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TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY
SCOTL AN D
COMPRISING THE
SEVERAL COUNTIES, ISLANDS, CITIES, BURGH AND MARKET TOWNS,
PARISHES, AND PRINCIPAL VILLAGES,
WITH
HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL DESCRIPTIONS
EMBELLISHED WITH
A LARGE MAP OF SCOTLAND,
AND
ENGRAVINGS OF THE SEALS AND ARMS OF THE DIFFERENT BURGHS AND UNIVERSITIES.
BY SAMUEL LEWIS.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
From ABBEY to JURA.
LONDON:
PUBLISHED BY S. LEWIS AND CO., 13, FINSBURY PLACE, SOUTH.
iM.DCCC.XLVI.
LON DON :
gilbert and rivington, printers,
st. john's sciuare.
PREFACE.
The Proprietors of the Topographical Dictionary of Scotland feel they shall stand
excused if they indulge in some expression of pride and satisfaction, on presenting their
Subscribers with the concluding portion of their great undertaking in illustration of
the Topography of the United Kingdom. Many years have now elapsed since they
tirst circulated proposals for publishing Dictionaries of England, Wales, Ireland, and
Scotland, in succession, in Ten Volumes. Those years, they flatter themselves, have not
been ill spent in endeavouring to make the Volumes more exact and comprehensive than
they could possibly have been made in a shorter period ; and the Proprietors of this almost
National Publication can truly say, that they have spared no pains, and held back from
no expense, calculated to render their labours worthy of the favour of their Sub-
scribers. Whilst they have disbursed a fortune in the preparation of the several portions
of the Work, they have borne in mind that they were engaged in no ordinary object of
pecuniary investment.
So much has been said in the Prefaces to the former parts of the Work, that it is unne-
cessary to dwell here upon the plan laid down for its compilation. In Scotland, as in the
other divisions of the United Kingdom, the aim has been, to procure as much original
matter as possible ; to correct the statements of books and manuscripts in public libraries
by local examination and enquiry ; and to bring the account of each place up to the present
time. And as in the Prefaces to the Dictionaries of England and Wales, the Proprietors
a 2
iv PREFACE.
had to acknowledge the courtesy which their representatives had experienced in South
Britain, so now they " beg to return their unfeigned thanks for the kind attention
uniformly manifested, and the valuable information liberally communicated, to their
agents," while in North Britain. To the assistance of the resident Nobility, Gentry, and
Clergy, and of Persons holding official situations, must be ascribed much of the value of the
following pages ; and the Proprietors deem it a fortunate circumstance for them, that the
love of country which has ever peculiarly distinguished the Scottish Nation, induced the
intelligent inhabitants of its several localities to afford them such willing aid towards
rendering this epitome of Scotland complete and accurate. The same spirit that led
to the publication of the Old and New Statistical Accounts of Scotland, two Works whose
fame is European, has led to a favourable reception of the design of the Proprietors of
this Work.
But while they consider it superfluous again to explain fully the plan upon which the
Works on England, Wales, Ireland, and Scotland were alike compiled, they may
refer to one course, among others, which they adopted in preparing the two pre-
sent Volumes. This was, to address the following Letter to the Clergy, resident Landed
Proprietors, Literary Gentlemen, and others, a copy of it being sent to each parish in the
country : " Sir, We take the liberty of forwarding to you a list of Queries, intended as
the basis of our forthcoming Topographical Dictionary of Scotland, and shall be par-
ticularly obliged by your answers to them at your earliest convenience. We feel that in
soliciting this favour we are trespassing upon your valuable time ; yet, as our object is to
afford an accurate and faithful description of your highly interesting country, we trust that
you will pardon the obtrusion. We have the honour to be, &c. &c, S. Lewis and Co."
To this Letter was annexed the ensuing list of Queries, with a view to obtain infor-
mation on some of the subjects intended to be comprised in the Work : — 1, Name of
the parish ; in what county, and on what river or turnpike-road situated : — 2, Name of
the post-town, and the distance of the parish from it : — 3, Number of statute acres,
and whether by computation or admeasurement; the numbers or proportions of arable,
PREFACE. v
pasture, woodland, &c. : — i, The distinguishing features of the surface and scenery : —
5, The nature of the soil ; chief agricultural produce, and the principal geological
features of the parish : — 6, What gentlemen's seats of importance ; what villages, and the
chief employment of their inhabitants : — 7, What facilities afforded by railroad, navigable
river, or canal : — 8, What mines or quarries ; their respective produce ; and to what use
applied : — 9, What manufactories, mills, foundries, potteries, or ' other works ; and the
number of hands employed in each : — 10, What fairs ; when held, for what commodities,
and how attended: — 11, The name of the patron of the incumbency: — 12, The style of
architecture of the church or churches ; the date and cost of erection, and from what
funds defrayed ; and any description of the building or buildings : — 13, What places of
worship for Seceders, and their several denominations : — 14, Parochial and free schools ;
almshouses, or other charitable institutions ; how supported ; when and with what funds the
buildings were erected: — 15, Remains of religious houses; castles; when and by whom
founded ; present state of the edifice or ruins, and to whom belonging : — 1 6, Antiquities ;
camps, cromlechs, barrows, tumuli, Druidical remains, &c. : — 1 7, Natural curiosities, mine-
rals, fossils ; mineral springs ; if used for medicinal purposes, their peculiar properties : —
18, Names of eminent natives or residents of the place: — 19, What title the place con-
fers, and on what family.
Answers to these Queries were received from nearly every parish in Scotland, the com-
munications generally affording the fullest details upon the topics in question, and largely
contributing, from the immediate connexion of the Writers with the different localities, to
the accuracy of the Work. The Proprietors consider it as not a little remarkable, that out
of the great number of Circulars issued, a very few only were unanswered, and some of
those few, they venture to believe, merely on account of the temporary absence of the Gen-
tlemen addressed.
The facilities afforded by the present system of Postage also enabled the Proprietors to
send Printed Proofs of the Articles on the parishes and other important places, to all parts
of Scotland, accompanied by the following Letter : — " Sir, Being engaged in preparing for
vi PREFACE.
publication a Topographical Dictionary of Scotland, and desirous to render the descrip-
tions of the various places comprised in it as accurate as possible, we take the liberty of
forwarding for your perusal the accompanying rough Proof, and shall esteem it a particular
favour if you will kindly correct any error you may detect, and return the paper by an early
post, as the Press is kept standing at very considerable inconvenience. In the hope that
you will pardon this obtrusion, we have the honour, &c. &c, S. Lewis and Co." Thus
nearly every page of the Work was forwarded to the spot to which it related, during the
passage of the sheets through the Press ; and of the entire number of Articles, as many
as twelve-thirteenths were duly returned, with, in some cases, very important emendations.
To Ministers of parishes and the Town-Clerks of almost all the burghs, especially, the
Proprietors' thanks are due for the promptitude with which the Proofs submitted to
their perusal were revised. All responsibility, however, connected with the Dictionary
of Scotland, it is scarcely necessary to state, rests with the Editors ; for, while they have
endeavoured in every possible way, consistently with the plan of the Book, to meet the
views of those who favoured them with information, or with corrections of the Proofs, they
have, of course, often been compelled to use their own discretion, and have not lost sight
of the fact, that it is to Publishers that readers look as the accountable parties.
For the Seals and Arms that embellish the Work, the Proprietors are chiefly in-
debted to the Town-Clerks of the several Burghs, who obliged them with the wax impres-
sions from which most of the engravings have been executed. Their best acknowledgments
are also due to the Principals of King's College Aberdeen, of Marischal College Aberdeen,
and of Glasgow College ; the Reverend the Librarian of the University of Edinburgh ; and
the Reverend C. J. Lyon, M.A., of St. Andrew's, Author of the valuable History of that
city ; for copies of the Official Seals of the five great Universities of Scotland, and for
other favours.
It may be well to remind the Reader, that the statements of Acres refer to the
Imperial standard measure, unless otherwise expressed. The amounts of the parochial
Ministers' stipends are the average of several years, and are derived from a Parliamen-
PREFACE. vii
tary Return, generally, however, corrected by local information ; the rateable annual value
of each parish is inserted also on the authority of a Parliamentary Paper, compiled for the
purposes of the Income tax.
•
It is likewise proper to observe that the Work, as denoted in the Title-page, simply
comprises separate Articles upon the Islands, Counties, Cities, Towns, Parishes, and Principal
Villages ; the rivers, mountains, lakes, seats, and such objects, being (unlike the manner of
a general Gazetteer) described under the heads of parishes, &c. Thus, Abbotsford, the seat
of Sir Walter Scott, is noticed in the article on Melrose. The arrangement of the places
is strictly Alphabetical, each being given under its proper name, and the epithet, if any,
by which it is distinguished from another locality of the same designation, following after
the chief heading. In this way, all such terms as St., East, West, North, and South, Great
and Little, Old and New, will be found to come after the real names ; as Andrew's, St. ;
Berwick, North; Cumnock, Old; Monkland, New.
At the end of the First Volume will be found a copious Index of the Places described
in the Work, whether under their own heads or incidentally. At the end of the Second
Volume is placed a large Map of Scotland, in Six Divisions, on a scale of five miles to an
inch, which has been prepared by the Proprietors at a great expense, although their pro-
posals contained no promise of such an addition to the Work. Before the execution
of this Map, it had been suggested by a few of their Subscribers that maps of each county,
of the size of the Work, would form a valuable accompaniment ; but the Proprietors soon
found that it would be extremely injudicious to bring such widely-extended districts as
Inverness and Argyll, with their irregular boundaries, into the same space as the small,
compact shires of Kinross, Linlithgow, and Renfrew. The Reader would probably have been
misled if one Plate should present a scale of fifteen miles to an inch, while the scale of
another was but three ; and no uniform plan could have been laid down as to what places
should be inserted, and what excluded. Prefixed to the Map of Scotland is a Table
showing the Contents of each of its Divisions.
viii PREFACE.
In conclusion, the Proprietors have to request the kind indulgence of the Subscribers
with regard to any errors they may occasionally detect. No Topographical work can be
wholly free from errors. To complain that inaccuracies have crept into a Compilation of
this nature, would be only to say, in other words, that the hand of time may be stayed,
that the fugitive and varying circumstances of a country can be always the same, and that
perfection is attainable by man. The Proprietors have used every means to ensure cor-
rectness, and they trust that any slight faults the Work contains will be leniently re-
garded.
TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY
OF
SCOTLAND,
A B B O
ABBEY-GREEN, a considerable village, in the parish
of Lesmahago, Upper ward of the county of Lanark,
6 miles (S. W.) from Lanark; containing, with Turf-
holm, 881 inhabitants. This village, formerly called
Macute's-Green, derives its present name from its vici-
nity to the ruins of an ancient monastery dependent on
the abbey of Kelso. It is pleasantly seated in a valley
on the west bank of the Nethan. a fine stream tributary
to the Clyde, and is in the centre of the parish, and
contains the parochial church. The inhabitants are
employed in various trades requisite for the supply of
the neighbourhood, and in hand-loom weaving for the
manufacturers of Glasgow and Paisley.
ABBEY PARISH, Renfrewshire.— See Paisley.
ABBEY ST. BATHAN'S. — See Bathan's, St.
ABBOTSHALL, a parish, in the district of Kirk-
caldy, county of Fife ; containing, with Linktown and
Newtown, and the village of Chapel, 4811 inhabitants,
of whom 4100 are in the town of Abbotshall. This
place derived its name from its having been the resi-
dence of the abbots of Dunfermline, one of whom erected
a mansion here, the site of which is still pointed out by
a yew-tree of very ancient growth. The lands, which,
about the middle of the fifteenth century, belonged to the
abbey of Dunfermline, are supposed, after the Dissolu-
tion of monasteries, to have been granted to the bailies
and corporation of the town of Kirkcaldy, and by them
transferred to the family of the Scotts of Balweary,
from whom they passed into the possession of the Ram-
says of this place, and were purchased by the ancestors
of the present proprietor. The greater portion of the
lands formerly in Kirkcaldy, was, in the year 1650,
separated from that parish, and, together with the lands
of Easter and Wester Touch, formerly in the parish of
Kinghorn, and those of Wester Bogie, in the parish of
Dysart, erected into a separate and distinct parish,
under the appellation of Abbotshall. The parish is
situated on the Frith of Forth, by which it is bounded
o Vol. I. — 1
A B B O
*
on the south-east, and comprises 3166 Scotch acres, of
which 2631 are under tillage, and about 500 in natural
wood and plantations ; the surface along the coast is
level, but the ground rises in a gentle slope, towards
the middle of the parish, and thence is pleasingly undu-
lated. A small stream issuing from the Camilla loch,
in the parish of Auchtertool, on the west, flows through
the lower lands into the river Tiel, near its influx into
the sea. The soil is mostly fertile ; towards the coast,
it is light, but productive ; on the rising grounds, more
inland, it is a deep rich loam, and in other parts varies
considerably in quality. The crops are, wheat, barley,
oats, potatoes, and turnips, with peas, beans, and other
green crops ; the system of husbandry is in a highly
improved state, and the farm-buildings, and the inclo-
sures and fences, are kept in excellent repair. Few
sheep are fed, except on the lands belonging to the
principal seats, and these are generally of the Cheviot
breed ; there are a few black-cattle reared, chiefly of
the Fifeshire, and a mixture of the Fife, Angus, and
other breeds. The plantations, which are mainly on
the estate of Raith, consist of oak, ash, elm, chesnut,
sycamore, beech, spruce, and Scotch firs, with some
larch, with the exception of which last all thrive well,
and attain to a majestic growth. The substratum is
generally carboniferous limestone, and coal interspersed
with trap ; the limestone is quarried for manure and
other uses, and there are extensive lime-works in the
village of Chapel, but the coal, from the immediate vici-
nity of long-established mines, from which an abundant
supply is obtained at a moderate price, has not been
worked for many years. Fossils of various kinds are
found imbedded in the limestone ; and there are some
quarries of freestone in the parish, which is used for
building purposes.
The chief seat is Raith : the mansion-house was
partly built in 1694, by Lord Raith, who erected the
central portion, to which two capacious wings were
B
ABBO
A B D I
added by the late Mr. Ferguson ; and the present pro-
prietor has completed the building by the erection of a
beautiful portico of the Ionic order, rendering the whole
one of the most spacious and elegant mansions in the
country. The demesne is very extensive, and richly
planted ; and the pleasure-grounds are ornamented by
a picturesque lake, surrounded with fine walks, varied
with parterres of flowering shrubs and thriving planta-
tions. This lake, which covers more than twenty acres,
was formed in 1812; it is in some parts twenty-five feet
in depth, and abounds with fish of various kinds, and is
frequented by numerous aquatic birds ; it is situated at
the base of the eminence on which the mansion is built,
and adds greatly to the beauty of the scenery. Within
a short distance of the house, and nearly on the summit
of a hill, is a lofty tower, from which is obtained, on
a clear day, a view over fifteen counties ; in front of
the house is a remarkably fine beech-tree, measuring
fourteen feet in girth, and among the plantations are
numerous specimens of stately and venerable timber.
Wester Bogie, another residence, is a handsome castel-
lated mansion of modern erection, situated in a demesne
of no great extent, but laid out in fine taste and embel-
lished with flourishing plantations. The chief manu-
facture is the weaving of ticking, which is carried on to
a very considerable extent, employing nearly 500 looms ;
the weaving of dowlas has also been introduced, both
for the home trade and for exportation. There is a fac-
tory worked by steam, for manufacturing a thin kind
of linen-sheeting, another for canvass for making sails,
and also a bleachfield. The parish contains several
mills for barley-meal and flour, all which, together with
one for grinding flint, are driven by water ; a pottery for
brown earthenware is carried on by the proprietor of
the flint-mill, and there is likewise a large establish-
ment for the making of bricks and tiles, for which pur-
pose clay of good quality is found in the neighbourhood.
Coal-gas works have been established for lighting the
towns of Linktown and Newtown; a brewery is also
conducted, but the only produce is small beer. Fairs
are held in Linktown on the third Friday in April and
October, which were great marts for the sale of linseed
and black-cattle, but both have for some time been de-
clining, and the principal articles exposed for sale are
shoes, which are brought from a distance, and articles
of pedlery.
The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Kirkcaldy and
synod of Fife ; patron, R. Ferguson, Esq. The stipend
of the incumbent is £199. 11. 11.; the manse was re-
built in 1772, and has been recently enlarged, and the
glebe comprises 65 acres of good land, valued at £36
per annum. The present church, which occupies the
site of the ancient edifice, was built in 1788, and is
adapted for a congregation of 825 persons. An addi-
tional church, in connexion with the Establishment, has
just been erected for the accommodation of the surplus
population of this and the adjoining parish of King-
horn ; and there are places of worship for members of the
Free Church and United Associate Synod. The parochial
school affords a liberal education ; the master has a
salary of £34. 4. 5., with £35 school fees, and £25 from
other sources. There is also a free school endowed by
Robert Philip, Esq., who bequeathed property to the
amount of £80,000, for the foundation and endowment
2
of schools in Abbotshall, Kirkcaldy, Dysart, and King-
horn ; the number of children attending the school in
this parish is 100, who are all clothed, and supplied
with books and stationery, and, on leaving the school,
receive a sum of money to enable them to learn some
trade. Near the site of the tower in the demesne of
Raith, have been found coffins of stone, rudely formed,
and urns containing human bones. There are still some
remains of the ancient castle of Balweary, consisting
chiefly of the eastern wall, which is entire, and part of
the north and south walls ; they are more than six feet
in thickness, and appear to have inclosed an area of
about thirty feet. It was the birthplace of Sir Michael
Scott, who, from his eminence in the science of mathe-
matics, and in general literature, was regarded as a
prodigy ; on his return to his native land, after many
years spent in the universities of the continent, he was
appointed, on the death of Alexander III., to bring home
the young queen from Norway. William Adam, the
architect, was also a native of the parish. The place
has given title to many distinguished persons, among
whom were, Thomas Scott and Andrew Ramsay, Lords
Abbotshall ; and George Melville, Earl of Raith. — See
Linktown, and Newtown.
ABDIE, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county
of Fife, 2^ miles (S. S. E.) from Newburgh ; including
the villages of Lindores and Grange of Lindores, and
the suburb of Mount- Pleasant ; and containing 1508
inhabitants. This place formed part of the lands of
Macduff, Thane of Fife ; it continued in the possession
of his descendants for many ages, and afterwards, toge-
ther with the earldom, passed to the family of Mordac,
Duke of Albany, on whose attainder and decapitation at
Stirling, in the reign of James I., his estates in Fife, and
other property, reverted to the crown. The lands of
Denmill, which included the greater portion of this
parish, were granted by James II. to James Balfour, son
of Sir John Balfour, of Balgarvie, one of whose de-
scendants was killed in the battle of Flodden Field, to
which he attended his sovereign James IV. ; and another,
Sir James Balfour, of Denmill, was appointed lyon king-
at-arms to Charles I. and II., kings of England. There
are still remaining vestiges of the ancient castle of Lin-
dores, in the village of that name, said to have been the
residence of Duncan Macduff, first thane of Fife ; near
which, according to the annals drawn up by Sir James
Balfour, a sanguinary battle took place in the year 1300,
between the Scots, headed by Sir William Wallace, and
the English, when the latter were defeated, with the loss
of 3000 slain on the field, and 500 taken prisoners.
The parish, anciently called Lindores, was formerly
of much greater extent than at present, including the
lands of the parish of Newburgh, which was separated
from it in 1633. Its surface is very uneven, rising in
some parts into hills of considerable elevation, of which
the highest are the Norman's Law and the Clatchard
Crag ; the former, which is 936 feet above the sea, com-
mands an extensive prospect, combining much interest-
ing scenery, especially towards the north, embracing
the Carse of Gowrie, with its richly cultivated surface,
and the Frith of Tay, and lands in its vicinity, which
are richly planted. The Clatchard Crag, situated to the
south-east of Newburgh, is a tall and stately cliff,
abruptly rising to an elevation of 250 feet above the
level of the plain, and towering with rugged majesty
ABDI
ABER
above the road, which passes near its base. The prin-
cipal river is the Tay, which bounds the parish on the
north and east ; and a powerful stream issues from
the loch of Lindores, in the parish, and, in its course,
gives motion to several large mills. The loch of Lin-
dores is a beautiful sheet of water, covering nearly 70
acres of ground, and is in many places almost 20 feet in
depth ; it is supplied by a copious stream that rises in a
tract of moss about half a mile distant, called the Priest's
burn, which in the winter is never frozen, and in the
driest summers is always abundant. The lake abounds
with perch, pike, and eels, and is much frequented by
ducks, teals, and snipes. The number of acres in the
parish is nearly 7000, of which 4580 are arable, about
1530 in pasture, 300 under wood, and the remainder
waste land, of which, probably, nearly 200 acres might
be brought into cultivation. The soil is extremely vari-
ous ; along the banks of the Tay, in the lower part of
the parish, it is remarkably fertile ; on the slopes, it is a
black loam of great depth, and in other parts light and
gravelly. The acclivities of the hills are partly covered
with heath, but in many places afford good pasturage for
sheep, of which considerable numbers, chiefly of a
mixed breed, are reared in the parish, and sold in the
neighbouring markets ; great numbers of sheep of dif-
ferent kinds are also fed here upon turnips, and shipped
to London, by steamers from Leith and Dundee. The
chief crops are, barley, oats, wheat, potatoes, and tur-
nips, which, from the improved system of agriculture,
and the draining and reclaiming of waste lands, have
been greatly increased in value ; and large quantities of
grain and potatoes are annually exported. There are
likewise several dairy farms, producing butter and cheese
of good quality. The substratum is generally whin-
stone, of which there are quarries in full operation; it
is much valued for building and other purposes, and
was formerly exported to a great extent. A kind of
red sandstone is also prevalent, and was once quar-
ried ; and limestone is found, but, from the distance
of coal, every attempt to work it for manure has been
given up.
The principal seat is Inchrye House, a castellated
building in the early English style, crowned with battle-
ments, and embellished with turrets, erected at an ex-
pense of £12,000, and seen with peculiar effect from the
road leading to Newburgh ; it is surrounded with thriv-
ing woods and ornamental plantations, and the grounds
are laid out with great taste. The House of Lindores,
the residence of Admiral Maitland, who commanded the
Bellerophon when Napoleon Buonaparte surrendered
himself prisoner, is pleasantly situated upon an emi-
nence, embracing much varied and interesting scenery
overlooking the loch of Lindores ; and there are various
other handsome residences, finely seated, and adding to
the beauty of the landscape. The weaving of linen is
carried on in the parish, affording employment to a con-
siderable number of persons who work with hand-looms
in their own dwellings ; there are corn and barley mills
in full and increasing operation, a saw-mill for timber,
on a very extensive scale, and a mill for grinding bones
for manure. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Cupar and synod
of Fife ; the Earl of Mansfield is patron, and the stipend
of the incumbent is £233, with a manse, and glebe com-
prising 4 acres of arable, and 6 of pasture, land, valued
at £23 per annum. The church, a plain substantial
edifice, was erected in 1827, and is adapted for nearly
600 persons. The parochial school affords a liberal
course of instruction ; the master has a salary of
£34. 4. 4., with £17 from school fees, and a good house
and garden. There are some remains of the ancient
church, in the porch of which is still the basin for the
consecrated water ; and, till lately, the steps that
formed the ascent to the altar were also entire. Urns
containing human bones and ashes have been found in
several parts of the parish; and one containing a skull
and several bones, was recently dug up near the foot of
Clatchard Crag, which was inclosed in loose flat stones
placed together in the form of a kistvaen. A similar
urn was found near the site of the ancient abbey of
Lindores, containing a great number of small bones.
On the summit of Clatchard Crag, are the vestiges of
an ancient fort; and near the top of Norman's Law,
are three concentric circles, of rough stones rudely
formed, which is supposed to have been a Danish en-
campment.
ABERCHIRDER, a village, in the parish of Mar-
noch, county of Banff, 7 miles (W. by N.) from Tur-
riff; containing 819 inhabitants. The whole parish was
formerly called by the name of this place, derived from
Sir David Aberkerder, Thane of Aberkerder, who lived
about the year 1400, and possessed great property here.
The village consists of three streets, regularly laid out,
parallel to each other, with a square in the centre, in
addition to which, several good substantial houses have
been recently built. It contains a branch of the North
of Scotland bank, a stamp-office, and a post-office ; it is
crossed by the turnpike-road between Banff and Huntly,
and that between Turriff and Portsoy also passes through
it. There is an Episcopalian chapel.
ABERBROTHOCK.— See Arbroath.
ABERCORN, a parish, in the county of Linlith-
gow, 5| miles (E. by N.) from Linlithgow ; contain-
ing, with the villages of Newtown and Philipstown, 950
inhabitants. This place, which derives its name from
its situation at the influx of the small river Cornie into
the Frith of Forth, is of very remote origin ; and its
ancient castle occupied the site of a Roman station
between the wall of Antonine and the port of Cramond
on the Frith, in the harbour of which the Romans
moored their ships. A monastery appears to have been
founded here at a very early period by the Culdees,
which, in the seventh century, became the seat of a
bishopric ; but, after the death of Egfrid, King of
Northumbria, who, in 696, was killed in a battle with
the northern Picts, the bishop who then presided over
the see, not thinking the establishment, sufficiently
secure, removed it to a place less exposed to danger.
Of the monastery, which is supposed to have occupied
a site near the present parish church, there are not the
slightest vestiges remaining ; and its only memorial is
preserved in the names Priestinch, Priest's Folly, and
others, by which several lands in the parish that most
probably appertained to it, are still distinguished. The
castle, and the lands belonging to it, in the 12th century,
were the property of the Avenale family, from whom
they passed, by marriage, to the Grahams ; and in
1298 they were held by Sir John Graham, the friend
and firm adherent of Sir William Wallace, under whose
banner, fighting for the independence of his country,
B 2
A B E R
A B E R
against Edward I. of England, he fell in the battle of
Falkirk. The estate subsequently became the property
of the Douglas family, and on the rebellion of the Earl
of Douglas, the castle, which was one of the strongholds
of his party, was besieged by James II., and taken by
storm on the 8th of April, 1455, when the earl's re-
tainers were put to death, and the fortifications demo-
lished ; the castle eventually became a complete ruin,
and every vestige of it has long since disappeared. The
lands were afterwards granted by the crown to Claude
Hamilton, third son of the Earl of Arran, and the first
Viscount Paisley, by whose devoted attachment to the
fortunes of Mary, Queen of Scots, they became forfeited ;
but they were subsequently restored by James VI. to
his son, whom, in 1606, that monarch created Earl of
Abercorn. From this family, the estate passed succes-
sively to the Muirs, Lindsays, and Setons ; and in 16/8,
the lands, which had been greatly diminished in extent,
but to which was still attached the sheriffdom of the
county, were sold by Sir Walter Seton to Sir John
Hope, ancestor of the earls of Hopetoun.
The parish is situated on the south shore of the
Frith of Forth, and comprises about 4500 imperial acres,
of which 3700 are arable, meadow, and pasture, 67O
woodland and plantations, and the remainder roads and
waste. The surface is pleasingly undulated, rising only
in two points into hills of any considerable eminence, of
which the highest, Binns, has an elevation of about 350
feet, and Priestinch of nearly 100 feet. The former of
these, at the western extremity of the parish, rising gra-
dually from the shore of the Frith, is arable to the very
summit, and commands an interesting and extensive
view ; and the latter, on the south border of the parish,
is a precipitous rock of trapstone, of elliptical form, on
the flat summit of which are some remains of an ancient
fortification. The shore, for about four miles, is beauti-
fully diversified with bays, headlands, and undulating
banks, enriched with plantations to the water's edge,
and occasionally interspersed with verdant patches of
sloping meadow-land. The only rivers are, the Nether-
mill burn, and the Cornie, a still smaller stream, which,
uniting near the church, flow into the Frith ; and the
Blackness and Linnmill burns, of which the former
separates the parish from that of Carriden, and the latter
from the parish of Dalmeny. The soil is chiefly a clayey
loam, producing grain of all kinds of good quality, with
potatoes and turnips ; the pastures are rich, and the
meadows yield abundant crops of hay. Considerable
attention has been paid to the rearing of cattle, in which
much benefit has been effected by the introduction of the
Teeswater breed ; and all the recent improvements in
husbandry, and in the construction of agricultural im-
plements, have been generally adopted. The plantations,
which are extensive, and carefully managed by regular
thinning and pruning, consist mostly of beech, elm, oak,
sycamore, lime, and chesnut, with larch, Scotch, silver,
and spruce firs, of all of which many beautiful specimens
are found. There are quarries of valuable freestone in
various parts of the parish, which have been wrought
for many generations, varying in colour from a light
cream to a dark grey; and in the hill of Priestinch is a
quarry of trap, which affords excellent materials for the
roads. Limestone is also abundant, and of very pure
quality, better adapted for agricultural purposes than
for building ■ it occurs in beds of ten feet in thickness,
generally at a depth varying from 15 to 25 feet below
the surface. There is likewise a small mine of coal near
Priestinch, of moderate quality, in working which about
twenty persons are employed.
Hopetoun House, the seat of the Earl of Hopetoun,
originally commenced after a design by Sir William
Bruce, in 1696, and completed under the superintend-
ence of Mr. Adam, is a spacious and handsome man-
sion, consisting of a centre connected by colonnades of
graceful curvature, with boldly projecting wings, ter-
minating in octagonal turrets crowned with domes.
Being seated on a splendid terrace overlooking the Frith,
it forms a truly magnificent feature as seen from the
water. The interior contains numerous stately apart-
ments, decorated with costly splendour ; the library
contains an extensive and well assorted collection of
scarce and valuable books and manuscripts, with nume-
rous illuminated missals aud other conventual antiqui-
ties, and the picture gallery is rich in fine specimens of
the ancient masters of the Flemish and Italian schools.
The grounds are tastefully laid out, embellished with
plantations, and the walks along the heights overlooking
the Frith, command diversified prospects ; the eastern
approach to the mansion is through a level esplanade,
and the western under a stately avenue of ancient elms.
His Majesty George IV. visited the Earl of Hopetoun at
this seat, on the day of his return from Scotland, in
1822, and, after partaking of the earl's hospitality,
embarked at Port-Edgar, for London. Binns House is
an ancient castellated mansion, beautifully situated on
the western slope of the hill of that name, and sur-
rounded with a park containing much picturesque and
romantic scenery ; the grounds are pleasingly embel-
lished with plantations, interspersed with lawns and
walks, and on the summit of the hill is a lofty circular
tower forming a conspicuous landmark. Duddingston
House is a modern mansion in the castellated style, situ-
ated on an eminence in the south-east of the parish, and
commanding an extensive view. Midhope House, for-
merly a seat of the earls of Linlithgow, is an ancient
mansion still in tolerable preservation, and now occupied
in tenements, to which an old staircase of massive oak
affords access ; the building consists of a square em-
battled tower with angular turrets, and above the en-
trance is a coronet, with the letters J. L.
The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in agricultural
pursuits, and in the quarries and mines ; and about
thirty persons are employed in a salmon fishery at the
mouth of the Linnmill burn, where several stake-nets are
placed. The quantity of fish taken was formerly very
considerable, but is, within the last few years, very
much diminished ; the lessee of the fishery pays a rent
of £60 per annum, and the whole produce is estimated
at about £200. Facility of communication is afforded
by the turnpike-road from Queensferry to Linlithgow ;
the Union canal intersects the southern portion of the
parish, and the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, which
in some parts of its course pursues a direction parallel
with the canal, frequently approaches within a few yards
of it. At Society, in the parish, is a small bay, where
some vessels with coal land their cargoes on the beach,
and occasionally take back lime ; there are two corn-
mills propelled by water, and a saw-mill has lately been
built by the Earl of Hopetoun, on the Nethermill burn.
The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish are under the
ABER
ABEIl
superintendence of the presbytery of Linlithgow and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister's sti-
pend is £188. 15. 2., with a manse, and the glebe is va-
lued at £16 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Hopetoun.
The church, a very ancient building, was enlarged at
the time of the Reformation ; it is an irregular building,
previously affording very indifferent accommodation,
but in 1838 was thoroughly repaired. There is a place
of worship for members of the Free Church. The pa-
rochial school is well conducted ; the master has a salary
of £34. 4. 4., with a house and garden, and the fees
average about £40 per annum. A parochial library was
established in 1833, but was superseded in 1844 by a
parish church library, which now contains upwards of
300 volumes.
ABERCROMBIE, or St. Monan's, a parish, in the
district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 2 miles (W.
by S.) from Pittenweem ; containing 1157 inhabitants,
of whom 1029 are in the town of St. Monan's. This
place, which appears to have been a distinct parish since
the middle of the 12th century, is in ancient documents
invariably called Abercrombie, or Abercrumbin ; but,
towards the close of the year 1647, on the annexation
of the barony of St. Monan's, previously in the adjoin-
ing parish of Kilconquhar, it obtained the latter appella-
tion, by which, till within the last thirty years, it was
generally designated. The parish is bounded on the
south by the Frith of Forth, and is about a mile and
a half in length, from north to south, and a mile in
breadth, from east to west ; the surface rises abruptly
from the coast to the higher lands, which are agreeably
undulated, and the general appearance of the parish is
enriched and varied with thriving plantations. A small
rivulet called the Inweary, rising in the marshy lands of
Kilconquhar, intersects the parish, and, after a course of
nearly two miles, falls into the Frith near the church ;
and in the north-east, the burn of Dree], after traversing
that portion of the parish, falls also into the river Forth
at Anstruther Wester. The soil is mostly a light and
friable loam, partly intermixed with clay, and generally
very fertile; the system of agriculture is in an improved
state, and the crops are oats, barley, wheat, beans, pota-
toes, and turnips. There is comparatively little land in
pasture. The substratum is chiefly sandstone and lime-
stone, with some till, of which the rocks on the coast
principally consist; ironstone is found in great abun-
dance on the beach, and coal in various parts of the
parish. In the barony of St. Monan's are not less than
six seams of coal, of different thickness, varying from
one foot and a half to eighteen feet, which were formerly
worked to the depth of nearly thirty fathoms; but,
from want of capital, they have been for some time dis-
continued. There are also several seams in the lands
of Abercrombie, which have never been wrought. The
limestone is of excellent quality ; but the depth from
the surface rendered the working of it unprofitable, and
since the coal-works have been discontinued, the quar-
ries have been altogether abandoned ; the want of it is,
however, supplied by the great quantities of sea-weed
thrown upon the shore, which is carefully collected for
manure. The ironstone is chiefly obtained in nodules
of from one to two pounds in weight ; it is found to
contain from twelve to eighteen hundred weight in the
ton, and considerable quantities are sent away as ballast
by shipmasters. Freestone is also found.
5
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintend-
ence of the presbytery of St. Andrew's and synod of
Fife; patron, the Crown. The stipend of the incum-
bent amounts to £162. 0. 11., of which about a fifth is
received from the exchequer ; the manse was rebuilt in
1796, and enlarged in 1819, and the glebe comprises
nearly 10 Scottish acres of good land. The church,
formerly the chapel of St. Monan, is said to have been
originally founded by David II., about the year 1370,
and by him dedicated to St. Monan, the tutelar saint of
the place, in gratitude for the deliverance of his queen
and himself from shipwreck on this part of the coast ;
it is a beautiful specimen of the English style prevailing
at that period, and is a cruciform structure, with a square
tower rising from the centre, surmounted by an octa-
gonal spire. The nave had become a complete ruin, and
had been altogether removed ; the transepts were roof-
less and dilapidated, and the choir, the only portion,
except the tower, which remained entire, was for many
years used as the parish church; but in 1828, the build-
ing was restored, with the exception of the nave ; the
walls of the transepts were raised to a height equal to
that of the choir, and the whole now forms one of the
most beautiful edifices in the country, adapted for a
congregation of 530 persons. The parochial school is
under good regulation ; the master has a salary of
£34. 4. 5., and fees £34, with a house and garden.
At the north-east end of the parish, near the lands of
Balcaskie, are remains of the ancient church of Aber-
crombie, which, after the annexation of the barony of
St. Monan's, was abandoned as a place of worship; they
are situated in a secluded and romantic spot, formerly the
churchyard, and still the burying-place of the Anstruther
family, and of others. There are also some remains of
the old mansion-house of Newark, the ancient residence
of the family of the Sandilands, lords of the barony,
consisting of three stories; the northern part is still in
tolerable repair, but the other portion is roofless and
much dilapidated. The ground-floor contains several
apartments with vaulted roofs, and the upper stories
had, till lately, some comfortable rooms occupied by
servants belonging to the farm. The building is so near
a lofty rock rising precipitously from the sea-shore, that
there is scarcely room for a person to pass between the
cliff and the southern gable. Lieut.-General Sir David
Leslie, son of Lord Lindores, resided at Newark, which
he had purchased from the Sandiland family, and was
created Lord Newark in the reign of Charles II. ; he
distinguished himself greatly in the civil wars, and was
interred at this place. — See Monan's, St.
ABERDALGIE and DUPPLIN, a parish, in the
county of Perth, 3 miles (S. W.) from Perth ; contain-
ing 360 inhabitants. These two ancient parishes were
united in the year 1618, and are beautifully situated on
an eminence forming the northern boundary of the vale
of Strathearn ; they measure about 3 miles in length,
from east to west, and 2| miles in breadth, and comprise
2900 acres, of which more than 2000 are under tillage,
and the remainder wood and waste. The river Earn
flows on the south, and, with its picturesque windings
through the strath, and its banks, ornamented with
gentlemen's seats, good farm-houses, and well-cultivated
lands, forms a principal feature in the interesting sce-
nery of the locality. In the direction of the river, the
prospect is terminated by the Ochil hills ; and towards
ABER
A B E R
the north, where the higher lands of the parish gradu-
ally slope, appear the vales of the Almond, the Tay, and
Strathmore, the richly diversified views being bounded
by the Grampian mountains. The parish consists of
six large farms and three of smaller extent, which are
under the best system of husbandry, and produce in
the northern district, where the climate is sharp and
the soil cold and tilly, oats, barley, peas, and beans ;
in the southern portion wheat is much cultivated, the
greater warmth of the sun and the rich loamy and
clayey soil favouring its growth. Among the many
improvements in agriculture, wedge-draining has been
of great service on wet cold grounds, and is extensively
practised ; and the introduction of turnip husbandry,
and the increase in the growth of potatoes, have
proved highly beneficial. The prevailing rock is the
old red sandstone, of which there are several quarries.
Dupplin Castle, the seat of the Earl of Kinnoull,
the sole heritor, was accidentally burnt on the 11th
of Sept., 1827, and a new edifice was erected on the
same site, and completed about the year 1832, in the
Elizabethan style, by the present earl, at a cost of up-
wards of £30,000. The wood on the property is exceed-
ingly beautiful, extending to some hundreds of acres,
and comprising sweet and horse chesnuts, beech, spruce,
and Scotch fir, some of which are of large bulk and
stature. The castle was visited by Her Majesty, during
her tour in Scotland, on the 6th of Sept., 1842; she
arrived here at two o'clock, and, after partaking of a
sumptuous dejeuner, received a deputation from the city
of Perth, consisting of the lord provost, magistrates,
and other authorities, who presented a loyal address.
The old road from Perth to Stirling passes through the
northern declivity of the parish, and a new line was
finished in 1811, running along the plain below, for the
commencement of which the Earl of Kinnoull advanced
£3000. On the sides, many excellent farm-houses have
been built, and it has proved of great advantage to the
locality for the conveyance of lime and other manures,
as well as for the export of general produce, consist-
ing chiefly of grain and potatoes, sent to Perth aud
Newburgh. The parish is in the presbytery of Perth
and synod of Perth and Stirling, and in the alternate
patronage of the Crown and the Earl of Kinnoull ; the
minister's stipend is £157. 19- 4., with a manse, and a
glebe of 14 acres, including the site of the manse,
garden, &c. The present church of Aberdalgie was
built in 1773, and under it a vault was constructed for
the Hay-Drummond family, though their ancient burial-
place is at the church of Kinnoull : in the churchyard is
the cemetery of the lords Oliphant, of Bachilton, for
centuries the feudal lords of Aberdalgie, and on the
outside is a large stone with a well-executed figure of
a warrior. The foundations of the old church of Dup-
plin are still remaining, within an inclosed churchyard.
The parochial school affords instruction in the ordinary
branches ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with a
house, and £14 fees. The Earl of Kinnoull takes the
title of Viscount Dupplin from this place.
ABERDARGIE, a village, in that part of the parish
of Abernethy which is in the county of Perth, 1 mile
(W.) of Abernethy ; containing 200 inhabitants. It
is pleasantly situated, and the road from Kinghorn to
Perth passes through it : a part of the inhabitants, both
male and female, are engaged in weaving linen-yarn.
6
SEAL AND ARMS.
Obverse.
Reverse.
ABERDEEN, a city, and sea-port town, the seat of a
university, the capital of the county of Aberdeen, and
the metropolis of the North of Scotland, 109 miles
(N. N. E.) from Edinburgh, and 425 (N. by W.) from
London ; containing, with parts of the parishes of Old
Aberdeen and Banchory-Devenick, 67-000 inhabitants.
This ancient city, which is, by some historians, identified
with the Devana of Ptolemy, is supposed to have derived
its name, of British origin, from its situation between the
rivers Dee and Don, near their influx into the sea, and
from each of which, previously to the diversion of the
latter into its present channel, it was nearly equidistant.
According to tradition, Gregory the Great, King of Scot-
land, is said to have made the town a royal burgh ; but
little of its authentic history is known prior to the reign
of Malcolm III. ; and the first traces of its having attained
any importance, are found in a charter granted at Perth,
by William the Lion, conferring on the inhabitants the
privilege of free trade, as fully as their ancestors had en-
joyed that liberty in the time of Malcolm ; and the same
monarch, by a second charter, dated 28th of Aug., 1179,
granted them exemption from tolls and customs in all
markets and fairs within his kingdom. About this time,
Esteyn, one of the Norwegian kings, in a piratical ex-
cursion along the British coast, landed at this place, and
plundered the town, which had attained sufficient im-
portance to attract the notice of the sovereign, who
erected for his occasional residence, when visiting here,
an edifice near the east end of the present Green,
which he afterwards bestowed on the monks of the
Holy Trinity, who had recently been introduced into
Scotland. William also established an exchequer and a
mint, near the south end of the modern Castle-street,
where money was coined during his reign. Alexander
11. on various occasions made protracted visits to the
town ; and about the year 1222, in company with
his sister, the Princess Isabella, he celebrated the fes-
tival of Christmas here ; and subsequently built, on
the site now occupied by Gordon's Hospital, a convent
for Dominican or Black friars. This monarch, by a
charter to the burgesses, confirmed all the privileges
bestowed by his predecessors, to which he added the
grant of a weekly market, and the right of establishing
a merchant guild. In 1244, the town was nearly de-
stroyed by an accidental fire, which burnt many of the
houses, at that time built chiefly of wood ; and about
the year 1260, it suffered materially from a similar
calamity. Alexander III., by charter dated at Kintore,
in 1274, granted to the burgesses the privilege of an
annual fair, to continue for fourteen days ; the town,
however, had made but little progress in commerce,
ABER
ABER
though, as a sea-port, it had obtained a l'eputation for
the curing of fish, of which its rivers and the sea
afforded ample supplies for the use of the inhabitants,
and also for exportation.
The town, after it had recovered from the devastation
it had suffered from fire, was defended by a strong
castle, and by gates at the entrances of the principal
streets ; and the inhabitants, who in every time of
danger were distinguished by their undaunted courage
in resisting the attacks of its enemies, in all cases of
assault were headed by their chief magistrate, who
invariably acted as their captain. In the wars which,
after the death of Alexander III., arose from the dis-
puted succession to the throne, the city had its full
share of vicissitude and of the troubles of that distracted
period. Edward, King of England, to whom the arbi-
tration of that contest had been referred, though he
appointed John Baliol to the Scottish throne, yet con-
sidered himself entitled to the sovereignty, and, avail-
ing himself of the internal hostilities which prevailed,
invaded Scotland with a powerful army, and made him-
self master of the southern portion of the kingdom :
having dethroned Baliol, he advanced with his forces to
Aberdeen, and, taking possession of the castle, placed
in it an English garrison, which held the town and
neighbourhood in subjection. On the approach of
William Wallace to the relief of the citizens, the En-
glish, having reinforced the garrison, plundered and set
fire to the town, and embarked on board their ships.
Wallace, after besieging the castle without success,
retreated to Angus, and, having sustained various
reverses, was betrayed into the hands of Edward,
and conveyed prisoner to London, where he suffered
death as a traitor ; and his body being quartered,
one of his mangled quarters was exposed on the gate of
the castle of the town, to intimidate his followers in
this part of the country. Robert Bruce, in asserting
his right to the Scottish throne, experienced many pri-
vations, and was reduced to the necessity of taking
refuge, with his wife and children, among the mountains
of Aberdeenshire ; but, having mustered a considerable
force, which was augmented by the citizens of Aberdeen,
who embraced his cause, he gave the English battle
near the hill of Barra, over whom, under the command
of Comyn, Earl of Buchan, and Mowbray, the English
leader, he obtained a victory. According to Boece, the
citizens, flushed with this success, returned to the town,
assaulted the castle, which they took by storm, and
put the garrison to the sword ; and, to prevent its
falling again into the hands of the enemy, they de-
molished the fortifications. The English in the vicinity
assembled their forces, and assaulted the city ; but the
townsmen, led on by Fraser, their provost, repulsed
them with considerable slaughter. In reward of their
patriotism and valour on this occasion, the king granted
the city new armorial-bearings, with the motto Bon
Accord, their watchword on that memorable occasion ;
and after the battle of Bannockburn, being firmly
seated on the throne, he gave the citizens several
charters, some ample donations of lands, and the
forest of Stocket, with all the privileges attached to it,
reserving to himself only the growing timber, with the
right of hunting; and in 1319, honoured the town with
a visit. After the death of Robert Bruce, and during
the minority of his son David, a civil war broke out in
the country ; and Edward III. of England, who, with
the exception of Aberdeen, had all the Scottish fortresses
in his possession, invaded the kingdom, to assert his
right to the sovereignty. While triumphant in the
southern districts of the kingdom, Sir Thomas Roscelyn,
one of his knights, landed a body of forces at Dunnottar,
with which he advanced to Aberdeen ; the citizens,
taking arms, met the invaders on the Green, but were
defeated with considerable loss, though Roscelyn fell in
the encounter, and the town was given up to plunder,
and set on fire by the English. David II., who during
these troubles had remained in France, returned with
his queen, and having regained his kingdom, held his
first parliament in Aberdeen, which he occasionally
made his residence ; he confirmed to the citizens all the
grants which his father had conferred, and gave them
every assistance in rebuilding their town, which thence
took the appellation of New Aberdeen, though of much
greater antiquity than the kirktown of Seaton, since that
period called Old Aberdeen.
After the expulsion of the English from Scotland,
Aberdeen began to flourish as a place of commerce, and
was represented in parliament. In a parliament held at
Edinburgh, in 1357, to concert measures for the ransom
of the Scottish king, who since the battle of Neville's
Cross had been detained prisoner in England, the
city ranked as the fourth in the kingdom, and became
joint guarantee for the payment of the stipulated sum.
The king, on his return to Scotland, took up his residence
in the town, which he frequently afterwards visited,
and which, in a subsequent parliament, appeared as the
first city on the roll, after Edinburgh. Robert II., the
first of the race of the Stuarts, assembled a parliament
in the town, in order to plan a hostile incursion into
England, and granted various privileges to the city,
which was at that time the residence of several branches
of the royal family, among whom were, the Princess
Matilda, sister of King David, and Christian, sister of
King Robert Bruce. The trade of the port had now
become considerable, and consisted chiefly in wool,
hides, tallow, coarse woollen-cloths, cured salmon and
other fish, which were exported to England, France,
Holland, Flanders, and Hamburgh, whence were im-
ported linen, fine woollen-cloth, wines, oil, salt, soap,
dye-stuffs, spices, hardware, iron, armour of various
kinds, malt, wheat, and numerous other articles. Du-
ring the regency of the Duke of Albany, in the time of
Robert III., Donald, Lord of the Isles, having entered
into an alliance with England, asserted a claim to the
earldom of Ross, and raised an army of 10,000 men,
to obtain forcible possession of that territory ; on which
occasion the citizens of Aberdeen, headed by Sir Ro-
bert Davidson, their provost, joined the forces under
tlfe Earl of Mar, which had been raised to oppose him ;
and encountering the army of Donald at Harlaw, about
eighteen miles to the north of the city, a sanguinary battle
took place, in which Sir Robert and many of the citizens
were killed. The conflict terminated with the day,
neither party claiming the victory, but in the course of
the night the highlanders retreated to the mountains ;
the provost was buried in the church of St. Nicholas,
near the altar of St. Ann, which his father had founded :
the standard borne by the citizens on the occasion
was long preserved in the armoury of the town. On
the release of King James, son of Robert III., who had
A B E R
ABER
been kept as a prisoner in England during the regency,
Aberdeen was one of the four cities which became bound
to pay the English monarch £40,000, for his mainte-
nance and education while in captivity. After the mur-
der of James, in the year 1437, the citizens chose for
their provost, Sir Alexander Irvine, of Drum, whom
they invested with the title of captain and governor of
the city ; and in the anarchy which prevailed during
the minority of James II., they fortified the town,
armed the inhabitants, and enforced the strictest mili-
tary discipline. In 144S, James II. made his first visit
to the city, and was received with every demonstration
of loyalty and respect ; and in 1455, the same marks of
attention were paid his queen.
Upon the death of James III., at the battle of Sau-
chie-Burn, in 1488, an attempt was made to rescue the
young prince from the power of a faction that had led
him into rebellion against his father, James III. ; in
which attempt the citizens concurred, attaching the
common seal of the corporation to their resolutions to
that effect. About the same time, Sir Andrew Wood,
admiral of Scotland, endeavoured to deprive them of
the lands of Stocket granted to them by King Robert
Bruce ; but, on appeal to the sovereign, their possession
was confirmed by a decree of James IV., in 1497- This
monarch frequently visited the city, and, on one occa-
sion, remained here for a considerable time, while
making arrangements for the establishment of a univer-
sity, for which purpose he obtained from Pope Alex-
ander a bull dated the 6th of February, 1494. Under
an apprehension of invasion from England, in conse-
quence of the countenance afforded to Perkin Warbeck,
in the reign of Henry VII., by the Scottish monarch,
the citizens fortified the town, erected a blockhouse near
the mouth of the river, and threw up a breastwork as an
additional defence ; but a treaty for peace rendered
these preparations unnecessary ; and on the subsequent
marriage of James IV. with the Princess Margaret,
daughter of the English monarch, the council sent a
deputation of the citizens, attended by a band of min-
strels, to congratulate their sovereign. In 1511, the queen
visited Aberdeen, where she was received with acclama-
tions of joy; and during her stay the chief streets of
the city were hung with tapestry and fancifully adorned.
The inhabitants, in 1513, contributed a company of spear-
men, and a squadron of horse, towards the expedition
of Flodden Field, in which the king, and many of the
Scottish nobility, were killed; and in 1525, Alexander
Seton, of Meldrum, in resentment of a supposed affront
to his clan, entered the city at night, with a large party
of his followers, and a battle ensued, in which eighty of
the citizens, including several of the magistrates, were
slain. In 1530, Lord Forbes, of Castle-Forbes, who
had been in the habit of receiving annually a tun of
wine, for preserving the fisheries of the Dee and Don,
provoked by the discontinuance of this present, in con-
sequence of a quarrel between his sons and the citizens,
entered the city with a numerous retinue, and a fierce
conflict arose, which terminated in his complete defeat :
on his giving security, however, for the future good
conduct of his partizans, the magistrates renewed their
accustomed present. In 1540, James V., after the
melancholy loss of his two sons in one day, visited
the city, attended by his queen and court, to divert
his grief, and remained for fourteen days ; and the
8
citizens fitted out a ship of war, to join the royal
squadron in the Frith of Forth, to convoy the king to
England, on a visit to Henry VIII. On the invasion of
Scotland by the Duke of Somerset, in 1547, the citizens
furnished a large supply of men, to join the queen's
forces under the Earl of Arran, of whom very few re-
turned from the fatal battle of Pinkie; and in 1552,
the earl, who had been appointed regent during the
minority of Mary, attended by the queen dowager,
visited the town, and was hospitably entertained by the
citizens.
On the introduction of the reformed religion, the
citizens were little disposed to receive it, and, at the
solicitation of Gavin Dunbar, Bishop of Aberdeen, in
1525, a manifesto was issued by the king, directing the
magistrates of Aberdeen to enquire into the conduct of
those who maintained heretical opinions ; but it was
not till 1544, that any attention was paid to that injunc-
tion, when two of the citizens were committed to prison,
by the Earl of Huntly, then provost of the city, till they
should be brought to trial. In 1559, on the approach
of a body of Reformers called the Congregation, the
magistrates took the precaution of removing from the
church of St. Nicholas the sacred vessels, and ornaments,
with every thing of value, which they deposited, with
the archives of the town, in a place of security. On the
29th of December, in that year, a large party of Re-
formers from Angus and Mearns entered the city, re-
solved upon the destruction of the sacred edifices, and
commenced an attack on the spire of the church, which
they attempted to pull down. But the citizens, flying
to arms, arrested the work of demolition, and it was
not till the 4th of January following, that the Reform-
ers ventured to renew their efforts, when they pro-
ceeded to the monastery of the Black friars, in School-
hill, and the convent of the Carmelites, on the Green ;
and, having demolished those buildings and carried off
the property, they advanced to the monastery of the
Grey friars, in Broad-street, stripped the church of its
leaden roof, and were about to demolish the building,
when the citizens again interposed and prevented further
injury. The citizens, notwithstanding, ultimately em-
braced the reformed religion, and in a meeting of the
Council, it was resolved to demolish the monasteries, to
convert the materials to the public use, and to sell the
silver, brass, and other ornaments, which had been re-
moved from the church of St. Nicholas, and place the
proceeds in the common fund of the city. It was re-
solved, also, to furnish forty men for the service of the
Congregation, and to use all their efforts for the sup-
pression of idolatry ; and Adam Heriot, friar of the
order of St. Augustine, and a brother of the abbey of
St. Andrew, having renounced the errors of popery,
was appointed by the General Assembly minister of
Aberdeen, which office he held till his death. In 1562,
Mary, Queen of Scots, in her progress through the
north, visited Aberdeen, where she was hospitably en-
tertained, and during her stay was waited upon by Lady
Huntly, who, interceding for her son, Sir John Gordon,
obtained his pardon, on condition of his confinement in
Stirling Castle, during her majesty's pleasure. On his
way to that fortress, however, he escaped from his
guards, and, returning to the north, appeared with a
body of 1000 horse, and was soon after joined by his
father, the Earl of Huntly. The queen's army, under
A B E R
A B E R
the command of the Earl of Murray, having come from
Inverness to Aberdeen, marched against the forces of the
Earl of Huntly and his son, over whom they gained a
complete victory j the earl was killed, and his two sons,
Sir John and Adam Gordon, with many others, were
brought prisoners to Aberdeen, where the former, two
days after the battle, was beheaded in Castle-street.
In 1581, James VI. paid a visit to Aberdeen, on
which occasion the citizens presented him with 3000
merks in gold, and in 1589, that monarch, attended by
his court, remained in Aberdeen for some time, during
which butts for the practice of archery were erected on
Castle-hill, for their amusement : and in the same year,
the citizens fitted out a ship of war, to join the squadron
intended to convoy the king and queen, on their return
from Denmark. In 1592, the king again visited the
city ; and, though welcomed by the usual presents, he
took a bond from the magistrates that they would not
confederate with the Earl of Huntly, nor join with
Jesuits, priests, or rebels, and that they woidd faith-
full}' observe the true doctrines of the reformed religion.
On the defeat of the royal forces in Banffshire, in 1594,
the king repaired to Aberdeen, where, raising a body of
troops, he was joined by Lord Forbes and other barons,
against the popish Lords Errol, Angus, Huntly, and
others; and in 1600, the inhabitants celebrated the
escape of their sovereign from the conspiracy of the
Earl of Ruthven, by a public procession, and presented
an address, composed in Latin by the rector of the
grammar school, expressing their abhorrence of the
attempt on his life. In 1617, after his accession to the
throne of England, James VI. visited his native country,
on which occasion the magistrates of the city received
intimation that he would visit that city, in his progress
through the north ; but their expectations were not
fulfilled. In 1620, Sir Thomas Menzies, provost of the
city, was sent on a mission to the court of London, and
on his introduction, presented to the king a valuable
pearl which, it is said, has a place in the imperial crown
of Great Britain. The city sent a deputation to express
to Charles I., on his landing in Scotland, a testimonial
of their affectionate loyalty; at this time, the solemn
league and covenant, which had obtained almost uni-
versal subscription, found but little support in Aber-
deen, and the citizens, firmly attached to their sovereign,
acquiesced in all his endeavours to establish episcopacy.
In 1638, the Earl of Montrose, the Lords Coupar,
Forbes, and others, with the ministers of Irvine and
Pitsligo, appeared in the town, as commissioners from
the general assembly, and called upon the citizens to
subscribe the covenant. Failing in their object, they
took their departure, and the assembly held a court at
Glasgow, at which they ordered the covenant to be sub-
scribed, on pain of excommunication, which order was
generally obeyed, and the whole country became subject
to the Covenanters, with the exception of Aberdeen,
which, under the influence of the Marquess of Huntly, a
zealous adherent of the reigning monarch, still held out.
The citizens, in this state of affairs, placed the town in
a posture of defence ; the provost, and sixteen of the
principal citizens, formed a council of war; a vessel
laden with arms and warlike stores, arrived in the har-
bour from England, and every preparation was made to
resist an attack. The Earl of Montrose, at the head ot
an army of Covenanters, made his appearance in the
Vol. I.— 9
neighbourhood, and advanced to the town with a force
of 9000 horse and foot, which he encamped in the links
of Aberdeen ; the Earl of Kinghorn, who had been ap-
pointed governor of the town, had only a garrison of
1800 for its defence. After some time, the Earl of
Montrose withdrew his army to Inverury ; but, again
encamping in the links, the citizens ultimately sub-
scribed the covenant, and four of them were appointed
by Montrose, as commissioners to the general assembly
at Edinburgh. During the progress of the civil war,
the town suffered materially from all parties, as they
became successively predominant, and was exposed to
continual vicissitudes. The last battle that occurred
here, was in 1646, in which year Major Middleton,
arriving in the town, took the command of the Cove-
nanters' army, against the Marquess of Huntly and
the Earl of Aboyne, when it fell an easy conquest to the
marquess, who was, however, soon after seized by the
Covenanters, and sent, with many others, to Edinburgh,
where he was put to death. Charles II., on his return
from the continent, was received in Aberdeen with
every feeling of attachment ; the keys were delivered to
him by the provost, and he remained in the town for
more than a week. On his restoration in 1660, the
citizens testified their joy by a public procession, and
sent a deputation to Loudon, to present a congratulatory
address.
In 166S, the city raised a corps of 120 men, in aug-
mentation of the militia, and on the subsequent accession
of James II. and William III., the inhabitants duly tes-
tified their loyalty. The accession of Queen Anne,
daughter of James II., was proclaimed here with public
rejoicings; and on the union of the two kingdoms, in
1707. Aberdeen, in conjunction with the burghs of
Arbroath, Montrose, Brechin, and Bervie, sent a mem-
ber to the united parliament. Soon after the accession
of George I., the Earl of Mar, a zealous adherent of the
exiled family, assembled some forces at Braemar, in the
highland districts of Aberdeenshire, and proclaimed the
Chevalier de St. George, son of James II., sovereign of
Britain, by the title of James VIII. , and levied an army
of 10,000 men for his support. The magistrates of
Aberdeen, who were zealously attached to the reigning
family, put the city into a state of defence ; but the
partizans of the pretender, having gained an ascendancy,
assumed the civil government, and the earl-marischal,
arriving soon after w7ith a squadron of horse, proclaimed
the pretender at the Cross, on the day for the election
of the city officers. The magistrates and council ab-
sented themselves, without making any election for the
ensuing year ; and on the day following, the earl
marischal, in the East church, chose such of the bur-
gesses as were favourable to his cause, and formed an
administration for the government of the city. The earl
levied an imposition of £200, for the use of the preten-
der's army, and £2000 as a loan, which, with other
supplies, were sent to his head-quarters at Perth. The
pretender soon afterwards arriving, with a retinue of
six gentlemen, from France, landed at Peterhead, and
passed incognito through Aberdeen to Fetteresso, on his
way to Perth, where he was received by the Earl of Mar
and the earl-marischal ; and the professors of Maris-
chal and King's Colleges waited upon him at Fetteresso,
with an address of congratulation. The royal army,
however, under the Duke of Argyll, was every day in-
C
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A B E R
creasing in numbers, while that of the pretender was
rapidly diminishing, and was eventually dispersed ;
the administration of the city returned into its proper
channel, and the election of the magistrates, which had
been interrupted by this rash adventure, was made as
usual. In 1716, a fire broke out at the Gallowgate,
which rapidly extended itself to other parts of the town ;
many houses were destroyed, and the council made a
liberal contribution for the relief of the sufferers. This
calamity was soon after followed by apprehensions of a
famine, from a continued state of unfavourable weather ;
to counteract this evil, the magistrates and council,
with the neighbouring gentry, supplied the town with
4000 bolls of meal, and imported a considerable quan-
tity of grain from Holland. In 1741, a fire broke out in
Broad-street which destroyed many houses, at that
time chiefly built of wood ; and an act of council was
soon afterwards passed, enjoining that the outer walls of
all houses should be in future built of stone, and the
city consequently began to assume a more regular and
handsome appearance.
On the landing of Charles Edward, eldest son of the
pretender, in 1745, the citizens firmly maintained their
allegiance to the reigning family, and General Cope
embarked his forces at this place, previously to the
battle of Prestonpans. Hamilton, an exceedingly zea-
lous partizan of the adventurer, marched to Aberdeen,
with a detachment of the rebel army, on the day of election
of the town magistrates, and proclaimed Prince Charles
regent of the kingdom ; he compelled the magistrates
to attend him, and liberated the prisoners in the gaol.
In November, Lord Lewis Gordon, who had been ap-
pointed by the pretender, lord lieutenant of the coun-
ties of Aberdeen and Banff, made his appearance in the
city, summoned the magistrates to attend him at the
town-house, and completed the election which had been
suspended on the arrival of Hamilton ; he appointed
magistrates whom he thought likely to promote his
views, but they all refused to act ; and made his deputy
lieutenant-governor of the town. Soon afterwards,
Lord John Drummond arrived in the city, as com-
mander-in-chief of the forces of his Most Christian
Majesty, and published a manifesto at the market-cross,
calling on the citizens for their support ; but it received
little attention. In the mean time, the Earl of Loudon,
commander-in-chief of the royal forces, having assem-
bled an army of Highlanders, consisting of the clans of
the M'Leods, Monroes, Sutherlands, and others, ad-
vanced to Aberdeen, to deliver the city from the posses-
sion of the rebels ; but Gordon, who had gone out to in-
tercept them, meeting with some success, returned to
Aberdeen with several prisoners, among whom was the
principal of Marischal College, and levied a contribution
of £1000 for the maintenance of the rebel army. On
the 8th of February, 1746, a party of the rebels, flying
from before the army under the Duke of Cumberland,
arrived in the city, but were soon followed by the whole
of the royal forces, who were cantoned in the town, in
Old Aberdeen, and in the neighbouring villages ; and on
the 27th, the duke, with his entire staff, and a com-
pany of dragoons, made his appearance here, and was
congratulated by the provost and magistrates on his
success. The army remained in their quarters till the
beginning of April, and upon their departure, the city
was protected by a garrison, and the newly-erected
10
buildings of Gordon Hospital were occupied as a tempo-
rary fort ; after the battle of Culloden, the magistrates
voted the freedom of the city to the Duke of Cumber-
land, which was presented to him in a box of gold. On
the anniversary of the accession of George I., some of
the officers of the army quartered in Aberdeen ordered
a general illumination, which not being so fully complied
with as they expected, orders were given to their soldiers
to break the windows of the houses of the inhabitants ;
on this occasion, the magistrates issued a warrant for
the apprehension of the officers who had given those
orders, and committed them to prison, till they gave
security for the reparation of the damage. The coro-
nation of George III. was celebrated here with great
rejoicings, and soon after the commencement of the
American war, the city raised a corps of 500 volunteers
for the defence of the town and port, and offered to pro-
vide a regiment for the service of government ; in 1781,
it fitted out three privateers, two of which were cut
out of the bay of Aberdeen, where they were riding at
anchor, by the notorious Captain Fall, under the guns of
the newly-erected battery. During the scarcity that
prevailed in XJS'i, the magistrates raised large sums of
money for the alleviation of the sufferings of the poor ;
and in cases of shipwreck, of which many melancholy
instances have occurred off this part of the coast, they
have always been remarkable for the liberality of their
contributions of relief. In 1S09, from the increase of
the trade and shipping of the port, it was found neces-
sary to extend and improve the harbour, which was
shortly proceeded with under the superintendence of
the late Mr. Telford, the eminent engineer ; and sub-
sequently, many changes have been made in the build-
ings and plan of the city. New streets have been
opened ; the public roads and approaches greatly im-
proved; several handsome public buildings have been
erected, and the whole being built of the beautiful spe-
cies of granite peculiar to this part of the country, the
city presents an appearance of splendour and magnifi-
cence almost unrivalled, and fully entitling it to the
appellation of the metropolis of the north.
The town, which, after its restoration from the de-
vastation it suffered during the wars with England, ob-
tained the appellation of New Aberdeen, is situated on
slightly elevated ground on the north bank of the river
Dee, near its influx into the sea, and about a mile and a
half from the mouth of the river Don ; it is bounded on
the south by the harbour, and on the east by the Castle-
hill. The more ancient part is built on a very unequal
surface, consisting of several hills of trifling elevation, of
which the Castle-hill, St. Katharine's-hill, School-hill,
Woolman-hill, and Port-hill, are the most prominent.
At the entrances from the suburbs into the principal
streets, were formerly gates, of which the chief were
Gallowgate, Justice-port, Futtie's-port, Trinity or Quay-
head-port, Netherkirkgate-port, and Upperkirkgate-
port, all of which have been removed in the various
improvements effected at different times. The present
town is rather more than a mile in length, from the
barracks on the east, to the extremity of Union-street
on the west, and about 1500 yards in breadth, from the
quays on the south, to Love-lane on the north. The
more modern part, by far the greater portion, consists of
spacious and well-formed streets, of which Union-street,
extending from the west end of Castle-street to the
A B ER
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western extremity of the town, is 70 feet wide, and is
carried over the Denburn rivulet, and the vale through
which it flows, by a magnificent bridge of granite. This
bridge consists of one spacious arch, 1 50 feet in span,
and 50 feet in height, crowned with a parapet and cor-
nice surmounted by an open balustrade, and having a
rise of 29 feet only from the spring of the arch, on the
west side of which is a dry arch, and on the east two
dry arches, to raise the street to a proper level. Two
streets, also, have been arched over for the line of
Union-street ; and under the arches, carriages highly
loaded can pass with ease. King-street, leading from
Castle-street towards the north, is a fine street, sixty
feet in width ; and St. Nicholas-street, branching from
Union-street to the north, is also a handsome and spa-
cious street. During the latter part of the last century,
a number of new streets were opened, of which the
principal are, Virginia-street, Tannery-street, North-
street, Marischal- street, Belmont, Queen, James, Car-
melite, George, and St. Andrew's streets ; and since the
commencement of the present century, the area of the
town has been at least doubled. The houses, built of
fine granite, with which the neighbourhood abounds,
have a splendid appearance; and the city generally, from
the style and character of its buildings, has a command-
ing aspect. The town was at first lighted with gas ex-
tracted from oil, by a company established in 1S24 ; but,
finding it an unprofitable undertaking, they afterwards
had recourse to coal-gas, in the production of which the
best parrot coal is used in the works, which are exten-
sive, and conveniently situated in the lower part of the
town ; and the streets are now brilliantly lighted with
gas, carefully purified, and conducted by cast-iron pipes,
of which the aggregate length exceeds 48 miles. The
inhabitants were originally supplied with water from
wells sunk in various parts of the town, and from a cis-
tern in Broad-street, containing more than 30,000 gal-
lons ; but the quantity being found inadequate to the
increasing population, works were constructed by com-
missioners for bringing a supply from the river Dee,
and steam-engines erected at the north end of the bridge
of Dee, to which the water is conveyed by a tunnel about
500 yards in length, into which it enters, not directly
from the river, but after passing through a filtering bed
of sand. The engines, of which there are two, of 30-horse
power each, can raise, in twenty-four hours, a supply of
1,100,000 gallons of water, thence forced into a cistern
at the west end of Union-place, which has an elevation
of forty feet above the level of the street, and 130 feet
above that of the engine, and from which the water is
distributed through the city by cast-iron pipes. The
management of the supply of water, and also of the light-
ing, watching, and cleansing of the streets, is vested in
the commissioners of police.
The approaches have been rendered commodious, and
much improved in appearance ; the great north road
from Stonehaven, the road from Charlestown on the
north side of the Dee, the road from Skene, and the
great roads from the north and north-west, all meet in
the centre of the town. The bridge over the Dee was pro-
jected in 148S, by Bishop Elphinstone, who, dying before
any considerable progress was made in its erection, left
a large sum of money for its completion, which was ap-
plied to that purpose by his successor, Bishop Dunbar,
who, on the opening of the bridge, in 1518, made over
11
to the magistrates and council ample funds for keeping
it in repair. It is a handsome structure of seven arches,
and had a chapel at the northern extremity, dedicated to
the Virgin Mary, which was destroyed at the Reforma-
tion, and at the other end a watch-tower, in which the
citizens mounted guard in times of danger. The greater
portion of the bridge was rebuilt in 1722, and about
four years ago it was nearly doubled in width, at an
expense of £7000 ; the whole charges at each period
were defrayed from the endowment left by the bishops,
and the funds are still unexhausted. Lower down the
river, where the banks are precipitously steep, an ele-
gant suspension-bridge has been constructed, at an
expense of £8000, raised by subscription, affording
facility of access to the city in that direction ; and
communicating with the city of Old Aberdeen, is an
interesting and truly picturesque bridge over the Don,
of one lofty arch, of which the particulars are detailed
in the article Old Aberdeen. In Castle-street, to the
west of the town-house, is the Cross, the pavement
round which was formerly used as an exchange, and
frequented by the merchants of the city. This struc-
ture, which was erected in 16S6, to replace the ancient
cross, is of hexagonal form, eighteen feet in height : the
faces, which are ten feet in breadth, are ornamented
with duplicated Ionic columns at the angles, sustaining
an entablature and cornice, surmounted by a parapet
and an open balustrade ; and from the centre of the
area, which is twenty-one feet in diameter, rises a lofty
Corinthian column, supporting a unicorn bearing a shield
with a lion rampant. The entrance was once by a door
in the north face, leading to a staircase forming an
ascent to the platform, from which all public proclama-
tions were read ; the entablature above each of the faces
is divided into two compartments, in the western and
eastern of which are respectively the arms of the town
and the royal arms of Scotland, and in the others busts
of the sovereigns from James I. of Scotland to James II.
of England. A few years ago the cross was taken down,
and rebuilt on a site farther to the east than the former ;
but the original structure was carefully preserved, ex-
cept that the masonry between the supporting columns
was removed, and the lower part of the fabric thus
thrown upon. The Barracks stand near the site of the
ancient chapel of St. Ninian, on the Castle-hill, which,
together with all the ground within the ramparts of the
castle, was given to government for that purpose, by the
magistrates and council of the city. They were erected
in 1/94, at an expense of nearly £18,000, and form a
handsome range of buildings, containing, exclusively of
the officers' apartments, accommodation for 600 men,
with guard-room, chapel, infirmary, and other requisites,
and an ample ground for parade.
There are several subscription libraries, of which the
principal are those of Messrs. Brown and Co., D.
Wyllie and Son, and W. Russel ; they contain collec-
tions amounting in the whole to about 60,000 volumes,
and the terms of subscription vary from 15 shillings
to £1. 11. 6. per annum. The Athenaeum, in Castle-
street, aud the Union Club News-rooms, in Union-
street, are well supported, and amply supplied with
journals and periodical publications. Card and dancing-
assemblies, which are maintained by subscription, are
held regularly every month, during the winter season,
in the spacious'rooms erected about twenty-five vears ago.
C 2
ABER
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The Theatre, situated on the west side of Marischal-
street, was built by subscription, in 1795, at an expense
of £3000 ; it is a handsome structure, capable of seat-
ing 600 spectators, and is opened occasionally by itine-
rant companies, to whom it is let by the subscribers.
A weekly concert was, for many years, conducted by a
proprietary of amateur and other subscribers, and a
hall was erected for its use, on the east side of Broad-
street, but the concerts have long been discontinued.
A society for the practice of archery also once existed,
under the designation of the " Bowmen of Mar;" but
in a short time it dwindled away. Races were formerly
celebrated here, under the patronage of the members
of the Northern Shooting Club, who, in 1790, voted a
piece of plate, of fifty guineas value, and the magis-
trates also gave a purse of thirty guineas ; but they
were soon discontinued. After an interval of twenty
years, however, an association of the gentry of the coun-
ties of Aberdeen, Banff, and Kincardine, was formed for
their revival ; and an excellent course was made on the
links of Aberdeen, where races took place annually in
October, until 1828, and continued for four days, under
the superintendence of a president and stewards, chosen
from the association. At one of the meetings, four
silver cups, value fifty guineas each ; a purse of sixty
guineas, by subscription of the ladies ; an open plate of
fifty guineas, by the corporation of the city; a silver cup,
value 100 guineas, by the members of parliament for the
counties ; and an open plate of fifty guineas, by the mem-
bers for the boroughs, were run for, and spiritedly con-
tested.
The Mechanics' Institution was commenced in 1824,
for the improvement and instruction of its members, by
the delivery of lectures, at a moderate expense, on che-
mistry, natural philosophy, and other branches of
science ; but, in a few years, it began to languish, and in
1830, it was found necessary to discontinue the lec-
tures. The library, however, which at that time con-
tained nearly 1100 volumes on practical science, induced
those of the subscribers who remained, to supply funds
for its preservation ; and in 1S35, the plan of the insti-
tution was remodelled by the establishment of classes,
upon moderate terms, in the various branches of science
and literature, since which it has continued to flourish.
The Society of Advocates was incorporated by royal char-
ter, in 1774, and in 1799 by a more extensive charter,
in which they are styled the " President and Society of
Advocates in Aberdeen," for the improvement of its
members in their profession, and for the establishment
of a fund for the relief of their widows, orphans, and
near relatives ; the widows receive an allowance of £40
per annum. The society have a valuable law library of
1 900 volumes, which is open to the use of all its mem-
bers ; and they have lately erected a spacious building
in Union-street, containing a handsome hall for holding
their meetings, a library, and other apartments. The
Medical Society was first instituted in 1789, by a small
number of young practitioners, for their mutual im-
provement ; they held their meetings in one of the class-
rooms of Marischal College, and subsequently in apart-
ments hired for that purpose, till, from the increase of
their numbers, and the acquisition of sufficient funds,
they erected the Medical Hall in King-street, which was
completed in 1820. It contains a hall for their public
meetings, a library of about 3000 volumes on medical
12
science, to which the members have free access, and a
museum, with class-rooms and other apartments. The
society consists of two classes of members, one of prac-
titioners resident in the city and neighbourhood, who
meet once in the month for mutual communication ; and
the other of students of medicine, who meet weekly for
the discussion of medical questions, and for attending
lectures on the various branches of the profession.
Baths were opened a century ago on the east side of
the Denburn vale, for which there was a commodious
bathing-house, with dressing-rooms and every requi-
site ; they were amply supplied with pure spring water,
and, previously to the establishment of those near the
sea, numerously attended. The beach on the sea-coast
is a fine level sand, affording every facility for bath-
ing, and is much frequented during the season, by
visiters from different parts of the country ; bathing
machines are in constant attendance, and on the shore
are warm salt-water baths fitted up with every accom-
modation. The environs of Aberdeen afford various
interesting walks and rides, through a district abound-
ing with romantic scenery. A Golf Club was originally
established in the vicinity, by a society of gentlemen, in
1780, and, after its dissolution in the course of a few
years, was revived in 1815, under the appellation of the
Aberdeen Golf Club ; it is under the direction of a com-
mittee, consisting of a captain, secretary, and four coun-
cillors, chosen annually at the general meeting. The
members are admitted by ballot, on payment of £1. ].,
and an annual subscription of five shillings ; and at the
annual meeting, which takes place in May, a gold medal
is awarded to the most successful player. A mineral
spring called the Spa well rises at the base of Woolman-
hill, near the site of the Infirmary, and was long cele-
brated for its efficacy in the cure of nephritic diseases ;
it appears to have been in repute from a remote period,
and was inclosed with a building ornamented with por-
traits of six of the Apostles. In 1516, it attracted the
notice of Mr. William Barclay, an eminent physician,
who analyzed the water, which he found to contain car-
bonate of iron and vitriol. The building having fallen
into dilapidation, was restored by George Jamieson, the
celebrated painter, but was afterwards destroyed by an
inundation of the Denburn rivulet, and the spring re-
mained concealed under the ruins of the building, till
1670, when it was discovered, and the present building
erected by Alexander Skene, of Newtyle, then bailie of
the town. It was again lost in 1751, and subsequently
discovered by Dr. James Gordon, and long afterwards
continued to flow with its accustomed freedom ; but,
from recent erections at the infirmary, in the imme-
diate neighbourhood, the water has a third time dis-
appeared.
The principal manufactures carried on in the town,
prior to 1745, were, plaidings, serge, coarse woollen-
stuffs, and knit stockings, of which last, great quantities
were sent to Holland and Germany ; and to such per-
fection were the stockings made here brought, that those
of the finest wool were sold at from two to five guineas
per pair. The manufacture of coarse woollen-cloth was
also introduced about this period, but, after languishing
for a time, was abandoned, towards the close of the
century. The Linen manufacture was originally intro-
duced in 1749, by a company from Edinburgh, for the
spinning of flax, the making of thread, and the weaving
ABER
ABER
and bleaching of cloth, all of which were soon brought
to a considerable degree of perfection. An extensive
mill for spinning flax was erected on the left bank of
the river Don, in 179S, and also works for bleaching
yarn and cloth ; another was soon after erected at Broad-
ford, near the town, of which the machinery was driven
by steam ; and there are now three extensive establish-
ments for the manufacture of linen, of every quality,
from the coarsest Osnaburghs to the finest shirting,
and for the making of thread of every degree of fineness.
The manufacture of sail-cloth is also carried on, and
likewise that of brown sheeting, of which large quanti-
ties are sent to the East Indies and America : tape is
woven to a large extent, by the Aberdeen Tape Com-
pany. The number of persons employed in the flax
manufacture is about 3000, of whom about one-half are
females. The Cotton manufacture was introduced in
1779, by Messrs. Gordon, Barron, and Company, who
established a spacious bleaching and printing field at
Woodside, where they also erected a large mill for
spinning cotton-yarn, and weaving by machinery put in
motion by the river Don ; another mill was soon after-
wards established by Messrs. Forbes, Low, and Com-
pany, on the south side of the Denburn rivulet, the
machinery of which is propelled by steam. There are
now four establishments in the cotton trade, producing
every variety of cotton goods, and in one of them, thread,
equal in quality and fineness to that of flax, is made in
large quantities, and of all colours ; the number of
persons employed in the trade is about 4000, of whom
a considerable number are females and children. The
Woollen manufacture was introduced in 1789, by Mr.
Charles Baird, who brought from England some card-
ing-engines and spinning-jennies, with other apparatus,
and erected a mill at Stoneywood, for the manufacture
of plaiding, serge, and the coarser woollen-cloths, by
the aid of machinery. Several other factories were
soon afterwards established, and the Messrs. Haddens,
who had been long engaged in the stocking trade,
created extensive works on the Green, in which they
employed the most improved machinery, propelled by
powerful steam-engines. The manufacture of carpets is
also carried on with success. The number of persons
employed in the woollen trade is about 2500.
The manufacture of Paper was first introduced in
17*0. at Peterculter, in the vicinity of Aberdeen, where
the business is still pursued ; and several mills were
subsequently established, of which the only one now
left is on the right bank of the river Don, for making
all the various kinds of paper, which, previously to the
establishment of these works, was imported from Hol-
land : the number of persons employed in the trade
is about 400. The manufacture of Combs, which had
been introduced in 178S, and carried onto a very mode-
rate extent, was, in 1S30, commenced upon a greatly en-
larged scale, by Messrs. Stewart, Rowell, and Company,
who first employed steam-power in the manufacture,
and introduced other improvements by which the articles
can now be produced almost at a sixth part of the
former cost. In this concern, about '250 persons are
employed, and the number of combs of all kinds made
is about 43,000 weekly. The Iron manufacture is also
very extensive; there are not less than eight foundries
at present in active operation, in which the largest cast-
ings, and the heaviest articles, are produced, and nume-
rous establishments are carried on for the manufacture
of machinery of all kinds, five of which are engaged in
the making of steam-engines. Iron boats are con-
structed in considerable numbers, and an iron vessel of
550 tons' burthen has lately been launched from the
docks ; there are also several establishments for the
manufacture of chains and chain-cables, and of boilers
for steam-engines. Above 1000 persons are generally
employed in the iron trade. There are several Rope
walks of large extent, for the supply of the shipping of
the port, and others on a smaller scale, for the making
of cord and twine for various uses, and to a great ex-
tent for the making of fishing-nets ; the number of
persons in these works is about 200. Some breweries are
conducted on an extensive plan, from which considera-
ble quantities of ale and porter are sent to London and
other places, where they find a ready market, and also
several upon a smaller scale, for the supply of the town
and neighbourhood. There are likewise tanneries in
operation here. The present extensive trade in Granite
appears to have originated with the Messrs. Adam,
architects, of London, who, having entered into a con-
tract for paving the metropolis, in 1764, commenced
some quarries in the rocks on the sea-coast, near the
lands of Torrie, and brought the stone, when prepared,
to London ; but, finding this mode of supply too ex-
pensive, they employed the Aberdeen masons to furnish
them with stone, and, in a short time, a very extensive
trade was established, not only in paving-stones, but in
large blocks of granite for public buildings and works of
great magnitude. Many of the largest blocks were sent
to Sheerness, for the construction of the docks at that
place, and to London, for the erection of bridges over
the Thames, and the foundation of the new houses of
parliament. The granite, which is extremely hard, and
of great beauty when polished, has lately been brought
into extensive use for chimney-pieces, vases, pedestals,
and other ornamental works, by the application of ma-
chinery to the purpose of polishing it, by which the ex-
pense is reduced to about one-third of that by hand
labour. The quantity of granite exported in 1S44, ex-
ceeded 27,400 tons.
The port carries on an extensive trade with Russia,
Sweden, Denmark, Poland, Prussia, Germany, Holland,
Spain, Portugal, and with the West Indies and America ;
the chief exports are, oatmeal, grain, butter, eggs, sal-
mon, porter and ale, cattle, sheep, pigs, linen, cotton
and woollen manufactured goods, and granite ; the
chief imports are, coal, lime, flax, cotton, hemp, wool,
iron, salt, timber, whalebone, 'wheat, and flour. The
number of vessels registered as belonging to the port,
in 1844, was 206, of the aggregate burthen of 38,000
tons. The tonnage of the several vessels which entered
the port in 1844, was 289,4S3, of which 257,703 be-
longed to Aberdeen, 27,540 to other British ports, and
4240 to foreign ports ; and the amount of duties paid at
the custom-house was £76,259. The harbour was, for
many years, an open basin, with an island in the centre
called the Inches, which separated the channel of the
river from the harbour, on the north side of it ; and the
only building was the Quay-head, which, having become
ruinous, was repaired in 14S4, and rebuilt in 1527, with
stone brought from Dundee. A pier was built in 1607,
which, in 1623, was extended from the quay-head towards
the fishing village of Futtie, by which means a consider-.
ABER
ABER
able portion of land was gained from the basin, and
which now forms part of the town. In 1755, the magis-
trates and council engaged Mr. John Smeaton, an emi-
nent engineer, to improve the harbour; and in 1/70, he
proposed a stone pier on the north side of the en-
trance, which, confining the stream of the river within
narrow limits, would remove a bank of sand accu-
mulated there. In 1773, an act of parliament was
obtained, and the improvements on Mr. Smeaton's
plan were carried into full operation, at a cost of
£18,000. This pier was 1200 feet in length, 20 feet
broad at the base, 12 on the summit, and 16 feet in
height at the western extremity, and gradually increased
towards the east where it was 36 feet broad at the base,
24 on the summit, and 30 feet high ; it was faced with
blocks of granite, many of which weighed more than
three tons each. The pier, however, by a deviation from
Mr. Smeaton's original plan, being erected too far to-
wards the north, a great swell was occasioned in the
harbour at high water, to remedy which, a breakwater
was projected from the west end of it, towards the chan-
nel of the river, with complete effect. The harbour was
further improved by Mr. Telford, who, in 1810, extended
the original pier 900 feet further towards the east,
where it terminated in a circular head, 60 feet in dia-
meter, which was destroyed by the sea in the following
winter, and rebuilt with a slope towards the sea. A
breakwater 800 feet in length was also erected, on the
south side, by which the harbour was protected from the
south-east storms, and the depth of water increased to
19 feet. Commodious wharfs were formed along the
harbour, on the south-west side of the village of
Futtie, and quays nearly 4000 feet in length have been
constructed : the Inches, also, are now connected with
the town by a swivel-bridge opposite the end of
Marischal-street. In 1843, an act of parliament was
obtained for converting a large part of the harbour into
a wet dock, and operations for that purpose are in pro-
gress. The custom-house situated on the Quay, is a
neat building purchased by government, and fitted up
for the purpose ; the establishment consists of a col-
lector, comptroller, land and tide surveyors, four land-
waiters, twenty-eight tide-waiters, six boatmen, and other
officers.
Ship building is carried on to a considerable extent ;
there are six building-yards, and a patent-slip has been
constructed in the harbour, at an expense of £3337 ; in
1838, the number of vessels built in these yards was
twenty-three, and their aggregate burthen 4058 tons.
Four steam-packets, of which the aggregate burthen is
1360 tons, and of SlO-horse power, have long continued
to ply to Leith, Inverness, Caithness, Orkney, and
Shetland. In 1827, a steam-packet of 550 tons, called
the Queen of Scotland, began to ply between Aberdeen
and London, since which, others have been added, which
sail weekly to London, and likewise one to Hull : these,
together with a vessel engaged in the London and In-
verness trade, belong to one company, whose steamers
are now five in number, of nearly 3900 tons' burthen,
and 1420-horse power. There are also steamers to
Dundee, and to Peterhead, during the summer. The
Salmon fishery has been carried on here from a very
i*emote period, and, from the abundance of the sup-
ply afforded by the rivers Dee and Don, is still con-
tinued, on an extensive scale, affording employment
14
to about 200 persons. The average number taken
in a season, is 20,000 salmon averaging ten pounds
each, and 40,000 grilse of about four pounds each, of
which by far the greater portion is packed in ice,
and sent to the London market. The Herring fishery,
which is of comparatively recent establishment, at pre-
sent employs about sixty boats, and, from the suc-
cess with which it is attended, has every prospect of
being considerably increased. The Whale fishery was
first introduced here in 1753, and for some time con-
tinued to prosper; in 1S20, there were fifteen vessels
employed in the trade, each having a crew of fifty men,
and in 1823, the quantity of oil brought home was 1S41
tons ; but from that time the trade began to decline,
and it is now nearly abandoned. The Aberdeen Canal,
from the harbour to the burgh of Inverury, was con-
structed by a company of £50 shareholders, who, in
1795, obtained an act of parliament, incorporating them
under the designation of the " Proprietors of the Aber-
deenshire Canal Navigation," and empowering them to
raise a capital of £20,000, which, by a subsequent act,
in 1801, was extended to £40,000. It was completed
at an expense of £43,895, and opened to the public in
1807. The whole line, from the quay at this place to
Port Elphinstone, on the river Don, at Inverury, is 18^
miles in length ; the width on the surface is 24 feet,
and the average depth 3f feet; it has 17 locks, 5 aque-
ducts, and 56 common bridges, and the highest summit
level is 163 feet above low water mark. The market,
which is amply supplied with corn, and with provisions
of all kinds, is on Friday, and on the preceding day for
meal ; the market for fish, with which the town is abun-
dantly supplied, is daily ; and fairs are held on the last
Wednesday in April, for linen ; on the last Thursday
and Friday in June, and the first Thursday and Friday
in July, for wool ; and on the last Wednesday in August,
for timber. The butchers' market, on the east side of
the town, was erected by the corporation, in 1S06, and
consists of two ranges, having in one 38 stalls 12 feet
square, with a pavement 4 feet broad in front, and in
the other 48 stalls, each 10 feet square; and within the
area are 15 slaughter-houses. Another market for but-
chers' meat was formed in 1816, in the Lochlands, on
the north side of the town, containing 42 stalls, 13 feet
long, and 12 feet wide, with a pavement in front 5 feet
broad, and covered with a roof supported on slender
cast-iron pillars. The fish market is held on the south
side of the Shiprow, and is well arranged and fitted up,
with a view to prevent the exposure of fish for sale in
Castle-street ; the meal, poultry, and fruit and vege-
table markets are situated on the west side of King-
street, and are amply supplied. In the fruit market,
great quantities of strawberries and gooseberries, the
produce of gardens in the neighbourhood of the town,
are exposed to sale, and frequently to the amount of
£1000 annually. On the 29th of September, 1S40, the
foundation stone was laid of a New Market, the prin-
cipal front of which is towards a street opened about
the same time between Union-street and the quay. The
structure is 318 feet in length, and 106 feet in breadth,
and is divided into two stories, the lower of which is
even with the old street called the Green, and the upper
has three spacious and elegant entrances from Market-
street. The hall, on the level of Market-street, extends
the whole length of the building; it is fifty feet in
A B E R
ABER
height and the same in breadth, and towards its west
end, near the top of the flight of steps leading to the
basement story, is a beautiful fountain of polished gra-
nite, the work of Messrs. Mc Donald and Leslie. The
roof of the hall is supported by fifty-eight pillars, and
between them and the outer walls are the galleries,
twenty-five feet broad, containing fifty-three shops and
160 yards of counter for dealers in small wares, besides
a space of fifty by twenty-eight feet at the east end,
occupied weekly as a grain market. In the hall, under
the galleries, are fifty-three shops, and in its area benches
upwards of 3/0 yards in extent for gardeners and pro-
vision sellers j the basement floor contains ninety shops,
and forty-three yards of tables for fishmongers. This
elegant building was designed by Mr. Archibald Simp-
son, a native of Aberdeen, and in every respect it does
the utmost credit to his acknowledged talents and good
taste.
The government of the city, under a succession of
charters, from the reign of William the Lion to that of
Charles I., who greatly extended the privileges conferred
by his predecessors, and which have been also con-
firmed by subsequent monarchs, is vested in a provost,
four bailies, and eight councillors, assisted by a trea-
surer, master of shore-works, master of kirk and bridge
works, master of the guild brethren's hospital, mas-
ter of mortifications, and a dean of guild. There
are seven incorporated trades, viz., the hammermen,
bakers, wrights and coopers, tailors, shoemakers,
weavers, and fieshers. The burgesses are entitled to
numerous privileges, among which are, freedom to
trade, and exemption from all tolls and customs on
goods brought into the town for their own use.
The corporation are patrons of the city churches, and
of the professorships of mathematics and divinity in
Marischal College, and have the presentation to thirty-
six bursaries in that establishment ; they are also pa-
trons of the grammar-school, and various other schools,
and of the charitable endowments in the city. The
burgesses are separated into two classes ; burgesses
of guild, who are entitled to trade in all branches of
merchandise, but not to exercise any craft ; and free-
men of the seven incorporated trades, who have the pri-
vilege of exercising their respective crafts. The fees
paid by strangers on becoming guild burgesses are £35,
and by the sons of burgesses, £12; the fees paid by
strangers on becoming trade burgesses are £11. 12. 2.,
and by sons of freemen, 10s. for the eldest, and £1. 10.
for the younger. The jurisdiction of the magistrates
extends over the whole of the city and royalty, and they
hold a bailie court every Saturday, for civil actions to
any amount, in which they are assisted by an assessor,
appointed for that purpose, who is generally an advo-
cate of Aberdeen. The sheriff, however, exercises a con-
current, jurisdiction with the magistrates, and since the
establishment of the sheriff's small-debt court, the civil
business of the bailie court has been very much dimi-
nished. The police establishment is considered to be
fully sufficient for all purposes connected with its insti-
tution, and is under the controul of commissioners
elected by the nine wards, into which the police dis-
trict was divided by the act of 1S29. The city was
formerly the head of a district, including the burghs
of Arbroath, Montrose, Brechin, and Bervie, in con-
junction with which it returned one member to the im-
15
perial parliament. At present, Aberdeen of itself sends
a representative to the house of commons ; and the
right of election, previously in the magistrates and
council, is, by the Reform act, vested in the resident
£10 householders. The annual value of real property
in the city assessed to the Income tax for the year end-
ing April, 1843, was £96,588 ; the amount for the parish
of Old Aberdeen was £67,192; and the total sum for
the county of Aberdeen was £603,968.
The Town House, built at various periods, is situated
on the north side of Castle-street, and has undergone
frequent alterations ; in 1750, the appearance of the
front was greatly improved. It has five spacious and
handsome windows, and above the roof is a tower, sur-
mounted by a spire 120 feet in height. The town-
hall is about 47 feet in length, and 29 feet wide, and
is embellished with an elegant mantel-piece of variegated
marble, executed in Holland, above which is a perspec-
tive view of the city, taken from the lands of Torrie ;
the walls are hung with a full-length portrait of Queen
Anne, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, and full-length portraits
of the Earl and Countess Findlater by Alexander; a
portrait of Provost James Hadden by Pickersgill, and
one of Provost James Blaikie by Phillips. The hall,
which is appropriated to the meetings of the magis-
trates and council, is, on public occasions, brilliantly
lighted by three elegant cut-glass chandeliers, suspended
from the ceiling, and by twelve sconces on the walls.
In the upper part of the building, on the west, is the
town armoury, in which are deposited 300 muskets, a
very ancient coat of mail, the staff of the banner
borne by the citizens at Harlaw, and the furniture of
the provost's charger, when he attended the coronation
of Charles I. at Edinburgh. The County Buildings, in
Union-street, erected in 1S20, at the joint expense of
the counties of Aberdeen and Banff, for festive meet-
ings, at a cost of £1 1,500, is a handsome structure of
finely-dressed granite, in the Grecian style of architec-
ture, with a stately portico of the Ionic order ; the
interior contains a spacious assembly-room, richly deco-
rated, card, tea, and supper rooms, and various other
apartments.
The Town Gaol, adjoining the town-house, has been
considerably enlarged ; above the entrance, is a strong
vaulted chamber, in which are deposited the records
and archives of the town, the church registers, and
other valuable documents. The City Bridewell was
erected at an expense of £12,000, on a site of two
Scotch acres on the confines of the town, and was opened
in 1809; it is a handsome structure in the castellated
style, surrounded with a wall fourteen feet in height.
The edifice contains five stories, of which part of the
uppermost is used as an hospital, and the interior is
divided, throughout its whole length, by a gallery, on one
side of which are dormitories, and on the other cells for
labour; the whole number of cells is 109, each 8 feet
long, and 7 feet wide. The building is warmed by-
steam, and lighted with gas ; and adjoining the rear, is
the governor's house, containing a committee-room for
the meeting of the magistrates, a chapel, and apart-
ments for a surgeon, in addition to the requisite accom-
modations for the governor, matron, and other officers
necessary for the performance of the various duties of
the establishment. The prisoners are employed in pro-
fitable labour.
A B E R
A B E R
TO
Seal and Arms.
The university of Maris-
chal College was founded
in 1593, under a charter of
James VI., by George Keith,
filth earl-marischal of Scot-
land, who endowed it with
the church, conventual build-
ings, and lands of the Fran-
ciscan monastery, which had
been presented to him for
that purpose, by the magis-
trates and council of the
city, and with the lands,
tenements, and other property of the Dominican and
Carmelite convents situated respectively on the School-
hill and the Green, and which had been demolished
at the Reformation. The original endowment was
augmented by a grant of £300 per annum, by
William III., payable out of the bishops' rents of
Aberdeen and Moray, and by a grant of £105 per
annum, by Queen Anne ; and it has since been in-
creased by royal grants, for the foundation of additional
professorships, and by donations and bequests from
various individuals, for the foundation of bursaries and
lectureships. The primary establishment consisted of a
principal, three regents in philosophy and languages,
six bursars, an oeconomus, and other officers ; but, as
at present constituted, the university consists of a chan-
cellor, generally a nobleman of high rank, who is
elected by the senatus academicus, and holds his office
for life ; a rector, elected periodically by the suppositi
of the university ; a dean of faculty, elected by the
senatus academicus and the senior minister of Aber-
deen ; and a principal, who is appointed by the crown.
There are thirteen professorships, of which the Greek,
civil and natural history, natural philosophy, and moral
philosophy and logic, were founded in 1593, at the ori-
ginal institution of the university ; and those of mathe-
matics, divinity, oriental languages, church history,
humanity, medicine, chemistry, anatomy, and surgery,
at subsequent periods. Of these professorships, that of
divinity, founded in 1615, by Mr. Patrick Copland, a
dissenting minister at Norton, in the county of North-
ampton, and that of mathematics, founded in 1613, by
Dr. Duncan Liddell, are in the patronage of the town
council; that of oriental languages, founded in 1723, by
the Rev. Gilbert Ramsay, rector of Christ Church,
Barbadoes, is in the patronage of his descendant, Sir A.
Ramsay, of Balmaine ; and all the others are in the
patronage of the crown. There are also lectureships on
practical religion, the evidences of Christianity, Scottish
law and conveyancing, botany, materia medica, insti-
tutes of medicine, midwifery, medical jurisprudence,
comparative anatomy, and agriculture ; the lectureship
on practical religion is in the patronage of the trustees
of Mr. Gordon, of Murtle ; on Scottish law and con-
veyancing, in the patronage of the Society of Advocates ;
on agriculture, in that of the magistrates of Aberdeen,
and all the others in the patronage of the college.
Attached to the university are likewise 115 bursaries,
varying in value from £5 to £30 each per annum,
tenable for four years, and of which more than 60 are
open to general competition, and 36 in the patronage of
the town council ; the average number of students is
about 400.
16
The university Libranj, now very extensive and valu-
able, consisted originally of the books belonging to
St. Nicholas' church, among which were several pre-
viously in the ancient monasteries, comprising the lives
of the fathers of the church, and some volumes of the
classics in manuscript. The collection has been greatly
increased by successive donations, of which the most
considerable was that of Mr. Thomas Reid, Latin secre-
tary to James VI., who, in the course of his travels, had
purchased the best editions of the classics, with the most
celebrated works of the ancient philosophers, lawyers,
andx;ritics, and numerous valuable MSS., all of which
he bequeathed to the university, in which he was edu-
cated, with a sum of money as a fund for its further
improvement, and for a salary to the librarian. In
1782, the Earl of Bute, then chancellor, presented to
the library a collection of 1400 volumes; and it was
subsequently enlarged by the collections of Sir "William
Fordyce and Professor Donaldson. The Museum contains
numerous specimens in the various departments of natu-
ral history, and many artificial curiosities, among which
are, an Egyptian mummy ; an antique statue of Escula-
pius, in white marble, two feet in height ; the staff of
office of the earls-marischal of Scotland; a box of gold pre-
sented to the university by the Earl of Buchan, in 1769,
including a silver pen, which is awarded as a prize to
the most successful student of the Greek class ; the
dies for a gold medal of two ounces in weight, given by
the late John Gray, Esq., of London, to be presented to
such of his mathematical bursars as should distinguish
themselves in acquirements ; the various apparatus for
the illustration of natural history ; and the common
seal of the university, bearing the arms of the maris-
chal family, and of those of the city of Aberdeen im-
paled, with the crest a meridian sun, and the motto
Luceo. The Observatory, formerly on the Castle-hill, at
a distance from the college, was removed on the erec-
tion of the present barracks, and government granted to
the university a sum of money, towards the building of
another within the precincts of the college, which was
completed in 1840. It contains a universal equatorial
circle, a transit instrument, a moveable quadrant of two
feet radius, an achromatic telescope with refraction ap-
paratus, reflecting telescopes, an orrery, and various
other astronomical instruments, with a clock striking
the seconds within the hearing of the observer, and an
astronomical clock exhibiting the motions of the celes-
tial bodies.
The Buildings of the university, originally the Fran-
ciscan monastery, several portions of which were rapidly
falling into decay, were taken down in 1838 ; and the
present elegant structure, towards the erection of which
government made a grant of £15,000, was completed at
an expense of £25,000. The principal front of the pre-
sent buildings, on the east side of Broad-street, occupies
three sides of a quadrangle, and is in the later style of
English architecture ■ the central range is ornamented
with a stately square tower, with octagonal turrets at the
angles, surmounted by minarets crowned with ogee
domes, crocketed, and terminating in flowered finials.
Above the doorway, is a noble oriel window of two
stages, and on each side are three open arches, leading
into the interior portion of the structure, above which
are windows of two lights, cinquefoiled, and surmounted
with square-headed dripstones. The wings, which are
A B E R
A B E R
also two stories high, are lighted by ranges of windows
of corresponding style, and at the angles are octagonal
turrets, rising to the parapets, and crowned with lofty
minarets similar to those of the principal tower. The
buildings contain a public hall, library, museum, and
observatory, with spacious class-rooms and other apart-
ments. In the hall are portraits of the earl-marischal,
founder of the university, the last earl, and his brother,
Field-Marshal Keith ; of Bishop Burnet, the Earl of
Bute, Sir Robert Gordon of Straloch, Dr. Arthur John-
ston, Sir Paul Menzies, provost of Aberdeen, and others,
by the celebrated artist, Jamieson.
The city originally constituted the parish of St. Ni-
cholas alone, which was divided by the authority of the
Court of Teinds, in 182S, into the six separate parishes
of East, West, North, South, the Grey Friars, and
St. Clement. The parish of the East Kirk, situated in
the centre of the city, contains a population of 479S ; the
minister's stipend is £300, paid by the corporation, who
are patrons of the whole of the six churches, and receive
the seat-rents, and apply them to church purposes.
The church, originally the choir of the collegiate church
of St. Nicholas, was rebuilt in 1S37, at an expense of
£5000 ; it is a handsome structure in the later English
style, 86 feet in length, and is separated from the West
church, which formed the western portion of the old
edifice, by the lofty arches of the tower. Externally,
the two churches are connected, and embellished with
an elegant facade of granite, 160 feet in length : the East
church contains 1*05 sittings. There are places of wor-
ship for United Secession and Original Burgher congre-
gations, and an episcopal chapel dedicated to St. Paul,
erected in 1722, at an expense of £1000; there are also
places of worship for Wesleyans, Glassites, Unitarians,
and United Christians. The parish of West Kirk contains
a population of 10,166 ; the minister's stipend is £300,
paid by the corporation. The church, originally the
nave of the ancient church of St. Nicholas, is separated
from the East church by the arches of the tower, which
is surmounted by a lofty spire 143 feet high; the West
church was enlarged in 1836, and now contains 1454
sittings. There are places of worship for Independents
and members of the Relief Congregation. The parish
of North Kirk is situated within the town, and contains
a population of 5381 ; the minister's stipend is £300,
paid by the corporation. The church is a handsome
structure of dressed granite, in the Grecian style,
with a lofty tower, and an elegant portico of the Ionic
order, erected in 1S31, by the corporation, and contain-
ing I486 sittings. There are a place of worship for In-
dependents, a Roman Catholic chapel, an episcopal
chapel dedicated to St. John, and one dedicated to St.
Andrew, a handsome structure in the later English
style, erected in 1817, at an expense of £S000. The
parish of South Kirk is situated within the town, and
contains a population of 3934 , the minister's stipend is
£250, paid by the corporation. The church, originally
a chapel of ease, was rebuilt in 1831, at an expense of
£4544, and contains 1562 sittings. There are places of
worship for members of the United Secession Congrega-
tion and for Independents. The parish of the Grey
Friars is wholly in the town, and contains a population
of 5356 ; the minister's stipend is £250, paid by the
corporation. The church, formerly the conventual
church of the monastery of the Grey Friars, is a very
Vol. I.— 17
ancient structure, enlarged and improved some years
since, and contains 1042 sittings. There is a place of
worship for the Society of Friends. The parish of St.
Clement is to the south-east of the town, in the district
of Futtie, and contains a population of 7092 ; the
minister's stipend is £250, arising principally from
bequeathed lands. The church, erected in 1787, on the
site of an ancient chapel, was afterwards rebuilt, on a
larger scale, at an expense of £2600 ; it is capable of
accommodating 1300 persons. The Union quoad sacra
parish, which, like similar ecclesiastical districts in
other parts of the country, has been dissolved, was
separated from the parishes of East Kirk and St. Cle-
meut in 1834, and contained a population of 2790;
the church was built by subscription, in 1822, at an
expense of £2600, and contains 1238 sittings ; a chapel
for seamen, also, was built in the same year, at an ex-
pense of £S00, by the Seamen's Friend Society, and
contains 570 sittings, all of which are free. The quoad
sacra parish of Spring-Garden was separated from the
parish of West Kirk, and annexed to a Gaelic church,
in 1834, and contained a population of 1887; the
church was built in 1795, by subscription and loan,
and contains 700 sittings. The quoad sacra parish of
the Holy Trinity was separated from the parish of South
Kirk, in 1834, and contained a population of 205S ; the
church was erected in 1*94, at an expense of £1700,
and contains 1247 sittings. The quoad sacra parish of
John Knox, separated from the parish of the Grey Friars,
in 1836, contained a population of 3377; the church
was built by subscription, at a cost of £1000, and con-
tains 1054 sittings. Places of worship for members of
the Free Church have been built in different parts of
the city : of these, three are at the head of the Mutton
Brae, connected together, and surmounted by a lofty
and elegant spire.
Tlie Grammar School is of such remote antiquity that
the origin of its foundation is not distinctly known ; in
1418, Andrew de Syves, vicar of Bervie, who had been
master for some years, died, and the school, since that
period, has continued to prosper under a succession of
masters, whose salaries have gradually increased from
£5 Scotch to 600 merks per annum. It appears to have
been supported by various donations, and small fees
paid by the scholars, till 1634, when Dr. Patrick Dun,
principal of Marischal College, bequeathed the lands of
Ferryhill, for the support of four masters, of which pro-
perty he appropriated one-half of the proceeds to the
head master or rector, and the remainder to be equally
divided among the other three masters. The school is
under the patronage of the corporation, the ministers of
the town, and the professors of Marischal College, by
whom the masters are appointed, with preference to
those of the name of Dun ; the course of instruction
comprises the Greek and Latin classics, the French
language, history, geography, arithmetic, and the mathe-
matics. The salary of the rector is £100, and that of
the other masters £50 each, with the fees of their
respective classes, amounting to 13s. id. for each pupil,
with the exception of the sons of poor tenants on the
Ferryhill property, who are taught gratuitously ; there
are about 200 scholars in attendance. The buildings,
erected in 1757, form three sides of a quadrangle, with
two additional wings in the rear. Gordon's Hospital,
for the maintenance and education of the sons of de-
D
A B E R
A B E R
cayed burgesses, was founded in 1732, by Robert Gor-
don, Esq., who, by deed, conveyed the whole of his
property, amounting to £10,300, to the provost and
council of the city, and the ministers of Aberdeen, who
erected a handsome building on the ground, formerly
belonging to the Dominican friary, on School-hill, which
had been purchased by Mr. Gordon ; but the funds,
which had been much reduced by the erection of the
building, were suffered to accumulate till 1750, when the
hospital was opened, and 30 boys admitted on the foun-
dation. The number gradually increased to 80 ; and in
1816, Alexander Simpson, Esq., of Collie-hill, bequeathed
to the principal and professors of Marischal College, and
the ministers of Aberdeen, lands in the parishes of New
and Old Deer, for the maintenance and education of an
additional number of boys, for which purpose the build-
ing was enlarged, by the addition of two wings, at an
expense of £14,000, and 50 more boys were admitted.
The buildings consist of a central range, connected with
the wings by a handsome colonnade, and surmounted
by a small neat spire ; over the principal entrance, in a
niche, is a statue of the founder, in white marble ; in
the hall is a full-length portrait, and in the public school-
room a half-length portrait of the founder. The Boys'
Hospital originated in the separation from the Poor's hos-
pital of the adult inmates and girls, and the subsequent
appropriation of the remaining part of the funds to the
maintenance and education of poor boys, of whom 25
were admitted in 1768, since which time the number has
been increased to 50, who are clothed, maintained, and
taught the ordinary branches of learning. The Girls'
Hospital, upon a similar plan, was instituted in 1 829, and
is supported by subscription and annual collections ;
30 girls are clothed, maintained, and instructed, till
they are 14 years of age, when they are placed out to
service. Dr. Bell, of Madras, bequeathed to the magis-
trates and council £10,000 -three per cents., for the
support of schools upon his system ; and two have been
consequently established, in one of which are 400 boys,
and in the other 300 girls. Schools on the Lancasterian
plan were also opened in 1815, in which, for some years,
were 450 boys and the same number of girls ; but,
since the establishment of the Madras schools, the num-
ber of scholars has been reduced to less than one-half.
In addition to these institutions, there are nearly 40
parochial and other schools in the town and neighbour-
hood, in which the fees vary from two to five shillings per
quarter, and the aggregate number of scholars amounts
to nearly 4000 ; there are also week-day evening schools,
in which the number of scholars is about 700, and 20
Sabbath-schools, in which there are 2000 scholars.
The House of Refuge was established in 1S36, by sub-
scription, aided by a donation of £1000 from George
Watt, Esq., and is supported by annual contributions;
the number of inmates, in 1839, was 420, of whom 120
males and 90 females, who were under 14 years of age,
were instructed in the ordinary branches of a useful
education. The House of Industry and Magdalen Asylum
were also founded chiefly by Mr. Watt, who, for that
purpose, conveyed to trustees the property of Old Mill,
producing a rental of £164. The Deaf and Dumb Insti-
tution was established by subscription, in 1819; but,
from the inadequacy of the funds, only one-half of the
expense of maintenance is afforded to the inmates, who
generally derive the remainder from other charitable
18
funds ; the management is vested in a committee, and
the teacher is allowed to receive private boarders, who
are not chargeable to the funds. The Infirmary was
first established in 1739. by subscription, aided by a
grant of £36 per annum by the magistrates, who also
gave a site for the erection of the building, which was
partly effected in 1760, when 48 patients were admitted.
An addition to the building, in 1820, increased the num-
ber to 70, and in 1833, the managers resolved to erect
an edifice on a larger scale, which was accomplished in
1835, at an expense of £8500, and the institution adapted
for the reception of 210 patients. The government by
charter, is vested in the magistrates, the professor of
medicine in Marischal College, and the moderator of the
synod of Aberdeen, who, with all benefactors of £50
each, constitute the body of directors, of whom sixteen,
chosen annually, form a committee of management ;
there are two physicians, two surgeons, a resident sur-
geon, and an apothecary. The buildings are spacious,
and well ventilated ; there are twenty wards of large
dimensions, and eleven apartments for cases requiring
separate treatment and attendance ; the income averages
£2500. A. dispensary was originally established in
connexion with the infirmary, and partly supported
from the same funds ; but, subsequently, dispensaries
were opened, and maintained by subscription, of which
there were three in the town, and two in the suburbs ;
these, in IS23, were incorporated into one institution
called the General Dispensary.
The Lunatic Asylum was first instituted in 1799, and
a building erected for the purpose at a cost of £34S4,
towards which the magistrates, as trustees of Mr. Car-
gill's charity, contributed £1130, on condition of being
permitted to send ten pauper patients gratuitously ; and
for the reception of an increasing number of patients,
and their requisite classification, some ground adjoining
the asylum was purchased, and an additional building
erected, in 1819, at a cost of £13,135, towards which
the governors appropriated a bequest of £10,000 by
John Forbes, Esq. In 1836, about eleven acres of land
were purchased for £3000, in the cultivation of which
many of the patients are engaged ; several workshops
have also been erected for such as show any predilec-
tion for mechanical pursuits, and to these are added the
powerful influences of religious worship, for which a
chapel has been erected. John Gordon, Esq., of Murtle,
in 1815, bequeathed considerable property to trustees,
for pious and charitable uses, of which the)' assigned
£100 per annum to the lecturers on practical religion
in King's and Marischal Colleges, £150 to aged female
servants, £150 towards the support of Sunday schools.
£300 for the establishment of an hospital for female
orphans, and the residue in annual donations to the
Deaf and Dumb Society, and other institutions. Mr.
John Carnegie, in 1835, left nearly £8000 to trustees,
for the establishment of an Orphan Hospital for females,
and in 1836, Mrs. Elmslie, of London, bequeathed for
the same purpose £26,000 ; with these funds, an appro-
priate building has been erected, on the west side of
the town, and properly endowed. The Asylum for the
Indigent Blind was instituted in 1818, by the trustees of
Miss Cruickshank, who devoted the bulk of her pro-
perty to that purpose, which, after the funds had been
suffered for some years to accumulate, has been carried
into effect, and an appropriate building erected. An
A B E R
ABEll
hospital for the maintenance and education of five
orphan or destitute boys, and as many girls, and for
which, at present, a house has been hired in the Gal-
lowgate, was founded by a bequest of Alexander Shaw, in
the year 1807. The boys are apprenticed, and the girls
placed out as servants ; the former, on the expiration
of their indentures, and the latter after five years' ser-
vice in the sarne family, receive a premium of £10.
There are also numerous religious societies. Among
the most Eminent Natives may be noticed, John Barbour,
archdeacon of Aberdeen in 1330, and author of a me-
trical history of Robert Bruce; George Jamieson, a por-
trait-painter, who was born in 1586, and painted more
than 100 portraits of the principal nobility and gentry,
which are held in high estimation; David Anderson,
distinguished for his mechanical genius, and who, in
1618, greatly improved the harbour by the removal of a
large rock which lay in the middle of the channel, and
obstructed the entrance ; James Gregory, inventor of
the refleoting-telescope, born in 1638, and educated at
Marischal College; James Gibbs, born in 16SS, the
architect of the church of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields,
London ; John Gregory, born in 1724, "professor of
medicine in King's College, and afterwards of Edin-
burgh, where he was succeeded by his son, Dr. James
Gregory, also a native of this place ; and John Ramage,
eminent for his practical skill in the construction of
reflecting-telescopes, of which he made one now in the
Royal Observatory, which, though greatly inferior in size,
is nearly equal in power to Herschel's celebrated forty-
feet reflector. Connected with the town are also, Dr.
Robert Hamilton, professor of natural philosophy, and
afterwards of mathematics, in Marischal College, and
author of a valued essay on the national debt ; Dr. Patrick
Copland, likewise professor of mathematics and natural
philosophy in the college, of which he enriched the
museum with apparatus and models of his own con-
struction ; and Dr. Beattie and the late Lord Byron,
who were residents of Aberdeen. The city gives the
title of Earl to a branch of the Gordon family.
ABERDEEN, OLD, or
Old Mach AR,a parish, chiefly
without, but partly within,
the city of Aberdeen, county
of Aberdeen ; comprising
the quoad sacra districts
of Bon-Accord, Gilcomston,
'^^ Holburn,and Woodside; and
containing 28,020 inhabit-
ants, of whom 7570 are in the
quoad sacra district of Old
Aberdeen. This place, origi-
nally a small hamlet, consist-
Jng only of a few scattered cottages, was, from the erec-
tion of a chapel near the ancient bridge of Seaton by St.
Machar, in the ninth century, called the Kirktown of
Seaton, but was undistinguished by any event of import-
ance, till the year 1137, when it became the seat of a
diocese, on the removal of the see of Aberdeen, by
David I., from Mortlach, in the county of Banff, where
it was originally founded by Malcolm II., and had con-
tinued for more than 120 years. Bishop Kinnimond,
at that time prelate of the see, founded a cathedral
church on the site of the ancient chapel of St. Machar,
which, towards the end of the 13th century, was taken
19
Burgh Seal.
down by Bishop Cheyne, for the purpose of erecting a
structure of more ample dimensions, and of more ap-
propriate character; but, in the contested succession to
the throne of Scotland, becoming an adherent of Baliol,
he was compelled to retire into exile, and the rebuilding
of the cathedral was suspended. On the establishment
of Robert Bruce, however, that monarch recalled the
exiled bishop, who recommenced the work, which was
continued by his successors, of whom Bishop Elphin-
stone, the founder of King's College, with the assistance
of James IV., made rapid progress in the rebuilding of
the cathedral, which was completed by Bishop Dunbar,
in 1518, and, since the abolition of episcopacy in Scot-
land, has been appropriated as the parish church.
The town is pleasantly situated on a gentle eminence
near the river Don, over which is an ancient picturesque
bridge of one lofty arch, in the early English style, said
to have been built by Bishop Cheyne, though by others
ascribed to King Robert Bruce, and concerning which,
under the appellation of the Brig of Balgvwnie, a tra-
ditionary legend prophetic of its downfall is quoted by
Lord Byron. Considerably to the east of this, is an-
other bridge, affording a passage from Aberdeen to the
north, and which was erected from the funds for keep-
ing the old bridge in repair, originally left for that pur-
pose by Sir Alexander Hay, and which, from £2. 5. 6.,
had accumulated to £20,000 ; it is a handsome struc-
ture of five arches, built of granite. The principal
street, which consists of houses irregularly built, ex-
tends from south to north, to the town-house, where
it diverges into two branches, the one leading to the
church, and the other to the old bridge ; the streets are
lighted, and the inhabitants are well supplied with water
by commissioners appointed by the rate-payers. The
environs are extremely pleasant, and richly wooded ;
and in the immediate vicinity of the town are nume-
rous villas. On the establishment of the see at this
place, the town was made a burgh of barony, by
charter of David I. ; and the various privileges con-
ferred upon it by subsequent sovereigns were confirmed
by charter of George I., who granted the inhabitants
the power of choosing their own magistrates. The
government is vested, by charter, in a provost, four
bailies, a treasurer, and council of eight merchant and
five trade-burgesses, assisted by a town-clerk, procu-
rator-fiscal, and other officers. There are seven incor-
porated trades, viz., the hammermen, weavers, tailors,
wrights and coopers, bakers and brewers, fleshers and
fishers, and shoemakers, who elect their own deacons,
and also a deacon convener ; the fees on entrance to
these trades, which confers the privilege of carrying on
trade in the burgh, are £8, and a payment of £3 to the
court of conveners, and for a merchant-burgess £5. 7-
The jurisdiction of the magistrates extends over the
whole burgh, but is seldom exercised ; not more than
two civil causes have been determined in one year ; in
criminal cases, their jurisdiction is limited to petty mis-
demeanours, and all more serious offences are referred
to the sheriffs' court. The burgh, for electoral purposes,
is associated with Aberdeen, and the right of election,
under the Reform act, is vested in the resident £10
householders of the place ; the number of members
of all the several guilds does not in the aggregate ex-
ceed 120, and of these not more than fifteen exercise
any trade. The town-hall, which is situated at the
D 2
ABER
ABER
northern extremity of the principal street, was built by
subscription, in 1/02, and has been since rebuilt ; it
contains a spacious hall for public meetings, a council-
room for the occasional use of the magistrates, and
various other apartments. In the upper floor is the
grammar school, and on the ground floor a school for
English. Opposite to the town-hall was formerly an
ancient cross, consisting of a pedestal bearing the arms
of the Bishops Dunbar, Stewart, and Gordon, from
which rose a pillar surmounted by an effigy of the Virgin
Mary; but this was removed on the rebuilding of the
hall.
Since the dissolution of
the episcopal see, the town
has owed its chief prosperity
and support to its university,
which was founded by Bishop
Elphinstone, in the reign of
James IV., who for that pur-
pose procured a bull from
Pope Alexander VI. ; the
college was first dedicated to
St. Mary, but, from the great
liberality of the monarch in
, J . .. , Seal or the University.
its endowment, it was subse- J "
quently called King's College, which designation it
has ever since retained. The first principal of the
college was Hector Boethius, the celebrated historian,
under whom, and his successors, it continued to flou-
rish till the Reformation, at which time many of its
functionaries were expelled. In 1578, the institution
received a charter from the parliament, after which it
languished, under the gross mismanagement of its prin-
cipals, who sold the ornaments of the chapel, alienated
the revenues for their own emolument, and committed
other abuses. In 1619, however, Bishop Forbes, by great
perseverance, recovered part of the alienated property,
and restored several of the professorships, to which, in
1628, he added a professorship of divinity, which was
afterwards held by his son. From this time, the insti-
tution revived, and continued to flourish till the intro-
duction of the covenant, for refusing to sign which
several of the professors were expelled, among whom
was Dr. Forbes, the divinity professor. Many of the
new professors appointed by the Covenanters, were, in
their turn, ejected by Cromwell, under whom General
Monk dispatched Colonels Desborough, Fenwick, and
others, to visit and reform the college ; but these
officers, though they removed some of the professors,
and appointed others, still promoted the general inte-
rests of the establishment, and subscribed liberally
towards the erection of houses for the students. After
the restoration of Charles II., the bishops of Aberdeen
assumed their authority as chancellors of the univer-
sity, and reformed the disorders which had been intro-
duced during the interregnum. The university, as at
present constituted, is under the direction of a chan-
cellor, generally a nobleman of high rank, who is elected
by the senatus academicus ; a rector, chosen by the
same body; and a principal and sub-principal, elected
by the rector, procuratores gentium, and the pro-
fessors, and admitted by the chancellor. There are
nine professorships, of which those of Greek, humanity,
medicine and chemistry, and civil law, are in the pa-
tronage of the rector, procuratores, and senatus acade-
20
micus; divinity in that of the synod of Aberdeen, the
principal and dean of faculty of theology ; those of
mathematics, natural philosophy, and moral philosophy,
in the patronage of the senatus academicus ; and that
of oriental languages, in the patronage of the crown.
There are also eleven lectureships, of which that on
practical religion is in the patronage of the trustees of
John Gordon, Esq., of Murtle, the founder ; and those
on the evidences and principles of the Christian religion,
Murray's Sunday lectures, materia medica, anatomy
aud physiology, surgery, practice of medicine, mid-
wifery, institutes of medicine, medical jurisprudence,
and botany, are all in the patronage of the senatus
academicus. The number of bursaries is above 150,
varying from £5 to £50 per annum, mostly tenable for
four years ; of these, 96 are open to public competition,
and the others are in the patronage of the professors of
the college, or representatives of the founders.
The site of the college occupies a quadrangular area
of considerable extent, surrounded with buildings raised
at diEFerent periods, of which the most ancient were
erected in 1500, and the whole possesses a strikingly
venerable appearance. In the north-west angle, is a
lofty massive tower, strengthened with canopied but-
tresses, bearing the royal arms of Scotland, and those
of Stewart, Archbishop of St. Andrew's, and others ;
above the parapet is a lantern, supported by flying but-
tresses springing from the angles, in the form of an
imperial crown. On the north side of the quadrangle is
the ancient chapel erected by Bishop Elphinstone, origi-
nally a stately structure of elegant design, with a lofty
spire, and internally embellished with most costly orna-
ments, which, as before noticed, were sold by the par-
liamentarian functionaries ; the nave is now appropriated
to the use of the college library, and the chancel to the
purposes of a college chapel. There are still remaining,
in the former portion, many traces of its pristine beauty,
and an inventory in Latin of the various ornaments of
the chapel ; and in the chancel are the rich tabernacle
work of the prebendal stalls, the pews for the diocesan
synod, the carved oak roof, and the tombs of Bishop El-
phinstone and the first principal, Boethius. The south
side of the quadrangle, rebuilt by Dr. Fraser, in 1725, is
of plain character, 112 feet in length, with a piazza in
front, and at each extremity was a circular tower, of
which one only is remaining. The common hall, which
is 60 feet in length, and 23 feet wide, contains numerous
portraits by Jamieson, including those of Bishops
Elphinstone, Dunbar, Forbes, Leslie, and Scougal, Pro-
fessors Sandiland and Gordon, George Buchanan, and
Queen Mary ; and in the committee-room is a painting,
on panel, of the college as it appeared in the sixteenth
century. The library contains a very valuable and ex-
tensive collection of books and manuscripts, and was
formerly entitled to a copy of every work entered at
Stationers' Hall, of which privilege it was deprived, by
act of parliament, in 1836, and, in compensation, has
since received an annual grant of £3'20. The museum
contains a large collection of specimens in mineralogy
and zoology, numerous Grecian and Roman coins and
antiquities, casts from ancient gems, and some valuable
books of engravings illustrative of these subjects ; this
department was, in 1790, enriched with the coins and
medals bequeathed by Dr. Cummin, of Andover, and
has been subsequently increased by numerous specimens.
ABEIl
A B E II
A commodious room, in the more modern portion of
the building, was handsomely fitted up by subscription,
in 1842, as a museum of natural history. Among the
many distinguished individuals connected with the
university may be noticed, George, Earl Marischal, the
founder of Marischal College ; Chancellor Gordon, of
Haddo, created Earl of Aberdeen in 1682; Dr. Thomas
Bower, an eminent mathematician ; the celebrated Dr.
Reid, professor of philosophy, and afterwards of Glas-
gow ; Lord Monboddo ; Dr. Charles Burney, a distin-
guished Greek scholar; Arthur Johnston, a Latin poet;
Dr. James Gregory, and his sons, afterwards professors
of medicine at Edinburgh ; Robert Hall ; and Sir James
Mackintosh.
The parish originally formed the deanery of St.
Machar, and comprehended the parishes of New Ma-
char and Newhills, which, -soon after the Reformation,
were separated from it ; the present parish is about
eight miles in length, and varies from two to four in
breadth, situated on a peninsula, between the rivers Dee
and Don. The surface rises gradually from the sea-
shore, and the scenery is interspersed with flourishing
plantations, and with the windings of the Dee and Don,
the banks of which latter are richly wooded, and in
some parts, from their precipitous acclivity and rugged
aspect, have a strikingly romantic appearance. The
higher grounds command extensive views of the German
Ocean, of the lofty and ancient bridge on the one side,
and on the other of the cathedral and the spires of
Aberdeen. The soil is various, in some parts richly
fertile, and in others almost sterile ; but the lands are
generally in good cultivation, and the state of agriculture
highly improved. The parish is in the presbytery and
synod of Aberdeen, and patronage of the Earl of Fife ;
the stipend of the first minister is £273. 1. 3., and that
of the second £282. 19. 9., with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £31. 10. per annum. The church was for-
merly an elegant structure, of which the choir, with its
embellishments, was destroyed by the reformers ; and
the remainder of the building was preserved from demo-
lition only by the Earl of Huutlj', and Leslie, of Balqu-
han, who, at the head of a large body of their armed
retainers, drove away the band which had been assem-
bled for its destruction. The interior of the remaining
portion suffered great mutilation under the Covenanters,
who destroyed the altar, and the rich carvings and other
ornaments; and in 1688, the high tower at the east
end of the nave, which had been undermined by the
soldiers of Cromwell, through the removal of masonry,
for the erection of their works at Castle-hill, and which,
with its spire, 150 feet in height, had long served as a
landmark to mariners, fell to the ground, destroying, in
its fall, a considerable portion of the nave, with several
of the monuments. The great arches on which the
central tower was supported, have been built up, and
the two towers at the west end are in good preservation ;
they are 112 feet high, and, after rising to the height of
52 feet, in a quadrilateral form, are continued by a suc-
cession of octangular turrets, decreasing in size till they
terminate in a finial surmounted by a cross. The ceil-
ing is divided into forty-eight compartments, in which
are emblazoned, in vivid colours recently renewed, the
armorial bearings of the Scottish kings, the ecclesias-
tical dignitaries, and the principal nobility. Of the
several monuments still remaining, that of Bishop
21
Scougal, father of Henry Scougal, author of the Life of
God in the Soul of Man, is the most interesting and
entire ; there are also a monument to William Blake, of
Haddo, sub-principal of King's College, and tablets to
Gordon and Scott, professors, and David Mitchell, Esq.,
LL.D. The portion of the building appropriated as the
parish church, is neatly fitted up, and contains 1594
sittings ; the chapel in King's College contains 350
sittings. There are places of worship for members of
the Free Church.
The grammar school, which is held in the town-hall,
is under the patronage of the magistrates and council,
and is visited annually by the professors of the college,
and the ministers. The parochial school affords instruc-
tion to about 70 scholars ; the master has a salary
of £30, and an equal sum from the trustees of Dick's
bequest, and the fees average about £30 per annum.
There are also two schools on the Madras system,
founded by a bequest of Dr. Bell. An hospital was
founded in 1531, by Bishop Dunbar, who endowed it
for twelve aged men ; the buildings consisted of a re-
fectory, twelve dormitories, and a chapel surmounted
with a small spire. The endowment has been subse-
quently increased by donations and bequests, and by
the proceeds of the sale of the buildings ; the present
funds are about £3000, from the interest of which 21
aged men derive relief. An hospital was founded in
1801, by Dr. Mitchell, for lodging, clothing, and main-
taining five widows, and five unmarried daughters of
burgesses in indigent circumstances, for which purpose
he bequeathed ample funds, in trust, to the principal of
King's College, the provost, and senior bailie of the
town, and the two ministers of the parish. The build-
ing, which is situated near the church, is one story
high, and contains a kitchen, refectory, and dormitories,
neatly furnished ; and attached to it is a pleasure-
ground. A dispensary was established in 1S26.
ABERDEENSHIRE, a maritime county, in the
north-east part of Scotland, and one of the most exten-
sive in the kingdom, bounded on the north by Moray
Frith; on the east by the German Sea; on the south by
Perth, Forfar, and Kincardine shires, and on the west by
the counties of Banff and Inverness. It lies between 56°
52' and 57° 42' (N. Lat.), and 1° 49' and 3° 48' (W. Lon.),
and is S6 miles in extreme length, and 42 miles in ex-
treme breadth; comprising an area of 1985 square
miles, or 1,270,400 acres; 32,063 inhabited, and 1091
uninhabited, houses ; and containing a population of
192,387, of which number 89,707 are males, and 102,6S0
females. From the time of David I., the county was
included in the diocese of Aberdeen ; and at present, it
is almost wholly in the synod of Aberdeen, and includes
several presbyteries, the whole containing eighty-five pa-
rishes. For civil purposes, it is divided into eight dis-
tricts, Aberdeen, Alford, Deer, otherwise Buchan, Ellon,
Garioch, Kincardine, O'Neil, Strathbogie, and Turriff,
in each of which, under the superintendence of a deputy
lieutenant, the county magistrates hold regular courts ;
and it contains the three royal burghs of Aberdeen,
Kintore, and Inverury, with the market-towns of Peter-
head, Fraserburgh, Huntly, Turriff, and Meldrum, and
numerous large fishing-villages on the coast. Under
the act of the 2nd of William IV., the county returns
one member to the imperial parliament. The surface,
towards the sea, is tolerably level ; but the greater por <
A B E R
ABER
tion forms part of the central highlands, and consists
of high mountains, interspersed with a few valleys.
The principal mountains are, the Braeriach, which has
an elevation of 4304 feet, Ben-Macdhui, Ben-Aburd, Ben-
Aven, Lochnagar, and Morven, which vary from 2500
to 4300 in height, with numerous others from 800 to
2000 feet in height; the chief valleys are the Garioch
and Strathbogie, the former inclosed on all sides with
hills of moderate height, and the latter enriched with
wood, abounding in beautiful scenery, and highly culti-
vated. The rivers are, the Dee, the Don, the Ythan,
the Doveran, and the Ugie, but the rapidity of their
currents renders them comparatively useless for the
purpose of navigation; they have their sources, gene-
rally, among the mountains in the south-west, and flow
towards the north or north-east ; they all abound with
fine salmon, and fish of every kind is taken on the
coast.
About one-third of the lands is under cultivation,
and the remainder mountain, pasture, and waste. The
soil, towards the sea, and in the valleys, is rich and fer-
tile, producing excellent crops of wheat and other grain ;
and in the more secluded portions of the county, is some
fine timber, among which are numerous lofty pine-trees,
fit for the masts of ships ; but, from the want of inland
navigation, few of them are felled for that purpose.
Between the Dee and the Ythan, is a low tract of waste,
on which are some sand- hills that have been lamentably
destructive of the adjacent lands ; several fertile fields,
to the north of the Ythan, have been covered, to a great
extent, with sand blown from these hills, and the walls
of a church and a manse that have been buried by them,
are still to be seen. The minerals are quartz and as-
bestos ; and various gems and pieces of amber are
found in the mountains : the principal quarries are of
granite of very superior quality, of which vast quantities
are annually sent to London and other places, and
freestone and limestone are also extensively quarried.
Many of the proprietors reside on their lands, and have
materially contributed to their improvement, by exten-
sive plantations, and the introduction of a better system
of agriculture, and superior breeds of cattle ; and much
waste land has been brought into cultivation under the
patronage of the Highland Society. The chief seats are,
Haddo House, Aboyne Castle, Huntly Lodge, Slains
Castle, Keith Hall, Mar Lodge, Delgaty Castle, Skene,
Castle-Forbes, Philorth House, Monymusk, Ellon Castle,
Fintray House, Fyvie Castle, Gordon Lodge, and Castle-
Frazer. The coast is bold and rocky, with some alter-
nations of level beach. The most prominent headlands,
on the Moray Frith, are, Rosehearty Point and Kin-
naird Head; and on the German Sea, Cairnbulg Point,
Rattray Head, Scotstown Point, Invernetty Point, and
Buchan Ness ; and the chief bays, in the former, are,
the harbour of Rosehearty, and the bay of Fraserburgh ;
and in the latter, Peterhead Bay, Cruden Bay, Sandy
Haven, Long Haven, Garrick's Haven, and the bay of
Aberdeen. Facility of communication is maintained by
good roads, some of which were made under the autho-
rity of the commissioners for the Highland roads and
bridges, appointed by act of parliament.
ABERDOUR, a parish, in the district of Deer,
county of Aberdeen; comprising the village of Pen-
nan, and containing 1645 inhabitants, of whom 376
are in the village of New Aberdour, 8 miles (W. by S.)
22
from Fraserburgh. The name of this place is supposed
to have been derived from a Gaelic term Aber, signify-
ing "mouth" or "opening," in reference to the rivulet
Dour, which finds an entrance into the sea, a short dis-
tance below the manse. There are numerous cairns
and tumuli, containing stone coffins with the ashes and
bones of human bodies, indicating the parish to have
been originally the theatre of military conflicts ; and
the castle of Dundargue, also, stands here, which Sir
Thomas Beaumont fortified and garrisoned, in right of
his wife, who was daughter to the Earl of Buchan, when
he accompanied Edward Baliol, who came to claim the
kingdom of Scotland. This castle was of great import-
ance in the feudal times, and is famed for a long siege
in 1336, when Henry de Beaumont, the English Earl of
Buchan, capitulated to Murray, Regent of Scotland,
during the captivity of David Bruce. On the coast is a
cave called Covvshaven, which is celebrated as the hiding-
place of Lord Pitsligo, after the battle of Culloden ; but
this retreat, from which he was obliged to fly, was at
last discovered by the impressions on the snow, of the
footsteps of a woman, who regularly supplied him with
food.
The parish contains 15,165 imperial acres, of which
5S73 are cultivated, 560S are moor or green pasture,
3486 moss, 88 wood, and 101 roads, &c. ; its form is
altogether irregular, consisting of a kind of zig-zag
boundary, some parts of which dart off to a consider-
able extent. The northern boundary runs for about
seven miles along the shore of the Moray Frith, which
is broken by numerous openings and caves, some of
which penetrate for a long distance into the land. The
coast in general is bold and rocky, and on the estate of
Auchmedden stands the colossal Pitjossie, an immense
natural arch, which strikes the beholder with astonish-
ment, when viewed from the summit of the adjoining
cliff, and is said to rival the celebrated Bullers of Buchan.
On the coast are also the three small bays of Aberdour,
Pennan, and Nethermill, the beaches of which consist
of large quantities of stones washed down the Dour
burn and other streams, and thrown back by the vio-
lence of the sea, on the occurrence of a storm. The sur-
face, generally, is unequal, the eastern division being
fiat and low, while the estate of Auchmedden, on the
western side, rises about 200 or 300 feet above the level
of the sea ; on that property are several deep ravines
and dens, which, with the numerous plants and adja-
cent scenery, present a striking and romantic appear-
ance. In the south-eastern extremity are three farms,
entirely cut off from the rest of the parish by the lands
of Tyrie, and which some suppose to have been origi-
nally grazing land for the cattle belonging to the tenants
on the sea-coast ; but others think that, at the time the
parish was erected, they formed a separate estate be-
longing to the proprietor, who, wishing to have all his
property in one parish, included them within the bounds
of Aberdour. In the south-west of the parish, on the
farm of Kinbeam, is a fresh- water loch, called Monwig,
situated in a large and deep moss; it is 200 yards long,
and 22 broad, and in some parts very deep ; and the
dark mossy water, of which it consists, is covered, in
the season, with flocks of wild geese and ducks. There
are also several small streams, all of which run into the
Moray Frith ; and near Pitjossie, in the glen of Dardar,
is a cascade, the water of which, after dashing from the
ABER
A B E R
top of a rock into three successive basins, glides gently
for 100 yards, until it falls into the Frith.
The soil near the coast is a strong loamy clay, which,
with good husbandry, yields fine crops, but in many
other parts it is cold and mossy, exhibiting merely cul-
tivated patches of land ; the produce raised chiefly com-
prises oats, turnips, potatoes, barley, bear, and bay.
Great improvements have taken place in agriculture
within the last thirty years, especially upon the estate
of Aberdour, where a regular and scientific system of
drainage has been adopted. The bog, moss, and moor,
with which the arable land was mixed, have been re-
moved ; bridges and roads have been constructed, and
a proper rotation of crops introduced and observed ;
which, together with the application of the most ap-
proved methods of cultivation, have entirely altered the
character of the parish. In other parts, however, there
is a deficiency of good inclosures, arising from the
scarcity of stones for building dykes ; but the farm-
steadings are in decent condition, and generally covered
with tiles or thatch. The rocks on the shore, which
are lofty and precipitous, are a coarse sandstone, pass-
ing frequently into conglomerate, and greywacke slate ;
the loose blocks are primary trap or granite, and in
some parts are seen convolved masses of clay and lime-
stone, in which have been found the fossil remains of
fish. There are several quarries of granite and sand-
stone, and two of millstone, one of which, in the rocks
of Pennan, though now but little worked, is said to
contain some of the best stones in Britain ; the stones
from this quarry were formerly in great repute, and
sent to the south and west of Scotland, but the high
price set upon them, has greatly lowered the demand.
The chief mansion is Aberdour House, an old build-
ing, occupying a very bleak situation ; and there are
several other residences, particularly one on the estate
of Auchmedden, the glens of which, justly celebrated as
the beds of the finest collection of plants to be found
in Scotland, include some scarce specimens of botanical
treasure.
The parish contains the villages of New Aberdour and
Pennan, the former erected in 1798; the inhabitants are
employed in agricultural pursuits, with the exception of
a few engaged in fishing, at Pennan. The manufacture
of kelp was formerly carried on to a considerable extent,
but has been greatly reduced, in consequence of the
repeal of the duty upon Spanish barilla, which is now
generally used in its stead. The white-fishing at
Pennan, on the estate of Auchmedden, employs six
boats, with four men each, who pay a rent to the
proprietor of £20 sterling, and some dried fish ; and
several long boats annually proceed to the herring-
fishing in the Moray Frith, which abounds with the
best fish of almost every description, excepting salmon,
very few of which are to be obtained. There are two
meal-mills in the parish, the one at Aberdour, and the
other at Nethermill, both built partly of granite, and
partly of red sandstone. Four annual fairs are held at
New Aberdour, for cattle, merchandise, and hiring
servants, of which two take place at Whitsuntide and
Martinmas, one in the middle of April, and the other in
the middle of August ; and there is also a fair called
Byth Market, occurring twice in the year, in May and
October, upon a moor in the south of the parish, where
cattle are sold. The turnpike-road from Fraserburgh to
23
Banff touches the parish, at the two points of Bridgend
in the east, and Cowbog in the west, and is rendered
available to the parishioners by an excellent junction
road, constructed some years since by one of the
heritors. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the
presbytery of Deer and synod of Aberdeen ; the patron
is A. D. Fordyce, Esq. ; the minister's stipend is
above £200, with a manse, built in 1822, and a glebe
of about 7 acres, valued at £14 a year. The church,
which is conveniently situated at the northern extre-
mity of the village of New Aberdour, was erected in
ISIS, and contains about 900 sittings. There is a
parochial school, where Latin is taught, with all the
ordinary branches of education, and of which the master
has a salary of £32, and about £15 fees, with a house.
The chief relic of antiquity is the castle of Dundar-
gue, situated upon a lofty precipice overhanging the
sea : and at a place called Chapelden, are the ruins of
a Roman Catholic chapel, on a hill opposite the Toar
of Troup. Mineral springs are found in every direc-
tion, the most famed of which is one named Mess
John's Well, a strong chalybeate, celebrated for its
medicinal virtue ; it issues from a rock about 200 yards
west of the burn of Aberdour, and has a small basin,
like a cup, to receive the water that drops, which basin
is commonly said to have been formed by John White,
laird of Ardlaw-hill, during the contest of religious
parties.
ABERDOUR, a parish, in the district of Dunferm-
line, county of Fife ; including the island of Inch-
cohn, and the village of Newtown ; and containing 1916
inhabitants, of whom 307 are in Easter, and 469 in
Wester, Aberdour, 8 miles (S. \V.) from Dunfermline.
This place takes its name from its situation at the mouth
of the Dour, a rivulet which flows into the Forth near
the village ; it was anciently the property of the Vipont
family, of whose baronial castle there are still consi-
derable remains. The castle, with the lands, passed,
in 1 125, from the Viponts, by marriage, to the Mor-
timers, of whom Allen de Mortimer granted the western
portion of the lands to the monks of Inchcolm, in con-
sideration of the privilege of being allowed to bury in
the church of their monastery on the island, aboat a
mile distant from the shore. When conveying the re-
mains of one of that family to the abbey for interment,
a violent storm is said to have arisen, which compelled
the party to throw the coffin into the channel, which,
from that circumstance, obtained the appellation of
" Mortimer's Deep." The ancient castle is a stately
pile of massive grandeur, situated on an eminence, on
the east bank of the water of Dour, and commanding an
extensive view of the Frith of Forth ; in front, is a spa-
cious terrace, overlooking the gardens, into which are
several descents by flights of steps. It was partly de-
stroyed by an accidental fire, about the beginning of the
18th century, since which time it has been abandoned,
and suffered to fall into decay ; but the roof is still
entire, and several of the apartments are in tolerable
preservation, though used only as lumber-rooms. At a
small distance, is the old church, now a roofless ruin ; it
contains the ancient family vault of the Morton family,
and is surrounded by a small cemetery.
The parish, which is bounded on the south by the
river Forth, is about three miles in length, from east to
west, and nearly of equal breadth, comprising about
A B E R
ABER
6240 acres, of which 3240 are arable, about 1800 wood-
land and plantations, and the remainder meadow and
pasture. The surface is broken by the ridge of the
Collelo hills, which traverses the parish from east to
west, and of which the summits are richly wooded, and
the southern acclivities in profitable cultivation. To-
wards the river, along which the parish extends for
more than two miles, the ground is, for the most part,
tolerably level ; but on the east, the coast is rocky and
precipitous, rising abruptly into eminences which are
wooded to the margin of the Forth. On the face of the
hills, walks have been laid out, commanding diversified
prospects ; and on the west, is a rich bay of white
sand, surrounded with trees, from which the ground
rises towards the west, into eminences crowned with
thriving plantations, which, stretching southward, ter-
minate in a perpendicular mass of rock washed by the
sea, by which, and by the headlands on the south-east,
the harbour is securely sheltered from the winds. To
the north-west of the harbour, the surface again rises
into a hill richly wooded, adding greatly to the beauty of
the scenery, and commanding, on the right, a view of
the island of Inchcolm, with the picturesque ruins of the
abbey, and, on the left of it, the town of Burntisland,
with the coasts of Lothian, the city of Edinburgh, and
the Pentland hills in the distance.
The soil on the north side of the ridge of hills, which
has a considerable elevation above the sea, is cold and
sterile, but on the south side more genial and fertile ;
and generally a rich black loam, in some parts alter-
nated with sand. The chief crops are, wheat, oats,
barley, beans, potatoes, and turnips ; the system of
agriculture is much improved, and the farm-buildings
are substantial and commodious. The substratum
abounds with coal, of which an extensive mine on the
lands of Donibristle, belonging to the Earl of Moray,
is in operation, about 2| miles from the village ; and on
Cottlehill, coal is also wrought. Freestone of white
colour, and of compact texture, was formerly quarried to
a great extent, and much of it was sent to Edinburgh
and Glasgow, for ornamental buildings ; and on the
lands of the Earl of Morton, is a quarry of stone, ad-
mirably fitted for piers and other purposes where great
durability is requisite, and from which large blocks were
used in the construction of Granton Pier. Aberdour
House, the seat of the Earl of Morton, is a spacious
mansion, on the west bank of the Dour, opposite to the
ancient castle, and surrounded with pleasure-grounds
richly wooded, and tastefully laid out. Hillside is a
stately mansion, commanding views of the Frith of
Forth, the opposite coasts, and the adjacent scenery ;
and Whitehill Cottage, and Cottlehill House, are also
finely situated. The village of Aberdour is divided into
two portions called Easter and Wester, by the river
Dour, over which is a handsome bridge ; and to the
south of the western portion, is the village of Newtown,
consisting of Sea-side-place and Manse-street. The
beauty of the surrounding scenery, the numerous retired
walks in the neighbourhood, and the fine sandy beach,
have rendered these villages places of favourite resort
during the summer months, for bathing ; and for the
accommodation of the numerous visiters, lodging-houses
are extensively provided. Steamers ply twice in the
day from Edinburgh, during summer, and pinnaces daily
from Leith harbour, throughout the year.
24
The manufacture of coarse linen was formerly carried
on extensively, by hand-loom weavers ; but it has
greatly decreased. On the Dour, about a mile from the
old village, is an iron forge, in which spades, shovels,
and other implements are made, and of which the great
hammer is worked by water power ; there are also a
brick-work, and some saw-mills of recent establishment.
Considerable quantities of coal are shipped from the
harbour, for exportation ; and several foreign vessels
arrive weekly, for freights of coal, from the mines : be-
tween the harbour and Burntisland, is an oyster-bed
belonging to the Earl of Morton, which is leased to the
fishermen of Newhaven. A fair is held on the 20th of
June, chiefly for pleasure. The ecclesiastical affairs of
the parish are under the superintendence of the pres-
bytery of Dunfermline and synod of Fife. The minis-
ter's stipend is £207. 14. 6., with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £13 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Morton.
The church, erected in 1790, and repaired in 1826, is a
plain building. There is a place of worship for mem-
bers of the Free Church. The parochial school is at-
tended by about 100 children ; the master has a salary of
£34. 4. 4., with a house and garden, and the fees average
£30 per annum. An hospital was founded in Wester
Aberdour, by Anne, Countess of Moray, who endowed it
for four aged widows, of whom three are appointed by
the family, and one by the clerk of the signet ; each of
the widows has a separate apartment, with an allowance
of coal and candles, and £5 per annum in money. On
the summit of a hill on the farm of Dalachy, was a cairn,
on the removal of which, during agricultural improve-
ments, were found a stone coffin containing a human
skeleton, several earthen vessels containing human bones,
a spear-head of copper, and various other relics. The
field adjoining the garden of the old manse is called the
" Sisters' land," from its having been anciently the site
of a Franciscan nunnery. The place gives the title of
Baron to the Earl of Morton.
ABERFELDY, a village, chiefly in the parish of
Dull, and partly in that of Logierait, county of
Perth, 6| miles (N. E.) from Kenmore ; containing 823
inhabitants. This is a considerable and thriving village,
situated on the southern bank of the river Tay, and on
the great Highland road. It is surrounded with thick
and luxuriant woods of hazel and birch ; and in its
vicinity are the falls of Moness, remarkable for the
beauty and grandeur of the scenery, and the majesty of
their torrents, which rush furiously from precipice to
precipice, with a tremendous and fearful roar : the
ascent is from the village, and is attained by pleasing
and varied walks, with seats at intervals for the accom-
modation of the visiter. The river is here crossed by a
bridge, erected by General Wade. There are places of
worship for Independents and members of the Free
Church ; and a savings' bank. — See Dull.
ABERFOYLE, a parish, in the county of Perth, 14
miles (W. by S.) from Doune, and 20 (W. by N.) from
Stirling ; containing 543 inhabitants. This place de-
rives its name from the situation of the church, near the
mouth of a rivulet called, in Gaelic, the Poll or Foile,
which forms a confluence with the river Forth, at this
place an inconsiderable stream. The lands originally
formed part of the possessions of the ancient family of
the Grahams, earls of Menteith, and on failure of heirs
male, about the end of the 17th century, became the
A B E 11
ABER
property of the ancestors of the Duke of Montrose, the
present sole proprietor. The parish, which is in the
south-western portion of the county, forms the extreme
precinct of the Highlands, in that direction, and extends
for nearly fourteen miles from east, to west, and from
five to seven miles from north to south ; comprising the
beautifully romantic vale of Aberfoyle, which abounds
with all the varieties of highland scenery. The vale
is inclosed by lofty mountains on the one side, forming
a part of the Grampian range, of which the highest in
this parish are, Bcnvenue, having an elevation of 2S00,
and Benchochan, of "000 feet above the sea. From
both these mountains, beneath which lies the celebrated
scenery of the Trosachs, are obtained extensive views of
the " windings of the chase," and the most interesting
parts of the surrounding country described by Sir Wal-
ter Scott, in his poem of the Lady of the Lake
In the vale of Aberfoyle are the lochs Katrine, Ard,
Chon, Auchray, and Dronky. Loch Katrine, which is
about 9 miles in length, aud one mile broad, has a depth
of about 70 fathoms; and the lofty, and in some parts
precipitous, acclivities on its shores, are richly wooded
nearly to their summits, adding greatly to the beautiful
scenery for which it is so eminently distinguished.
Loch Ard, about 4 miles in length, and one mile in
breadth, is divided into two portions, the Upper and
Lower Ard, connected by a channel 200 yards in length ;
it is bounded, on one side, by the lofty mountain Ben
Lomond, of which the richly-wooded declivity extends
to its margin. On a small island in the lake, are the
ruins of an ancient castle built by the Duke of Albany,
uncle of James I. of Scotland. Loch Chon, about 2|
miles in length, and one mile in breadth, is beautifully
skirted on the north-east by luxuriant plantations, and
on the south-west, by the mountain of Ben Don, 1500
feet in height, and of which the sides are covered with
forests of aged birch and mountain ash. Loch Auchray,
in the Trosachs, and Loch Dronky, which is two miles
long, and about half a mile broad, are both finely situ-
ated, and embellished with rich plantations. Between
the mountains, are several small valleys, about a mile in
length, and a quarter of a mile in width, formerly
covered with heath, but which have been cleared, and
brought into cultivation. The river Forth has its source
at the western extremity of the parish, at a place called
Skid-N'uir, or "the ridge of yew-trees," issuing from a
copious spring, and flowing through the lochs Chon and
Ard, about half a mile to the east of which latter, it re-
ceives the waters of the Duchray, a stream rising near
the summit of Ben Lomond, and which is also regarded
as the source of the Forth, though the former is the
larger of the two.
The arable lands bear but, a very inconsiderable pro-
portion to the pasture and woodlands. The upper, or
highland, part of the parish, which is by far the greater,
is divided principally into sheep farms, upon which
scarcely sufficient grain is raised to supply the occupiers
and their shepherds ; the lower grounds are chiefly ara-
ble, and in good cultivation, yielding grain of every
kind, for the supply of the parish, and also for sending
to the markets. The soil in the lower portions is fertile,
producing, not only grain, but turnips, with the various
grasses, and excellent crops of rye and clover ; the farm-
buildings, with very few exceptions, are commodious,
and mostly of modern erection, and the lands are well
Vol. I.— 25
drained. The sheep are of the black-faced breed, and
great attention is paid to their improvement ; the cattle
on the upland farms are of the black Highland breed,
and in addition to those reared on the lands, great
numbers are pastured during the winter, for which many
of the farms are well adapted by the shelter afforded by
the woods ; the cattle on the lowland farms are chiefly
of the Ayrshire breed. The whole of the woods, from
the head of Loch Chon to the loch of Monteith, in the
parish of Port of Monteith, are the property of the Duke
of Montrose ; they consist of oak, ash, birch, mountain-
ash, alder, hazel, and willow, and are divided into twenty-
four portions, of which one is felled every year, as
it attains a growth of 24 years, within which period
the whole are cut down and renewed, in succession.
On the west side of the mountains, is limestone of very
superior quality, of a blue colour, with veins of white,
and susceptible of a high polish ; it is extensively
wrought near the eastern extremity of the parish, for
building, and for manure, solely by the tenants of the
several farms. To the west of the limestone range, is
a mountain consisting almost entirely of slate, occurring
in regular strata, in the quarries of which about 20
men are employed. The prevailing rocks are conglo-
merate and trap, or whinstone ; but the want of water
carriage, and the distance of the markets, operate ma-
terially to diminish their value.
The village is situated near the eastern extremity of
the parish : the making of pyroligneous acid affords
employment to a few persons. A post-office has been
established, as a branch of that of Doune ; and fairs are
held in April, for cattle ; on the first Friday in August,
for lambs ; and on the third Thursday in October, for
hiring servants. The lakes and rivers abound with
trout, pike, perch, and eels ; and char is also found in
Loch Katrine. The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of
Dunblane and synod of Perth and Stirling. The mi-
nister's stipend is £158. 6. 8., of which part is paid
from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe contain-
ing 15 Scottish acres of good land, partly arable and
partly meadow ; patron, the Duke of Montrose. The
church, built in 1774, and thoroughly repaired in 1839,
is a plain structure, containing 250 sittings : divine
service is also performed occasionally, by the minister,
in the schoolroom. The parochial school is well at-
tended ; the master has a salary of £28, with a house
and garden, and the fees average about £6 per annum.
Near the manse are the remains of a Druidical circle,
consisting of ten upright stones, with one of much
larger dimensions in the centre. The Rev. James
Richardson, whose son was professor of humanity at
Glasgow ; and the Rev. Patrick Graham, eminent for
the variety and extent of his talents, and employed in
revising an edition of the Sacred Scriptures in the Gaelic
language, were ministers of the parish.
ABERLADY, a parish, in the county of Hadding-
ton, 4 miles (X. \V.) from Haddington ; containing
1050 inhabitants, of whom 537 are in the village. This
place is situated on the Frith of Forth, and near the
mouth of the small river Peffer, supposed to have been
anciently called the Leddie, from which circumstance
the name Aberlady is said to have been derived. A
strong castle was built here in 1518, by John, grand-
son of Sir Archibald Douglas, of Kilspindy, treasurer
E
ABER
A B E R
of Scotland during the minority of James V., but who,
partaking in the rebellion of his family, forfeited his
estates, and died in exile. The parish is bounded on
the north and north-west by the Frith, and comprises
about 4000 acres, chiefly under tillage, with very little
permanent pasture, and only a small portion of wood-
land. The surface is generally flat, but having a very
gradual slope, from the coast to the south and south-
east ; and though attaining no considerable elevation,
even at the highest point, it still commands a richly-
varied and extensive prospect over the Frith of Forth,
in its widest expanse, the Pentland hills, the city of
Edinburgh, with its castle, and the Grampian hills.
The soil near the coast is light and sandy, in some parts
clayey, and on the more elevated lands a rich and fertile
loam; the system of agriculture is in an improved state;
tile-draining has been extensively practised, and on all
of the farms are threshing-mills, of which many are driven
by steam. Comparatively little attention has been paid
to the rearing of live stock ; but the number of sheep
and cattle is increasing, and it. is not improbable that,
in due time, the farmers will be distinguished for im-
provements in the breeds of stock. The chief substrata
are limestone and whinstone, and coal is supposed to
exist in some of the lands ; the limestone is not worked,
but along the coast, the whinstone is quarried exten-
sively ; clay of good quality for bricks and tiles is
found, and about twenty persons are employed in works
for that purpose. Ballencrieff, the seat of Lord Elibank,
is a handsome mansion, in a richly-planted demesne,
commanding some fine views of the surrounding country.
Gosford, the seat of the Earl of Wemyss and March,
and upon which immense sums have been expended,
was anciently a possession of the noble family of Ache-
son, whose titles as barons, viscounts, and earls, have
been chosen from this place, where was formerly a vil-
lage that no longer exists. The mansion is beautifully
situated, and contains an extensive and choice collection
of paintings, by the most eminent masters of the Flemish
and Italian schools. Luffness is an ancient mansion,
considerably enlarged and improved, but still retaining
much of its original character ; the grounds are well
planted, and laid out with exquisite taste. The village
is pleasantly situated, near the influx of the Peffer into
the Frith, and is neatly built ; a subscription library
has been established, and there is also a parochial lend-
ing library. At this part of the coast is a small haven,
where vessels of seventy tons may anchor at spring
tides, but from which their return to the sea is difficult
when the wind happens to be westerly ; the haven is
the port of Haddington, but the trade carried on is
insignificant.
At a very remote period, there appears to have been
an establishment of Culdees near the village, which was
probably subordinate to the monastery of Dunkeld, on
the erection of which place into a bishopric, David I.
conferred the lands of Aberlady and Kilspindy on the
bishop, in whose possession they remained till the Re-
formation. Gavin Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld, granted
these lands to Sir Archibald Douglas, in 1522, and in
1589, they were resigned to the crown, and the church
of Aberlady became a rectory, independent of the dio-
cese ; the patronage remained with the Douglas family,
from whom it passed to others, and ultimately to the
Earl of Wemyss, the present patron. The parish is in
26
the presbytery of Haddington and synod of Lothian
and Tweeddale ; the stipend of the incumbent is
£280. 11. 11., with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£27. 10. per annum. The church, rebuilt in 1773, is a
neat and substantial edifice, adapted for a congregation
of 525 persons ; four handsome silver cups, for the
communion service, were presented by the Wedderburn
family. The parochial school affords a liberal course of
instruction ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4|., with
£34 fees, and a house and garden. Till very lately,
there were some remains of the castle of Kilspindy,
already noticed, situated between the village and the
sea-shore ; but they have now totally disappeared. On
the margin of a small stream which separates the parish
from that of Gladsmuir, are the ruins of Redhouse
Castle, apparently a place of great strength, the erection
of which is referred to the 16th century; the lands be-
longed, in the 15th century, to the family of Laing, of
which one was treasurer of Scotland in 1465, bishop
of Glasgow in 14/3, and high chancellor in 1483. The
more ancient portion of the house of Luffness was for-
merly inclosed within a fortification, raised to intercept
the supplies sent by sea to the English garrison at Had-
dington ; the fortification was demolished in 1551, but
the house was preserved. Near the site was once a con-
vent of Carmelite friars, to whom David II. granted a
charter ; at Ballencrieff, and at Gosford, were ancient
hospitals, of which there are now no remains. Along
the coast, stone coffins and human bones have been fre-
quently dug up, supposed to have been those of persons
slain in some conflict near the spot.
ABERLEMNO, a parish, in the county of Forfar,
6 miles (N. E.) from Forfar; containing, with the
chapelry of Auldbar, 1023 inhabitants. This place
is named from the small river Lemno, the word Aber-
lemno signifying " the mouth of the Lemno," which
stream, after flowing a few miles towards the south-
west, and winding northerly around the western ex-
tremity of the hill of Oathlaw, strikes off to the east,
and falls into the Esk, about a mile from its source.
The parish is separated on the north, by the Esk, from
those of Tannadice and Careston, and measures about 6
miles in length, and 5 in breadth, in some places. It forms
part of a hilly district situated towards the south of
Strathmore, the higher portions, which are bleak, being
principally covered with broom and heath, while the
lower grounds are generally fertile, though in one di-
rection subject to inundations from the Esk. The hill
of Turin is the highest, the others attaining only a
moderate elevation ; it rises about 800 feet above the
level of the sea, commanding extensive prospects, and
contributing greatly, by the plantations of fir on its
slope, to the improvement of the scenery. The lake
of Balgavies, on the southern boundary, affords good
pike and perch angling, and yielded formerly a large
supply of marl for manuring the lands. The inhabit-
ants, with the exception of a few engaged in weaving
and in quarrying, follow agricultural pursuits, and the
farmers pay much attention to the rearing of cattle,
considerable numbers of which, with large quantities of
potatoes, are sent to the London market. There are
four meal and barley mills, driven by water, and all the
large farms have threshing-mills. Several quarries of
fine slate stone, of a greyish colour, are in operation, sup-
plying a good material for building.
A B E R
ABER
The neighbourhood abounds with old castles, and the
remains of strong places, some of which are still in-
habited, and are beautified with trees of the finest wood
in the parish, especially the houses of Auldbar, Turin,
and Balgavies ; the first of these consists of an ancient
and a modern portion, and is inhabited ; that of Balga-
vies is comparatively modern, a single vault only of the
ancient structure remaining. The house of Carsegownie
has been lately partially stripped of its antiquated and
feudal appearance ; but the castle of Flemmington, a
little to the east of the church, retains all the distin-
guishing features of the predatory era in which it was
erected. The Auldbar turnpike-road, joining the rail-
way station of the same name to Brechin, passes
through the place, as well as a portion of the turnpike-
road from Forfar to Montrose ; and there is a parish
road from Forfar to Brechin, running in a north-easterly
direction, through the whole length of the district. The
parish is in the presbytery of Forfar and synod of
Angus and Mearns, and in the patronage of the Crown
and the family of Smythe ; the minister's stipend is
£228. 6. 6., with a manse, and glebe valued at £15 per
annum. The church was built upon the old foundation,
from about 3 feet above the ground, in the year 1722,
and accommodates 450 persons with sittings. The pa-
rochial school affords instruction in the usual branches ;
the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with fees producing
between £12 and £14. There is a library of miscella-
neous works. The most interesting relic of antiquity is
the ruin of the castle of Melgund, said to have been built
by Cardinal Beaton, and still indicating, by its extent
and strength, its former magnificence : on the sum-
mit of Turin hill, are the remains of an ancient fort
called Camp Castle, commanding most extensive views,
and supposed to have been raised as a watch-tower.
There are numerous tumuli and cairns, and several
obelisks or monumental stones, ornamented with va-
rious devices, one of the chief of which is in the church-
yard, exhibiting on one side a cross in bold relief covered
with flowers, and on the other numerous martial figures,
thought to be memorials of important military achiev-
ments in days of old. The title of Viscount Melgund is
borne by the Earl of Minto, proprietor of nearly half
of the parish.
ABERLOUR, a parish, in the county of Banff, 5
miles (W. N. W.) from Dufftown, on the road from Elgin
to Grantown ; containing, with the village of Charles-
town, 1352 inhabitants. This parish, formerly called
Skirdustan, signifying, in the Gaelic tongue, " the
division of Dustan," its tutelary saint, derived its pre-
sent name from its situation at the mouth of a noisy
burn, which discharges itself into the river Spey. It is
situated in the western part of the county, and extends
for nearly seven miles along the south bank of the Spey,
from the hill of Carron on the west, to the mouth of
the river Fiddich on the east. The surface is very
uneven ; towards the southern part is an almost un-
broken chain of mountains, consisting of the Blue Hill,
the East and West Conval hills, the mountain of Ben-
rinnes, and the broad hill of Cairnakay, with part of
the hill of Carron, on the border of the Spey, and sepa-
rated from Benrinnes by a narrow valley. A deep
and narrow pass called Glackharnis, of great length,
and of uniform breadth at the bottom, separates the
mountain of Benrinnes from the Conval hills, and is
27
remarkable for the great height and regularity of its
declivity on both sides. The mountain, as its name
implies, is precipitous in its ascent, and sharp on the
summit, and has an elevation of 2*56 feet above the
sea, and of 1876 feet from its base, being the highest in
the county for many miles around. From the top, are
seen the Grampian hills to the south, the interesting
valley and hills of Glenavon to the west, and to the
north the mountains of Ross, Sutherland, and Caith-
ness ; it embraces a fine view of the sea, for several
miles, along the coasts of Moray and Banffshire, and
forms a conspicuous landmark for mariners. The Con-
val hills are spherical and of similar form, and profusely
covered with heath ; and between these and the Ben-
rinnes, is a fine valley, the south part of which, consist-
ing of sloping land, including the district of Edinvillie,
is divided on the north-east, by a brook, from the lands
of Allachie, and on the north from the district of Ruth-
rie, by the burn of Aberlour. To the north-west of
Ruthrie, is the district of Kinnermony ; the lands of
Aberlour are watered by two rivulets, descending from
the Blue hill, which, uniting, form the burn of Allachoy,
which separates them from the district of Drumfurrich.
These several districts contain some good tracts of
holm land, and form the principal arable grounds of the
parish, of which, upon the whole, not more than one-
half is under cultivation. The soil, near the river, is a
rich deep loam, mixed with sand ; towards the hills, is a
deep clay, lying on a substratum of rough gravel, and
covered with a thin alluvial soil ; and towards the
centre of the parish, is a richer alluvial soil, resting on
a bed of granite. In the neighbourhood of Glenrinnes,
limestone is quarried for agricultural purposes, and, by
many of the farmers, burnt upon their own lands. The
principal crops are, barley, oats, wheat, and peas ; and
the barley produced here weighs more, per bushel, than
that of the heavier soils of the adjoining parishes. The
Morayshire breed of black-cattle is raised, and the
sheep are of the hardy black-faced kind ; several of the
farms are inclosed with fences of stone, and the farm-
buildings generally are substantial and commodious.
Alexander Grant, Esq., is the chief resident proprietor,
whose handsome seat of Aberlour is in the parish ; on
the estate, a column of the Tuscan order has lately been
erected. There are several flourishing plantations of
fir in the hilly districts ; and of elm and ash near
the river, the banks of which are, in some places, deco-
rated with birch-trees of very luxuriant growth.
The river Spey, from the rapidity of its current, and
the narrowness of its channel, frequently overflows its
banks, and damages the neighbouring lands. In 1829,
a very destructive flood occurred, in which the waters
rose to the height of nearly twenty feet above the ordi-
nary level, sweeping away the entire soil of several fields,
with all their crops, and leaving upon others a deposit
of sand and rough gravel, to the depth of several feet.
A cottage and offices were carried away ; and the dry
stone arches which formed the approach to the bridge of
Craig-Ellachie, were entirely destroyed, leaving only a
few yards of masonry on which the end of the arch rested.
This bridge, which consists of one metal arch, more
than 160 feet in span, abutting on a solid rock on the
north side of the river, and supported on the Aberlour
side by a strong pier of masonry, built on piles, was
erected in 1815, at an expense of £S000, of which one-
E 2
A B E R
A B E R
half was defrayed by government, and the other by
subscription. The rivers Spey and Fiddieh afford ex-
cellent salmon and trout ; the fishing season commences
in February, and closes in September, and the parish
also abounds with various kinds of game. On the burn
of Aberlour, about a mile above its influx into the Spey,
is a fine cascade called the Lynn of Ruthrie, in which
the water falls from a height of 30 feet, and, being
broken in its descent by a projecting platform of granite
rock, which is richly covered with birch-trees and various
shrubs, presents an interesting and highly picturesque
appearance. A large distillery was formerly carried on
at Aberlour, which afforded a market for grain to the
neighbouring farmers ; and fairs are held annually, in
the recently-erected village of Charlestown. The eccle-
siastical affairs of the parish are under the presbytery
of Aberlour and synod of Moray ; Lord Fife is pa-
tron, and the stipend of the incumbent is £287. 8. 2.
The church, a well-arranged structure, erected in 1812,
is situated to the north of Charlestown, at a distance of
about 300 yards from the ruins of the old church, near
the influx of the burn of Aberlour into the Spey ; Mr.
Grant has lately made an addition to the length of the
edifice, and erected a handsome tower. In the valley of
Glenrinnes is a missionary establishment, and a chapel
of ease has been erected, of which the minister has a
stipend of £60 per annum, royal bounty, with a manse,
glebe, and other accommodations provided by the heri-
tors. The parochial school affords instruction in the
Latin language, arithmetic, and the elementary mathe-
matics ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4|., with a
house and garden, and the fees average £40.
ABERLUTHNOTT, Kincardine.— See Marykirk.
ABERNETHY, a parish, in the counties of Inver-
ness and Elgin, 5 miles (S. W. by S.) from Grantown ;
containing, with Kincardine, 1S32 inhabitants, of whom
10S3 are in Abernethy proper. This parish, to which
that of Kincardine was annexed about the time of the
Reformation, derives its name from Aber, signifying in
Gaelic, in conjunction with Nethy, the "termination of
Nethy," which is descriptive of the situation of the
church, near the entrance of that river into the Spey :
Kincardine, or Kinie-chairdin, implies the " clan of
friends." The united parish, which is 15 miles long, and
from 10 to 12 broad, contains about 120,000 acres, of
which about 3000 are in tillage, 40,000 forest and plan-
tation, and 77,000 uncultivated. It extends from the
borders of Cromdale to Rothiemurchus, and the lower
end of it falls within the county of Inverness ; it is
bounded on the west, throughout its entire length, by
the river Spey. The surface is mountainous and woody,
interspersed with corn-fields ; the only rivers are the
Spey and the Nethy, the latter of which, in dry weather,
is merely a brook, but, when swollen, is of sufficient size
to allow of the passage of floats of timber into the Spey.
There are several lakes, also, in Kincardine, the chief
whereof is the oval basin in Glenmore forest, which is
nearly 2 miles in diameter. The soil in some parts is
deep raith, but frequently thin and dry, and in some
places wet and cold ; wood is abundant, and about
7000 acres on one estate are under fir of natural growth.
Some farms exhibit the appearance of superior husban-
dry, having substantial and commodious buildings, with
implements of the best kind; and improvements have
been carried on for a considerable time, to the advance
28
of which, the plentiful supply of lime in the parish, and
of native fuel for preparing it, has greatly contributed :
every farmer, however small his ground, has a lime-kiln
in use. Parallel to the river Spey, extends a range of moun-
tains, a branch of the Grampians, which exhibits a great
variety of rock ; commencing with the well-known
Cairnegorm, which is its southern extremity, granite
stretches to the north, for several miles ; then appears
primary limestone, and this is succeeded by trap and
micaceous schist.
A regular " manufacture" of timber has been car-
ried on in the Abernethy district, for more than 60
years. The Duke of Gordon, in 1784, sold his fir-woods
of Glenmore, in the barony of Kincardine, for £10,000
sterling, to an English company, who exhausted them ;
and from the forest of Abernethy, there are still for-
warded yearly, by large rafts in the river Spey, great
quantities of timber, to Garmouth or Speymouth, of
which much has been formed into vessels of large bur-
then, at the former place, and considerable quantities
sent to the royal dockyards in England. The trade was
immense during the war, but is now considerably dimi-
nished, although still employing a large number of the
population. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the
presbytery of Abernethy and synod of Moray ; the Earl
of Seafield is patron, and the stipend of the minister is
£234. 2. 1., with a glebe of the annual value of £7.
The church in the district of Abernethy, a commodious
structure, with seats for 600 persons, was erected eighty
years since ; and that of Kincardine, a well-built and
finished edifice, 7 miles distant from the manse, con-
taining about 330 sittings, in J 804. There is a parochial
school, in which Latin, mathematics, and the usual
branches of education are taught, and of which the
master has a salary of £25. 13., with £22 fees, &c. and
a house ; and a Gaelic school at Kincardine is chiefly
supported by £17 a year from the Society for Propaga-
ting Christian Knowledge. Several ancient remains are
to be seen, particularly of Druidical circles ; and on
rising ground, near the church, is an old building, of
which, however, no satisfactory account has ever been
afforded. The topaz called cairngorm is found in con-
siderable numbers in the mountain of that name ; and
at the end of Lochaven is an interesting natural curi-
osity, in the form of a cave, commonly called Chlach-
dhian, or " the sheltering stone," and which is sur-
rounded by vast mountains. It is sufficient to contain a
number of persons, and people take shelter in it fre-
quently, for security from rain and wind, after hunting
or fishing, and sometimes being driven by necessity.
ABERNETHY, a burgh and parish, partly in the
district of Cupar, county of Fife, but chiefly in the
county of Perth, 3 miles (W. S. W.) from Newburgh ;
containing, with the village of Aberdargie, 1920 inha-.
bitauts, of whom 827 are in the town of Abernethy.
This place, originally called Abernethyn, a word signi-
fying " the town upon the Nethy," is supposed, by some,
to have derived its name from the small stream flowing
through the centre of the parish, and denominated Nethy
from the old British term neith, or nid, implying a " turn-
ing" or '- whirling stream." But others are of opinion
that the appellation has been received from Nectan or
Nethan, one of the Pictish kings, who founded the place,
and of whose kingdom it was the capital. The most
ancient and credible of the Scottish historians agree in
ABER
ABER
representing this locality as the metropolis of the
Pictish nation, both in civil and religious matters ; but
the particulars relating to the erection of the church
are variously described. The Pictish Chronicle states
the edifice to have been raised by Nethan, or Nectan I.,
about the year 456, as a sacrifice offered to God
and St. Bridget, for the recovery of his kingdom ; and
Fordun asserts, that St. Patrick himself introduced St.
Bridget and her nine nuns into the religious establish-
ment of Abernethy. Others, however, are of opinion,
that the church was founded and endowed towards the
close of the 6th century, by King Garnard M'Dourmach,
or in the beginning of the 7th century, by Nethan II.,
his immediate successor. The church, shortly after-
wards, was made the head of an episcopal see, and here
was the residence of the metropolitan of the Pictish
kingdom, and probably of all Scotland, until the Picts
were subdued by one of the Kenneths, and both the
see, and the residence of the bishop, were transferred to
St. Andrew's, the head of which was afterwards acknow-
ledged as the national bishop. Abernethy was subse-
quently comprehended in the bishopric of Dunblane,
founded in the 12th century, by King David I., out of
the national bishopric of St. Andrew's. After the re-
moval of the see from this place, the church became
collegiate, and was in the possession of the Culdees, of
whom but little is known with certainty, except that
this parish was their principal seat, and that here they
had a university for the education of youth, in which
was taught the whole of the sciences, as far as they
were then known. In the 12th century, by a charter of
King William the Lion and of Lawrence de Abernethy,
the church and advowson of Abernethy, with its perti-
nents, were conveyed to the abbey of Arbroath ; and
about the year 1240, the altarage of the church, with
certain lands, was given to the Bishop of Dunblane,
who, in return, among other things, engaged to provide
for the service of the church, to enrol it among his pre-
bendal institutions, and to instal the abbot of Arbroath,
as a prebendary or canon, with a manse and privileges
similar to those of the other canons. The ancient mo-
nastery, in 12J3, became a priory of canons regular, and
a cell of Inchaffray ; all the Culdee institutions yielded
to the increasing power of the Romish church, and this
priory seems to have been afterwards converted into a
provostry or college of secular priests, and the church,
with a provost, was a collegiate establishment. The
church, at the Reformation, was valued at £273 per
annum, and was afterwards a parsonage.
The civil occupancy of the principal lands appears to
have taken place at an early period ; in the 12th century,
Orme, the son of Hugh, received the lands of Abernethy,
from King William the Lion, and from them both
himself and his posterity took their name. Alexander
de Abernethy, a descendant, swore fealty to Edward I.
in 1292, and was appointed by Edward II., in 1310,
warden of the counties between the Forth and the
Grampians, but his lands are supposed to have been
forfeited after the battle of Bannockburn, or to have
been continued in the family only by the marriage of his
daughters, the eldest of whom, Margaret, was united to
John Stewart, Earl of Angus, who thus obtained the
lordship of Abernethy, and whose grand-daughter,
Margaret Stewart, married William, Earl of Douglas.
This family of Douglas, during the earlier periods of
29
their history, were numerous and powerful, and are sup-
posed to have resided near the house of Carpow ; and
many of the most illustrious branches of the earls of
Angus have been interred in this spot. It was at Aber-
nethy that Malcolm Canmore did homage to William
the Conqueror, according to the account of Fordun,
Winton, and others , but so many different opinions
exist on the point as to render it altogether doubtful.
The town, which is of great antiquity, and, by ruins
discovered eastward of it, is supposed to have been once
much more extensive, is situated near the confluence of
the Tay and Earn rivers, on the south-eastern border of
the county, and adjoining Fifeshire in that direction, in
which county a small portion of it stands. The lands
in the vicinity, and throughout the greater part of the
parish, are interesting and beautiful, consisting of large
tracts, highly cultivated, forming, on the north, a por-
tion of the rich vale of Strathearn, enlivened by the
rivers ; on the south, the lands are, for the most part,
hilly, occupying about two-thirds of the whole area, and
belonging to the picturesque range of the Ochils. About.
a mile to the east, is the mansion of Carpow, a neat
modern structure ; a little beyond it, is a small stream
which separates Abernethy from the parish ofNewburgh,
in Fifeshire, and to the west is the mansion called Ayton
House, skirted by the Farg rivulet, which joins the
Earn at Colfargie, after flowing through the romantic
scenery of Glenfarg. Not far from this, in the south-
western district, situated three-quarters of a mile from
the town, is Castle Law, a steep grassy elevation, 600
feet high, the summit of which is the seat of a vitrified
fort. It commands a beautiful view of Strathearn and
the carse of Gowrie, with the interjacent Tay, where
there is an island named Mugdrum, belongiug to this
parish, a mile in length, comprehending 35 acres of the
richest arable land, and which is thronged, in autumn
and winter, with various kinds of water-fowl, and some-
times is visited by very fine wild swans.
The town contains a library, but has no other insti-
tutions of interest ; a large portion of the inhabitants,
both male and female, as well as those residing in the
villages of Aberdargie and Glenfoot, in the parish, are
employed in weaving linen-yarn, for the manufacturers
of Newburgh. The trade consists chiefly in the sale of
grain and potatoes, the former being sent to the weekly
market of Newburgh, and the potatoes taken to Ferry-
field, on the estate of Carpow, where there is a stone
pier, and thence conveyed to the London market. The
Earl of Wemyss has fishings on the Earn, and there are
others on the Earn and Tay, belonging to the estate of
Carpow. A brick and tile work is in operation ; and a
bleachfield has been formed at Clunie, in the eastern
district, which has, to some extent, caused an increase
in the population. The turnpike-road from Perth to
Edinburgh passes through the parish ; several good
roads, also, are kept in repair by statute labour, one of
which leads from Perth to Cupar, in which line a new-
bridge was erected over the Farg, a few years since ;
and there are two ferries, the one at Cary, and the other
atFerryfield. Cattle-fairs are held on the 12th February,
the fourth Wednesday in May, and the second Thurs-
day in November ; they are, however, in a very low-
state. Abernethy is a burgh of barony, held under
Lord Douglas, and had a charter from Archibald, Earl of
Angus, Lord of Abernethy, dated 23rd August, 1476,
A B E R
ABER
in which mention is made of a royal charter of erection,
in his favour, by King James II. By a charter of Wil-
liam, Earl of Angus, dated 29th November, 1628, the
privileges were confirmed, and, among others, the right
of fairs and markets, the customs of which were to be
applied to the use of the burgh, except they amounted
to more than 100 merks Scots yearly, when the surplus
was to be accounted for to the superior. The practice
of the burgh has fixed the number of bailies at two, and
the councillors at fifteen, who appoint their succes-
sors, and by right of charter, the burgesses elect
their magistrates ; the fee for admission as a burgess,
to a stranger, is 10s. 6rf., and to the son of a burgess,
half that sum. The bailies formerly exercised both a
civil and criminal jurisdiction, to a small extent, but
their authority has been lately challenged ; they still,
however, hold courts for petty offences, from which
there is no appeal but to the court of justiciary or
session.
The parish comprises about 7030 acres, of which
2568 acres are comprehended in the northern division,
forming the lowest part of the vale of Strathearn, and
the remainder consists of a portion of the Ochil hills ;
the soil of the former is deep rich clay, black earth, and
sand, and that of the latter, tilly, and resting on whin-
stone, among which numerous valuable pebbles have, at
different times, been found. All kinds of grain and
green crops are raised, of the first quality, on the lower
portion, where the lands are cultivated to the highest
degree ; the hilly part contains 950 acres of permanent
pasture, S50 in plantations, and 2660 arable, the last
producing oats, barley, turnips, potatoes, &c, and the
whole farming of the parish is of the most approved
kind. The rocks between the Tay and the Ochils con-
sist principally of the old red sandstone, and the sub-
strata of the Ochils comprise chiefly the clinkstone,
amygdaloid, porphyry, and claystone varieties of the
trap formation. Gneiss, primitive trap, and quartz are
found in boulders, especially on the hills, and quarries
are in operation of the greenstone and clinkstone rocks,
supplying a material for roads and coarse buildings.
Zeolites of great beauty are found in Glenfarg, and agates,
jaspers, &c, in many places ; limestone, also, exists in
Auchtermuchty, and in the Glenfarg quarry have been
found scales of the ichthyolites.
The parish is in the presbytery of Perth and synod
of Perth and Stirling, and in the gift of the Earl of
Mansfield ; the minister's stipend is £256. 5. 7., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £12 per annum. The
church, built in 1802, is a plain but commodious edifice,
containing 600 sittings. There are places of worship be-
longing to the Free Church and United Associate Synod,
and another at Aberdargie connected with the Relief
Church. The parochial school affords instruction in
the usual branches ; the master has the maximum
salary, and some fees, together with about £13. 13.,
chiefly arising from a bequest by Lord Stormont, of
£200, in 1748, and another producing £1. 13., for teach-
ing. On the top of a hill behind Pitlour, are the re-
mains of an ancient fort called the " Roman camp,"
supposed, by some antiquaries, to have been occupied
by the army of that nation before the great battle with
Galgacus ; and in the south-western extremity of the
parish, in Fifeshire, is the ruin of Balvaird Castle, situ-
ated among the Ochils, the property of the Earl of
30
Mansfield and his ancestors, since the time of Robert
II., and which conferred a title on Andrew Murray,
of Balvaird, who was settled minister of Abdie in 1618,
knighted in 1633, and created Lord Balvaird in 1641.
Many Roman antiquities have been discovered, leading
to the supposition that this people had an important
military station here, and a Roman road is said formerly
to have existed, leading to Ardoch, and another to
Perth ; but the most interesting relic of former times,
and that which has excited the greatest interest, is a
round tower, to which there is nothing similar in Scot-
land, except at Brechin, and the origin of which is alto-
gether involved in obscurity. It stands at the entrance
of the church, near the site containing the old college
and ecclesiastical establishment, and also the ancient
church taken down in 1802 ; and contains a clock, and
an excellent bell which has been used, from time imme-
morial, for ecclesiastical purposes, and, to a certain ex-
tent, by the burgh, for civil purposes. The building is
74 feet high, 48 feet round outwardly at the base, and
consists of 64 courses of hewn freestone, diminishing a
little towards the summit, where there are four windows,
equidistant, facing the four quarters of heaven, each
5 feet 9 inches high, and 2 feet 2 inches wide. The
walls, at the bottom, are 3| feet thick, and opposite to
the north is a door, 8 feet inheight, and 3 feet wide, arched
overhead ; the building is flat at the top, having a large
projecting moulding for the uppermost course of stones,
and, being entirely hollow, and without staircase, is
ascended by scaling ladders attached to wooden plat-
forms. The Rev. John Brown, for 36 years minister
of the Associate Burgher congregation at Haddington,
and author of the Self-interpreting Bible, and other
theological works, was born at Carpow, in 1722.
ABERNYTE, a parish, in the county of Perth, 10
miles (W.) from Dundee ; containing 280 inhabitants.
The name of this place is of Gaelic origin, referring to
the situation of the principal village, near the confluence
of two rivulets, one of which is supposed to have ob-
tained the appellation of Nyte. Very little is known
concerning the transactions that anciently occurred
here ; but a battle is said to have been fought in the
parish, between two powerful families, the Grays of
Fowlis, and the Boyds of Pitkindie, in which the latter
were victorious ; and upon the top of a hill called
Glenny-law, are two cairns, thought to have been raised
in consequence of this engagement. The parish, inclu-
ding Glenbran, annexed to it quoad sacra, is about three
miles in extreme length, and two in breadth, and con-
tains about 1703 acres under cultivation, 172 in good
pasture, and about 341 in plantations, consisting chiefly
of larch and Scotch fir ; it is bounded on the north by
the Sidlaw hills. The district lies among those hills
that rise gradually from the Carse of Gowrie to the top
of the ridge of Dunsinnan, the highest point of which
in this parish, called King's Seat, is 1050 feet above the
sea. The most cultivated part of the parish is situated
300 feet above the level of the Tay, and about three
miles in a direct line from that river. The numerous
hills and vales in the locality, impart to the scenery a
picturesque character, and fine prospects may be had
from several of the heights ; there are many rivulets
among the valleys, and at the head of a romantic dell
is a beautiful cascade, the waters of which are thrown
from a perpendicular height of almost forty feet.
A B O Y
A BO Y
In the lower parts, the arable land is, in general, of a
light fertile soil, lying frequently on gravel, and some-
times on clay, or on a mixture of both ; in some parts,
the earth runs to a considerable depth. The portions
of the higher grounds which are not planted, are covered
with coarse grass or heath. All the usual white and
green crops are produced, of good quality ; the best
system of agriculture is followed, and great advantages
are said to have resulted from the consolidation of small
farms. The use of bone-dust for turnip husbandry, and
the practice of turning the sheep to eat off the turnips,
have proved of much benefit ; the implements of hus-
bandry are good, and the farm-houses and buildings
have mostly been placed upon an excellent footing ; but
the fences, which form an exception to the generally
improved appearance of the parish, are deficient in ex-
tent, and sometimes in very bad order. The rocks are
sandstone, with amygdaloid containing agates or pebbles.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the presbytery
of Dundee, in the synod of Angus and Mearns ; patron,
the Crown ; there is a commodious manse, with a glebe
of nearly 7 arable acres, and 3 of pasture, and a large
garden ; and the stipend is nominally £150, but has
lately fallen short of this sum. The church, built in
1*36, and recently repaired, is situated at the lowest
extremity of the parish. A tabernacle was built about
forty-five years since, by Mr. Haldane, for missionaries,
and is now occupied by a congregation of Burghers ;
and there is a parochial school, in which instruction is
given in every branch of education, and of which the
master has the maximum salary, with about £97 fees.
Several Druidical circles yet remain ; and in the parish
is also the " Long Man's Grave," a noted spot at. the
road-side, north-east of Dunsinnan Hill, of which the
traditionary account states that one, guilty either of
suicide or murder, was buried there.
ABERTARFF. — See Boleskine and Abertarff.
ABINGTON, a village, in the parish of Crawford-
John, Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 3 miles
(N. by W.) from Crawford ; containing 135 inhabitants.
It is situated on the road between Glasgow and Carlisle ;
and near it are vestiges of gold-mines, said to have been
explored in the reign of James VI., and with some suc-
cess. A. school here is aided by a heritor, with £6 per
annum.
ABOYNE and GLENTANNER, a parish, in the
district of Kincardine O'Neil, county of Aberdeen,
5 miles (W. by S.) from Kincardine O'Neil ; containing,
with the burgh of barony of Charlestown, 113S inhabit-
ants. The Gaelic words, A, signifying a " ford," and
boinne or buinne, a " thin rippling water," have origi-
nated the appellation of the first of these places, on
account of its proximity to a ford on the Dee ; and the
name Glentanner is said to be compounded of the Gaelic
terms Glean-tan-ar, meaning " the glen of scanty arable
land." The date of union is uncertain ; but, previously
to 1763, there was a church in each place, the two being
served by one parochial minister. Glentanner, before the
union, formed a separate chapelry, and Aboyne was then
united to Tullich, an intermediate chapel being situated
at Braeroddach, equally distant from the churches of
Aboyne and Tullich. On the south bank of the Dee,
and surrounded by a burial-ground, the remains still
exist of the old church of Glentanner, called, on ac-
count of its heather thatch, the " black chapel of the
31
moor." The portion of Aboyne on the north side of
the Dee was an important barony, the burgh of which,
now named Charlestown, formerly Bunty, is near Aboyne
Castle ; but the tolbooth was destroyed at the close of
the last century, and all traces of the pot and gallows
have nearly disappeared. The Knights Templars once
had possessions here, given to them by the Bissets ;
from that body they passed to the Frasers, of Cowie,
and from them to Lord Keith, whose daughter, Eli-
zabeth, having married Sir John Gordon, of Huntly,
carried the lands and castle to the Gordons, with whom
they have remained. The main outline of the parish
is irregular, rendering the statement of an accurate
measurement difficult, besides which, there is a detached
portion, containing about sixty persons, situated on the
left bank of the Feugh, about nine miles south-east
from the church, and separated by the parish of Birse.
The length from east to west, between extreme points,
is supposed to be thirteen miles, and the breadth 19,
miles, comprising 37,000 acres, of which a small part is
arable, and the remainder moorland, natural pastures,
and wood. This is a mountainous and wood}' district,
watered by numerous rivulets, among which are the
Tanner, the Feugh, the burn of Dinnet, and that of
Dess, beautifully winding in different directions, but all
in subordination to the stately and majestic Dee, which
here pursues its course through the middle of the parish,
Aboyne lying chiefly on the northern, and Glentanner
on the southern, bank. The district is bounded on all
sides either by rivers or mountains, and is skirted on
the west, south, and east, by ranges of the Grampians.
The climate is serene ; during heavy falls of snow and
the blowing of the keener winds, it is intensely cold,
but it is considered salubrious, particularly about the
banks of the Dee, and near the Tanner. Invalids fre-
quently resort hither in summer, to enjoy a picturesque
and romantic seclusion, and to drink the goats' whey
for which the place is celebrated ; and the heath-clad
hills and Alpine forests, ascended by steep and craggy
slopes, afford exercise for the more hardy, who, having
reached the summits, are amply repaid for their labour
by the fine views around them, embracing Aberdeen,
Montrose, and many other objects of commanding in-
terest.
The soil near the rivers is a thin alluvial deposit,
formed, in consequence of the rapidity of the currents,
chiefly of sand and gravel; but, advancing towards the
hills, the earth is stronger, and of better quality, con-
sisting of a black or clayey till : extensive tracts of peat-
moss are found on the higher grounds, and, to a large
extent, supply the inhabitants with fuel. The only-
grain raised is oats and bear ; the farms vary much in
size, some being mere crofts, and others more than 100
arable acres in extent, but the latter are few in number,
and the average dimensions are from twenty to fifty
acres. Between 5000 and 6000 sheep, chiefly of the
Linton breed, are pastured upon the hills and moor-
lands ; and the black cattle, to the rearing of which
much attention is paid, comprise the Aberdeenshire horned
and the Buchan polled breeds, crossed, not unfrequently,
with the short-horned. The rocks mostly consist of
granite, existing in various forms, according to the pro-
portions of its constituent parts ; gneiss is also common,
and ironstone, limestone, topaz, crystallized quartz, and
fullers'-earth are found. About 4500 acres of natural
ACRE
AILS
fir, a remnant of the ancient Caledonian forest, still re-
main in Glentanner ; and on the estate of Balnacraig,
where stand the old mansion-house of the same name,
and the house of Carlogie, about 1400 acres are covered
with Scotch fir, in a thriving state, like most of the
other wood in the parish. There are also 2144 acres of
plantations near Aboyne Castle, the ancient seat of the
earls of Aboyne, consisting chiefly of Scotch fir, with
many sprinklings of larch, oak, ash, beech, elm, and
other varieties. The castle, the grounds of which are
ornamented with an artificial lake of thirty-two acres,
interspersed with wooded islets, was partly rebuilt in
1671, by Charles, first Earl of Aboyne, and the east
wing was added in 1801, by his great-great-grandson, the
Marquess of Huntly ; the mansion is surrounded with
beautifully-wooded hills, commanding extensive and
interesting views.
The village of Charlestown has a daily mail to Aber-
deen, the turnpike-road from that city terminating here,
though the communication is continued by good com-
mutation roads, on each side of the Dee, to Ballater and
Braemar ; there are also commutation roads leading
hence in the direction of Tarland and other places,
and the parliamentary road to Alford commences here.
Numerous bridges cross the different streams ; and at
Aboyne, nearly opposite the church, is an elegant sus-
pension bridge, erected in 1831, by the Earl of Aboyne,
in place of a former one built in 1828, and swept away
by the great flood, in August in the following year.
The trade in the sale of grain and cattle is principally
carried on with Aberdeen ; and besides the cattle sold
for this city, or forwarded by the steamers to the London
market, large numbers, in a lean state, are sent to the
south of Scotland, or to England. Fairs are held at
Candlemas, Michaelmas, Hallowmas, and in June and
July, on a green between the village of Charlestown and
the church. The parish is in the presbytery of Kin-
cardine O'Neil and synod of Aberdeen, and in the pa-
tronage of the Marquess of Huntly. The minister's
stipend is about £150, part of which is received from
the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe of 20 acres of
very poor land, assigned in lieu of the old glebes of the
two parishes, when a central church was built for the
united parish, in 1*63 : the present edifice, containing
628 sittings, is very handsome, and was erected in 1842,
at an expense, exclusive of carriage, of £900. The pa-
rochial school affords instruction in the usual branches ;
the master has a salary of £26, with £28 in fees, and a
portion of Dick's bequest. The antiquities comprise
Picts' houses, cairns, tumuli, and the remains of en-
campments, of the history of which nothing is known.
Aboyne gives the inferior title of Earl to the Marquess
of Huntlv.
ACHARACLE.— See Aharacle.
ACHARN, a village, in the parish of Kenmore,
county of Perth ; containing 42 inhabitants. It is a
small place, of which the residents are entirely engaged
in agriculture. The Acharn burn, a feeder of Loch Tay,
runs through the eastern portion of the parish.
ACKERGILL, a village, in the parish of Wick, and
county of Caithness. It was anciently called Aikrigill,
and lies on the shore of Sinclair bay, and on the road
between Staxigo and Keiss. The lands were formerly a
possession of the Keiths, earls marischal, whose resi-
dence was Ackergill Tower, a spacious rectangular strue-
32
ture, of which the walls, thirteen feet in thickness, and
crowned with battlements, are eighty-two feet in height ;
it is in a state of entire preservation, and, from its an-
tiquity, has a venerable and impressive aspect.
ADAMSROW, a village, in the parish of Newton,
county of Edinburgh ; containing 249 inhabitants.
AFTON-BRIDGEND, a village, in the parish of New
Cumnock, district of Kyle, county of Ayr ; contain-
ing 261 inhabitants. It is situated on the banks of the
Afton, a small stream tributary to the river Nith, into
which, flowing northward through Glen- Afton, it merges
near New Cumnock, and gives name to a barony,
wherein is a lead-mine. The parochial church is be-
tween the villages of Afton-Bridgend and New Cum-
nock.
AHARACLE, or Acharacle, late a quoad sacra pa-
rish, in the parish of Ardnamurchan, partly in the
district and county of Argyll, and partly in county
Inverness; containing 2016 inhabitants. It is about
twenty-four miles in its greatest length, and ten inbreadth,
and is formed, for the most part, of the eastern portion
of Ardnamurchan, and includes the islands of Shona-
veg, Portavata, and Shona. The ecclesiastical affairs are
under the superintendence of the presbytery of Mull
and synod of Argyll ; the stipend of the minister is
£120, subject to a deduction for communion elements,
and there is a manse, with a glebe valued at £2. 10. The
church, which stands at the west end of Lochshiel, and
about four miles distant from the nearest boundary of
the district, the Western Ocean, was built in 1829, and
contains 2/0 sittings : another place of worship connected
with the Establishment, is distant from the parochial
church about eleven miles. A great portion of the
population are Roman Catholics.
AIGASH ISLE, in the parish of Kiltarlity, county
of Inverness. It is formed by a division into two
branches of the river Beauly, and is of an oval figure,
and about a mile and a half in circumference, com-
prising an area of fifty acres. It is chiefly whinstone,
and rises, in a slope, about a hundred feet above the
level of the water ; and being covered with natural oak,
birch, alder, and other trees, it presents, with the sur-
rounding rocks, a beautiful and picturesque appear-
ance. The islet communicates with the main land by
a bridge.
AILSA, an island belonging to the parish of Dailly,
in the district of Carrick, county of Ayr. This island
lies in the Frith of Clyde, between the shores of Ayr-
shire and Cantyre, from the former of which it is dis-
tant eight miles ; it is a rugged rock, about two miles
in circumference at its base, rising precipitously from
the sea, to an elevation of 1 100 feet, and accessible only
on the north-east side, where a small beach has been
constructed. The rock is basaltic, and in several parts
assumes the columnar formation : at a considerable
elevation, are the remains of ancient buildings, sup-
posed to have been originally a castle, with a chapel. A
small portion of its surface affords a scanty pasturage ;
but it is frequented only by various aquatic birds, of
which the most numerous are the solan geese ; and the
sole income arising from the island, is derived from the
sale of feathers, for the collection of which, during the
season, a person resides on the spot. It was in
contemplation, some time since, to make this island a
fishing station, for the supply of Glasgow and Liverpool
AIRD
A I R L
by the numerous steamers which pass this way, and
the erection of some buildings for that purpose was
commenced, but the idea was subsequently abandoned.
The island gives the British titles of Marquess and
Baron to the family of Kennedy, who are the owners of
the property.
AIRD, a village, in the parish of Inch, county of
Wigton ; containing 18 inhabitants. It is situated
near the head of Loch Ryan bay, about a mile eastward
of Stranraer, and the same distance south-west of the
parochial church.
AIRDRIE, a burgh and market-town, in the parish
of New, or East Monkland, Middle ward of the
county of Lanark, 32| miles (W. by S.) from Edin-
burgh ; containing 12,418 inhabitants, and comprising
the late quoad sacra parishes of High Church, and East,
South, and West Airdrie, in which are respectively
1983, 2556, 4666, and 3213 persons. This place, which
is comparatively of recent origin, is advantageously
situated on the road from Glasgow to Edinburgh, and
appears to have been indebted for its rise to the nume-
rous mines of coal and ironstone with which the
parish and adjoining district abound, and which,
within the last half century, have been wrought with
increased assiduity and profit. Its situation within a
moderate distance of the capital and other principal
towns, with which it has facility of intercourse, by
means of the Monkland canal, and good turnpike-roads,
has rendered it important as a place of trade, and as the
residence of numerous persons engaged in collieries and
mines ; and it is rapidly increasing in population and
prosperity. The town is regularly built ; the houses are
of neat appearance, and the streets are well paved,
lighted with gas, and watched, under the provisions of
an act of 1 and 2 Geo. IV. A theatre, likewise, is sup-
ported by the inhabitants. The principal trade carried
on in the town, is that of weaving, in which many
persons are employed ; and a large cotton factory has
been recently established, which affords constant occu-
pation to a large number, in spinning, carding, and other
branches of the manufacture. There are a tan-work,
brewery, and extensive distillery. The Monkland canal,
passing by the town, affords ready communication with
Glasgow, to which place coal is likewise forwarded by
the Ballochney railroad, which joins those of Kirkin-
tilloch and Garnkirk ; and great quantities of coal and
mineral produce are also conveyed to the Clyde and
Forth canal, whence they are forwarded, eastward to
Edinburgh, and westward to Greenock. The market,
which is well supplied, and numerously attended, is on
Thursday ; and fairs, chiefly for cattle, are held generally
about the end of May and the middle of November.
The town was erected into a burgh of barony by act
of the 1st and 2nd of Geo. IV., by which the govern-
ment was vested in a provost, three bailies, a treasurer,
and seven councillors, assisted by a town-clerk and
other officers. The provost and bailies are elected from
the council, by a majority of the burgesses and other
inhabitants possessing the elective franchise ; the for-
mer, with two of the bailies, annually, the third bailie
retaining office for two years. The town-clerk is chosen
annually, by the proprietor of the Rochsolloch estate,
but is subject to the controul of the magistrates and
council ; and the provost and bailies are justices of the
peace within the burgh, in which, however, the county
Vol. I.— 33
magistrates have concurrent jurisdiction. The bailies
hold courts monthly, for the recovery of debts under
40s. The burgh unites with those of Lanark, Hamilton,
Falkirk, and Linlithgow, in returning one member to
the imperial parliament ; the right of election is vested
in the resident burgesses and £10 householders, and
the provost is the returning officer. The town-hall, re-
cently erected, is a neat edifice, comprising also a police-
office, and a small prison for the temporary confinement
of offenders previously to their committal by the county
magistrates. There is also a public building called the
Masons' Hall, which is connected with the trade of the
town. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the controul
of the presbytery of Hamilton and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr : the parochial church of East Airdrie, which
contains 631 sittings, was erected, as a chapel of ease, in
1/97; and a new church for West Airdrie, having 1200
sittings, was built by subscription, in 1835, at a cost of
£23/0. The stipend of the minister of the former is
£120, derived solely from seat-rents ; and that of the
minister of the latter, £105, derived from seat-rents
and collections. There are also two places of worship
for South Airdrie and High Church, a town school, and
meeting-houses for members of the Free Church, Inde-
pendents, Roman Catholics, the United Secession, and
other congregations.
AIRLIE, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 4 miles
(W. S. W.) from Kirriemuir ; containing 868 inhabit-
ants. The name of this place, written in ancient records
Errolly, Erolly, Irolly, and Airlie, is altogether of un-
certain derivation, but is supposed, by some, to come
from the Gaelic term Aird, signifying the " extremity
of a ridge," which description is applicable to the loca-
lity of Airlie Castle. The parish is situated at the west-
ern extremity of the county, bordering on Perthshire,
and measures, in extreme length, 6 miles, from east to
west ; and the breadth varies from ^ a mile to 4 miles ;
the whole comprising S600 acres, of which 6848 are
cultivated, 1365 under wood, and 3S/ in pasture, waste,
&c. The southern part of the district lies in the vale of
Strathmore, from which the land rises towards the
north, in a succession of undulated ridges, forming a
portion of the braes of Angus, and the southern Gram-
pians. In this direction, the Isla pours its waters
through a deep rocky gorge, out of the higher into the
lower country; and the ravine, separcting at Airlie
Castle into two channels, makes courses, respectively,
for the Isla and Melgum streams. The scenery about
this spot is highly picturesque, and is, to a great extent,
indebted for its attractions to the romantic Den of
Airlie, extending for above a mile from the confluence
of the two streams. The pellucid stream of the Isla,
sweeping in some places over a rocky channel, pursues
its winding course among the thickly-wooded and pre-
cipitous braes ; and the pleasing landscape in this part
is completed by the interesting feature of the Kirktown,
situated about \\ mile south-east from the castle, and
less than a mile east of the river. All the streams are
famed for their abundance of fine trout, and are the
favourite resorts of anglers ; the Isla and Melgum are
also much visited by salmon. In the Dean is found the
fresh-water muscle, often mistaken for the pearl oyster,
common in the South Esk, and some of the rivers are
frequented by numerous migratory birds, some of them
being of very rare species.
F
AIRL
A I R T
The soil runs through the several varieties of brown
and black loam ; in the better portion of the district,
and in the northern part, it is a thin and barren earth,
on a tilly subsoil, requiring much furrow-draining and
deep ploughing to render it profitable. There are also
many gravelly, sandy, and clayey admixtures, in differ-
ent places, some of which, if allowed to remain long in
grass, become overspread with broom ; but, though
much of the land is either very poor or only of moderate
fertility, there are some rich tracts, particularly a long
and broad strip of deep alluvial loam, along the whole
course of the Dean river. The agriculture of the parish
has been greatly improved since the beginning of the
present century, and deep and extensive drains have
been constructed ; furrow-draining, by tiles and stones,
has been practised, and shell-marl is much used as
manure. The number of sheep and cattle, and the
superiority of the breeds, furnish a striking contrast to
the state of the district, in these respects, about thirty
years since, most of the thinner soils being now covered
with flocks of native black-faced sheep, besides regular
stocks of Leicesters, in other parts ; and in addition to
the Angus, a very fine description of cattle is seen on
several of the larger farms, which is often crossed with
the Teeswater. Since the introduction of steam naviga-
tion, large quantities have been sent to London, in
addition to those sold at Edinburgh and Glasgow, and
they obtain the highest prices.
The strata consist entirely of the old red sandstone,
with the exception of a trap-dike crossing the channel
of the Isla, near Airlie Castle. The upper beds are in
general too friable for use, crumbling almost as soon as
they are exposed to the air, but those at a considerable
depth are of tenacious consistence, and, having several
varieties of fine and coarse grain, are capable of being
applied to many purposes. Most of the rocks are over-
laid with debris of different depths, and above are
usually beds of sand and gravel ; at Baikie is a bed
of marl, once covering 40 acres, and six or seven yards
deep, but which has been much exhausted for agricul-
tural use, and there are also extensive mosses, in which
horns of deer and oxen have been found. Many plan-
tations have been formed in the present century, com-
prising the usual trees ; but they are, to a great extent,
in a pining state, especially the larch, very many of
which have been entirely destroyed by blight and can-
ker. Airlie Castle, a plain modern residence, situated
at the north-western point of the parish, on a lofty
precipice, is the property of the family of Ogilvy, who
became connected with the parish in 1458, when Sir
John Ogilvy, of Lintrathen, received a grant of the
barony from King James II. One side of the ancient
castle only remains, the rest having been burnt down by
the Earl of Argyll, in the year 1640, during the absence
of the Earl of Airlie, a zealous supporter of the royal
cause, which event is celebrated in the popular ballad
entitled " Bonnie house of Airlie." Lindertis House is
a handsome edifice, of recent date, beautifully situated
on the northern slope of Strathmore, and commanding
fine views of an extensive range of country. A consi-
derable number of the inhabitants of the parish are
engaged in weaving coarse linens for Dundee houses ;
several public roads, leading to most of the great tho-
roughfares, pass through the place, and the railway
from Newtyle to Glammis passes along the southern
34
border. The parish is in the presbytery of Meigle and
synod of Angus and Mearns, and in the patronage of the
Earl of Strathmore ; the minister's stipend is £219. 1. 5.,
with a manse, and a glebe of 9 acres valued at £12 per
annum. The church is a very neat edifice, rebuilt in
1781, and repaired in 1844. A Free Church place of
worship has been recently erected. The parochial school-
master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with a house, and £13
fees. Near Cardean, are the remains of a Roman camp,
and also of the great Roman road which ran from this
spot, along the valley of Strathmore.
AIRNTULLY, or Arntully, a village, in the pa-
rish of Kinclaven, county of Perth, 8 miles (N.) from
Perth ; containing 159 inhabitants. This place, of
which the houses are scattered in every direction, was
of greater extent than it is at present ; and though it
has, of late years, considerably decreased in size and
population, it still exhibits a striking picture of the
ancient villages of the kingdom. It is now chiefly in-
habited by weavers for the linen manufacturers of Cupar-
Angus, Blairgowrie, and Newburgh ; and attached to
each of their cottages, is a portion of land sufficient to
maintain a cow, and to yield meal and potatoes for the
supply of their families.
AIRTH, a parish, in the county of Stirling, 6|
miles (N.) from Falkirk ; containing, with the village
of Dunmore, 1498 inhabitants, of whom 5S3 are in the
village of Airth. The Gaelic term ard, or ardhe, signi-
fying a hill, is supposed to have given the name to this
place, in which the eminence called the Hill of Airth is
a conspicuous feature, and forms a striking contrast to
the level district by which it is surrounded. The parish
is situated on the shore of the Forth, which is its boun-
dary on the north and east, for about S-§ miles, and
contains the three small landing-places or harbours of
Newmiln, Airth, and Dunmore ; its length, from north
to south, is 6^ miles, and its breadth 3^, comprising
16,400 acres, mostly in tillage. The small river Pow
is the only water besides the Forth ; it rises in the
parish of St. Ninian's, and, after being crossed by several
stone bridges, falls into the latter river near Kincardine
ferry. The prevailing soil consists of alluvial deposits
from the Forth; and the layers of shells, at a small dis-
tance from the surface, on the lower grounds, have led
to the opinion that this portion of the parish formed
originally a part of the bed of the river. Most kinds of
grain and green crops are raised, averaging, in annual
value, £100,000 ; and the general husbandry, which has
been for some time on the advance, is now considered
equal to that of the best cultivated districts. The
rocks comprise distinct varieties of sandstone, differing
in colour, texture, and extent, and there are several
quarries. Argillaceous rock also exists, of the fire-
proof species, on which rest beds of coal, belonging,
with their appropriate strata, to the great coalfield of
Scotland, though they are not at present worked, the
pits formerly in operation, near the village of Dunmore,
having been closed since 1S11, on account of their ex-
hausted state. The plantations are chiefly in the vici-
nity of the beautiful hill of Airth and Dunmore Park,
the most prominent and striking portions of the parish,
on the former of which is situated Airth Castle, a very
ancient building, with a handsome new front, sur-
mounted in the. centre by a tower, the whole forming a
picturesque object from every part of the surrounding
ALEX
ALFO
country. In Dunmore Park is the mansion of the
Earl of Dunmore, built in the Elizabethan style, about
twenty years since, upon an extensive lawn richly
studded with all kinds of trees, and encompassed with
grounds thickly planted, like those of the Castle, with
larch, Scotch fir, birch, oak, and beech. About 185
acres of land, recovered from the sea, have been added
to the Airth estate, and 150 to that of Dunmore, within
the last fifty years, and are secured by embankments of
mud and turf, defended by substantial stone facings ;
and considerable tracts of moss are annually recovered
by the employment of what are called " moss lairds,"
who, by hard labour, are gradually reducing the large
extent, amounting to between 300 and 400 acres, re-
ceiving for their work £24 per acre.
The parish is traversed by the Glasgow turnpike-
road, on which the Alloa and Kirkcaldy coaches travel
daily ; there is also constant communication with Edin-
burgh, by means of steam-boats plying on the Forth,
throughout the whole year. Over the small river Fow,
up which the tide flows, for above a mile, is the Abbey-
town bridge, situated on the road from Airth and Dun-
more to Carron and Falkirk, having received this name
from a town, as is supposed, to which it led, in a direct
line, and near which was an ancient abbey. There are
two old ferries, called Kersie and Higgin's Neuck, the
latter about a mile across, and the former half that dis-
tance, at which, on each side of the river, is a pier for
the accommodation of passengers at all states of the
tide. The harbours of Airth, Dunmore, and Newmiln
are within the jurisdiction of the custom-house of Alloa,
and there are four registered vessels belonging to the
parish. An annual fair is held on the last Tuesday in
July, chiefly for the hiring of servants as shearers. The
parish is in the presbytery of Stirling and synod of
Perth and Stirling, and in the patronage of the family
of Graham ; the minister's stipend is £281. 12., with a
manse, and a glebe of 10 acres, including the site of the
manse and garden, valued at £27 per annum. The
church, which is conveniently situated, was built in
1820, and is capable of accommodating 800 persons.
There is a place of worship for the Burgher denomination.
The parochial school affords instruction in Latin, arith-
metic, book-keeping, and the usual elementary branches ;
the master has a salary of £34, and £40 fees. The poor
enjoy the benefit of several considerable bequests ; a
savings' bank was instituted in 1821, and there are two
friendly societies, one of which is connected with the
weavers of the parish, who carry on a manufacture to
a very limited extent. The family of Murray derive the
title of Earl from their ancient seat of Dunmore, in the
parish.
AIRTHRIE, Stirling. — See Allan, Bridge of.
AITHSTING, Shetland. — See Sandsting and
Aithsting.
ALDHOUSE, a village, in the parish of East Kil-
bride, Middle ward of the county of Lanark. This
place, which includes Crosshill, lies in about the centre
of the parish, and contains a branch of the parochial
school.
ALEXANDRIA, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Bonhill, county of Dumbarton ; contain-
ing 3397 inhabitants, of whom 3039 are in the village,
4 miles (N.) from Dumbarton. The village is on the
west bank of the river Leven, and its population has, of
35
late years, very considerably increased, owing to the
establishment of bleach-fields and print-fields in the
parish ; the persons employed here, in these works, are
very numerous. The church is a handsome edifice, and
contains about 1000 sittings ; the minister's stipend is
£206. 17- 4., with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£6. 13. 4. per annum, and a right to fuel on a moss,
commuted for £4 worth of coal, and 13s. 8d. money.
In the village is a place of worship for Independents.
ALFORD, a parish, in the district of Alford, county
of Aberdeen, 26 miles (W. N. W.) from Aberdeen ;
containing 1037 inhabitants. This place, of which the
name is of uncertain derivation, is situated in the south-
western portion of a district nearly in the centre of the
county, called the How of Alford, a valley comprising
also the parishes of Keig, Tough, and Tullynessle and
Forbes, and entirely surrounded with mountains and
hills. The only event of historical importance, is the
battle of Alford, which took place here on the 2nd of
July, 1645, and terminated in the entire defeat of the
army of the Covenanters under General Baillie, by the
royal forces under the command of the Marquess of
Montrose, and in which Lord Gordon, the eldest son of
the Marquess of Huntly, was killed. On the field of
battle, of which the site is marked out by an upright
stone, the body of a horseman, in complete armour, was
found within the last century, by some men digging
peat ; and cannon-balls, military weapons, coins, and
other relics have been discovered near the spot. The
parish is about seven miles in extreme length, and nearly
three miles in breadth, comprising an area of 8715 acres,
of which 4767 are arable, 1169 woodland and planta-
tions, about 200 rich meadow, and the remainder moun-
tain pasture, moss, and waste. The surface is partly
diversified with ranges of nearly contiguous hills, of
circular form, of which the bases have an elevation of
420, and the summits of S00, feet, and which increase
in height towards the mountain of Callievar, on the
western boundary, which has an elevation of 1480 feet
above the sea. The principal river is the Don, which
forms the northern boundary of the parish, and is here
about 120 feet wide, flowing from east to west, between
verdant banks of great beauty. The river Leochal
has its source in the parish of Cushnie, is scarcely 25
feet in breadth, and flows into the Don ; the burn of
Bents, a still smaller stream, skirts the parish on the
east, and the burn of Buckie, the smallest, flows through
the eastern portion of the parish. The Don and the
Leochal abound with trout; there are also numerous
springs of excellent water, and some slightly cha-
lybeate.
The soil is mostly a dry friable loam, well adapted
for turnips, and, in some parts, of great depth and fer-
tility; the crops are, oats, bear, potatoes, and turnips.
The system of agriculture is in an improved state ;
much waste land has been reclaimed ; the farm build-
ings are, in general, substantial and commodious, and
the lands are inclosed with stone dykes. Great atten-
tion is paid to the improvement of live stock, for which
the hills afford good pasture; the sheep, with the excep-
tion of a few of the black-faced, are usually of the Leices-
tershire and Merino breeds, reared chiefly for their wool,
and about S00 are generally fed in the pastures. The
rearing of black cattle, however, is the main dependence
of the farmers, and about 2000 are kept, chiefly of the
F2
A L L A
A L L O
Aberdeen polled kind, and a cross between it and the
short-horned. The plantations are, larch, Scotch and
spruce firs, beech, elm, ash, mountain ash, lime, plane,
oak, willow, birch, and poplar. The rocks are princi-
pally of the primitive formation, chiefly micaceous schist,
and granite, of which latter there are several varieties,
some resembling the grey granite of Aberdeen, and
others the red granite of Peterhead ; many of the rocks
are almost in a state of decomposition. Haughton, the
seat of the principal landed proprietor, is an elegant
mansion of dressed granite, beautifully situated on the
bank of the Don, in a wide demesne tastefully laid out,
and embellished with thriving plantations. Breda, an-
other seat, and Kingsford, recently built, are also hand-
some houses.
The village consists, for the most part, of houses of
neat appearance, to each of which is attached a portion
of land, and extends for about three-quarters of a mile
along the road to Aberdeen. A post-office has been es-
tablished, and facility of communication is afforded by
good roads, and by substantial bridges across the various
streams, one of which, over the Don, an elegant struc-
ture of granite, was erected in 1810, by the Parliamen-
tary Commissioners, at a cost of £'2000. Fairs are held
for black cattle, horses, and sheep, on the Tuesday be-
fore the second Wednesday in June, and the Friday
after the second Thursday in September (O. S.) ; and
markets for black cattle and grain, on the first Mon-
day in every month, from October till May. The
ecclesiastical affairs of the parish are under the super-
intendence of the presbytery of Alford and synod of
Aberdeen; the minister's stipend is £106. 17. 4., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £6. 13. 4. per annum ;
patron, the Crown. The church, erected in 1804, and
enlarged in 1S26, is a neat structure, containing 550
sittings. The parochial school is attended by about
80 children ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4.,
augmented, by the proceeds of bequests, to £38, and
the fees average about £15 annually. On the summit
of a hill called Carnaveran, supposed to signify, in the
Gaelic language, " the Cairn of Sorrow," is a cairn in
the form of a truncated cone, 120 feet in diameter at
the base, in removing a portion of which were found
several coffins of flat stones.
ALLAN, BRIDGE OF, a village, in the parishes of
Lecropt and Logie, county of Stirling, 4 miles (N.)
from Stirling; containing 561 inhabitants. This vil-
lage, which is pleasantly situated on the banks of the
river Allan, formerly consisted only of a few irregular
and detached cottages, and derived its chief importance
from an ale and porter brewery that had been esta-
blished here, towards the close of the last century.
From its proximity, however, to the mineral spring of
Airthrie, and the well of Dunblane, of which the water,
discovered in 1814, has been found to possess similar
properties, but of milder operation, the village has
rapidly increased in extent and population, and, on the
failure of a project for conveying the water of the latter,
by pipes, into the town of Dunblane, has, in that re-
spect, attained precedence as a place of fashionable
resort. An excellent inn for the accommodation of
visiters, and numerous houses for the reception of
families residing here during the summer months, have
been erected within the last few years, and are fully
occupied ; and good shops, amply stored with articles of
36
every kind, have been opened for their convenience.
The environs abound with pleasing scenery, among
which the grounds of Keir House form a conspicuous
feature ; and are interspersed with handsome villas, in-
habited by opulent families. The river, near the village,
rushes with impetuosity, through a deep glen richly
wooded, forming an interesting and secluded retreat.
The spring of Airthrie rises on the high grounds above
the village, on the estate of Airthrie, and was discovered
several years since, during the working of a copper-
mine ; the water is a saline aperient, similar to that of
Cheltenham, but not so strong, containing, as its chief
ingredients, common salt, muriate of lime, and sulphate
of lime, and has been fast advancing in reputation, espe-
cially for scorbutic complaints. The water of Dunblane
Well has been analysed by Dr. John Murray, an emi-
nent physician, and found to contain, in one imperial
pint, '24 grains of muriate of soda ; of muriate of lime,
IS grains ; of sulphate of lime, 3 "5 grains ; of carbonate
of lime, '5 grains ; and of oxide of iron, "17 grains.
The woollen manufacture is carried on to a small ex-
tent, for which there is a mill at the hamlet of Keir ;
and there is also a paper manufactory. The members of
the Free Church have a place of worship.
ALLANTON, a village, in the parish of Edrom,
county of Berwick, l^mile (S.) from Chirnside ; con-
taining 26/ inhabitants. This village, which is situated
at the confluence of the rivers Whitadder and Black-
adder, is neatly built, and inhabited chiefly by persons
employed in the manufactories in the neighbourhood ;
some of the houses are detached, and surrounded with
pleasant gardens. A considerable traffic is carried on
in coal, which is brought from the county of Northum-
berland, and also from Eyemouth, to which place it is
sent, by sea, from Newcastle ; and there is a daily de-
livery of letters in the village, by a branch from the
post-office at Dunse. A place of worship in connexion
with the Free Church has been erected.
ALLOA, a burgh of barony, sea-port town, and
parish, in the county of Clackmannan, 7 miles (E.)
from Stirling ; containing, with the villages of Cambus,
Coalyland, Holton- Square, and Tullibody, 7921 inhabit-
ants, of whom 5434 are in the burgh, and 2457 in the
East quoad sacra parish. This place, of which the name,
in various documents Aidewmj and Alloway, is supposed
to signify, in the Gaelic language, " the way to the sea,"
includes also the ancient parish of Tullibody, memorable
for the erection of its village, in S34, by Kenneth MA1-
pine, on the plain where he encamped the main body of
his army, previously to the victory which put an end to
the Pictish dynasty in Scotland. In 1149, David I.
erected, and annexed to the abbey of Cambus Kenneth,
which he had founded on the field where the battle took
place, the church of Tullibody, which he endowed with
land, and with some islands in the Frith of Forth, for
the maintenance of the officiating priests. In 1559, the
French forces under General D'Oysel, who were sta-
tioned on the coast of Fife, on the appearance of the
English fleet, made a precipitate retreat to Stirling ;
but, being retarded in their progress by Kirkcaldy of
Grange, who had broken down the bridge of Tullibody,
they unroofed the church, and, converting the timbers
into a temporary bridge, effected their escape across the
Forth. The church, thus exposed to the injuries of the
weather, soon fell into a state of dilapidation ; and the
A LL O
ALLO
parish of Tullibody, about the time of the Reformation,
became united to that of Alloa. In 1645, the Earl of
Montrose, on the night, before the battle of Kilsyth, en-
camped his forces in the woods of Tullibody, and was
hospitably entertained by the Earl of Mar, in his cas-
tle of Alloa.
The family of the Erskines, ancestors of the earls of
Mar, were distinguished, at an early period, for their
eminent services ; and John, the 5th earl, who became
Regent of Scotland, was entrusted with the guardian-
ship of Mary, Queen of Scots, who, during her infancy,
remained under his protection, at Alloa Castle, till
1548, when, by order of the estates of the kingdom, he
conveyed her to the court of France. John, the 6th
earl, was appointed guardian to the infant monarch,
James VI., who spent many of his earlier years at
Alloa, and also at Stirling. The castle of Alloa, an-
ciently one of the residences of the Scottish kings, was,
in the 13th century, given by David II. to Lord Ers-
kine, in exchange for the estate of Strathgartney, in
the county of Perth. Of the ancient edifice, one tower
only is now remaining, S9 feet in height, and of which
the walls are 1 1 feet in thickness ; the other portions of
the buildings which constituted the family residence,
were destroyed by an accidental fire in 1S00, and a
splendid mansion has been since erected by the Earl of
Mar. This is a spacious structure, of white freestone
from a quarry in the park, beautifully situated on a
gentle acclivity, within about 200 yards of the old
tower, and inclosing a quadrangular area ISO feet in
length, and 120 feet in breadth. The principal front
occupies the whole width of the area, and is an elegant
specimen of the Grecian style ; and the interior con-
tains numerous stately apartments, superbly decorated.
Four entrance lodges, also, have been recently built ;
but the whole of the arrangements are not yet com-
pleted.
The town is situated on the Frith of Forth, and,
though irregularly built, consists of several good streets,
of which John-street, planned in the year 1704, is
about SO feet in width, leading to the quay, and ter-
minating in a gravel-walk, shaded by a row of lime-
trees on each side, and forming a pleasant promenade.
The old houses in the principal streets have been
mostly taken down, and replaced with modern buildings
of handsome appearance ; and many of the shops dis-
play much elegance of style. The streets are well
paved, and lighted with gas from works erected in 1821,
by a company of shareholders, at an expense of £3000 ;
and the inhabitants are amply supplied with water, con-
veyed into the town by pipes, from springs in the vici-
nity. Considerable additions have been made to the
town, which is rapidly extending towards the west ;
and within the few last years numerous villas have
been erected, in that direction. The Clackmannanshire
library, founded here in 1797, is supported by annual
subscriptions of ten shillings each, and contains a col-
lection of more than 1500 volumes; there are also a
reading and news room, and an assembly-room. A
mechanics' institution was established in 1826, and was,
for some time, well supported, but, of late, has not been
so warmly patronized ; connected with it, is a library of
470 volumes.
The principal manufacture is that of woollens,
which, though formerly of very limited extent, has lat-
37
terly much increased, and for which several additional
mills have been erected on a large scale ; there are at
present six factories, of which four are worked by steam.
The chief articles are, yarns, plaiding, shawls, tartans,
druggets, blankets, and cloth of various kinds, together
affording employment to 200 men, 72 women, and 90
children ; and connected with these factories, is an ex-
tensive establishment for the manufacture of machinery.
The glass manufacture, for which works, commenced at
an early period, were extended by a joint-stock company,
in 1825, produces glass bottles equal to those of New-
castle, in Northumberland. There are eight extensive
breweries, of which five are in the town ; and the ale
produced is in high repute, and is sent, in large quantities,
to London, and exported to the continent, North and
South America, the East and West Indies, and other
places. Large distilleries are conducted at Cambus
and Carse Bridge ; at that of Cambus, nearly 6000
gallons are produced weekly, consuming about 374
quarters of malt, and feeding 400 head of cattle ; there
are 60 men employed in the establishment, and the
amount of duty paid to government, exceeds £50,000
per annum. The distillery at Carse Bridge is nearly
equal in extent. Extensive tanneries are carried on at
Tullibody, in which leather is made to the amount of
£20,000 annually ; and there are also works for the
manufacture of glue, belonging to the same company,
and mills, driven by steam, for grinding bones for
manure, together affording employment to about 40 men.
The iron-foundry, and works for the manufacture of
steam-engines, are also very extensive, employing nearly
100 men. There are large potteries for white and
coloured earthenware, of every kind, and the manufac-
ture of bricks and tiles occupies more than 40 persons ;
the fire-bricks made here are considered equal to those
of Stourbridge, and adjoining the works is a commodi-
ous wharf for shipping the produce. Ship-building is
also carried on ; vessels of 300 or 400 tons' burthen
are frequently built, and in 1845, a vessel of 800 tons
was built here, for the foreign trade. Boat-building
is carried on, and there is a dry dock for repairing ves-
sels ; the making of sails and ropes is also considerable,
and there are numerous mills, driven by water and
steam.
The port, which includes the creeks of Kincardine
and Stirling, and has recently been made a bonding
port, carries on an extensive coasting, and a consider-
able foreign, trade, the latter chiefly with Holland and
the Baltic. The principal exports are, coal, pig-iron,
woollen goods, glass, ale, whisky, leather, bricks, and
tiles; the chief imports, coastwise, are, grain, malt,
wine, groceries, wool, and fullers'-earth, and, from
foreign ports, timber, deals, hemp, oak-bark, and bones
for manure. The amount of registered tonnage, in-
cluding the creeks, is about 19,000 tons, of which about
10,000 belong to Alloa ; the number of vessels that
entered inwards, in 1838, was 600, and the number that
cleared outwards, 1250. The harbour is accessible, at
high water, to vessels of large burthen, which may lie in
safety at the quays, which are commodiously adapted to
the loading and unloading of their cargoes, and on
which is a custom-house. The market-days are Wed-
nesday and Saturday, the latter being the principal, and
fairs are held on the second Wednesday in Feb., May,
August, and November ; the August fair, which is the
ALLO
A LM O
most numerously attended, is for hiring servants, and
for general business, and the other three are for cattle.
The post-office has a considerable delivery ; and facilities
of intercourse with Edinburgh, Stirling, and the several
towns on the Forth, is afforded by numerous steamers.
The town was erected into a burgh of barony, in the
reign of Robert Bruce, and is governed by a baron
bailie, appointed by the Earl of Mar: the courts of the
sheriff and justices of peace, have been transferred from
Clackmannan to this town, and a county prison has been
just completed.
The parish, which is bounded on the south by the
Forth, and on the east partly by the Black Devon, is of
very irregular form, comprising about 5000 acres, of
which 43/5 are arable, 514 woodland and plantations,
and the remainder waste. The surface, though not
mountainous, is beautifully diversified with hills of
moderate height, and fertile valleys. From the higher
of the eminences, of which none exceed 400 feet in ele-
vation above the Forth, are views of picturesque and
romantic character ; a fine tract of rich carse land ex-
tends along the banks of the Forth, and the scenery,
enriched with wood, and interspersed with streams, is
of very pleasing aspect. The river Devon flows through
the south-western portion of the parish, into the Forth,
at the village of Cambus, about two miles from Alloa ;
and the Black Devon, after forming part of its eastern
boundary, takes a westerly course, and flows through the
parish, into the Frith of Forth, at Clackmannan. A
large reservoir called Gartmorn Dam, 160 acres in
extent, and 37 feet in depth, was formed by John, Earl
of Mar, about the year 1/00, by throwing a dam-head
across the Black Devon, at Forest Mill ; the bed of that
river was thus raised 16 feet above its former level, and
from it he carried an aqueduct of four miles in length,
for the supply of this reservoir, which he constructed
for driving the machinery of the Alloa colliery, and of
several mills.
The soil of the lower lands is richly fertile, but of the
higher, thin and light, on a cold tilly bottom ; the prin-
cipal crops are, wheat, barley, and oats, with the various
green crops. The system of husbandry has been much
improved, under the auspices of the Clackmannanshire
Agricultural Society ; the lands have been well-drained,
and partially inclosed, and the farm-buildings are com-
modiously arranged. The cattle are chiefly of the Ayr-
shire breed, with a few of the short-horned, though
no great number are reared ; and a few sheep, of various
kinds, are fed for the butcher. Very little of the ancient
forests of Clackmannanshire is now remaining ; the prin-
cipal woods are those of Tullibody, in which are many
stately trees of venerable growth. The plantations consist
mostly of oak and other hard- wood trees, intermixed with
firs; they are regularly thinned, and are in a thriving state.
The substrata are, sandstone of different colours, clay-
slate, limestone, and coal, which last occurs in seams
varying from a few inches to nine feet in thickness ; of
the sandstone, two quarries are wrought, to a very mode-
rate extent, the one of white, and the other of a reddish,
colour. The coal is extensively worked in three several
fields, the Coalyland, the Carse Bridge, and the Sauchy,
which extends into the parish of Clackmannan ; the
average quantity annually raised amounts to nearly
80,000 tons, which are conveyed by railroads to the
harbour at Alloa. Tullibody House, the seat of Lord
38
Abercromby, and the birth-place of General Sir Ralph
Abercromby, is pleasantly situated on the bank of the
Forth, in a richly-planted demesne, abounding with,
fine old timber, and surrounded by thriving plantations.
Shaw Park House, the seat of the Earl of Mansfield,,
formerly the property of the Cathcart family, is a hand-
some mansion on elevated ground, about two miles to
the north of the Forth, and commanding a very exten-
sive view, embracing the windings of the river, with the
castle of Stirling, and the mountains of Ben Lomond,
Ben Ledi, and Tinto, in Clydesdale.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintend-
ence of the presbytery of Stirling and synod of Perth
and Stirling ; patron, the Crown. The minister's
stipend is £299. 3. 2., with a manse, and a glebe valued
at £63 ; there is also an assistant minister, who receives
the interest of two bequests, one of £800, and the other
of £500. The parish church, erected by the heritors
and feuars, in 1819, on a site given by the late John
Francis, Earl of Mar, is a handsome structure in the later
English style, with a square embattled tower sur-
mounted by a lofty spire, together 207 feet in height,
and contains 1561 sittings : the steeple of the old
church is still remaining, and near it is the mausoleum
of the Erskine family. The ancient church of Tullibody,
which had been in disuse from the time of the Reforma-
tion, was restored about ten years since, and again ap-
propriated to the purposes of divine worship. There are
also places of worship for members of the Free Church,
the United Secession, Independents, Wesleyans, and
Swedenborgians ; and an episcopal chapel, erected in
1840 from a design by Mr. Angus. The parochial
school is well conducted; the master has a salary of
£34. 4. 4., with an allowance of £16 in lieu of house and
garden, and the fees average £25 per annum. The Alloa
academy was erected in 1824, by subscription, and for
some few years, a salary was received by the rector, whose
present income is derived solely from the fees, of which
a portion is paid to an assistant ; the course of studies is
extensive, and the fees vary from 5s. to lis. 6d. per
quarter. In repairing the road, in 1828, about 20 sepul-
chral urns, of Roman pottery, were found, containing
burnt bones, placed in an inverted position, on a flag-
stone ; also two stone coffins, about 3 feet in length, in
each of which was a pair of bracelets, of pure gold,
highly polished, but without ornament, one pair of
which was purchased from the workmen, by Mr. Drum-
mond Hay, and deposited in the Antiquarian Museum,
Edinburgh. Several Roman coins have been discovered
in different parts of the parish ; and a few years since, a
brass coin was dug up, having the letters S.C. on the
one side, and on the other, the legend " Augustus Tri-
bunus." About a mile to the east of the town, is an
ancient upright stone called the Cross, near which,
about 40 years since, human bones were found, and a
coffin of flagstones, 3 feet in length, on which were cut
two small figures of the cross.
ALMOND-BANK, a village, in the parish of Meth-
ven, county of Perth ; containing 245 inhabitants. The
population is engaged principally in the public works on
the river Almond ; and a portion finds employment in a
hand-loom weaving establishment at Woodend, in the
vicinity of the village. There is a flourishing unen-
dowed school here, the teacher of which is nominated
by the patron of the parish, who, with some other per-
A LT I
ALVA
sons, makes a contribution for his support. In digging
a trench in the neighbourhood, the skull of an animal
was recently discovered, supposed to be of the ox tribe,
which existed wild in Scotland some centuries ago ; it-
measured, from between the centre of the horns to the
nose, two feet four inches, and the horns were sixteen
inches in circumference, in their thickest part. The
curiosity fell to the possession of the late Lord Lyne-
doch.
ALNESS, a parish, in the county of Ross and Cro-
marty, 9 miles (N. E. by N.) from Dingwall ; contain-
ing 1269 inhabitants, of whom 202 are in the village.
This parish, which takes its name from two Gaelic
words signifying a " burn," or small river, and a
" point," is about 20 miles in extreme length, and 5 in
average breadth. It is bounded on the north by Kin-
cardine parish ; on the south by the Cromarty Frith,
which is here 2 miles broad ; on the east by the parish
of Rosskeen, from which it is separated by the river of
Alness • and on the west by Kiltearn, from which it is
separated by the river Auldgrande. The surface, to-
wards the Frith, is for the most part flat, but, in the
northern part, mountainous and wild ; the climate is
dry and salubrious, and the general appearance of the
parish is pleasing, being well-wooded, and presenting an
agreeable variety of moor and well- cultivated land. In
the northern quarter, are two fresh-water lochs, one of
which, called Mary, is distinguished both for its great
depth and the lofty and abrupt mountain scenery in its
vicinity; the salmon and salmon-trout taken in the
Frith and rivers, are of very superior quality, and would
be numerous were it not for the illegal depredations
committed during the interdicted season. The chief
rock in the parish is the old red sandstone ; immense
boulders of granite and gneiss are seen in different
places, especially in the moorland districts, and some
iron-ore has also been discovered, about 5 miles from
the Frith, embedded in a gneiss rock. The only village
is Alness, which is nearly equally divided between this
and the neighbouring parish of Rosskeen, by the river of
Alness ; in the Rosskeen portion, a market is held for
the sale of cattle, monthly. The ecclesiastical affairs are
directed by the presbytery of Dingwall and synod of
Ross ; the family of M'Kenzie, of Cromarty, are patrons,
and the minister's stipend is £230. 19. 11., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £12 per annum. The
church, which was built in 17S0, is in good condition,
and holds S00 people. A Free Church place of wor-
ship has been just erected. The parochial school affords
instruction in every branch of education; the master
has a salary of £34, with £20 fees. There is also a
school supported by the Society for Promoting Christian
Knowledge, of which the teacher has a salary of £15, and
land valued at £5 per annum, with the school-fees.
Another is maintained by the funds raised under the
auspices of the General Assembly, and its master re-
ceives a salary of £20, and has a house, and a small
piece of ground. At Multivie, in the parish, two cairns
were opened some years since, and found to contain
human bones of a remarkably large size.
ALTIVAIG, a small island, in the parish of Kil-
mtjir, county of Inverness. It is one of several islets
extending from Aird point, southward, to Ru-na-
Braddan, on the north-eastern coast of the Isle of Skye,
and is about two miles in circumference, and very fer-
39
tile ; it has a harbour, with good ground for anchorage,
but from being open to the North Sea, it is judged to
be unsafe. The soil is appropriated to the pasturage
of sheep.
ALVA, a parish, in the county of Stirling, 7 miles
(N. E. by E.) from Stirling; containing 2216 inhabitants,
of whom 2092 are in the village. The name of this
place, the orthography of which has successively passed
through the different forms of Alueth, and Alvath, or
Alveth, to that of Alva, is of Gaelic origin, and is sup-
posed to be derived from the term Ailblieaeli, signifying
" rocky," and to have been applied to this spot, as de-
scriptive of the general character of its hills. The parish
is locally situated in Clackmannanshire, and formerly
belonged to that county, by which it is bounded on all
sides except the north, where it touches Perthshire ;
but, after the beginning of the 17 th century, it was an-
nexed to the county of Stirling, though four miles dis-
tant from its nearest point, to which it has since been
united in all respects, till associated, for political pur-
poses, under the Reform act, to its ancient shire. It
comprises about 4120 acres, of which S67 are arable,
30/2 natural pasture, including 140 or 150 acres of cul-
tivated grass, and 181 are wood. The lands, on the
north, consist principally of the Alva hills, which con-
stitute the most interesting and beautiful portion of the
Ochil range, forming here a rich mineral district, tra-
versed in all directions by large flocks of sheep, and
ornamented with numerous cascades. At the base
of these lofty elevations, commences a valley, a part of
which, stretching towards the south, covers the rest of
the parish, and is replete with richly diversified and
highly picturesque scenery, embracing, at its margin,
the river Devon, which runs along the boundary of the
parish in this direction, and contains, like most of the
burns, abundance of excellent trout. The most lofty
of the Ochils, Bencloch, or Bencleugh, rises 2420 feet
above the Devon, and is situated at the north-eastern
extremity of the parish, commanding, from its summit,
not only fine views of local scenery, but, in the distant
prospect, the whole Grampian range, with part of thir-
teen counties, and their villages and towns.
The soil has several varieties ; that in the vicinity of
the Devon, which overflows its banks two or three times
in the year, is a rich, sandy, alluvial earth, of great
depth, and forming what is termed haugh land. Next to
this, northerly, is a strong clay, after which follows a
tract of moss, from 50 to 100 yards broad, and, in some
parts, 7 feet deep ; and the remaining portion of the
arable ground, extending to the hills, is a rich hazel
mould, mixed occasionally with gravel and small stones.
The system of agriculture is in a highly improved state;
the crops consist of wheat, oats, barley, peas, beans,
clover, potatoes, and turnips, and a small portion of
ground is annually planted with woad for dyeing. The
hills belong to the trap formation, and contain heavy
spar, onyx, and, among many other pebbles, that called
the Ochil eye, which is said to be peculiar to this range.
The chief celebrity of the parish, however, as a mineralo-
gical district, has arisen from its treasure of silver ore,
which was discovered and worked, between the years
1710 and 1715, by Sir John Erskine, who is said to
have derived from it £4000 per week, and an aggregate
of £40,000 or £50,000, the material being so pure as to
afford 12 oz. of silver from 14 oz, of ore, Attempts to
ALVA
ALVA
obtain the precious metal were afterwards renewed, in
1759, by a branch of the same family, who had pur-
chased the barony, when veins were discovered of lead,
copper, iron, and cobalt ; but the silver was found in
such small portions, that the pursuit was abandoned,
and the cobalt being so plentiful, and of such good
quality, was worked extensively, and has since proved a
source of considerable wealth to the different proprie-
tors. The woods and plantations are so extensive and
beautiful that they form a prominent feature in the
scenery, and invest this place with a peculiarly sylvan
appearance, especially when contrasted with the sur-
rounding country. Woodhill, elevated 1620 feet above
the lowest ground, is shrouded with almost every de-
scription of rich foliage, for more than two-thirds of the
ascent, the plantations around the base comprising oak,
elm, ash, beech, and larch, with various species of pine,
planted by Sir John Erskine. Those on the east and
west sides of the hill were planted by Lord Alva, and
subsequent proprietors of the mansion of Alva, which
is on a projecting part of the eminence, and commands
very extensive prospects. The old mansion of the
Stirlings, of Calder, in Clydesdale, who possessed origi-
nally these estates, and afterwards of the Erskines, was
enlarged and modernised in 1820; it is surrounded by
elegantly laid-out grounds, interspersed with stately ash-
trees and several venerable oaks, and the road to the
village church, about a mile distant, is through an avenue
of richly verdant foliage.
The village, which is of considerable extent, but of
very irregular form, having been built at different
periods, and increased by cottages and houses erected
on ground leased under Sir John Erskine and Lord
Alva, has been doubled in size within the last fifty
years ; it has been known for its manufacture of serges,
ever since the latter part of the 17th century. A wool-
len-mill was first established in 1801 ; the number of
mills has now increased to eight, besides many smaller
works, and the present articles wrought are, plaidings,
blanketings, and coarse stuffs, those of chequered cassi-
meres, carpets, shawls, and trowser-cloths having more
recently been added. The quantity of wool annually
consumed is about 480,000 pounds, chiefly from the
Cheviot sheep; and in the manufacture of these articles,
which are sold at Stirling, Perth, and Edinburgh, but
chiefly at Glasgow, about 560 persons are employed.
The parish is in the presbytery of Stirling and synod of
Perth and Stirling, and in the patronage of James John-
stone, Esq.; the minister's stipend is £157. 5. 4., with
a manse, and a glebe, valued at £27 per annum. The
church was formerly mensal, and belonged to the
bishopric of Dunkeld ; the edifice was built in 1632, by
Alexander Bruce, then proprietor of Alva, and was en-
tirely rebuilt in 1815, at the expense of James Raymond
Johnstone, Esq., with seats for 586 persons, and is at
present in very good repair. The cups for the commu-
nion service were made from the silver found in the
parish, and presented by Lord Alva, in 1767- The pa-
rochial school is situated in the village ; the master has
a salary of £29. 18. 10., and £28 fees. The only anti-
quities are, several large stones supposed to be Druidical.
The hawk used formerly in sporting, of the species/afco
peregrinus, is a native of this parish, and has nestled,
from time immemorial, in a lofty perpendicular rock
called Craigleith : from this place, Mary, Queen of Scots,
40
procured falcons, after her arrival from France, and a
short time since, a pair of these birds were sent by the
proprietor of Alva, to the Duke of St. Alban's, king's
falconer in England.
ALVAH, a parish, in the county of Banff, 3 miles
(W. S. W.) from Banff; containing 1407 inhabitants.
The origin of the name of this place, which, in different
records, is variously spelled, is altogether involved in
obscurity ; but authentic sources of information still
remain, throwing light on the apportionment of its
lands, in early times, to several distinguished families ;
and in 1314, a charter was granted by Marjory, relict
of John, Earl of Atholl, and Lord Strath-Alveth, con-
veying the patronage of the kirk, with considerable pro-
perty here, to the abbot of Cupar. The parish, from
which that of Forglen was disjoined, prior to the middle
of the 17th century, is situated near the north-eastern
extremity of the county, separated from the Moray
Frith by only a small intervening portion of the parish
of Banff, and is bounded on the east by the shire of
Aberdeen, where the line of division is very nearly
marked by the course of the river Doveran. It com-
prises 11,133 acres, of which 6955 are cultivated, 3428
waste and pasture, and 750 wood, and exhibits through-
out an uneven and rugged surface, occasionally marked
by lofty elevations, among which the hills of Alvah and
Maunderlea are the most conspicuous, the former rising
578, and the latter 733, feet above the sea. The
scenery in the western and south-western portions, is
dreary and wild, and takes its character chiefly from
the numerous eminences connected with the Hill of
Maunderlea, which stretches in a northerly direction
from the parish of Marnoch. In the other parts it
possesses great picturesque beauty, being ornamented by
the silvery meanderings of the Doveran, and the lofty
and majestic hill of Alvah, which, rising from the midst
of rich and well cultivated lands surrounding its base,
displays a profusion of sylvan beauty on its sloping
sides, and commands, from its tabular summit, diversi-
fied views in several directions. The Doveran, being,
in one place, impeded by a rocky barrier stretching
from east to west, takes a curve for about a mile, when,
meeting with an outlet through a chasm, the precipitous
sides of which are united by a massive arch, erected in
1772, by the late Earl of Fife, it resumes its former
direction, and passes through some very bold and ro-
mantic scenery. The sides of the rocky chasm, after
expanding themselves, form a lofty acclivity on each
side of the intermediate basin, and, rising like the walls
of a majestic amphitheatre, about 100 feet above the
stream, exhibit a grotesque and imposing assemblage of
shrubs, trees, and mosses.
The soil, in the eastern part of the parish, through
which the river takes its course, consists of an alluvial
loam of considerable depth, incumbent upon blue clay
containing admixtures of clay-slate, and in the remain-
ing portion of the lower grounds, the earth rests upon
a coarse diluvial clay, mixed in some places with fer-
ruginous sand, shingles, and occasionally boulders. In
the higher grounds, it has a subsoil frequently of a
very sandy nature, much interspersed with shingles, and
pieces of greywacke slate and other rocks. The annual
average amount of produce is £19,800, of which up-
wards of £10,000 are derived from oats, and the re-
mainder from turnips, potatoes, hay, and pasture, and
ALVA
A L V E
a small quantity of bear and barley. The cattle are of
the Aberdeenshire breed, or approximating very closely
to it; but, within the last few years, the Teeswater, or
short-horned, have been introduced upon several of the
best farms, where they thrive well, and are often used
for a cross with the native cow. Within the present
century, considerably more than 2000 acres of waste
have been improved, a large portion of which was
covered with furze and heath ; and fenny or boggy
grounds have also been reclaimed to a great extent, by
draining. Lime is employed for manuring the lands, and
bone-dust has been recently applied, in soils adapted to
it, with great advantage. The rocks consist princi-
pally of clay-slate and greywacke ; the latter is suc-
cumbent, and interlined with thin veins of quartz, and
the line of bearing, with a trifling variation, is from
north-east to south-west, dipping to the north-west.
The angle of elevation of the clay-slate varies, and in-
creases from the low grounds, where the rock is almost
horizontal, till it arrives at nearly a perpendicular, to-
wards the top of the hill of Alvah. The plantations,
including about 300 acres formed in the course of the
present century, contain mostly Scotch fir and larch,
among which are trees of beech, ash, oak, elm, plane,
&c. The chief mansion is, the House of Montblairy,
built in 1791, and since repaired and considerably en-
larged, situated on the west side of the Doveran, on a
sloping bank, in the midst of thriving and beautiful
plantations, and containing a gallery of fine portraits of
illustrious individuals. Dunlugas, about half a mile
distant, on the opposite bank of the river, was erected
in 1/93, of granite, and is a spacious structure, orna-
mented with a lawn in front, stretching to the margin
of the river, and embellished with several lofty trees ;
the back-ground, with its plantations of thriving and
sable firs, furnishing a striking contrast to the sur-
rounding scenery. The parish contains six meal-mills,
a malt-mill, a lint-mill, and thirty-one threshing-mills,
the last of which have been erected during the last
thirty years : and a distillery, built about fifteen years
since, on the estate of Montblairy, at an expense of
£4000, was till lately in full operation, and capable of
producing 40,000 gallons of spirits annually.
The parish is in the presbytery of Turriff and synod
of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of Sir Robert Aber-
cromby, Bart. ; the stipend of the minister is £] 78. 15. 5.,
and there is a manse, built in 1764, and repaired in
1S15, with a glebe containing between 6 and 7 acres,
valued at about £25 per annum. The church is a plain
edifice, erected in 1792. There is a parochial school,
the master of which gives instruction in Latin, occa-
sionally in Greek and French, and in all the ordinary
branches of education ; he has a salary of £30, in addi-
tion to the fees, with a house, and a portion of the Dick
bequest. The antiquities are few and unimportant, con-
sisting chiefly of several cairns and Druidical circles,
not of sufficient consideration to merit notice. The ruins
of the ancient castle, which formerly stood near Mont-
blairy, and is supposed to have been built by one of the
Stewarts, earls of Buchan, are no longer visible ; and
those of the old chapel, near the same spot, have been
removed of late years. On the estate of Sandlaw, and
in several other places, large trees have been found, at
a great depth below the surface ; and memorials of the
ancient cultivation of the soil, may be traced over about
Vol. I.— 41
1000 acres of land, at present the poorest in the district.
Alvah is celebrated for its fine springs, the principal of
which, called Comes-well, and mentioned by that name
in a charter more than 500 years old, discharges twenty-
seven gallons per minute of water almost as clear as
that produced by distillation ; and there are also several
chalybeates, the most famed of which are, the Red Gill
well at Brownside Hill, and a spring on the hill-head of
Montblairy. Dr. George Chapman, author of a treatise
on education, was born here in 1723 ; and Major-Gen.
Andrew Hay, who fell on the 14th of April, 1814, at
Bayonne, in the fifty-second year of his age, and to
whose memory a monument was erected in St. Paul's
Cathedral, at the public expense, was a resident.
ALVES, a parish, in the county of Elgin, 5 miles
(W.) from Elgin, on the road to Inverness ; containing,
with the hamlets of Coltfield and Crook, 913 inhabit-
ants. This parish, which is about 5 miles long, and of
nearly the same breadth, and contains about 12,000
acres, is bounded on the north by the parish of Duffus,
the Moray Frith, and part of Kinloss ; by the hill of Plus-
carden on the south ; by New Spynie on the east ; and
by Kinloss and Rafford on the west. The surface is
slightly diversified with hill and dale, and consists of
pasture and arable land, with a considerable quantity
of wood, though but little water. The soil, in gene-
ral, is a deep rich loam, upon a clay bottom, though,
in some places, it is of a lighter quality ; the land is
portioned into 25 large farms, which are cultivated in
the best manner, but about 100 acres consist of Scotch
fir, and one-sixth part of the parish of new plantation.
All kinds of produce are raised, and a great part of the
grain is shipped at Burgh-Head, or Findhorn, and sold in
the London market. The cattle are usually of a mixed
breed between the Aberdeenshire and the Highland, with
a few of the polled from Buchan ; great improvements
have been carried on, for some years past, in draining,
making of extensive inclosures, recovering of mosses,
and the erection of good farm-houses and offices.
The rocks consist of freestone, of which quarries are
regularly worked ; there is a quarry supplying mill-
stones, and in several places a considerable depth of
peat-moss occurs. There are two mansion-houses;
Milton-Brodie, an ancient edifice, at the west end of the
parish, to which a handsome front has been recently
added, greatly improving its appearance ; and the house
of Newton, a plain building, at the east end, with a
pleasing lawn before it. The population are agricultural,
and live, for the most part, in groups of houses ; the
fuel formerly in use was peat, but the cutting of it has
been recently prohibited, and at present great efforts
are made by the poor to obtain English coal, cargoes
of which are imported from Sunderland, and landed at
Burgh-Head and Findhorn. The ecclesiastical affairs
are directed by the presbytery of Elgin and synod of
Moray ; the Earl of Moray is patron, and the minister's
stipend is £215. 1. S., with a good manse, recently
built, and having convenient offices and garden, and
a glebe of four acres of land, worth £9 a year. The
church, built in 1*69, is a long narrow edifice, con-
taining sittings for 590 persons. There is a place of wor-
ship in connexion with the Free Church ; also a parochial
school, of which the master teaches Latin, Greek, and
the mathematics, in addition to the ordinary branches of
education, and has a salary of £34. 4. Another school
G
AL VI
ALYT
is maintained by subscription ; and a parochial library
is supported, which contains about 200 volumes.
ALVIE, a parish, in the district of Badenoch,
county of Inverness, 9 miles (N. E.) from Kingussie ;
containing, with part of the quoad sacra parish of Insh,
972 inhabitants, of whom 73 are in the village of Lyn-
chat. This place is supposed to have derived its name,
signifying the " Isle of swans," from the situation of its
ancient church on a peninsula, in the north-west ex-
tremity of the parish, formed by Loch Alvie, which,
from time immemorial, has been frequented by numbers
of that aquatic fowl. The parish, which is intersected
by the river Spey, extends for nearly twenty miles in
length, from north to south, including the outline of the
hills which terminate in the Grampian range ; and
varies from two to six miles in breadth, from east to
west. It is calculated to comprise about 84 square
miles, or 53,600 acres, of which 2574 are arable, 1S42
meadow and pasture, and the remainder, exclusively of
some large tracts of wood and plantations, moorland
and waste. The surface is generally high, that portion
of the strath of Badenoch which is within the parish
having an elevation of nearly 650 feet; and is diversi-
fied with numerous hills and mountains, of which the
Grampians, forming the southern boundary, rise to the
height of 4500 feet above the sea, and those on the
north-west boundary, though of inferior elevation, attain
a very considerable height.
The river Spey, which rises in the braes of Bade-
noch, near Lochaber, flows through the parish, in a
direction nearly from west to east; and the small river
Feshie falls into the Spey, near the church ; salmon are
sometimes taken in the Spey. Loch Alvie is about a
mile in length, and half a mile in breadth ; the average
depth is about 11 fathoms, and the surrounding scenery
is pleasingly picturesque. The soil is generally light and
gravelly, with the exception of the meadow-lands on the
banks of the Spey, which are luxuriantly rich ; the chief
crops are, oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips,
with the various grasses. The system of husbandry has
been gradually improving, and, on some of the larger
farms, is in a very advanced state ; on the smaller
farms, it has made comparatively little progress. There
are very few inclosures, and the farm-buildings are of
inferior order ; little attention is paid to the rearing of
live stock ; the sheep are commonly of the black-faced,
and the cattle of the Highland black breed. The hills
and mountains are composed chiefly of gneiss, inter-
sected with veins of granite and red porphyry ; the
granite occurs in two varieties ; the white, which is pre-
ferred for building, and more easily dressed, and the
red, which is harder and more durable. Limestone is
quarried on the lands of Dunachton ; and veins of lead
are found in the gneiss at Tyncaim, and the burn of
Raitts, on the lands of Belleville.
The principal seats are Belleville and Kinrara. The
former is a spacious and elegant mansion, built after a
design of the architect Adam, by James Macpherson,
translator of Ossian's poems, and beautifully situated in
a picturesque demesne, embellished with stately timber
and thriving plantations ; within a cluster of larches, is
an obelisk of marble, erected to the memory of Mr.
Macpherson, and on which is his bust, fine sculptured.
Kinrara, a handsome mansion in the cottage style, built
by the late Duchess of Gordon, and in which she re-
42
sided, during the summer months, till her decease, is in
a highly romantic and sequestered spot, about two
miles from the church of Alvie. In the grounds, is a
monument of granite, erected by the late duke, to the
memory of the deceased, whose remains "were brought
from London, and interred, at her own request, in a
spot which she had selected ; and on Tor Alvie, to the
north-west of the cottage, is a monument erected by the
present duke, to the officers of the 42nd and 92nd
regiments who fell in the battle of Waterloo. At Lyn-
viulg, about half a mile from the church, is a branch
post-office ; and facility of communication is afforded
by the turnpike-road from Edinburgh to Inverness,
which passes through the whole length of the parish.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence
of the presbytery of Abernethy and synod of Moray ;
the minister's stipend is £15S. 4. 6., with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £5 per annum ; patron, the Duke of
Richmond. The church, situated on the shore of
Loch Alvie, is a plain structure, built in 1798, and re-
paired in 1832, and contains 500 sittings. The paro-
chial school is well conducted ; the master has a salary
of £28. IS. 9., with a house, and an allowance of £2. 2.
in lieu of garden, and the fees average about £20 per
annum. Another school, of which the master has a
salary of £20, with £ 1 0 fees, is supported by the Gene-
ral Assembly. At Delfour, about a mile to the west of
the church, are the remains of a Druidical temple, con-
sisting of two concentric circles of upright stones, of
which the inner circle is 25 feet, and the outer, which
consists of larger stones, is 55 feet in diameter ; near
it is an obelisk, 8 feet 6 inches in height, and both are
situated in the middle of an arable field which is under
cultivation. At Raitts, are the remains of an artificial
cavern, anciently the haunt of banditti.
ALYTH, a parish, partly in the county of Forfar,
but chiefly in that of Perth, 17 miles (N. W.) from
Dundee; containing 2910 inhabitants, of whom 190 are
in the county of Forfar, and 1846 in the village, which
is a burgh of barony. This place appears to have de-
rived its name, signifying, in the Gaelic language, an
" ascent," from the gradually sloping eminence on
which its ancient church, and the older portion of the
village, are built. The most ancient document where
its name occurs, is a charter of Alexander II., in 1232,
granting the lands of Bamff, in the parish, to Nessus de
Ramsay, ancestor of Sir James Ramsay, Bart., the pre-
sent proprietor of that estate ; the remainder of the
lands belonged, for many generations, to the Lyndesays,
earls of Crawford, till the year 1630, when they were
purchased by the Ogilvy family. During the wars of
the Covenanters, the army of the Marquess of Montrose
was frequently stationed in the immediate neighbour-
hood ; and during the siege of Dundee by General
Monk, a meeting of the principal inhabitants, held in
the village, to deliberate on the best means of defence,
was surprised by a detachment of the English, who took
many of the members prisoners. The parish is bounded
on the south-east by the river Isla, and is about fifteen
miles in length, and from one mile to six miles in
breadth, comprising 34,160 acres, of which about S100
are arable, 1070 woodland and plantations, and the
remainder meadow and pasture land. The surface is
diversified with ranges of hills, of which those of Alyth,
Loyall, and Barry divide it into two unequal districts ;
ALYT
A M UL
the southern is in the valley of Strathmore, and the
northern includes the forest of Alyth, and the Black-
lunans, which last are in the county of Forfar. The
height of the lands varies from 130 to nearly 1*00 feet,
ascending from the Isla to the summit of Mount Blair ;
the hill of Kingseat has an elevation of 11/8 feet, and
the hills of Alyth, Loyall, and Barry, rise about 700
feet above the sea. The principal rivers are, the Isla ;
the Ericht, a tributary of the Isla; and the burn of
Alyth, which rises in the forest of that name, and falls
into the Isla at Inverquiech, about two miles to the east
of the village. Salmon occasionally ascend the- river
Isla, and trout are found in most of the streams, and in
some, pike.
The soil is greatly diversified ; on the level lands
near the river, it is a deep rich black loam ; in the
Blacklunans district, a lighter, but fertile, loam ; on the
sides of the hills, a fine sharp gravelly soil, well adapted
for oats, turnips, and potatoes ; and in many parts,
peat moss, and moor, of which a considerable portion
might be brought into cultivation. The lands have
been drained and inclosed, and much waste has been
reclaimed ; the farm-buildings, and the houses of the
cottars, are substantial, and the lands near the Isla,
which were exposed to frequent inundation, have been
protected by embankments. The hills afford good pas-
ture for sheep, of which from 2000 to 3000 are reared in
the parish, all of the black-faced breed j the cattle, on
the uplands, are of the native Angus breed, and, on the
lower farms, a cross between the Angus and the Tees-
water. The rocks are generally trap and conglomerate ;
and the principal substrata are, mica, and clay-slate,
sandstone of the old red formation, with some small
beds of a light grey colour, and a yellowish compact
limestone, well adapted for building. The natural wood,
of which but little remains, is birch, hazel, and alder;
and the plantations, of which the greater part is of re-
cent date, are larch, and Scotch and spruce firs, inter-
spersed with various kinds of hard wood ; but the
larches are not in a thriving state. Bamft House is a
handsome mansion of great antiquity, with many modern
additions and improvements, pleasantly situated about
three miles from the village, in grounds commanding
some fine views. Balhary, another seat, is a modern
mansion, on a rising ground on the north bank of the
Isla ; and Jordanstone is also a handsome residence.
The village is on the burn of Alyth, and consists of
several streets of good houses, of which those in the
older part of it are of great antiquity ; the inhabitants
are well supplied with water, and there are three bridges
of stone over the burn, of which the handsomest was re-
cently built, by Sir James Ramsay, to improve the ap-
proach to Bamff House. Most of the population are
employed in weaving coarse linen, for the manufacturers
of Dundee, producing annually more than 10,000 webs,
of 150 yards each ; there is a fulling-mill in the village,
and also at Inverquiech. The place was erected into a
burgh of barony, in the reign of James III. ; a baronial
court is held on the first Tuesday in every month, under
a baron bailie appointed by the Earl of Airlie, who is
superior of the burgh, and a sytem of police has also
been established. A market, well supplied with pro-
visions, was formerly held on Tuesday ; and fairs for
sheep and cattle, are held on the Tuesday after the
second Thursday in March ; the second Tuesday, and
43
the 25th, of June ; the last Tuesday in July; the Tues-
day before the 10th of October; the first Tuesday and
Wednesday, and the Tuesday after the 11th, of Novem-
ber; and the second Tuesday in December; all O. S.
A post-office under that of Meigle has been established
here ; and facility of communication is maintained by
good roads, kept in repair by statute labour, and by the
Dundee and Newtyle railway. The ecclesiastical affairs
of the parish are under the superintendence of the pres-
bytery of Meigle and synod of Angus and Mearns ; the
minister's stipend is £229. 19- 6., with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £14 per annum; patron, the Crown.
The church, situated in the village, is a handsome and
spacious structure in the Norman style, built in 1839,
from a design by Mr. Hamilton, and contains 1290 sit-
tings. There are places of worship for members of the
Free Church, the United Associate Synod, and Original
Seceders, and a small Episcopal chapel. The parochial
school was erected in 1835 ; the master has a salary of
£34. 4. 4., with a house, and an allowance in lieu of a
garden, and the fees average £20 per annum. Five boys
and five girls are instructed and clothed from a rent-
charge of £30 on the Ballindoch estate. On Barry Hill
are some remains of a Pictish encampment, and of a
narrow bridge over the fosse by which it was sur-
rounded ; and on the south side of the hill are several
upright stones, supposed to commemorate some warlike
exploit. Stone coffins, containing human bones, have
been dug up near them. At the influx of the burn
of Alyth into the river Isla, are the ruins of the ancient
castle of Inverquiech ; and at Corb, on the south-west of
the forest of Alyth, are the remains of a castle, probably
a hunting-seat of the earls of Crawford. The place
gives the title of Baron to the Earl of Airlie.
AMISFIELD, a village, in the parish of Tinwald,
county of Dumfries, 5 miles (N. E.) from Dumfries;
containing 140 inhabitants. This place, anciently Ems-
field, was erected into a_ burgh of barony by Charles I.,
with a weekly market and fairs ; at present, it consists
merely of a few old thatched houses, which the pro-
prietors are allowing to go to decay. Amisfield Castle,
long the seat of the ancient family of Charteris, stands
west of the high road from Dumfries to Edinburgh, and
is a quadrangular building, having a high tower of pic-
turesque appearance on the south-west, and a more
modern erection, now the dwelling-house, on the east.
Near the village are distinct vestiges of a Roman fort.
AMULRIE, a village and district, in the parish of
Dull, county of Perth, 11 miles (N. by E.) from Crieff;
containing 406 inhabitants. It is situated on the road
between Crieff and Aberfeldy, and is watered by the
small river Bran, which flows hence in a north-eastern
direction, and falls into the Tay at Inver, opposite to
Dunkeld. Here is a sub post-office ; and an excellent
inn, much frequented by visiters to the neighbouring
lake of Freuchie, is distant about a mile and a quarter
westward of the village. Fairs for cattle and sheep are
held on the first Tuesday and Wednesday in May, and
the Friday before the first Wednesday in November.
There is a chapel in connexion with the Established
Church, under the patronage of the Committee of the
General Assembly ; the minister has a stipend, paid
from the royal bounty, of £65, including £5 for com-
munion elements, with a house and garden, a few acres
of land, and fuel.
G2
ANCR
A ND E
ANABICH, an island, in the parish of Harris,
district of Lewis, county of Inverness ; containing 41
inhabitants.
ANCRUM, a parish, in the district of Jedburgh,
county of Roxburgh, 4 miles (N. W. by N.) from Jed-
burgh ; containing 1407 inhabitants, of whom 499 are
in the village. This place, of which the name, anciently
Alnecrumb, is derived from the situation of its village on
a bend of the river Alne, now the Ale, consisted for-
merly of two villages distinguished by the appellations of
Over and Nether Ancrum, of the former of which no-
thing now remains. The principal event of historical im-
portance is the battle of Ancrum Moor, which originated
in an attempt made in 1545, by Sir Ralph Evers and
Sir Bryan Layton, to possess themselves of the lands of
the Merse and Teviotdale, which had been conferred
upon them by a grant of Henry VIII., King of England.
The Earl of Angus, who had considerable property in
that district, determined to resist this attempt, and a
battle between his forces and those of the English took
place, on a moor about a mile and a half to the north of
the village, in which the latter were defeated, with great
loss. In this conflict, both the villages of Ancrum were
burnt to the ground ; the village of Nether Ancrum was
soon afterwards rebuilt, but of the other nothing remains
but the ruins of one or two dilapidated houses. The
parish comprises about 8400 acres, of which one-half is
arable, 820 woods and plantations, and the remainder
meadow and pasture ; the surface is pleasingly undu-
lated, rising in some parts into considerable eminences,
and presenting a continued variety of level plains and
sloping heights. The Teviot, which forms the southern
boundary of the parish, and the river Ale, which tra-
verses it from east to west, are the only rivers ; the
banks of the latter are highly picturesque in several parts
of its course, rising in some points into precipitous
masses of bare rugged rock, and in others overhung by
rocks richly wooded ; both the rivers abound with ex-
cellent trout, and are much frequented by anglers.
The soil is greatly varied ; on the banks of the Teviot
it is luxuriantly rich, and of great depth ; in other parts
of less fertility, and in some almost sterile. The chief
crops are oats, wheat, barley, potatoes, turnips, peas,
and beans; the system of agriculture is in an improved
state ; draining has been carried on to a considerable
extent, and much of the inferior land has been rendered
productive. Much attention is paid to the rearing of
live stock, for which the pastures are well adapted ; the
sheep are mostly of the Leicestershire breed, and a cross
between that and the Cheviot, and the cattle are all of
the short-horned kind. The woods contain many stately
trees, and the plantations are extensive and well ma-
naged. The principal substrata are, red and white free-
stone, which are both of good quality, and extensively
wrought for the supply of the surrounding district.
Ancrum House, the seat of Sir William Scott, Bart., is
a spacious and venerable mansion, in an extensive and
richly- wooded park, stocked with deer. Chesters is a
handsome modern mansion, romantically situated at the
mouth of a deep and thickly-wooded dell, on the bank of
the Teviot ; and Kirklands, in the later style of English
architecture, is beautifully situated on a wooded height
on the bank of the Ale, forming a strikingly picturesque
object in the landscape. The village is on the south
bank of the Teviot ; facility of communication is main-
44
tained with Jedburgh and other market-towns in the
vicinity, by good roads, and the turnpike-road from
Edinburgh to Newcastle passes along the eastern boun-
dary of the parish for several miles.
The parish is in the presbytery of Jedburgh and synod
of Merse and Teviotdale ; the stipend of the incumbent
is £223. 16. 6., with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£30 per annum ; patron, Sir W. Scott. The church,
which anciently belonged to the see of Glasgow, having
been annexed to it on the dissolution of the abbey of
Lindisfarn, was rebuilt in 1*62, and is a neat and sub-
stantial edifice, adapted for about 520 persons. The
parochial school is well attended ; the master has a
salary of £34. 4. 4., with £28. 15. fees, and a good house
and garden. Till very lately, there were considerable re-
mains of what were called the Maltan Walls, which in-
closed an area of about an acre and a half; this is
supposed to have been the site of a preceptory of the
Knights of Malta, or St. John of Jerusalem, said to
have been established here in the reign of David I. ; and
in the adjacent field, numerous human bones, and fre-
quently entire skeletons, have been discovered by the
plough. Within the area of the walls, were various
vaults and subterraneous passages, apparently the foun-
dations of the ancient building ; but even those portions
of the outer wall which alone were left standing have
disappeared, and little but the site is now left. On the
hill behind Ancrum House, are the remains of a circular
fort, with a triple intrenehment ; and in the parish
are numerous caves, formed as places of retreat in times
of danger, one of which was the favourite resort of the
poet Thomson, and still bears his name. A monument
has been raised over the tomb of Lilliard, a Scotch
female who fell in the battle of Ancrum Moor, covered
with wounds, while fighting with desperate valour, and
was buried on the spot where she fell. The place con-
fers the title of Earl on the Marquess of Lothian.
ANDERSTON, a burgh, and lately a quoad sacra
parish, consisting of part of Barony parish, in the
suburbs of the city of Glasgow, county of Lanark,
1 mile (W.) from Glasgow ; containing 3759 inhabit-
ants. This place derives its name from its founder,
Mr. John Anderston, of Stobcross, who, in 1725, formed
the plan of a village, and divided the lands of one of his
most unproductive farms into building lots, thus laying
the foundation of a very considerable suburb to the city.
It is on the north side of the river Clyde, and though
of irregular form, and comparatively less modern ap-
pearance than others of the suburban districts, it con-
tains many well-built and handsome houses ; the lands
to the north are chiefly garden-ground, and on the banks
of the river are several pleasing villas, inhabited by
some of the most opulent merchants of Glasgow. A
considerable part of the population are employed in the
cotton manufacture, in the iron-foundries, and in the
production of machinery ; many are mariners, be-
longing to the port, and there are several shops of
various kinds, for the supply of the inhabitants.
The town was erected into a burgh of barony, by
royal charter, in 1S24, and the district, which includes
parts of the lands of Stobcross, Gushet, Parsonscroft,
and Rankenshaugh, is wholly within the parliamentary
boundary of the city of Glasgow. The government is
vested in a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and
eleven councillors, annually elected by the burgesses ;
ANDR
A ND R
the bailies and treasurer from the councillors, and the
provost from the burgesses generally. The magistrates
exercise civil jurisdiction in pleas not exceeding 40
shillings in amount, and criminal jurisdiction in all
cases within the Police act ; courts for the former
are held weekly, or every alternate week, and for the
latter four times in the week ; in both of which, the town-
clerk acts as assessor. The burgesses, on admission,
pay a fee of £2. 2. The corporation have power to
hold a weekly market and two annual fairs ; the fairs
were formerly held, but they have been discontinued.
The parish was formed in 1S34 ; the minister's stipend
is £300, derived from the seat-rents, of which £80 are
secured by bond. The church was originally built as a
chapel of ease, in 1799, at a cost of £"2500, raised by
subscription, and has been subsequently repaired ; it is
a neat structure, and contains 1246 sittings. A school
for this parish, and for that of St. Mark, has been
erected at an expense of £1/00, of which £S50 were
subscribed by the two parishes, and the remainder
granted by the treasury ; it. is a spacious building, con-
taining three schools, attended by 600 children paying
very moderate fees. There is also a Free church.
ANDREW'S, ST., a city,
the seat of a university, and
anciently the metropolitan
see of Scotland, in the district
of St. Andrew's, county of
Fife, 39 miles (N. N. E.)
from Edinburgh ; contain-
ing, with the villages of
Boarhills, Grange, Kincaple,
and Strathkinness, 6017 in-
habitants, of whom 3959 are
in the city. This place, which
is of very remote antiquity,
formed part of the territories of the Pictish kings, of
whom Hergustus, whose capital was at Abernethy, had a
palace or hunting-seat near the site of the present town,
at that time a forest frequented by wild boars, and
thence, as well as from its situation on a promontory
overlooking the bay, called Mucross, a name still re-
tained in that of the present village of Boarhills. The
origin of the town is, by tradition, ascribed to St. Rega-
ins, abbot of the monastery of Patrae, in the Grecian
province of Achaia, who, about the year 370, attended
by a company of his brethren, sailed from Patrae, bear-
ing with him a portion of the relics of the apostle St.
Andrew, which had been deposited there, and was
driven by a storm into the bay of this place, where with
difficult}', after the loss of their ship, the crew escaped
to land, with the sacred relics they had preserved. Her-
gustus, the Pictish monarch, informed of the arrival of
these strangers, came to visit them in person, and, pleased
with the simplicity and sanctity of their manners, became
a convert to Christianity, granted them his palace, with
the adjoining lands, for a settlement, and, after the
subsequent erection of a church, changed the name
Mucross into Kilrxjmont, or "the church of the King's
Mount." St. Regulus lived for thirty years afterwards
at this place, under the patronage of Hergustus, dis-
seminating the doctrines of the Christian faith through-
out this part of the country, and was buried in the
church over which he had so long presided. After the
subjugation of the Pictish dominion, and the establish-
45
Seal and Arms.
ment of the Scottish monarchy, by Kenneth McAlpine,
that king transferred the seat of government from
Abernethy to this place, to which, in honour of the
Apostle, he gave the name of St. Andrew's, by which it
has ever since been designated ; and on the division of
the country into dioceses, in the reign of Malcolm III.,
St. Andrew's became the metropolitan see of the king-
dom. In 1120, an Augustine priory was founded here,
by Robert, Bishop of St. Andrew's, who also, in 1140,
obtained from David I. a charter erecting the town into
a royal burgh. To this important priory, the nomina-
tion of the bishop was subsequently transferred, from
the Culdees. In 1159, Bishop Arnold commenced the
erection of the cathedral, which was continued under
his successors, for more than a century and a half, and
ultimately completed by Bishop Lamberton, a zealous
adherent of Bruce. In 1200, Bishop Roger built the
castle of St. Andrew's, which was, for many years, the
residence of the prelates of the see ; and in 1274,
Bishop Wishart founded a Dominican priory.
After the battle of Falkirk, in 1298, Edward I. of
England summoned the Scottish parliament to meet at
St. Andrew's, and compelled every member, with the
exception only of Sir William Wallace, to swear fealty
to his government ; and a few years subsequently, the
same parliament assembled here to take the oath of
allegiance to Robert Bruce. Edward III. of England,
in 1336, placed a garrison in the castle, which, in the
year following, was reduced by the earls of March and
Fife ; and in 1401, David, Duke of Rothesay, and
brother of James I., on a false charge of treason, was
imprisoned in the castle, by his uncle, the Duke of
Albany, and afterwards removed to Falkland, where he
was starved to death. The university of St. Andrew's
was founded in 1410, by Bishop Wardlaw, and, in the
following year, was incorporated by charter, conferring
all the powers and privileges enjoyed by foreign univer-
sities ; James I., after regaining his liberty, visited the
establishment, bestowing on its members many marks
of his favour, and, in 1431, granted them a charter of
exemption from all taxes, tolls, or services, in every part
of the kingdom. Bishop Kennedy, nephew of James I.,
in 1455, founded the college of St. Salvator, chiefly for
theological studies and the liberal arts ; the foundation
charter was confirmed by Pope Nicholas V., and the in-
stitution was subsequently endowed with numerous
royal grants. In 1471, the bishops of St. Andrew's were
dignified with the title of archbishops, and the metropo-
litan see was elevated to the primacy of the kingdom ; in
1512, John Hepburn, prior of the Augustinian monas-
tery, founded the college of St. Leonard, and endowed it
from the revenues of the hospital which had been built
for the reception of pilgrims visiting the shrine of St.
Andrew, and out of his own private property, chiefly for
the education of the brethren of the convent. During
the numerous religious persecutions which preceded the
Reformation, George Buchanan, afterwards preceptor of
James VI., was imprisoned in the castle of St. Andrew's,
for writing against the Franciscan friars, but contrived
to make his escape through one of the windows, and
fled into England. In 1538, Archbishop Beaton, uncle
and predecessor of Cardinal Beaton, began to repair and
enlarge the pedagogium, or ancient seat of the univer-
sity, which, on his decease, was continued by the cardi-
nal, who added largely to its endowment, and converted
A N D R
AN D R
it" into the college of St. Mary, or the New College.
This establishment, which was subsequently improved
by Archbishop Hamilton, was remodelled in 1579, by
Archbishop Adamson and Buchanan, and since that
time has been confined to the study of theology. In
1559, after a sermon preached by John Knox, the re-
former, the populace immediately commenced the de-
struction of the venerable cathedral of St. Andrew's,
which, in a few hours, they reduced to a heap of ruins ;
and they afterwards plundered and destroyed most of
the other religious establishments of the city.
In 1583, James VI., escaping from the thraldom in
which he was held by Gowrie, Glencairn, and others,
shut himself up in the castle, by connivance of the
governor, where he was joined by a number of his loyal
subjects ; and after his accession to the English throne,
he assembled here a meeting of the prelates and princi-
pal clergy, to deliberate on the future interests of the
church. In 1645, the Scottish parliament met in the
city, and passed sentence of death upon Sir Robert
Spottiswood, son of the late archbishop, and three other
royalists, who had been taken prisoners at the battle of
Philiphaugh, and who were publicly executed in the
principal street of the city. In 1679, Archbishop
Sharpe was murdered at Magnus Muir, within four'
miles of the city, by a party of the Covenanters, of
whom five, that were afterwards taken prisoners at the
battle of Bothwell Bridge, were executed on the spot
where the murder was committed, and their bodies hung
in chains. Previously to the Reformation, the city was
a place of considerable commercial importance, and the
resort of numerous merchants from France, Holland,
and other trading ports ; and nearly 300 vessels had
been known to arrive in the harbour ; but, after the
Reformation, and the consequent suppression of its ec-
clesiastical supremacy, its trade and shipping fell into
rapid decay. In 1655, it was so reduced that a peti-
tion was addressed by the magistrates and council to
General Monk, praying to be relieved from an assess-
ment, on the ground of " the total decay of shipping and
sea trade, and the removal of the most eminent inhabit-
ants;" and in 1656, there was only one vessel, of 20
tons burthen, belonging to the port. The chief support
of the inhabitants has since been derived from its
university ; and although its trade has, in some degree,
revived, yet the city has never regained its original
commercial importance.
The town is beautifully situated on the bay of St.
Andrew's in the German Sea, and mainly consists of
three spacious and nearly parallel streets, of which the
principal is South-street, at the western extremity of
which is Argyle Port, the only remains of the ancient
fortifications of the city ; it is still in good preservation,
and over the arched gateway are the city arms, nearly
obliterated by time. Beyond South-street, is Market-
street, to the north of which is North-street ; and still
further to the north, and bordering upon the bay,
was Swallow-street, formerly the principal residence of
the 'merchants, but which has long since disappeared,
and the site been converted into a public walk called
the Scores. These streets are intersected, at right
angles, by several smaller streets ; and a new street
called Bell-street, has recently been formed, connecting
North with Market street, and which it is proposed to
extend to South-street. The houses are generally well
46
built, and of handsome appearance, and many of them
are spacious ; the streets are paved, and lighted with
gas, and the inhabitants are amply supplied with excel-
lent water. A public subscription library was esta-
blished about 18*21, and has now a collection of more
than 1200 volumes ; a literary and philosophical society
was instituted in 1S39, and a mechanics' library was
formed a few years since, but shortly after became
extinct. The sea-beach is well adapted for bathing ;
and near the castle, on an eminence overlooking the
sea, a building has been erected, containing every requi-
site accommodation of hot and cold baths. On the ex-
tensive links to the west of the town, the ancient game
of golf is pursued by the inhabitants, as their principal
recreation; a club for that purpose, consisting of several
noblemen and gentlemen, was established in 1754, and
to such an extent is this amusement followed, that not
less than 5000 balls are annually used by the players.
The environs of the town possess much beauty and
variety of scenery, and the numerous remains of its
ancient ecclesiastical structures, and its colleges and
public buildings, give to it a venerable and interesting
appearance.
The university, which
consists of St. Mary's, or the
New, College, and the united
xs, colleges of St. Salvator and
St. Leonard, is under the con-
troul of a chancellor, chosen
by the senatus academicus ;
two principals, appointed by
the crown, one for St. Mary's,
with a stipend of £238, and
one for St. Salvator's, with
an income of £307 ; and a
rector, annually elected by
the professors and students, from the professors of
divinity and ecclesiastical history in St. Mary's, and the
principal of St. Salvator's. The professorships of divi-
nity, Hebrew, and ecclesiastical history, in St. Mary's,
and the professorship of mathematics in the United
College, are in the patronage of the Crown, and are
valued respectively at £232, £211, £286, and £440, per
annum. The professorships in the United College in its
own gift, are, the Greek, valued at £444 ; logic, £310 ;
moral philosophy, £372 ; and natural philosophy, £278 :
that of medicine, £227, is in the patronage of the uni-
versity. The professorship of humanity, valued at
£458, is in the gift of the Duke of Portland ; the profes-
sorship of civil history, valued at £199, is in the patron-
age of the Marquess of Ailsa ; and that of chemistry,
founded from a bequest by Dr. Gray, and to which
the first appointment was made in 1840, is valued at
£70, and is in the patronage of the Earl of Leven. The
senatus academicus consists of the principals and pro-
fessors of both colleges, and the rector of the university
presides at its meetings ; by this body alone, degrees
are conferred, the several faculties recommending the
candidates. The College of St. Mary is confined to the
study of theology ; the students neither wear gowns, nor
pay any fees, but, previously to their admission, must
have passed through the ordinary routine of classical
and philosophical studies in some of the Scottish col-
leges ; the session commences on the 1st of December,
and closes on the 31st of March. In the gift of this
A N D R
AN D R
college are twenty bursaries, among which are, one of
£18, two of £15 each, ten between £15 and £10, three of
£10, and one of £7 ; the college has also the patronage
of several incumbencies. The buildings, which have
been restored, and partly rebuilt, occupy a quadrangle,
on the north side of which is the university library, con-
taining more than 45,000 volumes, open to the use of
both colleges ; on the west side, are the divinity hall
and principal's lodge. The front towards the street has
been made to harmonize with the new buildings, and
ornamented with a series of shields, containing the
armorial bearings of the several chancellors of the uni-
versity, from its foundation to the present time.
The Colleges of St. Salvator and St. Leonard were
united by act of parliament, in 1747, and placed under
the superintendence of one principal ; the students wear
gowns of scarlet frieze, and pay a fee of £3. 3. to each
of the professors whose lectures they attend ; the ses-
sion commences on the first Tuesday in October, and
closes on the last Friday in April. In the gift of the
college, are sixty-four bursaries, of the aggregate value
of £900 ; of these, there are several of £20 each, four
of £15, two of £14, forty of £10, ten between £10 and
£5 each, and one of £5. Eight are in the patronage of
the Madras school ; seven in that of the university and
united college; three, of £100 each, in the patronage
of Sir Alexander Ramsay, Bart., for candidates of the
names of Ramsay, Durham, Carnegie, and Lindsay ;
and the remainder are open to general competition.
The college has also the patronage of the livings of
Dunino, Kemback, Kilmany, Cults, and Forteviot. The
buildings form a spacious quadrangle, containing the
apartments in which the professors deliver their lectures ;
a hall ; a venerable chapel, in which is the tomb of the
founder of St. Salvator's, Bishop Kennedy, with an in-
scription partly obliterated ; and a museum connected
with the literary and philosophical society of St. An-
drew's. The chapel, which was formerly much larger,
and had an exquisitely groined roof, since removed, from
an unfounded apprehension of insecurity, is now used
as the parish church of St. Leonard. In the tomb of
Bishop Kennedy were found, an exquisitely wrought
silver mace, now appropriated to the use of the college,
and five others, of which two are preserved in the
college of St. Mary, and one each were presented to
the universities of Aberdeen, Glasgow, and Edinburgh.
The college also possesses two silver arrows which
■were annually awarded as prizes to a company of archers,
from the year 16 IS to 1751, and, after being held by
the winners for one year, were returned with silver
medals attached to them ; to one, are appended 39
medals, weighing together 166 ounces, and to the other,
30, weighing 55 ounces. Of the college of St. Leonard,
now in ruins, all that remains, are, the roofless chapel,
the hall, and some other buildings which have been
converted into dwellings ; in the chapel are the monu-
ments of the founder, Prior Hepburn ; of Robert Stewart,
Earl of March, Bishop of Caithness, and commendator
of the priory of St. Andrew's ; and a mural monument to
Robert Wilkie, for twenty-one years principal of the
college. The hall contained the refectory and dormi-
tories of the students ; and on one of the walls, is the
inscription " Erexit Gul. Guild. S.S.T;D." with the date
" 1650."
The Madras College, situated in South-street, was
47
founded by the Rev. Dr. Andrew Bell, one of the pre-
bendaries of Westminster, who, in 1831, conveyed, for
that and other purposes, to the provost of St. Andrew's,
the two ministers of the parish, and the professor of
Greek in the university, £60,000 three per cent reduced
annuities, and £60,000 three per cent consols. Of these
funds, five-twelfths were to be transferred by them to
the provost, magistrates, and town council of Edin-
burgh, Glasgow, Leith, Aberdeen, and Inverness, for
the foundation of schools on the Madras system ; one-
twelfth to the trustees of the Royal Naval School, for a
similar purpose ; and one-twelfth to the provost and
council of St. Andrew's, for the formation of a permanent
fund for the moral and religious improvement of the
city. The remaining five shares were to be vested
in the same trustees, substituting only the sheriff depute
of Fife for the professor of Greek, after the death of the
present professor, for the erection and endowment of
a college, to be called the Madras College of St. An-
drew's, and to the establishment of eight bursaries in
the United College, tenable by such as have been three
years in the Madras College. Buildings were, soon after
erected, in the Elizabethan style, from a design by Mr.
Burn, architect, of Edinburgh, inclosing a spacious
quadrangular area, and containing the requisite class-
rooms for the school, and two handsome residences for
the English and classical masters. The college, which
is under the visitation of the lord-lieutenant of the
county, the lord justice clerk of Scotland, and the
bishop of Edinburgh, is conducted on the Madras
system, by a classical master and an assistant, and
an English master, who has also an assistant, the
former having a salary of £50, and the latter of £25,
from the funds of the college, in addition to their fees;
by masters of arithmetic, writing, and the modern lan-
guages, each of whom has a salary of £50, in addition
to their fees ; and by masters of the mathematics, geo-
graphy, drawing, and church music. The total number
of the pupils is about S00, including those of the Eng-
lish and grammar schools of the city, which have been
incorporated with tins institution ; and about 150 chil-
dren of the poorest citizens, also, receive a gratuitous
education in the establishment.
The only manufactures in the town are, that of golf
balls, of which about 10,000 are annually made; and
the weaving of linen, for the manufacturers of Dundee.
The trade of the port is very inconsiderable ; some
vessels occasionally bring cargoes of timber from Nor-
way and the Baltic, but when drawing more than four-
teen feet of water, they are obliged to discharge part of
their lading before they can enter the harbour. The
number of vessels belonging to the port, is fourteen, of
the aggregate burthen of 680 tons : the harbour is
formed chiefly by the Kinness rivulet, and is difficult of
access; it was deepened in 1836, and, at spring tides,
can receive vessels of 300 tons. The river Eden, on the
northern confines of the parish, is navigable for about
two miles from its mouth ; and on its banks is a dis-
tillery, to which small vessels convey supplies of coal
and grain, and take back cargoes of spirits. On this
river is a salmon fishery belonging to the city, to which
it pays a rental of about £7 ; there are also several
boats employed' in the fisheries off the coast. The fish
usually taken are, haddock, cod, ling, skate, halibut,
and flounders, of which the produce, after supplying
A ND R
AND R
w
Second Seal of the Burgh.
the home markets, is sent to Cupar ; and during the
season, the greater part of the boats are employed in
the herring-fishery off the coast of Caithness. The city
received its first charter of
incorporation from David I.,
in 1140, erecting it into a
royal burgh 5 and under this
charter, confirmed by Mal-
colm IV., in 1153, the go-
vernment is vested in a pro-
vost, four bailies, a dean of
guild, a treasurer, and twenty-
two councillors. There are
seven incorporated guilds,
viz., the smiths, wrights,
bakers, shoemakers, tailors,
weavers, and butchers, into one of which an individual
must be admitted, previously to his becoming a burgess
qualified to carry on trade ; the fees vary from £45 to
£15 for strangers, from £20 to £l<2 for apprentices,
and from £2. 10. to £1 for sons of freemen. The ma-
gistrates exercise civil and criminal jurisdiction within
the burgh, the former to any amount, but the latter con-
fined chiefly to petty offences, for which purpose they
hold a bailie-court twice in the week, and courts for
the recovery of small debts on the first Monday in every
month ; in the latter, the number of cases has greatly
diminished since the establishment of the sheriff's small-
debt court. A dean-of-guild court is also held, occa-
sionally. The city, with the burghs of Anstruther
Easter and Wester, Crail, Cupar, Kilrenny, and Pitten-
weem, returns a member to the imperial parliament ;
the number of qualified voters is about 2S0. The town-
hall, an ancient building, situated in Market- street,
has been recently enlarged and repaired ; and the gaol,
which is chiefly for the temporary confinement of petty
delinquents, is under good regulations. The market is
held weekly on Monday, and is well supplied with
grain ; and markets for poultry, butter, eggs, and pro-
visions of all kinds, are held on Wednesday and Satur-
day. There are fairs on the second Thursday in April,
the 1st of August, and the 30th of November (all O. S.) ;
the first, anciently called the Senzie Fair, was formerly
of 15 days' continuance, and was resorted to by mer-
chants from various foreign ports. The post-office has
a daily delivery; and communication is maintained
with Dundee and Edinburgh, by good roads, of which
those from Dundee and Cupar meet in the north of the
parish.
The parish is bounded on the east by the German
Sea, and is about ten miles in length, and two miles in
extreme breadth, comprising 10,300 acres, of which
9S40 are arable, 345 woodland and plantations, and the
remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. The surface is
generally level, except towards the east, where the hills
of Balrymonthave an elevation of 370 feet, and the hill
of Clatto, to the west, which rises to the height of 548
feet above the sea ; the coast is about six miles in extent,
and is bounded, in some parts, with rocks, of which the
Maiden rock, and those of Kinkell and Buddo are the
most conspicuous. About a mile from the town is the
cave of Kinkell, about 80 feet in length, and 25 feet
wide ; the roof, apparently of one entire stone, is about
1 1 feet in height, but inclining so much towards the
east as to form an angle with the floor, which, on the
4S
west side, about 40 feet from the entrance, is covered
with plants whose growth is promoted by water con-
stantly trickling from the roof. The principal river is
the Eden, over which is an ancient bridge of six arches,
called the Gair or Guard bridge, built by Bishop Ward-
law, and wide enough only for one carriage to pass ;
there are also two small rivulets, of which the larger,
after a course of nearly five miles, having turned several
corn-mills, flows into the harbour, on the south-east ;
and the other falls into the sea at the north-west of the
city. The soil is mostly fertile, and the lands are gene-
rally better adapted for tillage than for pasture, produc-
ing abundant crops of grain of all kinds ; the system of
agriculture is improved, and many acres of land near
the mouth of the Eden have been protected from inun-
dation by embankment. The cattle, which were previ-
ously all of the Fifeshire breed, have, within the last
few years, been mixed with various others of recent in-
troduction ; and the sheep, of which the number has
been for some time gradually increasing, are principally
of the Highland and Cheviot breeds. The chief sub-
strata are, sandstone, in which are found thin seams of
coal, slate clay, and clay ironstone ; the sandstone is of
a grey colour, very durable, and of good quality for
building. The plantations, which are mainly around
the houses of the landed proprietors, and in a thriving
state, are mostly ash, oak, elm, beech, plane, and larch,
with some Scotch firs, which are chiefly on the poorer
soils.
The ecclesiastical, affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of St. Andrew's and synod
of Fife ; the living is collegiate, consisting of two
charges, of which the first is in the patronage of the
Crown, and the second in that of the Magistrates and
Council of the city. The minister of the first charge
has a stipend of £439. 9. 4., with a glebe valued at
£23 per annum ; and the minister of the second charge
has £171. IS. 2., with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£16. 15. per annum. The parish church, originally
erected by Bishop Turgot, about the commencement of
the 12th century, is a spacious structure with a tower
and spire, and anciently contained numerous chapels,
which were suppressed at the Reformation ; after the
destruction of the cathedral, it was substituted as the
cathedral of the archbishops of St. Andrew's. It was
rebuilt in 1*98, and contains about 2200 sittings ; in
the aisle is a splendid monument of white marble, erected
to the memory of Archbishop Sharpe, by his son, in
1679. A chapel in connexion with the Established
Church has been recently erected at Strathkinness, in
the parish, at a cost of £400, raised by subscription ; it
contains 124 fixed sittings, and moveable benches for
about 230 persons; the minister has a stipend of
£54. 12., of which one-half is paid by the minister of the
first charge of the parish, and the remainder by the
heritors. An episcopal chapel was built in 1825, at a
cost of £1400 ; there are also places of worship for
members of the Free Church and United Secession,
Baptists, and Independents. Among the monuments of
antiquity with which the city and its environs abound,
are the remains of the church of St. Regulus, which,
with every appearance of probability, is supposed to be
the original structure erected by Hirgustus, King of the
Picts, on his conversion to Christianity. They consist
chiefly of the tower, 108 feet high and 20 feet square at
A N D It
ANDR
the base, formerly surmounted by a spire ; and the
eastern portion of the church, 31 feet in length, and 25
feet wide, having two windows on the north, and two on
the south side. Since the decay of the spire, the tower
has been roofed with a platform of lead, to which there
is an ascent by a spiral staircase within. On the east
and west faces of the tower, are traces of several roofs
of different heights, with which the church has been
covered at various times ; and from the summit is
obtained an extensive prospect over the bay and the
adjacent country.
The ancient Cathedral, completed in 1318, was a mag-
nificent cruciform structure, 3/5 feet in length, ISO feet
across the transepts, and 72 feet in mean breadth, with
a lofty central tower, of which nothing now remains but
the bases of the columns whereon it was supported ; it
had also two turrets at the western, two at the eastern,
extremity, and one at the end of the south transept,
each 100 feet in height. Of this splendid structure,
which was destroyed at the commencement of the Refor-
mation, only the eastern gable, with its turrets, one of
the turrets at the west, and a portion of the walls, are
now remaining ; the style of its architecture is partly
Norman, and partly of the early and later English,
which latter is more prominent in the western portion
of the building, from the greater richness of its details.
The interior has been cleared, by order of Her Majesty's
exchequer, from the accumulated heaps of rubbish with
which it had been, for years, obscured ; and such repairs
have been made as were requisite for the preservation
of the remains. Within the area of the cathedral pre-
cincts, which occupy a space of about IS acres, are
some portions of the Priory, or Augustine monastery,
founded by Robert, Bishop of St. Andrew's, and other
monastic buildings, in a state of irretrievable decay ;
the whole is inclosed by a wall erected by Prior Hep-
burn, originally almost a mile in circuit, 20 feet in height,
and four feet thick, defended by 16 turrets, at irregular
distances, and having three handsome gateways, above
one of which, still remaining, is a mutilated statue of
the Virgin Mary. To the north-west of the cathedral,
on an eminence overlooking the sea, are the remains of
the Castle, rebuilt by Bishop Trail, about the close of
the 14th century; after the murder of Cardinal Beaton,
in 1546, it was besieged and destroyed, but was
subsequently rebuilt by Archbishop Hamilton, and
continued to be the residence of the prelates till 1591,
since which period it has been suffered to fall into decay.
The only remains are, part of the south side of the qua-
drangle, with a handsome square tower, and a few other
fragments. The ancient convent of Franciscan friars
was demolished at the Reformation, and the site is now
occupied by a part of Bell-street ; and the Dominican
convent founded in 1274, shared the same fate, with
the exception of its chapel, a beautiful specimen of the
early English style, within the grounds of the Madras
College, and for the preservation of which Dr. Bell, the
founder, made due provision. On an eminence to the
west of the harbour, are the ruins of the Kirkheuch, a
Culdee establishment, for a provost and ten prebenda-
ries, said to have been erected by Constantine II., in the
ninth century, and of which Constantine III., after re-
signing his crown, became abbot.
ANDREW'S, ST., a parish, in the county of Orkney ;
containing, exclusively of the late quoad sacra parish
Vol. I. — 49
of Deerness, 926 inhabitants. This parish is situated on
the eastern coast of the mainland, and is bounded on
the north by the Frith of Shapinshay ; on the east by
Deer Sound, which separates it from Deerness ; and
on the west by the bay of Inganess. It is about six
miles in extreme length, and two in average breadth,
and is connected with the peninsula of Deerness by a
narrow isthmus less than a quarter of a mile in length ;
the coast is so singularly indented with bays and inlets
from the sea, that its form cannot be well defined, or its
extent accurately ascertained, though it is generally
estimated at 13 square miles, and the line of coast at
about IS miles. The surface, though generally low, is
intersected by three nearly parallel and equidistant
ridges of inconsiderable height, and diversified with hills
of gentle acclivity, of which the highest has an elevation
of 350 feet above the sea, and, towards the north-east,
terminates in precipitous rocks, of strikingly romantic
appearance; in one of these is a remarkable cavern, 60
feet in length, and about 30 feet wide, communicating
with the sea by a passage, through which a boat may
pass at certain times of the tide. Deer Sound forms an
excellent roadstead for vessels in boisterous weather ;
it is about four miles long, and two miles broad, and has
a depth of six or seven fathoms at the entrance, with a
sandy bottom, and affords good anchorage for vessels of
any size. Inganess bay, on the north-west coast, about
two miles and a half in length, and more than a mile in
breadth, varies in depth from three to twelve fathoms,
and affords good anchorage and shelter from all winds.
Neither of these bays, however, is at present much
frequented.
The soil is extremely various in different parts of the
parish, consisting of sand, loam, clay, and moss, alter-
nating, and frequently found in combination ; the num-
ber of acres under tillage is about 2200 ; the chief crops
are oats and bear, with a small proportion of potatoes
and turnips. The farming is in a very unimproved
state ; some attempts have been made to drain the lands,
but very little progress has hitherto been effected in the
general system of agriculture. Little attention has been
paid to the improvement of the breeds of live stock ; the
horses most in use are those of the Norwegian kind
called the Garron, strong and hardy, but seldom exceed-
ing 14 hands in height ; the black cattle are small, thin,
and ill-conditioned, from the scantiness of the pas-
tures ; and the sheep are inferior to those of the Zetland
breed, and not so remarkable for fineness of wool.
The farm-buildings are generally of stones and clay,
roofed with thatch ; and the few inclosures that have
taken place, are made by mounds of turf. The rocks
are argillaceous sandstone and flag, apparently of the
old red sandstone formation, alternated with trap, and
traces of calc-spar and pyrites of iron are found occa-
sionally ; slates of inferior quality, and also freestone,
are obtained in some parts.
The manufacture of kelp, formerly carried on here to
a great extent, has of late been greatly diminished ;
and that of straw-plat, which was also extensive, has
been almost discontinued. Fairs for cattle are held at
Candlemas, Midsummer, and Martinmas. The fish
generally found off the coast are, cod, haddocks, floun-
ders, skate, thornbacks, and coal-fish ; and crabs, lob-
sters, cockles, and other shell-fish, are found on the
shores ; but no regular fishery of these has been esta-
H
AND R
ANNA
blished. The herring- fishery was commenced in 1833,
and is carried on to a very considerable extent ; curing-
houses have been erected, and there is every prospect
of the formation of an extensive and lucrative herring
station at this place. Communication with Kirkwall,
and with other parts of the mainland, is maintained by
good roads, of which that to Kirkwall is one of the best
in the county. The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of
Kirkwall and synod of Orkney ; the minister's stipend
is £200, exclusive of £8. 6. 8. for communion elements,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £14 per annum ;
patron, the Earl of Zetland. The church, built in 1801,
and enlarged in 1827, is a neat structure, conveniently
situated, and containing 400 sittings. A Free Church
place of worship has been erected here. The parochial
school affords the general course of study ; the master
has a salary of £27, with a house and garden, and the
fees average £9. There are some slight vestiges of
ancient chapels ; and on the point of Inganess are traces
of an old circular fort of stones and earth, command-
ing the entrance of Deer Sound. Several tumuli also
remain, one of which, on the glebe land, is about 140
yards in circumference at the base, and 12 feet high ;
another, nearly in the centre of the parish, is 90 yards
in circumference, and 16 feet high, and a third, of much
larger dimensions, is situated on the isthmus at the
southern extremity of the parish.
ANDREW'S LHANBRYDE, ST., a parish, in the
county of Elgin, 3 miles (E.) from Elgin ; containing
1176 inhabitants, of whom 174 are in the village of
Lhanbryde. To this parish, which was anciently called
the barony of Kill-ma-Lemnock, Lhanbryde, signifying
in Gaelic "The church of St. Bridget," was united in
17 S2, in addition to two other chapels that had been
joined before the Reformation. It is three miles broad,
from east to west, and about four long, from south to
north, exclusively of the Teindland, which is detached
one mile distant on the south, and although generally
considered as belonging to this parish, pertains to that
of Elgin. It contains about 5000 acres, of which four-
fifths are under cultivation, and 650 acres are woodland,
and is intersected by the great north road and the river
Lossie. The isolated tract just named was originally
the moor where the cattle were collected for drawing
part of the teinds of both parishes, before they were
converted into money ; from which circumstance it de-
rives its name. The surface has, in general, the appear-
ance of a plain, in which a series of low hills rise, appa-
rently connected together, and all covered with corn,
grass, or wood. The district is subject, in the spring
season, to a succession of storms, some of which are of
the most violent, piercing, and blighting nature, equally
injurious to vegetation and to animal life. There are
three lakes on the confines of the parish, of which the
largest, called Spynie, consisting of shallow water rest-
ing upon a deep rich mould, offered a temptation to
drainage, which, a few years since, was prosecuted at an
expense of nearly £10,000, but the operation has not
yet fully succeeded. These lakes abound with trout,
eels, and pike, and are visited by a great variety of wild
ducks, and sometimes by wild geese and swans. The
river Lossie, which, entering the parish at the north-
west corner, divides it there from the town of Elgin, is
subject to great floodings, and the grounds on its banks
50
frequently suffer serious injury ; salmon, pike, trout,
&c. are found in it, though not in any considerable
quantity.;
The soil in general is sandy, yet fertile where the
land is low and damp, for, in this part of the county,
the farmer has mostly to complain of drought, by which
he loses much every summer. All kinds of grain are
produced in a larger quantity than is necessary for
domestic use, as well as the ordinary green crops and
grasses ; and most of the farms are of considerable size,
and occupied by gentlemen of skill, and with adequate
capital. The whole extent of the parish is incumbent
upon a bed of limestone belonging to the calciferous
sandstone of the old red formation. About a mile
eastward of the manse, a small section made by the
burn of Llanbryde exposes a bed of the inferior oolite
kind; and two miles north-west of the manse appear, at
Linksfield, Pitgavei^r, &c. insulated patches of the Pur-
beck beds of the wealden, or fresh-water deposit, rarely
met with in Scotland. Limestone is burnt for agricultural
and building purposes, and the wealden clays and
marls are applied to fertilizing the light sandy soil in
the neighbourhood. Pitgaveny House is a handsome
residence, with grounds tastefully laid out. There is a
manufacture of malt in the parish; and a cast-iron
foundry, and a manufactory of woollen stuffs, are car-
ried on, the latter of which employs about 45 hands.
A fair is held at Lhanbryde on the 4th Tuesday in
October, when cattle, farming implements, and similar
commodities, are exposed for sale. The ecclesiastical
affairs are directed by the presbytery of Elgin and synod
of Moray ; the patronage is vested in the Crown and
the Earl of Moray, alternately, and the minister's sti-
pend is £206. 19., with a manse. The church is a com-
modious building, and will hold between 400 and 500
persons. There is a parochial school, the master of
which has a salary of £34. 14., with a house and gar-
den, and about £12 fees, and teaches the classics, ma-
thematics, French, and Gaelic, together with the ordi-
nary branches of education. About half a mile south
of the manse is a small square fort of great antiquity,
called the Tower of Coxton, and which appears to have
been of considerable strength. The neighbourhood
affords numerous specimens of interest, in the form of
fossils. Many of the distinguishing fossils of the infe-
rior oolite, have been found in the bed exposed by the
Lhanbryde burn; at Linksfield a great variety also occurs,
and of the greatest number and interest, in a dark-
coloured shale bed containing slabs of highly crysta-
lized limestone.
ANGUS. — See Forfarshire.
ANNAN, a royal burgh,
and a parish, in the county
of Dumfries, 16 miles (E.
S. E.) from Dumfries, and 79
(S.) from Edinburgh ; con-
taining, with part of Bryde-
kirk quoad sacra, 5471 in-
habitants, of whom 4409 are
in the burgh. This place,
which is of remote antiquity,
and supposed to have been
a Roman station of some im-
portance, was, after the de- Seal and Arms-
parture of the Romans from Britain, occupied by the
ANNA
ANNA
ancient inhabitants till their expulsion by the Northum-
brian Saxons. After the dissolution of the Saxon hep-
tarchy, the surrounding territories were annexed to the
kingdom of Scotland, in the reign of Malcolm Canmore ;
and the lands were subsequently granted to Robert de
Bruce, Lord of Annandale, who built a castle for the
defence of the town, in which he occasionally resided.
From its proximity to the English border, the town was
frequently plundered during the Border warfare, and
sometimes burnt ; and it suffered greatly in the wars
consequent on the disputed succession to the Scottish
throne, in the reign of Edward I. of England. In 129S,
the town and church were burnt by the English, but
were subsequently restored by Robert Bruce, who, in
1306, ascended the throne of Scotland; and in 1332,
Edward Baliol, after his coronation at Scone, repaired
to the castle of Annan, whither he summoned the
nobility of Scotland, to pay him homage. During his
continuance here, Archibald Douglas, the firm adherent
of the Bruces, having collected a force of 1000 cavalry
at Moffat, advanced to Annan during the night, and
having surprised and defeated his guards, Baliol was
induced to make his escape from the castle, and, hastily
mounting a horse with neither saddle nor bridle, with
considerable difficulty reached Carlisle, without a single
attendant.
In 1547, the town was plundered and burnt by the
English under Wharton, accompanied by the Earl of
Lennox, on which occasion, as the castle was at that
time dismantled, the inhabitants fortified the church,
and for some time successfully resisted the invaders.
In the two following years, the town and the surround-
ing district were continually infested by the predatory
incursions of the English borderers, against whose
attacks the governor, Maxwell, levied a tax of £4000,
for repairing the castle, and placing it in a state of de-
fence. During the regency of Mary of Guise, on the
arrival of a large body of French soldiers in the river
Clyde, the greater number of them were stationed in the
town, for the protection of the neighbourhood ; and in
1570, the castle was again destroyed by the English
forces, under the Earl of Sussex ; but it was afterwards
restored, and continued to be kept up, as a border for-
tress, till the union of the two crowns by the accession
of James VI. At this time, the town was reduced to
such a state of destitution, that the inhabitants, unable
to build a church, obtained from that monarch a grant
of the castle, for a place of public worship ; and during
the wars in the reign of Charles I., the town suffered so
severely, that, by way of compensation, the parliament,
after the restoration of Charles II., granted to the cor-
poration the privilege of collecting customs and other
duties for their relief. The Highland army, on their
retreat before the Duke of Cumberland, in the rebellion
of 1745, encamped here on the night of the 28th of
December, after having lost great numbers of their men,
who were drowned while attempting to cross the rivers
Esk and Eden.
The town, which is pleasantly situated on the eastern
bank of the river Annan, about a couple of miles from
its influx into Solway Frith, consists of several spacious
and regularly-formed streets, intersecting each other at
right angles ; and is connected with the country lying
upon the opposite bank of the river, by an elegant
stone bridge of three arches of 65 feet span, erected in
51
1824, at an expense of £8000. The houses are well
built, and of handsome appearance, and in the imme-
diate vicinity are numerous villas and mansions; the
streets are paved and lighted, and the inhabitants amply
supplied with good water. A public library is supported
by subscription. From the beauty of the scenery in
the environs of the town, and the facilities of sea-
bathing afforded by the Frith, it is a favourite place of
residence. The spinning of cotton-yarn, which was in-
troduced here in 1785, is still carried on, and affords
employment to about 140 persons ; the factory, in which
the most improved machinery is employed, has been
recently enlarged, and the quantity of yarn produced
averages 4000 pounds per week. The usual handicraft
trades requisite for the supply of the neighbourhood,
are pursued ; and there are numerous shops, amply
stocked with various kinds of merchandise. The trade
of the port partly consists in the importation of timber,
deals, lath-wood, and tar, from America and the Baltic,
in which two vessels are employed ; and about thirty
vessels are engaged in the coasting trade. The exports
are chiefly grain for the Glasgow and Liverpool markets,
and timber and freestone, for various English ports.
By the steamers which frequent the port, grain, wool,
live stock, bacon, and hams, are sent to Liverpool and
the adjacent towns of Lancashire, from which they bring
manufactured goods ; and the other imports are mostly
coal, slates, salt, herrings, grain, and iron, from Glasgow
and places on the English and Irish coasts. The num-
ber of vessels registered as belonging to the port, is 34,
of the aggregate burthen of 1639 tons. The port, which
is under the custom-house of Dumfries, and is formed
by an inlet from the river, has been much improved by
the embankment of Hall meadow, on the Newby estate,
by the proprietor, John Irving, Esq., at a cost of £3000,
which has rendered the channel of sufficient depth for
the safe anchorage of vessels of considerable burthen.
Two piers have been erected by the proprietors of the
steamers frequenting the port, to which has been formed
a road from the burgh, by subscription, at a cost of
£640 ; and a commodious inn, with good stabling, has
been built near the jetties, within the enbankment.
The ancient records of the burgh having been de-
stroyed during the frequent devastations of the town, a
charter confirming all previous privileges, and reciting
a charter of James V. in 1538, by which it had been
erected into a royal burgh, was granted by James VI.,
in the year 1612; and under this the government of
the town is in the controul of a provost, two bailies,
and fifteen councillors. There are no incorporated guilds,
neither have the burgesses any exclusive privileges in
trade ; the magistrates issue tickets of admission to the
freedom of a burgess, without any fee. Courts are held,
both for civil and criminal cases ; but in neither do the
magistrates exercise jurisdiction to any considerable ex-
tent. The burgh is associated with those of Dumfries,
Kirkcudbright, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar, in returning
a member to the imperial parliament; the parliamentary
boundaries are not co-extensive with the royalty, which
comprehends a much wider district ; the number of
qualified voters is about ISO. Anew prison, containing
three cells, was erected some years ago, in lieu of the
old prison, which is dilapidated. A market is held
on Thursday ; and fairs, chiefly for hiring servants, are
held annually, on the first Thursdays in May and August,
H2
ANNA
ANSI
and the third Thursday in October. Facilities of inland
communication are afforded by good roads, of which the
turnpike-road from Dumfries to Carlisle passes through
the parish, and by cross-roads connected with those to
Edinburgh and Glasgow.
The parish is about eight miles in extreme length,
and varies from two and a half to four miles in breadth,
comprising an area of 11,100 acres, of which about 1000
are woodland and plantations, and the remainder arable,
meadow, and pasture. The surface is generally level,
with a slight inclination towards the south, and is inter-
sected by three nearly parallel ridges of moderate height.
Of these, the western ridge terminates in a conical hill
called Woodcock-air, which has an elevation of 320 feet,
and is completely covered with wood ; and on the coast,
are the Annan and Barnkirk hills, of which the former
has an elevation of 256, and the latter of 120 feet above
the sea. The soil, on the banks of the river, is a rich
alluvial deposit ; to the west, a clayey loam, alternated
with gravel ; towards the east, a poor deep loam ; and
in the northern districts, mostly light, with tracts of
moor and moss. The chief crops are grain of all kinds,
and the most improved system of husbandry is generally
in use ; a large open common, of nearly 2000 acres, has
been divided among the burgesses, and is now inclosed
and cultivated ; the farm-buildings are substantial and
well arranged. The pastures are rich ; the cattle are of
the Galloway breed, with a few of the Ayrshire and short-
horned ; there are few sheep reared, but on most of the
farms a considerable number of pigs are fed. Salmon,
grilse, and trout are found in the Annan, and in the
Frith ; and in the former are three fisheries, one the
property of Mr. Irving; the fish taken are, sparling,
cod, haddock, sturgeon, turbot, soles, and skate. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £13,297, including
£5163 for the burgh. The principal substrata are, fine
sandstone well adapted for building, limestone, and
ironstone ; several attempts have been made to discover
coal, which are supposed to have failed only from the
borings not having been made to a sufficient depth.
Mount Annan, the seat of the late Lieut. -Gen. Dirom,
is a handsome mansion, situated on an eminence on the
eastern bank of the Annan, about two miles from the
town, commanding a fine view of the Frith and the
northern counties of England ; the grounds are taste-
fully embellished, and the scenery is picturesque. War-
manbie, on the east bank of the Annan, about half a
mile to the south of Mount Annan, is an elegant man-
sion, erected within the last few years, and surrounded
with pleasure-grounds ; and Northfield House, on the
same river, is also a handsome mansion, recently en-
larged.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Annan and synod of
Dumfries ; the minister's stipend is £279- 2. 4., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per annum; patron,
Hope Johnstone, Esq., of Annandale. The church,
erected in 1790, is a handsome structure, with a spire,
and contains 1190 sittings. A second church, situated
on the south of the town, a very handsome building,
affording accommodation to 950 persons, was erected at
a cost of £1400, and opened in 1842; and there are
also places of worship for Episcopalians, Independents,
Roman Catholics, members of the Free Church, United
Associate Synod, and Relief Church. The parochial
school is attended by nearly 100 children ; the master has
a salary of £31. 16. 6., with a house and garden, and the
fees average about £40 per annum. The Annan academy,
for which a building has been erected, containing commo-
dious class-rooms, was built and endowed with the funds
arising to the burgh from the division of the common
land ; it is under the direction of a rector and two assist-
ant masters, and is attended by 140 pupils; the income
from the endowment is £1 13, and the fees are consider-
able. The only remains of the castle of Annan, are, a
small portion of one of the walls, incorporated in the town-
hall, and a stone built into a wall of a small house, with
the inscription, "Robert de Brus, Comte de Carrick, et
seiniour de Val de Annand, 1300." About two miles
from the town, and to the north of the Carlisle road,
was a rude monument to the memory of the Scots who
fell in a battle with the English, in which the latter were
defeated, with great slaughter ; among the English slain
in the conflict, were, Sir Marmaduke Longdale, Sir
Philip Musgrave, and Lord Howard, whose remains
were interred in the churchyard of Dornock. Close to
the spot, is a well in which the Scots washed their
swords after the battle, and which has since been called
the "Sword Well." Near the site of the castle, is an
artificial mound, supposed to have been the spot for
administering justice, during the times of the Saxons ;
and further up the river, is an elevated bank called
Galabank, the place of execution. On Battle HilJ, has
been lately discovered a mineral spring, of great strength,
which has not yet been analysed. The celebrated Dr.
Thomas Blacklock ; Hugh Clapperton, the African tra-
veller ; and the late Rev. Edward Irving, minister of
the Scottish church in Regent- square, London, were
natives of the place.
ANSTRUTHER EAST-
ER, a burgh, sea-port, and
parish, in the district of St.
Andrew's, county of Fife,
9 miles (S. S. E.) from St.
Andrew's, and 35| (N. E.
by N.) from Edinburgh ;
containing 997 inhabitants.
This place, which is of great
antiquity, was, in the reign
of Malcolm IV., the property
of William de Candela, Lord
of Anstruther, whose sons 'Burgh Seal.
assumed the name of their patrimonial inheritance, and
whose descendants are the present proprietors. It ap-
pears to have derived its early importance from its
favourable situation on the Frith of Forth, and the se-
curity of its harbour, in which, on the dispersion of the
Spanish armada, the captain of one of the vessels found
an asylum from the storm. The town, which was
first lighted with gas in 1841, is separated from the pa-
rish of Anstruther Wester by a small rivulet called the
Dreel burn, over which is a bridge, and consists of a
long narrow street, on the road from the East Neuck of
Fife to Kirkcaldy and Burntisland, extending along
the margin of the Frith. The trade appears to have
been formerly very considerable ; a custom-house was
erected herein 1710, and in 1827, the jurisdiction of the
port was extended to those of St. Andrew's, Crail,
Pittenweem, St. Monan's, and Elie. The amount of
duties once averaged £1500 yearly; ship-building was
A N ST
AN ST
carried on to a considerable extent, but, after gradually
declining for several years, it was at length entirely dis-
continued. The chief manufacture now pursued is that
of leather; barrels are made for the package of herrings
taken off the coast, and more than 40,000 barrels of
them are annually sent from this port, properly cured,
for exportation. The trade at present consists princi-
pally in the fisheries, in the exportation of grain and
other agricultural produce of the surrounding district,
and in the importation of various articles of merchan-
dise for the supply of the neighbourhood. There is
also a large brewery. The number of vessels belonging
to the port is nine, of the aggregate burthen of 964 tons;
two packets ply regularly between this place and Leith,
and the Edinburgh and Dundee steamers touch at the
port. The harbour is safe, and easy of access, and is
protected from the south-easterly winds by a natural
breakwater, and an extensive and commodious quay ;
the custom-house, though an independent establishment,
has, since the decline of the trade, communicated with
that of Kirkcaldy. The market for corn and other pro-
duce, is held on Saturday.
The burgh was incorporated by charter of James VI.,
under which the government was vested in three bailies,
a treasurer, and fifteen councillors, assisted by a town-
clerk and other officers ; the bailies and treasurer are
elected by the council, who are chosen by the registered
£10 electors, under the provisions of the Burgh Reform
act. The bailies are justices of the peace within the
royalty of the burgh, which is coextensive with the
parish, and exercise both civil and criminal jurisdiction;
since 1S20, however, few cases have been tried in the
civil court, and in the criminal court only twelve cases,
chiefly petty misdemeanours : the town-clerk, who is
appointed by the magistrates and council, during plea-
sure, is assessor in the bailies' court. By act of the
2nd and 3rd of William IV., the burgh, together with
those of Cupar, St. Andrew's, Anstruther Wester, and
others, returns one member to the imperial parliament ;
the right of election is vested in the resident burgesses
and £10 householders, and the bailies are the return-
ing officers. The town-hall is a neat building. The
parish is situated at the head of a small bay in the
Frith, and comprises about 9 acres of land, formerly in-
cluded within the parish of Kilrenny, from which they
were separated in the year 1636. The rateable annual
value is £1115. The incumbency is in the presbytery of
St. Andrew's and synod of Fife ; the minister's stipend
is £131. 15., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £25
per annum ; patron, Sir Wyndham Carmichael Anstru-
ther, Bart. The church, built by subscription, in 1634,
and to which a spire was added about ten years after,
•was repaired in 1S34, and is well adapted for 700 per-
sons. There are places of worship for Baptists, Inde-
pendents, and members of the Free Church and the
United Secession. The burgh school is attended by
about 90 scholars ; the master has a salary of £5. 6. 8.,
and about £65 from fees, with a house rent-free. There
are several friendly societies, of which one, called the
" Sea Box Society", established in 161S, and incor-
porated by royal charter, in 1*84, has an income of
£300, for the benefit of decayed ship-masters and sea-
men belonging to the port. The Rev. Dr. Chalmers,
and Professor Tennant, of the university of St. Andrew's,
are natives of the place.
53
Bttr°;h Seal.
ANSTRUTHER WES-
TER, a royal burgh, and pa-
rish, in the district of St.
Andrew's, county of Fife ;
adjoining AnstrutherEaster,
and containing 449 inhabit-
ants, of whom 339 are in the
burgh. This place, of which
the name is supposed to be,
in the Celtic language, de-
scriptive of the low marshy
ground on which the church
was built, is situated on the
Frith of Forth, about six miles to the westward of Fife-
ness. The people, who, during the wars consequent on
the attempt to establish episcopacy, were zealously de-
voted to the Presbyterian form of worship, joined the
Covenanters ; and many of them fell in the battle of
Kilsyth. The town suffered greatly by an inundation
of the sea, in 1670, which greatly injured the harbour,
and undermined the foundations of many of the houses :
a second inundation, which took place towards the end
of that century, swept away the houses in the principal
street, and destroyed nearly one-third part of the town.
The present town is separated from Anstruther Easter
by the Dreel burn, over which a bridge was erected, at
the joint expense of the two burghs, in 1801 ; it has
been much benefited by the widening of the principal
street, and the houses in that, and also in the other
streets, have been considerably improved in their ap-
pearance. The streets are paved and macadamised, and
the town is w:ell lighted, and supplied with water. The
place was erected into a royal burgh by charter of
James VI., in 1587, and the government is vested in a
provost, two bailies, a treasurer, and eleven councillors,
elected annually, the old council choosing the new coun-
cil, and the latter electing the provost, bailies, and trea-
surer. The magistrates hold a bailie court ; but few
cases of civil actions have been brought before it for
some years ; and their jurisdiction, in criminal cases,
seldom extends beyond that of petty offences, in which
they are assisted by the town-clerk, who acts as assessor.
The town-hall is a commodious building. The burgh is
associated with those of Pittenweem, Anstruther Easter,
Kilrenny, and others, in returning a member to the
imperial parliament ; the number of inhabitant house-
holders, of the yearly rent of £10, is twenty-four, of
whom twelve are burgesses.
The parish is bounded on the south by the sea, and
is about two miles in length, and of irregular form,
comprising not more than 600 acres, of which, with the
exception of a few acres of common pasture, the whole
is arable. The soil, near the sea, is, in some parts, a
rich black loam, and in others a light sand mixed with
shells, both of which, though of no great depth, are
very fertile ; in the higher grounds, the soil is of lighter
quality, intermixed with tracts of deep clay. The crops
are grain of all kinds, with potatoes, turnips, and other
green crops ; the lands are chiefly inclosed with stone
dykes, though in some places with hedges of thorn.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £1998.
Grangemuir, the seat of Lord William Douglas, of Du-
nino, a handsome and spacious mansion, built by the late
Mr. Bruce, and greatly enlarged by the present proprie-
tor, is pleasantly situated in grounds laid out with
A N W O
A P PL
much taste. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of St. Andrew's and
synod of Fife ; the minister's stipend is £142. 5. 6., of
which part is paid from the exchequer, with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £22. 10. per annum ; patron, Sir
Wyndham Carmichael Anstruther. The church is a
very ancient structure situated in the burgh, near the
sea-shore. The parochial school is well conducted ; the
master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with £4 per annum,
the interest of a bequest, and a house and garden, and
the school fees average about £75 per annum. There
is a bursary in the college of St. Andrew's, for a scholar
from this parish, endowed by the late William Thomson,
Esq., chief magistrate of the burgh.
ANWOTH, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirk-
cudbright ; containing, with part of the burgh of
barony of Gatehouse, S83 inhabitants. This parish is
bounded on the south by Wigton bay, on the south-east
by the bay of Fleet, and on the east by the river Fleet,
which separates it from the parish of Girthon. It is
about 6| miles in length, and 1\ in breadth, comprising
an area of 10,500 acres, of which nearly one-half is
arable, and the remainder meadow and pasture. The
surface, near the sea-shore, is generally flat, and, to-
wards the north, rises into hills of various elevation, of
which the highest, Cairnharrah, partly in this parish,
but chiefly in that of Kirkmabreek, is 1100 feet above
the sea, and commands an extensive view, embracing
the Isle of Man, part of Cumberland, and the coast of
Ireland. The river Fleet, which has one of its sources
in a small loch of that name, in the parish of Girthon,
after receiving various tributary streams, falls into the
bay of Fleet, from which it is navigable, for about three
miles, to Gatehouse ; salmon, sea-trout, and flounders
are found in this river, but not in any great quantity.
The soil on the coast is dry and fertile, and in other
parts thin and light, but has been much improved by
the use of lime, which is brought from Cumberland, at
a moderate cost ; marl, also, is found in the parish, and
a great abundance of shells on the sea-shore, which are
likewise used for manure. The chief crops are oats and
barley, with some wheat, and potatoes, of which large
quantities are sent to the ports on the Clyde, and to
Whitehaven and Liverpool ; the system of agriculture
has been greatly improved ; the lands have been well
inclosed, and the farm-houses and offices are generally
substantially built. The cattle are mostly of the black
native breed, and the sheep, for which the moorlands
afford good pasture, are principally of the black-faced
kind ; considerable numbers of both are reared in the
parish, and sent to the English markets. There are
some large tracts of ancient wood on the banks of the
river, and in the grounds of the principal landed pro-
prietors ; and the plantations, which are of oak, ash,
birch, and fir, are also extensive, and in a thriving state.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £3717- The
principal mansions are, Cardoness, which has been re-
built within the last twenty years ; and Ardwall and
Rusco, which are of older date. The road from Car-
lisle to Port-Patrick passes along the southern border of
the parish; and the river Fleet, of which the navigation
has been greatly facilitated by the construction of a
canal, by Mr. Murray, of Broughton, affords facility for
coasting vessels bringing supplies of coal, lime, and
various kinds of merchandise, and for the transport of
54
cattle, sheep, and agricultural produce. The ecclesias-
tical affairs are under the superintendence of the pres-
bytery of Kirkcudbright and synod of Galloway ; the
minister's stipend is £230. 15. 2§., with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £10 per annum; patron, Sir David
Maxwell, Bart. The church, erected in 1326, at a cost
of nearly £1200, is a neat structure, with a tower at the
west end surmounted by a spire, and contains 400 sit-
tings. There is a small place of worship for Burghers.
The parochial school is well attended; the master has a
salary of £34. 4. 4., with a house and garden, and the
fees average £20 per annum. The only remains of an-
tiquity are, the Tower of Rusco, and the Castle of Cardo-
ness, both on the river Fleet, the former two miles above
where it ceases to be navigable, and the latter beauti-
fully situated near its mouth ; they are quadrilateral
structures, apparently of great strength, but nothing is
known of their origin or history. On the summit of a
hill to the south-east of the church, are the remains of
a vitrified fort, 300 feet above the level of the sea, and
defended, where most easily accessible, by a double
fosse ; near the spot, have been found several silver
coins of Elizabeth, and one of Edward VI.
APPIN, county of Argyll. — See Lismore.
APPLECROSS, a parish, in the county of Ross and
Cromarty, IS miles (W.) from Lochcarron ; containing,
with the island of Crohn, and part of Shieldag, quoad
sacra, 2861 inhabitants. This parish was originally
called Comaraich, a Gaelic word signifying safety or
protection, on account of the refuge afforded to the
oppressed and to criminals, by a religious establishment
that existed here in ancient times. The present name,
which is of comparatively modern date, was given to the
place by the proprietor of the estate, upon its erection
into a parish, at which time five apple-trees were
planted cross-ways in his garden. The parish, which
formed part of that of Lochcarron till 1726, stretches
along the shore of the Atlantic Ocean, and is distributed
into the three large portions or districts of Applecross,
properly so called ; Lochs, consisting of Torridon, Shiel-
dag, &c. ; and Kishorn. It is of irregular form, 20
miles long, and as many in breadth, and contains about
1800 acres cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, about
400 under wood, and 400 or 500 waste, besides an
immense tract of pasture in a natural state. The surface,
in its general appearance, is hilly and rugged, consisting
of rocky elevations covered with heather and wild grass ;
the climate, though not unhealthy, is foggy, and very
rainy. The soil is light and gravelly, and produces good
crops of oats, barley, and potatoes ; the two former are
grown to the amount, in value, of £3000 annually, and
potatoes and turnips yield about £1500; the farms are
of small extent, averaging in rent not more than £6 or
£7 each. The inclosures are very few, and though
some advances have been made in the draining and
improving of land, the agricultural state is low, the
parish being compelled frequently to import grain and
potatoes for home consumption. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £248S. The rocks consist of red
sandstone, gneiss, and quartz ; at Applecross and
Kishorn are found large quantities of limestone, and at
the latter place is also a copper-mine, which, when
worked some time since, produced a fine rich ore. The
only mansion of note is on the estate of Applecross, and
is a large ancient building, with some elegant modern
APPL
APPL
additions, and surrounded by about 30 acres of thriving
plantation.
At Poldown, Shieldag, and Torridon are convenient
harbours, to which belong about twenty-one vessels of
from 20 to 50 tons' burthen each, employed in the fishing
and coasting trade : most of the population are in some
■way engaged in the herring-fishery, which in certain
seasons is very profitable, and at Torridon and Balgie
are salmon-fisheries that let at £15 or £16. The eccle-
siastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of Loch-
carron and synod of Glenelg ; the Crown is patron ; the
minister's stipend is £15S. 6. 5., partly paid from the
exchequer, and there is a manse, built in 1796, with a
glebe valued at £19, per annum. The parochial church,
which was erected in 1S17, is in good repair, and accom-
modates 600 persons ; and at Shieldag, twelve miles
distant, is a government church, built in 1827- There
is a parochial school, the master of which has a salary
of £"27, with about £8 fees, and teaches the classics,
mathematics, Gaelic, and the ordinary branches of edu-
cation ; and four other schools are supported by
societies for promoting education. Many fossils have
been found, but their nature has not been satisfactorily
ascertained.
APPLEGARTH and SIBBALDBIE, a united parish,
in the district of Annandale, county of Dumfries,
2 miles (N. W. by N.) from Lockerbie ; containing, with
the chapelry of Dinwoodie, S57 inhabitants. The term
Applegarth is compounded of the words Apple and
Garth, the latter of which signifies, in the Celtic lan-
guage, an " inclosure," and both conjoined are inva-
riably taken for an " apple inclosure" or " orchard."
The word bie, or bye, which terminates the name Sib-
baldbie, signifies, in the Saxon, a " dwelling-place," and
is thought to have been applied to the district thus
denominated, from its having been the residence of
Sibbald. The annexation of Sibbaldbie took place in
1609; and the chapelry of Dinwoodie, which some
suppose to have been a distinct parish, was also at-
tached to Applegarth, and is said to have belonged
formerly to the Knights Templars, who had large pos-
sessions in Annandale. Chalmers states, on the autho-
rity of the Royal Wardrobe accounts, that, on the 7th
July, 1300, Edward I., who was then at Applegarth, on
his way to the siege of Caerlaverock, made an oblation
of seven shillings at St. Nicholas' altar, in the parish
church here, and another oblation of a like sum at the
altar of St. Thomas a Becket ; and a large chest was
found some years ago, not very far from the manse,
which is conjectured to have been part of the baggage
belonging to Edward, who remained for several days at
Applegarth, waiting for his equipage. An ancient thorn,
called the " Albie Thorn," is still standing in a field,
within 500 yards of the church, said to have been
planted on the spot where Bell of Albie fell, while in
pursuit of the Maxwells, after the battle of Dryfe-
sands.
The parish contains 11,700 imperial acres, situated in
that part of the shire formerly called the stewartry of
Annandale. The surface is diversified by two principal
ranges of hills, one on each side of the river Dryfe,
which runs from the north-east in a southerly direction ;
the highest part of the western range, Dinwoodie hill,
rises 736 feet above the sea, and Adder Law, in
the eastern range, attains an elevation of 63S feet.
55
In addition to the Dryfe, the parish is washed, on its
eastern boundary, by the Corrie water, and on its
western, by the river Annan, the banks of which streams
are in many parts precipitous, and clothed with brush-
wood and plantations. Among the trees, comprising
most of those common to the country, the larch, spruce,
and Scotch fir, after flourishing for twelve or fourteen
years, exhibit symptoms of decay, and gradually pine
away, in consequence of their roots having come into
contact with the sandstone rock and gravel. In the
rivers and their several tributary streams, eels, pike,
trout, and many smaller fish are numerous : and in the
Annan, salmon is plentiful, and of good quality. The
soil is in general fertile ; the land lying between the
banks of the Annan and Dryfe is alluvial, and inter-
spersed with strata of river gravel ; the land on the
declivity of the western range, in some parts, is sharp
and good, but in many places has a wet and tilly sub-
stratum, and on the higher portions is a black moory
earth. Of the entire area, 7392 acres are either culti-
vated, or occasionally in tillage ; 3777 are waste, or in
permanent pasture, including 60 or 70 acres of moss;
331 are under wood, and about ISO are incurably
barren. Among the white crops, wheat, which was
formerly unknown in the parish, is now an important
article ; all kinds of green crops, also, are raised, of good
quality, including considerable quantities of turnips and
potatoes. The most approved system of husbandry is
followed, though it has not been carried to the same
perfection as in some other districts, chiefly from a
deficiency in manuring and draining the soil. Consider-
able improvements have been made, during the pre-
sent century, in the erection of neat and convenient-
cottages ; and the breed of black-cattle has been particu-
larly attended to, and now, in symmetry and general
excellence, rivals the best specimens of the best districts.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £6850. The
prevailing rock is the old red sandstone, and the western
ridge is interspersed with large nodules of white and
greenish whinstone, while, on the summit, there is grsy-
wacke slate and greenstone, diversified by numerous
veins of quartz.
The only seats of note are, Jardine Hall, built in 1814,
and the mansion of Hook, built in 1S06, the former of
which is of red sandstone, cut from a quarry on Corn-
cockle muir, in Lochmaben parish ; the latter is chiefly of
greenstone, from the bed of the river Dryfe. The inha-
hitants are altogether of the agricultural class, with the
exception of a few tradesmen residing chiefly in the vil-
lage of Milnhouse. The mail-road from Glasgow to
London, by Carlisle, runs through the parish : there
are two good bridges over the Annan, one of which is
on the Glasgow line, and the other on the road lead-
ing from Dumfries, across Annandale, to Eskdale. The
ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the presbytery of
Lochmaben and synod of Dumfries ; patrons, Sir Wil-
liam Jardine, Bart., and John James Hope Johnstone,
Esq., of Annandale. There is a manse, built in 1805,
with a glebe of 6| acres of good land, and the stipend
is £250. The church, a plain substantial structure,
built in 1760, is inconveniently situated at a distance of
five or six miles from some of the population ; it has
been at different times repaired and enlarged, and ac-
commodates 3S0 persons with sittings. There are two
parochial schools, in which Greek, Latin, French, and
A R B L
A R B R
geometry are taught, with all the ordinary branches of
education ; the master of one school has a house and
garden, with a salary of £34. 5., and about £25 fees ;
the other master has the same accommodation, with a
salary of £17. 2. 6., and £15 fees. Roman stations are
visible in several places, and a Roman road traverses
the parish, in a northerly direction. Part of the ruins
still remains of the church of Sibbaldbie ; and a very
ancient ash stands in Applegarth churchyard, measuring
14 feet in girth, at a yard from the ground, and called
the " Gorget Tree," from having been used as a pillory.
The iron staples which held the collar or gorget were
visible not many years ago.
APPLETREE-HALL, a village, in the parish of
Wilton, Hawick district of the county of Roxburgh,
2§ miles (N. N. E.) from Hawick ■ containing 75 inha-
bitants. It is situated in the north-eastern part of the
parish, and to the east of the road from Hawick to
Selkirk.
ARBEADIE, a village, in the parish of Banchory -
Ternan, county of Kincardine ; containing 301 inha-
bitants. This village, which is of very recent origin,
takes its name from that of the estate on which it has
been built, and appears to have been erected to supply
the want of the ancient village of Banchory. A post-
office has been established ; there are three good inns,
and, in the immediate vicinity, a branch of the Bank of
Scotland, and a small lock-up house for the temporary
confinement of petty offenders. The Independents have
a place of worship.
ARBIRLOT, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 2|
miles (\V.) from Arbroath ; containing, with the village
of Bonnington, 1045 inhabitants, of whom 77 are in the
village of Arbirlot. This place appears to have derived
its name, a contraction of Aber-Elliot, from the river
Elliot, which runs into the sea a little below its eastern
boundary. The earliest account connected with its
history, states, that a member of the ancient family of
Ochterlony originally owned the castle of Kelly, in the
parish ; and this family was succeeded by the Irvines,
who also held the castle, which afterwards came into
the possession of the Maule family, now sole pro-
prietors of Arbirlot. The parish is about 4 miles long,
and 3 broad, and contains 5050 acres, of which 4200
are cultivated, or occasionally under tillage, S00 waste,
and 50 wood ; it is intersected by the Arbroath and
Dundee railway, and is bounded on the south by the
sea. It has an extent of coast nearly three miles long,
where the land is level and sandy, and much frequented
in the summer for the purpose of bathing ; in the inte-
rior, also, much of the surface is low and flat, and the
rest gradually rises to a gentle acclivity. There is no
part deserving of particular notice, except the immediate
vicinity of the ancient castle of Kelly, which is situated
on the bank of the Elliot, and is in good preservation,
and surrounded by scenery that is highly picturesque.
The Elliot, a stream of inconsiderable magnitude, but of
great beauty, rises in Ditty Moss, in the parish of Car-
mylie, and, pursuing a south-easterly course for a few
miles, through a deep and romantic glen, falls into the
sea in the east part of the parish ; it has numerous
mills erected upon it, and formerly abounded in salmon,
but since the construction of some dam-dykes near it,
these fish have forsaken it, although it is still frequented
by good trout.
56
The soil in the lower parts, consists chiefly of a light
productive loam, but, on the higher portions, is damp
and mossy, and in some places mixed with clay ; the
subsoil is a gravelly clay : on the northern boundary is
an extensive muir. The average annual produce yields
£15,000, chiefly derived from crops of oats, barley, hay,
and potatoes ; the rateable annual value of the parish is
£6395. The only mansion-house is the seat of Kelly,
situated in the vicinity of the old castle. A small fair is
held once a year. Near the mouth of the river, at
Wormy-hills, is an establishment for bleaching yarns,
and on the same stream are three meal-mills, and a
flax- mill. There is also a meal-mill on a small river
which forms the boundary line between this parish and
Panbride. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the
presbytery of Arbroath and synod of Angus and Mearnsj
the patronage is vested in the Crown, and the minister's
stipend is £184. 4. 5., in addition to which he has a
manse, and a glebe of the annual value of £6. The
church, rebuilt in 1S32, is an elegant structure, situated
on the bank of the Elliot, and containing about 640 sit-
tings. A place of worship has been erected by mem-
bers of the Free Church. There is a parochial school,
the master of which has a salary of £34. 4., and £20
fees, &c, with a house and garden; and a savings'
bank, managed by the minister, and a parochial library,
consisting of above 500 volumes, kept in the manse, are
also supported.
ARBROATH, or Aber-
brothock, a thriving sea-
port, burgh, and parish, in
the county of Forfar, 15
miles (S. E. by E.) from
Forfar, and 58 (N. N. E.)
from Edinburgh; containing, ^h,
with the late quoad sacra ^»
parish of Abbey, and part of
that of Lady-Loan, S707 in-
habitants, of whom 721S are
in the burgh. This place de-
rives its name, originally
Aberbrothock, of which its present appellation is a con-
traction, from its situation at the mouth of the river
Brothock, which falls into the North Sea. An abbey
was founded here in the year 1 17S, by William the
Lion, King of Scotland, for monks of the Tyronensian
order, brought from the abbey of Kelso, and was dedi-
cated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, in honour of the
Archbishop Thomas a Becket. This establishment was
amply endowed by the founder and his successors, and
its abbots had a seat in parliament; in 1320, a general
assembly of the Estates of Scotland was held in the
abbey, when a declaration was drawn up, in strong and
emphatic terms, asserting the independence of the
Scottish Church of the Roman see, and renouncing all
subjection to the interference of the pope. In 1445, a
battle took place here, between the retainers of the
families of Lindsay and Ogilvie, which originated in a
contest concerning the election of a bailie of the burgh,
and in which the chieftains on both sides were killed,
and nearly 500 of their dependents. In the 16th cen-
tury, the abbey was nearly destroyed by Ochterlony, a
chieftain in the neighbourhood, who, having quarrelled
with the monks, set fire to the buildings ; and at the
Dissolution, which followed a few years afterwards, this
Seal and Arms.
A II B 11
A It B R
once extensive pile was little more than a wide heap
of scattered ruins. The revenues were returned at
£2483. 5. in money, with ahout 340 chalders of grain,
and the patronage of thirty-four parish churches; and
the site and lands belonging to the abbey, were, after
its dissolution, erected into a temporal lordship, in
favour of Claude Hamilton, third son of the Duke of
Chatelherault, who was created Lord Arbroath, which
still forms one of the inferior titles of the Duke of
Hamilton. In 1781 , the town was menaced by the
commander of a French privateer, who approached the
port, and commenced a brisk firing for a short time,
which was succeeded by his sending a flag of truce, de-
manding from the provost and inhabitants the payment
of £30,000, as a ransom for the town, which, on their
refusal, he threatened to set on fire. The authorities of
the place obtained, by parley, a short interval, in which
having armed several of the inhabitants, they set him at
defiance, and he left the coast, making prizes of some
small craft which he met with in his retreat. A battery
was soon afterwards erected, in front of the harbour, to
protect the town from similar insult, and was kept up
till the termination of the last war, when it was dis-
mantled.
The town is situated at the mouth of the river Bro-
thock, and consists principally of one spacious and
handsome street, intersected by several of inferior ap-
pearance, extending into the parish of St. Vigean's, and
forming suburbs. Many of the private houses are elegant
and substantial, and all of the houses are built of the
stone obtained from the valuable quarries in the neigh-
bourhood ; the villas in the suburbs are embellished
with gardens and shrubberies, which produce a pleasing
effect, and the general aspect of the town is prepossess-
ing. The streets are lighted with gas made by a joint-
stock company ; but the supply of water is rather in-
different, and is partly derived from private wells. There
is a public subscription library, supported by a proprietary
of £5 shareholders, in which is a collection of about 4000
volumes on subjects of general literature ; and smaller
libraries, of miscellaneous and theological works, are
attached to the quoad sacra churches. A mechanics'
library, now containing about 400 volumes, was establish-
ed in 1S24, and connected with it is a mechanics' insti-
tution, or school of arts, for which an appropriate build-
ing has been completed, containing a reading-room well
supplied with periodicals and newspapers ; there are also
three masonic lodges and a gardener's society. The prin-
cipal manufactures are, the spinning of yarn from flax
and tow, the weaving of canvass and sail-cloth, brown and
bleached linens, the tanning of leather, the making of
candles, the smelting of iron, and the grinding of bones
for manure. The number of mills for spinning yarn
is nineteen, of which by far the greater part are in
the suburbs, affording employment, at present, to
nearly 3770. and, when trade is prosperous, to more
than 5000, persons, of whom about one-fourth are
females. The trade of the port consists chiefly in the
exportation of the manufactured goods, especially sail-
cloth, of which nearly 7000 ells were exported in a
late year, and in the importation of bark, flax, hemp,
hides, oak, and fir timber, and guano for manure, with
groceries from London, and numerous articles of Baltic
produce. There are at present belonging to the port S9
vessels, of the aggregate burthen of 9100 tons; and
Vol. I.— 57
the number of vessels that entered inwards, in a recent
year, was 599, of which 56 were from foreign ports, and
543 employed in the coasting trade.
The harbour appears to have been first constructed
in 1394, by the inhabitants, in conjunction with the
abbot, who contributed the greater portion of the ex-
pense, in consideration of a certain duty to be paid
annually from the lands of the burgh. A pier of wood
was erected at the extremity of the High-street, which,
being found ill-adapted to the purpose, was abandoned
in 1725, and the harbour removed to the western side
of the river, where a basin faced with stone was con-
structed, 124 yards in length, and SO yards in breadth,
and a substantial pier of stone built. These improve-
ments, however, at length became insufficient, and in
1839 an act of parliament was obtained, under which a
spacious new tidal harbour has been completed to the
south and east of the old one, at a cost of £50,000. A
sea-wall of great length and solidity defends the harbour
from the violence of the waves during heavy gales, and
at the western extremity of this bulwark is a lighthouse.
Between the wall and a massive breakwater opposite to
it, is the entrance to the harbour. The port was formerly
a. creek to the harbour of Montrose ; but it has been
made completely independent, and has now a collector of
customs, a comptroller, and other officers of its own,
established on the spot. Connected with the harbour is
a patent-slip for repairing vessels, which is maintained by
the harbour commissioners. At a distance of twelve
miles from the shore, but opposite to the harbour, is the
Bell Rock Lighthouse, erected under an act of parliament
obtained in 1806, and completed in 1811; it is built
upon a rock about 427 feet in length, and 230 feet in
breadth, at low water, and rising to an average height of
about four feet from the sea. The lighthouse is of cir-
cular form ; the two lower courses of masonry, all of
which are dove-tailed, are sunk into the rock : the dia-
meter, at the base, is 42 feet, gradually diminishing to
the floor of the light room, which is 13 feet in diameter.
From the foundation, the elevation is solid, to the
entrance, which is at a height of 30 feet, and is attained
by a ladder of ropes with steps of wood ; the walls here
are 7 feet in thickness, and gradually decrease to one
foot at the lantern, which has an elevation of 100 feet
from the base, and is 15 feet in height, and of octagonal
form. The lantern contains a light of Argand burn-
ers, with powerful reflectors, revolving round its axis in
six minutes, and in each revolution displaying, alter-
nately, a bright and a deep red light, which, in clear
weather, may be plainly seen at a distance of eighteen
miles. Two large bells connected with the lighthouse,
are tolled by the machinery which moves the lights,
when the weather is foggy ; and on the harbour of Ar-
broath, a building has been erected for the accommoda-
tion of the keepers, three of whom are constantly at. the
lighthouse for six weeks, when they are relieved, and
spend two weeks on shore. Attached to these buildings,
is a signal tower, 50 feet high, by means of which the
keepers on the shore communicate with those on the
rock ; the whole expense of the lighthouse, which is of
such important benefit to the navigation of this part of the
coast, did not exceed £60,000. The Arbroath and Forfar
railway, constructed by a company empowered to raise a
capital of £ 150,000 by shares, and a loan of £35,000, was
completed, and opened to the public, in January, 1S39;
I
A R B R
A R B R
the line is 15 miles in length, worked by locomotive-
engines, and the principal station is a handsome building
with every requisite accommodation. The Dundee and
Arbroath railway, along the coast, has also its terminal
station here, and is connected with the Arbroath and
Forfar railroad. The market is on Saturday, and is
supplied with grain of all kinds ; and fairs are held on
the last Saturday in January, the first Saturday after
Whit-Monday, the 18th of July, and the first Saturday
after Martinmas.
The town was made a royal burgh by a charter of
James VI., in 1599, reciting that the original charters,
with the title-deeds of the town, and other documents,
were taken from the abbey, where they had been depo-
sited for security, and destroyed by George, Bishop of
Moray; the inhabitants appear to have been before
incorporated by the abbots, who reserved to themselves
the nomination of one of the bailies by whom the town
was governed. By King James's confirmatory charter
of all pi-evious rights and privileges, the burgh and har-
bour were made free, and the lands called the common
muir were conveyed to the burgesses, with power to
levy anchorage customs and shore dues, and to apply
the produce to the maintenance of the harbour ; the
amount of harbour dues is £3000 a year, but the cor-
poration do not now receive them. Under this charter,
the government is vested in a provost, two bailies, a
dean of guild, and treasurer, with twelve councillors,
all chosen subject to the provisions of the late Municipal
Reform act. There are seven incorporated trades, the
whole of which have the exclusive right of carrying on
their trades within the burgh, with the exception of the
weavers ; the dean of guild also grants temporary
license to trade. The magistrates possess all the juris-
diction appendant to royal burghs, and hold courts of
pleas in. civil actions weekly, to an unlimited extent,
and also criminal courts, in which, though, by the
charter, they have full jurisdiction in capital cases, they
confine themselves to the trial of petty offences, the
town-clerk acting as assessor. The magistrates have
also, by the charter, power to replevy any action what-
ever against an inhabitant of the burgh, from all judges
in the kingdom, upon giving security for administering
justice within the term of law. The dean of guild like-
wise holds a court for enforcing compliance with the
acts of parliament respecting weights and measures, in
which he is assisted by a clerk and procurator-fiscal.
Previously to the union of the two kingdoms, the burgh
sent a member to the Scottish parliament, but after that
event was associated with Montrose, Brechin, Bervie, and
Aberdeen, in returning a representative to the imperial
parliament ; and the only change in this respect, under
the act of the 3rd and 4th of William IV., is the substi-
tution of Forfar in lieu of Aberdeen, and the extension
of the elective franchise to £10 householders. The
provost is the returning officer. The guildhall is a neat
plain edifice, adapted for the business of the guild cor-
poration ; and the trades'-hall, erected in 1814, is a
handsome building. The town-house, erected in 1806,
is a spacious and elegant structure, comprising a great
hall, and offices for the town-clerk and others, with
apartments for the meeting of the council, and for hold-
ing courts. At a short distance behind the town-house,
stands the new gaol for the burgh, with the gaoler's
house, and a police-office, the whole forming a neat
58
building ; the cells are constructed on the best modern
principles, and are well arranged for the health and
classification of the prisoners. In the court-room for
the police department, which is commodious though
small, the magistrates of the town sit regularly every
week, on Monday, for the summary disposal of petty
delinquencies.
The parish is about three miles in length, and of
very irregular form, varying from little more than 200
yards t'o a mile and a quarter in breadth, and comprises
820 acres of arable, and twenty-six of common land in
pasture ; the surface is comparatively level, rising by a
gradual ascent from the shore, till, at the opposite ex-
tremity, it attains an elevation of 150 feet above the
sea. The only river is the Brothock, which rises in the
adjoining parish of St. Vigean's, and, after a course of
five or six miles, flows through this parish, for about a
quarter of a mile, and falls into the sea at the harbour.
A small stream which, in its course, gives motion to
several spinning-mills, forms a tributary to the Bro-
thock ; but, unless when swollen with incessant, rains,
it is comparatively a shallow stream. The scenery is
pleasingly varied ; and the town, as seen from the
sea, is an interesting feature, seated in the curve of a
range of small hills, which rise behind it, and command
an extensive prospect of the Lothians, the eastern por-
tion of the coast of Fife, and the estuaries of the Forth
and Tay, towards the south ; the view terminating, to-
wards the north, in the range of the Grampian hills.
The soil, near the town, is a rich black loam ; in the
higher lands, thin, resting upon a retentive clay, which
renders it scarcely susceptible of improvement ; and
along the coast, light and sandy. The chief crops
are, grain of all kinds, potatoes, and turnips ; guano is
used for manure, and the farms are, in general, well
arranged and skilfully managed. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £17,314. A fishery is carried on
with considerable success ; cod, haddock, and flounders
are taken in abundance off the coast, with herrings and
mackerel, in their season ; lobsters, crabs, and various
kinds of shell-fish, are found in great plenty, and at-
tempts have been made to procure a supply of salmon,
by the putting down of stake-nets, but hitherto without
much success.
The parish is the seat of the presbytery of Arbroath,
within the synod of Angus and Mearns ; patron, the
Crown. The minister's stipend is £219. 12. 6., with
glebe valued at £4. 8. 11.; there is also an assistant
minister, with a stipend of £75, appointed by the Kirk
Session. The church, which was enlarged in 1764, and
to which an elegant spire was added in 1831, at an
expense of £1300, raised mostly by subscription, is a
plain cruciform structure, situated nearly in the centre
of the town, and adapted for 1390 persons. A chapel
of ease was erected in 1797, on the grounds of the
ancient abbey, and is thence called the Abbey chapel ;
it is a neat edifice for a congregation of about 12S0, and
a quoad sacra parish has been annexed to it, comprising
a population of 22S9 ; income of the minister, about
£100. Another chapel of ease was erected in 1829, for
the accommodation of the inhabitants of that portion of
the suburbs within the parish of St. Vigean's ; it is a
neat structure, and contains 1080 sittings, from the
rents of which the minister derives an income of £150 ;
a district named Inverbrothock has been attached to it,
A R B R
A R B U
containing 5195 persons. The church of Lady-Loan is
also of recent date, and in the town. There are places
of worship for Episcopalians, Free Church congrega-
tions, members of the United Secession, members of the
Relief Synod, Original Seceders, and Independents ;
and for smaller congregations of Baptists, Bereans,
Glassites, and Wesleyans. The burgh school, and also
the parochial school, have merged into an institution of
more recent establishment, called the Academy, for
which a handsome and appropriate building was erected
in 1821, at an expense of £1600, raised chiefly by sub-
scription. This institution is under the controul of a
rector, appointed by the corporation, and three masters,
chosen by the directors; to each of these, a distinct
department is assigned, and there are consequently four
separate schools. The classical and mathematical school
is under the superintendence of the rector, whose salary
is £34 per annum, with an allowance of £6. 10. for
house-rent, which, augmented by the proceeds of a be-
quest by Mr. Colvill, for the gratuitous instruction of
five children, amounts to £60 per annum ; and the
commercial, English, and general schools are under the
three masters, who have a salary of £25 each, exclusive
of the school fees. All these salaries are paid from the
various funds constituting the endowment of the schools.
The Sabbath-evening School Society, which has been
established for more than twenty-five years, compre-
hends the whole of the town and suburbs ; and connected
with the schools under its superintendence, is a library
of more than 1100 volumes, containing many standard
and valuable works, in addition to such as are requisite
for the children attending them. Mr. Carmichael, in
1733, bequeathed £600, and some rent-charges, for the
benefit of seven widows of ship-masters, producing, at
present, about £130 per annum ; and Mr. John Colvill,
late town-clerk, in 1811, left £10 per annum to the
minister of the Episcopal chapel, £10 per annum to the
poor of the parish, and a sum for the assistance of
twenty householders, which now produces to each
£3. 10. annually.
The chief relics of antiquity are the remains of the
abbey, which occupied an area of 1150 feet in length,
and about "00 in wridth, inclosed by a stone wall nearly
24 feet in height ; at the north-west angle, is a tower
24 feet square, and 70 feet high, which is still entire,
and at the south-west angle was another of smaller
dimensions, which, becoming ruinous, was taken down.
The principal entrance was through a stately gateway
tower on the north side, defended by a portcullis and
draw-bridge ; and at the south-east angle, was a postern
of inferior character, called the Darngate. On the
north side of the inclosure, was the abbey church, of
which only the south wall, with the east and west gables,
and a portion of the two western towers, are remaining.
The church is said to have been 270 feet in length, and
130 in breadth across the transepts ; the nave, of which
the length was 148 feet, was nearly 70 feet in height,
but none of the columns that supported the roof are
standing, though their bases have been laid open during
the recent operations for restoring the ruins under the
direction of the crown. The choir appears to have been
more than 75 feet long ; but little of the original cha-
racter of this once proud pile can be discovered. The
western entrance is tolerably entire, and there seems
to have been a circular window above the doorway; but
59
the portions of the towers by which it was flanked, are
so dilapidated that scarcely any indications of their
original style of architecture remain. Adjoining the
south transept, are the remains of a building supposed to
have been the chapter-house, containing a vaulted apart-
ment ; the cloisters have disappeared, and the remains
of the abbot's palace have been converted into a private
dwelling-house. In 1815, the ruins of the abbey were
so far repaired as to secure them from absolute demo-
lition ; on the removal of the accumulated rubbish for
this purpose, the pavement of the church was partially
restored to view, and a diligent search was made, to
discover the tomb of its royal founder, who was buried
under the first step of the flight leading to the high
altar, but only the lid of an ancient stone coffin, sculp-
tured with the figure of a man, in alto-relievo, much
mutilated, was found. Some scattered bones, indeed,
have been collected, and placed in a box, which have been
sometimes displayed as those of the king : but there is
no foundation for the opinion, and though the fact of
that monarch having been interred in the abbey, is
generally accredited, yet every search for his tomb has
been in vain. Cardinal Beaton, at that time also arch-
bishop of St. Andrew's, was the last abbot of Aber-
brothock. The place gives the inferior title of Baron to
the ducal family of Hamilton.
ARBUTHNOTT, a parish, in the county of Kin-
cardine, adjoining the town of Bervie, and containing
1015 inhabitants. The name of this place has under-
gone many changes in its pronunciation and spelling ;
but, from documents in the possession of the Arbuth-
nott family, it appears that, previously to the 12th cen-
tury, it was called Aberbothenothe, which form, about
the year 1335, had been changed to Aberbuthnot, and,
in 1443, to the mode it now retains. The original term
signifies " the confluence of the water below the Baron's
house," and is descriptive of the site of the ancient
castle and of the present mansion-house, upon the
narrow point of a projection overlooking the water of
Bervie, which stream is joined by a rapid rivulet, for-
merly of considerable breadth, about 100 yards distant
from the mansion. The parish, in the early history of
which the Arbuthnotts have held the most conspicuous
place, contains 9423 acres, of which 6200 are in tillage,
250 plantations, and 2223 uncultivated. It is inter-
sected by the road from Stonehaven to Brechin, and is
bounded on the north by the river Forthy, which sepa-
rates it from Glenbervie ; and on the south and west, by
the water of Bervie, dividing it from the parishes of Ber-
vie, Fordoun, and Lawrencekirk. The surface, which is
altogether irregular, being much diversified by hill and
dale, rises on every side from the valley of the Bervie
water, the windings of which, between steep and richly-
wooded banks, present, in many parts, interesting and
beautiful scenery ; the highest land is Bruxiehill, which
has an elevation of about 650 feet above the sea. The
only stream worthy of notice is the Bervie, which, in
summer, is small, and slow in its course, flowing at the
rate of about a mile per hour; hut, in the rainy seasons,
it rises rapidly, the flood being considerably augmented
through the medium of the agricultural drains ; and
embankments, to some extent, have been found neces-
sary, to secure the neighbouring lands against the havoc
consequent upon its overflowing.
The soil, towards the southern quarter, is a strong
12
A R B U
A II D C
clay, with a cold retentive subsoil, and in the direction
of the northern boundary, light and dry ; there is also
some rough wet pasture and moor, but this kind of land
has been greatly ameliorated and recovered by recent
drainage : the chief crops are, grain of different kinds,
potatoes, turnips, and beet-root. The parish is alto-
gether agricultural, and the cultivation of the soil is
carried on with great spirit. ; the five and seven years'
rotation of crops are each followed, but the latter is
here thought to succeed the best; and bone-dust, as
manure, has been applied with advantage on light soils,
where the turnips are eaten off by the sheep. The wood
planted consists of Scotch fir, larch, spruce, cbesnut,
poplar, hazel, and almost every species known in the
country ; and above twenty different kinds of oak,
chiefly American, have been introduced into the nursery,
by Lord Arbuthnott, with a view to plantation. Im-
provements have been vigorously and successfully car-
ried on, chiefly consisting of an extensive and efficient
drainage of the lands, the cultivation of much barren
soil, and the construction of embankments along the
course of the Bervie, for the protection of the fertile
haughs through which it runs. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £6592. The rocks are mostly coarse
sandstone, trap, and what in the country is called
scurdy; blocks of gneiss and granite are sometimes seen;
on the north bank of the Bervie, pebbles beautifully
varied have been found imbedded in trap ; and calca-
reous spar, heavy spar, and veins of manganese also
exist. In the deepest part of a small peat-bog called
the " Hog's Hole," the skeletons of two red deer were
recently found, the antlers of whose horns were seven
and eight in number, and some of them measuring
eighteen inches in length. Arbuthnott House, the seat
of the ancient and noble family of Arbuthnott, is beau-
tifully situated on the Bervie, almost concealed by
thriving plantations; it has. been greatly improved by
the present owner ; the grounds are laid out with much
taste, and the mansion is approached by a fine avenue
of beech-trees, upwards of two centuries old. In the
library of his lordship are, the missal used in the paro-
chial church in former times, and the psalter and office
belonging to a chapel connected with the church, and
dedicated to the Virgin Mary; the penmanship is ex-
ceedingly beautiful, and many parts are splendidly illu-
minated. The castle of Allardyce, also on the bank of
the river, and which has been recently repaired, is the
property of the ancient family of Allardyce ; and the
house of Kair is a modern mansion, of neat and elegant
appearance.
The ecclesiastical affairs are regulated by the pres-
bytery of Fordoun and synod of Angus and Mearns ;
the patronage belongs to Viscount Arbuthnott, and the
minister's stipend is £225, with a manse, and a glebe
of the annual value of £9. The church, which, though
much altered and enlarged, is probably four centuries
old, and was, in former times, dedicated to St. Ternan,
is situated near the north bank of the river, about three
miles distant from the furthest extremity of the parish.
An aisle, of finely-hewn ashlar, and elegantly constructed,
was added to it, on the south-east, in 1505, by Sir
Robert Arbuthnott, who also repaired and improved the
west gable, on which was placed a round tower; and
this aisle, which is now the burial-place of the family,
contains an old full-length statue, of stone, of Hugh
60
de Arbuthnott. There is a parochial school, the master
of which has the maximum salary, with house and
garden, and about £10 fees ; and a savings' bank, esta-
blished in June, 1822, is in a prosperous condition.
The celebrated and learned Alexander Arbuthnott, first
Protestant principal of King's College, Aberdeen, was a
native of the parish, and some time its minister, to
which office he was appointed in 1567 ; and the well-
known Dr. Arbuthnott, physician to Queen Anne, and
one of the triumvirate with Pope and Swift, was born
here in 1667. The place gives the title of Viscount to
the familv of Arbuthnott.
ARCHIESTOWN, a village, in the parish of Knock-
ando, county of Elgin; containing 174 inhabitants.
This is the only village in the parish, and is of modern
origin, having been commenced about 1760, by Sir
Archibald Grant, the greatgrandfather of Sir James
Grant, of Moneymusk, the present baronet. It is built
on the moor of Ballintomb, and consists of a double row
of houses, about three-quarters of a mile in length, hav-
ing a square in the centre, of about half an acre, and
some by-lanes. The village suffered severely in 17S3,
from an accidental fire, but it has latterly recovered from
this calamity, and several new houses have been erected
very recently. In a preaching station, which accom-
modates about 200 persons, divine service is performed
once a month, by the minister of the parochial church ;
and a few dissenters belonging to the Associate Synod,
also occasionally assemble here. There are schools
likewise, which open and close with prayer.
ARDCHATTAN, a parish, in the district of Lorn,
county of Argyll, S miles (E. N. E.) from Oban; con-
taining 2421 inhabitants, of whom 960 are in the quoad
sacra parish of Muckairn. This place is supposed to
have derived its name from Catan, who accompanied St.
Columba to Scotland, about the year 563 ; and from its
mountainous aspect, of which the term Ardchattan is
also descriptive, signifying " the hill" or " promontory
of Catan." It obtained, for some time, the appellation
of Bal Mhoadan, or " the residence of Moadan," in
honour of whom a church was erected in the vicinity,
which afterwards became the church of the parish o.
Kilmodan ; and that portion of the parish which is
comprehended between the river Awe and Loch Etive,
still retains the name of Benderloch, descriptive of a
mountainous district between two arms of the sea. The
parish is bounded on the north by the river and loch
of Creran ; on the south and east, by Loch Etive, and
the river and loch of Awe ; and on the west by Loch
Linnhe ; and, exclusively of Muckairn, is about 40
miles in length, and 10 miles in average breadth. The
surface is generally mountainous, but diversified with
several glens and valleys of considerable extent, some
richly embellished with wood, and displaying much
romantic scenery ; the level lands are intersected with
numerous streams, and the hills of more moderate
height are crowned with plantations. With the excep-
tion of the valley of Glenure and a few other spots, the
only arable lands are towards the north and east, beyond
which little cultivation is found ; lofty mountains, in
various directions, rise so abruptly from the sides of the
lakes, as to leave little land that can be subjected to the
plough.
Of these mountains, the principal is Ben-Cruachan,
the highest in the county, having an elevation of 3669
A R D C
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feet above the sea, and rising from a base of more than
twenty miles in circumference ; the acclivity, towards
the vale of Glencoe, is precipitously steep, but from the
south, behind Inverawe, the ascent is more gradual, ter-
minating in two conical summits commanding a most
unbounded prospect. Ben-Cochail, to the north of it,
though little inferior in height, appears much diminished
by comparison ; and Ben-Starive, still further up the
lake, rises from abase of large extent, to an elevation of
2500 feet. The acclivities of the latter, of barren aspect,
are deeply furrowed ; and in the channels of the streams
which descend from it, are found beautiful crystals,
little inferior to the cairngorms of the Grampians. Ben-
Nan-Aighean, or the " mountain of the heifers," to the
south of Ben-Starive, rises to a great height, terminat-
ing in a peak of granite ; for about, half way up the ac-
clivities it affords tolerable pasture, and is thence
rugged and barren to its summit ; rock crystals are
found near its base, and in the beds of its numerous
streams. Ben-Chaorach, or the "mountain of the
sheep," near Ben-Starive, is of inferior height, but
affords good pasturage. Ben-Ketlan, to the north of it,
is of greater elevation, and presents a finer outline,
bounded on the one side of its base by the Alt-Ketlan
stream, and by the Ait-Chaorach on the other ; it is the
most fertile of the mountains. Two most conspicuous
mountains called Buachail-Etive, or the " keepers of the
Etive," and situated near the termination of the lake of
that name, are distinguished by the names Buacha'U-Mor
and Buachail-Beg, from the respective extent of their
bases, though neither of them has an elevation of less
than 3000 feet. Ben-Veedan, called also Ben-Nambian,
or the " mountain of the deer-skins," from the number
of deer which are killed there, is separated from Bua-
chail-Beg by the mountain-pass of Larig-Aoilt, a stu-
pendous range scarcely inferior, in elevation, to Ben-
Cruachan, and which opens into the vale of Glencoe.
Ben-Treelahan, on the west side of Loch Etive, which
washes its base for nearly five miles, and Ben-Starive,
on the opposite side, greatly contract the breadth of the
lake, and, by their rugged aspect, spread over it a
romantic gloom hardly surpassed in mountain scenery.
In the north-east of the parish, also, are other moun-
tains, of which the principal are, Ben-Aulay, the highest
of the range; Ben-Scoullard, Ben-Vreck, Ben-Molurgan,
and Ben-Vean.
Of the numerous glens interspersed between the
mountains, is Glen-Noe, about four miles in length, and
one mile in breadth, inclosed on the north side by Ben-
Cruachan, and on the south by Ben-Cochail ; it is
clothed with rich verdure, and watered throughout by a
stream, of which the banks, as it approaches the sea,
are finely wooded. A house has been built near the
opening, for the residence of the farmer who rents it,
than which a more delightful summer retreat can
scarcely be imagined. Glen-Kinglas is about nine miles
in length, and nearly two in breadth, and watered by
the river to which it gives name ; the north side is
rocky and barren, but the south affords excellent pas-
ture. It formerly abounded with timber, which was
felled for charcoal, by an iron-smelting company, about
a century since ; but, with the exception of a few alders
on the banks of the river, and some brushwood of little
value, it is now destitute of wood. Glen-Ketlan, in-
closed on one side by the mountain of that name, is
61
about two miles in length, and watered by the river
Etive, which enters it, about three miles from the head
of Loch Etive. Glen-Etive commences at the head of the
lake of that name, and is more than sixteen miles in
length ; it was formerly a royal forest, of which the
hereditary keeper claims exemption from certain pay-
ments. One portion of the glen, with a contiguous tract
in the parish of Glenorchy, has been stocked with red
deer, by the Marquess of Breadalbane, and another por-
tion of it has been appropriated by Mr. Campbell, of
Monzie, to the same purpose. The whole tract is
marked throughout by features of sublimity and gran-
deur, though stripped of the majestic timber with which
it was anciently embellished. Glen-Vre, or the " glen
of yew-trees," opens from the river Creran, and ex-
pands to the south and east, for about three miles;
near the river are the dilapidated remains of the ancient
mansion of the family of Glenure, and adjacent is the
farm of Barnamuch, which has been always famed for
the richness of its pastures. The remote extremity of
the glen is marked with features of rugged grandeur.
Glen-Dindal, or Glen-Dow, about seven miles to the
west of Glenure, is three miles in length, and, in the
lower part, luxuriantly wooded ; it is frequented by
numbers of fallow deer, originally introduced about the
middle of the last century. Glen-Salloch, the most
elevated of the glens, is situated between Loch Etive
and Loch Creran, and extends from south to north, for
about six miles ; it comprehends much variety of sce-
nery, and the views from any point commanding either
of the lakes, are romantically picturesque.
The principal lakes are, Loch Etive, and Loch Creran ;
the former branches from the Linnhe loch, near Dun-
staffnage Castle, and extends eastward to Bunawe, after
which, taking a northern direction among the mountains,
it terminates at Kinloch Etive. It is about twenty-two
miles in length, varying from less than a quarter of a
mile to more than a mile and a half in breadth, and is
from 20 to 100 fathoms in depth. The bay affords safe
anchorage to vessels not exceeding 100 tons ; and at.
Connel Ferry, near the western extremity, the tide rises
to a height of 14 feet, forming in the narrow channel,
which is not more than 200 yards in width, and ob-
structed by a ledge of rock, a foaming and apparently
terrific rush of water, which the skill of the boatmen
has rendered available, to facilitate the passage. There
is another ferry across the lake at Bunawe, opposite to
which is the small island of Elan-Duirnish, inhabited
only by the family of the ferryman, and connected with
the mainland, on the opposite shore, by a stone cause-
way, along which passes a road which afterwards di-
verges to Inverary and Glenorchy. Loch Creran issues
from the Linnhe loch, near the island of Griska, "and
extends in a north-easterly direction, for about twelve
miles, the breadth, on an average, being a mile and a
half. It is about 15 fathoms in depth, and the spring
tides rise from 15 to 16 feet; the bay, having a clayey
bottom, affords good anchorage, and there is a ferry
across the loch at Shean, in the narrowest part. It lias
several barren and uninhabited islets ; and the island of
Griska, which is well wooded, contains a considerable
portion of pasture and arable land, forming a very com-
pact farm.
Among the chief rivers is the Awe, which, issuing
from the loch of that name, and flowing between richly-
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wooded banks, after a course of about four miles, falls
into Loch Etive, at Bunawe. The Etive, which has its
source near Kings-house, in the parish, flows in a
westerly and south-westerly direction, and, gradually
expanding in its progress, after a course of nearly six-
teen miles, falls into Loch Etive, near its head. The
Kinglas has a course of about twelve miles to the south-
west, flowing through a channel of rock and granite ; its
waters are remarkably transparent, and salmon are
found in numbers. The Liver, which rises to the south
of the Kinglas, flows for about six miles in a westerly
direction, and falls into Loch Etive, at Inverliver. The
Noe, which waters the glen of that name, has a course
of four miles between rugged mountains, and, near its
confluence with Loch Etive, forms a romantic cascade.
The Creran, which has its source near Ben-Aulay, flows
for nearly twelve miles, westerly, and, after passing-
through the inland lake of Fasnacloich, forms a channel
navigable for small boats, and falls into the sea at the
head of Loch Creran. The Ure has a course of about
seven miles in a northerly direction, and, passing to the
west of Glenure House, falls into the river Creran. The
Tended has a westerly course of about six miles, through
the glen of that name, and forms several interesting
cascades. The Bide, after a course of little more than
three miles, and the Dergan, which rises in the heights
of Glen-Salloch, both fall into Loch Creran ; and the
Esragan-More, and the Esragan-Beg, separated by the
mountain of Ben-Vean, after a course of about five miles,
fall into Loch Etive. The rivers generally, in their
course, form numerous cascades, of which many, espe-
cially those of the mountainous districts, are incompa-
rably beautiful.
Though generally a pastoral district, there is still a
considerable portion of arable land, estimated at about
1700 acres ; the soil is chiefly a light loam, requiring
much manure, but producing good crops of oats, bear,
potatoes, and turnips. The farm-houses, with very few
exceptions, are of an inferior order, thatched with straw,
and ill adapted to the purpose. Great numbers of cat-
tle and sheep are fed in the pastures, and considerable
attention is paid to the rearing of stock; the cattle are
of the Highland black breed, and on the dairy-farms,
the cows are of the Ayrshire breed. The sheep, which
were originally of the small white-faced kind, have been
almost entirely superseded by the black-faced, and a few
of the Cheviot breed have been recently introduced ;
the number of sheep reared annually is estimated at
32,000. About 2700 acres are woodland and planta-
tions ; the coppices are chiefly oak, ash, birch, and
mountain-ash ; and the plantations consist of ash,
beech, elm, sycamore, larch, and Scottish and spruce
firs, all of which are in a thriving state. The rateable
annual value of Ardchattan and Muckairn is £10,987.
Lead-ore has been discovered on the farm of Drimvuick,
but not wrought ; large boulders of granite are found in
abundance, and on the upper shore of Loch Etive, a
quarry has been opened by the Marquess of Breadal-
bane, from which are raised blocks of large size, and of
very superior quality. The principal mansions in the
parish are, Lochnell House, originally built by Sir Dun-
can Campbell, and improved, at an expense of £15,000,
by General Campbell, his successor ; Barcaldine House,
recently enlarged, and beautifully situated in a richly-
wooded demesne ; Ardchattan Priory, a portion of the
62
ancient convent, converted into a private residence ;
Inverawe House, pleasantly situated on the banks of the
Awe, and surrounded with stately timber ; and Drim-
vuick House, a pleasant residence. There is a post-office
at Bunawe, about four miles distant from the church j
the mail from Fort-William, likewise, passes through a
portion of the parish, and facility of communication is
afforded by good roads. A fair for cattle and horses,
which is also a statute-fair, is held at Shean Ferry twice
in the year.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the super-
intendence of the presbytery of Lorn and synod of
Argyll ; the minister's stipend is £233. 3. 2., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £8 per annum ; patron,
Archibald Campbell, Esq., of Lochnell. The church,
erected in 1S36, is a neat structure, situated on the
north shore of Loch Etive, and containing 430 sittings.
There is a preaching station at Inverghiusachaw, in Glen-
Etive, about 16 miles distant from the church, where a
missionary supported by the Royal Bounty preaches
once in three weeks. A place of worship in connexion
with the Free Church has been recently built. The
parochial school is attended by about 50 children ; the
master has a salary of £29. 16. 7-, including the pro-
ceeds of a bequest producing £4. 3. 4., with a house
and garden ; and the school fees average about £11 per
annum. There are some remains of Ardchattan Priory,
founded in 1231, by Duncan Mc Coull, the supposed
ancestor of the lords of Lorn, for monks of the Bene-
dictine order ; the house of the prior has been con-
verted into a residence, by Mr. Campbell, the proprietor,
and there are traces of the abbey and cloisters, with
numerous monumental relics. Some remains also ex-
ist of the ancient churches of Bal-Moadau and Kilcolm-
kill.- the Castle of Barcaldine, erected in the 15th cen-
tury, by Sir Duncan Campbell, on a neck of land
between Loch Creran and the bay of Ardmucknish, is
rapidly falling into decay. There are remains of Drui-
dical circles, of large columns of granite, and smaller
circles of upright stones, on the summits of which are
large slabs of granite ; also stone coffins, in some of
which have been found rude urns, containing human
bones ; and numerous tumuli, in one of which was an
urn, containing calcined bones, and an arrow-head' of
flint. Many ancient coins have been likewise discovered,
including several silver coins of the reign of Edward I.,
on the reverse of which were the names, London, Cam-
bridge, and Oxford, in good preservation. The site of
the old city of Beregonium, supposed to have been the
ancient metropolis of Scotland, and concerning which
so many conflicting accounts have been written, and so
many fabulous legends propagated by tradition, is re-
ferred to an eminence between the ferries of Connel and
Shean, called Dun Mac Sniachan, on which are the
remains of a vitrified fort. The Rev. Colin Campbell,
an eminent mathematician and metaphysician, was mi-
nister of the parish in 1667.
ARDCLACH, a parish, in the county of Nairn, 12
miles (S. S. W.) from Forres; containing 1177 inhabit-
ants. This place derives its name from its situation in
a mountainous and rocky district, of which the Gaelic
words are faithfully descriptive. The parish is bounded
on the north by the parishes of Auldearn and Nairn,
and on the west by the parish of Cawdor, and is nearly
16 miles in extreme length, and 12 miles in extreme
ARDC
ARDE
breadth. During the wars of the Covenanters, it shared
largely in the hostilities of that distracted period ; after
the battle of Auldearn, in 1645, the lands here of Bro-
die, of Lethen, were plundered by the forces of the
Marquess of Montrose, and in 1649 and 1653, were
again desolated, after unsuccessful assaults of Lethen
Castle, by the Marquess of Huntly, and the troops
under the Earl of Glencairn, respectively. The whole
number of acres in the parish is about 40,000, of which
nearly 4000 are arable, about 2800 woodland and plan-
tations, and the remainder hill-pasture, moorland, and
waste. The surface is mountainous, and some of the
hills considerable, of which that called the Shaw has a
height of S00 feet, and the hill of Lethenbar of 862 feet,
above the level of the sea ; the lower lands are watered
by numerous springs and the river Findhorn, which
latter rises in the mountains of Inverness, and flows
through the parish, in a north-easterly direction, into
the Moray Frith. In its course, it receives many tri-
butary streams descending from the higher lands, of
which the principal are, the burns of Torgarrow and
Altnarie, which, in their descent, form beautiful cas-
cades ; the burns of Drumlochan and Tomnarrach ; and
the burn of Lethen, or Muckle-Burn, which flows for
nearly ten miles through the parish, and falls into the
Findhorn near its mouth. The system of agriculture
has been greatly improved, under the liberal encourage-
ment given to his tenants by Mr. Brodie, of Lethen,
and the rotation plan of husbandry is generally preva-
lent ; the crops are, oats, with other kinds of grain, and
various green crops. The soil, in the lower lands, is
tolerably fertile, and has been benefited by the use of
lime ; and the mountainous districts afford pasture for
cattle and sheep, of which the former are chiefly of
small size, but hardy and adapted to the pastures, and
the latter have been much improved by a cross with
the Lanarkshire breed. The natural wood is mostly
Scotch pine, birch, alder, hazel, mountain-ash, and pop-
lar ; and the plantations are principally larch, inter-
spersed with fir ; the wood of Dulcie forms an extensive
forest of fir, wholly indigenous, and there are also ample
and thriving plantations at Glenfairness and Lethen.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £2373. The
rocks along the course of the river Findhorn, are mainly
granite, gneiss, and quartz ; the substratum in the
western portion of the parish is the old red sandstone,
with some of the schistose formation, in which are
found impressions of plants, occasionally resting on a
layer of conglomerate, with nodules containing imper-
fect marine fossils, and which, when burnt, produce
excellent lime for manure. The moors afford black
game and grouse, partridges, snipes, woodcocks, and
other birds ; and hares and rabbits are found in great
number. The lake on the lands of Lethen called Loch
Belivat, which covers an area of 27 acres, abounds with
trout of three distinct species, weighing, on the average,
about two pounds each ; and in the centre, is an island,
frequented by aquatic fowl of every kind. Salmon are
taken in abundance, in the river. Coulmony House, the
property of Mr. Brodie, is a handsome mansion, beau-
tifully situated on the river, and Glenfairness House is
also a good residence.
The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish, which, till
1773, was united to Edenkillie, in the presbytery of
Forres, are under the superintendence of the presbytery
63
of Nairn and synod of Moray ; the minister's stipend,
including an allowance of £8. 6. 8. for communion
elements, is £248, with a manse, thoroughly repaired
in 1841, and a glebe of 7A acres, valued at £5 per
annum ; patron, Mr. Brodie. The church, situated
nearly in the centre of the parish, and surrounded with
a spacious cemetery, was originally built in 1626, and
rebuilt in 1762, and again in 1839, at a cost of £500 ;
it contains 6S6 sittings, and the service is performed
alternately in the English and Gaelic languages. A
place of worship has been erected in connexion with the
Free Church. The parochial school affords an ample
course of instruction ; the master has a salary of
£36. 7- 3., including an allowance of £2 for a garden,
with a good dwelling-house, and the fees average from
£10 to £15 per annum. There are also, a female school
for reading, knitting, and sewing, which receives £5 per
annum from the Society for Propagating Christian
Knowledge ; and a school at Fornighty, of which the
master has a salary of £15 from the society, and re-
ceives £2 from a bequest of Mr. Dunbar, of London.
About a mile below the bridge of Dulcie, on the lands
of Glenfairness, is an ancient obelisk, on which are
rudely sculptured two figures in the Highland costume,
supposed to commemorate the fate of a Celtic princess
who, eloping with her Danish paramour, was pursued
to the hill of Dunearn, on the verge of the river, into
which they precipitated themselves, and perished toge-
ther. On the summit of the hill of Lethenbar is a very
perfect Druidical circle ; and in the neighbourhood are
several tumuli.
ARDEN, a village, in that part of the parish of New
Monkland which forms the quoad sacra parish of
Clarkston, Middle ward of the county of Lanark;
containing 646 inhabitants. It is situated about four
miles east of the town of Airdrie, and in the southern
portion of the parish.
ARDERSIER, a parish, in the county of Inver-
ness; containing, with the village of Campbelton, and
the garrison of Fort-George, 1475 inhabitants, of whom
716 reside within the limits of the village. This place,
called, in ancient documents, Ardrosser, is supposed to
have derived its name from a bold promontory, towards
the western shore, which rises to a height of 200 feet
above the level of the sea. A considerable portion of
the lands formerly belonged to the diocese of Ross, and,
in 1574, was granted, with consent of the dean and chap-
ter, to John Campbell, of Calder, ancestor of the present
proprietor, Earl Cawdor, who still pays to the crown an
annual sum, as bishop's rent. The Knights Templars
had also some lands in the parish, over which they had
a jurisdiction of regality; and the last preceptor, Sir
James Sandilands, obtained from Mary, Queen of Scots,
the erection of his estates into a temporal barony, and,
in 1563, was created Lord Torphichen. The parish,
which is bounded on the north and west by the Moray
Frith, extends for about four miles in length, from north-
west to south-east, and is two miles in breadth, com-
prising 3250 acres, of which 1434 are arable, about 500
in plantations, and the remainder, meadow, pasture, and
heath. The surface, with the exception of the high
grounds to the west and north, is generally flat, and,
towards the coast, low and sandy ; the soil, in some
parts, is a deep black mould, in others of lighter quality,
and in some places a strong clay, alternated with shal-
A RDN
A R D N
low sand. The usual crops of grain, and large quan-
tities of potatoes, are raised ; the lands have been
partly inclosed, and the modern improvements in
husbandry are gradually taking place. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £1540. A salmon-fishery
is carried on to a moderate extent, on the coast, there
being two stations, the rents of which, together, amount
to £60 per annum.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintend-
ence of the presbytery of Nairn and synod of Moray ;
the minister's stipend is £15S. 6. /., of which part is
paid from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £25 per annum ; patron, Earl Cawdor. The
church, situated in the eastern part of the parish, was
built in 1802, and is a neat structure. There are
places of worship for Old Seceders and members of the
Free Church. The parochial school is well attended ;
the master has a salary of £36. 7- lf-.> with a house and
garden, and the fees average about £20 per annum. On
the heath near the borders of the adjoining parish of
Nairn, is an obelisk supposed to indicate the spot where
the Danes were repulsed ; and at Achnuallan, were the
remains of a Druidical circle, near which a horn, filled
with silver coins, was found in 1S00 ; but those remains
have been removed for building materials. At Dalyards,
the ruins of a building thought to have belonged to the
Knights Templars, have disappeared in the progress of
agriculture ; and on a hill behind Campbelton, is a cir-
cular mount 120 yards in diameter at the base, and
surrounded, towards the summit, by a rampart of clay
and earth ; it was called, in the Gaelic, Cromal, now
corrupted into " Cromwell's mount," and has been partly
destroyed, like many other fortlets. A Roman sword,
and the head of a spear ; and some axes of flint, sup-
posed to be of Danish origin, have been found in the
neighbourhood.
ARDGOWER.— See Ballichulish.
ARDNAMURCHAN, a parish, partly in the county
of Argyll, and partly in the county of Inverness;
comprising the quoad sacra districts of Aharacle and
Strontian, and containing 55S1 inhabitants. The present
parish of Ardnamurchan, previously to the Reformation,
was distributed into three separate parishes, compre-
hending the five districts of Ardnamurchan, Sunart,
Moidart, Arasaig, and South Morir. These districts still
remain as distinct portions, and from the first the
parish takes its name, signifying " the promontory" or
" heights of the great sea." This term was originally
applied with great propriety, the district of Ardnamur-
chan being nearly a peninsular promontory, thrusting
itself out from the mainland to a considerable extent,
into the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. The districts
of Ardnamurchan and Sunart are in the county of
Argyll, and the other three in Inverness-shire ; and the
whole extent is supposed to comprise 200,000 Scotch
acres, of which S7,753 are in the Argyllshire portion.
The parish is bounded on the south by Loch Sunart,
separating it from that of Morven ; on the south-west,
by the northern end of the Sound of Mull ; on the
north, by Loch Morir, and the river flowing thence,
which separate it from North Morir, in the parish of
Glenelg; and on the north-west and west, by that part
of the Atlantic Ocean which reaches to the opposite
shores of Skye and the Small Isles. The coast, which
is continuously, and remarkably, indented with creeks
64
and bays forming numerous points and headlands, is
supposed to embrace a line of several hundreds of miles,
and exhibits a bold and rocky appearance. It displays,
at some seasons, the foaming cataracts of the neigh-
bouring waters driven landward by the westerly winds,
and occasionally rendering inaccessible the several
creeks and landing-places. The lieadland of Ardnamur-
chan, which is the most westerly part of the mainland
of Great Britain, and the most prominent on the line
of coast between Cape Wrath and the Mull of Cantyre,
was formerly used as a geographical mark, in respect
to which the Western Isles were denominated north or
south. A creek on its extreme point, the picture of
dreariness and desolation, marks the place where the
remains of numbers of unfortunate sailors have found
a grave, their barks having been dashed to pieces on
the adjoining rocks; indeed, the whole coast surround-
ing the district of Ardnamurchan, is a series of inden-
tations and prominences. Beyond this, the southern
part of the parish, the line of coast runs along the
Moidart district, on the west and north, and then forms
the western limit of Arasaig and South Morir, jagged
with many rocky points and headlands,': of which the
point of Arasaig, the next iu importance to Ardnamur-
chan, is well known to mariners, and is visited by
steamers plying from Glasgow to Skye and other parts.
The coast here is very rugged, but not abrupt or pre-
cipitous ; and it has numerous shelving rocks, extend-
ing under water to the northern boundary of the parish.
A deep and wide bay is formed by the line of shore
stretching in an easterly direction from the point of
Ardnamurchan to the isthmus of that district, then
northward, and afterwards round to the west, reaching
to the point of Af asaig ; and at the flexure of the northern
coast of Ardnamurchan towards Moidart, is Kintra bay,
with its fine sands, the latter measuring about two square
miles, of nearly circular form, and covered, at high
water, by the sea, which enters by a small inlet.
The principal Harbours along the coast are, the bay
of Glenmore, on the south of Ardnamurchan, affording
good anchorage ; that of Kilchoan, a small harbour on
the same coast, furnishing the chief point of communi-
cation with Tobermory ; and, on the north coast of Ard-
namurchan, at Ardtoe, a small bay, where inferior craft
may find a safe retreat. At the island of Shona, north
of Kintra bay, also, and in the opening of Loch Moidart,
are several creeks with good anchorage, the resort of
boats from the southern highlands, in the season for cod-
fishing; and in Loch Sunart are the harbour of Stron-
tian, and the creek of Salin, at which latter a pier has
been built. There are likewise several maritime lochs in
the parish, which are of considerable extent and import-
ance, and form a distinct feature in the general scenery
of the coast. Loch Sunart shoots off from the Sound of
Mull, where it is about six miles in breadth, and, in its
inland course of about twenty-five miles, runs, with
much impetuosity, through the channels formed by the
islands of Carna, Resga, and Oransay, six or seven miles
from its mouth, and then lies quietly, with the excep-
tion of the ebb and flow of the tides, between lofty rocks
and precipitous banks overgrown with wood. Loch
Moidart is about four miles long, from east to west, and
communicates with the open sea by means of a narrow
channel on each side of the island of Shona : being
surrounded with steep lofty mountains, it is usually
A II D N
ARDN
unruffled, and its scenery embraces all the striking fea-
tures of a highland district. The remaining salt-water
lochs are those of Loch-nan-Uamh, situated between
Moidart and Arasaig ; Loch Ainart, a branch of the
former ; and Loch-na-Reaull, just north of Arasaig point ;
all of comparatively small extent. In different parts of
the coast are caves, some of them very extensive, but
none of much note, except one at Baradale, in Arasaig,
a damp, rough, dark excavation, where Prince Charles
Stuart, after his defeat at Culloden, concealed himself
for three days.
The interior of the parish, consisting of a sweep of
land of very rugged character, is crowded with the fea-
tures, variously combined, of almost every description
of wild and romantic scenery, comprising lofty moun-
tain ranges, precipitous rocky elevations, thickly-wooded
hills, dells, and ravines, with numberless inland lochs,
and several rivers. The Ardnamurchan portion is strongly
marked by a range of hills, though of no great eleva-
tion, running from the western point, for about twenty-
four miles, towards the east, and varying from four
miles and a half to seven in breadth. Near the coast,
are many farms under good cultivation, within the first
ten or twelve miles, but afterwards the pasture becomes
coarser. Oak, birch, and hazel are seen covering the
rocks, and the lower hills on the south, to Loch Sunart ;
while, on the north, the district, at its eastern extremity,
is occupied by a very extensive moss, girt by the river
Shiel ; this stream, which flows from Loch Shiel, and
one from Loch Morir, being the principal rivers, and
both falling into the western ocean. The name of the
Sunart district, written, in some ancient records, Swyne-
fort, or Su-yniford, is supposed to have been derived from
the circumstance of a king of Denmark named Swin,
who was driven from his own country for apostatizing
from Christianity, having, in the 10th century, landed
in a creek here, on the western shore, called, in conse-
quence of that event, Swineard. This tract is a con-
tinuation of that of Ardnamurchan, about twenty-five
miles long, and ten in average breadth, and, for several
miles from its commencement, has the appearance of
a mountain ridge. After this the eminences expand,
reaching to Loch Sunart on the south, and Loch Shiel on
the north and north-west, leaving a large intermediate
space, filled up with lofty hills and deep valleys and
glens, thrown together in the greatest, irregularity and
confusion. The most lofty mountains are, Ben-Reisi-
poll, Scur-Dhoniel, Scour-Choinich, Creach-Bhunn, and,
Glaschoiren Hill, reaching respectively 2661 feet, 2730
feet, 2364 feet, 2439 feet, and 1920 feet in height. The
district contains two extensive and interesting valleys,
of which that of Strontian, near its eastern extremity,
opening at Loch Sunart, stretches for about five miles
inland. It is ornamented in succession from its en-
trance with clusters of fine natural oak, flourishing
plantations surrounding a tasteful mansion with well
laid out grounds, an excellent and well-cultivated farm,
with the crofts and tenements of numerous cottagers, the
government church near the stream that runs through
the valley, and, further on, the pleasing manse. Glen-
aheurich, a few miles north of the former valley, con-
tains a spacious lake, and affords excellent pasturage
for sheep ; and besides this, there are other glens of
inferior dimensions, bounded with picturesque hills dis-
playing a profusion of verdure and ornamental wood.
Vol. I.— 65
The district of Moidart takes its name from a compound
Gaelic term signifying " the height of sea-spray," and
extends about ten or twelve miles in breadth, and twenty-
five in length, in a direction parallel with Sunart, along
the whole boundary of Loch Shiel. It is bounded on the
west and north by the sea, and the continuous range of
mountains along the coast on each side, incloses an
intermediate and lofty ridge, exhibiting a summit with
a magnificent assemblage of crags, rocks, hills, and
ravines, rendered more interesting to the curious ob-
server by the almost impossible attempt to find their
parallel. There are, however, in this elevated portion,
some tolerably good plains, and a valley called Glenala-
dale, about 300 yards broad, and containing fair arable
and pasture land. The districts of Arasaig and South
Morir, not separated from each other by any marked.
features, constitute together a tract twenty-four miles in
length, and fifteen broad : a long and very dreary valley
named Glenmeuble, stretches along Arasaig for ten
miles, with a farm at the eastern end, and a small loch
called Brosaig, not very far off. The parish contains
numerous fresh-water lakes, many of which abound with
trout : the principal of them is Loch Shiel, which sepa-
rates the county of Argyll from that of Inverness, and is
embosomed amid mountains of the most magnificent
description, very little known to travellers. At the
western extremity of this lake is the beautiful island of
Finnan.
The soil is various, but generally light and shallow ;
only a small portion is fit for superior husbandry,
and the remainder is moor and moss, of which latter
kind there are several large tracts styled moss-flats,
especially adjacent to Loch Shiel. That called the
Moss of Kintra covers an area of seven square miles,
and, like some of the others, is a quagmire in the middle,
of unknown depth, though considerable portions near
the margin are capable of improvement. Oats and bear
are raised ; but potatoes, hay, wool, and the cuttings of
wood, make the largest items in the returns of produce.
The black-faced sheep are those chiefly kept, and the
cattle are the Argyllshire ; the pasture lands are in many
parts of an excellent kind, and both sheep and cattle
are generally of a superior description, and receive much
attention. The method of cultivation varies according to
the nature of the soil and the locality ; the best imple-
ments are in use, and shell-sand mixed with kelp, and
various deposits from the sea-shore, .are extensively em-
ployed as manure. Considerable improvements have been
made on some estates, within these few years, and the
farm-buildings of superior tenants are good, but those of
the inferior class of the worst description. The extent of
arable land in the Ardnamurchan and Sunart districts
is upwards of 5000 acres, about half turned by the
plough, and half by the spade; and it is supposed that
the quantity throughout the parish might he doubled,
with a profitable application of capital, there being, in
these two districts alone, more than 12,000 acres of
pasture, 3000 or more of moss, and SO.OOO of moor,
much of which is capable of tillage. An agricultural
association, principally connected with Ardnamurchan
and Sunart, and some neighbouring places, meets annu-
ally at Strontian, under the auspices of which great im-
provement has taken place in the breed of horses, black-
cattle, and sheep. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £6S94. The rocks, to the distance of eleven
K
ARDN
A R D O
or twelve miles eastward from Ardnamurchan point,
are of the trap formation, whiustone being most preva-
lent, and appearing in numerous dykes which intersect
each other in all directions ; and in some places are
found portions of slate, sandstone, and limestone, the
last in large masses. Beyond these strata, further east-
ward, the gneiss, or mica-slate, shows itself, and the
rocks become much more abrupt and lofty ; a quarry is
in operation at Laga, of micaceous rock, of fine quality,
abundant in the parish ; and at Strontian, excellent gra-
nite is raised, at which place, also, lead-mines are open,
but not at present worked. Previously to 1722, these
mines were let to the Duke of Norfolk and others, and
afterwards were held by the York Building Company, and
worked to the conclusion of the last war, the proprietor
receiving at that time, from £1000 to £1500 per annum
for rent, amounting to one-eighth of the produce ; they
were also let" in the year 1836, but the works were
shortly discontinued. The wood is of considerable ex-
tent throughout the parish, including much oak, valu-
able for its timber, birch, hazel, alder, and ash, all of
natural growth ; and the plantations comprise fir, plane,
oak, and ash trees. Arasaig House is an elegant modern
mansion of polished freestone. The population is chiefly
rural, and scattered through the different districts ; a
few are engaged in salmon-fishing, on the river Shiel,
and others in taking herrings on some of the lochs ;
two decked-vessels belong to the place, one of fifty, and
the other of twenty tons. There is a post-office at
Strontian, with a daily post; also one at Arasaig, with
a delivery three times weekly ; and a third at Kilchoan,
communicating, by a messenger, with Strontian, twice
each week. A road runs from Arasaig, by Glenfinnan,
to Fort- William and the Caledonian canal, and another
from Strontian to Corran Ferry, by each of which cattle
and sheep are driven to the southern markets. The
principal communication, however, is by steam-vessels
from Glasgow, which touch at the point of Arasaig, and
at Tobermory, a sea-port, in the northern extremity of the
island of Mull, about five miles south from the harbour
of Kilchoan, in Ardnamurchan. A fair is held at Stron-
tian, in May, and another in October, for cattle and
sheep ; and there is also a cattle and sheep fair at
Arasaig.
The parish is in the presbytery of Mull and synod of
Argyll, and is ecclesiastically distributed into five
portions, namely, the parish church district, two quoad
sacra parishes, a district under the care of a missionary,
and another under that of an assistant. The first of
these embraces the western portion of the peninsula of
Ardnamurchan, and contains a place of worship at Kil-
choan, on the south, four or five miles from the point,
and one at Kilmorie, on the northern coast, at which
the minister officiates alternately. The Kilchoan church,
which, on account of its situation, commands the larger
attendance, is a superior edifice, built in 1831, and accom-
modating more than 600 persons ; that of Kilmorie,
raised by a late incumbent, is a very humble struc-
ture, originally built of dry stone, and thatched. The
minister has a stipend of about £270, with a manse,
and a glebe of 27 acres, valued at £10 or £12 per
annum ; patron, the Duke of Argyll. The quoad sacra
church at Strontian is thirty miles distant from
the parish church ; that at Aharacle is situated at the
west-end of Loch Shiel, 23 miles distant. The mission
66
of Laga comprehends about eleven miles of the coast of
Loch Sunart, partly in the parish church district, and
partly in that of Aharacle ; the minister receives £60
per annum from the Royal Bounty, and has built a
preaching-house at his own expense. The district of
the assistant is by far the largest ecclesiastical division,
embracing the principal part of Moidart, and the whole
of Arasaig and South Morir, and has a small preaching-
house, built partly by subscription, at Polnish, near
Inveraylort, and a school-house at Ardnafuaran, in
Arasaig : he receives from the parish minister £55. 11. 1.,
and £32 from the Royal Bounty, with £5 for communion
elements. There are five Roman Catholic chapels, with
two officiating priests. The parochial school, situated at
Kilchoan, affords the ordinary instruction ; the master
has a salary of £25. 13. 3., with £10 fees, and a house,
garden, and two acres of land, the whole valued at £7.
The parish contains several vitrified forts ; but the chief
relic of antiquity is the castle of Mingary, on the south-
ern shore of Ardnamurchan, once the stronghold of Mac
Ian, from which James IV., in 1493, granted a charter,
and where, two years afterwards, he held his court, to
receive the submission of the nobles of the forfeited
lordship of the Isles. On the plain, at Glenfinnan, is
a tower erected in commemoration of the events of 1745,
by Alexander Mc Donald, of Glenaladale, with an in-
scription by Dr. Donald Mc Lean ; the successor to the
property, Angus Mc Donald, Esq., has lately much im-
proved it, and crowned the summit with a statue of
Prince Charles Stuart.
ARDOCH, lately a quoad sacra parish, comprising -
the villages of Balhaddie, Buttergask, Greenloaning, and
Rottearn, in the parish of Dunblane; the post-vil-
lage of Braco, in the parish of Muthill ; and part of
the parish of Blackford, in the county of Perth ;
the whole containing 15S4 inhabitants. This place is
about seven miles in length by six in breadth, and is
intersected by the high road from Crieff to Dunblane
and Stirling ; two-thirds of the soil are in tillage or
pasture, and the remainder, with the exception of a
portion under plantation, is uncultivated. At Rottearn,
is a small manufactory for converting potatoes into
flour. Fairs are held on the first Wednesday in
January, the last Tuesday in April, and the first Tues-
day in August, chiefly for cattle. The village, which is
small, is prettily situated on the above-mentioned road,
about nine miles south-by- west from Crieff. The parish
was in the presbytery of Auchterarder and synod of Perth
and Stirling; the minister's stipend was £94, with a
manse and garden, and a glebe valued at £6 per annum ;
the heads of families in communion with the Church of
Scotland were the patrons. The church, erected by
subscription in 17S0, is a plain edifice, and contains 555
sittings. The Associate Secession Synod and the Free
Church have places of worship ; and there is a paro-
chial school. Near the village is the most entire Roman
camp that remains in Scotland ; it was probably esta-
blished during the fourth campaign of Agricola, a.d.
48, and is 1060 feet in length and 900 in breadth, and
could contain 26,000 men, according to the ordinary
distribution of the Roman soldiers in their encamp-
ments. There appear to have been seven ditches sur-
rounding it, and it was defended on the west side, by
the small river Knaik ; the four entries crossing the
lines, are still distinctly to be seen.
A R D R
A RD R
ARDRISSAIG, a village, in the parish of South
Knapdale, county of Argyll j containing about 400
inhabitants. This village, situated at the harbour of
Ardrissaig, in Loch Gilp, a branch of Loch Fine, has
sprung up since the commencement of the Crinan
canal, in 1*93, and is of respectable appearance. It is
the scene of much bustle and traffic, occasioned by the
convenience of its harbour, at the opening of the canal
into Loch Gilp, where, exclusive of the business in goods
and passengers connected with the canal, it is computed
that about 24,000 persons are landed and shipped an-
nually, besides large numbers of sheep and cattle, by the
Glasgow steam-vessels, three of which in summer, and
one in winter, arrive here daily. In the adjacent har-
bour is a slip and steam-boat pier, erected in 1S37, at
an expense of more than £1000 ; and independently of
the boats belonging to the parish, forty or fifty in num-
ber, many others, making together above 100, are
frequently in the harbour in the fishing season, her-
rings being taken in Loch Fine, in very large numbers.
One of the parochial schools was established here, but is
now included in the new parish of Lochgilphead.
ARDROSSAN, a parish, in the district of Cunning-
hams, county of Ayr ; including the thriving town of
Ardrossan, and the greater part of Saltcoats, 74 miles
(\V. S. W.) from Edinburgh; and containing 4947 inha-
bitants. This place derives its name, of Celtic origin, from
the situation of its ancient baronial castle on a small pro-
montory. Little is known of its earlier history; and
of its ancient proprietors, not much further notice occurs
than that Sir Fergus de Ardrossan accompanied Edward
Bruce, in his expedition into Ireland, in 1316, and was
one of the Scottish barons who, in 1320, signed a me-
morial to the pope, complaining of the aggressions of
Edward I. of England. The castle, during the time of
Baliol, being occupied by the English, was surprised
and taken by William Wallace, who, arriving in the
night with a few of his followers, set fire to the few
houses situated around the base of the hill on which it
stood, and on the garrison going out to extinguish the
flames, rushed into the castle, made themselves masters
of the gates, and put all the English to the sword, as
they unsuspectingly returned. The castle appears to
have been inhabited till the time of Cromwell, who is
said to have thrown down its walls, and to have not
only demolished it, but carried away the materials, for
the erection of the fort which he built at Ayr. On the
death of the last Baron Ardrossan, without issue male,
the estate passed, by marriage with his heiress, to the
Montgomerie family, its present proprietors.
The town is beautifully situated on the shore of the
Frith of Clyde, and owes its rise to the fostering patron-
age of the late Earl of Eglinton, by whom it was origi-
nally built, and by whom the harbour to which it owes
its importance was originally constructed, chiefly at his
own expense. It consists of various spacious and regu-
larly-formed streets, intersecting each other at right angles,
and containing houses uniformly and handsomely built,
and is much frequented, during the season ; the town
is lighted, and has a good supply of water. Lodging-
houses have been built, for the reception of the com-
pany who resort hither for bathing, and a spacious hotel
has been erected, containing ten public rooms, and a
proportionate number of sleeping rooms, with hot and
cold baths. The public baths, for which a handsome
67
building has been erected, were originally established,
on the tontine principle, by the late Earl of Eglinton,
after whose decease they were suspended for a time, till,
in 1833, they were purchased by the present proprietor,
by whom the buildings have been enlarged, and put
into a state of complete repair. The baths are of mar-
ble, with convenient dressing-rooms attached to each ;
tliey are under excellent management, and hot, cold,
shower, and vapour baths are prepared on the shortest
notice. Connected with the establishment, are nume-
rous lodging-rooms, which are fully occupied during
the season ; there is also a bath gratuitously appro-
priated to the use of the poor. In the immediate
neighbourhood of the town are several villas, pleasantly
situated, commanding good views of the Frith ; and
around the margin of the bay, a crescent has been laid
out, forming a splendid addition to the appearance of
the town. The pavilion, the marine villa of the Earl of
Eglinton, is an elegant seat, occasionally the residence
of his lordship ; there are many agreeable walks in the
environs, and between this and Saltcoats, is a fine sandy
beach, about three-quarters of a mile in length, which is
a favourite promenade. There are about sixty looms in
the town, employed in the weaving of shawls and heavier
articles, and lighter articles of silk and cotton, and in
Saltcoats nearly 450 ; many of the females are also en-
gaged in working muslin. Fairs are held in July, and
on the fourth Thursday in November, for cattle and
various kinds of merchandise ; facility of communica-
tion is afforded by excellent roads to all the neighbour-
ing towns.
The harbour, according to the primary plan, as
projected by the late Earl of Eglinton, will very shortly
be one of the finest harbours of Scotland. In the
original undertaking, his lordship was joined by seve-
ral gentlemen of the county, and others, who became
shareholders ; but the sums expended on the works
having greatly exceeded the amount of the subscrip-
tions, the subsequent expense was borne solely by
Lord Eglinton, who spent little less than £100,000 in
the prosecution of the undertaking. After his decease,
however, the works were suspended, and the harbour
remained in an unfinished state till 1844, when the
works were resumed, and the construction of docks was
proceeded with, in the most spirited manner, by the
present earl. The harbour is easy of access, and screened
from adverse winds, and, during rough weather, is fre-
quently crowded with vessels which run in for safety ;
it has from twelve to twenty feet depth of water. The
exports are, iron and coal, and general goods from
Glasgow ; and the imports, timber from America, corn,
cattle and provisions from Ireland, and goods from the
manufacturing districts of England. Many vessels in
the coal trade, both from Irvine and Saltcoats, put in
here, to complete their cargoes ; the number of vessels
which arrived at the quay in 1S37, was 1963, of the
aggregate burthen of 10S,549 tons, and the number of
men, 10,110. Ship-building is pursued on a consider-
able scale. Fishing is carried on to a moderate extent ;
salmon are taken in the Frith, by the bag-net, and for-
warded to the Glasgow, Paisley, and Kilmarnock mar-
kets ; few white-fish are taken, but several boats are
employed in the herring-fishery, and some few in the
cod and ling fishery, on the coast of Barra. In the for-
mation of the harbour, it was the hope of Lord Eglin-
K2
ARDR
A R G Y
ton, to render it the chief harbour of Glasgow, as, from
the favourable nature of its position, it might super-
sede entirely the circuitous navigation of the river Clyde ;
and in this view, in order to unite Ardrossan with that
town, he commenced the formation of a canal, which,
during his lifetime, was completed merely from Glas-
gow to Johnstone, in the county of Renfrew. In ] 82"',
an act was obtained for laying down a railway from
the harbour, to join the canal at Johnstone, which was,
however, effected only for about six miles, to Kilwin-
ning, from which a branch of about four miles extended
to the Eglinton collieries ; this part of the work was
completed in 1832, and in 1S40, an act was passed,
separating the management of the railroad from that
of the canal, and incorporating the proprietors, with
a capital of £S0,000. At Kilwinning, the Ardrossan
railway joins the Glasgow and Ayr line. Steam-boats
sail four times a week to Fleetwood in Lancashire, and
furnish the most rapid means of communication be-
tween this part of Scotland and the manufacturing dis-
tricts of England ; there are also steamers to Belfast,
Londonderry, Glasgow, and other places.
The parish is bounded on the. south and south-west
by the Frith of Clyde, and comprises about 5520 Scot-
tish acres, of which 1250 are arable, 2350 meadow and
pasture, 1800 hilly pasture, and about 150 woodland
and plantations. The surface is agreeably diversified
with tracts of level land, and gentle undulations rising
into hills of different elevation, which increase in height
towards the coast ; the highest of them is called Knock-
Georgan, and is 700 feet above the sea, commanding a
rich prospect. Of the others, only one has an eleva-
tion of 400 feet ; several of them are ornamented with
clumps of trees, and add much to the beauty of the
scenery. The shore is generally level, and indented with
bays of various dimensions, of which that of Ardrossan is
very picturesque ; it is about three-quarters of a mile in
length, and to the north of it, is another fine bay, of
larger size ; the coast here becomes rocky and irregular,
and ridges of shelving rocks extend for a considerable
length. Nearly opposite the harbour, and about a mile
from the shore, is Horse Isle, containing about twelve
acres, on which a beacon tower was erected by the
late Earl of Eglinton, for the benefit of vessels ap-
proaching the harbour, and which it has been in con-
templation to convert into a light-house. The chief
rivulets are, the Stanley and Monfode burns, which
descend from the higher lands, and, after flowing
through the parish, fall into the Frith ; and the Mun-
nock or Caddel burn, a more copious stream, which
intersects the upper part of the parish, and falls into
the river Caaf, which separates it from the parish of
Dairy. The soil, towards the coast, is light and sandy,
and in the higher grounds a tenacious clay, occasionally
intermixed with loam ; it has been rendered generally
fertile by long cultivation, and a judicious use of sea-
weed and lime for manure. The principal crops are,
oats, wheat, potatoes, and turnips ; the system of agri-
culture is in a very advanced state ; the lands are well
drained and inclosed, and great improvements have been
made, and much unprofitable land reclaimed, under
the auspices of the Agricultural Society, which holds its
meetings here in November. Great attention is paid to
the management of the dairies ; and about 10,000 stone
of cheese, of good quality, are annuallv produced, which
68
supply the neighbouring markets. The cows are gene-
rally of the Cunninghame or Ayrshire breed. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £11,775. The
substrata are, limestone, freestone, and coal ; the last
was formerly wrought in the northern part of the parish,
and in the vicinity of Saltcoats, but the workings have
been, for some time, discontinued. There are three
limestone quarries in the upper part of the parish ; the
freestone is found both of a red and white colour, and
there is an extensive quarry of the former, close to the
town of Ardrossan, from which was raised the stone for
building the town and forming the quay. Near the
town are also various kinds of whinstone, of which
whole rocks have been blasted with gunpowder, and
used in the formation of the breakwater. There are
several strata of ironstone near the public baths, varying
from two inches to nearly five feet in thickness, but,
from their situation, the working of them has not been
thought likely to repay the expense ; a variety of fossil
shells is found in several parts, and it is generally sup-
posed that the sea has considerably receded from this
part of the coast.
The parish is in the presbytery of Irvine and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr ; the minister's stipend is £261. 1. 3.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum ;
patron, the Earl of Eglinton. The old church, which
was situated on the Castle-hill, at Ardrossan, was de-
stroyed by a storm, in 1691, and another erected on a
site about half a mile further from the coast ; and this
church, also, being so much shaken by a storm, in 1773,
as to be considered unsafe, was taken down, and the
present church built, in the town of Saltcoats, in 1774 ;
it is a substantial edifice, adapted for a congregation of
S40 persons. A Gaelic church has likewise been erected
in Saltcoats, for the accommodation of the numerous
Highland families resident there, at an expense of £1000,
and is a neat edifice, for 750 persons ; another church
was built in 1S44, at Ardrossan. There is a place
of worship for members of the United Secession. The
parochial school, situated in the town of Saltcoats,
is well conducted ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4.,
and £25 from fees, with a house and garden. Of the
ancient castle of Ardrossan, some small fragments only
are remaining ; on the lands of Monfode, are the re-
mains of a baronial castle, much dilapidated, formerly
the residence of a family of that name. On Knock-
Georgan, are the remains of a Danish camp ; and on
one of the other hills in the parish, is an artificial
mound, of rectangular form, sixteen yards long, nine
yards wide, and the same in height, with sloping banks,
concerning which nothing authentic is recorded. Dr.
Robert Simpson, professor of mathematics in the uni-
versity of Glasgow, was a heritor of this parish, where
he was accustomed to reside during the vacations, on his
estate of Knockewart.
ARGYLLSHIRE, a maritime county, in the south-
west of Scotland, bounded on the north by Inverness-
shire ; on the east, by the counties of Inverness, Perth,
and Dumbarton ; and on the south and west, by the
Atlantic Ocean. It lies between 55° 21' and 57°
(N. lat.), and 4° 15' and 7° 10' (W. long.), and is about
115 miles in extreme length, and about 55 miles in
average breadth, comprising an area, including the
various islands connected with it, of about 3S00 square
miles, of which, what may be considered as the conti-
ARGY
A It G Y
nent, contains about 2735 square miles, or 1,750,400
acres. There are 19,207 houses, of which 1S,552 are
inhabited ; and a population of 97,371, of whom 47,795
are males, and 49,576 females. The county appears to
have been occupied, at an early period, chiefly by the
Scots, who, emigrating from the Irish coasts, settled in
the peninsula of Cantyre, and, after the subjugation of
the Picts, and the union of the two kingdoms under
Kenneth Me Alpine, became identified with the general
population of the country. In the legends of romance,
this part of Scotland is celebrated as the principal scene
of the exploits of the heroes of the race of Fingal, and
as the birthplace of the bard Ossian, whose poems are
still the subject of deeply-interesting research among the
learned. Ossian is said to have been born in the valley
of Glencoe ; and the county, which abounds with nu-
merous localities connected with the achievements of his
heroes, still retains, in a very high degree, that spirit
of feudal vassalage for which it was, for ages, pre-emi-
nently remarkable. The family of Campbell, long dis-
tinguished as the principal of that extensive and powerful
clan, and ancestors of the dukes of Argyll, for many
generations possessed an absolute and sovereign autho-
rity over their vassals, who, on all occasions, rallied
round the standard of their chieftain, with all the fidelity
of kindred attachment, and tendered the most arduous
services with implicit submission to his controul.
Prior to the Reformation, the county was, for cen-
turies, the seat of a diocese, of which the bishop resided
on the island of Lismore, between the main land and
the isle of Mull, where the cathedral church was situ-
ated ; and the jurisdiction extended over all the adjacent
islands, including those of Bute and Arran. Since that
period, it has constituted the chief part of the synod of
Argyll, comprising the presbyteries of Inverary, Dunoon,
Cantyre, Islay and Jura, Lorn, and Mull, and about
fifty parishes. For civil purposes, the county is divided
into the districts of Argyll, Cowal, Islay, Cantyre,
Lorn, and Mull ; and is under the jurisdiction of a
sheriff-depute, by whom three sheriffs-substitute are ap-
pointed, who reside, respectively, at Inverary, which is
the county town, at Campbelltown, and Tobermory.
The courts of assize and general quarter-sessions are
held at Inverary; and courts for the recovery of small
debts, are held, four times in the }rear, at Oban, Loch-
gilphead, Dunoon, and Bowmore ; and twice in the year,
at Strontian. The royal burghs are Inverary and Camp-
belltown ; and in addition to the others above noticed,
the county contains the small town of Ballichulish, and
some inconsiderable hamlets. Under the act of the
2nd of William IV., the county returns one member to
the imperial parliament.
The surface is generally wild and mountainous, es-
pecially towards the north, where it borders on the
Grampian range ; and even along the coasts, of which
there is an extent of more than 600 miles, and where
the land is lowest, there are numerous bills of very
considerable elevation. The most mountainous parts of
the county are, however, interspersed with pleasing and
fertile tracts of valley, watered by streams, on the banks
of which are some productive arable lands ; and the
slopes of the hills, in many places, afford good pasture.
Of the numerous Inlands which are included within the
limits of the county, the principal are, Mull, Jura, Islay,
Coll, Tiree, Colonsay, Lismore, and Oronsay, with
69
smaller islands, all of which are noticed under their re-
spective heads. The coasts are deeply indented with
arms of the sea, forming Sounds between the mainland
and the several islands, and some of which penetrate
deeply into the land, constituting salt-water lakes of
considerable extent. Of these, the principal are, the
Sound of Mull, between the island of that name and
the mainland ; the Sound of Jura, separating that island
from the continent ; the Sound of Islay, between the
isles of Jura and Islay, and the Frith of Clyde, sepa-
rating the peninsula of Cantyre and the district of Cowal,
from the islands of Arran and Bute. The most promi-
nent Mountains are, the Cruachan, rising from the north-
eastern extremity of Loch Awe, to the height of 3390
feet; the Cruachlussa, in the district of Knapdale,
attaining an elevation of 3000 feet ; Benreisipoll, in
Ardnamurchan, 2661 feet in height; Buchael-Etive,
near Loch-Etive, towards the north, rising 2537 feet
above the sea ; the Paps of Jura, in the isle of Jura,
2476 feet in height ; and Beininturk, in Cantyre, which
has an elevation of 2170 feet.
Among the salt-water lakes is Loch Fine, which is of
very great depth, nearly 60 miles in length, and varying
from two to three miles in breadth, and on the shore
of which is situated the town of Inverary. Loch Linnhe
lies between the districts of Morven and Lorn, and is
the source of most of the inland lakes which form the
Caledonian canal ; the scenery on both its shores is
strikingly romantic, and the borders are thickly inter-
spersed with the remains of ancient fortresses, and
enlivened with numerous handsome residences. Loch
Long extends from the Frith of Clyde, for nearly 22
miles, into the land, separating the county from that
of Dumbarton, from the north-west of which branches
off the Loch Goil, crowned on its precipitous banks with
the ruins of Castle Carrick, a royal residence, of which
the Duke of Argyll is hereditary keeper. Of the prin-
cipal inland lakes, one is Loch Awe, the most extensive
in the county, about 28 miles in length, and from one
to two miles in breadth ; it abounds with salmon, eels,
and trout, and from it issues a stream called the Awe,
which flows into the loch Etive, at Bunawe ferry. Loch
Etive, a lake of much smaller extent, communicates with
Loch Awe by the river Awe, and, on the west, with the
Sound of Mull, from which it forms an inlet, nearly
opposite the island of Lismore ; on the north shore, are
the ruins of the ancient priory of Ardchattan. There
are several smaller lakes, but none of sufficient import-
ance to require particular notice ; also numerous streams
intersecting the lands in various places, few of which,
however, have been rendered navigable.
The quantity of land which is arable and in cultiva-
tion, is little more than 100,000 acres ; about 30,000
acres are in woodland and plantations, and the re-
mainder, nearly 1,300,000 acres, with the exception of
about 25,000 in inland lakes and rivers, is principally
heath, and hill and mountain pasture. The soil of the
arable land is extremely various : along the coasts, it is
generally a light gravelly loam, resting upon a clayey
bottom, and differing in fertility in different places ; on
the lower grounds, in some parts, is a mixture of clayey
loam ; in others, a kind of black mossy earth ; and on
the slopes of the hills, a light gravelly soil. The system
of agriculture is moderately improved, and the rotation
plan of husbandry is growing into use ; the chief crops
ARGY
A RN G
are, oats, bear, and potatoes, with peas and beans, and va-
rious green crops ; the cultivation of turnips has been
extensively introduced. Wheat of excellent quality has
been raised, but, though the soil, in many parts, is favour-
able to its growth, very little attention is paid to its cul-
ture ; flax, for domestic use, is raised in considerable
quantities. The cattle are principally of the black West
Highland breed, and, being in much demand, on account
of the superior beef they afford, are reared to a great
extent throughout the county, especially in the islands,
though sheep form the principal article of trade. The
sheep-farms are, in general, very extensive, and the stock
is principally of the Linton or black-faced breed, though
gradually giving place to the Cheviot breed, which has
been lately introduced, and found equally well adapted
to the pastures, and more profitable. The rateable
annual value of the county is £"261,920.
The chief Substrata are, limestone, which is very abun-
dant, and freestone of various kinds and colours, of
which some fine specimens are found in Cantyre, and
also in Glenorchy. Slate is abundant in the neighbour-
hood of Easdale, and is also wrought in the district of
Appin : near Inverary, is a kind of granite which is
susceptible of a high polish, resembling spotted marble ;
and there are quarries of marble in Lorn, on the estate
of Lochiel, and in the island of Tiree, which last is of
very beautiful quality. Coal is found near Campbelltown,
and is wrought for the supply of that district ; and
there are indications of coal in Morven, and in the isle
of Mull. Lead-ore has been wrought at Strontian, and
found in other places ; a copper-mine has been opened
in the parish of Kilmalie, and there are, in the moun-
tains, numerous vestiges of ancient iron-works, though
no ore of sufficient quality to remunerate the expense
of working it, is now found. The greater portion of the
county was anciently covered with Woods, of which there
are at present but very small remains, though the defi-
ciency has been partly supplied by modern plantations,
especially on the lands of the Duke of Argyll. The
soil and climate are well adapted to the growth of tim-
ber of every kind ; the most flourishing at present are,
oak, beech, elm, plane, birch, ash, chesnut, larch, and
Scotch, spruce, and silver firs ; and within the last few
years plantations have been gradually increasing. The
principal manufacture is that of wool, which has been
made into carpets, under the auspices of the Duke
of Argyll ; but it is limited to a very small extent. The
spinning of flax is carried on, solely for domestic use ;
there are several distilleries, tanneries, and some bleach-
fields ; and the herring-fishery in Loch Fine is on
an extensive scale. Facility of intercourse has been
obtained by the formation of roads in various directions,
and canals ; and from the inlets from the sea, every
advantage of steam navigation is obtained. There are
numerous remains of ancient castles, forts, Danish en-
campments, monasteries, and other religious houses,
cairns, tumuli, Druidical remains, vitrified forts, many
Fingalian relics, and other monuments of antiquity, all
jf which are noticed in the articles on the several loca-
lities where they occur. The county confers the title of
Duke on the celebrated family of Campbell, who were
created Earls of Argyll in 1457, advanced to the Mar-
quessate in 1641, and made Dukes in 1701, and who
also bear several dignities named after different divisions
of the county.
70 "
ARINANGOUR, a village, in the island of Coll,
parish of Tiree and Coll, county of Argyll ; con-
taining about 170 inhabitants. This place, situated
about the middle of the island of Coll, contains the only
harbour of any note in that portion of the parish ; it
has a pier, and is considered a safe retreat for shipping,
but has the disadvantage of a rocky entrance.
ARMADALE, a village, in the parish of Bathgate,
county of Linlithgow, 2 miles (W.) from Bathgate ;
containing 121 inhabitants. This place derives its name
from an estate in the vicinity, which once belonged to a
senator in the college of justice whose title was Lord
Armadale. The road from Linlithgow to Whitburn runs
through the village, and it is also situated on the road
between Edinburgh and Glasgow, from which cities it is
nearly equidistant ; the population is employed in agri-
culture, and in the mines and quarries of the neigh-
bourhood.
ARNGASK, a parish, in the counties of Fife, Kin-
ross, and Perth, 6 miles (N. N. E.) from Kinross ;
containing, with the villages of Damhead and Duncrivie,
750 inhabitants. This parish constitutes a portion of the
Ochil hills, and is situated around the junction of the
counties of Perth, Fife, and Kinross, at Damhead. It is
nearly of a circular figure, and extends in length four
miles from east to west, and about three from north to
south, comprising 61 16 acres, of which 4590 are ara-
ble, 1291 uncultivated, and the remainder plantations,
formed chiefly within the last thirty years. The surface
is in general hilly, consisting of numerous undulations
and smooth round eminences varying from 600 to 800
feet in height above the level of the sea. Some are pic-
turesque and well-wooded, and among the many points
commanding extensive and interesting views, that of
Cairn-Geddes, a part of the lands of Fordel, is especially
worthy of notice, as affording a diversified and magnifi-
cent prospect, embracing the Frith of Tay, the Carse of
Gowrie, the Sidlaw hills, the upper portion of Strathearn,
and a large section of the Grampians. The Farg, a fine
trout-stream much frequented by anglers, rising near
the western boundary, separates the parish, for more
than a mile, from that of Forgandenny, and divides, in
its onward course till it reaches Damhead, the counties
of Perth and Kinross, after which it runs between the
counties of Perth and Fife, till it departs from this loca-
lity, in about the centre of the celebrated and romantic
glen to which it gives its name.
The uncultivated part of the lands contains large
tracts of a moorish or heathy soil ; but the soil which
prevails in other portions is mostly a good black loamy
earth, partially formed from the decomposition of the
trap or whinstone rocks, and, though light and shallow
in some places, is generally rich, and produces abun-
dant crops, consisting of the ordinary sorts of grain,
including wheat, and peas, potatoes, turnips, and grass
for hay. In consequence of the introduction of bone
manure, turnip husbandry has, within these few years,
been greatly extended, the root being eaten off the
ground by the sheep, to the decided advantage of the
soil. The parish contains four mills for grinding corn,
and twenty-two for threshing, twenty of which are
worked by horses, one by steam, and the other by water.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £4394, of
which £1909 are for the Fife portion, £1344 for the
Kinross portion, and £1141 for that in Perthshire.
ARRO
A R RO
Duncrivie is pleasantly situated at the southern extre-
mity of the parish ; and Damhead lies in the vale
through which passes the great north road from Edin-
burgh to Aberdeen, and has a post-office, established in
1838, in connexion with Kinross on the south, and
Bridge of Earn on the north. About eight hand-looms
are in operation, and there is a saw- mill, worked by
water. Cattle-fairs are held at Damhead on the last
Tuesday in April (O. S.), the first Thursday in August,
and the first Tuesday in October; there is also a cattle-
market, held from time immemorial, at Lustielaw on
the third Tuesday in May (O. S.). The parish is in the
presbytery of Perth and synod of Perth and Stirling,
and in the joint patronage of Mrs. Wardlaw and Robert
Low, Esq.; the minister's stipend is £1*8. 19. 10.,
with a manse and offices, built in 1829, and a glebe
valued at £9. 13. 4. per annum. The church, pleasantly
and conveniently situated, is a plain substantial edifice,
built in 1S06, and contained, previously to 1821, 240
sittings, at which period 140 additional sittings were
obtained, by the erection of galleries. The parochial
school affords instruction in Latin and Greek, in addi-
tion to the usual branches ; the master has a salary of
£34, including allowance for garden, besides £26 fees.
ARNPRIOR, a hamlet, in the parish of Kippen,
county of Perth ; containing 96 inhabitants. It is
situated to the south of the river Forth, and had an-
ciently a castle, of which the remains may be traced.
ARNTULLY, county of Perth. — See Airntully.
ARNYFOUL, a hamlet, in the parish of Glammis,
county of Forfar ; containing 73 inhabitants.
ARRAN, an island, in the county of Bute ; com-
prising the parishes of Kilbride and Kilmory, and con-
taining 6241 inhabitants. This island, called Glotta
Astuarium by the Romans, is situated in the Frith of
Clyde, between the coast of Ayrshire, which is on the
east, distant about thirteen miles, and Cantyre, in Ar-
gyllshire, lying to the west, and distant about six miles.
It is of an oval form, indented by bays, and thirty miles
in length, and fifteen in its greatest breadth ; the sur-
face throughout is rugged and mountainous, and inter-
sected with mossy glens, whence streams, flowing from
the heights, make their course to the sea. There are
several safe and commodious harbours, of which that of
Lamlash, on the east side, will afford good anchorage to
several hundred vessels ; and the Cock of Arran, on the
northern extremity, is a well-known landmark. The
higher parts of the island are rocky and sterile, and
generally covered with fern and heath, but in the valleys,
and in the vicinity of the lakes, which are five in number,
the soil is moderately fertile, though not well cultivated.
Coal and limestone are said to exist ; freestone, iron-
stone, and marble are abundant, and jasper has been
found on Goat-Fell, a hill above 3000 feet in height.
There are several cairns, and some remains of Druidical
edifices, many ruins of ancient fortresses, and some
natural caves, remarkable for their great extent ; and
various places exhibit marks of volcanic fire. Arran is
the property of the Duke of Hamilton, and gives the
title of Earl to his grace, who has an ancient seat here,
called Brodick Castle. — See Kilbride, and Kilmory.
ARROCHAR, a parish, in the county of Dumbar-
ton, 22 miles (N. N. W.) from Dumbarton, and 22
(E. S. E.) from Inverary; containing 580 inhabitants.
The name of this place, which, at different times, has
71
been variously spelt, is derived from a Gaelic term sig-
nifying "high,'' or " hilly," in reference to the nature of
the ground. The parish is remarkable for the magnifi-
cence of its scenery, and is much resorted to by tourists
on account of the peculiar and numerous attractions
which it presents, as well as from the excellence of the
inns, the good order of the roads, and other advantages.
It was disjoined from the parish of Luss in 1658 ; it is
about 15 miles long, and 3 broad, and contains 31,000
acres, including two farms named Ardleish and Doune,
which lie on the east side of Loch Lomond, and oc-
cupy the north-eastern extremity of the parish, almost
separated from the main portion by the lake. The
parish is bounded on the north by the parish of
Strathfillan, in Perthshire ; on the south, by the water
of Douglas, and part of Luss ; on the east, by Loch
Lomond ; and on the west, by Loch Long, and part of
Argyllshire. The surface is altogether hilly and
mountainous, and has a line of coast bounding Loch
Lomond, of about 14 miles, and a coast of three
miles extending along Loch Long ; on the Lomond side,
the shore is fiat and sandy, and diversified by numerous
bays and headlands. The mountain of Ben-Vorlich,
clothed with rich pasture, is the most elevated in the
parish, rising 3000 feet above the sea ; and this spot is
frequented by white hares, ptarmigan, and various wild
fowls. There are some beautiful cascades, and four
rivers, none of which are of large extent ; viz., the
Falloch, the Inveruglass, the Douglas, and the Linnhe,
the three first of which run into Loch Lomond, and the
last into Loch Long. Loch Lomond, which is 24
miles long, in some parts 7 broad, and varies in depth
from 60 to 100 fathoms, abounds with bold and ro-
mantic scenery, and is considered the finest sheet of
water throughout the country ; it contains salmon,
trout, pike, perch, eels, and powans, generally called
fresh-water herrings. Loch Long is about 21 miles in
length, and 1^ or 2 in breadth, and its depth is from 10
to 20 fathoms ; the fish found in it are, halibut, soles,
flounders, whitings, skate, lythe, sethe, cod, salmon,
trout, herrings, &c. Its banks, in some parts, exhibit
fine picturesque breaks, especially at the opening of
Loch Goil, and towards its head, the scenery is equal to
any part of Lomond. The soil, except in some dis-
tricts, is thin and poor, and only about 300 or 400 acres
are arable ; a considerable number of acres are under
wood, and on the shores of Loch Lomond, are large
plantations of oak, which are annually thinned ; the
remaining land consists of indifferent pasture. The
sheep are the black-faced, and the cattle comprise both
the native breed and those introduced from Argyllshire ;
some waste, to the extent of about 50 acres, has been
reclaimed within these few years, but the inclosures and
farm-buildings generally are in an indifferent state. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £3096. The
rocks consist, for the most part, of mica slate ; in some
parts, are traces of iron-ore, and there are two whin-
stone quarries near the whinstone dyke between Lochs
Lomond and Long.
The parish contains two small villages, in addition to
which, within the last few years, a considerable number
of houses have been erected, for sea-bathing visiters; and
among the inns is one which ranks as one of the most
commodious and excellent in Scotland, and which was,
before being converted to its present use, the mansion of
ASHK
ASSY
the chief of the Macfarlane clan. During the summer
months, a coach runs daily from Inverary to Tarbet, in
the morning, and returns in the afternoon ■ and vehi-
cles of every description may be obtained at the inns of
Tarbet and Arrochar, whither visiters come from all parts,
to view the scenery in the neighbourhood of the lakes.
Steam-boats run on Lochs Lomond and Long, from
May till October ; another plies between Arrochar and
Glasgow ; and ships with coal and lime from Glasgow
and Ireland, frequently come to the head of Loch Long,
whence, also, wool is often sent to the market at Liver-
pool. A herring-fishery is carried on in Loch Long,
with considerable profit, during the months of June and
July, the boats employed advancing successively to
Loch Fine and the neighbourhood of Campbelltown,
where they fish to the end of the season ; each boat
contains about three men, and produces, in the season,
from £30 to £60. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject
to the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr ; the patronage belongs to Sir James Colqu-
houu, Bart., and the minister's stipend is £241, with a
glebe worth £13 a year, and a manse, erected in 1S37.
The church, situated in a corner of the parish, was
built in 1733, and is in indifferent repair, and of insuffi-
cient size, containing only 300 sittings. A place of
worship has been erected in connexion with the Free
Church. There is a parochial school, in which the
ordinary branches of education are taught, and of which
the master has the maximum salary of £34. 4., with
£8 fees, and a house ; and another school, privately
endowed, affords instruction in the classics, mathe-
matics, and the other usual subjects, by a master who
receives £25 from the resident proprietor of land, and
about £15 or £20 fees.
ARTHURLEE, CROSS, a village, in the quoad
sacra parish of Barrhead, parish of Neilston, Upper
ward of the county of Renfrew ; containing 663 in-
habitants. This place owes its origin to the establish-
ment of a bleachfield in its vicinity, by a gentleman
named Adair, about the year 1773; it was chosen by
him as a most suitable situation for works of this nature,
and his example having been followed by others, the
neighbourhood has since become a considerable bleach-
ing district. The village is situated in the north-eastern
part of the parish, and not far distant from Barrhead.
ARTHURLEE, WEST, a village, in the parish of
Neilston, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, ^ a
mile (VV.) from Barrhead; containing 441 inhabitants.
This village, which is situated a little to the west of the
road between Neilston and Barrhead, owes its origin
to the introduction of the cotton manufacture, and is
chiefly inhabited by persons employed in the bleaching
and printing establishments connected with that trade.
ASHK1RK, a parish, partly in the county of Sel-
kirk, but chiefly in the district of Hawick, county of
Roxburgh, 6 miles (S.) from Selkirk; containing 563
inhabitants. This place, of which the name is said to
have been derived from the great number of ash-trees
with which the neighbourhood abounded, and of which
a considerable number is still remaining, was formerly
part of the see of Glasgow,' and the occasional residence
of the bishops, who had a palace here, of which some
vestiges might lately be traced in a field retaining the
name of Palace Walls. The parish is about seven miles
in length, and three miles and a half in breadth, and
comprises about 3000 acres under cultivation, 400 in
woods and plantations, and a considerable portion of
waste. The surface is generally hilly, with portions of
level land in the intervals between the hills and the
narrow valley of the Ale. The Ale has its source
in the lakes of Alemoor and Shaws, and, flowing
through the parish, in a direction from west to east,
divides it into two nearly equal portions ; it abounds
with trout of excellent quality, and a few sea-trout, and
small salmon, are occasionally taken in it, after floods.
There were formerly numerous lakes in the parish, but,
from the practice of draining the lands, many of them
have disappeared. The principal now remaining are,
Essenside loch, covering about twenty acres of ground ;
and the Sheilswood loch, and Headshaw loch, both of
which are of smaller dimensions. They all abound with
perch, pike, and trout ; and afford good sport to the
angler. Synton Moss, once a very extensive lake, has
been completely drained, for the sake of obtaining the
marl and peat with which it abounded, and which have
been successfully applied to the improvement of the
lands. In this moss, many interesting organic remains
are occasionally dug up.
The soil is generally light ; in some places clay,
mixed with gravel, and in others a rich loam ; the chief
crops are, oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips.
The system of agriculture is improved, and the farm-
houses are in general substantial and comfortable ;
some few dairy-farms are managed with great attention,
and the butter produced here is of excellent quality.
Considerable attention is paid to the rearing of live
stock, upon which the main dependence is placed ; the
sheep are almost exclusively of the Cheviot breed, with
occasionally a mixture of the Cheviot and Leicestershire ;
and the cattle are of the short-horned breed, which are
found to be the best adapted to the lands. A few
Highland cattle are pastured here during the winter.
There appears to have been formerly a great abundance
of natural wood, but, at present, very little ancient tim-
ber remains : the plantations are, larch, and spruce and
Scotch firs, intermixed with oak, ash, elm, and other
forest trees ; they are all of modern formation, and are
in a thriving state. The rateable annual value of the
Roxburgh portion of the parish is £3483, and of the
Selkirk portion, £1510. The substratum is chiefly
greywacke, of which the hills are mainly composed, and
clay-slate. The parish is in the presbytery of Selkirk
and synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; the minister's
stipend is £205. 12. 9., with a manse, and a glebe valued
at £28 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Minto. The
church, erected in 1791; is a plain substantial edifice,
and is adapted for about 200 persons. A place of wor-
ship has been erected in connexion with the Free Church.
The parochial school is attended by about 80 children ;
the master's salary is £34, with £16 fees, and a house
and garden. There are remains of two Danish encamp-
ments on the lands of Castleside, one of which is in
good preservation, but the other is almost obliterated by
the plough. On the lands of Salineside was formerly a
very strong tower, of which there are scarcely more
than some slight vestiges ; and in various parts of the
parish, are remains of ancient encampments.
ASSYNT, a parish, in the county of Sutherland,
30 miles (N. W. by W.) from Dornoch ; containing,
with the quoad sacra district of Stocr, and the village of
ASSY
ATHE
Lochinver, 317S inhabitants. This place, which is sup-
posed to take its name from its irregular boundary line,
the Gaelic term, as agus innte, signifying " out and in,"
was once a forest of the ancient thanes of Sutherland,
one of whom gave it in vassalage to Mac-Kry-Cul, who
held that part of the coast of Coigach, afterwards called
the village of Ullapool, as a reward for his having re-
covered a great quantity of cattle that had been carried
off from the county of Sutherland, by the Scandina-
vians, who had also burnt the great fir forests on this
and the neighbouring coast. Mac-Kry-Cul's family, by
the disasters of war, being reduced to one heir female,
she was given in marriage to a younger son of McLeod,
laird of Lewis, with the consent of the Thane of Suther-
land, who made this parish over to the newly-married
couple, with its superiority, and after this event, there
were fourteen successive lairds of the name of McLeod.
About 1660, the parish and its superiority became the
property of the Earl of Seaforth, from whom it passed
to a younger son of his family, whose successors pos-
sessed it for three or four generations ; and it was
afterwards purchased by Lady Strathnaver, who pre-
sented it to her noble grandson, William, Earl of Suther-
land, from whom it has descended to the present Duke
of Sutherland.
The extreme length of the parish is about 36 miles,
and its greatest breadth 18; it contains 97,000 acres.
It is in the north-west part of the county, and divided
on the north from the parish of Eddrachillis, in the Reay
country, by an arm of the sea called the Kyle, and
is bounded on the west by the Atlantic Ocean. The
coast, which is about 20 miles in extent, is bold, rocky,
and dangerous, and has several extensive and interest-
ing caves ; but in some places, is a fine sandy bottom,
with safe landing. There are numerous islands attached
to the parish, some of which are merely bare rocks,
affording neither pasture nor shelter ; the most consi-
derable is that of Oldney, which is about a mile long,
and a quarter of a mile wide, and is used for the pas-
turage of sheep ; the other islands are, Crona, Soya, and
Klett. The appearance of the district is altogether wild
and mountainous, and its scenery romantic ; the most
remarkable heights are, Benmore, Cuniack, Suilvhen,
and Cannisb, of which Benmore, the highest mountain,
rises about 3230 feet above the level of the sea. The
hills, also, are very numerous, and most of them abound
with springs of excellent water. There are several fine
lakes, among which that of Assynt is pre-eminent ; it is
above seven miles long, and about a mile broad, with
banks in most places covered with brushwood, and is a
fresh-water lake, abounding in trout, and distinguished
for its striking and singularly picturesque scenery. The
principal part of the parish is employed in sheep-farm-
ing, to which much attention is paid ; and the larger
part of the population dwell along the shores, and avail
themselves of the advantages offered for fishing, from
which, together with their small allotments of land, they
draw their subsistence. Game is plentiful. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £1212. There is
some sandstone rock, but limestone is the prevailing
formation, of which an immense ridge, on the Stron-
chrubie farm, extends about a mile and a half, overhang-
ing the public road, being mantled, in many places,
with ivy, and forming a covert for birds of prey.
The village of Lochinver has several good houses and
Vol. I.— 73
shops, and near it is a manufactory for preserving
butcher's meat, fish, and vegetables, fresh, for the pur-
pose of being carried out to sea; there is a post-office
here, and another near the church. Excellent roads
have been formed, extending forty miles in length, as
well as numerous local roads for parochial use ; at
Lochinver is a small harbour with a pier, and several
creeks afford shelter and anchorage. There are two
small fisheries, let at a moderate rent, and one or two
vessels belong to Assynt, besides which, several come
in the herring season, to fish on the coasts, and a few
to take the disposable produce of the parish, which
consists chiefly of wool. An annual cattle-fair has been
recently established at Inchnadaff. The ecclesiastical
affairs are subject to the presbytery of Dornoch and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness ; the Duke of
Sutherland is patron, and the stipend of the minister
is £158. 6. 8., with a glebe worth about £35. 10. per
annum, and a manse. The church, a small building,
seating about 2S0 persons, is inconveniently situated at
a distance of nine miles from the southern boundary of
the parish, the great bulk of the population residing at
distances varying from 12 to IS miles; it was built
about 60 years since, and has been extensively repaired.
There are two preaching stations, the one at Lochinver,
fourteen miles from the church, and the other at Kyle
side, nearly the same distance, tire services of which are
performed by the parochial minister ; at Stoer, is a
government church, built, in 1S29. A place of worship
has been erected in connexion with the Free Church.
The parish has a parochial school, of which the master
receives a salary of £34 ; and several other schools are
supported by general societies for promoting education.
Among the antiquities are, Ardvrack Castle, built by
the Mc Leods, about the year 1590, and now in ruins;
Calda House, erected by the Mc Kenzies ; and a large
Druidical temple.
ATHELSTANEFORD, a parish, in the county of
Haddington, 3 miles (N. E. by N.) from Haddington,
and 9 (W.) from Dunbar; containing 991 inhabitants,
of whom 27-1 are in the village. This place, which is
noticed by Camden, is said to have derived its name
from Athelstan, an English warrior, who was killed in
battle, together with the greater number of his forces,
about the commencement of the ninth century, and was
interred here. The parish is about four miles in length,
and three in breadth, and bounded on the north by the
streamlet called the Peffer ; the surface is abruptly ir-
regular, consisting of large tracts of low land, and ele-
vated ridges of rock, in some places sloping gently
towards the plain, and in others forming a nearly hori-
zontal level of considerable height. The scenery is
greatly diversified, affording, in parts, a striking con-
trast of richly cultivated fields and barren and rugged
rocks ; and from the higher grounds are obtained ex-
tensive and interesting views of the Frith of Forth,
the Bass rock, and the county of Fife. The lands are
watered by two streams, of which that called the Peffer
rises in a meadow in the lowlands, and joins the sea
below Tynninghame bay ; and the other, flowing west-
ward, after a course of five miles, falls into the sea at
Aberlady bay. The channel of the Peffer was widened,
and made deeper, some years since, on which occasion
several stags' horns were found, at a depth of nearly
three feet below the surface of its bed, and large oaks
L
AT H E
AUCH
were discovered imbedded in moss on the banks, which,
previously to the practice of draining the lands, were
nearly covered with the water that stagnated on the
adjoining woodlands. The number of acres in the pa-
rish has been estimated at more than 4000, of which
nearly 3800 are arable, and the remainder, with the
exception of about 50 acres of hilly pasture, are in
woods and plantations. The soil has been much im-
proved by draining, and great quantities of marshy and
previously unprofitable land have been rendered fertile ;
the chief crops are, wheat, for which the soil is ex-
tremely favourable, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips ;
a considerable number of sheep are reared, and fed prin-
cipally on turnips. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £7996. The substrata are mostly whinstone
and porphyry, of which the rocks consist ; coal is sup-
posed to exist, but it lies at so great a depth from the
surface that none has yet been discovered ; some beau-
tiful specimens of rock crystal are found in the quar-
ries, which are wrought for building purposes, and for
the roads. Gilmerton is a spacious and splendid seat:
the only other residence of note in the parish, is an
ancient baronial mansion, formerly belonging to the
earls of Wiuton, a quadrilateral building, of which a
small part only is now inhabited, and the remainder is
in ruins ; the principal room is still preserved, and at-
tached to the house are a large garden and a bowling-
green.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintend-
ence of the presbytery of Haddington and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale ; Sir David Kinloch, Bart., is
patron, and the stipend of the incumbent is £262. 0. 7- ;
the manse is a comfortable residence, and the glebe
comprises 5 acres, valued at £15 per annum. The old
church, which belonged to the monastery founded at
Haddington, by Ada, Countess of Northumberland,
mother of Malcolm IV., was used till the year 1780,
when, falling into a dilapidated state, the present church
was erected, in a more convenient situation, for a con-
gregation of 500 persons. The parochial school affords
education to about eighty scholars ; the master has a
salary of £35. 10., with a house and garden, and the
fees are £48 ; the schoolroom is one of the best in the
county. On the spot where Athelstan is said to have
been buried, a stone coffin was found, by some men who
were quarrying stone for mending the roads, a few years
since ; the coffin, consisting of five stones cemented
together, was lodged in the rock, which had been exca-
vated for its reception, about two feet below the surface,
and contained a human skeleton, in a state of almost
total decomposition. The lands on which the battle of
Athelstaneford was fought, were anciently given by the
king of Scotland to the Culdee priory of St. Andrew's,
in acknowledgment of the victory obtained ; and at the
Revolution, they were bestowed upon the royal chapel
of Holyrood House. On the lands constituting the
barony of Drem, are the remains of a Pictish town, con-
sisting of various houses built round the brow of a low
hill of conical form, which had been strongly fortified
by three tiers of ramparts, with a deep circumvallation
below ■ these works are supposed to have been thrown
up as a defence against the Romans, who had a station
about half a mile distant, on the alleged site of which,
various Roman relics have been found, including an
urn of superior workmanship, containing burnt bones.
74
There are some remains of the ancient church, built in
the early part of the 12th century, by Ada, and in which
service was originally performed by the monks of Had-
dington. Among the eminent men of the place, has
been the Rev. Robert Blair, author of The Grave, who
was, for fifteen years, incumbent, and was interred in
the churchyard, in which a monument was erected to
his memory ; his son, the late Robert Blair, lord presi-
dent of the court of session, was born here, during the
incumbency of his father. John Home, author of the
tragedy of Douglas, was incumbent after the death of
the Rev. Robert Blair ; and Archibald Skirving, an
eminent portrait painter, who, having perfected himself
in the study of his profession at Rome, exercised it here
for many years, with great success, was also a native of
the parish.
AUCHANDRYNE, a village, in the parish of Brae-
mar and Crathie, district of Kincardine O'Neil,
county of Aberdeen ; containing 174 inhabitants.
AUCHINBLAE, a village, in the parish of For-
doun, county of Kincardine, 5 miles (N. by E.) from
Laurencekirk; containing 643 inhabitants. This place, of
which the name signifies "the field of blossoms," is situ-
ated on the banks of the Luther water, and on the side
of a fine valley, gently sloping to the south. It contains
several well-built houses, and has risen into considera-
tion within the last half century, the population finding
employment from the increase of the trade and manu-
factures, the principal of which latter are yarn and
brown linen. Fairs are held in the village in April and
May, and, during the winter portion of the year, mar-
kets on every Friday, for the sale of cattle and grain.
A daily post passes through, on its route between Stone-
haven and Montrose.
AUCHINCAIRN, a village, in the parish of Rer-
rick, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 7 miles (E.) from
Kirkcudbright; containing 373 inhabitants. It is seated
at the north-western extremity of the fine bay of Auch-
incairn, or Balcarry, which is about two miles in length,
and one in breadth. The bay has a beach of smooth
and firm sand, and small vessels may load and unload
on any part of it ; on the west side, is a large natural
basin, where ships of burthen find safe anchorage in the
most stormy weather, and at every point of the wind.
A penny-post is established here, under the Castle-
Douglas office. In the village is one of the parochial
schools, and children are also taught in a Baptist place
of worship.
AUCHINCRAW, a village, in the parish of Cold-
ingham, county of Berwick, 2 miles (N. W.) from
Ayton ; containing 203 inhabitants. It is situated at
the boundary of the parish ; and upon the height called
Warlaw, to the westward, is a camp of oval form, cover-
ing an area of five or six acres of very poor moorland,
but respecting which both history and tradition are
silent. In the village, is a school connected with the
Burgher dissenting synod.
AUCHINDOIR and KEARN, a parish, in the district
of Alford, county of Aberdeen, 36 miles (W. N. W.)
from Aberdeen; containing 1188 inhabitants. The
name of Auchindoir, which is of Gaelic origin, and sig-
nifies " the field of pursuit," is supposed to have been
applied, in the present case, from the circumstance of
Luthlac, son of Macbeth, having been pursued through
the valley of Auchindoir to that of Bogie, where he was
AUCH
A U C H
overtaken and slain by Malcolm ; and the term Kearn
is said to be a corruption of Cairn, there being a remark-
able cairn or tumulus in that district, of the history
of which nothing, however, is known. The two parishes
were united in 1811, previously to which Kearn was
joined to Forbes. The length of the habitable part is
about seven miles, and the breadth nearly the same, and
the parishes, together, contain about 15,600 acres
under cultivation, and "2100 under plantation and natu-
ral wood, besides pasture and waste. The surface is
varied and irregular, and consists of numerous hills
and pleasing valleys, ridges, and mountains, some of
which are covered with wood, and have a considerable
elevation ; Correen, in the southern quarter, being about
1350, and the Buck of the Cabrach, in the west, 2377
feet above the sea. The climate in the higher parts is
cold and bleak, exposed to severe frosts and heavy falls
of snow, but in the lower and more sheltered places, it
is temperate and salubrious. The river Bogie, which is
formed by the junction of the Craig and Corchinan
burns, after pursuing a serpentine course of about eleven
miles, through a fine valley, joins the Doveran at
Huntly ; it is plentifully supplied with fine trout. The
Don runs, for about two miles, on the south-eastern
boundary ; and the small stream of Mossat. divides the
parish from Kildrummy, on the south.
The soil presents a considerable variety, consisting
in some parts of a rich alluvial loam, and in other places
of clay, with a large proportion of sand and pebbles ;
in the lower grounds, it is, in general, sharp, dry, and
fertile, but towards the hills, mossy and poor. The
quantity of arable land is on the increase, much barren
land having been reclaimed, and the method of cultiva-
tion has recently been considerably improved ; the
houses and cottages, also, are in a much better condition
than they were thirty years since. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £3600. The plantations are
numerous and extensive, and comprise trees of all the
kinds usually reared ; sandstone of excellent quality is
found, as well as limestone, and whinstone is also in
great abundance. There are two gentlemen's seats,
Craig and Druminnor, both of which are of considerable
antiquity, the former bearing the date 15 IS, and the
latter, which was once the chief seat of the Forbes
family, that of the year 1577. Near the castle of Craig,
is the " Den," a celebrated spot in this part of the
country, and much resorted to by tourists as an object
of curiosity, surrounded by scenery of a varied and
beautifid description. The only village is Lumsden,
which is of recent growth, and contains about 300 per-
sons, chiefly traders and handicraftsmen ; but the main
population of the parish is agricultural, being em-
ployed in the rural districts in cultivating the land, and
in rearing cattle, for the sale of which four markets
are held during the year. Here is a post-office. The
ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the presbytery of
Alford and synod of Aberdeen ; the Earl of Fife is
patron. The minister's stipend is £158, part of which
is received from the exchequer ; there is a manse, erected
in 1843, and the glebe is valued at £10 a year. The
church, which was built in 1811, accommodates 450
persons, but is much too small for the population. At
Lumsden, is a place of worship belonging to the United
Associate Synod ; a place of worship has been erected
in connexion with the Free Church, and there is a paro-
75
chial school, of which the master has a salary of £30,
about £20 fees, and a house and garden. The moat or
mount on which the ancient Castrum Auchindoria?, men-
tioned by Boethius, seems to have stood, is shown in
the parish ; and another most interesting relic of anti-
quity, situated near it, is the old parochial church, which
is now a venerable ruin, attracting attention from its
ivy-mantled walls, its fine Saxon gateway, and its
inscriptions and sculpture.
AUCHINEARN, OLD and NEW, a village, in the
parish of Cadder, Lower ward of the county of Lanark ;
containing 561 inhabitants, chiefly employed in agri-
culture. A library has been very recently established
in the village, in which, also, is situated one of the
parochial schools, endowed with 1000 merks, by the
late Rev. James Warden. In 1764, Dr. William Leech-
man, principal of the university of Glasgow, and then
proprietor of this estate, gave, in trust to the Kirk
Session, a schoolroom and house for a teacher, with a
small portion of land, on condition that they should
appoint a master. The school-house was handsomely
rebuilt in 1826, by the late Charles Stirling, Esq.,
assisted by Archibald Lamont, Esq., and other heri-
tors.
AUCHINLECK, a parish, in the district of Kyle,
county of Ayr, l-§ mile (N. W.) from Old Cumnock;
containing 1659 inhabitants, of whom about 600 are
in the village. This place, of which the Celtic name is
descriptive of its abounding with stone, is supposed to
be of considerable antiquity ; but little of its history is
known, prior to the commencement of the 18th century,
when the manor, which belonged to a family of the
same name, becoming forfeited to the crown, was
granted by James IV. to Thomas Boswell, a branch of
an ancient family in the county of Fife, ancestor of the
biographer of Dr. Johnson, and who was killed at the
battle of Flodden-field. The parish is about sixteen
miles in length, from east to west, and not more than
two miles in average breadth, and comprises about
19,000 acres, of which 5000 are arable, 300 woodland
and plantations, and 13,000 natural pasture and waste.
The surface is generally elevated ; and towards the east,
the hills rise to a height of upwards of 1000 feet, and
are bleak and sterile. A moss several miles in length,
called Aird's Moss, nearly in the centre of the parish,
gives it a barren appearance ; the vale of Glenmore,
also, of considerable extent, and in a state of nature,
presents features of wild aspect; but the western portion
of the parish, being wholly in cultivation, has an air of
cheerfulness and fertility. The river Ayr, for a small
space, forms a boundary between this parish and that of
Muirkirk, and pursues its winding course into the parish
of Sorn ; aud the Lugar, another river, separates Auchin-
leck, for about five miles, from Cumnock, and, for about
two miles, from the parish of Ochiltree, and flows into
the river Ayr about a mile below this place, near the
town of Mauchline.
The soil is various, generally a stiff retentive clay,
but by draining and good management, has, in many
parts, been rendered productive ; the chief crops are,
oats, potatoes, beans, and turnips, and there are a few
acres of bear, barley, and wheat. Some progress has been
made in furrow-draining ; and a portion of the mossy
land has been reclaimed, and brought into cultivation.
The principal reliance of the farmers is on the dairy,
L2
A U C H
A U C H
and a large number of milch cows, mostly of the Ayr-
shire breed, are kept, and a great many young cattle
are reared ; the milk is chiefly made into cheese of the
Dunlop kind, and sent to the markets of Glasgow and
other towns. A considerable number of sheep are also
fed, of the black-faced breed. The woods contain many
fine specimens of stately timber of ancient growth, and
the plantations are in general thriving and ornamental.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £7497- The
substrata are, limestone, coal, ironstone, sandstone, and
freestone of various sorts : the limestone and coal have
been long extensively wrought, and of the former, there
are two quarries, one on the lands of Auchinleck, pro-
ducing annually about 50,000 bushels of excellent qua-
lity, and one at Dalblair, yielding also a fair quantity.
There is, near these, an inferior kind of coal, which is
used for the burning of lime. Coal-pits have also been
opened on the lands of Mr. Alexander, of Ballochmyle,
on which, as well as on the Auchinleck property,
steam-engines have been erected ; the seams of coal
vary in thickness, and in the depth at which they are
found from the surface, and the average annual produce
is about S500 tons. Freestone is quarried on the banks
of the Lugar, and is much esteemed for millstones ; and
at Wallacetown, is found a stone which is fire-proof.
The present house of Auchinleck is a handsome mansion
in the Grecian style, erected by Lord Auchinleck, and is
situated in a diversified demesne, comprehending much
beautiful scenery, richly wooded.
The village is on the road from Glasgow to Carlisle,
by Kilmarnock : many of the inhabitants are employed
in weaving, for the manufacturers of Paisley and Glas-
gow ; the principal articles are light silks and muslins.
Some females are also employed in flowering muslins, in
a variety of patterns, for which this neighbourhood is
celebrated. The manufacture of snuff-boxes is carried
on to a considerable extent ; it was introduced into this
place from Cumnock, and the workmen here manufac-
ture card and needle cases, and ornamental boxes of
various descriptions. The wood used for this purpose
is plane-tree, and many of the specimens are painted in
devices, tartan plaiding, and other patterns, and, being
well varnished, have a very handsome appearance. They
are quite equal, in point of workmanship, to those made
at Laurencekirk, though sold at an inferior price ;
about sixty dozens are sometimes finished weekly, and
sent off, chiefly to the London market, but the demand
for them is very fluctuating. A fair is held on the
last Tuesday in August, for lambs, and is numerously
attended. The parish is in the presbytery of Ayr and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of Sir James
Boswell, Bart.; the minister's stipend is £161. 1. 11.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 per annum.
The old church is an ancient edifice, to which an aisle
was added by Lord Auchinleck, in 1754 ; and under-
neath it, is the burying-place of the Auchinleck family,
hewn out of the solid rock A new church has been
recently erected, near the site of the former ; it is a
substantial and handsome edifice, adapted for a congre-
gation of 800 persons. There is a place of worship for
members of the Associate Synod. The parochial school
is well attended ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4|.,
with £10 fees, and a house and garden. In the grounds
of Auchinleck House, are some remains of the ancient
castle, in a greatly dilapidated condition ; and in the
75
upper part of the parish, near the junction of the Gelt
and Glenmore streams, are slight remains of the castle
of Kyle, the history of which is involved in great uncer-
tainty. On the banks of the Ayr, near the confines of
the parish of Muirkirk, are the vestiges of some old iron-
works, said to have been established by Lord Cathcart ;
and it is exceedingly probable that new iron- works will
shortly be erected in the parish, which abounds with
ironstone. William Murdoch, of the firm of Bolton
and Watt, of Soho, near Birmingham, and who first
applied gas for the illumination of buildings, was a native
of this parish.
AUCHINLOCH, a hamlet, in the late quoad sacra
parish of Chryston, parish of Cadder, Lower ward of
the county of Lanark, 2 miles (S.) from Kirkintilloch ;
containing 138 inhabitants. This village has its name
from a considerable loch now drained, and owes its
origin to the mines of coal in its immediate vicinity,
which have been worked, on a moderate scale, by its
inhabitants, though the quality is scarcely good enough
to remunerate the expense of obtaining it. There are
also limestone-quarries, from which are raised materials
for building and agricultural purposes, and for which
works have been established at Garnkirk. In the vil-
lage is a school endowed by Patrick Baird with £300,
the interest whereof is paid annually to the master.
AUCHINMULLY, a village, in the parish of Kil-
syth, county of Stirling, 2 miles (E. N. E.) from
Kilsyth; containing 212 inhabitants. It is also called
Lower Banton, and is situated in the east barony divi-
sion of the parish : on the south, flows the river Kel-
vin, from which the village is distant about a mile.
AUCHINRAITH, a hamlet, in the parish of Blan-
tyre, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; contain-
ing 77 inhabitants. It lies to the east of, and is a short
distance from, the village of Blantyre : the Alston
family have a handsome seat here.
AUCHINTIBER, a hamlet, in the parish of Blan-
tyre, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; contain-
ing 73 inhabitants. It is situated in the western part
of the parish, on which side the Rotten-Calder water
forms the boundary, and separates the parish from that
of Kilbride.
AUCHLEVEN, a village, in the parish of Premnay,
district of Garioch, county of Aberdeen ; containing
107 inhabitants. It is seated in the south of the parish,
and on the road from Insch to Keig, which here crosses
the river Gaudy, by a light bridge of two arches, built in
1836. In the village, are three or four engines for
carding wool ; and cloth is manufactured to a small
extent.
AUCHMILLAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Mauch-
line, district of Kyle, county of Ayr, 2 miles (N. by
E.) from Mauchline; containing 24 inhabitants. This
place is situated, equidistantly, between the roads from
Mauchline to Kilmallock and from Sorn Castle to Gal-
ston : the number of the population has latterly de-
clined.
AUCHMITHIE, a village, in the parish of St. Vi-
gean's, county of Forfar, 3| miles (N. E.) from Ar-
broath ; containing 307 inhabitants. It is upon the
coast, and on a high rocky bank which rises nearly 120
feet above the sea ; and is irregularly built, but contains
several good houses, though the dwellings are chiefly
those of fishermen, who form a large part of the
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population. The harbour is a level beach, formed by an
opening between the rocks that here surround the coast :
near the village, is the Gaylet Pot, a remarkable cavern
into which the sea flows. Divine service is performed
in a small chapel, by a minister of the Established
Church.
AUCHNACRAIG, a village, in the parish of Toro-
say, island of Mull, county of Argyll, 18 miles (S. E.)
from Aros. It is situated on the eastern coast of the
island, and has a post-office establishment, and a regular
ferry, first to Kerrera, and thence to the main land near
Oban, affording facility for the transport of horses and
cattle to the several markets, but the number at pre-
sent ferried over is not so great as formerly.
AUCHTERARDER, a town, the seat of a pres-
bytery, and a parish, in the county of Perth, 545 miles
(N. W.) from Edinburgh ; containing, with the villages
of Borland -Park and Smithyhaugh, 3434 inhabitants, of
whom 206S are in the town. This place anciently
belonged to the abbey of Inchaffray ; and in 132S, the
lands were granted, by charter of Robert Bruce, to Sir
William Montifix, justiciary of Scotland, whose daughter
and heiress conveyed them, by marriage, to Sir John
Drummond, with whose descendants they remained till
their forfeiture, by the participation of that family in the
rebellion of 1715. During that period of distraction,
the town was laid waste and burnt by the Pretender's
army, under the Earl of Mar, in order to check the
progress of the royal forces. For this injury, indemni-
fication was promised to the inhabitants, by proclama-
tion issued from the ancient palace of Scone, in 1716;
but the only compensation they received was from the
reigning family, to such of them as had not been con-
cerned in the rebellion. The commissioners appointed
to take charge of the forfeited estates, made a survey of
the barony of Auchterarder, in 1773, by which it ap-
pears that the inhabitants were in a very distressed con-
dition, on account of the backward state of agriculture
and the want of employment, from which, however, they
have been gradually rising ; and since the purchase of
the estate by Captain Hunter, the place has rapidly
improved.
The town, which, upon disputed authority, is sup-
posed to have been anciently a royal burgh, is situated
on the turnpike-road from Glasgow to Perth, and con-
sists chiefly of one street, more than a mile in length, in
which are some well-built houses, and numerous others
of inferior appearance, occupied by weavers and manu-
facturers. The inhabitants are amply supplied with
pure water, from a copious spring, conveyed b3r pipes
into their houses, mainly through the exertions of Cap-
tain Aytoun, in 1S32; and a mechanics' institution, in
which lectures were delivered during the winter months,
formerly existed in the town. The chief trades are,
the weaving of cotton for the manufacturers of Glasgow,
in which more than 500 looms are in constant operation ;
and the making of shawls, blankets, and other articles
of the woollen manufacture. There are two breweries
for ale and beer in operation ; and a branch of the
Central Bank of Scotland, and a branch of the National
Savings' Bank, have been established. The town is
also adequately supplied with gas. A market is held
on Saturday, and is well supplied with provisions and
with grain, for which it is the principal mart of the
district ; and fairs are held on the last Tuesday in
77
Mareh, for grain ; the Thursday after the last Tuesday
in May, for cattle ; the Fridays before the Falkirk trysts
in August, September, and October, for cattle and
horses ; and the 6th of December, for cattle and general
business. The post-office has a tolerable delivery, and
facility of communication with Edinburgh, Glasgow,
Perth, and Stirling, is maintained by good roads : a
survey has been made by subscription, for the construc-
tion of a railway from Perth to Stirling, which, if car-
ried into effect, will pass near the town.
The parish, which includes also the ancient parish
of Aberuthven, united to it prior to the Reformation, is
bounded on the north by the river Earn, and extends
eight miles in length, from north to south, and three
miles in breadth, from east to west, comprising 13,747
acres, of which 7176 are arable, about 300 acres wood-
land and plantations, and the remainder meadow, pas-
ture, and waste. The surface is hilly, and rises from
the banks of the Earn to the Ochils, of which the
highest, Craig Rossie, 2359 feet above the level of the
sea, is within the limits of the parish. The principal
rivers are, the Earn, which rises in Loch Earn, and falls
into the Tay, and the Ruthven, which, after receiving
the waters of several rivulets descending from the
Ochils, flows through the parish, and falls into the Earn :
in the Earn are found salmon and large white and
yellow trout, and in the Ruthven, a sm;.ll species
of trout, remarkable for the delicacy of its flavour.
The soil, in the eastern part of the parish, is light and
sandy ; in the lower lands, a clayey loam ; and in the
neighbourhood of the town, a rich black loam ; the
chief crops are, oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, turnips,
and peas, with the usual grasses. The system of hus-
bandry has been greatly improved ; much waste land
has been reclaimed by embankment, from the overflow-
ing of the Earn, and a considerable stimulus is afforded
by the premiums awarded at an annual ploughing-
match, by the agricultural society of the parish. Cows
of the Ayrshire breed are kept on the dairy-farms ; the
cattle on the pastures are generally the Teeswater, and
on the lower lands, sheep of the Leicestershire breed
have been introduced. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £8600. The substrata are mostly of the
old red sandstone formation, grey slate of good quality
for roofing, and limestone, which, from the scarcity of
fuel, is not much wrought ; a search has been made for
coal, but without success. There is little old wood now
remaining ; the plantations, which are principally of
modern date, are chiefly larch and oak. Auchterarder
House is a handsome mansion in the Elizabethan style,
recently erected, and situated in grounds that have been
greatly improved.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Auchterarder and synod of
Perth and Stirling ; the minister's stipend is £199. 14.2.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £17 per annum;
patron, the Earl of Kinnoull. The church, rebuilt in
17S4, and enlarged in 1S11, is a plain structure, situated
in the town, and containing 930 sittings. At Aberuth-
ven, is the mausoleum of the Graham family, in which
are several coffins containing the remains of departed
dukes of Montrose, and in the vault beneath, have been
interred many of their ancestors. There are places of
worship for members of the Free Church, and of the
Relief and United Secession Synods. The parochial
AUG II
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school is well attended ; the master has a salary of
£34. 4. 4., with a house, and an allowance of £2 in lieu
of a garden ; the fees average about £40 per annum.
There is also a school, for which a building was erected
in 1811, by John Sheddan, Esq., who endowed it with
£1000, the interest of which is paid to the master, on
condition of his teaching twelve children gratuitously.
To the north of the town, are the ruins of a building
supposed to have been a hunting-seat of Malcolm Can-
more ; the walls, which are of great thickness, have
been nearly demolished for building materials. East-
ward of these ruins, are the remains of the ancient
church of St. Mungo, formerly the parish church, the
cemetery of which is still used as a place of sepulture by
the parishioners ; and in digging the foundation for the
present church, a coin of the Emperor Titus Vespasian
was found, in a very perfect state.
AUCHTERDERRAN, a parish, in the district of
Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, 6 miles (N. W. by W.)
from Kirkcaldy; containing 1913 inhabitants, of whom
770 are in the village of Lochgelly. This parish is
about six miles in length, and three in breadth ; the
surface is mostly flat, though varying in elevation, the
lands near Lochgelly being more than 100 feet above
the general level. The river Ore, which has its source
in the parish of Ballingry, flows through this parish,
in its course to the Leven, and has two bridges, each of
one arch ; the scenery is greatly varied, in some parts
dreary, and in others richly ornamented with planta-
tions, especially near the lake of Lochgelly, a large
sheet of water about three miles in circumference, the
shores of which, sometimes wooded, have a beautiful
appearance. The soil is chiefly clay, interspersed with
sand, but in several places are tracts of black loam,
producing abundant crops ; about one-third of the land
is in pasture, about 500 acres wood, and the remainder
arable, in good cultivation. The system of husbandry
has been greatly improved, under the auspices of the
late Lord Minto and other of the landed proprietors ;
a considerable tract of waste was converted into rich
arable land, by the late proprietor of Raith, and is
now one of the most productive farms in the parish.
The crops are, wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, beans, and
peas ; the cattle are of the black Fifeshire breed, and
much attention is paid to their improvement ; the farm-
buildings are commodious, and the lands, which are
well drained, are generally inclosed with stone dykes.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £501S. There
is very little natural wood, and the plantations are
mostly of recent growth; about 15 Scotch acres of
moss have been lately planted with Scotch firs, which
are thriving well. The substratum is mainly whinstone;
limestone of excellent quality is quarried in several
places, and coal is every where abundant. The coal-
mines at Cluny, belonging to Mr. Ferguson, are very
productive ; about 70,000 loads are annually raised, for
the supply of the neighbourhood, and more than 70
persons are employed in the works. The mines on
Lord Minto's lands of Lochgelly produce 50,000 loads
annually, and afford constant occupation to about fifty
persons ; and the works at Dundonald, belonging to
R. W. Ramsay, Esq., produce about 7000 loads. The
parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy and synod of
Fife; the minister's stipend is £237. II. 10., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per annum ; patrons,
78
the Boswell family, of Balmuto. The church was built
in 1789, and is situated near the east side of the
parish. There is a place of worship for Seceders, in
the village of Lochgelly. The parochial school is at-
tended by nearly 100 scholars ; the master has a salary
of £34. 4. 5., with £25 fees, and a good house.
AUCHTERGAVEN, a parish, in the county of
Perth, S§ miles (N. by W.) from Perth ; containing,
with the villages of Bankfoot, Carnie-Hill, and Water-
loo, and part of Stanley, 3366 inhabitants. This place
was distinguished, in former times, as the scene of some
fierce contentions between the Bishop of Dunkeld and
Sir James Criehton, of Strathford, in this parish, who
had forcibly taken possession of the lands of Little
Dunkeld, belonging to that see. In the rebellion of
1745, Lord Nairne, who owned considerable estates
here, embarked in the cause of the Pretender, whom he
joined at Perth, and on his defeat accompanied him to
the continent, where he continued till his death. The
title, upon his attainder, became forfeited ; and the
splendid baronial mansion which he had nearly com-
pleted, to replace the former that had been destroyed
by fire, was sold, with the estates, and afterwards taken
down by the Duke of Atholl, who became the proprietor,
by purchase. The parish, which derives its name from
a Celtic term descriptive of its situation, is about ten
miles in length, and of very irregular form, varying
from less than two to six miles in breadth ; it is
bounded on the east by the river Tay, and on the west
by a brook which separates it from Mullion, a detached
portion of the parish of Redgorton. It comprehends,
within its natural limits, an isolated tract four miles in
length, but of very small breadth, called Tullybeagles,
belonging to the parish of Metbven.
The surface is agreeably diversified with hills and
dales, rising gradually from the banks of the Tay, to a
lofty range on the west and north-west, forming a por-
tion of the Grampian heights, of which the highest
within the parish is Birnam Hill, 1300 feet above the
sea ; the other hills are, Craig-Obney, Craig-Gibbon,
Tullybelton, and Corrody hills, which are not greatly
inferior in elevation. On one of these hills, still called
" Court Hill," the sheriff is said to have held his court,
for the trial of a lawless set of banditti who committed
great depredation on the lands ; and some trees on
which the men were executed, are styled " Hanged
Men's Trees." Numerous streams descend from the
mountains, affording an abundant supply of water, and
adding to the beauty of the scenery, which is richly
embellished with woods and plantations. The principal
of these streams is the Corral burn, which issues from
a spring at the base of the Obney hills, flows through
the village of Bankfoot, and falls into the Garry near
the church, receiving, in its course, the waters of the
Aldinny, which rises also in the Obney hills. The
Garry, issuing from the head of Glen-Garr, flows be-
tween the hills above Strathban, and, after receiving the
waters of the Corral, falls into the Ordie at Loak. The
Ordie has its source in a lake in the hill of Tullybelton,
and, after traversing the centre of the parish, and re-
ceiving the Wynnie, which rises in the district of Tully-
beagles, flows into the Shochie in the parish of Red-
gorton ; the Shochie, which has its source in Glen-Shee,
after receiving the above-named tributary streams, falls
into the Tav.
A U C H
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The parish comprises 19,-00 acres, of which about
6000 are arable, and in a high state of cultivation,
796 woodland, and 1300 pasture. Considerable addi-
tions have been recently made to the arable and pas-
ture lands, by improvements in draining and fencing,
and an advanced state of agriculture, and comparatively
little of the moor and waste will remain long in an un-
productive state. The soil is various in the different
districts, but, in general, is a loam, intermixed with
sand and pebbles, and, in some of the farms, with large
boulders of stone ; in the upper lands, it is very reten-
tive of moisture, and in the lower grounds comparatively
dry and light. The principal crops are, oats, barley,
wheat, potatoes, and turnips ; bone-dust has been in-
troduced for manure, on the turnip lands, with very
great success. Much attention is paid to the rearing of
cattle, which are mostly the Ayrshire, with a cross of
the short-horned breed, and some few of the Angus-
shire; the sheep are nearly all of the Scotch black-faced
kind, which feed in the hills, and a few of the Leicester-
shire, which are pastured on the low lands. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £9S96. The woods
mainly consist of oak, common and mountain ash, elm,
and beech, and the plantations of larch, and spruce and
Scotch firs ; along the banks of the Tay, are some re-
markably fine beech-trees. "The substratum, in the
lower lands, is chiefly gravel of very great depth, inter-
sected by a seam of whinstone, which is quarried for
mending the roads, and alternated with strata of red
sandstone ; the hills are principally of clay-slate and
greywacke, in which masses of quartz are found. At
Glen-Shee is a quarry of slate, of good quality for roof-
ing; there are two varieties, blue and grey, the latter of
which is the more durable : slate of a similar kind was
formerly quarried at Obney and at Tullybeagles. The
sandstone is quarried for building purposes, at Stanley,
and in other parts of the parish ; the finest quarry is
at Speedy Hill ; the stone found here, is of greenish
hue, very compact, and susceptible of a fine polish, and
was employed in the erection of the new castle of Dun-
keld. Stanley House, an ancient mansion to which re-
peated additions have been made, and which is greatly
modernised, is beautifully situated on the shore of the
Tay, embosomed in a richly-wooded demesne, contain-
ing many stately trees : Airlyvvight House is a hand-
some residence of modern erection, on elevated ground
commanding an extensive prospect, and forms an inter-
esting and very prominent feature in the landscape.
A considerable number of the inhabitants are em-
ployed in weaving, for the manufactures of Blairgowrie,
Dundee, Arbroath, Cupar, and Newburgh ; the principal
fabrics are white linens and dowlas, and in the weav-
ing of these, and in spinning and winding, about 300
persons are engaged, of whom a large portion are
females. More than 1000 persons are employed in the
Stanley cotton-works, which are separately described ;
there are five corn and two lint mills. The high road
from Edinburgh to Inverness passes, for five miles,
through the parish. A penny-post has been established
at Bankfoot, which forwards letters to Perth daily ; and
a fair is held in the village of Auchtergaven, on the
second Friday in November, for the sale of cattle, sheep,
and horses, and for agricultural produce. The eccle-
siastical affairs are under the superintendence of the
presbytery of Dunkeld and synod of Perth and Stirling ;
79
patron, the Crown. The parish comprises the small
ancient parish of Logiebride, which was united to it,
by act of parliament, in 1618, and subsequently severed
from it, by the Bishop of Dunkeld, but again united at
the period of the Revolution in the 17th century ; the
church of Logiebride stood on the bank of the Ordie,
but has long since disappeared, though the ancient
cemetery is still used as a place of sepulture. The
stipend of the incumbent is £179- 6. 4.; the manse
is a plain building, erected within the last twenty
years, and the glebe lands are valued at £15 per annum.
The church, situated on an eminence rising from the
road between Dundee and Perth, is a plain substantial
edifice, with a western tower, added by the Duke of
Atholl, and is adapted for a congregation of 1200 per-
sons. There are places of worship for members of the
Free Church, and of the United Seceders' and Relief
Synods. The parochial school affords a liberal course of
instruction ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4^.,
with a house and garden, and the fees average about
£15 per annum. On the farm of Middle Blelock, and at
Obney, are some large upright stones, concerning which
nothing authentic is known. A vitrified fort has been
discovered on Obney Hill ; and near the ruins of
an old chapel, at Tullybeagles, ancient coins have been
discovered, which are in the cabinet of the Literary and
Antiquarian Society of Perth, Human bones have
been found near the site of another chapel, on the
lands of Berryhill farm, in the same district, on the
banks of the Ordie. Near Stanley, are the remains of
a round tower called Inverbervie, or Inchbervis, which
is said to have been originally a religious house, and
a cell to the abbey of Dunfermline ; and on the
wester-town of Kinglands, is a cairn, which has not
been yet explored.
AUCHTERHOUSE, a parish, in the county of
Forfar, 7 miles (N. W. by N.) from Dundee ; contain-
ing, with the villages of Dronley and Kirkton, 769 inha-
bitants. This parish, the name of which is of uncertain
derivation, is nearly of triangular form, and includes
the southern range of the hill of Sidlaw, that eminence
separating it from Strathmore ; and along its southern
boundary runs the Dighty water, which falls into the
Tay, near the influx of the latter into the German Ocean.
It has an undulated surface, covering about 5450 acres,
of which 3567 are under cultivation, 1406 wood, and
the remainder hill pasture. The ground rises from
south to north, and the acclivities are under cultivation
to the spot where the church stands, S00 feet above the
level of the sea ; but, more northerly, the land rises
considerably, reaching, at the White-Sheets, one of the
Sidlaw hills, and the highest part of the parish, to about
1400 feet above the high- water mark at Dundee, and is
there only fit for pasture and plantations. The burn of
Dronley, and that of Auchterhouse, turn several mills
in their separate courses from the west and north-
west, before their junction at the village of Dronley, after
which, the united streams take the name of Dighty, for
the rest of their passage to the ocean. The climate, in
the higher district, is cold and bracing ; in the lower
division it has been much improved, within these few
years, by extensive draining, and is pure and salubrious.
The soil of the uncultivated portions, with slight ex-
ceptions, consists of a thin moorish earth, lying on a
retentive tilly subsoil, supported by a substratum of
AUCH
A UCH
sandstone ; and the land under tillage is mostly a black
mould, in some places sandy, resting on till or marl,
producing, under skilful management, good average
crops of oats and barley, with the usual green crops,
and sometimes wheat, though this last has been nearly
discontinued, not having in general succeeded. The
dairy is much attended to ; subsoil-ploughing and
furrow-draining are extensively practised, with great
advantage ; and, by the kindly feeling and steady co-
operation between landlords and tenants, among many
other improvements, nearly 500 acres of moor, moss,
and bog have been reclaimed, within the present cen-
tury, and now produce fair crops. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £5316.
The soil, throughout the parish, is underlaid with
sandstone, very near the surface, and the Sidlaw hill
consists of the same rock, occasionally intersected with
trap dykes, and supplying a useful material for many
purposes ; a quarry is in operation on the estate of
Scotstown, giving employment to five or six hands.
Plantations comprising larch, spruce, Scotch fir, elm,
ash, plane, and beech, have been formed on the hills, and
on the moors of Dronley and Adamstown, by the Earl of
Camperdown, to the extent of nearly 300 acres, the
spruce and Scotch fir, however, alone being likely to
succeed ; and the Earl of Airlie has planted above 800
acres of the hill of Sidlaw. The old baronial residence
of Auchterhouse, the property of the Earl of Airlie, and
the only mansion in the parish, contains, among its
other grounds, at a short distance, some very fine
orchards. Facility of communication is offered by the
Dundee and Newtyle turnpike-road, running through
the parish, from the southern to the northern extremity,
and by the railway between the same places, which,
entering the parish over Dighty water, on the south-
east, and leaving it at the north-western limit, has a
depot near the Milltown of Auchterhouse. The parish
is in the presbytery of Dundee and synod of Angus and
Mearns, and in the patronage of the Earl of Airlie ; the
minister's stipend is about £200, with a manse, and a
glebe of 7 acres, valued at £15 per annum. The church
was built in 1775, and consists of portions both old and
modern ; it has, on the west, a steeple with a bell, and
on the east a cemetery, very ancient, but in good con-
dition, containing the remains of some members of
the Erskine family, and of those of Lyon and Ogilvy.
The parochial school affords instruction in the usual
branches ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with
£20. 12. 4. fees. Near the mansion of Auchterhouse,
are the ruins of a square building called Wallace Tower,
supposed to have taken its name from a visit paid here
to Sir John Ramsay, the proprietor, by the Scottish
patriot, Sir William Wallace, after lauding at Montrose,
with his French auxiliaries. Not far from this spot, as
well as in other parts of the parish, is one of those
caverns styled " Weems," in which have been found a
hand-mill and various relics, indicating its former use as
an abode of men ; and on the south of the hill of Sid-
law, is a Druidical altar, in good preservation.
AUCHTERLESS, a parish, in the district of Tur-
riff, county of Aberdeen, 7 miles (S. by W.) from
Turriff; containing 1685 inhabitants. The name of
this place is derived from a Gaelic word signifying, " a
cultivated field on the side of a hill," which application
of the term is favoured by the general appearance of the
80
surface. The parish, which is of an irregular oblong
figure, is about 8 miles in length, and 4 in breadth, and
contains nearly 16,000 acres, of which two-thirds are
cultivated, and nearly 500 acres in plantation. It is
bounded on the north-west by the county of Banff, and
is watered by the Ythan, the only considerable stream,
which, rising about a mile from the boundary of Auch-
terless, and flowing through the vale in a north-easterly
direction, discharges its waters into the German Ocean
below Ellon. The soil, in some parts, is clayey, but
more frequently consists of gravel, lying upon a bed of
clay-slate, and is almost uniformly dry. The cattle are
of the Aberdeenshire breed, which sprang from a cross
between the native and the old Fife stock, about 60 or
70 years since ; the sheep, which are not numerous, are
the Cheviots. The husbandry adopted is of the best
kind, and the free use of compost, bone, guano, and
lime manure has much contributed to the fertility of
the soil ; almost every farm, too, of any extent, has a
threshing-mill on the premises, turned by one of the
tributary streams of the Ythan. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £6773. The prevailing rock is a
clay-stone slate, which runs through the whole of the
parish, from north-east to south-west, but lies at too
great a depth to be available for the purposes of quar-
rying. The villages are, Gordonstown, about 2 miles
from the church, and the little hamlet of Kirktown,
where a market is held on the Wednesday after the
second Tuesday in April (O. S.), for the sale of sheep
and cattle, and which is called Donan fair, from the
ancient tutelary saint of the parish. The Aberdeen and
Banff turnpike-road runs, for nearly three miles, along
the eastern extremity of the parish, and affords con-
siderable facility. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject
to the presbytery of Turriff and synod of Aberdeen ;
the patronage belongs to the family of Duff, and the
minister's stipend is £191. 6. 5., with a good manse,
and a glebe of about 6 acres. The church, a plain
edifice, built in 1780, and repaired in 1832, seats 750
persons. In the parochial school, Greek, Latin, and
mathematics, with all the usual branches of education,
are taught; and the master has a salary of £34, £21
fees, and a house and garden. The antiquities comprise
some Druidical circles, a moat, and similar remains.
The parish has been famed for the longevity of several
of its inhabitants, one of whom, Peter Garden, a farmer,
died about the year 1780, at the advanced age of 132,
having lived under ten sovereigns, commencing with
Charles I. ; he was one of the garrison in the old castle
of Towie Barclay, when Montrose defended it against
Argyll.
AUCHTERMUCHTY, a
royal burgh, and a parish,
in the district of Cupar,
county of Fife, 9 miles (W.
by S.) from Cupar ; contain-
ing, -with the village of Dun-
shelt, 3356 inhabitants, of
whom 1340 are in the burgh.
This place, of which the
name, in the Gaelic language,
signifies " the cottage of the
king," is supposed, from that
circumstance, to have been
appropriated to the accommodation of part of the royal
Burgh Seal.
AUCH
A U C H
household, during the king's residence in the palace of
Falkland, about three miles distant, and which had been
previously one of the strongholds of Macduff, Earl of
Fife. The town, which is situated on the road from
Kinross to Cupar, is irregularly built, consisting of se-
veral ill-formed streets and lanes of houses of mean
appearance, many of them having thatched roofs, though
intermixed with some of more modern and handsome
character, with neat gardens attached ; it is inhabited
by an industrious and thriving population, and has a
public library, supported by subscription.
The inhabitants are chiefly employed in hand-loom
weaving, for the manufacturers of Dunfermline, New-
burgh, and Kirkcaldy; the principal articles are linen
goods, consisting of checks, drills, dowlas, sheetings, and
other fabrics, in making which about 1000 persons are
engaged. A considerable number were formerly occu-
pied in these manufactures, on their own account ; but
there are only one or two establishments of the kind
now remaining. On the banks of a rivulet near the
extremity of the town, are, a bleachfield, flour-mill,
and saw-mill ; and there are also a thriving distillery,
and an extensive malting concern. A branch of the
Union Bank of Scotland has likewise been established.
The market, which is on Monday, is well supplied with
grain and provisions of every kind ; and fairs are held
on the 25th of March (O. S.), the 13th of July, and
the 21st of August, for horses and cattle; the July fair
is also a statute-fair. The inhabitants were first in-
corporated by charter of James IV., who erected the
town into a royal burgh ; and its liberties, as such,
were confirmed by James VI. ; but the right of sending
a member to parliament has been lost, from disuse,
though it still retains its corporation, and most of its
other privileges. The government is vested in three
bailies, a treasurer, and a council of fifteen members,
chosen under the authority of the Municipal Reform
act. The magistrates have jurisdiction over the whole
of the royalty, and hold courts for the determination
of civil pleas to any amount ; in criminal cases, their
jurisdiction is confined to misdemeanours. The post-
office has a tolerable delivery ; and facility of commu-
nication with the neighbouring towns, is afforded by
good roads, of which the turnpike-road from Stirling
to St. Andrew's passes through the southern extremity
of the town.
The parish is about four miles in length, from north-
east to south-west, and is from one to two miles in
breadth, comprising about 2900 acres, of which 220 are
woodland and plantations, 90 undivided common, and
the remainder arable land and pasture. The sur-
face is varied; in the south-east, an extensive and richly
fertile plain ; and in other parts, rising to a considerable
elevation. The soil, in the level lands, is a deep loam,
producing abundant crops of all kinds ; and the system
of agriculture has been brought to a state of great per-
fection, under the auspices of the Auchtermuchty Agri-
cultural Society, which holds an annual meeting in the
town, on the first Monday in October, for the distribu-
tion of premiums. The lands have been drained and
inclosed ; the farm-buildings are substantial and well-
arranged ; the pastures are luxuriantly fertile, and the
cattle, which are chiefly of the Fifeshire black breed,
bring a good price in the market. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £6845. The substratum is mostly
Vol. I.— 81
whinstone, which forms the basis of the higher grounds ;
the plantations, mainly of modern growth, are in a
thriving state. Myres Castle is the principal mansion
in the parish, and was, for many years, the seat of the
Moncrieffs, who disposed of the estate a short time
ago : the building, to which a considerable addition
was made about the year 1830, is finely situated in
a park of about thirty acres. Bellevue and Southfield
are also pleasant residences. The ecclesiastical affairs
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of
Cupar and synod of Fife ; the minister's stipend is
£253. 11. 3., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £30
per annum ; patron, Mrs. Tyndal Bruce, of Falkland.
The church, a plain building erected in 17S5, was en-
larged by Mrs. Bruce, in 1S37, at a cost of £500, and
now contains 1100 sittings. There are places of wor-
ship for members of the Free Church, the United Seces-
sion, and the Relief Synod. The parochial school is
attended by a considerable number of children ; the
master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with a house and
garden, and the fees.
AUCHTERNUD, a village, in the parish of Fod-
derty, county of Ross and Cromarty; containing 115
inhabitants.
AUCHTERTOOL, a parish, in the district of Kirk-
caldy, county of Fife, 4 miles (W. by S.) from Kirk-
caldy ; containing, with the village of Newbigging, 530
inhabitants, of whom 239 are in the village of Auchter-
tool. This place is supposed to derive its name, signify-
ing, in the Gaelic language, " the high grounds on the
river Tiel," from its elevated situation with respect to
that stream. The parish is about three miles in length,
and one mile in average breadth, and comprises about
2500 acres, of which 1700 are arable, and the remainder
pasture, and waste land capable of being brought into
cultivation. The surface is varied, and, towards the west,
rises into a range of steep acclivities called the Cullalo
hills, the highest of which has an elevation of 750 feet
above the sea, commanding an extensive prospect over a
richly-cultivated tract of country; but the scenery within
the parish is almost destitute of beauty, from the want
of wood. The river Tiel has its source here ; and the
parish is also intersected by two streamlets which,
though very small, frequently, after continued rain, are
greatly increased, and, in their course through a narrow
channel, form beautiful cascades, of which one, near the
end of a deep and narrow dell, is truly picturesque.
Near the ancient mansion of Camilla, formerly the resi-
dence of the Countess of Moray, is an extensive loch,
bounded on the north side by a precipitous eminence,
covered with furze; and near it, are the ruins of the ancient
mansion of Hallyards, still retaining traces of baronial
grandeur, with some portion of the plantations of the
demesne, forming a romantic feature in the scenery of
the lake. This sheet of water is about eighteen acres in
extent, and abounds with perch, eels, and pike ; its
greatest depth is 22 feet.
The soil, in the southern parts, is a rich loam, vary-
ing from one foot to five feet in depth ; and, in the
north and western parts, clay, which, by draining and
good management, has been rendered nearly as fertile
as the loam ; and a moss, of which a large portion is of
great depth, and apparently incapable of being brought
into profitable cultivation. The chief crops are, wheat,
barley, oats, potatoes, and turnips ; the system of agri-
M
A ULD
A U LD
culture is in a very improved state, and draining has
lately been carried on with success. Considerable at-
tention has been paid to the rearing and feeding of
cattle, which are generally of the black Fifeshire breed,
with some few of the Teeswater, lately introduced ; there
are a few sheep, all of the Cheviot breed. The sub-
stratum is mostly whinstone, freestone, and limestone :
the whinstone is quarried, chiefly for mending the
roads, and occasionally for building ; the freestone is of
very inferior quality, and is seldom worked ; the lime-
stone, which is mainly found on the lands belonging to
Lord Moray and Captain Wemyss, is quarried only by
the tenants for their own immediate use. The village
of Auchtertool is neatly built ; the houses are princi-
pally of stone and lime, and those of more recent erec-
tion are covered with blue slate ; a parochial library
has been established, and a savings' bank. There was
formerly a brewery of porter, ale, and table-beer, in
the village, for the supply of the neighbourhood ; it
was long in very great repute, and a large quantity of
the ale was sent to Kirkcaldy, and thence shipped for
the London market. The parish is in the presbytery of
Kirkcaldy and synod of Fife, and in the patronage of
the Earl of Moray ; the minister's stipend is £157. 18. 10.,
with a manse in the later English style, and the glebe is
valued at £20 per annum. The church, which was sub-
stantially repaired in 1S33, is situated within a mile
of the village, and is adapted for a congregation of
about 300 persons. The parochial school affords a
liberal course of instruction ; the master has a salary of
£33. 6. 8., with £2S fees, and a good dwelling-house
and garden. At the west end of the loch of Camilla, is
a mineral spring.
AUCKINGILL, a township, in the parish of Canis-
bay, county of Caithness ; containing 209 inhabitants.
AULDEARN, a parish, in the county of Nairn, 2f
miles (E. S. E.) from Nairn ; containing 1466 inhabit-
ants, of whom 351 are in the village. This place is said
by some to have derived its name, in the Gaelic Alt-Em,
from a brook flowing through it into the river Nairn,
and of which the banks are thickly planted with alder-
trees ; it was originally the head of the deanery of Mo-
ra)', and of much greater extent till the year 1650,
when parts of it were annexed to the parishes of Nairn,
Cawdor, and Ardclach. In 1645, a sanguinary battle
took place near the village, between the forces under the
Marquess of Montrose, and a detachment of the army
of the Covenanters, commanded by Hurry, and consist-
ing of about 4000 men, when the former, after an ob-
stinate conflict, obtained a decisive victory. About 800
of the Covenanters fell, and a considerable number of
the forces of the marquess ; the slain on both sides
were interred after the battle, in a field to the south-
west of the village, and the spot, which has been since
planted, is surrounded with a moat. The tarish is
bounded on the north by the Moray Frith, here about
seven miles broad, along the coast of which it extends
for four miles ; and is, from north to south, 6| miles in
length, and about 5 miles in breadth, from east to west,
comprising 13,6S0 acres, of which 477S are arable, 5111
meadow and pasture, 3603 woodland and plantations,
and 198 under water. The surface for nearly three
miles from the shore, though varying in elevation, is
low ; it thence rises to a considerable height, for nearly
two miles, where it is intersected by the valley of the
Muckle brook, beyond which it attains a more abrupt
and precipitous elevation. About half a mile from the
shore, to the west, is an island of sand called the Bar,
which is formed at high water, and is constantly chang-
ing its position westward ; and opposite to it, are two
hills of sand, about 100 feet in height, which are con-
tinually changing their position towards the east, with-
out any apparent alteration in their form.
The soil, in the south-eastern part of the parish, is
luxuriantly rich ; in the south-western, of very infe-
rior quality ; and in the north-east and north-west, a
heavy cold loam. There are two lakes of considerable
extent, of which one, called Loch Lithy, covering an area
of 40 acres, produces abundance of rich marl, and the
other, Loch Loy, in the northern part of the parish,
is about a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile broad.
There is also a large tract of moss called the Moss of
Inshoch, in which vast quantities of roots, and some-
times entire fir-trees, are imbedded. The crops are,
grain of all kinds, potatoes, and turnips ; the system of
agriculture has been much improved ; waste land has
been drained, and brought into profitable cultivation,
and much of the inferior soil been rendered more fertile,
by the use of marl, lime, and bone-dust manure. The
cattle are of the Highland breed, and the sheep of the
white-faced kind. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £614S. The plantations are chiefly Scotch
fir, larch, oak, beech, elm, and ash, of which three last
there are some fine specimens at Boath and Lethen ;
and to the east of Inshoch, is a thriving plantation of
birch. The substratum is principally sandstone, some
of which is of excellent quality ; and from a quarry on
the lands of Brodie, was ra ed the st^ne for the erec-
tion of the towers of the suspension bridge over the
river Findhorn, near Forres. Near Boath, is found a
black stone, which, on the application of fire, emits a
flame ; and at Clune, on the lands of James C. Brodie,
Esq., are nodules of limestone, in which are fossils of
various kinds of fishes.
The prevailing scenery is of pleasing character, em-
bellished with plantations ; and the views obtained from
the higher grounds, are extensive and richly diversified,
commanding the wide expanse of the Frith, the rocky
coasts and lofty mountains of Ross, in combination
with those of Sutherland, and numerous other deeply
interesting features. Lethen, the seat of Mr. Brodie,
is a spacious and handsome mansion, finely situated in
the valley of the Muckle burn, and consisting of a centre
and two wings, erected about the commencement of the
last century ; the grounds are tastefully laid out, and
the house is embosomed in a plantation of venera-
ble beech-trees, and crowns the summit of a thickly-
wooded acclivity rising from the stream. Boath, the
seat of Sir Frederick William Dunbar, Bart., is an
elegant mansion of freestone, erected in 1830, and
beautifully situated in the valley of the Auldearn, near
the junction of the two branches of that stream. The
village is neatly built, and is inhabited chiefly by per-
sons engaged in agriculture. Fairs are held for cattle
and horses on the first Wednesday after the 19th of
June, and the first Tuesday after the Inverness fair at
Martinmas, for agricultural produce; the first of these
is called St. Colin's market, and the latter St. John's,
following which are two other fairs held, respectively,
a fortnight and a month after. The turnpike-road from
A V O C
A V O C
Elgin to Inverness passes, for four miles, through the
parish ; and further facility of communication is afforded
by good roads and bridges, in almost every direction.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Nairn and synod of Moray ;
the minister's stipend is £'241. 5. 4., with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £12 per annum ; patron, Mr. Brodie,
of Brodie. The church, built in 1/51, and improved in
1S16, is a neat structure, situated close to the village,
and contains 635 sittings. There are places of worship
for Free Church and United Secession congregations.
The parochial school affords instruction to about 130
scholars ; the master has a salary of £36. 7- 2., includ-
ing au allowance for a garden, and the fees average £10
per annum. On the higher grounds in the parish, are
some Druidical remains, of which the most perfect, near
the old castle of Moyness, consists of two concentric
circles, with a slightly-rocking stone weighing about
four tons ; and on a small eminence designated the
Black Hillock, has been found a kistvaen, containing a
human skeleton and several urns filled with ashes. On
a farm called Knock-na-Gillan, the Cummings, of Rait,
once seized thirteen of the clan of Mackintosh, who were
passing through the parish, and put twelve of them to
death ; and some time after, these hostile clans meeting
at the castle of Rait, in the parish of Nairn, the Mack-
intoshes, in retaliation, put the whole clan of the Cum-
mings to the sword, and burnt their castle. About a
mile to the north of the church, are the ruins of the
ancient castle of Inshoch, the seat of the Hays, of Loch
Loy ; and a mile to the east of it, were, till lately, the
remains of the house of Penick, the residence of the
deans of Moray.
AULDFIELD, lately a quoad sacra district, form-
ing part of the town of Pollockshaws, in the parish
of Eastwood, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew ;
containing 3252 inhabitants. — See Pollockshaws.
AUSKERRY ISLE, in the parish of Stronsay,
county of Orkney. It is situated about two miles to
the south of the island of Stronsay, and is small and
uninhabited, and appropriated to the pasturage of cattle :
there are some remains of a chapel, and the ruins of a
dwelling which bears the name of the Monk's House.
Kelp is manufactured in considerable quantity.
AVOCH, a parish, in the county of Ross and Cro-
marty, if mile (S. W. by W.) from Fortrose; contain-
ing 1931 inhabitants, of whom 936 are in the village.
This place apparently derives its name, signifying, in the
Gaelic language, " shallow water," from the small river
on which it is situated. The parish is bounded on the
south and south-east by the Moray Frith, and on the
south-west by the bay of Munlochy ; and is about four
miles and a quarter in length, and three miles in ex-
treme breadth, comprising 6198 acres, of which about
2500 are arable, 1500 woodland and plantations, and
the remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. The sur-
face, though generally level, with a gentle acclivity from
the shore of the Frith, contains a portion of the Mil-
buy hill, which has an elevation of nearly 500 feet ; and
is also intersected, in the lower parts, by several pro-
minent ridges. The river from which it takes its name,
rises within its limits, near a pool called the Littlemil-
stick, and, after a beautifully winding course, in which
it turns several mills, falls into the Frith near the vil-
lage. The coast extends for about three miles, and is
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bounded by a high ridge of rocks, projecting slightly in
two points, between which is a beach of sand and gravel.
The soil, which comprises almost every variety, has
been greatly improved, and the pastures are mostly rich;
the crops are, wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips,
with the usual grasses. Considerable attention has been,
for some time, paid to the rearing of live stock ; and
the farms have been newly divided, in portions adapted
to the ability and resources of the various tenants, by
which a much better system of management has been
introduced. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£3658. The substrata are generally of the red sand-
stone formation, interspersed with rocks of granite, and
there are indications of limestone, though none has yet
been wrought ; freestone quarries occur in several places,
from one of which, of a deep red colour, it is supposed
that the stone was taken for the erection of the cathe-
dral church of Chanonry. Rosehaugh, the seat of
Sir James J. R. Mackenzie, of Scat well, Bart., is au
elegant modern mansion, beautifully situated on an emi-
nence about half a mile from the sea, and embellished
with woods and thriving plantations. Avoch House, a
handsome mansion, embosomed in romantic scenery,
was destroyed in 1S33, by an accidental fire : Bay Cot-
tage is situated near, and derives its name from, the
bay of Munlochy.
The village is on the river Avoch, near its influx into
the Frith, which is here about four miles in breadth,
and, between the promontory of Fort-George on the
east, and the town of Inverness on the west, has the
appearance of a beautiful inland lake. The inhabitants
are chiefly employed in fisheries, in which nine boats,
having each a crew of ten men, are engaged in taking
haddock, whiting, cod, and other fish, on the coasts of
Sutherland and Caithness ; in the Frith are found, also,
oysters, flounders, and halibut. During the season,
commencing about the middle of July, the fishermen of
this place send thirty-five boats to the herring-fishery at
Caithness, from which they return with cargoes some-
times highly productive, of which, after supplying the
neighbourhood, the remainder is sent to Inverness
market. In the intervals of the fishing season, the
inhabitants are employed in making nets, not only for
their own use, but also for the fishing-stations in the
north and west Highlands. The harbour, which is
formed near the mouth of the river, affords good ancho-
rage and shelter for the boats, and a substantial pier
has been constructed, at which vessels of considerable
burthen land cargoes of coal from Newcastle ; it is also
safely accessible to trading vessels, which, from London,
Leith, Aberdeen, and Dundee, regularly touch at the
port. There are two salmon-fisheries, one at Rosehaugh,
and the other on the estate of Avoch ; and in Mun-
lochy bay, mussels are found in profusion. Facility of
communication is afforded by the turnpike-road from
Fort-George ferry to the western coast of Ross-shire,
which passes through the village and the southern part
of the parish, leading to Kessock ferry on the west, and
to the town of Dingwall on the north-west.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Chanonry and synod of
Ross ; the minister's stipend is £249. 9. 6., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £~ per annum ; patron,
Sir J. J. R. Mackenzie. The church, a neat plain struc-
ture, erected in 1670, and repaired in 1833, is situated
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close to the village, and contains 600 sittings. There is
a place of worship for Independents. The parochial
school is well conducted ; the master has a salary of
£30, with a house and garden, and the fees average
between £20 and £30 per annum. There are some
slight remains of the ancient castle of Avoch, consisting
chiefly of the site, on a rocky knoll on the northern pro-
montory of the bay of Munlochy, and distinguished hy
the rubbish of ruined walls which surrounded the sum-
mit of the hill. It was the residence of the lord of
Moray, who died in 1338 ; it subsequently passed to the
earls of Ross, on whose forfeiture it was annexed to the
crown, and was granted by James III. to his second
son, the Marquess ofOrmond, from which circumstance
the knoll was called Ormond's Mount. The lower story,
or dungeon, of the tower of Arkendeith, supposed to have
been built by the Bruces, of Kinloss, is also remaining.
Chambers, of Ormond, the Scottish historian, was born
in the parish ; and Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who dis-
covered the river in America which is called by his
name, resided for many years at Avoch House, and was
interred here.
AVONDALE, a parish, in the Middle ward of the
county of Lanark ; containing, with the market-town of
Strathaven, 61 SO inhabitants. The proper name of this
parish, which, from its including the market-town, has
been called sometimes Strathaven, and, by contraction,
Straveu, is Avondale, an appellation derived from its
situation on the river Avon, by which it is divided into
two nearly equal parts. The barony of Avondale was
anciently the property of the Baird family, and subse-
quently belonged to the Earl of Douglas, on whose
forfeiture, in 1455, it was granted, by James III., to
Andrew Stewart, whom he created Lord Avondale, and
who exchanged it for the barony of Ochiltree, with Sir
James Hamilton, in whose family it has ever since
remained. The place has derived some historical cele-
brity from the defeat of the troops under General
Claverhouse, at Drumclog, by a congregation of Cove-
nanters, who had assembled there for public worship, and,
anticipating an attack by the former, who were stationed
at Strathaven, had provided themselves with arms for
their defence. On the approach of Claverhouse, with
his dragoons, the armed part of the congregation went
forward to meet him, and, taking post on level ground,
having before them a rivulet, over which the general
had to pass, and of which the bank was, from its soft-
ness, impassable to the cavalry, defeated his forces with
considerable loss, the general himself escaping with
difficulty. In 1820, the place was disturbed by a few
rioters, under the command of James Wilson, who,
upon false intelligence that a rebellion against the
government had broken out in Glasgow, marched thither
to join the insurgents ; but they were instantly dis-
persed, and their leader, who was made prisoner, was
brought to the scaffold, and suffered the penalty of his
rebellion.
The parish comprises about 32,000 acres, of which
15,000 are arable, and the remainder, with the exception
of some tracts of moss and marsh land, formerly
more extensive, is in pasture. The surface is generally
level, rising gently from the hanks of the river towards
the south and west, and partially intersected with ridges
and small hills, of which the highest, towards the bor-
ders of Ayrshire, scarcely attain an elevation of more
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than 900 feet above the sea. Of these, the most pro-
minent are, Kype's rigg, and Hawkwood and Dungivel
hills, with the picturesque hut smaller eminences of
Floors hills and Kirkhill. The Avon, which rises on
the confines of Ayrshire, in its course through the
parish receives numerous tributary streams, of which
the chief are, the Cadder and Pomilion on the north,
and the Givel, the Lochan, and the Kype, on the south ;
the waters of the Kype, about a mile to the south of
the town, are precipitated from a height of nearly fifty
feet, forming an interesting fall, and in all these streams
trout is abundant. Salmon were formerly found in
the Avon, even at its source ; but latterly, their pro-
gress upward has been intercepted. The scenery of
the parish, though destitute of ornamental wood, is
pleasingly varied, and, in many parts, picturesque.
The soil is generally fertile ; the chief crops are,
oats and barley, with some wheat ; potatoes are also
raised in great quantities, and are sold for seed ; but,
though the soil is extremely favourable for turnips, they
are not much cultivated. There are numerous dairy-
farms, and the pastures throughout the parish are luxu-
riant ; great numbers of cows, principally of the Ayrshire
breed, are pastured here, and there are, at present,
not less than 2000 acres of undivided common. Many
improvements have been made in draining; and the
whole of Strathaven moss, comprising above 200 acres
of unprof, table land, has been reclaimed, affording more
valuable crops than any other portion of the parish.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £24,785.
Whinstone abounds, as does also ironstone ; and lime-
stone is found in several parts, and burnt for manure ;
coal is also found in the neighbourhood of the lime-
kilns, in considerable quantity, and of a quality sufficient
for burning the lime, but not adapted to household
use. The moors abound with grouse and other game,
and the Duke of Hamilton has an extensive tract of
pasture land for sheep, which is kept for grouse
shooting ; partridges are also numerous in the lower
lands, and plovers and wild ducks are every where
abundant. The parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage
of the Duke of Hamilton ; the minister's stipend is
£305. 2. 6., with a manse, and the glebe is valued at
£24 per annum. There is also an assistant minister,
appointed by his grace, to whom a stipend of 500 marks
is paid, according to the will of a late duchess ; he
visits the sick, and catechises the parishioners. The
church, erected in 1772> >s a plain edifice, with an un-
finished spire, and much too small for the population,
being adapted for a congregation only of S00 persons.
Under the auspices of the present minister, an additional
church has been erected, at an expense of £1400, for
900 persons, to which a district called East Strathaven
has been assigned, and which is supplied by a minister
appointed by the congregation. There is a place of wor-
ship for members of the Associate Seceding Synod, and
there are two for members of the Relief Church. The
parochial school affords an efficient education ; the
master's salary is £34. 4. 4., with £36 from the fees,
and a good house and garden. There is also a parochial
school for East Strathaven. Some remains of a Roman
road may be traced on the south side of the river
Avon, passing by the farm of Walesley ; and on the
lands of Gennerhill, small coins and Roman sandals
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Seal and Arms.
have been discovered. Roman coins have also been
recently found on the lands of Torfoot, near Loudoun
hill, supposed to have been the line of the Romans, in
their route through the Caledonian forest, towards the
western coast.
AYR, a sea-port, burgh,
and market-town, in the dis-
trict of Kyle, county of
Ayr, of which it is thecapital,
77 miles (S. W. by W.) from
Edinburgh, and 34 (S. S. W.)
from Glasgow ; containing
8264 inhabitants. This place
derives its name from the
river on which it is situated,
and appears to have attained
a considerable degree of note,
at a very early period. A
castle was erected here by William the Lion, to which
reference is made in the charter subsequently granted to
the town by that monarch ; and from the importance of
its situation, it was besieged and taken by Edward I,.
during his invasion of Scotland. In 12S9, Robert Bruce,
on the hostile approach of an English army towards the
town, finding himself unable to withstand their progress,
set fire to the castle, to prevent its falling into their hands;
and at present, there are no vestiges of it remaining.
During the usurpation of Cromwell, a very spacious and
strongly-fortified citadel was erected here, as a military
station for his troops, for the maintenance and security
of the town and harbour of Ayr, which, at that time,
were of great importance, as enabling him to hold the
western and southern parts of the county in subjec-
tion ; and of this fort, the greater part is still in good
preservation.
The town is finely situated on a wide level plain, on
the sea-coast, and at the head of the beautiful bay of
Ayr, by which it is bounded on the west. The more
ancient part consists of houses irregularly built, and of
antique appearance ; but that which is of more modern
origin, contains numerous handsome ranges of buildings,
among which may be noticed Wellington-square, and
a spacious and well-built street leading from it to the
new bridge. Very great improvements have been made
in the aspect of the town, which is seen to great ad-
vantage from the higher grounds, and more especially
on the approach from the south ; many agreeable villas
have been erected, and most of the modern houses in
the vicinity are embellished with shrubs and trees. The
principal streets are well paved, and lighted with gas,
and the inhabitants are amply supplied with water,
partly from numerous wells opened in convenient situ-
ations, and partly from a softer spring, in Carrick, by
pipes laid down for that purpose. The environs are
extremely pleasing, abounding with richly- diversified
scenery, embracing fine views of the sea, and many in-
teresting features ; and there are two bridges over the
river Ayr, of which that last erected is a very hand-
some structure, affording communication with the
towns of Newton-upon-Ayr and Wallace-town, which
are both of comparatively recent origin. The beach,
which is a fine level sand, is much frequented as a
promenade, and contributes greatly to render the town
desirable as a place of residence. There are two libra-
ries supported by subscription, containing good collec-
85
tions of standard and periodical works, and newsrooms
well supplied with journals ; and a mechanics' institution
was established in 1825, to which is attached a library
of more than 3000 volumes, for the increase of which
a specific sum is annually appropriated. Races are
annually held by the Western Meeting, in the first week
in September, on an excellent course in the immediate
vicinity of the town, comprising about fifty acres, in-
closed with a stone wall ; and the members of the
Caledonian Hunt hold a meeting here once in five
years. Two packs of fox-hounds, and a pack of har-
riers, are kept in the neighbourhood ; and assemblies
are held in an elegant and spacious suite of rooms,
admirably adapted for that purpose, in the new Buildings,
a stately edifice recently erected, and embellished with
a spire rising to the height of 226 feet ; they contain, in
addition to the assembly-rooms, two large newsrooms,
rooms for town's meetings, and various apartments for
public purposes. In the High-street, is a handsome
structure in the early English style, lately erected on
the site of an ancient building called Wallace's Tower ;
it is 115 feet in height, and is adorned, in the front,
with a well-sculptured statue of Wallace ; it contains
a good clock, and forms a conspicuous object in the
distant view of the town.
On the summit of the bank of the river Doon, is a
stately monument to the honour of the poet Burns,
erected at an expense of £2000, raised by subscription,
and consisting of a circular building, rising from a tri-
angular basement fifteen feet in height, to an elevation
of more than sixty feet. It is surrounded by nine
Corinthian pillars with an enriched cornice, supporting
a cupola, which is surmounted by a gilt tripod resting
upon dolphins ; and a window of stained glass gives
light to a circular apartment eighteen feet in diameter,
in which are, a portrait of the poet, an elegant edition of
his works, and various paintings, illustrative of the
principal scenes and descriptions in his poems. Oppo-
site to the entrance, is a semicircular recess decorated
with columns of the Doric order, intended for the re-
ception of his statue ; and in the grounds, comprising
an area of about two acres, disposed in gravel-walks and
shrubberies, and embellished with plantations of every
variety of forest trees, are placed the well-known statues
of Tarn O'Shanter and Souter Johnny, executed by
Thorn, and exhibited, previously to their being deposited
here, in almost every town of Great Britain. The Ayr-
shire Horticultural and Agricultural Society was established
in 1815, under the auspices and patronage of the late
Lord Eglinton, for the distribution of prizes for the best
specimens of flowers, fruit, and vegetables, and for
improvements in husbandry and agricultural imple-
ments ; exhibitions are annually held, and attached to
the institution is a library. A Medical Association has
also been founded by members of that profession resi-
dent in the town and neighbourhood, the library of
which contains a selection of the most valuable works
on medical literature. The Barracks, an extensive range
of building near the harbour, and pleasantly situated
on a fine level plain, are adapted for the reception of a
regiment of infantry, and, during the late war, were
fully occupied by the military stationed here ; but, since
the peace, they have been unoccupied, and it was at one
time in contemplation to appropriate them to some
other purpose.
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Notwithstanding the very advantageous situation of
the town, in the midst of a richly-cultivated district
abounding in mineral wealth, and commanding exten-
sive means of communication, and facilities of convey-
ance, both by sea and land, the town has never been
much distinguished for its manufactures : the prin-
cipal manufacture carried on here, is that of shoes,
which has, for some years, very much diminished,
affording employment, at present, to little more than
200 persons. The working of muslins, in varieties of
patterns, for the Glasgow manufacturers, is carried on
to a considerable extent, occupying about 300 persons,
at their own dwellings. "Weaving with the hand-loom,
for manufacturers of distant towns, employs about 150
persons; and tanning and currying of leather is carried
on, but on a limited scale. A spacious factory for the
spinning of wool and the manufacture of carpets, has
been recently established by Mr. Templeton, which ori-
ginated in a small establishment for the spinning of
cotton-yarn ; since its application to the present use,
the building has been enlarged, and supplied with the
most improved machinery of every kind, and the con-
cern, at present, affords employment to 200 persons.
A mill for carding, spinning, and weaving wool, for
plaids and blankets, has been also erected on the bank
of the river Doon ; the machinery is impelled by water,
and about thirty persons are regularly employed in the
works. The foreign trade of the port consists almost
entirely of the exportation of coal, and the importation
of hemp, mats, tallow, tar, iron, pitch, timber, and other
commodities ; the number of vessels engaged in this
trade, is about eighteen. About 300 vessels are em-
ployed in the coasting trade, which is carried on to a
very considerable extent ; the imports are, corn, gro-
ceries, hardware, iron, lead, haberdasheries, and other
wares, and the exports are, coal, corn, wool, and agri-
cultural produce. In a recent year, 739 vessels, of
62,730 tons aggregate burthen, cleared out from the
port, exclusively of steam-boats. 3136 quarters of
wheat, 306 cwt. of flour, 11,145 quarters of oats, 5623
cwt. of meal, 318 quarters of barley, 643 quarters of
beans, and 51 quarters of peas, were brought into the
port in the year ; and 60,000 tons of coal, 5571 quar-
ters of wheat, 5586 cwt. of flour, 87 quarters of oats,
3178 cwt. of oatmeal, 84 quarters of barley, and 183
quarters of beans, were shipped coastwise. The port
appears to have been distinguished at an early period,
and ships are said to have been built here by several of
the kings of Scotland ; the harbour is capacious, and
affords good accommodation for vessels, but the entrance
is somewhat obstructed by a bar thrown up by the accu-
mulation of alluvial deposit, for the removal of which
considerable sums have been expended, with great effect.
A wall was raised, nearly twenty feet in height, taper-
ing from a base of nearly thirty feet in breadth, to
about eight feet on the summit, and extending nearly
300 yards into the sea, on the south side ; and a similar
pier, on the north side, parallel to the former, was
likewise erected, at a very great expense. By these
means, the harbour has been considerably improved ;
and to render it still more complete, a breakwater
has been partly erected at the mouth of the harbour,
stretching still further into the sea, and which it is esti-
mated will be completed at an expense of about £4000.
The depth of water is from 14 to 16 feet, at ordinary
86
spring tides ; and, within the bar, about eighty sail of
ships may lie in perfect safety.
The rivers Ayr and Doon abound with excellent sal-
mon, and considerable quantities are taken, during the
season, with drags, and afterwards with stake-nets, and,
besides affording an abundant supply for the town and
neighbourhood, are sent to the Glasgow, Edinburgh, and
London markets ; the fishery in the Doon is let for
£235, and the other for £45, per annum. The fishe-
ries off the coast are perhaps less extensive than for-
merly, but more than twenty boats, each managed by
four men, are employed in taking cod, ling, haddock,
whiting, turbot, skate, flounders, mackerel, and her-
rings, which last are taken only during the summer
months ; soles, red gurnet, and large conger eels are
found occasionally. The post-office has several delive-
ries daily, and the utmost facility of intercourse is
maintained with the neighbouring towns, and with
England and Ireland. The roads are kept in excellent
order ; and the trade of the place has been much im-
proved by the recent formation of a railroad to Glasgow,
noticed in the article on that place, and for which an
appropriate station has been erected on the north bank
of the river, near the new bridge, having a frontage of
eighty-four feet, with every accommodation for goods
and passengers. The market-days are Tuesday and
Friday; the markets are amply supplied with grain and
provisions of every kind, and four annual fairs are held
for cattle, horses, sheep, and agricultural produce.
The charter of incorporation was first granted in
the year 1202, by William the Lion, who conferred upon
the burgesses the whole of the lands of the parish, with
many valuable privileges. This charter was confirmed
by Alexander II., who added the adjoining parish of
Alloway, and extended the jurisdiction of the magistrates
over the two parishes ; and Robert Bruce, by a subse-
quent charter, dated at Dunfermline, ratified all the
grants of his predecessors, and erected Alloway into a
barony, of which the corporation were the lords. Under
these charters, the government of the burgh is vested in
a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and
twelve councillors, of which last number ten were for-
merly of the. merchants' guild, and two of the trades' ;
the provost, bailies, and dean of guild are, ex officio,
justices of the peace of the county. The burgh magis-
trates, were, until lately, elected from the guild brethren,
who formed the council, by whom all the officers of the
corporation were also appointed ; but the magistrates
and councillors are now chosen agreeably with the pro-
visions of the Municipal Reform act, by the voters
within the limits of the parliamentary burgh. The in-
corporated trade guilds were nine in number, and were
styled the squaremen, hammermen, tailors, skinners,
coopers, weavers, shoemakers, dyers, and butchers. The
magistrates have jurisdiction in civil and criminal cases,
but confine the latter to petty misdemeanours. They
hold courts weekly, for civil and criminal causes, but the
more important cases are referred to the sheriff's court,
held every Tuesday, from May to July, and from Octo-
ber to April ; the number of these causes averages 500
in the year, of which very few are removed into the
court of session, or supreme court. A sheriff court for
the recovery of debts not exceeding £8. 6. 8., is held
every Thursday, and a petty court every Monday,
confined chiefly to breaches of the peace ; a dean of
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guild court is also liolden occasionally. These courts are
held in the County Hall, on the north-west side of Wel-
lington-square, a spacious and elegant building, after the
model of the Temple of Isis at Rome, erected within
the last thirty years, at an expense of more than
£30,000. The front is embellished with a portico of
massive circular columns, affording an entrance into a
lobby, lighted by an ample and stately dome rising to a
considerable height above the building, which consists
of two stories. The interior, which is highly decorated,
consists of the various courts for the burgh and the
county, with requisite offices for persons connected with
the proceedings, arranged on the ground floor ; and the
upper story, to which is an ascent by a noble circular
staircase, contains two spacious halls, with rooms for
the judges and barristers, and retiring-rooms for the
juries and witnesses. Of these halls, one is appropriated
to the busiuess of the courts, and the other chiefly used
as a banqueting or assembly room ; the latter is splen-
didly fitted up, and is embellished with a portrait of
Lord Eglinton, as colonel of the Royal Highland regi-
ment, and of Mr. Hamilton, late convener of the county.
The prisons for the burgh and county are spacious and
well ventilated, and the arrangement is adapted for the
classification of the prisoners, who are regularly em-
ployed in various trades, and receive a portion of {heir
earnings on their leaving the prison. Ayr is the head
of a district comprising the burghs of Irvine, Campbell-
town, Inverary, and Oban, which are associated with it
in returning a member to the imperial parliament; the
right of election, previously vested in the corporation,
is now, by the act of the 3rd and 4th of William IV.,
extended to the £10 householders; the sheriff is the
returning officer, and the present number of voters in
the burgh of Ayr is about 470.
The parish, including Alloway, forms part of an ex-
tensive and richly-cultivated valley, and comprises about
5000 acres ; it is bounded on the north by the river
A3T, which separates it from the parish of St. Quivox ;
on the south-west, by the river Doon, and on the west,
by the sea. The surface, towards the sea, is generally
flat for about two miles, beyond which it rises by a gen-
tle ascent to a considerable elevation, forming a range
of hills which inclose the vale, and terminate, towards
the south-west, in the loftier chain of Brown Carrick,
which projects into the sea in some precipitous rocky
headlands called the Heads of Ayr. The river Ayr,
which has its rise in the eastern extremity of the county,
divides the valley in which the'parish is situated into
two nearly equal parts, and flows between banks richly
embellished with plantations and pleasing villas ; it is
subject to violent floods, and, in its course to the sea,
conveys great quantities of alluvial soil, which, accumu-
lating at its mouth, slightly obstruct the entrance of the
harbour. The river Doon has its source in a lake of
that name, to the south-east, on the confines of the
stewartry of Kirkcudbright, and, in its progress, dis-
plays many strikingly romantic features. A small
stream called Glengaw Burn, flows between the ancient
parishes of Ayr and Alloway ; and numerous springs
are every where found, at a small depth from the sur-
face, affording an abundant supply of water, but not
well adapted for domestic use, containing carbonate
and sulphate of lime, with some traces of iron in combi-
nation. Close to the eastern boundary of the parish, is
87
Loch Fergus, about a mile in circumference, and abound-
ing with pike ; near the margin, were formerly the ruins
of an ancient building of a castellated form, which have
been long since removed, to furnish materials for the
erection of farm-buildings, and in the centre of the lake
is a small island, the resort of wild ducks and other
aquatic fowl.
The scenery is interspersed with numerous pleasing
villas and stately residences, among which are, Castle-
hill, commanding a fine view of the town and bay ;
Belmont Cottage, embosomed in trees ; Doonholme, with
its richly-planted demesne, extending along the banks
of the river ; Rozelle, a stately mansion, surrounded
with trees of venerable growth ; Belle-isle, an elegant
castellated mansion with turrets, rising above the trees
by which it is surrounded ; and Mount Charles, with
its flourishing plantations crowning the precipitous bank
of the river Doon. The beautiful bay of Ayr is un-
rivalled for striking scenery ; to the north, are the
islands of Cumbraes, the Bute hills, and the Argyllshire
mountains, with the summit of Ben-Lomond in the dis-
tance ; to the west, is seen the coast of Ireland, and,
near the Ayrshire coast, the Craig of Ailsa, rising pre-
cipitously from a base of two miles in circumference, to
a height of 1000 feet above the level of the sea by which
it is surrounded. The island of Arran, with its lofty
mountains, behind which is seen the Mull of Cantyre,
also forms a conspicuous and interesting feature in the
view. The soil varies in different parts of the parish ;
but, from the progressive improvements in agriculture,
and the extensive practice of tile-draining, the lands
have been rendered generally fertile, and a considerable
quantity of unprofitable land has been made productive.
The greater portion is under tillage, and produces abun-
dant crops of grain of all kinds, with turnips and other
green crops. Considerable attention is paid to the
rearing of live stock ; the sheep are chiefly of the Lei-
cestershire and Cheviot breeds, and the cattle, with the
exception of a few of the short-horned kind, are of the
genuine Ayrshire breed, which has been brought to
great perfection. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £24,664. The substratum is mostly trap and
whinstone, of which the rocks principally consist ; coal
is prevalent, but the working of it has not been found
profitable in this parish, though it has been extensively
wrought in the parishes adjoining. Red sandstone and
freestone also exist, and the latter was formerly quar-
ried ; some beautiful specimens of agate are found upon
the shore; and in the bed of the river, occurs a peculiar
species of claystone, with small grains of dark felspar
and mica, which is frequently used for polishing marble
and metals, and as a hone, for giving a fine edge to cut-
ting tools.
The parishes of Ayr and Alloway were united towards
the close of the 17th century. The church of Ayr,
which had been made collegiate in the reign of Mary,
afforded sufficient accommodation for the whole popula-
tion ; and divine service, which, for some time after
their union, was performed in the church of Alloway,
every third Sunday, was finally restricted to the church
of Ayr. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the super-
intendence of the presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr. The stipend of the incumbent of the
first charge is £17S. 5., including half the interest of a
sum of £1000, bequeathed for the equal benefit of both
AYR
AYRS
ministers, with a manse, a comfortable modern resi-
dence ; the second minister has a stipend of £283. 6. 9-,
including £20 interest money above stated, £82. 15. 8.
received from the public exchequer, and £108. 6. 8. paid
from the funds of the burgh, with an allowance for
manse. The old church was erected about the middle
of the 1/th century, to supply the place of the church
of St. John, which had been desecrated by Cromwell, and
converted into an armoury for the fort that he erected
around its site ; it is a substantial edifice, but greatly
inferior to the original church in elegance of design.
The new church was erected in 1810, at an expense of
nearly £6000, and is a handsome edifice ; the two
churches together are capable of accommodating from
2000 to 2500 persons. There are places of worship for
members of the Free Church and the Relief Synod, Wes-
leyans, the United Secession, Reformed Congregation,
Episcopalians, and Moravians. The parochial schools of
the burgh, by a charter in 1798, were incorporated into
an institution called the Academy, and a handsome and
capacious building was erected, with funds raised by
contributions from the heritors, and subscriptions. It is
conducted under the superintendence of a committee,
by a rector who has a salary of £100 per annum, and three
assistant masters with salaries of about £20 each ; the
course of instruction is comprehensive, and the number
of pupils averages about 500. A school in which about
200 children are taught, is supported by the produce of
a bequest of £2000 by Captain Smith, under the direc-
tion of the parochial ministers and magistrates of the
town.
The hospital for the poor, or Poor's House, was
erected in 1759, at the expense of the corporation, aided
by subscription, for the reception of the infirm and
helpless poor ; it is conducted by a master and a mis-
tress with a salary of £80. A dispensary was established
in 1817, which afforded medicinal assistance to more
than 500 patients annually, and a fever hospital, re-
cently built, has been united to it ; the subscriptions
amount to about £300 per annum. A savings' bank
was established in 1815; the present amount of de-
posits is about £3000, and the number of contributors
700; the gross amount of deposits, since its commence-
ment, exceeds £30,000. Numerous charitable benefac-
tions have been made, of which the principal are, a
bequest of Mr. Patterson, of Ayr, to the Glasgow In-
firmary, of £500, in consideration of which the parish
is privileged to send four patients to that institution ;
an annual income of £55, derived from a bequest of
Mr. Smith, a native of this town, and alderman of Lon-
donderry, in Ireland, distributed among poor persons
on a certain day ; a bequest of £300 by Mr. James
Dick, of which the interest is similarly distributed
among the poor; the farm of Sessionfield, consisting of
100 acres, bequeathed by Sir Robert Blackwood, of
Edinburgh, a native of this parish, and the produce of
which is distributed among poor householders ; a be-
quest of £1000 by Mrs. Crawford, for reduced females;
a bequest of £300 by Captain Tennant, to the Poor-
house ; a bequest of £5 annually to ten females, by
Miss Ballantine, of Castle-hill ; and a bequest of £1000
to the poor of the parish, by Mr. Ferguson, of Doon-
holme.
There are remains of the church of St. John, within
the area of Cromwell's fort, consisting solely of the
88
tower ; and also of the old church of Alloway, of which
the walls are entire. The moat of Alloway may be
traced, on the approach to Doonholme House ; on its
summit, according to ancient records, courts of justice
were held, for the trial of petty offences. There are
evident traces of the old Roman road leading from
Galloway into the county of Ayr, and passing within
half a mile of the town ; and other portions of it are
still in tolerable preservation. A tract on the coast
called the Battle Fields, is supposed to have been the scene
of a fierce conflict between the natives and the Romans.
Both Roman and British implements of war, urns of
baked clay, and numerous other relics of Roman anti-
quity, have been found at this place; and coins of
Charles II. were discovered under the foundation of the
old market-cross, a handsome structure of hexagonal
form, removed in 17S8. Johannes Scotus, who flourished
in the ninth century, eminent for his proficiency in Greek
and oriental literature, and who was employed by Alfred
the Great, to restore learning at Oxford ; and Andrew
Michael Ramsay, better known as the Chevalier Ramsay,
the friend of Fenelon, Bishop of Cambray, were natives
of Ayr. John Loudon McAdam, celebrated for his im-
provements in the construction of roads, and David
Cathcart, Lord Alloway, one of the lords of the high court
of justiciary, were also natives ; and John Mair, author
of a system of book-keeping, and Dr. Thomas Jackson,
professor of natural philosophy in the university of St.
Andrew's, and author of several valuable works, were
teachers in schools here. But the most celebrated name
connected with the place, is that of Burns, whose monu-
ment has been already noticed, and who was born at Allo-
way, in the parish, in a cottage which is still remaining.
It may here be observed, that on the 6th of August,
1S44, the town of Ayr was the scene of great rejoicings,
occasioned by a national festival being held in the neigh-
bourhood, on that day, in honour of the memory of
Burns, and to greet the three sons and the sister of the
bard. At an early hour of the morning, visiters from
all parts of Scotland had arrived, to join in, or be spec-
tators of, the proceedings ; and a grand procession was
shortly formed, which passed from the town, along a
road thronged with people, to the more immediate scene
of the events of the day, the banks of the Doon. Here,
in the vicinity of the poet's birth-place, beside the old
kirk of Alloway which his muse has immortalized, and
beneath the monument raised by his admiring country-
men, the procession closed ; and not long after, a ban-
quet was partaken of by above 2000 persons, including
many of distinguished talent, in a pavilion about 120
feet square, that had been specially erected in a field ad-
joining the monument. Numerous appropriate speeches,
some of considerable eloquence, were made upon the
occasion ; that of Professor Wilson was particularly re-
markable, and the whole of the proceedings were cha-
racterized by the utmost enthusiasm, and by an univer-
sal desire to merge every individual feeling, that the
day might be truly consecrated to its own peculiar
object.
AYRSHIRE, an extensive county, on the western
coast of Scotland, bounded on the north by Renfrew-
shire, on the east by the counties of Lanark and Dum-
fries, on the south by the stewartry of Kirkcudbright
and Wigtonshire, and on the west by the Frith of Clyde
and the Irish Channel. It lies between 54° 40' and 55°
A Y 11 S
A Y T O
52' (N. lat.), and 4° and 5° (W. long.), and is about
sixty miles in length, and nearly thirty in extreme
breadth, comprising an area of about 1600 square miles,
or 1,024,000 acres, and containing 31,497 houses, of
which 30,125 are inhabited; and a population of
164,356, of whom 78,983 are males, and 85,373 females.
This county, which includes the three districts of Car-
rick, Kyle, and Cunninghame, was originally inhabited
by the Damnii, with whom, after the departure of the
Romans, were mingled a colony of Scots, who emigrated
from Ireland, and settled in the peninsula of Cantyre,
in the county of Argyll. In the Sth century, the Saxon
kings of Northumbria obtained possession of this part
of the country ; and in the reign of David I., Hugh de
Morville, who had emigrated from England, and was
made by that monarch constable of Scotland, received
a grant of the whole district of Cunninghame, in which
he placed many of his English vassals. Previously to
their final defeat at the battle of Largs, in 1263, the
county was frequently invaded by the Danes ; and
during the wars with Edward of England, it was the
scene of many of the exploits of William Wallace, in
favour of Robert Bruce, who was a native of the county,
and obtained, by marriage, the earldom of Carrick,
which, on his accession to the throne, merged into the
property of the crown. The change in the principles of
religion which led to the Reformation, appears to have
first developed itself in this county ; and Kyle is
noticed by the reformer, Knox, as having, at a very
early period, embraced the reformed doctrine.
Previously to the Reformation, the county was in-
cluded within the arch-diocese of Glasgow ; it is now
almost entirely in the synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and
comprises several presbyteries, and forty-six parishes.
It contains the royal burghs of Ayr, which is the county
town, and Irvine ; the towns of Largs, Beith, Ardros-
san, Saltcoats, Kilwinning, Kilmarnock, Mauchline,
Catrine, Old and New Cumnock, Muirkirk, Maybole,
and Girvan ; and numerous large and populous villages.
Under the act of the 2nd of William IV., the county
returns one member to the imperial parliament. The
surface is varied : in the district of Cunninghame,
which includes the northern portion, it is comparatively
level ; in Kyle, which occupies the central portion, it is
hilly and uneven, though containing some large tracts
of fertile and well cultivated land; and the district of
Carrick, in the south, is wild and mountainous. The
principal mountains are, Knockdollian, which has an
elevation of 2000 feet above the sea ; Cairntable, rising
to the height of 1650 feet; Knockdow and Carleton,
each 1554 feet high; and Knocknounan, 1540 feet.
The chief rivers are, the Ayr, the Doon, the Garnock,
the Girvan, and the Stiuchar ; and the county is inter-
sected by numerous smaller streams, of which the
principal are, the Rye water, the Irvine, and the Kil-
marnock water. There are also numerous small lakes,
especially in the district of Carrick ; but the only one
of any extent, is Loch Doon, from which issues the river
of that name. The coast, especially that of Carrick,
is precipitous, rocky, and dangerous, and possesses few
good harbours ; towards the extremities, it is almost
inaccessible, from rocks in the offing, and towards the
centre, the beach is sandy, and the water so shallow as
generally to preclude the approach of vessels of any
considerable burthen.
Vol. I.— 89
About one-third of the land is arable, and in culti-
vation, and the remainder, of which a very large portion
is mountain waste, is chiefly meadow and pasture. The
soil is, in some parts, light and sandy, and in others a
rich clay, and nearly the whole of the district of Cun-
ninghame is a rich and fruitful vale. The dairies are
well managed, and their produce is in high repute ; the
county is also distinguished for its excellent breed of
cattle : the moors abound with all kinds of game, and
the rivers with salmon and trout. The rateable annual
value of the county is £520,828. The minerals are,
coal, ironstone, lead and copper ore, black-lead, and
gypsum ; the coal is abundant, and the working of it,
for exportation, is daily increasing, for which purpose
railroads have been laid down, and harbours have been
constructed ; there are also extensive quarries of free-
stone and marble. The ancient forests of Ayrshire
have long since disappeared; and the plantations, which
are extensive, are mostly of modern growth. The seats
are, Kelburn House, Eglinton Castle, Culzean Castle,
Loudon Castle, Fairley Castle, Dalquharran, Blairquhan,
Bargeny, Fullerton House, Dumfries House, Stair House,
Auchincruive, Auchinleck, and many others. The chief
manufactures are the various branches of the woollen,
the linen, cotton, and thread manufactures, for which
there are extensive works at Kilmarnock and Catrine ;
the weaving of muslin is also general throughout the
county, and the Ayrshire needlework has long been
distinguished for elegance. There are likewise tanneries
and potteries, iron-foundries, and some very large iron-
works, of which those at Muirkirk are among the most
celebrated in the country ; along the coast are valuable
fisheries, and salt-works, and others for kelp and soda.
Facility of communication is maintained by excellent
roads, and bridges kept in good repair; also by the
railway from Ayr to Glasgow, with its different branches.
There are numerous remains of antiquity, consisting of
the ruins of fortresses and religious houses, in various
parts of the county, all of which are described in the
articles on the several parishes where they are situated.
AYTON, a post-town and parish, in the county of
Berwick, 7^ miles (N. W. by N.) from Berwick-on-
Tweed, and 47| (E. by S.) from the city of Edinburgh ;
containing about 1700 inhabitants. This place, which
takes its name from the water of Eye, on the banks of
which it is situated, is intimately connected with impor-
tant transactions of early times. It was formerly
dependent on the monastery of Coldingham, as appears
from charters belonging to that establishment, upon
the settlement of which, between the years 109S and
1 107, under the auspices of King Edgar, that monarch
made them several grants, including "Eytun" and
" aliam Eytun," the latter being Nether Ayton, on the
opposite side of the river. Ayton then belonged to the
parish of Coldingham ; and it is considered that its
church was founded about that time, as a chapel for
the neighbouring priory, to which use it was appro-
priated till the Reformation, when this district was dis-
joined from Coldingham, and united to Lamberton on
the south-east, a short time after which, it was erected
into a parish of itself. The Castle of Ayton, a place of
great importance in turbulent times, but long since
demolished, is supposed to have been founded by a
Norman called De Vescie, whose family afterwards
changed their name to that of De Eitun, and of whom
N
A Y T O
A Y T O
the Aytons, of Inchdarney, in Fife, are said to be the
lineal descendants ; this castle was subjected to a siege
by Surrey, the famous general of Henry VII., in 1497,
and it appears that the village of Ayton sprang up in
its vicinity, for the sake of the protection which it
afforded. A truce was signed in the church, between
the hostile kingdoms, in 1384; and another in 1497,
for seven years, after the capture of the castle in July
in the same year. The estate of Prenderguest, a dis-
tinct and very ancient portion of the parish, in the
reign of David I., partly belonged to Swain, priest of
Fishwick, on the banks of the Tweed, who afterwards
renounced his claim to it in favour of the Coldingham
monks.
The parish, bounded on the east by the sea, is about
four miles in length, and the same in breadth, and
contains about 7050 acres, of which 6000 are arable,
250 pasture, and 800 plantation. The surface is most
elevated in the southern part, which consists of a sloping
range of high land, adorned with beautiful copses, and
reaching, at its highest elevation, to about 660 feet
above the level of the sea; the ground on the northern
side is lower, but has some very fine lofty undulations.
The sea-coast extends between two and three miles,
and is abrupt and steep, one point, known by the name
of Blaiky's, rising to a height of 350 feet; there are
one or two caves on the shore, accessible only by sea,
and which, it is supposed, were formerly used for
smuggling, but are now the resort of marine fowls and
shellfish. At the south-eastern point of the boundary,
is a rocky bay, approached, from land, by a deep ravine,
at the foot of which stand the little fishing village of
Burnmouth, and a singular rock called the Maiden
Stone, insulated at high water, and which has been
separated from the precipice above by the undermining
of the sea. At the north-eastern point of the parish,
are two or three islets, called the Harker rocks, over
which the sea continually rolls, and when driven by
strong east winds, exhibits a lofty and extensive field
of sweeping foam. The chief rivers are the Eye and
the Ale, the former of which rises in the Larnmermoor
hills, and after flowing for nearly twelve miles, enters
the parish, by a right-angled flexure, on its western
side, and at length falls into the sea. The scenery of
the valley through which it flows, if viewed from Mil-
lerton hill, the old western approach to Ayton, is of
singular interest and beauty : the nearer prospect con-
sists of the village, manse, and church, Ayton House, with
its beautiful plantations, and the new and commanding
house and grounds of Peelwalls ; numerous mansions
and farm-houses rise, in various parts, on the right,
skirted by a range of hill country, and the expansive
and rolling sea closes the prospect on the north-east.
The Ale rises in Coldingham parish, and, after running
two or' three miles, forms the north-eastern boundary
of this parish, separating it from Coldingham and
Eyemouth, for about two miles, when it falls into the
Eye at a romantic elevation called the Kip-rock.
The soil, in general, is good, consisting, in the
southern part, of a fertile loam, and in the northern
exhibiting a light earth, with a considerable admixture
of gravel in many places ; the finest crops, both white
and green, are produced, the land being in a high state
of cultivation, and every improvement in agriculture
has been introduced, among which the most prominent
90
are, a complete system of draining, and the plentiful
use of bone-dust, as turnip manure. The rateable an-
nual value of the parish is £12,970. The prevailing
rock in the district is the greywacke and greywacke
slate, of which formation large supplies of sandstone of
good quality are quarried for building. Considerable
deposits of coarse alabaster, or gypsum, have been dug
up near the hamlet of Burnmouth ; and in the vicinity
of the Eye are large quantities of coarse gravel, boul-
ders, and rolled blocks under the soil, apparently
alluvial, and rounded by the perpetual action of water.
The mansion-house of Ayton, which was destroyed by
fire a few years since, and is about to be rebuilt by
the proprietor, who has just purchased the property for
£170,000, was situated on a beautiful acclivity, near
the great London road, on the bank of the Eye, and
surrounded by extensive grounds. It was a fine ancient
edifice, and formed a commanding object of attraction,
being the first on the line of road after crossing the
border. The house of Prenderguest is a modern build-
ing of superior construction ; and at Peelwalls, is an
elegant residence, lately built of the celebrated stone
from the quarries of Killala, in Fifeshire, and situated
in grounds which vie with the mansion in beauty and
grandeur. Gunsgreen House, standing by the sea-side
and harbour of Eyemouth, is a fine mansion, erected by
a wealthy smuggler, who caused many concealments
to be constructed in the house, and under the grounds,
for the purpose of carrying on his contraband traffic.
A new and elegant seat was also recently erected on
the estate of Netherbyres, with an approach from the
north side, by means of a suspension bridge over the
Eye, by which, with many other improvements, this
ancient and valuable property has been rendered more
attractive.
The village of Ayton contains about 700 persons, and
the village of Burnmouth a third of that number ; at
the former, a cattle-market, recently established, takes
place monthly, and is well supported, and fairs have long
been held twice a year, but, at present, are not of much
importance. Numerous buildings have been erected
upon the new line of the London road, under leases
granted by the proprietor, and have improved the vil-
lage very considerably. There are several manufactories,
of which the principal is a paper-mill, where pasteboards
and coloured papers are chiefly prepared, by new and
greatly improved machinery, the drying process being
effected by the application of the paper round large
cylinders heated by steam ; about £S00 a year are paid
to the workmen, and the excise duties amount to up-
wards of £3000 per annum. A tannery, which is, at
present, on a small scale, but progressively increasing,
was commenced in the village, a few years since, and
produces annually several hundreds of pounds worth of
very superior leather ; and at Gunsgreen, is a distillery,
yielding about 1500 gallons of aqua weekly, chiefly de-
rived from potatoes, 6000 cwt. of which have sometimes
been consumed in two months. Kelp, also, has occa-
sionally been manufactured on the shore, at Burn-
mouth ; but the return is too small to induce the inha-
bitants to prosecute it with vigour. A harbour has
been lately constructed at Burnmouth, of sandstone
found in the parish, as a security against the violence
of the sea, at a cost of £1600, defrayed, three-fourths
by the commissioners for fisheries, and one-fourth by
BACK
BALB
the fishermen. Large quantities of white fish and occa-
sionally of red, of very fine quality, are taken in this
part, and cod, ling, and herrings are cured for distant
markets ; lobsters are sometimes sent to Loudon, and
periwinkles, with which the rocks abound, are likewise
made an article of trade, for the use of those fishmon-
gers who convert them into sauce. There is the
greatest facility of communication ; the great London
road, and the North-British railway, just constructed,
intersecting the parish ; and there is another road cross-
ing the London nearly at right angles, and leading from
Eyemouth into the interior of the county.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery
of Chirnside and synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; the
patronage is possessed by the Crown, and the minister's
stipend is £"21 S, with a glebe valued at £35 per annum,
and a manse on the bank of the Eye, erected at the
close of the last century. The church, which is con-
veniently situated about half a mile from the village, in
a romantic and sweetly secluded spot, near the Eye,
commanding a fine view of Ayton House, consists partly
of the walls of the ancient church, built about the
12th century, by the monks of Coldingham, and which
was of very considerable dimensions. The old south
transept is still entire, shrouded with mantling ivy, and
converted into a burying-place for the Ayton family ;
the gable of the chancel is also remaining, but its side
walls have been removed, for the sake of the sandstone
material, which appears to have been cut from the
quarry at Greystonlees. The present building was re-
paired and enlarged, twenty years since, and contains
456 sittings. There are two places of worship belong-
ing to the Associate Synod ; and also a parochial school,
in which are taught the usual branches of education,
with the classics, mathematics, and French if required,
and the master of which has a salary of £34. 4., and a
good house and garden, with fees, &c, to the amount of
£S4 a year. On the highest point of the southern ex-
tremity of the parish, is the round camp of Drumaw, or
Habchester, which, before recent mutilations by the
plough, was a fine specimen of ancient British encamp-
ments. It commands an extensive prospect both by sea
and land, and from its situation on the northern side of
the hill, and its use for observation and defence, it is
thought to have been constructed by South Britons, in
order to watch the movements, and repel the attacks,
of their northern neighbours. There are remains of
other camps in the vicinity, all of which, in process of
time, yielded to the more efficient and permanent de-
fence of castles, of which the remains are still visible in
many parts. The Castle of Ayton, as well as the British
encampment before noticed, was situated near the
Roman road which extended from the wall of Severus,
and, after crossing the country at Newcastle, terminated
at the Roman camp near St. Abbs Head in this dis-
trict.
B
BACHIES, a village, in the parish of Golspie,
county of Sutherland ; containing 145 inhabitants.
BACKDEAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Newton,
county of Edinburgh ; containing 45 inhabitants.
This hamlet lies near the source of a small tributary to
91
the Esk water, and borders upon the parish of Inveresk,
which is situated to the north-east of Backdean.
BACKMUIR, a hamlet, in the parish of Liff, Ben-
vie, and Invergowrie, county of Forfar ; containing
166 inhabitants. It is situated in the north-western
extremity of the parish, upon the border of the county
of Perth, and close to the Dighty water ; and the road
from Dundee to this place, here branches off into two
roads, one leading to Cupar-Angus, and the other to
Meigle.
BAILLIESTON, a village, in the late quoad sacra
parish of Crossbill, parish of Old Monkland, Middle
ward of the county of Lanark, 4f miles (E. by S.)
from Glasgow; containing 639 inhabitants. This is
the principal village of Crosshill parish, and is situ-
ated in the western part of the parish of Old Monkland,
on the border of that of Barony, and near the roads
from Glasgow to Airdrie and to Hamilton. For many
years past, the Monkland, Bothwell, Barony, and Cad-
der Farming Society have held their annual exhibition
of live stock in the village, and it is considered in Scot-
land as being second only to the exhibitions of the
Highland Society ; the description of stock is of the
first class, and prizes are frequently obtained by agri-
culturists of this neighbourhood, at the latter exhibi-
tions, where the competition is open to England and
Scotland. A subscription library is supported here.
BAINSFORD, a village, in the parish of Falkirk,
county of Stirling, I mile (N.) from Falkirk. This
village, which forms part of the suburbs of the town
of Falkirk, and is included within the parliamentary
boundary, is situated on the north side of the Forth and
Clyde canal, over which is a drawbridge, affording access
to the village of Grahamston. The inhabitants are
chiefly employed in the Carron iron-works, of which
the proprietors have a basin here, communicating with
the canal, and which is connected with the works, in
the adjoining parish of Larbert, by a railway. There is
also a rope-walk, in which several persons are employed ;
and in the village, which is neatly built, is a well-con-
ducted school.
BALBEGGIE, a village, in the parish of Kinnoull,
county of Perth, 5 miles (N. E.) from Perth ; contain-
ing 222 inhabitants. This village is situated in the
northern extremity of the parish, on the road to Cupar-
Angus ; and the Associate Synod have a place of wor-
ship here, with a residence for the minister, and a gar-
den attached.
BALBIRNE, a hamlet, in the parish of Ruthven,
county of Forfar; containing 43 inhabitants.
BAL15IRNIE, county of Fife. — See Markixch.
BALBLAIR, an island, in the parish of Fodderty,
county of Ross and Cromarty; containing 7 inhabit-
ants.
BA.LBROGIE, a village, in the parish of Cupar-
Angus, county of Perth, 1| mile (N. N. E.) from Cupar-
Angus ; containing SO inhabitants. A weekly market
has been established at this place, which is conveniently
situated near the road from Cupar-Angus to Meigle,
about midway between it and the river Isla.
BALBUNNO, a village, in the parish of Longfor-
gan, county of Perth ; containing 200 inhabitants.
This village, which is entirely upon the lands of Mylne-
field, is neatly built, and inhabited chiefly by persons
employed in a bleachfield in the immediate neighbour-
N 2
BALD
BALF
hood, though not within the limits of the parish of
Longforgan, which has been established within the last
few years, and to which the origin of the village may be
attributed.
BALCHULLISH.— See Ballichulish.
BALCURRIE, a village, in that part of the parish
of Markinch which forms the quoad sacra parish of
Milton of Balgonie, county of Fife ; containing 186
inhabitants.
BALDERNOCK, a parish, in the county of Stir-
ling, 7 miles (N.) from Glasgow ; containing, with the
village of Balmore, 972 inhabitants, of whom S14 are
exclusive of the village. The name of this place is
corrupted, as is supposed, from the Celtic term Baldrui-
nick, signifying " Druid's town;" and this opinion re-
ceives strong support from the numerous remains found
here, pertaining to that ancient order. The parish, of
which the eastern half was in that of Campsie till 1649,
is situated at the southern extremity of the county,
where it is bounded by the river Kelvin, which flows
towards the west, and by the Allander, running in the
opposite direction. It comprehends 3800 acres, of which
3100 are under cultivation, 240 wood, and the remain-
der roads and water, and about equal parts are appro-
priated for grain, green crops, &c, and for pasture.
The surface is greatly diversified, and consists of three
distinct portions, succeeding each other on a gradual
rise from south to north, each varying exceedingly from
the others, in soil, produce, and scenery, and the whole
circumscribed by an outline somewhat irregular, but
approaching in form to a square, the sides severally
measuring between two and three miles. The northern
tract, lying at an elevation of 300 feet above the sea,
and embracing fine views in all directions, contains a
few insulated spots under tillage, surrounded by moss
land, with a light sharp soil incumbent on whinstone.
Below this, the surface of the second tract assumes an
entirely different appearance, being marked by many
beautifully picturesque knolls, and a clayey soil, resting
on a tilly retentive subsoil ; and to this portion succeeds
the lowest land in the parish, and by far the richest,
comprising 700 or 800 acres along the bank of the
river, formed of a soil of dark loam, supposed to have
been washed down gradually from the higher grounds ;
this division is called the Balmore haughs. Barley
and oats are the prevailing sorts of grain, and all the
ordinary green crops are raised, potatoes, however,
being grown in the largest quantity. Draining is exten-
sively carried on, although much land is still in want of
this necessary process ; and the inundations from the
Kelvin, formerly often destructive to the crops on the
lower grounds, are now, to a great extent, prevented by
a strong embankment, and by a tunnel at the entrance
of a tributary of the river, by which the torrents, before
pouring forth, in rainy weather, uncontrolled, are now
so checked as to obviate danger. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £5713.
The rock consists of trap, in the southern and midland
portions ; but in the northern district, limestone, iron-
stone, pyrites, alum, and fire-clay are abundant, several
of which have been long wrought to a considerable ex-
tent, and lie in strata towards the east, stretching from
the extensive coal-beds of Campsie. Iron-ore has lately
been discovered in the coal-mines of Barraston, of very
superior quality to the common argillaceous kind for-
92
merly wrought, and consists of a mixture of iron with
carbonaceous substances, similar to that foind in the
mines near Airdrie. The coal and lime obtained, for
150 years, from this locality, the latter of which is ex-
cellent, and sent in large quantities to Glasgow and
many other places in the country, lie in beds from three
to four feet thick, and from twelve to twenty-four feet
under the surface, the superincumbent strata being
formed of argillaceous slate, calcareous freestone, and
ironstone. Pyrites and alum are plentiful, and fire-
clay, for a long period, was made into bricks, highly
esteemed as fire-proof. Bardowie, a very ancient man-
sion, once fortified, and a considerable part of which
is now modernised, is ornamented, in front, with a
beautiful loch a mile long, and is the seat of the chief
of the clan Buchanan ; towards the north-west, on an
eminence, are the remains of a tower once the family-
mansion, and near this is the seat of Craigmaddie, and,
in another direction, the mansion of Glenorchard. The
parish is traversed by a high road, running from west
to east, throughout its length ; and the Forth and Clyde
canal passes within a small distance of the south-eastern
boundary. A fair was once held in the summer, for cattle
and horses, but has fallen into disuse. Baldernock
is in the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the Crown; the
minister's stipend is £156. 19. 1., half of which is re-
ceived from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £19 per annum. The church is a plain edifice,
built in 1795, and contains 406 sittings. There is a
place of worship for members of the Free Church. The
parochial school affords instruction in reading, writing,
and arithmetic ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., and
the fees. In the vicinity of Blochairn farm, near which
a battle is said to have been fought with the Danes, are
several cairns, and, not far from these, three stones
called " the Auld Wives' Lifts," generally supposed to
be Druidical.
BALDOVAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Strath-
martine, county of Forfar ; containing 44 inhabitants.
It is in the south-eastern part of the parish, near the
Dighty water.
BALEDGARNO, a village, in the parish of Inch-
ture and Rossie, county of Perth, 9 miles (W.) from
Dundee; containing 1 10 inhabitants. It is situated in
the Carse of Gowrie, and southern portion of the parish,
and is a neat and thriving place, the property of Lord
Kinnaird. The hill of Baledgarno is finely planted with
various kinds of timber.
BALERNO, a village, in the parish of Currie,
county of Edinburgh, 7 miles (S. W.) from Edinburgh ;
containing 303 inhabitants. This place is situated on
the Leith water, on which are some mills for the manu-
facture of paper ; a freestone quarry has been worked
in the vicinity for a number of years, and many of the
buildings of the new town of Edinburgh have been
supplied from it.
BALFIELD, a hamlet, in the parish of Lethnott
and Navar, county of Forfar ; containing 41 inhabit-
ants. It lies in the south-eastern portion of the parish,
a little to the north of the West water.
BALFRON, a parish, in the county of Stirling,
6 miles (E. by N.) from Drymen ; containing 1970 in-
habitants, of whom 156S are in the village. There is an
opinion that this place has been called by its present
B A L F
BALL
name, which is said to signify " the town of sorrow" or
" mourning," from a dreadful calamity experienced hy
the original inhabitants, who, having left their children
in their tents, and departed to a spot at a short dis-
tance, for the performance of religious rites, found,
upon returning, that they had been all destroyed by
wolves, with which the neighbourhood was infested.
Others, however, interpret the name, Balfron, " the
town of burns." and imagine that it received this deno-
mination on account of the situation of the old village,
now fallen to decay, at the confluence of two small
streams. The parish is eleven miles in length, from
east to west, and three in breadth, and comprises 14,080
acres, of which 3320 are under cultivation, 105 planta-
tions, and the remainder waste. The surface is diversi-
fied with pleasing eminences, on one of which, gently
sloping to the south, is the neatly-built and interesting
village, enlivened by the stream of the Endrick, winding
through a richly-wooded vale at its foot, and supplying,
to the lovers of angling, an ample stock of trout, of a
peculiarly fine flavour. The lofty hills called the Len-
nox fells, rising 1500 feet above the level of the sea,
form here a singularly striking feature, bounding the
scenery in one direction ; and the distant view embraces
the Grampian range, displaying to great advantage the
majestic Ben-Lomond, with many subordinate, yet im-
posing, elevations. The farms, in general, are of small
size, and the soil, which, in some places, is light and
sandy, but more frequently wet and tilly, is cultivated
with much skill ; dairy-farming is a favourite branch of
husbandry, and the stock, consisting of the Ayrshirebreed,
has been very much improved, as well as that of the sheep,
in consequence of the liberal patronage of the Strath-
Endrick Agricultural Club. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £4704. Limestone is abundant ; but it
has not been wrought to any extent, through the want
of coal, which, however, is supposed to exist here, on
account of the usual accompanying trap-rocks having
been found, though all attempts to discover it have
hitherto failed. The ancient mansion of Ballindalloch,
in the parish, formerly belonged to the Glencairn family,
celebrated in Scottish history, and of whom Alexander,
the fifth earl, was the friend, associate, and patron of
John Knox.
The population was once entirely rural, and the chief
point of interest was the old village, with its spreading
oak, where the church and burial-ground are situated ;
but, about sixty-five years since, manufactures were in-
troduced, and a new village quickly sprang up. In
17S0, the manufacture of calicoes commenced ; and
in 1"S9, cotton-spinning succeeded, when a mill was
erected, known by the name of the Ballindalloch cotton-
works, now employing upwards of 250 hands, chiefly
females, and driven by a stream supplied by the En-
drick, augmented, in case of failure, by the water of a
large reservoir in Dundaff moor. In the village are
between 300 and 400 hand-looms, employing the larger
part of the population in making light jaconets and
lawns, and all kinds of fancy dresses and shawl patterns,
which branches, however, have been, for some time,
greatly depressed. Good roads run to Stirling and
Glasgow, from which Balfron is nearly equidistant, and
with which latter the chief communication is carried on,
there being a daily post, and numerous conveyances ; a
large cattle-fair is held in the neighbourhood, on the last
93
Tuesday in March, and another in the last week in June.
The parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the Earl
of Kinnoull ; the minister's stipend is £158. 6. 4., above
half of which is paid from the exchequer, with a manse,
and a glebe of 17 acres, valued at £25 per annum. The
church is a very plain structure, rebuilt in 1832, at a cost
of £930 ; it contains 690 sittings, and is conveniently
situated in the village, but too remote from the eastern
quarter, in consequence of which the minister preaches
there, once every six weeks in summer, and once every
quarter in winter. The Relief, United Secession, and
Burgher denominations, have each a place of worship;
the parochial school affords instruction in the ordinary
branches, and the master has a salary of £25, and £10
fees. The parish also contains a library of 400 volumes
in miscellaneous literature, for circulation ; and one of
religious books, with about 150 volumes. This place,
with some others, asserts its claim to the honour of
being the birthplace of Napier, the inventor of Loga-
rithms.
BALGONIE, county of Fife. — See Coaltown, and
Markinch.
BALGRAY, a hamlet, in the parish of Tealing,
county of Forfar : containing 63 inhabitants. It is
situated in the south-eastern part of the parish, near
the church, from which it is divided by a small rivulet
that rises within the limits of Tealing.
BALHADDIE, a hamlet, in the parish of Dun-
blane ; forming part of the late quoad sacra parish of
Ardoch, county of Perth, and containing 33 inha-
bitants.
BALINTORE, a village, in the parish of Fearn,
county of Ross and Cromarty, 2| miles (E. by S.)
from Fearn ; containing 313 inhabitants. This is a
fishing village, situated on the coast of the Moray
Frith, which has here a flat and generally sandy shore :
on the south, is the ferry of Cromarty, distant about
four miles.
BALI SHEAR, an island, in the parish of North
Uist, county of Inverness ; containing 157 inhabitants.
It is situated in the channel between the islands of
North Uist and Benbecula, and has a small village on
the east side.
BALKELLO, a hamlet, in the parish of Tealing,
county of Forfar ; containing 88 inhabitants.
BALLANTRAE, a parish, in the district of Car-
rick, county of Ayr, 13 miles (S. by W.) from Girvan ;
containing 1651 inhabitants, of whom 605 are in the
village. This place, anciently called Kirkcudbright-
Innertig, derived that appellation from the position of
its church, at the mouth of the river Tig ; and, on the
removal of the church from that site to the town of
Ballantrae, assumed its present name, which, in the
Celtic language, is descriptive of its situation on the sea-
shore. The parish is bounded on the west by the Irish
Sea, and comprises nearly 25,000 acres, of which about
7000 are arable, 400 woodland and plantations, and the
remainder rough moorland, affording scanty pasture.
The surface is greatly diversified with hills and dales,
and is intersected by a series of four parallel ridges,
increasing in elevation as they recede from the shore,
and of which the third and highest, is distinguished by
a hill 1430 feet above the sea, which was selected as one
of the stations for carrying on the late trigonometrical
BALL
BALL
survey of this part of the coast. From this point is
obtained an extensive and beautiful prospect, embracing
the Isle of Man, the north-east coast of Ireland, Cantyre,
the isles of Ailsa and Arran, and the Ayrshire coast,
terminated by the West Highland mountains in the back
ground ; and in another direction appear the Dum-
fries-shire hills, the Cumberland and Westmorland moun-
tains, and Solway Frith. The coast, extends for about
ten miles ; the shore is bold, and interspersed with
rocks, except for about three miles near the village.
The principal river is the Stinchar, which rises in the
parish of Barr, and, after flowing for nearly three miles
through this parish, of which it forms part of the
boundary to the north, falls into the sea ; the Tig, rising
in the high grounds, after a short course, flows into the
Stinchar; and the App, a very inconsiderable stream,
flows westward, through the picturesque dell of Glen-
App, into Loch Ryan. These streams all abound with
common and sea trout, par, and occasionally salmon,
which is plentiful in the Stinchar.
The soil is chiefly of a light and gravelly quality ;
near the shore, sandy j and in the level lands, especially
near the rivers, a rich and fertile loam. The crops are,
oats, wheat, bear, potatoes, turnips, and a few acres of
beans and peas ; bone-dust has been introduced as
manure ; the lands have been drained, and considerable
improvements were made, under the auspices of the
late Stinchar Agricultural Association, which included
this parish, in which it originated. There are several
dairy-farms, all well managed, and, in the aggregate,
producing annually about 5000 stone of sweet-milk
cheese, known under the designation of Dunlop cheese.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £7265. The
natural woods are very inconsiderable, though, from the
number of trees found imbedded in the soil, they wrould
appear to have been formerly extensive ; they consist
mostly of oak, ash, and birch, and on the banks of the
Stinchar and the Tig, are some valuable trees. The
plantations are of comparatively recent formation, but
are in a thriving condition, and some which have been
laid down in Glen- App, and on the ridge to the north of
it, by the Earl of Orkney, promise to become a great
ornament in the scenery of the parish. The village,
which was once a burgh of barony, by charter of
James V., is pleasantly situated on the north bank of
the river Stinchar, about half a mile from its influx into
the sea ; a public library is supported by subscription,
and a post-office has been established. A considerable
salmon-fishery is prosecuted at the mouth of the Stin-
char ; the fish are sent chiefly to the markets of Ayr
and Kilmarnock, and the annual produce may be esti-
mated at about £500; the season generally commences
in February, and closes in September. The white
fishery is carried on extensively, employing twenty
boats, to each of which four men are assigned, and from
eight to twenty nets are used ; the fish are principally
cod and turbot, and in some seasons, herrings are also
taken in abundance ; the produce may be estimated at
about £2000, and the season usually commences in
January, and ends in April. A court of petty-session
was formerly held every alternate month, at which two
of the county magistrates presided. The steam-boat
from Stranraer to Glasgow calls at this place ; a facility
of intercourse is also afforded by excellent roads, and
the mail from Ireland to Glasgow passes daily.
94
The parish is in the presbytery of Stranraer and
synod of Galloway, and in the patronage of the Duchess
de Coigny; the minister's stipend is £248. 1. 3., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum. The
present church, erected in 1819, is a substantial edifice,
adapted for a congregation of 600 persons : the former
church of Ballantrae, together with a manse, was erected
in 1617, at the sole expense of the laird of Bargany.
There are still some remains of the original church at
Innertig. A place of worship has been erected in con-
nexion with the Free Church. The parochial school is
well conducted ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4§.,
with £16 fees, and a house and garden, and he receives
the interest of a bequest of £400, for the instruction of
an additional number of poor scholars. The late Mrs.
Caddall bequeathed £4500, and 15 acres of land, for
the endowment and erection of a chapel and school in
Glen-App, in connexion with the Established Church ;
the trustees have established the school, and selected
land for the glebe, and intend to build the chapel, when
the funds shall have accumulated sufficiently to provide
for the endowment of a minister, after defraying the
expense of its erection. On a rock near the village,
and within the precincts of the glebe, are the remains of
the ancient castle of Ardstinchar, formerly belonging to
the Bargany family.
BALLATER, a village, in the parish of Glenmuick,
Tbllich, and Glengairn, district, of Kincardine
O'Neil, county of Aberdeen ; containing 371 inha-
bitants. This place, situated in a beautiful valley, on
the north bank of the Dee, was formed about the begin-
ning of the present century, by the late proprietor,
William Farquharson, Esq., of Monaltrie, by whose
directions the site was measured for the erection of re-
gular streets and squares, the former of which cross
the main street at right angles, and the latter, with
allotments of ground, have been let out in perpetual
feu tenements. Besides numerous well-constructed
private houses, the village contains an excellent inn,
some good shops, a circulating library, and a post-office
communicating daily with Aberdeen, to which place
there is a daily mail-coach, together with several weekly
carriers. The salubrity of the air, and the picturesque
scenery of the locality, draw many visiters from Aber-
deen and other parts, in the summer months ; but the
chief attraction is the chalybeate waters of Pananich,
in the vicinity, which hold in solution carbonate of
iron, lime, magnesia, &c, and are considered of much
efficacy in scorbutic and nephritic complaints. There
are superior hot, cold, and shower baths, and many
convenient lodging-houses ; and in a square in the vil-
lage, stands the parish church, and, at a short distance,
the parochial school. Over the Dee is a good wooden
bridge of four arches, erected in 1834, at a cost of up-
wards of £2000.
BALLENDEAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Inch-
ture and Rossie, county of Perth ; containing 80 in-
habitants. This place is situated in the Carse of Gow-
rie, near Ballendean hill, which is oi' considerable eleva-
tion, and also near the handsome mansion of Ballendean
House.
BALLENLUIG, a village, in the parish of Logie-
rait, county of Perth; containing 114 inhabitants.
It is in the north-eastern portion of the parish, near the
river Tummel, which flows on the north-east.
BALL
BALM
BALLICHULISH, a quoad sacra parish, in the pa-
rish of Kilmalie, partly in the district and county of
Argyll, and partly in the county of Inverness,
1 1 miles (S. by W.) from Fort-William ; containing 1235
inhabitants. The village of Ballichulish is situated on
the south shore of Loch Leven, a branch of Loch Linnhe,
and there is a ferry to the opposite coast, not far from
it ; the prospect is of the most imposing character,
embracing lofty mountains and extensive lakes, relieved
by woods and pastures, and other interesting features.
The parish consists of two distinct districts, separated
from each other by Loch Linnhe, with a church in each
district. The district connected with the church at
Ballichulish, in Invernesshire, is 17 miles by 7, or
119 square miles, in extent; that connected with the
church at Ardgower, in Argyllshire, is 14 miles by 6,
or 84 square miles, in extent, making a total of '203
square miles. The churches were built in June 1829,
and are about four miles apart ; that of Ballichulish
has 300 sittings, and the church of Ardgower, 210, and
public worship is performed once a fortnight in each.
An Episcopalian clergyman officiates every Sunday,
in a chapel in the parish of Appin, within three miles
of Ballichulish church ; and a Roman Catholic priest
officiates once in three weeks, at Ballichulish slate
quarry, likewise in Appin parish, and where there is
also an Establishment chapel. A place of worship in
connexion with the Free Church has been erected.
BALLINGRY, a parish, in the district of Kirk-
caldy, county of Fife, 3 miles (N. E. by E.) from
Blair-Adam Inn ; containing 436 inhabitants. This
place is supposed to have derived its name, of Gaelic
origin, from its having been, at one time, an occa-
sional residence of the Scottish kings. During the
invasion of Britain by the Romans, under Agricola, a
battle is said to have occurred between the Caledonians
under Galgacus, and the IX. legion, which was stationed
here, when the latter were totally defeated ; but Agricola,
upon receiving intelligence of that event, put the whole
of his army in motion, and, falling upon the rear of
the Caledonians, compelled them to yield to superior
numbers, and retire from the field. The latter, however,
retreated in good order, bravely defending the fords of
Loch Leven against the invaders, and obstinately dis-
puting every inch of ground. Numerous memorials of
this contest have been met with ; at the east end of the
loch, and also where Auchmuir bridge now crosses
that ancient ford, Caledonian battle-axes and Roman
weapons have been discovered ; and a few years since,
a Caledonian battle-axe of polished stone, firmly fixed
in an oaken handle, twenty-two inches long, was found
near the spot.
The parish, which is of very irregular form, comprises
about 3700 acres, of which 1394 are arable, 1874
meadow and pasture, 242 woodland and plantations,*
and the remainder common and waste ; the surface is
generally a level, broken only by the hill of Binarty, of
which the southern acclivity has been richly planted,
forming an interesting feature in the scenery. The soil,
in the northern portion, is rich, dry, and fertile, but in
other parts, of inferior quality ; the crops are, oats, and
barley, with some wheat, beans, and potatoes. Great
improvement has been made by draining, but, in rainy
seasons, the drains are insufficient to carry off the
water ; the loch on the estate of Lochore, has been
95
drained, and now produces excellent crops of grain.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £4611.
Limestone and coal are found in various parts ; the
former is of inferior quality, and not worked, but the
latter is wrought on two estates in the parish, with
success ; whinstone and freestone are also found here,
and, on the hill of Binarty, basaltic whinstone. The
parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy and synod of
Fife, and in the gift of the lady of Sir Walter Scott,
Bart.; the minister's stipend is £172. 8. 3., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £18 per annum. The
church is a substantial and neat structure, erected in
1831. The parochial school is tolerably attended;
the master's salary is £34. 4. 4., with fees, and a
house. The poor are supported by the rent of land
producing £21, by collections at the church, and by the
proceeds of a bequest of £100 by William Jobson, Esq.,
of Lochore.
BALLOCH, a village, in the parish and county of
Inverness; containing 104 inhabitants.
BALLOCHNEY, a village, in that part of the parish
of New Monkland which formed the quoad sacra parish
of Clarkston, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ;
containing 559 inhabitants. This place, which is situ-
ated in the southern part of the parish, in an important
coal and ironstone district, gives name to a line of
railway extending from it, for about four miles west-
ward, to the southern terminus of the Monkland and
Kirkintilloch, and the eastern terminus of the Glasgow
and Garnkirk, railroad. The capital of the company,
which was incorporated in 1 S26, was originally £18,000 ;
but power was acquired, in the session of 1S35, to in-
crease it to £28,000 ; and by an act passed July 1, 1S39,
the capital was further augmented to £70,000, for the
purpose of improving the line, which now has several
branches. In 1843, the company was empowered to
increase its capital to £110,000.
BALMACLELLAN, a parish, in the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright, l| mile (N. E.) from New Galloway;
containing 1134 inhabitants, of whom 113 are in the
village. This place takes its name from its ancient
proprietors, a branch of the family of Maclellan of
Bombie, lords of Kirkcudbright, who flourished here
for many generations. The parish, which is bounded
on the west by the river Ken, and on the east by the
river Urr, is of an irregularly oblong figure, comprising
about 23,737 acres, of which 4000 are arable, 300
wood and plantations, and the remainder, with the ex-
ception of some extensive tracts of moorland and moss,
meadow and pasture. The surface is varied with hills,
of which some rise to a considerable height, and is
interspersed with small valleys, of different degrees of
fertility, and great variety of aspect ; the lower grounds
are watered by the Craig and Crogo rivulets, issuing
from a range of hills in opposite directions, and dividing
the parish from that of Parton on the south, and from
the parishes of Dairy and Glencairn on the north.
Along the banks of the Ken, a range of mounts called
Drums, extends for two or three miles into the interior
of the parish, beyond which the country assumes a
more wild and rugged aspect, consisting of large tracts
of moor and peat moss, interspersed with a few detached
portions of cultivated land. In the upper parts of the
parish, are numerous lakes, of which Loch Brach, Loch
Barscole, Loch Skae, and Loch Lowes are the principal ;
BALM
BALM
but the most extensive and beautiful is Loch Ken, on
the western border of the parish, into which the river
Ken, which frequently overflows its banks, discharges
its waters. The several streams and lakes abound with
trout, and more especially Loch Braeh, in which are
yellow trout, equal in quality to those of Lochinvar;
pike are also found in most of them, and in Loch Ken,
one was taken which weighed 721bs. The river, in its
course, forms numerous picturesque cascades, of which
the most interesting and most romantic is that called
the Holy Linn ; the prevailing scenery is, in many
parts, richly diversified, and, more particularly around
the village, is beautifully picturesque.
The soil is extremely various ; the lands which are
under cultivation have been much improved, and to-
wards the east, considerable tracts, hitherto unprofit-
able, are gradually becoming of value ; but there is still
much moor and moss, scarcely susceptible of improve-
ment. The chief crops are, grain of all kinds, with
potatoes and turnips; the farm-buildings on some of
the lands are substantial and commodious, but, on
others, of very inferior order. The cattle are generally
of the Galloway breed, except a few cows of the Ayr-
shire kind, on one of the dairy-farms ; and the sheep
are of the black-faced breed, except on one farm, which
is stocked with a cross between the black and the white
faced, and a few of the Cheviot ; a very considerable
number of pigs are reared, and sent to the Dumfries
market. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£5115. The substratum is almost wholly whinstone,
of which the rocks chiefly consist, and of which great
quantities are raised, affording excellent materials for
the roads ; slate is found, and till lately there were
two quarries in operation. The plantations, which are
mostly oak, ash, and fir, are distributed throughout the
lands, in detached portions of ten or twelve acres each.
Holm is a handsome residence in the parish ; and there
are also the houses of Craig and Craigmuie. The chief
village stands at the intersection of the turnpike-roads
leading from Edinburgh to Wigton, and from Glasgow
to Kirkcudbright ; the small village of Crogo is a retired
hamlet, in the south of the parish, containing about
sixty inhabitants, and takes its name from the rivulet
on which it is situated. In 1822, a substantial bridge
of granite, of five arches, was built over the river Ken,
by the floods of which two several bridges had been pre-
viously swept away; the central arch has a span of 100
feet.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright and synod of
Galloway; the minister's stipend is £226. 19- 8., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £35 per annum ; patron,
the Crown. The church is a plain structure, built in
1772, and enlarged and repaired in 1S33, and contains
370 sittings ; the churchyard is spacious, and com-
mands a fine view, extending over the whole vale of
the Ken. There are two parochial schools, of which
the masters have each a salary of £17. 2. 2., with a
house and garden, in addition to the fees, which average
about £15 per annum. A free school is supported by
an endowment of £70 per annum, arising from land
purchased with a bequest of £500 by Edward Burdock,
Esq., in 1788 ; the school-house was built in 1790, with
a dwelling-house for the master, who has a salary of
£17- 2. 2., but, in consideration of the endowment, re-
96
ceives no fees from the pupils. Barscole Castle, an-
ciently a seat of the Maclellans, is little more than a
heap of ruins. On Dularran Holm, is an erect stone of
great size, without inscription, supposed to mark out
the spot where some Danish chief fell in battle ; and on
a hill near the village, a large ball of oak, and a set of
bowling-pins, all of which, except two, were standing
erect, were discovered a few years since, by persons
cutting peat, at a depth of about twelve feet below the
surface of the ground.
BALMAGHIE, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirk-
cudbright, 4 miles (N. w.) from Castle-Douglas ;
containing 1252 inhabitants, of whom 275 are in the
village of Laurieston, and 243 in that of Bridge of Dee.
This place takes its name from its ancient proprietors,
the Mc Gies, whose ancestor, an Irish chieftain, settled
here at a very remote period, and whose descendants
retained possession of the chief lands for many genera-
tions. A part was the property of the Douglas family,
whose baronial residence, Threave Castle, was built upon
the site of a more ancient structure belonging to the
lords of Galloway, who exercised, for many years, a
kind of sovereignty, independent of the crown of Scot-
land. In 1451, the eighth earl of Douglas, in retalia-
tion of some aggression on his territories, seized Sir
Patrick Maclellan, of Bombie, and detained him pri-
soner in the castle of Threave, intending to bring him
to trial, by right of his hereditary jurisdiction ; and on
the arrival of Sir Patrick Grey, of Foulis, commander of
the body-guard of James II., with a warrant from the
king, demanding his release, Douglas, suspecting his
errand, instantly ordered Maclellan to be beheaded in
the court-yard. The castle was soon afterwards be-
sieged by the king in person ; but the artillery making
no impression upon the walls, which were of extraordi-
nary thickness, a blacksmith, who witnessed the assault,
offered to make a cannon of sufficient power for the
purpose ; and the family of Maclellan providing him
with iron for the work, he constructed the enormous
cannon afterwards called Mons Meg, which weighed
more than six tons and a half. This formidable engine,
which was made in the immediate vicinity of the royal
camp, being with great difficulty dragged to a command-
ing position in front of the castle, the first shot spread
consternation among the besieged, and the second
pierced through the wall of the castle, and, entering the
banquet-hall, carried away the right hand of the coun-
tess, who, at the moment, was raising a goblet of wine
to her mouth. The garrison immediately surrendered,
and the king presented to the blacksmith, whose name
was Mc Kim, or Mc Min, the lands of Mollance, as a re-
ward for his ingenuity in devising and accomplishing
the means of his success.
This castle was the last of the various fortresses that
beld out for the earls of Douglas, after their rebellion in
1453 ; and upon the fall of that family, and the conse-
quent annexation of Galloway to the crown of Scotland,
in 1455, it was granted by the king to the family of
Maxwell, afterwards earls of Nithsdale, hereditary stew-
ards of Kirkcudbright, and "keepers of the king's castle
of Threave." During the parliamentary war, in the
reign of Charles I., the Earl of Nithsdale, who held the
castle for the king, maintained in it a garrison of eighty
men, with their officers, at his own expense ; and when
no longer able to maintain it against its assailants, the
BALM
BALM
king, who was unable to send him any assistance, re-
commended him to make the best terms he could for
the garrison and himself. As hereditary keepers of the
castle after the Restoration, the earls received annually,
from each parish in the stewartry, a fat cow ; and when
they sold the estate, in 1704, they reserved the castle
and the island, to which they appointed a captain, in
order to secure their right to the cattle, which was re-
gularly paid till the attainder of the earl, for rebellion,
in 1715. There are still some very conspicuous re-
mains of the ancient castle, situated on an island of
about 20 acres in extent, formed by the Dee, at the
south-eastern angle of the parish ; they consist chiefly
of the keep, which was surrounded by an outer wall,
with four circular turrets, of which one only is standing.
Several stone balls, weighing from one to 3§ pounds,
and a gold ring, supposed to be that worn by the
countess when her hand was shot off, were found in the
castle, in 1843; and in the year preceding, a large ball
of granite, 19 inches in diameter, thought to be that
discharged from Mons Meg, was found by some labour-
ers who were clearing the ground.
The parish, which is situated nearly in the centre of
the county, is bounded on the north by the Black-
water of Dee, and on the east by the river Dee ; it is
about nine miles in length, and seven in extreme
breadth, and comprises 22,000 acres, of which nearly
7000 are arable, and the remainder meadow, pasture,
and waste, with a moderate proportion of woodland and
plantations. The surface, towards the south-east, is
tolerably level, but, in all other parts, hilly, though not
strictly mountainous ; the higher grounds command
extensive views, including, to the north-west, the Cars-
phairn and Minnigaff hills, and, to the south-east, those
of Cumberland, with the Isle of Man, in clear weather.
In the uplands are several lakes, of which Loch Gran-
noch, or Woodhall, the largest, is about 2^ miles in
length, and half a mile in breadth ; and, with the ex-
ception of Lochinbreck, which abounds with trout, they
are all well stored with pike and perch. The soil in
the valley of the Dee is fertile, and there are extensive
and productive tracts of meadow in the parish ; the
principal crops grown are, oats, barley, potatoes, and
turnips. The system of agriculture is improved; the
farm-buildings are generally substantial and commo-
dious, and those on the lands of Balmaghie are all
of recent erection, and of very superior order. Bone-
dust is used as manure for turnips 5 the lands have
been well drained, and are mostly inclosed with stone
dykes. The moorlands afford tolerable pasture for
sheep, of which about 4000, of the black-faced breed,
are annually reared ; and about 400 of the white-faced,
a cross between the Leicestershire and Cheviot, are
pastured on the low grounds. The cattle, of which
about 1000 are fed on the uplands, are of the Galloway
and Highland breeds ; and on the lowland farms are
numerous cows, principally Galloways, with some of the
Ayrshire kind. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £6603.
The substrata are chiefly greywacke or whinstone,
and in the higher lands, granite is found in abundance ;
but there is no limestone, and what is required for
building, or for agricultural purposes, is brought from
Cumberland. The plantations are not extensive, but
thrive well ; they consist mainly of larch and oak,
Vol. I.— 97
which appear adapted to the soil. Balmaghie House,
an ancient mansion, in which parts of an older building
have been incorporated, is pleasantly seated near the
river Dee, in grounds beautifully undulated, and embel-
lished with plantations : Duchrae House, a handsome
mansion of granite, built in the old English style, about
the year 1824, is finely situated near the confluence of
the Dee and Ken. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright
and synod of Galloway ; the minister's stipend is
£203. 8. S., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £17. 10.
per annum ; patron, Capt. Gordon. The church, built
in 1794, is situated near the Dee ; it is in good repair,
and contains 400 sittings. There are two parochial
schools ; one at the village of Laurieston, of which the
master has a house, and a salary of £30, with fees
averaging nearly an equal sum ; and the other at Glen-
lochar, the master of which has a salary of £21. 6. 6.,
with fees amounting to about £14.
BALMALCOLM, a village, in the parish of Kettle,
district of Cupar, county of Fife, 1 mile (S. E.) from
Kettle; containing 113 inhabitants. It is a small
place, on the road between Cupar and Leslie, and a
short distance south of the river Eden.
BALMBRAE, a village, in the parish of Falkland,
district of Cupar, county of Fife; containing 114 in-
habitants, employed in agriculture, and in hand-loom
weaving at their own dwellings.
BALMERINO, a parish, in the district of Cupar,
county of Fife, 5 miles (W.) from Newport ; containing,
with the villages of Kirkton and Galdry, 993 inhabit-
ants, of whom 62 are in the village of Balmerino. This
place, of which the name, of Celtic origin, signifies
" the town of the sea," or " Sailors' town," most pro-
bably derived that appellation from its position on the
estuary of the river Tay. It appears to have been
distinguished, at a very early period, for the mild tem-
perature of its climate, and the salubrity of its atmo-
sphere ; and early in the 13th century, it was selected
by Queen Ermengard, widow of William the Lion, and
mother of Alexander II., as a place of occasional resort,
for the benefit of her health; and, subsequently, by
Magdalene, queen of James V., for the same purpose.
A monastery was founded here by Alexander II., in
1230, for Cistercian monks, at the solicitation of Ermen-
gard, in gratitude for the benefit she received while
resident here, which monastery he dedicated to the
Virgin Mary and St. Edward the Confessor, and in
which he placed monks of that order, from the abbey of
Melrose. This establishment was endowed by Queen
Ermengard, with lands in this county, purchased from
Adam de Stawell, to which Alexander added the church
and lands of Lochmure, in Angus, and those of Petgor-
noc and Drumdol, in the county of Fife. It continued
to increase in wealth, by the liberality of subsequent
benefactors, till the Dissolution, when its revenues
amounted to £704. 2. 10§. in money, exclusively of a
considerable income in grain and other agricultural pro-
duce. The abbey was demolished in 1558, by the
lords of the congregation, on their route from St. An-
drew's ; the site, with the lands appertaining to it, was
subsequently granted to Sir James Elphinstone, of
Barnton ; and after the Reformation, the estates were
constituted a lordship, in favour of Sir James, who was
raised to the Scottish peerage, in 1604, by the title of
O
BALM
BALN
Lord Balmerino, which became extinct in 1*45, by
the attainder and execution of his descendant, the
then lord.
The parish is bounded on the north by the Frith of
Tay, along the shore of which it extends from Birkhill
to Wormit bay; and comprises 3400 acres, of which
nearly 2700 are arable, and in profitable cultivation, 500
woods and plantations, and the remainder pasture and
waste. The surface is greatly varied, and traversed by
two nearly parallel ridges, extending from east to west,
and inclosing a lovely valley, in which the village is
situated ; the highest points of these ridges are, the
Scurr hill, on the north, which has an elevation of 400
feet, and the Coultry hill, on the south, which rises to
the height of 500 feet above the sea. There is also a
considerable portion of high table land on the southern
ridge, on which the village of Galdry stands. The scenery
abounds with romantic features, and is every where
enriched with woods and thriving plantations : a little
to the east of the church, and nearly in the centre of
the valley, is a small elevation, on the brow of which
is Naughton House, and on the summit are the ruins
of an ancient castle ; beneath is a picturesque dell, from
which a mass of rock rises abruptly to the height nearly
of 100 feet. The shores of the Tay are bold and rocky,
having, in some parts, precipitous and lofty cliffs; and
on that portion of the shore which rises more gradually,
are the picturesque ruins of the abbey, overlooking the
river. The Tay affords excellent facilities for bathing,
being strongly impregnated with saline particles ; there
are no other rivers in the parish, but the lands are,
notwithstanding, well watered by numerous springs, of
which many appear, from their names, to have been
formerly of great notoriety, and from which issue various
small streams that attain sufficient power to turn
several mills.
The soil is generally light ; in some parts, a rich
black loam ; and in others, gravelly ; but, under good
management, rendered fertile and productive. The crops
are, grain of all kinds, potatoes, and turnips ; the sys-
tem of agriculture is improved ; the farm -buildings are
substantial and commodious, and on all of the farms
are threshing-machines, of which some are driven
by water. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£4962. The substrata are chiefly sandstone and whin-
stone, of the former of which there are two varieties,
one extremely compact, and well adapted for building
purposes ; the other, more friable, and abounding with
nodules of quartz and other substances. The whinstone
is of different qualities, comprising amygdaloid, trap
tuffa, felspar, and clay-stone porphyry ; that which is
of coarser grain, contains amethyst, calcareous spar,
chalcedony, and agates. The Scurr hill abounds with
mineral varieties; the most beautiful agates occur there,
and boulders of primitive rock are found along the
shore, and on the highest ridges. Naughton House was
erected towards the commencement of the present cen-
tury, and has since been enlarged and improved. Birk-
hill is an elegant and spacious mansion, on the bank
of the river, and embosomed in rich and beautiful
plantations.
A salmon-fishery was formerly carried on in the Tay,
to a large extent, and proved a source of great gain,
but, since the prohibition of the use of stake-nets, in
1816, it has materially declined; the quantity pre-
98
viously taken in the Firth, was, on an average, about
30,000, in the season ; at present, the number of fish
scarcely amounts to one-tenth part. Since this altera-
tion, several who were once employed in the fishery,
are now engaged in weaving at their own houses, for the
manufacturers of Dundee ; the principal articles woven
are dowlas and Osnaburghs, in which about 150 per-
sons are engaged, of whom a large portion are women.
Great quantities of grain were formerly shipped from
the harbour of this place, which was the chief port, on
the south side of the Tay, for that article ; but, at pre-
sent, only small quantities of wheat are sent by the
farmers here, to the bakers of Dundee, by a passage-boat
which is kept up by subscription of the parishioners.
Considerable quantities of potatoes are sent to the
London market ; and many vessels with coal land their
cargoes here. The village of Balmerino is pleasantly
situated on the western declivity of the Scurr hill, al-
ready mentioned.
The parish is in the presbytery of Cupar and synod
of Fife; the minister's stipend is £239. 9., with a
manse, and the glebe is valued at £18 per annum. The
church, a neat and substantial edifice of stone, erected
in 1811, is nearly in the centre of the parish. The
parochial school affords instruction to about 130
scholars ; the master's salary is £34. 4. 4., with £2S
fees, and a house and garden. The ruins of Balmerino
Abbey consist chiefly of a small portion of the walls,
with some clustered columns, and part of the corbels
from which sprang the arches that, supported the roof,
and which are in the decorated English style ; and of
one cell, still in tolerable preservation. There are also
remains of the ancient castle of Naughton, said to have
been built soon after the Conquest, by Robert de Lundon ;
they comprise only some fragments of the side walls,
which derive their chief importance from their situation,
on the summit of a lofty crag rising almost perpendicu-
larly from a deep and richly-wooded dell. An esta-
blishment of Culdees is said to have existed here, in
connexion with those of St. Andrew's ; and in a field in
the parish, still called the Battle Law, an engagement
is reported to have taken place between the Scots and
the Danes, of whom the latter were driven to their ships :
near the spot, stone coffins, broken armour, and bones
have been discovered. Some years since, two pieces of
gold were found in afield on the farm of Peashills, which
appear to have formed ornaments of some kind, and
were of the value of £14 sterling.
BALMORE, a village, in the parish of Balder-
nock, county of Stirling ; containing 15S inhabitants.
It lies in the south-eastern portion of the parish, on the
road between Torrance and Bardowie, and about half a
mile south of the Kelvin water.
BALMULLO, a village, in the parish of Letjchars,
district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 6 miles (E. S.
E.) from St. Andrew's; containing 2/4 inhabitants.
This village is pleasantly situated on the road to Dundee,
and consists of an irregular range of houses, chiefly in-
habited by persons employed in weaving and in agricul-
ture. There is a place of worship for members of the
Original Secession Synod.
BALNABRUACH, a village, in the parish of Tar-
bat, county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 167
inhabitants. It is a small place, situated on the eastern
coast, and chiefly inhabited by fishermen.
B ALQ
BANC
BALNA-HUAIGH ISLE, one of the Hebrides, in
the parish of Jura, district of Islay, county of Ar-
gyll. It is north of the island of Jura, and of Luing
Sound, and is about a mile in circumference, and en-
tirely composed of a biuish-coloured slate, of good
quality : a number of families, who derive their sub-
sistence from the quarry, reside upon it.
BALNASUIM, a village, in the parish of Weem,
county of Perth ; containing 4S inhabitants.
BALQUHIDDER, a parish, in the county of Perth,
9 miles (S. by W.) from Killin ; containing, with the
villages of Strathyre and Lochearnhead, S71 inhabitants.
This parish, of which the name, descriptive of its situa-
tion in the county, is derived from the Gaelic, is about
eighteen miles iu length, and rather more than six miles
in breadth. The surface is very irregular, and compre-
hends a rich variety of valleys and hills, of level lands
and deep glens, and of lofty rocks rising abruptly from
the plains. The principal hills are, Benvorlich, Ben-
chroin, Benvane, Binean, Benchoin, and Bentallachan :
near the hill at Edinample, is an ancient castle, be-
longing to the Marquess of Breadalbane, embosomed
in a wood of lofty plane-trees, near which is a beautiful
cascade ; and in the hill of Craigruigh, Robert Bruce is
said to have concealed himself after the defeat of his
forces in the battle of Dalrey. The river Balvag, over
which are two bridges in good repair, rises in Lochvoil,
winds for several miles through the parish, and falls
into Lochlubnaig; and the small river Calair, which
issues from Glenbuckie, though generally a peaceful
stream, at times overflows its bauks, and acquires the
rapidity of a torrent. There are numerous lakes in the
parish, of which the principal are, Lochvoil, Lochdoine,
and parts of Lochlubnaig and Lochearn. The scenery
is also richly embellished with woods, consisting mostly
of oak, birch, alder, and common and mountain ash ;
and with thriving plantations, which are chiefly of Scotch
and spruce firs, and larch-trees, for all of which the
ground is well adapted.
The soil, in the lower lands, is fertile ; the hills afford
pasture, and there are considerable tracts of good mea-
dow ; the system of agriculture is improved, and great
attention is paid to the improvement of the breeds of
cattle and sheep ; the former are chiefly of the West
Highland breed, and the latter, which are of the black-
faced kind, command a ready sale in the neighbouring
markets. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£6100. The rocks are mainly of mica and clay slate,
with quartz, porphyry, and primitive greenstone. Edin-
ample Castle, the property of the Marquess of Breadal-
bane, an ancient mansion romantically situated, and
Glenbuckie House, a handsome modern residence, are
the only houses of distinction. The ecclesiastical affairs
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of
Dunblane and synod of Perth and Stirling ; the stipend
of the incumbent is £275. 15. 11.; the manse is a com-
fortable residence, and the glebe is of the annual value
of £20. The church, situated nearly in the centre of the
parish, is an ancient edifice, adapted for a congregation
of 425 persons. The parochial school affords a liberal
course of instruction ; the master has a salary of
£34. 4. 4|., with £S fees, a house, and two bolls of meal
in lieu of a garden. In a field near the manse, is an
upright stone, about five feet in height, called Puidrac ;
but nothing of its history is known ; and to the east of
99
it, is a spot celebrated as the site of a desperate battle
between the families of McLaren and Leney. The late
Sir John Mac Gregor Murray, Bart., an eminent Gaelic
scholar, and an indefatigable collector of the writings
of the ancient Gaelic bards, and who, holding the rank
of colonel in the British army, raised at his own ex-
pense a regiment of infantry for the service of his
country, which was commanded by his brother, Colonel
Alexander Mac Gregor Murray, was, together with his
brother, buried in the family vault in this parish.
BALTA, a small islet, in the parish of Unst, county
of Shetland. This is nearly the northernmost isle of
the Shetland range, and is situated in the latitude of
60° 4~' north, and on the east side of Unst island, the
sea between being called Balta Sound. Here the shore
of Unst forms a fine and safe inland harbour, stretch-
ing east to west about two miles, protected at its mouth
by the isle of Balta.
BALWAHANAID, a hamlet, in the parish of Weem,
county of Perth ; containing 23 inhabitants.
BALWHERNE, a hamlet, in the parish of Meth-
ven, county of Perth ; containing 60 inhabitants.
BANCHQRY-DEVENICK, a parish, partly within,
and partly without, the city of Aberdeen, district and
county of Aberdeen, but mostly in the county of Kin-
cardine ; including the villages of Downies, Findon,
and Purtlethen, and containing 2736 inhabitants. The
cognomen of Devenick, or Davenick, applied to this
place, is derived from a celebrated saint of the name of
Davenicus, who flourished about the year SS7, and who,
at one time, ministered in the district. The parish is
about 5 miles long, and 3 broad, and contains about
10,000 acres. The river Dee forms the northern boun-
dary of the Kincardineshire portion, and the parish is
bounded on the east by the parish of Nigg and by the
sea ; the coast extends about 3 miles, and is bold and
rocky, and, in many parts, picturesque. The surface is,
in general, rugged and stony, and to a considerable ex-
tent covered with heath ; the highest land is a part of
theTollow hill, the most easterly of the Grampian range,
the elevation of which was used for the trigonometrical
survey of the country. The Dee, which is the only river
connected with the district, rises among the highest
mountains of Aberdeenshire, and, after a course of
about 60 miles, passes along the extremity of the parish,
forming the line of separation between the counties of
Kincardine and Aberdeen ; it is here about 250 feet
wide, and falls into the hay of Aberdeen a mile and a
half below the eastern extremity of the parish. It is
subject to great floods, rising sometimes ten or eleven
feet above its usual level, in consequence of which, long
and expensive embankments have been raised, lor the
protection of the neighbouring lands.
The soil is diversified, running through all the va-
rieties, from pure alluvial to hard till, and from rich
loam to deep moss ; agriculture receives much attention,
though a large part of the ground is in its natural state,
and much remains yet to be done. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £6946. There are several plan-
tations, one of which covers 250 acres, but the proximity
of the land to the sea-coast is an impediment to the
growth of trees, as there is no shelter against the blight-
ing influence of the east wind. The rocks consist chiefly
of blue granite, which is abundant in the hilly part of
the parish ; but its texture is too hard to admit of its
02
BANC
BANC
being quarried to any extent, and the produce obtained
is used either for the roads, or sent for sale to the Lon-
don market. The parish is entirely rural, and its popu-
lation has been considerably increased, during the pre-
sent century, by the allotment of portions of uncultivated
land, with encouragement to small tenants, by which
means much waste ground has been reclaimed, and a con-
siderable number of persons that worked in the granite
quarries and peat-mosses of Aberdeen, brought into
this district. There are three harbours for fishing-boats
on the coast, named Findon, Portlethen, and Dow-
nies, to which belong about eighteen boats, chiefly
engaged in white-fishing, except during the herring-
season, at which time several of them are employed in
the Moray Frith. There are four stations for sal-
mon-fishing in the Dee, but they have been for some
years past in a low state, from the great scarcity of fish
in the river. The great road from Edinburgh to Aber-
deen runs through the parish, and, on the north side of
the Dee, the Deeside turnpike-road passes through the
Aberdeenshire division ; there is also a good commuta-
tion road along the south side of the river. A suspen-
sion bridge has been recently erected over the Dee, con-
necting the Aberdeenshire portion of the parish with the
church and school, and which cost about £1400, inde-
pendently of an embankment a quarter of a mile long,
on the south side, facilitating the approach to the bridge,
and which cost above £50.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject, to the pres-
bytery of Aberdeen and synod of Aberdeen ; the patron-
age is possessed by the Crown, and the minister's stipend
is £159- 2. 9., partly paid from the exchequer, with a
glebe valued at £13. 6. 8. per annum. The church,
which contains 900 sittings, was built in 1822, on the
site of a former edifice, the bell of which is marked
" 159/.'' At Portlethen is a chapel, containing 300
sittings, the minister of which, who has been duly or-
dained, has a stipend of £S0, partly from seat-rents :
this building, which is situated about 3^ miles from the
church, in a populous district, was a family chapel pre-
viously to the Reformation. Two places of worship in
connexion with the Free Church have been erected. A
parochial school is maintained, in which Latin is taught,
with the ordinary branches of education, and of which
the master has a salary of £30, a portion of the Dick
bequest, £20 fees, and £20 for teaching as many chil-
dren, the last amount being an endowment by a person
in India. There are three other schools, namely, one
at Portlethen, the master of which has the interest of
a benefaction of £200 ; a school upon the estate of
Cults, in the Aberdeenshire district, the master of which
receives £25 per annum from an endowment; and
a female school, built by a bequest of £100 from the
late Mr. George Hogg, whose father had been for many
years schoolmaster at Banchory, and endowed with
£200, half of which was allotted by the same bene-
factor, and half by the minister of the parish. A paro-
chial library has been founded, which has a considerable
number of volumes ; and a friendly society, and a
savings' bank established in 1822, and which is in a
very flourishing state, are supported. The antiquities
of the parish consist of two Druidical circles, in very
fine preservation ; and three very large tumuli, occu-
pying an elevated situation, on the north side of the
river.
100
BANCHORY-TERNAN, a parish, in the county of
Kincardine, 15 miles (N. W. by W.) from Stonehaven ;
containing, with the villages of Arbeadie and Banchory,
2241 inhabitants, of whom 66 are in Banchory. This
place, of which the name, signifying "a fine choir," has
reference to some ancient religious establishment, and its
adjunct most probably to its patron saint, is of very re-
mote antiquity. St. Terne, or Ternanus, who is said to
have been a native of Mearns, flourished about the middle
of the fifth century, and accompanied Palladius, in his
mission to the Irish Scots ; and by him he was ordained,
and commissioned to extirpate the Pelagian heresy, and to
establish the true faith among his own countrymen. In
this undertaking, his eminent success and sanctity of
life obtained for him a high degree of veneration, and
many churches were afterwards erected and dedicated
to his memory, among which was the church of this
parish. In 1562, a battle took place between the army
of Mary, Queen of Scots, under the Earl of Moray, and
the forces of the Earl of Huntly, at the How of Corri-
chie, a glen in the hills of Fare, towards the northern
boundary of the parish, in which the latter were de-
feated with great slaughter, and the Earl of Huntly,
who was taken prisoner, died before he was removed
from the field of battle. In the bottom of the glen are
several tumuli, raised over the bodies of the slain ; and
a recess among the rocks overlooking the glen, in which,
it is said, Mary witnessed the engagement, is still called
the Queen's chair. There are also numerous tumuli on
the north side of Glassel, where the chief carnage took
place. In 1644, the Duke of Montrose, having crossed
the river Dee, at a ford near the Mills of Drum, in this
parish, passed a night at the house of Leys, and next
day proceeded to Aberdeen, where he encountered and
defeated an army of the Covenanters ; and the remains
of his encampment on a subsequent occasion, on his
route to Strathbogie, not far from the How of'Corrichie,
are still pointed out, under the appellation of Montrose's
Dyke.
The parish is situated on the river Dee, which inter-
sects the southern portion of it, from west to east,
throughout its whole extent; it is nearly ten miles in
length, and about nine miles in breadth, of irregular
form, comprising an area of 21,600 acres, of which
rather more than 6000 are arable, 5230 woodland and
plantations, and the remainder, of which a considerable
portion might be brought into cultivation, meadow,
pasture, and waste. The surface is strikingly diversified
with hill and dale, and with wood and water. The hill
of Fare, on the north, has an elevation of 1793 feet ;
that of Kerloak, on the south, forming a part of the
Grampian range, and extending eastward to the sea at
Aberdeen, is 1S90 feet high; and between these, is a
lower ridge, of which the greatest elevation is not more
than 1000 feet. That portion of the parish which is on
the south side of the Dee, is intersected by the river
Feugh, and is richly wooded, and interspersed with
masses of barren and precipitous rock ; the scenery is
bold, enlivened with numerous rivulets, and embellished
with handsome mansions. At the eastern extremity
is Loch Drum, in the adjoining parish of Drumoak, which
has been nearly exhausted by draining ; and in the
central portion is Loch Leys, in which is an artificial
island, formed on piles of oak, with remains of ancient
houses that appear to have been fortified. The river
BANC
B A N F
Dee, which enters the parish near Trustach Hill, flows
through a rocky channel ; and its stream is divided by
two small islands, of which one, about eight acres in
extent, is covered with furze and heath, and the other,
of about one acre, and of greater elevation above the
surface, is planted with trees. The Feugh, after form-
ing various pleasing falls, divides into two channels,
which, reuniting, flow into the Dee, almost in the centre
of the parish ; it passes under a bridge of two arches near
its principal fall over a ledge of rock about twenty feet
in height.
The soil varies greatly in different parts, but is gene-
rally light, and not naturally fertile ; towards the river,
gravelly ; on the higher grounds, a strong loam : and
on the lower, a species of moss, intermixed with gravel.
The system of agriculture is improved ; the chief crops
are, oats, barley, and some wheat, with potatoes, tur-
nips, and hay, and the moorlands afford tolerable pas-
ture for sheep and cattle, to the improvement of which
much attention has been excited by the Deeside Agricul-
tural Association, which holds its annual meeting here,
and awards prizes, to the amount of £70, to the most
successful competitors at the show of cattle. The
dairy-farms are more carefully attended to than for-
merly ; the buildings are substantial and commodious,
and threshing-mills have been erected on most of the
farms. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£*479- The hills are principally of red granite, tra-
versed by veins of sulphate of barytes ; and limestone,
in some parts of coarse and inferior quality, and in
others compact and highly crystallized, is found in
abundance, and is extensively quarried on the lands of
Tilwhilly, for agricultural purposes. The plantations,
which are of very great extent, consist chiefly of pine
and larch, interspersed with birch, oak, beech, ash, and
a few other trees ; they are of comparatively modern
growth, and considerable additions have, within the last
few years, been made to the number of forest trees, of
which nearly 70,000 oaks have been planted on the
lands of Leys. On the road to Aberdeen, is a remark-
ably fine holly, of more than twenty stems, springing
from the crevices of a rock ; and in the grounds of
Crathes Castle, is a beech-tree, 25 feet in girth, and 60
feet high. Crathes Castle, a handsome baronial mansion,
erected about the year 1512, is finely situated on a
gentle acclivity, at the extremity of a rocky and richly-
wooded ridge, on the north bank of the Dee ; it is a
spacious structure, with a lofty square tower crowned by
embattled turrets, and many modern additions have
been made. The ancient hall is still entire, and contains
some family portraits, among which is a portrait of
Dr. Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Salisbury, by Sir God-
frey Kneller. The Castle of Tilwhilly, on the opposite
bank of the river, is an ancient massive building, in
the occupation of the tenant of the farm ; Banchory
Lodge, a few hundred yards from the church, was
erected by the late General Burnet ; Inchmarlo is a
handsome mansion, erected in 1800, and Glassel and
Raemoir are also good modern houses. The village of
Banchory, or the Kirktown, which was anciently a
burgh of barony, and is noticed, in 1324, as a place of
considerable importance, and in which was held the
baronial court of Leys, has almost disappeared ; and
only a few houses in the vicinity of the churchyard,
called the Town Head, are now remaining, and the
101
shaft of a broken stone cross. A small woollen-factory
has been established, and there are likewise two
bobbin factories carried on ; salmon is taken in the
Dee, but there is no regular fishery. Fairs, chiefly for
horses, cattle, and sheep, are held on the second Tuesday
in February, the last Thursday in March, the third Tues-
day in June, the first Tuesday in July, the second Tuesday
in August, and the first Wednesday in December.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil and
synod of Aberdeen ; Sir.T. Burnet, Bart., is patron, and
the minister's stipend is £2S7. 10. 9., with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £10 per annum. The church, rebuilt in
1S24, is a handsome structure in the later English
style, and contains 1300 sittings. A place of worship
has been erected in connexion with the Free Church ;
and in the village of Arbeadie, is a meeting-house for
Independents. There are three parochial schools, the
masters of which divide among them £51. 6. 6f., in
addition to a house and garden for each, and the fees
average respectively £20, £16, and £10 per annum. A
school was founded and endowed in 163S, by Sir Thomas
Burnet, in conjunction with Dr. Alexander Reid, and
is conducted by one of the parochial schoolmasters, who
derives an additional salary of £16 from the endowment.
A parochial library has also been established, which has
a collection of more than 400 volumes, chiefly on reli-
gious subjects. At Cairnton, on the hill of Trustach,
are some remains of an old intrenchment, now covered
with birch, about 150 yards square, defended by two
ramparts of earth, 300 yards in length, extending from
the inclosure in a converging direction, leaving an
opening of about twenty yards in width at their ex-
tremities ; it is supposed to have been a Roman camp.
Near Kerloak, are Druidical remains, consisting of three
circles of upright stones, nearly entire, the largest of
which is about 25 yards in diameter, and the others
about 15 yards; in each of them, are vestiges of an
inner circle inclosing a small cairn. Bishops Burnet
and Douglas, both of Salisbury, were descended from
families connected with this parish.
BANETON, or Baynton, a village, in the parish of
Kennoway, district of KiRKCALnY, county of Fife,
1 mile (N. N. E.) from Kennoway ; containing 204 in-
habitants. It is in the north-eastern portion of the
parish, and a little north of the road between Kennoway
and Cupar.
BANFF, a sea-port, burgh ,
market-town, and parish, in
the county of Banff, ofwhich
it is the chief town, 165 miles
(N. by E.) from Edinburgh,
WM on *ne roa0- from Aberdeen
|Jp to Inverness; containing3958
'iwW inhabitants. This place, called
in ancient records, Bainiffe.
Boineffe, &e., appears to have
derived its name from the
district in which it is situated,
and which obtained the ap-
pellation of Boyn from the Gaelic, signifying "a
stream," in reference to the river Boyn, by which it is
intersected. The town, previously to the middle of
the 16th century, was little more than a small fishing
village, and seems to have owed its origin to the founda-
Seal and Arms.
■'. o'-^
BANF
B A N F
tion of a Carmelite monastery, which was occasionally
the residence of some of the Scottish kings ; and to the
erection of a castle, governed by a thane, or constable,
who administered justice, and of which the only vestiges
now remaining are, a portion of the outer walls, and
the ditch by which it was surrounded. Few transac-
tions of historical importance occur with reference to
the place. In 1644, the lairds of Gight, Newtown, and
Ardlogie, with a party of horse and foot, made an
irruption into the town, and levied exactions upon the
bailies, in the absence of the provost, who had taken
flight, and compelled them and the townsmen to abjure
the covenant, and to acknowledge submission to the
king and his deputies, as formerly. In the following
year, the Marquess of Montrose entered the town with
a hostile force, plundered the inhabitants, and burnt
several of their houses, in compensation for which losses,
they obtained, on their petition to parliament, a grant
of their own excise. In 1746, the Duke of Cumberland's
troops, on their march to Culloden, passed through the
town, burnt the episcopal chapel, and hanged one of the
inhabitants, whom they suspected of being a spy ; and
in 1759, a French fleet, under the command of Thurot,
appeared off the coast ; but the apprehensions of the
inhabitants were relieved by the dispersion of their
vessels in a storm, before the enemy attempted to effect
alanding. A battery of eighteen and twenty-four pounders
was subsequently erected, on the heights immediately
above the harbour, at an expense of £400, defrayed by
the inhabitants; but, soon after the peace, it was dis-
mounted, and the cannon returned to the government,
by whom they had been supplied.
The town consists of two portions, detached from
each other, one of which, constituting the port, stands
on an elevated level, terminating abruptly towards the
Moray Frith, and having the battery at its northern
extremity. Between this and the other portion, which
is partly on the plain, and partly on the declivity
of the bank of the river Doveran, is the present castle,
a plain modern building, occupying an elevated site, and
commanding the sweep of the river, with the fine slope
on the opposite side, surmounted with the woods of
Mounteoffer. The streets are regular and spacious, and
the houses, though unequal in size, are in general neatly
built ; most of the older houses have been taken down,
and rebuilt in a modern style, and the town retains few
indications of its real antiquity. The streets are lighted
with gas, by a joint-stock company established in 1831 ;
and the inhabitants are supplied with water, conveyed
into the town by pipes laid down in 1810, at an expense
of £1100, and by pumps attached to several of the
houses. Hot, cold, and shower baths, fitted up with
every accommodation, have lately been established, by
a company ; and in connexion with a literary society
founded in 1810, and which has a library of 2000
volumes, is a reading-room, well supplied with news-
papers and the most popular periodical prints. An
institution for the cultivation of science and the en-
couragement of native talent, was founded in 1S28, and
has collected a museum of natural history, antiquities,
and curiosities, among which is a very extensive collec-
tion of the most beautiful shells found in Java and in
the Eastern Archipelago. A room in the town-hall is
appropriated, by the magistrates, to the use of the
literary society.
102
A principal trade of the port is the herring-fishery,
which, within the last thirty years, has been established
on the shores of the Frith, with considerable success,
and is still very prosperous. The quantity of fish cured
in the district of Banff, which extends from Gardens-
town to Portsoy, is, in favourable seasons, about 30,000
barrels, of which one-half is sent to Germany, a con-
siderable quantity to London, and the remainder to Ire-
land. The number of herring-boats from the port of
Banff alone, has fluctuated exceedingly, and is at pre-
sent very much reduced, probably from the want of
room near the harbour, for the erection of the requisite
buildings, and from the higher rate of dues; but the
general trade of the district is still flourishing. Cod,
ling, and turbot are found in abundance, off the coast,
and, if prosecuted with spirit, might add greatly to the
trade of the port ; and lobsters, crabs, shrimps, and
other fish are brought to the markets, but only for home
consumption, though the bay abounds with shrimps,
which might be made a profitable branch of trade. The
salmon-fishery in the river Doveran, which is the pro-
perty of Lord Fife, is let for £1600 per annum, and
there is, on each side of the estuary, a fishery in the
open sea, of which one is let by the corporation for
£191 per annum ; the salmon are sent, either packed
in ice, or pickled, principally to the London market.
A very considerable trade is also carried on in the ex-
portation of grain, live cattle, and cured pork; and in
the importation of coal, groceries, and other commodities.
During a recent year, 29,790 quarters of oats, 1174
quarters of wheat, 976 quarters of barley and bear, and
194 bags of potatoe-flour, w:ere shipped from the port,
chiefly for London and Leith ; and 440 head of live
cattle, 911 pigs, and 156 sheep and lambs, for the Lon-
don market alone. The trade in cattle has since greatly
increased; and in 1S41, not less than 179*2 head of
cattle were sent to London. The number of vessels
registered at Banff, as the head of the district, is sixty-
seven, of the aggregate burthen of 4301 tons; of these,
ten schooners of S78 tons, and eleven sloops of 657 tons
aggregate burthen, belong to this port, and the remain-
der to the- several creeks of Fraserburgh, Gardenstown,
Macduff, Portsoy, Port-Gordon, and Garmouth. Seve-
ral of these vessels make voyages to Sweden, for iron
and deals ; to Prussia, for hemp ; and to Holland, for
flax ; and, in the autumn, frequently to Hamburgh
and Stettin, with cargoes of herrings, bringing in return
grain, wool, bark, and hides.
The harbour is situated at the western extremity of
a circular bay, at the opposite extremity of which are
the town and harbour of Macduff; both these extremi-
ties are rocky, and between them is a beach of sand.
The old or inner harbour, completed in 1775, was
formed by two piers and the land, inclosing a triangular
area, having at the angle towards the north-north-east,
an entrance which, in 18 16, was protected by a new
pier and breakwater, forming a basin, or outer harbour,
to the north of the former. This addition, which was
made under the superintendence of the late Mr. Telford,
at an expense of £18,000, one-half of which was de-
frayed by government, though not productive of all the
benefit expected from it, as ships have since been wrecked
in the new basin, has still materially diminished the
swell in the old harbour, now one of the safest in the
Moray Frith, and has afforded additional facilities for
B A N F
BANF
the entrance and departure of vessels. A vessel draw-
ing 12 feet water can enter the new basin, at high-
water of neap tides, and one drawing 15 feet, at
spring tides ; and vessels drawing respectively S and
10§ feet water, may enter the old harbour at high-water
of neap and spring tides. A patent slip, on Morton's
principle, has been constructed in the harbour. Ship-
building is occasionally carried on, and there is a small
manufactory for ropes and sails, chiefly for home use ;
the thread and stocking manufacture, formerly pursued
here, has been discontinued for some years. A public
brewery, erected on the high ground above the harbour,
was once conducted on a large scale, but, of late, has
been confined to the supply of the immediate neighbour-
hood : a distillery at the Mill of Banff, about a mile
from the town, produces on an average from 11,000 to
12,000 gallons of proof spirits annually. A foundry for
machinery, grates, ploughshares, and various kinds of
cast-metal work, was established about fifteen years
since, by Messrs. Fraser, and affords employment to ten
men ; the works are set in motion by a steam-engine of
six-horse power, constructed by the proprietors. The
market is on Friday, and is well supplied with fish of
every kind ; there are no cattle-markets, and, though
by charter the inhabitants are allowed seven or eight
fairs, only four are held, and of these, the Whit-
sun-fair alone is of any consideration. Coaches pass
daily to and from Aberdeen and Elgin, and to and from
Peterhead.
From a grant of a toft and garden in the burgh, by
William the Lion, in 1165, to his chaplain, Douglas,
Bishop of Moray, the town appears to have been pre-
viously a royal burgh ; and, according to tradition, it
received from Malcolm Canmore, those privileges which
were ratified by Robert Bruce, and subsequently, in
13/2, by Robert II., who also conferred upon the inha-
bitants liberties equal to those of Aberdeen, which were
afterwards confirmed by James VI. and Charles II.
The government is vested in a provost, four bailies, a
dean of guild, a treasurer, and ten councillors, all elected
by the £10 constituency; the corporation revenue is
about £1200. The taxes and assessments for the burgh,
however, are not imposed as in other burghs, by the
magistrates and council, but by the inhabitants them-
selves, assembled in a special court for that purpose.
The affairs of police are under the management of com-
missioners, who are elected in accordance with the pro-
visions of a particular act of parliament, and by whose
authority the police rates are levied and expended. No
one could formerly carry on business without becoming a
member of the merchant-guildry of Banff, or of the
incorporated trades, of which there are six, namely, the
hammermen, wrights, shoemakers, tailors, coopers, and
weavers, who all claim exclusive privileges. The town
is classed with Elgin, Cullen, Inverury, Kintore, and
Peterhead, in returning a member to the imperial par-
liament ; and under the Reform act, the constituency
includes the qualified voters in the neighbouring, and
otherwise independent, burgh of Macduff. The town-
hall, a spacious but plain building, erected within the
last sixty years, occupies two sides of a quadrangle,
with a tower at the external angle, of older date,
surmounted by a spire of graceful proportion, together
100 feet high ; the building is of hewn stone, three stories
in height, and contains a hall, two large drawing-rooms,
103
a council-chamber, a court-room for the sheriff's court,
oflices for the chamberlain and sheriff clerks, and the
prisons for the burgh. The old prison contained two
apartments, each nineteen feet square, for the reception
of civil prisoners ; and two cells for criminals; but they
were badly arranged, and totally inadequate for the pur-
pose of classification. The new jail, by which the old
one has been superseded, is on the best principles.
The parish, which formed part of that of Boyndie
till 1634, is about six miles and a half in length, and
two miles and a half in breadth in the centre, from
which, towards each extremity, it diminishes materially ;
comprehending about 6312 acres, of which 3778 are
good arable land, 1161 uncultivated and in pasture,
and about 220 wood. It is bounded on the east by the
river Doveran, which has its source on the confines of
the counties of Aberdeen and Banff, and falls into
the sea at the town ; and on the west, by the burn of
Boyndie, by which it is separated from the parish of
that name. Over the former of these rivers, situated
close to the town, is a substantial stone bridge of
seven semicircular arches, erected at the expense of
government, in 1779; and over the latter, are two stone
bridges, of two arches each. The surface is very un-
even, rising, in the lower part of the parish, from 200 to
300 feet above the sea, and forming an eminence called
the Callow Mill; and in the upper part of the parish,
are eminences of much greater elevation, though less
raised above the surface of the adjacent lands. The
system of agriculture is improved ; and within the last
forty years, a large tract of land, previously in pas-
ture, has been brought under tillage. Draining has also
been carried on to a very considerable extent, and the
greater portion of the land is inclosed with fences of
stone ; the farm-houses and offices are generally well
built, and many of them afford superior accommodations.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £12,SS9, in-
cluding £6977 for the burgh. The substrata are chiefly
clay-slate and greywacke. At Cairn of Ord, in the
south-western part of the parish, is found granite, which,
in some places, rises to the surface ; it is of excellent
quality for building, and has been quarried for that pur-
pose, but, on account of its distance from the sea, it has
not been worked to any great extent. The scenery is,
in several parts, pleasing, and in others romantic and
picturesque : the rher Doveran, on its first entering the
parish, winds into a rocky glen, of which the steep sides,
crowned with luxuriant wood, are connected by a cir-
cular arch of stone ; beyond this point, the glen gradu-
ally expands into an open valley, round the eastern side
of which the river forms a graceful curve, inclosing the
plain on which Duff House is situated. The road from
Aberdeen winds round the verge of a verdant hill, on
the extremity of which, sloping towards the sea, and
stretching into the bay, is the town of Macduff; and on
the western side, near the bend of the river, rises a pre-
cipitous bank, on the summit of which is seen the
mausoleum of the Duff family, embosomed in shelter-
ing woods, and, near it, a funereal urn containing some
human bones that were found on the spot, which was
formerly the cemetery of the Carmelite monastery.
Duff House, the splendid residence of the Earl of Fife,
occupies the grounds formerly belonging to the monas-
tery, which were, in 1630, conveyed to Lord Airlie, and,
in 1690, to Lord Fife, who, in 1752, purchased the supe-
BAN F
B A N F
riority, which had been granted by James VI. to King's
College, Aberdeen. The mansion was erected about the
middle of the last century, by Lord Braco, after a de-
sign by Adams, the first architect of that name, at an
expense of £/0,000; it is a spacious quadrilateral struc-
ture of freestone, in the Roman style of architecture,
and contains a choice collection of paintings of the
Flemish and Italian schools, and numerous portraits by
the most eminent masters. The demesne is richly
planted, and comprehends much interesting scenery ;
and, from many points, commands extensive and varied
prospects.
The parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery
of Fordyce and synod of Aberdeen; the minister's
stipend is £245. 19. 9., with a manse, and the glebe is
valued at £45 ; patron, the Earl of Seafield. The church,
situated on the south side of the town, is a plain struc-
ture, erected in 1790, and is capable of containing 1500
persons ; the interior is chastely decorated, and has some
handsome monuments of marble, one of which, by Bacon,
representing a soldier weeping over a funereal vase, is
finely executed, and was erected by Sir David Ochterlony,
and thearmyunder his command, to the memory ofLieut.-
Col. Lawtie, a native of this place. A chapel in con-
nexion with the Established Church, for a district includ-
ing the more remote portion of the parish and others
adjoining, and a manse, have recently been erected, at the
upperendof the parish, at an expenseof £600; the stipend
of the minister is derived from the seat-rents, augmented
with £20 Royal bounty. There are places of worship for
members of the Free Church, Episcopalians, members
of the United Secession, Independents, and Wesleyans,
and a Roman Catholic chapel. A grammar school was
founded in 17S6, under the direction of Dr. Chapman,
formerly rector of the grammar school of Dumfries ;
the number of boys usually attending is about 170, and
the rector, who is obliged to employ two qualified assist-
ants, has a considerable salary from the funds of the
town. This school is endowed with funds, the interest
of which is regularly appropriated to the maintenance of
sixteen bursaries ; one, in the gift of the presbytery of
Fordyce, is worth about £30, and the others are from
£2 to £3 per annum. A free school was founded by
Mr. Alexander Pirie, who, in 1804, bequeathed to the
town-council and kirk-session £1100 for that purpose,
with a tenement, and £100 for the erection of a school-
house and house for the master. Mr. George Smith, a
native of Fordyce, by will dated at Bombay, in 1769,
vested in the magistrates of Banff, the residue of his
estate, amounting to £10,297. 16. 6., of which he appro-
priated £1000 to the endowment of an infirmary in this
town or at Fordyce, and £40 per annum to a school-
master, to educate as many boys of the name of Smith
as the funds would maintain, at £25 per annum each ;
the dividends, amounting to £308. 18. 8., are applied ac-
cording to the will, and nine boys are maintained and
educated. Mr. James Wilson, of Grenada, vested the
whole of his stock, after the decease of certain annui-
tants, in the magistrates of Banff, to be appropriated to
charitable purposes, according to their discretion ; this
estate, which ultimately produced £3561. 16. 1. three
per cents, and £2647 in cash, was appropriated to the
erection of an infant school, a free school on the
Madras system, and class-rooms for the grammar school
teachers, with a library and museum. Mr. Alexander
104
Cassy, a native of the town, then resident in Pentonville,
in 1S19, bequeathed the residue of his estates to the
magistrates, to be appropriated to the half-yearly relief
of aged and infirm persons and helpless orphans ; of
this property, £10,000 three per cents have already
fallen into the disposal of the trustees, who apply the
dividends. Miss Elizabeth Wilson, in 1825, bequeathed
to trustees the whole property of svhich she should die
possessed, the produce to be appropriated to six poor
tradesmen and six poor maidens ; the annuitants receive
from £9 to £10 each per annum. Alexander Chal-
mers, Esq., of Cluny, in 1 834, bequeathed property
which will amount to £40,000, in trust, to the lord-
lieutenant and member for the county, the minister and
magistrates of Banff, and others, for the erection and
endowment of an hospital and dispensary, to be called
Chalmers' Hospital, for the county of Banff; the hos-
pital to be erected on the site of the residence of the
founder.
Scarcely any vestiges of the ancient Carmelite monas-
tery are remaining ; some arches, apparently parts of
cells, are still to be traced in the yard of the inn called
the Royal Oak, and near the foundry is a vaulted cham-
ber, now occupied by the boiler of the steam-engine be-
longing to that establishment. A portion of the build-
ing occupied by Sir George Ogilvy, afterwards Lord
Banff, and which appears to have been regarded as a
palace, from the occasional visits to it by the Scottish
kings, was destroyed, in 1640, by General Monroe,
who, having marched into the town, encamped in the
gardens of that house, which he totally destroyed, car-
rying away the timber and iron-work, and leaving only
the shattered walls, a heap of ruins. That part of the
town which is called the Sea-town, is supposed to occupy
the lands of the chapel of the Holy Rood ; and another
chapel, dedicated to St. Thomas, is thought to have
stood somewhere between the site of the parish church
and St. Andrew's chapel. The Knights Templars an-
ciently had a preceptory in the town ; their possessions
were erected into a lordship, in favour of Sir John
Sandilands, in 1563, and several small and scattered
portions of their lands appear to have passed into bur-
gage tenures. The old castle of Inchdrewer, erected
about the time of James IV. or V., is still so entire as
to be habitable, and is now in the occupation of a tenant ;
it is chiefly memorable for the death of a lord of Banff,
who was burnt in it in 1713, under circumstances that
have never been fully explained. Adjoining the mauso-
leum of Lord Fife, is an ancient monument, on which
is the recumbent figure of an armed warrior, with the
inscription, " Hie jacet Johannes Duff, de Maldavat, et
Baldavi ; obiit, 2 Julii, 1404:" this monument, with
the ashes of the deceased, was brought from Cullen.
James Sharp, Archbishop of St. Andrew's, who was
waylaid and assassinated, was born at Banff Castle,
in 1613.
BANFFSHIRE, a maritime county, in the north-east
part of Scotland, bounded on the north by the Moray
Frith ; on the east and south-east, by Aberdeenshire ;
and on the west, by the counties of Moray and Inver-
ness. It lies between 57° 5' and 57° 43' (N. lat.) and
2° 17' and 3° 37' (W. long.), and is about fifty miles in
length, and varying from twenty miles to three miles in
breadth ; it comprises an area of about 647 square miles,
or 414,080 acres, and contains 11,149 inhabited houses,
B A N F
BANN
and a population of 49,679, of whom 23,249 are males,
and 26,430 females. This county, which includes the
districts of Boyne, Enzie, Strath- Doveran, Strathaven,
Balvenie, and part of Buchan, was a sheriffdom in the
reign of David I., and, previously to the Reformation,
was included in the diocese of Moray ; it is now partly
in the synod of Moray, and partly in that of Aberdeen,
and comprises several presbyteries, and twenty-four
parishes. It contains the royal burghs of Banff and
Cullen, of which the former is the county town, and
several thriving and populous villages, whereof the chief
are, Keith, Newmill, Gardenstown, Dufftown, Buckie,
Portsoy, and Macduff: under the act of the 2nd of
William IV., the county returns one member to the
imperial parliament.
The surface is beautifully diversified with mountains
and vales, and the scenery enriched with woods and
plantations, and enlivened with rivers and lakes. The
principal mountains are, the Cairngorm, which has an
elevation of more than 4000 feet above the sea ; Ben-
mackdhuie : Belrinnes, rising from the river Spey to the
height of 2/47 feet ; Knockhill, near the north termi-
nation of the Grampian range, the Buck of Cabrach, and
others, about 2500 feet high. The chief vales are,
those of Strath-Doveran and Strathaven, the former
branching off to the right, and the latter to the left,
from the forest of Glenavon ; Glcn-Livet ; and Glen-
Fiddich, which last extends to the strath of Balvenie.
The rivers are, the Spey, which has its source in Loch
Spey, and, after a long course, falls into the Moray Frith
near Fochabers ; the Doveran, which rises in the hills
of Cabrach ; the Avon ; the Livet ; and the Isla ; with
countless smaller streams, which turn numerous mills.
The salmon-fisheries on the Spey and Doveran are ex-
tensive, the former yielding a rental of £6000, and the
latter of £2000 per annum. The coast, which extends for
nearly thirty miles, is bold and rocky, and, in some parts,
precipitous ; and is much indented with small bays.
The soil, near the sea, is rich ; in the valleys, luxu-
riantly fertile ; and in the mountainous districts, affords
tolerable pasturage ; the moors abound with game.
Nearly one-half of the land is under cultivation ; the
system of agriculture is in a highly improved state, and
much waste has been inclosed and rendered profitable.
The rateable annual value of the county is £116,968.
The natural woods and plantations are extensive and
well managed, and there are numerous oaks and firs of
extraordinary dimensions ; the chief minerals are iron-
stone and lead-ore, and there are some fine quarries of
limestone, freestone, gneiss, and granite. The best
seats are, Gordon Castle, Glenfiddich, Duff House, Ro-
thiemay, Banff Castle, Balvenie Castle, Cullen House,
Birkenbog, Forglen, Troup, Arndilly, Baldorney, Edin-
garth, and Kinnairdy. The principal manufacture is
that of linen ; there are several tanneries, some distil-
leries, and other works in connexion with the shipping,
which is confined chiefly to the ports of Banff, Macduff,
Portsoy, and Gardenstown. The herring-fishery is also
very extensive, and is prosecuted along the coasts with
great industry and success. Facility of intercourse has
been greatly promoted by many excellent roads, con-
structed by commissioners appointed under an act of
parliament ; and the bridges over the different streams
are kept in good order. There are numerous cairns,
tumuli, ruins of ancient castles, and other monuments
Vol. I. — 105
of antiquity, all noticed in the respective articles on the
localities in which they are situated.
BANKEND, a village, in the parish of Caerlave-
iiocK, county of Dumfries, | a mile (S.) from Caerla-
verock ; containing 189 inhabitants. It lies in the
eastern portion of the parish, and on the west side of the
river Locher, which separates it from the parish of
Ruthwell.
BANKFOOT, a village, in the parish of Auchter-
gaven, county of Perth ; containing 76O inhabitants.
This village, which takes its name from its situation at the
base of an elevated ridge, on the road from Perth to Dun-
keld, is of very recent origin, having been wholly built on
lands leased for that purpose, by Mr. Wylie. The houses
are neatly built, and chief!}' inhabited by persons em-
ployed in weaving for the manufacturers of the neigh-
bouring towns, and in various trades. A daily post has
been established, which forwards letters to Perth ; and
facility of intercourse is maintained by good roads, kept
in repair by statute labour. There is a considerable trade
in coal, for the supply of the parts of the parish adja-
cent. A subscription library was opened in 1822, under
the direction of a committee of subscribers ; the collec-
tion consists of about 300 volumes, on theological, his-
torical, and literary subjects. There are places of wor-
ship for members of the United Secession and the Relief
Synod.
BANKHEAD, lately a quoad sacra district, in the
parish of Midmar, district of Kincardine O'Neil,
county of Aberdeen, 4 miles from Leggerdale. It is
about a mile north of the road from Aberdeen to Tar-
land, and two miles south of that to Alford ; the soil of
the district is generally light, and far from being pro-
ductive. The population is chiefly engaged in agricul-
ture ; and the females employ themselves, to a large
extent, in stocking-weaving. The ecclesiastical affairs
are under the superintendence of the synod of Aber-
deen and presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil, and the
election of the minister is vested in the communi-
cants. The church is a plain substantial building,
erected in 1S32, by subscription of the members and
others, and is seated for 300 persons ; it stands in the
north-western part of the parish of Midmar, adjoining
the parishes of Kincardine O'Neil and Cluny. In the
vicinity are a few Druidical remains and Pictish en-
campments, but none of them are of sufficient import-
ance to require a particular description.
BANKHEAD, a hamlet, in the parish of Monikie,
county of Forfar, 4 miles (W. by N.) from Monikie ;
containing 56 inhabitants.
BANKTON-PARK, a village, in the parish of Ket-
tle, district of Cupar, county of Fife, £ a mile (S.)
from Kettle; containing 136 inhabitants. It is plea-
santly situated on the road from Cupar to Leslie, and
consists of neat houses of modern erection.
BANNOCKBURN, lately a quoad sacra parish, in-
cluding the village of Bannockburn, in the parish of St.
Ninian's, county of Stirling ; containing 3176 inha-
bitants, of whom 2206 are in the village, 2 miles (S. S.
E.) from Stirling, on the road to Falkirk. Most of the
inhabitants are employed in manufacturing tartans,
shawls, and carpets, and here are very extensive eoal-
works, producing a material of the best quality, which
is sent in large quantities to most of the surrounding
districts ; there is also a tan-work for preparing foreign
P
B A R L
B A R R
skins, as well as those from the country around, A
post-office is established under Stirling, and fairs are
held in June and October. The small river Bannock,
running on the western border, gives name to this
place, which is celebrated in history as the scene of the
decisive battle between Robert Bruce and Edward
II., when the Scots obtained a signal victory, Edward
and the English being completely routed ; and about a
mile from the village, on the I lth of June, 1488, was
fought the field of Stirling, or battle of Sauchie, between
James III. and the confederate lords, wherein that
monarch lost the field and his life. A church, contain-
ing 900 sittings, was opened in October 1838; there
is also a place of worship for members of the United
Secession.
BANTON, lately a quoad sacra parish, forming part
of the parish of Kilsyth, in the county of Stirling ;
containing 964 inhabitants, of whom 130 are in the vil-
lage of Banton, 3 miles (N. E.) from Kilsyth. This
district, which includes the village of Auchinmully,
and is five miles long, is situated in the east barony
of the parish, and is inhabited principally by colliers
and miners, employed at the neighbouring works. A
church has been erected, with accommodation for above
400 persons, by subscription and a grant from the
General Assembly's Church Extension Committee ; and
a school and master's house, erected in 1771, have been
rebuilt on an improved plan, at an expense of £320,
wholly defrayed by voluntary contributions. There is
also a subscription library, opened in 1835, and which
contains about 200 volumes.
BARA, Haddington. — See Garvald.
BARACHNIE, a village, in the parish of Old
Monkland, forming part of the late quoad sacra parish
of Crosshill, Middle ward of the county of Lanark,
3| miles (E.) from Glasgow ; containing 235 inhabit-
ants. This place is situated on the road from Glasgow
to Airdrie, a short distance from Bailiestone Toll, and on
the borders of Barony parish. In the vicinity are ex-
tensive coal-works.
BARBARAVILLE, a village, in the parish of Kil-
mtjir Easter, county of Ross and Cromarty; con-
taining 173 inhabitants.
BARBASWALLS, a hamlet, in the parish of Ruth-
ven, county of Forfar ; containing 36 inhabitants.
It is situated on the borders of Airlie parish, a little to
the south of the road between Blairgowrie and Kirrie-
muir; and the river Isla flows eastward of the hamlet.
BARHILL, a small hamlet, in the parish of Col-
monell, district of Carrick, county of Ayr, 12 miles
(S. S. E.) from Girvan. This place, which is of very
recent origin, is situated on the river Dhuisk, and on
the road from Girvan to Newton-Stewart ; cattle-markets
are held on the fourth Friday in April, September, and
October (O. S.), and are attended by numerous dealers
from the adjoining districts.
BARJARG, a hamlet, in the parish of Keir, county
of Dumfries ; containing 58 inhabitants. It lies near
the river Nith, on the east side of the parish, about two
miles and a half south from the village church, and on
the road between Penport and Dumfries.
BARLEYSIDE, a village, in the parish of Falkirk,
county of Stirling, 3 miles (S. by W.) from Falkirk ;
containing 92 inhabitants. It is situated near the
western boundary of the parish of Polmont.
106
BARN-YARDS, a village, in the parish of Kilcon-
qtjhar, district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife ; con-
taining 232 inhabitants. It adjoins the village of Kil-
conquhar, which lies to the north of Elie, and of which,
although it retains a separate name, it may now be said
to form a part.
BARNH1LL, a hamlet, in the parish of Monifieth,
county of Forfar; containing 41 inhabitants. It lies
a little south of the high road between Dundee and
Arbroath.
BARNHILL, a village, in the parish of Blantyre,
Middle ward of the county of Lanark, \ a mile (N.)
from Blantyre ; containing 165 inhabitants. It is near
the eastern boundary of Cambuslang parish.
BARN WEILL, county of Ayr. — See Craigie.
BARONY, county of Lanark.— See Glasgow.
BARR, a parish, in the district of Carrick, county
of Ayr, S miles (E. S. E.) from Girvan ; containing 959
inhabitants, of whom about 230 are in the village. This
place is supposed to have derived its name from the
almost inaccessible site of the ancient village, surrounded
on all sides by rugged hills of precipitous elevation, and
only to be approached by a narrow wild glen, frequently
impassable from the swelling of a small stream which
intersects it, and which, in winter, attains the violence
of a torrent. The parish, which formed a natural
barrier between the counties of Ayr and Galloway, was
included in the parishes of Girvan and Dailly till the
year 1653, when it was erected into a parish of itself;
it comprises nearly 70,000 acres, of which only 1200
are arable, and not more than 1000 capable of being
rendered profitable. The surface is mostly an extensive
level, with various ridges of different elevation, two of
which rise from the banks of the river Stinchar, to the
height of nearly 1200 feet ; and a third, in a direction
nearly parallel to these, on the south-east, is about 1400
feet above the sea. Another range, forming part of
that chain of mountainous heights stretching from Ayr-
shire into Galloway, has an elevation of nearly 2700
feet. The chief rivers are, the Stinchar, which has its
source in this parish, and, taking a south-westerly
course, falls into the sea at Ballantrae ; and the Min-
noch, which, rising in the highest ridge of hills, flows
southward through the lands, and falls into the river
Cree, which separates this parish from the county of
Galloway. The. Stinchar, in its course of nearly fifteen
miles through the parish, forms a beautiful cascade of
about thirty feet ; and most of the smaller burns with
which the parish abounds, in their several courses, fall
from heights, with various degrees of beauty. There
are numerous lakes of different extent, varying in- depth
from six to fifteen feet, all of which afford trout of a
dark colour, and also yellow trout ; the scenery is dreary,
from the want of wood, of which there is scarcely any in
the parish.
The soil, in the lower lands, is of very fair quality,
and in the high lands principally moss ; the chief crops
are, grain of all kinds, and potatoes. Surface-draining
has been extensively practised, and the grounds are
partially inclosed, but improvement in the system of
husbandry, from the want of good roads and facilities
of drawing lime, is greatly retarded. Attention is paid
to the management of the dairy, and a moderate number
of milch cows, mostly of the Ayrshire breed, have been
introduced ; but the main dependence of the farmer is
B A R It
BARK
on the rearing of cattle and sheep, for which the hills
provide tolerable pasturage. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £7578. The few trees indigenous to
the soil, are ash and alder ; and the plantations, which
are on a very limited scale, are larch, interspersed with
oak and ash, which seem to thrive well. The substrata
are chiefly conglomerate rock, which appears in very
irregular masses, and limestone of good quality, which
is slightly wrought ; in that portion of it that lies
near the bed of the river, some fine specimens of fossil
shells are found. Slate-quarries have been also opened,
but have not been wrought to any extent. The village,
which is neatly built, has a post-office, established under
Girvan ; and fairs are held annually, but very little
business is transacted, and, from the want of good
roads, little facility of intercourse is afforded with the
surrounding district. The parish is in the presbytery
of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and patronage
of the Crown; the minister's stipend is £231. 3. 1.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £1S per annum.
The church, an ancient edifice, is in good repair, and
bad a gallery added in 1S34; it is adapted for a con-
gregation of 410 persons. A place of worship has been
erected in connexion with the Free Church. The paro-
chial school is well conducted ; the master's salary is
£34. 4. 4|., with £18 fees, and a house and garden. A
parochial library has been established, which has a col-
lection of nearly 200 volumes. There are some remains
of a chapel called Kirk Dominaj, and on the rising-
ground near its site, is a well, to which is an approach
through an ancient and well-built archway. This chapel
was in tolerable preservation till the year 1653, when
the roof was taken off, and placed on the parish church.
Viscount Stair, well known as ambassador of George
II., at the court of France, in 1720, was born in the
parish.
BAR.RA, a parish and island, in the county of In-
verness ; including the islands of Bernera, Fladda,
Fuday, Helesay, Mingala, Pabba, Sandra, and Watersay ;
and containing 2363 inhabitants, of whom 1977 are in
the island of Barra. The word Barra is supposed by
some to be formed of Bar, a point or top, and Ay or i", an
island, and to have been applied to this place in refer-
ence to its position in the great group to which it be-
longs, it being the most southerly or head of the larger
islands among the Hebrides. But its etymology is more
generally traced to St. Barr, the tutelary saint to whom
the principal place of worship, called Killbar, was dedi-
cated, and whose reputation was here so great, that his
anniversary has been celebrated for ages, on the 25th of
September, and is still regularly observed with morning
ceremonies at the chapel, and afternoon festivities at
Killbar, by the inhabitants, most of whom are Roman
Catholics. The island of Barra, and the islands surround-
ing it, have been from time immemorial the property of
the Macneils, who are said to have been in possession of
them before the Danish invasion, and to have been the
first of that name who came from Ireland. This family,
by their great power, and particularly their skill in
maritime affairs, gave great annoyance to all their neigh-
bours, carrying their depredations into every part of the
Western Islands ; and one of them, called Resary an
Tartair, or " the noisy or troublesome Roderick," sig-
nalized himself especially by his piracies, but was at
length captured for an attack on one of Queen Eliza-
107
beth's ships ; great skill and ingenuity, in consequence
of a reward offered, having been employed to effect his
apprehension. The seat of the family was Kismull
Castle, stili in good preservation, situated in the centre
of a bay, and on a small rock which is covered at high
water; the structure is of irregular figure, about sixty
feet high, with a square tower at one corner, the whole
strongly built, and surrounded by spots for the anchor-
age of small vessels. It was the residence of the lairds
of Barra till the beginning of the last century, about
which time it ceased to be inhabited.
The parish consists of more than twenty islands,
about half of them uninhabited, and serving only as
grazing stations, and was disjoined from that of South
Uist in 1733. It is situated at the south-western ex-
tremity of the Hebrides, and measures in length, from
Scirrival, the most northerly point of the main island,
to Bernera, the most southerly island, about twenty-
eight miles, including the several intervening channels ;
and comprises about 22,000 acres, of which 3922 are
under cultivation, 1540 sandy waste, 16,139 hill pasture,
and the remainder moss. The currents run with great
rapidity and violence through the channels, of which,
that on the north is six miles across, separating Barra
from South Uist. On the east, are the islands of Canna
and Rum, distant twenty-six miles; those of Coll and
Tiree, on the south, are thirty miles off, and on the west
is the Atlantic Ocean, which, at the blowing of the south-
west wind, rolls its waves with such impetuosity and
fury, that they not only drive large quantities of sand
over the islands, but render intercourse between them
quite impossible. The shore is indented with nume-
rous fissures and creeks, and pierced with many arms
of the sea, and on the wrest, with the exception of
two or three sandy inlets and bays, is thickly set with
rocks, a huge barrier of which, broken in several parts
into frightful chasms by the constant action of the sea,
rises majestically against its tremendous waves, and
supplies a powerful rampart to check its fury. On the
east, the coast is in general rocky, with some inter-
vening portions of heath, moss, and sand ; and in this
part are the principal bays, which form excellent and
safe harbours, and among which are those of Bayhierava,
Uilevay, Castlebay, Watersaybay, Fladda Sound, and
Ottirvore. The chief headland is Barra Head, on the
island of Bernera, where a very superior lighthouse has
lately been erected. This island, and the contiguous one
of Mingala, are particularly distinguished for the height
of their rocks, and for their grand and romantic scenery,
heightened in its effect by the numberless sea-fowl that
frequent them throughout the summer. Barra, the
largest island, is about twelve miles long, and from three
to six miles broad, and is broken, especially on the
eastern side, by many bays and arms of the sea. It has
a rocky barren aspect at a distance, but, upon a nearer
approach, its appearance is more interesting, and its
lower grounds, containing some rich meadows and fer-
tile valleys, contrast well with its lofty hills, covered
to the summits with verdant pasture. There are many
springs of good fresh water, and four fresh-water lakes,
abounding in black trout and eels, and varying in length
from half a mile to a mile.
The soil comprises light black, and sandy earth,
moss, and meadow ; and the crops, consisting of barley,
oats, and potatoes, grown merely for home consumption,
P2
B A R R
B A H R
ripen very early on the sandy soils, of which much
exists in the parish : agriculture here takes its prevail-
ing character from that of the population, and is un-
formed and rugged, and the district is more suited to
grazing than tillage. The lands are let principally to
small tenants ; the habitations, in general, are of the
very lowest description, as well as the resources, and
manner of life of the tenants. The cattle are of a good
quality, and a new and improved breed of sheep has
been recently introduced ; the horses are small, but
hardy and well shaped, and are kept in great numbers,
being found useful for transporting sea-weed for manure,
and for the preparation of kelp. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £2470. The rocks consist chiefly
of coarse granite ; but in the island of Bernera, a quarry
of this stone, of a very superior kind, has been dis-
covered, of which the lighthouse was built. The only
mansion is the house of Barra, at Eoligary, which is a
commodious residence, well sheltered, and surrounded
by good fields. It was built by the late proprietor, who
transplanted some trees, of which the parish is remark-
ably bare, to the grounds of his mansion ; but, though
they had thriven tolerably well in their former situation,
they soon pined away after their removal. A few of the
inhabitants are engaged in fishing, and four vessels used
for this purpose belong to the place ; but the poverty
of the people operates not only to straiten their agricul-
tural efforts, and to keep the capabilities of the soil, to
a great extent, in abeyance, but also to confine their
fishing within very narrow limits, although Barra is
one of the best stations on the west coast. Besides
lobsters, crabs, whelks, limpets, mussels, and cockles,
the quantity of which last is very great, and often sup-
plies a principal article of food, the neighbouring seas
abound with ling, cod, tusk, hake, turbot, and flounders ;
and immense shoals of herrings also come up, which
the inhabitants are unable to take for want of suitable
tackle. About twenty or thirty boats are sometimes
employed, with five men in each, and if successful, and
the weather permits, they carry the ling and cod to
Glasgow and Greenock in their own boats. Many cear-
bans, or sail-fish, were formerly taken by means of the
harpoon, and large quantities of oil extracted, but this
branch has now failed, through the inability of the
fishermen to provide the necessary tackle.
The parish is in the presbytery of Uist and synod of
Glenelg, and in the patronage of the Crown; the minister's
stipend is £165. 10. 5., of which a portion is received
from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe valued
at £17. 10. per annum. The church is a plain struc-
ture, built a few years since, and conveniently situated
in the centre of the parish, about six miles from each
extremity of the main island. There is a Roman
Catholic chapel. The parochial school affords instruc-
tion in English and writing, though the master is quali-
fied to teach the classics, book-keeping, and geography ;
he has a salary of £26 : the school has been only lately
opened, and education is at present quite in its infancy,
the inhabitants being mostly unable to read or write.
The poor enjoy the benefit of a bequest of £400, left by
two persons, natives of the parish. At Killbar, are se-
veral ruins of ancient chapels dedicated to St. Barr,
some of which have an altar of rough stones at one
end, and the pedestal of a cross at a short distance : a
wooden figure of the saint was formerly fixed up for the
108
adoration of the people, and was dressed in superior
attire, on the celebration of the anniversary. Watch-
towers are seen in every direction ; and each lake has
a "dun," supposed to be of Scandinavian origin, as well
as those circles usually called Druidical remains. A
few years since, a gold medal was found, in digging the
clergyman's garden, about the size of a half-crown piece,
cast for the coronation of Augustus II., king of Poland,
and which is said to have belonged to some passenger
on board of a Dutch ship wrecked here in the early part
of the last century.
BARREL-OF-BUTTER, an islet, in the parish of
Orphir, county of Orkney. It is one of the smallest
of the Orkneys, and is situated to the south of the
island of Pomona, in Scalpa Flow, a large expanse of
water resembling a small Mediterranean Sea. Here was
formerly a seal-fishery, for which the neighbouring
farmer paid the proprietor a barrel of oil yearly, until
the frequency of shipping scared the animals from the
isle, when the proprietor, determined not to lose his
rent, converted the tack -duty into a barrel of butter,
which is still paid by the tenant ; and hence the isle
derives its present name, the ancient one being Carlin-
Skerry.
BARRHEAD, lately a quoad sacra parish, includ-
ing the villages of Cross- Arthurlee, Grahamstown, New-
ton Ralston, and Barrhead, in the parish of Neilston,
Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 4 miles (S. by E.)
from Paisley ; the whole containing 5337 inhabitants.
This place is situated on the stream of the Levern, on
which are a number of fine waterfalls that have con-
tributed much to the manufactures of the district,
consisting of cotton spinning and weaving, and printing,
bleaching, and dyeing, all extensively carried on, prin-
cipally for the Glasgow and Paisley markets. Coal is
abundant, and three mines are at present in operation.
A fair is held, chiefly for pleasure, on the last Friday in
June, when a horse-race also takes place. The village,
situated on the road from Glasgow to Irvine, is of con-
siderable size, and, for the most part, inhabited by
persons engaged in the various works ; it has a post-
office, with a daily delivery. The parish is in the pres-
bytery of Paisley and synod of Glasgow and Ayr : the
church, a neat structure, was built by subscription, in
1839 ; the minister is elected by the male communicants.
There is a good school, of which the teacher has a room
rent-free, and affords instruction to a considerable num-
ber of the children of the place ; also a mechanics' sub-
scription library.
BARRIE, a parish, in the county of Forfar, in-
cluding the late quoad sacra district of Carnoustie, and
containing 2124 inhabitants, of whom 217 are in the
village, 9 miles (E. N. E.) from Dundee. This parish is
situated at the southern extremity of the county, on the
shore of the German Ocean, and at the mouth of the
Frith of Tay, measuring about four miles from north to
south, and above three from east to west. In the latter
direction it is intersected, throughout its whole extent,
by a high verdant bank, supposed to have once formed
a steep shore of the ocean, and separating the locality
into two grand divisions totally dissimilar in character.
That on the north is of a good soil, and elevated about
fifty feet above the southern portion, from which it has
the appearance of an extensive and regularly con-
structed terrace ; while the lower division is sandy and
B A R V
B A R V
sterile, affording in general but a scanty pasture for a
few sheep and cattle, with small patches of arable land,
producing, in moist seasons, moderate crops of grain.
The whole comprises about 4000 acres, half being in
the sandy, and half in the cultivated, portion. The soil
in the upper part has the several varieties of light
loam, good gravel, and a deep black earth ; and, under
the skilful application of the most approved usages of
husbandry, crops are obtained of wheat, barley, oats,
peas, turnips, flax, clover, and potatoes, nearly equal
to those grown in more favoured districts. Of the part
never yet cultivated, covering nearly 2000 acres, very
little is serviceable on account of the light and sandy
nature of the soil, except for occasional pastures. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £4052. The
larger part of the population, both male and female, are
engaged in the manufacture of brown and white linen,
for the Dundee and Arbroath houses ; a vitriol-work,
employing four or five hands, was erected a few years
since, and there are five stations for the fishing of
salmon, belonging to three different proprietors. A
turnpike-road from Dundee to Aberdeen, and the rail-
road between the former place and Arbroath, pass
through the parish ; and to the two latter towns, the
produce is usually sent for sale. The parish is in the
presbytery of Arbroath and synod of Angus and Mearns,
and in the patronage of the Crown ; the minister's
stipend is £143. 12. 11., with a manse, and a glebe of
five acres, valued at £5. 10. per annum. The church,
situated in the centre of the parish, is a plain structure,
altered and enlarged in the year ISIS. A place of
worship has been erected in connexion with the Free
Church. The parochial school affords instruction in the
usual branches ; the master has a salary of £29. 18. 9.,
with £30 fees. Till lately there were tumuli on the
eastern limit of the parish ; and in the same vicinity,
near Carnoustie, were the vestiges of a camp, where, it is
said, the Danes were defeated under Camus, by the
Scots headed by Malcolm II.
BARVAS, a parish, in the island of Lewis, county
of Ross, and Cromarty, 10 miles (N. W. by N.) from
Stornoway ; containing, with the late quoad sacra dis-
trict of Cross, 3S50 inhabitants. The name of this
place, like that of many others in the neighbourhood, is
supposed to be of Norwegian derivation; but its signifi-
cation is altogether unknown. From the memorials which
still remain, the Danes appear to have had some con-
nexion with the district : a fort, now in ruins, evidently
of Danish construction, stands on the border of a loch
south of Bragar, and three buildings of the same de-
scription are to be seen between Shadir and Borve, each
of them, by its peculiar form, locality, and appendages,
indicating the scene of the military operations of that
people. On a plain of moss between Barvas and Shadir,
stands an immense stone, eighteen feet high, and
almost as much in girth, supposed to have been raised
as a triumphal memorial of the slaughter of some
cruel and reckless tyrant of the Danish nation ; and
the ruins of several old chapels and burying-grounds still
remain, showing the subsequent occupation of the soil
by religious teachers. These chapels were dedicated
to St. Bridget in Borve, St. Peter in Lower Shadir, St,
Mary in Barvas, and St. John in Bragar.
The parish, which is remotely situated, in the
northern extremity of the island of Lewis, is about
109
twenty-two miles long, and seven broad, and contains
16,103 acres, of which number 1468 arc in tillage, 4S9
the best kind of pasture, and 14,146 pasture of an inferior
kind; it is bounded on the north-west by the Atlantic
Ocean. The coast, which comprises a length of about
fourteen miles, is rugged, and in many parts bold and
rocky, and is beaten by a violent surf when the wind
blows from the west or north-west. The surface of the
ground in the interior is diversified by gentle eleva-
tions, except in one or two instances, where it is broken
by a deep glen traversed by rivulets, or occupied by a
sweeping moor covered with red mountain deer. There
are five rivers, the Glen, Borve, Shadir, Arnal, and
Torra, which generally rise from springs or lochs, six
or seven miles up the country, and empty them-
selves into the ocean. The climate is surcharged with
vapour and fog, and subject to violent storms and rains ;
the striking phenomenon of the Aurora Borealis is fre-
quently seen, in all its splendour and majesty. The
soil of the cultivated land, which chiefly lies along the
sea-shore, is black earth, often largely mixed with
gravel or sand, but, as the main part of the parish is
moor, the soil is mostly mossy. The arable portion is
overspread with quantities of stones, which, together
with exposure to winds from the sea, without hill or
mountain to protect behind, supply formidable impedi-
ments to the labour of the farmer, and sometimes de-
stroy his crops altogether. The rental is small ; no
produce is exported, the whole being used in home
consumption, and but few improvements have been
made in agriculture, chiefly from the shortness of the
leases, and the poverty of the people, who, in seasons
of scarcity, are compelled to live upon whelks, limpets,
and crabs, the only shell-fish to be found. About
2500 head of black-cattle are reared, which are fed in
winter chiefly on sea-weed ; and the sheep amount to
upwards of 7000, and are all of small stature, as are
the horses, which, however, are compact, active, and
mettlesome, and well suited to their ordinary work of
carrying the sea-weed in double-baskets, over difficult
and rocky grounds. The subsoil is a stiff hard clay,
which, in some parts, is covered with large banks of
sand, twenty feet high, driven inward from the shore
by the continued action of westerly winds. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £1942.
The inhabitants live in numerous villages on the
coast, almost entirely in an insulated state, having very
little communication with others ; there are two roads,
one running along the coast, and another to Storno-
way, the only mart in the island. The parish contains
four small bays, into which boats sometimes enter;
but the violence of the wind prevents the anchorage
of any vessel. Salmon-fishing has been carried on for
some years, with considerable success, near the mouths
of the rivers ; but the nature of the coast rendering
other fishing impracticable, the people are generally
little inclined to make the employment a steady pursuit.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery
of Lewis and synod of Glenelg ; the minister has a
manse, a glebe worth about £20 per annum, and a sti-
pend of £158. 6. 8., partly paid from the exchequer ; the
patronage belongs to the Crown. The church, built
nearly sixty years since, is a long narrow building,
and contains 300 sittings, all free. There is a paro-
chial school, in which the classics and the common
BATH
BATH
branches of education are taught, and the master of
which has a salary of £2S ; and two other schools are
supported by the Edinburgh Gaelic School Society.
The pai-ish contains several chalybeate springs, but none
of any note.
BASS, ISLE, in the parish of North Berwick,
county of Haddington. It is situated in the Frith
of Forth, above a mile distant from the south shore,
and is of stupendous height, inaccessible on all sides,
except by one narrow passage. On the summit is
a spring, sufficient to provide water for the garrison
of a small castle ; there is also pasturage for a few
sheep, and a warren. This island was an ancient pos-
session of the family of Lawder, and was purchased, in
1671, by Charles II., during whose reign, and that of
James II., it was made a state prison, where the Came-
ronians, or Western people, were confined for being in
arms against the sovereign. A cavern runs through
the rock from north-west to south-east, in the centre of
which is a deep pool of water. St. Baldred, the apostle
of East Lothian, in the sixth century, is generally sup-
posed to have made the isle his place of seclusion. — See
Berwick, North.
BATHAN'S, ABBEY ST., a parish, in the county
of Berwick, 7 miles (N. by W.) from Dunse ; contain-
ing 140 inhabitants. The name of this place has been
successively written St. Boythan's, Bothan's, and Ba-
than's, which last form it has preserved since the
earlier part of the last century. The word Abbey, it is
supposed, was prefixed to distinguish it from the parish
of Gilford or Yester, in East Lothian, which was also
called St. Bothan's, but had no convent ; the name
Bathan was derived from the patron saint, who laboured
here in the early part of the 7th century, and to whom
the first church was dedicated. Near this church, which
was destroyed more than once by fire, during the in-
cursions of the Banes, a convent of Cistercian nuns was
founded between the years 1184 and 1200, with the
title of priory, by Ada, daughter to King William the
Lion, and wife to Patrick, Earl of Dunbar. This in-
stitution, by the liberal benefactions of the foundress
and her husband, and various other persons, acquired
considerable estates, in addition to the patronage of the
church, by which the nuns were enabled, through the ap-
pointment of a vicar, to appropriate to themselves the
revenues of the living. A chapel was also founded in
the parish, about a quarter of a mile from the nunnery,
on the same side of the river Whiteadder, the founda-
tions of which lately existed. At Strafontane, too,
which is now part of the parish, but was anciently
distinct, an hospital was founded in the reign of
David I., which, at one time, was dependent on the
abbey of Alnwick, but was transferred, in 1437, by the
abbot of that place, to the monastery of Dryburgh, and
came afterwards into the possession of the collegiate
church of Dunglass, and was ultimately converted into a
church.
The mean length of the parish, from east to west, is
about 3^ miles, and its breadth 2§ ; it contains about
5000 acres, of which 2600 are hilly pasture never culti-
vated, 100 wood, and 2300 arable. It is situated among
the Lammerrnoor hills, and the surface consequently
consists of hills and slopes, the former of which are, for
the most part, covered with heath, and rise to various
elevations, of between 300 and 400 feet above the in-
110
tervening vales, and then spread out into extensive flats.
The level grounds on the banks of the streams which
receive the drainage of the hills, are in general fertile,
as well as many of the slopes, but the upper lands are
altogether barren. The Whiteadder is the only river;
after a course of about 12 miles, in which it is joined by
the Dye and many smaller streams, it assumes, in its pas-
sage through the parish, a beautiful meandering form,
and receives, besides many rivulets, the tributaries of the
Monj'nut and the Ware, which extend its width to
about eighty feet. A bridge constructed of wood, and
raised upon stone piers, has very recently been erected
across the river, on the tension-bar principle, and is
much and deservedly admired for its simplicity and
elegance. The soil is equal, if not superior, to any
part of the Lammerrnoor, but is in some parts of
meagre impoverished quality, and much better suited to
the pasturage of sheep and cattle than the growth of
corn ; the produce principally comprises oats, barley,
potatoes, and turnips. The sheep are the Cheviots, mixed
with a few of the black-faced, and the ewes of each of
these are, in many cases, crossed with the Leicesters ;
considerable improvements have recently been made in
husbandry, consisting chiefly in drainage, and the re-
claiming of waste land. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £1397. Veins of copper-ore have been
discovered on the estate of St. Bathan's, and were
worked in 1S28, by an English mining company; but
after the first attempt the undertaking was abandoned.
There is no village ; but a group of pleasing and inter-
esting objects in the beautiful and romantic vale
through which the Whiteadder runs, includes the house
of St. Bathan's, a corn-mill, the church, the manse
standing on an acclivity in the midst of trees, and the
school-house. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to
the presbytery of Dunse and synod of Merse andTeviot-
dale ; the patronage belongs to the Crown, and the
minister's stipend is £155. 9. 3., with a manse, built in
1S22, and a glebe of 14 acres, worth £13 per annum.
The church, which is an ancient edifice in good repair,
is conveniently situated, and accommodates 140 per-
sons ; the east window, of pointed architecture, is still
in some measure preserved. When lately repairing the
north wall of the edifice, a recumbent statue of a nun
was found, but without any inscription : in this wall was
formerly an arched door, now built up, which communi-
cated with the monastic buildings. There is a parochial
school, in which the usual branches of education are
taught, with mathematics, and Latin, and of which the
master has a salary of £26. 8., with about £12 fees, and
a house. In a woody nook at a little distance from the
church is a spring named St. Bathan's well, formerly
esteemed of miraculous power in healing diseases, and
to which the superstitious still attach many surprising
virtues.
BATHGATE, a burgh of barony, and a parish, in the
county of Linlithgow, 7 miles (S. by W.) from Linlith-
gow, and 18 (W. by S.) from Edinburgh ; containing, with
the village of Armadale, 392S inhabitants, of whom 2809
are in the town. This place, of which the name, in a
charter of Malcolm IV. written Batket, is of unknown
derivation, formed part of the extensive possessions given
by King Robert Bruce, in 1316, with his daughter,
the Princess Marjory, on her marriage to Walter, high
steward of Scotland, ancestor of the royal family of
BAT II
BAT II
Stuart, who had one of his principal residences at this
place, where he died in 132S. Of this ancient castle,
some slight traces of the foundations only are discern-
ible, in a morass about a quarter of a mile from the
town, in which, though it has been drained and brought
into cultivation, kitchen utensils of brass, and coffins
rudely formed of flat stones, have been discovered by
the plough. The barony, with the sheriffdom, which
had been annexed to it, was granted by Charles II., in
1663, to Thomas Hamilton, and subsequently became
the property of the Hope family, of whom John, the
second Earl of Hopetoun, on the abolition of hereditary
jurisdictions, in 1747, claimed £2000, as an indemnity.
There are few events of importance connected with the
history of Bathgate, with the exception of some occa-
sional encounters which took place, during the time of
the Covenanters, between the inhabitants and the soldier}'
who were sent to disperse their meetings.
The town is chiefly situated on the acclivity of a hill,
on the north side of the middle road from Glasgow to
Edinburgh, and consists of several well-formed streets
of neatly-built houses, from which others, of inferior
character, branch off in various directions. The prin-
cipal streets are paved, and well lighted with gas from
works erected by a company recently formed ; and the
inhabitants are amply supplied with water. A subscrip-
tion library has been recently established, which has a
collection of about 300 volumes, and is well supported ;
the post-office has two deliveries from Glasgow, and
one from Edinburgh, daily, and branches of the Na-
tional Bank of Scotland, and the Glasgow Union Bank,
have been opened in the town. The cotton manufacture
is carried on to a considerable extent, affording employ-
ment to about 500 of the inhabitants, in hand-loom
weaving, chiefly for the Glasgow houses ; and about 160
women and girls are engaged in tambour-work. A dis-
tillery and a brewery, both on an extensive scale, are in
active operation ; and there are two brick and tile
works, in which several hands are employed. The
market, which is abundantly supplied with grain, and
numerously attended, is on Wednesday ; and fairs for
cattle and horses are held on the third Wednesday in
April, the first Wednesday after Whitsuntide (O. S.), the
fourth Wednesday in June, the third Wednesday in
August, the fourth Wednesday in October, and the first
Wednesday after Martinmas (O. S.). Of these, the prin-
cipal are the Whitsuntide and Martinmas fairs, which
are attended by dealers from all parts of the country.
Facility of communication is afforded by the Edinburgh
and Glasgow, and the Lanark and Borrowstounness,
turnpike-roads, which pass through the parish, and by
other roads kept in good repair by statute labour ; and
a branch from the Slamannan railway will be ex-
tended to this place, and contribute greatly to pro-
mote its intercourse with the neighbouring districts.
The inhabitants, with the concurrence of the superior of
the town, obtained an act of parliament, in 1824, con-
ferring a charter of incorporation, and vesting the
government of the burgh in a provost, three bailies, a
treasurer, and twelve councillors, annually elected by
the burgesses, who must be holders of houses or tene-
ments valued at £3 per annum, and are entitled to become
burgesses on the payment of fees not exceeding £2. 2.
The jurisdiction of the magistrates, which is confined to
the limits of the burgh, extends to civil pleas not ex-
111
ceeding £25, and to the trial of petty offences, for which
they hold courts as occasion may require ; but the num-
ber of causes is very inconsiderable, and courts for the
recovery of small debts are held every two months, by
the magistrates. A sheriff's court is held four times in
the year, under the sheriff of the county, who is also
appointed sheriff of Bathgate. There is a small prison,
containing three cells for criminals, and a room for
debtors, under the management of the corporation ; but
it is rarely used, except for the temporary confinement
of deserters on their route to Glasgow or Edinburgh.
The seal of the burgh simply bears the inscription,
" Sigillum Commune Burgi de Bathgate," in an outer
circle, and, within, the words, "erected by act of parlia-
ment 5th Geo. IV. 1824," with a crown.
The parish is about seven miles and a half in length,
and about four miles in extreme breadth, comprising an
area of 11,214 acres, of which S700 are arable, S00 pas-
ture, 500 woodland and plantations, and the remainder,
excepting the site of the town and the village of Arma-
dale, roads and waste. The surface, though generally
level, is diversified by the hills of the Knock and the
Reiving Craig, which nearly equal the Cairnapple in
height, attaining an elevation of about 1450 feet above
the sea. The only river in the parish is the Almond,
which separates it, for about a mile, from the parish of
Whitburn ; there are numerous springs, and, in the
grounds of Balbardie, a lake partly artificial, about
eleven acres in extent, and averaging five feet in depth.
The soil, on the slopes of the hills, is rich, and in the
lower grounds wet and marshy, though it has been
greatly benefited by draining ; and the lands which are
not under tillage, afford good pasturage for cattle. The
system of agriculture is in an improved state, and a
considerable portion of waste has been reclaimed; the
crops are, grain of every sort, with potatoes and tur-
nips, and much attention is paid to the management
of the dairy-farms. Few sheep are pastured, and the
cattle are of various mixed breeds, but, on the daiiy-
farms, mostly of the pure Ayrshire kind. The farm
buildings are inferior to others in the district; but im-
provements are gradually taking place, under the aus-
pices of an agricultural society in the town, which awards
premiums at its annual meetings, when there is a show
of cattle. A horticultural society has also been esta-
blished. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£12,975.
The plantations consist of oak, ash, elm, and plane,
with larch, and silver, spruce, and Scotch firs. The
substratum is principally coal, forming part of the cen-
tral coal-field of Scotland, but the seams are frequently
intersected with dykes of whiustone. Limestone is also
found, both of the marine and lacustrine formation ; in
the former, are various species of corrallines, ammonites,
and marine shells, and in both are veins of lead con-
taining portions of silver-ore. In one of the mines,
called the silver mine, the ore was wrought for some
time, yielding a considerable quantity of silver, which
gradually diminished till the working was ultimately
discontinued. In connexion with the strata of coal, is
found iron- ore, which was formerly wrought by the
Carron Iron Company, and for the working of which, in
another part of the parish, a company recently formed
have commenced operations ; and there are occasionally
found, in the limestone, thin layers of mineral pitch.
BEAT
B ED R
Several coal-mines are in operation, and some have been
recently discontinued ; there are also lime-works, all of
which produce lime of good quality. Freestone and
whinstone are likewise abundant ; of the former, one
quarry is constantly wrought, on the lands of Balbardie,
producing stone of* excellent quality for building, and
the latter is wrought occasionally for the roads. Bal-
bardie House, in the parish, is a handsome mansion,
erected towards the close of the last century, after a
design by Mr. Adam, and beautifully situated in a well-
wooded park of more than 100 acres, containing much
diversified scenery ; and Boghead, another residence, is
surrounded with thriving plantations, formed by the
present proprietor.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Linlithgow and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale ; the minister's stipend is
£132. S. 4., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £19
per annum ; patron, the Earl of Hopetoun. The church,
erected in 1/39, is a plain building, situated in the town,
and nearly in the centre of the parish ; it is in good
repair, and contains 719 sittings, a number very inade-
quate to the population. There are places of worship
for Free Church, Relief, United Secession, and Original
Burgher congregations. The parochial school is well
attended ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4|., with
a house and garden, and the fees average £26 per
annum. The Bathgate Academy was founded by Mr.
John Newlands, a native of this parish, who died in
Jamaica, in 1799, and bequeathed the principal part of
his property to trustees, for the erection and endow-
men of a free school here. The trustees, after resisting
an attempt to invalidate the bequest, in which they
were indemnified by the personal security of Mr.
Majoribanks, received £14,500, and immediately opened
schools in different parts of the parish, which, on the
subsequent increase of the funds, were concentrated
in the present institution, in 1S33. The academy is
under the superintendence of a rector, who is also the
classical master, two English masters, and a master for
writing, arithmetic, and the mathematics ; and is at-
tended by about 500 children, who are all gratuitously
taught. The building is a handsome structure, consist-
ing of a centre and two wings connected by a colonnade,
and comprises a house for the rector, with four ample
class-rooms, a library, in which are more than 700
volumes, and other apartments, with a spacious play-
ground in front. The poor are partly supported by the
interest of £1100 bequeathed by Mr. Henry Calder,
yielding £53 per annum. There are some Druidical
remains in the vicinity ; and in different parts of the
parish, have been found coins of Edward I., Queen
Elizabeth, and Charles II. Several of the springs are
strongly chalybeate ; and on the estate of Couston, the
water resembles in its quality that of the celebrated
spring of Dollar.
BAYNTON, county of Fife. —See Baneton.
BEATH, a parish, in the district of Dunfermline,
county of Fife, 2| miles (S.) from Blair-Adam Inn ;
containing, with the villages of Cowden-Beath, Kelty,
and Oakfield, 973 inhabitants. This parish, though
now destitute of any trees of the kind, is supposed to
have originally abounded with birch, and from that cir-
cumstance to have derived its name, anciently written
Baith, which, in the Gaelic language, signifies a birch-
112
tree. It is situated on the great road from Perth to
Quecnsferry, extending for about four miles in length,
and three miles in breadth, and comprising 6500 acres,
of which about 5300 are arable, 500 meadow and pas-
ture, 500 woodland and plantations, and the remainder
water and waste. The surface is very irregular, rising
in many places into hills of considerable elevation, some
of which afford rich pasture, and one called the Hill of
Beath commands interesting views ; the scenery has
been, in some parts, enriched with thriving plantations,
and is enlivened by the loch Fitty, a fine sheet of water,
about three miles in circumference, and abounding with
pike, perch, and other fish. The soil is generally good,
consisting of a clay and loam, interspersed occasionally
with moss ; the crops are, oats, barley, peas, beans,
potatoes, and turnips, with wheat occasionally, and a
small quantity of flax. The system of agriculture is
excellent ; a considerable quantity of waste has been
reclaimed, and much which, from previous mismanage-
ment, had been unproductive, has been rendered fertile.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £4404. The
substrata are chiefly whinstone and sandstone; coaljs
found in abundance, and there arc at present three col-
lieries worked in the parish, which afford a plentiful
supply of fuel ; limestone is also wrought, but on a very
limited scale. The parish is in the presbytery of Dun-
fermline and synod of Fife, and in the patronage of the
Earl of Moray ; the minister's stipend is about £165,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £17 per annum.
The church is a handsome edifice, erected in 1S35, by
the heritors, and affords ample accommodation. The
parochial school is attended by about 100 pupils; the
master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with £30 fees, and a
house and garden.
BEAULY, a village, in the parish of Kilmorack,
county of Inverness, 18 miles (W.) from Inverness;
containing 560 inhabitants. It is situated at the mouth
of the river of the same name, and was distinguished
for a priory founded in 1230, which, at the Dissolution,
came into the possession of Hugh, Lord Frazer, of
Lovat, in whose family it continued until 1745, when it
was forfeited to the crown : a portion of the walls is
still standing. The village is a considerable thorough-
fare to and from all the more northern Highland coun-
ties ; and the Beauly is navigable for small vessels for
about three miles above it. The river is formed by the
union, near Erkless Castle, of the Farrur, Canich, and
Glass streams, and takes an easterly course, and, after
forming the falls of Kilmorack and other cascades,
merges in an arm of the sea connected with the Moray
Frith.
BEDRULE, a parish, in the district of Jedburgh,
county of Roxburgh, 3 miles (S. W.) from Jedburgh ;
containing, with the villages of Newtown and Rew-
castle, 256 inhabitants, of whom 1 1 1 are in the village
of Bedrule. This place derives its name from its situa-
tion on the small but rapid and impetuous river Rule,
whose waters, impeded in their progress by fragments
of loosened rock, pursue their course with tumultuous
noise. It lays claim to considerable antiquity, and
formed part of the possessions of the Turnbull family,
one of whose descendants was keeper of the privy seal
in 1441, and subsequently Bishop of Glasgow. The
parish, which is nearly in the centre of the county, is of
elliptic form, and comprises about 1600 acres of arable
BEDR
BEIT
land, and an equal quantity in pasture, with about 40
acres of wood and plantations, and a considerable por-
tion of waste. The surface is diversified with hills and
dales ; of the former, the hill of Daman, in the south-
east, is the highest, rising in a circular form to an ele-
vation of more than 1000 feet above the sea; it is flat
on the summit, and forms a conspicuous mark for
mariners. The scenery is generally pleasing, and in
some parts enriched with stately wood. The chief rivers
are, the Rule, which winds beautifully between wooded
banks displaying much picturesque beauty ; and the
Teviot, which skirts the parish for a considerable dis-
tance, and receives the waters of the Rule at no great
distance from the village.
The soil is extremely various, though generally fertile ;
near the rivers it is a rich sandy loam, resting on a bed
of gravel, and in some parts intermixed with clay ; in
others, of a thinner and less productive quality, on a
subsoil of retentive clay. The principal crops are, oats,
barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips ; the system of
agriculture is improved, and lime and bone-dust are un-
sparingly used for manure. Great attention is paid to
the rearing of live stock, for which the pastures are well
adapted ; the sheep are of the Cheviot breed, with the
exception of a few scores of the Leicestershire, and a
few Merinos ; the cattle, of which only a moderate
number are fed for the butcher, are all of the short-
horned breed. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £2J47. The woods consist chiefly of birch, alder,
common and mountain ash, hazel, cherry, and oak ; and
the plantations, of firs of all kinds, which thrive well.
The substrata are generally greywacke, of which the
hills mainly consist, and sandstone of a reddish hue ;
there are some indications of coal, but no adequate
attempts have been made to obtain it ; limestone is also
found, at Bedrule hill, and a quarry was formerly open
there, but the working of it has been discontinued. The
sandstone is of excellent quality, and is extensively
quarried for building and for ornamental uses. Knows-
worth House, in the parish, is a very elegant mansion
in the Elizabethan style of architecture, situated in a
highly picturesque and richly-wooded demesne, laid out
with great taste.
The parish is in the presbyter}' of Jedburgh and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; the minister's stipend
is £148. 9. S., with a manse and glebe ; patrons, the
Hume family. The church, erected about 1S05, is a sub-
stantial edifice, situated on the summit of a steep bank,
and is adapted for 140 persons. The parochial school
is well attended ; the master's salary is £26, with £7
fees, and a house and garden. There are some slight
remains of the castle of Bedrule, the baronial seat of the
Turnbulls, consisting chiefly of the foundations of the
ancient buildings, on the right bank of the Rule ; and
on the opposite side of the river are vestiges of out-
works formerly connected with that stronghold ; the
site commands an extensive prospect. Remains also
exist of an old fort at Fulton, one of the numerous
strongholds erected during the times of border warfare.
On the farm of Newton, near the road from Jedburgh
to Hawick, is the site of an encampment, surrounded on
all sides but one by a fosse of running water; it is situ-
ated on the slope of a hill, and is about 600 feet in
circumference ; it is supposed to have been an out-
station connected with a Roman camp at Stirk-rigg,
Vol. I.— 113
about a mile distant, but of which every trace has been
obliterated by the plough. Not far from this station,
is a well called Our Lady's Well, said to have been con-
structed by the monks of Jedburgh, for a fish-pond.
BEIL-GRANGE, a hamlet, in the parish of Sten-
ton, county of Haddington, 1 mile (S. S. W.) from
Stenton ; containing 53 inhabitants. It is near the
borders of the parish of Dunbar, and is remarkable for
a splendid mansion in its vicinity, built by the Nisbet
family : the Beil rivulet passes on the north of the
hamlet, and, flowing by Belton and West Barns, empties
itself into the German Sea.
BEITH, a parish, chiefly in the district of Cunning-
hame, county of Ayr, but partly in the Upper ward
of the county of Renfrew, 18 miles (W. S. W.) from
Glasgow ; including the villages of Gateside, Northbar,
and Burnhouse, and containing 5795 inhabitants. This
place is supposed to have taken its name from a Celtic
term signifying " birch," and many parts of the district
are referred to, as still bearing names formed partly
with the word icood, such as Roughwood, Woodside,
Threepwood, and others. The locality consisted, in
ancient times, of the two great divisions called the
barony of Beith, and the lordship of Giffen, the latter
being the more extensive, and the two districts being
divided from each other by the Powgree, a stream
falling into the Garnock near the south end of Kilbirnie
loch. The barony was given by Richard de Moreville,
the son and successor of Hugh de Moreville, constable
of Scotland, and lord of Cunninghame, to the abbey of
Kilwinning ; and his wife Avicia de Lancaster, gave the
lands of Beith, Bath, and Threepwood, also to the
abbey ; which conveyances were made in the 12th cen-
tury. This religious establishment erected a chapel
here, afterwards the church of Beith, the monks enjoy-
ing the tithes and revenues, and finding a curate to do
the duty ; but, about the period of the Reformation,
the abbot and chapter feued out the lands in the barony
for small feuduties, which, with the other temporalities
of the church, passed to Hugh, fifth earl of Eglinton,
who was created lord of erection of the monastery. The
lordship of Giffen was given by the family of the de
Morevilles, to W alter de Mulcaster, the donation com-
prehending the whole of the lands to the south and
west of the Powgree ; and the ruins of a chapel founded
by the monastery of Kilwinning, and dedicated to St.
Bridget, are still to be seen on a part of this property.
Beith, at the beginning of the last century, was only
a small village, consisting of a few houses in the vicinity
of the church, but has since grown into a thriving
manufacturing town, with a large and industrious
population ; it is situated on an eminence, in the midst
of a district abounding with beautiful scenery, and is
well lighted with gas, supplied by a company established
in 1831, with a capital of £1600. The town contains
a subscription library, with 400 volumes ; and two
circulating libraries. The population, which also com-
prises several respectable and wealthy merchants, and
persons engaged in various kinds of traffic, is, to a great
extent, composed of hand-loom weavers ; and about
200 persons resident, in the parish, are regularly engaged
in the manufacture of flax thread. A mill for spinning
flax, lately erected at North-bar, two miles from the
town, affords employment to eighty hands ; the pro-
prietor has built, several houses, and has commenced
Q
BEIT
BEIT
feus, so that a considerable village may be expected
shortly to arise on this spot. At Roughbank, is an
establishment of the same description, but on a smaller
scale, and also a mill for making potato-flour, occu-
pying about fourteen persons ; and at Knows, an esta-
blishment has been formed, containing forty steam-
looms, furnishing employment to thirty persons : there
are two bleachfields at Threepwood, in the north-eastern
part of the parish ; and in the town, the tanning and
currying of leather are pursued to a good extent. Many
persons carry on a large traffic in grain, and the
enterprising spirit of the inhabitants has left untouched
scarcely any article of profitable speculation. Beith is
a post-town, and there are two arrivals and departures
daily ; also a daily dispatch of letters to the neigh-
bouring towns of Dairy, Kilbirnie, and Lochwinnoch :
the great line of road from Glasgow to Portpatrick
passes through the town, and the Glasgow and Ayrshire
railway crosses the western extremity of the parish, and
has one of its principal stations here. The marketable
produce is usually sent for sale to Glasgow and Paisley ;
a weekly market, however, of ancient date, is held on
Friday, and fairs are held, chiefly for horses, on the
first Friday in the months of January, February, May,
and November, old style. A festival, also, called vul-
garly Tenant's day, attended by a great concourse of
people, and celebrated for its show of horses, is held
yearly on the ISth of August (O. S.), in honour of St.
Inan, from which name, with the last letter of the word
saint, the present appellation has been formed, by cor-
rupt usage. Inan flourished about the year S39, and,
though resident chiefly at Irvine, occasionally remained
for a time at this place, where he has left memorials
in the name applied to the cleft in a rock, still called
St. Inan's chair, and in the name of a well, called St.
Inan's well. A fair called the "Trades' race," was for-
merly held, in June, when the trades assembled, and
went in order through the town, with music and flags,
but this has been given up ; there is, however, an annual
dinner among the merchants, who were united as a
society previously to the year 1727, and the whole of
whom meet for conviviality on the anniversary, and
annually choose a president. A kind of fair, likewise,
is held in July, called the " Cadgers' race," when the
carters ride in procession through the town. A baron-
bailie and an officer were formerly appointed by the Earl
of Eglinton, who had considerable property in the
parish ; but nothing of this kind has taken place
for many years, and the town has no particular local
government. The town-house was built by subscrip-
tion, in 1817; the lower part consists of two shops, and
the upper part of a large hall in which are held the
justice-of- peace courts, the sheriff small-debt circuit
courts, and various public meetings ; it is also used as
a public reading-room. The lower part of the building
contains a lock-up house, for the custody of prisoners
intended to be sent to Ayr, and for the punishment of
minor offenders.
The parish is in the form of a triangle, and is
bounded on the west by Kilbirnie loch. It measures
at its greatest length, from south-east to south-west,
four miles, and comprises 11,060 acres, of which 500
are in Renfrewshire ; about 320 acres are uncultivated,
100 in plantations, and the remainder is pasture and
tillage. The surface is considerably varied, throughout,
114
with undulations, without presenting any remarkable
elevations, the highest point, called Cuff hill, being only
652 feet above the sea ; but from this eminence, as
well as from some of the uplands, extensive and beau-
tiful views are obtained of the surrounding country,
amply compensating for the general uniformity of the
local scenery. The hill is supposed to take its name
from the word Coifi, or Cuifi, the appellation of the
chief priest of the Druids, and to have been a prin-
cipal seat of the worship of that ancient order ; the fair
of St. Inan, also, in later times, was held here, and
from the top may be seen the mountain ranges of
Galloway and Carrick, the expansive estuary of the
Clyde, the outline of the Perthshire hills, and the
majestic Ben-Lomond. The surface gently slopes from
the north-eastern quarter, the vicinity of Cuff hill, and
is lowest at Kilbirnie loch, being here only ninety feet
above the sea ; and from this sheet of water, a stream
flows northward, through Lochwinnoch, to the river
Clyde, along a valley in which runs the line of railway
to Glasgow. At Blaeloch-head is a small lake j and in
different parts are several streams, the two principal
being the river Lugton, rising in Lochlibo, and falling
into the Garnock below Eglinton Castle, and the Dusk,
which rises at Threepwood, and joins the Garnock at
Dalgarvan, below Dairy. The lands present a great
variety of soil, but in general are fertile, and tolerably
well cultivated ; the chief crop is oats, but large por-
tions are in pasture, and about 900 milch cows, mostly
. of the Ayrshire breed, besides young cattle, are grazed
on the different grounds. Cheese is consequently a
leading article of traffic, and is purchased of the tenants
by cheese-merchants, for the Glasgow market ; milk is
also disposed of, to some extent, in the surrounding
villages, and large quantities of rye-grass seed are
shipped to England, by merchants residing in the town.
The farms are of small size, varying from 50 to 100
acres ; and fully two-thirds of the rent are made by
the sale of the cheese, which is of excellent quality, and
brings the highest price at market. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £15,140. The chief mineral
deposits are coal and limestone, which are wrought ex-
tensively ; clay-ironstone is also found, and good brick-
clay, used at manufactories here for making drain-tiles ;
ironstone exists in several parts, and a freestone quarry
is in operation. Plantations are rare, especially those
of an ornamental kind, except in the vicinity of the
mansions, among which is Caldwell House, at the eastern
extremity of the parish, a large and elegant modern
structure, surrounded by a spacious park, richly orna-
mented with trees, including some of great stature and
beauty. The parish is in the presbytery of Irvine and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the
Earl of Eglinton ; the minister's stipend is £251. 5. 11.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £130 per annum.
The church, commenced in 1S07, and opened for pub-
lic worship in 1810, is a plain edifice, with a tower
and clock, and accommodates 1254 persons ; it was
erected at a cost of £2790, and the bell, which has a
very fine tone, was the gift of Robert Shedden, Esq., of
London, a native of Beith. There are places of worship
for members of the Free Church, the Associate Synod,
and the Relief persuasion. The parochial school affords
instruction in the usual branches ; the master has a
salary of £26, with fees, and a substantial residence :
B E L H
BELL
there are also schools at Hazlehead and other places.
A savings' bank was formed in 1S34, and two societies
have been partly endowed, for the relief of the poor.
Alexander Montgomerie, one of the earlier Scottish
poets, and of some celebrity, was born in the parish.
BELHAVEN, a village, in the parish of Dunbar,
county of Haddington, f of a mile (W.) from Dunbar ;
containing 380 inhabitants. It is a suburb of Dunbar,
pleasantly situated on the south-eastern shore of Bel-
haven bay, which opens into the Frith of Forth ; and
a strong mineral spring draws hither a number of sum-
mer visiters. A church was opened for divine service
in 1840, since which period a place of worship has been
erected in connexion with the Free Church. The place
gives the title of Baron to a branch of the noble family
of Hamilton.
BELHELVIE, a parish, in the district and county
of Aberdeen, 8 miles (N. by E.) from Aberdeen ; con-
taining 1594 inhabitants. The name of this place is
derived from a word in the Gaelic language, signifying
the " mouths of the rivulets," and applied, in the pre-
sent case, as descriptive of the locality, which is marked
by the rise of seven small streams. Here were several
Druidical temples, which have now disappeared before
the operations of husbandry, indicating the original
settlement of that ancient and widely-spreading people
in this district of the country. Numerous tumuli and
barrows, also, are still visible, in which are found urns
made of coarse clay, and filled with dust and human
bones, pointing out this spot as the scene of some ex-
tensive military operations, the particulars of which are
entirely unknown ; and on the sea-shore is a bed of
yellow flints, where a considerable number of arrow-
heads have been found at different times. A large part
of the parish, known by the name of the estate of
Belhelvie, once belonged to the Earl of Panmure, but,
being forfeited in 1715, was purchased by the York
Building Company, and again sold, in lots, in 1782,
before the court of session, since which time it has been
brought into a very superior state of agricultural im-
provement.
The parish is bounded on the east by the German
Ocean, and the number of acres within its limits is
19,000, of which 5000 were recovered, not long since,
from moorland, and 5000 still consist of sea-beech,
peat-bog, and wood ; about 4000 acres are employed
for grain, and 10,000 for turnips, potatoes, hay, pasture,
grass, &c. The coast consists of a fine sandy beach ;
but the general character of the surface, from the sea to
the western extremity, is hilly and broken. The first
land from the coast, is a narrow belt of sand, with short
grass suited for pasture, and, on account of its smooth
surface, was selected by the government engineers ap-
pointed to measure Scotland, as the most level ground
to be met with, for laying down a base line of 5 miles
and 100 feet. The next tract is an alluvial deposit,
crowded with marine stones of all sizes, covered with
mould and moss; and after this, the ground rises
towards the western boundary, until it attains an eleva-
tion of about S00 feet above the level of the sea. The
hills whereof the parish consists, are formed into two
general ridges, from south to north, the termination of
the western extremities of which is the highest land in
the district. The soil in the parts nearest the shore is
sandy, and in some places mixed to a great extent, with
115
clay and stones ; some pieces are rich alluvial deposits,
and the interior is a deep clayey mould, mixed some-
times with peat-moss : the subsoil is usually clay and
sand, with a considerable admixture of stones. All the
wood, which generally stands in hedge-rows, has been
recently planted ; it comprises chiefly elm, plane, ash,
alder, and willow. The few sheep that are kept, are the
black-faced ; and the cattle are mostly of the Aber-
deenshire breed, which, being small-boned and fleshy, and
easily fed up, are found most profitable, and are sent in
large droves to the London market : the cultivation of
grain, however, is the main dependence of the farmer.
Considerable improvements have taken place of late
years in husbandry, in the reclaiming of waste land,
and in draining and inclosures ; the farm-houses are
on a much better scale than formerly, and most of the
changes have been made upon the best principles, and
by the united efforts of the people among themselves.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £7317-
The rock consists of trap, a seam of which, about
half a mile broad, runs for seven miles through the
parish, from south-east to north-west ; a rivulet flows
through this bed, and small hills frequently rise above
the stream to a height of some hundreds of feet, among
which are found all the ordinary kinds of minerals.- On
the south-west side of this layer, the rocks are chiefly
granite ; and on the opposite side they consist of coarse
stone, fit only for the construction of dykes. There are,
also, large beds of peat-moss, some of which, near the
shore, are covered with ten or twelve feet of sea-sand.
They are supposed to extend some distance under the
sea, as large masses or blocks of hard peat-moss, with
the remains of trees imbedded, are frequently cast upon
the beach in stormy weather : in the year 1799, at
Christmas, a block containing upwards of 1700 cubic
feet, was thrown upon the shore, which, with the wood
contained in it, had been perforated by several large
auger worms alive in their holes. A salmon- fishery
extends along the coast, in which stake-nets are em-
ployed, and the profits arising from it are very con-
siderable. Fairs are held for the sale of cattle, in
spring, summer, and autumn. Ecclesiastically, the pa-
rish is subject to the presbytery and synod of Aber-
deen ; there is a good manse, with a glebe of five acres ;
the minister's stipend is £179. 13., and the patronage
is in the Crown. The church, which is in good repair,
contains 519 sittings ; and there are places of worship
for the Free Church and United Associate Synod. A
parochial school is supported, the teacher of which has
a house and garden, with a salary of £27> fees to the
amount of about £40, and a portion of Dick's bequest ;
the classics and mathematics are taught, with all the ordi-
nary branches of education. Another school is endowed
with a few acres of land ; there is a savings' bank, with
a stock of about £300, and bequests have been left for
the relief of the poor, amounting to about £20 per
annum. The antiquities are, some tumuli, and the ruins
of an old chapel ; and there are, also, several chaly-
beate springs, but none of particular note.
BELLIE, a parish, in the counties of Banff and
Elgin, 8 miles (E. by S.) from Elgin ; including part of
the quoad sacra district of Enzie, and the village of Foch-
abers, and containing 2434 inhabitants. The Gaelic
word bellaidth, signifying " broom," has been considered
by some as giving the name to this place ; but others
Q 2
BELL
BEND
derive it from beul-'aith, the meaning of which is " the
mouth of the ford." The parish is situated on the
eastern bank of the river Spey, and is bounded on the
north by the Moray Frith; it is of an oblong form,
though narrower at the northern than at the opposite
end, and comprises 12,048 acres, of which 365S are
arable, 643 pasture, 2S52 wood, and the remainder
chiefly moor. The highest land is in the south-eastern
portion, consisting principally of barren uncultivated
moor, diversified by hills of various figures and altitudes ;
the soil here is partly clayey loam, mixed with moss,
and resting on a substratum of blue slate. On the west
and south of this high district, is a red impervious clay,
intermixed with gravel and small stones. The earth
near the eastern boundary of the parish is sand}' and
light, and the lower lands are of the same nature, ap-
proximating, in the vicinity of the river, to a fertile
loam, resting on a stony or gravelly bed, once over-
flowed with water. The tract along the coast, about a
quarter of a mile wide, is altogether barren. All kinds
of grain and green crops are raised, of good quality, and
an improved method of husbandry has been pursued
with considerable enterprise, for many years ; barley
was formerly the leading crop, but since the suppression
of illicit distillation, wheat has been grown in large quan-
tities, and, with oats, turnips, and potatoes, receives
much attention. The manures comprise lime, sea-weed,
farm-yard dung, and the refuse of herrings obtained
from the fishing-station of Port-Gordon, with, some-
times, portions of bone-dust. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £4S02, including £617 for the
Elginshire portion. The principal rock is the red sand-
stone, consisting of a mixture of dark argillaceous and
siliceous earths, large masses of which are applied
to various architectural uses ; but, though very hard
when first quarried, its friable quality, after long ex-
posure to the air, renders it necessary to cover it with a
thick coating of lime. The loose strata, of the same
component parts, in which it is generally found, are
much in demand for roads and garden-walks, and its
interior often contains breccia rock. Beautiful speci-
mens of asbestos are frequently found, washed down, as
is supposed, by the mountain streams.
The plantations include Scotch fir, with mixtures of
birch and larch. The grounds of the splendid mansion
of Gordon Castle exhibit a fine display of numerous
other trees, among which are many limes, planes, and
horse- chesnuts, with majestic rows of elm and beech,
and an eminence known by the name of the " holly
bank," is covered with a profusion of that evergreen of
the most luxuriant description. This magnificent edifice,
the seat of the Duke of Richmond, is situated in an ex-
tensive park in the immediate vicinity of Fochabers,
and stretches in a direction from east to west nearly
570 feet ; it is a modern structure, and the roof and in-
terior of the eastern wing are of still more recent date,
having been restored in consequence of an accidental
fire on the 11th of July, 1827. The great road from
Edinburgh to Inverness, through Aberdeen, traverses the
parish, and crosses the Spey by a bridge originally built
in 1804, at a cost of upwards of £14,000 ; in 1829, two
of the western arches were carried away by the flood, and
were replaced in 1832, by a beautiful wooden arch of
184 feet span, raised at an expense of more than £5000.
The parish is in the presbytery of Strathbogie and
116
synod of Moray, and in the patronage of the Duke of
Richmond; the minister's stipend is £15S. 6. 8., of
which about £60 are received from the exchequer,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £33 per annum.
The church is situated in the village of Fochabers, and
is a handsome edifice, built in 1798. There is a place
of worship for members of the Free Church. An epis-
copal chapel has lately been built by the Duchess of
Gordon, on the north side of Fochabers ; the Roman
Catholics have a place of worship in that village, and
another about four miles distant, near the eastern boun-
dary, where their clergyman resides. The parochial
school affords instruction in the classics, in addition to
the usual branches ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4.,
with a house and garden given by the Duke of Gordon,
and £18 fees; he also participates in the Dick bequest.
A legacy of 100,000 dollars was left by Mr. Alexander
Milne, merchant of New Orleans, and a native of Foch-
abers, who died in October, 1839, for the erection and
endowment of a free school for the use of the parish of
Bellie. To the north of Gordon Castle, are the remains
of a military station, of quadrangular form, styled the
" Roman Camp," thought to have been formed by a
portion of the troops of Agricola, and intended to cover
a ford on the river Tuessis, or Spey ; a little to the east,
are the remains of a Druidical temple, and not far off, a
mound called the "Court hillock," supposed to have
been the seat of an ancient court of justice. Within the
Duke of Richmond's park, is an old cross.
BELLS-QUARRY, a village, in the parish of Mid
Cai.der, county of Edinburgh, 2 miles (W.) from Mid
Calder ; containing 120 inhabitants.
BELLSHILL, a village, in the parish of Bothwell,
Middle ward of the county of Lanark, l| mile (E.)
from Bothwell ; containing 1013 inhabitants. It lies
on the great road from Edinburgh to Glasgow, and the
hill from which it is named attains an elevation of 3/2
feet above the sea : the population partake in the manu-
factures of the parish. There is a post-oilice ; also a
Relief meeting-house, and two schools.
BELLSTOWN, a hamlet, in the parish of Methven,
county of Perth : containing 25 inhabitants.
BELLYCLONE, a hamlet, in the parish of Maderty,
county of Perth ; containing 69 inhabitants. It is
situated a little east of the road from Foulis to Auchter-
arder, and on the south side of the small river Pow.
BENBECULA, an island, in the parish of South
Uist, county of Inverness; containing 2107 inhabitants.
It lies between the islands of North and South Uist, from
the latter of which it is separated by a narrow channel,
nearly dry at low water ; and is a low island, about
nine miles in length, and the same in breadth, with a
sandy and unproductive soil, except on its western side,
which is rather fertile. The coast all round is indented
with bays, and in the interior are numerous fresh-water
lakes ; a great quantity of sea- weed is annually thrown
on the shore, from which kelp is made. A missionary
here has a stipend of £60, with an allowance of £20
more in lieu of a manse. There were formerly remains
of a nunnery, the stone of which has been used in the
erection of a mansion.
BENDOCHY, a parish, in the county of Perth,
2 miles (N.) from Cupar-Angus ; containing 783 inha-
bitants. This place, previously to the Reformation, be-
longed principally to the monks of the Cistercian abbey
BEND
BENH
at Cupar- Angus ; and the church was, till that time,
the parish church of Cupar-Angus ; but after the Dis-
solution of monasteries, the lands were sold, and the
resident tenants generally became the purchasers. Many
of these lands still retain their ancient names, as Monk-
Mire, Monk-Callie, and the Abbey Mill of Blacklaw, to
which the adjacent estates were bound in thirlage, from
which the proprietors lately obtained their exemption,
by the payment of large sums of money. At Monk-
Callie, formerly existed a small cell, of which the
cemetery is still used as a burying-ground ; and there
are yet to be traced the foundations of an ancient
chapel dedicated to St. Phink. The parish, which is
situated near the eastern extremity of the county, is
bounded on the south-east by the river Isla, and the
lower lands are intersected by the river Ericht, which
divides them into two nearly equal parts. The Isla and
Ericht have both their source in the Grampian range ;
the former, after a south-easterly course of several miles,
entering Perthshire, deviates to the south-west, and
falls into the Tay at Kinclaven ; and the Ericht, which
consists of the united streams of the Blackwater and
the Ardle, forms a confluence with the Isla. The south-
eastern extremity of the parish is twelve miles distant
from the north-western ; but the surface is divided into
detached portions by the intervention of the parishes
of Rattray and Blairgowrie, which separate the highland
from the lowland districts ; and the whole area is not
more than 10,000 acres, of which 5145 are arable, 2963
meadow and pasture, and 986 woodland and planta-
tions.
The soil, in the lower lands, is rich, and the system
of agriculture in a highly improved state ; the chief
crops are, wheat, barley, and oats, with potatoes and
turnips. The introduction of bone-dust for manure, at
an early period, has tended greatly to the improvement
of the lands ; furrow-draining has been extensively
practised, and by the construction of embankments
from the Isla and the Ericht, 500 acres of most valuable
land have been protected. No sheep are reared in the
parish, but considerable numbers are bought in October,
and fed upon the turnips ; the cattle are of the Tees-
water and Angus breeds in the lower parts of the parish,
and in the uplands chiefly of the Highland breed. There
are salmon-fisheries on the Isla and Ericht, but they are
not rented at more than £20 per annum. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £6951. The substratum
of the lower districts abounds with freestone, of which
several quarries are in operation ; and there is a bed
of clay-slate, crossing the highland portion of the
parish, which might be profitably wrought. A mill was
erected at Cupar- Grange, by Mr. x\rcher, about the year
1840, for extracting the farina of potatoes, and the
flour thus obtained is of excellent quality. The turn-
pike-road from Cupar- Angus to Blairgowrie passes
through the parish, for about a mile ; and an omnibus
runs daily to the terminus of the railway at Cupar-
Angus, whence trains start to Dundee. The ecclesias-
tical affairs are under the superintendence of the pres-
bytery of Meigle and synod of Angus and Mearns ; the
minister's stipend is £251. 17. 6., with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £14 per annum; patron, the Crown.
The church is a very ancient structure, containing a
monument to Nicol Campbell, of Keithock, son of
Donald, abbot of Cupar-Angus, a curiously carved pul-
117
pit, and various antique relics; it was repaired in 1843,
and has 400 sittings, all free. The parochial school is
well conducted ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4.,
with a house and garden, and the fees average about
£10 per annum. The late Principal Playfair, of St.
Andrew's, author of a work on chronology, was a native
of this parish. — See Persie.
BENHOLME, a parish, in the county of Kincar-
dine, 3 miles (S. W.) from Bervie, on the road from
Aberdeen to Dundee ; containing, with the village of
Johnshaven, 1648 inhabitants. The name is derived
from ben, a hill, and holme, a piece of low level ground,
terms which are descriptive of the peculiar features of
the district. Very little is known concerning the primi-
tive history of this locality ; but it appears that the
ancient tower of Benholme, a strong building still in a
state of good preservation, was formerly the residence
of the earls-marischal, memorials of whom remain in
inscriptions upon two monuments, transferred from
the burying-aisle of the old church, and now forming
a part of the wall of the present edifice. The parish is
nearly square in form, and contains about 5400 acres,
of which 4000 are under cultivation, 325 in wood, and
about 1060 uncultivated ; it is bounded on the south-
east by the German Ocean. The surface is considerably
varied, though there is no elevation deserving the name
of a hill, except that of Gourdon, which rises 400 feet
at the boundary between Benholme and Bervie. The
shore is about three miles in length, along which is a
plain extending the whole distance, and varying in
breadth from 100 yards to a quarter of a mile ; beyond,
is an acclivity of equul extent, the surface of which is
furrowed in many places with lofty ridges ; and from
this the ground gently rises till it reaches the high lands
of Garvock, on the western boundary of the parish.
The coast, which in general is rough and eragged, has
neither cliffs nor headlands, and is altogether barren
and uninteresting in its aspect ; it is indented with the
small bay of Johnshaven, and that of the Haughs of
Nether Benholme. There are three small streams in
the parish, two of which meet a little below the church,
at the corner of the manse garden, and, after running
about a quarter of a mile, fall into the German Ocean.
These rivulets, during heavy rains, frequently swell to a
considerable size, and, augmented by the waters from
the drainage of the lands, overflow the banks of the
deep and narrow hollows through which they flow, and
commit great havoc upon the neighbouring grounds.
There is every variety of soil, from soft fine loam to
wet heavy clay, the latter of which predominates. In
some places, the earth is light and sandy, and consists,
to a very considerable extent, of a deep alluvial deposit,
intermixed with boulders of different sizes, some of
quartz, some of granite, others of greywacke, and a few
of trap, and which are scattered in great quantities over
the fields. Most of the plantations are of recent growth,
except those about Benholme and Brotherton, and con-
sist chiefly of fir, ash, beech, and oak ; but the trees
invariably pine and become stunted in growth when
within the range of the sea-breeze, those only exhibit-
ing a tolerably healthy appearance which are further
removed and under some protecting cover. The state of
husbandry is excellent; the lands are well drained, and
many of the farms are provided with threshing-machines,
more than half of which are driven by water ; the farm-
BERN
BERT
buildings are generally good, and much spirit and
enterprize have been shown, within the last twenty-
years, in recovering desolate wastes. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £5501. The prevailing
rock is the old red sandstone and conglomerate, the
strata of which are cut in a direction from east to west
with dykes of trap ; these rocks are diversified by almost
every variety of quality and intermixture, and in the
trap formation agates have been found in different parts
of the parish. There is a considerable quarry of coarse-
grained sandstone. The seats are, the mansion-house
of Benholme, the entrance to which, in the direction of
Benholme tower, is by a passage formed over the moat
on the west of that ancient structure ; and Brotherton
House, a very ancient edifice, with a terraced garden.
The linen manufacture employs about 230 hands ; and
there is a fishery, the produce of which, consisting of
cod, haddocks, and turbot, with a few small fish, is
cured, and carried inland to Laurencekirk, Fordoun,
&c, and sometimes to Montrose. Herrings are also
taken ; and salmon are caught off the coast, with toler-
able success, by means of bag-nets, the shore being too
rocky to allow of the use of stake-nets. The eccle-
siastical affairs are directed by the presbytery of For-
doun and synod of Angus and Mearns. The patronage
belongs to the family of Scott of Brotherton and Lord
Cranstoun, the former for two turns, and the latter
for one, and the stipend of the minister is £232. 4.,
with a manse, built in 1S26, and a glebe of six acres,
valued at £12. 10. per annum. The church, built in
1S32, is a neat edifice, in good repair, accommodating
?6S persons : the old church, which was taken down in
1832, was furnished with a font for holy water, an in-
cense altar, and a niche in the wall, supposed to have
been a receptacle for sacred relics ; and there are seve-
ral curious inscriptions on the stones yet preserved, one
of which points to this edifice as the burying-place of
the Keith family. There are places of worship belong-
ing to the Free Church and United Associate Synod.
The parochial school affords instruction in Latin and
the usual branches of education, under a master who
has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with £22 fees. A parish
library, consisting of 500 volumes, and a juvenile library
with 400, are extensively used by the population ; there
are also two friendly societies, one of which has a stock
of £600, and bequests amounting to £500 have been left
to the poor, who annually receive the interest.
BENNETSTONE, a village, in the parish of Pol-
mont, county of Stirling; containing 642 inhabit-
ants. It is situated a few miles east of Falkirk. In a
schoolroom in the village, divine service is performed
on Sundays by various ministers of dissenting congre-
gations.
BENVIE, a village, in the parish of Liff and Ben-
tie, county of Forfar, 5 miles (W. by N.) from Dun-
dee ; containing 60 inhabitants. It is situated near the
borders of Perthshire, which bounds the parish on the
east. About a mile from the present church, are the
ruins of the old church of Benvie ; and near the village
is a strong chalybeate spring.
BERNERA, an island, in the parish of Barra,
county of Inverness ; containing 30 inhabitants. It
is one of the Hebrides, and most southerly of the whole
range of these islands, and is about one mile in length,
and three-quarters of a mile in breadth ; from its being
118
also called the Bishop's Isle, it seems to have belonged
to the Bishop of the Isles, and it is said to have been a
sanctuary of the Druids. The soil is fertile, and in the
centre is a fresh-water lake, diversified with small islets ;
towards the south, the rocks are rugged and precipitous,
and on this side is a point of land called Barra Head.
BERNERA, an island, in the parish of Harris,
island of Lewis, county of Inverness; containing 713
inhabitants. This isle, with those of Pabbay, Killigray,
and Ensay, constituted the late quoad sacra parish of
Bernera ; it is situated in the sound of Harris, and is
about four miles in length, and one and a half in
breadth, and comprises 3545 acres of arable, and 1310
of pasture land. The surface is rocky, principally
whinstone, and the soil mostly of a sandy quality, in-
terspersed with patches of moor ; the tenants have a
small portion of ground called a croft, and two have
each about 330 acres. The manufacture of kelp em-
ploys all the population, and fish, chiefly ling, cod, and
skate, are obtained at certain seasons : fairs for black-
cattle and horses take place in July and September.
The parish was under the presbytery of Uist and synod
of Glenelg, and in the patronage of the Crown ; the
stipend of the minister is £120, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £1 per annum, with the right of cutting
peat : the church was erected in 1838. There are some
remains of religious houses on the island.
BERNERA, GREAT and LITTLE, two islands, in
the parish of Uig, island of Lewis, county of Ross and
Cromarty. These islands are situated in Loch Roag,
and off the western coast of the island of Lewis ; the
first is about twelve miles long and four broad, and the
other four miles in length and one in breadth. They
are two of a large group of islands in an arm of the sea
which here indents the main land of Lewis. Great
Bernera abounds with lakes, and has a considerable
portion of fertile land ; it contains a tolerably entire
circle of large upright stones, only paralleled by those
of Stonehenge and Stenhouse, and supposed to be of
Druidic origin. Little Bernera, in which is a fresh-water
lake, is covered with pasture.
BERRIEDALE, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Latheron, county of Caithness, 27 miles
(S. E.) from Wick; containing 1750 inhabitants. This
parish, which is on the coast, between the Ord of
Caithness and the harbour of Dunbeath, was separated
from Latheron in 1S33. The church, which is close to
the sea-shore, was erected by government, in 1826, at
an expense of £750 ; it is a neat structure, containing
312 sittings; the minister has a stipend of £120, paid
by government, with a manse and small glebe provided
by the late, and continued by the present, Mr. Home,
proprietor of Langwell. In the vicinity is a place of
worship for members of the Free Church. A parochial
school in connexion with this parish, has been built at
Dunbeath, by William Sinclair, Esq., of Freswick, at an
expense of £300 ; and there are also a school supported
by the General Assembly, and a Sabbath school. The
place gives the title of Baron to the Earl of Caith-
ness.
BERTRAM-SHOTTS, a parish, in the Middle ward
of the county of Lanark ; including the villages of
Harthill, Omoa-New-Town, Sallysburgh, and Shotts-
Iron-Works; and containing 3861 inhabitants, of whom
751 are in the village of Shotts-Iron- Works, 5 miles (E.
BERT
BERT
by S.) from Holytown. This place is generally sup-
posed to have derived its name from a famous robber
called Bartram de Shotts, who, in ancient times, sig-
nalized himself by his depredations, and was eventually
killed near the site of the present church. The whole
of this extensive parish, except Blair-mueks and Mur-
dostown, belonged to the Hamilton family, from the
year 1378 to 1630, when the Marquess of Hamilton dis-
posed of the larger part of the barony. Not far from
the mansion of Murdostown formerly stood the abbey of
St. Bertram ; but no portion of this ancient establish-
ment is now to be seen. The parish, which was once
part of that of Bothwell, is nearly a parallelogram in
form, and is ten miles long, and eight broad, and con-
tains 25,434 acres ; it is bounded on the north by the
North Calder, which separates it from East Monkland
and Torphichen, and on the south, by the South Calder,
which divides it from the parish of Cambusnethan.
The surface is tolerably level throughout, except in the
middle quarter, where it is diversified by elevations,
among which are, the Hirst, the Tilling, and the Cant
hills. The climate is more than ordinarily salubrious,
which induced the celebrated Dr. Cullen, who com-
menced practice in the parish, to say, that Bertram-
Shotts was the Montpelier of Scotland. The rivers
connected with the district are the North and South
Calder, with a few small burns not of sufficient import-
ance to demand notice ; and there is a loch called the
Lily, in which are found common trout and an excellent
species of red char.
The soil is for the most part clayey, except on the
banks of the rivers, where the loamy kind prevails ;
nearly two-thirds of the land are arable, and the rest,
with the exception of a small proportion of wood and
common, is unsheltered moor, annually covered with
the blossom of the heather-bell. About 1000 acres are
under wood, consisting of Scotch fir, spruce, and larch,
all which thrive well : formerly the Scotch fir was the
only kind attended to. The cows are in great repute for
their superior stock, the improvement of which has
been greatly promoted by the establishment of an agri-
cultural society ; and the horses, which are of the
Clydesdale breed, are famed for their strength and sym-
metry. Every kind of farming-stock has been greatly
improved within the last thirty years ; and much waste
land has been reclaimed by means of draining and dig-
ging, for which two prizes, some time since, were
awarded by the Highland Society of Scotland, to two
gentlemen in the parish. The state of the farm-houses,
however, is generally below that of buildings of this
class in parishes where agricultural improvement has
made much progress, although they are far better than
formerly, and are undergoing a gradual change. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £19,910. The
parish forms a portion of the great coalfield of Lanark-
shire, and its carboniferous and mineralogical produc-
tions are extensive and various, the two grand general
divisions of its subterraneous contents being the igneous
and sedimentary rocks. The northern half of the land
consists almost entirely of the trap, or common green-
stone ; the other half is the coal-bed, which consists of
the splint coal, the parrot or cannel coal, the smithy
coal, and the Shotts-Iron-Works first and second coal.
In some parts, is a very fine ironstone, above the coal,
and in others, a considerable quantity of limestone,
119
lying at a great depth beneath the coal, with a succes-
sion of 147 different strata between them. There is an
abundant supply of fire-clay of various kinds, in the
carboniferous division of the parish, lying over the coal,
and large quantities of it are used, for making bricks for
blast and air furnaces ; one of the strata has been
wrought for a considerable period, and is several feet in
thickness, though the portion which is worked, in the
middle of the stratum, is not more than about three feet
deep.
Among the principal residences are, Murdostown
House, belonging to Sir T. Inglis Cochrane ; Easter Mof-
fat, a handsome modern edifice in the Elizabethan style ;
Craighead House, Fortissat, and Shotts House. Sub-
post-offices have been established at the villages of
Sallysburgh and Shotts-Works, and there are annual
fairs, chiefly for the sale of horses and cattle, on the
third Tuesday in June and November (O. S.), both of
ancient date, being held by a warrant granted by James
VII., in 1685, to the Duke of Hamilton. The parish
contains two iron-works, of which one, in the south-
eastern quarter, designated Shotts works, is not only
adapted for the smelting of iron-ore, for which there
are three furnaces, but has connected with it an
extensive foundry, and a large establishment where
steam-engines of a superior kind for both land and
water are constructed. At the other establishment,
called the Omoa iron-works, situated in the south-west
part of the parish, three furnaces are also in effective
operation. These works, which together employ about
1500 persons, have contributed to a large increase in the
population ; and by the circulation of several hundreds of
pounds weekl}T, in the form of wages, great changes and
improvements have taken place in the general appear-
ance of the neighbourhood, particularly through the
formation of roads and the cultivation of the land. The
ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of
Hamilton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the patron-
age belongs to the Duke of Hamilton, and the minister's
stipend is £'267. 11., with a substantial and commodious
manse, built in 1S38, and a glebe of nearly 44 acres, in
which are two seams of coal. The church, the position
of which is central, and on an elevated site, was built
in 1S20, and has 1200 free sittings. There is a place of
worship belonging to the Associate Synod ; also a paro-
chial school, in which the classics are taught, with the
usual branches of education, and of which the master
has a salary of £34. 4. 4., about £2S fees, and a house.
Belonging to the Shotts ironworks, is also a school;
another, called Murdostown school, has an endowment of
£19 per annum, assigned by Sir Thomas Inglis ; Hart-
hill school was endowed by the late James Wilson, Esq.,
with £500 ; and another is supported by Mrs. Robert
Haldane. There are two circulating libraries, in one of
which, at the Shotts works, the collection of books is
very superior ; and the poor have the benefit of a be-
quest of £500, left by Thomas Mitchell, a native of the
place. Gavin Hamilton, the historical painter; John
Miller, professor of law in the university of Glasgow,
well known to the public by several learned publica
tions, and who was buried at Blantyre, not far from
Shotts ; and Dr. Matthew Baillie, physician to George
III., and brother of Joanna Baillie, the authoress, were
all natives of the parish. The Rev. James Baillie, father
of the doctor, was minister of Shotts.
B E R V
BERV
Burgh Seal.
BERVIE, or INVER-
Chsv, BERVIE, a royal burgh, and
_>iMg/ parish, in the county of Kin-
^j£%ql cardine, S2| miles (N. N.
|S«;i/ E.) from Edinburgh ; con-
«|Jfetaining, with the village of
, '.fe| Gourdon, 1342 inhabitants.
'This place is named from
the small river Bervie, on
its north-eastern boundary,
which stream is so called
from an ancient British word
signifying a boiling or ebulli-
tion, a word exactly corresponding to the peculiar
nature of the water. The town appears to have been,
in early times, of importance, and to have attracted
some attention. The fine old castle of Hallgreen, which
is romantically situated on the shore, a little to the
south of the town, and has been recently completely
repaired with due attention to its original style, has a
date on the west front, which, though partially effaced,
is traced to the year 13?6. The walls of this building
are massive, and perforated with arrows, and it seems
to have been formerly surrounded by a moat, with a
drawbridge and a portcullis near the outer gate of the
court. Above one of the doors in the court, the date
of 16S7, with the initials of the proprietor of that period,
is still visible, and in one of the principal rooms, on
the stucco-ceiling, is a coat of arms, with the motto
spero mtliora, and the date 1683 ; on the old wainscots,
are some Dutch paintings, consisting of two landscapes
and a flower-piece. A spacious mansion, indicating, as
well as the castle, the ancient occupation of the
locality by important personages, and which is said to
have belonged originally to the marischals, and was
recently in the possession of the noble family of Arbuth-
nott, was removed about twenty years since, to make
way for improvements of building and agriculture ; and
several other old buildings are still pointed out as
the town residences of neighbouring lairds. There was
also, in former times, a religious establishment of White
friars ; and the discovery of some graves, in the con-
struction of a turnpike-road near a place called Friar's
Dubbs, is supposed to mark the spot where this mo-
nastic order had a burying-ground. At the time of the
Rebellion in 1745, the troops of the Duke of Cumber-
land, suspecting that the inhabitants of the neighbouring
parish of Benholme had transported provisions, by
means of the Bervie boats, for the use of the Pre-
tender's troops who were passing by sea, began to
destroy and plunder the village of Johnshaven, in Ben-
holme parish, and to burn the boats of the Bervie
fishermen. The minister of Bervie, Mr. Dow, however,
upon hearing of this, repaired to the bridge of Ben-
holme, three miles distant, where he met the army,
headed by the royal suite, and so satisfied the duke of
the loyalty of his parishioners, that he went with the
minister to his house, and became his guest for the
night. A singular occurrence took place here in the
year 1S0O, when a French privateer made its appearance
off the coast, and pursued several merchant vessels,
which were compelled to take shelter in the port at
Gourdon. A small body of volunteers belonging to the
place were immediately assembled, and marched down
to the beach in two divisions, to face the enemy ; and
120
one party, stationed among the rocks on the shore,
exchanged several rounds of musquetry with the guns
of the sloop, upon which the crew, suspecting that a
battery was about to be opened upon them by the other
division, who had proceeded in the direction of the old
castle of Hallgreen, crowded sail and made off.
The town is situated at the eastern extremity of the
parish, near the small bay of Bervie, on the shore of
the North Sea ; the approach on the north-east, is by
an elegant bridge over the river Bervie, of one arch, the
height of which from the river is about eighty feet. A
meal and barley mill stands on the haugh below the
bridge, and near it a small spinning-mill ; on the upper
side of the bridge, is a spinning-mill of three stories,
the first that was erected in Scotland for yarn and
thread. At the north entrance to the burgh, stands
the head inn, commanding a fine viewr of the scenery
above the bridge, the remote distance being adorned
with the old castle of Allardice, with its trees and
shrubbery, standing in the parish of Arbuthnott. Water
of the best description, from springs in the parish, is
conveyed into the town by leaden pipes, and deposited
in reservoirs of metal, for general use. The chief
manufacture is of the linens usually called duck and
dowlas, which is carried on to a considerable extent,
through the medium of agents, who superintend for
merchants in Aberdeen, Dundee, and Arbroath ; a kelp
manufactory existed for some time, but, like most
others of the same description, was given up when the
duty was taken off foreign barilla. The small port and
fishing village of Gourdon, upwards of a mile distant,
but within the parish, is the place where vessels trade,
which, however, are not chartered here, but have to
clear out at the custom-house in Montrose: two ship-
ping companies are connected with the place, and vessels
frequently come in with coal, lime, pavement, wood,
tiles, and slates, and sometimes Orkney and Shetland
cattle and ponies, and take, in return, ballast or grain,
which latter is the only article exported from Gourdon.
The principal fisheries consist of those of salmon, cod
and ling, and haddock ; the first of these is carried
on in the bay, commencing on the 2nd of February,
and ending on the 14th of September, and the fish
taken is considered of superior quality. The cod and
ling fishery begins on the 1st of October, and ends on
July 15th, and about 300 cwt. are shipped every year,
at Montrose, for the London market ; the haddocks
which are caught are dried and smoked, and consigned
by a company established here, to dealers in Glas-
gow and London, with whom an extensive traffic is
maintained. Six boats are also engaged in a turbot
and skate fishery, which begins on the 1st of May, and
ends on the 15th of July : a herring-fishery formerly
carried on, was some time since broken up, in conse-
quence of the shore being deserted by the fish. Crabs
and lobsters are taken in great numbers, among the
rocks near the bay, and there is a good supply of shrimps
on the sands. A market for corn was established a
few years ago, which commences at the close of har-
vest, and is open on every Wednesday afterwards for
six months ; it is in a very flourishing state, being
frequented by corn-merchants from Montrose, Brechin,
and Stonehaven, and by farmers and millers from all
the neighbouring parishes. About 40,000 quarters of
grain are purchased yearly, and the greater part of it
BERV
B E II V
shipped at Gourdon. Two fairs have long been held
annually for the sale of cattle, the first on the Thursday
before the 19th of May, and the other on the Thursday
before the 19th of September ; and in 1834, three addi-
tional markets were established, for the hiring of ser-
vants, and for the sale of cattle. That for cattle in
general, and for hiring servants, is on the Wednesday
before the 22nd of November, and those for fat and
other cattle are on the Wednesday before Christmas
(O. S.), and the Wednesday before the 13th of February.
The mail from Aberdeen to Edinburgh, and a coach
from Aberdeen to Perth, travel on the turnpike-road
that runs directly across the parish, and afford con-
siderable facility of intercourse.
Bervie was erected into a royal burgh in 1362, by
charter from King David II., who, having been forced
by stress of weather to land on a rock in the parish of
Kinneff, still called Craig-David, was received by the inha-
bitants of Bervie with so much kindness and hospitality,
that he raised the town to the dignity of a royal burgh,
as a mark of his gratitude and esteem. In the year
1595, James VI. renewed the charter, and confirmed
the privileges before granted. The public property is
distinctly marked out by the charter, comprehending
nearly the whole extent of the parish, but the lands
now belonging to the town, consist only of a piece of
moor, a few acres of haugh ground, and a range of braes
about a mile in extent; the revenue is about £120 a
year. The burgh is governed by a provost, three bailies,
a dean of guild, nine councillors, a treasurer, and a
clerk ; and, with Montrose, Brechin, Arbroath, and
Forfar, returns a member to parliament. The town-
hall is an edifice of two stories, the upper of which con-
sists of a hall and council-room, and the lower contains
the flesh and meal market, with a small arched vault
for the confinement of prisoners, which, however, is
very deficient as a place of security ; on the top of the
building, is a handsome belfry, with a bell which is
rung four times every day. Near the town-hall, is a
market-cross of great antiquity, formed of a column of
stone which measures about fourteen feet high, with a
ball on the summit, and a flight of steps surrounding
the base.
The parish, which was formerly joined to that of
Kinneff, but was separated from it about the time of the
Reformation, is of quadrilateral figure, and contains
about 1800 acres, of which 1222 are under cultivation,
about 70 planted, and 500 waste. It is bounded on the
south-east by the German Ocean, and embraces about
a mile and a half of coast, which, with the exception of
the part near the town, is covered with rocks, mostly
hidden at high water. The craig, where King David
landed, also called Bervie Brow, bordering on the parish,
is a conspicuous land-mark for mariners ; and Gourdon
Hill, within the parish, is also seen at a great distance.
The land in the interior is considerably diversified in its
surface, rising in a gradual manner from east to west,
and being marked by two ranges of hills, parallel to
each other. The ground is flat near the southern and
eastern boundaries, but the vicinity of the latter is orna-
mented with a small fertile valley, through which the
water of Bervie, well-stocked with trout, runs to the
sea, and on each side of which the land is elevated and
varied. The only streams are, the Bervie, which rises
in the Grampians, and falls into the sea at the eastern
Vol. I.— 121
extremity of the district ; and the burn of Peattie,
which runs from the north-east boundary, into the
Bervie, and, though small, is of very considerable utility
to those tenants through whose farms it pursues its
course.
The soil in the lower lands is a deep fertile loam,
resting on a gravelly subsoil ; the haugh lands adjoining
the sea consist of black earth, mixed with large quanti-
ties of pebbles, upon which they are said to be dependent
for their great fertility. In the upper district of the
parish, some of the land is a strong soil, upon a clay
bottom ; but upon the surface in the highest part, where
it reaches an elevation of about 400 feet, very little earth
is to be seen, the outside chiefly consisting of naked
rock. All kinds of corn and green crops are produced,
of excellent quality ; the plantations are flourishing,
though of recent growth, and comprise every variety of
trees peculiar to the country. The system of husbandry
is of the most approved kind, and the highest state of
cultivation is indicated by the abundance and quality of
the produce. Improvements, within the last few years,
have been carried on to a considerable extent, especially
in draining and reclaiming waste Isnd, and the farm-
houses and offices, which are roofed with slate or tiles,
are in good condition. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £3344. The predominating rock is sandstone,
which, in some places, is marked by veins of trap, be-
tween one and two feet in thickness. Boulders of quartz,
granite, mica-slate, gneiss, &c, are met with on the
shore, and near the village of Gourdon the beach con-
sists of masses of small pebbles of jasper, porphyry,
slate, and agate, of the last of which beautiful specimens
are sometimes found among the loose soil on the higher
grounds, as well as on the beach. Several quarries of
sandstone are wrought in the parish, supplying the ex-
cellent material from which the church was constructed,
as well as most of the new buildings in this and the
neighbouring parishes.
The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish of Bervie are
directed by the presbytery of Fordoun and synod of
Angus and Mearns ; the patronage belongs to the
Crown, and the minister's stipend is £141. 12., with a
manse, and a glebe worth £18 per annum. The church,
which was opened on the 1st of January, 1S37, and
contains 900 sittings, is an elegant structure, with a
square tower more than 100 feet in height, ornamented
with carved minarets. The site, which is gently elevated,
at a small distance from the street, is highly advanta-
geous, and the main entrance and imposing outer gate
heighten the general effect of an object that has greatly
contributed to improve the aspect of the town. There
are places of worship belonging to the Free Church and
Independents ; also a parochial school, in which the
classics, mathematics, and the usual branches of educa-
tion are taught, and of which the master has a salary of
£29. 18. 9., with an allowance of £2. 2. 9. in lieu of a
garden, and between £15 and £20 a year fees. A bequest
of £500 was left to the poor, who receive the interest,
by the late James Fai-quhar, Esq., of Hallgreen. The
burgh confers the title of Baron on Lord Arbuthnott,
whose ancestor, Sir Robert Arbuthnott, was knighted
for his faithful adhesion to the fortunes of Charles I.,
and was afterwards raised to the peerage by the style of
Baron Inverbervie and Viscount Arbuthnott, Nov. 16,
1641 : he died in the year 1655.
R
BERW
BERW
Burgh Seal.
BERWICK, NORTH, a
burgh, market-town, and
parish, in the county of Had-
IDIngton, 10 miles (N. byE.)
from Haddington, and 23
(N. E. by E.) from Edin-
| burgh ; containing 1708 in-
habitants, of whom 1028 are
in the burgh. This place
derives its name from its
situation at the mouth of the
Frith of Forth ; and though
its origin is involved in ob-
scurity, the manor appears to have belonged to the
earls of Fife, in whose possession it remained till near
the close of the fourteenth century, and of whom Dun-
can, who died in the year 1154, founded a convent here,
for sisters of the Cistercian order. This establishment
was amply endowed by the founder, and by numerous
benefactors, with lands in the counties of Berwick, Rox-
burgh, Edinburgh, and West Lothian; and continued
to flourish till the Reformation, when the site and
revenues were conferred on Sir Alexander Home, of
North Berwick, by James VI. After the death of Isa-
bel, the last Countess of Fife, the manor passed into the
possession of William, Earl of Douglas, who, in 1373,
obtained from Robert II. a charter constituting this
place a royal burgh, with the privileges of a market and
port, with custom-house and other advantages. In
1455, the manor became forfeited to the crown, on the
attainder of James, Earl of Douglas, but was restored
by James III. to Archibald, Earl of Angus, the heir
male of the Douglas family, and erected into a free
barony, in his favour. After the grant of the monastery
and part of its lands to Sir Alexander Home, by James
VI., the barony, on the failure of that family, passed
into other hands, and in 1640, by act of parliament, was
confirmed to Sir William Dick, from whom it passed to
Sir Hew Dalrymple, lord president of the court of
session, and ancestor of the present proprietor.
The town is advantageously situated on the south
side of the Frith of Forth, near its influx into the sea,
and consists principally of two streets; one of these is
of considerable length, extending from east to west, and
is intersected, near its eastern extremity, by the other, a
shorter street, which is continued to the harbour. The
houses in the first are irregularly built, and many of
them of antique appearance, and those in the other
street are of a superior class, and mostly inhabited by
the gentry and more opulent families ; on both sides of
the latter street, are rows of trees, giving it a pleasant
and cheerful appearance, and the scenery surrounding
the town combines many interesting and picturesque
features. A subscription library has been established,
which is well supported, and contains a good collection ;
and a branch of the East Lothian Itinerating Library is
also stationed here. The waste or common lands on
the west of the town, are much frequented by the mem-
bers of a golf club, who hold meetings for the celebra-
tion of that game, which is also the favourite amusement
of the inhabitants. The only manufactory is a foundry
for the construction of steam-engines, machines for
making tiles for draining, and other articles. The
trade of the port consists mainly in the exportation of
grain, lime, and agricultural produce, chiefly for the
122
Newcastle and London markets ; and the importation
of coal, rape, and oil-cake, and crushed bones for
manure. There are nine vessels belonging to the port,
of the aggregate burthen of 568 tons, of which four
are employed in the foreign, and the rest in the coasting
trade ; the exportation of grain and lime has materially
decreased, but that of potatoes very much increased,
within the last few years. The harbour is spacious and
secure ; it is dry at low water, but is commodious,
and considerable sums have been expended on its
improvement. The fishing is conducted on a limited
scale. The market is chiefly for the supply of the
town and neighbourhood ; fairs are held in June and
November, and facility of communication with the ad-
jacent towns is maintained by good roads. The
inhabitants obtained their earliest charter in the
reign of Robert II., which was confirmed in 156S, by
James VI. ; and the government of the burgh is vested
in two bailies, a treasurer, and nine councillors, elected
according to the provisions of the act of the 3rd and
4th of William IV. The magistrates hold no regular
courts, but act as justices of the peace within the
royalty of the burgh ; all criminal jurisdiction is re-
ferred to the procurator-fiscal and sheriff of the county,
and petty misdemeanours are punished by temporary
confinement; a town officer is appointed by the magi-
strates, who also choose a town-clerk, and a shore-
master. The town-hall is a commodious building, and
there is a small prison. Since the Union, the burgh has
united with those of Haddington, Dunbar, Lauder,
and Jedburgh, in returning a member to the imperial
parliament ; and by the act of the 2nd and 3rd of
William IV., the right of election, previously vested in
the corporation and burgesses, was extended to the £10
householders, resident within the parliamentary limits
of the burgh. The bailies are the returning officers.
The surface of the parish is greatly varied ; a range
of rocks of various hues intersects it from east to west,
presenting in some parts a barren and rugged aspect,
and in others being clothed with wood. About half a
mile south of the town is a hill of conical form, called
North Berwick Law, crowning the summit of a gently
sloping eminence, and rising to an elevation of 940 feet
above the sea ; it was occupied as a signal station during
the war, and the remains of the buildings, which were
suffered to fall to decay, have the picturesque effect of
an ancient ruin. The hill is wooded near its base,
and the other parts of its surface, comprising an area
of nearly seventy acres, afford pasturage for sheep ; the
views from it are extensive, and strikingly diversified.
In the mouth of the Frith of Forth, and about a mile
and a half from the shore, is the well known rock called
the Bass, rising abruptly from the sea, in a circular
form, nearly a mile in circumference, to a height of
420 feet; it is of very rugged aspect, extremely pre-
cipitous on the north side, and on the south more
resembling a cone in form, and accessible only on the
south-east, where are two landing-places : about half
way up the steep, are the remains of an ancient chapel.
The rock is perforated, from the north-west to the
south-east, by a cavern, which is dry at full tide ; and
on the side commanding the landing-place, are the
remains of an old fortress, and of the dungeons for-
merly used for state prisoners, for which purpose it
was purchased from Sir Andrew Ramsay, in 1671. Its
BERW
BERW
surface is estimated at seven acres, and it forms an
object both of scenic and historical interest ; it is sup-
posed to have been the retreat of Baldred, the apostle
of East Lothian, in the sixth century; and in 1406,
was the temporary asylum of James I., in which he
was placed by his father, Robert III., previously to
his embarkation for France, to avoid the persecution
of his uncle, the Duke of Albany. During the time of
Charles II. it was a state prison for the confinement of
the covenanting ministers, many of whom died here ;
but at the Revolution of 16SS it ceased to be used for
such a purpose. This rock, which is let on lease to a
keeper, affords pasturage for sheep, which are in high
estimation ; and is frequented in great numbers by
Solan geese, which, when young, are taken by a hazard-
ous process, and conveyed to the opposite shore. Op-
posite to the town, and about a mile from the coast,
is the island of Cragleith, a barren rock, about a mile
in circumference, abounding with rabbits, and resorted
to by sea-fowl, of which the puffin is the most con-
spicuous. The coast of the parish is boldly rocky, and
indented with bays, of which one, of semicircular form,
reaches from the west of the harbour to Point Gar^ ;
and a still larger, about two miles to the east of the
town, and directly opposite to the Bass rock, called
Canty Bay, is the residence of the tenant of that rock
and his assistants. The shore, to the west, is a flat
sand ; and towards the east, a line of precipitate rocks,
terminating in a lofty eminence, on the summit of which
are the picturesque ruins of Tantallan Castle, noticed
hereafter.
The soil, though various, is generally fertile, and the
system of agriculture in a highly improved state ; the
whole number of acres is estimated at 3456, of which
32S0 are arable, about 170 in pasture and in woods and
plantations, and the remainder common. The chief
crops are, wheat, barley, oats, peas, beans, potatoes,
and turnips ; the principal manures are lime and rape-
cake ; furrow-draining has been extensively adopted,
and the farm buildings and offices are generally sub-
stantial and commodious. About 1000 sheep are an-
nually fed, and from 300 to 400 head of cattle, mostly
of the short-horned breed. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £12,967. The woods are chiefly ash,
elm, oak, beech, and plane. The substrata are mainly
trap, sandstone, and limestone ; the sandstone, which is
usually of a reddish hue, is frequently intersected with
strata of limestone. The rocks are principally of the
secondary formation ; the lower part of North Berwick
Law is trap tuffa, above which is a sonorous clinkstone,
and near the summit the height assumes the character
of amygdaloid ; the Bass rock is generally a fine
granular greenstone, abounding with felspar, and
strongly exhibiting the tabular structure. At North
Berwick Law, are extensive quarries of excellent
building-stone ; and at Rhodes, and on the Balgone
estate, limestone is quarried to a considerable extent.
North Berwick House is a fine mansion, erected in
1777, in grounds embellished with thriving plantations ;
Balgone and Rockville are also handsome mansions,
finely situated.
The parish appears to have existed from a very remote
period of antiquity, and its church was most probably
founded by St. Baldred ; on the foundation of the nun-
nery here, the church, with all its possessions,was given by
123
the founder to that establishment. The ecclesiastical
affairs of the parish are now under the superintend-
ence of the presbytery of Haddington and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale. The stipend of the incumbent
is £306. 2. 5., and the patronage is exercised by Sir
Hew Dalrymple, Bart. ; the manse is a substantial and
comfortable residence, built in 1S25, and pleasantly
situated on an eminence, and the glebe is valued at £35
per annum. The church, erected in 1770, on the site
of the former edifice, was, in 1819, thoroughly repaired,
and the interior renewed ; it is adapted for a congre-
gation of 550 persons, and has a spacious cemetery,
planted with stately avenues of ancient elms. There
are places of worship for members of the Free Church
and the United Associate Synod : the former was erected
with a view to honour the memory of the covenanters
imprisoned on the Bass rock, and the expense was
defrayed by a special subscription. The parochial
school is but indifferently attended ; the master has a
salary of £34. 4. 4|., with a house and garden ; the school
fees are very inconsiderable. A burgh school until
lately existed, endowed by the corporation, by whom the
master was appointed, and from whose funds his salary
was derived ; and on the lands of Tantallan is a sub-
parochial school. There are also, a considerable bequest
by Alexander Home, Esq., and a donation of £450, called
the Edwin fund, for the benefit of the poor. About a
quarter of a mile to the west of the town, are the
remains of the Cistercian abbey, beautifully situated on
an eminence planted with trees, but so greatly dila-
pidated as scarcely to convey a faint, idea of that once
venerable and stately edifice ; the vaults, which formed
the principal relic, were many years since destroyed.
Near the harbour, are the remains of what is supposed
to have been the ancient church, consisting chiefly of
the entrance doorway, which is still entire; the sea is
constantly encroaching upon the cemetery, and laying
bare the remains of bodies interred there. Three
miles to the east of the town, are the remains of the
old Castle of Tantallan, seated on a precipitous emi-
nence projecting into the sea ; the outer walls, of
hexagonal form, are of massive thickness, and above
the entrance is a sculptured stone shield, bearing the
device of its ancient proprietors, the Douglases. The
interior consists of numerous apartments, inaccessible
from the dilapidated state of the various staircases
which formerly afforded an approach ; and the vaults
contain many dark dungeons. The original foundation
of this castle is not distinctly ascertained ; it was
the stronghold of the Douglas family, on their obtaining
the barony of East Lothian, at the accession of Robert
II., and for centuries the seat of their power. It was
always regarded as impregnable, and was frequently
assaulted without effect ; it was finally besieged, and,
after an obstinate defence, taken by the forces under
Oliver Cromwell ; and, together with the lands, was sold
by the Marquess of Douglas to Lord President Dal-
rymple, by whom it was dismantled, and suffered to
fall into decay. About half a mile to the west of the
castle, is St. Baldred's well, a spring of excellent water.
Fenton Tower, an ancient edifice, of which only the bare
walls remain, is situated on a commanding eminence ;
and nearly adjoining, are the remains of the palace of
Sydserf, so called from St. Serf, the instructor of
Kentigern, whose retreat was in this place.
R2
BEKW
B'ERW
BERWICK - UPON-
TWEED, a port, borough,
market - town, parish, and
county of itself, 55 miles
(E. by S.) from Edinburgh,
and 334 (N. by W.) from
London ; containing 8484
inhabitants. The name of
this town, which Leland
supposes to have been origi-
nally Aberwick, from the
British terms, Aber, the
■drms. mouth of a river, and Wic,
a town, is by Camden and other antiquaries considered
as expressive merely of a hamlet, or granary, annexed
to a place of greater importance, such appendages being
usually in ancient records styled berewics, in which sense
of the term Berwick is thought to have obtained its
name, having been the grange of the priory of Colding-
ham, ten miles distant. The earliest authentic notice
of Berwick occurs in the reign of Alexander I., and in
that of Henry II. of England, to the latter of which
monarchs it was given up, with four other towns, by
William the Lion, in 11/6, as a pledge for the perform-
ance of the treaty of Falaise, by which, in order to
obtain his release from captivity after the battle of
Alnwick, in 1174, he had engaged to do homage to the
English monarch as lord paramount for all his Scottish
dominions. Richard I., to obtain a supply of money
for his expedition to the Holy Land, sold the vassalage
of Scotland for 10,000 marks, and restored this and the
other towns to William, content with receiving homage
for the territories only which that prince held in Eng-
land. King John, upon retiring from an unsuccessful
invasion of Scotland, burnt the town, upon which the
Scots almost immediately rebuilt it. In 1291, the
Commissioners appointed to examine and report on the
validity of the title of the respective claimants to the
crown of Scotland, met at Berwick, and pursued there
the investigation which led to the decision in favour of
John Baliol. Edward I., having compelled Baliol to
resign his crown, took the town by storm in 1296, upon
which a dreadful carnage ensued ; and here he received
the homage of the Scottish nobility, in the presence of a
council of the whole nation, and established a court of
exchequer for the receipt of the revenue of the kingdom
of Scotland. Wallace, in the following year, having
laid siege to the town, took, and for a short time re-
tained possession of it, but was unsuccessful in his
attempt upon the castle, which was relieved by the
arrival of a numerous army. Edward II., in prosecut-
ing the war against Scotland, assembled his army here
repeatedly, and made several inroads into the enemy's
territory. Robert Bruce obtained it in 1318, and hav-
ing razed the walls, and strengthened them with towers,
kept it, notwithstanding several attacks from Edward
II. and III., until it surrendered to the latter after the
celebrated battle of Hallidown Hill, within the borough,
which took place on the 19th of July, 1333. As a fron-
tier town, it was always the first object of attack on the
renewal of hostilities between the two kingdoms ; and,
after repeated surrenders and sieges, it was ceded to
Edward IV., from whom and his successors, as well as
from preceding kings of Scotland, including Bruce, it
received several charters and privileges, in confirmation
124
and enlargement of the charter granted by Edward I.,
in which the enjoyment of the Scottish laws as they
existed in the time of Alexander III. had been con-
firmed. After having been exposed, during the subse-
quent reigns, to the continued aggressions of the Scots
and the English, Elizabeth repaired and strengthened
the fortifications, and new walled part of the town :
the garrison which had for some time been placed in it,
was continued till the accession of James to the English
throne, when its importance as a frontier town ceased.
During the civil war in the reign of Charles I., it was
garrisoned by the parliament.
The town is pleasantly situated on the northern bank,
and near the mouth, of the river Tweed, the approach to
which, from the English side, is over a handsome stone
bridge of fifteen arches, built in the reigns of James I.
and Charles L, and connecting it with Tweedmouth on
the south. The streets, with the exception of St. Mary-
gate, usually called the High-street, Castlegate, Ravens-
downe, the Parade, and Hide-hill, are narrow, but neatly
paved, and the houses are in general well built ; the
town is lighted with gas, and an abundant supply of
water is obtained by pipes laid down to the houses from
the public reservoirs, which are the property of the cor-
poration. Fuel is also plentiful, there being several
collieries on the south, and one on the north, side of
the river, within from two to four miles of the town.
A public library was established in 1812, and a reading-
room in 1S42; the theatre, a small neat building, is
opened at intervals, and there are assembly-rooms which
are used on public occasions. The new fortifications,
which are exceedingly strong, have displaced those of
more ancient date, of which only a few ruins now re-
main ; the ramparts afford an agreeable promenade, much
frequented by the inhabitants. The present works con-
sist of a rampart of earth, faced with stone : there are
no outworks, with the exception of the old castle, which
overlooks the Tweed, and is now completely in ruins,
and an earthen battery at the landing-place below the
Magdalen fields. The line of works towards the river is
almost straight, but to the north and east are five bas-
tions, to two of which there are powder magazines ; the
harbour is defended by a four and a six gun battery
near the governor's house ; and a saluting battery, of
twenty-two guns, commands the English side of the
Tweed. There are five gates belonging to the circum-
vallation, by which entrance is obtained. The barracks,
which were built in 1719, form a small quadrangle, neatly
built of stone, and afford good accommodation for 600
or 700 infantry. To these, was recently attached the
governor's house, for officers' barracks ; but that building
and the ground adjoining, formerly the site of the palace
of the kings of Scotland, were lately sold by the crown
to a timber- merchant, and are now occupied for the
purposes of his trade.
The port was celebrated in the time of Alexander III.,
for the extent of its traffic in wool, hides, salmon,
&c, which was carried on both by native merchants,
and by a company of Flemings settled here, the latter
of whom, however, perished in the conflagration of
their principal establishment, called the Red Hall, which
was set on fire at the capture of the town and castle by
Edward I. The port has, at present, a considerable
coasting trade, though it has somewhat declined since
the termination of the continental war : the exports
BE'RW
B E R W
arc, corn, wool, salmon, cod, haddock, herrings, and
coal ; and the imports, timber-deals, staves, iron, hemp,
tallow, and bones for manure. About 800 men are
employed in the fishery : the salmon and trout, of
which large quantities are caught, are packed in boxes
with ice, and sent chiefly to the London market; great
quantities of lobsters, crabs, cod, haddock, and herrings
are also taken, and a large portion forwarded, similarly
packed, to the metropolis. The principal articles of
manufacture, exclusively of such as are connected with
the shipping, are, damask, diaper, sacking, cotton-hosiery,
carpets, hats, boots, and shoes ; and about. 200 hands
are employed in three iron-foundries, all established
within the present century. Steam-engines, and almost
every other article, are made • the gas-light apparatus
for Berwick, Perth, and several other places, was manu-
factured here, and iron-works have lately been erected
at Galashiels, and at Jedburgh, by the same proprietors.
The harbour is naturally inconvenient, the greater
part of it being left dry at ebb-tide; it has, however,
been recently deepened by several feet, and vessels of
large tonnage come to the quay. The river is navigable
only to the bridge, though the tide flows for seven miles
beyond it : on account of the entrance being narrowed
by sand-banks, great impediments were occasioned to
the navigation till the erection, in 1S0S, of a stone pier on
the projecting rocks at the north entrance of the Tweed ;
it is about half a mile in length, and has a light-house
at the extremity. This, together with the clearing and
deepening of the harbour, has materially improved the
facilities of navigation, and been of great importance to
the shipping interest of the place. On the Tweed mouth
shore, for a short space, near the Carr Rock, ships of
400 or 500 tons' burthen may ride in safety. The smacks
and small brigs, formerly carrying on the whole traffic
of the place, are now superseded by large and well-fitted
steam-vessels, schooners, and clipper-ships. There are
numerous and extensive quays and warehouses, and a
patent-slip for the repair of vessels ; and the town will
soon have the further advantage of a railway to Edin-
burgh, in continuation of the projected railway along
the east coast hence to Newcastle-upon-Tyne. The
market, which is well supplied with grain, is on Satur-
day, and there is an annual fair on the last Friday in
May, for black cattle and horses ; statute-fairs are also
held on the first Saturday in March, May, August, and
November.
By charter of incorporation granted in the thirty-
eighth year of James VI., the government was vested in
a mayor, bailiffs, and burgesses ; and there were, besides,
an alderman for the year, a recorder, town-clerk, town-
treasurer, four serjeants-at-mace, and other officers ;
but the controul now resides in a mayor, six aldermen,
and eighteen councillors, together composing the coun-
cil, by whom a sheriff and other officers are appointed.
The borough is distributed into three wards, and its
municipal and parliamentary boundaries are the same ;
the mayor and late mayor are, pro tempore, justices of
the peace, and twelve other gentlemen have been ap-
pointed to act as such, under a separate commission.
Berwick was one of the royal burghs which, in ancient
times, sent representatives to the court of the four royal
burghs in Scotland, and on being annexed to the king-
dom of England, its prescriptive usages were confirmed
by royal charter. It sent representatives to parliament
125
in the reign of Henry VIII., since which time it has
continued to return two members. The right of elec-
tion was formerly vested in the freemen at large, in
number about 1140; now, the resident freemen and
certain householders are the electors, and the sheriff is
returning officer. The limits of the borough include the
townships of Tweedmouth and Spittal, lying on the
south side of the river. The corporation hold courts of
quarter-session for the borough, and a court of pleas
every alternate Tuesday, for the recovery of debts to
any amount ; and a court-leet is regularly held under
the charter, at which six petty constables are always
appointed. The town-hall is a spacious and handsome
building, with a portico of four massive circular columns
of the Tuscan order, a portion of the lower part of
which, called the Exchange, is appropriated to the use
of the poultry and butter market ; the first story con-
tains two spacious halls and other apartments, in which
the courts are held, and the public business of the cor-
poration transacted, and the upper part is used as a gaol.
The whole forms a stately pile of fine hewn stone, and is
surmounted with a lofty spire, containing a peal of eight
bells, which, on the sabbath- day, summon the inhabit-
ants to the parish church.
The living is a vicarage, within the jurisdiction of
the consistorial court of Durham, valued in the king's
books at £20 ; net income, £289 ; patrons and appro-
priators, the Dean and Chapter of Durham. The church
is a handsome structure in the decorated English style,
built during the usurpation of Cromwell, and is without
a steeple : one of the Fishbourn lectureships is esta-
blished here, the service being performed in the church.
There are places of worship for members of the Scottish
Kirk, the Associate Synod, the Scottish Relief, Particular
Baptists, Wesleyans, and Roman Catholics. A school
for the instruction of the sons of burgesses in English
and the mathematics, was founded and endowed by the
corporation, in 1798 ; to each department there is a
separate master, paid by the corporation, and the average
number of pupils is about 300. The burgesses have
also the patronage of a free grammar school, endowed in
the middle of the seventeenth century, by Sir William
Selby, of the Moat, and other charitable persons. The
Blue-coat charity-school was founded in 1/58, by Captain
Bolton, and endowed with £S00, since augmented with
several benefactions, especially with one of £1000 by
Richard Cowle, who died at Dantzic, in 1819 ; the whole
income is £155, which is applied to educating about 150
boys, of whom 40 are also clothed. A pauper lunatic
house was erected in 1S13, and.a dispensary was esta-
blished in 1814. A considerable part of the corpora-
tion land is allotted into "meadows" and " stints," and
given rent-free to the resident freemen and freemen's
widows, according to seniority, for their respective
lives. Among the most important bequests for the
benefit of the poor, are, £1000 by Richard Cowle, £1000
by John Browne, in 175S, and £28 per annum by Sarah
Foreman, in 1S03. Some remains of the ancient castle
of Berwick are still visible, and of a pentagonal tower
near it ; also of a square fort in Magdalen fields, and
some entrenchments on Hallidosvn Hill ; but all ves-
tiges of the ancient churches and chapels of the town,
the Benedictine nunnery, said to have been founded by
David, King of Scotland, and of the monasteries of
Black, Grey, White, and Trinitarian friars, and of three
BERW
BIGG
or four hospitals, have entirely disappeared. During the
reigns of William the Lion, and of Edward I., II., and
III., and other Scottish and English monarchs, Berwick
was a place of mintage ; and several of its coins are still
preserved. There is a mineral spring close to the town,
which is occasionally resorted to by invalids.
BERWICKSHIRE, a maritime county, in the south-
east of Scotland, bounded on the north by the German
Sea and Haddingtonshire ; on the east and north-east, by
the German Sea ; on the south by the river Tweed, which
separates it from the English counties of Durham and
Northumberland ; and on the west and south-west, by the
counties of Edinburgh and Roxburgh. It lies between
55° 36' 30" and 55° 58' 30" (N. Lat.), and 1° 41' and
2° 34' (W. Long.), and is about 35 miles in length, and
22 miles in extreme breadth ; comprising about 446£
square miles, or 285,760 acres, and 7408 inhabited
houses, and 381 uninhabited ; and containing a popu-
lation of 34,438, of whom 16,55S are males, and 17.SS0
females. The county derives its name from the ancient
town of Berwick, formerly the county town, and was
originally inhabited by the Ottadini ,- after the Roman
invasion, it formed part of the province of Valentia, and
though not the site of any station of importance, it is
intersected by several Roman roads. After the de-
parture of the Romans from Britain, this part of the
country was continually exposed to the predatory in-
cursions of the Saxons, by whom, about the middle of
the sixth century, it was subdued, and annexed to the
kingdom of Northumbria, of which it continued to form
part till the year 1020, when it was ceded to Malcolm
II., King of Scotland, by Cospatrick, Earl of Northum-
berland, whom that monarch made Earl of Dunbar.
From its situation on the borders, the county was the
scene of frequent hostilities, and an object of continual
dispute between the Scots and English. In 1 176, it
was surrendered by William the Lion to Henry II. of
England, by whom he had been made prisoner in battle,
as security for the performance of the treaty of Falaise,
on failure of which it was for ever to remain a part of the
kingdom of England; but on payment of a ransom, it
was restored to the Scots by Richard I. In 1216, it
suffered greatly from the army of John, who, to punish
the barons of Northumberland, for having done homage
to Alexander, King of Scotland, burnt the towns of Rox-
burgh, Mitford, and Morpeth, and laid waste nearly the
whole county of Northumberland. During the disputed
succession to the Scottish throne, after the death of
Alexander III., this district suffered materially from the
contending parties; and in 1291, the town of Berwick
was surrendered to Edward I. of England, who, as lord
paramount of Scotland, received the oaths of fealty and
allegiance from many of the Scottish nobility. The
inhabitants soon after revoking their allegiance to the
English crown, Edward advanced with his army to Ber-
wick, which he took by assault, and held a parliament
in the castle, in 1296, when he received the oath of
allegiance; and in the year following, he made Berwick
the metropolis of the English government in Scotland.
The town was restored to the Scots in 13 IS, but, after
the death of James III., was finally ceded by treaty to the
English, in 14S2; in 1551, the town, with a district adjoin-
ing, called the liberties of Berwick, was made independent
of both kingdoms, and invested with peculiar privileges.
After Berwick ceased to be the county town, the general
126
business of the county was transacted at Dunse or
Lauder, till the year 1596, when Greenlaw was selected
by James VI., as the most appropriate for the purpose;
and that arrangement was ratified by act of parliament,
in 1600.
The county was anciently included in the diocese of
St. Andrew's ; it is now almost wholly in the synod of
Merse and Teviotdale, and comprises several presby-
teries, and thirty-four parishes. Exclusively of the sea-
port of Berwick-upon-Tweed, which has a separate juris-
diction, it contains the county town of Greenlaw, the
royal burgh of Lauder, and the towns of Dunse, Cold-
stream, and Eyemouth, with the villages of Ayton,
Gourdon, Earlstoun, Chirnside, Coldingham, and others.
Under the act of the 2nd and 3rd of William IV., the
county returns one member to the imperial parliament.
The surface varies in the different districts into which
the county is naturally divided, and which are the
Merse, Lammermoor, and Lauderdale ; the Merse is a
level district, extending for nearly twenty miles along
the north bank of the Tweed, and about ten miles in
breadth, and is richly fertile, well inclosed, and pleas-
ingly diversified with gentle eminences, and enriched
with plantations. The district of Lammermoor, nearly
of equal extent, and parallel with the Merse, is a hilly
tract, chiefly adapted for pasture; the district of Lauder,
to the west of the two former, is diversified with hills,
affording good pasturage for sheep, principally of the
black-faced breed, and a coarse breed of black-cattle,
and has fertile vales of arable land, yielding abundant
crops. The highest hills are in the Lammermoor range,
varying from 1500 to 1650 feet in height : the principal
rivers are, the Tweed, which forms the southern boun-
dary of the county ; the Whiteadder, the Blackadder,
the Leader, and the Eden, which are tributaries to the
Tweed ; and the river Eye, which falls into the sea at
Eyemouth. The coast is bold and rocky, rising pre-
cipitously to a great height, and is almost inaccessible,
except at Eyemouth and Coldingham Bay, and in some
few points where there are small beaches of sand or
gravel near the rocks. The minerals found are not of
any importance ; some coal has been discovered in the
parishes of Mordington and Cockburnspath ; limestone,
marl, and gypsum have been quarried, but to no great
extent, and freestone and whinstone are abundant. The
rateable annual value of the county is £252,945. The
chief seats are, Thirlstane Castle, Dryburgh Abbey, Mel-
lerstain, Hirsel, Marchmont, Lady Kirk, Blackadder,
Dunse Castle, Kelloe, Mertoun, Spottiswood, Ayton,
Dunglass, Wedderburn, Paxton, Langton, Kimmergham,
and Nisbet.
BIGGA ISLE, in the parishes of Delting and Yell,
county of Shetland. It is a small isle, lying between
the mainland of Shetland and the island of Yell, in the
sound of Yell ; half of it belongs to the parish of Yell,
and half to that of Delting. The inhabitants consist of
a few families who pasture black-cattle and sheep.
BIGGAR, a parish and market-town, in the Upper
ward of the county of Lanark, 12 miles (S. E.) from
Lanark, on the road from Dumfries to Edinburgh ; con-
taining 1865 inhabitants, of whom 1395 are in the town.
The original name of this place, as it occurs in several
ancient charters, is generally written Biger, or Bigre,
and is supposed to have been derived from the nature
of the ground on which the castle of the family of
BIGG
BIGG
Biggar was situated (in the centre of a soft morass),
and to have been thence applied to the whole of the
parish ; and from the same circumstance, the castle
assumed the name of Boghall. The manor was granted
by David I. to Baldwin, a Flemish leader, whose de-
scendants still retain the surname of Fleming ; they
appear to claim a very remote antiquity, and the name
of Baldwin de Biger appears in testimony to a charter,
prior to the year 1 1 60. Some accounts, chiefly tradi-
tional, are still retained of a battle fought at this place,
between the English forces under Edward I., and the
Scots commanded by Wallace, in which the former were
defeated ; and though not authenticated by any his-
torian of acknowledged authority, the probability of the
event is partly strengthened by the frequent discovery
of broken armour in a field near the town ; the name of
a rivulet called the Red Syke, running through the sup-
posed field of battle, and so named from the slaughter
of the day ; and the evident remains of an encampment
in the immediate neighbourhood. On this cccasion,
Wallace is said to have gained admission into the
enemy's camp, disguised as a dealer in provisions, and,
after having ascertained their numbers and order, to
have been pursued in his retreat to the bridge over
Biggar water, when, turning on his pursuers, he put
the most forward of them to death, and made his escape
to his army, who were encamped on the heights of
Tinto. A wooden bridge over the Bis;o;ar is still called
the " Cadger's Brig ;" and on the north side of Bizzy-
berry, are a hollow in a rock, and a spring, which are
called respectively Wallace's seat and well. The Scot-
tish army under Sir Simon Fraser is said to have ren-
dezvoused here, the night previous to the victory of
Roslin, in 1302 ; and Edward II., on his invasion of
Scotland, in 1310, spent the first week of October at this
place, while attempting to pass through Selkirk to Ren-
frew. In 1651, after Cromwell's victory at Perth, the
Scottish army, passing by Biggar, summoned the place,
at that time garrisoned by the English, to surrender ;
and in 1715, Lockhart, of Carnwath, the younger, raised
a troop for the service of the Pretender, which, after
remaining for some time here, marched to Dumfries,
and joined the forces under Lord Ken mure.
The town is finely situated on the Biggar water, by
which it is divided into two very unequal parts, the smaller
forming a beautiful and picturesque suburb, communi-
cating with the town by a neat bridge ; the houses in
this suburb are built on the sloping declivities, and on
the brow, of the right bank of the rivulet, and have
hanging gardens. The town consists of one wide street,
regularly built, and from its situation on rising ground,
commands an extensive and varied view ; most of the
houses are of respectable appearance, and within the
last few years, several new and handsome houses have
been erected. There is a scientific institution, founded
in the year 1839. A public library was established in
1791, which contains about 800 volumes; another was
opened in 1S00, which has a collection of more than
500 ; and a third, exclusively a theological library, was
founded in 1807, and has about 700 volumes. A public
newsroom was opened in 182S; but it met with little
support, and has consequently been discontinued. The
trade consists chiefly in the sale of merchandise for the
supply of the parish and surrounding district, and in
the weaving of cloth, in which latter about 200 of the
127
inhabitants are employed. A branch of the Commercial
bank was established in 1833, and a building erected
for its use, which adds much to the appearance of the
town ; and a branch of the Western Bank of Scotland
has since been established. A savings' bank was opened
in 1832, for the accommodation of the agricultural
labourers, of whom there are about 460 depositors ; and
the amount of their deposits is about £3500. The mar-
ket is on Thursday ; and fairs are held at Candlemas,
for hiring servants; at Midsummer, for the sale of wool;
and on the last Thursday in October (O. S.), for horses
and black-cattle ; all of which are numerously attended.
The inhabitants, in 1451, received from James II. a
charter, erecting the town into a free burgh of barony,
and granting a weekly market and other privileges,
which grants were renewed, at intervals, down to the
year 1662.
The parish, which borders on the county of Peebles,
is about 6| miles in length, and varies very greatly in
breadth, being of triangular form, and comprising about
5850 Scottish acres, chiefly arable land. The surface is
generally hilly, though comprising a considerable pro-
portion of level ground, particularly towards the south,
where is a plain of large extent ; the hills are of little
height, and the acclivities, being gentle, afford excellent
pasture. The principal stream is the Biggar water,
which rises on the north side of the parish, and, after a
course of nearly two miles, intersects the town, and
flows through a fine open vale, to the river Tweed ; the
Candy burn rises in the north-east portion of the parish,
which it separates from the county of Peebles, and
falls, after a course of three miles, into the Biggar
water. The scenery is highly diversified ; and the ap-
proach to the town, by the Carnwath road, presents to
the view a combination of picturesque features. The soil
is various ; about. 1000 acres are of a clayey nature,
on a substratum of clay or gravel ; 2000 are a light
black loam, resting upon whinstone, and the remainder
sandy, and black loam inclining to peat-moss. The
system of agriculture is greatly improved, and green
crops have been introduced with success ; the chief
produce consists of oats and barley ; much attention is
paid to the management of the dairy, and to the im-
provement of live stock. The cattle are mostly a cross
between the native and the Ayrshire breed, which latter
is every day becoming more predominant ; many sheep
are pastured on the hills and acclivities, and the prin-
cipal stock regularly reared are of the old Tweeddale
breed. Great progress has been made in draining and
inclosing the lands ; two mills for oats and barley have
been erected, and there are not less than twenty-five
threshing-machines, of which one, constructed by Mr.
Watts, has the water-wheel 50 feet below the level of
the barn, and 120 feet distant from it, the power being
communicated to the machinery by shafts acting on an
inclined plane. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £7329. About 750 acres are in plantations, chiefly
Scotch fir, in the management of which much improve-
ment has been made by the introduction of a new
method of pruning ; and on the several farmsteads, are
numerous fine specimens of the hard-wood timber,
which is better adapted to the soil, and is consequently
growing gradually into use, in the more recent planta-
tions. Of these, the ash and elm seem to thrive best ;
and the beech and the plane also answer well. Among
BIGG
B I R N
the various mansions are, Edmonston, a castellated
structure, pleasingly situated in a secluded vale near the
east end of the parish ; Biggar Park and Cambus-Wal-
lace, both handsome residences, in the immediate vici-
nity of the town ; and Carwood, a spacious mansion,
recently erected, and surrounded by young and thriving
plantations.
The origin of the parish is rather obscure ; but it
appears that a chaplaiucy was founded here, in expia-
tion of the murder of John, Lord Fleming, chamberlain
of Scotland, who was, in 1524, assassinated by John
Tweedie, of Drummelzier, his son, and other accom-
plices. For this purpose, an assessment in lands was
given to Malcolm, Lord Fleming, son of the murdered
lord, with £10 per annum granted in mortmain, for the
support of a chaplain, to pray and sing mass for the
soul of the deceased in the parish church of Biggar,
which Malcolm, in 1545, made collegiate, and endowed
for a provost, eight canons and prebendaries, and four
choristers, with six aged poor men. On this occasion,
the church of Thankertoun, which had previously been
bestowed on the abbey of Kelso, by one of his predeces-
sors, was given up to Malcolm, by the monks, and
annexed to the collegiate church. The parish is now
in the presbytery of Biggar and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale, and in the patronage of the family of Fle-
ming ; the minister's stipend is £263. 4. 1 ., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per annum. The
church, erected in 1545, was formerly an elegant and
venerable cruciform structure in the later English style,
with a tower which was not finished, as the Reform-
ation occurred while the building was in progress.
This structure, though complete in every other respect,
and uninjured by time, has been dreadfully mutilated :
the western porch, the vestry communicating with the
chancel, and having a richly-groined roof, the buttresses
that supported the north wall of the nave, and the
arched gateway leading into the churchyard, though
perfect])'- entire, and beautiful specimens of architecture,
were all taken down about fifty years since, and the
materials sold for £7, to defray some parochial ex-
penses. The interior of the church underwent, at the
same time, a similar lamentable devastation ; the organ-
gallery was removed, and the richly-groined roof of
the chancel, which was embellished with gilt tracery,
was destroyed, and replaced with lath and plaster, for
uniformity. The church has lately received an addition
of 120 sittings, by the erection of a gallery ; it has been
also newly-seated, and affords considerable accommo-
dation. There are places of worship for Burghers, and
those of the Relief Church. The parochial school affords
education to about ISO scholars; the master has a
salary of £34. 4. 4., about £75 fees, and a house and
garden.
At the western extremity of the town, is a large
mound, more than 300 feet in circumference at the base,
150 feet on the summit, and 36 feet in height, supposed
to have been, in ancient times, a seat for the adminis-
tration of justice ; it appears to have been also used as
a beacon, and to have formed one of a chain extending
across the vale between the Clyde and the Tweed.
There are several remains of encampments, of which
one, about half a mile from the town, is 180 feet in cir-
cumference, defended by a deep moat and double ram-
part; and near Candy bank, is another, of oval form.
128
On the banks of Oldshields, are some Druidical remains
consisting of four upright stones, near which arrow-
heads of flint have been found ; and on the lands of
Carwood, two Roman vessels of bronze were discovered
in a moss ; one, holding about two quarts, has a handle
and three legs, and the other, less elegant, in form, holds
about eight quarts. The venerable remains of the castle
of Boghall, which gave so great an interest to the sce-
nery of the beautiful vale in which they were situated,
have been almost demolished, for the sake of the stone ;
and little more is left than a small angular tower, which
serves to mark the site. The late Dr. A. Brown, Pro-
fessor of Rhetoric in the University of Edinburgh, and
Robert Forsyth, Esq., an eminent advocate, were natives
of the parish ; and many of the landed proprietors have
been eminently distinguished in the annals of their
country.
BILSDEAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Oldham-
stocks, county of Haddington, 2| miles (N. E.) from
Oldhamstocks ; containing 59 inhabitants. It is seated
on the sea-shore, and is chiefly inhabited by fishermen,
whose principal employment is taking lobsters for the
supply of the London market; various other kinds of
fish are also caught here, whereof the most common are
turbot, cod, haddock, and herrings. Several boats
belong to the creek, carrying four men each.
BIRDSTONE, a village, in the parish of Campsie,
county of Stirling, 1 mile (N.) from Kirkintilloch ;
containing 100 inhabitants. It lies east of the road
from Kirkintilloch to Campsie, and a little west of
a small stream that falls into the Kelvin water, on the
confines of the county.
BIRGHAM, a village, in the parish of Eccles,
county of Berwick, 2| miles (W.) from Coldstream ;
containing 241 inhabitants. This is a small ancient
village, seated on the north bank of the Tweed, opposite
to Carbarn, in Northumberland ; and the road from
London to Edinburgh, by way of Kelso, and that from
Kelso to Berwick, pass through the place. It is noted for
several events connected with history, among which was
the meeting, in 1291, of the twelve competitors for the
Scottish throne, with the commissioners of Edward I.,
of England, to represent their claims, acknowledging
his paramount authority over Scotland. One of two
burial-places in the parish is situated here.
BIRNIE, a parish, in the county of Elgin, 3 miles
(S.) from Elgin ; containing 407 inhabitants. This
place is said by some to have been the site of the first
cathedral of the diocese of Moray ; and it is probable
that Simeon de Tonei, one of the bishops, was buried
here, in 1184. The parish is nearly of an oblong figure,
extending about seven miles in length, and one and
a half in mean breadth, and contains nearly S000
acres, of which about 2000 are under tillage, 304 under
wood, and the remainder waste. It is separated from
the parish of Knockando, on the south, by the junction
of the parishes of Dallas and Rothes, and is bounded
on all the other sides by the parish of Elgin. It lies
on the north side of the high ground which rises be-
tween the Spey and the flat of Moray. The surface is
irregular and abrupt, is marked with several ravines
and high hills covered with heath, and has in general a
bleak and rugged appearance ; it is also intersected with
the three rivulets, Lennock, Barden, and Rashcrook,
which flow into the Lossie, a stream containing abun-
B 1 R S
B I IIS
dance of common trout. The arable soil is generally
of a gravelly or sandy kind, occasionally clayey, and by
the sides of the Lossie and of the rivulets it is loamy ;
other plots are of a mossy or moory nature. All
kinds of grain are produced, as well as potatoes and
turnips, with a small quantity of flax. The cattle, which
have been lately much improved, are usually a cross
between the low-country cows of Moray and West
Highland bulls ; the sheep are chiefly Cheviots, and the
horses, though small, are active, and well adapted for
ploughing the light shallow land of which the parish
mainly consists. The improved system of agriculture
is followed, and very considerable advances have re-
cently been made. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £1249. The chief rocks in the district are
sandstone and gneiss, with a small proportion of slate.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the pres-
bytery of Elgin and synod of Moray ; the patronage
belongs to the Earl of Moray, and the minister has a
stipend of £156. S. 4., a portion of which is received
from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe of. about
eight acres of good land. The church is a very ancient
structure, repaired in 1317, with accommodation for
250 persons, and contains a fine Saxon arch, separating
the choir from the body of the edifice ; also a stone
baptistery, and an old bell composed of silver and
copper, of an oblong figure, which tradition asserts to
have been made at Rome, and consecrated by the pope.
There is a parochial school, the master of which has
a salary of £26, with a house and garden, and about
£4 fees ; and the poor have the benefit of a bequest
producing about £3 per annum. About a mile east
from the church, on the side of the road, is a stone
called the " Bible Stone," having the figure of a book
distinctly engraven on it ; and in the corner of a field once
called Castlehill, the foundations of what is supposed to
have been the ancient episcopal palace were dug up
about half a century ago.
BIRSAY and HARRAY, a parish, in the county
of Orkney; containing 2406 inhabitants, of whom
1634 are in Birsay, and 772 in Harray. These two
ancient parishes, which were united under the earls
of Orkney, originally constituted a province or district
called " Bergisherard," signifying, in the Norwegian
language, lands appropriated to the diversion of hunting ;
and previously to the rise of Kirkwall, here was the
residence of the earls, and the bishops, of Orkney.
There are still considerable remains of the episcopal
palace, occupying a beautiful site near the sea ; by
whom it was originally built, is not distinctly known,
but numerous additions were made to it, from time to
time, by the Sinclairs, who were styled indifferently
princes and counts of Orkney. It was subsequently
enlarged and improved by Robert Stuart, brother of
Mary, Queen of Scots ; and above the principal entrance,
was a stone bearing an inscription to that effect, with
armorial bearings, and the motto Sic Fult, Est, et Erit ;
which stone passed into the possession of the Earl of
Morton, to whom the lands were sold, and from whom
they were afterwards purchased by Sir Lawrence Dun-
das, ancestor of the Earl of Zetland, the present pro-
prietor. The parish is about eleven miles in extreme
length, and eight miles in extreme breadth, and is
bounded on the north and west by the sea; on the
north and cast, by the parishes of Evie, Rendal, and
Vol. I.— 129
Firth ; and on the south and west, by the parish of
Sandwick, and Loch Stenness. The surface, towards
the west, is for some distance level, but towards the
east more elevated, rising into hills of considerable
height. It is diversified with several lakes of great
beauty, abounding with trout and other fresh-water fish,
and frequented by numerous kinds of aquatic fowl ;
and the lands are intersected by various rivulets and
smaller burns, which, for want of bridges, interrupt the
communication.
The soil is generally fertile, though varying in different
parts of the district ; that of the lands called the ba-
rony of Birsay, is a mixture of clay and sand, producing
luxuriant crops of oats and barley ; in other parts, a
deep black loam prevails, producing grain of good
quality, and also potatoes and turnips. Sea- weed, of
which abundance is found on the coast, is used for
manure ; and the system of agriculture, though well
adapted to the present state of the farms, might, under
a different tenure, be very greatly improved. The sub-
strata are principally limestone and clay-slate, the latter
of which is quarried for pavements and roofing ; build-
ing-stone is also found here, and in some parts of the
district marble and alabaster have been discovered.
The manufacture of straw-plat is carried on extensively,
affording employment to nearly 450 of the female
population ; the males are employed in agriculture and
in the fisheries. There are twenty boats belonging to
Birsay, which, during the season, are engaged in the
cod and lobster fishery ; and five are employed in the
herring-fisheries at Stronsay and Wick, whence they
generally return with remunerating success. The coast,
however, is rocky and precipitous ; and the want of
a convenient harbour, is unfavourable to the extension
of the fisheries of the place. Fairs for cattle and horses
are hold annually.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintend-
ence of the presbytery of Cairston and synod of Orkney ;
the minister's stipend is £2 IS. 6. S., including an
allowance of £S. 6. S. for communion elements, with a
manse situated at Birsay, and two glebes valued toge-
ther at £21 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Zetland.
The church of Birsay is an ancient building, enlarged
in 1760, and containing 565 sittings : the church of
Harray, a neat plain building, erected in 1S36, contains
400 sittings. There are places of worship for mem-
bers of the Free Church, the Original Seceding Congre-
gation, and Independents. The parochial school of
Birsay is well attended ; the master has a salary of
£26, with a dwelling-house and garden. A school at
Harray, also, is supported by the General Assembly,
who pay the teacher a salary of £25, with a house and
garden, and other perquisites ; and there is a parochial
library, containing nearly ISO volumes, chiefly on re-
ligious subjects. About half a mile from the site of
the episcopal palace, is the brough of Birsay, a portion
of high land at the north-western extremity of the
parish, formed into an island by the action of the sea,
and to which access by land is obtained only at low
water. From some remains of walls, there appears to .>
have been an ancient fortress on the spot, though when
or by whom erected is not known ; a chapel dedicated
to St. Peter, was subsequently erected on the site, of
which the only remains are part of a wall and one of
the windows. There are also remains of ancient Picts'
S
BIRS
BISH
houses, and upright stones, in various parts of the
parish.
BIRSE, a parish, in the district of Kincardine
O'Neil, county of Aberdeen, 2f miles (E. S. E.) from
Aboyne ; containing 1295 inhabitants. This place was
formerly called Press, a word of Gaelic origin, signifying
a wood or thicket, and most probably used in reference
to the extensive forest and woods in the district. The
parish is situated at the south-eastern extremity of the
county, and approaches in form to a square, varying
in length from eight to ten miles, and in breadth
from six to nine or ten miles. It comprises upwards of
40,000 acres, of which about 3360 are cultivated, nearly
4000 under wood and plantations, and the remainder
wet and rocky, a large part of which is too rugged to
be brought under the plough. The surface consists of
hills and mountains, with three valleys stretching east-
ward. The valley on the south is the largest ; and
though narrow, bleak, and wild at its western extremity,
where it is called the forest of Birse, about five miles
further it begins to expand, and continues to improve
in its scenery from this point to its termination, at
the union of the Feugh with the Dee, near the village
of Banchory, in Kincardineshire. The former of these
rivers waters it for a distance of many miles, and much
adorns the rich and beautiful scenery in the midst of
which it takes its departure from the parish. The
valley called Glen-Chatt is smaller than the former,
and is watered by the Cattie burn ; and the third strath
forms a portion of the vale of the Dee, but is divided
into two parts by thejjburn of Birse, and ornamented in
its centre by the church and manse. The Grampians
traverse the south of the parish, where also runs the
river Aven, and one of the range, called Mount Geauach,
rises between 2000 and 3000" feet in height, and gives
to the locality a wild, and in some parts a romantic,
appearance ; the Dee runs along the northern boundary,
and unites, with the peculiar features of that portion
of the parish, to render its scenery most attractive.
The moors abound with grouse and a great variety
of wild-fowl, and the rivers and mountain streams with
trout ; the Dee has also salmon, grilse, eel, and pike,
and the lovers of angling find here every facility for
their favourite amusement. The soil is a light loam,
in many parts rather gravelly, and takes its leading
character from its mixtures of decomposed granite and
sand, which are sometimes clayey ; oats and barley are
the usual grain cultivated, and potatoes and turnips,
with grass for pasture and hay, also form a consider-
able part of the produce. The sheep are the black-faced ;
the cattle are much mixed, and in general small and
of inferior quality, but the kind which most prevails is
the Aberdeenshire polled and horned ; the state of
husbandry has been 'considerably improved within the
last twenty years, the rotation of crops having been
introduced, with a few other modern usages. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £4106. The rocks
comprise granite, a blue stone called heathen stone, and
limestone, of which last there are two or three quarries
in operation, the produce being used generally for
agricultural purposes ; the granite is found in large
blocks scattered on or near the surface, and is used for
building, without the trouble and expense of quarrying,
and a fine specimen of red porphyry is found in the
river Dee.
130
The mansion of Finzean, on the south side of the
parish, and in the vale of the Feugh, is an ancient
structure, built in the form of three sides of a square ;
that of Ballogie, situated in the centre of the district, is
a neat and comfortable residence, partly ancient, and
partly modern, and, like the former, surrounded with
well-laid out grounds and thriving plantations. The
male population are chiefly engaged in husbandry,
and many of the females in knitting worsted stockings,
in the winter season, for which most of the wool pro-
duced here is purchased, carded and spun, in summer.
A suspension-bridge over the Dee, on the west, was
built by the Earl of Aboyne, in 1S28, and rebuilt in
1S30, in consequence of its destruction by the flood ;
a communication is thus opened with the north, and
another bridge over the Dee, called the Bridge of Potarch,
built in 1813, continues the road from Brechin to
Huntly and Inverness, over the Cairn o' Mount and
Grampians : the turnpike-road on the south side of the
Dee, from Aberdeen to Braemar, also opens an im-
portant means of intercourse. Four fairs are held at
Bridge of Potarch, in April, May, October, and Novem-
ber, for cattle, sheep, horses, coarse linen, sacking, &c,
that in October being the principal. The parish is in
the presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil and synod of
Aberdeen, and in the patronage of the Crown ; the
minister's stipend is £158. 7- 4., a portion of which is
received from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe
of four acres. The church, inconveniently situated in
the north-western part of the parish, is a neat substan-
tial edifice, erected in 1779, and capable of accom-
modating between 500 and 600 persons. There is a
Roman Catholic chapel near Ballogie. The parochial
school affords instruction in the usual branches ; the
master has a salary of £28, with a house, £6. 10. fees,
and an allowance from the Dick bequest. Another
school is supported by money derived from the fund of
Dr. Gilbert Ramsay, who was rector of Christ-church,
Barbadoes, and left £500 for the endowment of a free
school in this, his native parish, £500 to the poor, and
a sum for the erection of a bridge over the Feugh ; a
religious library was established in 1S29, and a savings'
bank in 1S37. The chief relic of antiquity is a cas-
tellated ruin called " the Forest," said to have been
erected by Bishop Gordon, of Aberdeen, for a hunting
seat.
BISHOPMILL, a village, in the parish of New
Spynie, county of Elgin ; containing 755 inhabitants.
It is a suburb of Elgin, from which town it is distant
about half a mile, and is on the north side of the Los-
sie, the former course of which river was nearer the town
than the present course. The village is included within
the parliamentary limits of the borough of Elgin, the
cross of Bishopmill being the extreme northern boun-
dary.
BISHOPSBRIDGE, a hamlet, in the parish of
Cadder, Lower ward of the county of Lanark ; con-
taining 213 inhabitants. It is situated in the western
part of the parish, and on the road from Glasgow to
Kirkintilloch. An infant and sewing school was esta-
blished here by Mrs. Stirling, and is at present sup-
ported jointly by that lady and Mr. Stirling, of Caddar,
who have built a good house for the residence of the
mistress, to whom they pay a salary of £30, which is
augmented by the fees.
B L A C
B L A C
BISHOPTON, a village, ni the parish of Erskine,
Upper ward of the county of Renfrew ; containing 315
inhabitants. It is a modern village, situated on the
south side of the Frith of Clyde, a short distance north
of the road from Port-Glasgow to Paisley; and a post-
office under the latter town, has been established, hav-
ing three daily deliveries.
BLACKBURN, a village, chiefly in the parish of
Livingstone, but partly in that of Whitburn, county
of Linlithgow, 7 miles (W. by S.) from Mid Calder ;
containing 443 inhabitants. This village is pleasantly
situated on the river from which it derives its name,
and on the road from Glasgow to Edinburgh ; the in-
habitants are partly engaged in agricultural pursuits,
and partly in the cotton manufacture, for which there is
an establishment, affording employment to about 120
persons. A branch office has been established here,
under the post-office at Whitburn. Subscriptions
have been opened for the erection of a church ; in the
mean time, public worship takes place in the village
school-room, and there is a meeting-house for Inde-
pendents.
BLACKFORD, a parish, in the county of Perth,
4 miles (S. W.) from Auchterarder; containing, with
part of the quoad sacra parish of Ardoch, 17S2 inhabit-
ants, of whom 547 are in the village. This place pro-
bably derives its name from the ancient wordywd, a
way ; being equidistant from the towns of Perth and
Stirling, between which it formed the principal line of
communication. The parish is bounded on the north
by the river Earn, and on the south by the river Devon,
and is about 10 miles in length, and 5 in breadth. The
surface is considerably varied with level and elevated
grounds ; the Ochil hills, of which the sloping accli-
vities afford excellent pasturage for sheep, intersect the
parish towards the south, and the low lands are fertilized
by several small rivers, which add much to the beauty
of the landscape. Of these, the river Machany, which
rises in the high lands of the parish of Mutb.il, after
flowing through this parish, falls into the Earn at Kin-
kell. The Ruthven, which has its source at Gleneagles,
in the parish, is but a small stream, having its course
through the glen of Kincardine for nearly three miles,
when, taking an easterly direction, it flows through the
parish of Auchterarder, into the river Earn ; and the
river Allen, which also rises at Gleneagles, takes a west-
erly course through the parish of Dunblane, and falls
into the river Forth. The soil, especially in the north-
ern part of the parish, is rich, and in good cultivation ;
the system of agriculture is improved, and considerable
portions of waste land have been reclaimed, and are
at present under tillage. Much attention has also been
paid to the growth of plantations, which ;have been ex-
tensively formed on the wide moor of Tullibardine, and
in other parts ; the principal trees of older growth are,
oak and birch. At Tullibardine, are still remaining
a few trees of a plantation of thorn, raised by a ship-
wright, in commemoration of the building of a large
ship for James IV., in which he had been employed.
The rateable annual value of the parish amounts to
£10,700.
The village is inhabited principally by persons en-
gaged in weaving, and the manufacture of a coarse kind
of woollen-cloth affords employment to a considerable
number ; a factory has been erected, in which machinery
131
has been introduced, and from seventy to eighty per-
sons are regularly employed, exclusively of many who
work at their own homes. Two fairs are held annually ;
but from the proximity of Auchterarder and other mar-
ket-towns, they are not much attended. The parish is
in the presbytery of Auchterarder and synod of Perth
and Stirling; the minister's stipend is £206. 11., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £18 per annum. The
church, built in 1738, and recently repaired, is adapted
for a congregation of 500 persons. The parochial
school affords a liberal course of instruction; the master
has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with the customary fees,
and a good dwelling-house and garden. There are
several remains of ancient military works, connected
probably with the Roman camp at Ardoch, to which
station they are supposed to have been out-works ; also
numerous cairns and tumuli in different parts of the
parish. Some remains likewise exist of the castles of
Kincardine and Ogilvy, the walls of which are of great
thickness ; and at Gleneagles and Tullibardine, are the
remains of chapels. The lands of Tullibardine give the
title of Marquess to the Duke of Atholl.
BLACKNESS, a village, in the parish of Carriden,
county of Linlithgow, 3 miles (E.) from Borrowstoun-
ness; containing 10" inhabitants. This place, formerly
the sea-port of Linlithgow, and the residence of nume-
rous merchants, who carried on an extensive trade with
Holland, Bremen, | Hamburgh, and Dantzic, in which
they employed thirty-six ships of large burthen, is now
an inconsiderable hamlet, distinguished only by its royal
castle, which is one of the four Scottish fortresses kept
in repair according to the articles of the union of the
two kingdoms. The harbour and quay are in a ruinous
state ; the custom-house has been converted into lodg-
ings for the few individuals who, during the summer,
resort to this deserted spot for the benefit of bathing ;
and the only business carried on is the occasional ship-
ping of bricks and tiles made at Brickfield, in the im-
mediate vicinity, and the landing of lime and manure.
The castle, which is still entire, is situated on a pro-
montory on the south shore of the Frith of Forth, near
the influx of the Black burn, and at a small distance
from the village; and is supposed to occupy the site of
a Roman station on the wall of Antonine, which, accord-
ing to most writers, terminated at this place ; but the
date of the present structure is not distinctly known.
In 14S1, the castle, with eight ships at that time in the
harbour, was burnt by the English fleet ; and in 14S8,
the nobles who had rebelled against James III., held a
conference with that monarch here, which was called
the "Pacification of Blackness." In 1542, Cardinal
Beaton was imprisoned in the castle, by the Earl of
Arran, then regent, but he was soon liberated, through
the influence of the clergy ; and after the battle of
Pinkie, in 1547, Lord Clinton, the admiral of the Eng-
glish fleet, took three, and burnt seven, of the vessels
lying in the harbour. The castle was garrisoned by the
French forces, under the command of General D'Esse,
in 1548, and also under the regency of Mary of Guise ;
but in 1560, it was taken by the sheriff of Linlithgow.
In 1571, it was garrisoned by Claude Hamilton, a zea-
lous adherent to the interests of Mary, Queen of Scots ;
and by him it was held, in her name, till 15*3, when it
was delivered up to the Earl of Morton, then regent.
During the progress of the Reformation, and the con-
S2
B L A I
B L AI
tests that arose between the advocates of Presbytery and
Episcopacy, the castle was frequently a place of confine-
ment for the non-conforming clergy ; and in the latter
part of the 18th, and earlier part of the 19th century,
it was chiefly occupied by French prisoners of war.
The earls of Linlithgow were hereditary constables of
the castle, till 1715, when that office was forfeited, on
the attainder of James the sixth earl, for his participa-
tion in the Earl of Mar's rebellion. There are a gover-
nor and a lieutenant-governor attached to the castle,
neither of whom is resident ; and the garrison, till
lately, consisted of two gunners, a Serjeant, two cor-
porals, and fifteen privates ; but, at present, the only
inmates are an inferior officer and his family. The
buildings consist of a principal tower, with ramparts
commanding the entrance, and a court-yard, and have
accommodation for 100 men.
BLACKRIDGE, lately a quoad sacra parish, chiefly
in the parish of Torphichen, county of Linlithgow,
3 miles (N.) from Bathgate ; containing 900 inhabitants,
of whom 94 are in the village. This parish included
portions of the civil parishes of Torphichen, Shotts,
Bathgate, Slamannan, and New Monkland ; the village
is situated at the west end of the first-named parish,
near the river Avon, and the inhabitants are employed
in agriculture, and in the mines and quarries in the
neighbourhood. The church was erected by subscrip-
tion, in 1S38, and is a neat structure, containing 400
sittings ; the minister derives a stipend of about £60,
from the seat-rents and collections. The parochial school
is well attended ; the master has a salary of £29, the
proceeds of bequests, and 100 merks, together nearly
£35; and the fees average about £11. A parochial
library has been established.
BLADNOCH, a village, in the parish and county of
Wigton, 1 mile (S.) from Wigton ; containing 215
inhabitants. This village is pleasantly situated on the
north bank of the river Bladnoch, over which is a
bridge, connecting it with the parish of Kirkinncr, on
the south. An extensive distillery has been established
for the making of whisky, in which about twenty per-
sons are constantly employed, and which annually con-
sumes about 16,000 bushels of barley. There is also a
small salmon-fishery carried on here, and various kinds
of white fish are taken in the bay.
BLAIR-ATHOLL, a parish, in the county of Perth,
20 miles (N. by W.) from Dunkeld; containing, with
part of Tenandry quoad sacra parish, 2231 inhabitants.
This place, of which the name, in the Gaelic language,
signifies "the plain of Atholl," comprises the four an-
cient parishes of Blair, Lude, Kilmaveonaig, and Strowan,
united into one parish in the early part of the 17th cen-
tury. In the reign of James V., that monarch, with his
mother, and the pope's legate, were entertained at Blair
Castle with great hospitality, by the Earl of Atholl,
who, for their diversion, accompanied them in a cele-
brated hunt on the north side of the mountain Beinn-
ghlo. The castle afterwards became the head-quarters
of Viscount Dundee, in the memorable battle of Killie-
crankie, which took place on the fields of Runrory, on
the north side of Girnag mountain. It was, indeed, fre-
quently occupied as an important military station, not
only during the times of feudal warfare, but also in the
rebellion of 1745, and in 1746 was garrisoned with a
force of 300 men, under the command of Sir Andrew
132
Agnew, whom the Duke of Cumberland, on his arrival
at Perth, had despatched to take up his quarters here,
and so cut off all communication between the northern
and southern parts of the country. In order to gain
possession of this station, Lord George Murray, accom-
panied by several officers of the Highland army, and
with a force of 100 men, was sent to surprise the castle,
which, from its scanty supply of provisions, he attempted
to reduce by famine ; and having made prisoners of all
the detached out-posts, he took up his head-quarters in
the village, and closely blockaded the castle. But, after
having reduced the garrison to the last extremity, he
suddenly raised the blockade, and returned to join the
army of the Pretender, at Inverness ; and on the follow-
ing day, the garrison were relieved by the Earl of Craw-
ford, and received the thanks of the Duke of Cumber-
land, for their gallant defence.
The parish is bounded on the north by the Grampian
hills, and is about thirty miles in length, and eighteen
miles in average breadth, comprising 105,000 acres of
hill pasture, 3000 arable land under cultivation, and
2500 woods and plantations. The surface is finely
varied with hills and valleys ; on both sides of the river
Garry, is an extensive and fertile plain, constituting the
vale of Garry, and extending from the pass of Killie-
crankie to Strowan, terminating in hills of which the
slopes are under cultivation, and the summits clothed
with heather. In the Grampian range are several lofty
mountains, of which Beinn-ghlo, Beinn-mheadhonaidh,
Beinn-chait, and Beinn-deirg are the principal ; the
mountain Beinn-ghlo, which stands upon a base many
miles in circumference, has four detached summits, of
which one has an altitude of 3720 feet above the level
of the sea, and the others are little inferior in height.
The surface is also diversified with lakes, of which one
of the chief is Loch Garry, near the boundary of the
counties of Perth and Inverness ; it is inclosed on all
sides by hills of lofty elevation, and is about six miles
in circumference, abounding with trout of excellent
quality. Loch Tummel is a picturesque sheet of water,
four miles in length, and nearly a mile in breadth, taste-
fully embellished with an island of artificial formation,
on which are the ruins of a castle, and inclosed with
banks richly cultivated, and interspersed with small
hamlets ;■ this lake also abounds with pike and trout of
the largest size. The river Garry issues from the lake
of that name, and, after a course of nearly thirty miles,
in which it receives the streams of the Erichkie, Bruar,
and Tilt, falls into the Tummel, at the south-eastern
extremity of the parish ; the Tummel has its source in
Loch Tummel, and urges its rapid and impetuous course
but for a short way through the parish. The river Tilt,
from the loch of that name, on the summit of the Gram-
pian range, after a course of sixteen miles, flows into
the Garry at Blair, and, in its progress, displays a suc-
cession of beautifully picturesque scenery. Almost all
the rivers form interesting cascades ; the falls of the
Garry, obstructed in its course by shelving rocks, are
peculiarly interesting, and those of the Tummel are
magnificently grand, from the vast body of water which
is precipitated from rocks clothed to their summits with
stately birch-trees. The Bruar, also, descending from
a height of many feet, forms a succession of cataracts,
rendered still more striking from the beauty of the sur-
rounding scenery. v
BLAI
B L A I
The son, is various; in the valleys, and on the slopes
of the hills, a light loam, or a gravelly soil, prevails,
and the more elevated lands are mossy. The chief crops
are, different kinds of grain, and turnips, for which lat-
ter the soil is well adapted, and of which large quan-
tities are raised ; the farm-houses are generally well
built, and considerable improvements have been made
in husbandry, under the auspices of the Atholl Club,
which distributes annual prizes for the promotion of
agriculture and the breed of stock. The cattle are
usually of the black Highland breed, to the rearing of
which great attention is paid ; about 1200 milch cows
are regularly pastured, and 30,000 sheep are annually
fed, all of the black-faced breed. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £11,S47. Atholl forest, formerly
enjoying many privileges, is partly in the parish, and
about 12,000 head of red deer are found within its
limits. The natural woods situated in the parish are
principally oak, ash, birch, alder, and aspen; and the
plantations, which are very extensive, consist of Scotch
firs, spruce, and larch, with lime, elm, and plane trees, of
which there are some very fine specimens in the park of
Blair. The substratum is chiefly limestone, part of the
great vein extending from near Callender to Braemar,
and is quarried for manure and other purposes, but not
in sufficient quantity for the lands, in consequence of
the scarcity of fuel for burning it ; marble, also, of
various colours is abundant, especially a vein of green
colour, much esteemed for mantel-pieces and other orna-
mental purposes.
Blair Castle, already noticed, the baronial seat of the
Murray family, and the residence of Lord Glenlyon, is a
spacious well-built structure, supposed to have been
erected by John Cumin, of Strathbogie, who became Earl
of Atholl in right of his wife ; in 1750, it was reduced
by the taking down of two stories, and converted into a
family mansion. It contains a handsome suite of state
apartments, but its castellated appearance has been lost,
by the removal of its turrets ; it is inclosed in a very
extensive park, embellished with ancient timber and
thriving plantations, and the grounds, which are laid
out with great taste, command a rich variety of scenery.
Her Majesty and Prince Albert, on their second visit to
Scotland, spent three weeks at this place, in September
1S44 ; the castle was prepared by Lord Glenlyon for
Her Majesty's reception, and he introduced to the royal
notice the most remarkable features of the vicinity.
Lude House, a spacious modern mansion, likewise
within the parish, occupies an elevated site, and forms
an interesting feature in the scenery of the Garry ; Auch-
leeks is also a handsome modern mansion, pleasantly
situated. A post-office has been established, which has
a daily delivery; and fairs are held at Blair-Atholl, on
the 2nd of February for general traffic, and the third
Wednesday in May for horses and cattle ; at Tilt Bridge,
on the 25th of June and the 20th of August (O. S.) for
cattle ; and at Trinafour, on the third Tuesday in March
(O. S.), for horses, and the Wednesday in October be-
fore the tryst of Falkirk, for cattle. The parish is in
the presbytery of Dunkeld and synod of Perth and Stir-
ling ; the minister's stipend is about £200, with a
manse, and the glebe is valued at £150 per annum.
The parochial church is a handsome and substantial
edifice, of modern erection, adapted for 650 persons,
and the churchyard is spacious ; a church was erected
133
in the Strowan district, in 1829, for a congregation of
450 persons, and divine service is performed on two
consecutive Sundays at Blair-Atholl, and every third
Sunday at Strowan. The old church of Kilmaveonaig
was rebuilt in 1791, and appropriated as a place of wor-
ship by the Episcopalians ; and there is also a meeting-
house for Baptists. The parochial school affords educa-
tion to about a hundred scholars ; the master has a salary
of £34. 4. 4., with £30 fees, and a house and garden.
There are vestiges of an old religious establishment on
the banks of the Tilt, called Cill Aindreas, consisting
chiefly of sepulchral remains ; and in various parts of
the parish are upright stones, the remnants of Druidical
circles, near some of which are traces of ancient ceme-
teries. The walls of the church of Lude are also still
remaining.
BLAIR LOGIE, a village, in the parish of Logie,
county of Perth, 2 miles (N. N. E.) from Stirling ; con-
taining 124 inhabitants. This village, situated at the
foot of the Ochil hills, is celebrated for its beauty and
cleanliness, and the salubrity of its air, and is much
visited by invalids, for its goat's-whey ; it contains a
small library belonging to the parish, and there is a
place of worship connected with the Relief denomination.
On the heights is the Castle of Blair-Logie, now occupied
by a farmer.
BLAIRBURN, a village, in the parish of Ctjlross,
county of Perth ; containing 85 inhabitants.
BLAIRDAFF, Aberdeen.- — See Garioch.
BLAIRGOWRIE, a burgh, market-town, and pa-
rish, in the county of Perth, 5S miles (N. by W.) from
Edinburgh ; containing 3700 inhabitants, of whom 2600
are in the town. The term Blair is of doubtful etymo-
logy, by some supposed to be derived from a Gaelic
root signifying a mossy locality, and by others thought
to come from a word denoting the scene of a battle or
of war : Gowrie was the ancient denomination of the
district in which the parish is situated, and has been
used as an affix to distinguish it from several other
places of the name of Blair. The town stands not far
from the eastern boundary of the county, bordering on
Forfarshire, and on a pleasant eminence on the western
bank of the river Ericht, forming the first step of the
acclivity of the hill of Blair. From its secluded and
remote neighbourhood, it has been free from the colli-
sions of the great political and religious tumults which
have been felt so frequently and extensively throughout
the country, the only historical recollection noted of
this kind being the passage of the celebrated Montrose
through the place, in one of his hostile descents into
the valley of Strathmore. But what, at the commence-
ment of the present century, was a small, quiet, and
inconsiderable village, has since grown into a bustling
manufacturing and market town ; and not only the in-
habitants of this spot, but those of the parish generally,
have exchanged their rural for a commercial character,
and the peasantry have given place to artizans, partly
through the breaking up of the cottar system, by the
consolidation of small farms, but chiefly through the
extensive introduction of manufactures. About forty
years since, the village consisted of small, unsightly
thatched houses, collected in the vicinity of the church ;
but it now contains some good streets, well lighted with
gas, supplied by a joint-stock company established in
1834; and its new and attractive character has, for
BLAI
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some time, been gradually drawing, from the other
parts of the parish, a considerable portion of the people
to take up their residence here. It is approached by
several good roads from different quarters ; but the
most considerable is the great north road from Perth to
Fort-George, which enters the parish at the southern
boundary, about two miles distant, and crosses the
Ericht a little way from the town, by the bridge of
Blairgowrie. This river, forming the eastern boundary
of the parish for ten miles, is, in connexion with its
bridges and roads, a lively and interesting feature in
the strikingly beautiful scenery which is commanded
by the well-cultivated hill of Blair ; it has its course
through diversified and romantic combinations of woods
and rocks, and falls into the Isla at Cupar-Grange. The
hill of Blair, immediately behind the town, is orna-
mented with the church, and skirted by a deep well-
wooded ravine stretching down abruptly nearly to the
river. From the churchyard, a view of the first order is
obtained, embracing the whole valley of Strathmore, in
the northern portion of which part of the parish lies, and
terminated on the east by the Hunter hill of Glammis,
and on the south by the picturesque chain of the Sid-
laws. Near the town, are the mansions of Newton and
Ardblair, large structures in the castellated style, the
former commanding beautiful and extensive prospects
over Strathmore, and being itself seen as a conspicuous
object from several parts ; and not far distant, is Blair-
gowrie House, a large edifice, situated on the low grounds
to the south of the town, the whole of the vicinity of
which partakes of that varied and rich scenery charac-
teristic of the lower or southern division of the parish,
the northern district exhibiting the features of a high-
land locality.
The spinning-wheel, formerly so much in use here,
has been entirely superseded by machinery ; and there
are at present in operation, worked by water-power,
five mills, employing about 200 hands, who are engaged
in the spinning of flax and tow into yarn. The flax
used is imported into Dundee from the Baltic, and, after
being spun, is either taken to the former places for sale,
or disposed of to manufacturers in the neighbourhood,
and in Alyth and Cupar-Angus. The value of flax
annually consumed at three mills near the town, is from
£20,000 to £26,000 per annum, and the value of yarn
spun at the same mills, from £33,000 to £36,000.
About 350 persons are occupied in weaving yarn, by
hand-looms, into cloth of different fabrics, consisting of
fine dowlas and drill, but especially Osnaburghs and
coarse sheetings ; and these are sold at Dundee, though
sometimes shipped, on the part of the manufacturer,
direct to North and South America and France. The
only other branch of trade carried on is that of salmon-
fishing, which, however, is in a very low state, the rental
for the whole course of the Ericht, from the Keith to
the boundary of the parish, being only £21. 12. per
annum. This change from its former extent, which was
very considerable, is owing partly to the circumstance
of there being fisheries on the Tay and Isla, and partly
to the erection of the numerous mills on the river,
which in summer drain off nearly the whole of the
water. A general post-office is established in the town •
and besides the road from Perth to Fort-George, already
noticed, there is a road from Blairgowrie to Cupar-
Angus, made turnpike in 1332, which quits the parish
134
about two miles south of the town ; and the line of road
from Kirriemuir, Forfar, and other places, to Dunkeld,
passes through the town, in crossing the parish from
east to west. A market, which is well attended, is held
on Wednesday, in alternate weeks, during winter and
spring, for cattle and grain ; and there are annual fairs
in the town, on the third Wednesday in March ; the
26th of May, if it fall on Wednesday, if not, the first
Wednesday after ; the 23rd July ; the first Wednesday
in Nov. ; the 22nd Nov., or first Tuesday after ; and
the Wednesday before Falkirk tryst. Blairgowrie was
erected into a burgh of barony by charter from Charles I.,
dated 9th July, 1634, in favour of George Drummond,
then proprietor of the estate ; and in the year 1809, the
town was created a free burgh of barony by a charter
from Colonel McPherson, the superior, and the bur-
gesses were empowered to elect a bailie and four coun-
cillors for the management of the affairs of the burgh.
The bailie, and two of the councillors, vacate their
offices every two years ; and their places are filled up by
the burgesses. The police is in accordance with the
general police act, and under the controul of the chief
magistrate and four commissioners, the latter being
annually elected by the £10 householders; but the
provisions of the act respecting watching and paving
have not been adopted, the householders being bound
by their charter to take the watching by turns, them-
selves personally, or to provide substitutes. There are
two cells in the lower story of the town-house, used as a
prison, for the punishment of offenders within the juris-
diction of the burgh magistrate. The town is one of
the seats of the quarterly sheriff-court, under the Small
Debt act, and a polling-place for the county parliamen-
tary elections.
The parish consists of a principal portion, about
seven miles long, and one and a half mile in average
breadth, and of two detached parts. One of these, lying
north-west of the large division, and separated by
branches of the parishes of Kinloch and Bendochy,
contains a tract on each side of the river Ardle, consist-
ing of the estates of Blackcraig, Wester-Cally, and
Whitehouse, and part of the district of the forest of
Cluny, covering altogether about four squai'e miles ; the
other, called Creuchies, situated to the north-east, and
separated by the parish of Rattray, contains about two
square miles. The total number of acres in the parish
is estimated at about 16,000 or 17,000, of which about
10,000 are, or have been, cultivated, 5000 are waste and
pasture, and the remainder wood and plantations, com-
prising alder, birch, hazel, mountain-ash, larch to a
considerable extent, and Scotch fir, though none of the
trees attain to very great size, from the nature of the
soil. The parish comprehends the two divisions called
highland and lowland, separated from each other by a
branch of the Grampian range ; the former is hilly, and
is the northern boundary of the vale of Strathmore, but
the surface of the latter, which belongs to that vale, is
tolerably equal, and replete with that beautiful and
richly- diversified scenery for which the whole sweep of
country is so highly celebrated. The Ardle and Black-
water streams, partly skirting the northern division,
unite near the bridge of Cally, and form the principal
river, the Ericht, which, in the vicinity of Craighall,
passes through some of the most wildly romantic por-
tions of the district, the beauties of which supplied the
BL AI
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author of Waverley with some of the principal features
in the description of Tully-Veolan. The parish is partly
bounded on the south by the Lunan ; and the Lornty,
after flowing for some distance, falls into the Ericht
about half a mile above the town. These streams abound
with trout; pike, perch, and eels are plentiful in all the
lochs, six in number, and the loch of Stormont is also
frequented, in summer, by swarms of sea-gulls, which
build among the reeds and rushes, and supply large
quantities of eggs.
The southern and most cultivated division, stretching
southward from the hill of Blair, for four miles, to the
middle of the valley of Strathmore, exhibits great diver-
sity of soil, comprising stiff clay, moss, rich loam near
the town, and alluvial earth, the last, on the bank of the
river, being the most fertile. In this division, is the
muir of Blair, a tract comprehending about 1000 acres,
chiefly covered with thick plantations of Scotch fir, be-
yond which, to the south, the soil, though thin and
light, is mostly under cultivation. All kinds of grain
and green crops are raised, and a considerable revenue
is derived from pastures and the thinning of woods ;
the sheep kept here are not bred in the parish, but are
purchased in autumn, and fattened with turnips eaten
off the ground in winter, for sale in the following spring.
Much improvement has taken place in the stock of
cattle, by crossing the native cows with the short-
horned bulls, and large quantities are annually fed for
the Glasgow and Falkirk markets. The husbandry is
of a superior kind, all the modern usages having been
introduced, and draining and inclosing have been prac-
tised to a great extent. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £9291. The rocks consist chiefly of grey-
wacke, greenstone, and sandstone ; the last, which is a
coarse red conglomerate, is extensively quarried in the
vicinity of the town, and there are several other quar-
ries in different parts, including one of clay-slates, not
now in operation. The parish is in the presbytery of
Meigle and synod of Angus and Mearns, and in the
alternate patronage of William McPherson, Esq., of
Blairgowrie, and James Blair Oliphant, Esq., of Gask
and Ardblair. The minister's stipend is £19.9.. 18., with
a manse, rebuilt in 1S3S, with the offices, at a cost of
upwards of £500, and the glebe comprises 9i acres,
valued at £20 per annum. The church, built in ] S24,
on the site of the old edifice, on an eminence close to
the town, contains 1000 sittings, a few of which are
free. A chapel, accommodating 600 persons, in con-
nexion with the Established Church, and situated in
Brown's-street, was purchased for the sum of £400, of
the Burgher congregation who had before used it, and
was opened in 183". The money for the purchase, with
the exception of £100 granted by the Church-extension
Committee, was raised by subscription, and the minister's
salary, amounting to above £140, is derived from seat-
rents and collections. There are also a Roman Catholic
chapel, and places of worship for members of the Free
Church and Independents ; and a handsome edifice has
been just erected in the early English style, consisting
of a nave and chancel, for the use of a congregation in
connexion with the Episcopal church ; it is named St.
Catharine's, and was founded at the expense of the
pastor, the Rev. John Marshall, who has ornamented
the chancel with an elegant window of stained glass.
Attached to it, is a library containing many works of
135
science and general literature, for the use of all denomi-
nations. The parochial school affords instruction in the
usual branches ; the master has a salary of £34. 4.,
and £60 fees. The late Mr. George Barty, tobacconist
at Perth, and a native of this place, who died in 1838,
bequeathed £1400 for the education of poor children
belonging to this parish, and those of Rattray, Bendo-
chy, and Kinloch, in the parochial school of Blairgowrie.
The antiquities comprise several ancient cairns, and the
ruins of the castle of Glasclune, formerly the property of
the Blairs, and of that of Drumlochy, the seat of the
Herons ; the buildings are near each other, and be-
tween the possessors a feud once raged, ending in the
ruin of the latter. A chalybeate spring, called the
" Heugh well," situated in a cliff, is found of great
benefit in cutaneous and dyspeptic complaints.
BLAIRINGONE, lately a quoad sacra parish, chiefly
in the parish of Fossoway and Tulliebole, county of
Perth ; containing 574 inhabitants, of whom 210 are in
New, and 79 in Old, Blairingone, 10 miles (W.) from Kin-
ross. This parish, of which the name implies "the Field
of Spears," included portions of the parishes of Muckart,
Dollar, and Clackmannan, and was seated on the
river Devon, and the road between Alloa and Kin-
ross. Coal is abundant, and several mines are at pre-
sent in operation ; ironstone, of which the produce is
of very superior quality, is also wrought ; and some
veins of an ore supposed to contain a considerable pro-
portion of suiphur have lately been discovered. In the
parish are several handsome residences, among which
are, Devonshaw, a modern building in the Elizabethan
style, beautifully situated on the south bank of the
Devon ; and Arndean. The village is in the south-
western part of the parish, and is chiefly inhabited by
the work-people of the collieries. The ecclesiastical
affairs were under the presbytery of Auchterarder and
synod of Perth and Stirling ; the minister was appointed
by the heads of families : the church is a neat plain
building, erected in 1S36, by subscription, aided by a
grant from the General Assembly's Church-extension
Committee. There is a congregation of members of
the Free Church, who assemble in a building of hand-
some design, erected in 1S43 as a school for all denomi-
nations. On the banks of the Devon is a remarkable
spring issuing from among strata of ironstone, and
used medicinally.
BLAIRMORE, a hamlet, in the parish of Kenhoee,
county of Perth ; containing 21 inhabitants.
BLANTYRE, a parish, in the Middle ward of the
county of Lanark ; including the villages of Auchin-
raith, Auchintiber, Barnhill, Blantyre, Blantyre-Works,
Hunthill, and Stonefield ; and containing 3047 inhabit-
ants, of whom 1464 are in the village of Blantyre-Works,
and 264 in that of Blantyre, or Kirkton, 3 miles (N. W.)
from Hamilton, and 8| (S. S. E.) from Glasgow. The
lands formerly belonged to the Dunbars, of Enteckin,
in which family they remained till the Reformation,
when they were purchased by Walter Stewart, sou of
Lord Minto, treasurer of Scotland, upon whom, on the
suppression of monastic establishments, the ancient
priory of this place was bestowed by James VI., who
also created him Lord Blantyre. The priory is said to
have been founded by Alexander II., as a cell to the
abbey of Jedburgh, or, according to Spottiswoode, of
Holyrood House ; and Walter, who was prior at that
BL A N
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time, was one of the commissioners appointed to nego-
tiate for the ransom of David Bruce, the Scottish king,
who had been made prisoner by the English, in the
battle of Durham, in 1346. The remains of the priory,
which are very inconsiderable, are situated on the sum-
mit of a high rock on the bank of the river Clyde, oppo-
site to the ruins of Bothwell Castle ; and little more
than one of the vaults, which is still entire, with two
gables, and a portion of the outer walls, is remaining.
The buildings were of red granite; and the ruins form,
in combination with the castle, an interesting feature in
the scenery.
The parish extends for six miles in length, from
north to south, and varies greatly in breadth, not ave-
raging more than one mile in the whole ; it comprises
4170 acres, of which, excepting 200 acres of moss land
and plantations, all is arable. The principal rivers
are, the Clyde, which enters the parish at a short dis-
tance below Bothwell bridge, and forms a boundary
between this place and the parish of Bothwell for about
three miles, flowing majestically between lofty banks
richly clothed with wood ; and the Calder, which enters
the parish near Rottenburn, and, after forming several
picturesque falls, in its course along the western boun-
dary, flows into the Clyde near Daldowie. The tributary
streams are, the Redburn, which has its source in the
lands of Park farm, and joins the Clyde near Bothwell
bridge ; and two other rivulets, one rising in the lands
of Shott, and one at Newmain, which also fall into the
river Clyde. Salmon are taken in abundance near the
mill-dam of Blantyre. The scenery is, in many parts,
exceedingly beautiful ; the parish is generally well
wooded, and diversified with gently undulating emi-
nences and fertile dales. The soil is various, being in
some parts a fine rich loam, in others a strong clay, and
in others sand, with some portions of moss ; the system
of agriculture is improved, and good crops of various
kinds of grain are raised. Great improvement has been
made in draining the lands, and a considerable tract
called Blantyre moor, formerly a common, has been
subdivided, and brought into cultivation; the farm
houses and buildings are of superior order. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £82S0. Peat for fuel
is cut on Edge Moss, and coal, of which the veins are
but very thin, is worked at Calderside and Rottenburn ;
limestone of a quality well adapted for building, and
for agricultural purposes, is wrought in the southern
part of the parish. Ironstone, also, is abundaut, and at
Black-Craig, on the borders of the parish, not less than
seventeen different seams are seen, superincumbent on
each other ; the ironstone is worked in the parish of
Kilbride, where are the openings of the mines, but the
strata lie principally in this parish.
The principal village is situated on an eminence over-
looking the river Clyde, and in the midst of a beautiful
country, embellished with timber of venerable and
stately growth. It appears to have attained its present
importance and extent, from the introduction of the
cotton manufacture by Messrs. Dale and Monteith, who,
in 1785, erected a mill for the spinning of cotton-yarn,
and, in the year 1791, another for the making of mule
twist. In 1813, Messrs. Monteith and Company erected
a weaving factory, in which the number of looms has,
since that time, increased from 450 to nearly 600 ; and
around these works, giving profitable employment to a
136
large number of the population, the present village has
been erected. In the two spinning-mills, which are
both worked by water power, are 30,000 spindles, afford-
ing occupation to about 500 persons ; and in the weav-
ing establishment, the works of which are driven partly
by water power, and partly by steam, are 600 power-
looms, in the management of which more than 300
persons are regularly employed. In connexion with
these works, is an establishment for dyeing cotton-yarn
with the Turkey red. The total number of persons
employed in all the departments, is nearly 1000, of
whom more than 500 are females ; the houses in the
village are comfortable and neatly built, and it is
watched and cleansed by persons paid by the company,
who have also built a public washing-house, and appro-
priated a large bleach green, on the banks of the Clyde,
for the use of the inhabitants, who are supplied with
hard and soft water, for domestic use, by force-pumps
at the factory. A library has been for some years esta-
blished, which contains an extensive collection of useful
volumes.
The parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr; the minister's stipend is
about £184, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £16
per annum. The parish church, which is not in good
repair, was erected in 1793, and will only hold about
300 persons. There is a chapel at the Blantyre Mills,
erected by the company for the accommodation of
the work-people employed there, and containing sit-
tings for 400 persons ; the minister's stipend is paid,
one-half by the proprietors of the works, and the other
half from the seat-rents. A place of worship has been
erected for members of the Free Church. The paro-
chial school affords a liberal education; the salary of
the master is £26, with £ 1 9 fees. There is also a school
for the children of the workpeople at the mills, to which
purpose the chapel is applied, during the week ; the
master is appointed by the company, who give him a
house and garden rent free, and a salary of £20. An-
cient urns have been, at various times, discovered in
several parts of the parish ; some of these were inclosed
in a kind of kistvaen, covered by heaps of loose stones,
and contained ashes, with remnants of half-burnt bones
scattered round them. Within the last few years, a
stone coffin was discovered, containing an urn of baked
earth, in which was a skull with the teeth nearly entire
and in good preservation ; and fragments of six larger,
and more richly ornamented, urns were found in ano-
ther part of the same field, which is now called " Archers
Croft." Stone coffins have also been found at Lawhill
and Greenhall, and other places situated within the limits
of the parish. At Calderside, is a large hill called the
Camp-Know, of conical form, 600 feet in circumference
at the base, and surrounded by a moat ; and near it is a
kind of subterraneous cavern of flags. At Park farm is
a fine spring, which has long been in high repute for
the cure of scorbutic affections and diseases of the eye ;
it is strongly impregnated with sulphur, combined with
muriate and sulphate of lime, and was formerly much
resorted to by numerous invalids from Glasgow and its
neighbourhood. There are also various mineral springs
on the banks of the river Calder. The late John Miller,
Esq., professor of law in the university of Glasgow,
resided for some years at Milheugh, in the parish, and
was buried in the churchyard.
DOHA
B O H A
BLEBO-CRAIGS, a village, in the parish of Kem-
back, district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, | a mile
(S. E.) from Kemback ; containing 234 inhabitants. It
lies a short distance to the north of the road from Ceres
to St. Andrew's. On the estate of Blebo, a vein of lead-
ore was discovered in 1/22, and was worked for some
time, but relinquished in consequence of the expense.
In the vicinity are extensive mills. Blebo House is an
elegant mansion, surrounded by fine plantations.
BLUE-ROW, a hamlet, in the parish of New Kil-
patrick, county of Dumbarton ; containing 53 inha-
bitants.
BLUEVALE, a village, in the ecclesiastical district
of Camlachie, Barony parish, county of Lanark. It
is a suburb of the city of Glasgow, and one of the divi-
sions recently separated from Barony parish ; and con-
sists chiefly of small cottages, irregularly built, and
occupied by hand-loom weavers and day-labourers.
There are five schools connected with this place and the
other divisions of Camlachie, Keppoch Hill, and Lady-
well, which are attended by about 300 children.
BOARHILLS, a village, in. the parish and district
of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 4 miles (S. E.) from
St. Andrew's j containing 155 inhabitants. It is situated
on the eastern coast, and southern point of St. Andrew's
bay ; a little northward of it, is Mount Budda rock.
BODDAM, a village, in the parish of Peterhead,
district of Buchan, county of Aberdeen, 3 miles (S.)
from Peterhead ; containing 596 inhabitants. This
place anciently belonged to a branch of the Keith family,
who had a strong baronial castle, situated on a rock
overhanging the sea, and of which there are still consi-
derable remains. The village, which is on the eastern
coast, near the headland of Buchanness, is inhabited
chiefly by persons employed in the fisheries, which are
carried on to a great extent, there being two small har-
bours, separated only by a beach of pebbles, of which
the shore here mainly consists. In the haddock-fishery,
commencing in March, and continuing till July, twenty-
two boats, of four men and a boy each, are engaged, and,
during the season, each boat takes generally about 30,000
fish, which are cured, and dried upon the rocks, and sell
at from £3 to £4 per thousand. The herring-fishery
begins in July, and continues till September, and em-
ploys twenty-three larger boats, with crews of six men
each ; and the quantity of fish taken during the season,
averages, when sold, about £100 for each boat. There
are twelve boats employed during the winter months, in
the cod and white fishery ; the fish are, cod, ling, skate,
and turbot, and from 1200 to 1S00 are taken by each
boat, and produce from £30 to £40. The fish cured
here obtain a decided preference in the markets, and
especially the haddocks, which from being dried on the
rocks, are perfectly free from sand. The village has
been greatly extended and improved ; and a harbour of
greater capacity is now being constructed, which will
have a greater depth of water than that of Peterhead,
and of which the approach will be rendered safe by the
lighthouse on Buchanness.
BOGHEAD, a village, in the parish of Lesmahago,
Upper ward of the county of Lanark; containing 198
inhabitants. It is in the northern part of the parish,
and on the road between Lesmahago and Strathaven.
BOHARM, a parish, partly in the county of
Elgin, but chiefly in that of Banff, 6 miles (W.) from
Vol. I. — 137
Keith; containing 1261 inhabitants. The original word
Bucharin, or Bocharin, from which Boharm has been
formed, is said to signify " the bow or bend about the
hill." It was correctly applied to this locality, on
account of the cultivated part consisting chiefly of a
valley, stretching in a circular form around the north,
east, and south sides of the mountain of Benagen,
which rises abruptly from the Spey river, the boun-
dary line of the district on the west. A church for-
merly stood on the estate of Arndilly, called the
church of Artendol, and it appears that, about the
year 1215, one of the family of Freskyn de Moravia,
who had large estates here, granted to the cathedral
of Moray, " the church of Artendol, with all its per-
tinents, excepting the corn-tithes of the two Davochs,
which lay next to his castle of Bucharin." It is there-
fore conjectured that the old parish was named Artendol,
and that, upon the ruin of the church there, the chapel
of the castle of Bucharin was used in its stead, as the
parochial church, in consequence of which the parish was
called Bucharin. The parish was augmented in 1/S8,
to the extent of about one-third, by the annexation of
part of the suppressed parish of Dundurcus, lying on
the east of the river ; the whole measures about twelve
miles in extreme length, and four at. its greatest breadth,
comprising 4739 acres' under tillage, besides a large
extent of wood, mountain-pasture, and waste. The lofty
eminence of Benagen, situated about the middle of
the parish, and attaining an elevation of 1500 feet
above the sea, occupies so large a portion of the surface,
as to render the valley at its base comparatively nar-
row. At its summit level, the valley is about 400 feet
above the sea, and from this height gradually descends
towards each extremity, when it abruptly falls into the
valley of the Spey. The sides of the vale are cultivated
for a considerable distance upwards, as well as the bed ;
and the southern and eastern sides of the mountain,
nearly half way up, have been brought under tillage.
The Fiddich, a stream of some magnitude, flowing
between beautifully-wooded banks, forms a confluence
with the Spey near the bridge of Craigellachie, from
which point to the distance of a mile above the village
of Fochabers, the latter river separates this parish from
Rothes. Both these streams are subject to violent
floodings, and often, by the sudden and irresistible
impulse of their waters, destroy the bridges, crops,
tenements, and almost every thing in their way. A
very ancient bridge, chiefly of wood, formerly crossed
the Spey, near the influx of the Orchil, and was sup-
posed to have been constructed by the Romans under
Severus ; but no remains of it have been visible for
many years, and the passage was afterwards accom-
plished by a ferry-boat. An establishment called the
hospital of St. Nicholas stood near it, on the Boharm
side of the river, founded in the beginning of the 13th
century, by Muriel de Pollock, heiress of Rothes, and
dedicated to God, the Virgin, and St. Nicholas, for the
reception of poor passengers. Andrew, Bishop of
Moray, granted to the hospital the church of Rothes,
with its pertinents, and Alexander II., in 1232, endowed
it with a chaplaincy. It is supposed that the bridge
was kept in repair by this house, and that, about the
time of the Reformation, the structure either fell to
decay, or was destroyed by a flood, and, having lost its
means of support, was not renewed ; the ruins of the
" T
B O H A
BOIN
hospital were removed, and a new bridge built, a few
years since, at a cost of £3500, on the suspension prin-
ciple, with a span of 235 feet. The burn of Orchil,
formed by a collection of the waters of the lower
part of the district where a valley from Keith eastward
opens into the circular valley, runs rapidly through
a rocky and romantic channel, into the Spey, at Boat
of Bridge ; and the rivulet Aldernie conveys the waters
of the upper district to the Fiddich. These streams
abound with trout, which, as well as grilse and salmon,
are also found in the Spey.
The soil in some parts is gravelly, and in others
sandy, but is more frequently clayey, and very reten-
tive of moisture ; all sorts of grain are raised, though
the wheat is in small quantity, and most kinds of
grasses and green crops. Much attention is paid to
turnips, the growth of which has lately increased,
and large applications of bone-manure have been made,
with great success ; lint also is cultivated, but oats are
the staple article, and are of excellent quality, the
other grain being comparatively inferior. Lime is ex-
tensively used for agi'icultural purposes, and draining
and the improvement of waste land have been carried
on with spirit ; but good inclosures and farm-buildings
are still much needed, though, in several parts, the
latter have been greatly improved. The black-cattle,
which are small in size, are chiefly the Highland and
Aberdeenshire, and the sheep are the Leicesters and
Lintons, the former kept on the lower, and the latter
on the higher, grounds ; there are some sheep, also,
of the large English breed, valued for the wool. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £3/64. Gneiss
is the prevailing rock in the southern portion of the
district ; talc-slate is found in the principal valley, and
up to the summit of the hills, traversed by veins of
quartz, and by a strip of primitive limestone, originating
in the great limestone formation of Banffshire. This last
is wrought for agricultural use, and also for building,
being well adapted for the latter purpose, on account of
a siliceous mixture. The rocks in the valley of the Spey
are gneiss and quartz, in some places overlaid by a large
deposit of red clay and gravel, spreading itself extensively
in several directions ; boulders of granite and hornblende
are numerous, and supply an excellent material for build-
ings. Mica-slate is also found.
The woods and plantations form a prominent feature
in the scenery, and comprise almost every description of
trees grown in the country. In the south-west corner
of the parish, on the bank of the Spey, is the mansion-
house of Arndilly, occupying an eminence once the site
of the church, the remains of which were removed to
make way for the present residence, and the ancient
glebe now forms part of the lawn before the mansion.
It is situated in a recess of Benagen, nearly surrounded
by wood, with the river in front, and commanding fine
views. The only other mansion is Auchlunkart, a spa-
cious residence in the midst of plantations, and enlivened
by a pleasing brook ; it has a colonnade and portico in
the Grecian style, and a conservatory, attached to the
southern portion, communicating with the drawing-
room. The parish is in the presbytery of Aberlour and
synod of Moray, and in the patronage of the Crown and
the Earl of Fife ; the minister's stipend is returned at
£244. 16. 7-, with a manse, built in 1811, and a glebe
valued at £22. 10. per annum. The church stands nearly
138
in the centre of the parish, and was erected, in the
year 1793, upon the boundary line of the old parish
and the annexed portion of Dundurcus ; it accommo-
dates 700 persons. The parochial, or grammar, school
affords instruction in the usual branches ; the master
has a salary of £34. 4. 5., with a house, £17 fees, and a
portion of the Dick bequest, The parish also contains
a parochial library, and a savings' bank, instituted in
1821. The castle of Bucharin, now Galval, supposed
to have been built by the Freskyns, is the chief anti-
quity, consisting of a fine ruin, situated on an eminence
between the brooks Aldernie and Fiddich : silver spoons
were found under it, some years since ; and lately, from
beneath a stone in the floor of the oratory, a silver ring
was taken up, on which was a small shield, with two
martial figures. James Ferguson, the celebrated astro-
nomer, received the rudiments of his education here ; he
died in the year 17 66.
BOINDIE, a parish, in the county of Banff, 3 miles
(W.) from Banff; containing, with the village of White-
hills, 1501 inhabitants. This place, from which Banff
was disjoined about the year 1635, was anciently called
Inverboindie, signifying " the mouth of the Boindie,"
in consequence of the situation of the old church, now
in ruins, near the spot where the small stream of the
Boindie falls into the sea. The word Boindie is sup-
posed to be a diminutive of Boyn, the name of a larger
stream bounding the parish on the west. The parish is
bounded by the Moray Frith, and is nearly of triangular
form, the northern line measuring between two and three
miles, the south-eastern about five miles and a half, and
the western boundary between four and five miles. It
comprises 5000 Scottish acres, of which 3600 are culti-
vated, 600 plantations, and the remainder uncultivated,
waste, and pasture. The surface is level, with the ex-
ception of the fine cultivated valley of the Boindie, and
is but little elevated above the sea ; the coast, on the
north, is in general rocky, with a portion of sandy
beach, and at the eastern extremity is the Knockhead,
a headland running out into a reef of rocks, visible at
half-tide, called the Salt-Stones. Here the coast turns
southerly, forming one side of a bay ; and the shore be-
tween this point and the part where the Boindie empties
itself into the sea, measures something less than a mile,
and consists of a beach of sand and gravel. The har-
bours are, one situated at the fishing village of White-
hills, of small extent, with about ten feet depth of water
at spring tides, used for two or three vessels employed
in the herring-fishery, and the importation of salt, coal,
&c. ; and another a little to the east, affording also
accommodation for the prosecution of the herring and
salmon fishings, and for the exportation of tiles.
The climate, in the upper part of the parish, is
humid and bleak, but in the opposite part dry and salu-
brious. The soil most prevalent is a light earth, on a
retentive subsoil, the exceptions being certain tracts
in the centre of the parish, chiefly clay and loam
of rich quality, and some land in the eastern portion
consisting of a deep, black, sandy mould on a porous
subsoil, which produces heavy and early crops. This
parish was one of the first in the north of Scotland in
which the system of alternate crops, and turnip hus-
bandry, were practised, having been introduced here
about the year 1754, by the last Earl of Findlater, at
that time Lord Deskford, who also formed the older
13 O I N
BOLE
plantations in the place. Oats and bailey are the prin-
cipal kinds of grain, and among the green crops, the
cultivation of turnips receives much attention. The
range of pasture is limited, but 1000 head of oxen are
annually grazed, comprising the polled Buchan and
Banffshire horned breeds, with some crosses with the
Teeswater stock, many of which are fed for the London
market. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£4168. The rocks comprise greywacke, primitive lime-
stone, slate, and hornblende; and to the east of Whitehills,
is a diluvial clay, in extensive beds, containing specimens
of belemnites, cornua ammonis, &c, and supplying ma-
terial for a brick and tile work. The wood, consisting,
for the most part, of Scotch fir, with sprinklings of
larch, beech, and other trees, is generally in a thriving
condition ; and there are some portions of hard-wood
near the ancient castle of Boyn, which, being favoured
by shelter and a superior soil, are in an exceedingly
flourishing state. This mansion, the family seat of
the Ogilvies till the transfer of the estates to the
ancestor of the present owner, at the beginning of the
last century, is beautifully situated at the western ex-
tremity of the parish, on the Boyn water, and is now
ruinous. The surrounding scenery, among which are
visible the remains of a more ancient mansion, is highly
picturesque ; and attached to the castle is an orchard,
abounding in black and white wild cherries. The bleach-
ing and preparation of threads and stockings for market,
were formerly carried on to some extent, but the only
work connected with manufactures now existing is a
wool-carding mill, on the burn of Boyn, attached to
which are works for the weaving and dyeing of cloth.
There are also a saw-mill, a lint-mill, a flour and barley
mill, and several meal-mills. The turnpike-road from
Banff to Portsoy and Inverness runs through the parish,
from east to west, and a branch shoots off to Keith
and Huntly, besides which there are several good
county roads, and numerous bridges over the streams,
for facility of communication. A cattle-fair has been
recently instituted at Ordens, and is held eight times
yearly.
The parish is in the presbytery of Fordyce and synod
of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of the Earl of Sea-
field ; the minister's stipend is £204. 19. 3., with an
excellent manse, just built, and a glebe valued at £12 per
annum. The church, accommodating 600 persons, was
erected in 1773 : the ruin of the old edifice still re-
mains, with its burial-ground, and stands on a site near
the sea, where a battle with the Danes is supposed to
have taken place, in the reign of Malcolm II., to whose
personal friend, St. Bovenden, or Brandon, a monk, the
edifice was dedicated. The members of the Free Church
and the Wesleyans have places of worship. The paro-
chial school affords instruction in Greek, Latin, and
mathematics, in addition to the usual branches ; the
master has a salary of £25. 12. 4., and £22. 12. fees,
and also shares in the Dick bequest. The Rev. James
Stewart, a native of the parish, left, in 1S09, a sum now
amounting to £390, the produce to be equally divided
for the support of six poor persons, and for the educa-
tion of six boys, who are natives. There are several
remains of Druidical circles, cairns, and military works ;
and various relics of antiquity have, at different times,
been found, the most interesting of which are, a short
Roman sword, deposited in the armoury at Duff House,
139
and a seal, composed of fine clay-slate, marked with the
arms of Bishop James Kennedy, who founded the uni-
versity of St. Andrew's. Thomas Ruddiman, the well-
known author of a Latin grammar, was a native of the
parish.
BOLE, a hamlet, in the parish of Fiescobie, county
of Forfar ; containing 17 inhabitants.
BOLESKINE and ABERTARFF, a parish, in the
county of Inverness; containing the village and post-
town of Fort-Augustus, 131 miles (N. W.) from Edin-
burgh; and comprising 1876 inhabitants. The name
of Boleskine has usually been traced to the Gaelic term
Bail-os-cionn, which signifies " the town hanging above
the loch" (Loch Ness). Another derivation, however, has
been assigned to it, by which it is identified with the com-
pound term Boile-eas-ceann ; ceann signifying "height"
or " summit," eas a " cataract," and boile " fury," which,
taken together, would mean " the summit of the furious
cascade," viz., the fall of Foyers. The whole of the
parish, previously to the fifteenth century, was the pro-
perty of the Lovat family ; and before that period, it is
supposed to have been possessed by the Cummins, a
very powerful and warlike clan ; the place of Fort-
Augustus being still called, in the common language of
the district, Kilkhuiman, or "the burial-place of the
Cummins." Strath-herric, a district of Boleskine, was
anciently possessed by the clan Grant, the time and
cause of whose departure are uncertain. Before the
year 1545, the parish is said to have been occupied by
the tribes of Mc Gruer, Me Imesheir, and Mc Tavish, re-
tainers of the Lovat family, and the principal of whom,
having accompanied Lord Lovat, in his expedition to
settle the heir of the Clanronald family in his father's
estate, were, in their return from the Hebrides, inter-
cepted at the east end of Lochlochy, by the clan
McDonald, and almost extirpated. The numerous off-
spring descended from the Frasers killed in that en-
gagement, in process of time, spread throughout the
parish ; and Foyers is now the seat of the representa-
tive of this ancient and powerful clan. The parish is
twenty-one miles long, and about ten broad, and its sur-
face is considerably diversified throughout. The district
of Strath-herric consists of flat lands, with a few undu-
lations, near which is a great extent of hilly ground, and
in the eastern quarter is a range of high hills called
Monadhliath : tracts of low land are to be seen in other
parts, suited to the growth of oats, barley, and potatoes.
There are about twelve lakes, exclusive of Loch Ness,
which is twenty-four miles long, and about one mile
and a half broad, and bounds the parish, on the north,
for fourteen miles : this lake, in the middle, is from 106
to 130 fathoms deep, and near the sides from 65 to 75,
and, from its great depth, never freezes : the ground
around rises to a considerable height, and is ornamented
with a variety of trees. In Abertarff, are two streams
that fall into Loch Ness, named Oich and Tarff, which
latter gives name to the district of Abertarff; and there
are two celebrated cascades in the parish, formed by
the same river, within less than half a mile of each,
other, and known by the name of the fall of Foyers, the
grandeur and magnificence of which, increased by the
sublimity of the surrounding scenery, can be adequately
conceived by those only who have beheld the spectacle.
The soil exhibits all the varieties of gravel, clay, till,
loam, and peat-moss, and is generally of a poor or mid-
T2
BOLT
BONA
dling character ; the parish is mainly devoted to the rear-
ing of sheep, of which about 30,000 are kept, all of the
Cheviot breed, and the wool is sold chiefly to wool-
staplers in the north of England. The greater part of
the district is without inclosures, but good farm-build-
ings have been erected on the principal lands, where,
also, good fences are seen : the rocks consist of blue
and red granite, which exists in large quantities, and
limestone is also plentiful, but not much wrought. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £5SS7. There is
a salmon-fishery, which lets for £30 a year. Annual
fairs are held at Fort-Augustus, in the beginning of
June and end of September, chiefly for the sale of cattle,
but at which, also, some traffic is carried on by pedlers
and others ; and occasional trysts take place in spring
and autumn, for black cattle. The only turnpike-road
is the old military road, which runs for about twenty-
two miles, on the south side of the parish, and is kept
in good order. There are also three district roads, in
indifferent repair; and the Caledonian canal, which passes
through the parish, opens a communication, by means
of steam-packets and other vessels, to many places.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the presbytery
of Abertarff and synod of Glenelg ; the patronage be-
longs to Professor Scott, of Aberdeen, and the minister's
stipend is £238. 2. 2. There is an excellent manse,
with offices, and the glebe comprises upwards of fifty-
two acres, of which thirty-five are in good cultiva-
tion, and the remainder indifferent pasture : till about
seventy years since, there were two glebes in the united
parishes, one near Fort-Augustus, and the other on the
banks of Loch Ness, both eligible and desirable tracts
of land, which were exchanged for the present glebe.
The church, conveniently situated for the bulk of the
population, was built in 1*77, and seats 42S persons.
There is a missionary in connexion with the Established
Church, who regularly officiates at Fort-Augustus ; and
in the same district is a Roman Catholic chapel. In
the parochial school, Latin, Gaelic, and the ordinary
branches of education are taught, and the master has
a salary of £30, with about £13. 10. fees. — See Fort-
Augustus.
BOLTON, a parish, in the county of Haddington,
2 miles (S. by YV.) from Haddington; containing 341
inhabitants. This manor, in 156S, belonged to Hep-
burn of Bolton, who, as the associate of the Earl of
Bothwell, was executed for the murder of the Earl of
Darnley ; and on its consequent forfeiture, it was
granted to William Maitland, better known as Secre-
tary Lethington. The parish, which is about six miles
in length, and one mile and a quarter in average breadth,
is bounded on the east and north-east by the Gifford or
Bolton water, and comprises 2451 Scottish acres, of
which 295 are woodland, 55 meadow and pasture, and
the remainder arable. The surface, though pleasingly
undulated, possesses little other variety, seldom rising
to any considerable elevation ; the scenery is, however,
enriched with woods, in which are some remarkably
fine trees. The chief stream is the Bolton water, which is
the boundary between this parish and that of Hadding-
ton, for nearly three miles ; it rises in the Lammermoor
hills, and, receiving various tributary streams in its
descent, flows with a rapid current through the parish,
and falls into the Tyne near Haddington. It adds
greatly to the scenery of the parish, having banks
140
crowned with thriving plantations, and abounds with
trout of excellent quality. The Birns water, a small
stream rising also in the Lammermoor hills, after form-
ing a boundary between this parish and that of Hunibie,
falls into the Tyne at Salton ; there are also various
springs of good water, affording an abundant supply for
domestic use.
The soil is generally a fertile clay, with the exception
of a small portion of inferior quality. The principal
crops are, wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, and turnips ;
the lands are well drained and inclosed, and all the
modern improvements in husbandry, and in agricultural
implements, have been adopted. Considerable atten-
tion is paid to the breed of live stock, and many
sheep and cattle are fed on the green crops throughout
the winter season. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £3072. The woods consist of the various
kinds of forest trees, of which many are of ancient and
stately growth ; and on the grounds of Eaglescarnie,
are some remarkably fine chesnut-trees. The principal
substrata are, sandstone of coarse texture, and green-
stone of very compact quality, but no quarries have been
opened ; limestone is supposed to exist, but none has
hitherto been worked. The only mansion-house is
Eaglescarnie, pleasantly situated near the bank of the
Bolton water, which flows through the demesne ; the
lands are embellished with thriving and extensive plan-
tations. The ancient manor-house of Bolton has long
since disappeared ; and the only remaining memorial of
it is the site on which it stood, still called the Orchard
Park. The parish is in the presbytery of Haddington
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the minister's
stipend is £153. 15. 5., with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £1S per annum ; patron, Lord Blantyre. The
church, erected in 1809, is a handsome structure in the
later English style, with a square embattled tower, and
is well adapted for a congregation of 350 persons. The
parochial school affords instruction to about SO scho-
lars ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with £40
fees, and a house and garden. There are some remains
of a Roman camp, of quadrilateral form, occupying an
area of more than five acres.
BON-ACCORD, late a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Old Aberdeen, district and county of Aber-
deen ; containing 51/0 inhabitants. This district, which
comprises about 2S acres, and is wholly situated within
the town of Old Aberdeen, was separated in 1S34. The
church was built in 1S23, by a congregation of Scottish
Baptists, from whom it was purchased in 182S, as a
chapel of ease to the parish church, at an expense of
£1250; it is a neat structure, containing S40 sittings,
and the minister's stipend is £150, derived from the
seat-rents. There are places of worship for members of
the Free Church and Baptists ; also several Sabbath
schools, and a library of 500 volumes connected with
the Established Church.
BONAR, a village, in the parish of Criech, county
of Sutherland, 12 miles (W.) from Dornoch ; contain-
ing 247 inhabitants. It is prettily seated on the north-
ern shore of Dornoch Frith, at the junction of the
Assynt, Reay, Caithness, and Ross-shire roads, and has
latterly rapidly increased from a small hamlet to a good-
sized village, owing to the erection of a bridge, by which
it has become the chief entrance into the county from
the opposite shore, and it is likely to be the nucleus of a
B O N H
BONJ
future town of considerable extent and importance.
The bridge, called Bonar Bridge, is of one iron and
two stone arches, and was built, in 1S12, by the land-
owners of the county, at a cost of about £14,000. Some
trade is carried on with this village and neighbourhood,
by means of small vessels, for which there is a sufficient
depth of water ; and markets for the sale of cattle, are
held in July, August, and September.
BO'NESS. — See Borrowstounness.
BONGATE, a village, in the parish and district of
Jedburgh, county of Roxburgh ; containing 241 in-
habitants.
BONHILL, a parish, in the county of Dumbarton,
3 miles (N.) from Dumbarton ; containing, with the
villages of Alexandria, Dalvait, Damhead, and Mill of
Haldane, 6682 inhabitants, of whom 2041 are in the vil-
lage of Bonhill. The name of this parish was originally
written Buchnall, afterwards Bulhill, and, at length,
Bunnul; it is supposed to be a corruption of the Gaelic
word Bogh n uill, which signifies " the foot of the
rivulet." The whole lands former!)7 belonged to the
family of Lennox, but, in the 15th century, the Darnley
family, by marriage, obtained one-half of the estate, with
the titles, and the other half was afterwards divided
between the families of Napier and Gleneagles ; Dar-
leith was the property of the Darleiths, who are said to
have been hereditary followers of the earls of Lennox.
The Castle of Belloch, or Balloch, here, was the early
seat of the Lennox family, whose charters are often
dated hence in the 13th and 14th centuries ; the site
is still marked by the fosse, but no remains of the build-
ing are visible. The Lindsays, a family of note, also
anciently resided in the parish; their ancestors were
knights in the reign of David II., and they acquired
the estate by grant from their relation, the Earl of
Lennox, by whom, also, they were appointed foresters
of the earldom. The male line failing soon after the
Restoration, the estate passed to Sir James Smollett,
provost, and representative of Dumbarton in parliament,
and afterwards a commissioner of the union.
The parish is 4| miles in length, and 4 in breadth,
and comprises 5752 acres, whereof 3056 are arable, 53S
plantation, and the remainder uncultivated moor. The
river Leven, which is remarkable for the softness and
clearness of its water, issues from Loch Lomond, at
Balloch, flows through the parish, and falls into the
Frith of Clyde at Dumbarton Castle, after a course of
about nine miles. The tide runs up it for about three
miles, and it is navigable throughout its whole extent ;
it produces excellent salmon and a variety of other fish.
The soil in the vale of the Leven is alluvial, and where
any excavations have been made, has under it, at differ-
ent depths, and of different thicknesses, successive beds
of fine sand, coarse gravel, and shell marl. The soil of
the high grounds, on the east side of the vale to the
extent of three-fourths, and on the west side of it to the
extent of one-half, is incumbent on red sandstone, soft
and porous, except at a great depth ; the soil of the
other half of the west side lies upon a blueish sandstone,
susceptible of a fine polish, but brittle, and with indu-
rated nodules of a purplish clay here and there im-
bedded in it. The woods are famed for the number of
woodcocks which visit them in winter, and the river and
lake for the great variety of aquatic birds. The lands
are all cultivated according to the most improved
141
methods, and furrow-draining, and the subsoil plough,
have been adopted with great advantage to the ground ;
the horses are of the Clydesdale breed, and the Ayr-
shire cows are used for the dairy. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £16,7*6. The mansions are, the
House of Darleith, the ancient seat of Bonhill, the modern
castles of Balloch and Tillichewen, and the houses of
Broomly, Woodbank, Cameron, Belretiro, and Arden.
Bleachfields and print-works form the chief employ-
ment of the place, and since their establishment the
population has rapidly increased. The parish long ago
acquired celebrity for its bleaching processes, from the
introduction of workmen from Holland and the esta-
blishment of bleachfields on the Dutch method : the
first print-field on the Leven, however, was not begun
till about the year 176S, and even then, the printing
was almost entire!)' confined to handkerchiefs, and done,
by block-printing, but copperplate presses were soon
erected, and afterwards presses to be driven by water.
During the present century, the number of the works
has much increased, and both departments are now
simultaneously carried on in the same establishments.
The works in operation are those of Dalmonaeh, Bon-
hill, Ferryfield, Levenfield, Levenbank, and Alexandria;
Dalliehip, Kirkland, and Mil burn, for bleaching, dyeing,
and printing ; and Milburn works for producing pyro-
ligneous acid, tar, pyroxilic spirit, kreosote, &c, at
which works, also, a fine Prussian blue is manufactured.
At these various places, steam-engines and water-wheels
are in operation, and the total number of persons em-
ployed is about 4000. A fair is held at Bonhill on the
first Thursday in February, and another at Balloch on
September 15th, both for horses. The ecclesiastical
affairs are subject to the presbyter)- of Dumbarton and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr: the minister's stipend is
about £200, with a manse, and a glebe of the annual
value of £30. The patronage is in the Campbell family,
of Stonefield. The church, a plain structure, with a
tower, was opened in 1836, and contains 1200 sittings :
another church, on the General Assembly's Extension
scheme, was opened in 1S40; and the Relief Congrega-
tion and Independents have places of worship. In the
churchyard of the parochial church, is an ancient and
gigantic ash-tree, which, in the agricultural survey of the
shire, published in 1S11, is said to measure, round its
trunk, eighteen feet where smallest ; it has long been
the wonder and admiration of numerous beholders, but
is now going rapidly to decay. Until lately there was
another ash in the parish, of still larger dimensions, in
the trunk of which a room was formed, nine feet in dia-
meter. A place of worship has been erected for the Free
Church. Two parochial schools are supported, the
master of each of which has a salary of £21. ~ ., with
about £15 fees, and a house and garden ; and there is
a mechanics' institution in the parish. Near the border
of the parish, is a monument to Dr. Smollett.
BONJEDWARD, a village, in the parish and dis-
trict of Jedburgh, county of Roxburgh ; containing
107 inhabitants. This was formerly one of the seats of
the Douglas family, who had a stronghold in the village,
which was demolished in the course of the last century.
The village is pleasantly situated, and the lands are
fertile, and in good cultivation ; there are some corn-
mills here, and the inhabitants are chiefly employed in
agriculture.
BORE
BORG
BONKLE, a village, in the parish of Cambusne-
than, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; contain-
ing 110 inhabitants. It is a small romantic village,
situated on the northern boundary of the parish, and on
the road from Steuart-Town to Shotts. The United
Associate Synod have a place of worship here.
BONNINGTON, a village, in the parish of Ratho,
county of Edinburgh, If mile (S. W.) from Ratho;
containing 132 inhabitants. It is situated east of the
Amond water, and a short distance north of the road
between Edinburgh and East Calder. Ratho House, a
modern mansion, is in the vicinity ; and in the village
is a small school.
BONNINGTON, a hamlet, in the parish of Arbir-
lot, county of Forfar ; containing 67 inhabitants.
BONNYBRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Fal-
kirk, county of Stirling, 4 miles (W. S. W.) from
Falkirk ; containing 1S4 inhabitants. This village is
pleasantly situated on the turnpike-road to Glasgow,
and on the eastern bank of the river Bonny, which sepa-
rates the western portion of the parish from the parishes
of Denny and Dunipace. The inhabitants are chiefly
employed in agriculture, and in the various works in the
adjacent neighbourhood. At Bonnymuir, in the imme-
diate vicinity, is a distillery, in which about twelve
persons are regularly engaged, and which, on an
average, pays government duties amounting to £150
weekly ; and at Bonnyside, is a saw-mill, driven by
water, in which fourteen persons are employed. A
school has been established here, of which the master
has a salary of £4, arising from a bequest of £100 by
Mr. Scott ; and he has also a house and garden rent-
free. In the neighbourhood of Bonnybridge is a small
burying-place.
BONNYRIGG, a village, in the parish of Cockpen,
county of Edinburgh, 3 miles (N. W.) from Cockpen ;
containing 650 inhabitants. It is a considerable village,
situated on the road between Laswade and Cockpen, in
the northern part of the parish ; and in the vicinity,
are extensive coal-works. A school has been established
here.
BOOSHALA ISLE, in the parish of Kilninian,
county of Argyll. It is one of the Hebrides, and lies
south of Staffa, from which island it is separated by a
stormy channel about 90 feet wide ; it is of an irregular
pyramidal form, entirely composed of basaltic pillars,
inclining in every direction.
BORA HOLM ISLE, in the parish of Rendal,
county of Orkney. It is situated opposite to the
entrance of a harbour called the Mill-Burn, in the
isle of Gairsay, and is uninhabited.
BORELAND, a village, in the parish of Dysart,
district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, \ a mile (N. by
E.) from Dysart; containing 193 inhabitants. This
place, which is situated about half a mile to the south-
east of the village of Gallaton, was built about the
middle of the last century, and is chiefly inhabited by
persons employed in the collieries in the neighbourhood,
which were formerly carried on to a much greater ex-
tent, than at present. Since the limitation of those
works, within the last twenty years, the population of
this village has diminished from more than 300 to its
present number. A school has been endowed, the mas-
ter of which has a schoolroom and dwelling-house rent-
free, a supply of coal, and a salary.
142
BORERAY, an island, in the quoad sacra parish of
Trumisgarry, island of North Uist, county of Inver-
ness ; containing 1S1 inhabitants. It lies a little south
of North Uist, and west of Bernera, in the Sound of
Harris ; and is about three miles in circumference, and
rather fertile, having a fresh- water lake. A considerable
quantity of kelp is made, and is the chief employment of
the population.
BORGUE, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirkcud-
bright, 5 miles (S. W. by W.) from Kirkcudbright;
containing, with the villages of Chapelton and Kirk-
Andrews, 1060 inhabitants, of whom 47 are in the
village of Borgue. This place, of which the name is
descriptive of the eminence whereon the church is built,
comprehends the ancient parishes of Kirk-Andrews and
Sandwick, which, after the dilapidation of their churches,
now in ruins, were united with it in 1670. The parish
is situated on the river Dee, and bounded by the Solway
Frith ; it is about ten miles in length, and seven miles
in extreme breadth, and comprises 12,864 acres, of
which about S000 are arable, about 250 woodland and
plantations, and the remainder rough pasture. The
surface of the parish is undulated, and diversified
with hills of moderate elevation. The coast is indented
with numerous bays, and is bold and rocky, and in
some parts precipitously steep, rising in cliffs of irregular
and fantastic form, towards the heads called Borness
and Muncraig, which command an extensive view, em-
bracing a wide expanse of sea, with a beautiful variety
of vale and mountain scenery, including the course of
the river Dee, the town of Kirkcudbright, the rich
foliage of St. Mary's Island, the range of the Cumberland
mountains, the Isle of Man, and the coast of Wigton.
The more level parts, inclosed by numerous gentle hills,
formed several small lakes, which have been drained,
though enough are still remaining to afford an abundant
supply of water ; and scattered over the surface, are
not less than thirty mounds, called drums, from 200 to
300 yards in length, the grounds around which are wet
and marshy.
The soil is what is called free mould of various qua-
lity, well adapted for oats and barley, but not of suffi-
cient depth for wheat; the chief crops are, oats, barley,
potatoes, and turnips, with the various grasses ; the
system of agriculture is improved. A considerable quan-
tity of waste land has been rendered profitable by effec-
tive draining. The fences, mostly of stone, are kept in
good repair, and the farm-buildings and offices are
generally substantial and commodious ; bone-dust is
used for manure, and the soil has been benefited by the
judicious use of lime, by which much of the moss has
been converted into good pasture land. The cattle are
principally of the Galloway breed, and the sheep of the
Leicester and Cheviot breeds. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £9554. The rocks are mainly of
the transition formation, and the principal substrata,
greywacke, slate, and clay-slate ; there are some quar-
ries of stone, from which materials are raised for the
fences and for common building purposes. The planta-
tions are comparatively of modern growth, and are
well managed, and in a thriving state. Earlston is a
handsome mansion in the parish, recently erected, and
beautifully situated in a richly-wooded demesne, com-
manding a fine view of Wigton bay and the Cumberland
mountains.
BO RR
B O II It
The village population is agricultural and pastoral ;
and from the proximity of a convenient harbour, one of
the farmers has built two vessels, for the exportation of
grain. Salmon is found in great abundance in the
river Dee, and also in the bays with which the south-
western coast of the parish is indented. The ecclesias-
tical affairs are under the superintendence of the pres-
bytery of Kirkcudbright and synod of Galloway ; the
minister's stipend is about £265, with a manse, and
the glebe, including those of Kirk-Andrews and Sand-
wick, is valued at £40 per annum ; patron, the Crown.
The church, conveniently situated nearly in the centre of
the parish, is an elegant cruciform structure in the early
English style, with a lofty square embattled tower,
erected in 1S14, and containing 500 sittings; from its
elevated site, it forms a conspicuous object, and is seen
at a great distance. There is a place of worship for
members of the Free Church. The Borgue Academy,
which is an extension of the parochial school, under the
endowment of Mr. Rainy, of the island of Dominica,
who bequeathed £3000 for the promotion of education
in his native parish, is under the management of a head
master, who has a salary of £34. 4. 4. in addition to the
fees, and an assistant, whose salary is paid from the
endowment. The usual number of scholars is 120, of
whom 20 are taught gratuitously, their fees being paid
from the same bequest. The poor are partly supported
by collections at the church ; and the deficiency is sup-
plied from Mr. Rainy's .endowment, and the proceeds of
small charitable bequests. There are some slight re-
mains of ancient castles, several British forts, and various
other relics of antiquity, in the parish.
BORLAND-PARK, a village, in the parish of Auce-
terarder, county of Perth, | a mile (N. W.) from
Auchterarder ; containing 141 inhabitants. This vil-
lage was built by government, for the accommodation of
the disbanded military, after the conclusion of the war,
in 1"63 ; but was soon deserted by the soldiers for
whose residence it was originally designed, and is now
inhabited chiefly by weavers, employed by the manufac-
turers of Glasgow.
BORROWSTOUN, a village, in the parish of Bor-
rowstounness, county of Linlithgow, \ of a mile (S.)
from Borrowstounness ; containing 60 inhabitants.
BORROWSTOUNNESS, a sea-port town, burgh of
barony, and parish, in the county of Linlithgow,
3 miles (N.) from Linlithgow ; containing, with the
villages of Borrowstoun and Newton, 2347 inhabitants,
of whom 1790 are in the town. This place, near which
stood Kinneil, the head of the barony of that name,
granted by Robert Bruce to the ancestor of the dukes of
Hamilton, in acknowledgment of his military services on
the field of Bannockburn, appears to have originated in
the erection of some buildings on a point of land boldly
projecting into the Frith of Forth, about three-quarters
of a mile to the north of the small village of Burwards-
town, or Borrowstoun, from which circumstance it
derived its name, Borrowstounness, or, by contrac-
tion, Bo'ness. In 1600, there was only one solitary house
on the site of the present town, while the ancient town of
Kinneil, which had grown up near the baronial castle
of Kinneil, contained more than 500 inhabitants ; but
the advantageous situation of the ness, and the abun-
dance of coal in the immediate vicinity, soon attracted
shipping to its port ; and the prosperous state of trade
143
about the commencement of the 17th century, in-
duced many rich merchants and ship-owners to settle
in the town, which, from that time, rapidly advanced.
In 1634, the increase of its population, and the distance
of the parish church of Kinneil, situated near the baro-
nial mansion, induced the inhabitants to erect a church
for themselves, in which the minister of Kinneil con-
tinued to officiate alternately, for their accommodation,
till the year 1649, when, on their petition to parliament,
the town of Borrowstounness, with its environs, was
separated from the parish of Kinneil, and erected into
an independent parish. In 1669, the Duke of Hamil-
ton obtained from the Scottish parliament, an act
declaring the church of this town the parish church of
the whole barony of Kinneil and Borrowstounness, since
which time the two have been consolidated into one pa-
rish. The place continued to increase in prosperity,
and, from the superiority of its situation for trade, to
withdraw the population from Kinneil, which, in 1691,
contained only a few families, and ultimately wholly
disappeared ; and the town upon the ness was erected
into a burgh of barony, under the Duke of Hamilton,
in 174S.
The town is situated in the north-eastern extremity
of the parish, on the south shore of the Frith of Forth,
and consists principally of narrow streets, of houses of
ancient and irregular appearance. It was formerly one
of the most thriving towns on the eastern coast, and,
prior to 17S0, ranked as the third sea-port in Scotland;
and though the opening of the Forth and Clyde canal,
and the establishment of the port of Grangemouth, have
contributed much to diminish its commerce, it is still
far from being inconsiderable. The female population
were once employed in tambour-work to a very large
extent, and many females are yet engaged in that pur-
suit ; a pottery was established in 1734, and has, since
that time, been greatly increased ; there is ah extensive
foundry, and some chemical-works are also carried on,
upon a large scale. A distillery is in full operation,
paying weekly to government more than £300, for
duties ; there are several large malting establishments ;
and at the east end of the town, and on the links, are a
rope-walk and extensive wood-yards, connected with
which is a saw-mill worked by steam, of which the
engine is also employed in the preparation of bone-dust,
for manure. The chief trade of the port is in grain, for
which the merchants have extensive granaries, capable
of warehousing 15,000 quarters ; a considerable trade is
also carried on in the exportation of salt, coal, iron-
stone, and earthenware ; the imports are timber, iron,
flax, grain, bark, and madder. The number of vessels
registered as belonging to the port, in a recent year, was
101, of the aggregate burthen of 6521 tons ; and the
amount of duties paid at the custom-house was £4S24.
The harbour, which has been greatly improved, under
the superintendence of fifteen trustees, chosen from the
merchants and ship-owners, is one of the safest and
most accessible 011 this part of the coast, and is formed
by two piers, extending 56S feet into the Frith ; it is
240 feet wide, and, at spring tides, has an average depth
of from 16 to 18 feet. Between the piers, a broad wall
has been constructed, cutting off, towards the land, a
basin, which is easily filled with water by the tide,
and at low water emptied by sluices, by which means
the harbour is cleansed and deepened ; and on the west
BORR
B ORT
side of the basin, is a patent-slip, to which vessels are
admitted for repair. The jurisdiction of the port once
extended from Dumbrissle point and the water of Cra-
mond to the port of Alloa, including both shores of the
Frith; but in 1S10, Grangemouth, formerly a creek,
was constituted a distinct port. The custom-house de-
partment consists of a comptroller, a collector, a tide-
waiter, and eight other officers, including those of the
creeks. There were once eight ships belonging to the
place, employed in the whale-fishery, but that trade has
for some years been decreasing, and at present only one
vessel is engaged in it ; there are two boiling-houses for
extracting the oil, one of which has been recently much
improved. The steamers of Stirling touch here, on
their passage to and from Newhaven. A branch from
the town to the Forth and Clyde' canal was commenced
by a subscription of £10,000, raised under an act of
parliament, in 1/82, and an aqueduct across the Avon
constructed for that purpose ; but the work was aban-
doned after an outlay of £7500, before it was half com-
pleted, and has not since been resumed. A market is
held weekly on Monday, and a fair annually on the
16th of November; a pleasure-fair is also held, in July.
The burgh is governed by a baron-bailie, appointed by
the Duke of Hamilton, as superior : a building erected
by one of the dukes, for a court-house and prison, is
situated at the head of the harbour, but is now occupied
chiefly as a granary.
The parish is bounded on the north by the Frith of
Forth, and on the south and west by the river Avon;
it is of triangular form, about four miles in length, from
east to west, and two miles in breadth, comprising about
3000 acres, of which 270 are woodland and plantations,
and the remainder arable, in the highest state of culti-
vation, of which 430 acres are esteemed to be the
richest carse land in the country. The surface, with
the exception of the carse, is considerably varied, rising
towards the south-eastern extremity of the parish, to a
height of 520 feet above the level of the sea ; from this
eminence, which is called the Hill of Irongath, the
ground slopes gradually to the south and west, and is
embellished with stately timber and strips of plantations,
to the very margin of the Avon. This river, from its
numerous windings near the parish, forms an inter-
esting feature in the scenery, in many points of view;
and the Dean and Gil burns, flowing through romantic
dells near Kinneil House, add greatly to its beauty. The
soil is mostly fertile, and the chief crops are, wheat,
barley, oats, beans, and the usual green crops ; the sys-
tem of agriculture is good ; draining has been practised
to a considerable extent, and all the more recent im-
provements in husbandry have been generally adopted.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £8369. The
substratum is of the coal formation, with very little
variety ; the coal occurs in seams of great thickness,
is of excellent quality, and has been wrought from
a remote period, to a very great extent, though, within
the last half century, the works have been discontinued.
Ironstone is likewise found, and was formerly wrought ;
there are some quarries of good freestone, and also of
whinstone and limestone, but the last is of inferior qua-
lity, and more used for building than for agricultural
purposes. Kinneil House, one of the seats of the Duke
of Hamilton, is an ancient mansion, beautifully situated
on the brow of a steep bank commanding a fine view of
144
the Frith, and has undergone various changes made in
it at different times. The ancient castle was, some time
since, modernised by a new front, and the battlements
replaced by a balustrade ; the original windows were
enlarged ; and a range of building, projecting at right
angles from the northern extremity, was added, to
which a corresponding wing, on the south, was pro-
bably contemplated, the whole to form three sides of a
quadrangle. The approach is by a stately avenue of
venerable trees ; and the ample and richly-varied
demesne by which it is surrounded, abounds with beau-
tifully picturesque scenery. The numerous apartments
of this once princely mansion are now unoccupied ; and
among the tenants who have resided in it, since it was
deserted by its noble proprietor, have been the cele-
brated Dugald Stewart, and James Watt, the improver
of the steam-engine.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Linlithgow and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale ; patron, the Duke of Hamilton ;
the minister's stipend is £272. 7- 7-, partly arising from
lands bequeathed for that purpose, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £21 per annum. The church, nearly
rebuilt in 1775, and enlarged in 1820, is a neat plain
structure, containing 950 sittings ; there are still some
remains of the ancient church of Kinneil, near Kinneil
House. A place of worship has been erected for mem-
bers of the United Secession. The parochial school is
attended by about fifty children ; the master has a
salary of £34. 4. 4., with a house and garden, and the
fees average about £40 per annum. A parochial library,
in which is a collection of about 1250 volumes, is sup-
ported by subscription. There are, in various parts of
the parish, traces of the wall of Antoninus, which is
supposed to have passed by Kinneil. Near the farm
of Upper Kinneil, was a cairn called the Laughing Hill,
in which were found four stone coffins containing black
mould, and four urns, in an inverted position, contain-
ing human bones; and a similar coffin and urn were
found, in the side of an eminence called Bell's Know,
immediately above the town of Bornrwstounness. Below
Kinneil House, upon the coast, and near the lands
called the Snab, was the castle of Lyon, of which some
remains of the garden wall, and a path leading from it
to the shore, called the Castle-Loan, are the only
memorials.
BORTHWICK, a parish, in the county of Edin-
burgh, 3 miles (E. by N.) from Temple; containing,
with the villages of Clayhouse, Dewartown, Middleton,
North Middleton, Newlandrig, and part of Stobbsmills,
1617 inhabitants. This place, anciently called Locher-
wart, assumed the appellation of Borthwick about the
time of the Reformation, from the family of that
name. The most remote possessors of the extensive
estates in this district of whom we have any account,
were the family of Lyne, who occupied the domain till
the reign of Alexander II., when it passed to the Hays,
who, in the time of James I., disposed of the lands to
Sir William de Borthwick, founder of the magnificent
castle afterwards so celebrated in Scottish history. This
personage was created Lord Borthwick in 1433 ; and the
castle thus became the seat of a barony, and, by a spe-
cial license obtained from the king, was fortified in a
very complete manner, and supplied with every thing
necessary for its safety and defence. The descendants
B O It T
BORT
of this baron were illustrious for the general character
of integrity and honour which they sustained, and for
the part they took in the public transactions of their
times. William, the third lord, was slain, with James
IV., at trie fatal battle of Flodden ; John, the fifth lord,
was a zealous supporter of Queen Mary, who occa-
sionally visited his castle, and made it an asylum, before
the commencement of her long series of troubles ; and
John, the eighth lord, in the time of the civil wars,
strenuously supported the cause of the Royalists, and,
being besieged in his castle, by Cromwell, after the ex-
ecution of the king, was obliged at length to surrender.
In 1449, the ecclesiastical revenues of the parish were
appropriated to the collegiate church of Crichton. But,
in April, 1596, James I. of England, dissolved from
that establishment several prebendaries, with two boys
or clerks to assist in the performance of divine service
here, assigning to them proper salaries ; and these pre-
bends, with the vicarage of Borthwick, manse, and
glebe, were then, by royal charter, erected into a dis-
tinct charge, called the parsonage of Borthwick. This
arrangement was ratified by parliament, in 1606, and
confirmed by the Archbishop of St. Andrew's, as patron
of the prebends.
The parish is about six miles long, and four miles
broad, and contains about 21,000 acres, of which 19,100
are in tillage or pasture, 700 in plantations, and 1200
are uncultivated. The surface is agreeably undulated,
but from some points the aspect is uninviting, consider-
able tracts of barren moor being spread about, and
lofty eminences frequently meeting the eye, covered
with a poor thin earth, and destitute of pasture. There
are, however, some very picturesque and beautiful val-
leys, watered by winding streams, and numerous farms
in a high state of cultivation, hidden, to a great extent,
from casual view by the protuberances of the higher
grounds. From the summit of Cowbrae Hill, at the
upper boundary of the parish, an extensive prospect
may be obtained of the surrounding country, richly re-
paying the labour of ascending the eminence. The
plantations which have been recently formed have
largely contributed, among other advantages, to im-
prove the appearance of the district ; and in the proper
seasons, the great profusion of plants and flowers, espe-
cially of wild roses, for which this place is famed, makes
it alike inviting to the admirer of garden scenery and
the lover of botanical research. Two burns traverse the
higher part of the parish, called the North and South
Middleton, which, after their junction at the end of the
neck of land on which the castle is situated, take the
name of the Gore, and at length, winding through the
whole extent of the valley, fall into the South Esk at
Shank Point. The soil is various, being in some parts
a fine light mould, and in others loamy, and approach-
ing to heavy clayey earth ; in the vicinity of the rivers,
it consists of a soft alluvial bed, subject to occasional
inundations. All kinds of grain are raised, with the
usual green crops, and the lands are plentifully ma-
nured with farm-yard dung, lime, and bone-dust. The
cattle bred here are the short-horned, and the sheep the
black-faced and Cheviots, although a cross between the
Leicester and Cheviot, on some of the large estates, has
been preferred. A long and barren moor at the base of
the Lammermoors, with other ground of the same de-
scription, has, to a good extent, been cultivated ; and the
Vol. I.— 145
river localities, with several low swamps, have been cleared
of their wild wood, and intersected with proper drains.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £6837. The
rocks consist chiefly of greywacke, limestone, and sand-
stone ; of the first kind are the Lammermoor hills, on the
southern boundary of the parish, and the substance of
Cowbrae Hill is the same. On the abrupt borders of
Currie Wood, a coarse-grained reddish sandstone is
found, in layers, interlined with some lighter- coloured
varieties of the same rock. The sandstone hitherto dis-
covered in the parish contains a strong admixture of
calcareous matter, which greatly deteriorates its value
as a building material ; but the district contains very
superior limestone and coal, which are wrought exten-
sively, and sent to Edinburgh and some of the southern
towns of Scotland. Lime-burning is regularly carried
on, and large quantities are used for agricultural pur-
poses.
Among the chief mansions is the House of Arniston,
an extensive and majestic structure, of baronial appear-
ance, ornamented by numerous ancient trees of un-
usual size, with rich plantations, and finely laid-out
grounds, watered by the beautiful stream of the South
Esk ; most of the old wood is supposed to have been
planted by the first baron of Arniston, Sir James
Dundas, who was knighted by James V., about the year
1530. Middleton House, situated in the higher part
of the parish, is in a similar style, but of smaller
dimensions ; it stands in the midst of thick woods and
verdant fields, surrounded by grounds which attract
considerable admiration. Currie House was formed
about thirty years ago, by enlarging and improving a
house upon the property ; in the vicinity, is Currie
Wood, the prospects from which embrace a tract com-
prising almost every object the union of which may be
conceived necessary to constitute a landscape of finished
and perfect beauty. Vorgie House is a narrow long
building, with little pretension to architectural taste, but
the adjacent grounds are rich, consisting of romantic
glens, ornamented with many very superior and ma-
jestic trees. Harvieston House, in its external appear-
ance, is somewhat similar to that of Vorgie; it was
originally of exceedingly plain appearance, but some
additions were judiciously made to it a few years ago,
and the lands around it have been greatly improved. The
ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of
Dalkeith and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the
Dundas family are pati-ons, and the stipend of the
minister is £19S. 12. 3., with a manse, and a glebe of
about 14 acres. The church, which was built in 1780,
on the destruction of the ancient edifice by fire, contains
about 450 sittings. There is a parochial school, in
which the usual branches of education are taught, and
the master of which has the maximum salary, with £40
from fees, and the legal accommodation of house and
garden ; another school is endowed with a bequest of
£3. 17. per annum, the teacher deriving the rest of his
income from the scholars. The ancient castle, the chief
relic of antiquity in the parish, consists of a single
tower, having an embattled wall of hewn stone, thirteen
feet in thickness near the base, but contracting gradu-
ally to about six feet towards the top ; the proportions
of the building, without the walls, are seventy-four feet
by sixty-eight, and about 110 feet from the area to the
highest part of the roof. It has a sunk apartment,
U
B OS W
BOTH
above which are two large halls, one over the other, the
lower of which is ample, elegant, and finely formed, and
has a roof ornamented with numerous antique devices.
There are also two flights of bed-rooms, and various
other internal and external appendages, constituting the
castle one of the most striking buildings of the class in
Scotland ; it is beautifully situated, and has been famous
in history for the visits and residence of the unfortunate
Queen Mary, while Bothwell was lord of the neigh-
bouring castle of Crichton. The eminent historian, Dr.
Robertson, was born in the manse, where he received
the earliest part of his education.
BOSTON, a quoad sacra parish, in the parish of
Dunse, county of Berwick ; containing 1223 inhabit-
ants. This parish forms part of the town of Dunse,
and derives its name from Thomas Boston, a theological
writer, who was born here in 1676. It was separated
from Dunse in 1839, on the erection of a church, and is
under the presbytery of Dunse and synod of Merse and
Teviotdale ; the minister is elected by the managers and
male communicants. The children of Boston are eligible
to the parochial school of Dunse, possessing the same
right as previously to the separation of the parishes.
BOSWELL'S, ST., a parish, situated in the district
of Melrose, county of Roxburgh, 4 miles (S. E.)
from Melrose ; containing, with the village of Lessudden,
747 inhabitants, This place derives its name from its
church, which is supposed to have been first founded by
St. Boswell, abbot of Melrose, whose disciple, St. Cuth-
bert, flourished in the ninth century ; and traces of the
ancient village of St. Boswell's are still occasionally dis-
covered by the plough. Few historical events are
recorded : the principal one is the burning of the
village, by the English of the border, in 1544, when
many of the inhabitants were killed, and the lands laid
waste ; the village, at that time, is said to have con-
tained many fortified houses. The parish is situated on
the river Tweed, which forms its eastern and northern
boundary, for two miles ; and is about three miles in
length, and one and a half in breadth, comprising an
area of four and a half square miles. The surface is
uneven, rising in the upper portion in ridgy undula-
tions, with intervening valleys, but towards the river
being more level 5 the lower grounds are watered by
numerous springs, and by a rivulet called St. Boswell's
burn, which, in its course towards the Tweed, is aug-
mented by several tributary rills. The scenery is gene-
rally of pleasing character ; and adjoining the village of
Lessudden, is an elevated ridge, from which is obtained
a fine view of the old abbey of Dryburgh, shaded by
venerable woods, and nearly surrounded by the wind-
ings of the Tweed ; and of the remains of Lessudden
Place, an ancient fortress, the property of the Scotts of
Raeburn, forming an exceedingly interesting feature in
the landscape.
The lands, with the exception of about 30 acres on the
steep banks of the river, nearly 180 acres of woodland,
and about 40 acres of common, called St. Boswell's
Green, are all arable, and about 2300 are under cultiva-
tion. The soil, for the greater part, is a stiff clay ; in
the neighbourhood of Lessudden, a black loam ; and in
other parts alluvial. The system of agriculture is good,
and considerable improvements have been made in
draining the lands, and in plantations ; the soil is well
adapted to the growth of forest timber of every kind,
146
and on the lands of Ellieston are some of the most flou-
rishing larch-trees in the kingdom. Lime is to be ob-
tained only from a great distance, and bone-dust has
been substituted, which has been found to succeed well
for turnips ; some progress has been made in embank-
ments against the inundations of the Tweed, and two
have been completed to a considerable extent, on the
farms of Fens and St. Boswell's. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £3S00. There are quarries of
red sandstone, which is of good quality for building,
and, in some places, appears resting on a seam of
whitish-coloured stone of great hardness, strongly im-
pregnated with pyrites of iron ; coal is supposed to exist,
but no attempts to procure it have been attended with
success. To the north of the Green, a very handsome
hunting establishment has been erected by the Duke of
Buccleuch. A fair is held on the Green, on the 18th
of July, or the following Monday, if the ISth happen
on a Sunday; it is frequented by a great concourse
of people from all parts, for the purchase and sale of
Scotch and Irish linens, hardware, books, toys, and
other articles ; and it is a very extensive market also for
sheep and lambs, and for cattle and horses, the sales
which annually take place averaging from £S000 to
£10,000. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the con-
troul of the presbytery of Selkirk and synod of Merse
and Teviotdale; patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. The
stipend of the incumbent is £211. 11. 7.; the manse,
built in 1791, was substantially repaired in 1811, and
the glebe comprises seven acres of excellent land. The
church, situated at the eastern extremity of the parish,
was built near the site of a more ancient structure which
had fallen into decay, and probably about the year
1652 ; it was enlarged and thoroughly repaired in
1837, and affords accommodation to 430 persons. A
place of worship has been erected in connexion with
the Free Church. The parochial school affords educa-
tion to a considerable number of scholars ; the master
has a tolerable salary, with a house and garden rent
free, and the fees.
BOTHKENNAR, a parish, in the county of Stir-
ling, 3 miles (N. by E.) from Falkirk ; containing, with
part of the village of Carronshore, 1000 inhabitants. The
peculiar features of this place appear to be described with
tolerable accuracy in the Celtic term by which it is de-
nominated, and which signifies " the small arable fen" or
"marsh;" the parish, originally marshy, having been sub-
jected, throughout its whole extent, which is very small,
to the operations of the plough. It is bounded on the east
by the Frith of Forth, and on the south by the river Car-
ron, forming a part of the tract called the Carse of Fal-
kirk, and is about one and a half mile in length, and of
nearly the,. same breadth, comprising 1240 Scotch acres,
the whole under tillage. The surface is entirely level ;
and the soil, under which, at various depths, are found
layers of marine shells, is a very rich alluvial loam,
highly cultivated, according to the most improved
methods of husbandry, and produces all kinds of crops,
but wheat and beans in the largest proportions, with
hay of a superior quality, which is sent for sale to the
Edinburgh market. The parish contains numerous
orchards, some of which are supposed to have been
planted by the monks of Cambuskenneth ; they yield
various kinds of fruit, but especially very fine pears, of
which the trees bearing an indigenous species called the
BOTH
BOTH
"golden nap," are particularly celebrated for their
luxuriance, beauty, and fruit, and sometimes produce
each, yearly, fruit to the amount in value of £10. The
whole of the lands, with very few exceptions, have been
improved by tile-draining, the benefit of which has been
so extensive as to pay the farmer in two years for the
outlay ; great attention is given to the rearing of
horses of a superior kind, for the uses of husbandry.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £4299.
Coal, of excellent quality, is abundant, and is wrought
by the Carron Company, who pay £1000 per annum to
the proprietors for this privilege. The parish is in the
presbytery of Stirling and synod of Perth and Stirling,
and in the patronage of Mr. Lewis ; the minister's sti-
pend is £201. 12. 10., with a manse, built in 1816 at a
cost of £1600, and a glebe valued at £12 per annum.
The church was built in 1789, and is a plain comfortable
edifice, suited to the accommodation of the parishioners.
The parochial school affords instruction in English
grammar, arithmetic, writing, geography, mathematics,
Latin, and Greek ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4.,
with £25 fees.
BOTHWELL, a parish, in the Middle ward of the
count j' of Lanark ; including the villages of Bellshill,
Chapelhall, Holytown, Newarthill, and Uddingston ;
and containing 11,175 inhabitants, of whom 570 are in
the village of Bothwell, 8 miles (S. E.) from Glasgow.
The name is supposed, by some, to be derived from
Both, an eminence, and wall, a castle, terms applied to
the parish from the elevated situation of Bothwell Castle
above the river Clyde ; others derive it from two Celtic
words, both, signifying a dwelling, and ael, or hyl, a
river, as descriptive of the castle in its contiguity to the
river. This extensive barony, in the reign of Alexander
I., was held by Walter Olifard, justiciary of Lothian,
who died in 1242 ; it afterwards came into the posses-
sion of the family of Moray, consisting, at that date, of
a tower and fortalice, with their appurtenances, and of
lands in various districts, constituting a lordship. In
the time of Edward I. of England, it became a place of
great importance, and it appears that that monarch
resided in the castle from the 17th to the 20th Sep-
tember, 1301 ; in this reign, also, it was the residence
of Aylmer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, who fled
hither from Loudon Hill, where he had been defeated by
Wallace, in 1307, and who, in 1309, was made governor
of the castles of Selkirk and Bothwell. At the time of
the battle of Bannockburn, Sir Walter Fitzgilbert,
ancestor of the Hamilton family, was governor ; and
after the death of Bruce, when Edward III. invaded
Scotland, in 1336, the king was at the castle from the
18th November till the 13th December, in the course of
which time fifteen writs were issued thence, in his name.
It came, at length, to the Earl of Bothwell, from whom
it descended to Archibald the Grim, Earl of Douglas ;
and, after passing through many other hands, it re-
verted to the ancient family of Douglas in 1715. The
collegiate church of Bothwell was founded on the 10th
October, 1398, in the reign of Robert II., by the first
earl of Douglas, for a provost and eight prebendaries,
and was richly endowed. Most of the superiorities,
with part of the property, and all the tithes, now
belong to the Duke of Hamilton. Bothwell-Bridge, in
the southern part of the parish, is celebrated in history
for] the battle fought there, in 1679, between the Cove-
147
nanters and the Duke of Monmouth ; and at a little
distance, is Bothwell-Haugh, formerly the property of
James Hamilton, who shot the regent Murray, for con-
fiscating a part of his estate, and the barbarous treat-
ment of his wife, on account of his having espoused the
cause of Mary, Queen of Scots.
The parish is, in extreme length, about S5 miles, and
varies in breadth from 2 to 4 miles, containing 13,600
acres ; it is bounded on the north and west by the
North Calder, and on the south, by the South Calder
and the river Clyde. It is comprehended by the elevated
ground running along the north-eastern bank of the
Clyde from Lanark to near Glasgow, which range, how-
ever, recedes from the river in traversing this district,
and leaves an intermediate plain, till it again inclines to
the stream in the neighbourhood of Bothwell-Bridge.
Near this it forms a piece of table-land of about one
mile in extent, running to the westward, at the head of
which are situated the church and village, about 120
feet above the level of the sea, and commanding a beau-
tiful view, to the east, of the vale of Clyde. From the
eastern boundary of the parish, the land falls rapidly to
a distance of nearly four miles, after which a fiat suc-
ceeds, of about equal length, declining southward towards
the Calder and Clyde, and the western extremity of
this tract sinks gradually into the extensive plain on
which Glasgow is situated. The Clyde, the chief river,
enters the parish at Bothwell-Haugh, and forms a ma-
jestic stream, the banks of which are famed for their
diversified and picturesque scenery; it is 120 yards
broad at Blantyre- Works, but at Bothwell-Bridge con-
tracts itself to a span of Jl yards. The North and
South Calder, after running separately for about 15
miles, form each a confluence with the Clyde ; they
flow between banks of sandstone rock, beautifully abrupt
in many parts, and affording well-wooded and romantic
scenery. Of these rivers, the Clyde, once so celebrated
for the abundance of its salmon, has now greatly fallen
off in this respect, very few fish comparatively visiting it,
owing to many causes, one of the most considerable of
which is said to be the impediment presented to their
progress by the dam thrown over the river between
Blantyre Mill and Bothwell.
The prevailing sou. is clay, resting upon a tilly sub-
soil, and is frequently, and in various proportions,
mixed with loam and sand ; in some places it consists
of fine light mould, and in the vicinity of the rivers is
a fertile alluvial deposit. The whole land is productive,
with small exceptions of moss and moor ; two-fifths are
in pasture, and grain of all kinds, and of good quality, is
raised ; potatoes, turnips, peas, &c, are also cultivated
in considerable quantities, with some flax, though this
last is not grown so largely as formerly. Very great
attention is given to dairy-farming, there being no less
than 1000 cows kept, most of which are native varie-
ties of the Ayrshire breed ; the horses are in general like-
wise of a good stock. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £35,207. The predominating rock is the
red sandstone, which lies over the whole coal-bed in
this district, at a distance of twenty or thirty fathoms
above the coal ; it is bright in colour, and, though
sometimes soft and friable, generally well adapted to
buildings. There are several quarries of good freestone
near the Clyde, of a red colour ; and in the upper parts
of the parish, white freestone is found. Coal abounds
U2
BOTH
BOUR
in every direction, and four large seams, from which it
is chiefly procured, extend throughout the parish, in
which the Ell-coal, Pyotshaw, main, and splint coal suc-
ceed each other, the last being best suited for the smelt-
ing of iron ; the average amount of coal obtained, in
value, is estimated at £80,000 annually, and of iron-
stone and other minerals, £20,000.
The chief mansion is Bothwell Castle, a simple, yet
commodious residence, built of the same red sandstone
as the old castle, and consisting of an extensive front
and two wings ; the apartments are ornamented with
several excellent portraits. The grounds are elegantly
laid out, and the neighbouring scenery, comprising the
waters of the Clyde and its picturesque banks, is enno-
bled by the ancient and venerable ruin of the old
castle. The mansion of Woodhall, on the bank of the
North Calder, is a spacious building in the style of the
age of Louis XIV. ; valuable pictures adorn some of the
apartments, and the entrance-hall contains several
French cuirasses and helmets of brass, brought from
the field of Waterloo. The mansions of Cairnbroe and
St. Enoch's Hall, both on the North Calder ; Cleland,
Carfin, Jerviston, and Douglas Park, are all superior
residences, standing in the midst of interesting scenery ;
and Bothwell Park, a handsome commanding mansion,
has a fine view of the fertile haughs of Hamilton, and
of the vale of Clyde. The principal manufactures of the
parish are those of pig-iron and steel, the former of
which is produced at the Monkland Company's works at
Chapelhall, to a great extent ; about 100 tons of steel
are manufactured annually, 30 tons of which are made
into files, and upwards of 700 persons are employed at
the works. Other similar works are carried on in the
parish, of less importance. Post-offices are established
at Bothwell, Bellshill, and Holytown, and the Glasgow
and Edinburgh coaches, and the Hamilton, Lanark,
and Strathaven coaches, pass through the parish ; the
Glasgow and Carlisle mail traverses the same road, and
the Wishaw and Coltness railroad intersects the parish,
and affords great facilities.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the pres-
bytery of Hamilton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the
stipend of the minister is £2S2. 14. 8., with a good
manse, and a glebe valued at £36 per annum ; patron,
the Duke of Hamilton. The church, which is a supe-
rior building, in the pointed style of architecture, opened
in 1833, extends 72 feet by 45, and contains 1200 sit-
tings ; the cost of the building was £4200, and it has a
good bell, provided by the parish, at an expense of £150,
and a clock which cost £133, raised by voluntary sub-
scription. A. church has been erected at Holytown,
late a quoad sacra parish ; and there is a Relief meeting-
house at Bellshill ; also a meeting-house at Newarthill,
belonging to the United Secession. The members of the
Free Church have likewise a place of worship. Three
parochial schools are supported, situated respectively at
Bothwell, Holytown, and Newarthill, the master of the
first of which has a house, and a salary of £34. 4. 4.,
with £70 fees; the others have £8. 11. each: the
classics, mathematics, and all the usual branches of
education are taught. The chief relic of antiquity in
the parish is the magnificent ruin of the ancient castle,
situated near the modern castle, on the summit of a
verdant slope, in the midst of beautiful woods and plea-
sure-grounds. The old church, which was originally the
148
choir of the collegiate church (the most famous of the
five collegiate churches in Lanarkshire), is a very fine
specimen of ancient architecture ; it was built about
139S, and disused as a church in 1S28. Bothwell
bridge is of great antiquity, though the age is not pre-
cisely known ; it originally consisted of four arches,
eacli spanning 45 feet, and measuring 15 feet in breadth,
but it has been considerably enlarged, within these few
years, by which an additional width of road is obtained.
There is another bridge, supposed to be of Roman
construction, across the South Calder, consisting of one
arch of semicircular form, high and narrow, without
parapets ; it is supposed to have been on the line of
the great Roman Watling-strcet, which ran through
this part of the country, on the north-east bank of the
Clyde. Chalybeate springs are very numerous in the
district, and many of them are strongly sulphuretted.
The celebrated Joanna Baillie was born in the manse,
during the incumbency of her father, the Rev. James
Baillie.
BOTRIPHNIE, a parish, in the county of Banff,
5§ miles (S. W.) from Keith ; containing 714 inhabit-
ants. This parish is situated in the narrowest part of
the county, comprehending its whole breadth, bounded
by Aberdeenshire on the south, and on the north by
Moray, and measures about four and a half miles from
north to south, and three from east to west. It con-
sists principally of a beautiful vale, lying between two
ridges of hills, respectively on the north and south, and
comprises 93S6 acres, of which 4360 are in tillage, 3540
waste and pasture, 430 of these being considered capable
of profitable cultivation, and 1486 acres are under na-
tural wood and plantations. The strath is watered by
the small river Isla, which, taking its rise at a loch in
the western portion, runs between banks beautifully
ornamented with alder and birch trees. The soil is a
rich black loam in some places, and in others, a strong
clay, incumbent on a bed of limestone, replete with
numerous springs of fine water. A large extent of
land, consisting of alluvial soil, has been added, in later
times, to the cultivated ground, by the straightening
of the course of the river, and now produces, in good
seasons, heavy crops of grain ; extensive tracts, also, of
moor or rough pasture have been brought under tillage,
chiefly by the use of the lime so plentiful in the locality.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £2620. The
only mansion is Botriphnie House, a shooting-seat. A
public road from the upper districts passes through to
Keith and Banff, and has two branches near the centre
of the parish, one leading to Huntly, and the other to
Fochabers and Elgin. A fair, called, from a tutelary
saint, Fumach fair, is held on the 15th of February, for
general commodities and for horses, few, however, of the
latter being brought for sale. The parish is in the pres-
bytery of Strathbogie and synod of Moray, and in the
patronage of the Earl of Fife ; the minister's stipend
is £17S. 15. 5., with a manse, and a glebe of six acres,
valued at £10 per annum. The church was built in
IS20, and has lately been repaired and renovated.
The parochial school affords instruction in the usual
branches ; the master has a salary of £30, with a house,
£7 fees, and a part of the Dick bequest.
BOURT1E, a parish, in the district of Garioch,
county of Aberdeen, 1^ mile (S. w.) from Old Meldrum ;
containing 469 inhabitants. This parish in figure re-
BOWD
BOWD
sembles an irregular triangle. It measures five miles in
length, from east to west, and about two in average
breadth, and comprises 5000 acres, of which nearly
3600 are under cultivation, 360 in plantations, consisting
chiefly of Scotch fir and larch, 1000 uncultivated and
waste, and a few acres covered with moss, supplying
peat, principally used as fuel. The surface is dis-
tinguished by two bold elevations, about 600 feet in
height, rising nearly in the middle of the parish, a mile
from each other, the one on the north being called the
Hill of Barra, and the other the Hil) of Lawhill-side ;
they run towards the east, to the extremity of the dis-
trict, and, uniting there, terminate in the Hill of Kin-
goody. The soil, in some parts, is a strong clay, but
more frequently a light loam, and the usual crops are,
oats, turnips, potatoes, and various grasses ; the rota-
tion of crops practised here is, as in most other parts
of the county, what is called the seven-shift, which
is considered the most suitable to the nature of the
land. Between 300 and 400 acres of waste have been
brought under cultivation within the last few years, and
nearly two-thirds of the remaining portion are con-
sidered capable of the same improvement ; the rocks
are of the trap formation, and some suppose that the
summit of the Hill of Barra is the crater of an ancient
volcano. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£3150. There are two gentlemen's seats, Bourtie
House and Barra, of which the latter is a venerable
castle, forming three sides of a quadrangle, with turrets
at two of the angles. The road from Aberdeen to Banff
passes through a corner of the district. The parish is
in the presbytery of Garioch and synod of Aberdeen,
and in the patronage of the Crown ; the minister's
stipend is £'230, with a manse, and a glebe, valued
at £10 per annum. The church, situated in about the
centre of the parish, is a plain structure, containing 300
sittings, built in 1807. The parochial school affords
instruction in the ordinary branches of education ; the
master has a salary of £30, with a house, and £S fees.
Several cairns and Druidical circles are to be seen ; but
the chief relic of antiquity is a fortification on the Hill of
Barra, called " Cummings' Camp," from having been
either constructed or used by the Cummings, who were
proprietors of the greater part of Buchan, at the time of
the celebrated engagement which took place near In-
verury, when they were routed by King Robert Bruce.
BOWDEN, a parish, situated in the district of
Melrose, county of Roxburgh, 3 miles (S. by E.) from
Melrose; containing, with the village of Midlem, S57
inhabitants, of whom 253 are in the village of Bowden.
This parish, which, in ancient records, is called Bothen-
den, Botheldene, and Boulden, was, early in the I2th
century, granted to the abbey of Selkirk, by a charter
of David I., in which it is designated by the first of
these names ; and in subsequent charters, confirming
that grant, by Malcolm IV., in 1159, and by Walter,
Bishop of Glasgow, in 1232, it is mentioned by the latter
appellations, probably corruptions of the former. The
monks had a grange at Holydean, in this parish, which,
in the 16th century, was given by royal charter to Sir
Walter Ker, of Cessford, ancestor of the dukes of Rox-
burghe, as a reward for his services during the border
warfare. A strong fortress was erected by the pro-
prietor, on the lands of Holydean, which was occasion-
ally the residence of the family ; but, at present, very
149
little is remaining, the greater portion having been re-
moved, during the minority of John, the third duke, by
his grace's agent, to furnish materials for the erection of
a large farm-bouse and offices. The court-yard, com-
prising an area of nearly an acre, was inclosed with
walls of stone, four feet in thickness, and sixteen feet
high, pierced at intervals for the discharge of arrows and
musketry, and having an arched gateway defended with
a strong portcullis. Within the inclosure, were two
strong towers, the one three, and the other five, stories
high, containing many spacious apartments, and every
requisite for a baronial residence. Part of the wall on
the south side is remaining, but greatly dilapidated; and
near it, is the ancient well of the castle, which affords a
supply of excellent water to the family living at the
farm-house. About 500 acres of the farm of Holydean
are inclosed with a wall of loose stones, which has stood
for more than three centuries, and is still in good condi-
tion ; this inclosure is, in an old lease, called the " Great
Deer Park of Haliedean."
The parish is situated on the river Ale, by which it is
bounded on the south, and is about five miles in length,
and four in breadth, comprising above 6000 acres, of
which 3460 are arable, 2531 meadow and pasture, 260
woodland and plantations, and 30 garden and orchards.
The surface is broken by a series of parallel ridges, ex-
tending from east to west, and declining in height to-
wards the south, between which are fertile valleys of
various breadth, watered by rivulets flowing eastward
into the Tweed ; and towards the south-west, are some
smaller streams, which fall into the river Ale. One of
the Eildon hills, and part of another, rising in three
conical summits, to the height of 900 feet above the
general level, and about 1360 above that of the sea, are
within the limits of the parish, and form conspicuous
objects in the landscape. The scenery is pleasingly en-
riched with plantations of modern growth, and the
several demesnes of the chief proprietors contain many
trees of lofty and venerable appearance ; in the ancient
park of the Duke of Roxburghe, is some fine timber ; at
Holydean, is a wood of about forty acres, chiefly birch-
trees, of great age, and around the churchyard are some
of the largest, sycamores and ash-trees in this part of
the country. The soil, towards the north and west, is a
stiff clay of considerable depth ; in the southern part,
especially on the ridges, lighter and more friable ; and
in the valleys, a rich deep loam. The substratum is
generally whinstone ; and in some parts are consider-
able tracts of moss, below which shell marl is found,
resting on a layer of fine blue clay. The system of agri-
culture is highly improved, and the crops are favourable ;
lime, marl, guano, and bone-dust are the manures.
Considerable improvements have been made in draining
and inclosing the lands, and in the breed of sheep and
cattle, of which great numbers are fed ; the sheep are
mostly of the Leicester and the Cheviot kind, and occa-
sionally a cross between them, which is on the increase ;
the cattle are chiefly of the short-horned breed. Numbers
of small highland cattle are pastured here during the
winter, and fattened in the summer, and sold to the
butchers. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£4963. Among ths seats is Kippilaw, a handsome
mansion, pleasantly situated in a demesne embellished
with timber of luxuriant growth ; Cavers and Linthill
are also substantial residences. The village contains
B O WE
BOWM
little remarkable, except an ancient cross in the centre,
of which the date is unknown : the remains of one
or two small towers or peels, of which there were several
within the last twenty-five years, containing, in the
lower part, a place for cattle, and in the upper, apart-
ments for the family, to which access was afforded by a
stone staircase on the outside, were lately removed.
The parish is in the presbytery of Selkirk and synod
of Merse and Teviotdale, and patronage of the Duke of
Roxburghe ; the minister's stipend is £211. 11. 7-, with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum. The
church, situated near the eastern extremity of the parish,
is an ancient structure, of which the original foundation
is unknown; it affords accommodation for nearly 400
persons, and is in a state of good repair ; the oldest
date that appears on any part of the building, is 1666.
Under the east end is the funereal vault of the Ker
family, containing twenty-one coffins, ranged along the
sides of the building, among which are those of five
dukes of Roxburghe, predecessors of the present duke.
There are places of worship for members of the Free
Church and the Associate Synod of Original Seceders.
Two parochial schools were until lately supported, one
in the village of Bowden, and the other in that of
Midlem, but the latter has been discontinued ; the mas-
ter of the former has a salary of £30 per annum, with
a house and garden rent-free, and the fees produce £12.
The remains of a military road, with stations, or camps,
of a circular form, at intervals of more than two miles,
uniformly occupying eminences in view of each other,
may be traced in various places, extending across the
centre of the parish, in a direction from south-east to
north-west. Where not obliterated by the plough, the
road may be traced, in the form of a ditch about twenty
feet in width, and, in some places, in the form of two
parallel ditches, with an interval between them of fifty
feet in width. Warlike instruments of different kinds
have been discovered by the plough, in the immediate
neighbourhood of the road, and also in the adjacent
mosses. On the summit of a precipice at Holydean,
nearly 150 yards from the principal farm-house, and
overhanging a deep dell called Ringans-Dean, was an
ancient chapel and burying-place ; the foundations of the
building may yet be traced, and grave-stones, handles of
coffins, and human bones have been frequently found
near the site. It has been conjectured that from this
ecclesiastical establishment the place derived the name
of Holydean. Trees of various kinds, and of very large
dimensions, have been discovered in the mosses, while
digging for peat and marl ; they are chiefly oak, ash, and
fir, and have been found generally at a considerable depth
below the surface.
BOWER, a parish, in the county of Caithness,
7 miles (W.) from Keiss ; containing 16S9 inhabitants.
This place is said to derive its name from a Danish
word signifying " a valley," and the application of the
term to this locality seems to be by no means inappro-
priate. The parish is about twelve miles long, and four
broad, and the surface is in general low and flat, being
diversified only by a ridge of green hills, of small eleva-
tion, running from north to south, through the whole :
on an eminence in this ridge, near Bower-Tower, is a
large perpendicular stone called Stone Lude or Lutt,
supposed to mark the sepulchre of some Danish or
Norwegian chief who fell here. The soil of the arable
150
land consists mostly of strong clay and loam, and the
subsoil is clay ; in some hollows and valleys, a fine rich
marl is obtained in great abundance, and extensively
and very beneficially used as manure. The parish is
altogether agricultural and pastoral, and the recent pre-
valence of sheep-farming has diminished the import-
ance of the former branch, and given to the latter a de-
cided predominance ; grain and live stock are frequently
sent to the south, being shipped at Wick, by steamers
or trading vessels. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £4300. The rocks are of the primitive class ;
a vein of copper was discovered some time ago, but was
never worked. Barrack House and Stempster House,
both modern edifices, Stanstill, and Tister, are the prin-
cipal residences. The population is scattered among
the rural districts ; many, in consequence of the ne-
cessary expulsion of agricultural labourers, by the ex-
tensive introduction of sheep-farming, have been driven
to the moors, or to seek a livelihood in foreign lands.
Four annual fairs are held here, namely, Campster fair,
on the Tuesday after St. Patrick's-day, Lyth fair, on the
second Tuesday of October, St. Maud's, on the second
Tuesday in November (all O. S.), and Stanstill, held in
November ; also a cattle-market every Wednesday, from
June till October, inclusive. The post-road, which is
in good condition, passes through the south-west part
of the parish, for several miles, and there are also some
good county roads, one of which joins the post-road
above Halkirk, on the hill of Sordal. The ecclesiastical
affairs are subject to the presbytery of Caithness and
synod of Caithness and Sutherland ; patron, Sir James
Colquhoun, Bart. ; the stipend of the minister is
£191. 4. 6., with a manse and glebe. The church is
ancient, and the number of its sittings is computed at
441 : a parochial school is supported, at which the usual
branches are taught, and the master has a salary of
£35. 16., with £14 fees. Here are several Druidical
circles or temples, as well as numerous tumuli ; the
most striking is the cairn of Heather Cow, which is
surrounded by six or seven circles of large stones,
and situated on an eminence commanding an extensive
prospect.
BOWLING-BAY, a village, in the parish of Old
Kilpatrick, county of Dumbarton, 5 miles (E. by S.)
from Dumbarton ; containing 1S2 inhabitants. It is
situated on the north bank of the Firth of Clyde, and
on the road which passes, close by the river, from
Glasgow to Dumbarton ; the locality is very beautiful,
and immediately opposite, on the south side of the
Clyde, is Erskine House, the fine seat of Lord Blantyre.
At this place, the Forth and Clyde canal terminates.
BOWMORE, a village and small sea-port, in the
parish of Kilarrow, district of Islay, county of Argyll,
IO3 miles (S. S. W.) from Port-Askaig. This place is
situated on the eastern shore of Loch Indal. The vil-
lage was first commenced in 1768, and consists of several
well-formed and regular streets, intersecting each other
at right angles, of which the principal, a spacious street,
leads from the quay, by a gradual ascent, to the church ;
and another, crossing this at right angles, terminates at
the parochial school. The houses are generally neatly
built, though in some of the smaller streets are many of
inferior appearance. Since its commencement, the vil-
lage has rapidly increased in extent and population, and
it is now the seat of the presbytery of Islay and Jura ;
B R A C
B R E C
a neat building, containing a spacious assembly-room,
has been erected, to which is attached a room for the
temporary confinement of petty offenders. The environs
are pleasant, and derive much interest from the grounds
of Islay House. A very extensive distillery of whisky
is carried on here ; and there are several vessels belong-
ing to the port, employed in the coasting trade, which
is considerable. The harbour is commodious, and ac-
cessible to the quay, for vessels drawing eight or nine
feet water, at ordinary tides ; the quay, which was
constructed by Mr. Campbell, is substantial, and well
adapted to the purpose. A post-office, with a daily de-
livery, has been established ; and facility of communi-
cation is afforded by a good road to Port-Askaig, on
the Sound of Jura.
BO WRIEFAULD, a village, in the parish of Dun-
nichen, county of Forfar, 2 miles (W. by S.) from
Letham ; containing 109 inhabitants.
BOYNDIE, county Banff. — See Boindie.
BRACADALE, a parish, in the Isle of Skye, county
of Inverness, 12 miles (S. E.) from Dunvegan ; con-
taining 1S24 inhabitants. This parish is washed on the
south and south-west by the sea; it is about twenty
miles in length, and eight in extreme breadth, and com-
prises 73,189 acres, of which 4S78 are arable, and the
remainder pasture and hill-grazing. The coast extends
for about sixty miles, and is very irregular, being in-
dented by numerous arms of the sea, and, though occa-
sionally flat, is in most parts bold and rocky, and the
beach very rough and stony. At the southern extremity,
is the headland of Rhuandunan, and towards the west,
Tallisker-head, at the southern entrance of Loch Braca-
dale, which, and Loch Eynort, are the principal har-
bours, both affording convenient and secure anchorage
to vessels of any burthen. The chief islands are, Soay,
on the south-east; and Vuiay and Taarner, situated at
the mouth of Loch Bracadale, opposite Tallisker-head,
to the north. The surface in the interior is generally
hilly, and the most conspicuous eminences are part of
the range of Coullin, highly picturesque in appearance,
and stretching along the boundary between this district
and Strath. A few detached fields are seen adjacent to
the coast, but the low grounds and valleys are chiefly in
that district called Minginish, where the vale of Tallis-
ker is particularly celebrated for its beautiful scenery.
The parish is for the most part pastoral, and about
4500 sheep, and 450 black-cattle, are annually exported;
the soil near the bays is sandy or clayey, but in some
of the lower grounds remarkably fertile : the small por-
tions xinder tillage are always let in connexion with
pasture. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£3921. The inhabitants generally are exceedingly poor,
and upon the lowest scale with respect to clothing and
food ; the road from Inverness to Dunvegan passes
through the district, and there is a post-office at Struan.
At the village of Carbost is a celebrated distillery.
A fair for the sale of black-cattle and sheep is held at
Sligechan, on the third Tuesday in September. The
parish is in the presbytery of Skye and synod of Glenelg,
and in the patronage of the family of Macleod, of Mac-
leod ; the minister's stipend is £15S. 6. 8., of which
half is received from the exchequer, with a manse, and
a glebe of 30 acres, valued at £15 per annum. The
church, built in 1831, is conveniently situated near the
public road, and contains between 500 and 600 sittings.
151
There is a place of worship for members of the Free
Church ; also an episcopal chapel. A missionary is
supported by the Royal bounty, and the parochial school
affords instruction in Gaelic, English, writing, and arith-
metic ; the master has a salary of £28.
BRACO, a village, in that part of the parish of
Mtjthill which constituted the district of Ardoch,
county of Perth ; containing 3/0 inhabitants. This
village, which is rapidly increasing in extent, owes its
origin to the erection of a chapel of ease for this district
of the parish ; the houses are neatly built, and it has
already attained sufficient importance to be the resort
of the neighbouring farmers, for the purchase of cattle,
for which two large fairs are held annually. A library
is supported by subscription. — See Ardoch.
BRAEHEAD, a village, in the parish of Carnwath,
Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 3| miles (N.)
from Carnwath; containing 312 inhabitants. This vil-
lage, which is pleasantly situated on the road to Wilson-
town, is inhabited chiefly by persons engaged in agri-
cultural pursuits, and partly by others employed in
weaving at their own dwellings, for the Glasgow and
Paisley manufacturers. There is a place of worship for
members of the New Light Burghers.
BRAEMAR, Aberdeen. — See Crathie.
BRAGRUM, a hamlet, in the parish of Methven,
county of Perth ; containing 44 inhabitants.
BRAIDWOOD, a village, in the parish of Carluke,
Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 4 miles (N. W.)
from Lanark ; containing 234 inhabitants. It is on the
great Roman Watling-street, and was formerly a pos-
session of the earls and marquesses of Douglas ; in the
vicinity, lime and iron stoue are found, and, on the
Braidwood estate, a vein of fine encrinal marble.
BRECHIN, a burgh,
market-town, and parish, in
the county of Forfar, 8
miles (W. by N.) from Mon-
trose, and 66 (N. N. E.) from
Edinburgh ; containing, with
the village of Trinity-Muir,
7560 inhabitants, of whom
29S6 are in the late East
quoad sacra parish, and 120 in
the village of Little Brechin.
This place derives its name,
Burgh Seal. of Gaelic originj from its
situation on an acclivity rising from the banks of the
river South Esk ; it is of very considerable antiquity,
and was formerly the seat of a diocese, the cathedral of
which is now the church of the parish. During the
wars between the Scots and the English, in the reign of
Edward I., Sir Thomas Maule, lord of Brechin Castle,
defended it, for some time, against the assaults of the
English whom that monarch had sent to reduce it, till,
being killed by a stone slung from an engine by the
besiegers, the garrison capitulated, and surrendered the
castle to the English. A battle took place in the
vicinity, in 1452, between the forces of the Earl of
Huntly, and those of the Earl of Crawford, in which
the latter were defeated, and which, from the proximity
of the spot whereon it was fought, has been invariably
called the battle of Brechin. In 1573, Sir Andrew
Gordon, an adherent of the unfortunate Mary, Queen
of Scots, and who was then besieging the Castle of
BREC
BREC
Glenbervie, hearing that a party of the king's friends
were assembled at this place, attacked them early in the
morning, and surprised and cut off the whole of the
force. The castle of Brechin, a place of great strength,
and, from its situation on the summit of an abrupt
precipice, regarded, before the use of artillery, as im-
pregnable, had been long the baronial seat of the family
of Maule, afterwards created earls of Panmure ; this
title was forfeited on the rebellion of 1715, but was
revived by William IV., at his coronation, who granted
the title of Baron of Panmure to their descendant. The
building is of various dates and styles of architecture,
and the demesne abounds with romantic and beautiful
scenery, commanding a fine view of the river.
The town is situated on the rising banks of the
South Esk river, over which there is a very interest-
ing bridge of stone, supposed to be the most ancient
structure of the kind in the kingdom ; it is neatly built,
consisting of several well-formed streets, and a spacious
market-place, nearly in the centre. A handsome build-
ing in the Elizabethan style, with a tower SO feet high,
has been recently erected at the entrance of the town,
by Lord Panmure, for the use of a literary and sci-
entific institution ; it contains a lecture-room and li-
brary, and many valuable paintings, presented by his
lordship. The streets are macadamized, and the ap-
proaches have been levelled, to render the place easier
of access. The trade arises principally from weaving,
and the several handicraft trades requisite for the supply
of the neighbourhood ; there are two mills for spinning
flax, in which about 300 persons are engaged, and from
1200 to 1500 of the inhabitants are employed in weaving
coarse linens. About sixty are employed in heckling,
and from seventy to eighty in bleaching ; two distilleries
for making whisky from malt, have been erected in the
vicinity, which are conducted on an extensive scale, and
are in full operation. There are two fishing stations on
the South Esk, within the parish, where salmon are
taken in considerable numbers. The post-office has a
daily delivery, and every facility of intercourse is afforded
by good roads ; a bridge has been built at Stannachy
ford, to continue a new road from Arbroath to Dundee.
The Forfar and Arbroath railway passes through the
southern extremity of the parish, and about six miles
from the town ; and it is in contemplation to lay down a
railroad to Montrose, which, if carried into effect, will
greatly contribute to the prosperity of the inhabitants
of the district. The market, which is abundantly
supplied with corn and agricultural produce, and
numerously attended by the farmers of a widely-ex-
tended district, is held weekly on Tuesday, and there
are weekly marts for horses and cattle, from the last
Tuesday in February till the last Tuesday in March.
Fairs are held at Trinity-Muir, about a mile from the
town, four times in the year, of which that on the
second Wednesday in June, for cattle, horses, and sheep,
continues for three days, and is one of the most con-
siderable in the county. From time immemorial the
town has been a royal burgh, and the government is
vested in a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, a trea-
surer, and a council of eight burgesses, assisted by a
town- clerk, and other officers. There are six incorpo-
rated trades, viz. the hammermen, glovers, bakers, shoe-
makers, weavers, and tailors, all of whom, except the
weavers, have the exclusive privilege of carrying on trade
152
within the burgh. The provost, bailies, and dean of
guild are magistrates, by virtue of their office, and their
jurisdiction extends over the whole of the royalty ; they
hold a bailie-court every Wednesday, for the determi-
nation of civil pleas to any amount, and also for the
trial of criminal cases, in which they are assisted by the
town-clerk, who acts as assessor. The burgh is asso-
ciated with those of Arbroath, Bervie, Forfar, and Mon-
trose, in returning a member to the imperial parlia-
ment ; the elective franchise, previously vested in the
corporation of the town, was extended, by the act of
the 2nd and 3rd of William IV., to resident £10 house-
holders within the parliamentai-y -boundary. The pro-
vost is the returning officer. The town-hall, situated
nearly in the centre of the town, was built in the year
1 7 S9 5 it is a neat structure, containing, on the first
story, a good hall, with smaller apartments for the
meetings of the council, and below them a court-room
and a prison.
The parish comprises about 15,840 acres, of which
9S40 are arable, 3260 woodland and plantations, and
2J40 rough pasture and waste ; the surface is generally
level, rising in some parts into gentle undulations, and
the only eminence that deserves the name of a hill, is
that of Burghill, to the south of the town. The pre-
vailing scenery is agreeably diversified, and enlivened
with numerous thriving plantations ; and from several
points of view, the Grampian hills form a conspicuous
feature in the distant landscape. The soil, though
various, is mostly fertile ; the chief crops are, oats,
barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips ; the lands are well
drained, and every recent improvement in husbandry
has been adopted, under the auspices of the Eastern
Forfarshire Farming Association, established here in
IS 14, under the patronage of Lord Panmure, and which
has its meetings in spring and autumn, when cattle-
shows are held on Trinity-Muir, and prizes are awarded
to the most successful competitors. The utmost atten-
tion is paid to live stock ; the sheep are of the black-
faced breed, but a very small number is kept ; the
cattle are of the Angus breed generally, with, of late,
an occasional intermixture of the short-horned or Tee-
water. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£21,563, including £7960 for the burgh. In the vici-
nity of the town, are three nurseries, comprising together
about 25 acres, well stocked with forest-trees, for sup-
plying the plantations of the district, and with fruit-
trees of various kinds, and ornamental shrubs and ever-
greens ; there are also several orchards. The substrata
are chiefly the old red sandstone, with limestone, and
also sandstone of a greyish colour, of good quality for
building, and susceptible of a high polish ; of this stone,
the tower and spire of the old cathedral were built.
The limestone is extensively quarried for manure, and
there are at present three lime-works in operation ; also
several quarries of freestone.
The parish is the seat of the presbytery of Brechin,
in the synod of Angus and Mearns ; the church, for-
merly cathedral, has two ministers, respectively of the
first and second charges. The stipend of the first charge
is £283. 3. 10., and the minister resides in a house
erected about fifty years since, in lieu of the episcopal
palace, by the exchequer, and to which is attached
about an acre of garden ground; the stipend of the
second charge is £274. 16., with a manse, and a glebe
B R E S
BRES
valued at £30 per annum. The church is the nave of
the ancient cathedral, and is situated nearly in the
centre of the parish ; it is in good repair, and adapted
for a congregation of 1500 persons. A church contain-
ing 864 sittings, was erected by an act of the General
Assembly, in 1836, for a district of the parish called
East-Church, and the minister derived his income, £150,
from seat-rents and collections. Since the recent se-
cession from the Church of Scotland, however, the
church has ceased to be used in connexion with the
Establishment j and no quoad sacra parish now exists.
Places of worship have been built at different times
for members of the Free Church and the United Seces-
sion, Antiburghers, and members of the Relief Church ;
and an Episcopal chapel, erected about twenty years
since, has been recently enlarged and beautified, and
is a handsome edifice, the western gable of which is
surmounted by a cross, and flanked at the angles with
minarets. There are parochial and burgh schools,
together with a grammar school ; the parochial teacher
has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with fees, and £10 paid by
the magistrates from the burgh funds, in lieu of a house
and garden. The rector of the grammar school is
appointed by the corporation, and is also preceptor
of the hospital of Maison Dieu, of which he enjoys
the revenue, amounting to £50 per annum. There
is a parochial library, containing about 600 volumes;
and circulating libraries are kept by the booksellers in
the town. The hospital, formerly attached to the cathe-
dral establishment, affords weekly a small allowance to
the poor ; there is also a society of ladies, for the
relief of the indigent, and a dispensary was established
some years since, with the proceeds of a bequest by
Mrs. Speid, of Ardovie. Some remains yet exist of the
ancient chapel called Maison Dieu ; and a round tower
nearly adjoining the cathedral, and supposed to be of
Pictish origin, is still entire, and an object of much
interest. It is a lofty slender column of very ancient
character, and in high easterly winds is observed to
vibrate in a slight degree. The remains of the cathedral
consist chiefly of the nave and tower ; the western en-
trance is of beautiful design, and the interior is lighted
by a spacious window above the doorway, and the roof
supported by a range of clustered columns and pointed
arches ; the choir was destroyed at the Reformation.
At the eastern extremity of the parish, is a cemetery,
which is still called St. Magdalen's chapel, the only
memorial, perhaps, of an edifice of that name. Dr.
John Gillies, historiographer for Scotland to His Ma-
jesty ; and his brother, the Honourable Adam Gillies,
one of the senators of the College of Justice, were
natives of the parish, as was also Maitlaud, the labo-
rious historian of London and Edinburgh.
BRESSAY, BURRA, and QUARFF, a parish, in the
county of Orkney and Shetland; containing 1*98
inhabitants, of whom 904 are in the island of Bressay,
and 870 in the late quoad sacra parish of Burra and
Quarff. These three ancient parishes, now united, com-
prehend six islands and a part of the tract called Main-
land ; the district of Bressay is to the east of the main-
land, and consists of the islands of Bressay and Ness,
separated from each other by Ness Sound, and from the
mainland by Bressay Sound. The island of Bressay,
which is nearly six miles long, and varies in breadth
from two to three miles, exhibits a highly-diversified
Vol. I.— 153
surface, especially in the western portion, where the
rugged features of the coast, the tracts of arable land
stretching from south to north, and sloping to the sea,
interspersed with cottages, with lofty hills rising in va-
rious directions, contribute to form a scene marked, to
a considerable extent, by beauty and grandeur. Among
the elevated ridges running in irregular directions
through the island, and the spaces between which are
covered with a mixture of pasture and peat-moss, is a
dorsal eminence, on the eastern side, called St. Andrew's,
or Ander hill, upwards of 400 feet in height. At the
southern extremity, is a lofty elevation called the Ward ;
also Beacon hill, rising 724 feet above the level of the
sea, and which, being covered with peat-moss and vari-
ous kinds of short grass and heath, becomes, on account
of its sable hue and majestic height, a striking object in
the scenery. The coast is everywhere rocky, abounding
with fissures, caverns, and headlands, the last chiefly in
the southern portion of the island ; and there are twelve
lochs, which, however, are of very ipconsiderable dimen-
sions, only two or three having the extent of half a mile
in length or breadth, but some of them are celebrated
for their fine trout.
The parish contains several sounds or channels,
formed by, and taking their names respectively from,
the islands to which they are adjacent ; the chief is
Bressay Sound, long known as a superior harbour, which
expands into a fine bay towards Quarff, on the south,
where its waters deepen, and afford excellent anchorage
for vessels in stress of weather. Many hundreds of
Dutch boats, in time past, resorted hither, to fish for
herrings; but the sound has derived its greatest cele-
brity from the Earl of Bothwell, who, being pursued in
his adversity by Kirkaldy of Grange, with great diffi-
culty escaped, by sailing out at the northern entrance,
in which direction his enemy, attempting to follow
him, was wrecked on a very dangerous rock, since
called the Unicorn, after the name of the ship. The
other channels are, Ness Sound, less than a quarter of a
mile broad, supposed to be about twenty feet deep, and
dangerous to pass with an easterly wind ; Cliff Sound,
not quite half a mile broad, with about nine or ten
fathoms of water, and of difficult navigation in stormy
weather ; and Stream and Burra Sounds, the latter of
which is the safest and most tranquil of the whole, and
peculiarly adapted to small vessels. The quantity of land
under tillage is small, compared with the waste, and
employed chiefly in the cultivation of oats, bear, and
potatoes, the two first being sown in alternate years,
and potatoes once in four or five years. The grounds
are manured with a compost of sea-weed, dung, and
mossy earth, and with the garbage of herrings, the last
being held in high repute for enriching the soil. Some
improvements in agriculture have been made within
these few years, chiefly in rebuilding, in a superior
manner, the farm-cottages ; but various obstacles, the
want of leases, the state of the roads, and especially the
poverty of the inhabitants, and their extensive occupa-
tion in fishing, repress all systematic attempts to esta-
blish agriculture on a good footing. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £1527. The rocks in Bressay
and Ness are the old red sandstone ; in Quarff, clay-
slate and mica-slate ; and in the isles of House, Burra,
and Halvera, of the primitive formation. At Bressay,
flag and slate quarries are in operation, the material of
BRID
B R I D
which is shipped to different parts of the country, and
sometimes sent to the south; and in Quarff and Burra,
several species of limestone of inferior quality are
found.
The lands appear once to have been better wooded
than at present, trunks of trees, of some bulk, being
found among the mosses. The only plantations recently
made are in the vicinity of the mansion-house, and
consist of willow and ash, the former the most flourish-
ing ; and near these, of older growth, are aspen, elm,
laburnum, poplar, and plane trees, which appear to be
in a thriving condition. A large proportion of the male
population is engaged in the fisheries, the principal of
which are those of ling, cod, and herrings ; though
various other kinds of fish, such as tusk, halibut,
skate, whiting, and flounders, are taken at different
times ; and sillocks, on which the inhabitants live to a
considerable extent, are taken throughout the whole
year. Oysters, also, are found at Burra, in abundance.
The ling-fishing employs about thirty boats, carrying
generally six men each ; the cod-fishery, beginning
about Whitsuntide, occupies numerous sloops of be-
tween fifteen and twenty tons' burthen, and at the ter-
mination of this fishing, that for herrings commences,
usually in the month of August, in which the same
boats are employed as those engaged in the ling-fishing,
with some of larger size. About thirty women and
children are employed in Bressay, during the season, in
curing herrings; and the manufacture of herring-nets has
recently excited much interest among the inhabitants :
nearly every female in Quarff above six years of age, is
occupied in knitting woollen-gloves, and those in Burra
in knitting stockings. The parish is in the presbytery of
Lerwick and synod of Shetland, and in the patronage of
the Earl of Zetland ; the minister's stipend is £158. 6. 8.,
with a manse, rebuilt in 1819, and a glebe valued at
£12 per annum. The church, which is conveniently
situated, was erected in 1815, and contains 370 sittings.
There are places of worship for Independents and Wes-
leyans ; and also a parochial school, the master of which
has a salary of £25. 13., and teaches writing, arithmetic,
and book-keeping. — See Burra, Ness, &c.
BRIDEKIRK, Dumfries. — See Brydekirk.
BRIDGE OF ALLAN.— See Allan, Bridge of.
And all places having a similar distinguishing prefix, will
he found under the proper name.
BRIDGEND, a village, in the parish of Kilarrow,
district of Islay, county of Argyll, 3 miles (N.) from
Bowmore. This village is situated at the north-eastern
extremity of Loch Indal ; and there is a good road to
Port-Askaig, distant, in a north-eastern direction, about
eight miles. A branch post-office has been established
under Bowmore, and a justice-of-peace court is held
here. The grounds of Islay House are almost in con-
tact with the village.
BRIDGEND, a hamlet in the parish of Lentra-
then, county of Forfar; containing 31 inhabitants.
It is situated a short distance from the parish church.
BRIDGEND, a village, in the parish of Ruthven,
county of Forfar ; containing 1/2 inhabitants.
BRIDGEND, a burgh of barony, in the parish of
Kinnoull, county of Perth; containing 173* inha-
bitants. This village, which forms a suburb to the city
of Perth, derives its name from the erection of a bridge
over the Tay, connecting the parishes of Perth and Kin-
154
noull, between which, all communication since the de-
struction of the old bridge in 1621, had been by a ferry,
till the completion of the present structure, in 177L
Prior to this date, the village consisted only of a few
cottages, inhabited by the boatmen employed on the
ferry ; but, from the greater facility of intercourse with
Perth, it has rapidly increased in extent and importance,
and at present contains nearly three-fifths of the popu-
lation of the parish. The streets are regularly formed,
and lighted with gas ; the houses are substantially built,
and along the banks of the river, and on the rising
ground, are numerous elegant, villas, surrounded with
scenery richly diversified. The village was erected into
a burgh of barony, in favour of the Earl of Kinnoull, by
charter, which also conferred the privileges of a weekly
market and several annual fairs, now fallen into dis-
use.
BRIDGEND, or Kendrochad, a hamlet, in the
parish of Kenmore, county of Perth ; containing 68
inhabitants. In the vicinity of the hamlet is a small
school.
BRIDGEND, a village, in the parish of Rosskeen,
county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 413 inha-
bitants. This place is also called the Bridgend of All-
ness, it being considered as part of the village of Allness,
of which the other part is in the parish of that name,
the river Allness dividing it in nearly equal portions ; a
market, chiefly for cattle, is held here monthly. At
Mossfield, in the vicinity, is a school, established in
1824.
BRIDGEND, SOUTH, a village, in the parish of
Muthill, county of Perth; containing 118 inhabit-
ants.
BRIDGEND, WEST, a village, in the parish of
Cardross, county of Dumbarton ; containing 799 in-
habitants. It is a suburb of the town of Dumbarton ;
and the Relief Congregation have a place of worship
in it.
BRIDGENESS, a village, in the parish of Carriden,
county of Linlithgow, 1 mile (E.) from Bo'ness, con-
taining 89 inhabitants. It is situated on the south
shore of the Frith of Forth, and its population is engaged
in the works in the vicinity. There is an excellent pier
here, which, some years since, was extended about 150
feet further into the sea, in order to improve the accom-
modation, by securing a greater depth of water for the
vessels by which the harbour is frequented, chiefly for
the export of coal and salt, and the import of manure
and limestone. As many as 300 coasters, varying from
twenty to one hundred tons' burthen, annually enter
from different ports in Scotland ; and about ten foreign
ships, of greater tonnage, yearly take in coal at this
place. Formerly, chemical-works were established here,
for the manufacture of vitriol and sulphuric-acid ; but
they have been for some time relinquished.
BRIDGETOWN, a village, in the parish of Red-
gorton, county of Perth ; containing 97 inhabitants.
BRIDGETON, lately a quoad sacra parish, con-
sisting of part of Barony parish, in the suburbs of
Glasgow, county of Lanark ; containing 3583 inha-
bitants. This place, which takes its name from its vici-
nity to the bridge over the Clyde leading to Rutherglen,
is partly indebted for its origin to Mr. John Walkin-
shaw, who, in 1705, purchased some lands to the east-
ward of the city, which he divided into building lots,
BROR
B II O U
for the formation of a village, then called Barrowfield.
In 1724, however, he had let only nineteen small por-
tions, and the land was subsequently purchased by the
corporation, in conjunction with the Trades' House, who,
in 1/31, conveyed it to Mr. John Orr, merchant, of
Glasgow, who, being more successful in disposing of
the ground, may be regarded as the founder of the pre-
sent town. This now flourishing village contains, ac-
cording to the last census, above 14,000 persons. It is
on the north side of the river, to the south-east of Cal-
ton, and, like that place, consists of several spacious and
well-formed streets ; a few houses are built of brick, and
roofed with tiles, for the manufacture of which, clay of
excellent quality is found in the immediate vicinity.
The population are chiefly employed in the cotton manu-
facture, and other works in the neighbourhood of the
city ; and there are numerous shops, for the supply of
the inhabitants with groceries and various kinds of
merchandise. The parish was formed by act of the Ge-
neral Assembly : the church is a neat structure, erected
by the Church Building Society of Glasgow, who are the
patrons, and contains 1024 sittings. It is now rented by
members of the Free Church, and in the village is also a
place of worship in connexion with the Relief Church.
BROADHAVEN, a village, in the parish of Wick,
county of Caithness, 1 mile (E.) from Wick ; contain-
ing 1*0 inhabitants. This village is situated at the head
of the haven from which it takes its name, and extends
along the northern shore of the bay of Wick ; it is in-
habited chiefly by persons engaged in the fishery. The
haven, which affords good shelter for vessels, is formed
by the head of Wick on the south, and the headland of
Papigo on the north, both of which extend considerably
into the Moray Frith.
BROADSEA, a village, in the parish of Fraser-
burgh, district of Deer, county of Aberdeen; con-
taining 326 inhabitants. This is a fishing village,
situated a short distance west of the town of Fraser-
burgh, in a small bay near Kinnaird Head.
BROCKLEHURST, OLD, a hamlet, in the parish of
Mouswald, county of Dumfries ; containing 39 inha-
bitants.
BRODICK, a village, in the Isle of Arran, parish
of Kilbride, county of Bute ; containing 163 inhabit-
ants. It is seated in a semicircular bay of the same name,
on the eastern coast of the island, defended at its en-
trance by the islet of Lamblash, or Holy Island ; and to
the southward is a light-house. The castle of Brodick is
on an eminence above the bay, and is a place of much
antiquity. One of the parochial schools is situated in
the village.
BROOMKNOLL, Lanarkshire. — See Airdrie.
BROOMLANDS, a village, in the parish of In-
chinnan, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew;
containing 79 inhabitants.
BRORA, a village, in the parish of Clyne, county
of Sutherland, 5 miles (N. E.) from Golspie; con-
taining 123 inhabitants. It is situated on the eastern
coast, at the mouth of the Brora water, a fine stream
which rises in the highlands, and pursues a course of
some miles, in a south-eastern direction, to this place,
where it falls into the sea. There is a tolerable harbour
for boats and small vessels, constructed by the Duke of
Sutherland, who has here considerable salt, coal, and
brick works, with which a railway is connected ; lint-
155
spinning has also been introduced into the village.
Brora lake, a few miles westward, is a beautiful and ex-
tensive piece of water, within which is an islet 140 feet
in length, and 70 in breadth, surrounded by a wall,
built so close to the water's edge that no boat can land,
except at one spot, where there are steps. On all sides
of the lake, are lofty hills, interspersed with pleasant
villages arid plantations. — See Clyne.
BROTHER ISLE, in the parish of Delting, county
of Shetland. It lies in Yell Sound, westward of the
island of Yell, and is inhabited by a very few persons.
BROUGH-HEAD, Elgin.— See Burgh-Head.
BROUGHTON, GLENHOLM, and KILBUCHO, a
parish, in the county of Peebles ; containing 929 in-
habitants, of whom 294 are in Glenholm, 361 in Kil-
bucho, and 274 in Broughton, including 85 in the village
of Broughton, 2 miles (N. N. W.) from Rachan Mill.
This parish is bounded on the east and south "-by the
river Tweed, and consists of the whole of the ancient
parishes of Broughton and Glenholm, and the greater
portion of that of Kilbucho. It is about nine miles and
a half in length, and three miles and a half in average
breadth, and comprises about 20,000 acres, of which
5000 are arable, 300 woodland and plantations, and the
remainder, of which not more than 1000 are capable of
cultivation, meadow land and hill pasture. The surface
is greatly diversified with hill and dale, and intersected
by mountainous ridges and fertile valleys. Rachan Hill,
in the district of Glenholm, is a detached eminence,
rising precipitously from the plain, on the side towards
the Tweed, and sloping by a gentle declivity towards
the Holms water ; it is covered with verdure to its very-
summit, and forms an interesting feature in the land-
scape. A chain of mountainous heights, extending for
nearly three miles, from north to south, intersects the
parish, separating Broughton from the parishes of Stobo
and Kirkurd. Another extending for nearly five miles,
in a direction from north-east to south-west, separates
Glenholm from Kilbucho and the parish of Culter ; a
third range stretches for nearly three miles parallel with
the Tweed ; and there are some others, of which one
passes through the district of Broughton. The highest
points of these ranges, which in general are precipitous,
are, Culterfell, Cardon, and Chapelgill, of which the
first has an elevation of 2430 feet above the sea, and
the others are very little inferior in height. Between
the ranges of hills, are several beautiful valleys, of which
the vale of Glenholm, extending for nearly four miles, is
strikingly picturesque, and is enlivened by the Holms
water; the Biggar water, which forms a boundary be-
tween the district of Broughton and those of Glenholm
and Kilbucho, receives various rivulets, among which
are the Holms water and the Broughton and Kilbucho
burns, and falls into the Tweed near Drummelzier. At
Rachan are two small lakes, studded with islands,
richly wooded, and of which one abounds with trout,
and the other with perch ; among the hills are several
springs, of which the water is intensely cold, and in the
old glebe land of Broughton, is a well possessing some
medicinal properties.
The soil, in the upper parts of the valleys, is rather
inclined to moss, and in the lower parts, is a deep rich
loam ; near the confluence of the Biggar with the
Broughton burn, the land is extremely fertile. The
chief crops are, wheat, barley, oats, peas, potatoes, and
X2
BROU
BRYD
turnips ; the system of husbandry is in an advanced
state ; the woods contain but little old timber, and most
of the plantations are of comparatively modern growth.
The rateable annual value of Broughton is £1579; of
Glenholm, £2625 ; and Kilbucho, £3230. The chief sub-
strata are, greywacke, limestone, and slate, which were
once quarried in Glenholm ; sand of a remarkably fine
quality is found in the district of Broughton, and there
are numerous pits of good gravel. Of the various houses
in the parish, Rachan, Mossfennan, and Broughton
Place are the principal ; the mansion of Broughton was
burnt by an accidental fire in 17/4, and rebuilt with the
old materials, on a smaller scale. The village was once
a considerable market for cattle ; but a fair only is now
held, on the 3rd of October, principally for hiring ser-
vants, and for the sale of various wares. The road from
Edinburgh to Dumfries passes through the parish.
Broughton is in the presbytery of Biggar and synod of
Lothian andTweeddale, and in the patronage of William
Renny, Esq.; the minister's stipend is £231. 1. 10.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £64. 14. 9. per
annum. The church, which is situated in the district of
Kilbucho, and nearly in the centre of the parish, is a
plain substantial edifice, erected in 1804, and adapted
for a congregation of 500 persons. A place of worship
has been erected in connexion with the Free Church.
There are three parochial schools, one in each of the
three districts ; the master of each has a salary of £32,
with a house and garden, and the fees for Broughton
amount to about £25, for Glenholm to £30, and for
Kilbucho to £31. Numerous remains may be traced of
circular camps, one of which, called Macbeth's Castle,
was surrounded with a double intrenchment. Some
stone coffins, also, containing human skeletons, have
been found near the confluence of the Biggar and the
Tweed, in a tumulus ; one of the bodies was of gigantic
size, and the arms were encircled with bracelets of
gold or yellow metal.
BROUGHTY-FERRY, a quoad sacra parish, partly
in the parish of Monifieth, and partly in the burgh of
Dundee, county of Forfar, 4 miles (E.) from Dundee ;
containing about 2200 inhabitants. This place, a small
part only of which belongs to the parish of Dundee, at
the close of the last century consisted merely of a few
fishermen's huts ; but the proprietor having begun to
feu it about the year 1790, a large addition was quickly
made to its population, and it has been since regularly
increasing. It is a neat, clean, and thriving fishing and
sea-bathing village, having an interesting and picturesque
appearance from the river; the gentle acclivity behind,
studded with numerous pleasing and elegant villas,
greatly heightening the general effect, and improving
the scenery. Many persons from Dundee and other
parts resort hither, in the season, for the benefit of
bathing, and find ample accommodation of every kind,
a considerable proportion of the inhabitants letting their
houses in lodgings for visiters. Thirteen boats are
regularly employed, and in summer many more, in the
white-fishing, upon which upwards of fifty families
depend for support ; and the fish taken, comprising
cod, haddock, soles, ling, whiting, plaice, flounders, and
many others, valued at £5000 per annum, constitute
the principal supply of the town of Dundee. About
400 cod are also prepared weekly, for exportation, at a
curing establishment here, and among several other
156
branches of manufacture and trade, are two rope- works,
a foundry, breweries, &c. Small vessels are occasionally
built, opposite to those parts where the depth of water
offers the necessary facility for launching them ; and the
circumstance of the railroad from Dundee to Arbroath
passing along the brink of the river, has originated the
idea of the importance of constructing a regular harbour
here, for the improvement of the general traffic of the
locality. A chapel of ease was built in 1826, containing
755 sittings, and the attached district was formed into
a quoad sacra parish, in 1834; the minister, who is
elected by the male communicants, receives about £140
per annum, derived from seat-rents and collections.
An excellent school has been formed in connexion with
the Establishment, of which the master has a salary of
£9- 18. 6., and fees ; and there are places of worship
belonging to the United Associate Synod and the Free
Church. Some remains exist of Broughty Castle, for-
merly a key to the navigation of the river, and much
connected with historical events.
BROWNFIELD, a quoad sacra parish ; consisting
of part of the parish of St. George, in the city of
Glasgow, county of Lanark ; and containing 2525
inhabitants. This place, which forms part of the suburb
of Anderston, is situated on the north bank of the Clyde,
and to the west of the Broomielaw Quay. The church
is a neat structure.
BROXBURN, a village, in the parish of Uphall,
county of Linlithgow, 2 miles (E.) from Uphall ; con-
taining 725 inhabitants. It is pleasantly situated on the
road from Glasgow to Edinburgh, and on the banks of
the Union canal, near a rivulet of the same name.
Through the exertions of the late Earl of Buchan, the
proprietor, it has very much increased in extent and
population, and a fair for cattle is held on the Friday
after the second Tuesday in September. The parochial
school is situated in the village, and there is a place of
worship in connexion with the Free Church.
BRUNTON, a village, in the parish of Creich,
district of Cupar, county of Fife ; containing 90 inha-
bitants. This village, which is pleasantly situated, is
inhabited chiefly by persons employed in agriculture,
and in hand-loom weaving for the linen manufacturers
of Cupar, under the inspection of a resident agent who
furnishes the materials. Previously to the introduction
of machinery, several of the females were employed in
spinning yarn ; but, at present, there is only one spin-
ning-wheel in operation.
BRYDEKIRK, lately a quoad sacra parish ; consist-
ing chiefly of part of the parish of Annan, and partly
of portions of the parishes of Cummertrees and Hod-
dam, in the county of Dumfries ; and containing 881
inhabitants, of whom about 400 are in the village of
Brydekirk, 3 miles (N. by W.) from Annan. The parish
forms a section of the vale of Annandale, about five or
six miles above the entrance of the beautiful river
Annan into the Solway Frith ; the scenery is remark-
ably rich, varied, and extensive, rising on either side of
the Annan, of which the banks are finely wooded, to a
considerable elevation, and embracing, from different
positions, the whole sweep of the surrounding country.
The greater portion of the soil is under cultivation, in
the usual routine of farming; and the remainder, to a
large extent, is covered with timber and plantations.
The village, which is connected with the burgh of
B U C H
BUCH
Annan by a handsome stone bridge of three arches, is
pleasantly situated on the western bank of the Annan,
and is neatly built, and intersected by the road from
Annan to Lockerbie ; the woollen manufacture was
established in 1S24, but the spacious building for the
purpose erected at the east end of the bridge, has been
recently converted into flour-mills. The ecclesiastical
affairs are under the presbytery of Annan and synod
of Dumfries : the church, erected in 1835, chiefly at
the expense of Mrs. Dirom, of Mount Annan, and her
friends, is a neat structure, standing at the western ex-
tremity of the village, and contains 370 sittings. The
minister's stipend, £55, is derived from the seat-rents,
augmented by donations from the proprietor of Mount
Annan, and a handsome house has been erected for his
residence ; the patronage is vested in the subscribers,
managers, and male communicants, being seat-holders.
There is a branch here of the parochial school, of which
the master has a salary of £10, in addition to the fees,
together amounting to about £40 ; and a parochial
library is under the superintendence of the minister.
BUCHANAN, a parish, in the county of Stirling,
1 mile (N. W.) from Drymen ; containing 754 inhabit-
ants. The name of this place was originally Inchcai-
leoch, which it received from an island in Loch Lomond,
its western boundary ; but a detached portion of the
parish of Luss having been annexed to it, in 1621, con-
taining the Buchanan estates and chapel, and the inha-
bitants finding this religious edifice more convenient
than the church, regularly attended at the former, in
consequence of which the parish assumed the name of
Buchanan. This name is of uncertain origin ; but the
family who used it in consequence of having, at a very
early period, obtained a grant of the lands so called,
sprang from Anselan, a native of Ireland, who is sup-
posed to have located himself here in the 11th century.
From this ancient race, always more celebrated for
literary than political or military fame, descended the
poet and historian George Buchanan, born in 1506;
Dr. Buchanan, author of works on the civil and natural
history of India ; and Dr. Claudius Buchanan, whose
writings, designed to awaken the British nation to a
sense of the necessity of extending education and reli-
gious instruction in India, are well known. The parish
is situated at the western extremity of the county, bor-
dering on Dumbartonshire, and is bounded on the south
by the river Endriek ; it is about twenty-four miles in
length, and five in breadth, and comprises 76,800 acres,
of which 1500 are arable, 69,750 natural pasture and
waste, 4250 woods and plantations, and the remainder
pleasure-grounds, &c. It contains a portion of lowland,
several islands in Loch Lomond, and a mountainous
ridge belonging to the highlands, stretching along the
eastern bank of the loch, and terminating the Grampian
hills on the west. This last is altogether a dreary barren
tract, consisting chiefly of sheep-pasturage, used for-
merly, as is supposed, for the purpose of hunting, and
now abounding in grouse, black game, and other fowl.
The largest island is Inchmurrin, which is two miles in
length, and about half as broad, and contains a consi-
derable number of deer, the property of the Duke of
Montrose; at the western limit, on a hill, are the ruins
of a castle built by the ancient earls of Lennox, and
near the same place is a lodge of modern date erected
by the same family.
157
The loch, the rich and magnificent scenery of which
is perhaps unrivalled, and which has been so often de-
scribed, is twenty-four miles in length, and about seven
at its greatest breadth, and is twenty-two feet above
the level of the sea ; it contains salmon, pike, eels, &c,
and a fish called powans, somewhat similar to a herring.
On the east, it is joined by the river Endriek, and the
Leven quits it on the south, and, running into the Clyde,
affords to boats the means of communication with
Glasgow, Greenock, and other places ; a steam-boat, in
the summer season, plies upon this beautiful expanse of
water chiefly for the accommodation of visiters. With-
in the parish is the lofty mountain of Ben Lomond, the
highest point of the Grampians, rising 3000 feet above
the sea, and commanding from its summit, which is of
conical form, a prospect, on the north, of an intermina-
ble range of mountains rising in succession, one above
another, and, on the south, of all the rich and varied
scenery in the tract from the Western Isles to the
Frith of Forth. It is one of the most striking and com-
manding objects in the country, and never fails to ex-
cite the admiration of every beholder. The soil, on the
bank of the Endriek, is for the most part alluvial ; and
the land, towards the mountains, comprises clay, gravel,
and moss, the last supplying abundance of peat. The
chief agricultural produce is barley and oats, the latter
of which are raised in by far the larger quantity ; pota-
toes and turnips are also grown, but the principal wealth
of the parish arises from its sheep and black-cattle,
grazed on the mountainous tracts ; the sheep are of the
black-faced breed, and of small size. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £6400. The rocks mostly
consist of various kinds of slate, but the quarries for-
merly wrought have been discontinued ; the natural
wood contains about 3000 acres ; the plantations, chiefly
oak and larch, were for the most part formed by the
late Duke of Montrose. Buchanan House, the summer
residence of the duke, is situated in the lower district,
and surrounded by extensive and well laid-out grounds ;
the body of the edifice is ancient, but the wings are
comparatively of modern date. At Balmaha is a manu-
factory, for the preparation of pyrol igneous acid, where
700 tons of small wood are annually used, and the acid
and dye-stuffs extracted from it are sold to the pro-
prietors of print-works in the vicinity of Glasgow. The
parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the Duke of
Montrose ; the minister's stipend is £156. 12. 8., of
which above a third is received from the exchequer,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 per annum.
The church, situated in the lower portion of the parish,
is a neat edifice, built about 1764, and contains 300
sittings : a small part of the ruins of the old church
remains, in the island of Inchcaileoch. The master
of the parochial school receives a salary of £30, with
fees ; and at Salochy, in the higher district, is a school,
the master of which has £15 per annum, paid by the
Edinburgh Society, and a house, with a piece of grass-
land, given by the duke. A library was formed some
years since.
BUCHANHAVEN, a village, in the parish of Peter-
head, district of Buchan, county of Aberdeen, 1 mile
(N.) from Peterhead. This village is situated on the
east coast, to the north of the haven of Peterhead, and
near the mouth of the river Ugie, which here flows into
BUCK
B UI T
the German Sea. The inhabitants are engaged in the
white and herring fisheries, both of which are success-
fully carried on, at no great distance off the coast, and
five boats are employed in each, for the accommoda-
tion of which a small harbour has been recently con-
structed.
BUCHANTY, a hamlet, in the parish of Fowlis
Wester, county of Perth ; containing 48 inhabit-
ants.
BUCHANY, a village, in the parish of Kilmadock,
county of Perth, 2 miles (W. N. W.) from Doune ;
containing 1 13 inhabitants. This village, which is on the
road from Doune to Callander, and near the picturesque
burn of A.nnat, is inhabited by persons engaged in agri-
cultural pursuits, or employed in the manufactories in
the vicinity. The mansion of Cambus Wallace is beau-
tifully situated on an eminence immediately above the
village, commanding an extensive view of the river
Teith, the town and castle of Doune, the pleasure-
grounds of Blair-Drummond, and Stirling Castle. On
the acclivity of the hill, are vestiges of a camp said to
have been the resort of Sir William Wallace, from which
circumstance the mansion derived its name ; the house
is surrounded with a well- wooded park, embracing great
variety of scenery.
BUCKHAVEN, an extensive village and fishing
station, in the parish of Wemyss, district of Kirkcaldy,
county of Fife, 4 miles (E.) from Kirkcaldy; contain-
ing 1526 inhabitants. This village, which is situated on
the Frith of Forth, consists of an irregular range of
houses, extending along the shore, and chiefly inhabited
by persons employed in the fisheries, of which it is the
principal station on this part of the coast of Fife. A
library has been founded, which is well supported by
subscription, and contains a good collection of volumes ;
and a savings' bank has been opened, with every pros-
pect of success. The fishery here has been long esta-
blished, and is gradually increasing ; it affords employ-
ment to nearly 200 persons, and about 150 boats of
various tonnage are regularly engaged during the season,
which generally commences about the end of June, when
they sail to the herring-stations of Fraserburgh, Wick,
and Helmsdale, returning to this place with their car-
goes about the beginning of September. The value of
the boats, which all belong to Buckhaven, is more
than £8000, and, including the nets, nearly £20,000, in
the aggregate. The harbour, which is safe and com-
modious, has been recently improved by the erection of
a new pier, at an expense of more than £4000, of which
the Board of Fisheries contributed £3000 ; and from
its very advantageous situation, which renders it easy of
access, it is well adapted to afford shelter to vessels of
considerable burthen, in stress of weather. A number
of the inhabitants are employed in the weaving of linen,
and an extensive factory has been established.
BUCKHOLMSIDE, a village, in the quoad sacra
parish of Ladhope, parish of Melrose, county of
Roxburgh ; containing 396 inhabitants. This place is
situated on the east side of the river Gala, and, though
within the parish of Melrose, is more properly an appen-
dage of Galashiels, with which town it is connected by
a stone bridge, and in the manufactures of which the
greater part of the population is employed. There is a
school in the village, for which a comfortable house has
been built by the heritors.
158
BUCKIE, a post-village and lately a quoad sacra
parish, in the parish of Rathven, county of Banff,
4 miles (E.) from Speymouth ; containing 2420 inhabit-
ants, of whom 2165 are in the village. This place is
at the mouth of the burn of Buckie, where it empties
itself into the Moray Frith ; the portion called the Sea-
town has been a fishing- station for nearly 200 years,
but the New-town portion, though also a fishing-station,
is of much more recent origin. There is a small har-
bour, used principally by fishermen ; but, in calm wea-
ther, coal and salt are occasionally landed. The white-
fishing is prosecuted by thirty-two boats and above 300
men ; seven houses have been established for curing
haddock; and in 1844 not less than 154 boats went
from this shore to the herring-fishery. A chapel accom-
modating 800 persons, was built in Easter Buckie, in
the year 1835, at a cost of £800, raised chiefly by sub-
scription ; a clergyman was ordained in 1837, who had
a stipend of £80 per annum, and a quoad sacra district
attached, comprehending the whole of the village, and
a small part of the parish southward. There are also
a Roman Catholic, and an episcopal chapel.
BUCKLERHEAD, a hamlet, in the parish of Mur-
roes, county of Forfar ; containing 48 inhabitants.
BUCKLYVIE, lately a quoad sacra parish ; consist-
ing of part of the parish of Drymen, county of Stir-
ling, and part of that of Kippen, in the counties of
Perth and Stirling ; and containing &63 inhabitants,
of whom 381 are in the village, 5 miles (W. S. W.) from
Kippen. It is situated on the road from Kippen to
Drymen, and is a burgh of barony, and entitled to hold
five fairs. The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish were
under the presbytery of Dunblane and synod of Perth
and Stirling: the church was built in 1835, by sub-
scription, at a cost of £600, and contains 352 sittings.
The stipend of the minister was £70, with a small allow-
ance for communion elements, derived from seat-rents
and collections. There are now open only places of
worship for members of the Free Church and a United
Secession congregation.
BUITTLE, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirkcud-
bright, 4 miles (S. E. by S.) from Castle-Douglas ; con-
taining, with the village and port of Palnackie, 1059
inhabitants. This place is of great antiquity, and there
are still some remains of its castle, supposed to have been
the principal seat of the ancient lords of Galloway. The
parish, of which the name is of very uncertain derivation,
is bounded on the east by the river Urr, and on the
south by the bay of Orchardton, in Solway Frith ; it is
about eight miles in length, and nearly three in average
breadth. The surface is diversified by hill and dale ;
in the middle and lower districts it is broken with
numerous rocky knolls, covered with furze and broom,
but in the upland districts the ground is more uni-
formly level, and better adapted for the plough. The
soil is various, and, on the arable lands, generally fer-
tile ; the chief crops are, oats, barley, wheat, potatoes,
and turnips. The system of agriculture is improved ;
the lands have been extensively drained, and large
tracts of moss have been brought into profitable cultiva-
tion. Great attention is paid to the rearing of cattle,
which are all of the Galloway breed, except on two or
three of the dairy-farms, where those of the Ayrshire
breed are preferred ; the cattle are usually sent to the
English markets when three years old. Considerable
BUNK
BUNK
numbers of sheep are reared, and fed upon turnips, and
mostly sent to Liverpool. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £7757.
The plantations, which have been greatly extended
within the last few years, now comprise about 960 acres.
They consist chiefly of oak, ash, larch, and Scotch
fir ; and on some of the lands planted at an earlier
date, are remarkably fine specimens of luxuriant growth ;
though many of the larches, after flourishing vigorously
for a few years, degenerate. The substratum is chiefly
granite, of very excellent quality, of which an exten-
sive quarry was opened some time since, at Craignair
Hill, and afforded employment to about 200 men ;
blocks weighing from seven to eigbt tons were, for some
years, shipped for Liverpool, but the quarry, at present,
is only wrought to a very limited extent, for home use.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence
of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright and synod of Gallo-
way ; the minister's stipend is £231. 6. 2., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum ; patron,
the Crown. The church, situated in the centre of the
parish, and erected in 1819, at an expense of £1000, is
a handsome structure in the early English stj'le, con-
taining 400 sittings, and, from the height of the walls,
well adapted for the erection of galleries, if additional
seat room should be required. In the churchyard, are
the walls of the ancient church, covered with ivy, and
forming a beautiful ruin. There are two parochial
schools, the masters of which, respectively, have salaries
of £28 and £23, with dwelling-houses, and the fees
average about £25. On a farm called Castlegower, on
the north-west border of the parish, are the remains of
a vitrified fort. There are two wells, formerly held in
high repute, and one of which was celebrated for the
cure of diseases peculiar to cattle ; but they are now
totally disregarded.
BULLERS-BUCHAN, a village, in the parish of
Cruden, district of Ellon, county of Aberdeen ;
containing 91 inhabitants. This is a small fishing vil-
lage, seated on the eastern coast, in the neighbourhood
of the stupendous rocks of the same name, where is a
circular basin about 150 feet deep, into which a boat
can sail, under a long vaulted arch. The view from
the sea is peculiarly striking ; two hideous cliffs present
themselves, and the vault in general, where most con-
fined, is thirty or forty feet in height, and the tide
rushes in tumultuously, and pi'oduces a boiling motion
round the sides of the pit. " No man," observes Dr.
Johnson, " can see the Buller with indifference, who has
either sense of danger or delight in rarity : if I had any
malice against a walking spirit, instead of laying him in
the Red Sea, I would condemn him to reside in the
Buller of Buchan." Above the surface of the water, are
several caverns of unknown extent.
BUNDALOCK.— See Dornie.
BUNKLE and PRESTON, a parish, in the county
of Berwick, 5 miles (N. N. E.) from Dunse ; contain-
ing 648 inhabitants. The name of this place is derived
from the Celtic word bon, signifying the foot or base,
and kill, a cell or chapel ; the word Preston, if of Saxon
origin, would signify Priest-town, or the town of the
priests, but some derive it from the Gaelic term Preas,
a thicket, and tun, a town or farm. The manor was
formerly possessed by Sir Alexander de Bunkle or
Bonkle, by whom it was transferred, in 1288, to Sir
159
John Stewart, on his marriage with the only child of Sir
Alexander. The property passed from Sir John Stewart,
by an heiress, to a different branch of the Stewarts, one
of whom was created Earl of Angus and Lord de Bon-
kle, and a grand-daughter of this earl, by her marriage
with William, Earl of Douglas, carried the property to
the family of Douglas. The ancient castle of Bunkle, of
which a ruin only now remains, was the residence of the
Stewarts. The parish contains 9300 acres ; the surface,
in the southern division, is tolerably level, sloping gently
towards the south-east ; the northern part is traversed
by the Lammermoor hills, the southern ridge of which,
called Bunkle Edge, is 700 feet above the sea, but not
more than half that altitude above its own base, showing
the site of the parish to be of considerable elevation.
The river Whiteadder runs along the southern and
western boundary of the parish, and, by its width, its
beautiful meanderings, and picturesque valleys, forms
an interesting object ; it abounds with salmon and trout.
and is frequently visited by the lovers of angling.
The soil, on the hills, is thin and poor, but, in the
lower parts, especially in the vicinity of the Whiteadder,
a rich fertile loam. The cultivated land comprehends
72S0 acres, one-half of which is usually in tillage, and
the other half in pasture, and of the former, about two-
thirds produce white crops, and the rest potatoes and
turnips. Little wheat is raised, and only a sufficient
quantity of hay for domestic use ; about 1600 acres are
moorland or heath, and about 420 planted, chiefly with
Scotch fir, of recent growth. The rotation system of
husbandry here adopted, consists of two or three years
of pasture, followed by three years of tillage, but the
farmers give their chief attention to the rearing of sheep,
there being, on some farms, no less than 1500 or 1600,
principally of the Leicester breed. Considerable improve-
ments have been made, within the last half century, and
nearly all the waste land capable of cultivation has been
reclaimed. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£SS33. There are three distinct classes of rocks, the
transition series, the old red sandstone, and the new red
sandstone : on the Hoardwell estate, close by the river,
is a copper-mine, the property of Lord Douglas, worked
about sixty years since by an English company, but
abandoned as unprofitable in a few years afterwards ; in
1825, it was again wrought, and again relinquished on
the same account. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject
to the presbytery of Dunse and synod of Merse and
Teviotdale; patron, Lord Douglas; the stipend of the
minister is about £250, with a manse, and a glebe of
the annual value of £46. When the ancient parishes of
Bunkle and Preston were united, about the year 1714,
public worship was performed in each alternately, till,
at length, both churches needing repair, that of Bunkle
was chosen, as most suitable for the joint population ;
it is a neat edifice, rebuilt in 1820, on the old site, and
capable of accommodating 400 persons. There is a
parochial school, where the usual branches of education
are taught, the master receiving the maximum salary,
with £26 fees, a house, and garden. Dr. James Hutton,
born at Edinburgh in 1726, and author of a Theory of
the Earth, resided in the parish, and greatly promoted
agricultural improvements in this part of the country ;
and Dr. John Browne, the celebrated medical theorist,
and author of the system called from him the Brunonian,
was born here in 1735.
BURN
BURN
BURGH-HEAD, a village and district, in the parish of
Duffus, county of Elgin, 9 miles (N. W.) from Elgin;
containing 829 inhabitants. This place is equidistant
from Elgin and Forres, and is seated on the north of a
fine bay of the same name, said to be one of the best
roadsteads on the east coast north of Leith. The har-
bour, which is commodious, was formed about 1811,
and as many as 400 vessels now enter it in the course
of the year ; twelve vessels, of the aggregate burthen of
738 tons, belong to the port, and there is, by these
traders, and by steam-ships, a regular communication
with London, Liverpool, Leith, and Aberdeen. The
greatest length of the district is five miles, and its
greatest breadth, three ; the village is very thriving,
and has several good houses, an excellent inn, a public
reading-room, and convenient baths for the accommoda-
tion of summer visiters, who frequent it in great num-
bers. A chapel of ease was built in 1832, and in 1834
was slightly altered, to increase the number of sittings,
which are now 414 ; the minister's stipend is £70, paid
partly by seat-rents and partly by two societies, with a
house rent-free. The members of the Free Church, and
the United Secession, have each a place of worship, and
a school is supported by the General Assembly. On
the promontory of Burgh-Head, are considerable re-
mains of a regular Roman or Danish insulated fortifica-
tion; the works were divided into two parts, a higher
and a lower, and presented four strong ramparts, built
with oaken logs, directed towards the small isthmus
upon which the village now stands. A deep well, of
extreme regularity in its construction, and much too
carefully formed to allow of its being supposed to be
Danish, was lately discovered on the spot, and adds
another link to the chain of evidence adduced by General
Roy, in his learned work on Roman antiquities, to show
that Burgh-Head was a Roman station of very consi-
derable importance.
BURNBANKS, a village, in the parish of Nigg,
county of Kincardine ; containing 60 inhabitants. It
is a small village, lying contiguous to two others, on the
eastern coast, and is occupied by fishermen, who have
two boats engaged in the white-fishery, and three boats
which proceed yearly to the herring-fishery on the north
coast.
BURNBRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Muir-
avonside, county of Stirling ; containing 67 inhabit-
ants. It lies in the east part of the parish, where the
river Avon separates the county of Stirling from Lin-
lithgowshire.
BURNESS, county of Orkney. — See Cross.
BURNHAVEN, a village, in the parish of Peter-
head, district of Buchan, county of Aberdeen, 2
miles (S.) from Peterhead. This village is situated near
the mouth of the burn of Invernettie, from which it
has its name, and consists of about thirty houses,
erected by George Mudie, Esq., and inhabited by fisher-
men, who employ seven boats in the herring-fishery.
The houses are on the acclivity of the sea-shore, nearly
level with the high-water mark ; and a small but con-
venient harbour for the fishing-boats, has been con-
structed by Mr. Mudie, at an expense of £300.
BURNS, a hamlet, in that part of the parish of
Markinch which formed the quoad sacra parish of
Milton of Balgonie, county of Fife ; containing 28
inhabitants.
160
BURNTISLAND, a pa-
rish, burgh, and seaport
town, in the district of Kirk-
caldy, county of Fife, 4|
miles (S. W. by W.) from
Kirkcaldy, and 9 (N. by E.)
from Edinburgh ; contain-
ing, with the village of Kirk-
ton, 2210 inhabitants, of
whom 1572 are in the burgh.
This place, once called Ber-
tyland, is said, but erro-
Burgh Seal. ne0usly, to have derived its
present appellation from a small island in the har-
bour, originally inhabited by a colony of fishermen,
whose dwellings were destroyed by fire. The harbour
appears to have been selected as a landing-place for his
forces, by the Roman general Agricola, who, with his
fleet, explored this part of the coast of Britain ; and on
the summit of an eminence in the parish, called Dunearn
Hill, are the ruins of a fortress in which his army was
stationed. Few events of historical importance are
recorded : the town belonged to the abbey of Dunferm-
line, previously to the middle of the 16th century, when
James V. exchanged it for other lands, and erected it
into a royal burgh, soon after which it became a place
of considerable trade, and its harbour was the chief port
of an extensive line of coast including the ports of King-
horn, Kirkcaldy, Dysart, Wemyss, Leven, Elie, St.
Monan's, Pittenweem, Anstruther, Crail, St. Andrew's,
and South Queensferry. In 1601, a meeting of the
General Assembly of the Kirk of Scotland was held in
the town, at which James VI. was present, and recom-
mended a revision of the common translation of the
Sacred Scriptures, and of the version of the Psalms of
David. During the parliamentary war in the reign
of Charles I., the town was assaulted by the forces of
Cromwell, to whom the inhabitants surrendered it, on
condition of his repairing the streets, and improving
the harbour, which remained for a considerable time in
the state in which he placed them in fulfilment of the
contract. During the disturbances in 1715. the town
was taken possession of by the Earl of Mar's forces,
who, by commanding the harbour, insured the arrival
of stores and auxiliaries from abroad.
The town, which is situated on the shore of the
Frith of Forth, is neatly built, and amply supplied with
water, which was first introduced hy the magistrates
and council, at an expense of £1000, defrayed from the
funds of the burgh ; a subscription library, containing
about 600 volumes, has been established, and there is a
regular daily post. A fair is held on the 10th of July ;
and from the favourable situation of the place, and the
facilities of bathing this part of the coast affords, the
town is much frequented during the summer months.
The port formerly carried on an extensive trade, for
which it was chiefly indebted to the convenience of its
harbour, which, for its great security and facility of ac-
cess, obtained the appellation of Portus Gratia ; and in
many old documents, it is mentioned by the designation
of Partus Salutis. The trade, which consisted mainly in
the exportation of coal and salt, and the importation of
wines from France, and timber from Norway, declined
greatly after the union, and was almost discontinued
for a considerable time ; but it afterwards revived, and
BURN
B U R N
at present consists principally in the curing of herrings,
which are taken in the fishery established here, and ex-
ported to the neighbouring towns. The number of
herrings annually cured and exported amounts, on an
average, to about 18,000 barrels; there are eight esta-
blishments for curing, which -together employ from
seventy to eighty boats, having about 400 men. The
season commences in July, when these boats set sail for
Wick, Fraserburgh, and Rosehearty, where they remain
for nearly two months ; and between this place and the
several fishing- stations, about ten sloops are constantly
engaged in taking out cargoes of barrels and salt, and
in bringing home the fish that have been caught at each
place, to be cured for exportation. The whale-fishery
was established here, but only -for a few years, by a
company who annually sent out two vessels, of the ag-
gregate burthen of 700 tons, and each a crew of fifty
men. During the period from 1S30 to 1S35, the quantity
of oil procured was 1200 tons, and more than fifty tons
of whalebone, the preparation of which afforded employ-
ment to thirty persons, of whom nearly one-half were
oil-coopers, and the remainder women who were occu-
pied in cleansing the bone. The building and repairing
of ships were formerly carried on extensively, and at
present engage more than 100 persons ; but the largest
vessel built has not exceeded 450 tons' burthen. A
distillery at Grange, in the parish, consumes annually
about 11,000 quarters of malt, in the production of
nearly 190,000 gallons of whisky; and the amount of
duty payable exceeds £36,000. In connexion with this
establishment, the buildings of which are situated half
a mile from the town, about 700 head of cattle are
annually fed, producing to the proprietors a considerable
income ; and the whole concern affords employment to
about 100 men and fifty horses.
The harbour is capacious and easy of access, and,
from its depth, affords shelter to vessels of great burthen ;
the pier, on which a light-house has been erected, is
commodious, and its extension, with the improvement
of the ferry, would render this by far the most secure
harbour in the Frith. A dry-dock has been constructed,
in connexion with the harbour ; it is about 200 feet in
length, and seventeen feet in depth, at high water, and
is capable of i-eceiving vessels of 1000 tons. The road-
stead affords good anchorage, and is much frequented
in stormy weather ; the bottom is deep, even near the
shore, and the high grounds on the north, and a sand-
bank extending considerably into the sea on the east,
provide shelter for vessels in distress. A regular com-
munication with Newhaven, about five miles distant, is
maintained by steam-boats and sailing vessels, the latter
principally for carrying goods ; and there are about eight
vessels belonging to the port, the aggregate burthen of
which is 900 tons. At Starly burn is a small har-
bour, from which is shipped the limestone found on the
lands belonging to the Carron Company, and where also
ships frequently touch, to take in a supply of fresh
water ; there is also a pier to the east of the town,
chiefly used for the shipping of lime for neighbour-
ing districts. The town was, in 1541, erected into a
royal burgh, by James V., whose charter was confirmed
by his successor, James VI., with additional grants ;
and a new charter was bestowed upon the inhabitants by
Charles I., under which the government is vested in a
provost, three bailies, a treasurer, procurator-fiscal, and
Vol. I.— 161
a council of twenty-one, assisted by a town- clerk. The
provost and bailies, with all the other officers, are
elected by the council, who are chosen by the resident
householders. The magistrates exercise jurisdiction
within the burgh, and the bailies hold courts for the
trial of civil cases to any amount, and for the decision
of criminal offences, chiefly misdemeanours ; there is
also a court of guild, under a dean of guild chosen by the
council. The trading companies consist of the hammer-
men, tailors, weavers, fleshers, shoemakers, and bakers.
The burgh unites with those of Kirkcaldy, Dysart, and
Kinghorn, in returning a member to the imperial par-
liament ; the right of election is vested in the resident
householders occupying premises of the value of £10
per annum.
The parish is bounded on the south by the Frith,
and comprises about 3000 acres, of which 500 are mea-
dow and pasture, 100 woodland and plantations, and
the remainder arable land. The surface is exceedingly
irregular, being broken into parallel ridges of various
eminence, and, throughout the whole of its extent, is
finely diversified with hills and dales ; the highest of
the hills is Dunearn, which rises to the height of 700
feet above the level of the sea, commanding a most ex-
tensive and richly-varied prospect, embracing portions
of nearly fourteen counties. The soil is very various,
consisting of rich deep loam, of great fertility, with
lighter loam, gravel, sand, clay, and moss ; the prin-
cipal crops are, wheat, barley, oats, beans, and potatoes,
with the usual green crops. Great improvement has
taken place in draining the lands, and the system of
agriculture is in a very forward condition ; the cattle are
of the old Fifeshire breed, and the sheep generally of
the Cheviot. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£SS46. The plantations are but of modern growth, and
there is comparatively little ornamental timber, though
the soil seems well adapted to hard woods of every kind.
The substrata are chiefly limestone, sandstone, iron-
stone, clay-slate, shale, greenstone, trap-tuffa, and basalt;
and coal is supposed to exist, though none has hitherto
been wrought : in the strata of sandstone, limestone,
and shale, are various fossils, and amethysts, agates,
and chalcedony are found in great variety. Limestone
and sandstone are extensively quarried. Collinswell,
Grange, and Newbigging, all handsome edifices, are
pleasantly situated in grounds tastefully embellished.
The parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy and
synod of Fife; the minister's stipend is £185. 17- 4.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £50 per annum.
The church, a substantial edifice, with a low square tower,
and situated near the shore of the Frith, was erected by
the inhabitants, in 1592; it is adapted for a congrega-
tion of 900 persons. There are places of worship for
members of the Free Church and United Secession
Church. The burgh school affords instruction under a
master appointed by the council, who pay him a salary
of £26 ; he also receives a fourth part of the rent of
lands bequeathed in the year 1689, by John Watson,
Esq., provost of Burntisland, and now producing in
the whole £63 per annum, of which the remaining
three-fourths are divided among widows, under the di-
rection of the magistrates and council. There are several
vestiges of the fortifications of the town ; and on the
south side of the harbour, are portions of the walls
of an ancient fort. On a knoll projecting boldly into
Y
BURR
BUTE
the sea, at Lamberlaws, are traces of an encampment
said to have been occupied by Cromwell ; and on an
eminence overlooking the harbour, are the remains of
Rossend Castle, built in the fifteenth century ; it has been
greatly improved within the last few years, and forms a
pleasant residence, surrounded with gardens and planta-
tions. There are several tumuli in various parts, in one
of which were found coffins, of rudely squared stones ;
on an eminence in the north-west of the parish, are
some remains of the fort called Knockdavie, and about
a mile to the east of it, of another of similar construc-
tion.
BURRA and QUARFF, late a quoad sacra parish,
in the parish of Bressay, county of Orkney and Shet-
land ; containing 870 inhabitants. The district of Burra
lies west of the Mainland, from which it is separated
by Cliff Sound, and comprehends the isles of House,
Burra, Halvera, and Papa, the two last of which are of
very small extent. Halvera, situated two miles south
from Burra, is a precipitous elevation, approached by a
creek, and tenanted by only a few families ; and Papa,
a mile north from Burra, merely affords a residence to
two families. House or the eastern isle, which is about
half a mile from Quarff, and Burra or the western isle,
which is mostly the same distance from House, are
each formed principally of a hilly ridge, of rugged and
irregular appearance, the former about five miles in
length, and the latter about six. In one place, the isles
nearly touch each other, the communication being car-
ried on by means of a small bridge, consisting of beams
of wood resting on two piles of uncemented stones : the
coast of both islands is rocky. Quarff district, situated
between those of Bressay and Burra, and forming part
of the Mainland, is six miles south-west from Bressay,
and consists of a valley, which is about two miles long,
and half a mile broad, and is inhabited and cultivated ;
together with a tract of natural pasture on the north,
and another on the south, about a mile each in length.
The whole forms a pleasingly rural picture, ornamented
with cottages on each side of the winding valley, skirted
by the mountains, and separated from each other b)r
verdant meadows, with the advantage of an interesting
bay on the east and west. The southern part of the
valley is defended by the Cliff and Coningsbnrgh hills,
which here unite in a ridge, and the northern part by
those of Tingwall and Lerwick, the highest point of
which is estimated at 500 feet. The ecclesiastical affairs
are subject to the presbytery of Lerwick and synod of
Shetland ; the patronage belongs to the Crown, and the
stipend of the minister is £120, with a manse. There are
two churches, of which that of Quarff is the principal,
service being only occasionally performed at Burra ; the
church of Burra, situated near the southern extremity
of the western isle, was built in 1S04, and accommo-
dates about 200 persons ; that of Quarff was erected in
1830, by government, and made the chief place of wor-
ship, and contains about 300 sittings. A place of wor-
ship has been built for members of the Free Church. —
See Bressay.
BURRAY, an island, forming part of the ancient
parish of St. Peter, island of South Ronaldshay,
South isles of Orkney, and containing 532 inhabitants.
This is a low island, bounded on the south by Water
Sound, and on the north by Holm Sound, and is about
four miles in length, and one in breadth ; the soil, which
162
affords good pasturage, is in general a light dry sand,
mixed, in a few places, with some coarse clay : fishing
is the employment of a large portion of the population.
Across Water Sound is a ferry, a mile broad, to the
island of Ronaldshay.
BURRELTOWN, a village, in the parish of Car-
gill, county of Perth ; containing 485 inhabitants.
Here are a chapel of ease, unendowed, supported by
subscription, and a small school j also a place of worship
for members of the Free Church.
BUSBY, a village, partly in the parish of East Kil-
bride, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, but
chiefly in the parish of Mearns, Upper ward of the
county of Renfrew ; containing 902 inhabitants. This
village is pleasantly situated on the river White Cart,
of which the sides, abruptly precipitous and rocky, are
thickly wooded, and display much variety of scenery.
The inhabitants are employed chiefly in a print-field
and a factory in the immediate neighbourhood ; the
print-field is in the parish of East Kilbride, and the
cotton-factory, which was established in 1/80, in that
of Mearns. A penny-post has been instituted here,
under the office of Glasgow.
BUSHYHILL, a village, in the parish of Cambus-
lang, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; contain-
ing 393 inhabitants.
BUTE, ISLE OF, in the county of Bute ; com-
prising the parishes of North Bute, Kingarth, and
Rothesay, and containing S078 inhabitants. It is in the
Frith of Clyde, and separated from Cowal, a district of
Argyllshire, by a narrow channel ; its length is eighteen,
and its breadth between four and five, miles. The
northern parts are rocky and barren, but the southern
extremity is more fertile, well cultivated and inclosed,
and in some places finely wooded ; and it is said that
no part of Scotland has made more rapid progress in
agriculture than this island, within the last twenty years.
The climate is remarkably mild, especially in winter
and spring, and, during these seasons, is much resorted
to by invalids. The coast is rocky, but is indented with
several safe harbours, in which a number of small craft
are fitted out for the herring-fishery, which is the prin-
cipal occupation of the male inhabitants : the chief port
is Rothesay. The rateable annual value of the island is
£17,777- There are several remains of antiquity ; and
in particular, near Rothesay, are the ruins of an ancient
castle, with a fort, barracks, and drawbridge, once the
residence of the kings of Scotland ; there are also several
Danish towers, and fragments of fortifications on some
of the hill-tops.
BUTE, NORTH, a new civil parish, consisting of
part of the old parish of Rothesay, isle and county of
Bute, l| mile (N. W.) from Rothesay; containing, with
the island of Inch-Marnock. 765 inhabitants. This place,
which comprises about half of the island of Bute, owes
its origin to the erection and endowment, by the Mar-
quess of Bute, of an elegant church, in 1835, for the
accommodation of the inhabitants of the northern por-
tion of the parish of Rothesay. The church is pleasantly
situated in a valley between Kames bay on the east, and
Etterick bay on the west ; and the erection and endow-
ment, and building of the manse, with other expenses
attendant on the completion of the marquess's design,
are estimated at £S000 : the stipend of the minister is
£150, with an allowance of £12 in lieu of glebe. The
BYTH
CABR
Gaelic church in Rothesay is dependent upon North
Bute, the clergyman officiating there being the assistant
of its minister. The members of the Free Church have
a place of worship ; and a parochial school is situated,
but rather inconveniently, at Etterick, and supported by
a salary from the marquess, and by the fees.
BUTESHIRE, a county, on the western coast of
Scotland, consisting of the isles of Bute, Arran, Inch-
Marnock, and Great and Little Cumbray, in the Firth
of Clyde ; separated on the north from Argyllshire by
the straits called the Kyles of Bute, and on the west,
from the peninsula of Cantyre, by Kilbrannan Sound.
It lies between 55° 26' and 55° 56' (N. Lat.), and 4° 54'
and 5° 23' (W. Long.), and comprises an area of
about 257 square miles, or 164,480 acres ; 3067 inhabited
houses, and 97 uninhabited; with a population of
15,740, of whom 7155 are males, and S5S5 females.
The island of Bute, at a very early period, became the
property of Sir John Stuart, a son of Robert II., and
was confirmed to him by his brother, Robert III., and is
still the property of his descendant, the Marquess of
Bute ; that of Arran was granted by James III. to Sir
James Hamilton, whose descendant, the Earl of Arran,
was regent of Scotland during the minority of Mary,
Queen of Scots, and it now is the property of the Duke
of Hamilton. The civil business of the county is trans-
acted at the royal burgh of Rothesay, which is the only
town ; and under the act of the 2nd of William IV.,
the county returns a member to the imperial parlia-
ment.
The surface is various : the island of Bute, in the
central parts, is diversified with hills affording excellent
pasturage, and with valleys of rich arable land in excel-
lent cultivation ; Arran is rugged and mountainous, in-
terspersed w7ith glens of moss, through which several
streams, descending from the heights, flow into the
sea. The highest of the mountains in Arran, is Goat-
Fell, which has an elevation of 3500 feet above the sea ;
and from its summit is an extensive view, embracing
England, Ireland, and the Isle of Man. In both islands
there are numerous lakes ; and the coasts are indented
with fine bays, of which the chief in Bute are, Kilchat-
tan, Rothesay, and Kames, on the east, and Dungoil,
Stravannan, Scalpsie, St. Ninian's, and Etterick, on the
west ; the bays in Arran are, Lamlash, which is acces-
sible in every wind, Whiting, and Brodick, on the east,
and Druimadoun and Machry, on the west. Opposite
to St. Ninian's bay, is the island of Inch-Marnock ; and
at the entrance of Lamlash bay, is the Holy Island.
Freestone, limestone, slate, and an inferior kind of coal,
are the prevailing substrata ; and near the shore, are
some beds of coral and shells of great thickness. The
rateable annual value of the county is £30,9/6. The
chief seats are, Brodick Castle, at the head of the bay of
that name ; and Mount Stuart, situated on an accli-
vity opposite to the entrance of the Clyde. The island
gives the title of Marquess to the ancient family of
Stuart.
BUTTERGASK, a village, in the late quoad sacra
parish of Ardoch, parish of Dunblane, county of
Perth ; containing 65 inhabitants. It. is situated in
the eastern part of the parish, on a stream tributary to
the Allan, and a short distance from the roab between
Auchterarder and Dunblane.
BYTH, NEW.— See Newbyth.
163
CABRACH, a parish, partly in the district of Al-
ford, county of Aberdeen, but chiefly in the county
of Banff, 12 miles (W.) from Clatt ; containing 827
inhabitants. This parish, which is about twelve miles
in length, from north to south, and four in breadth,
from east to west, is covered to a considerable extent
with moss and fir, and derives its name from certain
Gaelic terms signifying " the timber moss." The por-
tion in the county of Aberdeen consists of a deep exca-
vation in the form of a basin, surrounded by hills ;
and that in Banffshire of winding valleys, skirted on
each side by lofty eminences, and stretching along the
course of the Blackwater and Doveran streams. The
surface is exceedingly rugged, and the entire district
bleak, wild, and mountainous, spread over, to a great
extent, with tracts of peat-moss, affording an inexhaus-
tible supply of fuel ; large moors abounding with grouse,
partridges, hares, and almost every kind of game ; and
waste land incapable of cultivation ; the parts under
tillage bearing a very small proportion to the aggregate
number of acres. Green crops, and grass for hay,
thrive better than grain ; oats and bear, which are
chiefly sown, seldom coming to maturity in the higher
district except in fine seasons. The inhabitants, how-
ever, engage in agricultural pursuits with great spirit,
having introduced most of the improvements of thesouth-
ern parts ; the cattle are the black native breed, large
numbers of which are reared, with many sheep, and
some of the former are sent to the markets in the south,
in a lean condition, for sale, as well as to the surround-
ing districts. A considerable extent of waste has been
brought under tillage within the present century, and
inclosures of various kinds are in progress ; but the
bad state of the roads, and the want of sufficient capital
for their repair or enlargement, render agricultural im-
provement difficult. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £1632 for the Banffshire portion, and £830
for the Aberdeenshire portion. The district abounds
with limestone ; and a small grey slate is occasionally
dug up, and used chiefly for building,' within the loca-
lity. The mountain streams supply abundance of trout ;
the Doveran, which rises here in several heads, contains
excellent salmon, and in addition to the game upon the
moors, the forests of Glen-fiddich and Blackwater are
well stocked with fine deer. There were till lately two
establishments for the distillation of malt spirits, pro-
ducing annually 10,000 gallons. An annual market is
held on the Thursday after the third Tuesday in July
(O. S.), and another on the Monday before the second
Tuesday in October (O. S.), chiefly for the sale of black-
cattle bred here. The parish is in the presbytery of
Alford and synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of
the Duke of Richmond; the stipend is £158. 6. 7-, of
which nearly half is received from the exchequer ; there
is a manse, built in 1802, with about 2S acres of glebe,
valued at £10 per annum. The church is a plain edifice,
erected about 1786. The parochial schoolmaster re-
ceives a salary of £32. 2., with a few pounds derived
from fees ; and another school has a small endowment
from the Duke of Richmond. On the farm of Shenwell,
Y2
C A D D
CAER
at a place called " King's haugh," is an ancient ruin,
traditionally reported to have been the residence of Mal-
colm Canmore ; and near Lesmurdie, on the north bank
of the Doveran, are the remains of a chapel and burial-
ground.
CADDER, or CALDER, a parish, in the Lower
ward of the county of Lanark, 3 miles (W. by S.)
from Kirkintilloch ; containing, with the village of
Auchinearn, the hamlet of Bishopbridge, and the late
quoad sacra district of Chryston, 4425 inhabitants.
This place derives its name from its situation in the midst
of a district abounding with wood and water, of which
its appellation in the old British language, Colder, is
significant. It appears to have owed its origin, as a
parish, to the foundation of a church by St. Patrick, who
was born in the immediate vicinity, and who, towards
the close of the 5th century, founded numerous other
churches in the neighbourhood, which were subsequently
endowed by Convallus II., with lands for the mainte-
nance of their respective clergy. The parish is about
fourteen miles in length, and four in breadth, and the
surface, which is generally undulated, is diversified with
lakes, and by various tributary streams, which fall into
the river Kelvin, the parish boundary on the north and
west. Of the former, the most important were, Auchin-
loch, nearly in the centre of the parish, from which, on
its being drained some years since, a stream was con-
ducted to the Kelvin; Loch Grog, drained in 1844;
and Robroyston loch, in the western part, now almost
reclaimed into arable land. Johnston loch, in the east-
ern part, is about a mile in circumference, and is em-
ployed by the Forth and Clyde Company, as a reservoir
for supplying their canal, for which purpose, also, they
have appropriated the Bishop's loch, of which a small
portion is within this parish.
The soil is extremely various ; in some parts, a rich
black loam ; in others, mossy ; on the banks of the
various streams, chiefly alluvial ; and in some parts,
sandy. Several of the mosses, all of which abound with
peat, have been reclaimed, affording excellent crops.
About 9000 acres of land are in cultivation, about 300
deep moss, and there are something more than 500 acres
in plantations, of which the principal, on the Cadder
estate, contains .many trees of ancient and luxuriant
growth : there are several extensive dairy-farms, most!}'
stocked with cows of the Ayrshire breed. The crops
are, oats, wheat, potatoes, barley, rye, and turnips, in
the production of which the improved system of agri-
culture is adopted. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £21,941. The substratum is chiefly whin-
stone, many seams of which, in different parts, rise above
the surface; freestone is also found in abundance, alter-
nating with the whiustone, and large quantities of it
are sent to Glasgow. Limestone is prevalent; and coal
exists in the parish, at a considerable depth, but the
quality is not sufficiently good to remunerate the labour
of working it. There are some extensive tracts of clay,
used for pottery and bricks ; of the former, various
elegant specimens of vases have been produced, and
fire-bricks and crucibles of excellent quality are made of
the latter. Ironstone abounds, and is wrought to a
considerable extent by the Carron Company. The Forth
and Clyde canal intersects the western portion of the
parish, passing in a line nearly parallel with the river
Kelvin; the Kirkintilloch railway, opened in 1826,
164
crosses its eastern extremity, and the Garnkirk and
Glasgow railway, opened in 1831, passes on the south
side, for several miles. In 1842, the line of the Edin-
burgh and Glasgow railway was carried through the
parish. The village, formerly extensive, contains at
present only sixty-four inhabitants, employed on the
lands of its proprietor, whose mansion, recently enlarged,
forms the principal object of interest in the place.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintend-
ence of the presbytery of Glasgow and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr ; the patronage is in the heritors and Kirk
Session, and the stipend of the incumbent is £280. S., with
a manse, and a glebe of about ten acres. The church,
erected in 1S30, is a neat edifice of stone, in the early
English style, with a square tower, and is adapted for a
congregation of about S00 persons. There are three
parochial schools, situated respectively at Cadder,
Chryston, and Auchinearn ; the master in Cadder has
a salary of £25. 13., and the fees amount to more than
a sum of £55 ; the master at Chryston has £17. 2., with
£56 fees, and the master of Auchinearn has £8. 10.,
with £12 fees, and the interest of 1000 merks be-
queathed by the Rev. James Warden. Another school,
in the village of Auchinloch, is endowed with £300, be-
queathed by Patrick Baird, Esq. There are some re-
mains of the ancient Roman wall, near the glebe. In
1813, a gold coin of Antoninus Pius was discovered, in
a very perfect state, in clearing out the pond of Cadder ;
and in levelling the lawn before the house, the founda-
tions of the old tower appeared, in which was found a
vessel containing more than 300 gold coins, of the size
of a shilling, with the inscription Jacobus.
CAERLAVEROCK, a parish, in the county of
Dumfries, 5 miles (S. S. E.) from Dumfries; contain-
ing, with Sherrington, Bankhead, Glencaple-Quay, and
Blackshaws, 1297 inhabitants. Different opinions
exist in regard to the derivation of the name of this
parish, some interpreting the words of which it is
composed, "the castle with the buttress jutting out,"
and others, " the castle close upon the sea," referring to
the most prominent historical memorial in the place,
the singularly formed and strong fortress called Caer-
laverock Castle. It stands near the shores of the
Solway Frith, and is of triangular figure, having a
double moat, with portcullis after portcullis, to defend
the entrance ; there is also a provision for the dis-
charge of a torrent of molten lead on the heads of
the besiegers. The existing castle is the second build-
ing, the first, which has long been totally destroyed,
having nothing left but the foundations, which are
visible about 300 yards from the more modern
structure, and indicate the old castle to have been
somewhat smaller than the present, but of the same
form. The original castle is said to have been
founded in the 6th century, by Llyvvarch Og, and to
have been the chief seat of the ancient and illus-
trious family of Maxwell, in the days of King Mal-
colm Canmore ; it was attacked and taken by King
Edward I., who afterwards passed several days here.
The exact time when the second castle was built,
has not been ascertained, but is known to have been
before the year 1425 ; in 1570, it was ruined by the
Earl of Sussex, who had been sent with an English
army, to support James VI., after the murder of the
regent. It was, however, reinstated in its former
CAIR
C A I R
strength, by Robert, first Earl of Nithsdale, in ]63S;
and during the troubles of Charles I., its owner, who
had supported the royal cause with all his energies,
was ordered by that monarch to yield it up, on the
best terms he could obtain. After the siege by
Cromwell, it was found to contain eighty-six beds, forty
carpets, and a library worth £200.
The parish is six miles long, and about two broad,
containing 5800 acres, and is bounded on the south
by the Solway Frith ; on the east, by the Lochar ;
and on the west, by the river Nith, which separates
it from the county of Kirkcudbright. The Solway,
in this part, is about twelve miles wide. The Nith
is affected by the tide as far as Dumfries, but at
low water is easily fordable ; it forms about six miles
of the boundary line of the parish. The Lochar, on
the other side, flows through an extensive moss, which
prevents all communication in that quarter, except
in the driest months of summer, and then it is
passable only by pedestrians. The soil, to some ex-
tent, is mossy, but its general character is that of
light loam, and the worst soil is, in this district, usually
in the valleys : 4323 acres are cultivated, and produce
all kinds of white and green crops ; 126 acres are
under wood, 75 are moss and river, and 252 marsh.
The cattle are of the Galloway breed, with a few Ayr-
shire cows, and the sheep are the Leicesters ; the best
system of agriculture is followed, and the improvements
recently made in every department have been con-
siderable. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£4495. The rocks almost throughout consist of red
sandstone, which is easily wrought, and durable, and
is used for many purposes. At Glencaple-Quay, the
chief village, large vessels bound for Dumfries unload,
when unable, from their burthen, to reach their place
of destination. There is a salmon-fishery connected
with the parish, valued at £100 per annum, and a
white-fishing is valued at £40. The ecclesiastical affairs
are directed by the presbytery of Dumfries and synod
of Dumfries; patron, the Marquess of Queensberry. The
stipend of the minister is £177, with a manse, built
in 1S38, by the heritors, and a glebe of nearly 20
acres, valued at £32 per annum. The church, built in
1781, contains 470 sittings. There is a parochial
school, in which mathematics, the classics, and all
the usual branches of education are taught, and the
master of which has the maximum salary, with fees,
and £40 a year from the Hutton bequest. Two other
schools are supported out of bequests, and there is
a parochial library, instituted in 1S33. Dr. John
Hutton, first physician to Queen Anne, was born here,
and after realizing a handsome fortune by his pro-
fession, became a munificent benefactor to his native
parish, and left a valuable library to the presbytery of
Dumfries, comprising the prayer-book used by the
unfortunate King Charles when on the scaffold. This
prayer-book, however, was some time ago abstracted,
and sold at an auction in London for a large sum.
CAIRNBEDDIE, a hamlet, in the parish of St.
Martin's, county of Perth ; containing 44 inhabitants.
It is situated a very short distance north of the village
of St. Martin's.
CAIRNBULG, a village, in the parish of Rathen,
district of Deer, county of Aberdeen, 3 miles (N. N. E.)
from Rathen; containing 406 inhabitants. This is a
165
fishing village, situated on the north-eastern coast of
Fraserburgh bay, called Cairnbulg Point, and closely
adjoining Inverallochie, another village, of which the
inhabitants are also fishers. Here are the ruins of
an old castle, which seems to have been of considerable
strength, and was formerly the seat of the predecessors
of Lord Saltoun. It was called Philorth, until sold
by Sir Alexander Fraser, in 1613, to Fraser of Durris,
when its name was changed to Cairnbulg, Sir Alexander
transferring that of Philorth to another mansion, about
a mile westward, which has ever since been the resi-
dence of the lords Saltoun.
CAIRNEYHILL, a village, in the parish of Car-
nock, district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 3
miles (W. S.W.) from Dunfermline; containing 516 in-
habitants. This village, which is pleasantly situated
on the banks of the burn of Pitdennies, consists of
one long street of neat houses, on the road from
Dunfermline to Alloa. It is inhabited chiefly by per-
sons employed in the manufacture of table-linen, and
of table-covers, for the wholesale houses at Dunfermline,
which is carried on by hand-loom weaving, at their
own dwellings ; a considerable number are also engaged
in the adjacent collieries. A library has been esta-
blished for many years, and is supported by subscrip-
tion. There is a place of worship for members of
the United Associate Synod.
CAIRNIE, a parish, chiefly in the district of
Strathbogie, county of Aberdeen, but partly in the
county of Banff, 4 miles (N. W.) from Huntly; con-
taining 163S inhabitants. This place once formed
part of the lordship of Strathbogie, which was granted
to Sir Adam Gordon, by King Robert Bruce, after
the defeat and attainder of Cumin, Earl of Badenoch,
and was the original estate of the family of Gordon,
whose property, since that period, has become very
greatly extended. The surface is hilly, and compre-
hends 4S square miles, of which extent S000 acres are in
tillage, and 2600 acres were planted in the year 1S39
with 6,700,000 trees, by the Duke of Richmond, who
is proprietor of nearly the whole of the parish ; the
soil in the vicinity of the streams is fertile, and the
husbandry on a respectable footing. Extensive lime-
works are in operation at Ardonald, which, in the
twenty-three years previous to 1842, produced a revenue
of £69,770. The mosses supply part of the fuel con-
sumed, and the remainder consists of coal brought
from the coast, eighteen miles distant ; the substrata
comprise granite, clay-slate, greenstone, and a few other
varieties. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£5145. The black-cattle and dairy-produce, which are
the principal marketable commodities, are taken for
sale to Huntly, or sent to the coast ; and facilities of
communication are afforded by the road from Aberdeen
to Inverness, which passes through the parish. Cairnie
is in the presbytery of Strathbogie and synod of
Moray, and in the patronage of the Duke of Rich-
mond; the minister's stipend is £210. 0. 3., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £25 per annum. The
church, which stands in a central situation, was built
at the beginning of the present century. There is
a place of worship for members of the Free Church.
The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £18. 16., with
sixteen bolls of meal, and £15 fees; he also shares in
the Dick bequest.
C A 1 T
C A L D
CAIRNIE-HILL, Perth.— See Carnie-Hill.
CAIRNRYAN, a village, in the parish of Inch,
county of Wigton, 6 miles (N. by E.) from Stranraer ;
containing 196 inhabitants. It is seated on the east
side of Loch Ryan, and has a safe harbour, with good
anchorage, affording shelter to vessels entering into, or
coming from, the Frith of Clyde, in adverse weather.
The village is well situated for foreign trade, and also
adapted for ship-building ; there is a place of worship
for members of the Free Church.
CAITHNESS-SHIRE, a county in the north-east of
Scotland, bounded on the north by the Pentland Frith;
on the east and south-east, by the German Sea ; and on
the west and south-west, by the county of Sutherland.
It lies between 58° 10' and 58° 40' (N. Lat.), and 3° and
3° 65' (W. Long.), and is about forty-three miles in
length, and thirty miles in breadth ; comprising an area
of 618 square miles, or 395,520 acres; 6965 inhabited
houses, and 216 uninhabited : and a population of
36,343, of whom 17,135 are males, and 19,20S females.
On account of its remote situation, it had little inter-
course with the principal parts of the country, and is
consequently connected with few historical events of
importance, except occasional hostilities with the Danes
and Norwegians, of which there are some memorials in
various monumental relics. From ancient records, it
appears to have been erected into an earldom, in 875 ;
the title, after being for a long period in abeyance, was
revived in favour of William Sinclair, a descendant of
Robert II., in 1455. Many of the men of Caithness
attended James IV., at the battle of Flodden Field,
under the Earl of Caithness ; but scarcely an individual
of the number survived that fatal conflict. Previously
to the Reformation, this county, jointly with Suther-
land, constituted a diocese, of which the cathedral and
episcopal palace were situated at Dornoch ; it is, at
present, in the synod of Sutherland and Caithness, and
comprises one presbytery and ten parishes. For civil
purposes, it is divided into the districts of Wick and
Thurso, where the quarter-sessions and other courts are
held alternately ; and it contains the royal burgh of
Wick, which is the county town, the town of Thurso,
and a few inconsiderable villages.
The surface is generally level, with the exception of
some mountainous tracts on the borders of Sutherland,
and a few eminences in other parts ; the chief moun-
tains are, the Ord of Caithness, which has an elevation
of 1250 feet, the Scarry hills, 1876 feet, and the Maiden
Paps, an elevation of 2000 feet above the sea. The
principal valleys are those of Berriedale, at the base of
the last ridge of mountains, and the plain of Caithness,
extending to the Pentland Frith, and comprising about
four-fifths of the lands, though interspersed with de-
tached hills, some of which are of considerable height.
There ai-e numerous lakes, but none of any great extent ;
and of the various streams which intersect the county
in many parts, those only that approach the resem-
blance of rivers, are the Forrs and Thurso waters in the
north-west, and the Wick and Berriedale waters in the
south-east. The coast is bold, rocky, and precipitous,
indented with numerous bays, and marked by lofty
promontories. Along the shore of Pentland Frith, are
caverns in the rocks, from which the agitated waters,
ascending with prodigious force, overspread the neigh-
bourhood with incessant foam ; and about four miles to
166
the north of the coast, and nearly in the centre of the
Frith, is the island of Stroma, which is annexed to the
county. The bays are those of Sandside, Thurso, Dun-
net, and Gills, on the north ; and Duncans, Freswick,
Sinclair, and Wick, on the east : the most prominent
headlands are, Holburn, Dwarrick, Dunnet, Duncans,
Skirsa, Noss, and Wick. Little more than a fifth part
of the land is in cultivation, consisting chiefly of tracts
near the rivers, and the slopes of the various eminences;
the remainder is mostly moor, some parts of which are
nearly 300 feet above the sea. The rateable annual
value of the county is £65,869. The principal seats
are, Barogill Castle, Thurso Castle, Dunbeath, Freswick,
Hempriggs, Ackergill, Barroch, Forrs, and Sandside.
The herring-fishery off the east coast is extensive and
lucrative, indeed the most important in Britain ; there
are several harbours for the vessels engaged in the fish-
eries, and considerable quantities of grain, cattle, and
wool are shipped. The county gives the title of Earl
to the ancient family of Sinclair.
CALDER, Inverness and Nairn. — See Cawdor.
CALDER, county of Lanark. — See Cadder.
CALDER BANK and BRAES, a village, in the
parish of Old Monkland, Middle ward of the county
of Lanark ; containing 1064 inhabitants. It is seated
on the banks of the river Calder, and south of the high
road from Airdrie to Glasgow ; the Calder here, flowing
on the south, separates the parish from that of Both-
well.
CALDER, EAST.— See Kirknewton.
CALDER, MID, a parish, situated in the county
of Edinburgh ; containing, with the village of Bells-
Quarry, 1456 inhabitants, of whom 550 are in the vil-
lage of Mid-Calder, 12 miles (W.) from Edinburgh.
This place, which formed part of the extensive district
of Calder, obtained the appellation of Calder- Comitis,
from its having been the property of the earls of Fife,
in the twelfth century ; the barony afterwards became
part of the ample possessions of Sir James Sandilands,
whose descendant, Lord Torphichen, is the present pro-
prietor. The large parish of Calder-Comitis was, by the
presbytery of Linlithgow, divided, in 1645, into the two
parishes designated Mid and West Calder. Mid-Calder
is about seven miles in length, and from two to three miles
in breadth, comprising 12,339 acres, of which about 200
are woodland and plantations, and of the remainder,
about one-third is arable, and two-thirds are meadow and
pasture. The surface is generally an extensive plain,
bounded on the south by a ridge called the Cairn Hills,
forming a continuation of the Pentland range, and of
which the highest has an elevation of about 1S00 feet
above the sea, commanding an unbounded view of the
Frith of Forth, with the adjacent country towards Stir-
ling, the coast of Fife, and the Ochils. The principal
streams are, the river Almond, and the Murieston and
Linhouse waters, which two latter unite their streams,
and flow into the Almond a little to the north of the
village. The scenery is pleasingly varied, and enriched
with wood ; the ancient forest of Calder has been greatly
diminished, in the progress of cultivation, but there are
still considerable remains of stately timber, and also
extensive modern plantations, consisting of common
and spruce firs, larch, oak, ash, beech, and elm.
The soil, along the banks of the river and its tribu-
tary streams, is a rich, dry, and fertile loam, and, in
C A L D
C ALD
some parts, clay, which has been greatly improved by
draining and the use of lime. The arable lands produce
favourable crops of grain ; but the principal reliance of
the farmers is on the dairies, which are well managed;
and on many of the farms, a considerable number of
sheep are pastured. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £7667. The substrata are chiefly freestone,
limestone, and vvhinstone, all of which have been exten-
sively wrought. : a quarry of limestone has long been in
operation, on the lands of Easter Murieston. In Calder
Wood, is a quarry of freestone, excellent for every kind
of building ; there are quarries of freestone underneath
the Cairn hills. Ironstone is found in the beds of the
rivers, but not in sufficient quantity to remunerate the
labour of working it. Lead-ore has been discovered on
several parts of the Harburn estate, but has not been
wrought ; and seams of coal have been met with, in the
upper districts of the parish, one of which is nearly
four feet in thickness. Calder House, the seat of Lord
Torphichen, is a spacious and elegant mansion, beauti-
fully situated on the bank of the Murieston water, near
its confluence with the river Almond, in an ample de-
mesne, richly embellished with stately timber. In the
more ancient part of the structure, the walls are seven
feet in thickness, and in the old hall, now the drawing-
room, John Knox, for the first time after the Reforma-
tion, publicly administered the sacrament of the Lord's
Supper, according to the Protestant form ; in this room
are portraits of the Reformer, and Mary, Queen of Scots.
In the centre of the kitchen, is a deep draw-well, from
which is a subterraneous passage to the village. Muries-
ton Castle, another seat, has been repaired and partly
rebuilt by the proprietor ; and the ancient mansion of
Linhouse, now Burnbrae, is an embattled structure, with
towers in good preservation. The village is pleasantly
situated on the road from Edinburgh to Glasgow, on an
eminence between the Almond and the Linhouse water,
and under the shelter of Calder Wood. There are two
paper-mills ; and fairs are held on the second Tuesday
in March, and the Friday after the second Tuesday in
October, for the sale of cattle and horses, and for hiring
farm servants.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintend-
ence of the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale and pres-
bytery of Linlithgow. The minister's stipend, includ-
ing £S. 6. S. for communion elements, is £158. 6. 8., of
which £SS. 17. 10. are paid by the exchequer, with a
manse, and a glebe of forty-three acres, valued at £64
per annum ; patron, Lord Torphichen. The church, an
ancient structure in the early English style, contains 438
sittings. There is a place of worship for Seceders. The
parochial school is well attended ; the master has a sa-
lary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees, &c.,
average £65 ; he also receives the proceeds of a bequest
for teaching music, amounting to £11. The ancient
castle of Cairns, of which there are some remains, con-
sisting of a tower, is supposed to have been founded by
Sir William Crichton, lord high-admiral of Scotland, in
1440. In the south-west part of the parish, on the
summit of an eminence called Castle Grey, are tolerably
perfect remains of a Roman camp, in which various
Roman coins have been found. There are also nume-
rous tumuli on the banks of the river Almond, and ar-
tificial mounds, of which four, on its south bank, point
out the field of a battle between the Picts and Scots.
167
CALDER, WEST, a parish, in the county of Edin-
burgh, 16| miles (W. S. W.) from Edinburgh ; con-
taining 1666 inhabitants, of whom 434 are in the village.
This parish is of triangular form, in the south-western
extremity of the county, and bounded on the north-
west by Linlithgowshire, from which it is separated by
the Breich water, a stream tributary to the river Almond ;
on the north-east, by the parish of Mid Calder ; and on
the south, by Lanarkshire. It is about ten miles in
length, and five and a half in average breadth, com-
prising about 20,000 acres ; the surface bordering on
Lanark, is elevated and hilly, attaining a height of 7 00
feet above the sea, and, though greatly improved by
recent plantations, has still a bleak and cold appearance.
The soil is chiefly a black mossy earth, naturally moist,
lying on a till bottom ; and there are some extensive
tracts of moor, interspersed with arable land of moderate
fertility. The system of agriculture has, of late, been
much improved, and the soil, which in many parts is
very wet, has been rendered much more productive by
draining. The crops raised here are, oats, wheat, barley,
flax, peas, turnips, and potatoes. The hills afford good
pasture for sheep and cattle, of which large numbers
are reared ; of late, great attention has been paid to the
management of dairy-farms, and excellent butter and
cheese are sent to the Edinburgh market. The farms
are generally of moderate extent ; and most of those
which are chiefly arable, contain a considerable portion
of moorland. The plantations, principally of fir, and
which were formerly confined to the lands around the
houses of the proprietors, have been much extended ;
indeed, a general improvement in the appearance of the
district has recently taken place. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £7090.
The chief substrata are limestone and coal, of which
the former is generally more adapted for building pur-
poses than for manure ; a seam for burning into lime is
wrought on the estate of Handexwood, and is of a good
kind. Coal is worked in various places within the
limits of the parish ; ironstone has, for many years,
been wrought at Handexwood, by the Wilsontown Iron
Company, and, for the last three or four years, on the
estate of Muldren, by the Shotts Company, though not
to any very great extent. The principal houses are,
Hermand, erected by the late Lord Hermand, in 1797 ;
Limefield and Harburn, in 1804 ; and Hartwood, in
1S07. The high road from Edinburgh to Ayr passes
through the parish. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the jurisdiction of the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale
and the presbytery of Linlithgow ; patron, John Drys-
dale, Esq. The minister's stipend, by augmentation
from government, is £158. 6. 8., of which above two-
thirds are received from the exchequer ; the manse,
rebuilt in 1S37, is a handsome residence, and the glebe
comprises 24 acres, valued at £24 per annum. The
church was built in 1643; in 1844 a place of worship
in connexion with the Free Church was erected, and
there is a meeting-house for the United Secession. The
parochial school is attended by about 85 children ;
the master has a salary of £34, with an excellent house
and a good garden, and the fees average about £16.
On the lands of Harburn, at the south-eastern extremity
of the parish, are vestiges of an ancient castle, said to
have been fortified by Oliver Cromwell, to check the
depredations committed by the moss-troopers; and on
CALL
CALT
the summit of a hill colled Castle Craig, are the remains
of a Roman camp of small extent, near which several
Roman coins have been found.
CALF, an island, in the parish of Kilninian and
Kilmore, district of Mull, county of Argyll. This
island, which is of extremely small extent, lies off Tober-
mory, in the north-eastern part of the parish, and is in
that portion of the Sound of Mull which borders on
Loch Sunart ; its length is about three times as great
as its breadth, and it stretches in a direction parallel to
the coast of the main land.
CALLANDER, a parish, in the county of Perth ;
containing, with the village of Kilmahog, 1665 inhabit-
ants, of whom 1107 are in the village of Callander,
6 miles (N. N. E.) from Port of Monteith. This place de-
rives its name, of Gaelic origin, from an ancient ferry
across the river Teath, the principal road to which lay
within its limits. The parish is about eighteen miles in
length, and varies greatly in breadth, being in some
parts scarcely a mile, and in others nearly ten miles. It
is bounded on the north and north-west by a branch of
the Grampians ; and the scenery is boldly varied by
hills and mountains, of which the most prominent is
Ben-Ledi, which has an elevation of 2863 feet above the
sea, and forms a boundary of the valley that contains
the village. A hill near the village forms also a very
interesting feature in the landscape, being richly clothed
with flourishing plantations, formed some years since,
by Lady Willoughby de Eresby ; the hill called the
Crag of Callander bounds the vale on the north, and in
the vicinity flows the Teath, adding, with its lofty
wooded banks, materially to the beauty of the scenery.
This river is formed by the union of two streams which
issue, respectively, from the north and south sides of
Ben-Ledi ; and over it is a bridge, at the village, from
which the view in every direction is strikingly pictu-
resque. Another river, named the Keltie, forms a
boundary to the parish, on the eastern side, and, after a
devious course, falls into the Teath ; across it, is a
bridge at Brackland, which is an object of great interest,
and much admired. There are also various lakes, some
of which are caused by the natural obstructions that the
rivers find in their course ; Loch Venachoir, on the
south of Ben-Ledi, is about four miles in length, and
connected with it are the lakes of Auchray and Katrine,
both rich in picturesque beauty, and described in the
article on Aberfoyle, an adjoining parish.
The lakes, as also the rivers, abound with trout and
other fish, among which are, eels, pike, perch, char, and
salmon ; and the former are frequented by different
kinds of aquatic fowl. The parish is well wooded, and
extensive plantations have been formed ; the timber is
principally oak, ash, alder, birch, larch, hazel, and wil-
low; the oak is much cultivated, and a considerable
quantity of bark is sold to the tanners. The soil varies
greatly ; little more, even of the low lands, is cultivated
than is sufficient for the supply of the inhabitants, who
are chiefly attentive to the rearing of cattle and sheep,
for which the hills and vales afford excellent pasturage.
The system of agriculture, as far as it is practised upon
the few arable farms in the parish, is improved ; and
the crops are, oats of various kinds, barley, potatoes,
and turnips. The breed of black-cattle is much attended
to ; the Cheviot and Leicestershire breeds of sheep are
pastured on the low lands, and the black-faced on
168
the hills. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£7200. The substrata are, limestone, slate, freestone,
and pudding-stone ; the limestone is of good quality,
and is worked, not only for the supply of this parish,
but for many others, and considerable quantities of lime
are sent to distant parts. The slate is of a brownish
colour, and was formerly quarried on several lands; the
freestone, which is grey, is very excellent, and exten-
sively quarried for building. The proprietor of Gart
has erected a spacious and handsome residence on the
north bank of the Teath ; the grounds are tastefully
embellished, and command some highly interesting
views.
The village, which is on the great road from Stirling
to the Western Highlands, consists chiefly of one spa-
cious street ; the houses are well built of stone, and
roofed with slate, and the inhabitants are amply sup-
plied with water, which is conveyed by leaden pipes.
There is a subscription library. A considerable trade is
carried on, and great quantities of wool are sent to
Bannockburn, Glasgow, and Liverpool, for the use of
carpet manufacturers. A daily post has been esta-
blished under Stirling. A market is still held ; and
fairs occur in March and May, for black cattle, sheep,
and horses, and some smaller fairs for lambs, hiring of
farm servants, and other business. There is also a
spacious inn, for the accommodation of the numerous
parties who frequent this place, to view the many inter-
esting spots in the neighbourhood. The parish is in
the presbytery of Dunblane and synod of Perth and
Stirling; the minister's stipend is £197- 14. 11., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £38 per annum ; patron,
the Crown. The church, a neat edifice, with a tower
and spire, was erected in 1773, and is adapted for a
congregation of 800 persons. A place of worship has
been erected in connexion with the Free Church. The
parochial school affords a liberal education ; the master
has a salary of £34, with £36 fees, and a house and
garden. About a mile from the village is a hill rising
perpendicularly 300 feet, and having, on the summit,
the remains of an ancient fortification, from which the
height takes the name of " Dun-bo-chaistil ;" the gate-
way, and several traces of ditches and mounds, are dis-
tinctly visible, and within the inclosure is a well, which
has been filled in, to prevent accidents to the cattle that
feed there. In the plain immediately around it, is a
mound of earth, strengthened with stones, which may
probably have been an outpost ; but the history of this
relic of ancient times is not known. Near the manse,
are the remains of Callander Castle, once a building
of great strength ; and on the lands of Auchinlaich, are
those of an ancient fort, in good preservation, and
nearly entire. There is a circular mount of considerable
height, near the churchyard, called the Hill of St.
Kessaig ; and a fair is held there annually in March,
called the festival of St. Kessaig. About half a mile
to the west of it, is a similar tumulus, called Little
Leney, where was anciently a chapel.
CALTON, a manufacturing district and late a quoad
sacra parish, in the parish of Barony, county of La-
nark ; included within the parliamentary boundary of
Glasgow, and comprising Old and New Calton. These
villages, formerly part of the barony of Barrowfield,
were, by royal charter, in 1817, erected into a burgh of
barony, containing about fifty-three acres, of which
CAMB
C AM B
twelve are attached to Old, and forty-two to New Cal-
ton ; the houses are neatly built of brick, and roofed
with tiles, for the manufacture of which clay of good
quality abounds in the immediate vicinity, and the
streets, especially those of the latter village, are regu-
larly formed. A handsome mechanics' institution has
been erected. The population is chiefly employed in the
cotton manufacture, and in hand-loom weaving, which
are carried on to a very considerable extent ; the manu-
facture of thread affords employment to several hun-
dreds of men and women, and there are numerous shops
for the supply of the inhabitants with groceries and
other articles of merchandise. The government of the
burgh is vested in a provost, three bailies, a treasurer,
and eleven councillors, of whom one acts as dean of
guild ; they are all elected annually, with the exception
of the elder bailie, who holds his office for two years ;
the provost is chosen by the burgesses generally, as are
likewise the bailies and the treasurer. The burgesses
have no exclusive privileges, nor can any inhabitant be
compelled to be a burgess ; those who choose to become
burgesses pay a fee of £2. 2. on admission. The ma-
gistrates and council have the privilege of a weekly
market, which is held on Saturday, and of which they
receive the tolls and customs. Their jurisdiction ex-
tends, in civil cases, over the territory of the burgh,
and, in criminal cases, over the whole of the police dis-
trict ; they hold a court for the recovery of debts not
exceeding 40s., and a police court, in which a town-
clerk, appointed by the superior of the burgh, acts as
assessor. The number of £10 householders is 264,
of whom thirty-two are resident burgesses. The late
quoad sacra parish of Middle Calton, containing 7185
inhabitants, and comprised within the presbytery of
Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, was formed
in 1834; the minister's stipend is £250: the church,
built in 1793, as a chapel of ease, at an expense of
£1495, and since repaired and enlarged, is a neat struc-
ture, and contains 1400 sittings. There are places of
worship for members of the Relief Church, and Wes-
leyans ; a burgh school, in which are 140 children, is
taught by a master who has a house rent-free, and £10,
in addition to the fees, and there are numerous other
schools.
CAMBUS, a village, in the parish of Alloa, county
of Clackmannan, 2 miles (VV.) from Alloa; containing
2S7 inhabitants. This village, which is pleasantly situ-
ated on the west bank of the river Devon, is inhabited
chiefly by persons who are employed in an extensive
distillery, which is minutely described in the article on
Alloa. A small fishery for salmon, in the Devon, is
carried on with considerable success ; it is the property
of Lord Abercromby, under whom it is held on lease, at
£20 per annum. Michael Stirling, who lived in the
village, invented the threshing-mill, upon which many
improvements have been subsequently made.
CAMBUS, OLD. — See Cockburnspath.
CAMBUSBARRON, a village, in the parish of St.
Ninian's, county of Stirling, 1^ mile (S. W.) from
Stirling ; containing 676 inhabitants, who are chiefly
engaged in wool-spinning, and in the manufacture of
tartans and shawls. A small school here has an endow-
ment of £10 per annum, arising from a bequest.
CAMBUSKENNETH, or ABBEY, a village, in the
parish of Stirling, but locally in the county of Clack-
Vol. I.— 169
mannan, 1 mile (E.) from Stirling ; containing 227 in-
habitants. This place, which is situated on a peninsula
formed by the winding of the river Forth, takes its
name, signifying " the field of Kenneth," from some
ancient event not distinctly recorded, in which one of
the Scottish kings of that name is supposed to have
been concerned. A monastery for canons regular of
the order of St. Augustine, was founded here in i 147,
by David I., who richly endowed it with lands in vari-
ous parts of the kingdom ; and the endowment was
augmented by many of his successors. This establish-
ment, of which the abbots were frequently styled abbots
of Stirling, continued to increase in importance ; it was
the place of interment of James III. and his queen, and
the scene of many transactions connected with Scottish
history. The buildings were extensive and magnificent ;
but, soon after the Reformation, they were demolished
by the lords of the congregation, who had taken posses-
sion of Stirling ; and of the once splendid structure,
only one solitary tower is remaining. The church was
dedicated to St. Mary, from which circumstance, the
street leading to it from the town of Stirling was called
St. Mary's Wynd. On the dissolution of the monastery,
the lands were granted to the Earl of Mar, with whose
descendants they remained till the year 1737, when they
were purchased by the corporation of Stirling, on behalf
of Cowan's hospital. The village is chiefly inhabited by
persons employed in agriculture, and in the woollen
manufactures in the vicinity ; there is a ferry here over
the river Forth ; and a school is supported.
CAMBUSLANG, a parish, in the Middle ward of
the county of Lanark, 4§ miles (S. by E.) from Glas-
gow ; including the villages of Bushybill, Chapelton,
East and West Cotes, Cullochburn, Howieshill, Kirkhill,
Lightbum, Sauchiebog, Silverbanks, and Yicarland ;
and containing 3022 inhabitants. This place is sup-
posed to have derived its name from its situation
on the banks of the Clyde, which in this part of its
course, winding round the northern part of the parish,
separates it from Old Monkland. The barony in which
the greater portion is included, and which was an-
ciently called Drumsargart, belonged, in the reign of
Alexander II., to Walter Olifard, justiciary of Lothian,
and subsequently became the property of the Morays,
of Bothwell. The castle and barony afterwards passed
into the possession of the Earl of Douglas, who had
married the daughter of Sir Thomas Moray, and re-
mained in that family till 1452, when it was transferred
to James, Lord Hamilton, in the possession of whose
descendants it still continues, though its name was,
during the 17th century, changed from Drumsargart
to Cambuslang, the name of the parish. There are
no other remains of the ancient castle of Drumsargart,
than the mere site, from which it is supposed to have
derived its name, significant of its situation on a cir-
cular mount, at the extremity of a long ridge of ground
about thirty feet above the surface of the surrounding
plain. The parish is bounded on the east by the
river Calder, which is a tributary of the Clyde ; and
comprises 3507 acres, all arable and pasture land, with the
exception of about 200 in plantations, roads, and waste.
The surface, though generally level, is varied with
rising grounds and ridges, of which the principal are
Turnlaw and Dechmont, in the south- west ; the latter,
having an elevation of 600 feet above the sea, com-
C A M B
C A MB
mands an extensive prospect, comprehending the Tweed-
dale and Pentland hills, Ben-Lomond, and several of
the hills of Covval and Breadalbane. The adjacent
scenery is beautifully picturesque, embracing the wind-
ings of the Clyde, in its course from Lanark to Dum-
barton, with its richly-wooded banks, interspersed
with villages and gentlemen's seats, the plantations of
Hamilton, the romantic ruins of Bothwell Castle, and
the cathedral and city of Glasgow, which are here seen
with peculiar and striking effect. The Clyde is about
250 feet in breadth ; and the Calder, of which the banks
are ornamented with pleasing villas, and finely wooded,
is about forty feet wide.
The soil is generally good, and, in the low lands near
the Clyde, extremely rich and fertile. The principal
crops are oats and wheat, of which latter the culti-
vation has been, for sometime, progressively increasing,
under an improved system of agriculture ; peas, beans,
and potatoes are also raised in considerable quantities,
and a small proportion of barley. There are several
large dairy-farms, the produce of which is chiefly
butter, of excellent quality, sent to the Glasgow mar-
ket, where it finds a ready sale ; the cows are the
Ayrshire. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £11,555. The substratum is mainly argillaceous
freestone, lime and ironstone, and coal, all of which
are wrought, affording employment to many of the
population. The freestone is of good quality, and much
esteemed for ornamental building ; and the limestone,
which is peculiarly compact, and susceptible of a high
polish, is, under the appellation of Cambuslang marble,
wrought into mantel-pieces of great beauty. The
ironstone is found in several places, but is worked
only to a very limited extent. The coal lies at various
depths, and in some few places rises nearly to the sur-
face ; the field in which it is found forms part of
the coal district of the Clyde, and the seams vary
from three to five feet in thickness ; the mines in
this parish are the property of the Duke of Hamilton,
and are partly held on lease. The weaving of muslin for
the Glasgow manufacturers, formerly carried on to a
much greater extent, at present affords employment
to about 500 persons ; and there are corn-mills on
the Clyde and Calder. The principal seats are, Newton,
a handsome modern mansion; Calder Grove, also
recently erected ; and Gilbertfield, an ancient turreted
edifice. The parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; patron, the Duke of
Hamilton; the minister's stipend is £2S1. 11. 11.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 per annum.
The church, erected in 1743, a plain building, being-
much dilapidated, has been rebuilt on a larger scale,
for a congregation of 1000 persons; it is a handsome
structure in the Norman style, with a lofty spire.
There are places of worship for members of the Con-
gregational Union, and the United Secession Church.
The parochial school affords education to nearly 100
pupils : the salary of the master is £34, with £40
fees, and a good house and garden. On the summit
of Dechmont Hill, the foundations of ancient buildings
have been discovered ; and within the last fifty years,
considerable remains existed, but they have been re-
moved, for the sake of the materials, which have been
employed in repairing the roads, and for other pur-
poses. Among them were the remains of a circular
170
building, about 24 feet in diameter, of which the
site is supposed to have been occupied anciently as
a signal station, and is a place of security in case of
irruption from an enemy. At Kirkburn, was formerly
a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which appears
to have subsisted till the. Reformation ; but the only
memorial preserved of the building, is the name of
the land on which it stood, still called Chapelton.
Spittal Hill was the site of an hospital which has long
since disappeared. Dr. Claudius Buchanan, author of
Researches in India, was a native of the parish.
CAMBUSNETHAN, a parish, in the Middle ward
of the county of Lanark; including the villages of
Bonkle, Stane, and Stewarton and Wishawton ; the whole
containing 5796 inhabitants, of whom 485 are in the
village of Cambusnethan-Kirk, 4| miles (N. W.) from
Carluke. The name is derived from the Gaelic word
Camus, signifying a "bay" or "curve," applicable to the
remarkable windings of the river Clyde ; and from
Nethan, the name of the celebrated saint whom Archbi-
shop Usher styles " religiosissimus et doctissimus Nethan,"
and to whom the church was dedicated. The history
of the place is chiefly connected with the families of
Stewart, Sommerville, Hamilton, and Lockhart, all of
whom have been long located here, as large landed pro-
prietors ; the most remote occupation of the soil, how-
ever, of which we have any account, was by a family of
the name of Baird, to whom the valuable barony of
Cambusnethan belonged, at a very early period. The
parish is about twelve miles long, from east to west, and
a little more than four miles broad, and contains 26,000
acres. The surface is tolerably level in the western ex-
tremity, near the banks of the Clyde, but gradually
rises eastward to about 120 feet, forming a tract about a
mile in breadth, consisting of a rich and fertile soil,
which is well cultivated, and celebrated for the number
and quality of its hares. Another acclivity succeeds
this, rising to a height of about 250 feet, the larger
part of which is covered with orchards ; and still
further to the east, the lands, in many parts, rise to an
elevation of 900 feet, and command some very exten-
sive views of the surrounding country. The castle of
Edinburgh, Loudon-hill, Dumbarton Castle, and the
hills of Argyllshire may be distinctly seen from Know-
nowton ; and from the church, the prospect embraces
the cathedral of Glasgow, with at least fifteen country
churches. Besides the Clyde, there are several streams
running through the parish and upon its boundaries,
the peculiar character and flexures of which greatly
improve its interesting scenery. The South Calder,
rising in Linlithgowshire, forms about nine miles of the
boundary line between this parish and Shotts ; and for
some miles before its approach to the Clyde, into which
it falls, its banks are steep, exhibiting specimens of
highly ornamental scenery, and adorned with several
beautiful varieties of wood and garden. The Water of
Auchter, which rises in the parish of Carluke, after flow-
ing for more than a mile, on the boundary of that parish
and Cambusnethan, enters the latter, and, passing for
about three miles in a meandering route, falls into the
South Calder at Bridgend. Of these rivers, the Clyde
is said to contain twelve different species of fish ; the
chief is the salmon, which latterly has been abundant.
The prevailing soil is clayey, resting upon a stiff and
tenacious subsoil of till ; in the more elevated parts, it
C A M B
CAME
is much mixed with gravel and dark sand, and in the
vicinity of the Clyde, the haughs are a moist alluvial
compost, yielding, when well cultivated, fine crops.
About 10,000 acres are cultivated, or occasionally in
tillage; about 6000 are in woods, roads, quarries, &c. ;
160 acres in orchards, and a very considerable quantity
waste. Good grain of all kinds is raised, and fruit
forms a prominent article in the produce ; numerous
improvements have been made in agriculture within the
last few years, especially in draining, which is required
to a large extent, on account of the wet clayey nature
of the soil. Thriving hedges and plantations have also
been raised in many parts ; and dells and ravines, for-
merly the beds of broom, furze, and heath, have been
planted with larch, or formed into orchards. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £32,016. The sub-
terraneous productions are chiefly iron-stone and coal,
which may be procured in very large quantities ; the
district is included in the great coal-field of Lanarkshire,
and the coal is extensively wrought. In the neighbour-
hood of Headlecross, in the eastern part of the parish,
and on the grounds of Coltness and Allanton, the black-
band iron-stone is found of superior quality, and, in
various places, good sandstone is met with ; in several
directions, also, plentiful supplies are obtained of ex-
cellent clay, about ten feet in thickness, and used for
the manufacture of drain and roof tiles.
Among the principal seats is Cambusnethun House, an
elegant structure on the model of a priory, erected about
twenty years ago, upon the site of a mansion which
had been accidentally destroyed by fire ; it stands in a
romantic situation, and the grounds have been much
improved, within the last few years, especially the
orchards. IVishaw House, in the north-west corner of
the parish, upon the bank of the Calder, is an exten-
sive structure in the castellated style ; the front is
noble and commanding, varied by a number of different-
sized and well-proportioned towers. The apartments
are enriched by several portraits, among which are, one
of John, Lord Belhaven, who so zealously opposed the
Union ; and a very costly portrait, by Vandyke, of Sir
James Balfour, Lord Lyon, king-of-arms in the reign of
Charles I. The House of Coltness is an elegant and com-
modious building, between the dining and drawing
room of which, runs a gallery nearly 200 feet long,
hung round with ancient portraits of the family of
Stewart ; it stands in the midst of very extensive and
well laid-out grounds. Allanton House is a majestic
structure, wrought up, by various additions and im-
provements, from the old castle of Allanton ; it is
ornamented with an artificial lake of large dimensions,
and containing several islands, so covered with wood
that, from no part of it, is its extent capable of being
seen. Muirhouse is also an old structure, in a com-
manding situation.
The population are employed partly in manufactures ;
two tile- works are in operation upon the estate of
Wishaw, and one at Coltness. The Shotts iron-works,
on the borders of the parish, have caused an increase
of population, to the amount of about 2000, one-third
of whom reside at the village of Stane, and the rest in
Shotts ; and near Wishawton, in the westerly quarter
of the parish, a very extensive distillery has lately been
erected, by Lord Belhaven. A road from Edinburgh to
Ayr traverses the parish. The monks of Kelso anciently
171
held the tithes and other ecclesiastical rights of Cam-
busnethan, by grant, in the twelfth century, from Wil-
liam Finemund, lord of the manor; in the following
century the church was transferred to the bishops of
Glasgow, with whom it continued till the Reformation.
The ecclesiastical affairs are now subject to the presby-
tery of Hamilton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr;
there is a manse, with a glebe of four acres, and the
stipend is £278. 15. 1. ; patron, Robert Lockhart, Esq.
The church is a plain and \incomfortable building,
erected in 1640, in lieu of a more ancient edifice, part
of which is still standing : a third church, to supersede
the present, was begun in June, 1839, and is a handsome
edifice with a tower, but not yet completed or opened
for public worship. There are places of worship for
the Relief body, Reformed Presbyterians, and mem-
bers of the United Secession; also a parochial school,
at which are taught all the usual branches of education,
the master receiving the maximum salary, and about
£20 fees. Two subscription libraries are supported, the
books in which are chiefly historical and religious.
CAMELON, a village, in the parish of Falkirk,
county of Stirling, 1| mile (W.) from Falkirk; con-
taining 1340 inhabitants. This village, which is situ-
ated on the turnpike-road to Glasgow, is sometimes
called New Camelon, in contradistinction to the ancient
city of that name, supposed to have been a Roman
station, and, at one time, a very considerable sea-port
town. The probability of this supposition is corrobo-
rated by numerous vestiges of Roman antiquity, that
may still be traced on the line of the Roman road lead-
ing from the Wall of Antonine ; and by the discovery
of foundations of buildings, and the traces of various
streets, which, not many years since, were distinctly
apparent. There is also sufficient evidence, that the
river Carron was formerly navigable for vessels, far
above the site of the ancient city, where, in 1/07, several
antique boats, and the fragment of an anchor, were
found imbedded in the soil ; and the name of the ad-
jacent district called the Carse, implying lands reclaimed
from the sea, and their slight elevation above the level
of the Frith of Forth, by which, within the last fifty
years, they have been inundated, afford strong con-
firmation of the truth of that opinion. The inhabitants
are partly employed in the Carron iron-works, and in
the manufacture of nails, which was originally intro-
duced here by Mr. Cadell, of Carron Park, and for
which there are now two establishments, affording occu-
pation to 250 persons ; two distilleries are also carried on,
upon a moderate scale. A handsome church has been
built by subscription near the western extremity of
the village, on ground given by Mr. Forbes, of Callander,
who also contributed largely towards the expense of its
erection; it was opened on the 23rd of August, 1840,
and contains 660 sittings. A school, for which an ap-
propriate building has been erected, is also supported,
by subscription.
CAMERON, a parish, in the district of St. An-
drew's, county of Fife, 4 miles (S. S. W.) from St.
Andrew's; containing 1167 inhabitants. This place,
which formerly was included in the parish of St. An-
drew's, appears to have derived its name from the lands
on part of which the church was erected on its sepa-
ration, by act of parliament, in 1645. The parish is
nearly six miles in length, from east to west, and about.
Z2
C A M L
CAMP
four miles in breadth, and comprises 7144 Scotch acres,
of which 46S6 are arable, 176/ meadow and pasture,
476 woodland and plantations, and 214 rough pasture
and waste. The surface rises in gentle undulations,
from north to south, but not to any considerable height;
and an eminence to the north-west, called Drumcarro
Craig, is the only hill. The general scenery is agreeably
diversified with wood and water ; between the rising
grounds are small intervals of level land, in which
flow some pleasing streams ; and the various planta-
tions, consisting chiefly of larch, spruce, and Scotch
firs, add greatly to the appearance of the district. The
soil is, in some places, clay; in others, a rich black
loam, varying in depth from two inches to more than
two feet ; and in other parts of the parish, light and
dry, resting upon gravel and whinstone rock. The chief
crops are, wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips,
with the usual green crops ; the system of agriculture
is in a highly improved state ; the lands have been well
drained and inclosed. Considerable attention is paid
to the rearing of live stock ; the' cattle are principally
of the Old Fifeshire breed, which has recently been in-
troduced, and is found to be better adapted than the
Teeswater, formerly prevalent. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £8219- The substrata are mostly
whinstone, trap, freestone, limestone, and coal ; the
limestone is quarried on the lands of Radernie and
AVinthank, and from the former place a railroad has
been constructed, for conveying the limestone to the
kilns. Coal is wrought on the lands of Drumcarro, of
good quality ; the whinstone is quarried for repairing
the roads ; and at Hazzleden is a quarry of freestone.
The only seat is Mount Melville, a handsome mansion,
with a well-planted demesne. The parish is in the
presbytery of St. Andrew's and synod of Fife ; the
minister's stipend is £199. 12. 8., with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £10 per annum. The church, situated
nearly in the centre of the parish, and built in 1S08, is
adapted for 600 persons. There is a place of worship
for the United Associate Synod. The parochial school
is under good regulations ; the master has a salary of
£34, with £12. 10. fees, and a house and garden.
CAMLACHIE, lately a quoad sacra parish, includ-
ing the village of Parkhead, in the parish of Barony,
suburbs of Glasgow, county of Lanark ; containing
3654 inhabitants, of whom 2152 are in the village of
Camlachie, 1^ mile (E.) from Glasgow. Camlachie
comprises, besides the villages, a rural district contain-
ing a few acres of well-cultivated land ; it is pleasantly
situated on the north of the Clyde, but the houses are
in general indifferently built. On the bank of the river,
are the handsome mansions of Belvidere and Westthorn,
both of modern erection, and commanding fine pros-
pects. The art of letter-founding was introduced, and
brought to great perfection, by Mr. Alexander Wilson,
afterwards professor of astronomy in the university of
Glasgow, who, removing from St. Andrew's to this
place, established a foundry here, which was subse-
quently transferred to Glasgow. The population are
almost exclusively employed in hand-loom weaving, and
in the manufacture of muslins ; and in the immediate
vicinity, are several coal-mines, of which, however, one
only is in operation, for the supply of the district. In
the village of Parkhead, is a penny-post office, under
Glasgow. The parish was formed in 1838; the church
172
'ist^f^i
Seal and Arms.
is a neat, structure, erected by the Church Building
Society of Glasgow.
CAMPBELLTOWN, a
burgh and parish, in the dis-
trict of Cantyre, county of
Argyll ; containing, with
the villages of Dalintober
and Drumlemble, 9634 in-
habitants, of whom 5028 are
in the burgh, 60 miles (W.
S. W.) from Glasgow. The
name of this place was once
Dalruadhain, from its being
the seat of the ancient Cel-
tic Scots, and subsequently
Lochhead, from its situation at the inland extremity of
the loch of Kilkerran. Prior to the commencement of
the eighteenth century, it was merely an inconsiderable
fishing village ; but it was erected into a royal burgh,
through the interest of the Duke of Argyll, in 1700, and
then assumed its present name, in compliment to the
family of its patron. The town, which, since that
period, has greatly increased in extent and importance,
is beautifully situated on the southern shore of the lake
or inlet now called Campbelltown bay, along which it
extends in the form of a crescent. It consists of several
spacious and well-formed streets, diverging to the east
and west from the central or main street, which leads
from the old quay to the Castle hill, formerly the seat
of the ancient, lords of the Isles, and now the site of
the church. Parallel with these, to the south, are
various streets, of which Argyll-street, leading to the
grounds and mansion of the duke, is intersected at
right angles by several others, of which one extends
from the new pier to the Gaelic church. The streets
are well paved, and lighted with gas ; and the inhabit-
ants are supplied, though scantily, with excellent water,
conveyed from a spring in the neighbourhood, at the ex-
pense of the burgh. There are two circulating libraries,
which are furnished with journals and periodical pub-
lications. The immediate environs abound with hand-
some seats and villas, the residences of numerous re-
spectable families, ranged along the north and south
shores of the bay, which is nearly two miles in length,
and about one mile in breadth, and is enlivened with
gentlemen's pleasure-boats, and by the frequent arrival
and departure of the steamers navigating the Clyde.
The trade of the town arises chiefly from its distil-
leries, and fisheries, which are carried on to a very great
extent. There are not less than twenty-five distilleries,
which together, in 1842, consumed 303,711 bushels of
barley, and 79,508 bushels of bear ; producing 747,502
gallons of whisky, of which 1-2,978 gallons were shipped
for England, 3413 to Ireland, 4346 to foreign parts, and
the remainder, 58,760 gallons, principally to Glasgow.
The trade of the port consists mainly in the exportation
of whisky, malt, black-cattle, sheep, horses, beans,
potatoes, turnips, and other agricultural produce, with
butter, cheese, and fish ; and in the importation of
barley, yeast, coal, timber, iron, and general merchan-
dise. The fish taken off the coast are of the usual
variety of white fish, and, till recently, were caught by
single lines, in great numbers ; but the quantity has
been greatly increased by the introduction of lines of
great length, floated on the surface of the water by
CAMP
CAMP
buoys, and to which are appended numerous single
lines, of length sufficient to reach the depth at which
the fish are most generally found. About 500 families
are employed in this fishery. The herring-fishery is
extensively carried on, during the months of June, July,
and August ; and in 1843, 150 boats, of four men each,
were engaged in this fishery, in the sound of Kilbrandon.
Cod, haddock, and ling are also taken in abundance,
and are partly sent in a fresh state to Glasgow, whence
they are conveyed to the neighbouring towns, and parti}'
dried for the purpose of exportation to distant mar-
kets.
The number of vessels registered, as belonging to the
port, is thirty-three, chiefly sloops and schooners in the
coasting trade ; this is exclusive of the number of fish-
ing-boats, which is very considerable, and there is also
a vessel of 515 tons, employed in the timber trade with
Canada. In 1842, 646 vessels entered inwards, and 365
cleared outwards, two of which were in the foreign
trade. The custom-house department is under the
superintendence of a collector, comptroller, and two
tide-waiters; and the excise-office has a collector, two
clerks, three supervisors, and fifty officers. The har-
bour is sheltered on the north and south by lofty hills,
and on the south-east by the isle of Devar, with which
it is joined, on the south side, by a bar of sand nearly
half a mile in length, which is visible at low water, and,
by intercepting the violence of the waves, renders the
anchorage peculiarly safe. The entrance is from the
north, by a narrow channel of great depth ; and the
harbour, which has generally from three to fifteen
fathoms water, has two boldly projecting piers, of which
the eastern, called the new pier, is of recent formation.
The quays are well adapted for the loading and unloading
of vessels, and every requisite accommodation has been
provided, for facilitating the trade of the port. The
market, which is on Thursday, is amply supplied with
grain and agricultural produce; and fairs are held for
cattle, horses, and various kinds of merchandise, at
Whitsuntide, Lammas, Michaelmas, and Candlemas.
In the market-place, which is in the centre of the main
street, is an ancient cross, richly sculptured with foliage,
and supposed to have been brought from Iona.
By a charter of William III., the town, which was
previously a burgh of barony, was erected into a royal
burgh, and the government vested in a provost, two
bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and twelve coun-
cillors, who are elected under the provisions of the
Municipal Reform act. The burgesses have no privi-
leges beyond the freedom of carrying on trade within
the burgh ; the fees of admission are, to a stranger, as
a merchant burgess, £3. 3., and as a craftsman, £2. 2.,
and to the sons, sons-in-law, or apprentices of burgesses,
one-half of those sums. The magistrates hold courts for
civil matters, to any amount ; in criminal cases, their
jurisdiction is confined to misdemeanours and offences
against the police, in which they are assisted by the
town-clerk, who acts as their assessor. The town-house,
situated in the. central part of the town, is a neat build-
ing, with a handsome spire, and contains two council-
chambers for the transaction of public business, and a
spacious hall in which the courts are held. Above these,
is the prison for debtors, consisting of two apartments ;
and on the ground-floor, are three cells for criminals,
all badly ventilated and lighted, and of which two are
173
damp. The burgh is associated with Ayr, Irvine, In-
verary, and Oban, in returning a member to the im-
perial parliament ; the parliamentary boundaries extend
beyond those of the royalty of the burgh, including the
populous villages of Dalintober and Dalaruin. The
number of householders of the rent of £10 and up-
wards, within the royalty, is 165, of whom seventy- four
are burgesses ; and beyond the royalty, but within the
parliamentary boundary, forty.
The parish forms a portion of the peninsula of
Cantyre, including the ancient parishes of Kilkivan,
Kilmichael, and Kilchonsland, which were united
about the time of the Reformation. It is bounded
on the east by the sound of Kilbrandon, and on
the west by the Atlantic Ocean, and is about thirteen
miles in length, and from six to ten in breadth,
comprising an area of 87-§ square miles ; two-thirds
of the land are arable, and the remainder pasture,
heath, and waste. The surface is diversified with hills,
rising both from the north and south shores of the
bay of Campbelltown, and varying from 800 to 1000 feet
in height. Of these, the highest is Bengaillin, about
a mile from the town, and commanding an extensive
prospect, embracing, to the north-west, the islands of
Islay, Jura, and Gigha ; to the north-east, the isles of
Arran, Bute, and Cowal, with the Frith of Clyde ; to
the south, the lowlands as far as Loch Ryan, with
Ailsa Craig ; and to the south-west, the coast of Ireland,
with the isle of Rathlin. Between the town and the
bay of Machrihanish, which indents the western shore,
is a tract of level ground, about four miles in length,
and nearly three in breadth, called the Laggan of Can-
tyre, having an elevation of nearly forty feet above
the sea, and of which the soil has the appearance of
being alluvial. The soil of the parish is extremely
various, but, in many parts, of considerable fertility;
the principal crops are, bear, oats, barley, potatoes,
which are raised in large quantities, and beans. The
system of agriculture is improved, and much of the
waste land has been drained ; the hills, of which some
are cultivated on the acclivities, afford pasturage for
black-cattle and sheep, the latter of the native breed.
The substrata are chiefly sandstone, limestone, and
ironstone, and the rocks are composed of mica-slate,
porphyry, greywacke, and trap ; some beautiful varieties
of green, brown, and other porphyry, occur on the
island of Devar. Coal is found within three miles of
the town, but of inferior quality ; and there are seve-
ral mines in operation, formerly wrought by a com-
pany, for the supply of the town, to which the coal
is conveyed by a canal. Several plantations, chiefly of
ash, elm, plane, larch, and Scotch and spruce firs,
are in a very thriving state.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Cantyre, of which Camp-
belltown is the seat, and the synod of Argyll ; there
are two ministers, of whom one officiates in the Gaelic,
and the other in the English language. The minister
of the first charge, which is the Gaelic, has a stipend
of £146. 15. 10., whereof about one-third is paid from
the exchequer, with a manse, and three glebes, valued
at £92 per annum ; and the minister of the second
charge has a stipend of the same amount, with a
glebe valued at £26. 10. per annum ; patron, the Duke
of Argyll. The Gaelic church, which had been, for some
CAMP
CAMP
time, in a dilapidated condition, was rebuilt in 1803,
and contains 2000 sittings ; the English church, which
occupies the site of the ancient castle of the lords
of the Isles, was built in 1780, and contains 1'200
sittings. A chapel of ease has been proposed for the vil-
lage of Coalhill, near the town ; and in the burgh are
places of worship for members of the Free Church,
the Relief and Secession Synods, Independents, and
Roman Catholics. The parochial school is consolidated
with that of the burgh ; the master, who is appointed
by the town- council, subject to the approval of the
presbytery, has a salary of £34. 4. 4., paid by the heri-
tors and the burgh, together with a house adapted for
the reception of boarders, and an excellent, garden ;
his fees average about £150 per annum, out of which
he has to pay an assistant. Miss Campbell, of Govan
Bank, built two schools at Dalintober, at an expense
of £1150; and for their endowment, she bequeathed
to the Kirk Session, the sum of £4600. The same
lady left £600 to the female school of industry, £300
towards the support of a parochial missionary, £300
to the Sabbath schools, £600 to the Female Benevolent
Society, and £500 to the poor of the parish.
CAMPBELTON, a village, chiefly in the parish of
Ardersier, county of Inverness, 6 miles (W.) from
Nairn ; containing, with the garrison of Fort George,
1200 inhabitants, of whom 944 are in the village. This
place, which is indebted for its origin to the esta-
blishment of the garrison, takes its name from the
Campbells, earls of Cawdor, upon whose lands it is
built, on the eastern shore of a bay in the Moray
Frith. The houses are neat, and there are numerous
well-stored shops, containing wares and merchandise
of all kinds for the supply of the garrison ; a sub-
scription library has been established, and there are
several good inns. Many of the inhabitants are em-
ployed in the herring-fishery, which is carried on with
spirit and success ; and not less than sixteen boats, of
twelve tons burthen, sail to the fishing-stations of
Helmsdale and Burgh-Head, each boat taking, during the
season, about 200 barrels, valued at 13 shillings each.
The fishermen of Campbelton are also employed in
the white-fishery off the coast ; the fish usually taken
are, haddock, cod, skate, whiting, flounders, and occa-
sionally turbot, halibut, and soles ; the produce, after
supplying the parish, is sent to Inverness, for which
purpose, during the summer, there are lightly-built
and fast-sailing vessels. A little coasting trade is also
carried on, in which three vessels of 100 tons, be-
longing to a family in the village, are employed, chiefly
in the trade with Sunderland. The post-office has a
daily delivery ; and facility of communication is af-
forded by the great road from Inverness to Aberdeen,
and the military road from Fort George to Perth,
which pass through the village ; and by a ferry from
Fort George to Chanonry Point, in the county of Ross.
A court for the recovery of small debts is held every
month ; and there is a fair, called the Lammas Market,
annually on the 12th of August, for lambs, sheep,
milch cows, a few horses, cheese, and various wares,
and for the hiring of servants.
Fort George was erected soon after the Rebellion in
the year 1745, with a view to keep the Highlanders
in subjection, and was completed under the superin-
tendence of General Skinner, at a cost of more than
174
£160,000; it is situated on the point of Ardersier,
which projects far into the Frith, and commands the
entrance of that channel. The buildings, which occupy
an area of fifteen acres, form an irregular polygon,
defended by six bastions, each named after some dis-
tinguished general of the time, and mounting, respec-
tively, 18 twenty- four-pounders, 25 eighteen, 22 twelve,
and 4 six-pounders. On three sides, the ramparts
rise almost from the sea, which, at any time, may be
let into the ditch ; and on the land side, the fortress
is defended by a broad ditch, a covered way and glacis,
two lunettes, and a raveline mounting eight twelve-
pounders. The north and south curtains are bomb-proof,
and contain each twenty-seven apartments, fifty-two feet
in length, and twelve feet wide ; the grand magazine,
which is also bomb-proof, will hold 2472 barrels of gun-
powder, and at the eastern extremity are two smaller
magazines, containing ammunition for immediate use.
The barracks, which are towards the land point, com-
prise apartments for a governor, lieutenant-governor,
fort-major, chaplain, eight field-officers, 22 captains,
56 subalterns and 2090 non-commissioned officers and
privates ; there are also a chapel, brewhouse, bake-
house, and an inn, within the walls. The fortress is now
garrisoned generally by depots of foreign regiments,
and, at present, contains only about 256 inhabitants.
CAMPMUIR, a hamlet, in the parish of Kettins,
county of Forfar ; containing 45 inhabitants.
CAMPSIE, a parish, in the county of Stirling,
3| miles (E.) from Strathblane; containing, with the
villages of Birdstone, Haugh-head, Lennoxtown, Milton,
Torrance, and the Clachan, 6402 inhabitants. This
parish, previously to the year 1649, was much larger
than at present, and, on account of its isolated situa-
tion, arising from its natural boundaries, was distin-
guished by many peculiarities and singular customs ;
but, at the period named, its southern extremity was
erected into a new parish called Baldernock, and its
eastern extremity united to Kilsyth. It now extends
in length about seven miles, and six in breadth, com-
prising 13,500 Scottish acres, of which about 6000 are
hills, 6000 arable, 400 wood and plantations, and the
remainder lakes, &c. The surface consists of two
ranges of hills, and the intermediate valley, running
nearly from east to west ; the highest eminences are
those forming the northern boundary, called Campsie
fells, rising, at their greatest elevation, 1500 feet
above the sea, and intersected with numerous glens of
exquisite beauty, exhibiting a profusion of romantic
scenery on their rocky sides. In that called Kirktoun
glen, artificial terraces have been cut, shrouded with
ferns, lichens, and all kinds of wild flowers ; and
numbers of persons resort to it in fine weather, to
witness the variety and grandeur of the prospect. The
southern range, called the Brae, is a continuation of
the braes of Killpatrick, and rises about 700 feet. The
valley is covered throughout with a succession of un-
dulations, reaching to the precipitous sides of the
northern fells, whence several burns pour down, three
of which, uniting their streams, form the river Glassert,
which, after traversing a considerable extent of ground
in the parish, falls into the Kelvin near Kirkintilloch.
Near the base of the fells, which are clothed to
their summit with rich verdant pasture, the soil is
chiefly a light clayey earth, and the subsoil tilly, and
CAMP
C A N I
exceedingly tenacious ; the hillocks and undulations in
the strath are frequently a light earth, resting on
sand and gravel, and in several places loamy. The
southern brae is all under tillage, with the exception
of about 400 acres of heath, and 200 of wood, and
has a clayey soil, on its side towards the Kelvin, which
is succeeded by lower grounds of a sandy, gravelly,
alluvial, and mossy character, reaching to the neigh-
bourhood of the river. On account of the proximity
of the parish to Glasgow, dairy produce forms a leading
object ; other branches of husbandry, however, share
much attention, and all kinds of grain, pulse, and
green crops are raised, under the best system of ma-
nagement, and of excellent quality. The Ayrshire cows
are used exclusively ; the cattle grazed on the hills,
are mostly West Highlanders, and the sheep the black-
faced breed. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £1S,140. The mineral contents of the district are
extensive and valuable, consisting of most of the va-
rieties of the trap rocks, and coal, with the layers
of which latter, beds of freestone, aluminous clay-slate,
ironstone of the argillaceous kind, and limestone, are
found alternating. About 35,000 tons of coal, and
large quantities of lime, are every year produced ; alum
is obtained from a schist found in the coal strata,
and ironstone has been partially wrought lately, and
is abundant. The plantations comprising larch, Scotch
fir, spruce, sycamore, oak, and ash, have been much
increased since the close of the last century, espe-
cially in the vicinity of Woodhead. In the same
neighbourhood, stands Lennox Castle, on the acclivity
of the south brae, 500 feet above the level of the
strath, and commanding extensive views. This splendid
mansion was finished in 1841, in the Norman style,
and nearly opposite is situated the mansion of Craig-
barnet, and a little eastward that of Balancleroch ;
besides which, the parish contains those of Kincaid,
Antermony, Glorat House, and Auchinreoch.
The inhabitants are partly employed in weaving, and
in mills for cotton-printing, and bleachfields, the ope-
rations of which have been greatly extended, on account
of the large supply of coal and of water. At Lennox-
mill, employing 700 persons, every description of cotton
fabrics is printed, from the coarsest to the finest,
and about 250,000 pieces are every year finished, partly
for home use, and partly for exportation. The other
establishments are, Clachan bleachfield, commenced in
1819, for preparing various kinds of muslins for ex-
portation ; Kincaid, established in 1785, for bleaching
and printing cottons; Lillyburn, commenced in 1831,
for the printing of linen and calico shawls and hand-
kerchiefs ; and Glenmill, begun in January, 1831, chiefly
for bleaching book muslins. There are also works for
the manufacture of alum, copperas, prussiate of potash,
Prussian blue, &c. A turnpike-road from Strathblane
to Kilsyth passes through the parish, from east to
west, and another crosses this, and runs over the
fells, from Glasgow to Fintry and Kippen ; the Glas-
gow road, also, to Stirling, by Kilsyth, passes the
south-east corner, and the Forth and Clyde canal on
its southern extremity. The parish is in the presbytery
of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the
patronage of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is
£2S5. 3. 7-, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £17. 15.
per annum. The church formerly stood at the Clachan,
175
but the present edifice was built in 1829, on a far more
convenient spot, at Lennoxtown ; it is a handsome
structure, capable of accommodating 1550 persons, and
cost nearly £8000. There is a place of worship for the
Relief persuasion. The parochial school affords instruc-
tion in all the ordinary branches of education ; the
master has a salary of £30, with £18 fees, and the in-
terest of £2/0, left by Robert Blair, Esq., of Glasgow.
Two other parochial schools are supported by the heri-
tors, at Craighead and Torrance, the master of the
former of which, in addition to the salary of £41. 5. 11.,
receives £20 per annum from Messrs. Inglis, who, in
connexion with Mr. Lennox, have rebuilt the premises
on a much larger scale. There are also two subscription
libraries. The remains of two forts, of native construc-
tion, are visible at the base of the Campsie fells ; and
Roman urns, and coins of Elizabeth, James I., and
Charles I., have occasionally been dug up.
CANISBAY, a parish, in the county of Caithness;
including the island of Stroma, a small part of the late
quoad sacra parish of Keiss, and the detached town-
ships of Auckingill, Duncansbay, Freswick, Gills, Huna,
Brabster, and East and West Mey ; and containing 2306
inhabitants. The name of this place has generally been
supposed to be a corruption of the term Canute's bay,
from some Norwegian chief who arrived here ; but
others think it comes from Canna, the name of a plant
once abundant in the district. In ancient times, the
parish was portioned into several parts, in each of
which there was a religious edifice ; and at Fres-
wick, are the ruins of an old castle, called Bucholie
Castle, which is of great antiquity, and is said to have
been inhabited, in the 12th century, by a Danish noble-
man of the name of Suenus Asteilf. From certain
entries in the session records, it is probable that Oliver
Cromwell, or some of his officers, were in the parish in
the year 1652. Canisbay is situated in the north-east
corner of Scotland, and is the most remote parish in the
country ; it measures about eight miles in length, from
east to west, and its mean breadth is about six miles,
the whole containing upwards of 32,000 acres. It is
bounded on the north by the Pentland Frith, and on
the east by the German Ocean ; the coast on the north
side is in general level, but on the east bold and preci-
pitous. The chief headlands are, Grey- head, Skirsa-
head, St. John's or Mey head, and the beautiful pro-
montory of Duncansbay head, which last is about two
miles in circumference, and is indented with several
large ravines. Near it are two rocks, surrounded by
the sea, called the Stacks of Duncansbay ; they are of
oval form, and shoot up fantastically to a great height,
attracting, in the spring and summer, swarms of sea-
fowl, and on the top of the larger stack, the eagle has
its habitation. The bays are, Freswick ha]', on the
east, and Duncansbay and Gills bay, on the north,
the beaches of which consist principally of sand and
shells. In the interior, the land is remarkably level, the
ward or watch hill being the only considerable elevation,
rising about 300 feet above the sea ; the loch of Mey,
in circumference about a mile and a half, is the sole
loch in the parish, and among the few small streams,
the burn of Freswick is the principal.
Heath and deep moss, with a little coarse grass, cover
nine-tenths of the surface ; and the soil, in the culti-
vated grounds, consists in general of a light black loam,
C ANO
C A NO
with an intermixture of moss. The moor and pasture
comprehend about 2S,S00 acres, in a state of undivided
common, and open to the cattle and sheep of all the
parishioners ; the arable land consists of about 3200
acres, the produce of which is bear and oats, with pota-
toes, turnips, &c. The sheep and cattle, with the ex-
ception of a few reared by the large proprietors, are the
native breed, in its worst and most deteriorated state ;
agriculture is at a very low ebb, the rotation system
being unknown among the people in general, and the
crops, for want of manure and good husbandry, are of a
very inferior kind. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £3675. The prevailing rock is red sandstone ;
there is also some greywacke, and a tolerable supply of
limestone is obtained. The three chief proprietors have
all good mansions ; that of the Earl of Caithness is
Barrogil Castle, an ancient and venerable pile, and the
two others are Freswick and Brabster Houses. Several
boats are regularly engaged in obtaining lobsters for the
London market, and there are thirty large boats em-
ployed in the herring-fishery, the value of the fisheries
being estimated at £1650 per annum. Cod are plentiful
on the coast, and coal-fish, or, as they are here called,
Cuddens, at certain seasons, are taken in immense quan-
tities, and not only serve the poorer classes for food,
but supply plenty of oil for light. The people in the
parish rely principally upon fishing for their subsist-
ence : there are post-offices at Mey and Huna, the
latter of which is seventeen miles and a quarter from
Wick, and a turnpike-road runs from Thurso to Huna.
Two small fairs for the sale of horses, cattle, and swine,
are yearly held, the one in February, at Freswick, and
the other in December, at Canisbay. The ecclesiastical
affairs are subject to the presbytery of Caithness and
synod of Caithness and Sutherland ; patron, William
James John Alexander Sinclair, Esq. ; the stipend is
£205, and there is a manse, with a glebe worth £6 per
annum. The church was thoroughly repaired in 1832,
and accommodates 512 persons. A parochial school is
supported, the master of which has the maximum
salary, with the legal accommodations, and £5 fees ;
there are also two schools maintained by the Society
for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and a parochial
subscription library. About a mile and a half to the
west of Duncansbay-head, stood the celebrated John
o' Groats House, of which nothing but the site remains.
CANNA, an island of the Hebrides, forming part
of the parish of Small Isles, in the district of Mull,
county of Argyll ; and containing 255 inhabitants.
This island is about thirty miles distant from that of
Eigg, and is computed to be four miles in length, and
one in breadth, containing about 1900 acres; it is
partly high and rocky, but affords excellent pasture,
and tolerable tillage. The harbour is accounted one of
the best among the Hebrides, though difficult of ap-
proach in stormy weather, owing to the narrowness of
the entrance, and the sunken rocks that lie near it. On
the south-east side of Canna, is Sand Island, separated
by a channel which is dry at low water.
CANNESBURN, a hamlet, in the parish of New
Kilpatrick, county of Dumbarton, 1 mile (S. by E.)
from New Kilpatrick ; containing 33 inhabitants. It
is seated on the road from Glasgow to Drymen.
CANOBIE, or CANONBIE, a parish, in the county
of Dumfries, 6 miles (N.) from Longtown ; containing
176
3032 inhabitants. An ancient priory here is supposed
to have given the name to this place, Canobie being
probably derived from the Saxon Bie, or By, signifying
" a station," and thus interpreting the word " the resi-
dence of the canons." How long before the year 1165,
when a grant of land was made by William the Lion,
this religious establishment existed, is uncertain. In
the year 1533, Henry VIII. claimed it, as having be-
longed at one time, as well as the whole parish, to Eng-
land, upon which pretence he ordered hostilities to be
commenced upon the Scottish borders ; and about the
end of the reign of James V., in 1542, after the sur-
render of the Scottish army at Solway Moss, the English
soldiers, upon the same pretext, pillaged and laid in
ruins both the monastery and church. The church was
dedicated to St. Martin, and was often called the Church
of Liddel, from the river near which it stood ; in the
reign of David I., Turgot de Rossedale founded a
canonry in connexion with it, which afterwards came into
the hands of the monks at Jedburgh, but was dissolved
at the Reformation. On account of the exposure of
the parish to the English borderers, many places of de-
fence were formerly erected, the vestiges of some of
which still remain. At a place called Gill-knocky, near
the. eastward of Hollows bridge, stands the tower of
Hollows, the reputed castle of John Armstrong, a famous
chieftain in the reign of James V., and styled John of
Gill-knocky ; he was the terror of the western marches
of England, and forced the inhabitants of Cumberland,
Westmorland, and a great part of Northumberland, to
become his tributaries, or pay him annually blackmail.
Not far from Penton Linns, on the banks of the Liddel,
was the strong tower of Harelaw, formerly the residence
of Hector Armstrong, the famous freebooter, who, by
bribery, betrayed the Earl of Northumberland into the
hands of the regent Murray.
The parish is nine miles long, and six broad, and
contains 23,177 acres, 2 roods, 14 perches, of which
11,774 are in tillage, 10,522 in pasture, and SSI in
wood; it is bounded on the south and east by county
Cumberland, from which it is partly divided by the
river Liddel. The district may be considered as the low
grounds of Eskdale ; the surface, however, is uneven,
and diversified by a variety of ridges, with the exception
of the land on the banks of the Esk, which is generally
level. This river, flowing through the middle of the
parish, from north to south, receives the Liddel nearly
at the southern boundary, and falls, at the distance of
about seven miles, into the Solway Frith : along its
course, parallel with which passes the great road from
Edinburgh to London, by Langholm and Carlisle, is a
succession of the most varied scenery to be met with
in this part of Scotland. The Liddel runs between
banks beautified with natural woods and plantations,
and is especially celebrated for the beauty of its course
near Penton Linns, where the stream rushes through a
narrow channel formed by the projection of precipitous
and lofty rocks on each side, overgrown with copse-
wood. The soil, on the holm-land in the neighbour-
hood of the rivers, is chiefly light loam, and produces
early and rich crops of all kinds, being much favoured
by the shelter of a profusion of wood ; on the higher
grounds, it is mossy, wet, and clayey, but, if well limed,
produces good crops, especially in dry seasons. A large
part of this land has been brought into general cultiva-
CAPU
C A P U
tion, by draining and fencing. The sheep are the
Cheviots, the largest of which are often crossed with the
Leicester ; some of the cattle are the Teeswater, but the
Galloway breed is preferred. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £9095. Limestone, sandstone, and
coal abound, the last in hollows of the transition rocks.
There are extensive corn-mills at Hollows, near the
banks of the Esk. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject
to the presbytery of Langholm and synod of Dum-
fries ; patron, the Duke of Buccleuch ; the stipend is
£236. 12. 6., with a manse, and a glebe of twenty acres,
valued at £20 per annum. The church is an elegant
sandstone building with a tower, erected in 1822, at an
expense of £3000, and contains sittings for upwards of
1000 persons. There is a parochial school, in which
Greek, Latin, French, and all the usual branches of
education are taught, and the master of which has a
salary of £31. 6., with the legal accommodations, and
fees amounting to about £30. A subscription library,
two friendly societies, and a savings' bank, are also sup-
ported. Among the numerous ruins of defence-towers,
the most perfect and the most famed is that of Johnnie
Armstrong, sixty feet long, forty-six broad, and seventy-
two high; it has two round turrets, with loop-holes at
the east and west angles, and was, in former times, a
place of great strength. About one mile to the east of
this, are the remains of a Roman station, supposed to
be the first in the chain from Netherbie to Castle-Over,
the upper camp, in the parish of Eskdalemuir. Dr.
Russell, author of the History of Modem Europe, who
died in 1793> an<i Mr. Benjamin Bell, the celebrated
surgeon, were natives of the parish.
CANONGATE.— See Edinburgh.
CAOLVALLOCK, a hamlet, in the parish of Weem,
county of Perth ; containing 50 inhabitants.
CAPUTH, a parish, in the county of Perth ; con-
taining, with the villages of Craigie, Fungarth, Kin-
cairnie, Meikleour, and Spittalfield, 2317 inhabitants,
of whom 17S are in the village of Wester Caputh, 5 miles
(E. S. E.) from Dunkeld. This place, called in ancient
records Keapoch, was in former times the site of a
Pictish town of great strength, named, according to
Boetius, Tuline or Tulina, and the inhabitants of which,
who were very numerous, burned and deserted it, on
the approach of the Romans. It was situated at a
place called at present Inchtuthil, " the island in the
flooded stream," and is supposed to be the station de-
scribed by Tacitus, to which Agricola led his troops,
after the famous battle with Galgacus. Caputh is
mentioned in Mylne's Lives of the Bishops of Dunkeld, as
originally forming a portion of the parish of Little Dun-
keld, and as having been erected into a distinct parish,
in the year 1500, by Bishop Brown, who built, at his
own cost, a quire, with painted ceiling and glazed win-
dows, and gave, for the support of the minister, a
vicarage which had been formerly united to his see, four
acres of glebe land, and some rising ground, called the
Mute-hill, for the erection of a church. This author
also informs us, that the parish of Dowally was once a
part of Caputh, and that the same bishop built and
endowed a church in honour of St. Anne, among the
woods of the church lands of that district, in conse-
quence of having heard that the Irish language was
spoken in the Highland parts of Caputh.
The parish is situated on the northern bank of the
Vol. I.— 177
river Tay, which forms its boundary for ten miles, from
the bridge of Dunkeld, on the west, to its confluence
with the Isla, on the east ; the latter river forms its
boundary on the south-east, and the Lunan separates it,
on the north-east, from Blairgowrie. It measures about
thirteen miles in length, from east to west, and varies in
breadth from two to seven miles, comprising 16.000
acres, which form the principal part of the plain of Stor-
mont, a continuation of the vale of Strathmore, towards
the foot of the Grampians. The surface is considerably
diversified ; the portion towards the south-east is
nearly level, and consists of rich and well-cultivated
tracts, while the northern and north-western parts are
hilly, and present many beautiful varieties of Highland
scenery, enlivened by refreshing streams, traversing the
verdant dales. The river Tay, on which, as well as the
Isla, are extensive salmon-fisheries, here varies in width
from 150 to 200 yards, and is distinguished for its
striking scenery. Towards the northern boundary, the
burn of Lunan, which rises in the Grampians, falls
down a precipitous and thickly- wooded glen two or
three miles long, and reaches the loch of Craiglush ;
adjoining this, is the fine piece of water called Lows,
about two miles north-east of Dunkeld, and not far off,
is the loch of Butterstone. After passing through all
these waters, and connecting them in a chain, the Lunan
runs eastward, and falls into the Isla, seven miles from
Caputh church.
The soil, near the rivers, is a rich alluvial earth, and
is much indebted for its fertility to deposits conveyed
by the frequent overflowing of the streams ; in the lower
and level grounds, it is in general light and dry, and in
the higher parts cold and wet, though, where well cul-
tivated, very fertile. The husbandry is on a superior
footing, and excellent crops are raised ; bone manure
has been extensively applied, and, in some parts, very
beneficially as a top-dressing to the pasture. The cattle
formerly bred were the Angus dodded sort ; but these
have been latterly much improved by crosses with the
Teeswater and Ayrshire, and the sheep, which are of
various kinds, are gradually improving by the inter-
mixture of Leicester stock. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £14,426. The chief rocks are limestone
and clay-slate, and the former, which is of good quality,
has been extensively quarried for some years, and burnt
in kilns the construction of which obtained, some
time since, a premium from the Highland Society ; at
Newtyle, a quarry of dark blue slate, of firm texture,
has long been in operation, and the material is in great
demand. The mansions are, Delvine House, a plain but
pleasant residence, nearly three miles east of the church ;
Meikleour House, beautifully seated on the north bank
of the Tay ; Snaigow House, an elegant mansion in the
old baronial style, two miles north of the church ; and
Glendelvine, a modern residence, similar in style to that
of Snaigow. Cattle-fairs are held at Meikleour, on the
fourth Friday in June, the second day in July, third
Friday in August, and fourth Friday in October. The
parish is in the presbytery of Dunkeld and synod of
Perth, and in the patronage of the Crown ; the minis-
ter's stipend is £232. 15. 11., with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £22. 10. per annum. The church, built
in 1798, is a plain commodious edifice, situated on an
eminence near the southern border, and contains sittings
for 800 persons ; it has lately been extensively repaired,
2 A
CARD
CARD
and improved by the erection of a new porch at each
end. The parochial school is in the village of Spittal-
field, and affords instruction in the usual branches ; the
master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden,
and £30 fees. A savings' bank was established in 1815.
Remains exist of a Roman camp at Inchtuthil, sup-
posed to have been the station of Agricola ; it is situated
on the north-eastern part of a piece of table-land cover-
ing upwards of 200 acres, steep on all sides, and ele-
vated about sixty feet above the plain on which it stands.
It measures about 500 yards square, and the walls, now
almost levelled by the plough, were nine and a half feet
thick, and built with stones brought from a quarry two
miles distant ; on the south-eastern side, are two tumuli,
and a redoubt. There are also in the parish numerous
Druidical circles and cairns, one of the latter of which,
called Cairnmure, or the Big Cairn, is the largest in the
county, being 456 feet in circumference, and 14 feet in
height.
CARA, Argyll. — See Gigha and Cara.
CARDROSS, a parish, in the county of Dumbar-
ton ; including the villages of West Bridgend and
Renton, and the hatnlet of Geilstone-Briclge ; and con-
taining 4416 inhabitants, of whom 51 are in the hamlet
of Cardross, 3-f miles (W. N. W.) from Dumbarton, on
the road to Helensburgh. The name of Cardross is
derived from a compound word in the Celtic language,
signifying "the moorish ridge point," used in reference
to the peculiar situation and aspect of the parish. It
appears to have escaped those bloody feuds which were
formerly so common in the surrounding country, not
from any security in its position, but from the peaceful
disposition of its inhabitants, who, though sometimes
visited by predatory bands, furnished no pretext, by a
sanguinary resentment, for the renewal of hostilities.
It was the seat of the retirement of Robert Bruce, King
of Scotland, during the last years of his life, when he
frequently indulged in the pleasures of the chase. On
the first mile of the road leading from Dumbarton,
some knolly ground, covered with wood, still bears the
name of Castlehill ; and though no remains are now to
be seen of any building, it is probable that he was located
in a castle once standing here, in which he ended his
days, in 1329. The parish, which is situated on the
northern bank of the Clyde, is eight miles in extreme
length, and varies in breadth from one and a half to
three miles ; it contains about 9600 acres, of which
one-half are cultivated, and about 150 acres are under
plantation. The surface rises from the Clyde, by a
gentle ascent, till it reaches its highest elevation, at the
summits of the Kiliter and Carman, in the northern ex-
tremity of the parish, about 900 feet above the sea. The
shore is marked by the prominent headland of Ardmore,
which rises in the Clyde to a height of forty feet, and
is connected with the parish by an isthmus running
from the flat piece of land by which the rock is sur-
rounded.
The soil, on the banks of the Clyde, which is between
one and two miles wide, and in the interior, is generally
a light thin mould ; on the higher grounds, it has a
greater depth, and rests chiefly on a tilly subsoil. In
the vicinity of the vale of the river Leven, in the south-
eastern division, is a rich loam, with alluvial deposits.
On the estates of Dalquhurn and Camis-Eskan, are
plantations of larch, fir, and oak, in a flourishing state ;
178
and the lands of Mildovan, Kilmahew, Kipperminshock,
and Ardoch, have infant plantations of promising ap-
pearance. The progress of agricultural improvement,
during the present century, has been very considerable ;
much waste land has been reclaimed, and that under
cultivation has been benefited by draining and manur-
ing. The live stock consists principally of cattle and
sheep, purchased in the Highlands, and which graze
upon the extensive tracts of moorland. In the lower
parts of the parish, tillage and dairy-farming, to a great
extent, are united, the latter branch having been much
encouraged by the introduction of the best Ayrshire
cows, and by the cultivation of the most approved bul-
bous-rooted green crops. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £14,375. The prevailing rock is freestone,
which, in the eastern district, is reddish and crumbling,
but, in other places, of a light grey cast, and better
consistence, and mixed with breccia. The promontory
of Ardmore is dark red breccia, with pebbles of quartz,
and in the neighbourhood of the Kiliter range, are beds
of jasper, lying between breccia and sandstone ; in
some of the glens, limestone is found, but the sand and
magnesia with which it is mixed render it unfit for
agricultural use, although it has been occasionally
wrought to a small extent.
The mansions in the parish include the ancient houses
of Ardoch, Kilmahew, and Camis-Eskan ; the more
modern structures are, Keppoch, Ardmore, and Bloom-
hill. At Dalquhurn works, in the vicinity of Renton,
calico-printing, bleaching, and dyeing are carried on,
affording employment to between 250 and 300 persons.
There is an inconsiderable salmon-fishery on the river
Leven, and trout and salmon are taken at Ardmore and
Colgrain ; but the Yair fisheries on the Clyde, once so
celebrated, and confirmed by several royal charters, are
now almost unproductive. A fair is held on the first
Wednesday in June, for black- cattle, horses, and sheep.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery
of Dumbarton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the
minister's stipend is £155. 8. 9., with a manse, and a
glebe of the annual value of £30 ; the patronage is in
the Crown. The church, a very neat structure, was
built in 1S27, and accommodates above 800 persons.
There is a missionary station at Renton, connected with
the Established Church ; also a meeting-house belonging
to the Original Burgher Synod ; and places of worship
have been erected in the parish, in connexion with the
Free Church and Relief Synod. A parochial school is
supported, in which Latin is taught, with the usual
brandies of education ; the master has a salary of £34,
with about £20 fees, and £15 from a piece of ground,
granted in the seventeenth century, by the family of
Napier ; also five and a half bolls of barley, and the in-
terest of £100. There are two public subscription
libraries, one in Renton, containing 1000 volumes, and the
other at Geilstone, with 400 volumes ; also a Sunday-
school library, with 200 volumes. The poor have about
£220 per annum, left by Mrs. Moore, and now under the
management of the heritors and the Kirk Session. Near
Renton, stands the ancient house of Dalquhurn, the
birthplace of the celebrated Dr. Tobias Smollett, author
of many popular works ; and near the house, a Tuscan
column has been erected, which contains an elegant
Latin incription, in memory of the doctor, who died at
Leghorn, in 177 1-
CARE
CARG
CARESTON, a parish, in tbe county of Forfar,
4 miles (W. by S.) from Brechin ; containing 218 in-
habitants. This place, originally Caraldstone, of which
its present appellation is simply a contraction, derived
that name from a stone erected over the grave of Carald,
a Danish leader, who was slain here, in his flight from
the battle of Aberlemno, in the reign of Malcolm III.
The parish is about three miles in length, and one mile
in average breadth, comprising 2056 acres, of which
1422 are arable, 280 woodland and plantations, and the
remainder meadow and pasture. The surface rises in
gentle undulations, from its southern boundary, towards
the north, and, near its termination in that direction,
declines gradually to the confines of the parish of Men-
muir. The rivulet of Noran, which has its rise in the
Grampians, flows with a rapid current through the
lands, and very shortly falls into the South Esk, which
also intersects the parish, and forms part of its southern
boundary. The soil is chiefly a rich black loam, inter-
spersed with some small tracts of moor ; the chief crops
are, oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips ; the
system of agriculture is improved, and draining has
been extensively practised. The farm-buildings are
generally commodious, and on two of the farms are
threshing-mills, of which one is driven by water ; the
lands are inclosed, partly with stone dykes, and partly
with hedges of thorn. The cattle are generally of the
native black breed ; there are few sheep pastured on
the lands ; considerable attention is paid to the dairy,
and large quantities of butter and cheese are sent to the
Brechin market. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £2717.
The principal substrata are of the old red sandstone
formation, interspersed with beds of lias ; in the higher
lands, large blocks of trap rock are frequently found,
with boulders of granite, basalt, and green stone. The
plantations, which are in a thriving state, are chiefly
pine and larch, with birch, elm, beech, and Scotch and
spruce firs ; and on the demesne of Careston Castle, are
lime, ash, poplar, plane, and Spanish and horse-chesnut,
of which some have attained a considerable growth.
Careston Castle, mainly erected by one of the earls of
Crawfurd, in the fifteenth century, is a spacious man-
sion, with two boldly projecting wings, connected by a
corridor in front ; the west wing, which is the more
ancient, is supposed to have been added by one of the
Carneggy family, and the eastern by Major Skene, soon
after he purchased the property. The mansion has a
stately grandeur of appearance, and contains numerous
elegant apartments, elaborately decorated. Above the
mantel-piece in the drawing-room, are the royal arms of
Scotland, which appear to have been granted to the first
Earl of Crawfurd ; in the dining room are the armorial
bearings of the Earl of Airlie, and over what was for-
merly the grand entrance to the castle, are those of
Carneggy of Balnamoon. The ecclesiastical affairs are
under the superintendence of the presbytery of Brechin
and synod of Angus and Mearns. The minister's sti-
pend is £158. 7. 6., of which one-half is paid from the
exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £12 per
annum ; patron, the Earl of Fife. The church, erected
in 1636, and repaired in 180S, is a plain structure,
conveniently situated, and contains 200 sittings, all free.
The parochial school affords instruction to about sixty
children ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house
179
and garden, and the fees average about £12. The late
David Skene, Esq., bequeathed £250, in aid of the funds
of the Kirk Session.
CARGILL, a parish, in the county of Perth, 7|
miles (N. by E.) from Perth ; containing, with the
villages of Burreltown, Wolfhill, and Woodside, 1642
inhabitants. This place, of which the name, of Celtic-
origin, signifies a village with a church, originally fortned
a portion of the parish of Cupar- Angus, from which,
according to ancient records, it was separated prior to
the year 1514. It was for many generations the chief
seat of the family of Drummond, of whom Annabella,
daughter of Sir John Drummond, was married to
Robert III., King of Scotland, and crowned with that
monarch, at Scone, in 1390 ; she was the mother of
James I., from whom descended the royal family of
Stuart. Stobhall, the seat of the Drummonds, now
almost in a ruinous state, came into the possession of
the family by the marriage of Sir John Drummond with
Lady Mary, eldest daughter of Sir William de Montifex,
lord justiciary of Scotland. The ancient mansion, which
appears to have been built at different periods, is roman-
tically situated on a narrow tongue of land, on the banks
of the river Tay.
The parish, which is in the valley of Strathmore, is
about six miles in length, and four in average breadth ;
the surface is diversified, and bounded on the west and
north-west by the Tay, and on the north by the river Isla,
which flows into the Tay about half a mile above the
village of Cargill. The land rises, by a gradual ascent,
from the margin of the river, for nearly a mile, till it
attains an elevated plain, varied with occasional emi-
nences interspersed with small glens ; the Sidlaw hills
form the eastern boundary. The scenery is pleasingly
enriched with plantations, chiefly of Scotch fir, with
coppices of birch and oak ; the native woods, which
were formerly extensive, and afforded secure conceal-
ment to Sir William Wallace and his adherents from
the pursuit of their enemies, are greatly diminished.
The soil, along the banks of the river, and on the lower
lands, is a humid clay, but fertile, producing abundant
crops of grain, and gradually inclines, as the ground
ascends, to a rocky marl ; towards the base of the
hills, it is a light dry gravel, and, on the summit of the
elevated plain, partly loam and moorland. The system
of agriculture is in an improved state, but much yet
remains to be done. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £7786. The Tay is navigable to Perth ; it
abounds with salmon, of which there is a valuable
fishery, and with trout and pike, and is a favourite resort
for anglers; near the west end of the parish, it flows
over a rugged basaltic dyke, where it forms a pictu-
resque fall called the Linn of Campsie.
The substratum is chiefly freestone, of good quality,
and of excellent colour, which has been extensively
wrought; limestone is also found, but is not much in
operation, and rock marl of a reddish colour is abun-
dant, and might be rendered available to the improve-
ment of the moorlands in the upper parts of the parish.
The only manufacture carried on, is the weaving of
linen for the Dundee manufacturers, which affords em-
ployment to a few families. The ecclesiastical affairs
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of
Dunkeld and synod of Perth and Stirling ; the patron-
age is in the Crown, and the minister's stipend is
2 A 2
CARL
CAUL
£■224. 16., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £14.
The church is a neat and well-arranged structure, erected
in 1S32, and situated on the sloping bank of the river
Tay. There is a place of worship for members of the
Free Church. The parochial school is well attended ;
the master has a salary of £34, with a house and gar-
den, and the fees average about £15, to which Lady
Willoughby de Eresby adds £10, for teaching the poor
gratuitously. There were traces, till within the last few
years, of a Roman station and road ; but under the ex-
tension and improvements in agriculture, they have been
almost entirely obliterated. Near the Linn of Campsie,
was an ancient cell dependent on the abbey of Cupar-
Angus : but only very slight vestiges of it can be traced.
Stobhall gave the title of Baron to the earls of Perth,
who were lords Drummond and Stobhall, till the for-
feiture in 1746.
CARLAVEROCK, Dumfries. — See Caerlave-
ROCK.
CARLOPS, a village, in the parish of Linton,
county of Peebles ; containing 153 inhabitants. This
village, which is pleasantly situated, is irregularly built
on the banks of a rivulet falling into the North Esk ;
it is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in weav-
ing cotton for the manufacturers of Glasgow and
Paisley. Coal and lime are wrought in the immediate
neighbourhood. Carlops is a popular abbreviation of
Carting's Loups, localities in the vicinity so named in
allusion to acts of a witch of former times, who is said
to have furnished to Allan Ramsay the character of
Mause in the Gentle Shepherd, the scenery of which
poem is in the neighbourhood. Near the village is a
rock of freestone, impending over a narrow glen ; it is
called Harbour Craig, and, in this sequestered place,
has a strikingly romantic appearauce.
CARLUKE, a parish, in the Upper ward of the
county of Lanark; including the villages of Braid-
wood, Kilcadzow, and Yieldshields ; and containing
4802 inhabitants, of whom 2090 are in the village of
Carluke, 5 miles (N. N. W.) from Lanark. The name
appears to have been derived from the word Caer, sig-
nifying " a hill," and Luac, " Luke," in reference to the
dedication of the church, and to the elevated site of the
parish. The first historical traces of the district are
connected with the reign of David I., when the founder
of the Lockhart family, whose descendant is still the
principal heritor, came into Scotland with some other
Norman families, and settled here. The lands of Kirk-
ton, in the parish, anciently belonged to the abbey of
Kelso, and were erected into a barony in 1662, by
Charles II., in favour of Walter Lockhart, a cadet of the
family of Wicketshavv, at that time the proprietors. By
a charter of Robert I., that monarch granted to the
monks of Lesmahago ten merks yearly from the re-
venue of his mills at Mauldslie, in Carluke, for support-
ing the expense of lights at the tomb of St. Macute ;
and in a subsequent charter of the 8th of March, 1315,
ten merks yearly were bestowed upon the same monks,
from the mills, to supply eight wax lights for the tomb
on Sundays and festivals. In this reign, also, the
church, with all its rights, was given by the king to
the monks of Kelso, who performed its duties by a
curate, and continued in the possession of its revenues
till the Reformation.
The parish is about eight miles long, from east to
180
west, and about four and a half broad, containing
15,360 acres; it is bounded on the south-west by the
Clyde, and on the west by Garrion Gill. The surface is
considerably diversified, consisting of level ground, ac-
clivities, hills, and valleys, clothed in many parts with
luxuriant pasture, and ornamented with picturesque
scenery, interspersed with numerous neat and com-
fortable cottages, and elegant mansions, and enlivened
and irrigated by the beautiful meanderings of the Clyde.
Close to this river is a long narrow tract of sloping
ground of rich quality, after which the land rises in an
easterly direction, 400 or 500 feet above the sea. From
the highest point of this land, along which runs a ridge
of sandstone, a level is continued as far as the village,
terminating in an extensive hill called the Law of
Mauldslie ; and at the back of the village, the surface
again rises towards the east, and terminates in a wild
moor. The principal hills are, Kilcadzow, Lee, King's,
and Mauldslie, the last of which is the most lofty, rising
upwards of 800 feet above the level of the sea. The
most interesting view of the district is from the Lanark
and Glasgow road, on the opposite side of the Clyde,
from which point are seen the banks of the river,
adorned with fruit and forest trees, and the numerous
rills issuing from the concealed and romantic glens and
ravines, and eventually falling into the Clyde.
In the neighbourhood of the river, the soil is a rich
loam ; generally, it is various ; in some parts, light and
sandy, and famed for its large crops of apples and pears.
The whole rests on a subsoil of clay, of widely different
appearance and quality ; grain to a large amount is
produced, and potatoes, turnips, and hay are likewise
raised. The system of husbandry here followed, on
account of the peculiar character of the soil and other
circumstances, is somewhat different from that gene-
rally used in other districts. The rotation of crops is
not much approved ; the course preferred, except upon
the rich tracts near the Clyde, is to convert the land into
permanent pasture, breaking it up only every fifth or
sixth year for a crop of oats. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £13,437- The rocks consist of lime-
stone, sandstone, and ironstone, which, with various
kinds of coal and clay, are found in large quantities ;
the limestone, with one exception, all lies under the
coal, which latter is quarried to a very great extent, and
is of excellent quality. Between the coal and limestone,
the beds of sandstone occur, which, with numerous
layers of freestone, supply the best materials for build-
ing ; a ridge of trap runs eastward, from Hillhead to
Bashaw, and quartz and agate are both found in the
old red sandstone. One of the chief mansions is Mauld-
slie Castle, built in 1793, by the Earl of Hyndford, an
elegant structure, ornamented with turrets, and situated
in a well-wooded park, through which the- Clyde flows
for about a mile. The mansion of Milton-Lockhart,
lately built, stands upon a point of land projecting into
the valley of the Clyde, and beautifully skirted with
deep glens and thick woods ; the proprietor has built
a bridge of three arches over the river, after the model
of Bothwell bridge. Braidwood House stands on an
eminence above the same vale, and is a handsome and
commodious structure. Carluke was erected in 1662
into a burgh of barony, under the name of Kirkstyle,
with the privilege of holding a weekly market, and a
fair twice in the year; a tax of sixpence in the pound,
CAR M
CAR, M
nn house-rent, is levied for the support of constables,
and for cleaning and lighting the streets. The popula-
tion of the town, a few years ago, was insignificant ; but
there is now a variety of good shops, and a post-office
has been established under Lanark. The inhabitants of
the parish are chiefly employed in agriculture, and in
quarrying freestone, limestone, ironstone, and coal :
fairs are held, one on the 21st May, and another on
the 31st October, at which there is a very considerable
traffic in milch cows. The Stirling and Carlisle turn-
pike-road, and the road between Glasgow and Carn-
wath, run through the parish.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the pres-
bytery of Lanark and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the
patronage is exercised by Sir N. M. Lockhart, Bart.,
and the minister's stipend is £"262, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £30 per annum. The church, which is
a substantial building, containing 1000 sittings, was
built in 1799, at an expense of £1000. There are
places of worship for members of the Relief and Asso-
ciate Synods ; also a parochial school, in which Latin is
taught, with all the usual branches of education, and
the master of which has a salary of £34, and £50 fees,
with a house and garden. A parochial library was
founded in 1S27, and a society for the promotion of
useful knowledge in 1S36; there is also an agricultural
society, instituted in 1833, for the purpose of encou-
raging improvements in the breed of cattle. The great
Roman road, through Clydesdale, to the wall of Anto-
ninus, passed through the parish ; not far from it, at
Cairney Mount and at Law, several coffins have been
found, constructed of large stones, and containing urns
and ashes. Flint arrow-heads, hatchets, and numerous
coins, both silver and gold, of Roman origin, have
been also found, at Burnhead and Castlehill. In a dell
in the parish, is a very ancient tower called Hallbar,
fifty-two feet high, and twenty-four feet square on the
outside, having a vault beneath, and three apartments,
the uppermost of which has an arched roof; it is sup-
posed, from mention of it in a deed dated 16S5, to
have been attached to the barony of Braidwood. At
Hang-hill, near Mauldslie Castle, is an old burial-
ground of several acres in extent, covered with large
trees sixty or seventy feet high, and in which the two
last earls of Hyndford were interred. On the estate of
Milton-Lockhart, part of an ancient fort still remains,
in which the celebrated William Wallace once found
refuge from the pursuit of his enemies. Major-General
Roy, the celebrated engineer, and author of a standard
work on Roman Antiquities, was a native of Carluke.
CARMICHAEL, a parish, in the Upper ward of
the county of Lanark, 5 miles (S. E.) from Lanark,
containing S74 inhabitants. This place derives its name
from St. Michael, to whom its first church was dedi-
cated. The remains of antiquity of which historical
use can be made, are very few ; in the south-west
corner of the parish are vestiges of a camp and
military station, and a few years ago, a large coffin
constructed of sandstone was found, but destitute of
any mark to guide opinion as to its probable origin.
On the summit of the lofty mountain of Tinto, is a
cairn or heap of stones ; and in some parts, are stone
crosses, all of which point out the places of military
occupation and engagement, concerning the particular
facts of which nothing determinate is on record. The
181
ancient and illustrious family of Carmichael occupy the
most prominent place in the civil history of the
parish : one of its members, John, second Lord Car-
michael, born in 1672, was created Earl of Hyndford
in 1701, and filled a succession of honourable and
important offices to the time of his death, which took
place on his estate here.
The length of the parish, from south-west to north-
east, is six miles, and its extreme breadth nearly five
miles; it contains about 11,G30 imperial acres, and is
bounded on the north by the Clyde river, from its
confluence with Douglas water to Mill-hill, and inter-
sected by the roads from Carlisle to Stirling, and
Edinburgh to Ayr. The surface presents numerous
irregularities, consisting of hill and valley, breaks, and
sweeping undulations, crowned, in the south-eastern
part, by the lofty and celebrated mountain of Tinto,
which rises to an elevation of about 2400 feet. This
majestic hill, the name of which is said to signify
"the hill of fire," from the fires formerly kindled upon
it, commands an interesting and extensive view of the
lower elevations of Carmichael, Druinalbin, Whitecastle,
Crossridge, and Stonehill hills, all in the parish, the
ground gradually sinking to the northern extremity.
The climate is cold; and the surface is covered, in
many parts, with poor pasture, and only in the highly
cultivated grounds has an agreeable aspect. The soil,
in the vicinity of the Clyde, is thin and sandy ; in other
parts, a good deep loam, but in the arable districts,
generally damp and clayey, resting upon an impervious
till or ferruginous clay, with a considerable mixture
of marine stones. The number of acres (Scotch) under
cultivation is, 4702 arable, and 3S15 pasture ; 735 acres
are plantations, which consist of oak, ash, elm, plane,
beech, alder, poplar, birch, and horse-chesnut. The
crops generally raised are, oats, barley, bear, peas, pota-
toes, turnips, rye-grass, and meadow hay, the first of
which greatly predominates ; the cattle are of the Ayr-
shire breed, and the sheep are the black-faced, with a
few Cheviots. The system of agriculture is excellent,
and numerous improvements have been introduced of
late years ; the rateable annual value of the parish is
£52S0.
The prevailing rock is the old red sandstone, which
is good for building houses or fences, and is abundant
in the hills of Carmichael, Whitecastle, and Drumalbin ;
felspar porphyry, in some places, lies near the sand-
stone, and in the Crossridge hill is a stratum of clay-
slate, passing into greywacke slate. Blocks of quartz
are sometimes seen, exposed by the action of the
streams ; and blocks of gneiss have been found, de-
posited in alluvial soil, whither it is supposed they
had been carried by the violence of the rivers. There
are quarries of limestone and sandstone. Carmichael
House, an ancient and magnificent baronial residence,
for many generations the seat of the family of the
same name, is encompassed by aged and lofty trees,
and extensive grounds and plantations, which were
greatly improved by John, Earl of Hyndford. The
mansion of Eastend, comparatively a modem structure,
is elegant and commodious. There is a tan-work in
the parish, in a prosperous state; also an establish-
ment for the currying of leather, which is carried on
with considerable profit. At Carmichael Mill, is a
foundry, which supplies most of the iron-work for
CARM
C A R M
threshing-mills and other machinery used in the parish ;
and there are thirty hands employed as weavers. The
ecclesiastical affairs are under the direction of the
presbytery of Lanark and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ;
the patronage is exercised by Sir W. Carmichael An-
struther, Bart., and the minister's stipend is £225.
The church, a cruciform building, erected in 1750, is
in good repair, and accommodates between 400 and
500 persons ; the manse was built at the same time,
and considerably enlarged some years ago, and is sup-
plied with a glebe valued at £20 per annum. There is
a parochial school, in which are taught the classics,
French, and mathematics, with all the usual branches
of education ; the salary is £32, with more than the
legal accommodations, and fees of about £26. S. Another
school, at Ponfeigh, is supported partly by the heritors ;
and there is a savings'-bank, established in IS 14.
CARMUNNOCK, a parish, in the Lower ward of
the county of Lanark ; containing 717 inhabitants, of
whom 390 are in the village, 5 miles (S.) from Glasgow.
The name of this place is supposed to have been derived
from the compound Gaelic word Caer-mannock, signifying
" the monk's fort." The remains of antiquity here
bear testimony to the settlement and military opera-
tions of the Romans ; vestiges of a military road and
camp, are still to be seen on the estate of Castlemilk,
and pieces of ancient armour, with a variety of utensils,
have been found. In the reign of William the Lion,
the manor was held by Henry, son of Anselm, who
assumed the name of Henry of " Cormanock." Some
time before the year 11S9, he granted the church to
the monks of Paisley, with half a-carucate of land,
and a right of common, and directed that his remains,
and those of his wife, should be interred in the mo-
nastery. The church was held by the monks till the
Reformation. The parish is about four miles long,
from north-east to south-west, and averages about two
and a half in breadth ; it contains 2810 Scotch acres, of
which 2400 are arable, and under a regular system of
cultivation, 250 wood, and 106 pasture, the remainder
being roads, &c. The surface is considerably elevated,
and exhibits a succession of hill and dale, varied with
extensive and flourishing plantations, and enlivened by
the beautiful meanderings of the river Cart, on the
western boundary of the parish, which here borders on
Renfrewshire. From the summit of Cathkin-hill, near
the eastern boundary, at an elevation of nearly 500 feet
above the sea, the prospect embraces parts of sixteen
counties, the nearer group consisting of the city of
Glasgow, with its surrounding villages, the towns of
Rutherglen and Paisley, and the vale of Clyde, from
Hamilton to Dumbarton. The parish abounds with
springs, and there are five public wells of good water ;
but the only river running through it is a small stream
called the Kittoch.
The soil, which is generally uniform, consists of good
earth, about six or seven inches deep, and resting upon
a superior whinstone rock, which extends throughout
the parish. In some spots, it is more moist and clayey,
with a retentive bottom, yet yielding excellent crops
when well drained and manured ; in a few places, it is
considerably mixed with sand, and too much impo-
verished to be applied to any use but that of common
pasture. Crops of all kinds are raised, and, on account
of the highly cultivated state of the soil, are of the
182
highest order ; and the greatest encouragement is given
to dairy-farming, both for the superior profit it brings
to the tenant, and for the manure. The cows are all
of the Ayrshire breed ; many improvements have taken
place in agriculture within the last few years, and
furrow-draining with tiles has been extensively practised.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £5511.
There is a considerable quarry of freestone, of good
quality; and on the estate of Castlemilk, excellent
limestone and ironstone are found, the latter of which
has been partially wrought. The village population are
chiefly hand-loom weavers ; seven annual fairs are
held, some of which are for the sale of horses and
cows. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the pres-
bytery of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ;
patron, J. S. S. Stuart, Esq. An excellent manse has
been lately built, to which there is a glebe valued at £19
per annum; and the stipend is £152. 17. 6., of which
£39. 10. 10. are received from the exchequer. The
church, which is situated in the middle of the village,
was built in 1767, and repaired in 1838 ; it is a neat
and convenient structure, and seats about 450 persons.
There is a dissenters' place of worship ; also a paro-
chial school, in which the usual branches of a plain
education are taught, and the master of which has the
maximum salary, and about £32 fees, with a house
and garden. An old thorn-tree here, is much regarded,
as marking out the- spot from which Mary, Queen of
Scots, was a spectator of the defeat of her army at the
battle of Langside.
CARMYLE, a village, in the parish of Old Monk-
land, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 4-§ miles
(S. E. by E.) from Glasgow ; containing 238 inhabitants.
This village, which is remarkable for its beautiful situ-
ation, and fine southern aspect, is seated on the north
side of the Clyde, and owes its origin to the establish-
ment of a muslin manufactory, about the year 174 1, by
Mr. Mackenzie, a merchant of Glasgow.
CARMYLIE, a parish, in the county of Forfar,
6 miles (W. by N.) from Arbroath ; containing, with
the hamlet of Graystone, 1107 inhabitants. The name
is supposed to be derived from a Celtic word, signify-
ing "the top of a high rocky place," which description
answers to a castle formerly standing here. At Car-
buddo, not far from the parish, are the remains of a
camp, indicating the occupation of the ground, in
ancient times, by the Romans, who are said to have
reduced the forts of Carmylie and Carnegie in the year
139. At a very early period, the lands belonged to the
abbey of Aberbrothock, whence the monks came to
perform divine service at a chapel here, more ancient
than the abbey, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and called
in old writings, " Our Lady's chapel of Carmylie ;" its
site is occupied by the present church. The parish is
about six miles long, and its mean breadth three miles ;
it is bounded by portions of eight parishes, and forms a
part of the range of the Sidlaw hills, exhibiting a series
of acclivities, which are cultivated throughout, and rise
200 feet above the lowest ground in the parish. These
hills are nearly all of equal height, and are about 5S0 feet
above the sea, commanding, on one side, a beautiful and
extensive prospect of the Grampian mountains, and, on
the other, of the German Ocean and the coast of Fife,
and, sometimes, the Lammermoor hills. The only
stream of any note is the Elliot or Elot, which rises in a
CAR M
CARN
moss called Diltymoss, and, after a course of about
eight miles, falls into the sea at Arbirlot.
The soil most prevalent is a dark rich-looking mould,
which receives its hue, partly from a mixture of moss,
and partly from moisture ; a light dry soil is found on
some of the higher slopes, and in the valleys near the
streams is a rich fertile mould, with alluvial deposits.
There are about 200 acres of moss, much moor, and
355 acres of plantation, consisting of Scotch and spruce
fir, larch, and the ordinary kinds of hard-wood ; the crops
are, wheat, barley, oats, turnips, potatoes, hay, and peas.
Great improvements have been made in husbandry
within the last half century, by the conversion of pas-
ture into arable land, by draining marshes and mosses,
and reclaiming wastes ; also by inclosures, raising good
farm-buildings, and introducing the best system of cul-
tivation. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£892S. The subsoil is chiefly a stiff retentive clay,
requiring frequent and deep draining; and the rock
most common, especially in the higher lands, is the
red or grey sandstone, covered with the whinstone called
scurdy. At Conansythe, a large quantity of steatite has
been found, of red hue, variegated with white veins, and
suited to the manufacture of superior porcelain. There
are also several good quarries in the parish, regularly
worked, the stone and slate of which are suited for
pavement, and for columns, balusters, and various other
ornaments in buildings, and are sent to all the large
towns in Scotland, and to London ; the slate is of every
size, colour, and texture, and many pieces of it, beauti-
fully variegated with spots, when polished, imitate a
fine marble.
The parish contains two convenient and elegant man-
sions, built of the native sandstone. That of Guynd is
situated on the north bank of the Elot river, and orna-
mented with several beautiful plantations ; the other,
which stands on high ground, commands an interest-
ing view of the vales of the Lunan and the Brothock.
The population has greatly increased within the present
century, owing to the manufacture of coarse linen, such
as sheetings, dowlas, Osnaburghs, &c, and to the large
number of hands employed in the quarries. A yearly
cattle-market is held about the end of April, or begin-
ning of May. The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish
are directed by the presbytery of Arbroath and synod
of Angus and Mearns. There is a good manse, built in
1S20, with a glebe valued at £30 per annum, and the
minister's stipend is £158. S., of which a portion is
received from the exchequer; the patronage is in the
Crown. The church, which is ancient, is conveniently
situated, and is a substantial building, accommodating
500 persons. A congregation has been formed here in
connexion with the Free Church ; and there is a paro-
chial school, in which are taught Latin, and all the
branches of an ordinary education, and the master of
which has the maximum salary, with about £18 fees,
and a house and garden. A library was instituted in
1S2S, and is partly under the direction of the Kirk Ses-
sion. At the Den of Guynd, are the remains of a fort
called Dunhead, supposed to be of Caledonian origin,
and afterwards to have been occupied by the Danes ; it
is of triangular form, and appears to have been en-
compassed by a ditch and wall. Urns, and human
bones, have been found in the neighbourhood, the latter
supposed to be of the Danes who fell in the battle of
1S3
Barrie, when they were defeated under Malcolm II.
There are several chalybeate springs, the strongest of
which is one in the Den of Guynd.
CARNBEE, a parish, in the district of St. An-
drew's, county of Fife, 2 miles (N. N. W.) from Pit-
tenweem ; containing 1043 inhabitants. This parish,
which is situated in the south-eastern part of the county,
is above four miles in length, and nearly of equal breadth,
comprising about 5600 acres, of which more than 3000
are arable, and the remainder, with the exception of a
moderate proportion of woodland and plantations, mea-
dow and pasture. The surface is diversified with hills
of conical form, of which the most conspicuous is Kellie
Law, rising to the height of S10 feet, and commanding
from the summit, a fine view of the Frith of Forth, the
German Sea, and the coasts of Haddington and Mid
Lothian, with the city of Edinburgh in the distance.
Nearly one-half of this hill is arable, and the remainder
is covered with verdure to the summit ; the hills of
Carnbee Law, Cumner, and Gelland are of similar form,
rising to a considerable height, and affording excellent
pasturage. The lands are watered by several small
burns, which flow in various directions. The soil is
mostly fertile ; in some parts, a clayey loam, in others,
a rich black mould of great depth ; and the pastures
generally are luxuriant. The chief crops are, wheat,
barley, oats, peas, beans, potatoes, and turnips ; the
system of husbandry is greatly improved ; around the
mansions of the principal proprietors may be seen the
remnants of ancient timber, and the plantations of
more recent date are in a thriving state. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £11,390. The substrata
are chiefly coal, which is generally prevalent throughout
the parish, and of which two mines are in operation ;
and limestone and freestone of excellent quality, which
are both extensively quarried.
Kellie Castle, for many generations the baronial seat
of the earls of Kellie, and now the property of the Earl
of Mar and Kellie, was once a noble mansion, contain-
ing many stately apartments, and situated near the
base of Kellie Law, in a richly-wooded demesne. Bal-
caskie House, near the southern boundary of the parish,
is surrounded with grounds tastefully laid out ; and
Pitcorthie House and Gibliston are also handsome resi-
dences. The village, which is small, is chiefl)' inhabited
by persons employed in the coal-works. The ecclesias-
tical affairs are under the superintendence of the pres-
bytery of St. Andrew's and synod of Fife ; the minis-
ter's stipend is £23S. 1J-, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £30 per annum ; patron, Sir Ralph Ans-
truther, Bart. The ancient church has been replaced
by a neat structure, erected in 1794. The parochial
school is well attended ; the master has a salary of £34,
with a house and garden, and the fees average £25.
Among persons connected with the parish, have been,
Hugo Arnott, author of State Trials, and Archibald
Constable, the eminent publisher, of whom, the latter
was a native of Carnbee.
CARNIE-HILL, a village, in the parish of Auch-
tergaven, county of Perth, 5| miles (S. E. by S.) from
Dunkeld ; containing 133 inhabitants. This village,
which is situated on the road from Perth to Dunkeld, on
the summit of an elevated ridge, at the base of which is
the village of Bankfoot, is almost identified with that
place. It is of recent origin, having, like Bankfoot,
C A R N
CARN
been built within the present century, on land belong-
ing to Mr. Wylie. The houses are neat, and, from their
elevated site, command extensive and finely-varied
prospects of the adjacent country, which is well culti-
vated, and abounds with interesting scenery. The in-
habitants are chiefly employed in weaving for the
manufacturers of Dundee, Arbroath, and other towns.
CARNOCH, or Strath conon, late a quoad sacra
parish, 20 miles (W.) from Dingwall; consisting of parts
of the parishes of Contin, Fodderty, and Urray,
county of Ross and Cromarty; and containing 563
inhabitants. The district is about eighteen miles in
length, and ten in breadth, and wholly consists of moor
pasture, with the exception of a few patches of arable
land. The estate of Strathconon, which formed nearly
the entire parish, consists of 69,896 acres ; of these,
68,005 are hills and moor, 972 arable, and green pas-
ture, and the remainder lochs. The population is agri-
cultural, and they forward their produce to the Inverness
sheep and wool market, and the Moor of Ord cattle-
markets. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the pres-
bytery of Dingwall and synod of Ross : the church is a
plain building, erected in 1S30, by the Parliamentary
Commissioners, and contains 330 sittings. The stipend
of the minister is £120, and he has a manse, a glebe of
the annual value of £2, and grazing for two cows and a
horse ; the patronage is in the Crown. There is a school,
endowed by the Society for the Propagation of Christian
Knowledge,
CARNOCK, a parish, in the district of Dunferm-
line, county of Fife, 3 miles (W. N. W.) from Dun-
fermline; containing, with the village of Cairney-hill,
and the hamlet of Gowkhall, 12/0 inhabitants, of whom
184 are in the village of Carnock. This place originally
included only the barony of Carnock, and the lands of
Blair, and Easter and Wester Camps ; but in 1650, the
Pitdennies, the lands of Luscar, and those of Clune,
which formed part of the parish of Dunfermline, were,
by act of the presbytery, annexed to this parish. The
barony formerly belonged to Lieut. -Col. John Erskine,
whose eldest son, a distinguished member of the bar,
and professor of Scottish law in the university of Edin-
burgh, built the old mansion of Newbigging, now a
farm-house. Mr. Erskine, after residing at this place
during the intervals of his professional avocations, and
having here composed his Institutes of Law, removed to
Cardross, where he died in 1767. The parish, which
is situated at the western extremity of the county, is
about three miles in length, and measures nearly the
same in average breadth, comprising about 2260 acres,
of which 1060 are arable, 450 woodland and plantations,
and the remainder meadow and pasture. The surface is
pleasingly undulated, in some parts having a consider-
able elevation ; Camps Hill and Carniel Hill form a
continuous range of rising ground, commanding a view
of the Frith of Forth, with the adjacent country, from
Stirling on the west, to Edinburgh on the east. The
Luscar Know and the Clun of Newbigging are also ele-
vated, and command views of the Ochils, Ben-Lomond,
and the Pentland hills. The streams are small ; the
Ink Craig, near the village of Carnock, is remarkable
for the black colour of its water, which, for ordinary
purposes, is sometimes used as ink.
The soil is extremely various, but generally produc-
tive, and, in some parts, richly fertile ; the system of
184
agriculture is in an improved state ; the crops are, oats,
barley, wheat, and beans, with potatoes and turnips.
A considerable number of sheep are pastured ; the
cattle are chiefly of the Fifeshire and Teeswater breeds,
but few are reared, though great numbers are fattened
for the markets. The rateable annual value of the pa-
rish is £3126. Coal is diffused throughout, and for-
merly there were five mines in operation ; the only one
at present wrought, is on the lands of Blair, consisting
of four separate seams, of which the uppermost is a
blind coal, three feet in thickness, and is used chiefly
by brewers and maltsters. The other seams are house-
hold coal, of different qualities, of which the lowest is
found at a depth of twenty-three fathoms. Sandstone,
limestone, and varieties of trap, constitute the rocks,
and freestone is quarried in several places ; in some,
susceptible of a high polish. The plantations are in a
thriving state, and are chiefly larch, spruce and Scotch
firs, oak, beech, elm, chesnut, and ash ; of these, the
firs, oak, and beech, of which there are many stately
trees on the plantations formed by Mr. Erskine, seem
best adapted to the soil.
The principal seats are, Carnock House, a small but
handsome mansion ; Blair House, a neat substantial
building, erected about the year IS 15; and Luscar House,
a handsome mansion in the Elizabethan style, recently
erected. The village of Carnock is pleasantly situated
on a rivulet of that name, over which is a bridge, sup-
posed, from an inscription on one of the stones, to have
been first erected about 1638; a post-office, subordinate
to that of Dunfermline, was established in 1S38. The
manufacture of table-linen, and table-covers of cotton
and worsted, affords employment to more than 200 of
the inhabitants, in hand-loom weaving for the whole-
sale houses at Dunfermline. A fair for cattle, and for
general business, is held on the 26th of May, or, when
that day falls on Sunday, on the preceding Saturday.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence
of the presbytery of Dunfermline and synod of Fife ;
the minister's stipend is £155, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £24 per annum ; patron, John A. Stuart,
Esq. The church, erected in 1841, is a handsome cruci-
form structure in the Norman style, with a graceful
spire, and contains 400 sittings, with arrangements for
the erection of galleries, if requisite, for 200 more ; in
the churchyard, are considerable remains of the ancient
church. There is a place of worship for members of the
Free Church ; also a meeting-house in connexion with
the United Secession Synod. The parochial school is
attended by about sixty children ; the master has a
salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees
average about £16. In the village, is a parochial library,
containing 250 volumes. Some Roman coins, and frag-
ments of urns, were discovered by the plough, at Cair-
ney Hill, about the year 1820 ; and it is supposed, from
the name of a farm in the parish, called Camps, that
there may have been a military station.
CARNOUSTIE, a village and late a quoad sacra pa-
rish, in the parish of Barrie, county of Forfar, 2 miles
(E.) from Barrie; containing 1268 inhabitants. This
place is on the eastern coast, about three miles north
of Buddon Ness, at the mouth of the river Tay. For
some years past, it has been resorted to for bathing,
and its smooth, sloping, sandy beach renders it pecu-
liarly adapted to the purpose ; the number of visiters
C A R N
C A R N
has latterly increased, owing to the facility afforded by
the Dundee and Arbroath railway, which passes through.
The village itself formed the parish, and the inhabitants,
both male and female, are for the most part employed
in hand-loom weaving, in their own dwellings ; their
manufacture is principally brown and white linen, for
the markets of Dundee and Arbroath. The ecclesiasti-
cal affairs were under the presbytery of Arbroath and
synod of Angus and Mearns ; the church was erected in
1S38, and the patronage was in the male communicants.
There are now only places of worship for members of
the Free Church, Original Secession, and United Seces-
sion. A Free Church school has been recently esta-
blished, to which the privy council made a grant ; and
there are also a library, and a savings' bank. In the
immediate vicinity of Carnoustie, a name signifying
"the cairn of heroes," are vestiges of a camp, and seve-
ral tumuli, where were deposited, it is said, the remains
of the Danes who fell under their leader Camus, when
vanquished by the Scottish army commanded by Mal-
colm II.
CARNWATH, a parish, in the Upper ward of the
county of Lanark ; including the villages of Braehead,
Forth, Newbigging, and Wilsontown ; and containing
3550 inhabitants, of whom 766 are in the village of
Carnwath, 25 miles (S. W.) from Edinburgh. This
place is supposed to have derived its name from an
ancient cairn, to the west of the present village, and
near a ford (math in Saxon) across the burn, now called
Carnwath, which, previously to the construction of the
bridges, was passable only here. The castle of Cow-
thalley, in the parish, was, for many years, the baronial
residence of the Sommervilles, one of the most opu-
lent and powerful families of the country in the 12th
century, and of whom William, the first baron, was
the firm adherent of Robert Bruce, during the disputed
succession to the crown. It was burnt in one of those
inroads of the English which so frequently occurred ;
but at what time, or by whom, it was rebuilt, is not
distinctly recorded. This castle was often the tem-
porary residence of James VI., while pursuing the
diversion of hunting, for which the neighbourhood was
peculiarly favourable ; but the foundations only can
now be traced, from which it appears to have been a
fortress of considerable extent, surrounded by a deep
fosse, and accessible by a drawbridge on the western
side.
The parish is about twelve miles in length, from
north to south, and about eight miles in breadth, and
comprises 25,193 Scotch acres, of which 8500 are
arable, 12,000 pasture and waste, 400 natural woods
and plantations, and 70 undivided common. The sur-
face is varied, consisting partly of level, and partly of
rising grounds, the former having an elevation of 600,
and the latter of 1200, feet above the sea, at the highest
point ; but there are no mountains or detached hills in
any part. The principal rivers are the Clyde and the
Medwin, which form part of the southern boundary ;
there are numerous springs of excellent water, affording
an abundant supply, and also some possessing mineral
properties, but they have not attracted much notice.
The only lake of any consideration, is Whiteloch, to the
west of the village ; it covers about thirty acres of
ground, and is of great depth in some parts ; the
shores on the south and west are richly wooded and
Vol. I. — 185
the surrounding scenery is diversified. The soil., in
one part of the parish, is a strong wet clay ; in another,
a deep rich loam ; and in other parts, light and gravelly,
intermixed with portions of moss. The chief crops
are, barley, oats, a little wheat, potatoes, and turnips ;
the rotation system of husbandry is practised, and
bone-dust, has been extensively introduced as manure,
and with much success. Great attention is paid to the
management of the dairy, on most of the farms, under
the encouragement of the Highland Society of the
district ; the cheese made is mostly of the Dunlop kind,
and the greater part is sent to Edinburgh. The cattle
are of the A}'rshire breed ; there are but comparatively
few sheep, and these are of almost every variety. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £14,207.
The substrata are principally coal, ironstone, and
limestone, all of which are extensively wrought. The
coal and limestone arc found in superincumbent strata,
on the lands north of the rivulet of Dippool ; the
limestone occurs at a depth of nearly thirty feet from
the surface, in seams of about six feet thick, and the
coal, under it, in seams of about eighteen inches, wrought
for burning the lime. On the other side of the Cleugh
burn, is a very extensive coalfield, reaching to the
northern boundary of the parish, and containing an
inexhaustible mine, which, till within the last fifty
years, had been only partially explored ; but, on the
establishment of a company here, for the manufacture
of iron, a steam-engine was erected for drawing off the
water, and mining operations were conducted on a very
extended scale. To the west of this district, at Climpy,
is another field of coal, which has also been worked
by the company. The ironstone is found in strata
of various thickness and quality ; in some parts oc-
curring in the form of tessellated pavement, and in
others, in small detached masses. The village of
Carnwath, in the southern part of the parish, is neatly
built, and contains several regular streets, and many
handsome houses, especially those of more recent erec-
tion ; most of the old houses have also been much
improved in appearance, and the whole has an air of
great cheerfulness and comfort. It is inhabited chiefly
by persons employed in weaving, for the manufac-
turers of Glasgow and Paisley. A public library is
supported by subscription ; a weekly market is held,
mostly for the sale of meal and barley, and there are
fairs in July, for cows and horses, and for hiring ser-
vants ; in the middle of August, for lambs and young
horses ; and in October, and also in February, princi-
pally for the hiring of farm-servants. On the day
after the August fair, a foot-race and various other
sports are celebrated.
The parish is in the presbytery of Lanark and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr; the minister's stipend is £250. 17.6.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum.
The church, erected in 1798, and thoroughly repaired
in 1833, is a plain neat edifice, adapted for a congrega-
tion of about 1100 persons, but almost inaccessible to
a great portion of the population. Chapels in connexion
with the Established Church have been built at Wilson-
town and Climpy ; but the latter is fast falling into a
state of dilapidation. There is a place of worship for
members of the New Light Burghers congregation, on
the road to Wilsontown ; and the parish also contains
a place of worship in connexion with the Free Church,
2 B
C A R R
C A R R
The parochial school is well conducted ; the master
has a salary of £34, with £34 fees, and a house and
garden. The ancient cairn from which the parish takes
its name is of elliptical form, and on the summit is
an opening, from which was a descent, by a flight of
steps, to the bottom ; it is surrounded by a deep fosse
and high mound, and is supposed to have been formed
as a place of security in time of war, and for conceal-
ment of treasure. Sir N. M. Lockhart has planted it
with hard-wood trees. Among the few other remains
of antiquity in the parish, is the beautiful aisle of the
old church, which was founded in 13S6, and endowed,
and made collegiate for a principal and six prebendaries,
in 1424, by Lord Sommerville, who also connected with
it a provision for the maintenance of eight poor aged
men. This aisle, which is in good preservation, and
displays some interesting details in the decorated
English style, has been the sepulchral chapel of the
Sommerville and Dalziel families, and of the earls of
Carnwath, and is now the burying-place of the family
of Lockhart. — See Wilsontown, &c.
CAROLINE-PLACE, a village, in the parish of
St. Martin, county of Perth ; containing 99 inhabit-
ants.
CARRIDEN, a parish, in the county of Linlith-
gow, 1^ mile (E. by S.) from Borrowstounness ; con-
taining, with the villages of Blackness, Bridgeness, Cuff-
abouts, Grangepans, and Muirhouses, 1208 inhabitants.
This place derives its name, originally Caer-edin, from
an old Roman station on the wall of Antonine, which
extended into this parish, nearly to Carriden House.
Of this wall, however, there are no remains, though
several Roman antiquities have been discovered, at dif-
ferent times, including a gold coin of the Emperor Ves-
pasian, a Roman altar without incription, a brass sword,
several vases, and other relics. Few events of historical
importance occur in connexion with the parish, except
such as are closely identified with the castle of Blackness,
which, with the village, is noticed in a separate article.
The parish extends for three miles, along the southern
shore of the Frith of Forth, and is about two miles in
breadth, comprising 2719 acres, of which 2550 are
arable, with some fine tracts of meadow and pasture,
113 woodland and plantations, and the remainder roads
and waste. The surface is varied, rising from the shore,
for nearly a mile, in bold undulations, which, as they
approach the south-west, near Linlithgow and Borrows-
tounness, attain an elevation of 519 feet above the sea,
and form part of the Irongath hills ; towards the east,
they gradually subside into gentle acclivities. The
shore is a sloping sand, mixed with calcareous matter,
and, at low water, expanding into a considerable breadth
of a mixture of alluvial soil and sand ; the sandy mar-
gin, however, is gradually becoming firmer and more
stony, from the encroachment of the sea.
The soil varies from a light sand to a rich and fertile
loam, and, in some parts, to a heavy clay ; the system
of agriculture is in a highly improved state, and the
crops are, grain of all kinds, potatoes, and turnips.
Some attention is paid to the rearing of live stock ; the
sheep, of which small numbers are pastured on the lands,
are generally of the black-faced kind ; the cattle are the
short-horned, occasionally intermixed with others from
the north. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£4510. The plantations consist of oak, ash, elm, beech,
1S6
plane, lime, and larch, for all of which the soil is toler-
ably adapted. There are several quarries of freestone for
building, and whinstone for the roads, which are worked
for domestic use ; coal is every where abundant, and
has been wrought from a very remote period. Within
the present century, not less than ten collieries have
been opened, at a short distance from each other ; but
only four, of which two belong to the Duke of Hamil-
ton, are at present in operation. Ironstone, also, is
wrought to some extent. Carriden House is an ancient
mansion with modern additions, situated in grounds
tastefully laid out, and embellished with the windings
of the Carriden burn, of which the banks are beautifully
picturesque.
At the village of Grangepans, the making of salt is
carried on to some extent, for which there were for-
merly six pans ; but only four are now in operation.
Near Blackness is a valuable field of clay, twelve feet
in depth, affording materials for the making of bricks
and tiles, of which, in 1S34, the produce amounted to
150,000 bricks, 200,000 roofing, and the same number
of draining tiles, since which time, the demand has
much increased. At Bridgeness, is a pier for the ship-
ping of coal and salt, and the landing of lime and
manure ; it has been recently enlarged by the pro-
prietor, and with it is connected a railway, about a
mile in length, from the collieries. Facility of com-
munication is afforded by the road from Linlithgow to
Queensferry, which passes through the south-eastern
portion of the parish. On the lands of Capt. Hope,
some stake-nets were laid down a few years since, and
the quantity of salmon taken has occasionally been
considerable. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Linlithgow and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the minister's sti-
pend is £249. 1/., with a manse, and a glebe valued
at £25 per annum ; patron, the Duke of Hamilton.
The church, a neat plain structure, erected in 1766,
about half a mile from the old church, of which the
burial-ground is still used, contains 45S sittings. The
parochial school is well conducted ; the master has a
salary of £34, with a house, and an allowance in lieu of
garden, and the fees average about £8 per annum.
There is a good parochial library. Colonel Gardiner,
who was killed at the battle of Prestonpans, in 1745,
was a native of this parish ; Dr. Roebuck, of Sheffield,
the original founder of the Carron iron-works, and as-
sociated with the celebrated Watt in some of his im-
provements on the steam-engine, is buried in the church-
yard ; and the late Rear-Admiral Sir George J. Hope
was proprietor of Carriden House.
CARRINGTON, or Primrose, a parish, in the
county of Edinburgh ; containing, with the villages
of Thornton and Whitefaugh, 616 inhabitants, of whom
1 6 1 are in the village of Carrington, 6 miles (S. by W.)
from Dalkeith. This place, at an early period, was the
property of William, Lord Ramsay, who was created
Earl of Dalhousie and Lord Carrington in 1633, and
from whom it was purchased by Sir Archibald Primrose,
ancestor of the earls of Rosebery. James, the succes-
sor of Sir Archibald, was created Viscount Primrose in
1703, and gave his family name to the estate, by which,
in most documents, the parish is noticed, though the
ancient name is still retained among the inhabitants of
the surrounding districts. The parish, which is bounded
CARR
CARS
on the south by the Moorfoot hills, on the north by
the Pentlancl hills, and on the south-east by the river
South Esk, is about three miles and a half in length,
and almost two miles in breadth, comprising an area of
nearly 3500 acres, of which the greater part is arable ;
numerous rivulets flow through the lands into the
South Esk, but none of them are of sufficient import-
ance to require particular description. On the north
lies the parish of Cockpen, on the north-west that of
Lasswade, on the south Temple and a small part of
Penicuick, and on the east the parish of Borthwick.
The soil, on the bank of the river, and around the
village, is generally fertile, but, towards the western
extremities of the parish, and especially to the north,
somewhat cold, wet, and moorish. The chief crops are,
wheat, barley, oats, peas, potatoes, and turnips, and the
rotation system of husbandry is generally practised ;
considerable progress has been made in draining and
inclosing the lands, which are mostly in a good state of
cultivation. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£4617. Coal is found throughout the whole of the
district, and some of the seams are of very superior
quality. There are but two proprietors of land in the
parish, the Earl of Rosebery and another gentleman, of
whom the latter resides at the splendid modern mansion
of Whitehall. The village, which is on the road to Dal-
keith, is neatly built, and inhabited chiefly by persons
employed in the various handicraft trades requisite for
the wants of the neighbourhood ; and facility of com-
munication is maintained by good roads, kept in repair
by statute labour, and by bridges over the Esk and
other streams. The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of Dal-
keith and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The minis-
ter's stipend is £15S. 7. 5., of which one-third is pay-
able from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £15 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Rose-
bery. The church, a neat structure, was erected in
1711. The parochial school is well conducted; the
master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with a house and
garden, and the fees average £10 per annum.
CARRON, a village, and the seat of extensive iron-
works, in the parish of Larbert, county of Stirling,
2 miles (N. N. W.) from Falkirk. This village, which
is situated on the north bank of the river Carron, about
three miles from its influx into the Forth, and has every
facility of obtaining water-power, and an easy transit for
produce, became, in 17 60, the seat of the iron- works
which are so well known as the most important and
extensive in the kingdom. These works were originally
established by a company, consisting of Messrs. Roe-
buck, formerly of Sheffield, and afterwards of Birming-
ham, Mr. Garbet, merchant of the latter place, and
Messrs. Cadell, of East Lothian. The company was
incorporated by charter, in 1773, with a capital of
£150,000, raised in shares of £250 each, and having
engaged workmen from Sheffield and Birmingham,
commenced operations under the superintendence of
Mr. Gascoigne, son-in-law of Mr. Garbet, on a very
extensive scale. The smelting of iron-ore, and the
manufacture of cast-iron goods of every description, are
carried onto a great extent; not less than 10,000 tons
of pig-iron are annually made, and the manufacture of
malleable iron from scraps, which is of more recent in-
troduction, is also extensive. Among the articles pro-
duced are, cannon, mortars, howitzers, and carronades,
1S7
which last derived their name from this establishment ;
shot, shells, and other implements of war ; agricultural
instruments, with various articles for domestic use,
steam-engines, sugar-mills, sugar-pans, and anchors,
anvils, and axles. There are four blast furnaces, two
of which have been adapted to the use of the hot blast,
and four cupola furnaces, all of which have water-wheels
for propelling the machinery ; and in summer, a power-
ful steam-engine uutil recently lifted water from a reser-
voir, to turn these wheels, at the rate of forty tons per
minute. A steam-engine, also, of gigantic power, is
incessantly at work, day and night, for the production
of blast; and fifteen air furnaces are in operation.
There are mills for boring cylinders and pipes, of which
the machinery is almost unrivalled, and the various re-
servoirs for the supply of the works cover 100 acres of
ground ; the entire number of persons employed is more
than 1000. The foundry is connected with the col-
lieries of Kinnaird and Carron Hall, by a substantial
railway of two lines, and, by another, with the shipping
wharf on the Forth and Clyde canal, at the village of
Bainsford.
CARRONBRIDGE, a village, chiefly in the parish
of Morton, and partly in that of Durisdeer, county
of Dumfries, 2 miles (N. by W.) from Thornhill; con-
taining 254 inhabitants. This place takes its name
from its bridge over the Carron water, which separates
the parishes of Durisdeer and Morton ; it is situated in
the southern extremity of the former parish, and on
the western boundary of the latter, a short distance
east of the river Nith.
CARRONSHORE, a village, partly in the parish of
Larbert, but chiefly in that of Bothkennar, county
of Stirling, 3 miles (N.) from Falkirk ; containing 83S
inhabitants, of whom 453 are in Bothkennar. This vil-
lage, which is situated on the north bank of the river
Carron, about a mile below the Carron foundry, is the
shipping place for a part of the produce of those ex-
tensive works, for which purpose, the company have
erected spacious wharfs, and a dry dock for repairing
vessels. The inhabitants are chiefly connected with the
iron-works, in which many of them are employed, and
also in the collieries in the neighbourhood, belonging to
the company ; the houses are neatly built.
CARSEBURN, a village, in the parish and county
of Forfar, 1| mile (N. E.) from Forfar; containing
10S inhabitants. It lies in the northern extremity of
the parish, and on the borders of that of Rescobie : the
road from Forfar to Brechin passes a short distance on
the east.
CARSETHORN, a village, in the parish of Kirk-
bean, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 13 miles (S.) from
Dumfries; containing 157 inhabitants. This place is
situated on the shore of the bay of Carse, on the eastern
coast of the parish, and is inhabited chiefly by persons
engaged in the coasting trade, in which three small
vessels are employed, averaging about fifty tons' bur-
then. The exports are mostly grain and other agricul-
tural produce, to Glasgow, Cumberland, and Liverpool,
and the imports are principally coal. A pier of wood
has recently been constructed, for the accommodation
of the farmers in the neighbourhood, in sending their
live stock by the Liverpool steam-packet, which makes
two voyages weekly during the summer, and one dur-
ing the winter. The bay affords good anchorage to
vessels in unfavourable weather; many from Dumfries,
2 B 2
CARS
CARS
in contrary winds, take shelter, and others, bound for
that port, wait in the bay for the spring tides.
CARSPHAIRN, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirk-
cudbright, 12 miles (N. W. by N.) from New Gallo-
way ; containing 790 inhabitants, of whom 103 are in
the village. This place, which was separated from the
parishes of Kells and Dairy in 1627, is supposed to
have derived its name from the erection of the church
and village on a small level plain, at that time over-
grown with fern. The parish is bounded on the east
by the river Ken, and on the north and west by Loch
Doon and the county of Ayr ; it is nearly circular in
form, about ten miles in length, and nearly nine in
breadth, comprising about 56,000 acres. The surface,
with the exception of a small tract of arable land around
the village, is mountainous and hilly. The highest of
the mountains is Cairnsmuir, which has an elevation of
2696 feet above the sea, commanding an unbounded
view in every direction, except the south-west, where it
is obstructed by the mountain of Carlines Cairn, nearly
equal in height. The lower hills are covered with heath ;
but those of greater elevation are well clothed with
verdure to their summits, affording excellent pasturage
for sheep and black cattle. The river Deugh, which
descends from the northern heights, with great rapidity,
takes a south-easterly course, and flows into the Ken ;
and the parish is also intersected by numerous moun-
tain streams, some of which abound with trout. The
scenery is, for the most part, wild, with scarcely any
ancient wood, and but very small patches of modern
plantations.
The lands are principally occupied as sheep-walks,
which have been improved by surface draining, and
the parish is almost entirely pastoral ; about 30,000
sheep, of the black-faced breed, are regularly pastured,
and a very considerable number of cattle, of the High-
land breed, are kept during the winter, and, in summer,
sent to the English markets. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £5414. The substrata are chiefly
greywacke and granite ; iron and lead ore are found, and
it is said that the former was wrought for many years,
till the woods producing charcoal were exhausted. A
rich vein of lead-ore has been discovered, on the lands
of the Honourable Col. Cathcart, who has spared no
expense in bringing it into successful operation, for
which purpose he has employed a large number of
miners, chiefly from Wanlockhead and Leadhills. Build-
ings have been erected for crushing, washing, and
smelting the ore, on the most approved plans, and for
separating the silver from the lead, under the superin-
tendence of skilful overseers. Cottages for the work-
men have been built on the spot, and a schoolmaster's
house, and spacious schoolroom for the instruction of
their children ; and the proprietor gives a liberal salary
to the master and mistress.
The village is small ; a post-office, a branch of that
of Ayr, has been established, and facility of communica-
tion is afforded by the turnpike-road from Dumfries to
Ayr. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright and synod
of Galloway. The minister's stipend is £182. 10., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £27 per annum ; pa-
trons, the Crown and the Forbes family. The church,
which is nearly in the centre of the parish, is a plain
structure, erected within the last twenty years, and
containing sufficient sittings. The parochial school is
188
well conducted ; the master has a salary of £34, with a
house and garden, also the interest of £500, bequeathed
by the late Mr. Mc Adam, and the fees average about
£15. The poor have the proceeds of various bequests
amounting to £800, of which £500 were left by Mr.
Mc Adam. The chief remains of antiquity are cairns, in
some of which, on their removal, stones, in the form of
coffins, were found, containing human bones ; there are
also remains of a Druidical circle. The late Dr. Jackson,
professor of natural philosophy in the university of St.
Andrew's, was a native of the place.
CARSTAIRS, a parish, in the Upper ward of the
county of Lanark ; including the village of Ravens-
truther, and containing 950 inhabitants, of whom 350
are in the village of Carstairs, 4^ miles (E. by S.) from
Lanark. The name is most probably derived from the
word Car, or Caer, signifying "a fort," and stair, or
stairs, " a possession ;" descriptive of an estate or pos-
session in a fortified place. The ancient occupation of
the district by the Romans, is evinced by many remains
of antiquity, such as coins, baths, &c, but chiefly by
the military station called Castle-dykes, and a Roman
camp on the farm of Corbie Hall. The former of these
is situated on the right bank of the Clyde, the southern
boundary of the parish ; and from it a road ran across
Clydesdale, passing the Clyde near Lanark, and run-
ning over Stonebyre hill, after which it crossed the
Nethan. The road to and from Corbie has been dis-
tinctly traced, for many miles ; and from the concurrent
opinions of antiquaries, this station is identified with
the ancient Coria, a town of the Damnii, through which
ran the great road from Carlisle to the wall of Anto-
ninus. In the 12th century, the manor, with the
church, belonged to the Bishop of Glasgow, whose right
was confirmed by bulls from several popes. After the
death of Alexander III., Bishop Wishart, with the con-
sent of Edward I. of England, when that king was pre-
sent to settle the dispute between Bruce and Baliol,
built a stone castle near the church ; and the manor
and parish continued the property of the see of Glasgow
till the Reformation.
The parish, which is of an oblong form, is six miles
in length, from north to south, and its average breadth
is about three miles ; it contains 1 1,840 acres. The
surface is irregular, and is greatly marked in some parts
by sand-knolls, which rise from fifteen to sixty feet
above the general level, and inclose numerous mosses,
formed from old woods, vegetable remains carried
thither by winds, and the decomposition of plants, with
an accumulation of stagnant water. The southern part
is picturesque and beautiful, and ornamented by the
expansive stream of the Clyde, the banks of which are
enriched with fine pasture ; and on a slope embosomed
in forest scenery, and surrounded with plantations,
lawns, and shrubberies, stands the magnificent structure
of Carstairs House, from which the approach to the
village furnishes one of the most interesting prospects
in this part of the country. The river Mouse flows in
a westerly direction through the centre of the parish,
amidst dreary tracts of moss, among which it forms
many deep pools ; trout, pike, and various other kinds
of fish, are taken by angling.
Near the Clyde, the soil, is an alluvial deposit, bear-
ing very superior crops. Between this and the passage
of the Mouse, is a continuous bed of sandy earth, lying
chiefly in the form of knolls, on a subsoil of sand and
CART
CAST
stones ; and beyond the Mouse, in the western district,
it is clayey, and in the eastern, chiefly a flat moss. The
number of acres cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, is
9936; waste or pasture, 1509; and in wood and plan-
tation, 400 : of those which are waste, 500 are supposed
capable of profitable cultivation. The produce consists
of oats, barley, potatoes, turnips, and hay ; the cattle
are of the Ayrshire kind ; all the modern improvements
in agriculture have been adopted, and the growth of
turnips has been particularly attended to. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £6465. The prevailing
rock is grey sandstone ; there are also considerable
quantities of whinstone, and some limestone, and in the
north-west is a bed of fine clay, near which a tile- work
has been erected, where drain-tiles are made. The
road from Lanark to Edinburgh, by Carnwath, and
also that by Wilsontown, and the road from Glasgow
to Peebles, all run through the parish. Fairs were for-
merly held on the first Thursday in May, and the second
in July and November, all O. S. The ecclesiastical
affairs are directed by the presbytery of Lanark and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; patron, Henry Monteith,
Esq. The minister's stipend is £234, and there is a
manse, a well-built structure, with a glebe of the annual
value of £35. The church, which was built in 1794,
and has a handsome spire, is situated in the centre of
the village, on an eminence, and contains 430 sittings.
There is a parochial school, in which are taught the
classics, practical mathematics, and all the usual
branches of education ; the master has the maximum
salary, with a house and garden, an annual bequest of
£1. 10., and £2*. 13. fees.
CARTLAND, a village, in the parish of Lanark,
Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 2 miles (N. W.)
from Lanark; containing 112 inhabitants. It is situ-
ated in the north-western part of the parish, and to the
west of the high road between Lanark and Carluke.
In the village is a small school, to the master of which
the heritors allow £5 per annum, with a house and
garden ; his fees are about £15. The romantic rocks
called Cartland Crags, are in this vicinity ; they form a
deep chasm, supposed to be the effect of an earthquake,
and through which the Mouse water finds its way to the
Clyde. A bridge of three arches is thrown across the
chasm, which is of considerable height ; and below, is
an old narrow bridge, with a semicircular arch, said to
be of Roman structure. The scenery of the place is
finely described in Miss Porter's well-known story of the
Scottish Chiefs.
CARTSDYKE, late a quoad sacra parish, in the
East parish of Greenock, Lower ward of the county of
Renfrew; containing 3651 inhabitants. This place is
situated on the Frith of Clyde, and adjoins the town of
Greenock, of which it has become a suburb, on the east
side ; it is also called Crawfurdsdyke, from the erection
of a small quay by its proprietor, Thomas Crawfurd,
Esq., who obtained from Charles I. a charter erecting
his lands here into a burgh of barony. There is a good
roadstead, much frequented by the Glasgow and other
shipping sailing along the river and Frith of Clyde.
The parish was separated from Greenock in 1839, for
ecclesiastical purposes, under the superintendence of
the presbytery of Greenock and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr ; the stipend of the minister is derived from
seat-rents. The church, originally in connexion with
189
the Secession Synod, was rebuilt on the same site, in
1828, at a cost, including a school-house, of £1052,
raised by private subscription ; it contains 906 sittings.
Besides the school attached to the church, there are
several other schools, affording instruction to a con-
siderable number of children. — See Greenock.
CASTLE, a village, in the parish of New Cumnock,
district of Kyle, county of Ayr ; containing 155 inha-
bitants.
CASTLECARY, a village, in the parish of Falkirk,
county of Stirling, 8 miles (W. S. W.) from Falkirk.
This hamlet, which is situated at the western extremity
of the parish, and on the bank of the Forth and Clyde
canal, takes its name from an ancient castle on the line
of the Roman road, of which the tower, now inhabited
by the Earl of Zetland's forester, is the only remaining
portion. On the bank of the canal is a small landing-
place for goods and passengers ; and in the immediate
vicinity are some saw-mills driven by water, in which
about sixteen persons are employed, and some freestone
quarries, which are extensively wrought.
CASTLE -DOUGLAS, a
market-town and burgh of
^jg, barony, in the parish of Kel-
ton, stewartry of Kirkcud-
bright, 10 miles (N. N. E.)
from Kirkcudbright, and S9
(S. S. W.) from Edinburgh ;
containing 184S inhabitants.
This place, which is situated
on a gentle acclivity rising
from the margin of Loch
Carlinwark, originally con-
sisted only of a few cottages
and subsequently " Carlin-
wark." It derives its present name from the ancient
castle of Threave, the baronial seat of the Douglases,
and the last of the numerous fortresses which held out
for that family, till the year 1453, when it was surren-
dered to the crown. The rapid increase of the present
town, and its former manufacturing importance, arose
from the introduction of the cotton manufacture, by its
proprietor, Sir William Douglas. This source of em-
ployment, for a time, continued, and added greatly to
its population ; but the subsequent introduction of the
power-loom, rendered it impracticable to carry on the
works with advantage, in a locality destitute of an ade-
quate suppty either of coal or of water, and the manu-
facture was consequently abaudoned. The place, not-
withstanding, continued, from its situation in the centre
of the county, and its facilities of intercourse, to acquire
an increasing degree of agricultural and commercial im-
portance ; and became, in a very short time, the prin-
cipal mart of the surrounding districts.
The town is situated on the great road from Car-
lisle to Portpatrick, and consists of several spacious
streets, intersecting each other at right angles, and
forming handsome squares, of which the internal areas
are laid out in gardens. The houses are well built; and
there are several villas in the immediate vicinity, which
abounds with pleasing scenery. Gas was introduced
into the town in February 1844, by a company, and
has proved of considerable benefit. A public library
is supported by subscription, and contains about 1200
volumes, and there is also a circulating library in
Burgh Seal.
called " Causeway End,'
CAST
CAST
the town. The shops are remarkably elegant, and are
well stored with various kinds of merchandise ; the
post-office is one of the most important in the south of
Scotland, and has fourteen branch offices under its con-
trol]], all of which have a daily delivery. A savings'
bank was opened in 1841, and has now deposits to the
amount of £2022. The market is on Monday, and is
abundantly supplied with grain of all kinds, and other
agricultural produce ; large numbers of black-cattle and
sheep, and great quantities of pigs, are constantly ex-
posed to sale. Fairs are held on the 11th of February
if on Monday, otherwise on the Monday following, for
horses j on the 23rd of March, for horses, and for hiring
servants ; the first Monday in April, for hogs ; the
Monday before the second Friday in August, for lambs ;
the 23rd of September, for horses, and hiring servants ;
and the Monday after the 13th of November (O. S.),
for horses. These fairs were formerly held at Kelton
Hill, from which place, with the exception of one still
held there, in June, they were removed to the town.
In 1J90, the town was erected into a burgh of
barony, by a royal charter, which was confirmed and
extended by a charter dated 1829, and under which the
government was vested in a provost, two bailies, and
seven councillors, who are elected triennially, on the
first Wednesday in September. The magistrates, whose
jurisdiction extends over the whole of the burgh, hold
courts every Tuesday, for the adjudication of civil
causes to any amount, and for cases of petty delin-
quency, and matters connected with the police, as occa-
sion may require ; they are assisted by the town-clerk,
who acts as assessor. The number of burgesses is about
ninety, and their qualification is by a perpetual feu
right, or by having a lease, for a hundred years, of any
ground within the burgh on which a house has been
built. The town-house is a modern building, with
a tower and a clock, and was presented to the burgh by
the late Sir William Douglas. There is a place of wor-
ship for Reformed Presbyterians ; and the recent sece-
ders from the Establishment have erected a Free church
here. — See Kelton.
CASTLETON, a parish, situated in the district of
Melrose, county of Roxburgh; containing 2135
inhabitants, of whom ] 030 are in the village of New
Castleton, 9 miles (E. by N.) from Langholm. This
place derived its name from an ancient castle here,
which stood on the east bank of the Liddel, upon a per-
pendicular precipice upwards of 100 feet in height, and
was defended on the west and south by two strong
ramparts, and a deep fosse, which are still entire. The
parish was anciently denominated Liddesdale, from the
river, which runs through it from the north-east to the
south ; camps, forts, cairns, and castles remain in va-
rious places, and on account of its situation directly
along the English border, it was formerly the scene of
violent contentions. Hermitage Castle, a building 100
feet square, protected by a strong rampart and ditch,
and standing upon the bank of a river of the same
name, is said to have been built by Sir Ranulph de
Soules, warden of the Border in the reign of David I.
One of his descendants, Lord Soules, and also governor
of the castle, according to the current tradition, was
burnt near the site of a Druidical temple, on a hill here,
called Nine-Stone Ridge ; and in the castle, Sir Alex-
ander Ramsay, of Dalhousie, was starved to death in
190
1342, by Sir William Douglas, lord of Liddesdale. The
castle was visited in 1561, by Mary, Queen of Scots,
who travelled from, and returned to, Jedburgh in the
same day, over mountains, and through marshes almost
impassable. Near it stood the chapel of Hermitage,
now a ruin, in the middle of a burying-ground, which is
still in use, and in the wall of which is fixed the ancient
font. The lands of Liddesdale, in 1540, were annexed
to the crown, by act of parliament; and in 1648, were
granted to Francis, Earl of Buccleuch, whose descendant,
in 1747, upon the abolition of heritable jurisdictions,
was allowed £600 as a compensation for the regality.
The parish is the largest and most southerly in the
count}', and about eighteen miles long, and twelve broad,
containing 65,200 acres ; it is bounded on the north-
east by Northumberland, and on the south-east by
Cumberland. The southern extremity is nearly of tri-
angular form. The surface is diversified to a high de-
gree ; the lower part of the parish is hilly, and in the
upper part the country is entirely mountainous, rising
abruptly, in many instances, to a great elevation, and
affording excellent pasture for numerous flocks of sheep.
The principal mountains are, Greatmoor, Millenwood
Fell, Tudhope, Windhead, and Tinnis Hill, which last is
seen as a landmark at a great distance from the ocean ;
some of these rise as much as 2000 feet above the level
of the sea, and give a wild and romantic appearance to
this division of the parish. The part inhabited consists
of two valleys, one of which, bordering on the river
Hermitage, is about ten miles long, from the source of
that stream until it loses itself in the Liddel ; the banks
of the water are clothed with natural wood, which, with
the general character of the scenery, enlivened with the
beautiful current, exhibits a rural picture of the most
attractive kind. The other valley is that lying along
the sides of the Liddel, which river, as well as the Tyne,
rises near the head of the parish, on the north-east.
The Tyne takes its course to the east, slowly winding
through Northumberland ; and the Liddel runs directly
west, for a few miles, after which it turns to the south.
The country through which the latter passes, is wild,
bleak, and mountainous, and, for ten miles, the banks
are entirely naked ; where it is joined by the Hermitage,
however, they are covered with trees, and flourishing
plantations there constitute prominent features in the
improving and beautiful landscape. In addition to these
streams, are the Tinnis, Blackburn, Tweeden, and Ker-
shope, which last divides the two kingdoms, with several
others, all famed for their supply of trout ; there are
also numerous mineral springs, and several beautiful
cascades and waterfalls on the various streams.
The soil varies considerably, that in the neighbour-
hood of the rivers being soft and rich, while the higher
grounds exhibit a poorer mould ; in some parts, it is
of a mossy character. Most of the arable land lies on
the banks of the rivers ; wheat, of average quality, has
been produced, but the ordinary crops are, barley,
oats, potatoes, and turnips. The mossy ground is
esteemed for the use of black-cattle and sheep ; the
cattle are chiefly the Galloway, Dutch, and Highland,
many of winch are brought by the farmers from the
Falkirk and Doune markets, and supported during
the winter upon coarse hay and other fodder, and
after being fattened on the pastures, are sold towards
the end of summer. The rateable annual value of the
CAST
C ATH
parish is £12,126. Several plantations have been
made of Scotch fir, spruce, larch, oak, ash, and beech,
which are, for the most part, in a flourishing condition; and
the natural wood consists of some of the same species,
in addition to a considerable quantity of alder. There
is a large supply of limestone of various qualities,
which is wrought to a great extent on the estates of
Lariston and Thorlieshope ; coal is obtained on the
estate of Liddelbank ; and quarries of freestone are in
every direction, except at the head of Hermitage, where
there is nothing but blue whinstone. The village, the
building of which was commenced in 1793, by the
Duke of Buccleuch, consists principally of two streets,
named the Liddel and the Hermitage ; several other
streets cross these, at right angles, and in the centre is
a market-place, called Douglas-square, round which the
buildings consist of two stories. There are also smaller
squares, at each extremity of the main street. Fairs are
held for the sale of sheep twice a year, and three for
hiring servants, in April, May, and November, respec-
tively ; and the Eskdale and Liddesdale Farmers' Asso-
ciation meet once in every three years at Castleton.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the presbytery
of Langholm and synod of Dumfries, and the patronage
is exercised by the Duke of Buccleuch ; the minister's
stipend is £250, with a good manse, and a glebe of twenty-
five acres. The church, built in 180S, accommodates
hetween 600 and 700 persons, and is in a convenient
situation, at the junction of the Liddel and Hermitage.
The Associate Synod have a place of worship. There
is one principal parochial school, to which there are
three auxiliaries ; the salaries of the masters amount
to £51, of which the head master receives £30, leaving
the remaining sum to be equally divided among the
other teachers ; the fees of the four schools are about
£70. A good subscription library has also been esta-
blished, in the village. Dr. Armstrong, author of the
Art of Preserving Health, was a native of Castleton.
CASTLETOWN, a village, in the parish of Crathie
and Braemar, district of Kincardine O'Neil, county
of Aberdeen; 57 miles (W.) from Aberdeen; containing
124 inhabitants. This village is situated on the southern
bank of the Dee, and on the great military road leading
from Blairgowrie to Fort George and Aberdeen, and
is usually termed Castletown of Braemar. The ancient
castle of Braemar, from which it has its name, standing
on a gentle acclivity below the village, in a pass be-
tween two hills, was formerly the seat of the earls of
Mar, who possessed the neighbouring lands, and was
afterwards converted into a garrison, for the intimida-
tion of the Highland chieftains. It was leased to govern-
ment in 1748, for ninety-nine years, for barracks, and
has since been occasionally occupied by soldiers. The
spot is shown here where, in 1715, the Earl of Mar
raised the standard of the Pretender ; and about a
mile and a half down the valley, is a steep rock called
" Charters' ' chests," so named from a cave in it, of
difficult access, where the charters which pertained to
the Invercauld property were deposited during the
rebellion of the earl. There is a post-office, with a daily
post to and from Aberdeen ; and three fairs are held
annually, two chiefly for cattle, and the other for cattle
and sheep. An ordained missionary, supported by the
royal bounty, regularly officiates for this district ; there
is also a chapel for Roman Catholics. Near the village,
191
are the ruins of an old castle said to have been built
as a hunting-seat for King Malcolm Canmore, who
erected a bridge here over the Cluny water, which
stream, at a short distance to the north, falls into the
Dee.
CASTLETOWN, a village, in the parish of Olrick,
county of Caithness, 5 miles (E. by S.) from Thurso;
containing 477 inhabitants. This is a remarkably neat
and thriving village, situated near the south coast of
Dunnet bay ; it owes its advancing prosperity to its
proximity to the valuable quarries of Castlehill, of which
the stone is known by the name of Caithness pavement.
A church has been recently built, at the east end of
the village, in which, also, is the parochial school ; and
a female school has been partially endowed.
CATHCART, a parish, partly in the Lower ward of
the county of Lanark, but chiefly in the Upper ward
of the county of Renfrew ; including the villages of
New and Old Cathcart, Clarkston, Crosshill, Crossmy-
loof, Hanginshaw, Langside, Millbridge, and Netherlee ;
and containing 2349 inhabitants, of whom 174 are in
Old Cathcart, 3 miles (S.) from Glasgow. This place,
which is supposed to have derived its name, of Celtic
origin, from the situation of its castle on the river Cart,
is of remote antiquity. It appears, at an early period,
to have formed part of the possessions of Walter, lord
high steward of Scotland, who, in 11 60, granted its
church, together with all its dependencies, to the abbey
of Paisley, which he had founded. The remainder of
the lands became the property of the ancient family
of Cathcart, of whom Sir Alan, in 1447, was raised to
the peerage by James II., under the title of Lord Cath-
cart ; the estates were alienated by Alan, the third
lord, in 1546, and then belonged to the Semples for
several generations. Of the Cathcart family, who have
again become owners of the castle, three were killed in
the battle of Flodden Field, in 1513, and another in
the battle of Pinkie, in 1547; the fourth lord Cathcart
distinguished himself at the battle of Langside, and
the eighth lord, as colonel of the Scots Greys, contri-
buted to the victory obtained over the rebel army at
Sheriffmuir. William, the tenth lord, who commanded
the British forces at the taking of Copenhagen, in 1807,
was, on that occasion, created viscount, and, in 1814,
Earl Cathcart.
The parish, which is about five miles in length, and
from one and a half to two miles in breadth, is bounded
on the north and east by the county of Lanark. The
surface is beautifully diversified with gentle undulations,
and detached hills of greater elevation, cultivated to
their summits ; and is intersected with the windings of
the river Cart, in some parts flowing with gentle course,
through verdant meadows, and in others forcing its
way between rugged and precipitous banks, thickly
wooded. The number of acres is 2950, of which, with
the exception of about 90 in woodland and plantations,
and about 60 in lawns and pleasure-grounds, the whole
is arable, and in cultivation. The soil is generally fer-
tile, and the system of agriculture has been greatly im-
proved; the rotation plan of husbandry is prevalent,
and the lands have been rendered more productive by
furrow-draining. The chief crops are, oats, potatoes,
wheat, and hay, in regular succession, for which ready
sale is found in the markets of Glasgow and other
towns. The rateable annual value of the parish is
C ATH
C AT R
£89*25. The substratum is part of the coal basin which
extends from the hills of Campsie, on the north, to
those of Cathkin, on the south ; there are several coal-
mines in the parish, but none at present in operation.
Limestone and freestone are also abundant, and a large
quarry of the latter, at Crosshill, is extensively wrought ;
in the channel of the Cart, are numerous minerals, of
which a valuable collection has been presented, by Lord
Greenock, to the Hunterian museum of Glasgow. Cart-
side Cottage, the residence of Earl Cathcart, is a hand-
some seat, near the remains of the ancient castle, which,
from its strength, has resisted all attempts to remove it,
and still forms an interesting ruin, defended on two
sides by the precipitous banks of the river. Aikenhead
is also a handsome and spacious mansion, consisting of
a centre and two wings, finely situated, and surrounded
by a large demesne tastefully embellished with wood and
plantations. The principal manufacture is that of hand-
loom weaving, in which about one hundred families are
employed, at their own dwellings, for the manufacturers
of Glasgow and Paisley ; on the river Cart, is an exten-
sive paper-mill, originally established by a French re-
fugee, in 1685, and on the same stream, is a mill for the
manufacture of snuff. There are also extensive corn-
mills ; and on the river, just before it enters the parish
of Eastwood, is a bleachfield, at Newlands, but the per-
sons employed in it mostly belong to Pollockshaws.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Glasgow and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr; the minister's stipend is £276, with
a manse, built in 1S18, and a glebe valued at £16. 10.
per annum ; patron, John Gordon, Esq. The old
church, which contained only 1 50 sittings, and was
greatly dilapidated, was taken down, and the present
church erected, in 1832, at an expense of £2500, by
the heritors ; it is a handsome structure in the later
English style, with a square embattled tower, and con-
tains 1000 sittings. The parochial school was built
in J S30, at a cost of £500 ; the master has a salary of
£30, with a house and garden, and the fees average
about £15. The Cathcart Club, which holds its annual
meetings in Glasgow, generally distributes about £25
per annum among such of the needy families in the
parish as do not apply for parochial aid. On the hill of
Langside are some remains of what is supposed to have
been a Roman camp, and which, from its having been
occupied by Mary, Queen of Scots, while an anxious
spectator of the battle of Langside, is called by the
people Queen Mary's camp. A Roman vase, of elegant
workmanship, was discovered about the commencement
of the present century, by the late minister of the parish,
while digging for the foundation of a house at Wood-
End, and is now in the Hunterian museum. On the
farm of Overlee, on the north bank of the Cart, nume-
rous subterranean buildings have been found ; the sides
were from four to five feet in length, faced with un-
dressed stone, and in the floors, which were paved with
thin flags, were excavations as if for fire-places, in which
ashes were found. The Rev. Principal Carstairs was
a native of the parish, of which his father was minister.
— See Clarkston, Langside, &c.
CATHCART, NEW, a village, in the parish of Cath-
cart, county of Renfrew, \ a mile (W.) from Old
Cathcart ; containing 280 inhabitants. This village is
of very modern date, and is indebted for its origin to
192
the opening of a new line of road into the county of
Ayr, which is carried over the river Cart, near this
place, by a neat bridge, erected in 1800. The inhabit-
ants were greatly increased in number, by the opening
of a coal-mine, in the immediate vicinity, in which the
greater portion of them were employed ; but this has
recently been suspended in its operation.
CATRINE, a manufacturing village, and until re-
cently a quoad sacra parish, in the parish of Sorn,
district of Kyle, county of Ayr, 1\ miles (E. by S.)
from Mauchline ; containing 2659 inhabitants. This
place, which, prior to the year 1786, contained only the
two families of the miller and the blacksmith of the pa-
rish, is indebted, both for its origin and progress, to
the establishment of the cotton manufacture, at that
time, by the late Claud Alexander, Esq., of Balloeh-
myle, and David Dale, Esq., a merchant of Glasgow.
These works, after being carried on for a few years,
were purchased from the original proprietors by Messrs.
Finlay and Company, of Glasgow, who enlarged the
concern, and brought it to its present flourishing con-
dition. The buildings are spacious, and replete with
machinery of every kind ; two water-wheels, each fifty
feet in diameter, estimated at 200 horse-power, have
been erected for giving motion to the machinery, and
two steam-engines, of sixty horse-power each, have been
added, to secure the continuance of the work under any
failure of water. In the bleaching-works, also, the
requisite machinery is propelled by a water-wheel of
thirty-two feet diameter, and by a steam-engine of
twenty-eight horse-power. Every process of the cotton
manufacture is carried on, with the utmost regularity ;
the raw material sent from Glasgow is spun, woven,
bleached, and finished, either for home consumption, or
for exportation to foreign markets. In the bleaching-
works, which were established in 1824, in addition to
the goods produced in the cotton factory of this place,
all the cloth manufactured at the other works of the
company are bleached ; the process is carried on within
the walls, at all seasons of the year, and from 150 to
200 acres of land, which would be requisite for the
exclusive purpose of a bleachfield, are thus appropri-
ated to agricultural uses. The number of persons em-
ployed in both the works is 960.
The village, which alone constituted the parish, is
pleasantly situated in an extensive and picturesque vale,
through which the river Ayr pursues its winding
course, and is neatly built on the north bank of the
river, over which is a handsome stone bridge ; it is
lighted with gas of the very best quality, from works
which have been considered the most excellent in Ayr-
shire for economy of production. There are two public
libraries, containing each a collection of from 600 to
700 volumes, and supported by subscribers ; a phi-
losophical library ; and a library in connexion with
a Sunday school. Many of the inhabitants are also
employed in hand-loom weaving, for the manufacturers
of Glasgow and Paisley, and several in the various
trades requisite for the supply of the population ; a
penny-post has been established, and there is an ex-
cellent market on Saturday, for provisions of all
kinds. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the pres-
bytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. A
chapel of ease was built by Mr. Alexander, in 1*92, at
an expense of £1000; it was purchased by the feuars
CAVE
CAVE
of the village, about ten years ago, as they were bound
by contract to erect a chapel and enclose a burying-
ground, and it afterwards became the church of the
parochial district which has been recently dissolved.
It is a substantial edifice, adapted for a congregation
of 730 persons, and, by the subsequent addition of
galleries, has been made to contain 1 1 60 sittings ; the
patronage is exercised by the communicants. Places
of worship have been built for members of the Free
Church and the United Secession ; and a school for the
children in the works, has been long supported by the
proprietors. A friendly society was established in
1S29, and has a fund of £300 ; it is well supported,
and has been found very beneficial in obviating neces-
sity for parochial relief. The late Dugald Stewart, the
eminent professor of moral philosophy, had a summer
residence here.
CATTERLINE, a village, in the parish of Kinneff
and Catterline, county of Kincardine, 5 miles (N.
by E.) from Stonehaven ; containing 79 inhabitants.
This village is situated on the eastern coast, and chiefly
inhabited by fishers, who have two boats, and take cod,
ling, skate, haddock, and various kinds of shell-fish.
A small harbour has been constructed by the erection
of a pier, at the expense of Viscount Arbuthnott, which
affords facilities for the landing of coal, lime, and other
necessary supplies ; and from the natural advantages of
the situation, there is great probability of its further
extension. A coast-guard station has also been esta-
blished here.
CAULDHAME, a hamlet, in the parish of Kippen,
county of Perth ; containing 70 inhabitants.
CAUSEYHEAD, a village, partly in the parish of
Logie, county of Clackmannan, and partly in the pa-
rish and county of Stirling, 1 mile (N. by E.) from
Stirling ; containing 309 inhabitants. It takes its name
from its situation, being the head of the long causeway
of Stirling. In the neighbourhood is a sandstone quarry,
of which the material is used for ordinary purposes.
CAUSEYSIDE, a village, in the parish of Old
Monkland, Middle ward of the county of Lanark;
containing 367 inhabitants.
CAVA, a small islet, in the parish of Orphir,
county of Orkney ; containing 23 inhabitants. It is
situated about two miles south from Pomona, and is
about a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in
breadth. There is a ruinous chapel on the island, and
around it a churchyard.
CAVERS, a parish, in the district of Hawick,
county of Roxburgh, 2 miles (N. E. by E.) from Hawick;
containing, with the village of Denholm, 1709 inhabit-
ants. The name of this place is supposed to be derived
from a compound British word signifying "a short field"
or " inclosure," applied originally to a part of the parish.
There are several camps of Roman and Saxon origin,
and also a defence-ditch, constructed by the Picts, and
about seven miles long, all indicating the character of
those who, in remote antiquity, occupied the locality ;
but no information remains as to any transactions of so
distant a period. The lands, in 1398, were granted to
George, Earl of Angus, and, in 1402, came to Isabel,
Countess of Mar, who, without consent of the king,
transferred them to the Earl of Douglas, then a prisoner
in England. This neglect appears to have vitiated the
assignment, and the property consequently escheated to
Vol. I.— 193
the king, Robert III., who, in 1405, gave it to Sir David
Fleming, of Biggar, as a reward for his loyalty and
eminent services. Sir David, a short time after, was
assassinated by James, son of Archibald, Earl of Dou-
glas, after which, the lands, with the sheriffdom of Rox-
burghshire, remained in the family of Douglas till the
abolition of heritable jurisdictions. The town of Cavers
was taken and laid waste by the English, in 1596, and
appears not to have been rebuilt. The advowson of the
church once belonged to Melrose Abbey, having been
granted to that establishment by William, first earl of
Douglas, who was interred at Melrose, in 1384.
The parish is about twenty-four miles long, and
from two to eight miles in breadth, and contains about
76,000 acres ; its outline, like its surface, is altogether
irregular, intersecting, and being intersected by, several
other parishes. The scenery comprises hill and dale,
pasture and arable land, wood and water, all uniting to
produce an agreeable landscape. The lower part of the
district consists of a series of continuous undulations,
well cultivated, inclosed with neatly-trained hedge-rows,
and occasionally ornamented with choice plantations ;
the upper division is of an entirely different character,
being altogether pastoral, and diversified chiefly with
verdant hills and woody brakes, which relieve the uni-
formity of its wild and spreading tracts of grazing land.
The numerous hills, the peculiar features of which are
their graceful and well-rounded summits, are covered in
summer with a rich verdure, and have some very fine
views. The loftiest mountain is the Wisp, which rises
1830 feet above the level of the sea, and commands a pros-
pect, to the eastward, of the sea at Berwick-upon-Tweed;
to the south and west, of the Solway Frith, and, in a
clear day, the Isle of Man. There are several other
mountains of nearly the same elevation, which exhibit
almost every diversity of position, form, and surface, all
combining to produce a powerful impression on the
admirer of this description of scenery. The principal
river is the Teviot, which rises in the parish, and forms
its north-western boundary ; the Slitrige also rises in
the parish, and, after winding about through a great
variety of interesting scenery, is lost in the Teviot at
Hawick. All the streams in these parts abound in
trout, and are annually visited, in the principal spawn-
ing season, about Martinmas, by salmon from the sea.
The soil is very various ; rich and fertile near the
confluence of the Teviot and Rule ; in the lower division,
generally a good productive mould ; but in the more
elevated lands, of inferior character, and occasionally
bare and rocky. The higher grounds are employed
chiefly for the pasturage of sheep, of which the total
number is about ] 1,500, all of the pure Cheviot breed :
the cattle, to the rearing of which great attention has
been paid, are chiefly the Teeswater. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £12,493. The principal
mansions are, Cavers House, the seat of the Douglas
family ; and Stobs Castle, the property of Sir William F.
Eliott, Bart. There are several good turnpike-roads, of
which thatbetweenEdinburgh and Carlisle passes through
the upper part of the parish; another runs through the
lower part, to Jedburgh, Kelso, and other places, and a
third, along the Slitrige, communicates with the English
border counties. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to
the presbytery of Jedburgh and synod of Merse and
Teviotdale ; patron, James Douglas, Esq. The stipend
2 C
C A W D
CERE
of the minister is £250, with a manse, built in 1813.
The church is an elegant and substantial edifice, situated
in the lower division of the parish ; it was built in 1S21,
with sittings for about 400 persons, and is in very good
repair. There is also a chapel at Caerlanrig, in the
upper part of the parish, erected by the inhabitants
about forty years ago, and supposed to have succeeded
several others, which stood on the same site. The Duke
of Buccleuch, who supplied the ground, and materials
for the building, allows the minister £25 per annum ;
and he receives several other contributions, making up
a sum of about £50 as a salary, and also has a manse.
There are three parochial schools, situated at Denholm,
Stobs, and Caerlanrig ; the master at Denholm has a
salary of £30, with about £25 fees, and the other masters
each receive from £12 to £15 salary, and about £20
fees. Some time ago, a large stock of gold coins was
found at Priest-haugh, supposed to have been hidden by
the attendants of Queen Mary, when she visited Both-
well at Hermitage Castle, in Liddesdale, in 1561. At
Caerlanrig, the celebrated border robber, John Arm-
strong, of Gilknockie, with several of his companions,
was executed by order of King James V.
CAVE RTON, a village, in the parish ofEcKFORD,
district of Kelso, county of Roxburgh, 4^ miles (S.
by E.) from Kelso ; containing 50 inhabitants. It is in
the vicinity of an extensive common, on which is a race-
course, where the Kelso races are held.
CAWDOR, a parish, partly in the county of Inver-
ness, but chiefly in that of Nairn; containing 1150
inhabitants, of whom 146 are in the village of Cawdor,
5-§ miles (S. S. W.) from Nairn. This place was an-
ciently called Barewan, or Barivan, from the situation
of the original church, of which there are some remains
in the braes or hilly parts of the parish, and from its
patron saint, Ewan. It has for several centuries, how-
ever, been distinguished by the appellation of Calder,
or Cawdor, the name of a tributary stream flowing
through it into the river Nairn, and of which the banks,
richly wooded, and crowned with a stately baronial
castle, have long been celebrated for their romantic
beauty. Connected with this fortress, for the erection
of which a royal license was obtained in 1393, are
some highly interesting historical allusions. The mur-
der of Duncan, King of Scotland, has been traditionally
referred to this place, aud the room is still shown in
which it is said to have occurred ; but the date of the
building sufficiently contradicts this opinion, which
may have been erroneously derived from the circum-
stance of Macbeth's inferior title being Thane of Cawdor.
During the rebellion in 1745, Lord Lovat, who had
taken an active part in that transaction, found refuge
from his pursuers in a retired apartment of this castle,
in which, for a considerable time, he lay concealed.
The parish, which is bounded on the north by the
river Nairn, is about four miles in length, and of very
irregular form, varying from one mile to five miles in
breadth, with a narrow strip extending southward for
nearly sixteen miles, and crossing the river Findhorn.
It comprises 35,313 acres, of which more than 3000
are arable, upwards of 5000 acres woodland and plan-
tations, and the remainder pasture and moor. The
surface, for nearly a mile from the bank of the Nairn,
is a continued plane, rising towards the south into
hills of considerable elevation, of which the acclivities
194
near the base are in excellent cultivation, the higher
portions richly planted, and the summits covered with
heath. The soil, in the plains, is a loam of moderate
fertility, resting on sand and gravel, and the hills afford
tolerable pasture for cattle ; the lower hills are com-
posed chiefly of old red sandstone, and in the higher
are beds of gneiss, interspersed with veins of granite.
The system of agriculture has been greatly improved,
under the auspices of the Nairnshire Farming Societ}',
who hold annual meetings here, at which they award
premiums for the best specimens of stock ; the crops
consist of grain of every kind, potatoes, and turnips,
and the rotation plan of husbandry is predominant.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £2370.
Timber attains a luxuriant growth ; oak, ash, fir, alder,
and birch are indigenous to the soil, and the planta-
tions consist mostly of beech, larch, lime, sycamore,
and elm. The prevailing character of the scenery is
beautifully picturesque.
Cawdor Castle, the seat of Earl Cawdor, and his
occasional residence, is a stately structure in good
preservation, and of much strength ; the walls, which are
of great thickness, and crowned with battlements, are
defended by a lofty tower, which is the most ancient
portion of the building, and the whole presents a fine
specimen of baronial grandeur. The village, which is
neatly built, obtained a charter of incorporation in the
reign of Charles I. ; but it never exercised any of the
privileges conferred upon it, or rose into any importance.
The only manufacture carried on is that of whisky, in
the well known Brackla distillery; a penny-post has
been established, as a branch of the office at Nairn,
and the roads are kept in good repair. The ecclesias-
tical affairs of the parish, which has been augmented
with portions of those of Nairn and Auldearn, are
under the superintendence of the presbytery of Nairn
and S5mod of Moray. The minister's stipend is £156,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £7 ; patron, Earl
Cawdor. The church, built in 16 19, and repaired and
improved in 1830, is a neat structure, containing 681
sittings ; the service is performed alternately in the
English and Gaelic languages. There is a place of
worship for members of the Free Church. The paro-
chial school is well attended ; the master has a salary
of £34, and the fees average about £10. A school was
lately established, and is supported by the Society for
Propagating Christian Knowledge, who also support a
school for females ; and another female school is endowed
by the Countess Cawdor.
CERES, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county
of Fife ; containing, with the villages of Chance-Inn
and Craigrothie, 2944 inhabitants, of whom 1079 are
in the village of Ceres, 2^ miles (S. E.) from Cupar.
This place, of which the name is of very uncertain
derivation, appears to have consisted originally of seve-
ral distinct baronies, belonging to various families of
importance. The parish is about eight miles in length,
aud of extremely irregular form, varying from about
half a mile to four miles in breadth. The surface is
pleasingly varied with hills and level plains, and inter-
sected by different streams, of which the principal is
the Eden, winding along the north-western boundary
of the parish, for nearly a mile and a half; this beau-
tiful river formerly abounded with trout of excellent
quality, which, since the erection of some manufactories
CERE
CHAN
on its banks, have greatly diminished in number. Two
rivulets, flowing respectively from the south and west,
unite their streams in approaching the village of Ceres,
and form the small river of that name, which, after
passing through the village, falls into the Eden ; it is
subject to violent inundations, which have destroyed
one stone bridge of great strength, and occasionally do
much damage to the lands. The general scenery is
diversified ; and the ruins of several ancient baronial
mansions, which occupy commanding situations, and
retain much of their original grandeur, give an air of
romantic interest to the landscape.
The soil is various ; along the banks of the Eden, it
is of light sandy quality ; in other parts, a fine loose
mould, interspersed with clay ; and in others, consists
of moss and moorlands, which, by the recent improve-
ments that have taken place in agriculture, have been
rendered fertile. The number of acres in the parish, is
estimated at about 8000, of which 3200 are arable,
about 4000 in pasture, and 800 in plantations and
moor ; the system of husbandry is in a very advanced
state. The cattle, of which great numbers are fed for
the neighbouring markets, are of various breeds ; and
great quantities of pork are sent hence, to the London
and other markets. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £12,562. The plantations are well managed
and flourishing ; and on the lands belonging to several
of the proprietors, is some stately timber. The sub-
strata are chiefly freestone, whinstone, and limestone,
with portions of columnar basalt ; and coal is found
in some parts of the parish. The freestone and whin-
stone are extensively quarried for building and other
purposes, and large quantities of the latter are employed
in the construction of drains and fences ; the limestone
is very abundant, of various qualities, and also wrought
to a great extent. The coal, which is likewise of
various quality, has been extensively wrought, but the
workings have been discontinued for some years; the
seams of coal are found in a direction parallel with the
limestone, from which it is separated by masses of trap.
Edenwood, the property of Sir George Campbell, is
a splendid modern mansion, beautifully situated in
grounds tastefully laid out; and Teasses is also a hand-
some mansion, commanding a fine view of the Frith of
Forth.
A considerable number of the inhabitants are em-
ployed in the spinning of flax, tow, and yarn, the raw
materials for which are brought from Dundee, to which
town, and also to the manufacturers of Fife, the yarn
is sent. Two mills for these purposes were erected in
1827, on the lands of Pitscottie Easter ; they are usually
propelled by water, but in dry seasons, when the
supply of water is insufficient, are driven by steam,
and they afford employment to a considerable number
of persons. There is also a spinning-mill at Tarvet,
which was erected in 1799, and is driven partly by
water, and partly by steam, and which also comprises
machinery for sawing timber. A bleaching establish-
ment was opened at Duraden in 1825, which, from a
well of that name in the vicinity of the works, is called
the St. Ann's Bleaching Company ; and affords employ-
ment to about forty persons. The articles woven in
the parish were formerly confined to brown Silesias ;
but, since the erection of the mills, and the establish-
ment of the bleachfield, sheetings and dowlas have been
195
chiefly manufactured ; about 900 persons are thus
employed, and the average value of their produce
amounts to £60,000 per annum. The village is plea-
santly situated, and surrounded by scenery containing
many highly interesting features ; the river Ceres flows
through the centre of it, and a good bridge of stone
has been erected. The houses are chiefly inhabited by
persons engaged in weaving and in the various manu-
factures carried on in the parish ; it has been consi-
derably extended by the erection of numerous houses
beyond the bridge, and the church, which was formerly
at one extremity of it, is now, by that addition, almost
in its centre. Fairs are held on the 24th June and
20th October, for the sale of wool, grain of all kinds,
cattle, and horses, and are numerously attended.
The church formerly belonged to the religious esta-
blishment of Kirkheugh, at St. Andrew's, and was after-
wards under the direction of that presbytery ; but the
ecclesiastical affairs of the parish are now under the
controul of the presbytery of Cupar and synod of Fife.
The stipend of the incumbent is £229. 13. : the manse
was built in 1788, and the glebe comprises about
seven acres ; patron, the Earl of Glasgow. The church,
erected in 1806, near the site of the former, is a neat
and substantial edifice, adapted for a congregation of
1100 persons. There are places of worship for mem-
bers of the Free Church, Associated Antiburghers, and
the Relief persuasion. The parochial school affords a
liberal course of instruction, including the classics and
mathematics; the master has a salary of £34, and £38
fees, with a house. In the old church, was an aisle
belonging to the family at Craighall, which, previously
to the Reformation, was a chapel dedicated to St.
Ninian. There are some interesting remains of the seat
of Craighall, about half a mile from the village of Ceres ;
they are situated on the bank of a deep, sequestered,
and richly-wooded dell, and still present a striking
memorial of ancient grandeur. The remains of Struthers,
the seat of the earls of Crawfurd, situated in a park of
200 acres inclosed with a stone wall, have been reduced
to a mere ruin ; the venerable and stately timber on the
lands, has either perished or been cut down, and of the
once splendid castle, with its lofty embattled towers,
one solitary tower alone is left. The parish also con-
tains another old residence, a tower, about twenty-
five feet square, and sixty feet high, built of hewn free-
stone, and situated on an eminence commanding an
extensive prospect over the surrounding country. Lind-
say, of Pitscottie, author of a history of Scotland, was a
native of this place; and Thomas Haliburton, professor
of divinity in the university of St. Andrew's, was
minister of it.
CESSFORD, a village, in the parish of Eckford,
district of Kelso, county of Roxburgh, 6 miles (N. E.)
from Jedburgh; containing 150 inhabitants. It is situ-
ated in Teviotdale, and near the Teviot stream, which
here runs on the west, and immediately afterwards takes
a south-westerly direction. Near the village are the
remains of the ancient castle of Cessford, which gives
the title of Baron to the Duke of Roxburgh.
CHANCE INN, a village, in the parish of Ceres,
district of Cupar, county of Fife, 2 miles (S. by W.)
from Cupar; containing 132 inhabitants. It is in the
western part of the parish, and on the borders of the
parish of Cults, and has a post-office.
2 C 2
CHAN
CHAR
CHANNELKIRK, a parish, in the county of Ber-
wick, 6 miles (N. N. W.) from Lauder, on the road
between Edinburgh and Kelso ; containing 7 SO inhabit-
ants. The name of this place is said to have been origi-
nally Childer-kirk, signifying " the children's kirk," some
supposing it to have been so called from the dedication
of its church to the Innocents ; it has also been written
Childln-kirk, meaning, according to others, " the church
at. the fort," on account of the church and village stand-
ing within the area of a Roman camp. The numerous
Pictish encampments, traces of which yet remain in the
parish, show it to have been, in ancient times, the scene
of military commotion, of the particulars of which no
information is recorded. The monks of Melrose Abbey
were accustomed to pass along a road running through
this district, in their way to and from Edinburgh, and
rested and refreshed themselves at a house a few miles
west from the church, called the " Resh Law," or
" Restlaw Haw," which was about half way between
Melrose and Edinburgh, and the ruins of which still
remain. The parish is of circular figure, measuring
about six miles in diameter, and contains upwards of
17,000 acres. The surface is marked by hills and val-
leys, having but a small portion of level ground. To-
wards the north and west, the lofty hills, which form a
part of the Lammermoor range, separate the counties
of East and Mid Lothian from the shire of Berwick,
and are for the most part bleak, and covered with heath.
The highest hill, in that direction, is Soutra, which
attains an elevation of 1000 feet above the sea. The
vale of the Leader commences here, stretching out to
the east, and having the Lammermoor hills for its
northern boundary ; on the south, is a moory ridge
which separates it from the valley of Gala. There are
numerous springs of good water, running from all the
hills ; but the only river is the Leader, which, after
receiving, in the principal -valley through which it glides,
several mountain streamlets, flows onwards for about
seventeen miles, and falls into the Tweed below Melrose.
The soil, near the banks of the river, is a light dry
earth, resting upon a deep subsoil of sandy gravel ; a
deep layer of peat is found on the hills wherever the
surface is level to any extent, and frequently there are,
under this, considerable quantities of fine sand and
gravel. About one-half is under a regular rotation of
crops ; the other half is permanent hill pasture. There
is no natural wood ; but about 100 acres are in planta-
tions, consisting principally of larch and Scotch fir,
with some elm and ash, which are, for the most part, in
a thriving condition. A very small quantity only of
wheat is produced, the soil and climate being uncon-
genial to its growth ; the system of husbandry is the
five years' rotation of crops, which is usually applied to
light soils suited to the growth of turnips. The sheep
on the hills are generally of the old Scotch black-faced
breed, but in the lower grounds, the Cheviots, and some-
times the Leicesters, are preferred. The rateable an-
nual value of the parish is £6053. The rocks on the
hills are all of the trap formation, and in the bottom of
the river Leader are beds of red sandstone, which is
used for building : some whinstone quarries in the
parish supply materials of the best quality, and in great
abundance, for road-making and building. The eccle-
siastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of Lauder
and synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; patron, Sir Hugh
196
Campbell, Bart. The minister's stipend is £190, with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum. The
church is situated in the hamlet, of Channelkirk, nearly
in the middle of the parish, but somewhat inconve-
niently, being too distant for the bulk of the popula-
tion, and seated on a hill about S00 feet above the level
of the sea ; it was built in 18 17, in the Elizabethan
style, and accommodates 300 persons. There is a
parochial school, the master of which has a salary of
£30, about £40 fees, and a house and garden ; there is
also a good parochial library, established about fifty
years since.
CHAPEL, a village, in the parish of Abbotshall,
district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, 2 miles (N. W.)
from Kirkcaldy; containing 159 inhabitants. It lies
in the northern part of the parish, and nearly on the
borders of the parish of Dysart.
CHAPEL OF GARIOCH.— See Garioch.
CHAPELHALL, a village, in the late quoad sacra
parish of Holytown, parish of Both well, Middle ward
of county Lanark ; containing 1431 inhabitants. This
village is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in the
collieries and mines in the immediate vicinity, and in
the extensive iron and steel works of the Monkland
Company, which have been long established in the neigh-
bourhood. There is a place of worship for members of
the United Associate Synod ; and schools for the in-
struction of children are supported by the proprietors
of the several works. — See Holytown.
CHAPELHILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Monzie,
county of Perth ; containing 77 inhabitants.
CHAPELTON, a hamlet, in the parish of Borgue,
stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 1 mile (S. W.) from
Borgue; containing 31 inhabitants.
CHAPELTON, a village, in the parish of Cambus-
lang, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; contain-
ing 367 inhabitants, almost exclusively employed in
weaving. There is a place of worship for members of
the Free Church.
CHAPELTON, a village, in the parish of Glas-
ford, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 3| miles
(N. by E.) from Strathaven ; containing 60'2 inhabitants.
This village, which derives its name from the occasional
performance of divine service here, previously to the
erection of the present church, is pleasantly situated,
and the inhabitants are generally employed in agricul-
ture. There are three friendly societies, consisting in
the aggregate of about 200 members ; and a temperance
society of forty members. Two endowed schools have
been established, both of which are branches of the
parochial school, and so situated as to be easily accessi-
ble to the children from all parts of the parish ; and
there is also a sabbath school, supported by subscrip-
tion.
CHAPELTON OF BOYSACK, a hamlet, in the
parish of Inverkeilor, county of Forfar, 5 miles
(N. by W.) from Arbroath ; containing 52 inhabitants.
It is situated to the south of the Lunar water, and on
the road from Brechin to Arbroath. Here is a school,
endowed with a small bequest, and of which the master
has a house and garden.
CHARLESTON, a village and small sea-port, in
the parish and district of Dunfermline, county of
Fife, 3 miles (S. W. by S.) from Dunfermline ; contain-
ing 772 inhabitants. This village, which is situated on
CHER
CHIR
the north shore of the Frith of Forth, was founded for
the accommodation of the persons employed in the ex-
tensive collieries and lime-works of the Earl of Elgin, in
the immediate neighbourhood. It is well built, and has
a neat and pleasing appearance ; the surrounding sce-
nery is enlivened by the well-planted demesne of Broom-
hall, the seat of the earl, and the inhabitants are generally
in easy circumstances. The manufacture of various
articles of cast-iron and brass, for which a foundry has
been established, is carried on to a moderate extent ;
and there are some extensive limekilns, in which the
limestone obtained from the quarries is burnt. The
produce of the Elgin collieries, and the limestone from
the quarries, are conveyed by railways from the mines,
to the harbour here, for exportation ; the quantity of
coal shipped annually, is estimated at 120,000 tons ; of
limestone, 15,000 tons, and of shell-lime, about 400,000
bushels. The harbour is spacious, and has been deep-
ened and gi-eatly improved within the last few years,
and great facility of communication has recently been
afforded by the erection of a wooden pier, for the steam-
boats plying in the Frith, which touch at this place.
A school is supported by the Earl of Elgin.
CHARLESTON, a village, in the parish of Glam-
mis, county of Forfar, 1^ mile (S.) from Glammis ;
containing 34S inhabitants. This is a new village, fast
increasing in extent and population.
CHARLESTOWN, a village, in the parish of Aboyne
and Glentanner, district of Kincardine O'Neil,
county of Aberdeen, 5 miles (W.) from Kincardine
O'Neil ; containing 260 inhabitants. This thriving
place, formerly called Bunty, is pleasantly situated on
the western bank of the burn of Coull, near Aboyne
Castle, and is a burgh of barony, of which the Marquess
of Huntly is superior. The tollbooth, however, was de-
stroyed towards the close of the last century, and the
traces of the pot and gallows are now scarcely visible.
There are an excellent inn, several good shops, and
some flour, barley, and malt mills, and numerous per-
sons are employed in various handicraft trades ; a post-
office has been established, and the mail-coach to and
from Aberdeen passes through daily. A weekly market
is held, and there are five fairs annually. The village
contains a parochial school, and not far distant stands
the church.
CHARLESTOWN, a village, in the parish of Aber-
lour, county of Banff, 5 miles (N. W. by W.) from
Dufftown ; containing 328 inhabitants. This village
was founded in the year 1812, by its proprietor, Charles
Grant, Esq., who erected it into a burgh of barony, by
the name of Charlestown of Aberlour ; it is about half a
mile in extent, comprising nearly all the holm lands of
the district, and is neatly built. The inhabitants are
chiefly employed in agricultural pursuits ; there is a
good inn, and fairs are held on the first Thursday in
April, the Thursday before the 21st of May, and the
second Thursdays in July and November. The female
school for the parish is situated in the village, and affords
instruction chiefly in sewing and English reading.
CHARLESTOWN, a hamlet, in the parish of
Knockbain, county of Ross and Cromarty ; contain-
ing S7 inhabitants.
CHERRY BANK, a village, in the East parish of
the city and county of Perth ; containing 157 inhabit-
ants.
197
CHESTERHILL, with Sauchenside, a village, in
the parish of Cranston, county of Edinburgh, 1 mile
(S. W.) from Cranston ; containing 284 inhabitants.
CHESTERS, a village, in the parish of South dean,
district of Jedburgh, county of Roxburgh, 6 miles
(S.) from Jedburgh; containing S2 inhabitants. The
village is seated between the Rule and Jedburgh waters,
from which it is equidistant ; and from its central situ-
ation, it contains the church. On the adjacent heights
are the ruins of some strong fortifications or camps ;
their form is circular, and, in general, they are quite
distinct, and each is apparently within view of South-
dean Law, which, according to tradition, was a place of
observation, where fires were lighted on the approach of
an enemy.
CHIRNSIDE, a parish and burgh of barony, in the
county of Berwick, 4| miles (S. W. by W.) from Ayton ;
containing 1203 inhabitants. The name of this place
is interpreted " the Sepulchral Tumulus on the side of
the hill." The parish is about three miles in length,
and the same in breadth, and contains upwards of 5000
acres ; the surface is flat, with the exception of Chirn-
side hill, in the northern part, from which some beauti-
ful prospects are obtained. The Whiteadder river runs
along the southern boundary of the parish, and is here
a fine expansive stream, being but a small distance from
its junction with the Tweed near Berwick : close to the
northern boundary, flows the Eye water. There is no
waste land ; the soil is good, and in a high state of cul-
tivation. About 370 acres are under plantations, which
are in a thriving state, especially those on the banks of
the Whiteadder, at Ninewells ; about one-half of the
rest of the land is in tillage, and the other in grass. All
kinds of grasses and of grain are produced, of good
quality, but oats form the most considerable crop ;
potatoes and turnips are also raised, and the latter are
very fine and plentiful. About 2500 sheep are usually
kept, which are the large Leieesters, and the cattle are
of the short-horned breed ; draining has been practised
to a great extent, and large sums have lately been ex-
pended in embankments on the river Whiteadder. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £8891. The rocks
consist of freestone, which is abundant, and of which
several quarries are wrought. The village is in the
south- western part of the parish ; it has a fair on the
last Thursday in November, for the sale of sackcloth,
linen-yarn, and pottery-ware ; and the road from Dunse
to Ayton runs through the centre of it. The principal
mansions are, Whitehall, Ninewells, and Mains. The
ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the presbytery of
Chirnside and synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; patron,
Mitchell Innes, Esq. The minister's stipend is £247,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £29 per annum.
The church, which is very ancient, is in tolerable repair;
the western door is Saxon, and on one of the walls,
evidently of later erection, is a tablet dated 1572, with
the inscription Helpe the Pur ; the edifice affords ac-
commodation for 500 persons. The United Associate
Synod have a place of worship, as have also the Re-
formed Presbyterian Congregation. There is a paro-
chial school, in which are taught the classics, mathe-
matics, and French, with all the usual branches of
education ; the master's salary is £34, with about £30
fees, and a house and garden. Until very recently there
existed a circulating library, established forty years
C L A C
C L A C
ago. The celebrated historian, David Hume, was brought
up, from his infancy, at Niuewells House ; and the Rev.
Henry Erskine, father of the Rev. Ebenezer and Ralph
Erskine, leaders of the Secession, was the first minister
here after the Revolution : a handsome monument has
lately been erected to his memory, in the churchyard.
CHRYSTON, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Cadder, Lower ward of county Lanark ; in-
cluding the villages of Mollensburn, Moodiesburn, and
Muirhead, and the hamlet of Auchinloch, and contain-
ing 26/0 inhabitants, of which number 555 are in the
village of Chryston, 7 miles (E. by N.) from Glasgow.
The district is formed of the eastern half of the parish of
Cadder, and comprises about eleven square miles, its
greatest length being four and a half, and its greatest
breadth three and a quarter miles. The village is hand-
somely built and pleasantly situated, and but for the
want of water, which is obtained only from the well of
Bedlay, nearly a quarter of a mile distant, and difficult
of access, might become a more populous and flourish-
ing place. A fair, chiefly for the sale of fat cattle, was
formerly held here, at Martinmas ; but it has been for
some time discontinued. The ecclesiastical affairs are
under the presbytery of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr. The church is a handsome structure, built
by subscription of the inhabitants ; the stone for its
erection was quarried by the labourers, and hauled,
together with the lime and other materials, by the
farmers without any charge ; it will accommodate 564
persons, and is well attended. The stipend of the
minister is £90, derived from seat-rents, with a manse
and garden, valued at £10 per annum. A cemetery has
been purchased, and is now appropriated to interment.
One of the parochial schools is situated here ; and a
library has been recently established. The ancient tomb
of the family of Gray, former proprietors, is here crossed
by the line of road leading to Cumbernauld.
CLACHAN, a village, chiefly in the parish of Camp-
sie, but partly in that of Fintry, county of Stirling,
2 miles (W.) from Lennoxtown ; containing 191 inha-
bitants. This village, called the Clachan of Campsie,
is romautically situated in the vicinity of copse woods
and secluded valleys, which are much resorted to in
summer. The hills above it bend in the form of an
amphitheatre, and numerous streams pour down the
winding glens into the Glassert, a rivulet which rises in
Campsie fells, and falls into the Kelvin above Kirkin-
tilloch. A bleachfield, for the preparation of various
kinds of muslin, was established here in IS 19. The
village formerly contained the parochial church.
CLACHAN, ST. JOHN'S, a village, in the parish
of Dalry, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 15 miles
(N. N. W.) from Castle-Douglas ; containing 5/4 in-
habitants. This village, which is situated on the banks
of the river Ken, was built upon lands leased for the
purpose, by the Earl of Galloway. The houses, to each
of which is attached a portion of land for a garden, are
neatly built ; and the village, which is spacious, has a
pleasingly rural aspect. A branch post-office, under
the office of Castle- Douglas, has been established; and
a pleasure-fair, called the Clachan Race, is held annu-
ally. Coaches pass through daily, between Ayr and
Kirkcudbright. An ancient stone named St. John's
Chair, formerly in the old church, dedicated to St. John,
is still preserved here; and also a stone with the in-
19S
scription " P. G. VII.," supposed to have been the foun-
dation stone of a chapel erected in the time of Pope
Gregory VII.
CLACHNAHARRY, a village, in the parish and
county of Inverness, 1 mile (W.) from Inverness ; con-
taining 260 inhabitants. This place, which is situated
on the shore of Beauly loch, a continuation of the
Moray Frith, takes its name from a rocky eminence
now called the Watchman's Stone, on which sentinels
were anciently placed, to give intelligence of the ap-
proach of any hostile forces of the neighbouring clans ;
and in commemoration of one of the numerous conflicts
that occurred here, a lofty column was erected on the
spot, by the late H. R. Duff, Esq., of Muirtown. The
village forms a suburb to the burgh of Inverness, and
is much resorted to for the wildly romantic scenery,
and the numerous interesting features, in its immediate
vicinity. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in fish-
ing, and in the building of boats, for which its situation
near the union of the Caledonian canal with the Frith,
renders it peculiarly appropriate ; a small pier has
been constructed near the sea-lock of the canal, and
contributes greatly to the benefit of the place and neigh-
bourhood.
CLACKMANNAN, the county town, and a parish,
in the county of Clackmannan, 2 miles (E. S. E.) from
Alloa ; containing, with the villages of Nevvtonshaw and
Kennet, 5145 inhabitants, of whom 1077 are in the
town. This place, of which the name, in the Gaelic
language, signifies the church town of Annan, anciently
belonged to the Annandale family, of whom the last
heiress, Agnes, conveyed it, by marriage, to the ances-
tor of the royal family of Bruce, on his first settling
in Scotland, in the 12th century. The tower of Clack-
mannan is said to have been built by King Robert
Bruce, on the site of the baronial residence of the
family, soon after his accession to the throne ; and it
appears to have been the residence of several of his
successors, kings of Scotland, till 1330, when it was
granted by David II., to his kinsman, Robert Bruce,
first lord of Clackmannan. The lordship continued in
possession of the descendants of that family, till the
male line became extinct by the death of Henry Bruce,
the last lord, in 1772, after which, on the decease of
his lady, the lands became divided among various
proprietors.
The town is beautifully situated on an eminence
rising gently from the Forth, to a height of 190 feet,
and chiefly consists of one street. In the centre are
the remains of the ancient tollbooth, of which only the
steeple is standing ; the gaol and court-house, formerly
attached, are now in ruins, and a county-hall has
recently been erected to the north of the town, though
the courts are invariably held, and the public busi-
ness transacted, at Alloa. The houses are irregularly
built, and of very mean appearance ; in addition to
those in the principal street, are several rows of cot-
tages, mostly inhabited by persons employed in the
collieries. There are two public subscription libraries.
Several of the inhabitants are engaged in various handi-
craft trades, and there are numerous shops for different
wares ; but, from the proximity of Alloa, very little
business is transacted. Two markets are held yearly,
and there is a post-office subordinate to that, of Alloa ;
facility of intercourse is afforded by good roads, and
C L A C
C L A C
by the steamers that ply between Grant-on Pier and
Stirling, which call at Alloa and at Kincardine, in the
adjoining parish of Tulliallan, and provide for the inha-
bitants an easy and very cheap means of communication
with Edinburgh and the intermediate places.
The parish is bounded on the south-west by the
river Forth, for about two miles and a half, and thence
stretches towards the river Devon, by which it is
bounded on the north. It is nearly six miles in length,
and comprises an area of about 8000 acres, of which
6000 are arable and pasture, I'OO woodland and plan-
tations, and the remainder waste. The surface, for
more than a mile from the bank of the Forth, is level
carse land, beyond which it rises in gentle undulations
to the vale through which the Black Devon flows,
and thence, more precipitously, to the vale of the
Devon. The Black Devon has its source in the hills
of the parish of Saline, on the east, and, after sweeping
roinid the western base of the hill on which the tower
of Clackmannan is situated, flows into the Forth about
two miles from the town. The Forth is about one
mile in breadth opposite the parish, having been consi-
derably contracted by an embankment, by which a
considerable portion of land has been gained from it.
The soil, though various, and resting chiefly on a cold
tilly subsoil, is not unfertile ; the chief crops are, oats,
barley, wheat, turnips, and potatoes. The system of
husbandry has been improved under the auspices of
the Clackmannanshire Agricultural Society ; the lands
have been well drained and partly inclosed, and the
farm-houses and offices are generally substantial and
commodious. The cattle are mostly of a mixed de-
scription, but there are also several of the Teeswater,
and many of the Ayrshire breed. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £13,704. The plantations are
principally oak, larch, and Scotch and spruce firs; they
are well managed, and in a thriving state.
The substrata are ironstone and coal, which are very
abundant, and sandstone, of which there are several
quarries. The coal field contains eleven workable
seams, varying from two to nine feet in thickness, and
of which the lowest is found at a depth of 1 10 fathoms;
the most important, collieries are those of the Clack-
mannan, the Devon, and the Alloa Companies. The
seams principally wrought, are, the upper and under five
feet, the nine feet, and the three-and-a-half feet seams,
which are all of the best quality, and the upper two feet
seam, which is found only in the northern part of the
parish. The upper five, and nine, and two feet seams are
wrought by the Devon Company, chiefly for their smelt-
ing-works ; and the others, by the Clackmannan and
Alloa Companies. The aggregate quantity raised daily
is about 500 tons, of which 200 are consumed in the
parish, and the remainder conveyed by railroads from
the mines, to be shipped to various parts of Scotland,
for which facility is afforded by the harbour of Ken-
netpans, and the construction of extensively-projecting
piers, at the mouth of the Black Devon. The collieries
give employment to about 700 men. The Devon Com-
pany's iron-works in the parish, are situated on the
banks of the river Devon, and employ three furnaces,
for the making of pig-iron, of which about 6000 tons
are annually produced ; and connected with the works,
is an extensive foundry, in which large quantities of
east-iron goods are made. At Kilbagie is a distillery,
199
which has been long established, but at present no
operations are carried on ; the buildings occupy an
area of nearly seven acres, inclosed with a high wall,
and for their supply with grain, S50 acres of land
were formerly expressly cultivated. The works were
carried on upon a very extensive scale, and 700 cattle
were fed upon the premises ; the whisky was chiefly for
the London market. There is also a distillery near
the town, upon a smaller scale, chiefly for the home
market; a large brick and tile work has been esta-
blished, and there are three saw-mills, of which the
machinery is propelled by water.
The principal mansions in the parish are, Schaw
Park, a spacious ancient house, containing many hand-
some apartments, and finely situated in grounds taste-
fully embellished ; Kennet House, situated on rising
grounds overlooking the Forth ; Aberdona, in a beau-
tifully secluded spot; Brucefield ; Kennetpans, com-
manding a fine view of the Forth ; and Kilbagie, plea-
santly situated about a mile from the river. The
ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence of
the presbytery of Stirling and synod of Perth and
Stirling. The minister's stipend is £284, with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £16 per annum ; patron, the
Earl of Zetland. The church, erected about the year
1S20, is a handsome structure, with a tower of lofty
elevation, and contains 1300 sittings ; and an addi-
tional church has been recently erected, in the north-
west district of the parish, which contains 620 sittings.
There is a place of worship in the town for members
of the Relief Synod. The parochial school is well
attended ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house
and garden, in addition to the fees. The ancient tower
of Clackmannan is still tolerably entire ; it is eighty feet
high, and contains several apartments, and from the
summit, to which is an ascent by a spiral staircase, a
truly interesting prospect is obtained. On the banks
of the Devon are the remains of Sauchie Tower, for-
merly the seat of the Cathcart family, and now the
property of the Earl of Mansfield ; this tower is in
a still better state of preservation than that of Clack-
mannan.
CLACKMANNANSHIRE, a small county in the
interior of Scotland, bounded on the north and north-
west by Perthshire, from which it is separated by the
Ochil Hills ; on the east, by the county of Fife ; and
on the south and south-west, by the river Forth. It
lies between 56° 5' and 56° 14' (N. Lat.), and 3° 33' and
3° 56' (W. Long.), and is about ten miles in length, and
eight miles in extreme breadth ; comprising an area of
fifty-two square miles, or 33,280 acres; 3517 dwelling-
houses, of which 3406 are inhabited ; and a population
of 19,155, of whom 9386 are males, and 9769 females.
This county is in the synod of Perth and Stirling, and
comprises four entire parishes, with part of another.
For civil purposes, it is associated with the county of
Kinross, under one sheriff, who appoints a sheriff-sub-
stitute for each county ; and it contains the towns of
Clackmannan and Alloa, in the latter of which the
sheriff-substitute resides, and holds his courts, though
the quarter-sessions are occasionally held at Clack-
mannan. Under the act of the 2nd of William IV., the
county, jointly with that of Kinross, returns a member
to the imperial parliament.
The surface, for a considerable breadth from the
CLAR
CLAT
shore of the Forth, is level, but, towards the north, rises
rapidly, forming part of the Ochil range of hills, of
which Bencleugh, the highest, has an elevation of 2000
feet above the sea. The principal rivers are, the Forth,
the Devon, which, after a westerly course through a beau-
tifully romantic district, falls into the Forth to the west of
Alloa; and the Black Devon, which, after traversing the
county in direction nearly parallel with the Devon, flows
into the Forth not far from Clackmannan. There are
some small lakes, and an artificial sheet of water called
Gartmorn Dam, which is 160 acres in extent. About
two thirds of the land are arable, and the remainder
hill pasture ; the soil, in the lower districts, is exceed-
ingly rich and fertile, producing crops of grain of every
kind, and the higher lands afford good pasturage for
sheep and cattle. The system of agriculture is in a
highly improved state. The rateable annual value of the
county is £51, 522. The chief minerals are ironstone
and coal, both of which are extensively wrought ; and
of the former, more than 200,000 tons are annually
raised : silver-ore has been also found in some places.
The most important manufactures are those of tobacco
and snuff, flint and crown glass, steam-engines, and
machinery of all 'kinds, and the woollen manufacture,
which has been recently much extended ; there are also
extensive potteries, and brick and tile works, various
distilleries, breweries, and tanneries. Ship-building, and
the making of ropes and sails, are likewise carried on.
There are several remains of antiquity, among which
are the towers of Alloa and Clackmannan, of which the
latter was the residence of Robert Bruce ; Roman coins
have been found, and some sepulchral urns, and various
other relics.
CLAIRTOWN, ST., a village, in the parish of
Dysart, county of Fife, \ a mile (E.) from Kirkcaldy ;
containing 1511 inhabitants. This village immediately
adjoins that of Pathhead, with which it has become in-
corporated, and of which it forms the more modern
portion, being separated only by the great road to Dun-
dee. It is built upon the estate of Sinclair, the pro-
perty of the Earl of Rosslyn, extending in one continued
line for about a mile northwards. The inhabitants are
chiefly weavers. — See Pathhead.
CLAREBRAND, a hamlet, in the parish of Cross-
michael, stewartry of Kirkcudbright; containing
54 inhabitants.
CLARENCEFIELD, a village, in the parish of Ruth -
well, county of Dumfries, &\ miles (W. by N.) from
Annan ; containing 86 inhabitants. It is situated near
the road between Dumfries and Cummertrees, and a
short distance west of Ruthwell church. On each side
of the village is a stream which discharges itself, at the
distance of about a mile, into the Solway Frith.
CLARKSTON, late a quoad sacra parish, including
the villages of Arden and Ballochney, in the Middle
ward of the county of Lanark, 1^ mile (E.) from Air-
drie ; containing 4526 inhabitants. The parish was
formed of the south-eastern portion of that of New
Monkland and part of that of Shotts; it was seven miles
in length, and three in breadth, lying chiefly along the
south side of a pretty high dorse, which runs from west
to east. The soil is in general a cold clay ; in some
parts is deep moss, and on the lands of Auchiagray and
Brownicside are considerable plantations. Agricultural
improvement in this quarter has been much neglected,
200
owing, in some measure, to the distance from which
lime can be obtained, but chiefly to the attention of the
proprietors of land having been turned to successful
searches after minerals, by which large fortunes have
been realised. Numerous iron-mines are now in opera-
tion, and. the whole district abounds in coal. Contiguous
to the village, are thej Clarkston cotton, and Moffat
paper, mills, and at the village of Gartness is an iron-
rolling mill : the ores are forwarded to another parish
to be manufactured. The Ballochney and Whiterigg
railway runs along the north side of the district, which
is also intersected by the middle road from Glasgow to
Edinburgh. Besides the villages of Clarkston, Arden,
and Ballochney, are five villages of considerabje size,
and many of smaller extent and more recent erection, for
the accommodation of the miners and other work-people,
of whom the increase of late years has been very great ;
and in various places are handsome seats and modern
residences. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the pres-
bytery of Hamilton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
The church, which is of plain rubble workmanship, was
erected in 1836-7, ^t. a cost of about £1480 ; it contains
730 sittings, and is surrounded by a neat burial-ground.
The stipend of the minister is £70, and the patronage
is vested in the male communicants. There are four
schools, built by masters of public works. In the east
corner of the district, is the great reservoir for supply-
ing the Clyde and Forth canal.
CLARKSTON, a village, in the parish of Cathcart,
Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 2 miles (S. by
W.) from Cathcart ; containing 180 inhabitants. It lies
on the south-western confines of the parish, and on the
road from Eaglesham to Cathcart. In the village is a
good school, chiefly frequented, from its contiguity to
Busby, in the parish of Mearns, by the children of that
place ; the master has an endowment of £10 per an-
num, from the proprietors of the public works at
Busby.
CLASHNESSIE, a village, in the late quoad sacra pa-
rish of Stoer, parish of Assynt, county Sutherland,
13 miles (N. W. by W.) from Assynt; containing 19-1
inhabitants. This place is seated at the head of a small
bay bearing its own name, and on a promontory in
which are several lakes, and numerous indentations
round the coast. On the north-east are Oldernay bay
and island.
CLATHY, a village, in the parish of Findogask,
county of Perth, 4f miles (N. N. E.) from Auchter-
arder ; containing 120 inhabitants. It is situated on
the road from Dunning to Balgowan, and is the only
village in the parish.
CLATT, a parish, in the district of Alford, county
of Aberdeen, 10 miles (S.) from Huntly ; containing
524 inhabitants. The Gaelic word Cleith, or Cleit,
signifying " concealed," appears to have given the name
to this place, in consequence of its secluded situation, it
being hidden from view on all sides. The parish is in
the western extremity of the Garioch district, and mea-
sures about four miles in length, and from two to three
in breadth, comprising 5130 acres, of which 2800 are
under cultivation, 250 pasture, 200 wood, and the re-
mainder waste and undivided common. It consists of
an uninterrupted plain, with the exception of a portion
of hilly ground on the north-west, and some rising
grounds on the declivity of the Suie and Coreen hills,
C L A T
C L E I
which bound it on the south, and belong to a mountain
range extending from east to west, for more than twenty
miles. The Water of Bogie separates the parish, on the
north, from that of Rhynie ; and it is also indebted,
for a considerable relief to its generally uninteresting
aspect, to the meandering course of the Gady- stream,
which, receiving numerous mountain rivulets, turns
twelve threshing-mills and a meal-mill, within the dis-
tance of two miles, and, after traversing a well-cultivated
country, falls into the Urie. The land which has been
longest in cultivation consists of a rich, deep, loamy
soil, lying on a bed of sand or rock ; and the basis. of
most of the remaining portion of the best land is clay,
appearing under various modifications, according to the
manures which have been applied. The other parts
comprise alluvial matter, with sand and clay, especially
on the lands recovered by draining ; light earth on
sand or rock, in the higher grounds ; and heath, moor,
and peat-moss. Agriculture is carried on with all the
modern improvements, and the quality of the soil gene-
rally is favourable to the production of rich and heavy
crops ; but a serious obstacle is presented by the defi-
ciency of shelter, the parish having an elevation of 600
feet, and being in the vicinity of a mountain 1300 feet
high. Great and successful efforts, however, have been
made to advance husbandry to a high state of excellence,
and within the last twenty years more than 300 acres
of moss and moor have been reclaimed by extensive
drainage ; larch and Scotch fir have recently been
planted on the hills along the southern boundary, and
there are some on the lower grounds which present an
agreeable appearance. The breed of cattle has been
greatly improved, and is a cross between the native and
the short-horned. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £'2940. Granite, whinstone, serpentine, and
clay-slate, are the principal rocks, and, in many parts,
are so near the surface as to render the expense of
quarrying unnecessary. There is, however, a mine of
rock composed of hornblende, quartz, and felspar ; and
near the mansion-house of Knockespoch, the residence
of the principal heritor, a species of variegated marble
has been discovered, but too soft and splintry for use.
The village of Clatt, beautifully ornamented with
many old ash and plane trees, is a decayed burgh of
barony, containing only a few houses. It received its
erection from James IV., in 1501, with power to appoint
bailies and other officers, and to hold fairs every year,
and a weekly market, which latter has long since fallen
into disuse, though some of the inhabitants remember
the ancient cross. There are still fairs held at Whitsun-
tide and Martinmas, the former for the sale of sheep
and black-cattle, and the hiring of servants, and the
latter for grain, and as a feeing-market. The parish is
in the presbytery of Alford and synod of Aberdeen, and
in the patronage of the Crown ; the minister's stipend
is £15S. 11. 4., of which about a seventh partis received
from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe valued
at £9 per annum. The church, which is a very ancient
edifice, was thoroughly repaired and re-seated in 1S28,
and contains sittings for 290 persons. The parochial
school affords instruction in Latin, book-keeping, ma-
thematics, and all the usual branches ; the master has
a salary of £25. 13. 4., with a house, an allowance from
Dick's bequest, and £10 fees. This parish was the
scene of a fray, in 1572, between the rival clans of
Vol. I. — 201
Forbes and Gordon, in which the latter slew Arthur
Forbes, son of Lord Forbes, and commonly called Black
Arthur from his dark complexion, and carried the pur-
suit to the gates of Castle-Forbes, now Druminnor, the
family seat of the clan Forbes. Near the village is an
eminence called " Gallows Knoll," the ancient place of
execution.
CLAYBARNS, a village, in the parish of Newton,
county of Edinburgh, £ of a mile (E. by S.) from
Newton; containing 1S7 inhabitants. It lies east of
the high road from Dalkeith to Edinburgh.
CLAYHOUSE, a village, in the parish of Borth-.
wick, county of Edinburgh, 2 miles (E. by N.) from
Carrington ; containing 84 inhabitants. It is in the
northern part of the parish, a short distance east of the
high road from Middleton to Cockpen, and derives its
name from an ancient inn, built of clay, which stood by
the way-side, and of which a part still remains, though
materially altered. The village borders on a detached
portion of Temple parish, and several cottages have
lately been erected in the neighbourhood.
CLAYSLAP, a village, in the Barony parish, and
within the jurisdiction of the city of Glasgow, in the
county of Lanark. The inhabitants' are chiefly em-
ployed in the several works in the immediate vicinity.
CLEISH, a parish, in the county of Kinross, 3 miles
(S. S. W.) from Kinross ; containing, with the villages
of Kelty and Maryburgh, 6S1 inhabitants. This place,
of which the name is of uncertain derivation, is distin-
guished by its having formed part of the route taken by
Mary, Queen of Scots, on her flight from the castle of
Lochleven, which circumstance is commemorated by
the insertion of a stone in a bridge at the eastern ex-
tremity of the parish, recording that event, and marking
out the road. The parish is about six miles and a half
in length, and one and a half in average breadth. The
surface is diversified with hills, which form a continuous
range between this parish and Dunfermline, and of
which the highest is Dumglow, rising 1215 feet above
the sea ; the summit is flat, commanding an extensive
view over the surrounding country, from almost every
part of which it is a conspicuous object. The next in
height are the hills called the Ingans, which are all
more than 1000 feet in elevation. The chief stream is the
Gairney, which, after forming the boundary of the parish
for nearly five miles, falls into Loch Leven ; it abounds
with trout of a small size, and there are some smaller
streams issuing from the lakes, and numerous springs
of excellent water, affording an abundant supply. Of
the several lakes, Loch Glow is two miles and a half
in circumference, and the others of very inferior extent ;
the fish found in them are, pike, perch, eels, and a few
trout. The scenery has been much improved by recent
plantations, and there are some fine specimens of stately
timber, some of which are of extraordinary growth ; the
slopes of several of the hills, and the summits of others,
are finely planted. Blair-Adam, the seat of Sir Charles
Adam, is a handsome residence, pleasantly situated.
The soil is much varied j in the lower grounds,
clayey, intermixed with a little gravel ; in other parts,
of a lighter quality ; with some portions of deep moss,
which, when brought into cultivation, is extremely rich.
The chief crops are, oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and
turnips, with various grasses, which grow luxuriantly in
many parts ; and the hills afford good pasture for sheep
- 2D
CLO S
CL O S
and cattle. Very important improvements have been
made, by which a large extent of unprofitable land has
been brought into cultivation ; draining has been car-
ried on with great spirit, and the system of husbandry
is in a very forward state. Considerable attention is paid
to the rearing of stock ; the sheep pastured on the hills
are generally of the black-faced breed, and those on the
lower lands, of the Leicestershire breed ; the cattle are
the Kinross-shire, Angus, and Fifeshire. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £5535. The principal sub-
strata are, whinstone, greywacke, and sandstone, of
which the hills are mostly composed; limestone is
quarried, and coal is found here in seams of upwards of
thirty feet in thickness. Whinstone is wrought for
mending the roads, and there are extensive quarries
of freestone ; from one of the quarries, about 14,000
cubic feet are raised annually. At Blair-Adam, is a
post-office, a branch of that of Kinross ; and facility of
communication with the neighbouring towns is main-
tained by good roads, of which the turnpike-roads from
Queensferry and from Dunfermline to Kinross pass
through the parish. Cleish is in the presbytery of Dun-
fermline and synod of Fife, and patronage of Harry
Young, Esq. ; the minister's stipend is £156. 15. 4., of
which about a half is paid from the exchequer, with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £14 per annum. The
old church, erected in 1744, was accidentally destroyed
by fire in 1832, and the present church, erected in its
place, is a handsome edifice, adapted for a congregation
of 500 persons. The parochial school is well attended ;
the master has a salary of £34, with £26 fees, and a
house and garden.
CLETT ISLE, in the parish of Assynt, county of
Sutherland. It is situated on the western coast of
the county, and is a high rock, considerably above the
greatest tide and surge, and, except in one or two places,
is of difficult access. Its form is somewhat round, and
on its summit is excellent herbage.
CLEUGHBRAE, a hamlet, in the parish of Mouse-
wald, county of Dumfries, 6 miles (E. by S.) from
Dumfries ; containing 53 inhabitants. It is on the high
road from Annan to Dumfries.
CLIFTON, a village, in the late quoad sacra parish
of Strathfillan, parish of Killin, county of Perth ;
containing 159 inhabitants. It lies in the north-western
portion of the parish, near Tyndrum, and is a small
place, formerly occupied by miners employed in working
a lead-mine in the vicinity.
CLIMPY, a small hamlet, in the parish of Carn-
wath, county of Lanark, 7 miles (N.) from Carn-
wath. This place, situated in a coal district, in the
northern part of the parish, is inhabited by persons
employed in the collieries. There was formerly a chapel,
which is fallen into decay, and the cottages are in a
ruinous state.
CLOSEBURN, a parish, in the county of Dum-
fries ; containing 1530 inhabitants, of whom 123 are
in the village, 2§ miles (S. S. E.) from Thornhill. This
place, anciently called Kill-Osburn, from Cella Osburni,
was formerly remarkable for its very ancient castle,
which belonged, for many centuries, together with the
parish, to the family of Kirkpatrick. By a charter in
the possession of a branch of this family, it appears
that Ivon de Kirkpatrick obtained a confirmation of the
lands, granted to his ancestors by Alexander II., in
202
1232. The parish of Closeburn was afterwards annexed
to the abbey of Holyrood House, and the parish of Dal-
garno, now included within the limits of Closeburn, to
the abbey of Kelso ; but the family of Kirkpatrick pos-
sessed the patronage of both churches, as well as the
larger part of the lands. In the year 1606, these
churches were united by the General Assembly, held at
Linlithgow, in which union they continued till 1648,
when they were disjoined, and so remained until 1697,
when Dalgarno was again annexed to Closeburn.
The parish is ten miles in extreme length, and seven
and a half in extreme breadth, and contains 30,189
acres. One of its principal features is the valley of
Closeburn, situated in the mountain range, composed
chiefly of transition rock, which runs across the island
from the German to the Atlantic Ocean. The surface
of the parish gradually rises from the western extremity,
till it attains its highest elevation at the north-eastern
boundary, at which part Queensberry hill, one of the
highest in the south of Scotland, and sometimes called
the Queen of Hills, rises 2140 feet above the level of
the sea. The land in the western and midland districts
is chiefly in tillage ; but there are considerable plan-
tations towards the east and north, and in this direc-
tion the high grounds consist of extensive moors,
unfit for the plough, though affording good pasture for
sheep. The river Nith runs along the south-western,
and the Cample along the western, boundary of the
parish ; and among the numerous smaller streams, the
most distinguished is the Crickup, which, falling over a
precipice ninety feet high, forms the celebrated cascade
known by the name of " Grey mare's tail." The course
of this stream is beautified by much bold and romantic
scenery, especially at Crickup Linn, a second fall, where
the stream, running through old worn massive rocks,
and shrouded from the eye in its passage by rich and
varied foliage, presents a singularly interesting scene,
which the author of IVaverley has compared to the
retreat of Balfour of Burleigh, in Lanarkshire.
Along the river Nith the soil is a fine rich loam ;
higher up, it is a sandy gravel to the depth of twenty
feet, well adapted to barley and turnips ; and as the
ground further rises, it is of the same nature, but strong
and deep, with a mixture of clay, which feature it retains
till it reaches the high land. About 5683 acres are
under tillage, and 23,006 in pasture ; the natural woods
and plantations cover about 1500 acres. All kinds of
grain are produced, with green crops ; the cattle con-
sist of the Galloway and Ayrshire breeds, to the raising
of which great attention is paid, and the sheep are of
the short black-faced breed. A lime rock was dis-
covered many years ago, of great extent, of which
advantage was taken by the proprietor of the parish,
who applied the contents of it so plentifully, that very
large quantities of sterile ground, much of which was
moor, was brought into cultivation ; and from this
period the inhabitants date the rise of their present
flourishing system of husbandry. A plantation of ninety
acres was recently cut down, consisting of Scotch fir
sixty years old, and was disposed of for £10,000; the
soil upon which it grew was poor and sandy, and not
worth sixpence per acre when the trees were planted.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £11,873.
The rocks consist of greywacke, limestone, and old red
sandstone. The limestone quarry consists of two dis-
CLUN
C LU N
tinct beds of different qualities, separated from each other
by about eighteen feet of impure limestone ; the upper
bed is of too caustie a nature for the soil, but the
under bed is wrought, and supplies an immense quan-
tity of lime manure. Closeburn Hall, the seat of Sir
Charles Stuart Menteath, Bart., is a spacious struc-
ture after the Grecian style, and situated in one of
the most beautiful valleys in the south of Scotland.
There are two turnpike-roads, one of which connects
Annandale with Nithsdale, and the other forms a part
of the great road from Carlisle to Glasgow, by Dum-
fries, and, at a distance of four miles northward, has a
branch to Edinburgh. The ecclesiastical affairs are
directed by the presbytery of Penpont and synod of
Dumfries ; patron, Sir Charles Menteath. There is a
substantial and commodious manse, with a glebe of 1 1
acres, valued at £19 per annum ; the minister's stipend
is £"234. 19. 3. The church was built in 1741, and has,
within these few years, been thoroughly repaired ; it is
a handsome building, conveniently situated, and will
accommodate 650 persons with sittings. The principal
school, which is of some eminence, is a free school, con-
ducted by a rector and assistants. It was endowed in
1723, by John Wallace, Esq., a native of the parish,
and a wealthy Glasgow merchant, who left £1600, part
of which was to be appropriated to the erection of pre-
mises, and the remainder to be invested in land for
the master's salary, which at the present time amounts
to £500 a year. In this valuable institution, called Wal-
lace Hall from the name of its founder, the children of
the parish may obtain gratuitous instruction in Greek,
Latin, book-keeping, and all the ordinary branches of
education. The chief relic of antiquity is the castle, which
is a vaulted quadrilateral tower, about fifty feet high,
thirty-three long, and forty-five broad ; the walls of the
ground-floor are twelve feet thick, and it is conjectured,
from the general style of the building, that it must be
800 years old. There are also several large cairns in
the parish.
CLOVA, county Forfar. — See Cortachy.
CLUNIE, a parish, in the county of Perth, 5 miles
(W. by S.) from Blairgowrie ; containing 763 inhabit-
ants. This place, which is of remote antiquity, is dis-
tinguished as the scene of a battle between the Caledo-
nians and the Romans under Agricola. In a field near
the Hill of Gourdie, are still remaining several mounds,
in a parallel direction, separated by trenches of equal
length, called the " Steeds Stalls ;" and here the ad-
vanced guard of the Caledonian army was posted to
watch the movements of the Roman army, which was
encamped on the plains of Inchtuthill, about two miles
to the south. There are also, in several places, nume-
rous cairns and tumuli, which are generally supposed to
have been raised over the bodies of those who fell in
the engagement. On the summit of an eminence to
the west of Loch Clunie, called the Castle Hill, are some
vestiges of a very ancient structure, said to have been
a summer palace of Kenneth Mc Alpine, King of the
Scots. He conquered the Picts, and united the two
kingdoms, the respective boundaries of which are pointed
out by two immense heaps of stones, one in the north-
west, and the other in the north-east of the parish.
The barony anciently belonged to the see of Dunkeld ;
and about the commencement of the sixteenth century,
an episcopal palace was erected on an island in Loch
203
Clunie, by Bishop Brown, who died in 1514. This,
together with the barony, now the property of the Earl
of Airlie, was granted by Bishop Crichton, about the
time of the Reformation, to his brother, Sir Robert
Crichton, of Elliock Castle, in the county of Dumfries,
whose son, the Admirable Crichton, is supposed to have
been born at this place.
The parish, which is intersected by an intervening
portion of that of Caputh, is about nine miles in length,
and four in extreme breadth, and is supposed to contain
about S000 acres, of which nearly 3000 are arable, and
the remainder moss, heath, and mountain pasture. The
surface is mountainous, interspersed with considerable
tracts of low ground, watered by numerous small
streams. The highest of the mountains is Benachally,
which, in a clear state of the atmosphere, commands
extensive and beautifully varied prospects ; on the north
side are the remains of the forest of Clunie, said to
have been a royal forest, and at its base is the loch of
Benachally, about a mile in length, and half a mile
broad. Higher up among the hills is the small lake of
Lochnachat, which, like the former, abounds with ex-
cellent trout ; and about four miles to the south is the
beautiful Loch Clunie, about two miles and a half in
circumference, and eighty-four feet in extreme depth.
In it are found trout from two to ten pounds in weight,
pike from twelve to twenty-four pounds, and perch and
eels of large size and excellent quality. Near the western
shore of this lake is the island on which the ancient
palace was built, the walls of which are nine feet in
thickness ; it is in good preservation, and occasionally
the residence of the Earl of Airlie. The island, which
is a fine verdant plain, embellished with plantations,
among which are some trees of venerable growth, is
mostly artificial ; and in addition to the palace, now
Clunie Castle, are the site and some slight remains of
an ancient chapel.
The soil is various, and, though light and gravelly
in many parts, produces abundant crops of oats, barley,
and wheat, with peas and potatoes of excellent quality ;
the system of agriculture is improved. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £5706. The plantations
have been greatly increased in extent, and are gene-
rally thriving ; they consist chiefly of larch, and spruce
and Scotch firs, and many of the lands previously
covered with heath and furze, are now embellished with
well-grown trees. Limestone is found on the lands of
Gourdie, and is wrought for manure ; there are also
some quarries of freestone and slate. Forneth, a seat
in the parish, on the north-west bank of Loch Clunie,
is beautifully situated on an eminence, at the base of
which the Lunan flows into the lake. Gourdie is a
spacious mansion, on high ground a little to the south
of the lake, commanding a rich prospect over the sur-
rounding country. Williamsburgh is the only village of
any importance ; the inhabitants are partly employed
in hand-loom weaving during the winter. The eccle-
siastical affairs are under the superintendence of the
presbytery of Dunkeld and synod of Perth and Stirling.
The minister's stipend is £173, "with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £6 per annum ; patrons, the Duke of
Atholl and the Earl of Airlie, alternately. The church,
erected in 1840, at the expense of the heritors, is a
handsome structure in the later English style, with an
embattled tower crowned by turrets at the angles, and
2D 2
CL Y N
C L Y N
contains 600 sittings. A place of worship has been
erected in connexion with the Free Church. The paro-
chial school is attended by about forty children ; the
master has a salary of £34, with a house, and an allow-
ance in lieu of garden. There is a parochial library,
supported by subscription. On the eastern acclivity of
the mountain of Benachally, is a large cavern called the
Drop, from the roof of which water is perpetually drop-
ping ; and at the base of the mountain, is a sepulchral
cairn, to the south of which are numerous smaller cairns.
To the north of a hill named Stanley Know, is some
rising ground called Gallow Drum ; and near the glebe
land is another, styled Gibbet Know : both are sup-
posed to have been places of execution during the feudal
times.
CLUNY, a parish, in the district of Kincardine
O'Neil, county of Aberdeen, 15 miles (W. by N.)
from Aberdeen ; containing 959 inhabitants. The name
of this place, signifying, in Gaelic, meadows interspersed
with rising grounds, is descriptive of the appearance of
the locality. The parish is about ten miles, from east
to west, in length, and about two in breadth ; the soil is
mostly warm and dry, and the lands are intersected by
several rivulets, some of them of considerable size,
flowing in different directions, from the surrounding
hills, and sometimes overflowing the adjacent low
grounds. In the western part is a mountain called the
forest of Corranie, forming the boundary of the parish,
and which, though now destitute of wood, was formerly,
it is said, remarkable for a profusion of it. The rent of
land averages thirteen shillings per acre ; agricultural
improvements have been for a considerable time steadily
advancing, and the generally level surface is favourable
to the operations of husbandry. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £4425. The gentlemen's seats
comprise the handsome castle of Cluny, Castle- Fraser,
and the recently built mansion-house of Linton ; the se-
cond was erected in the beginning of the fifteenth century,
and many improvements have been carried into effect
by the respective proprietors. The produce of the pa-
rish is usually sent to Aberdeen, the Skene and Alford
turnpike-road passing through, and affording facility
for its transit. Many of the inhabitants were formerly
employed in the knitting of stockings. The parish is in
the presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil and synod of Aber-
deen ; and the Crown, the proprietor of Cluny, and the
proprietor of Castle-Fraser, are alternate patrons, the
first exercising patronage on account of half of the old
parish of Kinnerny having been annexed to Cluny in
1743. The minister's stipend is £173. 16. J.,\ with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum. The
church is a plain substantial edifice, erected in lieu of
the former building, which had become ruinous, in
1789. There is a place of worship for members of the
Free Church. The parochial school affords instruction
in the ordinary branches ; the master has a salary of
£25. 13. 4., with an allowance for a garden, and £14
fees : he also shares in the Dick bequest, and receives
the interest of £200, left by Mr. Robertson, for teach-
ing eight poor children.
CLYDESDALE.— See Lanarkshire.
CLYNE, a parish, in the county of Sutherland,
6 miles (N. E.) from Golspie ; containing, with the vil-
lage of Brora, 1765 inhabitants. This parish is about
twenty-four miles in length, from north-west to south-
204
east, and from six to eight in breadth, and contains
65,000 acres ; it is bounded on the south-east by the
German Ocean. The surface, in the well-cultivated dis-
trict along the coast, is tame, but, in other parts, greatly
diversified, comprising the most prominent and charac-
teristic features of Highland scenery. The glens and
lakes, adorned with natural woods and plantations, as
seen from the vicinity of Killean, which also commands
a prospect of the abrupt precipices overhanging Loch
Brora, and the lofty mountains of Ben-Clibrig, Ben-
Ormin, and Ben-Horn, are among the finest portions of
this secluded district. Beyond Strath-Brora, however,
about nine miles from the coast, the general aspect of
the scenery becomes bleak and heathy, with extensive
tracts of moor and moss, intersected by numerous rivu-
lets, and lofty ranges of hills. The coast, in general, is
low and sandy, and marked by a ridge of sand hills,
covered, in the more abrupt parts, with bent, and in the
others, with tolerably good pasture. The river Brora,
the principal stream, is celebrated for salmon of a supe-
rior size and flavour ; it has its source in the forest of
Ben-Clibrig, and, after a winding course of thirty miles,
within the parish, discharges itself into the sea at
Brora. The largest sheet of water is Loch Brora, which
is about four miles long, and varies from a quarter to
half a mile in breadth ; its banks are clothed with
several clumps of natural wood, and extensive planta-
tions of fir ; and the bold and precipitous Carrol rock,
with the mansion-house of Kilcalmkill, contributes to
its interesting and beautiful scenery.
The principal part of the parish consists of high and
irreclaimable hill-pasture, and is laid out in extensive
sheep-walks ; the sheep are the pure Cheviots, to the
breed of which great attention is paid, and the total num-
ber kept is nearly 1 1,000. The land in tillage is supposed
to comprehend no more than about 1400 acres, the soil of
which is mostly sharp gravel, and unfit for the production
of wheat ; between two and three hundred acres are under
plantation. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£2910. The rocks consist chiefly of sandstone, two
quarries of which are wrought to a considerable extent ;
the material found in one of these is remarkably hard,
compact, and durable, and contains numerous petrifac-
tions of trees, fishes, and shells, which attract the notice
of scientific travellers. Coal was wrought near the
mouth of the river Brora, so far back as 1573, and at
several subsequent periods, but the works were discon-
tinued many years ago ; the late Duke of Sutherland
sank a new pit, and erected the necessary buildings, at
a cost of £16,000, and the coal was conveyed to the
harbour, on a railroad 800 yards long. Four large
salt-pans were also erected, from which salt of a very-
superior quality was obtained. On the Brora is a
salmon-fishery, rented at £300 per annum, and there
are several boats regularly employed, in the season, in
the herring-fishing, which supply the neighbourhood with
all the ordinary kinds of fish, at a very cheap rate. The
ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of
Dornoch and synod of Sutherland and Caithness; patron,
the Duke of Sutherland, who is proprietor of the whole
parish. The stipend is £144. 15. 7-; and there is a
handsome and commodious manse, with a glebe valued
at £12 per annum. The church, a plain structure, was
built about, the year 1770 5 it was repaired and enlarged
about 1827, and will accommodate nearly 1000 persons
COAL
COCK
with sittings, the whole of which are free. A place of
worship has been erected in connexion with the Free
Church. There is a parochial school, where the ordi-
nary branches of education are taught ; the master has
the maximum salary, a house, garden, and a small sum
from fees. There is also a good Assembly's school in
the village of Brora. The chief relic of antiquity is the
celebrated Pictish tower called "Castle Cole," which is the
most entire specimen of this kind of tower in the country,
excepting that of Dornadilla, in the parish of Durness.
It is protected on three sides by the river, and has on
the other side a precipice of seventy feet ; it is oblong
in form, with walls eleven feet thick, without lime or
mortar, and appears to have been a place of great
strength.
COALHILL, a village, in the parish of Campbell-
town, district of Cantyre, county of Argyll, 3 miles
(W.) from Campbelltown. This village, which is situated
in the western part of the parish, is inhabited chiefly
by persons employed in coal-mines, from which a canal
has been constructed, for conveying the produce to the
town. A chapel of ease is about to be erected, for the
accommodation of the inhabitants of this district remote
from the parish church. A school is supported by the
inhabitants.
COALSNAUGHTON, a village, in the parish of
Tillicoultry, county of Clackmannan, 3 miles (N. E.)
from Alloa; containing 691 inhabitants. It lies on
the road to Stirling, not far from the river Devon, and
is inhabited chiefly by colliers.
COALTON, a village, in the parish of Kettle,
district of Cupar, county of Fife, 1 mile (S. E.) from
Balmalcolm ; containing S4 inhabitants. This village,
which is situated in the hilly part of the parish, appears
to have derived its name from the coal-works which are
still carried on here, though not to so great an extent
as formerly. The present seam in operation is a kind of
blind coal, which is solely used for burning lime ; the
produce, amounting, in value, to no more than about
£70 per annum, is chiefly sent to the lime-works at
Pitlessie. A quarry of freestone has also been opened,
and is worked to a limited extent, and used for building
purposes, and for the inclosures of several farms in the
parish.
COALTOWN OF BALGONIE, in the parish of
Markinch, district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife,
1 mile (S.) from Markinch; containing415 inhabitants.
This village, which is situated to the west of Balgonie,
consists chiefly of cottages, inhabited by persons em-
ployed in the collieries from which it takes its name, and
in the spinning-mills, bleachfields, and other works in
the vicinity.
COALTOWN, EAST, a village, in the parish of
Wemyss, district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife,
4 miles (N. E.) from Kirkcaldy; containing 165 inha-
bitants. This village, which is in the mining district of
the parish, is neatly built, and principally inhabited by
persons engaged in collieries, which are extensively
worked, and afford an abundant supply of fuel for the
neighbourhood.
COALTOWN, WEST, a village, in the parish of
Wemyss, district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife ; ad-
jacent to East Coaltown, and containing 37*2 inhabitants.
This village is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in
the extensive coal-works on the estate of Captain
205
Wemyss, and for whose accommodation it has been
built.
COALYLAND, a village, in the parish of Alloa,
county of Clackmannan, 2 miles (N. by W.) from
Alloa ; containing 234 inhabitants. It is situated a
little south of the road between Aberdonie and Menstry,
and derives its name from being the seat of an extensive
colliery : the river Devon flows on the north of the
village.
COATBRIDGE, a village, in the late quoad sacra
parish of Gartsherrie, parish of Old Monkland,
Middle ward of county Lanark, If mile (N. W.) from
Airdrie ; containing 1599 inhabitants. This is a very
thriving place, which has more than doubled in extent
and population within the last fifteen years, owing to
the extension of the iron trade in the district, and to
its being in the vicinity of valuable coal-mines ; the
Dundyvan and Summerlee iron-works in the neigh-
bourhood are conducted on a large scale, and afford
employment to a great part of the population. The
village is on the road from Airdrie to Glasgow ; and the
Monkland canal also affords facilities of communication
with the adjacent towns. A post-office has been esta-
blished here, and there is a place of worship for mem-
bers of the Free Church.
COATDYKE, a village, in the late quoad sacra pa-
rish of Gartsherrie, parish of Old Monkland, Middle
ward of county Lanark ; containing 459 inhabitants.
This place participates largely in raising the mineral
products of the district, iron and coal ; and in the
neighbourhood are several quarries, including one of
white freestone, of which the thickness is, in some parts,
seventy feet.
COATS, EAST and WEST, villages, in the parish of
Cambuslang, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ;
the one containing 140, and the other 146 inhabitants,
chiefly weavers and colliers. They are seated in the
north-western part of the parish, a short distance from
the village of Cambuslang.
COCKBURNSPATH, with Old Cambus, a parish,
in the county of Berwick, 8 miles (N. W.) from Press;
containing 1149 inhabitants, of whom about 230 are in
the village. This place was called anciently Colbrands-
path, from Colbrand, a Danish chieftain who is said to
have established himself in this part of the country,
and subsequently Cockbumspath, from its having, at a
very early period, been the baronial seat of the family of
Cockburn. It comprises the united parishes whose
names it bears, and of which the latter, Old Cambus,
was annexed to the former, at a period not distinctly
known. The castle, whether founded by Colbrand or
by Cockburn, appears to have formed part of the pos-
sessions of Patrick Dunbar, afterwards Earl of Dunbar
and March, who, when this district was infested by a
daring band of robbers, mustered his retainers, and,
attacking them in a body, killed 600 of their number.
For this service, the king created him Earl of March,
and conferred upon him the lands of Colbrandspath,
together with the castle, which, and that of Dunbar,
were the most important fortresses in this part of the
kingdom. The lands appear to have subsequently been
included in the royal demesnes of many successive kings,
and to have been given as part of the dowry of several
of their daughters ; they afterwards became the pro-
perty of the Earl of Home, from whom, about 200 years
COCK
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since, they passed to the Halls. Little more of his-
torical importance is recorded in connexion with the
place than the passage through the parish of the Eng-
lish army, under the Earl of Hertford, on his invasion
of Scotland in 1544, and of that under the Earl of
Somerset, in 1548.
The parish is bounded on the north-east by the
German Ocean, and on the north-west by the county of
Haddington, and comprises 9S00 acres, of which 5200
are arable, 600 woods and plantations, and the re-
mainder hilly pasture and waste. The surface is greatly
diversified with hill and dale, and, in many parts, with
narrow deep glens through which small rivulets flow, in
rugged channels, into the sea ; the hills are generally
of spherical form, and the highest of them are not more
than from 500 to 600 feet above the sea. The scenery
is, in some parts, highly romantic ; the glens are dis-
tinguished by a great variety of features, combining
rocks and woods and streams which, frequently ob-
structed in their progress, form some beautiful cascades.
On the precipitous ridge which incloses the Tower glen,
are the remains of the ancient castle ; and over another,
called the Pease Den, which is remarkable for its depth,
has been thrown abridge of singular construction. The
coast is bold and precipitous, and is indented with
several small bays, of which the most important and
the most, picturesque is that named the Cove; it is
completely inclosed, except at the entrance, by precipi-
tous rocks rising to the height of one hundred feet, and,
by the recent construction of a breakwater, has been
formed into a very commodious harbour for fishing-
boats. Numerous excavations formed by nature in the
rocky shores of the bay, have been appropriated as
warehouses ; and one of them has been wrought into a
tunnel, sixty yards in length, serving as a means of
communication with the shore, and affording a facility
for landing goods on the quay.
The soil is various ; extremely rich in the immediate
vicinity of the sea, and becoming lighter at a greater
distance from the coast, till it degenerates into hilly
pasture. The chief crops are, grain of all kinds, pota-
toes, and turnips ; the system of agriculture is in an
advanced state, and the rotation plan of husbandry
generally practised. Considerable attention is paid to
the management of live stock ; the sheep are, nearly in
equal numbers, of the Leicestershire and Cheviot breeds,
the former on the lower lands, and the latter on the
higher, some of a cross between the two. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £8648. The woods are
mostly of oak, for which the soil appears to be peculiarly
favourable, beech, chesnut, ash, and sycamore ; and the
plantations, fir, with larch, intermixed with various
kinds of forest trees. The substrata are, greywacke,
greywacke-slate, and sandstone, of which only the last
is quarried ; it is of a coarse quality, and of the old red
formation, being chiefly valuable for its property of
withstanding the action of heat. The village, which
had fallen into a state of neglect, has, within the last
forty years, been greatly improved, under the patronage
of Lady Helen Hall ; it is partly inhabited by persons
employed in the fishery, and contains a subscription
library of considerable extent. Great facility of com-
munication is afforded by the road from Edinburgh to
London, which passes through the centre of the parish,
and by numerous handsome and picturesque bridges
206
over the many deep ravines. The Pease bridge, of four
arches, about a mile and a half from the village, is
strikingly romantic in its appearance ; it is 300 feet in
length, and nearly 130 feet above the bottom of the
ravine. Another bridge, over the Dunglass glen, of
modern construction and of great beauty, has one spa-
cious arch, spanning the ravine at an elevation of ninety
feet above the stream that flows beneath it ; and not
far distant is a magnificent bridge for the line of the
great North-British railway. A fair, chiefly for toys,
is held on the second Tuesday in August. A consider-
able fishery is carried on at Cove ; the fish chiefly taken
are, cod, haddocks, whiting, ling, skate, halibut, and
turbot. Lobsters and crabs are taken in abundance, in
the season, and are sent, by shipping from the port of
Dunbar, to London ; and herrings were formerly caught
in profusion, but, of late years, few have appeared on
this part of the coast. A convenient harbour was con-
structed in 1831, for the accommodation of the fishing-
boats, and capable also of affording shelter to vessels of
larger burthen, of which several, laden with coal, and
bone-dust for manure, frequently put in here, and de-
liver their cargoes. The expense of completing the
harbour, which was very considerable, was defrayed
partly by a grant from the government, and partly by
the late Sir John Hall.
The parish is in the presbytery of Dunbar and synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale, and in the patronage of the
Crown ; the minister's stipend is £245. 13. 3., with a
manse, and the glebe is valued at £27 per annum. The
church, a very ancient structure, with a round tower,
and apparently built in the 12th century, was fully re-
paired in 1807, and reseated in 1S26. There is a place
of worship in the parish for members of the United
Secession Synod. The parochial school affords instruc-
tion to about ninety scholars ; the master has a salary
of £30, with £45 fees, and a house and garden. There
are several vestiges of ancient fortifications, of which
the chief are on Ervieside hill, and on the ridge of
Dunglass Den ; many urns, also, of Roman pottery
have been at various times discovered by the plough.
In the centre of the parish are the ruins of the castle
of Cockburnspath, apparently erected to defend the pass
of the ravine at the entrance of which it is situated ;
and in the Old Cambus district, are the ruins of the
ancient church, seated on a lofty precipice overlooking
the sea. It was dedicated to St. Helen, and is said to
have been erected, in gratitude for their preservation,
by three Northumbrian princesses, who, fleeing into
Scotland for refuge, were wrecked on this part of the
coast.
COCKENZIE, late a quoad sacra parish, includ-
ing the villages of Meadowmill and Portseaton, in the
parish of Tranent, and part of the parish of Preston-
pans, in the county of Haddington ; the whole con-
taining 1061 inhabitants, of whom 570 are in the village
of Cockenzie, 1 mile (N. E.) from Prestonpans. This
village, which is situated on the shore of the Frith of
Forth, is almost wholly inhabited by fishermen, who,
during the winter, are chiefly employed in procuring
supplies for the markets of Edinburgh and Glasgow,
and, in the spring, engage in the whale-fisheries of
Greenland. The fish taken here are, cod, whitings,
flounders, and oysters, of which last there are beds of
excellent quality ; and in summer those who have not
COCK
COLD
engaged themselves in the whale-fishery go to Caith-
ness for herrings, which they take in large quantities,
and sell to the curers. In autumn, they are employed
in dredging oysters, and catching such herrings and
other fish as appear in the Frith. The number of boats
belonging to the fishery is thirty, of which ten are of
sixteen, and twenty-one of seven tons' burthen ; they
are all without decks, but well and strongly built, and
capable of enduring a very heavy sea. A considerable
foreign and coasting trade is also carried on, in which
two vessels, of 100 and 120 tons respectively, belonging
to this place, are regularly employed ; the number of
other ships annually entering and leaving the harbour,
averages from 250 to 300, of the aggregate burthen of
20,000 tons.
The harbour was constructed in 1835, by Messrs.
Cadell, at an expense of £6000 ; it is easily accessible
at all times of the tide, and affords great security to
numerous vessels driven in by stress of weather. It
has sixteen feet depth of water at spring, and ten feet
at neap, tides ; and though formed more especially for
the shipping of the produce of the collieries, from which
to the port an iron railway has been laid down by the
proprietors, it has been of great benefit to the fishery
of the place. A mill, driven by steam, has been erected
for grinding bones and rape-cakes, chiefly brought from
Germany, for manure, and employs a small number of
the inhabitants not engaged in the fisheries; there are
also some salt-works in the district. A fair, formerly
of some importance, but now chiefly for toys, is held in
November. The ecclesiastical affairs of the district are
under the presbytery of Haddington and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale. The church was erected in
1833, by subscription, chiefly through the instrumen-
tality of H. F. Cadell, Esq., aided by grants from the
General Assembly's and East Lothian Church Exten-
sion Societies, and a contribution of £150 raised by the
Rev. A. Forman, of Innerwick. It is a neat edifice,
built at an expense of about £600, and is adapted for a
congregation of 450 persons, and capable of being en-
larged by the erection of galleries. The minister's
stipend is derived from the seat-rents. A school is
supported by subscription.
COCKPEN, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh,
3 miles (S. by W.) from Dalkeith ; containing, with
the villages of Bonnyrigg, Dalhousie, Gowkshill, Hill-
head, Hunterfield, Polton-Street, Prestonholme, Skiltie-
muir, Stobhill-Enginc, and Westmill, 2345 inhabitants,
of whom 709 are in the rural districts. This place,
which is on the river South Esk, is supposed to have
derived its name from the situation of the church upon
an eminence, and the prevailing colour of the soil. It
comprises chiefly the barony of Dalhousie, the property
of the ancient family of the Ramsays, of whom Wil-
liam, Lord Ramsay, was created Earl of Dalhousie, by
Charles I. of England, in 1633. There are still some
remains of the ancient baronial residence of Dalhousie,
which was a quadrangular structure with angular towers,
and one of the strongest fortresses in this part of the
country ; and though altered into a slightly castellated
mansion, as a family residence, it still retains some
vestiges of its ancient character. The parish is above
three miles in length, and two miles and a half in ex-
treme breadth ; the surface is pleasingly undulated, and
the prevailing scenery abounds with interesting features.
207
The banks of the South Esk, which intersects the south-
ern part of the parish, are crowned with ancient wood ;
and the various other streamlets which flow through
the lands, add greatly to the beauty of the landscape.
The soil is generally a strong clay, well adapted to the
growth of grain, and, under good cultivation, yielding
crops of wheat, barley, oats, and peas, with a few pota-
toes and turnips. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £3S01. The plantations, which are extensive,
abound with every variety of trees and ornamental
shrubs, and are in a highly flourishing condition. The
substrata are chiefly coal, which is very abundant, and
limestone and freestone of excellent quality, which are
extensively quarried : copperas, also, has been obtained
within the limits of the parish.
The ancient castle of Dalhousie is beautifully situated
on an eminence overlooking the river Esk ; it was
modernised by the late earl, and the pleasure-grounds
have been tastefully laid out in walks, and embellished
with shrubs and plantations. On the opposite bank of
the river, was the ancient mansion-house of Cockpen,
purchased, within the last few years, by the earl, from
Mr. Baron Cockburn, by whom the adjacent lands had
been greatly improved ; only some of the walls are now
standing, which give a truly romantic character to the
scenery. The village of Cockpen is situated on the
western bank of the South Esk, over which is a hand-
some bridge of stone, affording facility of communica-
tion ; and a branch of the Edinburgh and Dalkeith
railway extends through the parish, to the Mains of
Dalhousie. In the several villages of the parish are
various works. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Dalkeith and synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is
£157, of which £24 are paid from the exchequer, with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £21 per annum ; patron,
the Earl of Dalhousie. The church, erected in 1S20, is
a neat plain structure, containing 625 sittings. There
is a place of worship for members of the Free Church.
The parochial school is well conducted ; the master has
a salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees
average £28.
COLDINGHAM, a parish, in the county of Ber-
wick ; including the tract of Laverock, and the late
quoad sacra district of Houndwood ; and containing
2830 inhabitants, of whom a considerable portion reside
in the village of Coldingham, 3 miles from Reston,
which is on the London and Edinburgh road, and 1 1
(N. N. W.) from Berwick. This place, of which the
name is of doubtful derivation, has a claim to very
remote antiquity, and appears to have originally ac-
quired distinction from the erection of a nunnery, in
the seventh century, by Ebba, daughter of Ethelfrith,
King of Northumbria. To escape from the solicitations
of Penda, King of Mercia, who sought to obtain her in
marriage, she resolved to leave her father's kingdom,
and, embarking for that purpose, was driven by a storm
on the promontory of this coast, which from her de-
rived its name. The convent that she founded here,
appears to have subsisted till the year 837, when it was
plundered and burnt by the Danes, who inhumanly
massacred the whole sisterhood. Some slender remains
of its chapel, however, existed till about the middle of
the last century ; but,^he cemetery surrounding it being
again appropriated as a burial-place, they were soon
COLD
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afterwards destroyed. The monastery of Coldingham
is said to have been founded by Edgar, King of Scot-
land, about the year 1100, though other writers refer
its foundation to a period anterior to that of the nun-
nery of St. Ebba, in the destruction of which by the
Danes they say it participated, and that it was only
rebuilt by Edgar. That monarch, being driven from
his throne, fled to England, where he obtained from
William Rufus an army of 30,000 men, for the recovery
of his dominions, and from the abbot of Durham the
consecrated banner of St. Cuthbert, to aid him in re-
ducing his rebellious subjects to obedience. Having suc-
ceeded in re-establishing his kingdom, Edgar founded
or refounded the monastery, which he dedicated to the
Virgin Mary, and made a cell to the abbey of Durham,
from which establishment he placed in it a prior and
brethren of the order of St. Benedict.
The priory continued to flourish, in uninterrupted
prosperity, from this time, with the munificent patron-
age of Edgar's successors, till the reign of Robert III.,
under whose weak government, and during the regency
of the Duke of Albany, the monks placed themselves
under the protection of the family of Douglas, of whom
the laird of Home became its sub-prior. Not long
afterwards, James III. obtained the concurrence of the
parliament for the suppression of the priory, the reve-
nues of which he wished to appropriate to the endow-
ment of the chapel royal of Stirling, which he had
founded, but their proceedings excited an insurrection
of the Homes, which terminated in the defeat and death
of that monarch, who was killed in battle, near Stirling,
in 14S8. The priory, in 1509, was separated from
Durham, by a decree of the pope, and annexed to the
Abbey of Dunfermline, whose abbot, Alexander Stuart,
a natural son of James IV., and also archbishop of St.
Andrew's, who fell fighting by his father's side at the
battle of Flodden-Field, became prior. After the death
of Alexander Stuart, David, brother of Lord Home, was
made prior of Coldingham. The priory was, in 1544,
seized by the English, who fortified and retained pos-
session of it, against all the efforts of the Earl of Arran,
Regent of Scotland, for its recovery ; and in the fol-
lowing year, it was plundered and burnt by the Earl of
Hertford, after which calamity it never regained its
ancient wealth and importance. During the usurpation
of Cromwell, it was defended against the assaults of his
troops, by a party of royalists who had intrenched
themselves within the walls, and who vigorously re-
pulsed the first detachment sent against them. Crom-
well, however, bringing up in person a stronger force,
with several pieces of cannon, shook it to its foundation,
and compelled the royalists to capitulate ; and, to pre-
vent it from again becoming an obstacle to his success,
he blew up the church with gunpowder, leaving only
one of the walls standing.
The parish, which is about twelve miles in extreme
length, and nine in extreme breadth, is bounded on the
north and north-east by the sea and the Frith of Forth.
The surface is diversified with hills and valleys : a por-
tion of the range of the Lammermoor hills traverses it,
in a direction from east to west, and the highest eleva-
tion, Wardlaw Bank, is 640 feet above the sea. The
valleys are watered by various streams, of which the
most important is the river Eye, which, after flowing
with a gentle current through the whole extent of the
20S
parish, falls into the ocean at Eyemouth. The only
lake is that of Coldingham, about a mile to the west of
St. Abb's Head, a fine expanse of water covering thirty
acres of ground, within 300 yards of the coast, and
having an elevation of 100 yards above the sea; it is
circumscribed by sloping banks of barren rocky aspect,
incapable of plantation, and abounds with perch, the
only kind of fish it contains. The coast, near St. Abb's
Head, is rocky and precipitous, and indented with
numerous caves excavated in the rock, of which some
are of large extent, and with natural fissures, inaccessi-
ble from the land, and only to be entered from the sea
at low water, and in calm weather.
The soil is various, and, in some parts of the parish,
fertile ; but there are large tracts of barren land, in-
capable of being brought into cultivation. The whole
number of acres is estimated at about 57,000, of which
6000 are moor and waste, about 500 in woods and
plantations, and the remainder, in nearly equal portions,
arable and pasture. The chief crops are, grain of various
kinds, potatoes, and turnips, and the system of agricul-
ture is improved ; very many cattle are fattened, and
great numbers of sheep are annually reared. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £19,770. The natu-
ral w;oods consist mostly of oak, elm, and birch ; and
the plantations of the various kinds of fir, and larch,
intermixed with the usual forest trees. The rocks are
generally of the transition formation, and the principal
substrata are greywacke and greywacke-slate ; the pro-
montory of St. Abb's Head is one mass of trap rock,
composed mainly of trap tuffa, amygdaloid, and por-
phyritic felspar. A lucrative fishery is carried on, for
which purpose a small harbour was constructed in 1833,
at Northfield, about a mile from the village, at an ex-
pense of £1200, of which sum, about one-fourth was
raised by subscription, and the remainder was granted
by government. The fish taken off the coast are, cod,
haddock, turbot, and lobsters ; and about seven boats
are regularly employed, affording support to thirty-six
families, of which number thirty live in the hamlet of
Northfield. The cod is pickled, the haddocks smoked,
and the turbot and lobsters are sent alive to the Lon-
don market. The village of Coldingham is pleasantly
situated, and contains many neatly built houses ; a
library is supported by subscription, in which is a col-
lection of more than 400 volumes of standard works.
The weaving of cotton affords employment to more than
thirty persons.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the presby-
tery of Chirnside and synod of Merse and Teviotdale ;
patron, the Crown. The stipend of the incumbent is
£267; the manse was built in 1801, and enlarged in
182S, and the glebe is valued at £25 per annum. The
church, which is a portion of the ancient monastery,
was repaired in 1662, and is well adapted for a congre-
gation of 827 persons. There is a place of worship for
members of the United Associate Synod. Two paro-
chial schools are well attended ; the masters have each
a salary of £25, with a house and garden, and fees.
The remains of the priory, though dreadfully mutilated,
still display some memorials of its former magnificence;
they contain fragments of the richest details in the Nor-
man style, from its earliest period to its transition into
the early English. The north wall of the church was
formerly covered with series of intersecting arches,
COLD
COLD
springing from corbels enriched with canopies ; but the
shafts of the intercolumniations have been cut away,
and the whole wretchedly disfigured. The triforium,
however, of five elegantly-designed windows, separated
by alternate ranges of plain and clustered columns, sup-
porting richly-moulded arches of graceful form, is still
tolerably entire, and various other portions, of elaborate
design, may still be traced. Upon a peninsular rock
projecting into the sea, about two miles to the west of
St. Abb's Head, are the ruins of Fast Castle, connected
with the mainland by a narrow isthmus, which, for
greater security, was cut away, and in its place a draw-
bridge substituted. By whom it was originally founded
is not clearly ascertained : it belonged to the family of
Logan, of Restalrigg, one of whom, proprietor at the
time of Gowry's conspiracy, was, several years after his
death, tried and condemned for the part he took in that
transaction, and his estates were forfeited to the crown,
and subsequently conferred upon the Earl of Dunbar.
It is visited chiefly for the grand prospect it embraces
over the German Ocean. There were numerous other
strongholds in the parish, of which the names of Lang-
ton Tower, Heughead, Renton, and Houndwood, which
last was the hunting-seat of the prior of Coldingham,
only are recorded. On the hill to the west of St. Abb's
Head, are vestiges of a Roman camp, and on another
the remains of a British camp, defended on three sides
by lofty ramparts ; and on the summit of Wardlaw
Bank, are traces both of a Roman and a British camp,
now nearly obliterated by the plough.
COLDSTREAM, a burgh of barony, market-town,
and parish, in the county of Berwick, 14 miles (S. W.)
from Berwick ; containing 2857 inhabitants, of whom
1913 are in the town, and 150 in the village of New
Coldstream. This parish, which is of considerable anti-
quity, was originally called Leinhal, or Lennel, a name
of Saxon etymology, signifying "a great hall," and sup-
posed to have been derived from the foundation of a
Cistercian monastery by Cospatrick, Earl of March, in
the early part of the twelfth century. The small village
of Lennel, which soon afterwards arose round the priory,
being exposed, from its situation, to hostile incursions
during the wars of the Border, sulfered continual depre-
dations, and was ultimately destroyed by the English ;
not a vestige of it is left, nor can even the site be dis-
tinctly pointed out. The monastery, however, flourished
till the Dissolution, when its revenues amounted to
£'201 in money, three chalders, eleven bolls, two firlots,
three and a half pecks of wheat, the same quantity of
bear, and also of meal ; it was beautifully situated near
the confluence of the river Leet with the Tweed, and
was of considerable importance, but only one solitary
vault is now remaining. During the usurpation of
Cromwell, General Monk, who had fixed his head-
quarters at this place, raised a regiment of infantry
here, which accompanied him on his return to England,
for the restoration of the exiled monarch, and which is
still distinguished as the Coldstream regiment of guards.
After the decay of the village of Lennel, a new church
was erected, in 1716, at Coldstream, in the more popu-
lous district of the parish ; and to this circumstance
may be attributed the increase of the town.
The town is pleasantly situated on the river Tweed,
over which is a handsome stone bridge of five arches,
which connects it with the county of Northumberland ;
Vol. L— 209
and affording an approach on the west, is a neat bridge
of one arch, over the river Leet. It is neatly built ; the
streets are lighted and cleansed, and the inhabitants are
supplied with water, under the regulations of the Police
act. A public library is supported by subscription,
which contains a good collection of works on general
literature ; and there are two other subscription libraries,
for the use of mechanics and the working classes. No
manufactures are carried on in the town : the principal
trade of the place consists in furnishing coal and various
other articles for the neighbourhood. The market,
which is well supplied with grain, is on Thursday ; and
there is also a monthly market, for the sale of cattle
and sheep, which is numerously attended. The salmon-
fishery on the Tweed was formerly extensive ; but the
fish have, within the last few years, been very much
diminished, and the whole rental at present is scarcely
£100 per annum. The town is governed by a baron-
bailie, appointed by the superiors of the two baronies of
Coldstream and Hirsel, in which it is situated, and
whose jurisdiction extends to civil and criminal cases,
for the determination of which he holds courts at stated
periods. The average annual number of civil causes
determined is about thirty, and of criminal cases, about
six ; but the latter are chiefly offences against the police
of the town, to which the bailie confines himself, refer-
ring all more important matters to the procurator-fiscal
for the county. There is a small prison for the con-
finement of persons previously to their committal.
The parish, which is situated nearly at an equal dis-
tance between the Cheviot and Lammermoor hills, is
from seven to eight miles in length, and rather more
than four in average breadth. The surface is gene-
rally level, diversified only by some gentle elevations ;
the scenery is pleasingly varied, and richly embellished
with thick woods and plantations. The only streams
which have their source here, are the Gradenburn and
Shiellsburn, which, after traversing the parish, fall into
the river Tweed, its southern boundary ; the only
lake is one of artificial construction, in the pleasure-
grounds of Hirsel. The soil is mostly rich, especially
near the rivers, in proportion to the distance from
which is its tendency to clay. The number of acres
in tillage is 8000 ; the chief crops are, grain of all
kinds, for which the soil is well adapted, potatoes,
and turnips, which last are extensively cultivated. The
system of agriculture is in a highly advanced state ;
bone-dust is applied as manure, and all the more recent
improvements in husbandry are in use. Great atten-
tion is paid to live stock ; the cattle, with the exception
of a few of the Highland breed, are all the Teeswater
or short-horned, and the sheep are of the Cheviot and
Leicestershire breeds. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £15,317. The woods are of oak, birch, beech,
ash, and elm ; and the plantations, Scotch and spruce
firs, intermixed with the usual forest trees. The larch
is not found to thrive in the soil, and consequently very
few trees of that sort are planted ; but all the other
kinds seem well adapted to the land, and are in a pros-
perous state.
The substrata are, white sandstone, clay-marl, reddish
sandstone, limestone, and gypsum ; the white sandstone
or freestone is of very excellent quality for building,
and is extensively quarried in several parts of the parish.
The red sandstone is also quarried, but not to any great
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extent ; the limestone is of inferior quality, and, though
quarried in some places for the roads, is not burnt into
lime. The gypsum is found chiefly on the banks of the
Leet, where it occurs in nodules of a reddish hue, and
at Milne-Graden, where, in boring for coal some years
since, it was discovered in thin veins of a whitish colour.
Among the minerals are, crystals of quartz, calcareous
spar, phrenite, and sulphate of lime, with numerous
petrifactions of organic and fossil remains. Of the seats
in the parish are, Lennel House, the property of the
Earl of Haddington, lord of the barony of Coldstream,
a handsome mansion of modern character ; and Hirsel,
the seat of the Earl of Home, lord of the barony of
Hirsel, an elegant mansion of white stone, erected with
materials from a quarry in the parish. In the grounds
of the latter is a lake of considerable dimensions ; and at
the base of an acclivity rising from the bank of the
Leet, and richly wooded, a monument was erected by
a late lord, to the memory of his eldest son, who died
in America, of his wounds in the battle of Camden ; the
design is a reduced imitation of the obelisk of Mattheus
at Rome. The seats of the Lees, Milne-Graden, and
Castlelaw are also mansions of white freestone, and
withiu the limits of the parish.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Chirnside and synod of
Merse and Teviotdale ; patron, the Earl of Haddington.
The stipend of the incumbent is £233 ; the manse is a
comfortable residence, erected in 1830, and the glebe
comprises 11 acres of land, valued at £40 per annum.
The church, erected in the year ]79o, is a plain sub-
stantial edifice, and is adapted for a congregation of
1 100 persons. There are places of worship for members
of the United Associate and Relief Synods. The paro-
chial school affords instruction to about 120 children ;
the master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden,
and the fees average £~5 per annum. The late John
Bell, Esq., bequeathed £500 for the instruction of chil-
dren of the town, and also £300 for supplying them
with clothing on their leaving school. Stone coffins
have been found, and quantities of human bones, in the
grounds of Hirsel, and near the junction of the Leet
and Tweed, where the ancient abbey was situated.
These are supposed to be the remains of warriors slain
in the battle of Flodden-Field. of whom the most illus-
trious were conveyed to Coldstream, by order of the
abbess, and interred in the abbey cemetery. Several
ancient coins also, of the reign of the Jameses, have been
discovered in the grounds of Milne-Graden. Patrick
Brydone, Esq., author of a Tour in Sicily and Malta,
and for many years resident in the old mansion of
Lennel House, was buried in the ancient church of
Lennel, of which there are still some vestiges.
COLINSBURGH, a market-town, in the parish of
Kilconq,uhar, district of St. Andrew's, county of
Fife, 10 miles (S. by E.) from Cupar, and 2S| (N. E.
by N.) from Edinburgh ; containing 482 inhabitants.
This place is pleasantly situated in the south of the
parish, and on the great road from the eastern to the
western part of the county along the southern coast.
It is neatly built, and inhabited chiefly by persons em-
ployed in trade, for the supply of the parish with various
articles of merchandise, and in weaving for the manu-
facturers of Dundee, Kirkcaldy, and other towns. The
currying trade is also carried on, by a company who are
210
proprietors of the tannery at Kilconquhar, and who
manufacture leather to the amount of £15,000 per
annum, and afford employment to about twenty-four
persons. The market, which is a large mart for grain,
is held on Wednesday, and is numerously attended by
farmers and dealers from the neighbourhood ; the corn
is sold by sample, and considerable quantities are for-
warded to Edinburgh, Glasgow, and other ports, for ex-
portation. Fairs are held in June and October, for
cattle ; and in March, when the East Fife Agricultural
Society hold their meeting in the town, there is a
public market at which great numbers of cattle are
exposed for sale. Colinsburgh is a burgh of barony
under the family of Lindsay, earls of Balcarres, from
whose ancestor, Colin, third earl, the place derived its
name. In the immediate vicinity is the elegant resi-
dence of Balcarres House ; and overhanging it, appears
the Crag of Balcarres, which confers the title, and is a
rock of considerable altitude. The present earl is the
acknowledged chief of the very ancient house of Lind-
say, many of the members of which have been interred
in the old chapel near the mansion. A school has been
established.
COLINTON, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh,
including the villages of Hailes- Quarry, Juniper-Green,
Longstone, Slateford, and Swanston ; and containing
2195 inhabitants, of whom 120 are in the village of
Colinton, 4 miles (S. W.) from Edinburgh. The name
of this place, sometimes written Colington, was formerly
Hailes, a word signifying "mounds" or " hillocks," and
accurately descriptive of the appearance of the surface
of the parish. About the close of the 17th century, the
designation Colinton chiefly prevailed, having, for some
time previously, been used in honour of a family of that
name, who had come into possession of the chief estates.
The district appears to have been, in remote times, the
scene of important military operations ; there were re-
mains of a large encampment lately existing at Comiston,
and extensive cairns in the vicinity, whence fragments
of old military implements were sometimes taken. The
Kel Stane, " the stone of the battle," which is a large
upright stone, from time immemorial also called Camus
Stone, renders it probable that this spot was originally
the encampment of some Danish forces. In the
barony of Redhall formerly stood a strong castle, which,
in 1572, was garrisoned by the regent Mar, and the
king's party. In 1650, it was defended vigorously
against Cromwell and his army, by the laird and his
veteran band, who, upon the castle being taken, was
commended by Cromwell for his bravery, and set at
liberty. The ecclesiastical memorials of the parish
reach back to the commencement of the 13th century,
when the lands were granted to the monks of Dun-
fermline by Ethelred, son of Malcolm Canmore, and
confirmed to them by his brother, David I., and by
pope Gregory, in 1234. The vicarage, however, was
taken from the monks, and given first to the canons of
Holyrood, and afterwards to the canons of St. Anthony
at Leith, which grant was confirmed by Kennedy,
Bishop of St. Andrew's, in 1445. The superiority of
the lands of Wester Hailes remained with the canons
till the Reformation, and that of Easter Hailes con-
tinued with the monks till the same period.
The parish is of an irregular form, about three and a
half miles in length, from north to south, and about
C O L I
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three miles in breadth, from east to west, and contains
5070 acres. The surface and scenery are richly diver-
sified, presenting on the south-eastern boundary the
northern range of the Pentland hills, rising 1600 feet
above the sea, and from the skirts of which the ground
slopes gradually to the level of the Water of Leith,
which flows through the lower part of the parish. In
the direction of the north-east, the elevations of the Fir
hill and Craig-Lockhart hill form an interruption to the
general declivity, and supply romantic features in the
landscape, enriched by elegant mansions surrounded by
gardens and plantations. The distant views from the
higher lands embrace the capital, with its numerous
spires and romantic castle, the Frith of Forth and the
coast of Fife, the Ochils, and the celebrated Grampians,
which, in the north-west, bound the prospect. The
Water of Leith, which is the principal stream, though
subject to repeated sinkings and swellings, is used to a
great extent for the purposes of commerce and domestic
convenience, turning no less than sixteen mills, and
having a considerable bleachfield on its banks. There
is also a variety of copious and excellent springs, from
which, for a very long period, water was conducted in a
regular and uniform manner for the supply of Edin-
burgh.
About 3436 acres are either in tillage or fit for tillage;
1356 are hilly grounds under pasture, and 278 are in
plantations. The arable lands lie from 250 to 600 feet
above the level of the sea, and produce good crops of all
kinds of grain, potatoes, turnips, beans, peas, &c. Few
sheep are kept, except on the Pentland hills, and on
Craig-Lockhart, consisting chiefly of Cheviots, with a
few Leicesters ; the number of cattle reared is also very
small. Very considerable improvements in husbandry
have been made within these few years, chiefly in deep
draining, and a proper system of cropping. As, how-
ever, a large proportion of the ground rests upon a sub-
soil of stiff clay, the furrow drain and deep plough are
still requisite, to facilitate the productive powers of
the land. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£12,314. The great abundance and variety of the sub-
terraneous contents of the parish give it altogether a
geological character. The Pentland hills consist of
claystone, porphyry, and felspar-porphyry ; the crags of
Caerketan are clayey felspar, strongly mixed with black
oxide of iron. Among the Pentlands, also, are found
boulders of granite, gneiss, &c, with jaspers and malac-
tite. Craig-Lockhart hill is basaltic rock, and the bed
of the Leith water abounds with highly interesting
mineral productions, among which are fossil remains of
fishes and vegetables. There are two freestone quarries,
large quantities of the contents of which, at different
times, have been conveyed to Edinburgh for building
materials ; the value of one of them to the lessor, some
years ago, was £9000 annually, but at present the re-
venue is not more than £1500.
Several beautiful mansions adorn the parish, of which
Colinton House was built in the beginning of the pre-
sent century, and is agreeably situated, commanding
extensive prospects to the north and east. Dreghorn
Castle, built about the same time, stands encompassed
with thick plantations, some parts of which consist of
ancient beech-trees, conferring a venerable and majestic
appearance. Comiston House and Craig-Lockhart House
were both built but a few years ago, and are pleasantly
211
situated, especially the latter, having for its site a
wooded bank, gently declining to the margin of the
Leith water. In a hollow which commands the pass
through the Pentland hills, near the House of Bonally,
stands a Peel tower, in the midst of beautifully romantic
scenery, built by Lord Cockburn. The villages of Colin-
ton and Slateford have each a post-office. Facility of
communication is afforded by the road from Edinburgh
to Lanark, and the Union canal enters the parish at
Slateford, and, being carried over the valley of the
Leith water by an aqueduct of eight arches, passes
along the lower side of it for about two miles and a
half. Of the mills, ten are meal-mills, one is for saw-
ing wood, another for beating hemp and lint, one for
grinding magnesia, and the others are employed in the
manufacture of paper, which has existed in Colinton for
upwards of a century. The ecclesiastical affairs are
directed by the presbytery of Edinburgh and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale ; patrons, the communicants.
The minister's stipend is £221, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £27 per annum. The church, which is
very ancient, is beautifully situated in the vicinity of
Colinton House ; it was rebtiilt in 1771, and in 1817
new-roofed, and in the year 1837 it was enlarged and
re-seated. There is a place of worship for members of
the Free Church ; also a chapel at Slateford, built in
17S4, the minister of which has a salary of £130,
chiefly from pew-rents, and a dwelling-house, with
garden. A parochial school is supported, in which the
ordinary branches of education are taught, and clas-
sical and mathematical instruction, with French, may
be obtained ; the master's salary is £34, with about
£40 fees, and a house with garden. There are two
libraries ; and a gardeners' society awards small pre-
miums for the superior cultivation of vegetables, fruits,
and flowers.
COLL ISLE, Argyllshire. — See Tiree.
COLLAGE, a parish, in the county of Perth; in-
cluding the villages of Kinrossie and Saucher, and con-
taining 702 inhabitants, of whom 191 are in the village
of Collace, 7 miles (N. E.) from Perth. Collace is
chiefly celebrated as having been the residence of the
well-known Macbeth, Thane of Glammis, who erected
his castle on the hill of Dunsinnan, a lofty and insulated
eminence in the parish, rising 1024| feet above the level
of the sea, and the oval summit of which is 169
yards in length, and 89 in mean breadth. Here this
usurper of the Scottish crown held his court ; but on
the approach of Malcolm, whose father Duncan he had
murdered, with the English army commanded by
Siwald, Duke of Northumberland, he fled northward,
and was overtaken and slain at Lumphanan, in Aber-
deenshire. His castle was immediately razed, and the
remains of it destroyed by fire. The parish lies in the
vale of Strathmore, on the north side of the Sidlaw
ridge of hills ; it is about two miles long, and of nearly
the same breadth, and contains about 3000 acres. The
surface in general is flat, except towards the hills, where
it is too steep for the plough. From Dunsinnan hill
fine prospects are commanded of the surrounding
country in every direction, and the long stretched-out
and lofty Grampians are seen to rear their heads in
apparently endless succession. The soil mostly Consists
of a light dark-coloured loam, mixed in some places
with clay, and resting upon a heavy red sand. The
2 E 2
COLL
COLL
number of acres under tillage is 1/47; 100 are in pas-
ture, and 560 are under wood, consisting chiefly of
Scotch fir and larch. Potatoes and oats are the chief
produce, but all kinds of grain and green crops are cul-
tivated, of good quality, improvements in husbandry
having been commenced at a very early period, and
carried on with great success. Much attention has been
given to the breed of cattle and horses, many of which
are kept, and the farm-houses and buildings especially
vie with those of the best parishes. The prevailing rock
is sandstone, from two quarries, of which an abundant
supply is obtained for the whole parioh. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £2751.
The chief mansion is Dunsinnan House, which has
recently been much enlarged and improved ; it for-
merly belonged to Lord Dunsinnan, a senator of the
college of justice, and member of the high court of
justiciary, who died in ISIS. The manufacture of yarn
into cloth is carried on to a considerable extent, up-
wards of a hundred looms being in full operation. The
raw material is obtained from Dundee by persons
whose business it is to purchase it in large quantities,
and, when worked up into webs, is returned to the same
place, where it meets vvith a ready market. The Perth
turnpike-road traverses the parish for about two miles.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery
of Perth and synod of Perth and Stirling ; patron, the
Crown. The manse and offices are commodious, and
there is a glebe worth about £12 per annum ; the sti-
pend is £155. 15., of which £87 are received from the
exchequer. The church, built in 1813, is a handsome
structure, with a square tower, surmounted by minarets,
and contains 400 sittings ; it is situated on an elevated
ground, surrounded with venerable trees, and is much
admired for its commanding locality. A place of wor-
ship has been erected in connexion with the Free
Church. There is a parochial school, in which every
branch of instruction may be obtained ; the master has
excellent accommodations, with the maximum salary,
and £27 fees. A parochial library, also, has been re-
cently established.
COLLEGE OF ROSEISLE, a hamlet, in the parish
of Duffus, county of Elgin ; containing 53 inhabitants.
It is situated on the east side of Burgh-Head hay, about
a mile and a half west of Duffus, and south of the road
from Burgh-Head to Elgin.
COLLESSIE, a parish, in the district of Cupar,
county of Fife ; including the villages of Edenton,
Giffordton, Kinloch, Ladybank, and Monkston ; and
containing 1346 inhabitants, of whom 210 are in the
village of Collessie, 5~ miles (W.) from Cupar. This
place, which is situated on the road from Cupar to
Auchtermucbty, is supposed to have derived its name
from the position of its village at the bottom of a glen,
of which, in the Gaelic language, the term Collessie is
significant. The parish is about eight miles in extreme
length, and four in average breadth, and is bounded on
the south by the river Eden. It comprises about
16,540 acres, of which 5000 are arable, 10,000 in pas-
ture, about 1200 woodland, and nearly 300 marsh and
uncultivated waste, the whole of which might, without
difficulty, be reclaimed and rendered fertile. The sur-
lace is 'varied ; in some parts rising into hills of mode-
rate height, of which the sloping sides are richly culti-
vated, and in others spreading into open vales intersected
212
by the river Eden and various other streams, of which
the principal is the Keilour, separating the eastern por-
tion of the parish from that of Monimail. The scenery
throughout is pleasingly diversified, and embellished
with natural wood and flourishing plantations. A tract
of common comprising nearly 1000 acres has been
divided and inclosed within the last fifty years, and is
now covered with plantations, chiefly of fir; and the
hills in general are crowned with ornamental timber.
The soil is various ; in the north and north-western
portions, extremely fertile ; in others, light and sandy,
and in some parts a sterile marsh. Extensive improve-
ments have been made in draining. The Rossie loch,
which covered nearly 300 acres, was partly drained
towards the close of the last century, but remained
little better than a morass till 1806, when Captain
Cheape completed the undertaking, and, at an expense
of £3000, reclaimed 250 acres, which now produce ex-
cellent grain, and left only about 50 acres in the centre,
which, though affording good crops of hay, are still
marshy. The lands have been also benefitted by an
embankment of the river Eden, and by deepening the
bed of the Keilour ; and the system of agriculture has
been greatly improved under the auspices of an agricul-
tural society, supported by most of the landed pro-
prietors in the district, and who hold annual meetings
for the distribution of prizes. The principal crops are,
barley, oats, wheat, potatoes, and turnips; and the
species of barley called Chevalier, and Italian rye grass,
have been recently introduced by the members of the
society. The pastures are very extensive, and many of
them luxuriantly rich ; the cattle are of the black Fife-
shire breed, crossed occasionally with the Teeswater and
Angus breeds. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £8032. The substratum is chiefly whinstone, which
is quarried for building purposes, and is much esteemed ;
sandstone is also found in some parts, but is not worked
to any great extent. The mansion-houses, with their
well-planted and tastefully laid out demesnes, add greatly
to the beauty of the scenery. In the house of Kinloch are
preserved some of the earlier pictures painted by Wilkie,
of which one is " Pitlessie Fair," containing an admirable
group of more than 150 figures, chiefly portraits, and
which he presented to the late Mr. Kinnear, in testi-
mony of his gratitude for the hospitality he experienced
at Kinloch.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Cupar and synod of Fife ;
patron, William Johnstone, Esq. The stipend of the
incumbent is £223. 4. 9. ; the manse is a comfortable
residence, enlarged and nearly rebuilt within the last
fifteen years, and the glebe is valued at £15 per annum.
The former church, an ancient edifice, being ill adapted
for public worship, and too small for the parish, another
has lately been erected, a handsome building somewhat
in the English style, with a short square tower, and
capable of seating 550 persons. There is a place of
worship for members of the Free Church. The paro-
chial school is attended by nearly seventy scholars ;
the master, who, in addition to the ordinary branches,
teaches Latin and the mathematics, has a salary of
£35. 12., with £25 fees, and a house and garden. There
is also a parochial library. A little to the south of the
village, is a cairn called the Gask Hill, consisting of
loose stones overgrown with turf, about twelve feet in
COLM
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height. Near this spot, an ancient sword about eigh-
teen inches in length, and several fragments of human
bones, covered with a few flat stones, were dug up some
years since. On the lands of Melville, and near the site
of Hall Hill, the ancient mansion of that family, is an
upright block of whinstone, about six feet in circum-
ference, and nine in height. In the hamlet of Trafalgar
are two spots, supposed to have been the sites of mili-
tary stations erected to secure the pass from Newburgh
to the interior of the county of Fife, from which circum-
stance a small lake between this place and Newburgh is
called Lindores, from the Gaelic Linne-Doris, the loch
of the pass. The eastern fort, called Agabatha, was
seated on an eminence surrounded with a moat ; and
relics of antiquity have been discovered near the spot,
among which was a quern or hand-mill of mica-slate,
and a number of coins of the date of Edward I. The
western fort, called Maiden Castle, is said to have de-
rived that name from the daughter of the governor,
who, concealing the death of her father duriug a siege,
continued to give, herself, the necessary orders for its
defence, till the assailants were compelled to abandon
the attempt. The site of this fort is pointed out by
some trees planted there by the late proprietor of the
land. In the interval between the forts numerous
coffins, urns, and human bones have been frequently
discovered; the urns, one of which is still preserved at
Kinloch, were of Celtic origin, about eighteen inches in
height, and fifteen in diameter at the base, and extremely
conical inform. Among the eminent persons connected
with the parish, w-as Sir James Melville, proprietor of
the lands of Hall Hill in the time of Mary, Queen of
Scots ; there are no remains of the mansion, and the
site of it has disappeared since the inclosure of the
lands. Dr. Hugh Blair was incumbent of this parish,
to which he was ordained in 1742.
COLLIESTON, a village, in the parish of Slains,
district of Ellon, county of Aberdeen, 6 miles (E. by
S.) from Ellon ; containing 357 inhabitants. This is a
maritime village, situated on the eastern coast, and in-
habited chiefly by fishermen, who obtain a comfortable
livelihood by taking various kinds of white-fish, but
especially haddock and cod, which are cured, and sent
in large quantities to Leith, Glasgow, and London. — See
Slains.
COLLIN, a village, in the parish of Torthorwald,
county of Dumfries, 2| miles (E. by S.) from Dum-
fries ; containing 233 inhabitants. It is on the western
borders of the parish, and on the high road from Annan
to Dumfries. There is a school, of which the master
has a salary of £20, for teaching the ordinary branches
of education, and derives as much more from fees.
COLLISTONMILL, a hamlet, in the parish of St.
Vigean's, county of Forfar ; containing 61 inhabit-
ants. It lies in the north-western part of the parish,
on the confines of that of KinnelL and on the road from
Arbroath to Dunnichen.
COLLOCHBURN, a village, in the parish of Cam-
buslang, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; con-
taining 166 inhabitants. The greater part of the popu-
lation is employed in the manufactures of the district.
COLMONELL, a parish, in the district of Car-
rick, county of Ayr, 5 miles (N. E.) from Ballan-
trae ; containing 2801 inhabitants. This parish, of
which the name is of very uncertain derivation, is
213
about, nineteen miles and a half in length, and seven
miles in extreme breadth. It is bounded on the north
by the Frith of Clyde, and comprises 56,800 acres,
of which 4000 are arable, 2000 fine meadow land,
800 woods and plantations, and the remainder moor
and rough pasture. The surface is beautifully varied
with hills of gentle elevation, inclosing fertile valleys,
and with gradually rising grounds and level meadows.
The chief river is the Stinchar, which has its source in
the parish of Barr, and, in its winding course of nearly
nine miles through this parish, receives the waters of the
Dhuisk, or Blackwater, a river of nearly equal breadth,
over which are three bridges of stone, and several of
wood. The banks of the Stinchar and the Dhuisk are
clothed with wood, chiefly oak, ash, elm, birch, alder,
and larch. There are also several lakes, of which the
principal are Loch Dornal and Loch Mabiery, which
abound with romantic scenery. The higher grounds
command prospects of the surrounding districts, but
none of the hills have an elevation of more than 700
feet above the sea, and the views, though interesting,
are not very extensive. The finest is that from the hill
of Knockdolian, which embraces the whole extent of
the vale of the Stinchar, from Penmore to Knockdolian.
The soil on the banks of the Stinchar is extremely
fertile ; the higher lands are chiefly a stiff clay, resting
upon gravel, and a considerable portion is poor moor-
land, affording scanty pasturage. The chief crops are,
oats, wheat, barley, potatoes, and turnips ; the system
of agriculture is in a very advanced state, and all the
more recent improvements are in general practice.
Great attention is paid to the management of the dairy,
and about 4000 stone of cheese are annually produced
for the neighbouring markets. The Cunninghame breed
of cows is daily increasing, and about 500 of that kind
are pastured on the several dairy-farms ; the cattle
reared are chiefly of the Galloway breed, and about
1500 are annually sold to the cattle-dealers from the
south. About 9000 sheep of the black-faced breed, and
200 of the Cheviot and Leicestershire breeds, are annually
pastured, on the average. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £12,425. Limestone is extensively quarried,
and there are five kilns, at which about 20,000 bolls
of lime are burnt for manure every year. The fishery
on the coast is carried on with success ; the chief fish
found here are, cod, whitings, haddocks, turbot, skate,
and herrings, and lobsters are taken in abundance, and
sent by steam to Dublin, where they are in great demand.
Salmon is also found, in the river Stinchar ; and there
are several salmon pools, the rents of which, in the
aggregate, amount to £30 per annum. The chief
seats of the parish are Penmore and Dalgerrock, which
are of some antiquity ; and Knockdolian, Dhuisk Lodge,
Corwar, Balloehmorie, and Drumlamford, of recent
erection, are handsome mansions, embellished with
flourishing plantations. The village, formerly consisting
only of a few thatched cottages, has been almost entirely
rebuilt in a regular style ; and, since the passing of the
Reform act, has been a polling-place for the election
of a member for the county. A post-office has been
established ; and fairs are held on the first Monday in
February, May, August, and November (O. S.), and
three cattle-markets at Barhill, a small hamlet of recent'
origin, on the river Dhuisk, on the fourth Friday in
April, September, and October (O. S.).
COLO
C OL V
The parish is in the presbytery of Stranraer and synod
of Galloway, and in the patronage of the Duchess de
Coigny. The minister's stipend is £256. 18. 9., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum. The
church, erected in 177*2, and repaired in 1832, is a neat
substantial edifice, adapted for a congregation of 500
persons, but very inadequate to the population of the
parish. A chapel of ease has been erected, in which
the incumbent officiates every fourth Sunday, during
ten months of the year ; and there are places of worship
for Reformed Presbyterians and Original Seceders, be-
sides a Free church. The parochial schoolmaster has a
salary of £34, with £26 fees, a house and garden, and
the half of £21. 15., the rent of the farm of Little
Dungart, bequeathed by Dr. Kennedy, for the gratuitous
instruction of six poor scholars. There are some re-
mains of the ancient castles of Knockdaw, Carleton,
Craigneil, Kirkhill, Penwherry, and Knockdolian. The
most interesting of these are the ruins of Craigneil,
supposed to have been erected in the thirteenth century,
and to have been frequently visited by Robert Bruce ;
they are situated on a rock, and the castle was anciently
a prison, and a place of execution for criminals.
COLONSAY and ORONSAY, two islands, in the
parish of Jura, district of Islay, county of Argyll,
15 miles (N. N. W.) from Portaskaig ; containing about
840 inhabitants. These islands, which are contiguously
situated in the Atlantic Ocean, about twenty miles to the
west of the isle of Jura, are supposed to have derived
their names from St. Colon and St. Oran, respectively.
The former saint founded a monastery for Culdees, prior
to his settlement at Iona, and the latter presided over a
priory of canons regular, founded by one of the lords
of the Isles, as a cell to the abbey of Holyrood. The
islands are separated from each other only by a frith, in
some parts scarcely a hundred yards wide, and which,
being dry at the reflux of the tide, gives them the appear-
ance of one continuous island. Together they are about
12 miles in length, varying from one mile to nearly four
miles in breadth, and comprise about 11,300 acres, of
which one-third is arable and meadow, and the remainder
hill pasture, moorland, and moss. The soil is various,
and has been much improved by the proprietor, who
has also reclaimed considerable tracts of unprofitable
heath and moor, and introduced the best system of hus-
bandry. The chief crops are, potatoes and barley, of
which large quantities are sent to Islay for the distil-
leries, and to Ireland. Great numbers of black-cattle
and sheep are reared on the pastures, and, from the
attention paid to the improvement of the breed, obtain a
high price in the markets of Doune and Dumbarton, to
which they are mostly sent. The plantations consist
principally of elm, ash, sycamore, and alder. The house
of Killoran, situated here, was built in 1722, on the
site of the ancient Culdee establishment ; it is a spacious
mansion, to which two wings have recently been added.
At Oronsay, a handsome residence was built in 1772.
There is no village. Kelp is still manufactured here,
affording employment to about 100 persons during the
summer, and is sent to Liverpool. There are several
fishing-stations on the coast, but they are so exposed to
the swell of the Atlantic, that comparatively little benefit
is derived from them ; the fish taken are, cod, haddock,
ling, skate, turbot, flounders, eels, and lobsters of large
size and excellent quality. The harbour of Portnafea-
214
min affords secure shelter, and a substantial quay has
been erected by the proprietor, near which is a good inn.
There is a church, built by the heritors in 1802, a neat
structure, containing 400 sittings, all of which are free.
The minister, who is appointed by the incumbent of
Jura, has a stipend of £50, and a house and garden,
with some land given by the proprietor of Colonsay.
A parochial school for teaching English and Gaelic exists
here; the master has a salary of £11.2., with £1. 10.
fees. Some portions remain of the ancient priory of
St. Oran, founded on the site of a Culdee establishment
supposed to have been the first instituted by St. Columba.
The ruins are by far the most interesting in the West
Highlands, with the exception only of those of Iona;
they consist chiefly of the church, in which are still
preserved the tombs of the ancient lords, with a portion
of the cloisters and conventual buildings, and an ancient
cross with an inscription, of which the words Hcec est
Crux Colini Prior Orisoi are still legible. There are also
the ruins of a castle on an island in a lake near Colon-
say House, which is supposed to have been a strong-
hold, or place of retreat in times of danger. Sir John
McNeill, G. C. B., late envoy extraordinary and minister
plenipotentiary to the court of Persia ; and Duncan Mc
Neil], Esq., lord-advocate for Scotland, were natives
of the place.
COLONSAY, LITTLE, an isle, in the parish of Kil-
ninian, county of Argyll. It lies between the islands
of Staffa and Gometra, and has a very few inhabitants,
who feed some sheep on the verdure it affords. In
many places are specimens of basaltic pillars, similar to
those of Staffa.
COLSAY ISLE, in the parish of Dunrossness,
county of Shetland. This is a small islet, lying west
of the mainland of the parish, about a mile south of the
island of St. Ronan's, and nearly double that distance
north of Fitfull Head ; and is wholly uninhabited.
COLTFIELD, a hamlet, in the parish of Alves,
county of Elgin, 3 miles (\V. by N.) from Elgin ; con-
taining 42 inhabitants. It lies near the south-eastern
corner of Burgh-Head bay, and on the road between
Kinloss and Duffus.
COLVEND and SOUTHWICK, a parish, in the
stewartry of Kirkcudbright; containing 1495 inha-
bitants, of whom 875 are in Colvend, 18 miles (E.)
from Dumfries. The former of these places is sup-
posed to have derived its name from John de Culwen,
its proprietor in the fifteenth century, and the latter
from the position of its ancient church, now in ruins,
with reference to a small river which flows through the
parish into Solway Frith. After the dilapidation of the
church of Southwick, that parish was annexed to Col-
vend, with which it has been united from the time of
the Reformation. The parish extends for about eight
miles from north-east to south-west, and is partly
bounded on the south-east by the Solway Frith ; the
breadth of the parish is nearly four miles, and the river
Urr forms its south-western limit. The surface is ex-
tremely irregular, and is so broken into detached por-
tions by intervening masses of rock and impenetrable
copses of furze and briars, as to render it unpractica-
ble to ascertain, with any degree of correctness, the
probable number of acres under cultivation. The ground
in some parts rises into numerous hills of moderate
height, and in other parts, especially towards the north,
COMB
COMR
into mountainous elevation forming a chain of heights
skirting the lofty and conspicuous mountain of Crif-
fel. For nearly two miles along the eastern coast the
surface is tolerably level, and divided into several fields
of good arable land. The coast is bold and rocky, and
in many places rises into lofty and precipitous cliffs,
overhanging the Frith, from which, at low water, the
sea retires, leaving a broad tract of level sands. In the
crevices of these rocks is found abundance of samphire,
of which considerable quantities are collected with great
hazard. The Frith is about nine leagues in breadth at
this place ; the river Urr is navigable for eight miles
from it, for vessels of not more than eighty tons, and
the Southwick burn joins the Frith on the boundary
of the parish. The salmon-fishery is carried on
upon a small scale, and during the season smelts are
also found ; cod is taken with lines during the winter,
and flounders, in 1S34, were taken in such numbers
that cart-loads were distributed throughout the neigh-
bouring parishes.
The soil is generally a thin light loam, and, though
warm and fertile, better adapted for pasture than for
tillage ; the chief crops are, oats and barley, with pota-
toes, turnips, and clover. The system of agriculture is
improved, and much of the previously unprofitable waste
land has been reclaimed. The cattle are principally of
the Galloway breed ; the sheep are the black- faced, and
about fifty scores of that kind are pastured on the hills.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £6006. On
the estates of Fairgirth and Barnhourie, are consider-
able tracts of ancient wood ; and the plantations of
more modern date are also extensive, and consist chiefly
of oak and Scotch fir, both of which are in a thriving
state. The prevailing rocks are granite, of which there
are quarries ; stone of good quality for millstones is also
raised, and there are evident indications of copper and
iron, but no attempt has yet been made to work either
of the veins. At the mouth of the river Urr small
vessels are built, and there is a landing-place for un-
loading cargoes of lime and other articles, and for ship-
ping the agricultural produce to Liverpool, Glasgow,
and other ports. The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish
are under the superintendence of the presbytery and
synod of Dumfries. The minister's stipend is £234. 14.6.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum ;
joint patrons, the Crown and the Duke of Buccleuch.
The church is a plain structure, erected in 1771, and
totally inadequate to the population. There is a place
of worship for members of the Secession Synod. Paro-
chial schools are supported at Colvend and Southwick,
of which the masters have each a salary of £26. 13.';
the former has only fees averaging £15, and the latter
has a house and garden, with fees amounting to £36.
There are numerous caverns on the shore, in one of
which, about 120 yards in length, is a well twenty-two
feet deep, into which a piper is supposed to have fallen
while attempting to explore the interior of the cavern ;
and near it is a detached portion of rock, formed natu-
rally into an arch forty feet in height, called the
Needle's Eye. In one of the clefts of the rocks, is a
strong chalybeate spring ; and at Auchenskeoch, in
Southwick, are the remains of a large castellated build-
ing of which the history is unknown.
COMBS, ST., a village, in the parish of Lonmay,
district of Deer, county of Aberdeen, 5 miles (S. E.)
215
from Fraserburgh ; containing 305 inhabitants. It lies
on the eastern coast, about two miles to the south-
south-east of Cairnbulg point, and is also called St.
Colm, a name at different times borne by the parish,
from the saint to whom the old church was dedicated.
The inhabitants are chiefly fishermen, who have about
thirteen boats for the herring, and the same number for
ordinary white, fishing. On the sea-side near the vil-
lage, originally stood the church. There is a parochial
school here, of which the master has a salary of £28,
with £25 from Dick's bequest, and the school fees.
COMELY-BANK, a village, in the parish of Mel-
rose ; forming part of the late quoad sacra parish of
Ladhope, county of Roxburgh, and containing 157
inhabitants.
COMRIE, a parish, in the county of Perth ; in-
cluding the villages of Dalginross, St. Fillan's, and Ross,
and containing 2471 inhabitants, of whom S03 are in
the village of Comrie, 65 miles (W.) from Crieff. The
name is derived from a Gaelic term signifying " Con-
fluence," used in this instance in reference to the junc-
tion of the rivers Earn, Ruchill, and Lednock near the
site of the church of Comrie. The present parish con-
tains the ancient parishes of Dundurn and Tullichetal,
with parts of Monivaird, Strowan, and Muthill. Several
traces of camps and fortifications, some of which have
been recently obliterated by the operations of hus-
bandry, connect it with the military enterprises of the
ancient Romans. One of these was visible in the last
century at Dalginross; and from another which still
remains, and the well-known Roman roads which for-
merly existed in this locality, it is supposed that the
battle described by Tacitus as fought, between Agricola
and Galgacus, took place on the plain of Dalginross.
The parish is about thirteen miles long, and ten broad,
and contains 67,122 acres. It is bounded on three sides
by lofty mountains, the principal range of which is the
Grampians : the east opens on the valley of Strathearn.
The land is throughout diversified with mountains and
valleys, with here and there a fine spreading plain ; the
mountain Benhonzie is 2900 feet above the level of the
sea, and Ben-Vorlich, which is seen from Perth, Edin-
burgh, and Ayrshire, rises to the height of 3300 feet.
The chief valleys, Glenartney and Glen-Lednock, rise
from 200 to 300 feet, and open on the village of Comrie.
The dryness of the soil, and the protection afforded
from the winds by the high range of surrounding moun-
tains, render the climate mild and salubrious ; and the
scenery is little, if at all, inferior to those parts most
distinguished for the union of the picturesque and
romantic with the majestic and sublime. The loch and
river of Earn, the banks of which are dressed in luxu-
riant verdure, and crowned with wood, afford some of
the beautiful views in the district. In the rivers, sal-
mon, trout, and perch are found.
The soil is for the most part somewhat gravelly, but
well cultivated and fertile ; clay is sometimes found
mixed with sand, and in several of the glens the soil is
loamy. There are 7097 acres cultivated or occasionally
in tillage ; 55,571 pasture or waste; in wood, 3139;
and common or disputed, 1315. No wheat is grown ;
but oats, barley, and potatoes are produced in very
heavy crops, especially if the land has been well
manured. The improvements in husbandry are con-
siderable, and a whole farm has lately been reclaimed
COMR
C O N T
by the proprietor of Dalginross, and yields a profitable
return. The chief breed of sheep is the black-faced,
which has been greatly improved by crossing it with
that of Crawford-Muir, in Dumfries-shire ; the Cheviots
and Leicesters are also common. The cattle are partly
of the Highland breed, and Ayrshire cows have been
generally introduced. There are extensive natural woods
of oak, ash, birch, alder, and hazel, for the two first of
which the soil is especially adapted ; fir and larch have
been plauted to a considerable extent, and thrive well.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £11,700. The
predominating rock is mica-slate ; in Glen-Lednock
granite is found, and in Glenartuey a considerable quan-
tity of clay-slate. In the lower grounds, as well as in
Glenartney, there is old red sandstone ; at Ardvorlich
marble has been discovered, and in some places lead has
been seen in small veins. Iron-ore is plentiful, and
from the numerous remains of furnaces for smelting, it
appears to have been wrought to some extent. There
are three slate quarries, and several of whinstone ; also a
limestone quarry, from which large supplies are obtained
for agricultural purposes. The chief mansions are those
of Dunira, Ardvorlich, Dalhonzie, Aberuchill, and Comrie
House.
The village of Comrie is a burgh of barony, under a
bailie, and there are several constables, one of whom
has the charge of a small lock-up house. The inhabit-
ants are employed to a very considerable extent in
manufactures ; there is a woollen-mill, and many per-
sons are engaged in the weaving of cotton for firms in
Glasgow and Perth. A distillery for whisky has also
been established. Five fairs are held annually, in March,
May, July, November, and December ; there is a post-
office in the village, and the turnpike-road from Perth
to Lochearnhead passes through the parish. The eccle-
siastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of Auch-
terarder and synod of Perth and Stirling ; the patronage
is exercised by the Crown, and the minister's stipend is
£250, with a manse, and two glebes, valued together at
£'22 per annum. The church, erected in 1S04, princi-
pally at the instance of Viscount Melville, is conve-
niently situated in the village; it is a handsome and
commodious edifice, with a spire, and contains 1250
sittings. At Dundurn is an ancient chapel, in which
the parish minister occasionally, and his assistant regu-
larly, officiates; it was nearly rebuilt in 1834, by sub-
scription, and will contain 400 persons. The members
of the Free Church and United Associate Synod have
places of worship ; and there is also a parocial school,
the master of which receives the maximum salary, with
about £45 fees, a house and garden, and teaches Greek,
French, mathematics, and the usual branches of educa-
tion. The village contains a parochial library of about
500 volumes ; there is also a small circulating library,
and two friendly societies have been founded by the inha-
bitants. Among the remains of antiquity in the parish
are the ruins of several Druidieal temples ; and a highly
venerated relic, also supposed to be Druidieal, is still pre-
served, which is said by antiquaries to be one of those
stones which were used as the official badge of the
Arch-Druids. On the hill by the village, is a handsome
monument to the memory of the first Lord Melville,
who erected the beautiful mansion-house at Dunira, and
made it. his favourite residence in the parliamentary
recess. The late Mr. Drummond, under-secretary, was
216
born in the parish, and was heir to the estate of
Comrie, which was sold to Lord Melville during his
minority.
CONANBRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Urqu-
hart and Logie Wester, county of Ross and Cro-
marty, 3 miles (S. by W.) from Dingwall ; containing
342 inhabitants. This is a prosperous village, situated
in the vicinity of a bridge over the river Conan, and on
the road between Inverness and Dingwall. The bridge
is of five arches, with 265 feet of water-way, and was
erected under the auspices of the parliamentary com-
missioners, by whom it was approved in October, 1809
CONDORAT, a village, in the parish of Cumber-
nauld, county of Dumbarton, 2^ miles (S. W.) from
Cumbernauld ; containing 709 inhabitants. It is situ-
ated on the north side of the river Logie, and on the
high road from Glasgow to Stirling. A part of the
population is employed in weaving and other manufac-
tures of the district. A school is aided by an annual
allowance from the heritors.
CONNAGE, a village, in the parish of Petty, county
of Inverness, a few miles (N. E.) from Inverness;
containing 97 inhabitants. This is a small fishing-place
on the east side of the Moray Frith, and on the road
from Inverness to Ardersier.
CONTIN, a parish, in the county of Ross and Cro-
marty', 8 miles (S. W. by W.) from Dingwall ; includ-
ing part of the late quoad sacra districts of Carnoch and
Kinlochlychart, and containing 1770 inhabitants. The
origin of the name of this place, which is involved in
considerable obscurity, is said to be Gaelic, the word
expressing the confluence of two streams of water. The
Druids appear to have had a residence here in ancient
times ; and from its strong places, the remains of which
are still visible, we may conclude Contin to have been,
in after ages, the theatre of several bloody encounters.
Indeed, the spot of Blaf nan Ceann, or " the field of
heads," derived its name from a sanguinary engagement
between the Mackenzies of Seaforth and the Macdonells
of Glengarry. The parish is thirty-three miles long,
and nearly of the same breadth ; the surface is moun-
tainous, and the scenery about the valleys and lakes,
especially Loch Achilty, is highly picturesque. The
chief streams are, the Conan, the Meig, and the Rasay,
which all unite at Moy, and form one large river that
takes the name of Conan, and empties itself into Cro-
marty Frith not far from the town of Dingwall. The
lakes are numerous ; the two most interesting are
Achilty and Kinellan, the former of which is famed for
its trout and char, and the latter for its artificial island,
based on piles of oak, and for a distinct echo. The
scenery of both is delightful.
The mountainous districts are used only for pasture,
but in the valleys, which are chiefly arable, the soil is
rich and productive. There are several farms of 150
acres each, all cultivated upon the most improved system
of husbandry ; a large part of the low land is covered
with wood, and a few tracts are planted with larch and
fir. The land has considerably increased in value during
the last half century ; in 1792 the rental scarcely reached
£1400, whereas the rateable annual value of the parish
now is £6406. The sheep are the black-faced and the
Cheviots, some of which have obtained competition
prizes, and the cattle are of the black Highland breed.
The strata of the parish are formed of gneiss, and some-
CORR
CORS
times red sandstone is found. The principal mansion
is Coul : Craigdarroch, within a short distance of Loch
Achilty, is surrounded by grounds elegantly laidout,
and commands a view of interesting lake scenery.
There is a fishery in the Conan and Rasay, in which the
finest salmon is taken ; the profits are estimated at £40
a year. The road to Lochcarron passes through the
parish, and there are several other roads for particular
districts. Fairs were held here, until lately, three times
in the year, but they have been discontinued. The
ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of
Dingwall and synod of Ross. The patronage is exer-
cised by the Crown ; the stipend of the minister is
£265, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £16 per
annum. The church, the date of which is uncertain,
has strong marks of having been built long prior to the
Reformation ; it underwent considerable repairs some
years ago, but is still an inconvenient and uncomfort-
able building. There is a parochial school, in which
the ordinary branches of education are taught, with
the classics and mathematics if required ; the master's
salary is £30, with from £8 to £10 fees. Another
school is supported by the Society for Propagating
Christian Knowledge, and a third by the Inverness
Education Society. The chief relics of antiquity are
the remains of a Druidical temple at the border of Loch
Achilty. On the estate of Hilton, are several chalybeate
springs of strong power.
COPAY ISLE, in the parish of Harris, county of
Inverness, 2 miles (S. W.) from the isle of Lewis. It
lies in the Sound of Harris, and is of small extent, and
uninhabited.
COPINSHAY, an island, in the parish of Deer-
ness, county of Orkney; containing 13 inhabitants.
It is about three-quarters of a mile in length, and half a
mile in breadth, lying about three miles directly east-
ward of the mainland, and contains some good ground,
both arable and pasture. The height of the perpen-
dicular rock on the east side of it is 300 feet, and there
is a large rock called the Horse of Copinshay on the
north-east, about 200 feet high, and distant half a mile.
Both of these rocks are covered with immense numbers
of sea-fowl in the spring and summer months ; and at
the period when they deposit their eggs and hatch their
young, if a gun be fired from a boat below, the birds,
alarmed by the report, fly from their nests in such
myriads as to darken the air for some extent around.
They are principally maws, nories, scarfs, auks, and
kittyauks.
CORNCAIRN, a village and burgh of barony, in the
parish of Ordiquhill, county of Banff, 6 miles (S.)
from Portsoy ; containing 94 inhabitants. This place
is situated in the neighbourhood of Cornhill, a village
on the road from Huntly to Banff, where several annual
fairs and cattle-markets are held, the latter well known
as the " Cornhill markets."
CORRIE, a village, in the Isle of Arran, parish of
Kilbride, county of Bute; containing 222 inhabitants.
It is situated on the eastern shore of the island, about
three miles and a half north of Brodick bay and castle.
There is a small harbour, with a quay, but it is only
accessible to vessels at high water. A school has been
established in the village.
CORRIE, county of Dumfries. — See Hutton and
Corrie.
Vol. I.— 217
CORSOCK, a hamlet, in the parish of Parton,
stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 9 miles (E. by S.) from
New Galloway ; containing 38 inhabitants. It lies in
the eastern confines of the parish, near the Urr water,
and south of the high road from New Galloway to
Dumfries.
CORSTORPHINE, a parish, in the county of Edin-
burgh ; including the village of Gogar, and containing
1551 inhabitants, of whom 3/2 are in the village of
Corstorphine, 4 miles (w.) from Edinburgh, on the
road to Glasgow. This place, of which the name is of
uncertain origin, "appears to have been, from a very
early period, the property and residence of families of
distinction, of whom David le Mareschall held posses-
sion of it in the reign of Alexander II. The estate sub-
sequently became the property, in 13*6, of Adam For-
rester, ancestor of the lords Forrester, and who, in
1373, was provost of Edinburgh, and, in 1390, was
made keeper of the great seal by Robert III., who em-
ployed him in frequent embassies to England. In 1446,
the castle of Corstorphine was destroyed, and the lands
laid waste, by Chancellor Crichton and his military
vassals, in retaliation of a similar outrage on his castle
of Brankstoun, by Sir John Forrester and Sir William
Douglas. In 1572, the castle was garrisoned by the
Earl of Mar, regent of the kingdom, with a view to
prevent the sending of supplies to the castle of Edin-
burgh, at that time held for Mary, Queen of Scots, by
William Kirkaldy of Grange. In 1650, General Leslie
drew up his forces on the meadows to the east of the
village, to check the proceedings of Cromwell, whose
army was posted on the Pentland hills. Cromwell, in
order to force him to an engagement, advanced for the
purpose of interposing a body of men between him and
Linlithgow; but Leslie, marching westward from his
former position, intrenched his forces on the field of
Gogar, and his opponent, finding it impracticable to dis-
lodge him in consequence of the marshy nature of the
ground, retreated, after a sharp skirmish, to Mussel-
burgh. Cromwell, however, afterwards took possession
of this place ; and his forces, in retaliation of the oppo-
sition they had experienced from Lord Forrester, muti-
lated the tombs and monuments of that family in the
church, the interior of which they nearly destroyed, and
utterly laid waste the surrounding lands.
The parish, which includes part of the ancient parish
of Gogar, with the lands of Ravelston and Saughton,
detached from the parish of St. Cuthbert in 1633, con-
tains about 2650 acres, exclusively of plantations, roads,
and waste. The surface, which is generally level, is
diversified with a gentle elevation near the village, and,
towards the north-east, by the beautiful hill of Corstor-
phine, which rises to a height of 474 feet above the sea,
and is clothed to its very summit with rich plantations.
The streams in the parish, are the Leith water and
Gogar burn, of which the former flows through the
eastern portion of the lands, and the latter into the
river Almond. The soil is in general fertile, producing
abundant crops, and the meadows and pastures are
luxuriant; the system of agriculture is in a highly im-
proved state, and around the village are large tracts of
garden ground, from which great quantities of fruit are
sent to Edinburgh. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £9964. On Corstorphine Hill are several
quarries of fine freestone, from which were taken the
2 F
CO R S
C O RT
materials for the erection of the Parliament House,
Heriot's hospital, and various other public buildings ;
but they have for many years been abandoned, with the
exception of one which has recently been drained. There
are also some quarries of blue whinstone in the parish.
On the acclivity of Corstorphine Hill is Ravelston
House, and around its base are many noble mansions,
among which are Beechwood and Belmont. Within
the parish are also, Saughton House, Clermiston, and
Gogar. The village is beautifully situated at the base
of the hill, on a slight elevation above the meadows on
either side, and was for many years a favourite resort
of the citizens of Edinburgh, of whom, many made it
their summer residence. Near it was, till lately, a
slightly sulphureous spring, which, in 1749, was in such
high repute that a stage coach was established for the
conveyance of visiters, making nine journeys daily
between- this place and Edinburgh. A small pump-
room was erected over the w«ll, by one of tire Dick
family ; but it was suffered to fall into decay, and by
the sinking of a ditch near the spot within the last few
years, the spring has entirely disappeared. The village
of Stanhope-Mills, on the lands of Saughton, contains
an ancient house, over the doorway of which are the
armorial bearings of Patrick Elphingston, with his
initials and the date 1623; and one of the rooms, of
which the roof is richly ornamented, has on the wall
the royal arms, with the initials C. R. II.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Edinburgh and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister has a stipend of
£242, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per
annum ; patron, Sir Robert Keith Dick, Bart. The
church, which was formerly collegiate, was founded in
1429, and dedicated to St. John the Baptist, by Sir John
Forrester, who endowed it for a provost, five preben-
daries, and two choristers. It is a venerable cruciform
structure in the later English style, with a handsome
tower and spire, and, notwithstanding the mutilation it
suffered from Cromwell's soldiers, retains much of its ori-
ginal character and beauty. The roof is plainly groined,
and is supported by ranges of clustered columns with
richly- moulded arches and ornamented capitals ; there
are numerous monuments of the Forrester family, whose
recumbent effigies are finely sculptured, and various other
ancient tombs. A small portion of the church of Gogar
is still remaining, and has been converted into a sepul-
chral chapel by the proprietor of the lands. At the east
end of Corstorphine church, a lamp was formerly kept
burning to guide the traveller, for the maintenance of
which an acre of land near Coltsbridge, thence called the
Lamp Acre, was allotted, and now forms an endowment
for the parish schoolmaster. There is a place of wor-
ship for members of the Free Church. The parochial
school is attended by about seventy scholars ; the master
has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the
acre of land before noticed ; the fees average about £20.
The poor's fund is about £450, arising from bequests.
On the taking down of the remains of Corstorphine
Castle, towards the close of the last century, a large
number of gold and silver coins were found ; and on
the erection of Gogar House in 1811, several remains of
Roman antiquity were discovered, consisting of a dagger
with part, of the scabbard, a fibula, and a gold ring of
very slender substance. Numerous stone coffins have
218
been found at various times on the lands of Gogar, and
the spot is supposed to have been the original place of
sepulture of the ancient parish, or not improbably the
site of General Leslie's encampment, where bodies of the
slain were interred.
CORTACHY and CLOVA, a parish, in the county
of Forfar, 4 miles (N.) from Kirriemuir; containing
867 inhabitants. The former of these ancient parishes,
which were united in 1608, is supposed to have derived
its name, anciently Quartachie, from a Gaelic term
descriptive of the situation of its church and castle in a
small valley surrounded with elevated lands. The name
of the latter parish is of very uncertain derivation.- The
barony of Cortachy belonged, at a very early period, to
the family of Ogilvy, ancestors of the earls of Airlie,
and whose baronial castle here has, for many generations,
been their chief seat, and is still the residence of the
present earl. The district of Cortachy is about ten
miles in length, and nearly four in average breadth, of
somewhat triangular form, narrow at the southern extre-
mity, where it is bounded by the confluence of the rivers
South-Esk and Prosen, and comprising about 23,700
acres. Clova, which is nearly of equal length, and
varying from two to almost four miles in breadth, is situ-
ated to the north-west of Cortachy, and comprises an
area, of 19,000 acres, making a total in the whole parish
of nearly 43,000 acres, of which about 3540 are arable,
1000 woodland and plantations, and the remainder
mountain pasture and waste.
.. The surface is boldly diversified, and embellished
with features of picturesque beauty and majestic gran-
deur in striking contrast. The southern portion of
Cortachy is chiefly mountainous, and forms part of one
of the Grampian ranges, extending nearly through the en-
tire length of the district, and declining on the south and
south-west towards the river Prosen, and on the north
and north-east towards the South Esk. Opposite to this
mountainous range is another of greater elevation, stretch-
ing through the whole of the parish ; and between them
are the beautiful and richly-cultivated vales of Wateresk
and Clova. The latter vale on the north, is divided by a
lofty mountain into two narrow glens, of which one takes
a north-west, and the other a south-western direction.
From these glens, the adjacent mountains appear in all
their towering grandeur, varying in height from 1500 to
more than 3000 feet, and presenting a combination of
bold and precipitous masses of barren rock, immense
heights, covered to their very summits with various kinds
of grasses, and hills of stupendous elevation, affording
excellent pasturage for cattle and sheep. The river South
Esk has one of its sources in the lake of that name, and
another, of still greater power, in the mountain rivulet
of Falfearnie ; it flows through the parish for nearly
twenty miles, receiving in its course numerous tributary
streams, among which is the Whitewater. Loch Esk,
situated among the mountains, six miles to the north-
west of the vale of Clova, is about half a mile in cir-
cumference, of comparatively inconsiderable depth, and
surrounded with scenery rather of bleak and rugged
character. Loch Wharral, in the heart of the moun-
tainous district at the north-eastern boundary of the
parish, and about 1000 feet above the level of the Esk,
is a mile in circumference, and of very considerable
depth. About two miles to the north-east of Loch
Wharral, is Loch Brany, on the same side of the moun-
C O R T
COUL
tain range, and nearly at a similar elevation ; it is about
a mile and a half in circumference, and in some parts
of great depth. These lakes abound with trout, and
many are also found in the river, of large size and good
flavour, as are sea trout during the summer, Salmon,
too, are found in the Esk, towards the middle of Sep-
tember.
The soil is very various. The greater portion of that
in the arable lands is. sharp and gravelly, inclining in
some parts to a fertile loam, and in others to a thin
stony sand. In the southern districts of the parish it is
much mixed with clay, and along the bases of the hills,
partly a fine deep mould, and partly hard and stony,
alternated with moss. In the valleys there is a rich
deposit of alluvial soil, inclining to sand, with alterna-
tions of moss, and in other parts a deep sandy loam.
The principal crops are, oats, barley, wheat, turnips, and
potatoes ; the system of agriculture is improved, and the
rotation plan of husbandry is generally practised. Great
attention is paid to the management of live stock ; the
cattle chiefly reared are the Angus breed, of middling
size, and generally disposed of when two or three years
old. The mountains afford pasture for great numbers of
sheep, which are mostly of the black-faced and Cheviot
breeds ; and in addition to those reared in the parish,
great numbers are bought when young, and fed till three
or four years old, when they are sold at high prices.
The woods consist of oak, ash, mountain-ash, elm, plane,
beech, chesnut, alder, and birch ; and the plantations, of
larch, and Scotch, spruce, white and black American, and
silver' firs. Much attention is paid to pruning and
thinning at proper times, especially on the lands of the
Earl of Airlie, to whom the gold medal of the Highland
Society was adjudged in 1830, for his extensive improve-
ments. The rocks are of red sandstone, pudding-s_tone,
whinstone, serpentine, mica-schist, gneiss, clay-slate,
quartz, and granite ; limestone is also found, but unless
taken from a considerable depth, is not of very good
quality. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£3S87.
Cortachy Castle, the seat of the earl, is a spacious and
ancient structure with modern additions, beautifully situ-
ated in a small valley on the south side of the river
Esk : the date of the more ancient part, and the name of
the original founder, are both unknown. Of the castle of
Clova but little remains ; it is said to have been destroyed
by Cromwell, during the parliamentary war. Facility of
communication with the neighbouring towns is afforded by
good roads, of which that to Strathmore passes through
the whole length of the parish. Fairs for cattle and
sheep are held on the farm of Collovv, on the last Friday
in April, and fourth Monday in October ; the latter is
one of the largest sheep markets in the country, and the
number of sheep sold is generally from 8000 to 12,000.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Forfar and synod of
Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend is £172. 19.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum ;
patron, the Earl of Airlie. The present church of
Cortachy, situated near the southern extremity of the
parish, was erected on the site of the former edifice, in
1829, by the earl, at an expense of £2000 ; it is a hand-
some structure, containing 550 sittings, all of which
are free. The church of Clova, about ten miles distant
from that of Cortachy, is an ancient structure, repaired
"219
and enlarged by the erection of a gallery in 1731, and
recently repewed. It contains 250 sittings, all of which
are free, except the gallery, which is let for the benefit of
the poor. Near it is a good house for a missionary,
who officiates alternately in this church and the chapel
of Glenprosen, and who has a regular stipend of £30
from Royal Bounty, £30 from the inhabitants, and
£21 from the Earl of Airlie. The parochial school is
situated near the church of Cortachy ; the master has a
salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees
average about £15. The parochial library has a collec-
tion of 200 volumes, chiefly the gift of the earl and
countess.
COT-TOWN, a hamlet, in the parish of St: Madoes,
county of Perth ; containing 62 inhabitants. It is one
of the only two small hamlets in the parish : in its
vicinity is a sandstone quarry.
COTTACK, a village, in the parish of Dunscore,
county of Dumfries, 9 miles (N. W.) from Dumfries;
containing. 252 inhabitants. This village is built on
ele-vattd ground, and is very centrally situated, being
nearly equidistant from the tvvo extremes of the parish ;
the population consists of agricultural labourers and a
few artisans and mechanics. The Cairn, a considerable
stream, tributary. to the Nith, and in which fine trout
are obtained, passes to the west of the village. Here is
the parish church, and one of the three parochial
schools.
COTTON OF LOWNIE, a village, in the parish of
Dunnichen, county of Forfar, 3 miles (E. S. E.) from
Forfar; containing 100 inhabitants. It is seated a little
south of the road from Forfar to Dunnichen, and about
a mile south-west of the latter village.
COULL, a parish, in the district of Kincardine
O'Neil, county of Aberdeen, 2f miles (E. S. E.) from
Tarland ; containing 744 inhabitants. This place is
supposed to have taken its name, which signifies a
" corner," from its situation in the south-eastern ex-
tremity of the district of Cromar. The parish measures
six miles in average length, and three in breadth, com-
prising about 7620 acres, of which 2300 are arable ;
5000 are uncultivated pasture ; nearly 100 of these,
however, being capable of profitable cultivation ; and
320 acres are under wood, chiefly planted within the
last twenty years. The surface is level to a consider-
able extent, especially in the centre, where is a marshy
tract called Bogmore ; there are, however, several por-
tions of high land, and between this parish and those of
Aboyne and Lumphanan, stretches a mountain range
containing the peaks called the hill of Gellan, Mort-
lich, Leadhlich, and the hill of Corse. The soil in the
low grounds is generally of good quality, and compre-
hends a large portion of rich loam, resting on a gravelly
subsoil ; but on the hills it only affords indifferent pas-
ture. Great improvements in agriculture have been
effected during the last twenty years, especially on the
estate of Corse, where almost every thing has been
done which could contribute to change its neglected
appearance, and increase the value of the property,
which is now one of the most beautiful and desirable in
the county. In other parts of the district, much land
has been brought into cultivation ; draining and inclos-
ing have been successfully practised, and the larger part
of Bogmore, formerly so prejudicial to the climate of
the locality, has been partly converted into pasture, and
2 F 2
C O V I
COWI
partly into arable land. In the process of draining the
ground, which was an alluvial deposit incumbent on
moss, fragments of immense oaks were found imbedded.
The rocks in the hills are chiefly red and white granite.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £2197- The
knitting of stockings is carried on, and there is a wool-
carding mill, at which blankets and coarse woollen-
cloths are manufactured. The parish was formerly
attached to the abbey of Arbroath, but is now in the
presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil and synod of Aberdeen,
and in the patronage of Sir John Forbes, Bart., of Crai-
gievar. The minister's stipend is £161. 5. 7-, of which
about half is received from the exchequer, with a
manse, built in 1S32, and a glebe of four acres, valued
at £7 per annum. The church is a plain building,
erected in 1792 ; it has a good-toned bell, of consider-
able size, cast in Holland in the year 1644, and pre-
sented by Mr. Ross, of Mill of Coull. A large portion
of the parish has long been annexed, for ecclesiastical
purposes, to the parish of Leochel and Cushnie. The
parochial school affords instruction in the usual branches ;
the master has a salary of £26, with about £15 fees, and
£40 from the Dick bequest. The ruins of the castle of
Corse, erected in 1581, by William Forbes, father of
Bishop Patrick Forbes, are still to be seen ; and there-
mains ofthatof Coull are also visible, on a rocky eminence
near the church. This ancient structure, the seat of the
Durwards, a family of great power, was of quadrangular
form, with large hexagonal towers at the angles, the
whole surrounded by a fosse, and appears to have been
a fortification of considerable extent and strength. On
the summit of a small hill is a Druidical circle, and
traces of a chapel called Turry Chapel, yet remain on
the lands of Corse.
COUPAR-ANGUS, Forfarshire.— See Cupar-
Angus.
COVE, a village, in the parish of Nigg, county of
Kincardine, 5 miles (S. S. E.) from Aberdeen ; con-
taining 421 inhabitants. This place, which is situated
on the shore of the North Sea, derives its name from
one of those numerous small bays or coves with which
the coast is here indented, and is inhabited by persons
employed in the fisheries. The fish taken are chiefly
salmon, white-fish of various kinds, and lobsters, crabs,
and other shell-fish. The salmon are caught in bag-
nets, and are packed in ice, and sent to the London
market ; and during the season, nine boats, varying
from ten to fourteen tons' burthen, with crews of six
men each, are engaged in the herring-fishery off the
north coast. The cove, which forms a small natural
harbour, affords sufficient shelter for the boats belonging
to the place. A school has been established for the
accommodation of this distant portion of the parish ;
the master has a house and garden, with £7 from a
bequest, in addition to the fees, which average £15.
COVINGTON and THANKESTON, a parish, in the
Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 4 miles (W. by N.)
from Biggar ; containing 523 inhabitants. Of these an-
cient parishes, which were united about the beginning of
the 18th century, the former derives its name, anciently
Colbanstoun, from its proprietor Colban, in the 12th cen-
tury ; and the latter, from a Flemish settler namedTankard
or Thankard, who obtained a grant of lands here during
the reign of Malcolm IV. The parish is about four
miles in length, from south to north, and nearly three
220
in average breadth, and is bounded on the east by the
river Clyde, which separates it from the parish of
Libberton. The number of acres is about 5500, of
which nearly 2000 are arable, 80 acres woodland and
plantations, and the remainder sheep pasture. The
surface is varied, and the scenery in many parts of
pleasing character. The soil along the banks of the
Clyde is rich and fertile, and the lands occasionally
subject to inundation ; in the higher grounds are some
portions of barren heath, but they generally afford
good pasturage to numerous flocks of sheep. The
system of agriculture is in an improved state ; the
chief crops are, oats, barley, peas, potatoes, and tur-
nips. The lands have been much benefited by furrow-
draining ; considerable progress has been made in
inclosing the several farms, and the farm-buildings
and offices are in a very superior condition. The
cattle are chiefly of the Angus breed, and the sheep
of the black-faced kind. There is but little wood in
the parish, and much improvement might be made,
both in the appearance of the lands and in affording
shelter, by a judicious increase of plantation. The
Clyde abounds with trout and pike of considerable
size. The villages of Covington and Thankeston are
pleasantly situated, and at the latter is a bridge over
the Clyde, which was erected by subscription, in 1778.
The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Biggar and synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is
£208. 13. 7-j with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£17- 10. ; patrons alternately, Sir Norman Lockhart,
Bart., and Sir Windham Anstruther. The church of
Thankeston has been suffered to fall into ruins, and
that of Covington has been enlarged for the population
of the whole parish. The parochial school is in the
village of Covington ; the master has a salary of £28,
with a house and garden, and the fees average about
£16 per annum.
COWCADDENS, a village, in the late ecclesiastical
district of St. Stephen's, within the jurisdiction of the
city of Glasgow, county of Lanark, § a mile (N.)
from Glasgow. This is a populous village, till lately
forming, with Port-Dundas and Woodside, one of the
divisions recently separated from Barony parish. It
is chiefly occupied by persons employed in hand-
loom weaving, and in the various factories in the
vicinity of Glasgow. There are five schools, of which
one is in connexion with the Roman Catholics, and
two are female schools.
COWDEN-BEATH, a village, in the parish of
Beath, district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 5 a
mile (S. E.) from Beath ; containing 127 inhabitants.
It is in the south-eastern part of the parish, a short
distance west of the road from Aberdour to Kinross.
COWIE, a village, in the parish of Fetteresso,
county of Kincardine, 1 mile (N.) from Stonehaven ;
containing 174 inhabitants. This village is situated at
the mouth of the river Cowie, which falls into a bay of
that name, forming a small and commodious harbour;
and is chiefly inhabited by fishermen, who, during the
season, are also engaged in the herring-fisheries on the
coast. The principal fish taken here are haddocks,
of which great numbers are cured, and sent by the
Aberdeen steamers to the London market ; cod, ling,
and various other fish are also found in abundance.
COYL
CO YL
Eight boats are employed, each having a crew of five
men. On the summit of a rock overlooking the bay,
are the remains of an ancient castle which, upon very
doubtful authority, is supposed by some writers to have
been originally built bjr Malcolm Canmore.
COWPITS, a village, in the parish of Inveresk,
county of Edinburgh ; containing 116 inhabitants. It
is one of a few small villages in the parish, chiefly
occupied by colliers.
COWSLAND, a village, in the parish of Cranston,
county of Edinburgh, 3 miles (E. N. E.) from Dalkeith j
containing 226 inhabitants. It is a neat village, situ-
ated in the northern part of the parish, on the road
from Dalkeith to Ormiston. In the neighbourhood are
some limestone quarries ; and to the east of the village
is Cowsland Park. A school-house is furnished to a
teacher by the families in the vicinity.
COYLTON, a parish, in the county of Ayr, 5 miles
(S. E.) from Ayr ; containing, with the villages of Craig-
hall, Gadgirth-holm and Bankfoot, Joppa, and Knock-
shaggle-holm, 1484 inhabitants. This place, the name
of which is of uncertain derivation, was augmented,
about the beginning of the 18th century, by the quoad
sacra annexation of a portion of land, lying on the
north and east sides of the river Coyl, and then in-
cluded in the parish of Ochiltree. It measures twelve
miles in extreme length, and nearly two in average
breadth, and comprises 11,515 acres, of which more
than 8000 are cultivated, nearly S00 under wood, con-
sisting chiefly of forest trees, and the remainder in
pasture. The river Ayr flows for nearly four miles
along its north-west boundary, separating it from
Tarbolton and St. Quivox ; and from this stream the
surface rises south-easterly, in a series of undulations,
to the heights called the Craigs of Coyl, attaining an
elevation of 750 feet above the level of the sea. After
this, the land advances to a loftier ridge, forming the
boundary line in this direction, and commanding, from
an elevation of 1100 feet, an extensive and richly diver-
sified prospect oh all sides. The scenery is much
improved by the lochs named Martnaham, Snipe, and
Fergus, the first of which, partly in the parish of Dal-
rymple, is a mile and a half long, and about a furlong
broad, abounding in pike, perch, and eels, and much
frequented by wild-ducks, geese, widgeon, teal, and
other water-fowl. Loch Fergus, a fine piece of water
extending over about twenty-five acres, contains a well-
wooded island, said to have been in ancient times the
seat of a monastery, and is supposed by some to have
taken its name from King Fergus, who defeated Coilus,
king of the Britons, in the adjacent fields. There is
also a lake called Loch End, which covers about three
acres ; and in most of the lakes fish of the usual kinds
is found, as well as in the rivers, which are also well
stocked with yellow trout. The river Coyl, which rises
in the parish, displays a beautiful cascade in the vici-
nity of Sundrum Castle, where the river is about twenty-
five feet wide ; the fall is about thirteen feet in depth,
and on the swelling of the stream, is greatly increased
in its picturesque effect.
The soil in general is a retentive clay, producing
chiefly oats, but wheat also is grown, as well as all
other kinds of grain, and beans, potatoes, turnips, and
the various grasses. The husbandry of the parish is
not so much in advance as that of many other parts,
221
but improvements are in progress, especially furrow-
draining, and subsoil ploughing is practised to a limited
extent. The dairy is much regarded, and what is
called Dunlop cheese is made in large quantities, fre-
quently of excellent quality, and, with the butter, milk,
and other dairy produce, is relied on for the payment
of nearly half the rent. The cattle are mostly of the
pure Ayrshire breed, but a few of the West Highland
or Galloway are kept on the higher grounds ; the sheep
were formerly the black-faced, but these, for several
years, have been crossed with the Cheviots, and the
latter stock now generally prevails. The rateable an-
nual value of Coylton is £8144. The working of the
subterraneous contents of the parish occupies a consi-
derable portion of the manual labour of the district ;
coal, limestone, ironstone, plumbago, clay-slate, basalt,
several varieties of freestone, and fire-clay, are all found
here, and several of them are wrought to some extent.
Three coal-mines, a limestone quarry, and three
quarries of sandstone, are in operation ; and black-lead
obtained from this part, for many years, supplied an
article of traffic, but its quality not allowing a compe-
tition with the Cumberland and foreign lead, the mine
has been abandoned. Clay-slate, celebrated for sharp-
ening iron instruments, was also once extensively quar-
ried ; but the material being found in abundance, and
of superior quality, in the adjoining parish of Stair,
the works have been discontinued. The value of the
mineral produce is averaged at £6000 annually. The
plantations are chiefly in the lower part of the parish,
and, being in a thriving condition, especially in the
vicinity of the rivers, add greatly to the agreeable cha-
racter of the scenery ; they are mostly of larch and
Scotch fir, but oak, beech, ash, elm, birch, and several
other kinds are plentiful.
The mansion of Sundrum, pleasantly situated on the
bank of the Coyl, and commanding extensive views, is
partly ancient and partly modern ; the old walls are
in some portions twelve feet, thick, and have castellated
summits. Gadgirth House, another seat, is a plain
oblong modern structure, on the bank of the Ayr river,
and occupies the site of Gadgirth Castle, once a place
of note, and the residence of the family of Chalmers,
who, being very friendly to the Reformation, warmly
patronized the celebrated John Knox, and allowed him
to preach in the castle. The great road from Ayr to
Dumfries, through Nithsdale, traverses the centre of
the parish. Coylton is in the presbytery of Ayr and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of
the Crown ; the minister's stipend is £254. 8. 4., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £12 per annum. The
old church, the ruin of which is still partly standing,
belonged in ancient times to the bishopric of Glasgow ;
the present edifice, which is small but handsome, was
built in 1836, and is a cruciform structure, with a
square tower sixty feet high, containing a good bell.
The parochial school affords instruction in the ordinary
branches, the classics, and mathematics ; the master
has a salary of £30, with a house, and £20 fees. A
few years since, several silver coins of the reigns of
Elizabeth, James VI., and Charles I., were dug up.
The Rev. John Black, LL.D., author of the LifeofTasso,
and who died in the year 1825, was minister of Coylton
for fifteen years ; he was a native of the parish of
Douglas, in the county of Lanark.
CRAI
C R A I
CRAGGANESTERand CRAGGANTOUL, hamlets,
in the parish of Weem, county of Perth, 7 miles
(S. W.) from Fortingal ; containing respectively 23
and 20 inhabitants. These are neighbouring places,
situated in one of the detached portions of the parish,
and on the western border of Loch Tay. The road
from Fortingal to Killin passes in the vicinity of both
hamlets.
CRAICHIE, a village, in the parish of Dunnichen,
county of Forfar, 1| mile (W. S. W.) from Letham ;
containing 70 inhabitants. It is on one of the roads be-
tween Forfar and Letham, and about a mile south of
Dunnichen church. The parochial church is in the
village.
CRAIG, a parish, in the county of Forfar, \ a mile
(S. by W.) from Montrose ; containing, with the vil-
lages of Ferryden, Usan, and Rossie, 1945 inhabitants.
This place was formerly called Inchbrayock, the " island
of trout," by which name an island of thirty-four Scotch
acres within the parish is still known. Craig was at
that time only the designation of one of the chief
estates, and it is supposed that, when the place of wor-
ship was transferred from the island to the property of
Craig on the continental part of the district, the name
of Craig, which is naturally derived from the rocky
nature of the shore, was extended to the whole of the
parish. The parish comprehends two distinct titula-
rities, viz., Craig and St. Skeoch, which were united in
the year 1618, and the latter of which, pronounced St.
Skay, is said to have received its name from one of the
northern saints. The site of an ancient religious edifice
on the coast is still called the chapel of St. Skay ; a
small burying-place round the spot is occasionally used
for interments, and the site of the manse is pointed out
in a neighbouring field. Craig appears to have been a
feudal barony, a field behind the house being still
called Law-field ; an adjoining farm-steading, also, is
styled Balgovie, that is, Withie, or prison-house, and a
rising ground on the property bears the name of Govan-
hill, the Withie-hill, or place of execution.
The parish is about six miles long, and two and a
half in extreme breadth, and comprises 5138 acres,
2 roods, 37 perches of land. It is partly bounded by a
basin about nine miles in circumference, through which
the river South Esk flows into the sea, and which is
filled with the tide at high water. This basin separates
the parish on the north from the town and harbour of
Montrose, and on the south-east is the German Ocean.
The surface gradually rises from the north and east
towards the south-west, where it attains a height of
400 feet above the level of the sea. The coast is rocky,
and towards the south quite precipitous ; it forms
about five miles of the boundary line of the parish, and
has Montrose bay and ness on the north, and Lunan
bay and Boddin point on the south. The shores
abound in all kinds of fish, which are taken in great
numbers in the respective seasons. The soil in the
middle of the parish is a strong rich loam ; towards the
eastern quarter it is sandy, and in some places, espe-
cially in the /western portion, it is damp and moorish.
About 3509 acres are cultivated, 331 waste or pasture,
757 undivided common, belonging to the parishes of
Craig, Marytown, Farnell, and Kinnell, and 291 acres
are under wood, comprising almost all the trees usually
grown. Grain of every kind, with the principal green
222
crops, is cultivated in the parish ; and as the husbandry
adopted comprehends all the most approved usages, the
average crops, both as to quantity and quality, are of a
superior character. The cattle are the Angusshire
black, without horns, and the sheep are chiefly the
black-faced Highland breed. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £9645.
The rocks consist of the old red sandstone and lime-
stone, intermixed with several varieties of trap, in which
very fine specimens of the Scotch pebble are often found
imbedded. There are some quarries of the trap forma-
tion, which is in considerable demand for building, buc
requires, for facings, the more ornamental material
of sandstone. The mansions are, the house of Rossie,
built in 1S00; the villa of Inchbrayock, built in 1813;
the house of Usan, in 1820 ; and that of Dunninald, in
1825. A few of the inhabitants are employed in manu-
factures ; but the principal attention of the population
is divided between agriculture and fishing, the produce
of the latter of which amounts in value to about £7000
annually. The salmon taken is mostly packed in ice,
and sent to the Edinburgh and London markets. The
turnpike-road from Montrose to Arbroath passes
through the parish ; and the Inverness mail, and the
Aberdeen and Montrose coaches travel daily on it.
During the summer, also, the steam-boat from Aberdeen
to Leith touches at the village of Usan. There are har-
bours at Ferryden and Boddin, large enough for small
sloops with coal and lime, and piers and warehouses
are expected shortly to be built at Ferryden : the dues
belong to the town of Montrose. Facility of intercourse
is likewise afforded by several bridges, the chief of which
is a magnificent suspension-bridge over the South Esk,
opening an immediate communication with Montrose.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the pres-
bytery of Brechin and synod of Angus and Mearns ;
patrons, the College of St. Mary, in St. Andrew's.
There is a good manse, built in 1805, with a glebe
valued at £24 per annum ; the stipend is £257. The
church, which is an elegant structure, with a square
tower, eighty feet high, was built in 1799, at the ex-
pense of the late Mrs. Ross, of Rossie, and was for many
years after its erection the only church in the county pos-
sessed of any architectural beauty. It contains 800 sit-
tings, all of which are free. A place of worship has been
erected in connexion with the Free Church. There is a
parochial school, in which the classics, mathematics,
navigation, and all the usual branches of education are
taught ; the master has a good house and garden, with
a salary of £34, and about £17 fees. The parish also
contains three libraries, to which the inhabitants have
access gratis ; two of these are small, but the third, in-
stituted in 1809, consists of nearly 600 volumes, and has
proved of great utility. Among the chief remains of anti-
quity is the Castle of Craig, situated on the northern
side of the parish, and formerly a place of considerable
strength ; it has a square tower and gateway, apparently
of great age, but in good preservation, and a part
of it, bearing the date of 1634, is still occupied as a
dwelling-house. Near Boddin, on the south coast, are
the remains of an old castle called Black Jack, supposed
to be thus named in comparison with Red Castle on
the opposite side of the bay. A strong earthen fort,
also, with out-works, and accommodation within for
men and ammunition, was to be seen, a few years ago,
C R A I
CRAI
at the point where the South Esk falls into the sea ; it
is said to have been used in Cromwell's time, but it is
not known by whom it was built. Cannon were placed
at it in 1745. The celebrated Archbishop Leighton
was descended from a family of some celebrity in former
times, who were proprietors of the lands of Usan ; and
the well known Andrew Melville was born at Baldovie,
in the northern part of the parish.
CRAIG OF MADDERTY, a burgh of barony, in
the parish of Madderty, county of Perth ; containing,
with the village of St. David's, 1S1 inhabitants. The
estate of Craig, on which the village is built, was erected
in 1626 into a free burgh of barony, through the instru-
mentality of Lord John Madderty, by charter confer-
ring power to hold a market every Friday, with four
fairs yearly. Courts have been held occasionally within
the barony, for settling disputes ; but the village has
latterly very much declined, and in its place has risen
that of St. David's, in which is a school.
CRAIGDALLIE, a hamlet, in the parish of Kin-
naird, county of Perth ; containing 52 inhabitants.
CRAIGEND, a village, in the late quoad sacra parish
of Crosshill, parish of Old Monkland, Middle ward
of the county Lanark, A\ miles (E. S. E.) from Glas-
gow ; containing SO inhabitants. It is situated on the
bank of the river Clyde, which here makes a consider-
able bend, and on the road from Glasgow to Bellshill, in
the parish of Bothwell.
CRAIGEjND, a hamlet, in the East parish of the
city and county of Perth ; containing 47 inhabitants.
CRAIGHALL, a village, in the parish of Coylton,
district of Kyle, county of Ayr ; containing 100 inha-
bitants. A coal-mine of some extent has been in opera-
tion at this place for a number of years, and is one of
three large coal-mines of the parish.
CRAIGHALL and NEW CRAIGHALL, villages,
the former in the parish of Inveresk, and the latter
chiefly in Inveresk parish, but partly in that of Lib-
berton, county of Edinburgh ; containing respec-
tively 501 and 336 inhabitants. Craighall is situated
about two miles south- south- west of Musselburgh, and
on the east of the inclined plane of the branch of the
railway to that town from Edinburgh. Coal is abun-
dant, and in the vicinity are extensive coal-mines.
Close to the village is Pinkie House, the seat of Sir John
Hope, Bart. ; it was originally a country seat of the
abbots of Dunfermline, and after the Reformation be-
came private property. Although still a large structure,
it is evidently only part of a magnificent design.
CRAIGIE and BARNWEILL, a parish, in the dis-
trict of Kyle, county of Ayr, 4 miles (S.) from Kil-
marnock ; containing 779 inhabitants. Craigie was
disjoined from the parish of Riccarton in 1647, and
in 1673, it received an augmentation by the annexation
of the suppressed parish of Barnweill, the larger part of
the stipend of which, however, was transferred to the
minister of the newly-erected parish of Stair. The
parish is about seven miles long, and one and a half
broad. The scenery is pleasingly varied ; the hills near
the church rise about 500 feet above the level of the
sea, and are covered with verdure to the summit, ex-
cepting where a craggy rock occasionally protrudes.
The views presented from the heights are extensive and
beautiful, and the lands are ornamented with several
lochs, some of which, however, are partly in adjoining
223
parishes; Loch Brown covers nearly 100 acres, and
is about half in this parish, the remaining part being
in those of Mauchline and Tarbolton. The parish com-
prises 6300 acres, almost entirely under cultivation.
The principal kind of grain raised, and nearly the only
kind, is oats ; the pastures are extensive ; several tracts
are under rye-grass and meadow-grass, and the re-
mainder of the green crops consist of beans, potatoes,
and a few turnips. The farms average about ninety
acres, and besides a tolerable proportion of sheep, of a
mixed breed, between 7 00 and 800 milch cows are kept,
and upwards of 400 young cows and calves ; the milk is
chiefly used for cheese, and the stock sold at Kilmar-
nock. The parish contains a corn-mill, turned by the
waters of one of the lochs. Various improvements
have taken place in agriculture, but that which has
been most beneficial is furrow-draining, which has been
carried to a great extent ; the farm-houses are substan-
tial and well fitted-up, and about half of them are slate.
The plantations cover 170 acres. Three limestone
quarries, and a tile-work, lately erected, are in opera-
tion ; and coal of several kinds was formerly wrought.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £8058.
There are three mansions, named Cairnhill, Barn-
weill, and Underwood, the first of which consists of an
ancient tower still strong, and in very good repair, with
a modern portion attached. Barnweill is a neat resi-
dence, built towards the latter part of the last century ;
and Underw:ood, a commodious house, was erected
about the same time. The parish is in the presbytery
of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the pa-
tronage of James Campbell, Esq., of Craigie ; the minis-
ter's stipend is £247, with a manse, and a glebe of five
acres, valued at £10 per annum. The church, formerly
called the kirk in the forest, is a neat plain edifice, built
in 1776> an(l will accommodate 600 persons. The paro-
chial school affords instruction in the usual branches,
and in the classics, practical mathematics, and book-
keeping ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house,
and £18 fees. The ruins of the church of Barnweill
are still standing, and also those of Craigie Castle, a
very ancient building, at one time inhabited by the
Wallaces of Craigie, a collateral branch of the family of
Sir William Wallace, the Scottish patriot. There are
several artificial mounds called " law hills," on which
culprits are supposed to have been formerly tried.
CRAIGIE, a village, in the parish of Dalmeny,
county of Linlithgow, 1\ miles (E. N. E.) from Kirk-
liston ; containing 75 inhabitants. It is in the eastern
part of the parish, and in its vicinity is Craigie Hall,
formerly the residence and estate of the Craigies, an
ancient and considerable family. One of them was a
witness to the original charter granted to the first laird
of Dundas in the year 1120. In 13S7, the heiress of
the family married Sir John Stewart, who took the
name, and his posterity continued here until 1640, when
the estate of Craigie Hall was sold ; it subsequently be-
came the seat of the Hope family. — See Dalmeny.
CRAIGIE, a hamlet, in the parish of Caputh,
county of Perth, 2| miles (N. N. E.) from Caputh ;
containing 67 inhabitants. It lies in the eastern part of
the parish, and adjoins the village of Cluny on the east
side.
CRAIGIE, a village, in the East parish of the city
and county of Perth ; containing 219 inhabitants. It
C R A I
C R A I
is situated on the west side of the river Tay, and a
little south of the city, of which it forms a suburb. It
is a pleasant village, and in its vicinity is the site of the
old castle of Craigie, which belonged to the Ross
family.
CRAIGIELANDS, a hamlet, in the parish of Kirk-
patrick-Juxta, county of Dumfries, 2^ miles (S. by
W.) from Moffat ; containing S4 inhabitants. It is
about a mile north-west by west from Kirkpatrick, and
a short distance south of the Evan water. The hamlet
is small and scattered.
CRAIGMILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Logie,
county of Clackmannan, 2 miles (N. E.) from Stirling;
containing 78 inhabitants. It is situated at the southern
base of the Abbey Craig, in a detached portion of the
county, about a mile south of Logie, and on the north
side of the Forth river, which here is very devious in its
course. The place was chiefly known, before the duty
on spirits was lowered, as a residence of smugglers.
CRAIGNEUK, a village, in the parish of Dalziel,
county of Lanark. Near this village is an excellent
quarry of flagstone, which affords employment to seve-
ral of the inhabitants. The stone, which is of a very
fine grain, and of a reddish colour, varies from one
quarter of an inch to five inches in thickness, and is
much used for pavements, and occasionally substituted
for slate in the roofing of buildings.
CRAIGNISH, a parish, in the district and county of
Argyll, 16 miles (N. N. W.) from Lochgilphead; con-
taining S73 inhabitants. This place, though known in
modern times only by its present appellation, was
anciently called both Craignish and Kilmhorie. The
former name, which is a compound Gaelic term signi-
fying a rocky peninsula, is descriptive of the southern
portion of the parish ; and the latter, meaning a chapel
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was applied in reference
to an ancient structure, the ruins of which yet remain
in the principal burial-ground. The parish is washed
by the Atlantic on the west and south, and is separated
on the east, by Loch Craignish, from the parishes of
Dalavich and Kilmartin. It measures a little more
than eleven miles in length, and about two in average
breadth, comprehending, for a highland district, a con-
siderable portion of land under cultivation. The coast,
on account of its numerous indentations, is supposed to
form a line of sixteen or seventeen miles in extent, and
is exceedingly rocky on the south and west, and also
marked in the latter direction by several small bays
with fine white sandy shores. Loch Craignish is about
three miles wide at a small distance from the entrance ;
in other parts it varies considerably in breadth, and
towards its head, narrows itself to less than a mile, the
depth averaging about twelve fathoms. On each side
of the loch, at the distance of about half a mile from
the land, is a chain of verdant islets, some of them
ornamented with oak, ash, birch, and fir trees ; and at
the northern extremity, the water expands into a spa-
cious harbour, with good anchorage, and secured by the
surrounding hills from the violence of winds. There is
also a very convenient harbour in a creek called Little
Loch Craignish, on the west of the parish, about a mile
from the southern extremity of the peninsula ; it is
much frequented by vessels in stormy weather, or when
waiting for a favourable tide. The most considerable
of the islands just alluded to are those of Mc Niven and
224
Mc Larty ; and near the southern point of the penin-
sula, in a south-westerly direction, are five others, of
which that called Garrarissa, the largest of the whole,
forms the Sound named Dorus-mor.
The surface of the parish in the interior is much
diversified. Lofty hills covered with heath are alter-
nated with tracts of flat laud, ornamented in some parts
by verdant declivities and valleys, interspersed with
lochs, and shrouded with beautiful foliage. The north-
ern extremity of the parish is marked by a chain of
rugged hills, rising about 700 feet above the sea ; they
are mostly covered with a kind of heathy pasture, and
skirted at the base with a belt of level land about a
quarter of a mile broad. The surface along the eastern
boundary of the peninsular portion of the parish is dis-
tinguished by a series of verdant eminences, attaining
in some parts an elevation of 300 feet ; at the base is a
narrow strip of land stretching to the margin of the
loch, and forming a variety of interesting points and
bays on a flat clayey shore. A range of hills, covered
principally with heath, also characterises the peninsula,
stretching from north to south, and commanding from
the chief heights beautiful views of Loch Craignish and
its islets, the mountains of Mull and Morven, the hills
of Knapdale, and the sound and island of Jura. There
are likewise twelve lochs in the parish, besides nume-
rous rivulets ; trout is abundant, and char is found in
one of the lochs. The soil in some places is sterile ;
that under tillage chiefly consists of two distinct kinds,
the one a hazel mould resting on rock, and the other
a darker earth incumbent on clay, and the whole is
interspersed with sandy tracts. The cultivated lands,
though small in extent, are of average fertility, pro-
ducing chiefly crops of oats and potatoes ; live stock is
much attended to, but the dairy produce is incon-
siderable. Husbandry has made comparatively but few
advances ; the lands are mostly under the old system
of cultivation, and many tracts of good quality, for want
of draining, are suffered to lie waste. A superior state
of things is, however, observable in a few farms held on
lease, which are inclosed and well drained. The sheep
are the black-faced, with a few Leicesters and Cheviots,
and the West Highland breed of cattle prevails, mixed
with a small proportion of lowland milch cows. The
prevailing rock in the peninsular district is clay-slate,
assuming frequently a sandy character, and sometimes
running into a hard inferior sandstone. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £3207.
Castle Craignish, situated in the south, is an ancient
structure with modern additions, and contains, in the
lower portion, a vaulted apartment said to have been
formerly used as a dungeon. The house of Barbreck,
in the north-eastern quarter, a commodious mansion,
and that of Dail, on the western coast, are both modern
residences, and, like the castle, have demesnes orna-
mented with clumps of plantations, covering together
about 300 acres, which comprehend nearly the whole
wood in the parish. The population are employed in
agriculture, except those occasionally engaged in fishing.
The parish is in the presbytery of Inverary and synod
of Argyll, and in the patronage of the Duke of Argyll.
The minister's stipend is £169. 10., of which about a
quarter is received from the exchequer, with a manse,
and a glebe of about fifteen acres, valued at £18 per
annum. The church is a neat structure, erected in
C R A I
C R A I
1S26, and conveniently situated on the eastern side of
the parish. The parochial school affords instruction in
English and Gaelic, the latter being the ordinary lan-
guage, and in the usual branches of a plain education,
with Latin if required. The master has a salary of
£25. 13., with a house, and £20 fees. The remains of
numerous Danish forts are still visible in the parish.
The ruins of a religious house, supposed to have been
an oratory, and of another, formerly, it is said, the
parish chapel, may also yet be traced ; and there is a
small bay called the Port of the Athollmen, which re-
ceived its name from the circumstance of several of the
Marquess of Atholl's men having been drowned there,
after a defeat by the natives in the seventeenth century.
CRAIGO, a village, in the parish of Logie-Pert,
count}' of Forfar, 5^ miles (N. N. W.) from Montrose ;
containing 359 inhabitants. It is pleasantly seated on
the south bank of the North Esk river, and in its vicinity
are extensive bleachfields, and several mills for flax-
spinning, cloth- finishing machinery, and an alkali manu-
facture. These works together employ about 150 hands.
Craigo House, built by the Carnegie family, about fifty
years since, is a mile south of the village, and the
grounds around are well planted : on the estate is a
good freestone quarry. The North Esk is crossed in
the neighbourhood of the place by substantial bridges,
of which one, of three arches, was erected by the cele-
brated John Erskine, of Dun, at the time of the Re-
formation.
CRAIGROTHIE, a village, in the parish of Ceres,
district of Cupar, county of Fife, 1 mile (Yv\) from
Ceres ; containing 308 inhabitants. It is situated on
the road from Kennoway to Cupar, and near Struthers,
the old seat of the earls of Crawfurd. It has a bailie
and council, and its rural corporation was greatly
patronised by the last earl. A school has been built by
subscription.
CRAIGTON, a village, in the parish of Monikie,
county of Forfar, ^ a mile (S. W.) from Monikie ;
containing 162 inhabitants. It lies on the road from
Dundee to Brechin ; and its population is chiefly em-
ployed in weaving linen-cloth for the manufacturers in
the surrounding districts. In the village is a small
school.
CRAIGTON-FIELD, a village, in the parish of New
Kilpatrick, county of Dumbarton : containing 69
inhabitants. It is situated in the northern part of the
parish, on the road from Kilpatrick to Drymen, and
about three miles north north-west of the parochial
church.
CRAIL, a royal burgh,
sea-port, and parish, in the
district of St. Andrew's,
county of Fife, 10 miles
(S. E. by E.) from St. An-
drew's, and 40 (N. N. E.)
from Edinburgh ; containing
1737 inhabitants, of whom
1221 are in the burgh. This
place, of which the ancient
Gaelic name, Caryle, is de-
scriptive of its situation in
a corner of the county, is of
remote antiquity, and had a royal castle, whereof the
date is not clearly ascertained, but which was occasion-
Vol. I.— 225
Burgh Seal.
ally the residence of David I. A priory and a collegiate
church were founded here at an early period, and
richly endowed. Of the former, which was suppressed
previously to the Reformation, there remain only some
vestiges of the chapel, dedicated to St Rufus ; and the
latter, in which were eight altars, was at that time
stripped of its rich ornaments, and is now the parish
church. Mary of Guise, afterwards consort of James V.,
landed on this coast after a severe storm, and was hospi-
tably entertained in the ancient mansion of Balcomie
Castle, whence, accompanied by the king, she proceeded
to St. Andrew's.
The town, which is situated at the mouth of the
Frith of Forth, consists principally of two parallel
streets, extending along the shore from east to west, and
intersected nearly at right angles by others of inferior
note. The houses in the main street are spacious, and
of ancient appearance ; and though, from the loss of
the herring-fishery, of which the town was a principal
station, it has been long declining in prosperity, it still
retains many vestiges of its former importance. The
harbour is both inconvenient and unsafe ; but about a
quarter of a mile to the east is Roome Bay, which might
be converted into an excellent haven, capable of afford-
ing secure shelter to 200 sail of vessels, and might be
rendered available to the increase of the trade of the
Forth and of the eastern coasts of England and Scotland.
There are no manufactures carried on, nor any trade of
importance, except what is requisite for the supply of
the neighbourhood.
The government of the town, which was erected
into a royal burgh by charter of Robert Bruce, confirmed
by Mary, Queen of Scots, James VI., and Charles I. and
II., is vested in a chief magistrate, two bailies, a treasurer,
and a council of seventeen, chosen under the regulations
of the Municipal act of William IV. There are seven in-
corporated tradiug companies, the blacksmiths, wrights,
weavers, tailors, shoemakers, coopers, and bakers, the
fees of admission into which vary, for sons of free-
men, from £1. 5. to £3. 19-, and for strangers, from £3
to £6. 2. The magistrates, whose jurisdiction extends
over the whole of the royalty, hold bailie courts for civil
actions and the trial of petty offences, but very few cases
come under their decision. The burgh is associated with
those of St. Andrew's, Anstruther Easter and Wester,
Cupar, Kilrenny, and Pittenweem, in returning a mem-
ber to the imperial parliament ; the number of qualified
voters is about fifty-one. The town-hall, a neat building,
is situated in the principal street.
The parish, which is bounded on the east and south
by the German Ocean, is above six miles in length, ex-
tending to Fifeness, the eastern extremity of the county,
and about three miles in extreme breadth ; but from
its irregularity of form, the precise number of acres
has not been ascertained. The surface, near the shore,
has an elevation of about eighty feet above the sea,
and rises gradually towards the west, without forming
any considerable hills. The soil comprehends every
variety of character, from the deepest black loam to a
thin wet clay, and the chief crops are, wheat, oats, beans,
barley, and potatoes, of all of which great quantities are
sent annually to the south. The system of agriculture
has been much improved ; all the modern implements
of husbandry are in use ; the farms are of moderate
size, and on most of them threshing-mills have been
2 G
CR A I
CRAM
erected. The lands near the town obtain a very high
rent, generally from £6 to £8 per acre, and the pastures
are luxuriantly rich. Coal is found in the parish, and
there are still remaining the mines formerly in opera-
tion ; limestone of good quality is also abundant, and is
obtained for manure. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £10,240. The only plantations are around
the mansions of the principal landed proprietors. The
ancient houses of Newhall and Balcomie have been de-
molished ; of the latter, -which was one of the noblest
mansions in the county, a small portion only remains,
forming, however, a good landmark for mariners. The
principal houses at present are those of Airdrie, a hand-
some mansion embosomed in thriving plantations ;
Kirkmay ; and Wormiston, in the grounds of which, also,
are some trees of stately growth. The ecclesiastical
affairs are under the superintendence of the presbytery
of St. Andrew's and synod of Fife. The minister's
stipend is £280, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£64 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Glasgow. The
church, formerly collegiate for a provost, sacrist, and
prebendaries, still retains some vestiges of its ancient
grandeur. The parochial school, with which the burgh
grammar school has been incorporated, is well conducted ;
the master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden,
and the fees average about £40. When the number of
scholars exceeds ninety, an assistant is appointed, who
receives from the corporation £12 per annum, the salary
formerly paid to the burgh schoolmaster. The remains
of the priory, near the sea-shore, are almost obli-
terated, the eastern gable, which was the chief portion
left, having been destroyed by the sea about forty years
ago.
CRAILING, a parish, in the district of Jedburgh,
county of Roxburgh ; including the village of East and
West Nisbet, and containing 667 inhabitants, of whom
74 are in the village of Crailing, 4 miles (N. N. E.) from
Jedburgh. This place, of which the name is of uncertain
derivation, comprehends the ancient parish of Nisbet, an-
nexed to it by act of the presbytery prior to the year 1713.
The present parish comprises 6000 acres, of which about
300 are woodland and plantations, and the remainder
arable land in good cultivation. The surface is varied, in
some parts rising to a considerable elevation ; the highest
point, called Piniel Heugh, is a hill covered with verdure,
presenting a pleasing object in the landscape, and has
been rendered more conspicuous and interesting by the
erection on its summit of a monument to commemorate
the victory at Waterloo. This monument is a circular
column of whinstone, 150 feet in height, rising from a
massive pedestal, on the face of which is the inscription,
" To the Duke of Wellington and the British Army,
William Ker, Vlth Marquess of Lothian, and his tenan-
try, dedicate this monument, 30th of June, 1815." It
has within the shaft a spiral staircase, leading to the
summit, which commands an extensive and richly-varied
prospect, embracing the windings of the Teviot to the
west, the range of the Cheviot hills to the south, Tweed-
dale to the north, and the whole of the Merse to the sea
on the east. The Teviot flows through the parish, and,
a little below the village, receives the Oxnam water.
The soil is dry and fertile, and extremely favourable
to the growth of all kinds of grain ; and about the year
1800, very profitable crops of tobacco were raised on
some of the lands, by way of experiment. The present
226
crops are, oats, wheat, barley, potatoes, turnips, and peas ;
the system of agriculture is highly improved. The
plantations are well managed, and in a flourishing state ;
and on the road passing through the village, are some
stately rows of beech, ash, and elm. The principal sub-
strata are whinstone and sandstone. The latter is found
near the river, of a light colour, and of excellent quality
for building ; two quarries have been opened, and blocks
of twelve feet in length have been raised. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £7379. Monteviot House,
the seat of the Marquess of Lothian, is situated at the
western extremity of the Nisbet district. The ancient
mansion is small and uninteresting in its architectural
details ; a spacious and elegant modern mansion in the
castellated style was commenced by the late marquess,
but has not yet been completed. Crailing House is a
handsome mansion, on rising ground overlooking the
winding stream of the Oxnam ; the demesne is laid out
with great taste, and embellished with rich plantations.
The village of Crailing was formerly more extensive
than at present ; it has facility of intercourse with Jed-
burgh and Kelso by the great road from Carlisle to
Berwick.
The parish is in the presbytery of Jedburgh and synod
of Merse and Teviotdale. The minister's stipend is
£251. 10., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £32. 10.
per annum ; patrons, the Crown and the Marquess of
Lothian. The church, situated in the Crailing district
of the parish, is a neat plain edifice, adapted for a con-
gregation of 300 persons. Of the ancient church of
Nisbet scarcely any remains exist, but the churchyard is
still used. There is a place of worship for members of
the Free Church. The parochial school at Crailing is
well conducted ; the master has a salary of £30, with
£22 fees, a house and garden, and £3. 15., the interest of
a bequest by one of the lords Cranstoun. A school at
Nisbet, also, is supported by the marquess, who gives
the master a salary of £20, with a house and garden
rent free, in addition to the fees. The old mansion-
house at Monteviot is said to be part of an ancient
hospital dependent on the abbey of Ancrurn. Near the
site of the mansion are traces of the cemetery belonging
to the establishment j a considerable number of tomb-
stones have from time to time been dug up, and the in-
scriptions on some of them were tolerably legible, but
none appear to have been of any importance.
CRAMOND, a parish, chiefly in the county of Edin-
burgh, but. partly in that of Linlithgow ; including
the village of Davidson's-Mains, and containing 1981
inhabitants, of whom 167 are in the village of Cramond,
5 miles (W. N. W.) from Edinburgh. This place derived
its name, originally Caer Amon, from the erection of a
fortress on the river Amon or.Almond at its influx into
the Frith of Forth ; and from the discovery of coins
and other relics of antiquity, it is supposed to have
been a Roman station, and the port through which
that people obtained supplies of grain for their army.
Among the antiquities found here are, the remains of a
bath and several altars, and the military road leading
from the village to the south. About half way between
Queensferry and Ediuburgh is Cramond Brig, where,
according to ancient tradition, one of the Scottish kings
was rescued from a band of robbers by the ancestor of
the Howisons of Braehead and Crawfurdland. That
family is said to hold these lands on condition of at-
CRAM
C R A N
tending at Cramond Bridge with a basin of water and a
towel, for the king to wash his hands, when passing
here ; and this ceremony was performed by Mr. Howison
Crawfurd in 1822, at the banquet given to George IV.
by the corporation of Edinburgh.
The parish is situated on the south shore of the
Frith, and that part of it which is in the county of Lin-
lithgow is separated from the other portion by the river
Almond. The whole is from six to seven miles in length,
and from one mile to two miles in breadth, and, includ-
ing the small islands of Cramond and Inch-Mickery,
comprises about 4900 acres. The surface is beautifully
diversified, containing part of the Corstorphine hill ;
and the surrounding district abounds with interesting
features, and with every variety of picturesque and
romantic scenery. The island of Cramond, which at
low water is accessible on foot, contains about nineteen
acres, affording excellent pasturage for sheep, and has
two or three cottages for the accommodation of sea-
bathers. It rises towards the centre to a considerable
height, and on the east are some precipitous cliffs of
granite ; it anciently belonged to the bishops of Dun-
keld, and subsequently to the Balmerino family. Be-
tween this island and Inch-Colm, nearly in the centre of
the Frith, is the small rocky islet of Inch-Mickery,
covered with mosses and sea-weed.
The soil is fertile, and the lands throughout are in a
high state of cultivation, producing crops of every kind.
There are several seams of coal in the parish, which
have been occasionally wrought ; but the quality is not
such as to encourage the continuance of the mines.
Excellent freestone is found on the lands of the Duke
of Buccleuch, and from quarries here were raised the
materials for the construction of the harbour and pier of
Granton. The rateable annual value of the Edinburgh
portion of the parish is £16,100. Among the nume-
rous seats and noble mansions are, Carolina Park, Gran-
ton, Lauriston, Barnton, Craigcrook, Cramond House,
Muir House, New Saughton, and Royton. The village
of Cramond is in a romantic valley on the east side of
the Almond, and opposite to the pleasure-grounds of
Dalmeny Park on the west bank of that river ; it is
neatly built, and is a favourite resort of the inhabitants
of Edinburgh during the summer months. Near it are
some iron and paper works, established in 1/71, which
are still carried on with spirit, and afford regular em-
ployment to many of the population.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Edinburgh and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is
£271, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per
annum ; patrons, the family of Ramsay. The church
was erected in 1656, since which time it has been fre-
quently enlarged and repaired. There is a place of
worship for members of the Free Church. The paro-
chial school is attended by a considerable number of
children ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house
and garden, and the fees average about £30. Cramond
has given birth to several eminent and remarkable men.
Of these, may be mentioned, John, Lord Balmerino, the
opposer of Charles I. and friend of the Covenanters ;
Sir Thomas Hope, the celebrated lawyer of the Scottish
bar ; Sir George Mackenzie, first earl of Cromarty, an
able writer; Dr. Cleghorn, professor of anatomy in the
university of Dublin, who may be considered as the
227
founder of the school of medicine there ; and John
Law, of Lauriston. This last-named extraordinary cha-
racter raised himself to the dignity of comptroller-gene-
ral of the finances of France, upon the strength of a
scheme for establishing a bank, an East India, and a
Mississippi, company, by the profits of which the national
debt of France was to be paid off. In 1718, his bank
was declared a royal one, and the shares rose to upwards
of twenty-fold the original value, so that, in 1719, they
were worth more than eighty times the amount of all
the current specie in France. But the following year
this great fabric of false credit fell to the ground, almost
overthrew the government, and ruined tens of thousands
of families. — See Granton.
CRANSHAWS, a parish, in the county of Ber-
wick, 9 miles (N. W.) from Dunse; containing 120
inhabitants. The derivation of the name of this place
is doubtful, some supposing it to have been applied in
consequence of the number of cranes or herons by
which the district was originally visited, while others
trace it to the Cranberry bush, which is a native of the
hills and mosses. The barony was possessed in the
fourteenth century by the family of Douglas, and in
1401, Archibald, the fourth earl of Douglas, assigned
the estates to Sir John Swinton, of Swinton, whom he
calls in the deed dilectus consanguineus noster. The
family of Swinton held the property for a considerable
period ; and in June, 1640, an act was passed by the
parliament, confirming to them the baronies of Swinton
and Cranshaws, with the teinds, and the patronage of
the church. In the times of the border warfare, the
district was involved in the general commotions, and
Cranshaws Castle appears to have been a place of refuge
from the sudden incursions of the English, as well as
the old castle of Scarlaw, which was used by the inha-
bitants of another division of the parish. The parish,
which is pastoral, is divided into two distinct portions
by the intervention of the parish of Longformacus.
The part in which the church stands is a pentagon in
form, containing about six square miles, and is bounded
by the Whiteadder river on the north and east. The
other part of the parish is about five miles long, and
two in mean breadth, and is bounded on the north, the
east, and partly on the south, by Longformacus. The
surface consists chiefly of lofty hills, covered to a great
extent with heath, and suited to pasture, although
most of the farms have each a portion of arable land.
The highest ground is Manslaughter-Law, so called, as
tradition reports, from a bloody engagement which took
place near it, in 1402, between the Earl of Dunbar and
Hepburn of Hailes. There are numerous springs in the
parish, of which one is chalybeate, and the river Dye
forms the northern boundary of the southern division,
and shortly after falls into the Whiteadder.
About 350 acres only are under tillage, the produce
consisting of oats, barley, peas, turnips, potatoes, and
sown grasses ; the grain is sent to Haddington and
Dunbar. There are about 4400 sheep kept, which are
all Cheviots, and are sent to Gifford, Dunse, and Edin-
burgh ; the cattle are a mixture of several kinds, but all
of the black breed. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £1132. The principal substrata are greywacke
and greywacke-slate. Boulders of granite, sienite, and
porphyry are washed down from rocks of conglomerate
in the parishes of Stenton and Whittingham ; and in
2 G 2
C R AN
CR AT
Cranshaws Hill is a fine conglomerated rock, with an
intermixture of iron-ore. Near this there occurs sand-
stone of the secondary formation, coloured by grains of
iron, and of good quality for building; and from the
same hill in which this is found, large quantities of
yellow-ochre issue, which are used by the people in
colouring the walls of their houses. The ecclesiastical
affairs are directed by the presbytery of Dunse and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. The minister's stipend
is £158, of which more than three-fourths are received
from the exchequer, and there is a manse, with a glebe
valued at £17 per annum ; patroness, Lady Aberdour.
The parish church, a very plain edifice, was built in
1739, and will contain 120 persons. A parochial school
is supported, in which all the usual branches of education
are taught ; the master's salary is £34, with about £10
fees, and the allowance of house and garden. There is
also a parochial library, consisting of 200 volumes.
The chief relic of antiquity is the Castle of Cranshaws,
which is an oblong of forty feet by twenty-four, with
walls forty-five feet high, and a modern battlement.
Upon a hill on the west side of the parish are two
immense heaps of stones, said to have been collected
to commemorate the death of twin-brothers, of the
name of Edgely, who fell while commanding different
portions of an army which had mutinied : these stones
are called the Twin-law Cairns.
CRANSTON, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh,
1 mile (N. by W.) from Ford ; containing, with the vil-
lages of Chesterhill with Sauchenside, Cowsland, and
Preston, 1128 inhabitants. The name of this place is
said to be derived from an Anglo-Saxon word, signifying
" the crane's district," and applied on account of the
number of cranes that formerly resorted to the place.
In the 12th century, the parish was divided into two
manors called Upper and Nether Cranston, in the latter
of which the church was situated. Early in the reign of
William, Upper Cranston was possessed by Elfric de
Cranestun, who derived his surname from the manor,
and whose descendants retained the property till the
time of Charles II., when William, the third lord Cran-
stoun, sold it to Sir John Fletcher, the king's advocate.
Nether Cranston, which was the larger of the two
manors, was granted by Earl Henry to Hugh Ridel,
from whom it obtained the name of Cranston-Ridel,
which it retained till recent times. The church, with
its tithes and other pertinents, was bestowed by Hugh
Ridel upon the monks of Kelso, for the sake of the
soul of David I. and that of Earl Henry, and with them
it continued till 1317. During this period they enjoyed
the revenues of the rectory, a minister serving the
cure, and receiving the vicarial tithes. The manor and
ch*>pelry of Cousland were annexed to the parish of
Cranston at the Reformation : the chapel was burnt by
Somerset, when he invaded Scotland with a large army
to coerce Queen Mary into a marriage with the young
king of England.
The parish, which is entirely agricultural, is five
miles in length, and three in breadth, and contains 477S
Scotch acres, including the lands of Cakemuir, separated
from the main portion of Cranston by the parish of
Crichton. The surface is varied by continued inequa-
lities ; and the undulations, adorned with fine seats
and flourishing woodlands, and the well cultivated and
verdant fields, render the general aspect interesting
228
and beautiful. The prospects from the more elevated
grounds are commanding ; and the picturesque valley
through which the Tyne river here pursues its course
from south to north, adds greatly to the scenery. The
soil, consisting partly of clay and partly of light earth,
is generally fertile, and the whole of the land is arable,
with the exception of 200 or 300 acres in Cakemuir,
and about 250 acres under wood. All kinds of crops,
of good quality, are raised ; but the staple commodity
is corn, sent to the Dalkeith market, about four miles
distant. The whole of the modern improvements in
husbandry have been introduced, and the farm-build-
ings and inclosures are in good order. There are seve-
ral quarries of freestone and limestone, from which an
abundant supply is obtained, and splint-coal is also
wrought to a very considerable extent. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £6813.
The chief mansions are, Oxenford Castle, the seat
of the Earl of Stair, a magnificent building, situated
on the west bank of the Tyne, and surrounded by
beautiful grounds ; and Preston Hall, the splendid resi-
dence of W. B. Callender, Esq. : Chesterhall House, a
rather old structure, was lately taken down by the
earl. The mansion-house of Cakemuir is likewise a
remarkable building ; the ancient part is of great age,
consisting of a square tower, with boldly projecting
battlements and walls of extraordinary thickness. An
apartment here is called Queen Mary's room, and it
is supposed that the name has arisen from the cir-
cumstance of that princess having occupied it shortly
after her flight from Borthwick, in the vicinity. The
parish is crossed by two good turnpike-roads, upon
which several public conveyances travel daily, and
facility of communication is afforded by some excellent
bridges. That at Cranston Dean is forty-six feet high,
and consists of three arches, each of seventeen feet
span : Lothian Bridge, over the Tyne, is eighty-two feet
high, and consists of five arches, each of fifty feet span,
surmounted by ten segment arches, each of fifty-four
feet span and eight feet rise. On the line of the London
road by Cranston, an embankment has been formed
over the Cotty burn, at the height of fifty-four feet,
by which the distance is diminished 1200 yards.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery
of Dalkeith and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ;
patron, the Earl of Stair. The stipend of the minister
is £260, with an elegant manse, built in 1830, at the
expense of Mr. Callender, and a glebe valued at £29
per annum. The church is a neat edifice of freestone,
built in 1825, at the cost of Sir John Dalrymple,
and will accommodate about 350 persons. There is
a parochial school, where the usual branches of a good
education are taught ; the master's salary is £34, with
£21. 10. fees, and the allowance of house and garden.
A good parish library was instituted in 1830, and
the poor have the interest of £357, left by some chari-
table persons. Many petrifactions are found.
CRATHIE and BRAEMAR, a parish, including the
villages of Auchandryne and Castletown, in the district
of Kincardine O'Neil, county of Aberdeen, 22 miles
(W. by S.) from Kincardine O'Neil; and containing
1712 inhabitants. The word Crathie is supposed to
be of Gaelic origin, and derived from the words crag
and tir or thir, which signify " stony or rocky land," and
are descriptive of the general appearance of the sur-
CRAT
CRAT
face. The ancient parish of Braemar, a name ex-
pressing the highest land of the three districts into
which the county was once distributed, was in early
times called St. Andrew's, and subsequently Bridgend,
in consequence of a bridge having been built over
the Cluney at Castletown by Malcum-Ceann-Mor, who
had a hunting-seat here. It received its present desig-
nation towards the end of the reign of Mary, when
the lands about Castletown became the property of
the Earl of Mar; but at what time it was united to
Crathie is uncertain. The united parish extends about
forty miles in length, and twenty in breadth, and is
situated in the heart of the Grampian range. The
principal part was in ancient times covered with wood,
and was included in the great Caledonian forest : that
portion called the forest of Mar, has always been
highly celebrated for its abundance of very superior
timber, and the number of fine deer which traverse it.
It was the rendezvous of the inhabitants of the country
in the time of the Romans, and afterwards the strong-
hold of the Highland clans. On the lands of Monaltry,
on the north bank of the river Dee, in a narrow
pass, is Carn-na-Cuimhne, " the cairn of remembrance,"
so named on account of the chieftains, in times of
danger, marching with their followers through the
pass, and causing each man to lay down a stone,
by which they might ascertain, on their return, how
many had followed them to battle, and what number
had been lost in the conflict. The castle of Braemar
was built as a seat of the ancient earls of Mar, but
was subsequently used as a garrison to keep in awe
the lawless chieftains, and was let to government for
barracks in 1748, the great military road from Blair-
gowrie to Fort-George and Aberdeen passing through
the district, close by Carn-na-Cuimhne. In the vale
near the castle, the Earl of Mar, in 1715, first erected
the standard of the Pretender, as is more particularly
noticed in the article on Charlestown.
The parish comprises 199,65S acres, of which, in
comparison with the extent of the district, but few are
under cultivation; between 10,000 and 11,000 are
under wood, natural and planted, and the remainder is
arable land, hill pasture, mountains, and moor. The
scenery of the whole is highly diversified, and can
scarcely, for grandeur and sublimity, be equalled by
any in the county. The Braemar district, which is
especially mountainous, and the forests of which are
well stocked with deer and game, is said to be the
highest land above the sea in Scotland, and the furthest
removed in every direction from the coast. The prin-
cipal lochs are those of Callader and Bhrodichan, in
the midst of hills on the estate of Invercauld, the for-
mer of which contains salmon, and the latter red
trout. The Dee, which rises in the mouutain of Bre-
riach, from a fountain 4060 feet above the level of the
sea, flows through the parish in a serpentine course,
augmented by numerous tributaries, and displays se-
veral beautiful cascades, especially one called the Linn
of Dee. It falls into the German Ocean more than
ninety miles from its source, at Aberdeen, where it
forms the harbour of that city. The most lofty moun-
tain is Bennamuickduidh, rising to an elevation of 4390
feet, and which, by a recent survey, has been found
to be twenty feet higher than Ben-Nevis, previously
reputed the highest mountain in Britain. Cairntoul
229
and Bennabuird are respectively 4220 and 3940 feet
above the sea, and, with Bennamuickduidh, are the
principal elevations, all situated on the north-west
boundaries of Braemar : Lochnagar, on the south-
eastern side of the parish, rises 3815 feet. These im-
posing mountains, covered to a great extent with
wood of almost every kind and hue, and exhibiting
in many places their broken and boldly-shelving cliffs,
with the verdant acclivities, grassy plains, and winding
streams ornamenting the lower grounds, form together
a rich assemblage of natural beauties which can
scarcely fail to charm.
The soil in some places is shallow and sandy, and
in others loamy and dry, incumbent on clay or gravel.
Oats and bear are raised, and the green crops comprise
turnips, potatoes, peas, and hay ; live stock is much
attended to, and the black-faced sheep and small
black-cattle are the prevailing breeds, for which the
large quantity of hill pasture attached to each farm
affords a fine range. Agriculture has much advanced
within these few years ; and among other improvements
many stone dykes have been constructed as fences,
and several secure embankments have been raised
against the overflowings of the river Dee. The rocks,
which are covered with a thin mossy soil of dark hue,
are chiefly pure granite, of different colours, and of so
close and firm a texture that, when highly polished, it
resembles marble. Limestone is also abundant, masses
of which protrude in many places ; and in addition to
this, there is a species of very hard flinty stone or
rock, which is supposed to contain a portion of iron-
ore. The rateable annual value of the parish is £6600.
The natural wood consists of Scotch fir, birch, moun-
tain-ash, poplar, and alder ; and the plantations contain
the various firs, but chiefly larch, which latter is of
quick growth, and is much esteemed as a substitute,
in many cases, for hard- wood, to the growth of which
the climate is not suited. Some of the firs in the
forest of Mar are supposed to be between 300 and 400
years of age, and exhibit specimens rarely, if ever, seen
in any other part of Britain. The mansion of Inver-
cauld is situated in the beautiful vale washed by the
Dee, and in the midst of plantations ; there are also
the mansions of Mar Lodge and Corymulzie Cottage in
Braemar, and Abergeldie and Balmoral in Crathie.
Three annual fairs are held at Castletown, two prin-
cipally for cattle, and the other for sheep and cattle ;
and one is also held at Clachnaturn, in Crathie. The
parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil and
synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of the Crown ;
the minister's stipend is £233. 10., with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £8 per annum. The church of
Crathie, which was built on a new site, in 1S06, is an
elegant structure, containing 1400 sittings, all free. An
ordained missionary regularly officiates at Castletown,
and there is a Roman Catholic chapel at the same vil-
lage ; also a place of worship for members of the Free
Church in the parish. The parochial school affords
instruction in the usual branches ; the master has a
salary of £26, with a house and garden, and £8 fees.
There are two schools for boys, and three for girls,
supported by the Society for Promoting Christian
Knowledge ; a school is supported also by the General
Assembly, and two schools are kept in Braemar, during
the winter, by the Roman Catholics. A friendly
CRAW
CRAW
society was established in 1815, and re-modelled in
1830, under the title of the Braemar Highland Society ;
its annual meeting is held in August, when many
gentlemen attend, and its funds are appropriated partly
to the relief of sick and aged members, and to the
purchase of annuities for widows and orphans, and
partly to the encouragement of ancient games. A
savings' bank was instituted in 1816, and has now a
capital of upwards of £2000. The ruins of the castle
built by Malcum-Ceann-Mor are still standing.
CRAWFORD, a parish, in the Upper ward of the
county of Lanark ; including the village of Leadhills,
and containing 16S4 inhabitants, of whom 236 are in
the village of Crawford, 3 miles (S. E.) from Abington.
This place has claims to a considerable degree of an-
tiquity. In 943, or about that time, a church was
founded here, and dedicated to Constantine, King of Scot-
land ; and the lands appear to have been subsequently
divided into two portions, of which the larger was
bestowed on the abbey of Newbattle, and the smaller on
the monastery of Holyrood. It seems to have been
exposed to incessant attacks during the border warfare
and the feuds of rival clans ; and many of the ancient
farm-houses were constructed as well for the purpose of
defence against an assailing foe as for domestic use.
The population was formerly much greater than at pre-
sent, and the lands were divided among a larger number
of tenants, the practice of joining together several small
farms having, for the last century, been very prevalent
in this part of the country. The parish is situated in
the south-east portion of the county ; it is about eighteen
miles in length, and from fourteen to fifteen in breadth,
and comprises 75,500 acres, of which 74,150 are pas-
ture, chiefly sheep-walks, 1200 arable, and 150 woods
and plantations. The surface is mountainous, and
broken into glens and spreading valleys in almost every
direction ; among the highest of the mountains are
those of Lowther, which are chiefly in this parish, and
have an average elevation of about 2500 feet above the
sea. The hills in general rise gradually from their bases,
and afford good pasturage for sheep ; and the valleys
between them, especially such as have been improved
by draining, are fertile. The river Clyde has its source
in the parish, on a hill 1400 feet above the level of the
sea, and flows in a gentle stream till it receives the river
Daer and numerous other tributaries in its course
through the parish. There are springs of excellent
water, affording an abundant supply.
The soil of the arable land is rich on the banks of the
Clyde, and also near the streams which fall into that
river, especially at their influx ; but in the other parts
of the parish it is very various, though great improve-
ments have been made by the use of lime and the intro-
duction of green crops. The chief crops are oats, which
thrive well, and the dairy-farms, though few, are pro-
fitably managed, affording, besides the produce of the
dairy, excellent opportunities of rearing young cattle, of
which, however, not many are raised here. The sheep
are mostly of the Cheviot breed, to which the former
stock of short and black faced sheep has given place,
and which has been very much improved. Wood does
not thrive well, though there are several trees of great
age, which are supposed to be the remains of an ancient
forest ; and a charter in the possession of the Marquess
of Lothian is still extant, in which the inhabitants of
230
the parish of Crawford are invested with liberty to cut
wood in the forest of Glengonar. The substratum of
the soil is partially transition rock, and greywacke in
all its various formations is prevalent. Slate, though
not of very good quality, is found, and a quarry has
been opened on the lands of the Earl of Hopetoun,
which gives employment to a few men throughout the
year. The mining district of the parish is extensive,
comprising an area of three miles in length, and of
nearly equal breadth, and is rich in a great variety of
produce : a populous village has been erected within
this district, which is described under the appellation of
Leadhills. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£12,341. The principal mansion-houses are, the Hall,
belonging to the earl, and Newton House, the seat of
the late Lord Newton, by whom it was erected, in a
substantial and handsome style.
The village of Crawford is of considerable antiquity,
and formerly enjoyed numerous privileges, being go-
verned by a bailie, and having, till lately, a court called
a Birley court ; it is situated on the road to Glasgow,
and the inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture.
A handsome chain-bridge was constructed over the
Clyde at this place, in 1831, at the expense of the
heritors; and an elegant stone bridge was erected over
the same river, at Newton, in 1824, affording a facility
of communication with the neighbouring towns. The
parish is in the presbytery of Lanark and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr. The minister's stipend is £233. 13.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £13. 10. per an-
num ; patron, the Crown. The church, an ancient
structure in good repair, is conveniently situated, and
affords accommodation to about 300 persons. There is
a chapel in connexion with the Established Church at
Leadhills, the minister of which has a stipend of £70,
with a house, provided by the Earl of Hopetoun and the
Mining Company. The parochial school affords a good
education ; the master has a salary of £34, with £16
fees, and a house and garden. There are several mine-
ral springs, two of which, in their properties, resemble
those of Moffat ; and near the boundary of the parish,
at Campshead, is a petrifying spring, in which many
beautiful specimens are found. Among the principal
remains of antiquity is the castle of Crawford, which
was surrounded by a moat, and strongly fortified ; and
there are still preserved memorials of ecclesiastical edi-
fices formerly existing in the parish, of which one is an
ancient cemetery on the banks of a stream called Chapel
Burn. There are also several Roman camps, of which
the most perfect are, one on Boadsbcrry hill, and an-
other on a farm called Whitecamp ; the two Roman
roads by Moffat and Dumfries united in this parish, and
formed one great road towards Lamington. An urn of
baked earth, containing fragments of bones, was dis-
covered some years since on the castle farm. The cele-
brated poet, Allan Ramsay, was born at Leadhills, where
he resided till his removal to Edinburgh ; and James
Taylor, to whom is attributed the first discovery of the
application of steam to the propelling of vessels on the
sea, and who assisted Mr. Miller of Dalswinton in mak-
ing some successful experiments in 1788, was the son
of one of the overseers in the mines at Leadhills.
CRAWFORDJOHN, a parish, in the Upper ward
of the county of Lanark ; including the post-village of
Abington, and containing 993 inhabitants, of whom 137
CRAW
CRAW
are in the village of Crawfordjohn. This place, of which
the name is supposed to have been derived from some
proprietor of lands within the district, appears to have
been originally a chapelry in the parish of Wiston.
It was granted, together with the church of that place,
to the monastery of Glasgow, and subsequently to that
of Kelso, which retained it till about the year 1450,
when it became a separate and independent parish.
The lands coming into the possession of two co-heiresses,
were for a considerable time held in moieties, till, in the
reign of James V., Sir James Hamilton of Fiuart ob-
tained them. After his decease, they descended to the
Hamiltons of this place and Avondale, from whom,
together with the patronage of the church, they were
purchased by James, Marquess of Hamilton, about the
year 16'20. In the reign of Charles II., the village of
Crawfordjohn was, by charter granted to Anne, Duchess
of Hamilton, made a burgh of barony, and the inhabit-
ants were endowed with the privilege of a weekly mar-
ket and several annual fairs, which have long been in
disuse. Few events of historical importance are con-
nected with the place : part of the rebel forces passed
through it on their march to Glasgow, in the year
1745.
The parish is pleasantly situated on the banks of the
river Duneaton, which partly separates it on the north
from the parish of Douglas ; it is bounded on the south
by the river Glengonner. On the east flows the river
Clyde, and on the west are the counties of Dumfries
and Ayr, which unite with that of Lanark on the border
of the parish, at a point where a stone has been erected
called the Three-shire stone. The length of the parish
is nearly twelve miles, and its breadth, which may be
averaged at nine, varies from two to ten miles, com-
prising an irregular area of 26,600 acres, of which 4200
are arable, about. 60 plantations, and the remainder
pasture for sheep. The surface is sometimes flat, and
inclosed by gently sloping hills of various elevation,
forming a spacious glen, through which the river Dun-
eaton winds its course for nearly nine miles, receiving in
its progress the waters of the Snar, Blackburn, and
other streams. The rivers abound with trout, and the
Blackburn is celebrated for a dark-coloured species,
which excel in quality, and are in great request, and
also for eels, of which some are of large growth.
The soil is extremely various ; on the banks of the
river it is a rich black loam, except in those parts which
are subject to inundation, where it becomes mixed with
sand and gravel. The sides of the hills are in some
places a deep red clay, capable, under proper manage-
ment, of producing excellent crops ; and in several parts
is a deep moss, which, after judicious draining, has in
many instances been converted into fertile arable land.
The principal crops are, oats, bear, potatoes, and turnips.
The pastures are very rich ; the meadows afford abun-
dant crops of clover and rye-grass, and the hills yield
good pasturage for sheep, of which the average number
permanently kept in the parish exceeds 10,000. There
are several large dairy-farms producing butter and
cheese, which are of excellent quality, and find a ready
market at Edinburgh and Glasgow ; and a peculiar kind
of cheese compounded of cows' and ewes' milk obtains a
high price, and is in great demand. The average num-
ber of cows exceeds 1000, chiefly of the Ayrshire breed,
to the improvement of which much attention has been
231
paid ; the sheep are of the black-faced kind, except a few
of a mixed breed between the Cheviot and the Leicester.
The plantations, which are chiefly at Glespin, Gilkers-
cleugh, and Abington, are Scotch fir, spruce, beech,
lime, chesnut, and oak. Some advance has been made
in draining and inclosing the lands ; and a society for
encouraging the improvement of live stock has been
established by the farmers of this and the parish of
Crawford, which has been sanctioned by many of the
heritors in both. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £6329.
The substratum of the soil and the bases of the hills
are mostly whinstone and freestone, of which several
quarries are worked ; limestone is also prevalent, and
works have been established at Whitecleugh and "Wild-
shaw. There are indications of coal in several parts of
the parish, though no works have been opened ; lead-
ore has been found at Craighead, and near the source of
the Snar, at which latter place it is wrought. Some
vestiges remain of a work opened at Abington for the
discovery of gold ; and in repairing a road some years
since, several pieces of spar, in which copper was im-
bedded, were found among the rubbish. There is also
a tradition that silver-mines were formerly wrought in
the parish, though probably it might have originated in
finding small portions of that metal in combination with
the lead-ore. A subscription library has been esta-
blished in the village of Crawfordjohn, and there is
likewise one supported at Abington. The parish is
in the presbytery of Lanark and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr. The minister's stipend is £233. 13., with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £16 per annum ; patron, Sir T.
E. Colebrooke. The church, which is conveniently
situated, was enlarged in 1S17, and will accommodate
300 persons. The parochial school is attended by about
seventy scholars ; the master has a salary of £32, with
£26 fees, and a house and garden. There were for-
merly the remains of the castles of Crawfordjohn, Moss-
castle, Glendorch, and Snar, the last of which was cele-
brated for the exploits of its proprietor during the border
warfare. On a hill near Gilkerscleugh are traces of a
circular encampment consisting of two concentric circles,
the innermost of which is about thirty yards in dia-
meter, and has between it and the outer an interval of
ten yards. There are vestiges of a similar intrench-
ment near Abington ; and on the bank of the river
Clyde is a moat, in the centre of which is a mound
about fifty yards in circumference at the base, and
thirty feet in height. In the peat-bogs are frequently
discovered alder-trees and hazel in a prostrate position,
and, at various times, coins of Antoninus, and others of
the reign of Edward I.
CRAWFURD'S - DYKE, Renfrewshire. — See
Cartsdyke.
CRAWICKBRIDGE and CRAWICKMILL, villages,
in the parish of Sanquhar, county of Dumfries, 1 mile
(N.N. W.) from Sanquhar; the one containing 71, and
the other 144 inhabitants. These places are situated on
the beautiful stream of the Crawick, which separates the
parish from Kirkconnel, and, after a south-west course
of about nine miles, falls into the Nith near the manse of
Sanquhar. At Crawickmill is an extensive carpet manu-
factory, in which upwards of a hundred persons are em-
ployed in the various processes of dyeing, spinning, and
weaving the materials.
CREE
C R EI
CRAWTON, a village, in the parish of Dunnottar,
county of Kincardine, 3| miles (S.) from Stonehaven;
containing 77 inhabitants. It is situated in the south-
eastern part of the parish, and chiefly inhabited by per-
sons employed in fishing, and has a small harbour well
adapted for the purpose. The fish taken off this part of
the coast are, haddock, whiting, cod, ling, skate, halibut,
flounders, and a few turbot ; and lobsters of good quality
are also found in abundance.
CREAN-MULL ISLES, two of the Hebrides, in the
parish of Barra, county of Inverness. They are of
very small extent, and are uninhabited : both lie in the
Sound of Pabbay, between the islands of Pabbay and
Saundray, and a litle east of Lingay.
CREEBRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Minni-
gaff, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, § a mile (E.) from
Newton-Stewart ; containing 262 inhabitants. This place
consists of a street of good houses, recently built near
a bridge over the Cree, and about a quarter of a mile
below the village of Minnigaff. The bridge, from which
it takes its name, is a handsome structure of granite, of
five arches. The Cree rises on the border of Ayrshire,
and for several miles of its course is inconsiderable, but
increased by tributary streams, it changes its appearance,
and, pursuing its way through a beautiful valley, empties
itself into the bay of Wigton. It is navigable for some
miles.
CREETOWN, a burgh of barony, and port, in the
parish of Kirkmabreck, stewartry of Kirkcudbright,
6 miles (S. E.) from Newton-Stewart ; containing 984 in-
habitants. This place, which takes its name from its
situation on the river Cree, is of some antiquity, and under
the name of " Creth," was the rendezvous of the English
army in 1300. It appears to have been of considerable
extent, and from a ferry over the river, obtained subse-
quently the name of the Ferry-Town of Cree. It is pro-
bable that the ancient village had fallen into decay before
the erection of the present town, which was commenced
in 1785, and in 1792 contained only fifty houses. The
town is situated at the mouth of the river, on the eastern
shore of Wigton bay, and consists of several streets,
irregularly formed, but containing well-built houses.
The surrounding scenery in every direction is beautifully
picturesque, and enlivened with handsome mansions and
pleasing villas.
A cotton factory, a tannery, and a mill for making
patent-shot, were for some years in active operation, but
have been long discontinued. The manufacture of car-
pets, affording employment to about thirty persons, is
carried on in the buildings of the old cotton-factory,
and the shot-mill has been recently adapted to the pur-
poses of a cast-iron foundry. The trade of the port is
mainly in the shipping of granite for Liverpool, in which
several schooners are employed ; there is a small coast-
ing trade, chiefly with Whitehaven, and foreign vessels
occasionally land cargoes of timber and tar. There is
no harbour, and the vessels are moored upon the beach.
The town was erected into a burgh of barony by charter
granted to its proprietor, John Mc Culloch, Esq., of
Barholm, in 1791, and is governed by a bailie and four
councillors, elected triennially by the tenants. A town-
hall with a small prison has been lately built. There is
a post-office, and every facility of communication is
afforded by good roads, and by the ferry across the Cree
to Wigton.
232
CREICH, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county
of Fife, 5 miles (N. W. by N.) from Cupar; containing,
with the villages of Brunton and Luthrie, 430 inhabitants.
This place is supposed to have derived its name, signify-
ing in the Gaelic language, rocky or rugged ground,
from the general appearance of its surface. It was at an
early period the property of the Bethune family, who
had a baronial castle here, of which there are still some
inconsiderable remains. The parish is about three miles
in length, from north to south, varying from one mile to
nearly two miles in breadth ; and comprises about 2324
acres, of which 1S03 are arable, 204 woodland and plan-
tations, and the remainder pasture and waste. The sur-
face is greatly broken by numerous hills, forming part
of the Ochill range, but of which few within the parish
have an elevation of more than 550 feet above the sea.
The acclivities of some of these hills are cultivated from
the base to the summit ; others are covered with heath,
and partly with thriving plantations. Several small
streams rise in various parts, and unite near the village
of Luthrie, and form the river Motray, which, after
flowing through the parish, falls into the Eden. The
surrounding scenery is beautifully varied, and from the
hills are fine views of the river Tay, the carse of Gowrie,
with the Sidlaw and Grampian mountains, the town of
Dundee, and the distant heights of Ben-Ledi and Ben-
Lawers.
The soil, which has been much improved by draining,
is mostly fertile ; the best system of husbandry has been
long in use, and the lands are generally under excellent
cultivation. The crops are, wheat, barley, oats, peas,
potatoes, and turnips. The cattle are chiefly of the old
Fifeshire breed, with a few of the Teeswater upon one of
the farms, and are usually fattened when three years
old, and sent to the market. The sheep, which are of
various breeds, are bought in when young, in August,
and sold when fat, in the June following. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £3323. The rocks are
mainly of the trap formation, and the substrata princi-
pally amygdaloid, resting on claystone, felspar, and
greenstone ; basaltic clinkstone is found in the northern
extremity of the parish, and extensively quarried for
building purposes, and for the roads. There is also a
quarry of sandstone in operation. The plantations are
chiefly larch, Scotch and spruce firs, interspersed with
various hard-woods ; and on the demesne of Luthrie are
some fine elms, planes, and horse-chesnuts of stately
growth. Luthrie House is a handsome mansion, finely
situated in a well-planted demesne.
A considerable number of the inhabitants are em-
ployed in the hand-loom weaving of Osnaburghs, sheet-
ings, and dowlas, for the manufacturers of Cupar, who
have two agents here. Facility of communication is
afforded by the road from Cupar to Perth. The eccle-
siastical affairs are under the superintendence of the
presbytery of Cupar and synod of Fife. The minister's
stipend is £227. 14., with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£8 per annum ; patrons, the family of Grant. The
church, erected in 1832, is a handsome structure, con-
taining 252 sittings ; it has a marble monument to Mrs.
Baillie, widow of the late Col. Baillie, of Luthrie. The
communion-plate was purchased with the proceeds of a
bequest of Mr. George Davidson, parochial schoolmaster,
who died in 1745. The parochial school is attended by
about seventy children ; the master has a salary of £34,
C RI C
CRIE
with a house and garden, and the fees average about £18.
Some Druidical remains, consisting of portions of con-
centric circles, have been discovered on one of the hills
in the parish ; and on the hill called the Greencraig,
were found the remains of what is supposed to have been
a Danish camp. Two sepulchral urns and two stone
coffins were found to the west of Parbroath, containing
human bones ; and near the remains of the ancient house
was formerly a chapel, not far from the site of which
several graves were discovered, while digging for the
foundation of a wall, a few years since.
CRICHTON, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh ;
including the village of Pathhead, and part of Faladam,
and containing 13S4 inhabitants, of whom IS? are in
the village of Crichton, 2 miles (S.) from Ford. This
place is of considerable antiquity, and was known to the
Romans. Upon the property of Longfaugh are the
remains of a Roman camp, the lines and intrenchments
of which are well defined ; and there is no doubt as to
the ancient occupation of the place by armies, of the
particulars of whose operations in these parts we have
no information. Crichton was anciently remarkable
for its church, which was made collegiate in 1449, by
Sir William Crichton, chancellor of Scotland, with the
consent of James, his son ; and a provost, eight pre-
bendaries, and two singing boys were supported out of
the rents of Crichton and Locherworth. It was a men-
sal church, belonging to the archbishop of St. Andrew's ;
but the bishop had the patronage of the prebends of
Vogrie, Arniston, Middleton, and Locherworth. After
the Reformation, Sir Gideon Murray, the last provost,
obtained a license to convert the church lands of Crichton,
with the tithes formerly belonging to the rectory, into
a temporal estate. He was treasurer-depute to James
VI., and died in 1621, leaving the estate to his son.
Patrick, who, in 1643, was created Lord Elibank : the
lands are now possessed by William Burn Callender,
Esq. The celebrated castle of Crichton, supposed to
have been partly erected in the fourteenth century, was
formerly the residence of the Chancellor Crichton
already mentioned, joint guardian with the Earl of Cal-
lender of James II. during his minority, and the promoter
of the vigorous measures against the powerful Douglas.
While Crichton held the castle, it was besieged and
partly demolished by William, Earl of Douglas, after a
resistance of nine months ; but it was restored with
great splendour, and received additions at various times,
until it, at length, assumed the appearance of one of the
most magnificent structures of this kind in the country.
Though now in ruins, it is a solid massive building, of
extremely venerable and imposing appearance. The
oldest part of the castle is a narrow keep or tower ;
but so many additions were made subsequently to the
erection of this part that there is now a large court-
yard, surrounded by buildings of different ages. The
eastern front of the court is raised above a portico, and
decorated with entablatures bearing anchors. The stones
of this front are cut into diamond facets, of extremely
rich appearance ; and within this portion of the edifice,
there appears to have been a gallery of unusual size
and elegance.
The parish, which is situated in the eastern extre-
mity of the county, is about five miles and a half long,
and four and a half broad, and contains about 3900
Scotch acres. The surface consists of a continued suc-
Vol. I. — 233
cession of undulations and hollows throughout; a con-
siderable part, in the higher grounds, is covered with
wood, and about 450 acres are moorland and outfield.
The river Tyne rises in the upper district of the parish,
and, after running towards the north for twoor threemiles,
makes a bend to the east, passes through the county of
Haddington, and falls into the sea near Dunbar. The
soil in the lower grounds is mostly a deep rich mould,
producing heavy crops ; in some other places it is dry
and sharp, well adapted to the growth of turnips, which
are cultivated to a considerable extent. On the high
lands, it consists of thin moss resting upon a wet sand
or clay, unsuited to husbandry, but congenial to the
growth of trees, some of which thrive very well. About
3300 acres of land are in tillage, and all kinds of grain
of good quality are produced, as well as potatoes,
turnips, and hay. Several hundreds of acres, before
considered intractable, have been brought into profit-
able cultivation within the present century, and im-
provements in this branch of husbandry are still in
progress. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£561 0.
The rocks consist chiefly of limestone of a superior
description, large quantities of which have been, for
many years, sent to Edinburgh for the purposes of
building; much of it is also sent southward, to be em-
ployed as manure. Coal is found in different parts of
the parish, in thin seams, but no pits have been opened.
The great road to the south, leading by Lauder, passes
through Pathhead, where a splendid bridge has recently
been erected over the Tyne, consisting of five arches,
each eighty feet high, by fifty feet span. There is a
post-office, and several coaches run on the turnpike-
road. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the pres-
bytery of Dalkeith and synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale ; patron, Mr. Callender. The minister's stipend is
£264, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per
annum. The church, which is a fine ancient structure
in the form of a cross, was the collegiate church ; it was
thoroughly repaired about twenty-five years ago, and will
accommodate 600 persons. At Pathhead is a place of
worship for seceders. There is also a parochial school,
in which the usual branches of education are taught ;
the master has a salary of £34, with a house, and £26
fees. A good circulating library is supported at Path-
head, and the parish contains two friendly societies.
CRIECH, a parish, in the county of Sutherland,
llj miles (W. N. W.) from Tain; containing, with the
village of Bonar, 25S2 inhabitants. This place is famed
for a contest which happened in the eleventh or twelfth
century, between the Scots and the Danes, at Druimleah,
near Bonar-Bridge, whence the invaders, after being
completely routed, retired to their ships at Portna-
coulter, at present called the Meikle Ferry. It is an ex-
tensive parish, in length about forty miles, and six miles
in average breadth, and contains about 150,000 acres.
The general appearance of the surface is hilly, approxi-
mating in many parts to the character of a mountainous
district, and a small proportion only of its area is under
cultivation, the rest being covered with natural wood
and heath. At Ledmore is a fine oak-wood of about
150 acres; and in several other parts there is a con-
siderable quantity of natural wood, as well as of planta-
tions. A large extent of ground on the estates of Skibo
and Pulrossie was planted with fir and larch about forty
2 H
C R I E
C R I E
years ago, to which about 1500 acres have been added
by the present proprietor, with an intermixture of oak
and other forest trees. Other plantations have been
made within the last few years, and the extent of the
whole of them throughout the parish is now calculated
at 2500 acres. The rivers are, the Shin, the Oykell, a
considerable stream, and the Cassley, the two last of
which join at the southern extremity, and form the
Frith of Dornoch ; they all contain salmon, which are
regularly taken, and sturgeons are also sometimes seen
in the Shin. There are likewise several lakes, the most
considerable of which are Migdol, Gour, and Elst, all
abounding with small good-flavoured trout.
The prevailing soil is the gravelly peaty kind usual
in mountainous districts. At Pulrossie, Flode, Rosehall,
and some other places near the Frith, there is an ad-
mixture of clay, and the hills in the vicinity of Rosehall
form a fine natural pasture, and are covered with sheep.
The largest corn-farm produces about £300 per annum,
and the others, amounting to about six in number, re-
turn severally from £50 to £200 : the only sheep-farms
are at Auchinduich and Inverchasly, and the breed on
each is the Cheviot. Great improvements have been
made within these few years, particularly on the two es-
tates just named, consisting chiefly in the reclaiming of
waste lands, draining, and irrigation. The rateable an-
nual value of the parish is £4811. There are two quarries
of whinstone, but both very hard to work ; and at Rose-
hall is a vein, about five inches wide, of fine-grained,
solid, bluish-grey manganese, perfect and free from iron,
but which, though valuable for its quality, is of too in-
considerable extent to repay the expense of working.
A village and a cotton manufactory were established at
Spinningdale by Mr. Dempster, of Dunnichen, in the
latter part of the last century ; but, the factory being
destroyed by fire in 1809, the village has since fallen to
decay. The neighbouring village of Bonar has, how-
ever, increased in extent and importance, especially since
the erection of the great iron bridge in 1812, and vessels
now trade to it, of from thirty to sixty tons' burthen,
importing meal, coal, and lime, and exporting fir-props,
wool, oak-bark, corn, and salmon. Newton is also a
shipping-place for articles of the same kind. The eccle-
siastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of Dornoch
and synod of Sutherland and Caithness ; patrons, the
Crown and the Duke of Sutherland. The minister's
stipend is £209, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£5 per annum. The church, a plain structure, built in
1790, is in good condition, and accommodates 500 per-
sons with sittings. A place of worship has been erected
in connexion with the Free Church. There is also a
parochial school, for which a new school-house has been
built ; the master has a salary of £30, with some
small fees. The relics of antiquity comprise numerous
tumuli, a vitrified fort on the summit of the Doune or
Hill of Criech, and an obelisk near the church, eight
feet long and four broad, erected, according to tradition,
in memory of a Danish chief who fell near the spot.
There are also various chalybeate springs in the parish.
CRIEFF, a parish, in the county of Perth ; con-
taining 4333 inhabitants, of whom 3584 are in the
town of Crieff, 17 miles (W. by S.) from Perth, and
56 (N. W.) from Edinburgh. This place, of which the
name, of Gaelic origin, is derived from its situation on
the side of a hill, appears, from various old documents,
234
to have been, at a very remote period, the spot where
the ancient thane of the district usually held his court
in the open air, and dispensed justice to the inha-
bitants. It was from an early date regarded as the
chief town of Strathearn, and was the seat of an earl-
dom until the heiress of Malise, the last earl, marrying
the English Earl de Warren, was led into rebellion
against Robert I., in 1320. It continued, however, to
be the capital of that district, and was the seat of the
jurisdiction of the king's steward of Strathearn, which
office became hereditary in the family of Drummond,
with whom it remained till the- abolition of hereditary
jurisdictions in 1748. About halfamileto the east of
the town, is a spot till of late surrounded with a low
wall of earth and stone, now hardly to be traced. Here
the courts were held ; and a little to the west of the
town, is a rising ground where criminals were executed,
and which still retains the appellation of Gallow Hill.
The town was occupied by the army of Montrose
during some of the disturbances of the civil war, but
was at other times the head-quarters of the insurgent
forces. It was burnt by the Highlanders in 1715, and
in the rebellion of 1745 was saved from destruction
only by the interposition of the Duke of Perth. During
all these conflicts the inhabitants maintained a firm
and stedfast loyalty to their legitimate sovereign. On
the 10th of September, 1S42, the town was visited by
Her Majesty, in the course of her tour in Scotland ;
she was rapturously received by the inhabitants of the
place, by whom a triumphal arch had been erected at
the entrance of the town, and through this the Queen
passed to Drummond Castle, in the vicinity.
The town is beautifully situated on the sloping accli-
vity of an eminence near the base of the Grampian hills,
commanding an extensive and richly-varied prospect of
the country towards the south, which is in a state of
high cultivation, and thickly studded with the resi-
dences of the gentry. It consists of one principal or
high street, in the centre of which is St. James's-square,
a handsome range of building, and of several other
well-built streets, one of which leads to a bridge over the
river Earn, affording a communication with the parish
of Muthill. The inhabitants are amply supplied with
excellent water from springs in the immediate vicinity,
from which it is conveyed into a reservoir in the
centre of St. James's-square, where a handsome building
of stone has been erected, which, surrounded with
some lime-trees of great beauty, forms an interesting
and picturesque ornament in the town. Nearly in the
centre of the high street is the ancient cross, of rude
workmanship, consisting of a block of stone raised on
a plinth of hewn stone. It is about six feet three
inches high, about, two feet in breadth, and little more
than six inches in thickness ; the front is embellished
with a cross, carved in relief, and there are traces of a
legend, of which the characters are so greatly obli-
terated by time, as to be altogether illegible. A sub-
scription library has been established, and is well
supported ; the number of volumes at present is above
1000, and it is supposed that the number will soon be
greatly extended. A circulating library is also kept ;
and two reading-rooms are supported by subscrip-
tion. Assemblies are held in the ball-room of the
chief inn, and also in the large rooms of St. Michael's
Lodge, and the Weavers' Hall.
C1UE
CRIE
The principal trade carried on is the weaving of
cotton, for the manufacturers of Glasgow, in which
nearly 500 persons are employed at their own homes,
in producing checks and handkerchiefs. The quantity
of yarn annually sent to this place from Glasgow is
valued at £15,000; the average value of the goods
when manufactured is about £20,000. About 400
looms are engaged regularly at this work, which
forms the staple manufacture of the town. The manu-
facture of woollen-stuffs is also carried on to a mode-
rate extent, in a factory lately erected on the banks
of the river Turret, and affords employment to about
forty persons. The articles are, blankets, plaiding,
shawls, and various coloured stuffs ; and all the pro-
cesses are performed with machinery propelled by
water, of which the river affords an abundant supply.
Several other persons are occupied in the manufacture
of linen-cloth, chiefly for home consumption, and a
considerable number of females in tambour work, and
in working figured-muslins. There are three tanneries,
employing a considerable number of hands, and pro-
ducing a very large quantity of leather ; likewise two
distilleries, which produce about 73,000 gallons of
whisky annually, and pay duties to the excise of more
than £"000. Five malting establishments are also
conducted, yielding in the aggregate nearly 7000 quar-
ters of malt, and paying a duty of £5420 per annum.
An oil-mill has been established, which is in constant
operation ; and there are corn, flour, and barley mills,
all belonging to one proprietor, who disposes of the
produce at the Glasgow and Dundee markets. The
trade is principally with Glasgow, but certain portions
of it are carried on with Edinburgh, Perth, Stirling,
Dundee, and several towns in England. Great facility
of communication with the neighbouring towns is
afforded by good roads which pass through the parish,
and of which the Tay-bridge road, traversing Glenal-
mond, is one of the best in the country. Mail and
stage coaches pass daily through the town. The market
is on Thursday, and is well attended by the farmers,
and abundantly supplied with provisions of all kinds
for the supply of the inhabitants. From its central
situation, the town has been made the seat of numerous
fairs previously held in the neighbouring parishes ;
and nine fairs, for which a commodious situation has
been provided by Lady Willoughby de Eresby, are
now regularly held. They are on the first Thursday
in January, the third in February, the second in
March, the first in April, the first and last in June,
the second in July, the third in August, and the
Thursday preceding the October Falkirk tryst.
The government of the town, which is a burgh of
barony, is vested in three baron-bailies and a com-
mittee, appointed by the three proprietors of the lands
on which the town is built, of whom Lady Willoughby
de Eresby is the chief. The common funds, amounting
to about £100 per annum, are appropriated by the
committee in watching and lighting the streets, and
supplying the inhabitants with water. A court is held
four times in the year by the sheriff of the county
for the recovery of small debts and the determination
of minor offences ; but there is neither a regular magis-
tracy nor police, and the whole management is vested
in the committee of the inhabitants of the town.
The Masons' Hall, or St. Michael's Lodge, was built
235
in 1S16, at an expense of £2000, under the direction
of a committee, for the transaction of the society's
business; it is a handsome edifice, containing a good
assembly-room, and the requisite offices. The Weavers'
Hall, a neat building also containing an assembly-room,
was erected by that company in I7S6. The old Tol-
booth was built in 1665, for the accommodation of the
officers of the stewards' court after the proceedings
ceased to be conducted in the open air. It contained
a prison in the lower part, in which offenders were
temporarily confined ; a court-room where the small-
debt and other courts were held ; and above, a room
for the use of the public library. The building has been
demolished by the County Prison Board, and a larger
edifice is in progress of erection on its site.
The parish is separated into two divisions by the
intervening lands of the parish of Monzie. The High-
land division comprises the larger portion of the
district of Glenalmond, through which the river Almond
has its course, and abounds with every variety of
mountain scenery, in its wildest and most romantic
features. The Lowland division, which may properly
be regarded as the parish, is about four miles in
length, and three in breadth, and comprises 3S00 acres;
it is bounded on the north-west by the river Shaggy,
on the east by the Pow, on the south by the Earn,
and on the west by the Turret. The surface is gene-
rally level, being broken only by the Knock of Crieff
and the hill called Callum's, the former of which has an
elevation of 400 feet above the sea. These eminences,
which are both richly wooded, add greatly to the
diversity and to the beauty of the scenery. The Earn,
which issues from the lake of that name, forms the
boundary of the parish for nearly three miles, and at
Crieff receives the waters of the Turret. It is crossed
by a good stone bridge of four arches, one of which, in
1715, was broken down by the Highlanders to arrest
the pursuit of the royalist forces, and has been replaced
by one that does not harmonize with the others. The
rivers generally abound with trout, and the Earn with
salmon, eels, perch, and pike, which are taken in great
numbers, and are of superior quality.
The soil in the north, west, and south, is light and
sandy, intermixed with gravel ; nearer the town, a rich
loam; and in the east and south-east portions, a stiff
reddish clay. Of the 3S00 acres in the parish, all, with
the exception of about 600 in plantations, are under
cultivation ; the system of agriculture is in a highly
improved state, and draining has been extensively prac-
tised in the most efficient manner. The crops are,
oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips, of which great
quantities are grown, of excellent quality ; wheat is
also raised, but to a very limited extent, the soil not
being so well adapted for it. Considerable quantities
of cattle are reared here, for the supply of the south
country markets, and for home consumption ; about
1500 are annually fed by the various distillers in the
neighbourhood, and particular attention is paid to the
improvement of the breed. The black-cattle are the
Highland or Teeswater, with a cross of the Dunlop.
Few sheep are pastured, except for the use of the
parish. The woods, occupying little more than ten
acres, consist of oak (of which there are three kinds, the
common, the scarlet, and the Turkey), ash, elm, beech,
sycamore, chesnut, plane, walnut, and poplar ; and
2 H 2
CRIE
CRIM
the plantations, to which considerable attention is
paid, are chiefly larch, spruce, Scotch, and silver firs.
There are not many trees remarkable for their growth :
at Inchbrakie, however, is an ancient yew of extraor-
dinary size, in which the Marquess of Montrose is
said to have concealed himself. The substrata of the
hills are mostly mica and clay slate, with quartz, horn-
blende-slate, and some portions of granite. The lower
lands are partly sandstone of a reddish hue, alternated
in some places with trap dikes of limited extent, and
partly greenstone, which is wrought for the roads.
Quarries of freestone are worked in several parts, the
stone possessing great durability, and being susceptible
of a high polish ; but the veins have not yet been
wrought to a sufficient depth to produce the best speci-
mens. The rateable annual value of the parish is £"600.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Auchterarder and synod
of Perth and Stirling j patron, Lady Willoughby de
Eresby. The stipend of the incumbent is £182. 14.,
with a manse, built in 1701, and a glebe valued at £10
per annum. The church, built in 1"S6, and thoroughly
repaired in 1S27, affords accommodation for 966 per-
sons ; and an additional church was erected in 1837,
at an expense of £1533, and until lately had a quoad
sacra parish annexed to it, containing 2177 inhabitants,
and called West Church. There are places of worship
for members of the Free Church, United Secession,
and Relief Church, Original Seceders, and Roman Ca-
tholics. The parochial school affords a useful educa-
tion ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house
and garden. There are numerous friendly societies, of
which the Masons', instituted by the Duke of Perth in
1737, and the Weavers', in 1770, are the chief. On
the taking down of the old parish church, which was
a very ancient building, about forty gold coins of the
reign of Robert I. were found in a niche in one of the
walls ; on the obverse was a head of the king, with
the legend Robertus Rex Scotorum, and on the reverse,
a figure of St. Andrew with his cross. There are
some traces of the Roman road, which is supposed
to have connected the camp at Strageath with that
at Dalginross, passing through the lands at Broich ;
and in forming the present road through Burrel-
street, a Roman pavement was discovered, in tolerable
preservation, and at a considerable depth below the
surface. Near the spot where the stewards of Strath-
earn were accustomed to hold their courts, is a large
upright stone, of which the history is not clearly ascer-
tained. From the well-known fact that many Druidical
remains existed in the neighbourhood, it is, however,
supposed to have been one belonging to a circle, of
which the others may have been removed at various
times, and applied to agricultural uses. This spot was
the scene of a sanguinary conflict, in 1413, between
Graeme, Earl of Strathearn, and Drummond of Con-
craig, steward of that district, in which the former was
slain. It was also chosen by Sir John Cope for his
4 head-quarters, in the rebellion of 1745 ; and there is
still a fine spring called " Cope's well," near which an
old sword was lately found. Some slight remains
exist of the ancient house of Inchbrakie, the strongly-
fortified residence of Patrick Graeme, colonel of the
Posse Comitatus of the county of Perth, and cousin of
the celebrated Marquess of Montrose, in whose cause
236
he took a decisive part. He is said to have defeated
the Duke of Argyll, and to have taken Aberdeen, in
retaliation for which, his house at Inchbrakie was
burnt by Cromwell. Mallet, the poet, and Dow, the
historian of Hindostan, are said to have received their
early education in the school of this parish ; and
Dr. William Wright, a physician and natural philoso-
pher of eminence, and Dr. Thomas Thomson, the distin-
guished professor of chemistry in the university of
Glasgow, were natives of the place. Sir David Baird,
Bart., passed the later years of his life at Ferntower,
in the parish ; and the sword of Tippoo Saib, presented
to the general after the storming of Seringapatam, is
still preserved there. A marble tablet on the wall of the
parish church records his decease, and the deep sym-
pathy which it excited in the minds of the people of
Crieff, by whom his memory is held in veneration.
CRIMOND, a parish, in the district of Deer, county
of Aberdeen, 9 miles (N. N. W.) from Peterhead ; con-
taining 767 inhabitants. This place once contained a
castle belonging to the celebrated Cumyn, Earl of Bu-
chan, which stood on a small hill called Castlehill, and
was suffered to fall into ruins after his fatal defeat at
the battle of Inverury by Robert Bruce. Near this
castle, the remains of which are covered over with sand
blown from the sea-shore, are the walls of a chapel in
good preservation, supposed to have been the private
family chapel ; and in the immediate vicinity formerly
stood the ancient town of Rattray, which, in the six-
teenth century, possessed all the privileges of a royal
burgh, except that of sending members to parliament.
The Earl of Errol was superior of the burgage lands, of
which, though originally extensive, there is now only
one feu remaining. The parish is situated in that
part of the county called Buchan, and on the coast of
the German Ocean, about midway between Peterhead
and Fraserburgh ; it comprises nearly 6000 acres, of
which 4093 are arable, 707 pasture, 100 plantations,
and the remainder moor, moss, bent, and waste. The
coast measures two miles, and consists of flat beach
and sand-hills, except at the famous promontory of
Rattray head, where it runs into a ridge of low rocks,
stretching into the sea, in an easterly direction, to the
distance of between one and two miles. There were
formerly numerous shipwrecks ; but these accidents
have become far less frequent, chiefly in consequence of
a lighthouse having been erected at Kinnaird's head to
the north, and another at Boddom, near Peterhead, on
the south. The surface along the shore rises to the
height of nearly 200 feet, but slopes towards the in-
terior, which is only slightly elevated above the sea.
Afterwards, however, the land rises to the south and
south-west boundaries, uniting with the higher grounds
of Lonmay and St. Fergus.
The loch of Strathbeg, situated partly in Crimond,
but chiefly in Lonmay, parish, covers between 600 and
700 acres ; the water is now fresh, but it formerly com-
municated with the sea, and was entered by vessels of
small burthen till the year 1720, when a strong east
wind blew the sand into the channel, and effectually
choked up the entrance. The banks towards the sea
present nothing but a succession of sand-hillocks covered
with bent, and the other side is lined with bogs and
marshes. The loch, however, has many attractions to
the botanist and the sportsman, from the variety of the
CROC
CROM
productions growing near its banks, or on the margin
of its tributary burns : its numerous wild-fowl, com-
prehending most species usual in the country ; and its
supply of different sorts of fish. The upper part of the
parish contains the loch of Logie, which covers about
twenty acres, and is surrounded by low tracts of moss,
of a dreary and barren appearance. The prevailing soil
is a light loam, incumbent on clay ; that near the shore
is sandy, and other parts contain a great extent of moss.
The land produces good crops of all kinds of grain,
potatoes, turnips, and hay ; the system of farming is
of a superior kind, and considerable improvements have
been effected by draining, although much yet remains
to be done in this respect. On account of the faci-
lities of communication between Aberdeen and Lon-
don, much attention has been recently given to the
rearing and fattening of cattle for the market ; and
among other kinds, a cross between the Teeswater and
Buchan is in general preferred. But few sheep are
kept ; and cows for the dairy, now numbering between
250 and 300, have been less regarded since the increase
in the sale of cattle. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £3424.
The rocks comprise whinstone, which is abundant,
and a darkish blue granite of very good quality ; red
granite is also found, but chiefly in a decomposed state,
and limestone was formerly worked near Bilbo. There
is an ancient seat called Haddo, and an elegant modern
mansion has been built on the estate of Rattray. The
population of the parish is mostly agricultural ; but
some are engaged in fishing, and besides the perch,
trout, eels, and flounders taken in Loch Strathbeg and
its burns, the neighbouring seas afford herrings, macke-
rel, skate, haddock, and other fish, especially the famous
cod known as the Rattray-head cod. The turnpike-road
from Peterhead to Fraserburgh runs through the parish.
Fairs are held in February, September, and October,
for horses, cattle, and sheep ; and home-made shoes,
and cotton-pieces for gowns, were formerly sold. The
parish is in the presbytery of Deer and synod of Aberdeen,
and in the patronage of the Earl of Fife ; the minister's
stipend is between £200 and £300, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £6 per annum. The church is an ele-
gant structure, built in 1S12, and surmounted by a
lofty spire, containing a good clock and bell. The paro-
chial school affords instruction in the usual branches ;
the master has a salary of £35, with a house erected in
1S16, and £17 fees, in addition to which he receives a
portion of the Dick bequest, and the interest of £400
left by the Rev. Mr. Johnston, a former minister of the
parish. There is also a parochial library, containing
about 400 volumes. Arthur Johnstone, a Latin poet of
the sixteenth century, is said to have been born in the
parish ; and Mr. Farquhar, of Fonthill, who amassed an
immense fortune in India, and was generally known by
the name of "rich Farquhar," was also a native.
CRINAMAIL, an isle, in the parish of Barra,
county of Inverness. It is one of the Hebrides, situ-
ated in the roads of Ottervore, and is of very small
extent, and uninhabited.
CROCKETFORD, a village, partly in the parish of
Kirkpatrick-Durham, and partly in that of Urr,
stewartry of Kirkcudbright ; containing, in the Kirk-
patrick-Durham portion 117, and in the Urr portion
122, inhabitants. A road branches off from the village
to New Galloway and the Glenkens. There is a small
school.
CROFTHEAD, a village, in the parish of Neilston,
Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, | of a mile
(W. S. W.) from Neilston ; containing 297 inhabitants.
This place, which is situated a little east of the road
from Irvine to Barrhead, owes its origin to the intro-
duction of the cotton manufacture. In 1792, an ex-
tensive spinning and weaving mill was built, around
which the village has arisen. In addition to the cot-
tages of the work-people employed in the factor y, and
in the printing and bleaching establishments connected
with the cotton trade, there are some neat houses in-
habited by persons occupied in superintending and con-
ducting these extensive works.
CROICH, or Croick, lately a quoad sacra parish,
forming part of the parish of Kincardine, county of
Ross and Cromarty, 9 miles (W.) from Kincardine ;
containing 316 inhabitants. This place, of which the
name signifies a nook or corner, is situated on the Carron
water, and is the head of a remote pastoral district of
the civil parish. It was formed into a parish in 1827,
and placed under the controul of the presbytery of Tain
and synod of Ross : the church was erected in the same
year. The stipend of the minister is £120, with a
manse, and a glebe of the annual value of £10; the
patronage is in the Crown. There is a small school.
CROLIN, an island, in the parish of Applecross,
county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 40 inhabit-
ants. It is situated near the entrance into Loch Carron,
on the western coast, and is the most southerly of a
small group, and about a mile in length and of nearly
equal breadth. There is some good pasturage.
CROMARTY, a burgh of barony, sea-port, and
parish, in the county of Ross and Cromarty, 175
miles (N. by W.) from Edinburgh ; containing 2662 in-
habitants, of whom 1938 are in the burgh. This place,
of which the Gaelic name, Crom Ba, signifying the
crooked bay, is derived from the winding shore of the
Frith of Cromarty, appears to have attained to some
importance at an early period, though few details of its
ancient history are recorded. It is identified in some
degree with the usurper Macbeth, to whom it gave his
earliest title of Thane of Cromarty. It also seems to
have been the scene of various disastrous battles, in
commemoration of which are numerous tumuli in dif-
ferent parts of the parish, raised over the bodies of the
slain. The hill behind the town is distinguished by tradi-
tion as the site of one of the victories gained by William
Wallace over the English, during the disputed succes-
sion to the Scottish throne in the reign of Edward I. of
England ; and the opinion is confirmed by some arti-
ficial hillocks still discernible among the trees which
crown that eminence. The district appears to have
been originally inhabited by the Lowland Scots. Prior
to the reign of Robert II., the town, which carried on a
considerable trade in the exportation of wool and sal-
mon to Flanders and France, was erected into a royal
burgh, and united with that of Inverness.
The inhabitants were constantly subject to the pre-
datory incursions of the Highlanders of the surrounding
district ; and in the reign of James IV., a combination
of the Highland clans assaulted the town, and carried
off nearly the whole of the property, even to the house-
hold furniture, for the restitution of which a decree was
C R O M
CROM
enacted by the lords of the council. Nearly the. whole
of the lands in the old county of Cromarty belonged to
Sir John Urquhart, who was hereditary sheriff ; and on
his petition, the town was disfranchised as a royal burgh,
and erected into a burgh of barony under his own juris-
diction. The prosperity of the place was subject to
great fluctuation prior to the Reformation ; but at that
time it began to revive, and in the reign of Anne it had
regained much of its previous importance, and had five
vessels engaged in the herring-fishery. At the period
of the union it experienced considerable depression, and
in 1730 had so far declined that scarcely a single shop-
keeper was to be. found in the town. In 1765, how-
ever, the lands of Cromarty were purchased by George
Ross, Esq., who, at his own cost, added greatly to the
revival and prosperity of the town by the construction
of a pier, the introduction of an extensive manufacture
of hempen-cloth, the erection of a public brewery, and
the establishment of a lucrative trade in pork for the
English market. Among other beneficent measures,
was the erection and endowment of a Gaelic chapel for
the accommodation of Highland inhabitants.
The town is pleasantly situated in the eastern part
of the parish, upon a low promontory between the
Moray Frith on the east, and the Frith of Cromarty on
the west. It consists of several streets of irregularly-
built houses, which, notwithstanding the antique ap-
pearance of the more ancient, have an air of cheerful
neatness. The herring-fishery, which was formerly
carried on to a great extent, and, within the last twelve
years, produced annually not less than 20,000 barrels
that were shipped from the port, has recently been
almost discontinued. The manufacture of hempen-
cloth introduced by Mr. Ross is, however, still carried
on in an extensive factory, in which about 150 persons
are employed, in addition to nearly half that number
in its collateral branches ; the brewery noticed above is
a ruin. The principal trade of the port is the ex-
portation of pork for the supply of the English market,
of which the average quantity annually shipped is
valued at from £15,000 to £20,000 ; and the importa-
tion of coal from Sunderland, and other produce from
different parts of the coast. The harbour has a com-
modious pier, and is accessible to vessels of 400 tons,
which can come up to the quay; and should the popu-
lation and the trade of the district require it, this might
be made one of the best harbours on the coast.
The entrance into the bay of Cromarty, from the
North Sea, is between two lofty and precipitous pro-
montories called the North and South Souters, of which
the former is in the county of Ross, and the latter in
that of Cromarty. The passage is about a mile and a
half in width, and the bay is about seven miles in length,
five miles in breadth, and from nine to twelve fathoms
in depth, and affords secure shelter to vessels in the
severest gales. Towards the south-west, it contracts
into a frith of about two miles in breadth, across which
is a good ferry to Invergordon, where no accident has
occurred within the memory of man. The market, which
was on Friday, and amply supplied with provisions,
has long been discontinued; and of the several fairs
that were formerly held here only one remains, on the
third Tuesday in November. (O. S.) The govern-
ment of the burgh, since the late act for municipal
reform, has been vested in a provost, two bailies, and
238
seven councillors ; but they have no funds. The burgh
is associated with those of Dingwall, Dornoch, Kirkwall,
Tain, and Wick, in returning a member to the imperial
parliament ; the number of qualified voters is about
fifty. The town-hall, a neat substantial building, was
erected by Mr. Ross, and contains, in the upper story,
a spacious hall surmounted by a dome, and on the
ground-floor a prison. The internal intercourse is im-
peded by the numerous inlets from the sea with which
the parish is indented ; but a road has been formed to
Inverness, which passes through Chanonry, Rosemarkie,
and Avoch, and the regular sailing packets from Lon-
don, Leith, and Inverness touch at the port, and afford
great facilities.
The parish extends from five to seven miles in length,
and from two to three in breadth, comprising about
7100 acres, of which 2047 are arable, 1850 woodland
and plantations, and the remainder meadow, pasture,
and waste. The surface is strikingly diversified. To-
wards the Moray Frith it is precipitous and abrupt,
attaining, at a small distance from the shore, an eleva-
tion of 470 feet above the sea. On the north and west,
it declines gently towards the Frith of Cromarty for
some distance, and then subsides, more abruptly, into a
continuous extent of table-land overhanging the beach.
In the eastern portion of the parish is the hill of Cro-
marty, having an elevation of 300 feet, and richly
crowned with wood ; and about two miles to the east
of the town, is a natural arch in the cliff, affording a
passage to a peninsulated rock rising to the height of
100 feet from the beach. The small burn of Ethie,
which forms the extreme southern boundary of the
parish, flows for nearly two miles through a deep ravine
in a bed of sandstone, of which the banks rise precipi-
tously to an elevation of 250 feet. In its course it forms
numerous cascades of romantic character, and in one
part flowing between banks crowned with flowers and
foliage of every hue, falls from a height of thirty feet
into a dark mossy basin, shaded with plantations of hazel,
birch, and hawthorn, intermixed with ivy and wild
honeysuckle.
The soil of the arable land is of a clayey quality, and
in other parts are large tracts of moor and moss. The
system of agriculture is in an improving state ; the
chief crops are, wheat, which was first raised about
forty years since, and the various other kinds of grain.
The substrata are mostly sandstone of various forma-
tion, and granitic gneiss, of which the rocks are mainly
composed. Cromarty House, a handsome modern man-
sion, beautifully situated in a richly-planted demesne,
and Udale, are the principal residences. The eccle-
siastical affairs are under the superintendence of the
presbytery of Chanonry and synod of Ross. The
minister's stipend is £251. 12., with an allowance in
money in lieu of a manse, and the glebe is valued at
£15 per annum ; patron, the Crown. The church is a
plain structure in very bad repair. The Gaelic chapel
erected in 1783, by Mr. Ross, for the accommodation
of the Highlanders employed in his factory, has an
endowment of £150 per annum from government, for
the support of its minister. To this chapel, containing
580 sittings, of which 300 are free, the Gaelic people
now come indiscriminately from all parts of the parish.
There is also a place of worship for members of the
Free Church. The parochial school is well conducted ;
C It O M
CROM
the master has a salary of £40, with a sum for house
and garden, and the fees average £10. The poor have
bequests producing £~5 per annum. There are some
very slight remains of ancient chapels, of which the
most perfect are those of St. Regulus ; and among the
ruins of the chapels of St. Duthac and St. Bennet, are
two springs of excellent water. Of the distinguished
persons connected with the place, may be named, Sir
Thomas Urquhart, celebrated as the author of Genealogy
and Universal Language, and the late Dr. James Robert-
son, librarian of the university of Edinburgh, and pro-
fessor of the Oriental languages, who were both natives.
The town formerly gave the title of earl to the
Mackenzie family j but George, the third earl, was at-
tainted for his participation in the rebellion of 1745,
and the title became extinct.
CROMARTY, County of.— See Ross and Cro-
marty.
CROMBIE-POINT, a village, in the parish of Torry-
BtiRN, district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 3 miles
(E.) from Torryburn ; containing 54 inhabitants. This
village, which is situated on the north shore of the
Frith of Forth, was formerly a place of considerable
trade. It was, indeed, the principal depot for the
transit of the manufactures of Dunfermline, which
were shipped hence to Borrowstounness, at that time
the chief port on the Frith. The harbour, which is dry
at low water, is inclosed by a pier of stone, now in
great want of repair. A very considerable portion of
the coal found in the neighbourhood, and of agricul-
tural produce, is still shipped from this place ; and the
Newhaven and Stirling steamers still land, and take in,
passengers and goods at the pier.
CROMDALE, a parish, partly in the county of
Elgin, but chiefly in that of Inverness, IS miles (S. W.)
from Rothes ; containing, with the village of Grantown,
3561 inhabitants. It is supposed to have derived its
name from the Gaelic words crom, signifying crooked or
curved, and dail, a plain or meadow, a portion of land
being made semicircular, by the winding of the river
Spey. This district, consisting of the three ancient
parishes of Cromdale, Inverallan, and Advie, has from
an early period been possessed by the Grant family, who
were very powerful in Scotland in the thirteenth century,
and the first of whom mentioned in old records was
Gregory de Grant, sheriff-principal of Inverness, Ross,
Sutherland, and Caithness, in the reign of Alexander
II. Among the many sanguinary conflicts of the neigh-
bourhood, a battle fought on the haughs of Cromdale,
on the 1st May, 1690, is the most celebrated. It took
place between General Buchan, with a large party from
different clans, on the side of the Stuarts, and Sir
Thomas Livingstone, who commanded the royalists; and
the Highlanders, after fighting bravely, were routed
with considerable slaughter. The castle of Lochindorb,
situated in the parish, on an island in a loch of the same
name, afforded a retreat for the lady of the Earl of Athol,
when the latter had been killed in an engagement with
the Earl of March, in 1335, at Kilblair : Sir Alexander
Gordon shortly laid siege to the fort, but was obliged to
withdraw in the following year.
The parish is very irregular in its outline, and is
about twenty-seven miles in length, and ten miles at its
greatest breadth, comprising, according to a survey made
in 1810, 54,744 acres, of which 5306 are arable, 3283
239
underwood, 396 lake, and the remainder hill, moor, and
moss. The lands are separated into two distinct por-
tions by the Spey. Those on the northern side are much
varied by slopes, stretching down to the river, and
covered with thick forests of pine, oak, and larch ;
on the south the most prominent feature is Cromdale
hill, a lofty mountain ridge, about seven miles long,
covered with heath, extending to the east and west, and
separating this parish from that of Kirkmichael. Most
of the high grounds abound with grouse and different
kinds of game, and with brown and white hares ; and
ptarmigan have been shot in some places : the Spey is
well stocked with salmon. The soil is in general favour-
able ; but the vicissitudes of the climate, the site of the
parish being 600 feet above the level of the sea, often
expose promising crops to ruin from cold and frost.
Agriculture is, however, on a very respectable footing,
the rotation of crops, and other approved usages of
modern farming being followed ; and lime is prepared on
almost every allotment of land, however small. The
sheep are mostly the black-faced, with a few Cheviots ;
and the black-cattle, which are very superior, are of the
West Highland breed. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £5S49. Primitive limestone of excellent quality
is abundant, and is extensively wrought by nearly all the
tenants, not only for manure, but for the purposes of
building ; granite of a superior kind is also found, with
many rocks of the primitive formation.
The parish is famous for its large and flourishing
plantations, which are said to exceed those of any other
parish in this part of the country. About 5000 acres are
covered with larch, fir, and various other trees, half of
which have been planted within the last thirty years ;
and many trees among the older plantations are of great
bulk and value, especially in the vicinity of Castle-Grant,
whence some have been taken to Garmouth for ship-
masts. The natural wood, also, comprises a consider-
able extent of oak, birch, and alder ; and in the church-
yard is a very old and magnificent beech, the branches
of which are capable of overshadowing more than 1000
persons. The mansion of Castle-Grant is situated on an
eminence on the northern side of the Spey, about two
miles from the river, and is encompassed with forests of
ancient and noble trees. This splendid edifice, the seat
of the Grant family from remote ages, but now the pro-
perty of the Earl of Seafield, the sole proprietor of the
parish, was built in the fourteenth century, but has since
been frequently altered and improved, especially within
the last few years. It consists of a quadrangular pile of
several stories, with lower wings ; and the apartments,
which are spacious, and handsomely furnished, contain
many valuable paintings by the ancient masters, and one
by Hamilton, of very superior merit, representing the
Death of Patroclus. In the front hall are between
thirty and forty portraits of different members of the
Grant family ; and there is also an extensive armoury.
The parish is in the presbytery of Abernethy and synod
of Moray, and in the patronage of the Earl of Seafield ;
the minister's stipend is £249, with a manse, and two
glebes, the one at Cromdale, and the other at Advie,
valued at £22 per annum. The church, situated on the
southern bank of the Spey, was built in 1809, and will
accommodate 900 persons. There are four parochial
schools affording the usual instruction ; the masters
receive each £12. 16. per annum, with fees, and the
C R O S
C RO S
master of the school at Advie also shares the Dick
bequest. The chief relics of antiquity are, the ruin of
the castle of Lochindorb, already mentioned, and that
of Muckerach Castle, built by Patrick Grant, about
159S. Sir James M'Grigor, Bart., the head 'of the
medical department of the army, was born here in 1771.
— See Grantown.
CROMWELL-PARK, a village, in the parish of
Redgorton, county of Perth ; containing 124 inha-
bitants. It is situated on the Almond river, and is the
seat of extensive cotton-works and a bleachfield, which
employ the greater part of the population. The Almond
turns several spinning-mills near this place, and has
some fine waterfalls at short distances from the village.
CRONAY, an isle, in the parish of Assynt, county
of Sutherland. This is a small flat islet, with a
shallow shore, lying in Oldernay bay, on the western
coast of the county, and a short distance westward of
Oldernay island.
CROOK, a hamlet, in the parish of Alves, county
of Elgin ; containing 73 inhabitants.
CROOK OF DEVON, a village, in the parish of
Fossoway and Tulliebole, county of Kinross, 5 miles
(W. N. W.) from Kinross; containing 61 inhabitants.
It is situated in the western part of the parish, and at
an angle of the Crook water, which here turns suddenly.
The vicinity is very romantic : the Devil's mill is about
a mile and a half, the Rumbling Brig two miles, and the
Cauldron Linn three miles, below the village.
CROSS and BURNESS, a parish, in the island of
Sanda, county of Orkney ; containing 9S3 inhabitants,
of whom 515 are in Cross, and 468 in Burness. These
two ancient parishes, now united, include about one-
half of the island in which they are situated, the former
occupying the south-west, and the latter the north-west,
portion, together about nine and a half miles in length,
and from half a mile to three miles in breadth. They
are bounded on the north by the Frith of North Ronald-
shay, which is about seven miles broad, and on the west
by the Atlantic Ocean. Cross comprises about 4600
acres, of which one-fourth is moorland, and nearly an
equal quantity sandy downs. Its surface is diversified
with hills, rising in some parts to an elevation of more
than 300 feet above the sea. One of these, called the
Brae of Fea, terminates on the west in an abrupt preci-
pice, washed by the sea, and fretted by the action of the
waves into numerous fantastic caverns ; it slopes gra-
dually on the east to the margin of Ben-Loch, the de-
clivity being richly covered with pasture, and enlivened
with a pleasing variety of field flowers. The district of
Burness, anciently St. Colmes, comprises about 2500
acres, of which a considerable portion is under profitable
cultivation. Its surface is nearly an uninterrupted
level, and, being almost surrounded by the sea, is abun-
dantly supplied with weed for manure, and also for the
manufacture of kelp. The lands of the district are gene-
rally fertile, and in good cultivation, and the scenery is
enlivened with fields of luxuriant pasture, except near
the junction with the district of Cross, where there is
an extensive tract of barren moor. It is bounded on
the west by the Atlantic, from the violent surges of
which it is sheltered by the Holms of Ire ; and on the
east by the bay of Otterswick, formerly Odinswick, by
which it is separated from the parish of Lady-Kirk.
There are several lakes of considerable extent and
240
depth, and one fresh-water lake, which, together with
those in the district of Cross, are frequented by a great
variety of aquatic fowl.
The substrata of the parish, in common with those of
the whole island, are principally of the old red sand-
stone formation, with sandstone flag and a little lime-
stone. In Burness is an isolated mass of gneiss, about
fourteen tons in weight, resting upon the surface, and
to which there is no rock of similar formation nearer
than Stromness, about thirty miles distant. On the west
shore of Cross is a singular rock of breccia, consisting of
rounded nodules of sandstone, with a few specimens of
quartz and calcareous nodules intermixed. The bays of
Stove and Otterswick abound with shell-fish of various
kinds, particularly cockles and the razor-fish; and the
large accumulation of shells reduced to powder, and
heaped on the beach by the action of the waves, has
tended much, by intermixing with the soil, to improve
its fertility. The system of agriculture is inferior to
that of many of the other islands of Orkney, from the
neglect it suffered during the almost general attention of
the inhabitants to the more profitable pursuit of manu-
facturing kelp, vast quantities of sea-weed being thrown
upon the shores. It has, however, been considerably
improved under the auspices of Mr. Laing, of Papdale,
and Mr. Traill, of Westove. The soil is well adapted
for turnips, of which large quantities are raised ; and
the abundant use of weed as manure has greatly bene-
fitted the lands, which now produce excellent oats and
bear, potatoes, grass, and various "green crops. . The
cattle are of the common breed, to the improvement of
which much attention is paid. The native breeds of
sheep are similar to those of Shetland and the Hebrides ;
some merinos, introduced by Mr. Laing, have been
crossed with those of the Cheviot breed, and subse-
quently with those of the Orkneys.
The manufacture of kelp was formerly very extensive,
about 480 tons being produced annually, of a very supe-
'rior quality, and readily obtaining a market at £9 per
ton; but this source of profit has been almost annihi-
lated. As a substitute, considerable attention has been
paid to the improvement of the fisheries off the coast,
which are now conducted with activity and success.
The lobster-fishery affords employment to fourteen
boats, and fifteen sloops and boats are engaged in the
herring and cod fisheries ; the average quantity of cod
cured and dried here may be stated at fourteen tons
annually. Otters are frequently seen in the caverns of
the rocks on the western coast, and large shoals of what
are called bottle-nosed whales are occasionally embayed
here. These fish, which vary from five to twenty-five
feet in length, and in numbers from fifty to five hundred,
are on their appearance surrounded by the boats, and
driven into the shallow water on the sandy shore, where
they are easily taken. The ecclesiastical affairs are
under the superintendence of the presbytery of the North
Isles and synod of Orkney. The minister's stipend, in-
cluding an allowance for communion elements, is £210,
with a manse situated in Gross, and a glebe in each of
the districts, together valued at £19 per annum; pa-
tron, the Earl of Zetland. The churches are both old
and inconvenient structures; that of Cross contains
248, and the church of Burness 262, sittings. Divine
service is performed at each on alternate Sundays.
There is a place of worship for members of the Free
CROS
C RO S
Church. The parochial school is well attended ; the
master has a salary of £46. 14., with a house and gar-
den, and the fees average £10. Several of those ancient
buildings called Picts' houses are scattered along the
shores ; and in Cross was formerly a small but hand-
some structure of stone, erected by James Fea, of Clais-
tron, about the beginning of the last century, as a
family chapel and burying-place. This was taken down
when the property was in the possession of Malcolm
Laing, the celebrated historian of Scotland.
CROSS, or Ness, lately a quoad sacra parish, with
the island of Rona- Lewis, in the parish of Barvas,
county of Ross and Cromarty, 27 miles (N. W.) from
Stornoway; containing 1S10 inhabitants. The district
is about ten miles in length, and seven in breadth, and
surrounded on all sides by the Atlantic, except on the
south, where it is bounded by Barvas and Stornoway.
It forms the most northerly part of the island of Lewis ;
its shores are bold and wild. In many parts it is hilly,
abounds in lakes, and its large moors are deep and
wet : the population is employed a good deal in cod and
ling fishing. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
presbytery of Lewis and synod of Glenelg : the church,
situated about two miles from the Butt of Lewis, was
erected, in 1S29, by the Parliamentary Commissioners,
and is a good and substantial, but plain edifice. The
stipend of the minister is £lc20, with a manse, and a
glebe of the annual value of £3 ; patron, the Crown.
There is a school under the General Assembly's Education
Committee, and two Gaelic schools are supported ; in
the latter Gaelic alone is taught, and in the other com-
bined with the ordinary branches of instruction. Here
are ruins of a place of worship, supposed- to have been a
chapel before the Reformation.
CROSS, an isle, in the parish of Dunrossness,
county of Shetland. It lies a short distance west of
the mainland of the parish, at the entrance of Quendal
bay, and is one of the smallest of the Shetland isles.
CROSS-ARTHURLEE, Renfrew.— See Arthur--'
lee, Cross.
CROSSFORD, a village, in the. parish and district
of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 2 miles (S. W. by W.)
from Dunfermline ; containing 443 inhabitants. This
village, which is situated on the road from Kincardine
to Alloa, is built on the lands of Pitferraoe, the property
of Sir Charles Halket, Bart. It is small, and chiefly
inhabited by persons employed in agriculture, and in
the several works in the neighbourhood.
CROSSFORD, a village, in the parish of Lesma-
iiago, Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 5 miles
(N. W. by W.) from Lanark ; containing 431 inhabitants.
It is in the northern part of the parish, and on the high
road from Lanark to Hamilton. The river Clyde, which
bounds the parish on the east, passes close to the vil-
lage.
CROSSGATES, a hamlet, in the parish of Cults,
district of Cupar, county of Fife ; containing 20 inha-
bitants.
CROSSGATES, a village, chiefly in the parish of
Dunfermline, but partly in that of Dalgety, district
of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 3 miles (E. by S.) from
Dunfermline ; containing 646 inhabitants. This village
is situated at the junction of the parishes of Dunferm-
line, Inverkeithing, and Dalgety, and takes its name
from the intersection of the roads from Edinburgh to
Vol. I.— 241
Perth and from Dunfermline to Kirkcaldy, which cross
each other here. It is well built, containing several
neat houses, and a good inn, where an agricultural asso-
ciation of the neighbouring gentry hold their meetings
for the annual distribution of prizes. A post-office has
been established under that of Inverkeithing ; and fairs
are held on the last Tuesday in April, the fourth Wed-
nesday in May, the third Tuesday in July, the second
Thursday in September, and the Friday before Hallow-
tide. There is a place of worship for members of the
United Associate Synod.
CROSSHILL, a village, in the parish of Kirk-
michael, district of Carrick, county of Ayr, 2f miles
(S. E.) from Maybole ; containing 1163 inhabitants.
This village, which is pleasantly situated on the river
Girvan, has arisen within the last fifty years, and is
partly built on lands let for that purpose by the proprie-
tor of the barony of Dalhoan. The inhabitants, of whom
a large majority are settlers from Ireland, are chiefly
employed in the cotton manufacture established by the
wholesale houses of Glasgow, who have agents residing
on the spot. A considerable number of the female
population, both here and throughout the parish, are
employed in working and flowering muslins for the
Glasgow and Paisley manufacturers, and their work is
much admired for its elegance. A chapel of ease has
been erected ; it is a neat and substantial edifice, adapted
for a congregation of more than 450, and is so arranged
as to admit of future enlargement by the addition of
galleries when requisite. A spacious schoolroom was
erected in the village by a former proprietor, for the
instruction of the children of this part of the parish,
and in addition to the use of the schoolroom, the
master till recently received £3. 10. from the heritors.
This school has lately been taken into connexion with
the schools of the General Assembly.
CROSSHILL, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Old Monkland, Middle ward of the county
of Lanark, 4| miles (E. by S.) from Glasgow ; contain-
ing, with the villages of Baillieston, Barachnie, Craigend,
West Merrystone, and Swinton, 2591 inhabitants. This
district is, for the most part, beautifully situated, the
land rising considerably above the vale of the Clyde, and
commanding, on the south, an interesting view of all
the hills and heights from the western shore to the
ridge of Tinto on the east, and on the north from Ben-
Lomond all along the Campsie and Kilsyth hills. It is
about eighteen square miles in extent, the whole under
cultivation, with the exception of a few acres of planta-
tion. The soil is chiefly sandy, but towards the north
of a stiff clayey nature, and the farms have been latterly
very much improved by tile-draining : the average rent
is now about £2. 5. per acre. The freestone and coal
formations prevail, and there are seven coal-mines, of
which six are at present in operation. The road between
Glasgow and Edinburgh, and the Monkland canal, pass
through the parish, the latter affording great facilities
for the conveyance of coal to Glasgow, and of manure
and other heavy articles to the farmers along the whole
of its line, on which are also boats for passengers.
Among the chief mansions are Mount Vernon, Blair-
tummock, Easterhouse, Baillieston House, and Garrow-
hill, the last the residence for some time of a former
Duchess of Atholl. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the presbytery of Hamilton and synod of Glasgow and
2 I
C RO S
C R O S
Ayr: the church was erected in 1833, by subscriptions
from the neighbouring heritors, aided by £50 from the
university of Glasgow, and is a neat plain edifice, with a
belfry, and contains 494 sittings, of which twenty-six
are free. The stipend of the minister is £70, raised by
seat-rents ; patrons, the Subscribers and Pew-holders.
The United Secession had a place of worship here for
several years, but it has been converted into dwelling-
houses. There are schools connected with some of the
coal-works ; and of two other schools, one is aided
by the heritors of Old Monkland and the congregation
of Crosshill, and the master of the other has a free
house, school-house, and garden.
CROSSHILL, a village, in the parish of Cathcart,
Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 2 miles (S.)
from Glasgow ; containing 63 inhabitants. It lies in
the northern part of the parish, and on the eastern con-
fines of the county : the road from Glasgow to Cathcart
runs a short distance westward of the village. There
is a valuable quarry of freestone, which is extensively
wrought for the erection of buildings in Glasgow.
CROSSHOUSE, a village, in the parish of Kil-
maues, district of Cunninghame, county of Ayr, 2|
miles (W. by N.) from Kilmarnock ; containing 255 in-
habitants. This place is situated on the western side
of the Carmel water, and on the roads between Irvine
and Kilmarnock, and Dundonald and Kilmaurs, which
here form a junction. In the village is a small school,
of which the master is allowed £6 per annum and a
dwelling by the heritors.
CROSSLEE, a village, in the parish of Houston,
Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, \ a mile (S. by
E.) from Houston; containing 711 inhabitants. This
village is in the southernmost extremity of the parish,
and on the banks of the Gryfe water, which is here very
devious in its course. It is a seat of the cotton manu-
facture, and there is an extensive mill, which employs a
great part of the population. Iu the vicinity is Cross-
lee House. A school has been established for the use
of the work-people and their children.
CROSSMICHAEL, a parish, in the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright ; containing, with the village of Clare-
brand, 1321 inhabitants, of whom 222 are in the village
of Crossmichael, 3| miles (N.) from Castle-Douglas.
This place, which is of remote antiquity, derives its
name, in old documents Corse- Michael, from the dedica-
tion of its church, which was granted to the abbey
of Sweetheart, in the year 1275, by Dervorgille, wife
of Allan, Lord of Galloway, and mother of John
Baliol, King of Scotland. The parish is situated nearly
in the centre of the stewartry, and is bounded on the
east by the river Urr, and on the west by the Dee.
It is about four miles and a half in length, and nearly
three and a half in breadth, comprising 9700 acres,
which, with the exception of a few acres of woodland
and plantations, and a small proportion of pasture, are
all arable.
The surface is beautifully diversified. The lands
along the banks of the Dee form part of an extensive
valley in rich cultivation ; but, both from the Dee
on the west, and the Urr on the east, the ground rises
gradually, towards the centre, into a ridge of which the
acclivities are marked with gentle undulations, all
arable. Towards the north-east, are several hills af-
fording only pasture for sheep and cattle, and of which
242
some have been planted with larch, adding greatly
to the beauty of the scenery. There are three lakes
in the parish, of which Loch Roan, situated in the
highest district, is about fifty acres in extent, and of
very considerable depth ; there are two outlets from it.
Loch Encrogo, in which are two small islands, where
sea-gulls formerly built their nests, is smaller than
Loch Roan ; and if the water were not necessary for
driving a corn-mill, it might easily be drained. Loch
Smaddy is still smaller in extent. All these lakes
abound with trout, perch, pike, and eels.
The soil is partly a fertile loam alternated with
gravel and sand, producing favourable crops of grain
of all kinds, with potatoes and turnips ; and the pas-
tures are luxuriantly rich. The system of agriculture
is improved, and some of the lands have been drained,
though much still remains to be done in that respect.
The cattle are generally of the Galloway breed ; the
cows upon the dairy-farms are the Ayrshire : large
numbers of sheep are fed. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £8827- The plantations, which are
well managed, and in a thriving condition, are chiefly
larch. The substrata are mostly greywacke and slate.
The seats are, Greenlaw, Mollance, Danevale, Hillowton,
CullgrufT, and Ernespie. The village of Crossmichael
has a branch post-office under that of Castle-Douglas ;
and facility of communication is afforded by good roads,
of which those from Kirkcudbright to Ayr, and from
Dumfries to Portpatrick, pass through the parish.
There is a bridge over the Dee at Glenlochar ; also a
ferry, nearly opposite the manse.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright and synod
of Galloway. The minister's stipend is £269. 15., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £2S per annum ; patron,
Mrs. Gauld. The church, situated in the western por-
tion of the parish, is a plain structure erected in 1751 ;
it has been frequently repaired, and contains 650
sittings. There is a place of worship for members of
the Relief Synod. Two parochial schools are sup-
ported ; the master of one has a salary of £31, with a
house and garden, and the fees average £30. The
other school was built, and endowed with £11 per an-
num, by William Gordon, Esq., in addition to which
the master has a salary of £20, with a house and
garden, but no fees. There is also a parochial library.
The parish formerly contained numerous tumuli, in
which were found human bones of large size ; and there
are still several remains of ancient forts. Roman urns
and weapons have been discovered by the plough ;
also, the head of a war-horse in bronze, and other
Roman relics. On a steep crag overhanging Loch Roan,
are some remains of a hill fortress still called the Kirk
of Loch Roan.
CROSSMILL, a village, in the Abbey parish of the
town of Paisley, Upper ward of the county of Ren-
frew ; forming part of the late quoad sacra parish of
Levern, and containing 265 inhabitants.
CROSSMYLOOF, a village, in the parish of Cath-
cart, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 2^ miles
(S. S. W.) from Glasgow ; containing 5S7 inhabitants.
It is situated on the road from Glasgow to Pollock-
shaws, and a short distance north-eastward of the latter
town; the Whitecart water passes in the vicinity, on
the south. There is a small dissenters' school.
CROY
C RUD
CROVIE, a village, in the parish of Gamrie, county
of Banff, 6 miles (W. by N.) from Aberdour ; con-
taining 164 inhabitants. This is a small fishing-station,
situated on the coast of the Moray Frith, about a
mile to the east of the village of Gardenstown, and is
supposed to have been founded in the early part of
the last century. Nine boats belonging to it are en-
gaged in fishing for haddock, whiting, and other small
fish, which produce as much as £1215 per annum ; and
a revenue of nearly £400 per annum is obtained from
cod and ling.
CROY and DALCROSS, a parish, partly in the county
of Nairn, but chiefly in that of Inverness, 7 miles
(S. W.) from Nairn ; containing 16S4 inhabitants. The
etymology of the name of Croy is altogether uncertain :
the word Dalcross is derived from a Gaelic term signi-
fying " the dale at the end of the ravine," and this
description is strikingly applicable to the locality. The
date of the union of the two ancient parishes cannot
now be ascertained ; but upon the authority of char-
ters still extant, the event appears to have taken place
some time between the middle and the close of the 15th
century. In the year 1128, Dalcross, which anciently
formed part of the lordship of Lovat, was annexed to
the priory of Urquhart, founded in 1125 by David I.,
and the vicar of Dalcross, by order of the prior, also
officiated in the private chapel of Kilravock. A large
part of the moor of Culloden is situated in the parish :
here was fought, on the lfith April, 1746, the celebrated
battle which decided the fate of the Stuarts. The
parish, the outline of which is of the most irregular de-
scription, is about twenty-one miles in length, and three
and a half miles in average breadth, and comprises 44,800
acres. The surface partly consists of a long continuous
vale, watered by the river Nairn, and the lands of
which are in some places wooded, and in others rich
and well cultivated ; and an extensive tract of upland
moor reaches from the river to the north and north-
western boundaries, and is here and there interspersed
with cultivated portions, but is in general bleak and
barren, and of wild appearance.
The soil on the southern bank of the river is light
and gravelly, but, if well farmed, fertile ; in the eastern
part of the parish, it comprises all the varieties of sand,
lime, fine vegetable mould, and cold and wet, and
sometimes ferruginous, earth. In the centre of the
district, it is a very fine mould ; and between this and
the western portion called Leys, is the moor, covering
about 1700 acres, the soil of which exhibits sand, lime,
and clay, with various admixtures. The Leys district
is chiefly a siliceous or gravelly earth incumbent on red
sandstone. The general husbandry is improved, but
the old system is still partly followed, to the exclusion
of many modern improvements. Some of the larger
proprietors have set an example to the tenants, in
the erection of inclosures, and the reclaiming of large
tracts of waste ground, which have been sheltered with
belts of plantations, and are so well cultivated as to
produce fine crops of wheat, oats, and barley. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £3917. The
rocks comprise granite, gneiss, and the old red sand-
stone : several quarries of the last are in operation.
Some of the trees of the plantations are of great age
and stature, and 400 acres have been lately set apart
for larch, oak, and other wood, in addition to the ex-
243
tensive plantations already existing. The castle of Kil-
ravock, situated upon a bold rugged rock, and the
residence of the Roses since the year 1460, is the pro-
perty of Hugh Rose, Esq., the chief, and the twenty-
fourth in lineal descent. Dalcross Castle, built by
Lord Lovat in 1621, stands in the midst of imposing
scenery, and commands extensive views of the most
interesting character : Leys Castle, recently built, is a
strikingly beautiful edifice, and also commands views
embracing every description of picturesque scenery.
The mansion of Holm is an elegant modern structure,
situated on the banks of the Nairn ; and that of Can-
tray, also a modern edifice, is nearly encompassed on
the south by the same river. A market is held for the
sale of cattle and sheep, on the Saturday immediately
following the great Beauly market. The parish is in
the presbytery of Nairn and synod of Moray, and in the
patronage of Earl Cawdor and Mr. Rose, who present
alternately ; the minister's stipend is £239, with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £11 per annum. The
remains of Dalcross church have almost disappeared :
the present parish church, containing sittings for 52™
persons, was built in 1767, and repaired in 1829.
The parochial school affords instruction in the usual
branches ; the master has the maximum salary, with a
house, and about £20 fees. The parish contains several
Druidical circles ; and to the west of the church is
a large grey stone called Clach na Seanaish, or the
listening stone, at which, in ancient times, secret com-
munications were made relating to the movements and
designs of hostile clans.
CRUDEN, or Invercruden, a parish, in the dis-
trict of Ellon, county of Aberdeen, 7 miles (S. S. W.)
from Peterhead ; containing, with the villages of Finny-
fold or Whinnie Fauld, Bullers-Buchan, and the Ward,
2349 inhabitants. This place was the scene of a memo-
rable battle fought in the year 1005, upon a plain near
the bay of Ardendraught, between Malcolm II. and the
Danes under Canute, in which the latter, who had a
castle in the neighbourhood, were totally defeated. The
parish is situated on the shore of the German Ocean,
and is eleven miles in length, and varies in breadth from
four to seven miles, comprising mostly cultivated land.
The sea forms the southern boundary, and the coast
is marked by bold and lofty rocks of red granite, from
the east end to Slains Castle, close to which is the Ward,
a small fishing village affording occasionally a landing
place for coal and lime. Beyond this, to Sand End, a
distance of about two miles, stretches a fine sandy beach
called the Bay of Cruden, from the south extremity of
which runs a ridge of sunken rocks named the Scares
of Cruden ; and from this place the shore is exceedingly
abrupt and majestic all along the south, the rocks con-
sisting of black basalts. The climate is bleak ; and
when the wind is high the grandeur of the ocean is so
striking that Dr. Johnson, who visited this spot in his
celebrated tour, declared that Slains Castle was the
place from which he should wish to behold a storm.
Husbandry is on a respectable footing, great improve-
ments having been made, especially in draining ; and
the farmers, who have in general commodious houses,
live comfortably. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £S792. Quarries of red granite were in ope-
ration some time since, and supplied a material for
several of the London bridges ; but they have all been
2 12
CULL
CULL
closed. Very little wood is to be seen, and this is
chiefly in the vicinity of Slains Castle, a remarkably
strong edifice, built on the margin of the sea, and the
residence for generations of the earls of Erroll. A card-
ing and spinning mill was lately erected on the estate
of Aquaharney, and is on a somewhat extensive scale :
the thread manufactories formerly employing so many
hands have become totally extinct. The parish, which
has a post-office, is situated on the public road between
Aberdeen and Peterhead, and to the latter place and
Newburgh the produce is sent for sale, except that part
of the cattle disposed of at various other markets. A
small cattle-fair is held in April, and another in May;
and some business is done in the sale of fish, a salmon-
fishery being in operation near Ward, and there being
stations at. the other villages for the fish common to
the coast. The parish is in the presbytery of Ellon and
synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of the Earl of
Erroll; the minister's stipend is £204, with a manse,
and a glebe of six acres of arable land and pasturage
ground. The church was built in 17/6, and lately en-
larged. A place of worship has been recently erected
in connexion with the Free Church, and there is also an
episcopal chapel. The parochial school affords instruc-
tion in the usual branches ; the master has a salary of
£26, with £18 fees, and also participates in the Dlpk
bequest. A parochial library was established a few
years since.
CUFFABOUT, a hamlet, in the parish of Carriden,
county of Linlithgow ; containing 16 inhabitants.
This is a very small place, situated on the shore of the
Frith of Forth, a short distance east-south-east of Bridge-
ness, and close to the parochial church.
CULBOK1E, a village, in the parish of Urquhart
and Wester Logie, county of Ross and Cromarty;
containing 107 inhabitants. It is situated a short dis-
tance eastward from the shore of the Frith of Cromarty,
and about two miles and a half east-north-east from
Dingwall. Four fairs are holden in the course of the
year.
CULCABOCH, a village, in the parish and county
of Inverness, 1 mile (S. E.) from Inverness; contain-
ing 279 inhabitants. This village, which is pleasantly
situated to the west of the Castle Hill, is inhabited
chiefly by persons employed in agriculture, and by a
few wrights and masons.
CULLEN, a burgh, sea-
port, and parish, in the
county of Banff, 5 miles
(W. by N.) from Portsoy,
and 170 (N. by E.) from
Edinburgh: containing 1564
I inhabitants, of whom 712 are
in the town of Cullen, 7 1 1 in
— liSS^^J?) tne sea-town °f Cullen, and
IjSSlfw^) 141 in the rural district.
This place, the origin of the
name of which is altogether
Burgh Seal. uncertain, was originally
called Inverculan, being bounded on the north and west
by the water of Cullen, which falls into the sea on the
western side of the parish ; and in ancient times it
formed part of the parish of Fordyce. Its early history
is for the most part involved in obscurity ; but there
appears to be no reason to doubt the truth of the tradi-
244
tion, that a severe conflict took place here between the
Danes and the Scots under Indulfus, in the year 96O.
The king was killed by an arrow at the head of his
troops ; but the enemy were completely routed, and
this battle is supposed to have been among the last
fought with the Danes before their expulsion from the
kingdom in the beginning of the eleventh century. It
is known by the name of "the battle of the Baads," on
account of the field of action, which was the moor of
Rannachie, being called the Baads of Cullen ; tumuli
abound in every direction, and the decayed bones and
fragments of arms contained in them are concluded to
be the deposits of the remains of the defeated army.
The lands have, from a remote period, been the property
of the ancestors of the Earl of S?afield, the present pro-
prietor, who traces his descent from Gilchrist Ogilvie,
created Earl of Angus by Ring Malcolm Canmore. A
bede-house was erected, most probably by one of this
family, and endowed for the support of eight decayed
farmers and eight farmers' widows ; but the hospital
system was abolished about sixty j'ears since, and the
funds are now applied by the Earl of Seafield, who has
the management, to the distribution of meal to poor
families belonging to his estates in the parishes of
Cullen, Rathven, Deskford, and Fordyce. The church
of Cullen, originally dedicated to St. Mary, was founded
by Robert I., whose queen, Elizabeth, is supposed to
have been buried in it, and who appointed a chaplain,
with an endowment, to offer up prayers for her soul.
It had a provost, six prebendaries, and two singing
boys, whose offices were founded in 1543, by one of the
Ogilvies, aided by several eminent persons of both the
clergy and laity : the foundation was endowed with con-
siderable property and many privileges, and was sub-
sequently confirmed by William, Bishop of Aberdeen,
and John, Archbishop of St. Andrew's. The town was
much exposed in turbulent times to the violence of
party commotions. It was repeatedly plundered by the
Marquess o! Montrose, and on one occasion, in Mav,
1645, he sent troops to the place, who first plundered
it of every thing valuable, and then burnt it to the
ground.
The town is situated on the coast of the Moray Frith,
and consists of two parts, entirely separated, called re-
spectively the New-town, and the Sea or Fish town.
The former of these received its distinguishing appella-
tion from its recent erection in place of the old town,
which was meanly built, and entirely demolished about
the year 1822, to make room for the improvements of
Cullen House. It stands nearer to the sea than the old
town, being close to the eastern extremity of the Sea-
town, and is on a much higher site. There are many
good houses, regularly and tastefully disposed ; and it
has altogether a neat and interesting appearance, and
forms a striking contrast to the miscellaneous collection
of fishermen's tenements below, constituting the Sea-
town. All the buildings contemplated in the plan are
not yet completed ; but the favourable situation of
the place for fishing and agricultural occupations, and
the agreeable character of the surrounding district,
afford every promise of future advancement. Its con-
tiguity to the beautiful bay of Cullen, and the pictu-
resque grounds of Cullen House, with the traffic of the
post-road from Banff to Fochabers, which runs through
it, invest the immediate locality with a lively and pleas-
CULL
CULL
ing appearance, while the highly diversified scenery
around, comprising hill and dale, wood and water, with
well cultivated fields, and the precipitous and majestic
rocks along the shore, unite to rcuder the environs at-
tractive. Some of the eminences command fine views
of the sea, enlivened with trading vessels and fishing-
hoats, with the lofty headland of Scarnose at the western
extremity of the bay, and the Castle hill, the site of an
old fortification, overhanging the Sea-town ; and over
the Frith, in the distance, are seen the sable mountains
of Sutherland and Caithness. The Bin hill, bordering
upon the parish, and rising IO76 feet above the sea, and
which is planted with trees of various kinds, is also
a prominent object in the surrounding scenery, and
affords an excellent landmark to mariners. The town
contains numerous good shops, and has every conve-
nience calculated to render it a desirable place of resi-
dence : many of the houses are lighted with gas, sup-
plied by a company established in 1841, with a capital
of £1000. Among the public buildings the most con-
spicuous is the hotel, erected in 1S22, at a cost of
£3000, by the Earl of Seafield. It is situated in the
public square, and has attached to it an elegant ball-
room, forty-three feet long and twenty-three broad ; a
spacious room in which the sheriff and justice-of-peace
courts are held ; and the council-room of the burgh, an
elegant circular apartment, twenty-three feet in diameter
and sixteen feet high.
The inhabitants were formerly much engaged in
manufactures. In 1748, the Earl of Findlater and Sea-
field introduced the manufacture of linen, and subse-
quently sixty-five looms were constantly at work, some
of them for weaving damask, besides seven stocking-
looms. In addition to this, a great number of webs
were given out to be woven by country people in their
own houses : but these sources of employment have
now all ceased, and the inhabitants are. almost exclu-
sively occupied in agriculture and fishing. There are
about thirty boats belonging to the place which are en-
gaged in fishing for cod, skate, ling, and haddocks : the
herring-fisher}', on account of some recent failures in
the quantity of fish, has been given up, and the men
and their boats are hired every season by the curers
at Wick, Macduff, Fraserburgh, and Peterhead. The
average annual value of the several fisheries carried on
in the bay is £7543, including £*50 for. the salmon-
fishery. About twenty persons are employed in boat-
building, and complete above forty boats each year ;
and recently, five vessels, varying in burthen from 40
to 110 tons, have been built here in three years. The
harbour, which is small but convenient, was constructed
by the Earl of Seafield in 1S17, and enlarged in 1S34
by an additional quay, the cost of the whole work
having amounted to more than £10,000 ; the water at
neap tides is eight feet and a half deep, and twelve feet
at spring tides. There are four vessels belonging to the
port of from 40 to 100 tons each, the aggregate bur-
then being 270 tons. Coal, salt, staves, and barley for
distillation, constitute the chief imports ; and the ex-
ports are, herrings, dried-fish, timber, oats, and pota-
toes. A distillery was erected in 1SC24, and considerably
enlarged in 1S28 ; it produces annually upwards of
25,000 gallons of proof spirits, and on the water of
Cullen are a lint-mill, a saw-mill, and a meal-mill.
Steam-boats plying between Inverness and Leith visit
245
the bay. A weekly market is held for the sale of grain
during the spring months ; and there are fairs, princi-
pally for the hiring of servants, on the third Friday in
May, the second Friday in November, and the 7th of
January. Cullen is a royal burgh of considerable an-
tiquity, as appears from a charter of James I., dated
1455, ratifying one of Robert I., by which the usual
liberties and privileges had been granted. It was at
one time a constabulary, of which the Earl of Findlater
was hereditary constable, by virtue of an ancient right ;
but the council now consists of a provost, three bailies,
a dean of guild, treasurer, and thirteen others, the juris-
diction extending over a district of about three miles
from east to west, and two from north to south. The
parliamentary boundaries are much less extensive than
those of the royalty : the burgh is united with Elgin,
Banff, Inverury, Peterhead, and Kintore, in sending a
member, and of the constituency of the whole thirty-
eight belong to Cullen. A sheriff small-debt court, for
sums not exceeding £S. 6. 8., is held on the second
Thursday in February, June, and October ; and a jus-
tice-of-peace court on the first Tuesday in every month,
for sums not exceeding £5. A lock-up house containing
three apartments is used for the punishment of delin-
quents, and for the custody of persons to be afterwards
sent to the county gaol.
The parish is about a mile and a half in length,
from north to south, and one mile in breadth, and com-
prises 684 acres, of which 34 are occupied as the site
of the town, 425 are arable, 1 1 0 park grounds belong-
ing to Cullen House, and the remainder waste pastur-
age and moor, along the sea-shore. The land in general
is of superior quality, and consists of a rich loam, in-
cumbent on clay or gravel, and yielding crops of wheat,
barley, oats, potatoes, and turnips ; the soil on the
higher grounds is thin, resting on gravel, but tolerably
productive, and most of the land owes its abundant
returns, in a great measure, to the profusion of fish-
refuse applied as manure. About 200 acres of land are
let to the inhabitants of the town, in small allotments,
each being sufficient for the support of a cow. The
towns-people usually keep the Banffshire cows ; the
cattle on the farms are mostly a cross between the
Banffshire and Teeswater : the sheep are chiefly of the
Cheviot, kind. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £2243. Cullen House, situated at a small distance
from the town, is an ancient structure with many splen-
did apartments, elegantly furnished, and is embosomed
in plantations covering about thirty acres, and com-
prising all the trees, both useful and ornamental, found
in the country. At the base of the rock on which the
mansion stands, flows the water of Cullen, here crossed
by a stone bridge of one arch ; and the numerous wind-
ing walks and drives also contribute to the beautifully
picturesque appearance of the pleasure-grounds. The
parish is in the presbytery of Fordyce and synod of
Aberdeen, and in the patronage of the Earl of Seafield.
The minister's stipend is £156, of which about a fourth
is received from the exchequer, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £2/ per annum. The church, accom-
modating 800 persons, is a cruciform structure of great
antiquity, but still in very good condition. It is situ-
ated in the centre of the old burial-ground, nearly en-
compassed by the lands of Cullen House ; and the in-
terior contains many elegant monuments to members
C UL R
CULR
Bur eh Seal.
of the Findlater and Seafield family who were buried
here. A portion of the parish of Rathven has long been
attached to Cullen quoad sacra, and a church was
erected in that district in 1839, chiefly by the assistance
of the Earl of Seafield. A place of worship has been
erected in connexion with the Free Church. The paro-
chial or grammar school affords instruction in the usual
branches ; the master has a salary of £36, with a house
and garden, between £10 and £15 fees, and a share in
the Dick bequest. A parochial library was established
in 1830.
CULLICUDDEN, Ross andCROMARTY.— See Kirk-
MICHAEL AND CULLICUDDEN.
CULROSS,a royal burgh
and a parish, in the county
of Perth, 7 miles (W.) from
Dunfermline, and 21 (W. N.
Xff W.) from Edinburgh ; con-
pjtaining, with the villages of
^i/iHf Blairburn and Lowvalley-
§ field, 1444 inhabitants, of
whom 603 are in the burgh.
This place, which is of re-
mote antiquity, derives its
name from its situation in
a detached portion of the
county, forming part of the peninsula of Fifeshire. It
was anciently the property of the Macduffs, of whose
baronial residence, Dunnemarl Castle, there are still
some remains on Castle Hill, on the banks of the Forth,
to the west of the town. Here, according to tradition,
was perpetrated the murder of Lady Macduff and her
children by the usurper Macbeth. A monastery was
founded in 1278, by Malcolm, Thane of Fife, for bre-
thren of the Cistercian order, and dedicated to the Vir-
gin Mary and St. Serf or Servanus. It continued to
flourish till the Reformation, at which time Alexander,
son of Sir James Colville, was abbot ; and to his brother,
Sir James, the revenues, amounting to £768. 16. "i\. in
money, besides considerable payments in kind, were, in
1604, granted by James VI., who also raised him to
the peerage by the title of Lord Colville of Culross.
The abbey and lands attached to it subsequently be-
came the property of the Earl of Dundonald, from
whom they were purchased by Sir Robert Preston,
Bart., whose representative is the present proprietor.
The town, which is situated on the north shore of
the Frith of Forth, consists of one principal street, ex-
tending from the Frith by a precipitous acclivity to-
wards the north, and of several detached portions along
the coast. The houses are generally of ancient charac-
ter, and to most of them is attached a portion of garden
ground, presenting, as seen from the Frith, a picturesque
and interesting appearance, which is heightened by
numerous handsome seats and pleasing villas in the
immediate vicinity. A very considerable trade was
formerly carried on in the export of coal, of which a
mine had been excavated, extending for some distance
under the waters of the Frith, and also in the manufac-
ture of salt. The produce of the mine was chiefly sent
to Holland, whence various kinds of merchandise were
imported, and distributed from this town to different
parts of the country ; but the mine was long since ex-
hausted, and the trade has been discontinued. The
manufacture of girdles for baking oatmeal cakes, for
246
which the town had patents from James VI. and Charles
II., was also pursued for some time ; but since the
establishment of the Carron iron-works, where they
are made at a very reduced price, that manufacture has
ceased. The only trade now carried on is the weaving
of linen for the manufacturers of Dunfermline, and of
cotton-cloths for those of Glasgow, in which about
seventy persons are employed. Fairs are held on the
2nd of July and the third Wednesday in November ;
and there are two good inns.
Culross was erected into a royal burgh in 1588, by
charter of James VI., under which it is governed by a
chief magistrate and nineteen councillors. There are
seven incorporated trades, the weavers, wrights, shoe-
makers, bakers, smiths, tailors, and butchers, into which
only burgesses are admissible ; the fees for admission
vary, for sons of freemen from 13s. 6rf. to £1. 1., and
for strangers from £2. 5. to £3. The magistrates have
the usual civil and criminal jurisdiction, but no cases
have come under their notice since the year 1828. The
burgh is associated with those of Dunfermline, Inver-
keithing, Queensferry, and Stirling, in returning a mem-
ber to the imperial parliament ; the number of qualified
voters is twenty-two. The town-house is an ancient,
building, to which is attached a small prison containing
two apartments, one for debtors, and the other for
criminal offenders, chiefly against the police. Facility
of communication is afforded by good roads, of which
a turnpike-road, recently constructed, passes through
the centre of the parish to Dunfermline ; and a pier
has been constructed at the old harbour, from which
there is a ferry to Borrowstounness, on the opposite
shore of the Frith.
The parish formerly included the barony of Kincar-
dine, which was separated from it in 1672, and added
to the parish of Tulliallan. It is about four miles in
length, and nearly of equal breadth, comprising about
10,000 acres, of which nearly 4000 are arable, 2000
woodland and plantations, and the remainder pasture,
garden ground, and waste. The surface rises in bold
undulations from the shore of the Frith, for some dis-
tance towards the north and north-west, forming a
ridge of low hills, beyond which it subsides into a
fertile valley watered by a rivulet called the Bluther.
The soil along the shore is a deep black loam of great
fertility ; towards the middle of the parish, of a clayey
nature, but under good management producing favour-
able crops ; and towards the north and north-west, of
poorer quality. The crops are, wheat, oats, barley, peas,
beans, potatoes, and turnips ; the system of husbandry
is in a very advanced state. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £5600. The plantations, which are
very extensive, and in a thriving condition, contain
every variety of firs and hard-wood trees, of which
latter oak and beech seem best adapted to the soil. The
principal substrata are clay-slate and sandstone. Clay
of good quality for pottery and for fire-bricks may be
procured in abundance ; limestone and ironstone are
also found, but not in sufficient quantities to remunerate
the labour of working. The mansion houses are, Cul-
ross Abbey, formerly the seat of the Bruce family, and
afterwards of the Earl of Dundonald, beautifully situ-
ated on the shore ; Valleyfield, lately the seat of Sir
Robert Preston, an elegant mansion in a demesne taste-
fully laid out, and embellished with plantations ; Castle
C U L S
C U LS
Hill, a handsome modern seat, near the site of the castle
of the Macduff's ; and Blair Castle, built on the site of
an ancient seat erected by Hamilton, Archbishop of St.
Andrew's.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Dunfermline and synod of
Fife. The living is collegiate ; the minister of the first
charge has a stipend of £156, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £20, and the minister of the second charge
£116, with an allowance in money in lieu of manse, and
a glebe valued at £25. Lady Keith and Lady Baird
Preston are alternate patrons. The church is a portion
of the ancient abbey, originally a venerable cruciform
structure, with a lofty tower rising from the centre,
which, with the choir now appropriated as the parish
church, and containing 700 sittings, are the only parts
remaining. On the north side is the burying-place of
the Bruce family, containing a monument on which are
recumbent figures of Sir George Bruce and his lady,
and, beneath, of their seven children in a kneeling pos-
ture, beautifully sculptured in white marble. On one
side of this aisle is a projecting piece of masonry con-
taining, in a silver case, the heart of Edward, second
Lord Bruce of Kinross, who fell in a duel near Bergen-op-
Zoom, in 1614. The parochial school is well attended;
the master has a salary of £34, with a house and gar-
den, and the fees average £30, in addition to which he
receives £10 from a bequest. There is also an endowed
school for boys and girls, of which the master receives
a salary of £36, with a house and garden, for gratui-
tously teaching twenty children, and superintending a
Sunday school.
Dr. Bill, a native of the parish, who died in London
in 173S, bequeathed £1000 for the payment of small
sums quarterly to four decayed tradesmen and two
tradesmen's widows, for apprenticing young persons,
and for the foundation of a bursary in one of the uni-
versities. Sir George Bruce of Carnock, in 1639,
founded an hospital, which he endowed for the main-
tenance of six aged widows of the parish ; the building
has long since fallen into decay, but the income from
the endowment is distributed among eight widows. The
late Sir Robert Preston and his lady bequeathed an
endowment for the distribution of meal and money,
weekly, to six aged men and six aged women, who have
lived for ten years in the parish. Connected with this
charity is a building in which soup is given, two days
in the week, during the winter, to families in this and
the adjoining parish of Torryburn. Miss Halkerston,
of Carskerdo, in the county of Fife, lately left a sum of
money to be invested in land, for the relief of indus-
trious persons not receiving parochial aid. At the east
end of the town are the remains of St. Mungo's chapel,
near which, according to tradition, that saint was born,
and educated by Serf, the patron saint of the parish ;
and to the west of the abbey are some remains of the
ancient parish church.
CULSAMOND, or Culsalmond, a parish, in the
district of Garioch, county of Aberdeen, 2§ miles
(N. W.) from Old Rayne; containing 1104 inhabitants.
This place is said to have derived its name from the
Gaelic term Cul-Sal-Mon, signifying the end of the hill
lands. The parish is about four and a half miles in
length, from north to south, and three in breadth ; and
comprises 7400 acres, of which 4000 are in tillage, 300
247
in pasture, 900 in plantations, and the remainder uncul-
tivated. The surface is level, with the exception of one
or two moderate elevations, of which Culsamond hill
commands a fine view of Belrinnes on the west, and, on
the north-west, of the Caithness hills, and part of the
Moray Frith and of the Buchan district in the distance.
The river Urie passes through the whole length of the
parish, and, after flowing for about nineteen miles from
its source in the parish of Gartly, and drawing into its
channel many minor streams, empties itself into the
Don at Inverury. The soil is various, but in general
consists of a dark loam, partly on a sandy and iron-
stone bottom ; clay in some places forms the subsoil,
and the land is for the most part fertile, and the crops
usually early. In the hill of Culsamond are several
quarries of valuable slate, of a fine blue colour, from
which large quantities are annually raised ; and iron-
stone is also found in the parish, lying in detached
masses on or near the surface. Bog-iron ore has also
been discovered in combination with decomposed oak-
wood, about eight feet below the surface. A bed of sand,
of a coarse kind, is spread a little below the ground on
the estate of Pulquhite, supposed to be the debris of
granite belonging to the hill of Benochee, and brought
hither by the action of water ; and on the same farm,
in the northern portion, is a bed of moss, about three
feet below the surface, ill some parts above eight feet
deep, and reaching from north to south between thirty
and forty yards, over which a soil composed chiefly of
gravel and stones has been deposited by some casualty.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £4602.
The plantations, which were commenced about seventy
years since, though not very extensive, yet being dis-
persed, and often appearing in the form of clumps and
belts, give a picturesque appearance to the district. On
the hill of Culsamond, 250 acres have been planted
w'ithin the present century ; and the vicinity of Wil-
liamston House, and also that of Newrton House, both
modern mansions, pleasantly situated on the east bank
of the Urie, have been much improved and beautified
by the tasteful arrangement of their surrounding plan-
tations. The turnpike-road from Aberdeen to Inver-
ness, by Inverury and Old Rayne, passes through
the parish. A fair is held in June, for cattle, horses,
sheep, and wool. The parish is in the presbytery of
Garioch and synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage
of Sir John Forbes ; the minister's stipend is £150, of
which above a third is received from the exchequer, with
a manse, and a glebe of ten acres, valued at £30 per
annum. The church is in good condition. The paro-
chial school affords instruction in the usual branches ;
the master has a salary of £34, with a house, erected in
1S23, an allowance in lieu of a garden, and about £19
fees. Among the numerous vestiges of military works,
are those of a British encampment on the north-east
side of the hill of Culsamond. There are also slight
remains of Druidical temples and some ancient cairns,
in one of the latter of which, on the farm of Mill of
Williamston, opened in 1S12, was found an immense
wooden coffin, of very rude construction, containing an
urn, and supposed to have been deposited anterior to
the Christian era. A few stone axes and other warlike
instruments have been found ; and some years since a
gold coin of James I. was dug up, in fine preservation.
A highway called the Lawrence road, thought to be
CULT
CULT
some hundreds of years old, and to have been con-
structed for the avoidance of the swamps and floods on
the lower grounds, and for security against wild beasts,
crosses the hill of Culsamond, and was formerly used by
persons travelling to St. Lawrence fair, at Old Rayne.
CULTER, a parish, in the Upper ward of the county
of Lanark, 2| miles (S. W.) fromBiggar; containing
536 inhabitants, of whom 197 are in the village. This
place takes its name from its situation in the rear of the
district of which it forms a part. The parish was origi-
nally of less extent than at present, having in 1794 been
much enlarged by the addition of part of the parish of
Kilbucho, in the adjoining count}' of Peebles. It is
now seven miles in length, and rather less than three in
average breadth ; it is bounded on the west by the river
Clyde, and comprises 11,547 acres, of which 4000 are
arable, 7000 meadow and pasture, and 500 woodland
and plantations. The surface is pleasingly undulated,
and towards the south rises into hills of considerable
eminence, increasing into mountains, of which the
highest, called the Fell, has an elevation of more than
2300 feet above the sea. The lower part of the parish
is diversified with spreading vales and narrow glens.
The former are enlivened by the course of the river
Clyde, the banks of which are ornamented with hand-
some seats and pleasure-grounds ; and of the latter, the
glen of Culter Water, which derives its name from that
rivulet, is beautifully picturesque and romantic. The
wider portion of it is richly cultivated and wooded, and
the narrower part gradually diminishes till it scarcely
affords room for the passage of the stream, which, after
flowing through the whole length of the parish, falls
into the Clyde a little below the village. At a point
called Wolf-Clyde, the river makes a remarkable curve
towards the north-west, approaching very nearly to the
bank of the Biggar water, which runs into the Tweed ;
and in high floods, uniting with that stream, a consi-
derable portion of the Clyde waters is carried into the
Tweed.
The soil varies considerably, but is generally dry and
fertile. The lower lands consist of a sandy loam, which,
under good management, is very productive ; on the
hills the soil is of much lighter quality, and on the
summits mostly a sterile moss ; towards the eastern
Dart of the parish, on the lands of Kilbucho, it inclines
to clay. The hills are of the greywacke formation ; and
little variety is found in the substrata, except the occa-
sional occurrence of conglomerate or pudding-stone.
The system of agriculture has been greatly improved
under the auspices of the chief landed proprietor, who
has also greatly promoted the plantation of timber, the
draining and inclosure of the lands, and the raising of
wheat crops, to which previously little attention had
been paid. The rotation plan of husbandry is now
generally prevalent, and green crops are found to
answer well ; the chief produce of the cornfields is
oats. The sheep are the short black-faced breed,
which are found to be the best adapted to the hilly
pastures ; the cows are the Ayrshire. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £5231. The plantations
are principally of Scotch fir ; but, though it thrives well
for a few years, it soon falls into decay, and conse-
quently little timber of any growth is produced. At
Culterallers, however, are some acres of natural trees,
among which are the alder, birch, hazel, mountain-ash,
248
and willow ; and in other parts of the parish are re-
markably fine specimens of ancient timber. The man-
sion-houses, most of which are beautifully situated on
the banks of the Clyde, add greatly to the scenery of
the parish. The village is pleasantly situated on the
banks of the Culter water, along which, at irregular
distances, a range of neatly-built houses with interven-
ing trees of fine growth, extends for a considerable way.
It is intersected by the turnpike-road from Dumfries to
Edinburgh, which is carried over the stream by a neat
bridge of modern erection.
The parish, which is of some antiquity, belonged in
the reign of David II. to Walter Byset, who held the
half barony of Culter of the king in capite, and in 1367
granted the lands, with the advowson of the church,
excepting only the lands of Nisbet, to William New-
biggin, of Dunsyre. They afterwards came into the
possession of William, Earl of Douglas, by whose de-
scendant, James, they were in 1455 forfeited to the
crown. Sir David Menzies, who afterwards obtained
possession of the half barony, gave the lands of Wolf-
Clyde to the abbey of Melrose, and they now pay annu-
ally a small sum to the Duke of Buccleuch as lord of
that manor. The parish is in the presbytery of Biggar
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and in the
patronage of the families of Baillie of Lamington, and
Dickson of Kilbucho, alternately. The minister's sti-
pend is £217, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£30. 12. per annum. The church, erected in 1S10, a
plain edifice beautifully situated, commodious, and ac-
cessible to the parishioners, is adapted to a congrega-
tion of nearly 400 persons. A place of worship has
been erected in connexion with the Free Church. The
parochial school affords education to all the children of
the parish except those of the part formerly in the parish
of Kilbucho, the original school of which is still re-
tained ; the salary of the master of Culter school is
£34, with £20 fees, and a dwelling-house and garden.
There was formerly a preceptory of the Knights' Tem-
plars on the banks of the Culter water, a little below
the village ; the site is called Chapel Hill. Remains
exist of four circular encampments, which seem to have
been formed for the protection of the inhabitants, and
the security of their cattle, during the periods of the
border warfare. There are also two circular moats, one
at Wolf Clyde, and one at Bamflat, which appear to have
been raised as signal stations ; and along the vale be-
tween the Clyde and the Tweed, is a continuous chain
of similar mounds, most probably employed for the
same purpose. About half a mile from the lands of
Nisbet, is an oval mound in the midst of a deep morass ;
the longer diameter is about forty yards, and the shorter
about thirty, and it rises above the surface to the height
of nearly three feet. It is called the Green Knowe, and
consists of heaps of loose stones, compacted together by
stakes of hard oak, sharpened at the points, and driven
into the ground. Around the base is a causeway of
larger stones ; and the whole is surrounded by a soft
elastic moss, impervious to the approach of an enemy.
CULTS, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county
of Fife ; including the village of Pitlessie, and the
hamlets of Crossgates, Cults-Mill, Hospital-Mill, and
Walton ; and containing 8S9 inhabitants, of whom 46
are in the hamlet of Cults-Mill, 4 miles (S. S. W.) from
Cupar. This parish, of which the name, in ancient
CULT
C U M B
documents Quilts or Quilques, is of Celtic origin, and
supposed to be descriptive of its situation, lies nearly in
the centre of the county, and is about two miles and a
quarter in length, and one mile and a half in breadth.
It comprises '2250 acres, of which 1900 are under culti-
vation, 140 meadow and pasture, 115 woodland and
plantations, 35 garden, and about 60 roads, fences, and
waste. The surface, though for the greater part flat, is
diversified with hills, of which the chief in height is that
of Walton, near the south-eastern boundary of the
parish, and from some of the hills are fine views over
the rich valley of Strath-Eden, embracing the Lomond
heights in the distance. The scenery is in some places
embellished with wood, and in others enlivened with va-
rious streams, of which the Eden, winding through the
lands, forms a boundary between part of this parish and
that of Collessie, and, towards the west, is joined by the
Ballomill rivulet, which, though of considerably less
breadth, has a plentiful supply of water.
The soil varies considerably in quality. In some
places it is light and sandy ; in others, a rich black
loam of about twelve inches in depth ; and on the
higher grounds, a strong clay which, under good ma-
nagement, produces excellent crops. The system of
agriculture is improved ; but much of the surface would
be rendered more productive if draining were extensively
practised, and little progress has been made in the in-
closure of the lands. The crops are, grain of all kinds,
turnips, and potatoes. Few sheep are either reared
or fed, and these are generally of the Cheviot breed ;
the cattle, to the improvement of which much attention
is paid, are of the Fif'eshire breed. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £3208. The substrata are, yellow
sandstone, limestone, and in some places coal ; and the
hills, towards their summits, are generally trap or whin-
stone, partly of amygdaloid, and partly of greenstone.
Limestone is procured in abundance from quarries on
the Pitlessie hill ; the principal vein is about fourteen
feet in thickness, and of a blue colour, and above it is
another stratum, two feet thick. Both, when wrought,
produce lime of excellent quality, of which more than
25,000 bolls are annually obtained, the greater part
whereof is shipped at Newburgh for Dundee and Perth,
and the remainder used in the parish and adjacent dis-
trict. Coal was formerly worked, of which there were
pits on the southern declivity of the Pitlessie hill ; the
seams are superincumbent on the strata of limestone,
and one of them is about twelve inches in thickness.
There are several quarries of freestone of good quality,
affording an abundant supply for building and other
purposes ; and boulder limestone is also procured for
mending the roads. The only house of any importance
is Crawfurd Priory, a handsome castellated mansion,
erected by Lady Mary Lindsay Crawfurd in 1813, when
the ancient family seat in the adjoining parish of Ceres,
having become dilapidated, was abandoned.
The weaving of linen affords employment to about
150 persons, of whom nearly one-half are females ;
the number of webs, which are 140 yards in length,
and thirty inches wide, may be reckoned to average
1700 per annum. The linen chiefly woven is dowlas,
for the manufacturers of Kettle, Leslie, and Newburgh,
who furnish the materials. The spinning of tow is also
carried on at Hospital-mill, where an old corn and
flax mill has been converted to this purpose, at an ex-
Vol. I. — 249
pense of £4000 ; the machinery is propelled by a water-
wheel of fourteen-horse power, and the quantity of yarn
spun annually is from 160 to 180 tons, sent principally
to Dundee. This work affords employment to about
fifty persons, of whom the greater number are women
and children. There are also mills for flour, barley,
malt, and oatmeal, a saw-mill driven by water, and
another by steam. The high road from Edinburgh to
Dundee passes through the parish. An annual fair is
held for the sale of agricultural stock and implements
of husbandry, on the second Tuesday in May (O. S.),
and is numerously attended. The parish is in the
presbytery of Cupar and synod of Fife, and patronage
of the United College of St. Andrew's ; the minister's
stipend is £162, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£11 per annum. The church, which is situated about
a mile from the village, and nearly in the centre of the
parish, is a neat plain edifice, erected in 1?93, and
contains a handsome monument in marble, by Chantrey,
erected by Sir David Wilkie to the memory of his
parents. There is a place of worship for members of
the United Associate Synod. The parochial school
affords education to about sixty children ; the master
has a salary of £34, with about £35 fees, and a good
house and garden. On the sides of Walton Hill are
several ramparts, supposed to have been a Roman
encampment ; and urns and other relics have been dis-
covered on and near the spot. Sir David Wilkie, the
eminent painter, was born in the manse on the 18th
November, 17S5, while his father, the Rev. David
Wilkie, was incumbent. The latter was the author of
a treatise on the Theory of Interest and Annuities ;
the former, who had been appointed limner for Scotland
to George IV., was knighted by his Majesty William
IV., in 1S36, and died in 1841. Dr. Thomas Gillespie,
professor of humanity in the university of St. Andrew's,
and author of sermons on The Seasons contemplated in the
Spirit of the Gospel, was for fifteen years incumbent of
the parish.
CUMBERNAULD, a parish, in the county of
Dumbarton; including the village of Condorat, and
containing 3501 inhabitants, of whom many reside in
the village of Cumbernauld, 10 miles (W. S. W.) from
Falkirk. This place derives its name from a Celtic
term signifying a confluence of streams, in reference
to the junction of several small streams just below
the village. It is of considerable antiquity, though
the parish was not erected until 1649 : the wall of
Agricola, called Graham's Dyke, with other ancient
relics, connects its history with that of the Roman
invaders, but nothing is recorded to supply us with any
particulars concerning their proceedings in these parts.
There was formerly a castle here, and at the close of
the 13th century, the castle and barony belonged to
John Comyn, Earl of Buchan, but afterwards fell to
the crown by the forfeiture of that nobleman : in the
14th century, they passed to the Flemings, of Biggar
and Cumbernauld, who were subsequently created earls
of Wigton, and rose to considerable importance in the
transactions of Scottish history. The barony formerly
belonged to Stirlingshire, but in the reign of David
II., Malcolm Fleming, sheriff of Dumbarton, obtained
its annexation to Dumbartonshire, and the disjunction
of several parishes from Dumbarton, and their annex-
ation to Stirling. This arrangement was afterwards
2 K
C U M B
CUM B
disturbed by an act of parliament, in 1503 ; but the
act was repealed, and the settlement effected by Mal-
colm Fleming permanently established.
The parish, situated at the eastern extremity of the
shire, is about eight miles long, and from three to
four broad, and contains 9145 Scotch acres. The sur-
face is diversified by a succession of ridges and slopes,
and the whole sweep being very considerably above the
level of the sea, the climate is rendered sharp and
cold. The highest part is a deep moss covered with
heath, and called Fannyside-muir, in which quanti-
ties of grouse and black-cock are found; the remainder
of the surface is arable and wood, among which
game of all kinds is abundant, and in spring the roe-
buck is frequently seen, and sometimes the squirrel.
The streams of Luggie and Kelvin enliven the lands,
but are of inconsiderable dimensions ; they formerly
abounded in good fish, but now a few trout only are to
be found. The lakes, which were once numerous, have
been drained, and converted into arable land, and the
only remaining one is the fresh-water loch of Fan-
nyside, which covers about seventy acres, and is but a
few feet deep ; pike and perch are taken in it, and it
is visited by flocks of wild-duck and teal. The soil
is chiefly a deep clayey loam, tolerably fertile; 6168
acres are arable, 2170 pasture and moss, 5S0 planta-
tions and woods, and the rest roads and water. Within
the last twenty years, many improvements have taken
place in husbandry, by draining and levelling, and by
the use of lime and good dung manure ; and since the
introduction of green crops, a considerable quantity of
land has been brought into corn cultivation, though
previously considered altogether unfit for the purpose.
The breed of cows and horses has recently been much
attended to ; the dairy-farms are of a very superior
kind, and their chief produce is butter, which is sold
at Falkirk and Glasgow. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £15,430.
The subsoil is an impervious till, much of which has
been advantageously drained ; the rocks are whinstone
and trap, which mainly compose those numerous ridges
whereby the surface is marked. Freestone and lime-
stone are found in large quantities, and a quarry of
the former is wrought at Netherwood, near the Forth
and Clyde canal, where also, as well as at. Cumbernauld,
limestone of excellent, quality is obtained. The free-
stone, which is chiefly used in building, produces an-
nually a large sum, and the limestone £6000. Coal
is found in several places, especially near the freestone
quarry at the Hirst ; and on the farm of Westerwood is
a mine of ironstone, let to the Carron Company. The
mansion of Cumbernauld, the ancient seat of the Fle-
mings, is surrounded by fine plantations, some of the
trees of which are holly of a large size and imposing
appearance. Here and in many other parts, oak, ash,
lime, chesnut, elm, beech, and plane diversify the
scenery, and are in a flourishing condition. The village
of Cumbernauld, which contains nearly one-half of the
population of the parish, was created a burgh of barony
in 1649; it has a fair in May, at which there is a con-
siderable traffic in cattle. About one-fifth of the popu-
lation is employed in cotton- weaving, 560 looms being
at work in the parish ; but, during the fluctuations
to which the trade is exposed, many of the hands
obtain support by labouring in the coal and iron
250
mines. There is a penny-post to Glasgow ; and the
mail by Crieff, and coaches to Perth, Edinburgh, Alloa,
and Stirling formerly passed daily to and from Glas-
gow, but that to Perth is the only one now left on the
road. The Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, also, which
passes through the parish south of the canal, attains
its summit level here.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the pres-
bytery of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
There is a manse, built in 1827, with a glebe of about
eleven acres, valued at £17. 10. per annum ; the minis-
ter's stipend is £230, and John Elphinstone Fleming,
Esq., is patron. The church is situated in the village,
in the centre of the parish, and is an old, inconvenient,
and uncomfortable building ; it contains 650 sittings,
but is much too small for the population. There are
also places of worship for members of the Free Church
and United Secession ; and a parochial school is sup-
ported, the master of which has a salary of £25, with
house and garden, and £26 fees. The village has a
good subscription library, consisting of 1200 volumes ;
also a savings' bank, established in 1815; and a so-
ciety of masons. The late Viscount Keith bequeathed
£90, the interest to be divided among the poor on
the 1st of January. The chief relic of antiquity is
Graham's Dyke, a part of which runs through the parish.
Traces of an old Roman road may be seen in the
moss of Fannyside ; and in the vicinity of Cumbernauld
House is an elevation called the Towe Hill, where in
ancient times the feudal baron held his court. In the
formation of the Forth and Clyde canal, which runs
through the bog of Dullatur, many warlike instruments
were found, with the bodies of men, among which was
a trooper, completely armed, and sitting upright on
horseback, exactly in the position in which he had
perished. He is supposed to have belonged to Baillie's
army, when that general fought the Marquess of
Montrose, 15th of August, 1745, and in his flight to
have ridden accidentally into the bog.
CUMBRAY, GREAT, an island and parish, in the
county of Bute, 2 miles (W.) from Largs ; including
the villages of Millport and Newton, and containing
1413 inhabitants. The name is derived from a Gaelic
term signifying a bold or steep coast rising abruptly
from the sea, and this description corresponds with the
natural appearance of the island, which presents a steep
and precipitous coast all round. The island is supposed
formerly to have been in the possession of the Norwe-
gians, concerning whose occupancy, however, no particu-
lars are known. They are said to have been dispossessed
of the property after many successive encounters with
the Scots, by the decisive battle of Largs, when they
were completely routed and driven from the coast. A
cathedral once stood here, which was dedicated to St.
Columba, but no remains of it are now visible. The
island was formerly distributed into a number of small
baronies, the owners of the principal of which were the
families of Hunter, Stuart, and Montgomerie. The
barony of Karnes, belonging to the Hunters, has given
the name to one of the finest bays in the island, and on
this property, also, once stood the village of Karnes, some
vestiges of which may still be traced. The barony of
Ballykellet, which appears to have been the most con-
siderable of all, belonged to the Montgomeries, who pos-
sessed the patronage of the parish, and part of whose
CUMB
C U M I
mansion-house was until lately standing, having in it a
stone with the family arms sculptured.
The island is of very irregular figure, extending about
three and a half miles in length, from north-east to
south-west, and about two miles in breadth : its circum-
ference is ten miles, comprehending an area of 5120
acres. It is situated on the Frith of Clyde, and is sepa-
rated from Little Cumbray, on the south, by a strait
three-quarters of a mile in breadth; from Ayrshire, on
the east, by Fairley Road, about one mile and a half
broad ; and from the isle of Bute, on the west, by a part
of the Frith, which is about four miles wide. Numerous
hills rise, with a gradual ascent, from the extremities of
the island to its centre, and merge in one continuous
range called the Shough-ends, which runs from north
to south nearly throughout the whole length of the
island ; it attains an elevation of about 500 feet above
the sea, and commands in every direction a beautiful
view. The shores and bays abound with fish of various
kinds, and oysters are found in some parts. A stream
of inconsiderable dimensions, taking its rise from two
small lochs which communicate with each other, in the
highest part of the island, receives the waters of several
springs, and at length becomes sufficiently large to form
a mill-dam, which the people use for grinding their
corn. The soil varies iuditferent places. On the coast
it is light and sandy, lying on rock or clay ; on the
higher grounds it is gravelly and thin, tending to moss,
bedded on rock and covered with heath ; in some of the
valleys it is a deep rich loam, lying on clay, and pro-
ducing good crops. About 3000 acres are arable ; upwards
of 1400 are waste, a considerable part of which, however,
affords pasture for cattle; 30 acres are common, and
120 are planted. Grain and green crops of all kinds are
produced; the cattle are of the pure Ayrshire breed. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £1845.
The rocks consist of several varieties of whinstone, of
limestone, and sandstone. The limestone is not wrought,
on account of the expense of fuel ; but the sandstone,
which is plentiful, is wrought to a considerable extent,
quarries having been for some time open. There is
a regular communication with the land by steam-boats,
and the island is much resorted to by strangers. The
ecclesiastical aifairs are subject to the presbytery of
Greenock and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; patron, Lord
Glasgow. The stipend is £159, and there is a good
manse, with a glebe of six acres, valued at £S. 10. per
annum. The church, which was built in 1837, to meet
the exigencies of a largely augmented population, is situ-
ated on rising ground, immediately behind the village of
Millport ; it is a commodious and elegant structure, orna-
mented with a handsome tower, and capable of accom-
modating "50 persons. A place of worship has been
erected for Baptists ; likewise a Free church. There is
also a parochial school, where, in addition to the usual
branches, Latin, mensuration, and navigation are taught;
the master has the legal accommodations, and a salary
of £30, with £15 from fees. A parochial library is
supported.
CUMBRAY, LITTLE, an island, in the county of
Bute, ecclesiastically annexed to the parish of West
Kilbride, in the county of Ayr, and containing 8 inhabit-
ants. This island is situated in the Frith of Clyde,
between the island of Bute and the promontory of Port-
incross, from each of which it is distant about two
251
and a half miles. It anciently formed part of the do-
mains of the Stuart family, ancestors of the kings of
that line, and, on the erection of the principality of
Scotland by Robert III., in 1404, in favour of his son,
was concluded within its limits. It was for many years
retained as a royal preserve, and in 1515 was conferred
upon Hew, Earl of Eglinton, whose descendants are its
present proprietors. The island, which is composed
entirely of trap-rock, resting on the sandstone formation
of the opposite coast, is about a mile long, and half a
mile in breadth, and has an elevation of 600 feet above
the sea. The surface comprises about 700 acres; but,
with the exception of a few potato gardens, it does not
appear to have been cultivated. There are a few ash-trees
growing near the south-east extremity, but it is otherwise
perfectly destitute of wood, and the rocky pasture only
affords food for a few sheep and young cattle ; the island
is, indeed, chiefly a rabbit-warren at present, and about
500 dozens of rabbits are taken annually on the average,
and sent for the supply of the neighbouring markets.
Nearly in the centre is a circular tower, thirty feet in
height, once appropriated as a lighthouse, and still form-
ing a very conspicuous object from all parts of the
channel ; but it has long been neglected, and a lighthouse
has been built upon the edge of a precipice overhanging
the sea, on the west side of the island. This building,
with the keeper's house and garden, romantically con-
trasting with the rugged crags among which it is situa-
ted, has a truly picturesque appearance. In the southern
extremity of the island are several natural caverns,
formed by fissures in the rock ; the largest, on the east
side, is called the King's cave.
Near the old lighthouse are the remains of an ancient
square fort, of which the walls, six feet in thickness,
thirty-five feet in height, and nearly entire, inclose an
area twenty-eight feet in length and fifteen feet, wide,
formed into two apartments, of which the lower has a
vaulted stone roof. By whom, or at what, time, it was
erected is not known ; but being in the possession of the
Montgomerie family at the period of Cromwell's invasion
of Scotland, it was surprised and burnt by his soldiers.
To the north of the castle are the remains of an
ancient chapel dedicated to St. Vey, who was buried
here, in a tomb a little to the north of the chapel. These
remains consist chiefly of portions of the walls of the
chapel, which appears to have been a dependency of the
monastery of Iona ; the walls are about three feet in
thickness, and rudely built, inclosing an area of thirty
feet in length, and fifteen in width. Of the tomb, which
seems to have been comprised within four walls of stone,
two square stones only are left, one of which is broken
into two pieces ; they are ornamented with tracery, but
no inscription of any kind is to be discovered. At Shan-
willy point, on the north of the island, are several tumuli,
some of which were opened a few years before his death
by the late Earl of Eglinton, when sepulchral urns and
various fragments of weapons were found.
CUMINESTOWN, a village, in the parish of Mon-
dUHiTTER, district of Turriff, county of Aberdeen,
6 miles (E. by N.) from Turriff; containing 477 inha-
bitants. This place takes its name from the late Joseph
Cumine, Esq., who founded it near the middle of the
last century, and established in it a linen manufacture,
which still exists, and lately employed about 100 hands.
The present proprietor of Aucbry, the seat of the
2 K2
C U M M
CUMN
late Mr. Cumine, who purchased the mansion and estate,
has actively pursued the plans partially carried out by
his spirited predecessor, for the improvement of his
property in the parish, and the promotion of the
agricultural interest. A post-office has been established
in the village by his exertions ; and he has projected,
in connexion with other gentlemen, a new line of turn-
pike-road to run through it. A fair for cattle and
horses, also, is held on the last Thursday in April or
the first in May.
CUMMERTREES, a parish, in the county of Dum-
fries ; including the village of Powfoot, and containing
1277 inhabitants, of whom 1*24 are in the village of
Cummertrees, 4 miles (W.) from Annan. The parish
is supposed to have derived its name, anciently written
Curnbertres, from its having been formerly covered
with timber, considerable tracts of which still remain,
besides subterraneous forests of oak, fir, and birch,
with which the mosses are every where filled. It is
remarkable as containing the farm of Bruce, in which
there is a field called Broom Acres, where it is said
that Robert Bruce, through the treachery of a black-
smith, sustained a severe repulse from the English.
The most conspicuous family with which the ancient
history stands connected, is that of Herries. Their
residence, Hoddam Castle, which is situated on the
south bank of the river Annan, is said to have been
built with the stones of a more ancient castle of the
same name, between the years 1437 and 1484, by John,
Lord Herries, of Herries. The older castle had been
inhabited, in the beginning of the 14th century, by a
branch of the family of Robert Bruce, and destroyed
some time afterwards by a border law. The family of
Herries was very powerful, and acquired a large extent
of country; but about the year 1627, the barony of
Hoddam was obtained by Sir Richard Murray, of
Cockpool.
The parish comprehends the ancient chapelry of
Trailtrow, which was annexed to it at the Reformation ;
and is about seven miles in extreme length, and four
in extreme breadth, containing about 10,000 acres.
It is bounded by the Solway Frith on the south. A
part of the surface is level, forming an inclined plane
which rises gently from the south towards the north,
the highest point being not more than 200 feet above
the sea ; but after this there is a descent, from the
Tower of Repentance to the river Annan, which is some-
what rapid. The coast is flat, sandy, and uninter-
esting. Salmon, sea-trout, flounders, codlings, and
occasionally turbot and soles, are taken in the Solway,
and considerable quantities of cockles and muscles
along the shores ; in the Annan, salmon, common trout,
and herling are plentiful. The soil in some places is
sandy, and in others gravelly ; in a few instances deep
rich loam is met with, but in general the soil is a
thin wet clay, resting upon a hard tilly subsoil, and
requiring much skill to render it productive. About
6000 acres are occasionally under tillage, and 800 are
moss, of which, however, 300 are capable of cultivation ;
about 1000 acres are under wood, consisting chiefly
of plantations. The crops are nearly the same as in
other parishes where the modern improvements in
husbandry have been introduced. Cattle are reared in
large numbers ; the few sheep kept are generally a cross
between the Cheviots and South downs. Many hun-
252
dreds of acres which were waste thirty years ago, are
now in flourishing plantations, or under cultivation,
and inclosed with good hedges ; indeed, the successful
application of the best system of husbandry has entirely
altered the face of the parish within the present century.
The rocks consist of limestone and sandstone, the
former of which, quarried at Kelhead, is celebrated as
among the finest in the country, and brings an annual
revenue of above £1000 ; there are also two sandstone
quarries. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£6022.
The most interesting residence is the ancient castle,
remarkable for its strength and the thickness of its
walls, and which has received several additions by its
respective proprietors, of whom the late General Sharpe
built a large wing, in keeping with the other parts of
the edifice. The parish also contains the modern man-
sion of Kinmount House, built by the Marquess of
Queensberry, at the cost of £40,000. The turnpike-
road from Portpatrick to Carlisle intersects the parish.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the presbytery
of Annan and synod of Dumfries ; patron, the Crown.
There is a manse, with a glebe of the annual value of
£18 ; and the minister's stipend, including a government
grant of £37, is £158. The church, which was founded
by Robert Bruce, has frequently been rebuilt and en-
larged, the last time about fifty-five years since, and
contains 450 sittings. There is a parochial school, in
which, besides the ordinary branches, the classics, geo-
graphy, and navigation are taught ; the master has a
salary of £30, with £25 fees, and the allowance of
house and garden. Among the relics of antiquity is
the Tower of Repentance, said to have been built in
the 15th century, by Lord Herries, who, having used
the stones of an old chapel in building Hoddam Castle,
of which he afterwards repented, erected this tower, to
pacify his conscience, and to make his peace with the
Bishop of Glasgow, diocesan of the chapel. It is twenty-
five feet high, and stands on an eminence, which is
seen at a distance of thirty miles on all sides.
CUMMINGSTON, a village, in the parish of Duf-
fus, county of Elgin ; containing 155 inhabitants. This
place is situated on the south coast of the Moray Frith,
a short distance from Burgh-Head, which is the post-
town. It is a small and neglected village, chiefly inha-
bited by seamen, and the families of persons dependent
on the fisheries of the district.
CUMNOCK, NEW, a parish, in the district of
Kyle, county of Ayr, 6 miles (S. E. by S.) from Old
Cumnock; containing, with the villages of Castle, Path-
head, Mansfield, and Afton-Bridgend, 2382 inhabitants.
This parish, which was separated from that of Cumnock
in the year 1650, is situated at the south-east extremity
of the county. It is about twelve miles in length, from
east to west, and nine in breadth, from north to south,
and comprises about 75,000 acres, of which 15,000
are arable, 300 woodland and plantations, and the re-
mainder, of which about 3000 might be reclaimed and
brought into cultivation, is a very elevated tract of moss.
The surface is in general hilly, and towards the south
mountainous, but is varied with the two fine valleys of
the Nith and Afton, of which the former extends
through nearly the whole length of the parish, having
a mean elevation of about 500 feet above the sea,
and the latter, which is about fifty feet higher, intersects
CUMN
C U M N
the parish from north to south. The highest of the
mountains, called Blackcraig, has an elevation of 1600
feet ; the Knipe, a little to the south, has an elevation
of 1260 feet, and the Corsancone is 8/0 feet above the
level of the river Nith. From all these heights exten-
sive views are obtained of the surrounding districts, and
that from the Corsancone is singularly rich and beau-
tiful. The river Nith rises in the south-west of the
parish, and, after a course of about twelve miles, flows
by the base of Corsancone Hill, into the valley of
Nithsdale in the parish of Kirkconnell. The river Afton
rises near the southern boundary of the parish, and,
after a course of about eight miles, falls into the Nith
near the village. The surface is further diversified by
three lakes, little more than half a mile in circum-
ference ; they are of no great depth, but abound with
perch and pike, and are frequented by varieties of
aquatic fowl.
The soil is in some parts of a light gravelly quality,
and in others a tenacious clay ; but, by judicious
management and a liberal use of lime, it has been
much improved, and a tolerable quantity of unproduc-
tive land has been brought into profitable cultivation.
The crops are, oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and tur-
nips. Surface-draining is rapidly growing into practice,
and all the more recent improvements in husbandry,
and in implements of agriculture, have been adopted.
Considerable care is bestowed on the management of
live stock ; about 3500 cows are pastured on the vari-
ous farms, nearly half of which number are milch-
cows, and the value of cheese and butter annually pro-
duced is estimated at above £*000. More than 20,000
sheep are fed on the mountain pastures. There is
very little wood in the parish ; the plantations are chiefly
larch and spruce-fir, for which the soil appears to
be very favourable, and some larches planted on the
banks of the Afton have attained a very stately growth.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £14,117.
The substrata are, carboniferous limestone, coal, sand-
stone, and ironstone, and the hills of transition rock
and greywacke. The limestone is found in abun-
dance in many parts, occurring in beds of great thick-
ness ; it is of excellent quality, and the lime is much
used for cement, from its property of acquiring hard-
ness under water. There are several kilns on improved
principles, for burning the limestone, and the produce
annually is averaged at 200,000 bushels. The coal
is likewise very abundant, and of good quality; the
quantity annually raised is about 10,000 tons. In
the coalfield at Craigman, plumbago is found in irre-
gular masses, imbedded in basalt, and has been wrought
for a long time. The sandstone is generally of a yel-
lowish-white tint, but of coarse texture, and contains
various fossil impressions ; the ironstone occurs in de-
tached masses and veins in several parts of the coal
formation, but has not yet been worked.
The villages are chiefly inhabited by persons employed
in agriculture and in the mines and quarries ; there is
a post-office under that of Old Cumnock, and a library
which has a collection of more than 1040 volumes is
supported by subscription. A fair is held on the Thurs-
day before Whitsunday, for cattle, and considerable
business is transacted. The parish is in the presbytery
of Ayr and synod of Ayr and Glasgow, and in the
patronage of the Marquess of Bute. The minister's
253
stipend is about £212, with a manse, and a glebe valued
at £24 per annum. The church, which is situated
between the villages of New Cumnock and Afton-
Bridgend, is an elegant and substantial structure iu
the later English style, erected in 1834, by the heritors,
and is adapted for 1000 persons. There are places
of worship for members of the Free Church and
Reformed Presbyterian Synod. The parochial school
affords education to about 100 scholars ; the master
has a salary of £34, with £50 fees, and a house and
garden. On the summit of a knoll are some traces
of the ancient castle of Blackbog, of which all the
masonry has been removed, to furnish materials for
building, but of which the fosse may be still distinctly
seen. This castle was at one time the residence of the
Dunbars of Mochrum, and was frequently visited by
Sir William Wallace. On the lands of Sir John Cath-
cart are also the ruins of an ancient baronial castle,
near the source of the river Nith. Upon the farm
of Whitehill, an earthen jar was dug up a few years
since, containing a great number of small silver coins
of Edward I. of England and Alexander of Scotland ;
they were all in excellent preservation, and about the
size of a groat. On the farm of Polquhaise, a tumulus
was lately removed, in which was found a sarcophagus
of large stones, containing fragments of human bones
and a small quantity of black earth.
CUMNOCK, OLD, a manufacturing town and pa-
rish, in the district of Kyle, county of Ayr, 10| miles
(S. W.) from Muirkirk, and 61 (S. W. by W.) from Edin-
burgh ; containing 2836 inhabitants, of whom two-fifths
are in the town. This place derives its name from its
situation in the bosom of a hill, and its adjunct by way
of distinction from that part of it which, more than a
century since, was separated from it, and erected into a
separate parish. The town appears to owe its origin to
a charter granted to Sir Thomas Campbell, prebendary
of Cumnock, by James IV., making the church lands a
free burgh of barony, and empowering him and his suc-
cessors to let the glebe, in burgage tenure, for building.
The barony, after passing through several hands, came
ultimately, in the reign of Charles II., into the posses-
sion of the Earl of Dumfries, and is now the property
of the Marquess of Bute. The town is beautifully
situated in a deep recess, at the confluence of the rivers
Glasnock and Lugar, and consists chiefly of three streets,
and a spacious quadrangular area now the market-place,
the sides of which form ranges of good houses, and in
the centre of which is the church. The houses are
regularly built, with the exception of those in some
narrow lanes, which are of inferior order. The whole
has an air of cheerful neatness ; and, combined with
the interesting banks of the Lugar, and the rich wood-
lands immediately surrounding, it presents a pleasing
appearance. Gas-works have been recently constructed
for lighting the town ; and there are two public libraries
supported by subscription, each of which has an exten-
sive and well-selected number of volumes. A post-office
has also been established.
The manufacture of wooden snuff-boxes resembling
those originally made at Laurencekirk, is extensively
carried on here, and has been brought to a state of great
perfection. These boxes are made from the wood of the
plane-tree as being closest in its texture ; and at the
original prices paid for them, a solid foot of wood worth
C U MN
CU P A
three shillings, could be manufactured into boxes that
would sell for £100. From the great reduction in the
price since the extension of the manufacture, however,
they are sold for less than a tenth part of the original
value; and the painting of the boxes in devices has
been nearly superseded by the introduction of chequering,
which is performed in great variety by machinery, pro-
ducing brilliancy of colour and elegance of pattern. The
number of persons employed in this manufacture is about
fifty. Weaving is extensively carried on for the manu-
facturers of Glasgow and Paisley, and more than 120
looms are in constant operation ; a considerable number
of females, also, are employed in working and embroider-
ing muslins, which are much admired. There is a large
manufactory for threshing-mills and cheese-presses, of
which former some are sent to Ireland ; also a pottery
for brown earthenware, for which purpose clay of good
quality is found in the parish. Fairs are held on the
first and sixth Thursdays after Candlemas, the Wednes-
day after the last Tuesday in May and first Tuesday in
July, and the Wednesday after the third Tuesday in
October (O. S.) A baron-bailie is appointed to super-
intend the police of the town, by the Marquess of
Bute.
The parish is about ten miles in length, and two
in average breadth, and comprises 16,400 acres, of
which about 630 are woodland and plantations, 2500
moorland pasture, and the remainder arable. The sur-
face is pleasingly undulated, rising in some parts into
hills of gentle elevation ; and along the banks of the
Lugar are fine tracts of level ground. The whole of the
lands have an elevation of some hundred feet above the
sea, but they are finely sheltered by the still higher
lands of the district adjoining. The river Lugar, which
has its source in the eastern extremity of the parish, is
formed by the union of the streams of Glenmore and
Bella, and, after forming the northern boundary of the
parish, flows with a westerly course into the river Ayr.
The scenery near it is boldly varied ; in some parts the
banks are richly wooded, and in others the stream runs
between perpendicular ramparts of barren rock and
projecting crags. The river Glasnock issues from a
lake on the southern confines of the parish, and, after
flowing through the town, falls into the Lugar. The
lake abounds with trout, pike, and eels ; trout are found
also in the Lugar, and salmon were formerly frequently
taken in its waters, but, since the construction of a dam
on the river Ayr, none have ascended so high. The
soil is chiefly clayey, intermixed with portions of a
light and sandy quality, and occasionally a rich loam.
The chief crops are oats, with a little wheat, barley, and
bear, potatoes, peas, beans, and turnips ; the system of
agriculture is in an advanced state. A great, degree of
attention is paid to the management of the dairies, and
considerable quantities of cheese are made, and sent to
the neighbouring markets, where it is much esteemed.
About 1000 milch-cows, of the Ayrshire breed, are kept
on the several farms ; and the number of sheep, chiefly
of the black-faced kind, averages about 1200. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £9724.
The substrata are, limestone, coal, and freestone.
The limestone is of very superior quality ; and the lime,
which is distinguished by the appellation of Benston
lime, is in great demand for cement, and, from its pro-
perty of acquiring hardness when under water, is much
254
used in the erection of bridges. The freestone on the
banks of the Lugar has a light blue tint, and is sus-
ceptible of a very high polish ; and a white freestone is
also found, which is in repute for millstones, and sent
in great quantities for exportation. The coal is alter-
nated with strata of trap, but is on the whole of good
quality. The woods consist of oak, ash, elm, beech,
plane, lime, chesnut, and birch ; and the plantations, of
silver, spruce, and Scotch firs, poplar, mountain-ash,
holly, and evergreens of almost every variety. Many
of the trees are of stately growth, and all are in a
flourishing condition. Dumfries House, the seat of the
Marquess of Bute, is a very spacious and handsome
mansion, built of the blue freestone found in the parish,
and containing stately apartments ; the walls of the
drawing-room are hung with some fine old tapestry,
presented to one of the earls of Dumfries by Louis XIV.
of France. The house is beautifully situated on the
bank of the Lugar, which flows through the pleasure-
grounds, and over which an elegant bridge has been
erected near the mansion. Glasnock House, also situ-
ated on the bank of that stream, is an elegant mansion
of recent erection, and is built with the white freestone
found near the Lugar : Logan and Garrallan are like-
wise good houses. The parish is in the presbytery of
Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patron-
age of the Marquess of Bute. The minister's stipend is
£218, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per
annum. The church, erected in 1754, is adapted for
900 persons, but is much too small for the population :
the cemetery has been removed to a rising ground called
the Bar Hill, east of the town. There are places of
worship for members of the Free Church and United
Secession. The parochial school affords instruction to
about 130 scholars ; the master has a salary of £34,
with £15 fees, and a house and garden, and he also re-
ceives one-half of the interest of a bequest of £1000
by Mr. Duncan, for the gratuitous instruction of
twelve children. The other half of the interest is
distributed among poor persons not on the parish list.
There is a savings' bank with a fund of about £1000 ;
and three friendly societies are supported. Within the
grounds of Dumfries House are the ruins of the ancient
castle of Terringzean, anciently the residence of the
Loudon family ; and in the south side of the parish are
some slight ruins of Boreland Castle.
CUNNINGSBURGH, Shetland. — See Sandwich.
CUPAR, a burgh, mar-
ket-town, and parish, in the
district of Cupar, county of
I Fife ; including the villages
of Gladney and Springfield,
and containing 6758 inha-
bitants, of whom 3567 are
within the burgh, 9 miles
(W.) from St. Andrew's, and
30 (N. by E.) from Edin-
burgh. This place is of con-
siderable antiquity, and was
noted at an early period for
the strength of its castle, erected at the extremity of a
high mound extending along the bank of the Ladyburn
rivulet. During their invasion of Scotland in the reign
of Edward Baliol, this castle was taken by the English,
who retained possession of it till, having exhausted their
Seal and Arms.
C U P A
CUPA
provisions, and being unable to procure supplies, they
were compelled to abandon it, and to return to their
own country. There are no remains of the castle, but
the site of it is still called Castle Hill. Under this hill
was a Dominican convent, of which the founder is not
known, and which, after subsisting for a long time as a
cell to the monastery of that order on the island of
May, was granted to the abbey of St. Andrew's. No
vestiges of the building remain, and the site is now
occupied by an episcopal chapel. Few events of histo-
rical importance are recorded in connexion with the
place : the town was erected into a royal burgh by
David II., in 1363, and in the Magna Britannia is desig-
nated by Camden the Burgas Insignia, which character
it still retains as the county town.
The town is situated on the high road from Edin-
burgh, through Fife, to Dundee, and at the confluence
of the rivers Eden and Ladyburn, over the former of
which are three handsome bridges, facilitating the in-
tercourse between the north and south portions. From
its situation, it is the great thoroughfare between the
ferries of the Forth and the Tay, and consequently, in ad-
dition to its trade and well-frequented markets, derives
much traffic from the frequent influx of strangers. It
is well built, and consists of several principal streets, of
which some are of recent formation, originating in the
modern improvements of the town, and of several smaller
streets ; they are cleansed, paved, and watched from the
common funds of the corporation, and lighted with gas
by assessment of the inhabitants. It has been con-
siderably enlarged by the addition of the suburbs of
Brae-Heads, Newtown, and Lebanon ; and the whole
has a cheerful and very respectable appearance. A
public library has long been established, and is sup-
ported by subscription ; it contains more than 6000
well-chosen volumes, among which are many scarce and
valuable books selected by Dr. Gray, who bequeathed
his library to the subscribers. There is also a pub-
lic reading-room, well supplied with periodicals. A
pack of fox-hounds for the Fifeshire hunt is kept here,
as the chief place of the meeting of its members; the
environs are pleasant, and afford much interest to the
sportsman. The principal manufacture is that of linen,
which gives employment to about 900 persons in the
town and parish, who work with hand-looms at their
own dwellings. The linen made is of various qualities,
and is mostly exported to the East and West Indies, to
the continent, and to America. Connected with this
manufacture are three mills in the parish, two of which
are for spinning flax, and one for thread. Of the former,
one is set in motion by water, and the other partly by
water and partly by steam, and the third entirely by
steam ; they employ in the aggregate nearly 240 per-
sons. There are two mills for grinding oatmeal and
barley, and two flour-mills, all of which were held under
the corporation until recently, when the feu duty was
sold. The manufacture of snuff was formerly carried
on to a considerable extent, for which purpose a mill
was erected producing 60,000 pounds annually ; and
from the increasing demand for that article at one
time, it was found requisite to add power to the mill
by the erection of a steam-engine. There are also a
fulling-mill and two tanneries in constant use, to the
latter of which has been added a manufacture of glue ;
three public breweries have been established, and there
255
is an extensive manufactory of coarse earthenware, for
which the clay found in the parish is well adapted, and
also for bricks and tiles, of which great numbers are
made. The market is on Thursday, and is largely sup-
plied with samples of corn, and numerously attended
by dealers from the neighbouring districts ; fairs are
also held, for the sale of live stock, agricultural imple-
ments, and various other articles.
The inhabitants received their first charter of incor-
poration from David II. It bestowed many privileges,
which were extended by Robert II., who also granted
the burgesses considerable property in lands ; and all
these gifts were confirmed by subsequent charters down
to the reign of James VI., who conferred upon the bur-
gesses additional immunities, and the lands of the burgh
at a fee-farm rent, by charter dated at Edinburgh in
1595. By these charters the government was vested in a
provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, treasurer, and a
council of thirteen, a convener, and seven deacons of
trades, assisted by a town-clerk, and other officers ;
but the town council, composed of twenty-six members,
is now elected in strict accordance with the provi-
sions of the Municipal act of 1833. The provost
and bailies, and all other officers, are chosen by the
council ; the town-clerk alone holds office for life.
There are eight guilds of trade, the hammermen, wrights,
weavers, tailors, shoemakers, waulkers, bakers, and
butchers, who hold their exclusive privileges under a
modifying charter of Queen Anne ; each of these guilds
elects its own deacon, and the deacons make one of
their number convener, to preside over all the guilds.
The freedom is inherited by patrimony, by marriage
with a freeman's daughter, by apprenticeship, or by
purchase, the amount of which varies in the different
guilds from £20 to £50. The magistrates hold burgh
courts for the determination of pleas to any amount,
but the sheriff's courts for small debts have nearly
superseded the practice, and their criminal jurisdiction,
also, though by charter extending to all offences not
capital, is by custom limited to misdemeanours and
cases of petty assaults, all graver offences being referred
to the county magistrates. By the act of the 2nd and
3rd of William IV., the burgh unites with those of St.
Andrew's, Crail, the two Anstruthers, Kilrenny, and
Pittenweem, in returning a member to the imperial par-
liament. The right of election is vested in the house-
holders of the annual value of £10 and upwards, resi-
dent within the limits of the parliamentary boundary,
which is more extensive than the municipal : St. Andrew's
is the returning burgh. The assizes for the county,
and the election of members for the county, are held
here. The town-hall and county-hall are both neat and
substantial buildings, well adapted to their respective
uses, but not distinguished by architectural elegance.
The latter is very spacious, and contains the requisite
court-rooms for the sheriff and justices, a large room
for holding county meetings, and also an office for keep-
ing the public records ; in the hall are, a portrait of the
late General John, Earl of Hopetoun, finely painted by
Raeburn, and one of Thomas, Earl of Kellie, lord lieute-
nant of the county, by Wilkie. The old town and county
gaol, situated on the opposite side of the river Eden,
was badly arranged, and has been superseded by a large
county prison built to the north-east of the town, under
the Prison act of the year 1839.
CU P A
C U P A
In 1618, the parish of Cupar was augmented by the
union of that of Tarvit on the opposite bank of the Eden.
At present it extends five miles in length, and nearly
the same in breadth ; it comprises 5545 acres, all of
which, with the exception of a moderate proportion of
woodland and pasture, are arable land in the highest
state of cultivation. The surface is in some parts gently
undulating, in others rising into hills of moderate eleva-
tion, and near the banks of the rivers by which it is
intersected, forming extended plains ; the scenery is
enriched with woods of natural growth and thriving
plantations. The river Eden, which rises in West
Lomond, about fifteen miles distant, flows through the
parish from west to east, in the centre of a broad and
fertile vale ; and the Ladyburn, which intersects the
parish from north-west to south-east, flows into the
Eden at the eastern extremity of the town. The soil is
various, in some parts a light sand, in others a stiff clay,
and in the valleys rich and fertile ; but even the poorer
soils are rendered abundantly productive by diligent
cultivation and a liberal use of manure, which is plenti-
ful. The system of husbandry is in the most improved
state ; the crops are, oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, of
which great quantities are grown for the London mar-
ket, and turnips, with the usual green crops. Great
attention is also paid to the rearing of live stock. The
oxen are mostly of the old Fifeshire breed, and, in
the great cattle-shows, have generally obtained prizes
awarded by the agricultural societies ; some of the Tees-
water breed have been introduced, but they are not
generally approved. The substratum of the soil is
various. White sandstone is prevalent along the banks
of the Eden; on those of the Ladyburn, a conglomerate
sandstone is found, in which are imbedded quartz and
flint; and at a short distance from the confluence of
those streams, is an extensive mound consisting of
gravel. Greenstone, trap-rock, and clinkstone are like-
wise found, above the gravel and sandstone along the
banks of the Eden, and are quarried, together with the
white sandstone, for road-making and for building. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £18,715. The
ancient mansion of Carslogie, for many ages the family
seat of the Clephanes, was erected about 400 years since,
and is, with the grounds, still kept up ; Wemyss Hall
was built about the commencement of the last century,
and has been recently enlarged. Kilmaron is a modern
mansion in the castellated style, aftera design by Gillespie.
Tarvit, Springfield, Dalyell, Hilton, Carnie Lodge, Pit-
blado, Preston Hall, Middlefield, Balas, Ferrybank, Bell-
field, Blalowne, and Westfield, are also within the parish,
and are neat residences, pleasantly situated.
The parish is in the presbytery of Cupar and synod of
Fife, and patronage of the Crown. There are two bene-
fices ; the minister of the first charge has a stipend of
£259, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £21 per
annum ; the minister of the second charge has the same
amount, but neither manse nor glebe. The church was
erected in 1785, and has been altered and enlarged from
time to time ; and another church, called St. Michael's,
has lately been built, at an expense of about £1800,
partly raised by transferable shares, which entitle each
subscriber to the choice of a seat. There is an episcopal
chapel, a very handsome building ; also places of worship
for members of the Free Church, the Relief Connexion,
Old Light Burghers, Baptists, and Glasites. The
256
grammar and English schools, formerly supported by
the burgh, have been discontinued, and an academy, for
which an appropriate building has been erected on the
Castle Hill, has been substituted in their place, the pa-
tronage and management being vested in the trustees
of the late eminent Dr. Andrew Bell, of Madras, who
bequeathed some property called Eggmore, in Dum-
friesshire, and between £400 and £500 per annum,
for the purposes of education in the town. The late
Dr. Gray, of Middlesex, bequeathed £500 for the esta-
blishment of a female school here, the management of
which is vested in the provost, clergy, and schoolmaster
of Cupar. An almshouse for ten or twelve poor per-
sons is under the management of the Kirk Session ; it is
of very ancient date, and the origin of its foundation is
not distinctly known. There is also an asylum for
females above fifty years of age, recently erected by a
legacy of £3000 bequeathed by David Knox, Esq., of Lon-
don, for its foundation and endowment. The poor like-
wise have the interest of £450 by Dr. Gray for their
benefit. On the bank of the Eden, on the Tarvit side
of that river, is a small conical eminence, anciently the
site of the church of St. Michael of that parish, which
had long ceased to exist previously to the union of Cupar
and Tarvit ; and in making some improvements in the
road near the spot, many of the graves were thrown open,
and the remains of the dead exposed to view. Upon the
summit of a hill near Wemyss Hall, are the remains of
the cross of Cupar, which, on its removal from its an-
cient site in the town, in order to the formation of a new
street, was set up in its present situation by the late
Col. Wemyss. It consists of a circular shaft, placed on a
massive pedestal hewn from the rock on which it stands ;
and above the capital are placed the ancient arms of the
town.
CUPAR-ANGUS, or Coupar- Angus, a market-town
and parish, partly in the county of Forfar, but chiefly
in that of Perth ; including the villages of Balbrogie,
Longleys, and Washington, and containing 2745 in-
habitants, of whom 1868 are in the town, 12 miles (N.
N. E.) from Perth, and 55^ (N.) from Edinburgh. This
place derives the aHix distinguishing its name from that
of Cupar in Fifeshire, from the more ancient part of the
town, which is within the county of Forfar or Angus.
An abbey of Cistercian monks was founded here in 1164,
by Malcolm IV., who amply endowed it with lands in this
parish, and various other estates in different parts of the
country. Among its possessions here were, Cupar grange,
the home-farm of the monastery, where the abbot had
a country residence, and the lands of Keithick, Arthur-
stone, Denhead, Balgersho, and Cronan. The endowment
was augmented by the Hayes, of Errol, and other bene-
factors ; and the establishment continued to flourish till
the dissolution, when its revenue was valued at £1239
in money, and large payments in wheat, oats, barley, and
other produce. The last abbot was Donald Campbell, of
the Argyll family, who, with the commendator,was buried
in Bendochy church. The buildings had begun to fall
into a state of dilapidation some few years before the
Reformation, and their ruin was completed by a body of
reformers from Perth. The only vestiges now remaining
of this once magnificent structure are in the north-west
angle of the present churchyard, on the side of the road
to Dundee. A portion of the building with a beautiful
arch was taken down in 1780, to furnish materials for
CUPA
C U R R
the erection of the parish church, of which the north
wall rests upon part of the foundation of the ancient
edifice. The lands belonging to the monastery were
erected, after its dissolution, into a temporal lordship
by James VI., and granted to the Hon. James Elphin-
ston, second son of Lord Balmerino, who was created
Lord Coupar in 1609. On his decease without issue the
title and estates merged in the Balmerino family, and,
on the attainder of Arthur, Lord Balmerino, in 1745,
became forfeited to the crown.
The town, which was an ancient burgh of regality, is
pleasantly situated on the banks of a stream that flow's
into the river Isla, about three miles to the west of it ;
and consists principally of four streets, formed by the
lines of the Perth and Dundee high roads, which inter-
sect each other in the market-place. The houses are
generally neat and well built, and some, of more recent
erection, are of elegant appearance ; the streets are paved,
and lighted with gas by a company established within
the last few years, and the inhabitants are amply supplied
with water. A public news and reading room, weil
furnished with the London and provincial journals, is
supported by subscription ; and an agricultural society
formed about twenty years since, for awarding premiums
to the best breeders and feeders of cattle, hold their
meetings here twice every year. The post-office has a
good delivery, and facility of communication with Perth
and Dundee, and other towns in the vicinity, is afforded
by excellent roads, and by the Cupar-Angus and Newtyle
branch of the Dundee railway. The principal manufac-
ture pursued is the hand-loom weaving of the coarser
kinds of linen for the wholesale houses in the neighbour-
hood ; there is also a tannery in operation. A salmon-
fishery is carried on in the river Isla, which likewise
abounds with trout. The market is on Thursday, and
fairs are held on the third Thursday in March, for horses
and cattle ; on the 26th of May, if on Thursday, other-
wise on the first Thursday after, for cattle and sheep, and
for hiring servants ; on the third Wednesday in July, and
the first Tuesday in October, for horses, sheep, and cattle ;
and on the 22nd of November, if on Thursday, or on the
first Thursday after, for cattle and for hiring servants.
Cattle-markets are also held on the first Thursday in
December, and every succeeding Thursday till May. The
Steeple was erected by subscription in I767, on the site of
the ancient prison of the burgh of regality, and the lower
part of it is used as a place of temporary confinement.
The parish is bounded on the north by the river Isla,
and is intersected by the great north road through the
vale of Strathmore; it is about five miles in length, and
from one mile and a half to two miles and a half in
breadth, comprising 2S00 acres. The surface is varied ;
and from a high ridge which intersects the parish, is
obtained a splendid view of the Sidlaw mountains on the
south, the lower range of the Grampians on the north,
with the distant summits of Ben-More, Sehihallion, and
Ben-Voirlich. The soil is various ; in some parts a rich
alluvial loam ; in others a stiff retentive clay, alternated
with sand and gravel, and with peat-moss. The system
of agriculture is improved, and the rotation plan of hus-
bandry is in general use ; the chief crops are, wheat,
oats, barley, and turnips. The lands have been well
drained, and much of inferior quality has been brought
into profitable cultivation ; the buildings on the larger
farms are substantial and commodious, but on the
Vol. I.— 257
smaller of a very inferior description. The cattle, gene-
rally of a mixed breed, have been much improved under
the encouragement afforded by the agricultural society.
The rateable annual value of the Perthshire portion of
the parish is £9324, and of the Angus portion £591,
making a total of £9915. Keithick and Arthurstone
are handsome residences. There were formerly popu-
lous villages at Keithick and Caddam, but both have
disappeared. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Meigle and synod
of Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend is £239,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £25 per annum ;
patron, the Crown. The church, a plain structure, was
built in the year 17S0, and enlarged in 1832, and contains
800 sittings. There are places of worship for members
of the Free Church and United Associate Synod, Original
Seceders, the Relief Church, and Episcopalians. The
parochial school is well attended ; the master has a
salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees
average above £70. A savings' bank was opened in 1839,
and has deposits to the amount of £2600 ; there are also
two friendly societies, and a ladies' society for visiting
and assisting indigent and aged women. To the east of
the churchyard are the remains of a Roman camp, sup-
posed to have been that of Lollius Urbicus, and within
the area of which the abbey was founded.
CURRIE, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh,
6 miles (S. W.) from Edinburgh ; containing, with the
villages of Balerno and Hermiston, 2000 inhabitants, of
whom 297 are in the village of Currie. This place,
called anciently Kil-Leith, from a religious establish-
ment on the Water of Leith, is supposed to have de-
rived its more general appellation from the remains of
the Roman station Coria, which some antiquaries have
identified with the immediate vicinity. The lands ap-
pear to have been the property of the Lennox family, of
whose baronial residence, Lennox Tower, there are still
considerable remains on an elevated situation on the
bank of the river, commanding a fine view of the Frith
of Forth. This castle, which was the occasional resi-
dence of Mary, Queen of Scots, and afterwards of the
regent Morton, was a place of great strength, sur-
rounded by a rampart, and inaccessible on all sides. A
subterraneous passage afforded communication with the
river, and has but recently been closed, to protect the
cattle that graze on its site.
The parish is skirted on the south by the Pentland
hills, and is about six miles in mean length, though its
extreme points from east to west are eight miles distant.
It is four miles in average breadth, and comprises an
area of 11,000 acres, of which two-thirds are arable,
and the remainder hill pasture and moss. The surface
is generally elevated, and broken into numerous hills,
of which Ravelrig, nearly in the centre of the parish, is
S00 feet above the sea. There are also Currie hill and
various others, of which some rise to a still greater
height. The lower grounds are watered by the river of
Leith, which has its source in three copious springs
near the western extremity of the parish, and, after a
course of fourteen miles, in which it turns numerous
mills, flows into the Frith of Forth at the harbour of
Leith. The soil is mostly a stiff retentive clay, and,
though difficult to work, is fertile, producing favourable
crops of grain of all kinds, notwithstanding that the
harvests are usually late. The system of husbandry is
2 L
CUTH
CYRU
in a very improved state ; the lands are inclosed, and
the farm-buildings substantial and commodious. Con-
siderable numbers of black- cattle are reared in the pas-
tures, and sent to Edinburgh ; and during the spring
and summer months, many sheep are purchased by the
farmers, and fattened for the neighbouring markets.
The rateable annual value of the parish is returned
at £12,164.
The principal substrata are limestone and freestone of
excellent quality ; and along the banks of the river, iron-
stone is found in abundance. The limestone is not
wrought for manure, from the want of coal ; but near
the village of Balerno are extensive quarries of free-
stone, from which materials have been taken for many
of the buildings of the New Town of Edinburgh. In the
lower parts of the parish, towards the north, are consi-
derable remains of ancient woods ; but on the higher
lands, except on the demesnes of the landed proprietors,
there are very few plantations. The seats are, Baberton,
Ravelrig, Glen-Darroch, Glen-Brook, Riccarton, Currie
Hill, Larch Grove, Bankhead, West Brook, and Malleny.
The village of Currie is situated on the banks of the
Water of Leith, and on the road to Lanark. The manu-
facture of paper was introduced here about the year
1790, by Messrs. Nisbet and Macniven, who erected
extensive mills for that purpose ; and there are also
numerous corn and other mills in the parish. Facilities
of communication are afforded by the roads to Lanark
and Glasgow, and by the Union canal, which passes
through a small portion of the parish.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the super-
intendence of the presbytery of Edinburgh and synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is
£264, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £16 per
annum ; patrons, the Town Council of Edinburgh.
The church, a neat structure erected about the year
1790, is situated on an eminence on the south bank of
the river ; and its spire, rising above the foliage around,
forms a pleasing feature in the scenery of the village.
There is a place of worship for members of the United
Secession Church. The parochial school is well at-
tended ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house
and garden, and the fees average £42. Opposite to
Lennox Tower, on the other side of the river, are the
ruins of the ancient mansion of the Skenes, of Currie
Hill ; and on the summit of Ravelrig, are some remains
of a Roman exploratory camp. Among the distin-
guished persons connected with the parish have been,
Sir George Skene, lord registrar in the reign of James
VI., and his son, Sir James, president of the court of
session ; Sir Thomas Craig, lord advocate in that reign ;
and the Scotts of Malleny, eminent lawyers of the same
period. Sir Archibald Johnston of Warriston, uncle
of Bishop Burnet, and whose son was envoy to Bran-
denburgh in the reigns of King William and Queen
Anne, was a large landholder in the parish.
CUSHNIE, Aberdeen. — See Leochel.
CUTHBERT'S, ST.— See Edinburgh.
CUTHILL, or Cuttle, a village, in the parish of
Prestonpans, county of Haddington ; containing 172
inhabitants. This place is on the shore of the Frith of
Forth, and in the western part of the parish, adjoining
the village of Prestonpans. Some salt-works, a pottery,
and a magnesia manufactory were formerly carried on
here.
258
CYRUS, SAINT, or Ecclescraig, a parish, in the
county of Kincardine ; including the villages of Loch-
side, Milton, Roadside, and Tangleha, and containing
1 600 inhabitants, of whom 207 are in the village of St.
Cyrus, 5| miles (N. by E.) from Montrose. This place,
now generally known by the former of the two names,
is supposed to have derived the latter, in the Gaelic
language Eaglais-Creag, from the situation of its church
at the base of a rocky promontory projecting into the
North Sea. The name of St. Cyrus, which, till the close
of the last century, was limited to a portion only of the
parish, is derived from a saint who lived in retirement
on the adjacent lands of Criggie, where there is a well
still called after him. At an early period, this place was
distinguished for a castle named the Fortress of Lauris-
ton, near the eastern boundary of the parish. It was
erected about the 10th century, and, in the reign of
Edward III. of England, sustained repeated assaults
from the troops of that monarch, by whom, in 1336, it
was taken and garrisoned with English soldiers ; but
towards the close of that year it was recaptured by the
regent Murray, and dismantled. The castle, and the
lands belonging to it, were, for more than four centuries,
in the possession of the Straton family, but in 1695
were sold to Sir John Falconer. From his descendants
they were, about the year 1789, purchased by Mr.
Brand, who incorporated the remains of the ancient
building, consisting of a square tower and a portion of
the chapel, into a spacious modern mansion.
The parish, which is bounded on the south-east by
the sea, and on the south and south-west by the North
Esk river, is about five miles in length, and from two
and a half to three in breadth. It contains S477 acres,
of which 6234 are arable, 300 woods and plantations,
and the remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. The
surface is diversified with hills, of which the principal
are, Bridgeton and Jackston, in the east, and Morphy
and Pitbeadly in the west, averaging about 500 feet in
height, and Brands hill and Woodston hill, having an
elevation of 630 feet above the sea. These hills are in-
tersected with deep valleys and narrow glens, watered
by various rivulets, one of which, in its progress towards
the sea, forms a picturesque cascade. The coast, which
is indented with several small bays, is a level beach of
fine sand for about a mile from the mouth of the North
Esk, beyond which it is lined by precipitous cliffs of
limestone, worn by the action of the waves into caverns
of fanciful appearance. In the vicinity of Milton-
Mathers, where lime- works had been long established,
the quarrymen had so undermined the elevated ledge
which defended that part of the coast, that, in 1795,
the whole of the village was swept away by an irruption
of the sea, which has now encroached for 150 yards
upon the land.
The soil is generally a rich and fertile clay, well
adapted for grain of every kind ; the crops are, oats,
barley, wheat, beans, peas, turnips, and potatoes, of
which last great quantities are raised. The system of
agriculture is improved ; the dairy-farms are productive,
and a kind of sweet-milk cheese is made, which is in
high estimation. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £14,034. The woods mainly consist of ash,
plane, elm, beech, and birch, and the plantations of
larch and Scotch and silver firs ; they are well ma-
naged, and are for the most part thriving. A great
C Y R U
D A I L
variety of other trees have been planted on the lands of
Lauriston with entire success. The prevailing rocks in
the parish are of the old red sandstone and trap forma-
tion. There are quarries of a durable white sandstone,
used chiefly for ornamental building, on the lands of
Kirkside; and at Woodston and Lauriston, sandstone
which is easily wrought, and very durable, is extensively
quarried, yielding a return of £1000 per annum. Tile-
stones were formerly obtained at Morphy, for roofing ;
but, from their insufficiency to resist the influence of
the atmosphere, the use of them has been discontinued.
Lime-works were also once carried on, to a great ex-
tent ; and at Sea-Greens, on the coast, in the immediate
vicinity of the works, is a small harbour accessible to
boats of 50 or 60 tons' burthen, by which the produce of
the works was conveyed to its destination. Among the
seats in the parish is Lauriston, a handsome mansion
erected by the late proprietor, and including portions of
the ancient castle ; it is romantically situated on the
verge of a precipitous height rising from a deep and
richly-wooded dell. Mount Cyrus stands on an emi-
nence to the north-west of the village, with beautiful
lawns and extensive plantations ; and Kirkside House,
a substantial modern mansion, is near the southern ex-
tremity of the parish, in grounds tastefully laid out, and
commanding some fine views of the bay and town of
Montrose. Bridgeton is also pleasantly situated, on
rising ground near the eastern extremity of the parish.
The manufacture of coarse linen is carried on, affording
employment to about thirty persons. There are some
valuable salmon-fisheries, together producing a rental
of nearly £3000 per annum, and giving occupation to
about sixty persons; the greater number of fish are
packed in ice, and conveyed to the Edinburgh and
London markets. Facility of communication is afforded
by good roads, of which the great north road passes
through the parish, and has on its line two handsome
bridges, one built in 1775, at au expense of £6000, and
the other in 1S1*, at a cost of £600.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Fordoun and synod of
Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend is £247. 17-,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £1 1 per annum ;
patron, the Crown. The church, erected in 1783, on a
site nearly a mile to the north of the ancient church,
and enlarged in 1S30, is a neat substantial structure
with a spire, and contains about S50 sittings. From
its situation on an eminence 250 feet above the level of
the sea, it forms a conspicuous landmark for mariners.
There is a place of worship for members of the Free
Church. The parochial school is well attended ; the
master has a salary of £33, with a good house and
garden, and the fees average £30. The parochial library
contains nearly 750 volumes, chiefly on religious sub-
jects. Sir Joseph Straton, of Kirkside, bequeathed
£500 for promoting education within the parish, the
proceeds of which sum are applied to the payment of
school fees for the children of the poor. Among the
relics of antiquity is the Kaim of Mathers, a camp on
those lands, situated on a rocky peninsula connected
with the main land by a narrow isthmus, defended by
battlements on each side : on the peninsula are the
remains of a square tower, said to have been the resi-
dence of the ancestors of the Barclays of Ury. The
castle of Morphy, supposed to have been the baronial
'259
seat of the Graham family, has totally disappeared, and
the site has been effaced by the plough. On the lands,
however, is still an upright stone, erected, according to
tradition, to commemorate the defeat of the Danes in
a battle that took place near the spot ; it has the form
of an obelisk, about thirteen feet in height, and the
number of stone coffins containing human bones which
have been found in an adjoining field, strengthens the
probability of its supposed origin. On the hill of Pit-
beadly are some remains of a circular camp.
D
DAILLY, a parish, in the district of Carrick,
county of Ayr, 6 miles (S. by W.) from Maybole ; con-
taining 2272 inhabitants, of whom 591 are in the vil-
lage. The parish is about seven miles in length, from
east to west, and varies from four to six miles in breadth.
The surface is chiefly one extended valley, bounded on
both sides by hills of moderate elevation, and enlivened
by natural woods and thriving plantations ; and the
prospect from the hills, including the winding course of
the Girvan for nearly seven miles, in a direction parallel
with the boundary of the parish, together with the fine
demesnes along its banks, is extremely picturesque.
The soil near the river is light, but very productive.
On the south side of the valley it is incumbent on a
bed of gravel, and is peculiarly favourable for pasture ;
on the north side it is intermixed with clay. The whole
number of acres is estimated at 17,000, of which about
9000 are arable, 2500 woods and plantations, and the
remainder pasture and moorland, of which not more
than about 300 appear capable of being brought into
cultivation. The crops are. wheat, oats, barley, pota-
toes, and turnips ; the system of agriculture is greatly
improved, and much of the moorland has been re-
claimed. Great attention is paid to live stock ; the
cattle are of the Ayrshire breed, with a few of the
Galloway, and some crosses between the Ayrshire and
Teeswater breeds. The sheep are of three varieties,
the black-faced, the Cheviot, and a cross between these
two breeds. Embanking has been practised with great
success : to prevent the inundation to which the lands
were subject from the river Girvan, and to shorten its
course, a new channel of about 210 yards in length was
some time since formed, and on both sides of it a double
embankment was raised. The woods consist of oak,
ash, plane, elm, and birch, and the plantations are
principally Scotch, larch, and spruce firs ; they are well
managed, and in a very thriving state. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £10,695.
The substrata are chiefly coal, limestone, and free-
stone. The coal occurs in a large tract of elliptic form,
about six miles in length, and 600 yards in breadth,
forming part of the great coalfield extending from Edin-
burgh into the county of Ayr. It is of excellent quality ;
the quantity annually raised averages about 20,000
tons, and a great portion of it is shipped for the coast
of Ireland. The limestone, which is also of good quality,
is extensively quarried at Craighead, on the Bargany
estate, and at Blair hill, on the lands of Kilkerran ; the
quantity annually produced is 100,000 bolls. The free-
stone is found in numerous places, but the most valu-
2 L 2
D A I II
D A L B
able occurs on the bases of the hills south of the coal
basin, on the estate of Kilkerran, and the whitest and
most compact lies near the centre of that tract. The
materials for the building of the mansions of Kilkerran
and Dalquharran, in this parish, and of Blairquhan, in
the parish of Straiton, were raised from the freestone
quarries here. Kilkerran and Dalquharran are hand-
some houses, pleasantly situated in demesnes richly
embellished with plantations ; the grounds of Bargany
and Killochen are also fine. The village has been
greatly enlarged and improved within the last few
years ; the new parts of it are regularly built, and the
houses of neat appearance. It has a post-office under
that of Maybole. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Ayr and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. The stipend of the incumbent is
£348 ; the manse, built in 1801, is a comfortable resi-
dence, and the glebe comprises seven acres of land,
valued at £15. 10. per annum. The church, which is
in the village, is a substantial edifice erected in 1"66,
and adapted for 600 persons. The members of the Free
Church have a place of worship. The parochial school,
which is also a grammar school, is well conducted ; the
master has a salary of £30, with a house and garden,
and the fees average £25. A parochial library has been
established, and is supported by subscription ; it has
nearly 200 volumes, chiefly on religious subjects. At
Machry-Kill was formerly a small church or chapel
dedicated to St. Macarius, from which circumstance
that place took its name ; and at the extremity of a
wild and romantic dell near Kilkerran, abounding with
picturesque features, was a chapel dedicated to the
Virgin, from which the place still retains the appella-
tion of the Lady-Glen. At the western extremity of
the ridge of hills that intersects the parish, are the
remains of an ancient encampment of oval form, about
100 yards in length, and sixty-five in breadth at the
centre ; it is surrounded by a double intrenchment, of
which the inner rampart is the more entire. It com-
mands a most extensive view, and is supposed to have
been connected with the history of Robert Bruce.
DAIRSIE, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county
of Fife, 2 miles (E. N. E.) from Cupar ; containing,
with the village of Osnaburgh, or Dairsie-Muir, 669
inhabitants. This place is of some antiquity, and ap-
pears to have belonged to the see of St. Andrew's till
the year 1520, when it was granted, by charter of
Archbishop Foreman, to the family of Learmonth of
Clatto, in whose possession it remained till the year
1616. It then became the property of Archbishop
Spottiswood, from whose descendant, Sir John Spot-
tiswood, it was conveyed to Sir George Morrison, Knt. ;
and it was subsequently purchased by Thomas, Earl of
Kincardine. The estate was sold by the earl, in 1772,
to General Scott, of Balcomy, whose daughter con-
veyed it by marriage to the Duke of Portland, by
whom it was afterwards disposed of; and it is now
divided among several proprietors. Dairsie Castle, the
residence of Archbishop Spottiswood, and in which it
is said he wrote his History of the Church of Scotland,
though now a ruin, is in good preservation ; it is situ-
ated on an eminence near the banks of the river Eden,
and has an air of venerable antiquity. It was selected
as a place of security and retirement, during the minority
of David II., by the regents of Scotland.
260
The parish, which is bounded on the south and
south-east by the Eden, is of irregular form, nearly
three miles in length, and of almost equal breadth,
comprising 2300 acres, of which, except about fifty
acres in woodland and plantations, the whole is arable.
The surface rises gently to a considerable elevation,
and, towards the centre, into two conspicuous hills
called respectively Foodie and Craigfoodie, of which
the latter is 500 feet above the sea. Both these hills
are cultivated to their summit; and Foodie, which is
the less elevated, is crowned with plantations. The
river, over which is a handsome bridge of three arches,
erected by Archbishop Spottiswood, abounds with sal-
mon and trout ; and the Middlefoodie burn, a fine trout-
stream, also intersects the parish, and flows into the
Eden. The soil is mostly fertile, and in many parts of
great depth ; the system of agriculture is excellent ;
the crops are, wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips,
with the various grasses, and the crops generally are
favourable. The substrata are chiefly whinstone and
freestone ; the former is quarried on the hill of Foodie,
and the latter is found in abundance on the lands near
the river. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£4752.
The principal mansion-houses are, Craigfoodie, Pitor-
mie, and New-Mill, all modern buildings. Woodend
Cottage, a small but handsome residence, surrounded
with wood, was occupied for some time by Lord William
Russell, who was inhumanly murdered in London by
his valet Courvoisier. The manufacture of dowlas is
carried on under the direction of Mr. Inglis, in whose
establishment about thirty-five persons are engaged ;
and there are two mills for the spinning of flax, one
belonging to Mr. Annan, in which 5200 spindles, and
one to Mr. Michael Smith, in which 31,250 spindles,
are employed. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Cupar and synod
of Fife. The minister's stipend is £250. 19., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £11 per annum ; patron,
Captain Mc Donald. The church, situated near the
remains of the old castle, was erected by Archbishop
Spottiswood, about the year 1621, and was originally an
elegant structure in the later English style, of which it
was one of the most beautiful specimens in the country.
It underwent much mutilation, however, in the time of
the Covenanters, who, in their zeal for the demolition
of idolatrous monuments, in 1645 destroyed most of its
richest details. The members of the Free Church have
a place of worship. The parochial school is attended
by about sixty children ; the master has a salary of £34,
with a house and garden, and the fees average £25 per
annum.
DALAROSSIE, Inverness.— See Moy.
DALAVICH, Argyll. — See Kilchrenan.
DALBEATTIE, a village, in the parish of Urr,
stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 3| miles (S. E.) from
Castle-Douglas ; containing 1430 inhabitants. This
place is of modern erection, and is built on the estates of
the Copland and Maxwell families. It is seated on both
sides of the Dalbeattie burn, and is admirably situated
for trade, the river Urr being navigable so far from the
Solway Frith for small vessels, and the burn, which is a
considerable stream, being well adapted for driving
machinery. The manufacture of paper is carried on.
A large portion of the population is Irish, for whose
D A LG
D A L H
labour, in the present state of the district, there is not
a sufficient demand, and hence much poverty exists
among them. A post-office is established under Castle-
Douglas. There is a place of worship in connexion
with the Free Church ; and a Roman Catholic chapel
was built here about thirty years since.
DALCROSS, Nairn and Inverness. — See Croy.
DALGARVAN, a village, in the parish of Kilwin-
ning, district of Cunninghame, county of Ayr, 1|
mile (N. by W.) from Kilwinning ; containing 107 inha-
bitants. It is situated on the road from Irvine to
Dairy, and on the west side of the Garnock river, which
runs here in a direction nearly from north to south.
DALGETY, a parish, in the district of Dunferm-
line, county of Fife, 2 miles (W. S. W.) from Aber-
dour ; containing, with the villages of St. David and
Fordel-Square, and part of the villages of Crossgates
and Hillend, 1265 inhabitants. This place, which is on
the Frith of Forth, appears to have been indebted for its
growth and importance to its situation in the heart of a
district abounding in mineral wealth, and to the facili-
ties it possessed of exporting the produce, from its prox-
imity to the sea. The abundance and superior quality
of the coal in the parish seem to have attracted atten-
tion at a very early period, and the mines are supposed
to have been worked for nearly three centuries : none,
however, are at present in operation. The parish is
about five miles in length, and in some parts not more
than one mile in breadth. The surface slopes gently
from the Frith towards the more inland parts, where it
attains an elevation of nearly 440 feet above the sea ;
and the higher grounds command an extensive and in-
teresting view over the opposite shores of the Frith.
The scenery is enlivened by the loch of Otterston, about
three-quarters of a mile in length, and a quarter of a
mile in breadth, the shores of which, enriched with
plantations and with natural wood, and having a pleas-
ing alternation of hill and valley, form a very pic-
turesque and varied landscape. A rivulet descending
from the higher grounds flows through a deep wooded
dell, and, meeting with the stream of water from the
drainage of the collieries at Fordel, is precipitated in
its course from a rock, forming a strikingly romantic
fall of nearly fifty feet.
The soil, especially in the southern part of the parish,
is a deep black loam, mixed with clay; in the higher
grounds, lighter ; and in some of the lower, wet and
swampy, with moss and heath. From the abundance
of lime, however, the lands are in general fertile, and
the system of agriculture is in a very advanced condi-
tion ; draining has been carried on successfully, and
the wet lands in the northern part have been greatly
improved. The chief crops are, oats, barley, potatoes,
and turnips ; but there is little more than 1000 acres
under cultivation, and about 240 in wood and planta-
tions. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£10,5*3. The substratum mainly consists of secondary
rock ; and sandstone, whinstone, bituminous shale,
limestone, and coal are abundant. The sandstone is
found in various parts, but of better quality in the
southern portion of the parish ; the limestone lies
under the strata of coal, about fifty fathoms below the
surface, and the coal, of which the beds are very exten-
sive, are in many places intersected with dykes of sand-
stone, interspersed with limestone and quartz. The
261
principal coal-works are on the estate of Fordel, and
were in operation at a very early period, though not car-
ried on to any great extent till within the last forty years.
The quantity of coal raised annually at these works was
about 70,000 tons, a great part of which, from its supe-
rior quality, was exported to the continent and to
America ; it was conveyed from the pits to the coast by
a railroad of iron, in waggons containing from two to
three tons each. The number of persons employed, in-
cluding women and children, was about 550, for whose
accommodation 130 houses had been built on the
estate, with neat gardens ; and there were many others
regularly engaged in shipping the coal at the port of St.
David. The great north road runs through a remote
part of the parish.
Donibristle is a splendid domain along the shore :
Fordel House is a handsome residence in extensive
grounds embellished with plantations, and comprehend-
ing much interesting scenery ; Cockairney is an ancient
mansion, situated near the eastern extremity of the lake
of Otterston, and on the northern bank is the old house
of Otterston. St. Colme House, a modern edifice, is
pleasantly situated opposite to the island of Inchcolm, in
the Frith of Forth. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Dunfermline
and synod of Fife. The stipend of the incumbent is
£227 ; the manse is the finest in Scotland, and the
glebe is valued at £20 per annum. The church, a very
handsome edifice in the later English style, was erected
in 1830, on a site about a mile to the north of the
ancient church, which was close to the sea ; it is
adapted for 500 persons. The parochial school is well
managed ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house
and garden, and the fees on the average amount to £18.
On the lands of the Earl of Moray are the remains of
the ancient church, which was, previously to the Re-
formation, an appendage of the monastery on the island
of Inchcolm. Within the area is the tomb of Chan-
cellor Seaton, who was created Earl of Dunfermline in
1605; and in front of one of the remaining galleries,
are the arms of the earls of Dunfermline.
DALGINROSS, a village, in the parish of Comrie,
county of Perth, 65 miles (W.) from Crieff; containing
317 inhabitants. This place is situated in the eastern
part of the parish, and on the road from Crieff to
Lochearuhead : the Earn water and Ruchill rivulet pass
in its immediate vicinity. The village adjoins that of
Comrie, and partakes of its trade, which is chiefly
cotton- weaving. On the contiguous plain of Dalginross
is a large Roman camp, of which Mr. Pennant has given
a plan and description in his Tour.
DALHOUSIE, a village, in the parish of Cockpen,
county of Edinburgh, 1 mile (W.) from Cockpen ;
containing 99 inhabitants. It is a small and straggling
place, situated south of the road between Cockpen and
Lasswade. The neighbourhood is distinguished as the
seat, for many generations, of the noble family of Ram-
say, whose baronial mansion, Dalhousie Castle, stands
on the banks of the South Esk, which flows at a few
yards distance from the walls. It is of great antiquity,
but has lost much of its former venerable aspect, having
undergone many alterations from time to time, and been
much modernised by the late Earl of Dalhousie. This
illustrious nobleman and gallant officer, who rendered
important services to his country through a brilliant
DALE
D A L K
military career in various parts of the globe, died at
the castle in March 1838, in his sixty-eighth year, and
was succeeded by his only surviving son, James
Andrew, the tenth and present earl.
DALINTOBER, a village, in the parish of Camp-
belltown, district of Cantyre, county of Argyll,
1 mile (N. W.) from Campbelltown ; containing 176c2
inhabitants. This place forms a pleasant suburb to the
burgh of Campbelltown, and is beautifully situated on
the opposite shore of the loch of Kilkerran, now Camp-
belltown bay, at its north-western extremity. From
the freedom its proprietors possess of granting long
leases for building, from which the superior of Camp-
belltown is restricted, it has rapidly increased to an
extent rivalling that of the burgh. It consists of one
spacious street extending along the water-side, and has
a substantial little pier. — See Campbelltown.
DALKEITH, a market-town, burgh of barony, and
parish, in the county of Edinburgh ; containing, with
the villages of Lugton and Whitehill, 5830 inhabitants,
of whom 4S31 are in the town, 6 miles (S. E. by S.)
from Edinburgh. This place, at a very remote period,
was the property of the ancient family of Graham,
whose baronial castle, together with the lands, in the
reign of David II., passed, by marriage with the daughter
and heiress of the last lord, to Sir William Douglas,
ancestor of the earls of Morton. In the reign of James
II., the castle was besieged by the Earl of Douglas,
in consequence of the firm attachment of its pro-
prietor to the cause of that monarch, against whom
the Douglas family had rebelled. It was, however,
vigorously and successfully defended, and, after the
disastrous battle of Pinkie, in 154", became the asylum
of many of the Scots who fled to it for refuge, till,
from want of provisions, the garrison was compelled to
surrender to the English. The castle was afterwards
the chief residence of the regent Morton, on whose
attainder, for the murder of Lord Darnley, it was,
together with the barony, forfeited to the crown. Upon
his execution, however, the lands were in part restored
to his family, though the castle was still held by the
crown, and, under the designation of the Palace of Dalkeith,
was reserved for the residence of Prince Henry, son
of James VI. During the visit of Charles I. to Scot-
land, in 1633, the palace was the chief residence of that
monarch; and in 1638, it was occupied by the Mar-
quess of Hamilton, who had been appointed by the
king commissioner to treat with the Covenanters, and
who, for greater security, removed into it the ancient
regalia of Scotland, which were subsequently deposited
in the castle of Edinburgh. In 1642, the castle and
barony were purchased by the family of Scott, who are
the present proprietors ; and in the time of the parlia-
mentary war, the former became the residence of General
Monk, Cromwell's governor of Scotland, by whom the
grounds are said to have been considerably improved.
The town is beautifully situated between the rivers
North and South Esk, and is handsome and well built,
consisting of several regular streets, of which the High-
street is spacious, and increases in breadth, from its
entrance on the west, till it terminates on the east at
the principal lodge of the palace. The streets are
paved, and lighted with gas ; and the inhabitants are
amply supplied with water. A public subscriDtion
library was established in 1698, and has now a collec-
tion of nearly 2500 volumes -, there is also a circulating
library, containing 3000 volumes. A scientific associa-
tion was instituted in 1835, for the delivery of lec-
tures on scientific subjects, and was for some time
supported with spirit ; but, from the difficulty of pro-
curing a regular succession of lecturers, it has been
almost discontinued. In the High-street are nume-
rous substantial houses and handsome shops stored
with every kind of merchandise ; and in other parts
of the town are several iron-foundries, tanneries, a
brewery, soap and candle manufactories, extensive brick
and tile works, and other establishments, with some
hotels and inns of a very superior description. There
are also several branch banks, and offices for the
agents of different insurance companies.
The market for grain, which is amply supplied, is
on Thursday, and is numerously attended by dealers
from distant places. From Martinmas to Whitsuntide,
a very large market for oatmeal is held weekly, on
Monday, which is one of the most frequented in
the kingdom ; and a customary market, abundantly
supplied with butchers' meat, poultry, and vegetables
and provisions of all kinds, is held every Saturday.
Fairs, chiefly for horses and black-cattle, are held on
the first Thursday in May and the third Tuesday in
October. Facility of communication is maintained by
good roads in various directions, and by the Edinburgh
and Dalkeith railway, which has its terminus near
the west entrance of the town. This railway, constructed
under acts of parliament passed in 1826 and 1829,
by a company with a capital of £150,000, was completed
to the South Esk river, near Newbattle, a distance of
eight miles and a quarter, and opened to the public in
1831. The line from Sheriff Hall to the town, carried,
by a stately bridge and massive embankment, over the
North Esk, was constructed at the expense of the
Duke of Buccleuch, and opened in 1838. A branch to
the duke's collieries at Cowden, after passing through
part of the town, is continued across the valley of the
South Esk by a noble viaduct of timber, supported on
piers of stone, and consisting of six arches, of which
four are each 120 feet in span. There are branches
diverging from the main line to Leith and Fisherrow,
including which the railway is about fifteen miles in
length ; and it is intended to introduce locomotive-
engines, and continue the line to Hawick. The station
at Dalkeith is a neat building in the cottage style. The
town is partly governed by a baron-bailie, appointed
by the Duke of Buccleuch ; but he exercises civil juris-
diction only in actions not exceeding £2, and jurisdiction
in criminal cases only for petty offences punishable by
a small fine or a night's imprisonment, referring all
more important causes to the sheriff of the county.
There are six incorporated trades, the hammermen,
bakers, weavers, shoemakers, dyers, and butchers ; but
they possess no exclusive privileges, and are scarcely
to be regarded as any thing more than so many friendly
societies. The paving, lighting, and watching of the
town, with the regulation of the markets and police,
are under the direction of a board of trustees, who are
invested with power to levy taxes for these purposes.
The court-house, containing also a small prison, is an
ancient building without any pretension to style, situated
in the High-street.
From the beauty of the surrounding scenery, and the
DALK
D A L L
numerous attractions of its palace and other objects
of interest, the town is a favourite place of residence,
and the resort of visiters from Edinburgh. The palace,
which was the residence of George IV. during his visit
to Scotland in 1822, and had also the honour of a
visit from her present Majesty, attended by Prince
Albert, in 1S42, is situated at the eastern extremity of
the town. Though not remarkable for the style of its
architecture, it is a spacious and magnificent structure.
It was erected on the site of the ancient castle, on the
precipitous and richly-wooded banks of the North
Esk, about the close of the 17 th century, by Anne,
Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth, who, after the
execution of her husband, the Duke of Monmouth, re-
sided here in all the pomp and splendour, and with all
the appendages, of royalty. The interior comprises
numerous state apartments : the grand staircase, the
throne-room, the conservatory, the picture-gallery, con-
taining an extensive collection of paintings by the
most eminent masters of the various schools, and the
whole of the internal arrangements are costly and
superb. The demesne attached to the palace com-
prises more than 1000 acres, and abounds with variety
and beauty of scenery. The rivers North and South
Esk, of which the banks are precipitous and richly-
wooded, flow in graceful windings through the demesne,
and unite their streams, over which are many pic-
turesque bridges, within its limits. The pleasure-grounds
are tastefully laid out in lawns, shrubberies, and plant-
ations ; and the park, which is well stocked with deer,
is finely ornamented with venerable timber.
The parish is about three miles in length, and nearly
two in breadth, comprising an area of which about one-
half is arable, and the remainder woodland and pasture.
The soil is rich, and the lands are divided into farms
of moderate extent, in the highest state of cultivation ;
the chief crops are, wheat, barley, oats, beans, potatoes,
and turnips, and much of the surface is garden ground,
producing abundance of fruit for the Edinburgh market.
The substratum is generally coal, which is found at a
very considerable depth, and of which extensive mines
are in operation at Cowden, about a mile to the south-
east of the town. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £16,713. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Dalkeith and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; patron, the Duke of
Buccleuch. The minister's stipend is £316, with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £40 per annum. The old
parish church, on the north side of the High-street, is
an ancient structure in the early English style, with a
square embattled tower, and is partly dilapidated ; the
interior is but indifferently arranged, containing 1130
sittings, of which sixty-five are free. The churchyard is
extensive. A new church was erected by the Duke of
Buccleuch in 1S40 ; it is a handsome cruciform struc-
ture in the later English style, and is beautifully
situated in the north-west of the town, overlooking
the vale of the North Esk. There are places of worship
for members of the United Secession, Independents,
the Relief Church, Wesleyans, and members of the
Free Church. The parochial or grammar school, which
has long maintained a high degree of reputation, is
conducted by a rector and two assistants ; the rector's
salary is £34, with a house and garden, and the fees
average about £75. The course of studies includes the
263
classics, the French and Italian languages, the mathe-
matics, and the usual branches of a liberal education ;
and many eminent literary characters have received
the rudiments of their education in the establishment.
The town confers the title of earl upon the Duke of
Buccleuch.
DALLAS, a parish, in the county of Elgin; includ-
ing the hamlet of Edinville, and containing 1179 in-
habitants, of whom 187 are in the village of Dallas,
8 miles (S. E.) from Forres. This place takes its name
from the two Gaelic words dale, a vale or plain, and uis,
contracted from uisge, water. It was formerly the seat
of the sub-dean, and comprehended the parish of Altyre;
but that district was disjoined and annexed to the parish
of Rafford, in 1657, and Easter-Kelles, a part of the
parish of Elgin, was joined to Dallas, an arrangement
which was ratified by act of parliament in 1661. The
barony of Dallas was at an early period in the posses-
sion of the Cummings of Altyre, whose castle of Dallas,
or Torcastle, was built by Sir Thomas Cumming in the
year 1400 ; and the Cummings, with the Earl of Fife,
are still the principal heritors. The parish, approximat-
ing in form to an oval, measures about fifteen miles in
length, and nine in breadth, and consists mainly of
valleys and rising grounds. The chief valley is watered
by the Lossie, which rises here, in Loch Trevie, and,
after contributing to form much beautiful scenery, and
taking its course through the parishes of Birnie, Elgin,
and Drainie, falls into the Moray Frith at the port of
Lossiemouth. The summits of the hills skirting this
valley on each side are covered with heath, but their
slopes are highly cultivated, yielding heavy and luxu-
riant crops, down to the banks of the stream, which
in many places are ornamented with alder-trees, sup-
plying bark frequently used by the people for preparing
a black dye. Besides the Lossie, there are numerous
burns greatly enlivening the scenery, which in general
is highly interesting; and all of these, rising among the
hills, run into the Lossie. That called the burn of Glen
Latterach, or Angry burn, forms a beautiful cascade,
surrounded by nearly perpendicular rocks 100 feet in
height ; and on the burn of Auchness is another pictu-
resque fall, though less striking than the former. All
the lochs are well stocked with excellent trout ; the
chief are those of Dallas, Noir, Rheninver, and Trevie.
The soil along the banks of the Lossie is a fertile allu-
vial earth, resting on gravel ; but at the base of the
mountains the land has a tilly subsoil, and partakes of
the character of the mosses, which, higher up, towards
the south, are spread out in extensive tracts. Most of
the inhabitants are employed in the cultivation of the
land. The rateable annual value of the parish is £2913.
The rocks comprise granite, felspar, mica, freestone,
and grey slate, and there are quarries of the two last,
but not in operation. Of the plantations, the most con-
spicuous are those on the hills of Melundy and Wangie,
and that on the estate of Craigmill ; the first has lately
been replanted with silver-fir, spruce, larch, and birch,
and part of the second with fir and larch, the other part
being covered with natural oak. CraigmilL adjoining
Melundy, has a thriving plantation of fir and larch.
The village, pleasantly situated on the northern bank
of the Lossie, about a quarter of a mile from the church,
was feued forty-five years since, by Sir Alexander Pen-
rose Cumming. The woollen manufacture is carried
D A L M
DALM
on in the parish, employing ten or twelve hands. There
are county roads to Elgin and Forres, in good condi-
tion ; and a new road called the Knockando road, ex-
tending from Forres to the Spey, is of great advantage
to the more hilly parts of the district. The parish is
in the presbytery of Forres and synod of Moray, and in
the patronage of Sir William Gordon Gordon dim-
ming, of Altyre and Gordonstown, Bart. The minis-
ter's stipend is £15S. 6. 8., of which about a third is
received from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £11 per annum. The church, situated in
about the centre of the parish, will accommodate 400
persons, but, never having been properly finished, is
found inconvenient and uncomfortable. The parochial
school affords instruction in the usual branches ; the
master has a salary of £34, with a house, and £12 fees,
and also participates in the Dick bequest. The chief
relic of antiquity is the ruin of the castle, situated on a
plain about a mile from the church, on the north bank
of the Lossie ; and in the churchyard is a stone cross,
twelve feet high, at the foot of which lies an effigy of
St. Michael, the patron saint of the parish, in ruins.
DALMELLINGTON, a parish, in the district of
Kyle, county of Ayr, 14 miles (S. E. by S.) from Ayr ;
containing 1199 inhabitants. This place derived its
name, signifying in the Gaelic language " the town of
the valley of the mill," from the particular local features
which distinguished it at the time. The parish is about
ten miles in length, and three in average breadth, and
is bounded on the south and south-west by the lake and
river of Doon, which separate it from the parish of
Straiton, in Carrick. It comprises 20,000 acres, of
which 1304 are arable, 17,S00 pasture and waste, whereof
1200 might be brought into profitable cultivation, 750
woods and plantations, and about 300 undivided com-
mon. The surface is extremely varied. The upper
portion of it is intersected by three ridges of moderate
elevation, two of which are nearly parallel, and the
third crossing them obliquely. The lower part of the
parish is one continued ridge of heights, of which the
principal are Benwhat, Benbraniachan, and Benbeoch,
which last terminates the ridge, to the east, in a splendid
range of basaltic columns nearly 300 feet in height, and
about 600 feet in breadth. Between this ridge and the
river Doon is a level plain, about three miles in length,
and one mile broad, and on which the village is situ-
ated.
Several deep and precipitous defiles are formed bj'
the approach of the ridges towards each other ; and on
the Dumfries road they approximate so closely as, in
some parts, to leave only a sufficient passage for the
road and a small burn which flows by it. On the side
of the Loch Doon range of heights, where the river
issues from the lake, the precipitous rocks approach
within thirty feet of each other for nearly a mile, rising
perpendicularly to the height of 300 feet above the bed
of the river, and presenting a magnificent combination
of features. This pass, called the Glen or Craigs of
Ness, forms the entrance to the vale of Doon, which
afterwards expands into rich and luxuriant meadows.
The river issues from the lake through two tunnels
excavated in the solid rock, and, pursuing a north-
westerly course along the boundary of the parish, in-
tersects a level plain, in part of which, near the village,
its waters expand into a wide lake. This lake is called
264
Bogton, and is frequented by aquatic fowl of various
kinds ; and near the south-east of the parish is Loch
Muck, in the form of a crescent, covering about thirty
acres in the middle of a heathy moor, of great depth,
and abounding with black trout.
The soil on the banks of the river is a deep rich
loam ; along the bases of the hills in the lower part of
the parish, a moist clayey loam, resting on sandstone;
and behind the ridge, moss. In the higher part the soil
is light and dry, interspersed with peat resting on grey-
wacke rock, with some portions of heath. The prin-
cipal crop of grain is oats, and the green crops are
chiefly potatoes ; the system of agriculture is advanc-
ing; draining has been practised to a small extent, and
spade husbandry has been adopted with success upon
the mossy lands, on a limited scale. About 8000 sheep,
mostly of the black-faced breed, are pastured in the
course of the year, with a small number of the Cheviot
and Leicestershire breeds; 300 Ayrshire cows, and
about 500 head of young cattle, partly of the Galloway
breed, are also annually pastured. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £3679. The plantations are
principally larch and Scotch fir, which appear to be
well adapted to the soil, and are in a thriving condi-
tion, with ash, and birch, some oak, and other hard-
woods. The substrata are chiefly sandstone and grey-
wacke, with coal, ironstone, and limestone ; the coal
has been worked in several places, in some of which,
especially in the lower parts of the parish, it has been
found at little more than two fathoms from the surface.
Pits have been opened, and are now in operation, at
Camlarg, about a mile from the village, and at the
extremity of the parish, about five miles distant.
The village, which was a burgh of barony, is plea-
santly situated in the vale, sheltered in the rear by hills
of various elevation. There are, a library supported by
subscription, which has a collection of 800 volumes,
and a reading-room, which has also a library of more
than 600 volumes, bequeathed to it some years since by
a shopkeeper of the village. A penny-post has been
established here ; and there are some inns for the recep-
tion of the numerous visiters whom the interesting
scenery of the neighbourhood attracts to the spot, and
of the shooting and fishing parties who resort hither
during the season. The woollen manufacture is carried
on to a tolerable extent. Two mills, employing a
moderate number of hands, are in operation, in spin-
ning woollen-yarn, which is here manufactured into
plaidmg, tartans, carpets, blankets, and packing-cloths.
Several of the inhabitants are also employed in weaving
cotton cloth ; and there was formerly an extensive
bleachfield, which, since the substitution of cottons,
and the increased importation of Irish linens, has been
discontinued, and in lieu of which a thread-mill has
been substituted on the premises. Fairs are held on
Easter Eve, the first Friday after Whitsunday, and
Hallow E'en (O. S.), chiefly for wool and for hiring
servants.
The parish is in the presbytery of Ayr and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the Crown.
The minister's stipend is £15S, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £20 per annum. The church, situated
in the village, was built in 1766, and is adapted for
nearly 450 persons. The parochial school is well
conducted; the master has a salary of £34, with £10
DALM
DALM
fees, and a house and garden. There was formerly
a castle near the village, the site of which only is re-
maining, the materials having been removed for the
erection of a house in the village, from that circum-
stance called the Castle House. It appears to have been
but of small dimensions ; it is traditionally styled Dame
Helen's Castle, and between it and the village is a mound,
once the place for dispensing justice. There was an-
other castle, apparently of larger dimensions, and of
greater strength, situated on the projecting side of a
deep glen, and called Laght Alpine ; nothing, however,
but the site is remaining. A Roman road passed
through the whole length of the parish, but has been
destroyed to furnish materials for making dykes ; it
has been traced through the parish of Dalrymple to
its termination at a ford on the river Ayr. Several
cairns, also, have been removed for a similar purpose,
one of which, on the summit of a hill above the village,
was 115 yards in circumference.
DALMENY, a parish, in the county of Linlith-
gow ; including the village of Craigie, and containing
1393 inhabitants, of whom 1 IS are in the village of
Dalmeny, ]•£ mile (S. E.) from Queensferry. This place,
in ancient records styled Dumanie, is supposed to have
derived that name, of Celtic origin, signifying black
heath, from the appearance of the greater portion of its
surface at that period. The barony, including the lands
and castle of Barnbougle, once belonged to the family
of Mowbray, who came over from Normandy with
William the Conqueror, and of whom Philip de Mow-
bray was lord of Dalmeny in the reign of Alexander II.
It remained in the possession of his descendants till the
year 1615, when it was sold by Sir Robert Mowbray to
Sir Thomas Hamilton, afterwards Earl of Haddington,
whose grandson, in 166*2, disposed of it to Sir Archi-
bald Primrose, Bart., of Carrington, afterwards justice-
general of Scotland, and ancestor of the Earl of Rose-
bery, the present proprietor.
The parish is bounded on the north by the Frith of
Forth, along which it extends for about four miles, from
a rivulet separating it from the parish of Cramond, on
the east, to Abercorn on the west. It is about two
miles and a half in breadth, and includes the ancient
parish of Auldcathie, which was annexed to it in 1618,
and is the property of the Earl of Hopetoun ; the whole
comprising an area of 5850 acres, of which 650 are in
Auldcathie. The number of acres under tillage is about
4000; 1000 are meadow and pasture, and S50 wood-
land and plantations. The surface is finely undulated,
rising in some parts into hills of considerable height, of
which the principal are, Dundas hill, the Mons, and
Craigie hill, having an average elevation of 380 feet
above the sea. The view from the summit of Mons
hill is almost unrivalled for beauty and extent, com-
manding a range over sixteen counties, and com-
prising a rich variety of picturesque and romantic
features. The shore is indented with numerous small
bays and inlets ; and though in some parts the beach is
rendered unsafe, from the quantities of moss carried
down by the river, yet it is pleasingly alternated with
tracts of white sand, in which a great variety of shells
is imbedded. The Linmill burn flows into the Frith
near the western extremity of the parish, and in its
course, falling from a precipitous rock of whinstone,
nearly seventy-five feet hish, near Springfield, forms a
Vol. I.— 265
pleasing cascade. The soil of the higher grounds is
chiefly clay, improving gradually towards the lower
lands into a rich loam, producing abundant crops, in
some places almost without manure. The system of
agriculture is in a very advanced state, and the lands
have been well drained ; the crops are, oats, barley, and
wheat, with turnips and potatoes; the pastures are rich,
and a considerable number of sheep and cattle are fed
on turnips. The plantations consist of oak, ash, elm,
beech, plane, and rir, of which there are many trees of
ancient growth. The substrata are, limestone, freestone,
and whinstone ; and along the acclivity of Dundas hill is
a range of columnar basalt, seventy feet in height, at the
base of which was formerly a loch, now drained, and
consisting of a deep bed of moss lying on shell marl, in
which oak-trees have been found imbedded, in a very
perfect state. The freestone is of the finest quality, and
has been extensively wrought near Queensferry ; iron-
stone is also found, and there are some indications ot
coal, but no attempts have been made to work it.
Dalmeny House, the seat of the Earl of Rosebery, is a
noble mansion built by the present earl, and surrounded
by an extensive and richly-wooded park, in which are
the remains of the ancient castle of Barnbougle, over-
hanging the Frith. The grounds gradually rise from
the shore in beautiful undulations, commanding diver-
sified prospects over the Frith and the adjacent country,
and combining much variety of scenery. Her Majesty
visited this seat during her stay at Edinburgh in Sept.
1S4<2. Craigie Hall stands near the south-eastern ex-
tremity of the parish, in the vale of the Almond, and
sheltered by rising grounds clothed with stately timber.
The river Almond winds through the demesne, and,
flowing by the mansion, forms a picturesque cascade
falling perpendicularly from its rocky bed, shortly after
which the stream runs beneath a rustic bridge of one
arch, forty-eight feet in span, erected in the year 1757.
Near the cascade is a grotto, in which are a bath,
supplied and emptied by sluices from the river, and a
saloon. Dundas, an elegant modern mansion built in
connexion with an ancient baronial castle, is situated
on the steep acclivity of a craggy hill, in a picturesque
demesne of 1600 acres. The castle, is supposed to
have been originally erected in the eleventh century,
and several additions were made to it in the early part
of the fifteenth century, when its proprietor obtained
a license from Robert, Duke of Albany, to convert it
into a fortress, which license was confirmed by James I.,
in 1424. The walls, which are of great thickness, were
raised to the height of seventy-five feet ; the various
rooms are all vaulted, and a circular staircase leads
to the roof, which is flat, and defended by a battlement.
In the grounds, in front of the castle, is a fountain
of singular design, formerly occupying the centre of a
quadrangular area inclosed with massive stone walls,
twelve feet in height. Within these walls were flights
of steps, leading to a banquet-room at each of the
angles ; and the whole is said to have been constructed
in 16C23, by Sir Walter Dundas, who appropriated to
that purpose the funds he had set aside for the pur-
chase of the barony of Barnbougle, in which he was
anticipated by the Earl of Haddington. The village of
Dalmeny is pleasantly situated on the road leading to
Dundas, and consists of a few cottages built round a
green, with the church and manse.
<2 M
D A L R
D A L R
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Linlithgow and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is
£9.64, with a manse, and a glebe of five and a half acres ;
patrons, the Earl of Rosebery and the Earl of Hopetoun,
alternately. The church is an ancient structure in the
Saxon style, of which it is a very elegant specimen.
The interior is eighty-four feet long, and twenty-five
feet wide, with a semicircular chancel, divided from the
nave by a deeply-recessed and richly-moulded arch with
zigzag ornaments ; and the capitals of the columns that
support the vaulted roof, are also embellished with
sculpture. It was repaired in 1S16, and contains 350
sittings. At the entrance is a large stone coffin, formed
of one entire stone, and inscribed on the sides and on the
lid with hieroglyphic characters. The church of Auld-
cathie is in ruins. There is a place of worship for
members of the United Associate Synod. The parochial
schoolmaster has a salary of £34, and the interest of
£300 bequeathed by Lady Semple, in 1723, and vested
in the Earl of Rosebery and the minister. The poor
have the rent of lands held by the Earl of Rosebery,
producing about £30 a year. James Davidson, Esq.,
bequeathed £200 to the poor not on the parish list ;
and such of them as live in that part of the town of
Queensferry within this parish, participate in the pro-
ceeds of Mr. Meek's bequest of £5000 to the parishes
of Dalmeny and Queensferry. About a mile to the west
of Barnbougle Castle, on the summit of an eminence,
is an ancient cairn called Earl Cairney, appearing to
have been originally 500 feet in circumference at the
base, and now twenty-four feet in height. At Spring-
field were recently discovered a skeleton of large size,
and a trench filled with human bones ; and near Queens-
ferry, on the lands of Dundas, a brass vessel, in which
was a pagan idol, was found in 173S, but was destroyed
by the workmen. Several silver medals of Marcus
Antoninus, having on the reverse a figure of Victory ;
the carved handle of a copper vessel ; and part of an
earthen urn, were found near Dundas Castle. The pa-
rish gives the title of Baron to the Earl of Rosebery. —
See Queensferry.
DALMUIR and DALMUIR-SHORE, villages, in
the parish of Old Kilpatrick, county of Dumbarton,
the one 2 miles (E. S. E.) and the other 2| miles (S. E.
by S.) from Old Kilpatrick ; containing respectively
526 and 1 8/ inhabitants. These places are in the vici-
nity of the Forth and Clyde canal and the road from
Glasgow to Dumbarton, and on the south flows the
Clyde. They each partake in the manufactures of the
parish, and there is a quay for domestic traffic, of very
ancient date. Among the works are a paper-mill, a
bleachfield, and a soda-factory : the last, established by
the grandfather of the present Earl of Zetland, stands
on the margin of the river, its furnaces and chimneys
contrasting remarkably with the surrounding scenery,
which is very pleasing. The principal stream of the
district, supplied by two lakes, falls here into the
Clyde.
DALROSSIE.— See Moy and Dalrossie.
DALRY, a manufacturing town and parish, in the
district of Cunninghame, county of Ayr, 5 miles (S. W.)
from Beith, and 7 (N. N. E.) from Saltcoats ; containing
4791 inhabitants. This place derives its name, in the
Gaelic language signifying the " king's valley," from its
266
situation in the vale of Garnock, which formed part of
the royal demesnes. Previously to the year 160S the
town was an inconsiderable village, consisting only of
five or six decent houses, and a few straggling cottages,
and containing scarcely one hundred inhabitants. It
owes its origin and increase to the erection of the parish
church at this place, towards the commencement of the
seventeenth century, when the two ancient churches,
becoming dilapidated, were abandoned. The town is
beautifully situated on a gentle eminence rising from the
right bank of the river Garnock, and between the rivers
Rye and Caaf, which flow into the Garnock above and
below the town ; it consists principally of five streets,
three of which terminate in an open area nearly in the
centre. The houses are regularly and well built, and
many of them are of handsome appearance ; the streets
are lighted with gas by subscription of the inhabitants,
for which purpose a company was formed, and works
erected, in 1 834. There are two good bridges of stone
across the Garnock, of two and three arches respectively ;
and bridges of one arch each have been erected over trie
rivers Rye and Caaf.
The weaving of silk for the manufacturers of Glasgow
and Paisley is the principal occupation of the inhabitants,
in which 500 persons are constantly engaged ; and as
they are employed chiefly in the superior description of
articles, they have not been subjected to the depression
occasioned by the introduction of power-looms, which
are not adapted to the finer kinds of work. A great
number of females, also, are employed in sewing and
embroidering muslins, for the Glasgow and Paisley mar-
kets, which are celebrated for Ayrshire needlework ;
and a mill originally erected for spinning cotton has
been enlarged, and converted to the spinning of woollen-
yarn for the making of carpets. There is likewise a
manufactory for wooden plates, bowls, ladles, and other
articles of the kind, the machinery of which is driven by
a steam-engine of two-horse power. The town contains
numerous handsome shops, amply supplied with every
requisite for the supply of the inhabitants and of the
neighbourhood. A public library is supported by sub-
scription, and has more than 1000 volumes; a church
library, also supported by subscription, in connexion
with the parochial school, contains 600 volumes ; and
there is also a library belonging to the congregation of
the United Secession. The Ardrossan Farmers' Society
hold their annual exhibitions occasionally in the town,
and the Ayrshire Agricultural Association meet alter-
nately here and at Kilmarnock. Six fairs are annually
held, but one only is of any importance, which takes
place on the last day of July, and was formerly one of
the most extensive horse-fairs in the west of Scotland ; it
is chiefly for horses and cattle, but comparatively little
business is transacted.
The parish is ten miles in length, and from three to
eight in breadth, and comprises 19,046 acres, of which
12,287 are arable, 60S9 pasture and waste, and 670
woodland and plantations. The surface is pleasingly
varied. A rich and fertile valley, through which the
river Garnock pursues its winding course, intersects the
parish nearly in the centre. The grounds on the western
side of this valley rise, by a gradual ascent, towards the
north-west boundary, and terminate in a ridge of hills,
of which the highest has an elevation of 1200 feet above
the sea. The lands on the eastern side are interspersed
DALR
D A L It
with hills of various height, of which Baidland and
Caerwinning are the chief, the former having an elevation
of 946, and the latter of 634 feet. The river Garnock
rises in the parish of Kilbirnie, flows for seven miles
through this parish, and, after receiving in its course
numerous tributary streams, of which the Rye and the
Caaf are the principal, falls into the sea at Irvine. The
Rye has its source in the parish of Largs, and runs
through a deep and richly-wooded dell into this parish.
The Caaf rises on the confines of Kilbride and Largs,
and, forcing its way through & basaltic rock, in which it
has worn for itself a passage, enters a deep and rocky
glen, where, its course being obstructed by huge blocks
of stone, it forms a romantic cascade. The fall is from
a height of twenty-four feet, in one unbroken column
twenty feet in breadth, between two large masses of
rock. There are also numerous springs of excellent
water in the parish, and some possessing mineral pro-
perties, one of which, at Loans Bridge, is a strong cha-
lybeate, and one at Maulside powerfully efficacious in
scorbutic affections. The vale of the Garnock is thought
to have been anciently an extensive lake, reaching from
this place to Johnstone, in the county of Renfrew, and of
which the lochs of Kilbirnie and Castle-Semple formed a
part ; and the supposition is in some degree rendered
probable from the number of trees that have been found
imbedded in the soil of the valley.
The soil is generally a thin cold retentive clay, with
a portion of rich loam along the banks of the Garnock ;
in some parts, of more adhesive clay, with a large extent
of moss ; and in the uplands, of a light and dry quality.
The progress of the plough is impeded by vast numbers
of boulders, of which, though great quantities have been
removed at various times, many still remain ; some of
the mosses are of great depth, and in all of them oak,
birch, and hazel trees are found prostrate. The crops
are, wheat, oats, barley, beans, potatoes, and flax : the
system of agriculture is in an advanced state, and much
waste land has been brought into cultivation. The
dairy-farms are extensive and well-managed ; about
1400 milch-cows are kept, mostly of the Cunninghame
breed, and the average quantity of cheese, to the making
of which particular attention is paid, exceeds 35,000
stones annually. The sheep are generally of the black-
faced Linton breed, with a few of a breed between the
Cheviot and Leicestershire. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £16,314. The plantations, especially
those on the lands of Blair, which have been chiefly
formed on steep rocky banks, within the last forty years,
are in a very thriving condition, and consist of oak, ash,
beech, chesnuts, and willow, and of silver and spruce firs,
and larch. Those around the house of Blair contain
several fine specimens of luxuriant growth, among which
are a Spanish chesnut and some plane trees ; and in the
grounds are various kinds of evergreens, including Por-
tugal laurels and rhododendrons of unusual size. The
plantations on the lands of Maulside are also remarkably
fine.
The substrata of the parish are, sandstone, limestone,
and coal, and the hills are mostly claystone-porphyry,
greenstone, and basalt; jasper is found in the porphyry,
hornstone in the bed of the Caaf, and agate in that of
the Rye. In the hill of Baidland, a vein of cannel coal
has been discovered of the thickness of six feet, exceed-
ingly inflammable, and, when burnt, emitting a strong
267
sulphureous smell. There are several coal-pits at present
open ; valuable clay is also dug. Limestone is ex-
tensively quarried, not only for the supply of the parish,
but for that of the adjoining districts ; and there are
three lime-kilns, at which great quantities of lime are
burnt, and sold at a very moderate price. Ironstone,
also, recently discovered, is wrought to a large ex-
tent. Blair House is a spacious mansion, situated
in a richly-embellished demesne ; a handsome residence
has been recently erected at Swinridgemuir, and there
is also a good house on the lands of Pitcon. Facility
of intercourse with the neighbouring towns is afforded
by excellent roads ; and turnpike-roads to Paisley,
Irvine, Kilmarnock, and Glasgow, and the railway from
Glasgow to Ayr, pass through the parish.
Dairy is in the presbytery of Irvine and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr, and patronage of W. Blair, Esq.
The minister's stipend is £231. 10., with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £24 per annum. The church, erected
in 1/71, and thoroughly repaired in 1821, is a neat
plain edifice adapted for S'O persons, but greatly inade-
quate to the population. There are places of worship for
the Free Church and United Secession. The parochial
school affords a good course of education ; the master
has a salary of £32, with £65 fees, and a house and
garden. There are considerable remains of an ancient
fortification on the summit of Caerwinning hill, con-
sisting of three concentric circular ramparts of stone,
inclosing an area of about two acres in extent, and sur-
rounded by a fosse which may still be traced. The
walls, about ten feet in thickness, have been nearly
destroyed by the removal of the stones, at different
periods, for fences and other uses. The Scottish forces
are said to have been encamped here previously to the
battle of Largs. There were formerly some remains,
also, of a square fort on a precipitous rock called
Aitnach Craig, on the bank of the Rye ; but it has been
totally destroyed. An artificial mound near the town,
named Courthill, of conical form, and grown over with
grass, was once the place for dispensing justice ; and
various tumuli have been discovered, in some of which
were human bones. Four urns containing human bones
have been found on the lands of Linn, near the site of
an ancient chapel ; an urn, also, containing calcined
bones and ashes, has been discovered near Blair House.
DALRY, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirkcud-
bright, 15 miles (N. N. W.) from Castle-Douglas ; con-
taining 1215 inhabitants, of whom 574 are in the village
of St. John's Clachan. This parish, of which the name,
signifying the " Royal Dale," is derived from a level
and fertile plain called the Holm, is about fifteen miles
in length, and seven miles in breadth, comprising 33,000
acres. The surface is diversified with hills, of which
some are green to their summit, and others are covered
with barren heath ; the proportion of arable land is
very small, nearly four-fifths of the area being pasture.
The river Ken, which rises in the northern extremity of
the parish, forms the western boundary between it and
Kells, and, after a beautifully-winding course, flows
through Loch Ken into the river Dee. The smaller
streams are, the Blackwater, the Earlston, and the
Stronriggan, which run through the parish into the
Ken ; they all abound with trout, and in the Ken
are found also pike and salmon. The chief lakes are,
Lochinvar, Boston, Knocksting, and Knockman, of
2 M 2
DALR
DAL R
which Lochinvar, about fifty acres in extent, is the most
important ; the others are all of very small dimensions,
and undistinguished by any features requiring notice.
In Lochinvar are the remains of the ancient castle of
the Gordons, knights of Lochinvar, and afterwards vis-
counts Kenmure ; and near it is a cairn, raised as a
trophy on a spot where the first knight killed a wild
boar that infested this part of the country. The scenery
along the banks of the Ken is enriched with ancient
woods of considerable extent, of which the largest is
that of Earlston, formerly a hunting-seat of the Earl of
Bothwell, and in which are some plantations of stately
fir.
The soil on the Holm lands is tolerably fertile, yield-
ing favourable crops of barley, oats, turnips, potatoes,
and rye ; and the hills and higher lands afford excellent
pasture. The system of agriculture is improved ; and
the surface has been drained, and inclosed with stone
dykes of sufficient height to afford shelter to the cattle.
Great numbers of sheep and black-cattle are reared in
the pastures. In the village is a post-office under that
of Castle-Douglas ; and facility of communication is
maintained by good roads, of which those from Kirk-
cudbright to Ayr and Glasgow, and from Newton-
Stewart, to Dumfries and Edinburgh, intersect the pa-
rish. The rateable annual value of Dairy is £5768.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright and synod of
Galloway. The minister's stipend is £21*. 12., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum ; patron,
William Forbes, Esq., of Callendar. The church, erected
in 1832, is a neat structure containing 700 sittings : in
the churchyard is an aisle of the old church, quite de-
tached from the present building, and which is the
burying-place of the Gordon family. There is a place
of worship for members of the United Secession. Two
parochial schools, of which the masters have salaries of
£25 each, with a house and garden, in addition to the
fees, are supported by the heritors, and attended by
more than forty children. A grammar school was
founded by Dr. Robert Johnson, of London, who en-
dowed it with £1000 for the gratuitous instruction of
the children of the parish ; it is under the management
of two masters, who have salaries of £15 each, and is
attended by nearly 120 children. The building, erected
in 1658, comprises a good dwelling-house and school-
room, with eight acres of land attached to it. There
are several remains of ancient buildings on the farms of
Benbreck and Manquhill, supposed to have been the
ancient residence of the Galloway family ; and in various
parts of the parish, are numerous intrench ments for the
security of cattle during the times of the border war-
fare.— See Clachan, St. John's.
DALRYMPLE, a parish, in the district of Kyle,
county of Ayr, 5 miles (N. E.) from Maybole ; contain-
ing 909 inhabitants. This place derives its name, in
the Celtic language signifying " the dale of the crooked
water," from the situation of its village on a bend of
the river Doon. The barony, which in ancient times
was held by a family who took their name from the
lands, was, in the reign of David II., divided into two
portions, and held by two families named Dalrymple,
descended from one common ancestor. In 1371, on
the resignation of one of the portionists, John Kennedy
of Dunure obtained from Robert II. a charter granting
268
him that half of the barony, and in 1377 another charter,
conferring upon him the other half ; and the whole con-
tinued in the possession of his descendants till 1684,
after which the barony passed into the hands of various
proprietors. The parish is seven miles in length, from
east to west, and three miles in extreme breadth, from
north to south, and is bounded on the south and west
by the river Doon ; it comprises 6700 acres, of which
4200 are arable, 1900 meadow aud hill pasture, 500
woodland and plantations, and about 100 water. The
surface, with the exception of that part in which the
village is situated, is exceedingly uneven, being inter-
spersed with rising grounds and small detached hills
of various elevation. Woodland, the most southerly
height, commands a fine view of the surrounding country,
including the isles of Bute and Arran, the Mull of Can-
tyre, Ailsa Craig, and Ben-Lomond; aud from the sum-
mit of Kirkmien, the highest of the elevations, the north
coast of Ireland may be distinctly seen in fair weather.
There are numerous springs in the parish, of which
several possess mineral properties, though one on!y, on
the lands of Barbieston, is a chalybeate of moderate
strength.
Of the lakes, the only one of much importance is that
of Martinham, which is about a mile and a half in
length, and less than a quarter of a mile in breadth ; its
greatest depth is about twenty-six feet. On a beauti-
fully-wooded island in this lake, are the ruins of an
ancient building supposed to have been the mansion-
house of the Martinham estate; they are 100 feet long,
and thirty in breadth, and the walls, which are the chief
remains, are thickly overspread with luxuriant ivy. The
other lakes are, Loch Snipe, Loch Kerse, and Loch
Lindston ; all abound with pike, perch, and eels, and
are frequented by wild-duck, teal, widgeon, and other
aquatic fowl. From the loch of Martinham, which ex-
tends into the parish of Coylton, a small burn flows
into the river Doon. This river, celebrated by the poet
Burns, falls, after a course of about thirty miles, into
the Frith of Clyde ; salmon are found in its stream,
though in less number since the laying down of stake-
nets at its mouth, and some are taken v\hich weigh
from ten to twenty pounds. Sea and yellow trout, par,
eels, and pike are also found in its waters.
The soil is principally clay, though alternated with
sand, gravel, and loam ; the clay is of various kinds, of
a red, blue, and whitish hue ; the loam is found chiefly
near the river and around the lochs. There is very
little mossy land. The crops are, oats and wheat,
barley, bear, potatoes, turnips, beet, and a small quan-
tity of flax for domestic use ; the system of agriculture
is in an advancing state, and all the more recent improve-
ments have been introduced. There are several large
dairy-farms, all of which are well managed ; about 4000
stones of cheese are annually produced, of which a con-
siderable part is sent to the markets, and the remainder
sold for the supply of the immediate neighbourhood.
The rateable anuual value of the parish is £5615. The
woods consist of oak, elm, ash, alder, birch, plane, and
lime ; and the plantations, of larch, and spruce and
Scotch firs. In the old gardens at Skeldon are six
stately oaks, supposed to be more than 300 years old,
and some remarkably fine larches ; and in the village
are a sycamore and horse-chesnut tree of extraordinary
dimensions. The substrata are, limestone, red sand-
D A L S
D A L S
stone, and conglomerate. The limestone occurs in
masses of not more than a foot in thickness, and of
great hardness ; the sandstone is of good quality for
building, but not extensively worked, and large boulders
of trap and granite are scattered over the surface of
several of the lands. Coal is found in (he upper parts
of the parish, and there are two mines, but not at present
in operation. The seats are Skeldon and Hollybush, both
handsome residences seated in richly-planted demesnes.
The village is beautifully situated, and is uniformly
and neatly built on lands belonging to the Marquess of
Ailsa. A subscription library, a musical society, a curl-
ing club, and a club in honour of the poet Burns, have
been established here, and are well attended. Several
of the inhabitants are occupied in the various trades
requisite for the wants of the neighbourhood ; and a
woollen manufactory, employing about thirty persons,
has been erected on the bank of the Doon. The parish
is in the presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and
A5T, and patronage of the Crown. The minister's stipend
is £229. 17-j with a manse, and a glebe valued at £12. 10.
per annum. The church, situated near the village, was
rebuilt on the foundation of the ancient edifice, in 1764,
but in a very insufficient manner. The parochial school
affords education to about sixty scholars ; the master
has a salary of £30, with £25 fees, and £S in lieu of a
house and garden. There are some remains of the an-
cient castles of Kerse, Skeldon, Barbieston, and others ;
that of Barbieston was converted into a dwelling-house
about fifty years since. Part of a Roman road, sup-
posed to be that from Solway Frith to the Frith of
Clyde, may be traced through this parish into that of
Ayr. A tripod of Roman bronze was found in Lind-
ston loch, near the line of this road, about half a cen-
tury since ; and a flagon of earthenware of Roman
workmanship was found at Perclewan, on the same line
of road, in 1S33. On the road from Ayr to Maybole
are three ancient circular forts, situated on an elevated
ridge, and all surrounded with trenches, in which human
bones and the horns of deer have been discovered. A
stone coffin, containing a skeleton of large stature, was
dug up in cutting through a hillock of gravel to form a
new approach to Skeldon House ; and in the meadows
of Barbieston, not far from the same spot, were several
cairns, on the removal of which, human bones, heads of
pikes, and spears were found. In a grave in the church-
yard, several silver coins of James I. were found a few
years since ; and silver coins of Edward I. and III.
were discovered by the plough, in a field near the village,
in 1S35. The poet Burns, alternately with his brother,
attended the parochial school of Dalrymple.
DALSERF, a parish, in the Middle ward of the
county of Lanark ; including the villages of Millheugh,
Larkhall, and Rosebank, and containing 3205 inha-
bitants, of whom 112 are in the village of Dalserf,
7 miles (S. E. by E.) from Hamilton. This place is
supposed to derive its name from the Gaelic words
Dal, signifying "a holm" or "fiat field," and Sarf,
" a serpent," making together the term " the field of
serpents." The parish was anciently called Machaushire,
but. assumed the name of Dalserf, as is generally
thought, about the time of the Reformation, through
the removal of the church from its former site, at
Chapelburn, to the locality of the village of Dalserf.
It was originally an appendage and chapelrv of Cadzovv,
269
now Hamilton, parish, and was during a long period
the property of the crown. The celebrated family of
the Comyns had for some time possession of it ; but
it reverted to the crown in the reign of Baliol, and in
1312 Robert Bruce made a grant of it to Sir Walter,
son of Gilbert, ancestor of the Hamilton family, who
have retained the principal estates in the parish to the
present time. In the 14th century the district was
made a barony, called the barony of Machane or
Machanshire. The Hamiltons prominently appear in
Scottish history ; they warmly espoused the cause of
Mary, Queen of Scots, and several of them were engaged
in her wars, and afterwards suffered severely for the
part they had taken in them.
The parish is six and a half miles in extreme length,
and varies in breadth from two miles to four and a
half, containing 7219 acres ; it is bounded on the east
and north-east by the river Clyde, and on the west and
south-west by the Avon and Cander. The surface in
the centre of the parish is tolerably level ; but on the
east towards the Clyde, and on the west towards the
Avon, the fall is considerable, and in many places some-
what abrupt. The slope towards the north is conti-
nuous, and far more gradual than those on the eastern
and western sides. The view on the north and north-
west is terminated by the Campsie hills and the moun-
tains of Dumbarton and Argyllshire ; the view on the
south is bounded by Tinto, of which, with its circum-
jacent scenery, a very fine prospect may be had from
the high lands in this parish. Large quantities of
pheasants and woodcocks, and some black-cocks, are
seen here ; and at the close of autumn, many flocks of
plovers from the moorlands visit the wheat-fields. The
chief rivers are the Clyde and Avon ; the Cander, which
is the next in size, falls into the Avon, and gives the
name of the district of Cander to that part of the parish
inclosed by it, where there are some superior farms.
Numerous burns rise in the parish, and breaking forth
from the high ridge on the western side of the river
Clyde, dash in many places with great impetuosity over
the abrupt sandstone rocks, forming several beautiful
cascades. After this they run on till they fall into the
Clyde. The ravines formed by these waterfalls, which
are swollen in some parts of the year and frequently
dry in others, are clothed with foliage, and stretching
across the country obliquely to the two great rivers,
diversify the scenery, and add considerably to the
striking views on the Clyde. The river Avon, also,
has clusters of verdant knolls and many clumps of rich
plantation on its precipitous sides. The chief streams
contain salmon, trout, salmon-fry, and par- which,
however, bear at present no proportion to their former
numbers, owing to the machinery erected on the banks,
from which the residuum of chemical and dyeing opera-
tions runs into the waters ; the drainage of lime manure
from contiguous lands ; and the passage of steam-vessels.
The soil varies considerably throughout the parish.
The low ground in the neighbourhood of the rivers is
mostly rich alluvial deposit, consisting chiefly of sand
and mud of great depth, resting upon a subsoil of sand
and gravel. In the higher lands near the Glasgow and
Carlisle road, and by the village of Dalserf, which
stands about 120 feet above the level of the sea, the
soil is a strong heavy clay, lying upon a compact tena-
cious subsoil of till. In some places are strips of sandy
D A L S
D A LT
earth ; and in others, especially near the Avon, the
grounds are chiefly loam. The southern part contains
a few acres of moss ; but, with this exception, the
whole parish is cultivated. The chief crops are wheat
and oats, the soil in general not being considered suited
to green crops, though in some parts very good pota-
toes, turnips, carrots, and beet-root are produced. The
farmers pay great attention to dairy-farming ; the cows
are chiefly of the Ayrshire breed, and about 500 are
kept. Much competition exists in the improvement of
every description of live stock, for which premiums
have been awarded to some of the farmers by the
Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland. The cul-
tivation of orchards also forms an important part of the
rural occupations, the parish being situated in about
the centre of the great range of fruit plantations in
Clydesdale. A few acres of fruit-trees are cultivated
on the banks of the Avon ; but the chief plantations
are near the Clyde, among the acclivities overlooking
the river, which are too abrupt and rugged to admit
the approach of the plough. Apples, pears, and plums
of every kind grow luxuriantly, the plum range, how-
ever, only extending a distance of three or four miles
along the river. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £7704. The rocks consist of sandstone and free-
stone, of the latter of which several excellent quarries
are wrought. Large quantities of coal, also, are ob-
tained in every direction, the district forming a part
of the great coal basin stretching from near Glasgow
in the north, for a distance of about thirty miles, to
the water of Douglas in the south. The produce of the
collieries, some years ago, was about 16,000 tons an-
nually ; but it is now much more considerable.
The chief mansions are, Dalserf, Millburn, and Broom-
hill, all of which are respectable structures, standing in
the midst of beautiful scenery. The villages are consi-
derable, and together contain about two-thirds of the
population of the parish. Some of the inhabitants are
engaged in the manufacture of cotton, the weaving of
which is superintended by agents employed by Glasgow
firms ; and many females are occupied in the manu-
facture of lace, for the houses at Hamilton. Among
the roads that intersect the parish are, one from Glas-
gow to Carlisle, another from Glasgow to Lanark, and
a third from Edinburgh to Ayr, which crosses the river
Clyde at Garion Bridge. The ecclesiastical affairs
are subject to the presbytery of Hamilton and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. There is an old manse, with a
glebe worth £37. 1 0. per annum ; the stipend is
£264. 12., and the Duke of Hamilton is patron. The
church, which is beautifully though somewhat incon-
veniently situated on the bank of the Clyde, was built
in 1655, and repaired in 1721 ; it contains 550 sittings.
There are two parochial schools, one of which is in the
village of Dalserf, and the other at Larkhall ; the
classics, mathematics, French, with all the usual branches
of education, are taught, and the master of the Dalserf
school has a salary of £34, with a house and garden.
A good subscription library has been established at
Larkhall, and another at Dalserf with 120 volumes.
The chief relics of antiquity are two tumuli, in one of
which, situated at Dalpatrick, some workmen a few
years ago found a stone coffin, about two feet and a half
long, and a foot and a half wide, in which was deposited
an urn containing a human jaw with the teeth, and
270
other bones. Another urn was also found, of very
superior materials and construction, near which was a
lamp of baked clay. The remains of mounds with for-
tifications, and cairns, may still be faintly traced ; and
some years ago an earthen pot was dug up at Mill-
heugh, containing coins of Elizabeth, James I., and
Charles I. There are several chalybeate springs in
the parish, and one or two impregnated with sulphur.
DALSHOLM, a village, in the parish of New Kil-
patrick, county of Dumbarton ; containing 111 inha-
bitants.
DALSWINTON, a village, in the parish of Kirkma-
hoe, county of Dumfries, 4^ miles (N. N. W.) from
Dumfries ; containing 94 inhabitants. It is situated in
the western part of the parish, and though a small, is an
improving village, of recent origin. Here stood the
ancient castle of Dalswinton, long the chief seat of the
family of Cumming, and on the site of which an elegant
and commodious mansion was erected by the late
Patrick Miller, Esq., to whose taste and judgment the
neighbourhood is indebted for its rapid improvement.
Mr. Miller, about the year 17S0, introduced the culture
of the Swedish turnip. It was first sown by him on his
estate at Dalswinton, and propagated from his original
plants through the Lothians and elsewhere ; and to his
example is owing the successful cultivation of this valu-
able esculent throughout the empire. The first applica-
tion of the steam-engine to the purposes of navigation,
was made by Mr. Miller in 17SS, on a piece of water in
his own grounds here. A vessel twenty-five feet long
and seven broad, with two wheels, and propelled by a
small engine constructed by Mr. Symington, was em-
ployed for the purpose ; and the success of the experi-
ment led to the well-known exhibition, under the same
auspices, of a full-sized vessel, on the Forth and Clyde
canal, in the following year. The fine estate of Dalswin-
ton is now in the possession of Captain Miller, son of
this gentleman, and formerly the representative of the
county in parliament.
DALTON, a parish, in the county of Dumfries ;
containing 638 inhabitants, of whom 54 are in the village,
6 miles (W. by S.) from Ecclesfechan. The name is
derived from the Anglo-Saxon term Dal-ton, or Dal-dun,
signifying " the fort in the dale," and appears to have
been applied on account of a fort in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of the village of Dalton, at which village
baronial courts were held in ancient times. The parish
is seven miles long, from north to south, and three broad,
and contains 6753 acres. It is bounded on the north-
east by the river Annan, in which great quantities
of salmon, grilse, sea-trout, and whiting are taken,
though they are far from being so numerous as formerly,
in consequence of stake-nets having been placed at the
mouth of the river, in the Sol way Frith. The surface
presents considerable variety of features. The soil to
a great extent is alluvial, consisting chiefly of gravel and
sand, spread over the lowlands, and formed into ranges
and groups of little hills. In the higher lands the soil
is mainly composed of the waste and debris of the tran-
sition rocks, but is tolerably fertile, and the transported
soil on the banks of the river is exceedingly productive.
The whole is cultivated, with the exception of 600 acres,
which are waste or pasture, and 517 acres underwood;
all kinds of crops are raised, and the improved system
of husbandry is adopted, though greatly varied by differ-
D A L Z
D A L Z
ent farmers in the rotation of crops. The cattle are the
black Galloway, and the few sheep reared consist of Che-
viots and Leicesters. The produce of the soil is usually
sent to Annan, seven miles distant, where is aweekly mar-
ket. The rateable annual value of the parish is £4031.
Among the mansions is that of Rammerscales, which
occupies a romantic site upon a hilly range, surrounded
with overhanging wood, and commanding the whole
vale of Annan. The chief house, however, Dormont,
built in 1S23, an elegant structure, is situated on the
bank of the Annan, and ornamented with beautiful
grounds and plantations ; and another seat, also on the
river, and like the preceding, of modern erection, is
entitled to notice. The principal village is Dalton, the
communication of which with the nearest, market-towns
is convenient, not only by the parish roads, but by the
great turnpike-road from Carlisle to Portpatriek, which
passes through the south end of the parish. The eccle-
siastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of Lochma-
ben and synod of Dumfries ; patron, David Sandeman,
Esq. The stipend is £171. 12 , and there is a manse,
with a glebe of ten acres, valued at £10 per annum.
The church, situated in the village, was built in 1/04,
and will accommodate 300 persons. There is a paro-
chial school, at which French, the classics, and practical
mathematics, with the usual branches of education, are
taught ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house
and garden, and about £20 fees. The only relics of
antiquity are, the ruins of a castle at Holmains, formerly
the residence of the Carruthers, and a camp of circular
form on the Almagill hills, now named Range Castle.
The latter stands upon a transition rock of greywacke,
and is a beautiful specimen of this class of military
works ; its diameter is 102 yards, and the fosse which
encompasses it is nine feet deep, and twenty-seven broad.
The late Sir Andrew Halliday, physician to the Duke of
Clarence, afterwards William IV., was a native of the
parish.
DALVAIT, a village, in the parish of Bonhill,
count}' of Dumbarton ; containing 71 inhabitants.
DALZIEL, a parish, in the Middle ward of the county
of Lanark, <&\ miles (E.N. E.) from Hamilton; con-
taining, with the villages of Motherwell and Windmill-
Hill, 1457 inhabitants. The parish of Dalziel is by
some writers supposed to have derived that appellation,
signifying " the white meadow," from the peculiar
appearance of the lands before they were brought into
cultivation. It is said to have given name to the family
upon whom the barony of Dalziel was bestowed by
Kenneth II., in recompense of some exploit performed
by them in the service of that monarch. In 1365, Sir
Robert Dalziel obtained a grant of the barony of Selkirk
from David Bruce, whose firm adherent he had been in
his troubles, and to whom he manifested the truest
loyalty during the king's captivity in England ; but the
whole estates were subsequently forfeited in that reign,
and conferred upon the Sandiland family. By marriage,
however, with one of the coheiresses, the barony of
Dalziel returned into the possession of the family, then
represented by the grandson of the original proprietor,
Sir Robert Dalziel. This personage was created Lord
Dalziel by Charles I., and subsequently bought the
whole of the estate ; but, having afterwards purchased
the lands of Carnwath from James, Earl of Buchan, and
been created, in 1639, Earl of Carnwath, he sold this
271
estate to James Hamilton, Esq., whose descendant is the
present proprietor.
The parish is bounded on the north and west by the
river Calder, and on the south-west by the river Clyde;
it is about four miles in length, and three in breadth,
comprising 2283 Scottish acres, of which about one-
tenth is pasture, 410 acres woodland and plantations,
and the remainder arable. The surface rises gradually
from the Clyde and the Calder towards the centre,
where it forms a flat ridge, averaging 200 feet in eleva-
tion above the sea ; and it is diversified with several
glens of romantic appearance, of which one, called Dal-
ziel glen, is about two miles in length. The river Clyde
is subject to great inundations, to prevent which an em-
bankment has been constructed ; the Calder, which is
here about sixty feet in breadth, takes its rise in the
neighbouring parish of Shotts, and falls into the Clyde
near the extremity of this parish. The Dalziel burn has
its source in the parish of Cambusnethan, and, flowing
through the glen of Dalziel, falls into the Clyde. The
soil is generally a stiff clay, but on the banks of the
rivers a rich loam ; the crops are, oats, wheat, beans, and
peas. There are several large dairy-farms ; the cows
are chiefly of the Ayrshire breed, and a few horses and
sheep are reared. On the banks of the Clyde are several
orchards, the principal of which produces on an average
about £600 per annum ; an improved method of pruning
has been introduced with success, and great attention is
paid to the cultivation of the trees. The plantations
consist of fir, larch, oak, ash, elm, lime, and plane; a
fine avenue nearly a mile in length extends along the
banks of the Clyde, and near the mansion-house of
Dalziel is a venerable oak, measuring twenty-one feet in
girth at a distance of nearly five feet from the ground.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £4983.
The substratum of the lands is principally clay-slate,
interspersed with freestone of various quality, among
which is found a seam of flagstone. A quarry of hard-
grained freestone has been opened near Windmill-
Hill, which is wrought into mantel-pieces, and is sus-
ceptible of a high polish ; and near the village of Craig-
neuk is a valuable quary of flagstone, of a reddish colour,
and varying from one-quarter of an inch to five inches
in thickness. Coal abounds in the parish, which is
situated nearly in the centre of the coal district of the
Clyde; the only mine in operation is near Coursington.
Dalziel House, erected in 1649, by an ancestor of the
present proprietor, is beautifully situated on the north
side of the Dalziel burn, and in the most picturesque
part of the romantic glen to which that stream gives
name. The building has all the character of an ancient
baronial residence, and attached to it is a tower about
fifty feet high, the walls of which are eight feet thick ;
the several apartments are commodious, and in the
dining-room are numerous family portraits, among
which are those of Sir John Hamilton, of Orbiston, and
Lord Westhall, one of the senators of the Callege of
Justice. There is a small foundry for the manufacture
of spades, in which about fifteen persons are employed.
Means of communication with the neighbouring mar-
ket-towns are afforded by good roads, among which is
one from Glasgow to Lanark ; and the Wishaw and
Coltness railway passes for nearly three miles through
the parish, and greatly facilitates the conveyance of the
produce.
DARL
D A V I
The parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of
J. G. C. Hamilton, Esq. The minister's stipend is
£155. 11., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £50 per
annum. The church, dedicated to St. Patrick, was in
the twelfth century granted, together with its revenues,
to the abbey of Paisley, and subsequently to the dean
and chapter of Glasgow, in whose possession it con-
tinued to the Reformation. The ancient building, which
was of the same date as the cathedral of Glasgow, was
taken down about ten years after the erection of the pre-
sent church, which was built in 17S9, and is a neat cru-
ciform structure. The members of the Free Church
have a place of worship. The parochial school affords a
good education ; the master has a salary of £34, with
£18 fees, and a house and garden. The western branch
of the Roman Watling-street entered this parish at
Meadowhead, and passed through it in a direction from
east to west. Till within the last twenty years a consi-
derable portion of it remained, in a high state of preser-
vation; but it has been obliterated by the construction
of the modern road from Glasgow to Lanark, and no
trace of it can be at present discerned. Near the north-
west boundary of the parish is a very ancient bridge
over the river Calder, still called the Roman bridge ;
it consists of a single arch of great height, is about
twelve feet in breadth, and without parapets. This
bridge is supposed to have formed a continuation of the
Roman road into the parish of Bothwell. Close to it-
was a Roman camp, which has for many years been des-
troyed ; and nearly in the centre of the parish, on the
steep bank of the river Clyde, are the remains of another,
of which portions of the ancient fosses may still be
traced. On the site of this camp, about a century since,
the proprietor erected a summer-house, round which
he formed terrace- walks and plantations, and from the
summit of which a fine panoramic view of the surround-
ing country is obtained, combining many of the most
interesting features of Scottish scenery. Near the site
of Nisbet House, is one of the stones at which the ancient
barons dispensed justice to their vassals; it is of hepta-
gonal form, and one of the faces is ornamented with the
representation of a sword. There were formerly two
others in the parish, near the site of the Roman road ;
they have both been removed.
DAMHEAD, or Jametson, Dumbarton. — See
Jametson.
DAMHEAD, a village, in the parish of Arngask,
counties of Fife, Kinross, and Perth, 5 miles (S. W.)
from Abernethy ; containing 138 inhabitants, of whom
56 are in the Fifeshire, 24 in the Kinross-shire, and 58
in the Perthshire, portion. This village is situated in
the central part of the parish, and in the vale through
which the great north road passes, leading from Edin-
burgh to Aberdeen, by way of Perth. A sub-post-office
was established here in 1838, in connexion with the
post-offices of Kinross and Bridge-of-Earn.
DANESHALT, county Fife.— See Dunshelt.
DARGIE, a hamlet, in the parish of Liff, county
of Perth, 3 miles (W.) from Dundee ; containing 32
inhabitants. It is in that portion of the parish which
formed the ancient parish of Invergowrie, now united,
with Benvie, to Liff; and is about a mile west-by-south
of Invergowrie church.
DARLINGSHAUGH, a village, in the late quoad
272
sacra parish of Ladhope, parish of Melrose, county
of Roxburgh, 4 miles (W.) from Melrose; containing
1116 inhabitants. This village is beautifully situated on
the Gala water, and, though within the parish of Mel-
rose, may be regarded as an appendage to Galashiels,
in the manufactures of which a considerable number of
the population is employed. A comfortable school-house
has been built by the heritors.
DARNICK, a village, in the parish and district of
Melrose, county of Roxburgh, 1 mile from Melrose;
containing 2S0 inhabitants. It is pleasantly seated in
the vale of Melrose, and the population is chiefly em-
ployed in agriculture. A school-house has been built by
the heritors for the instruction of the poorer children.
DARVEL, a village, in the parish of Loudoun, dis-
trict of Cunninghame, county of Ayr, 1^ mile (E.)
from Newmilns ; containing 1362 inhabitants. This is
a considerable place, and it would seem that several
lands here formerly belonged to the Knights Templars,
as many of them still bear the name of Temple, and do
not hold of any superior, not even of the crown. A
large part of the population is engaged in hand-loom
weaving, the children assisting in the minor branches
of the manufacture. The Reformed Presbyterians have
a place of worship ; and there is a school partly sup-
ported by the Marchioness of Hastings, and of which
the master is allowed a dwelling-house and garden.
Near the village is a place called Glen Chapel, but there
remains no vestige of a religious edifice ; and in the
vicinity are the ruins of an ancient castle.
DAVID, ST., a village and sea-port, in the parish of
Dalgety, district of Dunfermline, county of Fife,
1 mile (E. N. E.) from North Queensferry ; containing
155 inhabitants. This little sea-port, which is situated
on the Frith of Forth, owes its origin to the Fordel
collieries, in the parish, belonging to Admiral Sir P. H.
Durham, G.C.B., by whom great improvements have
been made in it, for the more expeditious and convenient
shipping of the coal. The harbour, which, from what
remains of the original works, seems to have been badly
constructed, has been improved by the proprietor at an
expense of £2000, and now affords safe anchorage to
ships of 500 tons' burthen, which may load and deliver
their cargoes on the beach. There are also extensive
salt-works : the salt water, at flood-tides, is forced by a
steam-engine into a capacious reservoir, whence, after
depositing its residuum of sand, it is conveyed in a
purified state into large pans, producing annually about
30,000 bushels of salt.
DAVID, ST., a hamlet, in the parish of Maderty,
county of Perth ; containing 65 inhabitants.
DAVIDSONS-MAINS, a village, in the parish of
Cramond, county of Edinburgh, 2| miles (N. N. W.)
from Edinburgh ; containing 470 inhabitants. This
place, also called Muttonhole, is situated on the road
from Edinburgh to Cramond, and in its vicinity is
Muirhouse, the seat of Dr. Davidson, who allows the
teacher of a school a salary often guineas per annum.
DAVIOT, a parish, in the district of Garioch,
county of Aberdeen, 4 miles (N. W.) from Old Mel-
drum ; containing 643 inhabitants. This parish is sup-
posed to derive its name from the Gaelic term dabhoch,
which signifies a piece of land sufficient for the pasture
of a certain number of cows. Its length is about three
miles, and the average breadth two ; but it was aug-
DAVI
DA VI
merited ecclesiastically by act of assembly at the close
of the 17th century, by the annexation of parts of the
parishes of Fyvie and Chapel of Garioch, and, includ-
ing this addition, it covers about eight and a half square
miles. The civil parish comprises 5250 acres, of which
the whole is in tillage, with the exception of a few acres
in wood, and a little moss. The surface is agreeably
diversified by a ridge of gentle undulations, passing
through the centre, from north to south, and accom-
panied on each side by a ridge of inferior elevation,
also slightly undulated. The soil exhibits several varie-
ties ; that on the higher grounds is thin and gravelly,
and on the descent a rich loamy earth rests on a clayey
subsoil, while the lower parts are to a considerable ex-
tent covered with a shallow peaty soil, incumbent on a
blueish clay. Every sort of grain, with the exception of
wheat, is raised, of good quality, but the soil is best
adapted to oats, and several kinds are largely cultivated,
especially those denominated Scotch barley and the
early Angus ; and green crops of all descriptions grow
luxuriantly. Very few sheep are reared, but much
attention is paid to cattle, in consequence of the facili-
ties afforded by steam navigation for sending them to
the London market ; the breed was formerly the Aber-
deenshire, but a great improvement has been made
within these few years, by crossing these with the
short-horned. The seven years' rotation is generally
practised, and modern usages of husbandry have been
introduced ; much waste land has been drained and
cultivated, and there is now very little remaining. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £3250.
The substrata comprise whinstone and inferior granite,
and ironstone exists in considerable quantities, but the
distance from coal-mines renders the working of it im-
practicable. The plantations consist chiefly of Scotch
fir and larch, which, however, rarely attain to a great
size, manifesting symptoms of decay at about the age of
forty years. Beech, elm, and ash are in some parts in-
terspersed with the fir ; and trees of this description
appear to be better suited to the soil, and grow in some
places in a very thriving manner, especially around the
mansion of Glack, besides which residence there is a
handsome mansion in the parish on the estate of Fin-
gask, built in 1834. The inhabitants are engaged in
husbandry, with the exception of a very small number
who work at a manufactory for carding and spinning
wool, which was some time since established here by an
enterprising individual to whom the board for the en-
couragement of manufactures granted a premium for
his exertions. There is considerable facility of commu-
'nication : a road runs past the church from north to
south, and in the latter direction forms two branches,
the one leading to Old Meldrum, and the other to In-
verury five miles distant. A turnpike-road, also, tra-
versing the east and north sides of the parish, was
formed in 1S35, to connect the east and west branches
of the great north road from Aberdeen to Inverness,
and runs from Old Meldrum to Sheeiagreen, in the
parish of Culsamond ; and another road was finished
in 1S39, on which a daily coach travels between
Aberdeen and Huntly. The parish is in the pres-
bytery of Garioch and synod of Aberdeen, and in
the patronage of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is
£159, of which about a sixth is received from the ex-
chequer, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £12 per
Vol. I.— 2/3
annum. The parish was formerly in the diocese of
Aberdeen, and is said to have been given by Malcolm
Canmore to the bishop ; the present church was built in
1798, and accommodates 400 persons. The parochial
school affords instruction in the classics, mathematics,
and book-keeping, in addition to the elementary branches;
the master has a salary of £30, with a house, and £20
fees ; he also shares in the Dick bequest. The prin-
cipal relic of antiquity is a Druidical temple in fine
preservation, on the lands of Mounie, near the church.
A battle-axe was dug up in 1833, supposed to have been
used at the battle of Harlaw, fought in 1411, in the
adjoining parish of Garioch ; and some years since, a
silver coin of the reign of Elizabeth, a little larger than
a shilling, was found in a garden, on the site of the old
manse.
DAVIOT and DUNLICHTY, a parish, chiefly in
the county of Inverness, but partly in that of Nairn,
5 miles (S. E.) from Inverness; containing 1681 inha-
bitants. These two ancient parishes were united about
the year 1618 : the former received its appellation, as
is supposed, from David, Earl of Crawfurd, who built
a fort here ; and the latter, which is by far the larger,
derives its name from the term dun-le-catti, or " the hill
of the Catti," which bisects the territory formerly held
by the Catti, whose descendants now possess nearly
the whole lands. At Tordarroch, in the parish of Dun-
lichty, the Earl of Moray caused 200 men of the clan
Chattan to be hanged in a barn in one day, about the
year 1532, for various acts of spoliation committed in
his territory. They had been captured by stratagem,
the earl having assembled them under pretence of hold-
ing a feudal court ; and to each, while being led to the
gallows, pardon was offered, upon condition of their
betraying Hector Mackintosh, under whose command
they had acted. The greater part of the moor where
the celebrated and decisive battle of Culloden was
fought on the 1 6th of April, 1746, is situated in this
parish, as well as the spot on which the prince stood
during the engagement ; and the prince afterwards, with
a few friends, crossed the river Nairn above the mains
of Daviot, and, passing by Tordarroch, advanced to
Gorthleck, in Stratherrick.
The parish, the boundary line of which is very irre-
gular, stretches along each side of the river Nairn, from
north-east to south-west, for about twenty-five miles,
and varies in breadth from one and a half to four or five
miles ; it comprises about 4000 acres under cultivation,
1500 natural pasture, 830 of natural wood, and above
2-270 of plantations. The surface is altogether wild and
dreary, and consists principally of the valley of Strath-
nairn, extending from Wester Aberchalder on the south-
west, to the bridge of Daviot on the Highland road,
where it contracts itself almost to a point, and termi-
nates in a steep narrow glen. The hills on the south-
eastern boundary are a continued chain, forming the
northern range of the Munadh-Leagh mountains, and
attain an elevation of from 1000 to 2000 feet above the
level of the sea. The boundary on the west and north-
west consists of an abrupt ridge 1500 feet high, contain-
ing a series of lakes, some of them celebrated for their
delicious trout ; and on the north and north-eastern
limit is a sandstone ridge called Drimmashie or Drum-
mossie moor, at the eastern end of which the battle of
Culloden was fought. The scenery is generally unin-
2N
DEAN
DEAN
terestiug, though occasionally romantic ; the mountains
are either bare rock, or covered with coarse grass, and
the lower grounds are to a considerable extent mossy
tracts, shaded by sombre woods and plantations. The
stream of the Nairn, however, introduces some variety,
and, in its course to the town of Nairn, where it falls
into the Moray Frith, after a course of thirty-six miles
from its source at. Cairn- Gregor, in the south-west part
of Dunlichty, renders the aspect of the district in many
places agreeable and interesting.
The soil exhibits several varieties, being in some
parts light and sandy, in others wet and spongy, with a
clayey bottom ; and frequently black mossy earth is
seen, with different admixtures and modifications. The
crops which succeed best are oats and barley ; but since
the recent improvements in husbandry by the leading
proprietors, comprising draining, liming, inclosing, and
the rotation system of cropping, wheat of good quality
has been grown, and the agricultural character of the
parish has attained a respectable footing. Many earthen
embankments, also, have been raised along the river,
as a security against floods, which have sometimes done
much damage to the lands. The rocks consist chiefly
of gneiss, in the hills bounding the valley ; and large
blocks of white granite, conglomerate, red and grey
granite, and limestone are found, though the last has
not been wrought. A bed of marl, which has been suc-
cessfully used as manure, was lately discovered on the
south bank of Loch Bunachton, about seven feet below
the surface, and having a depth of from five to six feet.
The old plantations are of common Scotch fir, with a
few larches, and cover 1020 acres ; there are others
formed of Scotch fir, larch, ash, oak, and beech. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £5288. The seats
are, Daviot, a commodious modern structure ; the
house of Farr, which has lately received some elegant
additions ; and Aberarder, also a modern mansion.
The road from Edinburgh to Inverness passes through
the parish, and with the latter town the inhabitants
carry on their chief traffic. The parish is in the pres-
bytery of Inverness and synod of Moray, and in the
patronage of the Crown and Earl Cawdor, alternately ;
the minister's stipend is £187, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £ 1 0 per annum. There are two churches,
about seven miles distant from each other, in which
public worship is usually performed alternately. The
church at Daviot is about four miles from the eastern,
and that at Dunlichty twelve miles from the western,
boundary ; the former, with seats for 500 persons, was
built in 1826, at a cost of nearly £1000 ; and the latter,
containing seats for 300 persons, was built in 1759, and
repaired in 1826. There are also an episcopal chapel,
and a place of worship for members of the Free Church.
A parochial school is situated in each of the districts,
and affords instruction in the ordinary branches ; the
salary of each master is £25, with £11 and £9 fees,
respectively. The poor receive the interest of £400,
left by William Macgillivray in 1833. Near the man-
sion of Daviot, is the ruin of a seat which appears to
have been originally of great strength ; and there are in
several places remains of Druidical temples.
DEAN, formerly a quoad sacra parish, partly in the
parish of Corstorphine, but chiefly in that of St.
Cuthbert, city and county of Edinburgh ; contain-
ing 2262 inhabitants, of whom 108 are in Corstorphine,
274
and 2154 in St. Cuthbert's. This place, now somewhat
decayed, is situated on the north bank of the Water of
Leith, and forms a western suburb of the city of Edin-
burgh, from which it is distant about three-quarters of a
mile. The village is on the Edinburgh and Queensferry
road, on both sides of which it once stood. In its vici-
nity is Dean bridge, a superb and stupendous structure,
thrown over the ravine of the Water of Leith, and hav-
ing four arches, each ninety feet in span, and of corre-
sponding height from the stream ; it was completed in
1831, and from it is presented one of the finest views
in the neighbourhood of the city. Dean House here,
is a venerable mansion surrounded with fine old trees,
which failed not to attract the notice of Sir Walter
Scott. The parish was under the presbytery of Edin-
burgh and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The church,
erected in 1836, is in the later English style, and con-
tains 1030 sittings, of which thirty are free; the stipend
of the minister is £80, arising from seat-rents and col-
lections. There is an episcopal chapel, and a place of wor-
ship has been erected for members of the Free Church.
DEAN, a village, in the parish of Wilton, district
of Hawick, county of Roxburgh, 1 mile (W.) from
Hawick; containing 129 inhabitants. It is seated in
the southern part of the parish, and on a small stream,
a tributary to the Teviot, which latter bounds the parish
on the south-east.
DEANBURNHAUGH, a village, in the parish of
Roberton, county of Roxburgh, S miles (W. by S.)
from Hawick ; containing 86 inhabitants. This place
is of very recent origin ; it is pleasantly situated on the
road from Eskdalemuir to Hawick, and on the west
side of the Borthwick water. The surrounding scenery
is agreeably diversified.
DEANSTON, formerly a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Kilmadock, county of Perth ; including the
hamlet of Murdochston, and containing 1050 inhabit-
ants, of whom 982 are in the village of Deanston, 1 mile
(W.) from Doune. This place appears to have ori-
ginated in the establishment of some cotton-works on
the south bank of the Teith, for which that copious and
powerful stream afforded ample advantages, and in the
consequent erection of a spacious village for the resi-
dence of the men employed in the concern. The village,
which consists of one wide street, running parallel to
the river, is regularly built ; the houses are two stories
high, with attics, and are roofed with slate, and
whitewashed, having a cleanly and cheerful aspect, and
attached to each of them is a neat garden. The works
were established about the year 17S6, by Messrs.
Buchanan, of Carston, brothers, the eldest of whom
was the first agent of Sir Richard Arkwright in Glasgow
for the sale of cotton-twist ; and under his superintend-
ence the works soon rose into importance for the spin-
ning of yarn, equal to the finest which has since been
produced at Manchester. In 1793, the works became
the property of Mr. Flounders, of the county of York,
and subsequently of James Finlay and Co., of Glasgow,
under whom they were remodelled by Mr. Smith, a
nephew of Mr. Buchanan; and in 1S22, the company
made arrangements with the neighbouring proprietors,
and obtained an additional quantity of water-power.
The works are at present driven by four water-wheels, of
eighty-horse power each, and afford employment to
800 persons ; the whole of the establishment is lighted
DEER
DEER
with gas, and thoroughly ventilated. Attached is a
schoolroom, erected by the company, who keep a mas-
ter to instruct the children employed in the factory,
who attend the school for three hours daily.
DEE, BRIDGE OF, a village, in the parish of Bal-
maghie, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 3 miles (S. W.)
from Castle-Douglas ; containing 243 inhabitants. It
derives its name from a bridge over the river Dee,
which bounds the parish on the east, and separates it
from the parish of Kelton. The lands in the neigh-
bourhood are the property of the Society for the Propa-
gation of Christian Knowledge.
DEER, NEW, a parish, in the district of Deer,
county of Aberdeen, 6 miles (E. S. E.) from Cumines-
town ; containing, with the village of Kirktown of New
Deer, 3756 inhabitants. This parish originally formed
a part of Old Deer, and was separated from it in the
early part of the seventeenth century ; it was at first
termed Auchreddy, from the land on which the church
is built, and this name is engraved on the communion-
plate, with the date 1694. The remains of castles and
various tumuli, prove that it was once the scene of
military operations. Edward, brother to Robert Bruce,
is said to have encamped after the battle of Inverury on
a large moor about a mile to the west of the village, and
thence to have gone, in pursuit of the Cumyns, to
Aikey-Brae, near Old Deer, on which spot a fair has
long been kept in commemoration of a battle fought
between them. The old castle of Fedderate, at present
in ruins, is believed to have been the retreat of some
followers of James II. who, being driven from Fyvie
Castle, which they had taken after the battle of Killie-
crankie, sought a refuge in this fortress, from which,
however, they were expelled by King William's troops.
The parish, which is one of the largest in the county,
is upwards of fourteen miles long, and eight and a half
broad, and contains 29,020 acres. With the exception
of Mormond hill, it is the highest ground in Buchan,
its elevation being from 200 to 300 feet above the sea.
On a fine day, the spire of Peterhead church, about
eighteen miles to the east, may be seen from the hill of
Culsh ; and westward, Bennachie, nearly twenty-eight
miles distant, the Foudland hills, the hills near Banff and
Cullen, and Benrinnes, in the county of Banff, are dis-
tinctly visible. The surface is in general fiat, and the
elevation of the land renders the climate cold, the ope-
rations of husbandry being frequently delayed by the
snow remaining on the ground. Three branch streams
rise in the northern quarter of the parish, one of which
flows eastward, passing Old Deer, and falling into the
river Ugie ; another, running in a westerly direction,
forms a confluence with a stream which falls into the
Doveran, and the third, flowing towards the south-
west, joins the Ythan, near Gight. The soil is light,
and rests partly upon a subsoil of moss on coarse clay,
in other places on granite, but chiefly on a bed of from
six inches to two feet thick, altogether rocky and im-
pervious, and holding the water that falls upon the land
till evaporated by the heat of the sun. Almost the
whole of the parish is arable, and the chief grain culti-
vated is oats ; potatoes and bay are grown in large
quantities, as are also turnips. The number of acres un-
der tillage is IS, 183 ; 1957 are in pasture, 3587 heath,
4164 moss and moor, and S25 under wood. The system
of cultivation differs in the several parts of the parish,
275
a five years' rotation of crops being adopted in some
places, and in others a seven years' course ; the Buchan
breed of cows is much esteemed, especially when crossed
by the Teeswater. Considerable improvements have
been made by several of the large farmers, chiefly in
reclaiming extensive tracts of wet ground ; and the
farm-houses, though still in some parts indifferent, are
on a much better footing than formerly. The rocks
consist of coarse granite and inferior limestone, which
latter the farmers excavate for themselves, and burn for
the purposes of building or agriculture. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £10,905.
The village, which is situated on the summit of a hill,
contains upwards of 100 houses ; and seven fairs are held
in it, viz., one in Jan., one in April, a feeing market in
May, markets in June, August, and October, and a fee-
ing market in November, at all of which cattle, sheep,
horses, and country produce are sold ; but the grain
is chiefly sent to Peterhead, Fraserburgh, and Banff.
There is a good road to Ellon, thirteen miles distant,
and the turnpike-road from Peterhead to Banff crosses
the parish. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to
the presbytery of Deer and synod of Aberdeen ; patron,
the Crown. The stipend of the minister is £219, with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum. The
old church was built in 1622, and an aisle was added to
it in 1773. In 1838, however, another church was
erected, at a cost of about £3000 ; it is a neat edifice in
the later English style, and affords accommodation for
1600 persons. At Savock is a chapel of ease built in
1834, at a cost of £S19, and which contains 700 sit-
tings. The parish also contains three meeting-houses
belonging to the United Secession, and one just
erected in connexion with the Free Church. There are
three parochial schools, situated respectively at Kirk-
town, Savock, and Whitehill, in which are taught the
classics, mathematics, and all the usual branches of
education ; the salary of each master is £24, and the
amount of their fees collectively is about £60 : between
£20 and £30 are also received by each from the Dick
bequest. A bursary for a scholar of the name of Cruick-
shank or Topp, at Marischal College, of the value of £9.
is in the gift of the incumbent. The relics of antiquity
in the parish consist of the remains of castles, Druidical
temples, and tumuli; and urns of baked clay, containing
human bones and ashes, have been found. About a
mile from the village, in the northern quarter, formerly
stood a circular heap called the Standing Stones of
Culsh, and the place still retains the name, though the
stones were taken away seventy years ago, to supply
materials for building. A little farther, in the same di-
rection, are the ruins of the castle of Fedderate, the
best stones of which have also been removed for the
purpose of building. It is supposed to have been a
place of great strength, and was in various hands at the
time of the Revolution in 1 688.
DEER, OLD, a parish, 10 miles (W.) from Peter-
head, partly in the district of Deer, county of Aber-
deen, including the villages of Stuartfield and Old
Deer; and partly in the county of Banff, including the
village of Fetterangus ; the whole containing 4453 inha-
bitants. The name appears to be derived from a Gaelic
word signifying the worship of God, perhaps applied
on account of the first Christian church in the district
of Buchan having been erected here. The remains of
2 N 2
DEER
DEER
antiquity in the parish throw considerable light upon
its primitive history : the vestiges of four or five Druid-
ical temples are still visible, and numerous others were
removed at no very remote period, in order to facilitate
the extended operations of agriculture. On the north
side of the hill of Parkhouse, also, there were until lately
the remains of a small village, supposed to have been
occupied by the Druids, but usually called the Picts'
houses by the neighbouring peasantry. On the summit of
Bruxie steep, and at Den of Howie, near Fetterangus, are
some traces of fortifications and encampments, affording
evident proof of military operations in ancient times j
and in the vicinity of Aikey-Brae, are several tumuli
reported to be the cemeteries of warriors who fell in a
sanguinary conflict between Edward, brother of Robert
Bruce, and Cumyn, Earl of Buchan. Deer is also
remarkable as the site of a distinguished abbey, founded
about the beginning of the thirteenth century, by the
Earl of Buchan, and first held by a company of Cister-
cian monks from the abbey of Kinloss, in Moray. This
abbey was suppressed at the time of the proscription of
religious houses, and erected into a temporal lordship in
favour of Robert, the earl-marischal's second son, cre-
ated Lord Altrie j but that nobleman dying without issue,
the title became extinct, and the estate was incorporated
with that of the head of the family. A very considerable
demesne was attached to the abbey, and its revenue
amounted to £572. 8. 6. in money, and sixty-five chal-
ders, seven bolls, one firlot, three pecks of meal, fourteen
bolls of wheat, and fourteen chalders and ten bolls of
bear.
The parish, or rather the main portion of it, in
Aberdeenshire, measures in mean length about nine
and a half miles, and about four and a half in breadth,
and contains upwards of 25,000 acres, of which about
three-fourths are under tillage or in pasture, 2000 acres
are occupied by growing wood, and the remainder is
peat-moss, moor, and waste. It is bounded on the west
by the parish of New Deer. The surface is altogether
undulated, being marked by a succession of hills and
valleys of various extent and form, many of which
are clothed with verdure, or ornamented with small
clumps of wood, and the lower lands are intersected by
numerous rivulets. Deer, wild geese and ducks, par-
tridges, woodcocks, and snipes, and large quantities of
rabbits, are found in different parts. The chief streams
are two tributaries of the Ugie, which form a confluence
in the parish of Longside, and fall into the sea about a
mile north-west of Peterhead : the black trout with
which they abound supply abundant sport to the lovers
of angling. The soil differs to a considerable extent,
being in some parts mixed with large portions of sand,
and in others partaking of the nature of clay or gra-
vel, and sometimes resting upon a subsoil of imper-
vious ferruginous matter. The summits and sides of
many of the hills are especially poor, the soil con-
taining so little fertility as to be altogether unfit for
agriculture. In some places there are small portions of
good alluvial earth; but these form an exception to the
general character of the land. The crops consist chiefly
of oats and turnips. Large tracts are reserved for pas-
ture, which are traversed by herds of cattle subject to
due restraint from inclosures; but there are very few
sheep kept, except on gentlemen's grounds, and the
only flock of any consequence is on the Pitfour estate,
2?6
where are between three and four hundred, of various
breeds. The cattle are mostly the native black, rather
above the middle size, with which, during the last few
years, the Teeswaterhas been crossed ; they are fattened
upon turnips, raised partly by the use of bone-dust
manure, and many of them are sent for sale to the Lon-
don markets. Husbandry is well understood in the
parish, and considerable improvements have been made
in laying out land for pasture, draining, and inclosing.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £13,165.
The prevailing rocks are granite and limestone, the
latter of which is frequently found with veins and blocks
of gneiss, and often so loaded with magnesian earth, as
to render it more useful for building than for agricul-
tural purposes. Near the lime-quarry on the lands of
Annochie are blocks of pure white quartz, and in other
parts of the parish varieties of siliceous stone occur ;
particles of granite, felspar, quartz, and mica are also
found in gravel-pits. The large tracts of peat-moss for-
merly to be seen, are for the most part exhausted by
the continual demand upon them for supplies of fuel,
and very little is now to be found. The chief seat is the
Mansion House of Pitfour, which possesses fine gardens
and plantations, and the character of which maybe con-
jectured from the statement of the fact, that the ex-
penses incurred by the proprietor in the erection of
the house, and in improving and ornamenting the con-
tiguous grounds, have amounted to nearly £S0,000. On
the Kenmundy and Aden estates are also elegant and
commodious mansions, with good gardens, and well
laid out plantations : on the estate of Dens is a planta-
tion of about eighty acres, consisting chiefly of Scotch
fir and larch. Fair specimens may be seen in different
places of ash, elm, silver-fir, larch, and pine; but beech
and spruce-fir appear to be the kinds more particularly
adapted to the soil and climate.
The inhabitants of the villages are to a considerable
extent engaged in some branch of manufacture ; in
Stuartfield about thirty persons are employed in weaving
linen-yarn for the Aberdeen houses, and at Millbrake
and Aden some sorts of woollen-cloth are made. There
are also two flax-mills in the parish, and to the larger
of the two woollen-mills a dye-house and a fulling-
mill are attached. Six fairs are held in the course of
the year, of which Aikey fair, on the Wednesday after
the 19th of July, and St. Dustan's, on the corresponding
day of December, are chiefly for the sale of cattle,
sheep, and horses. Another is held on the Thursday
after the 25th of January, one on the Thursday after the
18th of March, one (lately established) on the Monday
after the 17th of September, and one about the beginning
of November : several others formerly held have been
discontinued, and the four last mentioned are of inferior
note. The turnpike-road from Fraserburgh to Aberdeen
runs in a direction north and south, and that from Peter-
head to Banff east and west, through the parish. The
ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of
Deer and synod of Aberdeen ; patron, the Crown. The
minister's stipend is £219, and there is a manse, built
in 1823, with a glebe worth between £40 and £50
per annum. The church, which was built in 17S8, and
thoroughly repaired a few years since, contains 1200
sittings. There is an episcopal chapel ; and members
of the Free Church, the Original Secession, the United
Associate Synod, and Independents, have places of
DEER
D E L T
worship. Three parochial schools are supported : the
master of the chief establishment, situated at Old
Deer, in which, besides the usual instruction, Greek
and mathematics are taught, has a salary of £31, with
a house, and about £30 from fees ; and the other mas-
ters have also a good income each, with fees. The
principal remains of antiquity are the ruins of the abbey,
at present surrounded by the high wall belonging to
the fruit and kitchen garden of Pitfour ; the larger
part of the ruins has been taken, at different times,
for the purpose of forming stone dykes and erecting
dwelling-houses, but what now remains is carefully
preserved by the proprietor of the estate. A church
of cruciform design once stood on its north side ; the
length from east to west was 150 feet, and the breadth
ninety feet, and the nave, thirty-eight and a half feet wide,
was supported by a row of pillars, the bases of which
may yet be seen, standing about seventeen feet distant
from each other. The most interesting Druidical temple
is that on the top of Parkhouse Hill, the chief stone
of which, called the Altar Stone, is fourteen and a half
feet long, and five and a half broad ; the stones stand
about fourteen feet asunder, and inclose a circle the
diameter of which is forty-eight feet. There are several
chalybeate springs in the parish.
DEERNESS, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of St. Andrew's, county of Orkney, 12 miles
(S. E.) from Kirkwall ; containing, with the island of
Copinshay, 777 inhabitants. This place, of which the
name is supposed to have originated in the number of
deer frequenting it in ancient times, is a peninsula
about four miles in length, and from one to three
miles in breadth, connected with the Mainland by a
narrow isthmus. It is bounded on the west and north-
west by the harbour of Deer Sound, which separates it
from the rest of the parish of St. Andrew's, and on the
south and east by the North Sea. According to
tradition, the whole of the peninsula was one wide
forest ; and roots and trunks of trees, and the antlers
of deer, have from time to time been dug up at a con-
siderable depth. The surface is varied with gentle
elevations, and towards the north-east rises into a lofty
promontory called the Mull head, about 200 feet above
the level of the sea : the soil is not unfertile, and con-
siderable improvement has taken place in the system
of agriculture, and in the construction of implements of
husbandry.
Deer Sound is more than four miles in length, and
from one to two miles and a half in breadth ; the
bottom is clay mixed with sand, and the depth of water
sufficient to render it accessible to vessels of consider-
able burthen, to which it affords safe anchorage and
shelter from the winds. The situation of this place is
peculiarly favourable for a fishing-station ; and in addi-
tion to the various kinds of fish taken off the coast,
the herring- fishery is carried on to a very considerable
extent, affording during the season full employment to
fifty boats, each having four men and a boy. Facility
of communication with Kirkwall and other parts of
the mainland, is afforded by one of the best roads in
the county. Cattle and grain are sent to Leith, to
which place there are regular packets, and a steamer
in summer. The district was separated from the parish
of St. Andrew's, for ecclesiastical purposes, in May,
1630 ; it is under the presbytery of Kirkwall and svnod
277
of Orkney, and in the patronage of the Crown. The
church is a plain building, erected about the close of the
last century, and affords sufficient accommodation for
the inhabitants: the stipend of the minister is £120,
with a manse, and about three acres of glebe land. A
school is supported by the Society for Propagating
Christian Knowledge, who pay the master a salary of
£12 per annum, to which £3 are added by the heritors.
Near the summit of Mull head was formerly an ancient
chapel of very difficult access, to which numerous pil-
grims were accustomed to resort ; there are also some
tumuli and remains of Picts' houses in the district.
DELTING, a parish, in the county of Shetland,
25 miles (N. N. W.) from Lerwick ; containing, with
the islands of Little Roe and Muckle Roe, 2019 inha-
bitants. This parish, the name of which is said to
be of Danish or Norwegian origin, is situated about
the centre of the Mainland, and is separated on the
west from the parish of Northmavine by a long nar-
row harbour called Sulom Voe, and from the island of
Yell on the north by Yell Sound. It is so indented by
fissures and intersected by narrow bays, no part of it
being above two miles from the sea, that the estimate
of its superficial extent cannot be given with any
degree of accuracy. The surface, in its general appear-
ance, is billy, bleak, and dreary, ornamented occasion-
ally with a few small lochs, and the quantity of land
under tillage is not more than about 1000 acres,
attached to which is pasture of nearly the same extent ;
the remainder of the parish is hilly ground abounding
in peaty soil, which affords abundance of excellent fuel.
The arable land has been lately much improved by
draining, and a considerable number of Scotch ploughs
has been introduced, as well as carts, which before
had been very scarce here. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £17*7. The principal rocks are gneiss
and syenite, with which also are found limestone and
hornblende. There are four mansion-houses, named
Busta, Mossbank, Ullhouse, and Garth. The inhabitants
are mostly employed in fishing; and in the month of
May, the whole of the fishermen meet at the stations
in Northmavine and Papa-Stour, for commencing ope-
rations in the taking of ling and cod, upon which
they chiefly depend : in a recent year 528 barrels of
herrings and sixty tons of ling, cod, tusk, and saith
were cured in Delting, and these were only a part of
what had been taken. Piltocks and sillocks, called also
coal-fish, are likewise caught to a considerable extent,
and supply the inhabitants with a large proportion of
their food, and frequently with a quantity of oil. The
parish is in the presbytery of Burravoe and synod of
Shetland, and in the patronage of the Earl of Zetland.
The stipend is £151, of which about a third is received
from the exchequer, with a manse, built in 1*51, and
thoroughly repaired and enlarged about the year 1820,
at an expense of £500, and also a glebe valued at
£10 per annum : the minister is likewise entitled to
the vicarage tithe of certain quantities of butter and
oil. There are two churches, that of the south district,
which was erected in 1/14, and is reckoned the prin-
cipal, and the north district church, built in 1811 ; the
number of sittings in each is about 560. The parochial
schoolmaster receives a salary of £26, and about £3
fees ; and there are two other schools, of which the
masters are allowed, one £18, and the other £13, by
DENN
DENN
the General Assembly. Near Yell Sound is a Pictish
castle called Brough ; at Burravoe are the remains of
an ancient harbour, and at Busta a block of gra-
nite between ten and eleven feet in height, called the
Standing Stone of Busta. There are also two caves, the
one at Culsterness, containing two apartments, and
supposed to have been originally used as a hiding-place,
and the other in the vicinity of the loch of Trondavoe,
said to have been used in times past as a depository for
stolen sheep.
DENHOLM, a village, in the parish of Cavers,
Hawick district of the county of Roxburgh, 5 miles
(W. by S.) from Jedburgh ; containing 696 inhabitants.
This place is beautifully situated in the northern part of
the parish, on the road from Jedburgh to Hawick, and
equi-distant from both towns. The population are em-
ployed in stocking-weaving, the work being given out
to them by the manufacturers of Hawick. A sub-post-
office has been established, and the village has recently
been much improved. There are places of worship for
members of the Free Church and Congregational Union-
ists ; and one of the parochial schools is in the village,
in which is also a subscription library, containing about
900 volumes. Dr. John Leyden, author of the Scenes
of Infancy, and famous as an oriental scholar, was born
at Denholm.
DENINO, county of Fife. — See Ddnino.
DENNY, a manufacturing town and parish, in the
county of Stirling, 7 miles (S. by E.) from Stirling,
and 5 (W. N. W.) from Falkirk ; containing, with the
late quoad sacra parish of Haggs, and the villages of
Fankerton and Loanhead, 4916 inhabitants, of whom
1S81 are in the town. This place, of which the name,
derived from the Gaelic Dun, is descriptive of its situ-
ation on an eminence, originally formed part of the
parish of Falkirk, from which it was separated about
the year 161S. A considerable portion of the parish
appears to have belonged to an establishment of Knights
Templars which probably existed here or in the imme-
diate vicinity, and the land is still known by the appel-
lation of Temple-Denny. The town, which is situated
on the south bank of the river Carron, and on the high
road from Glasgow to Stirling, consists partly of a street
extending from the church northward to the bridge over
the Carron ; and in a direction opposite to this, an-
other spacious street has been more recently built,
which, in compliment to the principal landed proprietor,
is called Herbertshire- street. The houses are generally
well built, and roofed with slate, and have a handsome
appearance. A public, library, containing nearly 1200
volumes on general literature, is supported by subscrip-
tion, and there is also a theological library of 400 volumes;
several efforts for the establishment of reading-rooms
have been made, but without success. A club for the
practice of archery was established in 182S, of which
the members, who were elected by ballot, till lately
held annual meetings in October, when prizes of medals
and silver arrows, and other honorary distinctions, were
awarded ; there is still a curling club.
The woollen manufacture is carried on to a consider-
able extent, for the Glasgow houses ; the principal articles
are tartans, linsey-woolsey stuffs, and fancy shawls. The
machinery of the mills is driven by the Carron, of which
the softness and purity of the water render it peculiarly
appropriate for cleaning and dyeing the various articles
278
produced in the works, in which about 160,000 pounds
of wool are annually consumed, affording occupation to
200 persons. A mill for the manufacture of different
kinds of coarse paper and milled-boards at Carron-
Grove, employs about twenty persons ; the materials
are chiefly old tarred rope, of which about a ton is used
daily ; the mill is lighted with gas, and the excise duty
arnouuts to £400 every six weeks. The manufacture of
writing-paper is also extensively carried on, in the Her-
bertshire mills, by Messrs. Duncan and Sons, employ-
ing twenty men and fifty women, who reside principally
in Denny and Fankerton ; the machinery is driven by-
two water-wheels, of which one is twenty-four, and the
other twenty-two feet in diameter. A mill for crushing
dye-woods, on the bank of the Carron, and with which
are connected works in Castle- Rankine glen, affords
employment to more than twenty persons, in the pro-
duction of dyeing materials and of pyroligneous acid and
the several liquors requisite for the various colours; and
on the lands of Knowhead, is an extensive forge for the
making of spades. A large distillery is in operation,
which produces about. 50,000 gallons of whisky annu-
ally ; and a brick and tile work has been recently esta-
blished : many of the inhabitants of this place, also,
are employed in the print-works in the adjoining parish
of Dunipace. There are likewise numerous corn and
meal mills on the river, for the better supply of which
with water-power, a reservoir of sixty acres has been
constructed on Earl's burn, about nine miles above
Denny, at an expense of £2000. The town contains
well-stored shops for the sale of different kinds of mer-
chandise, and all the various handicraft trades requisite
for the supply of the district are carried on in the town,
which also derives a considerable degree of traffic from
its situation on a great public thoroughfare. The post-
office has a good delivery ; not less than twenty public-
conveyances pass daily through Denny, and facility of
communication is afforded by excellent, roads and bridges,
and by the great canal between Edinburgh and Glasgow,
which runs within three miles to the south of the town.
A baron-bailie presides over the town, with power to
hold a court for the recovery of debts not exceeding
£2 ; and fairs are held annually, for cows, on the Wed-
nesday before the 12th of May and the Wednesday after
the 11th of November; but there is no market.
The parish is bounded on the north by the river
Carron, on the south by the river Bonny, and on the
west by the hill of Darrach, and is nearly six miles in
length and four in breadth, comprising a little less than
9000 acres, of which 2000 are permanent pasture, and
the remainder chiefly arable. The surface, which de-
clines gradually from the hill of Darrach towards the
east, is divided nearly in the centre by an elevated
ridge throughout its whole length, from which the
ground slopes towards the north and south ; the only
other hill of any note is that of Myothill, on the lands
of Temple-Denny. The scenery is richly diversified,
commanding a view of Herbertshire House, the seat
of the Dowager Lady Forbes of Callendar, and of the
beautifully undulated and tastefully embellished grounds
wherein it is situated, on the opposite bank of the
Carron. There are numerous springs and several small
rivulets, of which latter, Castle-Rankine burn, which
has its source near the base of Darrach Hill, and falls
into the Carron near Denny Bridge, is the largest.
D EN O
DESK
The Carron, rising in the Muckle Bin, to the west of
Darrach Hill, and flowing in an eastern course, forms
a strikingly picturesque cascade called Auchinlilly-lin-
spout, near the bridge on the road to Fintry ; and a
cottage commanding a fine view of the fall was built by
Mr. Hill, but is now a ruin. The Bonny flows into the
Carron about two miles to the east of the town.
The soil on the banks of the Carron and the Bonny
is a fertile loam, in the central districts gravelly, and
in the higher lands are considerable tracts of marshy
ground ; the crops are, oats, barley, wheat, beans, peas,
potatoes, and turnips. The system of husbandry, though
greatly improved, is still defective from the want of
draining and inclosures ; and the farm -buildings, with
some exceptions, are of very inferior order. There are
but few sheep reared on the lands, and these are chiefly
of the Cheviot and Leicestershire breeds ; the cattle
are generally the Ayrshire, and the horses of the Clydes-
dale breed, to the improvement of which great attention
is now paid. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£6293. The natural woods are mostly oak and birch,
which are carefully preserved ; and the plantations are,
ash, elm, birch, lime, oak, plane, and larch, and Scotch
and spruce firs, all of which are properly managed and
in a thriving state. The substrata are principally whin-
stone and freestone ; and ironstone and coal are also
found in abundance. The coal on the north of the
ridge, though nearest to the manufactories, is only
wrought occasionally, from the difficulty of drawing off
the water; the mines on the south, at Banknock, are in
full operation. The coal occurs in three seams, of which
the upper is three feet six inches, the middle twenty-
two inches, and the lowest five feet in thickness ; and
the produce, after supplying the wants of the locality,
is sent by the canal to Greenock and Edinburgh. The
parish contains Myothill House, beautifully situated
near the base of Darrach Hill, in grounds embellished
with plantations.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Stirling and synod of
Perth and Stirling. The minister's stipend is £250,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 per annum ;
patron, the Crown. The church, erected in 1S13, was
internally beautified in 1S3S, and lighted with gas ; it
is a neat structure in the Grecian style, and contains
767 sittings. There are places of worship for members
of the United Secession and Free Church. The paro-
chial school is well conducted ; the master has a salary
of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees average
£■24 : a handsome building has recently been erected for
the school. The only antiquities are some remains of a
Roman station at Castle-Carie, near the southern con-
fines of the parish. A rude stone coffin was discovered
in digging the foundation for Headswood Cottage, at
Woodgate, and found to contain the ashes of an adult
supposed to have been killed near the spot, at the time
of the wars with Edward I. of England. A circular
hollow now under cultivation, in the south of the parish,
near the river Bonny, is said to have been the site of a
Caledonian encampment during the occupation of Castle-
Carie by the Romans.
DENOVAN, a village, in the parish of Dunipace,
county of Stirling, 5 miles (W. N. W.) from Falkirk ;
containing 104 inhabitants. This village, which is
chiefly inhabited by persons employed in calico-printing
279
works, is situated on the north bank of the river Carron,
amidst scenery of pleasingly picturesque character, the
effect of which is heightened by the graceful tower of
the parish church rising above the surrounding foliage,
and the handsome residence of the proprietor. The
works were established by Mr. Adam, in 1800, and afford
employment to about 400 persons, of whom the greater
number are resident in the town of Denny, on the
opposite side of the Carron. In addition to these per-
sons, engaged in the regular printing departments, are
nearly 200 children, chiefly girls, of whom some are
occupied in attendance on the printers, and others in
sewing and fringing shawls.
DESKFORD, a parish, in the county of Banff,
4 miles (S. by E.) from Cullen, on the road to Keith ;
containing 860 inhabitants. This parish derives its
name, signifying a cold place to the southward, from
the comparative temperature of its climate, and its situ-
ation with respect to Cullen. It is rather more than
five miles in length, and about three miles in its average
breadth, comprising a quadrilateral area of S500 acres,
of which 2S00 are arable land in good cultivation, 5100
waste or partly in pasture, and 600 woodland. The
surface is hilly, and between the high grounds is a
beautiful valley watered by a stream called the burn of
Deskford, which rises in the adjoining parish of Grange,
and receives in its course many tributary streams, de-
scending from the heights on both sides. The soil in
the valley and lower lands is a rich black loam, and in
an improved state of cultivation. The high land on
the east side of the valley is called the Green Hill, and
in several places is planted with larch and common fir ;
that on the west side is chiefly covered with heath,
with the exception of a small portion brought into
cultivation. Considerable improvement has been made
in draining, and there is a quarry of excellent limestone,
which is extensively worked both for building and
for agricultural purposes. A large tract of moss sup-
plies the inhabitants with peat and turf, which are
also sent to Cullen and several villages on the coast.
The substratum of the parish is mostly mica-slate, in
which fragments of quartz are frequently found, and,
beneath the surface of the higher grounds, gravel, or
clay and gravel mixed. The principal manure is lime ;
but bone-manure is also used with considerable benefit,
and in the upper part of the parish fish-manure is
applied. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£2154.
The scenery, especially in the valley, is pleasing and
picturesque. The burn, in its progress through the
parish, affords much variety ; and the numerous streams
that fall into it from the high grounds on both sides,
issue from narrow glens, the sides' of which are fringed
with wood, and in their descent form cascades of
singular beauty. Of these the most interesting is
one called the Linn ; the stream rushes with great im-
petuosity from a deep cleft in the rock, which it has
worn into fanciful cavities,'and, after repeated obstruc-
tions, precipitates itself from a height of thirty feet.
A tract of hilly and moorish ground, called the Cotton
Hill, comprising about 250 acres, has within the last
few years been inclosed for plantation. The drains
made for preparing the ground for the purpose, extend
for nineteen miles, and the dykes for its in closure
nearly six miles. The woodlands of the parish now
DESK
DING
comprise 850 acres. There was formerly a bleachfield,
and during the prevalence of the linen manufacture
the female population were engaged in spinning ; since
the discontinuance of that trade the bleachfield has
been converted into arable land, and there are now
only two meal-mills, to one of which is attached a kiln,
and a barley- mill. The most important improvement
that has lately taken place is the construction of a line
of turnpike-road through the parish, opening a commu-
nication between Keith and Cullen, and which, from
the recent construction of a harbour at the latter town,
affords a facility of forwarding the agricultural produce.
The parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of
Fordyce and synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage
ofthe Earl of Seafield ; the minister's stipend is£193. 12.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £8 per annum.
The church, built before the Reformation, is in good
repair, and capable of receiving a congregation of 357
persons. The members of the Free Church have a
place of worship. The parochial school affords instruc-
tion to about forty boys ; the master's salary is £34,
with £12 fees, and about £30 from the bequest of
Mr. Dick. There is the interest of a sum of money,
amounting to £10. 12., distributed among the poor.
On the borders of a farm called Liechestown, was found
within the last twenty years, at the depth of six feet,
in a mossy piece of ground, the head of a swine in
brass, of the ordinary size, with a tongue of wood
moveable by means of springs ; it is now in the museum
of the Banff Institution. Upon an adjoining farm,
called Inalterie, supposed to signify the place of " the
altar,'' are the remains of an ancient massive building,
in one part of which is a deep circular hole of the size
of a well, inclosed with a stone wall rising to a consi-
derable height. The origin and purpose of the building
are equally obscure. Close to it is a vault, on ex-
ploring which a staircase was found leading down to
the interior ; but the search was interrupted by con-
tinued heavy rains, and has not been resumed. It is
supposed to be the remains of some baronial castle or
ecclesiastical building. In the immediate vicinity was
formerly an artificial mount of stones, called the Law
Hillock, and thought to have been a place for adminis-
tering justice, for which purpose it was well adapted ;
but it has been removed for the purpose of employing
the materials in building. On the other side of the
burn of Deskford, and within view of the former, is
another mount, rising to an elevation of twenty feet,
and sloping gradually on the sides ; it is level on the
summit, which is of elliptical form, and surrounded at
the base by a ditch, part of which forms the bed of a
stream called the Ha' burn. This mount is termed
the Ha' Hillock, and is supposed to have been also an
ancient tribunal. Adjoining the church are the ruins
of a tower formerly belonging to a castle, the residence
of the chief proprietor of the parish. It is said that
there was originally a communication from this tower
to the church, the walls of which are contiguous; and
the latter is thought to have been originally the do-
mestic chapel of the castle. The tower formed a very
conspicuous object, rising considerably above the roof
of the church ; but, being in a very ruinous state, it
was taken down some few years since, from an appre-
hension of danger. Close to the church is St. John's
well, supplied by a spring that appears to issue from
280
beneath the church, which was originally dedicated to
that saint ; and near it is a small fragment of a very
stately tree dedicated to the same patron.
DEVONSIDE, a village, in the parish of Tillicoul-
try, county of Clackmannan, f of a mile (S.) from
Tillicoultry ; containing 170 inhabitants. This village,
situated on the banks of the Devon, has sprung up
within these few years : coal, which is abundant in the
parish, is wrought in its vicinity, and brick and tile
works have been erected. The place is suitably circum-
stanced for manufactures, the Devon supplying water
for steam-engines and other purposes.
DEWARTOWN, a village, in the parish of Borth-
wick, county of Edinburgh, 1 mile (S.) from Ford;
containing 193 inhabitants. It is one of the most con-
siderable villages in the parish, and of pleasing appear-
ance, and consists principally of small holdings on the
estate of Vogrie, the property of the Dewar family. The
dwellings are ranged on one side of the road, and in
front is a plantation, with a small stream flowing near :
the scenery in the neighbourhood is very picturesque.
DINGWALL, a royal
burgh, sea-port, and a parish,
the capital of the county
of Ross, 20 miles (S. W.)
from Cromarty, and 174 (N.
N. W.) from Edinburgh ;
containing 2100 inhabitants,
of whom 1739 are in the
burgh. This place, of which
the name is of Scandinavian
origin, is supposed to have
been originally a Danish set-
tlement, and subsequently
the seat of one of the numerous royal fortresses erected
along the coast, to repel the frequent incursions of that
warlike people. It is of considerable antiquity, and,
from the discovery of foundations of houses and pave-
ments beyond the limits of the present town, is sup-
posed to have been anciently of greater extent and
importance. It was erected into a royal burgh by Alex-
ander II., who, in 1226, bestowed upon the inhabitants
a charter investing them with all the privileges and im-
munities enjoyed by the burgesses of Inverness. The
castle became the principal seat of the powerful earls of
Ross, who were proprietors of the greater portion of
the lands in the surrounding district, of which several
estates are still held under charters granted to the own-
ers by the earls, and dated from Dingwall. The castle
and the lands remained in the possession of the earls of
Ross till 1476, when, on the attainder of the last earl,
the proprietor of the estate of Tulloch was appointed
hereditary constable of the castle, and the earldom was
vested in the crown. The only remains of the castle
are a small shapeless fragment of the walls, from which
may be obtained a tolerable idea of the massive solidity
of the structure ; the fosse by which it was surrounded
may still be traced, and part of its site is now occupied
by a castellated building recently erected by the pro-
prietor of the land.
The town is situated at the entrance of a picturesque
glen opening into the Frith of Cromarty, and consists
of one principal street, about, half a mile in length from
east to west, from which several smaller streets diverge
at right angles. The houses in the main street are
Burgh Seal.
DING
DING
shaded by rows of tall poplar-trees in front, and those
of the older class are generally well built and two sto-
ries in height. From its vicinity to the mineral springs
of Strathpeffer the town has been much extended with-
in the last few years, and many handsome modern
houses have been built. The streets are paved, and
lighted with gas, and the inhabitants are supplied with
water conveyed into the town from springs in the vici-
nity. The public subscription library has been for some
years discontinued. There' are no manufactures carried
on ; the principal trade arises from the town being the
general mart for the rich and populous district of which
it is the centre, for which it has numerous shops,
amply stored with wares of all kinds. The trade of the
port consists chiefly in the exportation of grain, tim-
ber, bark, and agricultural produce ; and in the impor-
tation of merchandise for the supply of the district, and
of coal, lime, and other commodities. There are several
vessels belonging to the port, which were built here,
and are employed in the coasting trade. The harbour,
close to the town, was constructed in 1817, at a cost
of £4365, and is under the superintendence of commis-
sioners appointed by act of parliament in 1S24.
Under the charter of Alexander II., confirmed by
James IV., and ratified by James VI., the government
of the burgh is vested in a provost, two bailies, a dean
of guild, treasurer, and ten councillors, chosen under
the regulations of the burgh Reform act. There are no
incorporated guilds ; persons dealing in merchandise
within the burgh must become burgesses, the fee for
which varies from £5 to £15. 15., but neither the sons
nor apprentices of burgesses pay any fee, and craftsmen
may exercise their trades without becoming burgesses.
The jurisdiction of the magistrates, which extends over
the whole of the royalty, is chiefly confined, in civil
causes, to actions of small amount, and in criminal cafes
to petty offences ; and in both, their functions are gra-
dually falling into the hands of the sheriff, whose sub-
stitute, residing here, holds the usual courts. The burgh
is associated with those of Cromarty, Dornoch, Kirk-
wall, Tain, and Wick, in returning a member to the
imperial parliament; the number of voters is 100. The
town-house, nearly in the centre of the town, is an
ancient structure with a spire ; the county buildings
are elegant, and the prison extensive. The market, on
Friday, is. well supplied with grain and provisions ;
and fairs, chiefly for cattle and agricultural produce,
are held on the third Wednesdays in January and Fe-
bruary, the first Wednesdays in June, September, and
November, the first Tuesday in July, and the Tuesday
before Christmas-day. There are regular posts to
Poolewe, Stornoway, Ullapool, Lochcarron, Lochalsh,
Kintail, Glenelg, and the Isle of Skye ; and a branch of
the Caledonian bank has been established in the town.
Facility of communication is afforded by good roads in
all directions, kept in excellent repair; and by steam-
boats to Edinburgh weekly, and every alternate week
to Ldfadon, which call at Invergordon, in the Frith of
Cromarty.
The parish, which is situated at the western extre-
mity of the Frith, is about three miles in length, and of
nearly equal breadth ; and is bounded on the north by
the heights of Ben Wy vis, on the south by the river
Conan, and on the south and south-east by the sea.
It comprises about 5600 acres, of which 23S0 are ara-
Vol. I. — 'SSI
ble, 1380 woodland and plantations, and the remainder
meadow, pasture, and waste. The surface is beautifully
diversified with hills and valleys, and with wood and
water. To the north, the hill of Tulloch, a continuation
of the ridge of Strathpeffer, rises to a height of 800 feet,
crowned on its summit with timber of stately growth,
and enriched on the acclivities with lands in the high-
est state of cultivation, and the tastefully embellished
pleasure-grounds of Tulloch Castle. The Conan, which
flows by a winding course into the Frith, adds much to
the beauty of the scenery, and abounds with salmon
and trout of various kinds, and also with pike and eels.
The Frith at flood-tide forms a magnificent expanse,
but at ebb-tide recedes for nearly three miles from the
shore, leaving a flat strand of slime.
The soil is generally of a clayey nature ; in the
lower lands near the town is a deep black vegetable
mould, of great fertility, and in dry seasons producing
luxuriant crops. Throughout the parish, the soil of the
lands under cultivation is fertile, and well adapted to
the growth of wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips,
which are the principal crops. The system of husban-
dry is in the most improved state ; the lands are inclosed
with hedges, in which are rows of timber, and the
farm-houses and offices substantial and well arranged.
Few live stock are reared, but considerable numbers of
sheep and cattle are pastured ; the sheep are chiefly of
the Cheviot breed, and the cattle of the Highland breed,
with some cows of the Ayrshire on the dairy-farms.
The woods abound with game of all kinds, which, from
the sheltered situation of the place, resort in great va-
riety ; the principal are, partridges, grouse, black game,
and pheasants, which last, though but of recent introduc-
tion, have rapidly increased in number. The plantations
are, fir, larch, beech, elm, oak, ash, sycamore, and
various other trees, all in a very thriving state, and
under careful management. The chief substrata are sand-
stone and conglomerate, of which also the rocks are
composed. There are three sandstone quarries, exten-
sively wrought ; one is of a grey colour, and of hard
quality, and the others of light blue, of softer kind, but
well adapted for building, and susceptible of a fine
polish. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£4576.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Dingwall and synod of Ross.
The minister's stipend is £244, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £30 per annum ; patron, the Crown.
The church is a neat, plain structure, in good repair,
and contains S00 sittings ; service is performed both in
the English and in the Gaelic language, and a catechist
is employed who is paid £15 per annum. There is an
episcopal chapel. The parochial school is well attended;
the master has a salary of £34, with a house and
garden, and the fees average £40. The poor have the
interest of some legacies, of which £700 was a bequest
by one of the Tulloch family, and £100 by the late
Bailie Mackenzie. Near the church is an obelisk rising
from a base of six feet square to the height of fifty-seven
feet, erected by George, the first earl of Cromarty,
and secretary of state for Scotland to Queen Anne, to
point out the family sepulchre. Towards the north ex-
tremity of the parish are the remains of a Druidical
circle ; and at the east end of the town are those of the
cross supposed to have been in the centre of the ancient
20
DIRL
DI RL
town. This place gave the title of baron to Sir Richard
Preston, who was created Lord Dingwall by James VI.,
with whom he was a great favourite ; he married the
only daughter of the Earl of Qrmond, and left a daugh-
ter who conveyed the title to another family, by whom
it was forfeited by attainder in 1716.
DINWOODIE, an ancient chapelry, in the parish
of Applegarth, county of Dumfries, 5 miles (N. by
W.) from Lockerbie. It is situated on the road from
Lockerbie to Moffat, and a little east of the river An-
nan, which bounds the parish on the west. On Dinwoo-
die Green is an inn, which has long served as a stage
to the mail between London and Glasgow. Dinwoodie
hill, in the neighbourhood of the village, is 736 feet high.
DIRLETON, a parish, in the county of Hadding-
ton ; including the villages of Fenton and Gulane, and
containing 1497 inhabitants, of whom 353 are in the
village of Dirleton, 2§ miles (W. S. W.) from North
Berwick. This place, anciently called Golyn, a Gaelic
term signifying a small lake, derived that appellation
from a sheet of water near the village of Gulane, which
has long been drained. The ancient manors of Golyn
and Dirleton, which latter gives to the parish its present
name, belonged, together with the lands of Fenton, in
the early part of the twelfth century, to the family of
Vaux or De Vallibus, and in 1340, passed, by marriage
with the daughter and heiress of William De "Vallibus,
to Sir John Halyburton, whose grandson, Sir Walter,
lord high treasurer of Scotland, was created Lord Haly-
burton in 144S. On the decease of the sixth lord
Halyburton, the lands were conveyed by his daughter
and heiress Janet, in marriage, to William, second lord
Ruthven, by whose descendant, John, Earl of Gowrie,
they were forfeited to the crown in 1600. They were
afterwards granted to Sir Thomas Erskine, who killed
the Earl of Gowrie while making an attempt on the life
of James VI. ; and Sir Thomas was created Lord Dirle-
ton in 1603, Viscount Fenton in 1606, and Earl of
Kellie in 1619. The lands, in 1663, were purchased by
Sir John Nisbet, afterwards lord of session and king's
advocate, from whose descendant they passed by mar-
riage to the present proprietor. Sir John Nisbet. was
born here in 1610, and died in 1638; he published a
work entitled Doubts and Questions in the Law, especially
of Scotland, which was highly esteemed, and of which
Lord Chancellor Hardwicke was accustomed to say that
"Dirleton' s doubts were better than most people's cer-
tainties." The ancient castle of Dirleton, erected by
the family of Vaux, in the twelfth century, was a fortress
of great strength, and opposed the most formidable resist-
ance to Edward I., on his invasion of Scotland in 1298.
The English forces by whom it was besieged were, during
the long period of its defence, reduced to the greatest ex-
tremities ; it was at length surrendered to Anthony
Beck, Bishop of Durham. It remained in the hands of
the English till the year 1306, and subsequently, on the
invasion of Scotland by Cromwell in 1650, was besieged
and taken by General Lambert, by whose orders it was
dismantled and almost entirely demolished.
The parish is about five miles and a half in length, and
four in breadth, and is bounded on the north by the
Frith of Forth, and on the south by the small river
Peffer, which divides it from the parish of Athelstane-
ford. It comprises 7500 Scottish acres, of which 5300
are arable and in a state of good cultivation, 300 woodland
282
and plantations, and the remainder pasture and heath
The surface is generally fiat, being varied only by two
nearly parallel ridges of moderate elevation, which divide
it into three almost equal portions ; the scenery is greatly
enlivened by the Frith, and its several islands, of which
those of Fetheray, Eyebrochy or Ibris, and the Lamb
form part of the parish. The isle of Fetheray is situated di-
rectly opposite to the village, about a mile from the shore,
with which it is connected by a narrow isthmus rising
on the west into an elevation, called, from its appearance,
the Castle of Tarbet. The coast towards the east is level
sand, and towards the west rocky, having crags of con-
siderable height. The rivers are the Millburn and the
Peffer, which latter divides into two shallow and incon-
siderable streams, one forming the boundary of the
parish, and, after a course of nearly eight miles, falling
into the sea at Aberlady, and the other flowing in an
easterly direction into the sea near Tynningham.
The soil on the southern side of the parish is partly
wet and marshy, and on the northern side light
and sandy ; the remainder is generally a good loam,
resting on a tilly substratum, and by a highly improved
course of agriculture rendered extremely fertile. The
crops are, wheat, barley, oats, beans, peas, potatoes, and
turnips ; bone-dust and rape manures have been exten-
sively introduced ; tile- draining is practised to a great
extent, and much unprofitable land has been reclaimed.
Great attention is paid to the improvement of live stock ;
the sheep, of which about 2000 are annually pastured,
are chiefly of the Cheviot, Leicestershire, and black-faced
breeds. About 500 head of cattle and 120 milch cows
are grazed. The plantations are mostly on the sandy
soils, and are well managed ; the thinnings supply abun-
dant materials for palings and other purposes. The sub-
strata are, sandstone, whinstone, and limestone ; the
sandstone is quarried at Gulane, and the whinstone at
Burnside ; the limestone has not been worked. Basalt
is found near the coast, and on the farm of West Fenton
it assumes the columnar formation, appearing in penta-
gonal columns, of which more than thirty were some
years since discovered. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £13,885. Archerfield is a handsome man-
sion-house, in a park, commanding an extensive view of
the Frith. The village of Dirleton is beautifully situated
on an eminence, about a mile and a half from the sea, and
consists of neatly-built cottages, with gardens attached
to them, richly ornamented with flowers and shrubs.
From its elevated site it commands interesting pros-
pects over the surrounding country, embracing, towards
the east, the Bass rock, the island of May, and North
Berwick Law ; and with the ivy-clad ruins of its ancient
castle, seated on a lofty rock at its eastern extremity, it
forms itself a conspicuous object in the landscape. In
the village are, a parochial library consisting of 160
volumes purchased by collections at the church ; a sub-
scription library ; and a library of ISO volumes for the
use of the school. It has a post-office under Had-
dington, with which town and other places in the vicinity
it has facilities of intercourse by good roads.
The parish is in- the presbytery of Haddington and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and patronage of Mrs.
Ferguson. The minister's stipend is £293. 18., with a
manse, and a glebe of twelve acres. The church is a
substantial and handsome edifice, erected in 1612, and
repaired within the last few years ; it is well situated for
DOLL
DOLL
the accommodation of the parishioners, and adapted for
a congregation of 600 persons. The members of the
Free Church have a place of worship. The parochial
school, in the village of Dirleton, affords instruction to
about eighty children ; the master has a salary of £34,
with £33. 16. fees, and a house and garden. There were
anciently several chapels in the parish, all subordinate
to the church of Golyn. One of these, dedicated to St.
Nicholas, was situated on the isle of Fetheray, and
there are still some portions of it remaining ; and on the
lands of Archerfield was formerly a convent of nuns of
the Cistercian order, a cell to the monastery founded by
David I. at Berwick-upon-Tweed. The remains of the
old chuixh of Golyn are still in good preservation.
Numerous coffins have been found near the villages of
Dirleton and Fenton, formed of a peculiar kind of stone,
and containing bones imbedded in dark coloured earth.
Near West Fenton, a stone hammer of very great anti-
quity has been dug up ; and not far from this, the foun-
dations of several houses have been discovered by the
plough, supposed to have been destroyed by an encroach-
ment of the sea, which formerly reached the spot, though
now some miles distant. There are also remains of the
old mansion of Saltcoats, belonging to the ancient
family of Levington, whose ancestor received a grant of
these lands as a recompense for having killed a destruc-
tive boar that infested the neighbourhood.
DOLLAR, a town and parish, in the county of
Clackmannan; containing 1562 inhabitants, of whom
1131 are in the town, 7 miles (N. E:) from Alloa. This
place, of which the name, in the Gaelic language, is de-
scriptive either of a vale at the base of a hill, or of a
secluded plain, belonged in the 15th century to the
Campbell family, of whose baronial residence, Castle-
Campbell, there are still considerable remains. By
whom or at what period this ancient fortress, which is
of formidable strength, was first erected, is not distinctly
known ; the style of the buildings indicates different
dates, and evidently shows that the original structure
received various subsequent additions. The later por-
tions are in a state of ruin ; but the keep, the oldest
part, is in rather good preservation. This tower, of which
the walls are of vast thickness, is of quadrilateral form,
and the spiral staircase forming an ascent to the
roof is still tolerably entire. To the south of the keep
are extensive vaults, continued far beyond the walls of
the castle, which, from the rugged and precipitous ac-
clivities of the height whereon it is built, is almost in-
accessible. In the year 1556, Archibald, the fourth earl
of Argyll, resided in the castle, where he was frequently
visited by the reformer, John Knox, who administered
the sacrament of the Lord's Supper here previously
to his departure for Geneva. The castle was burnt in
1644, by the Marquess of Montrose, after his victories
at Auldearne and Alford, on his route to the south, on
which occasion his troops burnt every house in the
parishes of Dollar and Muckart belonging to the vassals
of the Earl of Argyll. The lands are at present divided
among various proprietors, of whom the principal are
the Globe Insurance Company.
The parish is bounded on the north by the Ochil
range, and is about three miles in length, from north to
south, and about a mile and a half in breadth, compris-
ing nearly 4500 acres, of which 1/40 are arable, 250
woodland and plantations, 2500 hill pasture, and the
remainder moss and waste. The surface, sloping gra-
dually from the base of the hills towards the south,
forms a gently inclined plane to the river Devon, by
which the parish is intersected from east to west, and
beyond which the ground rises gradually to a ridge of
table land of considerable breadth. The principal of
the Ochils are. King's Seat, Dollar Hill, and the Wisp,
none of which, however, exceed 1900 feet in elevation.
At the western extremity of the range is Damiett, com-
manding an interesting view of the surrounding country,
including Stirling, Alloa, Linlithgow, and Falkirk, and
reaching to the centre of Lanarkshire, with the range of
mountains from Perth on the east, to Loch Katrine and
Loch Lomond on the west. The river Devon flows
through the vale of Dollar, in a beautifully winding
stream, between banks richly wooded, and, after a
course in which it forms many picturesque cascades,
falls into the Forth at Cambus ; it abounds with trout
and par, and in the numerous burns that flow into it
from the Ochils trout are also found. The bridge over
the river connecting this parish with that of Fossaway, was
built by Thomas Forrest, vicar of Dollar, who suffered
martyrdom in 1538, and hence it is called Vicar's Bridge.
The soil, though various, is generally fertile ; the
crops are, oats, wheat, barley, turnips, and potatoes.
The system of agriculture is advancing, and the lands
have been greatly improved by draining ; the farm-
buildings are substantial and commodious, and most of
the fences are kept in good order. The hills afford excel-
lent pasture for sheep, of which considerable numbers are
reared. The plantations, which are interspersed through-
out the parish, are, oak, ash, elm, beeeh, plane, and the
various kinds of fir ; birch and alder appear to be indi-
genous, and recently American oak, chesnut, and wal-
nut, with various other trees, have been introduced, and
appear to thrive. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £4313. The rocks are chiefly of porphyry and
whinstone, and in the hills are found some veins of
copper and lead ; the principal substrata are, sandstone
of various colours, ironstone, limestone, and coal.
Some unsuccessful attempts to work the copper were
made a few years since. There is a quarry in operation,
producing excellent stone for building; and the coal
has been extensively wrought at Dollar, near the Ochils,
and at Sheardale, on the table land to the south of the
Devon. In both these coalfields are found splint and
main coal, in seams of three and five feet in thickness,
at depths respectively of nine and eleven fathoms from
the surface. The works at Dollar have been for the
few last years discontinued ; but those at Sheardale are
in full operation, producing annually about 6000 tons
for the supply of the neighbourhood.
The village or town, which has greatly increased
since the establishment of the Dollar Institution, is
pleasantly situated on the sloping plain in the centre
of the parish, and contains several handsome houses,
the residences of families connected with that establish-
ment, in addition to those inhabited by persons em-
ployed in the works in the neighbourhood. There is a
bleachfield here, belonging to Mr. Haig. In 17S7, it
comprised only about four acres ; but the concern has
been much extended, and at present not less than thirty
acres are appropriated to the bleaching of linen goods,
in which more than sixty persons are employed, of
whom nearly one-half are women. The woollen manu-
2 0 2
DOLP
DO L P
facture, for which a mill has been erected, is carried on
to a small extent; and a manufactory of bricks and
tiles has been established, in which about twenty per-
sons are engaged. A branch office under the post-office
at Alloa has been established here } fairs, chiefly for.
cattle, are held annually, in May and October ; and
facility of communication is afforded by the turnpike-
road from Kinross to Stirling, which passes through the
parish. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Stirling and
synod of Perth and Stirling. The minister's stipend is
£158. 10., of which a small part is paid from the ex-
chequer, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £18 per
annum ; patrons, the Globe Insurance Company. The
church, built in 1775, being insufficient for the increased
population, and also in a dilapidated condition, a new
church was erected in 1842, at a cost exceeding £2500,
defrayed by heritors and feuars ; it is a handsome
structure in the later English style, with a square em-
battled tower, after a design by Mr. Tite, of London,
and contains 600 sittings. There is a place of wor-
ship for members of the United Original Secession.
The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £25. 17.,
with a house and garden, and the fees average about
£12 annually.
The Dollar Institution was founded in 1825, from the
proceeds of a legacy by Mr. John Macnab, a merchant
of London, who, in 1802, bequeathed £90,000 three
per cents, for the erection and endowment of a school,
or some other charitable institution, for the benefit of
the poor of his native parish. The trustees, who are
the minister and elders of the parish, appropriated the
funds to the establishment of a general seminary of in-
struction in all the various branches of learning, and
have appointed six masters, to each of whom they
give a minimum salary of £140 per annum, with a
large house and garden, and the privilege of taking
boarders. The branches taught, each by a separate
master, are, the English language, writing and arith-
metic, the Latin, Greek, and Oriental languages, the
modern languages, mathematics, drawing, and geogra-
phy. The number of scholars is about 300 ; and the
school fees, averaging £120 per annum, are paid to the
treasurer of the funds, which produce £2000 per an-
num. The buildings of the institution were erected
after a design by Mr. Playfair, of Edinburgh, at an
expense of about £t 0,000, and form a spacious struc-
ture in the Grecian style, 186 feet in length, and 63
feet in breadth. In the centre of the principal front is
a stately portico of six columns, supporting a cornice
and pediment ; and the upper portion of the walls is
crowned with a handsome parapet. The building con-
tains a hall and library forty-five feet square, lighted by
a cupola forty-five feet in height, supported on fluted
columns ; a museum, spacious class-rooms for the dif-
ferent masters, and other apartments. Around the
institution is a spacious lawn, and in the rear is a park
of seven acres, which has been formed into gardens
and nurseries, for the instruction of the pupils in horti-
culture and botany. Connected with the institution is
also an extensive infant school. The poor of Dollar
have the interest of other charitable bequests, in the
aggregate amounting to £319.
DOLPHINGSTON, a village, in the parish of Pres-
tonpans, county of Haddington, 1 mile (S. by W.)
284
from Prestonpans ; containing 63 inhabitants. This
place is on the road from Musselburgh to Tranent, from
which latter village it is distant, westward, about two
miles. Here are the ruins of an ancient building sup-
posed to have been a residence of monks, and there are
also some ruins of a family seat of the earls of Hynd-
ford.
DOLPHINTON, a parish, in the Upper ward of the
county of Lanark, 6 miles (S. W.) from Biggar ; con-
taining 305 inhabitants. This place, anciently Dolphins-
town, derived its name from Dolfine, elder brother of
Cospatrick, first earl of Dunbar, and who, in the reign
of Alexander I., acquired possession of the manor, which,
after passing through numerous families, of whom se-
veral were eminently distinguished, was divided among
various proprietors. The parish is about three miles in
length, from east to west, and two miles and a half in
breadth, and the surface, which has a gentle acclivity,
is tolerably level, with the exception of the hills of
Dolphinton and Keir, the former 1550, and the latter
900, feet above the level of the sea. The principal
stream is the Medwin, which, near Garveld House,
divides into two channels, the one flowing eastward
into the Tweed, and the other westward into the river
Clyde. There is also a small rivulet which, after re-
ceiving several tributary rills, falls into the Lyne. The
scenery is generally pleasing, but the want of wood
renders it less picturesque ; great numbers of young
plantations, however, have latterly been formed, which
will soon contribute much to its embellishment.
The soil is generally a dry friable loam, intermixed
with sand ; in some parts, a kind of clay with portions
of moss. The whole number of acres in the parish is
estimated at 3668, of which 2221 are arable, 444 in
woods and plantations, and the remainder, of which
probably 300 acres might be rendered arable, are rough
pasture and waste. The chief crops are oats and tur-
nips, and barley, wheat, and potatoes are also grown ;
the system of agriculture is improved, and considerable
progress has been made in draining, and much land
heretofore totally unproductive has been converted into
excellent meadow producing luxuriant crops of hay.
Attention is paid to the management of the dairy ; 200
milch-cows, chiefly of the Ayrshire breed, are kept on
the several farms, and about 100 head of young cattle
are annually reared. About 1000 sheep, also, are
annually fed, the greater number of which are of the
black-faced, and a few of the Cheviot breed. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £I9S8. The
substrata are, whinstone, sandstone, and freestone. Some
indications of lead-ore induced an attempt in search of
that mineral, but it was not attended with success; fire-
clay is obtained, and in the southern extremity of the
parish is found a kind of stone well adapted for ovens.
Dolphinton House and Newholm are handsome mansions
of modern erection. The road from Edinburgh to
Biggar intersects the parish.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Biggar and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale. The stipend of the incumbent
is £158, of which above two-thirds are received from
the exchequer; the manse was put into thorough repair
and enlarged in 1S2S, and the glebe comprises about
twelve acres, valued at £27. 10. per annum; patron,
Lord Douglas. The church is a tolerably substantial
DORE
D O RN
edifice, but inadequate to the wants of the population ;
it appears to have been built about two centuries since.
The parochial school is well conducted j the master
has a salary of £26, with a house and garden, and the
fees average about £15. He receives, also, the rent
of four acres of land bequeathed by William Brown,
in 1658, and now producing £8 per annum ; the in-
terest of 1000 merks by the same benefactor, for the
gratuitous instruction of poor children ; and 1 00
merks for instructing twenty children, bequeathed by
Mr. Bowie, in 1759. Mr. Bowie also bequeathed 100
merks for the education of any youth of promising
genius, or, in failure of such, to be appropriated to the
apprenticing of children ; fifty merks, either to the
poor, or for the purchase of school books for children ;
and fifty merks to the minister for managing the pro-
perty, which consists of lands at Stonypath, purchased
by the testator for 8000 merks, and given in trust to
the minister and Kirk Session for the above purposes.
On the summit of Keir hill are some remains of an
ancient camp in good preservation ; there are also
similar remains at other places in the parish. Within
less than a mile south-west of the manse, is a tumulus
of stones, about four feet in height, surrounded by a
circle of upright stones inclosing an area of twenty
paces in diameter. Near this spot was found an orna-
ment of fine gold, resembling part of a horse's bit, with
about forty gold beads ; stone coffins are frequently
found in various parts of the parish, of rude and ancient
construction, and numerous sepulchral remains.
DORE HOLM, an isle, in the parish of Northma-
vine, county of Shetland. It is situated in the bay
of St. Magnus, south of the mainland of the parish,
and derives its name from a remarkable arch which
passes through its centre, of lofty and capacious dimen-
sions, and admitting boatmen to fish in the waters
beneath, being lighted by an opening at the top. The
islet is one of the smallest of the Shetland group.
DORES, a parish, in the county of Inverness,
7| miles (S. S. W.) from Inverness ; containing 1745 inha-
bitants, of whom 80 are in the village. The ancient
name was Durris, a word derived from the Gaelic term
tur-ri-ish, signifying rising ground near water. The
parish is situated nearly at the northern extremity, and
on the eastern shore, of Loch Ness, by which an
elevated portion of the lands is washed ; and is be-
tween twenty and twenty-five miles in length, and
upwards of four miles in breadth, comprising about
24,000 acres, of which 4000 are arable, the same num-
ber wood and plantation, and the remainder moorland
pasture. A small part of the parish, containing twenty
inhabitants, is locally in the parish of Boleskine. The
surface is mountainous, with the exception of a narrow
valley which runs throughout the district, and on the
high grounds are several lochs ; the village is of small
extent, and situated near the church, and from it a
prospect is obtained, comprehending the whole of Loch
Ness, stretching for twenty-four miles. The soil in
the elevated parts is very superior, and, in seasons free
from frost and rain, produces excellent crops ; but the
low grounds are so hot in summer, that the corn and
grass are much injured, and in dry weather would be
parched up were it not for the copious dews falling in
the night. The chief mansions are those of Aldourie,
Eregie, and Gortleg. There is a salmon-fishery in
285
Loch Ness and the river Ness, and fine trout, pike, and
char are found in the other lochs ; the parish also once
contained a whisky distillery, in which about twelve
hands were employed. The post-road from Inverness
to Fort Augustus intersects the parish ; and Loch Ness,
on the line of the great Caledonian canal, affords every
facility for the importation of coal and lime, and the
exportation of timber and wool. The produce is usually
sent for sale to Inverness ; but salmon, sheep, and
fat cattle, are conveyed to the London market. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £3165. Dores
is in the presbytery of Inverness and synod of Mo-
ray, and in the patronage of the Earl Cawdor; the
minister's stipend is £142, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £S per annum. The church is a neat edifice,
built in 1S27, and there is a preaching-station in the
south-western part of the parish. The parochial school
affords instruction in the ordinary branches ; the mas-
ter has a salary of £30, with a house and garden, and
£10 fees. There is also an Assembly's school, and a
school is supported by the Society for Propagating
Christian Knowledge. The relics of antiquity com-
prise the remains of a vitrified fort called Castel-dun-
Rkhuan, or the Castle of the King of the Ocean ; and a
little to the east of this, is an eminence called Drum-
As hi, or Ashi's Hill, where, according to tradition, Fingal
fought with and killed Ashi, the son of the Norwegian
king. The distinguished statesman, Sir James Mackin-
tosh, author of Vindicim Gallicce, and recorder of Bombay,
was born here in 1765.
DORNIE and BUNDALOCH, a village, in the
parish of Kintail, county of Ross and Cromarty,
7 miles (N. N. W.) from Sheilhouse ; containing 510
inhabitants. This is a fishing village on the banks of
a branch of Loch Duich, from which the sea is entered
by Loch Alsh. There is a small bay, and Dornie and
Bundaloch immediately adjoin each other, and form
one village, in which are some houses of respectable
appearance ; the scenery around is very romantic, and
above the village are seen the mountains of Skye. In
the vicinity are the ruins of Ellandonan Castle, the
ancient seat of the Mackenzies of Seaforth, occupying
a rocky islet surrounded by the sea at flood-tide. This
castle is said to have been built by Alexander II., to
overawe the Danes and Norwegians ; and in the reign
of James V., the Macdonalds of Sleat in vain attempted
to besiege it. Directly opposite, on the coast of Letter-
fairn, are the remains of the ancient circular castle of
Gruagach. On the landward part of the islet is a fresh-
water spring.
DORNOCH, a royal
burgh, the county town, and
a parish, in the county of
Sutherland, 201 miles (N.
N. W.) from Edinburgh ;
containing 2714 inhabitants,
of whom 451 are in the
burgh. This place is sup-
posed to have derived its
name, Dor-Neich, signify-
ing in the Celtic language
a horse's hoof, from the
slaughter of a Danish gene-
ral, who made a descent upon this part of the coast in
1259, and was encountered by William, Thane of Suther-
Bursh Seal.
DORN
DORN
land, who, having lost his sword in the battle, seized
the leg of a horse lying on the ground, with which he
killed his adversary, and put his followers to flight. It
is of considerable antiquity, and in 1150 was an epis-
copal city, the residence of the bishops of Caithness,
within whose province the county of Sutherland was
included, and of whom Andrew is supposed to have
erected the cathedral. His successor, Gilbert Murray,
who was consecrated in 1222, greatly enlarged and
beautified the church, in which, upon his decease in
1245, at Caithness, where the bishops had also a resi-
dence, a statue was erected to his memory, under the
designation of St. Gilbert. After the death of John,
Earl of Sutherland, and his countess, who in 156~ were
both poisoned at Helmsdale, at the instigation of the
Earl of Caithness, Mc Kay of Far, taking advantage of
the minority of the young earl, then only fifteen years
of age, invaded the county of Sutherland, set fire to the
town of Dornoch, and laid waste the barony of Skibo.
The young ear], who then resided in the castle of Skibo,
was, through the persuasion of the bishop, given up to
the Earl of Caithness, by whom he was carried off, and
subsequently married to his daughter. In 1570, the
town and castle were besieged by the Laird of Duffus
and his adherents ; but being obstinately defended, they
set fire to the cathedra], which, with the exception only
of the tower, was completely destroyed. In 1614, the
Earl of Sutherland commenced rebuilding the cathedral,
which for many years served for a place of worship ; but
subsequently falling into decay, it was restored by the late
Duchess-Countess of Sutherland, during the years 1S35,
6, 7, 8, and 9, at a great, expense, and with a minute
regard to the original design ; and it at present forms
one of the most interesting religious edifices in the
kingdom. The lower portion of the structure contains
the tombs of the ancient earls, and those of the late
Duke and Duchess of Sutherland.
The town is situated on the western shore of Dor-
noch Frith, at the south-eastern extremity of the parish,
and consists of several spacious well-formed streets ;
the houses are of very inferior order, little better than
humble cottages, and though the county town, the place
has only the appearance of an insignificant hamlet.
There is a respectable inn for the accommodation of
travellers, at which the mail stops daily in its passage
to and from the north ; a post-office has been esta-
blished, and there are also a bank, a savings' bank, and
a friendly society. The market has been long declining,
and is now but little frequented ; fairs are held on the
first Wednesdays in February, July, November, and
December, for cattle, and on the third Wednesday in
March, and on the 20th of July (O. S.), if on Wednes-
day, or if not, on the first Wednesday after. The town
was erected into a royal burgh in 1628, by charter of
Charles I., under which the government is vested in a
provost, four bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and
eight councillors ; it is also the residence of the sheriff-
substitute and his officers. There are no incorporated
trading companies, nor have the burgesses any exclusive
privileges ; the jurisdiction of the magistrates, though
equal in extent to that of royal burghs, is little more
than nominal, and few, if any, causes either civil or
criminal are brought for their decision. The tower of
the ancient episcopal castle is appropriated as a court-
house ; and a new county prison has been very recently
286
erected, possessing every requisite for the complete
classification and the employment of prisoners. The
burgh is associated with those of Cromarty, Dingwall,
Kirkwall, Tain, and ( Wick, in returning a member to
the imperial parliament; the number of qualified voters
is twenty-two.
The parish is bounded on the east and south by
Dornoch Frith, and on the north-east by Loch Fleet,
and is about fifteen miles in length, and nine in breadth.
The surface towards the sea is generally flat, and in
other parts diversified with hills of no very considerable
height. The principal rivers are, the Carnaig, which rises
to the south of Torboll, and flows through a strath into
Loch Fleet, near the sands of Torboll ; and the Evelix,
whose source is near the head of the valley through
which it flows, between richly-wooded banks, into Dor-
noch Frith near the Muckle ferry. The coast, with
the exception of a few small rocks at Embo, to the
north of the town, is flat and sandy. At the south ex-
tremity is the Muckle ferry, connecting the parish with
the county of Ross ; and at the northern extremity is
the Little ferry, forming an excellent harbour in Loch
Fleet, across which an earthen mound nearly 1000 feet in
length has been constructed by the parliamentary com-
missioners, at a cost of £12,000, affording communica-
tion between the parishes of Golspie and Dornoch. The
rivers contain trout, which are also found in several
small lakes among the hills. The soil, though gene-
rally light, varies from a sandy moss to clay alternated
with sand ; the crops are, oats, barley, wheat, potatoes,
and turnips. The system of agriculture has been greatly
improved within the last few years ; extensive tracts of
waste have been reclaimed and rendered profitable, and
more than 6000 acres are now arable and in good cul-
tivation. The farm-buildings are mostly substantial and
comfortable ; and attached to several of the farms are
threshing-mills, of which some are driven by water.
The cattle pastured are of the Highland black breed,
and the sheep chiefly of the Cheviot, lately introduced.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £3336.
There are many thousand acres of woodland on the
Sutherland estate, consisting of Scotch fir, larch, birch,
alder, and various hard-wood trees, all in a thriving
state. Coal has been found at Clashmore, and freestone
of good quality for building occurs in various places ;
near the town is a large quarry, and at Embo and in
other parts of the parish are quarries on a less extensive
scale. Skibo Castle, a modern structure, erected on
the site of the ancient castle of that name, is a hand-
some family residence. The chief villages are, the fish-
ing village of Embo, situated on the coast between the
town of Dornoch and the Little ferry, and the pleasant
village of Clashmore, in which is a commodious inn,
about three miles to the north of the Muckle ferry, and
the same distance from Dornoch. The ecclesiastical
affairs are under the superintendence of the presbytery
of Dornoch and synod of Sutherland and Caithness.
The minister's stipend is £266. 13., with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £10 per annum ; patron, the Duke of
Sutherland. The church, formerly the cathedral, is a
venerable structure containing 1 100 sittings. A place
of worship has recently been erected for the members of
the Free Church. The parochial school is held in a
portion of the episcopal palace ; the master has a salary
of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees average £6.
D O R N
DOUG
There are some remains of the ancient castle of Skelbo,
on an eminence rising from the sea near the Little ferry;
and the cross erected in commemoration of the exploit
from which the burgh is supposed to have taken its
name, and to which the common seal has an allusion, is,
though much defaced, still remaining.
DORNOCK, a parish, in the county of Dumfries ;
including the village of Lowthertown, and containing
S47 inhabitants, of whom 203 are in the village, 2 miles
(E. by S.) from Annan. The name of this place is
usually derived from the Celtic words tor or dor, sig-
nifying an oak or wood, and nock, a knowe or hill, and
is said to have been applied in consequence of the forests
of oak once growing here. According to a prevailing
tradition, a battle was fought upon a moor in the neigh-
bourhood, between a party of English under Sir Mar-
maduke Langdale and Lord Crosby, and a body of
Scots under Sir William Brown, of Coalston, in which
the English were defeated, and both their commanders
slain. The supposed graves of the two leaders are still
shown in the churchyard, and a spring near the spot
where the battle was fought bears the name of the
Sword well. At Stapleton is a strong square tower,
with battlements on the top, built by a person of the
name of Irvine, it is supposed as a place of safety
against the depredations of the English borderers. The
parish reaches from east to west about two miles and
a half, and from the Solway Frith, on the south, to the
river Kirtle, on the north, measures five miles, com-
prising about 5000 acres. It contains some beautiful
scenery, and is much frequented for its sea air and
bathing, its extent along the coast being about three
miles. The small river Kirtle and the Solway com-
prehend the chief of its waters ; in the former eels and
pike are found, and in the latter, salmon in considerable
quantity, though not in such abundance as formerly.
The whole of the land is under tillage, with the ex-
ception of such portions as are necessary to support
farm-stock ; the mosses, which alone are uncultivated,
amount to about 300 acres, and 150 acres are planta-
tion. Oats and barley are the only grain sown, and
potatoes and turnips, with large quantities of hay, are
the chief green crops, and all are of very good quality ;
the soil is in general productive, and is of a loamy
nature, with a hard tilly bottom. The cattle are of the
Galloway breed, and about 200 cows are kept for the
dairy ; a considerable number of swine are annually
fattened, and are salted, made into hams, and sent to
England. The best system of husbandry is adopted ;
the manure used is farm-yard dung and lime ; draining
has been carried on to a good extent, and improvements
are still in progress. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £3503. Robgill Tower, an old border fortress,
modernised, and now the residence of the Smail family,
is beautifully seated on the banks of the Kirtle. The
village of Dornock is pleasantly situated upon a gentle
eminence about a mile from the coast, and commands
a fine view of the Frith ; a third of the inhabitants are
engaged in hand-loom weaving and the manufacture of
checks and ginghams. The great turnpike-road from
Carlisle to Portpatrick runs through the centre of the
parish from east to west ; a mail passes daily, and a
coach to Edinburgh travels three times a week through
the village. The ecclesiastical affairs are directed
by the presbytery of Annan and synod of Dumfries ;
patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. There is a manse, built
in 1S45, with a glebe valued at £25 per annum, and the
stipend is £20S. The church, built in 1797, is a plain
unadorned structure, containing 300 sittings : in the
churchyard are some ancient and very curious tomb-
stones. There is a parochial school, in which all the
usual branches of education, and sometimes Greek and
Latin, and also mathematics, are taught ; the master
has a salary of £34, with about £20 fees, and the allow-
ance of a house and garden, with an acre of land. The
remains of a Druidical temple exist in the eastern part
of the parish, on the farm of Eastiiggs ; at the distance
of about 200 yards west of it, is a large cairn ; and at
the same distance eastward is another, of smaller dimen-
sions. Old British coins and pieces of armour are some-
times found.
DOUGLAS, a market-town and parish, in the Upper
ward of the county of Lanark ; including the village of
Uddington, and containing 2467 inhabitants, of whom
1313 are in the town of Douglas, 5 miles (S. S. E.) from
Crawfordjohn, and 40| (S. W. by S.) from Edinburgh.
This place derives its name from the ancient and re-
nowned family of Douglas, to whose ancestor Theobald,
by birth a Fleming, Arnold, abbot of Kelso, gave a large
tract of land about the middle of the twelfth century.
William, son of Theobald, appears as a witness to
various charters granted towards the close of that cen-
tury ; and in 12S9 his descendant, William Douglas,
was one of the Scottish barons who signed an address
to Edward I. of England, on behalf of their countrymen.
During the protracted warfare between England and
Scotland in the reign of that monarch, Douglas Castle,
which was strongly fortified, and commanded the en-
trance to the western counties, was an object of conti-
nual dispute between the contending parties. It fre-
quently fell into the hands of the English, from whom
it was as frequently retaken by its original proprietors.
On one occasion it was taken from Sir John De Walton,
who held it for the English, by Sir James Douglas,
who, having assembled a strong retinue of his friends,
entered the town on Palm-Sunday, while part of the
garrison were at. church, and attacking them as they
came out, put them to the sword, and, immediately ad-
vancing to the castle, made himself master of the place.
The castle, exposed to continual assaults, was of very
precarious tenure, and, from the difficulty of maintain-
ing possession, was distinguished by the appellation of
the Castle of Danger. It was often destroyed, and more
than once by fire ; but it was always restored, and con-
tinued in the possession of the earls of Douglas till
1455, when it was forfeited, together with the estates,
and granted to the Earl of Angus, in whose family it
remained till the death of the Duke of Douglas in 17 60.
The issue of the famous Douglas cause now vested the
estate in the duke's nephew ; and in 1790 the title, which
had become extinct, was revived by the elevation of
Mr. Douglas to the peerage, by the title of Baron
Douglas, of Douglas.
The parish is situated near the south-western extre-
mity of the county, and is about twelve miles in length,
and from four to seven miles in breadth, comprising
35,318 acres, of which about 5000 are arable, 2S,000
pasture, 2000 wood, and 400 waste land and moss. The
Douglas river intersects the parish, flowing through a
valley which increases in breadth as it approaches the
DOUG
DOUG
river Clyde, into which the Douglas discharges itself,
after receiving in its course numerous tributary streams.
The ground on both sides of the valley rises to a consi-
derable elevation, forming in some parts a succession of
hills which terminate towards the west in the Cairntable
mountain, whose summit is 1650 feet above the level of
the sea, and at the base of which the Douglas has its
source. The heights on each side of the river are em-
bellished with ornamental plantations ; and in various
parts of the parish are extensive woods of ancient and
luxuriant growth, especially near Douglas Castle, in the
grounds of which are some ash and plane trees of large
dimensions. The soil is generally fertile in the vale ;
in other parts lighter and gravelly, and in some a stiff
clay ; and the moors, though partly marshy, afford fine
sheep-walks, and in many places consist of rich black
loam. The principal crops are, oats, barley, and bear,
with occasionally wheat, the cultivation of which has
been recently introduced with success, but on a very
small scale ; turnips and potatoes, for which the soil is
favourable, are raised in large quantities. The pastures
are very extensive and rich, and great numbers of sheep
are reared, to the improvement of which much atten-
tion is paid ; the average number exceeds 25,000, chiefly
of the black-faced breed, which has been brought to
great perfection. The parish contains numerous dairy-
farms, producing cheese and butter of superior quality ;
the cows, of which the number kept is about 500, are
the Ayrshire, and about the same number of black-cattle
are fed. There are quarries of freestone of excellent
quality, for building; it is of a fine white colour, and is
much admired. Limestone is also prevalent, and is
quarried for manure and other purposes ; coal is very
abundant, and numerous mines have been opened, af-
fording supplies of fuel to the places situated to the
south and east, and giving employment to a great num-
ber of the population. Ironstone is found in several
parts of the parish, though not worked ; and in others
its prevalence may be inferred from the property of
many of the springs, which are strongly impregnated
with that mineral. Great advances have been made in
draining and inclosing the lands, and the rateable an-
nual value of the parish is now £1 1,013.
Douglas Castle, the seat of Lord Douglas, is beauti-
fully situated in grounds that were very much improved
by the late proprietor. The castle, which was partly
rebuilt, after being destroyed by an accidental fire, has
not, though a splendid seat in its present state, been
completed according to the original plan designed by
Mr. Adam ; one wing only has been finished, and from
the dimensions of this, which contains more than fifty
apartments, some of them magnificent, the whole would
have formed one of the most extensive residences in the
kingdom. The scene of Castle-Dangerous, the last novel
of Sir Walter Scott, was laid here. The other gen-
tlemen's seats in the parish are, Carmacoup, Spring
Hill, and Crossburn House, an elegant villa, of which
the grounds are tastefully disposed. The town or vil-
lage is of very great antiquity, and was formerly of
some importance. As the head of the barony, it had
a charter of incorporation giving to its magistrates many
privileges, among which was the power of jurisdiction
in capital offences ; and to the east of the town is an
eminence called Gallow Hill, formerly the place for the
execution of criminals. The streets are narrow, and
288
most of the houses are of ancient date, and apparently
built for defence against the frequent incursions of an
enemy ; the walls are massive, and the windows few
and rather small, presenting a forbidding and gloomy
appearance. A subscription library has been founded,
which at present contains more than 1000 volumes, and
is rapidly increasing. A cotton-factory was established
here in 1792, by a company from Glasgow, which after
a few years declined ; but many of the inhabitants are
still employed in weaving cotton for the manufacturers
of that city, with handlooms in their own dwellings.
The market is held on Friday, and there are seven fairs,
which are well attended. The road from Edinburgh to
Ayr, and that from Glasgow to London, pass through
the parish, affording facility of intercourse with the
principal towns in the neighbourhood ; but as a place
of trade, the town is at present little more than a vil-
lage for the residence of persons employed in weaving,
and in other mechanical occupations.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Lanark and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr. The stipend of the incumbent is £250 ;
the manse is a handsome residence, built in 1S28, and
pleasantly situated in grounds well laid out, and the
glebe comprises some valuable land. Of the ancient
church, which appears to have been a very stately and
elegant structure, little more remains than the sepul-
chral chapel of the Douglas family, with a small spire ;
it contains many monuments, which, though much mu-
tilated and defaced by Cromwell's soldiers during the
usurpation, still display features of exquisite sculpture.
Among them is the monument of Sir James Douglas,
the firm adherent and friend of Robert Bruce, who fell
in combat, in Spain, and whose remains were conveyed
by his companions in arms for interment in the church
of his native place. It is of dark-coloured stone, and
bears the recumbent figure of a knight armed cap-a pie,
with the legs crossed, in reference to his having been on
a crusade to the Holy Land. There is also a monument
to Archibald Douglas, Duke of Touraine, which appears
to have been of elaborate workmanship ; and in a niche
is a table monument to James Douglas, Duke of Tou-
raine, with two recumbent figures, and ornamented
with ten figures in basso-relievo beneath. The present
church, a comparatively modern building, is not suffi-
ciently spacious for the accommodation of the parish-
ioners : underneath it is a vault in which are depo-
sited the remains of numerous members of the Douglas
family, for which the ancient sepulchral chapel afforded
no room. The parochial school is well attended ; the
master has the maximum salary, with an excellent
dwelling-house and garden, and the fees amount to
about £60. Near the base of Cairntable mountain,
are the remains of a fortified post, probably occupied
by the Douglases during their repeated attempts to sur-
prise the English garrisons that so frequently held pos-
session of Douglas Castle; and within a mile of the castle
are the remains of a stronghold called Tothorl Castle,
supposed to have been thrown up by Sir Richard de
Thirlwall, who was lieutenant-governor of Douglas
under Sir Robert de Clifford. Within the castle-grounds
is a mound designated Boncastle, near which has been
found an urn, with a great number of human bones,
a ring of pure gold of great weight, the head of a spear,
and various other relics of antiquity. There are also
D O U N
DOUN
several cairns in the parish. Among the most distin-
guished natives of this place, for literary attainments,
was Dr. John Black, author of the Life of Tasso and
other works.
DOUGLAS, CASTLE.— See Castle-Douglas.
DOUGLASTON, a manufacturing village, in the
parish of Kinnettles, county of Forfar, 3 miles
(S. W.) from Forfar; containing SI inhabitants. This
place derives its name from the late Robert Douglas,
Esq., by whom it was erected in 1/92, for the accom-
modation of the persons employed in his extensive
works. A spinning-mill, of stone, roofed with blue slate
from the quarries of the parish, and four stories in
height, was completed here towards the close of the last
century ; and the introduction of the spinning of yarn,
which furnished employment to a considerable number
of hands, was followed up by the erection of looms for
weaving the yarn into various fabrics, of which the
principal were Osnaburgs, Hessians, and brown and
bleached sheetings. The machinery is of the most im-
proved kind, and is propelled partly by a steam-engine
of seven-horse power, and partly by water-power equal
to that of five horses. The village is pleasantly situated
on the banks of the Kerbit rivulet, over which is a very
handsome stone bridge of three arches, erected in the
year 1770. A branch post between Forfar and Glammis
delivers letters here ; and the turnpike-road from Dun-
dee to Forfar, and also the Strathmore road, pass through
the villaae.
DOUNE, a town, in the parish of Kilmadock,
county of Perth, S miles (N. W.) from Stirling, and 44
(N. W. by W.) from Edinburgh ; containing 1559 inha-
bitants. This place, which is situated on the banks of
the river Teith, near its confluence with the Ardoch,
owes its origin to a castle founded here, according to
some, but disputed, accounts, by Murdoch, grandson of
Robert II., and who in 1370 was created Earl of Mon-
teith, and in 1398 Duke of Albany. Murdoch was
taken prisoner by the English, at the battle of Homel-
den, in 1401, and detained in captivity till the year
1411, when he was exchanged for Percy, Earl of North-
umberland, from which time he continued to live in re-
tirement till the death of his father in 1420, when he
succeeded to the regency, which, however, after a dis-
astrous government of four years, he resigned. Subse-
quently a charge of high treason was preferred against
him, his two sons, Walter and Alexander, and his father-
in-law, Duncan, Earl of Lennox, who were all seized
and carried prisoners to Stirling, where, after being
brought to trial and found guilty, they were beheaded.
Isabella, the wife of Murdoch, was taken from the
castle of Doune, and conveyed to that of Tantallan, in
Lothian, where, upon their decapitation, the heads of
her father, husband, and children were sent to her in
her prison, with a view to extort a revelation of the
alleged treason ; but she heroically replied, that " if the
crime alleged against the parties were true, the king had
done justly and according to law."
The castle of Doune was seized by James I., and
annexed to the crown, of which it continued to form an
appendage till the year 1502, when Margaret, daughter
of Henry VII. of England, on her marriage to James IV.,
obtained it as part of her settlement. After the death
of James IV., Margaret married, in 152S, Henry, Lord
Methven, a descendant of Murdoch, Duke of Albany,
Vol. I.— 289
and, with the consent of her husband, granted to James
Stuart, a younger brother of Lord Methven, the con-
stableship of the castle for life. This grant was con-
firmed to him and to his heirs for ever, by James V.,
and the office is still held by his descendant, the pre-
sent Earl of Moray. Mary, Queen of Scots, and her
husband, Lord Darnley, frequently made the castle
their resort as a hunting-seat; and in 1745 it was gar-
risoned by Mc Gregor of Glengyle, nephew of Rob Roy,
who held it for Prince Charles Edward. A party of
royalist volunteers from the university of Edinburgh,
among whom was Home, the author of Douglas, having
in one of their excursions ventured as far as the Teith,
were all captured by Glengyle, and confined in the
castle, from which they ultimately effected their escape
by climbing over the walls, as related by Mr. Home in
his History of the Rebellion of 1745. The remains, situ-
ated on a peninsular eminence, at the confluence of the
Teith and Ardoch, convey a tolerably adequate idea of
the ancient magnificence of the castle ; the walls, though
roofless, are still entire, forty feet in height and ten feet.
in thickness, inclosing a quadrilateral area ninety-six
feet in length, and of equal breadth. In the north-east
angle is a massive tower eighty feet in height, and at
the opposite angle is another tower, forty feet high.
The great hall is sixty-three feet in length, and twenty-
five feet wide ; and the kitchen, and many of the family
apartments, are spacious and in tolerable preservation.
In the lower portions of the building are several cells
and dungeons of frightful appearance ; the whole of
the ruins have a stately and imposing aspect, and, from
their situation, form a strikingly romantic feature in
the scenery.
The town, which has been much improved since the
establishment of the cotton-works in the adjacent village
of Dcanston, consists principally of three streets diverg-
ing from the market cross, which is situated on the spot
where the roads from Bridge of Teith and Callander
meet. The houses are generally of neat appearance,
and several of the more modern of handsome character.
The manufacture of Highland pistols was formerly car-
ried on here to a great extent, and thus the town was
in high reputation ; the pistols made varied in price
from two to twenty-four guineas per pair, and were
supplied to most of the nobility of Europe. The manu-
facture of Highland purses was also extensive, but these
have totally disappeared, and the population is at pre-
sent chiefly employed in agriculture or in the adjacent
manufactory. A post-office is established here, which
has a tolerable delivery ; and there is a savings' bank in
the town. Fairs are held on the second Wednesday in
February, for the sale of grain and for general business;
the second Wednesday in May, for milch cows and
cattle ; the last Wednesday in July, for horses and
cattle, the hiring of shearers, and other business ; the
first Tuesday and Wednesday in November, for sheep
and black-cattle ; the last Wednesday in that month,
for horses and cattle ; and the last Wednesday in
December, for fat cattle, grain, and general business.
Facility of communication is afforded by parish and
turnpike roads, as well as by the Edinburgh and Glasgow
railway, to which there are regular conveyances. The
members of the Free Church have two places of wor-
ship. Doune gives the title of Baron to the Earl of
Moray. — See Kilmadock.
2 P
D R A I
D R A I
DOURA, a village, in the parish of Kilwinning,
district of Cunninghams, county of Ayr, 3| miles
(N. E. by E.) from Irvine ; containing 320 inhabitants.
This place is situated on the road from Irvine to Dun-
lop, and between the Annock water on the south-east
and the Lugton river on the west; the population is
chiefly employed in the coal-mines in the vicinity. A
branch of the Glasgow and Ayr railway, proceeding
from the collieries here, supplies Ardrossan and various
other places with coal, which is very abundant in the
parish. Large school premises, with a play-ground,
and a house for the master, have lately been erected,
at the expense of the Earl of Eglinton.
DOVECOTLAND, a village, in the East parish of
the city and county of Perth ; containing 502 inha-
bitants.— See Perth.
DOVEHILL, a village, in the Abbey parish of the
town of Paisley ; forming part of the late quoad sacra
parish of Levern, Upper ward of the county of Ren-
frew, and containing 131 inhabitants.
DOWALLY, county of Perth. — See Dunkeld.
DOWNIES, a village, in the parish of Banchory-
Devenick, county of Kincardine, S miles (S.) from
Aberdeen ; containing 122 inhabitants. It is a small
fishing-village, on the eastern coast, and lying in the
extreme south point of the parish. There is a very
convenient cove here for fishing-boats, of which several
belong to the place, each manned with four or five
hands, employed in white-fishing, and sometimes visit-
ing the Moray Frith in the herring season.
DRAINIE, a parish, in the county of Elgin; includ-
ing the villages of Lossiemouth and Stotfield, and con-
taining 1515 inhabitants, of whom 16 are in the hamlet
of Drainie, 4 miles (N.) from Elgin. This parish con-
sists of the ancient parishes of Kinnedar, a parsonage,
and Ogston, a mensal church, of which latter, disjoined
from St. Andrew's, and annexed to Kinnedar, in 1642,
the Bishop of Moray received the great teinds : the name
of Drainie, belonging to an estate on which a new church
was built about the year 1666, was after that event
applied to the whole parish. The parish is partly a
peninsula, as its ancient name of Kinnedar implies, and
is bounded on the north by the Moray Frith, on the east
by the river Lossie, and on the south by the lake of Spynie,
a piece of fresh water three miles in length and one in
breadth, well stocked with eels and pike, and the resort
of numerous aquatic birds. It is about four miles long
and two broad, and comprises 4480 acres, of which
3385 are in tillage, 365 underwood, and the remainder
uncultivated. The coast is bold and rocky ; and at the
distance of a mile from the shore, opposite to the Coulard
and Causea hills, is a dangerous reef, the dread of
mariners, the centre of which, however, being always
above water, serves as a beacon for avoiding the lower
branches, stretching along unseen to a considerable dis-
tance on each side. There is a harbour at the village of
Lossiemouth, at the mouth of the river, and the nume-
rous caves and fissures near the hamlet, of Causea or
Cove-sea, constitute a distinct and interesting feature.
The whole of the rock in this latter direction is a con-
tinuous mass of freestone, the softer parts of which, by
the action of the winds and waves, have been wrought
into a great variety of arches and pillars ; a little to the
west is a cave, once the cell of a hermit, and used by
Sir Robert Gordon in the rebellion of 1745, for conceal-
290
ing his horses, when the followers of 'Prince Charles
were ravaging this district, and farther in the same
direction are many other caverns, but the coast is too
rugged and dangerous to allow them to be explored.
All the low lands in the parish were formerly covered
by the sea, which, when it receded, left a beach of stones
rising from eight to twenty feet in height above the level
of the lands under tillage, and which is beneficial as a
protection from the storms on the north. The interior
is flat, and the soil of great diversity of quality, good
and bad alternating with each other in rapid succession
throughout. The low-drained grounds consist of a rich
loam or clayey marl, and produce fine crops ; the higher
lands have a lighter soil, resting upon a gravelly bed or
on white sand, and the central portion is of the worst
description, having been denuded of its surface for the
purposes of fuel. The usual white and green crops
are raised, in some parts of superior quality, and the
six-shift course is followed ; but husbandry is in a com-
paratively low state, very little land having undergone
the process of draining, and some of the modern im-
provements being only partially in operation. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £5208. The freestone
from the Causea quarries supplies abundance of stone,
which has been extensively used for ornamental work in
the mansions of this and several adjacent counties ; and
in the fluor-spar rocks of the Coulard hill, lead has been
discovered of superior quality, near which there is a bed
of limestone. A vein of lead was found and worked
about the close of the last century, but the operation was
discontinued, the return being found inadequate to the
expense. The plantations, of very limited extent, con-
sist of fir irregularly scattered about the waste tract in
the middle of the parish, and one or two clumps in the
south-east. The mansion of Gordonstown, situated on
the estate of that name, the seat of the Cummings, is a
large structure in the Dutch style, repaired and enlarged
in 1730, and the residence for several centuries of the
Gordons, of Gordonstown.
The parish is in the presbytery of Elgin and synod of
Moray, and in the patronage of Sir William Gordon
Gordon Cumming, of Altyre and Gordonstown, Bart. ;
the minister's stipend is £242, with a manse, and a glebe
of six acres. The present church was built in 1823,
nearly in the centre of the parish, but somewhat incon-
veniently for the villages, where the bulk of the popula-
tion, which is rapidly increasing, is situated. The paro-
chial school, in the western portion of the parish, affords
instruction in the usual branches ; the master has a salary
of £36, with £6 fees, and also participates in the benefit
of the Dick bequest. A charitable fund, raised by sub-
scription in 1806, for the benefit of the families of twenty-
one seamen who lost their lives in a storm, till lately
afforded relief to the objects for whom the collection was
made, by an annual distribution of the proceeds. There
is a burial-ground containing a stone cross eight, feet high,
at the west-end of the parish, covered with grave-stones,
and formerly the site of the ancient church of Ogston ;
here now stands the splendid mausoleum of the Gordon
family, and about half a mile to the east is the ruin of a
church built, in 1666. A mile farther eastward is the
burial-ground of Kinnedar, where stood the church of
that name, the foundations of which are now scarcely dis-
cernible ; and adjoining are the remains of the castle of
Kinnedar, a very strong and extensive fortification, called
D R E G
D R O N
also the episcopal palace, where Archibald, the tenth
bishop of Moray, and other bishops, resided before the
cathedral was fixed at Spynie. On the summit of the
Causea hills is a range of artificial conical mounds of
earth, styled the " warlike hills," at nearly equal distances,
and from twenty to thirty feet in height, constructed for
signal stations, and used at different periods by the pos-
sessors of the lands for communicating important inform-
ation and various other purposes.
DREGHORN, a parish, in the district of Cunning-
hame, county of Ayr, 2 miles (E. by S.) from Irvine ;
containing 1222 inhabitants. This place anciently formed
part of the property of the De Morvilles, constables of
Scotland, whose ancestor appears to have obtained large
possessions here in the reign of Alexander I., and from
whose family it passed, with the heiress of William de
Morville, to Ronald, Lord of Galloway. Ronald's grand-
daughter, Helen, early in the thirteenth century, married
Roger de Quincy, Earl of Winchester, who, in her right,
became constable of Scotland, and proprietor of the De
Morville estates ; and the lands were subsequently con-
veyed, by marriage with his daughters, co-heiresses, to
William de Ferrars and Alan de la Zouch, ancestors of the
present Marquess Townshend and the lords Ashby-de-la-
Zouch, in the county of Leicester. The estates, however,
were soon after forfeited to the crown, from the adher-
ence of those noblemen to the interests of John Baliol ;
and the barony of Dreghorn was granted by Robert
Bruce to Sir Alan Stewart, who was killed in the battle
of Hallidown Hill, and whose descendants, afterwards
earls of Darnley and Lennox, retained possession of it
till the year 1520. It then became the property of
Hugh, first earl of Eglinton, and his descendant is the
present proprietor. The parish is about eight miles in
length, and varies from three-quarters of a mile to two
miles in breadth ; it is bounded on the west and north
by the Annock water, on the east by the Gawreer burn,
and on the south by the Irvine river. It comprises
4477 acres, of which 1500 are arable, 2750 meadow and
pasture, and about 120 woodland and plantations. The
surface is level towards the sea, and rises in gentle un-
dulations inland ; the scenery throughout is pleasingly
picturesque, and the banks of the Annock abound with
natural beauty, heightened by several handsome villas
and seats embosomed in thriving plantations.
The soil is for the greater part a deep rich loam, and
in other places intermixed with gravel ; the chief crops
are barley and wheat, with potatoes and turnips. The
system of agriculture is in an advanced state, and the
rotation plan of husbandry generally adopted ; much
of the land has been improved by draining. Great
attention is paid to the management of dairy-farms ;
butter and Dunlop cheese are sent to the adjacent mar-
kets, and all due regard is paid to the improvement of
the breed of live-stock. The cows on the dairy-farms
are the Ayrshire, and the sheep are mostly of the black-
faced and Cheviot kinds, with a few of the South Down
breed, recently introduced. Coal abounds in the neigh-
bourhood, and is extensively worked, and freestone of
excellent quality is found ; limestone, also, is quarried in
the north-east part of the parish. The rateable annual
value of Dreghorn is £10,130. Annock Lodge is a hand-
some residence situated on the south bank of the Annock,
in a tastefully-ornamented demesne, enriched with
thriving plantations ; and Pierceton, Righouse, Cunning-
291
ham Head, and Warrickhill are also good houses. The
village is on the road from Kilmarnock to Irvine, and is
irregularly built upon a gentle acclivity commanding a
view of the sea ; most of the houses are of ancient
appearance, and the general aspect, from the number of
old trees with which the buildings are interspersed, is
cheerful and extremely pleasing. The parish is in the
presbytery of Irvine and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and
in the patronage of Lady Montgomerie. The minister's
stipend is £250, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£13 per annum. The church, situated in the village, is a
substantial edifice erected within the last seventy years,
and adapted for a congregation of 430 persons. The paro-
chial school affords education to about 100 scholars; the
master has a salary of £29. 18., with £50 fees, and a
house and garden. There is also a school which has a
small endowment in addition to the fees.
DRON, a parish, in the county of Perth, 1| mile
(S.S.E.) from Bridge of Earn ; containing 441 inhabitants.
The name in the Gaelic tongue signifies a projection, a
term descriptive of the locality in which the church and
manse are placed. The parish lies a mile south of the
river Earn, and, including a tongue of land in Dun-
barny parish, penetrating it, measures in length, from
east to west, between three and four miles ; it extends
about three miles in breadth, comprising 4100 acres,
and of these 2600 are under cultivation, 400 in wood,
and the remainder hill pasture. It consists principally
of a tract sloping towards the north from the Ochil
hills, which form the southern boundary of the beau-
tiful vale of Strathearn ; and exhibits a series of well-
cultivated and inclosed fields, seen to great advantage
by travellers passing along the high road. Some of the
hills 011 the southern extremity of the parish are orna-
mented with extensive plantations of fir, birch, ash, and
other trees, disposed in belts and clumps ; and the re-
maining high grounds in this direction present in gene-
ral a smooth and verdant surface. Several rivulets run
from the hilly parts, and the Farg, which abounds with
fine trout, after flowing, from its source in the Ochil
range five or six miles distant, through a deep, narrow,
and well-wooded glen of great beauty, forms a boun-
dary line between this parish and that of Abernethy,
and falls into the Earn at Culfargie. The soil varies
in quality according to its proximity to the hills. The
lands verging towards the north are clayey and loamy,
with some till, and produce rich crops of wheat, barley,
oats, potatoes, turnips, clover, peas, and beans. On the
higher grounds, however, the earth is more shallow and
mixed with rock; the best crops in this division, con-
sisting of barley, oats, turnips, and potatoes, are pro-
duced chiefly in the flats and hollows, the other parts
being too much exposed to high winds for successful
farming, and large tracts are wholly unfit for culti-
vation, and afford only indifferent pasture for sheep
and cattle. The husbandry in general is of a superior
character, and in progress of improvement, especially
in regard to tile-draining, which is extensively practised,
and is particularly adapted to the soil, it being for the
most part retentive and clayey. The substratum is
freestone, which is occasionally quarried ; and the in-
dications of the existence of coal are so great that
many attempts to find it have been made since the
year 1758, though without success. The rateable an-
nual value of the parish is £4300.
2 P2
DRUM
DRUM
The chief residence is Balmanno Castle, once the seat
of the Murrays, baronets of Balmanno, and now the
property of the nephew of the last baronet, who was
killed at the age of twenty-two at Long Island, in
the American war : the edifice, part of which is very
ancient, is still in excellent preservation, and is con-
sidered a fine specimen of an old castle and mansion-
house. There is also a neat modern mansion called
Glenearn. The high road from Edinburgh to Perth
runs through the parish ; farming produce is sent for
sale to Perth, Newburgh, and Kinross, and large ship-
ments of potatoes are made to London. Dron is in
the presbytery of Perth and synod of Perth and Stir-
ling, and in the patronage of the Crown ; the minister's
stipend is £180, with a manse and glebe valued at about
£45 per annum, and £4 per annum in lieu of coal.
The church was built about the year 1816, and is a
plain neat edifice, beautifully situated on an eminence
at the base of the Ochils, commanding extensive views
of the picturesque scenery of part of Strathearn, the
Carse of Gowrie, and the Ochil range. The parochial
school affords instruction in the ordinary branches ;
the master receives a salary of £34, and his premises
and the school-house have been lately rebuilt at a cost
of £560. In the churchyard is the grave-stone of John
Welwood, a celebrated minister in the time of Charles
II., who died at Perth in 16/9, and was buried here
during the night. An old chapel with a burial-ground,
formerly standing at the entrance of Glenfarg, has been
pulled down to give place to the new Edinburgh road ;
and the ruin of another yet remains in the west end of
the parish. On the southern declivity of a hill oppo-
site the church, is a large mass of whinstone, about
ten feet long and seven broad, and deviating from the
perpendicular, called the rocking-stone of Dron.
DRONLEY, a village, in the parish of Auchter-
house, county of Forfar, 2 miles (N. by E.) from
Liff; containing 103 inhabitants. This is a neat and
pleasing village, situated a little east of the road be-
tween Dundee and Meigle. A fine rivulet issuing from
the lake of Lundie, and running along the southern
border of the parish, is here joined by another small
stream, and both uniting form the Dighty water, which
empties itself into the Tay four miles east of Dundee.
DRUMBLADE, a parish, in the district of Strath-
bogie, county of Aberdeen, 5 miles (E.) from Huntly ;
containing 945 inhabitants. The ancient name of this
parish, Drumblait, which is Gaelic, signifies " covered
hills or braes." King Robert Bruce is said to have
lain encamped here during a time of severe sickness,
and to have kept in check Comyn, Earl of Buchan, one
of the most powerful of the Scottish barons, who had
pursued him hither, just before the battle of Barra,
which was fought between them in the year 1307. The
spot where the king intrenched himself was a height
upon Sliach, still called " Robin's height." Some years
ago, vestiges were visible of an encampment supposed
to have been a part of the works of Bruce's station : and
some tumuli, as well as immense masses of stone yet
remaining in the vicinity, are said to have been con-
nected with the same fortifications. A hill called "the
battle hill" is thought to have been the scene of a
conflict, at a later period, between the Cummings and
the Gordons. The parish is about six miles in its
greatest length, and between four and five miles in its
292
greatest breadth, and contains above 7600 acres. The
surface is diversified by small hills, mostly cultivated,
and by gently sloping valleys, with an extensive plain
on the north, called the Knightland Moss, so level
that, from the want of a proper fall for the water, the
draining of it was long incomplete, though the whole
of the tract is now under the plough or in pasture.
There are several streams, but the only one of conse-
quence is the Bogie, which divides the parish on the
west from the town of Huntly.
The soil presents numerous varieties, of which the
prevailing is a deep rich loam, producing, if well culti-
vated, and favoured by the season, very fine crops. A
large part, however, is stiff and heavy, with a cold
crusty subsoil, which greatly impedes agricultural ope-
rations ; and in some places the soil is light and sharp,
resting upon loose sand or gravel. About 6000 acres
are arable, 1100 unimproved, and 500 planted with
larch and Scotch fir, and a little spruce and beech ; all
kinds of crops are raised, but of the grain, oats most
prevail, wheat being little cultivated in the parish.
The live stock are numerous, and form a principal
object of attention ; they are chiefly the Aberdeenshire
mixed with the Highland breed, but crosses with the
short-horned have of late become common. The best
system of husbandry is practised, and the improvements
by draining, reclaiming waste ground and planting,
have been so considerable within the last thirty years,
that the aspect of the parish has been almost entirely
changed ; the farm-houses and offices, and the inclo-
sures, however, are still in a somewhat inferior condition.
The substrata afford granite, whinstone, and limestone,
the first of which is excellent. The parish contains the
mansion-house of Lessendrum, partly an old and partly
a modern building. Most of the inhabitants are en-
gaged in agricultural pursuits, but a few are employed
in a distillery, a bleachfield, and two potato-flour ma-
nufactories, and in a meal-mill, a lint-mill, and two
wool-mills : at the distillery 40,000 gallons of superior
malt spirits are annually produced, yielding to govern-
ment about £10,000 a year in duty. The Aberdeen and
Inverness great post-road, and the Huntly and Banff
turnpike-road, run through the parish, the one two miles
south, and the other a mile and a half north-west of
the church. The rateable annual value of Drumblade
is £5520. The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the
presbytery of Turriff and synod of Aberdeen; patron,
the Earl of Kintore. The stipend is £159, of which
£51 are paid by the exchequer, and there is a good
manse, with a glebe of ten arable acres, valued at £16
per annum. The church, a plain edifice, was built in
1773, and improved in 1829, and contains 500 sittings.
The members of the Free Church have a place of
worship. The parochial schoolmaster receives £30 a
year, and about £24 fees, with an allowance for a house,
and a portion of the Dick bequest : Latin, mathematics,
mensuration, and all the ordinary branches are taught.
There is also a good parochial library. The Rev. George
Abel, minister of the parish, left £100 in 1793, and his
widow a similar sum several years afterwards, for the
benefit of the poor. Dr. William Bisset, late Bishop
of Raphoe, in Ireland, was proprietor of Lessendrum,
and was interred here in 1834.
DRUMELDRIE-MUIR, a village, in the parish of
Newburn, district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife,
DRUM
DRUM
lq: mile (E.) from Largo ; containing S2 inhabitants.
The name of the parish was anciently Drumeldrie,
changed to Newborn from the circumstance, it is said,
of a small rivulet in the parish having altered its course.
The village is situated about half a mile distant from
the shore of Largo bay, and on the high road from
Largo to Elie : a little to the north-east is the moor.
DRUMGLAY, a village, in the parish of Glammis,
county of Forfar, 2 miles (W.) from Forfar; containing
66 inhabitants. It is situated in the extreme north-
east point of the parish, a short distance from the Dean
river and the loch of Forfar, the former on the south,
and the latter eastward, of the village.
DRUMLANRIG, a village, in the parish of Duris-
deer, county of Dumfries, 3^ miles (N. N. W.) from
Thornhill. This place is distinguished for its magni-
ficent palace of Drumlanrig, the seat of the Duke of
Buccleuch, and formerly that of the dukes of Queens-
berry. It is a large square pile, standing on a rising
ground, and looking down with its almost innumerable
windows on the plain beneath, the river Nith flowing
at a short distance from its walls, which are covered
with a profusion of hearts and stars, and the arms of
Douglas, and crowned by twelve fine turrets. The
palace was built in the 17th century, by the first duke
of Queensberry, from the designs of Inigo Jones, and
its erection occupied ten years : around it are old-
fashioned gardens, which are kept in good order ; and
in its vicinity, a line of yew-trees, overspread by creeping
plants, presents a peculiarly venerable appearance. For-
merly, in one of the parks was preserved a herd of the
original wild cattle of Scotland, animals of a milk-
white, except their noses, ears, and the orbits of their
eyes, these being of a dark brown colour. In the
churchyard of Durisdeer is a curious monument to
"James Lukup, master of the works of Drumlanrig,"
bearing the date 16S5.
DRUMLEMBLE, a village, in the parish of Camp-
beiltown, district of Cantyre, county of Argyll ;
containing 462 inhabitants. It is seated in the imme-
diate vicinity of a large colliery, in which its male
population is for the most part engaged.
DRUMLITHIE, a village, in the parish of Glen-
bervie, county of Kincardine, 6 miles (\V. S. W.) from
Stonehaven ; containing 397 inhabitants. It lies in
the southern part of the parish, a short distance west
of the high road from Stonehaven to Laurencekirk, and
about a mile east-north-east of the church ; the inha-
bitants are principally weavers and shoemakers. There
is a post daily, Wednesdays excepted ; and two stage
coaches pass through the village every day on then-
route between Edinburgh and Aberdeen. Here are an
episcopal chapel, and a place of worship for members of
the Free Church ; and a small school.
DRUMMELZIER, a parish, in the county of Pee-
bles ; containing 228 inhabitants, of whom 63 are
in the village, 2 miles (E.) from Rachan-Mill. This
parish, in ancient documents DrumMar and Drumeler,
anciently formed part of the parish of Tweedsmuir, from
which it was separated in 1643 ; and in 1742 it was
augmented by the annexation of part of the parish of
Dawiek, of which the remainder was added to Stobo.
It appears to have been from a very remote period the
property of the family of Tweedie, of whom Sir James
Tweedie, to whose memory there is an inscription,
293
dated 1617, over the entrance of a cemetery attached
to the church, was the last member. The parish is
about fourteen miles in length, and from three to four
in average breadth, and is bounded on the north for
about eight miles by the river Tweed, which, also, in
the upper portion divides it into two parts. It com-
prises 17,3S6 acres, of which 1030 are arable, 1SQ
meadow and low pasture, 520 woodland and plantations,
and 16,647 hilly moor, affording tolerable pasture for
sheep and cattle. The surface is generally mountainous,
but between the hills and the river are some fine
tracts of level pasture ; the hills are clothed with grass
and heath, and the scenery is enlivened by some
stately timber, and thriving plantations of modern
growth. The soil is sharp, and the principal crops are
oats and barley, with a few acres of wheat, peas, pota-
toes, and turnips ; the system of agriculture is in an
improved state ; the lands are well drained, and inclosed
chiefly with fences of stone. Considerable attention is
paid to the management of the dairy-farms, and to
the rearing and pasture of sheep and cattle ; about 200
milch-cows are kept, and 7000 sheep, chiefly of the
black-faced breed, are fed in the pastures. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £2993.
The woods are oak, chesnut, sycamore, and larch,
and on the older lands are many trees of luxuriant
growth ; the plantations are Scotch fir and larch, in-
termixed with various forest trees. The substrata are
mostly whinstone with veins of quartz, white and very
compact limestone, and slate ; but no quarries have
yet been opened. Dawiek, a seat in the parish lately
rebuilt, is a handsome mansion in the antique style of
architecture, situated in a well-planted demesne, con-
taining a fine collection of pine-trees from the Himalaya
mountains and California. The village, which is irre-
gularly built, is pleasant, and is chiefly inhabited by
persons employed in agriculture. The river Tweed and
its tributaries abound with trout, and salmon are also
found in the former from September till March. The
parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of
Peebles and synod of Lothian and Twecddale, and in
the patronage of the family of Trotter ; the minister's
stipend is £192, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£10 per annum. The church, situated nearly in the
centre of the parish, and at an elevation of S00 feet
above the sea, is an ancient structure in good repair,
and adapted for a congregation of 200 persons. The
parochial school affords instruction to about thirty
children; the master has a salary of £32, with £10
fees, and a house and garden. At Kingledoors, in the
upper part of the parish, was an ancient chapel dedi-
cated to St. Cuthbert, the early evangelist of Tweeddale.
There are remains of two castles : the one called Tinnes
or Thanes Castle, of which there is no authentic record,
was of quadrilateral form, with circular towers at the
angles, and walls of six feet in thickness ; and the
other, called Drummelzier Place, is supposed to have
been the baronial seat of the Tweedie family. On the
summit of one of the mountains, are vestiges of a road
thought, to have been part of the Roman road commu-
nicating with the line from Falkirk to Carlisle. Near
the junction of the Powsail rivulet with the Tweed, is
a spot said to have been the grave of Merlin.
DRUMMETERMONT, a village, in the parish of
Dunnichen, county of Forfar ; containing 117 inha-
DRUM
DRUM
bitants. It is situated in the north-eastern part of the
parish, and nearly adjoins the village of Letham on the
north side. The village is long and straggling, and is
chiefly inhabited by farmers and small weavers.
DRUMMOND, a village, in the parish- of Kiltearn,
county of Ross and Cromarty, 6 miles (N. N. E.) from
Dingwall ; containing 72 inhabitants. This place is
seated in a level field near the Skiack rivulet, on the
road from Dingwall to Novar Inn : the parochial church
stands a short distance from it.
DRUMOAK, a parish, chiefly in the district and
county of Aberdeen, but partly in the" county of Kin-
cardine, 11 miles (VV. S. W.) from Aberdeen; contain-
ing Sll inhabitants. The original name of this place
was Dalmaik, by which it is still generally called by
the inhabitants, though the denomination of Drum-
oak has also been used for more than 300 years ; the
latter appellation is said to be derived from the Gaelic
word drum, signifying the ridge of a hill, and the term
Moloch, corrupted into Moak, the name of a celebrated
saint to whose honour a monastery was erected in St.
Servanus' isle, on the water of Leven. The name of
Dalmaik is compounded of the Gaelic Dal. a haugh or
valley, and St. Moloch, corrrupted into Maik, and signi-
fies the valley of St. Moloch, a description applicable to
the district containing the ruins of the old church, near
which is a well called St. Maik's Well. The parish con-
sists of four estates, Drum, Leys, Park, and Culter, of
which the first comprehends one-half of the whole lands,
and is possessed by the Irvine family, the first of whom,
William de Irvin, was armour-bearer to Robert Bruce,
and was rewarded by him for his zeal and fidelity with
a grant of the forest of Drum, conveyed by charter
under the great seal in 1323. Leys, situated in Kin-
cardineshire, has been held for more than 500 years by
the ancestors of the present proprietor, Sir Thomas
Burnet, Bart. The lands of Park formed part of the
chase attached to the royal forest of Drum, one of the
hunting-seats of the kings of Scotland, and having been
reserved by Robert when he made the grant of the forest,
were given by David Bruce to Walter Moigne, since
which they have passed through different families. The
lands of Culter belonged at an early period to the family
of Drum.
The parish approaches in figure to a triangle, but.
the outline is very irregular ; it measures six miles in
length, and averages two in breadth, comprising 7 190
acres, of which 1797 are in the county of Kincardine.
Of the Aberdeenshire portion 3467 acres are under cul-
tivation, 485 are waste or continual pasture, including
SO capable of improvement, and 1441 are underwood;
of the Kincardineshire portion 798 acres are under cul-
tivation, 793 waste or continual pasture, 300 of the
number being capable of improvement, and 206 are
under wood. The surface is agreeably varied by gentle
undulations, rising from the boundaries on all sides but
the east to the Drum hill in the centre, which is 500
feet above the level of the sea ; in the eastern part the
Ord hill attains an abrupt elevation of 430 feet, its ridge
stretching to the boundary of the parish in that direc-
tion. The most extensive and beautiful prospect in
the neighbourhood is obtained from the southern peak
of Drum hill, comprehending a tract stretching almost
from the German Ocean on the east along the valley of
the river Dee, which forms the southern boundary of
294
the parish, and closed on the south by the Grampian
range, and on the west by lofty mountains often crowned
with snow. The Dee has long been celebrated for its
fine salmon ; the fisheries were once much more profit-
able than at present in this locality, a diminution in the
number of fish having arisen from the stake and bag
nets so thickly planted along the coast, and at the
river's mouth. The loch of Drum, a fine sheet of water
of oblong form, covers nearly eighty-five acres, and is
highly ornamental, its margin being beautifully fringed
with alders, and three of its sides dressed with thriving
plantations of larch, birch, and Scotch fir. Excellent
pike, numerous eels, and a few perch are found in the
loch, and common trout are taken, by angling, in the
burns of Gormac and Culter, which separate this parish
on the north from those of Edit and Peterculter ; these
fish also are all found in the pellucid stream of the Dee,
with par, sea-trout, white trout, and flounders.
The soil, is mostly of inferior quality, and on account
of its general dryness, occasioned partly by a gravelly and
porous subsoil, the farmers have much to contend with.
The lands near the river are light and sandy, and in-
cumbent on gravel, and when penetrated by the heat of
the sun in scorching summers, are dried up ; the parts,
however, which have been the longest under cultivation
and most manured, are rich and loamy, bearing good
crops. In the other portions of the parish the land is
either thin and moorish, resting on till or some retentive
subsoil, or consists of beds of peat, in which are found
many fragments of trees, and from which, though to a
great extent exhausted, fuel is still partly obtained for
the supply of the parish. All kinds of grain are raised,
with turnips, potatoes, and hay. The number of sheep
has been greatly reduced in consequence of the conver-
sion of large tracts of pasture into arable ground ; the
black-cattle are the Aberdeenshire polled breed, variously
mixed, and recently much improved, and many swine
are reared both for domestic use and for the pork-
curers at Aberdeen. The prevailing system of hus-
bandry is the seven-shift course, and large quantities of
bone-dust are applied as manure ; a considerable por-
tion of marshy land has been reclaimed, and embank-
ments have been raised at a great cost on the estate of
Park. The rateable annual value of Drumoak is £2532.
The rocks in the parish are of little interest or value,
and consist chiefly of gneiss and granite, boulders of
which are abundant, and are used for the erection of
fences and farm-steadings. The wood principally com-
prises larch and Scotch fir, intermixed with birch and
other trees ; and very fine specimens of old oak, ash,
plane, and elm adorn the grounds belonging to the
mansion of Drum, a spacious edifice in the Elizabethan
style, built in 1619, with a venerable tower adjoining,
supposed to have been erected in the twelfth century.
The mansion of Park is also a handsome structure, built
in 1S22, in the Grecian style of architecture, and sur-
rounded with extensive and well laid-out grounds. The
turnpike-road from Braemar to Aberdeen passes through
the whole length of the parish. Fairs for the sale of
cattle are held at Park Inn on the first Monday in
January, the first Monday in April, the Monday after
the second Tuesday in May, the second Tuesday in July
(O. S.), and the Tuesday before the 22nd of November;
but they are of recent institution, and badly attended.
The parish is in the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen,
D R Y B
DRYF
and in the patronage of Alexander 'Irvine, Esq. ; the
minister's stipend is £15S, of which upwards of a third
is received from the exchequer, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £22 per annum. The old church, re-
moved in 1S35, is supposed to have stood about 300
years, and was inconveniently situated on a strip of
land stretching into the parish of Peterculter ; the pre-
sent structure, placed on nearly a central spot, is a neat
and comfortable place of worship, raised at an expense
of above £1000, and contains 630 sittings, all free. A
parochial subscription library was instituted in 182",
and contains upwards of 300 volumes. The parochial
school affords instruction in Latin and mathematics, in
addition to the ordinary branches ; the master has a
salary of £30, with about £22 fees, and £10 in meal,
for teaching twelve poor children, left by the family of
Drum. James Gregory, the inventor of the reflecting-
telescope, was a native of the parish.
DRUMOCHY, a village, in the parish of Largo,
district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 2 miles (E.
N. E.) from Leven ; containing 156 inhabitants. This
place is separated from Nether Largo by the mouth of
the Keel rivulet, which forms the harbour, opening into
Largo bay ; the population are chiefly fishermen. The
trade in salt, for which there were formerly many works
here, has altogether disappeared.
DRUMORE, a village, in the parish of Kirkmaiden,
county of Wigton, f of a mile (S. E.) from Kirkmaiden ;
containing 279 inhabitants. This village is seated on
the eastern shore of the peninsula called the Rhinns of
Galloway, and has a good harbour and quay, with safe
anchorage for shipping. Four vessels, of between six-
teen and thirty-seven tons' burthen, belong to the port,
whence farm produce is shipped to various places ; and
in Luce bay some fishing is carried on. There is a
daily post from Stranraer, distant south-south-east about
twenty miles. Above the village are the ruins of Dru-
more Castle, which from its position and magnitude
must have been of great strength and importance.
DRUMS, a hamlet, in the parish of Errol, county
of Perth; containing 73 inhabitants.
DRUMSTURDY-MUIR, a village, in the parish of
Monifieth, county of Forfar, 6f miles (N. E.) from
Dundee ; containing 176 inhabitants. It is situated on
both sides of the old road from Dundee to Arbroath, and
is long and straggling. In its immediate vicinity is the
Hill of Laws, on which are the remains of a fortification,
the stones bearing the marks of vitrification or fusion.
A considerable quantity of gold coins was found a few
years since near this spot.
DRUMVAICH, a hamlet, in the parish of Kilma-
dock with Doune, county of Perth ; containing 49
inhabitants.
DRYBURGH, a village, in the parish of Mertoun,
county of Berwick, I5 mile (W.) from Mertoun. It is
beautifully situated on the river Tweed, which forms the
southern boundary of the parish ; and was formerly a
market-town of some importance, but is now chiefly re-
markable for the much admired remains of its ancient
abbey. So early as the year 522, St. Modan, one of
the first Christian missionaries in Britain, was abbot of
Dryburgh; but from the circumstance of this original
institution being unnoticed by historians subsequently
to this period, it is supposed that the abbot and monks
were shortly afterwards transferred to Melrose, and
295
some centuries elapsed before the formation of a second
establishment here. Hugh de Morville, constable of
Scotland, about the middle of the twelfth century,
with the consent of his wife, Beatrix de Bello Campo,
founded a new abbey, to which David I. granted a
charter of confirmation, and the establishment was after-
wards enriched by numerous benefactions from illus-
trious personages. In 1544, the whole of the town was
burnt down, except the church, by the English army
under Sir George Bowes ; and in the year following, the
monastery was plundered and burnt by the Earl of
Hertford. About the year 1556, David Erskine, a
natural son of Lord Erskine, and one of the sub-pre-
ceptors to James VI., became abbot. That monarch,
however, soon after dissolved the abbey, and bestowed
it as a temporal lordship, under the title of Cardross,
on John, Earl of Mar, lord high treasurer of Scotland,
with the privilege annexed of assigning that title of
peerage, which he conveyed to Henry, his third son,
ancestor of the present Earl of Buchan, by a deed dated
13th of March, ] 617, and confirmed by the king and
parliament. In 1786, the abbey was purchased by the
Earl of Buchan from the heirs of Colonel Tod, who had
bought it from the family of Haliburton, of Newmains.
The remains, though not extensive, are of very consider-
able interest ; they are romantically overgrown with
ivy, and consist chiefly of the chapter-house, north
transept, and St. Modan's chapel : some parts of the
ruins are of very early date, there being vestiges of the
Saxon and Norman styles as well as of the early Eng-
lish. The environs are famed for their delightful scenery,
and are ornamented with various pleasing objects, among
which is a temple erected to the Muses, and surmounted
by a bust of Thomson, the author of The Seasons. A
colossal statue of Sir William Wallace crowns the brow
of an adjoining hill 5 and near the ruins of the abbey is a
remarkably light and elegant bridge for foot passengers
and led horses, consisting of a platform of wood, elevated
eighteen feet above the surface of the water, and fixed
to pillars on each side of the river by chains. Sir Walter
Scott was buried at Dryburgh.
DRYFESDALE, a parish, in the county of Dum-
fries, 14 miles (N. N. W.) from Annan ; containing,
with the town of Lockerbie, 2093 inhabitants. This
parish, which derives its name from the Dryfe, a small
rivulet running through the north-west part of it, con-
tains several memorials of its ancient inhabitants, and
of their domestic feuds or military operations. There
are vestiges of eight camps, some square or Roman,
others circular or British, the most remarkable of which
are two, the one British and the other Roman, facing
each other, and separated by a narrow morass ; they
are on two hills east of the village of Bengali, a term
perhaps implying " the hill of the Gauls." Old pieces of
armour and warlike weapons have frequently been found
in them ; and not many years ago the skeleton of a man
was discovered in a cairn in the morass, with sandals
which, as a great curiosity, were sent to the museum
at Oxford. There is also a Roman work situated upon
an eminence in the centre of the extensive holm of
Dryfe and Annan, and which is called Gallaberry , or the
station of the Gauls. The most perfect relic of this
kind, however, is the British fort at Dryfesdale-gate,
occupying two acres of ground, and the counterpart of
which is a large Roman work, about half a mile due
D R Y F
DKYM
east, separated only by a moor, on which a bloody
battle was fought between the army of Julius Agricola
and the forces of Corbredus Galdus, the Scottish king.
On the holm of Dryfe, half a mile below the for-
mer churchyard, there is still remaining an old thorn-
tree pointing out the place of the celebrated fight on
Dryfe-sands, between the Maxwells of Nithsdale and
the Johnstons of Annandale, on the 7th December,
1593, when the former were defeated with great
slaughter. The highland part of the parish, which is
divided from the lowland by a range of green hills, was
once a parish of itself, called Little Hutton, and the
church and burying-ground were at Hall-dykes ; but
the time of annexation to Dryfesdale is uncertain.
Besides this church there were two other places of pub-
lic worship within the limits of the present parish,
viz., the chapel of Beckton, supposed to have belonged
to the Knights Templars, and the chapel at Quaas,
about a quarter of a mile west from Lockerbie.
The parish is seven miles in its greatest length,
from north to south, and varies in breadth from one to
three and a half miles, comprising 11,000 acres. It is
situated in the middle of the beautiful and extensive
valley called the How of Annandale, and is bounded on
the south and west by the river Annan, which separates
it from the parish of Lochmaben. The surface in the
southern and western parts is tolerably level, but to-
wards the north there are lofty hills, most of which,
once covered with pasture, are now productive of grain,
potatoes, and other crops. The highest and most
beautiful hill, and one from which the prospects are
highly interesting and very extensive, is called sometimes
Quhyte- Woolen, but usually White-Ween, from its
having formerly been the place for the pasturage of very
white sheep ; it rises about 700 feet in height, and
is now covered with waving corn. Beacon-fires are
supposed to have been once lighted on it, to warn the
inhabitants of the approach of the English borderers.
The only river within the parish is the Dryfe, but the
Annan, Corrie, and Milk all touch it on their passage
to the Solway Frith, and are well stocked with various
kinds of fish : in dry weather the Dryfe is a small
rivulet, but. in a rainy season it rolls along with great
impetuosity, overflowing its banks, and spreading deso-
lation among the lands. The whole of the parish is
cultivated, with the exception of (300 acres, 250 of which
are wood, and the others moss and moor; and all kinds
of grain and green crops are grown, the value of which
is very considerable. The chief rock is whinstone or
greywacke, which is very abundant ; some soft freestone
and dark-coloured limestone are also found, and the
latter of them wrought. The rateable annual value of
the parish is returned at £"670. The ecclesiastical
affairs are subject to the presbytery of Lochmaben and
synod of Dumfries ; patron, the Crown. The minister's
stipend is £190, and there is a good manse, delightfully
situated, with a glebe valued at £'25 per annum. The
church, built in 1796, and altered in 1837, stands on a
small eminence on the west side of the main street of
Lockerbie, a little north from the centre of the town ;
it is handsomely fitted up, and seats 900 people. There
is an Antiburgher meeting-house at Lockerbie ; also a
parochial school, in which Latin, Greek, French, prac-
tical geometry, with the usual branches, are taught, and
the master of which has a salary of £34, with a house
296
and garden, and £33 fees. The parish also contains a
parochial subscription library. There are plain traces
of the great Roman road from the borders of England
to the vast encampments on the neighbouring hill of
Burnswark, and thence crossing the parish at Lockerbie
to Dryfesdale-gate, and to Gallaberry, where it divided,
one branch leading through Annandale, by Moffat, to
Tweeddale and Clydesdale, and the other crossing the
Annan, and passing through Nithsdale to the west
country.
DRYMEN, a parish, in the county of Stirling ;
including part of the late quoad sacra district of Buck-
lyvie, and containing 1515 inhabitants, of whom 344
are in the village of Drymen, 55 miles (W. by N.) from
Edinburgh. The name of this place was originally
written Drumen, which is derived from the Celtic
word Druim, signifying a knoll or rise in the ground,
and is strikingly descriptive of the locality, the surface
being marked in many places by such eminences. The
parish is situated in the south-western extremity of the
county, and is very irregular in its outline, but ap-
proaching to a triangular form, and measuring in ex-
treme length fifteen miles, and ten in breadth. It
comprises 32,200 acres of which about 7000 are culti-
vated, 556 under wood, and the remainder hill and
moorland, the last traversed by large numbers of native
sheep and black-cattle,- and consisting principally of
two tracts, one of which, stretching from the east to
the north-west, divides the parish into two parts, and
the other, situated in the southern portion of the parish,
is part of Stockiemuir. The former of these tracts,
near its western extremity, has a lofty ridge separating
this parish from that of Buchanan, and distinguished
by the elevated points of Benvraick, 1600 feet, and
Guallan, about 1300 feet above the level of the sea ;
and a little to the north of it the river Duchray, a tri-
butary of the Forth, forms the boundary of Drymen
for several miles. The lands north of this extensive
mountainous moor are contained within the general
basin of the Forth, and the southern lands within that
of the Clyde. Between the two moors is the picturesque
vale of the Endrick, which comprehends most of the
arable land in the parish, and is remarkable for its
beautiful scenery, heightened by the winding course of
the stream, which, after running for a short distance
through the parish, forms about two miles of its boun-
dary on the south, and then loses itself in Loch
Lomond. On the north-eastern limit of the parish
passes the Forth, winding slowly along, and exhibiting,
in the colour of its water, the effect of the mossy land
through which it flows, and which is a continuous tract
called the Flanders Moss. This moss, commencing here,
and extending to Stirling, a distance of sixteen miles,
is supposed to have been the site of an extensive forest
forming part of the horrida sylva Caledonia cut down
by the Romans to facilitate the conquest of the natives,
who had their strong places in it ; and the remains
of gigantic trees still bear the mark of the axe by which
they were hewn down.
The prevailing soil is poor and shallow, with a cold
impervious subsoil, but in some favoured spots, such as
the vale of the Endrick, there is a fine hazel mould,
inclining to loam ; the land towards the north is light
and sandy, and about the Forth a deep rich clay is
found under the moss. The husbandry practised here
D U B B
D U D D
is of a very mixed character, the old system being still
retained in some parts, in opposition to the rotation of
crops and many great improvements, which have been
introduced into others. The sheep pastured on the
moorlands are chiefly the black-faced, and the cattle
are the native black ; for the improvement of the for-
mer, Linton and Lammermoor rams are sometimes
purchased, and on the farms in the southern and
western parts some fine Leicesters may be seen, and
many good specimens of Ayrshire cattle. The live
stock have been much improved by the encouragement
given by the Strath-Endrick Club, instituted in 1816,
■which meets here annually in August, and of which
the Duke of Montrose is patron. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £10,032. The natural wood,
mostly coppice, covers about ISO acres, and among it
may be noticed some lofty oaks and beeches. There is
a very fine ash at the gate of the churchyard, which is
upwards of 200 years old, and measures in girth six-
teen feet seven inches, at the height of one foot from
the ground ; the vale of Endrick is well wooded, and
the plantations consist of 3*6 acres, belonging princi-
pally to the duke. The mansions are those of Park,
Finnich, and Endrick-Bank. The village is situated a
little north of the Endrick ; its inhabitants are chiefly
engaged in agriculture, but there is a manufactory at
Gartness for weaving woollen goods, where, also, the
preparation of the raw material and the dyeing are
carried on. The turnpike-road from Glasgow and Dum-
barton to Stirling passes through the parish, and to
the first place the produce of the lands is generally
sent. Drymen is ecclesiastically in the presbytery
of Dumbarton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in
the patronage of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is
£272, with a manse, and a glebe of seven acres, valued
at £19 per annum. The church, built in 177 lj and
reseated in 1S10, is a substantial edifice in good repair,
and contains about 400 sittings. The United Asso-
ciate Secession have a place of worship. The parochial
school is about half a mile from the village ; the master
has a salary of £31, with £25 fees. A parish library,
now containing 400 volumes, was instituted in 1S29,
and a savings' bank in the same year. The northern
portion of the parish, called the barony of Drummond,
gives name to the Drummond family, the founder of
which was a Hungarian named Maurice, who came
over with Margaret, queen of Malcolm Canmore, and
obtained lands here, and one of whose descendants,
Anabella, daughter of Sir John Drummond, was united
in marriage to Robert, Earl of Carrick, who succeeded
to the throne as Robert III. In this barony, on the
farm of Garfarran, are the remains of a fort said to
have been erected by the Romans. -Napier, the inventor
of logarithms, resided at Gartness for a considerable
period, during which he prosecuted his mathematical
speculations.
DUBBIESIDE, or Inverleven, a village, in the late
quoad sacra parish of Methill, parish of Markinch,
county of Fife, 6 miles (S. E.) from Markinch ; con-
taining 34S inhabitants. This village is pleasantly situ-
ated on the western bank of the river Leven, near its
influx into the Frith of Forth, and is neatly and regularly
built, consisting of one principal street intersected at
right angles by two smaller streets. The inhabitants
are generally employed at their own houses in weaving
Vol. I.— 297
sheetings, dowlas, and towellings, for the manufacturers
in the neighbouring districts ; the surrounding scenery
is of pleasing character, and the village is connected with
the town of Leven, on the opposite shore, by a hand-
some suspension-bridge across the river. It contains a
Secession meeting-house.
DUDDINGSTON, a parish, in the county of Edin-
burgh ; including the villages of Joppa and Easter
and Wester Duddingston, and also the late quoad sacra
parish of Portobello ; and containing 4366 inhabitants,
of whom 156 are in Easter, and 200 in Wester, Dudding-
ston, the former 3| miles (E. by S), and the latter l£
mile (E. S. E.), from Edinburgh. This place derived its
name, anciently Dodinestun, from the family of Dodin,
to whom it belonged in the reign of David I., and of
whom Iliigo.Jilius Dodini de Dodinestun, appears as witness
to a grant of lands to the canons of Holyrood. The
manor was subsequently the property of the Thompson
family, of whom Sir Thomas w-as created a baronet by
Charles I. in 1637. It afterwards formed part of the
possessions of the Duke of Lauderdale, who gave it,
with his daughter in marriage, to the first duke of
Argyll, from whose successor, the fifth duke, it was pur-
chased in 1745 by the Earl of Abercorn, whose descend-
ant, the Marquess of Abercorn, is the present proprietor.
The site on which the town of Portobello has been built,
formerly that portion of the forest of Duddingston
called the Figget Whins, afforded shelter to Sir William
W'allace and his troops on their march to attack the
town of Berwick ; and during the parliamentary war,
the Scottish leaders held a conference with the usurper
Cromwell within this parish, previously to the battle of
Dunbar. In 1745, the forces of the Pretender lay en-
camped on a plain near the village of Wester Dudding-
ston, now within the demesnes of Duddingston House,
for nearly a month before and after their defeat of General
Cope, at Preston ; and the house in which Prince Charles
Edward slept on the night previous to the battle is still
remaining.
The parish is bounded on the west and north-west by
the parishes of St. Cuthbert, the Canongate, and South
Lcith ; on the north-east by the Frith of Forth ; and on
the south by the parishes of Inveresk and Libberton.
It extends from the eastern base of Arthur's seat to the
Frith, for nearly four miles in length, and increases
gradually towards the east from less than one mile to
about two miles in breadth, comprising 1S12 acres, of
which, with the exception of a few acres of woodland
and pasture, the whole is arable. The surface is gene-
rally a level plain, sloping gradually from the base of
Arthur's seat to the Frith. The streams of the Powburn
and the Braid intersect the parish, flowing through the
pleasure-grounds of Duddingston House to the hamlet,
of Duddingston-Mills, whence, pursuing their course
through a narrow and romantic dell, they fall into the
Frith to the west of Portobello. There is also a stream
called Brunstane, which separates the parish from Libber-
ton, and joins the Frith near Magdalene Bridge. Dud-
dingston loch, a fine sheet of water about a mile in cir-
cumference, at the base of Arthur's seat, adds much to
the beauty of the scenery, and, by means of a small
canal, supplies the rivulets which flow through the park.
The greater portion of the parish was for a long time a
barren moor, overgrown with furze, and partly covered
with sand. From this unprofitable state, the lands of
2 Q,
DUDD
DUFF
Prestonfield were first recovered and brought into culti-
vation by their proprietor Mr. Dick, at that time lord
provost of Edinburgh, who, removing at his own ex-
pense the accumulated refuse of the streets of the city,
employed it as manure for the improvement of his
land ; and not long afterwards, the whole of the moor-
lands in the parish were reclaimed, and brought into
profitable cultivation.
The soil is generally clay, alternated with sand, and
from judicious management has been rendered extremely
fertile ; the arable lands produce abundant crops of all
kinds of grain, turnips, and potatoes, and the grass in
the parks is luxuriantly rich. The system of agriculture
is in the highest state of advancement, and all the more
recent improvements in husbandry, and in the construc-
tion of implements, have been fully adopted. One or
two cows of the Ayrshire or Teeswater breed are kept on
each farm for the use of the family ; but scarcely any
live stock is reared in the parish. The rateable annual
value of Duddingston is £21,896. The principal sub-
strata are, coal, sandstone, and freestone. The coal,
which is very abundant, was formerly wrought, but, from
the difficulty of clearing the mines from water, the
working has been discontinued ; the mines, however,
have been lately leased to an English gentleman, who
has erected a powerful steam-engine, and there is every
prospect of their being wrought with success. There
are some extensive quarries of good freestone, from
which materials have been raised for the erection of the
houses of Portobello and Joppa ; and in the bed of one
of the burns is a stratum of black-coloured stone, of
smooth and unctuous appearance, which, from its sus-
ceptibility of a high polish, is well adapted for mantel-
pieces and other ornamental purposes. Strata of lime-
stone and ironstone have been also found on some of the
lands. Duddingston House, the seat of the Marquess of
Abercorn, is a spacious and elegant mansion in the
Grecian style, erected in 1768, after a design by Sir
William Chambers, at an expense of £30,000. It is
heautifully situated in an extensive park abounding with
stately timber, and surrounded with pleasure-grounds
tastefully laid out in lawns, shrubberies, and walks, in
which are some temples and other ornamental buildings,
and enlivened by the windings of the rivulets, in which
are artificial islands of picturesque appearance. Preston-
field House, the seat of Sir Robert Dick, Bart., is a hand-
some mansion situated near the loch, in an ample
demesne tastefully laid out, and enriched with planta-
tions; it commands a fine view of the city of Edinburgh,
to the southern confines of which the park nearly
extends.
The village of Wester Duddingston, where the parish
church is situated, was formerly a large and populous
place, of which the inhabitants were chiefly employed in
weaving. It is at present a small but pleasant village,
and consists mostly of detached villas, surrounded with
gardens and pleasure-grounds, occupied as summer re-
sidences by families of Edinburgh, and some neat cot-
tages inhabited by persons engaged in the various works
carried on in the vicinity. Many of the females are em-
ployed in washing linen, for which the situation of the
village near the loch and its convenience for bleaching
render it peculiarly adapted. The vicinity abounds with
beautiful scenery, and commands extensive and interest-
ing prospects, embracing Cra;g-Millar Castle, the Moor-
298
foot, Lammermoor, and Pentland hills, with the city of
Edinburgh, and the Frith of Forth in the distance. The
village of Easter Duddingston is situated on an eminence
near the sea ; it consists only of small cottages inhabited
chiefly by labourers, and is apparently falling into decay.
The hamlet of Duddingston-Mills, near the junction of the
Duddingston and Portobello roads, has a pleasingly
rural aspect. Extensive mills for flour and barley were
erected here a few years since, at an expense of £6000 ;
they are driven by water and by steam, according to cir-
cumstances, and contain machinery of the most im-
proved construction. In this hamlet are also situated
the parochial school, and the handsome buildings of
Cauvin's Hospital. Facility of communication is afforded
by excellent roads ; a post-office has recently been
established at Wester Duddingston, and the Edinburgh
and Dalkeith railway, from which a branch diverges to
Leith, passes through the parish.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale and
presbytery of Edinburgh. The minister's stipend, in-
cluding £10 for communion elements, is £300, with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum; patron,
the Marquess of Abercorn. The church is a very
ancient structure in the Norman style, of which it con-
tains some interesting details, particularly a fine arch
separating the chancel from the nave; in 1631, an
aisle was added by the presbytery for the Hamilton
family and their tenants. It was enlarged and repaired
in 1840, and now contains 400 sittings. In the church-
yard are some handsome monuments, and an obelisk of
marble to the memory of Patrick Haldane, Esq., of
Gleneagles. There are places of worship for members
of the United Associate Secession, the Relief Congrega-
tion, and Independents, and an episcopal and a Roman
Catholic chapel. The parochial school is attended by
about ninety children ; the master has a salary of £34,
with a house and garden, and the fees average £40.
There is also a subscription library in Wester Dudding-
ston, containing about 400 volumes. Cauvin's Hospital
was founded by Mr. Louis Cauvin, a French teacher in
Edinburgh, and afterwards a farmer in this parish, who
in 1825 bequeathed the greater portion of his estates to
the lord provost, the principal of the university, the
rector of the high school, and the ministers of Dud-
dingston, Libberton, and Newton, in trust for the erec-
tion and endowment of an hospital for the maintenance
and education of the sons of poor teachers, farmers,
printers, or booksellers, of not less than six, nor more
than eight, years of age. The buildings were erected in
the villa style, in 1S33, and contain the requisite accom-
modations for twenty-five boys, who are maintained in
the hospital for six'years, and instructed in the French,
Latin, and Greek languages, the mathematics, and the
ordinary branches of a commercial education, by mas-
ters appointed by the trustees, who were incorporated
by charter in 1837. The poor have the proceeds of a
bequest of £100 by Mr. Kay, of Edinburgh, architect.
DUFFTOWN, a village, in the parish of Mortlach,
county of Banff, | a mile (N.) from Mortlach ; con-
taining 770 inhabitants. This village, which is situated
a short distance from the junction of the rivers Fiddich
and Dullan, is of recent growth, having arisen since the
year 1817, when the first of its present buildings was
commenced. A kind of market for grain is held here,
DUFF
D U III
which is occasionally resorted to by the dealers in the
neighbourhood, but not on any particular day ; and fairs
for the sale of cattle are held five times during the year.
There is also a daily post ; and a small prison has been
recently built in the village, for the temporary confine-
ment of delinquents previously to their committal.
DUFFUS, a parish, in the county of Elgin ; in-
cluding the villages of Burgh-Head, Cummingston, Hope-
man, and the hamlets of Roseisle, College of Roseisle,
and Old Roseisle ; and containing 2529 inhabitants, of
whom 159 are in the village of New Duffus, 5 miles
(W. N. W.) from Elgin. The name of Duffus is supposed
to be derived from the Gaelic word Dubuist, signifying
the black lake, in reference to the lake of Spynie, now
drained, or to some other lake of which there is no trace
left. The parish was formerly remarkable for its castle,
and as the scene of military operations ; and there are se-
veral monuments of antiquity still remaining, with which
its ancient history is closely interwoven. The most in-
teresting relics are those of fortifications at Burgh-Head,
by some thought to be Roman, and by others considered
as Danish, but most probably originally constructed by the
Romans, and afterwards occupied by the Danes. The
works were divided into two parts, a higher and a lower,
and presented four strong ramparts, built with oaken
logs, directed towards the small isthmus upon which
the village of Burgh- Head now stands. A few years
ago an obelisk was standing nearly in the centre of the
parish, thought to have been erected by Malcolm II. , in
memory of a victory over the Danes under Camus ; and
not far from it there was once a village called Kaim, sup-
posed to be the same as that mentioned by the historian
Buchanan as retaining the memorable name of Camus.
The village is now removed, but the place nevertheless
retains the appellation of Kaim. The castle of Duffus,
of which the picturesque ruins are still visible, was the
ancient seat of the lords of that name, a branch of the
noble family of Sutherland, and who yet bear the title,
recently restored from attainder, though they now pos-
sess no property in the district.
The parish is nearly six miles long and three broad,
containing 10,000 acres, and lies along the Moray
Frith, by which it is bounded on the north, The coast
at the east end is rocky and very bold, and contains
some large and remarkable caverns; in the western part,
however, it consists of a level sandy beach. Along the
shore, and for half a mile inland, the surface is mostly
meagre pasture, but very generally supposed to have been
once richly-cultivated land, and" to have been reduced
to its present condition by the blowing of sand from the
western beach. The remaining part of the parish, with
the exception of two slight acclivities, is a continuous
plain of good ground in a high state of tillage. The soil
in the western district is a black fertile earth, in some
places mixed with sand ; in the eastern quarter it is a
deep rich clay, similar in many respects to the fine soil
in the well-known Carse of Gowrie. The number of
arable acres is 53S1, in pasture 2962, and 310 are under
wood ; grain is produced to a considerable extent, and
greatly predominates in amount over the green crops,
the annual value of the former being four times that of
the latter. The cattle are mostly the Morayshire breed,
which is very similar to the Highland, but more bulky.
The best method of cultivation prevails, and many im-
provements in every department of husbandry have taken
299
place, especially in the breed of cattle ; the farm-buildings
are generally thatched with straw, but substantial, and
of suitable extent. The rocks consist of sandstone and
limestone, of each of which there are quarries. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £7902. Among the
chief residences is Duffus House, a commodious and
handsome mansion in the old English manorial style.
The village of Duffus is regularly built, and is a neat,
clean, and interesting place ; the chief communication of
the people is with the town of Elgin, to which there is a
good turnpike-road, and a light post curricle brings the
mail. There are three fisheries carried on, namely a
salmon, herring, and white fishery, which generally prove
very profitable. The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish
are subject to the superintendence of the presbytery
of Elgin and synod of Moray ; patron, Sir Archibald
Dunbar, of Northfield, Bart. The minister's stipend is
£232, with a manse, built in 1830, and a glebe of the
annual value of £1S. The church, situated at some dis-
tance from the population, at the eastern extremity of
the parish, is an old and ill-constructed edifice, and of
unsightly appearance, but with a very picturesque and
ancient porch : it was repaired in the year 17S2, and is
in good condition. There is a chapel of ease at Burgh-
Head, where are also two Secession meeting-houses ; and
near Kaim is an episcopal chapel. A parochial school
is supported, in which the classics and mathematics are
taught, with the usual branches of education; the master
has a salary of £36, a portion of Dick's bequest, about
£12 fees, and a house and garden.
DUIRINISH, a parish, in the Isle of Skye, county
of Inverness; containing, with the late quoad sacra
parish of Waternish, 49S3 inhabitants. This place,
early in the tenth century, became the property of the
Me Leods, by marriage of the first of the Norman fa-
mily of that name with the daughter and heiress of
Mc Railt, the original possessor of the lands. Frequent
feuds between the Mc Leods and the Mc Donalds of
Uist, in which the latter made many attempts to render
themselves masters of the property, subsisted for a long
period ; but, with the exception of certain portions of
land voluntarily alienated by the Mc Leods, the whole
is still in the possession of their descendants. While
a number of the Mc Leods were met for public worship
in the church, a party of the Mc Donalds, having landed
at Ardmore, in the district of Waternish, set fire to the
building ; and, except one individual, the whole assem-
bly perished in the flames. The inhabitants, however,
whom the burning of the church had collected in great
numbers, amply retaliated this barbarous outrage, and,
attacking the invaders before they could regain their
ships, stripped them of their booty, and left the entire
party dead upon the shore.
The parish is bounded on the north and north-east
by Lochs Snizort and Grieshernish, on the south and
south-east by Lochs Bracadale and Carroy, and on the
west by the channel of the Minch. It is about nine-
teen miles in extreme length, and nearly sixteen miles
in extreme breadth, comprising more than 50,000 Scotch
acres, of which 1900 are arable, 3000 meadow and
pasture, 100 woodland and plantations, and the remain-
der waste. The surface is boldly varied, rising in some
parts into hills of considerable height, and in others into
mountains, whereof the most conspicuous are the Greater
and Less Helvels, which have an elevation of 1700 feet
2 0.2
DUIR
DULL
above the level of the sea, and are clothed with verdure
to their summits, which form a level plain. On ac-
count of their near resemblance in shape, they con-
stitute an infallible landmark to mariners, by whom
they are called Mc Leod's Tables. From the larger of
the two mountains a range of hills extends northward,
terminating in Galtrigil Head, at the entrance of the
bay of Dunvegan, a bold and precipitous headland
300 feet in height; and from the smaller of the Hel-
vels a similar chain of hills stretches to the south, ter-
minating in the cliffs of Idrigil and Waterstein, of which
the former have an elevation of 400, and the latter of
600 feet. Near the point of Idrigil are three basaltic
pillars, rising perpendicularly from the sea, of which
one is 200 feet in height, and the two others 100 feet
each ; they have obtained the appellation of Mc Leod's
Maidens, and there was formerly a fourth pillar, which
has disappeared. The coast, from its numerous inden-
tations, has a range of more than seventy miles in ex-
tent, and is generally precipitous and rocky ; but
within the many bays and lochs the shore has a mo-
derate declivity, forming commodious beaches for land-
ing. The lochs of Dunvegan and Grieshernish are safe
roadsteads for large vessels during all winds ; and
Lochs Bay, Poltiel, and Carroy, though more exposed,
afford good anchorages for ships in ordinary weather.
Pol-Roag, a branch of Loch Carroy, is also a secure
shelter, but from the narrowness of its entrance is ac-
cessible only to vessels of small burthen.
The soil is various, generally peat-moss, with some
tracts of clay and gravel ; the chief crops are oats and
potatoes. The system of agriculture, on the larger
farms, has been improved within the last few years ;
the farm-houses are mostly commodious, and the fences
well kept up, but on the smaller tenements, which are
held by cottars without leases, the plan of husbandry is
still in a very backward state. The black-cattle for-
merly pastured on the farms have been nearly super-
seded by sheep of the native Highland breed, of dimi-
nutive size, but of very delicate flavour, and remarkable
for the fine texture of their fleeces : within the last
forty years the black-faced breed have been introduced,
but are now giving place to those of the Cheviot breed.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £4999. The
plantations are of modern date, and are mainly confined
to the grounds of the principal landowners ; they con-
sist of oak, ash, plane, beech, alder, birch, and larch,
and Scotch firs, which last, however, have not succeeded.
The substrata are chiefly of the trapstone formation,
intersected with veins of basalt ; limestone, containing
numerous fossil shells ; coal, which is not workable ;
and veins of sandstone. The principal mansions in the
parish are, Orbost, Grieshernish, and Waternish, all
handsome residences pleasantly situated. Considerable
quantities of shell-fish are taken on the beach, and
several persons are employed in the fisheries off the
coast ; the fish generally are cod and ling, which, after
being cured, are sent to the markets. The manufacture
ot kelp is also carried on, to a moderate extent. About
three boats, averaging ten tons' burthen each, belong to
the parish ; but no other vessels visit it for the purpose
of trade. A post-office has been established at Dun-
vegan ; and facility of communication is maintained by
good roads, about thirty-five miles of turnpike-road
passing through the parish.
300
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Skye and synod of
Glenelg. The minister's stipend is £158, of which one-
third part is paid from the exchequer, with an allow-
ance of £57 in lieu of a manse, and a glebe valued at
£'22. 10. per annum; patron, Me Leod of Mc Leod. The
church, erected in 1824, is a substantial and handsome
structure in the centre of the parish, and contains 550
sittings, all of which are free. An extension church,
containing 330 seats, has been built in the district of
Arnizort, about twelve miles from the parish church ;
and there is a similar church on the west side of
the loch of Dunvegan. The parochial school is ill
conducted ; the master has a salary of £30, with a
house and garden, and the fees average about £8. Four
schools are supported by the General Assembly, and
three by the Gaelic Society. Among the antiquities
is the castle of Dunvegan, the ancient baronial resi-
dence of the Mc Leods, of which the oldest portion was
erected in the ninth century ; a portion was added to
it in the thirteenth, and the two parts, consisting of
lofty towers, were connected by a range of low building,
erected by Rory Mor in the reign of James VI. The
whole is situated on the summit of a lofty rock, rising
precipitously from the sea, and an easier line of approach
has lately been opened, by throwing a bridge across the
chasm, which separates it from a neighbouring rock.
In this castle are preserved, the celebrated banner
called the "Fairy flag," taken by the Mc Leods from
the Saracens during the crusades ; an ancient drinking-
cup of hard dark wood, supported on four silver feet,
and striped with ribs of highly-wrought silver set with
precious stones, of which some are still remaining ; and
Rory Mor's horn, a drinking-cup of much larger dimen-
sions, containing five English pints, and noticed by
Sir Walter Scott. There are numerous caverns in the
rocks along the coast, one of which is 120 feet in
length, forty feet in height, and ten feet wide ; and the
cave of Idrigil is resorted to by the fishermen for dry-
ing their nets, curing fish, and dressing their victuals.
The parish likewise contains many barrows, circular
forts, and subterraneous dwellings, in one of which,
on the farm of Vatten, a long narrow passage leads
into a central room arched with stone, from which
branch off several galleries conducting to other apart-
ments, which have not been explored. Some rude
sepulchral urns of reddish clay have been dug up ;
one of these is in the possession of Mc Leod of Mc
Leod, and another has been deposited in the Glasgow
Hunterian Museum.
DULL, a parish, in the county of Perth, 4 miles
(W. by N.) from Aberfeldy ; containing, with parts of
the late quoad sacra parishes of Foss and Tenandry,
and part of the village of Aberfeldy, 3811 inhabitants,
of whom 145 are in the village of Dull. This place, of
which the name is descriptive of a plain, appears to
have been celebrated for a monastery founded here at a
very early period, and which formed one of the only
three Abthaneries existing in the kingdom. These pecu-
liar establishments, of which the superior had the title
of Abthane, were at Dull, Kirkmichael, and Madderty;
and Edgar, King of Scotland, conferred all of them
upon his younger brother, Ethelred, then abbot of Dun-
keld, whose successor, Hugh, granted the monastery
of Dull to the priory of St. Andrew's. The parish,
DULL
DULL
which comprises the districts of Appin, Grandtully,
Amulrie, Foss, and Fincastle, is about thirty miles in
length, but, from its intersection by other parishes, is
of very irregular form, varying from four to twelve
miles in breadth, and comprising about 135,000 acres,
of which 19,000 are arable, pasture, and meadow, 3000
woodland and plantations, and the remainder moor and
waste. The surface is divided, throughout its whole
length by several parallel ranges of hills, forming part
of the Grampians, and gradually diminishing in height
towards the north-east, and between which are the beau-
tiful vales of Glenquaieh, Appin, Foss, and Fincastle.
Of these ranges the highest is the central range, divid-
ing the vale of Appin from that of Foss, and containing
a portion of the mountain Schiehallion, which has an
elevation of 356-t feet, and is partly in the parish of
Fortingal, and the hill of Farragon, which is wholly in
this parish, and is 2535 feet above the level of the sea.
In this range is the Craig of Dull, a lofty rock, com-
manding from its summit an extensive and diversified
prospect, embracing the richly-cultivated vales of Appin
and Fortingal, Loch Tay, the bridge of Kenmore, the
noble mansion and wooded grounds of Taymouth, and
a great variety of picturesque Highland scenery.
The principal river is the Tay, which, after flowing
through the grounds of Taymouth, in the parish of
Kenmore, enters this parish, and, pursuing its course
along the vale of Appin, which it sometimes partially
inundates, runs north of the village of Aberfeldy into
the parish of Logierait. The river Lyon, which has its
source in Loch Lyon, in the parish of Fortingal, enters
this parish at Coshieville, and, taking a south-easterly
direction, separates Dull from Weera, and flows into
the Tay at the eastern base of the hill of Drummond.
The Quakh, rising among the hills in Kenmore, expands,
after a course of nearly eight miles, into the Loch
Fraochy, in the valley of Glenquaieh, on the southern
border of the parish. The river Tummel, issuing from
Loch Rannoch, flows in an easterly course into Loch
Tummel, forming the northern boundary of the pa-
rish ; and the Garry, which has its source in Loch
Garry, in the parish of Blair-Atholl, intersects the
north-eastern portion of the lands. These rivers form
several interesting and highly picturesque cascades,
of which the chief are the falls of Keltnie, Camserney,
Tummel, and Moness ; and in the Lyon and Tummel
are found pearl-muscles, some containing pearls of
large size and of brilliant lustre. There are likewise
numerous lakes in the parish, of which one of the prin-
cipal is Loch Tummel, described under the head of Blair-
Atholl, on the boundary of which it is situated. Loch
Fraochy is about two and a half miles in length, and half
a mile in breadth ; on the south bank is a shooting-
seat, the property of the Marquess of Breadalbane, the
demesne attached to which is embellished with planta-
tions. Trout of small size, but of excellent flavour,
afford sport to the angler, for whose accommodation
there is an excellent inn about half a mile distant. Loch
Ceannard, situated in the hills of Grandtully, is nearly
a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile wide, and is
surrounded with bleak and barren mountains. Nearly
in its centre is a small islet, on which are the ruins of
an ancient shooting-lodge, almost surrounded with
plantations of larch, affording shelter to flocks of black-
game ; and on the north bank of the loch is a neat
301
modern villa in the cottage style. There are many small
lakes in the immediate vicinity, all of which abound
with trout, pike, and perch.
The soil in several parts is a rich loam alternated with
clay, and in others light and gravelly ; in some of the
districts is found a thin brownish loam mixed with sand,
and in others a wet moss. The chief crops arc, oats,
barley, potatoes, and turnips ; the system of husbandry
in the vale of Appin is in a highly advanced state, and
elsewhere has been much improved under the auspices
of the Highland Society. Great attention is paid to
the improvement of live stock, and to dairy-farming.
The cattle, of which about 5000 are reared, are generally
of the West Highland breed, with a few of the Ayrshire
on the dairy-farms ; and the sheep, of which more than
1S,000 are fed, are of the black-faced breed, with some
of the Cheviot and Leicestershire on the lower grounds.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £11,649.
There are considerable remains of natural wood, con-
sisting of birch, interspersed with oak, ash, hazel, willow,
alder, and mountain-ash ; and very extensive planta-
tions of beech, ash, plane, elm, oak, Scotch and spruce
firs, and larch, which last is predominant, are under
careful management, and in a thriving state. The rocks
are chiefly of mica-slate, intermixed with quartz,
granite, and hornblende ; and the principal substrata
are whinstone and limestone, the former used for the
roads, and the latter, of which a quarry has been opened
at Tomphobuil, for manure. An attempt for the dis-
covery of coal has been made, but without success.
Grandtully Castle, the baronial seat for many gene-
rations of a branch of the ancient Stewart family, and
now the residence of Sir William D. Stewart, Bart., is
a venerable turreted mansion on the south bank of the
river Tay; and Cluny, Derculich, Foss, and Moness,
are all handsome houses, finely situated. In the village
of Aberfeldy the woollen manufacture is carried on to a
moderate extent, there being a dye-mill, with machinery
for carding and spinning ; and at the hamlet of Cam-
serney, a carpet manufactory was established by Sir
Niel Menzies, Bart., which affords employment to about
thirty persons. There are likewise a saw-mill and a
wheelwright's establishment, in which latter bobbins are
also made, for the Dundee market. Fairs are held at
Aberfeldy, for cattle, sheep, and horses, on the first
Thursday in January, the Tuesday before Kenmore fair
in March, the last Thursday in May, the last Friday
in July, the last Thursday in October, and the first
Thursday in November (all O. S.). Fairs for cattle and
sheep are also held at Amulrie, on the first Tuesday
and Wednesday in May and the Friday before the first
Wednesday in November ; at Coshieville on the last
Thursday in October and the day before Fortingal
fair in December; at Tummel-Bridge on the last Friday
in October; and at Foss on the first Tuesday in March,
for horses and general business. A sheriff's court for
small debts, which has jurisdiction also over the parishes
of Kenmore, Killin, Fortingal, Weem, and part of the
parishes of Logierait and Little Dunkeld, is held quar-
terly at Aberfeldy, and has nearly superseded the
justice-of-peace courts at Weem, within which dis-
trict Dull is comprehended. There is a post-office at
Aberfeldy, and a branch office has been opened at
Amulrie ; facility of communication is maintained by
good turnpike-roads.
DUMB
DUMB
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Weem and synod of Perth
and Stirling. The minister's stipend is £257. 18., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £40 per annum ; patron,
the Crown. The church, situated in the village of Dull,
is an ancient structure, repaired and reseated in 1840,
and contains 600 sittings, all free. A church to which
a quoad sacra district was for a short time assigned, has
been erected at Foss by parliamentary grant. There
are also chapels in connexion with the Established
Church at Amulrie and Grandtully, under the patronage
of the General Assembly, The minister of the former
has a stipend of £65, wholly from the Royal Bounty,
and the minister of the latter has £90, of which £40
are paid by Sir William D. Stewart, and the remainder
from the Royal Bounty ; each minister has also a manse,
and about five acres of arable land rent free from the
proprietors. At' Tummel Bridge is an episcopal chapel.
The parochial school is well attended ; the master has
a salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees
average £14. Of the monastery no vestiges remain,
with the exception of a heap of shapeless rubbish near
the village of Dull, supposed to be the ruins of the
abbey church. The ancient cross, around which was
a sanctuary, whose limits were marked out by three
crosses of similar form, but recently removed, is still
remaining ; and there are numerous barrows and tumuli,
of which one, at the bridge of Keltnie, now covered
with plantations, has every appearance of an artificial
intrenchment, and is supposed to have been the site of
a battle between the Fingalians and Picts. In 1S36,
on removing a large barrow of stones between the inn
at Coshieville and the river Lyon, Mr. Menzies disco-
vered about twelve stone coffins, rudely formed of slabs,
in some of which were found urns containing ashes, and
in others ashes and human bones only. In the lands
of Croftmoraig are the remains of a Druidical circle,
nearly complete ; and in the vale of Appin are several
upright stones, of which some are in groups, and others
standing alone.
DUMBARNEY, county of Perth. — See Dunbarny.
DUMBARTON, a royal
burgh, the county town,
and a parish, in the county
of Dumbarton, 15 miles
(N. W.) from Glasgow, and
58 (\V. by S.) from Edin-
burgh ; containing 3828 in-
habitants, of whom 37S2 are
in the burgh. This place
derives its name, originally
Dunhriton, from an ancient
fortress which, though its
founders are unknown, be-
came the principal seat of the Strathclyde Britons, who
at a very remote period established themselves in this
part of the kingdom. The Romans, however, during
their invasions of Britain, made themselves masters of
this fortress and of the territories adjacent ; and there
are still some vestiges remaining of a lighthouse they
erected on the western peak of the rock on which the
castle is built, for the accommodation of their galleys
stationed in the Clyde, which flows round its base.
After the departure of the Romans, the Britons of
Strathclyde quickly repossessed themselves of their
302
Bursh Seal.
previous settlements, which they maintained against
all the assaults of the Picts and Scots for nearly a hun-
dred years, till they were finally expelled in 756 by
Egbert, king of Northumbria. Some historians identify
the place, while in the hands of the Britons, with
Alcluyd, supposed to have been the Balclutha celebrated
in the poems of Ossian ; but this rests upon very
doubtful authority.
The castle was made a royal fortress at a very early
date, and the town which had arisen under its protec-
tion was, in 1222, erected into a royal burgh by Alex-
ander II., who, in 1238, granted a charter to the Earl
of Lennox, confirming to him the earldom and its pos-
sessions, with the exception of the castle and some
lands adjoining. During the disputed succession to the
Scottish throne on the death of Alexander III., the
castle, which, with many others, had been surrendered
to the custody of Edward I. of England, was, in 1298,
delivered by that monarch to John Baliol, whom he
declared to be the rightful heir to the crown. After
various captures and recaptures, the castle again fell
into the hands of Edward, who, in 1305, placed it under
the government of Sir John Monteith, during whose
occupation the heroic Wallace, being treacherously made
prisoner, was delivered into the power of his inveterate
enemy, and sent to England for trial. The castle was
taken by Robert the Bruce in 1300 ; and during the
siege of Dumbarton by the English fleet in 14S1, it was
bravely defended by its governor, Andrew Wood, to
whom, for his services on that occasion, James III.
granted the lands of Largo, in the county of Fi fe. In
the beginning of the reign of James IF., the castle had
been placed under the custody of the Earl of Lennox,
on whose attainder for rebellion his estates and title
became forfeited to the crown, and the castle was be-
sieged by the Earl of Argyll, chancellor of Scotland ;
but its strength resisted all his efforts, and it was not
till after a protracted siege by a numerous force, headed
by the king in person, that the garrison surrendered.
After the disastrous battle of Pinkie in 1547, Mary, the
young Queen of Scots, was conveyed for safety to the
castle of Dumbarton, where she remained till her em-
barkation for France ; and after her return, she visited
the town while on an excursion into Argyllshire. During
the hostilities consequent on the deposition of the
queen, the castle was held for her by Lord Fleming
for a considerable time; but in 1571 it was surprised
and taken for the regent by Captain Crawford, who,
having learned by bribery the easiest mode of access,
succeeded by scaling the walls, and Hamilton, Arch-
bishop of St. Andrew's, was made prisoner, and after-
wards hanged at Stirling.
At the commencement of the war in the reign of
Charles I., the castle, which was garrisoned by the
royalists, was taken by the parliamentarians in 1639,
but was soon recovered by the king's forces ; it again,
however, fell into the hands of the republicans, and the
Scottish parliament ordered the fortifications to be
destroyed. This order, however, was not carried into
effect, and in 1652 it was garrisoned by Oliver Cromwell ;
and at the time of the union of the two kingdoms, the
ancient castle was one of the forts ordered to be kept
in repair. The present garrison consists of a governor,
lieutenant-governor, barrack-master, store-keeper, and
surgeon, with thirty rank and file, and twelve artillery
DUMB
DUMB
of the royal corps. The buildings are situated on a
stupendous rock rising precipitously from the Clyde to
a height of 350 feet, and dividing into two conical peaks
of nearly equal elevation. The entrance, which is far
below the point where the rock divides, is defended by
a rampart containing the guard-house and apartments
for the officers, whence a long flight of steps leads to
the interval between the summits. Here are the bar-
racks for the garrison, a battery, and a well of excellent
water, behind which is the governor's house. Above
these, on the lower summit of the rock, are several
batteries, strongly mounted, and commanding an exten-
sive range of the Clyde, and at high-water the rock is
very nearly insulated by the river Leven. The higher
summit of the rock, to which the ascent is precipitously
steep, still retains the name of Wallace's Seat, and that
portion of the castle in which he was confined is called
Wallace's Tower. Among other relics of antiquity is
a large two-handed sword, said to have belonged to
that hero.
The town is situated on the west bank of the river
Leven, near its influx into the Clyde, and consists
principally of one street in the form of a crescent, from
which several smaller streets diverge. It is connected
with a suburb on the west side of the Leven by a hand-
some stone bridge of five arches, nearly 300 feet in
length. The houses are well built ; the streets are
paved, and lighted with gas, and the inhabitants are
amply supplied with water. There is a public subscrip-
tion library, with a collection of more than 2000
volumes, and two reading and news rooms are sup-
ported by subscription. The chief manufacture is that
of glass, which was formerly carried on to a very great
extent, paying at one time duties to government amount-
ing to £119,000 per annum; it is still very consider-
able, and the principal articles are crown and bottle
glass. There are tanneries, rope-walks, and brick and
tile works, and various handicraft trades are pursued,
for the supply of the neighbourhood ; ship-building is
also carried on in three commodious yards belonging to
the town, and in another in the adjoining parish of
Cardross. There are some good salmon-fisheries in the
Clyde and Leven. The latter river is navigable at
high-water, for vessels of large burthen, to the quay of
Dumbarton ; but at low tides, a bar and some sand-
banks at the mouth of the river, though partly removed,
allow access only to steamers and small vessels. The
number of vessels employed in the trade of the port is
about forty, of 1220 tons' aggregate burthen.
The market, which is on Tuesday, is amply supplied
with grain and with provisions of all kinds ; and fairs
are held on the third Tuesday in March and May, the
Thursday before Easter, the first Wednesday in June,
which is a large cattle mart, and the second Tuesday
in August and November. The post-office has two daily
deliveries ; and branches of the Commercial and West-
ern banks, and several insurance agencies, have been
established in the town. Facility of communication is
afforded by steam-boats, which ply thrice a day to
Greenock and Glasgow ; and in summer there is a daily
conveyance for passengers to the Loch Lomond steamers,
which touch at Balloch. By charter of Alexander II.,
extended by several of his successors, and confirmed by
charter of James VI., who added a grant of land, the
town possesses all the privileges of a royal burgh ;
303
and under the Municipal Reform act, the government
is vested in a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild,
treasurer, and ten councillors. There are five incor-
porated guilds, viz., the hammermen, tailors, shoe-
makers, coopers, and weavers, for admission into which
the fees are inconsiderable, the highest not exceeding
£1. 2. The magistrates have civil and criminal juris-
diction within the royalty, for which they hold courts
as occasion requires, assisted by the town-clerk, who
acts as assessor ; but the business has of late years
been chiefly brought before the sheriff of the county,
who holds sheriff and commissary courts every Thurs-
day during the session, and small-debt courts every
alternate Thursday. The burgh is associated with
those of Kilmarnock, Renfrew, Rutherglen, and Port-
Glasgow, in returning a member to the imperial parlia-
ment ; the number of qualified voters is 1*0, of whom
163 are burgesses. The county gaol and court-house
are at the end of the main street.
The parish is bounded on the south by the river
Clyde, and on the west by the river Leven, which sepa-
rates it from Cardross ; it is from seven to eight miles
in extreme length, and from three to four in breadth,
and comprises 6529 acres. The surface in the south
is level for nearly two miles from the Clyde, but after-
wards rises abruptly towards the north, becoming chiefly
moorland diversified with small hills of moderate
height. The scenery is in many parts beautifully pic-
turesque. The soil, though in some places shallow, is
generally fertile, partly clay alternated with gravel, and
the lands are in a good state of cultivation ; the crops
are, wheat, oats, barley, bear, peas, and beans, with the
usual grasses. The system of husbandry is improved ;
the lands are inclosed, principally with fences of thorn,
which are well kept, and the farm-houses and offices
are substantial, and commodiously arranged. The sub-
strata are chiefly limestone and sandstone ; of the
former there is an extensive supply at Murroch glen,
and on Dumbarton moor are quarries of red freestone.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £10,810.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintend-
ence of the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr. The minister's stipend is £233, with
a manse, and an allowance of £16 in lieu of glebe ; pa-
trons, the Town Council. The present church, built
about 1810, and situated in the town, is a spacious
structure containing 1500 sittings. A missionary is
established here, who receives a stipend of £52, raised
by subscription ; and there are places of worship for
members of the Free Church and United Associate
Synod, and a Roman Catholic chapel. The parochial
school is attended by nearly 200 children ; the master
has a salary of £40, with a school-house, and the
fees, though very moderate, are considerable from the
number of scholars. The school is under the patronage
of the council. Dr. Smollett, author of Roderick Random,
received the rudiments of his education in the parish ;
and Dr. Colquhoun, author of a treatise on the Wealth,
Power, and Resources of the British Empire, was born
here. The town conferred the title of Earl on the
Douglas family, but it became extinct on the demise of
the second earl without issue, about the middle of the
last century.
DUMBARTONSHIRE, a county, in the west of
Scotland, bounded on the north by Perthshire, on the
DUMB
DUMB
east by the counties of Perth and Stirling, on the
south by the Frith of Clyde, and on the west by Argyll-
shire. It lies between 55° 53' 30" and 56° 19' 40"
(N. Lat.) and 3° 54' 50" and 4° 53' (W. Long.), and, includ-
ing the detached parishes of Kirkintilloch and Cumber-
nauld, which extend towards the east for 12 miles between
the counties of Stirling and Lanark, is about 57 miles
in length. It varies from 24 to 2 miles in breadth, and
contains an area of 26l square miles, or 167,040 acres;
8369 houses, of which 7985 are inhabited; and a popula-
tion of 44,296, of whom 22,542 are males, and 21,754
females. This district was originally inhabited by the
British tribe of the Attacotti, whose descendants retained
their possessions long after the British kingdom of
Strathelyde had been subdued by Kenneth Mc Alpine,
and subsisted as a distinct race till the middle of the
twelfth century. That part of the county bordering on
the river Leven obtained the appellation of Levenach,
afterwards corrupted into Lennox, and, in the reign
of William the Lion, belonged to a powerful Saxon
family, of whom Alwyn was by that monarch created Earl
of Lennox. The earldom was subsequently raised to a
dukedom ; and on the demise of the sixth duke without
issue, the title and estates were conferred upon Charles
Lennox, whom Charles II. created Duke of Richmond.
During the disputes relating to the succession to the
throne after the death of Alexander III., the county was
frequently the seat of war ; and the castle of Dumbarton
was alternately in the possession of the contending par-
ties. Prior to the Reformation the county was included
in the diocese of Glasgow; at present it is in the synod
of Glasgow and Ayr, and comprises a large part of the
presbytery of Dumbarton, and a portion of that of Glas-
gow, and twelve parishes. The various courts are held
at Dumbarton, which is the county town, and the only
royal burgh ; there are four burghs of baron)', and several
villages. Under the act of the 2nd of William IV., the
county returns one member to the imperial parliament.
The surface is strikingly diversified with mountains
and lakes, and displays an interesting combination of the
most beautiful features of Highland scenery, embracing
straths of rich fertility and pleasing appearance. The
northern part of the county abounds with mountains of
majestic elevation, and throughout the whole of that dis-
trict, which comprises an area of nearly fifty square
miles, not more than 400 acres have been subjected to
the plough. The southern district, though less elevated,
consists of two ridges of hills of considerable height,
reaching from east to west, between which is the pictu-
resque vale of Glenfruin, more than five miles in length.
The highest of the mountains are Ben-Voirlich, near
the north-western extremity of Loch Lomond, rising
3300 feet above the level of the sea ; Ben-Cruachanstean,
Corafuar, Shantron, Beneich, and Doune, some of which
attain an elevation of 5000 feet ; and Ben-Finnart, 2500
feet in height. The Kilpatrick braes, in the south of the
county, are a beautiful range of hills intersecting an
extensive tract of lowland in high cultivation, and have
an elevation of 1200 feet, commanding from their sum-
mits richly-varied prospects over a most interesting dis-
trict of the country. The principal lake is Loch Lomond,
which, after intersecting a small portion of the county
on the north, forms part of its eastern boundary, sepa-
rating it from Stirling. This noble expanse of water is
about twenty-four miles in length from north to south,
304
and seven miles broad in the widest part, and is studded
with numerous picturesque islands, of which the chief
are, Inch-Murin, Inch-Lonaig, Inch-Tavanach, Inch-
Moan, Inch-Conachan, and Iuch-Galbraith, exclusively
of other islands in that part of it included within Stirling.
The river Leven issues from the loch at its southern
extremity, and, after a course of about seven miles, flows
into the Frith of Clyde. There are several other lakes
in the county, of which Loch Sloy, in the parish of
Arrochar, was formerly the rendezvous of the clan
Mac Farlane ; it is about a mile in length, and half
a mile broad. In the parishes of Old Kilpatrick and
Cumbernauld are several of considerable extent. There
are also two salt-water lakes, Loch Gareloch and Loch
Long, between which the parish of Roseneath forms a
peninsula ; they both extend northward from the Frith
of Clyde, the former intersecting the county for about
six miles, and the latter forming its boundary on the
west.
About one-third of the land is in cultivation, and
the remainder is mountain pasture, wood, and lakes.
The soil along the borders of the Frith and the river
Leven is a deep black loam ; in some parts of the county
is a gravelly loam, and in others clay, resting on a tilly
bottom. The system of agriculture on the best farms is
equal to any in the west of Scotland ; the land is well
drained and inclosed ; much waste has been brought
into cultivation ; the farm-buildings are substantial and
commodious, and considerable improvement has been
gradually taking place. The mountains afford good
pasture for cattle, which are chiefly of the Highland
breed, and the cows pastured on the lowlands for the
dairy are the pure Ayrshire, with a mixture of the Ayr-
shire and the Highland breeds. The sheep are generally
the black-faced on the hill pastures, and the Cheviot
breed on the lowlands. The rateable annual value of the
county is £147,080. The substrata are mostly mica-
slate, limestone, and coal ; the mica-slate is wrought at
the quarries of Luss and Camstradden, and the seams
are frequently traversed by veins of quartz, and abound
with pyrites of iron. The limestone is of a deep blue or
almost black colour, and is extensively wrought, as is
the coal, which is found in seams nearly five feet in
thickness ; sandstone and trap are also abundant, and
columnar basalt occurs in several parts. The woods
and plantations are in a thriving condition; the soil
appears well adapted to the growth of timber, and the
extensive tracts of wood add greatly to the appearance
of the scenery. The seats are, Cumbernauld, Roseneath,
Rossdhu, Balloch, Tilliechewen, Strath-Leven, Arden-
connell, Auchintorlie, Ardincaple, Cames-Eskan, Gars-
cube, Broomly, Woodbank, and Cameron. The chief
manufactures are those of glass and glass bottles ; there
are also some cotton-printing works, and bleaching-fields
for cotton and linen, on the banks of the Leven, the water
of which, from its purity, is well adapted to the purpose.
Facility of communication is afforded by good roads,
which have been greatly extended and improved within
the last few years.
DUMBUCK, or Milton, a village, in the parish of
Old Kilpatrick, county of Dumbarton, 2 miles (E.)
from Dumbarton; containing 126 inhabitants. It is
north of the Frith of Clyde, and on the road between
Dumbarton and Glasgow. The population is chiefly
employed in manufactures.
D UM F
DUMP
DUMFRIES, a royal
burgh, county town, port,
\S/Q\ffc) and the seat of a presbytery
J"8C\lf^ anc' syn°d> 'n tne county of
Sasl&s! Dumfries; comprising the
jS^pi parishes of St. Michael and
" New-Church, with the vil-
lages of Georgetown, Loch-
arbriggs, Lochthorn, and
part of Kelton ; and con-
taining 11,409 inhabitants,
of whom 10,069 are in the
burgh; 7l| miles (S. by W.)
from Edinburgh. This place is supposed to have de-
rived its name from its situation on an eminence rising
from a tract of sterile soil abounding in brushwood or
furze. Little is recorded of its early history, though,
from numerous relics of antiquity, it would appear to
have been of some importance prior to the Sth century.
The ancient castle of the Comyns family, of which the
site, overlooking the river Nith, still retains the name of
Castle-dykes, has long since disappeared ; nor is the
date of its erection known, though it is noticed as a
place of formidable strength before the reign of Edward I.
A monastery was founded by Dervorgilla, daughter of
Allan, Lord of Galloway, and mother of John Baliol, King
of Scotland, about the beginning of the 13th century,
for Franciscan friars, on an eminence above the Nith,
by which it is washed on the north and west ; and a
noble bridge, originally of thirteen arches, was erected
by the founder over the river, for the accommodation
of the brethren. In 1305, Robert Bruce, attended by
Roger de Kirkpatrick and James Lindsay, held a con-
ference in the chapel of this monastery with John
Comyn, surnamed the Red, and in a dispute with that
nobleman, whom he charged with treacherously reveal-
ing to Edward I. the designs he had formed for the
emancipation of his country from the English yoke,
stabbed him with his dagger. Upon this he hastily
rejoined his attendants ; but Kirkpatrick, resolving to
make sure of Comyn's death, returned into the church,
despatched the wounded chieftain, and also killed his
brother who interposed for his defence. The church,
being thus polluted with blood, was soon afterwards
deserted, and the friars removed their establishment
to the chape] of St. Michael, south- east of the town.
There are no remains of the monastery, and the only
memorial of it preserved is the name of the narrow
street leading to it from the bridge, and which is still
called the Friars" Vennel.
In 130", Edward II. of England, after his coronation,
advanced to Dumfries to receive the homage of several
of the Scottish nobility ; and the town was afterwards
repeatedly attacked by the English, by whom it was
burnt in 144S, and also in 1536. In retaliation of the
latter injury, Lord Maxwell of Terregles, a powerful
nobleman, with a body of his retainers, crossed the
border, and, penetrating into England, assaulted the
town of Penrith, which he reduced to ashes. The
Maxwells, who had an ancient castle near the site of
the monastery, supposed to have been built, in the
12th century, erected a more spacious and magnificent
structure, partly out of the ruins, and almost on the
site of the deserted friary ; and this castle, in 1563, was
visited by Mary, Queen of Scots, who, attended by her
Vol. I.— 305
privy council, came to Dumfries to ratify a treaty of
peace with England. In 1565, the disaffected Lords
Argyll, Murray, Rothes, and others having assembled a
hostile force in the neighbourhood, the queen advanced
to the town with an army of 18,000 men ; the discon-
tented nobles, on her approach, fled into England, and
Lord Maxwell, having incurred her displeasure, con-
ciliated her favour by surrendering his castle, of which,
however, he was permitted to retain the government.
In 1570, this castle was taken and plundered by the
English forces under the command of the Earl of Essex
and Lord Scrope, who also laid waste the town.
In 1617, James VI., after his accession to the crown
of England, visited his ancient dominions, and, passing
through Dumfries, remained for one night in the town.
He was received with every demonstration of affec-
tionate loyalty, and presented to the corporation a
silver gun, to be periodically contested for as a prize
for the successful competitor, among the several crafts,
in shooting at a target. The house in which the king
lodged was built by a poor labourer who, having found
a large treasure while digging peat in the Lochar moss,
took a journey to London, where, in a personal inter-
view with the monarch, he was allowed to retain pos-
session of it, and advised to build a house, in which the
king promised to lodge when he visited his Scottish
dominions. The inhabitants displayed a marked oppo-
sition to the union of the two kingdoms in 1706, and to
testify their aversion to that measure, burnt a paper
containing the articles of union and the names of the
commissioners at the market-cross. At the time of
the rebellion in 1715, however, they zealously asserted
their allegiance to the reigning monarch ; and on being
apprised of the design of Lord Kenmuir to visit the
town with a large body of insurgents, they so com-
pletely fortified it where it was most exposed to any
attack, that the party were induced to abandon their in-
tention. In 1745 the Pretender, on his return from
England, advanced to Dumfries with a body too power-
ful to be resisted, and took up his quarters in the
town. In resentment of the opposition which his troops
had experienced on their march into England, he levied
a fine of £'2000 in money, and a supply of 1000 pairs of
shoes ; but, being intimidated by a report that the Duke
of Cumberland was rapidly marching to attack him, he
hastily withdrew, taking £1000 of the fine, and the
provost and one of the bailies as hostages for payment
of the remainder.
The town is pleasantly situated on the east bank of
the river Nith, and is about a mile in length, and a
quarter of a mile in breadth ; the streets are regular
and well formed, intersecting each other at right angles.
The houses are uniformly built of red freestone, gene-
rally painted of a colour resembling Portland stone ;
those that are of ancient date are substantial and of
handsome appearance, and those of more modern erec-
tion are conspicuous for elegance. There are also some
handsome ranges of building, of which Queensberry-
square is embellished in the centre with a stately Doric
column, erected in 1780 to the memory of the Duke of
Queensberry. An elegant and commodious bridge was
built over the Nith in 1794, a little above the ancient
bridge of thirteen arches, reduced by frequent altera-
tions to seven arches, and now solely appropriated to foot
passengers. The streets are all well paved, and lighted
SR
DUMF
DUMF
with gas from works established in 1828 ; gas has also
been introduced into the shops and most of the public
buildings, and the inhabitants are amply supplied with
excellent water from springs in the neighbourhood. A
public subscription library was founded in 1*92, and has
a valuable collection on general literature ; there are
also several circulating libraries, a public newsroom,
and four reading-rooms, all supplied with daily journals
and periodical publications, besides a mechanics' insti-
tution which has a good collection of books. Card and
dancing assemblies are held in a handsome suite of
rooms recently erected for the purpose in George-street ;
and a theatre, a commodious and well-arranged building,
in which Kean made his first appearance, is open for
two or three months during the season. Races take
place annually on the Tinwald Downs, and are well
attended ; a regatta is celebrated by a club established
here ; and the members of the Caledonian hunt hold
their meetings by rotation in the town. The Dumfries
and Galloway Horticultural Society, instituted in 1812
for the promotion of improvements in horticulture, also
meet here periodically.
The cotton manufacture, consisting chiefly of checked
cottons, formerly carried on to a very considerable
extent, has been for some time nearly discontinued, and
the few spinners of the town who remain are mostly
employed by the Carlisle and Glasgow manufacturers.
The principal manufactures now are those of hats
and stockings ; of the former there are three establish-
ments, affording employment to about 200 persons in
the aggregate, and in the latter 279 looms are con-
stantly in operation. The tanning of leather is also
pursued, and the hides are sent to Glasgow, London,
and other parts of the United Kingdom, in large quan-
tities. The manufacture of shoes is very extensive,
giving occupation to about 300 persons ; and a consi-
derable number are engaged in the making of clogs,
or shoes with wooden soles, a trade not now, as for-
merly, confined to the supply of the south of Scotland,
and which has been introduced with great profit. There
are also several public breweries, and a large basket-
making establishment. A very lucrative trade is car-
ried on in the sale of pork, of which, during the season,
commencing about the close of December, and ending
about the beginning of April, many thousand carcases
are sent to the south to be cured ; not less than 700
are sold weekly for this purpose, upon an average, and
frequently sales to the amount of £4000 or £5000 have
been effected in one day. The foreign trade of the port
consists chiefly in the importation of timber from Ame-
rica, in which several large vessels are engaged ; the
traffic in tobacco, formerly extensive, has been for
many years discontinued. The coasting trade is mainly
with Liverpool, Whitehaven, Maryport, and other parts
of the English and Irish shores. The imports are, tim-
ber to the amount of nearly £10,000 per annum, coal,
slate, iron, tallow, hemp, and wine; and the exports,
cattle, sheep, wool, freestone, oats, barley, wheat, and
other agricultural produce. The number of vessels
registered in 1843 was 220, of the aggregate burthen
of 12,380 tons ; the jurisdiction of the port, which
includes the Creek of Annan, extends from Sark foot
at the head of the Solway Frith, to Glenluce on the
Galloway coast, and the amount of duties paid at the
custom-house in the year 1843 was £8764.
306
Since the channel of the river has been made deeper,
vessels of considerable burthen can approach the town,
by which means the inhabitants obtain with great faci-
lity a supply of coal from Whitehaven ; there are also a
commodious quay near Castle-dykes, another for ves-
sels of greater burthen about a mile below it, and one
at the mouth of the river for vessels engaged in the
foreign trade. The various improvements connected
with the harbour were completed at a cost of £18,530.
A steam-vessel plies weekly between Dumfries and
Whitehaven, during the summer months, and great
quantities of live stock, especially sheep, are thus sent
to the English markets. The post-office has a good
delivery ; and branches of the Bank of Scotland, the
National and Commercial banks, and of the bank of the
British Linen Company, have been established in the
town. The market, which is abundantly supplied and
numerously attended, is on Wednesday, when a great
amount of business is transacted by cattle-dealers, on
an open area near the river, called the Sands ; and
the fairs, chiefly for cattle, are held at Whitsuntide and
Martinmas, and for horses in February and October,
at all of which extensive sales are made. At the fair
in February, large numbers of hare-skins are sold, ave-
raging generally about 30,000. A cattle-market is also
held in September, about the time of the Broughill-
fair, in Cumberland, when, upon an average, about 4500
head are exposed for sale, mostly three-year-old Gal-
loways, and others of the Highland breed ; and on some
occasions business to the amount of £30,000 has been
transacted. The market for meal is still held in a build-
ing appropriated to that purpose ; but the shambles for
butchers' meat have been long deserted, the butchers
finding it more profitable to open shops in different
parts of the town.
The town was made a royal burgh by William the
Lion, prior to the year 1214. In 1396, Robert III. con-
ferred upon the inhabitants various valuable immu-
nities, which were confirmed by James I., who by char-
ter in 1415 granted additional privileges; and in 1469,
James III. gave to the corporation all the lands and
revenues which belonged to the monastery of the Grey
friars. The corporation consists of a provost, three
bailies, a dean of guild, treasurer, twelve merchant and
seven trade councillors, these seven being the convener
and six other deacons of the incorporated trades ; and
all the officers are elected under the provisions of the
late Municipal Reform act. The incorporated trades are
the hammermen, masons, weavers, tailors, shoemakers,
skinners, and butchers ; the fee for admission as a
member is, for a stranger £10, and for the son or son-
in-law of a freeman £1. 1. The jurisdiction of the
burgh extends over the whole of the royalty ; and the
magistrates hold courts for the determination of civil
pleas and the trial of petty offences, in which they are
assisted by the town-clerk, who acts as assessor. The
police is undar the direction of a body of commissioners
chosen by the £10 householders, and of whom the pro-
vost, the bailies, and the convener are members ex
officio ; the number of commissioners is twelve, two of
whom have the superintendence of each of the six wards
into which the burgh is divided. As the county town,
the courts of assize and quarter sessions, the sheriff's
courts, and those of the commissary are regularly held
here, and the public business of the county transacted.
D U M F
DUMF
In the centre of the High-street stands what is called
the Mid Steeple, a handsome building erected by the
celebrated Inigo Jones, and comprising a hall and other
apartments for the meetings of the town-council ; and
opposite to it is the Trades'-hall, a neat structure erected
in 1S04. The County hall, or court-house, is a spacious
and elegant edifice, comprising an ample hall for the
county meetings, rooms for holding the several courts,
with apartments for the judges, and accommodation for
witnesses and others connected with the business of
the sessions. A building originally intended for a bride-
well has been appropriated as a depot for the county
militia, and that which was at first designed for the
court-house has been arranged as a bridewell; it is,
however, small and ill adapted for classification. Be-
hind the bridewell is the County gaol, erected in 1807,
and inclosed with a high wall, in the area between
which and the building prisoners for debt have the
privilege of exercise : a subterranean passage leads from
the prison to the court-room, and by this prisoners are
led to trial. The biu-gh is associated with those of
Annan, Kirkcudbright, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar, in
returning a representative to the house of commons ;
the parliamentary boundary includes the whole of the
royalty, with the exception of some lands to the south
and east of the town, and also includes the suburb of
Maxwelltown, a burgh of barony on the west side of the
river. The right of election under the Reform act is
vested in the £10 householders ; the sheriff is the return-
ing officer.
The parish is nearly seven miles in length, and from
two to three in breadth, comprising about 92S0 acres,
of which 7930 are arable, 320 pasture, and the remain-
der, of which the far greater portion will probably be
brought under profitable cultivation, moss and waste
land. The surface, though generally level, is diversified
by the elevated site of the town, and by a ridge of hills
near the southern extremity, of no great height, sloping
gradually towards the river on the south-west, and
rising abruptly on the north-east. On this latter side,
about a mile below the town, is a singular cavity in the
face of the rock, named the Maiden Bower ; and
towards the south-east of the parish is an eminence
called Trohaughton, supposed to have been the site of
a Roman camp. The river Lochar, which rises in the
adjoining parish of Tinwald, and falls into the Sol-
way Frith, bounds Dumfries on the east, forming in
the south an extensive tract of marsh called Lochar
Moss, partly in this parish, and partly in Torthorwald
and Mousewald. There are also several lakes, of which
the principal are Black loch and Sand loch, both
abounding with trout and perch. The soil in the
north and north-east is generally a light reddish sandy
loam, resting on a substratum of freestone ; and in
other parts, and especially near the river, a retentive
clay, with a substratum of gravel. The crops are, oats,
barley, wheat, turnips, and potatoes ; the rotation sys-
tem of husbandry is practised, and the state of agricul-
ture is much improved. Considerable attention is paid
to live stock : with the exception of Ayrshire cows on
the dairy-farms, the cattle are usually of the pure
Galloway breed. The farm-buildings, though inferior
to many others, are still commodious ; the lands are
well inclosed, and portions of the Lochar moss were
some years ago brought into cultivation, yielding abun-
307
dant crops of oats, potatoes, and rye-grass. Upon this
moss, ploughing by steam was first attempted in Scot-
land, and has proved quite successful ; but, although
many thousands of pounds have been spent in thus
reclaiming the moss by the plough, it is the opinion of
many practically acquainted with the subject, that a
considerable quantity of sand, clay, or some other solid
earthy substance must be laid upon it so as to con-
solidate it. Some idea of the weight and bulk of the
ploughing machinery may be formed from the mention
of the fact, that the expense of carting it from Glen-
caple-Quay, only three miles distant, was as much as
£15. There are several quarries of red sandstone in
the parish, of which four are extensively wrought ;
and also some salmon and trout fisheries, the rents of
which yield about £500 per annum. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £24,743.
For ecclesiastical purposes the parish was divided,
in 1727, by authority of the presbytery, with the con-
currence of the magistrates of the burgh, into two dis-
tricts, and an additional church was erected, which still
retains the appellation of the New Church, and has a
minister appointed by the Crown as patron of both.
The minister of the old parish, now the district of St.
Michael, has a stipend ' of £332, with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £25 per annum. The church, situ-
ated at the south-east end of the town, was built on
the site of the ancient structure in 1/45 ; it is a neat
edifice with a lofty graceful spire, and contains 1250
sittings. The churchyard, which is spacious, contains
a large number of monuments, including many of
deeply interesting character. The remains of the poet
Burns were originally interred in the northern angle of
the burying-ground, under a plain slab placed by his
widow; but in 1815 his ashes were removed into a
handsome mausoleum erected by his countrymen, at an
expense of £1450, and above the entrance of which is
a representation of the Genius of Scotland throwing her
mantle over the poet while at the plough, finely sculp-
tured in marble by Turnerelli. It has been calculated
that the vast number of monuments in this churchyard
must have cost more than £100,000. The minister of
the New Church district has a stipend of £281. 13., of
which £151. 13., including an allowance of £50 in lieu
of manse and glebe, are paid by the exchequer. The
church, situated at the north-west end of the town, was
erected on the site, and partly with the materials, of
the ancient castle, at the expense of the town-council,
in 1727; it is a neat structure containing 11S5 sittings.
The subordinate church of St. Mary, fronting the road
to England, was erected in 1838, at a cost of £3000,
by subscription; it is an elegant structure after a design
by Mr. Henderson, of Edinburgh, in the later English
style of architecture, with an embattled tower sur-
mounted by a lofty spire strengthened with flying but-
tresses. An episcopal chapel was erected in 1S17, at
a cost of £2200 ; and there are places of worship for
members of the Free Church, the United Secession,
the Relief Church, Reformed Presbyterians, Indepen-
dents, and Wesleyans, and a Roman Catholic chapel.
The Dumfries Academy, for which a spacious building
was erected by subscription in 1800, is under the super-
intendence of a rector and four masters, appointed by
the corporation. The rector, in addition to the fees,
which are moderate, has the interest of £660. 6. 3., and
2 R 2
DUMF
D U M F
each of the four masters the interest of £204. 8. 10.,
arising from endowments ; and there are also a French
and a drawing master, who are paid exclusively by the
fees. The course of instruction comprises the Greek,
Latin, French, and English languages, the mathematics,
geography, arithmetic, book-keeping, writing, and draw-
ing. Two schools, one for the instruction of children
of both sexes in reading, writing, arithmetic, and the
principles of religion, and the other for teaching girls to
sew, and to read the Bible, are supported by the High-
land Education Society and some benevolent societies
established in the parish ; the teachers have each a
house rent-free, and the former a salary of £60, and the
latter of £20 per annum. There are also two schools
for adults, supported by contributions, and an infant
school. The Crichton Royal Institution or asylum origi-
nated with the late Dr. Crichton, of Friars' Carse, who
bequeathed £100,000 to his widow to be appropriated
to charitable purposes in Scotland in any mode she
might think proper. This establishment, which enjoys
the reputation of being the best lunatic asylum in Scot-
land, is situated on an eminence about three-quarters of
a mile from the south-eastern extremity of the town :
the building was erected in 1S39, after a design by Mr.
Burn, in the Grecian style, and is of handsome ap-
pearance, and surrounded by ample grounds, very
tastefully laid out. A house for poor orphans and
aged persons was erected in 1733, with funds bequeathed
for that purpose by William Muirhead, merchant, of
Carlisle, and his cousin James Muirhead, of Castle-dykes.
The establishment, which is further supported by annual
subscriptions and donations, is under the direction of a
committee chosen from the Kirk Session, the town-coun-
cil, and others, who meet weekly. The building eon-
tains accommodation for twenty children and thirty
aged persons, under the care of a master and mistress,
who reside in the house. The children are taught writ-
ing, reading, arithmetic, and the principles of religion,
and when of proper age are apprenticed to trades, or
placed out to service ; and connected with the establish-
ment are forty-two widows, who receive pensions at
their own dwellings. The expenses of the establish-
ment average about £500 per annum.
The Infirmary, with which was once connected a lunatic
asylum, was founded in 1776, and is superintended by
a committee of subscribers ; the medical department is
under the inspection of two visiting physicians and
surgeons, and a resident house surgeon ; and a licen-
tiate of the Established Church officiates as chaplain.
The average number of patients in the house is 30, and
from 700 to 800 receive advice and medicines at the
institution annually. The expenditure is about £1300
_per annum, defrayed by bequests, donations, and sub-
scriptions, and liberal contributions from the counties
of Dumfries and Wigton, and the stewartry of Kirk-
cudbright, to all of which it is open. The Dispensary ,
situated at the western extremity of the town, is sup-
ported by public subscription, and administers exten-
sive relief to the indigent poor. On an eminence near
the entrance into the town from the English road, might
lately be traced the foundations of St. Christopher's
chapel, erected by the Bruce in memory of his father-
in-law, Sir Christopher Seton, who was hanged on that
spot by order of Edward I. On the left bank of the
river, just above the town, is Moat Brae, supposed to
308
have been, during the Saxon era, a place for administer-
ing justice. A Roman sandal was found in the eastern
part of the parish many years since, and in the river a
gold coin, about the size of a sixpenny piece, but much
thicker, bearing a Roman head, with the inscription
Augustus. Among some scraps of old iron, also, was
lately found an ancient seal about two inches in diame-
ter, bearing a lion rampant in a shield bordered with
fleurs de lis, with the legend Jacobus Dei. Gra. Rex.
Scotorum in characters reversed ; it is supposed to have
been the privy seal of one of the Scottish kings.
DUMFRTES-SHIRE, a county in the south of Scot-
land, bounded on the north by the counties of Lanark,
Peebles, and Selkirk, on the east by Roxburghshire and
part of the English county of Cumberland, on the south
by the Solway Frith, and on the west by the county of
Ayr and the stewartry of Kirkcudbright. It lies be-
tween 55° 2' and 55° 31' (N. Lat.) and 2° 39' and 3° 53'
(W. Long.), and is about fifty miles in length and thirty
miles in breadth, comprising 1016 square miles, or
650,240 acres; 14,356 inhabited houses, and 733 un-
inhabited ; and containing a population of 72,830, of
whom 34,137 are males and 3S,693 females. The county
was originally inhabited by the Selgova, and after the
invasion of the Romans formed part of the province of
Valentia; upon the departure of the Romans it was
occupied by the Northumbrian Saxons, and subsequently
by numerous emigrants from Ireland, who had settled
first on the peninsula of Cantyre. In the reign of
David I. many of the Norman barons obtained posses-
sions here, among whom was Robert de Brus, who pro-
cured a grant of the lands of Annandale, and was an-
cestor of Robert Bruce, King of Scotland. Previously
to the reign of James VI., the county was the scene of
numerous sanguinary conflicts between the hostile clans,
and, from its situation near the border, was subject to
repeated predatory incursions of the English. It was
anciently included in the diocese of Glasgow, and com-
prised the deaneries of Nithsdale and Annandale ; at
present it constitutes the greater part of the synod of
Dumfries, and contains several presbyteries, and forty-
two parishes. It includes the royal burghs of Dum-
fries, which is the county town, Annan, Lochmaben,
and Sanquhar ; and the towns of Moffat, Lockerbie,
Langholm, Ecclesfechan, Thornhill, and Minniehive,
which are all burghs of barony. Under the act of the
2nd of William IV., the county returns one member to
the imperial parliament.
The surface near the sea-coast is level, rising to-
wards the middle portion into ridges of hills of moderate
elevation, intersected with fertile vales, and becoming
mountainous in the north. The whole is separated into
three principal districts, each deriving its name from
the river which flows through it ; of these, Eskdale
forms the eastern, Annandale the middle, and Nithsdale
the western part of the county. The chief mountains in
Eskdale are, the Langholm, the Wisp, the Tinnis, and
Etterick-Penn, varying from 1200 to 2220 feet in height;
in Annandale, Errickstane-Brae, Loch- Skene, and the
Hartfell, from 1118 to 2629 feet; and in Nithsdale,
Cairn-Kinnow, Queensberry, Black-Larg, and the Low-
thers, which have elevations ranging from 2080 to 3150
feet above the level of the sea. From each of the three
dales diverge smaller valleys, watered by their several
streams, and of which the principal are Moffatdale,
DUMP
DUN
Dryfesdale, and Eskdale. The river Esk has its source
in the vale to which it gives name, and, receiving in its
course the White Esk, which rises on the borders of
Selkirk, flows into the Solway Frith. The Annan rises
on the borders of Peeblesshire, and, after being augmented
by numerous tributary streams, also falls into the Frith ;
and the Nith, rising in Ayrshire, and pursuing a south-
east course, joins the Solway Frith about three miles
below the town of Dumfries. The rivers and their tri-
butaries abound with excellent trout. There are also
numerous lakes, of which not less than nine are in the
parish of Lochmaben ; and in the mountain of Loch-
Skene is one that forms the picturesque cascade called
the Grey-mare's-tail. There is not much timber of
ancient growth : the parish of Tinwald was formerly
one extensive forest, but it has long since disappeared ;
and the woods and plantations are now chiefly those
around the houses of the landowners. The soil varies
from a rich loam to a light sand ; the system of agricul-
ture is in an improved state, and considerable attention
is paid to the rearing of live stock. The cattle are
chiefly of the Galloway breed, and the cows on the
dairy-farms of the Ayrshire ; the sheep are generally of
the Cheviot and black-faced breeds ; vast numbers of
pigs are kept, and great quantities of bacon and hams are
sent to the Liverpool, Newcastle, and London markets.
The minerals are mostly lead, antimony, iron, and
gypsum. The lead is found in great abundance, and
mines are in operation at Leadhills and Wanlockhead,
from which 48,000 tons have been annually extracted ;
in the mines at Wanlock the ore contains a considerable
proportion of silver, varying from six to twelve ounces
in the ton. In these mountains, gold has been found
in veins of quartz and in the sand of the streams at their
base, and in the reign of James V. 300 men were em-
ployed for several summers in collecting gold, which
they obtained to the value of £100,000. The search was
renewed under the superintendence of Sir Bevis Bulmer,
master of the mint to Queen Elizabeth, with the con-
currence of James VI.; and particles of gold adhering to
pieces of quartz have been since found, the largest of
which, weighing nearly five ounces, is in the British
Museum. The antimony was discovered in 1760, but
was not wrought till 1793, when a mine was opened
at Glendinning, from which 100 tons of the regulus
were taken annually, valued at £84 per ton. The
ironstone occurs chiefly in masses, and the gypsum
in thin veins ; coal is found in abundance, but of a very
inferior kind, and is wrought only at Sanquhar and
Canonbie. Sandstone of various colours and of good
quality for building is extensively quarried, as is lime-
stone, of which the principal quarries are in Nithsdale
and Annandale ; there are also veins of slate and marble.
The rateable annual value of the county is £c29l,S70.
The seats are, Drumlanrig Castle, Kinmount, Comlougan
Castle, Raehills, Springkell, Jardine Hall, Maxwelltown,
Anisfield, Closeburn Hall, Craigdarroch, Wester Hall,
Drumcrieff, Hoddarn Castle, Dalswinton, Murraythwaite,
Blackwood House, Langholm Lodge, Terregles, Moss-
know, and various others. The manufactures are neither
numerous nor extensive; the principal are, the weaving
of linen for home use, the spinning and weaving of
cotton, the woollen manufacture, and the weaving of
carpets, which last employs about 100 persons. Salt
is made in the parishes of Cummertrees and Ruthwell,
309
and is exempt from duty. Facilities of communication
are afforded by good roads, and by bridges over the
several rivers, and a railroad in connexion with lime-
works has been laid down at Closeburn ; steamers, also,
navigate the Solway Frith, affording an easy mode of
conveying agricultural produce to England. There are
numerous remains of antiquity, consisting of Druidical
circles, British forts, Roman roads, ancient castles,
cairns, mounds, and various other relics. The county
contains some mineral springs, of which the chief are
chalybeate, and near Closeburn House is a sulphureous
spring, issuing from the marshy lands ; at Hartfell and
Moffat are springs of both kinds, of which the waters
are extensively used. The county gives the title of Earl
to the Marquess of Bute.
DUN, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 4 miles
(N. W. by W.) from Montrose; containing 581 inhabit-
ants. This place by some antiquaries is supposed to
have derived its name from the family of Dun, who
were its ancient proprietors, and by others, with appa-
rently greater probability, from its elevation above the
level of the river South Esk, which forms its boundary
on the south. The parish is about four miles in length,
and nearly of equal breadth, and comprises 3480 acres,
of which '2600 are arable, 300 meadow and pasture, 550
woodland and plantations, and about 100 uncultivated
moor. A small part of the lands, called Fort Hill, is
divided from the rest by the estuary or basin of Mon-
trose. The surface is very irregular; near the river and
the basin it is level, but towards the north rises gradually
to a considerable elevation. Within the limits of the
parish is a lake called Dun's Dish, covering about forty
acres, and which is supplied from numerous springs in
the adjacent grounds, and forms a reservoir for the
use of various mills. The scenery is enriched by luxu-
riant woods and thriving plantations around the de-
mesnes of Dun House and Langley Park. The soil in
the vicinity of the basin of Montrose, from the encroach-
ment of which the lands are defended by an embankment,
is a loamy clay of great fertility ; in the rising grounds
a deep rich loam, and in other places light and sandy.
The crops are, oats, barley, wheat, peas, beans, potatoes,
and turnips ; the system of agriculture is improved, and
the five and six shift courses of husbandry are generally
practised, the former in the upper, and the latter in the
lower districts. The lands are well drained and inclosed;
the farm-buildings are mostly substantial and commo-
dious. The cattle reared in the parish are mainly of the
black Angus breed, resembling the Galloway, and which
thrive well, and grow to a great weight. A fishery in
the South Esk, in which salmon and trout are plentiful,
produces about £100 annually; and there is also a fishery
in the sands of the basin of Montrose, chiefly for muscles,
and of nearly equal value. Facility of communication is
afforded by good roads, of which that from Brechin to
Montrose passes through the parish. Dun House,
a substantial mansion, built in 1730, and now the pro-
perty of the Marquess of Ailsa, in right of the mar-
chioness, who is daughter of the late John Erskine, Esq.,
is finely situated on rising ground, surrounded with old
wood, and, having a southern aspect, presents a beauti-
ful object from the opposite side of the South Esk.
East, of Dun House is Langley Park, the handsome seat
of the Cruicksbank family. The rateable aunual value
of the parish is £6818. Dun is in the presbytery of
D U N B
D UNB
Brechin and synod of Angus and Mearns, and in the
patronage of the Marchioness ; the minister's stipend is
£159, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum.
The chapel formerly attached to the old mansion-house
of the family of Dun having fallen into a dilapidated
state, a church was erected in lieu in 1834. The pa-
rochial school is well attended ; the master has a salary of
£34, with £13 fees, and a house and garden. The poor
have the interest of money producing £11 per annum.
DUNBAR, a burgh, mar-
ket-town, and parish, in the
county of Haddington ;
containing, with the villages
of East and West Barns,
44/1 inhabitants, of whom
3013 are' in the burgh, 1 1
miles (E. by N.) from Had-
dington, and 28 (E. by N.)
from Edinburgh. This place
is of remote antiquity, and
appears to have derived its
Burg li Heal. name from the situation of
its castle on a high and rugged rock, forming a conspi-
cuous landmark. The castle was given by Kenneth I.,
King of Scotland, to an eminent warrior named Bar, to
which circumstance some writers erroneously refer the
origin of its name ; and in 1072, the castle and lands
were conferred by Malcolm upon Cospatrick, Earl of
Northumberland, and afterwards Earl of Dunbar, who
had taken refuge at his court from the tyranny of
William the Conqueror, and whose descendants for
many generations made this their chief baronial resi-
dence. In 1296, the eighth earl of Dunbar and March
having formed an alliance with England, Edward I.
sent Earl Warren to besiege the castle, which had been
surrendered by the Countess of Dunbar to the Scots,
whose army, assembled at this place, was totally routed
by the English at the battle of Dunbar, with great
slaughter. After the defeat of his forces at Bannock-
burn in 1314, Edward II., previously to his embarka-
tion for Berwick, took shelter in the castle of Dunbar,
which, from its great strength and the importance of its
situation, was regarded as the key of Scotland, and con-
sequently exposed to continual assaults during the wars
with England. The ninth earl of Dunbar, to prevent
its falling into the hands of the English, levelled the
castle to the ground, and was compelled by Edward HI.
to rebuild it at his own expense; in 1337 it was be-
sieged by the Earl of Salisbury, and most resolutely
defended by Agnes, Countess of Dunbar, who compelled
the English forces to raise the siege. In 1435, the
castle and the seigniories of Dunbar and March became
forfeited to the crown, on the attainder of the tenth
earl, and were bestowed by James I. on the Duke of
Albany ; and in 1446, the queen dowager of that
monarch died in the castle, and was interred at Perth.
In 1475 the Duke of Albany, on his escape from Edin-
burgh, landed at this place, and afterwards embarked
for France ; he soon returned, however, and regained
possession of his castle ; but in 1483 was again com-
pelled to abandon it to the English, by whom it was a
few years subsequently given up to James III. In
1488, an act of the Scottish parliament was passed for
the demolition of this ancient fortress, but it was not
carried into execution for nearly a century.
310
Mary, Queen of Scots, took refuge in the castle after
the murder of David Rizzio, in 1565, and subsequently
appointed the Earl of Bothwell its governor. She also
passed six days here, together with her court, in a tour
along the coast in the following year ; and upon the
murder of Darnley in 1567, Bothwell, attended by 1000
horsemen, arrested the queen on her progress to Stir-
ling, and carried her and her retinue by force to Dunbar,
where he detained her prisoner for twelve days. Soon
after her marriage with Bothwell, she remained here for
some time, while levying forces from Lothian and the
Merse against the people who had taken arms to oppose
the earl ; and marching with these to Carberry Hill, she
there joined the hostile party, and, abandoning Both-
well, the castle was given up by his dependents to the
Earl of Murray, who had been appointed regent of
Scotland, and was soon demolished. In 1650, Dunbar
was the scene of a battle in which Leslie was defeated
with great slaughter, at Downhill ; and in 1745, Sir
John Cope landed his forces at this place, whence, being
joined by two regiments of dragoons, he marched to-
wards Edinburgh, and was totally routed at the battle
of Prestonpans. In 1779, the inhabitants were kept in a
state of alarm by the appearance of the notorious Paul
Jones with a fleet of five ships, which lay off the port
for several days ; and in 1781, Captain Fall, an American
pirate, attempted to carry off a vessel which was in the
mouth of the harbour, but he was beaten off after the
exchange of a few shots by the inhabitants, and aban-
doned his enterprise. To defend the town from similar
attacks, a battery of sixteen guns was erected in the
same year ; and during the apprehension of an invasion
by the French, who were expected to make a descent at
Belhaven bay, an encampment was formed on the com-
mon of West Barns, under the command of General
Don. Soon after, barracks were erected to the west of
the castle for 1200 infantry, and at Belhaven for 300
cavalry ; and a volunteer corps and a troop of yeomanry
were raised in the neighbourhood.
The town, which owes its origin to the castle, round
which it arose at a very early period, is advantageously
situated on the southern shore of the Frith of Forth ;
the houses are neatly built, but the place is not distin-
guished by any architectural features of importance. A
library is supported by subscription, in which is an
extensive collection, and a reading-room is well provided
with periodicals ; there is also a mechanics' institution,
to which there is attached a good library. Assembly-
rooms have been built by subscription, but they are
not eligibly situated. The chief trade of the port is in
herrings, which are taken off the coast, and generally
not less than 300 boats are employed ; this trade hav-
ing of late considerably increased. White-fish of all
kinds, and lobsters in abundance are caught; great
quantities of cod are cured and forwarded to the London
market, and haddocks are smoked principally for Glas-
gow and Edinburgh ; the lobsters are preserved in pits
and sent chiefly to London. A very considerable trade
is carried on in grain, which is raised in the parish
and adjacent district to a great extent, and of very su-
perior quality ; and there is a good foreign trade. Flax-
mills were established at West Barns in 1792, and a
cotton-factory at Belhaven in 1815, but neither have
been attended with success ; a distillery, also, was for-
merly worked extensively, but has been for some years
D U N B
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discontinued. There are two foundries for the manu-
facture of machinery of all kinds, one of which is cele-
brated for its steam-engines. The number of vessels
engaged in the foreign trade that entered inwards in a
recent year was twenty-three, of the aggregate burthen
of 2310 tons, and having 134 men; and the amount of
duties paid at the custom-house was £2942. 15. The
coasting trade is also considerable ; the number of ves-
sels that entered inwards in the same year was 244,
of the aggregate burthen of 11,919 tons, with 762 men ;
and of vessels which cleared outwards, 140, of 70S1
tons, and 478 men. The quantity of foreign grain im-
ported into Dunbar in the year was 203§ quarters of
wheat, and 3346 quarters of barley ; of wheat imported
coastwise 342 quarters, and of barley 2007 quarters.
The wheat exported coastwise was 3608 quarters, of
barley 3936 quarters, of oats 6067 quarters, of peas and
beans 1981 quarters, and of malt 359 bushels, and
wheaten flour 231 sacks. The quantity of coal imported
at Dunbar and its several creeks during the same year
was 9490 tons of Scotch coal, of English 763 tons, and
of English cinders 31 tons ; the whisky amounted to
91,000 gallons. In the year 1844 the number of regis-
tered vessels was twenty-seven, having a tonnage of
1656. The new harbour, just completed, is accessible
to vessels of above 300 tons ; it has nine feet depth of
water at neap, and eighteen feet at spring tides. The
entrance to the old harbour is in some degree obstructed
by rugged rocks : the eastern pier, which had been
damaged by a storm, was repaired in the time of Crom-
well by a parliamentary grant of £300 ; and in 1785,
the ' convention of royal burghs voted £600 for its
further improvement. The post has a good delivery ;
facility of intercourse with the neighbouring towns is
afforded by excellent roads, of which the mail-coach
road to London passes for more than seven miles
through the parish, and packets sail regularly for Leith
and London. The market, on Tuesday, is amply sup-
plied with grain from the surrounding country, and
from the highlands of the county of Berwick ; and fairs
for cattle and all sorts of ware are held at Whitsuntide
and Martinmas (O. S.).
The town was created a free burgh by David II.,
with limits co-extensive with the earldom of March ;
and its various privileges and immunities were confirmed
by succeeding sovereigns, especially by two charters of
Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1555 and 1557, and charters
of James VI., dated at Holyrood House, 1603 and
161S. By these charters the government was vested
in a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and council of
fifteen burgesses, of whom four went out annually, but
were capable of re-election, and by the new council
thus formed the magistrates were appointed. The cor-
poration, however, is now chosen under the authority
of the act of the 3rd and 4th of William IV., and con-
sists of a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and fifteen
councillors. The magistrates are justices of the peace,
with jurisdiction extending over the whole of the royalty,
and have the appointment of a town-clerk, chamberlain,
procurator-fiscal, superintendent of police, and two
burgh schoolmasters. They hold civil and criminal
courts, which were once of some importance ; in the
former the causes are of very trifling amount, and in the
latter the charges extend only to petty misdemeanours.
A sheriff's court for the recovery of small debts seems
311
to have almost superseded the bailies' civil court. The
elective franchise clearly appears to have been exercised
in 1469, and most probably it was possessed at a much
earlier period ; the town returned a member to the
Scottish parliament till the union, since which period
it has united with Haddington, North Berwick, Jed-
burgh, and Lauder, in returning one representative to
the imperial parliament. The right of election is, under
the Reform act, vested in the resident £10 householders ;
the number of registered electors is about 130, of
whom forty-five are burgesses. The gaol is an incon-
venient edifice containing two rooms, and only fit for
temporary confinement for petty misdemeanours ; all
persons charged with more serious offences are com-
mitted to the county gaol at Haddington.
The parish is situated in a richly-cultivated district,
regarded as the finest for corn in the country ; it is
nearly eight miles in length, from east to west, extend-
ing along the shores of the Frith of Forth, and some-
thing more than a mile and a half in breadth. The
surface is varied with hills and dales, the ground rising
gently from the sea to the Lammermoor heights ; the
chief eminences are, Brunt hill, which has an elevation
of 700, and Downhill, which rises to the height of 500
feet above the level of the sea, and is memorable as the
site of Leslie's encampment previous to the defeat of
his forces by Cromwell. The scenery is pleasingly va-
ried, though destitute of wood, with the exception of
some plantations on the demesnes of the principal seats;
and from the summit of the hills are obtained extensive
and interesting views of numerous prominent objects,
among which St. Abb's Head, Traprain law, the Bass
rock, and the isle of May are very conspicuous, and to
which the beautiful woods of Tynninghame form a fine
contrast. The Belton water, taking its name from the
ancient parish in which it rises, joins the sea a little below
Belhaven ; the Broxburn falls into the sea at Broxmouth
Park, and the Dryburn skirts the parish for some dis-
tance on the east. The soil is generally a rich brown
loam ; the system of agriculture is highly improved, and
the whole of the parish, estimated at 7197 acres, is in
the best state of cultivation, producing wheat and grain
of all kinds, beans, peas, and turnips, in the cultivation
of which last foreign manure is applied with success.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £27,701. The
prevailing substrata are, trap rock, red sandstone, lime-
stone, and whinstone. The rocks are of the secondary
formation, with porphyritic and basaltic greenstone in
some parts, and partaking also of the columnar charac-
ter ; the columns are of pentagonal and hexagonal
structure, and of unequal surfaces. Red freestone is
also found in some parts, of different degrees of com-
pactness; the limestone is of excellent quality, and is
extensively quarried for the supply of the parish and of
distant parts, and large quantities of lime are sent to Ber-
wickshire. Coal is found, but not at present in seams of
sufficient thickness to pay for the expense of working it.
Dunbar House, the seat of the Earl of Lauderdale, is
within the park of the old castle ; it is a spacious man-
sion with a front towards the sea, from which it is a
commanding object. Broxmouth Park, the seat of the
Dowager Duchess of Roxburghe, is a handsome resi-
dence of modern style, beautifully situated in a demesne
enriched with stately timber and thriving plantations,
and comprehending much varied scenery. Lochend
D UN B
DUNB
House is an elegant mansion in the later English style,
containing several fine apartments, and pleasantly seated
in a tastefully-disposed and well-cultivated demesne.
Belton House is romantically situated in a deep and
■winding glen, watered by a gently flowing stream, and
is embosomed in woods : near it are some noble silver-
firs more than two centuries old, and a beech-tree of
remarkably luxuriant growth, measuring nearly nineteen
feet in girth at a height of three feet from the ground.
Ninewar House is also beautifully situated, on a gentle
eminence richly wooded, and commanding an extensive
view of the circumjacent country, Belhaven bay, and
the Tynninghame woods.
The parish was anciently included within the diocese
of Lindisfarne, and, together with the other portions of
Lothian, was given up to the king of Scotland in 1020,
and annexed to the bishopric of St. Andrew's. At that
time it was more extensive than at present, and, in
addition to the mother church, comprehended the cha-
pelries of Pinkterton, Heatherwic, Whittingham, Pen-
shiel, Stenton, and Spott. Patrick, the tenth earl of
Dunbar, in 1342 made the parochial church collegiate
for a dean, an arch-priest, and eighteen canons, for
whose support he assigned the income of the chapelries,
which were subsequently converted into churches de-
pendent on that of Dunbar as corps of prebends in the
college. The ecclesiastical affairs are now under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Dunbar and synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale. The stipend of the incum-
bent is £331 ; the manse is a comfortable residence,
built in 1767, and the glebe is valued at £40 per annum.
The collegiate church, a handsome cruciform structure
partly in the Norman and early English styles, was
taken down in 1819, and the present church was built,
and opened for divine service on the 20th of April, 1821 ;
it is conveniently situated, and contains 1S00 sittings.
There is a costly monument erected to the memory
of George Home of Manderston, lord high treasurer of
Scotland, whom James VI., in 1605, created Earl of
Duubar, and who died at Whitehall in 1611, and was
interred in the old church, from which the monument
was removed to the present. He is represented in a
kneeling posture, with a book open before him, and on
each side are two armed knights finely sculptured,
with various emblematical devices. There are places
of worship for the Free Church, the United Associate
Synod, and Wesleyans. Two schools have been founded
by the corporation ; the master of the grammar school
has a salary of £42, with a house and garden, and the
master of the mathematical has £20. with a house, both
sums paid by the corporation. There are also two
parochial schools, one at West Barns, of which the
master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden,
and one at East Barns, of which the master receives
only a single chaldcr, and the interest of £100 be-
queathed by William Hume, Esq., and of £50 by the
Rev. George Bruce.
The ruins of the ancient castle, which was built upon
a lofty rock, and connected with a battery on the ad-
joining land, are scarcely sufficient to give any idea of
its former grandeur. A monastery for Red Priars was
founded in 1218, by Patrick, sixth earl of Dunbar and
March, ol which some slight vestiges are still remain-
ing in a spot called the Friars' Croft ; a monastery of
Carmelites, or White Friars, was founded in 1263, by
312
the seventh earl ; and there was a Maison Dieu in the
burgh, of which the founder and its history are alike
unknown. In digging the site of the reservoir from
which the town is supplied with water, some Roman
medals were found, on which was inscribed the legend
Judea Captiva. On a sequestered spot in the grounds
of Broxmouth House, is a tombstone with the name of
Sir William Douglas in rude characters ; and in the
park is an elevated mound on which Oliver Cromwell
reconnoitered the forces of Leslie previously to the
battle of Downhill. Columba Dunbar, who was dean of
the collegiate church, and subsequently translated to
the see of Moray in 1411; Thomas Hay, also dean of
Dunbar, and in 1532 appointed a senator of the College
of Justice ; and Dr. Andrew Wood, rector of Dunbar, in
I676 promoted to the bishopric of the Isles, and after-
wards to the see of Caithness, which he held till the
Revolution, are among the distinguished characters con-
nected with the place.
DUNBARNY, a parish, in the county of Perth,
3\ miles (S.) from Perth ; containing, with the villages
of Bridge of Earn and Kintillo, 1104 inhabitants. The
name of this place, variously written in old records, but
generally Dunberny, is supposed to be a compound of
two Celtic terms, dun, a hill, and beam, a breach or
fissure, and to have been applied to the parish in con-
sequence of the church and principal village being
on the estate of Dunbarny, which is marked by a fissure
in a ridge of hills. The church formerly stood a mile
westward of the bridge of Earn ; but this site, which
was near the extremity of the parish, being found in-
convenient, it became necessary to build a new church
in 1684, though the ancient burial-ground is still used
as a cemetery. The church of Kirk-Pottie, about three
miles south from the bridge, and the chapel of Mon-
crieffe, standing 200 or 300 yards south-east from the
present mansion of the name, were both appendages to
the church of Dunbarny ; but the lands of the former
place, with some others, were annexed ecclesiastically in
the year 1652, and afterwards civilly, to the parish of
Dron, on account of their contiguity, and the ruins of the
church have been swept away within the last few years.
The area comprehended within the walls of the chapel
of MoncriefFe, which are still standing embosomed in
thick wood, has long been used as the burying-place of
the ancient family of that name. The forest of Black
Earnside, formerly extending along the banks of the
river Earn, was celebrated for the adventures of Sir
William Wallace, especially in a sanguinary encounter
there maintained with the English ; and at Kilgrasfon,
in the parish, the Covenanters are said to have pitched
their camp in 1645, before the battle of Kilsyth.
The parish, situated in the most beautiful port of
Strathearn, and bounded on the north partly by Perth,
is about four miles in extreme length from east to west,
and one mile and a quarter in average breadth, and
comprises 3236 acres, of which 2640 are under culture,
419 wood, and the remainder water, roads, and waste.
The river Earn passes through in a winding course
from west to east, and the surface is generally level, the
chief exception being the lofty and striking elevation
called MoncriefFe or Moredun hill, which rises 756 feet
above the sea, and commands from its summit one of
the most magnificent views in Scotland. The prospect
comprehends the Carse of Gowric ; the Frith of Tay,
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D U N B
with the town of Dundee ; the beautifully rich and well-
wooded vale of Strathearn, ornamented with the mean-
derings of the river, and with many superior mansions ;
the picturesque forms of the Ochils ; and the fine emi-
nences of Monteith. On the north and west, the moun-
tains of Ben-Voirlich, Benmore, and others are finely
contrasted with the nearer scenery of Perth, the river
Tay, Kinnoull hill, and Kinfauns Castle; and beyond
Crieff appears the obelisk raised to the memory of Sir
David Baird on the hill of Tom-a-chastel, in the parish
of Monivaird, with that of Lord Melville, near Comrie.
The scenery is much indebted for its general beauty to
the Earn, though its stream is here far less clear than
in many other parts, chiefly on account of the mossy
soil through which it passes ; it affords trout, whitling,
pike, and salmon, the last, however, in smaller quanti-
ties than formerly. The soil is exceedingly various,
and comprises almost every description, from the richest
loam to the poorest clay. On the south side of the
river the lands are very flat, and consist of strong wet
clay ; on the north they are loamy ; and towards the
western district, a red, tilly, impervious earth is most
prevalent. Near the bridge of Earn, at some depth
beneath the surface, is a stratum of moss of considerable
thickness, extending for several hundred yards, and
which so impregnates all the water near the village as
to render it unpleasant ; and in this mossy bed large
pieces of timber are found, many of which present
curious specimens of petrifaction. Wheat, oats, barley,
and the usual green crops are raised ; the cultivation of
potatoes, especially the Perthshire red kind, occupies
a large proportion of the ground appropriated to the
green crops, and about 6000 bolls are yearly sent to
London and to Newcastle, in the county of Northumber-
land. The rocks are mostly whiustone and sandstone of
various kinds, of which several quarries are in opera-
tion, and the substrata exhibit specimens of barytes,
jasper, agate, chlorite, and a variety of other minerals.
The district has made mauy important advances in
agriculture, and is also especially worthy of notice for
the rapid increase of its plantations, comprehending all
kinds of trees, which now cover the hill of Moncrieffe,
formerly overgrown with heath and furze, and enrich
the vale of Strathearn in every direction. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £7605.
The house of Moncrieffe, the residence of the ancient
family of that name, descended from Ramerus de Mon-
crieffe, who was keeper of the wardrobe to Alexander I.,
was built in the seventeenth century ; the grounds
are thickly planted with the usual trees, interspersed
with horse-chesnut, silver and spruce firs, lime, plane,
and walnut, and the garden contains, with many other
rare plants, several from the Cape of Good Hope and
New South Wales. The other mansions are those of
Pitkeathly, in the grounds of which is a tulip-tree above
1 00 years old, which still regularly flowers ; and Kil-
graston, a spacious and commodious structure in the
Grecian style, standing in a large well-wooded park,
and containing a valuable collection of pictures, among
which is one of the finest pieces of Guercino, represent-
ing Louis IX. renouncing the crown for a monastic life.
There is also the house of Ballendrick, a convenient
residence with excellent out-buildings. A village named
Dunbarny formerly existed on the road leading from
the property of that name to Bridge of Earn ; but the
Vol. I.— 313
only villages now comprehended in the parish are those
of Kintillo and Bridge of Earn, with a cluster of houses
on the Pitkeathly property, and a number of elegant
cottages recently erected at Craigend, on the Edin-
burgh road, by the Moncrieffe family. With regard
to its ecclesiastical affairs, the parish is in the presby-
tery of Perth and synod of Perth and Stirling, and in
the patronage of Sir Thomas Moncrieffe, Bart. ; the
minister's stipend is £179, with a manse, a vicarage
tithe of forty-four and a-third loads of coal, and a
glebe valued at £19 per annum. The church erected
in 1684 stood a few yards west of the present structure,
which was built in 1787 ; the churchyard was partly
formed in 1821, and finished some years afterwards,
and is altogether artificial, being composed of 2000 cart-
loads of sand brought from the banks of the river. The
members of the Free Church have a place of worship.
The parochial school affords instruction in the ordinary
branches ; the master has a salary of £34, with about
£c25 fees, and also receives, for teaching poor children,
the interest of 500 merks left in 1677 by the Rev.
Robert Young, £5 left in 1743 by John Craigie, Esq.,
and £108 left in 1820 by the Rev. James Beatson. The
late Sir David Moncrieffe bequeathed a sum, as a prize,
to the best classical scholar ; and there are two bur-
saries in the patronage of the family, one for St. Mary's,
and the other for St. Salvator's College, St. Andrew's.
The parish contains a public library comprising about
300 volumes. At a small distance from Moncrieffe
House are the remains of a Druidical temple, and on
the summit of the hill of that name is a circular fosse,
sixteen yards in diameter, in the centre of which stood
Carnac fort, formerly belonging to the Picts. Near Old
Kilgraston is a bulky Spanish chesnut-tree, of thick
foliage, said to have been planted on the day when
Perth capitulated to Oliver Cromwell.
DUNBEATH, a hamlet, in the parish of Latheron,
county of Caithness, 20 miles (S. W.) from Wick ;
containing 40 inhabitants. It is situated on the banks
of the river Dunbeath, which here discharges itself into
the North Sea, and is an excellent fishing-station. An
ancient castle stands on a narrow neck of land, impend-
ing on one side over the sea, and on the other over a
deep chasm into which the tide flows. Near the ham-
let is an entire Picts' house, called the Bourg of Dun-
beath.
DUNBLANE, an ancient
episcopal town and parish,
and now the seat of a pres-
''k bytery, in the county of
SMw-C PERTH ; containing, with
' IjJiS the village of Kinbuck, 3361
iQ§M$ inhabitants, of whom 1911
are in the town, 6 miles
(N.) from Stirling, and 41|
(W. N. W.) from Edinburgh.
This place derives its pame
from an eminence on which
was an ancient convent of
Culdees founded by St. Blaan in the reign of Kenneth
III., and subsequently erected into a bishopric by
David I., who built the cathedral church about the year
1 142. The diocese comprised part of the counties of
Perth and Stirling, and continued to flourish under a
succession of twenty-five Roman Catholic prelates till
2S
Burs.h Seal.
DUNB
DU NB
the Reformation, when its revenues were valued at
£315 in money, exclusively of certain payments in
wheat and other grain. Among the Protestant bishops
who presided over the see after that period, was the
venerable Leighton, who was consecrated in 1662, and
in 1 669 was translated to the archiepiscopal see of Glas-
gow, in which he continued till 16/5. At his death he
bequeathed his valuable library for the use of the clergy
of the diocese of Dunblane ; and he has left behind him
a series of works which display the sound learning he
possessed, and the fervour of his piety. In 1715, a
sanguinary battle took place on the plains of Sheriff
Muir, to the north-east of the town, between the forces
under the command of the Duke of Argyll and those
of the Pretender led by the Earl of Mar, in which
both parties claimed the victory, and quietly left the
field. The town is pleasantly situated on the
road from Stirling to Perth, and on the east bank
of the river Allan, over which is an old narrow
bridge. There are still slight remains of the episcopal
palace to the south of the cathedral, on the margin
of the river, and that part of the town yet retains some
faint resemblance to its ancient character. The build-
ing erected for the library of Archbishop Leighton was
endowed under his will with £300 for keeping it in re-
pair and as a salary for the librarian, and has been
recently fitted up by subscription as a public reading
and news room ; the library has received various addi-
tions by bequests and donations. There are also two
libraries, chiefly of religious books, supported by sub-
scription. Close to the town is a neat lodge, to which,
during the summer months, a supply of mineral water
is brought from a spring called the Well of Dunblane,
about two miles distant. It was proposed to bring the
water into the town by pipes ; but this purpose not
being carried into effect, a village has been built near
the spot, called Bridge of Allan, which is described
under its own head.
The inhabitants are principally engaged in the woollen
manufacture, of which there are three establishments in
the parish; one in the town, in which 215 persons are
employed ; one in the small village of Kinbuck, and the
third at the mill of Keir, each of the two latter afford-
ing occupation to about forty persons. A considerable
number in the town, likewise, are employed in hand-
loom weaving. There is a general post-office, and two
mails pass daily through the place : fairs are held on
the first Wednesday in March, the first Tuesday after
the 26th of May, the 21st of August, and the first
Tuesday in November. The town, being within the
barony of Cromlix, was formerly governed by a bailie,
appointed by the Earl of Kinnoull as superior, and who
held courts in a house a little to the east of the cathe-
dral. The old gaol has been taken down ; and a new
prison, containing eight cells and a house for the gaoler,
has been recently erected for the western district, upon
the site once occupied by the mansion of Viscount Strath-
allan.
The parish, which is situated at the western extre-
mity of the Ochill range, is about nine miles in length,
and nearly six in breadth ; a considerable part consists
of arable land, but the greater portion is moor, heath,
and pasture. The surface is much diversified with hills
of various elevation, of which the declivities slope
gradually towards Strathallan, a fertile vale through
314
which the river Allan flows with a rapid current, between
banks in some parts steep and richly wooded, and pur-
sues a winding course till it falls into the Forth near
Stirling bridge. The rivulet Ardoch intersects the wes-
tern part of the parish, and in both streams are found
trout of good quality. The soil is various, in some
parts fertile, in others affording only indifferent pasture
for sheep and black-cattle ; the farms are generally of
small extent, the buildings substantial and commodious,
and a considerable portion of waste land has been
brought into cultivation. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £14,300. The substratum is mostly red
sandstone; there are pits of shell marl, and lime is ob-
tained with facility at the distance of a few miles, by
the river Forth, and has been plentifully applied to the
improvement of the land. Kilbryde Castle, the seat of
Sir James Campbell, of Aberuchdl, Bart., is an ancient
structure finely situated ; Keir House is a spacious
mansion, and Kippenross a handsome building of modern
erection.
The ecclesiastical affairs are uuder the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Dunblane and synod of
Perth and Stirling. The minister's stipend is £289,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum;
patron, the Crown. The church is the choir of the
ancient cathedral, originally a venerable structure com-
bining elegant details of the Norman, and early and
decorated English styles, 216 feet in length and 58
feet in breadth within the walls, which rise to the height
of fifty feet, and are crowned with battlements. The
tower, 128 feet in height, appears to be of later date
than the rest of the cathedral in the upper part ; but
the three lower of the five stories of which the tower
consists seem to be older, and to have been erected by
the ancient Culdees. The choir is almost entire ; the
lofty vaulted roof is in good preservation, and the
windows, which were of beautiful design, were re-
stored in 1819, and the whole of the interior repaired.
The prebendal stalls, several of which are elaborately
carved, ? are preserved in the avenues leading into
the choir, which contains about 500 sittings, the whole
free. The Episcopalians havejust erected a chapel; the
members of the Free Church have a place of worship,
and there are three meeting-houses for the United
Secession. The parochial school is conducted by a
master who has a salary of £34, with £10. 10. per
annum granted by the crown from the church lands ;
also a house and garden, and fees averaging about £50,
out of which he pays an assistant. There are several
other schools in the parish, including two partly sup-
ported by subscription. Archbishop Leighton be-
queathed £1024 Scotch to the poor of the parish ; and
a sequestered walk in the neighbourhood of the town,
to which that prelate frequently resorted, is still called
the Bishop's Walk. Dunblane gives the title of Viscount
to the Duke of Leeds.
DUNBOG, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county
of Fife, 4 miles (E. by S.) from Newburgh ; containing
219 inhabitants. This place derives its name, of Celtic
origin, and signifying the bog of the hill, from the for-
mer marshy nature of the grounds at the base of the hill
of Dunmore, which extends into the parish. A portion
of the lands anciently formed part of the barony of Balin-
briech, the property of the Rothes family, from whom it
passed into the possession of Lord Home, whose descend-
D U N B
D U N C
ant, in the reign of James IV., sold the lands of Dunbog to
David Bethune, of Creich, in whose family they remained
till the middle of the seventeenth century. In 1694
the estate was sold to Major Balfour, of Starr, by whom
it was forfeited in the rebellion of 1715; it was, how-
ever, restored to his son, from whom it was purchased
in 1766 by the ancestor of the Earl of Zetland, its pre-
sent proprietor. The l'ATUSH is four miles in length,
and varies from half a mile to one mile and a half in
breadth; it comprises 2130 acres, of "which 1S00 are
arable, 300 hill pasture, and thirty woodland and plan-
tations. The surface is broken by two continuous chains
of hills, extending in a nearly parallel direction, and
inclosing between them a beautiful vale of luxuriant
fertility ; the greatest elevation of the hills, however,
does not exceed 500 feet above the sea. The northern
chain, which is a eontinuation of the hill of Dunmore,
now called Norman's Law, is cultivated from the base
to the summit, and commands an extensive and diver-
sified view of the surrounding country, embracing the
windings of the river Tay till it disappears behind
the projection of the hill of Kinnoull, the rich valley
of the Earn, the Carse of Gowrie, and, to the east, the
town of Dundee, and the estuary of the Tay at its influx
into the German Ocean. Towards the north appears
the range of the Sidlaw hills, with the Grampians in
the distance towering above them in majestic grandeur.
The southern chain of hills is barren and uncultivated ;
some few spots have by great perseverance been ren-
dered productive, and are in tillage, but, from the want
of wood and plantations, the general appearance is
dreary and unpromising. The scenery of the lower
lands of the parish has been much improved by the
joint exertions of the proprietors in reclaiming the large
tracts of bog and marsh which formerly abounded, and
which are now in a state of high cultivation, and pro-
duce abundant crops. The river Tay washes a small
portion of the parish.
The soil in the valley is a rich black loam ; in other
parts it is more of a clay, and towards the east light
and dry. The system of agriculture is in a greatly
improved state, and the six-shift rotation plan of hus-
bandry is generally practised ; the crops are, barley,
oats, wheat, potatoes, and turnips. Little attention is
paid to the rearing of cattle or sheep ; of the latter the
few that are fed in the parish are of the Cheviot breed,
and the cattle are mostly of a mixed sort. Great
advances have been made in draining, but the lands
are not inclosed, and the want of fences is seriously
felt. The substratum is principally whinstone, and on
the summits of the hills are found boulders of granite ;
in some parts of the valley the whinstone occasionally
rises to the surface, and in the best cultivated and
richest land are spots comparatively barren. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £2944. The mansion
of Dunbog, the property of Lord Zetland, and at
one time the residence of Cardinal Beaton, was erected
on the site of a religious house called the Preceptory
of Gadvan, occupied as a cell belonging to the abbey
of Balmerino, by a few monks of that establishment,
who employed themselves in the cultivation of the
adjoining lands, which, with the exception of a small
portion now included in the glebe, are laid out in gar-
den and pleasure grounds. Collairney, for many cen-
turies the property of the Barclay family, was pur-
315
chased by the late Dr. Balfour of Fernie : the castle,
formerly the baronial residence of the Barclays, is now
a ruin consisting only of one of the towers, containing
some small apartments with roofs divided into com-
partments, and emblazoned with the arms of various
members of that family. The parish is in the presby-
tery of Cupar and synod of Fife, and in the gift of the
Crown ; the minister's stipend is £204, with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £8. 15. per annum. The church,
situated nearly in the centre of the parish, was erected
in 1803, and is a neat and well-arranged edifice adapted
for a congregation of 200 persons. The parochial school
affords a liberal course of instruction ; the master
has a salary of £34, with £15 fees, and a house and
garden.
DUNCANSBAY, a township, in the parish of Canis-
bay, county of Caithness, 9 miles (N. by E.) from
Keiss ; containing 302 inhabitants. This place, said to
be the Berubium of Ptolemy, is a beautiful promontory,
forming the north-east corner of the island of Great
Britain, of a circular shape, and about two miles in cir-
cumference. Towards the sea, which encompasses two-
thirds of the Head, it is one continued precipice ; and
on the land side is a deep glen or ravine, over which a
small bridge is thrown. The Stacks of Duncansbay
are pyramidical pillars of naked freestone rock, rearing
their fantastic summits to a considerable altitude, like
huge spires of an old cathedral, and are frequented by
innumerable sea-fowl. On the highest part of the
Head are the remains of an ancient watch-tower, whence
is a prospect the most noble and extensive that can
be imagined, embracing the whole Pentland Frith,
the Orkney islands, the German Sea, the Moray Frith,
and the mountains of Banff, Aberdeen, and Elgin. The
whole promontory is covered with excellent pasturage
for sheep, intermixed with short heath. Here was for-
merly a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; the site
is still known by the name of Lady-Kirk, though no re-
mains of the edifice exist.
DUNCOW, a village, in the parish of Kirkmahoe,
county of Dumfries, 1^ mile (N.) from Kirkmahoe;
containing 121 inhabitants. It is seated intermedi-
ately between the Nith and Lochar rivers, and on a
small stream, bearing its own name, that falls into the
former a short distance from the village of Kirkmahoe.
The barony of Duncow once belonged to the family of
Cumin, but was forfeited by them on the accession of
Bruce, and bestowed upon the Boyds ; it subsequently
passed to the Maxwell and Nithsdale families, and re-
mained with the latter until about fifty years ago, when
it was divided among various purchasers. The village
is one of five, and the largest, in the parish. At Dun-
cow mills has lately been erected a manufactory for
coarse woollen-cloth, wrought both by water and steam.
One of the parochial schools is situated here, of which
the master has a free-rent dwelling, and besides his
salary and fees, an annual payment of £5, arising from
a bequest of the late Mr. Allan, of Newlands, for teach-
ing fatherless children.
DUNCRIVIE, a village, in the parish of Arngask,
county of Kinross, 1 mile (S. W.) from Arngask; con-
taining 106 inhabitants. This village is pleasantly situ-
ated on the road from Kinross to Perth, upon rising
ground, near the southern extremity of the parish : it
contains a school.
2 S 2
D U N D
DUND
Seal and Arms.
Don urn Dei, from the
DUNDEE, aroyalburgh,
sea-port town, and parish, in
the county of Forfar ; con-
taining, with part of the vil-
lage of Lochee, 62,794 inha-
bitants, of whom 60,553 are
within the burgh, 14 miles
(S. by W.) from Forfar, and
40| (N. by E.) from Edin-
burgh. This place appears
to have derived its name, in
ancient records Dondie, and
in a charter of Queen Mary
erection of the church in the
twelfth century, by David, Earl of Huntingdon, brother
of King William the Lion, on his landing here in
safety after a severe storm, on his return from the
Holy Land, whither, with 500 of his countrymen, he had
accompanied Richard Cceur de Lion, King of England,
in his third crusade. In fulfilment of his vow to grant
to him the first ground on -which he should land on his
return, the Scottish monarch gave his brother the site
now occupied by Dundee ; and the earl, in gratitude for
his preservation from shipwreck, erected a spacious
church, around which subsequently arose the present
town. There seems to have been a castle or fortress on
the summit of a rock rising precipitously from the river,
of which the origin is altogether unknown, and which,
after the erection of the church, became a royal resi-
dence ; but from the shelter it afforded to the enemy in
the wars with England during the reign of Edward I.,
it was ultimately demolished by the Scots. In the war
consequent on the disputed succession to the Scottish
throne, the town was twice taken by the army of Edward
I., by whom it was plundered and burnt; and in 13S5, it
was again nearly reduced to ashes by the English forces
under the Duke of Lancaster. It suffered a similar de-
vastation from the English army commanded by the
protector, Somerset, in an attempt to compel the re-
gency of Scotland to negotiate a contract of marriage
between the infant princess, Mary, afterwards Queen of
Scots, and the son of Henry VIII., Edward VI. of
England. At the time of the Reformation, the inhabit-
ants, who were zealous for the cause, proceeded to
Edinburgh to assist in besieging the French troops
stationed in Leith ; but they were repulsed with con-
siderable loss, and many of them were killed in endea-
vouring to effect their retreat into the city.
In 1645, the Marquess of Montrose, at the head of
150 cavalry and 600 infantry, sent a summons to the
town to surrender, and on the imprisonment of his mes-
senger by the inhabitants, attacked it simultaneously in
three different quarters, and, after plundering and setting
fire to it on the east and north sides, abandoned the
people to military execution. In 1651, after the battle
of Worcester, the town was besieged by General Monk,
to whom it was compelled to yield, though not without
a valiant resistance. The governor, Lumsden, retired
with part of the garrison to the tower of the church,
which for some time he maintained to the annoyance of
the enemy ; but being at length obliged to submit, he
was, together with all his companions, inhumanly mur-
dered in the churchyard, and his head placed on a spike
on the battlements of the tower. On this occasion, the
town was plundered of every thing of value, and sixty
316
ships in the harbour were laden with the spoils, valued at
£200,000 sterling, and sent off to England ; but in pass-
ing the bar near the mouth of the river, every vessel was
lost. The inhabitants were slaughtered without regard
either to age or sex ; and in the general carnage, which
continued for three days, it is estimated that more than
one-sixth of the inhabitants were put to death. In
1669, the town was so greatly reduced that an act of
parliament, was passed, recommending it to the benevo-
lent consideration of the whole kingdom ; and contribu-
tions were made for its assistance by all the principal
burghs in the country. The various calamities which
the town had experienced were, moreover, subsequently
aggravated by a dearth that lasted for seven years, and
it was not till after the rebellion in 1745 that it began to
recover its former importance, since which time few
events of historical interest have taken place. In 1841,
three of the churches were destroyed by an accidental
fire which originated from a stove in the passage between
the south and the steeple churches, on the morning of
the 3rd of January. The flames extended to the cathe-
dral and the cross church, but the firemen prevented
their communication to the steeple church, which was
saved : the other three, however, about half-past six
o'clock, were one mass of fire ; the cathedral was com-
pletely destroyed, and the south and cross churches
were almost reduced to ruins. In 1844, Her Majesty
Queen Victoria, attended by Prince Albert, arrived in
the bay of Dundee, on Wednesday, the 11th of Septem-
ber, on a visit to Lord Glenlyon, and lauded under a
triumphal arch erected on the occasion. After remain-
ing a short time in the town, the royal visiters proceeded
to Blair-Atholl, where they remained till Tuesday, the
1st of October, when they returned to Dundee, and em-
barked for London.
The town is advantageously situated on the north
bank of the Tay, and consists of numerous streets, of
which several retain the name of the ancient gates in the
old walls, which have been long since removed. The
principal street, called the High-street, in which is the
market-place, is about 120 yards in length, and 100 feet
wide ; the houses are neatly built of stone, and four
stories in height. To the east of this is the Seagate,
one of the oldest streets of the town, a long narrow
thoroughfare leading to the road to Broughty-Ferry.
The Murraygate, containing many well-built houses, and
the Cowgate, adjoining, are connected with the Seagate
by numerous cross streets or lanes. King-street, of
modern erection, contains handsome houses, and the
Nethergate, in the most improved part of the town, is a
spacious street of considerable length, containing many
elegant detached houses. Castle- street, leading from the
south-east angle of the High-street to the harbour, and
Union-street, opening a direct communication between
Craig Pier and the Nethergate, and in the formation of
which many unsightly houses have been rebuilt in an ex-
cellent style, are each spacious and handsome. Among
the many improvements that have been effected of recent
years, is the construction of the splendid Reform-street.
The streets are well paved, and the roads macadamized ;
the town is lighted with gas, from works established by
a company, about a mile to the eastward of High-street,
and the inhabitants are amply supplied with water. The
public subscription library contains a collection of more
than 6000 volumes ; there are also district libraries con-
D UN D
D U N D
nected with the several churches, each of which has
nearly 1000 volumes. A spacious and elegant reading
and news room has lately been opened near the harbour,
called the Exchange Coffee Room, and is supported by
above 400 subscribers ; and an artizans' reading-room,
well supplied with daily journals, has been founded by
members of the Watt Institution, and has 200 sub-
scribers. The Watt Institution was established in 1826
for the delivery of lectures on scientific subjects, and has
now an extensive library, consisting chiefly of works of
art ; a reading-room has also been provided by Messrs.
Brown, proprietors of the spinning-mills, for the use of
their workmen. There is a theatre in Castle- street,
a handsome and well-arranged edifice ; and card and
dancing assemblies are held in the town-hall, and
other public buildings. A horticultural society was
established in 1S24, under the patronage of the neigh-
bouring nobility and gentry ; and a florists' society has
also been formed. The old gardens of Chapelshade, in
the vicinity of the town, have recently been converted
into a cemetery, and tastefully laid out in walks, parterres,
and shrubberies, with appropriate embellishments ; and
to the north, a public bleach-green, four acres in extent,
and containing the requisite apparatus for family washing,
has been inclosed, and planted with ornamental shrubs.
The principal trade pursued is the linen manufac-
ture, which was introduced at an early period, and, till
within the last forty years, was carried on entirely by
hand, both in spinning the yarn and weaving the cloth,
to a very considerable extent for the supply of the
neighbourhood, and also for exportation. Since the
introduction of machinery and the application of steam,
however, it has increased to an amazing amount. In
1811 four spinning- mills had been erected, driven by
steam-engines of the aggregate power of sixty-one
horses, consuming 46S tons of flax annually, and pro-
ducing 224,600 spindles of yarn ; and the whole of the
capital invested amounted to £22,000. At present there
are more than thirty-six spinning-mills, driven by steam-
engines of the aggregate power of 600 horses, consum-
ing a vast quantity of flax, and producing annually
7,500,000 spindles of yarn; and the capital invested is
about £240,000. In these mills above 3000 persons are
regularly employed, of whom a large proportion are
women and children, and the amount of wages annually
paid is £160,000. The flax is chiefly imported from
Russia, Brabant, Holland, and Prussia, and the quan-
tity landed at Dundee annually during the ten years
ending 1S44 averaged 2S.992 tons ; the goods manu-
factured are, Osnaburghs, sheetings, sailcloth, sack-
ing, and bagging, and various other articles, of which
large quantities are exported to the West Indies, North
and South America, and to various ports on the con-
tinent. The tanning of leather, which was formerly
carried on to a very considerable extent, has for some
years been rapidly diminishing, and is now almost
extinct ; but the manufacture of ropes and cordage
is in a flourishing state. The trade of the port con-
sists chiefly in the exportation of grain and agricul-
tural produce, and the different articles of the linen
manufacture ; and in the importation of flax, hemp,
lime, coal, ashes, timber, iron, tar, whale-blubber, tal-
low, and other merchandise. The number of vessels
registered as belonging to the port in 1S44 was 326, of
.the aggregate burthen of 50,901 tons j the number of
317
vessels that entered inwards from foreign ports in a
late year was 307, of which 253 were British and 54
foreign ; and the amount of duties paid at the custom-
house in 1843 was £40,471. The coasting- trade is
very extensive, and it appears that in one year 1858
vessels entered inwards, and 1017 cleared outwards.
The harbour, previously to the year 1815, was
small ; but in that year, an act for its improvement and
for placing it under the management of commissioners
was obtained, and before 1S33 the sum of £242,000
was expended in the construction of two capacious
wet-docks, of nearly eleven acres in extent, andcommenc-
ing a third of much more ample dimensions. A large
tide harbour was also formed, with extensive quays,
as well as a graving-dock, capable of receiving three
of the largest class of merchant ships, with commo-
dious yards for building and repairing vessels. A sub-
stantial low-water pier has since been erected on the
Craig, the usual landing-place from Newport, in Fife-
shire, between which place and Dundee hourly inter-
course by steamers is maintained. A stationary light,
too, has been placed on the Craig pier, on the western
side of the harbour, and also on the pier at Newport ;
there is likewise a light exhibited on the east pier, and
another on the middle pier, at the entrance to the
docks. A grant of £S000 was lately made by govern-
ment for the erection of a new custom-house at the
north-east angle of King William's dock ; it is a hand-
some building in the Grecian style, and contains also
accommodation for transacting the business of the har-
bour commissioners and of the excise-office. Prior
to 1834, the Dundee, Perth, and London Shipping Com-
pany employed eight smacks in the London trade, hav-
ing an aggregate burthen of 991 tons ; also three vessels
in the Glasgow trade, four in the Liverpool, and four in
the Perth, the tonnage of these eleven amounting to
6/3. In that year, however, the company built two
powerful steamers, the Dundee and Perth, of 300-horse
power each, and subsequently added a third, the London,
of 350-horse power. Besides these, they employ four
schooners in the London trade, seven sloops in the
Glasgow, four in the Leith, and three lighters and a
steam-tug in the Perth trade ; and the entire tonnage of
the steamers and sailing-vessels belonging to the com-
pany now amounts to 2686. Two steamers, also, are
employed by other parties, in the Dundee and Leith
trade. There are likewise several joint-stock whale-
fishing companies, employing five ships, averaging 325
tons' burthen each.
The town was originally erected into a royal burgh
by charter of William the Lion, and its privileges as
such were confirmed by charter of Robert Bruce, and by
one of Charles I. of England in 1641. In consequence of
a dispute in the election of a dean of guild, the burgh
was disfranchised in 1S30, and seven members were
appointed by the court of session to manage the inter-
ests of the town; but in 1S31 the king, in answer to
a petition, confirmed an election of the magistrates and
council made by the burgesses and heritors ; and in the
2nd of William IV. an act was passed, extending the
royalty of the burgh and the jurisdiction of the magis-
trates. Under these regulations, the government is
vested in a provost, four bailies, a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and fourteen other councillors, elected under
the regulations of the general Municipal act, with the
D U ND
DUND
exception of the dean of guild, -who is chosen by
the guild brethren. Of the 'councillors, seven retire
from office annually. There are nine incorporated
guilds, the bakers, shoemakers, glovers, tailors, bon-
net-makers, butchers, hammermen, weavers, and dyers ;
and three united trades, the masons, wrights, and sla-
ters. The magistrates have jurisdiction over the whole
of the extended royalty, which is co-extensive with the
parliamentary boundary, and hold courts weekly on
Wednesday, for the recovery of debts to any amount,
in which the bailies preside for one month each in
rotation ■ the more important criminal cases, however,
are tried by the sheriff-substitute, who is resident in
the town, and those of less importance are disposed of
in the police court. The sheriff-substitute also holds a
court weekly, during the session, for the recovery of
debts not exceeding £S. 6. S. ; and a court for the reco-
very of small debts is held by the magistrates every
alternate week. There is a dean-of-guild court as occa-
sion requires, in which the clerk of the guildry acts as
assessor. Under the Police act the town is divided
into eleven wards, to each of which are appointed two
general and two resident commissioners ; and there is
also a harbour police. Previously to the Reform act the
burgh was associated with those of Perth, Cupar of
Fife, St. Andrew's, and Forfar, in returning a member
to the imperial parliament ; since that time it has
elected a member of its own, and the number of qua-
lified voters is about 2740.
The old Town-hall, erected in 1734, on the site of
the ancient church of St. Clement, after a design by
Mr. Adam, is a spacious and handsome structure with
a tower and spire rising to the height of 100 feet; in
front is a piazza, behind which are shops and public
offices. On the first floor are two spacious halls, in
one of which, embellished with a portrait of Lord Pan-
mure, the corporation hold meetings for the transaction
of public business, and in the other the several courts
of the magistrates and sheriff are held, and the meet-
ings of the guildry. There are also four arched rooms
for the accommodation of the town-clerks and others
connected with the courts, and for the preservation of
the public records ; and above these is the old town
gaol, consisting of five apartments, each twenty-four
feet in length and twelve feet wide, of which those in
front were used for debtors, and the others for crimi-
nals. New public buildings, however, of very hand-
some construction, have been recently erected by the
burgh, at a considerable expense, and containing ample
accommodation for the confinement of prisoners. The
Trades' Hall, situated at the east end of the market-
place, an elegant building of the Ionic order, with a
lantern and cupola rising from the centre of the roof,
was erected by the nine incorporated trades in 1770,
and contains on the first floor a handsome hall, fifty
feet in length and twenty-five feet wide, for holding the
general meetings, and nine other apartments for the
private meetings of each particular trade. The build-
ing appropriated as an Exchange is a handsome struc-
ture in the Grecian style, erected by a company of sub-
scribers, at an expense of £10,000, and having on the
ground-floor a range of offices and shops, and on the
first floor an elegant hall, now used as a reading and
news room, to which reference has been already made.
There are several banking establishments, of which the
318
principal are, the Dundee, the Union, and the Eastern
banks, and four branches of the Edinburgh bank : the
Forfarshire and Perthshire Insurance Company, the
Marine Insurance Company, the Forfarshire Chamber
of Commerce, and two associations of underwriters have
been also established in the town. The markets are on
Tuesday and Friday, and Dundee being the great mart
for a large surrounding district, are numerously at-
tended. On the Tuesday, manufactured \ goods and
various kinds of merchandise and provisions are ex-
posed to sale in great profusion ■ and on the Friday, in
addition to these, there is an abundant supply of grain.
Facilities of communication, besides those by sea, are
afforded by excellent roads, of which the coast road to
Aberdeen passes through the town : there are turn-
pike-roads to Cupar-Angus, Forfar, Brechin, and Glas-
gow, and by branch roads through Frfeshire to Edin-
burgh. The Dundee and Newtyle railway was com-
menced in 1826, and completed in 1832, at a cost of
£50,000 ; it is about eleven miles in length. The line
from the north of the town ascends an inclined plane
of about 800 yards in length, from the summit of which
it passes through a tunnel in the Law of Dundee, and
beyond this are two more inclined planes before it reaches
Newtyle; the summit level is 500 feet, and the car-
riages are drawn up the ascents by fixed, and on the
other parts of the line by locomotive, engines. Branches
have been opened to Cupar-Angus and Glammis, under
acts of parliament passed in 1835, and the whole cost
is estimated at £90,000. The Dundee and Arbroath
railway was commenced in 1836, by a company em-
powered to raise a capital of £100,000, and completed
in 1840 : the line, which is almost seventeen miles in
length, nearly level throughout, and passes close to
the shore, is wrought by locomotive-engines.
The parish is nearly six miles in length, from east
to west, and varies greatly in breadth, comprising an
area of about 4200 acres, of which 254 are woodland
and plantations, 135 waste, and the remainder arable
and pasture. The surface is diversified, rising into hills
of considerable elevation, of which the Law, and the
hill of Balgay, are the most conspicuous ; the soil to the
west of the town is light and shallow, to the north and
east of richer quality, and along the bank of the Tay
luxuriantly fertile. The crops are, oats, barley, wheat,
turnips, and potatoes, with the various grasses ; the
system of husbandry is advanced, and the lands are in.
a high state of cultivation. The farm-houses are gene-
rally of stone, and roofed with slate ; the lands are
inclosed partly with stone dykes, and partly with
hedges of thorn. The only cattle pastured are milch-
cows on the several farms. The soil is well adapted for
fruit of every kind, and considerable portions of the
land near the town are laid down in gardens, and also
in nursery-grounds. The plantations are, ash, plane,
beech, a few elms, and larch and Scotch fir, which are
in a thriving state, but are rather ornamental than
profitable. The principal substrata are, sandstone,
amygdaloid alternated with trap, and red porphyry.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £118,326.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Dundee and synod of
Angus and Mearns. The parish was in 1834 separated,
by act of the presbytery, into the districts of St. Mary,
St. Paul, the Grey Friars, St. John, St. Clement, St.
D U N D
D UN D
David, St. Andrew, and Chapelshade, each of which was
erected into a quoad sacra parish ; and in 1836, by
the same authority, part of the districts of St.. John and
St. David was formed into the additional quoad sacra
parish of St. Peter. These arrangements, however, in
common with similar arrangements in other parts of the
country, were afterwards abrogated. The parish of St.
Mary comprised, according to the plans just referred to,
the rural district of the parish of Dundee, and part of the
suburbs of the town ; the minister's stipend is £313. 6.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £25 per annum ;
patrons, the Town Council. The Old and South churches,
partly used by the inhabitants of St. Mary's, have since
the fire been restored, and contain together about 2450
sittings, of which 1350 are in the latter. The parish
of St. Paul, wholly within the town, comprised an
extent of about half a mile square ; the stipend is
£274. 17- ; patrons, the Town Council. The congrega-
tion assemble alternately in the Old and South churches.
The parish of the Grey Friars comprised about one-eighth
part of the town and suburbs ; the minister's stipend
is £275. 2. ; patrons, the Town Council. Divine ser-
vice is performed in the Old and South churches.
Connected with the Established Church is a Gaelic
chapel, erected within the last few years, at a cost of
£2400, and containing 100 sittings : the minister has a
stipend of £110, of which £10 are granted by the
Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and the
remainder derived from seat -rents ; patrons, the male
communicants. The parish of St. John was about half
a mile in length, and of nearly equal breadth ; the sti-
pend is £275 ; patrons, the Town Council. The church,
called the Cross church, containing about 1037 sittings,
was destroyed in 1S41 by the fire, but has been re-
stored. The parish of St. Clement was three-quarters of
a mile in length, and one- quarter of a mile in breadth ;
the minister's stipend is £300 ; patrons, the Council.
The church, called the Steeple church, was rebuilt in
1782, and contains 1463 sittings. The parish of St.
David was about two miles in length, and three-quarters
of a mile in breadth ; the stipend is £275 ; patrons, the
Council. The church was built in 1S00, at a cost of
£2220, and has 160S sittings. The parish of St. Andrew
was one mile and three-quarters in length, and three-
quarters of a mile in breadth; the stipend is £180;
patrons, the male communicants. The church was
built in 1774, at a cost of £3000, raised by subscription,
and contains 1486 sittings : an additional church has
been recently erected, by subscription, at an expense of
nearly £2000, for 1100 persons. The parish of Chapel-
shade comprised nearly two square miles ; the stipend
is £150, derived from seat-rents ; patrons, the male
communicants. The church, built originally as a Relief
chapel in 1789, was united to the Established Church
in 1791 .; it was enlarged in 1S30, at an expense of
£880, and contains 1280 sittings. The parish of St.
Peter, comprising a portion of the parishes of St. John
and St. David, separated by the presbytery in 1836, was
about a mile and a half in length, and one-quarter of
a mile in breadth ; the minister's stipend is £220, with
an allowance of £12 for communion elements; patrons,
the male communicants. The church, which contains
1120 sittings, was erected in 1836, at a cost of £2400,
of which £250 were granted by the General Assembly,
and the remainder raised by subscription. There are
319
also places of worship in Dundee for members of the
Free Church, the United Associate Secession, Original
Seceders, Baptists, Baptist-Bereans, and Psedobaptist-
Bereans, Original Burghers, Episcopalians, the Society
of Friends, Glassites, United Christians, "the Holy
Catholic and Apostolic Church," Old Scotch Independ-
ents, the New Jerusalem Church, Primitive and United
Methodists, Reformed Presbyterians, the Relief Church,
Wesleyans, Roman Catholics, and Unitarians.
The grammar school is under the care of two clas-
sical masters, who have each a salary of £50, and the
fees annually produce to each about £60 ; it is well
conducted and numerously attended. The English
school has also two masters, one for reading and English
grammar, who has a salary of £30, and one for writing
and arithmetic, with a salary of £20, in addition to
which each master derives about £70 from fees. The
Sessional school, recently established, is attended by
about 500 children, and conducted by a master who has
a salary of £80 per annum ; the building was erected
on a site given by the town council. The Dundee
Academy, for which a spacious and handsome building
has been erected in the centre of the town, at a cost of
£S000, raised chiefly by subscription, is under the pa-
tronage of fifteen directors, of whom five are appointed
by the town council and ten by the subscribers. This
institution is endowed with £6000, bequeathed by
Messrs. Webster, of London, who were natives of the
town. The course of studies is very complete, and is
superintended by two classical masters ; a master for
the modern languages ; one for moral philosophy, nau-
tical astronomy, and logic ; a master for natural philo-
sophy, mathematics, and chemistry ; one for drawing
and painting ; one for English reading, grammar, and
geography, and a master for writing and arithmetic.
There are numerous other schools in the town and
neighbourhood, in which it is calculated that about
4000 children receive instruction. Among the many
charitable institutions of the town are, the ancient Hos-
pital, from the revenues of which £500 are annually
distributed among poor citizens ; the Royal Infirmary,
established in 1798, and supported by subscription,
which receives more than thirty in-patients, and af-
fords medical attendance and medicines to the poor at
their own dwellings ; the Royal LunaticAsylum, erected
in 1812, and supported by subscription for the recep-
tion of 120 patients ; the Royal Orphan Institution,
established in 1815 ; the Indigent-Sick Society, distri-
buting annually £160 ; the Medical and Surgical Dis-
pensary ; the Institutions for the Lame and Blind ; the
Seamen's Friend Society, dispensing yearly £1500; the
Female Society, £190, and the Clothing Society, dis-
tributing £40. These and various other benevolent
institutions collectively dispense, in aid of the distressed
and indigent, nearly £4000 annually, exclusively of
numerous bequests by charitable individuals for similar
purposes.
There are still some remains of the ancient palace
called Whitehall, the occasional residence of the Scottish
monarchs previously to the reign of James VI., and
subsequently of Charles II., who lodged in it for some
time before the battle of Worcester. The site of the
Franciscan convent founded by Devorgilla, mother of
John Baliol, and which was destroyed at the Reforma-
tion, was, together with the adjacent lands, granted by
D UND
DU ND
Mary, Queen of Scots, to the town for a burial-place.
In clearing some ground for the formation of a new
street in 1831, the vestiges of an ancient mint, supposed
to have been erected by Robert Bruce, were discovered ;
and the smelting furnace was found nearly entire. At
the western extremity of High-street, is an ancient
house in which Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch and Mon-
mouth, was born, during the residence of her parents
here, who had been driven from the castle of Dalkeith
by the commissioners of Cromwell ; it was also inha-
bited by General Monk after he had reduced the town.
The castle of Dudhope, once the seat of the Scrimgeours,
hereditary constables of Dundee, has been converted
into barracks for infantry. There are no remains of the
castle of Dundee, which occupied the summit of a steep
rock still called Castle Hill. Among the distinguished
characters connected with the town, have been, Alexander
Scrimgeour, one of the valiant companions of Wallace,
by whom he was made constable of Dundee Castle ; Sir
John Scrimgeour, afterwards Viscount Dudhope, a zealous
adherent of Charles I., who fell in the battle of Mar-
ston-Moor, and whose son was created Earl of Dundee ;
the celebrated historian, Hector Boece ; the late Admiral
Duncan, who obtained the victory over the Dutch fleet
off Camperdown in 17975 upon which he was created
Viscount Camperdown ; Sir James Ivory, one of the pro-
fessors in the military college of Sandhurst ; and the
late Rev. Dr. Small, for many years minister of the
parish, and author of a work on astronomy called Kepler's
Discoveries.
DUNDONALD, a parish, in the district of Kyle,
county of Ayr, 5 miles (S. W.) from Kilmarnock ; con-
taining, with the late quoad sacra parishes of Fullarton
and Troon, 67 16 inhabitants, of whom 345 are in the
village of Dundonald. This place derives its name
from the situation of its ancient castle on the summit
of a hill near the village. Here Robert II., King of
Scotland, and the first of the Stuarts, occasionally re-
sided till his decease in 1390, and the castle was fre-
quently the residence also of many of his successors,
but was, with the lands attached to it, granted by
James V. to a descendant of the Wallace family, by
whom it was sold in 1638 to Sir William Cochrane,
ancestor of the present Earl of Dundonald. The lands
in 1726 passed to the Montgomerie family, who are still
proprietors ; but the site and the remains of the ancient-
castle, from which his lordship takes his title, are re-
served by the earl. The parish is bounded on the
north by the river Irvine, and on the west by the Frith
of Clyde ; it is about eight miles in length, and from
five to six in breadth, comprising 11,000 acres, of which
about 2500 are waste, and the greater portion of the
rest in culture. The surface along the sea-coast and
the banks of the river is nearly level, with some gentle
undulations towards the centre, where it rises into hills
of moderate elevation, of which the highest, called the
Clavin hills, do not exceed 400 feet in height, command-
ing, however, from their summits a prospect embracing
fourteen different counties. With the exception of the
Irvine, there are no rivers of any importance in the
parish, but springs of excellent water are found in great
profusion.
The soil embraces almost every variety, and the arable
lands are under excellent cultivation ; the crops include
oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips. Wheat, for the
320
growth of which the soil is well adapted, is raised in
large quantities; though, from the moisture of the cli-
mate, and the consequent lateness of the harvest, it was
not long ago comparatively but little cultivated. The sys-
tem of husbandry is good, and considerable tracts of waste
land have been reclaimed by tile-draining, first intro-
duced into the parish by the Duke of Portland. The
farm-buildings are generally commodious and substan-
tial ; the lands are well inclosed, partly with hedge rows
and partly with stone dykes, and the more recent im-
provements in the construction of agricultural imple-
ments have been adopted. Much attention is paid to
the management of the dairy-farms, and large quantities
of the produce are sent to Ayr and Glasgow ; the cattle
are all of the Ayrshire breed. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £23,496. There are still some
remains of natural wood, consisting of birch, hazel,
and mountain-ash, but none of the trees are remark-
able for size : the plantations, though not extensive,
are generally in a thriving state. The principal sub-
strata are freestone and coal. The freestone is quarried
at Craiksland and Collennan : that at the former place,
which is of fine texture and durable quality, and may
be raised in masses of any size, is sent chiefly to Ireland,
and a steam-engine for sawing it into slabs has been
erected at the quarry. The coal is wrought for the
supply of the neighbourhood, and for exportation, at
Shewalton, and also at Old Rome, on the lands of Fairlie.
At the former the coal occurs in two seams, of which
the lower, at a depjth of thirty-five fathoms, is thirty-four
inches, and the upper forty-three inches thick ; and
at the latter place are four different seams, varying
from two feet eight inches to six feet in thickness.
The mansion-houses are, Auchan House, built by the
Earl of Dundonald, and now nearly in ruins, and the
property of Lady Mary Montgomerie, by whose servants
it is chiefly inhabited ; and Fullarton, Fairlie, Shewal-
ton, Newfield, Hillhouse, and Curreath, which are all
handsome and comparatively modern buildings. The
village of Dundonald is beautifully situated near the
remains of the ancient castle, and has a pleasingly
rural aspect. Letters were formerly delivered here by a
runner from the Troon office, who passed daily through
the village ; but Dundonald has now a post of its
own ; and facility of communication is afforded by the
turnpike-road to Dalmellington, and by several other
roads which branch off in various directions. A mart is
held in May, chiefly remarkable for a cattle-show. The
village of Shewalton, on the bank of the river Irvine,
contains 2 1 9, and that of Old Rome, on the same river,
to the east, contains 257 inhabitants. A tram-road
from Kilmarnock to Troon, constructed by the Duke of
Portland in IS 10, for the conveyance of coal to the port,
and the Glasgow and Ayr railway along the sea-coast,
completed in 1840, both pass through the parish, and
afford great facilities.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr. The minister's stipend is £256, with a
manse and glebe, valued together at about £40 per
annum ; patron, Lady Mary Montgomerie. The church,
erected in 1803, is a neat structure situated in the
village, and containing 630 sittings. Churches have
been erected at Fullarton and Troon ; and there is
a place of worship for members of the Free Church.
D U ND
DUNF
The parochial school is attended by about eighty
children; the master has a salary of £28. 18., with a
house and garden, and the fees average £40. There are
schools also at Fullarton and Troon, and various Sab-
bath schools ; and a parochial library, established in
1836, and now containing 150 volumes, is supported by
subscription. Dr. James McAdam, a native of the
parish, bequeathed £1000, of which he appropriated the
interest to be distributed in blankets and coal to the
poor ; and the Misses Campbell, of Curreath, left £90,
to be distributed annually to six persons not receiving
parochial relief. The remains of the ancient castle of
Dundonald consist of a quadrangular range of buildings,
two stories in height, 113 feet in length and forty feet
in breadth, and in a greatly dilapidated condition ; on
the western wall are the arms of the Stuarts, much
obliterated. Previously to the Reformation it contained
a chapel dedicated to St. Ninian, of which no vestiges
are now to be traced. On the farm of Barassie was
found, while constructing the line of the railway, an
urn containing calcined bones, and which appeared to
be rather of British than Roman character ; and on the
heights above the farm of Harpercroft are two ancient
camps, of which the larger is defended by a circular
embankment of earth and stones, inclosing an area of
ten acres, having in the centre a similar inclosure of
one acre in extent. The construction of these camps is
popularly ascribed to the Romans ; but it is not with
certainty ascertained by whom they were formed.
DUNDRENNAN, a village, in the parish of Rer-
■wick, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 4 miles (E. S. E.)
from Kirkcudbright ; containing 202 inhabitants. This
place, which is situated in a beautiful valley, about a
mile and a half from the north-western shore of Solway
Frith, is celebrated for its ancient abbey, founded in U42
by Fergus, lord of Galloway, for monks of the Cister-
cian order whom he brought from Rivaulx, in the county
of York. The establishment, of which Sylvanus was
the first abbot, continued to flourish under his suc-
cessors till the Reformation ; and after its dissolution
in 1561, its revenues, amounting to £500, were, upon
the death of the last abbot, annexed by James VI. to
his royal chapel of Stirling. During the incumbency of
the last abbot (Edward Maxwell, son of Lord John
Herries), Mary, Queen of Scots, on her flight from the
disastrous battle of Langside, arrived at this place,
where she spent the night previous to her embarkation
for England, for which she sailed from a small creek
surrounded by precipitous cliffs, and since called Port-
Mary in commemoration of the event. The village has
a pleasingly rural appearance ; the houses are neatly
built, and ornamented with trees of ancient growth, and
there are two comfortable inns for the reception of
visiters. In the vicinity is the elegant mansion of Dun-
dreiinan, the seat of the Maitland family ; and the place
derives much interest from the venerable ruins of the
abbey, and the beauty and variety of the surrounding
scenery.
The ruins are situated on a gentle acclivity rising
from a narrow vale, through which flows the streamlet
called Abbey Burn, and consist chiefly of parts of the con-
ventual church, originally a stately cruciform structure
in the early English style, with a central tower 200 feet
in height. Several of the monuments are still remain-
ing, though in a greatly dilapidated condition. Among
Vol. I. — 321
these is the tomb of Alan, lord of Galloway, who was
interred in the church in 1233, and whose recumbent
effigy in armour, and cross-legged, is sculptured in high
relief, but much mutilated ; and the tomb of one of the
abbots in his canonicals is in tolerable preservation,
though the inscription is totally obliterated. For the
preservation of these remains, Mr. Maitland some years
since presented a memorial to the commissioners of
woods and forests, proposing to relinquish all his right
of property in the abbey, on condition of its receiving
from the crown protection from further dilapidation.
In accordance with this proposal, the remains have been
secured from decay, and, with the surrounding burial-
ground, inclosed with a high fence of stone. The pave-
ments of the church have been cleared from all accu-
mulations of rubbish, and reduced to their ancient level;
and many of the monuments, and of the beautifully
clustered columns and gracefully pointed arches, have
been restored. The whole, therefore, now exhibits one
of the best preserved and most interesting relics of
monastic architecture in the kingdom.
DUNDYVAN and NEW DUNDYVAN, villages, in
the parish of Old Monkland, Middle ward of the county
of Lanark, 1| mile (W. S. W.) from Airdrie ; containing,
the one 12y8, and the other 2202 inhabitants. These
are two among numerous villages which have lately and
rapidly sprung up in connexion with the extensive coal-
mines and iron and other works of this district, so distin-
guished for its mineral wealth and manufacturing import-
ance. They lie on the high road from Airdrie to Glasgow,
and are the seats of considerable iron establishments,
which employ nearly the whole of the male population.
The ironstone wrought at the furnaces here, of which there
are several, is of the most valuable kind, some of it
yielding from thirty to forty per cent of iron, and is
usually denominated the "black band," and chiefly pro-
duced from the lands of Rochsilloch, the property of
Sir William Alexander. About a mile south-east of
Dundyvan are the celebrated Calder iron-works, and at
the same distance westward are. the Drumpellier coal-
mines ; and all around, pits and quarries are in full
operation.
DUNFERMLINE, a
royal burgh, and parish, in
the district of Dunfermline,
county of Fife; including
the villages of Charlestown,
Crossford, Halbeath, Lime-
kilns, Mastertown, Patiemuir,
North Queensferry, and part
of Crossgates; and containing
20,217 inhabitants, of whom
7S65 are within the burgh,
12 miles (W. by S.) from Kirk-
caldy, and 16 (N. W.) from
Edinburgh. This place, which is of great antiquity, is
supposed to have derived its name, signifying in the
Gaelic language "the castle on the winding stream," or
" the watch-tower upon the stream," from the erection
of a castle on the summit of a peninsulated eminence
in the glen of Pittencrieff, by Malcolm Canmore, about
the year 1056. Of this castle only some small frag-
ments are now remaining ; but it appears, from the
traces of foundations, to have been a quadrilateral
structure, about sixty feet in length, and fifty feet in
2 T
mm
Burgh Seal.
D U N F
D UN F
breadth, of great strength, and having an elevation of
seventy feet above the level of the rivulet flowing through
the glen. Malcolm, on the murder of his father Duncan
by the usurper Macbeth, took refuge in England, where
he was favourably received at the court of Edward the
Confessor, till, on the death of Macbeth, slain by Macduff
at the battle of Dunsinane, he ascended the throne of
his ancestors. On the conquest of England by the Duke
of Normandy in 1066, Edgar Atheling, heir to the crown
of England, with his mother, and sisters Margaret and
Catherine, attended by a numerous retinue of Saxon
nobles, were, on their voyage to Hungary, driven by
tempestuous weather into a bay in the north of the Frith
of Forth, which has since retained the appellation of St.
Margaret's Hope. Malcolm, on hearing of their landing,
visited the party, and conducted them in person to his
castle, where they were hospitably entertained ; and soon
after, Margaret, with whom, during his residence in
England, he had formed a contract of marriage, became
Queen of Scotland. At a short distance to the south-
east of Malcolm's castle, a more sumptuous palace was
subsequently erected, though the exact date is unknown ;
but of this once magnificent structure, the residence for
many generations of the Scottish kings, and the birth-
place of several of them, only a comparatively small
portion remains, in which is seen the chimney-place of
the apartment where Charles I. was born. Adjoining
the palace was the Queen's House, erected for her pri-
vate residence by Anne of Denmark, queen of James VI.,
to whom he had granted on the morning after his mar-
riage the lordship of Dunfermline. This mansion was
in good repair for many years after the palace was in
ruins, but falling into neglect, was for some time occu-
pied as a school, subsequently as a woollen factory, and
in 1797, having become ruinous, was entirely removed.
A priory for Benedictine monks was founded by Mal-
colm, which, being in an unfinished state, was, after his
death at the siege of Alnwick, in Northumberland, com-
pleted by his son Alexander I., and dedicated to the
Holy Trinity and St. Margaret, King Malcolm's queen,
whose numerous virtues obtained for her the distinction
of canonization. The institution was governed by a
prior till the reign of David I., who raised it to the
dignity of a mitred abbey, and in 1124 placed in it thir-
teen additional monks from Canterbury, greatly extended
the buildings, and endowed it with ample possessions in
various parts of the kingdom. It continued to flourish,
and became one of the most important and richest esta-
blishments in Scotland. In 1291, Edward I. of England
visited Dunfermline, where he summoned the Scottish
nobility to do homage for their lands as vassals to his
crown : in 1296, he made a tour for twenty- one weeks
through different parts of Scotland, in which he came to
this town ; and on his return to England, he took with
him the inauguration stone from the abbey of Scone,
which he deposited in the church of Westminster, in
London. In 1303, Edward visited Dunfermline on his
route from Kinross, and took up his residence in the
abbey, where he was joined by his queen and a party
of nobility, and remained from December till March.
While here he was employed in receiving the submission
of such of the Scottish nobles as had not on his former
visit done him homage for their possessions ; and on his
departure for England his soldiers set fire to the abbey,
which was reduced to little more than a heap of ruins,
the church only, and a few cells of the monks, being
spared. In this abbey, of which the buildings were so
extensive, the Scottish nobility were accustomed to
hold their meetings, during the wars of Bruce and Baliol,
for rescuing their country from the English yoke ; and
to this circumstance is attributed its desolation by the
forces of Edward.
David II., son of Robert Bruce, was born at the
palace of Dunfermline on the 4th of March, 1323 ; and
during that prince's long minority, Edward Baliol, when
contending for the crown of Scotland, in 1332, after
having landed his army at Kinghorn, came to this place,
where he found a seasonable supply of arms and provi-
sions laid up by order of Regent Randolph. In 1335, a
parliament was held here, at which Sir Andrew Murray
was made regent of the kingdom in place of Randolph,
deceased ; but, having gone to visit his estates in the
north, in 1338, he died while on his journey, and, after
being interred in the chapel of Rosemarkie, his remains
were removed to this town, and deposited with those of
Bruce and Randolph. In 13S5, part of a large body of
French auxiliaries who, on the invitation of Robert II.,
had come to that monarch's assistance against the
English, were quartered at this place, which was visited
soon afterwards by Richard II. of England, who, having
burnt Edinburgh, advanced to Dunfermline, and lodged
in the abbey, which, upon his departure, was burnt by
the English army, together with the town. In 1441,
James, son of Sir Robert Bruce of Clackmannan, was
consecrated Bishop of Dunkeld in the abbey church
here, and in the same year was also made chancellor of
Scotland. The queen of James IV. made a short stay
at Dunfermline in 1512; and in 1515, the abbot of
Kelso and other friends of Lord Home were imprisoned
in the town by order of the Duke of Albany, then
regent. Mary, Queen of Scots, visited Dunfermline in
her route to Dysart and St. Andrew's, in 1561 ; and in
1581, James VI. subscribed the covenant at this place.
Charles I., afterwards king of England, was born in the
palace on the 19th of November, 1600; and in 1633,
in his progress through Scotland, he passed a short time
at Dunfermline, on which occasion he created Sir
Robert Ker earl of Ancrum, and conferred the honour
of knighthood on several persons. In the year 1624,
the town was nearly destroyed by an accidental fire.
In 1650 Charles II. visited the town, where he sub-
scribed the confession of faith called the " Dunfermline
Declaration;" and in the following year a battle was
fought near Pitreavie House between the forces of Crom-
well and the royalist army, in which the latter sustained
considerable loss. In 1715, about a month before the
battle of Sheriffmuir, a detachment of the Pretender's
army, consisting of about 300 highlanders and eighty
horse, under the Marquess of Huntly, was surprised
and defeated, with the loss of several killed and many
taken prisoners, by the forces under colonel, after-
wards Lord, Cathcart.
The town is pleasantly situated on an eminence
stretching from east to west, and gradually rising from
the south to an elevation of 356 feet above the level of
the sea ; it consists of one principal street, intersected at
right angles by several smaller streets from north to
south, of which those in the latter direction have a con-
siderable declivity. The principal street was, in 1770
extended towards the west by the erection of a bridge
DUN F
DUNF
across the glen of Pittencrieff, above which the pro-
prietor, George Chalmers, Esq., raised a mound whereon
there has been built, in a line with the High-street, a
handsome range of houses with gardens attached to
them, called Bridge-street. The houses in the chief
streets are all substantial and well built. In several
parts of the town are numerous villas and many private
mansions surrounded with pleasure-grounds, which give
to the place a somewhat rural appearance; and the tower
and spires of the ancient abbey and public buildings,
combining with other features, have a strikingly interest-
ing aspect. Great additions to the town, and consider-
able improvements, have been recently made ; the abbey
park has been thrown open for building, and many hand-
some houses with extensive gardens have been erected.
The streets are paved, and lighted with gas by a com-
pany established in 1828, who erected works in the
lower part of the town at an expense of nearly £12,000;
and the inhabitants are tolerably supplied with water
brought from springs in the town moor into a capa-
cious reservoir, from which it is distributed by pipes.
The Dunfermline library, supported by a proprietary of
shareholders, has a collection of about 3000 volumes,
and the Tradesmen's and Mechanics' libraries, united in
1S32, contain about 2000; a circulating library has
been established, and in the town-hall is a public news-
room supplied with the daily journals and periodical
publications. The Mechanics' institution, founded in
1S25, still retains its apparatus, though the lectures
have been discontinued ; and a scientific association
was established in 1834. The Western District of Fife
Agricultural Society hold their meetings here in July,
for the distribution of premiums, and the Horticultural,
and Pittencrieff Horticultural Societies also meet annu-
ally ; there is likewise an ornithological society in the
town.
The staple trade is the linen manufacture, chiefly of
the finer kinds, and which, by a regular and progressive
series of improvements, has been brought to the highest
state of perfection ; the principal articles are, diapers,
towelling, napkins, and damasks for table-linen of every
variety of pattern, and remarkable for the beauty of
their texture. Toilet napkins, with the royal arms in
the centre, were made here for his late majesty William
IV.; and in 1840, toilet cloths, executed according to a
sketch by the officers of the Queen's household, and
having the royal arms, with the initials V. R., and a
border of oak and laurel, were woven by the same
manufacturer for her present Majesty. An order, like-
wise, was subsequently received from the lord steward
by another manufacturer, for damask table-linen of the
finest quality, decorated in a suitable manner. The
rapid advance in this manufacture was much promoted
by rewards offered by the board of trade, and which,
though generally discontinued, are still sometimes
granted for specimens of superior elegance: in 1837,
one firm in the town had obtained, in the course of a
few previous years, premiums amounting to £516. The
finer yarns are procured chiefly from Leeds and Preston,
in England, and from Belfast, in Ireland ; but there
are large establishments in the town for the spinning
of yarn for the weaving of coarser goods, which are sold
partly by hawkers in different parts of the country.
Coloured table-covers of great variety of pattern have
been lately made to a very considerable extent ; about
323
3000 persons are employed in the various looms, and
the value of the goods manufactured annually ex-
ceeds £350,000. There are two iron-foundries in the
town, and a third at Charlestown, in the parish, in
which, in addition to the usual castings of iron, are
produced some of brass. The manufacture of tobacco,
for which there are two establishments, is considerable.
There are also two tanneries and currying-works, three
roperies, a soap-work, and a candle manufactory ; five
breweries, three of which are in the town ; four dye-
works, a saw-mill, two tile and brick works, and various
other establishments connected with the trade of the
town. Branches of the Bank of Scotland, the British
Linen Company, the Commercial Bank, and the Edin-
burgh and Leith Bank have been opened here. The
market-days are Tuesday and Friday, the former for
corn, which is numerously attended, and the latter for
eggs, poultry, butter, and provisions : fairs are held for
horses, cattle, and general merchandise, on the third
Tuesday in January, March, April, June, July, Septem-
ber, October, and November. The post-office has a
good delivery; and facility of communication is afforded
by excellent turnpike-roads, of which more than thirty
miles traverse the parish, and by railroads, from the
collieries and lime-works, to Charlestown. A railway,
also, has been constructed from the lower end of the
town, and communicates with the Elgin railroad. Nu-
merous steam-boats ply in the Frith of Forth, for which
a pier has been formed at Charlestown ; there are like-
wise harbours at Limekilns and Brucehaven. The rate-
able annual value of the entire parish is £53,515, of
which £17,532 are returned for the burgh.
The burgh appears to have arisen gradually under
the abbots of the monastery, from whom it derived cer-
tain privileges and immunities, which it continued to
hold for nearly two centuries, till it was erected into a
royal burgh by charter of James VI. in 1588, ratifying
all former grants. The government, under this charter,
is vested in a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild,
treasurer, chamberlain, and a council of sixteen, by
whom all the other officers of the burgh are appointed.
There are eight incorporated trades, viz., the smiths,
weavers, wrights, tailors, shoemakers, bakers, masons,
and butchers, all of whom, except the weavers, have ex-
clusive privileges ; the fraternity of guildry is very
ancient, and possesses property of the yearly value of
about £300. The jurisdiction of the magistrates ex-
tends over the whole of the royalty, and the provost is
ex- officio a justice of the peace for the county of Fife ; the
magistrates hold the ordinary bailie-court and the nine-
merks' court for the recovery of debts not exceeding
the sum of ten shillings. The number of cases in
the latter court has very much decreased since the
institution of the sheriff's court for small debts ; and
the criminal jurisdiction is confined to misdemeanours.
The police is under the direction of commissioners ap-
pointed by act of parliament in 1811. The burgh is
associated with those of Stirling, Culross, Inverkeithing,
and Queensferry, in returning a member to the imperial
parliament; the number of £10 householders within
the burgh proper is 397, and of those under that rent,
but above £5, 432. The tolbooth, or Toicn House, was
built in 1771, and two upper stories were added to
it in 1792 ; it is a neat plain edifice, with a square
tower 100 feet in height, and several carved stones
2 T 2
D U N F
DUNF
which formed part of the ancient cross, now removed,
have been inserted in the front wall of the building.
The first-floor contains the council-room and the sheriff's
court ; and above is the town-hall, used also as an ex-
change reading-room, in which are portraits of Vice-
Admiral Sir Andrew Mitchell, George Chalmers, Esq.,
and Provost Low, with busts of the late William Pitt and
Lord Melville. The third story was used as the gaol
previously to the erection of a more commodious build-
ing on the town-green. The Guildhall, or Spire hotel,
was erected by the fraternity of guildry for the holding
of their general meetings, and also for those of the
county, but was never completed for that purpose, and
in 1S20 it became the property of a few individuals who
converted it into an hotel. It is a handsome building
with a spire 132 feet high, from which it takes its name,
and contains, in addition to its arrangements as an
hotel, a spacious hall fifty-two feet long, thirty-five feet
wide, and twenty-one feet high, which is appropriated
to various public purposes. The new Gaol was built at
an expense of £2070 ; it is three stories high, and has
eighteen cells, two apartments for debtors, and accom-
modation for the gaoler.
The parish, which is situated in the western part of the
county, is of irregular form, about eight miles in average
length, and five in average breadth, comprising 23,040
acres, of which 13,391 are arable, about 3740 not ara-
ble, 1135 woodland and plantations, and the remainder
sites of buildings, water, and waste. The surface is greatly
diversified with bold undulations, rising in some parts
into hills of considerable elevation, of which the principal
are Beath and Craigluscar, the former clothed with ver-
dure to its summit, and commanding an extensive pros-
pect. The coast, reaching for about a mile and a half
along the Forth, is partly flat and partly high and rocky.
The chief streams that intersect the parish are the Tower
burn and the Baldridge burn, both tributaries of the
Lyne, which, after these accessions, becomes of consider-
able size, and falls into the Frith at Charlestown. In
the northern part of the parish are several lakes, of
which the principal are, the Town loch, about a mile to
the north-east of the burgh, and one mile in circum-
ference ; Loch End, two miles north of the town, for-
merly of equal extent, but now much diminished ; Dun-
duff, a small sheet of water, three miles north of the
town, and abounding with trout, perch, and pike ; and
Loch Fitly, two miles north-east of the town, one mile in
length, and half a mile in breadth, containing pike,
perch, and eels. Loch Gloe, or the White loch, in the
Cleish hills, two miles in circumference, and Black loch',
a little to the north-west of Loch Gloe, are partly in the
parish of Cleish, and both abound with pike, perch, and
trout. The soil is generally fertile, and the system of
agriculture in a highly improved state ; the crops are,
oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips, peas and
beans, with the various grasses ; and a considerable por-
tion of land is cultivated as orchards and gardens. The
farm-buildings are substantial and commodiously ar-
ranged ; the lands are well inclosed, and much waste
has been improved by draining, and brought into profit-
able cultivation. The cattle are chiefly of the Fifeshire
black breed, with some of the Teeswater on the dairy-
farms, of the former about 1500, and of the latter 500 ;
few sheep are reared, but nearly 1400 are fed upon the
pastures, and there is a moderate number of swine.
324
The principal substrata are, coal and limestone,
which are extensively raised, freestone, and greenstone ;
the rocks are generally of the trap formation, and in
some parts display fine specimens of columnar basalt.
The coalfields are very extensive, and have been wrought
from a remote period, first by the abbot of Dunferm-
line, to whom William de Oberwill, proprietor of Pitten-
crieff, in 1291 granted the privilege of working a pit
on part of his lands. It is, however, chiefly since the
year 1771 that they have been wrought to any great
extent, and it is calculated that there are still 3000
acres unwrought in the several fields in the parish. The
coal, which is of the usual varieties, and generally of
good quality, occurs in seams from a few inches to
eight feet in thickness, at depths of from fifteen to 105
fathoms below the surface. The average quantity raised
annually is 120,000 tons, which are conveyed by rail-
roads from the pits to the harbours of Charlestown,
in this parish, and of Inverkeithing, in the parish
adjoining, for exportation ; seventeen steam-engines are
employed, varying from twelve to 120 horse power,
and 2910 persons, of whom 1180 are engaged in work-
ing the mines. The most extensive quarries of limestone
are those on the lands of Broomhall ; the stone occurs
within a quarter of a mile from the shore, in beds from
twenty to fifty feet in thickness, containing a great
variety of fossil remains, and the quantity annually
raised is about 15,000 tons of stone, and about 400,000
bushels of shells. The stone is conveyed from the
quarries by a railroad to Charlestown, where it is burnt ;
the rough stone is sent principally to Stirling, and the
shells to Dundee and the north. There are also quar-
ries at Roscobie and Lathalmond, the produce of which
is chiefly sold in the upper lands of the parish ; and
others on a smaller scale are worked at Sunnybank
and Craigluscar. The parish likewise contains several
quarries of freestone and trap ; ironstone occurs in
the Elgin coalfield, and was formerly wrought, and
pyrites of iron and of copper have been found. The
remains of old timber are not very extensive ; the plan-
tations consist of oak, beech, elm, plane, ash, willow,
larch, and Scotch fir. Broomhall House, the pleasant
and retired seat of the Earl of Elgin, is a handsome
mansion, beautifully situated on an eminence overlook-
ing the village of Limekilns, and surrounded by undu-
lated grounds richly wooded. The house has a valuable
collection of paintings; and here are preserved the
sword and helmet of King Robert Bruce, given to the
late earl by Mrs. Bruce of Clackmannan, and also the
nuptial bed of Anne of Denmark, queen of James VI.,
which was for some years in the possession of an inn-
keeper in the town, who, a short time before her death,
presented it to the earl. Pitliver House, Keavil, and
Pitfirrane are in the vicinity, but undistinguished by
any peculiarity of features ; Pittencrieff House was built
in 1610, by Sir Alexander Clerk of Edinburgh, whose
armorial bearings are over the doorway ; and Logie is a
modern house, in which is preserved a cabinet, of richly-
carved walnut, formerly belonging to Anne of Denmark.
Pitreavie House was the ancient mansion of the Ward-
law family, and Balmulc also belonged to them : the
mansion of the Hill, for many ages the residence of the
Mitchells, is now occupied in several tenements.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Dunfermline and synod of
D U N F
D UN F
Fife ; patron, the Crown. There are two ministers,
each having a stipend of £282 ; the minister of the
first charge has also a manse, and a glebe valued at
£34 per annum, but to the second charge there is
attached neither manse nor glebe. The principal of the
two incumbencies is filled by the Rev. Peter Chalmers,
A. M., author of the highly valuable Historical and Sta-
tistical Account of Dunfermline, published in 1844, and
whose accurate description of the Dunfermline coalfield,
reprinted in that work, was honoured with one of the
premiums of the Highland and Agricultural Society of
Scotland. The church, once a portion of the ancient
abbey, and but ill adapted to its purpose, was rebuilt
in 1821 to the east of the former nave, which is now
its western approach. It is an elegant cruciform struc-
ture in the later English style, with a square embattled
tower rising from the centre to the height of 100 feet,
and crowned with pinnacles : the parapet is pierced
with openings representing the letters of the legend
" King Robert the Bruce," whose tomb lies immedi-
ately beneath. The interior is finely arranged : the
nave is separated from the aisles by handsome clus-
tered columns with decorated capitals, surmounted by
gracefully-pointed arches supporting the groined roof,
which is ornamented with shields at the intersections of
the ribs. This part of the church is lighted by a range
of elegant clerestory windows, enriched with tracery ;
the east window is of large dimensions and of beautiful
design, and the aisles and transepts are lighted by win-
dows of corresponding character. Immediately under
the tower is the pulpit, in front of the slabs covering
the tomb of Bruce, near which it is intended to raise
an appropriate monument. The church contains 1400
available sittings, and was completed at an expense
of £11,000.
A church dedicated to St. Andrew was built in 1S33,
to replace an old chapel of ease which had become dila-
pidated ; and in 1835 a district of the parish, about
half a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in breadth,
containing a population of 3000, was assigned to it by the
General Assembly, and for a short time formed a quoad
sacra parish. It is a neat edifice containing 797 sittings,
erected at a cost of £1560, partly by subscription : the
minister's stipend is £120, derived from the seat- rents
and collections, with a house and garden. An exten-
sion church, also, was erected at the east end of Golf-
drum, in 1840, at an expense of £1673.- of which £1002
were raised by subscription; and a district in the neigh-
bourhood, with a population of about 3000, was for-
merly attached to it : the edifice contains 800 sittings,
and the minister has a stipend partly secured on bond,
and derived from seat-rents and collections. There was
till 1S43 a quoad sacra church in Canmore-street ;
but on the induction of its minister to the parish of
Thurso, the congregation dispersed, and a Free church
was built on its site in 1S44. The parish likewise con-
tains several places of worship for members of the
United Associate Synod, one for the Relief Congregation,
which was the first established in Scotland, one each
for Baptists and Independents, and an Episcopalian
chapel.
The burgh grammar school is of uncertain founda-
tion, though said to have been originally dependent on
the monastery : Anne of Denmark, queen of James VI.,
granted to the town council £2000 Scotch for its sup-
325
port, in 1610. The buildings consist of two class-rooms,
and a good dwelling-house for the rector, who has a
small salary in addition to the fees; there is also
a trifling bequest for an usher, but none is appointed,
the rector selecting and paying his own assistant.
The school under the patronage of the Fraternity
of Guild, and for which an appropriate building
was erected in 1816, at their expense, contains two
rooms, one for English reading, grammar, and geo-
graphy, and the other for writing, arithmetic, mathe-
matics, and the classics ; it is superintended by two mas-
ters, each of whom has a dwelling-house and garden
rent free, in addition to the fees. About 200 children
attend a school at Priory Lane, in which formerly fifty
children were taught gratuitously from the proceeds of
£1000 bequeathed by Adam Rolland, Esq., of Gask,
and now lost ; it is supported chiefly by very moderate
fees. There is also a school at Golfdrum, opened in
1842, in which about forty children are instructed from
the proceeds of a bequest by the Rev. Allan Mc Lean,
minister of the parish. Infant schools, Sunday schools,
and others, of which some have small endowments,
together afford instruction to nearly 3000 children ; and
there are also numerous friendly societies, and insti-
tutions for humane and charitable purposes.
The ancient monastery continued till the Reforma-
tion, when its revenue was estimated at £2513 Scots;
the last abbot was George Dury, who died in 1561, when
Robert Pitcairn, secretary of state to James VI., was
appointed commendator, after which the abbacy was
erected into a temporal lordship. Of this once mag-
nificent structure the principal remains are, the west-
ern portion of the abbey church, which is still entire,
and presents a noble specimen of the later Norman
style, with lofty massive columns and circular arches,
and a timber-frame roof; the south wall of the roof-
less refectory, in which is a range of nine lofty win-
dows ; the western gable of the refectory, with a hand-
some large window of seven lights, enriched with
flowing tracery; and the two towers at the entrance,
of which one, north of the gable, aud crowned with a
low pyramidal spire, is entire, and the other, south-west
of the gable, and under which is a spacious gateway,
is partly a ruin. The great western doorway of the
church, of receding arches enriched with zigzag mould-
ings, resting on a series of massive columns with
flowered capitals, is a beautiful specimen of the later
Norman style ; and the north porch, though externally
of plainer character, combines in the interior numerous
minutely elegant details. In the abbey of Dunferm-
line were interred the remains of Malcolm Canmore
and his queen, Margaret ; his sons, Edward, Edgar,
and Alexander I. ; David I. ; Malcolm IV. ; Alexander
III. and his queen, Margaret ; Robert the Bruce and
his queen, Elizabeth ; the queen of Robert III. ; and
many of the ancient nobility of Scotland. In removing
that portion of the abbey on the site of which the new
church is erected, several very large slabs were dug up,
supposed to indicate the royal sepulchres ; and on
taking away these stones, in 1S19, among various other
relics of the ancient kings, was found the skeleton of
Robert Bruce, encased in two coverings of thin sheet
lead, round which was wrapped a shroud of cloth of
gold, the whole inclosed in a strong coffin of oak which
had mouldered into dust. After due examination, and a
D UNI
D UN I
careful and scrutinizing investigation of the minutest
circumstances, which fully proved the identity of the
body, the bones were replaced in their natural position,
and, being wrapped in the original covering of lead,
and deposited in a leaden coffin into which melted pitch
was poured, were then reinterred in the very spot
in which they had been found, in the "choir of the
ancient abbey, and immediately under the tower of the
present church. On the lid of the coffin is the inscrip-
tion, in raised letters, King Robert Bruce, under which
are the dates 1329 and 1819. Upon the south-east
side of the ravine, north of the tower of Canmore, is the
cave of St. Margaret, to which that queen was in the
habit of retiring for private devotions ; it is an excava-
tion in the rock, about twelve feet long and eight feet
wide, and though of natural formation appears to have
been adapted by art for that purpose. There are still
some remains of the ancient Palace, consisting chiefly
of the south-west wall and part of the eastern end of
the building. The wall, which overlooks the glen, is
205 feet in length, sixty feet in height, and supported
by buttresses ; and in the ceiling of an oriel window
near the south-eastern extremity, is a sculpture in bass-
relief of the Annunciation, which was discovered during
some repairs in 1812. At the south-eastern angle of
the wall, a flight of steps leads down to a vaulted apart-
ment called the Magazine from its having been used by
the military, in the rebellion of 1745, as a store-room
for their ammunition. There are remains of numerous
chapels in the parish ; and traces of the ancient walls
surrounding the town, and vestiges of the gates, may
also still be discovered. Dunfermline gives the title of
Baron to the family of Abercromby.
DUNINO, a parish, in the district of St. Andrew's,
county of Fife, 4 miles (S. E.) from St. Andrew's ;
containing, with the district of Kingsmuir, 471 inhabit-
ants. This place derives its name, occasionally cor-
rupted into Denino, and signifying in the Gaelic lan-
guage " the hill of young women," from the establishment
of a nunnery at an early period on an eminence about
300 feet above the level of the sea, and of which the
remains, consisting chiefly of the foundation, were re-
moved in 1815. The parish, including the lands of
Kingsmuir, which on very doubtful authority have
been claimed by the parish of Crail, is about three miles
in length, and nearly of equal breadth, comprising 3275
acres, of which 2880 are arable, 270 woodland and
plantations, and the remainder waste. The surface is
generally level, but the scenery is somewhat enlivened
by the course of three streamlets, in which are found
excellent trout, and which, uniting their waters, form
the burn of Kenly, flowing eastward into the German
Ocean. The soil is mostly fertile, producing good crops
of wheat, oats, barley, peas, beans, potatoes, and turnips,
with the various grasses ; and the pastures are luxuri-
antly rich. The system of husbandry is advanced ;
the lands have been drained, and inclosed with fences of
stone ; the farm-houses are well built, and roofed with
slate ; and on many of the farms are threshing-mills of
the most approved construction. The cattle are gene-
rally of the Fifeshire black breed, with a few of the
Ayrshire ; the sheep are the Linton or Northumberland,
and considerable numbers of swine are also fed on the
several farms. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £2965.
326
The plantations on the banks of one of the rivulets
contain a great variety of hard-wood trees, and those
in other parts consist of larch and Scotch fir, all
in a very flourishing state. Though Dunino is situated
on the great coal basin of Scotland, it has been found
more profitable to obtain that fuel from St. Andrew's
or Anstruther than to work it. The rocks in the parish
are of white sandstone, of fine texture, and admirable
quality for building ; red sandstone is found in regular
strata, and limestone forms the bed of a burn ; dis-
integrated trap, intersected with veins of felspar, occurs
in one place, and ironstone has been found in considerable
quantities. Fairs are held at Kingsmuir in May and .
October; there are several post-offices within less than
five miles of the church, and facilities of communica-
tion with St. Andrew's, Anstruther, Cupar, and other
towns are afforded by good turnpike-roads. The eccle-
siastical affairs are under the superintendence of the
presbytery of St. Andrew's and synod of Fife. The
minister's stipend is £198. 16., with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £28 per annum ; patrons, the Principal
and Professors of the United College of St. Andrew's.
The church is a handsome structure erected in 1S26,
and contains 224 sittings. The parochial school affords
instruction to about forty children ; the master's salary
is £34, with a house and garden, and the fees average
£16. There were until within the last few years some
ruins of the ancient castle of Draffan, supposed to be
of Danish origin, and also of that of Stravithy ; and
there are still remains of the castle of Pittairthy, in the
south of the parish, commanding an extensive view of
the sea. The eastern, or more modern, portion of this
building has the date 1653, and is supposed to have
been built by Sir William Bruce of Kinross ; though
unroofed, the walls are in good preservation. Near the
garden of the manse are some remains of a Druidical
circle ; and about a mile to the west is a farm called
Pittan-Druidh, or the grave of the Druids. Some cop-
per coins of Charles I. and II., and of William and
Mary, were recently found in a grave in the churchyard :
two coins of Philip II. of Spain were also dug up in the
parish, one of gold, and the other of silver, supposed to
have been found in the wreck of a vessel belonging to
the Spanish armada ; and in 1836, an urn containing
ashes was ploughed up in a field on the lands of Bal-
caithly. Among the most distinguished characters
connected with the parish, were, John Fordun, author
of the Scoto-chronicon ; John Winram, sub-prior of St.
Andrew's ; and the Rev. James Wood, who, previously
to his becoming minister of St. Andrew's, was one of
the commissioners that brought Charles II. from the
continent at the Restoration. Sir Robert Ayton, author
of the celebrated poems, was a native of Dunino.
DUNIPACE, a parish, ecclesiastically united to the
parish of Larbert, county of Stirling, 4 miles
(W. by N.) from Falkirk ; containing, with the villages
of Herbertshire, Denovan, and Torwood, 1578 inhabit-
ants, of whom 562 are in the rural districts. This
place, of which the name, of Celtic origin, is derived
from two artificial mounds, by some writers supposed to
signify " the Hills of Peace," and by others, with greater
probability, " the Hills of Death," is of remote antiquity,
and has been the scene of numerous important events,
of which the last was the signature, on one of these
hills, of a treaty of peace by Edward I. of England in
D UNI
DUNK
1301. Dunipace is bounded on the south by the river
Carron, and is of triangular form, comprising about
5800 acres, of which 4S00 are arable, 630 woodland
and plantations, and the remainder moor, moss, and
waste. The surface towards the west rises to an eleva-
tion of 600 feet above the Forth ; towards the east it
terminates in the Carse of Stirling ; and in addition to
the artificial mounds from which the parish takes its
name, and which are about sixty feet in height, was
formerly another, about two miles to the west, having
an elevation of forty feet, but which has been entirely
removed within the last few years. The soil is gene-
rally light and dry, with some tracts of clay ; the crops
are, wheat, which has been lately introduced and grows
well, barley, oats, turnips, and potatoes ; and a large
proportion of the surface is in pasture. The cattle are
mostly of small size, as best adapted to the land, whether
for feeding or for the dairy ; the farms are of mode-
rate extent, and under good management. A farmers'
society was established in 1839, for the encouragement
of agriculture and the improvement of the breed of
cattle ; and a ploughing-match and a cattle-show are
held annually, when prizes are awarded to the suc-
cessful competitors. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £7594.
The plantations are generally thriving j and there are
considerable remains of the ancient forest of Torwood,
■where, till within the last thirty years, was a stately
oak, in the hollow trunk of which, twelve feet in dia-
meter, the celebrated Wallace and his companions occa-
sionally held meetings, to concert measures for rescuing
their country from the tyranny of Edward I. of England.
Herbertshire Castle, a very ancient structure of unknown
date, supposed to have been originally a royal hunting-
seat, is beautifully situated on the north bank of the
Carron, in an extensive demesne, richly wooded, and
tastefully laid out in walks commanding much pic-
turesque scenery. Dunipace House, a handsome modern
mansion, is finely situated near the site of the old
church ; and Quarter House, also a good residence, is
sheltered by thriving plantations. Carbrook House is
romantically situated within a short distance of Torwood
Castle, from the woods of which it derives much addi-
tional beauty to its scenery. Facility of communication
with Falkirk and other towns in the vicinity is afforded
by excellent roads, and by a bridge of three arches
erected in 1S2S, to replace one of inconvenient con-
struction which had become insecure from its antiquity ;
and a handsome bridge leading to Dunipace House was
built over the river Carron, a little below the ancient
ford, in 1S24. The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish,
which about the year 1620 was united to that of Larbert,
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of Stir-
ling and synod of Perth and Stirling. The minister, who
officiates in both places, has a stipend of £271. 13.,
with a good manse in Larbert, and a glebe, the common
property of the two parishes, valued at £26. 10. per
annum ; patron, the Crown. The old church of Duni-
pace was taken down from apprehension of insecurity,
and the present church erected on a site about a mile
and a half to the west, in 1834, at a cost of £2500 ; it
is a handsome structure in the later English style, with
a square embattled tower, and contains 604 sittings.
The members of the Free Church have a place of wor-
ship. The parochial school is attended by about sixty
327
children ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house
and garden, and the fees average £15. William Simp-
son, Esq., of Plean, bequeathed £500 to the Kirk
Session for the benefit of the poor. There are some
remains of the castle of Torwood to the west of the
turnpike-road from Falkirk to Stirling : the history of
this structure, which is surrounded by the remains of
the ancient Caledonian forest, is involved in much ob-
scurity : the lands attached to it were purchased from
one of the lords Forresters by the late Thomas Dundas,
Esq., grandfather of Colonel Dundas, of Carron Hall,
the present proprietor.
Obverse,
Reverse.
Seal.
DUNKELD and DOWALLY, a parish, in the county
of Perth, 15 miles (N. by W.) from Perth, and 55
(N. N. TV".) from Edinburgh ; comprising the ancient
city of Dunkeld, partly within the parish of Caputh ; for
many years the seat of the primacy of the kingdom
prior to its removal to St. Andrew's, and now the seat
of a presbytery ; and containing in the parish 2S4S
inhabitants, of whom 1096 are in the town. This place,
which is of very remote origin, and is supposed to have
been the capital of the ancient Caledonia, appears to
have derived its name from the erection of a castle or
stronghold, towards the close of the 5th century, on an
eminence commanding the passes of the vale of Atholl,
and still called the King's seat, from its having been
the resort of some of the earlier monarchs for partaking
the diversion of the chase. There are yet remains of
this ancient fortress ; and near the site, Mary, Queen of
Scots, narrowly escaped a serious injury from one of the
herd, while witnessing a chase for the celebration of
which the Earl of Atholl had employed 2000 of his
Highlanders to collect the deer of the central Highlands.
A monastery was founded here about the year 570 for
brethren of the order of St. Columba, subordinate to
the abbey of Iona, over which that saint at the time
presided ; and Columba remained for some months at
this place, for the instruction of the people of the sur-
rounding district, who assembled in great numbers to
hear him. The establishment was placed under the
superintendence of an abbot, many of whose successors
held the most distinguished offices in the state; and
the brethren, who are identified with the ancient
Culdees, employed themselves chiefly in teaching and
transcribing the sacred Scriptures, but had no commu-
nion with the Church of Rome. The monastery, ori-
ginally of rude construction, was rebuilt with stone
about the year 729, and continued to advance in im-
portance ; numerous dwellings gradually arose in the
immediate vicinity, and in S34 the town had so
much increased in extent that Brudus, king of the
Picts, with a numerous army, after crossing the Tay,
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DUNK
found sufficient accommodation in the town and castle
preparatory to his battle with Alpinus, king of the
Scots, at Angus.
In 845, the Danes, on their march to plunder the
monastery, were encountered near Dunkeld by Kenneth
Mc Alpine, who defeated them with considerable loss ;
but, in 905, again advancing for the same purpose, they
succeeded in plundering the monastery and laying
waste the town. In the reign of Kenneth III., a nume-
rous army of Danes, in a third attempt to commit the
same depredations, were intercepted on their march by
that monarch, who, in a severe conflict near Luncarty,
defeated them with great slaughter. The buildings
connected with the monastery still increased, and the
relics of St. Columba were removed from Iona, and
deposited in a church erected here, and dedicated to
his memory by Kenneth Mc Alpine after he had united
the Scots and -Picts into one kingdom. The Culdees
continued their establishment under a superior of their
own nomination, and had, in the parish of Dowally and
other places in the district, various smaller institu-
tions, till they were superseded by canons regular in the
reign of David I., who, in 1127, converted the monas-
tery into a cathedral establishment, and made Dunkeld
the seat of a diocese, which retained the primacy of the
kingdom until the distinction was transferred to the
see of St. Andrew's in the reign of James III. The
prelates of Dunkeld were much exposed to the aggres-
sions of the heads of the Highland clans in the vicinity
of the diocese, with whom a constant state of warfare
was maintained. The revenues of the see were fre-
quently intercepted by armed bands who waylaid the
bishops' officers, and carried them off by violence ; and
such of the lands belonging to the bishops as were
contiguous to the estates of the Highland chiefs were
either seized and appropriated to their own use, or
plundered and laid waste. The bishops were assaulted
even while officiating in the cathedral ; and those who
ventured to resist, or bring to punishment, the leaders
by whom these outrages were perpetrated, were beset
by parties against whose hostile attacks they were com-
pelled to defend themselves by a numerous retinue of
armed attendants.
In the reign of James II., the Earl of Atholl, nephew
of that monarch, assembled the canons of the abbey,
and requested them to appoint his brother, Andrew
Stuart, though not in full orders, successor to the see,
which had become vacant by the death of Bishop
Brown. With this request they thought proper, through
intimidation, to comply ; but the election was after-
wards abrogated by Pope Leo X., and Gavin Douglas,
uncle of the Earl of Angus, was appointed, whose arrival
to take possession of the see caused the servants of
Stuart to fly to arms, and seize upon the palace and the
tower of the cathedral, whence they discharged a volley
of shot against the house of the dean, to which Douglas
had retired to receive the homage of the clergy. On
the following day, the city was filled with the armed
adherents of both parties, and a dreadful scene of vio-
lence ensued ; but at length, Stuart, finding it impos-
sible to relieve his men in the palace, was compelled to
abandon it, and, having no hope of retaining the pre-
lacy, he retired on condition of being allowed to hold
that portion of the bishop's rents which he had already
received, and also the churches of Alyth and Cargill, on
328
payment annually of a trifling acknowledgment. From
this time the see remained undisturbed till the Refor-
mation. The church erected by Kenneth Mc Alpine in
S45 continued to be the cathedral till 1318, when the
choir of a more spacious and elegant structure was
completed by Bishop Sinclair, and appropriated to that
purpose ; in 1406 a nave was added to the building by
Bishop Cardney, and the remainder of the church was
completed in 1464 by Bishop Lauder, who also erected
the lofty tower of the cathedral, and built the chapter-
house, in 1469. The episcopal palace, to the south-west
of the cathedral church, was formerly defended by a
castle, erected in 1408, but of which at present nothing
remains except the site, still called the Castle Close ;
and in 1508, a wing was added to the palace, and a
handsome chapel built immediately adjoining it. The
bishops had palaces also at Cluny, Perth, and Edin-
burgh, with ample revenues ; and at the time of the
Reformation, the church of Dunkeld was valued at
£1600 per annum. In 1560, a commission was issued
by the Lords of Congregation for purifying the church,
by removing the altars, images, and other idolatrous
ornaments, and burning them in the churchyard ; and
in their zeal to fulfil this commission, the mob destroyed
the whole of the interior of that beautiful and venerable
structure of which the ruins display the stately mag-
nificence, and left nothing entire but the walls. These,
too, were subsequently stripped of their roof, and have
since remained in a state of dreary ruin, with the ex-
ception only of the choir, which in 1600 was roofed
with slate at the expense of the family of Stuart, of
Ladywell, and has been appropriated as the parish
church. By acts of the General Assembly in 15S6 and
1 593, the city was made the seat of a presbytery ; but
there is still a bishop of Dunkeld, though unconnected
with the Church of Scotland, who presides over the
episcopal churches of Dunkeld, Dunblane, and Fife.
After the battle of Killiecrankie in 1689, the Highland
troops of Viscount Dundee, who had been killed in that
conflict, advanced to the city, then garrisoned by the
newly-raised Cameronian regiment ; and after a severe
struggle, the Highlanders obtained possession of many
of the houses, from which they made frequent discharges
of musketry upon the Cameronian soldiers, who, in order
to dislodge them, set fire to the buildings where they had
sought shelter. The whole of the town, with the exception
of the cathedral and three houses, was totally burnt ; and
the inhabitants were compelled to take refuge in the
church. In 1703, the Marquess of Atholl was elevated to
the rank of duke by Queen Anne, who is said to have sub-
sequently paid a visit to that nobleman, first at Blair-
Atholl, and then at Dunkeld House, to confer with him on
matters connected with the union of the two kingdoms j
and in corroboration of the event a state room in the castle
at the former place is still called Queen Anne's bedcham-
ber. On the breaking out of the rebellion in 1745, the
Marquess of Tullibardine, accompanied by the Pretender,
whose cause he had embraced, took temporary possession
of Blair Castle in the absence of his younger brother,
the Duke of Atholl, and sent the lords Nairn and Lochiel
to proclaim the prince at the market-cross of Dunkeld.
Early in the following year, the Duke of Cumberland
stationed part of his forces at Blair-Atholl and in the
city, which posts, after his departure, were occupied by
bodies of Hessian troops, between whom and the Atholl
DUNK
DUNK
Highlanders frequent skirmishes took place in the neigh-
bourhood. In September, 1S42, Her Majesty the Queen,
while visiting her Scottish dominions, made an excursion
to Dunkeld House, attended by Prince Albert, and was
met on the boundary of the estate by a numerous guard
of the Atholl Highlanders, who escorted the royal visit-
ers to the park. Here Lord Glenlyon, the heir of the
family, at the head of his Highland regiment, received
the Queen, and then conducted her to the tent which
had been erected for her reception on the lawn to the
north-west of the cathedral, a spot commanding a splen-
did view of the wildly romantic and beautifully pictu-
resque scenery for which the place is so highly celebrated.
Her Majesty reviewed the regiment, and passing along
the line formed by the various local societies that had
been assembled in the park, retired into the tent, where
a sumptuous collation was served, after which the officers
of the Atholl clan were severally introduced to the
Queen, and had the ^honour of kissing hands. Having
remained for a few hours at Dunkeld, Her Majesty took
her departure for Breadalbane, escorted by the Hon.
Capt. Murray, who rode by the side of the royal carriage
to the boundary of the Atholl estate, a distance of thir-
teen miles, pointing out by name to the Queen the
various objects of interest. In 1844, Her Majesty, on
her second visit to Scotland, passed again through
Dunkeld.
The town is beautifully situated on the north bank
of the river Tay, over which is a noble bridge of five
open arches, of which the central arch has a span of
ninety feet, and the others of eighty- four and seventy-
four each, with two dry arches of twenty-five feet span,
the whole erected in 1809, by the late Duke of Atholl,
at an expense of £30,000, of which £5000 were granted
by government. From the centre of the bridge is a fine
view of the city, which consists partly of a spacious
street of handsome modern houses, extending from the
bridge along the line of the great north road from Perth
to Inverness ; and a street of more ancient but well-built
houses crosses the former at right angles, in the market-
place, from which the old cross was removed about the
commencement of the present century. Near the cathe-
dral is the deanery, the only house now remaining of the
three saved from the conflagration in 16S9. There is a
public library, called the Mackintosh library, which
originated in a gift to the town by the Rev. Donald
Mackintosh, in 181 1 ; it is under the direction of a com-
mittee of curators, and the collection at present consists
of more than 2000 volumes. The manufacture of linen
and the tanning of leather, formerly carried on to a con-
siderable extent, have been discontinued, and the chief
trade at present is the making of shoes. Many of the
poorer class are employed during the spring and summer
months in the peeling of oak, and at other times in agri-
culture and in the slate-quarries ; there are also a dis-
tillery, a public brewery, and several malting establish-
ments, and a saw-mill, affording occupation to a mode-
rate number of persons. Since the erection of the
bridge a very great increase has taken place in the gene-
ral traffic of the town and neighbourhood. There are
now two spacious hotels with posting establishments,
for the reception of visiters whom the beauty of the
scenery and the numerous objects of deep interest in the
vicinity attract ; and several lodging-houses are occu-
pied by families and individuals who during the summer
Vol. I.— 329
months make this their residence. The post-office has a
good delivery ; the Inverness mail through Atholl passes
daily, a coach to Perth three times in the week, and
during the summer there are coaches to Inverness,
Dundee, Loch Lomond, and Perth. The market, which
is amply supplied with provisions of every kind, is on
Saturday ; and fairs for cattle and horses, and for hiring
farm-servants, are held on February 14th, March 25th,
April 5th, June 9th, and the second Tuesday in Novem-
ber. The police is under the management of an officer
appointed by the Duke of Atholl as hereditary lord of
the barony. A court for the recovery of small debts
is held quarterly, under the sheriff; and the county
magistrates for the district hold their courts in the
Masons' lodge, in which also public meetings are held,
and the general business of the town transacted. The
old prison was taken down in 1743, and one of the dry
arches of the bridge was subsequently inclosed and
fitted up for the temporary confinement of offenders.
The parish is situated on the north side of the vale of
Atholl, and extends for more than six miles along the
bank of the Tay, varying in breadth, and comprising
about 12,000 acres, of which 1200 are a»-able, 300 pasture,
10,000 woodland and plantations, and the remainder
covered with water. The surface is strikingly diversi-
fied with hills of precipitous elevation and fantastic
form, of which the steep acclivities are indented with
deep ravines, and which vary in height from 1000 to
2000 feet above the level of the sea, rising abruptly from
a narrow tract of shelving low land apparently gained by
embankment from the river. These hills were planted
with larch-trees by the late Duke of Atholl, and form an
extensive forest, nearly fourteen miles in length from
Craig-y- barns, opposite the King's Seat, which has an
elevation of 1000 feet above the sea, and varying from
three to six miles in breadth. On the summit of the
hill of Duchray, which rises to a height of 1900 feet, is a
lake about half a mile in circumference, abounding with
perch ; on the hill of Ordie, at an elevation of 700 feet,
is another, several miles in circumference, in which are
trout of excellent quality ; in the barony of Dulcapon is
Loch Broom, also containing trout; and at Rotmel are
two lakes, in which perch are found. The soil in the
lower lands is thin and light, but on the acclivities of the
hills richer, and slightly intermixed with clay, producing
good crops of oats and barley, with turnips and potatoes.
The state of husbandry has been greatly improved, and
an agricultural society for the district established ; the
lands have been drained and inclosed ; the farm-build-
ings and offices are of stone, roofed with slate, and are
comfortable and well arranged. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £6073. The substratum is princi-
pally clay-slate, of which the rocks are composed, and
which is remarkable chiefly for the irregularity of its
formation. On the eastern base of the hill of Craig-y-
barns, a small vein of copper-ore was discovered, but has
not been wrought ; and in a bank of sand about twenty
feet above the level of the river Tay, in the lands of
Dowally, some grains of gold were found, of which orna-
ments were made ; but the quantity obtained was so
small, in comparison with the expense of extracting it,
that all attempts have been abandoned. Pearls of good
colour and form, though coarse, are found in the muscles
of the Tay, and occasionally some of finer quality and of
great value.
2 U
DUN K
DUNK
The present Dunkeld House, one of the seats of the
Murray family, now in an unfinished state, was com-
menced by the late Duke of Atholl not long before his
death in 1S30, since which event the building has been
discontinued. The mansion had been raised to the
second story ; an elegant family chapel, the grand
staircase, and a gallery ninety-six feet in length had
been nearly completed ; and in this state, with a tem-
porary roof to protect the walls from injury, the struc-
ture, which is in the later English style of architecture,
still remains. It is situated in a park of no great ex-
tent, but pre-eminent for the unrivalled beauty of its
scenery, and for the extensive views it commands over
the rich vale of Athol and the river Tay on the one
side, and the majestic forest and wildly mountainous
district on the other. Within the park are the stately
remains of the venerable abbey of Dunkeld, with which
the style of the mansion is in pleasing harmony ; the
grounds are laid out with great taste and effect, and
combine every possible variety of deeply-interesting
features. Near the remains of the cathedral are two
fine larch-trees, the first of that species introduced into
Britain, having been brought from the Tyrol by Mr.
Menzies, of Culdares, in 1738. They were reared in the
greenhouse, and planted not far from the old mansion
about the same time as those in the Monzie gardens,
near Crieff; they have attained a height of about ninety
feet, with proportionate girth, and are apparently in a
state of progressive increase. The village of Dowally
consists of a few houses near the church of that name,
with one good inn ; there is also the small village of
Kindallachan, about a mile distant.
The parish of Dowally and the ancient city of Dun-
keld both formed originally part of the extensive parish
of Caputh, from which they were separated in 1500, and
erected into a distinct parish. The minister's stipend is
£161, with an allowance of £63 in lieu of manse and
glebe ; patron, the Duke of Atholl. The choir of the
cathedral was first repaired, and fitted up for public
■worship, at the expense of the Murray family, about
the year 1691 ; and in 1820 it was thoroughly repaired,
and restored, with some trifling exceptions, to its ori-
ginal state by the late duke, at a cost of £5400, towards
which £1000 were granted by government. The interior
contains 655 sittings, and is separated from the aisles
by a range of seven circular arches, supported on low
massive Norman columns, above which are a triforium
of similar character, and a range of clerestory windows
of the early English style. In the choir was formerly
a recumbent figure of Alexander, son of Robert, King
of Scotland, but better known as the Wolf of Badenoch ;
it is now placed in the vestibule, in which, also, is a
tablet to the memory of the Rev. John Robb, minister
of Dunkeld, who was wrecked in the Forfarshire steamer
in 1838. In the north wall of the choir is a tablet to
Thomas Bisset, commissary of Dunkeld ; and in the
south aisle is the monument of Bishop Cardney, on
which is his effigy in a recumbent posture, under a
crocketed canopy. The statue of Bishop Sinclair, of
which the head has been broken off, is in one of the
aisles ; and within the walls are also tombstones of the
Dean of Dunkeld in 1476, and the rector of Monedie in
1548. The other portions of the cathedral are roofless,
and falling into decay ; the walls of the ^aisles are
strengthened with buttresses between the >\ windows,
330
terminating in crocketed pinnacles above the parapet,
and at the west end of the nave is the lofty tower,
ninety-six feet high, with an octagonal turret of great
beauty. The Chapter-house, which has been appro-
priated as a sepulchral chapel for the Murray family,
contains several stately monuments, among which are,
a marble statue of John, fourth duke of Atholl, attired
in his parliamentary robes, erected' by his duchess in
1833 ; a monument to the Marquess of Atholl, on
which the armorial bearings with their several quarter-
ings are richly emblazoned ; and a tablet inscribed to
the memory of Lord Charles Murray, who died in
Greece.
The church of Dowally was erected in 1820, on the
site of the old church founded by Bishop Brown ; it is
a neat structure containing 210 sittings, all of which are
free, and to which, by the erection of a gallery, eighty
might be added. On the east wall of the building are
the armorial bearings of Bishop Brown. Divine service
is performed every Sunday, both in the English and
Gaelic languages, by the assistant minister of Dunkeld.
There are places of worship for members of the Free
Church, Independents, and Glassites. The Royal Gram-
mar School was founded in 1567, by James VI., who
granted funds for its support, from which the rector de-
rives a salary of £5. 13. 4., in addition to the fees and a
house rent free ; the presentation is vested in the Mur-
ray family, subject to the approval of the synod of
Perth and Stirling, who have power of removal on suffi-
cient cause. The buildings are maintained by the
family ; the course of study is similar to that of the
High School of Edinburgh, and the number of scholars
averages about eighty. A parochial school was esta-
blished at Dowally in 1833, by the trustees of the
Atholl estates, who erected a school-house, and pay the
master a salary of £34, in addition to about £14 fees.
A school for the instruction of girls in sewing, tambour-
ing, and other branches of female industry, was insti-
tuted by Jane, Duchess of Atholl, in 1788, and since
her decease has been maintained by Lady Glenlyon ; the
duchess also instituted a Sunday school in 1789, for
which she erected an appropriate building. An hospital
was erected in 1510, by Bishop Brown, for the main-
tenance of seven aged men, each of whom had a free
house, with five bolls of meal, and an allowance of five
merks annually. The building was destroyed in the
conflagration of the city in 1689, and some good houses
were erected on the site, of which several were after-
wards sold ; the rent of the remainder is distributed in
meal among the bedesmen, under the patronage of the
commissary. A chapel dedicated to St. Ninian was
founded in 1420, by Bishop Cardney, who endowed it
with the lands of Mucklarie, the rents of which are now
paid to the rector of the royal school ; there are no
remains of the building, and the site is occupied by the
houses in Atholl-street. On the summit of an eminence
to the east of the town, not far from St. Ninian's, was
a chapel dedicated to Jerome, and called the Red Chapel ;
the site is inclosed by a stone wall, but there are no
remains of the edifice. The ruins of the ancient castle
of Rotmel were removed about the beginning of the
present century, when numerous coins were found in
digging up the foundation. To the east of the city is an
extensive tract called the Craigwood, in the centre of
which is an eminence commanding a fine view of the
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DUNK
town and the several passes of the vale of Atholl. On
the side of Craig-y-barns are two caves overlooking
the King's Pass, of which one was an ancient hermitage,
and the other the abode of a noted robber who was shot
on his return from the well of St. Columba ; and on
the east side is another, called the Duchess Cave, which
till lately was neatly fitted up. There are also several
caves on the back hills of Dowally, which were inha-
bited for many months after the battle of Culloden.
DUNKELD, LITTLE, a parish, in the county of
Perth, adjoining Dunkeld, and containing, with the
village of Inver, 2718 inhabitants. This parish, which
includes the ancient parish of Laganallachy, is bounded
on the north-east by the Tay, and is about six-
teen miles in length, and from five to six in extreme
breadth, comprising 23,200 acres, of which about 7500
are under cultivation, 3204 woodland and plantations,
and the remainder waste. The lands are divided into
three districts, Murthly, Strathbran, and the Bishopric,
the last so called from having formerly belonged to the
ancient see of Dunkeld. The district of Murthly ex-
tends from the parish of Kinclaven on the east to the
village of Inver, and includes the hill of Birnam. The
district of Strathbran extends from Inver to Amulrie on
the west, for nearly nine miles, and is watered by the
river Bran, from whicn it takes its name ; and the
Bishopric stretches from Inver for almost ten miles
along the Tay. The surface is strikingly diversified with
ranges of hills, of which that of Birnam, on the south,
rises in stately grandeur to a. considerable elevation, em-
bracing an extensive view of the adjacent country j the
hill of Craigvinian, on the western bank of the Tay,
also commands some finely-varied prospects. The river
Bran has its source in Loch Freuchy, on the southern
border of the parish, and in its precipitous and romantic
course forms several picturesque cascades ; it flows into
the Tay nearly opposite the town of Dunkeld. There
are also a few lakes, chiefly in the mountain district, all
of which abound with excellent trout, and in Loch
Skiack are found pike of considerable size. The soil
varies extremely in different parts of this extensive
parish ; in the eastern portions it is generally a rich
black loam, and in other districts partly sand and partly
gravel. The crops are, barley, bear, and oats, with
turnips and potatoes, of which last great quantities are
raised, and sent to the London markets, where, from
the excellence of their quality, they obtain a decided
preference. Considerable numbers of black-cattle are
reared in the Highland districts of the parish, and sent
to the southern markets ; and many sheep, usually of
the black-faced breed, are fed by the various tenants.
There are extensive woods and plantations in Murthly
and the Bishopric ; the prevailing trees are, oak, ash,
Scotch fir, larch, and plane, with birch and hazel. The
coppices of oak are cut down as they successively attain
the growth of twenty years, and produce a valuable
return by the sale of the bark, in the preparation of
which many of the population are employed during the
summer months. Great quantities of Scotch fir, also,
of large girth, are sent to England for ship-building,
and timber for railroads and other purposes. Near
Murthly is a quarry of fine freestone, from which was
raised the stone for the cathedral of Dunkeld, and more
recently, for the erection of the bridge at that place
across the Tay ; there is likewise a quarry of excellent
331
slate at Birnam hill, which is extensively wrought. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £8960.
Murthly Castle is beautifully situated on the south
bank of the river, in a finely-w-ooded and ample de-
mesne rising in bold undulations, and comprehending
much picturesque scenery ; a handsome modern man-
sion has been begun by the proprietor in front of the
castle, and various improvements have been made in
the grounds. Dalguise. is an ancient mansion with,
modern additions, pleasantly situated on the road to
Taymouth : Kinnaird House stands on an eminence over-
looking the Tay, in grounds tastefully laid out, and
abounding with romantic scenery. Birnam Lodge and
Birnam Cottage are both pleasant houses nearly opposite
to Dunkeld ; and a handsome seat in the cottage style,
beautifully situated on the western acclivity of Torwood,
has been recently built by Mr. Wallace, of Perth. There
are numerous hamlets in the parish, few of which can
be regarded as villages, with the exception of Inver,
itself a small village, situated at the influx of the river
Bran into the Tay, and, previously to the erection of
the bridge, the station of a ferry across that river.
This village is much frequented by parties visiting the
romantic scenery in its vicinity. Among its principal
attractions are, the Rumbling Bridge, thrown over a deep
chasm in which the Bran, rushing with impetuous
violence among the rocks, forms a romantic cascade ;
and Ossians Seat, or the Hermitage, situated on the
north bank of the Bran, in the woods of the Duke of
Atholl, and close to which is a natural cascade of less
romantic, but more picturesque, appearance. Near the
village is a saw-mill driven by water equivalent to
twenty-four horse power, where a considerable number
of persons are employed. There are several fishing-
stations on the Tay, in which salmon and salmon-trout
were formerly taken in abundance ; but the quantity
for some years has been rapidly decreasing, and the
fisheries at present yield but a very inconsiderable rent
to the proprietors. Facility of communication is afforded
by excellent turnpike-roads, of which those in the dis-
tricts of Strathbran and the Bishopric pass for ten miles,
and that in the eastern district for four miles, through
the parish ; and about half-way between Dunkeld and
Amulrie, a bridge has been built over the river Bran.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Dunkeld and synod of
Perth and Stirling ; patron, the Crown. The minister's
stipend is £157. 10., with a manse, and the glebes of
this place and Laganallachy together are valued at
£18 per annum. The parish church, situated near the
south bank of the Tay, was built in 179S, and is a neat
plain structure containing 820 sittings. The church
of Laganallachy, in the district of Strathbran, has
about 450 sittings ; and divine service is performed
there one Sunday in the month, wholly in the Gaelic
language. There is a Roman Catholic chapel attached
to Murthly Castle, recently fitted up by the proprie-
tor. Two parochial schools are supported ; the master
of the one has a salary of £29. 18., with about £10
arising from the fees, and the master of the other
a salary of £10, with £10 fees, and both have houses
and gardens rent free. There are also three schools
connected with the Society for Propagating Christian
Knowledge, the masters of which have salaries of £15
each ; and, the schools being situated in populous dis-
2 U2
DU N L
DUNL
tricts, the amount of fees is considerable. A small
parochial library is supported by subscription. John
Stewart, Esq., of Grandtully, about the commencement
of the last century, bequeathed £20,000 merks Scotch
for the maintenance of twelve poor men of the Episco-
palian Church ; and in 1740, a building for their re-
ception was erected on the lands of Murthly ; but the
original purpose of the testator was not carried into
effect, and the property consequently accumulated to
the sum of £2609 sterling, of which the interest is
divided among poor persons of this and the neighbour-
ing parishes. There are several Druidical remains ; and
on the farm of Balinloan is a remarkable stone called
Clach-a-mhoid, where it is said a baron in the vicinity
held his court. Two very large trees are still standing
near the church, said to be the only remains of Birnam
Forest, and on a plain near the bank of the Bran are
the ruins of the castle of Trochery, an ancient residence
of the Gowrie family.
DUNLICHTY, county of Inverness. — See Daviot.
DUNLOP, a parish, chiefly in the district of Cun-
ningham e, county of Ayr, but partly in the Upper
ward of the county of Renfrew, 2-§ miles (N. N. W.)
from Stewarton; containing 1150 inhabitants. This
place deriyes its name, signifying in the Gaelic language
a " winding hill," from the situation of its ancient
castle on the summit of a hill, of which the base was
surrounded by a small river. The parish is about seven
miles in length, and two in average breadth, and com- •
prises 6554 acres, of which 5S3-1 are arable, 130 wood-
land and plantations, and the remainder hill pasture,
moss, and waste. The surface is gently undulated, and
though rather elevated, in no part attains a height of
more than 150 feet above the level of the sea; the
highest hills are those of Craignaught and Knockmead,
towards the north-east, which command some pleasing
and richly-varied prospects over the adjacent country.
From Bruckenheugh, about a mile to the south of. the
church, the view embraces the wooded district between
this parish and the sea, the shores of the Frith of Clyde
with their numerous bays and promontories, the lofty
mountains of Arran, with Ailsa Craig and the hills of
Ireland in the distance. There are many springs of
excellent water, and the lands are intersected with va-
rious streams, of which the principal is the Lugton ;
it has its source in Loch Libo, in Renfrewshire, and,
after a course of about fifteen miles, in which it forms a
boundary between this parish and that of Beith, flows
into the river Garnock near Kilwinning. The Glassert
burn runs through the centre of the parish, dividing it
into two equal parts, and, receiving several streamlets in
its course, falls into the Annack ; Corsehill burn is also
a small stream, separating the parish from that of
Stewarton. Lugton burn abounds with trout and pike ;
trout are also found in the other streams, and in the
Glassert char used formerly to be taken in abundance,
but they have now totally disappeared. Halket loch, for-
merly covering about ten acres, has been drained within
the last few years, and is now a luxuriant meadow.
The soil is generally of a clayey retentive quality, but
fertile, and under proper management very productive ;
in the southern parts of the parish a rich loam is pre-
valent, and in the higher lands are some patches of
moss. The principal crop is oats, with a few acres of
wheat ; barley and bear are raised for home consump-
332
tion, and also small quantities of potatoes and turnips,
for which, however, the soil is not well adapted. The
system of agriculture is improving ; the rotation plan of
husbandry is adopted, and the draining of the lands,
hitherto much neglected, is now growing into general
practice. The dairy-farms are the chief objects of
attention with the farmers, and the cheese produced
has long been distinguished for its quality ; it differs
from other kinds mainly in its being made of unskimmed
milk, a practice originally introduced here by Barbara
Gilmour, from which circumstance all cheese made in a
similar manner has obtained the distinctive appellation
of Dunlop cheese. About 25,000 stone are annually
produced in the parish, and find a ready sale in the
various markets. Great attention is paid to the rearing
of cattle, which are all of the Ayrshire or Cunninghame
breed ; the sheep are generally the Leicestershire :
about 900 milch-cows are kept for the dairy. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £8493. There are no
natural woods ; the plantations consist of larch, Scotch
fir, ash, elm, beech, and plane, and on the larger pro-
perties they are well attended to, and are in a flourish-
ing state. The substrata are, claystone passing into
porphyry and amygdaloid, with occasional masses of
greenstone and basalt ; limestone, sandstone, and coal.
The limestone, which abounds with petrified shells, is
quarried at Laigh-Gameshill ; it occurs in seams of
about sixteen feet in thickness, and being of excellent
quality about 5000 bolls are annually raised, part of
, which is burnt on the spot. Limestone is also wrought
in other parts of the parish, but to a comparatively
small extent. The coal, of which only a few cart-loads
have been removed, was found to be of so inferior a
quality that it was not thought advisable to continue the
working of it : the greenstone and freestone have been
quarried in several places for building purposes and for
making dykes for inclosing the lands, and also to fur-
nish materials for the furrow-drains.
Dunlop House, a spacious and elegant mansion in the
early English style, is beautifully situated on the bank
of the Corsehill burn, in a deeply-sequestered spot, and
embosomed in a richly-planted demesne. The village,
which is pleasant, consists principally of one street,
neatly built ; a subscription library has been established,
and there is also a library in connexion with a Sabbath
school, which contains about 250 volumes. The inha-
bitants of the village are partly employed in the various
trades requisite for the supply of the parish, and many
of them are engaged as cbeese-factors for the neigh-
bouring districts, which they supply not only with the
produce of Dunlop, but also with that of other places in
the county of Ayr. Fairs for the sale of dairy stock
and agricultural produce are held on the second Friday
in May (O. S.) and the 12th of November, at both of
which a considerable quantity of business is transacted.
The parish is in the presbytery of Irvine and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the Earl of
Eglinton. The minister's stipend is £2 1 5, with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £20 per annum. The church,
erected in 1S36 to replace the ancient building, which
had become too small for the increased population, is a
neat and substantial edifice adapted for a congregation
of 830 persons. The parochial school is well conducted ;
the master has a salary of £25. 13., with £18 fees, a
house, and £2. 2. in lieu of a garden. The present school-
DUNN
DUNN
house was erected in 1840 : the old one, yet standing,
was built in 1641 by James, Viscount Clandeboyes, by
whom, according to the inscription in front, it would
appear to have been endowed ; but nothing is known
of the funds appropriated to that purpose. At Chapel
House, about half a mile from the village, were the ruins
of an ancient chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary,
which have been removed within the last few years.
The castle of Dunlop, which was taken down to make
room for the present modern mansion, was of great
antiquity ; but both the date and the original founder
are unknown. Aiket Castle, about a mile to the south
of the church, was for many centuries prior to the
year 1700 inhabited by a branch of the Cunninghame
family : the original tower, which was four stories in
height, and of which the lower story has a vaulted roof
of stone, has been lowered to make it correspond with
the additional buildings requisite for converting it into
a dwelling-house. The learned John Major, the tutor
of John Knox, and professor of theology in the univer-
sity of Glasgow, was vicar of Dunlop ; and James
Hamilton, Viscount Clandeboyes, was born in the parish,
of which his father was vicar. Lieutenant-General
James Dunlop, of Dunlop, father of the present pro-
prietor, was eminently distinguished in his military
profession ; his mother was the early friend and cor-
respondent of the poet Burns.
DUNMORE, a village, in the parish of Airth,
county of Stirling, 8 miles (E. by S.) from Stirling;
containing 153 inhabitants. It is situated on the south-
west side of the Frith of Forth, and on the road from
Airth to Stirling, and has a harbour, now a calling-place
for the Stirling steamers. The village is small and of
rather mean appearance, but the scenery around it is
peculiarly beautiful, and the high grounds in the vicinity
finely contrast with the almost level plain of the rest of
the parish. Formerly an extensive coal-mine was in
operation, but the works were relinquished about the
year 1S10, when more than thirty families removed
from the neighbourhood. Dunmore Park is the hand-
some seat of the Earl of Dunmore, the head of a branch
of the noble family of Murray, dukes of Atholl, Lord
Charles Murray, second son of John, first marquess of
Atholl, having been created, in 16S6, Earl of Dunmore,
Viscount Fincastle, and Lord Murray of Blair, Moulin,
and Tillemot. The present mansion was erected about
twenty years since ; it is a large building in the Eliza-
bethan style, and stands on an expansive lawn, sur-
rounded by grounds tastefully laid out, and richly
planted with timber of various kinds andagrowth. Here
is an ancient tower, one of three in the parish. On
the summit of Dunmore hill, which is of considerable
height, are the remains of a strong fortification ; and in
digging a few years since, an anchor was found im-
bedded in the soil, at least half a mile from the present
course of the river.
DUNNET, a sea-port and parish, in the county of
Caithness, 9 miles (E. N. E.) from Thurso ; containing
1880 inhabitants. This parish, of which the origin of
the name is involved in obscurity, is one of the most
northerly in Scotland, and is about ten miles in length,
and varies in breadth from two to four miles. It is
bounded on the south by the parish of Bower, on the
south-west by that of Olrig, on the east by Cannisbay,
and on the north and north-west by the Pentland Frith,
333
into which projects the extensive promontory of Dunnet
Head. This head consists of numerous hills and valleys,
covered with fine pasture for cattle and sheep, and
throughout its whole extent of coast, which is about
nine miles, presents a front of broken rocks to the sea
from 100 to 400 feet high ; an isthmus of low land,
about two miles broad, connects it with the rest of the
parish, but it is entirely uninhabited. A large number
of sea-fowl, especially the layer or puffin, visit it during
the season of incubation. The shore to the east of
Dunnet Head is low and rocky, and the current of the
Frith during spring tides is so exceedingly strong that
no vessel can stem it, from which circumstance, and the
velocity of contiguous currents in opposite directions,
the navigation here is dangerous to strangers. The bay
of Dunnet, though it runs far into the land, affords no
shelter for any vessel on the north side, it being ex-
posed to the west ; but along the Frith are several good
havens for small craft, and of these, Brough, and Ham
or Holm havens are considered capable of great im-
provement. In the interior, the parish is of level sur-
face, there being scarcely an eminence deserving the
name of a hill. The larger portion consists of moss
and moor, and the soil in the cultivated parts is in
general of a light nature, with little clay or loam ; in
some places it is sandy, and in others a light black earth
and rich clay. Adjoining the shore east of Dunnet bay, is
a barren tract nearly two miles in breadth, which is said
to have been formerly arable ground. The rock forma-
tion at Dunnet Head is freestone, and throughout the
rest of the parish it is grey slate : at Inkstack are
some quarries of flagstone, supplying materials for
pavements, of which considerable quantities are shipped
for the south. The rateable annual value of Dunnet is
£4268.
The parish contains the three villages of Dunnet,
Brough, and Scarfskerry, of which a part of the popula-
tion is engaged in salmon-fishing, carried on, particu-
larly in Dunnet bay, for the last ten or twelve years
with great success ; there is also a lobster-fishery, for
the supply of the London market ; and cod, haddock,
flounders, halibut, and skate are also obtained. There
are four fairs, of which the principal is Marymas, held
on the Tuesday after August 15th (O. S.) ; it continues
two days, and is almost exclusively a cattle and horse
fair : the others are held on the first and third Tues-
days in October, and first Tuesday in April (O. S.) for
cattle. Cattle are also conveyed by steamers to the
Leith and Edinburgh markets ; grain is generally shipped
to the same quarter, and meal is sent to the weekly mar-
kets of Wick and Thurso. The ecclesiastical affairs
of the parish are under the presbytery of Caithness and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness ; patron, Sir James
Colquhoun, Bart. The stipend of the minister is £191,
with a manse, and a glebe of the annual value of £12.
The church, which is very ancient, is a plain oblong
building, with a tower at the west end ; in 1S36-7 it
underwent a thorough repair, having been re-roofed,
and enlarged by a capacious aisle, and it is now a com-
modious and comfortable place of worship. In the
parochial school are taught the ordinary branches of
education ; the master has the maximum salary, with
about £10 from fees, and a house and garden. Another
school is supported by the General Assembly, and a
third partly by Mr. Traill, on whose property it is built,
DUNN
DUNN
and partly by fees < there are also two female schools,
aided by the respective heritors and the Kirk Session.
In 1764, William Sinclair, Esq., of Freswick, bequeathed
an annuity of £5. 11. for the poor of the parish; and
the late Messrs. Oswald, of Glasgow, left £600, now
vested in laud, for the same purpose. A lighthouse has
been built on Dunnet Head, and was first lighted on the
1st October, 1S31 ; it stands on a precipice, about 300
feet above the level of the sea; and from the ground is
sixty-one feet in height. It has already proved of great
service in preventing shipwreck and guiding vessels
through the Frith.
DUNNICHEN, a parish, in the county of Forfar ;
including the villages of Bowriefauld, Cotton of Lownie,
Craichie, Drummetermont, and Letham ; and contain-
ing 1625 inhabitants, of whom 54 are in the village of
Dunnichen, 3| miles (E. S. E.) from Forfar. This place,
which is of considerable antiquity, derives its name,
signifying in the Gaelic language " the hill or fort of the
valley," from a prominent hill overlooking the vale of
Lunan, and on which are still some remains of an
ancient fort of loose stones, though the greater part has
been removed to furnish materials for inclosing the
lands. A battle is supposed to have been fought here
at some remote period, which tradition refers to the
time of Arthur, king of the Britons ; but no authentic
account of it has been recorded, though numerous
graves, evidently of warriors, have at various times been
discovered by the plough, filled with human bones, and
some of them containing urns of red clay rudely orna-
mented, and holding ashes. The parish contains 4024^
Scotch acres : the surface is gently undulated, rising in
some places into hills, of which the two highest are,
Dunnichen hill, having an elevation of about S00, and
Dunbarrow, an elevation of 700, feet above the level of
the sea. The former hill, which is cultivated from its
base to the summit, and interspersed with thriving plan-
tations, forms a pleasing feature in the landscape, and
commands a richly-varied and extensive prospect over
the whole vale of Lunan to the east, and Forfar and
Strathmore to the west, the view terminating in the
distance in the Grampian range. The Vinney water,
which has its source in the parish of Forfar, collects
various inconsiderable tributaries in its course through
this parish, and falls into the Lunan in Kirkden. A
loch formerly covered an area of fifty acres, but it has
been partially drained, and converted into pasture land ;
on the north side of it is a small chalybeate spring,
strongly impregnated, and near the base of Dunbarrow
is a much more copious spring, of similar quality but
less power.
The soil in the higher grounds is a shallow friable
loam intermixed with sand, which becomes deeper and
richer towards the lower lands, where is generally a
clayey loam. Of the whole number of acres 3112 are
arable, 400 in plantations, and the remainder, of which
about 500 acres might be reclaimed and brought into
cultivation, is rough pasture and waste. The usual
crops are, grain of all kinds, potatoes, and turnips ; the
system of agriculture is in an advanced state ; bone-dust
has been introduced for manure on turnip land, and
shell-marl, by which the soil in many parts has been
much improved, is procured in abundance from the lake
of Restenneth, in the parish of Forfar. Considerable
attention is paid to the improvement of live stock, and
the dairy-farms are well managed ; the cattle are chiefly
the Galloway, with a few of the Fife and Teeswater
breeds. No sheep are reared, but great numbers are
sent hither from the Grampians to feed on turnips
during the winter, and many cattle of all breeds, bought
at the neighbouring fairs, are pastured here. The plan-
tations, being duly thinned, are in a flourishing state.
The substrata of the parish are chiefly sandstone or
freestone, with portions of greenstone occurring occa-
sionally, and in detached situations ; the sandstone
frequently contains rounded pebbles of jasper, quartz,
and agate. In the trap rocks of Dunbarrow is often
found a siliceous incrustation, in which rock crystals are
imbedded, and in and near the summit of Dunnichen
are several masses of granite and mica-slate. The sand-
stone, which is generally of a greyish white, and some-
times inclining to blue, is extensively quarried at Dun-
nichen : it produces excellent millstones and other
blocks of very large dimensions, which may be easily
cut, and are susceptible of a high polish, but, if suffered
to remain long after being taken from the quarry, ac-
quire a degree of hardness that bids defiance to any
tool. The rateable annual value of the parish is £4600.
Dunnichen House is pleasantly situated on the south-
ern slope of the hill, near its base, and commands an
extensive and pleasingly-varied view ; the demesne is
richly planted, and is rapidly improving under the
spirited management of its proprietor. The principal
manufacture carried on in the parish is the weaving of
coarse linen-cloth called Osnaburghs, and linens of finer
texture for sheeting and shirting. Fairs are held at
Letham twice in the year, for cattle, and the hiring
of farm-servants ; and a fair is also held in the Kirk-
ton on the third Wednesday in March, O. S. The
roads formerly afforded very few facilities of communi-
cation with the neighbouring places ; but a new road
from Dundee to Brechin has been completed, greatly
tending to increase the intercourse with the larger
towns. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the su-
perintendence of the presbytery of Forfar and synod
of Angus and Mearns ; patron, the Crown. The stipend
of the incumbent is £158, of which £38 are received
from government; the manse was built in 1815, in a
very superficial manner ; the glebe land is valued at
£11 per annum. The church, seated on an eminence
in the small hamlet of Kirkton, was erected in 1.802, but
from the dampness of the situation, and the bad con-
struction of the roof, which was covered with flags of
sandstone, it was found necessary, in 1817, to cover it
with a new roof of slate ; it is a plain edifice adapted
for a congregation of 456 persons. There are places of
worship for members of the Free Church and Con-
gregationalists ; the linen-hall of the village of Letham
is also appropriated as a place of worship by Seceders.
The parochial school, situated in the hamlet of Crai-
chie, affords a liberal course of instruction ; the master
has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the
fees average about £6 per annum. On the area of
the ancient fort was found, after the removal of the
stones of the building, a thick bed of ashes mixed with
numerous human bones, and in one part was discovered
a number of small golden balls thought to have been
the current coin of the realm at the period of its erec-
tion. The late George Dempster, Esq., for many years
representative of the county, was a native of the place.
DUNN
DUNN
DUNNING, a parish, in the county of Perth ; in-
cluding the village of Newtown of Pitcairns, and con-
taining 2128 inhabitants, of whom 1068 are in the
village of Dunning, 9 miles (W. S. W.) from Perth. This
parish, supposed to take its name from the Gaelic term
dim, signifying a hill or fort, contains the remains of
three military stations called Ardargie, Rossie Law,
and Ternavie, which are thought to have belonged to a
line of forts constructed by Agricola along the northern
base of the Ochil hills, where the parish lies, and
stretching to Ardoch, and thence to the -wall of Anto-
ninus. This supposition is corroborated by the cir-
cumstance of Roman armour and numerous human
bones having been dug up in the locality ; and the
proximity of the Pictish station Forteviot, and the traces
of many fortifications, lead to the conclusion that this
was subsequently the arena of several sanguinary con-
flicts. The family of Rollo, descended from Eric de
Rollo, who came over with William the Conqueror as
secretary, were first located in this place, where they
have since remained, in the time of David I., who gave
considerable possessions to Richard de Rollo, a son or
grandson of Eric : the estate in 1512 was erected into
a free barony, and in 1651 Sir Andrew Rollo, Knt.,
was created by Charles II. Baron Rollo, of Duncruib,
the name of the property belonging to this ancient
family. The village of Dunning was burnt to the ground
in January, 1716, with many others, by the Earl of Mar,
in order to arrest the progress of the royal troops ;
and to perpetuate the remembrance of this a thorn-tree
was planted, which is still in a flourishing condition,
and an object of curiosity and veneration.
The parish extends in length about seven miles, from
north to south, and four in breadth, comprehending an
extensive tract of cultivated land, and 200 acres of
plantations : one-third of the whole lies among the
Ochil hills, in which rises the Dunning, a stream that
falls, after a rapid course over a gravelly bed, into the
river Earn. A lake called the White Moss, situated in
the western portion, containing many small fish, and
frequented by large flocks of wild ducks, covers about
eleven acres of ground, and forms, with the lively burn,
a pleasing and interesting object in the general scenery ;
and the lofty Ochils, depastured by numerous flocks
of sheep, and here stretching along the south-eastern
boundary of the county, exhibit a bold and striking
outline, replete with romantic features which can
scarcely fail to captivate the admirer of the beauties
of nature. The soil along the banks of the Earn is
light and sandy, but in the other parts generally clayey
or gravelly, and the crops are raised under the rotation
system. The farm-houses are commodious, and roofed
with slate ; among the improvements carried on, that
of draining marshy grounds has been extensively prac-
tised, and several tracts, especially one called the White
Bog, have been converted into good arable land. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £9000. Quarries
of common stone, of firm texture, are open in several
parts, and a bed of white freestone has been lately
discovered ; whinstone is abundant in the Ochils, and
fragments of quartz are carried along the streams. The
plantations are detached and of small extent, and con-
sist of oak, fir, ash, elm, and poplar : the garden be-
longing to the mansion of Duncruib, the seat of Lord
Rollo, is ornamented with a fine spruce-tree, planted in
335
1/07, of great bulk, elevation, and beauty. The modern
residences are the houses of Pitcairns and Garvock.
The village of Dunning is held in feu from Lord Rollo,
and is governed by a baron-bailie ; it has many good
houses, a public reading-room, and a post-office, and in
place of a gaol there is an instrument of punishment
called the jougs. A large proportion of the population
of the parish are cotton-weavers, and obtain work from
Glasgow; a wool-mill employs many hands, and there
are three corn-mills, a flour-mill, a saw-mill, two malt-
mills, a distillery, and a brewery. Three fairs are an-
nually held. The parish is in the presbytery of Auch-
terarder and synod of Perth and Stirling, and in the
patronage of the Earl of Kinnoull ; the minister's stipend
is £239, with a manse, and a glebe of eight and a quarter
acres, valued at £20 per annum. The church, which
was rebuilt in 1810, is conveniently situated in the
village, and contains 1000 sittings, all free. The mem-
bers of the Free Church have a place of worship ; and
there are two meeting-houses belonging to the United
Associate Synod, one to Original Seceders, and one to the
Relief persuasion. The parochial school affords instruc-
tion in Latin and the ordinary branches ; the master
has the maximum salary, with about £50 fees.
DUNNOTTAR, a parish, in the county of Kincar-
dine ; containing, with the village of Crawton, and a por-
tion of the town of Stonehaven, 1873 inhabitants. This
place, of which the Gaelic name is descriptive of the situa-
tion of its ancient castle on a peninsular promontory, ap-
pears to have been distinguished as the scene of some im-
portant, events connected with the history of the country.
The castle is by some writers supposed to have been
originally founded by the Picts, to whom the great tower,
which is evidently the most ancient part of the structure,
is traditionally attributed, but the earliest authentic
notice of it occurs during the contest between Bruce
and Baliol, when Wallace, who had assumed the regency,
wrested it from the English, by whom it was garrisoned.
Some records in the possession of the Marischals assign
the erection of the castle to Sir William Keith, an ances-
tor of that family, who in the fourteenth century obtained
permission to construct a fortress on the site, on condi-
tion of building a church in a more convenient situation,
in lieu of the ancient parish church, which stood within the
precincts of the present ruins. The fortress was one of
the strongest in the country, and remained for many ages
in possession of the family of Keith, the first of whom,
in the reign of Malcolm II., having killed in battle the
Danish general Comus, had been rewarded with a grant
of lands in Lothian, and invested with the title of Great
Marischal of Scotland. During the parliamentary w7ar
in the reign of Charles I., the regalia were for security
deposited in the castle, which General Ogilvy, who was
then in command, defended for more than six months
against the forces of Cromwell, under General Lambert,
in 1651, till, severely pressed by famine, he was compelled
to capitulate, having previously conveyed the regalia in
safety to Kinneff, through the assistance of the governor's
lady, and Mrs. Granger, wife of the minister of that
parish, where they were concealed under the pulpit of
the church till the Restoration. For this service, the
king created the earl-marischal's second son Earl of
Kintore, and invested the general with the title of
baronet. George, the last earl-marischal, having joined
in the rebellion of 1715, the title and estates of the
DUNN
D U NO
family were forfeited to the crown ; and the castle, which
had been previously purchased by government, was
dismantled, and has since been a ruin.
The parish is situated on the road from Aberdeen to
Edinburgh ; it is bounded on the north by the parish of
Fetterresso, on the east by the German Ocean, on the
south by the parish of Kinneff, and on the west by that
of Glenbervie. The surface is boldly diversified with
hills, of which Carmount, at the extremity of an exten-
sive heath of that name, has an elevation of more than
S00 feet, and with successive ridges for nearly three
miles towards the north-west. The coast, is abruptly
precipitous, consisting of a range of cliffs in detached
masses, rising from 150 to 300 feet in height. In these
cliffs are numerous caverns worn by the action of the
waves, of which one, called the Long Gallery, under a
lofty promontory, extends for more than 150 yards in
length, and affords a channel through which a boat may
pass from the bay at its entrance to another at its outlet.
To the south of this cavern is Fowlsheugh, the highest of
the rocks on this part of the coast, and the haunt of
numbers of aquatic birds of every description, that
build their nests and hatch their young in these almost
inaccessible heights. The entire number of acres is
8156, of which 4S60 are arable, 690 woodland and plan-
tations, and 2606 natural pasture and uncultivated waste;
the soil is various, consisting in different parts of clay,
loam, sand, and gravel, and being frequently found in all
these varieties on the same farm. The system of agri-
culture has been much improved, and the rotation plan
of husbandry is in use ; much unprofitable land has been
brought into cultivation; the farm-buildings are in general
substantial and commodious, and great attention is paid
to live stock. There are few sheep reared ; the cattle are
usually of the black kind, and are mostly sold when two
years old. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£8768. The woods are, oak, ash, and beech, of which
there are many fine specimens, on the lands of Auquhirie;
and the plantations, whereof the most extensive are on the
estate of General Forbes, are, pine, larch, and Scotch
and spruce firs, intermixed with various kinds of hard-
wood, all of which, with the exception of the Scotch fir,
thrive well. The moorlands abound with every kind of
game; partridges in great numbers, and some few phea-
sants, are found, and snipes, wild ducks, and teal are
plentiful. The rocks on the coast are for the greater
part of the pudding-stone formation, with portions of
trap and porphyritic granite, and occasionally of columnar
basalt ; sandstone is extensively quarried, and a species
of flag, formerly in use for roofing, is also wrought to a
moderate extent. Dunnottar House, the seat of General
Forbes, is a spacious mansion surrounded with rich and
flourishing plantations ; the grounds are tastefully laid
out, and the gardens attached to the house were formed at
an expense of £10,000. Barras, the ancient seat of the
Ogilvys, is now a farm-house. The weaving of linen is
carried on to a small extent, and many of the inhabitants
are engaged in the fisheries and other branches of trade in
the town of Stonehaven : Crawton, in the south-eastern
portion of the parish, is chiefly inhabited by persons em-
ployed in the white-fishery, which is extensively carried
on off this part of the coast. Facility of communication
with the neighbouring markets is afforded by good roads
in every direction ; along the sea- coast is the high road
to Edinburgh, and the Strathmore turnpike-road passes
336
through the interior of the parish. The ecclesiastical
affairs are under the superintendence of the presbytery
of Fourdoun and synod of Angus and Mearns ; the minis-
ter's stipend is £233, with a manse, and a glebe valued
at £8 per annum ; patron, the Crown. The church,
erected on the site of the former building in 1789, is a
neat and commodious structure pleasingly situated. The
parochial school is in Stonehaven, and is well attended ;
the master has a salary of £34, with a house and gar-
den, and the fees average £46. The remains of Dun-
nottar Castle are very extensive, occupying an area of
five acres on the summit of an abrupt and precipitous
cliff, boldly projecting from the mainland, with which it
is connected by an isthmus nearly covered by the sea at
high water; the great tower is still almost entire ; and
the various ranges of building, which, though roofless, are
in tolerable preservation, convey an impressive idea of
its former grandeur and importance. In the church-
yard is a gravestone to the memory of some Covenanters
who were confined in the castle; and here Sir Walter
Scott, then on a visit to the minister of the parish, is said
to have had his first interview with the individual whom,
in his Antiquary, he describes under the appellation of
" Old Mortality."
DUNOON" and KILMUN, a parish, in the district
of Cowal, county of Argyll, 7\ miles (W. byS.) from
Greenock; containing 4211 inhabitants. The early his-
tory of this parish is involved in great obscurity, and
rests chiefly on tradition. Its castle, of which neither
the date nor the founder is distinctly known, anciently
belonged to the hereditary high stewards of Scot-
land, to whom Malcolm gave a grant of lands in the
district in the eleventh century. During the contested
succession to the throne, the castle was besieged by
Baliol, to whom it surrendered in 1333; but in the fol-
lowing year it was re-captured by Robert Bruce, and
placed under the custody of the Campbells, ancestors
of the Argyll family, who were appointed hereditary
constables, and also lords of Cowal. The Earl of Len-
nox, while seeking to become regent of the kingdom,
appeared in the Clyde with a fleet, in 1554, and, having
made himself master of Rothesay, proceeded to this
place, and laid siege to the castle, which was held by his
powerful opponent, Archibald, Earl of Argyll, whom he
compelled to retreat with severe loss. In 1563, Mary,
Queen of Scots, paid a visit to the Countess of Argyll,
in her progress through the west, and, during her resi-
dence here, granted several charters to the inhabitants
of the district, which are still extant. The castle con-
tinued in the possession of the earls of Argyll till the
end of the seventeenth century, since which time it has
been suffered to fall into ruin : the remains consist only
of part of one of the towers, in a dilapidated state,
affording but a very inadequate idea of the original
buildings, which appear to have covered an acre of
ground. Kilmun, formerly a separate parish, is sup-
posed to have derived its name from the erection of
a church dedicated to St. Mun near the shore of the
Holy loch, upon the spot, where a stranded vessel from
the Holy Land, laden with consecrated earth for the
foundation of the cathedral of Glasgow, deposited what
portion of her cargo could be saved from the wreck.
A collegiate church was subsequently founded here, and
endowed for a provost and six prebendaries in 1442, by
Sir Duncan Campbell, of Lochawe, first lord of Argyll,
DUNO
D UN R
and grandfather of Colin Campbell, the first earl ; the
only portion now entire is the square tower, about forty-
feet in height.
Dunoon is bounded on the south and east by the
Frith of Clyde, and Kilmun by Loch Long on the east,
and partly by the Holy loch, an inlet from the Frith,
which on the south separates a portion of it from
Dunoon : the districts were united about the year 1660,
and are together 24 miles in length and from two to
nine in breadth, comprising 144 square miles. The
surface is boldly varied with hills and valleys, and
towards the shores of the Clyde, along the greater part
of it, slopes gently to a level plain ; the interior is inter-
sected with several mountainous ridges in various direc-
tions, of which that forming part of the range of hills
in the vicinity of Benmore is the most elevated. These
ranges are the boundaries of some extensive valleys
which they inclose between their steep acclivities, and
of which the principal are, Strath-Echaig, about two
miles in breadth, and extending for nearly four miles
to Loch Eck, which thence forms its continuation for
about seven miles ; Glenfinart, three miles in length, and,
like the former, richly wooded ; and Glenmassan ; all
abounding with romantic scenery. Numerous moun-
tain streams, many of them having pleasing cascades,
traverse the parish ; but the only one that can be called
a river is the Echaig, which issues from Loch Eck,
and, after a course of about four miles through the vale
of Echaig, in which it receives the Massan and another
stream, falls into the Holy loch. Loch Eck, of which
about one-half is within the parish, is nearly seven
miles in length, and half a mile broad ; the banks are
precipitous and well wooded, and the scenery around
beautifully diversified. The soil is generally a light
sandy loam of no great depth, and in some parts of the
valleys deeper and of richer quality. The crops are,
oats, a very little barley, potatoes, and turnips ; wheat
was formerly raised but has been abandoned : the pas-
tures are good, and great attention is paid to live stock.
The system of agriculture is improved ; the lands in
cultivation are well drained, and considerable tracts of
waste have been reclaimed and rendered productive.
The cattle are of the West Highland breed, with the
exception of some of the Ayrshire on the dairy-farms ;
and the sheep of the black-faced kind, with a few of
the Leicestershire and Cheviot breeds. The substrata
are chiefly mica and clay slate, sandstone of the old red
formation, and in some parts limestone, but of very
inferior quality ; there are quarries of slate and free-
stone, but they are not extensively wrought. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £15,754.
The principal seat is Castle Toward, a handsome
mansion in the later English style, erected by the late
Kirkman Finlay, Esq., and situated in an ample and
richly-wooded demesne, commanding extensive and
varied prospects. Hafton House is in the Elizabethan
style, and beautifully seated on the western shore of the
Holy loch, in an extensive park embracing fine views
of the Frith. Glenfinart House is a spacious modern
building iu the old English style, erected on the site of
a mansion occupied by the late Earl of Duumore, on
the shore of Loch Long, at the opening of the valley of
Glenfinart : Benmore House, Bernice, and the Castle
House, near the ancient castle of Dunoon, are also
handsome mansions beautifully situated. The village
Vol. I.— 337 J
of Dunoon is on the margin of the Clyde, and is much
frequented during the summer months by parties on
excursions of pleasure ; the houses are neatly built, and
numerous pleasing villas have been erected. The small
village of Kilmun, on the northern shore of the Holy
loch, is also a place of favourite resort. Though not
recognized as a port, a pier or jetty has been con-
structed at Dunoon for the accommodation of passen-
gers by the steam-packets which touch at the place ;
and a substantial quay has also been erected at Kil-
mun. The only trade is the shipping of cattle, sheep,
and agricultural produce, for Liverpool and other English
markets ; a schooner of eighty tons' burthen was lately
built here, and is now employed in the foreign trade.
There are post-offices at Dunoon, Kilmun, and Arden-
tinny, the first having two daily deliveries in winter
and three in summer, and the others one delivery each ;
facility of communication is afforded by good roads,
and by the steamers from Glasgow, Greenock, and
other ports in the Clyde. Fairs are held on the second
Wednesday in January, February, August, and Octo-
ber, and the third Tuesday in November (O. S.).
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the super-
intendence of the presbytery of Dunoon and synod of
Argyll. The minister's stipend is £275) with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £36. 17. per annum ; patron, the
Duke of Argyll. The church at Dunoon was erected in
1816; it is a handsome structure in the later English
style, with a square embattled tower, and since its
enlargement in 1S34 contains 793 sittings. The pre-
sent church at Kilmun was erected in 1841 ; it is also
a handsome building, with a tower of loftier elevation
than that of the ancient church, which is still remain-
ing. Chapels of ease have been built at Toward and
Ardentinny, partly by subscription, aided by grants
from the Church Extension fund ; they are under the
charge of missionaries, who receive from £70 to £90
each from funds subscribed for that purpose. A third
missionary has a similar stipend for assisting the minis-
ter of the parish, who officiates alternately in each of
the two churches. There are places of worship for
members of the Free Church and the United Associate
Synod. Parochial schools are supported at Dunoon,
Kilmun, and Toward ; the master of Dunoon has a
salary of £30, of Kilmun £25, and of Toward £22, each
with a house and garden, in addition to the fees. Two
schools are maintained by the General Assembly, of
which the masters have salaries of £25 each, one at
Dalilongard, and the other at Ardentinny ; and a female
school of industry, of which the mistress has a salary of
£30, with a house and garden, is supported by an associa-
tion of ladies. There is also a school in connexion with
seceders. Some vestiges remain of what is supposed to
have been a Roman camp, on the farm of Ardinslat ;
Druidical remains still exist, and various stone coffins of
rude formation, containing skeletons in a perfect state,
have been found. There are also ruins of the castle of
Toward, the ancient baronial residence of the Lamonts.
DUNREGGAN, a village, in the parish of Glen-
cairn, county of Dumfries, 5| miles (W. S. W.) from
Penpont ; containing 277 inhabitants. It is a well-built
and thriving place, situated on the banks of the Dal-
what stream, over which is a stone bridge, forming a
communication with the village of Minnyhive : the
population has latterly considerably increased.
2 X
DUNR
DUNS
DUNROSSNESS, a parish, in the county of Shet-
land ; including the islands of Fair and Mousa, and
the late quoad sacra district of Sandwick and Cunnings-
burgh ; and containing 4494 inhabitants. This parish
is situated at the southern extremity of the Mainland,
and forms the principal part of a peninsula, washed on
the east, south, and west by the sea. The shore, though
not so deeply indented with inlets as that of most
other parts of the Shetland isles, is still very irregular
in its outline, and contains several voes ; the chief are
Greetness and West voe, which, with Quendal bay,
border on Sumburgh head, the most southerly point of
the Mainland, rendered classical by Sir Walter Scott's
Pirate, and on which an excellent lighthouse was erected
a few years since, at an expense of about £40,000.
Among the islands in the parish are those of Colsay,
Mousa, St. Ninian's, and Fair Island, which are used
chiefly for the pasturage of sheep and cattle, and, with
the exception of the last, are inconsiderable. The ex-
posure of Dunrossness is remarkably bleak and stormy,
and occasionally whole farms are destroyed by the drift-
ing of sand, and inlets filled up which before had been
used as creeks or harbours ; but the district yields to
very few, if any, in Shetland, in the fertility of its soil
and the quality of the crops. The lochs of Skelberry
and Scousburgh. in winter, are the resort of wild swans ;
and eagles, ravens, and hawks, with a great variety of
wild-fowl, frequent the shores. At this time of the
year, also, the stormy seas, and the dreary tracts of
peat-moss, invest the locality with a wild and uninviting
appearance ; but at other periods the scene is greatly
altered, and especially during the operations of harvest
and fishing every thing wears a pleasing aspect.
The soil of the lands under cultivation is various,
comprehending sand, loam, and clay, and the crops
consist principally of bear, black oats, and potatoes ;
ploughs, drawn by horses, are used in some parts, but
most of the small farms are turned by the spade, and
husbandry, as in all other districts of Shetland, is made
entirely subordinate to the occupation of fishing. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £1665. At a
place called Fit.fill, copper-ore was wrought some years
since, and shafts were also sunk at Sand-lodge, in Sand-
wick, but the operations, proving unsuccessful, were
shortly abandoned. The inhabitants are engaged in the
ordinary kinds of fishing, and three or four vessels come
annually to Levenwick bay, from Rothesay, to receive
the herrings immediately after they are taken. In addi-
tion to the trade in fish, considerable quantities of pota-
toes of very good quality, as well as of oats and bear,
are sent to Lerwick for sale; and a small profit is annu-
ally derived from the manufacture of kelp. The parish
is in the presbytery of Lerwick and synod of Shetland,
and in the patronage of the Earl of Zetland. The
minister's stipend is £208, exclusive of a vicarage-tithe
on a certain number of lambs and quantities of butter
and wool ; there is a manse, and the glebe is valued at
£8 per annum. The church was built in 1790, and
contains 858 sittings ; and on Fair isle is another church,
a substantial edifice, erected by the then proprietor of
the island, many years ago ; it affords accommodation
to about 150 persons. There are meeting-houses for
Baptists and Methodists. The parochial school is situ-
ated in the Sandwick district, and at Cunningsburgh is
a school supported by the Society for Promoting Chris-
338
tian Knowledge ; in each of those places a library has
lately been instituted, and another is established in
Dunrossness.
DUNSCORE, a parish, in the county of Dumfries,
9 miles (N. W.) from Dumfries ; containing, with the
village of Cottack, 1517 inhabitants. This place is not
remarkable for any events of historical importance,
but it was formerly the seat of some families of con-
siderable antiquity, the chief of whom were, the Grier-
sons of Lag, of Chapel, and of Dalgoner, the Kirks
or Kirkhoes of Bogrie and Sundaywell, and the Kirk-
patricks of Elliesland and Friars' Carse. The Grier-
sons possessed the tower of Lag, now a ruin, for many
generations, Gilbert M'Gregor or Grierson having mi-
grated from the Highlands about the year 1408, and
obtained the lands from John Mc Wrath, who in the
conveyance deed is described as armour-bearer to Archi-
bald, Earl of Douglas. A descendant of this family
joined the Maxwells of Nithsdale, against the John-
stones of Annandale, and fought at the famous battle of
Dryfe-Sands in 1593 ; and there is still a lineal repre-
sentative of the family remaining in the parish. Con-
siderable estates at Dunscore were given to the monks
of Melrose by Affrica, daughter of Edgar, son of Dune-
vald and grandson of Dunegal of Stranith, a term im-
plying " the strath or valley of Nith :"' Edgar had pos-
sessed the lands under William the Lion, and been
succeeded in them by his daughter, who assigned so
large a portion to the monks. The benefice of Dun-
score, however, belonged to the monastery of Holy-
wood, and the cure was served by a vicar. The parish
contains some lands called the Friars' Carse, formerly
a monkish residence dependent on the establishment of
Melrose ; a small loch on the property, containing an
artificial island, is said to have been the ancient fish-
pond, and the island the place where the monks hid their
valuables when the English invaded Stranith.
The parish is twelve miles long, and varies in breadth
from half a mile to three miles and a half, containing
12,500 acres. It is bounded on the north by the pa-
rishes of Glencairn and Keir ; on the south by the
parish of Holywood and the stewartry of Kirkcudbright;
on the east by the river Nith, which separates it from
Kirkmahoe ; and on the west by the loch and water of
Urr, dividing it from the stewartry. The surface in the
neighbourhood of the Nith is flat, but in other parts it
is greatly diversified with hills and valleys ; in the upper
district it is mountainous and rocky, and Bogrie, the
most elevated hill, rises more than 1200 feet above the
level of the Solway Frith. The Nith runs for two miles
along the boundary ; and the Cairn, a much more rapid
stream, over which is a bridge eighty feet in span
divides the parish into two parts, and, after receiving
the Clouden, falls into the Nith a little below Irongray.
The soil in the lower district is a light gravelly or sandy
earth ; the holm land on the banks of the Nith and
Cairn is alluvial ; in the upper parts the soil is mostly a
kind of loam, in a tilly subsoil, and very stony. There
are also occasional patches, as well as considerable
tracts, of peat-moss. The soil in general is thin and
dry, except on the holm land, where it is much richer
and deeper; the hills in many places are almost bare, and
exhibit on the rocky surface nothing but heath. Fully
three-fourths of the land are under cultivation ; 500
acres are meadow, 250 plantation, chiefly larch and fir,
DUNS
DUNS
and 60 natural wood, consisting of birch and oak. All
kinds of grain are raised, as well as green crops ; agri-
culture has been gradually advancing for some time
past, and improvements have been effected in every de-
partment. On the estates of Allanton, Dalgoner, Friars'
Carse, and Stroquhan, are good and substantial man-
sion-houses. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in
husbandry, but weaving is also carried on, though to
an inconsiderable extent. The Glasgow and Dumfries
turnpike-road passes through the parish, from which a
branch strikes oif at the lodge of Friars' Carse, leading
westward through Balmaclellan to New Galloway ; there
is also a road intersecting the parish from Dumfries to
Ayr. The rateable annual value of Dunscore is £S900.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the pres-
bytery of Dumfries and synod of Dumfries ; patron,
the Crown. There is a good manse, with a glebe of
fifty-one acres, and the stipend of the minister is the
minimum, with an addition of £12. 12., voluntarily given
by the heritors since 1793. The church, standing in
the village of Cottack, in the centre of the parish,
is a well-built structure, surmounted with an elegant
square tower at the west end; it was erected in 1823,
and contains 850 persons. The members of the Free
Church have a place of worship, and there is a meeting-
house belonging to the Relief Synod. Three paro-
chial schools are supported, in which the classics, with
all the usual branches of education, are taught ; about
£51 are portioned equally among the masters, who also
receive the interest of £300 bequeathed about a century
ago, by Mr. Grierson, of Edinburgh. The master of the
central school has, in addition, the interest of £50 be-
queathed in 1807 by Mrs. Janet Dobie, and of £50 left
in 1829 by Robert M'Kinnel, Esq., of Mc Murdostan,
who also at the same time left £200 for the school in
the lower district. Among the relics of antiquity are
those on Springfield hill, a considerable eminence, where
are traces of a military station, supposed to be Roman,
of an oblong form, and covering two acres of ground.
Burns, the poet, resided for several years in the parish,
at the farm of Elliesland.
DUNSE, a market-town, burgh of barony, and pa-
rish, in the county of Berwick, 15 miles (W.) from
Berwick, and 42 (S. E.) from Edinburgh; containing,
with the late quoad sacra district of Boston, 3162 inha-
bitants. This place derived its name from the situation
of the ancient town on the north-western acclivity of
the hill on the south side of which, after the destruction
of the old town, burnt by the English, the present was
erected, near the base of the eminence, towards the close
of the sixteenth century. It is neatly built ; the houses
are chiefly modern, and of good, and in some instances
of handsome, appearance ; the streets are spacious, well
paved, and lighted, and the inhabitants are amply sup-
plied with water by a committee of the feuars, at
the expense of the common property of the town.
There are neither any manufactures, nor much business
carried on here, except such handicraft trades as are
requisite for the supply of the inhabitants and the im-
mediate neighbourhood ; but the town is thriving, and
is one of the most important in the county. A public
library, in which is a very fair collection, is maintained
by subscription ; and there are also a reading-room
furnished with newspapers and periodical publications,
and two circulating libraries that are liberally supported.
339
The post has a good delivery : the market is on Wed-
nesday, and fairs are held in June, August, and Novem-
ber, for cattle and horses, and are well attended ; there
are also markets in March, May, July, and September,
for sheep, of which a great number are sold. Facility
of communication with the county-town, and with Edin-
burgh and other places, is afforded by excellent roads, of
which the turnpike-road to Edinburgh passes near
Dunse.
A charter was granted in 1489, by James IV., con-
stituting the town a burgh of barony, with power to
choose magistrates, and to exercise all the privileges
usually enjoyed by burghs of barony; and these rights
appear to have been in force for nearly two cen-
turies, during which the bailies and burgesses had muni-
cipal jurisdiction within the limits of the burgh. In
1670, a charter was granted by Charles II. to Sir James
Cockburn, who had purchased the lands of Dunse from
the Homes, of Ayton, confirming all the previous im-
munities, which were afterwards vested in the family of
the Hays, of Drummelzier, whose descendant, William
Hay, Esq., of Dunse Castle, is the present superior of
the barony. Under him the government of the burgh
is administered by a baron-bailie, who exercises the
ordinary jurisdiction in cases of petty offences against
the peace, and in pleas of debt and trespass to a limited
amount. The town-hall, erected in 1816, at an expense
of £26S8, of which £148S were raised by the sale of the
common belonging to the burgh, and the remainder by
subscription, is a handsome edifice in the ancient style
of English architecture, containing in the upper part a
spacious hall or court-room for the transaction of busi-
ness relating to the burgh, and for the holding of public
meetings, under which are some shops. The police is
under the direction of certain commissioners, who re-
present the ancient burgesses, and unite with the baron-
bailie in the general management of the town. There are
within the burgh 14S houses of the annual value of £10
and upwards, and S4 of more than £5 and under the
sum of £10.
The parish is about six miles in length, from south-
east to north-west, and three miles and a half in aver-
age breadth, and of very irregular form ; it is bounded
on the north and east for a considerable space by the
river Whiteadder, and comprises 12,000 acres, of which
nearly 6000 are arable, 1000 woods and plantations,
and the remainder hill-pasture. The surface is exceed-
ingly diversified : in the north it forms part of the
Lammermoor range of hills, including Cockburn Law,
which is about 900 feet above the level of the sea, and
a conspicuous landmark for vessels navigating the coast;
and in the eastern and southern portions, it rises in
gentle undulations to a considerable height, attaining
at Dunse Law an elevation of 630 feet above the sea.
Besides the Whiteadder, there is a small rivulet called
Langton burn, which has its source in the parish of
that name, and after forming a part of its southern
boundary, falls into the Blackadder near Wedderburn.
There are few springs of water fit for domestic use in
the town, and the chief supply was formerly obtained
from a spring on Dunse Law ; but, by the appropriation
to that purpose of a considerable sum of money be-
queathed by Alexander Christie, Esq., of Grueldykes, an
abundant supply of excellent soft water has, with the
permission of Mr. Hay, been conveyed in pipes from a
2X2
DUNS
DUNS
spring near the site of the old town. There is a lake
of artificial construction, formed in the grounds of Dunse
Castle for the embellishment of the demesne. Salmon
and grilse are found in abundance in the Whiteadder,
during the months of September and October ; and in
May, trout of a delicate flavour are plentiful in the
Langton burn. The scenery is richly diversified, dis-
playing in some parts a considerable boldness of feature,
and in others much picturesque beauty ; and from the
higher grounds are extensive and finely-varied pros-
pects.
The soil in the northern district of the parish is
of a dry gravelly quality, in the south a rich deep loam,
and in those parts in the more immediate vicinity of
the town a dark sandy loam. The crops are, grain of
all kinds, potatoes, and turnips ; the system of agricul-
ture is in a very advanced state, and the five-shift course
generally practised ; the lands are well drained and
inclosed, and all the improvements in husbandry and in
agricultural implements have been adopted. A due
degree of attention is paid to live stock ; the sheep are
of the Leicester and Cheviot breeds, and the cattle of
the short-horned or Teeswater, with the exception of
some Kyloes or Highland oxen fattened for home con-
sumption, the others being chiefly reared for the English
markets. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£15,922. The woods and plantations are under good
management, and in a very thriving condition. The
chief substrata are greywacke and greywacke-slate, with
alternations of greenstone and red sandstone both of
the old and new formation ; granite and porphyry are
found in some of the hills. The sandstone is quarried
in the southern part of the parish, and abounds with
vegetable impressions. Dunse Castle is an elegant and
spacious mansion in the ancient English style, mostly
of modern erection, and including the old tower built
by Randolph, Earl of Moray, and incorporated with the
present structure ; it is beautifully situated in a demesne
tastefully laid out and embellished with the lake already
referred to, abounding with tench and perch. Wedder-
burn Castle is a stately mansion in the Grecian style,
finely seated in richly-planted grounds ; and Manderston
is also a handsome house, the grounds of which are
embellished with a sheet of water and flourishing
plantations.
The parish is in the presbytery of Dunse and synod
of Merse and Teviotdale, and patronage of William Hay,
Esq. ; the minister's stipend is £291. 13., with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £25 per annum. The church,
erected in 1790 to replace the ancient building, of
Norman character, which had fallen into decay, is a
plain neat edifice adapted for a congregation of S37
persons. There are places of worship for members of
the Free Church, members of the United Associate
Synod, and those of the Relief Synod. The parochial
school affords education to about 120 children ; the
master has a salary of £34, with £70 fees, and a house
and garden. The poor have the proceeds of a legacy of
£100 by General Dickson, and of one of £1000 by Mr.
Christie; and an annuity of £10 is paid to five poor
females, cousins of the late Dr. Abraham Robertson,
Savilian professor of astronomy in the university of
Oxford. There are also two friendly societies and a
savings' bank, which have both contributed to diminish
the number of applications for parochial relief. The
340
foundations are still remaining of Edinshall Castle,
situated on the slope of Cockburn Law, and one of the
earliest of the fortresses erected here by the Saxons on
their invasion of Britain. It was of circular form, about
eighty-six feet in diameter, and the walls were nearly
sixteen feet in thickness, and perforated in the interior
with numerous cells, extending round the whole, and
apparently vaulted ; but the materials have been almost
entirely removed for various purposes, and little more
than the foundations are remaining. On the east and
south of the circular tower, are the foundations of
several quadrangular buildings ; and the whole was
defended by ramparts of stone and earth, between which
were trenches of considerable depth. From the situa-
tion of the building it appears to have been rather
intended for a residence than a military post. On the
summit of Dunse Law are vestiges of the intrenched
camp occupied by General Leslie and 20,000 of the
Covenanters in the year 1639. Abraham Robertson,
LL.D., was born here in 1751; and Boston, author of
the Fourfold State, a well-known religious work, the
Rev. Thomas Mc Crie, D.D., author of the Life of John
Knox and other works, and the Rev. James Gray, who,
officiating in his ministerial capacity at Cutch, in the
East Indies, and superintending the education of the
prince of that country, died there in 1S30, were also
natives of the place. It is said that the celebrated John
Duns Scotus was likewise born at Dunse.
DUNSHELT, or Daneshalt, a village, in the parish
of Atjchtermuchtv, district of Cupar, county of Fife,
1 mile (S. E.) of Auchtermuchty ; containing ^646 inha-
bitants. This place takes its name from its having
been the retreat of the Danes, who, in one of their
invasions, being defeated in the battle of Falkland Muir,
retired from the field, and took refuge from the pur-
suit of the conquerors in the lower part of the parish.
The village is pleasantly situated on the river Eden, and
on the road to Falkland, and is chiefly inhabited by
persons employed in the weaving of linen and cotton
goods for the manufactures of Glasgow, Aberdeen, and
Dundee. There is a place of worship for Seceders, and
also a school in the village.
DUNSYRE, a parish, in the Upper ward of the
county of Lanark, 1§ mile (W. N. W.) from Roberton,
and 5 miles (S. W.) from Linton ; containing 28S inha-
bitants, of whom 68 are in the village. This place, of
which the name, of Celtic origin, is supposed to signify
the " hill of the seer," appears to have formed part of
the possessions of various families of distinction in the
earlier periods of Scottish history, and is now, with
the exception of a small portion, the property of Sir
Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart. The parish is
more than four miles in length from north to south,
and from three to four miles in breadth, and is bounded
on the east and south by the South Medwin, and on
the north by the North Medwin and Dryburn ; it
comprises 8779 Scottish acres, of which about one-
eighth are arable, and the remainder pasture and waste,
with thirty acres of woodland and plantations. The
surface is generally elevated, and rises into hills of con-
siderable height, of which that of Dunsyre forms in
this parish the termination of the Pentland hills, a range
extending for nearly twenty miles from the immediate
vicinity of Edinburgh. This hill has an elevation of
500 feet above the general surface of the lands, and of
DUNS
D U R I
1230 above the sea ; and a small range of gradually
diminishing hills branches off towards the west from it,
stretching to the parish of Carnwath. Between the
Dunsyre and Walston ranges is the level valley of the
South Medwin, about three miles in length and a mile
broad. The scenery of the parish is enlivened with
plantations and with numerous streams, of which the
only one that may be called a river is the South Med-
wiu, having its source in the north-eastern extremity
of the parish, near the base of Craigingar, and which,
flowing through the valley, is, after a course of two or
three miles further, diverted towards the west, where it
receives a stream called the West water, issuing from
the hills to the north. Craneloch, situated in the
moorland, is about a mile in circumference, but the
scenery is destitute of beauty, presenting nothing but
marshy lands skirted with heath ; it abounds with pike
and perch, and trout is also found in both the Medwins.
The lands abound with springs of excellent water, and
there are some which have a petrifying quality, and
others strongly impregnated with iron.
The soil is generally light and sandy, in some parts
intermixed with clay, and in others almost a barren
heath ; the crops are, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips.
The system of agriculture is advanced, and the rotation
plan of husbandry universally adopted ; the lands have
been drained to a considerable extent, and the channel
of the South Medwin straightened to afford greater
facilities for draining the marshy grounds in its vicinity.
Attention is paid to the management of the dairy, and
to the improvement of stock ; the milch-cows on the
dairy-farms are all of the Ayrshire breed, and the cattle
mostly with a cross of a heavier kind for agricultural
purposes and for the market. About 3000 sheep,
chiefly of the black-faced breed, are annually pastured.
Considerable quantities of skim-milk and Dunlop cheese,
and of butter, are sent to the neighbouring markets ;
and the dairy produce generally is esteemed equal in
quality to that of any part of the county of Ayr. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £2624. The sub-
strata are mainly whinstone of a blueish colour, free-
stone, and an indifferent kind of limestone, with partial
seams of a much purer kind resembling grey marble,
and varying from eight to sixteen feet in depth ; traces
of iron-ore are found in several places, and copper-ore
is supposed to exist. Coal is also thought to prevail
in some parts, but no efficient attempt to procure it
has yet been made. The woods and plantations are
chiefly Scotch fir and larch, but they are rather di-
minishing than increasing in extent. The village is
pleasantly situated in the vale of the North Medwin :
at Medwin Bank are a carding-mill and a dyeing esta-
blishment. The parish is in the presbytery of Biggar
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and patronage of
the Crown ; the minister's stipend is £156. 15., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £28 per annum. The
church, situated on an eminence on the bank of the
river Medwin, is an ancient edifice, with a tower in the
later English style, which was added to it in 1820, when
it underwent a complete repair ; it is adapted for a
congregation of about 250 persons. The parochial
school is well attended ; the master has a salary of £25,
with £5 fees, and a house and garden. There were
formerly numerous castles in the vale of Dunsyre, in
one of which the baron-bailie held his courts ; several
341
relics of Roman antiquity still remain, and the ancient
Roman road through the lands to the camp at Cleghorn
may be traced. The entrance to the glen in which the
hill of Dunsyre is situated, and which is called the
Garvald, forms a communication between the east and
west portions of the parish ; the route of the army of
Agricola through this rugged defile is pointed out by a
dyke of earth, and some cairns are yet remaining, in
which sepulchral urns of burnt clay, rudely carved, have
been discovered.
DUNTOCHER, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Old Kilpatkick, county of Dumbarton ; con-
taining 3S09 inhabitants, of whom 2749 are in the vil-
lage, 8 miles (N. W. by W.) from Glasgow. This very
thriving place, which, less than forty years since, was
a mere hamlet, owes its prosperity to the enterprising
spirit of a resident, Mr. William Dunn, who about that
period purchased the Duntocher mill, and extended the
works then employed for spinning cotton-yarn. In
the neighbourhood are now several vast establishments
for this branch of manufacture, and for weaving,
all of them aided by powerful steam machinery.
Many of the inhabitants are also employed in coal, lime,
and iron works, in brick-making, and various other
pursuits, chiefly on the property of Mr. Dunn here;
and all around presents a scene of remarkable and suc-
cessful industry. The village is situated about two miles
distant, northward, from the river Clyde, and on the
road from Kirkintilloch to Dumbarton ; and in the
immediate vicinity are the villages of Faifley and Hard-
gate. A sub post-office has been established under
Glasgow. At Duntocher is a bridge, supposed by some
to be a Roman structure, and near it is an engraved
stone, stating that it was erected in the reign of Adrian ;
but it is probable that the materials whereof it is
built were obtained at a more recent date from a con-
tiguous Roman fort, of which the lines can with diffi-
culty be traced : the bridge was repaired by the late
Lord Blantyre in 1772. The ecclesiastical affairs are
under the controul of the presbytery of Dumbarton and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the stipend of the minister
is £114, produced by seat-rents and collections, and
the patronage is vested in the male communicants. The
church was erected in 1836, at the cost of about £1660,
contributed by the General Assembly and by opulent
individuals, and is a very chaste and handsome edifice,
containing accommodation for 876 persons. The mem-
bers of the Free Church have a place of worship ; and
there are two Secession meeting-houses and a Roman
Catholic chapel, besides two or three schools. A sepul-
chral stone of Roman origin, and of elegant design and
workmanship, was discovered some time since.
DUPPLIN, county of Perth. — See Aberdalgie.
DURINISH, Isle of Skye.— See Duirinish.
DURISDEER, a parish, in the county of Dum-
fries ; containing, with part of the village of Carron-
bridge, 1445 inhabitants, of whom 107 are in the vil-
lage of Durisdeer, 6 miles (N. by E.) from Thornhill.
This district, which in ancient times was covered with
wood, is supposed to derive its name from duris, sig-
nifying a door, and deer, a forest. Several great fami-
lies have been connected with it, of which the chief are
those of Douglas, Stuart, the Menzies of Enock, and
the Hunters of Balagan ; and the place was formerly
celebrated for its castle, which, with the fortresses of
D URN
D U R N
Dumfries, Dalswinton, and Morton, was, by an agree-
ment between the English and Scots, demolished, as
being troublesome to the former, at the restoration of
King David Bruce, who, after being captured at the
battle of Durham, had been kept eleven years prisoner
in England. The parish is eight miles long and six
broad, and contains nearly 20,000 acres ; it is almost
surrounded by hills, covered with grass, heath, or bent,
and the highest of which are the Lowthers, on its north-
eastern side, which rise 3130 above the level of the
sea : the climate is bleak, but dry and healthy. The
river Nith runs through the lands, in a direction from
north-west to south-east, and besides this important
stream, there are five considerable burns, viz., the
Enterkin, the Carron, the Hapland, the Maarburn, and
the burn at Crarie-Knoll.
The soil in general is loamy, deep, and fertile, in
many places inclining to a reddish colour ; in some
parts it is gravelly and sandy, and occasionally wet and
heavy. About 7896 acres are cultivated ; 9554 are hill-
pasture, and 2000 are wood, including 500 acres that
are of natural growth : the plantations chiefly consist
of hard-woods, in the thinning of which every tree is in
course of time removed except the oak. The usual kinds
of grain and various green crops are raised of good
quality ; the cattle are of the Galloway breed, and the
sheep the black-faced ; the improved system of husban-
dry is followed, and considerable advances have been
made in fencing, the construction of farm-buildings,
and the formation of roads. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £"901. The rocks in the hills are
whinstone or greywacke, and on the low grounds they
are chiefly sandstone of a red colour, and very soft,
though in some places white, and of a much firmer
texture : quarries have been opened for stones adapted
for farm-buildings and dykes. Drumlanrig Castle, in
the parish, a seat of the Duke of Buccleuch and Queens-
berry, whose property extends over a very large district
in this part of the country, is described under its own
head. The village is situated near the eastern boundary
of the parish, on the road from Dumfries to Edinburgh.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of
Penpont andsynod ofDumfries; patron, the Duke of Buc-
cleuch and Queensberry. There is a manse, with a glebe
valued at £25 per annum, and the stipend of the minis-
ter is £221. The church, erected in 1720, contains a
handsome marble monument, representing James, se-
cond duke of Queensberry, weeping over the form of
his deceased duchess : a vault attached to the church
is the burial-place of the family. There are two paro-
chial schools, in which the classics, with the usual
branches of education, are taught ; the salaries of the
masters are respectively £30 and £24, with about £10
fees each, and the accommodation of a house. A third
school is carried on in the parish, situated at Enter-
kinford, and the master receives £10 per annum
from the Duke of Buccleuch. About a mile above
the church are the vestiges of a Roman camp which
appears to have been a summer station connected
with the great one at Tibbers, to guard the pass from
Lanarkshire.
DURNESS, a parish, in the county of Suther-
land, 20 miles (n. W. by w.) from Tongue, and 76
(N. W.) from Golspie, containing 1109 inhabitants.
This parish, of which the name is of doubtful origin,
342
anciently comprised the whole of the lands called " Lord
Reay's country," a district of S00 square miles in extent,
from which, since the year 1724, have been separated
the parishes of Tongue on the east, and Eddrachillis on
the south-west. The present parish of Durness is
bounded on the north by the North Sea, and on the
west by the Atlantic Ocean, and is about twenty-five
miles in length, and twelve in average breadth, com-
prising, with its several Friths, an area of 300 square
miles, of which scarcely one-hundredth part is under cul-
tivation. The surface, which is boldly diversified, and
abounds with magnificent scenery, is naturally divided
into three mountainous districts, separated from each
other by spacious inlets from the North Sea. Of these,
the district of Parf, extending from the Atlantic Ocean
on the west to the Kyle of Durness, occupies an area of
more than seventy square miles ; the district of Dur-
ness, reaching from the Kyle to the western shore of
Loch Eriboll, has an area of about eighty square miles ;
and the district of Westmoin, extending from the east-
ern shore of Loch Eriboll to the morass east of Loch
Hope, contains nearly 100 square miles. The principal
Mountains are, Scribhisbheinn, Faisbheinn, Fairemheall,
Creigriabhach, and Bendearg, all in the Parf district,
varying in height from 1500 to 2500 feet; Ceannabinn,
Meallmeadhonaeh, Cranstackie, and Ben-Spionnadh in
the Durness district, of which Ben-Spionnadh has an
elevation of 2566 feet; and Ben-Hope, 3150 feet in
height, in the district of Westmoin, which contains also
several ranges of lofty and precipitous hills. The val-
leys are, Strath-Dinard, extending from the Kyle of
Durness along the river Grudy for about fourteen miles ;
Strath-Beg, a narrow fertile vale about two miles in
length ; and Strathmore, extending from the north base
of Ben-Hope, for about six miles, along the banks of
the river to which it gives name. The rivers of import-
ance are, the Hope, a continuation of the Strathmore
water, which latter has its source in Glen-gollie, and,
having run for ten miles, flows into Loch Hope ; and
the Dinard, which rises in Loch Dinard, and, after a
course of ten miles, falls into the Kyle of Durness.
Both these rivers, especially when swollen after heavy
rains, are impetuous, and afford good fishing for trout,
and occasionally for salmon. There are numerous
inland lakes, of which the most extensive is Loch Hope,
six miles in length, and about half a mile broad. Loch
Borley is one mile in length, abounding with char, and
in its centre is a beautiful green island; Loch Crospul is
about half a mile in length, and has abundance of
trout ; Loch Dinard and various others are of still less
extent.
The coast is generally bold and elevated, and in most
parts defended by a chain of rocks, rising precipitously
from the sea, to heights varying from 200 to 700 feet, in
some places the shore is low and sandy, and at the bay
of Baluakiel are hills of shifting sand. The headlands
are, Cape Wrath, Farout Head, and Whiten Head. A
lighthouse has been erected on the first-named, at an
elevation of 350 feet above the level of the sea : the build-
ing, which is of granite found near the spot, was com-
menced under the direction of the lords commissioners
in 1827, and is about fifty feet in height, displaying a
revolving light alternately red and white, and visible at
a distance of twelve nautical miles. Since its completion,
wrecks, which were previously frequent, have seldom
D U R N
DURO
occurred. Of the friths that intersect the parish, the
principal are, the Kyle of Durness, about six miles in
length, and one mile in average breadth, and, to the
east of this, Loch Eriboll, ten miles long, and varying
from one mile to four miles in breadth. The chief bays
are, Durness, between the district of Parf and the long pro-
montory of Farout Head ; the small bay of Balnakiel, to
the east ; and the bay of Camisendun, in Loch Eriboll, af-
fording excellent anchorage, and resorted to by vessels
unable to double Cape Wrath or enter the Pentland Frith.
There are several islands off the coast, of which Garvellan,
to the east of the Cape, and about a mile from the shore,
is 100 yards long, nearly of equal breadth, and sixty
feet high, and is frequented by various species of sea-
fowl. Hoan, near the entrance of Loch Eriboll, is one
mile in length, and half a mile in breadth, covered with
verdure ; and Choaric, within the loch, is of equal dimen-
sions and fertility : in both there are places of sepulture,
said to have been originally selected for security from
the depredation of wolves which infested the parish.
Numerous caverns, also, have been formed in the rocks
along the coast by the action of the waves ; the most re-
markable is Smo, two miles to the east of the church, hav-
ing natural arches of great height, in some parts 100 feet
wide, and abounding with features of romantic character.
About a mile from the eastern part of the coast, towards
the north, are the rocks called the Stags, of which the
summits only are above water ; and at some distance
from Cape Wrath are others, visible only at neap tides;
all of which, previously to the erection of the lighthouse,
were frequently fatal to vessels making for the Cape.
Of the small portion of land under cultivation, the
soil is clay or moss, resting on a substratum of lime-
stone and clay, and the crops are, grain of various kinds,
and potatoes ; but the parish is principally pastoral,
and dependent on its fisheries. The cattle are of the
Highland breed, and the sheep, with the exception of a
few of the black-faced, chiefly of the Cheviot breed.
Several tracts of waste have been reclaimed and laid
down in pasture, and comfortable cottages have been
built on most of the small holdings. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £1/45. The herring-fishery
commences in June, and continues till September ; a
small kind of herring of superior flavour is found in
Loch Eriboll, but is used only for home consumption. In
this fishery are engaged ten boats, manned with four
men and a boy each, for which the harbour of Rispond
affords good accommodation. The lobster-fishery com-
mences in May, and continues till August, and employs
six boats, with two men each : when taken the lobsters
are kept in a perforated floating- chest, whence they are
forwarded weekly in smacks to the London market.
Cod and ling are abundant off the coast, but are taken
only for domestic use ; salmon are found in the river
Dinard and in Loch Hope, and the number caught annu-
ally, including grilse, averages about 11,000. The cattle
and sheep of the parish are sent to Falkirk, and the wool
to Liverpool and Hull. The harbours are, Loch Eriboll,
affording safe anchorage and ample shelter for vessels of
any burthen ; Rispond, where a substantial pier has been
constructed ; and Port Our, near Balnakiel, which is
adapted only for boats. A boat-slip, also, has been
constructed at Clashcarnach, to the east of the Cape.
There are considerable remains of ancient wood, consist-
ing principally of birch, growing in sheltered situations ;
343
but no plantations have been formed. At Balnakiel is
an ancient mansion-house, formerly the residence of
Lord Reay, but now occupied by a sheep farmer : there
is no village properly so called, but in various parts are
clusters of small houses containing from ten to thirty
each. Facility of intercourse has been greatly extended
by the Duke of Sutherland, proprietor of the parish ; and
good roads have been constructed, among which are those
from the Kyle of Durness to Cape Wrath, from Loch
Eriboll to Tongue, and a line from the west to the
east of the parish, thirty -four miles in length round the
loch, or crossingthe ferry twenty-four miles. A post-office
has been established, which has communication with
Tongue twice every week. The ecclesiastical affairs
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of Tongue
and synod of Sutherland and Caithness. The minister's
stipend is £158. 6. 8., of which more than two-thirds are
paid from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £20 per annum : the patronage is in the
Crown. The church, situated within a few yards of the
sea-shore, is a plain structure erected in 1619, and con-
taining 300 sittings. In the Eriboll district, about ten
miles from the parish church, is a small church in con-
nexion with the Establishment, built in 1S04, and con-
taining 100 sittings; divine service is occasionally per-
formed by a missionary supported by the Society for
Propagating Christian Knowledge. There is a place of
worship for members of the Free Church. The parochial
school is not well attended ; the master has a salary
of £30, with a house and garden, and the fees average
£11. A school, also, is maintained in connexion with
the Free Church. There are remains of several Picts'
houses, of which the most entire is Dornadilla's Tower,
at Strathmore, consisting of circular concentric walls,
150 feet in circumference, and nearly twenty feet in
height. Robert Donn, the " Burns" of the Highlands,
and author of some Gaelic poems, lies interred in the
churchyard ; and a substantial monument of granite
has been erected to his memory.
DUROR, lately a quoad sacra district, in the parish
of Lismore and Appin, district of Lorn, county of
Argyll, 6 miles (N. N. E.) from Appin ; containing
1692 inhabitants. Duror is situated on an arm of the
sea, called the Linnhe loch, into which a portion of the
land projects in a kind of promontory ; on the north is
Loch Leven, [and on the south stretches Loch Creran.
It includes the district of Glencoe, is about twenty-
eight miles in length, and averages about seven in
breadth ; but of this extensive area scarcely a twentieth
part is under cultivation, the rest being chiefly pasturage
for sheep and black-cattle, and very thinly inhabited by
shepherds. The greater number of the population are at
Glencoe, where, and near the village, are considerable
slate works and quarries, of which the material, of a
blue colour, and much esteemed, is exported in large
quantities to Leith, England, and even America. The
surface around Glencoe is in many places wild, moun-
tainous, and romantic, and the vale is celebrated as the
birthplace of Ossian, and for the cruel massacre of its
unsuspecting inhabitants in 1691. At Ballichulish and
Ardsheal are good mansions, the former rather modern,
r.nd the latter somewhat ancient. The ecclesiastical
affairs are under the controul of the presbytery of Lorn
and synod of Argyll ; the stipend of the minister is £120,
with a manse, and a glebe of the annual value of £1. 15. :
D U R R
DUTH
patron, the Crown. The church, built about 1S26, by
the parliamentary commissioners, is a plain edifice con-
taining accommodation for 323 persons, and was re-
paired in 1S34. The members of the Free Church have
a place of worship ; and there is a Roman Catholic
chapel, with an episcopal chapel and a mission church.
Two parochial schools are supported, in both of which
English and Gaelic, and the first elements of education,
are taught ; the salaries of the masters respectively are
£18 and £8, with about £22 and £10 in fees. A
mineral spring here was used for medicinal purposes for
some time, but it lately fell into disrepute, and is now
quite neglected.
DURRIS, a parish, in the county of Kincardine,
5 miles (E.) from Banehory-Ternan, and 13 (W. S. W.)
from Aberdeen; containing 1109 inhabitants. This
place is supposed to derive its name, often pronounced
Dores, from a Gaelic word signifying a mouth or en-
trance, which is descriptive of this part as affording a
principal entrance into the Highlands. The parish was
once a chapelry belonging, as is generally thought, to
the ancient order of Knights Templars ; but its primi-
tive history is involved in considerable obscurity. The
estate of Durris, which extends into the neighbouring
parish of Banehory-Ternan, was formerly in the pos-
session of Lord Peterborough, who let it upon lease to
the late John Innes, Esq., of Leuchars, near Elgin. On
the reduction of this lease by the supreme court, the
property came into the hands of the fourth Duke of Gor-
don, in 1S24, as next heir of entail ; and by authority
of an act of parliament transferring the entail to other
lands, the estate was purchased from the last duke
by Anthony Mactier, Esq., late of Calcutta, by whom
it is at present held. The parish is five and a half
miles long, about three and three-quarters broad, and
contains about 17,000 acres ; it is bounded on the north
by the river Dee, which separates it from the parish of
Banehory-Ternan, and from Drumoak, in Aberdeen-
shire ; and in the south by the Grampian mountains.
The surface is marked by great irregularities, consisting
of considerable tracts of flat ground, alternated with
abrupt acclivities and the lofty hills of Mindernal,
Mountgower, Craigberg, and Cairnmonearn, the last of
which rises about 1200 feet above the level of the sea.
There are several small rivulets, but the only one worth
notice is the Shiach burn, which, after a rapid course
of twelve miles, falls into the Dee at the Church.
The soil on the haugh lands by the river side is in
some parts a rich and fertile loam, and in others light
and sandy ; in a few places the soil has a mixture of
clay and gravel to a considerable extent, and rests upon
a stiff tenacious subsoil : in almost every direction, and
even in the cultivated fields, occur enormous masses of
stone, generally gneiss. The hills are usually covered
with two or three feet of moss and heath, but the
naked rocks often protrude ; in the hollows at the base
is a greater depth of moss, supplying peat in large
quantities, and of the best description. Upwards of
4000 acres are under tillage, about 1500 in plantations,
and the rest in pasture, moss, and moor, 1000 acres
of which are capable of improvement at a moderate
expense; oats and barley are the grain raised, and of
the green crops turnips and potatoes are the chief. The
sheep are the black-faced, and the cattle the black-
dodded kind, to which the Ayrshire breed has lately
344
been added. The five and six years' rotations of
crops are generally followed ; the farm-buildings are
in good repair, and drainage and manuring with lime
are carefully attended to. The rocks consist prin-
cipally of granite, whinstone, and gneiss, the last of
which is most abundant, and appears to be inexhausti-
ble ; there is limestone in several places, but it has
never been quarried, and its precise quality is not
exactly known. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £3778.
The chief seat is the house of Durris, recently built,
and connected with a more ancient mansion by an ex-
tensive colonnade ; both have lately been subject to
considerable additions and alterations. There is no
village : a turnpike-road runs through the parish for
about four miles, leading from Stonehaven to Banchory ;
a new road from Aberdeen to Banchory, completed in
1840, passes through from east to west, and several
cross roads are well adapted to local convenience. Fairs
are held in May, June, and September, for the sale of
cattle and sheep. There are two or three salmon-
fisheries in the river, but they have for some time past
been decreasing, and are now in a very low condition.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the presby-
tery and synod of Aberdeen ; patron, Mr. Mactier.
There is a manse, with a glebe of 15 acres, valued at as
many pounds per annum, and the stipend of the minis-
ter is £158, of which £81 are received from the ex-
chequer. The church, a very plain edifice, was built in
the year 1822 by the late proprietor, and accommodates
550 persons with sittings, all free : part of the old church
still remains, bearing the date 1537. The members of
the Free Church have no place of worship. There is
a parochial school, at which Latin is taught, with the
usual branches of a plain education ; the master has a
salary of £29, with £20 fees. Another school, com-
monly called Hog's Charity School, was instituted by
Mr. Hog, a native of the parish, who left £5 per annum
to a teacher, who was required to educate gratuitously
ten poor children recommended by the Kirk Session.
The master has also a small plot of land, given by the
late proprietor, and the fees, making in the whole a
salary of about £30 a year ; and the same branches are
taught in this school as in the parochial, Latin ex-
cepted. There are some Druidical remains, and tumuli,
and several chalybeate springs in the parish : of the
last, one, called Red-Beard's Well, from a robber of
that name, who is said to have lived in a neighbouring
cave, is in considerable repute, and resembles, in many
respects, the Harrogate water.
DUTHIL, a parish, chiefly in the county of Elgin,
but partly in that of Inverness, 2 miles (N. E. by E.)
from Carr-Bridge, including the late quoad sacra dis-
trict of Rothiemurchus, and containing 1769 inhabit-
ants. This place, which was anciently called Gleann-
chearnach, or " the heroes' glen," derived its present name
from the Gaelic word Tuathil, signifying "north," on
the removal of its church from a spot in the south, called
Deishal. Rothiemurchus, united to Duthil in 1630, was
disjoined in 1824, and formed into a separate eccle-
siastical district, which is described under its own head.
Exclusively of this portion, which is in Inverness-shire,
the parish is wholly situated in the southern part of
the county of Elgin, on the north-eastern bank of the
Spey, and in a mountainous and thickly-wooded tract,
D U T II
D Y C E
in ancient times an almost impenetrable forest ; it was
the scene of many deadly feuds between rival chieftains
in past ages, and the residence of the powerful Cumyns.
This family possessed the principal part of the estates,
and for many generations maintained hostilities with
the Grants ; but the enmity between the clans was
ended by the marriage of the heiress of one of the
Cumyns to Sir John Grant of Freuchy, the great rival,
thereby fixing the property in the family of Grant,
with whom it has remained to the present time. Du-
thil measures in length about sixteen miles, and thir-
teen in breadth, and comprises a large proportion of
uncultivated ground, and of natural wood, consisting
chiefly of fir, the part under tillage being of small
extent.
The surface presents a hilly, bleak, and dreary aspect,
the scenery taking its principal character from extensive
moors and mountains, the latter covered with hea-
ther, and the whole only occasionally interspersed with
patches of grass or corn land. A lofty range traverses
the whole northern side, and terminates in the Mona-
dhlia, an imposing chain of mountains common to the
districts of Badenoch, Strathdearn, and Stratherrick ;
and parallel with this, but not of equal height, a ridge
passes along the southern portion, bleak and barren
like the other. These two ranges skirt the interme-
diate valley of the Dulnan stream, which takes its rise
in the Badenoch hills, and, flowing through the vale
from west to east, loses itself in the Spey at Be-
lentomb of Inverallan, and which, though generally
small, overflows its banks when swollen after rain or
snow, and carries desolation among the neighbouring
lands. The forest of Duthil or Dulnanside was destroyed
by fire at the beginning of the last century, an event
which was the occasion of the final extirpation of the
wolves, so long before the terror of the neighbour-
hood ; but there is still a large forest of natural Scotch
fir in the northern district, where two saw-mills, of
two saws each, erected for the cutting the timber
felled in the locality, are turned by the waters of the
Dulnan. The lochs are of small extent, but some of
them contain fine trout, especially Loch Bhruach, situ-
ated on the northern hills ; in others are pike ; and
salmon and trout are taken in the rivers.
The soil near the Dulnan and Spey is chiefly alluvial,
upon a deep clayey subsoil, producing in favourable
seasons heavy crops of oats ; and some of the higher
grounds, also, where the soil is thin and gravelly, and
intermixed with stones, yield notwithstanding, by the
recent improvements in cultivation, and when aided by
genial seasons, an ample return in oats, bear, barley,
turnips, and potatoes. The system of husbandry has
been greatly improved within the last twenty years,
and the five-shift course is usually followed ; much
waste ground has been reclaimed, and the former huts
of the farmers, raised with turf, have been succeeded
by well-built stone dwellings, neatly thatched with
straw. Birch, alder, and fir thrive well in this part,
and the first, which grows naturally to a considerable
extent, greatly relieves the generally uninteresting sce-
nery : an extensive tract of barren moor was planted by
the late Sir James Grant along the northern bank of
the Spey, upwards of fifty years since, and the trees
are now in a flourishing condition. The rafeible annual
value of Duthil is £2674. The Highland road between
Vol. I.— 345
Perth and Inverness passes through the parish ; and
from the hamlet of Carr-bridge, where a post-office was
established in 1S36, a road branches off to Grantown :
besides the bridge at the hamlet, there is one at Slug-
gan, built shortly after the year 1745, on the line of
road formed under the direction of General Wade, but
it has been almost impassable since the flood of 1S29.
The cattle of the district are sold at neighbouring mar-
kets to the south country dealers : the timber cut in the
forest is sent mostly to Inverness. The parish is in
the presbytery of Abernethy and synod of Moray, and
in the patronage of the Earl of Seafield ; the minister's
stipend is £200, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£5 per annum. The church is a commodious edifice,
built in 1S26, and accommodating between S00 and 900
persons with sittings, all free : a handsome mausoleum
of grey granite has lately been erected over the burial-
ground of the Grant family. The parochial school
affords instruction in the usual branches ; the master
has a salary of £25. 13., with about £12 or £15 fees,
and £32 from the Dick bequest : there is also a school
endowed by the Society for Propagating Christian
Knowledge, and another is supported by the education
scheme of the General Assembly.
DYCE, a parish, in the district and county of Aber-
deen, 7 miles (N. N. W.) from Aberdeen ; containing
472 inhabitants. This parish was in remote times called
the chapelry of St. Fergus, to whom the present church
is dedicated ; and it is supposed that, with several
adjacent parishes, it was formerly connected with the
cathedral of Old Machar. It is in extreme length about
six miles, and between three and four in breadth, and
contains 4667 acres ; it is bounded by the parish of
Fintray on the north, by that of Newhills on the south
and south-west, by Kiuellar on the north-west, and by-
New and Old Machar on the east. The surface, which,
is not marked by any very striking peculiarities, is in
general tolerably level, with the exception of the land in
the north-west, whence the broad hill of Tyrebagger,
commencing a declivity, slopes towards the south-east
for a distance of about three miles, and then loses itself
in the plain below. The river Don runs along the north-
ern and eastern boundaries of the parish, and after a
further course of a few miles in a south-eastern direc-
tion, falls, two miles north of Aberdeen, into the Ger-
man Ocean : the trout-fishing during the months of
March and April is very superior.
The finest soil lies in the low grounds along the
banks of the river, and consists of alluvial deposit, pro-
ducing rich and heavy crops ; the soil in the other parts
is indifferent, and on the summit of the hill of Tyre-
bagger poor and thin. The number of acres under cul-
tivation is 2910, under wood 1176, and in waste 581,
out of which 237 are considered capable of profitable
cultivation. The system cf agriculture here followed
is a rotation of five, six, or seven years, of which the
five years' consists of grain ; turnips ; bear, and some-
times oats, with clover and rye-grass ; hay or pasture ;
and pasture. Large flocks of sheep were formerly to be
seen, but they have been greatly diminished since the
inclosures and the plantations in the parish were made,
and there are now but a small number kept for home
consumption : the cattle are mostly the native Aberdeen,
which are frequently crossed with the short-horned breed,
and in some grounds these latter are preferred unmixed.
2 Y
D Y CE
DYKE
The farm-houses are in general good and substantial
dwellings, and some of them very superior ; the stead-
ings are complete sets of buildings of a quadran-
gular form, slated, and usually supplied with thresh-
ing-mills. On the smaller farms, however, the houses
and inclosures are of an inferior description, though in
a state of progressive improvement. Great changes
have been effected within the last twenty years in im-
proving inferior soils, six or seven hundred acres of
which have been successfully treated ; and a very large
embankment has been raised, as a protection against
the destructive inundations of the river Don, the floods
of which have recently been much augmented through
the multiplication of drains. The rateable annual value
of the parish now amounts to £35/0.
The prevailing rock in the district is granite ; a large
supply is obtained from quarries in the hill of Tyre-
bagger, and stone has at various times been cut for the
Bell-rock lighthouse, Sheerness quay, Deptford quay,
the West India docks, the custom-house of London,
St. Katherine's docks, and new London bridge. Very
extensive plantations of Scotch fir and larch have been
made on the hill, and are the resort of roe-deer, black-
cock, and a good supply of woodcock ; but the grouse
which were so numerous before the formation of plan-
tations have almost entirely disappeared. On the lower
grounds are found partridges, snipe, wild-duck, hares,
and rabbits. The inhabitants of the parish are employed
chiefly in agriculture and in working in the quarries.
The great turnpike-road from Aberdeen to Inverness,
via Huntly, runs along the western boundary for about
two miles ; the turnpike-road from Aberdeen to Banff
crosses the eastern quarter ; and the centre is intersected
by the canal from Aberdeen to Inverury, by which coal,
lime, and manure are brought up, and grain and other
farm produce sent back, passage-boats plying on it
twice a day during summer. Among the mansions are,
Caskieben, the seat of Dr. Alexander Henderson, author
of a work on wines, and Pitmedden, both modern
buildings. The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by
the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen. The stipend
of the minister is £160, of which nearly a third is drawn
from the exchequer ; there is a manse, with good offices,
built some few years since, and the glebe is valued at
£7. 10. per annum; patron, John Gordon Gumming
Skene, Esq. The church is an old edifice, of uncertain
date, and small and uncomfortable ; it stands at the
northern extremity of the parish, upon a rocky point
formed by a winding of the river Don, and commands a
fine view, extending to twenty miles, of the scenery
with which the course of that stream is ornamented.
There is a parochial school, in which Latin is taught,
with the usual branches of education ; the master has a
salary of £34, fees amounting to about £8, and an
allowance from the fund of the late Mr. Dick. The
chief relic of antiquity is a Druidical temple situated
on the southern slope of Tyrebagger hill, and command-
ing an extensive view of the sea-coast and the lower
grounds ; it is formed of ten large pieces of granite, dis-
posed about eight feet distant from each other, in the form
of a circle, and rising to the height of from five to ten feet
above the ground. Urns have sometimes been disco-
vered. In the churchyard is one of the oblong monu-
mental stones commonly supposed to be of Runic origin,
but justly traced to more recent times ; among a great
346 B S
variety of other sculpture, it is marked by a cross,
forming a prominent object in the graving. Arthur
Johnston, of Caskieben, a celebrated Latin scholar, was
connected with this place.
DYKE and MOY, a parish, in the county of Elgin,
3 miles (W. by S.) from Forres ; containing, with the
villages of Kintessack and Whitemyre, 1366 inhabitants,
of whom 166 are resident within the village of Dyke.
These two ancient parishes, of which the Gaelic names
are descriptive of the former as a channel for waters,
and of the latter as a level and fertile plain, were united
in 1618. The whole is bounded on the north by the
Moray Frith, and on the west by the county of Nairn,
and comprises about 17,300 acres, of which 3220 are
arable, 2S00 woodland and plantations, 1300 meadow
and pasture, and the remainder waste. The surface is
generally undulated within the district of Dyke, which
contains the forest of Darnaway towards the south, and
the woods of Dalvey and Brodie towards the north.
In the district of Moy is a fine extent of level plain,
stretching northward to Kincorth, on the western shore of
Findhorn loch, towards the lands of Culbin, which at
a very early period were overwhelmed with drifts of
sand, and are now covered with sand-hills, some having
an elevation of 100 feet. The river Findhorn, which,
in its course to the sea at Findhorn, forms the eastern
boundary of the parish, in 1829 rose to an unusual
height, and carried into the bay an immense quantity
of sand, which for three square miles diminished its
depth by nearly two feet. Several rivulets intersect
the parish, and flow into the Findhorn, of which the
most considerable is the Muckleburn ; they all abound
with trout, and afford good sport to the angler, and the
salmon-fishery in the Findhorn is of considerable value.
The coast throughout the entire extent of the parish
for about six miles is shallow and sandy : there are
numerous beds of cockles, which not only afford an
abundant supply for sustenance to the poor, but are
sold by the women through the adjoining district,
making a return of more than £100 per annum, on the
average.
The soil on the level lands is a rich brown and black
loam, generally light, and easily cultivated ; and in
other parts of the parish are alternations of sand and
gravel. The crops are, wheat, barley, oats, turnips,
and potatoes, with the usual grasses ; the system of
agriculture is in an improved state, and furrow-draining
has been tried with success upon some of the farms :
lime, marl, and bone-dust have been extensively adopted
for manure. The lands, however, are only partly in-
closed, and the farm-buildings, though more commo-
dious than formerly, are susceptible of still greater
improvement; there are sixteen threshing-mills, the
greater number worked by horses. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £5942. The woods, which are
extensive, are oak, ash, beech, elm, birch, horse-ches-
nut, sycamore, and alder ; and in the forest of Darna-
way much valuable timber is raised and sold for ship-
building and other purposes. The plantations, which
are well managed and in a thriving state, consist of
larch, and spruce and Scotch firs ; and there are several
flourishing orchards in the parish. The substrata are
principally old red sandstone, with gneiss and granite ;
there is coarse limestone, containing schist and pyrites
of iron ; and occasionally some lead-ore is found, but
DYKE
D Y S A
not in sufficient quantity to encourage the working
of it.
Darnaway Castle, one of the seats of the Earl of
Moray, situated on a gentle eminence, and surrounded
by an extensive and richly-wooded park, has been re-
cently enlarged and improved. In one of the wings, in
the more ancient part of the building, is a noble hall
eighty-nine feet in length, and thirty-five feet wide, with
a lofty roof of timber frame-work, built by Thomas
Randolph, Earl of Moray, regent of Scotland during the
minority of David Bruce, and in which are still pre-
served his hospitable table and chair of old carved oak :
in this splendid hall the late earl gave a sumptuous
entertainment to his tenantry in 1S39. Brodie House is
an ancient castellated mansion, to which extensive addi-
tions in a corresponding style of architecture have
been made by the present proprietor, and is situated in
grounds that have been tastefully embellished ; the
ceiling of the drawing-room is laid out in compartments
ornamented with grotesque figures of stucco in high
relief, and in the various rooms is a valuable collection
of paintings. Dalvey House, situated on a knoll over-
looking the Muckleburn, and nearly occupying the site
of the castle of Dalvey, is a handsome modern mansion ;
the gardens, which are extensive, and kept in fine order,
are open to public inspection. The houses of Moy and
Kincorth are also good residences.
The village of Dyke is beautifully situated in a se-
cluded spot embosomed in trees : facility of communi-
cation is afforded by the great post-road from Aberdeen
to Inverness, which passes through the parish, and by
other good roads that intersect it in all directions, by
bridges over the several burns, and by an elegant sus-
pension-bridge over the Findhorn, which connects the
parish with Forres, the nearest post-town. The eccle-
siastical affairs are under the superintendence of the
presbytery of Forres and synod of Moray. The minis-
ter's stipend is £'244. 11., with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £16. 13.; patrons, the Crown and James M.
Grant, Esq., of Moy. The church, conveniently situated
in the village, is a neat structure erected in 1781, in
good repair, and containing 900 sittings, all of which
are rent free. The members of the Free Church have a
place of worship. The parochial school is well attended ;
the master has a salary of £34, with a house and gar-
den, and the fees average £30 per annum, besides which
he receives £44 from the Dick bequest : there is also
a female school in the village, under a teacher who
has a house and garden, with a small endowment in
money. In the park of Brodie House is a stone on
one side of which is sculptured a cross, and on the
other several fabulous animals ; it was discovered in
digging the foundation for the church, and was erected
in the village in commemoration of Rodney's victory,
and thence called Rodney's Cross, but was removed to
its present situation within the last few years. In
sinking the same foundations, a labourer, who had con-
trived to keep the discovery a secret from his compa-
nions, found in an earthen pot a large number of silver
coins of the reign of William the Lion of Scotland, of
which many had been struck at Stirling, and some of
Henry II. of England, all which he sold by weight for
£46. About the year 1832 there was dug out of a
steep bank on the Findhorn a large stone coffin con-
taining a human skeleton.
347
DYSART, a burgh, sea-
port town, and parish, in the
districtof Kirkcaldy, county
ftr?% of Fife ; including the vil-
*mf lages of Boreland and Galla-
gf] town, the late quoad sacra
parish of Pathhead, and part
of that of Thornton ; and
containing 7591 inhabitants,
of whom 1SS5 are in the town,
2 miles (E.) from Kirkcaldy,
and 14 (N. by E.) from Edin-
burgh. This place appears
to have retained its original name, which in the Gaelic
language signifies the " Temple of the Most High," from
its rise to the present time. The earliest event upon
record connected with it is the invasion of Fife by the
Danes, towards the close of the ninth century, when,
bringing their fleet to anchor in the Frith of Forth, they
landed on the coast of this parish, and marching into
the interior, were opposed by the natives, who, assem-
bling to obstruct their progress, gave them battle in a field
about a mile to the north of the town. To commemo-
rate this occurrence, a large stone was erected in the
centre of the field of battle, which still points out the
spot. Few particulars of historical importance have
been preserved to throw any light upon the origin and
progress of the town ; the records of the burgh, and
other ancient documents in the possession of the Sinclair
family, were burnt in 1715, when the mansion of Lord
Sinclair was destroyed by an accidental fire. The castle
of Ravenscraig, a little to the west of the town, was,
together with the adjoining lands, granted by James III.
to William Sinclair, Earl of Orkney, on his resignation of
that title, and has ever since been in the possession of
the family : here Lord Sinclair used to hold his baronial
court, and the castle continued to be a residence till the
Restoration, after which it was suffered to fall into decay,
and it is now a ruin of romantic appearance, seated on a
steep rock overlooking the sea.
The town, which is of great antiquity, and was once
the principal trading port on this part of the coast, com-
prises three narrow streets diverging from an open area
in the centre, in which is situated the town-hall ; and
still retains much of its original character. The high
street consists of substantial houses of antique appear-
ance, some till lately having in front piazzas, under
which the merchants and dealers formerly sold their
wares. Extensive salt-works appear to have been esta-
blished here at a very early period, from which, about
the middle of the fifteenth century, not only the chief
towns in Scotland were supplied, but also great quantities
were exported to Holland. From that period the trade
of the town and port continued to flourish for two or
three centuries ; malting and brewing were carried on to
a considerable extent ; large quantities of merchandise of
every description were regularly exposed for sale, and
the high street and the square were thronged with mer-
chants. Its port was crowded with shipping, and its
foreign and domestic commerce advanced beyond that of
any other town in this part. This state of prosperity lasted
till the Union, after which it began to decline ; its port
was almost deserted, its trade with foreign coasts nearly
annihilated, and its manufactures greatly diminished.
From this depression, however, it in some degree reco-
2 Y2
D Y S A
D Y S A
vered, though it is far from having regained its former
importance ; a manufactory of nails was established in
the town, in which, till within the last forty or fifty
years, about 100 persons were constantly employed, and
the quantity of nails annually made was valued at £2000.
Many of them, used in ship-building, were sent to Edin-
burgh, Glasgow, and the principal towns in the north,
but for some years this branch of trade has been declin-
ing, and it is at present only carried on to a very limited
extent. The manufacture of linen-cloth has also greatly
diminished ; but one branch of it still continues to
flourish. The chief trade now pursued is the manufac-
ture of checks and ticking, which was established about
a century since, and has been uniformly increasing ; 2000
looms are constantly in use ; the number of yards
annually produced is more than 31,000,000, and the
value above £150,000. This trade affords employment
to about 5000 persons; the articles are sent to London,
Manchester, Liverpool, Nottingham, Leeds, and other
places, and likewise to the Cape of Good Hope and
the East and West Indies. A mill for spinning flax was
erected some years since, in which about 100 persons are
engaged ; and there is a pottery of stone-ware, affording
employment to a nearly equal number ; also a small rope-
walk.
The business of the port consists chiefly in the ex-
portation of coal and ironstone from the pits in the pa-
rish, and in the importation of flax and other goods from
Holland and the Baltic. There are eight vessels of the
aggregate burthen of 63S tons belonging to the port ;
and the number of vessels that entered during a recent
year, to deliver or receive cargoes, was eighty-seven, of
the aggregate burthen of 5296 tons. The harbour, from
the ill construction of the eastern pier, was once exceed-
ingly dangerous, and the swell so great as to subject the
vessels sheltering in it to damage. It was proposed
to take down that pier, and to rebuild it in a new direc-
tion, which, according to the opinion of several eminent
engineers, would not only remedy the evil, but render
this one of the most commodious harbours on the coast ;
but, as the expense of the improvement would have been
beyond the means possessed by the town, it was resolved
merely to convert a quarry adjoining it into a wet-dock,
which has answered the purpose admirably. The depth of
water in the new dock, which adjoins the western pier,
is eighteen feet at spring-tides ; and it is capacious enough
to hold seventeen or eighteen vessels of moderate ton-
nage, which may ride in perfect safety, in addition to
what the harbour would formerly accommodate. A
patent-slip has likewise been constructed, at a consider-
able expense, for repairing ships ; and ship-building is
also carried on upon a large scale. Two steam-boats
ply regularly between this place and Newhaven ; a sail-
ing-packet leaves the port without fail every day for
Leith, and another for Dundee occasionally. Fairs
were formerly held six times in the year, for the sale of
wool, white cloth, linseed, and black-cattle ; they were
attended by numerous merchants from Glasgow, Edin-
burgh, and Stirling, but have of late been altogether
discontinued. Two subscription libraries have been
established ; and there are also a mechanics' library, one
exclusively for religious publications, and two public
reading-rooms, which are well attended.
The town was made a burgh of barony by Lord
Sinclair, and there is still extant the copy of a summons
348
issued from Ravenscraig Castle to the bailies, and com-
manding their appearance at his baronial court. It was
afterwards erected into a royal burgh by charter of
Charles II., and the government was vested in two
bailies, a treasurer, and a council of twenty-one bur-
gesses ; but in consequence of an error in the election
of the council in 1831, the burgh was disfranchised by
judgment of the court of session, who appointed three
managers to take charge of its affairs, by whom, from
the impossibility of electing a council subsequently, the
concerns of the town are still administered. The juris-
diction of the magistrates extends to the bounds of the
royalty. The treasurer and the town-clerk, who acts
also as assessor, and the other officers, are at present
appointed by the managers; the bailies act as justices of
the peace for the royalty, and hold a court for the deter-
mination of civil actions, but in 1831 only four civil
cases were brought before it for decision, and there is
no record of any criminal cases whatever. Burgesses
and freemen residing within the burgh are exempt from
one-third of the dues paid by strangers on the landing
of goods at the quay. Dysart, by the act of the 2nd and
3rd of William IV., unites with Kirkcaldy, Kinghorn,
and Burntisland, in returning a member to the imperial
parliament; the right of election is vested in the resi-
dent householders of the annual value of £10 and up-
wards, the number of whom within the limits of the
municipal burgh is thirty-two, thechief of them being bur-
gesses. The number of £10 householders without the
municipal, but within the parliamentary limits, is 124 ;
and the whole number of voters at a late election was 106.
The town-hall is a plain substantial building of stone,
with a tower surmounted by a spire ; it was originally
erected in 1617, and contains a spacious hall for the
transaction of municipal affairs, a guard-house, weigh-
house, and prison. During the civil war in the reign of
Charles I., the former building was converted into a
barrack by Cromwell's soldiers, one of whom entering
the magazine with a lighted match, the powder exploded,
and reduced the whole building to ruins, in which state
it remained for some years, till it was rebuilt.
The parish, situated on the Frith of Forth, is about
four miles in length, and three in breadth, and comprises
3054 Scottish acres, of which about 400 are natural
woods and plantations, and the remainder arable land in
good cultivation. The coast, which extends for about
two miles, is abrupt and rugged, and marked in several
parts with rocks of considerable elevation. The surface
rises gradually towards the north, and in the more level
tracts is enlivened by two small rivers, the Oar and the
Lochty, of which the former has its source in the parish
of Dunfermline, and, receiving in its course two streams
issuing respectively from the lochs of Fittie and Gellie,
flows in an eastern direction into the river Leven in the
parish of Markinch. The Lochty rises in the parish of
Kinglassie, and falls into the Oar at a short distance
from the influx of that stream into the Leven. The soil
is in general fertile, and the substratum abounds in
mineral wealth ; the most improved system of husbandry
is adopted, and much waste land has been reclaimed,
and brought into cultivation. The crops are, wheat,
barley, oats, potatoes, and turnips, of which large quan-
tities are raised for the supply of the neighbouring mar-
kets. Great attention is paid to live stock : there are,
however, very few sheep ; the cattle are generally of the
D Y S A
E A GL
Fifeshire, Ayrshire, and Teeswater breeds ; the rearing
of horses is an object of particular solicitude, and many
fine specimens are produced. The plantations, of which
more than 300 acres are on the property of the Earl of
Rosslyn, are chiefly fir, oak, and elm, which are well
managed and very thriving ; the lands are inclosed, and
the fences kept in good repair ; the farm-buildings and
offices, also, are very superior. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £10,775. The substrata are,
limestone, which is extensively quarried for agricultural
and other purposes ; sandstone, which, though inferior in
appearance, is notwithstanding of good quality ; clay-
stone, worked on a large scale for pavements, hearths,
and other uses ; coal, of which there are not less than
fourteen beds on the estate of the Earl of Rosslyn ; and
ironstone, which is found below the coal, of excellent
quality, producing about twelve hundred weight of iron
from every ton. Most of the beds of coal are thin ; but
three of them, lying above each other, are now being
worked, of which the uppermost is five, the next eight,
and the lowest five feet in thickness. The pits are sunk
to a depth of seventy fathoms, and produce an abun-
dant supply : the coal is slow in burning, but throws out
an intense heat ; it was among the first that was wrought
in Scotland, and there are the remains of some exhausted
mines that are supposed to have been in operation more
than three centuries since. Five beds of ironstone are
worked a little to the westward of the coal-mines, where
it lies nearer to the surface ; it is wrought on an exten-
sive scale, and the produce is shipped to Carron, for
the supply of the foundries of that place. The landed
proprietors of the parish, by the encouragement they
have given to improvements of every kind, have contri-
buted greatly to its prosperity : the Earl of Rosslyn
occasionally resides here, in a mansion situated a little
westward of the town, commanding an extensive view
of the Frith and the richly-varied scenery of the adjacent
country. The house is spacious, and of handsome
appearance, and the grounds are extensive, and finely
planted with ornamental timber and forest trees, of
which many are of stately growth.
The parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of
Kirkcaldy and synod of Fife ; patron, the Earl of Ross-
lyn. The church being collegiate, there are two incum-
bents 5 the stipend of the first is £'265. 10., with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £21. S. per annum ; the stipend of
the second minister is £20~. 11., without either manse or
glebe. The church, erected in 1802, is a neat and sub-
stantial edifice situated at one extremity of the town,
and is adapted for a congregation of 1600 persons. A
church was erected by subscription in the village of
Pathhead within the last twenty years, at an expense of
£3000 ; and the parish has for ecclesiastical purposes
been divided by the presbytery, and one division allotted
to each of the parochial ministers. There are places of
worship for members of the Free Church, the Relief,
and Antiburghers. A subscription school was lately
erected, forming a great ornament to the town, from
the elegance of its design. The Burgh school, which
is also the parochial school, affords a liberal course
of instruction, but from its situation is accessible
only to residents in the town ; the master, who is
elected by the town-council, has a salary of £43 per
annum, arising partly from the funds of the burgh,
and partly from the interest of money bequeathed for
349
that purpose, with £50 school fees, and an allowance
in lieu of a house and garden. There is an endowed
school at Pathhead, the master of which has a good
salary for teaching 150 children reading, writing, and
arithmetic ; also one in Boreland, of which the master has
£S per annum, with a school-room and dwelling-house
rent free, and a supply of coal. The parish contains
several religious societies, the principal of which are, a
Bible and missionary association which gives part of its
income to the Gaelic and Hibernian Societies ; a Sabbath-
evening school society ; and a society for the education
of children, which pays one-half of the school fees for
the children of such parents as are willing to pay the
other half. There is a society for the support of indi-
gent and aged females, which appropriates about £40
annually to that purpose. Three friendly societies, also,
belonging respectively to maltmen, bakers, and sailors,
have been established in the town for more than two
centuries ; and their funds, which are ample, are exclu-
sively appropriated to the relief of poor members. In
the south part of the town are the remains of an ancient
chapel dedicated to St. Dennis ; parts of the old walls
are standing, but the building itself has been converted
into a forge. Near the site of this chapel are the re-
mains of the old church, which appears to have been
a venerable structure, the porch and the tower bearing
evidence of great antiquity ; the former has a groined
roof of stone, and above the door are two sculptured
stones, one of which seems to have been a pedestal for a
statue, probably of the tutelar saint. Nearly in the
centre of the harbour is a high rock called the Fort, and
supposed to have been fortified by the troops of Crom-
well during the parliamentary war ; but no traces of
any military works are visible. On the lands of Car-
berry farm the Romans are said to have had a camp,
though no vestiges are at present discernible ; and
about a mile to the west of the town are the Red rocks,
concerning which many traditionary stories are current.
Robert Beatson, who obtained an ensigncy in 1756, and
was present at the taking of Martinique and Guadeloupe,
was born in this parish ; he was distinguished as the
author of a Political Index to the History of Great Britain
and Ireland, a chronological register of both houses of
parliament, and other works. Dysart gives the title of
Earl to the family of Tollemache ; the first earl was son
of the Rev. William Murray, incumbent of the parish,
and acted a conspicuous part in the reign of Charles I.
E
EAGLESFIELD, a village, in the parish of Mid-
dlebie, county of Dumfries ; containing 456 inhabit-
ants. This is the principal of three flourishing villages
in the parish, erected within the last twenty years, and
the inhabitants of which are to a considerable extent
engaged in weaving.
EAGLESHAM, a parish, in the county of Ren-
frew, 9 miles (S.) from Glasgow ; containing 2428 in-
habitants, of whom 1S01 are in the village. This place,
which is of considerable antiquity, is supposed to have
derived its name, of Celtic origin, from the erection of
its ancient church. It formed part of the district of
Mearns, and, together with other lands, was granted by
E AGL
E A G L
David I., King of Scotland, to Walter, son of Alan, the
first of the Stuarts, from whom Robert de Montgomerie,
of Oswestry, in England, procured the manor of Eagles-
ham about the middle of the twelfth century. After
the accession of the Stuarts to -the Scottish throne, it
was held by Robert's descendant, John de Montgomerie,
who also obtained the baronies of Eglinton and Ardros-
san, by marriage with Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Hugh
Eglinton by Egidia, sister of Robert II. ; and this John
de Montgomerie, with the ransom of Harry Percy, sur-
named Hotspur, whom he had taken prisoner at the
battle of Otterburn in 13SS, erected here the castle of
Polnoon, of which there are still some vestiges remaining.
The parish, which was almost exclusively the property
of the Montgomerie family, is situated in the south-
east angle of the county, and is about six miles from
north to south, and five and a half from east to west.
It is bounded on the north by the river Earn, which
separates it from the parish of Mearns ; on the south
by the parish of Loudon ; on the east by the river
White Cart, which divides it from the parishes of East
Kilbride and Garmunnoek ; and on the west by the
parish of Fenwick. The surface is generally elevated,
and is intersected from east to west by a ridge of hills,
of which the highest vary from 1000 to 1200 feet above
the level of the sea, and which, with the exception of a
hill in Lochwinnoch, are the highest in the county.
The sources of the river Cart and its numerous tribu-
taries are within the parish : this river, which flows in
a northern course to Cathcart and Langside, then takes
a western direction toward Paisley, whence it deviates
towards the north, and receives the waters of the Black
Cart at Inchinnan Bridge previously to its influx into
the Clyde. The surface is also diversified with lakes,
and with reservoirs for the supply of different mills,
which latter cover nearly 240 acres of ground, and are
frequented by various species of aquatic fowl.
The whole number of acres is estimated at 15,500, of
which about 6100 are arable, nearly 4000 meadow and
pasture, about 60 woodland and plantations, and the
remainder moorland pasture and moss. The soil along
the banks of the Cart, and towards the west, though
light, is fertile ; but many of the inhabitants rely more on
the pasturage of sheep and the rearing of cattle than on.
the cultivation of the lands. The principal crops are,
oats, barley, and potatoes ; the system of agriculture
has been improved ; much progress has been made in
draining, and considerable quantities of waste have
been reclaimed. Many of the farm-houses and offices
have been rebuilt on a more commodious plan, and the
more recent improvements in husbandry have been
adopted ; the dairy-farms are in general well managed,
and the produce finds a ready sale in the market of
Glasgow. The cows are chiefly of the Ayrshire ibreed,
of which about 1000 are pastured on the farms, and
4000 sheep are maintained on the moorland pastures ;
few horses are reared, the greater number being pur-
chased in the spring for agricultural purposes, and sold
again in the autumn. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £11,800. The moors abound with grouse and
other species of game, and afford a fine field of sport to
the members of the Clydesdale Coursing Club, the hares
being numerous and swift, and requiring greater energy
and perseverance in the chase than those in the more
lowland countries. Trout and various other kinds of
350
fish abound in the lakes, and a peculiar species found
in the Clyde and the Avon was originally introduced
by Lady Anne Hamilton from this vicinity. The plan-
tations are chiefly the common Scotch fir, which thrives
admirably, and larch, for which the soil is better adapted
than for many other sorts ; hard-woods of different
kinds are found in the lower grounds and more shel-
tered situations. The rocks in the higher lands are
generally of the trap species, intermixed in some places
with porphyritic claystone, and abounding in others
with jasper, chalcedony, blue quartz, calcareous spar,
and felspar containing beautiful crystals.
Alexander, the eighth earl of Eglinton, obtained for
the inhabitants a charter for a weekly market and an
annual fair, in 1672 ; the market has been discontinued,
as well as the fair, which was mostly for cattle, and was
on the 24th of April, O. S. ; but there is still a fair on
the last Thursday in August, when horse-races take
place. The village, which was laid out on a new plan
by the tenth earl, is about one-third of a mile in length,
and consists of two ranges of houses, between which is
a spacious green, varying from 100 to 250 yards in
breadth, disposed in lawns, interspersed with trees, and
divided in the centre by a streamlet of clear water. In
the rear of each of the houses is a rood of garden ; the
inhabitants have also seventy acres of ground rent free,
which are laid out in meadows and plantations. The
manufacture of silk was formerly considerable, employ-
ing sixty-three looms in the village ; but that branch of
trade has been superseded by the weaving of cotton
goods, for which materials are provided by the manu-
facturers of Glasgow and Paisley, and afford employ-
ment to nearly 400 persons, resident in the village. At
the higher extremity of the rivulet that flows through
the green is an extentive cotton-mill, the property of
Messrs. Mc Lean and Brodie, of Glasgow, in which are
15,312 spindles, set in motion by a water-wheel of cast-
iron forty-five feet in diameter, and equivalent to the
power of fifty horses ; it gives occupation to 200 per-
sons, of whom more than one-half are females. There
is also a mill at Mill-hall, employing 620 spindles and
nearly seventy persons, of whom about one-third are
females ; this establishment is chiefly engaged in spin-
ning shuttle-cord for power-looms, and wicks for can-
dles, and the machinery is impelled by a water-wheel of
24-horse power. The parish likewise contains a corn-
mill in which about 3000 bolls of grain are ground
annually. There is a post-office, with a good delivery ;
and facility of intercourse with Glasgow, Paislej^, Hamil-
ton, and other towns is maintained by excellent roads, of
which seven miles of turnpike pass through the parish.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence
of the presbytery of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr; the minister's stipend is £27S. 14., with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £25 per annum ; patron, Allan
Gilmour, Esq. The church, erected in 1788, is a neat
structure of octagonal form, containing 550 sittings,
most of which are free. There are places of worship
for members of the United Secession and a Reformed
Presbyterian Congregation. The parochial school is
attended by about 120 scholars ; the master has a
salary of £30, with a house and garden, and the fees
average £50 per annum. There is another school, in
which sixty children are taught. Robert Pollok, author
of the Course of Time, was a native of the parish.
EARL
EARL
EAGLESHAY, an isle, in the parish of Rousay
and Eagleshay, county of Orkney; containing 190
inhabitants. It lies on the east side of the island of
Rousay, from which it is separated by Hovva Sound, and
is about two miles and a half long and one broad, and
entirely composed of sandstone and sandstone flag; in
some parts the strata are very much elevated. The soil
is good, but is indifferently cultivated. This island,
from its beauty, has been chosen as a place of residence
by several distinguished persons : the families of Dou-
glas and Monteith, its former proprietors, resided here,
and even the bishops preferred it for their habitation.
St. Magnus was murdered on the isle, and the church,
dedicated to him as the tutelar saint of the Orkneys,
is said to have been erected on the very spot where the
deed was perpetrated by his ambitious relative. In the
month of October, the spongia palmata and oculata are
cast on the shore in great abundance ; and a consider-
able quantity of kelp is produced annually.
EAGLESHAY, an isle, in the parish of Northma-
vine, county of Shetland. It is one of the smallest
of the Shetland group, and is situated in St. Magnus'
bay, a short distance westward of Islesburgh, on the
Mainland ; there is some good pasturage ; and rabbits
are very numerous.
EALAN NA COOMB, an isle, in the parish of
Tongue, county of Sutherland. This isle, also called
Ealan na Naoimph. or Island of Saints, lies off the
northern coast of Sutherland, and a little eastward of
the mouth of the Kyle of Tongue ; it is of very small
extent, and of nearly circular form. Here were formerly
a chapel and burial-place, of which the remains are still
visible.
EALAN NA ROAN, an isle, in the parish of
Tongue, county of Sutherland. This place, of which
the name signifies the " Island of Seals," is situated at the
entrance to the Kyle of Tongue ; it is about two miles
in circumference, and is formed of a mixture of sand
and a reddish kind of pebble, which appear as if baked
together. It contains a large quantity of peat-moss,
and has plenty of fresh water. Some years since, part
of the land near the middle of the island sank without
any visible cause, occasioning a vast chasm.
EARLSFERRY, a burgh
of regality, in the parish of
Kilconquhar, district of
St. Andrew's, county of
Fife, •§ a mile (W.) from
Elie, and 2 miles (S.) from
Colinsburgh; containing 496
inhabitants. This place,
which is of great antiquity,
and originally an inconsi-
derable fishing -village, de-
rived its name, and, accord-
ing to some, its erection
into a royal burgh, from Macduff, Thane or Earl of
Fife, who, fleeing from the usurper Macbeth, took shelter
in a small recess in Kincraig hill, a precipitous rock
rising abruptly from the south-western coast of the
parish. After remaining for some time in concealment,
he was conveyed across the Frith of Forth, to Dunbar,
by the fishermen of the village ; and in return for the
kindness he had experienced, he is said to have obtained
from ;Malcolm III. a charter of incorporation for the
351
Burgh Seal.
inhabitants, erecting the village into a royal burgh, to
which, in memory of his escape, he gave the appellation
of Earl's Ferry. Among the privileges conferred was
that of sanctuary to all who should sail from this place
across the Frith ; it was ordained that their persons
should be inviolable while here, and that, after their
embarkation, no boat should be allowed to go in pursuit
of them till they were half way across. The place,
after it became a burgh, appears to have carried on a
large trade ; two weekly markets and two annual fairs
were held, and the provost and bailies levied dues and
customs. But the want of a convenient harbour pre-
vented its attaining much consideration as a port ; its
trade, which had for many years been declining, was,
from the construction of a harbour and the erection of a
pier at Elie, in its immediate neighbourhood, at length
wholly transferred to that place ; and both its fairs and
markets have been consequently discontinued. The
inhabitants are chiefly employed in the coal-works in
the vicinity of the town, and in weaving for the manu-
facturers of Dundee, Kirkcaldy, and other places ; the
articles woven are, sheetings, dowlas, and -.checks, which
are wrought in hand-looms by the people at their own
dwellings. There are about seventy seamen engaged in
the harbour and at the ferry ; and during the months of
July and August, a few of them are employed in the
herring-fishery on the north-east coast. Many of the
weavers who have been brought up as seamen occupy
themselves in summer in the whale-fisheries on the
coast of Greenland, from which pursuit they return to
their looms in the winter. The original charter of
Malcolm, which was bestowed in the eleventh century,
was destroyed by fire ; and a new charter, confirming
all the privileges it had conferred, was in 15S9 granted
by James VI., by which the government is vested in
three bailies, a treasurer, and a council of sixteen bur-
gesses, assisted by a town-clerk and other officers.
The bailies and treasurer are elected annually by the
council for the time being, and on their appointment
nominate the council for the following year ; they are
invested with the power to hold courts for the deter-
mination of civil and criminal causes ; but since 1S20,
only five civil and one criminal case have been de-
cided. Prior to the Union in 1707, the burgh, on its
own petition, had been relieved from sending a member
to the Scottish parliament ; and it was consequently, on
that event, not included in those towns which jointly
return a member to the English house of commons.
Nor, since the passing of the act of the 2nd and 3rd of
William IV., has the burgh possessed any privileges
of this kind, having merely shared with the rest of
Fife in the election of a county representative. The
prison is in a state of dilapidation ; it was latterly seldom
used, and only for the temporary confinement of indi-
viduals found guilty of misdemeanours ; and on the
recent passing of the Prisons' act, it was abolished as a
gaol.
EARLSTOUN, a parish, in the county of Berwick ;
including the villages of Fans, Mellerstain, and Redpath,
and containing 1756 inhabitants, of whom 927 are in
the village of Earlstoun, 4 miles (N. by E.) from Mel-
rose. The name of this parish, anciently Ersildun or
Ersildon, which appears to have been gradually changed
into Earlstoun, is traced by some antiquaries to the
Cambo-British word Arcwl-dwi, signifying " the prospect
EARL
E A R L
hill," from a commanding eminence on the south of the
village and church. It is, however, perhaps more cor-
rectly derived from the name Earl, with the common
termination of don, ton, or town, on account of its having
belonged to the earls of March, who were seated here
from the 12th century till 1453, when they incurred a
forfeiture. David I. occasionally resided in this part,
and James IV., in the year 1506, granted the barony
to Mungo Home, whose family had previously esta-
blished their residence at Cowdenknows, on the Leader,
about three-quarters of a mile below the village of Earls-
toun. This village, on the 1st of February, 1590-1,
was made a burgh of barony by James VI., in favour
of John Home, of Cowdenknows, the great grandson of
Mungo ; and the grant was confirmed in 1592. In
1636, Sir James Home, the lineal descendant of this
family, succeeded to the earldom of Home, Earl James
having died without issue. The parish lies in the
south-western extremity of the county, and is about
six miles in length, from east to west, and about four
and a half in breadth, and is bounded on the north by
the parishes of Gordon and Legerwood, on the south
by Mertoun, on the east by Smailholm and Nenthorn,
and on the west by Melrose, in Roxburghshire. The
surface in the vicinity of most of the streams is tolera-
bly even, but in the western quarter it is more hilly,
though there is no remarkable eminence, except in one
place, about a mile south of the village, where the
ground attains an elevation of 1000 feet above the level
of the sea. There are two considerable rivers, the Eden
on the east, and the Leader on the west, both of which
rise in Lammermoor, and flow into the Tweed, and
are celebrated for their fine trout. The scenery of the
latter is in some parts extremely beautiful ; and its
windings between the hills of Carolside, and through
the classic grounds of Cowdenknows, have been the in-
spiring theme of Scottish song.
The soil is of different varieties ; that of the arable
land is generally dry, and in some parts a rich fertile
loam. In the eastern quarter is a considerable extent
of marshy ground; barren heath is met with in many
places, and in the northern district is a moss consisting
of several hundreds of acres. About 5600 acres are
cultivated or occasionally in tillage, and 2118 are waste
or in pasture; the wood covers 915 acres, and on the
Mellerstain estate, where timber is regularly cut for
sale, a large extent of waste has been planted with
Scotch fir. Grain of all kinds is raised, but the quan-
tity, especially of wheat, has been small, the soil being
chiefly suited to turnips, large crops of which are pro-
duced. The five years' rotation system" is usually fol-
lowed, consisting of two years' grass ; oats ; turnips ;
and, lastly, oats or barley, with grass seeds. The sheep
mostly bred are the Leicesters, and the cattle are the
short-horned, to the rearing of which much attention
is paid. Many improvements have been effected in the
culture of the lands ; and although great losses have
been sustained in some cases by the reclaiming of
waste, yet considerable progress has been made in this
respect, and the extensive tract of moss before named,
having been redeemed at an expense of from £1200 to
£1400, now affords tolerable pasture for cattle. On
the estate of Cowdenknows much benefit has been de-
rived from laying out plantations, which greatly orna-
ment the vicinity of the Leader as well as the village
352
of Earlstoun. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £S533.
At Mellerstain, the seat of the ancient family of
Baillie, is a large and elegant mansion, built by the grand-
father of the present owner, George Baillie, Esq. ; it is
embosomed in a forest of noble trees, which cover and
adorn a wide extent of country. Cowdenknows, now
the property of James Gilfillan, Esq., stands on the
Leader, amid scenery which has for hundreds of years
been celebrated for its beauty ; and Carolside, belonging
to Alexander Mitchel, Esq., is also seated on the banks of
the river, in a delightfully secluded vale surrounded by
hills, and is remarkable for the variety of the attractions
in its vicinity. The village of Earlstoun is situated on
the Leader, near the new line of road from Jedburgh to
Edinburgh ; and the road from Kelso passes through
it. There are two manufactures carried on in the
parish ; one is that of ginghams, merinos, shawls, mus-
lins, shirtings, and furniture stripes ; and the other of
plaidings, blankets, flannels, and other woollens. In
the former, which is wholly pursued by hand-loom
weavers, about eighty persons are employed ; in the
latter the number of hands is about forty. Two fairs
of considerable importance are held yearly at Earlstoun,
principally for horses and cattle, one on the 29th of
June, and the other on the third Thursday in October.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery
of Lauder and synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; patron,
the Crown. The stipend of the minister is £21S, and
there is a manse, erected in 1S14, and repaired in 1S24,
to which is attached a glebe valued at £37 per annum.
The church, built in 1736, and enlarged and thoroughly
repaired in 1S32, is situated in the village, nearly at
one extremity of the parish ; it formerly accommodated
only 450 persons, but on account of its recent enlarge-
ment it is now capable of holding nearly 200 more.
The members of the Free Church have a place of wor-
ship, and there are also meeting-houses for Antiburghers
and the Relief body. In the parochial school, the clas-
sics, French, mathematics, and all the usual branches
of education are taught ; the salary of the master is £2S,
with £32 from fees, and the interest of £550 bequeathed
partly by the Rev. Robert Young, and partly by the
late Dr. James Wilson, who was educated in the school,
and long resident in India. A school at Mellerstain is
partly supported by the Baillie family ; and at Fans
and Redpath are other schools. At Cowdenknows is
an ancient tower in a state of good preservation, bearing
on its walls the date 1573 ; but the chief relic of anti-
quity is part of a tower standing at the west end of the
village, called Rhymer's Tower, the ancient residence
of Sir Thomas Learmont, or Thomas of Ercildoune,
commonly called Thomas the Rhymer, the earliest, and
in some respects the most remarkable, poet of Scotland.
His predictions respecting many families of importance,
and with regard to the ruin of his own family, and
the union of the British dominions under one monarch,
are all particularly noticed by Sir Walter Scott in the
Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border. He. lived about the
end of the 13th century, and held a considerable por-
tion of the lands of the parish. On the summit of
Blackhill is a vitrified fort, and in various parts of the
parish are circular encampments of the primitive in-
habitants. Near the western extremity of the village
there existed some years ago an ancient thorn-tree, to
E A S D
E A S S
which the older people attached the magic power of
sustaining the fortunes of the place, so long as it re-
mained untouched.
EARN, BRIDGE OF, a village, in the parish of
Dunbarny, county of Perth, 3 miles (S. by E.) from
Perth ; containing 369 inhabitants. This place, which
takes its name from its situation near a bridge across
the river Earn, consists of two portions. The one was
commenced about 1769, by Mr. John Gilloch, who had
obtained from Sir William Moncrieffe a ninety-nine
years' lease of a tract of land between the old bridge
of Earn and Seale's bridge ; and the other was erected
in 1S32, and forms a street of regularly-disposed houses,
intended chiefly for the accommodation of persons
visiting the celebrated mineral wells of Pitkeithly, at a
short distance from this spot, and within the confines
of the parish. These waters belong to the saline class,
as distinguished from the acidulous, chalybeate, and
sulphureous, and contain carbonate of lime, sulphate of
soda, chloride of calcium, and chloride of sodium, the
two last being the principal ingredients ; there are
also portions of carbonic acid and nitrogen. They
have long been in repute for their efficacy in hepatic,
scrofulous, and many other complaints, and are visited
by numerous invalids, and used both internally and ex-
ternally, and both warm and cold. There is an inn
near the wells, fitted up for the accommodation of
strangers, and formerly the mansion-house occupied
by the proprietor of Pitkeithly ; but the chief inn is
the Moncrieffe Arms, at the village. Apartments of
every kind may also be obtained at the several lodging-
houses ; and a regular post-office is established here for
the surrounding district. One of the most picturesque
and interesting objects in the pleasing scenery of the
vicinity is the new and elegant bridge, of three elliptical
arches, erected over the river in 1S21 by the city of
Perth, at a cost of £16,000, in place of the old bridge,
built about 500 years since, and of which two of the
five arches still remain, overgrown with ivy. Two
mail-coaches between Edinburgh and Perth pass through
the village, besides many other conveyances to different
parts. The parish church and manse, also, are situated
here.
EASDALE, an island of the Hebrides, annexed to
the parish of Kilbrandon, in the district of Lorn,
county of Argyll, and containing 531 inhabitants.
This island is situated a little to the west of that of
Seil, belonging to the same parish, from which it is
separated by a narrow channel called Easdale Sound ;
it is washed by the Atlantic on the south, and the
Sound of Mull on the west and north-west, and is less
than a square mile in extent. The village is built on
both sides of the sound, and is chiefly inhabited by per-
sons employed in the slate-quarries, whose tenements
are one story high, with good slate roofs, and of neat
and comfortable appearance. Though slate of the same
kind is obtained in the islands of Seil and Luing, Eas-
dale is the chief seat of the operations for raising the
fine blue durable material for which it has been so
long and justly celebrated ; the whole island consists
of it, and there is one quarry 120 feet below the level
of the sea. The quarries, which are in extensive opera-
tion, have been wrought for nearly two centuries ; and
the four now open in the islands employ about 200
men, and produce from four to five millions of slates
Vol. I. — 353
annually : much of the labour formerly done by horses,
carts, &c, is now effected by the aid of steam-engines
and by railroads. The steamers running between Glas-
gow and the northern ports pass along the Sound of
Easdale, and a post communicates daily with Oban.
There is a school supported by the Society for Propa-
gating Christian Knowledge.
EASSIE and NEVAY, a parish, in the county of
Forfar, about 3 miles (E.) from Meigle ; containing
732 inhabitants. These two districts, formerly separate
parishes, are together about four miles in length, and
three in average breadth, comprising an area of 5000
acres, of which, with the exception of a small proportion
of pasture and woodland, the whole is arable. The sur-
face is varied ; in Eassie it is partly level, but the greater
portion is included in the Sidlaw hills, of which the
northern declivity occupies nearly one-half of the parish.
The river Dean is the northern boundary of the dis-
trict of Eassie, along which it winds with a scarcely
perceptible current, though, from the great depth of its
channel, and the numerous and sudden changes in its
course, it frequently overflows its banks, and inundates the
adjacent lands. The soil in the lower grounds is a fine
black mould, but towards the hills becomes less fertile,
and near the summits affords only tolerable pasturage ;
in Nevay it is partly marshy, with moss, and in Eassie
is a tract of strong rich clay, well adapted for grain.
The arable lands are in the highest state of cultivation,
producing oats and barley, of which, from the great
attention paid to them, considerable quantities are sent
to various parts of the country for seed. Much care
has been bestowed on the improvement of live stock ;
the cattle are principally the Angus and the short-
horned ; numerous flocks of sheep, chiefly of a mixed
breed between the Highland and the Leicestershire, are
fed on the pastures, and in autumn many are fed on
turnips, and fattened for the market. The farms ave-
rage about 200 acres in extent, and the farm-buildings
are generally substantially built, on the most improved
plan, and well arranged ; the plantations, which are
mostly of recent growth, consist mainly of larch and
Scotch fir, and are in a thriving state. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £4019.
There are several small scattered hamlets, but no regu-
lar village ; the population is chiefly agricultural, and a
small number are employed in the manufacture of coarse
linen, chiefly for domestic use. Freestone of good qua-
lity is found in the parish, and is quarried to a con-
siderable extent. The river Dean abounds with trout,
and is much frequented by anglers. The high road
from Aberdeen to Edinburgh passes through the parish;
and the Newtyle and Glammis railway, joining the
Dundee and Cupar- Angus line, affords facility of com-
munication with Dundee, the principal market of this
part of the country, and conveyance for supplies of coal,
lime, and manure. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Meigle and
synod of Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend is
£161, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per
annum ; patron, Lord Wharncliffe. The church is a
handsome structure, erected in 1833 on a site con-
venient for both districts. The parochial school is well
conducted ; the master has a salary of £34, with a
house and garden, and the fees average about £18 per
annum. There is a parochial library containing a good
2 Z
EAST
EAST
collection of works, chiefly on religious subjects. The
poor are partly supported by the proceeds of a fund
of £120: a bequest of £100 by Miss Ogilvie, of West
Hall, for such as are not on the parish list, has been
entirely expended. About a mile from the old church
of Eassie is a large circular mound, on which stands the
farm-house of Castle-Nairn ; part of the broad moat
that surrounded it is still remaining. It is supposed to
have been an intrenchment occupied by the army of
Edward of England during his invasion of the country.
There is also a large stone obelisk in the parish, curi-
ously sculptured with hieroglyphic characters.
EAST COALTOWN.— Se'e Coaltown, East.— And
all places having a similar distinguishing prefix, will be
found under the proper name.
EASTBAKNS, a village, in the parish of Dunbar,
county of Haddington, 3 miles (S. E.byE.) from Dun-
bar; containing 125 inhabitants. It is situated near
the coast of the German Sea, in the eastern extremity
of the parish, and is distant from Westbarns, a more
populous village, about five miles. There was a Burgher
meeting-house here till the year 1820, when the con-
gregation removed to the town of Dunbar; and one
of the parochial schools is still fixed at this place.
EASTHOUSES, a village, in the parish of New-
battle, county of Edinburgh, 1 mile (E.) from New-
battle ; containing 420 inhabitants. This is a consider-
able colliery village, the population of which is chiefly
employed in the neighbouring mines of the Marquess
of Lothian, which are very extensive. The parochial
school is situated in the village.
EASTWOOD, or POLLOCK, a parish, in the Upper
ward of the county of Renfrew, 2-§ miles (S. W.) from
Glasgow ; containing, with the incorporated town of
Pollockshaws, the village of Thornliebank, and part of
the late quoad sacra district of Levern, 7970 inhabitants.
This place derives the former of its names from the
relative situation of an extensive wood which was a part
of it, but which has long been converted into arable
land ; and the latter name from the circumstance of
the chief lands being designated Pollock. The parish
is about four miles in length, from north to south, and
three miles in breadth, forming an irregular area of
5000 acres in extent, and is bounded on the west by the
parish of Paisley, of which a considerable portion is
circumscribed by the lands of Eastwood. The surface
is pleasingly undulated, intersected with tracts of level
ground, and rising towards the south into a range of
hills, of which the highest has an elevation of 300 feet
above the level of the sea. The scenery is diversified,
and in many parts embellished with flourishing plan-
tations, and watered by winding streams, which give to
it an interesting and picturesque appearance. The river
White Cart, rising in the moors of Eaglesham, flows for
several miles through the parish in its course to the
Clyde, receiving at Pollockshaws the waters of the
Auldhouse burn, which issues from a lake in the adjoin-
ing parish of Mearns ; and the Brock burn, which also
rises in Mearns, winds through Eastwood, and falls into
the Levern, which skirts the western extremity of the
parish, and joins the Cart near Cruickston Castle. The
soil in the hilly parts towards the south is thin and
light, but on the banks of the river and rivulets ex-
tremely rich and fertile ; about one-half of the lands is
arable and in profitable cultivation, and the remainder,
354
with the exception of about 250 acres of natural wood
and 100 of plantation, is good pasture land. The rota-
tion system of husbandry is prevalent ; the crops are,
oats, barley, and wheat, with potatoes and turnips ;
some attention is paid to the rearing of cattle^which
are generally of the Ayrshire breed, but the management
of live stock forms only a secondary object with the
farmer, and consequently Few fine specimens are fpro-
duced. Considerable progress has been made in reclaim-
ing the waste, of which large portions have been brought
into a state of cultivation, and great improvements have
been effected in draining and fencing ; the farm-houses
and offices are substantial and commodious, and mostly
roofed with slate. The plantations are, oak, elm, ash,
sycamore, beech, larch, and Scotch, spruce, and sil-
ver firs. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£21,061.
The substrata are sandstone and limestone, with occa-
sional belts of ironstone. There are some valuable quar-
ries of stone of excellent quality for building and for
various other purposes ; the stone of one of the quar-
ries is peculiarly adapted for pavements, hearths, and
staircases, and, as it may be cut to any required size, is
also employed for cisterns. Another of these quarries
produces a very superior kind which is in great demand
for the finer parts of masonry, and is much admired for
the uses of the sculptor and the statuary. Limestone
is still worked at Arden, and was formerly wrought at
Darnley and Cowgleu ; but it is of very inferior quality,
unfit for burning into lime, and consequently applied
chiefly to road-making, and for roughcasting the walls
of houses, for which purpose it is well adapted from the
hardness it acquires from exposure to the air. Coal
abounds in the parish, and is wrought at Cowglen ;
there are several seams, varying in thickness, but none
exceed three feet. Five of these have been worked with
success ; they are of good quality, and yield an ample
supply of fuel ; the pits vary from ten to forty fathoms
in depth, and the annual produce is estimated at nearly
£4000. Pollock, the seat of Sir John Maxwell, Bart.,
is a handsome modern mansion pleasantly situated.
A considerable number of the inhabitants are employed
in cotton-spinning, weaving, bleaching, and calico-print-
ing, for which large factories have been established in
the town of Pollockshaws, the village of Thornliebank,
and Auldhouse. In the bleachfields of the last, more
than 200 persons are employed ; the particulars of the
two first will be found in the notices of those places
under their respective heads. The parish is in the
presbytery of Paisley and synod of Glasgow and Ayr,
and in the gift of Sir John Maxwell ; the minister's
stipend is £150, with a manse, and a glebe valued
at £35 per annum. The old church was taken down,
and a new edifice erected in 1781 near the western
extremity of Pollockshaws ; it is a neat building, and
in good repair, but affords accommodation only to 760
persons. A second church connected with the Esta-
blishment has been recently erected in Pollockshaws ;
and there are places of worship for members of the Free
Church, the United Associate Synod, and the Synod
of Original Seceders : the Roman Catholics, of whom-
there are many in the parish, attend the chapel at
Glasgow. The parochial school affords instruction to
about 100 scholars; the master has a salary of £34,
with £36 fees, and a house and garden. There are no
ECCL
E C C L
monuments of antiquity : the only memorials of olden
times are some documents in the possession of the
Maxwell family, consisting chiefly of a royal precept
issued in the reign of James V., letters from the Queen
Regent, Mary, Queen of Scots, previously to the hattle
of Langside, and James VI. ; and the original copy
of the Solemn League and Covenant, with the various
subscriptions, beautifully written. Among the distin-
guished literary men connected with Eastwood have
been, Wodrow, author of some writings on the anti-
quities of Scotland, of some lives of the most learned
men who have flourished in the country, and of a his-
tory of the Church ; the Rev. Mr. Crawford, author of an
unpublished history of the Church from the first intro-
duction of Christianity into Scotland till the year 1680 ;
and Walter Stewart, of Pardovan, author of the Collec-
tions, who died here while on a visit to the Maxwells,
and was interred in the aisle of the church appropriated
as a place of sepulture for the members of that family,
and in which a marble monument was erected to his
memory. Wodrow and Mr. Crawford were both minis-
ters of the parish.
ECCLES, a parish, in the county of Berwick,
6 miles (\V. by N.) from Coldstream ; containing, with
the villages of Leitholm and Birgham, 1946 inha-
bitants. The name of this parish is derived from the
classical word signifying a church, supposed to be ap-
plied on account of the number of churches or chapels
at one time situated here. It is remarkable as con-
taining the ancient village of Birgham, celebrated for
the meeting, in 11S8, between Hugh, Bishop of Durham,
and William the Lion, at the instance of Henry II. of
England, for the purpose of laying a tax upon the
Scots towards the support of the war in the Holy
Land. At that place, also, was convened, in 1290, an
august assembly, for the settlement of the marriage of
Prince Edward, son of Edward I., with Margaret of
Scotland, a union afterwards prevented by the death
of the young princess, in one of the Orkneys. The pa-
rish was anciently the seat of Bernardine or Cistercian
nuns, for whom a convent was founded by Cospatrick,
Earl of Dunbar; but the building has entirely disap-
peared, with the exception of two vaults, now converted
into cellars for the mansion-house of one of the landed
proprietors. There is much obscurity in ancient do-
cuments respecting the date of this religious house,
Hoveden and the Melrose Chronicle representing it as
founded a second time by the earl, in 1154, and Cowpar
fixing the event in 1155, while the Scoto-Chronicon
annexed to Fordun asserts it to have been established
by his countess. In 1296, during the interregnum in
Scotland, Ada de Fraser, the prioress, obtained a letter
of restitution, in consequence of the fealty sworn to
Edward I. by the Scots ; and in 1333, Edward III.,
after taking Berwick, also received the homage of the
convent. It was visited in 1523, on the 13th of Novem-
ber, by the Duke of Albany when retreating from Wark
Castle ; he stayed till midnight, and then marched to
Lauder. In 1545, the abbey and town, with the tower
of Mersington, were destroyed by the Earl of Hertford
on his memorable inroad into Merse and Teviotdale,
when he ravaged and burned the whole country without
opposition. In 1569, Marieta Hamilton, then prioress
of the establishment, granted the village and lauds of
Eccles, by charter, to Sir Alexander Hamilton, of In-
355
nerwick ; and the charter was confirmed by Queen
Mary at Edinburgh, on the 11th of May, in the same
year. In the 17th century the village was erected into
a burgh of barony in favour of George Home, Earl of
Dunbar.
The parish is nearly seven miles long, and five and
a half broad, and contains 11,000 acres. With the
exception of the slight elevations of Cotchet Ridge,
Hardacres, Eccles, Brae-Dunstan, and Bartlehill, the
surface is level throughout ; and consists of arable
land, well cultivated and fenced, and studded with
numerous plantations. The climate, however, is some-
what damp, and to a slight extent unhealthy, arising
from the prevalence of a rainy atmosphere. The scenery
is much enlivened by the course of the Tweed, which
runs on the southern boundary of the parish, and
separates it from Northumberland ; its banks rise
about fifty feet above the water, and harbour large
numbers of foxes, weasels, and rabbits. The soil near
the river is in general light ; in the middle and northern
parts of the parish clay and loam predominate, and
in the south-east quarter is a portion of moor. Nearly
the whole is arable, producing excellent crops of all
kinds of grain, and turnips and potatoes : the rotation
here followed is the four or the five years' shift, which
is considered well suited to the district. Sheep are
kept on most of the larger farms, and consist mainly
of the Cheviot and Leicestershire breeds, the former of
which, on account of their being more hardy, are pre-
ferred for the clayey lands. Rapid advances have been
made in agricultural improvement, and the rateable
annual value of the parish now amounts to as large a
sum as £19,4-11. The prevailing rock is the red sand-
stone, which exists in a great variety of forms and ad-
mixtures. At Birgham Haugh, magnesian limestone,
with red hornstone and crystals of calcareous spar, is
found ; and on the southern bank of the river, in addi-
tion to the above, are considerable quantities of clay-
stone porphyry. Near Kennetside head, the large
proportion of siliceous material gives the sandstone
almost the appearance of a quartz rock ; and in the
marly sandstone on the banks of the small river Leet
are thin beds of gypsum. Among the mansions in the
parish are Purves Hall, Kames, Antonshill, Belchester,
Stoneridge, and Eccles House, and in the plantations
of the last-mentioned are several fine old trees, chiefly
elm and ash. There are four villages, Eccles, Leitholm,
Birgham, and Hassington ; Leitholm is the largest, and
has a bye-post to Coldstream. The London and Edin-
burgh road, by Greenlaw, traverses the parish from
south-east to north-west ; and that by Kelso, and the
road from Kelso to Berwick, also cross it.
The ecclesiastical affairs are governed by the pres-
bytery of Dunse and synod of Merse and Teviotdale ;
patron, the Crown. The stipend of the minister is
£246, and there is a manse, with a glebe of twenty acres
of good land. The first church was dedicated to St.
Cuthbert, but the next, built about the year 1250, was
in honour of St. Andrew ; the present church was
erected in 1774, at an expense of £1000. It is after
the model of St. Cuthbert's chapel-of-ease at Edinburgh,
and is an elegant building seventy-eight feet long and
thirty-four feet broad, and ornamented with a handsome
spire ; it is situated about a mile from the western
boundary of the parish, and contains 1000 sittings.
2 Z 2
E C CL
E CHT
The Relief Congregation have a place of worship, and
there is a parochial school, in which the classics, mathe-
matics, and all the usual branches of education are
taught ; the salary of the master is £34, with the fees,
and a house. A friendly society for the relief of the sick
and superannuated has also been established. The chief
relic of antiquity is a monument of white sandstone, in
the form of a cross, without any inscription, situated at
Crosshall, about a mile to the north of the village of
Eccles. The pedestal is a solid block of stone, two and
a half feet high, three feet square on its upper surface,
and raised a little above the ground ; the column is ten
feet high, one and a half foot broad on the west and
east sides, and one foot on the north and south, at the
bottom. On its north face is sculptured a Calvary
cross, surmounted by a shield ; at. the summit of the
west side is a cross, with an escutcheon below having
chevrons in the dexter and sinister chief's and the base,
and a St. John's cross. The south side has an escut-
cheon like that on the west, and beneath an ancient
double-handed sword ; the east has a cross, and, below,
the naked figure of a man and a greyhound. Many
conjectures have been made respecting its origin and
design ; the most, probable is that it was erected after
the second crusade, in 1114, in honour of the father of
Sir John de Soules, lieutenant or viceroy to John Baliol.
On Hardacres hill, about a mile to the west of the
monument, are traces of intrenehments. Eccles was
the birthplace of Henry Home, Lord Karnes, in 1696;
and it was here that he entertained Dr. Franklin and
his son in 1/59, and composed many of his philosophical
works.
ECCLESCRAIG, Kincardine.— See St. Cyrxjs.
ECCLESFECHAN, a village, in the parish of Hod-
dam, county of Dumfries, 6 miles (N.) from Annan ;
containing 768 inhabitants. It is very centrally situated,
in the south-eastern part of the parish, on the road
between Carlisle and Glasgow, and is an important
and thriving market-village, containing many respect-
able shops in various branches of trade. A large part
of the population is engaged in the manufacture of
gingham, which is the chief product of the place. It
has a noted cattle fair or market, to which its prosperity
has been principally owing, and also a flourishing pork-
market ; the former is held monthly, but the great
sales are in June and October, and the latter is held
during the winter. In the vicinity are five cross-roads,
and there are carriers to almost every part within
fifty miles, and facilities of communication in nearly
every direction. A post-office has for some time been
established. The parochial church stands about a mile
south of the village ; and the members of the Free
Church have a place of worship.
ECCLESMACHAN, a parish, in the county of
Linlithgow j containing, with the villages of Three-
Mile-town and Waterston, 303 inhabitants, of whom
97 are in the village of Ecclesmachan, 1 mile (N.)
from Uphall. This place derives its name from the
dedication of its ancient church to St. Machan, who
flourished in the ninth century. The parish, which is
separated into two detached portions by the interven-
tion of a part of the parish of Linlithgow, comprises an
area of 2458 acres ; about 2300 are arable and pasture,
130 woodland and plantations, and the remainder roads
and waste. The surface rises into two ridges, of which
356
that in the western portion of the parish attains an
elevation of 600 feet, and is intersected by several shal-
low ravines ; the eastern ridge, of less height, is pre-
cipitously steep, rising on the south into an abrupt
eminence called Tar or Tor Hill. The lower grounds
are watered by several small streams that flow into the
river Almond ; and the prevailing scenery is softened
by the thriving plantations that have been formed on
the lands of Blackcraig. The soil is generally fertile ;
the lands, which are divided into farms of moderate
extent, are under good cultivation, and the best system
of husbandry has been adopted. The crops are, wheat,
barley, oats, beans, and turnips ; the grounds are well
inclosed with hedges of thorn and ditches, and draining
has been practised to some extent, but there is still
great room for improvement. The rearing of live stock
is confined chiefly to the Ayrshire breed of cattle, with
a cross of the short-horned ; oxen of the Angus or
Highland breed, and black-faced sheep, are fattened
on the pastures. Coal is plentiful, and was formerly
wrought in several parts ; sandstone is found on most
of the lands; and in the vicinity of the rocks, which
are principally of trap, are found large beds of indurated
clay, interspersed occasionally with seams of ironstone.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £2718.
The village consists of a few houses near the church,
and facility of communication is afforded by roads kept
in excellent repair by statute labour, and by the road
from Edinburgh to Falkirk, and the Glasgow middle
road, of which the former passes through the northern
extremity of the parish, and the latter close by its
southern border. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Linlithgow
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; patron, the
Earl of Hopetoun. The minister's stipend is £256. 12.,
with a mause, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum.
The church, which was nearly rebuilt in the beginning
of the last century, and thoroughly repaired in 1S22, is
a plain structure containing 153 sittings. The paro-
chial school is attended by about fifty children : the
master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden,
and the fees average about £20 per annum. A school
was erected on the border of the parish by the late
Robert Warden, Esq. ; the master is solely dependent
on the fees, having only the house rent free, which in
summer is used as a preaching-station on the Sabbath
evenings. On the Tar hill is a spring called the
Bullion Well, the water of which is slightly impregnated
with sulphuretted hydrogen. William Hamilton, a poet
of eminence in the early part of the 18th century, was
either born, or resided in the parish.
ECHT, a parish, in the district of Kincardine
O'Neil, county of Aberdeen, 12 miles (W.) from
Aberdeen; containing 107S inhabitants. This parish is
nearly a square in figure, each side measuring about
four and a half miles, and comprises between 15,000
and 16,000 acres, of which 7000 are in tillage, 2000 in
plantations, and the remainder uncultivated. It con-
sists chiefly of a valley lying between two hills of un-
equal height, of which the more elevated, called the Hill
of Fare, is situated about one mile south-west from the
church, though but partly in the parish. The base of
this hill is nearly eighteen miles in circumference, and
its height 1794 feet above the level of the sea; it has
some thriving plantations of fir, abundance of the usual
ECHT
ECKF
kinds of game, and several chalybeate springs, said to
be beneficial in scorbutic and nephritic complaints. On
the outskirts of the parish are other rising grounds,
cultivated to the summit. ; and in the north-western
portion is a hill of conical form, called the Barmekin,
about two -thirds of the height of the Hill of Fare, entirely
shrouded in wood, and contributing, by its sylvan beau-
ties, to enhance the effect of the varied and pleasing
scenery of the locality. The lower grounds are mossy ;
the soil in some places is light and sandy, but that of
the best lands is in general a light loam, on a clayey
subsoil; the climate is mild, and the crops, comprising
bear, potatoes, hay, turnips, and oats, are early and of
good quality. The system of farming has been greatly
improved within the present century ; some of the
estates exhibit the skill and perseverance of the most
successful husbandry ; lime manure is extensively used,
and bone-dust has recently been applied with much
advantage. Among the large tracts of waste land which
have been reclaimed, that on the estate of Echt, amount-
ing to 1S60 acres, is the chief. Inclosures and drains
have been formed on all the principal farms ; there are
many substantial and convenient houses and offices, and
above forty mills have been erected for threshing grain.
The few sheep kept are the Cheviot and black-faced,
and the cattle are mostly the Aberdeenshire. Granite is
occasionally quarried. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £5690.
Between 1500 and 2000 acres have been planted in
the last half century on the estate of Echt, and the pro-
prietor has transplanted about 150 large trees to orna-
ment the beautiful grounds of his elegant and commo-
dious mansion: the house was built in the year 1S20,
and stands in a park of eighty acres, attached to which
is a very extensive and productive rrarden. A branch
post has been established : the parish is intersected by
the high road from Aberdeen to Tarland, and a road
from the former place to Alford runs along a small part
of the northern extremity of Echt ; a third road, to
Kincardine O'Neil, strikes off from the Tarland road at
the eastern boundary, and traverses a considerable por-
tion of the parish in a south-western direction. Several
fairs are held annually, chiefly for sheep, cattle, horses,
and corn. The parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine
O'Neil and synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of
the Earl of Fife ; the minister's stipend is £183, with a
manse, and a glebe of about four and a half acres, valued
at £10 per annum. The church, built in 1S04, accom-
modates 400 persons ; it is a neat structure, comfort-
ably fitted up, and, being centrally situated, is conve-
nient for the bulk of the population. The parochial
school affords instruction in the usual branches ; the
master has a salary of £29, with a house, and £20 fees,
and also participates in the benefit of the Dick bequest.
The remains of a Danish camp are still visible on the
hill of Barmekin, comprehending five intrenchments ;
the inner inclosure, which is almost circular, measures
300 feet in diameter, and covers about one acre of
ground. In the vicinity are several cairns and tumuli,
and in another part of the parish is a Pictish work in
the form of a horse-shoe. On the 28th of October,
1562, the district was the scene of the battle of
Corrichie, fought between the forces of the Earl of
Huntly and those of the Earl of Murray ; the former
were defeated, and their commander slain, and his son,
357
Sir John Gordon, soon afterwards beheaded at Aber-
deen.
ECKFORD, a parish, in the district of Kelso,
county of Roxburgh ; containing, with the villages of
Caverton and Cessford, 1069 inhabitants, of whom 98
are in the village of Eckford, 5 miles (S. by W.) from
Kelso, and 48 in that of Eckfordmoss, adjoining. This
place appears to have derived its name from a ford
across the river Teviot near the village, and from the
number of oak-trees with which the immediate neigh-
bourhood abounded. On account of its situation only
a few miles from the border, it was frequently the scene
of violence and devastation, and within the limits of
the parish were several strongholds for defence against
the incursions of the English, and as places of security
for cattle and other property. The principal of these
were, Ormiston, Eckford, and Moss Towers, of which the
last, was the most important, both for its strength and
for its position in a marsh near the village, and also
from its being the residence of Hepburn, Earl of Both-
well. This castle was assaulted in 1523 by a party of
English led by Thomas, Lord Dacre, who, on the same
day, demolished Ormiston Tower and numerous other
places in the vicinity; and in 1544 it was burnt, to-
gether with the tower and church of Eckford, by a body
of the English under Sir Ralph Eure, who put to death
nearly fifty of the inhabitants. In 1553, the village of
Eckford, which had been a town of no little importance,
was burnt by the Marquess of Dorset. The stronghold
of Moss Tower appears to have been rebuilt after its
previous destruction, but was again destroyed by the
Earl of Sussex, who, in 1570, laid waste a large portion
of the surrounding district. But the most famous for-
tress in the parish was Cessford Castle, which was
more than a mere stronghold, and of which the remains
are noticed in the ensuing page.
The parish, which is of triangular form, is about six
miles in extreme length, and four and a half in extreme
breadth, and comprises 9695 acres, of which 772S are
arable, S13 woodland and plantations, and the remain-
der rough pasture, common, and waste. The surface
is generally undulated, rising towards the south into
moderate elevations, of which the principal are Wooden
hill and Caverton hill, commanding extensive and pleas-
ingly-varied prospects, embracing on the west the fertile
vale of Teviot, with the beautiful scenery along the
banks of that river; and the vale of the river Kale,
with its picturesque ranges of hills. The Teviot has its
source among the hills that separate the counties of
Roxburgh and Dumfries, and, after flowing through the
parish, falls into the Tweed near Kelso. The Kale,
which rises in the Cheviot hills, in the county of North-
umberland, after an impetuous course of about eighteen
miles, falls into the Teviot to the north of the church ;
its banks in various parts are richly wooded. There is
a lake situated near the village, at the base of Wooden
hill; it occupies the bed of an extensive marl-pit which
was formerly wrought, and is in some places thirty feet
in depth. In the slimy bottom of this lake, medicinal
leeches of excellent quality used once to be found in
considerable numbers, though no traces of such are now
to be met with, probably from the quantity of water.
The scenery throughout Eckford is of pleasing cha-
racter, and is enriched with the flourishing plantations
that prevail in most parts of the parish. The soil is
E C K F
ED D E
various ; in the lower grounds, and more especially on
the banks of the Teviot, a light friable loam ; on the
higher grounds, partaking more of the nature of clay ■
but it is generally fertile, and by good management ren-
dered highly productive. The crops are, oats, barley,
wheat, potatoes, turnips, peas, and beans. The system of
agriculture is in a very improved state, and the five-shift
rotation of husbandry usually practised ; the lands are
well drained, and inclosed chiefly with hedges of thorn.
Much waste has been reclaimed and brought into pro-
fitable cultivation. Attention is paid to the improve-
ment of live stock ; the sheep are mostly of the Leices-
tershire breed, and the cattle pastured in the parish of
the short-horned breed. The rateable annual value of
Eckford is £8837.
The woods comprise all the varieties of forest trees,
and flourish greatly ; the plantations are chiefly of
Scotch, spruce, and silver firs, of which there is a tract
of nearly 360 acres at Caverton-Edge, where formerly
the Kelso races were held, and which, from one of the
titles of its proprietor, the Duke of Roxburghe, is called
Beaumont Forest. There are many specimens of an-
cient timber of stately growth in various parts of the
parish. The principal substrata are whinstone and
sandstone, of which also the hills are composed ; they
are both occasionally quarried for building and other
purposes. A small seam of coal was discovered many
years since at Caverton-Edge, but it was not wrought
with sufficient spirit to render it productive of any
benefit, and the works were soon after abandoned. The
manufacture of agricultural implements is carried on at
Kalemouth ; and there are mills for grinding corn at
Ormiston, Eckford, and Caverton. Marlefield House,
the property of the Marquess of Tweeddale, is a spa-
cious mansion pleasantly situated in a demesne richly
planted, and tastefully laid out ; in front of the house
is an extensive lawn, and the grounds are in some parts
embellished with avenues of lime-trees. The ancient
mansion-house of Haughhead is on the south bank of
the river Kale, near Eckford mill, and is still in a
tolerable state of repair. At a short distance from it
is an artificial mound of earth and stones intermixed,
surrounded with clumps of old fir-trees ; on the summit
is a stone commemorating the result of a dispute be-
tween Hall, the original proprietor of Haughhead, and his
neighbour, Ker, of Cessford, whom he defeated in an
attempt to take possession of his estate. The villages
have facility of intercourse with Kelso and other towns
in the district by good roads, and by two bridges over
the Teviot and Kale, both of one arch, and neatly built
of stone. An elegant chain-bridge, also, was thrown
across the Teviot, near its confluence with the Kale, by
the late William Mein, Esq., of Ormiston ; it is 180 feet
in length, and sixteen feet in breadth, and forms an
interesting feature in the landscape. The turnpike-road
from Hawick to Kelso passes through the parish, in its
western portion.
Eckford is in the presbytery of Jedburgh and synod
of Merse and Teviotdale, and patronage of the Crown ;
the minister's stipend is £219, with a manse, and glebe
valued at £12. 5. per annum. The church, which was
dependant on the abbey of Jedburgh, is a substantial
edifice finely situated on the south bank of the river
Teviot, and is adapted for a congregation of 300 persons.
There are two parochial schools, affording together in-
35S
struction to about 120 scholars. Of that in the village
of Eckford the master has a salary of £34, with a house
and garden, and fees averaging about £21 per annum ;
the master of the school at Caverton mill has a salary
of £17, with a house and garden, and fees averaging
£17, with the interest of a bequest of £40. There is
also a school at Cessford, attended by about forty scho-
lars ; the master has a schoolroom rent free, in addition
to the fees, which amount to £20. Some remains exist
of Cessford Castle, the ancient manorial residence of Sir
Robert Ker, ancestor of the Duke of Roxburghe's family,
and warden of the Scottish middle marches. This for-
tress was of considerable importance, and in 1523 the
Earl of Surrey in vain attempted to reduce it, but after
a protracted siege obtained possession by capitulation ;
the remains show it to have been of great strength.
The chief building is a quadrangular pile sixty-seven
feet long, sixty feet broad, and sixty-five feet high, with
walls nearly thirteen feet in thickness ; it was once sur-
rounded by an inner and outer wall, part of the latter
of which is still remaining, and the interval between
them is supposed to have been appropriated to the keep-
ing of cattle and other valuable property placed there
for security in times of danger. Some traces of the
moat by which the whole was inclosed may also be per-
ceived. A little to the north of the castle, and near
Cessford burn, is a cavern of considerable size, called
Hobbie Ker's Cave ; and there are several other caverns
of artificial construction in various parts of the parish.
Stone coffins have been frequently met with ; and in
one, discovered on the farm of Eckford-Eastmains in
1831, were found a few human bones, and a small
Roman jar filled with black dust. To the west of
Caverton hill are the remains of a tumulus called the
Black dyke, which has not yet been fully explored. On
the farm of Moss Tower, a coin or medal of the Empress
Faustina has been found in the peat-moss, of which the
inscription was quite legible. At Caverton was an
ancient chapel founded by Walter Ker, of Cessford ; but
there are no vestiges, though near it is a well, for many
years called Priest's well, but now almost undistinguished.
Marlefield House is said to have been the birthplace of
Sir William Bennet, the intimate friend of Ramsay,
whose pastoral of the Gentle Shepherd was first repre-
sented at a neighbouring seat, and of which the scenery
is thought to have been descriptive of Marlefield.
The poet Thomson also spent much of his time with Sir
William Bennet at this place, and he is supposed to
have composed the "Winter" of his Seasons within four
miles of Marlefield, on a hill in the adjoining parish of
Morebattle, to which he frequently resorted. Bennet
lived during the greater period of his life in the parish ;
and in an aisle adjoining the church, which was the
place of sepulture of the family, his remains were in-
terred.
EDAY, in the county of Orkney. — See Stronsay
and Eday.
EDDERTON, a parish, in the Mainland district,
county of Ross and Cromarty, 5 miles (S. W.) from
Tain, containing 975 inhabitants. This place, which
derives its name from its situation among hills that
surround it on all sides except the north, was noted
in the reign of William the Lion for its castle near
the shore of the Frith of Dornoch, erected by that
monarch to command the ferry between the counties of
E DD E
E D D L
Ross and Sutherland. In 1227, Ferquhard, or Farquhar,
Earl of Ross, having accompanied Alexander II. into
England, challenged a renowned French champion whom
he met at the court of Henry III. to single combat, and
in gratitude for his victory founded here, on his return,
the abbey of Fearns, which he amply endowed for
Augustine monks. From the frequent annoyances to
which the brethren were exposed in this situation, how-
ever, the founder, at the request of the abbot, removed
the establishment, about the year 1246, to a more se-
cluded spot about twelve miles distant, where it con-
tinued to flourish till the Reformation, when one-half of
its revenues was granted to the bishopric of Ross, and
the remainder to the Ross family of Balnagown. The
parish, which is bounded on the north by Dornoch
Frith and the Frith of Tain, is about ten miles in length,
and nearly eight miles in extreme breadth, comprising
an area of 41,760 acres, of which 1630 are arable, 710
woodlands and plantations, and the remainder meadow,
pasture, and moor. The surface is partly level, con-
sisting of three successive ledges of table-land, and in
other portions diversified with numerous hills, of which
the most conspicuous are, Cambuscurry to the east,
having an elevation of 600 feet above the level of the sea,
and the hill of Struie to the west, rising to the height of
1000 feet, both which are wholly within the parish.
Cnoc-an-t-Sabhal, on the southern boundary, is about
1000 feet in height; and Muidhe-Bhlarie, on the south-
west border, has an elevation of 1300 feet above the sea.
There are four small rivers, which have their source in
the parish, the Edderton burn, the Daan, the Easter
Fearn, and the Grugaig : during the dry season they are
very inconsiderable streams, but after rains they become
swollen and impetuous in their course, and have some-
times been known to sweep away the bridges built over
them.
The soil in the higher lands near the sea is gravelly,
in the lower a deep alluvial loam alternated with sand,
and in other places a mixture of clay, gravel, and moss ;
the arable lands are in good cultivation, and the system
of husbandry has been improved under the encourage-
ment given to his tenants by the principal landholder,
Sir Charles Ross. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £1794. The plantations, some of which are of
early date, are, oak, birch, and Scotch fir, of which last
there are about 100 acres on the lands of Balnagown in
a very nourishing condition, and chiefly of ancient
growth. In the deeper mosses are found the trunks and
roots of fir, oak, hazel, and birch, some of which are of
great dimensions. The substrata are principally old red
sandstone, conglomerate, of which the rocks are mainly
composed, and limestone ; and in the hill of Struie are
found gneiss, quartz, granite, and whinstone. The chief
residences are, Ardmore House, beautifully situated ;
Balblair ; and Upper Edderton. There is no village in
the parish : at Ardmore, on the Frith of Tain, is a good
harbour accessible to vessels of 100 tons, and during the
summer several arrive with supplies of coal, lime, and
other merchandise. At Balblair is a distillery, com-
menced about forty-five years since; it consumes 120
bushels of malt weekly, producing 240 gallons of
whisky, in very high repute. Facility of communication
with Tain, from the markets of which the inhabitants
are supplied with provisions, is afforded by the turnpike-
road to Bonar-Bridge.
359
The ecclesiastical affairs of Edderton parish are
under the superintendence of the presbytery of Tain and
synod of Ross. The minister's stipend is £203. 14., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £16 per annum ; pa-
troness, the Hon. Mrs. Hay Mackenzie, of Cromarty.
The former church, erected in 1743, and efficiently re-
paired in 1794, a neat plain structure, containing 350
sittings, being inconveniently situated, a new church
was built in 1841 in a more centrical part of the
parish. The members of the Free Church use the old
edifice. The parochial school is not well attended ; the
master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden,
and the fees average about £5 per annum. A female
school, supported by the Society for Propagating Chris-
tian Knowledge, was established in 1S37, and a Gaelic
school in 1840 by the Gaelic Society of Edinburgh.
Behind the parochial school-house is an obelisk of rough
whinstone, ten feet in height, on which is sculptured the
figure of a fish, probably a salmon, with two concentric
circles below it ; and surrounding the pillar, at a distance
of three yards from its base, is an intrenchnient about
two feet in height, inclosing an area within which a fight
took place between some of the inhabitants and a party of
Norwegian pirates, when Carius, the leader of the latter,
was killed. The name of the place is from that event
called Carry-Blair. In the churchyard is also a sculp-
tured stone, on which is a warrior on horseback, with a
large cross above, and on the other side various concentric
circles and hieroglyphics. A complete chain of circular
forts formerly surrounded the parish, but few at present
are in any tolerable state of preservation : one of them,
called Dune Alliscaig, about fourteen feet in height, and
having a spiral staircase within the walls, was in the
year 1818 demolished for the sake of the materials which
it afforded.
EDDLESTONE, a parish, in the county of Peebles ;
containing 742 inhabitants, of whom 139 are in the vil-
lage, 4 miles (N.) from Peebles. This parish, undistin-
guished b}r any events of historical importance, is about
ten miles in length, from north to south, and seven miles
in breadth, and comprises 21,250 acres, of which 4370
are arable, 1050 woodland and plantations, and 15,830
permanent pasture, and meadow. The surface is diver-
sified by hills covered with verdure to their summits ;
the highest, called Dundroieh, or Druid's hill, has an
elevation of 2100 feet above the level of the sea, and
commands an extensive and finely- varied prospect em-
bracing the Cheviot hills, part of the pleasing dales of
Teviot, Annan, and Clyde, with portions of the counties
of Perth and Fife, the river Forth, and the city of Edin-
burgh. The chief river is the South Esk, which issues
from a lake of about two miles in circumference, at the
base of Dundroieh, and flows into the sea at Musselburgh ;
the lake abounds with pike, eels, and perch, and forms
an interesting feature in the scenery, which is also en-
riched with extensive plantations of modern growth.
The soil is various, and on some of the farms might be
rendered much more fertile than it is, through the adop-
tion of a more extensive system of draining the lands.
The crops are, oats, barley, wheat, peas, potatoes, and
turnips ; the system of agriculture is in an improved
state. The buildings are substantial and commodious ;
the lands are generally well inclosed, and the fences
mostly kept in good repair. About 5500 sheep are
annually reared on the hills, of which nearly one-half are
E D D R
ED D R
of the Cheviot, and the rest of the black-faced breed ; on
the dairy-farms about 280 milch-cows are pastured,
chiefly the Ayrshire and Teeswater, and 500 head of
young cattle are annually reared. The woods and plan-
tations are well managed, and usually in a thriving con-
dition. The rateable annual value of the parish, as re-
turned for the Income tax, is £6694.
The village is pleasantly situated, neatly built, and
well inhabited ; a post-office has been established, and
has a daily delivery from Edinburgh and Peebles, with
which, and other places, there is facility of communica-
tion by roads kept in excellent order. A fair used to
be held in the village on the 25th of September ; it was
a considerable mart for cattle, and numerously attended,
but has recently been wholly discontinued. The pa-
rish is in the presbytery of Peebles and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale, and patronage of Lord Eli-
bank ; the minister's stipend is £249, with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £24 per annum. The church,
rebuilt in 1S29, is a neat and substantial edifice adapted
for a congregation of 420 persons. The parochial school
affords education to about a hundred and twenty children;
the master's salary is £34, with £42 fees, and a good
house ; he has also the privilege of taking board-
ers. There are remains of three circular camps, evi-
dently Danish : one of these, on the lands of Norshield,
has been preserved nearly in its original state of perfec-
tion, and surrounded with a plantation ; the others are
almost obliterated. On the lauds of Ringside, a vessel
has been dug up containing a large number of gold and
silver coins, the former in good preservation, but the
latter much defaced; on some was legible the inscrip-
tion Jacobus S. Scotorum Rex. Near the northern extre-
mity of this farm was a tumulus, inclosed with three
circular walls, and which was opened by the tenant, and
found to contain a rudely-formed stone coffin, in which
were human bones in a partly calcined state, and close
to it a variety of brazen weapons, in form resembling
axes ; two of them were sent to the museum of the
Antiquarian Society of Edinburgh. This farm was a
hunting-seat belonging to James VI. The Rev. Patrick
Robertson, the present incumbent, is the great-grand-
son of the Rev. James Robertson, who was ordained to
the parish in 1697, and, after a ministration of fifty
years, was succeeded by his son Alexander, who in
1*72 was followed by his son Dr. Patrick Robertson,
who held the living also for fifty years, and died in
1822.
EDDRACHILLIS, a parish, in the county of
Sutherland, 15 miles (N. N. W.) from Assynt; in-
cluding the islands of Handa and Scourie, and the late
quoad sacra district of Keanlochbervie, and containing
1699 inhabitants. The Celtic name of this place, Eadar-
da-chaolas, signifies " between two kyles or arms of the
sea," and is descriptive of the situation of the main part
of the parish between the kyle of Scow, which sepa-
rates Eddrachillis from Assynt on the south, and the
kyle of Laxford. The parish was anciently part of the
barony of Skelbo, and was granted by Hugo Freskyn
de Moravia, ancestor of the Duke of Sutherland, in the
twelfth century, to his brother, Bishop Gilbert Moray,
by whom, in 1235, it was transferred to a third brother,
Richard Moray, of Culbyn. About the year 1440, it
£ame to the family of Kinnaird of Kinnaird, by an
heiress, Egidia Moray; and in 1515, Andrew Kinnaird
360
disposed of it to John Mackay of Eddrachillis, son of
Mackay of Strathnaver, the superiority remaining with
the earls of Sutherland. In 1829, it was restored to
the Sutherland family by purchase. So early as 1550,
another branch of the Mackays seized the territory of
Scourie by displacing the Mc Leods, and located them-
selves here under the title of Mackays of Scourie ; and
from this family sprang Lieutenant-General Hugh Mac-
kay, the famous commander-in-chief in the time of
William and Mary, eminent for his skill and bravery,
and who fell in 1692, shortly after the siege of Namur,
where he commanded the British division of the grand,
army.
The parish was formerly included in Durness, but
was separated in 1726; its extreme length from north
to south is twenty-five miles, its mean breadth seven
miles, and it contains about 1 12,000 acres. It is situ-
ated in the angle of the county formed by the Atlantic
and Northern Seas, and in its general features, like
other Highland districts, is exceedingly wild, rugged,
and mountainous, in some parts highly romantic, and
interesting to the tourist. Its outline is altogether irre-
gular, being indented by numerous fissures and arms of
the sea, and it is naturally formed into three parts,
namely, the Scourie division, between Loch Glendhu and
Loch Laxford ; Ceathramh-garbh, between Loch Lax-
ford and Loch Inchard ; and Ashare. The derivation
of the first of these three names is unknown ; the second
signifies "a rough section of country," and the third
"arable land." The principal mountains are, Beinne-
Leothaid, Beinne-Stac, Beinne-Stroim, Arkle, and the
south-west range of the Reay forest to the summit of
Toinne-Beinne, Meal-Horn, Sabhal-mhoir, and Mille-
Rinidh, with part of Beinne-Shith : several of these rise
3000 feet above the level of the sea. The Reay forest,
or Diru-moir, which claims particular notice, has always
been reckoned one of the principal forests in Scotland.
Considerable tracts of it had been allotted for sheep at
the commencement of the present century, but upon
the expiration of the leases, the proprietor restored the
whole to its ancient character of a deer forest, and the
extent of land set apart for this purpose is estimated at
60,000 acres, of which half is in this parish, and half
in Durness. Thousands of red-deer roam in this terri-
tory, under the management of regularly appointed
foresters ; almost every description of game visits the
parish, and the black eagle occupies the highest rocks.
The harbours are numerous and excellent, and are said
to be so large as to be capable of affording safe anchor-
age to the whole naval and mercantile shipping of Great
Britain ; those most celebrated are, Lochs Laxford,
Inchard, Badcall, Calva, Glendhu, and the Sound of
Handa. Besides the island of Handa, there is a cluster
of isles consisting of about twenty, lying between Ed-
drachillis and Assynt, which are uninhabited, but afford
good pasturage for lambs and cattle. The most remark-
able inland lakes are Loch Moir and Loch Stac, which
are well stocked with different kinds of trout ; the most
considerable rivers are the Laxford and Inchard, which,
with numerous minor streams, discharge themselves
into the Atlantic Ocean. The different districts of the
parish are well supplied with water, principally from
perennial springs.
Though the principal occupation, besides fishing, is
the rearing and pasturing of sheep, yet some part of
EDEN
EDI N
the land is under tillage. The soil is generally a mix-
ture of gravel and moss, considerably improved by the
application of sea-weed for manure ; the lands of Ashare
are superior to the rest, and consist, like the island
of Handa, of dark loam mixed with sand. The crops
raised are, potatoes, bear, and oats, the ground for
which is prepared by the common garden spade and
the Highland implement called the cas-chrom. The
sheep on the large farms are the pure Cheviots ; those
of the smaller tenants are a cross between the Cheviot
and the native black-faced : the cattle are of an inferor
kind. The rateable annual value of the parish is £3027.
The rocks comprise gneiss, hornblende, veins of granite,
and quartz ; limestone, also, is met with on the sides of
some of the lochs. The island of Handa is composed
chiefly of the best sort of red sandstone, and its rocks
lie horizontally, and are considered by geologists as
possessing an almost equal interest, though of another
kind, with the celebrated basaltic columns in the island
of Staffa.
The people are principally located on the sea-coast,
in townships or hamlets, each family possessing a
certain portion of land; and their occupation consists
partly of tilling the ground and partly of fishing, the
latter comprehending the herring, salmon, white, and
lobster fisheries. Those who have commodious boats
go for herrings to the Caithness coast, but large quan-
tities are taken at home in the lochs, especially in Loch
Glendhu. The salmon-fishing is good, and of the
swarms of almost every description of white-fish on
these shores very considerable numbers are taken ; all
kinds of shell-fish are abundant, and lobsters are con-
veyed from this place in smacks, by a London company,
to the market at Billingsgate. Whales, porpoises, and
seals, likewise frequent the coast ; but the first of these
are never captured. The chief approach to the parish
from the south is through a part of Assynt to the kyle
of Scow, where is a ferry 380 yards broad ; and there
is a post-office at Scourie, which communicates twice
a week with Golspie. A line of road thirty-two miles
in extent runs through the parish ; and three inns have
been erected in it, solely at the expense of the Duke of
Sutherland, by whose liberality and exertions the whole
aspect of the district has been entirely changed. The
ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of
Tongue and synod of Sutherland and Caithness ; patron,
the Crown. The stipend is £15S, of which £103 are
paid by the exchequer, with a glebe valued at £20 per
annum, and there is a manse at Badcall, recently erected.
The church is a plain edifice, built upwards of a century
ago, and thoroughly repaired about seven years since ;
it is a commodious edifice in very excellent condition,
and contains 2/5 sittings. There is also a good church
at Keanlochbervie, to which a quoad sacra district was
annexed by act of parliament in the 5th of George IV.
The members of the Free Church have a place of wor-
ship. There is a parochial school at Scourie, of which
the master has the maximum salary, a house, and
allowance for a garden; a school was erected and en-
dowed for the Keanlochbervie district in 1S45, and
another is supported at Ashare by the Society for Pro-
pagating Christian Knowledge.
EDENTON, a village, in the parish of Collessie,
district of Cupar, county of Fife ; containing 45 inha-
bitants.
Vol. I. — 361
Seal and Arms.
EDINBURGH, a
city, the seat of a university,
and the metropolis of the
kingdom of Scotland, situ-
ated in longitude 3° 10' 30"
(W.), and latitude 55° 57' 29"
(N.), about a mile (S. by W.)
from Leith, 40 miles (S. S.W.)
from Dundee, 42 (E. by N.)
from Glasgow, 44 (S. by E.)
from Perth, 55 (W. by N.)
from Berwick-upon-Tweed,
92i (N. by W.) from Car-
lisle, 109 (S. W. by S.) from Aberdeen, 156 (S. by E.)
from Inverness, 270 (N. E.) from Dublin, and 392
(N. N. W.) from London ; containing 56,330, and, in-
cluding the suburban parishes of St. Cuthbert and
Canongate, 13S,1S2, inhabitants. The following is a
list of the subjects comprised in the article, with the
page in which each head or division occurs : —
Early History
Events of the 14th Century
Of the 15th
And of the lGth
Era of the Reformation ..
Occurrences connected with
Mary, Queen of Scots . ,
And with James VI
Events of the 17th Century.
Proceedings of the Cove-
nanters
The Parliamentary War . . .
Era of the Revolution ....
Important Events of the
18th Century
Efforts of the Pretender in
1715
And in 1745
Events of the 19th Century
Royal Visits
361
tional Monument; Monu-
362
ments to Playfair, Stew-
362
art, Burns, and Scott ....
377
362
Lighting, &c. Railways
363
378
364
Municipal Affairs; County
365
379
366
History, Government, Build-
ings, of the University
381
366
New College, High School,
367
382
368
Ecclesiastical arrange-
ments, and Places of Wor-
368
ship: High Church Parish
Old Church, Tolbooth, Tri-
383
369
nity College, New North,
369
384
370
The Old Grey Friars', New
371
Grey Friars', St.Andrew's,
St. George's, Lady Yes-
ter's, St. Mary's, and St.
371
Stephen's Parishes ....
Canongate, St. Cuthbert's,
384
372
Greenside, and St. John's
Former Quoad Sacra Pa-
385
373
386
374
Hospitals and other Chari-
table Institutions ; He-
386
George Watson's, John Wat-
375
son's, Merchants' Maiden,
and Trades' Maiden Hos-
387
376
Oiphan, Gillespie's, Donald-
son's, and Trinity Hospi-
376
388
377
The Royal Infirmary, Pub-
lic Dispensary, Lunatic
Asylum, Asylum for the
Blind, and Institution for
377
Fettes' Endowment, Chal-
mers' Hospital, and Mis-
388
cellaneous Charities ....
389
389
General Description of the
City
Its Extension at various
Periods
Notice of the Castle : the
Regalia
Of Holyrood Abbey and
Palace
Of the Parliament-House,
and the Libraries of the
Advocatesand the Writers
to the Signet
Of the College of Physicians,
that of Surgeons, and the
Medical Society ......
Oftlie Royal Exchange, and
the Bank of Scotland.. ..
The Register Office
Royal Institution and other
Literary and Scientific
Institutions ; Assembly
Rooms; Theatre
Monuments to Nelson, David
Hume, Lord Melville, the
Earl of Hopetoun, George
IV., and Pitt; the Na-
Historical Account.
This city takes its name, in ancient records Dun Edin,
signifying "the hill of Edin, or Edwin," from its castle,
either founded or rebuilt by Edwin, King of North-
3 A
E D I N
ED IN
umbria, who, having greatly increased his power and
extended his dominions, erected, in 626, a strong for-
tress for the protection of his newly-acquired territories
from the frequent incursions of the Scots and Picts.
The original fortress is supposed to have existed prior
to the year 452, at which time it was captured by the
Saxons, and Edinburgh remained in their possession
till 685, when it was recovered by the Scots ; but it was
soon afterwards again taken by the Saxons, and con-
tinued to form part of the kingdom of Nortkumbria
until 936. In that year it was granted, together with
all the lands reaching to the Firth of Forth, by Athel-
stan to his sister on her marriage with Sictrich of
Sihtric ; but about 956 it was ultimately regained by
the Scots, since which it has been included in their
kingdom. The very tardy increase of the town, which
did not attain to any considerable importance prior to
the 14th century, is attributed to its situation on the
south side of the Firth, and its consequent exposure to
the depredations of the English, by whom, in their hos-
tile incursions, it was often pillaged and burnt. From
the frequency of these devastations, moreover, not only
was the progress of the town, which, from its castle,
was called '■' Edwin's burgh," materially retarded, but
the public records were destroyed ; and the city archives
throw light on no transactions of any authenticity
prior to the year 1329, when Robert I. granted the in-
habitants a charter. Indeed, even from that period
till the year 1581 there occur only a few unconnected
and unimportant events. It is not known by which
of the Scottish monarchs Edinburgh was first consti-
tuted a royal burgh ; but that it was such in the reign
of David I. is evident from reference made to it in
charters granted by him to other towns, and which
have been preserved ; and it is more than probable that
the lands called the Borough-Moor and Borough-Myre
were bestowed by that sovereign, in his charter to the
city, now lost. In 1385, John, Earl of Carrick, son of
Robert II., and lord high steward of Scotland, conferred
upon the inhabitants, by charter of the 4th of July,
power to erect houses in the precincts of the castle,
with the privilege of free ingress and egress to their
servants ; and in 13SS, Robert II., by charter of the
15th of July, gave them a tract of land on the north
side of the Market-street, for the improvement of the
town.
In 1437, Walter, Earl of Atholl, his grandson Robert,
and kinsman Robert Graham, were publicly executed in
Edinburgh for the murder of James I. in the monastery
of the Black Friars at Perth. In 1447, James II.,
by charter dated the 4th of November, allowed the
citizens the liberty of holding an annual fair on the
festival of the Holy Trinity. In 1461, Henry VI. of
England, with his queeu Margaret and his son Edward,
Prince of Wales, after the defeat of his army at the
battle of Towton, fled for refuge into Scotland, and was
hospitably entertained in the castle of Edinburgh. The
honourable reception he received from the citizens in-
duced him, on his return to the south, to issue letters-
patent granting to the citizens of Edinburgh full per-
mission to trade with England, paying no more duties
on merchandise than his own subjects ; but his sub-
sequent exclusion from the throne rendered this privi-
lege unavailing. In 1477, James III. gave the citizens
a charter enabling them to appropriate certain parts of
362
the town for holding the markets, which previously
had not been fixed to any precise spot, or limited to
any particular days. In 1481, this monarch having
excited the dissatisfaction of his brother, Alexander,
Duke of Albany, and others of the nobility, by his
inauspicious entertainment of favourites, they entered
into a confederacy for the removal of those persons by
whom he was influenced to the prejudice of the
country ; and the king, being intimidated by these pro-
ceedings, took refuge in the castle of Edinburgh, in
which he was detained a prisoner for nearly nine months,
while the confederates were appointed regents of the
kingdom. But the Duke of Albany, discontented with
the conduct of the other regents, and yielding to the
importunities of the queen for the liberation of her
husband, appointed a meeting of certain of his friends
at Edinburgh, who, assisted by a body of the citizens,
assaulted the castle, and restored the king to liberty.
James, thus replaced in the government, in testimony
of the loyalty of the citizens, bestowed upon them two
charters in 1482, conferring many valuable privileges,
among which was the appointment of sheriffs having
power to hold courts for the trial of criminals, with
fines and escheats belonging to their office. The inhabit-
ants were also invested with liberty to make laws for
the due government of the city, were exempted from pay-
ment of the duties on salt, and received a grant of
customs and dues on the several articles of merchandise
in their port of Leith ; and as a perpetual memorial
of their loyalty and services, the king removed the seat
of government and the royal residence, previously at
Perth, to the city of Edinburgh, which he thus made
the metropolis of his kingdom. Among other marks
of his favour bestowed upon the citizens at this time,
was the gift of a standard or banner, to which the
craftsmen, not only of Edinburgh, but of all other cities
within the realm, were bound to repair for the assist-
ance of the magistrates in defence of their king and of
their own rights ; this flag is still preserved by the
convener of the trades, and on its being displayed in
times of emergency, all the artizans of the city and sur-
rounding districts are compelled to assemble, and place
themselves at his disposal.
Events of the Sixteenth Century.
In 150S, James IV. granted the citizens a charter
enabling them to let the common lands designated the
Borough-Moor, and the marsh called the Commou-Myre,
at fee-farm rents. The citizens, on this, immediately
proceeded to clear the grounds, and cut down the trees
with which they were thickly covered ; and having in
this manner procured a vast quantity of timber, the
town council, for promoting the sale of it, allowed to all
purchasers of a sufficient quantity to new-front their
houses the privilege of extending them seven feet into
the High-street beyond their former boundaries, on
each side. Thus not only was the principal street re-
duced fourteen feet in width, but the houses previously
fronted with stone were now entirely constructed of
wood, to the great prejudice of the general appearance
of the city. In 1513, James, being by the intrigues of
France led into a war with England, in opposition to
the counsel of his nobles, mustered an army on the
Borough-Moor, where being joined by the citizens under
ED I N
ED I N
their provost, the Earl of Angus, lie marched into
England, and was defeated in the disastrous battle of
Flodden-Field, in which the king and most of the
Scottish nobility were slain. The royal bod5r, being
found after the battle, was carried to Berwick-on-Tweed,
embalmed, and sent to London inclosed in lead, and
was thence conveyed to the monastery of Sheen, at
Richmond, for interment.
On the news of this calamitous defeat, the town
council of Edinburgh issued a proclamation enjoining
all the citizens capable of bearing arms to assemble
at the cross, and join the lord provost for the defence of
the town against any attempts of the victorious enemy ;
a guard was raised, £500 were voted for purchasing
arms and ammunition, and such of the inhabitants as
had gardens attached to their houses were required, for
greater security, to fortify them by the erection of walls.
The consternation of the people was aggravated by the
prevalence of the plague, which was making dreadful
havoc among them. The council, in consideration of
the arduous duties devolving upon the provost during
this period of war and pestilence, ordered one hundred
merks to be added to his annual income; and to pre-
vent the further ravages of the plague, they directed
that all the houses on the Borough-Moor, at that time
crowded with infected persons, should be unroofed, and
the walls taken down. In 1524, Francis Bothwell,
lord provost of Edinburgh, having resigned that office
according to the king's command, obtained permission
to enter a protest that his resignation should in no wise
be drawn into a precedent derogatory or prejudicial to
the rights and privileges of the corporation. In 1544,
Eenry VIII. of England, disappointed in his efforts to
negotiate a marriage between his son, Prince Edward,
and the Princess Mary, daughter of James V., sent an
arm j' into Scotland under the Earl of Hertford in order
to compel the Scots to the proposed alliance ; and the
English forces, having landed at Leith, and taken pos-
session of that town unopposed, advanced to Edinburgh,
which they pillaged an«l set fire to, without attempting
to reduce the castle. The earl returned with his army
to Leith, burnt the place, and afterwards retreated into
England ; but again entering Scotland, with a more
numerous army, in 1547, to force the Scots to acquiesce
in the projected union, achieved a victory over the
Scottish forces at the battle of Pinkie, and again plun-
dered Edinburgh.
Era of the Reformation.
At the commencement of the Reformation in Scot-
land, in 1556, the citizens destroyed the statues of the
Virgin Mary and other saints in the church of St.
Giles, which produced a mandate from the queen dow-
ager, regent of the kingdom, to the lord provost and
council to discover the offenders, and deliver them to
the Archbishop of St. Andrew's, to be dealt with accord-
ing to the statutes of the Church. The citizens, under
apprehension of an invasion from England, in 155S,
displayed the utmost zeal in support of the government.
The merchants raised a body of 700 men, well armed
and accoutred, and the craftsmen of the various incorpo-
rations, at a meeting in the Tolbooth, resolved to fur-
nish an equal number for the defence of the city ; the
town council, also, voted considerable supplies for the
363
assistance of the queen. On the celebration of the fes-
tival of St. Giles, the tutelar patron of Edinburgh, ac-
cording to custom, the popish priests and monks, in
order to prevent any obstruction from the friends of the
Reformation, requested the presence of the queen regent
at the procession ; but, on repairing to the church to
place the statue of the saintjon the carriage prepared
for its reception, they had the mortification to find that
it had been removed during the preceding night. To
obviate the failure of their purpose, however, a smaller
image of the saint was borrowed from the church of the
Grey Friars ; but, the queen retiring from the ceremony
before the procession had concluded, the populace seized
the statue, which they demolished in their rage, and the
attendants betook themselves to flight, though, by the
prudent conduct of the magistrates, no further excesses
took place.
In 1559, the people of Perth having destroyed many
of the monasteries in that town and neighbourhood, the
queen regent, fearful of similar outrages in Edinburgh,
issued a proclamation to the provost and magistrates
for the preservation of the sacred edifices and religious
houses from violence, to which they paid so much atten-
tion that she addressed to them a letter of thanks for
their diligent observance of her mandate. To prevent
any attempts of the populace, the magistrates ordered
all the gates of the city to be closed, writh the exception
of those of the Netherbow and West-port, at which they
placed sufficient guards ; and to obviate all danger from
the lords of congregation, they sent commissioners to
Linlithgow, to negotiate with them for the safety of
the churches and monasteries, promising to reserve the
former for worship according to the Protestant doc-
trines, and the latter for seminaries on the principles of
the Reformation ; and in the interim, they posted a
guard over the church of St. Giles, and removed the
stalls of the choir into the Tolbooth for greater security.
On the 29th of June, the lords of congregation arrived
at Edinburgh, and appointed two commissioners to
attend the council, where it was resolved that, as the
change was still in progress, the citizens should, without
molestation, exercise which form of religion they might
prefer till the 10th of January following. Upon this,
the queen regent sent an order to the council to sum-
mon the citizens, and make a return of their choice
between the two forms of faith ; against such a course
the citizens remonstrated by petition to the lords com-
missioners, and they in answer declared that they would
compel no man to act against the dictates of his con-
science. The queen, assisted by a body of French
troops, now made every effort for the maintenance of
the ancient religion ; and the lords of congregation re-
solved to raise a body of troops for their defence, in
which they were assisted by the council, who raised for
them a considerable force, with which they marched to
Leith, and summoned the garrison to surrender. On
the first show of resistance, however, they fled with
precipitation ; several were slain in the pursuit, and so
great was the panic after their return that they aban-
doned the city ; but, having received a supply of Eng-
lish troops from Queen Elizabeth, and being reinforced
with a body of 400 of the citizens, they again assaulted
the town of Leith, were completely successful in their
object, and compelled the French auxiliaries to quit the
country.
3 A 1
EDIN
EDI N
Occurrences connected with Mary.
Upon the death of the queen regent in 1560, the
lords of congregation became masters of the kingdom ;
and in a treaty between them and the ambassadors of
Francis and Mary, afterwards Queen of Scots, it was
stipulated that a parliament should be held in Edinburgh,
which event took place in the following August : at this
parliament it was enacted that the jurisdiction of the
pope in Scotland should be abolished, and the confession
of faith drawn up by the General Assembly established.
The result of this meeting excited the strongest feelings
of indignation in the mind of Mary, who refused to ratify
the proceedings, and on the 19th of August, 1561,
arrived at Leith from France to take possession of the
throne- On the 1st of September she made her public
entry into Edinburgh, and was received with the most
enthusiastic acclamations of the citizens, who testified
their loyalty and attachment by every demonstration of
joy, but on the Sunday after her arrival, the populace
raised a tumult, and were with difficulty restrained by
the magistrates from interrupting the performance of
divine service at the chapel of Holyrood House, and offer-
ing violence to the priest, who was officiating according
to the Romish ritual. The magistrates issued a procla-
mation against papists, and the queen addressed to
them a letter complaining of the insult thus offered to
her religion ; but this produced on their part only a re-
publication of the edict in severer terms, enjoining all
Roman Catholics to leave the town under heavy penal-
ties, which so exasperated the queen that she issued a
mandate to the lord provost and council to divest the
magistrates of their office, and elect others in their place,
with which the council complied.
The marriage of the queen with Lord Darnley, who
had the day previously been proclaimed king at the mar-
ket-cross, was solemnized in the chapel of the palace of
Holyrood House on the 27th of July, 1565, and in the
following year the queen was delivered of a son, after-
wards James VI. of Scotland, who, on the demise of
Elizabeth, succeeded to the crown of England by the
title of James I. The assassination of David Rizzio,
secretary to the queen, which had taken place in the
palace not long before this event, under the personal
superintendence of Lord Darnley, had tended greatly to
alienate the affections of the queen ; and the earl soon
after left the court, and retired to Glasgow. Labouring
under severe indisposition, however, he was here visited
by the queen, who tended him during his illness, and
brought him back with her to Edinburgh ; and that he
might not be disturbed by the inevitable tumult of the
palace, she fitted up a house for his reception at a place
in the vicinity, called the Kirk of Field, where for several
nights she slept in an apartment underneath his cham-
ber. On the 9th of February, the queen, having to
preside at the marriage of one of her household, passed
the night in the palace ; and about two o'clock on the
following morning, the house in which Lord Darnley lay
was blown up by gunpowder, and his body was found
at some distance in an adjoining field, without any appa-
rent marks of contusion or violence. The Earl of Both-
well, who was strongly suspected of the murder of
Darnley, was publicly charged with that crime by the
Earl of Lennox, who wrote to the queen imploring
364
speedy justice on the murderer of his son ; but, in a court
soon afterwards held, he was acquitted. On the return
of the queen from Stirling, where she had been visiting
her infant son, she was waylaid by Bothwell at the
head of a body of 800 horse, and forcibly conveyed to
Dunbar, where she was detained for some time by the
earl, who, however, subsequently obtained a pardon
for this act of violence and for all other crimes, and,
having procured a divorce from his wife, sister of the
Earl of Huntly, was married to the queen, in Holyrood
House, on the 15th of May.
This fatal alliance excited the indignation of the prin-
cipal nobility, who formed an association for the protec-
tion of the prince, and the punishment of his father's
murderers ; Bothwell and the queen, alarmed at this in-
surrection, fled from Holyrood, and took refuge in the
castle of Borthwick, on the investment of which by
Lord Hume they effected their escape to Dunbar. The
confederate lords, with a force of 3000 men, took pos-
session of Edinburgh ; and Bothwell hearing that they
had sustained some disasters, quitted the fortress of
Dunbar, and advanced to encounter them in the field.
The armies met at Carberry Hill, about six miles from
the city ; but Mary, mistrusting the fidelity of her own
troops, whom she knew to be unfavourable to her cause,
and having no other resource, held a conference with
Kirkaldy, and, on receiving some general promises of
protection, placed herself in the hands of the confede-
rates, by whom she was conducted to Edinburgh amidst
the insults of the populace. Bothwell, during the
queen's conference with Kirkaldy, fled unattended to
Dunbar, and fitting out a few small vessels, sailed for
the Orkneys, where for a time he subsisted by piracy ;
but, being pursued by Kirkaldy, he effected his escape
in an open boat, and obtained a passage to Denmark,
where he was thrown into prison, and died miserably
about ten years after. Several of his servants were
made prisoners, and, having revealed all the circum-
stances of the murder of Darnley, were punished for the
crime. The queen was detainee} as a prisoner in the
house of the lord provost, and subjected to every
reproach from the populace, who displayed, on her ap-
pearance at the window, a banner bearing the effigy of
her murdered husband, with that of the infant prince by
his side, and the legend " Judge, and revenge my cause,
O Lord." But, the queen appealing to the compassion
of the citizens, it is said they unfurled the standard
given to them by James III., and, raising a sufficient
force, compelled her persecutors to restore her to the
palace of Holyrood, from which, however, she was on the
following day conveyed to the castle of Lochleven. A
council of regency was now appointed, and a deputation
waited upon the captive queen in the castle, requiring
her to sign an abdication in favour of the infant prince,
who was proclaimed king, and soon after crowned at
Stirling, the Earl of Morton taking the coronation oath
in his name: she also agreed to make the Earl of Murray
regent, and to nominate a council to administer the
government till he should arrive from the continent.
The Earl of Murray, who had been thus appointed
regent, shortly returned from France, and paid a visit
to the queen at Lochleven. He obtained possession of
the castle of Edinburgh, at that time held by a partisan
of Bothwell's, and of which he created Sir William
Kirkaldy governor ; but Sir William, in 15"0, finding
E D I N
EDI N
to what severities the queen was subjected, embraced
her cause, and the city, alternately held by both parties,
became for some time the scene of confusion and civil
war. The lords of the regency applied for assistance to
Elizabeth of England, and that queen sent to their
assistance 1000 infantry and 300 cavalry, under the
command of Sir William Drury, who, on his arrival at
Leith, where the Scottish army was encamped, sum-
moned the governor to surrender the castle of Edin-
burgh ; but a party who had been driven from the city,
assembling in a hostile manner, put an end to the
treaty, and the war was carried on with the most fero-
cious barbarity. To prevent the city being taken by
surprise, a strong barrier was erected by the queen's
troops at the Netherbow, and every precaution was
adopted for its security ; the war continued to rage
with inveterate fury, and such was the rancour, that
those who were made prisoners, on either side, were
led to immediate execution. A truce was at length pro-
posed and. agreed upon by the leaders ; but Kirkaldy
refusing to concur, Sir William Drury, who had re-
treated into England, returned with a more formidable
force, and ultimately compelled the castle to surrender.
During this period the city suffered greatly, being ex-
posed on the one hand to the destructive firing from the
battery of the castle, and on the other to the devasta-
tions of the contending parties.
Occurrences connected with James VI.
On the conclusion of the war, the Earl of Morton
was established in the regency ; but, becoming odious
from the unpopularity of his conduct, he resigned the
office to the young king, James VI., and the castle,
which for some time held out under his brother, ulti-
mately capitulated. Morton, however, afterwards re-
suming his authority, repaired to Stirling, and ob-
tained the government of the castle there, and the
custody of the royal person. On this, the citizens of
Edinburgh, anxious for the king's safety, raised an
armed force, and drew out the trained bands, for the
service of the privy council ; James applied to the
council of Edinburgh for a guard of 100 men to protect
his person, and for some troops to convey the Earl of
Morton to the castle of Dunbar, and they not only com-
plied with this, but also gave an additional 100 men
to guard the palace of- Holyrood House. The king
held a parliament at Edinburgh in 1579 ; and on his
removal subsequently from Stirling, the citizens re-
ceived him with joyful acclamations, and escorted him
to Holyrood with a guard of 2000 horsemen, after which
he convened a parliament in the Tolbooth : the Earl
of Morton, late regent, was accused of being privy to
the murder of Lord Darnley, and on being brought to
trial in ] 580, he was found guilty, and put to death.
In 1587, the king, with a view to reconcile the nobles
of the realm, whom civil war had rent into adverse
factions, gave a royal banquet at Holyrood House,
whence he conducted his hostile guests to the cross,
where they were entertained by the magistrates of the
city, and pledged each other in goblets of wine.
The magistrates, on the approach of the Spanish
armada towards the coast, armed the citizens to prevent
the lauding of its troops, and raised a body of 300
men for the defence of Edinburgh ; and just before the
365
marriage of James with the Princess Anne of Denmark,
they fitted out a well-equipped vessel to Denmark, to
bring home the king and his royal bride, on whose
arrival at Leith they escorted the princess to her palace,
and afterwards to the church of St. Giles, and, on the
solemnization of her marriage, presented her with a very
valuable jewel. In 1591, Stuart, Earl of Both well, made
an attempt to seize the person of the king ; but his
design was frustrated by the vigilance and loyalty of
the magistrates, and the earl and eight of his con-
federates were publicly executed. On the birth of the
prince Henry, the citizens sent to the king, at Stirling,
a gift of ten tuns of wine, and a deputation of 100 of
the chief inhabitants to assist at the baptism. An at-
tempt of James in 1596 to controul the language of the
pulpits exasperated both the clergy and the citizens ;
a tumult arose, in which the person of the king was
insulted ; and on his subsequent introduction of thea-
trical performances, a meeting of the presbytery was
convened, and a decree passed against the toleration of
them, which, however, on the presbytery being called
before the privy council, they were compelled to retract.
On the return of the popish lords who had been
pardoned by the crown, the clergy held a convocation
of their most influential ministers at Edinburgh, to
which they gave the title of standing council of
the church ; and being cited before the privy council
of the state for a contemptuous disregard of the royal
authority, the minister of St. Andrew's disavowed all
allegiance to the government, and called upon the
people to support the clergy in their opposition. The
king issued a proclamation enjoining the new council
to leave Edinburgh within twenty-four hours ; but they
refused to obey it, and in their sermons and prayers
invited the nobles of the land to countenance their re-
sistance to the royal decree. They drew up a petition,
couched in the most opprobrious language, which the
king declined to receive ; and the populace rushed in a
body to assault the Tolbooth, in which the king, the
judges, and the chief officers of state were assembled.
This attempt, however, was frustrated by the loyalty
and firmness of one of the deacons, who, attended by
his corporation, intercepted their purpose ; and the
mob, in some degree appeased by the assurances of the
lord provost that the king would accept, any petition
respectfully worded, and peaceably presented, at length
dispersed, and James returned unmolested to the palace.
On the following day, the king and the privy council
left for Linlithgow, and a proclamation was published
stating that, in consequence of the late treasonable out-
rage, in which many citizens, instigated by the ministers,
had taken part, the crown deemed the city of Edin-
burgh no longer worthy to be the seat of government,
to be unfit for the residence of the court, and for the
administration of justice. The state therefore required
the College of Justice, the inferior judges, and the barons
to retire from Edinburgh, and not to return without
the king's special licence. The citizens would gladly
have conciliated the royal favour, but the ministers
were resolved to persevere ; they proclaimed a fast, and
assailed the king from their pulpits with the most
virulent reproaches, declaring that the people might
lawfully take the sword out of his hands ; they also
addressed a letter to Lord Hamilton, intreating him to
repair to Edinburgh, place himself at their head, and
ED I N
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be the leader of those who had armed themselves in
support of the Church. Hamilton, however, instead of
complying with their request, showed the letter to the
king, who issued his mandate to the magistrates of
Edinburgh, for the seizure and incarceration of the
ministers, but, having intimation of the intended pro-
ceedings, they contrived to effect their escape.
A deputation of the citizens now waited upon James
at Linlithgow, to endeavour to appease his resentment,
but in vain. The king went the following day to Leith,
and thence to Edinburgh, the keys of which were ten-
dered to him by one of his officers of state, and the
charge of the city was committed to the Earl of Mar
and the Lords Seaton and Ochiltree; the citizens were
ordered to keep within their houses ; the streets were
lined with files of the royal guards, between which the
king passed to the Tolbooth, and a convention of the
states was held. Before this assembly the magistrates
of the city humbled themselves with submissive rever-
ence ; they made the most solemn protestations of
loyalty, and oifered a guarantee that none of the
ministers should be permitted to resume their charges,
nor any others be admitted to the pastoral office with-
out the royal approbation. They also proposed to
present to the king, and to the lords of the council, a
list of all the officers of the corporation for their ap-
proval before they were appointed, and gave every
assurance of their freedom from any participation in
the tumult, and of their resolution to discover and bring
to justice its authors and abettors. But all these
proffers were vain ; the convention of the states pro-
nounced the insurrection to be high-treason, and that
the city should be subjected to all the penalties ; it was
even proposed that the place should be rased to its
foundations, and that a pillar should be erected on the
site as a lasting monument of its disgrace. The inter-
position of Elizabeth obtained from the king a mitiga-
tion of the sentence, but the town council were notwith-
standing ordered, as representatives of the city, to enter
themselves in ward in the town of Perth ; the trial
commenced on the 1st of March, when, one of the coun-
cil neglecting to appear, the cause was decided, the
community declared rebels, and their revenues escheated
to the crown. Edinburgh continued for some time in
a state of anarchy, but at length the citizens submitted
themselves entirely to the king's mercy, and on the
supplication of the magistrates and council, they were
to a certain extent relieved from the forfeiture, and
restored to their wonted privileges. In 1599, the con-
vention of the states assembled at Edinburgh on the
10th of December, and ordained that the first day of
the year, which had previously been reckoned the 25th
of March, should be thenceforth the 1st of January.
Events of the Seventeenth Century.
In 1603, James VI., being on the death of Elizabeth
successor to the crown of England, took leave of the
citizens in the church of St. Giles, and, addressing them
after the sermon, assured them of his future remem-
brance and protection ; and on the 5th of April he
departed for London, whither he was followed on the
1st June by the queen and royal family. In 1609, he
granted to the town council of Edinburgh a duty of
£4 Scotch on every tun of wine sold within the city,
366
and ordered that a sword should be borne before the
lord provost, and that the magistrates should in public
wear gowns of state. The king, who on his departure
had promised to visit his native dominions every three
years, found no opportunity of doing so till the year
1617, when, on the 16th of May, he arrived at Edin-
burgh, and was received with every demonstration of
joyful welcome by the provost and magistrates, who
entertained him with a sumptuous banquet, and pre-
sented him with 10,000 merks in a silver basin. After the
death of this monarch, his son and successor, Charles,
paid a visit to Edinburgh on the 16th of May, 1633, for
the purpose of being crowned King of Scotland, which
ceremony was performed in the abbey church of Holy-
rood with unusual splendour. In two days afterwards,
the king convened his first parliament in the Tolbooth,
and confirmed the authority of the College of Justice,
the privileges of the royal burghs, and the rights of the
citizens ; and on the ISth of July he left the city on his
return to England, halting for a night at Dalkeith, Sea-
ton, and Innerwick, on his route. Charles was accom-
panied in this visit by Archbishop Laud, who was sworn
a privy councillor of Scotland at Holyrood House, and
preached several times in the chapel royal ; and while
here the king erected the bishopric of Edinburgh.
During the time that he was in Scotland, the people
testified the most loyal attachment to their sovereign ;
but great discontents broke out soon after his depar-
ture, and the subsequent introduction of the English
liturgy into the Church of Scotland, in 1637, exaspe-
rated these discontents into open rebellion. On the
attempt to read the liturgy in St. Giles' church, the
utmost confusion was excited ; missiles were thrown at
the head of the dean while performing the service,
and at Dr. Lindsay, Bishop of Edinburgh, who had
ascended the pulpit in the hope of appeasing the tumul-
tuous uproar ; a mob collected in the streets, and hurled
stones at the bishop while proceeding home in his car-
riage with the lord privy seal, and the Earl of Traquair
and the Bishop of Galloway escaped with difficulty from
the populace. The national covenant was subscribed
by great numbers of the nobility and gentry, and
by the inhabitants generally in the Grey Friars ; and
copies of it were circulated extensively throughout the
country. The king, alarmed at these proceedings,
commissioned the Marquess of Hamilton to negotiate
with the Scots, many of whom were already in arms
for the support of the covenant ; and when the mar-
quess arrived in Scotland he found it in a state of rebel-
lion. The town council of Edinburgh took part with
the Covenanters, and raised a body of 500 men as a
reinforcement of their army, commanded by General
Leslie, who assaulted the castle, at that time garri-
soned by a body of troops under General Ruthven, and
which ultimately surrendered to the Covenanters. The
forces under Leslie afterwards made themselves masters
of Dalkeith House, in which were considerable supplies
of military stores ; and, removing these into the castle,
they erected some fortifications at Leith, sent emissaries
to England to enlist the nonconformists in their cause,
also applied to Cardinal Richelieu for immediate aid,
and levied large contributions, by loan, for carrying on
the war. Charles sent the Duke of Hamilton with a
fleet of twenty ships and 5000 land forces, to reduce
Edinburgh and Leith to obedience; but on the arrival
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of this force in the Firth of Forth, a treaty took place,
according to the terms of which, the castle and other
garrisons, being delivered to Hamilton, the troops were
withdrawn.
In 1641, the king made a second visit to Edinburgh,
where he assembled a parliament, in which a great num-
ber of the nobility were excluded from their privilege
of voting, because they refused to subscribe the cove-
nant. The Earl of Argyll, the head of the Covenanters,
was created a marquess ; Leslie, who had commanded
the covenanting army, was made Earl of Leven, and
appointed governor of the castle, and all the tried and
faithful friends of the king were neglected, or super-
seded in their offices by the most inveterate of his
enemies, in the hope of conciliation, though the Cove-
nanters, notwithstanding all these concessions, still
remained in arms, and added daily to the number of
their troops. Charles left Edinburgh on the 16th of
November, and soon after his return to England, which
he found embroiled in civil war, gained some advan-
tages over the parliamentarian leaders, who, in 1643,
applied to the Scots for assistance ; the Scottish par-
liament voted a supply of 1S,000 foot, 2000 horse, and
1000 dragoons, and the magistrates, notwithstanding
they had received a letter from the king reminding
them of his former favours, raised a regiment of 1200
foot for the service of his enemies. After the defeat of
the parliamentarian army in 1645 by the Marquess of
Montrose, the city was in great danger ; the plague
was raging within its walls, and so much had its popu-
lation been reduced by the ravages of war and pesti-
lence, that, in case of assault, scarcely a hundred men
could have been mustered in its defence. Montrose,
having defeated the army of the Covenanters at Kilsyth,
addressed a letter to the magistrates requiring them to
liberate such of the royalists as they held prisoners.
With this, in their present situation, they thought it
prudent to comply ; but the king having at that time
arrived at Newcastle-upon-Tyne with the Scottish army,
to whose protection he had resigned himself, a treaty
was opened with the English parliament, to which the
citizens of Edinburgh sent a deputation, and Charles
was eventually given up to the English commissioners,
in 1647.
From 1650 to 1700.
The Marquess of Montrose, who, after the execution
of the King in 1649, had been appointed by Charles II.
his captain-general in Scotland, landed in 1650, with a
force of 500 foreigners, chiefly Germans, hoping to
obtain from the Covenanters more reasonable terms for
restoring the king to the throne ; but, being defeated
by Gen. David Leslie, he assumed the disguise of a
peasant, and, intrusting his person to the protection of
a perfidious friend, was betrayed to his enemies, and
conveyed to Edinburgh amidst the most degrading and
opprobrious insults. He was afterwards sent in cus-
tody to London, where the parliament was then sitting,
and, being brought to trial, was condemned to be con-
veyed to Edinburgh, where, on the day after his arri-
val, he was publicly executed with every demonstration
of wanton barbarity, in pursuance of his sentence. The
English parliament, fearing an accommodation between
Charles II., who had for that purpose landed from
36~
Holland, and the Scottish commissioners, who were
then treating with him for his restoration, now sent
Cromwell with an army of 16,000 men into Scotland,
in order to check the negotiation. Cromwell encamped
his troops on the Pentland hills, within a few miles of
Edinburgh ; the Scots, commanded by Leslie, were
drawn up at Corstorphine. After some skirmishing,
Cromwell withdrew to Dunbar, where in a little time he
was so straitened for want of provisions that he pur-
posed sending his infantry and artillery by sea into Eng-
land, and effecting his retreat by forcing his way, with
his cavalry, through the forces of Leslie, which had
taken post between Dunbar and Berwick. Leslie, how-
ever, being induced to descend into the plain, and give
battle to Cromwell, an engagement took place in which
Leslie's army was totally routed ; and Cromwell, pur-
suing his advantage, took possession of Edinburgh and
Leith, and completed the fortifications which the Scots
had begun and left unfinished. The lord provost and
magistrates, on the news of the defeat, left the city, and
fled to Stirling. The principal inhabitants, however,
chose thirty of their number to preserve the peace, and
to treat with Cromwell ; and upon the arrival of the
English commissioners at Dalkeith, for settling dis-
putes, they sent a deputation, soliciting the restitution
of their magistracy, which was granted, accompanied by
an order to elect two representatives to meet the com-
missioners, and assist in the arrangement of public
affairs.
On the restoration of Charles II., the citizens pre-
sented the king with the sum of £1000 as a testimony
of their loyalty, which he acknowledged by granting
them the privilege of levying one-third of a penny on
every pint of ale, and two-pence on every pint of wine
consumed in the city. But the subsequent efforts of
that monarch to re-establish episcopacy, and introduce
the English liturgy, exasperated their feelings ; and the
suppression of conventicles by military force excited in
their minds the most determined opposition. The west-
ern counties rose in arms, surprised a party of the royal
forces at Dumfries, and marched thence to Edinburgh,
professing allegiance to the crown, but demanding the
re-establishment of the Presbyterian form of worship,
and the restoration of their former ministers. On this
insurrection, the city was put into a state of defence; the
gates were closed ; the magistrates ordered all the citi-
zens who had horses to assemble, and hold themselves
in readiness to act for the preservation of order ; the
College of Justice formed themselves into a company,
and were supplied with arms for the security of the
government. By these means the insurgents were soon
subdued ; about fifty were killed, and 150 taken prison-
ers. But the more vigorous were the measures adopted
for the support of episcopacy, the more the Covenanters
increased ; the preachers openly called upon the people
to throw off their allegiance ; the Archbishop of St.
Andrew's was assassinated in his carriage, and every
prospect of conciliation was hopeless. In this state of
excitement, the magistrates of the city took still further
precautions for its safety ; the trained bands joined the
forces of the crown, and dispatches were forwarded to
London for assistance. The Duke of Monmouth was
sent to Scotland with some troops of cavalry, and was
invested with the chief command ; and a battle took
place at Bothwell-Bridge, in which 700 of the Covenant-
E D I N
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ers were killed, and several were made prisoners and
sent to Edinburgh, where two of the most seditious
preachers were hanged.
James, afterwards James II. of England, and VII. of
Scotland, while Duke of York, visited Edinburgh, where
he was received with great pomp by the lord provost
and town council, who entertained him with a banquet
in the parliament-house. During his residence here he
acquired great popularity ; and on his accession to the
throne, the citizens presented a loyal address, in ac-
knowledgment of which that monarch sent them a
letter, which is still preserved in a box of ebony, of rather
curious workmanship. A parliament was shortly after
held in Edinburgh, which acknowledged his supreme
authority, and declared that the whole force of the
country, from the age of sixteen to sixty, should be at
his disposal ; but the open encouragement given to the
celebration of the mass soon excited a tumult, in the
quelling of which the king's guards were brought from
the castle, and, firing upon the mob, killed two men and
a woman. Several of the most active of the insurgents
were afterwards hanged at the Cross ; and so great was
the zeal for the re-establishment of the Roman Catholic
faith, that a Popish college in the palace of Holyrood
House printed and circulated hand-bills inviting all
persons to send their children to be educated in the
principles of that religion gratuitously.
On the arrival of the intelligence of the lauding of the
Prince of Orange, however, the regular troops were
withdrawn for the reinforcement of the king's army, and
the Presbyterians flocked to Edinburgh in great num-
bers. The greatest severities were exercised against the
Papists, Episcopalians, and the adherents of the exiled
monarch ; the Earl of Perth, who was chancellor, aban-
doned the country, and the government fell entirely
into the hands of the friends of the Revolution. A mob
assembled in the city ; the drums beat to arms, and the
inhabitants proceeded to demolish the royal chapel in
Holyrood House, but were opposed by a party of 100
men, who still adhered to James, and who, by firing
upon them, put the party to flight. They soon returned,
however, in greater numbers, headed by the magistrates,
who had obtained a warrant from the privy council,
and accompanied by the trained bands and herald-at-
arms ; and summoned the followers of James to sur-
render. After having defeated their opponents with
considerable loss, they proceeded to the abbey church
and the royal chapel, which they stripped of all their
ornaments; nearly demolished the college of the Jesuits;
and plundered the houses of many of the Roman Catho-
lics. The town council tendered their services to the
Prince of Orange; and the Marquess of Atholl, who,
after the flight of the chancellor, had assumed the reins
of government, held a convention of the states at Edin-
burgh, and transferred their allegiance to the govern-
ment of William and Mary ; appointed a new election
of the city magistrates and council, by poll of the bur-
gesses, in St. Giles' church ; ejected several ministers
who refused to pray for the new sovereigns, and finally
re-established the Presbyterian form of worship. The
Duke of Hamilton and other friends of the Revolution
quartered several companies of infantry in the city; but
the castle was still retained for James by its governor,
the Duke of Gordon, and the Lords Balcarras and
Dundee also stood firm to the interests of the exiled
368
monarch. The castle, however, being but ill supplied
with provisions, was soon compelled to surrender ; and
the adherents of the Roman Catholic party were confined
in the Tolbooth, where several of them were detained
for two or three years, and subjected to the severest
privations.
In 1695, a company for trading to Africa and the
East Indies was incorporated by act of parliament, with
very considerable privileges ; a capital of £400,000 was
quickly raised, and in the following year six ships of
large burthen sailed from the Firth of Forth. The in-
telligence of their having effected a settlement on the
Isthmus of Darien arrived on the 25th of March, 1699,
and the event was celebrated by public rejoicings, and
by thanksgivings in the several churches of the city;
but the sanguine hopes thus excited were not of long
continuance. The colonists, after one or two fruitless
attempts by the Spaniards, were ultimately driven from
the settlement in 1700; and on the news of this, the
citizens were so much excited by rage and disappoint-
ment that they broke out into the most wanton excesses,
and, imputing their failure to the jealousy of the Eng-
lish merchants, proceeded to such acts of tumult and
outrage that the commissioners and officers of state
found it prudent to retire from the city lest they should
fall victims to the popular fury.
Events of the Eighteenth Century.
On the accession of Queen Anne, the citizens were
still more exasperated by the seizure of one of the ships
belonging to the African Company, which had been
taken in the river Thames ; and upon their solicitation
to the English ministry for its restoration being dis-
regarded, they seized, by way of reprisal, a ship belong-
ing to the English East India Company, which had
anchored in the Forth. Captain Green, the commander,
and part of the crew, were accused of piracy; and being,
upon slight evidence, convicted of having plundered a
Scottish vessel in the Indies, they were sentenced to
be hanged. On the day fixed for their execution, the
populace surrounded the prison, and the parliament-
house, in which the privy council, assisted by the ma-
gistrates, were deliberating about the expediency of
extending the royal mercy to the captain and his men.
The lord chancellor, on his way from the council to his
house, was dragged from his carriage by the populace,
and was only rescued by the timely interposition of his
friends ; and so highly were the people incensed at the
idea of a reprieve, that it was found necessary to execute
the prisoners without delay. On the promulgation of
the articles of the Union of the two kingdoms in 1707,
the mob attacked the parliament-house, insulted the
Duke of Queensberry, the chief commissioner, and gave
vent to the most violent indignation. They beset the
house of the lord provost, Johnston, a friend to the
union, who narrowly escaped their fury ; and so greatly
did the numbers of the mob increase, that, before night,
they made themselves entire masters of the city. Their
first purpose was to blockade the gates, to prevent which
the commissioners ordered a party of soldiers to take
possession of the Netherbow, and afterwards, with the
concurrence of the provost, stationed a battalion of
guards in the Parliament-square. Such, indeed, was
the opposition to the union that all the military of the
EDIN
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surrounding districts were concentrated at Edinburgh,
and three regiments of infantry were constantly on duty
in the city ; but the Articles were at length agreed
upon, and ultimately signed by the contracting parties,
in an obscure cellar under a house in the High-street,
opposite the Tron church, long after occupied as a
tavern and coach-ofiice. The Duke of Queensberry re-
turned, with the document thus reluctantly obtained,
to London ; and several of its chief supporters quitted
the city, deeming it unsafe to remain. The ancient
regalia of the kingdom \vere, on the completion of the
act of union, deposited in the crown-room in the castle,
on the 26th of March, 1*07 ; but it was for a long time
generally supposed that they had been conveyed to
London, and deposited in the Tower ; and this opinion
was the more confirmed by the exhibition of a crown
which the keeper of the jewel-office there invariably de-
scribed as the royal crown of Scotland.
The discontents of the people induced the Pretender
to make an effort to regain the throne, and a French
fleet soon after appeared in the Firth of Forth for the
invasion of Scotland. The Earl of Leven, at that time
commander of the forces, conveyed information of the
event to the provost of Edinburgh, who, with the ma-
gistrates and the several incorporations, manifested their
loyalty to the existing dynasty by raising a body of
1200 men to serve under the earl. But their services
were rendered unnecessary by the vigilance and activity
of Sir George Byng, who, pursuing the fleet, drove them
from the coast, and freed the country from the danger
with which it had been threatened ; and the magistrates
testified their gratitude for this important service by
presenting Sir George and the principal officers with
the freedom of the city. On the breaking out of the
rebellion in 1715, the council provided for the security
of Edinburgh by repairing and fortifying the walls and
gates, augmenting the town-guard, arming the trained
bands, raising a body of 400 men, well equipped, to be
maintained at the city's expense, and by fitting out
several vessels to assist the king's ships. The forces of
the Earl of Mar made an attempt to surprise the castle,
in which they were frustrated by the vigilance of the
garrison; and about 1500 of the rebel army, under
Brigadier Me Intosh, contrived to cross the Forth, and
land in East Lothian, whence they marched to Edin-
burgh ; but the city was too well guarded to afford
them any hope of entering it, and they therefore re-
moved to Leith, and took possession of the citadel,
which they fortified. The Duke of Argyll advanced
with his forces to dislodge them, but, being unprovided
with artillery, withdrew, threatening to return with a
reinforcement : during his absence, however, the}' eva-
cuated Leith ; and, 6000 troops arriving from Holland
to the assistance of the government, the rebellion lan-
guished, and tranquillity was soon restored. In 17-5,
a destructive fire occurred in the Lawnmarket, which
burned with so much rapidity that many houses in the
city, with all their effects, were destroyed ; a subscrip-
tion was opened for the relief of the sufferers, and
nearly £1000 were obtained. About this time, in con-
sideration of the arduous duties devolving on the pro-
vost, an addition of £300 per annum was voted for de-
fraying his expenses.
In 1J36, the execution of a smuggler in the Grass-
market excited a tumult, on which occasion Porteotjs,
Vol. I.— 369
captain of the guard, ordered his men to fire on the
populace, when six men were killed, and eleven wounded.
For this act, Porteous was prosecuted, and convicted of
murder by the unanimous verdict of the jury ; but Queen
Caroline, acting as regent in the absence of George I.
in Hanover, granted him a reprieve, which so exasper-
ated the people that they assembled in great numbers
on the night previous to the execution, surprised and
disarmed the town-guard, blockaded the gates of the
city to prevent the entrance of troops quartered in
the suburbs, and proceeded to the prison, liberating all
the prisoners with the exception of Porteous. Him they
led to the Grassmarket by torch-light ; and after allow-
ing an acquaintance to receive what property he had,
they conducted him to the spot where the six men had
been killed, reproached him with his inhuman conduct,
hanged him, and then dispersed without committing any
further outrage. To punish this insult to the govern-
ment, the lord provost was committed to prison, and,
after three weeks' confinement, admitted to bail, and
ordered to appear, with four of the bailies, at the bar of
the house of lords, in London, where three of the lords
justiciary were also commanded to attend. A bill was
brought in for disqualifying the provost from holding
any office of magistracy in the city of Edinburgh or
any other part of Great Britain, and for confining him
in close custody for one year, for abolishing the town-
guard, and taking down the gates of the Netherbow. All
these enactments, however, were afterwards commuted
for a fine of £2000 to be paid by the city to the widow of
Captain Porteous. In the year 1740, there was a great
dearth of provisions in Edinburgh and the vicinity, and
the magistrates had recourse to every expedient for the
relief of the prevailing distress ; large public and private
contributions were raised ; the banks volunteered loans
of money without interest to the magistrates, for the
purchase of supplies, which were sold at moderate prices
to the poorer inhabitants, and by these means the cala-
mity w7as greatly alleviated.
Events of 1745.
In 1745, the council, apprised by letter from one of the
secretaries of state, that the eldest son of the Pretender
meditated an invasion of the kingdom, took every pre-
caution to meet the threatened danger, and provide for
the security of the city. The town-guard was augmented
to 126 men, the trained bands kept in constant readi-
ness to act, and a body of 1000 men was raised to serve
under the lord provost and council ; the walls were
repaired, and the fortifications put into a proper state of
defence ; and the banks and public offices sent their
cash and valuable property to the castle. The king's
forces, however, who, with the town-guard, were posted
at Corstorphine, fled precipitately on the approach of the
Pretender's army, which had crossed the Forth a little
above Stirling. The town-guard retreated into Edin-
burgh, and the citizens assembled in the New Church to
deliberate upon the expediency of holding out, when it
was resolved to capitulate on the best terms that could
be obtained. But while appointing deputies to treat for
this purpose, a letter was handed to the lord provost
and magistrates, sigued " Charles, Prince of Wales,"
setting forth that " the prince was now ready to enter
with his army into the metropolis of his ancient king-
3 B
ED I N
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dom," and upon this the meeting broke up in the great-
est confusion. Early the next morning, a coach was
seen driving through the town towards the Netherbow
gate, which the sentinel, suspecting no danger, opened to
let it pass ; but no sooner was the gate opened than a
party of Highlanders that had reached it undiscovered
rushed into the town, made themselves masters of the
gates, took the soldiers on duty prisoners, secured the
town-guard, and seized the arms and ammunition.
About noon, the Highland army, headed by the Young-
Pretender, arrived in the King's park, and encamped
at Duddingston ; the prince and his suite took posses-
sion of the palace of Holyrood House, and compelled the
heralds of the town to publish at the Cross a declaration
proclaiming a regency, and a manifesto promising to the
citizens the free exercise of the Protestant religion, and
the unrestrained enjoyment of all their rights and privi-
leges. The inhabitants were ordered to deliver up their
arms at the palace ; the soldiers and others of the High-
land army were strictly prohibited from molesting the
citizens, or pillaging their property, on pain of summary
execution. A message was sent to the magistrates, re-
quiring them to furnish a supply of stores, for which
payment was promised on the restoration and settlement
of the public affairs ; and an assessment of two shillings
and sixpence in the pound was made for that purpose
on the rents of the citizens.
On the 20th of September, the Young Pretender and
his army marched from their camp at Duddingston,
in pursuit of the royal troops, which consisted of 3000
infantry, with some dragoons and aitillery, encamped
near Prestonpans ; and early on the following morning,
an engagement took place, which ended in the total de-
feat of the royal army, with the loss of their artillery,
baggage, and military chest, with which the prince re-
turned triumphantly to Edinburgh. The conquerors
conducted themselves with the greatest moderation ; their
prisoners were liberated on parole, and the clergy or-
dered to continue their sacred functions as formerly,
but they all declined, with the exception of the minister
of the West, and the lecturer of the Tron, kirk, who con-
tinued to pray for the king byname without molestation.
The military abstained from plunder, and during their
stay in the city conducted themselves with order and
regularity. The castle was still unassailed, and the
garrison had hitherto avoided all interference with the
invaders ; but on some alarm, a few shots were discharged
on the Highlanders who defended the west gate of the
city, and on the following day orders were issued to the
guard to cut off all intercourse between the city and the
castle. Upon this the governor, fearing a want of pro-
visions, sent a letter to the lord provost, stating that,
unless free intercourse were permitted, he should be com-
pelled to dislodge the Highland guard ; and the magis-
trates thereupon sending a deputation to the Pretender,
a truce for a short time was concluded. A few days
afterwards the sentinels of the West fort, firing upon a
party who were carrying provisions to the castle, the
garrison commenced a severe cannonade on the city.
Many of the houses were greatly damaged, and some set
on fire ; the streets were scoured with cartridge-shot
discharged from the cannon on the lower hill, and seve-
ral of the inhabitants were killed ; but on the next day,
the Pretender issued a proclamation withdrawing the
blockade of the castle, and all further hostilities ceased.
370
Upon the 31st of October, the prince marched for
England with 6000 men, and besieged Carlisle, which he
took by storm ; but, meeting with little support from his
adherents in England, and impeded by the vigilance of
the royal army, he retreated to Scotland, and having gain-
ed some advantage at Falkirk, returned to Edinburgh,
and made an attempt to reduce the castle, in which he
failed. The forces under the Duke of Cumberland beino-
now in pursuit of the rebels, they retreated with precipi-
tation towards the north ; but the duke having secured
the passes at Perth and Stirling, and intercepted a ves-
sel from France, which had been sent with supplies, the
Pretender's army was overtaken on the plains of Culloden.
Here, after a severe battle, in which above "2000 were left
dead on the field, the rebellion was totally extinguished;
and the prince, after numerous adventures, in which
his life was in the power of numbers, whom the reward of
£30,000 for his apprehension could not prompt to betray
him, escaped in safety to the continent. Fourteen of
the standards borne by the rebel army were conveyed to
Edinburgh, and burnt at the Cross with every mark of
ignominious contempt ; and Archibald Stewart, Esq.,
the lord provost, was now brought to trial in London
for neglect in not taking due precautions for the defence
of the city, but, after a long investigation, was acquitted.
The city was for some time without any settled govern-
ment, and the citizens petitioned the king for a restitu-
tion of their rights, which he granted by issuing an order
for the election of their magistrates according to their
wonted usage. The new magistrates and council pre-
sented an address of congratulation to the king on the
suppression of the rebellion, and ordered the freedom of
Edinburgh to be presented to the Duke of Cumberland
in a box of gold ; they offered to raise a body of 1000
men for the support of the government, and after the
restoration of tranquillity paid great attention to the ex-
tension and improvement of the city, by commencing the
erection of the New Town.
During the reign of George III., the peace was fre-
quently interrupted : in 1779, a violent tumult was ex-
cited by the enemies of popery ; the houses of many of
the Roman Catholics were destroyed, and numerous
outrages committed. For some years, the magistrates
maintained a force of five regiments of cavalry, two
companies of volunteer artillery, and a company of
spearmen, for preserving order. In the progress of the
French Revolution, a numerous party of republicans
calling themselves Friends of the People, and a body
styled the National Convention, assembled in the city,
and held regular meetings, though occasionally dispersed
by the government authorities ; and on the 31st of
December, 1811, a large concourse of the most noto-
rious and lawless characters, armed with bludgeons,
during the whole of that night committed the most
desperate outrages. Several of the police were wounded,
and one man killed ; but the riot was ultimately quelled,
and three of the rioters were hanged on a gallows raised
in the High-street. Almost all those concerned in this
outbreak were young men, chiefly under twenty years of
age ; and the alarm created by their proceedings led to
several beneficial plans for the better education of the
young. In 1815, the victory of Waterloo was cele-
brated here with the most triumphant rejoicings, and a
resolution was passed for the erection of a monument
on the Calton hill in commemoration of the event.
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Visits of George IV. and Her present Majesty.
In 1S22, His Majesty George IV. paid a visit to the
city, on which occasion the influx of strangers from all
quarters of the country, and of all ranks, was immense.
In addition to the several regiments of the Scots Greys,
the dragoon guards, and other troops of the line, yeo-
manry cavalry and many parties of Highlanders in
their costume were sent by the chiefs of the various
clans, among which that of Sutherland was the most
conspicuous, to grace the triumphal entry of the sove-
reign. The slopes of Salisbury Crags, in the King's
Park, and the north acclivities of the Castle hill, were
covered with military tents and marquees for their tem-
porary accommodation ; and on the front of the Crags
were planted several pieces of cannon. The king, who
arrived in the Leith roads on the 14th of August,
landed on the following day, and made his entrance into
Edinburgh, escorted by a splendid retinue. He ad-
vanced from the harbour, aloug Leith-walk and the
Terrace-road on Calton hill, to the palace of Holyrood
House, to which a new and more commodious approach
had been opened for the occasion ; and during the pro-
cession His Majesty frequently expressed his admira-
tion of the noble streets and buildings of the city,
and the romantic scenery in the vicinity. After re-
maining for some time at Holyrood House, the king
proceeded to the palace of Dalkeith, the seat of the
Duke of Buccleuch, where he resided during the rest of
his stay in Scotland. In the evening the city was bril-
liantly illuminated, and salutes from the castle, Salis-
bury Crags, the numerous shipping in the roads, the
fort of Leith, and the various regiments, were fired in
honour of the royal visit ; bonfires were lighted on
Arthur's Seat and other eminences, and every demon-
stration of an ardent and joyful welcome was testified.
Upon the 17th, the king held a levee in Holyrood
House, which was attended hy a numerous assemblage
of the nobility and gentry, naval and military officers,
and the public functionaries. On the 19th there was
another levee, at which he received the addresses of the
General Assembly, the Scottish Episcopal Church, the
Universities, and the Highland Society ; and on the
20th, the king held a drawing-room, which was graced
by the presence of five hundred ladies of the first rank
in the country. His Majesty, on the 22nd, went in
state from the palace, through the Canongate and High-
street, to the castle, and on the next day reviewed
about 3000 of the yeomanry cavalry on the Portobello
sands, after which he was present at a grand ball in the
assembly-rooms in George-street, attended by all the
peers of Scotland. A banquet was given by the civic
authorities in the parliament-house, on Saturday, the
24th, on which occasion the king conferred upon Wil-
liam Arbuthnot, Esq., the lord provost, the honour of a
baronetcy ; and on the morning of Sunday he attended
divine service in the High Church, when the sermon
was preached by Dr. Lamont, moderator of the General
Assembly. On the 26th His Majesty appeared at a
ball given in the assembly-rooms by the members of
the Caledonian Hunt. Upon the following day he
authorised the laying of the first stone of the national
monument by the Duke of Hamilton, grand master
mason of Scotland ; and in the evening visited the
theatre. On the same evening there was a ball in honour
371
of the royal visit, under the patronage of the Duchesses of
Atholl and Montrose and other ladies of rank. On Wed-
nesday, the king paid a visit to the Marquess of Lothian
at Newbattle Abbey ; and on Thursday, the 29th, after
a short visit to the Earl of Hopetoun at his seat, Hope-
toun House, he embarked at Port-Edgar, on his return
to England, impressed with a deep sense of the cordial
hospitality and fervid loyalty of his Scottish subjects.
In the year 1S24, a destructive fire broke out in the
city, which continued to rage with unabated fury,
threatening the neighbourhood with desolation, and
filling the inhabitants with consternation and dismay ;
but, after doing very considerable damage, it was sub-
dued.
In 1842, the city was visited by Her present Majesty,
accompanied by Prince Albert and a distinguished suite.
The royal party arrived in the Firth of Forth on the
night of Wednesday, the 31st of August, and the course
of the vessels bearing the royal visiters was facilitated
by the streams of light issuing from the numerous bon-
fires on the adjacent hills, the effect of which was mag-
nificent in the extreme. On the following morning Her
Majesty landed, and proceeded to Dalkeith, the splendid
seat of the Duke of Buccleuch ; on Friday night, the
city was illuminated in honour of the royal visit ; and
on Saturday morning, September 3rd, Her Majesty
made her formal entry into Edinburgh, amid the enthu-
siastic acclamations of an immense multitude. The
various public bodies of the city were arranged on the
occasion, to do honour to the Queen ; and in front of
the Royal Exchange, the lord provost, attended by the
magistrates and other authorities, presented the keys of
the city to Her Majesty, who immediately returned them,
and proceeded to the castle, where the royal party re-
mained for a short time. Her Majesty then passed
clown Princes-street, and shortly afterwards quitted the
city for Dalmeny, the seat of the Earl of Rosebery,
from which she returned in the afternoon, through
Leith, to Dalkeith. On Monday, the 5th, the Queen
held her court at Dalkeith ; and on the following day
set out for the Highlands, where she continued on a
tour till Tuesday, the 13th, on the afternoon of which
she reached Dalkeith : on Thursday morning, September
15th, Her Majesty, Prince Albert, and suite, left for
England, by sea.
Description of the City.
The city of Edinburgh is built on a series of hills
rising abruptly from a level tract of land in the northern
portion of the county, about two miles from the Firth
of Forth. The ground ascends gradually from the
Firth for nearly a mile towards the south, attaining at
the plain whereon the palace of Holyrood House is situ-
ated, an elevation of about ninety-four feet above the
level of high-water mark. From this plain, the hill on
which the Old Town is built, and which, with reference to
the others, may be called the central hill, rises in the
form of a flat ridge, increasing by degrees in width for
almost a mile and a quarter, and terminating on the
west in a precipitous rock on whose summit stands the
castle, elevated about ISO feet above the plain of Holy-
rood on the east, and 274 feet above, the level of the
Firth.
The Old Town, which owed its origin to the castle,
3 B 2
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formerly extended but a short distance from that for-
tress, and ended at the Netherbow port, one of the
gates of the ancient city, now taken down ; it con-
sisted only of the main street on the summit of the
ridge, and of several wynds and closes stretching down
the steep declivities on both sides. The buildings,
however, were subsequently continued towards the
east ; and the High-street at present forms a conti-
nuous line of more than a mile in length, including the
Castle-walk leading from the Castle hill, the Lawn-
market, and the Canongate, the whole extending from
the castle on the west to the palace of Holyrood on the
east, and containing numerous lofty and well-built
houses, of which many are of ancient character and of
handsome appearance. Nearly parallel with the High-
street, on the north, are, the street called the North-
Back of the Canongate, and also ths Calton, commu-
nicating with the road to Leith ; and on the south is a
line of nearly equal length with the High-street, reach-
ing from the suburb of Portsburgh on the west, and
including the Grassmarket, the Cowgate, and the South-
Back of the Canongate. These streets are intersected
by the Pleasance, continued through St. Mary's-wynd
and Leith-wynd ; Bridge-street, leading along the north
and south bridges, and uniting the southern districts
with the Old and New Town ; and St. John's-street. To
the west of Bridge-street are, the site of the ancient
Cross now removed, and the Parliament-square, con-
taining several stately edifices. The southern declivities
of the ridge occupied by the main street terminate in a
level tract of inconsiderable breadth, on which the Cow-
gate is situated ; and beyond this the ground rises gra-
dually, and expands into a wide open plain. The north-
ern declivities of the ridge are much more abrupt, and
terminate in some flat ground of moderate breadth,
which, being formerly covered with water, was called the
North Loch, but which is now about to form a site for
the termini of three great railways : beyond this the sur-
face rises, by a gradual ascent, to the flat hill on which
the New Town is built.
The extension of the town on the north side of the
loch was projected in the reign of Charles II. ; but no
efforts were made to that effect till the year 1751, when
the fall of an old house, and the dangerous condition of
many others in the town, led to the draining of the lake
and the foundation of a bridge, of which the first stone
was laid by Provost Drummond on the 21st of October,
1763. The bridge, which was erected under the super-
intendence of Mr. Who. Mylne, brother of the architect
of Blackfriars bridge, London, was scarcely completed,
in 1769, when the southern arch and side walls gave way,
and several persons were killed ; it was, however, finished
in 1772, at an expense of £18,000, and is a handsome
structure of three noble arches, each seventy-two feet in
span, and sixty-eight feet high, with two smaller arches
of about twenty feet span, at either end, and numerous
others that are inclosed and occupied as warehouses and
vaults.
The New Town, which is connected with the Old by
this bridge, called the North bridge, and also by a large
mound of earth to the west, formed across the valley,
and of which the acclivities are embellished with plan-
tations, consists principally of three spacious parallel
streets. Of these, Princes-street, on the south, forms
a magnificent terrace of fine houses with pleasure-
372
grounds in front, nearly a mile in length, and commu-
nicates with the new London road on the east ; George-
street, to the north, extends from Charlotte-square on
the west, a splendid range of noble houses, to St.
Andrew's-square on the east, also an elegant area, sur-
rounded by handsome buildings ; and Queen-street,
still further to the north, the third of these spacious
streets, reaches from Albyn-place on the west to York-
place on the east. Between Princes- street and George-
street, and likewise between George-street and Queen -
street, are two parallel ranges of narrower streets, of
•which the former includes West, Middle, and East
Rose streets, and the latter, Young-street, and East
and West Thistle streets ; and intersecting these, at
right angles, are numerous good streets from north to
south, of which the principal are Charlotte, Castle,
Frederick, Hanover, St. David's, and St. Andrew's
streets. To the north of Queen-street, but separated
from it to the west by a wide valley agreeably disposed
in pleasure-grounds and public walks, are, Heriot-row,
Abercromby-place, Albany-street, and Forth-street, the
last directly communicating with Union-street lead-
ing to Leith-walk. Parallel with these, northward, are,
Jamaica-street, Northumberland-street, and Brough-
ton-place ; beyond are Great King-street, Drummond-
place, and London-street ; and parallel with these, and
still further to the north, are Cumberland-street and
Fettes-row. To the west of this part of the New Town
is the Royal Circus, a spacious area tastefully laid out,
and surrounded with elegant houses ; to the east are
the Royal-crescent and Bellevue-crescent ; and inter-
secting the ranges of parallel streets mentioned in the
two preceding sentences, at right angles, are, India-
street, St. Vincent's-street, and Howe-street, Pitt and
Dundas streets, Nelson-street and Duncan-street. To
the east of the last-named are Scotland, Dublin, and
Duke streets, all containing well-built houses.
During the delay which occurred in the formation of
the New Town, a very considerable district on the
south of the Old was erected on ground which, the
magistrates having neglected to purchase it, was bought
by Mr. Brown, an enterprising builder, who raised some
handsome houses called Brown-square. The circum-
stance of these being soon occupied by respectable
families led to the erection of George-square, on a more
extensive scale, and in a superior elegance of style;
several fine streets were afterwards built, and also addi-
tional squares, of which Argyll, Adam's, and Nicholson
squares are the principal ; many new lines of approach
were opened, and the buildings of the university erected.
This important district was subsequently extended
westward, beyond Heriot's and Watson's hospitals, to
Lauriston, and southward to Newington ; anil a large
suburb of handsome streets and elegant villas reaches
towards the south-east, almost to the base of Salis-
bury Crags, a remarkable hill, forming an exceedingly
romantic feature in the scenery of Edinburgh, and sepa-
rated from Arthur's Seat by a deep valley called the
Hunter's Bog. The want of a more direct, line of com-
munication with the Old Town was soon strongly felt,
and for this purpose the South bridge, in a line with
the North bridge, was commenced in 1785, and com-
pleted in 17S9. It is a substantial structure of twenty-
two arches of various dimensions, all of which are
concealed by houses, except one over the Cowgate,
ED I N
E D I N
which is thirty feet in span., and thirty-six in height,
defended on each side by an iron palisade, affording a
view of the Cowgate beneath : the houses on this bridge
are all uniformly built.
Since the formation of the New Town, very exten-
sive additions have been made to the city in all direc-
tions. On the north-west, between Charlotte-square
and the Leith water, some splendid ranges of building
have been erected on the grounds of Drumseugh, the
property of the Earl of Moray, consisting of Moray-
place, a spacious octagon, communicating with an oval
of smaller dimensions on the west, and in which are
mansions in the first style of elegance ; and several
squares, streets, and places, among which are, Ainslie-
place, Randolph-crescent, and numerous other stately
piles. In the immediate vicinity, on the great north
road, a handsome structure called the Dean Bridge has
been erected over the ravine through which the Leith
water flows, connecting the western extremity of the
New Town with the parks on the north side of that river.
This bridge, a massive edifice of four arches, of which
the two central are of stupendous height, was com-
pleted in 1832 ; and several detached mansions have
been subsequent!}' proposed to be erected, and surrounded
with an ample demesne of pleasure-grounds and gar-
dens. A very considerable addition to the New Town
was made about the same time, to the west of Princes-
street, on the lands of Coates, the property of Sir
Patrick Walker. Some fine ranges of streets were
formed in the park here, previously the seat of the
Byres family, and of these Melville-street, almost in a
line with George-street, contains some very stately
buildings : close to Melville-street, on the Glasgow-
road, are Atholl and Coates crescents, facing each other,
with shrubberies in front, and both remarkable for
the beauty of their architecture ; also Rutland- street
and Rutland-square, to the south of which are hand-
some streets leading to Port-Hopetoun, built since the
construction of the Union canal.
To the east of the New Town, also, many important
additions have been made. Picardy-place, an elegant
pile of buildings, has been erected, to the north-east of
which are Gayfield-square and Greenside-place ; and a
noble line of approach has been opened from the
Calton hill by the removal of the houses of Shakspeare-
square, at the eastern extremity of Princes-street, and
by the construction of the Regent's bridge. This is a
handsome structure of one arch, fifty feet in span and
fifty feet high, completed in IS 19, connecting Princes-
street with the hill, and communicating with the new
London road. The parapets of the bridge are orna-
mented with niches and well-formed pillars connected
with the houses in Waterloo-place, a fine range four
stories in height, on the south side of which are the
post-office and stamp-office, both handsome buildings ;
and an elegant hotel has been built by a proprietary
of shareholders, at an expense of £30,000. From
Waterloo-place, the new London road sweeps round
the face of Calton hill, in which direction, also, nume-
rous additions to the city have been made. The Leith-
walk, more than a mile in length, has been wholly
paved, and forms a grand line of approach, having on
both sides detached rows of well-built houses with plea-
sure-grounds in front, and nurseries and plantations in
the intervals ; and on the east of Calton hill, and
encircling it at a considerable height from its base,
are, Carlton-terrace, the Royal-terrace, and Regent-
terrace, superb lines of houses, commanding a fine view
of the Firth of Forth, the coasts of Fife and Haddington,
and the bay of Musselburgh. At some distance from
Leith-walk, towards the north-west, is Claremont-cres-
cent, in front of which are the Zoological gardens ; and
there are several ranges of handsome streets in the
grounds of Hillside, the property of Mr. Allan. Addi-
tional facilities of communication with the Old Town
have been afforded by the erection of George IV.'s
bridge over the Cowgate from the Lawnmarket to
Bristo-street, a well-built structure of numerous arches,
of which three only are left open ; and also by the
construction of a bridge on the south side of the
castle, by the commissioners for the improvement of
the city.
In conclusion : the long avenues of noble streets in-
tersecting each other at right angles, and containing
uniform ranges of handsome houses ; the numerous
terraces, places, crescents, and squares of splendid
mansions, enlivened with gardens, shrubberies, and
pleasure-grounds in the very centre of the town ; the
spacious walks, the stateliness of the public buildings,
the imposing aspect of the ancient castle, the palace,
with the venerable ruins of the abbey of Holyrood and
parks adjoining; the Zoological gardens, and those of
the Botanical and Horticultural Societies ; the monu-
ments on the Calton hill, with the beautiful line of
approach from the town ; the romantic scenery in the
immediate vicinity, Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, the
avenue of Leith-walk, and other lines of communication
with the different suburbs, and a vast variety of other
interesting features ; all these contribute to impart to
the city an air of impressive grandeur and magnificence.
The environs in every direction abound with pic-
turesque and richly-diversified scenery, and command
extensive prospects over a wide extent of country em-
bellished with features of romantic beauty and objects
of intense interest. Among the more prominent of these
are, the palace and grounds of Dalkeith, the seat of the
Duke of Buccleuch ; Duddingston House, the seat of
the Marquess of Abercorn ; Hawthornden, remarkable
for its situation on a precipitous rock overhanging the
North Esk ; Roslin Castle, the ancient seat of the St.
Clairs, earls of Orkney, with the beautiful ruins of the
ancient chapel, one of the richest specimens of eccle-
siastical architecture extant ; Corstorphine, adorned by
its luxuriant woods and numerous picturesque villas ;
with the towns of Newhaven and Portobello, favourite
resorts for sea-bathing.
The Castle.
The castle is most romantically situated at the western
extremity of the ridge on which the Old Town is built,
and, with its several buildings, occupies an irregular
area of about seven acres, on the summit of a rugged
rock rising almost perpendicularly from its base to a
height of more than 300 feet, and inaccessible on all
sides except the east. The approach from the town is
by an esplanade, 350 feet in length and 300 feet in
breadth, inclosed on both sides by iron palisades, and
forming a favourite promenade; on the north side is a
handsome bronze statue of the Duke of York, in the
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robes of the order of the garter, placed on a pedestal,
and holding in his hand a field-marshal's baton. At
the west end of the esplanade, a draw-bridge over a
wide and deep fosse, flanked on each side by a battery,
leads to the guard-house, to the left of which is a well
for supplying the garrison with water. Beyond this,
the path conducts round the north side of the rock,
under two gateways, of which one, formerly used as a
state prison, is defended by a portcullis, whence a long
flight of steps forms an ascent to the Half-moon battery
and the more ancient parts of the fortress. The Half-
moon battery is mounted with fourteen eighteen-
pounders, commanding the town, and is a massive
circular tower, above the battlements of which the royal
standard is displayed on public occasions. The Argyll
battery, mounting ten guns of twelve and eighteen-
pounders, from which salutes are generally fired, over-
looks the New Town ; and on the acclivity of the hill
are the houses of the governor, fort-major, and store-
master, the ordnance-office, the powder-magazine, which
is bomb- proof, the grand store-room, and the arsenal,
which is capable of containing 30,000 stand of arms.
The new barracks, a spacious range of buildings four
stories in height, are adapted for the accommodation
of 1000 men ; and near them is the chapel of the gar-
rison, above which is the bomb-battery, on the highest
point of the rock, having near it the ancient piece of
ordnance called " Mons Meg," mounted on an elegant
carriage bearing the following inscriptions : " Believed
to have been forged at Mons, A.D. 14S6 ;" "At the
siege of Norham Castle, A.D. 1497;" "Sent to the
Tower of London, A.D. 1754;" "Restored to Scotland
by his Majesty George IV., A.D. IS1?!?."
The more ancient part of the castle comprises a qua-
drangular court of considerable extent, of which the
south side is occupied by the buildings formerly the
parliament-house, and now appropriated to the use of
the district military and regimental hospital : the north
side is formed by the barracks, and the west by various
apartments for the garrison. The east side contains
the principal range, surmounted by an octagonal turret
of considerable elevation, and was anciently the royal
residence : here is the apartment in which James VI.
was born ; over the door is the letter M, with the date
1566, and on the north gable are a rose and thistle,
with the date 16 15. Mary of Guise is said to have died
in this apartment ; but in its present state it displays
no appearance to warrant that opinion. In this part
of the quadrangle is the crown room, in which, upon
the Union, were deposited the ancient regalia of
Scotland, though they were generally supposed to have
been sent to the Tower of London : on a search under
a commission issued in 181S by George IV., then
regent, to several noblemen, the judges of the Supreme
Court, the lord provost, and other gentlemen, among
whom was Sir Walter Scott, they were found inclosed
in an oak chest, together with a deed of deposition,
dated the 26th of March, 1707. These regalia, which
are open for public inspection daily, from twelve to
three o'clock, on producing a ticket, obtainable at the
Exchange, consist of the royal crown of Scotland, the
sceptre, the sword of state, and a silver rod of office
supposed to be that of the lord treasurer; and in the
same room are preserved the ruby ring, set round with
diamonds, which was worn by Charles I. at his coro-
374
nation ; and the golden collar and badge of the order
of the garter, sent by Queen Elizabeth to James VI.,
and the badge of the order of the thistle, bequeathed
by Cardinal York to George IV., and deposited here
in 1830. This ancient and venerable castle, though
much disfigured in its appearance by an admixture of
modern alterations of incongruous character, forms,
from its elevated and commanding situation, a strik-
ingly impressive feature in the view of the town.
The Abbey and Palace of Holyrood.
At the eastern extremity of the town are the remains
of the ancient Abbey of Holyrood, founded by David I.
for monks of the order of St. Augustine, and dedicated
to the Holy Cross, in gratitude for his deliverance from
danger while hunting. This monastery, which was libe-
rally endowed by the king and by many of his succes-
sors, was one of the richest establishments of the kind
in the kingdom ; but it was destroyed by the English
under the Earl of Hertford in 1545, and little of the
building remains except the nave of the ancient church,
which was an elegant cruciform structure, a portion
of which was appropriated as the chapel royal. The
chapel was thoroughly repaired in the year 1633, on
the visit of Charles I. to Scotland, and afterwards, more
completely, for his coronation ; but at the time of the
Revolution it was plundered by a mob, who stripped it
of the roof, destroyed the monuments, took away the
coffins of the kings and nobles who had been interred
within its walls, and scattered their bones in the wildest
disorder. The royal vault, when opened a few years
previously, in 16S3, had been found to contain the cof-
fins of James V. and his queen, Magdalene ; their son,
Prince Arthur, aud Arthur, son of James IV., who both
died in infancy ; Lord Darnley ; and Lady Jane Stuart,
Countess of Argyll. The chapel remained roofless till
1758, when it was covered with a ponderous roof of
flag stones, beneath the weight of which the walls gave
way, and the building has from that time been a ruin.
The remains consist chiefly of the west front and a por-
tion of the side walls and piers : the entrance is by a
richly-decorated arch, flanked on each side by a lofty
square embattled tower; above the arch is a noble win-
dow of elegant design, and those parts of the interior
which are yet entire display great beauty and costly
magnificence of style. In the north-west tower is a
handsome marble monument to Lord Belhaven, of the
Douglas family, who died in 1639 ; but though the cha-
pel is still used as a burial-place by distinguished fami-
lies, it contains no other monuments of importance. In
the aisles are numerous gravestones, of which one is
pointed out as the grave of David Rizzio ; and there is
a tablet to the memory of Adam Bothwell, Bishop of
Orkney.
The Palace of Holyrood House, originally built
by James IV., and enlarged by James V., and which
was a very spacious structure consisting of five sepa-
rate quadrangles, was burnt by Cromwell's soldiers
during the parliamentary war, and rebuilt, with the
exception of the north-west towers, after the Resto-
ration. The present palace, erected from a design by
Sir William Bruce, is a stately quadrangular struc-
ture in the Palladian style of architecture, inclosing an
area of about 100 feet square, to which the principal
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entrance is on the north-west, by a handsome gateway
in the centre of the front, which, at each of the angles,
is flanked by two lofty circular towers, embattled,
and crowned with a pyramidal roof terminating in a
point surmounted by a vane. The quadrangle is sur-
rounded with a piazza, in the south-west angle of which
is the entrance to the royal apartments, by a grand
staircase leading to the throne room, in which is a por-
trait of George IV. in the Highland costume, by Wilkie.
On the north side of the quadrangle is the picture gal-
lery, 150 feet in length and twenty-eight feet wide, of
which the walls are painted by De Wit with more than
a hundred full-length portraits and heads of the Scot-
tish kings, but which were mutilated and defaced by
the soldiers under General Hawley, after their defeat at
the battle of Falkirk. In this gallery the election of
the representative peers of Scotland takes place on the
summoning of every new parliament.
The north-west portion of the palace contains the
apartments of Queen Mary, and those of the Duke of
Hamilton, hereditary keeper, which latter occupy the
first floor under the queen's, and in one of which the
marriage with the Earl of Bothwell is supposed to have
been celebrated. The apartment in the western front
of the tower called the queen's bed-chamber is hung
with tapestry, and contains a portrait of Queen Eliza-
beth, of which the hands are stained with blood, and
■various articles of furniture said to have been used by
Mary. Attached to it is the queen's dressing-room, in
the south-west turret ; and to the right of it is the
closet in which the queen, with the Countess of Argyll
and a few other ladies of the court, was at supper when
Lord Darnley, the Lord Ruthven, and others, entering
by a staircase from the chapel royal, seized Rizzio, who
"was sitting at a side table, and, dragging him to the
head of the staircase, dispatched him with their dag-
gers. In the queen's presence-chamber are numerous
paintings, comparatively of recent date ; and in the
apartments of the duke are also many paintings and
portraits. The palace, from 1795 to 1799, afforded an
asylum to Charles X. of France, then Count D'Artois,
who, with his suite, occupied the royal apartments ;
and subsequently, in the year 1S30, the same monarch,
■with his family, consisting of the Duke and Duchess
D'Angouleme, the Duchess de Berri, and her son, the
Duke de Bourdeaux, and a numerous suite, whom the
revolution had driven into exile, remained in the palace
till their departure from Scotland.
In the grounds on the north and east of the palace
and the chapel ro3fal, and which were inclosed by a
handsome iron palisade on the visit of George IV., the
foundations of the church of the ancient abbey of Holy-
rood may be still distinctly traced. In ^the royal
gardens is preserved Queen Mary's sun-dial ; and
in the avenue from the park is an ancient building
which has obtained the name of the Queen's Bath ;
while in the Canongate is a large edifice, for many
years the residence of the Earl of Murray, regent, to
whom it had been given by the queen, and in the gar-
dens attached to which is a tree said to have been
planted by her. Within the sanctuary of Holyrood
House, which still affords security for twenty-four hours
to persons flying from their creditors, and to whom a
bailie appointed by the Duke of Hamilton afterwards
grants protection, on application in that time, are the
3?5
parks of St. Anne's-yards, the Duke's-walk, and Ar-
thur's Seat, on which last are the remains of the cha-
pel and hermitage of St. Anthony, with a spring of fine
water, called St. Anthony's well ; and also within the
precincts of the sanctuary are Salisbury Crags and the
south parks, extending to Duddingston loch. In August,
1843, an act of parliament was passed authorising the
transfer of the keepership of the royal park of Holyrood
House from the Earl of Haddington, the hereditary
keeper, to the Commissioners of Woods and Forests.
There are still some remains of the ancient palace
and oratory of Mary of Guise, queen of James V., and
mother of Mary, Queen of Scots, situated in Blyth's-
close ; over the door of the former is the cipher of that
queen, with the inscription Laus et Honor Deo. The
situation of the building, which has long been divided
into small tenements, and occupied by the humblest
class, is exceedingly inappropriate for a royal residence ;
and but for the cipher over the door, it could not be
supposed to have had any claims to that distinction.
The Parliament House, and Square.
The parliament-house, situated in Parliament-square,
was built in 1640, at an expense of £11,000. The hall,
in which the pai-liaments were anciently held, is a noble
apartment 122 feet in length and nearly fifty feet wide,
with a lofty roof of old timber frame-work, richly carved,
and ornamented with gilding, supported by arches rest-
ing on corbels on the walls. It is lighted by a range
of four spacious windows on the west side, and at the
south end is a handsome window of large dimensions
and of elegant design, embellished with stained glass,
in which is a well-painted figure of Justice, with the
appropriate emblems. Near the north end is a statue
of the first Lord Melville, finely executed in marble by
Chantrey ; on the east side of the hall is one of the
Lord President Forbes by Roubilliac, erected at the ex-
pense of the Faculty of Advocates ; and on the opposite
side, towards the south end, are two other statues by
Chantrey, of Lord Chief Baron Dundas and Lord Presi-
dent Blair. The walls of the parliament-house were for-
merly hung with portraits of William III., Queen Mary,
and Queen Anne, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, and of George
I., and of John and Archibald, dukes of Argyll, all of
which have been removed.
Connected with the parliament-house are the build-
ings appropriated to the use of the library of the
Faculty of Advocates, which was founded by Sir
George Mackenzie, lord advocate of Scotland in the
reign of Charles II., and at present contains about
200,000 volumes, exclusively of an extensive collection
of manuscripts on Scottish history and antiquities. The
library is under a chief librarian and five curators, one
of whom retires annually, and is succeeded by a mem-
ber of the faculty, elected by the body. A considerable
number of the books are kept in apartments underneath
the hall of the parliament-house, and the remainder in
a handsome building adjoining it, containing two spa-
cious rooms, of which the upper is elegantly decorated,
and has a richly-carved ceiling ornamented with gild-
ing. In this room are, a well sculptured bust of Baron
Hume, of the Scottish exchequer, and nephew of the
historian, and portraits of Sir George Mackenzie, the
founder 5 Archbishop Spottiswoode, lord high chancellor
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of Scotland ; the Lords Presidents Forbes and Lockhart,
and other judges of the Supreme Court ; and a portrait
of Andrew Crosbie, Esq., advocate, the prototype of
Sir Walter Scott's " Counsellor Pleydell" in Guy Man-
nering.
Attached also to the buildings of the parliament-
house, is the library of the Writers to the Signet,
a collection of more than 60,000 volumes, under the
direction of a principal librarian and a body of cura-
tors. The building comprises two large apartments,
of which the upper room is 130 feet in length and forty
feet wide ; the lofty, roof is elaborately enriched, and
supported by a noble range of twelve stately columns
on each side, behind which a gallery extends through-
out the whole length. This apartment is lighted by a
cupola in the centre of the ceiling, the interior of which
was painted by T. Stothard, R.A., in 1822, with ara-
besque ornaments and figures of Apollo and the Nine
Muses, and three groups with portraits of eminent
poets, historians, and philosophers, respectively ; in-
cluding Homer, Virgil, Shakspeare, Milton, and Burns
among the poets ; Herodotus, Livy, Hume, Robertson,
and Gibbon ; and Demosthenes, Cicero, Lord Bacon,
Napier of Merchiston, Sir Isaac Newton, and Adam
Smith. On the grand staircase leading to this splen-
did room, is a fine portrait of Lord President Hope
in his robes as lord justice-general, painted by Gordon ;
and on the landing-place are busts of Sir James Gibson
Craig, Bart., and Colin Mackenzie, with portraits of Lord
President Blair and other eminent lawyers.
In the centre of the Parliament-square is an eques-
trian statue of Charles II. erected by the corporation
in 1685, at an expense of £1000, and representing
the king in the Roman costume, with a truncheon
in the right hand ; and the buildings around the area
form a semicircular range, of handsome elevation, with
a piazza in front, comprising, in addition to the par-
liament-house, the exchequer, the justiciary courts, the
courts of session, various other offices, and the Union
Bank of Scotland.
College of Physicians, and of Surgeons, and
the Medical Society's Buildings.
The old hall of the College of Physicians, situated on
the south of George-street, nearly opposite to St. An-
drew's church, and of which the first stone was laid by
Dr. Cullen in 1775, but which has been just removed
to make way for the new buildings of the Commer-
cial Bank of Scotland, was a handsome structure in the
Grecian style, having in the centre of the principal front
a boldly projecting portico of four stately Corinthian
columns, supporting an enriched entablature and cor-
nice, and surmounted by a triangular pediment. The
whole of this elegant edifice was crowned with a parapet
and open balustrade, and the interior comprised a spa-
cious and chastely decorated hall for the meetings of
the members of the college, with various other apart-
ments ; a museum ; and a library fifty feet in length,
thirty feet wide, and twenty feet high, lighted by two
ranges of five windows, and surrounded on three sides
by a gallery. The new hall of the College of Physicians,
situated in Queen-street, is a building of much plainer
appearance. The library is enriched with a series of
works on natural history, presented by Dr. Wright, of
376
Kersey. Surgeons' Hall, belonging to the Royal College
of Surgeons, incorporated by charter in 17S8, and situ-
ated in Nicholson- street, is an elegant structure erected
at a cost of £20,000. The front is embellished with a
noble portico, under which is the chief entrance, and
the interior comprises numerous splendid halls for
the accommodation of the members, a pathological
museum including collections by Dr. Barclay and other
eminent professors, and a valuable repository of prepa-
rations for the illustration of the science. The build-
ings of the Medical Society, originally instituted in 1737,
by Dr. Fothergill and other distinguished physicians,
are situated in Surgeons'-square, to the east of the
Infirmary, and comprise three large rooms, one of
which contains a library of medical works, another a
museum of natural curiosities and anatomical prepa-
rations ; and a laboratory for chemical experiments.
The Royal Exchange, and Bank.
The Royal Exchange, in High-street, nearly fronting
the Parliament-square, and of which the first stone was
laid by George Drummond, Esq., grand master of the
masonic order, in 1753, was completed in 1761, at a
cost of £30,000. It is a handsome quadrangular struc-
ture, of which the south front has a boldly projecting
piazza rising to the height of the first story, and crowned
with a balustrade : above this, the slightly projecting
centre of the front is adorned with four pilasters of the
Corinthian order, supporting an enriched cornice with
an attic, surmounted by a triangular pediment orna-
mented at the angles and on the apex with vases, and
having in the tympanum the city arms, finely sculp-
tured. An archway leads from the piazza into the
quadrangular area, ninety-six feet in length and eighty-
six feet in width, of which three sides are wholly appro-
priated as shops and offices, and the other constitutes
what is properly the Exchange buildings. These form a
handsome range 111 feet in length and fifty-seven feet
in depth, comprising about twenty spacious apartments,
now occupied as the city chambers, for the accommoda-
tion of the town council, the town-clerks, and other
civic functionaries.
The Bank of Scotland, situated in Bank-street,
nearly opposite to George the Fourth's bridge, was first
established by a company incorporated by act of par-
liament in 1695, with a joint-stock of £100,000 ster-
ling, which has been since increased to £2,000,000 ; it is
under the direction of a governor, deputy governor, and
a body of twenty-four directors. The building, erected
at an expense of £75,000, is a fine structure of stone, of
the Corinthian order, having in the centre of the front
tvvo projecting porticos of two columns each, rising
from a rusticated basement, and supporting an enta-
blature and cornice surmounted with an open balustrade
that extends along the whole of the building, at each
end of which are corresponding projections of duplicated
Corinthian pilasters. Over the entrance is a Venetian
window of three lights, divided by Corinthian columns
sustaining an enriched entablature, above which are the
arms of Scotland, having on one side a figure of Plenty,
with an inverted cornucopia, and on the other a figure
of Justice, well sculptured, with the motto Tanto itberior:
behind these, a cupola, surmounted with a dome, rises
from the centre of the building.
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The Royal Bank of Scotland, situated in a recess to
the east of St. Andrew's-square, is a very handsome
building, originally erected by the late Sir Laurence
Dundas as a family residence, but sold by his son to
the Board of Excise, by whom it was occupied for many
years. It has a slight projection in the centre of the
front, embellished with four engaged Corinthian columns
springing from a rusticated basement, in which is the
entrance, and supporting an entablature and cornice, and
a triangular pediment having in the tympanum the royal
arms, finely sculptured.
The Register Office.
The Register Office, situated in Princes-street,
opposite the north end of Bridge-street, was commenced
in 177-1, by a grant of £12,000 obtained by the Earl of
Morton in the reign of George III., and completed in
1S22, at an expense of £40,000. This elegant structure,
which is partly in the Grecian style of architecture,
after a design by Mr. R. Adam, has a principal front 200
feet in length, from which projects a central portico of
four Corinthian columns, rising from a rusticated piazza
of three arches forming the entrance, and supporting
an enriched entablature and cornice, with a triangular
pediment, in the tympanum of which are the arms of
Great Britain. At each of the extremities of the front
is a projecting wing of similar character, with two
columns, between which is a Venetian window, sur-
mounted by a turret and dome rising to a considerable
elevation above the balustrade ; and behind the central
portico are seen the stately cupola and dome that spring
from the interior of the quadrangle. The quadrangle
is surrounded with handsome ranges of building com-
prising ninety-seven vaulted apartments, among which
are, an elegant room thirty-five feet long, twenty-four feet
wide, and twenty-three feet in height, for the use of the
lord registrar, and various rooms for different officers of
the establishment, and for the clerks of the courts
of session and justiciary. Within the quadrangle is
a circular saloon, fifty feet in diameter, rising from the
centre of the inclosure to the height of eighty feet, ex-
tending to the sides of the quadrangle, and leaving at
the angles sufficient space for the admission of light.
The walls are divided into compartments by recesses
for the reception of the public documents, to which
facility of access is afforded by a gallery round the
interior ; and there is a circular window, fifteen feet in
diameter, in the centre of the dome, which is richly
ornamented in stucco. From the saloon two grand
staircases lead to the numerous other apartments where
the national records are deposited.
The Royal and other Literary and Scientific
Institutions.
The Royal Institution, situated at the north end
of the Earthen Mound, in Princes-street, is a spacious
structure erected in 1823, from a design by Mr. Playfair,
upon a foundation of wooden piles which the nature of
the ground rendered necessary for its security ; it was
afterwards enlarged by the rebuilding of the south
end. The buildings are embellished in front and at the
end with columns of the Doric order, and are surmounted
by a magnificent colossal statue of Queen Victoria, exe-
Vol. I. — 377
cuted by Mr. Steel, and erected in 1844. They com-
prise a spacious gallery for the exhibitions of the Scottish
Academy of painting, sculpture, and the fine arts,
founded in 1 826 ; and apartments for the Royal Society
of Edinburgh, instituted in 1783 ; and the Board of
Trustees appointed by letters-patent in 1727, for the
encouragement of trade and manufactures in Scotland.
The Royal Scottish Society of Arts, under the patronage
of the Queen, was founded in the year 1821, and incor-
porated by royal charter in 1841 ; the Association for
the Promotion of the Fine Arts in Scotland was estab-
lished in 1S33 ; and the Art-Union of Scotland, which
is under the direct patronage of His Royal Highness
Prince Albert, in 1837. Among the other scientific and
literary institutions are, the Royal Medical Society,
already noticed ; the Harveian Society, founded in 1782;
the Royal Physical Society, instituted in 177 ^ and
chartered in 17S8; the Anatomical Society, established
in 1833; the Hunterian Medical Society; the Medico-
Chirurgical Society, founded in 182 1 ; and the Obstetrical
Society : the Scottish Society of Antiquaries, established
in 1780; the Astronomical Institution; the Philoso-
phical Association ; the Geological Society ; the Dialec-
tic Society, established in 1787; the Diagnostic Society,
in 1816 ; the Juridical Society, in 1773 ; the Scots' Law
Society, in 1815; the Speculative Society, in 1764; the
Theological Society, in 1776; and the Metaphysical and
the Phrenological Societies. The College Theological
Library was instituted in 169S ; the Edinburgh Subscrip-
tion Library, in 1794 ; and the Architectural Subscrip-
tion Library, in 1S32. There are, besides, the Select
Subscription, the New Town Subscription, and Mecha-
nics' libraries ; and public subscription reading-rooms.
The libraries of the Faculty of Advocates and the Writers
to the Signet have been described in a previous page.
The Assembly Rooms, in George-street, form an elegant
structure in the Roman style of architecture, having in
the principal front a stately projecting portico of four
columns, rising from a rusticated basement forming a
piazza, under which are the entrances, to the whole height
of the building, and supporting a triangular pediment.
The ball-room, which is ninety-two feet long, forty-two
feet w^ide, and forty feet high, is tastefully decorated, and
is approached by two staircases, which meet in a lofty
saloon in the middle of the building, which also gives
access to a spacious and very handsome Music Hall
erected at the back of, and immediately in connexion
with, the Assembly Rooms. The Theatre Royal, situated
near the end of the North bridge, was erected and
first opened in 1769.
Monuments.
On the summit of the highest eminence on the Calton
hill, is the monument to the memory of Lord Nelson,
completed in lS15,and forming aconspicuous object in the
view of the city both by sea and land. The structure con-
sists of a lofty cylindrical tower of several stages, rising
from the centre of a heptagonal building flanked at the
angles with projecting embattled turrets, to the height
of 100 feet, and surmounted by an embattled circular
turret, from which springs a flag-staff. Above the
entrance is the crest of Lord Nelson, with the stern of
the San Josef, in basso-relievo, beneath which is a
tablet with an appropriate inscription ; the building
3 C
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around the base is occupied as a tavern. From the
summit of the tower is a truly magnificent view, com-
prehending the German Ocean and the extensive and
interesting tract of country to the west. The monument
of the historian, David Hume, a massive circular tower,
is also situated on the Calton hill, in the cemetery over-
looking the old town.
The monument erected in 1S28 to the memory of
Lord Melville, in the centre of St. Andrew's-square,
is a fluted column, 136 feet in height, above the capital
of which is a colossal statue of his lordship, the whole
raised chiefly by subscription of gentlemen connected
with the navy, as a tribute of respect to his memory.
To the east of the square, in a recess in front of the
Royal Bank of Scotland, is a statue of the great Earl of
Hopetoun, leaning on a charger, and placed on a pe-
destal, erected in,lS35 in grateful remembrance of his
mihtai-y services. At the intersection of George-street
and Hanover- street is a colossal statue, in bronze, of
George IV., by Ghantrey, raised in 1832, in commemo-
ration of his majesty's visit ; and at the end of Frederick-
street, in a line with the former, is a similar bronze
statue of William Pitt, by the same artist.
The national Monument, of which the first stone
was laid by the Duke of Hamilton in 1822, by sanction
of the king, and which occupies a commanding emi-
nence on the Calton hill, was commenced by subscrip-
tion in commemoration of the Scottish naval and mili-
tary officers who fell in the battles consequent on the
French revolution. The design was intended to be a
perfect model of the Parthenon at Athens ; but, the
amount of the subscriptions having been all expended
in the erection of twelve magnificent columns raised
prior to the year 1S40, the works have since that time
been suspended. Within the area of the site marked
out for this monument, an exhibition of statuary and
sculpture was established by Mr. Robert Forrest in
1S30, which has been gradually increasing in interest
and variety, and forms a powerful attraction to persons
visiting the spot. On Calton hill are also the monu-
ments of Professor Playfair, near the Observatory, and
of Dugald Stewart, overlooking the Regent's bridge,
both structures of elegant design ; and upon a height
near the eastern end of the High School buildings, is
the monument recently erected in honour of the poet
Burns. This is a handsome circular structure, rising
from an octagonal base with numerous appropriate
inscriptions, and surrounded by Corinthian columns
supporting a highly-enriched entablature and cornice,
surmounted by an attic and a pedestal and figure :
within is a beautifully- sculptured statue of the poet by
Flaxman. The whole of the monument is elaborately
embellished with emblematical sculpture, in which the
lyre is predominant.
Opposite to the extremity of St. David-street, in Princes-
terrace, and finely situated in the gardens of the North
Loch, is the superb monument to Sir Walter Scott,
according to the design of Mr. Kemp, approved by the
committee for its erection, in 1840. This truly splendid
and elaborately-enriched structure, which has just been
completed, rises to the height of 180 feet, from a base
fifty-five feet square, in a series of gradually dimin-
ishing towers in the decorated English style. These
towers are strengthened by panelled buttresses, termi-
nating in crocketed pinnacles with flowered finials, and
378
which are connected by flying buttresses of scroll-work,
and have angular turrets adorned with canopied shrines,
and springing from pierced parapets. From the angles
of the principal tower, in which is enshrined a fine
statue of the poet, are boldly projecting turrets, of simi-
lar character but very much larger, connected with the
main building by lofty and sharply-pointed arches,
richly moulded, and crowned with ogee canopies of
feather-work. The roof of the tower is delicately
groined, and is supported by four piers of slender clus-
tered columns with flowered capitals, between which
are four spacious and graceful arches affording access
to the interior, to which is an ascent by flights of steps
from the base between the turrets that project from the
angles of the monument.
In the ravine of the Water of Leith, below Dean
bridge, a handsome Doric temple, consisting of columns
supporting a circular dome, and in which is a statue
of Hygeia, of colossal dimensions, placed on a pedestal,
has been erected over St. Bernard's well, a mineral
spring near the margin of the river, and forms an in-
teresting and pleasing feature in the scenery.
Lighting, &c.
The streets of the city are well lighted with gas from
extensive works in the North Back of the Canongate,
erected by a company of shareholders incorporated
under an act of parliament in 1818, with a capital of
£100,000, subscribed in £25 shares ; and the inhabit-
ants are supplied, though indifferently, with water by a
company incorporated in 1S19, with a capital of £253,000,
also in shares of £25 each. The water, previously to
the establishment of this company, was brought from
Comiston ; but, the supply being very inadequate to the
increased extent of the town, it is now conveyed from
more copious springs at Crawley and Glencross, about
eight miles distant, into capacious reservoirs, at the
Castle hill for the northern, and near Heriot's hospital
for the southern, districts, whence it is distributed by
pipes to the houses. The various works for this purpose
were completed at a cost of more than £200,000 ; and
a large compensation reservoir has also been constructed
in a valley among the Pentland hills, for the supply of
the different mills and factories in that district. The
quantity of water, however, being still insufficient, and
its quality inferior, the company are now engaged in
bringing an additional supply from the west side of the
hills ; and a new company, also, has been formed for
the purpose of procuring water from a distance of twelve
miles, to be conveyed along the line of the lately pro-
jected Caledonian railway. The markets, which are
spacious and well adapted for their object, are abun-
dantly furnished with all kinds of provisions, and every
variety of luxuries ; and, from the vicinity of the Forth,
fish of all sorts is plentiful, and of moderate price.
Coal of excellent quality is obtained in the surrounding
districts, and the Union canal and the railways afford
every facility for its conveyance.
Railways, and Canal.
The Edinburgh and Dalkeith Railway was constructed
under the sanction of acts of parliament passed in 1826,
1829, and 1834. It extends from the city to the South
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Esk, near Newbattle, a distance of eight miles and
a quarter, with branches to Leith, Dalkeith, and
Fisherrow, in all nearly fifteen miles ; and has been
open since July, 1831 : the present capital is £150,000.
The line is for the greater part level, and worked by
horses ; but there is an incline near the city of 1 in 30,
about 1160 yards long, worked by two low-pressure
condensing-engines ; and on the same incline is a tunnel
572 feet in length, with a semicircular stone arch of
twenty-feet span. About 100,000 tons of goods and
300,000 passengers are annually conveyed upon this
railway. The Duke of Buccleuch constructed the
branch to the town of Dalkeith at his own expense,
chiefly with the view of connecting his extensive coal-
fields on the south side of the Esk with Edinburgh :
his grace lets the branch to the company. Owing to a
contest in the session of parliament of 1S44, between
the proprietors and those of the North British railway,
the latter company agreed to purchase the line for
£113,000; and an act is about to be applied for, to
extend it to Hawick, and for power to use locomotive-
engines. The Edinburgh, Leith, and Granton Railway was
formed under an act- obtained in 1836. It commences
at the east end of Princes-street gardens, and proceeds
by a tunnel under St. Andrew's-street, passing beneath
the east side of St. Andrew's-square, and next under
Duke, Dublin, and Scotland streets, at the bottom of
which last street is the northern entrance to the tunnel ;
the railway thence continues in nearly a straight line
to Trinity pier, on the Firth of Forth. The whole
length to Trinity is 13,000 feet, or about two miles and
a half, and the length of the tunnel 1000 yards, its
width twenty-four feet, and its height seventeen. An
act was obtained in July, 1844, for the extension of
the railway to Leith and to Granton Pier, and these
branches, already commenced, will be completed early
in 1846, the main line connecting them with the Edin-
burgh and Glasgow and the North British railways :
the capital is now £173,400.
The Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway was established
under an act which received the royal assent on the 4th
July, 1S3S, and was amended by another act, passed in
July, 1S40. It commences at the Haymarket in Edin-
burgh, and terminates at George-square in Glasgow,
and is forty-six miles in length. There are two level
planes together exceeding seven miles, seven ascend-
ing, twenty-two miles long in the aggregate, and three
descending, about seventeen miles ; and the line attains
its summit level in the parish of Cumbernauld, about
twelve miles from Glasgow ; the gradients and curva-
tures are favourable, and almost entirely of the first
class. In the course of the line are five tunnels ; the
first, at Winchburgh, is 330 yards long ; the next, a
curved one, at Callendar, S30 ; and the other three,
which are on the Glasgow inclined plane, are 4/6, 292,
and 272 yards, respectively ; the width of each being
twenty- six feet, and the height twenty-two. There are
thirty-three bridges over, and thirty-one arches under,
the railway where it intersects turnpike and high roads ;
the former are generally semi-elliptical, twenty-eight
feet in span, and seventeen in height ; the latter are
mostly twenty feet in span. The principal viaducts are
those across the Almond and Avon rivers ; the one
being 720 yards in length, twenty-eight feet in width,
and fifty feet above the level of the water, supported by
thirty-six segmental arches of seventy-five feet span,
379
with piers of seven feet in thickness ; and the other,
over the Avon valley, consisting of twenty arches.
There is also the Redburn viaduct of eight arches. The
railway takes a western direction, by Kirkliston and
Linlithgow, to Falkirk, and then a south-west course
to Glasgow, passing to the south of, and nearly parallel
to, the Forth and Clyde canal, and crossing the Monk-
land and Kirkintilloch railway within a few miles of
its terminus. The work was commenced at the Almond
valley, in October, 183S, and the line was opened to the
public on the 21st February, 1S42, the gross expendi-
ture to the 31st July, 1844, being £1,649,1 15. In the
year terminating on the last-mentioned day, the reve-
nue amounted to £117,233; the working expenses to
£41,550 ; and the number of passengers conveyed was
666,266. By an act passed in 1S44, the company are
allowed to increase their capital stock to £1,406,250,
and their privilege of borrowing to £468,750, and are
empowered to carry the line to the North bridge of
Edinburgh, for which purpose the works have been
commenced and will be finished in 1846, forming a
junction with the North British railway.
The North British Railway has been sanctioned by an
act which received the royal assent in July, 1844, and
by which the capital stock of the company has been
fixed at £S00,000, with power to borrow £266,666.
The line commences at the North bridge in the city,
where it forms a junction with the Edinburgh and Glas-
gow railway, and terminates at the Castle hill of Ber-
wick-on-Tweed ; its length is fifty-nine miles, with a
branch to Haddington of four miles. The works, com-
menced in September 1844, are expected to be com-
pleted in 1847.
The Union Canal was projected in 1817, and, after
considerable opposition, was begun in ISIS by a joint-
stock company, and finished in 1S22, at an expense
amounting to nearly £400,000. It commences at Port-
Hopetoun Basin, at the south end of the Lothian-road,
in Edinburgh, and is carried through the parishes of
St. Cuthbert, Colinton, Currie, Ratho, and a part of
Kirkliston, in this county; those of Uphall, part of
Kirkliston, Dalmeny, Abercorn, and Linlithgow, in the
county of Linlithgow ; and Muiravonside, Polmont, and
Falkirk, in the county of Stirling. It there terminates,
joining the Forth and Clyde, or Glasgow, canal at Port-
Downie, near Falkirk, a distance of thirty-one and a
half miles. In its course, it is carried by extensive
aqueducts over the Water of Leith, the Almond, and
the Avon, and passes through Prospect-hill tunnel, cut
out of the solid rock for 696 yards ; preserving its level
to within a mile of its junction with the Forth and
Clyde canal, whence it falls 110 feet by a series of eleven
locks. The width of the canal at the surface is forty
feet ; at the bottom, twenty feet ; and its depth is five
feet. The aqueduct at Slateford consists of eight arches ;
its height is sixty-five feet, and its length 500 ; and that
over the Avon is still more extensive. On the banks
along the line are numerous villages, and it approaches
close to the royal burgh of Linlithgow.
Municipal Affairs.
The town appears, from a charter of David I. be-
stowing on the monks of Holyrood Abbey certain en-
dowments payable out of " his burgh of Edwinesburg,"
to have been constituted a royal burgh at least as early as
3 C2
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the reign of that monarch ; and at a very remote period
the city was one of the four principal burghs, the
commissioners of which, with the chamberlain of Scot-
land, constituted the court for superintending the
affairs of the royal burghs of the kingdom. Under
charters granted by the successors of David, confirming
to the inhabitants his grant of a large portion of the
forest lands in the immediate vicinity of the castle, the
citizens had various privileges, among which was a
license to trade, and to exact tolls and customs of all
merchandise and traffic within the burgh, to which
James III., by charter, added the liberty of appointing
a sheriff with extensive jurisdiction. Numerous addi-
tional immunities were conferred on the burgesses by
other kings, all of which were ratified and enlarged by
succeeding monarchs, and especially by James VI., who
granted to the provost, bailies, and council, the site of
the city and all its appendages, and the hereditary
offices of sheriff and coroner, with ample civil and
criminal jurisdiction within the burgh and Leith and
Newhaven. The provost was declared high-sheriff and
coroner, and the bailies conjointly and severally were
his deputy sheriffs and coroners ; and the whole of the
escheats, fines, and amercements in their jurisdiction
were constituted part of the common property of the
city. This, which was called the " Golden charter," was
confirmed by Charles I. : but many of the privileges,
being thought to derogate unreasonably from the pre-
rogative of the crown, were voluntarily surrendered by
the corporation in 1630, and a new charter, differing
but slightly from that of James VI., except in those
instances thought objectionable, was granted in 1636,
and continued to be the governing charter till the reign
of William IV.
The management of the municipal affairs is vested iu
four public bodies, namely, the town council, the police
board, the road trustees, and the county prison board.
The town council consists of thirty-three members, of
whom thirty-one are chosen by the parliamentary voters
qualified within the royalty; the remaining two, being
the dean of guild and the convener of the trades, are
elected respectively by the guild-brethren of the city
and the deacons of the incorporated trades. Out of
their own number, the whole council appoint a lord
provost, four bailies, and a treasurer ; and these officers,
with the dean of guild, constitute the magistracy. The
provost is dignified with the title of the Right Honour-
able, and in the city takes precedence, on public occa-
sions, of all the great officers of state and of the nobility,
walking on the right hand of the king or his commis-
sioner, and having a sword of state and a mace borne
before him. He is also admiral, and the bailies are
admirals-depute, over the city and liberties, and the
town, harbour, and road of Leith. The council are
superiors of the burgh of regality of Canongate, and of
the burghs of barony of Easter and Wester Fortsburgh ;
over which they appoint certain of their number as
baron-bailies, and also two burgesses of Canongate, and
two inhabitants of Portsburgh, as resident bailies. The
bailies of Canongate exercise the same legal jurisdiction
within the limits of their district as magistrates of royal
burghs ; but the bailies of Portsburgh perform only
the petty duties to which the bailies of all burghs of
barony are now restricted. The council used formerly
to appoint the magistrates of Leith ; but, since 1S33,
360
these have been elected by the town council of that place,
and the council of Edinburgh delegate to them annually
their jurisdiction of admiralty over the town and road
of Leith. The Merchant Company was incorporated,
by royal charter, in 1681, and ratified by act of parlia-
ment, in 1793; each of the members pays on admis-
sion a fee of £63, besides contributing to a widows'
fund, established in 1828. It has, however, never been
acknowledged by the town council as one of the city
corporations ; and its members, as such, have never
enjoyed any municipal privileges. The acknowledged
corporations, possessed of municipal privileges, are four-
teen in number, the surgeons, goldsmiths, skinners,
furriers, hammermen, wrights, masons, tailors, bakers,
fleshers, cordiners, websters, waulkers, and bonnet-
makers. The members of these incorporations possess
the exclusive right of exercising their respective profes-
sions and trades within the ancient royalty of the city ;
and formerly, their presidents, bearing the title of
deacons, were members of the town council. Their
privileges, however, being of little value, as the New
Town is entirely free from municipal restrictions of that
kind, the incorporations are rapidly dwindling away,
and most of them will probably soon be extinct. The
Police Board of the city consists of thirty-two commis-
sioners elected annually by the ratepayers, and of seven-
teen public officers, including the provost, the magis-
trates of the city and Canongate, and the sheriff of the
county and his substitutes ; it takes charge of the
watching, lighting, and cleansing of the town. The
County Prison Board consists of eighteen members
chosen by the town councils of Edinburgh, Leith, Mus-
selburgh, and Portobello, and of the magistrates of the
shire ; and has the care of all the prisons, bridewells,
and other places of confinement.
The magistrates, with the powers of sheriff, preside
weekly in a bailie court, of which the jurisdiction ex-
tends over the ancient and extended royalty, and the
barony of Portsburgh ; they also sit in the police
court, chiefly for the trial of petty offences, the more
serious causes being remitted for trial to the sheriff or
high court of justiciary. There is a court called the
Ten Merks court, for civil actions not exceeding that
sum, in which a summary process is observed ; and a
court for the recovery of debts not exceeding £3. 6. S.
is also held by the magistrates, under the provisions of
an act of the 40th of George III. A dean-of- guild court
is held weekly before the dean, assisted by a council
annually nominated by the town council ; and the juris-
diction of the court of admiralty extends over the whole
of the county of the city.
The County Hall, situated in the Lawnmarket, is an
elegant structure in the Grecian style of architecture,
with a stately portico of four fluted Ionic columns
rising to the roof of the building, and supporting a
triangular pediment ; and the front, on each side of the
portico, to which is an ascent by a flight of steps, is
embellished with pilasters of the same order. The in-
terior comprises a spacious hall for the county meetings,
fifty-six feet long, twenty-six feet wide, and twenty-six
feet high ; a court-room forty-three feet in length, and
twenty-nine feet wide, with a gallery at the south end ;
apartments for the accommodation of the judges, ma-
gistrates, witnesses, and others attending the sessions;
and various offices. The Old Tolbooth, in which the
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sessions of parliament, the meetings of the College of
Justice, and the various courts were formerly held ; in
which the public business of the corporation was trans-
acted, and the civic banquets and other festivities took
place ; and in which, also, were the city and county
gaols and the debtors' prison, was taken down in 1317,
and a new Gaol erected on the Calton hill, at a cost of
nearly £30,000. Of this sum, £10,000 were granted
by government, £S000 from the city, £5000 from the
county, and the remainder raised by assessment. The
Bridewell, also on the Calton hill, nearly behind the
gaol, was erected, in 1796, after a design by Mr. Robert
Adam, at an expense of £11,794, raised by subscrip-
tion and assessments, aided by a grant from govern-
ment. The buildings, consisting of a semicircular range,
in front of which is the governor's house, are five stories
in height, and comprise fifty-two working-rooms and
144 sleeping-cells, of which some are appropriated
to prisoners sentenced to solitary confinement. The
Canongate Tolbooth, an ancient structure, and, since the
erection of the new gaol, appropriated exclusively to
prisoners for debt, includes a common room, eight
sleeping apartments, and rooms for the governor : the
front towards the street has a low tower with angular
turrets, between which is a clock, and is surmounted by
a small spire.
History and Government of the University.
The University was origi-
nally founded by the town
council, to whom Mary,
Queen of Scots, granted for
that purpose the sites and re-
mains of the several ancient
religious houses within the
city, together with the lands
and revenues in various parts
of the kingdom. Thisgiftwas
confirmed by James VI., who
also bestowed a license to
'"• erect schools and houses for
the students within the precincts of the monastic de-
mesnes, and to receive benefactions and bequests of
land and other property for its endowment, as well as
to elect professors, with ample powers to remove them
as they might think fit, all which grants, together with
others by the same monarch, were subsequently ratified
by act of parliament. The town council, having like-
wise received a bequest of S000 merks from Robert
Reid, Bishop of Orkney, for the purpose of founding a
college in the city, began, in 1581, to erect buildings
appropriate for an institution of the kind in the southern
district of the town, within the precincts of the ancient
college of Kirk of Field. In 15S3, they were so far
advanced that they chose Robert Rollock, formerly of
St. Salvator's college in the university of St. Andrew's,
as professor in their college of Edinburgh, and his
talents and popularity soon attracted a considerable
number of students. After the appointment of other
professors, the town council elected Mr. Rollock prin-
cipal, in 15S6 : the institution steadily increasing in
reputation and importance, additional professorships
were created, and the establishment has since that time
been rapidly advancing in prosperity. James VI. sub-
381
sequently granted certain church lands and tithes in
the counties of Lothian and Fife for its further endow-
ment ; and for its due regulation the town council
founded an annual visitation by a committee of sixteen
of their own body, with five of the ministers of Edin-
burgh, and three advocates, who made their first inspec-
tion in 1614. The town council continued these annual
visitations till 1640, when they appointed a rector of
the university to superintend the management.
During the parliamentary war in the reign of Charles I.,
the progress of the university met with no interruption ;
and Cromwell, in his protectorate, endowed it with an
annuity of £200. After the Restoration, many of the
students were strongly imbued with the principles of
the Covenant, and, on the visit of the Duke of York to
Edinburgh, made preparations for a public procession
for the purpose of displaying their inveterate abhor-
rence of the Roman Catholic religion, by burning an
effigy of the pope. To prevent this outrage to the feel-
ings of the Duke of York, afterwards James II., the
magistrates dispatched a party of soldiers, when a
violent tumult took place between the military and the
students, the latter aided by the populace ; seven of the
rioters were apprehended and lodged in prison, but
after a few days were liberated. With the view of
suppressing these feelings, Charles II. appointed a visi-
tation to be held in the university by the Bishop of
Edinburgh, the lord provost and magistrates of the
city, and others, enjoining them to make their report in
16S3 ; but the result is not known. Not long before
the Revolution in 1688, another visitation was held for
the same purpose, when a sentence of deprivation was
passed upon the principal and one of the professors ;
but since the accession of William III., the internal
policy of the university has been free from all similar
interference. In 1768, a memorial was presented for
rebuilding the university ; but the breaking out of the
American war suspended all further proceedings towards
that, undertaking. After the peace, however, it was
again proposed, in 17S6 ; and the magistrates having
raised a subscription, a plan was designed by Robert
Adam for rebuilding it upon the same site, and the
first stone of the present structure was laid with
great ceremony by Lord Napier, grand master mason
of Scotland, on the 16th of November, 1789-
The affairs of the university are under the superin-
tendence of the town council, by whom the principal
and professors are chiefly appointed, and of a senatus
academicus, assisted by a secretary, librarian, curator
of the museum, and other officers. Of the numerous
professorships founded at various periods, that of
Humanity, established in 1597, is in the patronage of
the Lords of Session, the Town Council, the Faculty of
Advocates, and the Society of Writers to the Signet.
The Town Council alone present to the professorships of
Greek, founded in 1/0S ; logic and metaphysics, in the
same year; mathematics, in 1674; moral philosophy
and political economy, in 1/0S ; natural philosophy, iu
1708 ; divinity, in I 620 ; oriental languages, in 1642;
theory of physic, in 1685 ; dietetics, materia medica, and
pharmacy, in 1768 ; chemistry and chemical pharmacy,
in 1713; surgery, in 1831; practice of physic, in 16S5;
anatomy and physiology, in 1/05 ; general pathology,
in 1831 ; midwifery and diseases of women and children,
in 1726; aad clinical medicine, in 1741. The profes-
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sorships of practical astronomy, founded in 1786 ; rhe-
toric and belles-lettres, in 1762 ; divinity and ecclesias-
tical history, in 1695; public law, in 1*07; medical
jurisprudence and police, in 1807; clinical surgery, in
1803; military surgery, in 1806; and natural history,
in 1767, are all in the gift of the Crown. The profes-
sorship of universal history, founded in 1719, is in the
patronage of the Faculty of Advocates and the Town
Council; that of agriculture, established in 1790, in the
patronage of the Lords of Session, the Barons of
the Exchequer, the Town Council, and the Senatus
Academicus ; music, in 1839, is presented to by the
Principal and Professors. Those of civil law, founded
in 1710, and of the law of Scotland, in 1719, are in the
gift of the Faculty of Advocates and the Town Council ;
that of conveyancing, in 1825, is in the patronage of
the Town Council, Deputy Keeper, and Society of
Writers to the Signet ; and that of botany, in 1 676, is
in the patronage of the Crown and the Town Council.
Attached to the university are eighty bursaries, varying
in value from £5 to £100 per annum, of which last
sum there are three ; six are of £30 ; ten of £20 ; and
their aggregate value is £1172 per annum. The winter
session commences on the first Tuesday in November,
and closes at the end of April ■ and the summer session
on the first Monday of May, and terminates at the end
of July : the number who graduated in medicine in
1806 was 37; in 1816, 76; in 1826, 118; in 1S36,
123; and in 1844, 66.
Buildings of the University.
The rebuilding of the university, already referred to,
was greatly retarded by want of adequate funds, and
though commenced in 1789, little more than the east
front and part of the north-west range was raised till the
year 1815, when government granted an annual sum of
£10,000, and a committee was appointed for its com-
pletion, after a design by Mr. Playfair. The present
buildings, in a mixed style of architecture, form a qua-
drangle 356 feet in length, and 258 in breadth. The
east front, of which the line is broken by slight projec-
tions in the centre and at each extremity, is embellished
with a stately portico of two duplicated Doric columns,
formed each of one entire block, rising to the height of
twenty-six feet, and supporting an entablature and
balustrade, above which is a large tablet with an appro-
priate inscription. The buildings around the area of
the quadrangle are of various height : flights of steps
lead to the hall of the senatus academicus, the library,
the museum, and the several class-rooms, which are all
of spacious dimensions, and many of them elegantly
decorated.
The Library is 187 feet in length, and fifty feet in
width ; the roof, richly embellished in stucco, is sus-
tained by noble ranges of pillars, behind which are
placed the recesses for the reception of the books. The
collection, now containing more than 100,000 volumes,
originated in a bequest of Mr. Clement Little, advocate,
who left his library, for the use of the citizens, to the
care of the town council, by whom it was deposited in
the university. It has been gradually augmented by
purchases, and donations ; by the presentation of free
copies of all works printed in Great Britain ; and by
the payment of £5 towards its increase by each of the
382
professors on his appointment, and a sovereign by each
of the students on his matriculation. In the library are
also some valuable paintings bequeathed to the univer-
sity by Sir James Erskine, of Torry, Bart., various por-
traits of continental and other reformers, and an
interesting collection of ancient sculptures and other
antiquities. The Museum occupies a lower and an upper
room, each ninety feet long and thirty feet wide. The
lower room contains principally specimens of the larger
quadrupeds and other animals ; the upper room, which
is elegantly fitted up, and lighted from the roof, com-
prises a beautiful collection of more than 3000 British
and foreign birds, the whole carefully arranged, and
including a large number of stuffed birds recently pur-
chased by the university from Mr. Dufresne, of Paris.
On the tables are numerous glass-cases containing shells,
insects, and other natural curiosities of a small size;
and in the galleries and less extensive apartments com-
municating with the principal room, are various speci-
mens of minerals, scientifically arranged by Professor
Jameson, who, on his appointment to the chair of
natural history, presented to the university his own
private collection, to which an addition was made by
the late Dr. Thompson, of Naples. The Anatomical
Museum contains a very large collection of valuable spe-
cimens and anatomical preparations, the greater number
presented by the grandfather and father of the present
Dr. Monro.
New College.
This institution, founded in 1843, originated in a
meeting of the General Assembly, held in St. Andrew's
church, Edinburgh, on the 18th of May, and of which
the result was a disruption of numerous ministers from
that body, who adjourning with their adherents to
Canonmills, formed themselves into a " General As-
sembly of the Free Church of Scotland," and elected
the Rev. Thomas Chalmers, D.D., for their moderator.
Though principally intended by the new assembly, its
founders, for the education of such students as hold
the principles of the Free Church, the college is not
confined to any particular denomination, and no class
of the community is by the statutes excluded from par-
ticipating in the instruction it is calculated to afford.
Its primary object was a theological education ; but it
is also designed as an institution for general studies,
and should the existing university tests continue to be
enforced, it will ultimately comprehend a complete esta-
blishment of literary and philosophical, as well as
theological, professorships. The institution, which was
opened on Tuesday, the 31st of October, is under the
direction of a principal, the Rev. Dr. Chalmers, who is
also primarius professor of divinity, a professor of theo-
logy, a professor of divinity and ecclesiastical history,
a professor of Hebrew and the oriental languages, a
professor of moral philosophy, and a classical tutor.
The funds necessary for the maintenance of the col-
lege are derived solely from the contributions of pri-
vate individuals, and the fees paid by the students,
which do not exceed £2. 2. to each of the classes ; the
number of students during the first year was 212, and
in the year 1844 the attendance was nearly the same.
The business of the institution is at present conducted
in a house near the middle of George-street, which was
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previously a private dwelling, and is very inadequate
for the purpose ; but it is intended to erect a building
of such magnitude and architectural appearance as may
be fully consistent with the requirements of the college
and the character of the town. For this purpose, an
eligible site has been purchased at the extremity of the
Earthen Mound, and designs have been furnished for an
appropriate structure, for the erection of which a sum
exceeding £20,000 has been already subscribed by twenty
individuals alone.
High School, and Academy.
The High School of Edinburgh was originally founded
as a public grammar school, by the town council, in
151S; and in 15*8, being found inadequate to the
wants of the city, it was refounded on a more extended
scale. From the progressive increase of the number
of pupils, the ancient house in which it was primarily
established was taken down in 1777, and a more ex-
tensive building erected on its site, where it continued
to flourish till 1S29, when, a more eligible situation
having been selected in 1825, the school was removed
to the present spacious and elegant structure erected
for its use on the Calton hill. It is under the super-
intendence of a rector and four classical masters, and
teachers of the French language, writing, arithmetic,
and the mathematics, all of whom are appointed by the
magistrates and town council. The fees in the rector's
class are £1. 5. per quarter, and in each of the four
masters' classes £1 ; for the French and mathematical
classes, 10s. 6d. each ; and in the writing and arith-
metical classes, 7s. 6d. each. The average number of
pupils is about 500, to the most successful of whom are
awarded prizes at the public examinations, which take
place annually, in August, before the magistrates and
council, the clergy of the city, and the professors of the
university.
The building, erected after a design by Mr. Hamilton,
at a cost of £30,000, partly raised by subscription, is a
stately structure of freestone, in the Grecian style of
architecture, 270 feet in length, and embellished in the
centre of the principal front with a small portico of six-
Doric columns, supporting an entablature and cornice
surmounted by a triangular pediment, and forming the
chief entrance, to which is an ascent, by a flight of steps.
On each side of the portico is an open corridor of
twelve Doric columns, with entablature and cornice of
corresponding character, connecting the centre with the
wings. The interior comprises a noble entrance-hall,
seventy-five feet in length, and forty-three feet wide,
with the various class-rooms for the rector, and the
four classical masters, of which the rector's is thirty-
eight feet square, and each of the other four thirty-eight
feet long, and twenty feet wide ; to each of the class-
rooms are attached two smaller apartments, and every
arrangement for affording ample facility to the purposes
of the institution has been studiously provided. At
the entrance into the court-yard are two lodges, of two
stories in height, in one of which are the class-rooms
for the writing and mathematical masters, forty-eight
and thirty-six feet in length respectively, and both
eighteen feet wide ; the other lodge is appropriated as a
house for the janitor ; and attached to the school are
about two acres of play-ground.
383
The Edinburgh Academy, established in 1824, on a
plan similar to that of the High School, and situated in
Henderson-row, to the north of the New Town, is
under the superintendence of a board of fifteen directors,
of whom three are annually elected from the body of
subscribers ; it is conducted by a rector and four clas-
sical masters, with other teachers, differing in no
material particular from the High School, except in the
amount of fees. The building, erected at a cost of
£14,000, by shareholders, is a spacious and elegant
structure in the Grecian style, after a design by Mr.
Burn, containing the requisite class-rooms, halls, and
other arrangements.
Parishes, and Ecclesiastical Arrangements.
The see of Edinburgh, originally founded by Charles I.
in 1633, and to which the ancient collegiate church
of St. Giles was appropriated as the cathedral, con-
tinued till the Revolution, when the city contained
only six parishes ; it is now the seat of the General
Assembly of the Church of Scotland and of the pres-
bytery of Edinburgh, and comprises seventeen civil
parishes, besides which there were until recently twelve
quoad sacra or ecclesiastical parishes. The civil parishes,
with the exception only of Canongate and St. Cuth-
bert's, which are under the patronage of the Crown, are
all in the gift of the Town Council, by whom a stipend
of £54S is paid to each of the ministers ; the ecclesias-
tical parishes were in the patronage of various bodies,
and the stipends, differing in amount, were derived from
seat-rents and other sources.
The parish of the High Church is wholly within
the city, and contains a population of 2776, under the
pastoral care of two ministers. The church is a portion
of the cathedral of St. Giles, of which the interior was
partitioned, at the Reformation, for four separate con-
gregations, and has been subsequently divided into three
churches. There are 1399 sittings for this parish,
including arrangements for the lord provost, magis-
trates, and council of the city, the judges of the High
Court of Session, and the members of the Kirk Session.
The interior of this once splendid edifice was richly
embellished, and contained forty altars to different
saints, numerous relics, sumptuous vestments, and
valuable vessels of gold and silver, all of which were
removed or destroyed at the Reformation. The church
was externally rebuilt in the year 1S30, after a design
by Mr. Burn, architect, and is a stately structure in
the English style of architecture, with a lofty central
tower surmounted by a small spire connected with
the battlements by flying buttresses, uniting iu the
form of an imperial crown, and rising to the height of
161 feet from the base. The south aisle was formerly
fitted up for the meetings of the General Assembly,
but, being found inconvenient for that purpose, the
meetings have been discontinued ; and it is now occu-
pied as one of the city churches. There were till lately
several ancient monuments, among which were those of
the Regent Murray, the Marquess of Montrose, and one
erroneously supposed to be that of Napier, of Merchiston.
The parish also contains a preaching station, at which a
missionary, who has a salary of £50, raised by subscrip-
tion, officiates every Sunday ; an episcopal chapel,
dedicated to St. Paul ; a Free church ; and a place of
EDIN
ED IN
worship in Carrubbers Close, for a congregation as-
suming no particular denomination.
The parish of the Old Church is of very limited
extent, and contains a population of 2939 ; the church,
a portion of the collegiate church of St. Giles, was
taken down in 1S30, and has not been rebuilt. The
congregation assembled for public worship in the rooms
belonging to the High School on Calton hill till 1335 ;
but the south aisle of St. Giles' is now appropriated for
them. There is also a preaching station, in which ser-
vice is performed twice every Sunday, at the expense
of the minister of the parish.
The Tolbooth parish, so called from the proximity
of its former church to the ancient Tolbooth, is wholly
within the city, and contains a population of 2216; the
congregation now assemble in the hall recently erected,
near the Castle hill, for the meetings of the General
Assembly, which was intended also to serve as one of
the city churches, and has consequently been assigned
to this parish. It was erected at a cost of upwards
of £16,000, jointly defrayed by the government and the
town council, and is a large building in the English
style, with a massive tower and spire, rising 240 feet in
height, and forming one of the most conspicuous objects
in Edinburgh : besides the spacious hall or church, it
contains apartments for the officers, committees, and the
records of the Assembly. There are places of worship
for Wesleyans, and members of the Free Church.
The parish of Trinity College is entirely a town
parish, containing a population of 2615. The church,
originally founded by Mary of Gueldres, queen of
James II., for a provost, eight prebendaries, two cho-
risters, and a sacristan, is a handsome structure in the
later English style, of which only the choir and tran-
septs were completed ; it underwent considerable altera-
tions in 1820, and contains 797 sittings. In a portion
of the building the remains of the queen are supposed to
have been interred. A chapel in connexion with the
Established Church, to which a district containing
816 persons was for a short time annexed, was founded
in 17S5 by Lady Glenorchy, who endowed it for two
ministers, the first having a stipend of £400, and the
second one of £200, paid by the Trustees, the patrons.
The chapel, which was taken down by the North
British Railway Company in the early part of the year
1845, was a neat plain structure, containing 1514 sit-
tings, of which 104 were free; and attached to it
was a school for 120 poor children, under the direction
of the trustees. There is a place of worship for
Independents.
The parish of the New North Church, wholly within
the ancient royalty, has a population of 2815. A por-
tion of the cathedral of St. Giles was early appro-
priated as a church for this parish ; but, from the
alteration of that building, the congregation afterwards
assembled in a place of worship rented for their use by
the town council, and containing 1233 sittings, till, in a
recent year, a part of St. Giles' was again allotted to
them. There is also a preaching station in the Lawn-
market, in which divine service is performed every Sun-
day by a licentiate of the Establishment ; and a place of
worship has been erected in connexion with the Free
Church.
The parish of the Tron Church is wholly within the
city, and contains a population of 2498, under the care
3S4
of two ministers. The church, properly Christ Church,
though, from its proximity to the public weigh-house,
called the Tron Church, is a spacious and handsome
structure in a mixed style, commenced in 1637, and
completed in 1673; it had formerly a spire of wood,
which was destroyed by an accidental fire in 1824, and
replaced by a lofty square tower crowned with an open
balustrade ornamented by pinnacles at the angles, and
surmounted with a turret of smaller dimensions having
a pyramidal roof, the whole erected by the town council
in 1828. The interior, which contains S32 sittings, is
well arranged, and embellished with a high roof of richly-
carved oak. There is also a hall in which divine service
is performed two or three times during the week by a
licentiate of the Establishment ; and the parish con-
tains places of worship for members of the Free
Church, United Secession, Scottish Baptists, and Original
Burghers.
The parish of the Old Grey Friars, formed in 1722,
is wholly within the city, and contains a population of
2643. The church, erected by the town council in 1612,
on ground which formerly belonged to the ancient mo-
nastery of the Grey Friars, and was given by Queen
Mary to the magistrates for a cemetery, was, previously
to the late fire, a handsome structure in the later English
style, containing 1061 sittings. The tower, which had
been appropriated as the city magazine, was destroyed
in 1718, by an explosion that also greatly damaged the
church ; and instead of rebuilding the tower, the magis-
trates erected on its site the church of the New Grey
Friars' parish, separated from the former only by a par-
tition wall. In the churchyard are interred many per-
sons of distinction, including George Buchanan, Sir
George Mackenzie of Rosehaugh, Colin Maclaurin, Allan
Ramsay, and Principal Robertson. There is a preaching
station at the Magdalene chapel, in the Cowgate, where
divine service is performed twice every Sunday by the
assistant minister. The parish also comprises places of
worship for members of the Free Church, Scottish Bap-
tists, Bereans, and Independents.
The parish of the New Grety Friars has a population
of 3207. The church, erected in 1721, adjoining that of
the Old Grey Friars, and repaired and reseated in ISIS,
at an expense of £1518, by the town council, was a neat
structure containing 1302 sittings; it was, however,
together with the church of the Old Grey Friars, acci-
dentally destroyed by fire on Sunday morning, January
19th, 1S45. The flames were first discovered at about
half-past nine o'clock : by half-past ten the Old Grey
Friars' church had almost wholly fallen a prey to the de-
vouring element, and shortly afterwards the flames seized
upon the roof of the New Grey Friars, which edifice, not-
withstanding the greatest exertions of the firemen, shared
the fate of the other church. This fire was one of the
most appalling that have happened in Edinburgh since
the year 1824 : the walls were almost the only parts of
the churches left standing ; the scene presented after the
fire was one of the utmost desolation, and had the build-
ing not been detached, the result would have been still
more lamentable. Service is performed at the Old Gaelic
chapel, twice every Sunday, by a missionary appointed
by the Kirk Session ; and there is a place of worship for
a congregation of the United Christian churches.
The parish of St. Andrew, separated from that of St.
Cuthbert, by act of parliament, in 1785, contains apopu-
E D I N
E D I N
lation of 4974, under the pastoral superintendence of two
ministers. The church, situated on the north side of
George-street, was erected in 1785, at a cost of £7000,
by the town council ; it is a handsome structure in the
Grecian style, with a stately portico of four Corinthian
columns, and a lofty and graceful spire rising to the height
of 168 feet from the base ; the interior is well arranged,
and contains 1053 sittings. The episcopal chapel, dedi-
cated to St. George, was erected in 1794, at an expense of
£3000 ; it is an elegant structure, partly in the later
English, and partly in other styles, after a design by
Mr. Robert Adam, and contains 642 sittings, of which
fifty are free. There are places of worship for members of
the Free Church, United Secession, Baptists, Indepen-
dent Baptists, Wesleyans, and the followers of Mr.
Mc Lean, who assume no distinctive denomination, and
a Roman Catholic chapel.
The parish of St. George was separated from that of
St. Andrew by the town council and presbytery, under
an act of parliament in 1S14 j it is partly a rural parish,
and is about a mile and a half in length, and half a mile
in breadth, containing a population of 8075. The church,
which is situated on the west side of Charlotte-square,
was erected by the town council in 1S14, at an expense
of £33,000, and is a spacious structure in the Roman
style, with a central portico, and a square tower crowned
with a lofty dome surmounted by a cupola and cross at
an elevation of 160 feet from the base; the interior is
chastely decorated, and contains 16S7 sittings. A chapel
of ease was erected in Young-street at an expense of
£700, raised by subscription, and divine service is per-
formed three times every Sunday by a missionary minis-
ter, who receives a stipend of £80 from the Kirk Session :
the chapel, which contained only 347 sittings, was lately
enlarged for a congregation of 1000 persons, for which
purpose £2000 were given by a single benefactor. There
are places of worship for Baptists and members of the
Free Church.
The parish of Lady Yester's church is wholly a
town parish, comprising about one-fourth of a square
mile, and containing a population of 2223. The church
was originally built in 1647, and rebuilt in 1805 by the
town council, to whom Margaret Kerr, Lady Yester,
gave 10,000 merks for its erection, and 5000 merks
towards its endowment. It is a neat structure with cir-
cular gables and projecting turrets resting on corbels,
and terminating in slender spires ; it is situated nearly
in the centre of the parish, and contains 1212 sittings,
including 160 appropriated to the members of the uni-
versity, which is within the parish. There is a place of
worship for Original Seceders.
The parish of St. Mary was separated from that of
St. Andrew by the authority of the town council and
the presbytery of Edinburgh in 1S24; it is wholly a
town parish, containing a population of 6724. The church,
situated in the centre of Bellevue-crescent, on the eastern
boundary of the parish, was erected by the council in
1S24, at an expense of £13,000; it is in the Grecian
style, with a portico of Corinthian columns, and a square
tower surmounted by a circular cupola crowned with a
dome, and contains 1646 sittings. The episcopal chapel
dedicated to St. Paul, at the eastern extremity of York-
place, was erected in 181S, at a cost of £13,533, raised
by subscription ; it is a handsome structure after a design
by Mr. Archibald Elliott, in the later English style
Vol. I. — 385
of architecture, 123 feet in length, and seventy-three feet
in breadth, with lofty embattled turrets at each extre-
mity. The walls of the aisles are strengthened with
enriched buttresses between the windows, terminating
in crocheted pinnacles, and a similar range is continued
in the clerestory of the nave ; the east window is of spa-
cious dimensions, and embellished with stained glass and
with delicate tracery, and above the west entrance is a
large window of the same character. Two ministers are
attached to the chapel, each of whom has a stipend of
£300. There are places of worship for members of the
Free Church, Independents, and Glassites.
The parish of St. Stephen was separated from the
several adjoining parishes by the presbytery and the
town council, under an act of parliament in 1S28; it
is wholly a town parish, and comprises a population of
6849. The church was erected in 1S28, at an expense
of £25,000 ; it is an elegant structure, with a lofty square
embattled tower. There is a place of worship for mem-
bers of the Free Church.
The parish of the Canongate is about a mile and a
half in length, and nearly four-fifths of a mile in breadth,
comprising a considerable rural district, and containing a
population of 9944, under the pastoral superintendence of
two ministers, of whom each has a stipend of £240 ; the
minister of the first charge is appointed by the Crown,
and has a manse, and the minister of the second charge,
who is chosen by the Heritors and Kirk Session, has an
allowance of £40 in lieu of a manse. The church was
erected in 1683, by the town council, at a cost of
£2400, derived partly from a bequest by Mr. Thomas
Moodie, which had been suffered to accumulate ; and
was thoroughly repaired and new seated in 1S19, at an
expense of £2000. It is a plain cruciform structure
of irregular style, with a portico of four columns having
an entablature and cornice surmounted by a triangular
pediment ; the interior is well arranged, and contains
1295 sittings. In the churchyard are the tombs of
Provost Drummond and the poet Ferguson; and Adam
Smith and Dugald Stewart are also interred here. There
is a place of worship for a congregation of members of
the Free Church.
The parish of St. Cuthbert, which was until recently
subdivided into several ecclesiastical districts, is of great
extent, and originally included the whole of the city and
the burgh of Canongate ; it is about five miles in length,
and three miles and a half in breadth, comprising an
extensive rural district, and containing a population of
71,908, under the pastoral superintendence of two
ministers appointed by the Crown. The ministers have
each a stipend of £402. 14. ; the one has also a manse,
and the other an allowance of £60 in lieu ; and the
glebe lands, which are equally divided between them,
produce to each an income of £245. The church, situ-
ated at the western extremity of Princes-street, and
rebuilt in 1760, at a cost of £4321, is a spacious and
handsome structure, with a lofty square embattled
tower, surmounted by a well-proportioned spire ; the
interior is neatly fitted up, and contains 2400 sittings.
The chapel of ease in Gardner's-crescent was purchased
by the Kirk Session in 1831, together with the ground
attached to it, for £2500 ; it contains 1300 sittings.
There is a handsome church at Morningside ; and other
churches have been erected in the parish of St. Cuth-
bert, as noticed in a succeeding column. The episcopal
3 D
ED I N
ED I N
chapel dedicated to St. James was built in 1820, at an
expense of £4000, raised by subscription ; it is a hand-
some edifice, and contains S50 sittings, of which 100 are
free : the minister derives a stipend of £500, chiefly from
the seat-rents. The episcopal chapel dedicated to St.
John was erected in 1817, at a cost of £16,000, also
raised by subscription and donations ; it is in the later
English style of architecture, with a square embattled
tower crowned by minarets that terminate in crocketed
finials, and having in the faces double belfry windows,
enriched with canopies. The walls of the aisles are
strengthened by panelled buttresses, surmounted with
a pierced parapet, and a similar arrangement is con-
tinued in the clerestory of the nave ; the west entrance
is under a deeply-recessed archway, above which is a
spacious window of elegant design. The nave is sepa-
rated from the aisles by fine clustered columns, which
support the roof; and is lighted by a noble range of
clerestory windows, and at the east end by a window of
six lights, thirty feet high, divided by transoms into
three compartments, of which the upper is embellished
with a rich Catherine wheel, and the others with stained
glass. The roof of the nave and aisles is delicately
groined, and the whole of the interior of the edifice is
beautifully arranged. The minister has a stipend of
£550, arising from seat-rents, out of which he pays a
curate ; and the chapel contains 82 1 sittings. There
are also places of worship in the parish for members of
the Free Church, United Secession, and Relief, for
Reformed Presbyterians, Original Seceders, the Society
of Friends, Baptists, Wesleyans, Independents, Jews,
and Unitarians ; an Episcopalian chapel, dedicated to
St. Peter, and containing 420 sittings, two Roman
Catholic chapels, and a convent established at White-
house in 1836, and dedicated to St. Margaret.
The parish of Greenside was recently divided from
St. Andrew's, and erected into an independent parish ;
it is in the northern part of the city, in the direction of
Leith Walk, and contains 3636 persons. The parish of
St. John is also of very recent formation, and consists
of part of the old parishes of the New Grey Friars, Old
Grey Friars, and New North Church ; it has a population
of 2140, and lies in the immediate vicinity of the castle.
Besides the churches of these two parishes, there is a
place of worship for members of the Free Church.
Former Quoad Sacra Parishes.
The parish of New Street contained a population of
1932, and was separated from the parish of the Canon-
gate by act of the General Assembly in 1834; it was
of small extent, and wholly within the burgh. The
church was originally erected as a chapel of ease, at a
cost, including the site, of £2900 ; it is a neat struc-
ture, and has 1150 sittings. The parish of Leith Wynd,
containing a population of 1868, was separated also
from Canongate by the Assembly in 1 834 : the church,
originally built as a chapel of ease, in 1792, is ill adapted
to the use of the congregation ; it contains 1 094 sit-
tings. Buccleuch, separated from the parish of St. Cuth-
bert, was one mile and a half in length, and about half
a mile in breadth, and contained 3168 persons; the
church, built in 1755, by subscription, and repaired in
1S09, at an expense of £1300, is a neat structure con-
taining 1374 sittings. St. Bernard's was about a mile
386
and a half in length, and three-quarters of a mile in
breadth, and had a population of 4768 ; the church,
erected in 1822, at a cost of £4200, contains 1309 sit-
tings. The parish of Roxburgh was wholly a town
parish, and comprised an area of about one-fourth of a
square mile, having a population of 3683 : the church
was built in 1809, at an expense of £2960, as a place of
worship for a Relief Congregation, and was purchased
in 1832 as a chapel of ease ; it contains 830 sittings.
The parish of Newington, separated, like the three pre-
ceding, from the parish of St. Cuthbert, was about three-
quarters of a mile in length, and one-quarter of a mile
in breadth, and contained 3310 persons; the church,
erected by the Kirk Session in 1823, at an expense of
£6372, contains 1623 sittings, of which number seventy-
four are free. The Gaelic church in the parish of the
Old Grey Friars was, by act of the General Assembly,
in 1834, appropriated to the whole of the Highland
population of Edinburgh, Leith, and suburbs, over
whom the minister was invested with the pastoral
superintendence. The edifice, originally built in 1809,
by subscription, was purchased from the subscribers by
the Society for the Propagation of Christian Knowledge,
in 1815, at a cost of £3000 ; it is a neat structure, and
contains 1166 sittings, of which forty are free. The
parishes of Dean, Momingside, and St. Paul, were sepa-
rated from the parish of St. Cuthbert, and contained
respectively 2262, 1795, and 2874 inhabitants : the
church of Dean has 1030 sittings, including thirty free.
The parish of St. Luke was separated from that of St.
George, and had a population of 2546 : its church has
been already referred to as a chapel of ease in Young-
street, in the preceding page.
Heriot's Hospital.
Heriot's Hospital was founded in 1624, by George
Heriot, a native of Edinburgh, who, being appointed
goldsmith and jeweller to James VI., accompanied that
monarch to London, on his accession to the throne of
England. He died in 1624, and bequeathed the residue
of his property, which realized £23,625, to the city
ministers, magistrates, and town council, in trust for the
erection and endowment of an hospital for the mainte-
nance and education of as many poor boys, sons of
freemen, as the funds would allow. The building, of
which the first stone was laid in 1628, was, from the
frequent interruption arising from intestine commotions,
not finished till 1650, when it was seized by Cromwell
after the sanguinary battle of Dunbar ; it was, however,
restored by General Monk, on his being provided with
other accommodation for his soldiers, he having kept
possession of it for eight years ; and in 1659 was opened
for the reception of thirty boys. Since that period, the
annual revenue of the hospital has increased from £1966
to £15,412; and there are at present 180 boys in the
establishment, who are maintained, and instructed in the
English, French, Latin, and Greek languages, writing,
arithmetic, mathematics, book-keeping, geography, and
practical mechanics. They are eligible at seven years
of age, and under ten years of age, and are kept in the
hospital till they are fourteen ; on leaving the institu-
tion, such as are placed out as apprentices to trades are
liberally supplied with clothes and books, and receive
£10 annually for five years during their apprenticeship,
E DI N
E D I N
and a present of £5 on the completion of their inden-
tures. Those who discover any talents or desire for
the learned professions are sent to the university, with
an allowance of £30 per annum for four years, and
there are also ten bursaries of £'20 per annum, founded
in the university by the trustees of the hospital, which
are given to the most deserving of the pupils.
The buildings, which are pleasantly situated on an
eminence to the south-east of the castle, form a hand-
some quadrangular range 162 feet in length, in the
castellated style, after a design by the celebrated archi-
tect, Inigo Jones, with embattled turrets at the angles.
In the centre of the principal front is a square project-
ing tower, embattled, and surmounted by an octagonal
turret and dome, above which is a cupola of similar
design, with a vane ; over the entrance are the armorial
bearings of the founder, and in a niche above the gate-
way within the quadrangle is placed his statue, in the
costume of the day. On the south side of the qua-
drangle, which is ninety-four feet square, with a piazza
on the north and east sides, is the chapel, projecting
beyond the line of the buildings within the area and
also in a noble oriel window in the rear : the chapel is
sixty-one feet in length, and twenty-two feet wide ; the
floor is laid with black and white marble, and the whole
of the interior has bpen recently fitted up with great
elegance. On the west side of the quadrangle is the
large hall, or dining-room ; and adjoining it is the
council chamber, a handsome and spacious room, in
which are portraits of the founder and several of the
trustees. The remainder of the building, which is three
stories in height, and four stories at the angles, contains
apartments for the governor, class-rooms, dormitories,
and other requisite offices ; and the park and grounds
attached are extensive, well planted with shrubberies,
and inclosed by a low wall.
Connected with the hospital, and maintained from
the same funds, are the Heriot Foundation schools, for
the instruction of poor children of deceased burgesses
and freemen, and of others in indigent circumstances.
Of these schools there are at present five, the masters of
which have a salary of £140 each, and the mistresses
£45 each, without any fees ; and there are also two
infant schools, and numerous Sunday schools, supported
from the surplus funds of the hospital, and affording
instruction to nearly 1800 children.
George and John Watson's Hospitals.
George Watsons Hospital, situated near Teviot-row, to
the south of Heriot's hospital, was founded in 1723, by
Mr. George Watson, for the maintenance and education
of sons and grandsons of decayed merchants of Edin-
burgh, for which purpose he bequeathed £12,000. This
sum, being suffered to accumulate, amounted to £20,000
in 173S, when an appropriate building was erected by
the trustees, at a cost of £5000, on a site of land com-
prising seven acres, purchased from Heriot's trustees ;
and in 1741 twelve boys were admitted. The number
increased in three years to thirty ; and there are at pre-
sent about eighty boys on the foundation, who are main-
tained, clothed, and instructed in the English, Latin,
Greek, and French languages, writing, arithmetic, book-
keeping, the mathematics, drawing, dancing, and music.
The boys are eligible for admission at from seven to ten
3S7
years of age ; on leaving the school, each receives a
present of £7 for clothing, and £10 annually for five
years as an apprentice fee, and if, after having faithfully
fulfilled his indentures, he remains for three years un-
married, a further sum of £50 towards establishing
himself in business. Such as display a taste and suffi-
cient degree of talent for literary pursuits are allowed
£20 per annum, for four years, for their support at the
university, and, after leaving it, £17 per annum for two
years. The hospital is under the superintendence of a
body of governors, consisting of the master, assistants,
and treasurer of the Merchants' Company, the bailies
and dean of guild of the corporation, and the two
ministers of the Old Church parish. The buildings
form a neat and substantial pile, comprising a centre
and two projecting wings. The central range, which
rises above the roof of the main edifice, is embellished
with a low tower crowned by a dome, from which
springs a turret with a conical roof surmounted by a
vane, representing a ship in full sail, as the emblem of
commerce ; over the entrance is a tablet having the
armorial bearings of the founder, and in front of the
building is an extensive piece of ground inclosed as a
place of exercise for the pupils. The interior, which is
well arranged, comprises spacious class-rooms, and the
various offices for the purposes of the institution.
John Watson's Hospital was founded by Mr. John
Watson, writer to the signet, who, in 1759, bequeathed
the residue of his estate to Lord Milton, Mr. John Mac-
kenzie, and others, in trust for such pious and chari-
table use within the city of Edinburgh as they should
think fit ; and from those trustees the patronage de-
volved upon the keeper and deputy-keeper of the signet,
who, in 1S22, obtained an act of parliament for the
erection and endowment of an hospital for the mainte-
nance and education of destitute children, and for bring-
ing them up, and assisting their establishment in trade.
The proceeds of the bequest, which, in 1781, amounted
to £4721. 9. 6., have since that time greatly accumulated,
and at present exceed £132,000. There are 126 chil-
dren in the institution, who are admitted at from five
to eight, and stay till they are fourteen, years of age ;
they are maintained, clothed, and instructed in reading,
writing, and arithmetic, and the girls also in needle-
work and housewifery, and on leaving the school the
boys are placed out to trades, and the girls as servants
in respectable families. The building, which is situated
on the Dean land, was commenced in 1825, and com-
pleted in 1S2S ; it is a spacious and handsome struc-
ture in the Grecian style of architecture, with a stately
portico in the centre of the principal front, and contains
every requisite arrangement for its purpose.
Other Hospitals.
The Merchants Maiden Hospital, near Heriot's hospital,
was founded in 1695, by the Merchants' Company, in
conjunction with Mrs. Mary Erskine, for the mainte-
nance and education of daughters or grand-daughters
of merchant-burgesses or ministers of Edinburgh, who
are eligible for admission from the age of seven to eleven,
and are maintained till they are seventeen years of age.
There are at pi-esent ninety-six girls in the hospital, who
are instructed in the English and French languages,
writing, arithmetic, geography, history, drawing, dancing,
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music, and needle-work ; and on leaving the institution,
each receives a present of £9. 6. S. The hospital is
under the superintendence of a body of governors con-
sisting of five members of the town council, the master
and three assistants of the Merchants' Company, the
Earl of Mar, and three of the ministers of the city. The
buildings, originally in Bristo-street, having become in-
adequate for the purpose, the present edifice was erected
in 1818, at. an expense of £12,250; it is a handsome
structure in the Grecian style, after a design by Mr.
Burn, 180 feet in length and sixty feet in depth, with
a portico of four columns in the centre of the principal
front.
The Trades' Maiden Hospital was founded in 1*04, by
the freemen of the incorporated trades, in conjunction
with Mrs. Mary Erskine, and is under the superintend-
ence of a body of governors consisting of the deacons
of the trades, two trades' councillors, and others, incor-
porated by act of parliament in 17 07. There are about
fifty girls, the daughters or grand-daughters of freemen
of the trading companies, who are maintained and in-
structed in the English and French languages, writing,
arithmetic, geography, history, music, sewing, and laun-
dry-work ; they are eligible for admission at from seven
to eleven years of age, and remain in the hospital till
they are seventeen : on leaving, each girl receives a pre-
sent of £5. 11. and a Bible. The building, which is a
plain neat structure, is well adapted to the purpose, and
contains all the requisite accommodations.
The Orphan Hospital was first projected by Mr. An-
drew Gardiner, merchant, in 1727 ; and in 1733 a house
was hired for the purpose, into which thirty destitute
children were received. A building was erected in 1735,
near the Trinity College church, by the directors, who
were incorporated by act of George II. in 1742 ; but,
from the subsequent increase of the city, a more capa-
cious building was erected near North Bridge-street, at
an expense of £16,000. This edifice, however, has been
demolished within the last few years, and the hospital
removed to the west of Edinburgh, near John Watson's
Hospital: 150 children of both sexes are maintained,
and instructed in reading, writing, arithmetic, and geo-
graphy. The children are eligible for admission from
seven to ten years of age, and the hospital is open
without distinction to all parts of Scotland.
Gillespie's Hospital was founded by Mr. James Gilles-
pie, an eminent tobacco and snuff merchant, who, in
1797, bequeathed to the master, treasurer, and assistants
of the Merchants' Company, five members of the town
council, and the two ministers of the Tolbooth church,
in trust, the whole of his landed property and £12,000
in money, for the erection and endowment of an hos-
pital for forty-two aged men and women in indigent
circumstances, and of good reputation, and for the
establishment and support of a school for the mainte-
nance and education of 100 boys. The trustees were
incorporated as governors in 1801, and in 1802 they pur-
chased an ancient structure called Wrights Houses,
near Bruntfield Links, with the land adjoining it,
on the site of which they erected the present building.
The aged persons arc eligible when fifty-five years old,
and, in addition to their maintenance and lodging, have
an annual allowance in money for clothing ; the boys
are received at from six to twelve years of age, and are
instructed in the English language, writing, and arith-
3SS
metic. The hospital is a handsome castellated structure
of stone, consisting of a centre and two projecting wings ;
in the centre of the front is a massive square embattled
tower, with circular turrets at the angles, resting on
corbels; and the wings, which are of less elevation than
the centre, are embattled, and embellished with angular
turrets of similar design. The buildings contain the
various accommodations for the inmates, house-keepers,
and servants, and a chapel in which divine service is
performed twice daily by the chaplain, who also preaches
a sermon on the Sunday : attached to the hospital is a
spacious garden, and to the school sufficient ground for
exercise. There are at present fifty aged persons in the
house, and 150 boys in the school.
Donaldson's Hospital was founded by Mr. James
Donaldson, printer of the Edinburgh Advertiser, who,
in 1S30, bequeathed property exceeding £210,000 to
trustees, for the erection and endowment of an hospital
for the maintenance and education of 200 poor boys and
girls. The trustees purchased a piece of ground at the
west end of the town, for the site of a building in the
Elizabethan style, after a design by Mr. Playfair. This
is now advancing to completion, and forms, next to the
college, the largest public building in the city ; it is a
plain but imposing mass, inclosing a quadrangular court,
and is situated on the high bank of the Water of Leith,
a mile west of Princes-street.
Trinity Hospital was originally founded by Mary of
Gueldres, queen of James II., in 1462, in connexion
with Trinity collegiate church, and was subsequently
given by Mary, Queen of Scots, to the corporation, who
took down the ancient bede-house, then in a ruinous
state, and fitted up the buildings occupied by the pro-
vost and prebendaries of the collegiate church, for the
reception of the poor inmates, consisting of decayed
burgesses, their wives, and children. The revenues
have been greatly increased by good management, and
there are at present forty-two aged persons who are
maintained and clothed, and about 100 out- pensioners
who receive each an allowance of £6 per annum. The
building contains the requisite apartments for the pur-
pose, and a long gallery of small dormitories for one
person each ; but it is about to be demolished, as being
in the line of the North-British railway, and the inmates
will be removed to the Regent Moray's house in the
Canongate, which will be appropriately fitted up for the
purpose.
Miscellaneous Charitable Institutions.
The Royal Infirmary, situated to the east of the uni-
versity, was founded by subscription, and placed under
the superintendence of a committee of subscribers, who
were incorporated by act of parliament in 1736; the
medical department is under the care of the most emi-
nent physicians and surgeons of the city, and the insti-
tution affords relief to a very extended number of
patients. The building, erected in 1738, at a cost of
£5000, and subsequently enlarged by a grant of £S0OO
from the lords of the treasury, for the appropriation of
sixty beds for sick soldiers, is a handsome and spacious
structure four stories high, consisting of a central range
240 feet long, and two projecting wings seventy feet in
length. In the centre of the principal range is a portal
of four Ionic columns with two antae, supporting an
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entablature and cornice surmounted by an attic ; and
in a niche over the entrance is a statue of George II. in
the Roman costume, behind which, rising from the
centre of the building, is an octagonal turret crowned
with a dome. The interior contains a spacious hall, in
which is a bust of Provost Drummond by Nollekens,
manager's rooms, consulting rooms for the physicians
and surgeons, waiting-rooms, rooms for students, and
fifteen different wards for patients ; in the fourth story
is an operation room, in the form of a theatre, lighted
from the roof, and arranged for 100 spectators.
The Public Dispensary, in Richmond-street, was
founded in 1766, and is under the superintendence of
a president, two vice-presidents, and a committee of
twenty directors, annually elected ; it is entirely sup-
ported by subscription, and administers medical advice
and relief to numerous patients. The building is neat
and substantial, and is embellished in the centre of the
front by a small portico, supporting an entablature and
cornice with a triangular pediment, in the tympanum of
which is the story of the good Samaritan, well sculp-
tured in alto-relievo. A branch of this institution was
opened in Physicians' Hall in 1S15.
The Royal Lunatic Asylum, founded in 1S10, at Morn-
ingside, on the south-western outskirts of the city, con-
tinued for long to receive only patients of the higher
classes, who were able to pay a considerable sum ; but,
a few years ago, the public attention having been
earnestly called to the subject, the directors collected
large subscriptions, and erected a very spacious edifice,
capable of containing 350 patients of the lower classes,
at a rate of board varying from £15 to £'20. The build-
ing cost about £36,000, and is fitted up with every re-
quisite for the proper treatment of the patients, accord-
ing to the most improved system ; it is also surrounded
with extensive grounds for the recreation of its inmates.
The Asylum for the Blind, in Nicholson-street, was
opened in 1793, chiefly through the exertions of the
Rev. Dr. David Johnston and other charitable gentle-
men of Edinburgh, and is supported by subscriptions
and donations. It is under the superintendence of a
president, vice-presidents, and a committee, and affords
relief to about eighty or ninety inmates, who are main-
tained, and instructed in the principles of religion and
in various branches of useful learning, and also in such
trades as are best adapted to their peculiar circum-
stances, in which several of them have been made so
efficient, as, on leaving the asylum, to maintain them-
selves and families in independence. The buildings,
which are plain and substantial, and of which one part
is appropriated to males, and another to females, are
in every respect well adapted to their use.
The Institution for Deaf and Dumb Children was
founded in 1S10, and is under a president, vice-pre-
sidents, and committee. About fifty children are main-
tained, and, in addition to religious instruction, taught
reading, writing, arithmetic, and other branches of
learning, of which they may be susceptible ; they are
trained to habits of industry, and are instructed in
useful trades, the proceeds of which are added to the
funds of the institution. Fettes' Endowment arises in a
bequest of Sir William Fettes, Bart., of Comely Bank,
who died in May, 1S36, leaving the greater portion of
his large fortune for the maintenance, education, and
outfit of young persons whose parents have fallen into
389
adverse circumstances. Chalmers' Hospital, of which
the management is vested in the dean and faculty of
advocates, owes its institution to Mr. George Chalmers,
plumber, of the city, who died in March 1836, be-
queathing the chief part of his property, estimated at
about £30,000, for the relief of sick and hurt persons.
Among other scholastic and benevolent foundations
are, the School of Arts, established in 1821, for the
instruction of mechanics ; the Sessional School of
Canongate, instituted in 1829; the Lancasterian School,
wherein, in 1844, were upwards of 600 children ; and
Dr. Bell's Schools, in each of which between 400 and
500 children are instructed : the School for the Blind,
in Hunter-square ; the Deaf and Dumb School, in
John-street ; the Association for Promoting Education
among Workmen and Apprentices ; and the Angus,
Aberdeenshire, and Mearnshire Clubs, the Caithness,
Lanark, and Northern Islands' Associations, and the
Morayshire and Orkney and Shetland Societies, all in-
stituted at Edinburgh for the advancement of education
in, or for charitable objects connected with, those dis-
tricts respectively. There are besides, the Edinburgh
branch of the London Scottish Hospital ; the Institu-
tion for the Relief of Incurables, founded by the late
Mrs. Elizabeth Keir ; the Fever Board ; the Royal
Port-Hopetoun, Canongate, and New Town dispen-
saries ; the Midwifery and Lying-in Dispensary and
Hospital; the Maternity Hospital, founded in 1843;
and other institutions for the relief of aged and indigent
women, and the cure of female diseases ; the Eye In-
firmary, established in 1834; the House of Refuge,
Queensberry House ; the Night Asylum for the House-
less ; the Servants' Home; the Magdalen Asylum,
founded in 1797; the Lock Hospital, Surgeon-square;
and the Lunatic Asylum, at Morningside. Numerous
religious and missionary societies have been instituted ;
and there are various minor societies for dispensing
relief to the destitute sick, the indigent poor, and aged
persons, and for the distribution of clothing; also the
Edinburgh, Canongate, and St. Cuthbert's Charity
workhouses.
Eminent Natives.
Among the distinguished natives of the city of Edin-
burgh may be enumerated the following : Alexander
Alesius, a celebrated theologian of the 16th century, born
in 1500 ; James VI., born in 1566; Dr. Walter Balcan-
quel, an eminent divine of the 17th century, born about
15S0 ; the pious and learned Robert Leighton, some time
Bishop of Dunblane, and afterwards Archbishop -of
Glasgow, 1610 ; Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Salisbury,
author of the History of the Reformation, 1643 ; Sir John
Lauder, Lord Fountainhall, lawyer and statesman, 1646;
Dr. Archibald Pilcaime, eminent physician, 1652; John
Keill, celebrated mathematician and natural philosopher,
167 1; John Law, of Lauriston, comptroller-general of
the finances of France under the regency of the Duke
of Orleans, and projector of the famous Mississippi
scheme in that kingdom, also born in 1671 : the accom-
plished statesman, John Dalrymple, second Earl of Stair,
1673 ; Dr. Alexander Webster, an eminent divine and
statistical inquirer, about 1707; John Campbell, LL.D.,
a distinguished miscellaneous writer, 1708; the accom-
plished Hugh Campbell Hume, third and last Earl of
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Marchmont, same year; Alexander Russell, author of the
History of Aleppo, ahout 1710 ; James Short, optician
and improver of reflecting telescopes, 1710; William
Tytler, of Woodhouselee, antiquarian writer, 1711;
David Hume, the historian, 17 11 ; John Stuart, third
Earl of Bute, and prime minister of Great Britain, 1713 ;
Allan Ramsay, portrait painter, son of the author of
The Gentle Shepherd, same year ; William Strahan, the
eminent printer to the king, and a patron of literature,
1715 ; Dr. Hugh Blair, author of the celebrated Sermons,
171S ; Francis Garden, a distinguished judge, under
the designation of Lord Gardenstone, 1721; James
Elphinstone, a miscellaneous writer, same year; Sir
David Dalrymple, a celebrated judge and antiquary,
commonly called Lord Hailes, his law title, 1726 ; Dr.
James Hutton, an eminent philosophical character, same
57ear ; Robert Adam, the architect, 1728; William Fal-
coner, author of the well-known poem of The Shipwreck,
about 1730 ; Dr. Alexander Monro, celebrated as a
teacher of medicine, 1733 ; Robert Mijlne, architect, from
whose plans Blackfriars-bridge, London, was built,
1734 ; Alexander Runciman, a painter of considerable
note, 1736 ; John Donaldson, also an eminent painter,
son of a glover in the city, 1737 ; Sir William Forbes, of
Pitsligo, a distinguished banker and citizen, 1739 ;
Dr. William Lothian, author of a History of the United
Provinces of the Netherlands, 1740 ; James Boswell, the
friend and biographer of Dr. Johnson, same year ;
William Smellie, a naturalist, and useful miscellaneous
writer, born about the same time ; Dr. Gilbert Stuart,
historical essayist, 1742 ; Henry Mackenzie, one of the
most illustrious names connected with polite literature
in Scotland, 1745; and William Cruickshanks, F.R.S.,
an eminent surgeon in London, partner and successor
of the famous Dr. William Hunter of the Windmill-
street anatomical school, likewise in 1745.
Within the compass of the last hundred years, Edin-
burgh has rivalled most cities of the empire in the num-
ber and eminence of its gifted men ; and we select the
following from a long record of distinguished natives :
The Hon. Henry Erskine, a great pleader, third son of
the tenth earl of Buchan, born 1746 ; the accomplished
writer and judge, Alexander Fraser Tytler, styled Lord
Woodhouselee, 1747 ; Hugo Arnot, author of the History
of Edinburgh., 1749 ; John Brown, an ingenious artist,
1752; Lieut. -Col. John Campbell, known for his gallant
defence of the fortress of Mangalore, in India, 1753 ;
Dugald Stewart, the highly-distinguished metaphysical
writer, son of Dr. Matthew Stewart, professor of mathe-
matics in the university, 1753 ; Sir Henry Raeburn, cele-
brated portrait-painter, 1756 ; John Pinkerton, the volu-
minous historian and critic, 1758; Sir Walter Scott, the
illustrious poet and novelist, 1771 ; Dr. Andrew Duncan,
entitled to a prominent place among those who have
distinguished themselves in the history of medicine, and
whose father, of the same name, was professor in the
university, 1773 ; Lord Jeffrey, likewise 1773 ; Wil-
liam Blackwood, the publisher, and originator of the
magazine which bears his name, 1776 ; Francis Horner,
whose virtues, talents, and eloquence raised him, while
yet a young man, to so high a rank in public life, 1778 ;
Patrick Gibson, an eminent artist, and writer upon art,
1782 ; and Alexander Gordon Laing, whose name is so
mournfully connected with the history of African dis-
covery, 1793.
390
EDINBURGHSHIRE, or Mid Lothian, the metro-
politan county of the kingdom of Scotland, bounded on
the north by the Firth of Forth, along the shore of
which it extends for about twelve miles ; on the east,
by Haddingtonshire and small portions of the counties
of Berwick and Roxburgh ; on the south, by the counties
of Lanark, Peebles, and Selkirk ; and on the west, by Lin-
lithgowshire. It lies between 55° 39' and 55° 59' (N.Lat.)
and 2° 36' and 3° 33' (W. Long.), and is about thirty-
six miles in length, from east to west, and eighteen miles
in extreme breadth, comprising an area of 360 square
miles, or 230,400 acres; 41,779 houses, of which 38,927
are inhabited ; and containing a population of 225,454,
of whom 102,666 are males, and 122,78S females. The
county originally occupied the central portion of the
ancient and extensive province of Lothian, or Loudon,
and from this circumstance it obtained the appellation,
of Mid Lothian, by which it is still often designated.
It appears to have been inhabited at a very early period
by the Ottadini and Gadeni, two of the British tribes
descended from the Celts, who first made themselves
masters of this part of Britain, and who maintained
their independence till the time of the Roman invasion,
when, to secure his conquests, Agricola constructed a
chain of forts extending from the Forth to the Clyde.
Though frequently assailed by incursions of the Cale-
donians and Britons, the Romans, notwithstanding
occasional reverses, retained possession of the terri-
tories they had acquired, which, under their sway,
formed part of the province of Valentia. After their
departure from Britain, this district very soon fell into
the power of the Saxons, who, under their chieftain
Ida, established themselves in the surrounding coun-
tries, which they continued to govern with absolute
authority. In the reign of Malcolm II., Uchtred, Earl of
Northumberland, against whom that monarch marched
an army for the recovery of his rightful dominions, after
a long-contested battle on the banks of the Tweed,
gained the victory ; but, being soon afterwards assassi-
nated, Malcolm, in prosecution of his claims, renewed
the war against the earl's successor, Eadulph, whom he
compelled to cede the disputed territory for ever ; and
since that period it has continued to form part of
the kingdom of Scotland. Subsequently to this date,
the history of the county is so perfectly identified with
the history of the capital, and that of Scotland at large,
that any fuller detail in this place would be super-
fluous.
The introduction of Christianity appears to have been,
in some small degree, accomplished during the time of
the Romans ; but, the Saxons who succeeded them
being strangers to that faith, it made but little progress
til], by the persevering efforts of St. Cuthbert, it was
more generally diffused. Prior to the cession of Lo-
thian in the reign of Malcolm II., this district was com-
prised in the ancient diocese of Lindisfarn, but it was
subsequently included in that of St. Andrew's, of which
it continued to be part until the erection of the diocese
of Edinburgh, in which it remained till the Reforma-
tion. Since that period the county has formed a por-
tion of the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and it
now comprises the presbytery of Edinburgh, and thirty
parishes, besides those in the city of Edinburgh. For
civil purposes, it was first erected into a sheriffdom in
the reign of David I., and is under the jurisdiction of a
EDIN
sheriff, by whom two sheriffs-substitute are appointed ;
the sessions and other courts are held at Edinburgh,
the county town, and courts for the recovery of small
debts at Edinburgh and Dalkeith. Edinburgh is the only
royal burgh ; Musselburgh, Canongate, and Portsburgh
are burghs of regality, and the county also contains Dal-
keith, a burgh of barony, the town and port of Leith,
and the flourishing villages of Inveresk, Joppa, Porto-
bello, Newhaven, Corstorphine, Currie, Mid Calder,
West Calder, Gilmerton, Lonehead, Roslin, Penicuick,
Lasswade, Ratho, Bonnyrig, Cramond, and Pathhead,
with numerous pleasant hamlets. By the act of the
2nd of William IV., the county returns one member to
the imperial parliament.
Of the lands, about 100,000 acres are arable, S0,000
meadow and pasture, and the remainder moorland and
waste. The surface is diversified with hills, of which
the two principal ranges are the Pentland and the Moor-
foot : the former, a continuation from the county of
Peebles on the south-west, extends to within six miles
of the sea and four miles of the city, occupying a dis-
trict of about forty square miles, and varying consi-
derably in elevation. Rising from a more level tract of
country, they appear loftier than the Moorfoot, and
they have generally a more bleak and barren aspect ;
the highest hills in the range within the county are, the
Caerketton, which has an elevation of 1555 feet, and
the Spittal, of 1360. The Moorfoot hill's, in the south-
east portion of the county, occupy an area of nearly
fifty square miles in extent, and range from 1400 to
1S50 feet in height ; they are interspersed with fertile
dales and tracts of arable land, and a large part of their
acclivities is under cultivation, producing excellent
crops. This district is watered by the Heriot and Gala.
Between the Pentland range and the Firth of Forth are,
the Braid and Blackford hills, Craig-Lockhart, Craig-
millar, Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, the ridge on
which the castle and the Old Town of Edinburgh are
built, and the Calton and Corstorphine hills. The prin-
cipal streams, not being of sufficient importance to
obtain the appellation of rivers, are generally designated
waters, with the exception of the Esk. The Esk origi-
nates in the confluence of the North and South Esk, of
which the former rises in the Pentland, and the latter
in the Moorfoot hills, and both, after a separate course
of twelve or fifteen miles, unite in the pleasure-grounds
of Dalkeith, and thence, flowing for about five miles,
fall into the Forth at the bay of Musselburgh. The
North Esk, in its way to Dalkeith, runs in a rocky
channel, through a beautifully romantic tract of country
comprising Roslin, Hawthornden, Lasswade, and Mel-
ville. The Almond water, forming for a considerable
distance the western boundary of the county, rises in
the high grounds in Lanarkshire, and, taking a north-
eastern course, passes through a level district, fre-
quently overflowing its banks, and joins the Firth of
Forth at Cramond. In its progress along the pictu-
resque valley to which it gives name, it is crossed by
many bridges, by an aqueduct of the Union canal, and
a viaduct of the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway. The
Leith water has its source in some springs in the parish
of Currie, and, after a course of fourteen miles, in which
it turns more than 100 mills, and flows under viaducts
of the Edinburgh and Newhaven railways, and an aque-
duct of the Union canal, falls into the Firth at the har-
391
EDIN
bour of Leith. The Gala has its source at the base of
the Moorfoot hills, and, after a southern course for
about ten miles through the vale of Gala, enters the
county of Selkirk, and ultimately falls into the Tweed
near Galashiels. There are no lakes of any import-
ance.
The soil is greatly varied ; the most prevalent is
clayey loam, alternated with sand and gravel ; and not
unfrequently all the different varieties are found on one
farm. The lands are generally fertile, but the richest
are in the lower part of the county, towards the Forth,
where there are not less than 70,000 acres of arable
ground, producing the most luxuriant crops. The farms
are of moderate extent, few less than 100, and few more
than 300 acres ; the system of agriculture is in the high-
est state of improvement. The chief crops are, wheat,
barley, oats, beans, peas, potatoes, and turnips ; vegeta-
bles and fruits of all kinds are raised in abundance for
the supply of the city, and the amount paid for straw-
berries alone is calculated at £6000 per annum. The
farm-buildings are substantial and well arranged, gene-
rally of stone ; the dwelling-houses roofed with slate, and
the offices with tiles ; the lands are drained and inclosed.
From the abundance of manure collected in the city,
little of any other kind is employed in its vicinity ; but
in the uplands, and on the distant farms, limestone is
the principal manure. The cattle are chiefly of the black
breed, and the horses used for husbandry mostly of the
Lanarkshire, with a few of the Clydesdale breed ; the
milch-cows are usually of the Ayrshire and Teviotdale
breed. Considerable attention is paid to the manage-
ment of the dairy-farms, of which the main produce is
milk and butter for the supply of the city and other
towns. The sheep, of which large numbers are pastured
on the moorlands, are mostly of the Cheviot breed ;
swine are also reared in considerable numbers, and large
quantities of poultry and geese. There are still some
remains of the ancient Caledonian forest which formerly
spread over the greater portion of the county, though
about the commencement of the sixteenth century, the
Borough Muir and other lands being leased by grant of
James V. to the corporation of Edinburgh, such quanti-
ties of timber were felled, that, in order to procure pur-
chasers, the magistrates bestowed on every citizen who
bought sufficient to new-front his house, the privilege of
extending it seven feet further into the street. Nume-
rous oaks of stately growth still adorn the lands of the
chief mansions ; and very extensive plantations have been
formed in various parts, and on all the principal hills,
many of which are richly w ooded to their summit. The
substrata arc mostly limestone, freestone, and whinstone,
all of which are quarried. Coal is very abundant
throughout the greater portion of the county ; and
towards Dalkeith, in the eastern district, is a very exten-
sive coalfield, reaching from the coast of Musselburgh,
for nearly fifteen miles, to the confines of Tweeddale.
The Dalkeith basin contains as much coal as the fields
of Stirling, Clackmannan, or Glasgow, and is remarkable
for a comparatively small development of hydrogen, an
advantage counterbalanced, however, by a great quan-
tity of carbonic acid. Mr. Bald has calculated that this
field alone would supply the consumption of Edinburgh
for five hundred years, at the rate of 350,000 tons per
annum ; but he includes in this estimate the deeper coal,
of which none has been yet wrought. Coal appears to
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have been first raised here for fuel by the monks of New-
battle Abbey, in the latter part of the twelfth century.
Many of the seams are of very fine quality, and there are
at present about twenty mines in constant operation : the
progress of mining, however, is much impeded by the
quantity of water accumulating in the pits, which can be
drawn off only by engines of extraordinary power. Lead
was fomerly wrought on the south side of the Pentland
hills., and was found to contain a considerable propor-
tion of silver ; copper-ore, also, was discovered on the
confines of Peeblesshire, but not in sufficient quantity to
remunerate the working of it. The rateable annual value
of the county is £1,057,562.
The principal manufacture is that of linen, for which
there are several extensive bleaching and print-fields in
the neighbourhood of the city, and on the banks of the
Esk. A considerable business is also carried on in the
manufacture of gunpowder, glass, soap, salt, candles,
bricks, tiles, and pottery of various kinds, and paper ;
and the manufacture of silk has been recently introduced,
for which some mills have been erected on the banks of
the Union canal. There are large iron-works at Cra-
mond, works for chemical preparations, tanneries, dis-
tilleries, breweries, and numerous other manufacturing
establishments, in all of which, though the county is not
distinguished for the extent of its produce in this respect,
the greatest improvement has been made in the quality
of the articles. Every facility of intercourse with the
neighbouring districts is afforded by roads kept in excel-
lent repair, by the Union canal, the Edinburgh and
Glasgow and other railways, and the Firth of Forth.
The maritime commerce of the county is very important,
and, together with that of the East and West Lothians,
Peebles, and Selkirkshire, is concentrated at the port of
Leith. The shores of the Firth are low and sandy, and
for a considerable' breadth covered at high water ; the
Firth abounds with herrings and other fish, and the
beach abounds with shell-fish of every kind : there are
also some valuable beds of oysters. The principal re-
mains of antiquity are of Roman origin, and chiefly in
the vicinity of the capital. Numerous camps are found
in various places, of which one, near Crichton Castle, is
in a very perfect state ; circular camps, supposed to be
of Danish formation, are also prevalent, some consisting
of three, and others of more, concentric intrenchments
of earth and stones. In the parish of Heriot are the
remains of a Druidical circle ; and in Kirkliston are two
upright stones, commemorating a victory obtained by
Kenneth, commander of the forces under Malcolm II.
over the usurper Constantine. The county also contains
many cairns, barrows, and tumuli, near which stone
coffins have been found ; the remains of ancient castles,
of which some were hunting seats of the kings ; the
ruins of various religious houses ; and other relics of
antiquity, all of which, with the gentlemen's seats, are
described in the articles on their several localities.
EDINKILLIE, or Edenkeillie, a parish, in
the county of Elgin, Sf- miles (S.) from Forres ; con-
taining 1237 inhabitants. This place derives its name,
signifying in the Gaelic language " the face of the wood,"
from the ancient forests of Darnaway and Drummine,
of which the greater part of the former and the whole
of the latter were once within the limits of the parish.
A charter granted by David Bruce is still extant, ap-
pointing Richard Comyne, ancestor of the present pro-
392
prietor of Altyre, keeper of the king's forest of Darna-
way ; and in 147S, a similar charter was bestowed by
James III. upon Thomas Cummyne, of the same place,
investing him with the office of warden of the forest of
Drummine. The parish, which is frequently called
Brae-Moray, is about thirteen miles in extreme length,
and seven miles at the greatest breadth, varying consi-
derably in form, and comprising an area of nearly
34,000 acres, of which 3400 are arable, 4700 woodland
and plantations, and the remainder meadow, pasture,
and waste. The surface is diversified with numerous
hills, of which the highest, named Knock-Moray, has an
elevation of about 1000 feet above the level of the sea,
commanding from its summit an extensive and richly-
varied prospect over the surrounding country. The
river Findhorn, which has its source in the county of
Inverness, flows for nearly seven miles in a winding
course through the parish, and falls into Findhorn loch,
in the Moray Frith : the Divie rises in the hills in the
southern boundary of the parish, and, after a north-east
course of almost nine miles, runs into the Findhorn ;
and the Dorback, issuing from the lake of Lochindorb,
falls into the Divie near the church. On the banks of
the Findhorn, which passes through a tract of country
remarkable for the picturesque beauty of its scenery, is
an extensive heronry. At Sluie, on that river, is a valu-
able salmon-fishery, the property of the Earl of Moray,
which, previously to the improvement of the fisheries
nearer the sea, was amazingly productive ; it is now
let at an annual rent of £50, to a company who employ
four men with drag-nets, taking on the average not
more than 700 fish annually. The river abounds with
trout, which are also found in the Divie and Dorback.
The lake of Lochindorb, partly in this parish, is cele-
brated for the remains of a castle situated on an island
within its limits, of which Edward I. of England took
possession, on his route to Inverness, in 1303, and in
which he resided for some time on his return, and re-
ceived the submission of the northern estates of the
kingdom. This castle, in 1336, became the abode of
Catherine de Beaumont, widow of David Hastings, Earl
of Atholl, and was besieged by Sir Andrew Moray, who
had succeeded Douglas in the regency of Scotland dur-
ing the captivity of David Bruce ; but, on the approach
of Edward III. of England, Sir Andrew retreated with
his forces to his castle of Darnaway. Edward placed a
garrison of English in the castle ; and the fortress
afterwards passed from the Earl of Moray to the Camp-
bells of Cawdor, and is now the property of the Earl of
Seafield.
The soil of the arable lands is in some parts a brown
loam alternated with a rich black mould, and in others
light, dry, and gravelly, with large tracts of moss ; the *
crops are, oats, barley, wheat, peas, potatoes, and tur-
nips, with the usual grasses. The system of husbandry
has within the last few years been greatly improved ;
much waste has been reclaimed and brought into profit-
able cultivation ; the lands have been well drained, and
inclosed chiefly with sunk fences, faced with stone, and
planted with hedge-rows of thorn intermixed with forest
trees. The black-cattle reared in the pastures are
principally of the Highland breed, with a few of larger
size bought in autumn, and, when fattened, sold to
dealers for the southern markets ; the sheep, of which
about 2500 are reared, are the black-faced, and 250 of
E D I N
EDNA
the Cheviot breed are annually purchased in September,
and fed on turnips, either for the butcher, or to be sold
with their lambs in the following year. The natural
woods consist of oak, ash, beech, elm, sycamore, Spa-
nish-chesnut, mountain-ash, poplar, birch, holly, alder,
larch, and spruce and Scotch firs. A large quantity of
wood which had arrived at maturity in the forest has
been cut down of late years, and replaced with young
plants, chiefly oaks, of which about 100,000 are planted
every year. The plantations are still more extensive
than the natural woods, and have been principally
formed by the Earl of Moray, who, between the years
1767 and 1/91, planted 10,591,000 trees, of which
9,687,000 were Scotch firs, 596,000 oaks, and the re-
mainder various kinds of forest trees. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £2774.
Dunphail House is an elegant mansion built after a
design by Mr. Playfair, in 1829, and situated on a
terrace on the bank of the Divie, in a demesne tastefully
laid out in parterres and shrubberies, and richly embel-
lished with plantations. The scenery, which is beau-
tifully picturesque, is heightened by the ruins of an
ancient castle, which are seen from the house rising
above the trees that surround the base. Relugas House
is a handsome mansion seated in a demesne between the
rivers Findhorn and Dorback ; it has been enlarged by
an addition of a noble suite of apartments, ninety-six
feet in length, within the last fifteen years, and the
grounds are finely planted. Logie House is on the east
bank of the Findhorn ; and a handsome shooting-lodge
has been erected by the Hon. John Stuart, and is
occupied during the season by various members of the
Moray family. The only village is a cluster of houses
at Conicaval, situated in the north. There are two
small inns in the parish ; and facility of communication
with Forres and the adjacent towns is afforded by the
road from Forres to Perth, by excellent roads formed
by Sir William G. G. Cumming, of Altyre, Bart.,
and others by Charles L. Cumming Bruce, Esq. ; and by
substantial bridges over the Divie and Dorback, to re-
place those destroyed by floods in 1S29. The ecclesi-
astical affairs are under the superintendence of the
presbytery of Forres and synod of Moray. The minis-
ter's stipend is £180, with a manse, and a glebe valued
at £12 per annum; patron, the Earl of Moray. The
church, situated on the east bank of the river Divie, is a
plain structure built in 1741, and repaired in 1S13, and
contains 500 sittings. The parochial school is well con-
ducted ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house
and garden, and the fees average £16 ; he has also an
allowance from the trustees of Dick's bequest. There
are schools at Conicaval and Tullydivie, both supported
by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge ;
and at Halfdavoch is a female school, to the mistress of
which Sir William Cumming pays £5 per annum.
There are some remains, as already noticed, of the
ancient castle of Dunphail, of the foundation of which
there is no authentic record : after the battle of the
Standard, the fortress was besieged by Randolph, Earl
of Moray, and gallantly defended by Cummin, its pro-
prietor. The Doune hill of Relugas is of very great
antiquity, and is supposed to have been a stronghold to
which the inhabitants of the district retired with their
cattle, on the frequent irruption of the Danes ; it is a
conical hill of very precipitous ascent, nearly surrounded
Vol. I.— 393
at the base by the Divie, and, where undefended by the
river, strongly intrenched with ramparts of stone. By
some antiquaries it is connected with a chain of signal-
posts used in times of danger, and is said to have been
at one time occupied by the Romans, who are thought
to have had a chain of similar forts extending from
Forres to Brae-Mar, and thence to Perth.
EDINVILLE, a hamlet, in the parish of Dallas,
county of Elgin ; containing 17 inhabitants.
EDMONDSTONE, a village, in the parish of New-
ton, county of Edinburgh, 3| miles (S. E. by E.) from
Edinburgh; containing 143 inhabitants. It lies in the
western part of the parish, and is one of several small
villages within its limits, of which some consist of long
rows of red-tiled houses, chiefly inhabited by colliers.
The road from Edinburgh to Dalkeith passes at a short
distance on the south ; and a little westward of the
village is Edmondstone House, an elegant residence
finely situated amidst beautiful plantations.
EDNAM, a parish, in the district of Kelso, county
of Roxburgh ; containing 615 inhabitants, of whom
146 are in the village, 2$ miles (N. by E.) from Kelso.
The name of this parish, which is a contraction of the
word Edenham, signifies a hamlet on the Eden, and is
descriptive of the situation of the village near that river.
Little is known concerning the very early history of the
place, the few well-authenticated facts relating only to
its ecclesiastical affairs, and reaching no further back
than the twelfth century. About this period the church
had two chapels attached to it, the one at a place in the
parish called Newton or New-town, to distinguish it
from the old village of Ednam, and the other situated
at Naithan's-thirn or Nanthorn. Robert, Bishop of St.
Andrew's, who died in 1158, ratified the connexion be-
tween the parochial church and the chapel of Newton ;
and Bishop Arnold, who died in 1162, confirmed to the
monks of Coldingham the possession of all the three
places of worship. There was also an hospital, dedi-
cated to St. Lawrence, and supposed to have been
founded by the Edmonstons of Ednam, who were its
patrons; it is referred to in 1348, in a writ of Edward
III., who therein directs that the establishment, with the
hospital of St. Mary of Berwick, should be restored to
Robert de Burton.
The parish is nearly square in form, its length being
three miles and a quarter, and its breadth three miles,
and it contains 5500 acres. The surface is pleasantly
varied by undulations and gently-rising hills, well culti-
vated, or covered with rich verdure and flourishing
plantations ; and the parish being only about a mile and
a half distant from the English border, the scenery
partakes very much of the general character of that on
each side of the Tweed. Ednam hill, on the east of
the village, forms an interesting object in the picture ;
it is arable to the summit, and commands an extensive
view of the surrounding country. The river Eden con-
stitutes another striking feature in the parish, flowing
through a district ornamented with hedge-rows and
with numerous clumps of trees standing in the midst of
well-cultivated fields : on the south-east runs the Tweed.
The soil in some parts consists of loam resting upon a
gravelly subsoil, and in others it is clay, with a less
retentive subsoil than is usually found in such situa-
tions ; upon the same subsoil, likewise, there is light
gravelly earth, and in some places the soil is moorish.
3 E
ED RO
ED RO
These four different descriptions are found in nearly
equal portions. The cultivated land consists of about
3*00 acres, two-fifths of which are in grain, two in pas-
ture and hay, and one in turnips and fallow ; seventy
acres are in pasture along the banks of the rivers, forty
in pleasure-grounds, and about seventy in plantations.
Grain of all kinds is produced, with good crops of pota-
toes, turnips, and hay. The cattle are those usually
termed the short-horned, and the sheep are of the Lei-
cester breed, of which kind a flock was lately reared by
one of the farmers of so superior a description that it
excited the attention of agriculturists in distant parts
of the kingdom. The lands are highly cultivated, and
husbandry is thoroughly understood ; the soil is well
drained, and embankments have been constructed to a
considerable extent. The whole of the substratum is
calcareous, with very few exceptions ; no quarries are
■wrought. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£8329.
There is a mansion-house named Hendersyde, a
handsome modern building, the residence of one of the
heritors. The village is neat in its appearance, the
houses being regularly built, and covered with tiles or
slate ; the woollen manufacture was once carried on,
and there is still a brewery. The river Eden, which rises
in the parish of Gordon, and divides that of Ednam into
two parts, flows close to the village, and has two stone
and two wooden bridges in the parish, all in the best state
of repair : three turnpike-roads, one of them between
Berwick and Kelso, intersect the parish, and there are
several other roads. The ecclesiastical affairs are sub-
ject to the presbytery of Kelso and synod of Merse and
Teviotdale ; patron, the Crown. The stipend, with an
allowance for communion elements, is £158. 6. 8., of
which £111 are payable from the land, and the rest
from the exchequer ; an excellent manse was finished in
1834, and there is a glebe of the annual value of £15.
The church stands near the village, and accommodates
about 260 persons ; it was built in 1S00, and is in good
repair. There is a parochial school, in which mathe-
matics and French are taught, with all the ordinary
branches of education ; the master has the maximum
salary, with about £36 fees, and a house and garden.
Thomson, author of the Seasons, was born in the manse,
his father, the Rev. Thomas Thomson, being minister
of Ednam ; and in 1820, an obelisk, fifty-two feet in
height, was erected to his memory, on some rising
ground about a mile from the village, at the expense of
the Ednam Club, an association of gentlemen who an-
nually celebrated the poet's birthday here. Mr. William
Dawson, the distinguished agriculturist, who introduced
turnip husbandry into Scotland, was also a native of the
parish.
EDROM, a parish, in the county of Berwick,
3 miles (N. E. by E.) from Dunse ; containing, with the
village of Allanton, 1415 inhabitants. This place, of
which the name, anciently Aderham, is said to have
been derived from the situation of its village near the
river Whiteadder, is distinguished as the scene of the
death of Sir Anthony D'Arcy, a native of France, who,
in 1517, was appointed warden of the marches and
governor of Dunbar Castle, in the room of Lord Home,
by the Duke of Albany, regent of Scotland during the
minority of James V. D'Arcy is supposed to have in-
veigled his predecessor to Edinburgh, where, with his
394
brother, Home was treacherously put to death ; and in
retaliation of this, David Home, laird of Wedderburn,
attacked D'Arcy and his party at Langton, and put
them to flight, and D'Arcy's horse being engulphed in a
bog, he was compelled to fly on foot, and was overtaken
at Broomhouse, in this parish, by the laird of Wedder-
burn, who killed him on the spot, and carrying his
head in triumph through Dunse moor, fixed it on the
battlements of Home Castle. In 1674, a very large
meeting of Covenanters assembled at East Nisbet for
the purpose of celebrating the sacrament, at which
more than 3000 communicated. The parish is about
five miles and a half in average length, and two miles
and a half in average breadth, and comprises 8400
acres, of which 7500 are arable, 600 woodland and
plantations, and the remainder rough pasture and waste.
The surface is generally flat, with a slight degree of ac-
clivity ; and the scenery, which is enlivened by the
windings of rivers, and enriched with woods and plan-
tations, is in many parts exceedingly picturesque. The
Whiteadder forms the northern boundary of the parish
for nearly six miles, and, after embellishing much beauti-
ful scenery, falls into the Tweed within two miles of
Berwick : the Blackadder, a stream about fifty feet in
breadth, intersects the parish, dividing it into two almost
equal portions, and, after a course of about six miles
within its limits, flows into the Whiteadder at the vil-
lage of Allanton.
The soil in some parts is shallow and poor, in others
a rich and fertile clay, with some tracts of barren moor-
land ; the crops are, grain of all kinds, with potatoes
and turnips. The system of agriculture is in an ad-
vanced state, and the five-shift course of husbandry
is generally prevalent ; the lands are well drained and
inclosed, the farm-houses and offices substantially built,
and all the more recent improvements in agricultural
implements have been adopted. Great numbers of
sheep of various breeds, with a cross between the Lei-
cestershire and Cheviot, are annually reared, and also
many cattle are pastured. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £15,020. The woods and plantations
are in a thriving condition ; the former consist of the
usual varieties of hard-woods, and the plantations, of
fir, intermixed with different kinds of forest trees : the
thinning of the wood on one estate produces a return of
£300 per annum. The substrata are chiefly clay, marl,
and sandstone, of which the rocks in the parish are
usually composed ; the sandstone is of a whitish colour,
occurs in beds varying from twenty to thirty feet in thick-
ness, and is quarried in several parts. Red sandstone,
resting on conglomerate, is also found, and there is an
extensive tract of shell-marl bog on the lands of Kim-
merghame, from which great quantities of marl have
been obtained, and of which one cubic yard is con-
sidered to be equal in efficacy to a boll of lime. In
draining this bog and removing the marl, several
beavers' heads and deers' horns were discovered.
Broom House, one of the seats in the parish, is a
spacious and handsome mansion erected in 1813, on
the site of an ancient baronial castle : in excavating for
the foundation, several human skeletons were found,
one of which, perfectly entire, was inclosed in a stone
coffin. Within the grounds is the grave of D'Arcy.
Nisbet House is a fine castellated mansion, beautifully
situated ; Kimmerghame is an ancient mansion on the
E D Z E
ED ZE
Blackadder ; and Kelloe, Allanbank, and Blackadder
House, are all handsome residences, likewise seated on the
banks of the Blackadder. In the grounds of the last is a
beautiful conservatory in the early English style of archi-
tecture ; the frame is of cast iron, and the windows,
enriched with elegant tracery, are embellished with stained
glass, the whole raised by the late Thomas Boswall,
Esq., at an expense of several thousand pounds. Edrom
House is beautifully situated, commanding some very
rich scenery, with distant views of the hills of Dunse
and Cockburn, and the Lammermoor and Cheviot hills.
There are three corn-mills on the Blackadder, to two of
which is added machinery for sawing timber ; and on the
Whiteadder is a paper-mill, chiefly for the manufacture
of printing and writing papers, and which is con-
ducted on a very extensive scale, affording occupation
to eighty persons. The parish is in the presbytery
of Chirnside and synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and
patronage of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is
£242. 16., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per
annum. The present church, erected in 1732, and sub-
sequently repaired, is a spacious and neat edifice,
adapted for a congregation of 450 persons : from several
inscriptions, with ancient dates, it would appear that
portions of the old church have been incorporated with
the building. The parochial school is well attended ;
the master has a salary of £34, with £15 fees, a house,
and an allowance in money in lieu of garden. There
are three libraries in the parish for the use of young
persons, supported by subscription and donations.
EDWARD, KING, county Aberdeen. — See King-
Edward.
EDZELL, a parish, partly in the county of Kin-
cardine, but chiefly in that of Forfar, 6 miles
(N. by W.) from Brechin ; containing 1064 inhabitants,
of whom 290 are in the village. This place, in old re-
cords designated Edziel, perhaps derives its name from
a Gaelic term signifying " the cleft," or " dividing of the
waters:" The most ancient proprietors of land are said
to have been a family of the name of Stirling, from
whom considerable property came by marriage to the
Lindsays of Glenesk, who possessed nearly the whole
of the parish, and have left a memorial of their con-
nexion with the place in the exemption, remaining to
this day, of the lands of Edzell from the payment of
custom at the great June fair of Brechin. About the
year 1/14 the estates were purchased by the Earl of
Panmure, who was wounded at Sheriffmuir, and the
property, with the earl's other estates, afterwards es-
cheated to the crown ; it came subsequently into the
hands of the York Building Company, and eventually
passed by purchase to William, Earl of Panmure, in
the peerage of Ireland, a near branch of the family,
from whom it has descended to the present owner.
The castle of Edzell, now an extensive ruin, consists of
two towers, formerly connected by a splendid range
of apartments ; the southern portion, called Stirling's
tower, is much older than the other, and is supposed
to have been built and inhabited by the Stirlings. The
fortress was occupied by a garrison of Cromwell's in
1651 ; and though it ceased to be a residence in 1715,
it was held in March or April, 1746, by Colonel John
Campbell, afterwards Duke of Argyll, who commanded
the Argyll Highlanders, when the Duke of Cumberland
was marching through the heart of the country.
395
The parish lies on the north-east border of Forfar-
shire. Its southern part is a peninsula about three
miles long and two wide, formed by the two branches
of the North Esk, called the North and West waters ;
and at the northern extremity of this peninsular por-
tion, where the West water, entering the parish from
Lethnot, takes a southerly direction, nearly at right
angles with its former course, the parish expands in
width to about four miles. The lands in the north
are bordered by the North water, or principal branch
of the North Esk, on both sides for several miles.
About 4270 acres are arable, 200 are under wood, of
which about ninety acres, chiefly larch, were planted at
the beginning of the present century ; and 1060 acres
are waste, affording only a little pasture, though one-
third of the extent is considered capable of improve-
ment. Besides these lands, there is a hilly surface of
about forty-six square miles, covered with brown heath,
with here and there verdant patches, produced by the
moisture of neighbouring springs, or the fertility of a
superior soil. The crops consist chiefly of oats, barley,
potatoes, turnips, and hay ; the farms in general are of
moderate size, and in many instances the obstructions
presented by moors, moss, and high grounds forbid
enlargement. The parish is wholly the property of
Lord Panmure, with the exception of the Kincardine-
shire portion, which is one-seventh of the whole, and
was formerly a separate parish, called New Dosk, the
old burial-ground still remaining. The substrata con-
sist partly of red sandstone, exhibiting several varieties ;
and granite, with some other rocks, is found. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £2991, of which
£486 are for Kincardineshire.
The village of Edzell, formerly called Slateford, has
recently been much enlarged and improved, Lord Pan-
mure having, in 1S39, granted building-leases for
ninety-nine years ; many good houses have been erected
according to a regular plan, and much benefit has re-
sulted from the conditions requiring every tenement to
be raised with stone and lime, and covered with slate,
and to have small allotments in front for flowers, in-
closed by low walls. The proprietor has lately erected
in the centre a handsome building for a post-office and
reading-room ; there is an excellent and convenient
inn, and many visiters take lodgings here in summer,
attracted by the salubrity of the locality, and the beau-
tiful scenery on the North Esk. A mill for the carding
and spinning of wool, and the manufacture of blankets,
has been in operation for some years in the parish,
employing above thirty hands, men and women ; and
about twenty-seven looms are engaged in the manu-
facture of coarse linen for an establishment at Montrose,
On the North Esk is a salmon-fishery, but of inconsi-
derable value. The dairy produce is generally carried
for sale to the market at Brechin, and the grain is
shipped at Montrose. There is a long-established fair,
now on the decline, in August ; and three of more recent
date, originated by Lord Panmure, for sheep and cattle,
and on the increase, are regularly held here in the
months of May, July, and October, respectively. The
parish is in the presbytery of Brechin and synod of
Angus and Mearns, and in the patronage of the Crown j
the minister has a stipend of £158, with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £9 per annum. The church was erected
in the year 1818, at the end of the village. The mem-
3 E 2
ELAN
ELG A
bers of the Free Church have a place of worship. The
parochial school, situated in the village, affords in-
struction in the ordinary branches ; the master has a
salary of £34, with a house and garden, and £24 fees.
A school has also been established, and premises built,
in the Kincardineshire district, by the proprietor of
that portion, John Gladstone, Esq., of Fasque ; it has
an endowment of £10 per annum, making an income
for the teacher, together with the school fees, of about
£24. At Colmellie are two Druidical circles, and the
ancient place of execution for the district still retains
the name of Gallow Hill : near the West water is the
burial-place in which stood the old parish church, and
which is still used by the inhabitants, though the edi-
fice itself has been superseded by the present church,
erected on a new site.
EIGG, an island, in the parish of Small Isles,
county of Inverness; containing 546 inhabitants.
This is one of a cluster of isles which constitute the
parish ; it is about three miles and a half in length and
two and a half in breadth, and lies ten miles westward
of Arisaig on the main land. The whole shore is rocky,
with the exception of Lagg bay, on the west side ; the
surface is uneven, and diversified by hills covered with
heath, which in some places is mixed with coarse grass.
The low grounds are tolerably productive where there is
a sufficiency of soil, and about a third part of the island
is arable and pasture land, the rest being moor and
moss, applied to the rearing of cattle, which is the chief
occupation of the inhabitants. The highest elevation is
towards the south, where is a singularly-formed hill,
called the Scuir of Eigg, terminating in a lofty peak,
said to be 1340 feet in height, and surrounded by per-
pendicular precipices. Through the middle of the
island runs a hollow, called in Gaelic Eagg, and hence
is derived its name : on the south-eastern side are
several caves. There are various Danish forts ; and a
barrow here, is said to be the burial-place of Donnan,
the tutelary saint of the island.
EILDON, a hamlet, in the parish and district of
Melrose, county of Roxburgh, 1§ mile (E. S. E.)
from Melrose ; containing 56 inhabitants. It is situ-
ated in the south-eastern part of the parish, and on the
road from Melrose to Jedburgh. In the vicinity is the
elegant mansion of Eildon Hall, surrounded by fine
plantations ; and about a mile westward are the Eildon
hills, which are partly in Bowden parish. They are
three in number, and are of conical form, rising from
one broad base ; the elevation of two of them is about
1400 feet above the sea, and the north-east hill is chiefly
remarkable for the vestiges of a regularly-formed Roman
camp, communicating with military stations on the two
other hills. The views from the summits are magnifi-
cent, and embrace a great part of the south-eastern
district of Scotland.
ELAN A BHRIU, an isle, in the parish of Eddra-
chillis, county of Sutherland. It lies off the west-
ern coast, and derives its name, signifying " the Island
of the Judge," from the bowels of Judge Morrison, of
Lewis, having been interred here, after his murder by
Little John Mac Dhoil Mhich Huishdan. The isle is
about four acres in extent, and furnishes good pasture
for lambs ; it is always held by the minister of Eddra-
chillis, as the gift of the noble family of Mac Kay, lords
Reay.
396
ELAN A GHARIN, an isle, in the parish of Assynt
county of Sutherland. It is a small islet, off the
western coast, and is attached to the farm of Unapool,
and appropriated to pasturage.
ELAN AN DU, isles, in the parish of Assynt,
county of Sutherland. They are a small cluster, of
which the name signifies " the black islands," lying, like
the preceding isles, off the western coast of the county ;
they are appropriated to pasturage, but are of little
value.
ELAN MHUIN, an isle, in the parishes of Appin,
county of Argyll, and Kilmalie, county of Inver-
ness. It is situated in Loch Leven, and is of small
extent, with two rocky islets adjoining it. The island
is the joint property of the proprietors of Calart, in In-
verness, and of Glencoe, in Argyllshire, to whom the
rent of the land is paid alternately ; and it is therefore
generally considered as alternately in Inverness and in
Argyll.
ELDERSLIE, lately an ecclesiastical district, in the
Abbey parish of the town of Paisley, Upper ward of
the county of Renfrew, 2| miles (W. by S.) from
Paisley; containing 10S6 inhabitants. The village,
which is on the road from Paisley to Beith, is distin-
guished as the birthplace of the celebrated Sir William
Wallace, who was born in an ancient house near its
western extremity. In the garden of the house, close
to the foundation of the wall, a stone was dug up,
bearing the inscription W. W. W., with the legend
" Christ is only my Redeemer," and which is preserved
in the cabinet of Alexander Speirs, Esq., of Elderslie ;
and on the opposite side of the road is an old tree
called Wallace's tree, in which that hero concealed him-
self when pursued by his enemies. The village is plea-
santly situated, and is abundantly supplied with water
from numerous fine springs, of which one, discovered
while boring for coal, is called the Bore. The inhabit-
ants are chiefly engaged in weaving, and also in the
spinning of cotton, for which two extensive mills have
been erected, affording employment to about 400 per-
sons. The Glasgow, Paisley, and Johnstone canal,
and the Glasgow, Paisley, and Ayr railway, which
pass in the vicinity, afford ample facilities of commu-
nication. The ecclesiastical district included also the
villages of Quarrelton and Thorn, and was about three
miles in length, and one mile in average breadth : the
church is a neat structure in the later English style of
architecture, erected by subscription, and containing
about 800 sittings.
ELDRIG, a village, in the parish of Mochrum,
county of Wigton, 3 miles (N. by W.) from Port-
William ; containing 217 inhabitants. It is situated in
the south-west part of the parish, and in the vicinity of
a stream which flows from Loch Eldrig into Luce
bay.
ELGAR, an isle, in the parish of Shapinsay, county
of Orkney. This place, also called Eller-Holm, lies a
little to the south of the island of Shapinsay, from
which it is separated by a reef of rocks that are almost
dry at low water. It furnishes pasture for a number of
sheep and young cattle in summer, and gives, by its
favourable situation, the utmost security to the fine
harbour ofElwick. There are evident marks of its hav-
ing been formerly inhabited, though at present no one
resides upon it.
E L G I
E LGI
Bur ah Seal.
ELGIN, a burgh, mar-
ket-town, and parish, in the
county of Elgin, of which it
jg\ is the capital, 63^ miles (N.
§§; W.) from Aberdeen, and 174
(N.) from Edinburgh ; con-
taining 5216 inhabitants, of
whom 4325 are in the town.
This place appears to have
derived its name and found-
ation from Elgin, or Hel-
gyn, general of the arm)' of
Sigurd, the Norwegian Earl
of Orkney, who, about the year 930, made himself
master of Caithness, Sutherland, Ross, and Moray, in
the southern part of which last district he built a town,
supposed to be the origin of the present, a few miles
from the small harbour of Burgh-Head, where the Nor-
wegians kept their shipping. A castle seems to have
been erected at an early period, either for the defence of
the town, or as a residence for its founder ; and on some
rising ground called Lady hill, there are still traces of
an ancient fortress which, in the reigns of William the
Lion and Alexander I. and II., is said to have been a
favourite resort and an occasional residence of those
monarchs. A charter of William is yet extant, in which
that king grants to the Bishop of Moray an annual pay-
ment out of the fee-farm rent of " his burgh of Elgin ;"
and in 1224, Alexander II. sanctioned the removal of
the seat of that diocese to Elgin, where a cathedral was
erected, and also an episcopal palace. The town thus be-
came distinguished, and in ecclesiastical affairs obtained a
degree of importance inferior to the cities of St. Andrew's
and Glasgow alone. In 1269, Alexander III. bestowed
upon the inhabitants all the liberties and privileges of a
royal burgh; and Robert I., in his charter granting the
earldom of Moray to Thomas Ranulf, expressly stipulates
that the burgesses of Elgin, in holding under the earl,
should retain all their accustomed rights as fully as when
they held them immediately under the charter of Alex-
ander III. The town appears to have suffered severely
at various times, and to have been frequently destroyed
by fire. In 1390, the Earl of Moray conferred upon the
burgesses an exemption from certain sums paid to his
castle, in consequence of the various calamities to which
they had been exposed ; and his successor soon after-
wards remitted to them the customary dues on wool,
cloth, and all other merchandise exported from the har-
bour of Spey, in consideration of the same or similar
disasters. Archibald Douglas, Earl of Moray, in 1451,
bestowed a charter reciting and confirming that of Alex-
ander III. ; and Chai-les I. of England, in 1633, ratified
all previous grants by his predecessors in favour of the
burgh, of which the form of government was finally
settled by an act of the convention of burghs in the year
1706.
The town is pleasantly situated on the south bank of
the river Lossie, which forms the boundary of the parish
for some distance ; and is sheltered in the rear by a
richly-wooded and gently-sloping height, in the form of
a crescent, which protects it from the severer winds.
It is irregularly built, but contains several good houses
and handsome villas of recent erection ; the streets are
paved, and lighted with gas by a voluntary assessment,
and a contribution of £30 annually from the funds of
397
the burgh. The inhabitants were until recently only
supplied with water from the river, and from wells sunk
in different parts of the town ; but they have now a
more adequate and convenient supply, derived from a
spring in the hills, four miles distant to the south of
Elgin, and conveyed by pipes to the houses. There is
an extensive circulating library, containing many well-
selected volumes of history and general literature ; and a
literary association, established in 1818, is supported by
subscription, and has a well-assorted library of more than
700 volumes, with a reading-room recently added to it,
supplied with newspapers and periodical works. The Mo-
rayshire Farmers' Club, established in 1799, holds its an-
nual meetings here for the encouragement of husbandry,
and, by the distribution of prizes to all successful competi-
tors within the surrounding district, has greatly tended to
the interest and improvement of this part of the country :
an extensive and valuable library has been formed by the
club, which contains a numerous collection of standard
works on agriculture. There are no manufactures pur-
sued to any extent ; the traffic is principally in grain,
which is sent to different markets, and, among others,
to Leith, Liverpool, and London. A very extensive
trade in flour has long been carried on with Aberdeen
and other towns in that county, and also in the county
of Banff; and it has lately increased. There are in the
town a tannery and some breweries, and near it two dis-
tilleries ; the shops are well supplied with articles of
merchandise, and several of the inhabitants are em-
ployed in various handicraft trades.
A considerable degree of foreign trade appears to have
been once carried on, and in 169S a harbour was con-
structed at the mouth of the river Lossie, in the parish of
Drainie, about five miles from Elgin, by the town council,
who received the anchorage and shore dues. These dues,
however, were by no means adequate to keep the harbour
in an efficient state of repair, and until the recent con-
struction of Stotfield harbour the retail dealers in the
town consequently obtained their principal London
goods by smacks trading to Inverness, which sometimes
landed them at Burgh-Head ; articles of lighter weight
were generally brought by steam-boats to Aberdeen, and
forwarded thence by land-carriage. Considerable quanti-
ties of grain are nevertheless shipped, and coal is landed,
at the harbour of Lossiemouth, where there is a small
village for the residence of persons connected with the
port; but, from the want of sufficient depth of water,
only vessels of very small burthen can enter. A joint-
stock company was recently formed for constructing
a harbour at Stotfield point, at a very inconsiderable
distance from Lossiemouth; and the completion of this
important work has opened a direct communication with
the London and other markets for agricultural produce
at less expense, and to a much greater extent, than was
formerly practicable. The market, which is on Tuesday
and Friday, is abundantly supplied with grain, poultry,
butter, and provisions of all kinds ; fairs are held in the
town on the Fridays preceding Martinmas and Whit-
suntide, for the hiring of farm-servants and the sale of
various wares, and ten fairs are annually held in the
vicinity for cattle and horses. Facility of communica-
tion is afforded by excellent turnpike-roads branching
off from the town in every direction; the great north
road passes through it. The post-office has a tolerably
good delivery.
E L G 1
ELGI
The burgh, under its charter, was governed by a pro-
vost, four bailies, a treasurer, dean of guild, and ten
others, who formed the town council ; but since the
passing of the Municipal Reform act, the controul has
been vested in seventeen councillors, together with a
provost, town-clerk, and other officers, elected under the
authority, and subject to the regulations, of that act.
There are six incorporated guilds, the shoemakers,
tailors, hammermen, glovers, wrights, and weavers, all
of which, except the weavers, claim the privilege of ex-
clusively carrying on their trades within the burgh. The
freedom is obtained by birth, by servitude to a freeman
of the incorporated guilds, or by purchase for the sum
of £16, which has been fixed by the town council for all
indiscriminately, though previously the payment varied
according to the practice of the different guilds. The
magistrates exercise both civil and criminal jurisdiction
within the limits of the burgh, and over all lands held
under burgage tenure ; but since the establishment of the
sheriff's court few civil actions have been tried ; and in
their criminal jurisdiction, the magistrates invariably
confine themselves to the adjudication of petty offences.
The burgh is the head of an elective district, and, with
the burghs of Cullen, Banff, Peterhead, Kintore, and
Inverury, returns one member to the imperial parlia-
ment ; the right of election is, by the Reform act, vested
in the resident £10 householders. The number of voters
within the municipal boundaries is 213, of whom ninety-
five are burgesses ; and of similar residents beyond the
municipal, but within the parliamentary limits, fifty, of
whom six are burgesses. Of £5 householders within
the burgh the number is 110, of whom forty are bur-
gesses. The election of the member takes place here,
and the assizes and sessions for the county are also held
in the town. The old county hall and gaol, both very
indifferent buildings, have been superseded by a new
and elegant edifice.
The parish, which is of very irregular form, com-
prises 11,500 acres; 7000 are arable, 1500 woodland
and plantations, and the remainder rough pasture and
waste. The surface is varied : from the town it has
a gentle acclivity towards the base of the Blackhills ;
and to the west of the river it is divided, by a precipi-
tous ridge of considerable elevation, into the vales of
Pluscardine and Mosstowie. The scenery is generally
of a pleasing character, and in many parts beautifully
picturesque and romantic. The river Lossie, which
rises in the hills of Dallas, skirts the parish to the
north, and in other parts winds through it with a silent
course, frequently overflowing, and doing considerable
damage to the adjoining fields : after a course of about
eight miles, it falls into the Moray Frith at the village
of Lossiemouth. The soil is various ; most of the ara-
ble land is of a light and sandy quality ; in some parts
inclining to clay ; and in others, especially near the
river, a deep rich loam. The crops are, wheat, oats,
barley of the Chevalier kind, which, from its adaptation
to the soil, is raised in great quantities, potatoes, and
turnips. The system of agriculture is improved ; lime
and bone-dust are extensively used for manure ; the
lands are well drained and inclosed ; the farm-houses
and offices are substantial and commodious, and those
of the larger farms are built of stone, and roofed with
slate. Threshing-mills have been erected, several of
which are driven by water ; there are numerous mills
398
for grain, a mill for carding wool, and one for sawing
timber. Great attention is paid to the breed of cattle
and horses ; the prevailing breed of cattle is a black
kind resembling the Aberdeenshire, but inferior in size,
with an occasional cross of the short-horned : very few
sheep are reared. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £15,592. The plantations consist of Scotch,
and spruce firs and larch, intermixed with every variety
of forest trees ; they are under careful management, and
in a very flourishing state. The principal substratum
is sandstone, of which the ridge separating the valleys
of Pluscardine and Mosstowie is chiefly composed.
Limestone, also, is found near the town, of a dark
colour, in some parts alternated with sand and clay;
it is quarried for building and other purposes, and
burnt into lime for manure, and for making mortar for
the use of builders. Westerton, the seat of Lieut.-Col.
Alexander Hay, is a handsome modern mansion beau-
tifully situated in the romantic vale of Pluscardine,
commanding a view of the ruins of the abbey and the
richly-wooded grounds of the Earl of Fife.
The parish is the seat of a presbytery, and of the
synod of Moray ; patron, the Crown. There are two
ministers, each of whom has a stipend of £241 ; one
minister has a manse, but the other has neither manse
nor allowance in lieu ; the glebe is equally divided.
A home mission for the remoter parts of the parish
has been maintained for more than a century, from
the funds of the Royal Bounty and the interest of
some legacies bequeathed for the purpose, and the
minister dispenses the ordinances of religion to more
than 600 persons. The parish church, situated in the
centre of the town, was erected on the site of the
old church of St. Giles, which had become dilapidated ;
it is an elegant structure of freestone, in the Grecian
style of architecture, with a noble portico at the west
end of six columns of the Doric order, having an enta-
blature and cornice surmounted with a triangular pedi-
ment. At the east end is a square tower supporting a
circular campanile turret, surrounded with columns.
The interior of the edifice is neatly fitted up, well
arranged, and adapted for a congregation of ISOO
persons ; the church was completed at an expense of
£8300, and was opened for divine service in October,
1828. There are places of worship for members of the
United Secession, members of the Free Church, Original
Seceders, Baptists, and Independents, and an episcopal
and a Roman Catholic chapel. The Elgin academy, partly
supported by endowment, and partly from the common
funds of the burgh, comprises three schools, each under
the direction of a master ; the classical master has a
salary of £50 per annum, and the mathematical and
English masters a salary of £45 each. The late James
Mc Andrew, Esq., of Elgin, bequeathed £200, the inter-
est to be distributed in prizes to three boys in the clas-
sical school. The Elgin institution for the support of
old age and the instruction of young persons, established
and endowed by Lieut.-Gen. Andrew Anderson, E. I. C. S.,
affords accommodation for ten aged and infirm persons,
and for sixty children who are maintained and educated
in a school of industry ; and connected with the build-
ing is a free school for 230 children, with apartments
for a master and mistress, who have a joint salary of
£75 per annum. The teacher of the school of industry
has a salary of £55, with lodging and maintenance.
EL G I
ELGI
The buildings of the institution occupy a spacious qua-
drangular area, and are handsomely erected of freestone :
the central range has a Doric portico supporting an
entablature and pediment, on which latter are three
sculptured figures representing the founder and the
objects of the institution, the whole surmounted by a
circular cupola and dome ; and the wings are embel-
lished with porticos of the same order. The interior
is well adapted to the purposes of the establishment,
and contains a neat chapel, schoolrooms, with refec-
tories and dormitories for the children, and apartments
for the aged persons ; the gardens are well laid out, and
the whole is inclosed with a stone wall and iron pali-
sade. The expense of the buildings, which were com-
pleted in 1S33, was about £12,000. An infant school
is supported by subscription, the master of which has
a salary of £25 per annum, with a house and the school
fees ; and there is a trades' school, with an endow-
ment of £5 per annum from the common fund of the
burgh.
The poor have the interest of lands and monies vested
in the corporation, amounting to £23. 7- 6., and of pro-
perty in the hands of the Kirk Session, amounting
to £54. 15. per annum. James VI., by charter in 1620,
granted to the provost, bailies, and community of the
burgh, the site and revenues of the hospital of Maison
Dieu, under which grant an almshouse has been erected
for four bedesmen, who receive annually four bolls, of
barley, paid out of the rents of the hospital lands. Four
bedesmen are also supported by the proceeds of money
and land bequeathed by William Cumming, of Auchray,
in 1693, and producing annually £71. 18., which sum is
equally divided among them. Mr. Duff, in 1729, left
lands for the support of a decayed burgess, which yield
£23 per annum, paid to persons nominated by the Earl
of Fife. A bequest by Mr. Petrie, in 1777, for the edu-
cation of six poor orphans or children of the town of
Elgin, is in the hands of the Kirk Session ; and from the
proceeds each of the children receives £4 per annum
for three years. The Guildry charitable fund was esta-
blished in 1S14, by the guild brethren, for the relief of
the widows and children of decayed members ; and by
good management, the funds have accumulated suffi-
ciently to enable them to divide £250 annually among
the objects of the institution. Grey's hospital for the
sick poor of the town and county was founded in 1819,
by Dr. Alexander Grey, of Calcutta, who endowed it
with funds for its maintenance ; and Dr. Dougal be-
queathed £15 per annum for the purchase of medicines
for the poor, which was given to the trustees of the
hospital. The number of patients admitted annually
is about 250, and the number in the house at one time
about twenty-five ; and since the addition of Dr. Dou-
gal's bequest, medicines and advice have been gratui-
tously dispensed to 300 out-patients every year. The
building is in the Grecian style of architecture, with a
handsome portico of four Doric columns, supporting an
entablature and cornice, and a stately dome rises from
the centre of the edifice ; the interior is well arranged.
On the grounds belonging to it, and nearly adjoining,
a county lunatic asylum for paupers has been built.
Dr. Grey likewise bequeathed £2000, which, on the
decease of his widow, will be augmented with an addi-
tional £1000, for the assistance of unmarried daughters
of respectable but decayed burgesses : the interest of
399
this sum is divided among them by the ministers and
physicians of the parish, who are permanent trustees.
A portion of land, also, was bequeathed by Mr. Laing
for the assistance of a decayed merchant and guild bro-
ther ; it produces £5. 10. per annum, which are paid to
the nominee of the nearest surviving relative of the
testator. The six incorporated trades distribute con-
siderable sums among their poor members and widows
and children ; and a savings' bank was established in
1815, in which the amount of deposits is above
£23,000.
There are some beautiful remains of the ancient
cathedral, founded by the Bishop of Moray in 1224, and
which was burnt by Alexander Stewart, generally called
the Wolf of Badenoch, whom one of the bishop's succes-
sors had excommunicated for the unjust seizure and
detention of his lands ; it was, however, soon afterwards
restored, and continued in all its original magnificence
till the year 156S, when the Regent Morton directed
the lead to be stripped off its roof, in order to pay his
troops. From its exposure to the weather, it now began
to decay ; the wood-work of the great tower in time
perished, and the foundation sinking, it fell in 17 11.
When entire the cathedral had five towers, two at the
west end, two at the east, and one stately tower rising
from the centre ; it was a splendid cruciform structure
in the decorated style of English architecture, 264 feet
in length, and of proportionate breadth, and the central
tower was 198 feet high. The remains consist partly of
the walls and turrets of the choir ; and the western
towers, with the grand western entrance, are yet tole-
rably entire ; but only a few fragments of the walls of
the nave and transepts are standing. The chapter-
house, an octangular building nearly forty feet in dia-
meter, with a richly- groined roof, supported on one
central column, is still in good preservation. Of the
college, which was an appendage of the cathedral, only
the eastern gateway, with part of the wall by which it
was inclosed, is now remaining ; the episcopal palace
and conventual buildings have all disappeared, and
though enough is left to afford an idea of the style of
this once stately structure, the ruins convey but a very
imperfect memorial of its ancient grandeur and mag-
nificence. By the laudable exertions of the barons of
the exchequer of Scotland, and the commissioners of
woods and forests of England, much of the accumu-
lated rubbish has been removed, and man)' interesting
details which had been long concealed have been
brought to light. There are still some ruins of the
church of a convent of Grey Friars, founded here by
Alexander II. ; and the site of the hospital of Maison
Dieu may be traced in a field near the town. About six
miles to the west of Elgin are the ruins of the abbey of
Pluscardine, situated in the valley of that name ; a con-
siderable portion of the stone wall that inclosed it is yet
remaining, and the dormitory, which has been roofed
and restored in the original style, is fitted up as a place
of worship for the inhabitants of the district. The
remains are carefully preserved from further decay by
the proprietor, the Earl of Fife ; and the plantations
which his lordship has formed in the immediate vici-
nity add greatly to the beauty of their appearance.
On Lady hill is a monument to the memory of George,
last duke of Gordon, who died in 1S36. Elgin gives
the title of Earl to the family of Bruce.
E L G I
E LI E
ELGINSHIRE, a county in the north-east of Scot-
land, bounded on the north by the Moray Frith, on the
east and south-east by Banffshire, on the south by a
detached portion of the county of Inverness, and on
the west by Nairnshire. It lies between 57° 1 1' and
57° 43' (N. Lat.) and 3° 2' and 3° 5S' (W. Long.), and
is about 40 miles in length, and 23 miles in extreme
breadth ; comprising an area of S40 square miles, or
537,600 acres; 8526 houses, of which 8154 are in-
habited; and containing a population of 35,012, of
whom 16,090 are males, and IS, 922 females. This
county formerly constituted a portion of the ancient
province of Moray, which contained the shires of Nairn
and Elgin, and a large part of the county of Banff, and
which was for many ages distinguished as the " granary
of Scotland." At a very early period Moray had an
establishment of Culdees, and it subsequently became
the seat of various religious societies, that emigrated
from Italy, and settled here about the commencement
of the 10th century. In the year 1100 it was made a
diocese ; and in 1150, an abbey for Cistercian monks
was founded at Kinloss by David I. The priories of
Urquhart, Pluscardine, and Kingussie were soon after-
wards established; and in 1224, Andrew, Bishop of
Moray, erected a cathedral for his diocese at Elgin, of
which the remains form one of the most interesting
ecclesiastical relics in the country. Since the Reforma-
tion the county has been included in the synod of
Moray ; it comprises parts of several presbyteries, and
consists of about twenty parishes. For civil purposes
it is joined with the shire of Nairn, under the jurisdic-
tion of one sheriff, who appoints a sheriff-substitute for
each ; and it contains the royal burghs of Elgin and
Forres, of which the former is the county town, the
towns of Garmouth and Lossiemouth, and a few
villages. Under the act of the 2nd of William IV., the
two counties return one member to the imperial
parliament.
The surface, which rises gradually from the shores
of the Frith towards the Grampian range, is beautifully
diversified with parallel ranges of hills of moderate
elevation, intersecting the county from cast to west, and
between which are fertile valleys of pleasing appearance.
The chief rivers are, the Spey, the Lossie, and the
Findhorn, of which the first enters the county from
Inverness, at Aviemore, and, pursuing a north-easterly
course, and receiving the Dulnan and Avon, falls into the
Moray Frith at Garmouth ; it is scarcely navigable,
from the extreme rapidity of its current, except for the
floating of timber from the forests of Strathspey, but
abounds with salmon, the fisheries of which produce a
rental of £7000 per annum. The Lossie has its source
in a loch of that name, within the county, and, taking
a direction nearly parallel with the Spey, flows through
the town of Elgin into the Frith at Lossiemouth. The
river Findhorn rises in the county of Inverness, and
soon after entering the county receives the streams of
the Dorbac and the Divie, and runs northward into
Findhorn bay, in the Moray Frith. The chief lakes
are, Lochnaboe, covering about sixty acres, and sur-
rounded with a forest of ancient firs ; Inchstellie, of very
small dimensions ; Loch Spynie, which has been almost
wholly drained ; and Lochandorb, on the boundary
between Elgin and the detached portion of the county
of Inverness. The last is four miles in length, and
400
about one mile broad ; on the border are some remains
of a castle, which was besieged by Edward II. of Eng-
land in his wars with Bruce.
About one-fifth of the land is arable and in cultiva-
tion, and of the remainder less than one-half is in
pasture, woodlands, and plantations. The soil in the
lower districts is sand, alternated with clay and loam,
which last is the most predominant ; the system of
agriculture, though inferior to that of some other coun-
ties, is still greatly improved, and the farm-buildings
and offices are generally substantial and commodious.
Considerable attention is paid to the rearing of live
stock ; the cattle are mostly a mixture of the Shetland
and Lancashire breeds, and the sheep of the black-faced
breed ; the horses are the Clydesdale and the Lanark,
with a few of the Suffolk and Yorkshire. The natural
wood with which the county formerly abounded has
been greatly diminished, and only some remains are
found on the banks of the rivers. The minerals are not
very important : iron-ore has been wrought, though
the works have long been discontinued ; and there are
indications of lead-ore and coal. Limestone is found
in several parts near the coast, and there are quarries
of excellent freestone ; slate is also wrought in some
places. The rateable annual value of the county is
£99,299. The principal seats are, Innes House, Duffus
House, Damaway Castle, Brodie House, the Grange,
Burgie Castle, Ortown House, and Elchies House.
The chief manufactures are the woollen and cotton, of
which the former has been long established ; there are
likewise some bleaching-grounds, and the spinning of
flax affords employment to a considerable number of
persons. There are some tanneries, and also distilleries
on an extensive scale, the latter paying collectively duties
to government amounting to £50,000 annually. The
county contains numerous remains of antiquity, of
which the chief are the ruins of Elgin cathedral, the
episcopal palace at Spynie, the priory of Pluscardine,
and the castles of Lochandorb, Dunphail, and Relugas :
there are also many memorials of the frequent battles
which occurred between the inhabitants and the Danes,
by whose incursions this part of the country was much
infested.
ELIE, a parish, and burgh of barony, in the district
of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 3 miles (S. S. E.)
from Colinsburgh ; containing 907 inhabitants, of whom
S29 are in the village. This place is supposed to have
derived its name from the marshy nature of the soil
previously to the modern improvements in agriculture,
and a portion of land bordering on the loch of Kilcon-
quhar still retains that character. The manor has been
for many generations in the family of Anstruther, of
whom the first baronet, Sir William Anstruther, repre-
sented the county of Fife from the year 16S1 to 1709,
and was made a lord of session in the reign of Queen
Anne, strenuously exerting himself for the establish-
ment and maintenance of the Protestant religion. A
small harbour on the coast here seems to have been
formerly very much resorted to as a place of safety, in
stress of weather, by ships navigating the Frith of
Forth, as, if they missed this haven, there was no other
till they were driven on the coast of Norway. It was
easy of access, and perfectly secure ; and in a petition
presented to the privy council for its repair, it is stated
that it had afforded protection to more than 300 troops
E L I E
E L L O
that must otherwise have perished in a storm. It is
now in a very ruinous and dilapidated condition, but,
from a survey recently made, it appears that it might
be completely repaired, and rendered one of the best
harbours on the coast of Fife. The parish, separated
from that of Kilconquhar about the year 1639, is two
miles in length, from east to west, and one mile in
breadth, and is bounded on the south by the sea ; it
comprises 15/0 acres, of which 1464 are arable, 50
woodland and plantations, and the remainder pasture
and waste. The surface is generally flat, and the sands
along the shore are peculiarly commodious for bathing :
a small rivulet, issuing from the loch of Kilconquhar,
traverses the parish, and falls into the harbour • but
there is no river.
The soil is mostly dry and sandy, and the crops are,
wheat, barley, oats, and beans, with potatoes and tur-
nips ; the system of agriculture is in a highly improved
state ; the farm-buildings are substantial and commo-
dious, and the lands are chiefly inclosed with fences of
thorn, to which considerable attention is paid. The
plantations consist of beech and Scotch fir. The sub-
stratum is principally whinstone, limestone, sandstone,
shale, and clay, interspersed with ironstone; the limestone
is of inferior quality, and not quarried to any extent.
Coal is thought to abound in this parish, which forms
a section of the great independent coal formation ; but
it is not worked at present, though formerly several pits
were open. The strata of coal are traversed by several
dykes of trapstone, one of which, consisting of basalt,
projects into the sea, and is very compact; the shale in
many places has impressions of various plants, and
stems and branches of trees are found imbedded in the
sandstone. Sauchur Point, a bold headland, consists
of basalt, greenstone, clinkstone, and trap tuffa, and
abounds with a beautiful red gem called the Elie ruby,
which is of a brilliant colour, varying in size from a
garden-pea downwards, and is found only on this part of
the coast. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£3661. Elie House, the property of Sir W. C. Anstru-
ther, is a noble ancient mansion, situated in grounds
which have been tastefully disposed and richly orna-
mented ; but, as the proprietor is not resident, it is not
kept up, and is rapidly falling into dilapidation. The
village, which is much resorted to during the summer
months for sea-bathing, is well built, and has a remark-
ably neat and cheerful aspect : a subscription library
has been established, which contains a tolerably exten-
sive collection of interesting volumes. The post is
daily, and is a branch from the office at Colinsburgh.
A small fishery is carried on by a few of the inhabit-
ants, for the supply of the village ; a packet sails
weekly to Leith, and the Aberdeen and other steam-
vessels touch at this port twice or three times in the
day, both going and returning. The parish is in the
presbytery of St. Andrew's and synod of Fife, and
patronage of Sir W. C. Anstruther ; the minister's sti-
pend is £150, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
about £50 per annum. The church, which was sub-
stantially repaired in 1S31, is a neat and well-arranged
edifice, adapted for a congregation of 600 persons, and
is situated in the centre of the village. The parochial
school affords a good education; the master has a salary
of £40, with £60 fees, &c, a house, and a small garden,
for the deficiency of which he has an allowance of
Vol. I. — 401
£2 per annum. There are revenues vested in the
minister and elders for the use of the poor, amounting
to £73 per annum. A friendly society called the Sea
Box, consisting of masters of vessels and seamen, asso-
ciated for their mutal benefit, obtained from George III.
a charter of incorporation ; the .funds, which are ample,
are derived from land, houses, and other property, and
as the demands are comparatively small, the society is
rapidly increasing its capital.
ELLENABAICH, a village, in the parish of Kil-
brandon and Kilchattan, district of Lorn, county of
Argyll; containing 311 inhabitants. This is a small
place, situated in the Kilbrandon portion of the parish.
ELLENERTON, a village, in the parish of Kirrie-
muir, county of Forfar ; containing 10S inhabitants.
It is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in agricul-
ture and in the manufactures connected with the trade
of the town of Forfar.
ELLIM, county of Berwick. — See Longformacus.
ELLON, a parish, in the district of Ellon, county
of Aberdeen, 16 miles (N. by E.) from Aberdeen; con-
taining 2941 inhabitants. The name of this place is
supposed to be derived from the Gaelic term Aibeaim,
signifying an island, and to have been applied on ac-
count of the situation of a small island in the river
Ythan, near the village, and contiguous to the ferry
formerly used on the principal line of road leading from
Aberdeen to the north-eastern district of the county.
The probability of this derivation is increased by the
circumstance of the word Elleann being inscribed on
some old communion cups presented to the Kirk Session
by the family of Forbes, of Watertown. Ellon was
from a very remote period the seat of the jurisdiction of
the earldom of Buchan, and the court was held in the
open air, on an eminence rising from the bank of the
Ythan, and called originally the " Moot hill of Ellon,"
but in later times the "Earl's hill." The lands formerly
belonged to the Cistercian abbey of Kinloss, in Moray,
and in the thirteenth century Robert I. confirmed to
the abbot the possession of the church of Ellon : at one
period, also, this was a prebendal church of Aberdeen,
and the bishop of that see had considerable lands here.
The parish is mostly situated on the northern bank of
the river Ythan ; it measures between eight and nine
miles in average length, and five in average breadth,
and comprises nearly 20,000 acres, of which about
15,000 or 16,000 are arable, and the remainder moor,
with the exception of 200 acres of plantations. Though
there are no remarkable eminences, the surface is agree-
ably diversified with rising grounds commanding, in a
clear day, extensive prospects, which comprehend the
north-eastern range of the Grampians, Benochie, the
Foudland hills, the summits of some of the Spey-side
mountains, and a long stretch of the German Ocean
reaching from the Girdleness lighthouse on the south,
nearly to Rattray point on the north. The valley of the
Ythan, bisecting the parish from east to west, is joined
on the north by the small valley of Ebrie, extending in
that direction for several miles, and on the south by
that of Brony, which reaches about the same distance
towards the south-west. The river, rising in the parish
of Forgue, falls into the German Ocean at the sands of
Forvie ; it expands, just before it joins the sea, into a
broad shallow basin, and is navigable for lighters to the
meadow of Watertown, about a quarter of a mile below
3F
EL L O
EN HA
the village, where there is a landing-place. The salmon-
fishing on the river was formerly worth several hun-
dreds of pounds per annum ; hut, since the increase of
stake-nets along the coast, it has been almost annihi-
lated. The burns of Ebrie and Brony, however, falling
into the Ythan, are well stocked with salmon-trout,
common burn-trout, and finnock, affording excellent
sport to the angler ; and parties from Aberdeen fre-
quently visit the district in the summer months to en-
joy this recreation.
The soil is in part dry, resting on a gravelly bed ;
clay is found in some places, and there is a very con-
siderable extent of fertile diluvial earth. In the northern
portion, where the higher grounds are, the soil is mossy,
and exceedingly poor, much mixed with white sand, en-
cumbered with loose stones above, and worthless diluvial
deposits below, and totally incapable of profitable culti-
vation. The grain chiefly depended on is oats ; hut
bear, as well as turnips, forms a considerable portion of
the produce, especially the latter. The crops are raised
under the rotation system of husbandry ; and most of
the modern improvements being understood, agriculture
is on a respectable footing, the chief impediment to
more extensive advances being the want of encourage-
ment for the outlay of capital. Threshing-mills are
numerous, and the farm-houses and offices in general
convenient and well built. Sheep-farming is unknown :
the cattle, formerly the Aberdeenshire horned and Angus
polled breeds, have been latterly much mixed with the
Teeswater, which prevails to a considerable extent. Great
encouragement has been afforded in the improvement
of stock by the Formartine Agricultural Association, of
which the Earl of Aberdeen is patron, and most of the
farmers here members. The rocks are all of the primi-
tive formation, and comprise granite, gneiss, quartz, &c.
The impervious nature of the subsoil, and the proximity
of a stormy sea-coast, render the parish unfavourable
to the growth of wood ; and the trees, consisting chiefly
of Scotch fir and larch, are all of inferior size, with the
exception of a few scattered specimens in the neigh-
bourhood of the village. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £9678.
The mansion-house of Arnage, seated in the valley of
the Ebrie, and on the bank of the stream, is an ancient
structure commanding a pleasing view of the scenery
in the immediate locality. Turner Hall, situated on
the estate so called, about two miles north of the vil-
lage, embraces extensive prospects of the German Ocean,
the high grounds of Aberdeen, and several of the moun-
tains in the districts of the Don, the Dee, and the Spey.
There is also a mansion-house on the estate of Esle-
mont, surrounded by fifty or sixty acres of plantation,
ornamentally disposed ; and a fourth, named Dudwick,
a plain old house, occupies a cold marshy situation in
the upland district. Ellon Castle, now deserted, and
almost ruinous, was erected principally about the year
17S0, by the late Earl of Aberdeen, who made it his
residence, and enriched the surrounding grounds with a
variety of plantations, which have since been to a great
extent cut down. The village contains nearly 400 per-
sons, and, being the principal market for a large district,
and the residence of several thriving traders, is the
scene of considerable traffic. There is a general post-
office, and the high road from Aberdeen to Peterhead
and Fraserburgh passes through : a turnpike-road leads
402
to the port of Newburgh, about five miles and a half
distant, and there are also good commutation roads. A
market is regularly held once in every fortnight, for
grain and black-cattle, and is well attended, especially
by the Aberdeen butchers, and dealers in grain, whose
purchases are chiefly for exportation at Newburgh : two
annual fairs take place in the village, and four in its
immediate vicinity. The parish is the seat of the pres-
bytery of Ellon, in the synod of Aberdeen, and is in the
patronage of the Earl of Aberdeen ; the minister's sti-
pend is £219, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £18
per annum. The church, erected in 1777, is a plain
commodious building, accommodating 1200 persons,
and is lighted at the evening service with gas. There
is an episcopal chapel near the village, containing be-
tween 300 and 400 sittings ; also places of worship for
members of the Free Church, Independents, and the
United Secession. The parochial school, situated in the
village, affords instruction in Latin, Greek, French, and
mathematics, in addition to the usual branches ; the
master has a salary of £2S, with a house, and £25 fees.
There is also a school in the northern district, where
instruction is given in the ordinary branches, and the
master of which, besides his salary and fees, has, as
well as the master of the other school, a portion of the
Dick bequest. The parish has a savings' bank and
three friendly societies.
ELLSRICKLE, or Elsridgehill, a village, in the
parish of Walston, Upper ward of the county of
Lanark, ljp mile (S.) from Walston ; containing 211
inhabitants. It lies in the southern part of the parish,
on the road from Peebles to Lanark, and is a pleasantly
situated and picturesque village, of which the scattered
cottages are sheltered by plantations, and trees of larger
growth ; and from the advantages it possesses, and the
liberality of the proprietor of the soil around it, it is
likely to increase in its extent and attractions. A burn
proceeding directly hence unites with several others in
the vale of Ellsrickle. Some of the inhabitants are
employed in hand-loom weaving for the Glasgow manu-
facturers. There is a school, supported partly by con-
tributions from the heritors and partly by the school
fees.
ELPHINSTONE, a village, in the parish of Tra-
nent, county of Haddington, 2 miles (S. by W.) from
Tranent ; containing 236 inhabitants. This village lies
in the southern extremity of the parish, on the road
from Dalkeith, by Penston, to Haddington ; it is chiefly
inhabited by colliers. The lands adjacent were formerly
embellished with woods, of which nearly the whole have
been cut down. The tower of Elphinstone is a square
massive pile of building, supposed to have been erected
in the early part of the 14th century, and in 1600 a
dwelling-house was attached to it, which is still in-
habited ; but the stately trees by which it was sur-
rounded have been removed. A school for the instruc-
tion of the children of persons employed in the collieries
is supported by subscription.
ENGINE, NEW and OLD, hamlets, in the parish
of Newton, county of Edinburgh ; containing respec-
tively 51 and 49 inhabitants.
ENHALLOW, an island, in the parish of Rousay
and Egilshay, county of Orkney ; containing 26 in-
habitants. It is a low and very small islet, somewhat
in the form of a heart, lying to the westward of the
E N Z I
EURO
island of Rousay, from which it is separated by a reef
of rocks. The Sound of Enhallow is on the south,
between this and the island of Pomona, and is narrow ;
but as the tide is rapid, its passage can only be
attempted with a fair wind and in moderate weather, it
being otherwise very dangerous.
ENSAY, an island, in the parish of Harris, island
of Lewis, county of Inverness ; containing 16 inhabit-
ants. It lies in the Sound of Harris, and is about two
miles in length and a mile in breadth ; it has a good
verdant soil, and is well cultivated.
ENZIE, lately a quoad sacra parish, formed of part
of the parishes of Bellie and Rathven, in the county
of Banff, 4 miles (N. E.) from Fochabers ; containing
2103 inhabitants. The district is about six miles in
length and from three to four in breadth, and is
bounded on the north by the Moray Frith, and on the
south by the Aldmore hills and Whiteash. The surface
presents, generally, a very pleasing aspect, considerably
heightened by the interspersion of wood ; and the views
embrace a large extent of the Frith and of the opposite
coast of Ross-shire and Sutherland. The soil is various,
in some places rich and fertile, and in others hard and
thin ; and the crops, which are usually early, consist
chiefly of wheat, oats, and barley, the first being most
cultivated. The Duke of Richmond is the principal
proprietor of the land. On the hill of Parrymont, in
the Rathven portion of the district, is a quarry, whence
an abundance of blue slate and stone flags is obtained ;
and at Gollachie are a woollen-cloth factory and a
car ding-mill. White-fishing is prosecuted with advan-
tage ; cod and haddock are caught in considerable
quantity, and the former, and ling, are cured by the
inhabitants, and disposed of in the southern markets.
There is a salmon-fishing station at Port-Gordon, the
chief village, belonging to a company in the neighbour-
hood ; and here, also, a pretty extensive trade is
carried on in the exportation of grain, and the importa-
tion of coal and salt. Eight or ten vessels belong to
the place, by which the commerce in these articles is
for the most part conducted ; and a kind of temporary
harbour affords them a safe anchorage. The north
coast-road from Banff to Fochabers, and the road from
Keith to Port-Gordon, intersect the district. The
ecclesiastical affairs are controuled by the presbytery of
Fordyce and synod of Aberdeen, and the patronage is
vested in the Committee for managing the Royal
Bounty : the stipend of the minister is £62, and there
is a glebe of eight acres, valued at about £1 per acre,
and for which the minister pays a ground rent of two
bolls of barley. The church is a small structure, built
in 1785, and enlarged by a gallery at the end in 1S15,
and by a side gallery in 1822, and now contains 400
sittings ; it is nearly equidistant from Rathven church
and the church of Bellie, about four miles from each.
The Roman Catholics have a place of worship near
Achinhalrig, a small hamlet, where, and at Starryhaugh
and Curl'urrach, are schools supported by the Society for
Propagating Christian Knowledge ; and at Port-Gordon
is a school maintained by the Duke of Richmond. The
late celebrated Dr. Alexander Geddes, a Roman Catho-
lic divine, and a translator of Horace's Satires, and of a
portion of the Bible, with critical notes, was a native of
the place. Enzie confers the title of Earl on the Mar-
quess of Huntly.
403
ERISKAY, an island, in the parish of South Uist,
county of Inverness ; containing 80 inhabitants. This
is a small isle of the Hebrides, on the south side of
South Uist, from which it is separated by a narrow and
rocky sound. It is noted as having been the first place
upon which the unfortunate prince Charles Stuart
landed, in his wild enterprise to regain the throne of
his ancestors in 1745. The island affords some pas-
turage, and the inhabitants are partly employed in
fishing and in the manufacture of kelp. On a detached
and high rock, at its southern end, are the ruins of an
old square tower.
ERROL, a parish, in the county of Perth ; includ-
ing the villages of Drums, Grange, Leetown, Mains of
Errol, and Westown ; and containing 2832 inhabitants,
of whom 1147 are in the village of Errol, 10 miles (E.)
from Perth, and 12 (S. W. by W.) from Dundee. This
place, of which the name, in the Gaelic language, is
descriptive of its situation as a conspicuous landmark
in the Frith of Tay, was, by charter of William the
Lion, constituted a barony, and granted to the family
of Hay, in the latter part of the twelfth century. A
descendant from the elder branch of that family was, in
the time of James II., created Earl of Errol, and this
title is still possessed by the Hays, though all their
estates here were sold in the reign of Charles I. of Eng-
land, with the exception of the property of Leys, in the
eastern portion of the parish, which, having been con-
veyed in the thirteenth century by the proprietor to a
younger brother, is yet in the hands of his descendants.
The parish is about six miles in length, and of irregular
form, ranging from two miles and a half to three and a
half in breadth ; it is bounded on the south by the
Frith, and comprises S600 acres, of which nearly the
whole is rich arable land in high cultivation, with small
portions of pasture and woodland, chiefly around gen-
tlemen's seats. The surface, though generally level, is
broken by two lofty ridges of varying breadth, which
traverse the western portion of the parish in directions
nearly parallel, and by a smaller ridge almost in a simi-
lar direction, about half a mile distant from the former.
The whole of the coast, which extends for six miles, is
flat, and its elevation not more than twenty feet above
the level of the river, which is here more than two miles
in breadth. From the higher grounds are fine views
of diversified scenery, embracing the Lomond hills,
in the county of Fife, the vale of Strathearn, the hill
of Moncrieff, near the confluence of the Earn and the
Tay, with the summits of the western Highlands of the
county of Perth. The village of Errol, from the beauty
of its situation on the slope of an eminence crowned
with the rich foliage of stately oaks, is a strikingly pic-
turesque feature in the general landscape as seen from
the river at the distance of less than half a mile ; and
the scenery immediately around it abounds with almost
every variety. Beneath the village is one of the largest
plains in the country, bounded on one side by the braes
of the Carse of Gowrie, an extended range of hills cul-
tivated nearly to the summit, and surmounted by the
distant hills of Dunsinnan ; and on the other side by
the Frith, which, from the majestic breadth of its waters,
with numerous vessels constantly passing, forms a fine
contrast to the rich luxuriance of the vale. In the north
and north-west parts of the parish are several pools,
receiving the streams which descend from the higher
3 F2
ERRO
E R R O
grounds, and the water collected by the different drains
that have been formed for carrying off the surface
water from the farms. From these pools issue various
streams, that find their way into the Frith ; the)' are on
an average from ten to fifteen feet in width, and from
two to three feet deep, except after heavy and continued
rains, when they acquire a considerable additional
depth. The only springs are those that have been found
by sinking wells.
The soil in the higher parts of the parish is generalty
a black loam resting upon clay, and occasionally on
gravel ; it is of various depths, and more or less wet in
different, places. On the lower lands the soil is mostly
clay, intermixed with sand, and, by long cultivation and
the plentiful use of manure, has been rendered extremely
fertile. The system of agriculture is good, and the
rotation plan of husbandry adopted ; the crops are,
wheat, barley, oats, turnips, and peas, all of which are
abundant. The farm-buildings have been much im-
proved, and draining has been carried to a considerable
extent; embankments have been also constructed for
protecting the low lands from the inundations of the
Tay. The principal of these was completed by Mr. Allen
in 1S36, when about 100 acres were reclaimed from the
river, now forming some of the richest land on his estate ;
the embankment is forty feet wide at the base, and two
feet on the summit, and is eleven feet high ; the lower
portion of the bank, to the height of four feet, consists
of a wall of dry stones, and the upper of earth and reeds
intermixed with stones. A second embankment has been
more recently constructed by Captain Allen, R.N., on
a similar plan, to the east of Port-Allen, and of greater
extent than the former to the west of the port ; and in
process of time, by continuing these embankments, a
very large portion of most valuable land will be added
to the farms contiguous to the river. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £20,260. There are some
plantations on the banks of the Tay, to resist the incur-
sion of the tide, consisting chiefly of hard- woods : in the
grounds of the principal proprietors the trees are chiefly
larch ; in Errol Park is oak of venerable growth, for
which the soil is well adapted, and in some of the
poorer lands that are uncultivated Scotch fir is predo-
minant. The substrata are chiefly limestone of inferior
quality, which is used for building, and sandstone, tole-
rably fine grained, but not very compact ; and the mine-
rals hitherto found, are calcareous spar, quartz, and
chalcedony. The sandstone is wrought at Clashbennie,
where an extensive quarry has been opened, from which
between 4000 and 5000 tons are annually raised. In
this quarry have been found at different times various
fossils and organic remains ; impressions of small fish
have been frequently discovered, and in 1836 a portion
of stratum was found, in which was an entire impres-
sion of a fish nearly twenty-seven inches and a half in
length, and about thirteen inches in breadth, in form
resembling a tortoise. The upper portion of the stra-
tum, containing the entire body of the fish, was soon
afterwards found, and purchased by the Rev. Mr. Noble,
of St. Madoes. Errol Park is an ancient mansion finely
situated ; the park contains some fine specimens of
stately timber, and the avenue to the house is formed of
lofty oaks of venerable growth. The grounds adjoining
the residences of the other proprietors are also well
planted.
404
The village is irregularly built ; but its situation on an
acclivity, at a moderate distance from the river, gives it
a very pleasing aspect, and it is well inhabited. The
weaving of linen-cloth is carried on for the manufac-
turers of the town of Dundee, and affords employment
to several families ; a considerable number are also
engaged in spinning and winding yarn. A kind of soft
canvass, made from an inferior sort of hemp, is likewise
manufactured here, chiefly for bags and packages for
goods ; and much business is done in a tile and brick
work recently erected, upon a very extensive scale, by
the Messrs. Adams, of Glasgow, on the property of
Captain Allen, to the north of the village, with a view
to promote the draining of the lands in the district.
The salmon and sperling fishery is pursued to a moderate
extent, producing to the proprietors an annual rental of
£300. The navigation of the Tay is confined chiefly to
Port- Allen, where there is a small, but commodious, har-
bour ; and, from the progress which is still being made
in the construction of embankments, the chanuel will be
considerably deepened, and greater facilities of entrance,
afforded for the shipping. The exports are, grain, pota-
toes, and other agricultural produce, and the chief imports
are lime and coal; about 5000 bolls of lime, and 1000
tons of coal, are annually landed. A passage-boat plies
daily between this place and Newburgh, and on its re-
turn brings timber, iron, and other articles of commerce.
The harbour dues are paid to the proprietor ; and the
ferry is also in his possession, and produces a rent of
£200 per annum. About a mile and a half from the
village of Errol, at a place called Flatfield, is a post-office,
which has a branch in the village. Fairs are held in
July and October, the latter having beeu recently re-
vived ; the July fair is numerously attended, though
little business is done, except in hiring farm-servants.
The nearest market-town is Perth, with which, and
with other places in the neighbourhood, a facility of
communication is obtained by good roads, one of which,
a turnpike-road, passes through the parish for several
miles.
Errol is for ecclesiastical purposes included in the
presbytery of Perth and synod of Perth and Stir-
ling ; the minister's stipend is £26S, with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £16 ; patron, Capt. Allen. The
church, pleasantly situated on a gentle acclivity at the
extremity of the village, is a handsome cruciform struc-
ture in the later English style, with a lofty square em-
battled tower crowned by pinnacles ; it was erected in
1832, at an expense of £6000, and is adapted for a con-
gregation of 1434 persons. There are places of worship
for the United Secession, members of the Free Church,
and the Relief Church. The parochial school affords a
useful education ; the salary of the master is £34, with
£35 fees, and a house and garden. There is, in addi-
tion to a small subscription library in the village, an
extensive and valuable library connected with the Sim-
day schools, containing about 400 volumes ; a friendly
society has been established, and a savings' bank opened.
At Clashbennie, and also at Inchmartin, is a solitary
upright stone, of large dimensions but rude form, appa-
rently raised as a memorial of some event not hitherto
ascertained. At Westown, rather more than three miles
from the village of Errol, are the ruins of a small ancient
church, which in old documents is styled "the church
of the Blessed Virgin of Inchmartin," and in which, till
E It S K
ERSK
within the last half century, the ministers of Errol used
to preach every alternate Sunday; the building is most
romantically situated, and interments were not long
since made in the cemetery surrounding it. In the
grounds of Murie is a circular mound, about twenty
feet in height, called the Law Knoll ; the diameter at
the base is about forty yards, and at the summit thirty
feet. The acclivities are planted with trees, and around
the top is a low wall of turf, on the outside of which is
a broad walk ; the base is inclosed in a triangular area
formed by three walls of turf. It is situated at one
extremity of an avenue of lofty oaks leaning in a right
line to a spot anciently called Gallow Knoll, but now
Gallow-flat ; the mound is supposed to be the spot
where the law was once administered, and Gallow-flat
was the place of execution.
ERSKINE, a parish, in the Upper ward of the
county of Renfrew, 10 miles (N. N. W.) from Glasgow ;
containing, with the village of Bishopton, 1407 inha-
bitants. This place, of which the name is of uncertain
origin, is of considerable antiquity : according to most
historians, the lands were conferred upon the founder
of the Erskine family by Malcolm II., in reward of his
valour at the battle of Murthill, in which he slew with
his own hand Enrique, one of the Danish generals,
whose head he presented to that sovereign after the
victory. The parish is beautifully situated on the river
Clyde, and extends along its south bank for nearly
eight and a half miles, increasing in breadth from the
western, where it is less than two miles, to the eastern,
extremity, where it is more than three miles broad. It
is bounded on the east by the parish of Inchinnan, on
the south by that of Houston and Killallan, and on
the west by the parish of Kilmalcolm. The surface,
though level near the shore, rises rapidly towards the
south ; and the higher grounds command diversified
prospects over the Frith of Clyde and the opposite
coast of Dumbartonshire, embracing the castle of Dum-
barton ; on the west of the parish, appear Port-Glasgow
and Greenock, and on the east, the park and pleasure-
grounds of Erskine House, the splendid seat of Lord
Blantyre. The more distant view of Dumbartonshire
abounds with objects of romantic beauty and inter-
esting character ; the vale of Leven is interspersed
with numerous elegant villas, and further off are
seen, in clear weather, the waters of Loch Lomond,
and the lofty mountain of Ben-Lomond. The river
Clyde, near Erskine House, retains its original character,
and its banks are conspicuous for picturesque scenery ;
it is crossed by two ferries within the limits of the
parish. Erskine ferry, which communicates with the
village of Old Kilpatrick, is under good management,
and has an excellent inn, much frequented by parties
of pleasure from Glasgow. The Western ferry, about
six miles from the former, connects the parish with
Dumbarton : it was lately proposed to place it under the
direction of the Glasgow and Greenock Railway Com-
pany, and to erect commodious quays, and establish a
communication by means of a steam-boat with the oppo-
site coast ; but these measures have not been carried
into effect, and the ferry still remains in the hands of
Lord Blantyre, the former proprietor.
The whole number of acres is 7109, of which 5123
are arable, 554 woodland and plantations, S00 meadow
and pasture, and the remainder moss and waste. The
405
soil is various, but in general light ; in the north-
eastern portion, a dark grey mould mixed with gravel ;
and in other places, clay alternated with sand. The
crops are, oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips,
with the usual grasses ; the rotation system of hus-
bandry is prevalent, and much improvement in agri-
culture has been effected under the auspices of Lord
Blantyre. Tile-draining has been extensively introduced,
and works for the making of tiles, for which clay of
excellent quality is found, have been established on
their respective lands by Lord Blantyre and Mr. Rodger ;
the farm-houses are generally substantial and commo-
dious, and most of the lands are inclosed either with
fences of hawthorn, or with walls of stone. The dairy-
farms are well managed : the cows are principally the
Ayrshire, with some few of a mixed breed between the
Ayrshire and Guernsey ; the average number on the
several farms is about 350, and 450 young cows and
black- cattle are pastured on the hills. Few horses are
kept except for agricultural use, and these are usually
of the Clydesdale breed. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £S18'2. The plantations are larch, and
Scotch, spruce, and silver firs ; and the prevailing woods,
oak, elm, beech, ash, walnut, sycamore, and horse-ches-
nut, of which there are some fine trees. The substratum
is partly gravel, mixed with clay, and interspersed with
large boulders of greywacke and granite ; in the south-
eastern part of the parish, carboniferous rock ; and
towards the western extremity, the hills are wholly of
trap rock of porphyritic quality, containing crystals of
felspar, with amygdaloids of calcareous spar. On the
West ferry hill, while cutting through it for the forma-
tion of the Glasgow and Greenock railway, the workmen
discovered some fine basaltic columns ; zeolites have
been found in the trap rocks ; and in the Bishopton
ridge is a new mineral, called " Greenockite" in honour
of Lord Greenock, who discovered it, and which has,
on analysis, proved to be a protosuhhate of cadmium.
There are two quarries of freestone on the lands of
Lord Blantyre, from which were taken materials for the
erection of the church, the mansion-house of Erskine,
and other buildings ; there is a similar quarry on the
lands of Mr. Rodger, and in several parts of the parish
whinstone is wrought for the roads.
Erskine House, beautifully situated on a terrace over-
looking the Clyde, was erected by the late Lord Blantyre
from a design by Sir Robert Smirke, of London ; it
is a fine structure in the Elizabethan style of archi-
tecture, ornamented with richly- crocketed pinnacles,
and forming an imposing and highly interesting feature
in the scenery of the coast. The principal building
is 1S5 feet in length, comprising a splendid suite of
state apartments, a picture gallery US feet in length,
and a stately vestibule and hall: the interior is adorned
with numerous oriel windows of elegant design, and
the internal decorations are costly and magnificent.
The demesne is richly wooded, and embellished with
flourishing plantations ; the pleasure-grounds are taste-
fully laid out, and contain an obelisk erected by the
gentry of Renfrewshire as a tribute of respect to the
memory of the late Lord Blantyre, lord lieutenant of
the county, and major-general in the British army, who
was accidentally shot during the revolution at Brussels
in 1830. Drums is a handsome residence, pleasantly
situated. Finlaystone is a modern mansion, built on
E S K D
E S KD
the site of the ancient castle, the seat of the earls of
Glencairn, where, for the first time after the Reforma-
tion, the sacrament of the Lord's Supper was adminis-
tered by the celebrated John Knox. The vessels used
on that occasion were carefully preserved by the family,
and lent to the parish church of Kilmalcolm ; they
are supposed to have been removed from Finlaystone by
the last Lady Glencairn, who took them with her to
England. Dargavel is an ancient mansion in that style
of French architecture introduced into Scotland by
Mary, Queen of Scots ; it is a castellated structure, of
which the lower story has a groined roof, and it is
flanked with towers in which are loop-holes for the
discharge of musketry.
The population is agricultural ; but some of the
females are employed in the spinning of fine yarn
for the manufacture of thread, first introduced into
Scotland by Miss Shaw, of Bargarran, who, by repeated
efforts, succeeded in producing an article of superior
quality, which, being carried by Lady Blantyre to Bath,
was eagerly purchased by the lace manufacturers of
that neighbourhood, and, under the name of Bargarran
thread, obtained a high price. The making of this
thread is carried on extensively in Paisley, and affords
employment to numbers of the female population of the
district. A post-office has been established at Bishop-
ton, and facility of intercourse with the neighbour-
ing towns is afforded by the road and railway from
Glasgow to Greenock, which pass through the parish,
and by good roads kept in repair by statute labour :
boats, also, from Glasgow to Greenock touch almost
every hour at Erskine ferry. There are some fisheries
on the Clyde, but they are quite unimportant ; the few
salmon taken here are generally sent to Glasgow. The
ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence of
the presbytery of Greenock and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr ; the minister's stipend is £279, with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £9. 12. 9- per annum : patron, Lord
Blantyre. The church, having become ruinous, was
taken down in IS 13, and a new church erected near its
site, on ground given by Lord Blantyre ; it is a neat
structure in the Elizabethan style of architecture, con-
taining 500 sittings. There is likewise a place of wor-
ship for members of the Free Church. A parochial
library, containing about 400 volumes, is supported
by subscription. The parochial school, for which a
handsome and spacious building has been recently
erected, is well attended ; the master has a salary of
£30, with a good house, and the fees average £30 per
annum. There is also a subscription school, lately re-
built. A friendly society until recently contributed
greatly to the diminution of pauperism, and a savings'
bank was likewise in operation, in which there were de-
posits to a moderate amount.
ESKDALEMUIR, a parish, in the county of Dum-
fries, 13 miles (N. W.) from Langholm ; containing
646 inhabitants. This parish, as its name partly im-
ports, consists of the lands lying at the head of Eskdale,
which were originally possessed by the clan of Beat-
tieson, but which passed into other hands under the
following circumstances. Cardinal Beaton and Robert
Lord Maxwell, according to tradition, were sent by
James V. as ambassadors to France, in the year 1537,
to conclude a marriage between that sovereign and
Mary of Guise, when Lord Maxwell, by commission, as
406
proxy for the king, married the princess, and, having,
with the cardinal, conducted her to Scotland, received
as a reward from the crown the lands comprehended
under the name of the Five Kirks of Eskdale. Lord
Maxwell at once offered the occupiers a title to their
several possessions on certain specified conditions ; but,
indignant at the royal grant, they objected, and matters
ran into such severe altercation, that he was obliged
to flee to save his life, and shortly afterwards he sold
the estate to Scott of Branxholm, ancestor of the ducal
family of Buccleuch, leaving him to obtain possession
as well as he could. Upon this, Scott, who was warden
of the middle marches between Scotland and England,
having raised numerous friends, proceeded to Eskdale-
muir, and expelled all the clan of Beattieson, except
Roland Beattie, of Watcarrick, who had saved Lord
Maxwell's life by lending him a horse on which to
escape from the malcontents, and to whom that noble-
man had confirmed a tenant-right in his property.
Having thus cleared the domain, Scott g'ave feu rights
of the greater part of it to his relations and depend-
ents.
Eskdalemuir was originally a part of the parish of
Westerkirk, but was erected in 1/03 into a separate
parish ; it is the largest in the county, being about
twelve miles long, from north to south, and eight miles
broad, and contains 42,250 acres. The surface is
strongly marked in the northern portion by part of a
chain of mountains extending from the sources of the
Clyde and Annan on the west to the source of the
Tyne, in Northumberland, in the east : the highest hills
are Lochfell and Eskdale pen. The White and Black Esk,
so named from the sandy and mossy soils over which
they run, take their rise in this parish, and, uniting at
its southern extremity, form that beautiful river which,
after receiving many tributary streams, loses itself in
the Solway at Longtown, in Cumberland. There are
three celebrated cascades called Goat-linn, Wellsburn
Spout, and the Garvald Linns. The soil is deep in
many parts, but is not fertile, on account of the elevated
site of the district ; the hills towards the south are
green, but the more retired parts are moss, covered
with coarse grass and different kinds of water-plants.
The number of acres cultivated, or occasionally in
tillage, is 482, the rest remaining constantly in pasture :
there is very little wood to be seen in any direction.
This is chiefly a grazing parish : the sheep, with a very
few exceptions, are all Cheviots, and the cattle are of
the Galloway breed, with some Ayrshire and Dutch ;
both are usually taken to the Langholm and Lockerbie
markets. Many improvements have been effected by
the embankment of the rivers, by mole-catching to a
surprising extent, and by surface-draining, there being
now nearly 400,000 roods of drains in the parish. The
ring fences around the inclosed lands are commonly of
stone, the subdivisions of thorn, and the march dykes
between farms always of stone. The strata consist of
greywacke and other transition rocks ; the common
fuel is peat, of which there is an abundant supply. The
parish roads extend about twenty miles in length ; and
there are several bridges over the rivers, of which
one, erected across the; Black Esk, is on the line of
road to Lockerbie, Lochmaben, Dumfries, and Moffat.
The rateable annual value of Eskdalemuir is £6766.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the pres-
ETTR
ETTR
bytery of Langholm and synod of Dumfries ; patron,
the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensberry. The stipend
is £221, with a good manse, and a glebe of considerable
extent, valued at £20 per annum. The church stands
nearly in the centre of the parish, on the bank of the
White Esk; it was built in 1S26, and is a commodious
and elegant structure, containing sittings for 393
persons. The Reformed Presbyterians have a place
of worship. There is a parochial school, in which
Latin, Greek, and French are taught, with the usual
branches of education ; the master has a salary of £34,
with about £10 fees, and a house and garden. A
library has been lately instituted, and is in a prosperous
state. The chief relic of antiquity is the camp desig-
nated Castle-O'er, or Overbie, which is situated on the
farm of Yetbyre, and though of an oval form, is gene-
rally considered as of Roman origin, and to have com-
municated with the camps of Middlebie and Netherbie :
there is scarcely a hill within sight of it on which
there is not 'some vestige of an outer encampment.
Another camp, however, has more recently been dis-
covered on the farm of Raeburnfoot, and has led to the
opinion that the former is a Saxon work, and the latter
the true Roman camp of Overbie ; it exhibits all the
lineaments, as far as they are visible, of a most com-
plete military station, with the prffitorium and every
other mark of a Roman work. Were the lines on the
west side of the entrances extended as far as those on
the eastern side, so as to make it a square, it would
cover seven acres. There are two Druidical circles on
the farm of Coatt, measuring in circumference ninety
feet and 340 feet, respectively. The parish and ad-
joining district confer the title of Baron Scott and
Eskdale on the Duke of Buccleuch.
ESSIE, county of Aberdeen. — See Rhynie.
ESSIE, Forfarshire. — See Eassie.
ETTRICK, a parish, in the county of Selkirk, 18§
miles (S. W.) from Selkirk; containing 525 inhabitants.
The name, of uncertain origin, is supposed by some to
be in the Gaelic language descriptive of the river on
which Ettrick is situated. The parish is about ten
miles in length, and nearly of equal breadth in the
widest part, and comprises 43,96*S acres, of which 217
are arable, 120 meadow, 270 woods and plantations,
150 water, and the remainder pasture. The surface is
broken by numerous hills, some of which are of moun-
tainous height, and all covered with verdure from their
base to their summit, with the exception only of a few
whose brows and summits of heath add to the variety
and beauty of the landscape. Ettrick Pen, the highest
of these mountains, has an elevation of 2200, Wardlaw
of 19S0, and Old Ettrick hill of 1800 feet above the level
of the sea. The chief river is the Ettrick, which rises
on the south side of a mountainous ridge, between
Loch-fell and Capel-fell, and in its progress through the
parish receives numerous streams descending from the
heights ; it generally flows with an equable and tranquil
current, but, when swollen by continued rains, it ac-
quires the impetuosity of a torrent, and, frequently
bursting its banks, inundates the adjacent lands. After
leaving the parish, it pursues a north-eastern direction,
and falls into the Tweed near Abbotsford. The Timah,
a small rivulet, has its source in the hills on the con-
fines of the parish of Eskdalemuir, and, after a course
of about six miles through this parish, falls into the
407
Ettrick near the church : the Rankleburn, also a small
rivulet, rises near the source of the Timah, and joins the
Ettrick not far from the ruins of the castle of Tushie-
law. These streams abound with trout ; and in the
Ettrick, salmon and sea-trout are found in the ordinary
seasons.
The soil is very various ; on the summits of the
hills, a deep moss ; on the slopes, a mossy gravel ; on
the low lands, a rich alluvial deposit, and in general
fertile. The crops are, oats and barley, with potatoes
and turnips ; the system of agriculture is improved ;
the lands have been drained and partially inclosed, and
the farm-buildings are commodious and well built. The
principal attention, however, is paid to the rearing and
pasture of sheep and cattle ; the Cheviot breed of sheep
has altogether superseded the old black-faced kind, and
the average number annually pastured in the parish
may be taken as about 26,000. Recently, Highland
Kyloes have been introduced on some of the farms, and
eat the refuse of the pastures, and render them more
fertile. The milch-cows are all of the short-horned and
Ayrshire breeds, and about 400 head of black-cattle are
pastured every year. A due degree of attention to the
improvement of live stock has been excited by the
Pastoral Society, instituted in ISIS, under the patron-
age of the late Lord Napier, and which holds one of its
annual meetings here. The rateable value of Ettrick is
£7S44. Though formerly part of an extensive forest,
there is very little old timber in the parish ; the chief
trees are, the mountain and common ash, birch, alder,
willow, and thorn. The plantations, which are of com-
paratively recent formation, consist of Scotch and spruce
firs and larch, intermixed with the various kinds of
forest trees ; they are well managed, and in a flourish-
ing condition. The principal substrata are greywacke
and clay-slate, of which the rocks are formed. A small
nodule of antimony was once found in the channel of a
burn, near the source of the Ettrick, but, after diligent
search, no further appearance of it could be ascertained ;
pyrites of iron have been also discovered occasionally,
and near the loch of the Lowes, which borders on the
parish, is a black rock of glossy appearance, supposed
to consist of aluminous slate. Thirlstane, the seat of
Lord Napier, is a handsome mansion of modern erection,
situated in a romantic and deeply-sequestered spot.
Facility of communication is afforded by excellent roads,
which traverse the parish for an extent of thirty miles,
opening an easy intercourse between its most distant
parts and with all the neighbouring towns. All were
constructed, and brought to their present state of perfec-
tion, under the persevering efforts of the late Lord Napier,
to whom the parish is deeply indebted for its present
improved condition, and by whose liberality numerous
pleasing and comfortable cottages have been spread
over a tract of land previously little better than a dreary
desert. Fairs are held in the end of March, for the sale
of ewes and the hiring of farm-servants and shepherds ;
in the end of July, for lambs and wool, and the transac-
tion of general business ; at the end of September, for
draft ewes, young Iambs, and fat sheep ; and in Novem-
ber, for fat sheep for the markets. The September fair
is the most numerously attended, and generally nearly
1 0,000 head of stock are exposed for sale. There is a
small prison called the " Round House," near the ground
where the fairs are held.
EVAN
E V I E
Ettrick is in the presbytery of Selkirk and synod of
Merse and Teviotdale, and patronage of Lord Napier;
the minister's stipend is £229. 9. 7-, with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £28 per annum. The church, situated
nearly in the centre of the parish, was rebuilt upon a
larger scale in 1S24 ; it is a neat and handsome edifice,
adapted for a congregation of about 450 persons. The
parochial school affords a liberal course of instruction ;
the master has a salary of £34 per annum, with £15
fees, and a house and garden. A parochial library,
containing more than 800 volumes, has been maintained
by subscription and donations, to which Lord Napier
has largely contributed ; and a Bible and Missionary
Society is also supported here, under the patronage of
his lordship. In the retired valley of the Rankleburn,
which is inclosed with lofty and precipitous hills, are
two farm-steads called the Buccleuchs, from which the
family of Scott take their ducal title ; and in a deep
ravine leading from them to the Hawick road, is the
spot where the buck was killed, from which circum-
stance the name of these lauds is said to have been de-
rived. About a mile from the farm, and on the bank of
the burn, may still be traced the foundations and part
of the walls of the church or chapel of Buccleuch. On
the road on the banks of the Ettrick are the ruins of
the ancient castle of Tushielaw, formerly the stronghold
of the Scott family, noted for their predatory excursions
in the neighbourhood, and of whom two individuals
were convicted, in the reign of James V., of exacting
black mail, and the one hanged on a tree near the gate
of his castle, and the other beheaded at Edinburgh, and
his head fixed on the Tolbooth. About two miles from
this spot are the remains of the ancient baronial castle
of Thirlstane, surrounded by some ash-trees of very
ancient growth ; and on the opposite bank of the Ettrick
are the ruins of the castle of Gamescleuch, the resi-
dence of a branch of the family of the Scotts of Thirl-
stane. On the lands of the farm of Kirkhope may be
traced the boundaries of a cemetery formerly belonging
to some church or chapel of which there are no vestiges
remaining ; and near the farm of Chapelhope are the
site and foundations of another church or chapel, with a
cemetery attached. An ancient tripod and two stone
hatchets were found some years since, and are now in
the possession of Lord Napier. About a quarter of a
mile from the church was till lately a house, with a gable
end, fronting the road, in which was born James Hogg,
the Ettrick shepherd. Alexander Cunningham, minis-
ter to the state of Venice in the reign of George I., and
author of a History of Great Britain from the Revolu-
tion in 16SS till the Accession of George I., written in
Latin, and long after his decease translated into Eng-
lish, and published, in 17S7, by Dr. William Thomson,
was born here during the incumbency of his father.
Boston, author of the Fourfold State, was minister of
Ettrick from 1707 to 1732.
ETTRICK-BRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Yar-
row, county of Selkirk, 7 miles (\V. S. W.) from Sel-
kirk, containing 108 inhabitants. It is situated in the
eastern part of the parish, on the Ettrick water, and
is chiefly inhabited by persons engaged in handicraft
trades. There are a church and school in the village.
EVANTON, a village, in the parish of Kiltearn,
county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 462 inha-
bitants. This village had no existence five- and- thirty
40S
years ago ; it is built upon a waste piece of land, con-
sists of about a hundred houses, and is of very regular
and neat appearance. Two fairs, neither of them well
attended, owing to the convenient supply of necessaries
from the shops in the village, are held on the first
Tuesdays in June and December. The United Seces-
sion have a place of worship here ; and there is a
school.
EVIE and RENDALL, a parish, in the county of
Orkney; containing, with the island of Gairsay, 151S
inhabitants, of whom 907 are in Evie, 18 miles (N. W.
by N.) from Kirkwall. These two ancient parishes,
which appear to have been united since the time of the
Reformation, are situated on the mainland of the Ork-
ney Isles, and are bounded on the north by the Atlantic
Ocean ; on the north-east and east by Enhallow Sound
or Frith, which separates them from the islands of
Rousay and Shapinshay ; on the south by the parish of
Firth ; and on the west by the parish of Birsay and
Harray. The coast is not distinguished by any of those
prominent features which are so conspicuous on the
shores of the other islands ; the chief headland is Costa,
at the northern extremity of Evie, a bold hill rising
from a wide base to a considerable elevation, and pre-
senting towards the sea a large mass of precipitous
rock. On the east, opposite to the deeply indented bay
of Woodwick, is the island of Gairsa)', forming a part
of Rendall, from the main portion of which it is sepa-
rated by a narrow sound. This island is of nearly cir-
cular form, and about four miles in circumference ; the
ground rises from the shore, and terminates towards
the centre in a beautiful green hill, on the summit of
which is a cairn.
The surface is diversified with hills forming a conti-
nuous range, averaging from 300 to 400 feet in elevation
above the level of the sea, and dividing the parish from
Birsay and Harray ; and with several smaller hills,
between which are some pleasing and fertile valleys.
Towards the sea it has a gentle declivity, varying from
half a mile to nearly a mile and a half in breadth. On
the boundary between Evie district and Birsay is a
beautiful lake, about two miles in length, and half a
mile broad, in the centre of which is a small island ; it
abounds with trout of excellent quality, and, though of
no great depth, is found very serviceable in propelling a
corn-mill during the summer, when other mills are use-
less from want of water. The soil is partly a rich
black loam, and partly clay alternated with sand, and in
Rendall is of lighter quality than in Evie ; there is a
very considerable, deposit of marl on the shores of
•Woodwick bay, and in the valleys which intersect the
hills is an abundance of peat-moss. Peat bogs occur in
the lower lands, and in Rendall is a valley of peat-moss,
which is almost impracticable from the number of roots
and branches of trees imbedded in the soil. There is
no timber of any kind, and the only trees are some
recently planted in the manse garden, of which the per-
manent growth seems very doubtful. The land in cul-
tivation yields favourable crops, and the pastures are
fertile ; the natural grasses are thickly interspersed with
wild flowers of every description : the cattle and sheep
reared in the parish thrive well. The rocks are all of
the secondary formation, and vary from blue slate to
white sandstone. There is no village : fairs for cattle
and horses are held in June and October. Cod, ling,
E WES
EYE M
haddock, dog-fish, skate, halibut, and the young of coal-
fish are found in abundance off the coast, and many of
the inhabitants occasionally engage in the herring-
fisheries, but, though the place is admirably suited for
the purpose, no regular fishing establishment has been
settled here.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Kirkwall and synod of Ork-
ney. The minister's stipend is £154. 6., of which more
than half is paid from the exchequer, with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £50 per annum ; patron, the Earl of
Zetland. There was originally a church in each of the
united districts, but, both falling into decay towards
the close of the last century, one church was erected in
a centrical situation in 1799> by the heritors, in lieu of
the two; it is a neat structure containing 498 sittings.
There are places of worship for members of the Free
Church, and Independents. The parochial school is
well attended ; the master has a salary of £30, out of
which he pays £4 to an assistant for teaching a small
number of children in the island of Gairsay ; he has
also a house and garden. A school is supported by
the Society for the Propagation of Christian Knowledge.
Along the shores of the parish are numerous Picts'
houses, and in Evie several tumuli, some of which, on
being opened, were found to contain small areas from
one to two feet square, inclosed with fiat' stones, and
about eighteen inches in depth, and in which were
ashes, charcoal, and small fragments of burnt bones.
In 1S32, on taking down an old farm-building in Ken-
dall, 150 silver coins were found wrapped in coarse
woollen-cloth, in a hole in one of the walls, supposed
to have been concealed there during the visit of Crom-
well ; they were of the reigns of Elizabeth, James, and
Charles I., with a few of Scottish currency.
EWE, an island, in the parish of Gairloch, county
of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 34 inhabitants. It
is situated in Loch Ewe, on the western coast of the
county ; it is about two miles in length, and in some
parts nearly a mile in breadth, and is a fertile and well-
cultivated isle, upon the improvement of which much
care and expense have been bestowed. The loch is
between eight and ten miles long, and into its inner
part pours the beautiful stream of the Ewe, which is the
natural outlet from Loch Maree : this stream is cele-
brated for the abundance of its salmon.
EWES, a parish, in the county of Dumfries,
4 miles (N.) from Langholm ; containing 32S inhabit-
ants. Ewesdale, the former appellation of this place,
has been long contracted into Ewes, the name of its
chief river, so called from the Celtic Uisge, signifying
water. The parish is eight miles in length, and about
five and a half in breadth, and contains 31,000 acres;
it is bounded on the north and east by Roxburghshire,
on the south by Langholm parish, and on the west by
that of Westerkirk. It is pastoral and mountainous,
and the country on both sides of the river Ewes, which
runs through the parish for eight miles, is marked by
numerous hills, nearly all green, with the exception of
a few parts overspread with heath, and affording cover
and food for various kinds of game. The rivers abound
in fish. In the low lands by the Ewes the soil is light
and gravelly, and produces, in favourable seasons, good
crops of oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips ; on the
higher grounds it approximates to a deep loam. The
Vol. I.— 409
number of arable acres is 1100, of natural pasture
■23,169, and in wood and plantations 200. The cattle
are of the Galloway breed, and the sheep are the Che-
viots, and in general amount to about 18,000; the
parish consumes the produce of the ground at home,
the chief profit consisting in the sale of wool, sheep, arid
cattle. All the necessary improvements have been car-
ried into effect, and the farm-buildings are in the best
order. The principal rocks are greywacke and grey-
wacke slate. The means of communication are good ;
the great road from Edinburgh, by Carlisle, to London
runs for eight miles within the parish, and there are two
other public roads, one of which leads to the east, and
the other to Dumfries and Moffat. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £4951. The ecclesiastical affairs
are directed by the presbytery of Langholm and synod
of Dumfries; patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. The sti-
pend is £'2(21, with a good manse and offices, and a
glebe of thirty arable acres. The church, an ancient
structure, was repaired in 1831, and contains 200 sit-
tings. There is a parochial school, in which the usual
branches are taught, with French, Latin, Greek, and
mathematics ; the master has the maximum salary, with
about £5 fees, and the legal accommodations. Some
almshouses were founded in 1761, by the Rev. Mr.
Malcolm, minister of the parish, for the support of
four of the poorest families, to whom the Duke of Buc-
cleuch gives about half an acre of ground for a garden.
On the farm of Unthank, in the parish, are remains of
a chapel connected with Melrose Abbey ; the burial-
ground is still in use. There are also vestiges of two
encampments, either Saxon or Pictish.
EYEMOUTH, a sea-port, burgh of barony, and
parish, in the county of Berwick, 3 miles (N. E.) from
Ayton, and 8 (N. N. W.) from Berwick ; containing
1401 inhabitants. This place, which derives its name
from its situation at the influx of the river Eye into the
sea, appears to have been indebted for the degree of
importance it possessed at a remote period to its con-
nexion with the priory of Coldingham, to which it seems
to have been granted by charter in the reign of William
the Lion. From its advantageous position, it was pro-
bably early made available as a port for the landing
and embarking of pilgrims visiting the priory, and for
the supply of that establishment with various stores for
the use of its numerous fraternity. Few events of his-
torical importance are recorded in relation to the place
prior to the erection of a fortress here by the Duke of
Somerset in his invasion of the country in the year
154", and which was dismantled on the conclusion of a
treaty of peace between England and France in 1550;
it was afterwards restored and garrisoned for a time, but
was finally demolished at the period of the union of the
two kingdoms. The town, which is pleasantly situated
at the mouth of the river Eye, is irregularly built, but
contains many good houses ; it is chiefly inhabited by
persons employed in the corn trade, which is carried on
to some extent, in the fisheries, and in the various
handicraft trades requisite for the neighbourhood. The
streets are well paved, and the inhabitants are supplied
with water conveyed by iron pipes. The approaches
are commodious, and a good bridge has been built
across the Eye, near which the turnpike-road to Ayton
branches off in two directions, the one leading by the
north, and the other by the south, bank of the river.
3 G
E Y EM
E Y E M
A chain-bridge, also, has recently been thrown over the
Eye, by Capt. Brown, to form a readier communication
with his estate of Netherbyres. A parochial library is
supported by subscription, and has a tolerable collection
of volumes on divinity and other subjects.
The trade in grain, since the establishment of the
market, has been rapidly increasing, and is now very
extensive. The quantity of grain sold in the first year
after the opening of the market was estimated at
£20,000 ; warehouses have been erected on the quay,
and a spacious building formerly used for barracks has
been converted into a store-house. On the river is a
mill for preparing pearl-barley and oatmeal, of which
great quantities are shipped for London. The manu-
facture of paper has been established at Millbank, on
the borders of the parish, where a spacious mill with
the requisite machinery has been erected, in which a
considerable number of persons are employed ; and at
Gunsgreen, adjoining the harbour, but in Ayton pa-
rish, a distillery was till lately at work. The post-office,
which has a good delivery, is a branch of the office at
Ayton. The market is on Thursday, and is abundantly
supplied with grain, and numerously attended ; and
two fairs are annually held here, but very little business
is transacted. A lucrative fishery is carried on off the
coast ; the fish usually taken are, cod, haddock, and
herrings. In the cod and haddock fishery about fifteen
boats are regularly engaged, each of which is managed
by six men, and the yearly produce is estimated at
£3000. The herring-fishery is also very productive,
and in 1820 afforded employment to more than 100
boats, whose cargoes in that year amounted to 10,000
barrels ; but since that time it has materially diminished.
The cod, either dried or pickled, is generally sent to
London ; the red or smoked herrings to London, Hull,
Glasgow, and Newcastle ; and the white or pickled her-
rings to Ireland, and the ports of the Baltic.
The business of the port consists chiefly in the ex-
portation of grain and the produce of the fisheries and
distillery ; and in the importation of timber, bones for
manure, rags for the paper manufacture, coal, slates,
bricks and tiles, freestone, and paving stones, with
various articles of general merchandise. The exports
in a recent year were, 850 quarters of wheat, 4300
quarters of barley, 2800 quarters of oats, and 2800
gallons of spirits j the quantity of coal imported was
2367 tons, and the whole number of vessels that en-
tered the port was 198. The harbour, which, previously
to the year 1770, was exposed to the north-east winds,
was then much improved and rendered more secure by
the erection of a pier and breakwater under the direc-
tion of Mr. Smeaton ; and it has been subsequently
enlarged and deepened by the removing of shingle and
the clearing away of rocks. In 1844, an extensive
additional pier was completed. The depth of water at
spring tides is sixteen feet, and at neap tides ten feet ;
and from its situation in the German Ocean, and its
facility of access, the harbour is much frequented by
vessels detained by contrary winds. The custom-house
is superintended by a principal coast-officer and two tide-
waiters, who reside on the spot ; and the care and
management of the port are under the controul of a
board of trustees appointed by act of parliament. The
town was erected into a burgh of barony by charter
granted in 1597, by James VI., in favour of Sir George
410
Home, of Wedderburn, with all the usual privileges,
and is governed by a baron-bailie appointed by the
superior of the barony. With the consent of the supe-
rior, the burgesses had power to elect magistrates, to
erect a gaol, and hold courts for the trial of all offences
not capital, and for the determination of civil pleas to an
unlimited amount, together with a weekly market and
two annual fairs ; but the only jurisdiction exercised by
the bailie is the occasional holding of a court for the
determination of petty causes.
The parish is about a mile and a half in length, and
nearly of equal breadth, and comprises 880 acres, of
which, with the exception of about 20 in woodland,
plantation, and a few acres of pasture, the whole is
arable. The surface is varied, and in some parts rocky,
and the scenery is diversified with wood and water.
The river Eye has its source at Dodhill, in the parish of
Oldhamstocks, and, after flowing through Cockburns-
path, Coldingham, and Ayton, forms the eastern boun-
dary of this parish for about a mile, and falls into the sea.
The Ale, a small rivulet, runs for some miles through a
picturesque valley, then constitutes the southern boun-
dary, and joins the Eye at the south-eastern extremity
of the parish. The soil is every where extremely rich
and fertile ; the system of agriculture is in a very ad-
vanced state, and the four and six shift rotations of
husbandry equally prevail : the crops are, wheat, barley,
oats, potatoes, and turnips. Bone-dust and sea-wrack
are amply used for manure ; the lands are well drained
and inclosed, and all the more recent improvements in
implements have been adopted. The sheep are of the
Leicestershire breed, and the cattle of the short-horned
or Teeswater; very few of either are reared in the parish,
but a considerable number are bought, and fed for the
market on turnips and grass. The chief substrata are,
greywacke, greywacke slate, and old red sandstone, with
rocks of trap and porphyry ; there is also a rock of
breccia or coarse conglomerate, forming the promontory
that bounds the bay. This stone, of which the break-
water and quays of the harbour were constructed, is of
excellent quality ; it is occasionally quarried for build-
ing, and can be raised in masses of any size. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £2683. The manor-
house of Linthill is an ancient edifice, pleasantly situated
on the banks of the Ale, near its influx into the river
Eye, and commands a finely-varied prospect, embracing
the harbour, with the shipping, and the sea in the dis-
tance. The parish is in the presbytery of Chirnside and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and patronage of the
Crown ; the minister's stipend is £130. 19. 6., exclusively
of a composition for tithes of fish, for which each boat
pays £1. 13. 4., with an excellent manse, and a glebe of
above 9 acres. The church, situated in the centre of
the town, was erected in 1812 ; it is a neat edifice with
a tower, containing little exterior embellishment, and is
adapted for a congregation of 450 persons. There are
places of worship for the Free Church, the Secession, and
Primitive Methodists. The parochial school affords a
liberal course of instruction; the master has a salary
of £34, with £23 fees, and a house and garden. There
are some remains of the fort erected by the Duke of
Somerset, occupying a considerable site on the promon-
tory projecting into the sea, which, from its command-
ing position, affords an extensive prospect : little is left
except the foundations, now covered with verdure, but
FAIR
F A L A
it would appear to have been a place of great extent
and of massive proportions. The adjacent grounds
have been tastefully laid out, and form an interesting
and much frequented promenade. Eyemouth gave the
title of Baron to the great Duke of Marlborough.
F
FAIFLEY, a village, in that part of the parish
of Old Kilpatrick which formed the late quoad
sacra parish of Duntocher, county of Dumbarton,
2£ miles (E. N. E.) from Old Kilpatrick ; containing
321 inhabitants. This place is in the vicinity of Dun-
tocher, and is one of several villages within a mile of
each other on the northern side of the Clyde, owing
their prosperity to the recent introduction of the cotton
and woollen manufactures, and the erection of mills,
steam-engines, and other machinery and facilities for
their production, chiefly through the spirit and enter-
prise of Mr. William Dunn, a resident proprietor of
land here. About the year IS 12, Mr. Dunn purchased
the mill of the Faifley Spinning Company, by whom
this branch of business had been carried on for some
time previously, but on a limited scale ; and having
made large additions to the buildings, and invited the
industry of the inhabitants by the most liberal en-
couragement, the village soon increased in extent and
population. Besides the spinning and weaving of cotton,
the chief product of the place, there are iron- works, in
which spades, shovels, and other articles are made ; and
some minor manufactures. The principal stream in the
parish, which issues from two lochs behind the Kil-
patrick braes, passes here, and falls into the Clyde at
Dalmuir. There are two small schools.
FAIR, an island, forming part of the parish of Dun-
rossness, in the county of Shetland ; and containing
232 inhabitants. It lies between the Orkney and Shet-
land groups, and is about three miles in length and
nearly two in breadth, rising into three lofty promon-
tories, and encompassed with precipitous rocks. The
island is every where inaccessible, except upon the
south-east, where, lowering itself a little, it affords a
safe station for small vessels. The Sheep Craig, one of
the promontories, is nearly insulated, rising from the
sea in a conical shape to an elevation of 480 feet. The
soil is moderately fertile, and the hills are clothed with
excellent pasturage for sheep ; the place is thickly peo-
pled, and the inhabitants are chiefly engaged in the
taking of saith, about forty tons of which, when dried,
they send annually to the Leith market : the ling and
cod fishing formerly prosecuted has been discontinued
on account of its distance from the island. The houses
are clustered together on the southern shores in the
form of small hamlets, or, as they are here called, towns,
and are named respectively Seutter, Taing, Shirva, Leogh,
Bousta, and Gelah. A substantial church, capable of
accommodating 120 persons, was built by the proprietor
of the isle many years ago, at a cost of £150, and is
distant from the parish church thirty-five miles. There
is also a good school. In 15SS, the flag-ship of the Duke
de Medina-Sidonia, the admiral of the Spanish armada,
was wrecked on this island, and tradition points out the
humble residence of the shipwrecked commander.
411
FAIRLIE, a village, and lately a quoad sacra dis-
trict, in the parish of Largs, district of Cunninghams,
county of Ayr, 3 miles (S. by E.) from Largs ; contain-
ing 521 inhabitants. This district consists of the south-
ern division, and comprehends about one-third, of the
parish of Largs ; it is bounded on the west by the Frith
of Clyde, and the land rises rather abruptly from the
shore, and terminates in two distinct chains of hills on
each side of the Kelburn. The loftiest of these hills
attains an elevation of nearly 2000 feet, and their sub-
strata are red and white freestone to the height of be-
tween 300 and 500 feet, and whinstone on the upper
range : at the division of the hills, pudding-stone abounds.
Of 5000 acres, not more than 200 or 250 are under
tillage, and about the same quantity in natural wood
and plantations ; the low parterres of Kelburn, the
richest in Ayrshire, let at from five to six pounds per
acre. The chief owner of the soil is the Earl of Glas-
gow, whose seat of Kelburn is a beautiful mansion, of
which the more substantial part was built in 1556, and
the principal modern additions in 1715.
The village of Fairlie is seated on the coast of the
Clyde, and on the line of the turnpike-road from Greenock
to Ayr ; it is a very pleasant little place, much fre-
quented during the summer and autumn by visiters who
resort hither from the large and populous towns for the
benefit of the sea air and for bathing. The climate is
remarkably salubrious ; and the retired and picturesque
character of the vicinity, ornamented with numerous
villas and much beautiful scenery, renders it a popular
and very favourite spot, preferred by many strangers
to the bustling town of Largs, also a well-frequented
watering-place. There is much cod, ling, and haddock
fishing, and herrings are occasionally caught : at Kel-
burn is a salmon-fishery. Steam-boats from Glasgow
and Greenock call at the village daily in summer. The
ecclesiastical affairs are under the presbytery of Greenock
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and the patronage is
vested in the Managers and Communicants : the stipend
is £75, arising from seat-rents and from ordinary, and
two special, collections. The church was built in 1833-4,
at an expense of about £650, and contains 300 sittings.
The members of the Free Church have a place of wor-
ship. There is an excellent school-house, of which the
master has the interest of £300, bequeathed by Lady
Jane Boyle, sister of the Earl of Glasgow, and of £100
added by Glasgow gentlemen who have summer resi-
dences around Fairlie : the noble proprietor of Kelburn
has also given him a house. Attached to the church is
a library, and another to the school. Of Fairlie Castle,
a strong square building, said to have belonged to Hardi-
canute, the walls are still entire ; and near it, but in
West Kilbride parish, are remains of an ancient chapel,
round which are some fine old trees. Kelburn confers
the title of Viscount on the Earl of Glasgow.
FALA and SOUTRA, a parish, partly in the county
of Haddington, but chiefly in that of Edinburgh ;
containing, with part of the village of Faladam, 393
inhabitants, of whom 112 are in the village of Fala,
S| miles (S. E.) from Dalkeith. The name of Fala is
derived from Fah, in the Anglo-Saxon, " speckled," and
law, the description of hill upon which the church
stands: Soulra signifies "the hamlet with a prospect."
In 1164, an hospital for the relief of pilgrims, dedicated
to the Holy Trinity, was founded at Soutra by Mal-
3 G2
F A L A
FALK
colm IV., who conferred upon it the privilege of' sanc-
tuary ; and its endowments, which were very extensive,
embraced the churches of Soutra, Wemyss, in Fife, St.
Giles of Comiston, and several others. The revenues
were subsequently vested in Trinity College and Hos-
pital in Edinburgh, and afterwards, about 1560, in the
town council of that city. The patronage of the church
of Fala, of which the history is very obscure, belonged
previously to the Reformation to the family of Edmes-
town ; and in the year 1618, on the 20th February, the
two parishes were united, and the property after some
time descended to the Hamiltons of Preston, and the
estate of Faia, through their heiress, to Sir John Dal-
rymple, of Cousland : the present proprietor of Fala
proper is the Earl of Stair. The church of Soutra,
having been abandoned, became a ruin ; and the walls
of one of its aisles, and some occasional irregularities
of surface indicating prostrate dwellings, are now the
only vestiges of the former village, once so considerable
and populous.
The parish is about five miles in length, from east
to west, and three and a half in breadth, from north to
south. The western division of it consists of a ridge
of the Lammermoor hills, laid out, with the exception
of some patches in tillage, for the pasturage of sheep ;
and the eastern division, which is chiefly of a clayey
soil and of an undulated surface, is in good cultivation,
producing all the crops common to the district of the
Lothians. There are considerable tracts of moss and
moorland, and a large extent of marsh, whence issues
a sheet of water on Fala muir, called the Flow. The
prevailing scenery, however, is very beautiful, and in-
cludes many objects of interest and admiration. Among
these may be mentioned, Soutra hill, which forms the
western point of the Lammermoors, and is upwards of
1200 feet above the sea; the mansion and lands of
Woodcot ; Costerton House, very romantically situated ;
the rich fields and wooded inclosures around the an-
cient halls of Hamilton and Fala ; and the cascade of
Liundean, and several intersecting rivulets. The wider
prospect from Soutra hill presents numerous handsome
residences, the highly-cultivated plains of the Lothians,
the Fentland hills, and castle of Edinburgh, with the
Frith of Forth and the coasts of Fife in the distance.
The system of husbandry in the parish has been
latterly much improved ; the lands have been partly
drained, and inclosed, chiefly with hedges of thorn ; and
material advantage will arise from the drainage of
Fala Flow, a measure already in progress. The sheep,
of which considerable numbers are reared on the moor-
land farms, are mostly a cross between the Gala-water
and Tweedsmuir breeds, with a few of the Cheviot ;
and a moderate number of black-cattle, and a few
horses for the plough, are also reared. The rateable
annual value of the Edinburghshire portion of the
parish is £1583, and of the Haddingtonshire portion
£1298. The village of Fala is situated on a com-
manding eminence, and in its immediate vicinity are
the commodious inn and hamlet of Blackshiels, the
post-place of the district : a little northward of the
latter is Faladam, partly in the parish of Crichton. The
great road between Edinburgh and Lauder affords a
facility of communication. The ecclesiastical affairs
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of
Dalkeith and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the
412
stipend of the minister is £169, of which more than
one-half is received from the exchequer, and there is a
manse, with a glebe valued at £25. 10. per annum.
The patronage is vested in the Earl of Stair and the
Town Council of Edinburgh. The church, which is
pleasantly seated on an eminence overlooking the vil-
lage, is a plain and unpretending edifice, affording
accommodation to 250 persons. There is a place of
worship for Burghers. The parochial school is attended
by about eighty children ; the master has the maximum
salary, with a house and garden, and the fees average
about £25 per annum. A good parish library has been
formed by the contributions of the inhabitants. On
Soutra hill are some ruins of the hospital; and the
aisle of the ancient church is used as the burial-place of
a neighbouring family.
FALADAM, a hamlet, partly in the parish of
Crichton, and partly in that of Fala, county of
Edinburgh ; containing 64 inhabitants. It lies on
the road from Lauder to Edinburgh, and is distant
about half a mile north-west from the village of Fala.
The population is employed in tending sheep and cul-
tivating the soil.
FALKIRK, a burgh, mar-
ket-town, and parish, in the
count}' of Stirling; in-
cluding the villages of Bar-
leyside, Bonnybridge, Came-
lon, Glen, and Laurieston,
1M£. with part of the late quoad
sacra district of Grange-
mouth ; and containing
15,621 inhabitants, of whom
S209 are in the town,
11 miles (S. E.) from Stir-
ling, and 24 (W. by.-N.) from
Edinburgh. This place, which is situated on the ancient
boundary between the Roman territories on the south,
and those of the Caledonians on the north, is supposed
to have derived its former name, Eccles-brae, from the
position of its church on the brow of a hill, of which
that appellation is accurately descriptive. According
to some writers, the present name arose from the place
being near the wall of Antonine, and was originally
Wall-Kirk, of which the term Falkirk is a modification.
From its situation, it became at a very early period
the scene of numerous sanguinary conflicts, in one
of which, between the Roman forces and those of
Fergus II., in the year 415, Robert de Graham, the
commander of the king's army, was slain, and his re-
mains interred in the churchyard, from which circum-
stance that portion of the wall within the parish received
the appellation of Graham's Dyke. In 129S, a battle
took place to the north of the town, near the present
village of Grahamston, between the army of Edward I.
of England and the Scots under William Wallace, in
which Sir John Graham of Dundaff, and Sir John
Stewart of Bonkill, who commanded divisions of the
Scottish army, were both killed ; the Scots, dispirited
by the fall of their leaders, and overpowered by num-
bers, were compelled to give way, and, after a dreadful
carnage on each side, crossing the river Carron, re-
treated northwards. Sir John Graham and Sir John
Stewart were interred in the churchyard, where their
grave-stones are still preserved. In the reign of
Bursh Seal.
FA.LK
FALK
James III., the town was for some time in the pos-
session of the discontented nobles who had risen in
rebellion against their sovereign and assembled a nume-
rous army at this place; but, previously to the arrival
of the royal troops, which were on their march to attack
them here, the rebel forces advanced to Sauchie-Burn,
near Stirling, where a battle took place, which termi-
nated in the defeat and death of that monarch. In
1543, a meeting was held at Callendar House, the seat
of Lord Livingstone, in this parish, between the Earl of
Arran, regent of Scotland, and Cardinal Beaton and
the Earl of Moray, when a treaty was concluded, which
put an end to the projected union of the Princess Mary,
afterwards Queen of Scots, and Prince Edward, the son
of Henry VIII. of England. Callendar House was fre-
quently visited by Mary, who, with part of her retinue,
halted here on her route to the north in 156?, and in
1565 became sponsor at the baptism of the infant son
of William, the sixth Lord Livingstone. In 1567, the
queen, with her infant son, afterwards James VI., spent
a night at Callendar, on her route to visit her husband,
Lord Darnley, at Glasgow ; and also, on her return,
accompanied by Darnley, spent a day here, and on the
following morning proceeded to Ediuburgh. After the
queen's escape from the castle of Lochleven, Lord
Livingstone welcomed her arrival at Niddry Castle ;
and at the battle of Langside, after distinguishing him-
self for his fidelity and valour at the head of his vassals,
accompanied her in her flight from the field, and, with
Lady Livingstone, attended her in the various prisons
in which she was afterwards confined by Elizabeth.
These faithful adherents of the queen, and companions
of her misfortunes, died in England in 15*3, and their
remains were conveyed for interment in the church of
Falkirk.
During the minority of James VI., the Earl of Mor-
ton, who had resigned the regency of Scotland, having
seized the person of the king, and obtained possession
of the castle of Stirling, assembled a considerable army
of his friends, and encamped at Falkirk, where, also,
the army of his opponents soon arrived to offer him
battle ; but, just as the engagement was about to take
place, a truce was agreed to on both sides, and a treaty
was subsequently concluded, which was published at
the market-crosses of Stirling and this town in 15/S.
In the parliamentary war in the reign of Charles I.,
James, the first earl of Callendar, who was a firm ad-
herent of the king, became a commander in the army
which marched to his relief when a prisoner in the Isle
of Wight, attended by a large body of his Falkirk re-
tainers. On the defeat of these forces, the earl retired
to Holland ; and the inhabitants of this place, forcing
their way through the ranks of the victorious parlia-
mentarians, returned home. After the battle of Dun-
bar, in 1650, Cromwell marched to the Torwood, in
the vicinity of Falkirk, in pursuit of the royal army,
and on his route stormed and took possession of Cal-
lendar House, in which a garrison had been placed.
The siege was carried on with great obstinacy, and many
fell on both sides before the garrison surrendered ; the
houses in the town were plundered by the troops of
Cromwell, and the church was occupied by his soldiers
as stabling for their horses. On the removal of the
old gates of the mansion of Callendar, by the late pro-
prietor, numerous remains of those who fell during the
413
siege were discovered. During the rebellion of 1745, a
battle occurred on the moors to the south-west of the
town, between the forces under General Hawley and a
party of Highlanders in the service of the Pretender,
in which the numbers on each side have been estimated
at 8000. The combat terminated in the total defeat
of the royal forces, of whom nearly 300 were left dead
on the field ; and among those who fell were Sir Robert
Munro of Foulis, and his brother, Dr. Munro, to whose
memory a monument was raised nearly in the centre of
the churchyard. The titles of Linlithgow and Callendar
became united in James, the fifth earl of Linlithgow
and fourth earl of Callendar, on whose joining in the
rebellion of 1745 they became extinct ; the estates had
been sold in 1720 to the York Buildings' Company,
and on its dissolution were purchased by the late
William Forbes, Esq., father of the present proprietor.
The lands of Kerse, in the parish, were bought in 16S3
from Sir William Livingstone, of Kilsyth, a branch of
the Callendar family, by Sir Thomas Hope, king's ad-
vocate, from whom they descended to his second son,
one of the lords of session, and afterwards lord justice-
general. They were subsequently purchased by Law-
rence Dundas, Esq., of Edinburgh, whose son, Sir
Thomas, was created a peer in 1794 by the title of
Lord Dundas ; on his demise they passed to his son,
Lawrence, who was created Earl of Zetland in 1S3S,
and they are now the property of Thomas, the
second earl.
The town is situated on the road from Linlithgow
to Glasgow, and consists of one principal street, nearly
a mile in length, and of several smaller streets parallel
with it, or diverging from it in various directions; the
houses, of which many are of modern date, are hand-
some and well built. In the High-street is the town-
house, erected in IS 13, on the site of an ancient steeple
built in 1697, and taken down in 1S03; the present
edifice has an elegant spire 140 feet high, and forms a
great ornament. The town is well paved, lighted with
gas, and amply supplied with water. Owing to its situa-
tion on an eminence, from which is a gentle declivity
on both sides, it is always dry and clean ; and, admit-
ting a free circulation of air, it is regarded as a healthful
place of residence. From the main street, a street
called the Kirk Wynd extends for more than a mile to
the north, connecting the town with the villages of
Grahamston and Bainsford, and has handsome ranges
of modern houses on each side. About a mile to the
west of the town is the populous village of Camelon ;
and nearly at the same distance to the east is Laurieston,
beyond which, close to the junction of the Forth and
Clyde canal with the river Carron, is the populous and
flourishing town and port of Grangemouth, which, with
the various other villages in the parish, is noticed
under its own head. There are several libraries in
the town, supported by subscription, of which the prin-
cipal, established in 1792, has a collection of more
than 3000 volumes; a circulating library contains 1200,
and a Relief-Church library 1000 volumes. Public
subscription reading and news rooms are also well sup-
ported. A school of arts was founded in 1827, and
has continued to increase ; it possesses a library of 600
volumes, and lectures on natural history and the arts
and sciences are delivered weekly by the members. A
horticultural society has been for some time established
F A L K
F A L K
in the town, under very extensive patronage ; the
members hold meetings four times during the season,
when exhibitions of fruits and flowers take place.
Many of the inhabitants are employed in the Carron
iron-works, a most important concern in the adjoining
parish of Larbert ; the principal manufactures carried
on in Falkirk parish are in the immediate vicinity of
the town, and in the several villages. Of the establish-
ments in the vicinity of the town, the most extensive are
the Falkirk iron-works, seated on each side of the
Forth and Clyde canal, about half a mile distant, and
in which about 700 persons are occupied in the manu-
facture of small castings of every description, including
pans, kettles, stove-grates, and various other articles for
the home trade and for exportation. There are four
tanneries near the town, in three of which the currying
of leather also takes place, and in the other the dressing
of sheep and lamb skins ; they together afford employ-
ment to about fifty persons. The weaving of muslin
and coarse linen, formerly much more extensive, is car-
ried on by about forty of the inhabitants, chiefly for the
Glasgow manufacturers : in the town is a large brewery
for porter and ale, of which latter considerable quan-
tities are sent to London : several persons are also
employed in building vessels for the trade on the canal,
for which there is a yard upon its banks. The making
of nails is carried on at Camelon, where is also a distil-
lery ; at Castlecary, Bonnyside, and near Bainsford,
are extensive saw-mills ; and at Grahamston are works
for the manufacture of pyroligneous acid. From its
vicinity to the Carron iron-works, from the extensive
collieries around, and the great cattle trysts which
are held on Stenhouse Muir, Falkirk derives its chief
traffic ; and it is generally the resort of the dealers
attending those markets, and of numerous persons con-
nected with the works in the vicinity, who make it
their head-quarters, and for whose accommodation there
are numerous commodious inns, and shops amply sup-
plied with stores and merchandise of every variety.
The post-office has two daily deliveries from Edinburgh
and Glasgow, and one from Stirling, Alloa, and the
neighbouring towns ; and there are branch offices at
Grangemouth, Camelon, Grahamston, and Laurieston.
The old Falkirk Bank has been superseded by a branch
of the Bank of Scotland ; there are also branches of the
National Bank and Clydesdale Banking Company, and
the Commercial Banking Company have a concern here,
for which a very handsome building has been erected in
the High-street.
Facilities of communication are afforded by numerous
good roads that intersect the parish, by the Forth and
Clyde and the Union canals, and by the Edinburgh and
Glasgow railway, which passes south of the town, for
eight miles through the parish. The Forth and Clyde
canal was commenced in 1768, under an act of parlia-
ment enabling the company to raise a capital of
£150,000, in shares of £100 each, and was completed
in 1790 by a grant of £50,000 from government; the
whole length is thirty-eight and a half miles, from
Grangemouth, in this parish, to the Clyde at Glasgow.
The summit level is 141 feet above the sea, and is
attained by twenty locks on the east, and nineteen on
the western side ; the breadth of the canal at the sur-
face is fifty-six feet, and at the bottom twenty-seven
feet, and the average depth nine feet. It is navigable
414
for vessels of eighty or ninety tons, and passes through
the entire length of the parish. The Union canal, extend-
ing to Edinburgh, was commenced in 1818, and com-
pleted in 1S22 ; the breadth is forty feet at the surface,
and twenty feet at the bottom, and its mean depth is
five feet ; it enters the parish on the east, and runs
through it for about three miles to its junction with the
Forth and Clyde canal. The Edinburgh and Glasgow
railway enters the parish from Polmont, on the east, and
passes through it in a direction almost parallel with the
Union canal, over which, near the termination of the
canal, it is carried by an arch of 130 feet in span; and
its progress is continued at Callendar by a tunnel S45
yards in length, twenty-six feet in width, and twenty-
two feet in height. A branch from the line is in con-
templation to the town of Falkirk, about half a mile
distant. The market, which is amply supplied with
grain and provisions of all kinds, is on Thursday ; and
exclusively of the great cattle trysts on Stenhouse
Muir, in the adjoining parish of Larbert, nine fairs are
held in the town, on the first Thursdays in March,
April, and November, the second Thursdays in June
and July, the third Thursdays in May and August, and
the last Thursdays in January and October ; they
are chiefly for cattle and horses, and are very nume-
rously attended. The inhabitants received a charter
from James VI., erecting the town into a free burgh
of barony; and in the reign of Charles II., the Earl of
Callendar obtained a charter constituting it a royal
burgh, with liberty to elect magistrates, create free bur-
gesses, to hold courts, and to have a prison, and the
privilege of two weekly markets and four annual fairs.
The controul has been for many years vested in two
separate bodies, called the stent-masters and feuars ;
the stent-masters are twenty-four in number, of whom
four are chosen by the merchants, and two by each of
the several trades. Both these bodies elect from among
themselves a president and treasurer ; the former attend
to the lighting of the town and the supply of the inha-
bitants with water, and the latter principally to the
tolls and customs, and the management of the town
estates. The burgh exercises no magisterial jurisdic-
tion; courts of justice are held monthly under the
superintendence of a sheriff-depute who resides here.
By act of William IV., the town received a municipal
charter vesting the government in a provost, three
bailies, a treasurer, and seven councillors ; but, no funds
having been assigned for defraying expenses, the corpo-
ration do not interfere with the established manage-
ment. The police is under a constable appointed by
the sheriff of the county, and in cases of emergency the
town is watched by a body of the inhabitants, called the
town guard ; the only prison is a small apartment for
temporary confinement, in the town-house. Under the act
of the 2nd and 3rd of William IV., the town is associated
with the burghs of Airdrie, Hamilton, Lanark, and Lin-
lithgow, in returning a member to parliament.
The parish, which is situated in the eastern division
of the county, is mostly bounded on the north by the
Carron, though, from some alteration in the course of
that river, a few small portions are now on its northern
bank. It is about nine miles in length, and varies from
two to five miles in breadth, comprising an area of
nearly 15,000 acres, of which 11,000 are arable, 2000
meadow and pasture, 1800 woodland and plantations,
F AL K
FALK
and the remainder waste. The surface from the banks
of the river to the town is an extended plane of level
carse land, in the most luxuriant state of cultivation,
with a gentle acclivity towards the town, to the south of
which the ground rises gradually to an elevation of 600
feet above the sea, and towards the east and west is
pleasingly undulated. The higher parts command ex-
tensive and beautifully-diversified prospects over the
adjacent country, comprising various towns and villages,
with numerous elegant mansions and pleasant villas,
encircled by the heights of Kilsyth and Denny, with
the Ochil and Saline hills, and, to the north-west, the
far distant and lofty mountains of Benledi and Ben-
voirlich. The river Carron, which flows in a winding
course for about fourteen miles through the parish, into
the Forth a little below Grangemouth, is navigable for
vessels of 200 tons to the village of Carronshore, beyond
which it is a limpid stream abounding with trout, perch,
and eels. At Castlecary, on the west, a rivulet dividing
the parish from Cumbernauld, in the county of Dum-
barton, forms in its progress a picturesque cascade of
eighty feet, a little to the north of which it joins a
stream called the Bonnywater, falling into the Carron
near the village of Bonnybridge. The Grange burn
separates the parish for nearly two miles from that of
Polmont on the east, and afterwards flows into the
Carron ; and near the village of Camelon, the Light-
water burn, now a small streamlet, runs through the
centre of a wide channel which appears to have been
once the bed of a very considerable river, the banks,
with their several windings, being clearly defined. The
adjacent lands have every appearance of a coast indented
with bays, and marked by projecting headlands 5 and
in the immediate vicinity is the site of an ancient town,
supposed to have been the city of Camelon, which, ac-
cording to tradition, was a sea-port : indeed, fragments
of anchors and boats of antique form have at various
times been found imbedded in the soil. There are three
small lakes in the higher portion of the parish, but
they are not distinguished by features of importance.
The soil is generally fertile, and in the lower lands
luxuriantly rich ; the system of agriculture is in a very
advanced state, and has been brought to great perfec-
tion under the auspices of the Agricultural Association
of the eastern district of the county, which was esta-
blished here in 1839, and of which the Earl of Dunmore
is patron, and Mr. Forbes, of Callendar, president. The
crops are, wheat, beans, barley, and oats, with rye-grass
and clover. The breed of cattle has been much im-
proved ; the farm houses and offices are substantial and
commodiously arranged, and the lands are well inclosed.
Lime is extensively used, and considerable quantities of
other manure are supplied from Grangemouth ; tile-
draining is generally practised, and belonging to the
Earl of Zetland are three kilns for the manufacture of
the tiles. The parish abounds with coal, particularly
in the higher districts, where are several collieries,
producing not only an abundant supply for the vici-
nity, but. also for exportation ; ironstone, limestone,
and sandstone are also plentiful, and veins of silver,
copper, lead, and cobalt have been found, but not in
any considerable quantity. Freestone is extensively
wrought, and there are not less than seven quarries in
operation, affording employment to 160 men; a whin-
stone quarry has also been recently opened, from which
415
blocks were raised for the railway. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £28,748. The woodland at Cal-
lendar is supposed to have formed a portion of the an-
cient Caledonian forest which, during the time of the
Romans, occupied a considerable tract of this part of
the country. The timber is generally oak, beech, ash,
hazel, and birch ; and the plantations, which are chiefly
Scotch fir and larch, are under good management, and in
a thriving state, adding greatly to the variety and beauty
of the general scenery. Callendar House, the seat of
William Forbes, Esq., is a spacious and ancient man-
sion, with walls of great thickness and turrets of antique
character, retaining much of its original baronial mag-
nificence, though in some parts modernised by the late
proprietor. It is situated in a park of more than 500
acres, embellished with timber of venerable growth ;
and within the grounds is the family mausoleum, a
handsome circular building of the Grecian-Doric order,
in which are the remains of the late Mr. Forbes. Kerse
House, the seat of the Earl of Zetland, is a very ancient
mansion with numerous additions of more modern date,
and chiefly in the Elizabethan style, which forms its
prevailing character ; it is beautifully seated in a well-
wooded park forming the chief ornament of the eastern
carse lands, and the pleasure-grounds are tastefully laid
out. Bantaskine House is a handsome modern man-
sion on an elevated spot about half a mile from the
town, and ornamented with thriving plantations ; the
grounds command some extensive prospects.
The parish, which was formerly much more exten-
sive, including the parishes of Denny, Slamannan, Muir-
avonside, and Polmont, separated from it at various
times, is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Lin-
lithgow and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The
minister's stipend is £339, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £20 per annum ; patron, the Crown. The
church was originally founded by Malcolm Canmore,
in 1057, and was a cruciform structure with a central
tower; the present church, rebuilt in 1810 with the
exception of the ancient tower, the area under which
now forms a porch, is of quadrangular shape, and con-
tains 1300 sittings. Churches have been erected at
Camelon and Grangemouth ; and a place of worship
once belonging to the Old-Light Associate Synod, is now
in connexion with the Independent bod}7. There are
also places of worship for the Free Church, United
Secession, the Relief, and Baptists ; and a splendid
Roman Catholic chapel, opened in the summer of 1S43.
Two parochial schools are maintained, in one of which
are taught the Latin, Greek, and French languages,
and in the other only the English language, writing,
and arithmetic, with the usual branches of general edu-
cation ; the master of the former has a salary of £17,
with a house and garden, and fees averaging £35 per
annum ; the master of the English school has a salary
of £34, with a dwelling-house and garden, and fees
amounting to £4S. There are numerous other schools
in the parish, together affording instruction to more
than 1200 children : one of these, at Falkirk, is exclu-
sively for the gratuitous instruction of the poor, of
whom about eighty are in attendance, and the master
has a salary of £40, arising from an annual collection at
the parish church, and private donations. The remains
of several of the forts erected by Agricola may still be
seen in the direction of the vallum built afterwards
FALK
FALK
by Antoninus. At Castlecary, a small hamlet at the
western extremity of the parish, the site of one of these
forts, a field of six acres in extent, now covered with
grass, may be distinctly traced ; a part of the vaulted
foundations is remaining underneath the surface, and
many of the stones belonging to the fort have been used
in the inclosure of the field. The old tower of Castle-
cary, which is a very ancient structure, and said to be
Roman, is still tolerably entire, and is inhabited by the
Earl of Zetland's forester: at this hamlet, also, is> a
landing-place for passengers by the canal boats. Stones
with various inscriptions, now preserved in the museum
of the college of Glasgow, have been dug up in various
parts of the ditch which defended the Roman wall, and
of which portions are yet discernible in Callendar Park,
and in the grounds of Bantaskine House. Vestiges re-
main of a Roman road that entered the parish at Castle-
cary, and passed along the south side of the wall, nearly
to Roughcastle, crossed the wall, and led to the fort at
Camelon, and thence to the river Carron, where it en-
tered the parish of Larbert ; and in excavating the
Forth and Clyde canal, at no great distance, a Roman
granary has been discovered, in which was wheat of a
blackish colour. Part of the vertebra of a whale has
been found imbedded in the clay at Grangemouth, while
making excavations there ; also in the brick-field of the
Earl of Zetland, about three miles from the sea; and in
excavating the tunnel for the Edinburgh and Glasgow
railway in 1840, the trunk of a petrified tree, about five
feet in circumference, was discovered at a depth of 129
feet below the surface.
FALKLAND, a royal
burgh and parish, in the dis-
trict of Cupar, county of
W5&' ■••■■'.■■.■V'.-B^"Fife, 10 miles (W.) from
: ■< - w Cupar, and 24 (N. N. E.)
from Edinburgh ; contain-
ing, with the villages of
Balmblae, Freuchie, and
Newton, 2886 inhabitants,
of whom 1313 are in the
burgh. This place, anciently
called Kilgour, signifying in
the Gaelic language the. " Hill
of Goats," is situated in a secluded spot at the northern
base of the East Lomond hill, and was one of the prin-
cipal strongholds of the MacdufFs, thanes of Fife. In
the castle here David, Duke of Rothesay, eldest son
of Robert III., was starved to death by order of his
uncle, the Duke of Albany, on whose attainder in the
year 1424 it was, together with the lands attached
to it, forfeited to the crown, and from the forest in
the vicinity became a favourite hunting-seat of the
Scottish kings. The present palace was erected on the
site of the ancient castle by James V., who made it
his occasional residence, and died here in 1542 ; the
queen regent was staying at the palace when she was
informed of the destruction of the cathedral of St.
Andrew's ; and with Mary, Queen of Scots, it was also
a place of favourite resort. James VI. passed much of
his time here while pursuing the diversion of the chase;
and it was from Falkland that the Earl of Bothwell, in
1593, decoyed him to Perth, to obtain possession of
person. Charles II., while in the power of the
Burgh Seal.
his
Covenanters, resided at the palace for some davs : sub-
416
sequently to his restoration to the throne, the building
was considerably damaged by an accidental fire. After
the battle of Sheriffmuir in 1715, the palace was seized,
by Rob P-oy Me Gregor, who, with his party, kept pos-
session of it for a time, and laid the country around it
under contribution. The buildings at present consist of
one side, and portions of some of the angles and other
sides, of a quadrangle which in its appearance is similar
to those of Holyrood House and Stirling; the original
ceiling of the hall, or grand audience-chamber, is still
entire, and displays some splendid specimens of elabo-
rate carving and exquisite paintings. Notwithstanding
the injuries to which it has been exposed, the palace has
been partially restored by the family of Bruce, who pur-
chased the estate, and it is now inhabited by their agent.
The town consists principally of one spacious street,
in which are the market-place and town-hall, and from
which diverge several narrow and irregularly-formed
streets in various directions. The houses are generally
of antique appearance, with thatched roofs, intermixed
with several of modern erection, built of white free-
stone, which have greatly improved the aspect of the
place ; and the inhabitants are amply supplied with
water. The only important trade carried on is hand-
loom weaving, in which most of the people are employed
at their own houses. The post-office has a good deli-
very ; the market is well supplied with provisions of
every kind ; and fairs, chiefly for cattle and horses, are
held on the second Thursday in January, the last in
February and April, the third in June, the first after the
12th of August, the fourth in September, and on the
Friday before the Edinburgh Hallow fair in Novem-
ber. The town was erected into a royal burgh by char-
ter of James II., granted in 1458, and confirmed by
James VI. in 1595; the government is vested in three
bailies, a treasurer, and a town council of fifteen per-
sons, chosen agreeably with the regulations of the
Municipal Reform act. The magistrates exercise civil
and criminal jurisdiction over the whole extent of the
royalty ; but very few cases are brought under their
decision, except debts to a trifling amount, and petty
offences against the police. The town-hall, situated in
the market-place, is a neat building containing the
requisite courts and an assembly-room.
The parish is about four miles in length, and nearly
of equal breadth, comprising an area of 10,000 acres, of
which about 300 are woodland and plantations, and
the remainder arable, meadow, and pasture. The sur-
face is partly flat, including an extensive tract formerly
the Park of Falkland, and partly diversified with hills, of
which the highest is the East Lomond, fully 1200 feet
in height, and fertile to the very summit. The principal
river is the Eden, which flows through the parish ; and
numerous springs of excellent water issue from the hills :
the lake to the east of the palace, in which were several
inlets, has been drained, and the land brought into cul-
tivation. The soil is various, partly a light brown loam,
partly sand and gravel covered with heath and furze,
and partly a deep black moss : the whole length from
east to west between the plain and the Lomond hill
is a rich loam, producing abundant crops. The system
of husbandry has been greatly improved under the
auspices of Mr. Bruce and other landed proprietors; a
large tract of common has been convei-ted into fine
arable fields, and most of the other waste has been
F A It N
F A It R
reclaimed and brought into profitable cultivation.
Draining and inclosing are extensively practised, and
the various farms under beneficial leases have been
carried to the highest state of productiveness. The
Lomond hill abounds with limestone, and lead-ore
has been discovered recently ; coal, marl, and fullers'
earth are also found in various parts. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £S606. Falkland House,
the seat of the family of Bruce, is an elegant mansion
beautifully situated, and embellished with thriving plan-
tations. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the super-
intendence of the presbytery of Cupar and synod of
Fife : the minister's stipend is £252. S., with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £18 per annum ; patrons, the
family of Bruce. The church, erected in 1620, and
repaired in 1770, is a plain structure containing 6S~
sittings. There are places of worship for members of
the Free Church, the United Secession, and Baptists
of Free Communion. The parochial school is well
attended ; the master has a salary of £34, with allow-
ance for house and garden, and the fees average about
£50. On the Lomond hill are vestiges of an ancient camp
supposed to be of Roman origin. The town gives the
title of Viscount to the Cary family, a dignity created
in the person of Sir Henry Cary, K. B., who was ap-
pointed lord lieutenant of Ireland in 162*2, and on
his death in 1633 was succeeded in the title by his son,
Lucius, one of the most learned and accomplished men
of his age, slain at the battle of Newbury in 1643.
FANKERTON, a village, in the parish of Denny,
county of Stirling ; containing 68 inhabitants. It lies
in the north part of the parish, on the road from Denny
to Fintry, the Carron water running here in nearly a
parallel direction. A part of the population is employed
in the Herbertshire mill, a considerable paper manufac-
tory, on the opposite bank of the Carron, in the parish
of Dunipace.
FANS, a village, in the parish of Earlstoun, county
of Berwick, 3 miles (E. N. E.) from Earlstoun ; contain-
ing 153 inhabitants. The village lies in the northern
part of the parish, and a short distance from the river
Eden. A school is supported chiefly by George Baillie,
Esq., of Mellerstain, by whom the teacher is also allowed
a dwelling.
FARAY, an isle, in the parish of Walls, county of
Orkney. It is of small extent, lying to the east of the
island of Hoy, of which the southern portion, with this
isle, and the isles of Flota, Cava, and Graemsay, consti-
tutes the parish. There is some good pasturage for sheep.
FARNELL, a parish, in the county of Forfar,
4 miles (S. E.) from Brechin ; containing 620 inhabit-
ants. This place derives its name, of Gaelic origin,
from its having been anciently the resort of swans.
The parish is about three miles in length, and two in
breadth ; it is bounded on the north by the river South
Esk, and comprises 5540 acres, of which 3330 are ara-
ble, 560 woods and plantations, 600 undivided common,
and the remainder forest land, called Monteithmont
muir. The surface, though generally flat, rises towards
the north, and on the south side is marked by a ridge
of hills of no great elevation, extending into the parishes
of Marytown and Craig. The river, which has its
source in the Grampian hills, separates the parish from
the town of Brechin, and falls into a small bay of the
sea, on the west of Montrose ; it abounds with salmon
Vol. I. — 417
and small trout, and in that part of its course which
skirts the parish it runs between banks of great beauty,
richly wooded, and along which a road has been con-
structed, commanding several highly-picturesque pros-
pects. A small rivulet that flows near the church,
occasionally, after rain or the melting of the snow-,
swells into a torrent, bursting its banks, and inundating
the adjacent meadows ; its channel has, however, been
deepened, and other means adopted to confine it within
its due limits. The soil in the higher lands is of rather
inferior quality, but in the lower a rich loam intermixed
with clay, of great fertility, and well adapted for the
growth of wheat. The crops are, wheat, oats, barley,
peas, beans, turnips, and potatoes ; the system of agri-
culture is in a very advanced state; the lands are
drained and inclosed, the farm-houses and offices of
very superior character, and all the more recent im-
provements in husbandry are practised. There are two
mills for meal, and two saw-mills, one of which latter
is occasionally used for making bone-dust, as manure
for turnip land. The ordinary kinds of live stock are
reared with great attention, and the farmers of the
parish have obtained many of the prizes awarded by
the Forfarshire Agricultural Association. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £5246.
The plantations are chiefly larch and Scotch fir, occa-
sionally intermixed with various kinds of forest-trees,
and are judiciously managed and in a flourishing condi-
tion. Kinnaird Castle, the seat of Sir James Carnegie,
Bart., is a spacious and handsome mansion of quadran-
gular form, with a square tower at each of the angles,
and has an imposing grandeur of effect ; the demesne is
tastefully laid out and richly wooded, and the lawn in
front of the house is embellished with some very stately
timber. Every facility of communication is afforded by
good roads kept in repair by statute labour ; and a
turnpike-road has recently been constructed from For-
far to Montrose, which passes for two miles through
the parish. Farnell is in the presbytery of Brechin and
synod of Angus and Mearns, and in the patronage of
the Crown; the minister's stipend is £250. 10., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum. The
church is a handsome edifice in the early English style
of architecture, with a finely-vaulted roof, and is adapted
for a congregation of about 330 persons. The paro-
chial school is well attended ; the master has a salary
of £30, with about £20 fees, and a house and garden.
The poor have the interest of bequests to the amount
of £500, producing £25 a year. Near the church, and
within the glen from which the parish takes its name,
are the remains of the ancient castle of Farnell, the
baronial seat of the Ogilvys, of Airlie ; it is still in good
repair, and part of it is appropriated, rent free, as dwell-
ings for infirm and aged persons.
FARR, a parish, in the county of Sutherland, 19
miles (\V. by S.) from Thurso ; containing, with the
late quoad sacra district of' Strathy, 2217 inhabitants.
The name of Farr, or Far, as it is sometimes written,
may be derived from the Gaelic word Faire, implying a
"watch" or " sentinel," and doubtless arose in reference
to the Dun, or circular tower, standing on the coast,
about half a mile north of the parish church, and which
formed the first and most important of a regular chain
of such ancient buildings extendingfor more than twenty-
four miles into the interior. These towers are thought
3 H
FARE
FAIR
to have been erected by a race called in Gaelic Cruinnich,
from a word signifying " circular," or one denoting " a
gathering together." There are also numerous tumuli
in the neighbourhood, which are generally considered to
have been the burying-places of invaders, especially
Danes, who fell in the fierce and bloody conflicts so
frequent with the native inhabitants ; the sepulchres of
the chieftains are usually at a little distance from the
ordinary burying-places, and marked out by some signal
and more permanent memorial. In the churchyard of
Farr, for example, is a large erect stone, curiously sculp-
tured with pagan devices, and traditionally reported to
note the burial-place of some Dane of distinction, by
many supposed to be a prince ; it is two feet in breadth,
six feet above the ground, and as many beneath.- Several
of the tumuli are said to be the depositaries of those
who fell in the battle between Reginald, King of the
Isles, and Harold, Earl of Orkney and Caithness. In
times less remote, the ancient clan of the Mackays
made a very considerable figure here, their principal re-
sidence during the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries being
Strathnaver, of which Farr formed a part. Subse-
quently, upon the marriage- alliance between the earls
of Sutherland and the Gordons, some of the latter came
to reside in the district ; and about one hundred years
ago there were few persons in the parish but Mackays
and Gordons, which names, indeed, are still the most
numerous among the popidation. The ancient castle,
probably built by the Norwegians, is supposed to have
been the seat of the Mackays of Farr before they were
created barons under the title of Lords Reay.
The parish lies in the northern extremity of Scot-
land, and is about forty miles long, varying in breadth
from eight to twenty miles, and containing 300,000
acres ; it is bounded on the north by the Northern
Ocean. The general aspect of the parish is mountainous,
the surface having in most parts a very thin shallow
soil, and in others exhibiting only bare rock. The
principal mountain is Bein Chlibrig, of conical shape,
and the loftiest in Sutherland, of which the southern
side is partially covered with heath and grass, but the
northern is bare and rocky ; it is situated in the south-
western part of the parish, and attains to 3200 feet
above the level of the sea, attracting great numbers of
ptarmigan, who locate themselves about the summit.
The other hills, nearer the sea-coast, reach different de-
grees of elevation, but are all inferior in height to the
Chlibrig. There are several picturesque valleys, also
forming striking features in the scenery ; the chief are
those called Strathnaver and Strathrathy, which both
in extent and beauty far exceed all the rest. The
former extends from the coast in a south-west direction
for about twenty-eight miles, including the ground
along the river Naver, the loch of Naver, and the water
of Mudale, beyond the loch ; and is considered, for the
richness of its pasture and the variety of its scenery,
the most interesting Highland vale in the county.
Strathrathy runs immediately south from the sea for
twelve miles, and lies about ten miles north-east of
Strathnaver, between which and this valley are situated
the less commanding but still pleasing straths of Kirk-
tomie, Armidale, Swordly, and Clachan, in the last of
which stand the church and manse. The parish com-
prises about thirteen miles of sea-coast, reaching from
Naver bay in the west to Baligil burn in the east ; it is
418
for the most part abrupt and precipitous, and dangerous
to mariners, but contains the bays of Naver, Farr,
Kirktomie, Armidale, and Strathy, where boats may
safely land in moderate weather. The headlands are,
Airdniskicb, Aird of Farr, Aird of Kirktomie, and
Strathy head, from the last of which the lights of Cape
Wrath and the promontory of Dunnet Head are seen on
a clear day. There are, besides, numerous caves,
natural arches, and fissures, along the coast, as well as
in the interior, some of which are visited with consi-
derable interest by the curious ; the chief caves by the
sea-side are those in the Aird of Kirktomie and Strathy-
point, and at Farr is a very fine natural arch.
There are many springs of excellent water in the
parish, and several fresh-water lakes of considerable
extent and beauty, the largest of which are, Loch Naver,
Loch Coir-na-fearn, and Loch Strathy. The first of
these, seven miles long, about a mile and a half broad,
and in some parts thirty fathoms deep, is by far the
most striking and important ; its shore at different
parts exhibits all the varieties of rock, pebbles, and
sand. The rivers are the Naver, Borgie, and Strathy,
the first of which, the largest in the county, issuing
from the loch of the same name, is joined near Ach-
ness by a stream rising in Loch Coir-na-fearn, and,
after receiving many other waters in its meandering,
and sometimes rapid and sometimes apparently quies-
cent, course through the strath, falls, about eighteen
miles from its source, into the sea. The river Strathy
flows from Loch Strathy, and, when augmented by the
swellings of its tributaries from the several hills and
marshes, becomes a powerful stream. The Borgie,
which issues from Loch Loyal, in the parish of Tongue,
forms a boundary of this parish, and joins the ocean
within a mile of the Naver, at Torrisdale ; there are
salmon -fishings in it, which for a long time .past have
belonged to the Sutherland family. Indeed, all the
larger lakes and rivers contain a plentiful supply of
salmon ; and in the smaller, trout are taken in consider-
able quantities.
The soil differs greatly ; a very large portion of it in
the interior, especially in the vicinity of the lochs, ex-
cept Loch Naver, is a deep moss ; while that on the
borders of the rivers Strathy and Naver consists of
sand, gravel, and moss. Along the coast it is found to
be light and sandy, and in the neighbourhood of the
bays, in addition to this, to contain some alluvial de-
posits. About 800 acres in various parts are under
wood, and about 700 on the coast are cultivated by
small tenants : with these deductions the whole land is
laid out in extensive sheep-walks. The herbage is of
many kinds, varying principally according to the eleva-
tion of the land. The common red heather, deer-hair,
and the long tough grass called flying-bent are com-
monly found on the mountains, hills, and moors ; and
in the softer marshes is a profusion of the species known
by the name of cotton-grass. The trees growing here
are of much variety, and, with some trifling exceptions,
are indigenous ; the alder attains a considerable size
on the grounds watered by the Naver, where, also, the
birch is most flourishing and abundant. About 22,000
sheep of the Cheviot breed are annually grazed in the
parish. The land occupied by the small tenants is
generally uneven in the surface, and capable of great
improvement by draining, inclosing, and ploughing;
FARR
F E A It
the crops consist of oats, bear, and potatoes. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £808. The rocks
and stone in the district, which are abundant in every
direction, are chiefly coarse granite, gneiss, and sand-
stone. On the coast near Kirktomie is a considerable
quantity of red sandstone, mixed with conglomerate,
and in the vicinity of Strathy is some superior limestone,
from which lime is obtained ; also a large quarry of
white sandstone, easily convertible to purposes of utility
from the readiness with which it is dressed by the
chisel. At Strathy the strata of freestone and lime-
stone are horizontal ; in the rest of the parish the
strata of rock are nearly vertical, or form an angle of
from five to thirty degrees with the perpendicular. Cat-
tle trysts are held at Aultnaharrow on the 14th Sep-
tember, and at Bettyhill on the first Wednesday in
November. Salmon are taken in considerable quanti-
ties at three stations on the coast, and about eighteen
boats are engaged in the herring-fishery during the
season, from May till September ; the salmon are sold
to a company who have a curing establishment here.
Turbot, cod, ling, haddock, and other fish are also
obtained. There is a post-office connected with the
market-town of Thurso, thirty-two miles distant ; and
the inhabitants have some facility of communication by
means of a mail-diligence carrying four passengers,
which runs to and fro, three times a week, between
Thurso and the neighbouring parish of Tongue, be-
tween which places there is also a weekly carrier. The
road from Bonar-Bridge to Tongue passes through the
heights, and about sixteen miles of the line from Tongue
to Thurso near the coast : on the river Naver is a
chain-boat, and over the different parish roads are two
bridges of three arches each, and twelve of one arch.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the pres-
bytery of Tongue and synod of Sutherland and Caith-
ness ; patron, the Duke of Sutherland : the stipend of
the minister is £167, with a good manse, built in 1818,
and a glebe valued at £8 per annum. The church,
situated near the coast, is convenient for the population,
the greater portion of whom reside in its vicinity, the
remoter district being peopled only by an inconsiderable
number of shepherds in the employ of the great sheep-
farmers. It was erected in 1774, and is a plain build-
ing, with substantial walls, and seats about 750 persons.
There is a government church at Strathy, ten miles east
from the parish church, built in 1826, and accommo-
dating about 350 persons. The members of the Free
Church have also a place of worship. There is a paro-
chial school, in ■which instruction may be obtained in
the classics, mathematics, and all the ordinary branches
of education ; the master has the maximum salary, with
about £5 fees, a house, and £3 in lieu of a garden.
Three other schools are supported respectively at Stra-
thy, Armidale, and Clarkhill, in all which the classics,
mathematics, and the usual branches are taught, with
the exception of the school at Clarkhill, which is under
a female teacher. The master of the school at Strathy,
a parliamentary one, has a salary of £25, with about £4
in lieu of fees. The Committee of the General Assembly
give a salary of similar amount to the teacher at Armi-
dale, the fees being £3 ; and the mistress of Clarkhill
receives £5 from the Society for Propagating Christian
Knowledge, and the fees. The masters have excellent
accommodations, including each a house and garden,
419
and a croft of land from the heritor. The Duke of
Sutherland derives his title of Baron Strathnaver from
the vale in this parish : the dignity was conferred upon
his Grace's ancestor as early, it is supposed, as the
beginning of the 13th century.
FASKINE, a village, in the parish of Old Monk-
land, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 1| mile
(S.) from Airdrie ; containing 408 inhabitants. It is
situated in the eastern extremity of the parish, and is
one of the numerous villages that owe their rise to the
minerals or manufactures of the district. Faskine is
the seat of an extensive colliery, and it was here that
the coal called the Splint, or Lady Anne coal, was first
found, the seam deriving its name from Lady Anne Stir-
ling, the wife of A. Stirling, Esq. In the neighbourhood
of the village are four ironstone mines.
FEARN, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 8 miles
(W.) from Brechin ; containing 404 inhabitants. The
word Fearn, signifying in the Gaelic language "an alder
tree," appears to have been used in the present instance
on account of the numbers of that tree growing in the
parish or neighbourhood. The place is not remarkable
for any striking historical events ; but the existence of
some of those curious stone circles of large dimensions
which are also found in other parts, proves the very
ancient occupation of the soil by inhabitants concerning
the origin or character of whom we are left in doubt.
Upon the banks of the river Noran are the ruins of
the castle of Vane, formerly the residence of the cele-
brated Cardinal Beaton, who is said to have appro-
priated it to a Lady Vane, a name originally Bane, or
Bain, denoting "fair." The lands formerly belonged to
the Earl of Crawford ; and tradition states that John
Collessie, knight of Balnamoon, with a party of horse-
men, before the commencement of the battle of Brechin
in 1452, asked of him, as a reward for his services, the
possession of the barony of Fearn ; and that, upon re-
fusal, the earl and his followers were defeated through
Collessie's defection from his cause.
The parish is nearly seven miles long, and is three
broad; about 3100 acres are under culture, 330 are
plantations, and the remainder is heath and sheep-
walks. It is bounded on the north by the parish of
Lethnot and Navar, on the south and west by that of
Tannadice, and on the east by Menmuir and Careston.
The surface consists of two parallel ridges, rising one
above the other, between the valley of Strathmore and
the Grampian hills, and inclosing two sweeps of low
ground, the southern range of which is suited to tillage,
and the northern to pasturage. The rivers are, the
Cruik, having its source at the foot of the Grampians,
and the Noran, wateriug the lower valley, and marking
in its course the south-west boundary of the parish.
The soil of the cultivated grounds is a fine rich loam,
and the land is distributed into sixteen farms, varying
in size from fifty to 300 acres, and each comprising cer-
tain portions of moor or pasture ; a large part of the
district called the barony of Fearn is waste, covered
with whins and broom. Wheat, bark}', and oats are
the grain usually sown. The recent introduction of
bone-dust manure has been of great service to hus-
bandry, and much benefit has resulted from the many
improvements made within the last forty years in the
farm-houses. The live stock reared for the market
consists of black-cattle and sheep, to which much atten-
3 H2
FEAR
F EN VV
tion is paid, the open pastures and the plentiful herbage
provided by the extensive cultivation of turnips afford-
ing great facilities. The rocky strata differ considerably
in different parts. The southern declivity of the lower
ridge is sandstone ; and upwards, towards the north, to
the middle of the slope of the other ridge, is a large
sweep of argillaceous rock, of an iron cast, called halm
by the natives of the district. Above this, the sand-
stone again appears ; and not far distant, the ordinary
greywacke is to be seen. The estates of Auchnacree,
Deuchar, and Noranside have convenient and substan-
tial mansions, surrounded by good gardens and plan-
tations ; and the house of the last of them, encompassed
with beautiful scenery, commands a view over the vale
of Strathmore to the distance of 100 miles. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £42*0. The eccle-
siastical affairs are directed by the presbytery of Brechin
and synod of Angus and Mearns. The minister has a
salary of £155, with a manse, and a glebe of 10 acres,
valued at £19 per annum ; patron, the Crown. The
church, built in 1S06, stands on the summit of a natural
mound, in the middle of a dene, and is conveniently
situated for the population. There is a parochial school,
the master of which has a salary of £28. 12. 6., with a
house and garden, and £13. 10. fees.
FEARN, a parish, in the county of Ross and Cro-
marty, 5 miles (S. E.) from Tain ; containing, with the
villages of Balintore and Hiltown, 1914 inhabitants.
The Gaelic name of this parish, Fearnn, signifies " the
alder-tree," and was applied in consequence of the great
number of alders growing at Mid-Fearn, in the parish
of Edderton, in the neighbourhood. An abbey was
founded there in the reign of Alexander II., by Far-
quhar, first earl of Ross ; but a bull was afterwards
obtained from the pope for removing the establishment
to a fertile plain in this parish, on account of the com-
parative sterility of the lands in Edderton. The abbey
was not only a place of worship before the Reformation,
but was used as such until October, 1742, when sud-
denly, during the performance of service, the roof fell
in, and thirty-six persons were instantly killed, eight
others dying soon afterwards. The parish, which is
about two miles wide, and several miles in length,
stretches along the western shore of the Moray Frith,
and is bounded on the north by the parish of Tain, on
the south by that of Nigg, and on the west by Logie
Easter. The surface is nearly level, with the exception
of a few eminences ; about three-fourths are arable, and
the rest partly green, and partly covered with heath.
The coast for about a mile is flat and sandy, especially
where the fishing village of Balintore lies ; but Hiltown,
another fishing station, half a mile from the former, is
skirted by a coast altogether bold and rocky. The loch
of Eye, the only water of consequence, is about two
miles long, and half a mile broad.
The soil is a deep loam in the centre of the parish ;
the loans of Fearn to the south, and the lands of Allan
to the west, are a deep clay ; and in the other parts
the soil is gravelly or sandy. The greater portion is
cultivated, or occasionally in tillage; 15S acres are
under wood, and the remainder is waste or pasture.
Many improvements have taken place in agriculture
within the last thirty years, by trenching, draining,
and levelling ; green crops are extensively raised, and
some of the best wheat in Scotland is grown here. The
420
produce is sent to the Leith and London markets ; and
a monthly market for swine is held on the Hill of Fearn.
Fisheries of grey fish and herring are carried on to a
considerable extent by the villagers residing on the sea-
shore. The rateable annual value of the parish is £5229.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the presbytery
of Tain and synod of Ross ; patron, the Crown. The
stipend of the minister is £206, with a good manse, and
a glebe of five acres, worth about £12. 10. per annum.
The church is of early English architecture. There is a
parochial school, the master of which has a salary of
£36, including £2 for garden, with a house, and about
£10 fees. At Balintore is also a school, in which Gaelic
is taught, and of which the teachers are supported by
the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. There
are several Druidical temples in the parish, but the chief
antiquities are the ruins of the old abbey, the castle of
Lochlin, situated on the eastern head of the lake of the
same name, and the vestiges of the very ancient castle
of Cadboll. Here is buried Sir John Lockhart Ross, of
Balnagown, vice-admiral of the Blue, a distinguished
naval hero, who died in 1*90.
FENTON, a village, in the parish of Dirleton,
county of Haddington, 4 miles (S. W. by W.) from
North Berwick ; containing 201 inhabitants. This place
consists of East and West Fentou, and lies in the
southern part of the parish, a short distance from the
Peffer burn, its boundary in that direction. A part of
the lands in this neighbourhood formerly belonged to
the powerful family of De Vallibus, or De Vaux. In
1606, James VI., having given the castle of Dirleton to
Sir Thomas Erskine, captain of the English guard, for
his valour in preserving him from the traitorous attempt
of Gowrie, created him Baron Dirleton, and afterwards
Viscount Fenton, this being the first dignity of viscount
created in Scotland : in 1619, he was raised to the title
of Earl of Kellie. Some years since, upwards of thirty
pentagonal basaltic pillars were laid bare on the farm
of West Fenton.
FENWICK, a parish, in the district of Cunning-
hame, county of Ayr ; including the villages of Kirk-
town and Upper Fenwick, and containing 2018 inha-
bitants, of whom 355 are in Upper Fenwick, 4 miles
(N. N. E.) from Kilmarnock. This place in ancient
times formed part of the parish of Kilmarnock, from
which it was separated in the year 1642, and called New
Kilmarnock, its present appellation having been subse-
quently derived from Fenwick hill, in the vicinity of the
church. The parish is nine miles in length, and up-
wards of six in breadth, and is in figure nearly an
oblong, the surface rising gradually from the south to
the north, and reaching an elevation of about 700 feet
near the part where it joins the Mearns moor. The
climate is moist, and rain is very frequent, and the
soil to a great extent unproductive, several large tracts
consisting of deep moss, which, at many seasons in
the year, are impassable without risk of life. The
lower division contains most of the population, and the
land here produces good average crops ; the higher
grounds, bordering on Renfrewshire, are chiefly pas-
toral, and of excellent quality, and the stock grazed
upon them is of a good breed, and in superior condi-
tion. The process of draining has been for some time
attended to, and much land once entirely useless is now
under tillage, and affords good returns. Limestone is
FERG
F E 11 G
abundant, and is quarried in several places ; coal has
recently been discovered in much larger quantities than
those formerly obtained, and iron has also been found
in the same locality in considerable abundance, one bed
measuring five feet in thickness. The parish contains
several small hamlets ; the inhabitants generally dis-
pose of their produce at the markets of Glasgow and
Kilmarnock : coal is procured from the neighbourhood
of the latter place, and peat is obtained plentifully from
the mosses in the district. The public road from
Glasgow to Kilmarnock and Ayr passes through the
parish. The rateable annual value of Fenwick is £9366.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the presbytery of
Irvine and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and the patronage
vested in the Earl of Glasgow ; the minister's stipend is
£123, of which a part is received from the exchequer,
with a manse, and a glebe of eight acres, valued at
£24 per annum. The church, seated on the right bank
of one of the two streams which intersect the parish,
is a plain cruciform structure, built in 1643, and con-
taining between 700 and 800 sittings, all free. There
is a place of worship for members of the United Seces-
sion. The parochial school affords instruction in the
ordinary branches ; the master has a salary of £28,
with a good house, built in 1S05, a rood of garden, and
£20 fees. There is a second school, with an endow-
ment of £10 per annum; and the parish contains a
subscription library. The Earl of Glasgow takes the
title of Baron Boyle, of Fenwick, from this place.
FERGUS, ST., a parish, in the county of Banff,
5 miles (N. N. W.) from Peterhead ; containing 1391
inhabitants. This parish, which is locally situated in
Aberdeenshire, though annexed to Banffshire, was for-
merly called Langley ; it took its present name, in
honour of its patron saint, in the year 1616, when the
church was removed from its ancient site, the downs
called the Links of St. Fergus, where it had been erected
as a vicarage by the abbot of Aberbrothock. The lands
formed part of the great earldom of Buchan till its for-
feiture by the Cumyns in 1308 ; they afterwards came
into the possession of the ancient family of Cheyne,
who built the castle of Inverugie, and who, being heri-
table sheriffs of Banff, wished this property to be
placed under their own jurisdiction, for which pur-
pose they obtained an act of the legislature. The Car-
melite friary in Aberdeen was founded aud endowed
by one of this family, Reginald le Cheyne, who secured
to it, by deed, £2 annually out of the lands of Black-
water, in this parish. His son, Sir Reginald Cheyne,
■was lord chamberlain of Scotland in 1267 ; and another
son, named Henry, was bishop of Aberdeen in 1281.
Sir Reginald was succeeded in his property by a son of
the same name, who was made prisoner at the battle
of Halidon Hill in 1333, and who died about 1350,
leaving two daughters, Mary and Mariot, by the mar-
riage of the latter of whom with John de Keith, of
Raven's-Craig, the parish of St. Fergus passed into the
family of the Keiths. John de Keith was second son
of Sir Edward Keith, marischal of Scotland ; and the
issue of his marriage with Mariot Cheyne continued a
separate branch of the Keiths until, in 1538, the families
became united by the marriage of William, fourth
earl-marischal, with the heiress of Sir William Keith
of Inverugie. The property escheated to the crown in
1715, by the attainder of the then earl, and was sold
421
by the crown to the York Building Company. It was
purchased, however, from the trustees of the company
by George, son of the attainted earl, in 1761 ; and
in 1764 the family disposed of it to James Ferguson,
Esq., one of the senators of the College of Justice, with
whose descendants it has since remained.
The parish is five and a half miles in extreme length,
and its greatest breadth is three and a half miles ; it
contains 7S/S acres, and is bounded on the south by
the river Ugie, and on the east by the German Ocean.
The shore is marked only by one point of any note,
called Scotstown Craig, the beach being generally low
and sandy ; but at a small distance from the coast, a
line of hills runs along, covered with a thick bed of
drifted sand, overgrown with grass, and which divides
the shore from the interior land, and forms a natural
and efficient rampart against the drifting of the sands
into the country by the violence of the east wind.
These hills, varying in breadth, form the fine pasture
land known by the name of the Links of St. Fergus, and
afford, perhaps, the finest grazing for sheep and young
cattle of any downs in the country. In the lower part
of the parish, to the extent of a mile from the shore,
the ground is flat and uniform ; but afterwards it rises
towards the western extremity in a succession of grace-
ful undulations, exhibiting the pleasing aspect of a well
cultivated surface. The only high land approximating
to the character of an eminence is the Castle hill,
in the vicinity of Inverugie Castle. The climate, on
account of the exposure to the sea, is cold, and the
impervious character of the subsoil renders it damp ;
yet it is not found to be unhealthy. There are some
good springs in the lower lands which yield a constant
supply of water ; but in the upper part a drought
sometimes occurs, especially in the hot summer months.
The soil near the shore is a sandy loam mixed with
moss, requiring but little labour for cultivation ; it
produces turnips, potatoes, and heavy crops of grain,
which, however, is not so fine in quality as that grown
on the stronger lands. The middle portion of the
parish is a tenacious clay, yielding excellent grain : the
soil in the western district is not so good, being chiefly
clay and moss, and having not very long ago been a
moor. The larger part of the land is arable, scarcely
more than a sixth consisting of pasture, moss, and
plantations. The Aberdeenshire and Buchan cattle,
which, with their several crosses, formerly prevailed
here, have within these few years yielded to a great
extent to the Teeswater. The unfitness of the soil gene-
rally for the growth of turnips rather discourages the
breeding of cattle ; but the easy communication recently
opened with the London market has stimulated the
attempts to overcome this natural obstacle, and the
number of oxen, cows, and sheep is now very consider-
able. Many improvements have taken place by the
formation of main drains and ditches, the planting of
hedges, and the construction of various kinds offences;
the farm-buildings, also, are much better than formerly,
and the houses on the best farms are generally slated,
and the offices tiled. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £6172. The rocks consist of granite,
trap, gneiss, greywacke, and quartz, and these are seen
in all kinds of combinations : limestone is also found,
frequently mixed with gneiss and granite. There are
some tracts of peat-moss, in which remains of oak,
F E R N
F E R R
hazel, and birch are imbedded ; the antlers of full-grown
stags have been found, and large quantities of marine
testacea.
The parish contains three mills, at one of which,
called Stone mill, were produced in a recent year, 150S
sacks of meal, of two and a half hundred-weight each,
sent to the London market, 314 forwarded to Shetland,
and 200 for home consumption ; 613 sacks of flour
and 100 sacks of barley, also, were prepared for domes-
tic use. There is a salmon-fishery on the Ugie, but it
has been much injured by a sand-bank thrown up by
the sea at the mouth of the river, and which prevents
the fish from entering, unless it happens to be driven
back by the force of a land flood. Considerable num-
bers of black-trout, and the pearl muscle, are found in
the river ; but, the pearls are not of great value, being-
dingy and opaque. The neighbouring seas, also, abound
with fine fish, consisting of turbot, sole, ling, dog-fish,
whiting, herring, plaice, flounder, cod, and halibut ; but
the most valuable of these are seldom taken, as the
fishermen have no nets suitable for the purpose. There
is a small village, independently of the kirktown ; but
the larger part of the population is scattered through-
out the rural districts. The turnpike-road from Fra-
serburgh to Peterhead runs along the parish from north
to south ; and over the Ugie is a bridge for it, built in
the latter part of the seventeenth century, and con-
necting St. Fergus with the parish of Peterhead. The
ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery
of Deer and synod of Aberdeen ; patron, the Crown :
the stipend of the minister is £917, with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £18 per annum. The church, erected
in 1763, is a convenient structure, tastefully decorated
in the interior, and having three galleries; it contains
610 sittings. There is a small meeting-house belonging
to the Baptists ; and a parochial school is supported, in
which Latin, mathematics, and the usual branches of
education are taught, the master receiving a salary of
£34 per annum, with about £20 fees. A good parish
library was founded in 1829, and a savings' bank in
1824. The chief relic of antiquity is the ruin of Inver-
ugie Castle, formerly the residence of the earls-mari-
schal of Scotland, and the birthplace of Field-Marshal
Keith, who fell at the battle of Hochkirchen in 1758 :
one of the towers, of great antiquity, is called Cheyne's,
but the greater part of the fabric is said to have been
erected by the earl who founded Marischal College,
Aberdeen. The churchyard, on the coast, is a very
ancient cemetery, and of such singular interest, partly
on account of the loneliness of its situation, that the
late Dr. Beattie often expressed a wish to have his
remains deposited here.
FERGUSHILL, a village, in the parish of Kil-
winning, district of Cunninghame, county of Ayr ;
containing 279 inhabitants. This village has sprung
up within the last few years owing to the extension of
coal-mines in its vicinity, the population being princi-
pally engaged in the works ; and it has already become
one of the chief villages of the parish.
FERNIE EASTER, a hamlet, in the parish of
Monimail, district of Cupar, county of Fife, 3 miles
(W.byN.) from Cupar; containing 44 inhabitants. It lies
nearly in the centre of the parish ; and in its vicinity is
Fernie Castle, which is supposed to have been one of
Macduff's castles, and was evidently of great strength.
422
FERNIGAIR, a hamlet, in the parish of Hamil-
ton, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 1 mile
(S. E. by E.) from Hamilton ; containing 74 inhabitants.
It is situated in the eastern part of the parish, and on
the turnpike-road from Hamilton to Larkhall : the Clyde
flows at a short distance from the village.
FERRYDEN, a village, in the parish of Craig,
county of Forfar ; containing 921 inhabitants. This is
a considerable village, situated on the south bank of the
South Esk river, immediately opposite the harbour of
Montrose, and is a prosperous place, with a rapidly
increasing population, chiefly fishermen and their fami-
lies. Between twenty and thirty boats are engaged in
the white-fishery alone, which here consists principally
of cod, haddock, and skate, all taken in great quantity ;
and much salmon is also caught at the mouth of the
Esk, the various kinds of fish from this quarter largely
supplying the Edinburgh and London markets. There
is a good harbour, with a safe roadstead ; and here, pre-
viously to the erection of bridges higher up the river,
was a ferry to Montrose. In the village is a school,
supported by an endowment, bequeathed by a benevo-
lent lady, lately deceased.
FERRYPORT-ON-CRAIG, a parish, in the district
of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 1 1 miles (N. E. by N.)
from Cupar; containing 1741 inhabitants, of whom.
1556 are in the village. This place formed part of the
ancient lands of Craig, belonging to Archbishop Sharp,
of St. Andrew's, who, by authority of the pope, granted
them on lease to the Scotts, of Balwearie, in Fifeshire,
from whom, to distinguish them from others in the
county, of the same name, they received the appellation
of Scotscraig, which they still retain. The name of the
village is obviously derived from the establishment of a
ferry over the Tay to the opposite shore at Broughty,
to which ferry, previously to the erection of a pier for
their better accommodation, passengers had access only
by means of a platform of timber extending to the
boats from the rugged rocks which girt the coast. The
lands are supposed to have been part of the parish of
Leuchars previously to the year 1606, when, by act of
James VI., they were erected into a distinct parish ;
and in confirmation of that opinion, one of the fields is
still called the Chapel, probably from the existence of a
chapel of ease to the mother church prior to the sepa-
ration. There was a castle at this place, but at what
time or by whom it was founded, does not appear:
from the style of the building, as far as can be ascer-
tained from the small portions of it still remaining, it
seems to have been adapted for the use of cannon, and
to have been erected to defend this pass of the river, in
conjunction with the castle of Broughty, in Forfarshire.
The parish is bounded on the north by the river Tay,
which washes its coast for nearly five miles before it
falls into the German Ocean ; it differs greatly in
breadth, not. exceeding in the widest part a mile and a
half, and comprises 2600 acres, of which 1400 are
arable, 120 woodland and plantations, and the remain-
der rough pasture and waste. The surface is abruptly
varied, being in the eastern parts flat and low, and in
others rising into ridges of craggy rock. Its rugged
aspect has under recent improvements been consider-
ably softened, and many rocks near the village, which
is situated on the shore, have been removed; but to
the westward the lands are still precipitous, and very
FE R R
FETL
irregular. Except the Tay, there is no stream of any
consequence; but numerous springs in the higher
grounds, descending to the low lands, afford an abun-
dant supply of excellent water. The soil in the lower
parts of the parish is a light loam, resting on a bed of
sand j and in the higher, a rich black loam, on a sub-
stratum of whinstone. The agricultural district is
■under good cultivation, and extremely productive ; the
crops are, barley, oats, rye, and wheat, with potatoes,
of which considerable quantities are raised for the Lon-
don market, turnips, and the usual green crops : flax
was formerly grown to a good extent, but for many
years has been totally discontinued. The pastures
maintain large numbers of sheep and cattle, the former
chiefly a cross between the Cheviot and Leicestershire
breeds, and the latter a mixture of the Fife, Angus, and
Ayrshire : there is a small undivided common of about
twenty acres, on which all the inhabitants have a right
of pasturage. The woods consist mainly of larch and
oak, which latter, though of recent introduction, appears
to thrive well. The farm-buildings are in general sub-
stantial and commodious, and some, of more modern
erection, are of very superior order ; but little progress
has hitherto been made in inclosing the lands, which,
with the exception of a few fields, are wholly open.
The rateable annual value of Ferryport-on-Craig is
£3191.
The principal proprietor in the parish is the owner of
Scotscraig, whose mansion, erected in 1807, is a spa-
cious structure, beautifully situated in grounds taste-
fully laid out, and embellished with plantations. The
village consists of more than 300 neatly-built houses,
chiefly one story in height, with a few of two stories,
and some larger houses of recent erection, which are
handsomely built, and roofed with blue slate. The
shore has been greatly improved by the levelling of
various eminences that impeded the communication
between the village and the river. Two piers have been
constructed at the ferry, at the larger of which vessels
laden with coal and other necessaries land their car-
goes for the supply of the neighbourhood, and whence
grain, potatoes, and other agricultural produce are
shipped for the London market ; the smaller pier is the
landing-place for passengers by the ferry-boats. There
is an extensive salmon-fishery belonging to the proprie-
tor of Scotscraig, and extending along the coast for the
whole length of the parish ; it formerly produced an
annual rental of £2000, but, since the disuse of stake-
nets, which were formerly employed, it yields only
about £600. Many of the inhabitants of the village
and parish are employed in hand-loom weaving for the
manufacturers of Dundee, to which, during the winter
months, they devote their chief attention, in the sum-
mer resuming their agricultural labours. A fair, once
very numerously attended, is still held in the village
on the first Tuesday in June (O. S.), but is now resorted
to only by a few dealers in general merchandise. Faci-
lity of communication between this place and the neigh-
bouring towns is partly afforded by an excellent line of
road extending for about three miles from the village to
Newport, which was formed in 1S30, at the sole expense
of Robert Dalgleish, Esq., at that time proprietor of
Scotscraig ; and regular intercourse with Dundee is
maintained, either by steamers from Newport, or by
sailing-packets which leave the ferry here daily. A
423
library, established in the village very recently, con-
tains a valuable collection ; and in 1S36, a savings' bank
was opened, which has proved successful. The parish
is in the presbytery of St. Andrew's and synod of Fife;
the minister's stipend is £159. 13., with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £35 per annum. The church, rebuilt
in 1S25, is a neat and substantial edifice situated in the
village, and adapted for a congregation of 900 persons.
There are also places of worship for members of the
Free Church and the United Secession. The parochial
school affords an extensive course of instruction ; the
master has a salary of £30, with £19 fees, and a good
house and garden. Five free scholars are taught in con-
sideration of a bequest for that purpose by William
Dalgleish, Esq. ; they are nominated by the proprietor
of Scotscraig and the incumbent of the parish, and
remain in the school for five years. There are also
several Sabbath-evening schools, supported by con-
tributions collected at the church. Some vestiges of
the Archbishop of St. Andrew's palace here are yet
remaining.
FETLAR and NORTH YELL, a parish, in the county
of Shetland; containing 1745 inhabitants, of whom
761 are in Fetlar, 36 miles (N. by E.) from Lerwick.
This parish, which is situated nearly at the northern
extremity of the Shetland isles, consists of the island
of Fetlar and the northern part of that of Yell. The
former is bounded on the north by the channel separat-
ing it from the islands of Unst and Uyea, on the south
by the wide channel which divides it from Whalsey
island and the Mainland, on the east by the German
Ocean, and on the west by Colgrave Sound, separating
it from the island of Yell. The latter district, North
Yell, is bounded on the west and north by the northern
ocean, and on the east by the frith called Blue Mull
Sound, which divides it from the island of Unst. Fetlar
is seven miles in length and four in breadth, and com-
prises 7S6f merks of land under cultivation (each mcrk
being about three-quarters of an acre), and between
10,000 and 12,000 acres which, with the exception of
1200, are undivided common; North Yell is six miles
long and five broad, and contains 634 merks of culti-
vated, and from 12,000 to 15,000 acres of uncultivated
land.
The situation is bleak, and the surface hilly ; but
there are no lofty elevations, the highest grounds not
rising more than 300 feet above the level of the sea, and
being, in each district, alternated with tolerably fertile
valleys. The islands are singularly irregular in figure,
and the coast is indented with fissures, creeks, and bays
of various extent. Of the last the principal, in Fetlar,
are those of Aith, Tresta, Strand, Mowick, Funzie, a ling-
fishing station, Gruting voe, and Urie bay, where a kind
of pier has lately been erected ; but none of these are
considered safe harbours. North Yell, in this respect,
has much the advantage, the bays of Basta voe and
Cullivoe forming excellent retreats and landing-places ;
besides which, it has the bays of Papal, Gloup voe, and
other inlets. Colgrave Sound, encompassing Fetlar
from south-west to north-west, is a rapid and dangerous
channel, about nine miles across in the widest, and
three miles in the narrowest, part. Blue-Mull Sound
measures in the narrowest part about a mile across,
and the Sound between the islands of Fetlar and Unst
is five miles broad; in both these channels, but espe-
F ETL
F E TT
cially in that of Blue-Mull, the tide runs with great
force, and the passage is often hazardous. The rocks
on the coast are frequently covered with sea-fowl ; wild
pigeons are numerous, and flocks of wild swans often
visit the islands. There are many small lakes, abound-
ing with trout, the largest of which is one in Fetlar,
near the manse, about three-quarters of a mile in length,
and a quarter in breadth.
The inhabitants are employed in agriculture and fish-
ing, the latter occupation engaging most of their atten-
tion. The soil in Fetlar comprises sand, clay, and marl ;
that in North Yell is chiefly a peat-moss : each pro-
duces good oats and potatoes, but barley is cultivated
only to a very limited extent, and wheat is rarely seen,
the want of inclosures to protect these kinds of grain,
and of sun to ripen them, being the chief obstacles.
The rotation system is partially practised 5 but the
ground is generally turned with a spade, the number of
ploughs being very small ; and the state of agriculture
throughout the two districts indicates strongly the want
of resources, and much more attention and skill, to
place it on a respectable footing. In North Yell, many
plots of common ground have recently been brought
under cultivation, and a few in Fetlar. The sheep and
cattle are mostly of the native breed, small but hardy,
and appear to thrive better than any others : a mixed
breed of sheep, introduced some time since by Sir
Arthur Nicolson, has not been found well suited to the
climate, and a few cows of a larger growth which have
been tried, have in the same manner proved unequal to
meet the severity of the district. The ponies bred are
of the same size, vigorous spirit, and untiring strength,
as those in the other isles of Shetland. The rocks
comprise mica-slate, quartz, thlorite-slate, gneiss, clay-
slate, and serpentine containing chromate of iron, the
last of which, formerly exceedingly abundant, was for
Jong occasionally quarried in the island of Fetlar.
With the common stone from the same locality, a man-
sion-house has been recently built by Sir Arthur Nicol-
son, and another by Mr. Smith, a heritor ; and quarries
.in the island of Yell have supplied a material for the
erection of the houses of Gloup, Greenbank, and Mid-
brake, the dressings, however, being of free-stone
brought from Lerwick. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £806.
■ The fisheries of ling and herrings, which are among the
principal, occupy much of the time of the inhabitants ;
in addition to which, tusk, cod, saith, and other kinds
are taken nearly all the year round. The fish caught in
winter are salted, and preserved in vats till spring,
when they are dried and exported to Leith ; the fish
taken in summer are preserved in the same manner,
and sent, not only to the market of Leith, but also to
Ireland and Spain : the produce of the herring-fishery,
which is carried on to a tolerable extent in August
and September, is forwarded, when cured, to Leith and
to Ireland. The stations for the ling-fishery are, Fun-
zie, on the eastern side of Fetlar, and Gloup, on the
north side of Yell, towards the northern ocean ; and
Urie, Strand, and Aith banks, in Fetlar, and Cullivoe
and Bayanne, in North Yell, are stations for the curing
of herrings. A large quantity of skate, halibut, had-
dock, sillock, piltock, and whiting, is also taken, fur-
nishing the inhabitants with a considerable portion
of their subsistence 5 and there are oysters at Basta voe,
424
and a good supply of several other kinds of shell-fish.
The parish is entirely destitute of conveyances and roads ;
and the intercourse with Lerwick, the only market-
town of the Shetlands, is so uncertain and dangerous,
that, although the post-office in North Yell communi-
cates twice a week with that place in fair weather,
letters are often delayed for a long time on their route.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the presbytery of
Burravoe and synod of Shetland, and the patronage
vested in the Earl of Zetland ; the minister's stipend is
£IS0, including the sum for communion elements, with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £9 per annum. There
are two churches, both very near the sea-shore ; that in
Fetlar was rebuilt in ] 790, and accommodates 269
persons, and that in North Yell was built in 1S32,
and contains sittings for 390. The Wesleyans have
a place of worship in Fetlar. The parochial school is
in North Yell, and affords instruction in reading, writing,
arithmetic, book-keeping, and navigation ; the master
has the minimum salary, and receives a few pounds in
fees. In Fetlar is a school of much longer standing than
the parochial school supported by the Society for Propa-
gating Christian Knowledge ; the master, who teaches
the same branches as those taught in the other school,
receives a salary of £15, and a small amount in fees.
There is also a small subscription library. The anti-
quities comprehend the remains of several chapels and
forts, a Roman camp at Snawburgh, several fonts, which
have been dug up at Aithsness, and a few urns contain-
ing ashes and bones.
FETTERANGUS, a village, in the parish of Old
Deer, county of Banff, 1§ mile (N.N. E.) from Deer;
containing 225 inhabitants. This place is locally situ-
ated in the shire of Aberdeen, and is a modern village,
erected on the estate of Mr. Ferguson, of Pitfour : the
population is employed chiefly in the linen manufacture.
A little east of the village is the great road from Fraser-
burgh to Aberdeen.
FETTERCAIRN, a burgh of barony and a parish,
in the county of Kincardine, 15| miles (W. S. W.) from
Stonehaven ; containing 1*93 inhabitants, of whom 3/2
are in the burgh. This place is supposed to have de-
rived its name from several cairns on the ascent of
one of the mountains by which it is bounded on the
north, raised over the remains of the warriors who
fell in battles which, according to tradition, were fought
in this pass of the Grampiaus. The only event of his-
torical importance connected with the parish, is the
murder of Kenneth III., King of Scotland, which took
place in the castle of Fenella about a mile to the west
of the village. The details of this occurrence, though
variously recorded by historians, ascribe the murder to
Fenella, the proprietor of the castle, in resentment of
the death of her son, whom that monarch had sentenced
to execution for rebellion. The lands of Fettercairn
were formerly the property of theMiddletons, of whom
John, the zealous adherent of Charles I. and II., was,
after the Restoration, created Earl of Middleton and
Viscount Fettercairn ; and the estates continued in the
possession of that family till 1777, when they were
purchased by Sir John Stuart, Bart., maternal grand-
father of the present proprietor.
The village, though possessing the privileges of a
burgh of barony, is not distinguished by any features
of importance. There are two libraries, of which one,
FETT
FETT
of about 500 volumes, is the property of the Fettercairn
Club, and the other, containing nearly an equal num-
ber, is parochial, and supported by subscription. At
Nethermill, adjoining the village, is a distillery of whisky
from malt only; and at Arnhall, on the banks of the
North Esk, is a mill for carding and spinning wool,
and for the manufacture of coarse woollen-cloths. The
post-office, under that of Montrose, has a daily delivery
by a messenger from that town ; and facility of com-
munication is afforded by good roads, kept in repair
by statute labour, and which pass through the village,
and intersect the neighbourhood in various directions.
The parish, which is situated in the western portion of
the county, on the south of the Grampian hills, is
bounded on the south-west by the North Esk river for
about three miles, and is nearly eight miles in length
and four and a half in breadth, comprising an area of
13,000 acres, of which 7500 are arable, 1800 woodland
and plantations, and the remainder pasture, moss, and
waste. The surface rises gradually, in gentle undula-
tions, to the base of the Grampian hills, of which the
highest within the parish has not an elevation of more
than 1600 feet above the level of the sea. There are
numerous springs, some with a chalybeate property;
but the only river is the North Esk, over which is the
romantic bridge of Gannachy, connecting the parish
with that of Edzell, a structure of one arch thirty feet
in height and fifty-two feet span, springing from two
precipitous rocks, and built in 1732, by Mr. Black, of
Edzell. The soil is various, in some parts alluvial, in
some a stiff clay, and in others a deep moss alternated
with gravel ; the crops are, wheat, barley, oats, potatoes,
and turnips. The system of agriculture has been con-
siderably improved under the auspices of the Fettercairn
Club, who hold their meetings in the village ; much of
the waste land has been reclaimed by draining ; the
farm-buildings are comfortable and substantial, the lands
well inclosed, and on most of the farms threshing-mills
have been erected. Much attention is paid to the im-
provement of live stock ; the sheep, with the exception of
a few Cheviots, are generally of the black-faced breed,
and the black- cattle of the Augusshire, with some of the
Aberdeenshire and Ayrshire. Considerable numbers of
swine are also reared, all of the Chinese breed. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £9107.
The plantations, which are extensive, consist of the
usual varieties, the most conspicuous being the ash,
beech, and fir ; they are under careful management, and
in a thriving state. The principal substrata are, red
freestone, whinstone, and limestone ; and porcelain clay
of fine quality is found on the banks of a small burn,
at Balnakettle. Fettercairn House is an ancient edifice,
to which large additions have been lately made by the
proprietor. Fasque is a spacious house in the castel-
lated style, beautifully situated on an eminence, in
diversified grounds, in which is a fine sheet of w:ater
twenty acres in extent, which, with the stately approach to
the house, was formed by the present owner. The Burn
House is a handsome modern mansion, on the banks of
the North Esk, in a richly-planted demesne, tastefully
laid out in walks, and commanding much picturesque
scenery. Balbegno Castle is an ancient and spacious
building, on the parapet of which are various sculptures
and the date 1509; the interior contains a noble hall,
of which the lofty roof of stone is richly groined, and
Vol. I.— 425
divided into sixteen compartments, in which are em-
blazoned the armorial bearings of sixteen peers of
Scotland. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Fordoun and synod
of Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend is £232,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum ;
patron, the Crown. The church, erected in 1804, and
enlarged in 1S39, is a handsome structure, with a tower,
and spire rising to the height of 104 feet; it is beau-
tifully situated, and contains 1000 sittings, of which the
number may be easily augmented. The members of
the Free Church have a place of worship. The paro-
chial school is well conducted ; the master has a salary
of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees average
about £30 per annum, to which maybe added £1. 15.,
the rent of a bequest in land. A female school in the
village is supported by Sir John Stuart Forbes, who
provides a school-room and house rent-free for the mis-
tress, to whom he pays a salary, in addition to the school
fees. An almshouse has been built by Mr. Gladstone
for eight people, to each of whom he allows a room and
garden. Dr. Ramsay, of Barbadoes, bequeathed £500 ;
Provost Christie, of Montrose, £50; James Black, the
builder of Gannachy bridge, 200 merks ; George Cooper,
of Slateford, £20; R. Valentine, of Bogindollo, £50;
Anthony Glen, of Luthermuir, £20; and James Smith,
of Fettercairn, several houses ; all intended for the
relief of the poor of the parish. In the village is pre-
served the ancient cross of Kincardine, an octagonal
column to which is an ascent of six stone steps ; on
the capital are the arms of John, Earl of Middleton,
with his coronet and initials. Greencairn, the supposed
residence of Dame Fenella, is now a heap of shapeless
ruins.
FETTERESSO, a parish, in the county of Kincar-
dine ; containing, with about two-thirds of the town
of Stonehaven, 5212 inhabitants. This place, of which
the name, in the Celtic language, is perhaps descriptive
of the marshy nature of its lands, is of very remote
antiquity, and is distinguished as the site of a station
occupied either by the Caledonians or the Romans.
The latter people, having, under Agricola, subdued the
southern portion of the country, advanced with an
army of 26,000 men towards the north, and, near
the Grampian mountains, and most probably in this
neighbourhood, encountered the Caledonians under
Galgacus, their king, who, with 30,000 men, defending
his country against the invaders, routed their ninth
legion, but was finally subdued. The remains of this
station, which inclosed an area of seventy-one acres,
and was defended by a vallum and fosse, are still nearly
entire ; and till within the few last years, there were
existing the remains of another camp near Stonehaven,
about three or four miles distant from the former. The
ancient forest of Craigie, and subsequently the whole of
the lordship of Cowie, in this parish, together with
numerous other lands in the counties of Aberdeen and
Kincardine, were granted by Robert Bruce to his
steady adherent, Sir Alexander Fraser, who signalised
himself at Bannockburn, and was killed in the battle
of Duplin, in 1332. Upon his death the principal lands
descended to his son, whose only daughter and heiress
conveyed them, by marriage, to Sir William de Keith,
the great marischal of Scotland, and ancestor of the
familv of the earls-marischal, whose chief residence in
3 I
FETT
FE TT
this part of the country was for many ages the castle
of Fetteresso, in which James VII., after his landing at
Peterhead in 1715, was for some time hospitably enter-
tained. On the attainder of the last earl, the estates
were forfeited to the crown ; and in the year 1782,
the castle and property of Fetteresso were bought by
the late Admiral Duff, in whose family they still re-
main. A portion of the lands, now the barony of Ury,
was inherited by Sir William, a second son of Sir
Alexander Fraser, who sold it in 1413 to William de
Hay, lord of Errol, and constable of Scotland ; and it
was subsequently purchased by the Marischal family,
who, in 1647, sold it to Colonel David Barclay, whose
descendant is the present proprietor.
The parish, which is bounded on the east by the
German Ocean, is about ten miles in length, and be-
tween five and six in breadth, comprising an area of
24,914 acres, of which about 10,000 are arable, 2000
woodland and plantations, and the remainder meadow,
pasture, and waste. The surface is abruptly varied,
though not rising into mountainous elevation ; and the
scenery embraces much diversity of chai-aeter, in some
parts enriched with thriving plantations and being pleas-
ingly picturesque, in others dreary and barren. The
river Carron, which separates the parish from that of
Dunnottar, forms its southern boundary for about five
miles, and falls into the sea at Stonehaven ; and the
Cowie, which flows through the parish in a direction
nearly parallel, falls into the sea at the small bay of
Cowie, to the north. The surface is also intersected by
two rivulets, Muchalls and Elsick, which though gene-
rally inconsiderable, are sometimes swollen by the ac-
cession of numerous streamlets, and inundate the adja-
cent lands. The soil is extremely various ; in the east
and south, rich and fertile ; in other places, of very
inferior quality ; and in some parts wholly unprofitable.
The system of agriculture was greatly improved by the
late Mr. Barclay, who, by great perseverance, brought
it to its present state of perfection : several of the lands
have been carefully drained. The chief crops are oats
and barley, with some wheat, which is not however in
extensive cultivation, and turnips, of which very con-
siderable quantities are grown : several portions of land
are let in small lots annually, for raising potatoes, which
are partly shipped from Stonehaven for London. The
pastures are very extensive, and there are numerous
herds of cattle, chiefly of the Angus, with some of
the Teeswater or short-horned breed ; nearly 400 are
fattened annually, and sent to the different markets
in the district, and to London and other distant parts
by steamers from Aberdeen. The horses are chiefly
reared for agricultural uses, and but little attention
has been paid to the improvement of the breed. The
sheep are of various kinds, and part of them of the
Leicestershire breed, of which a few are shipped for the
London market ; they are mostly fed upon turnips on
the several farms, but some are pastured on the hills,
though not to so great an extent as formerly. The
dairy-farms are well managed ; and large quantities of
butter, cheese, poultry, and eggs are forwarded to Aber-
deen and Stonehaven. The farm-buildings have been
much improved, and on most of the farms are threshing -
mills, of which many are driven by water, and one by
steam-power. The woods and plantations are exten-
sive j the former, though in parts unproductive from
426
the nature of the subsoil, still contain a good deal of
valuable timber, and the latter, with the exception of
the larches on some particular lands, are generally
thriving. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£19,209.
Fetteresso Castle, the ancient seat of the Marischal
family, beautifully situated on the north bank of the
Carron, was partly rebuilt by the late Mr. Duff; it is a
spacious mansion, surrounded by an extensive and well-
wooded park, in which is some stately timber, and the
gardens and pleasure-grounds are tastefully laid out.
Ury, originally built by the Hay family, is situated on a
steep acclivity of the river Cowie ; it is of moderate
extent, but of great strength, with vaulted roofs of stone.
The park is extensive, and contains many trees of vene-
rable growth, and some thriving modern plantations ;
the grounds are well disposed, and the gardens, formed
on terraces, add greatly to the beauty of their appear-
ance. Netherley and Muchalls are handsome mansions :
the latter, a fine old edifice, for ages the residence of
the Burnet family, is on an eminence near the sea.
Elsick is also an ancient mansion, formerly belonging
to the Bannermans ; Cowie is a small but handsome
house. There are several fishing-villages on the coast ;
one at Cowie, where eight boats are engaged, each with
a crew of five men ; one at Sketteraw, employing seven,
and one at Stranathro, having four boats. At these
stations are small harbours, well adapted for the pur-
pose. The chief fish taken off the coast are, haddock,
cod, and ling, of which great quantities, especially of
haddock, are dried and smoked, and sent for the supply
of the neighbouring towns, and by steamers from Aber-
deen to London. The inhabitants of these villages are
during the season employed in the herring-fishery, in
which about fifteen boats are usually engaged. There
are also some salmon-fisheries in the parish, let to
tenants whose aggregate rents, however, do not exceed
£100 per annum; the greater number of the salmon
are forwarded to London. Woollen-cloth for domestic
use is woven by several families in the parish, and there
is a small mill for spinning the yarn ; many of the
females, also, are employed in knitting woollen-hose for
the manufacturers of Aberdeen. Facility of communi-
cation is afforded by good roads, of which the turnpike-
road from the south to Aberdeen passes through the
parish, and by the Aberdeen and Edinburgh steam-
boats, which touch here on their way. Fairs, chiefly for
cattle, are held at Muchalls frequently during the year.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Fordoun and synod of Angus
and Mearns. The minister's stipend is £253. 11., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £16 per annum ; patron,
the Crown. The present church, erected in 1813, on a
site near Stonehaven, is a handsome structure contain-
ing 1400 sittings : some remains exist of the ancient
church, to which is attached an extensive cemetery, still
used. There is a chapel of ease at Cookney, on the
lands of Muchalls, a neat building with 700 sittings, the
minister of which derives an income from the seat-
rents ; and on the same lands is an episcopal chapel.
Two parochial schools are maintained, one in the north-
ern, and one in the southern district of the parish ;
the master of the former has a salary of £34, with fees
amounting to £20 per annum, and the latter a salary of
£17, and £10 fees, one of them having also a house.
FIFE
FIFE
A school was established at Cairn Hill by the Rev. Dr.
Morison, who endowed it with a house and garden for
the master, and the interest of £100. The poor have
the proceeds of some charitable bequests, among which
is a legacy of property supposed to be worth £500, by
two females of the name of Duns. There are Druidical
remains in several parts of the parish. Various pieces
of ancient armour, chariot wheels, and other relics have
been found at Kempstone Hill, the supposed field of
battle between the Caledonians under Galgacus and the
Romans ; and in the vicinity of the camp near Stone-
haven, sepulchral urns were not long since discovered.
A tumulus on the lands of R. W. Duff, Esq., is said to
have been erected over the remains of Malcolm I. ; and
at no great distance were discovered, in 1837, a skeleton,
an urn about twenty-eight inches in circumference and
six inches in depth, and more than 100 jet beads, all in
a tomb about three feet in length and two feet wide.
On the summit of a rock near the sea, at Cowie, are
some remains of an ancient building thought to have
been a castle.
FIARAY ISLE, in the parish of Barra, county of
Inverness. It is one of the Hebrides, lies about a mile
northward of Barra, and is uninhabited.
FIDREY ISLE, in the parish of Dirleton, and
county of Haddington. This is a small and beautiful
island, situated at the mouth of the Frith of Forth, about
half a mile distant from the coast, and opposite to Dir-
leton. On it are the ruins of a building, an ancient
chapel, or a lazaretto for the sick, which was dedicated
to St. Nicholas.
FIFE-KEITH, a village, in the parish of Keith,
county of Banff; containing 578 inhabitants. This
village is on the banks of the Isla, adjoining to and
opposite Old Keith, and is of very recent origin, having
been commenced by Lord Fife, from whom it takes its
name, about IS 17. It is connected, by two bridges over
the river, with Old and New Keith, the three places
being now considered as one town. — See Keith.
FIFESHIRE, a maritime county in the east of Scot-
land, bounded on the north by the river Tay, on the
east by the German Ocean, on the south by the Frith
of Forth, and on the west by the counties of Perth,
Kinross, and Clackmannan. It lies between 56° 3' and
56° 25' (N. Lat.) and 2° 35' and 3° 38' (W. Long.), and
is about 4S miles in length and 18 in extreme breadth,
comprising an area of 504 square miles, or 322,560
acres ; 30.54S houses, of which 29,036 are inhabited ;
and containing a population of 140,140, of whom 65,715
are males, and 74,425 females. This county anciently
formed part of the extensive district of Ross, which
derived its name from its peninsular shape, and included
the present counties of Kinross and Clackmannan, with
portions of the counties of Perth and Stirling, all under
one common jurisdiction. The lands of Clackmannan
were first separated from this district, and erected into
a distinct county; and subsequently, iu 1425, that por-
tion forming the head of the peninsula was made a
county under the appellation of Kinross. The remain-
der, including a small part previously belonging to
Perthshire, almost entirely constitutes the modern
county of Fife, of which the name is of obscure and
doubtful origin. The district, originally inhabited by
the ancient Caledonians, became subject to the Romans,
who penetrated into its most secluded retreats, and
427
subsequently to the Picts ; but the particular details of
its history during these periods are not distinctly
recorded.
After the subjugation of the Picts, and the union of
the two kingdoms under Kenneth II., that monarch,
in acknowledgment of the eminent services rendered to
him by Macduff, a powerful chieftain who had contri-
buted greatly to his victory, conferred upon him all the
lands he had conquered from the Picts. These extended
from Fifeness to Clackmannan, and from the rivers Tay
and Erne on the north, to the river Forth on the south ;
and of this territory the king also appointed him here-
ditary thane. Though occasionally subject to Danish
incursions, the district, from its central situation be-
tween the northern and southern divisions of the king-
dom, enjoyed almost undisturbed tranquillity under its
thanes, of whom Duncan Macduff, having aided in the
destruction of the usurper Macbeth, and in the resto-
ration of Malcolm Canmore, was created Earl of Fife
by that sovereign, and invested with many privileges,
which were made hereditary in his family. Among
these, the most important were, the placing of the Scot-
tish kings in the chair of state at the ceremony of their
coronation, the honour of leading the van of the royal
army, and the liberty of compromising for manslaugh-
ter by the payment of a fine proportioned to the rank
of the victim. This last immunity was commemorated
by the erection of a stone pillar called Macduff's cross,
a certain area around which afforded sanctuary. After
the death of Duncan, the twelfth earl, Murdoch, Duke
of Albany, by marriage with his only daughter, suc-
ceeded to the earldom of Fife, which, on his attainder in
1425, reverted to the crown. It was subsequently re-
vived as an Irish peerage in the person of William Duff,
of Braco, who was created Baron Braco of Kilbride, and
Earl of Fife, iu 1759 ; James, the second earl, was
made Baron Fife in the peerage of Great Britain in
1790, and the title is now vested in his descendant, the
present earl.
Prior to the Reformation, the county was included in
the archdiocese of St. Andrew's ; it is at present in the
synod of Fife, and comprises the presbyteries of St.
Andrew's, Cupar, Kirkcaldy, and Dunfermline, and
about sixty parishes. The shire is divided into the
districts of Cupar, Kirkcaldy, St. Andrew's, and Dun-
fermline : a sheriff's court is held at Cupar for the three
first-named, and one at Dunfermline for the last-men-
tioned district. The justices of the peace hold petty
sessions in all the districts, their decisions being
subject to revision by the courts of quarter-sessions,
which are held at Cupar, the county town. Besides the
county town, Fife contains the royal burghs of St. An-
drew's, Dunfermline, Inverkeithing, Burntisland, Kirk-
caldy, Kinghorn, Pittenweem, East and West Anstru-
ther, Dysart, Kilrenny, Crail, Auchtermuchty, Falkland,
and Earlsferry ; the towns of Leven, Largo, Limekilns,
Pathhead, Ferryport-on-Craig, Newport, Aberdour, Mark-
inch, and Newburgh, with numerous smaller towns
and villages. Several of the towns have been royal
residences, and many of them are sea-ports with tole-
rable harbours at high-water ; but the best harbour is
that at Burntisland, where a pier was built in 1S44, at
which steamers and other vessels may land goods and
passengers at all times of the tide. The principal port
of the county is Kirkcaldy : at Dysart is a wet-dock, in
3 12
FIFE
FIFE
which vessels are always afloat. Under the act of the
2nd of William IV., Fife returns one member to the
imperial parliament ; and there are also two districts
of burghs within the county, each of which sends a re-
presentative ; while Dunfermline and Inverkeithing join
with Culross, Stirling, and Queensferry, in sending
another.
The surface is pleasingly diversified with gentle un-
dulations, and in some parts with hills of lofty elevation;
and is separated by ranges of hills into several beautiful
and extensive vales, of which the principal, called the
Howe of Fife, is watered by the river Eden, described
below. The chief hills are, the East and West Lomond,
of which the former has an elevation of 1260, and the
latter of 12S0 feet above the level of the sea ; the Largo
Law, 1020 feet in height ; and the Kelly Law, which
is S0O feet. Most of the hills are covered with verdure
almost to their summit. The rivers are, the Leven, the
Eden, the Orr, and the Lochty : the Leven issues from
the lake of that name, in the county of Kinross, and,
flowing through a richly-cultivated strath, falls into the
Frith of Forth at Leven. The Eden has its source in
the confluence of several small streams in the parish of
Strathmiglo, and, taking an eastern direction, runs by
the town of Cupar, and joins the German Ocean at St.
Andrew's bay. The river Orr rises in a lake now
drained, and, pursuing a south-eastern course, in which
it is joined by streams from Loch Fittie and Loch Gellie,
and by the Lochty, flows into the Leven near Cameron
Bridge. The principal lakes are, Loch Lindores, about
a mile in length, and varying in breadth, abounding with
pike and perch, and beautifully situated in a richly-
wooded spot ; Loch Kilconquhar, in the parish of that
name, about two miles in circumference; Loch Gellie,
three miles round ; and Kinghorn loch, a natural reser-
voir situated near that town, which supplies the mills
with water.
The soil is exceedingly various ; along the Frith of
Forth, a deep rich loam alternated with clay and gravel ;
from the mouth of the Eden, along the shore north-
ward, a fine light, dry, and sandy soil ; to the south
of the Eden, of inferior quality. West of St. Andrew's
are tracts of moor and moss, with some intervening
portions of fertile land ; towards the river Tay, a rich
soil, resting on whin rock ; and on the slopes of the
hills, a productive clay, with loam and gravel. The
system of agriculture is in a highly improved state ; the
extent of the farms varies from fifty or sixty to 400 or
500 acres ; the buildings are generally substantial and
well arranged, and on most of the farms are threshing-
mills, of which some are driven by steam. The lands
have been drained, and are inclosed with walls of stone,
or hedges of hawthorn. The chief crops are, oats,
wheat, barley, turnips, and potatoes ; much attention
is paid to the rearing of cattle, and the number of sheep
is exceedingly great. The number of horses employed
in agriculture, in 1844, was S158, and otherwise, 2466 :
occasionally, numbers of pigs are fed. The planta-
tions are very extensive, but chiefly of modern growth:
on the lands of the Earl of Leven is a forest of Scotch
firs, several miles in length ; but little ancient timber is
found except in the grounds of some of the principal
mansions. The prevailing substrata are coal and lime-
stone, both of which are of good quality, and largely
wrought. Freestone of different colours, from a dark
428
red to a beautiful white, of compact texture, and sus-
ceptible of a high polish, is also abundant ; and in the
northern districts, whinstone, of which the rocks prin-
cipally consist, is predominant, and of excellent quality
for the roads. Ironstone is found in various parts ; in
some places in seams too thin to remunerate the labour
of working it ; in others in veins of greater extent,
and yielding from thirty-three to forty per cent, of
ore, wrought for the Carron Iron Company. Lead and
copper have been found in several places ; the former,
principally in the Lomond hills, has been wrought, but
not with any profitable result, and the works have been
discontinued. The seats are, Falkland House, Leslie
House, Melville House, Crawford Priory, Donibristle,
Balcarras, Broomhall, Dunnikeir House, Raith, Wemyss
Castle, Balcaskie, Bethune, Balbirnie, Craigsanquhar,
Dysart House, Elie House, Pitmilly, Dunbog, Rankeillor,
Lathrisk, Pitferran, Torry, Inchdairny, Strathendry,
Mugdrum, Rossie, Pittencrieff, Largo House, Newton-
Collessie, Durie, Innergelly, Mount Melville, Kelly
House, Cambo, Scotscraig, Fordel, Balgarvie, Lochore,
St. Fort, Kemback, Fernie, Kilconquhar, Charlton, Kil-
maron, and others. These mansions are for the most
part handsomely built, and, with their surrounding
grounds, form a striking feature in the scenery.
The principal manufacture is that of linen, which is
carried on throughout the county ; the fabrics are,
damasks, diapers, Osnaburghs, Silesias, and the plainer
kinds of brown linens, ticking, checks, and sail-cloth,
which are made in most of the villages. The spinning
of flax is carried on to a great extent ; and at Dunferm-
line, Kinghorn, Abbotshall, Leven, and other places, are
large mills for the purpose. The manufacture of paper,
soap, candles, and glue, is also extensive ; and there are
several iron-founderies, tanneries, potteries, brick and
tile works, numerous bleachfields on the Leven, a vi-
triol-work, breweries, distilleries, malting establishments
on a very large scale, and various other works. Ship-
building is carried on at the several sea-port towns
on the south. The commerce of the county con-
sists chiefly in the export of cattle and sheep, grain,
potatoes, and other agricultural produce, coal, lime-
stone, and lime ; and in the importation of timber,
bark, hides, tallow, flax, hemp, tar, iron, slates, groce-
ries, and other articles. Facility of communication is
afforded by good roads ; at Newport is a commodious
ferry across the Tay to Dundee, and steam-boats ply
daily from Largo, Leven, and Dysart, to Mid Lothian.
There are two ferries, also, of great importance across
the Forth ; one connecting Burntisland, in Fife, with
Granton ; and the other, higher up the Frith, connect-
ing North and South Queensferry. The total annual
value of real property in the county, assessed to the
Income tax for the year 1S42, was £50S,923, of which
amount £3S1,572 were for lands, £74,654 for houses,
£22,564 for mines, £4797 for quarries, £1159 for fish-
eries, and the remainder for other kinds of property not
comprised in the foregoing items. There are numerous
remains of antiquity, among which are the ruins of the
ancient abbey and palace of Dunfermline, the abbey of
Lindores, the palace of Falkland, the tower and chapel
of St. Regulus, Cardinal Bethune's Castle, the Castle of
Macduff, the Castle of Ravenscraig, Rosythe Castle, and
the Castle of Lochore, with various others, which are
noticed in articles on the places where they are situated.
FIND
FIND
FILLAN'S, ST., a village, in the parish of Comrie,
county of Perth ; containing 1*2 inhabitants. It is a
beautiful and romantic place, situated on the north
side of Loch Earn, and consists of a number of well-
built houses, rendered of pleasing appearance by shrub-
beries in front. Here was established some years since
the St. Fillan's Society, holding annual meetings for the
encouragement of Highland games and dress. A school
is supported by Lord Willoughby de Eresby, who allows
the teacher a salary of £20, and a dwelling-house and
garden. On the summit of Dun-Fillan hill is a rock
known as St. Fillan's Chair, and two small cavities are
said to have been made by the saint, the impression of
his knees from his constant habit of prayer.
FINAVON, or Finhaven, Forfar. — See Oathlaw.
FIND HORN, a burgh and sea-port town, in the
parish of Kixloss, county of Elgin, 4 miles (N. by E.)
from Forres ; containing S06 inhabitants. This place, the
name of which signifies "the mouth of the Erne," stands
on the northern boundary of the county, and near the
river Erne, or Findhorn, which expands into a capa-
cious bay called Loch Findhorn, on the west of the
town, and communicates by a narrow strait with the
Moray Frith. It is a burgh of barony, the sea-port of
Forres, and the property of H. A. I. Munro, Esq. ; it
is inhabited chiefly by fishermen, seafaring persons,
and a few merchants and tradespeople, and is the seat
of a very considerable traffic. This is the third town
of the same name, the first, which stood about a mile
west of the bar at the mouth of the harbour, and the
second, a little to the north of the present town, having
both been washed away by the sea. Even now, only a
small space, containing a broken bank of sand, inter-
venes between the tide-mark and the north end of the
town, forming the sole rampart against the tremendous
swell occasioned by north-easterly winds ; and this is
sometimes so torn and drifted by hurricanes, that the
sand covers the streets and gardens to the depth of
ten or twelve feet, threatening the town with destruc-
tion at no distant period. The river, affording fine
trout-angling, and famed for its romantic scenery, rises
in the mountains near Badenoch, and, after a serpentine
and impetuous course of about sixty miles from the
south-west, through the counties of Inverness, Nairn,
and Elgin, often carrying, in rainy seasons, desolation
to the neighbouring crops, expands into the bay already
referred to, and joins the Frith.
Findhorn is one of the safest harbours on the coast ;
it measures in length, from the bar at the north to its
southern limit, three and a half miles, the breadth vary-
ing from a little more than half a mile to two miles.
There are two quays of hewn stone, one of which was
recently erected with a breast-work, by which it is
joined to the old pier, at an expense of upwards of
£1300; superior accommodation is afforded for ship-
ping, and the depth of water in the channel, where most
shallow, is ten and a half feet at the lowest neap tide, and
from thirteen to seventeen at high tide. A considerable
part of the bay is dry at low water ; but the river, in
some places half a mile broad, has, at the lowest ebb of
stream tides, from twelve to fifteen feet of water, in
which the largest vessels can float in safety. The earth
and sand bank at the entrance, called the bar, and by
some supposed to be a portion of the land encroached
upon by the sea, would prove dangerous from its shif't-
429
ing with strong floods or easterly winds ; but the pilots
understand its nature so well, that an accident is
scarcely ever heard of. The fisheries pursued are those
of salmon, herrings, and haddock, which are carried on
with great spirit, and prove a source of considerable
emolument to the proprietors : about sixty men are
engaged, who follow their avocation in large boats
carrying several persons and from eight to ten tons'
weight of fish. The salmon-fishery produces annu-
ally, on an average, about six hundred boxes of fish,
each valued at £5, and sent, packed in ice, to the
London market : the herring-fishery, which has been
carried on for above twenty years, has for a long time
supplied 20,000 barrels every year ; and the haddock-
fishery is valued at £2000. There are twelve vessels
belonging to the port, together registered at 1000
tons, and occupied in an extensive coasting-trade. The
imports comprise great quantities of Sunderland and
Newcastle coal, and lime from the same places ; coal
from the Frith of Forth, slates from Ballichulish, iron
from Wales and Staffordshire, salt from Liverpool, and
large supplies of bone-dust for manure. The exports
for provincial use consist of herrings, grain, eggs, and
about 2000 loads of timber every year from the forests
of Darnaway and Altyre. The port is also visited by
foreign vessels, bringing iron, timber, and tar from
the Baltic, and timber from British North America ;
and there are regular trading smacks from London,
Leith, and Liverpool, with cargoes for Forres, Elgin,
and Nairn. A very good turnpike-road runs from
Findhorn to Forres, between which places there is a
daily post ; and from this road a branch diverges at the
bridge of Kinloss, eastward to Burgh-Head and Elgin.
Fairs are held in the town for the sale of sheep, black-
cattle, and horses, on the second Wednesday in March,
July, and October, O. S. An Assembly's school was till
lately supported, the master of which had a salary of
£20, and about £12 fees, with an allowance of £10
from Mr. Munro, of Novar, in lieu of land and other
accommodations : a school-room and a house for the
master were built a few years since, at a cost of £ 1 60,
raised by subscription and public collections. This
school is now maintained from the funds of the Free
Church, and is in strict connexion with it.
FINDOCHTY, a village, in the parish of Rathven,
county of Banff, 2| miles (N. E. by E.) from Buckie ;
containing 414 inhabitants. This is a fishing-village on
the coast of the Moray Frith, a short distance from Fin-
dochty point, and a mile and a half north-east of Rath-
ven. It was founded in 1716, on the property of the
then Earl of Findlater. The fishery here is very exten-
sive, affording employment to nearly the whole of the
male population, whose reputation for the superior cure
of herrings and other fish has been maintained for
upwards of a century. About forty boats, chiefly of the
larger size, belong to the place.
FINDOGASK, Perth.— See Cask, Nether.
FINDON, or Finnan, a village, in the parish of
Banchory-Devenick, county of Kincardine, 6J miles
(S. by W.) from Aberdeen; containing 190 inhabitants.
This is a fishing-village, situated on the eastern coast,
near Girdleness, and having a small harbour; it is cele-
brated for the finely-flavoured fish called the " Finnan
haddock," which are caught here, and cured in a pecu-
liar manner, by the smoke of peat. So delicate is this
F I NT
FI NT
fish that it can ravely be sold fresh, in an undepreciated
condition, at the distance of Edinburgh. Several boats,
and a large portion of the inabitants, are engaged in the
fishery, and, in the summer season, in that of herrings
in the Moray Frith.
FINNIESTON, a village and western suburb, within
the jurisdiction of the city of Glasgow, county of La-
nark ; containing 2096 inhabitants. This place, which
forms part of Anderston, was commenced by the foun-
der of that district on a plan laid down by his chaplain,
the Rev. Mr. Finnie, from whom it derived its name;
it consists of several streets, crossing each other at
right angles. The houses are well built, with garden
ground attached to each, and stretch northward from,
the banks of the Clyde, on which are some handsome
villas, occupied by the opulent merchants and manufac-
turers of the city, and which, from their elevated site,
command pleasingly interesting views. In the village
is a spacious manufactory of cut-glass, in which many
articles of the most elegant and brilliant quality are
produced. To the east of this place are Grahamston
and Brownfield, formerly distinguished as detached
suburban villages, but now forming an integral part of
the city.
FINNYFOLD, Aberdeen. — See Whinnie-Fatjld.
FINTRAY, a parish, in the district and county of
Aberdeen, 2§ miles (E.) from Kintore ; containing
1032 inhabitants. This place is said to have derived its
name from a Gaelic term signifying " the fair bank or
boundary of the river." It was formerly celebrated for
its abbey, nothing of which now remains but the foun-
dations ; it was called the Northern Abbey of Lindores,
and is supposed to have been erected in 13S6, that
date having been found upon a stone thought to have
been, on account of the situation in which it was dis-
covered, a part of the ancient building. The parish
is in that part of Aberdeenshire called Formartin, and
stretches from five to six miles along the bank of the
river Don ; it is from three to four miles in breadth,
and contains 6500 acres. It is bounded on the north
and west by the parish of Keith-Hall ; on the south by
the Don, which separates it from the parishes of Dyce,
Kinellar, and Kintore ; and on the east by New Machar.
The ground rises gradually towards the north to the
height of about 300 feet, after which it forms an easy
declivity. The violent and destructive floods of the
river, which runs from west to east, and falls into the
sea near Old Aberdeen, are among the most remark-
able events of modern times connected with the history
of the parish : the first of which account was taken hap-
pened in 1768, at harvest time, and carried away the
larger part of the crops from the lower grounds, just as
it was ready to be laid up in stacks. Another inunda-
tion took place in August, 1*99, and, in addition to a
considerable quantity of hay, swept away much grain then
standing uncut. A still more violent flood occurred on
Aug. 4, 1829, desolating to a great extent the property
of several individuals ; the water rose about fourteen
feet above its ordinary level, and nearly eighteen inches
higher than it had done in any former case in memory.
Good embankments, however, have been constructed ;
and at Fintray and Wester Fintray, about 300 acres of
land of very fine quality are now protected.
The soil varies considerably ; in the neighbourhood
of the river is a deep, rich, alluvial mould, while at some
430
distance inward the soil is much lighter. On the higher
land it is poor, consisting chiefly of peat-moss and moor ;
but in the northern quarter it improves in quality, and
rewards the labour of good cultivation. There are from.
5000 to 6000 acres cultivated, or occasionally in tillage ;
about S00 are pasture or waste ; and between 600 and
700 under wood. The produce is oats, peas, hay, pota-
toes, sometimes a little barley, and large quantities of
turnips, to the growth of which the soil is well adapted.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £4130. The
cattle are of the Aberdeenshire breed, many of which
are fed and fattened, and the horses are of superior
quality : a few sheep only are reared, and these chiefly
for gentlemen's pleasure-grounds. The improvements
in draining, inclosing, and embanking have been con-
siderable within the last few years ; and the farm-houses
and offices are in a far better condition than formerly.
The plantations are in a flourishing state. The prevail-
ing rock is granite, which is found in large quantities,
and of superior quality ; limestone may also be obtained,
but fuel is too scarce to admit of the necessary process
for converting it into lime. There is a good residence,
built in the cottage style, upon the lands of Disblair ;
but the chief mansion is Fintray House, a large and
excellent edifice lately erected by the chief proprietor
of the parish.
The manufacture of fine woollen-cloth is pursued at
Cothal mills, established in 1798, and regularly carried
on since that period : it produces about 8000 yards per
month. The recent introduction of the manufacture of
Tweed plaid has enabled the proprietor to employ a
considerably larger number of hands than formerly, to
meet the call for an extensive supply of this article, to
the production of which his works are particularly
adapted. The inhabitants of the parish are, however,
chiefly engaged in husbandry. There are well-con-
structed commutation roads passing in all directions
through the parish. The ecclesiastical affairs are sub-
ject to the presbytery of Aberdeen and synod of Aber-
deen, and the patronage is vested in Sir John Forbes,
Bart. : the stipend is £217, with a manse, built in 1S04,
and a glebe of the annual value of £10. The church,
which is a commodious and substantial building, was
erected in 1821, and has 500 sittings, all free. There is
a parochial school, in which Latin and mathematics are
taught, with the usual branches of education ; the mas-
ter has a salary of £28, with about £23 fees, a portion
of the Dick bequest, a house, and a quarter of an acre
of garden-ground. Another school is open, in which
the instruction is of the same kind as in the parochial
school ; the master receives the interest of £200 left by
the Rev. Dr. Morison, of Disblair, with fees, an allow-
ance from the Dick bequest, and a house and garden.
A silver cup is still in possession of the minister, having
the date of 1632, and believed to have been cast from a
silver head of St. Meddan, who was the tutelar saint of
the parish ; it is reported to have been carried in proces-
sion, on account of its magical virtues in procuring
suitable weather for the purposes of agriculture. •
FINTRY, a parish, in the county of Stirling,
17 miles (N.) from Glasgow ; containing, with the vil-
lages of Gonochan and Newtown, and the Clachan,
8S4 inhabitants. This parish is said to have derived
its name from Gaelic terms signifying " Fair land," and
applied in consequence of the picturesque appearance of
FI NT
F I 11 T
parts of the district, in contrast with the dreary moors
and barren mountains by which they are surrounded.
It is of an irregular form, extending about six miles in
length, from east to west, and five in breadth ; and
comprises 13,000 acres, of which 1000 are arable, 100
under wood and plantations, and the remainder hill
and moor pasture, chiefly laid out in large sheep-farms.
The surface, which embraces some of the highest ground
between the Friths of Clyde and Forth, is considerably
diversified, and marked principally by three ranges of
hills, and two intermediate, and beautifully rural and
fertile valleys. The ranges of hills are, the Fintry hills,
on the north ; a continuation of the Killearu line,
traversing the middle of the parish, and uniting with
the Dundaff range, on the west, in St. Ninian's parish ;
and a southern chain, continued from the Campsie Fells
and the Meikle Binn. These elevations are rich in
fern, moss, and lichen, and in the various valuable
botanical specimens peculiar to such localities ; the
moors abound with grouse and a variety of wild-fowl.
The chief rivers are the Carron and the Endrick, both
of which rise in the parish, and, watering the two val-
leys already referred to, contribute materially to enliven
their delightful scenery. The Carron, celebrated in
song, running by the margin of the Campsie hills, forms
the boundary line, for the distance of about two miles,
between Fintry and the parish of Campsie, after which,
leaving the valley, it enters a new district, and eventually
empties itself into the Forth. The Endrick, which
'receives a considerable accession to its waters by the
junction of the Gonochan burn, is a bold and preci-
pitous stream, passing with great noise, in some places,
along its rocky and rugged channel, and exhibiting a
magnificent cascade in its progress over a lofty rock,
commonly called the "Loup of Fintry," ninety feet in
height ; it loses itself at last in Loch Lomond. Both
these rivers are well stocked with trout ; and in the
latter, below the waterfall, a species called par is ex-
ceedingly numerous, and affords fine sport to the lovers
of angling.
The soil is in general productive ; and oats and
barley, which are the staple crops, are raised of very
excellent quality, together with hay, a great quantity of
which is obtained from an extensive tract called the
Carron bog, situated near the river of the same name.
The fine sheep-walks, however, formed of many small
farms broken up several years ago, and upon which
large numbers of live stock range, confer on the parish
its chief character, and are the principal source of
wealth to the landowner. About 4000 sheep are usually
kept, and nearly 1000 head of cattle, besides a good
supply of Ayrshire cows for the dairy, the produce of
which is of superior quality, and is disposed of in the
neighbouring towns and villages. Open drains are
frequently cut along the margin of the hills, to the
great advantage of the pastures ; and several excellent
farm-houses, with offices, have been built in different
parts of the parish within these few years. The rate-
able annual value of Fintry is £4610. The rocks are
of several kinds, and become so prominent in the
northern chain of hills as to invest the scenery with a
character of singular variety and grandeur; they chiefly
comprise granite, whinstone, freestone, and redstone,
here called firestone, and in the north-western portion
of the parish is a hill called Doun, formed partly
431
of a perpendicular rock about fifty feet in height, dis-
tributed into numerous beautiful basaltic columns.
Small quantities of coal are also found in different
places. The plantations, some of which are recent,
consist of various sorts of fir, oak, beech, &c. ; and en-
compassing Culcreuch House, an ancient mansion with
modern additions, situated in the north-west, is an
extensive sweep of fine old timber.
The chief village, designated Newtown, was built to
accommodate the population that sprang up in conse-
quence of the erection of a cotton-factory by the late
Mr. Speirs, nearly fifty years since; it is situated in the
western part of the parish. The establishment contains
20,000 spindles, and employs about 260 hands, the
machinery being partly driven by the water of the river
Endrick, collected for that purpose in a reservoir
covering about thirty acres. The intercourse kept up
with Glasgow by the conveyance of the raw material
and the manufactured goods, is said to have been the
occasion of a material improvement in the state of the
roads, and to have opened a larger market for the sale
of the farm produce. The village, the population of
which exceeds 500, also contains a distillery, erected in
1816, and producing annually 70,000 gallons of malt
whisky. There are likewise two hamlets, one called
Clachan, and the other Gonachan, in the former of
which are the church and manse, and in the latter the
parochial school, and near it a small wool-factory. The
numerous lambs bred here are generally sent for sale
to Glasgow, with a part of the dairy produce, the other
part being disposed of at Campsie and Kirkintilloch ;
the black-cattle are sold at Falkirk. The parish is in
the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr, and in the patronage of the Duke of Montrose ;
the minister's stipend is £155, with a manse, lately
rebuilt, and a glebe valued at £22 per annum. The
church is a neat structure with a tower at the west
end, built in 1823, and contains 500 sittings. The
master of the parochial school has a salary of £34, with
about £20 fees, and a house and garden. Another
school has lately been opened in the village, chiefly for
the benefit of the children of those employed in the
factor}'; about 100 attend in the day-time, and fifty
or sixty in the evening. The premises, which are spa-
cious, and comprise a house for the master, were
erected in consequence of a legacy of £3000 for that
purpose by Mr. John Stewart, a merchant of Fintry,
who died in 1S36, and who also left £500 to form a
fund for a savings' bank in the parish. There is a
small subscription library, which has been established
several years. The only relic of antiquity is the ruin
of an ancient castle, with a fosse and mound, the former
residence of the Grahams, of Fintry ; it stood on the
south side of Fintry hill, opposite Sir John de Graham's
castle in the parish of St. Ninian's, which was burnt
down by Edward I. after the battle of Falkirk. The
parish confers the title of Baron on the Duke of
Montrose.
FIRTH and STENNESS, a parish, in the county of
Orkney, the former district 6 miles (W. by N.) and the
latter S miles (W.) from Kirkwall; containing 1167
inhabitants, of whom 5S4 are in Firth. These ancient
parishes, which appear to have been united soon after
the abolition of episcopacy in Scotland, are situated on
the Mainland of the Orkney Islands, and are bounded
FI RT
FLAN
on the north by the parishes of Harray and Rendall, on
the east by the parish of Kirkwall, on the south by
that of Orphir, and on the west by the parishes of Sand-
wick and Stromness. The coast, including the small
island of Damsay and the holm of Grimbister, detached
portions of Firth, lying in the bay of that name, is
about ten miles in length, and the shores low and flat,
with few or no headlands of importance. The bay of
Firth abounds with fish of various kinds ; and oysters
of large size, and of excellent quality, are found in
considerable numbers. The island of Damsay, more
than a mile in circumference, is extremely beautiful ;
its surface is covered with verdure, affording luxuriant
pasture for sheep, of which a few hundreds of superior
breed are kept within its limits. On this island was
anciently a castle, which at that time was regarded
as a place of much strength ; and there was subse-
quently a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, of which,
however, little more than the site remains.
The parish is about nine miles in extreme length, and
varies greatly in breadth : the number of acres, from
the great irregularity of form, has not been ascertained.
The surface is broken by numerous ridges of hilly moor-
land, covered with heath and moss to the very summit ;
the soil near the shore is a deep mossy loam, and in
other parts shallow. There are some portions of arable
land in good cultivation, yielding tolerable crops, and
some fields of rich pasture near the borders of the loch
of Stenness, and in parts of Firth ; but in general little
improvement has been made in agriculture. The loch
of Stenness, to the north-west, is a noble sheet of water
nearly five miles in length, and divided almost into two
separate lakes by the projection of a strip of land from
the north-west to the bridge of Broigar. In that por-
tion of the lake which is bounded by the parish of
Harray on the east, are numerous small holms, fre-
quented by great numbers of aquatic fowl of various
kinds ; and the shores are embellished with fields of
natural grass, alternated with others of highly-cultivated
land, and studded with neat houses belonging to the
proprietors of small farms that acknowledge no superior
landlord. On the peninsula dividing the lake are the
celebrated stones of Stenness, one of the most extensive
and complete Druidical relics in the' count}', consisting
of a circle, nearly entire, of massive and lofty columns,
beyond which are a semicircle, with several single stones
irregularly placed, and numerous cairns. Burness, a
seat in the parish, is a handsome mansion finely situated
on the shore of the bay of Firth. There is but one
village, namely that designated Phinstown, seated at
the western extremity of the bay : the platting of straw
affords employment to part of the females, who work
at their own homes for the manufacturers of Kirkwall
and Stromness. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Cairston and
synod of Orkney. The minister's stipend is £158, of
which part is paid from the exchequer, with a manse,
and two glebes valued together at £27 per annum ;
patron, the Earl of Zetland. There are two churches,
that of Firth, built in 1313, and the church of Stenness,
in 1793, and repaired and reseated in 1816; they are
both neat structures, and contain each about 700 sit-
tings. Divine service is performed in each regularly
every Sunday. The whole of the services were until
recently performed by the incumbent alone ; but he is
432
now assisted by a missionary, for whose support the
General Assembly give the annual sum of £30, while
one of the proprietors contributes £20. There are
also, in the parish, places of worship for members
of the Free. Church and the United Secession. The
parochial school is well attended ; the master has a
salary of £26, with a house and garden : the fees are
very inconsiderable. There is in each of the districts
a school supported by the Society for Propagating
Christian Knowledge, who pay each of the teachers a
salary of £15 per annum. In the neighbourhood of
Garmiston, in Stenness, is an extensive plain between
two hills, on which are numerous tumuli, supposed to
cover the graves of the slain in the battle of Summers-
dale, or Bigswell, which took place in the reign of
James V., between the inhabitants, under Sir James
Sinclair, son of Robert, Earl of Orkney, and a body of
men under John, Earl of Caithness, who, pretending to
have some claim to the eai-ldom, landed at Howton in
order to take forcible possession of it.
FISH HOLM ISLE, in the parish of Delting,
county of Shetland. It is a small island of the Shet-
land group, situated northward of the Mainland of the
parish, and in the southern part of Yell Sound.
FISHERROW, county of Edinburgh. — See
North esk.
FLADA, an isle, in the parish of Kilmuir, county
of Inverness. It is of very small extent, and lies close
to the north coast of the Isle of Skye : the soil affords
pasturage for sheep.
FLADA-WHEIN, an isle, in the parish of Kil-
muir, county of Inverness. This is one of the
Hebrides, lying about six miles northward from the
nearest point of the Isle of Skye ; it is two miles in
circumference, and its coasts abound with fish. The
quality of the grass here is very good, and the land is
wholly appropriated to the pasturage of sheep. Al-
though the isle stands in the midst of a salt, deep, and
rapid channel, it contains two or three fresh-water
springs. In its vicinity are four smaller islets, each
capable of rearing a few sheep.
FLADDA, an island, in the parish of Barra, county
of Inverness; containing 7 inhabitants. It is a small
islet of the Hebrides, lying between the island of Barra
and island of Sanderay.
FLADDA, an isle, in the parish of Portree, isle of
Skye, county of Inverness ; containing 29 inhabit-
ants. It lies in the Sound of Rona, and westward of
the northern point of Raasay island.
FLADDAY ISLE, in the parish of Harris, county
of Inverness. This is a flat islet, situated within the
island of Scarp, at the entrance of Loch Resort, and on
the western side of the Mainland of Harris.
FLANNAN ISLES, a group of seven islands, in the
parish of Lewis, county of Inverness. They lie
seventeen miles north-west of Gallan Head, in Lewis,
and are supposed to be the Insula; Sacra: of ancient
writers, and to have been the residence of the Druids
from the number of Druidical remains still found upon
them. The largest islet has an area of about eighty
acres, and the second in size perhaps twenty acres, and
both are noted for fattening sheep ; the rest are of much
smaller dimensions, and altogether unoccupied. Vari-
ous kinds of sea-fowl resort hither ; and when, on the
arrival of a boat, they come out of their holes, they are
F L I S
F OCH
described as covering the surface of the islands, and
giving them " the appearance of a meadow thickly
enamelled with field-flowers." Though this group is
much dreaded by mariners, it would seem that the
danger of approach is not great.
FLAWCRAIG, a hamlet, in the parish of Kin-
naird, county of Perth, 1 mile (S. W. by W.) from
Kinnaird; containing 44 inhabitants. It lies in the
southern part of the parish, and on the road between
Kinnaird and Fingask.
FLISK, a parish, in the district of Cupar, in the
county of Fife, 8 miles (N. W. by N.) from Cupar;
containing, with the hamlet of Glenduckie, 270 inha-
bitants. This place is supposed to have derived its
name, descriptive of wetness or moisture, from the
situation of the lower grounds, which, stretching along
the Tay on one continued level, were formerly subject
to occasional inundations. The parish lies on the south
bank of the river, and is about four miles in length, and
of very irregular form, varying from half a mile to two
miles in breadth ; it comprises 2500 acres, of which
430 are pasture, 300 woodland and plantations, and the
remainder arable land in profitable cultivation. The
surface near the river is flat, but rises gradually towards
the south till it attains a considerable elevation, forming
part of a hilly range, of which the highest points are,
Lyndemus hill, Logie Law, and Glenduckie hill, the
first of which is about. 750 feet above the level of the
river. The beach is clayey, and is defended by an accu-
mulation of shingle thrown up by the tide. The soil is,
for the greater portion, a loam intermixed with clay ; in
some parts, especially towards the river, clay and gravel ;
and in others, a rich black loam of great fertility. The
scenery is in several places enlivened with flourishing
plantations, chiefly of larch and Scotch fir ; the timber
in Flisk wood, of more ancient growth, is mostly oak.
There are numerous springs of excellent quality, which
afford an ample supply of water. The crops are, barley,
oats, wheat, potatoes, peas, and turnips. The system of
agriculture is improved ; draining has been practised to
a considerable extent, and some progress made in inclos-
ing the farms ; the feuces are mainly stone dykes, and
are kept in good repair, and bone-dust has been exten-
sively introduced as manure. The cattle are usually of
the old Fifeshire breed, crossed occasionally with the
Forfarshire and Teeswater ; but the number is very
limited, and few, if any, sheep are reared. The farm-
buildings are substantial and commodious. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £3027.
The substrata are generally secondary trap, of which
the upper part of the hills is composed, and red sand-
stone in the lower districts ; greenstone is also found
in several places, with agates and other stones. Along
the margin of the river Tay are the debris of an ancient
forest, covered at full tide, with four or five feet of
water ; the appearance is that of peat-moss, and at low
water the stumps of trees, with their roots attached, are
seen resting on a stratum of clay. The nearest market-
towns are, Cupar, Dundee, and Newburgh, to which the
farmers resort for the sale of produce. There are seve-
ral stations in the parish for the salmon-fishery, and
also two for Sperling ; the quantity of fish taken is not
great, but they are of excellent quality. The manufac-
ture of potato-flour is carried on at the farm of East
Flisk, where a mill has been erected for the purpose,
Vol. I.— 433
which is propelled by a steam-engine of two-horse
power. Coal, tiles, slates, and stone are landed on the
heach ; but as there is no pier, the inhabitants derive
little other benefit from the navigation of the river.
The road from Newburgh to Woodhaven, maintained by
statute labour, runs through the parish. Flisk is in the
presbytery of Cupar and synod of Fife, and patronage of
the Earl of Zetland ; the minister's stipend is £151. 11.,
with a manse and glebe. The church, erected in 1790,
near the site of the old church, then taken down, is a
neat plain edifice adapted for a congregation of 150
persons ; it is beautifully situated on the bank of the
river, and about four miles from Glenduckie, the inha-
bitants of which hamlet attend the church of Dunbog,
it being more convenient, for them. The parochial
school affords a good education to the children of the
parish ; the master has a salary of £34, with £10 fees,
and a house and garden.
Near the western extremity of the parish are the
ruins of the ancient castle of Ballinbreich, seated on an
eminence overlooking the river, and surrounded with a
plantation ; it was for many ages the residence of the
earls of Rothes, of whom Andrew, the fourth earl, was
buried in the old church. Being, however, deserted
by that family, the castle was sold, together with the
adjoining lands, and has been suffered to fall into
decay. The only remains are, part of the walls, of red
sandstone, which appear to have inclosed an area 150
feet in length and seventy feet in width, and some of
the ancient timber, of which two remarkably fine ches-
nut-trees have been preserved. Near the castle, and
within the grounds, is a spot called Chapel Hill, said to
have been the site of some religious building, of which
the foundations may with difficulty be traced. There
are also slight remains of another chapel, in Flisk wood,
consisting of low walls; but whether this building or the
ruin near the castle is referred to in the enumeration
of the parishes of Fife, in which this parish is designated
" Flisk cum Capella," is uncertain. Several stone
coffins of rude form, containing urns in which were
burnt bones, were a few years since discovered on the
farms of East Flisk and Belhelvie ; burnt bones were
also found in a cairn on the summit of a mount, on
Fliskmill farm ; and on Fliskmill hill are some stones
called St. Muggin's Seat. Silver half-crowns, shillings,
and sixpences, coined in the reign of Edward III.,
have been also found on the lands of East Flisk. The
Rev. John Wemyss, principal of St. Leonard's College,
St. Andrew's, in 1592 ; and the Rev. John Fleming, D.D.,
author of the Philosophy of Zoology and History of British
Animals, and professor of natural philosophy in King's
College, Aberdeen, in 1S32, were ministers of this
parish.
FLODDA, an island, in the parish of Barra, county
of Inverness; containing 53 inhabitants. It lies near
the island of Helesay, in the sound of Flodda, and
eastward of the Mainland of Barra. Flodda Sound
opens to the south, and ships of large ■ burthen may
ride in it with safety at all seasons.
FLOTTA, in the county of Orkney. — See Walls
and Flotta.
FOCHABERS, a burgh of barony, in the parish of
Bellie, county of Elgin, 7 miles (E. S. E.) from Elgin ;
containing 1135 inhabitants. This place is situated in
the vicinity of Gordon Castle, on rising ground near the
3 K
F O C H
FOD D
confluence of a small rivulet with the Spey, over which
latter is a fine bridge of three arches, having a water-
way of 340 feet. It is a neat village, built on a regular
plan, with a handsome square in the centre, orna-
mented on each side with trees, and streets entering the
square at right angles ; and is governed by a baron-
bailie, appointed by the superior. A village of the
same name formerly stood about a mile northward of
the present, and still nearer to Gordon Castle ; but it
ceased to exist on the formation and rise of the modern
village. Among the most conspicuous buildings are,
the parochial church, and a highly-ornamental epis-
copal chapel, recently built and endowed by the Duchess
of Gordon, on the north side of the village, and consist-
ing of two stories, surmounted with two spires ; the
tipper story is used for public worship, and the ground
floor is occupied as an infant school, and contains apart-
ments for the teacher. There are also a Roman Catho-
lic chapel, and a subscription library. The great road
from Edinburgh to Inverness passes through the vil-
lage ; and annual markets are held, partly for the sale
of horses, but especially for black-cattle, on the third
Wednesday in January, the fourth in March and May,
the second in August, and the fourth in October and
December. In the neighbourhood is a spacious man-
sion for the lessees of a salmon-fishery on the Spey,
with a range of apartments in an extensive court, con-
veniently fitted up, and supplying every facility for the
operations connected with this important branch of
traffic ; the produce, valued at several thousand pounds
a year, is sent to London packed in ice, and employs
regularly, during the season, eight smacks in the con-
veyance.
Gordon Castle, until lately the seat of the dukes of
Gordon, whose title has become extinct, and now a pos-
session of their heir of entail and representative, the
Duke of Richmond, is considered the most magnificent
and princely mansion north of the Frith of Forth. This
edifice was originally a gloomy tower, in the centre of a
morass called the Bog of Gight, and accessible only by
a narrow causeway, and a drawbridge. It is now a vast
structure, of which the exterior measures 5*0 feet in
length ; and the building consists of four lofty stories,
with spacious two-storied wings, and connecting galle-
ries or arcades of similar height. From behind the centre
rises a ponderous square tower of the eleventh century,
nearly ninety feet high, overlooking the stately pile,
which is faced on all sides with freestone, and encircled
by an embattled coping. The castle is approached by
an imposing gateway at the north end of the village,
and entered by a grand vestibule embellished by copies
of the Apollo Belvidere and the Venus de Medici, a bust
of Homer, busts of Aurelius and Faustina, of Csesar
and Caracalla, one of a vestal virgin, and one of Pitt,
each raised on a handsome pedestal of Sienna marble.
At the bottom of the great staircase are busts of Seneca
and Cicero, and of a grand duke of Tuscany, a relative
of the family of Gordon ; and on the first landing-place
is a gigantic wooden head of some ancient divinity of
the sea, with other objects of striking interest. The
state apartments are numerous and splendid, and
superbly furnished : the great dining-room is of the
most just proportions, and contains many fine paintings
and portraits, as do most of the other rooms, including
the library, where are several thousand volumes, various
434
ancient and valuable MSS., geographical and astrono-
mical instruments, and antique curiosities. There are
also a small theatre, and a music-room. Among the
finest pictures may be mentioned those of Abraham
turning off Hagar and her son ; Joseph resisting Poti-
phar's wife ; St. Peter and St. Paul ; Dido and St. Ceci-
lia ; Ulysses and Calypso ; Bacchus and Ariadne ; Venus
and Adonis ; a portrait of the last duke of Gordon ;
and one of the second countess of Huntly, daughter of
James I., and the lady through whom Lord Byron
boasted of having a share of the royal blood of Scotland
in his veins.
The park in which the castle stands is of great
extent, and presents every variety of surface, walks,
drives, meandering streamlets, groves, arbours, and
broad-spreading meadows ; while an almost intermin-
able forest extends over the mountain side in the dis-
tance. Among the trees are majestic rows of elm and
beech, and many of large dimensions, particularly the
limes, planes, the walnut, and horse-chesnut ; and there
are fine plantations of birch, larch, Scotch fir, and other
growing timber in a flourishing state. Before the castle
is a richly-verdant sward, fringed with sweetly-scented
shrubs ; and the gardens around it occupy a space of
twelve acres, and are ornamented by rare plants, and
enlivened by a beautiful lake. To the north of the
mansion is a military station, called the " Roman
camp."
FODDERTY, a parish, in the county of Ross and
Cromarty, 2 miles (W.) from Dingwall; containing,
with the villages of Auchterneed, Keithtown, and Mary-
burgh, the island of Balblair, and part of the quoad
sacra districts of Carnoch and Kinlochluichart, 2437
inhabitants. The name is probably derived from two
words in the Gaelic language, signifying a meadow along
the side of a hill, a description characteristic of the
celebrated valley of Strathpeffer, which comprehends
part of the parish. The ancient history of Fodderty
is very imperfectly known ; but it appears to be closely
connected with that of the famous Mc Kenzies, of whom
Roderick Mc Kenzie was knighted by James VI. ; the
grandson of Roderick, named George, was made secre-
tary of state to Queen Anne, with the dignity of Earl
of Cromarty, and in 169S he obtained an act to annex
all his lands in Ross- shire to the county whence he
derived his title. Fodderty comprehended a large part
of these lands ; and thus it happens that, though actu-
ally situated in Ross, it belongs to the county of Cro-
marty. The length of the parish, from north to south,
is about eleven miles, and it is nine miles in breadth,
from east to west. It is bounded by Dingwall on the
east, by Contin and Kinlochluichart on the west, by
Kincardine and Kiltearn on the north, and by Urray on
the south. The surface partly consists of the valley
already mentioned, encompassed by lofty hills ; and a
rivulet called Peffery runs through it, whence the valley,
nearly six miles long and three-quarters broad, derives its
name. The views in every direction are very fine. The
lofty and massive Ben- Wyvis, 3426 feet high, and partly
in the parish ; Knock-Farril, on which is a strikingly
marked vitrified fort ; the vale of Strathpeffer, with its
venerable castle; the town of Dingwall, the Frith of
Cromarty, and the interesting scenery of Tulloch Castle,
interspersed in different directions with the round tops
of wild and rugged hills, all unite to complete the land-
FO DD
TOGO
scape. Loch Ussie, containing several islands, and en-
compassed with thriving plantations, is also a pleasing
object.
The soil slightly varies, but in general it is found to
be a dark loamy mould, with a stiff clayey subsoil. A
very large portion of the land is in a state of bigh cul-
tivation; about 1000 acres are under fir and larch plan-
tation, and the remainder is hill pasture. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £609*2. The strata differ
considerably, exhibiting gneiss on the higher grounds,
and in the lower parts red sandstone and conglomerate ;
in many places is a slaty rock with black whinstone,
and in others a bituminous schist, mixed with p}rrites.
The noble mansion of Castle-Leod, built in 1616, the
ancient residence of the earls of Cromarty, is of truly
baronial appearance, five stories high, and turreted ; it
stands at the base of a hill beautifully rounded at the
summit, and in the midst of extensive parks adorned
with various kinds of trees, many of them of ancient
growth and gigantic stature. Among these is a ches-
nut, measuring at the bottom of its trunk twenty-four
feet in circumference ; the width of its branches is
ninety feet.
There is a great variety of mineral springs within
the parish, but the most celebrated is the Strathpeffer
spa, which has been brought into great repute within
the last thirty years ; it has two wells, one much
stronger than the other, both impregnated with sul-
phuretted hydrogen gas, and said to be highly efficacious
in nervous and dyspeptic complaints. A considerable
number of respectable houses have been built in the
vicinity of the spa, the fame of which has drawn many
visiters. A large and convenient pump-room was erected,
in 1S19, at an expense of £125, and is regularly sup-
plied with the public papers ; a splendid hotel has been
recently built at Blar-na-ceaun, within about half a mile
of the pump-room, and there is an inn also on the east
side with comfortable accommodations. An hospital,
or infirmary, has been lately formed, through the exer-
tions of J. E. Gordon, Esq., for the poor who resort to
the spa for the benefit of its waters ; it can accommo-
date fifty persons, but is yet unendowed. There is a
penny-post in the parish ; and between the months of
May and October, during the visiting season, a convey-
ance runs twice every day to Dingwall, where it meets
the Inverness coach. On the river Conon is a salmon-
fishery ; and in the small stream of the Peffery, black
trout are frequently taken. The ecclesiastical affairs
are directed by the presbytery of Dingwall and synod
of Ross : the stipend of the minister is £'355, with a
manse, built in 1796, and a glebe and garden of thir-
teen acres ; the patronage belongs to the Hon. Mrs. Hay
Mc Kenzie. The church, a plain but pleasing structure,
built in ISO?, and enlarged in 1S35, accommodates 600
persons with sittings : the service is alternately per-
formed in English and Gaelic. In the village of Mary-
burgh is a church, recently erected, distant from the
parish church about five miles. A parochial school is
maintained, in which the classics are taught, with the
ordinary branches of education ; the master has a salary
of £36, with a house, and £20 fees. Near Fodderty
is Temple-croft, or Croicht-an-Team puil, in which stone
coffins containing skeletons have been recently found :
on the heights of the Hilton estate is a sepulchral cairn,
measuring in circumference 260 feet, and near this spot
435
are the remains of some Druidical temples. There are
two huge stones on cither side of the church, vulgarly
reported to have been thrown at his enemies by the far-
famed Fingal, the hero of Ossian, and to have remained
in their present position. The most striking antiquity,
however, is Castle-Leod, built by Sir Roderick Mc
Kenzie.
FOGO, a parish, in the county of Berwick, 4 miles
(S. by W.) from Dunse ; containing 455 inhabitants, of
whom about 35 are in the village. This place, of which
the name is of uncertain derivation, appears, though un-
connected with any event of historical importance, to
have some claim to antiquity ; and from a confirmatory
charter of Malcolm IV., in 1159, it is clear that the
church of Fogo had been granted previously to that
time to the monastery of Kelso. The parish is five miles
in length, from east to west, and two miles and a half in
average breadth, and comprises about 5000 acres, of
which 4600 are arable, 300 woodland and plantations,
and the remainder meadow and pasture. The surface is
traversed in the north by two parallel ridges of inconsi-
derable height, between which the river Blackadder
flows throughout the whole length of the parish : on the
south are some extensive level tracts. The scenery is
pleasingly varied, and in parts enriched with timber of
stately growth. The Blackadder, which has its source
in some mossy land in the parish of Westruther,
from which circumstance it takes its name, runs in a
direction from east to west, and falls into the White-
adder in the parish of Edrom ; it abounds with eels and
trout of a reddish colour, but salmon are never fouud in
its stream. There is a bridge of one arch on the road
to Dunse, built in 1664, lately repaired, and which
bears the name of the family of Cockburn, of Langton.
The soil on the higher land is exceedingly fertile, con-
sisting principally of a deep black loam ; but in the
lower lands it is thinner, and of inferior quality, resting
on a retentive clay. The crops are, oats, barley, wheat,
and turnips ; the system of agriculture is in an ad-
vanced state, and the four-shift course of husbandry
generally prevalent. Bone-dust and various other kinds
of manure are used in the cultivation of turnips ; the
lands have been in great part thoroughly drained, and
inclosed with hedges of thorn ; the farm-buildings are
substantial and well arranged, and all the more recent
improvements in the construction of agricultural im-
plements have been adopted. Considerable attention
is paid to the rearing of live stock ; the cattle are
partly of the short-horned, and partly of the Highland
breed, and the sheep mostly the Leicestershire. The
plantations are fir, intermixed with forest trees, of which
the chief are, beech, birch, and lime. The rateable
annual value of Fogo is £5851. Caldra House, the
principal mansion in the parish, is now in the occupa-
tion of Capt. Cathcart ; and Charter Hall, a neat summer
seat, built by the late Henry Trotter, Esq., of Morton
Hall, is occasionally visited by the proprietor. Com-
munication with the neighbouring market-towns and
other places is afforded by good roads, of which the
turnpike-road to Berwick, and to the suspension-bridge
communicating with Northumberland, passes through
the parish, and that from Coldstream to Dunse crosses
its western extremity. Fogo is in the presbytery of
Dunse and synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and patron-
age of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is £219. 5. 10.,
3 K2
FORD
FORD
.with a manse, and a glebe valued at £18. 10. per annum.
The church, situated on the banks of the Blaekadder,
is an ancient structure, repaired in 1755, and reseated
in 1S17, and is adapted for a congregation of 200 per-
sons. The parochial school is well attended ; the
master has a salary of £25. 13., with £20 fees, and a
house and garden. Among the remains of antiquity
may be mentioned the old house of Harcarse, situated
on the immediate borders of the parishes of Edrom
and Swinton, and formerly belonging to the family
of Hogg, now extinct ; and at the western extremity
of the parish, at a place named Chesters, are vestiges of
a Roman camp, the stones of which have been nearly
all removed. To the south of the parish have been
discovered, in a marshy tract of land, some remains of
a causeway, probably part of the road leading to the
camp.
FORBES, Aberdeenshire. — See Tullynessle.
FORDEL-SQUARE, a village, in the parish of
Dalgety, district of Dunfermline, county of Fife,
2| miles (N. E.) from Inverkeithing ; containing 157
inhabitants. It lies on the western side of the parish,
and is connected with the Fordel coal-works, which
have been wrought for nearly 250 years, and where
nearly 70,000 tons of coal were until recently annually
raised. In the neighbourhood is a picturesque water-
fall ; and Fordel House, an elegant mansion, surrounded
with extensive plantations, is only a short distance from
the village.
FORDOUN, a parish, in the county of Kincardine,
1 1 miles (W. S. W.) from Stonehaven ; containing, with
the village of Auchinblae, 2342 inhabitants, of whom
34 are in the Kirktown. This place, which is of remote
antiquity, is supposed to have derived its name, signi-
fying in the Gaelic language the "front hill," from the
situation of the church on the brow of the hill of
Fenella, in front of the Grampian range. The parish,
or part of it, had also the appellation of Paldy, from
the dedication of an ancient chapel to St. Palladius,
who was sent from Rome in the fifth century, to oppose
the Pelagian heresy, and who, but upon very doubtful
authority, is said to have fixed his residence here. Of
this chapel, on a pilgrimage to which, to visit the
shrine of the saint, Kenneth III. was murdered by
Dame Fenella, as related in the article on Fettercairn,
some memorials are preserved in the name of a well in
the manse garden, still called the well of St. Palladius.
A sculptured stone, commemorative of the murder,
appears to have been erected in the chapel, but, at the
Reformation, it was removed, and for greater security
concealed under the pulpit of the old parish church,
where, on the rebuilding of that structure, it was
afterwards discovered.
The parish, which is situated on the south side of
the Grampian mountains, is about eight miles in length,
and five and a half in average breadth, comprising an
area of 27,800 acres, of which 11,500 are arable, 21 60
woodland and plantations, and the remainder moorland
pasture and waste. The surface is strikingly varied,
rising from the south-east, by bold undulations, towards
the Grampian range on the north-west, and broken
into deep glens and pleasing vales by numerous streams
descending from the mountains, and by the prominent
hill of Fenella, nearly in the centre of the parish. This
hill, which is one mass of sandstone, is about four miles
436
in length, and a mile and a quarter in breadth, rising
in a gracefully curvilinear form to the height of 1200
feet above the level of the sea, and separated, by the
picturesque vale of Strath-Fenella, from the Grampians,
which in this parish do not attain an elevation of
more than 1500 feet. The rivers are the Luther and
the Bervie. The Luther has its source in the hills
behind Drumtochty, and, flowing to the village of
Auchinblae, where it receives a stream from Glenfar-
quhar, takes a south-easterly direction to Fordoun
House, beyond which it changes its course to the west,
and flows through the parish of Laurencekirk into
the North Esk. The Bervie has its source in the hills
of Glenfarquhar, and, running to the south-east, by
Glenbervie House, winds round the base of the hill of
Knock, and, after a devious course, flows through the
parish of Bervie into the sea. Of the small streams
that descend from the Grampians, the principal are, the
burn of Craigniston, which for some distance separates
the parish from Fettercairn ; and the Ferdun, formed
by two burns which unite at Clattering Briggs, and,
after washing the western base of the hill of Fenella,
fall into the Luther. The Luther and the Bervie both
abound with small trout ; and salmon are occasionally
found in the latter.
The soil in the lower grounds is a tenacious clay, of
moderate fertility ; along the bases of the hills, a deep
rich loam ; and on the higher grounds, a brown
gravelly loam : the crops are, barley, oats, wheat,
beans, peas, potatoes, and turnips, with the various
grasses. The system of husbandry has been greatly
bettered under the auspices of the Fettercairn Club,
which includes also this parish and the parishes of
Laurencekirk and Marykirk. The lands have been
drained and partly inclosed ; the farm-buildings are
substantial and commodious, and the more recent im-
provements in the construction and use of agricultural
implements have been adopted. Much attention is
paid to the management of the dairy-farms, and to
live stock. The cattle are of the pure Angus or Aber-
deen polled breed ; the best are sent to the London
market, where they obtain a high price, and the re-
mainder to Edinburgh and Glasgow. The sheep, which
are reared solely on the hills, are of the black-faced or
mountain breed, with a few of the Cheviot, recently
introduced ; and the horses, reared chiefly for agricul-
ture, approach very nearly to the Clydesdale breed.
The wood is of modern growth, with the exception of
some natural birch and coppice, on the lands of Drum-
tochty Castle ; the plantations consist of larch, and
spruce and Scotch firs, interspersed with oak, ash,
elm, beech, birch, and sycamore. The chief substrata
are, red sandstone, greenstone, in which occasionally
amethysts are imbedded, clay-slate, limestone, and free-
stone, of which there are several quarries. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £12,967.
Drumtochty Castle is a spacious castellated mansion
in the early English style, erected by George Harley
Drummond, Esq., at a cost of £30,000, and seated on
an eminence rising from the bank of the Luther, in a
richly-wooded demesne, tastefully laid out in walks,
commanding much picturesque and finely-varied scenery.
Phesdo, an elegant mansion of Aberdeen granite, in the
Grecian style, with a handsome portico of the Doric
order, built by the late Alexander Crombie, of Aberdeen,
E O R D
F O II D
Esq., is beautifully situated in grounds embellished
with plantations, and near the base of Fenella hill,
commanding a fine view of the vale of Strathmore and
the Grampians. Monboddo, the birthplace of Lord
Monboddo, is an ancient mansion, greatly improved
by the late Mrs. Burnett, his daughter. Fordoun House
is, together with the farm, in the occupation of a
tenant ; as is also Castleton. The Kirktown merely con-
tains the church, manse, and school-house, with a few
cottages and an inn. The village of Kincardine, once
the county town, and residence of the sheriff, who held
his courts here till the reign of James VI., when they
were removed to Stonehaven, has dwindled into an
insignificant hamlet : the ancient cross that stood in
the market-place has been removed, and placed in the
village of Fettercairn. The castle of Kincardine, of
which the ruins are situated on the adjacent lands of
Castleton, was a celebrated palace of several of the
Scottish monarchs, of whom Kenneth III., while here,
was murdered by Dame Fenella ; and in this castle
John Baliol is said to have been residing when he
abdicated the crown in favour of Edward I. of England.
From the ruins, it appears to have been a spacious
quadrangular structure of great solidity, but only the
foundations of some of the walls are now remaining.
The village of Auchinblae, situated to the east of Strath-
Fenella, contains several inns : the inhabitants are
partly employed in the spinning of flax and the weaving
of coarse linen ; and the place, which has a thriving
appearance, has been erected into a burgh of barony,
and is governed by a baron-bailie appointed by the Earl
of Kintore. Fairs are annually held in the parish, of
which the most considerable is Paldy fair, for horses,
sheep, and cattle, which takes place in July, on a moor
near the foot of the Grampians. Another fair for
horses and cattle is also held in July, at Lammas
muir, in the western portion of the parish ; and at
Auchinblae, besides two annual fairs, are weekly mar-
kets for grain and cattle, during the winter. Runners
from the post-offices of Stonehaven and Montrose bring
the letters ; and facility of communication is main-
tained by the turnpike-road from Aberdeen to Edin-
burgh, through Strathmore, and by statute roads and
bridges kept in excellent repair.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Fordoun, which holds
its sittings here, and the synod of Angus and Mearns.
The minister's stipend is £249, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £12 per annum ; patron, the Crown.
The church, erected in 1S29, at a cost of £3000, is a
handsome structure in the later English style of archi-
tecture, with a tower at the west end, ninety-three feet
in height ; the interior is well arranged, and contains
1230 sittings. The burying-ground is inclosed by a
wall of masonry, in which is an elegant gateway. There
is a place of worship for members of the Free Church.
The parochial school, for which an appropriate building
has been erected, is attended by about seventy chil-
dren ; the master has a salary of £35. 12., with a house
and garden, and the fees average £15 per annum. A
parochial library was established in 1S27, which now
contains nearly 700 volumes ; and there is also a small
library belonging to the Sunday school. Alexander
Crombie, Esq., bequeathed £100, Mrs. Bogendollo £50,
and the late Mrs. Burnett, of Monboddo, £50, for the
437
benefit of the poor. Close to Fordoun House are the
remains of a Roman camp, of which the praetorium is
in a tolerably perfect state ; near it have been found
urns containing ashes and half-burnt bones, a gold
ring, and other relics of Roman antiquity. In a secluded
glen not far from Drumtochty, are some remains of a
small friary ; and on the hill above Newlands, and
near Castleton, are Druidical ruins. John of Fordoun,
author of the Scotochronicon, and Dr. Beattie, brother
of the author of The Minstrel, were natives of this place.
FORDYCE, a parish, in the county of Banff; con-
taining, with the villages of Sandend and New Mills,
and the town of Portsoy, 3442 inhabitants, of whom
243 are in the village of Fordyce, 2| miles (W. S. W.)
from Portsoy. The name of this place, which appears
to have undergone no orthographical variation since
the most ancient times, is supposed to be derived from
the two Gaelic words fuar, cold, and dcas, south, which,
from their original appropriation as descriptive of the
southern portion of the parish, have been subsequently
used as an appellation for the whole of it. The lands
once belonged to the family of Sinclair, but afterwards
came into that of Ogilvie, in which they have remained
for about 400 years to the present time. Sir Walter
Ogilvie, in 1455, obtained permission of James II., to
fortify his house of Findlater, situated here ; and the
castle seems to have been regularly occupied till nearly
the end of the reign of James VI., when it was in
the possession of John Gordon, son of the Earl of
Huntly, who had received the castle and estates from
one of the Ogilvie family, who had disinherited his own
son. After much litigation and many severe feuds,
however, it returned to the former possessors, chiefly
through arbitration, in which the queen took a leading
part. During its occupancy by Gordon, it was one
among many places that refused to acknowledge Queen
Mary when she visited the northern districts, in con-
sequence of which she sent a party of 120 soldiers
against it, who were attacked by Gordon at Cullen, and
all of them either slain or routed. The district of
Findlater has given the title of Earl to several of its
proprietors, one of whom united to it that of Seafield ;
and the present Lord Seafield, who now holds the
estates, is grandson to Sir Ludovic Grant, who married
Lady Margaret, eldest daughter of James, fifth earl
of Findlater.
Fordyce, which once comprehended the parishes of
Ordiquhill, Deskford, and Cullen, long since separated,
is bounded on the north by the Moray Frith, and is
about seven or eight miles in length, and from two to
six in breadth, comprising 18,6/0 acres, of which 9306
are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, 5960 waste
or natural pasture, 1500 undivided common, and 1234
under wood. The surface is greatly diversified with
hill and dale, and several lofty elevations give to the
scenery a very bold and decided character. The prin-
cipal of these are the hills of Durn and Fordyce, nearly
in the middle of the parish, which stretch in a form
almost semicircular, from north-east to south-west,
the former rising about 700 feet above the level of the
sea ; and the hill of Knock, near the southern boundary,
on the summit of which is a bed of peat-moss, and
which, attaining an elevation of between 1200 and
1400 feet, serves at a considerable distance as a land-
mark for mariners. The coast, though not precipitous,
FORD
FORF
is marked by a strong rocky outline, broken by nume-
rous caves and several headlands and bays. The
chief points are, the East and West heads, taking their
names from their relative positions to Portsoy, and
Logie head, at the western extremity of the parish;
the bays are named Portsoy and Sandend, the former
possessing a secure and convenient harbour, and the
latter having about half a mile of sandy beach, in which
is situated Redhyth point, where small vessels find
anchorage and shelter. The streams are inconsiderable,
comprising only the burn of B-oyn, which marks the
eastern boundary of the parish ; the burn of Durn,
which joins the sea at Portsoy ; and the burn of
Fordyce, falling into the bay of Sandend.
The soil, which is incumbent on strata of almost
every description, comprehends strong clay and light
and clayey loam ; it is wet and cold in the southern
quarter, but rich and fertile about the coast, producing
all kinds of grain, with potatoes, turnips, hay, and
flax. The cattle are chiefly a cross between the old
Banffshire and the Buchan breeds : their improvement
has been greatly promoted by premiums given by the
Banffshire Farmers' Club and the Highland Society ;
and a decided advantage has been obtained by the in-
troduction of the Teeswater bull. The sheep are the
Cheviots, with a few of the native black-faced ; the
horses are in general of the ordinary kind, with the
exception of those bred from Clydesdale mares, which
are very superior in strength and appearance. Though
the fences and farm-buildings -are still, to a great ex-
tent, in a defective condition, much has been done
within the present century in the way of agricultural
improvement, especially by draining. Upwards of
10,000 yards of ditches, and nearly 20,000 yards of
drains, have been completed on one farm since 1S37,
independently of 1600 of marsh ditches cut in another
part ; bone manure has been introduced, and several
threshing-mills erected. The rateable annual value of
Fordyce is £S712. The parish is of considerable im-
portance in a geological point of view, and is celebrated
for its extensive strata of serpentine rock, of which
there are immense beds, and which, admitting of a very
fine polish, has long been a favourite material, not
only in Britain, but also in many parts of the con-
tinent, for the manufacture of various kinds of orna-
ments. In the palace of Versailles, where it is known
by the name of Scottish marble, it has been employed
in the construction of several chimney-pieces. Among
the numerous geological varieties are, hornblende, sye-
nite, granite, felspar, mica-slate, quartz, and clay-slate ;
also limestone with veins of granite, and small por-
tions of magnetic iron-ore. The plantations are prin-
cipally larch and Scotch fir, with some ash, the last of
which is found in a thriving condition near the old
castle of the Boyn. The seats are, Birkenbog, an old
plain building, inhabited by the tenant who rents the
farm ; and Glassaugh, a neat and spacious modern
mansion, recently much enlarged and improved. The
village of Fordyce was made a burgh of barony in 1499.
About fourteen miles of turnpike-road run through the
parish, branching off in various directions to Banff,
Cullen, Keith, and Huntly ; and there are several good
substantial bridges. Two fairs are held ; one in No-
vember, for cattle and for hiring servants, and the other
in December, for cattle onlv.
438
The parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of
Fordyce and synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage
of the Earl of Seafield. The stipend is £226 ; and
there is a manse, with a glebe of two and a half acres,
valued at £5 per annum, and a croft of five acres, called
the Vicar's Croft, bequeathed in 1595 for the use of the
minister. The church, built in 1804, contains 1050
sittings. The parochial school affords instruction in
Greek, Latin, mathematics, and all the branches of a
useful education ; the salary of the master is £34, and
he has also 10 acres of land, left by Thomas Menzies,
of Durn, and receives about £30 in fees. Walter
Ogilvie, of Redhyth, in 167S, bequeathed land for the
establishment of bursaries at the parochial school and
at King's College, Aberdeen 5 in the former there are
seventeen, extending to five years each. George Smith,
who was born in the village of Fordyce, established nine
bursaries in his native parish, likewise of five years'
duration; they commenced in 1801, and are worth £25
per annum each, appropriated to board, clothing, and
education : he also left £25 a year to the minister for
superintending the youth on the foundation. The Rev.
James Stuart, rector of Georgetown and All Saints, in
South Carolina, left £1200 for a bursary in the school
of Fordyce, for boys bearing the name of Stuart, which
endowment commenced in 1S10 ; and there ,are two
other small bursaries, founded by James Murray. On
the hill of Durn are the remains of an encampment,
supposed to have been thrown up by the Danes ; and
several urns, containing ashes and bones, have been
occasionally dug up in different places. But the chief
relic of antiquity is the old castle of Findlater, situated
on a rock almost surrounded by the sea, and which
appears to have been of considerable strength. The
lower apartments are cut out of the solid rock, and are
strongly arched ; and on the south were formerly a
fosse and drawbridge, beyond which, at the distance of
about one hundred yards, an outwork existed, for
greater security, consisting of a fosse and rampart.
There are several chalybeate springs ; but the most
celebrated is that called " John Legg's Well," which is
much frequented in summer both by natives and
strangers. Sir James Clark, Physician to Her Majesty,
and Dr. John Forbes, physician extraordinary to Prince
Albert, were educated at the parochial school.
FORFAR, a royal burgh,
the county town, a parish,
and the seat of a presbytery,
in the county of Forfar, 70
miles (N. by E.) from Edin-
burgh; containing, with the
villages of Carseburn andLu-
nanhead,9620 inhabitants, of
whom S362 are in the burgh.
This place, in some ancient
documents, is noticed under
the designation of Forfar-
Burgh Seal. Restenneth ; and in others,
Forfar and Restenneth are separately mentioned as dis-
tinct parishes, the union of which, though extremely
probable, has not been proved by any authentic evidence.
In the latter part of the seventh century, a priory was
founded at Restenneth, which became subordinate to the
abbey of Jedburgh, and of which there are still some re-
mains on the west side of the loch of Restenneth. In this
F O R F
FO R F
establishment, Alexander I. deposited the public records
that had been placed by King Fergus in the abbey of
Iona, or Icolmkill, which was difficult of access; and in
1296, Robert, then prior, took the oath of fealty to
Edward I. of England. The priory appears to have
been well endowed, and to have had considerable pos-
sessions in the neighbourhood ; it flourished till about
the year 1652, when the right of patronage of the
church was purchased from the prior by the magis-
trates and council of the burgh. Forfar appears to
have been a royal residence at a very early period.
Malcolm Canmore is said to have held parliaments in
the castle, situated on an eminence to the north of the
town, where he resided with his court ; and his queen,
Margaret, had a palace on a small island in the loch of
Forfar, called the Inch, on which, for many years, the
inhabitants of the burgh were in the habit of celebrating
an annual festival in honour of her memory. In 1307,
Robert Bruce, on his route from Abei'deen to Angus,
assaulted the castle of Forfar, at that time strongly
garrisoned by the English, and, taking it by escalade,
put the whole of the garrison to the sword, and ordered
the fortifications to be levelled with the ground. In
1647, the burgesses opposed the surrender of the person
of Charles I. into the hands of the republican party,
and, through their provost, entered a warm protest
against that measure in parliament. When the city of
Dundee was taken by the army of General Monk, a
detachment of English forces was sent to Forfar, who
plundered the town, and destroyed ail the charters and
public records of the burgh. Towards the close of the
17th century, frequent trials and executions for witch-
craft occurred here, of which the last was in 16S2 : the
place of execution, a small hollow to the north of the
town, still retains the name of the " Witches Howe,"
and the iron bridle that was fastened round the head of
the victims on these occasions is yet preserved.
The town, which is situated on the road from Aber-
deen to Perth, consists of two principal and of several
smaller streets, in which are numerous well-built houses,
many of them of handsome appearance ; and within the
last half century very great improvements have taken
place. The streets are lighted with gas, and the inha-
bitants are supplied with water from wells sunk by
subscription of individuals, aided by grants for the
purpose by the magistrates of the burgh. A subscrip-
tion library is supported ; there are a newsroom, and
a mechanics' reading-room, both containing a good col-
lection of books ; and a horticultural society has been
established. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in the
linen manufacture ; the principal articles are, sheetings,
Osnaburghs, and dowlas, in the weaving of which about
3000 persons are regularly employed in their own
dwellings. The quantity of linen annually woven is
about 14,000,000 yards, and the average value £300,000.
There are ale and beer breweries, and various shops for
the supply of the vicinity with different articles of mer-
chandise. A very considerable increase of general traffic
has taken place since the opening of the railway between
Forfar and Arbroath, which has its terminus at the
north extremity of the town, and which was opened to
the public, for the conveyance of goods and passengers,
on the 3rd of January, 1839 : the line is fifteen miles in
length, with a rise upon the whole distance of about
220 feet, and it was completed at an expense of £140,000.
439
In 1S40, an act was obtained for increasing the capital
stock of the company. An excellent road from Forfar
to Kirriemuir, also, has been constructed, opening a
communication with a large Highland district. The
principal market is on Wednesday ; and there is a
market, well supplied with provisions of all kinds, on
Saturday. Fairs are held on the last Wednesday in
February, the second in April, and the first in May, for
cattle and horses ; on the day after Dunsmuir fair, in
June, for cattle ; on the first Tuesday in July, for
sheep, on the Wednesday following, for cattle, and on
Thursday, for horses : on the first Wednesday in August,
for cattle ; the last Wednesday in September, for horses
and cattle; and the third Wednesday in October and
the first in November, for cattle. These fairs are much
frequented by dealers from the southern counties and
from different parts of England ; and on account of its
position in the very centre of the county, Forfar is re-
markable for the great attendance and amount of busi-
ness transacted at its Wednesday weekly market, which
indeed, from the beginning of the month of November
until the end of that of March, resembles a large fair.
The burgh, by charter of Charles II., bestowed in
the year 1665, is governed by a provost, two bailies, a
treasurer, and a town council of fifteen members. There
are five incorporated companies, the glovers, shoe-
makers, tailors, weavers, and hammermen, the terms
of admission to which vary considerably ; the fee paid
on admission as a burgess is, for a stranger £2, and
for the son of a freeman, the husband of a freeman's
daughter, or an apprentice, £1. The jurisdiction of the
burgh extends over the whole royalty, which is about
two and a half miles in length, and half a mile in
breadth, and also over the liberties, under the charter.
The bailies hold a court for the determination of civil
pleas to any amount, in which they are assisted by an
assessor, and also a criminal court, chiefly for the trial
of petty offences, though by charter their jurisdiction
extends to capital crimes ; but, from the conducting of
causes by written pleas, the expenses of process tend
greatly to diminish the number of suits in the latter.
As the county town, the sessions are regularly held
here, as well as the election of the representative in
parliament. A handsome building has been erected at
an expense of £5000, containing a sheriff's court, with
offices for the sheriff's clerk, and rooms for the juries
and for the records. The town and county hall, situated
in the centre of the town, is a neat edifice, comprising
halls for the transaction of public business, and courts
for holding the sessions ; and in the same building is
the old gaol, now converted into an excellent market-
place, as, from its inadequacy as a gaol, ground was
lately purchased to the north of the town, on which a
more spacious and better arranged prison has been
erected. The burgh, with those of Montrose, Arbroath,
Brechin, and Bervie, returns one member to the impe-
rial parliament : the elective franchise, under the Reform
act, is vested in the resident £10 householders ; the
number of these is 250.
The parish, which is situated on the south side of the
valley of Strathmore, is about six miles in length, from
north to south, and five miles in breadth. The surface,
though generally level, is varied by the two hills of Bal-
mashinar, near the town, and Lower, at its southern ex-
tremity, of which the former commands an extensive
F O R F
F O R F
and richly- diversified prospect : the rivers are the
Lunan and the Venn}', which, though abounding in
trout, are, ia their course through the parish, very in-'
considerable streamlets. There were formerly three
large lakes, Restenneth, Fithie, and the loch of Forfar ;
but. the two first have been drained for marl, and the
last, though still a fine sheet of water, has been much
reduced in extent. The soil, with the exception of a
tract of wet clay in the south, is generally light and
dry, producing excellent crops of oats, barley, and tur-
nips, with various other green crops. The lands are in
a good state of cultivation ; the use of shell-marl found
in the lakes for manure has been almost superseded by
the use of lime, and the system of husbandry has been
greatly advanced. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £12,015. In the south-west, and also in the
eastern parts of the parish, freestone of good quality for
building is extensively wrought. From the quarries
here, has been taken the stone of which most of the
houses in the town, and the steeple of the church, are
built ; and large quantities of flags for pavement, and of
thin sandstone for roofing, are sent by railroad to
Arbroath and Dundee, whence they are shipped to
various parts of the kingdom. The only mansion-
house is that of Lower, built by a former earl of North-
esk, and now the property of his descendants, the family
of Carnegie.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Forfar and synod of
Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend is £167. 17-,
with a manse, a handsome modern building, and a glebe
valued at £20 per annum ; patrons, the Town Council.
The church, originally built in 1*91, and partly rebuilt,
and made more commodious, in 1836, is a plain sub-
stantial edifice, with a steeple erected in 1814, in which
are three old bells, the gift of Mr. Strang, a native of the
town, and a merchant of Stockholm ; the interior con-
tains about 1800 sittings, of which sixty-two are free.
The church of St. James was erected in 1836, at an ex-
pense of £1200, raised by subscription; and a portion
of the parish, comprising an area about a quarter of a
mile long, and of nearly equal breadth, and containing a
population of 2236, was for a short time assigned to it
-as an ecclesiastical district, by authority of the pres-
bytery. It is a neat structure, containing 1 1 34 sittings,
of which 100 are free ; and the stipend of the minister,
derived from seat-rents, is £80 per annum, to be ad-
vanced to £100 when the funds will permit. An epis-
copal chapel was built in 1824 ; it has 3S0 sittings, and
is under the superintendence of the Bishop of Dunkeld.
There are also places of worship for members of the
Free Church and United Secession, and for Indepen-
dents ; and an old house has recently been purchased,
and fitted up as a Roman Catholic chapel, in which
service is occasionally performed. The parochial school
affords instruction to about eighty children ; the master
has a salary of £34, with an allowance of £8. 15. in
lieu of a house and garden, and the fees average £25
per annum. There are likewise three burgh schools,
the master of one of which has a salary of £40 ; the
other masters have each a school-room rent-free, but
are not in receipt of any salary. A considerable income
arises from land purchased with a bequest of Mr. Strang,
in 1650, for distribution among the poor. In the vici-
nity are the remains of two Roman camps, between
440
which a causeway was continued for some way through
this parish ; and nearly at an equal distance from each,
are remains of a Pictish camp of large extent, of which
the rampart and fosse, extending from Loch Forfar to
Loch Restenneth, are said to have been formed by the
Picts under Feredith, to protect their camp from the
Scots under Alpin, prior to the battle of Restenneth.
FORFARSHIRE, a maritime county, in the east of
Scotland, bounded on the north by the counties of Aber-
deen and Kincardine ; on the east, by the German
Ocean ; on the south, by the Frith of Tay ; and on the
west, by Perthshire. It lies between 56° 27' and 57°
(N. Lat.) and 2° 28' and 3° 22' (W. Long.), and is about
38| miles in length, and 37^ in extreme breadth, com-
prising an area of S40 square miles, or 537,600 acres ;
3S,255 houses, of which 36,184 are inhabited; and con-
taining a population of 170,520, of whom 79,375 are
males, and 91,145 females. This district, which was
formerly called Angus, is said to have received that
name from Angus, brother of Kenneth II., to whom it
was granted by that monarch, after his victory over the
Picts ; and it continued for many generations to be
governed by a succession of thanes, of whom Macbeth,
the associate of Macduff, Thane of Fife, in the murder
of Duncan, was the last. The county was subsequently
governed by earls, of whom Gilchrist, the first earl,
flourished in the reign of Malcolm III., and was suc-
ceeded by his son, the second earl, who attended David I.
at the battle of the Standard, in 1138. The earldom
was, by Robert II., conferred on the Douglas family ;
and at present, the shire gives the inferior title of Earl
to the Duke of Hamilton. Prior to the Reformation,
the county was included in the diocese of Brechin ; it is
now in the synod of Angus and Mearns, and comprises
several presbyteries, and about fifty-five parishes. For
civil purposes it is divided into the districts of Forfar
and Dundee, in each of which towns is a resident she-
riff-substitute ; and it contains the royal burghs of
Forfar, which is the county town, Dundee, Arbroath,
Montrose, and Brechin, and the market-towns of Kir-
riemuir and Glammis, with several smaller towns and
villages. Under the act of the 2nd of William IV.,
the county returns one member to the imperial par-
liament.
The surface is boldly varied. Towards the north
it forms part of the Grampian range, here called the
Binchennin hills, of which Catlavv, the highest, has an
elevation of 2264 feet above the level of the sea : this
portion of the county, known as the Braes of Angus,
is a wild pastoral district, though less bold and rugged
than others in the country. Nearly parallel with these
heights are the Sidlaw hills, supposed to be a continua-
tion of the Ochil range, and of less height than the
Binchennin, few of them attaining more than 1400 feet
above the sea. Between the two ridges is the beautiful
and fertile valley of Strathmore, called here the Howe of
Angus, extending for nearly thirty-three miles in length,
and varying from six to eight miles in breadth, diver-
sified with gentle eminences, fruitful fields, pleasing vil-
lages, and handsome seats, surrounded with flourishing
plantations. The district between the Sidlaw hills and the
coast is a level tract of great fertility, from three to eight
miles in breadth, and in the highest state of cultivation.
The principal valleys are, Glenisla, Glenprosen, Glenesk,
Lethnot, and Clova, all of which are watered by streams
FO 11 F
FO R G
descending from the mountains. The chief rivers are
the North and South Esk, which have their sources on
the northern confines of the county. The former, issu-
ing from Lochlee, receives the waters of the Unich,
which in its course forms numerous picturesque cas-
cades ; it then flows through the vale of Glenesk,
between banks crowned with trees of birch, into the
county of Kincardine, and falls into the sea about three
miles to the north of Montrose : its tributaries are, the Lu-
ther, the Cruick, the West Water, the Tarf, and the Mark.
The South Esk has its rise near that of the North Esk,
and, running through the centre of the county, receives
the Noran, the Lemno, the Carity, and the Prosen,
and joins the sea at Montrose. The river Isla rises to
the west of the sources of the Esks, and, after being fed
by the waters of the Meigle, the Dean, the Carbet, and
the burn of Glammis, flows westward into the Tay at
Kinclaven. The Dighty and Lunan are of inferior cha-
racter, the former issues from some small lakes in the
parish of Lundie, and runs into the river Tay to the
east of Broughty-Ferry ; and the latter, having its source
in the lakes of Rescobie and Balgives, flows into the
sea at Lunan bay. Most of the rivers abound with
trout and salmon, and the Lunan with eels. There are
also numerous lakes in the county, but few of them are
more than a mile in circumference ; the principal are,
Lochlee, Loch Brandy, Loch Forfar, and the Lochs
Rescobie and Balgives.
About three-fifths of the land are under cultivation ;
20,000 acres are woodland and plantations, and the
remainder mountain pasture and waste ; the soil on the
hills is heathy moor, but in the valleys rich and fertile.
The lands have been greatly benefited by draining, and
abundant crops of every kind are raised : wheat, which
formerly was very little cultivated, is now grown in
large quantities, and of excellent quality; the various
improvements in husbandry have been generally adopted,
and the system of agriculture is in a very advanced
state. Considerable attention is paid to live stock ;
numbers of sheep of various breeds are pastured on the
Grampian and Sidlaw hills, and on the former is reared
a small breed of horses called Garrons. The plantations
consist of oak, beech, birch, and other trees, which have
nearly superseded the larch ; and the improvement of
the soil has adapted it to the growth of timber of all
kinds. The principal substrata are, limestone, freestone,
and sandstone of good quality for flags ; the limestone
is extensively wrought in several places, but its use for
manure has in some degree been diminished by the
introduction of bone-dust, of which great quantities are
prepared at Arbroath and Dundee, and shell-marl is
found in the lakes, for the procuring of which some of
them have been drained. Lead-ore was formerly obtained
in the upper part of the parish of Lochlee, and copper-ore
has been found in the Sidlaw range. The rateable
annual value of Forfarshire is £479,268. The seats are,
Glammis Castle, Cortachie and Airlie Castles, Camper-
down House, Lindertis, Isla Bank, Gray, Careston, Bal-
namoon, Brechin Castle, Panmure House, Kinnaird,
Dun, Rossie, Ethie, Guthrie, Dunnichen, Isla, Craigo,
Langley Park, and various others. The principal manu-
factures are, the weaving of linen and the coarser fabrics,
as huckaback, canvass, dowlas, sheeting, and sacking, of
which great quantities are exported ; the manufacture
of fine coloured thread ; and the bleaching of linen, for
Vol. I.— 441
which there are extensive grounds on the banks of the
several streams. Numerous mills for the spinning of
flax are in operation, driven by water and steam :
there are large tanneries, breweries, distilleries, and
other works ; and ship-building is pursued at the ports
of Dundee, Arbroath, and Montrose. There are valu-
able fisheries along the coast, and salmon-fisheries in
the Frith of Tay. Facility of communication is afforded
by good roads in various directions, and by railways,
of which the Arbroath and Forfar railway was opened
in 1839, and the Dundee and Arbroath railway, nearly
one continued level along the coast, in 1840. There are
some remains of the cathedral of Brechin, and near
them a round tower supposed to be of Pictish origin ;
the county also contains the ruins of numerous ancient
castles, of the abbey of Arbroath and similar religious
establishments, tumuli, cairns, Druidical altars, and
various other remains of antiquity, which are described
in the articles on the parishes.
FORGAN, a parish, in the district of St. Andrew's,
county of Fife, 9 miles (N. E. by E.) from Cupar; con-
taining, with the villages of East and West Newport, and
Woodhaven, 1219 inhabitants. This place is supposed
to have derived its name, signifying in the Saxon lan-
guage "afore-ground," from the elevated and conspi-
cuous situation which it occupies on the bank of the
river Tay. For many generations it was the property
of the Nairnes, who held distinguished offices in the
state, and one of whom was elevated to the peerage
of Scotland in the time of Charles I. The estate of
St. Fort, with other lands in the parish belonging to
that ancient family, was sold at the beginning of the
last century ; but the title, which had become forfeited
during the rebellion of 1745, was restored in the reign
of George IV. The St. Fort estate is now in the hands
of Henry Stewart, Esq. ; and the only portion of the
original possessions which is still the property of the
Nairne -family, is the small estate of Morton. The
parish is six miles in length and above two in breadth;
it is bounded on the north by the river Tay, and com-
prises 5000 acres, of which 4000 are arable and in pro-
fitable cultivation, 600 pasture and meadow, and 400
woodland and plantations. The surface is in some
parts pleasingly undulated, and in others agreeably
diversified with level plains : of the rising grounds the
most elevated are the eminences of St. Fort and New-
ton, which are about 300 feet above the level of the sea.
The scenery is richly varied, and from the higher lands
are fine views over the river, which skirts the parish for
nearly four miles ; the shore is bold and rocky, and
indented with several bays, of which the chief are,
Woodhaven and Newport, where convenient harbours
have been constructed, and Wormit bay, which bounds
the western extremity of the parish.
The soil is generally fertile, consisting of black loam
interspersed with clayey mould, and in some parts of a
light gravelly kind, in which are found occasionally
large boulders of trapstone. The system of agriculture
is in a very advanced condition ; the rotation plan of
husbandry is practised, and every improvement in the
management of the lands is speedily adopted. The
crops are, barley, oats, wheat, potatoes, and turnips,
which are usually favourable and abundant ; and the
surplus produce of grain finds a ready sale in the mar-
kets of St. Andrew's, Cupar, and Dundee. The cattle
F O R G
F O R G
are principally of the Fifeshire breed, with a slight mix-
ture of the Angus, Ayrshire, and Teeswater, which last,
however, are by no means suited to the soil ; the sheep
.are of the Cheviot and Leicestershire breeds. The
plantations have been lately much extended, especially
on the lands of St. Fort and Tayfield ; they consist
chiefly of fir, though the soil is well adapted for oak,
ash, chesnut, and beech : there are few trees of remark-
able growth, except some yew-trees at Kirkton, which
are unrivalled specimens of the kind. The farm-houses
and offices are mostly superior ; and several of them,
of more recent erection, are handsome and exceedingly
convenient. Considerable progress has been made in
inclosing the lands, but much yet remains to be done in
this respect ; the fences are principally of stone, with
a few of hedges, and are generally well kept. The
substrata are, sandstone, whinstone, and greenstone,
which last is extensively quarried for building and
for other purposes : there is neither freestone nor lime-
stone in the parish, but lime for agricultural uses is
brought by sea from various places, and freestone from
the quarries in Angus. The greenstone is fine grained,
compact, and of deep colour ; and on the banks of the
river are rocks of amygdaloidal greenstone, in which
are found metals, and quartz resembling agate. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £7914.
St. Fort, the residence of Mr. Stewart, is a spacious
and handsome mansion in the Elizabethan style of
architecture, recently erected, and pleasantly situated
in a demesne enriched with flourishing plantations.
Tayfield is also a handsome mansion, lately enlarged
and embellished, and beautifully seated on the bank of
the Tay, of which it commands an extensive view, with
the varied and romantic scenery of the adjacent lands,
thickly interspersed with pleasing cottages. A salmon-
fishery is still carried on; but since the prohibition of
stake-nets, it is neither so abundant nor so profitable as
formerly, and at present scarcely affords to the pro-
prietor a rental of £ 1 50 per annum : the fish, which
are of very superior flavour, and in great demand, are
sent to Dundee, where they are packed in ice and for-
warded by steam-boats to London. A very large shoal
of herrings was formerly found in the Tay, near New-
port ; but none have appeared within the last fifty years.
The weaving of linen is carried on upon a limited scale,
affording employment to about twenty or thirty persons,
who work at their own homes for the manufacturers
of Dundee. Facility of intercourse with the neighbouring
market-towns is afforded by excellent roads, of which
the principal road from the north-eastern part of
the country to Edinburgh extends for nearly three miles
through the parish, passing by the ferry at Newport,
from which place communication with Dundee is main-
tained by steam-boats, which ply hourly, and have alto-
gether superseded the sailing- packets formerly in use.
A ferry from Woodhaven to Dundee was also once kept
up ; but, being attended with great inconvenience, an
act of parliament was obtained a few years since for its
discontinuance, and for the establishment of that of
Newport as the only ferry. The parish is in the presby-
tery of St. Andrew's and synod of Fife, and patronage
of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is £230. 19. 8., with
a manse, and a glebe of about nine acres. The old church,
situated in a pleasing and sequestered spot, at the south-
ern extremity of the parish, formerly belonged to the
442
priory of St. Andrew's, and is said to have been built on
that site for the accommodation of a family residing in
the neighbouring mansion-house of Kirkton, and who
contributed largely towards the expense of its erection.
This edifice has been suffered to go to ruin, as, from
the inconvenience of its position for the generality of
the parishioners, a new church was erected in 1S41 in a
more central part of the parish. There is a place of
worship near Newport for a congregation of Indepen-
dents. The parochial school affords instruction to about
120 children ; the master has a salary of £34, with the
fees, and a good dwelling-house and large garden : an
excellent school-house was recently erected in a conve-
nient situation, upon the completion of which the num-
ber of scholars considerably increased. There are
numerous cairns and tumuli, though none of them
have been fully explored ; and in forming the road to
Newport, several urns of rude workmanship were dis-
covered.
FORGANDENNY, a parish, partly in the county of
Kinross, but chiefly in that of Perth, 3§ miles (W.) from
Bridge of Earn ; containing 796 inhabitants, of whom,
66 are in the village. This parish is about ten miles in
length, and two in average breadth, and comprises
12,800 acres, of which 2000 have never been cultivated.
It is divided into the upper and lower districts ; the
former comprehends a part of the Ochils, covering fully
three-fourths of the surface of the parish ; and the
latter, stretching from the foot of these hills, on the
south, to the river Earn, on the north, consists of a well-
cultivated tract, somewhat similar to the Carse of
Gowrie. The scenery is good, on account of the beau-
tiful variations of the surface ; the land gradually rises
from the river southward, and the acclivities of the
Ochils by degrees attain the height of 1000 feet above
the level of the sea. Considerable beauty is also con-
ferred on the scenery by the course of the picturesque
Earn, which is well stocked with salmon, sea-trout, and
other varieties, with whiting, pike, and eels ; and be-
sides this river, the May, a fine mountain stream rising
in Auchterarder, enters the parish at its south-western
extremity, and flows northward in the direction of
the Earn : it contains a large supply of fine trout.
The higher district is cold, its soil light, and though
it bears good crops of other grain, wheat is never sown
here ; but on the lower grounds all kinds of white and
green crops are produced of excellent quality, the soil
being rich and strong. Much of the hilly waste has
been recently laid down in excellent sheep pastures :
some of the highest grounds have been made to yield
fine crops of turnips, and have been inclosed with wire
fences ; and furrow-draining has been much practised
in the lower parts of the parish, where, also, the farm-
buildings are almost entirely constructed after an
improved method. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £5879, of which £340 are for the Kinross-
shire portion. Trap rocks constitute nearly the whole
of the substrata ; but they are so soft and friable as to
be almost useless, even for the building of stone fences,
or any other purpose except the repair of roads. The
old red sandstone lies under this rock, though at too
great a depth to admit of quarrying ; in the upper dis-
trict are to be seen beautiful specimens of conglomerate,
and numerous blue and purple pebbles appear in the
decomposed trap. A thin vein of limestone exists on
FORG
FORG
the estate of Dambuils, but on account of its sandy
character, and the distance of coal, it is not wrought :
copper is said to have been formerly obtained in the
wood of Condie, though no traces of it are now visible.
The natural wood covers about forty acres, and 400
are in plantations, comprising the trees usually grown
in the country.
The mansion of Freeland, belonging to Lord Ruthven,
is a modern residence, having been remodelled about
1S34 ; and that of Condie, an ancient structure, has
received some recent additions : the other mansions are
Rossie and Torrance, the former erected about eighty
years since, and the latter about fifty. The population
are entirely agricultural : besides the village of Forgan-
denny, there is a small hamlet in the Ochils, called Path-
Struie, or the Path of Condie. The road from Stirling
to Bridge of Earn passes through the former village,
and affords facility for the conveyance of the produce,
which is disposed of at Perth, Newburgh, in Fifeshire,
and sometimes at Kinross. The parish is in the pres-
bytery of Perth and synod of Perth and Stirling, and
in the patronage of the Crown : the minister's stipend
is £200, with a manse, and a glebe of six acres, valued
at £15 per annum. The church, a plain edifice of con-
siderable antiquity, was formerly one of the eleven
prebendal churches of Dunkeld cathedral ; it has lately
undergone repair, and accommodates 410 persons.
There are places of worship for members of the Free
Church and the United Secession. The parochial
school, situated in the village of Forgandenny, affords
instruction in the usual branches ; the master has a
salary of £34, with a house and garden, and £10 fees.
There is also a school at the Path of Condie, instituted
by an act of the presbytery of Perth, dated 1660, and
confirmed by the privy council in 1663, empowering the
heritors to appropriate the vacant stipend of 1659 to
its endowment ; the money was placed at interest for
the payment of the teacher, and was augmented by the
Rev. Mr. Willison, a late incumbent, who made a
bequest of a small field, producing £7. 10. annually.
A library of religious books, and one of miscellaneous
works, are attached to the parochial school. On the
north, side of the Ochils is a hill on which formerly
stood an important fortification, supposed by some to
have been of the vitrified class, but considered by most
as Danish. Its boundary line, once formed by a circular
stone wall, circumscribes an area 170 yards in diameter ;
and the hill, called Castle-Law, commands most extensive
prospects, embracing the mouth of the Tay and the
German Ocean, on the east ; Strathearn, to the Gram-
pian mountains, on the west ; a large part of the
counties of Perth and Angus, on the north and north-
east ; and the Lomond hills, on the south.
FORGLEN, a parish, in the county of Banff,
1 mile (w. by N.) from Turriff, on the road to Banff ;
containing 771 inhabitants. This place is called also
Teunan, from St. Eunon, to whom a chapel, of which
there are still some vestiges remaining, is said to have
been dedicated. It is bounded on the south and east
by the river Doveran, which has its source in the
mountains of Aberdeenshire, and, after receiving in its
course through the parish numerous streams from the
high grounds, falls into the Moray Frith at Banff. The
parish is five and a half miles in length, from south-
east to north-west, and about four miles in breadth,
443
and contains 7234 acres, of which 3617 are in a state
of profitable cultivation, 1433 in plantations, 1055 waste
land and pasture, and about 1130 capable of being re-
claimed and cultivated at a moderate expense. The
surface is pleasingly undulated, and the soil, though
light, is fertile ; the system of agriculture is improved ;
the principal crops are barley and oats, and wheat has
recently been raised, but not in sufficient quantities to
remunerate the grower. Considerable attention is paid
to the rearing of live stock ; the cattle are of the
Aberdeenshire and Buchan breeds, with some of the
Teesvvater, Dunrobin, and Galloway ; the sheep are
generally of the Highland breed, which has been bene-
fited by the introduction of the Cheviot, Merino, and
Leicestershire kinds. Much progress has been made
in inclosing the lands, but the chief fences are of stone,
and the farm-buildings are indifferent. There are quar-
ries of clay -slate in several parts, worked for various
purposes. The salmon-fishery on the Doveran was for-
merly extensive and profitable ; but it has greatly
diminished within the last few years, and the annual
rental for an extent of three miles of the river is at
present not more, than £5. The rateable annual value
of Forglen is £3210. Over the several rivulets that
intersect the parish are bridges in good repair ; and
across the Doveran is a substantial bridge of red sand-
stone, erected in 1826, at an expense of £2503, and
connecting this parish with the post-town of Turriff.
Peat and wood are the principal fuel, but coal is
brought from Banff. There is a parochial library,
containing a valuable collection of books on religious
and general subjects ; and a savings' bank has been
established, or rather revived, under the auspices of the
minister.
The parish is in the presbytery of Turriff and synod
of Aberdeen, and patronage of Sir R. Abercromby ; the
stipend is £175. 5. 10., with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £14 per annum. The church, erected in
1806, and situated on the south-eastern boundary of
the parish, is in good repair, and will accommodate a
congregation of from 400 to 500 persons. The mem-
bers of the Free Church have a place of worship. The
parochial school is well attended ; the salary of the
master is £34, with £30 fees, and a house and garden ;
also the interest of £100 bequeathed by the Rev. George
Bruce, minister of Dunbar, in 1*93, and a portion of
the Dick bequest, producing about £30 per annum.
There is likewise a female school, in which children are
taught to sew ; the building was erected by subscrip-
tion. The poor of the parish are eligible to admission
into the Aberdeen infirmary, for which collections are
made annually at the church, as also for the Assembly's
India Mission, and for the schools in the Highlands
and islands. From some ancient charters preserved in
the family of Forglen, it appears that the lands of this
parish and the patronage of the church formerly be-
longed to the abbey of Aberbrothock ; and, as already
stated, there are still remains of an old religious house,
by tradition assigned to St. Eunon. At a short dis-
tance from the church are two barrows, which have not
been opened ; and in constructing a road in 1827, an
urn containing ashes was found. A silver coin of the
size of a crown piece, with the date 1670, was lately
discovered in the wall of an old house ; it seems to
have been current in the electorate of Cologne. The
3 L 2
FORG
FORR
former house of Forglen, supposed to have heen origi-
nally built about the year 1440, had over the entrance
the arms of Scotland, sculptured in stone, with various
inscriptions ; the present mansion, very lately erected,
is a spacious edifice, beautifully situated, and surrounded
with fine old timber.
FORGUE, a parish, in the district of Strathbogie,
county of Aberdeen, 65 miles (N. E. by E.) from Huntly ;
containing 2489 inhabitants. The name of this place
was originally written Forrig, and is supposed to be
derived from the Gaelic language. The parish is bounded
on the north by the river Doveran, which separates it
from Rothiemay, in Banffshire, and on the south by the
Urie; it measures between nine and ten miles in length,
and about six miles and a half at its greatest breadth,
from east to west, comprising 9000 or 10,000 acres mostly
under tillage, and a considerable extent of plantations,
moor, and waste. The surface is diversified with knolls
and acclivities, straths and holms ; and the scenery is
consequently picturesque and interesting, except in the
direction of the Foudland hills, which are in the southern
quarter, and, from their barren and dreary aspect, being
covered with stunted heath, impress upon that part
of the parish a bleak and uninviting appearance. The
Foreman, a prominent hill of conical form, with its sides
well wooded, rises in the northern district, near the
Doveran, to the height of 1000 feet, and commands
from its summit extensive and varied prospects : a path
passed by Queen Mary, when she travelled over this
elevation to Rothiemay House, still goes by the name
of the Queen's road. Rivulets, many of which abound
with trout, flow in every direction, and, after enlivening
and beautifying the lands, fall into the larger streams.
The soil comprehends sand, gravel, loam, clay, and
moss, and the ground therefore differs very much in
quality ; all kinds of grain and green crops are raised,
and the rotation system is practised, with which most
other agricultural improvements have been introduced.
Particular attention has also been shown in the rearing
of cattle, of which crosses between the pure Aberdeen-
shire and the short-horned have proved very successful.
Many of the farms are neatly fenced, and all well culti-
vated ; and the comparatively inland situation of the
parish, it being fourteen miles from the sea, with the
■well laid-out grounds in tillage, and the ornamental
and tastefully-arranged plantations, renders the appear-
ance of the district particularly agreeable. The rocks
consist of the common stone found in most of the
neighbouring parishes, and limestone, the latter of
which, some time since, was extensively quarried. The
rateable annual value of Forgue is £8540.
The parish contains the mansions of Cobairdy, Haddo,
Corse, Drumblair, Templeland, Auchaber, and Boynes-
Mill, most of them well built ; but the mansion of Fren-
draught, the ancient seat of the Crichton family, is,
in point of situation and scenery, the most distin-
guished residence. There are six mills, and at Glen-
dronach is a distillery. The turnpike-road from Huntly
to Banff, and another from Huntly to Aberdeen, pass
through the parish ; the chief communication for trade is
with Banff, Portsoy, Macduff, Inverury, and Huntly, and
Sunderland coal is occasionally imported for fuel. Fairs
are held for the sale of cattle and sheep, and for general
traffic, at Hawkhall, on the third Tuesday in April, the
last Thursday in May, and the third Tuesday in Sep-
444
tember, all O. S. Forgue is in the presbytery of Turriff
and synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of Alex-
ander Morison, Esq., of Bognie ; the minister's stipend
is £191, with an excellent manse, and a glebe of about
12 acres, valued at £18 per annum. The church, situ-
ated upon a gentle eminence, is a neat, commodious,
and substantial edifice, built in 1819, and containing
900 sittings, which are all free. The members of the
Free Church have a place of worship ; there is a small
episcopal chapel, and about seven miles from the
church is a preaching station, belonging to Seceders, but
now deserted. The parochial school affords instruction
in Latin and mathematics, besides all the elementary
branches ; the master has a salary of £34, a house, a
portion of the Dick bequest, and £20 fees. There is a
savings' bank ; and the poor enjoy the benefit of a
charitable bequest of £20 per annum. The antiquities
comprise the remains of several Druidical temples ;
vestiges of a Roman redoubt, as is supposed ; and the
ruins of the ancient castle of Frendraught, at the con-
flagration of the tower of which, in 1630, Viscount
Aboyne, eldest son of the Marquess of Huntly, and
four others, perished. The Admirable Crichton, who
flourished about the middle of the sixteenth century, is
said to have been born at Frendraught, the principal
seat of the family, and from which they derived the title
of Viscount.
FORRES, a royal burgh
x/fi^fp-^si. '■'•■•''■ " ■--■ a[)d parish, in the county of
M^ifS^^^^^. Elgin, 12 miles (W. by S.)
from Elgin; containing 3711
inhabitants, of whom 2844
are in the burgh. This place,
of which the name, in the
Gaelic language, is descrip-
tive of its situation on the
river and bay of Findhorn,
has by some historians been
identified with the Varis of
Ptolemy, and is celebrated
for its ancient castle, in which Duffus, King of Scotland,
was treacherously murdered by the governor, in 966.
A battle is said to have taken place here about the com-
mencement of the eleventh century, between a party of
Danish invaders and Malcolm II. : it terminated in a
treat}', in commemoration of which an obelisk was raised,
called Sweno's Stone, elaborately sculptured with devices,
and which is still remaining in a very perfect state. Not
long afterwards, the forces of Duncan, King of Scotland,
were encamped on a moor in the vicinity of the town ;
and on his way to meet that monarch, Macbeth, accom-
panied by Banquo, was met on an adjoining waste by
the weird sisters, as described by Shakspeare in his
tragedy of Macbeth.
The town, which is situated on a moderately elevated
ridge, consists partly of one long street called the High-
street, from which several smaller streets diverge on
both sides ; and is intersected throughout its whole
length by the road from Elgin to Nairn. The streets
are well paved, and lighted with gas ; and the inhabit-
ants are amply supplied with water. A public library
is supported by subscription, and has a good collection
of volumes ; there is also a newsroom, well furnished
with daily journals and periodical publications ; and a
newspaper called "The Forres Gazette," is published on
Burgh Seal.
F O R R
FORR
the first Wednesday in every month. A masonic lodge
has been for some time established, for which an elegant
building has been erected from a design by Mr. Simp-
son, of Aberdeen, containing a handsome ball-room, a
supper-room, and apartments for the meetings of the
brethren. A horticultural society under the patronage
of the Earl of Moray holds annual meetings in June
and September, when exhibitions of flowers, fruits, and
vegetables attract numbers of visiters from all parts.
The environs abound with pleasingly-diversified scenery ;
and on the highest of the richly-wooded Cloven hills,
near the eastern extremity of the town, a lofty octa-
gonal tower of three stages, crowned with an embattled
parapet, was erected in 1S06, by public subscription, to
the memory of Lord Nelson. No manufactures are
carried on here, nor any trade except such as is neces-
sary for the supply of the inhabitants of the town and
neighbourhood : there are numerous handsome shops,
amply supplied with merchandise of every kind. In the
immediate vicinity are a brewery and a distillery ; and
in a powerful saw-mill for timber, great quantities of
hexagonal blocks for wood-pavement have recently been
prepared for the London market, and shipped from the
port of Findhorn, about five miles distant from the town.
The older records of the corporation are lost ; but
there is evidence of the inhabitants having obtained the
privileges of a royal burgh by charter of William the
Lion or Alexander II., which was renewed by James
IV. The government, under this charter, is vested in
a provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and
eleven councillors, who are chosen under the provisions
of the Municipal Reform act. There are no incorpo-
rated trades ; and the necessity for becoming a member
of the guildry, in order to qualify as a burgess, and for
which the entrance fee had risen successively from
£2. 10. to £13. 10., is no longer enforced. The ma-
gistrates exercise jurisdiction in civil causes to any
amount, and in criminal matters for petty offences and
breaches of the peace. The town-hall, erected in 1839,
on the site of the ancient tolbooth, in the centre of the
High-street, is a handsome structure in the later English
style, with a square tower, above which rises an octa-
gonal turret, surmounted with a dome. The building
contains a spacious hall for holding the courts, with
apartments for the sheriff and justices, a council-cham-
ber, a record room, offices for the town-clerk, and ac-
commodations for the post-office. The old gaol, attached
to the tolbooth, was removed on the erection of the pre-
sent town-hall ; and a small prison, containing two or
three cells for the temporary confinement of criminals,
has been recently built. The burgh is associated with
the burghs of Fortrose, Inverness, and Nairn, in return-
ing a member to the imperial parliament ; the number
of qualified voters is 156. The market, which is amply
supplied with grain, is on Tuesday ; and markets for
butchers' meat and fish are held daily. Fairs for cattle
and horses occur on the first Wednesdays in January
and July, on the third Wednesdays in February, April,
May, and November, on the fourth Wednesdays in
August and September ; and for hiring servants, on the
Saturday before the 22nd of November. The post-office
has a good delivery ; and facility of communication is
afforded by the high road from Elgin to Nairn; by a
turnpike-road to the sea-port village of Findhorn, at
the mouth of Findhorn bay, where the London and
445
Leith steamers call regularly ; by good district roads in
various directions; and by an elegant chain-bridge over
the river Findhorn, constructed at an expense of £"000,
in 1S31, to replace the former bridge of stone, which
had been destroyed by a flood in 1829.
The parish, which is bounded on the north by the
bay of Findhorn, and on the west by the river of that
name, is about four miles in length, and from one to
three miles in breadth, comprising an area of 5200 acres,
of which 3300 are arable, 1200 woodland and planta-
tions, and the remainder moorland pasture and waste.
The surface towards the north-west is a perfect plain,
only a trifling height above the level of the sea ; in the
central portion, it is diversified with gentle acclivities,
terminating in conical hills of moderate height ; on the
south-east, the land becomes more elevated. The river
Findhorn has its source in the mountains of Inverness,
and, after a course of considerable length, enters this
parish, and flowing northward, falls into the bay of
Findhorn : the only other stream is the burn of Forres,
which rises in the adjoining parish of Rafford, and, run-
ning by the town, near which it receives a small tribu-
tary, also joins the bay. On the Findhorn is a lucrative
salmon-fishery, belonging to the Messrs. Forbes, of Aber-
deen, and valued at £500 per annum ; it was greatly
injured by the flood in 1S29, but has lately very much
improved. The soil along the margin of the bay and
the banks of the river is a rich deep loam, with a slight
admixture of clay ; in the central parts of the parish,
a light sand which, under good management, is richly
fertile ; and in the higher grounds, a retentive clay,
alternated with sand and moss. The crops are, wheat,
barley, oats, potatoes, and turnips ; and considerable
portions of the land are cultivated as gardens, in which
flowers and fruits of every kind are raised with great
success. The system of husbandry is in a highly im-
proved state, and some of the waste has been made to
yield luxuriant crops of grain ; the farm-houses are
substantially built of stone, roofed with slate, and gene-
rally well arranged, and on most of the farms are
threshing-mills, of which one is driven by steam. The
cattle are not confined to any particular breed, nor are
the sheep, and many of the farmers change their live
stock annually : particular attention is paid to the
management of the dairy-farms, for the produce of
which there is a large demand. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £S4S1. The plantations consist
of oak, ash, elm, plane, and beech, interspersed with
larch and Scotch fir, of which there are some fine speci-
mens on the lands of various proprietors, particularly
a stately avenue of ash-trees on the road to Forres from
the west. The chief substrata are sandstone and lime-
stone, the latter of which is quarried on the farm of
Mundole, where kilns have been erected for burning it
into manure. Sanquhar House is a handsome mansion
situated on an eminence, about a mile to the south of
the town, in a richty-wooded demesne enlivened by the
windings of the burn of Forres : Invererne, a mile north
of the town, is also a handsome modern residence, sur-
rounded by thriving plantations. Forres House, a spa-
cious mansion, is at present in the occupation of a
tenant : Drumduan is an elegant villa to the east of
Forres, commanding an extensive view of the surround-
ing country.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
FORT
FORT
dence of the presbytery of Forres, of which this place is
the seat, and of the synod of Moray. The minister's
stipend is £274, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£25 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Moray. The
church, a plain structure, built in 1775, and repaired in
1839, is lighted with gas, and contains 1000 sittings.
There are places of worship for the Free Church, United
Secession, and Independents, and an episcopal chapel.
The parochial and burgh schools, which are consolidated
under the patronage of the corporation, and held in the
buildings of Anderson's academy, are conducted by three
masters, to whom collectively are paid salaries amounting
to £120 per annum. The academy, for which a handsome
building m the Grecian style of architecture was erected
in the High-street, was founded in 1S24, and endowed
with property producing £130 per annum, by the late
Jonathan Anderson, Esq., of Glasgow, for the education
of children of the parishes of Forres, Rafford, and Kin-
loss. Of the ancient castle of Forres, which, after the
murder of Duffus, was demolished, and subsequently
rebuilt, only some slight vestiges are remaining on a
hill to the west of the town. When it ceased to be a
royal residence, the castle became the possession of the
earls of Moray, from whom it passed, with the property
attached, to the Dunbars, hereditary sheriffs of Moray,
who resided in a building intended to form part of a
new structure, and which is now, with the lands belong-
ing to it, owned by Sir Lewis Grant. James Dick,
Esq., who bequeathed £140,000, of which the proceeds
are divided among the parochial schoolmasters of the
counties of Elgin, Banff, and Aberdeen, was a native of
the parish.
FORT- AUGUSTUS, a village, post-town, and lately
a quoad sacra district, in the parish of Boleskine and
Abertarff, county of Inverness, 131 miles (N. W.)
from Edinburgh ; containing 700 inhabitants. This
place, situated at the south-western extremity of Loch
Ness, in the middle part of the county, derives its origin
from the establishment of a garrison here in 1729, for
the purpose of checking the proceedings of some clans
in the neighbourhood that were favourable to the house
of Stuart ; and is the central of a chain of forts, all
built with the same design, across the Highlands. Its
name was given to it in honour of the then Prince of
Wales, father of George III. The fort, which stands on
a peninsula formed by the rivers Tarff and Oich, is of a
square form, with bastions at the corners, on which can
be mounted twelve six-pounders ; and it is defended by
a ditch, with a battery, a covert-way, and glacis. The
barracks are constructed for one field-officer, four cap-
tains, twelve subalterns, and 280 rank and file. In
1745 the fort was taken by the Highlanders, and dis-
mantled, but was soon repaired, and became the focus
of some of those severe military operations by which
the Highlanders were completely subdued : it is now
under the charge of a barrack-master and a few soldiers
from Fort- George, whither the guns were removed a few
years since. The village is seated behind the fort, on
the slope of an alluvial terrace ; and, the scenery in the
vicinity is altogether of a wild and mountainous cha-
racter. Over the Tarff is a bridge, kept in repair by
government ; but it was till lately in a very ruinous
state, and dangerous even to foot-passengers. Fairs
are held on the Monday before the second Wednesday in
June, and the 20th of September, or, if not on that day,
446
on the Monday before the 29th. A mission church,
containing 368 sittings, was built about seventy years
ago, partly by subscription, and partly by aid from govern-
ment ; the minister's salary is £74 per annum, which
is chiefly paid by the committee for managing the royal
bounty ; and an ecclesiastical district comprising the
whole of the ancient parish of Abertarff was until lately
attached to the church. An excellent and commodious
school-house and dwelling have been built by subscrip-
tion. Several Roman coins were discovered in 1767.
FORT-GEORGE, Inverness.— See Campbelton.
FORT- WILLIAM, a royal fortress and a village, in
the parish of Kilmalie, county of Inverness, 30 miles
(S. W.) from Fort-Augustus, and 135 (N. W. by W.)
from Edinburgh; containing 1091 inhabitants. This
place, called also Maryburgh, in honour of the queen of
William III., in whose reign the present fortress was
erected, and Gordonsburgli, from the family of Gordon,
on whose lands the village is built, is situated at the
eastern extremity of Loch Eil, near the base of Ben-
Nevis, and in the heart of a district abounding with,
wildly romantic scenery. The fortress stands on the
site of an intrenchment thrown up by General Monk,
during the usurpation of Cromwell, and consists of an
irregular triangle, defended by a glacis and fosse, with
two bastions, mounted with fifteen twelve-pounders ; it
has a bomb-proof magazine, and barracks for the re-
ception of two field-officers, two captains, four subalterns,
and a garrison of ninety-six non-commissioned officers
and privates. It was besieged by a party of the rebels,
under the command of Captain Scott, in 1746 ; but,
after a resolute defence of five weeks, during which six:
men were killed and twenty- four wounded, the assailants
raised the siege, and dispersed. A considerable portion
of the wall was undermined some few years since, by
the impetuous current of the river Nevis, descending
from Ben-Nevis ; and the structure has since that time
been gradually going into decay. The village consists
of a long narrow street, extending along the margin of
the lake, and intersected by various smaller streets ; the
inhabitants are chiefly supported by the herring-fishery,
for which the harbour affords considerable facilities, and
a quay has recently been constructed, partly at the
expense of the fishery commissioners, and partly by
private contributions. A public library, which has a
tolerable collection of standard works, is supported by
subscription ; and there are some good inns : one of the
sheriffs-substitute, whose jurisdiction extends over part
of Argyllshire, resides in the village, and there are some
families of respectability within the fortress. Fairs are
held for cattle and horses on the second Wednesdays
in June and November, and a fair for sheep and wool
on the Tuesday after the second Thursday in July, all
of which are well attended. A church was recently
erected, to replace a former which had been pronounced
unsafe ; it is a neat structure containing 350 sittings,
and the minister has a stipend of £100, of which £60
are paid by the Committee of the Royal Bounty, £20
by the congregation, and the remainder by the heritors.
There are a place of worship for members of the Free
Church, an episcopal, and a Roman Catholic chapel;
and the parochial school is situated in the village.
FORTEVIOT, a parish, in the county of Perth,
5 miles (W. by S.) from Bridge of Earn ; containing
638 inhabitants, of whom 69 are in the village. This
FORT
FORT
was the seat of many of the Pictish kings, who had a
palace at Haly Hill, near the site of the present church ;
and this palace, after the extinction of the Pictish mo-
narchy, and the union of the two kingdoms by Kenneth
Mc Alpine, became the favourite summer residence of
several of the Scottish sovereigns. Kenneth resided
for many years at the place, where he ended his days ;
it was afterwards the summer residence of Malcolm
Canmore, and several of his successors' charters were
dated hence. Previously to the battle of Dupplin,
which occurred on the 31st of July, 1332, Edward
Baliol encamped his forces in a field in this parish,
called the Miller's acre ; and the ancient mill from
which it took its name, and the ford of Coblehaugh,
where his army crossed the river, are yet remaining.
The eminence of Haly Hill has been considerably un-
dermined by the river May, and many portions of the
buildings of the palace have been destroyed ; but there
are still some vestiges, and in several houses in the
parish that were built with the ruins, may be traced
numerous stones curiously sculptured with antique
figures, which once formed part of the royal resi-
dence.
The parish, which is about eight miles in length and
two in breadth, is divided into three detached and un-
equal portions by the intervening parishes of Aberdalgie
and Forgandenny. Of these portions the central divi-
sion, in which is the village, is the largest, and is situ-
ated on the south of the river Earn ; another extends
into the Ochils, comprising some of the most conspi-
cuous hills of the range; and the third, lying to the
east of Aberdalgie, and the smallest, is bounded on the
south by the Earn. The surface is beautifully diversified
with hill and dale : and the scenery, enriched with
wood, and enlivened by the windings of the rivers, is
in many places strikingly picturesque. The Earn
crosses the whole breadth of the parish from east to
west, and, frequently overflowing its banks, does consi-
derable damage to the lower lands. The May, which
rises in the Ochils, after a course of eight miles joins
the Earn. In its progress, it forces for itself a pas-
sage through a deep fissure in a rock, which, from the
rumbling noise of the waters, has obtained the appella-
tion of the " Humble Bumble;" and a little above this
is the linn of Muckarsie, where the river is precipitated
from a height of thirty feet, and, after heavy rains, forms
a picturesque cascade. The lands, of which the soil
is various, are under excellent cultivation, producing
favourable crops ; the farms are generally of large ex-
tent, and the occupiers men of capital. The farm-
buildings are consequently of superior order ; and all
the recent improvements in husbandry, and in the con-
struction of agricultural implements, have been adopted
to their full extent. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £6301.
Invermay House, the seat of Alexander H. M. Belshes,
Esq., and for many generations the seat of that ancient
family, is now a handsome modern mansion, beautifully
situated on an eminence overhanging the river May, and
commanding an extensive view of the vale of Strathearn,
with the windings of its river, and the romantically-
diversified scenery of the adjacent country. All that
remains of the old structure is apparently a ruin, though
containing several apartments still entire, and in good
preservation, and forming a pleasing contrast with the
447
modern mansion. The grounds are tastefully laid out,
and embellished with plantations, and with the graceful
course of the river May, which flows through the de-
mesne. About a mile from the house is the sepulchral
chapel of Muckarsie, the church of that parish before it
was united to Forteviot, and now the burial-place of the
family ; the approach is by a beautiful avenue of lime-
trees. The whole of the grounds are kept in the finest
order, and are open to the public for one day in the
week, affording a favourite excursion to invalids fre-
quenting the neighbouring wells of Pitcaithly. The
village of Forteviot is pleasantly situated on the right
bank of the May, a short distance from its influx into
the Earn, and is neat and well built ; the inhabitants
are chiefly employed in agriculture. The ecclesiastical
affairs are under the superintendence of the presbytery
of Perth and synod of Perth and Stirling ; the minister's
stipend is £244, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£6. 15. per annum. The church, before the Reforma-
tion, was attached to the abbey of Cambuskenneth, and
subsequently to the college of St. Andrew's, in whom,
and in the family of Belshes, of Invermay, the patronage
of the living is jointly vested : the present edifice was
built about seventy years since, and is a plain structure,
in good repair. There is a place of worship for mem-
bers of the Secession Church in the Ochil district of the
parish. The parochial school is attended by about fifty
children ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house,
and an allowance of £2. 2. 9. in lieu of garden, the fees
averaging £16 per annum.
FORTH, a village, in the parish of Carnwath,
Upper ward of the county of Lanark, S| miles (N. E.
by E.) from Lanark ; containing 357 inhabitants. This
is a modern village, seated on the road from Lanark to
Whitburn, and may be almost regarded as an appen-
dage to Wilsontown, being chiefly inhabited by persons
employed in the coal and iron mines connected with the
extensive iron-works of that place, founded by the
Messrs. Wilson, of London, about the year 1780.
FORTINGAL, a parish, in the county of Perth,
85 miles (VV. S. W.) from Aberfeldy ; containing, with
part of the late quoad sacra districts of Foss, Glenlyon,
and Rannoch, 2740 inhabitants. This place, of which
the name is of very doubtful origin, is historically dis-
tinguished only for the conflicts of hostile clans, and for
a battle that occurred at Glen-Sassun, between the forces
of Robert Bruce and those of Edward of England. The
parish is forty miles in length, from east to west, and
varies from thirty to thirty-five miles in breadth. It is
bounded on the north by the parish of Laggan, in the
county of Inverness, and on the north-east by that of
Blair- Atholl ; on the east, by the parish of Dull ; on the
south, by the parishes of Kenmore and Killin ; on the
west, by the parish of Appin, in Argyllshire, and part of
Weem ; and on the south-west by the parish of Glenor-
chy. It occupies a large portion of the north-western
district of the county, including a considerable part of
the great Caledonian forest, and comprising an area of
nearly 130 miles in circumference. The surface is
strikingly diversified with mountains and valleys, deep
sequestered glens, and lakes of various extent, the whole
forming one of the boldest and richest combinations of
scenery in the country. Exclusively of the lofty moun-
tains that inclose the parish on the north and south
sides, one vast and continuous range intersects the
FORT
FORT
whole area, in a direction from east to west, dividing it
into two nearly equal portions, of which the northern
comprehends the district of Rannoch, and the southern
those of Fortingal and Glenlyon. In addition to the
principal chains which circumscribe and divide the
parish, there are numerous mountains of considerable
magnitude that rise to a great height in detached situa-
tions ; and from the summits of them most magnificent
views are obtained of the amphitheatre spread beneath,
abounding with every variety of picturesque and roman-
tic beauty. The chief mountains, of which there are
more than ten or twelve connected with the parish, have
elevations varying from 3000 to 3S00 feet above the
level of the sea ; the range that intersects the parish is
not less than seven miles in breadth at the base, and
many of its heights are more than 3000 feet above the
sea.
Of the valleys the principal is Glenlyon, extending in
a western direction for more than thirty miles, and
inclosed by mountains on each side, which in some
parts of it obtrude so greatly as scarcely to allow suffi-
cient breadth for the channel of the river that flows
between their bases. There were formerly several lakes
in this glen, of which Loch Lyon, nearly at the head, is
the only one now remaining, and is that in which the
river Lyon has its source. The valley is almost a per-
fect level, affording excellent pasturage for sheep, of
which about 20,000 are generally fed ; the sides of the
mountains, also, are covered with verdure to their very
summits. Numerous dells branch off from the glen, of
which some are nearly four miles in length, and watered
by various streams, forming tributaries to the Lyon.
One of these streams, called Allt-da-ghob, from the dell
of that name, has, when viewed from the hill on the
opposite side, a truly grand appearance : on being
swollen by rains, it rushes down the sides of an abrupt
precipice, nearly 500 feet in height, with tumultuous
impetuosity, then is totally lost in a chasm invisible to
the spectator from its great depth, and, after successive
reappearances as if issuing from the brow of the moun-
tain, runs violently down a second precipice, of 200 feet,
in one continued sheet, to the level of the glen, from
which it flows with a tranquil course into the Lyon.
The valley of Glenmore, situated between Rannoch and
Fortingal, anciently formed part of the forest of Sith-
Chaillinn, of which the only vestiges now remaining are
the roots of trees once existing, which are dug up in
great quantities for fuel, and also for affording light, for
which purpose the roots of the fir-trees are well adapted.
Many trunks of old oaks are also found in this glen,
of a black hue, and which, though soft when first found,
harden on exposure to the atmosphere ; they are split,
and sold in the markets for sharpening scythes, for
which they answer well. The valley of Fortingal, whence
the parish takes its name, is a fine level tract about
half a mile in breadth, and six miles in length, commu-
nicating by defiles with the roads to Loch Tay and
Glenlyon, and with the turnpike-road to Crieff and
Inverness : with the exception of these passes, it is
completely surrounded with mountains. The vale is
ornamented with residences and demesnes tastefully
arranged, and enriched with woods and plantations;
and from its great diversity of features it is one of the
most picturesque and interesting in this part of the
country. The mountains by which it is inclosed are
448
clothed with verdure to their summits, and contrast
finely with the level tracts of luxuriant pasturage, and
the expanse of fertile lands in the highest state of culti-
vation.
Of the rivers, the Tummel has its source in Loch
Rannoch, and, while flowing through that district, is
called the Water of Rannoch ; it is smooth and tranquil
for some miles, but becomes an impetuous and rapid
current on leaving the glen, and, being joined by the
Foss, afterwards obtains its general appellation. The
river Gamhair rises in the southern part of Glen Etive,
and, after a course of several miles, in which it forms
some smaller lakes, expands into Loch Laoidean, on
issuing from which it obtains its name : pursuing its
way for about five miles, it enters an extensive tract of
meadow land, which in rainy seasons it completely inun-
dates, and having flowed through the inhabited portion
of the glen, it falls into Loch Rannoch. The river Lyon
has its source in the loch of that name, and, after water-
ing Glenlyon, and receiving in its course of nearly forty
miles almost innumerable streams from the mountains,
falls into the Tay below Taymouth Castle. The Eroclid
issues from the lake of that name, and, after a peaceful
progress of about two miles, becomes, from the acces-
sion of mountain- streams, a rapid and impetuous tor-
rent, sometimes bursting its banks with resistless vio-
lence, till it forces its way into Loch Rannoch. There
are many smaller rivers in various parts of the parish ;
and from the mountainous character of the lands
through which they pass, and the consequent accumu-
lation of their waters from mountain torrents, they are
all diversified in their appearance, and, from the power-
ful obstructions to their course, exhibit waterfalls in
numerous places. The falls of the Tummel, on the con-
fines of the parish, of the Lyon, in the glen of that
name, of the Gamhair and Duibhe, at the head of
Glen Rannoch, of the Conait, and of the Keltney, are
beautifully picturesque. Of the lakes in this extensive
parish, Loch Erochd, to the north-east of Glen Rannoch,
is sixteen miles in length, and about one mile in average
breadth ; it is inclosed on both sides by lofty and pre-
cipitous ranges of rugged and barren mountains, occa-
sionally softened and enlivened by fertile spots in l-ich
cultivation, and by the sporting boxes of the gentry who
resort to this place for shooting the various kinds of
game with which the mountains abound. Loch Laoi-
dean is about eight miles to the west of Glen Rannoch ;
it is six miles in length, and little more than half a mile
in breadth, and is studded with several picturesque
islands, richly wooded. Its shores are indented with
numerous small creeks, and diversified with boldly-pro-
jecting promontories ; and near the western extremity
of the lake is an island of yew-trees, among which the
red deer frequently shelter, and the eagle rears its young.
Loch Lyon, which is romantically situated in the glen of
that name, is about three miles in length, and half a
mile broad ; its shores abound with agreeable scenery,
and though less bold, it is more pleasing in its features,
being beautified with luxuriant verdure and enriched by
cultivation. Loch Garry, on the border of the parish,
eight miles from Glen Rannoch, is about four miles in
length, and half a mile in breadth ; its scenery is bold
and varied, but differs little from that of some of the
other lakes. In the rocks, and the sides of the various
mountains, are many caves of natural formation, which,
FORT
FORT
in the earlier periods of the history, afforded shelter to
the chiefs of hostile clans in their frequent conflicts, and
in some of which Sir William Wallace and King Robert
Bruce, during the war with England, concealed them-
selves while watching for opportunities of attacking
their enemies, or waiting after a defeat to recruit their
forces, and concert new enterprises for the deliverance
of their country. They also provided a secure asylum
for numerous depredators.
The soil varies according to the elevation of the
lands ; in the lower valleys it is generally dry and gra-
velly ; on the acclivities of the mountains it is thinner,
but affords excellent pasturage for cattle and sheep ;
nearer the summits it is a bleak sterile moor, producing
but little grass, and abounding with heath ; and the
summits of the mountains are covered with moss. The
number of acres in the parish is 44S,000 j but compara-
tively little is under regular cultivation, the arable lands
bearing only a small proportion to the pastures, and
the principal object of the inhabitants being the feeding
of cattle and sheep, the latter chiefly of the black-faced
kind, which are more hardy, and thrive well on the
mountain pastures. Particular attention is paid to the
improvement of the breed, and also to that of the cattle,
which are all the West Highland, and at the sales
that occasionally take place sell for high prices. Con-
siderable improvements have been effected in the sys-
tem of agriculture ; the farm-buildings and offices are
substantial and commodious ; the lands are well in-
closed, and the fences kept in good repair. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £13,300. The woods
are chiefly the remains of the ancient Caledonian forest,
which at one time was more than eighty miles in extent ;
they consist mainly of birch and native fir. The plan-
tations, scattered over various parts of the parish, are
not, in the aggregate, of any very great extent ; they
comprise native fir, larch, and spruce, with some oak,
ash, beech, elm, and birch. The substrata are lime-
stone, forming part of the Grampian range, which
crosses the eastern part of the parish ; it is of superior
quality, and is wrought for agricultural purposes and for
building. Abed of fine blue stone has been found, and
a quarry opened on the lands of Mr. Menzies, of Chest-
hill ; marble of various colours also occurs in several
parts, and rock crystals, spars, and agates of great
variety and beauty are obtained in the mountains. A
vein o*f lead-ore of considerable richness was disco-
vered in Glenlyon, and formerly wrought with success ;
near the village, also, lead-ore appears ; and slate is sup-
posed to exist in some places, but has not been yet
explored. In the district of Bolfracks. in a detached
portion of the parish, is an extensive quarry, the stone
of which is of superior quality for building ; it is very
compact and durable, and susceptible of a high polish,
in every respect resembling the stone of which Tay-
mouth Castle is built.
In Glen-Fortingal are several handsome residences,
beautifully encompassed by richly-wooded and pleasant
demesnes ; and in Glen-Rannoch are likewise some
good seats, one of which is situated in a demesne com-
prising about 70,000 Scotch acres. Communication
with the neighbouring towns is afforded by roads kept
in repair by statute labour ; the nearest great towns
are Crieff and Perth, the former about thirty, and the
latter forty, miles distant. A penny-post has been
established at Kinloch-Rannoch, which communicates
Vol. I.— 449
with Pitlochry ; and at the western extremity of Glen-
Rannoch is a handsome bridge over the river Gamhair,
erected by Sir Neil Menzies. Fairs are held at Kirkton
in the beginning of December, continuing for three
days, for the sale of cattle, sheep, and goats, and
the transaction of general business ; in the end of
April, for lint and clover seeds ; and in August, for
lambs, the first being the principal market in this part
of the country. Fairs are also held at Kinloch-Ran-
noch, in April, for cattle ; in August, for lambs ; and
in October, for cattle ; and at Inverwick, in the dis-
trict of Glenlyon, annually for sheep. The ecclesias-
tical affairs are under the superintendence of the
presbytery of Weem and synod of Perth. The stipend
of the incumbent is £255 ; the manse is a handsome
and commodious residence, and the glebe is valued at
£10 per annum. The church, a very ancient and sub-
stantial structure, was repaired in 1821, and is adapted
for a congregation of 376 persons. There are two
government churches, situated respectively in Glenlyon
and Glen-Rannoch. The parochial school affords a
good course of instruction ; the master has a salary of
£34, with a house, and an allowance in money in lieu
of garden, and the fees average about £21 per annum.
There are also two schools under the patronage of the
General Assembly, and two under that of the Society
for Propagating Christian Knowledge ; the masters of
each of the former have a salary of £20, with a house,
and a portion of land ; and those of the latter have a
salary varying from £15 to £20, with an allowance in
money for fuel. Seven other schools, in distant parts
of the parish, are supported by general subscription of
the inhabitants. The parochial school-house is a very
handsome and commodious building, recently erected by
the heritors.
To the west of Fortingal are the remains of a Roman
camp, in which the site of the general's tent is still
marked out by the fosse with which it was surrounded ;
the prsetorium is in good preservation, and north-west
of it is a tumulus sixty feet in length, and about twenty
feet wide at the base, raised over the remains of those
who fell in battle. A little to the west of the general's
tent are two obelisks, the one, about six feet in height,
yet standing, and the other, eight feet, long since fallen
to the ground. This encampment occupies an area
of nearly ninety acres. There are some remains of
Druidical circles near the parish church, and in various
parts of the parish are others ; also numerous forts of
circular form, of which the walls, built of loose stones,
are of great thickness ; the diameter within the walls
averages about sixty feet, and the area is divided into
various halls and smaller apartments. These forts are
generally referred to the time of Fingal, and are tradi-
tionally said to have been castles belonging to the
heroes of that chieftain. There are two ancient castles,
though of later date, the baronial residences of chiefs
in feudal times : one of these is situated on the sum-
mit of a rock in the east portion of the parish, and was
the seat of the brother of the Earl of Buchan, ancestor
of the Stewarts of Atholl. The other, situated in Glen-
lyon, is on a lofty and precipitous bank, and was defended
by a drawbridge ; it was, till the middle of the 16th
century, the residence of Duncan Campbell, of Glenlyon,
who was equally renowned for his valour and his hos-
pitality. On the lands of Inverchadain are the remains
of a mound of turf and stones, called " Sheomar-na-
3M
FORT
F O S S
Bursh Seal.
Staing," where Wallace, on his route from Argyll,
remained for several days, attended by a few of his
faithful adherents, and where he was joined by the men
of Rannoch, who marched with his forces to the battles
of Dunkeld and Perth. In the churchyard of Fortingal
is a very ancient yew-tree of remarkable growth, the
trunk of which is divided into two stems, between which
is an interval of several feet : at a distance it appears
like two distinct trees, and though partly injured at an
early period of its growth, it has attained to such a
size that the branches spread over an area of nearly
sixty feet in circumference. — See Rannoch, &c.
FORTROSE, or Cha-
nonry, a royal burgh, and
lately a quoad sacra district,
in the parish of Rosemarkie,
county of Ross and Cro-
marty, 10§ miles (N. N. E.)
from Inverness, and S(S.S.W.)
from Cromarty ; containing,
with the burgh of Rose-
§fy? markie, 10S2 inhabitants, of
whom 324 are in that burgh.
This place, anciently the
Chanonry of Ross, and the
seat of that diocese, was united by charter of James II.,
in 1455, with the town of Rosemarkie, which had been
erected into a royal burgh by Alexander II., and which
is distant from it about half a mile to the east. The
united burghs, under the common name of Fortrose,
received a confirmation of all ancient privileges from
James VI., in 1592; and by charter of the same mo-
narch, in 1612, these privileges were extended, and the
burgesses invested with all the liberties and immunities
enjoyed by those of Inverness. There was anciently a
castle at Fortrose, belonging to the earls of Seaforth,
who were also viscounts of Fortrose; but no remains
exist. Of the cathedral, a splendid structure, only a
roofless aisle is now left, of which one portion, con-
taining the tombs of several of the bishops, is preserved
as a burial-place for the families of the Mackenzies and
other landed proprietors. To the east of the site of the
cathedral, which occupied a spacious square, in which
were the houses of the canons, is a detached building
with an arched roof, converted into the town-hall, and
having, below, a vaulted apartment lately appropriated
as the town gaol. The episcopal palace, and a great
part of the cathedral, were destroyed by Oliver Crom-
well, who sent the materials by sea to Inverness, for the
erection of his fortress at that place.
The town, which is situated on the western bank of
the Moray Frith, has much declined from its former
importance, and the principal trade now carried on is
that of making shoes, in which, and in the manufacture
of coarse linen, and the shipping of cattle, salmon,
and other produce, for London, the greater number of
the inhabitants are employed. It is, however, beginning
to revive, as a bathing place, for which its delightful
and healthy situation renders it well adapted ; and
Roderick Mackenzie, Esq., the principal proprietor in
the neighbourhood, has lately made considerable im-
provements, tending to enhance the beauty of the town.
A neat and ornamental water-cistern, also, has just
been erected at the cross of Fortrose, from the funds
of the burgh. At Chanonry Point, a headland pro-
jecting deeply into the Frith, is a lighthouse, near the
450
ferry to Fort-George, on the opposite shore ; and a
small commodious harbour, erected by the parliamen-
tary commissioners, is frequented by the Leith, Aber-
deen, and Dundee traders. The town of Rosemarkie,
though in point of antiquity it has the precedence,
is -still inferior to Fortrose in importance, and is in-
habited partly by persons occupied in fishing. The
post-office has a daily delivery ; and fairs are held in
April, June, and November. Facility of communica-
tion is afforded by good roads to Inverness and Ding-
wall, and by the ferry to Fort-George : steam-vessels
plying in the Frith, and well fitted up for the convey-
ance of passengers and goods, land various kinds of
merchandise, and convey the salmon taken here to
Aberdeen, Leith, and London, to which last place consi-
derable numbers of cattle are also sent.
The government of the burgh is vested in a provost,
three bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and nine
councillors, chosen under the regulations of the late
Municipal Reform act. There are no incorporated
trades : the fees of admission as burgesses are, for
strangers, £3. 3. for ordinary trades, and £5. 5. for
those of a higher class ; and for sons of burgesses half
those sums. The magistrates exercise jurisdiction in
civil and criminal cases to the usual extent ; but very
little business is transacted in either of the courts. A
circuit sheriff's court is regularly held here. The
burgh is associated with those of Forres, Inverness, and
Nairn, in returning a member to the imperial parlia-
ment ; the number of qualified voters is forty-nine. The
quoad sacra parish of Fortrose, which included the
town of Fortrose, and a portion of the adjacent lands,
was separated from the parish of Rosemarkie by act of
the General Assembly. The church, a handsome and
substantial structure, recently erected in the town, by
subscription, affords ample accommodation ; the minis-
ter, who is appointed by the male communicants of
the congregation, derives his stipend from the produce
of a fund bequeathed for that purpose by Mr. Thomas
Forbes, and from the seat-rents. There are places of
worship for members of the Free Church, and Baptists;
and an episcopal chapel, in the later English style of
architecture. The academy, under the superintendence
of a rector and an assistant, is supported by subscrip-
tion, and is well attended. — See Rosemarkie.
FORVIE, county of Aberdeen. — See Slains.
FOSS, late a quoad sacra parish, partly in the parish
of Fortingal, but chiefly in that of Dull, county of
Perth, 8 miles (N.) from Dull ; containing 450 inha-
bitants, of whom 1 1 are in Fortingal. This district
was separated for ecclesiastical purposes, by act of the
General Assembly, in 1S30, and annexed as a quoad
sacra parish to a church erected here by parliamentary
grant. The church is situated on the south bank of
the river Tummel, near the western extremity of the
lake of that name : the stipend of the minister is
£120, with a manse, and a glebe of the annual value of
£2. 10.
FOSSOWAY, a parish, in the counties of Kinross
and Perth, 6 miles (W.) from Kinross, and 8 (N. E.
by E.) from Alloa ; containing, with the villages of
Blairingone, Crook of Devon, and Easter and Wester
Gartwhinean, 1724 inhabitants. This parish includes
the ancient parish of Tulliebole, united with it in 1614,
and which, forming part of the county of Kinross,
divides Fossoway into two separate portions. Of these,
F O S S
FO S S
the one lying to the north of the lands of Tulliebole,
comprises the barony of Fossoway, with a considerable
part of the Ochil hills ; and that on the south, the
barony of Aldie on the east, and the lands of Blairin-
gone on the west, with the valley between the Ochils,
on the north, and the Cleish and Saline hills on the
south. The whole of the united parish is eleven miles
in extreme length, and about ten miles in extreme
breadth, comprising an area of 18,6S'2 acres, of which
nearly 11,000 are arable and pasture, 1125 woodland
and plantations, and the remainder waste. The surface
is diversified with hills of various elevation, of which
the principal are from 1000 to 1500 feet in height above
the level of the sea. One of these, called Easter Down-
hill, is of conical form, skirted round its base with
natural wood, and covered with verdure to the summit;
and the hill of Inmerdownie, which is the highest in
the parish, commands an extensive prospect, embracing
at one view the rivers Forth and Tay. Most of the
hills afford excellent pasturage for sheep and cattle,
and the intervening valleys are richly cultivated ; the
lower grounds are also intersected with ridges, rising
more or less precipitously to considerable degrees of
eminence. The river Devon, which bounds the parish
for nearly nine miles, has its source in the Ochils, and,
after a long and winding course, falls into the river
Forth at Cambus. The lands are also watered by the
rivulets of North and South Queich and the East Gair-
ney, which flow into Loch Leven, and the West Gair-
ney, which joins the Devon near the Linn Caldron. In
the Devon and in the other streams trout of good quality
are taken.
The scenery is boldly varied, and in some parts strik-
ingly romantic : the river Devon forms several cascades,
of which one of the principal is the Rumbling Bridge,
so called from a bridge twenty-two feet in span, below
which the river, impeded in its progress by projecting
rocks, falls successively from various heights with tumul-
tuous noise. Lower down is the Linn Caldron, where,
within a distance of twenty-eight yards, the stream has
two falls, one of thirt3r-four and the other of forty-four
feet, of nearly perpendicular descent ; and in the in-
terval the rocks are worn into three spacious cavities,
in two of which the water, from its violent agitation,
has the appearance of boiling. Near the old Rumbling
Bridge, which is still entire, a bridge has been recently
erected on the line of the turnpike-road. The soil in
some parts of the parish is mossy, in others a gravel,
and in some places clay alternated with loam; the
system of agriculture is in an advanced state ; much
waste land has been brought into profitable cultivation,
and the inclosures, partly of stone dykes and partly
fences of thorn, are well kept. On the lands of Fosso-
way, a fence of wire-work attached to posts of wood
has recently been introduced. The farm-houses and
offices, with very few exceptions, are substantial and
commodious ; and most of the later improvements in
husbandry have been adopted. The rateable annual
value of the Perthshire portion of the parish now
amounts to £3900, and that of the Kinross-shire por-
tion to £4618. The plantations are extensive, and pro-
perly managed ; they consist principally of spruce and
Scotch fir, ash, elm, plane, and beech, all of which grow
well in the soil. Larch, which formerly produced con-
siderable profit, has within the last few years appeared
451
to degenerate : oak, which has only recently been
planted, seems to thrive. There are quarries of whin-
stone and freestone in several parts, and in the western
districts are found limestone, coal, and ironstone : at
Blairingone are three collieries in operation, two of
which were but lately opened. The ironstone for many
years was extensively wrought, but the working of it
has recently been almost discontinued. In a rock near
the Rumbling Bridge is found copper-ore ; but the
quantity bears so small a proportion to the material in
which it is contained, that it cannot be wrought to
advantage.
The castle of Tulliebole, the seat of Sir James W.
Moncrieff, Bart., one of the judges of the Court of Session,
is an ancient mansion, having been erected in 160S;
Devonshaw House and Arndean are both handsome
modern mansions, pleasantly situated on the banks of
the Devon. The castle of Aldie, once the baronial seat
of the Mercers, and now the property of their represen-
tative, the Baroness Keith, though uninhabited remains
entire. The principal villages are Blairingone and Crook
of Devon, both burghs of barony : the latter is situated
on the river Devon, which here makes a sudden turn in
its course, whence the village takes its name ; and there
is a good inn for the accommodation of the numerous
visiters who frequent the place in order to view the
interesting scenery in its vicinity. The parish also con-
tains several hamlets, of which the most considerable
are Gartwhinean and Carnbo. Fairs are held in May
and in October, when cattle and wares are exposed for
sale. The turnpike-road from Dunfermline to Crieff
passes through the parish, from north to south, and
that from Kinross to Alloa intersects it from east to
west : parallel with the latter, and about two miles to
the north of it, is the turnpike-road from Stirling to
the east of Fife ; and the Dunning road also crosses a
portion of the parish. There are six bridges over the
Devon, which tend to facilitate the communication be-
tween this place and the neighbouring towns. The
ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence
of the presbytery of Auehterarder and synod of Perth
and Stirling. The minister's stipend is £164, with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £8. 13. 4. ; patron, Sir
Graham Montgomerie, of Kinross. The church, built
in 1S06, is a plain edifice in good repair, containing 525
sittings. A church, to which a quoad sacra parish was
for a short time assigned, has been erected on a site a
little to the east of the village of Blairingone, given for
that purpose by Mark Watt, Esq., who also subscribed
liberally towards its erection ; it was opened for divine
service in 1 S3S, and is a neat structure containing 250
sittings. The parochial school is attended by about
seventy children ; the master has a salary of £34, with
a house and garden, some land worth £12 per annum,
and the fees averaging £2". Another school is partly
supported by private subscription. There is a petrify-
ing spring on the lands of Devonshaw ; and on the
estate of Blairingone, a mineral spring was discovered
about fifteen years since, the water of which, according
to an analysis made by Dr. Thomson, professor of
chemistry in the university of Glasgow, contains in an
imperial gallon, 5'S7 grs. common salt, 170'99 grs. sul-
phate of soda, 953'1S grs. sulphate of alumine, 1753-10
grs. dipersulphate of iron, 141 '55 grs. persulphate of
iron, and 5S'70 grs. of silica. The water is too strong
3 M 2
FOUL
F O V E
for internal use, without dilution ; but, externally ap-
plied, is powerful in healing wounds. — See Blairin-
CONE, &C.
FOULA, an island, in the county of Shetland ;
forming part of the parish of Walls and Sandness,
and containing 215 inhabitants. This island lies almost
twenty miles distant from any land, and is the most
westerly of the Shetlands ; it is about three miles in
length, and one and a half in breadth, with bold and
steep shores, and formed chiefly of three hills of a nearly
conical shape, the highest of which attains an elevation
of between S00 and 900 feet. There is very little level
ground ; and the isle has only one landing-place, Ham,
on the east side, and even this cannot be approached
in bad weather : the island is resorted to as a fishing
station, and it affords excellent pasturage for sheep.
Dense columns of birds of various kinds hover round it,
literally darkening the air at particular seasons ; the
surface of the hills swarms with plover, crows, and cur-
lews, and the cormorants occupy the lower portions of
the cliffs. The minister of Walls makes a periodical
visit to the isle, remaining usually for two Sundays ; the
schoolmaster officiates as a kind of pastor at other times.
FOUNTAIN HALL, a hamlet, in the parish of Stow,
county of Edinburgh, 4 miles (N. W. by N.) from
Stow ; containing 60 inhabitants. It is situated in the
centre of the parish, on the western side of the Gala
water, and on the road from Stow to Borthwick. There
is a good library in the hamlet.
FOULDEN, a parish, in the county of Berwick,
5 miles (N. W. by W.) from Berwick ; containing 393
inhabitants, of whom 73 are in the village, and the re-
mainder in the rural districts of the parish. This place,
of which the signification and derivation of the name
are alike uncertain, is chiefly distinguished for a con-
ference held in the church in 15S7, between commis-
sioners appointed by James VI. of Scotland, and others
sent by Elizabeth of England, to discuss and investigate
those circumstances in the conduct of the unfortunate
Mary by which Elizabeth endeavoured to vindicate the
incarceration and subsequent decapitation of her royal
sister. The parish is about two miles and a quarter in
length, and very nearly of equal breadth, and comprises
3000 acres, of which 2400 are arable, 300 woodland
and plantations, and the remainder rough pasture and
waste. The surface is diversified with gentle slopes,
and with wood-crowned heights, which shelter it from
the colder winds ; the scenery is generally interesting,
and in some parts pleasingly picturesque and romantic.
The river Whiteadder, which is here of considerable
depth, skirts the southern side of the parish for the whole
distance, in its progress to the Tweed, into which it falls
near Berwick ; its banks are of precipitous height, and
on the north side intersected with numerous glens,
through which many streams from the higher lands
find their way into its channel.
The soil in some parts is a strong clay, in some a
sandy loam, and in others a cultivated moor ; the crops
are, wheat, oats, barley, beans, potatoes, and turnips.
The system of agriculture is in an advanced state ; the
lands are well drained and inclosed, the farm-houses
and offices substantially built and conveniently arranged;
and all the more recent improvements in husbandry are
practised. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£5002. The woods are partly of great age ; the plan-
452
tations consist of oak, ash, elm, birch, chesnut, and
sycamore, with spruce and Scotch firs. Foulden House,
the seat of the proprietor of four-fifths of the parish, is
a handsome mansion, pleasantly situated in an exten-
sive and richly-wooded demesne, ornamented with much
stately timber of ancient growth, and with young and
thriving plantations. The village is neatly built, and
inhabited by persons employed in agricultural pursuits
and in the various handicraft trades requisite for the
parish. A fair, chiefly for pleasure, is held annually in the
village ; and the want of easier means of communication
with the market-town and other places, which was pre-
viously severely felt, was recently supplied by the erec-
tion of a good bridge over the river Whiteadder, for
which purpose a grant from the county of £500, and a
subscription of £1500 from the gentry of the district,
were obtained. The parish is in the presbytery of
Chirnside and synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and
patronage of John Wilkie, Esq. ; the minister's stipend
is £152. 18., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £24
per annum. The church, situated within the grounds
of Foulden House, was erected in 1786, after the ancient,
church had become ruinous ; it is a neat edifice, well
adapted for the parish, and the interior is capable of being
seated for the accommodation of the whole population.
The parochial school affords a good course of instruction;
the master has a salary of £34, with £10 fees, and a
house and garden. From the name of an estate in the
parish, called Nunlands, it is supposed that a religious
establishment once existed here, though no account of it
has transpired ; and there were formerly remains of an
ancient fort called Foulden Castle, probably a place of
retreat during the wars of the border. In the church-
yard is an epitaph to the memory of some hero who
appears to have distinguished himself in those preda-
tory incursions so frequent in feudal times ; it is inscribed
to George Ramsay, and dated 4th January, 1592.
FOVERAN, a parish, in the district of Ellon,
county of Aberdeen, 12 miles (N. by W.) from Aber-
deen ; containing, with the village of Newburgh and the
barony of Knockhall, 1620 inhabitants. This place
was formerly remarkable for its castle, called Foveran,
as is supposed, from a sweet and powerful spring, which
still flows with its ancient vigour ; but every vestige
of the fortress is gone. The parish is situated in the
district of Formartine, stretching along the coast of the
German Ocean, and is separated on the north by the
burn of Tarty from the parish of Logie-Buchan, and
from the sands of Forvie on the east by the river Ythan.
It is about seven miles in length, from east to west,
and three in breadth, from north to south, and is
watered by the beautiful burn of Foveran, which turns
three meal-mills, and, after forming in its pleasing
course the chief ornament in the scenery, which is
nearly destitute of wood, falls into the Ythan at New-
burgh. Agriculture is steadily pursued ; but the prin-
cipal interest of the locality lies in the fishing village
and maritime port of Newburgh, which see. The land
is generally fertile, and distributed into many good
farms, producing fine crops; the farm-houses are mostly
built of stone and lime, and are commodious and well
finished : within the last twenty years large tracts
of barren soil have been improved, and drains and
fences constructed on an extensive scale. The mail-
road from Aberdeen to Peterhead intersects the parish,
FOWL
FOWL
and has several branches, one ofwhieli, called the Fiddes
road, joins the Udny turnpike-road, opening important
facilities of intercourse with that part of the country :
there is also a turnpike-road from Aberdeen to Meth-
lick, at the western extremity of the parish ; and
another has been just completed, which is found highly
beneficial, from Old Meldrum to the village of New-
burgh. About twenty head of fat-cattle are shipped
every week at the port, for the London market; and
lime, coal, timber, bones, &c. are imported. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £57 13. Foveran is in
the presbytery of Ellon and synod of Aberdeen, and in
the patronage of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is
£193, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £11 per
annum. The church is a plain substantial edifice, built
in 1794, and accommodating 700 persons ; the interior
contains two handsome marble monuments to the Foveran
family, and another, of very superior character, designed
by Bacon, to the Udny family. Excellent walls have
recently been built round the churchyard, with money
left for that purpose by Miss Robertson, of Foveran.
The parochial school affords instruction in the usual
branches ; the master has a salary of £2S, with about
£31 fees. There is also a school at Cultercullen, in the
western quarter, with an endowment of £S per annum,
and a free house, and piece of land. Mr. Mather, a
native of the parish, left a sum for the establishment of
four bursaries at Marischal College, under the patronage
of the minister, for boys educated in the parochial
school ; also money for clothing and educating twenty
poor fishermen's children belonging to Newburgh, and
£20 per annum to the minister or schoolmaster for lec-
turing once in each week to the people in the village,
About half a mile north of Newburgh, are the ruins of
the castle of Knockhall, built in the year 1565, and acci-
dentally burnt in 1734 ; it was the seat of the family of
Udny, whose ancient burial-ground, also in the neigh-
bourhood of the village, contains the remains of an old
chapel generally called Rood Church.
FOWLIS. — See Lxjndie and Fowlis.
FOWLIS WESTER, a parish, in the county of
Perth ; including the villages of Buchanty and Gil-
merton, and containing 1609 inhabitants, of whom 187
are in the village of Fowlis Wester, 5 miles (E. N. E.)
from Crieff. The origin of the name of this place,
Fowlis, or Foulis, is differently accounted for. A local
tradition states that one of the earls of Strathearn,
wishing for a church in the vicinity of his castle here,
stood on an eminence where he had a summer seat, and
resolved to erect one where the sun first shone, which
was on the spot it now occupies, by him denominated
Foicgiwlish, "under the light." Others derive the name,
but erroneously, from the ancient family of Fowlis, who
are said to have held property here ; they came into
Scotland, from France, in the reign of Malcolm Can-
more, and branches of the family separated into different
parts of the country, which still retain the appellation
of Fowlis. The village was once a place of considerable
importance, where the steward of Strathearn held his
court ; and about a mile east of the church, on a part of
the estate of Fowlis, was formerly a castle, the seat of
the ancient earls of Strathearn, but the site of which
now forms a grassy mount. Here resided Mallus, or
Malise, the first earl, in the reign of Alexander I. ; and
his grandson, Gilbert, in the year 1200, founded the
453
monastery of Inchaffray, near the south border of the
parish. The seventh carl, named also Malise, opposing
Baliol, forfeited the title; and his countess, Joanna,
daughter of Sinclair, Earl of Orkney, in 1320 was en-
gaged in a plot against Robert I., for which, according
to some accounts, she was condemned to perpetual
imprisonment. Mary, sister of the last-mentioned earl,
was married to Sir John Moray, of Drumsargard, to
whom she conveyed the lands of Abercairney, in the
parish ; and her son, Sir Maurice Moray, is said to have
been restored to the earldom, which, however, at length
became extinct on his being taken prisoner, with
David II. and many other noblemen, at the battle of
Durham in 1346.
The parish is six miles in extreme length and four
in breadth, and contains 15,600 acres. It is situated
on the north side of Strathearn, and is bounded on the
north by Glen-Almond ; on the south lies the parish of
Madderty, on the east that of Methven, and on the
west Menzie. The surface is marked by two mountain
ranges, of which the northern is the highest, and forms
a part of the Grampian mountains ; the southern is
three miles in breadth, and consists of large tracts of
moss and heath, ornamented with some plantations,
and interspersed with a few cottages. and cultivated
farms. In the south, where the surface is extremely
irregular, are a number of braes, which diversify the
valley lying in that direction, as well as the southern
slopes of the last-named range of hills. The beautiful
and meandering stream of the Almond bounds the
parish for two miles ; and the lands contiguous to it
exhibit an assemblage of woods, hills, rocks, and cas-
cades, with cottages, so strikingly grouped as to con-
stitute some of the finest scenery in the county. The
river Pow, rising in the mosses below Methven, runs on
the south, and joins the Earn near Iunerpeffray. la
the west is the loch of Luag, situated in a narrow glen,
from which may be seen the stupendous amphitheatre
of hills around Comrie, with the famed Benvoirlich tow-
ering to the clouds.
The soil has many varieties of gravel, sand, loam,
and clay, resting chiefly on rock : though tolerably fer-
tile, it is in many places thin and dry, and where the
subsoil is clay the earth is wet and cold. On the banks
of the Pow the soil is alluvial, from the inundations of
the river. There are 9400 acres in tillage, 6200 in pas-
ture, and 1000 under wood : all kinds of grain are raised,
of average quality ; the green crops consist of potatoes
and turnips, and are produced to a large extent, with
considerable quantities of hay. The cattle are the Fife,
the Ayrshire, and the Teeswater ; and very superior
horses of the Clydesdale breed, the Garron, and the
Cleveland bay, are reared in the parish. A highly-im-
proved system of husbandry is followed, and great
advances have been made in every branch of agricul-
ture ; but, though most of the arable land is inclosed
with stone dykes and with hedges, much still remains
to be done in this respect, and the more effectual em-
bankment of the river Pow is required for protection in
the rainy season. The rocks chiefly belong to the tran-
sition formation : the hills consist of mica-slate, with
occasional beds of quartz and hornblende, and a coarse
red conglomerate composed principally of hornblende
porphyry, which sometimes has the appearance of com-
mon greywacke ; the slate dips at the angle of 45°
FRAS
FRAS
towards the north. In the lower part of the parish are
several extensive beds of grey sandstone in thick strata,
which, instead of being vertical, like the slate, are nearly
horizontal : trap dykes also occur. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £12,700.
The chief mansion is the House of Abercairney, an
elegant modern edifice in the form of an ancient cathe-
dral : the House of Cultoquhey is also a substantial and
commodious residence, built from a design by Smirke, in
the style of the Elizabethan age. The village of Fowlis
is very ancient, and still admits of great improvements,
though some have recently taken place in the construc-
tion and slating of the houses. The lands of Lacock,
adjoining Fowlis, form a burgh of barony, with the pri-
vilege of a weekly market and two annual fairs, none of
which, however, have been lately held. St. Methvan-
mas' fair is held at Fowlis on the 6th of November, for
the sale of black-cattle and for hiring servants ; it was
anciently the parish festival, instituted in honour of the
saint to whom the church was dedicated. The weaving
of cotton is carried on to some extent in the parish, the
raw material being obtained from Glasgow : the manu-
facture of sieves, also, has employed several families for
some generations, to supply the Perth and Fife markets,
where the articles meet with a ready sale at good prices.
There is a fishery on the Almond for salmon and white-
trout, which are taken at a cascade, below which a
basket is suspended to receive the fish, that fall into it
in attempting to overleap the cascade in their passage
up the river. The turnpike-road from Perth to Crieff
passes through the parish ; and there are several other
roads, all of which are kept in good order. The eccle-
siastical affairs are directed by the presbytery of Auch-
terarder and synod of Perth and Stirling ; patron,
William Moray Stirling, Esq., of Abercairney. The
stipend of the minister is £225, with a good manse and
offices, and a glebe of seven acres, valued at £20 per
annum. The church, a very ancient edifice, accommo-
dates 800 persons with sittings. There is a parochial
school, in which the usual branches of education are
taught; the master has the maximum salary, with a
house and garden, and about £25 in fees. In the village
of Fowlis is an old Calvary cross, on one side of which
is a representation of a wolf-chase ; and in the parish
are several Druidical temples, one of them supposed to
have been the temple of an Arch-Druid, and consisting
of a double concentric circle of forty stones in its outer
precinct.
FRASERBURGH, a
burgh of regality and a pa-
rish, in the district of Bu-
chan, county of Aberdeen,
42 miles (N. by E.) from
Aberdeen, and 149 (N. N. E.)
from Edinburgh ; containing
3615 inhabitants, of whom
326 are in the village of
Broadsea. This place, an-
ciently called Faithly, was
once the property of Sir
Burgh Seal. ,, j £ i.
Alexander Fraser, on whose
lands a town was built, for which he obtained a charter
from James VI., erecting it into a burgh of regality
named, in compliment to its superior, Fraserburgh, by
which appellation, also, the parish has since been desig-
454
nated. Sir Alexander, by marriage with the daughter
of George, the seventh baron Saltoun, succeeded to the
title as tenth baron ; and his descendant, the present
Lord Saltoun, who is also hereditary provost of the
burgh, is principal proprietor of the parish. The town,
which is situated on the south side of Kinnaird Head,
a bold promontory projecting into the German Ocean,
near the entrance of the Moray Frith, consists of several
spacious and well-formed streets, intersecting each
other at right angles. The houses are substantially
built, and generally of handsome appearance, and many
of the more modern class are spacious ; the streets are
well paved, and the inhabitants amply supplied with
water. The cross, erected by Sir Alexander Fraser, in
the centre of the town, is an elegant hexagonal struc-
ture of nine receding stages, diminishing from an area
of 500 feet at the base to twenty-three feet on the
platform, from which rises a pillar, twelve feet high,
ornamented with the bearings of the Frasers, sur-
mounted by the British arms.
The principal trade carried on arises from the ex-
portation of grain, other agricultural produce, and
fish ; and the importation of timber, coal, lime, bricks,
tiles, salt, and various kinds of goods for the supply
of the shops in the town. The quantity of grain ex-
ported averages 20,000 quarters, and of potatoes 15,000
bolls annually ; of fish, about 50,000 barrels of herrings,
and dried and pickled cod to the amount of £6000 ;
the whole affording employment to many persons : and
the harbour dues, originally not exceeding £70, have
since the improvement of the harbour increased to
£1900 per annum. The number of vessels registered
as belonging to the port, which is a creek to that of
Banff, is twenty-two, varying from forty-five to 260
tons' burthen ; and about 280 boats are engaged in
the herring-fishery, which is carried on with spirit, and,
during its continuance, makes an increase of 2000 per-
sons in the population of the parish. The harbour,
situated at the north-eastern extremity of the bay of
Fraserburgh, is easy of access, and has a depth of six
feet at low water, and of twenty feet at spring tides ;
it is about eight acres in extent, and affords ample
security to vessels at all times. It has been greatly
improved by the construction of additional piers, and
the erection of a lighthouse on Kinnaird Head, the whole
at an expense of £50,000, of which part was paid by
government, and the remainder by Lord Saltoun, and
by subscription of the inhabitants. Other improve-
ments are at present contemplated. The bay, which is
about three miles in length, forms an excellent road-
stead, where numerous ships of any burthen may lie at
anchor, and is consequently much resorted to by ves-
sels of every description, in adverse weather. The
manufacture of rope and sails, the spinning of linen-
yarn, and some other works connected with the shipping,
are also carried on, to a moderate extent. The town
was erected into a burgh of regality in 1613, and the
government is vested in an hereditary provost, by whom
are appointed two bailies, a dean of guild, treasurer,
and thirteen councillors. The lessees of lands within
the burgh are burgesses, and are bound to maintain
the public works of the town, for which purpose they
possess the market customs and tolls, and, in lieu of
certain privileges over commons, have lands producing a
rent of £160 per annum. The bailies hold courts within
FRAS
FRIO
the burgh for actions of debt, and for the trial of petty
offences. The town-hall was built by Sir Alexander
Fraser, as well as a small gaol, now in a ruinous state,
and unfit for the detention of prisoners. As many as
three branch banks, and a savings' bank, have been
established; the post-office has a daily delivery, and
facility of communication with Aberdeen, Peterhead,
Banff, Strichen, and other places is maintained by good
roads.
The parish, which is bounded on the north by the
Moray Frith, and on the east by the bay of Fraserburgh,
is about eight miles in length, and three and a half in
average breadth, but is divided into two nearly equal
parts by an intervening portion of the parish of Rathen,
more than a mile in breadth : it contains 11,000 acres,
of which, with the exception of about eighty acres, the
whole is arable. The surface near the eastern coast is
low and sandy, and towards the north flat and rocky,
with the exception of the lofty promontory of Kinnaird
Head : from the shore the land rises gradually to the
interior, and to the south are several hills, of which
that of Mormond, covered with moss and heath, has
an elevation of S10 feet above the level of the sea. The
river Philorib, which has its source in the higher dis-
tricts, and receives in its way some tributary streams,
forms a boundary between this parish and Rathen, and
falls into the bay of Fraserburgh. The soil in some
parts is sandy and light, and in others clay, and loam
alternated with gravel, and interspersed with moorland
and moss ; the crops are, grain of all kinds, with beans,
peas, potatoes, and turnips. The system of husbandry
has greatly improved ; the farms vary from fifty to
300 acres in extent ; the lands are partly inclosed and
under good cultivation, and shell-sand, sea-weed, and
bone-dust are the chief manures. The cattle are of the
native breed, intermixed with various others, and recently
some of the Teeswater have been introduced : large
numbers are shipped from the port to the London mar-
ket, where they obtain a high price. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £10,145.
There are some remains of aged natural wood in the
grounds of Philorth House ; and from numerous trunks
of trees buried in the moss, it would appear that the
district was anciently well wooded : plantations have
been recently formed around the house of Philorth, and
on several lands previously unproductive. The prin-
cipal substrata are, limestone, which is quarried for
building purposes and for manure, and granite, which
is found in great quantity in the upper districts of the
parish ; ironstone, also, occurs among the rocks, and
apparently of good quality, but from the scarcity of
fuel it is not wrought. Philorth House, the seat of
Lord Saltoun, the only mansion of any importance, is
pleasantly situated at a short distance from the bay,
and on the west bank of the river Philorth, in grounds
tastefully laid out. The ecclesiastical affairs of the
parish are under the superintendence of the presbytery
of Deer and synod of Aberdeen. The minister's stipend
is £'319, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 per
annum ; patron, Lord Saltoun. The church, in the
centre of the town, is a substantial structure built in
1S02, and contains 1000 seats ; a tower and spire were
afterwards added, at an expense of £300, raised by sub-
scription. There are places of worship for Independ-
ents, the Free Church, and Episcopalians. The parochial
455
school is attended by 100 children, of whom thirty
are girls; the master has a salary of £29. 18. 10., with
a house and garden, and the fees average about £50
per annum ; he receives also a share of Dick's bequest.
There are some vestiges of ancient religious houses, one
of which, called the College, is said to have been con-
nected with the abbey of Deer ; and at the west end of
the town, are the remains of a spacious quadrangular
building erected in 1592, by Sir Alexander Fraser, who
obtained a charter for the foundation of a college, but
which was not carried into effect. On Kinnaird Head
are the ruins of a tower called the Wine Tower, under
which is a cavern, penetrating for more than 100 feet
into the rock : there are also some ruins of Danish
camps and Pictish houses in the parish.
FRESWICK, a township, in the parish of Canisbay,
county of Caithness ; containing 414 inhabitants. This
place is situated in the eastern part of the parish, where
the coast is washed by the North Sea, and indented by
Freswick bay ; the beach here is composed of sand
and a mixture of sandstone and shells, and at a short
distance southward is the promontory of Freswick point.
The lands are the property of the Sinclair family, who
are proprietors of the greater portion of the parish, and
to whom belongs Freswick House, an ancient mansion,
not inhabited for many years, and now in an almost
ruinous state. The burn of Freswick, which is the chief
stream, pursues an easterly course of a few miles, and
discharges itself into the bay. Here are the ruins of
an edifice called Bucholie Castle, which appears to be
of great antiquity ; and there was formerly a chapel
dedicated to St. Maddan, but scarcely a vestige now
remains.
FREUCHIE, a village, in the parish of Falkland,
district of Cupar, county of Fife, 1| mile (E. S. E.)
from Falkland; containing 713 inhabitants. It lies
near the eastern boundary of the parish, on the road
from Falkland to Pitlessie, and has the small hamlet of
Little Freuchie on the west. The village is of some anti-
quity, and is said to have been in former times a place
of exile for courtiers who had incurred the royal dis-
pleasure ; it suffered much from the depredations of
Rob Roy's garrison at Falkland, in 1716. It is chiefly
inhabited by persons employed in hand-loom weaving.
There is a place of worship for members of the United
Secession; and a small school is supported by subscrip-
tion.
FRIARTON, a village, in the East parish of the
city and county of Perth ; containing 62 inhabitants.
FRIOCKHEIM, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parishes of Kirkden and Inverkeillor, county of
Forfar ; containing 1443 inhabitants, of whom 905
are in the village of Friockheim, 3§ miles (E. by N.)
from Letham, and 7 (N. W. by N.) from Arbroath.
This district is nearly five miles in extent, comprising
about 1694 acres in tillage or pasture, 308 under plan-
tation, and 395 in uncultivated waste ; and is skirted
on the whole of its northern boundary by the Lunan
water, one of the finest trouting-streams in Forfarshire.
The village, which is on the north-eastern limits of the
district, has grown up within the last sixteen or eighteen
years under the auspices of John Andson, Esq., owing
chiefly to the feuing of small lots of ground, and the
rapid increase of the linen manufacture "in the neigh-
bourhood. Upwards of 400 persons are now employed
FULL
FY V I
in flax-spinning, and the manufacture of sheetings,
Osnaburghs, dowlas, and sail-cloth, which are exported
principally to the American market. The houses are
neatly built, and there is a spinning-mill in operation
here. The turnpike-road from Arbroath to Forfar runs
nearly through the centre of the district : the Arbroath
and Forfar railway passes, within three minutes' walk
south of the village, having an intermediate station here ;
and by these means there is a frequent and expeditious
communication. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
presbytery of Arbroath and synod of Angus and Mearns :
the stipend of the minister is £70, derived from seat-
rents and collections, with a manse ; and the patronage
is vested in the male communicants. The church, erected
in 1835, by the presbytery, aided by the Church Exten-
sion Society, is a neat edifice, and, from its recent
enlargement, contains 600 sittings. There is a parochial
school, in which the usual branches of education are
taught, and which is capable of accommodating about
140 scholars ; and a parochial library has been insti-
tuted by the Kirk Session.
FUDAY, an island, in the parish of Barra, county
of Inverness; containing 5 inhabitants. This is a
small and fertile island lying about two miles and a half
northward of Barra, and affords excellent pasture : it
was until lately uninhabited.
FULLARTON, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Dundonald, district of Kyle, county of Ayr,
6| miles (W.) from Kilmarnock ; containing 3103 inha-
bitants. This place, which is situated on the south-
western bank of the river Irvine, derives its name from
its ancient proprietors, the Fullartons, by one of whom
a convent was founded in 1240, on the site of the pre-
sent town, and amply endowed for friars of the Carmelite
order. The establishment continued to flourish till the
Reformation, when it was suppressed ; and while laying
out the lands in allotments for the erection of the town,
vestiges of the ancient building, consisting of the foun-
dations of its walls, were discovered near the mansion-
house of the founder. The town, which forms a popu-
lous suburb to the burgh of Irvine, on the opposite bank
of the river, is well built, and consists chiefly of two
streets, one being in a line with the main street of Irvine,
with which it is connected by a handsome bridge : seve-
ral smaller streets diverge in various directions. Its
situation on the shore of the harbour of Irvine gives to
the place a very interesting appearance, which is much
heightened by the beauty of the surrounding scenery,
and the numerous pleasing villas in the immediate
vicinity.
A public library is supported by subscription ; and
the inhabitants are partly employed in hand-loom weav-
ing for the manufacturers of Ayr and Glasgow, and in
the various handicraft trades connected with the wants
of the neighbourhood. In 1707, William Fullarton,
Esq., the superior, obtained for the inhabitants a charter
erecting the town into a burgh of barony, with the pri-
vilege of two annual fairs ; but, from the proximity of
Irvine, the charter does not appear to have been carried
into effect. The district of Fullarton was separated for
ecclesiastical purposes from the parish, by act of the
General Assembly, in 1838, and, with a part of the
estate of Shewalton, erected into a quoad sacra parish,
since abolished. The church, erected in that year, is a
handsome substantial structure, built by subscription,
456
and containing 900 sittings : the minister, who is
chosen by a committee of subscribers and the male
communicants, has a stipend of £88, derived from the
seat-rents and collections, and guaranteed by bond. A
school in connexion with the Established Church is sup-
ported by the General Assembly, who allow the master
a salary of £15, in addition to the fees; and a school-
house for 300 children has been erected at an expense
of £500, obtained from the trustees of Dr. Bell's be-
quest for educational purposes.
FUNGARTH, a hamlet, in the parish of Caputh,
county of Perth ; containing 76 inhabitants.
FYVIE, a parish, in the district of Turriff, county
of Aberdeen, 7| miles (S. S. W.) from Cuminestown ;
containing 3597 inhabitants. This place, of which the
ancient name, Fyvyn, is of doubtful etymology, is chiefly
distinguished for its castle, of which the original founder
is unknown, but which, in 1296, was visited by Edward I.
of England, in his progress through the kingdom of
Scotland. This castle, which appears to have been of
considerable strength, was in 1395 in the possession of
Sir James Lindesay, during whose absence it was va-
liantly defended by his lady against Robert, son of the
Earl-Marischal Keith, till the return of Sir James,
who compelled the assailants to raise the siege. In
1644, it was held for some time by the Marquess of
Montrose against the army of the Earl of Argyll ; but
the marquess, not thinking it secure from the superior
forces of his adversary, retired to an eminence in the
vicinity, in which he intrenched himself till his retreat
to Strathbogie. From certain records still preserved in
the castle, there seems to have been a town at this place,
which had the liberties of a royal burgh, under Reginald
le Cheyne, in 1250, and subsequently became a burgh
of barony under the Fyvie family, as superiors, but of
which not even the site can now be traced. A charter
is extant, granting to Alexander, third earl of Dunferm-
line, in 16/3, the privilege of a weekly market and three
annual fairs in the manor of Fyvie, and confirming to
him and to his successors all the rights of a free burgh
of barony. Two of these fairs are still held in the
parish, one on Fastern's Even (Shrove Tuesday) ; but
the market-cross, and every other vestige of the burgh,
long since disappeared.
The parish, which is about thirteen miles in extreme
length, and nearly eight miles in extreme breadth, com-
prises an area of 27,034 acres, of which 15,950 are
arable, 2500 meadow and pasture, 1735 woodland and
plantations, and the remainder heathy moorland and
moss. The surface is pleasingly diversified with hills of
moderate height, of which the most conspicuous is that
of Eastertown, towards the south, forming a part of the
Bethelnie range, in the adjoining parish of Meldrum.
The river Ythan, which has its source in the parish of
Forgue, about eleven miles to the west, takes its course
through this parish, which it divides into two nearly
equal parts, and, after enlivening the grounds of Fyvie
Castle, runs eastward, and falls into the sea at New-
burgh, in the parish of Foveran. The soil along the
banks of the river, and in the plain near the castle, is a
rich fertile loam, producing early crops ; in the level
lands it is generally a loam, resting on a substratum of
gravel ; and in the northern part are large tracts of
moor and moss. The crops are, oats, bear, barley,
potatoes, and turnips, with a few tares and peas, and a
F Y V I
G A I 11
little flax. The system of husbandry is improved; the
farm-buildings are substantial, and on the various farms
are not less than eighty threshing-mills, of which forty-
five are driven by water, and the remainder by horses.
The cattle are of the old Aberdeenshire breed, with not
a few of a cross with the Teeswater ; about 5000 head of
cattle are annually reared in the pastures, and 1600
sheep. A considerable number of pigs are reared, and
sent to the London market ; while the produce of the
dairy-farms is also very great. The plantations, which
are extensive and well managed, consist of fir, inter-
spersed with the most usual forest-trees, all of which
are in a thriving condition ; the principal ancient woods
are on the lands of Fyvie Castle, in which are many
trees of stately growth. The chief substrata are whin-
stone and sandstone ; but, from the great dip of the
beds, the quarries are difficult to work, and few blocks
have been raised. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £1 0,224.
Fyvie Castle is an ancient and venerable structure,
built at various periods with a due regard to the pre-
servation of the original style. It is beautifully situated
on the east bank of the Ythan, in a park surrounded
with richly-wooded heights ; and consists of two sides
of a quadrangle, of which that on the south-east, called
the Preston tower, is supposed to have been erected about
the year 1400. In the south wing is the Seton tower,
of which the old iron gate is yet remaining ; and over the
gateway are the armorial bearings of the Seton family,
sculptured on a tablet of freestone. To the south-west
is the Meldrum tower ; and at the northern extremity
of the western wing, is the tower erected by the late
Hon. General Gordon, on the site of the ancient chapel,
which had fallen into ruin. The whole of the castle
and the grounds have been recently much improved.
Rothie House is a handsome modern mansion, built by
the late ownei-, and is situated on an eminence overlook-
ing a pleasing valley, and surrounded by a demesne
which has been laid out with great taste, and embel-
lished with thriving plantations by the present pro-
prietor. Kinbroom House, about a mile to the west of
Rothie, is also a pleasant residence, commanding a fine
view. Gight Castle, a beautifully picturesque ruin, on
the north bank of the Ythan, and now the property of
the Earl of Aberdeen, was anciently the seat of the
Gordons, maternal ancestors of the late Lord Byron.
There is no village properly so called in the parish ;
but near the church are a few neat cottages, to which
gardens are attached, and about a quarter of a mile
distant is a post-office, on the turnpike-road from Aber-
deen to Banff. Fairs are held on the manor of Fyvie,
on Fastern's E'en, in February, for the sale of horses ;
and in July, on the day before Strichen fair, for cattle
and for hiring servants.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Turriff and synod of
Aberdeen. The minister's stipend is £224, with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £17. 10. per annum;
patron, William Gordon, Esq., of Fyvie. The church,
erected in 1S08, is a spacious plain edifice, containing
1 114 sittings : in the churchyard is the burying-place
of the Gordons, of Gight, which was originally within
the ancient church. A chapel, in which a missionary
officiates, has been erected at Millbrex, in the northern
district of the parish, at a cost of £600, towards which
Vol. I. — 457
the Earl of Aberdeen gave £100 and the site for the
building, the Church Extension Committee of the General
Assembly £70, and the remainder was raised by sub-
scription of the parishioners of Fyvie and Monquhitter,
for whose accommodation it was built. It is a neat
structure containing 500 sittings; and the minister has
a stipend of £60, of which £20 are paid from the Royal
Bounty, and the remainder derived from the seat-rents,
with a manse, and a small glebe. There are two epis-
copal chapels, one at Woodhead, and the other at
Meiklefolla ; and the members of the Free Church have
a place of worship. The parochial school is well at-
tended ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house
and garden, and the fees, &c., average £30 per annum.
A priory was founded here by Fergus, Earl of Buchan,
in 1179, and endowed with the lands of Ardlogy and
Leuchendy by Reginald Le Cheyne, in 1285 ; it after-
wards became subordinate to the abbey of Aberbrothock.
The buildings, which were situated on the Ythan, about
a mile below the castle, long since disappeared, with
the exception of some faint vestiges of the chapel, which
may still be traced in a field near the church. There
are also remains of the intrenchments thrown up by the
Marquess of Montrose and the Earl of Argyll during
the civil war.
G
G'AASKER ISLE, in the parish of Harris, county
of Inverness. This is a large, green, but uninhabited
island of the Hebrides, lying about four leagues north-
west from Taransay. The name is derived from the
Gaelic, signifying " the rock of geese," from the circum-
stance of its being frequented by countless numbers of
wild-geese.
GADGIRTH-HOLM, with Bankfoot, a hamlet, in
the parish of Coylton, district of Kyle, county of Ayr ;
containing 77 inhabitants. It is seated on the south
side of the river Ayr, and consists simply of a group of
cottages. Gadgirth House is a plain modern mansion,
of an oblong form, standing on the bank of the Ayr,
and forming the centre of a beautiful and interesting
landscape.
GAIRLOCH, a parish, in the county of Ross and
Cromarty, 60 miles (W. by N.) from Dingwall ; in-
cluding the islands of Horisdale and Longo, the late
quoad sacra district of Poolewe, and part of that of
Shieldag; and containing 4880 inhabitants. This place
takes its name from a salt-water lake called Gairloch,
from the Gaelic word gearr, signifying "short." It is
not remarkable for any important historical events ;
but some antiquities in the parish indicate the settle-
ment and military operations of the Danes, and the
celebrated Loch Maree has an island in its centre, the
tombstones aud hieroglyphical figures on which sup-
port the current tradition that it was the sepulchre of
Danish kings. The parish is forty miles long, and
thirty broad, at its extreme points. It is bounded on
the north by the river Gruinard, by which it is separated
from Lochbroom parish ; on the south by an arm of
the sea ; by a chain of hills on the east ; and on the
west by the Minch, which divides Lewis from the main
land. The general aspect of the surface is hilly ; and
3 N
G A I R
GALA
in some parts the elevations are of unusual height, sup-
plying grand and. romantic scenery. The beautiful
inland water of Loch Maree, eighteen miles long, with
its thickly-wooded islands, twenty-four in number, is
one of the most striking features in the parish, and
has long been the admiration of the traveller-, not only
from its own attractions, but also on account of the
imposing mountain scenery by which it is encompassed.
A lofty range, commencing on each side of it, runs to
a distance of four miles beyond its extremity, presenting
in the group the majestic Slioch, or Sliabhach, towering
3000 feet above the level of the sea. The loch is of the
average breadth of one mile and a half; it is about
sixty fathoms deep, and was never known to freeze.
Among its islands is that of Maree, where St. Maree,
one of St. Columba's followers, resided, and where is a
consecrated well, with a burying-ground supposed by
some to be dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and by others,
as already stated, to have been the sepulchre of Danish
kings. The only river of note is the Ewe, which issues
from Loch Maree, and, after running a mile north-
westward, joins the estuary called Loch Ewe ; it abounds
with salmon of the finest quality, and its fame draws
the lovers of angling, during the season, from all quar-
ters. There are two salt-water lakes, Gairloch and
Loch Ewe, the latter nine or ten miles long. The
climate of the parish, though mild, is very rainy,
occasioned partly by the prevalence of south-west
winds, and partly by the mountainous character of the
country.
Arable land lets only at from 10s. to £1 per acre, and
there is much room for agricultural improvement : the
more respectable families have large sheep-farms, but
the lots of ground of the poorer inhabitants do not
generally exceed one or two acres. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £4810. Towards the sea-coast is
a belt of red sandstone of the old formation, forming
low barren headlands ; to this succeeds, at the head of
Loch Gairloch, micaceous schist, and five miles farther
eastward the sandstone again appears, in mountain
ridges and eminences, some of them 3000 feet high,
characterised by a rude grandeur seldom equalled. At
the head of Loch Maree, quartz succeeds the sandstone ;
and on the estate of Letterewe, near the loch, a century
and a half ago, some veins of iron-ore were wrought
for several years ; but the wood in the neighbourhood,
used for fuel, failing, the labourers were compelled to
give up the work. The ruins of two of the furnaces
employed in the operations are still to be seen. A cattle-
market is held in July, and cattle are also sent to
Beauly ; herrings and cod are forwarded to Glasgow,
wool to Liverpool and Inverness, and salmon to London.
The houses, generally speaking, are of the humblest
description, and the people are employed about equally
between agriculture and fishing : they mostly reside in
irregular hamlets, or clusters of cottages ; and some of
them manufacture a stout woollen-cloth and coarse
stockings, but chiefly for private wear, a small quantity
only of either being sent to market. The mail from
Dingwall to Stornoway runs through the parish twice
a week, but the roads are in bad condition: indeed,
with the exception of ten miles of road in the centre of
the parish, and ten miles leading to the eastern ex-
tremity of Loch Maree, they are little more than foot-
paths. There are four vessels belonging to the several
458
ports, of about thirty-five tons' burthen each. Flower-
dale, an old chateau, in a vale of great beauty, is a seat
of Sir Francis Mackenzie ; around it are some large
forest-trees. The ecclesiastical affairs are governed by
the presbytery of Lochcarron and synod of Glenelg :
the patronage is vested in the Crown. The stipend of
the minister is £217, "with a manse, erected in 1805,
and enlarged in 1S23, and a glebe valued at £15 per
annum. The church, built in 1791, and repaired in
1834, accommodates 385 persons with sittings. There
is a parochial school, in which English, Gaelic, Greek,
Latin, and mathematics are taught, with the ordinary
branches of education ; the master's salary is £30, with
a house, and about £4 fees. Another school is sup-
ported by the Gaelic School Society. The ordinary
language spoken is Gaelic ; and William Ross, a re-
spectable poet, who was born in the parish, and died
here about forty -five years since, wrote in this tongue.
The foundations of one or two small forts can be traced
near the sea-shore ; and at Cairnfield are those of a
large building, supposed by some to have been a Culdee
religious house.
GAIRNEY-B RIDGE, a hamlet, in the parish of
Cleish, county of Kinross, 2| miles (S. by E.) from
Kinross ; containing 50 inhabitants. This village takes
its name from its situation near a bridge over the river
Gairney, a stream which rises among the Cleish hills, and
discharges itself into Loch Leven, half a mile south of
Kinross. There is a Sabbath school, in which are
about 130 children. Michael Bruce once taught a
school here.
GAIRSAY, an island, in the parish of Evie and
Kendall, county of Orkney; containing 71 inha-
bitants. This is an isle of the Orkney group, about
four miles in circuit, and separated by a strait from
Rendall. It consists chiefly of a conical hill of consi-
derable altitude ; the whole of the west side is pretty
steep, but towards the east it is more level and fertile,
and in this quarter, and in the south, the lands are
tolerably well cultivated. Here is a small harbour called
the Mill-Burn, perfectly secured on all sides by the
island itself, and by a holm, which covers the entrance
to the south, leaving a passage on each side of it to the
anchoring ground.
GALASHIELS, a manufacturing town, burgh of
barony, and parish, partly in the district of Melrose,
county of Roxburgh, and partly in the county of Sel-
kirk, 6 miles (N. by E.) from Selkirk, and 32 (S. S. E.)
from Edinburgh; containing 2140 inhabitants, exclu-
sively of 2396 in the parish of Melrose, into which
the town extends. This place, which is of remote
antiquity, derives its name, signifying in the British
lauguage " a full stream," from its situation on the river
Gala, by which, from the rapidity and violence of its
current, the town was formerly subject to frequent and
disastrous inundations. In the reign of David II., the
Scottish army was quartered in the immediate neigh-
bourhood, after the battle of Crichtondean, in which
the English, being taken by surprise, had been defeated,
and compelled to cross the Tweed near the town. About
a mile distant, on the road to Abbotsford, is a tract
formerly a marsh, but now in a state of cultivation,
where, in a skirmish, some of the English forces were
slain, and in which, while draining the land, were found
several implements of war. In 1599, the place was
GALA
GALA
erected into a burgh of barony; and in 1622, from a
report of the lords commissioners, it appears that it
had become of some importance, and contained not less
than 400 inhabitants. The town is pleasantly situated
on the river Gala, which pursues its course in a direc-
tion from north-west to south-east, and is spanned by
four bridges. It is of very pleasing appearance, con-
sisting chiefly of houses built within the last fifty years
in a neat and handsome style ; the streets are well
laid out, and partially lighted, and the inhabitants are
amply supplied with water. A public library, supported
by subscription, has a collection of more than 5000
volumes of general literature ; and there are public
reading and news rooms, well supplied with newspapers ;
also a good circulating library, and libraries attached to
some of the places of worship.
The principal trade carried on here, and to which
the town owes its importance, is the woollen manufac-
ture, which has been gradually brought to a very high
state of perfection : the articles produced are, narrow
fancy cloths of various quality, known in the mar-
ket as "tweeds," -| Saxony-wool tartan, shawls, and
plaids. The narrow cloths vary in price from twenty
to eighty pence per yard, the ^ tartan cloakings from
two to nine shillings per yard, and the shawls, which
are in high esteem for their texture and for the richness
and variety of their colours, from three to thirty shillings
each. There are eleven factories in the town, and a
twelfth is about to be erected ; they are all dependent
on water-power, except two, which have the aid of steam,
and the spindles now number 17,000, and the looms
563, affording together employment to 1400 persons.
The quantity of wool annually used is estimated at fully
] ,000,000 lb., value £80,000, principally from Australasia,
Germany, and other foreign countries, the use of wool
of home growth being nearly superseded : the yearly
value of finished goods is £200,000. The great increase
of the trade of Galashiels may be understood from the
statement of the fact that, seventy years ago, only 722
stone of wool were used by the clothiers, and scarcely
as much more could be manufactured by private per-
sons. In the year 1/90, it appears that 243 packs of
wool, each pack containing twelve stone of twenty-four
lb., were purchased by the manufacturers ; besides
which, they received from different quarters wool, yarn,
and weaved cloth, to a considerable amount, to be dyed
and dressed. At that period, about 250 women were
constantly engaged in spinning wool ; there were also
occasional spinners ; and three machines, having each
thirty or thirty-six spindles, were employed two or
three days in the week : the number of looms was only
forty-three. Hosiery is made to a small extent ; there
are likewise a tannery, two skinneries, several forges for
the manufacture of machinery required for the factories,
and a thriving brewery. Three banks have branches in
the town. The market, held on Monday, was formerly
of considerable note, but has now unaccountably fallen
into disuse, and the fairs are but very indifferently at-
tended. The post-office has a tolerable delivery ; and
facility of communication with the neighbouring towns is
afforded by excellent roads in every direction, of which
the new road from Carlisle passes through the town. Two
bridges have been erected in the parish, over the rivers
Tweed and Ettrick ; there are also a suspension-bridge
upon a highly ingenious principle, and other bridges for
459
foot passengers across the various streams. The burgh
is governed by a bailie, appointed by the chief lord ;
but, though he has the jurisdiction common to burghs
of barony, he holds no courts either for civil or criminal
cases, and the police of the town is managed by con-
stables, who are paid by the two counties in which
Galashiels is situated.
The parish, which includes the old parishes of Gala-
shiels and Lindean, is nearly eight miles in length,
and about three miles in average breadth ; and is
bounded by the rivers Tweed, Ettrick, and Gala, the
first of which also flows through the parish, between
banks richly clothed with wood, and displaying much
beautiful scenery. It comprises more than 10,000 acres,
of which about one-half are arable, 500 woodland and
plantations, and the remainder hill-pasture and waste.
The surface is diversified with hills and narrow winding
glens, and some of the former have a considerable
elevation, the highest being the Meigle, which commands
the town, and is nearly 1500 feet above the level of
the sea : the loftier grounds embrace interesting views
of the adjacent country, enlivened by the rivers. The
Gala was formerly subject to great inundations, but, from
the deepening of its channel, has been rendered less
impetuous in its course, and much less destructive of
the lands than previously. The chief lake within the
parish is Loch Cauldshiels, which is about a mile and a
half in circumference, and of great depth ; it was
adorned on one side, by the late Sir Walter Scott, with
beautiful plantations. A smaller lake, about twelve
acres in extent, was formerly drained in the hope of
finding marl, but afterwards, on the failure of the at-
tempt, suffered to resume its ancient waters ; it has
plenty of eels, but is perfectly destitute of any orna-
mental features. The rivers abound with salmon, and
trout of very large size are frequently found in them ;
the fishery on the Tweed has been recently placed under
more salutary regulations, and at present does not
commence till the middle of February.
The soil is various ; in some places a rich black loam,
in others a stiff retentive clay, and on the banks of the
rivers of a very sandy quality. The crops are, oats,
barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips ; the system of agri-
culture is advanced, and the four and five shift courses
of husbandry are prevalent. The lands have mostly
been well drained, and inclosed partly with stone dykes
and partly with thorn hedges, and bone-dust has been
partially introduced as manure ; the farm-houses and
offices are commodiously arranged, and all the more
recent improvements have been generally adopted.
Great attention is paid to live stock ; the cattle are of
a good kind, and the sheep of the Cheviot and Leices-
tershire breeds. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £9649, including £2215 for the Roxburgh-
shire portion. The plantations are Scotch and spruce
firs, intermixed with larch, oak, ash, elm, beech, and syca-
more ; they are well managed, and in a very thriving
condition. The substrata are, greywacke, clay-slate,
and ironstone, but no quarries have been opened : an
attempt has been made to find coal, but hitherto with-
out success, and nothing more than a black shale, quite
destitute of any bituminous quality, has been disco-
vered. The seats are, Gala House, a handsome man-
sion in a well-planted demesne, ornamented with some
ancient trees of stately growth ; and Faldonside. The
3 N 2
GALL
GALS
parish is in the presbytery of Selkirk and synod of
Merse and Teviotdale, and patronage of Hugh Scott, Esq. ;
the minister's stipend is £211. 11., with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £9,8 per annum. The church, erected
in IS 13, is a good structure in the later English style
of architecture, with a square embattled tower, and is
adapted for a congregation of 1000 persons. There are
places of worship for members of the Free Church, the
United Associate Synod, the Relief Church, Baptists,
and Independents. The parochial school affords a liberal
course of instruction, and is well attended ; the master
has a salary of £34, with £70 fees, a house and garden,
and the privilege of taking boarders. There are also
two schools in the rural districts ; the master of one
has a salary of £S, and of the other £5, in addition
to the fees. A Bible and missionary society is sup-
ported by subscription ; and there is a small but well-
assorted library, in connexion with the Sabbath schools.
A friendly society, which has been established here for
the last twenty years, and a savings' bank, in which
the amount of deposits exceeds £700, have contributed
to reduce the number of claims upon the parochial
funds. Vestiges of two encampments, both supposed
to be of Roman origin, may be traced on the lands of
Faldonside, and also on the estate of Fairnilee ; and
there are still some remains of the ancient Roman road
in the parish. Nothing is left of the church at Lin-
dean, which had been abandoned, on account of extreme
dilapidation, nearly forty years before the two parishes
were united.
GALDRY, a village, in the parish of Balmerino,
district of Cupar, county of Fife, 4 miles (S. W.) from
Newport ; containing 355 inhabitants. In the parish are
two ridges, and nearly in the centre of the southern
ridge is a large extent of high table-land, in which this
village is placed ; it is seated on the road from New-
burgh to Newport.
GALLATOWN, a village, in the parish of Dysart,
district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, 1 mile (N. N. W.)
from Dysart; containing 1198 inhabitants. This village
is supposed to have derived its name from the circum-
stance of the land on which part of it is built having
anciently been a place for the execution of criminals.
It is on the road from Dysart to Falkland, is of consi-
derable extent, and divided into two portions called East
and West Gallatown. The inhabitants were formerly
engaged in the manufacture of nails, which was largely
established here : since the decline of that trade, the
population have found ample employment in the weav-
ing of checks and ticking, in agriculture, and in the
mines and quarries in the neighbourhood.
H(& <£r* GALLOWAY, NEW, a
i^fe^^fe. royal burgh, in the parish of
^Mwri Kelxs, stewartry of Kirk-
cudbright, 19 miles (N. by
^SSfrn!) W.) from Kirkcudbright, and
i^lM 25 (w>) 'rom Dumfries ; con-
, taining 403 inhabitants. This
fflWw place, which is of no very
great antiquity, is situated
on the west bank of the
river Ken, over which is a
handsome bridge of gra-
nite, comprising five arches,
whereof the central arch has a span of ninety feet. The
460
Burgh Seal.
town consists chiefly of one main street, from which
diverge two smaller streets, extending along the roads
from Kirkcudbright to Newton-Stewart and to Dum-
fries. The houses are but of indifferent appearance, and
the inhabitants are mostly occupied in the various handi-
craft trades requisite for the accommodation of the neigh-
bourhood ; there are several shops, and three good inns.
The post-office has a daily delivery ; a branch of the
Edinburgh and Glasgow bank has been established, and
facility of communication is maintained by the turn-
pike-roads, and others which are kept in good repair.
Four fairs of some importance were formerly held here,
and those in April, Midsummer, and at Hallowtide are
still tolerably attended, but chiefly for hiring servants.
The inhabitants received a charter from Charles I. dated
15th January, 1629, by which all the privileges of a
royal burgh were conferred on the town, and the
government was vested in a provost, four bailies, a dean
of guild, a treasurer, and twelve common-councilmen ;
but in 1708, by an act of the Convention of Royal
Burghs, the corporation was made to consist of a pro-
vost, two bailies, a treasurer, and council of fifteen. The
provost and other officers of the burgh are all resi-
dent ; and courts are held by the sheriff and justices of
peace on the first Monday in every month. The town-
hall, attached to which is a gaol for debtors and crimi-
nals, is situated in the main street, and has a steeple
with a clock. The burgh is joined with those of Wig-
ton, Stranraer, and Whithorn, in returning a member
to the imperial parliament ; the constituency, however,
does not exceed seventeen.
GALLOWLAW, a hamlet, in the parish of Pan-
bride, county of Forfar ; containing 79 inhabitants.
It is one of several hamlets, or groups of cottages, in
the parish.
GALSTON, a parish, in the district of Kyle, county
of Ayr, 5 miles (E. by S.) from Kilmarnock ; con-
taining, with the village of Greenholme, 4334 inhabit-
ants. This parish, which is fancifully supposed to have
derived its name from the temporary settlement of a
number of Gauls, is thirteen miles in length, and from
four to five miles broad ; and comprises 14,577 acres, of
which more than one-half are arable, 1000 woodland
and plantations, and the remainder pasture and waste.
It is bounded on the north by the river Irvine ; on the
east by the river Avon, dividing it from the parish of
Avondale, in Lanarkshire ; and on the west by the river
Cessnock, which separates it from the parishes of Ric-
carton and Craigie. The surface is diversified with hills,
of which the chief are Distincthorn and Molmont hill,
the former having an elevation of 1100, and the latter
of 1000, feet above the level of the sea ; the scenery is
pleasingly varied, and in some parts enriched with wood
and flourishing plantations. There were formerly several
lakes in the parish ; but in the agricultural improve-
ments that have taken place, they have been all drained
and brought into cultivation, with the exception of
Loch Gait, which, however, is little more than an incon-
siderable tract of marsh. The soil is various ; in the
higher lands, a loam intermixed with sand, or with a
kind of moss ; and along the banks of the Irvine, a rich
loam : in other parts, a variety of clay is most preva-
lent. The crops are, grain of different kinds, potatoes,
and turnips ; the system of agriculture is advanced, and
much previously unproductive land has been rendered
G A L S
GAM II
fertile by the practice of furrow-draining, which, by the
liberal encouragement afforded by the proprietors, has
been carried on to a very great extent. The dairy-farms
are extensive and well managed, and about '210 tons of
cheese are annually produced ; the cows are usually of
the Ayrshire breed, and considerable numbers of black-
cattle are reared. The sheep are of the black-faced kind,
and much attention is paid to the improvement of live
stock generally. The farm-buildings are substantial
and commodious, and those of more recent erection are
of superior order ; the lands are enclosed, and the fences
well kept up. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £10,44S.
The woods are of oak, elm, ash, and other forest-trees ;
and the plantations, larch and fir, intermixed with oak,
ash, and elm. The substrata are red sandstone, alter-
nated with whinstone, coal, limestone, and ironstone :
the general dip of the strata throughout is north-west.
In the channel of a small burn running into the Ir-
vine, are some beautiful pebbles peculiar to this place,
called Galston pebbles ; and on Molrnont hill are found
numerous nodules of agate and chalcedony. Coal, of
which there are three seams of six feet in thickness,
and one of three feet, and limestone, are both worked,
but not to any great extent beyond what is requisite for
the neighbourhood ; and paving stone and roofing slate
are quarried. There is a large work for the manufac-
ture of draining tiles, on the estate of the Duke of Port-
land, as well as one situated on the lands of Mr.
Brown, for the supply of the different farms ; the clay is
found in abundance, and of good quality. Lanfine is a
handsome mansion surrounded with extensive grounds
and thriving plantations ; Holms, in the ancient Eng-
lish style, is a modern mansion of elegant design ; and
Cessnock, an ancient house belonging to the Duke of
Portland, is an interesting structure. The village is
pleasantly situated, and many of the inhabitants are
engaged in weaving for the manufacturers of Glasgow
and Paisley, and a few have introduced the weaving
of fancy silks. There are four corn-mills, a mill for
flax, a saw-mill, and a paper-mill. Four fairs are held
annually in the village, of which those of any import-
ance are on the third Thursday in April and the
first in December. A penny post has been established
here, which has a daily delivery ; and facility of com-
munication is afforded with Kilmarnock and the neigh-
bouring towns by roads kept in excellent repair, of
which the turnpike-road from Glasgow to London
passes within the limits of the parish.
Galston is in the presbytery of Ayr and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr, and patronage of the Duke of Port-
land ; the minister's stipend is £1J8. 16., with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £15 per annum. The church,
situated in the centre of the village, is a neat and sub-
stantial edifice with a handsome spire, erected in 1S0S,
and is adapted for a congregation of 102S persons.
There is a place of worship for members of the United
Secession ; likewise a Free Church place of worship,
just built. The parochial school is well conducted ; the
master has a salary of £34, with £55 fees, and a house
and garden. There are two other schools, the masters
of which receive an annual payment of £5. 12. from the
heritors. The late Mr. Charles Blair, of Longhouse,
bequeathed £4000 for the foundation and endowment of
a free school in the parish, when the bequest, by the
461
accumulation of interest, should produce £200 per
annum : this has been very lately accomplished, and
the establishment is now in operation. John Brown,
Esq., of Waterhaughs, also bequeathed £1000, the
interest of which is appropriated to the clothing
and education of children of the poor. There are the
remains of a very extensive Roman camp, the ram-
parts of which, though in some places greatly obliter-
ated by the plough, still mark out an area of nearly
300 yards in length, and 120 yards in breadth. On
this spot was found, in 1831, a silver coin with the
legend Ccesar Augustus Dim F. Pater Patrice ; and to the
east, in the parish of Avondale, several others were dis-
covered, with the inscription Divus Antoninus. The vici-
nity of the camp was the scene of an encounter between
William Wallace, who, with fifty of his men, lay con-
cealed here, and Fenwick, an English officer, with a
force of 200, whom he signally defeated. Other coins,
bearing the inscriptions Alexander, David, and Ed-
ward, have also been found. On the bank of the Avon,
and nearly surrounded by the river, are the remains of
some earth-works called Main Castle, most probably
connected with the Roman camp.
GAMRIE, a parish, in the county of Banff, 6£
miles (E.) from Banff; containing, with the burgh of
Macduff and the villages of Crovie and Gardenstown,
4741 inhabitants, of whom 2001 are in the rural dis-
tricts. The name of this place, in the Gaelic language,
has reference to a memorable victory obtained here
over the Danes, by the Thane of Buchan, about the
commencement of the 11th century, in gratitude for
which, and in fulfilment of his vow, he erected the
ancient church in the year 1004, which date maybe seen
over one of its windows. The parish is bounded on the
north by the Moray Frith ; on the east by the burn of
Nethermill, which separates it from the parish of Aber-
dour ; and on the west by the river Doveran, dividing it
from the parish of Banff. It is about ten miles in
length, varying from three to four miles in breadth, and
comprises an area of 21,500 acres, of which 10,000 are
arable, ~50 woodland and plantations, and the re-
mainder, of which perhaps 4000 acres might be brought
into profitable cultivation, rough pasture and waste.
The surface is strikingly diversified with hills, precipi-
tous rocks, and deep glens, most of which are covered
with verdure ; and is interspersed with fertile valleys
and level tracts in good cultivation. The coast, which
is more than ten miles in extent, is bold and rugged,
and girt with an indented ledge of rocks rising precipi-
tously to a height of 600 feet above the level of the
Frith, and perforated with caverns of romantic appear-
ance. The bay of Gamrie, in the east, is formed by two
projecting headlands, of which one is called Gamrie
Head, and the other, and the more prominent, is Troup
Head, near the eastern extremity of the parish ; west-
ward are Melrose Head and the Coley rock, near the
harbour of Macduff, in the bay of Banff. The rocks
on the coast are frequented by multitudes of sea-fowl of
almost every variety, of which the most numerous are
the kittywake, the razor-bill, the guillemot, and the
puffin, each selecting its peculiar ledge for the purpose
of incubation. Haddocks, ling, cod, and herrings, with
various kinds of flat and shell fish, are taken in abun-
dance, yielding annually on an average a return of more
than £13,000. The river Doveran, which abounds with
G A M II
G A R G
salmon, and on which is a fishery belonging to the Earl
of Fife, producing a rent of £"2000, flows along the
border of the parish into the bay of that name : the
burn of Nethermill and the Logie, of which the former
joins the sea at Nethermill, and the latter, after a cir-
cuitous course, falls into the Doveran, are the only
rivulets of importance.
The soil, which is extremely various in different
parts of the parish, has been greatly improved by the
use of lime brought from England, and of bone-dust, as
manure ; and the system of husbandry has been gra-
dually advancing. The chief crops are, oats, barley,
potatoes, and turnips ; bear is raised on some farms,
but wheat, beans, and peas, are very rarely attempted.
Large quantities of grain are annually sent to the
London markets, and barley and bear are sold to the
breweries and distilleries in the adjacent districts. The
cattle, of which considerable numbers are shipped from
the ports in the parish, are generally of the Aberdeen-
shire, with some of the short-horned breed : the sheep,
of which but few comparatively are pastured, are partly
of the Cheviot, and partly of the Leicestershire breed.
The rateable annual value of Gamrie is £8231. There
are some luxuriant belts of natural wood in the western
portion of the parish ; and very extensive plantations
have been formed in the Tore of Troup, which, toge-
ther with those around Troup House, extend over more
than 700 acres, consisting chiefly of beech and Scotch
fir, with larch, the last now becoming more prevalent.
The rocks are principally composed of greywacke, pri-
mary slate, and granite ; and the substrata comprise
red sandstone and conglomerate : the greywacke is
occasionally quarried for building, and the slate was
formerly wrought for roofing, but has been superseded
by that obtained from Foudland and Easdale. Troup
House is a spacious mansion, built in 1772, and com-
manding an extensive view of the sea ; the demesne
is tastefully laid out, and embellished with natural wood
and thriving plantations. It was suffered to fall into
neglect during the minority of the present proprietor,
who built for his residence a picturesque Norwegian
cottage at Torewood. There is a small hamlet called
Longman, commenced by the late Earl of Fife, who
allotted, in small portions, some waste land on the hill
of Longman, on the road from Peterhead to Banff.
Facility of communication is afforded by the turnpike-
road to Banff, and by various other good roads which
intersect the parish ; a messenger delivers letters on
alternate days from Banff and Fraserburgh, and appli-
cation has been made for establishing an office at Dub-
ford, in the parish, where cross roads branch off in all
directions.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Turriff and synod of Aber-
deen. The minister's stipend is £224. 13., with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £10 per annum; patron, the
Crown. The present church, erected in 1830, and situ-
ated in a central part of the parish, is a handsome struc-
ture in the later English style, and contains 1 000 sittings.
A chapel of ease in connexion with the Established
Church was erected and endowed by the late Earl of
Fife, at Macduff, to which a district of the parish was
attached by the presbytery, towards the close of the last
century. The parochial schools of Gamrie and Macduff
are both well attended : the master of each has a salary
462
of £25. 13., with a house and garden, and a portion of
Dick's bequest; the fees of the former average £25,
and of the latter, £50. A school-house, also, has been
erected at Longman by the Earl of Fife. The only
striking remains of antiquity are the ruins of the old
church, built in 1004, and in the thick walls of which
were imbedded the skulls of three Danes who fell in the
battle previously noticed, of which one is preserved in
the museum of the literary institution at Banff. Some
remains of the Danish camp near Gamrie Head, have,
from the slaughter that took place there, obtained the
appellation of Bloody Pits ; and there is also an ancient
ruin on the farm of Pitgair, called Wallace's Castle, but
of which the history is unknown.
GARDENSTOWN, a fishing village, in the parish
of Gamrie, county of Banff, 7 miles (E.) from Banff ;
containing 348 inhabitants. This place, which is situ-
ated on the eastern shore of Gamrie bay, appears to
have been originally built about the year 1720, by Alex-
ander Garden, Esq., of Troup, from whom it takes its
name, and whose descendant is the present proprietor.
The village is neatly built at the head of the bay ; and
the inhabitants are chiefly employed in the fisheries off
this part of the coast. The fish taken here are, cod,
ling, haddocks, whitings, and various kinds of shell-fish,
in which about twenty-five boats are generally engaged j
and during the season, thirty-five boats, having crews
of four men each, are occupied in the herring-fishery.
The harbour, though small, is commodious and easy of
access, affording secure shelter to the boats engaged in
the fisheries ; and there are also three vessels belonging
to the port, of 130 tons' aggregate burthen, employed iu
the export of grain, cattle, and fish, for the London
market, and in the importation of lime, coal, salt, gro-
ceries, and other goods. Facility of communication
with Aberdeen and Banff is maintained by good roads.
There is a small place of worship for Protestant dis-
senters of all denominations, situated in the village, and
recently erected.
GARE LOCH-HEAD, a village, in the parish of Row,
county of Dumbarton, 6 miles (N. N. W.) from Row ;
containing 217 inhabitants. This is a rising village,
situated, as its name imports, at the head of the Gare-
loch, a beautiful branch of the Frith of Clyde ; and
consists chiefly of a collection of cottages. The loch
extends in a northern direction about twelve miles into
Dumbartonshire, forming the east side of the peninsula
of Roseneath, on which is a fine seat of the Duke of
Argyll ; its average breadth is about a mile, and its
greatest depth twenty-three fathoms. The banks are
much less precipitous than those of the neighbouring
Loch Long, which lies on the western side of the penin-
sula ; and southward they become more level, and
some good houses are built on them. At the entrance
of the lake is the fine village and watering-place of
Helensburgh. A chapel in connexion with the Esta-
blishment was built by subscription at Gareloch-Head,
about 1838 ; and there is also a school.
GARGUNNOCK, a parish, in the county of Stir-
ling, 6 miles (W.) from Stirling ; containing 803 inha-
bitants, of whom 319 are in the village. This place,
anciently called Gargownno, is supposed to have derived
its name from the Celtic words Caer-guineach, signifying
" a pointed or conical fortress," a building answering to
this description, called the Peel of Gargunnock, being
G A R G
GARI
situated near the north-eastern extremity of the locality.
The parish is skirted on the south by the Lennox hills,
■which form its boundary in that direction, and on the
north by the river Forth ; it is six miles in length, and
four in breadth, comprising 966S acres, of which 5332
are under cultivation, 3/62 natural pasture, and 574
wood and plantations. The hills rise 1400 feet above
the level of the sea, and command from their summits
one of the most extensive, varied, and beautiful views in
the country; and from them the whole of the lands slope
northwards, terminating in the plain reaching totheForth.
The river is here about sixty feet broad and twelve deep,
and contains large quantities of pike, eels, perch, trout,
and salmon, which two last, however, from the casting of
moss into the stream, are not so numerous as formerly.
In addition to the Forth, with its picturesque meander-
ings, and besides the many springs in the parish, which
afford a constant supply of excellent water, there are
several burns running in various directions, of which
those of Leckie, Gargunnock, and Boquhan abound in
fine trout, and the vicinity of the last is enriched by a
glen of its own name, so beautifully wild and romantic
as to produce a very striking effect on the mind of the
spectator. Cascades are met with in different places,
enlivening the mountain ravines ; and besides almost
every description of wild animals and birds usually
found in the country, the district is remarkable for its
roe-deer, which breed in the glens in great numbers.
The lauds may be portioned into three distinct kinds,
moor, dry-field, and carse, the soils of which vary con-
siderably. The first of the tracts, on which sheep and
black-cattle are pastured in summer, is a wet gravel
and clay ; the dry-field for the most part sandy and
clayey, with a little loam ; and the last-named district a
deep rich clayey earth, resting on a subsoil principally
of blue clay. Below this blue clay, about ten feet from
the surface, is a layer of sea-shells, which is indeed
found throughout the whole strath of Monteath, extend-
ing twenty miles in length and between three and four
in breadth, and is considered a certain indication of this
part of the country having formed, in ancient times, a
part of the bed of the ocean. Afterwards, this extensive
tract was overgrown with wood, called, in the time of
the Romans, the Caledonian forest, and cut down by
that people in the beginning of the third century. On
the dry-field portion, oats, barley, hay, and various
kinds of green crops, constitute the chief produce ; in
addition to which, wheat and beans are grown on the
carse land. The sheep are in general the black-faced,
and Ayrshire cattle and Clydesdale horses are reared ;
many swine, also, are bred, some of which are small,
but others very large. Great attention is paid to hus-
bandry, and the rotation of crops is regularly followed ;
draining has been extensively practised, particularly the
improved method by wedge-drains, to the great advan-
tage of the soil ; and good farm-houses and offices, with
excellent fences, have been raised. Roads have been
also constructed in different directions : and these various
improvements, with numei-ous others, have increased
the price of land within the last forty years to double
its former amount : the rateable annual value of the
parish, indeed, is now £6S56. The rocks in the hills
consist of whinstone ; and those in the dry-land por-
tion, of red and white sandstone, of each of which there
are quarries. Limestone is found in great abundance
463
under the white sandstone ; veins of spar exist near the
hills, and it is confidently asserted that coal might be
obtained on the estate of Gargunnock : peat is plentiful
on parts of the Lennox range, and is sometimes cut,
but the principal fuel in use is coal brought from Ban-
nockburn, nine miles distant. The natural wood com-
prises oak, ash, birch, and willow ; the plantations con-
sist principally of Scotch and silver fir, elm, larch, and
plane.
The most ancient mansion is that of Gargunnock ;
the next is the seat of Boquhan, built about the begin-
ning of the present century, and the barony of which
name was formerly possessed by the Grahams. Leckie
is a more modern structure, in imitation of the old
English baronial residence, surrounded by beautiful
grounds, and commanding a fine view of the strath of
Monteath. Meiklewood was erected very recently by
Colonel Graham, to whom the parish is indebted for a
handsome suspension-bridge, built over the Forth, at
his own cost, about twelve years since, near the line of
the Dumbarton road, and also for a new road, two miles
long, running from the bridge to the great road from
Stirling to Callander, by which excellent means of com-
munication have been opened through a highly interesting
tract of country. The village, which is in the barony
of Gargunnock, stands on a declivity near the church,
and commands a richly-diversified prospect of the sur-
rounding country. The parish is in the presbytery of
Stirling and synod of Perth and Stirling, and in the
patronage of Sir Francis Walker Drummond, Bart. The
minister's stipend is £155, of which about a sixth part
is received from the exchequer, with a manse, and a
glebe of 7 acres, valued at £15. 10. per annum. The
church was built in 1774, and is a plain building with
three galleries, the whole containing 500 sittings. The
members of the Free Church have a place of worship.
The parochial schoolmaster receives a salary of about
£26, and £11 fees. There is a subscription library;
and the parish has two charitable bequests, one of £260,
and the other of £365. A farmers' club was instituted
in 1796, by General Campbell, of Boquhan. At the
burn of Boquhan are two chalybeate springs, which are
considered of great efficacy, though not much frequented.
Keir-hill, the top of which measures about 140 yards in
circumference, was a fortified station in the thirteenth
century ; and the Peel of Gargunnock, situated on an
eminence near the Forth, and surrounded by a rampart
and ditch, once gave protection to the English till they
were dislodged by Sir William Wallace, who occupied
Keir-hill.
GARIOCH, CHAPEL OF, a parish, in the district
of Garioch, county of Aberdeen, 5 miles (N. W.) from
Inverury ; containing 203S inhabitants. This place was
formerly called Logie Durno or Durnock, words signi-
fying " a low or hollow place"; but, upon the annexation
of the parsonage of Fetternear, situated on the north of
the river Don, to that of this parish, on the north side
of the Urie, early in the seventeenth century, the
church of Logie Durno was disused, and a new one built
on the spot where had once been a chapel called Capella
BeatcE Marice Virginis de Garryoch, whence the present
name of the parish. The district is celebrated in his-
tory for the sanguinary battle of Harlaw, which was
fought here on the 24th of July, 1411, between the Earl
of Mar, who commanded the royal army, and Donald,
G A R I
G A R I
Lord of the Isles, and which was fatal to so many of the
nobility and gentry, and of the bravest soldiers in the
country, that Buchanan, the historian, asserts that there
perished in this conflict more illustrious men than had
fallen in foreign warfare during many years. Donald,
having ravaged and plundered other parts, had invited
his Highland followers to seize and pillage Aberdeen,
and was proceeding thither for that purpose, when the
Duke of Albany, who was regent, gave to the Earl of
Mar a commission to collect troops to oppose him. In
consequence of this, he marched from Aberdeen at the
head of a noble train, gathered from different quarters,
and met Donald with a force nearly ten times as large
as his own, at the little village of Harlaw, a short dis-
tance from the confluence of the Water of Urie with
the Don. Here the earl attacked the array of Donald,
10,000 strong, with such vigour that he quickly pene-
trated into the midst of it ; but the Highlanders, mak-
ing up by numbers what they wanted in discipline and
in armour, returned the attacks of the earl and his
veterans with their usual courage and impetuosity, and
a succession of conflicts was carried on through the day
which, while they produced the most dreadful carnage
on both sides, had given, when night ended the slaugh-
ter, victory to neither. The Highland chief retired
from the field ; the earl was compelled to remain till
the morning, through wounds and exhaustion. In the
following century, Queen Mary, in her journey to the
north, previously to the battle of Corrichie, passed a
day here, at Balquhain Castle, the ancient seat of the
Leslies, and is said to have attended mass in the parish
church. Many years afterwards, the unfortunate Mar-
quess of Montrose, when the Covenanters had triumphed,
arrived at the castle of Pitcaple, in the custody of Gene-
rals Leslie and Strachan, who thence conducted their
illustrious captive, seated on a Highland pony, and
ignominiously attired, to the city of Edinburgh, where
he was executed on the 21st of May, 1650. Charles II.,
upon his return from Holland in the same year, was
entertained at this castle, in a very sumptuous manner,
on which occasion a ball took place on the lawn, under
a thorn-tree still standing, and which, for size, is said
to exceed all others in this part of Britain.
The parish, the figure of which is very irregular, is
eleven miles in length, from north to south, and varies
in breadth from two to five miles. It comprises 11,427
acres, of which S342 are under tillage, including twelve
acres of garden and orchard ground; 1010 waste, nearly
900 acres being capable of profitable cultivation ; 110
moss; and 1965 wood and plantations; besides which
there are between 1000 and 2000 acres of waste on the
east front of Benochie hill, which is a common to
this and other parishes. The surface is diversified by
two considerable ridges, the one on the north, and the
other on the south, side of the Urie, and stretching
nearly in the same direction with the stream, the inter-
jacent vale being well defended by the hilly ground on
each side, and watered by the river for about five or
six miles. The Urie is celebrated for its fine trout, and,
at a small distance from the parish, falls into the Don;
the Don is well stocked with salmon, eels, trout, and pike,
and forms about three miles of the southern boundary of
the parish in its passage to the German Ocean, which it
reaches a mile from Aberdeen. The eminence on which
the church stands, south of the Urie, and by which the
464
old turnpike-road from Aberdeen passed, commands, in
one part, an interesting view of local and distant sce-
nery, especially of the Garioch district, the prospect
embracing nine churches.
The parish is entirely agricultural ; and the vale,
interspersed by beautifully-formed knolls, of which that
of Dun-o-deer is most conspicuous, is under good culti-
vation. The crops, comprehending grain of various
kinds, are indeed so heavy that Garioch is frequently
called the granary of Aberdeenshire ; and they are in
general more early in appearance even than those in
some of the southern parts, on account of the richness
of the soil. A fine black loam occurs in many places ;
a good clay in others, on a tilly subsoil ; and near the
rivers, a rich vegetable mould, on gravel. Wheat, which
formerly was grown in but small quantities, is now
more extensively produced ; and all the usual green
crops are raised in abundance. The cattle are chiefly
of two breeds, each of which is a cross breed, and
are much prized by the English graziers, who fatten
large numbers of them for the London market. -The
rotation system of husbandry is practised ; the applica-
tion of bone manure has been found of great service to
the crops of turnips, and the parish has been greatly
improved in various other respects during the present
century, but especially by the inclosures and extensive
drains which have been made, and by the building of
good farm-houses and offices. Much waste land has also
been reclaimed ; and a far larger number of cattle than
formerly are reared for sale, through the advance of
turnip husbandry. The parish contains seven corn-mills,
connected with which are five barley-mills ; another
barley-mill, and a lint-mill ; two mills for carding and
spinning wool, and three saw-mills. The rateable
annual value of Chapel of Garioch is £7335. The
rocks consist of whinstone and granite, the former of
which comprises nearly the whole of the strata to the
north of the Urie, and for two miles south of it ; the
granite runs through the remainder of the district. The
hill of Benochie supplies the stone principally used for
mansion-houses and farm -steadings ; and the granite
obtained from this quarter admits of a fine polish, and
has been employed for chimney-pieces in some of the
best residences. The wood comprehends, for the most
part, larch, and spruce and Scotch fir, and has nearly
all been planted within the present century, with the
exception of several fine old plane, horse-chesnut, beech,
and fir trees, on the lawns of the mansion-houses. The
seats are four in number, and contribute, with their
beautiful grounds and plantations, to heighten in no
small degree the general effect of the scenery. Logie-
Elphinstone is situated upon the north bank of the Urie,
and that of Pitcaple on the other side ; the mansion of
Pittodrie is on an acclivity on the eastern side of the
hill of Benochie, which rises 1400 feet above the sea,
and commands extensive prospects ; and the mansion
of Fetternear, the ancient summer residence of the
bishops of Aberdeen, built in 1329, by Bishop Kinin-
month, stands on the north bank of the Don, and, like
the others, is pleasantly situated. A new road has been
made to Aberdeen, and the marketable produce is gene-
rally sent to that city, being conveyed to Port-Elphin-
stone, six miles distant, and thence transmitted to its
destination by the canal.
Chapel of Garioch is the seat of the presbytery of
G ARM
GART
Garioch, in the synod of Aberdeen, and is in the pa-
tronage of Sir Robert Dalrymple Horn Elphinstone,
Bart. The minister's stipend is £21S, with a manse,
and a glebe of eighteen acres, valued at £16 per annum.
The church is a neat and commodious edifice, built in
1813, and contains S00 sittings. A second church was
opened in June, 1S39, at Blairdaff, in the southern part
of the parish, about four and a half miles from the
mother church ; it contains 500 sittings. It was erected
at a cost of about £500, by subscription, aided by a
grant from the General Assembly's church extension
fund ; the ground for the site and burial-ground was
given by Robert Grant, Esq., of Tillyfour. The accom-
modation is shared by a part of the adjacent parishes of
Oyne and Monymusk, which subscribed to the building,
and, with the portion of this parish attached to the
church, constitute an ecclesiastical district comprehend-
ing 1000 persons. The members of the Free Church
have a place of worship. The parochial school affords
instruction in Greek, Latin, practical mathematics, and
geography, besides the elementary branches ; the master
has a salary of £27 , with a portion of the Dick bequest,
a house, and £-20 fees. There are two other schools,
partially supported by the heritors, in which the ordi-
nary branches are taught. The antiquities within the
limits of the parish comprise the remains of old
tombs and monumental stones of warriors, and a curious
stone, half a mile west from the church, called the
" maiden stone," and marked with several hieroglyphics,
supposed by some to be Danish ; the stone is about ten
feet high above the ground, and reaches, as is thought,
six feet below the surface. The ruins of the churches of
Logie-Durno and Fetternear, with their cemeteries, are
still visible ; and half a mile to the south-east of the
present church, is the ruin of the castle of Balquhain,
the body of which is said to have been burnt down by
the Duke of Cumberland in 17-46. Near the castle is
a Druidical circle in good preservation. Sir Walter
Farquhar, physician to George IV. while Prince Regent,
was the son of the Rev. Robert Farquhar, for many years
minister of the parish. The Earl of Mar takes the title
of Baron Erskine and Garioch from this district.
GARLIESTOWN, a village, in the parish of Sor-
bie, county of Wigton, 7 miles (S. S. E.) from Wigton;
containing 656 inhabitants. This is a considerable mo-
dern sea-port village, founded by John, seventh earl of
Galloway, when Lord Garlies. It is built in the form
of a crescent, and pleasantly situated along the head of
a bay which bears its name and affords safe anchorage
for vessels ; and is an excellent fishing-station. The
shore is flat and sandy ; the depth of water in the
bay, between twenty and thirty feet ; and a large num-
ber of vessels may ride at anchor in safety in the har-
bour, which is open to Liverpool, Whitehaven, and
other places on the western coast of England. About
fifteen vessels belong to the port, of from fifty to 100
tons' burthen each ; and foreign ships occasionally
touch here. In the village is a rope and sailcloth
manufactory. There are two schools, largely endowed
by the Earl and Countess of Galloway, in which a num-
ber of children have gratuitous instruction.
GARMOND, a village, in the parish of Moncuhit-
ter, district of Turriff, county of Aberdeen, half a
mile (N.) from Cuminestown ; containing 226 inhabit-
ants. It is situated in the north-east part of the parish,
Vol. I.— 465
on the road from Cuminestown to Banff, and is a mo-
dern village, having been built subsequently to 1739,
when Cuminestown was commenced.
GARMOUTH, a village, in the parish of Spey-
moutii, county of Elgin, 4 miles (N. by W.) from
Fochabers ; containing 604 inhabitants. This is a burgh
of barony, situated near the mouth of the Spey, on the
road to Fochabers, and is now so united to the village
of Kingston that the two may be regarded as one place.
The houses, generally, are not well built ; but the streets
are regularly laid out, and the appearance of Garmouth
is rather neat and pleasing. The harbour here suffers
under some natural disadvantages : since the flood of
1S29, it has been far from secure, and it is at present
unfit for the entrance of any vessels except those of
small burthen. A considerable trade was formerly car-
ried on in timber, but it has very much declined. There
is, however, a good traffic in the exportation of corn and
the importation of coal, and some excellent vessels are
built ; the place has, besides, the benefit of a valuable
salmon-fishery in the Spey. About twelve vessels be-
long to the port, of the aggregate burthen of nearly 700
tons. The parochial school is here. — See Kingston-Port.
GARTCLOSS, a village, in that part of the parish
of Old Monkland which formed the late quoad sacra
parish of Gartsherrie, Middle ward of the county of
Lanark, 2 miles (N. W.) from Coatbridge ; containing
206 inhabitants. It lies in the north-eastern part of
the parish, near the border of Cadder parish, and in the
neighbourhood of the Gartcloss coal-mine, one of the
most considerable in the district : the inhabitants are
chiefly employed in this mine.
GARTLY, a parish, partly in the county of Banff,
and partly in the district of Strathbogie, county of
Aberdeen, 4 miles (S.) from Huntly ; containing 1037
inhabitants. This parish is divided nearly in the centre,
by the river Bogie, into two portions, of which the one,
called the Barony, is within the county of Banff, and is
said to have been separated from Aberdeenshire by its
proprietor, Barclay, one of the feudal barons of the an-
cient earls of Huntly, who, being at that time sheriff
of Banff, was desirous of having his property under his
own immediate jurisdiction. The other portion of the
parish, called the Braes, is in the county, and within
the controul of the sheriff, of Aberdeen. Few events of
historical importance have occurred with respect to this
place, which is chiefly distinguished for a visit by Mary,
Queen of Scots, who, on her return from an excursion
to Inverness and Ross shire, spent a night at Gartly
Castle, the baronial residence of the Gordon family, of
which, though now in ruins, some small portion is still
remaining. The parish, irregular in form, is about
twelve miles in length, and four miles and a half in
breadth, and comprises about 17,000 acres, of which
5600 are arable, 11,000 pasture, moorland, and moss,
and the remainder, with the exception of a few acres of
natural wood and plantations, roads and waste. The
surface is diversified with hills and valleys, and with
numerous glens of highly picturesque appearance : from
the hills many rivulets descend into the Bogie, which
rises in Auchindoir, and, after winding for fourteen
miles through this parish and that of Rhynie, joins the
Doveran near Huntly, and falls into the sea at Banff.
The eastern and western parts of the parish are espe-
cially hillv, and have extensive moors abounding with
30
G A RT
G ART
grouse and other game ; the hills are covered with moss,
which supplies both Gartly and the town of Huntly
with fuel, and particularly the mosses in the west are of
great depth. The glen of Tylliminnet is richly embel-
lished with a fine wood of birch and several young and
thriving plantations, and is seen among the surrounding
bills with the most romantic effect ; the banks of the
river are planted with alder, but there is little other
wood in the parish. The moors are well adapted to the
growth of timber, and if planted it would tend much to
the improvement of the parish ; a considerable portion,
also, of the moors might, at a moderate outlay, be
brought into a profitable state of cultivation.
The soil, especially in the lower grounds and valleys,
is extremely fertile, producing abundant crops ; and the
system of agriculture is advanced : the five-shift course
of husbandry is generally prevalent, and is found best
adapted to the climate and soil. Since the introduction
of turnip cultivation, the breed of cattle, to which much
attention is paid, has been greatly improved; the prin-
cipal kinds are the old Aberdeenshire, crossed by the
Argyleshire, which is found to answer well. But few
sheep, not more than about 1700, and these chiefly the
black-faced, are pastured on the hills. The substratum
is mostly gravel : limestone is also found, but in so
small quantity, and at such a depth, as to render the
working of it unprofitable to the farmer, who can obtain
it in the neighbouring parish of Cairnie at less expense.
On several of the hills are quarries of slate of good
quality, the working of which affords remunerative em-
ployment to many labourers. Much improvement has
been recently made in draining, and considerable portions
of waste have been reclaimed, particularly on the farm
of Bucharn by Mr. George Gordon, who, in 1828, received
the gold medal from the Highland Society, and who
has also divided and inclosed his lands with stone walls.
The farm-buildings are substantial and commodious ;
and there are tolerable facilities of intercourse with the
neighbouring market-towns by the turnpike-road which
passes through the parish for nearly four miles. The
rateable annual value of Gartly is £4437.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the presbytery of
Strathbogie and synod of Moray. The minister's sti-
pend is £191. 6. 5., with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£16 per annum ; patron, the Duke of Richmond. The
church, an ancient building, was erected in 1621 ; but,
with the exception of the steeple, little of the original
edifice is remainiug : it has undergone many alterations
within the last twenty years, and now affords accom-
modation to nearly 600 persons. The members of the
Free Church have a place of worship. The parochial
school affords a useful education ; the salary of the
master is £32. 10., with £20 fees, and a house and
garden. The parochial library contains more than 200
volumes. Some slight remains exist of Gartly Castle ;
and till lately there were several tumuli on the farm of
Mill Hill, near the church, where, according to tradition,
a skirmish took place in 1411. They have almost all
been levelled : in one of them were found two ancient
dirks, and in another some brass buckles, supposed
to have been used to fasten the sword-belts of the
warriors. On the farm of Faich hill has been dis-
covered an urn containing bones ; and on the lands of
Cockston was recently found an urn of clay, in which
were numerous round pieces of stamped leather, thought
466
to have been anciently current for money. A stone
coffin was found on the lands of Coldran by Captain
Gordon, but nothing is known of its history ; and in a
vault in the church are preserved the ashes of Viscount
Aboyne, and of John Gordon, laird of Rothiemay, with
some of their followers, who were burned in the old
tower of Frendraught, in the parish of Forgue, in 1630.
At Muirellis, James I. is said to have passed an evening
with the tenant of that farm, which he visited incognito,
and to have been so much pleased with the hospitality
of his host, that he obtained from the Earl of Huntly a
grant that he and his descendants should have posses-
sion of the land rent-free. It is also on record, that an
infant son of the Baron of Gartly was drowned by an
inundation of the Bogie, in returning from the chapel of
Brawlinknows, after receiving the rite of baptism.
GARTMORE, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Port of Monteith, county of Perth, 15
miles (W. by S.) from Doune ; containing 347 inhabit-
ants, of whom 253 are in the village. This district is
about two miles and a half in length, and one mile and
a half in breadth, and comprises about 1360 acres, of
which 760 are in tillage and pasture, 200 under plan-
tation, and 400 uncultivated. The surface partakes of
the general mountainous character of the Highland
country of which it forms a part, and the prevailing
scenery is beautifully diversified ; the substratum is red
sandstone. The river Forth flows on the north and
north-east, the Kelty on the south, and the road from
Dumbarton to Stirling passes within four miles. A
market or fair takes place on the 16th of June, at which
cattle of all descriptions are exposed for sale, and ser-
vants for the ensuing year are engaged. Gartmore
House, a substantial and very commodious mansion, is
of considerable antiquity, and stands in grounds taste-
fully embellished, and commanding some interesting
views. The village is pleasantly situated, and has a
rural aspect ; the inhabitants are chiefly employed in
agriculture, and partly in the handicraft trades requisite
for the wants of the district. The ecclesiastical affairs
are under the presbytery of Dunblane and synod of
Perth and Stirling, and the patronage is vested in the
communicants : the church, erected in 1 790, at an ex-
pense of £400, raised by subscription, is a neat plain
edifice, containing 415 sittings. The members of the.
Free Church have a place of worship; and there are
two schools.
GARTSHERRIE, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Old Monkland, county of Lanark ; con-
taining, with the villages of Coatbridge, Coatdyke, Gart-
closs, Merrystone, and Summerlee, 5906 inhabitants, of
whom 1499 are in the village of Gartsherrie, 2 miles
(W.) from Airdrie. This is a considerable mining dis-
trict, in the works connected with which the chief of
the population are employed : the iron-works are of
great magnitude, and include a number of blast-furnaces
for the smelting of the ore. The coal-mine here is also
worked on a very extensive scale ; there are five strata
of coal, between each of which is a stratum of sandstone
and shale : the seams of coal vary in thickness from
one foot four inches to four feet. The Glasgow and
Garnkirk railway, which starts from St. Rollox, in the
north-east quarter of the city, joins the Monkland and
Kirkintilloch railway at this place. The ecclesiastical
affairs are under the presbytery of Hamilton and synod
GARY
GARY
of Glasgow and Ayr, and the patronage is vested in the
subscribers to the church : the stipend of the minister
is £150, secured by bond. The church, erected at a
cost of £3300, is an elegant structure, with a tower
rising to the height of 136 feet, and contains 1500
sittings. Near it is the Academy, erected in 1844, at a
cost of £2300 ; and there is a large Sabbath school in
connexion with the Establishment.
GARTWHINEAN, EASTER and WESTER, ham-
lets, in the parish of Fossoway and Tulliebole, county
of Perth, 2 miles (E.) from Dollar; the one containing
96, and the other 49 inhabitants. These places lie on
the south side of the river Devon, which here separates
the parish from that of Muckart. A rocky pinnacle in
the neighbourhood, called Gibson's Crag, was the ren-
dezvous of the chiefs of the Murrays.
GARVALD and BARA, a parish, in the county of
Haddington, 5 miles (S. E. by E.) from Haddington ;
containing S62 inhabitants, of whom 257 are in the
village. Garvald derives its name, signifying in the
Gaelic language "the rough water," from the situation
of its village on a rapid and impetuous stream, forcing
its way through a channel of rugged fragments of rock,
and which, after floods or continued rains, in the vio-
lence of its course throws out stones of great weight
upon the low grounds. Garvald and Bara were united
in 1702, and service was alternately performed in the
church of each parish till the year 1744, when that of
Bara fell into a state of dilapidation. The parish is
nearly nine miles in length, from east to west, and
almost five in breadth, from north to south ; and is
bounded on the north and east by the parish of Whit-
tingham, on the south by that of Lauder, in Berwick-
shire, and on the west by the parishes of Gifford, Had-
dington, and Morham. The surface is varied, rising in
elevation towards the Lammermoor hills, displaying in
some parts an intermixture of heath and grass, and in
others being richly cultivated and covered with luxu-
riant verdure. The soil, in several places is a deep
loam, resting upon clay, and exceedingly fertile ; and in
others, of a light gravelly nature, well adapted for the
growth of turnips and potatoes, both of which are raised
to a very considerable extent. The chief crops are oats
and barley, with some wheat, potatoes, turnips, beans,
and peas; the system of agriculture is highly improved;
the farms are thoroughly drained and well inclosed, and
much ground that was formerly barren heath has, by a
liberal use of lime, been brought into an excellent state
of cultivation. The higher lands afford fine pasturage
for sheep, of which more than 7000 are annually reared,
chiefly of the black-faced and Cheviot breeds, with an
occasional cross of the Leicestershire, which appears to
answer well ; about 300 black-cattle, also, are annually
fed and fattened for the butcher. The farm-houses and
offices are substantial, and all the recent improvements
in agricultural implements have been generally adopted.
The rateable annual value of Garvald and Bara is
£7571.
Nunraw, a seat in the parish, was anciently a nun-
nery, a cell belonging to the priory of Haddington ; a
great portion of the building has been modernised, but
it still displays many indications of antiquity. Hopes
is an elegant mansion built by the present owner; it is
pleasantly situated in a sequestered glen, near the Lam-
mermoor hills, and in a well-disposed demesne, en-
467
riched with thriving plantations formed by the pro-
prietor, who has also added greatly to the beauty and
interest of the parish by various others on the estate.
The village is neatly built/and has facility of communi-
cation with neighbouring places by good roads kept in
repair by statute labour, and by the turnpike-road from
Dunse to Haddington, which passes for six miles through
the parish. Most of the inhabitants are employed in
weaving, and in the various trades requisite for the
supply of the parish ; and several are engaged in some
freestone quarries situated near the village. The eccle-
siastical affairs are under the superintendence of the
presbytery of Haddington and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale. The stipend of the incumbent is £189 ;
the manse is a comfortable residence, erected in 1820,
and the glebe comprises thirteen and a half acres of land,
valued at £25 per annum : the church is an ancient
structure, repaired and enlarged in 1S29 ; it is adapted
to a congregation of 360 persons, and contains fifty free
sittings, but is inconveniently situated at one extremity
of the parish. The members of the Free Church have a
place of worship. The parochial school affords a useful
education to about sixty children ; the master has a
salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees
average about £16 per annum. There are two friendly
societies, which render much assistance to the poor not
on the parish list. Near the Lammermoor hills are the
ruins of Whiteeastle, a strong ancient fortress, erected
for the defence of a pass from the Merse and from the
English frontier. On the lands of Garvald farm are the
remains of a circular encampment, about 1500 feet in
circumference : there was also a similar camp on the
lands of Carfrae, the stones of which were used to form
an inclosure ; and in removing them for that purpose,
the brass handle of a sword was discovered. At New-
lands are tumuli called respectively the Black and the
Green Castle ; the spot was planted by the Marquess of
Tweeddale, within the last few years, with Scotch firs.
There are also two other encampments, one on Park
farm, and the other on the estate of Hopes.
GARVELLOCH, or Holy Islands, a cluster of
small islands, in the parish of Jura and Colonsay,
district of Islay, county of Argyll. These islands,
which are situated in the Atlantic, to the west of Balna-
huaigh, obtained their second name from having been
the residence of the monks of Iona previously to the
foundation of that monastery ; and there are still some
remains of a chapel and cemetery, and of the ancient
conventual buildings. The isles are the property of
Colin Campbell, Esq., of Jura, to whom they pay a
rental of £150 per annum, derived chiefly from their
excellent pasture for sheep and black-cattle. Here is
also a marble-quarry, which appears to have been
wrought at a very early period, and of which some of
the produce is to be seen in the castle of Inverary.
GARVOCK, a parish, in the county of Kincardine,
2 miles (E. S. E.) from Laurencekirk ; containing 446
inhabitants. This place, of which the name, in the
Gaelic language, is descriptive of the general appearance
of its surface, formed part of the ample possessions of
the Keiths, earls-marischal of Scotland, who occasionally
resorted to it for the diversion of hunting; but since
1715, when the estate was forfeited, the lands have
been divided among several proprietors, of whom the
Earl of Kintore is the principal. Though few traces of
3 02
G A R V
G A S K
its original character are now remaining, it appears to
have been one extensive forest ; and within its limits,
in the reign of James I., was perpetrated the inhuman
murder of Melville, of Glenbervie, sheriff of Mearns,
whom Barclay, laird of Mathers, and others, had trea-
cherously invited to join them on a hunting party.
The parish is rather more than seven miles in length,
and nearly four miles in extreme breadth, comprising
an area of S500 acres, of which 2900 are arable, 100
woodland and plantations, and the remainder, of which
about one-half might be reclaimed, moorland pasture
and waste. The surface in the central portion is a
hollow plain, surrounded by ascending grounds except
on the east ; in other parts it is gently undulated,
rising, towards the south-west, into the hills of Gar-
vock, which have an elevation of 750 feet above the
level of the sea, and command from their summit an
unbounded and richly-diversified prospect. There are
numerous springs of excellent water in various parts,
and at the north-west base of Garvock hill is one
strongly impregnated with chalybeate properties : but
the only river connected with the parish is the Water
of Bervie, which forms a portion of its north-east
boundary, and falls into the sea at Bervie.
The soil is naturally wet, resting on a subsoil of
clay ; on the higher grounds, light and gravelly ; and
in the lowlands, chiefly alluvial deposit. The crops
are, oats, barley, and bear, with potatoes and turnips :
wheat has been raised, and also peas, though not with
any degree of success ; beans, however, have been re-
cently introduced with every prospect of a fair return.
The system of husbandry has been greatly advanced
within the last few years ; considerable tracts of waste
have been reclaimed, and brought into profitable cul-
tivation, by draining and the use of lime ; but the
farm-buildings, with few exceptions, are still of very
inferior order, and the lands are only partially inclosed.
Great attention is paid to the management of the dairy-
farms, and the butter made here obtains a decided pre-
ference in the market. The cattle are generally the
Angus, with a mixture of the Aberdeenshire breed ;
much care is bestowed on their improvement, and large
numbers are sent to London : few sheep are bred. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £3285. There
are some small remains of ancient wood ; and the
plantations, which are chiefly of recent growth, consist
of larch, and spruce and Scotch firs, interspersed with
ash, beech, and plane, all which, with the exception of
the larch and Scotch fir, are in a thriving condition.
The rocks are mostly sandstone, conglomerate, and
trap : a coarse kind of limestone occurs in the hill of
Garvock., though, from the difficulty of access, it is
not wrought; and red sandstone, of good quality for
building, is occasionally quarried.
There is no village, or even hamlet of any importance,
in the parish. A fair was formerly held annually on
the hill of Garvock, on the third Tuesday in July (O. S.),
and continued for three following days, for the sale of
sheep, cattle, merchandise, and for hiring servants ; it
was called St. James' fair, but has recently been re-
moved by the proprietor of the tolls. A messenger
from the post-office of Laurencekirk arrives every
morning, and returns in the afternoon ; and facility of
communication is maintained by good roads, which
have been recently made. The ecclesiastical affairs are
46S
under the superintendence of the presbytery of For-
doun, and synod of Angus and Mearns. The minister's
stipend is £177- Hi 9-, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £20 per annum ; patron, the Crown. The
church is a neat structure erected in 1778, and contains
300 sittings. The parochial school is attended by about
sixty children; the master has a salary of £31, with
a house, and an allowance of £2. 2. for garden, and the
fees average £15. The present minister, the Rev. John
Charles, has assigned £100, the interest to be paid to
the master for the gratuitous instruction of poor chil-
dren. A parochial library, now containing 490 volumes,
was established in 1S35. There are numerous cairns,
and many Druidical remains, in various parts of the
parish ; and on the farm of Nether Tulloch, under three
hillocks, have been found three stone coffins, of which
two contained only some black earth, and the third an
urn and a human skeleton.
GASK, NETHER, or Findogask, a parish, in
the county of Perth, 3 miles (N. W. byN.) from Dun-
ning ; containing, with the village of Clathy, 436 in-
habitants. The name of this place is supposed by some
to be derived from a word in the Gaelic language, sig-
nifying "a slope;" but its etymology is extremely
doubtful. The length of the parish is about two
miles, and the breadth irearly the same ; it contains
about 2560 acres. The ground slopes, on each side,
from the Roman causeway which runs through the
middle of the parish, on the highest ground : the
southern side is a pleasant tract, laid out in cultivated
fields ; on the other slope, towards the north, are plan-
tations of fir, oak, and beech, interspersed with corn-
fields and pastures. The parish is bounded on the north
by Madderty and Methven parishes, on the south by
Dunning, on the east by Tibbermore and Forteviot, and
on the west by Trinity-Gask. The river Earn runs
along the southern boundary, and, though not navigable,
is a considerable stream, the line of whose windings in
this part is about three miles in length ; it contains
salmon, white and yellow trout, perch, flounders, pike,
and eels. The soil, is partly clayey and partly loamy :
in the northern quarter is an extensive moss, a portion
of which has been reclaimed and cultivated, and the
rest supplies the people with peat for fuel. Grain of
all kinds is produced, as well as green crops, the whole
of good quality : more than 1200 acres are underwood,
consisting mainly of larch, Scotch fir, and oak ; and
the woods abound with every description of game. The
modern system of agriculture has been adopted for the
last thirty years, and all the land is cultivated, except
the part under wood : the cattle are the Teeswater and
Ayrshire ; the sheep are the Leicesters, and the com-
mon breed of horses is usually reared. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £3500. The rocks con-
sist" of sandstone and grey slate, both of which are
quarried ; and marl is found in different places.
The mansion of Gask is the residence of the chief
proprietor, whose ancestors for many generations have
resided on the property ; it is a commodious and sub-
stantial building, erected in the beginning of the present
century, and ornamented with many large and beautiful
trees. The turnpike-roads have been improved, and
the parish roads are in a tolerably good state ; the road
from Perth to Stirling intersects the parish. The
ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of
G A S K
GATE
Auchterarder and synod of Perth and Stirling ; patron,
the Crown. The stipend of the minister is £155, with
a manse, built in 1S00, and a glebe of twenty acres,
valued at £15 per annum. The church was erected
also in 1800, and is a plain edifice in good repair,
accommodating nearly 400 persons with sittings, all of
which are free. There is a parochial school, in which
Latin is taught, with all the ordinary branches of edu-
cation ; the master has the maximum salary, with a
house and garden, and about £12 fees. A parochial
library was founded in 1824, and is supported by sub-
scription. The Roman causeway which runs through
the parish is twenty feet broad, and has been macadam-
ized within these few years ; it leads westward to a
camp still visible in the parish of Muthill, and eastward
to another camp in the parish of Scone. By its side
are stations, capable of containing from twelve to twenty
men, and inclosed by ditches, which are very distinct.
Within the policy of Gask, vestiges of two other camps
may be traced, one on the south, and the other on the
north, of the causeway ; and the prretorium of the latter
is yet marked, though the ground has been planted
with fir. One of these camps seems to have been capable
of containing 500 men, and the other, half that number.
The place gives the title of Baron to the ducal family
of Murray.
GASK, TRINITY, a parish, in the county of Perth,
2 miles (N.) from Auchterarder, and 4 (S. E.) from Crieff;
containing 620 inhabitants. This parish derives its
name Gask, of Gaelic origin, from the peculiar nature
of its surface, consisting almost entirely of braes and
undulated ground ; its distinctive prefix, Trinity, arose
from the union of three districts, which constitute the
present parish. It is chiefly situated on the north bank
of the river Earn, and in the picturesque strath to
which that river gives name ; and is about five miles in
length, and three in breadth. The surface is pleasingly
varied, containing but few tracts of level land; and the
scenery is enlivened by the windings of the Earn, which
flows from west to east, displaying much beauty in
the natural wood and thriving plantations with which
its banks are crowned. The soil, greatly differing in
various parts, has, in some, been rendered productive
by draining, and by the construction of embankments
to protect the lower lands from the occasional over-
flowings of the Earn ; and through the improvement
that has taken place in the system of agriculture, a
considerable portion of barren land has been reclaimed
and brought into profitable cultivation. Of the whole
number of acres in the parish, nearly 4300 are arable,
and 1000 in woods and plantations ; and of the re-
mainder, which is chiefly moorland and waste, it is
supposed that about 2000 acres may be rendered arable,
when the measures at present in contemplation for that
purpose shall be completed. The river abounds with
various kinds offish, of which the principal are, salmon,
trout, perch, and pike ; but the quantity of salmon
has greatly diminished since the use of stake-nets has
been introduced in the Tay. The crops are, grain of
all kinds, potatoes, and turnips : bone-dust and lime
are employed as manure, but on account of the expense
of bringing those articles from a great distance, the
quantity is not adequate to the wants of the soil. Great
attention is paid to the rearing of cattle, which are
mostly of the short-horned breed, introduced by Lord
469
Strathallan, and which are found to answer well ; the
sheep, though very limited in numbers, are chiefly of
the Leicestershire breed. The farm-buildings are sub-
stantial, and on all the large farms are threshing-mills,
of which several are driven by water ; there are also
corn-mills in various parts. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £4700.
The oldest of the woods are Scotch fir; and the
plantations of more modern date are principally spruce,
larch, oak, and beech, all of which, under judicious
management, are in a thriving state. The substrata are
chiefly sandstone and whinstone, of which there are
several varieties, and occasionally a gray stone, of great
compactness, containing a portion of copper, but not
sufficient in quantity to repay the cost of working it.
The sandstone and whinstone are quarried for building
purposes, and for the roads ; but the stone is of inferior
quality. Millearne, a seat in the parish, is a spacious
mansion in the later English style, beautifully situated
in grounds laid out with great taste, and forming a
conspicuous feature in the landscape. Colquhalzie is a
handsome mansion, finely seated on the south bank of
the Earn, and commanding some highly interesting
views. Facility of communication with the neighbouring
towns is afforded by good roads ; a ferry-boat plies
across the river, and at Kinkell is a bridge of four
arches, built by subscription in 1793, and kept in ex-
cellent repair. An agricultural society has been esta-
blished in the parish, for the promotion of husbandry
by the distribution of prizes to the successful candi-
dates in ploughing matches. The ecclesiastical affairs
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of
Auchterarder and synod of Perth and Stirling; patron,
the Earl of Kinnoull. The stipend of the incumbent is
£230 ; the manse is a commodious residence, and the
glebe comprises fourteen and a half acres of profitable
land, with about ten acres of wood. The church is
adapted for a congregation of about 350 persons, but
is inconveniently situated. There is a place of worship
for the United Associate Synod. The parochial school
affords a useful education ; the master has a salary of
£34, and the fees average about £12 per annum. The
poor have the interest of a bequest of £80. Some
remains exist of an ancient castle called Gascon Hall,
of which, however, there are no authentic records ; and
a considerable portion of the Roman road leading to
the camp at Ardoch is within the parish. A kistvaen,
containing human bones and ashes, was found a few
years since upon the lands belonging to the Earl of
Kinnoull ; it consisted of four upright stones, with one
lying horizontally on the top.
GASSTOWN, a village^ forming part of the late
quoad sacra parish of St. Mary, in the burgh and
county of Dumfries, and containing 162 inhabitants.
GATEHOUSE OF FLEET, a burgh of barony,
manufacturing town, and port, partly in the parish of
Anwoth, but chiefly in that of Girthon, stewartry of
Kirkcudbright, 7 miles (W.) from Kirkcudbright;
containing 1S32 inhabitants, of whom 419 are in the
parish of Anwoth. This place, which was built on the
site of the ancient town of Fleet, about the middle of the
last century, takes its name from an old tenement, the
only house at that time in existence, and which was situ-
ated at the gate of the avenue leading to Cally. The
mansion of Cally was the family seat of the founder,
GATE
GELS
and is now the residence of his descendant, Alexander
Murray, Esq., of Broughton, M.P. for the stewartry,
who is lord of the manor, and the superior of the
burgh. The town is pleasantly seated on the river
Fleet, near its influx into the bay of that name, and
consists principally of three spacious and well-formed
streets, parallel with each other, and of which the eastern
leads to a handsome stone bridge of two arches, con-
necting it with that portion of the burgh lying on the
opposite bank of the river. The houses are well built
and of good appearance ; the inhabitants are amply sup-
plied with water ; and the immediate vicinity of the
town abounds with pleasingly-diversified and interesting
scenery.
The chief manufacture is that of cotton, introduced
here by the late James Murray, Esq., who for that pur-
pose induced Messrs. Birtwhistle and Sons, from York-
shire, to erect two large mills, which for the last twelve
years have been conducted by their lessees, John
Mc Kie and Company, by whom the business is carried
on with great success. One of these mills was destroyed
by an accidental fire in 1840, but has been rebuilt, and
fitted up with machinery of the most improved kind ;
and both are in full operation, affording employment to
200 persons. The works are driven by two water
wheels of fifty-five horse power, supplied by a tunnel
cut from Loch Whinnyan, at an expense of £1400 ; and
the average quantity of cloth annually made is 60,000
pieces, of twenty-four yards each in length. A brewery
has been established upon a moderate scale. There is a
tannery on the west bank of the river; green hides are
dressed in the town, to the amount of £400 annually ;
and about 60,000 bricks are made in some works a little
to the north. The trade of the port consists chiefly in
the exportation of different cotton goods, leather, and
agricultural produce ; and in the importation of cotton
wool, timber, lime, coal, wine, and groceries. Several
vessels belong to the port, averaging eighty tons' bur-
then ; and in 1840, the number of vessels that entered
inwards was forty-two, of 93 1 tons' aggregate burthen ;
and in the same year, sixteen cleared outwards, of 395
tons.
The harbour, called Boat-Green, about 300 yards
below the bridge, is accessible for vessels of 160 tons,
and has been greatly improved, at a cost of nearly
£3000, by Mr. Murray, who, in 1824, constructed a
canal 1400 yards in length, into which he diverted the
waters of the Fleet, which previously inundated the
lands at every tide. By this work, the navigation from
Fleet bay to'the town has been much facilitated, and a
considerable tract of marshy ground reclaimed. From
two rocks on opposite sides of the canal, a swivel bridge
has been thrown across, which has removed the road
from the demesne of Cally, and affords an easier ap-
proach to the town. A market is held on Saturday, and
is amply supplied with provisions of all kinds ; there are
large markets for cattle, for eight successive weeks,
beginning on the first Friday in November ; and a fair
is held on the 27th June, or Monday after. The town
was erected into a burgh of barony, by royal charter,
in 1795, and is governed by a provost, two bailies, and
four councillors, annually elected by the resident £2
proprietors. The magistrates exercise civil and cri-
minal jurisdiction within the burgh, but only to a small
extent ; there is a prison for the temporary confinement
470
of petty offenders, but it is seldom used. The post-
office has a daily delivery ; and a branch of the Western
Bank of Scotland has been established. Facility of
communication is afforded by good roads kept in re-
pair by statute labour ; and the turnpike-road from
Dumfries to Portpatrick passes through the town.
GATESIDE, a village, in the parish of Beith, dis-
trict of Cunninghame, county of Ayr, lj mile (N. E.
by E.) from Beith ; containing 270 inhabitants. It
lies in the northern part of the parish, on the borders of
Renfrewshire, and a little east of the road from Beith to
Paisley.
GATESIDE, a hamlet, in the parish of Kirkgun-
zeon, stewartry of Kirkcudbright ; containing 23 in-
habitants.
GATESIDE, a village, in the parish of Neilston,
Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, f- of a mile
(N. N. E.) from Neilston; containing 673 inhabitants.
This village has arisen from the establishment of the
cotton manufacture in this part of the parish, soon after
its introduction, and the consequent erection of a spa-
cious mill for spinning and weaving cotton, in 1786. It
is neatly built, and is chiefly inhabited by persons em-
ployed in the cotton-works, and in the printing and
bleaching establishments connected with them.
GATTONSIDE, a village, in the parish and district
of Melrose, county of Roxburgh, 1 mile (N. by W.)
from Melrose ; containing 252 inhabitants. The situa-
tion of this village, in the finest part of the vale of Mel-
rose, is romantically beautiful. It is seated on the
southern slope of a hill on the north bank of the Tweed,
opposite to Melrose, with which town it has been lately
connected by a wire bridge. The houses, which are
generally thatched, are situated amidst orchards and
gardens ; and a greater quantity of fruit is grown here
than in any other portion of the vale. The inhabitants
are partly employed in agriculture, and partly in the
manufactures of Galashiels.
GAVINTON, a village, in the parish of Langton,
county of Berwick, 1^ mile (S. W. by S.) from Dunse ;
containing 206 inhabitants. This village takes its name
from David Gavin, Esq., a former proprietor of the
parish, who, finding the ancient village of Langton an
impediment to the extensive improvements he was mak-
ing on his estate, induced the inhabitants, by a very ad-
vantageous grant of lands, to abandon their old resi-
dence, and build themselves houses on the site of the
present village. It is situated on the south side of a
stream, a tributary to the Blackadder water, and also
south of the high road from Dunse to Lauder. The
parochial school is in the village.
GEILSTONE-BRIDGE, a village, in the parish of
Cardross, county of Dumbarton, 5 a mile (N. N. W.)
from Cardross ; containing 133 inhabitants. It is situ-
ated on the east side of the coast road from Dumbarton
to Helensburgh, and on a stream -which shortly falls
into the Clyde. In the village is a library of more than
400 volumes.
GELSTON, a village, in the parish of Kelton, stew-
artry of Kirkcudbright, 3| miles (S. by E.) from
Castle-Douglas ; containing 146 inhabitants. It lies in
the eastern part of the parish of Kelton, in which it is
now comprehended ; but it was anciently a parish of
itself, and here are the ruins of its church, which fell
into decay previously to 1689, when the union of the
G I FF
GIGH
two parishes and that of Kirkcormack took place. A
small burn, flowing in a northern direction, passes near
the village, and falls into the Carlinwark loch ; and two
others take a south-eastern course, one on each side of
Gelston hill. Gelston Castle was built by the late Sir
William Douglas, Bart., and is remarkable for the ele-
gance of its architecture, and the romantic beauty of its
situation. In the village is one of three parochial
schools. Various antiquities have been discovered in
the neighbourhood : on opening a sepulchral tumulus,
near Gelston, a stone coffin was found, seven feet long
and three wide, which contained human bones of un-
usual length and thickness.
GEORGETOWN, a village, in the Old Church
parish of Dumfries, county of Dumfries ; containing
154 inhabitants.
GIBBIESTOWN, a hamlet, in the parish of Meth-
ven, county of Perth ; containing 26 inhabitants.
GIFFORD, a village, in the parish of Yester, county
of Haddington, 4 miles (S. by E.) from Haddington ;
containing 5'25 inhabitants. This village, which is beau-
tifully situated on the east bank of the Gifford water,
and in the picturesque vale of Yester, is built, chiefly on
lands leased from the Marquess of Tweeddale, and held
by tenure of certain feudal services. In consequence of
agreeing to render these services, the inhabitants were
exempted by the marquess from various taxes and im-
posts, and were endowed with a grant of common land,
comprising sixty acres, valued at £100 per annum, and
the produce of part of which, now under cultivation, is
applied to the improvement of the place. The mar-
quess, as lord of the manor, formerly appointed a baron-
bailie, and held a Birla or Boorlaw court, to which was
attached an officer called a constable, who long retained
his office : this court, which was discontinued only
within the last fifty years, exercised jurisdiction in petty
misdemeanors, and had a prison and stocks for the
confinement and punishment of offenders. The vil-
lage consists principally of two streets of regularly-built
and handsome houses, one of which extends in a line
with the avenue leading to Yester House, the property
of the marquess, and terminates with the parochial
school-house, a handsome building surmounted with a
small cupola : at the extremity of the other street is the
parish church. The inhabitants are employed chiefly
in the various trades requisite for the supply of the
vicinity, and partly in the cultivation of the adjacent
lands. The weaving of linen was formerly carried on
to some extent, affording occupation to more than twenty
persons at their own houses ; but since the introduction
of improved machinery, it has greatly diminished, and
not above three or four persons are little more than
half engaged in that pursuit. A penny post-office has
been established, which has a daily delivery ; and the
East Lothian Agricultural Society hold an annual meet-
ing here, to award premiums for improvements in hus-
bandry, and for the best pens of sheep. Fairs for the
sale of sheep, cattle, and horses, are. held on the last
Tuesday in March, the third in June, and the first in Oc-
tober, which are numerously attended, and at which sel-
dom less than 4000 sheep, 500 head of cattle, and an equal
number of horses, are brought for sale. All the poor
used to receive soup three times in the week, from the
kitchen of the Marquess of Tweeddale, when the family
were residing at Yester House ; and they still derive a
471
supply of fuel from his grounds, whence the wood is, in
winter, driven home to their doors.
GIFFORDTON, a hamlet, in the parish of Col-
lessie, district of Cupar, county of Fife ; containing
71 inhabitants. It is a modern hamlet, the houses in
which are generally well arranged and of neat appear-
ance.
GIGHA and CARA, a parish, in the district of
Cantyre, county of Argyll, 21^ miles (S. by W.)
from Tarbert ; containing 550 inhabitants. Some per-
sons derive the name of the former of these two dis-
tricts from the compound Gaelic term Eilean-Dhia,
signifying " God's island ;" others are of opinion that it
may be traced to the word geodka, "a creek," applied
on account of the numerous inlets and bays here. The
word Cara is supposed to signify " a monastery." The
parish consists of two islands, situated in the Atlantic
Ocean, between the southern portion of the island of
Islay and the peninsula of Cantyre, and separated from
the latter by a channel 3§ miles across, in which the
current is often extremely strong, especially at new and
full moon. They are both but little elevated above the
sea : the highest point in Gigha, called Creag-bhan, or
" the white rock," rises only to the height of 400 feet ;
and Cara, situated a mile and a half south of the former
island, has, in this respect, the same general appearance.
Gigha measures in length, from north to south, almost
seven miles, and is two and a half miles in extreme
breadth ; Cara is nearly a mile in length, aud half a
mile in breadth, and the two isles comprise together
about 4000 acres, of which half are arable, ten under
plantation, and the remainder pasture and waste. The
coast of Gigha is computed at twenty-five miles in
extent, being very circuitous in consequence of the great
number of its creeks ; on the west side it is bold and
rocky, and contains, near the middle, a cave called the
Great Cave, and another named the Pigeons' Cave, from
the many wild-pigeons frequenting it. Though rugged,
however, along the larger part of the western line, there
are, at the two extremities, and on the eastern side,
several bays well adapted for bathing, and containing
a fine white sand, formerly exported in large quantities
to Dumbarton, for the manufacture of glass. In about
the centre of the eastern coast is the bay of Ardminish,
ornamented at its head by the church and manse, and
resorted to by vessels taking away produce, or bringing
to the island coal, lime, and other commodities. A little
north of this is the bay of Drimyeon, a spacious and
secure retreat ; and firm anchorage is also usually-
found in all the other bays in the island, especially in
that of Tarbert, within a mile of its north-eastern
extremity.
Between Gigha and Cara is the small uninhabited
islet of Gigulum ; and between this and Gigha is a sound
affording good anchorage for large shipping, and much
used by government cutters, and by vessels trading
with the northern Highlands, as well as by those from
England and Ireland, which visit this and the adjacent
parish of Killean for the purchase of seed-potatoes.
The principal entrance to the sound is from the east,
rocks lying on the opposite side. The most prominent
headland in the parish, called Ardminish point, is on
the north side of the bay of that name. At the south-
west end of Gigha is Sloc-an-leim, or " the springing
pit," a subterraneous passage 133 feet long, into which
GI G H
GILC
the sea rushes with considerable fury. The shore of
the island of Cara is rocky and steep, except towards
the north-east ; and at its southern extremity is a pre-
cipitous rock, 117 feet high, called the Mull of Cara,
thronged by sea-fowl, and the resort, too, of the hawk.
Around this coast also, as well as that of the other
islands, mackerel, sea-perch, lythe, rock-cod, and many
other fish are found • and cod, ling, and large haddocks
may be obtained on the banks, two or three miles dis-
tant. Some rocky portions of the surface of Gigha are
covered with various species of lichen, of which those
named parmelia, sticta-ramalina, and lecanora are much
esteemed as valuable dyes ; and the juniper, which is
abundant and prolific upon the eastern coast, supplies
in the summer and autumn quantities of berries, here
used in order to flavour whisky. Many tracts are
clothed with stunted heath ; but the surface is in dif-
ferent places pleasingly diversified with knolls and hil-
locks, profusely ornamented with musk roses. On the
coast is found the ulva-latissima, used as a pickle, as
well as the different kinds of Carigean moss.
The soil is a rich loam, containing in some parts an
admixture of sand, clay, and moss ; it is tolerably fer-
tile, and produces good crops of bear, oats, potatoes,
and turnips. The land is particularly adapted to the
growth of the last, but, in consequence of the demand
for seed-potatoes, especially for Ireland, more attention
is paid to the cultivation of these than the turnips. A
small part of the arable land is still under the old sys-
tem of husbandry, the larger property only being sub-
ject to the rotation of crops ; the farms are to some
extent inclosed and subdivided, but the buildings require
further improvement. There is a corn-mill, to which a
new road was lately formed at a cost of £250 ; the mill
itself has been repaired, and among other improvements
that have been found of general advantage is the drain-
ing of the Mill-dam loch, affording an opportunity to
the people to obtain from it turf for fuel. A few sheep
are reared, of the Cheviot breed, and many from other
places are wintered here ; about 1000 hogs, also, are
annually brought, at the close of autumn, from Jura
and other contiguous parts, to be tended at the rate of
2s. 6d. each for five months. The rateable annual
value of Gigha and Cara is £2091. The strata of
the parish comprise mica-slate, felspar-slate, quartz,
and hornblende, with chlorite-slate, crossed in many
places at right angles by basaltic dykes ; and boulders
of hornblende are frequently seen both on, and a little
below, the surface, measuring two and three feet in
diameter. Traces of copper are observable in Gigha,
and of iron-ore at the south end of Cara. The planta-
tions, which are but few, consist of oak, ash, larch,
plane, Scotch fir, and pineaster, the last being less
affected by the sea air and storms than any of the other
kinds.
The population exhibit more of the maritime than of
the agricultural character ; the young men generally
become sailors, and a large proportion of the rest are
engaged in fishing for cod and ling for several months,
beginning about Candlemas. Upwards of twenty boats,
carrying four men each, are engaged in this pursuit ;
they proceed to the banks already referred to, north-
west and south-west of the parish, and usually take as
many fish as enable them, after a plentiful supply for
their own families, to dispose of about fifty tons. These,
4? 2
when cured, are sold at Glasgow, Greenock, and Camp-
belltown, at from £10 to £14 per ton. Besides the
fishing-boats and twenty of smaller size, a vessel of
thirty tons and another of fourteen are employed in
carrying agricultural produce to market ; they convey
annually, on the average, S00 tons of potatoes, 400
quarters of bear, and 150 quarters of oats, besides black-
cattle, horses, sheep, and pigs, and a considerable por-
tion of dairy produce. Coal, lime, and other articles
are imported ; and vessels of large burthen visit the
parish from Ireland, England, and the Clyde, for pota-
toes, and sometimes for cod and ling. A steam-boat,
running between Loch Tarbert and Islay, passes Gigha
three times weekly in summer, and once in winter; there
is also a ferry from each of the properties to Tayinloan,
a hamlet on the Mainland, where is the receiving-house
for letters. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
presbytery of Cantyre and synod of Argyll, and the
patronage belongs to the Duke of Argyll; the minister's
stipend is £266, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£10 per annum. The church was built about the year
17S0, and is in tolerable repair. The parochial school
affords instruction in English and Gaelic, and Latin is
also taught, with all the usual branches ; the master
has a salary of £25. 13., with a house, and about £14 fees.
At the distance of a mile from the present church may
be seen the walls of the former edifice, with a stone
font, standing in the midst of the burial-ground. About
the centre of Gigha is Dun-Cliijie, formerly, as is tradi-
tionally reported, a strong fortification occupied by
Keefie, the King of Lochlin's son, who, it is said, was
killed here by Diarmid, one of the heroes of Fingal.
GIGHA ISLE, in the parish of Barra, county of
Inverness. It is one of the Hebrides, and lies north-
east of Barra island, having Ottervore bay on the west :
the isle is of small extent, and is inhabited.
GIGULUM ISLE, in the parish of Gigha and Cara,
district of Cantyre, county of Argyll. This is a small
uninhabited islet, situated between the islands of Gigha
and Cara ; and in the sound between Gigulum and
Gigha is good anchorage ground for large vessels, as is
more particularly noticed in the article on ths parish, i
GILCOMSTON, a district, and lately an ecclesiastical
parish, in the parish of Old Machar, city, district, and
county of Aberdeen; containing 5194 inhabitants.
This place, which forms part of the northern suburbs
of the city, is pleasantly situated on a gentle acclivity,
and near a rivulet which in its course turns some mills.
The streets are irregularly formed, apparently without
any regard to uniformity of plan ; and the houses "are
generally indifferently built, of mean appearance, and
chiefly inhabited by labourers employed in agriculture
and in the several manufactories in the neighbourhood.
A distillery of whisky was established in 1750, by a
joint stock company, at the mill of Gilcomston ; but,
for want of sufficient encouragement, it was in a few
years discontinued, and a public brewery was subse-
quently established on the premises. To the west of
the town is the celebrated chalybeate called the Well
of Spaw; and the environs abound with picturesque
scenery. The district was separated from the parish of
Old Machar by act of the General Assembly, in 1834,
and was, for a short time, for ecclesiastical purposes, a
parish of itself; it comprised about 600 acres of tole-
rably fertile land, in good cultivation. The church,
G I L M
GIRT
originally a chapel of ease, was erected in 1771, and
enlarged by galleries in 1796; it is a neat structure,
conveniently situated, and contains 1522 sittings. The
minister's stipend is £230, derived solely from the seat-
rents. There are also an episcopal chapel, erected by
subscription in 1812, and containing 386 sittings, and
places of worship for members of the Free Church and
of the Original Secession. Several Sabbath schools
collectively contain nearly 300 children ; and connected
with them is a library of 400 volumes.
GILLS, a township, in the parish of Canisbay,
county of Caithness, 15 miles (N. by W.) from Wick ;
containing 164 inhabitants. It is situated on the shore
of the Pentland Frith, nearly opposite the island of
Stroma, and at the head of Gills bay, into which a
small stream runs, after passing through the village.
The bay is tolerably safe for vessels in moderate
weather, and in this respect is preferable to Duncansbay
and Freswick bay, both in the parish ; but it cannot
be regarded as an eligible place of anchorage at other
times.
GILMERTON, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Liberton, county of Edinburgh ; con-
taining 942 inhabitants, of whom 548 are in the village
of Gilraerton, 4 miles (S. E. by S.) from Edinburgh.
This district comprises about 1 100 acres, the whole in
tillage or pasture, with the exception of some small
plantations around the seats of the principal heritors.
It contains several coal-mines, of which those of Gil-
merton, Drum, and Somerside are the principal : the
Gilmerton mine ceased to be wrought in 1838, but is
now again brought into operation. Iron-ore is known
to exist in considerable quantity, some of it of the best
black-band kind ; and the lime-works here are, per-
haps, among the oldest in the kingdom. Drum House,
a fine mansion, was erected in 1698 by Lord James
Somerville, but has since passed through the hands of
various families ; Gilmerton House, the property of Sir
David Baird, Bart., is also an ancient structure ; and
an elegant residence in the Elizabethan style has lately
been built at Fernieside. The village is situated on the
road from Edinburgh to Carlisle, and colliers and
carters form a large part of its population : in the dis-
trict are the two smaller villages of Edgehead and Tod-
hills. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the presbytery
of Edinburgh and synod of Lothian and Tvveeddale ;
and the patronage is vested in the male communicants.
The church, opened for divine service in April, 1S37, is
a neat structure, seated for 300 persons, and built at
a cost of about £600, raised by subscription aided by
a grant from the General Assembly. The members of
the Free Church also have a place of worship. There
is a school, of which the teacher has a salary contributed
by Sir David Baird and others, and a house and garden ;
and a small library was founded by the late Rev. James
Grant, minister of Liberton. Gilmerton Cave, or, as it is
usually termed, " the Cove," is a curious and extensive
subterraneous passage, consisting of several apartments,
dug out of the solid rock, with forms and tables, simi-
larly wrought, for the convenience of visiters. It was
the work of five years' hard labour of an eccentric in-
dividual, a blacksmith, named Paterson, by whom it
was completed in 1/24 ; and it has since continued to
attract the attention of all strangers. In the cave is
also a well.
Vol. I.— 473
GILMERTON, a village, in the parish of Fowlis
Wester, county of Perth ; containing 203 inhabitants.
This is a modern village of neat appearance, well built,
and pleasantly situated on the high road from Perth to
Crieff.
GILSTON, NEW, a village, in the parish of Largo,
district of St, Andrew's, county of Fife, 4 miles
(N. by E.) from Largo ; containing 229 inhabitants. It
lies in the northern part of the parish, and near its
eastern boundary. In the vicinity of the village is a
singular mass of rum-coal, said to be eighty feet in
thickness, and wrought in open quarry. In this quar-
ter of the parish, also, are considerable plantations,
consisting of oak, ash, beech, elm, and other trees, and
greatly enriching the scenery.
GIRTHON, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirkcud-
bright, 6 miles (N. W.) from Kirkcudbright ; containing,
with the larger part of the burgh of Gatehouse of Fleet,
1S74 inhabitants. This place, which is of great anti-
quity, is supposed to have derived its name, signifying,
in the Celtic language, an inclosure or sanctuary, from
some religious establishment having that privilege, and
which existed at a very early period, at the passage of
the river Fleet. In 1300, Edward I. of England, during
the contested succession to the Scottish throne, resided
for several days at the old town of Fleet, now Gate-
house, and presented an oblation at the altar of Girthon :
after levying some fines from the town, for the mis-
conduct of the inhabitants, who had attempted to oppose
his progress, he retired without further molestation.
The lands anciently belonged to a branch of the family
of the Stewarts, from whom they passed by marriage to
Donald de Levenax, or Lennox, son of the Earl of
Lennox ; and on the death of the seventh lord of Gir-
thon, the estate, together with the family seat of Cally,
was conveyed by his daughter, in marriage, to Richard
Murray, of Broughton, whose descendant, Alexander
Murray, Esq., M.P., is the present proprietor.
The parish, which is bounded on the south and west
by the bay and river of Fleet, is about sixteen miles in
length, and from two to five in breadth, comprising
15,4S0 acres, of which 4000 are arable, 1000 woodland
and plantations, and the remainder heath and waste,
affording tolerable pasture for sheep and cattle. The
surface towards the north and east is mountainous and
bleak ; towards the south, with the exception of some
gentle undulations, pretty level. In the mountainous
district are several lakes, of which the principal are,
Loch Greanoch, about three miles in length, and half a
mile in breadth ; Loch Skerroch, nearly half a mile
square ; Loch Fleet ; and Loch Whinnyan, on the
eastern border of the parish. From Loch Fleet flows
the little water of Fleet ; and this, after a few miles, is
joined by the great water of the same name, together
making the river Fleet, which, after a winding course,
dividing the parish from that of Anwoth, runs into
Fleet bay. In Loch Greanoch are found char in great
abundance, and pike in Loch Skerroch ; a few salmon are
taken in the river Fleet, and flounders in great plenty ;
and near the mouth of the river are two small islands,
where excellent oysters are obtained. These isles are
uninhabited, affording only pasturage for sheep. The
soil is various : the arable lands, which are under good
cultivation, produce favourable crops, and the meadows
are luxuriant. The farm-houses, most of which have
3P
G I R V
G I R V
been rebuilt, are substantial and commodious ; and all
the more recent improvements in husbandry have been
adopted. The cattle, of which about 1200 are annually
reared, are of the Galloway breed; and the sheep,
of which 8000 are fed in the mountain pastures, are
of the small native kind. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £5698.
There are considerable remains of ancient woods at
Castramont and a few other places ; and the planta-
tions of more recent date are in a thriving condition.
The substrata are chiefly clay-slate and granite, of which
latter the rocks are principally composed. A slate-
quarry was some years since in operation, but has been
superseded by the importation of slate from England
and Wales, at a cheaper rate ; and a vein of copper-ore,
which was formerly wrought by a company from Wales,
has been also discontinued. The principal mansion is
Cally, the seat of Mr. Murray, a spacious and elegant
structure of granite, erected in 1/63, and since much
improved; it contains a noble hall of marble, in which
are some handsome pieces of sculpture, and has many
stately apartments, with valuable paintings. The plea-
sure-grounds and gardens are extensive and tastefully
embellished, and in the park are numerous herds of
deer, and some fine specimens of the ancient Caledonian
breed of cattle. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright
and synod of Galloway. The minister's stipend is
£158. 6. 8., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20
per annum ; patron, the Crown. The church, situated
at Gatehouse, is a neat substantial structure, erected in
1818, and contains 714 sittings. The members of the
Free Church have a place of worship. The parochial
school is attended upon the average by ninety chil-
dren : the master has a salary of £45, increased to
that amount by Mr. Murray, with a house and garden ;
and the fees average about £40 per annum. A charity
school is supported by Lady Anne Murray, in which
the children are gratuitously clothed and instructed.
The site of the palace of the bishops of Galloway is still
pointed out here, though there are no vestiges of the
building ; and in the pleasure-grounds of Cally are
the remains of the ancient family seat. There are
several small moats, called " Doons," and also an an-
cient camp, forming one of a line which traverses the
stewartry.
GIRVAN, a busy sea-port,
i^^^W^^W^\%. market-town, and parish, in
^RjRG^^w?/- *ne district of Carrick,
ItQjS) countv of Ayr, 29 miles (N.
N. E.) from Stranraer, and
97 (S. W. by W.) from Edin-
burgh ; containing 8000 in-
habitants. Girvan is sup-
posed to have derived its
' name from the river on which
it is situated, and which,
on account of the rapidity of
its course, was called the
Griffan, from two Celtic words descriptive of its cha-
racter. Few circumstances of historical importance are
connected with the place, and its origin and early history
are not distinctly recorded. The town is beautifully
seated at the mouth of the river, which here discharges
its waters into a spacious bay ; and commands an exten-
474
Burgh Seal.
sive and interesting view of the sea, the rock of Ailsa,
the mull and promontory of Cantyre, the islands of
Sanda, Arran, and Little Cumbray, part of the Isle of
Bute, and the coast of Ireland in the distance. It ap-
pears to have risen into note from the grant of a charter
to Thomas Boyd, of Ballochtoul, which was recited and
confirmed to Sir Archibald Muir, of Thornton, provost
of Edinburgh, in 1696, by William III., who bestowed
on it all the privileges of a burgh of barony ; and from
the advantage of its situation on the coast, and in a
large manufacturing district, it gradually increased in
population and extent, and ultimately became the seat
of trade and manufacturing industry. The number of
inhabitants has been greatly augmented since the intro-
duction of cotton-weaving by the settlement of nume-
rous weavers from Ireland, for whom many small houses
have been built in the town and suburbs. A public
library is maintained by subscription, and two circulat-
ing libraries have been recently established, which are
well supported ; there is also a library belonging to the
agricultural society of the district. Not less than 2000
looms are employed in weaving cotton for the Glasgow
and Paisley manufacturers, who have agents settled
here for conducting that business ; and many of the in-
habitants are engaged in the several trades connected
with the port, and requisite for the supply of the neigh-
bourhood with various articles of merchandise.
The Girvan is frequented by salmon, and a considera-
ble fishery was formerly carried on, under the protection
of the charter, by the proprietors on both sides of the
river ; but it has been greatly diminished by laying down
stake-nets. The bay abounds with white-fish of every
kind, the chief of which are cod, haddock, whiting,
mackerel, soles, flounders, turbot, and lobsters ; but,
notwithstanding, very little attention was paid to this
valuable fishery till of late, when some steps were taken
to render it more available to the trade of the place.
A considerable business is also carried on in the shipping
of grain, of which about 1200 bolls of wheat are sent
off quarterly, on the average •, and the trade of the town
would be much extended by the construction of a rail-
road from the collieries in the district. The harbour,
till recently, was in a totally unimproved condition, ad-
mitting only vessels of very small burthen ; but a quay,
though at present only on a small scale, has been con-
structed, which has much facilitated the exportation of
potatoes and coal ; and when further improvements
have been made, the harbour will be one of the most
commodious on this part of the coast. There are at
present upwards of twenty vessels belonging to Girvan,
of from 100 to 300 tons' burthen ; and ship-build-
ing is carried on with spirit. Branch banks have
been established, and also a post-office : the market,
which is amply supplied with provisions of all kinds,
is regularly held, once a week ; and fairs, to which
black-cattle are brought for sale, are held on the
last Mondays in April and October, chiefly for the hir-
ing of servants. Facility of intercourse with all places
of importance in the district is afforded by excellent
roads, of which that from Glasgow to Portpatrick passes
along the west side of the parish for nearly nine miles;
and there are good inland roads traversing the parish in
all directions. The burgh, under its charter, is governed
by two bailies and a council of twelve burgesses, assisted
by a town-clerk, treasurer, and other officers ; four of
GIRV
GLAD
the council retire annually, but are capable of re-election
by the majority of the burgesses ; and the bailies are an-
nually elected by the council. The other officers of the
corporation are appointed by the magistrates ; the
senior bailie is, by virtue of his office, a member of the
council, and the junior bailie takes the office of senior
magistrate for the ensuing year. The jurisdiction ex-
tends over the whole of the burgh and the barony of
Ballochtoul ; and a bailie's court is held weekly, on
Wednesday, in the towu-hall, for the determination of
civil pleas to the amount of £2, and for the trial of petty
offences, which are generally punished by the imposition
of fines not exceeding £1, and with imprisonment for
non-payment. The average number of civil cases ap-
pears for some years to have been gradually diminishing,
and at present is under fifty. All persons wishing to
carry on trade must enter as freemen, for which a fee of
£2 on admission is paid to the common fund. The
police is under the management of the magistrates ; and
sixty of the inhabitants are annually appointed constables
for the preservation of the peace. The town-hall is a
neat building; and attached to it is a prison for petty
offenders in default of payment of their fines, and for
the temporary confinement of others previously to their
being sent to the gaol of Ayr.
The parish, situated on the coast, is nine miles in
length, and extends about four miles in mean breadth,
though of very irregular form, varying from two to seven
miles. It is bounded on the west for nearly the whole
of its length, by the sea, and comprises about 19,000
acres, of which, with the exception of a small portion of
woodland and plantation, the greater part is arable land
and moorland pasture, and the remainder waste. The
surface, which in no part is very level, is diagonally in-
tersected by a boldly elevated ridge, of which the highest
point is 1200, and the mean height 900, feet above the
level of the sea. The lands are watered by three rivers,
of which the Girvan is the principal ; the Lendal, a
comparatively small stream, falls into the sea at Carleton
bay, and the Assel, after flowing through the parish, falls
into the Stiuchar in the parish of Colmonell. There are
also two lakes ; but, though of great depth, they only
cover a very inconsiderable portion of ground. The
soil is generally fertile, and in the lower lands well
adapted for the growth of wheat ; in the higher parts
the lands are coarse, and comparatively unproductive.
The crops are, wheat, oats, barley, and bear, potatoes,
beans, peas, and many acres of turnips for the sheep ;
the system of husbandry is improved, and draining has
been practised on the lands requiring it, recently to a
great extent. Sea-weed, found in abundance on the
shore, is very generally used as manure, though not alto-
gether to the exclusion of lime : the farm houses and
offices in the parish have been almost all rebuilt within
the last fifty years, and are in general substantial and
commodious ; and some, of more recent erection, are
inferior to none in this part of the country. Great
attention is paid to live stock, though, from a greater
quantity of land having been improved and rendered
arable, the number of cattle pastured has proportionally
diminished. The dairy-farms are well managed ; the
cows are of the Ayrshire breed, and about 500 are kept
on the several farms, and 300 head of young cattle pas-
tured every year. The sheep are chiefly of the larger
black-faced breed, with a few of the Cheviot ; 2200 are
475
annually reared, and about 400 bought in and fed on
turnips for the markets. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £12,845.
There is very little natural wood, and the plantations
are on a limited scale. The substrata are mostly lime-
stone, red freestone, whinstone of a bluish colour, and
graystone in detached masses ; the limestone has been
extensively quarried for the supply of the neighbouring
district. Copper has been found on some of the lands ;
and it is thought that there are abundant veins of ore at
Ardmillan. Indeed, attempts have been made to ascer-
tain the fact, but upon too inefficient a scale to warrant
any just conclusion : what ore was obtained was found
to be of rich quality, and in searching for it several
beautiful specimens of asbestos were discovered. Along
the coast, the rocks are chiefly of the conglomerate
kind ; and huge masses are seen, piled upon each other,
and in some instances so nicely poised on the slender
props which sustain their prodigious weight as to fill
the beholder with fearful apprehensions. The parish is
in the presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ;
patron, the Crown, 'ihe minister's stipend is £269. 12.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £12 per annum.
The church, situated in the centre of the town, and close
to the Glasgow and Portpatrick road, was erected about
the year 1*80, when the population was scarcely a
fourth of the present number ; it is adapted for a con-
gregation of 850 persons, but is altogether inadequate
to the wants of the parishioners. There are places of
worship for Burghers, Wesleyan Methodists, the Free
Church, and Seceders from the Free Church. The paro-
chial school is well conducted ; the master has a salary
of £34, with £50 fees, and an allowance of £20 in lieu
of a house and garden. He also receives the interest of
£1000 bequeathed by Mrs. Crauford, of Ardmillan, for
the education of forty children without fees, of whom
ten are taught church music by the precentor of the
church, to whom she left £12 per annum for that pur-
pose. Another school is supported by subscription, for
teaching children to read the scriptures, and for instruct-
ing them in their catechism. A savings' bank has been
established, and some benevolent societies have con-
tributed to diminish the number of applications for
parochial aid. Vestiges remain of numerous small cir-
cular camps ; and there were formerly many cairns, but
most have been destroyed to furnish materials for
fences : on removing one of these, a stone coffin of thin
slabs was found, and an urn of earthenware, rudely
ornamented, containing ashes.
GLACK, a hamlet, in the parish of Methven, county
of Perth ; containing 36 inhabitants.
GLADSMUIR, a parish, in the county of Hadding-
ton, 3§ miles (E. by N.) from Tranent; containing,
with the villages of Samuelston, Long Niddry, and Pen-
ston, 1699 inhabitants. This place, which was anciently
a wide uncultivated moor, is supposed to have derived
its name from its being the resort of vast numbers of
kites. It formed part of the possessions of Alexander
Baliol, whose brother, John, father of John Baliol,
King of Scotland, founded the college at Oxford called
after his name, and whose son, William, obtained, by
marriage with the daughter of William Wallace, the
lands of Lamington, in the county of Lanark, and,
altering his name to Baillie, founded the family of the
Baillies of Lamington, whose lineal descendant is the
3 P2
GLAD
GLAD
present proprietor. The parish is five miles in length,
extending from the Frith of Forth, on the north, to the
river Tyne, on the south ; it is four miles in breadth,
and comprises 6/31 acres, of which 6386 are arable and
in good cultivation, 302 woodland and plantations,
thirty-four are homesteads, and seven and a half, roads.
The surface rises gradually from the northern and
southern extremities, forming an elevated ridge nearly
in the centre of the parish, on the highest point of
which the church is situated, and along which passes
the great London road. The shore of the Frith, which
bounds the parish for about a mile, is rugged, and inter-
spersed with large masses of detached rocks. The
Tyne, which forms a boundary for something more
than a mile and a half, is but an inconsiderable stream,
scarcely sufficient for turning some mills in its course.
In the lower lands are several copious springs, affording
an abundant supply of water. The scenery is generally
pleasing, and in some parts finely embellished with
rich and flourishing plantations ; and from the higher
grounds are obtained extensive and interesting views of
the surrounding country.
The soil is various ; in some parts a rich loam, in
others loam intermixed with clay, in some light and
sandy, and in others a deep moss : the crops are, bar-
ley, oats, wheat, beans, peas, potatoes, and turnips. The
system of agriculture is in a very advanced condition ;
the lands have been greatly improved by draining, and
by the introduction of bone-dust and guano as manures ;
much waste has been reclaimed, and many tracts of
sterile marsh brought into a highly-cultivated state.
The farm-houses are substantial and well built, and on
most of the farms are threshing-mills, driven by steam ;
the lands are inclosed with hedges of thorn, and ditches,
which are kept in good order. Great attention is paid
to the rearing of live stock : the sheep, of which about
3000 are annually pastured, are chiefly of the Cheviot
breed, with a cross between that and the Leicester-
shire ; the cattle, of which 500 are annually fattened for
the markets, and the milch-cows, are partly of the Ayr-
shire breed. About 220 horses, also, are reared, chiefly for
agricultural purposes. The woods consist of oak, beech,
lime, birch, elm, chesnut, and hazel; and the planta-
tions of Scotch fir, spruce, and larch. The lands are
rich in mineral wealth, and the inhabitants, in addition
to their agricultural pursuits, are extensively employed
in mining. The substrata are principally coal, lime-
stone, and ironstone. The coal is found mostly in the
district of Penston, where it has been worked for some
centuries ; the old mines being almost exhausted, new
ones have been opened in the same field, and every
where coal is found in abundance. The seams vary in
thickness from thirty-two inches to three feet ; steam-
engines have been erected in the new pits, to drain off
the water, and the workings are successfully carried on.
In 1835, a blacksmith residing at the village of Mc
Merry, on the property of St. Germains, in sinking a
well behind his house, discovered a vein of parrot coal,
which was profitably wrought for some time, but has
lately failed. Between Gladsmuir and the village
of Samuelston, the magistrates of Haddington at-
tempted to form a colliery on their own land ; but
after an outlay of more than £2000, they abandoned
the proceedings. Limestone is worked in several parts,
and near Long Niddry is a kiln for burning it into lime ;
476
there are also kilns in other places, but the works are
not carried on to any great extent. Iron-ore is fre-
quently found ; it was wrought for some time on the
lands belonging to the Earl of Wemyss ; and from the
increase in the demand for iron, the works will most
probably be resumed. The rateable annual value of
Gladsmuir is £11,103. Elvingston House, a seat in
the parish, is a handsome mansion, completed in 1840,
and pleasantly situated in a tastefully laid-out demesne,
approached by an avenue of trees about 300 yards in
length. Southfield, the property of the earl, is also a
handsome house, surrounded with plantations, and now
in the occupation of a tenant ; and at Greendykes are
some farm-buildings of very superior character. The
nearest market-town is Haddington, which is the prin-
cipal mart for the agricultural produce, and with which,
and the neighbouring towns, facilities of communication
are afforded by excellent roads : the London road passes
for nearly three miles through the parish, and the
numerous cross-roads are kept in good repair by sta-
tute labour.
The parish consists of the lands of Samuelston, Pen-
ston, Elvingston, and others, which, in the year 1650,
were severed from the parishes of Haddington and
Aberlady, and a church erected at Thrieplaw, which
continued to be the parochial church till 1695, when an-
other edifice was built, and the original one was suffered
to fall into decay. The ecclesiastical affairs are
under the presbytery of Haddington and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale ; alternate patrons, the Crown
and the Earl of Hopetoun. The minister's stipend is
£316. 17-, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £8 per
annum. The church, situated nearly in the centre of
the parish, is a handsome structure, and adapted for
a congregation of about 750 persons. The eminence on
which it is built commands a magnificent prospect em-
bracing the Frith of Forth, with the county of Fife, the
North Berwick and the Traprain hills, the vale of Tyne
and the Lammermoor hills, the distant heights of Dum-
barton and the county of Perth, and a vast variety of
other interesting objects. The parochial school affords
education to nearly 100 children; the master has a
salary of £34, with £32 fees, and a house and garden.
There are also schools at Samuelston and Long Niddry,
the masters of which have a house and garden rent-free,
and the former a salary of £15, paid by Lord Hadding-
ton, and the latter one of £9, in addition to the custo-
mary fees.
In various parts are the foundations of old houses,
leading to an opinion that the parish was once more
populous ; and there are also remains of several ancient
mansions. Of these are, the mansion of Long Niddry,
the seat of a branch of the Douglas family ; the houses
of East and West Adniston, of which scarcely any ves-
tiges are remaining ; and the old mansion-house of
Penston, once of great strength, with arched roofs, but
which has been long a ruin, and its remains converted
into farm-buildings. Some stone coffins have been dis-
covered at Seaton hill, containing many human bones ;
they were generally of red flagstone, about five feet long
and two feet wide, and near them was found an urn
filled with burnt bones. On the lands of Southfield,
some labourers, while making drains, dug up a consi-
derable number of small British coins of silver ; and
several similar coins have been found at Greendykes.
GLAM
GLAM
John Knox, when compelled to leave St. Andrew's, took
refuge at Long Niddry, where he acted as tutor to the
sons of Mr. Douglas ; and during his stay there, he
preached the reformed doctrines in a chapel near the
mansion-house, which still, though in ruins, retains the
name of " Knox's Kirk." There are slight vestiges of
the ancient parochial church which was situated at
Thrieplaw : on the establishment of the coal-works at
that place, the remaining walls were incorporated into
the dwellings of the miners. Near the village of Pen-
ston, also, are the ruins of an old windmill, which, in
the earlier working of the collieries in the neighbour-
hood, was erected for the purpose of drawing off the
water from the pits, which is now much more effectually
done by steam-engines. Dr. Robertson, principal of the
university of Edinburgh, was incumbent of this parish,
where he succeeded his uncle, Andrew Robertson, in
17-14; and during his residence here, he composed the
greater portion of his History of Scotland.
GLAIDNEY, or Glaidney-Cotton, a village, in the
parish and district of Cupar, county of Fife ; containing
195 inhabitants. This village, which is situated near the
southern extremity of the parish, and is connected with
the northern portion of it by a handsome bridge over
the river Eden, is neatly built, and chiefly inhabited by
persons employed in the various manufactures of the
town and parish.
GLAMMIS, a parish, in the county of Forfar ;
containing, with the villages of Arnyfoul, Charleston,
Drumglay, Grasshouses of Thornton, Milton, Newton,
and Thornton, 216" inhabitants, of whom 556 are in
the village of Glammis, 52 miles (N.) from Edinburgh.
This place, of which the name is of uncertain derivation,
is identified with the murder of Malcolm II., which,
according to some writers, is said to have occurred in
the castle of Glammis, at that time a royal residence,
and, according to others, to have happened in a skir-
mish with his assailants in the immediate vicinity, in
which he was mortally wounded. The castle, and the
lands belonging to it, were granted by Robert II. to Sir
John Lyon, ancestor of the Strathmore family, upon
whom, also, he conferred his second daughter in marriage,
and the barony of Kinghorn. On the conviction of Lady
Glammis, who was executed in 1537, for an alleged con-
spiracy against the life of James V., the castle was for-
feited to the crown, and again became a royal residence ;
but on a subsequent discovery of her innocence, the
honours and the estate were restored to her son, Lord
Glammis, whose descendant, the Earl of Strathmore, is
the present proprietor. The parish, which forms part
of the southern portion of the vale of Strathmore, is
situated near the base of the Grampian hills, and is
about ten miles in length, varying from one mile to five
miles in breadth, and comprising an area of 15,000
acres, of which 8000 are arable, 4500 meadow and pas-
ture, 1600 woodland and plantations, and the remainder
roads and waste. The surface towards the north is
generally level, with an elevation of about 260 feet
above the sea ; towards the south, it rises by gentle
undulations to the Sidlaw hills, which are from 1000 to
1 500 feet in height. The principal river is the Dean,
which, issuing from Loch Forfar, at the north-eastern
extremity of the parish, flows in a western direction,
receiving in its course the Ballandarg burn, the Kerbet
water, and the Glammis burn, and falling into the
477
river Isla. Loch Forfar, of which the western extre-
mity is within the parish, was formerly 200 acres in
extent, but has been reduced to nearly one-half by
draining, There are also several springs in the parish,
of which some are slightly chalybeate.
The soil, though much diversified, is generally fer-
tile : on the north side of the river Dean, it is a light
loam, alternated with gravel and sand, and in the hol-
lows are some tracts of moss ; on the south side is a
deep brown loam of great richness, with other kinds.
The system of agriculture is advanced, and the lands
have been improved by large quantities of marl, pro-
cured by the draining of the lake. The cattle, of which
great numbers are reared in the pastures, are partly of
the native Angus breed, and are sent by the Dundee
steamers to the London market, where they obtain a
high price. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£7S01. The plantations, which are extensive, and all
of modern growth, consist of ash, elm, oak, birch, and
larch, with spruce and Scotch firs ; they are under
careful management, and in a thriving state. The chief
substrata are of the old red sandstone formation, whin-
stone, and trap ; and near the Sidlaw hills are some
beds of slate, which have been extensively worked. The
sandstone is quarried for building, and the whinstone
for the roads ; a kind of grit is also formed, of which
mill-stones are made for exportation, and there are
veins of lead-ore, of which those near the village were
formerly wrought. Glammis Castle, the seat of the
Earl of Strathmore, is a venerable structure of great
antiquity, consisting of two quadrangular ranges of
great strength, crowned with turrets and lofty towers,
of which the principal, 100 feet in height, constitutes
the central portion of the mansion. The buildings were
repaired, and partly modernised, under the superintend-
ence of Inigo Jones ; and other restorations and addi-
tions have been subsequently made. In front of the
mansion is a massive pedestal, on which are four lions
rampant, of gigantic size, each holding a dial, facing one
of the cardinal points. The mansion contains a splen-
did collection of paintings, an extensive assortment of
ancient armour, and a valuable museum of natural curi-
osities and antiques. The park in which it is situated
abounds with ornamental timber, and with stately ave-
nues of ancient growth, leading to the house, and of
which one, particularly worthy of notice, is more than
a mile in length.
The village of Glammis, which is nearly in the centre
of the parish, on the great road from Aberdeen to Edin-
burgh, is neatly built. A public library, containing
about ~00 volumes, is supported by subscription ; and a
handsome building, containing two spacious halls, has
been erected by the friendly societies of masons and
gardeners. The manufacture of brown linen, chiefly
Osnaburghs and sheetings, is carried on to a consider-
able extent, for which purpose a mill for spinning flax
was erected on the Glammis burn in 1806; the machi-
nery is driven by a water-wheel of twenty-four-horse
power. The yarn spun at this mill is woven, in seve-
ral of the numerous villages in the parish, into brown
linen, of which about 4000 pieces are annually made for
the Dundee market ; and 7500 pieces are woven by pri-
vate individuals in different parts of the parish, in addi-
tion to what, is made from the yarn spun at the mill.
A circulating library, containing 300 volumes, has been
G L A S
G L A S
opened for the use of the persons employed by the mill-
owner. The post-office has a daily delivery ; and faci-
lity of communication is maintained by the roads from
Aberdeen to Edinburgh and from Kirriemuir to Dundee,
which intersect each other in the village, and by good
roads in various other directions through the parish.
A branch of the Dundee and Newtyle railway was made
from Newtyle to this place in 1835; it is seven and a
half miles in length, and at about a mile from Newtyle
a line diverges from it to Cupar-Angus. Fairs for cat-
tle and sheep are held annually ; the older in May and
November, and those of more recent date in April,
July, and October.
The ecclesiastical aifairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Forfar and synod of Angus
arid Mearns. The minister's stipend is £255. 15., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £16. 10. per annum j
patron, the Earl of Strathmore. The church, erected in
1793, is a neat plain structure with a spire, and con-
tains 950 sittings. The parochial school is attended by
about seventy children; the master has a salary of £34,
with a house, and an allowance of £2. 2. in lieu of
garden, and the fees average £25 per annum. There
were three ancient castles ; one at Cossins, the property
of the Strathmore family ; one in the glen of Ogilvie,
and one in the glen of Denoon ; but they have all been
totally destroyed. Within a short distance of the
church is an obelisk of rude design, raised to comme-
morate the murder of Malcolm : on one side are sculp-
tured the figures of two men, above which are a lion
and a centaur ; and on the other are several sorts of
fishes, supposed to have allusion to the loch of Forfar,
in which the assassins were drowned while making their
retreat from the castle. In a wood not far from the
village of Thornton is a large cairn, on which is also an
obelisk, similar to the former, and named King Mal-
colm's Gravestone. Near Cossins is a third obelisk,
called St. Orland's Stone, on one side of which is a
cross fleuri, and on the other the figures of four men
on horseback, in full speed, one of whom is trampling
under his horse's feet a wild boar ; and near the base
of the obelisk is the figure of a dragon. This place
gives the title of Baron Glammis to the Earl of
Strathmore, that dignity having been conferred on
Patrick Lyon in 1445.
GLASFORD, county of Lanark. — See Glassford.
MtSMm* GLASGOW, a city,
the seat of a university, and
a sea-port, having separate
jurisdiction, locally in the
Lower ward of the county
of Lanark, and situated in
longitude 4° 15' 51" (W.),
and latitude 55° 52' 10" (N.),
23 miles (E. by S.) from
Greenock, 29 (S. W. by S.)
from Stirling, 34 (N. E. by N.)
from Ayr, 43 (W. byS.) from
Edinburgh, 79 (N. N. W.)
from Dumfries, 144 (S. W.) from Aberdeen, 196 (N. N. E.)
from Dublin, 213 (N. W. by N.) from Manchester, and
396 (N. W. by N.) from London; containing 120,183,
and, with the suburbs of Barony and Gorbals, 274,533
inhabitants. The following is a list of the subjects
478
comprised in the article, with the page in which each
head or division occurs : —
Seal and Arms.
Eavly History 478
Events of the 15th Century 479
Of the Ifith 479
Of the 17lh 480
And of the 18th and ]9th
Centuries 481
General Description of the
City 483
Lighting, Supply of Water,
&c 484
Libraries 485
Literary and Scientific In-
stitutions 485
Places of Amusement .... 480
Trade and Commerce: ori-
gin and progress of the
various kinds of Manufac-
ture 486
Business of the Port: Ship-
ping, Customs, Harbour,
&c 487
Steam Navigation 488
Forth and Clyde, Monkland,
and Johnstone Canals . . 488
Edinburgh, Garnkirk, Ayr,
and Greenock Railways.. 489
Public Buildings connected
with Trade: the Ex-
change 489
Corn Exchange and other
Markets 490
Municipal Affairs , 491
Public Buildings connected
with Municipal Affairs.. 491
Merchants' House, Trades'
House. Prisons ...... . . 492
Origin and progress of the
University 492
Its Government ; Professors,
Bursaries, &c 493
Buildings of the University 494
The Andersonian Institution 494
Ecclesiastical Affairs:
Parishes, Churches, &c.... 494
The Cathedral 494
Parishes in the City 495
Former Quoad Sacra Pa-
rishes 496
Barony Parish 496
Necropolis 496
Schools and Benevolent In-
stitutions 497
The High School 497
The Royal Infirmary 497
Lunatic Asylum, Magda-
len Asylum, Lock Hos-
pital, and St. Nicholas'
Hospital 497
Hutcheson's Hospital .... 498
Charitable Societies, and Be-
quests 498
The Town Hospital 498
Historical Account.
This place, which appears to have been a Roman
station within the wall of Antoninus, and to have
formed part of the province of Valentia, is conjectured by
some authorities to derive its name, originally Glas-
Achadh, said by them to denote in the Gaelic language,
" a green field," from a verdant piece of ground on
the bank of the Clyde, by which it is bounded on the
south. According to others, the term signifies " a dark
glen," and arose from a secluded retreat occupied by
St. Kentigern, son of Thametes, daughter of Loth,
King of the Ficts, who was born at Culross about the
year 516. St. Kentigern was educated under the care
of St. Servanus, Bishop of Orkney, by whom he was
generally addressed in the Norwegian term, Mon Gha,
an epithet of affectionate endearment, from which appel-
lation he has been also designated as St. Mungo. On
the death of Servanus, Kentigern, who had become
celebrated for his sanctity, retired into Wales, where
he founded a monastery which he afterwards resigned
to St. Asaph ; and, returning into Scotland, he fixed
his abode in a narrow glen near the site of the present
cathedral. Here, after living for some time in a solitary
cell, he, in 560, laid the foundation of a stately church,
which was amply endowed by Ryderick, or Roderick,
King of the Scots, who founded the see of Glasgow, of
which he made Kentigern the first bishop. St. Ken-
tigern died in 610, and was buried in the church he
had founded, where his monument is still preserved.
He was succeeded in the diocese by his disciple, Bald-
red, who had instituted a religious house at Inchinnan ;
and after Baldred's decease, the see became succes-
sively a prey to the Picts, Scots, Saxons, Britons, and
Danes, by whom it was eventually so reduced that little
GLAS
G L A S
is known of its subsequent history for a period of
nearly 500 years. In 111 5, the establishment was re-
founded by David, Prince of Cumberland, who appointed
his tutor and chaplain, John Achaius, bishop of the
diocese ; and on his accession to the throne, by the
title of David I., he richly endowed the see, and made
the bishop chancellor of the kingdom. This office, how-
ever, the bishop soon afterwards resigned, devoting
his attention solely to the duties of his diocese ; he
rebuilt part of the cathedral in 1136, and the edifice
was consecrated in the presence of the king, who, on
the occasion, assigned to it the lands now called Par-
tick. In 1180, Josceline, who had succeeded John
Achaius, materially enlarged and beautified the cathe-
dral, and obtained from William the Lion a charter,
erecting the town which had risen up under the auspices
of the prelates into a free burgh, and granting an
annual fair for eight days. Consequently, the place
appears to have been, in 1268, governed by a provost
and bailie, appointed by the bishop, and who had the
power to hold courts of justice, and enjoyed various
other privileges.
In 1300, Edward I. of England, having possessed
himself of all the fortresses in the country, appointed
Anthony Beck to the see of Glasgow ; and his general,
Earl Percy, who had usurped the military government
of the western district of Scotland, seized the episcopal
palace. Upon this, the town became the scene of a
sanguinary conflict between the troops of Edward and
the Scots under Sir William Wallace, who, assisted
by his relative, Adam Wallace, of Richardtown, the
laird of Auchinleck, and a few of his trusty adherents,
marched from Ayr during the night, and, arriving the
following morning at the bridge of Glasgow, crossed the
river, and drew up his forces on the spot where Bridge-
gate now stands. Forming his men into two divisions,
one, led by Wallace, marched directly up the High-
street to meet Percy's troops, consisting of 1000 men,
and the other division, led by the laird of Auchinleck,
took a circuitous route by Drygate. The action com-
menced between Wallace's party and the earl, near the
site of the present college, and was continued for a
time with resolute valour on both sides ; but, while the
victory was still doubtful, the division under Auchinleck,
attacking the English in the rear, put them completely
to the rout. Percy was killed by Wallace, who, not
thinking his victory decisive, or deeming it unsafe to
remain in his present situation, advanced to Bothwell,
and, assailing a large body of Northumbrians, gained a
second victory over superior numbers. In the years
1350, 1380, and 1381, the plague committed great
ravages in the town : and in 13S7, during the prelacy
of Bishop Glendoning, the spire of the cathedral was
destroyed by lightning. A mint was established in
Drygate-street in the time of Stuart, Earl of Carrick,
afterwards Robert III. ; and coins were struck, having
on the obverse the king's crest and crown, without
the sceptre, with the legend " Robertus, Dei Gratia Rex
Scotorum," and on the reverse, " Dominus Protector"
around the outer circle, and in an inner circle " Villa
de Glasgow." In 1431, Isabella, cousin to James I., de-
vised the lands of Ballagan to the convent of the Grey
Friars at Glasgow, for the salvation of her soul, and of
those of her husband, the Duke of Albany ; her father ;
and three sons.
479
From 1450 to 1570.
In 1450, Bishop Turnbull obtained from James II.
a charter erecting Glasgow into a regality, and from
Pope Nicholas V. a bull for the foundation of a univer-
sity, which he amply endowed. This establishment
tended greatly to the increase and prosperity of the
town, which, prior to that event, had scarcely a popu-
lation of 1500 persons; but the privileges granted to
the new institution deprived the citizens, to a consider-
able extent, of their political independence. The bishops,
also, a long time exercised the right of appointing the
provost and bailies of the regality ; but it eventually
became vested in the Lennox family, who ultimately
resigned their power to the crown, and after 1621 the
election was vested in the magistrates and council of
the town. At this time, the inhabitants resided chiefly
in the vicinity of the cathedral, and in that part of the
High-street which was bounded by the episcopal palace.
After the foundation of St. Nicholas' hospital and the
establishment of the university, however, the city began
gradually to extend to the present Cross, and eastward
in the direction of the Gallowgate. In 1484, the citi-
zens erected a collegiate church dedicated to the Blessed
Virgin, in a right line westward from the Gallowgate,
and the buildings consequently stretched towards that
edifice, now the Tron church : the inhabitants being
then chiefly employed in the fishery of the Clyde, a
street was also formed, leading to the river, and which
was called Fishergate, and is now Bridgegate-street.
By act of parliament, in 1488, the diocese of Glasgow-
was erected into a metropolitan see, of which Robert
Blacadder became archbishop ; and the temporalities
and privileges of the archdiocese were confirmed by
charter of James VI. After the martyrdom of Hamilton,
abbot of Ferme, who had imbibed the doctrines of the
reformed religion, and who was burnt at St. Andrews
in 153S, it was thought expedient, for the suppression
of heresy, to make a public example in the city of
Glasgow ; and as the then archbishop, Dunbar, was a man
of extreme benevolence and an enemy to persecution,
some friars were sent from St. Andrew's for the purpose.
On this occasion, Jeremiah Russell, of the Grey Friars,
at Glasgow, and a young gentleman of Ayr, not more
than eighteen years of age, were condemned to be
burnt at the stake ; and the sentence, notwithstanding
the remonstrances of the bishop, was soon afterwards
executed. On the death of James V., his daughter,
Mary, Queen of Scots, embarked for France; and
Cardinal Beaton, Archbishop of St. Andrew's, being
appointed regent, subsequently resigned that post to the
Earl of Arran, afterwards Duke of Chatelherault ; but
the earl became so unpopular that the queen dowager
and the cardinal invited the Earl of Lennox, then in
France, to come over, and take upon himself the office.
Arran, however, compromising his difference with the
queen and Beaton, was allowed nominally to retain the
regency, leaving the chief administration to the cardinal.
Lennox, exasperated by this insult, raised an army of
10,000 men, and, marching from Glasgow to Leith,
offered the cardinal battle ; but the latter, unprepared
to encounter so formidable a force, negotiated for a
truce, and the earl returned to Glasgow, and, placing
a garrison in the bishop's castle, proceeded to Dum-
barton to hold a conference. The regent, having mus-
G L A S
G L A S
tered an army in the mean time, stormed the castle,
and, after compelling the garrison to surrender upon
terms, put every man to the sword. Upon this, Lennox,
resolved on making a desperate effort to displace Arran,
and obtain the regency, in which he was assisted by
the Earl of Glencairn, attempted to march to Clydesdale
to give his opponents battle ; and the regent, to pre-
vent this movement, endeavoured to take possession
of Glasgow ; but Glencairn, with about 800 of his
vassals, aided by the citizens, attacked the troops of
the regent at a place called the Butts, and achieved a
partial success, becoming master of the artillery of his
adversaries. Just on the eve of victory, however, a
small party of horse under Robert Boyd coming to the
succour of the regent, Glencairn, apprehending that a
greater force was in reserve, fled with the utmost pre-
cipitation ; and Arran, entering the city, abandoned it
to the mercy of his soldiers, by whom it was plundered
and nearly destroyed. In this engagement two gallant
sons of the Earl of Glencairn were slain.
Henry, Lord Darnley, the husband of Mary, Queen
of Scots, after the celebration of the birth of a son, in
1566, arrived from Stirling on a visit to his father, who
resided at Limmerfield, near the Barony church, Glas-
gow, where being taken ill, the queen came from Stirling,
and remained with him till he was sufficiently recovered
to be removed to Edinburgh. In 1568, the queen, who
had been kept prisoner in the castle of Lochleven,
effecting her escape, was joined by the Earls of Argyll,
Eglinton, Cassillis, Rothes, and others, who assembled
an army to displace the Regent Murray, and raise her
to the throne. The regent, at that time employed in
holding a court in Glasgow, was taken by surprise ; but,
hastily raising what forces he could, and being joined
by the Earls of Montrose, Mar, and Monteith, the Lords
Temple, Home, and Lindsay, and a number of the citi-
zens, he advanced to intercept the queen's party on
their march to Dumbarton Castle, and, crossing the
bridge, took up a position on a hill near the village of
Langside, about two miles from Glasgow. A battle
ensued, in which the regent's forces were completely
victorious, leaving 300 of the queen's army dead on the
field, and taking 400 prisoners. The queen, during the
whole of the engagement, stood on a hill ; and when
she saw her troops defeated, mounted her horse, and
fled to the abbey of Dundrennan, in Galloway, a dis-
tance of sixty miles, without taking any rest. The
regent returned to Glasgow, where he offered a public
thanksgiving for his victory, and was sumptuously en-
tertained by the magistrates and council, through whom
he expressed his obligation to the citizens for their
bravery and fidelity ; and on a representation made to
him by the dean of guild, that undue exactions were
practised at the Mill of Partick, then the property of
the crown, he granted it to the corporation, with the
lands appertaining to it. In 1570, the castle of Glasgow
was assaulted by the Hamiltons and their party ; but,
though the governor was at that time absent, and the
garrison consisted only of twenty-four men, they de-
fended themselves with such resolution that the assailants
were repulsed with considerable loss ; and two days
after the siege, Sir William Drury, arriving with a party
of English, advanced to Hamilton, took the castle there
by storm, and in retaliation of the aggression of its pro-
prietors, demolished it entirely.
480
From 15*0 to 1725.
When the doctrines of the Reformation had made
considerable progress, Archbishop James Beaton, nephew
of the cardinal, and the last of the Roman Catholic pre-
lates of Glasgow, finding it hopeless to try to regain his
influence, removed the relics, plate, and ancient records,
with every thing of value, from the cathedral church
into his castle ; and subsequently retired to France,
taking with him the treasures he had accumulated.
After his departure, the Earl of Lennox appointed a
nominal archbishop, while he himself wielded all the
powers, and appropriated all the revenues of the see ;
and the people, having cast off the yoke of papal
tyranny, vented their fury on those sacred edifices which
they had previously regarded with so much veneration.
The cathedral was stripped of its leaden roof in 1573;
and in 1579, under the sanction of the legislature, the
magistrates, at the solicitation of Melville, principal of
the college, issued a warrant for its final destruction.
It was, however, preserved by the resolute conduct of
the incorporated trades, who, when the workmen, to the
number of several hundreds, were summoned by beat
of drum to commence the task of demolition, formed
themselves into a body, and threatened instant death to
the first man that should attempt to displace a single
stone. So highly, indeed, were the citizens incensed at
this attempt to destroy the proudest ornament of the
citjr, that, had not the magistrates restrained them, they
would have wreaked their vengeance upon Melville and
all his adherents. For this insurrection, the citizens
were summoned by the ministers to appear before the
council at Edinburgh, where, however, the king, at that
time not more than thirteen years of age, expressed
his approbation of their conduct, and commanded the
ministers to proceed no further in the affair, observing
that too many churches had already been destroyed, and
that he would not suffer any more abuses of the kind.
The confession of faith, which had been subscribed by
James VI. and his household, and afterwards by all ranks
in the kingdom, was subscribed in 1581 by 2250 persons
in Glasgow. In 1603, the pestilence made great ravages
in the city. The prison of the Tolbooth was erected in
the same year ; and in the year following, some regula-
tions respecting precedency among the several trading
companies were laid down, which were confirmed by the
king and parliament in 1612, under the designation of
the letter of guildry. In 16 13, regular bills of mortality
were first ordered to be kept. In 1622, the church of
the Black Friars was erected on ground given by the
college, who assigned their right of patronage to the
magistrates and council; and in 1636, the town-hall,
adjoining the Tolbooth, and the meal-market, were built.
A royal charter was obtained in the course of this year
for the appointment of a water-bailie, with maritime,
civil, and criminal jurisdiction extending from the bridge
of Glasgow to the Clough, at the mouth of the Clyde,
about twenty-six miles below the town. In 1649, Glas-
gow was visited with pestilence and famine ; and in
1652, a destructive fire broke out on the east side of
the High-street, which, communicating with the Salt-
market, spread to the opposite side of the street, and
extending to the Trongate, Gallowgate, and Bridgegate
streets, destroyed nearly one-third of the city, and pro-
perty to the amount of £100,000.
G L A S
G L A S
In 1650, Oliver Cromwell, having gained posses-
sion of Edinburgh, advanced to Glasgow, and took up
his abode at Silver-Craigs House, on the east side of
the Salt-market, where he held his levees. Understand-
ing that Patrick Gillespie, minister of the Outer High
church, had the chief influence in ecclesiastical affairs,
he invited him to a conference ; and on the following
Sunday, he went in state to the cathedral, when Mr.
Zachary Boyd, being appointed to preach, took occasion in
his sermon to inveigh against the conduct of the usurper.
In 1650, also, the presbytery of Glasgow issued an edict,
requiring every minister to appropriate a certain por-
tion of his stipend to the raising and maintenance of a
regiment of horse, for the protection of the church, and
the defence of the country from the invasion of the
sectarians. The regiment was well appointed, but was
so governed as to promote only the interests of Crom-
well, who, in 1658, addressed a letter to the provost,
requesting that the election of the magistrates might be
deferred. In 1660, the restoration of Charles II. was
celebrated, agreeably to the order of the session, by a
public thanksgiving ; but on the attempt, soon after-
wards, to introduce episcopacy into Scotland, the citi-
zens strenuously opposed the king's mandate. On the
refusal both of the clergy and laity to comply, the Earl
of Middleton, with a committee of the privy council,
came to Glasgow, and having assembled in the college,
the earl informed the committee that the archbishop
desired the royal order to be enforced, to which the
whole meeting acquiesced, with the exception of Lord
Lee, who declared that such a course would desolate the
country. It was, nevertheless, carried into effect, and
in one day 400 ministers were expelled from their
churches : the citizens of Glasgow, who were chiefly
Covenanters, suffered great persecution; and in 1666,
several of them were hanged in the streets for refusing
to embrace episcopacy. In 16*7, a second conflagra-
tion broke out, and destroyed 130 houses, upon which
occasion the citizens burst open the gaol, and, on the
alleged plea of preserving life, liberated the prisoners,
most of whom were confined on a charge of noncon-
formity. Notwithstanding these severe calamities, the
city appears to have made a steady progress in import-
ance, and in 1695, under an act of general assessment,
was returned as the second place in Scotland in point
of wealth and prosperity. The election of the magis-
trates, however, seems to have been completely under
the controul of the government: in 1681, it was deferred
because the Duke of York had not decided with respect
to the individuals to be selected ; and after he had left
the town, and an election had taken place which was
not conformable to his wishes, the privy council ordered
a new choice to be made, and many of the town coun-
cillors were removed from office. In 16S9, the magis-
trates and council were appointed by the concurrent
votes of all the burgesses; and in 1690, Glasgow was
created a free burgh by charter of William and Mary,
and invested with privileges equal to those of Edin-
burgh, or any royal burgh within the kingdom, and
which they have ever since retained.
Towards the middle of the seventeenth century, the
inhabitants began to display a spirit of active enterprise
in trade and commerce ; and finding a very insufficient
depth of water in their old port of Broomielaw, which
was accessible only to small craft, they took measures
Vol. I. — 481
for the construction of a new harbour, nearer the mouth
of the Clyde. For this purpose they proposed to form
a port at Dumbarton ; but, being opposed in their de-
sign by the magistrates of that place, they fixed upon a
site on the opposite bank of the river, and in 1662 pur-
chased thirteen acres of land from Sir Robert Maxwell,
near the village of Newark, about nineteen miles below
Glasgow. Here, having laid out the plan of a town,
they constructed the first dry-dock in Scotland ; and in
1*14, having obtained from the presbytery a separation
of the lands from the parish of Kilmalcolm, they erected
them into the present parish of Port-Glasgow, of which
the patronage was vested in the City. On the union
of the two kingdoms in 1707, the people of Glasgow
showed such hostility to the measure, and manifested
such a disposition to break out into open violence, that
the magistrates found it necessary to prohibit the meet-
ing of more than three persons together in the streets,
after sunset. The population at that time was about
14,000; trade and commerce were but in their infancy;
and so little affluence prevailed, even among the higher
classes of the citizens, that the members of parliament
received payment for attending the sessions. In 1712,
an inundation of the Clyde, during whichthe water rose
to the height of eighteen feet six inches above its ordi-
nary level, did much damage in the lower parts of the
town. In 1715, when the rebellion under the Earl of
Mar broke out, the citizens, at their own expense, raised
a regiment of 600 men, which, led by the provost,
marched to Stirling, and joined the king's forces ; and
in order to protect themselves from the depredations of
the rebels, the inhabitants intrenched the town with a
ditch, twelve feet broad and six feet deep. An imposi-
tion of two pence Scotch upon each pint of ale sold
within the burgh was granted by act of parliament, in
1722, to the magistrates, to enable them to improve
and beautify the city ; and in 1724, the town was so
much enlarged that an additional place of worship was
found necessary, and the Ramshorn church was conse-
quently erected in the north-west.
From 1725 to 1775.
In 1725, on the extension of the malt-tax to Scot-
land, for which measure Mr. Campbell, of Shawfield,
member for the city, had given his vote, the inhabitants
were highly exasperated; and on the 23rd June, the day
on which the act was to come into operation, a tumultuous
assembly collected in the streets, and violently obstructed
the excisemen in the discharge of their duty. To quell
this insurrection, two companies of Lord Deloraine's
regiment of foot, commanded by Captain Bushell, were
sent into the town, for whose accommodation the ma-
gistrates ordered the guard-house to be prepared ; but
the populace took forcible possession of it, and locking
the doors, carried off the keys, and, proceeding to Mr.
Campbell's house at Shawfield, demolished it entirely.
On their return, the rioters broke open the town maga-
zine, and distributing the arms, formed themselves into
a body, and attacked the military, who, by the advice
of the provost, were leaving the city. After patiently
sustaining the assault of the rioters for some time, Cap-
tain Bushell ordered his party to fire, when nine of the
citizens were killed, and seventeen wounded; and the
military, without further molestation, retired to Dum-
3Q
G L A S
G L A S
barton Castle. When this affair was reported to the
secretary of state, General Wade was dispatched to
Glasgow with the remaining companies of Lord Delo-
raine's regiment, six troops of dragoons, a troop of Lord
Stair's cavalry, and a company of Highlanders under
the command of Captain Campbell, of Lochnell. These
having taken possession of the town, the lord advocate
investigated the matter, and committed nineteen of the
rioters to prison, to be conveyed on the following day
to Edinburgh by Captain Bushel], who, with his two
companies of foot, had returned from Dumbarton. It
appearing also, in the course of the inquiry, that the
magistrates had countenanced the rioters in the de-
struction of Mr. Campbell's house, as well as in their
attack on the military, the provost and others were
committed to the Tolbooth ; and the lord advocate re-
fusing to accept of bail, they were placed under a guard
of the Royal Scotch dragoons, and sent as prisoners to
Edinburgh Castle. Application, however, being made
to the lords justiciary to accept of bail, the provost and
the other magistrates were liberated on the 29th of July,
and, on their return to Glasgow, were met on the road
by 200 of the inhabitants on horseback, and brought
into the city in triumph. Captain Bushell was tried for
the murder of the niue citizens upon whom he ordered
his party to fire, and found guilty, but was afterwards
pardoned.
In the rebellion of 1*45, the citizens showed then-
attachment to the reigning family by raising two batta-
lions, of 600 men each, for the service of government,
of which one was engaged in the battle of Falkirk, and
signalized itself for its intrepidity. The rebels, exas-
perated by this display of loyalty, resolved to retaliate
upon the citizens, by plundering and setting fire to the
town, from which they were diverted only by the influ-
ence of Cameron of Lochiel, who threatened, if they
persisted in that determination, to withdraw his clan
from their party. On the 14th of September, the ma-
gistrates received a letter from the Pretender's son,
demanding from the corporation the payment of £15,000
sterling, with all arrears of taxes that might be then
due to government, and a supply of arms and ammu-
nition ; but, expecting to be relieved by the forces of
Sir John Cope, then on their march to the north, the
magistrates refused compliance. After the unfavourable
result of Cope's expedition, however, they deemed it
prudent to comply with a second demand by Sir John
Hay in person, attended by a company of horse, and
Glengyle, chief of the Me Gregor clan, who, having
authority to mitigate the sum, if he judged it expe-
dient, effected a compromise by receiving £5000 in
money and £500 in goods. On the return of the rebel
army from England, Sir John Hay made another claim
for 12,000 linen shirts, 6000 cloth coats, 6000 pairs of
shoes, 6000 pairs of hose, and 6000 bonnets, to which
the magistrates were compelled to yield. These sup-
plies, together with the previous payments, and the
expense of maintaining the two battalions they had
raised, cost the city £14,000, of which, on application to
the- government, they received £10,000 in 1749. In the
course of this year the first local bank was established
in the city, under the title of the Ship Banking Com-
pany j and in 1752, the first theatre was built, inCastle-
street. In 1755, the merchants of Glasgow, with a
view of extending their commerce, and opening a more
482
direct communication with the continent of Europe, pro-
jected the construction of a canal from the river Clyde
to the river Forth, which was afterwards carried into
effect, upon an enlarged scale, under an act of parlia-
ment, by John Smeaton, the skilful engineer. A colla-
teral branch from the same to the city of Glasgow, and
also a cut from the port of Borrowstounness to join
the canal near the Frith of Forth, were proposed about
the same time ; but the latter of these was never com-
pleted. An elegant bridge was erected over the Clyde,
near the old bridge built by Bishop Raye, which, since
the introduction of wheel carriages, had been found
inconveniently narrow; and in 1770 an act of parlia-
ment was obtained for deepening the river from Dum-
buck ford to Glasgow, by which an additional depth of
seven feet was gained at the quay of Broomielaw. A
navigable canal, also, was cut from the high ground
above the cathedral to the parish of Monkland.
From 1775 to the present time.
The trade of the port had been, from the time of the
Union, making gradual but steady progress, and in 17*5
employed more than 60,000 tons of shipping in the im-
portation of merchandise, chiefly from America : in the
single article of tobacco, the annual import averaged
57,143 hogsheads. Upon the breaking out of the Ame-
rican war, however, the trade of Glasgow received a
very severe check. On this occasion, the city raised a
corps of 1000 men, well appointed, for the service of
government; and the merchants at the same time fitted
out fourteen privateers, of twelve and twenty-two guns
and 1000 men, which, in the course of the war, were of
great service in driving off the privateers of the enemy,
and protecting the trade of the coast. In 1779, on a
motion being made for bringing into parliament a bill
to repeal the penal statutes against Roman Catho-
lics, about. 12,000 of the citizens formed themselves into
societies for opposing the contemplated measure. The
minds of the populace were so inflamed, indeed, that on
the 22nd of October, a mob assembled during divine ser-
vice, and, proceeding to a Roman Catholic chapel in
High-street, scattered the congregation, destroyed the
paintings and ornaments round the altar, and were
only restrained from the entire demolition of the build-
ing by the arrival of the magistrates, with a competent
force, to disperse them. Meeting a second time, they
pulled down the warehouse of a Roman Catholic in
King-street ; and on being compelled to retire by the
magistrates and a party of the military, they hastened to
his dwelling-house, which they burnt, with all the fur-
niture. The introduction of a bill into parliament, soon
afterwards, for taking off the duty upon French cam-
bric, also excited great discontent ; and a large body of
weavers in the town, and from the adjacent villages,
paraded the streets on horseback, with an effigy of the
minister who proposed the bill, which effigy they first
hanged, and afterwards burnt in the market-place : the
bill was subsequently withdrawn. From the commence-
ment of the war with America, the attention of the citi-
zens had been more particularly directed to the increase
of manufactures j and the population having been con-
sequently augmented, the first stone of a new church,
dedicated to St. Enoch, was laid on the 12th of April,
1780; and in the following year, the Tontine-buildings
G L A S
G L A S
and coffee-rooms were erected, to the great ornament of
the city.
In 17 S2, another inundation of the Clyde took place
on the 11th and 12th of March, after an almost unin-
terrupted fall of snow and rain for several days. The
waters, on the 11th, spread over the Green, stopped all
communication by the bridges, and flooded the Bridge-
gate-street, to the depth of several feet : during the
night, the flood increased, and, after extinguishing the
fires on the ground floors of the houses, ascended to the
bed rooms of the inhabitants. On the following morn-
ing, however, the waters began to decrease ; and inter-
course with the houses was maintained by boats, which
supplied the inmates with food and other necessaries.
Upon the 13th, the river assumed the ordinary level.
So extensive was the inundation in the town and neigh-
bourhood, that the village of Gorbals appeared as an
island in the midst of the sea; and the rapidity of the
current was so strong that the greatest apprehensions
were entertained for the safety of the bridges. This
calamity was followed, during the same year, by a gene-
ral failure of the crops, and a consequent dearth of pro-
visions, under which the sufferings of the inhabitants
were alieviated by the exertions of the magistrates, who
offered a bounty upon all provisions brought into the
town, and by various wealthy individuals, who combined
together, and, purchasing large quantities of supplies of
every kind, sold them at a very considerable rate below
the prime cost. In 1787. a spirit of discontent, which
had for some time prevailed among the journeymen
weavers, broke out into open violence ; and a mob,
assembling, and demanding an increase of wages, which
was not granted, proceeded to cut down the webs from
the looms of such as were willing to work at the pre-
vious prices, destroyed the property of the master wea-
vers, cleared out the goods from their warehouses, and
burnt them in the streets. To quell these outrages, the
magistrates, with a party of peace-officers, advanced to
Calton ; but they were overpowered, and compelled to
retire ; and it was not till they had obtained a detach-
ment of the 39th regiment, commanded by Lieut. -Col.
Kellet, that they were enabled to disperse the rioters. On
approaching them for this purpose, the military were
assailed with stones, brickbats, and other missiles ; but,
after the magistrates had read the Riot act, and strenu-
ously exhorted the people to desist, the soldiers were
ordered to fire, and three of the ringleaders were killed,
and several of the rioters wounded, upon which the mob
thought proper to return to their homes.
After the conclusion of the American war in 17S3,
the merchants made every exertion to revive their com-
merce, and established a chamber of commerce and
manufactures, which was afterwards incorporated by
royal charter. Encouraged by the increasing prospe-
rity of the town, the magistrates let out, on building
leases, the Ramshorn lands, to the north of the town,
binding the lessees to erect their buildings according to
an improved plan, laying out the ground in regularly-
formed streets and squares ; and consequently, upon a
site of considerable extent, formerly occupied as orchards
and gardens, stately ranges have been raised, which,
in beauty and magnificence of appearance, are almost
unrivalled by those of any city in the kingdom. In
1790, the canal joining the Forth and Clyde, which had
been commenced in 1768, was completed ; and on the
483
29th of June, the communication was opened by Archi-
bald Speirs, Esq., of Elderslie, chairman of the com-
mittee of management, who, with the assistance of the
principal engineer, poured a hogshead of water, brought
from the river Forth by the canal, into the Clyde, in
commemoration of the union of the eastern and western
seas. In 1793, the Tron church was destroyed by an
accidental fire, which broke out in the session-house ad-
joining; and the records of the general session were all
burnt. In the following year, a scheme was projected
for letting the lands appertaining to Hutcheson's hos-
pital on building leases, and the plan of a village, to be
called Hutchesonton, was prepared : the foundation
stone of a new bridge was laid by the lord provost and
magistrates ; and the Glasgow infirmary, of which the
foundation had been laid two years before, was opened
for the reception of patients. In 1795, the citizens, to
counteract the menaced attempts of the abettors of the
French revolution, enrolled themselves into two corps
of volunteers, for the protection of the city, and the
defence of their coast, under the sanction of parliament.
On the 18th of November, a third inundation of the
Clyde did much damage to the lower parts of the town :
about the middle of the day, the current was so impe-
tuous that it shook the piers of the newly-erected bridge,
causing two of the arches to fall into the river ; and in
the course of the afternoon, the three remaining arches
also fell. In 1797, the Royal Glasgow volunteers in-
creased their numbers to ten companies ; and a second
battalion of 500 men was formed, whose services were
accepted by government, and who were placed under
the command of officers, appointed by the lord lieute-
nant of the county ; and two troops of volunteer cavalry
were also raised, for additional security. In August,
1822, when George IV. visited Scotland, the lord pro-
vost and magistrates, with the corporation and depu-
tations from the merchants and trades' houses, went in
public procession to Edinburgh, and presented loyal
addresses to His Majesty. In 1S3C2, the cholera raged in
the city, with great violence, from the 12th of February
till the 11th of November, during which period there
were 620S patients, of whom 3005 died.
Description or the City.
The city is built, on the north bank of the river Clyde,
which, in this part of its course, flows nearly from east
to west, through a level tract of fertile land, abounding
with mineral wealth. From the river, the ground has,
at some distance from the shore, a gradual ascent for
nearly half a mile, terminating in a ridge of considerable
elevation, on the summit and declivities of which, to-
wards the north-east, the more ancient part of the town
is chiefly situated. Two extensive and spacious lines of
street pass through the whole of the city, intersecting
each other at the Cross. Of these, the principal line,
consisting of the Gallowgate, Trongate, and Argyll
streets, reaches for something more than a mile and a
half, in a direction from east to west, and is about
eighty three feet in average breadth ; and the other, in-
tersecting the city from north to south, and comprising
the High-street and the Saltmarket- street, is above
three-quarters of a mile in length, and about fifty-four
feet wide. Parallel with the former of the two great
lines, are Bell, Wilson, Ingram, Cochrane, George, Duke,
3 Q2
GLAS
G L A S
and Clyde streets ; entering which, at right angles, are
King, Candleriggs, Brunswick, Hutcheson, Stockwell,
Dunlop, Glassford, Miller, Queen, Buchanan, Jamaica,
and Maxwell streets. Near the southern extremity of
the Saltmarket-street is Bridgegate-street, diverging ob-
liquely to the south-west, and once forming the principal
avenue from the old bridge into the city ; and south of
Argyll street are many streets leading to Clyde-street
and the quays at Broomielaw. To the north-east of
George and Duke streets, and almost in a line with each
other, are Rotten -row and Drygate-street, of which the
latter was the chief street of the ancient town. North
of High-street, on a triangular plot of ground formerly
the site of the episcopal palace, is the Royal Infirmary,
nearly opposite to which, on the west, was the hospital
of St. Nicholas ; and on the banks of the Molendinar
rivulet, to the east, is the venerable cathedral. To the
east of the Saltmarket-street is St. Andrew's-street,
conducting into St. Andrew's-square, a handsome range
of buildings, in the centre of which is the church dedi-.
cated to that saint ; and still further to the east is Ham-
ilton-street. South of Argyll-street is St. Enoch's-
square, on the south side of which is the church of St.
Enoch, and on the east Surgeon's Hall ; and to the
north-west of the same street is St. George's, the most
spacious square of the city, and in which the houses are
large and of elegant appearance. In the last-named
square are, a bronze statue of Sir John Moore, a native
of Glasgow, erected at a cost of £4000 ; a statue, by
Chantrey, of the great James Watt ; and a Doric column
to the memory of Sir Walter Scott. There are some
remains of ancient mansions, identified with many events
of importance in Scottish history, and of those which
are still entire the principal is the house near the
northern extremity of High-street, in which Lord Darn-
ley, the husband of Mary, Queen of Scots, resided dur-
ing his illness. Near the end of Bridgegate-street, till
lately stood Silver-Craigs House, where Oliver Crom-
well took up his abode, and held his levees, after the
battle of Dunbar.
As viewed from the Cross, the city has a striking
character of magnificence and grandeur, combining
views of the Trongate, Argyll, and Gallowgate streets ;
the Tontine-buildings, in front of which is an equestrian
statue, in bronze, of King William III., presented by
James Macrae, Esq., in 1735; and part of the High-
street, on the east side of which are situated the stately
edifice of the university, and the Hunterian Museum,
an elegant structure in the Roman style of architec-
ture. The houses are spacious and handsome, built of
freestone, and roofed with slate ; and those in the
streets diverging from the Cross were once, for some
length, embellished with piazzas of the Doric order. Num-
bers of the houses consist of several tenements under
the same roof, called flats, each of which is inhabited by
a separate family ; those at Blythswood are mostly
constructed upon a plan adapted for one family only. The
streets are all well paved, the carriage-ways with whin-
stone, and the foot-paths with flags. The city is lighted
with gas, partly from works erected by a company
incorporated by act of parliament in 1817, and whose
capital, originally £40,000, has been augmented to
£150,000. The works, which are upon a very extensive
scale, occupy an area 125 yards in length, and nearly
of equal breadth ; and connected with them are several
484
subsidiary establishments in different parts of the town.
The gas is purified with lime, and afterwards with a
solution of sulphate of iron, and is conducted to the
houses of the inhabitants by cast-iron pipes, laid under
the foot-paths on both sides of the street : the aggre-
gate length of the pipes is 110 miles; and in the pro-
duction of the gas requisite, not less than 9000 tons of
coal are annually consumed. In 1843 a second gas
company was formed, whose works are likewise upon
a very large scale indeed. The inhabitants are at
present furnished with water by the united Glas-
gow and Cranston-Hill Water Companies, of which the
former was incorporated in 1806, and the latter in
1 SOS : the works were originally constructed at an ex-
pense of £320,000, and have been since considerably
enlarged. Previously to its distribution to the houses,
the water is made to pass through a natural filter of
sand ; and it is thence conveyed by pipes, laid under
the carriage-way of the streets. A company called the
Gravitation Water Company, however, propose to carry
the water of the Avon, the Giel, and the Kype to the
city, from the south, for its more abundant supply, at an
expense calculated at about half a million sterling ; the
survey has already been completed under Mr. Beardmore,
an eminent engineer, and a bill will be immediately
introduced into parliament to sanction the undertaking.
The water of these streams is of excellent quality; and
the reservoir it is proposed to construct, covering an
extent of about 800 acres, will add a new feature to the
scenery of the district.
The public green, a beautiful and important appen-
dage to the city, to which it is conjectured to have im-
parted its name, is situated to the south-east, on the
bank of the Clyde, and comprises about 136 acres. It
has been greatly improved, at a cost of more than
£50,000, and laid out as a park, with pleasure-grounds,
and serpentine gravel-walks amidst shrubberies and
plantations embellished with stately timber. The whole
forms a delightful promenade for the inhabitants ; and
there is a carriage drive, two miles and a half in extent,
through a rich variety of beautiful scenery, and com-
manding numerous extensive and interesting views of
the river, the city, with its cathedral and lofty spires,
the suburbs, the adjacent hills, and many other pleasing
features. At the western end of the High-green is a
handsome obelisk, erected by subscription of the citi-
zens, at an expense of £2075, in honour of Lord Nelson ;
the first stone was laid on the 1st of August, 1S06, the
anniversary of the battle of the Nile. On the margin
of the river, at the southern extremity of the green, is a
lodge belonging to the Royal Humane Society, replete
with all the requisite apparatus for the restoration of
suspended animation from drowning, and for the right
application of which officers are in constant attendance.
The suburbs are extensive, and several of modern ap-
pearance : the ancient Gorbals, now a burgh of barony,
is situated upon the south of the Clyde, communicating
with the city by the old bridge. On the same side of
the river, to the west, are Hutchesonton and Tradeston ;
the former connected with the city by a stone bridge of
five arches, erected in 1834, at an expense of £22,440;
and the latter by the Glasgow bridge, a handsome struc-
ture of granite, of seven arches, 500 feet long and fifty
feet wide within the parapets, forming the chief entrance
to the city from the south, and completed by the late
GLAS
G L A S
Mr. Telford, in 1836, at a cost of £34,427. North of
the Clyde are Bridgeton, Calton, Grahamston, Finnies-
ton, and Anderston, all of which are described under
their respective heads, as are also Gorbals, Hutcheson-
ton, &c. Near the east end of the Gallowgate-street are
the Infantry Barracks, erected ill 1795, and inclosing a
quadrangular area of four acres, of which three sides
are occupied with buildings, and the fourth by an iron
palisade ; the central range comprises the officers
apartments and mess-room, and the wings seventy-two
apartments, each adapted for fourteen men. The area
affords an extensive ground for parade, and contains a
guard house, magazine, infirmary, and other offices.
The City Guard-house, formerly in Candleriggs-street,
but rebuilt on the east side of Montrose-street, was a neat
edifice fronted with a piazza ; and the interior was well
arranged : its site, however, is now occupied by other
buildings.
Literary and Scientific Institutions, and Places
of Amusement.
The first circulating library was established by Mr.
John Smith, in 1753, and at present contains about
'20,000 volumes : another, founded in 1807, and pur-
chased in IS 11 by Messrs. Potter and Company, has a
collection of nearly 18,000 volumes. The public sub-
scription library was instituted in 1791, by Walter Stir-
ling, Esq., who bequeathed his mansion in Miller-street,
with the whole of his library, his share in the Tontine-
buildings, and £1000 in money, in trust to the lord pro-
vost, and others chosen from the town council, the
merchants' house, the presbytery of Glasgow, and the
faculty of surgeons and physicians, for its establish-
ment. Though originally intended for the gratuitous
use of the citizens, it is supported, and has been greatly
extended, by subscription gradually augmented from
three to ten guineas, paid by each member on admis-
sion, and which entitles him to the benefit of it for life.
It contains more than 6000 volumes, which are kept in
the hall of Hutcheson's hospital. The Glasgow public
library was established in 1804, by a society of gentle-
men, who placed it under the management of a com-
mittee, nine curators, a treasurer, secretary, and libra-
rian ; it has a collection of 4000 volumes, and is sup-
ported by an annual subscription of ten shillings, and
a payment of twelve shillings on entrance. A theolo-
gical library, purchased at the death of the Rev. James
Robinson, in 1814, for the use of the public, by a society
of clergymen of the Associate Synod, and subsequently
enlarged, is supported by a proprietary of '200 share-
holders, of £5 each, and a subscription of five shillings,
and is open to strangers of all denominations, on pay-
ment of half a guinea annually ; it contains about 3000
volumes. There are also numerous book societies in
the town.
The Lyceum, in South Albion-street, is a handsome
building elegantly fitted up, comprising a saloon fifty-
four feet in length and thirty-three feet in width,
adjoining which was till lately a well-furnished library,
thirty-three feet long and twenty-two wide ; it was
amply supplied with newspapers and periodicals, and
maintained by subscriptions of two guineas per annum.
The Literary and Commercial Society, believed to have
been founded by Dr. Adam Smith, meets every Thurs-
485
day, from the middle of November till the end of April.
Surgeons' Hall, on the east side of St. Enoch's-square, is
a good building of the Ionic order, erected in 1791, for
the use of the faculty of surgeons and physicians : the
front is decorated with a range of Ionic pilasters, sup-
porting an entablature and cornice, surmounted with an
attic and open balustrade. The interior contains the
hall for the faculty, a spacious room, adorned with a
painting of Hygeia, the goddess of health, and other
allegorical devices ; a library ; committee-rooms ; and
various offices. In the lobby are several old portraits,
among which are those of Galen, Hippocrates, and
other fathers of medicine ; and on the right hand, is
the entrance into the library. Two societies hold
their meetings here, namely, the Glasgow Medical
Society and the Medico-Chirurgical Society, the for-
mer of which meets on the first and third Tuesdays
of every month from October to May inclusive. The
Philosophical Society, established in 1802, for the diffu-
sion of knowledge by reading essays on philosophical
subjects, and exhibiting models for the improvement of
machinery, is under the controul of a president, vice-
president, and council of twelve, with a treasurer,
secretary, and librarian ; and is supported by subscrip-
tions of fifteen shillings annually, and a payment of
one guinea on admission. The Astronomical Society,
now extinct, was instituted in 1808, by a number of
gentlemen incorporated, under the sanction of the town
council, for the promotion of astronomical science, and
was supported by a proprietary consisting of 250 share-
holders, of £20 each. Its observatory was a handsome
and well-arranged edifice, situated on Garnet-hill, about
a mile to the north-west of the Cross, and commanding
an extensive prospect. The building was in the Egyptian
style of architecture, from a design by Mr. Webster, of
London, and comprised three distinct compartments, of
which the principal, constituting the scientific obser-
vatory, was crowned with a revolving cupola ; the popular
observatory contained a great variety of instruments and
books for the use of the subscribers, and the western
compartment was fitted up for the accommodation of the
observer. In the scientific observatory were three mas-
sive pedestals of stone, on one of which was placed a side-
real clock, and on another, twenty feet high, were an
azimuth, and an altitude instrument, which, from their
elevation, were within the revolving cupola, and capable
of being fitted up with an equatorial circle : on the third
pedestal was a large mural circle by Troughton. On the
terrace in front of the popular observatory was a tele-
scope, on Herschel's construction, ten feet long, sheltered
from the wind by the projection of the wings of the
building ; and on the roof was a telescope, fourteen feet
long, erected by Herschel himself. The Mechanics' Insti-
tution was founded in 1823, for the promotion of the
arts and sciences, by the delivery of lectures in natural
philosophy, chemistry, and other subjects ; and in 1831,
a commodious building was erected for that purpose, in
Hanover-street, on the pediment of which is a colossal
statue of James Watt. The edifice contains apartments
for the models and apparatus, a theatre for the lectures,
and a library consisting of more than 3000 volumes :
the funds arise from annual subscriptions of the students,
of whom the average number is about 500. The Mail-
land Club, similar in its design to the Bannatyne Club
of Edinburgh and the Roxburghe Club of London, has
GL A S
G L A S
been established within the last few years, for the
reprinting of scarce and valuable books, and the print-
ing of curious and important manuscripts, illustrative
of the history, literature, and antiquities of Scotland.
The Assembly Rooms, in Ingram-street, were erected in
1796, after a design by Messrs. Adam, by Tontine sub-
scription, in shares of £20 each. The building, which
is an elegant specimen of the Ionic order, rising from a
rusticated basement, is divided in front, into three com-
partments, by two boldly-projecting central portions,
between which is the central window, and two less
prominent projections at the extremities ; and is
embellished with pillars supporting an entablature
and cornice, surmounted by an open balustrade. The
interior contains the assembly room, eighty feet long,
thirty -five feet wide, and twenty-seven feet high, ele-
gantly fitted up, and brilliantly lighted ; a card room ;
retiring and supper rooms of similar character ; and
various other apartments. Theatrical performances, pre-
viously to the erection of a theatre, took place, under
the Edinburgh company, in a temporary booth near the
bishop's palace : in 1764, a regular theatre was built,
and opened by Mr. Bellamy; but, on the first night,
some disorderly persons set fire to the scenery and
machinery. The stage was refitted ; but the subsequent
performances never received any adequate patronage,
and in 1782 the structure was made a storehouse. In
1785, a theatre which had been erected in Dunlop-street
was opened by Mrs. Siddons, Mrs. Jordan, and others ;
and the taste for the drama began to increase, which,
in 1805, led to the erection of a splendid building in
Queen-street, at an expense of £18,500 raised by sub-
scription. This edifice, however, was burnt down in
1829; and the former building in Dunlop-street was
consequently enlarged and embellished by Mr. Alexan-
der, and continued to be used until 1S39, when it was
pulled down, and a larger and more elegant structure
erected in its stead. The Circus, to the west of Jamaica-
street, long abandoned, was capable of holding about 1000
persons, and was fitted up for the performance of pan-
tomimes and equestrian feats, for which latter purpose
there was a circular area between the pit and the or-
chestra. The old Botanic Gardens originated in the want
of such an appendage to the university, and were formed
in 1830, by a proprietary of £10 shareholders, incor-
porated under the designation of the Botanic Garden
Institution, and who purchased for that purpose eight
acres of ground near the reservoir of the Cranston-hill
water- works. In consideration of the university having
bought shares to the amount of £2000, their professor of
botany was invested with the exclusive privilege of de-
livering lectures in the hall of the institution, a handsome
and well-arranged building, adjoining the gardens. This
land near the reservoir, however, has been sold, and a
new garden of twenty-one acres formed on the banks of
the Kelvin , two miles off. The stock of the society ex-
ceeds £10,000; and the gardens, which contain a very
extensive assortment of rare and valuable plants from
almost every part of the world, are under the direction
of a president, vice-president, and a committee of nine
of the proprietors. The Public Baths were erected in
1800, by Mr. William Harley, in Bath-street, at the
eastern extremity of Nile-street ; they comprise hot and
cold baths, with every requisite. The Victoria Baths are
of recent erection, and very well conducted.
486
Trade and Commerce.
The first branch of trade pursued by the inhabitants
was the curing of salmon taken in the Clyde, of which
they exported great quantities to France and Holland,
receiving, in return, brandy, wines, and salt ; and
towards the commencement of the 17th century, they
embarked largely in the herring-fisheries, in which, also,
they carried on a very extensive trade, in vessels of
their own, and for the protection of which, in the reign
of Charles II., they fitted out a privateer of considerable
force. About this time, likewise, they imported much
iron from the Baltic ; and after the union of the two
kingdoms, which opened to them the markets of America
and the West Indies, they appear to have imbibed such
a spirit of commercial enterprize as laid the foundation
of their future wealth. They exported, in English ves-
sels, various goods for the supply of those colonies, from
which they obtained in return large quantities of tobacco.
The increasing success with which this traffic was car-
ried on, soon enabled them to build and maintain vessels
of their own; and in 1718, the first of these ships left
Glasgow for America. So very great, indeed, was the
prosperity attending their colonial relations, that it at
length excited the jealousy of the English merchants ;
and after numerous vexatious obstructions, opposed by
those of Bristol, London, Whitehaven, and other rival
ports, the trade gradually diminished, and in 1735
almost declined. It, however, revived soon after, though
not to its former extent, and continued by degrees, and
slowly, to augment, till the breaking out of the American
war, which involved many of the principal merchants in
ruinous losses. But the spirit of enterprise which had
been so powerfully excited, though damped by these dis-
asters, was not extinguished : the people of Glasgow
found other sources of trade in the West Indies, and
on the continent of Europe ; and in 1790; there were
476 ships, of the aggregate burthen of 46,581 tons, em-
ployed in the business of the Clyde.
The subsequent introduction of manufactures af-
forded to the inhabitants a permanent source of in-
creasing prosperity. Of these, the earliest appear to
have been those of plaiding, soap, ropes, and the re-
fining of sugar, of which, however, the first only was
carried to any considerable extent : the tanning of
leather has been pursued from an early date ; and the
Glasgow Tan-work Company, founded soon after the
union, had very extensive premises at the head of the
Gallowgate. Breweries, too, on a large scale, were esta-
blished by several companies at a distant period. The
manufacture of linen, lawns, cambrics, and similar arti-
cles, was begun about 1725, and continued for some
time to be the staple trade of the city and neighbour-
hood ; and though almost superseded by the cotton
manufacture, it is still pursued to a tolerable extent.
The weaving of inkle was established in 1732, by Mr.
Alexander Harvie, of Glasgow, who, at imminent risk,
brought over the first loom for that purpose from Haer-
lem, together with some workmen, and opened a factory
here : this branch of manufacture was subsequently in-
troduced into Manchester and other towns in England,
but it is yet carried on here upon a large scale. The
manufacture of delft-ware, in imitation of the Dutch,
in which many improvements have been made, and of
the various kinds of pottery and earthenware, is also
G L A S
G L A S
considerable ; and the snuff manufacture, which, while
the tobacco trade with America lasted, was very exten-
sive, is still successfully prosecuted. The founding of
types, and the art of printing, have been brought to
great perfection ; and numerous handsome editions of
the Greek and Roman classics, and other standard
works, have issued from the university press and others.
The manufacture of green and flint glass ware has like-
wise made considerable progress ; and large public ale
and porter breweries have been established.
The cotton manufacture, which was introduced at
an early period, and is now become the staple trade of
the town and its vicinity, has been extremely rapid in
its advance. Several large factories, bleaching-grounds,
and printfields, for which the situation of Glasgow, the
purity of the water of the Clyde, and the abundant
supply of coal in the immediate neighbourhood, ren-
dered the place highly favourable, were soon established;
and in 1791, not less than 15,000 looms, each employ-
ing nine persons, were in active operation. The intro-
duction of this manufacture and the several trades con-
nected with it, gave rise to the invention of machinery
of all kinds ; and the improvements in the construction
of the steam-engine, which appear to have been carried
to their height under the direction of the celebrated Mr.
Watt, of this place, and subsequently of the Soho works,
near Birmingham, have increased this important branch
of trade to an extent almost incredible. There are at
present, in Glasgow and its suburbs, as many as fifty
cotton-mills, in which are more than 500,000 spindles ;
two of these are fire-proof, and the cost of their erection
and machinery exceeded £32,000 each. The number of
looms is 47,127, of which 15,127 are steam-looms,
18,537 hand-looms in the city aud suburbs, and the
rest hand-looms in other parts for the Glasgow manu-
facturers.
The printing of calico, in which considerable improve-
ment has been made by the use of the cylinder, is car-
ried on extensively ; and the art of dyeing Turkey red,
which was introduced about the beginning of the pre-
sent century by M. Papillon, in conjunction with Mr.
George Macintosh, who first erected works for that
purpose, has been practised with increased advantage.
The printing of Bandana hankerchiefs, begun by Messrs.
Monteith and Company, has been also brought to great
perfection. The weaving of Cashmere shawls has been
much improved by Messrs. Houldsworth and Sons, of
this place, who, having purchased from Captain Coch-
rane his patent for the spinning of Cashmere wool, the
secret of which had been discovered in France, esta-
blished a factory here for that purpose with complete
success. The attention of this firm has likewise been
directed to the art of spinning Merino yarn, also dis-
covered by the captain, and for which the Board of Arts
awarded him a premium of £300 ; and the merinos
produced in the factory of Messrs. Houldsworth are
equal in softness and quality to those of France. The
woollen manufacture is confined chiefly to the coarser
kinds of cloth, and carpets aud blankets, made from
native wool, which is not adapted for articles of finer
texture. The manufacture of steam-engines, and of the
various kinds of machinery, is carried on to a very great
extent : there are not less than fourteen establishments,
in one of which, alone, very nearly 1000 persons are
constantly employed. The number of steam-engines in
48?
the different factories of the city and suburbs is esti-
mated at more than 350, including those in the col-
lieries and similar works.
From the peculiarly advantageous situation of Glas-
gow on the Clyde, and in a spacious district abounding
with coal and ironstone of rich quality, the iron ma-
nufacture has naturally become an important source
of wealth. In the works for this purpose, material
improvement has been effected, both in the quality of
the iron and in the facility of obtaining it, by the use
of the patent " hot blast," invented by Mr. Neilson, in
1S24, and which, by conveying a stream of hot air to
the blast-furnaces, has been found to increase the in-
tensity of heat in the fires to an extraordinary degree.
And not only is a greater quantity of iron of better quality
thus produced, in less time ; but also, by allowing of
the substitution of coal in the place of coke, previously
used, the amount of fuel has been reduced to three-
sevenths of what was necessary by the cold blast pro-
cess. Nor is it in the making of iron only that this
invention has proved profitable : in the foundry and
in the forge, the advantage of its adoption is likewise
strikingly apparent. There are now nine iron-foundries
in the city and suburbs ; and in the Govan works, which
consist of five furnaces, about 26,000 tons of iron are
produced annually, on an average.
Extensive chemical-works were established in the
parish of St. Rollox, in 1300, by Messrs. Tennant, Knox,
and Company, for the manufacture of sulphuric acid,
chloride of lime, soda, and other articles. The build-
ings of this concern occupy an area of nearly 28,000
square yards, and contain more than 100 furnaces, re-
torts, and other apparatus ; the vessels of platina alone
are valued at £7000, and in the various processes 600
tons of coal are consumed weekly. The manufacture
of acetate of lead, previously imported from Holland,
and of which large quantities are used in calico print-
ing, was established here in 1786, by Mr. Charles Mac-
intosh, and carried on to such an extent that great
quantities of it were exported to the very place from
which the mode of preparing it had been originally
obtained. Mr. Macintosh also effected many improve-
ments in the dyeing of fancy muslins, and the prepara-
tion of chloride of lime, in powder, for the purpose of
bleaching; and in 1808, he established very extensive
alum-works in the neighbourhood ; commenced the
manufacture of Prussian blue, and the triple prussiate
of potash as a substitute for indigo ; and introduced the
process of rendering silk and woollen stuffs waterproof
by the insertion, between two surfaces, of a layer of
caoutchouc, made liquid by solution in naphtha. The
same gentleman likewise invented a process for convert-
ing iron into steel, by inclosing it in air-tight vessels,
and subjecting it to the action of carburetted hydrogen
gas ; for all which inventions and discoveries he was,
in 1823, elected a fellow of the Royal Society of London.
The distillery of whisky is comparatively of recent in-
troduction ; the first establishment of any magnitude
was in 1736, and since that period no very great in-
crease has taken place.
The trade of the port is principally with America,
the East and West Indies, and the continent of Europe;
and since the dissolution of the East India Company's
charter, the traffic has been extended to China. In
the year 1814, the quantity of sugar imported into the
G L A S
GL A S
ports of the Clyde from the West Indies, was 540, 19S
cwt., of rum 1,251,092 gallons, and of cotton wool
6,530,177 lb. ; exclusively of large quantities of grain,
hemp, tallow, and timber from the Baltic. The ex-
ports, chiefly manufactured goods, during the same
year, amounted to £4,016,181. The number of ships
that entered inwards was 448, of the aggregate bur-
then of 72,219 tons ; and the number that cleared out-
wards, during that year, was 592, of 94,350 tons. A
very considerable trade is carried on at Glasgow in
timber, in which the firm of Messrs. Pollock, Gilmour,
and Company employ thirty-nine large ships, of which
the aggregate burthen is nearly 27,000 tons, and which
occupy more than 1300 seamen ; they generally make
from two to three voyages annually, but are in part
used in importing other kinds of merchandize. The
first ship engaged in the China free trade was consigned
to Mr. William Mathieson, of this city; and her cargo
of teas was disposed of in the sale-room of the Royal
Exchange, at a remunerating price, on the 14th of
November, 1834. In 1840, the number of vessels that
entered the port of Glasgow was 16,486, of the aggre-
gate burthen of 1,166,329 tons: the vessels employed
in foreign trade, direct to Glasgow, amounted in the
year 1844 to 316, registering 58,816 tons; while the
vessels that cleared out for foreign ports amounted
to 442, registering 83,621 tons. In 1812, the cus-
toms yielded only £3124; in 1814, £7420; in 1817,
£8290; in 1820, £1 1,000 ; in 1822, £16,148 ; in 1824,
£29,926; in 1825, £41,154; in 1828, £74,255; in
1833, £97,042 ; in 1834, £166,913 ; in 1835, £270 667 ;
in 1837, £389,702; and in 1844, £551,851. From this
statement, some notion may be gained as to the great
and progressive advances of the commerce of the city ;
but it must be observed that the increase is not solely
to be attributed to an augmented trade, but partly to
the circumstance of numbers of ships now being able,
from a greater depth of water, to proceed to the Broomie-
law, at Glasgow, and pay duties there, instead of at
Greenock, on the Frith of Clyde. The present custom-
house was built in 1839, at a cost of £13,000.
The harbour at Broomielaw has been greatly im-
proved and extended, and, by the deepening of the river,
has been rendered accessible to vessels of more than 700
tons ; the quay reaches for 3360 yards in length on the
north, and nearly 2260 on the south, side of the river.
There are spacious warehouses erected for the reception
of merchandize, with every requisite for facilitating the
trade of the port. Six dredging-machines, with power-
ful steam apparatus and two diving-bells, are kept for
clearing the river from obstructions ; and powerful
cranes have been erected, one of which, constructed by
Messrs. Claud Girwood and Company, is capable of
raising a weight of thirty-two tons, while another, on
the south side of the river, made by Mr. Caird, can
raise forty-five tons at a time. In 1840, an act was
passed for further deepening and improving the Clyde,
and enlarging the harbour, and for constructing a
wet-dock. The tonnage and harbour dues have pro-
gressively increased : in 1771, they amounted to £1071 ;
in 1791, to £2145; in 1804, to £4760; in 1825, to
£8480; in 1826, to £16,200; in 1835, to £31,900 ; and
in 1840, to £46,446. Since the deepening of the Clyde,
ship-building has been introduced, and is now carried
on with success ; yards for that purpose have been con-
488
structed, and several vessels of considerable burthen
have been launched from the port, among which was a
very large steamer for the Mediterranean trade. The
art of propelling vessels by steam appears to have
been first brought into actual use at this place, by Mr.
Henry Bell, who, having constructed a steam-engine
of thirty-horse power, employed Messrs. Wood and
Company, of Port-Glasgow, to build a boat for him,
which was the first that sailed on any navigable river in
Europe. This vessel, which was called the Comet, began
to ply on the 18th of January, 1812, between Glasgow
and Greenock, performing the voyage at the rate of five
miles per hour, which was subsequently increased to
seven. Since that time, steam navigation has been
much encouraged ; and some of the Glasgow boats have
now 400-horse power. The number of steamers em-
ployed at the port, in a recent year, was sixty-seven, of
which eighteen plied between this place and the ports
of Liverpool, Belfast, Dublin, and Londonderry ; eleven
between Stranraer and the Western Highlands, for goods
and passengers ; twenty-six for passengers only, in the
river and Frith of Clyde ; eight for luggage ; and four
for towing vessels. At the present time the number of
steamers is still larger ; the boats of more recent con-
struction are elegantly fitted up for passengers, and
their speed is greatly increased.
Canals and Railways.
The Forth and Clyde Canal, already referred to, and
which, for want of funds, had been suspended in 1775,
was resumed in 1784, when government granted £50,000
from the forfeited estates, towards its completion, which
was effected in 1790. This important work is nearly
thirty-five miles in length, of which sixteen miles are on
the summit level, having an elevation of 156 feet above
the sea : the ascent to this level, from the eastern sea,
is obtained by twenty, and from the western sea by
nineteen, locks. The average width of the canal is
fifty-six feet on the surface, and twenty-eight at the
bed ; and the average depth ten feet. By the opening
of this line of navigation, the distance by sea is dimi-
nished 800 or 1000 nautical miles, and the passage
rendered vastly more safe. The canal, in its progress,
crosses the rivers Luggie and Kelvin, and is conveyed
over the latter, and the deep valley in which it flows,
by a bridge of four lofty arches, erected at an expense
of £8509. It is supplied by eight capacious reservoirs,
covering more than 720 acres of ground. Several swift
passage-boats leave Port-Dundas, at Glasgow, and re-
turn, daily ; the concern is in a very flourishing state,
aud in 1844, 59,333 tons of goods were carried. During
the suspension of this undertaking, the city com-
pleted a collateral cut to Hamilton hill, about a mile
to the north of Glasgow, which was subsequently ex-
tended to Port-Dundas, and which, affording a more
ready communication than was previously possessed,
greatly increased the facilities of commerce. The Monk-
land Canal, begun in 1770, and connecting the town
with the collieries in the parishes of Old and New
Monkland, is about twelve miles in length, thirty-five
feet wide at the surface, and twenty-four at its bed, and
about five feet in average depth ; it attains its summit
level at Blackhill, and is thence continued to Sheepford,
where are two locks, by means of which it communi-
G L A S
G L A S
cates with the river Cakler. The Glasgow, Paisley, and
Ardrossan Canal was commenced in 1807, and the part
between Glasgow and Johnstone was opened in 1811 :
the projected line, from Port-Eglinton to the harbour
at Ardrossan, is thirty-five miles and three-quarters ;
but nothing has been done since the completion of the
Johnstone portion, and the distance does not, therefore,
exceed eleven miles. The canal is thirty feet wide at
the surface, and eighteen feet at the bed, and the ave-
rage depth four feet six inches ; near Johnstone it has
eight locks, and there are numerous boats employed in
carrying heavy goods.
The Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway, which is more
particularly described under the head of Edinburgh,
was commenced in October, 1S38, and opened on the
21st of February, 1S42. It is forty-six miles in length,
and, for a considerable distance previously to its en-
tering the city, has its course in a direction nearly
parallel with the Forth and Clyde canal, passing, within
less than four miles of the terminus at Glasgow, over
the Monkland and Kirkintilloch railway. It forms a
curve of nearly half a mile radius at Springvale, to the
north of the city, and, descending in an inclined plane,
proceeds through three tunnels, of 4/6, 292, and 272
yards in length, respectively, each of which has a span
of twenty-six feet in width, and is twenty-two feet in
height. The gross expenditure amounted to £1,649,115,
up to July 1844, when an act was passed authorising
the company to increase their capital stock, origi-
nally £900,000, to £1,406,250, and their power of
borrowing to £46S,750, with the view of extending the
works at Edinburgh, so as to form a junction with the
North British railway. The Glasgow and Garnkirk Rail-
way at present commences at St. Rollox, near the city,
and pursues a north-eastern circuitous course of eight
miles, till it joins the Monkland and Kirkintilloch rail-
way, not far from the Gargill colliery, at Gartsherrie.
After proceeding by Milton, it curves through Robroy-
ston Moss, near Clay House ; it intersects another moss
in the parish of Cadder, and passes by Whitehill and
Gartcloss to its junction. From Glasgow to Robroy-
stou Moss the line has a gradual ascent, but for the
remainder of its course it is nearly level, passing under
several bridges, and having six level crossings with
protecting gates. The line is worked by locomotive-
engines, of which one, constructed by Messrs. Johnston
and Mc Nab, of this city, drew after it a train of thirty-
six loaded coal- waggons, weighing 145 tons, through
the entire length, in one hour and seven minutes. The
whole was completed at an expense of £107,365, and
was opened to the public on the 2nd of July, 1831. The
depot at St. Rollox has booking-offices and waiting-
rooms, with sheds and buildings for the repair of the
engines and carriages : at Gartsherrie the business of
the station is conducted at an inn, and there are two
or three intermediate stations on the line. The sub-
scribed capital of the company, in shares of £25 each, is
£139,000; and in 1844, an act was passed authorising
an addition of £100,000, with power to form an inde-
pendent line from the original eastern terminus to Coat-
bridge and the Wishaw and Coltness railway, and also
to extend the line at the west end into the city. These
extensions will soon be completed, and will increase the
line to nearly eleven miles.
The Glasgow, Paisley, Kilmarnock, and Ayr Railway
Vol. I.— 489
commences at Tradeston, near the city, and for a short
distance proceeds in a direction parallel with the Glas-
gow and Johnstone canal, and, making a slight curve,
passes on to Paisley, and is there carried over the river
Cart. Thence it runs between Elderslie and Johnstone,
and, crossing the canal in three different places, ad-
vances nearly parallel with the Black Cart river, till it
verges on the loch of Kilbirnie, nineteen miles from
Glasgow, where it attains its summit level, about seventy
feet above the terminus. The line thence proceeds
towards Ayr, passing on the east of the Garnock
river, which it crosses in the parish of Dairy, where the
Kilmarnock branch of eleven miles diverges from it
on the east. It then advances to Dalgarvan Mill, and
intersects the west side of the town of Kilwinning, near
which the short Ardrossan railway strikes off; and,
advancing to Irvine, it passes near the Frith of Clyde,
in the parish of Dundonald, to Barassie Mill, after which,
crossing the Kilmarnock and Troon tramroad, it runs
between Monkton and the Frith to Prestwick, and ter-
minates at the new bridge of Ayr, on the north side
of the river. The line, from Glasgow to Ayr, is forty
miles in length, of which about one-fourth is level, and
of the remainder the steepest gradient is not more than
twelve feet in a mile. The heaviest earthworks are
between Glasgow and Paisley : the Ibrox cutting, here,
above a mile long, has a depth of twenty feet ; and the
Arklestone tunnel and cuttings are nearly three-quarters
of a mile in length, and fifty feet below the surface.
The chief bridges are those over the Irvine and Gar-
nock rivers, and one over the Cart, at Paisley, which
has a span of eighty-five feet, and a viaduct crossing
seven streets, supported on arches proportionate to
their breadth. The intermediate stations are at Paisley,
Johnstone, Beith, Kilwinning, Irvine, Troon, and Prest-
wick. The whole line was completed at an expense of
£732,3S0, including only half the cost of the portion
between Glasgow and Paisley, the other half being con-
tributed by the Glasgow and Greenock Company : the
road was opened to Ayr on the 12th of August, 1840.
The Glasgow, Paisley, and Greenock Railway is connected
with the Ayr railway as far as Paisley, whence the line
diverges, and proceeds in a direction W. N. W., passing
through Port-Glasgow to Greenock, a distance of 22^
miles. In its course, including the viaducts at Glasgow
and Paisley, there are not less than sixty bridges : at
Bishopton-Ridge, where it attains its summit level, are
two short tunnels, and there are deep cuttings at Carts-
burn and Carnegie hills. In the summer of 1840, more
than 3000 men, 200 horses, and one locomotive and
three fixed engines, were employed on the line. The
portion between Glasgow and Paisley was opened on
the 14th of July, 1840, and the line was finished to
Greenock on the 31st of March, 1841 : the present
capital of the company is £866,666. Facilities of in-
tercourse are also afforded by numerous coaches, of
which, in 1834, there were sixty-one leaving and re-
turning to the city daily; and thirty-seven steam-boats
performed each two or three trips every day, Sundays
only excepted.
Public Buildings connected with Trade, &c.
The Town-hall and old Royal Exchange, in Trongate-
street, erected in 1636, and greatly improved in 1740,
3 R
G L A S
G L A S
for the accommodation of the merchants of the city, is
an elegant structure, and adorned by a piazza of the
Doric order, having the keystones of the arches orna-
mented with grotesque heads well sculptured : above the
piazza rises the chief story, embellished with pillars of
the Ionic order, supporting a handsome entablature and
cornice surmounted by an open balustrade enriched with
pilasters crowned by vases. The principal, or Town,
hall, which is occasionally used by the inhabitants for
holding public meetings, is fifty-four feet in length, and
twenty-seven feet wide, with a coved ceiling twenty-
four feet high. The walls are decorated with trophies,
and full-length portraits of James VI., Charles I. and II, ,
James II., William III. and his queen, Mary, Queen
Anne, George I., II., and III., and of Archibald, Duke
of Argyll, in his robes as lord justice-general : over the
mantel-piece is a bust, in bronze, of George III. ; and
at the east end of the hall, a statue, in marble, of Wil-
liam Pitt, by Flaxman. To the west of the old Exchange,
in the same building, were the old assembly-rooms, a
handsome suite, elegantly fitted up. The chief room is
forty-seven feet long, twenty-four feet wide, and twenty-
four feet high ; the walls are adorned with fluted Corin-
thian columns, sustaining an enriched ceiling, from
which are suspended three brilliant chandeliers of cut
glass. This room is now the principal hall of the
Tontine hotel. The New Exchange, a spacious edifice,
at the west end of the old part of the city, was erected
about fifteen years ago, and for the beauty of its design
is not surpassed by any structure in the kingdom : on
each side, lofty and handsome buildings have been raised,
to form a suitable square. This superb pile, which was
planned by Mr. David Hamilton, a native of Glasgow,
and cost £60,000, is wholly in the Grecian style of
architecture, and is entered by a noble portico, sur-
mounted by a lantern tower. The great room measures
130 feet in length, sixty feet in breadth, and thirty feet
in height in the centre, aud is supported on each side
by pillars of the Corinthian order. Close to the New
Exchange, and in the eastern part of the square, is an
equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, the in-
auguration of which took place October 8th, 1844 ; it
is a noble performance, and was raised by the muni-
ficence of the inhabitants, by whom the sculptor Maro-
chetti was engaged for the purpose. On one side of
the pedestal is represented, in bas-relief, the victory of
Assaye ; on the opposite side is depicted that of Water-
loo ; and the two remaining sides are occupied by repre-
sentations of the Soldier's Return, and the peaceful
pursuits of Agriculture.
The Tontine Coffee-rooms and Hotel form a hand-
some edifice, erected in 1781, after a design by Hamilton.
The coffee-room is seventy-four feet long, and of pro-
portionate width and height : at the north end, which
is circular, is a spacious window, divided by Doric
columns into compartments, within which are seats for
the subscribers ; and the room, which is amply sup-
plied with Scotch, English, and Irish newspapers, and
periodical publications of every kind, is lighted by richly-
cut glass chandeliers. The principal entrance, which is
from the piazza, leads into a vestibule of which the lofty
roof is sustained by pillars of the Doric order, with cor-
responding pilasters inserted at proper intervals in the
walls. The reading-room is supported by an annual
subscription of £1. 19,., but is open to strangers gra-
490
tuitously for a limited time ; the hotel contains nume-
rous suites of apartments, elegantly furnished, and re-
plete with every accommodation. There are numerous
banking establishments, of which the principal are,
branches of the Bank of Scotland, the British Linen
Company, the Commercial, the National, and the Royal
Banks of Scotland ; the City of Glasgow bank ; the
Clydesdale, the Glasgow Joint-stock, and the Glasgow
Union Companies. The old Post-office, situated on the
east side of South Albion-street, was a neat edifice of
stone, with a handsome cornice and pediment, in the
centre of the front. At one end of the building was a
covered entrance, and at the other a spacious lobby, in
which was a range of windows so contrived that persons
having boxes might see at once if there were any letters,
previously to the commencement of the general deli-
very. The present Post-office is in Glassford-street, where
a building formerly occupied as warehouses is fitted up
for the accommodation of the public.
The market, which is abundantly supplied with pro-
visions of all kinds, is on Wednesday ; and fairs are
held annually, on the second Wednesday in January,
the Thursday before Easter, the 26th of May or on the
Monday following, the first Monday after Whitsunday,
the second Monday in July, and on the Wednesday
after Martinmas. The Corn Exchange, in Hope-
street, was completed and opened for the use of the
corn merchants in November, 1842; it is a handsome
quadrangular structure of stone, erected under the
superintendence of Messrs. Brown and Carrick, by a
proprietary of £50 shareholders. The exterior is re-
lieved by a range of circular-headed windows : in the
centre of the principal front, at the entrance from Hope-
street, is a beautiful portico of Corinthian columns,
twenty-five feet high, supporting an entablature and
pediment ; and the walls all round are crowned with an
open balustrade. The interior contains a hall for the
meeting of the merchants, eighty feet in length and
fifty-seven wide, lighted by cupolas formed in the com-
partments of the ceiling, which is twenty-two feet high,
and by a magnificent lantern in the centre, fifty feet
long and thirty feet wide, sustained on eight fluted
columns of the Corinthian order. Around the hall are
ranged thirty-six stalls, let to tenants at a rent of £10
per annum, and so contrived as to afford every facility
of carrying on the business of the market : underneath
the hall is a store, capable of containing 800 tons of
grain. There are markets for butchers' meat and fish
situated in King-street, the former 112 feet, long and
fifty-seven feet wide, and the latter 173 feet by forty-
six. The area, which is inclosed with walls, and has
several handsome entrance gateways, is subdivided into
stalls, and paved with freestone ; the benches for the
fish are covered with lead, aud each stall has a separate
water pipe. The market for beef, in Bell- street, is of
plainer character. The vegetable and green market
formerly occupied the site of the ancient Wynd church;
and the butter, cheese, poultry, and egg market, once
in Montrose-street, has been removed to the Bowling-
green (now the Bazaar), in Candleriggs-street, covering
241 1 square yards. The slaughter-house, to the south of
Bridgegate-street, is a large building, erected in 1810,
and occupying 4736 square yards ; it contains seventy-
seven separate killing-rooms, two cattle-yards, and two
alleys leading to the killing-rooms, along the whole of
G L A S
GL A S
which are placed pipes for conveying water, with copi-
ous sewers, to carry off the offensive matter. The cattle-
market, erected in 1818, between the roads leading to
Edinburgh by the Gallowgate and Duke streets, is a
spacious area, containing '29,560 square yards, paved
with stone, and inclosed with walls. It has a good inn,
with stabling, and affords accommodation for the dis-
play of 120 oxen and nearly 10,000 sheep ; it is well
attended by dealers from distant places, and occasionally
cattle and pigs are sent from Ireland for sale. At the
east end of Ingram-street is the Tron or weigh house, a
large building which is also used as a storehouse.
Municipal Affairs.
The city of Glasgow, though declared to be a free
burgh by charter of William the Lion, still exercised the
privileges conferred upon it. solely under the influence
and controul of the bishops and archbishops of the see,
in favour of whom, indeed, the charter was especially
granted. Even after it was erected into a burgh of
regality by James II., the citizens continued to be
governed by bailies appointed by the bishops, who
generally selected the most powerful among the nobility
of the kingdom to fill that office, which eventually be-
came hereditary in the family of the dukes of Lennox.
After the resignation of this power by one of the dukes,
the choice of the magistrates was regularly made by the
crown till the year 1611, when, by an ample charter
bestowed by James VI., confirming all former gifts, the
burgesses were vested with the liberty of electing their
own magistrates. This charter was ratified and ex-
tended by Charles I., and afterwards confirmed by
charter of Charles II. ; and in 1690, by charter of Wil-
liam III., the citizens received all the privileges of a
royal burgh, with rights and immunities as full and
free as those of Edinburgh. Under this charter, as ex-
plained by usage since the Union, and as lately modified
by the Municipal Corporations' act, the government of
the city is vested in a lord provost, five bailies, a trea-
surer, a dean of guild elected by the Merchants' House,
a deacon-convener elected by the Trades' House, a bailie
of the river Clyde, and twenty-two other councillors,
assisted by assessors and town-clerks, a chamberlain and
superintendent of works, and other officers. The coun-
cil, thus consisting of thirty-two members, formerly
chosen by the corporation, have, since the passing of
the Municipal act, been chosen by the £10 householders
resident within the burgh. The provost and treasurer
continue in office for three years, and the third of the
council who have been longest in office retire annually,
in November : the chamberlain is appointed by the
magistrates and council during pleasure, but is generally
continued for life; the town-clerks, also, regard their
appointment as ad vitam aut cv.lpam. The corpora-
tion are patrons of all the churches of the Esta-
blishment within the royalty, except the High church ;
they have also the patronage of the Grammar or High
School, and the right of presentation to several bursaries,
or scholarships, in the university. The jurisdiction of
the magistrates extends over the ancient royalty, the
lands of Ramshorn, with other parts of the Barony
parish, and the lands of Blythswood.
The city is divided into five wards, each of which
chooses six of the town-councillors ; and the inhabitants
491
have the power, on certain payments, of joining either
of two classes, the merchants and the tradesmen, each
having a separate house, in which their interests are
respectively under the superintendence of a dean of
guild and a deacon-convener, who are e'ected, the dean
by the merchants and the convener by the trades, and
are members of the council. There are fourteen trades or
companies, duly incorporated, and which, as settled by
the letter of guildry, take precedence as follows ; the
hammermen, tailors, cordiners, maltmen, weavers, bax-
ters, skinners, Wrights, coopers, fieshers, masons, gar-
deners, barbers, and bonnet-makers. These companies
constitute the Trades' House. The origin of the Mer-
chants' House is involved in some obscurity : it appears,
prior to 17-47, to have consisted wholly of the burgesses
who followed the occupation of merchants ; but, by an
act of the house in that year, the corporation was
thrown open to all traders within the city, whether
natives or foreigners, wholesale or retail dealers, of fair
character, who should pay a subscription of four shil-
lings annually, and a fine of five shillings on admission,
which latter sum has been subsequently raised to ten
guineas. This house is under the superintendence of
the dean of guild, who has power to compel such of the
inhabitants as are not freemen, and exercise the privi-
leges of the city, to enter themselves as burgesses, and to
pay the fine. Most of the companies are possessed of
property to a considerable amount, and contribute largely
to the support of charitable institutions.
The magistrates exercise both civil and criminal juris-
diction within the burgh, the former to an unlimited
amount in personal actions, and the latter extending to
all offences not capital, or punishable by transporta-
tion. A court is held every other Thursday before
the dean of guild and his council, consisting of eight
members, four from the Merchants' and four from the
Trades' House. It grants warrants for the erection or
repair of buildings in the public thoroughfares, which
cannot be commenced without their order; also for the
removal of obstructions and nuisances ; and in this
court, prosecutions are instituted against such as trade
in the city without having obtained their freedom. The
business is conducted by the town-clerks, who act as
assessors. The Water-Bailie's court is held on stated
days, for civil and criminal business ; and in all cases
above the amount of ten shillings, the proceedings are
in writing : the causes are decided by the town-clerks,
as assessors ; and the jurisdiction of the court extends
from the port to the Cloch lighthouse, twenty-five miles
below Glasgow, for all offences committed on the river
or in the harbour. The Police establishment is managed,
in a very effective manner, by a board, elected from
each of the wards into which the city is divided, the
magistrates being members ex officio : the police build-
ings, erected at an expense of £14,000, and finished in
the month of January, 1S26, are of a superior kind, and
embrace every requisite accommodation, including a
court-room, numerous cells, &c.
Among the edifices connected with municipal affairs,
one of the most prominent is that designated the City and
County Buildings, an elegant structure recently erected,
and connected with the present Merchants' House, also
modern. The old Merchants' House, a. spacious and neat
building on the south side of Bridgegate-street, was
erected in 1 659, and sold only a few years ago : its chief
3R9
G L A S
G L A S
external ornament is its lofty tower, of three stages,
rising from each other in diminished proportions, and
terminating in a pyramidal spire, surmounted by a vane
representing a ship in full sail, and having an elevation of
164 feet from the base. The interior contained a spa-
cious hall, eighty feet in length and thirty wide, the walls
of which were hung with well-painted portraits of the
most munificent benefactors to the poor members of the
company : there were also various other apartments for
the transaction of the business of the institution. The
Trades House, on the west side of Glassford-street, was
erected on the site of a former building, after a design
by Messrs. Robert and James Adam ; it is a handsome
structure of stone, consisting of a central range and two
slightly-projecting wings, rising from a rusticated base-
ment. Over the entrance, in the centre of the edifice,
is a boldly-projecting portico of two duplicated columns
of the Ionic order, supporting an enriched entablature
and cornice, surmounted by a triangular pediment, above
which is an attic, with an open balustrade, having in
the centre a shield bearing the city arms, supported by
two female figures in a reclining attitude, well sculp-
tured. The whole is crowned by a spacious dome, rising
from the roof, and terminating in a cupola and lantern.
The hall, which is seventy feet in length, thirty-five feet
wide, and twenty-four feet high, is lighted in front by
three large Venetian windows, between which are other
windows of smaller dimensions, and by the lantern of
the dome, the interior of which is richly embellished ;
the walls are ornamented with pilasters of the Doric
order, supporting an entablature and cornice, and are
hung with portraits of the principal benefactors, and the
armorial bearings of the fourteen companies.
The old Tolbooth, to the east of the town-hall, an
ancient building containing the courts of justice for the
city and county, and also the prison for debtors and
malefactors, was five stories in height. It had square
turrets at the angles, and on the south side a boldly-
projecting and embattled porch, forming the principal
entrance, with a square tower surmounted by a spire,
rising from the battlements, and strengthened by flying
buttresses resembling an imperial crown, together 126
feet in height. In the tower, which is still preserved,
is an excellent clock, whereby the other clocks in the
town are regulated ; also a remarkably fine set of musi-
cal chimes, containing about thirty bells. This prison,
situated in the centre of the city, without court-yards,
chapel, or infirmary, not containing sufficient accommo-
dation for holding the courts, and having only thirty-
two apartments for prisoners of every description, was
abandoned by the corporation, and, with the exception
of the tower, sold to Mr. Cleland for £8000, in 1807.
A new building, containing the gaol and justiciary cir-
cuit courts has consequently been erected on a greatly-
enlarged plan, in a healthy situation, on the public
green adjoining the river. The new Prison, raised at an
expense of £34,800, contains spacious rooms for the
several courts, and 122 apartments for prisoners, admit-
ting of efficient classification, and furnished with water
and every requisite for cleanliness and health. Two
cells, parted from the rest of the gaol, and so con-
structed as to dispense with the use of irons, are reserved
for prisoners under sentence of death. The governor's
house commands a view of the several airing yards ; the
chapel is seated for 200 persons, and there is an infir-
492
mary, well ventilated, for the reception of the sick.
The old Bridewell, in Duke-street, opened in 1798, con-
tains 105 cells, and, though ill adapted for classification,
answered the purpose for which it was erected till, from
the great increase of population, it became too small,
when the authorities formed a resolution to erect a
bridewell capacious enough to receive the prisoners both
of the city and the county, for which purpose, having
procured an act of parliament, they erected the present
structure, which was opened in 1824. This building,
adjoining the former, is not only sufficiently ample and
spacious, but combines all the advantages of complete
classification, seclusion, security, and healthful accom-
modation. The House of Refuge, for the reclamation of
juvenile offenders, was erected by subscriptions exceed-
ing £10,000, on a site comprising four acres of ground
on the lands of White Hill ; the institution is also open
to the reception of orphan children and others whose
parents abandon them to vagrancy, and is conducted on
a plan combining every thing requisite for the resto-
ration of the depraved to habits of order and virtuous
industry.
Previously to the Reform act, Glasgow was united
with the burghs of Rutherglen, Renfrew, and Dumbar-
ton, in returning one member to the imperial parlia-
ment, who was elected by the burgesses; but since the
passing of that act, the city of itself has returned two
members, and the right of election has been in the £10
householders.
The University.
The University was ori-
ginally founded in 1451, by
Bishop Turnbull, who, under
the sanction of James II.,
procured for that purpose a
bull from Pope Nicholas V.,
and was appointed the first
regent or chancellor. The
bishop, with the assistance
of his chapter, prepared a
body of statutes for the go-
vernment of the institution,
which was placed under the
superintendence of a chancellor, rector, doctors, and
masters of the four faculties of theology, canon law,
civil law, and the arts, as enumerated in the papal
bull, and of which the several professors had taken
their degrees in other universities. To encourage the
professors, in 1453, the bishop obtained for every
beneficed clergyman belonging to the college, exemption
from all taxes and public burdens, and from residence
in their respective cures, provided they took care to
have the religious duties regularly performed. The
rector was sole judge in all civil and criminal causes in
which any member of the university was a party; and
the whole of the privileges and exemptions were con-
firmed by an act of James II., and renewed by succeeding
sovereigns. The institution, however, had no endow-
ment, but was supported solely by the small perquisites
and fees paid into the common fund on the conferring
of degrees, and the patronage of two or three small
chapelries : there was at first no building appropriated
for its use, and the officers held their meetings either
Seal.
GL A S
G L A S
in the chapter-house of the Black Friars', or in the
cathedral, till the year 1459, when James, the first lord
Hamilton, gave to the principal and the regent of the
college of arts, a spacious mansion in the High-street,
and four acres of land on Dow Hill.
On the Reformation, Archbishop James Beaton, who
was then chancellor, withdrew to France, taking with
him the plate of the cathedral, and the bulls, charters,
and other records, both of the see and of the university,
which he deposited partly in the convent of the Car-
thusian monks, and partly in the Scotch college, at
Paris, to be preserved till the restoration of papacy. At
this period, with the exception of the college of arts,
which was still maintained by the contributions of the
students, the university appears to have fallen to decay.
In this depressed state of its finances, Mary, Queen of
Scots, granted to the College of Arts, in 1560, the kirk
and manse of the Friars " Prsdicatores," with thirteen
acres of land, and the rents and annuities belonging to
that paternity, for the foundation of five bursaries for
poor students ; and in 15/2, the corporation of Glasgow
gave, for the support of the university, all the lands,
tenements, and other profits and emoluments of the
several chapels, altarages, and prebends in the churches
of the city. In 1577, James VI., a minor, granted, with
consent of the Earl of Morton, then regent, the rectory
and vicarage of the kirk of Govan; and conferred also
upon the university a new charter of foundation, which,
in its most essential points, is still in force j and from
that time the institution has continued to flourish.
Charles I. bestowed upon it all the temporalities of the
bishopric of Galloway ; William III. granted £300 from
the exchequer, payable annually, for its support ; and
in 1702, the number of students had amounted to 402.
Queen Anne, in 170S, assigned £210 per annum to-
wards the maintenance of a professor of anatomy and
botany ; and succeeding sovereigns have been liberal
benefactors. Alexander Macfarlane, of Jamaica, who
had built an observatory there, at his death bequeathed
the whole of his astronomical apparatus to the college,
on condition that they should erect an observatory ;
and in 17 60, a royal grant of £50 per annum was made
in aid of the support of a professor of astronomy. The
university has been also patronised by many distin-
guished individuals, among whom was the late Dr.
William Hunter, of London, who bequeathed to it the
whole of his valuable collection of specimens illustrative
of natural history, medals, anatomical preparations,
books, and manuscripts, with £8000 for the erection
of a museum for their reception.
The university, as at present constituted, is under
the superintendence of three distinct bodies, the
senate, the comitia, and the faculty. The members of
the senate are, the rector, the dean of the several
faculties, and the professors, of whom the rector is pre-
sident, or, in affairs for which he is competent, the
dean : they hold their meetings for the election and
admission of the chancellor, and dean of faculty, the
vice-chancellor, and vice-rector ; for the election of a
representative in the General Assembly ; for the con-
ferring of degrees, the management of the library, and
other matters belonging to the university. The comitia
consists of the rector, the dean, the principal, the pro-
fessors, and the matriculated students, of whom the
rector, or the vice-rector, is president. They meet for
493
the election and admission of the rector ; for the hear-
ing of public disputations in the several faculties, pre-
viously to the conferring of degrees ; for hearing the
inaugural discourses of the principal and professors,
before admission to their respective offices ; and for the
promulgation of the laws of the university, and other
acts of the university and college courts. The faculty
consists of the principal, and the professors of divinity,
church history, the oriental languages, natural and
moral philosophy, the mathematics, logic, Greek, hu-
manity, civil law, medicine, anatomy, and practical
astronomy : the principal is president, and has a casting,
but not a deliberative, vote. The members of faculty
have the administration of the revenues of the college,
with the exception of a few particular bequests in which
the rector or other officers are expressly named ; also
the patronage of eight professorships, of several bur-
saries, and of the parish church of Govan.
The principal officers of the university are, the chan-
cellor, vice-chancellor, rector, dean of faculties, prin-
cipal, the keeper of the museum, librarian, and sub-
librarian. The chancellor, who holds office for life, has
the sole privilege of conferring degrees on persons found
qualified by the senatus academicus ; the rector is
elected annually, and exercises academical jurisdiction
among the students, and also magisterial jurisdiction in
matters between the students and citizens. The dean
of faculty, who holds office for two years, regulates the
course of studies in the several faculties, and, together
with the rector, principal, and professors, decides upon
the qualification of the candidates for degrees. The
principal is appointed by the crown ; he is primarius
professor of divinity, and has the superintendence of
the deportment of the members of the college.
There are twenty-three professors in the four faculties
of arts, theology, law, and medicine : in the first of
these are the professorships of humanity, Greek, logic,
moral philosophy, natural philosophy, mathematics,
practical astronomy, and natural history; in theology
are the professorships of divinity, church history, and
the oriental languages ; in law is the single professor-
ship of civil law ; and in the faculty of medicine are the
professorships of anatomy, the theory and practice of
medicine, surgery, midwifery, chemistry, botany, materia
medica, and diseases of the eye. All these professor-
ships were founded previously to the year 1839 ; since
that period have been established those of the institutes
of medicine, forensic medicine, and civil engineering.
The chairs of divinity, natural and moral philosophy,
logic, Greek, humanity, mathematics, and oriental lan-
guages are in the gift of the faculty, rector, and dean ;
the rest, are presented to by the crown. Attached to
the college are sixty-nine bursaries, varying from
£5 to £40 per annum, tenable from four to six years ;
and some valuable exhibitions. Of the latter, the chief
were founded in 16S8, by Mr. John Snell, for the sup-
port of episcopacy in Scotland, for which purpose he
devised an estate near Leamington, in the county of
Warwick, now producing £1300 per annum, which sum
is appropriated to the education of ten students from
Glasgow at Baliol College, Oxford. The other exhi-
bitions were founded by John Warner, Bishop of Ro-
chester, who assigned £20 per annum to be paid to each
of four Scotch students at the same college ; and this
endowment is received by four of the above exhi-
G L A S
G L A S
bitioners, who have an income of £150 each, instead of
£130, tenable, like the other six exhibitions, which re-
main at £130, for ten years.
The library of the university was founded in the 15th
century, and contains a very extensive collection, in
which are many beautiful editions of the classics; the
number of volumes is increased by donations, and by
the purchase of works with a sum granted in lieu of the
privilege of receiving a copy of every book published in
the kingdom, and with fees from the students, who
are entitled to admission to the library. The botanic
garden, adjoining the college, was prepared for the use
of the botanical professor, in 1753; but from various
causes being inadequate, the botanic gardens opened of
late, as previously noticed, have been rendered avail-
able to the purposes of the university. The Hunterian
museum was founded by the celebrated William Hunter,
in the year 1/81 ; it is an exceedingly elegant struc-
ture of stone, erected from a design by Mr. William
Stark, after the model of a Roman temple of the
Doric order, and so contrived that from every point
of view it presents an appearance of simple magni-
ficence. The collection is valued at above £100,000;
and the museum, in which is a fine statue of James
Watt, in marble, by Chantrey, is open to the public for
daily inspection. The buildings of the university are
situated on the east side of High-street, towards which
is the principal front, 305 feet in length ; and they ex-
tend 282 feet in depth, inclosing an area of 9556 square
yards, divided into four courts, of which three are
quadrangular ranges three stories in height, and relieved
with turrets and other ornaments : on the east side of
the western quadrangle is a lofty tower. The erections
in the eastern division, which had stood for more than
two centuries, and had become dilapidated, were in great
part taken down and rebuilt in 1S11. The principal
front has three entrances, of which the central is
adorned with rusticated. masonry ; and the gateway,
over which are the royal arms in basso-relievo, gilt, is
surmounted by a balcony supported on corbels. The
east front is divided into three compartments, of which
the central projects, and is embellished with a lofty por-
tico of four massive columns of the Doric order, sus-
taining an entablature and cornice, with a triangular
pediment ; the receding compartments have corre-
sponding pilasters, with entablature and cornice, crowned
with an open balustrade. This range contains the com-
mon hall, the anatomical theatre, and the halls of the
professors of humanity, Greek, logic, chemistry, mathe-
matics, and medicine. At the southern extremity is the
college library, a handsome building, the front of which
is enriched with Corinthian pilasters, supporting an
angular pediment, with niches on each side : the new
library, to the south of the anatomical theatre, is a
building of plainer character. The great hall, and the
halls for the several faculties, fronting the High-street,
are spacious ; the walls are decorated with pilasters,
sustaining an enriched entablature and cornice, and are
hung with portraits of eminent professors and other
literary characters. The chapel, in which the professors
and students attend divine service, is fitted up with great
taste, and contains 990 sittings. The college gardens,
inclosed with a high stone wall, are laid out in gravel-
walks, parterres, and shrubberies ; and at the extremity
is Macfarlane's observatory.
494
The Andersonian University.
This institution was founded in 1795, by Mr. John
Anderson, professor of natural philosophy in the univer-
sity of Glasgow, who endowed it with a valuable library,
museum, and philosophical apparatus. It is placed un-
der the direction of eighty-one trustees, elected by ballot
from the several classes of tradesmen, agriculturists,
manufacturers, artists, physicians and surgeons, law-
yers, and divines ; and nine managers are annually
chosen, with a president, treasurer, and secretary. The
trustees appointed Dr. Garnet, professor of natural
philosophy and chemistry in the Royal Institution of
London, as principal lecturer ; and he was succeeded
in 1799, by the late Dr. Birkbeck, who introduced a
familiar course of instruction, demonstrated by experi-
ments. In 1828, the trustees purchased the buildings
of the old city grammar school, fronting George-street,
for the permanent use of the institution, and which have
been enlarged and adapted to that purpose. They
contain various class-rooms, a library, museum, and a
hall for the delivery of lectures on the different branches
of popular science, natural philosophy, logic, ethics,
rhetoric, mathematics, modern and oriental languages,
painting, drawing, medicine, chemistry, anatomy, sur-
gery, and midwifery, which are well attended by the
respective classes.
Ecclesiastical Arrangements, Churches, &c.
The ancient see of Glasgow, after the abdication of
Archbishop Beaton, in 1560, was governed by prelates
appointed, at first by the Earl of Lennox, in whose
family the temporalities were vested, and subsequently
by the crown ; and from the time of the Reformation
to the Revolution, it was under the superintendence of
fourteen Protestant archbishops, of whom the last, John
Paterson, was consecrated in 1687. There were thirty-
nine prebendaries belonging to the cathedral, all of whom
had residences in its immediate vicinity ; but their
houses were given to various noblemen and gentlemen
who had influence at court, and the venerable cathedral
itself was preserved from destruction only by the
spirited resistance of the citizens already referred to.
The cathedral, thus preserved as one of the proudest
ornaments of the city, is a stately cruciform structure
in the early English style of architecture, 319 feet in
length and sixty-three feet in width, with a square tower
rising from the intersection of the nave and transepts,
surmounted by a lofty spire, and with a tower also at
the west end of the north aisle. The nave, of which
part was till lately appropriated as the Outer High
church, is ninety feet in height, and is divided from the
aisles by noble ranges of clustered columns that support
the roof : the choir, which has been appropriated as the
Inner High church, is eighty-five feet in height, and of
richer detail than the nave, the columns that sustain the
roof being embellished with flowered capitals. The
entrance into the choir is through a fine screen of the
later English style; and the west doorway into the
nave, which has been stopped up, is adorned with
canopied niches : indeed, all the details of this interest-
ing structure are in the best character of the English
style. The crypt, which was for more than two cen-
turies used as the church of the Barony parish, is un-
G L A S
G L A S
rivalled for elegance of design by that of any other
cathedral of the kingdom ; it is well lighted from the
abrupt slope of the ground, and is, perhaps, one of the
richest specimens of the early English style in existence.
The piers are of beautiful character, and the groinings,
which are elaborately intricate, are enriched with bosses
and other ornaments ; the capitals of the piers are em-
bellished with flowers, and the doors with foliage. This
portion of the ancient structure has been carefully
cleared from the rubbish that had been suffered to
accumulate ; and since the completion of a new church
in High John-street, by the corporation, in lieu of the
Outer High church in the cathedral, which had been
pronounced to be deeply infected with the dry rot, and
consequently unsafe, the whole of the nave, containing
many interesting monuments and other valuable details
in a ruinous state from neglect, and other parts of the
edifice have, under the superintendence of architects
appointed by government, been renovated and restored
to their pristine beauty.
The city is the seat of a presbytery, including the
ten parishes in Glasgow, and the twelve surrounding pa-
rishes of Barony, Gorbals, Rutherglen, Cumbernauld,
Carmunnock, Cadder, Campsie, Govan, Kirkintilloch,
Kilsyth, Cathcart, and Eaglesham. The parish of the
Inner High church, originally the parish of Glasgow, but
now comprising only about 1000 acres in extent, is
principally occupied by buildings, the rural districts not
containing more than 100 persons, out of a population
of 15,444. The minister's stipend is £350, with a glebe
which is let for building, and produces a net rental of
£138. 5. per annum ; patron, the Crown. The church,
as already stated, is the choir of the cathedral ; it was
repaired in 1S05, and contains 1143 sittings. A room
has been fitted up in the Caledonian pottery for divine
service, which was regularly performed by a minister
of the Establishment until 1838 ; and a missionary also
officiated at two preaching stations within the parish.
The parish of the Outer High church, or the parish of
St. Paul, containing a population of 9583, was erected
in 1648, out of the original parish of Glasgow : the
minister is appointed by the corporation, who are the
patrons also of the parishes of College, Tron, St. David,
St. George, St. Andrew, St. Enoch, St. John, and St.
James, to the minister of each of which, as well as to
the minister of St. Paul's, they pay a stipend of £425.
The present church was erected by the corporation, and
dedicated to St. Paul, in 1836 ; it is a handsome struc-
ture, and contains 1198 sittings. There are places of
worship for members of the Free Church, Glassites,
Old Scotch Independents, Baptists, Scottish Baptists,
the Society of Friends, and others. The parish of the
College, or Blackfriars, is a town parish, within which the
buildings of the university are situated, and is densely
populous, numbering 10,574 persons: the. church, nearly
in the centre of the parish, was built in 1699, by pri-
vate subscription, and has been occasionally repaired,
and lately reseated ; it is a plain edifice containing 130'
sittings. There are places of worship for members of
the United Secession, the Independent United Brethren,
and the Independent Relief. The parish of the Tron
church was formed out of the old parish of Glasgow in
1602, and includes a portion of the city, containing
9990 persons : the church, situated near the north-
eastern extremity of the parish, was erected in 1794,
495
and within the last twenty years has undergone some
internal alterations and repairs; it contains 1366 sit-
tings. The members of the Free Church have a place
of worship. The parish of St. David, which contains a
population of 976+, was divided from the older city
parishes in 1720, by the presbytery and the court of
Teinds : the church, erected in 1825, is a neat structure
containing 1148 sittings. There are places of worship
for members of the Free Church, the United Secession,
Independents, the Relief, Swedenborgians, Hebrews,
Bereans, Wesleyans, and a congregation calling them-
selves Christians.
The parish of St. George, of which the population is
20,3/0, was disjoined from the Old Wynd parish by the
court of Teinds, in 1687, and consists of three separate
districts which are intersected by parts of the Barony
parish : the church was built in 1807, from the city
funds, and has not been altered since its erection j it is
a handsome edifice containing 1317 sittings. A church,
dedicated to St. Peter, has been erected by the Church
Building Society, at an expense of about £3200, includ-
ing the site ; and a portion of the parish, comprising
4366 persons, was for a time annexed to it as an eccle-
siastical district. There are also places of worship for
members of the Free Church, Baptists, Independents,
and Original Seceders. The parish of St. Andrew, which
is entirely a town parish, and has a population of 7317,
was founded in 1765, and is about half a mile in length,
and of nearly equal breadth. The church was finished in
1756, out of the funds of the city, and was reseated in
1333 ; it has a lofty tower surmounted by a spire, and
a noble portico of six Corinthian columns, supporting
an entablature and cornice, with a triangular pediment ;
it is situated in the centre of St. Andrew's-square, and
contains 1210 sittings. There are places of worship for
members of the Free Church, Church Presbyterians, and
an episcopal chapel. The parish of St. Enoch was
formed by the court of Teinds, in 1782, and is about
half a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in breadth,
containing 8877 persons. The church, originally erected
from the city funds, in 1782, and rebuilt, with the ex-
ception of the steeple, in 1828, is a stately structure
with a lofty tower of several stages, terminating in a
pyramidal spire, surmounted by a vane ; it is finely
situated on the south side of St. Enoch's-square, and
contains 1224 sittings. There is a place of worship for
members of the Free Church ; and the Roman Catho-
lics have two chapels, the one a spacious edifice in the
later English style, erected in 1816, at an expense, in-
cluding the residence for the priest, of £17,000, and the
other a smaller building, purchased in 1824, at a cost
of £500. The parish of St. John, formed out of three
contiguous parishes by the court of Teinds, in 1819, is
about three-quarters of a mile in length, and one-quarter
of a mile in breadth, and contains a population of 16,228:
the church, which is situated near the western extremity
of the parish, was built in 1819, from the city funds,
and has undergone no alteration ; it contains 1636 sit-
tings. There are places of worship for members of the
Free Church, Original Burghers, the United Secession,
and the Relief, and an episcopal chapel. The parish of
St. James was erected by the court of Teinds, in 1S19,
and is about one mile in length, and half a mile in
breadth ; it comprehends nearly the whole of the Public
Green, and comprises about 115 acres, and 11,216 per-
G L A S
GL A S
sons. The church was built in 1812, by the Wesley-
ans, from whom it was purchased by the corporation in
1819, and erected into a parish church; it is a neat
structure, and contains 1371 sittings. There are places
of worship for members of the Free Church, the Relief,
and the Reformed Presbyterians. The parish of Gorbals
is described under its own head.
Among the quoad sacra parishes which were created
out of the ten parishes just noticed, and till lately existed
in the city, was that of Albion, formed in 1834, out of
the parishes of the Outer High church and St. David,
and having a population of 4792 : the church had been
built in 1768, and enlarged in 1823, and is a handsome
structure containing 1S00 sittings. The quoad sacra
parish of St. George in the Fields was separated from the
parish of St. George, and was about half a mile in
length, and less than a quarter of a mile in breadth,
containing 4745 persons. The church was built in 1824,
as a chapel of ease, partly by donations, and partly by
funds borrowed for the purpose, at an expense of £2350;
it is a neat edifice, and has 1226 sittings. The parish
of Si!. Thomas was formed from St. John's ; it was
wholly a town parish, and about half a mile in length,
and a quarter of a mile in breadth, with a population of
3762. The church was erected in 1 823, as a chapel of
ease, chiefly under the auspices of the Rev. Dr. Chalmers,
at a cost of £3320, raised by donations and by subscrip-
tion of twenty-one shareholders of £100 each; it con-
tains 1398 sittings. St. Ann's was formed from the
parishes of St. Andrew and St. James, and was of
moderate extent : the church, originally built by the
Wesleyans in 1819, was bought for the use of the
Establishment in 1831, at a cost, including repairs, of
£1500; it has accommodation for 776" persons. Bridge-
gate, having a population of 5396, was formed from the
parish of St. James : this church, also, was recently
purchased from the Wesleyans, at a cost, including re-
pairs, of £2300 ; it is a neat building, and contains S90
sittings. All these quoad sacra parishes, formed in, or
subsequently to, the year 1834, have been completely
abolished.
The barony civil and ecclesiastical parish was sepa-
rated in 1595 from the burgh of Glasgow, which pre-
viously formed the only parish, including both the
royalty and the barony ; it contains a great portion of
the suburbs and parliamentary borough, with a wide
rural district, and is eight miles and a half in length
and four and a half in breadth, comprising nearly 14,000
acres, and having a population of 106,075. The minister
of the parish receives a stipend of £310, with an allow-
ance for a manse, and a glebe of considerable value.
Previously to 1800, the crypt of the cathedral was
appropriated as the place of worship of this parish, but
in that year the present church was erected, and in
1830 it was repaired and enlarged; it is a neat struc-
ture, situated about a mile from the nearest, and five
miles from the farthest, boundary of the parish, and
contains 1403 sittings. There are numerous places of
worship for members of the Free Church, and also for
Baptists, Burghers, Independents, Reformed Presby-
terians, the United Secession, and Unitarians, and an
episcopal chapel. The late quoad sacra parish of St,
Mark, separated from the parish in 1835, was wholly a
town parish, about 400 yards in length, and 200 yards
in breadth, having a population of 3315 : the church was
496
originally built by dissenters, from whom, in 1835 it
was purchased by the Church Building Society, at a
cost, including repairs, of £1260; it contains 1032 sit-
tings. The quoad sacra parish of St. Stephen, contain-
ing 3975 persons, was formed in 1836 : the church had
been built in 1835, at an expense of nearly £3000, and
is a handsome edifice with 1156 sittings. From the
Barony parish were also separated, for ecclesiastical
purposes, the parishes of Anderston, Colton, Camlachie,
Maryhill, Shettleston, Bridgeton, St. Luke, St. Matthew,
and Renfield, most of which are fully described under
their own heads ; but all these quoad sacra divisions,
like those referred to in the preceding paragraph, have
been abrogated.
Within the royalty and barony are likewise the
churches of Duke-street, St. Columba, and Hope-street,
established for the accommodation of the Gaelic popu-
lation of the city and suburbs. Of these, the Duke-
street place of worship, then a chapel of ease, was erected
into a parish church by the General Assembly in 1834,
and so continued for a short time, though, from the
scattered residences of the congregation, it was found
impossible to assign to it any particular district ; the
minister's stipend is paid from the seat-rents and
collections. The church was built in 1798, at an ex-
pense of £2400, raised by subscription, and repaired in
1814 and 1820, at a cost of £600 ; it is a neat struc-
ture, and contains 1277 sittings: the morning service
is performed in the Gaelic language, and the after-
noon service in English. The church of St. Columba,
formerly in Ingram-street, but at present situated in
Hope-street, was also for a time a parochial church ;
the minister's stipend averages £222, and the church,
built in 1767, and rebuilt in 1781, by subscription, con-
tains 1078 sittings. The West Gaelic chapel of Hope-
street was likewise made a parish church, in 1835, by
act of the General Assembly ; the minister's stipend is
£300, paid by the managers from the seat-rents, and
secured by bond to that amount. The 'church was built
in 1824, at an expense of £4826, of which £300 were
raised by subscriptions and donations, and the remainder
by loan ; it is a handsome structure, and contains 1435
sittings. The various burying-grounds in the city and
suburbs have, from the great increase of building, been
almost surrounded with houses ; and several that were
originally in retired situations are now inclosed in the
very heart of the city. To remedy this inconvenience,
a spacious public cemetery has been formed by the Mer-
chants' House, who, in 1S30, appropriated a portion of
their park, adjoining the cathedral, to the purpose :
this ground, which is called the Necropolis, is laid out
with much taste, and the requisite buildings are of a
character harmonizing with the solemnity of the use to
which they are applied. The situation of the cemetery
is highly picturesque, overlooking the venerable cathe-
dral and the old surrounding burial-ground ; the several
walks and drives are beautiful and varied ; and the
plants and shrubberies, with the various ornaments in
a diversity of styles, render the whole exceedingly in-
teresting and attractive. Within the cemetery are, a
lofty pillar surmounted with a statue, by Forrest, of
John Knox, and a handsome monument with a statue,
by the same artist, of William Mc Gavin, besides many
others : the monument of the Reformer is seen for many
miles eastward of the city.
G L A S
G L A S
Schools and Benevolent Institutions.
The Grammar or High School is of great antiquity,
and appears to have been originally founded as an
appendage to the cathedral, and under the immediate
superintendence of the chancellor of the diocese, by
whom the masters were appointed. After the founda-
tion of the university it continued as a distinct establish-
ment, though the masters were frequently among the
number of those who elected the regents of the univer-
sity, and examined the candidates for degrees. In 1595,
John Blackburn, who was master of the grammar school,
was also lord rector of the university : at that period,
the scholars commenced their studies at five o'clock in
the morning ; and this practice appears to have lasted
during the government of Blackburn, who, on his ap-
pointment to the ministry of the Barony church, in
161 5, resigned the mastership. From 1700, the school
was occasionally under the controul of a rector, which
office was abolished in 1830 ; and from that time there
were four masters, each of whom had the entire charge
of his own class for the whole period of its continuance
in the school, which was generally for the term of four
years. In 1S34, a material change was made in the
condition of the seminary ; two of the four masterships
for Greek and Latin were suppressed, and in their place
were substituted teachers of English grammar, the
French, Italian, and German languages, writing, geogra-
phy, and the mathematics. Its designation was altered
to that of the High School, and its affairs placed under
the superintendence of a committee of the town-council,
assisted by the clergy of the city, and the professors of
the university. The classical masters, who are appointed
by the council, have each a salary of £50, paid from the
funds of the corporation ; and they receive, in addition,
a fee of 13s. 6d. quarterly from each of the scholars, of
whom about 300 are on the average in attendance.
The buildings of the school, situated in Grey Friars'
W3'nd, becoming insufficient for the purpose, were aban-
doned in the year 17S8, and a handsome structure
erected for its use on the north side of George-street ;
but this edifice was disposed of in 1S2S, to the Ander-
sonian Institution, and new schoolrooms were raised in
John-street. The buildiug in George- street, when used
as the school, contained a hall, seventy feet in length,
and seven spacious class-rooms, with apartments for
the masters ; and behind the building was a play-
ground, comprising an area of 3773 square yards, in-
closed with a dwarf wall surmounted by iron palisades.
A school is supported by the Fleshers' Company, who
pay the master a salary of £S0 per annum, for the
gratuitous education of the children attending it. There
are also schools for the clothing and instruction of chil-
dren, in connexion with some of the charitable founda-
tions in the city ; and in the several parishes are paro-
chial and other schools, affording education, either
gratuitously or on very moderate terms, to nearly 9000
children of both sexes ; more than 100 Sabbath schools,
in which 5000 children receive religious instruction ;
and tea or twelve infant schools, all of which are well
attended. The salaries of the parochial schoolmasters
vary from £25 to £35, and the amount of fees from
£30 to £80 per annum ; and the quarterly payments of
the scholars from two to fifteen shillings each. A Nor-
mal seminary was erected in 1S37, by the Glasgow
Vol. I.— 497
Educational Society, for preparing teachers to practise
the system of moral, intellectual, and physical training
pursued by the society.
The Royal Infirmary was established in 1792, and
is supported by voluntary subscriptions, and partly by
the fees of students attending it as a school of medi-
cine and surgery. It has a permanent fund of about
£16,000 from accumulated donations and bequests, and
is under the superintendence of twenty-five directors,
consisting of the lord provost, the members of parlia-
ment for the city, the dean of guild and convener, the
professors of medicine and anatomy in the universitj',
and members of the town-council, the Merchants' and
Trades' Houses, and the faculty of physicians and sur-
geons, with ten others chosen by ballot at the general
meeting. The internal arrangements are under the
management of two physicians, four surgeons, an apo-
thecary, chaplain, matron, and other officers ; and its
general disbursements are about £3600 per annum.
The building, erected in 1792, partly on the site of the
archbishop's palace, is a handsome structure designed by
Messrs. Robert and James Adam, of quadrangular form,
consisting of a centre and two boldly-projecting wings :
in the centre is a stately portico of Corinthian columns,
supporting an enriched entablature and cornice, sur-
mounted by a triangular pediment, in the tympanum of
which are the royal arms in alto-relievo. The building,
which is four stories high, is crowned in the middle with
a spacious dome and lantern, which gives light to the
hall of operations. It originally contained only eight
wards, giving accommodation to 136 in-patients; but,
being found inadequate to the wants of the increased
population, it was enlarged by the addition of four
wards, erected in the rear of the building, at an expense
of £4000 ; and it is now adapted for the reception of
220 patients.
The Lunatic Asylum was established in 1S10, and
is under a committee of management, of which the lord
provost is president. It is supported partly by sub-
scription and donations, but chiefly by the payments for
the several patients, which vary from eight shillings to
half a guinea per week, for paupers, according to the
contributions towards its erection made by the parishes
from which they are sent, and from that amount to
three guineas, weekly, for other patients, according to
their rank. The internal ai-rangements are superin-
tended by a physician and other medical officers, a
housekeeper, and requisite attendants ; the disburse-
ments average £2000 per annum, and, one year, exceeded
the income by about £400. The present buildings, situ-
ated about three miles west of Glasgow, have been but
just erected. The old buildings, lately sold to the direc-
tors of the Town's hospital, their situation not being
sufficiently private, were erected in 1810, at an expense,
including the site, of £18,359, after a design by Mr.
William Stark ; they occupy an area of three and a half
acres, and consist partly of a central range crowned
with a majestic dome, and commanding an unobstructed
view of the several wards, which radiate from it as a
centre. The dining-rooms, parlours, and bed-rooms,
in the new building, for patients of a higher class, are
spacious and well furnished ; and the institution is con-
ducted with minute regard to the health, comfort, and
recreation of all the inmates. The Magdalene Asylum
was originallv projected by a society of gentlemen who
3 S
GL A S
GL AS
purchased a site for its erection behind the cathedral ;
but, some difficulties arising, the design was not carried
into effect till 1812, when a more commodious site was
obtained, and the as3'lum erected. The institution is
supported by subscription, and the annual disburse-
ments average £600 j the inmates are employed in tam-
bouring, knitting, sewing, making clothes for the esta-
blishment, and in other useful works suited to their
capacity. The building, to the east of the old lunatic
asylum, is of neat appearance, consisting of a centre
with projecting wings : it is three stories in height,
and contains a handsome committee-room, apartments
for the matron and for thirty-four inmates, and a chapel
containing 1 50 sittings. The whole is surrounded with
a high wall, inclosing an area of about an acre, laid
down in grass for the purpose of bleaching linen, in
which some of the inmates are employed. The Lock
Hospital was founded in 1805, and is maintained by
subscription : the buildings, on the south side of Rot-
ten-row, comprise a committee-room, with rooms for
the housekeeper and surgeon, and apartments for the
patients. St. Nicholas Hospital was founded in the
reign of James III., by Bishop Muirhead, who amply
endowed it for a priest and twelve aged laymen : the
endowment has, from causes not known, been greatly
diminished, and at present produces only about £30
per annum, which sum is distributed, in pensions of
£3 each, to ten aged men by the magistrates and town-
council. The buildings, which had become a ruin, were
removed to make room for a street.
Hutcheson's Hospital was founded in 1641, by
George and Thomas Hutcheson, brothers, who be-
queathed certain lands and money for its endowment.
The money was invested by the corporation, in con-
junction with the other trustees, in the purchase of land
in the barony of Gorbals, on which the suburb of
Hutchesonton was built ; and the original endowment has
been augmented by benefactions, of which the principal
have been 10,000 merks by Mr. James Blair, £2700 by
Mr. Daniel Baxter, and the half of his heritable and
personal property by Mr. John Snow. The income, now
amounting to about £3000 per annum, is partly dis-
tributed in life pensions to decayed burgesses of three
years' standing, and fifty years of age ; and the widows
and daughters of burgesses are also admitted as pen-
sioners. The hospital is under the controul of the
magistrates and council, and the ministers of the city
churches. Connected with the institution, and sup-
ported from its funds, is a school of eighty boys, sons
of burgesses, who have been previously for six months
in an English school, and are above seven years of age ;
they are clothed, instructed, and placed out as appren-
tices with premiums. The buildings of the hospital are
situated in Ingram-street, and consist of a handsome
range, rising from a rusticated basement, and orna-
mented with Corinthian columns, supporting an entab-
lature and cornice, and surmounted by an enriched
attic : on each side of the central entrance are niches to
receive statues of the founders, and from the rear of
the edifice rises a tower, 156 feet in height, crowned by
a pyramidal spire. The great hall and committee-rooms
are elegantly fitted up, for the accommodation of the
patrons and managers ; and adjoining the hall are the
buildings appropriated to the use of the school. In
1"?8, Mr. George Wilson, merchant of London, a native
498
of this city, bequeathed to the magistrates and council,
in trust, £3000 for the clothing and education of poor
boys, to which have been added subsequent donations ;
and from these funds, forty-eight boys are clothed and
instructed in the school established for that purpose.
A bequest by Sir John Scott, of lands, for the appren-
ticing of boys, has, since the improved state of trade
rendered the payment of premiums unnecessary, been
appropriated by the magistrates and council to the
placing of twelve additional scholars in the school
founded by Mr. Wilson, and also in the school of
Hutcheson's hospital.
The Highland Society was established by a few gen-
tlemen of the Highlands, for the clothing, educating,
and apprenticing of indigent sons of Highlanders ; and
is supported by the payment of £2. 2. by each member
on admission, and by annual subscriptions and dona-
tions. There are about sixty boys on the funds, who
are clothed, instructed, and apprenticed, and to each of
whom, on the expiration of his indentures with credit,
is given a silver medal. The late Marine Society, for the
encouragement of mariners, and the support of the
widows and children of seamen, was founded in 1758,
and maintained by a payment of fourpence on each
ton of merchandise shipped from the Clyde, a contri-
bution of fourpence per month from the wages of each
seaman, and occasional donations and bequests. It
distributed about £150 annually, in pensions of £3 to
the widow of a master, £2 to the widow of a mate, and
£1. 10. to the widow of a common seaman. The
Society of the Sons of the Clergy was instituted in 1790,
by several ministers of the Established Church, for the
relief of the widows and children of clergymen who
might be in indigent circumstances ; and is supported
by payment of £5. 5. by each of the members on ad-
mission, by annual collections in the churches, and by
donations and bequests : the society distributes an-
nually about £200. Buchanan's Society was established
in 1725, for the relief of indigent persons of that name,
or of others descended from or connected with the
clan ; it is supported by payments of £5 by members
on admission, the produce of some land and houses,
and by donations and bequests. The society, in 1815,
founded a bursary of £25 per annum, tenable for four
years, in the university of Glasgow, and which was first
held by a youth of the name, a descendant of the
founder. Mr. William Mitchel, in 1729, bequeathed
£3000, of which he appropriated the interest to be
divided among decayed burgesses and their families :
and in 1741, Mr. Robert Tennent bequeathed 21,000
merks, of which he appropriated 5000 to the support
of two schools, 6000 to the maintenance of three
widows, and 10,000 to be lent in small sums to poor
tradesmen, for five years, without interest. In 1788,
Mr. James Coulter bequeathed to the lord provost and
magistrates, in trust, £1200 to be distributed among
deserving persons in indigent circumstances, in life
pensions of not less than £4, and not more than £10
per annum. There are also numerous other charitable
bequests, friendly societies, institutions for the relief of
sick strangers, and for various pious purposes.
The Town Hospital was originally established in 1733,
in a building which, though capacious and in an airy
situation at that time, became, from the increase of the
population, quite inadequate for the purpose, and was
G L A S
G L A S
soon, from the extent of building subsequently erected,
closely surrounded. The directors consequently pur-
chased a spot of land in a more eligible situation, com-
prising 12,000 square yards, surrounded with a wall,
and for which they paid £3000, and then erected a new
hospital and workhouse, at a cost of £10,000. These
buildings, however, proving inadequate like the former,
the directors, in 1840, purchased the building and part
of the grounds of the old lunatic asylum, as already men-
tioned in the account of that institution. The hospital is
supported by donations from the public bodies and indi-
viduals of the city and suburbs, and by an assessment ;
and is under the management of a preceptor, vice-pre-
ceptor, and forty-eight directors, of whom twelve are
chosen from each of the four bodies of the town-council,
the Merchants' House, Trades' House, and the General
Session, and who hold quarterly meetings, at which
they elect the various officers. The internal superin-
tendence is conducted by a committee of eight members,
two each from the four bodies ; there are generally
about 500 poor in the house, and 600 out-pensioners,
and the annual assessment averages £10,000. In 1817,
which was a year of peculiar distress, in addition to
these funds for the relief of the poor, a subscription was
raised, which amounted to £12,871 ; and there were, in
that year, 5140 families upon the books of the establish-
ment. Glasgow confers the title of Earl on the family
of Boyle.
GLASS, a parish, chiefly in the district of Strath-
bogie, county of Aberdeen, but partly in Banff-
shire, 5 miles (W.) from Huntly ; containing S86
inhabitants, of whom 321 are in the county of Banff.
This parish, of which the name, in the Gaelic language,
signifying "grey," is descriptive of the uncultivated
portion of its surface, is about eight miles in extreme
length, and five miles in extreme breadth, comprising an
area of nearly 19,000 acres, of which 4500 are arable,
and the remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. The sur-
face is diversified with hills, which, towards the west,
increase in elevation, forming its boundary in that direc-
tion ; and it is also bounded on the south by a range of
hills, which separate it from Gartly and Rhynie. The
vale of Straihbogie forms part of the eastern portion ;
and there are several other fertile straths between the
hills, of which the vale of the Doveran is the most im-
portant, and is inclosed by hills on each side, which
vary from 1200 to 2000 feet in height above the level of
the sea. The river Doveran, which has its source in the
hills of Cabrach, flows in a serpentine course through
this vale, and, leaving the parish, eventually falls into the
Moray Frith at Banff. From the hills issue numerous
springs, of which those near the summit are frequently
dry during the summer, while those at the base flow
without interruption through the lower grounds.
The soil generally is a light loam, yielding chiefly
oats and bear, with potatoes and turnips ; wheat has
been sown, but has not been productive of remunerating
crops. The system of husbandry is improved ; the
farms are of moderate extent, not many exceeding 150
acres ; and the farm-buildings, usually of stone, with
thatched roof's, are substantial and commodious. Con-
siderable numbers of sheep were formerly reared in the
pastures; but, from great losses frequently sustained
during severe seasons, a few hundreds only, of the
Highland black-faced breed, are now kept; and the pas-
499
turcs are more profitably stocked with cattle. There
are a few acres of natural wood ; and 100 acres of land
have recently been planted with pine, larch, and forest
trees, to which very large additions are in contempla-
tion. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£1877- The ecclesiastical affairs are under the super-
intendence of the presbytery of Strathbogie and synod
of Moray. The minister's stipend is £197- l7-> with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum ; patron,
the Duke of Richmond. The church, situated in a
green, near the river, is a neat plain structure contain-
ing 550 sittings ; it was built in 1782, and is in good
repair. The members of the Free Church have a place
of worship. The parochial school is well attended; the
master has a salary of £34, with a house, and an allow-
ance in money in lieu of garden, and the fees average
about £28 annually.
GLASSARY. — -See Kilmichael-Glassary.
GLASSERTON, a parish, in the county of Wigton,
if mile (S. W.) from Whithorn; containing, with the
village of Monrieth, 1253 inhabitants. The name of
this place is thought to signify, in the Saxon language,
"a bare hill;" and it is supposed that the term was
adopted from the number of bare hills in the vicinity.
Very little is known of the early history of the parish.
It is said, however, that St. Ninian, here usually called
St. Ringan, the founder of Whithorn Priory, and first
bishop of Galloway, resided for a time in a cave on the
shore, at Physgill, for the purpose of mortification or
penance ; and the cave, which is arched with stones,
is still vulgarly called St. Ringan's cave. The present
parish was formed by the union of the lands of Glasser-
ton and Kirkmaiden. The walls of Kirkmaiden church
are yet in existence, on the shore, near Monrieth ; and
it is clear that it was formerly a distinct parish ; though
when it was united with Glasserton cannot now be
ascertained. The parish is about eight miles in length,
varying in breadth from one to three miles, and con-
tains 13,477 acres. It has the parish of Mochrum on
the west ; Sorbie and Kirkinner on the north ; Whit-
horn on the east; and the bay of Luce on the south.
Its coast, which is bold and rugged, and broken by nu-
merous headlands and green peaks, lies parallel with
the north coast of the Isle of Man, the island being
between sixteen and eighteen miles south of Glasserton.
The general appearance of the country is unequal, the
ground presenting a succession of heights and hollows.
There is a small lake near Castle-Stewart house, in the
north, in which are found eels, trout, pike, and perch :
the loch of Dowalton, also, forms a small part of the
boundary of the parish ; and the road from Stranraer
to Newton-Stewart intersects it.
The soil varies very considerably in different parts.
On the lands in the north it is damp and poor, having a
tenacious subsoil of till, which holds the moisture too
near the surface ; in the more southern parts it is a gra-
velly loam, frequently mixed with clay and moss. Be-
tween 7000 and 8000 acres are under cultivation ; the
waste extends over about 3000, and from 200 to 300
are planted. The crops follow the rotation of oats ;
potatoes or turnips; rye-grass and clover, with wheat
and barley; and a crop of hay ; after which the ground
returns to pasture. Agriculture has been much im-
proved within the last thirty years, especially since the
practice of raising green crops became general. Much
3 S 2
GL A S
GL A S
moss and heath have been brought into cultivation ; arid
the natural obstacles to good farming arising from the
nature of the soil have been successfully treated by
skill and perseverance. The proper application of
manure, and the attention paid to divisions and inclo-
sures, have also contributed to produce a highly-
advanced state of husbandry, and have amply rewarded
the labour of the cultivator. Dairy-farming is pursued
in man}' parts in preference to breeding, on account of
its greater profit ; the cows are chiefly the Ayrshire.
The sheep in most repute are the Leicesters and the
Highland breed ; a few, purchased at Falkirk, are fat-
tened on turnips during the winter. The cattle are the
black Galloways, for which the parish has always been
famous. The rateable annual value of Glasserton is
£8519. The subsoil of the lands is for the most part
strong till and rock, clay, and gravel, presenting many
impediments to agricultural improvement, which can
only be successfully met by a highly-efficient system of
husbandry : the strata are the greywacke rock, among
which a piece of granite is occasionally found. In the
parish are the mansions of Glasserton and Physgill, both
handsome modern erections.
The ecclesiastical affairs are governed by the pres-
bytery of Wigton and synod of Galloway, and the
patronage is in the Crown : the stipend of the minister
is £202, with a good manse, built in 1818, and a glebe
of fifteen acres, valued at £20 per annum. The church
is remarkable for the beauty of its situation, in Glasser-
ton park, a tract of 150 acres thickly spread with orna-
mental plantations, among which, in different directions,
a variety of single trees majestically rise, giving a bold
relief to the picturesque scenery. The edifice, erected in
the early part of the eighteenth century, was repaired,
and enlarged by the addition of an aisle and a hand-
some tower, in 1836, and now contains 400 sittings.
There is a parochial school, the master of which has a
salary of £34, and about £20 fees, with a good house,
built in 1825. Another school is supported, the mas-
ter of which has a salary of £15, and fees; the salary
arises from the gratuities of two ladies, and the school
and master's house stantl on land granted by the Earl
of Stair rent-free. The poor have the interest of two
sums, one of £100, and the other of £60. Not long
since was discovered, in a marl-pit on the estate of
Castlewig, in Whithorn parish, but near the border of
Glasserton, the head of a urus, which was sent to Sir
Walter Scott, and is yet to be seen at Abbotsford.
GLASSFORD, a parish, in the Middle ward of the
county of Lanark, 2| miles (N. E.) from Strathaven ;
containing, with the villages of Westquarter and Chapel-
ton, 1736 inhabitants. This parish, which is bounded on
the south by the river Avon, is not distinguished by any
events of historical importance. It is about eight miles
in length, and of very irregular form, varying in breadth
from nearly four miles to two at its extremities, and to
half a mile at the' centre ; it comprises 5598 Scottish
acres, which, with the exception of about 500 acres, are
generally arable, and in a state of profitable cultivation.
The surface is uniformly level, though having a gradual
ascent to a considerable elevation; and consists partly
of dales extending along the lower parts of the parish,
towards the south, and partly of moors. The soil is
various, being in different parts moss, clay, and light
loam : of the moss some small portion has been im-
500
proved, and of the remainder it is probable that, from
the rapid advance of agriculture, the greater part will
be brought into cultivation. The principal crops are,
oats, potatoes, and turnips ; attempts have been made
of late to raise wheat, and with tolerable success, but
hitherto a small tract only has been sown for that pur-
pose. A considerable portion of land is in pasture, and
great attention is paid to the rearing of sheep and cattle,
of which the latter are mostly of the Ayrshire breed.
There is but little wood ; the plantations are chiefly of
beech, ash, and fir. The lands are in general well in-
closed, except in the moorland districts; and the fences,
which are usually of thorn and beech, have of late been
much attended to, and are well kept up : the farm-
houses, also, many of which are of recent erection, are
substantial and comfortable. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £6*00.
Freestone is found in different parts ; near the village
of Westquarter are three quarries of excellent quality,
and there is also one at a place called Flatt, all of which
are in operation, affording employment to several men,
and supplying abundant material for building. Lime-
stone is also prevalent, and lime-kilns on an extensive
scale have been established in the moors, providing
plenty of lime for manure : coal is found in some parts,
and at Crutherland works have been opened on a limited
scale, for the supply of that estate. A considerable
number of females are employed in weaving, and on the
bank of the river Avon are a flour and an oat mill.
Communication is maintained with Strathaven and other
market-towns by means of good turnpike-roads, of which
one, from that town to Glasgow, by East Kilbride, and
also one to Hamilton, pass through the parish. Glass-
ford is in the presbytery of Hamilton and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr, and patronage of Lady Mary Mont-
gomerie ; the minister's stipend is £256. 17. 11., with
a manse, and a glebe of nine acres of rich land. The
parish church, situated in the village of Westquarter,
nearly at one extremity of the parish, was erected in
1820, and is adapted for a congregation of 560 persons.
A handsome church, with a spire, was erected on the
Church-extension principle in 1839, in the village of
Chapelton, about three miles from the parish church.
There is also a place of worship for the Free Church.
A female society for the promotion of religious objects
was formed in 1835, and a parochial library has been esta-
blished. The parochial school, situated at Westquarter,
affords education to a considerable number ; the salary
of the master, of which a portion has been assigned to
the masters of two branch schools, is £25. 13., with
£35 fees, and a house and garden. The branch schools
are in the village of Chapelton and at Millwell : the
former is endowed with £5. 11.; and the latter with
£2. 15. 6., a house and garden given by Lady Mont-
gomerie, and the sum of £3 from the parish. About
300 children attend three Sabbath schools, of which
one is at Westquarter, and another at Chapelton ; and
there is also a class of adults. On the lands of Avon-
holm are the remains of a cromlech, consisting of three
upright stones. Within the last few years there were,
near Hallhill House, some ruins of an ancient castle,
which have been wholly removed by the proprietor ; it
appears to have been a very strong fortress, capable of
containing more than 100 men, and was probably a safe
retreat in times of danger. There are still some remaius
GLEN
GLEN
of the original church and steeple in the grave-yard, in
which is also a tomb inscribed to William Gordon, of
Earlston, in Galloway, who was shot by a party of
dragoons on his way to Bothwell Bridge, in 1679.
GLEMSHOLM ISLE, in the parish of South Ro-
naldshay, county of Orkney. This is a small islet
lying northward of the island of Burray, from which it
is distant about half a mile : it is nearly a mile in length
and half a mile in breadth, and is appropriated to the
pasturage of cattle and sheep.
GLEN, a hamlet, in the parish of Falkirk, county
of Stirling ; containing 98 inhabitants.
GLEN ARY, Argyll. — SeelNVERARvandGLENARY.
GLENBERVIE, a parish, in the county of Kincar-
dine, 7 miles (W. S. W.) from Stonehaven ; containing
1*296 inhabitants, of whom 397 are in the village of
Drumlithie. This parish, which obviously derives its
name from the situation of its church in a small glen
on the north-eastern bank of the river Bervie, is totally
unconnected with any event of historical importance.
It is bounded on the north by the hills of Strachan
and Durris, forming part of the lower range of the
Grampians ; and is about six miles and a half in length
and five in breadth, comprising an area of 13,000 acres,
of which 5000 are arable, 185 woodland and plantations,
and the remainder meadow, pasture, high moorland,
and waste. The surface is varied, and naturally divided
into three districts, of which that on the banks of the
river is level, and separated from the middle district
by a deep ravine; the northern district includes a low
and narrow ridge of the Grampians. The rivers are, the
Bervie, which has its source in the hills to the north-
west, and, taking an eastern course, flows along the
southern boundary of the parish into that of Arbuthnott;
the Carron, which rises in the hills near the west of the
glen of Bervie, and runs eastward towards Fetteresso ;
and the Cowie, which has its source in the hills to the
north of the parish, and flows through Fetteresso into
the bay of Cowie, near Stonehaven.
The soil is various; in the district along the Bervie,
early, and pretty fertile ; in the middle district, light and
cold towards the west, but more productive towards the
east ; and in the northern district are some tracts of
good arable land, with a large extent of heath and moor,
The crops are, oats, barley, and bear, with potatoes and
turnips ; the system of husbandry is in a very advanced
state, and all the improvements in the construction of
agricultural implements have been adopted. The rate-
able annual value of the parish is £5147. There is but
little wood ; and the few plantations that have been
formed are of recent growth, and of very limited extent.
Glenbervie House is a plain, ancient building. The
only village in the parish is Drumlithie, which is chiefly
inhabited by weavers, and persons employed in the
usual handicraft trades requisite for the supply of the
neighbourhood. The linens woven here are principally
of the coarser kinds, mostly Osnaburghs and sheeting,
in which about eighty persons are engaged. A fair is
held in the village, for the sale of cattle, generally about
the second week in October. Facility of communica-
tion is maintained by good roads, of which the high
road from Perth, through Strathmore, to Aberdeen passes
near the village ; and at Stonehaven agricultural pro-
duce is shipped for the London market. The ecclesias-
tical affairs are under the superintendence of the presby-
501
tery of Fordoun and synod of Angus and Mearns. The
minister's stipend is £231, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £7. 5. per annum ; patrons, the family of
Nicholson. The church, a neat plain structure erected
in the year 1826, contains 700 sittings. The parochial
school is well attended ; the master has a salary of £30,
with a house, and £2. 2. in lieu of garden, and the fees
average £15 per annum. This place gave the title of
Baron, in the peerage of Ireland, to the Right Hon.
Silvester Douglas, created Lord Glenbervie in 1S00 ;
but it became extinct at his lordship's death. — See
Drumlithie.
GLENBUCK, a village, in the parish of Muirkirk,
district of Kyle, county of Ayr, 3| miles (N. E. by E.)
from Muirkirk ; containing 237 inhabitants. This place,
which is situated in the extreme east of the parish, and
north of the high road from Muirkirk, was an appen-
dage to considerable iron-works, erected in 179-t, by an
English company ; but these works having been discon-
tinued in 1813, the village has since fallen greatly into
decay. The Ayr river flows at a short distance on the
south ; and connected with it are two artificial lakes or
reservoirs, which were formed about 1802, by the Messrs.
Finlay, of Glasgow, to supply their cotton-factories at
Catrine, in the parish of Sorn. In the village is a
school.
GLENBUCKET, a parish, in the district of Alford,
county of Aberdeen, 2 miles (N. E.) from Strathdon,
on the road to Aberdeen ; containing 542 inhabitants.
This place is supposed to derive its name from the stream
of Bucket, which, rising among lofty mountains, inter-
sects the parish, and falls into the Don near the castle
of Glenbucket, the seat of the Gordons of Glenbucket.
The last laird of this ancient family espoused the cause
of the Stuarts, and held a distinguished command in
1715 and 1745: he was consequently compelled to
make his escape to France, when a very aged man, after
the fatal battle of Culloden. The length of the parish
is about ten miles, and its breadth about, two and a
half; it contains upwards of 12,000 acres, of which
1000 are arable, 200 planted, and there is some good
pasture and meadow land. It is bounded on the north-
east by the parish of Cabrach ; on the north-west by
Banffshire ; on the south-east by the parish of Fowie ;
and on the south by Strathdon. The district is alto-
gether mountainous, and is entered from the east by
only a narrow and romantic pass, commencing at the
confluence of the rivers Don and Bucket below the castle,
which stands on the acclivity of the hill of Benneaw,
rising 1800 feet above the level of the sea. The greatest
elevation is the hill of Craigenscore, on the north, the
height of which is about 2000 feet. The climate is
subject to the extremes of heat and cold, the summers
being sometimes intensely hot, and the winters bringing
keen north winds, deep snows, and sharp and long-
continued frosts. The soil is in general good, and the
improved system of husbandry is adopted ; yet the
deficiencies in draining, inclosing, and planting, and the
want of roads, form great obstacles to rapid advances
in prosperity. The produce of the farms is usually sent
to the markets of Aberdeen. The rocks consist of
granite, gneiss, &c, with several others of the primitive
formation : there is a good supply of superior limestone,
which is wrought to advantage by the tenants, both
for their own use and for sale. The inhabitants are all
GLEN
GLEN
employed in agriculture : the parish is the property of
the Earl of Fife, and its rateable annual value amounts
to £9S9. The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the
presbytery of Alford and synod of Aberdeen ; patron,
the Crown. The stipend is £158, of which £125 are
drawn from the exchequer ; there is an excellent manse,
with a glebe of about £10 value. The church, built
about fifty-five years since, is a plain commodious
edifice. There is a parochial school, the master of
which has the medium legal salary, school fees, a house
and garden, with three acres of land. The parish also
contains a parochial library. Burnett's mortification,
shared in by all the parishes in the synod, and of which
no parish can receive more than £50, nor less than £20,
comes to Glenbucket about once in eight years. The
old castle, now nearly in ruins, is a highly picturesque
object.
GLENCAIRN, a parish, in the county of Dum-
fries, 13§ miles (N. W. by W.) from Dumfries ; con-
taining, with the villages of Dunreggan, Kirkland, and
Minnyhive, 2094 inhabitants. The parish is about fif-
teen miles long, and three and a half broad, and contains
above 35,000 acres ; it is bounded on the north by
Tynron parish, on the south by Dunscore, on the east
by Keir, and on the west by Balmaclellan and Dairy.
The surface is diversified by numerous hills and valleys,
by wood and water. The hills extend in ranges from
east to west, rising from 1000 to 1500 feet above the
level of the sea ; the higher parts are covered with
heath, but the rest is generally spread with good
green pasture. The valleys are highly cultivated, and
produce crops of grain. On account of its proximity
to the high hills on the west, the parish has a moist
atmosphere ; and it suffers frequently from violent
inundations caused by copious rains, which bring great
mischief to the low grounds. There is a lake about
three miles in circumference, and four or five fathoms
deep, abounding with pike and a large kind of trout ;
the water has a black hue, on account of the mossy
ground in the neighbourhood. Three streams, named
Castlefairn, Craigdarroch, and Dalwhat, rise in the
western hills, and, meeting a little below the village of
Minnyhive, form one stream, which takes the appella-
tion of Cairn. This river has a course of sixteen miles,
and then joins the Nith, about a mile above Dumfries,
and seven miles distant from the Solway Frith.
The soil in general is light and gravelly, and adapted
in a superior degree for turnip husbandry. About 7000
acres are cultivated, or occasionally in tillage ; 26,600
have never been cultivated ; and 800 are under wood.
The crops of grain raised in the valleys are very fine,
and the grounds are under the most improved system
of agriculture. Great benefits have resulted from effi-
cient draining, and the construction of embankments ;
and by the spirited and liberal support of some of the
proprietors, much moss has been reclaimed, and excel-
lent farm houses and offices erected. The quantity of
arable land has, indeed, been quadrupled within the last
fifty years ; and the rateable annual value of the parish
now amounts to £11,138. The rocks are chiefly of
the transition class : there is a slate-quarry which was
formerly wrought to some extent, but which has since
been neglected. The mansions are Maxwellton House
and Craigdarroch House. Fairs are held at Minnyhive,
in March, July, and October, for the hiring of servants ;
502
and a market for lambs has recently been established.
There is a daily post ; and about eighteen miles of
turnpike-road run through the parish, upon which the
Glasgow and Dumfries coach travels three times a week :
there are four bridges on this road, and six upon the
parish roads, and all are kept in good order.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the pres-
bytery of Penpont and synod of Dumfries ; patron, the
Duke of Buccleueh. The stipend is £280 ; and there
is a manse, with a glebe of twelve acres, valued at £18
per annum. The old church contained only accommo-
dation for 500 or 600 persons, and was an uncomfort-
able building ; a new one has been lately erected to seat
upwards of 1000 persons. There are also a place of
worship for members of the Free Church, and one
belonging to the United Secession. Three parochial
schools are supported, in which the classics, with the
usual branches of education, are taught ; the respective
salaries are £25. 13., £17- 2., and £8. 11., and the
joint fees amount to about £54. There are likewise
two subscription libraries at Minnyhive, and a congre-
gational library belonging to Seceders. The chief relic
of antiquity is a tumulus generally called the Moat, but
sometimes the Bow Butts, situated about a mile and a
half from the church, and supposed to have been for-
merly employed as a place for the exercise of archery.
In the village of Minnyhive is a cross, erected about
163S, when a charter was granted, constituting the
village a burgh of barony, with power to hold a weekly
market.
GLENCAPLE-QUAY, a village, in the parish of
Caerlaverock, county of Dumfries, 4| miles (S. S. E.)
from Dumfries ; containing 268 inhabitants. The vil-
lage is situated on the eastern bank of the Nith, and
has a small harbour, of which the water is twelve feet
deep at spring tides. Vessels bound for Dumfries, to
which town this port is subsidiary, unload here when
unable, from their burthen, to reach the place of their
destination ; and much employment is afforded to the
male population, as carriers, in consequence. A road
from the village runs in a northern direction, and partly
along the shore, to Dumfries. A short distance hence,
close by the river, was a cell or chapel, dedicated to
St. Columba ; and near it is a well, where persons who
drank of its water usually deposited alms.
GLENCOE, a district, in the parish of Lismore
and Appin, district of Lorn, county of Argyll, 17 miles
(N. E. by E.) from Appin. This singularly wild and
celebrated Highland vale is situated nearly at the head
of an arm of the sea called Loch Etive, and extends
in a north-western direction to Ballichulish, on Loch
Leven, a distance of about ten miles. From the latter
point, the western line of the Highland military road
passes through the extensive and valuable slate-quarries
in that quarter, and then turns up the dark vale of
Glencoe. The scenery of this vale is in many respects
different from that of other Highland glens. It forms
a narrow strip of rugged territory, along whicli flows
the wild and rapid stream of the Coe ; and on each side
of the banks of this stream, stupendous hills shoot
almost perpendicularly upwards to the height of per-
haps 2000 feet, terminating either in cragged summits
or in spires and cones ; while numerous torrents descend
from the heights at. intervals, increasing the awful gran-
deur of the scene. The mountainous elevations seem as
GLEN
GLEN
if composed of huge disjointed rocks heaped one upon
another, and appear to be in danger of falling every
moment, and of filling the dismal chasm below with
their crumbling materials. In some places, the oppo-
site ranges approach so near as almost to exclude the
sun from the vale, even when at its greatest height in
June. Where accessible, the hills afford tolerable pas-
ture for sheep ; but in various parts, particularly on the
south side of the glen, no foot has ever trod, and the
eagle and his feathered subjects are the only visitants.
At its south-eastern extremity, the vale is bounded by
the mountain called Buchael-Etive.
Glencoe is famous as the birthplace of the poet Ossian,
by whom many of the mountains, and the wild scenery
of the district, are accurately described ; and it were to
be wished that the celebrity of the vale were confined
to the martial deeds of Fingal and his heroes. But the
place is also memorable for one of the most barbarous
and bloody crimes that have been committed in a mo-
dern age, or have ever been sanctioned by any regular
and civilized government ; that known as the " massacre
of Glencoe." It appears that William III., of England,
had published a proclamation inviting the Highlanders
who had been in arms for James VII., to accept of a
general amnesty before the 1st of January, 1691, on
pain of military execution after that time. Mackian
Macdonald, laird of Glencoe, in accordance with this
invitation, repaired to Fort-William on the very last
day of December, and offered to surrender to the gover-
nor of that fortress, by whom, however, he was informed
that he should apply to the civil magistrates. Upon
this intimation, he set out with all possible haste to
Inverary, the county town, and there surrendered him-
self to the sheriff, the time prescribed for submission
having been exceeded by only a single day. The she-
riff, in consequence of his previous offer to the governor
of Fort-William, and moved by Macdonald's entreaties
and suppliant manner, agreed to accept his oath of alle-
giance, and to certify to the unavoidable cause of the
delay from the snows and other interruptions on the
road ; and the confiding laird returned to Glencoe,
assured of security and protection. But an exteiisive
combination was, it would appear, formed for his de-
struction ; the fact of his having sworn allegiance was
altogether suppressed, at the instance, chiefly, of the
president Stair and the Earl of Breadalbane ; and the
certificate of the magistrate was erased from the minutes
presented to the privy council. Early in the month of
February, therefore, a party of military under the com-
mand of Captain Campbell, of Glenlyon, entered the vale
on pretence of levying taxes and hearth-money ; the clan
became alarmed at their appearance, but on Macdonald
inquiring of this officer, if his intentions were friendly,
he assured him upon his honour that they were. All
apprehension was allayed in consequence ; and for
nearly two weeks, the unsuspecting inhabitants treated
their visiters with every mark of attention and hospi-
tality. The soldiers were comfortably quartered among
them ; civilities were interchanged on both sides, and
even on the night of the dreadful massacre, the 13th of
February, Macdonald and Campbell had played at
cards, the latter renewing, when retiring, his frequently-
expressed protestations of the warmest friendship for
his host.
The fatal order from the executive in England arrived
503
in the night. It directed an immediate and sudden
attack upon the defenceless villagers while asleep, com-
manded the passes to be securely guarded, to prevent
escape ; and exhorted the military not to suffer a man
under the age of seventy to be spared by their swords.
From some suspicious circumstances, the sons of Mac-
donald were impressed with a presentiment of danger ;
but this was not the case before they discovered the
approach of the soldiery ; and ere they could alarm
their father, the massacre was spreading through the
vale. A party entering the house as friends, shot the
laird as he rose from his bed. His wife was stripped
naked by the assassins, who tore the rings with their
teeth from her fingers; and she expired in the morning
from the effects of grief and horror. A guest of the
family, Macdonald of Achtrichatain, who had submitted
three months before, and who had the royal protection
in his pocket, was among the victims. Nine men were
bound, and deliberately shot, at Campbell's quarters; his
landlord was shot by his orders ; and a youth, who had
clung to his knees for protection, was stabbed to death.
At another part of the vale, the inhabitants were shot
while sitting round their fires ; several women perished
with their children in their arms ; a man eighty years
of age was put to the sword ; and another, who had
escaped to a house for concealment, was burnt alive.
Thirty-eight persons were thus inhumanly butchered by
their own inmates and guests. The rest, alarmed by
the report of musketry, mostly escaped to the hills, and
were preserved from destruction by a tempest that
added to the horrors of the night, and which was so
terrific as to prevent a detachment from Fort-William,
of 400 men, under Colonel Hamilton, from advancing
in sufficient time to complete the massacre. The women
and children were spared from the stroke of death ; but
it seemed as if only to render their fate more cruel.
Such of them as had not died from fright, or escaped,
were turned out naked at the dead of night, in a keen
frost, into a waste covered with snow, six miles distant
from any inhabited place ; and many of them were found
dead or dying under rocks and hedges. The carnage
was succeeded by rapine and desolation ; the houses in
the vale were demolished, and the cattle became a prey
to the murderers.
According to Smollett, the Earl of Breadalbane had
borne a personal enmity to Macdonald, and had, from
this motive, concealed from the ministry the fact of his
submission : the order for the extermination of the
whole clan, countersigned, it is said, by the king him-
self, was thus transmitted to the secretary of state in
Scotland, and but too fatally executed. The outcry
against the massacre was not confined to these king-
doms ; but resounded, with every aggravation, through-
out Europe. Yet the secret circumstances relating to
it were never sufficiently examined ; no inquiry was
instituted at the time, nor was any punishment inflicted
subsequently upon its authors. On the contrary, it is
asserted that the officers who were most active in the
sanguinary deed were promoted. The place where the
massacre was chiefly committed is at the north-west
end of the vale ; and the old house of Glencoe, still an
object of horror, is now a ruin. Near the slate-quarry
in Glencoe is an Episcopalian chapel, served by the
minister that officiates at Portnacroish, in the Strath of
Appin.
GLEN
GLEN
GLENCROSS, or Glencorse, a parish, in the
county of Edinburgh, 2J miles (N. by E.) from Peni-
cuick ; containing 708 inhabitants. This parish, which
consists of portions severed from the parishes of Lass-
wade and Penicuick, in 1616, derives its name from an
ancient cross in the cemetery of the old church of St.
Catherine, now covered by the water of the Compen-
sation reservoir. The battle of the Pentland hills, be-
tween the Covenanters under Colonel Wallace and the
king's troops commanded by General Dalziel, took place
on Rullion Green, in this parish, on the 28th of Novem-
ber, 1666, and terminated in the defeat of the former,
with considerable slaughter. Glencross is bounded on
the north by the parish of Colinton, on the east and on
the south by that of Lasswade, and on the west by Peni-
cuick ; it is three miles in length, and nearly the same
in breadth, comprising an area of about 19*20 acres, of
which 16S0 are arable, and the remainder hilly moor-
land. The surface is beautifully diversified with hill
and dale, and abounds with scenery of strikingly pic-
turesque character ; in the northern district is a consi-
derable portion of the Pentland hills, and throughout
the parish the land is irregularly undulating. The
Glencross, or Logan, water has its source in the Pent-
lands, and, winding in an eastern direction through the
parish, flows into the river Esk in the parish of Glen-
cross. This tributary stream, in its course along a
valley between the Pentland hills, has been formed, by
the Edinburgh Water Company, at an immense expense,
into a reservoir for the supply of the numerous mills
upon the Esk, in consideration of their having diverted
from that river, for the supply of Edinburgh, the power-
ful spring of Crawley, which rises near the manse, and
discharges sixty cubic feet of water per minute.
The soil varies from a fine rich loam to a gravelly
and stiff clay, and is adapted for crops of every kind ;
the principal are, wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and tur-
nips, with the various grasses. The system of agricul-
ture is in a very forward state ; the lands have been
well drained and inclosed, in the lower parts with hedges
of thorn, and in the higher with stone dykes. The
farm houses and offices are greatly improved in appear-
ance ; they are substantial and commodiously arranged,
and on most of the farms are threshing-mills. Much
waste has been reclaimed and brought into cultivation,
yielding fine crops of grain by the judicious use of lime
formed into a compost for manure. The hills afford
good pasturage for sheep, which are chiefly the black-
faced, with some of the Cheviot breed, and a few of a
cross between the black-faced and the Leicestershire.
Plantations have been formed on an extensive scale, and
are well managed, and in a thriving condition ; they
consist of almost every sort of trees, both of hard and
soft wood. There are some remarkable specimens of
Portugal laurel in the gardens of Logan Bank, and of
variegated holly at Woodhouselee, some of which latter
are more than thirty-five feet in height ; also a silver fir
at Woodhouselee, which measures thirteen feet and a
half in girth, at three feet from the ground. The chief
substrata are, coal, limestone, sandstone, clay-slate,
greenstone, and conglomerate ; and the rocks are prin-
cipally of porphyritic formation, containing fine speci-
mens of compact felspar, calcareous and heavy spars,
and agate. Coal was formerly wrought in Glencross muir ;
and the heavy spar was also worked for some time, in
504
the hope of finding copper or silver, but not to any great
extent. The rateable annual value of the parish is £5391.
Woodhouselee, the seat of James Tytler, Esq., is an
elegant mansion beautifully situated in an ample de-
mesne tastefully laid out, and embellished with planta-
tions : Bush, Glencross House, Logan Bank, Castlelaw,
and Bellwood, are also good mansions. The ancient
house of Greenlaw was converted by government into a
depot for French prisoners of war, in 1803, and in 1813
was enlarged for the reception of 7000 men ; but, from
the termination of the war before the buildings were
completed, they were not applied to that purpose ; and
they are at present occupied by a small detachment of
troops from the castle of Edinburgh. There is no vil-
lage in the parish, except a few clusters of houses at
Milton -Mill ; the population is entirely agricultural.
There was formerly a distillery in the parish ; but a
paper-mill, lately erected, and one single meal-mill,
are the only works at present : a market for sheep
is held on the first and second Mondays in April, at
House of Muir. Facility of communication is afforded
by good roads, kept in excellent repair, and by bridges
over the Glencross water and the river Esk : the turn-
pike-road from Edinburgh to Dumfries intersects the
parish. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale
and the presbytery of Dalkeith. The minister's stipend
is £156.17., of which £88 are paid by government;
patron, Mr. Tytler. The manse, about a mile from the
church, was built in IS] 6; the glebe comprises nine
acres, including garden, and is valued at £19. 15. per
annum. The church, situated on the summit of an
isolated hill, in the centre of the parish, was erected in
1665, and partly rebuilt after sustaining damage from
fire, and enlarged by the addition of transepts, in 1699 ;
it was repaired in 18-11, and contains 180 sittings, a
number very inadequate to the population of the parish.
The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £34, with a
good house and garden, and the fees average about £20
annually. There are vestiges of an ancient camp at
Castlelaw, from which that estate most probably took
its name ; and on an eminence near Marchwell were,
till within the last few years, some very perfect remains
of a Druidical circle ; but they have been removed for
the sake of the materials, which have been used in the
erection of a wall. The late William Tytler, Esq.,
author of an inquiry into the evidence against Mary,
Queen of Scots ; his son, Lord Woodhouselee, author
of the Life of Lord Karnes ; and Patrick Fraser Tytler,
Esq., youngest son of Lord Woodhouselee, and author
of the History of Scotland, all resided on the estate of
Woodhouselee. The late Rev. Dr. Inglis, author of
a vindication of ecclesiastical establishments, likewise
lived for many years in the parish.
GLENDOVAN, or Glendevon, a parish, in the
county of Perth, 8 miles (S. S. E.) from Auchterarder -,
containing 157 inhabitants. This parish, which is about
six miles in length and four in breadth, derives its
name from the river Devon, which runs through it in
a direction from west to east, taking its course along a
narrow and verdant glen, and being inclosed by banks
of considerable elevation. It lies in the midst of the
Ochil hills, and is bounded on the north by the parishes
of Blackford and Auchterarder, on the east by Fossaway,
on the south-east by Muckart, and on the west and
GLEN
GLEN
south by Clackmannanshire ; it comprises about 6000
acres, of which not more than 100 are arable, and the
whole of the remainder rich meadow and pasture land.
The surface is varied by the hills, clothed to their sum-
mits with luxuriant verdure ; and except about thirty
persons employed in the woollen manufacture, for which
a mill has been established at Burnfoot, the popula-
tion is wholly pastoral. The dairy-farms are well
managed ; and the produce is sold in the markets of
Alloa and Stirling, where it finds a ready sale. The
rateable annual value of Glendovan is £1500. A good
road has been constructed for about three and a half
miles through the parish, at an expense of £5257, and
has been of great benefit in facilitating a supply of coal,
which is plentiful in the immediate vicinity : peat-moss
is also abundant, and is used to a considerable extent
for fuel. The Devon, a fine copious stream, abounds
with excellent trout, and flows through a tract enriched
with pleasingly picturesque scenery : on the south bank
is Glendovan House, a handsome mansion commanding
a good view of the glen. The parish is in the presbytery
of Auchterarder and synod of Perth and Stirling, and
patronage of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is
£158, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per
annum. The parochial school is well conducted ; the
master has a salary of £34, with £15 fees, and a house
and garden.
GLENDUCKIE, a hamlet, in the parish of Flisk,
district of Cupar, county of Fife, 3 miles (E.) from
Newburgh ; containing 53 inhabitants. It is seated in
the extreme south of the parish, a short distance north
of the high road from Newburgh to Cupar. The ham-
let is appendant to the farm of Glenduckie, and con-
sists of the farm-house and twelve or fourteen cottages.
GLENELG, a parish, in the county of Inverness,
ISS5 miles (N. W.) from Edinburgh ; containing, with
the island of Rassay, 2729 inhabitants. The name of
this place, according to some, signifies " the valley of
hunting," and according to others, " the valley of the
roe," each of which descriptions is appropriate to the
character of the district. The parish is about twenty
miles in length, and of nearly the same breadth. It is
bounded on the north-east and east by the parish of
Glenshiel, in the county of Ross ; on the south-east and
south by Glengarry and Lochaber ; on the south-west
by the lake of Morir, dividing it from Ardnamurchan ;
and on the west and north-west by the Sound of Sleat,
separating it from the Isle of Skye. The coast is ab-
rupt and rocky, except in the bay of Glenelg and in the
lochs, where good anchorage may be obtained. The
interior consists of three districts, named Glenelg
Proper, Knodyart, and North Morir, which are formed
by the intersection of two arms of the sea, called Loch
Hourn and Loch Nevis. The surface is diversified with
hill and glen. In the district of Glenelg are two valleys,
through each of which a river runs ; and the inhabit-
ants reside partly in villages on each side of the streams,
their arable land extending along the banks, and on the
acclivities of the hills. In Knodyart the people live
near the sea : North Morir is but little inhabited, being
rocky and mountainous, and chiefly adapted for pasture.
Loch Hourn and Loch Nevis are about four miles wide
at the entrance, and are navigable for twenty miles ; the
former is celebrated for the beauty of its scenery and the
well-wooded mountains rising from its margin. There
Vol. I. — 505
are also several fresh-water lakes, which, as well as the
rivers, contain a tolerable supply of fish.
The soil in Glenelg proper is loamy and fertile ; that
in the district of Knodyart is much lighter, but, when
well cultivated, produces good crops. The parish, how-
ever, is chiefly pastoral, being rendered unfit for exten-
sive agricultural operations by the rockiness of the sur-
face, and by the great quantity of rain to which the lands
are subject at all seasons, exposing the farmer to con-
siderable loss. Sheep are the staple live stock, the arable
land not being able to supply a sufficiency of winter
provender for any other ; the few cattle kept are of the
pure Highland breed, and the sheep the black-faced
and Cheviots. About 2000 acres are under wood ; and
the rateable annual value of the whole parish amounts
to £6642. The rocks are chiefly gneiss, with mica-slate,
quartz, hornblende, granite, syenite, and serpentine.
There are also several beds of limestone ; but it is not
wrought, as the scarcity of proper fuel renders the
operation too expensive, and as the shells which abound
on the coast are found to be a good substitute. Plum-
bago is met with in considerable quantities. The only
mansion-house in the parish is that of Inverie, on the
property of Glengarry, in the district of Knodyart ; it
is beautifully situated on the banks of Loch Nevis. The
chief village is Kirkton, which, with its circumjacent
scenery, has excited the admiration of most visiters to
this part of the country, and is conveniently seated
upon a bay affording good anchorage with the wind
south-east, north-east, or east. Its principal street con-
sists of slate-roofed houses, having some good shops,
with numerous cottages in the vicinity, these last, how-
ever, being of a mean description, and extremely dirty :
it is also the site of the parish church. The roads
leading from the village are beautified with rows of
trees ; and these, together with the extensive bay and
the interesting back-ground, form a very agreeable and
striking picture. The village of Amisdale, situated at
the southern extremity of the district of Glenelg proper,
on the banks of Loch Hourn, is also rendered attractive
by its imposing Alpine scenery. There is a herring-
fishery connected with the parish, which produces about
£250 a year ; and annual fairs are held in the months
of May, July, and September, respectively. The inha-
bitants enjoy good means of communication. The par-
liamentary road towards the Isle of Skye passes through
the principal glen to the ferry of Kyle Rhea ; it is
kept in good order, and has excellent bridges over the
mountain streams. A steam-boat, also, visits the parish
weekly, except in the most stormy weather; and post-
offices have been established under Lochalsh and Fort-
Augustus.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the pres-
bytery of Lochcarron and synod of Glenelg ; patrons,
the family of Baillie, of Kingussie. The stipend is £237 :
the manse, which was built recently, more than a mile
from the church, is a large and handsome edifice, beau-
tifully situated. The glebe is valued at £40 per annum,
and is of great extent, comprehending 360 acres, nearly
thirty of which are arable, the rest being pasture : this
tract was received in lieu of the old glebe, which was
comprehended in a portion of land sold to govern-
ment for building a fort and barracks, subsequently
to the rebellion of 1715. The church contains about
400 sittings, and is in good condition, having been
3 T
GLEN
GLEN
repaired and re-seated about 1827. In the districts of
Knodyart and Morir, the population of which is almost
entirely Roman Catholic, a missionary labours under
the patronage of the General Assembly, also preaching
every third Sunday at Arnisdale, on account of its dis-
tance from the parish church. Two Roman Catholic
priests officiate in Knodyart and Morir. The parochial
school affords instruction in English and Gaelic read-
ing, and sometimes in Latin, with the common branches
of education ; the master has £30 a year, with £9 in
lieu of a house and garden, and about £5 fees. Other
schools are supported by the General Assembly's Com-
mittee and the Society for Propagating Christian Know-
ledge. The chief relics of antiquity are two duns or
Pictish towers, situated in Glenbeg; they are the finest
specimens of their class in this part of the Highlands,
and are supposed by many, not to be the workmanship
of any purely Celtic tribe, but to have been raised by
the Danes or Norwegians. Glenelg gives the title of
Baron to the family of Grant, a dignity created in 1835,
in the person of the Hon. Charles Grant, who had been
representative in parliament of the county of Inverness
for some years previously, and was at that time secre-
tary of state for the colonies.
GLENGAIRN, county of Aberdeen. — See Glen-
mtjick, Tullich, and Glengairn.
GLENHEAD, a village, in the parish of Lochwin-
noch, county of Renfrew, 2| miles (N. N. E.) from
Beith ; containing 53 inhabitants. This small village
is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in agriculture ;
it is pleasantly situated on the south side of Castle-
Semple loch, and contains a school, of which the master
has a salary of £5 per annum, paid by the master of the
parochial school, and also a house and garden rent-
free.
GLENHOLM, county of Peebles. — See Brotjgh-
TON.
GLENISLA, a parish, in the county of Forfar,
10 miles (N. by W.) from Alyth ; containing, with the
hamlet of Kirkton, 1134 inhabitants. This very exten-
sive parish, which comprehends the north-western por-
tion of the county, derives its name from its situation
in a spacious and picturesque valley watered by the river
Isla. It is about eighteen miles in length, and nearly
six in extreme breadth, comprising an area of 39,776
acres, of which 3960 are arable, 4500 undivided com-
mon, about 500 woodland and plantations, and the re-
mainder mountain pasture and waste, The surface is
strikingly diversified : on the north, the parish is sepa-
rated from the county of Aberdeen by a barrier of moun-
tainous elevation, from which extend, towards the south,
two ranges of nearly equal height, that bound the parish
on the east and west. Between these ranges, for a
short distance from the northern boundary, the surface
is divided into three small vales by intervening ridges ;
and farther towards the south is the height of Kilry,
which intersects the parish from west to east, leaving
only a narrow interval, through which the Isla pursues
its course. The range of mountains forming the eastern
boundary divides, for some few miles, into three nearly
parallel ranges, inclosing two small vales watered by
the rivulets of Pitlochrie and Glenmarkie. The lowest
of the mountainous ranges of Glenisla has an elevation
of 1400 feet above the level of the sea : towards the
north, they greatly increase in height, terminating in the
506
mountain of Glassmile, 3000 feet high, on the western
verge of which is raised a heap of stones, whereof the
base lies in the three parishes of Glenisla, in the county
of Forfar, Kirkmichael, in that of Perth, and Crathie, in
the county of Aberdeen. Mount Blair, on the western
boundary, has an elevation of 2260 feet ; and from the
summit is obtained a commanding view over the adja-
cent district, with the Lammermoor, Pentland, and
other hills of almost infinite variety. The river Isla,
which has its source in the heights of Caanlochan, flows
in a south-easterly direction, through an extensive tract
abounding with truly romantic scenery. It forms some
picturesque cascades ; and near the bridge of Milna
Craig, being arrested in its course by immense masses
of projecting rock, it rushes with impetuous violence
through its contracted channel, and falls from a height
of eighty feet into a wide gulph beneath. About two
miles from this, again confined within a narrow channel,
scarcely three yards in width, by towering cliffs of pre-
cipitous rock, it forces its way through a frightful
chasm, and descends in a torrent into a deep and spa-
cious ravine lined on both sides with walls of perpendi-
cular rocks, crowned with trees of every variety of foliage.
This pass, which is called the Slug of Auchrannie, is
much admired for the grandeur of its scenery.
The soil is partly clay alternated with gravel, and,
though tenacious of moisture, is, when properly drained,
productive of grain of every kind ; the upper lands are
chiefly moss, with some portions of gravel. The crops
are mostly oats and barley, with the various green
crops, and the hills afford good pasturage for sheep and
cattle ; the system of agriculture is improved, and the
rotation plan of husbandry generally prevalent. The
lands are well drained, and partly inclosed ; and the
farm-buildings, many of which are of modern erection,
are substantial and convenient. The cattle, of which
the annual number is about 1800, are of the Angus and
Highland breeds; and the sheep, of which nearly 10,000
are pastured on the hills, are chiefly of the black-faced
kind. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£4009. The plantations, which are of modern growth,
are larch and Scotch fir, and thrive well. The substra-
tum in the south is of the old red sandstone formation,
with some portions of trap rock ; the sandstone is well
adapted for building, and there are quarries of blue
limestone, which is burnt for manure. Communication
is afforded by roads kept in repair by statute labour, of
which one leads to Alyth, where is a branch post-office,
and another forms the Kirriemuir and Castletown road ;
and there are several bridges over the river, two of
which are of stone, one of iron, and another of wood,
the two last for foot passengers only. Fairs for cattle,
sheep, and horses are held on the first Wednesday in
March and the first Wednesday in August, O. S. The
ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence
of the presbytery of Meigle and synod of Angus and
Mearns ; the minister's stipend is £159. 12., of which
about one-third is paid from the exchequer, with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £10 per annum : patron,
the Crown. The church, erected in 1821, and situated
nearly in the centre of the parish, is a neat structure
containing 700 sittings. The parochial school is well
conducted; the master has a salary of £29. 18. 10.,
with a house and garden, and the fees average about
£10 per annum. Another school is supported by the
GLEN
GLEN
Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, who allow
the master a salary of £16 per annum. There are some
small remains of the castles of Fortar and Newton,
ancient baronial seats of the carls of Airlie; the for-
mer was destroyed in 1640, by the Marquess of Argyll.
In 1841, a silver coin or medal, with a halt-length figure
of Anselm Casimer, Archbishop of Mentz, and silver
coins of Elizabeth and James VI., were found in a field
on the farm of Bellaty.
GLENLUCE, county of Wigton.— See Luce,
Old.
GLENLYON, lately a quoad sacra parish, chiefly in
the parish of Fortingai., and partly in that of Weem,
county of Perth, 12 miles (W.) from the Kirktown of
Fortingai; containing 570 inhabitants. This district
extends in a western direction, from the head of Fortin-
gai, nearly to the stage-house of Tyndrum, upon the
western military road, a distance of about thirty-two
miles. It consists of a very narrow glen, the sides of
which are formed of some of the loftiest mountains in
the county. What is termed its general level ground,
by the river Lyon, is seldom more than a furlong broad ;
and the mountains on the north approach so closely in
some places to the opposite range, on the south, as to
confine the struggling river to a bed not much more
than eight yards wide. Numerous streams, some of
them four miles in length, descend from the mountains
and swell the Lyon ; and this river, of which the source
is a lake of the same name, after flowing in nearly an
eastern direction for upwards of forty miles, its tribu-
taries rendering it more rapid at each confluence, falls
into the Tay below Taymouth Castle. In the head of
the district the soil is good ; but the seasons are incle-
ment, and the crops seldom attain to perfection. The
hills, however, afford excellent pasturage for sheep ; and
in this respect Glenlyon is exceeded by few, if any, of the
glens in the Perthshire Highlands. In different parts
along the vale are small hamlets, so secluded amidst
Alpine scenery as to be deprived of the rays of the sun
for a third part of the year. The means of communi-
cation are but indifferent : a carrier or runner passes
and repasses between Aberfeldy and the extremity of
the glen three times a week. The ecclesiastical affairs
are under the presbytery of Weem and synod of Perth
and Stirling, and the patronage is vested in the Crown :
the stipend of the minister is £120, with a manse, and
a glebe of the annual value of £2. 10., a privilege of cut-
ting peat, and the summer grazing of two cows. The
church, situated in the hamlet of Innerwick, was built
by the heritors, in 1828, at a cost of £6/3, and contains
between 500 and 600 sittings. A district box for the
poor yields per annum about £16. This place gave the
title of Baron, in the peerage of the United Kingdom,
to James, second son of John, fourth duke of Atholl,
who died in 1837, and was succeeded by his son George,
as second lord, now the presumptive heir to the duke-
dom.— See Fortingai,.
GLENMORRISTON, Inverness. — See Urciu-
HART.
GLENMUICK, TULLICH, and GLENGAIRN, a
parish, in the district of Kincardine O'Neil, county
of Aberdeen, 16 miles (W.) from Kincardine O'Neil ;
containing, with the village of Ballater, 2118 inhabit-
ants. The compound Gaelic term Glean-miiie, expres-
sive of " a valley frequented by swine," is supposed to
507
have been applied to this place from some part of it
having been formerly celebrated for its breed of swine.
The word Tullich is corrupted from tulach, signifying
"rising grounds, or hillocks," and is descriptive of the
vicinity of the village of Tullich. Glengairn is derived
from the three words glean-garbh-amliain, meaning " the
hollow or glen of the rough water," a term properly
applied to the water of Gairn, on account of the rocky
channel through which it pursues its course. The out-
line of the parish is very irregular, the length in several
places being eighteen miles and the breadth fifteen miles,
and the average length about fourteen and a half and
the breadth twelve and a half. Glenmuick measures in
average length fifteen miles, from east to west, and five
and a half in breadth ; Tullich, fourteen miles in length,
from east to west, and seven miles in breadth ; and
Glengairn, eight miles in length, and four in breadth.
They comprise together about 115,200 acres, of which
3643 are under cultivation, 3185 in woods and planta-
tions, and the remainder hills, moss, and moor, afford-
ing pasture, fuel, and game. The surface in most parts
is mountainous and hilly ; the small portion under til-
lage is chiefly in fertile straths, and on the banks of
the rivers. In addition to several rivulets or burns, the
lands are watered by the Dee, the Muick, and the Gairn;
the first divides the parish throughout its whole length,
the district of Glenmuick being nearly all on its south-
ern side, and Tullich and Glengairn on the northern.
The chief mountains, which are partly in contiguous
parishes, are, Lochnager, Cairutaggart, Mountkeen, and
Morven, rising respectively to the height of 3S14 feet,
3000 feet, 3126 feet, and 2934 feet. The most con-
siderable hills are in ranges, varying from 1000 to
2500 feet : that of Culblean, at the east of Tullich, ex-
tends from Morven, in a southern direction, for six
miles, as far as the river Dee. From the centre of this,
another range runs westward, along the north bank of
the Dee, to the valley of Gairn; and, though interrupted
here, it rises again on the west side of the valley, and
stretches parallel with the Dee to the church of Crathie.
A third chain, on the south side of the Dee, extends in
a line with the former, for about six miles, towards the
west; and, after often changing its direction, and bound-
ing several lochs, it reaches the parish of Braemar, at
the mountain of Cairntaggart. There are also some
insulated hills, of which that called Craigandarroch, 400
yards north of the church, rises to the height of 1400
feet, and another, named the Cnoc, a mile west of the
church, attains an elevation of 1150 feet. The ground
rising from the streams, where the ascent is not too
abrupt or rocky, is cultivated to the height of between
100 and 200 feet.
The wild and romantic mountain scenery of the dis-
trict is blended with many beautifully picturesque fea-
tures, for which it is much indebted to its rivers and
lakes. The Dee, rising in the mountains of Braemar,
flows into this parish, and receives, on its northern side,
at about one mile and a half north-west of the church,
the river Gairn, which has passed through the district
of Glengairn ; and half a mile west of the church, on
its southern side, it is joined by the Muick, a stream re-
markable for the beautiful cascade called the Linn of
Muick. It then proceeds in an easterly course to Aber-
deen, where it falls into the sea. Among the lochs,
that of Dhuloch, at the south-western extremity of Glen-
3 T2
GLEN
GLEN
muick, is celebrated for its impressive scenery ; and its
water, which is deep and cold, derives a sable hue from
the stupendous overhanging cliffs of Craigdhuloch, which
rise on its southern shore above ]000 feet in height.
A mountain rivulet falls into it from a considerable
elevation, over a rock, on the north; and a small stream,
called by its own name, runs out of it, in an eastern
course, forming several cascades, and, at the distance of
a mile and a half, losing itself in Loch Muick. This lake
is situated in the midst of romantic scenery, and is
closely girt by the mountain of Lochnagar on the north,
and a lofty range of the Grampians on the south and
west. The loch of Cannor, about three miles round,
and lying at the base of Culblean, in the district of
Tullich, is also a beautiful sheet of water, richly orna-
mented with birch-wood, and interspersed with small
islands. On one of these once stood a fortress, sup-
posed to have been built as a hunting-seat by Malcolm
Canmore ; and not far from the loch is a curious exca-
vation, called "the Vat" on account of its shape, it
being nearly circular, measuring at the bottom about
twelve feet in diameter, and gradually increasing to the
top. A stream falls into it from the height of thirty
feet ; and the hollow is supposed to have been gradually
wrought by the pebbles driven round it, for ages, by
the rapid and incessant action of the water. Salmon
are found in the rivers ; and the lochs are well stocked
with eels, pike, par, and trout.
The soil is in general shallow and dry, in some parts
sandy, in others gravelly : the grain chiefly cultivated
is oats and bear, and most kinds of green crops are
raised. The sheep are the black-faced, occasionally
crossed with other sorts ; the cattle are the small native
breed, mixed with the Galloway and others. The lai'ger
agriculturists are gradually introducing the rotation
of crops, and other approved usages ; the farm-build-
ings are tolerably good, and some tracts of waste land
have been trenched, drained, and brought under tillage,
within the last ten or twelve years. Embanking has
also been carried on to some extent ; but the inclosures
are still deficient, and much is yet required to raise the
parish to a level with many of the neighbouring dis-
tricts. The rateable annual value of Glenmuick, Tullich,
and Glengairn is £5745. The prevailing rocks are,
primitive limestone, gneiss, and trap, of the first of
which three quarries are in operation ; and these rocks
are frequently intersected with veins of quartz and por-
phyry. Granite occurs in numerous boulders ; and
ironstone and bog-iron are abundant. The natural
wood consists chiefly of Scotch fir ; the plantations are
of the same wood, mixed with larch, pine, mountain-
ash, and others ; but plane, elm, and ash are not found
to thrive. The mansion of Birkhall, built in 1715, and
thoroughly repaired and enlarged in 1839, is a beautiful
residence, romantically situated ; Monaltrie House is
a modern structure, in the vicinity of the village, and
has very superior flower and fruit gardens attached
to it.
The inhabitants are engaged chiefly in agriculture ;
but many females are employed in flax-spinning and the
knitting of stockings. A post-office, in Ballater, com-
municates daily with Aberdeen ; and there is a good
commutation road, on the north side of the Dee, to
Charlestown of Aboyne, where it meets the Aberdeen
turnpike-road. A substantial wooden bridge of four
508
arches was erected over the Dee in 1834, "two excellent
stone ones having been previously carried away by the
floods, the first in 1799, and the other in 1829: the
present structure was raised at a cost of more than
£2000, defrayed partly by subscription, and partly by
a grant from the Parliamentary Commissioners for
Highland roads and bridges. The farmers usually send
their corn and dairy produce to Aberdeen, and the live
stock to the Scotch or English cattle-markets. Fairs
are held on the first Tuesday in May, O. S., the last
Tuesday in June, the second Monday and Tuesday in
September, O. S., and the Saturday before the 22nd of
November : those in May and September are for the
sale of cattle, horses, sheep, and general wares ; that in
June for the sale of wool ; and that in November for
hiring servants. The parish is in the presbytery of
Kincardine O'Neil and synod of Aberdeen, and in the
patronage of the Marquess of Huntly. The minister's
stipend is £237, with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£7- 10. per annum. The church, built in 1798, is a
neat substantial edifice, with a spire ; it is situated in
the middle of a square in the village of Ballater, and
has accommodation for about 800 persons. A mis-
sionary, in connexion with the Established Church,
officiates in a chapel at Rinloan, in Glengairn, seven
miles from Ballater, and, besides the usual accommo-
dations, receives £60 per annum from the Royal Bounty
Committee. The members of the Free Church have a
place of worship ; and there is a Roman Catholic chapel
on Gairnside, five miles distant from the church, and a
second, a very small one, in another part. The paro-
chial school, situated in Ballater, affords instruction in
the usual branches ; the master has a salary of £34,
with a house, and £15 fees, and participates in the Dick
bequest. There is also a school near the chapel in
Glengairn, the master of which, in addition to accom-
modations, has £15 per annum from a bequest by Miss
Farquharson. The parish contains a subscription library
and a savings' bank. On the moor near Culblean are
several cairns, said to cover the graves of those who fell
in flight after the battle of Culblean, fought between the
followers of King David Bruce, and those of Cummin,
Earl of Atholl, in 1335. The Marquess of Huntly de-
rives his title of Baron Meldrum, of Morven, from a
place in this parish. — See Ballater.
GLENORCHY and INISHAIL, a parish, in the dis-
tricts of Lorn and Argyll, county of Argyll, 14 miles
(N. by E.) from Inverary ; containing 1644 inhabitants,
of whom 247 are in that portion of the parish which
was till lately annexed, quoad sacra, to Strathfillan church.
These two ancient parishes, which were united in the
year 1 6 IS, derive their names from the situation of their
respective churches, the former in a picturesque glen
watered by the river Orchy, and the latter on the beau-
tiful island of Inishail, in Loch Awe. The lordship of
Glenorchy was granted in the fifteenth century, by
James II., to an ancestor of the Breadalbane family,
whose descendant, the marquess, is the present pro-
prietor; the lands of Inishail are divided among several
owners, of whom Mr. Campbell, of Monzie, is the prin-
cipal. The parish, which is partly bounded on the
west by Loch Etive, is twenty-four miles in length, vary-
ing from five to twenty miles in breadth, and comprises
an area of nearly 300 square miles. The surface, with
the exception of the vale of Glenorchy and the district
GLEN
GLEN
of Inishail, is hilly and mountainous, abounding in
boldly romantic scenery. Of the mountainous ranges,
the most conspicuous is that of Cruachan, on the north
and north-eastern boundary, separating the parish from
those ofArdchattan and Appin, and in which are the
heights of Beinabhuiridh, Stob-au-Daimh, Beinmacmo-
naidh, and Beindourain. The range extending from
the western to the eastern extremity of Loch Awe, along
the south side of the vale of the Orchy, terminates at
the bases of the mountains Tighearnan and Beinach-
leidh, near Beinlaoidh, the highest mountain in the
parish. These ranges are in several places broken by
intervening glens, through which run the rivers Orchy
and Awe, which in their course form some pleasing
cataracts, flowing between banks densely wooded and
marked with features of strikingly romantic character.
Both rivers abound with salmon and trout, and are
much frequented by anglers. The chief lakes are Loch
Awe and Lochtolla, which contain salmon, trout of large
size, eels, char, perch, and pike, the last of recent intro-
duction. Of the former lake, only the eastern extremity
is in this parish ; but, from the beauty of the scenery
on its shores, it forms a very interesting feature. Loch-
tolla, which is situated among the hills of Glenorchy, is
about four miles in length, and a mile in average breadth :
on the north bank is a picturesque shooting-lodge be-
longing to the Marquess of Breadalbane, surrounded
with thriving plantations. There are also several smaller-
lakes in the parish.
The soil on the banks of the rivers is a mixture of
light earth and sand, and on the sides of Loch Awe a
deep and rich loam resting on a gravelly subsoil ; the
crops are, oats, barley, bear, potatoes, and turnips. The
system of husbandry has made considerable progress ;
the farm-houses are generally substantial and well
built ; but the offices are of rather inferior order, and
the lands only partially inclosed. Embankments have
been raised on the Orchy, and the channel of the river
Awe deepened. The upland portion of the parish is
purely pastoral, and great numbers of sheep and black
cattle are reared on the hills. The sheep are, with the
exception of a few of the Cheviot and Leicestershire, all
of the black-faced breed ; and the cattle of the pure
Argyllshire breed, except some Ayrshire cows on the
dairy-farms. The sheep and cattle are sent principally
to Falkirk and Dumbarton, and the wool to Liver-
pool. Though comparatively little remains of the ancient
woods with which the parish formerly abounded, the
lands are still far from being destitute of timber, and
various modern plantations have been formed, which
are in a thriving state, and add much to the beauty
of the scenery. The prevailing rocks are mica-slate
and gneiss, with granite and porphyry ; and the sub-
strata chiefly clay-slate, whinstone, and limestone, much
mixed with mica and quartz. The rateable annual value
of the parish is £SSS6.
Among the seats is Inishdrynich House, a handsome
mansion beautifully situated on the north side of Loch
Awe, in a demesne richly wooded, and laid out with
great taste. New Inverawe, about a mile from Inish-
drynich, and also on the banks of the loch, is a modern
mansion, surrounded with plantations ; and Roekhill is
likewise a pleasant residence, on Loch Awe, of which
it commands an extensive and interesting view. There
is no village of any importance. At Dalmally is a post-
509
ing inn, affording every accommodation; and facility
of communication is maintained by good roads which
have been formed in various parts of the parish, and
are kept in excellent order. Fairs are held on the third
Wednesday in March, and the fourth Tuesday in No-
vember. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Lorn and synod of
Argyll ; patrons, the Duke of Argyll and the Marquess
of Breadalbane. The minister's stipend is £'206, with a
manse, a glebe valued at £22 per annum, and the privi-
lege of depasturing eight cows on four farms in the
neighbourhood, which is equivalent to £10 more. The
church of Glenorchy, erected in 1S11, is a handsome
structure in the later English style of architecture ; it
is beautifully situated on an islet formed by the wind-
ings of the river Orchy, and contains 500 sittings, all
of which are free. The church of Inishail, formerly on
an island of that name in Loch Awe, but rebuilt on the
shore of the lake, is a plain structure containing 250
sittings. The members of the Free Church have a place
of worship. Two parochial schools are supported in
Inishail, the masters of which have each a salary of
£■25. 13., and fees averaging £5 per annum : there is
also a parochial school at Glenorchy, of which the mas-
ter has a salary of £34, with fees amounting to £20,
and a house and garden. The parochial library con-
tains about 300 volumes.
There are some remains of ancient castles, among
which are those of Fraocheilein, situated on a rock in
Loch Awe, and erected in the reign of Alexander III.
by the chief of the elan MacNaughton. The castle of
Caolchurn, at the eastern extremity of the lake, was
for many centuries the stronghold of the Breadalbane
family ; the great tower or keep was built by the lady
of Sir Colin Campbell, ancestor of the family, during
his absence in the Holy Land, in 14-10. This castle,
after the removal of the owners to their seat at Tay-
mouth, fell into decay, which was greatly accelerated
by the appropriation of the materials to the building of
farm-houses in the parish. There are slight remains,
also, of the castles of Acliallader, Duchoille, and others.
On the island of Inishail are the ruins of a convent for
nuns of the Cistercian order, of which the chapel was, after
the Reformation, used as the parish church of Inishail,
till the erection of the present structure in 1/36. Upon
a small islet in the lake, called the Priest's Isle, are the
remains of the house of the priest of Inishail, surrounded
with a wall of dry stones ; and from the south shore of
the lake, may be traced some huge blocks of stone in-
tended for the foundation of a bridge, and still called
the Druid's Bridge. On opening a cairn on the farm
of Stronmilehan, a. few years since, was found a stone
coffin containing an urn. The Rev. Dr. John Smith,
the translator of the Bible into the Gaelic language, and
Duncan Me Intyre, an eminent Highland bard, were
natives of the parish. The place gives the title of Vis-
count Glenorchy to the Marquess of Breadalbane.
GLENSHIEL, a parish, in the county of Ross and
Cromarty, 16 miles (S. E.) from Balmacara, in Loch-
alsh ; containing 745 inhabitants. The derivation of
the name of Glenshiel is involved in obscurity, the ori-
ginal word being equally applicable to a "glen of cattle,"
" of hunting," or " of rain." The history of the parish,
till about the middle of the thirteenth century, is also
uncertain. At this time the Mc Kenzies, whose founder
GLEN
G O G A
had been rewarded by Alexander III. for his bravery at
the battle of Largs, expelled from Glenshiel several
tribes known by the names of Macbheolan, Macaulay,
and others, and made themselves possessors of the land.
In the beginning of the next century, however, the
Mc Raes, a clan supposed to be of Irish origin, settled in
the parish, and shortly became almost the sole proprie-
tors. The descendants of this ancient tribe, with some
adherents of the Mackenzie family, and 400 Spaniards
headed by William, Earl of Seaforth, engaged the royal
troops in the narrow pass of Glenshiel, in the cause of
the dethroned family of Stuart; but, after several severe
engagements, the Highlanders were repulsed, and re-
tired, carrying with them the earl, who had been dan-
gerously wounded. The celebrated Rob Roy was con-
cerned in this battle, against the king's troops. The
Mc Raes fought on the same side also at Auldearn and
Sheriff muir, but did not interfere in the rebellion of
1745.
The parish is about twenty-six miles in length, vary-
ing in breadth from two to six miles, and contains
75,000 acres. It is bounded on the north by Loch
Duich, which divides it from the parishes of Lochalsh
and Kintail ; on the south by the parish of Glenelg ; on
the east by the parishes of Kiltarlity, Urquhart, and
Kilmonivaig ; and on the west by the strait of Kylerea,
which separates it from the Isle of Skye. The surface
is formed of two divisions, the Eastern and Western.
The eastern consists of three ranges of lofty mountains,
divided by narrow valleys, and rising in a bold and pre-
cipitous manner at the western end, to an elevation of
nearly 4000 feet above the level of the sea : among the
many peaks by which they are distinguished, Scur-uran
is the most conspicuous. The celebrated valley of Glen-
shiel lies between two of these ridges ; it is about fifteen
miles in length, of various breadth, and narrows so
much at the middle, b}' the approach of the mountains,
as to leave only sufficient space for the stream of Shiel
to pass along. In a more expansive portion, it forms a
bed for the waters of the lake of Cluonie. The scenery
is altogether of a bold and romantic cast. The western
division of the parish, called Letterfearn, implying " the
alder side," is of a different character from the other
division, consisting of a verdant tract gradually rising
from Loch Duich, and marked by rocky projections and
headlands, diversified with well-cultivated fields and
interesting copses. Good springs are numerous in the
parish ; and in the eastern division are two considerable
rivers, of very clear water, stocked with salmon and
trout, and which flow for about twelve miles, and then
empty themselves into Loch Duich, at the south and
east extremities. One of these is the Shiel, running
through the valley of Glenshiel. The principal inland
lakes are, Loch Cluonie, Loch Luin, and Loch Shiel, all
of which abound in excellent trout.
The soil, near the shore is gravelly, and, if well ma-
nured, produces good crops of potatoes ; in several of
the valleys a rich vegetable mould is found, partially
mixed with sand or gravel, and admitting of superior
cultivation. About 280 acres are employed in tillage,
and 71,600 are under pasture : about seventy acres are
wood, considerable portions of which consist of ash and
alder. There are a few good farms, but the tillage is
principally confined to yearly tenants who hold from
one to two acres of land, which is turned with the spade,
510
and sown with barley or oats, or planted with potatoes :
the manure used is sea- weed. The houses on the supe-
rior farms are convenient and substantial buildings :
those inhabited by the small tenants, however, are of
a mean description, built of common stones, without
cement, and containing only one apartment with par-
titions. Black-cattle, which formerly comprised the
whole live stock, have been gradually yielding, since
the beginning of the present century, to sheep. The
breed of these, which has been much promoted, is the
black-faced, or the Cheviot, with the cross of the two :
the cattle are chiefly the native Highland, celebrated for
their beauty and their hardiness, but a few Ayrshire
cows are kept on some of the farms for their milk. The
subsoil is a stiff and tenacious till, rendering draining
difficult and expensive, and impeding the efforts of cul-
tivation. The prevailing rock is gneiss, sometimes re-
ceiving a tinge of red from iron-ore ; limestone, also, is
found in several parts. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £3014.
There is no village within the parish : fairs are held
at Shielhouse, for the sale of black-cattle, at Whitsun-
tide, in July, and September. Communication between
Glenshiel and Inverness is maintained by means of a
parliamentary road running for eighteen miles through
the parish. There is a good harbour, named Ob-inag,
at the point where Loch Duich joins Loch Alsh ; it is
capable of sheltering the largest vessels. The bays,
also, of Ardintoul and Craigan-roy, at the southern
extremity of Loch Duich, afford secure anchorage. The
ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the presbytery of
Lochcarron and synod of Glenelg, and the patronage is
in the Queen: the minister's stipend is £158, with a
manse, built in 1834, and a glebe of about twenty-four
acres, valued at £16 per annum. The church, which is
the first erected in the parish, was built in 175S, and is
situated in the eastern part of Letterfearn 5 it was re-
paired, enlarged, and new-roofed in 1840, and accom-
modates 300 persons with sittings. There is a parochial
school, in which Latin, Gaelic, and English are taught;
the master has a salary of £28, and about £2 fees. The
only relic of antiquity is a strong circular fort on the
estate of Letterfearn, called a Picts' house. In the pa-
rish are some chalybeate springs ; but they have not
been used for medicinal purposes.
GLENTANNER, county of Aberdeen. — See
Aboyne.
GOGAR, a hamlet, in the parish of Corstorphine,
county of Edinburgh, 2 miles (W.) from Corstorphine ;
containing 32 inhabitants. The lands of Gogar anci-
ently formed a parish, which merged, after the Reforma-
tion, into the adjoining parishes of Corstorphine, Kirk-
liston, and Ratho. The estate was given by King
Robert Bruce to Alexander Seton, one of his companions
in arms ; and for a long series of years subsequently,
it was a possession of successive influential families.
The hamlet is in that division of the ancient parish in-
corporated with Corstorphine, and, though now very
small and unimportant, is said to have been a consider-
able village, which, at one time numbered 300 inha-
bitants : the road from Corstorphine to Brocksburn
passes through it, and the Gogar burn flows in its vici-
nity, on the south and west. A small portion of the
church still exists ; and there is a school, supported by
subscription.
GO L S
GOL S
GOLSPIE, a parish, in the county of Sutherland,
S miles (N. N. E.) from Dornoch ; containing, with the
village of Bachies, 1214 inhabitants, of whom 491 are in
the village of Golspie. This place, anciently called Cul-
mallie, and of which the present name is of doubtful
etymology, formed part of the ample territories of the
thanes of Sutherland, of whom William was created
Earl of Sutherland by Malcolm Canmore, in 1067.
Robert, or Robin, the second earl, in 1100, erected here
the castle of Dunrobin, which has since that time been
the residence of many of his successors, and is now a
seat of his descendant, the Duke of Sutherland, who is
proprietor of nearly the whole county. In 1746, a
battle took place on the north side of the Little Ferry,
between the militia of the county and a party of the
adherents of the Pretender, in which the latter were de-
feated with great slaughter, and the Earl of Cromarty
and several other men of rank were made prisoners.
The parish, which is bounded on the east by the Moray
Frith, and on the south-west by Loch Fleet, which
separates it from the parish of Dornoch, is about eight
miles in length, and six miles in extreme breadth. The
surface, though generally level, is diversified with hills,
of which those in the direction of the coast are, Bein-a-
Bhragidh, having an elevation of 1300 feet above the
level of the sea, and Silver Rock and Morvich, which
are of inferior height; in the interior are, Bein-Horn,
1712, and Bein-Lundie, 1464 feet high. In the centre
of the parish is the valley of Dunrobin, which is richly
wooded, and abounds in picturesque scenery; and
towards the coast, and between the bases of the hills,
are some level tracts of fertile land. On the summit of
Bein-a-Bhragidh, a monument was erected by his tenantry
in 1836, to the memory of the late Duke of Sutherland,
who died in 1S33. The rivers in the parish are, the
Fleet, forming part of its western boundary ; and the
Golspie burn, which intersects the eastern portion of it,
flowing through the picturesque glen to which it gives
name, into the frith, at the village. There are several
small inland lakes, of which the principal are, Horn,
Lundie, Farralarie, and Salachie ; but none are more
than half a mile in length, and about one-third of a
mile in breadth. The coast is indented by some small
bays, and by Loch Fleet, an inlet from the Frith, across
which was erected, in 1815, a strong mound of earth,
connecting this parish with that of Dornoch, on the
opposite shore. This mound, which was completed at
an expense of £9600, towards which the duke contri-
buted £1600, is nearly 1000 yards in length, sixty yards
broad at the base, and twenty on the summit ; and ter-
minates in a bridge of four arches, forming an excellent
road, over which the mail passes.
Of the lands in the parish about 2040 are arable, S00
in W'oodland and plantations, and the remainder hill
moorland and waste ; the soil is in general light, but of
good quality and fertile, and in some parts a deep loam
mixed with clay. The crops are, grain of all kinds, with
potatoes, turnips, and vegetables. The system of hus-
bandry has been brought to great perfection ; the lands
have been drained, and inclosed chiefly with stone
dykes ; and the farm-houses and offices are substantial
and commodious. The cattle principally reared are of
the Dunrobin breed, originally introduced from Argyll-
shire. On some farms, however, the Highland black
breed is preferred ; upon one farm is a stock of the
511
black-polled Galloway, and on the dairy-farms the cows
are chiefly the Ayrshire. The sheep, to the improve-
ment of which great attention is paid, are of the Che-
viot breed, and obtain a decided preference in the mar-
kets : a few horses, chiefly for agriculture, are also
reared. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£S959. The plantations have been greatly extended ;
and among the trees most prevalent in the Highlands,
large numbers of forest trees of every kind have been
recently introduced with success. The principal rocks
are porphyritic granite and mica-slate ; and the sub-
strata, red and white sandstone, and limestone. The
sandstone varies much in texture, some veins being
much more durable than others, and better adapted for
building, for which the stone is extensively quarried.
There are also indications of coal within the limits of
the parish.
Dunrobin Castle, occasionally the residence of the
duke, is a spacious massive structure, situated on the
summit of a rock rising from the sea : it occupies a
quadrangular area, inclosed by walls of great thickness,
and flanked at the angles by circular towers with conical
roofs 3 and is surrounded with strikingly romantic sce-
nery. The village of Golspie, which is pleasantly seated
on the coast, is neatly built, and contains an excellent
inn, a post-office which has a daily delivery, a branch
bank, and numerous shops well stocked with various
kinds of merchandise. Many of the inhabitants are
employed in the usual handicraft trades ; a fair for cattle
and pedlery is annually held here, in October ; and
during the fishing season the village is much frequented,
the small harbour affording good shelter for the boats
engaged off the coast. There is also a pier in the bay of
Dunrobin. Great facilities are likewise afforded by the
Fleet loch, in which is a secure harbour of considerable
extent, having eighteen feet depth of water at ebb tides,
about a mile to the south of the Little Ferry; it is fre-
quented by vessels importing coal, lime, bone-dust, and
various kinds of merchandise for the supply of the dis-
trict, and which return with cargoes of grain, wool, and
whisky. A smack plies regularly once a month between
the Little Ferry and Leith, touching at Helmsdale aud
Aberdeen ; and there is also a steamer from the Moray
Frith to London, which calls at this place. The eccle-
siastical affairs are under the superintendence of the
presbytery of Dornoch and synod of Sutherland and
Caithness. The minister's stipend is £204, with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £6 per annum ; patron,
the Duke of Sutherland. The church, erected in 1738,
and enlarged in 1751, is a neat structure, situated in the
village, close to the sea-shore, and containing 565 sit-
tings. The parochial school is well attended ; the mas-
ter has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, and
the fees average about £26 per annum. There are
some remains of two Pictish castles, one at a short dis-
tance to the east, and the other to the west, of Dun-
robin Castle : in the western ruin, the central circle and
the gallery between it and the outer walls are still dis-
tinctly apparent. Near Morvich are some Druidical
remains. A portion of the ancient church is yet stand-
ing, as well as part of the wall that inclosed the
cemetery in which were interred many of the earls of
Sutherland : near these ruins have been found several
brass rings and other relics, which are preserved in
Dunrobin Castle.
GORB
GORD
GOMETRAY ISLE, in the parish of Kilninian,
county of Argyll. It is a small basaltic island of the
Hebrides, lying" between the isles of Mull and StafTa,
and separated from Ulva by such a narrow sound that,
from most points of view, they appear as if one island.
There is a harbour on the north, and another on the
south side, both of which are safe and tolerably commo-
dious. The inhabitants rear cattle and horses, and
manufacture kelp.
GONOCHAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Fintry,
county of Stirling, § a mile (E. by S.) from Fintry ;
containing 44 inhabitants. It is situated on a burn of
the same name, and on the high road from Fintry to
Campsie : the burn is a tributary to the river Endrick,
and both have their source in the parish. In the ham-
let is the parochial school, with the dwelling of the
master, the latter a neat building, erected by himself.
GORBALS, a parish, in the suburbs of the city of
Glasgow, chiefly in the county of Lanark, but partly in
the Upper ward of the county of Renfrew; containing
39,263 inhabitants. This place, originally called Bridg-
end, from its situation at the extremity of a bridge over
the Clyde, connecting it with Glasgow, was anciently
part of the parish of Govan, from which it was separated
in 1771. At that time it comprised only about fourteen
acres, to which were subsequently added the lands of
Rea, Little Govan, and the prebend of Polmadie, con-
taining about 600 acres, and also that part of Govan
called the Barony, a tract of 400 acres, belonging to the
corporation of Glasgow, the patrons of Hutcheson's hos-
pital, and the Trades' house. The whole of the rural
district is arable land, with a small proportion of mea-
dow and pasture ; the soil is rich, and the moors have
been brought into profitable cultivation. The crops are,
wheat, oats, potatoes, and turnips ; abundance of ma-
nure is obtained from the city and suburbs, and every
recent improvement in agriculture has been adopted.
The population is partly agricultural, but chiefly em-
ployed in the various manufactures of Glasgow. The
parish, with the adjacent lands, was formed into a burgh
of barony and regality at a very early period, and in
1607 was bestowed by the Archbishop of Glasgow upon
Sir George Elplnnstone, who, in 1611, obtained from
James VI. a charter confirming the grant. In 1647,
his successor conveyed it to the magistrates and town
council of Glasgow, who are still superiors of the burgh
and barony, of which the former includes the old parish
of Gorbals and part of the parish of Govan, and the lat-
ter has been divided into the districts of Hutchesonton,
Laurieston, Tradeston, and Kingston, which are described
under their respective heads.
The burgh is governed by four bailies, who are an-
nually appointed by the inhabitants, and of whom two
may be continued in office for a second year. Their
jurisdiction is exercised chiefly in matters of police, in
which they are assisted by commissioners under the
police statute ; they have no corporate rights or exclu-
sive privileges. The police buildings comprise a spa-
cious hall and court-house. A court for the trial of
civil causes not exceeding thirty shillings, in which the
process is either ordinary or summary, and a court for
the recovery of debts not above forty shillings, are held
before the bailies occasionally, the town-clerks of Glas-
gow acting as assessors. The burgh and barony are
wholly within the parliamentary boundary of the city 5
512
the number of £10 householders is 1635. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £150,202. Gorbals is in
the presbytery of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr, and in the patronage of the heritors and the Kirk
Session : the stipend is £250 ; there is neither manse
nor glebe, in lieu of which the minister has an allowance
of £25 per annum. The church erected in 1771 was
subsequently purchased for the district of Kirkfield, and
a larger and more commodious edifice built for this
parish in 1813, at an expense of £7350 ; it is a hand-
some structure, and contains 1460 sittings. There are
also places of worship for members of the Free Church,
United Secession, Relief Church, and Wesleyans. A
school, in which are about 140 children, is supported by
the Kirk Session, who pay the master a salary of £50,
for the gratuitous instruction of the children of the
parish ; and there is a school for girls, established in
1 833, under a bequest of £2000 by Mrs. Waddell, of
Stonefield. The patronage of the girls' school is vested
in the magistrates, and the minister and elders of the
Kirk Session of Gorbals, with preference to children of
the name of Macfarlane ; the mistress has a salary of
£20, with a house, coal, and candles.
GORDON, a parish, in the county of Berwick,
8| miles (N. W.) from Kelso ; containing 903 inhabit-
ants. The name of this place is derived from the Gaelic
word Goirtean, signifying " a little farm or field," pro-
bably in reference to a particular tract appropriated to
the growth of corn, or under some kind of superior cul-
tivation. The territory of Gordon, which was formerly
of great extent, is said to have been granted, in the
reign of Malcolm Canmore, or of David I., to an Anglo-
Norman settler who assumed from it the surname of
Gordon. One of his descendants, Sir Adam Gordon,
who was killed at the battle of Halidon-hill in 1333,
changed his residence to the shire of Aberdeen, in con-
sequence of obtaining considerable possessions in the
north : but the family derived the title of duke from
this district until the year 1836, when the dignity be-
came extinct. A small distance to the north of the
village of West Gordon, an eminence still called the
Castle is pointed out, as the spot on which the ancestors
of the dukes had their seat ; it is now entirely covered
with plantations, and nothing remains but the vestiges
of a moat or ditch. The parish was in remote times
of much greater extent than at present. Part of it,
called Durrington-Laws, has been annexed to Longfor-
macus, twelve miles distant ; and another portion, called
Spottiswoode, was united, with the parish of Bassen-
dean, to the lands of Westruther, about 1647, in order
to form the modern parish of the latter name. Reli-
gious foundations were established here at a very early
period : at Huntly-wood, in the parish, was a chapel de-
dicated to the Virgin Mary, the advowson of which came
into the family of Home in the reign of James IV. There
was also a chapel, called White-Chapel, at the hamlet
of Spottiswoode, the ruins of which but recently disap-
peared ; it was built by John de Spottiswoode, during
the reign of David II. The parish church was formerly
an appendage to that of Home ; the monks of Kelso
obtained the patronage about the year 1171, and held
it in their possession till the time of the Reformation.
The parish, which lies in the western portion of the
Merse, and is of oval figure, is about seven miles long,
varying in breadth from two to four miles, and contains
GORD
G O U R
S900 acres. It is bounded on the north by part of
Legerwood, by Westruther, and part of Greenlaw ; on
the south by Hume, now joined to the parish of Stit-
chell, and by Earlstoun ; on the east by Greenlaw ; and
on the west by the parish of Legerwood. The site of
the parish is elevated, and the surface uneven and hilly,
though there are no mountains. The small river Eden
runs through the whole extent, from north to south,
dividing it into two nearly equal parts ; and the north-
eastern boundary is washed, for about two and a half
miles, by the Blackadder, which separates it from Green-
law. The soil in general is light and sandy, but in
some places it approximates to clay : there are several
extensive tracts of moor and moss. About 500 acres
are planted with fir, beech, oak, and elm, the first of
which greatly predominates ; 4296 acres are cultivated,
or occasionally in tillage, and 4100 are constantly waste,
or in pasture. Grain of all kinds is raised ; good crops
of turnips and potatoes are also produced, as well as of
hay. The best system of husbandry is followed, and
the rotation is the five years' change ; the farm-build-
ings are usually substantial and convenient, and all
the arable land is inclosed with stone dykes or thorn
hedges. Much waste has been reclaimed and culti-
vated ; and draining has been carried on to a consider-
able extent. The prevailing rock is whinstone, which
lies scattered over the surface of the uncultivated moors
in blocks of from a few pounds to two tons in weight :
in some parts, small beds of red sandstone are seen, but
it is so friable as to be almost useless. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £5495.
The only village is West Gordon ; containing about
300 inhabitants. The road from Kelso to Edinburgh
crosses the parish at the widest part, and another road,
from Earlstoun to Greenlaw, runs through its whole
length ; these, together with the numerous parish roads,
are kept in good order. The ecclesiastical affairs are
subject to the presbytery of Lauder and synod of Merse
and Teviotdale, and the patronage is in the Crown : the
stipend of the minister is £164, with a manse, built in
1S03, and a glebe of twelve acres of arable land, valued
at £30 per annum. The church, built in 17i>6, and
repaired in 1834, is conveniently placed in the centre of
the parish; it contains 400 sittings. There is a paro-
chial school, in which Latin, mathematics, and all the
usual branches of education are taught ; the master has
the maximum salary, with a house and garden, and
about £21 fees. A parochial library was established
about the year 1S23, and has been of great service. No
important relics of antiquity remain in the parish ; but
there are two farms called Rumbleton and Rumbleton-
Law, which names are said to be corruptions of the
terms Roman-Town and Roman-Town-Law. At the
latter of these places were recently appearances of ex-
tensive fortifications on a law or hill, which have been
ploughed up, and inclosed ; they are supposed to have
been Roman works. At Huntly, also, are the remains
of some walls that appear to have been part of a
fortified place.
GORDONSTOWN, a village, in the parish of Auch-
terless, district of Turriff, county of Aberdeen,
7 miles (S.) from Turriff; containing 9S inhabitants.
It lies in the eastern part of the parish, a short distance
east of the Ythan river ; and is a small straggling vil-
lage.
Vol. I.— 513
GOREBRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Temple,
county of Edinburgh, 3 miles (N. E.) from Temple;
containing 240 inhabitants. It is situated in a detached
portion of the parish between the parishes of Borthwick
and Newbattle, and derives its name from a bridge
over the Gore burn, a tributary to the South Esk. A
considerable increase in its population has latterly taken
place, caused by the establishment of the manufacture
of gunpowder, mills for which were built at Stobhill,
in the vicinity of the village, in the year 1794, these
being the first mills of the kind erected in Scotland.
The inhabitants generally attend the church at Borth-
wick, which is somewhat nearer than that of Temple.
Two small schools are supported by subscription.
GOURDON, a village, in the parish of Bervie,
county of Kincardine, 1^ mile (S. by W.) from Ber-
vie ; containing 390 inhabitants. This is a fishing-vil-
lage on the eastern coast, having a small harbour, which,
however, is neither convenient nor safe, and is difficult
of entrance, and much exposed to the violence of the
south and east winds. There are seven boats belonging
to the place, each manned, commonly, by six or seven
men, engaged in the cod and haddock fishery ; and
about ten larger boats, manned each by five men, are
employed in the herring-fishery for two months in the
year. Here are large and commodious granaries, from
which upwards of 30,000 quarters of grain are annually
shipped at the port, which is subsidiary to that of Mon-
trose. There are also convenient sheds for coal, lime,
and other articles.
GOUROCK, lately an ecclesiastical district in the
parish of Innerkip, Lower ward of the county of Ren-
frew, 2 miles (W. N. W.) from Greenock ■ containing
244S inhabitants, of whom 2169 are in the village.
This district, which was formed for ecclesiastical pur-
poses, in 1S32, by act of the General Assembly, is situ-
ated on the Frith of Clyde, by which it is bounded on
the north ; and is about three ■ and a half miles in
length, and three miles in breadth. The surface near
the shore of the bay of Gourock is tolerably level ; but
the ground rises thence gradually towards the south
and east, and the higher parts command pleasing views
over the Frith, and of the adjacent country, in some
directions richly cultivated, and in others boldly ro-
mantic. The soil is of moderate fertility ; in several
places light and sandy, and in others of better quality.
The total number of acres is not precisely known ;
about 2000 are arable, 2500 uncultivated moor, of which
nearly one-half might be rendered profitable, 200 un-
divided common, and about thirty acres woodland and
plantations. Considerable improvements have been
made in the system of husbandry, furrow-draining has
been extensively practised, and the crops are generally
favourable and abundant. The scenery is enlivened
with some agreeable seats and villas. Gourock House
is a handsome mansion, erected on the site of an ancient
castle, of which the remains were taken down in 1747 ;
it is beautifully situated, and the grounds are tastefully
laid out, and embellished with flourishing plantations.
Several headlands mark this part of the coast, of which
Ironotter Point, on the eastern, and Kempoch Point,
on the western shore of the bay, are the principal ; the
bay has depth of water sufficient to render it accessible
to vessels of the largest class, and a small pier has been
constructed for the landing of goods.
3 U
GO V A
G O V A
The village, situated on the bay, is said to have been
the first place in Scotland where the curing of herrings
was practised, and which was introduced in 1688, by
Walter Gibson, provost of Glasgow, who built salt-pans
for the purpose ; but that trade has long been discon-
tinued, and the inhabitants, though during the season
employed in the herring-fishery, are now chiefly engaged
in the fishery off the coast. The fish taken are, cod,
ling, haddock, and whiting, with some few salmon and
trout, the proceeds of all which are estimated at £300
per annum. There are two sloops, and several smaller
boats, belonging to the fishermen of the place. The
beach affords great facilities for bathing ; and numerous
families from Glasgow and Paisley consequently frequent
the village in summer, for whose accommodation there
are several handsome houses. The manufacture of
ropes is carried on extensively by a company, who em-
ploy about thirty-five persons ; the quantity of cordage
averages ISO tons annually, and the proceeds amount
to more than £7500. The church was built in 1832, at
an expense of £2286, of which sum £1731 were raised
by subscription, and £535 given by General Darroch,
who also presented the site ; it is a handsome structure,
containing 947 sittings. The minister's stipend is £120,
paid from the seat-rents and by General Darroch. The
members of the Free Church have also a place of wor-
ship. Connected with the church is a parochial library
of nearly 600 volumes ; but it appears to be altogether
in disuse. A parochial school is supported by the
chief landed proprietors ; the master has a salary of
£20, but no dwelling-house, and the fees average
£30.
GOV AN, a parish, chiefly in the Lower ward of the
county of Lanark, but partly in the Upper ward of the
county of Renfrew ; including the village of Strath-
bungo, and the late quoad sacra district of Partick ; and
containing 7810 inhabitants, of whom 2474 are in the
village of Govan, 2 miles (N. W.) from Glasgow. The
name of this parish is generally supposed to have been
derived from the two Saxon words god and win, " good
wine," applied on account of the superior ale for which
the place was celebrated, and which, after being kept
for several years, approached in flavour to wine. Some,
however, derive it from the Gaelic word gamham, pro-
nounced gamin, and signifying "a ditch," used in refer-
ence to the river Clyde, which runs through the parish,
and which, in ancient times, was a very narrow stream.
The most remote historical information relating to
Govan is connected with the removal of Constantine,
King of Cornwall, into Scotland : that prince is said to
have come from Ireland, after resigning his crown,
among the followers of St. Columba, in the year 565,
and to have founded a monastery here, of which he
became the first abbot. He is supposed to have been
martyred by the inhabitants of Cantyre, who thus re-
sisted his attempts to convert them to Christianity, and
afterwards to have been buried in his own monastery.
Many of the estates of the parish were, in early times,
successively made over as gifts to the church. David I.
gave the lands of Govan to the church of St. Kentigern,
otherwise called St. Mungo, at Glasgow ; and in 1136,
■when present at the consecration of the cathedral of
that city, he bestowed a part of the estate of Partick,
and subsequently another portion of the same lands, on
the see.
514
These grants, with many others, were confirmed by
the bulls of several popes ; and Bishop John, who filled
the episcopal chair for thirty-two years, made Govan a
prebend of Glasgow, the emoluments of which were
increased by Herbert, chancellor of Scotland, who pre-
sided as Bishop of Glasgow till 1164. The lands were
consequently long held by tenants under the bishops
and archbishops ; but at the Reformation, Walter,
commendator of Blantyre, was commissioned to feu
the estates, that the tenants, becoming heritable pos-
sessors of their several properties, might be encouraged
to improve them to the utmost. In 1595, the land-
holders united in procuring a charter, to confirm this
privilege, from James VI. ; and from that time the
crown became lessor. Afterwards, the college of Glas-
gow obtained leases of the lands from the crown, and
continued to hold them for upwards of a century, to
the year 1825, when, in lieu of the leases, a grant was
made to the establishment of an annuity of £800, for
fourteen years, by George IV. The heritors still pay
feu duties to the crown, as coming in place of the arch-
bishops. But the parish is not remarkable solely on
account of its ecclesiastical history : as containing the
Muir of Govan, it was in ancient times the scene of
several important political and military transactions.
That this was the case, is evident from the circumstance
that the lords who had confederated together in defence
of the Protestant religion, after the treaty between the
queen regent and the Protestants, at Leith, on July
24th, 1559, suspecting her integrity, resolved to have a
meeting with " their kin and friends, upon Govan Muir,
beside Glasgow," for the purpose of providing for exi-
gencies. This meeting, however, the queen regent, by the
exercise of no common address, contrived successfully
to prevent. The moor, also, is famed for the defeat of
Queen Mary's army after her escape from the castle of
Lochleven.
The parish is about five miles long, and from two to
three miles broad. The lands of Haggs, Titwood, and
Shields belong to the county of Renfrew : the remainder
of Govan is bounded on the north by the parishes of
New Kilpatrick, Barony, and Glasgow ; by Cathcart,
Eastwood, and the Abbey parish of Paisley, in Renfrew-
shire, on the south ; on the east by Barony, Gorbals,
and Rutherglen ; and on the west by Renfrew parish.
The surface is diversified by gentle undulations and
acclivities, the extensive and fertile plain in the centre
of the parish being succeeded on each side by gradually
rising grounds ; and the fields are defined by well-
grown hedges, which, with the Clyde, and the numerous
and beautiful villas in different directions, constitute an
assemblage of very agreeable and interesting scenery.
The Clyde, after being joined by the Kelvin, runs
through the centre of the parish, and, though anciently
rather a narrow stream, is now a channel for ships of
600 tons' burthen, conveying stores from every part of
the world into the harbour of Glasgow. The soil in
general is of good quality, and produces fine crops of
grain, as well as of the best potatoes and turnips. The
five years' rotation is followed; and the ground is
largely supplied with manure from Glasgow, to which
it is chiefly indebted for its fertility : wheat and oats
are the chief grain, and are grown in considerable quan-
tities. Many improvements have been made, in remoter
as well as more recent times, in the agricultural cha-
GO V A
GOVA
racter of the district ; and the celebrated moor, depicted
in song as " the carpet of purple heath,'' now consists
of a number of well-inclosed fields, bearing, year after
year, as luxuriant crops as are any where to be met
with. Similar changes have been effected in other
parts, especially about Moss House and Heathery Hall.
At White-Inch, the low ground along the north side of
the Clyde has been recently enriched, and elevated to a
height of from ten to fifteen feet, by soil obtained from
the deepening and widening of the river, in consequence
of which the worth of the land has been nearly doubled.
The rateable annual value of Govau is £30,0/0.
The subterraneous contents of the parish are
chiefly coal, with the strata peculiar to that formation.
Several pits are regularly worked, in one of which, at
Bellahoustown, on the south of the river, a portion of
the layers consists of parrot or cannel coal, which sells
at a high price for the purpose of being converted into
gas. At Jordanhill and Cartnavel, about fifty fathoms
beneath the surface, are sixteen beds of coal, some of
them two feet thick, and part being, like the parrot
coal, of the finest quality for making gas. Above the
gas-coal, as well as at a lower depth, are numerous
seams of ironstone, which vary in thickness from five to
twelve inches, and are of excellent quality. The col-
lieries of Govan, forming part of the well-known Glas-
gow coal-fields, have been long wrought ; and it is
supposed that, beneath the seven principal seams now
open, lie others, which will afford a plentiful supply if
at any time those at present being worked should be
exhausted. The surface just above the coal is composed,
in general, of diluvial matter, containing rolled stones,
over which are deposits of sand, fine clay, and marine
shells. A number of fossil trees were discovered a few
years ago at Balgray, standing close to each other in
their natural position, though two feet only of the
trunks were found attached to the roots.
The population of the parish, which, has very consi-
derably increased of late years, from the growing pros-
perity of Glasgow, is chiefly employed in agriculture
and manufactures, and a large number in coal-pits
and quarries. In the village of Govan are 340 hand-
loom weavers ; a dye-work employs 118 hands ; and at
a small distance from the. village is a factory for throw-
ing silk, erected in 1S24, and which affords occupation
to about 250 persons. Near Port-Eglinton is a carpet
manufactory, established several years ago, in which
554 persons are engaged ; and various other concerns
are carried on in different parts, chiefly connected, with
the cotton manufacture. In the neighbourhood of the
collieries are iron-works, containing several blast-fur-
naces, which produce many hundred tons of pig-iron
annually ; and near these, a bar-iron manufactory, be-
longing to the same proprietor, has been constructed,
producing upwards of 400 tons weekly. There is a
fishery for salmon on the Clyde, the rent of which was
formerly £326 ; but it has fallen, since 1812, to £60
per annum, in consequence of the erection of the nu-
merous manufactories on the banks of the river. In
the villages of Govan and Partick are penny-posts, which
communicate with Glasgow twice each day. Four great
roads pass through the parish, one of which runs from
Glasgow to Paisley ; another leads to Kilmarnock and
Ayr ; the third to Port-Glasgow and Greenock, through
Renfrew ; and the fourth to the West Highlands by the
515
town of Dumbarton. The Glasgow and Johnstone canal
also intersects the parish, and a branch of the Forth
and Clyde canal touches its northern boundary. A
boat, capable of conveying horses and carriages, plies
upon the ferry that connects the two parts of the parish
at the village of Govan : all steam-boats, also, except
those of the largest class, land and take in passengers
here. The Pollock and Govan railway joins the mineral
fields on the south-east of Glasgow, with that city and
the harbour ; and the Greenock and Ayr railroad runs
for about three miles through the parish of Govan.
The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the pres-
bytery of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The
temporal immunities of the church came, at the time of
the Reformation, into the possession of the college of
Glasgow. The Regent Morton had offered the benefice
to his uncle, Andrew Melville, principal of the college,
on condition that he would not press his views of eccle-
siastical polity ; but this compromise being refused by
Melville, the regent conveyed the temporalities to the
college, devolving upon the principal the obligation of
serving the cure ; and since that time the university
has held the patronage. The' stipend of the minister
is £315, with a good manse, standing near the church,
and a glebe of seven acres, valued at £25 per annum.
The church, situated at the west end of the village of
Govan, and about 100 yards from the Clyde, was built in
1826, and is a plain structure containing 1096 sittings :
the design of the tower and spire was taken from the
church of Stratford-upon-Avon, in England. The church-
yard is raised several feet above the level of the adjacent
ground, and is surrounded by a double row of venerable
elms. There are places of worship belonging to the Free
Church, United Secession, Relief Church, and Roman
Catholics. The parochial school is situated in the vil-
lage of Govan; the master has the maximum salary,
with £1. 13. 4. from Glasgow college, £1. 19. accruing
from an ancient bequest of Lamb Hill, and £36 arising
from a sum of £200, left by Mr. Abram Hill, in 1757.
Mr. Hill was educated in the school as a poor orphan,
and his gift was invested in ten acres of land, now pro-
ducing the above sum, for which ten children are taught
gratuitously: the master has also £1S fees, a good
house, and an allowance in lieu of a garden. An infant
school was instituted at Partick, in 1S37, on a very
extensive scale ; and other schools are supported in dif-
ferent parts of the parish. There is a good parochial
library, under the management of the trustees of Mrs.
Thorn, its founder, and containing above 600 volumes ;
also a savings' bank, and several friendly societies.
The ruins of the once celebrated Hospital of Polmadie
were, at the close of the last century, among the most
interesting antiquities of the parish. This hospital
was built at a very remote period, for the reception of
persons of both sexes to be maintained for life ; and
was dedicated to St. John. The church and tempo-
ralities of Strathblane were early annexed to it, with
part of the lands of Little Govan ; and these posses-
sions, with many important privileges, were confirmed
to the establishment by Alexander III., Robert Bruce,
and several others. In the year 1427, Bishop Cameron,
with the consent of the chapter, erected the hospital,
and the church of Strathblane, into a prebend, with a
provision that the person collated to the office should
support a vicar in the parish of Strathblane, and pay
3 U2
G R A H
GRAI
four choristers to sing in the cathedral. St. Ninian's
Hospital, founded by Lady Lochow, in the fourteenth
century, for the reception of persons afflicted with
leprosy, partly occupied a piece of ground called St.
Ninian's croft, where Hutchesonton, formerly within this
parish, but now in Gorbals, at present stands ; and close
to its site, a number of human bones were not long
since found, pointing out the locality, as is supposed, of
the lepers' churchyard. On the south of the Clyde,
opposite the ferry-house, is an ancient circular hill,
thought to have been the sepulchre of some celebrated
hero ; and in another part of the parish is the picturesque
ruin of Hagg's Castle, built in 1585, by an ancestor of
Sir John Maxwell, of Pollock. — See Gorbals.
GOWAN-BANK, a hamlet, in the parish of St.
"Vigean's, county of Forfar j containing 72 inhabit-
ants.
GOWKHALL, a village, in the parish of Carnock,
district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 1 mile (E.)
from Carnock ; containing 196 inhabitants. It is situ-
ated in the eastern part of the parish, a short distance
north of the high road from Dunfermline to Carnock ;
and is one of three villages of which the population is
chiefly engaged in manufactures.
GOWKSHILL, a village, in the parish of Cock-
pen, county of Edinburgh ; containing 219 inhabit-
ants.
GPwEMSAY ISLE, in the parish of Hoy, county of
Orkney ; containing 214 inhabitants. It is one of the
Orkney group, and lies about a mile and a half south
from Stromness ; in length it is nearly two miles, and in
breadth one. The whole of the island is level, and is
either cultivated for the production of grain, or suffered
to remain in old grass for the pasturage of sheep and
cattle. Through almost its whole extent runs a bed of
schistus, or slate, used for the covering of houses. The
inhabitants excel in fishing. The principal disadvantage
under which they labour, is the scarcity of fuel. Grasm-
say was formerly a vicarage, but is now united to Hoy,
which see.
GRAHAMSTON, a village, in the parish of Fal-
kirk, county of Stirling, 1 mile (N.) from Falkirk.
This village derives its name from Sir John the Graham,
who was killed here in the battle which Wallace fought
with Edward I. in 1298. It forms part of the suburbs
of Falkirk, and is included within the burgh, and situ-
ated on the south bank of the Forth and Clyde canal,
over which is a drawbridge, connecting it with Bains-
ford. The houses are handsomely built, chiefly of
stone, and of modern appearance ; and there are nume-
rous shops, stored with various kinds of merchandise.
The labouring portion of the inhabitants are chiefly
employed in the Falkirk iron-works, and in those of the
Carron Company. From its situation on the canal, the
place carries on a considerable trade in timber and in
grain ; and numerous vessels arrive here with dried fish
for the market of Falkirk, where it finds a ready sale.
A post-office, subordinate to that of Falkirk, has been
established ; and there are several schools in the vil-
lage.
GRAHAMSTOWN, a village, in the parish of Neil-
ston, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 3 miles
(S. S. E.) from Paisley ; containing 706 inhabitants.
This village, like many others in the parish, is indebted
for its origin to the introduction of the cotton manufac-
516
ture into this district about the year 1790, and to the
erection of an extensive spinning-mill in 1S01, by Mr.
Graham, from whom it takes its name ; it is neatly
built, and principally inhabited by persons employed in
the cotton-works.
GRAITNEY, vulgarly called Gretna, a parish, in
the county of Dumfries, 9§ miles (N. by W.) from Car-
lisle, and 309 (N. W. by N.) from London ; containing,
with the village of Springfield, 1761 inhabitants. The
derivation of the name of this place is doubtful ; but it
is usually traced to the words Great knowe, descriptive
of a hill standing at the distance of about a quarter of a
mile from the church. The district is chiefly memo-
rable for the many bloody feuds of which it was for-
merly the scene, as the frontier land of Scotland, and
the celebration of which in tales and songs has scarcely
at this time altogether passed away. The parish is
skirted on the east by the river Sark ; and the lands
lying between that river and the Esk, now forming the
English parish of Kirkandrews, were for many ages
debateable ground, being common to both England and
Scotland. These lands extended eight miles in length
and four in breadth, and were long held by a kind of
lawless banditti, whose chief employment was rapine
and smuggling. In the year 1552, however, a line of
demarkation was agreed upon by the sovereigns of the
respective kingdoms ; but notwithstanding this, the
habits of the people continued nearly the same until
the union of the crowns under James VI., from which
time the state of the population gradually improved.
The parish is six miles in length and three in
breadth, and contains about 11,000 acres. It is bounded
on the north by the parishes of Kirkpatrick-Fleming
and Halfmorton ; on the south by the Solway Frith ;
on the east by the county of Cumberland ; and on the
west by the parish of Dornock. The surface is generally
level towards the south and west; but towards the
east and north it is diversified by many gentle accli-
vities, of which Graitney, the highest, rises about 250
feet above the sea. This eminence commands a beau-
tiful and extensive view of the valleys of Esk and Eden,
the Solway Frith, the coast of Cumberland, and St.
Bees in a southern direction, and the mountains of
Dumfriesshire and Northumberland. The eastern por-
tion of the parish, from the number of its hedge rows,
has the appearance of being well wooded ; and the lands
in this quarter are thickly interspersed with ash, oak,
and plane trees, among which the first predominates.
These, with the laburnum, give a pleasing variety to
the scenery, and indicate, by their fine and expansive
growth, the fostering power of a congenial soil. The
whole southern boundary of the parish is washed by the
Solway, the flat shore of which consists of sand and
clay ; but the only part of the coast approximating to
the character of a bay is the curve between Redkirk and
Tordoff points, the latter of which is about two miles
from Bowness, on the opposite shore. The Frith, in
the widest part, is between four and five miles across ;
and it is navigable as far as Sarkfoot, in this parish,
for vessels of 120 tons' burthen. The tide flows with
great rapidity, and rises, at its spring, twenty feet above
the low-water mark ; when it recedes, the streams of
the rivers Esk and Eden, which run into the Solway
from Cumberland, are seen with a wide bed of inter-
mediate sand, and the Frith appears like a sandy waste,
G R A I
GRAN
for a distance of forty miles, to the south-western ex-
tremity of Dumfriesshire, where the river Nith joins it.
There are several little landing places along the shore ;
but the navigation is dangerous to those not acquainted
with the soundings of the Frith. The Kirtle stream
divides the parish into two nearly equal portions.
There are excellent salmon-fisheries on the coast, and
sturgeon, cod, and herrings are occasionally caught :
salmon ascend the rivers for spawning, in the beginning
of October, and return early in March.
The soil near the sea is a rich loam, with a subsoil
of deep strong clay, and has the appearance of having
been transported hither by the tides, which formerly
came much higher up than at present. Further inland,
the earth partakes more of the nature of clay and
gravel, resting upon hills of sand of great dimensions.
Portions of peat-moss are seen in different places, in
which the remains of large oak-trees are imbedded; and
in some of these, silver coins have been discovered,
without a date, but bearing the scarcely legible marks
of Canterbury and London, and partly belonging to
the reign of one of the Edwards. About 10,000 acres
are cultivated, or occasionally in tillage : 300 acres
have never been cultivated, and sixty are planted with
wood. All kinds of green crops and grain are pro-
duced, oats being the chief crop of the latter; and
considerable quantities of every sort of live stock are
kept. The most improved system of husbandry is fol-
lowed : the manure in use comprises dung and lime, and
guano, the lime being brought from several of the neigh-
bouring parishes. The farms have been considerably
enlarged, and are well inclosed with hedges; and the
superior method of cultivation which has been pursued
has nearly tripled the worth of the land since the year
1790, the rateable annual value of the parish now
amounting to £6069. The prevailing rock is sandstone,
through which many excellent springs of water find a
passage. Among the villages and hamlets is that of
Gretna, where a weekly cattle-market was formerly held,
and which was a burgh of barony : the cross was
standing till within these few years. The ancient man-
sion of Graitney Hall, in which one of the landowners
once resided, has been fitted up in an elegant and com-
modious manner, as an inn ; it is properly conducted,
and every accommodation may be had, the same as at
the best inns in England. The population are partly
engaged in agriculture : about 600 persons are cotton-
weavers, employed by Carlisle houses, and who receive
the yarn regularly every fortnight. Vessels of 100 tons
arrive at various places along the shore, from the ports
of Cumberland, and bring coal to the amount of 600
tons yearly, together with about an equal quantity of
slate. Grain and potatoes are largely exported to Liver-
pool and other places on the coast of Lancashire. Till
the commencement of the present century, an extensive
contraband trade was carried on with the Isle of Man ;
but this traffic, with all its injurious consequences, has
been abolished. The turnpike-roads between Glasgow
and Carlisle, and between Carlisle and Portpatrick, run
through the parish ; and the old road to Carlisle crosses
the Glasgow road at the village of Gretna, where is a
post-office, connected with that of Carlisle. There are
two bridges over the Sark, and one over the Kirtle,
which, as well as the roads, are kept in good order. A
cattle-market is held in June, and fairs on the loth of
517
September, the first Thursday after Falkirk tryst in
October, and the second Thursday in November.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the pres-
bytery of Annan and synod of Dumfries ; patron, the
Earl of Mansfield. The stipend of the minister is £237 :
the manse has recently been enlarged and repaired, and
is now a comfortable residence ; the glebe consists of
about sixteen acres, valued at £2S per annum. The
church was built in 1790, and is a commodious building
capable of containing 800 persons. There is a meeting-
house at the village of Rigg, belonging to the United
Associate Synod. Two parochial schools are supported,
in which the usual branches of education are taught,
and the masters of which have each £25 a year, with
fees amounting to about £24 and £20 respectively. A
friendly society was instituted more than fifty years
ago. There are several ruinous towers in the parish, the
relics of ancient times, and raised for the defence of the
inhabitants against the English borderers ; the walls
were of great thickness, and the doors of massive iron,
and within were formed caves for the safe custody of
cattle, &c. They have port-holes above, for the in-
specting or carrying on of warlike operations. The
lands of Redkirk were formerly a separate parish ; but
its church, situated at Redkirk point, has been entirely
swept away by the repeated encroachment of the tide.
The remains of a Druidical temple are still visible on
the farm of Old Graitney ; and there are also the re-
mains of several old camps in the neighbourhood. This
being the nearest and most easily accessible point in
Scotland from the sister kingdom, it has long been a
place for fugitive marriages, first celebrated here by a
man named Paisley, a tobacconist, whose original resi-
dence was on a green between Gretna and Springfield,
to the latter of which villages he removed in 1*82. It
is said that between 300 and 400 marriages are annu-
ally celebrated in the neighbourhood by rival " priests,"
functionaries of the lowest class, who accost parties as
they pass, and officiate for a very small charge. An
attempt was made in the General Assembly, in 1826,
to suppress this description of marriage, but without
success. Paisley died at a great age, in 1814.
GRANGE, a parish, in the county of Banff, 3 miles
(E. by N.) from Keith ; containing 1661 inhabitants.
This place originally formed a part of the parish of
Keith, from which it was separated in the year 1618;
it took its name from the circumstance of its being a
country residence belonging to the abbots of Kinloss,
to whom it was given by William the- Lion in the 12th
century. Attracted by the beauty of the place, at that
time mostly under wood, the abbots had a castle here,
situated upon an eminence, partly natural and partly
artificial, and overlooking rich and extensive haughs,
enlivened and refreshed for several miles by the mean-
derings of the picturesque Isla. In the neighbourhood
is the Gallow-hill, the spot upon which criminals were
executed within the local jurisdiction. At the time of
the Reformation, the abbot, anticipating the change
about to take place, feued out the district into many
small properties, of which that of Edingight still be-
longs to the descendant of the original feuar, and about
four-fifths of the others to Lord Fife, who inherits from
his ancestor, Alexander Duff, of Braco, another of the
first feuars. The remaining portion is in the possession
of the Earl of Seafield.
GRAN
GRAN
The parish is six miles in length and five in breadth,
and comprises about "20,000 acres, of which a large por-
tion is under cultivation : there are extensive plan-
tations of young wood. The surface is much diversified,
and consists of high and low ground, the latter com-
prehending most of the cultivated parts : on the east is
the Knock, an eminence rising 1600 feet above the level
of the sea, and cultivated to a considerable height.
This hill is chiefly covered with deep peat and heather,
the moss running, at the summit, to the depth of eight
or ten feet ■ and from it a very fine and extensive view
may be obtained both of land and sea. In the dry
summer of 1826, its sides were surrounded by a con-
flagration, destroying the combustible portion of the
surface ; but it has not been ascertained in what way
the fire originated. There are also several lofty hills in
the northern part of the parish ; in the southern divi-
sion are two called the Mickle and Little Balloch, or-
namented around their base with wood ; and in
the centre is the Sillyearn, where there is a young,
though large and thriving, plantation. The scenery is
much indebted for its variety to its sylvan beauties,
and to the course of its interesting stream, on the south
of which a wide belt of larch and Scotch fir, of recent
growth, especially improves the locality ; and the Isla
is rendered still more striking in pictorial effect by an
ancient bridge, erected by a Mr. Christie, to render the
church accessible to the residents of'Cantly. This bene-
volent act was notified, and the memory of it trans-
mitted to posterity, by an inscription on a stone once
part .of the bridge, but now supposed to be submerged
in the flood below, consisting of these words : " Built
by Alexander Christie, tenant in Cantly, for the glory
of God, and the good of the people of Grange." A
provision was made for the repairs of the bridge by the
deposit of 100 merks in the hands of the laird of Edin-
gight; and though this sum is supposed to have been
long since exhausted, an addition was made to the
structure in the year 1/83, by erecting, and cementing
to it, another bridge of the same size, to render it
passable by carts, the first being only for foot-pas-
sengers. The cost of this was defrayed by the transfer,
on the part of the patron, of the vacant stipend of that
year.
The soil in some parts is very good, particularly on
the banks of the Isla, where the ground, having a fine
southern exposure, is tolerably dry, and produces early
crops ; but in the other parts, especially in the northern
quarter, the soil is clayey, cold, and wet, with an imper-
vious subsoil, and not only comparatively unproductive,
but frequently of very poor quality. Oats forms the
staple crop of grain ; and the green crops consist of
rye-grass and white and red clover. Husbandry is on
a very respectable footing, and the six-shift course is
that chiefly followed : bone-manure is much used for
turnip-soils, and most of the larger farms have
threshing-mills, and are inclosed with limestone dikes
and good hedges. The portion under tillage is gradu-
ally increasing in extent ; and many of the lower parts
of the heathy and mossy hill of Aulmore, which is in-
terspersed with numerous cottages of the poor, have
been brought into cultivation. Substantial embank-
ments, also, have been raised on some of the farms,
against the floodings of the Isla ; and on the better
cultivated lands, all the implements of agriculture are
518
of the best description, and the horses and cattle of a
superior stock. Limestone of very fine quality is abun-
dant, and is constantly worked to a great extent ; many
of the small farms have lime-kilns, and large lime-works
are also in operation. At a place called Seggiecroolc
is a bed of plumbago. The deep and wide-spreading
mosses supply abundance of peat for fuel ; and the
residue of the woods once beautifying the locality, is
found deeply imbedded, comprising thick logs of oak
and fir. The rateable annual value of Grange is £5299.
The mansion of Edingight, in the parish, is an ancient
structure, irregularly built, and standing on an estate
ornamented with young plantations covering fifty or
sixty acres. Braco was formerly the residence of the
ancient family of Duff. There is a hamlet named Nether-
mills ; and the parish is traversed by the turnpike-road
from Keith to Banff : the produce, consisting of grain,
pork, and fat-cattle, is shipped chiefly at Banff, for the
London market. Grange is in the presbytery of Strath-
bogie and synod of Moray, and in the patronage of the
Earl of Fife; the minister's stipend is £165, with a
manse, and a glebe of five acres, valued at £7 per
annum. The church was built in 1795, and contains
6 16 sittings; it is situated within a mile of the border
of the parish, on the site of the old castle occupied by
the abbots of Kinloss. There is a place of worship
for members of the Free Church, and another for the
United Associate Synod. The parochial school affords
instruction in the usual branches ; the master has a
salary of £34, with a house, and about £6 fees. He
also receives a bequest of £1. 2. yearly ; the interest of
£100 left by the late Rev. Mr. Bruce, minister of
Dunbar ; and a portion of the Dick bequest. There is
likewise a General Assembly's school, the master of
which has £25 per annum, with a small piece of land :
the premises were built by subscription, in 1827,
through the exertions of the minister, the Rev. W. Duff;
and the tenants on the estate subscribe for the rent
of the master's allotment. The Earl of Fife derives his
title of Baron Braco from the farm of that name.
GRANGE, a hamlet, in the parish and district of
St. Andrew's, county of Fife, l£ mile (S. by E.) from
St. Andrew's ; containing 84 inhabitants. It lies a
short distance west of the high road from West Anstru-
ther to St. Andrew's.
GRANGE, a hamlet, in the parish of Errol, county
of Perth, 2 miles (N. E. by N.) from Errol; contain-
ing 68 inhabitants. It is seated on the road from Errol
to Invergowrie, and is one of several small hamlets in
the parish, besides the village of Errol, in which the
linen-cloth manufacture engages a part of the popula-
tion.
GRANGEMOUTH, lately a quoad sacra parish, in
the county of Stirling; comprising the sea-port town
of Grangemouth, in the parish of Falkirk, and also part
of Polmont parish ; the whole containing 1722 inhabit-
ants, of whom 1488 are in the town, 3 miles (N. E.)
from Falkirk. This place derives its name from its
original situation at the mouth of the Grange burn, a
stream flowing round the grange of the ancient abbey of
Abbotshaugh, but now, by a recent diversion of its
course, falling into the river Carron at a considerable
distance to the east. The town, which is situated at
the eastern extremity of the Forth and Clyde canal, was
commenced in the year 1777, by Sir Laurence Dundas.
GRAN
GRAN
The streets may be said to be regularly formed, and the
houses are well built and of handsome appearance ; the
environs are pleasant, and the place has generally a
cheerful and prepossessing aspect. The trade of the
port has been progressively increasing since the forma-
tion of the harbour ; and in 1S10, an independent cus-
tom-house was in consequence established here. The
trade consists principally in the exportation of coal,
glass, and bricks to Russia, Sweden, and Norway ; pig
and wrought iron, to Denmark ; coal, soap, woollens, and
pig-iron, to Prussia; coal, pig and cast iron, and cotton
manufactures, to Holland ; pig and cast iron to Ger-
many ; coal, pig-iron, glass, and bricks, to France, Por-
tugal, Italy, and Turkey ; glass, and woollen and cotton
manufactures, to Van Diemen's Land ; coal, bricks,
cordage, woollens, and cottons, to Canada and New
Brunswick ; and coal and beer to the ports of Brazil. The
imports are chiefly corn, tallow, flax, hemp, matting,
tar, bristles, and wooden wares, from Russia ; manga-
nese ore, pitch, and linseed-cakes, from Sweden ; corn
from Denmark and Germany ; corn, flax, timber, and
wooden wares, from Prussia ; bark, cheese, madder, and
geneva, from Holland ; and timber from Canada and
New Brunswick. The number of vessels that cleared
outwards in a recent year to foreign ports was 615, of
the aggregate burthen of 61,979 tons ; the number that
entered inwards from foreign ports was 14S, of 21,145
tons ; and the amount of duties paid at the custom-
house was £20,000. This sum, however, does not show
the full trade of the place, as a large part of the goods
imported was removed, under bond, to Glasgow, where
the duties were paid. The number of vessels regis-
tered as belonging to the port, in the same year, was
fifty-two, of 72*0 tons' aggregate burthen. A con-
siderable coasting trade is also carried on here ; and
a very extensive inland trade by means of the Forth
and Clyde canal, which is navigable for vessels of ninety
tons from this place to Port-Dundas, near Glasgow, and
also to the Clyde, and through which the number of
vessels that passed in a late year was 2959. The cus-
tom-house establishment consists of a collector, comp-
troller, clerk, two land-waiters, six tide-waiters, and a
locker ; and the officers of the Canal Company here, are
a collector, overseer of works, and a harbour-master.
The harbour and quays are situated near the mouth
of the river Carron, at its junction with the Forth and
Clyde canal. Considerable improvements have been
recently made, under the superintendence of Sir John
Macueill, civil engineer, of London, employed for that
purpose by the late Earl of Zetland and the council
of the Canal Company. According to the plan adopted,
the channel of the Grange burn has been changed, and
a spacious wet-dock to the east of the harbour has been
constructed, which is twenty-seven feet in depth, and
capable of receiving seventy sail of merchantmen or
steamers of the largest class. The entrance-lock is 250
feet in length and 55 feet broad, and the facilities of trade
have been consequently greatly increased. The basin
for bonded timber has been very much enlarged ; and a
canal, fifteen feet in depth, has been cut, forming a
communication between it and the wet-dock. The river
Carron has been deepened so as to allow canal traders,
drawing nine feet water, to enter and to depart at low
tides ; and all the local advantages of the port have
been rendered available to its improvement, and to the
519
extension of its commerce. Ship-building is carried on
with success ; and a graving-dock, which, at spring
tides, has a depth of fourteen feet, was constructed by
Lord Dundas in 1811, and is capable of receiving two
vessels of 300 tons' burthen. The first steam-boat built
here, was launched in 1839 as a towing vessel for the
port of Memel : the vessels generally built at this place
vary from ninety to 250 tons. The manufacture of sails
and ropes is also extensive, and considerable quantities
are exported to the colonies. The distance from the
quay to the farthest beacon at the mouth of the Carron,
is nearly a mile and a half : vessels were formerly ex-
clusively conducted by the Carron pilots stationed here
under the Trinity House of Leith, but they are now
partly towed by steam-boats.
The parochial district until recently attached to the
port, was separated for ecclesiastical purposes soon
after the erection of a church here in 1837. It com-
prised about 1300 acres, of which 100, forming the
demesne of Kerse House, a seat of the Earl of Zetland,
are ornamented with thriving plantations, and the re-
mainder is divided into farms not exceeding 120 acres
each. The surface is generally fiat, and the soil almost
uniformly a rich alluvial clay, with a small intermixture
of fine white sand ; the lands are well cultivated, and
the crops are usually favourable. Kerse House is the
principal mansion in the district ; it is surrounded with
thriving plantations, and there are a few trees around
some of the farm-houses ; but otherwise there is little
wood in the neighbourhood. The church was erected
by the late earl, and is situated near Kerse House ; it is a
handsome structure in the Norman style of architecture,
and contains 700 sittings, exclusively of the front gal-
lery, which is appropriated to the family of the founder.
In the year 1843, this edifice, with the consent of the
Earl of Zetland, passed into the hands of the members
of the Free Church, of whom there is now a very consi-
derable congregation : the minister derives his stipend
from the sustentation fund of the Free Church, aided by
his hearers. The only other place of worship is one for
Baptists ; but many of the inhabitants attend places of
worship at Falkirk. Schools for boys and girls, with
dwelling-houses for the master and mistress, and a
room which is used as a library, were erected by the
late Lady Dundas, in 1827. The master has a salary
of £10, and the mistress of £5, paid by the Earl of
Zetland, with an allowance for the gratuitous instruction
of poor children ; and the fees average £40 and £20
per annum, respectively.
GRANGEPANS, a village, in the parish of Carri-
den, county of Linlithgow, | a mile (E. by S.) from
Borrowstounness ; containing 517 inhabitants. It is
situated on the south shore of the Frith of Forth, and
nearly equidistant from Borrowstounness and Bridge-
ness. The place has been for some time the seat of the
salt manufacture, and although the trade in the article
has been much reduced, yet in 1834 there were six pans
in operation, producing annually about 23,000 bushels ;
in 1843 the number of pans had decreased to four. In
the village is also a malting establishment ; and until
lately the manufacture of sal-ammoniac was carried on.
The mansion-house of Grange is of some antiquity, and,
having undergone repair, is now occupied by a tenant.
The coast road from Borrowstounness to Bridgeness
passes through the village.
GRAN
GRE E
GRANTON, a growing town, in the parish of Cra-
mond, county of Edinburgh, 1\ miles (N. W.) from
Edinburgh. This place, formerly remarkable only as
the spot where the English troops under the Earl of
Hertford disembarked in the year 1544, now claims
importance for its magnificent and extensive pier, the
finest landing-place in the Frith of Forth. This truly
national work was erected, at his sole expense, by the
Duke of Buccleuch, who is proprietor of the estate of
Caroline Park, formerly called Granton. It was com-
menced in November, 1835, and partially opened on
the 28th of June, 1838, the day of the coronation of Her
Majesty, by Lord John Scott, brother of his Grace, in
presence of an immense concourse of spectators ; and in
commemoration of the day, one of the jetties is named
the "Victoria." Vessels and steamers of the largest
size can approach the pier, which is 1700 feet in length,
and varies in breadth from eighty to 160 feet; it has
a massive wall with occasional entrances to each side of
the pier, running up the centre ; and the whole is of the
most solid and beautiful masonry. The Victoria jetty,
on the west side, extends ninety feet ; on the east side
is a jetty of similar dimensions ; and two others are at
the distance of about 350 feet seawards. There are
also two slips for shipping cattle ; and a lighthouse at
the extremity of the pier. On the Queen's visit to this
part of her dominions in IS42, Granton pier was the
place of Her Majesty's landing, on the 1st of September,
and of her embarkation, on her return to England, on
the 15th of the same month. In July, 1844, an act was
obtained for the extension of the Edinburgh and New-
haven railway to Granton ; the line has been com-
menced, and, it is expected, will be completed in 1846.
An elegant and commodious inn has been erected here
by the Duke of Buccleuch, and there is already the
nucleus of a handsome town and sea-port. The most
direct road from Edinburgh to Granton is by Inverleith-
row, at the head of which is the new road, on the left,
through Wardie grounds.
GRANTOWN, a town, in the parish of Cromdale,
county of Inverness, 135 miles (N. by W.) from Edin-
burgh ; containing 1000 inhabitants. This place, situated
about half a mile north of the river Spey, was founded
upon an uncultivated moor, in 1/66, by Sir James
Grant, of Grant, Bart., since which it has risen to a
flourishing condition, and become one of the neatest and
most interesting towns, in appearance, in the north of
Scotland. It contains several good shops : and in its
centre is a spacious square, 700 feet in length, and 180
in breadth, on the south side of which is the Speyside
Orphan Hospital, built in 1S24, with money left by Lady
Grant, of Monymusk. This charity is supported from
a fund amounting to nearly £200 per annum, which has
increased to the present sum by additions from the
Grant family : the children, now about thirty in num-
ber, must be natives of the parishes of Cromdale, Aber-
nethy, Duthil, Inveraven, or Knockando, and they are
boarded, clothed, and educated. A branch of the Na-
tional Bank of Scotland was established in 1829, and a
branch of the Caledonian Bank in 1839 ; there is also a
prison in the town. The post-office communicates daily
with Carr-bridge, Forres, and Ballindalloch ; and a good
road runs from the place to Keith, and another to
Forres. There are four annual markets, exclusive of
cattle-trysts ; cattle are purchased here by graziers for
520
the southern markets, and much traffic is also carried
on with the surrounding districts. A church was built
in 1802, a little to the north of the town, containing
accommodation for nearly 1000 persons ; and the paro-
chial minister officiated here alternately with the church
at Cromdale, till the year 1S35, when an ordained
minister was appointed to this station, comprehending
the old parish of Inverallan. There is also a place of
worship for Baptists. A grammar school was built a few
years since by the proprietor, from whom the master
receives a salary of £25 per annum : in addition to the
usual branches, instruction is given in the classics and
mathematics.
GRASSHOUSES OF THORNTON, a hamlet, in the
parish of Glammis, county of Forfar ; containing 74
inhabitants.
GRAYSTONE, a hamlet, in the parish ofCARMYHE,
county of Forfar, 4 miles (S. byE.) from Letham ; con-
taining 79 inhabitants. It lies about a mile westward
of the high road from Monikie to Brechin ; and is one
of several small hamlets, of which the largest contains
about twenty houses.
GREAT CUMBRAY. — See Cumbray, Great.—
And all places having a similar distinguishing prefix, will
be found under the proper name.
GREEN HOLM, an isle, in the parish of North-
mayine, county of Shetland. It lies a short distance
north of the main land of Northmavine, between Fetha-
land point and Romna Stacks, and is uninhabited.
GREEN HOLM, an isle, in the parish of Tingwall,
county of Shetland. This is an islet of very inconsi-
derable extent, one of the smallest of the Shetland
group, situated about a mile south-west of Scalloway, a
sea-port village on the main land of the parish. It is
uninhabited.
GREEN HOLM, LITTLE and MUCKLE, two isles,
in the parish of Eday, county of Orkney. They lie to
the south of the island of Eday, about a mile distant
from Warness point. The larger is appropriated to the
pasturage of cattle and sheep ; the smaller is very in-
considerable, and both are uninhabited.
GREENEND, a village, in the parish of Old Monk-
land, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 1 mile
(S. W.) from Airdrie ; containing 502 inhabitants. It
is situated in the eastern part of the parish, a short dis-
tance north of the Calder water, which is here very
devious in its course ; and is one of numerous large
villages which have latterly sprung up in this wealthy
mining parish, now the principal seat of the iron manu-
facture in Scotland. The village is in the immediate
vicinity of the great Calder iron-works, and of extensive
coal-mines, in both of which a large portion of the male
population is engaged.
GREENGAIRS, a village, in the parish of New
Monkland, Middle ward of the county of Lanark,
3 miles (N. E.) from New Monkland; containing 184
inhabitants. This place is situated in the north-east
part of the parish, and is divided into East and West.
It is one of several thriving villages which owe their
prosperity and increase of population to the valuable
coal and iron mines of the district. The high road
from New Monkland to Slamannan church runs for a
short distance on the south; and in the neighbourhood
are some small streams. In the village is a school, with
a house for the master.
GREE
GREE
GREENHILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Lochma-
ben, county of Dumfries, 2 miles (S. W. by W.) from
Lockerbie ; containing S9 inhabitants. It is seated in
the eastern part of the parish, and on the west side of
the river Annan, which winds along the borders of
Lochmaben, and separates it from the parish of Dryfes-
dale.
GREENLAW, a burgh of barony, the county town,
and a parish, in the county of Berwick, 8 miles (S. W.)
from Dunse, and 36 (S. E. by E.) from Edinburgh ;
containing 1355 inhabitants. This place is supposed
to have derived its name from the situation of the
ancient village on one of those conical eminences of
which there are several in the parish, which eminence,
from its superior verdure, obtained the appellation of
the Green Law. The manor anciently belonged to the
earls of Dunbar, under whom Sir Patrick Home, ances-
tor of the Home family, held the lands in 1435, when
the earldom became annexed to the crown. After Ber-
wick had ceased to be part of Scotland, in 14S2, the
courts of justice previously held there were generally
held at Dunse, and occasionally at Lauder, till towards
the close of the seventeenth century, when the town of
Greenlaw was declared, by act of parliament, to be the
head burgh of the shire. Since that time this has con-
tinued to be the county town. The burgh, of which
Sir Hugh Hume Purves Campbell, of Marchmont, Bart.,
is superior, is pleasantly situated on the north bank of
the river Blackadder, over which are two bridges of
stone ; and consists principally of one street of con-
siderable length, opening, on the south side, into a spa-
cious quadrangular area. In the centre of this area
was the market cross, a handsome Corinthian column,
erected by the Earl of Marchmont, and on the site of
which is the present county-hall. The houses are neatly
built ; and the inhabitants are amply supplied with water,
conveyed into two spacious reservoirs of stone, erected
at the expense of the superior of the burgh. A public
library, containing a well-assorted collection of volumes,
is supported by subscription; and there are several
good inns in the town.
No manufacture is carried on here, and only a few per-
sons are employed in a carding and fulling mill ; a con-
siderable degree of traffic, however, arises from its situ-
ation as a public thoroughfare, and there is a post-office
subordinate to that of Dunse. The weekly market has
long been discontinued : but fairs are held on the 22nd
of May, and the last Thursday in October, for milch-
cows and various kinds of cattle, and are numerously
attended. Facility of communication is afforded by the
great road from London to Edinburgh, by way of Cold-
stream, and others that pass through the place. As the
county town, the sheriff's and usual courts are held, and
the public business of the county transacted, here ; the
sheriff's and commissary courts occur every Thursday
during the session, and the justice-of-peace courts for
small debts, monthly. The county-hall is a handsome
structure in the Grecian style of architecture, erected by
the late Sir W. P. H. Campbell, and contains a hall
sixty feet long, forty feet wide, and twenty-eight feet in
height, ornamented with columns of the Corinthian
order; also various apartments for the accommodation
of the sheriffs and others attending the county meetings.
The principal entrance is by an elegant vestibule, lighted
by a dome, and containing a room for the preservation
Vol. I.— 521
of the records. The new gaol, erected in 1824, is a
neat building containing eighteen sleeping-cells, two
day-rooms for criminals, and one for debtors ; attached
to the day-rooms are spacious airing-yards, to which
the prisoners have access during the day, and the whole
is surrounded by a lofty wall. There is a plentiful sup-
ply of water ; and the prison is under excellent ma-
nagement.
The parish is from eight to nine miles in length, and
nearly three miles in average breadth, comprising an
area of about 12,000 acres, of which nearly 7000 are
arable, 500 woodland and plantations, 1200 undivided
common affording good pasture, and the remainder
moor, moss, and waste. The surface is diversified with
hills of no great elevation, and, in the upper part of the
parish, is intersected for almost two miles by a gravelly
ridge called the Kaimes, about sixty yards in width at
the base, and forty feet high. On the south side of this
ridge is the moss of Dugden, 500 acres in extent, and
in some places ten feet deep, yielding peat which, when
properly dried, is little inferior to coal. The only river
of importance is the Blackadder, which flows through
the parish, dividing it into two nearly equal parts, and,
about two miles above the town, being joined by a
small stream called the Faungrass ; it abounds with
trout, and is much frequented by anglers. The soil on
the south side of the Blackadder is a deep rich loam,
producing grain of excellent quality, and on the north
side, moorland and heath ; the crops are, wheat, oats,
barley, potatoes, and turnips, with the usual grasses.
The system of husbandry is in an improved state ; the
lands have been drained and partly inclosed, and the
farm-buildings are generally substantial. The pastures
are well adapted for sheep and black-cattle, of which
considerable numbers are reared in the parish ; and horses
for agricultural purposes are bred upon many of the
farms. The rateable annual value of the parish is £7410.
The rocks are mostly of the primitive formation, and
the substrata principally red sandstone ; white sand-
stone and a claystone porphyry are also found in some
places. The mansions are Rowchester and Lambden,
both of modern erection : the pleasure-grounds and
house of Marchmont, also, the noble seat of Sir H. H. P.
Campbell, though situated in the adjoining parish of
Polwarth, add much to the beauty of the scenery of
Greenlaw. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Dunse and synod
of Merse and Teviotdale. The minister's stipend is
£254. 15., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £30
per annum ; patron, Sir H. H. P. Campbell. The church,
situated in the town, is a plain structure in good repair,
containing 476 sittings. There are places of worship
for members of the Free Church, the United Secession,
and Original Burghers. The parochial school is attended
by about 130 children ; the master has a salary of £34,
with a house and garden, and the fees average £50.
Sir W. P. H. Campbell bequeathed £50 per annum to the
poor. There are some remains of a Roman camp on the
north bank of the Blackadder, about two miles from the
town ; and directly opposite to it, on the other side of
the river, several trenches diverge towards Hume Castle,
four miles distant. On the north-east of the parish, also,
are still visible the remains of an intrenchment, inter-
secting the moor from east to west for more than a
mile ; it is called Herriot's Dyke.
3 X
G R E E
GREE
Burgh Seal.
GREENLOANING, a village, in the parish of Dun-
blane, county of Perth, 5 miles (N. E. by N.) from
Dunblane ; containing 5S^inhabitants. It is situated in
the north-east part of the parish, and on the east bank
of the river Allan : there .is a Secession place of wor-
ship.
GREENOCK, a sea-port,
burgh, and market-town, in
the Lower ward of the county
of Renfrew, 17 miles (W. N.
W.) from Renfrew, 22 (W. N.
W.) from Glasgow, and 65
(W.) from Edinburgh ; com-
prising the parishes of East,
Middle, and West Greenock,
and containing 36,936 inha-
bitants. This place is said
by some to have derived its
name, in the Gaelic language
Grian-chnoc, from the site of its ancient baronial castle
on a hill unsheltered by any intervening object from
the rays of the sun. It originally consisted partly of
the lands of Easter Greenock, in which is the suburb of
Cartsdyke, or, as it is also called, Crawfurdsdyke, so
named from the erection of a small quay by its proprie-
tor, Thomas Crawfurd, Esq. ; and partly of the small
village of Greenock, belonging to Sir John Shaw, owner
of the barony of Wester Greenock, and who, in 1669,
purchased from Margaret Crawfurd, lady of Kilberny,
the barony of Easter Greenock, with the exception of
the lands of Crawfurdsdyke, which are now the pro-
perty of William Crawfurd, Esq. On the decease of Sir
J. Shaw, the last of that name, in 1752, John Shaw Stew-
art, Esq., afterwards Sir John Shaw Stewart, succeeded
to the lands of Easter and Wester Greenock, in right of
his mother; and on his death in 1S12, they passed to
his nephew, Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, from whom they
descended to Sir Michael Robert Shaw Stewart, the
present proprietor.
The villages both of Wester Greenock and Crawfurds-
dyke at first consisted only of a few thatched huts,
stretching along the bay, and inhabited by fishermen ;
but they gradually increased, and in 16/0, Sir John, son
of the former Sir John Shaw, obtained from Charles II.
a charter annexing the lands of Finnart, of which he
had become proprietor, to the barony of Wester Gree-
nock, and erecting both into one barony, under the
designation of the barony of Greenock. The inhabitants
appear to have pursued the fishery with success ; they
had some shipping, and carried on a considerable coast-
ing, and a small foreign, trade, chiefly in herrings, of
which, in 1674, they sent 20,000 barrels to Rochelle,
exclusively of other quantities to Sweden and the Baltic.
The two places had each a harbour capable of receiving
vessels of large burthen ; and from that of Crawfurds-
dyke, a part of the expedition to Darien was fitted out,
in 1697- The union of the two kingdoms opened to
the inhabitants new channels of commerce ; and in
1719, they fitted out the first vessel employed in the
American trade, which they afterwards prosecuted with
singular success, bringing home great quantities of
tobacco, which they exported for the supply of the con-
tinent. The rapidly-increasing importance of Greenock
was, in fact, such that it excited the jealousy of the
ports of London, Bristol, and Liverpool ; but the break-
522
ing out of the American war greatly obstructed its chief
source of prosperity, and the loss of the American trade
for some time impeded the commercial interests of the
port. It was, however, soon counterbalanced by an
enlarged traffic with South America and the East and
West India colonies ; the trade of the port revived ;
and it has continued to increase till the present time,
the place now ranking as one of the principal sea-ports
of the country. The town, extending in every direction
for the accommodation of its growing population, has
become the residence of numerous merchants and ship-
owners; the seat of various thriving manufactures, which
put it nearly on a par with the most flourishing com-
mercial and manufacturing towns in the kingdom ; and
more recently, a parliamentary borough.
The town is beautifully situated on the south shore
of the Frith of Clyde, which is here four and a half
miles broad ; and extends for almost a mile along the
margin of the united bays of Greenock and Crawfurds-
dyke. The buildings occupy a narrow site of level
land, bounded on the south by a ridge of hills which
rises abruptly to an elevation of nearly 600 feet imme-
diately above the town, commanding a richly-diversified
view of the Frith and the coast of Dumbarton, on the
north, and much variety of interesting scenery on the
east and west. The place is for the most part very
irregularly built, consisting, in the older portion, of vari-
ous narrow and ill-formed streets, and in that of more
modern date, of several spacious and handsome streets,
with numerous pleasant villas, especially towards the
west, iu which direction chiefly the houses are increas-
ing. It is paved, lighted with gas, and amply supplied
with water from the vicinity, passed through filters
previously to its being distributed through the town,
the necessary works having been constructed by a com-
pany incorporated by act of parliament, in 1825, chiefly
for providing water-power for giving motion to the
machinery of mills and factories. For this latter pur-
pose, an enterprize of vast magnitude has been com-
pleted under the direction of Mr. Thorn, civil engineer,
and proprietor of the Rothesay cotton-works, at the
suggestion of Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, from whom the
undertaking is called the Shaw's-water works. These
works, which are mostly situated at a distance of about
three miles, on the south-west side of the ridge of hills
that overlooks the town, consist partly of a spacious
reservoir formed by strong embankments, inclosing an
area of 295 acres, and containing 284,678,550 cubic feet
of water, conveyed by an aqueduct six miles in length
from numerous streams ; and there is also a compen-
sation reservoir of forty acres, containing 14,465, 89S
cubic feet. From the principal reservoir, which has an
elevation of 500 feet above the town, the water descends
by a gradual declivity, and in its course towards Gree-
nock forms, at. convenient intervals, many falls of greater
or less height, from which it is diverted to the several
factories that have been erected near it, supplying to
each 1200 cubic feet per minute for twelve hours
daily. The aggregate power of these different falls,
which vary in depth, according to the wants of each
factory, is estimated as equivalent to that of 1782 horses.
This important undertaking was successfully completed
in 1829, at an expense of £51,000, including the pur-
chase of the ground.
The public library, established in the year 1783, and
GREE
G R E E
for many years held in the Freemasons' Hall, in Hamil-
ton-street, has been removed into a building: in Union-
street, towards the erection of which Mr. James Watt.
contributed £3000, as a suitable place for the reception
of a marble statue, by Chantrey, in honour of his father,
the celebrated improver of the steam-engine, which
statue had been voted at a public meeting of the inha-
bitants of Greenock, the native place of Watt. The
building, which is in the early English style of architec-
ture, consists of a centre, containing the library, and
two wings, one of which forms a reading-room, and the
other a house for the librarian; the library consists of
above 10,000 volumes, and is supported by annual sub-
scriptions of thirteen shillings and £1. 1. A mechanics'
institution was established in 1S36; and a handsome
building has been erected for its use at an expense of
more than £1300, raised by subscription. The ground-
floor contains a library of 2000 volumes, a reading-
room, and an apartment for mechanical and philoso-
phical apparatus ; above which is a hall sixty-two feet
long, and thirty-nine feet wide, for the delivery of lec-
tures on chemistry, mechanics, and other subjects.
There is also a mechanics' library at Crawfurdsdyke,
containing nearly 1500 volumes ; and three circulating
libraries have collections varying from 500 to 1500
volumes. Two public newsrooms are likewise sup-
ported, in one of which, in Cathcart-square, is a por-
trait of Sir John Shaw, who is justty regarded as the
founder of the commercial prosperity of the town.
Assemblies are held in the Exchange buildings, in which
are elegant rooms ; and a theatre, erected by Stephen
Kemble, is opened occasionally. The Tontine hotel, in
the principal street, is a spacious building, erected at an
expense of £10,000, and contains some handsome apart-
ments, and every requisite accommodation for families.
Manufactures of almost every kind are carried on
here to a very considerable extent ; and there are nume-
rous large establishments for refining sugar, breweries,
distilleries, tanneries, foundries, and forges. The manu-
facture of woollen cloth and yarn is pursued in two
factories, in one of which 25,000 stones of wool are an-
nually consumed in the production of tartans, twilled
cloths, and yarn ; and the other, of recent establish-
ment, is still more extensive. A very large cotton fac-
tory has lately been opened, of which the machinery is
propelled by the Shaw's water : the building, which is of
stone, is 263 feet in length, sixty feet in breadth, and
three stories in height. In those parts where the pro-
cess carried on is most in danger of fire, the building is
fire-proof; and in case of need, the pipes by which it is
heated with steam can be rendered available as a fire-
engine. The water-wheel that drives the machinery is
seventy feet in diameter, and wholly of iron, weighing
about ISO tons. The number of people employed is gene-
rally 400, of whom the greater number are females. There
are eleven large establishments for the refining of sugar,
affording occupation to 350 persons; one of these is wholly
engaged in refining for exportation, and the aggregate
quantity is about 14,000 tons annually. Three breweries
employ about forty-five persons, and do business to the
amount of £30,000 per annum ; and there is a distillery
producing whisky annually to the amount of £50,000,
and paying duties to the excise of £21,000. Connected
with the distillery is a dairy of fifty cows. The manu-
facture of sail-cloth gives employment to nearly 300
523
persons, and consumes annually about 600 tons of raw
material : attached to the premises, is an extensive
rope-walk, in which large quantities of cordage are an-
nually made, averaging 700 tons. There are also three
other rope-walks, in the aggregate, affording employ-
ment to eighty persons. Four tanneries employ to-
gether about fifty hands, and do business to the amount
of £1S,000 annually; and two potteries, in which 200
people are constantly engaged, make on the average
100,000 dozens of white and printed earthenware. The
paper manufacture provides occupation to about forty
persons, of whom a considerable number are females,
and produces annually 300 tons of packing and coloured
papers. There are also some extensive cooperages, to-
gether employing about 500 men and boys. The straw-
plat manufacture of Greenock occupies generally about
seventy persons on the premises, and affords employ-
ment to 150 who work at their own dwellings in the
town, and to 1500 in the islands of Orkney. There are
three extensive iron-foundries and forges for all kinds
of castings, and for the manufacture of steam-engines
and boilers, and various sorts of machinery, together
affording employment to more than 1000 persons. In
these establishments, steam-engines of the aggregate
power of nearly 3000 horses are annually manufactured ;
and numerous English-built steamers have been sup-
plied with engines and machinery from the works. Two
manufactories for chain-cables and anchors, also, em-
ploy above 110 persons; and there is a work for the
making of bar-iron, in which a considerable number are
engaged. Four large mills for grinding grain, yield
upwards of 50,000 bolls annually : one of them was
also supplied with machinery for freeing rice imported
into this country from the husk, but this was found to
be attended without any of the expected benefit, and has
been discontinued.
The trade of the port, which, after it had recovered
from the depression it suffered during the American
war, had greatly increased, has recently sustained some
diminution from the deepening of the Clyde and the
introduction of steam towing-boats, by which ships that
previously landed their cargoes here are now enabled to
reach Glasgow. The exports are chiefly linen, woollen,
and silk manufactures, cotton-yarn, hardware, earthen-
ware, glass, refined sugar, iron and machinery, copper,
and lead. The imports are, cotton-wool, sugar, molasses,
coffee, cocoa, pepper, tobacco, corn, wine, oil, spirits,
timber, deals, mahogany, dye-woods, brimstone, and
numerous other goods. The quantity of cotton-yarn
exported in a recent year was valued at more than
£1,000,000; and the quantity of cotton-wool imported
was 11,597,653 lb. The number of vessels that en-
tered inwards during 1S43 was, 206 from British ports,
of the aggregate burthen of 60,269 tons ; and six from
foreign ports, of the aggregate burthen of 2583 tons.
The number that cleared outwards in 1S3S was, 235
British vessels, of 63,582 tons ; and nine foreign ves-
sels, of 3411 tons. In the coasting trade, during the
same year, 911 vessels entered inwards, of the burthen
of 99,430 tons ; and 1222 cleared outwards, of 128,017
tons' burthen. The amount of duty paid at the custom-
house in 1S43 was £347,S69 : the number of vessels
registered as belonging to the port is 45 1 , of 86,942 tons'
aggregate burthen ; and the number of seamen is 3365.
The harbour was commenced in 1707, by the inha-
3X2
GREE
GREE
bitants, to whom the lord of the manor, Sir John Shaw,
conveyed the ground on which it is formed, together
with his right, as superior of the barony, to levy anchor-
age dues ; and in order to raise funds for its completion,
they voluntarily imposed an assessment of Is. Ad. on
every sack of malt brewed into ale within the burgh.
The harbour thus formed being found, however, totally
inadequate to the rapid increase of the trade, an exten-
sion including the bay of Crawfurdsdyke was carried
into effect, at an expense of £20,000 ; and the subse-
quent erection of dry-docks and other works requisite
to render it complete, including warehouses, bonding-
yards for timber, and other accommodations, have in
the whole amounted to £119,000. The outer harbour,
which is accessible to the largest vessels, has sufficient
depth of water, and good anchorage ; but the roadstead
is contracted by a considerable sand-bank, which ex-
tends from Port-Glasgow towards Dumbarton. The
entrance to the inner harbour is 105 feet wide, and the
depth great enough to allow vessels of any burthen to
approach the quays. The Custom-house quay is 1035
feet in length, the East quay 531, and the West quay
425 feet, forming together a line of very nearly 2000
feet, replete with evei-y facility for the loading and land-
ing of cargoes, with spacious warehouses and stores.
Ship-building is carried on to a great extent, for which
purpose there are seven dockyards belonging to different
companies, affording employment to 1200 men, with
dry-docks, and three patent-slips for repairing vessels,
one of which is capable of receiving ships of 400 tons.
The number of vessels annually launched averages about
twenty, of the aggregate burthen of from 6000 to 7000
tons. Boat-building is also carried on, by companies
confined to that object, who employ about forty work-
men, and launch annually about 800 tons of all descrip-
tions. The improvement of the harbour has greatly
tended to increase the trade of the port as well as its
revenue, which amounted in a recent year to as large a
sum as £12,079.
The custom-house, which is situated in the central
portion of the quay, is a spacious and elegant building
in the Grecian style, with a stately portico in front, the
whole erected in ISIS, at an expense of £30,000. The
chamber of commerce and manufactures was incor-
porated by royal charter in 1S13, and is under the
management of twelve directors, of whom three annu-
ally go out of office by rotation. The Exchange build-
ings, erected in 1814, at a cost of £7000, afford every
accommodation for the meeting of merchants and ship-
owners, and for the transaction of commercial affairs ;
they contain also two spacious assembly-rooms, in
which, during the season, concerts and card and dancing
assemblies are held. The post-office has a good delivery ;
and in addition to the Greenock and the Clydesdale
Banks, there are branches of the Bank of Scotland, the
Royal Bank of Scotland, the Glasgow Union Banking
Company, and the Western Bank of Scotland. The
market, which is on Friday, is abundantly supplied
with grain and with provisions of all kinds ; and fairs
are held on the first Thursday in July and the fourth
Thursday in November. Facility of communication is
afforded by excellent roads, of which eight miles of turn-
pike-road pass through the parish, and by steamers,
which have nearly superseded travelling by coaches. The
Glasgow, Paisley, and Greenock Railway was commenced
524
in 1837, by a company empowered to raise a joint-stock
capital of £400,000 in shares, and £133,333 by loan.
The length is twenty-twff- miles and a half, of which
seven miles form part of the Glasgow and Ayr railway,
whence the Greenock line diverges, to the south of
Paisley, crossing the rivers Black Cart and Gryfe, and
reaching its summit level on the Bishopton ridge.
Thence it is continued by an embankment, running
nearly parallel with the river Clyde, to Port-Glasgow,
from which, taking a curvilinear direction, it terminates
at Greenock, where is a short branch leading to the
docks. There are sixty bridges on the whole line, in-
cluding the viaducts at Greenock and Port-Glasgow ;
and four ascending and four descending planes, the
former of nine miles, and the latter seven and a half,
the remainder of the course being level. The line passes
along two tunnels at Bishopton ridge, cut through hard
rock for above a mile in length, and thirty-seven feet in
depth ; the embankment near the Clyde is more than a
mile long, and twenty-eight feet in height, and there is
also one crossing Fulwood moss, four miles long, but
averaging only ten feet in height. The railway was
completed in June, 1840, at an expense of £498,142,
including one-half the cost of the portion between Glas-
gow and Paisley, of which the other half was defrayed
by the Glasgow and Ayr Railway Company. The pre-
sent capital is £866,666.
The town was erected into a burgh of barony by
charter of Charles I., granted to Sir John Shaw, its
proprietor, in 1635, and confirmed by Charles II. in 1670.
In 1741, the then Sir John Shaw, by a charter which
was renewed in 1751, conferred upon his tenants in the
burgh, the privilege of electing two bailies, a treasurer,
and six councillors, with power to hold courts for the
admission of burgesses, the good government of the
town, and the trial and punishment of delinquents.
This charter continued in force till the passing of the
Municipal Reform act of the 3rd and 4th of William IV.
A provost, four bailies, treasurer, and council are now
elected agreeably with the provisions of that measure ;
and their jurisdiction extends over the whole of the muni-
cipal and parliamentary boundaries of the burgh. The
magistrates hold courts daily for the trial of criminal
causes not extending beyond petty thefts and misde-
meanours, all higher matters being referred to the sheriff
of the county, who holds a court here for those cases to
which the jurisdiction of the magistrates does not ex-
tend. The burgh, under the provisions of the general
Reform act of the 2nd and 3rd of William IV., returns
one member to the imperial parliament : the right of
election is vested in the £10 householders, of whom
the number is 9S5. The town-hall was erected in 1765,
after a design by the father of the distinguished Watt ;
it is a neat structure containing the several court-rooms,
and other apartments for the transaction of the public
business of the magistrates. The town gaol and bride-
well, a handsome building in the castellated style, con-
tains thirty-five cells for criminals. The sheriff's court-
house, erected in 1834, by subscription, consists of a
spacious hall for the courts, with the necessary apart-
ments for the sheriff and his clerk, and rooms for jury-
men and witnesses, appropriately fitted up.
The parish originally formed part of that of Inner-
kip, from which it was separated by act of parliament,
in 1592; and it has since been subdivided into smaller
GHEE
GREE
parishes, including the lands of Easter Greenock and
Crawfurdsburn, and a considerable portion of the
parish of Houston, which were annexed to it by the
Court of Teinds in 1650. It extends along the Clyde
for nearly five miles, and is bounded on the south by the
parish of Houston ; on the south-east, by the parishes
of Port-Glasgow and Kilmalcolm ; and on the west, by
Innerkip. The surface is hilly, rising towards the south,
by elevated ridges, to a height of 600 feet. The coast
is flat and sandy, and is not distinguished by any pecu-
liarity of features, the hill of Binnans, the highest in the
ridge, forming the only landmark of importance, and
from which is obtained a beautiful view of the Frith.
The soil on the shore is chiefly clay, intermixed with
sea-shells and gravel; and in the higher grounds, a rich
loam, alternated with peat-moss. The estimated num-
ber of acres is 8000, of which nearly 3000 are arable,
1150 meadow and pasture, about fifty woodland and
plantations, and the remainder moor : there are some
quarries of sandstone, but of very inferior quality. The
scenery is beautifully diversified, and on the acclivities
of the hills are numerous scattered villas, overlooking
the Clyde. The mansion-house of Greenock is finely
situated on an eminence above the town ; the greater
portion of it is ancient, but several additions have been
made of more modern character. There is some fine
old timber on the demesne, and also on that of Craw-
furdsburn House, which is likewise an ancient building.
The rateable annual value of real property in Greenock
is £111,493.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Greenock and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr. The original parish, which, since the
New or Middle parish was disjoined from it in 1741,
has been designated the parish of West Kirk, is about
three miles and a half in length and two and three-
quarters in breadth. The minister's income is £718,
arising from a stipend of £287, an annuity from the
corporation of £25, and the rents of the glebe, amount-
ing to £406, with a manse ; patron, Sir Michael Robert
Shaw Stewart. The old church, a cruciform structure
built in 1590, being inconveniently situated, and greatly
dilapidated, has been superseded by a new church built
on a more commodious site ; the present structure,
which is of elegant design, contains 1400 sittings. There
are places of worship for members of the Free Church,
as well as for the United Secession, Baptists, the Relief,
Independents, Reformed Presbyterians, and Wesleyans ;
and an episcopal, and a Roman Catholic chapel. The
Middle Kirk parish, created by the Court of Teinds, is
about one-third of a mile in length, and a quarter of a
mile in breadth, and wholly within the town. The minis-
ter's stipend is £200, with £20 for communion ele-
ments, and a manse ; patrons, the Magistrates and Town
Council, the Kirk Session, and the Feuarsin the parish.
The church, erected in 1*47, at an expense of £2388,
by subscription, aided by a grant from the corporation,
is a handsome structure in the Grecian style, with a
portico of the Ionic order, and an elegant spire 145
feet in height, and contains 1497 sittings. A chapel,
also, has been recently erected by the Society for Pro-
pagating Christian Knowledge, for the use of the mariners
frequenting the port ; it contains 350 sittings, and divine
service is regularly performed on Sunday by a missionary,
who has a salary of £26 per annum. The parish of East
Kirk was divided from the original parish, also by the
Court of Teinds, in 1809 ; it is about three miles and a
half in length and two and a half in breadth. The
minister's stipend is £200, with £20 for communion
elements, and a manse ; patrons, the Magistrates and
Council, and a committee named by the Seat-proprietors.
The church, erected in 1774 as a chapel of ease, con-
tains 976 sittings. The late quoad sacra parish of North
Kirk was separated from the parish of West Kirk by
the General Assembly, in 1834, and was about half a
mile in length, and less than a quarter of a mile in
breadth ; patrons, the Congregation. The church, at
first a chapel of case, was built in 1823, at an expense of
£600, and contains 1165 sittings. South Kirk quoad
sacra parish comprised a small district within the town ;
patrons, the Proprietors of the church, which was built
as a Gaelic chapel of ease, in 1791, at a cost of £1300,
raised in shares, and is a neat structure •with 1300
sittings. The late quoad sacra parish of St. Andrew
was also separated from the old parish ; patrons, the
Trustees. The church was built by subscription, aided
by grant from the Church-extension fund, at a cost of
£2600 ; it is a handsome structure in the later English
style of architecture, and contains 945 sittings. The
late parish o( St. Thomas was separated in 1S39, from
the old parish and the Middle parish : the church was
built by private subscription, aided by a grant from the
extension fund. Cartsdyke (which see) was separated
from the East parish, in the year 1S39, but has. like
the four preceding districts, ceased to be a quoad sacra
parish.
The old parochial school has been superseded by the
establishment of two burgh schools, in one of which the
Latin, Greek, and French languages are taught ; and in
the other, arithmetic, the mathematics, geography, and
drawing. They are under the management of two mas-
ters, appointed by the corporation, and who have each
a salary of £30, with the fees and an allowance of £25
in lieu of house and schoolroom. The Highlanders
academy was built in 1837, partly by subscription, and
partly by grant from government, on a site given by
the late Sir Michael Shaw Stewart ; it is a handsome
building, containing two schools, and apartments for the
masters of an infant and juvenile school, with a large
inclosed play-ground. There are also two schools for
orphans, built by the corporation, one for the gratuitous
instruction of children in the elementary branches of
education, and the other for teaching girls to sew and
knit, and qualifying them for service ; they are both
supported by subscription, and partly by the proceeds
of the children's work. The Greenock hospital and
infirmary was established in 1809, when a building was
erected at an expense of £1815, on a site of land given
by Sir John Shaw Stewart ; it is maintained by sub-
scription. The number of patients averages about 585
annually received into the house, and 200 out-patients.
Two wings have been added to the building, which is
now adapted for the reception of 100 patients. The
institution is under the superintendence of four phy-
sicians, two surgeons, and a resident apothecary ; the
annual expenditure is about £1000. There are nume-
rous friendly and benefit societies ; and a savings' bank
has been for some time established, in which are de-
posits to the amount of £63,000. Gait, the novelist,
resided at Greenock, where he died in 1839. The town
G U T H
GUTH
gives the inferior title of Baron to the family of Cath-
cart, a dignity created in 1807, in the person of the
late Earl Cathcart, upon his return from Copenhagen,
where he had served as commander-in-chief of the mili-
tary force employed in the expedition to that place.
GRETNA, Dumfries. — See Graitney.
GRIMSAY, an island, in the parish of North Uist,
county of Inverness ; containing 269 inhabitants. This
is an isle of the Hebrides, lying between North Uist and
Benbecula, and is about two miles in length : a large
portion of it is covered with heath. A great quantity of
kelp is burned on its shores, the manufacture of which
is the chief employment of the population. Grimsay is
an island only at high water.
GROAY, an isle, in the parish of Harris, county of
Inverness. It is one of a group of islets in the Sound
of Harris, and is of very small extent, and uninhabited.
GRUINARD, or Greinord, an isle, in the parish
of Lochbroom, county of Ross and Cromarty. It is
situated at the entrance to a loch of the same name, on
the western coast of the county, about five miles south-
east of Udrigill Head.
GUILDIE, a village, in the parish of Monikie, county
of Forfar, 3| miles (W. N. W.) from Muirdrum ; con-
taining S3 inhabitants. It is in the eastern part of the
parish, and adjoining the village of Monikie : the popu-
lation is chiefly employed in the weaving of linen for
the manufacturers of the neighbouring towns.
GUILDIEMUIR, a village, in the above parish and
county ; containing 75 inhabitants. This village and
Guildie adjoin each other.
GUILDTOWN, a village, in the parish of St. Mar-
tin, county of Perth ; containing 178 inhabitants. It
lies in the western part of the parish, and is of modern
date, having been founded within the present century.
The houses are in general neat and comfortable, with a
piece of garden-ground attached to each. This village,
and Caroline-Place, also in the parish, are the property
of the Guildry Incorporation of Perth.
GULANE, anciently Golyn, a village, in the parish
of Dirleton, county of Haddington, 5f miles (W. by
S.) from North Berwick, containing 273 inhabitants.
This village, which formerly gave name to the parish, is
pleasantly situated ; and the ground in the immediate
vicinity is favourable to the training of race- horses, of
which two separate establishments have been erected.
There is a school attended by fifty children, of which
the master is provided with a house and garden, rent-
free, by Mrs. Ferguson, who also allows him a salary of
£5 per annum, in addition to the fees.
GUNISTER, an isle, in the parish of Northmavine,
county of Shetland. It is one of the smallest of the
Shetland group, and lies about a mile southward of the
main land of the parish : there is pasturage for cattle
and sheep.
GUNNA, an isle, in the parish of Tiree, district of
Mull, county of Argyll. This is a small isle of the
Hebrides, lying in the sound between Tiree and Coll,
and is about a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth.
It is remarkable for the great quantity of sea-weed upon
its shores.
GUTHRIE, a parish, in the county of Forfar,
Smiles (N. W.) from Arbroath; containing 530 inha-
bitants. This place confers its name upon the very
ancient and distinguished family of the Guthries, one of
526
whom, on the resignation of the guardianship of Scot-
land by Sir William Wallace, in 1299, and his retire-
ment into France, was sent by the Scottish nobles to
solicit the return of that hero, in order to assist his
countrymen to expel the English invaders. His descend-
ant, Sir David Guthrie, who was lord high treasurer of
Scotland in the reign of James III., purchased from the
monks of Arbroath, the church of Guthrie, which had
for many years been attached to that abbey, and founded
here a collegiate church for a provost and three pre-
bendaries. This foundation was confirmed by a bull
of Pope Sextus IV., in 1479 ; and to it was subsequently
annexed the vicarage of Kirkbuddo, or Carbuddo, now
forming a widely-detached portion of the parish of
Guthrie. Sir David Guthrie also erected a spacious and
strongly-fortified baronial castle here, which is still
entire ; and on his decease, the manor passed to his
son, Sir Alexander, who, with one of his sons and three
of his brothers-in-law, fell in the battle of Flodden Field.
It is now the property of his descendant, John Guthrie,
Esq. The parish, including Kirkbuddo, which is situ-
ated at a distance of nearly seven miles to the south-
west, and separated by several intervening parishes,
comprises an area of about 4000 acres, of which 3200
are arable, and the remainder woodland and plantations,
with a very considerable tract of unreclaimed moor.
The surface of the main portion is varied, sloping gra-
dually from the hill of Guthrie, which is in the north-
west, and has an elevation of about 500 feet, towards
the south and east ; while in the southern, or Kirk-
buddo, portion, the laud is nearly level, though consi-
derably raised above the sea. The parish is watered by
the small river Lunan, which flows through a narrow
valley, and forms its boundary. The soil in some parts
is a rich black loam, resting on a bed of retentive clay,
and in others of inferior quality, but generally suscepti-
ble of improvement by draining, which is gradually
growing into general practice. The system of agricul-
ture is advanced, and some portions of the moor have
been reclaimed ; the farm-buildings are usually commo-
dious, and considerable progress has been made in the
inclosure of the lands. The woodlands around Guthrie
Castle and Kirkbuddo House are under good manage-
ment ; and in different parts of the parish are some
thriving plantations, which add much to the beauty of
the scenery. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£2727.
The castle, the seat of Mr. Guthrie, was originally
built in 1468. The more ancient part consists of a
massive square tower, crowned with embattled tur-
rets, rising above the foliage of the richly-wooded
demesne by which it is surrounded, and conveying an
impressive idea of baronial grandeur ; the more modern
portions have been added at various times, and the
whole has been recently improved by the present pro-
prietor. It is beatifully situated on the banks of the
river Lunan, which has its source in a lake in the vici-
nity. Kirkbuddo House, the seat of George Ogilvy,
Esq., is a handsome modern mansion surrounded with
plantations. There is no village properly so called ; the
population are principally agricultural, with the excep-
tion of a few who are employed in weaving for the
manufacturers in the neighbourhood. In Kirktown, a
hamlet consisting only of a small number of scattered
houses, are some individuals engaged in the various
H A DD
H ADD
handicraft trades requisite for the supply of the inhabit-
ants of the parish. Facility of communication is afforded
by the Arbroath and Forfar turnpike-road, and the
Arbroath and Forfar railway, which pass near the
church. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the super-
intendence of the presbytery of Arbroath and synod of
Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend is £15S, of
which nearly one-half is paid from the exchequer, with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £9 per annum ; patron,
John Guthrie, Esq. The church, which is situated on
an acclivity rising from the valley of the Lunan, is a
substantial neat building erected in 1826, and contains
306 sittings. Diviue service is occasionally also per-
formed by the minister in a schoolroom at Kirkbuddo.
The parochial schoolmaster is superannuated, and the
school taught by an assistant ; the salary is £27, with
the fees, a house, and a garden. A school at Kirk-
buddo is supported by subscription j and there is a paro-
chial library, consisting chiefly of works on religious
subjects. Of the collegiate church founded by Sir David
Guthrie the only remains are a small aisle, now the burial-
place of the family ; and of the chapel of Kirkbuddo
scarcely any vestiges can be traced. In the southern
portion of the parish are some remains of a Roman
camp, still in a very entire state, inclosing an area of
about 760 yards in length and 360 yards wide : in the
south-east angle, supposed to have been the site of the
praetorium, is an eminence commanding a view of the
whole of the interior. John Guthrie, of this place, was
consecrated Bishop of Moray, over which see he con-
tinued to preside till 1638.
H
HADDINGTON, a burgh,
market-town, and parish, in
the county of Haddington,
of which it is the capital, 1 6
miles (E.) from Edinburgh,
and 373 (N.) from London ;
containing 5452 inhabitants,
of whom I87S are in the
town. This place, of which
the name is of very uncer-
tain derivation, is of unques-
tionable antiquity, though,
from the repeated destruc-
tion of its ancient records, comparatively little of its
remote history has been preserved. It appears to have
been a royal residence at an early period, and in various
documents is mentioned as having been a demesne town
of the kings in the beginning of the twelfth century.
Ada, Countess of Northumberland, and mother of Mal-
colm IV., in 117S founded here a convent for sisters of
the Cistercian order, which she richly endowed, and
dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; and Alexander II., King
of Scotland, was born at this place in 1198. The town,
which was wholly built of wood, was, in 1224, totally
consumed by fire, supposed to have been the work of an
incendiary, as, in the same night, the several towns of
Stirling, Roxburgh, Lanark, Perth, Forfar, Montrose,
and Aberdeen, experienced a similar calamity. It
was repeatedly burnt and laid waste by the English,
527
Burgh Seal.
during the frequent wars between the two countries,
but always speedily recovered from its desolation. The
abbey of St. Mary continued to flourish till the Disso-
lution ; and in 1548, the Scottish parliament assembled
within its walls, to deliberate upon the marriage of Mary,
afterwards Queen of Scots, with the Dauphin of France,
and to give their assent to her education at the French
court. In 159S, the greater part of the town was
destroyed by an accidental fire originating in the care-
lessness of a servant. It suffered considerable damage,
also, from inundations of the river Tvne, in the years
135S, 1421, and 1775.
The town is pleasantly situated on the Tyne, which
separates it on the east from the suburb of N ungate,
with which communication is afforded by a good stone
bridge of four arches ; and over the same river are
three other bridges within the limits of the parish. It
consists principally of two parallel streets of unequal
length, of which the longer, forming the High-street,
and being a continuation of the road from Edinburgh,
is spacious and well built, comprising handsome houses,
and is intersected at right angles by a street of consi-
derable extent. It is well paved, and lighted with gas
from works erected in 1835 ; and the inhabitants are
amply supplied with water. The appearance of the place
has been greatly improved by the erection of several
elegant buildings ; and for the accommodation of the
town, a new and commodious market has been formed.
The approaches from the east and west are pleasant, and
ornamented with agreeable villas having fine gardens,
and with extensive nursery-grounds; and the general
aspect of the town, which is seated at the foot of the
Garleton hills, is strikingly picturesque. A subscription
library has been established, which contains more than
1000 volumes ; a parochial library, also, is supported
with funds left for that purpose by the late Andrew
Begbie, Esq. There is a valuable library, bequeathed to
the town by the Rev. John Gray, of Aberlady, who also
gave fifty merks per annum for the purchase of addi-
tional volumes ; and in Haddington is also a library for
the use of the presbytery. A mechanics' institution
was founded in 1S23, and is supported by subscription,
for the delivery of lectures on chemistry, the various
branches of mechanics, and other subjects ; attached to
it are a good library, a museum, and the requisite appa-
ratus. The Agricultural and the Horticultural Societies of
East Lothian hold their meetings in the town ; and there
is a branch of the Bank of Scotland, and also of the
British Linen Company. A considerable trade is carried
on in wool, and in the preparation of bones for manure;
the only manufactories are an iron forge and an esta-
blishment for carriage-building. The tanning and cur-
rying trades are pursued to a good extent ; and there
are two breweries and two distilleries, on an extensive
scale. The market is on Friday, chiefly for grain of
various kinds ; it is well attended, and is one of the
greatest marts in the country for wheat. The market-
place for butchers' meat is a neat and commodious
structure, recently formed at an expense of more than
£2000, defrayc d from the public funds of the town.
Though Haddington has been a royal burgh from a
very remote period, the earliest charter extant was
granted by James VI., and is dated at Newmarket, the
30th of January, 1624. It confirmed all rights and pri-
vileges conferred by the charters which, in the repeated
H ADD
H ADD
conflagrations of the town, had been destroyed, and
vested the government in a provost, bailies, and council
of merchants and tradesmen, by whom the other officers
were chosen. The corporation at present consists of
a provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and
nineteen councillors, appointed under the authority, and
subject to the provisions, of the Municipal act of Wil-
liam IV. ; a baron-bailie is appointed for the suburb of
Nungate, and also for the lands in Gladsmuir belonging
to the corporation. The provost and bailies are ex
officio justices of the peace within the burgh and liber-
ties, and they have also, by their charter, the jurisdic-
tion of sheriffs within the royalty ; but they do not
exercise this function, and the sheriff of East Lothian
has concurrent jurisdiction with the magistrates of the
burgh, who are assisted by a town-clerk and other offi-
cers. The magistrates hold a court weekly for the
adjudication of civil cases, aided by the advice of the
town-clerk ; and also for the trial of petty misdemea-
nours, and for the maintenance of the police. There are
nine incorporations, which have the exclusive right of
exercising trade within the burgh, viz., the hammermen,
wrights and masons, weavers, fleshers, shoemakers,
bakers, tailors, and skinners ; each of these fraternities
sends two members to a council consisting of a con-
vener, nine deacon-conveners, and the members of the
incorporations, for the regulation of the various trades.
The burgh joins with those of Jedburgh, Dunbar, Lau-
der, and North Berwick, in the return of a member to
serve in parliament ; the right of election is vested in
the resident freemen and £10 householders. Hadding-
ton being the county town, the courts for the shire ai-e
held in it at the appointed periods ; and recently, some
elegant county buildings have been erected at the west
end of the town, in the old English style, at a cost of
£5500, from a design by Mr. Burn. The foundation
stone was laid, with masonic honours, in May, 1833, by
Sir John Gordon Sinclair, Bart. The edifice contains
the sheriff and justice-of-peace court-rooms, and other
offices connected with the county; the front is of
polished stone, and other parts of the building are of
also a superior material. It occupies the site of some
old ruins that consisted of a vault and part of an arched
passage, the pillars of the Saxon order ; but all traces
of the history of these remains, thought to have been
the most ancient in Haddington, are now lost. The
town-house, for the transaction of the business of the
burgh, has been improved at an expense of £2000, paid
out of the corporation funds ; it is a neat building,
including an assembly-room, with a handsome spire.
The prison contains the requisite apartments for the
classification of prisoners.
The parish is about six miles and a half in length
and six in breadth, and comprises 11,169 acres, of which
9312 are arable, 1250 woodland and plantations, and the
remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. The surface
is pleasingly undulated, and the scenery enriched with
woods of ancient growth and with flourishing planta-
tions ; the soil is generally fertile, and well adapted for
all kinds of grain. The rotation system of husbandry
is practised ; considerable improvement has been made
in draining and inclosing the lands, and the recent
introduction of bone-dust aud rape for manure has much
contributed to the fertility of the soil : the crops are,
wheat, barley, oats, beans, peas, potatoes, and turnips.
52S
The farm-buildings are substantial and commodious ;
and every improvement in agricultural implements has
been carefully adopted. The woods consist chiefly of
oak, hazel, and birch ; and the plantations of Scotch fir,
larch, and spruce. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £33,648. Amisfield, a seat of the Earl of
Wemyss, is a stately mansion on the south bank of the
river Tyne, surrounded by a well-planted demesne and
extensive park, which, during the annual sports called
the Tyneside games, celebrated there under the patron-
age of the neighbouring nobility and gentry, are much
resorted to. Stevenson, a seat of Sir John Gordon Sin-
clair, is beautifully situated to the east of Amisfield,
also in a richly-planted demense. Lennoxlove, anciently
Lethington, a seat of Lord Blantyre, is a handsome
mansion, part of which, of great antiquity, and built by
the Gifford family, consists of a square tower of massive
strength : the park is of considerable extent, aud con-
tains some fine old timber ; it was first inclosed with
walls by the Duke of Lauderdale, who was born here.
Monkrigg is an elegant modern mansion, finely situated,
and encompassed by some highly-enriched scenery ; and
Coalston, a little to the south, embraces an interesting
view of the grounds of Lennoxlove, and of the surround-
ing country. The other seats in the parish are, Clerk-
ington, Letham, Alderston, and Huntington.
Haddington is in the presbytery of Haddington and
synod of Lothian and Tvveeddale, and in the patronage
of the Earl of Hopetoun. There are two ministers, the
church being collegiate ; the stipend of the first minister
is £343, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £24 per
annum, and the stipend of the second minister is £366,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £25 per annum.
The church, supposed to have been built in the 14th
century, is a venerable and elegant cruciform structure
in the decorated English style, with a lofty square em-
battled tower; the choir and transepts are in a dilapi-
dated condition, but the nave has been commodiously
arranged for a congregation of 1240 persons. It con-
tains, in the aisle belonging to the Lauderdale family, a
splendid monument of varied marbles to Lord Chan-
cellor Maitland and his lady, with recumbent figures in
white marble. This fine church, which is 210 feet in
length, was part of a magnificent monastery of Fran-
ciscans, where Lord Seton, one of its greatest bene-
factors, was buried in 1441 ; the buildings were partly
destroyed by Edward I. A handsome chapel of ease
was erected in 1838, to which a district was till -lately
assigned, containing a population of 1878. There are
also an episcopal chapel, and places of worship for
members of the Free Church, the Old Light Seceders,
members of the United Secession, Independents, and
Wesleyans. The grammar school is endowed by the
corporation, who appoint two masters, and pay their
salaries ; it is open to all the sons of freemen. The
parochial school, affording a useful education, is sup-
ported by the heritors ; the master has a salary of £34,
with £50 fees, and a house and garden. The parish
poor have the interest of £300, the aggregate amount
of several bequests. The late David Gourlay, Esq., be-
queathed a field of four acres, with £450 in money, and
£840 in the funds, in trust to the ministers of Had-
dington, for the relief of the industrious poor not on
the parish list. A dispensary for administering medi-
cines to the sick poor is supported by subscription ; and
H A D D
HA D D
a savings' bank has been established, in which the
amount of deposits is above £1000. In the suburb of
Nungate are the remains of St. Martin's chapel, for-
merly belonging to the abbey of Haddington. John
Knox, the reformer, was born in this parish, at Gifford-
gait, adjoining the town, in 1505, and received the
rudiments of his education in the grammar school. The
distinguished family of Maitland resided for many years
at Lethington, which they obtained by purchase. Sir
Richard Maitland, who died in 15S6, was lord privy
seal, and author of some poems of merit ; his eldest son,
William, filled the office of secretary of state in the
reign of Mary, Queen of Scots ; and his next son, who
was created Lord Maitland, of Thirlstane, in 1590, was
lord high chancellor of Scotland till his death in 1595.
Haddington confers the title of Earl on the family of
Hamilton.
HADDINGTONSHIRE, a maritime county, in the
south-east of Scotland, bounded on the north and east
by the Frith of Forth, on the south by the county of
Berwick, and on the west by Edinburghshire. It. lies
between 55° 46' 10" and 56° 4' (N. Lat.) and 2° 8' and
2° 49' (W. Long.), and is about twenty-five miles in
length and sixteen in extreme breadth, comprising an
area of 224 square miles, or 144,510 acres; S752 houses,
of which SO 10 are inhabited; and containing a popula-
tion of 35, SS6, of whom 17,279 are males, and 1S,607
females. This count)', which is likewise called East
Lothian, as being the eastern part of the extensive dis-
trict of Lothian, including also the shires of Linlithgow
and Edinburgh, was before the time of the Romans
inhabited by the Gadeni, and subsequently formed a
portion of the Saxon kingdom of Northumbria till the
year 1020, when it was ceded to Malcolm II., and an-
nexed to Scotland. From that period, for nearly two
centuries, it appears to have remained in almost undis-
turbed tranquillity, and to have made considerable pro-
gress in agriculture ; but during the wars to which the
disputed succession to the Scottish throne gave rise, it
suffered materially, and in 1296 became the scene of
the battle of Dunbar, in which Baliol was defeated. In
1650, it again suffered from the English, under Crom-
well, on the same field ; and in 1745, the battle of
Prestonpans occurred, between the forces of the Pre-
tender and the English under Sir John Cope, since
which time, however, it has enjoyed uninterrupted
peace.
The county is in the synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale, and comprises the presbyteries of Dunbar and
Haddington, with twenty-four parishes. In civil matters,
the district, for a very long period, was merely a con-
stabulary -subject to the jurisdiction of the sheriff of
Edinburgh ; but in the reign of James II. of England,
it was erected into an independent county. It contains
the three royal burghs of Haddington, the county town,
Dunbar, and North Berwick ; and the populous villages
of Prestonpans, Tranent, Aberlady, Belhaven, Ortniston,
Dirleton, Stenton, Tyninghame, Cockenzie, East Linton,
Gilford, and Salton, with numerous smaller villages.
Under the act of the 2nd and 3rd of William IV., the
county returns one member to the imperial parliament.
The surface is varied : towards the shores of the Frith
of Forth it is nearly level, but it rises by gentle undula-
tions towards the south, for some distance, into ridges
of moderate elevation, which extend from east to west,
Vol. I.— 529
and increase in height as they approach the southern
boundary, where they form part of the Lammermoor
hills. These hills, on the south-east subside for a con-
siderable extent into a level plain, and on the west into
the fruitful valley of the Tyne, between which and the
Frith are some hills of inferior height. The principal
heights on the ridges are the Gunlane and Garleton
hills ; and from the open plain rise two conical hills, at
a distance of seven miles from each other, of which one,
called North Berwick Law, has an elevation of 800, and
the other, called Traprain Law, of 700 feet above the
level of the sea. The chief rivers are the Tyne and the
Peffer. The Tyne rises in Edinburghshire, and, flowing
in an easterly direction, through the pleasant vale to
which it gives name, and turning numerous mills in its
course, falls into the Frith at Tyninghame. The Peffer,
a much smaller stream, has its source in the northern
part of the county, and, passing through a tract of level
ground, falls into the Frith in the parish of Whitekirk,
on the east, and into Aberlady bay, on the west. The
Salton and Gifford waters are tributary to the Tyne ;
while Beltonford burn, which has its source among the
Lammermoor hills, in the parish of Garvald, after a
course of seven or eight miles to the north-east, flows
into the Frith to the west of the harbour of Dunbar.
About two-thirds of the land are arable, and the re-
mainder meadow and pasture, with some extensive
woodlands and plantations. The soil, though various,
is generally fertile, and the system of agriculture in the
highest state of improvement ; the crops are, wheat,
oats, barley, peas, beans, potatoes, and turnips. Wheat
is the staple crop ; the turnips are of the choicest
quality, and the county has long been distinguished for
the excellence of its agricultural produce. The farms
vary from sixty to 250 acres, and are under very skilful
management ; the lands are well drained and inclosed,
and abundantly manured with lime ; the buildings and
offices, also, are substantial and commodious. On the
several farms are threshing-mills, of which many are
driven by steam. The Lammermoor hills afford good
pasturage for sheep, which are mostly of the Cheviot,
but partly of the black-faced, breed ; the cattle are partly
the short-horned, but chiefly of the Highland breed.
The substrata of the Lammermoor district are of the
transitional, and those of the lowlands of the secondary,
formation ; coal is found in the west, and limestone of
the finest quality is abundant. Ironstone-clay, and clay
of good quality for bricks, occur in various parts of the
county; and sandstone of compact texture for building,
and trapstone for the roads, are quarried to a great
extent. About 6000 acres are in woods and planta-
tions, which are in a very thriving state; and at Tyning-
hame are some remarkably fine hedges of holly, of which
one is twenty-five feet in height, and thirteen feet in
width. The first manufactory in Britain for the weaving
of holland was established in this county, and the first
mill erected in Scotland for the preparation of pot-barley
was at Salton. The county is now, however, almost
wholly agricultural, the manufactures carried on being
few and unimportant. Draining-tiles are made ; and
there are some paper and flax mills, some starch-works,
distilleries, and breweries. The making of salt was once
carried on to a great extent, at Prestonpans ; but it is now
very much diminished. The herring-fishery off the coast
employs about 300 boats during the months of August
3 Y
H A L B
H A L K
and September, accommodation being found in the har-
bour of Dunbar. Facility of communication is afforded
by good roads, constructed under various acts of parlia-
ment, and kept in repair by commissioners. The rate-
able annual value of the county is £258,743, of which
£221,714 are returned for lands, £31,558 for houses,
£490S for mines, and £563 for quarries. There are
numerous remains of antiquity, consisting of mounds,
encampments, and the ruins of ancient castles, abbeys,
and other religious houses, all which are noticed in the
articles on the several parishes in which they are situ-
ated.
HAGGS, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the parish
of Denny, county of Stirling, 2 miles (S. S. W.) from
Denny; containing 1905 inhabitants, of whom 431 are
in the village. This place occupies the southern por-
tion of the parish of Denny, from which it was sepa-
rated for ecclesiastical purposes by act of the General
Assembly, in 1840. The village, which is situated on the
road to Glasgow, consists of several houses of two stories,
roofed with slate, some detached and pleasing cottages,
and a neat row of small houses near the coal-works, at
the eastern extremity of which is a large building appro-
priated as a storehouse. The inhabitants are chiefly
employed in the collieries in this part of Denny, and
in the various manufactories in the neighbourhood.
Facility for the conveyance of the produce of the mines
is afforded by the Forth and Clyde canal, and by the
Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, on which is a station
at Castle- Carie, near the village. The district is not re-
markable in an agricultural point of view ; the surface
is destitute of timber, and the scenery consequently of
dreary aspect; the soil is generally thin and cold, and
the system of husbandry in a very imperfect state.
The church, which was opened in 1840, was erected
chiefly through the instrumentality and exertions of the
Rev. John Dempster, minister of Denny, and the co-
operation and assistance of William Forbes, Esq., of
Callendar, M.P. for the county; it is a handsome and
substantial structure, containing 700 sittings. The
minister, who is chosen by the male communicants, de-
rives his stipend from seat-rents and contributions of
the congregation, no permanent endowment having been
established. A school in the village is supported by
the General Assembly.
HAILES- QUARRY, a village, in the parish of
Colinton, county of Edinburgh, f of a mile (N. W.
by W.) from Colinton; containing 158 inhabitants. It
is situated in the south-east part of the parish, on the
road from Edinburgh to Currie ; and has its aoljunct
from a considerable stone-quarry, of which the material
is of a slaty quality, and divides easily into thin por-
tions, excellent for pavements, lobbies, and steps. The
quarry is wrought to a great depth, and is very produc-
tive ; and in one year, 1825, when building in Edin-
burgh was pushed to some extent, yielded its pro-
prietor, Sir Thomas Gibson Carmichael, Bart., a rent of
£9000. Hailes was anciently the name of the parish.
HALBEATH, a village, in the parish and district of
Dunfermline, county of Fife, 3 miles (N. E.) from
Dunfermline; containing 461 inhabitants. This village
is inhabited chiefly by persons employed in the exten-
sive colliery in the neighbourhood, of which the produce
is conveyed by a railway to the port of Inverkeithing,
where it is shipped.
530
HALFMORTON, a parish, in the county of Dum-
fries, 6 miles (N. W.) from Longtown ■ containing 737
inhabitants. This place derives its name from its
having formed part of the ancient parish of Morton, of
which, on its suppression in the early part of the 17th
century,, one-half was merged in the parish of Canobie,
and the other, named Halfmorton, though still re-
maining as a parish quoad civilia, was ecclesiastically
united to the parish of Wauchope. On the subsequent
erection of Wauchope and Staplegorton into the present
parish of Langholm, in 1703, the minister of that
parish officiated only every fourth Sabbath at Half-
morton, which, in 1S39, was consequently disjoined
from Langholm by a decree of the Court of Teinds, and
erected into an independent parish. Halfmorton is
situated in the south-eastern part of the county, and is
bounded on the east by the river Sark, which separates
it from Cumberland ; it comprises an area of about
5700 acres, of which 125 are woodland and plantations,
400 moss, and the remainder chiefly arable, with a due
proportion of meadow and pasture. The surface is
agreeably diversified, and the scenery embellished with
thriving plantations. The Sark is the principal river,
and a small stream called the Logan flows through the
parish ; in both these are found trout, but not in great
abundance.
The soil along the banks of the river is deep and
rich, and the arable grounds produce valuable crops :
there are considerable tracts of peat-moss. The system
of agriculture is improved, and the lands have been
drained and partly inclosed. The pastures are stocked
with sheep of the Cheviot breed, and with black-cattle;
a considerable number of horses are reared, mostly for
agricultural uses, and on some of the farms great num-
bers of swine are fed. The substrata are chiefly red
sandstone, clay, and gravel ; and limestone is found in
several places. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £3176. The only approximation to a village is the
small hamlet of Chapelknowe, in which the church is
situated : a few persons are employed in hand-loom
weaving for the manufacturers of Carlisle. There are a
subscription library, and also one belonging to the
church. Facility of communication is afforded by roads
kept in good order by statute labour. The ecclesias-
tical affairs are under the superintendence of the pres-
bytery of Langholm and synod of Dumfries. The
minister's stipend is about £200 ; patrons, the Crown,
and the Duke of Buccleuch, alternately. The church, a
plain structure built in 1744, and containing 212 sit-
tings, has been recently enlarged. There is a place of
worship in connexion with the Free Church. The paro-
chial school is well conducted ; the master has a salary
of £25. 13., with a house and garden, and the fees
average £30 annually. There are no remains of the
ancient church of Morton ; but the churchyard is still
used.
HALKIRK, a parish, in the county of Caithness,
7 miles (S. by E.) from Thurso ; containing 2963 in-
habitants, of whom 236 are in the village. This place,
of which the name is of very uncertain origin, includes
the ancient parishes of Halkirk and Skinnet, supposed
to have been united soon after the Reformation. It is
evidently of very remote antiquity, and was one of the
seats of the Harolds and Sinclairs, earls of Caithness,
of whose baronial castle there are still considerable re-
HALK
II ALV
mains on the north bank of the river Thurso. On the
opposite bank of that river, also, was one of the resi-
dences of the bishops of Caithness and Sutherland, of
which, however, not the slightest vestige can now be
traced. The only event of historical importance con-
nected with the place, is the assassination of one of the
bishops by some ruffians said to have been employed for
that purpose by the Earl of Caithness, in revenge for
an additional assessment imposed by the bishop on his
lands. The perpetrators of this inhuman murder were
afterwards discovered, through the strenuous exertions
of King Alexander II., by whose special order they were
sentenced to exemplary punishment.
The parish, which is situated nearly in the centre of
the county, is about twenty-four miles in length and
from three to twelve in breadth, comprising an area of
7-1,000 acres, of which 6000 are arable, nearly an equal
number meadow and pasture, and the remainder moor-
land, water, and waste. The surface is generally level ;
the only hill of any considerable elevation is that of
Spittal, about three miles to the south-east of the
church, and partly in the parish of Watten. There
are not less than twenty lake's, of which the most ex-
tensive are, Loch Calder in the north, and Loch More
in the south ; the former is three miles and a half in
length and nearly a mile in breadth, and the latter of
about equal extent. The rivers are, the Thurso, which,
issuing from Loch More, flows through this parish and
that of Thurso, and falls into the sea at Thurso bay;
and the Forss, which partly bounds this parish on the
north-west, and joins the sea at Forss, in the parish of
Thurso. Salmon and trout are found in both these
rivers ; and trout of various kinds are taken in the
larger, and also in the smaller lakes, and in the various
streams that issue from them into the river Thurso.
The soil is various, in many parts a clayey loam,
and, though generally wet and cold, resting on a clayey
subsoil, has been greatly improved by the use of lime
and marl, which are found in various places. The chief
crops are, oats, barley, and bear ; the system of hus-
bandry has been gradually advancing, and some consi-
derable tracts of moor and moss have been drained, and
brought into cultivation ; the farm-houses and offices
are in tolerable condition, and the lands have been
partly inclosed. The pastures are luxuriantly rich ; and
considerable numbers of black-cattle and sheep are
reared, the former of the Highland breed, and are sent
to Thurso and Wick, whence many are forwarded by
steam to the English markets. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £6052. The moors abound with
game, consisting chiefly of grouse, hares, snipes, and
partridges ; and certain portions are leased out by the
proprietors, producing a rental of £500 per annum.
There are but very scanty remains of ancient wood ;
and few plantations have been made, except around the
houses of some of the proprietors ; and these are not
in a very thriving state, the soil and climate being un-
favourable to their growth. The principal substrata are
limestone and freestone ; and coal and lead-ore have
also been found, the latter of which was wrought by the
late Sir John Sinclair, of Ulbster, Bart. There were
once several quarries of limestone in operation, both for
building purposes and for manure ; and quarries of flag-
stone for paving are wrought at Spittal, the produce
being annually sent to Leith and Aberdeen, for exporta-
531
tion. Several handsome and substantial houses have
been erected in various parts, inhabited by some of the
principal farmers, but no seat requiring particular
description. The village is neatly built ; it contains
one good inn, and has a friendly society with funds
amounting to £300. A cattle-market, called St. Mag-
nus', is held in the village on the third Tuesday in
December ; and another, called Georgemass, takes
place on the last Tuesday in April and in July, on the
hill of Ruggy, partly in the parish. Communication is
maintained with Thurso by several good roads, recently
formed, and by two bridges over the river Thurso, one
near the village, and the other at Dale, which are both
substantial structures ; and by a bridge of wood at
Dirlot. The turnpike- road to Thurso passes for nearly
a mile through a part of the parish ; and letters are
brought from that town regularly every day in the
week.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Caithness and synod of
Sutherland and Caithness. The minister's stipend is
£205. 19., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £8 per
annum ; patron, Sir James Colquhoun, Bart. The
church, erected in 17-13, and enlai-ged in 1833, is situ-
ated in the village, and is a neat plain structure con-
taining 858 sittings. There is a missionary chapel at
Achrenny, with 403 sittings ; the minister has a stipend
of £50 from the Royal Bounty, with a house and garden,
and pasture for a horse. In addition to this, he receives
£45 from the inhabitants of Halsary, in the parish of
Watten, and Halladale, in the parish of Reay, where,
also, there are missionary stations at which he officiates.
The parochial school is well conducted ; the master has
a salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees
average about £5 per annum. There are several Pictish
houses, and remains of ancient chapels in the parish,
among which latter are those of St. Thomas at Skinnet,
and St. Magnus at Spittal, whereof the walls are still
tolerably entire. Some remains of a third also existed,
at Banniskirk ; but they have totally disappeared under
the operation of the plough. Of the remains of the
castle of Braal, the seat of the earls of Caithness, the
more ancient portion is a tower, of which the walls, of
great thickness, are still remaining to the height of
thirty- five feet; within the eastern wall is a staircase,
leading to the summit. The more modern portion,
which, from the difficulty of carrying the materials, was
never completed, consists only of the ground-floor, 100
feet in length and fifty feet wide, divided into six vaults.
There are also remains of castles at Dirlot and Loch
More : the former, said to have been erected by the
Sutherlands, is situated on the summit of a detached
rock rising abruptly to the height of fifty feet, from the
river Thurso, by which it was at one time surrounded.
The latter was built by Ronald Cheyne, in the 14th
century, in a district selected as abounding with
deer. There are several springs supposed to possess
mineral properties ; but they have not been properly
analysed.
HAL VERA, or Havera, an isle, forming part of
the parishes of Bressay, Burra, and Quarff, in the
county of Shetland ; and containing 37 inhabitants.
It lies about two miles southward of Burra island, and
half a mile, in the same direction, from West Burra,
and at the entrance to Cliff sound. The isle is of small
3 Y2
HAMI
H A M I
Burgh Seal.
extent, and has the appearance of a high rock, the
access to it being by a romantic kind of creek ; and
the houses seem built in [dangerous situations on the
brink of a precipice. There is a smaller isle, called
Little Halvera.
HAMILTON, a parish,
burgh, and market-town, in
the Middle ward of the county
of Lanark, including the vil-
lage of Fernigair, and con-
taining 10,862 inhabitants, of
whom S876 are in the town,
11 miles (S. E. by E.) from
Glasgow, and 38 (W. S. W.)
from Edinburgh. This place
appears to have been distin-
guished at a very early period,
as a royal residence, under
the appellation of Cadzow, of which name, however, the
origin and signification are now unknown. In 1153,
and also in 12S9, the monarchs held their courts here;
and it continued to be a royal manor till the battle of
Bannockburn, immediately after which it was conferred
by Bruce upon Walter Fitzgilbert de Hamilton, ancestor
of the present ducal family of that name, in whose pos-
session it has ever since remained. In 1445, James II.,
by charter dated the 3rd of July, created James, then
proprietor of the estate, first Lord Hamilton ; and
erected the manor of Cadzow into a barony, which took
its name from the family of its possessor. In 1474,
Lord Hamilton married the Princess Mary, eldest
daughter of the king, and widow of the Earl of Arran,
by virtue of which alliance his descendants were, after
the death of James V., recognised by parliament as
heirs of the crown in the event of the death of Mary,
Queen of Scots. On their accompanying that princess
into France, they were created dukes of Chatelherault,
in that kingdom • and they were subsequently made
dukes of Hamilton by Charles I., and dukes of Brandon,
in England, by Queen Anne. Few events of historical
importance have occurred to distinguish the town. Of
these the principal are conflicts which took place in
1650, between the army of the Covenanters, consisting
of 1500 horse under the command of Colonel Kerr, and
the forces of General Lambert sent against them by
Cromwell, when, after an obstinate resistance, in which
Kerr and 100 of his men were killed, the Covenanters
were dispersed. In 1679, the army of the Covenanters,
again assembling, to the number of 4000 men, encamped
at Bothwell moor, between the river Clyde and the
town, from which position they were dislodged by the
royal army under the Duke of Monmouth, by whom
they were defeated with the loss of 1200 of their num-
ber who were taken prisoners. In 1774, an accidental
fire broke out in the town, which, raging for several
days with unabated violence, reduced a considerable
portion of it to ashes.
The town is situated on a tract of elevated ground,
about a mile from the confluence of the Avon with the
Clyde, and considerably to the westward of the ancient
town, of which the only remains now existing are a small
portion of an out-building belonging to the old hall in the
pleasure-grounds of Hamilton Palace. It is intersected
by the Cadzow burn, over which is a noble bridge of three
arches, and by the roads leading to Glasgow and Edin-
532
burgh, on the line of the latter of which an elegant bridge
of five arches was erected, over the Clyde, by act of par-
liament, in 1780 : across the same river is also Both-
well bridge, a very ancient structure on the road to
Glasgow, of which the date is unknown, and which was
recently widened and repaired. A handsome bridge
has lately been built over the Avon, on the London
road ; and across the same river is an ancient bridge of
three arches, built, by the monks of Lesmahago. The
houses are in general well built, and some additional
houses have been very recently' erected. The streets
are lighted with gas by a company of proprietary share-
holders, who have erected works for the purpose upon
a very elegant plan ; and the inhabitants are amply
supplied with water conveyed in pipes, from a distance
of three miles, by a company whose formation was but
recently completed. The public library, supported by
subscription, was first opened in 1S08, chiefly under the
auspices of Dr. John Hume, and at present contains
more than 3000 volumes ; and a mechanics' institution
has been established within the last few years, which is
maintained with success. The cavalry barracks occupy a
large area surrounded with a wall, and comprise a riding-
room, and an hospital, with stabling and the other
usual accommodations. There are three masonic lodges,
two gardeners' societies, and a friendly society. Con-
siderable improvements have taken place in the town
by the formation of new streets. The post is frequent ;
and great facility of intercourse is maintained with
Glasgow and the adjacent towns by numerous coaches
and other modes of conveyance. The market is on Fri-
day ; and several fairs are held in the year, which were
formerly great marts for lint and wool, but at present
are little more than large markets. The market for
butchers' meat and the shambles are situated nearly in
the middle of the town, on the bank of the Cadzow
burn ; and the buildings are neat, and well adapted to
the purpose, A very considerable trade was formerly
carried on here in malt, under the direction of the
Society of Maltsters, which society is still kept up,
though the trade has altogether declined : the linen
trade, also, which formed at one time almost the staple
business of the place, has been wholly discontinued.
The cotton trade, on its first introduction, flourished
here for some years, and the town became the principal
seat of the district for the weaving of imitation or Scotch
cambrics ; it has been on the decline since 1792, but is
still considerable, and affords employment to many of
the inhabitants. There are at present about 1300 looms
in the town, and fifty in the rural districts of the parish;
and many females are engaged in winding and in tam-
bouring. The old lace manufacture, introduced by one
of the duchesses of Hamilton, has for many years been
decaying, and is now almost extinct ; but a new manu-
facture of lace, introduced some years since by a firm
from Nottingham, is at present the most flourishing
trade of Hamilton, and gives occupation to nearly 3000
women in the town and neighbourhood. The principal
productions are, tamboured bobbinets, and black silk
veils of various patterns, with other articles, for which
there is a very large and increasing demand, for the
markets of England, America, and the British colonies.
Many very respectable houses are engaged in this
trade, which has, since its introduction by Mr. Galloch,
been very much improved by others. Great quan-
H A M I
H A U I
tities of check shirts are also made in the town, and
exported to Australia ; the weaving of stockings is car-
ried on to a limited extent ; and the tanning of leather
is conducted, though on a very small scale.
The present town, though the greater part of it is
comparatively modern, is of considerable antiquity, and,
in the reign of James II., was erected into a burgh by
charter of that monarch, granted in 1456. In 1548, it
was created a royal burgh by Queen Mary ; and it con-
tinued to enjoy its privileges as such till 16/0, when the
inhabitants forfeited their rights by disuse, and accepted
a new charter from Anne, Duchess of Hamilton, by
which it became merely the chief burgh of the duchy of
Hamilton. At the present time, the government is vested
in a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and a council of
seven, assisted by a town-clerk and other officers. The
provost and bailies are elected annually from the council,
four of whom go out of office by rotation, every year,
when four new ones are chosen by the inhabitants ; the
treasurer and the town-clerk are appointed by the cor-
poration. The provost and bailies are justices of the
peace, by virtue of their office, and are empowered by
the charter to hold courts for the determination of all
claims in actions of debt, and for the trial of all criminal
cases not extending to life or limb, within the burgh.
The magistrates used formerly to hold occasionally a
court for the recovery of debts under forty shillings,
which court, however, has, on account of a doubt en-
tertained of its legality, fallen into disuse : they still
hold weekly courts for the recovery of debts and for
civil actions to an unlimited amount, in which the town-
clerk acts as assessor ; and also courts of police for
the trial of misdemeanours and other offences not capi-
tal. The elective franchise was granted by act of the
2nd and 3rd of William IV. ; and the burgh has, from
that time, in conjunction with Lanark, Falkirk, Linlith-
gow, and Airdrie, returned one member to the imperial
parliament. The right of election is vested in the house-
holders occupying tenements of the yearly value of £10
and upwards, of whom there are nearly 300. The former
court-house and prison, erected at the cross in the reign
of Charles I., were lately taken down ; and the old
town-hall is now disused. A new town-hall with pub-
lic offices and a prison, of which the first stone was
laid in 1834, has been built in lieu, and consists of a
distinct range of building, two stories high, comprising,
on the ground-floor, three apartments for the sheriff's
clerk, with a record-room, and offices for the town-
clerk, &c, as well as a court-room thirty-seven feet long,
and thirty-two feet broad : in the upper story is a large
hall for county meetings, with other apartments. Be-
hind is the prison, three stories high, containing forty-
five cells, with a spacious day-room for debtors, and
day-rooms for criminals ; the lower part is appropriated
as a bridewell, and the upper part to debtors. Between
the public offices and the prison is the house of the
governor, with requisite apartments, and a bath for the
use of the prison ; the whole surrounded with a high
wall, inclosing an area of about two roods. The trades'
hall, in Church-street, erected in 1816, is a neat and
appropriate building, comprising, in the upper part, a
hall for the meetings of the trades, and, in the lower, a
well-arranged tavern. There are also a tax, excise, and
stamp office. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £3S,181.
533
The parish extends for nearly six miles in length,
and is almost of the same breadth ; it is bounded on
the north and north-east by the river Clyde, on the
south and south-west by the parish of Glassford, on the
east by the parishes of Dalziel, Cambusnethan, Dalserf,
and Stonehouse, and on the west by Blantyre. It com-
prises 14,240 acres of land, of which about S000 are
arable and of good quality, 2000 woodland, and 2040
unprofitable or waste. The surface is generally level,
occasionally varied with sloping ridges, but not rising
into hills of any considerable elevation. The most fer-
tile lands are the extensive vales on the southwestern
bank of the Clyde, where the soil is a deep rich loam :
and on the north-eastern side of that river are some hun-
dreds of acres which, though belonging to this parish,
seem to be more properly within that of Dalziel, which
nearly surrounds them. The soil in the middle of the
parish rests upon a yellow clay, and is less fertile than
that of the valleys near the Clyde; the higher parts con-
sist chiefly of gravel and sand, and are comparatively
unproductive. The substrata are principally sandstone
rock, appearing in great masses that are from under
fifty to more than 300 feet in thickness ; whinstone
also prevails in some parts, and coal, lime, and ironstone
are found. The several strata of coal vary from twenty
to twenty-four feet in average thickness. The lime-
stone is of various quality ; that obtained in the south-
west is excellent, and much used for building and also
for manure. The ironstone is found in seams about
eighteen inches thick, and also in masses varying from
very minute balls to others of several inches in diameter,
chiefly in the clay near the strata of coal. Among the
crops are, wheat, which is grown on all the lands near
the Clyde, and also on some few of the higher lands ;
and oats of various descriptions, of which the Polish,
Essex, and Friesland are predominant. Peas and beans
are chiefly raised on the lower grounds. Barley, for-
merly more largely cultivated, is now seldom sown,
except for preparing lands for artificial grasses ; but
potatoes are produced in great quantities, and of good
quality, and a little flax for domestic use. The system
of agriculture, though varying greatly in different parts,
is generally advanced ; there are some considerable
dairy-farms, and much attention is paid to the breeding
of cattle, in which many improvements have taken place
within the last few years. Great improvement has also
been made in draining and inclosing the lands ; the
fences are chiefly hedges, and are mostly well kept up.
The pastures, especially in the low lands bordering on
the Clyde, are fertile ; and attached to a few of the
farms, and even to some of the houses in the town, are
orchards which are cultivated with assiduous care, and
abound with fruit of excellent quality. There are con-
siderable tracts of woodland in the parish, of which the
principal are, Bar-Michael wood near Bothwell bridge,
Ross wood on the river Clyde, and Hamilton wood on
the Avon and Barncluith burn. Forest trees of every
kind thrive well, particularly on the lower lands. Oak
is very prevalent, and many of the older trees have
attained considerable size, several of them measuring
thirty-six feet in girth; larch and Scotch fir also thrive;
and the banks of the rivers, where they have any eleva-
tion, are crowned with luxuriant foliage. Silver and
spruce fir are grown with success ; and the cedar of
Lebanon has attained a tolerable size where it has been
H A M I
H A M I
planted. Freestone is found in several parts, of a good
quality for building; and at present about fifty men are
constantly employed in the various quarries.
The principal river is the Clyde, which rises in the
heights of Crawford, and enters the parish below the
falls at Lanark ; it expands abruptly in its course, which
is very rapid, into a breadth varying from eighty to 100
feet, and is subject after rains to frequent inundations,
by which the lands have at different times been much
injured. The Avon also intersects the parish, receiving
in its course six tributary streams ; and there are three
other streamlets or burns, which fall into the Clyde.
The Avon rises on the west, near the borders of the
county of Ayr, and, after a picturesque course of several
miles through the vale to which it gives name, enters
the parish at Millheugh bridge, a little below which it
flows through a defile bounded on each side by majestic
rocks of romantic aspect, rising to the height of 200 or
300 feet, and richly clothed, in some parts almost to
their summits, with stately and venerable oaks. Nearly
in the centre of this defile are the remains of Cadzow
Castle, seated on a rock ascending perpendicularly to
the height of 200 feet above the level of the river; and
on the opposite bank is the banquet-house of the Duke
of Hamilton, built after the model of Chatelherault,
from which it takes its name. Not far from the extre-
mity of the chasm, and about three miles from the en-
trance, are the gardens of Barncluith, the property of
Lord Ruthven, rising in terraces from the western bank
of the river, which, after forcing its way through this
rocky channel, flows along the fertile valleys of the
parish, and falls into the Clyde near Hamilton bridge.
Of the several tributary streams that intersect the parish
the principal are, Cadzow burn, which rises in Glass-
ford, and, after running through the town, falls into the
Clyde at a short distance below Hamilton bridge; and
Barncluith burn, which joins the Avon about half a mile
from the town. The latter burn flows through Hamil-
ton wood, forming in its way five or six falls, varying
from five to six feet in height, and adding greatly to the
beauty of the scenery. The Clyde and the Avon abound
with fish, of which salmon, trout, pike, perch, lampreys,
and silver-eels are the most common; and roach are
occasionally found. Fish are found also in the streams
tributary to those rivers.
Hamilton Palace, the seat of his grace the Duke
of Hamilton, situated on the borders of the town, about
half a mile to the west of the confluence of the Avon
and Clyde, was originally a square tower of very small
dimensions. The more ancient part of the present
mansion was built in 1590, and nearly rebuilt about the
year 1720 ; considerable additions have been made to the
building since 1822, and at present it is one of the most
splendid structures in the kingdom. The north front
is 264 feet in length, and three stories in height, with a
stately portico of duplicated Corinthian columns, each
thirty feet high, and three feet in diameter, formed of
one single block, and supporting a triangular pediment.
To the west is a wing 100 feet in length, appropriated
for offices and servants' apartments ; and in the rear of
the building is a corridor of recent addition, in which
are baths and various appendages for the use of the
family. The entrance hall is lofty and richly embel-
lished ; and all the state apartments, which are ex-
tremely spacious, are magnificently decorated, and richly
534
ornamented with sculpture. The dining-room is seventy
feet in length and thirty feet wide, and has numerous
embellishments, among which is a tripod of exquisite
beauty standing on a pedestal of African marble : the
other apartments, also, abound with costly vases, cabi-
nets, specimens of mosaic, gems, and other rare and
interesting curiosities. The gallery, which is 120 feet
long, twenty feet wide, and twenty feet high, contains
an extensive and very valuable collection of paintings
by the most eminent masters of the Italian and Flemish
schools, and many family portraits. At the upper end
is the throne used by his grace when ambassador at the
court of Petersburgh, and on one side of it is a bust of
Augustus, and on the other one of Tiberius, both of
oriental porphyry : at the opposite end of the gallery is
a beautiful door of black marble, surmounted by a
pediment supported on two pillars of green porphyry.
The library contains a large collection of well-assorted
volumes, and of prints, the latter alone being valued at
£10,000. The stables, built between the palace and the
town, are on a scale adapted to the style of the palace ;
and the grounds abound with stately timber, and with
every variety and beauty of scenery. The banqueting-
house of Chatelherault was erected in 1732, by the then
duke, after a model of the citadel of that name in France;
it is built of red freestone, and decorated with four square
towers, and, with its numerous pinnacles and other
ornaments, forms a conspicuous object on the eastern
side of the river Avon. It contains, among various
interesting works of taste, a small but choice collection
of paintings ; and the grounds, in which is an exten-
sive flower-garden, are tastefully embellished. Earnock
House, a seat in the parish, is beautifully situated in
its western part, on an elevated site surrounded with
flourishing plantations ; the house is of modern erec-
tion, well adapted for its purpose, and the gardens and
pleasure-grounds are agreeably laid out. Ross is a
spacious mansion, pleasantly situated in grounds com-
prehending much pleasing scenery : Nielsland is also a
handsome residence, with an extensive demesne ; and
there are some good houses at Fair Hill, Grovemount,
Edlewood, and Fairholme. Of Barncluith the principal
feature is the gardens previously noticed ; and many of
the ancient seats of different branches of the Hamilton
family have become farm-houses. The chief landed pro-
prietor is the Duke of Hamilton, who owns more than
one-half of the parish.
The parish formerly comprised the chapelry of Ma-
chan, now the parish of Dalserf ; and the church was
granted by David I., together with the lands belonging
to it, to the abbey of Glasgow, and was afterwards
appropriated to the deanery of that see. The ecclesi-
astical affairs are now under the superintendence of
the presbytery of Hamilton and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr. There are two ministers, of whom the first has
a stipend of £313. 13., whereof £2. 15. arise from a
bequest for communion elements; and £107. 10. are
allowed by the Duke of Hamilton in lieu of manse and
glebe : the second minister has a stipend of less amount,
with a manse, but no glebe. The old church, which was
made collegiate under the influence of the first Lord
Hamilton, in 1451, stood in the higher part of the
parish, and was endowed for a provost and eight pre-
bendaries, and contained a chapel dedicated to the Vir-
gin Mary, for which a chaplain was appointed. The
H A M I
H A It D
building, which was of hewn stone, consisted of a nave,
choir, and transepts, of elegant design, and continued
till 1732, when it fell into decay, since which time it has
been greatly dilapidated, nothing of it now remaining
but one of the transepts, still used as a burying-place
for the Hamilton family. The present parish church,
situated nearly in the centre of the town, is a handsome
structure of circular form, erected after a design by the
elder Adam, architect ; and is adapted to a congrega-
tion of S00. A second church in connexion with the
Establishment, and capable of containing 1021 persons,
has been lately erected; but this building is now in the
hands of members of the Free Church, who appoint
the minister. The Episcopalians in the neighbourhood
have just formed themselves into a congregation. The
Roman Catholics have purchased ground for the erec-
tion of a chapel ; and there are two congregations of
the Relief, one in Muir-street, and the other in Bran-
don-street ; also places of wrorship for Antiburghers,
New Light Burghers, Old Independents, and a taber-
nacle in connexion with the Congregational Union. The
grammar school is of ancient origin, and in 1588 was
endowed by Lord John Hamilton with £20 Scotch per
annum ; it aiFords a liberal education to about forty
children, and is under the patronage of the corporation.
The master's salary is £34, and the fees on the average
amount to £60 : the school-house is a venerable build-
ing, nearly in the centre of the town. The hospital
founded and supported by the Duke of Hamilton, for
twelve aged men, was originally built in the old town,
but was removed to the present after the erection of the
collegiate church ; it is an ancient building with a cam-
panile turret, situated near the cross, and was formerly
inhabited by the pensioners, but has for some years
been let out, and the receipts applied to their use. An
hospital was built and endowed in 1775, by William
Aikman, Esq., for four aged men, who have each a resi-
dence in the building, which is in Muir-street, with a
suit of clothes every second year, and £4 per annum.
Mr. John Rae bequeathed to the town council a sum of
money which, together with some bequests of other
benefactors, produces an annual interest of £9. 2. 4.,
which, according to the will of the testators, is distri-
buted among poor housekeepers. Mr. Robertson, of
this town, and sheriff-clerk of Lanark, in conjunction
with Mr. Lyon, left £4 per annum for nine aged men ;
and Miss Christian Allan, in 1785, left to the Kirk
Session £50, in trust for the benefit of the poor. Mr.
William Torbet bequeathed to the same trustees an
orchard that lets at £10 per annum; and they have
also a legacy of £50, the interest of which is divided
among five female housekeepers named by them ; an-
other legacy of £50, of which only £30 were paid, for
clothing the indigent poor; and a donation of £100, of
which the interest is applied to the instruction of twelve
children.
Among the anticiuities in the parish, the most con- .
spicuous are the remains of Cadzow Castle, previously
noticed as crowning the summit of a precipitous rock
rising from the river Avon, in Hamilton woods ; it has
been repaired at various times. The keep, surrounded
by a fosse, over which is a narrow bridge leading to the
entrance gateway, and a well within the walls, are still
in good preservation ; and several vaults, with part of
the walls of the chapel, may yet be distinctly traced.
535
Darngaber Castle, in the south-east of the parish, sup-
posed to have been founded by Thomas, son of Sir John
de Hamilton, lord of Cadzow, occupied an elevated site
at the extremity of a point of land near the confluence
of two rivulets : the only remains are, portions of the
foundations, which appear to have consisted of flat un-
hewn and uncemented stones ; and some vaults, that
seem to have been constructed at a much earlier period.
At Meikle Earnoch, two miles south of the town, is a
tumulus about twelve feet in diameter, and eight feet
high, which appears to have been originally of larger
dimensions. On opening it several urns were found,
containing human bones nearly reduced to ashes ; they
were all of baked earth, without inscription, but some
of them were decorated with mouldings. To the north
of Hamilton Palace is a mount supposed to have been
in remoter ages a seat for the administration of justice ;
it is about thirty feet in diameter at the base, and fif-
teen feet high, and near it is a stone cross four feet
high, without inscription. This is thought to have been
the market cross of the old town, called Netherton,
which, previously to the erection of the present town of
Hamilton, occupied this part. In the south of the
parish is a portion of a cromlech, consisting of one
stone of about six feet, which, having declined greatly
from its erect position, was recently replaced by the
tenant of a neighbouring farm.
HANDA, an island, in the parish of Eddrachillis,
county of Sutherland ; containing 65 inhabitants.
It is situated off the western coast of the county, and
separated from the main land of the parish by a narrow
sound; and is about a mile square. On the north, one
vast perpendicular rock, or majestic cliff, 600 feet in
height, presents its face to the sea, and is the habitation
of innumerable sea-fowl during the season of incuba-
tion ; on the south, the isle is much lower, and the
ascent, gentle and easy. It has some fertile spots, pro-
ducing corn and hay, but is principally appropriated to
sheep-walks. Fishing is the chief employment of the
population, who also obtain by fowling, and frequently
by daring exploits, great quantities of birds and eggs, as
well for disposal to their main land neighbours, as for
their own subsistence. This was once the residence of
Little John Mac Dhoil Mhich Huishdan, one of the
Macleods of Assynt, and the murderer of Judge Mori-
son, of Lewis, in the reign of James VI.
HANGIN SHAW, a village, in the parish of Cath-
cart, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 1 mile
(N. N. E.) from Cathcart; containing 143 inhabitants.
It is seated in the eastern part of the parish, and a
short distance east of the road from Cathcart to Glas-
gow : the Cart water flows south of the village.
HARDGATE, a village, in that part of the parish of
Old Kilpatrick which formed the quoad sacra parish
of Duntocher, county of Dumbarton, 2 miles (E.)
from Old Kilpatrick ; containing 467 inhabitants. This
is one of numerous thriving villages which have sprung
up in this great manufacturing district within the pre-
sent century. It arose in the erection of the mill here, in
1831, for spinning and weaving cotton, by ftlr. Dunn, a
large proprietor of land in this quarter, and the enter-
prising founder of several other mills and works in the
vicinity. The villages of Hardgate, Duntocher, Faifley,
and Milton, in which Mr. Dunn has considerable esta-
blishments, are all within less than a mile of each other,
HARE
H A S C
and border on the Frith of Clyde, which flows on the
south of the parish.
HARDGATE, a hamlet, in the parish of Urr, stew-
artry of Kirkcudbright, 5^ miles (N. E.) from Castle-
Douglas ; containing 46 inhabitants. It lies in the
centre of the parish, a short distance northward of the
church.
HARRAY. — See Birsay, county of Orkney.
HARRIS, a parish, comprising the southern divi-
sion of the island of --Lewis, in the county of Inver-
ness, 44 miles (N. W.) from Portree ; and containing,
with the islands designated Bernera, Ensay, Hermitray,
Killigray, Pabbay, Scalpay, Scarp, and Tarrinsay, 4429
inhabitants. The parish of Harris was till lately called
Kilbride; its present name is corrupted from the
Gaelic term na hardibh, signifying " the heights," this
district of the Hebrides being the highest and most
mountainous of any in the island of Lewis. It consists
chiefly of the southern part of that island, separated
from the northern portion by an isthmus about six miles
across, formed by the approach to each other of the two
great harbours, Loch Resort and Loch Seaforth. The
Atlantic Ocean bounds it on the west ; on the east is the
Minch, which separates it from the island of Skye; and
on the south is the channel generally called the Sound
of Harris, but sometimes Caolas Uist, or the Sound of
Uist, lying between Harris and the islands of Bernera
and North Uist. The parish is fifty miles in length,
varies in breadth from eight to twenty-four miles, and
comprises 94,000 Scotch acres, of which 85,000 are
moor and pasture, 800 subject to tillage by the plough,
and 6000 by the spade, 300 under plantations, and the
remainder sand and rock. The shore on the west is in
some parts sandy, and in others strongly marked by pre-
cipitous rocks ; the eastern coast is broken with many
harbours, bays, and creeks. At a small distance on the
west are the inhabited islands denominated Tarrinsay
and Scarp ; and in the Sound of Harris, a channel about
nine miles across, affording a communication for vessels
between the Minch and the Atlantic, are the inhabited
islands of Bernera, Pabbay, Ensay, and Killigray, with
many smaller ones, uninhabited, and entirely appro-
priated to pasturage. The coasts abound with oysters
and lobsters, and several boats are engaged in taking
the latter : the sun-fish, also, is sometimes taken in
the summer months, with the harpoon ; and in the
island of Gaasker, seals are killed in large numbers
with clubs.
The main land of the parish is divided into two dis-
tinct portions by an isthmus about a quarter of a mile in
breadth, formed by an arm of the sea on each side,
respectively called East and West Loch Tarbert. The
northern district is prominently intersected by part of
a range of mountains running longitudinally through-
out the parish, and which attain an elevation of from
2000 to 3000 feet above the level of the sea, and are
here at their greatest height. This portion is traversed
by large herds of deer, which range among the hills and
glens ; and, though destitute of wood, is called the
Forest, having, as is supposed, been once a royal forest.
The surface of the southern portion of the parish is
similar in appearance to the former, but marked by more
moderate elevations : grouse, wild-geese, plover, and
pigeons, are numerous on the moors and lower grounds ;
and the eagle is a visitant of some of the most lofty
536
rocks. There are fresh-water lakes and rivulets in every
direction; the waters of Lacksta, Scurt, and Obbe
abound with salmon and trout. The district is chiefly
pastoral, only a very small portion, on account of the
intractable nature of the ground, being capable of
the regular operations of husbandry. The soil of a
large part of the land in cultivation is very poor ; and
several of the best farms, formerly possessed by small
tenants, have been consolidated, and converted into
sheep-walks. The crops consist principally of oats, bar-
ley, and potatoes ; the live stock are mostly Cheviot
sheep and black- cattle, to the breed of which particular
attention is paid. The small tenants occupy cottages of
unhewn stone, with clay cement, and covered with straw
thatch, the one building often serving for the family and
the cows and horses : on the larger farms are respect-
able steadings. The Earl of Dunmore is proprietor of
the parish, and has a shooting-seat here. The rocks are
partly of the primitive formation ; but that which most
prevails is gneiss. The rateable annual value of Harris
is £4015.
About 250 families are engaged, during the summer
months, in the manufacture of kelp, 600 tons of which
are annually prepared : attempts were made by the late
proprietor to establish fishing-stations in several parts
of the parish, but they all proved unsuccessful. The
harbour of Scalpay, on the eastern coast, is much fre-
quented by foreign ships ; and the numerous bays and
creeks are convenient places of resort for small craft.
Many boats belong to the parish, and are employed in
conveying kelp to market : the lobsters taken here are
regularly sent by smacks to London. A packet runs twice
in each week in summer, and once in winter, between
Tarbert, in Harris, and Uig, in the Isle of Skye. An
annual fair is held in July, at Tarbert, for the sale of
cattle and horses ; the sheep graziers send their stock
to the Falkirk tryst. The parish is in the presbytery of
Uist and synod of Glenelg, and in the patronage of the
Earl of Dunmore: the minister's stipend is £158, of
which nearly two-thirds are received from the exche-
quer, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £45 per
annum. A new church, with 400 sittings, has just
been built, the old edifice, situated nearly in the centre
of the parish, and accommodating only 250 persons,
having become too ruinous for public worship. At
Bernera is a government church, erected in 1829, to
which is attached a district consisting of some islands
belonging to the parish ; and a missionary is supported
at Tarbert by the Royal Bounty, a church and manse
having been provided by A. N. Macleod, Esq., the late
proprietor. The parochial school affords instruction in
Latin, in addition to the ordinary branches ; the master
has a salary of £30, with a house, and about £6 fees.
There are also three schools supported by the Gaelic
School Society, Gaelic being the prevailing language of
the place ; but these will soon be superseded by Eng-
lish schools. The chief relic of antiquity is the ruin of
a church at Rodil, once attached to the priory of St.
Clement's, and used, until it became too much dilapi-
dated, as the parochial place of worship.
HARTHILL, a village, in the parish of Shotts,
Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; containing 1?6
inhabitants.
HASCUSSAY, an isle, in the parish of Mid and
South Yell, county of Shetland ; containing 42
HAVE
HA W I
inhabitants. It lies on the east side of Yell, in Col-
grave sound, and west of the isle of Fetlar ; it is one of
the smaller of the Shetland group, and was formerly
uninhabited.
HASSENDEAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Minto,
district of Jedburgh, county of Roxburgh, 7 miles
(W.) from Jedburgh ; containing 21 inhabitants. This
place, seated on a small stream of the same name, was
anciently a parish, of which the lands were divided be-
tween the parishes of Minto, Wilton, and Roberton.
After the Reformation the church and its pertinents
were granted to Walter, Earl of Buccleuch. There was
formerly a cell here, dependent on the abbey of Mel-
rose ; and a farm adjoining the church continues to
bear the name of the Monks' croft. The church and
greater part of the churchyard have been washed away
by the river Teviot, which passes on the south of the
parish of Minto, and of which the Hassendean burn is
a tributary.
HAUGH, a village, in the parish of Mauchline,
district of Kyle, county of Ayr, 1§ mile (S.) from
Mauchline; containing 79 inhabitants. It is seated on
the north bank of the river Ayr, and has a woollen
manufactory, chiefly for carpet yarn, employing about
thirty persons.
HAUGH, a village, in the parish of Urr, stewartry
of Kirkcudbright, 4| miles (N. E.) from Castle-
Douglas ; containing 240 inhabitants. It is situated
on the Urr water, about a mile westward from the
church, and is one of the four most populous villages
in the parish.
HAUGH-HEAD, a village, in the parish ofCAMPSiE,
county of Stirling ; containing 328 inhabitants, This
place is situated in the western part of the parish, and
is one of several villages of which the population is
engaged in the coal-mines, print-works, and print-fields
of the district.
HAUGH-M1LL, a village, in that part of the parish
of Markinch which formed the quoad sacra parish of
Milton of Balgonie, county of Fife ; containing 1/0
inhabitants. This village has risen since the erection
of some mills, in 1794, for the spinning of flax and tow
into canvass yarn, for which purpose they continued to
be employed till 1832, when the present proprietor in-
troduced a complete set of new machinery, for the
spinning of the finer yarns for home-made linens. In
1835, he greatly augmented the number of spindles,
now amounting to 2000. The machinery is propelled
by two water-wheels of forty-horse power ; and from
twenty-five to thirty tons of flax are consumed monthly,
imported chiefly from Holland, Belgium, France, Arch-
angel, Riga, and St. Petersburg. In 1836, a spacious
bleachfield was established in connexion with the works ;
and both of these afford employment to about 185
persons, many of whom live in cottages built upon the
premises.
HAVEN, EAST, a village, in the parish of Pan-
bride, county of Forfar, 4| miles (S. \V.) from
Arbroath; containing 145 inhabitants. This place de-
rives its affix from its relative situation with respect to
another village, about a mile distant, and also on the
sea-coast. It is neatly built, and is inhabited chiefly
by persons engaged in the fishery, and in the trades
requisite for the supply of the immediate neighbour-
hood. The fish that are taken are, lobsters, cod, had-
Vol. I. — 537
docks, and other kinds, which are found in abundance
off this part of the coast, and are sent to Dundee and
other places in the vicinity, and to the London market.
Great quantities of lobsters are forwarded to London,
being kept alive during the passage by the free admis-
sion of sea-water into wells constructed for that pur-
pose. The cod and haddocks are sold fresh at Dundee,
and markets in the vicinity ; and after the supply of
the neighbourhood, many are salted, and exported to
distant places. Three boats are employed in the fishery :
the season for the lobster-fishing commences in the
beginning of February, and usually terminates about
the end of May. A considerable trade, also, is carried
on here, during the summer, in the importation of coal
and lime ; and there are, belonging to this place and
West Haven, four vessels, varying in burthen from
about fifty to seventy tons. The village has no pro-
perly constructed harbour, but merely an open cove or
landing place, accessible to vessels of eighty tons ; so
that, from the want of shelter, the trade is entirely dis-
continued during the winter. Facility of intercourse is
afforded by the great turnpike-road from Dundee to
Arbroath, and by the Dundee and Arbroath railway,
which has an intermediate station here, a handsome
structure in the Elizabethan style, furnished with every
requisite accommodation.
HAVEN, WEST, a village, in the parish of Pan-
bride, county of Forfar, 5| miles (S. W.)from Ar-
broath ; containing 301 inhabitants. This village is
situated on the coast, at a distance of a mile only
from East Haven, and, with the exception of a small
hamlet adjoining it, to the landward, is in every
respect so identified with that village in its fishery,
trade, and other circumstances, as to require no separate
description.
HAVERA, county of Shetland. — See Halvera.
HAWICK, a burgh of
barony and a parish, in the
district of Hawick, county
of Roxburgh, 10 miles (w.
S. W.) from Jedburgh, and
50 (S. S. E.) from Edin-
burgh ; containing S000 in-
habitants, of whom 7000 are
in the burgh. This place, of
which the name simply de-
notes " a village or town in
the bend of a river," is of
remote antiquity, and is ge-
nerally supposed to have been originally of Saxon foun-
dation ; but very little of its history is known prior to
the commencement of the fourteenth century. The first
authentic notice of the burgh occurs in a charter granted
by Robert Bruce ; and the barony, together with that
of Sprouston, appears to have been conferred by David
II. on Thomas de Murray, from whom it descended,
during that king's reign, to Maurice, Earl of Strathearn.
In the early part of the fifteenth century, it became the
property of Sir William Douglas, who, for his gallant
services in the wars of the border, obtained from James
I. a charter confirming to him the lands of Hawick, and
bestowing also those of Selkirk and Drumlanrig. The
barony remained for many generations in the possession
of his descendants, of whom Sir William Douglas was,
in 1639, created Earl of Queensberry, Viscount Drum-
3 Z
Burgh Seal.
HAWI
H A WI
lanrig, and Lord Hawick. It subsequently became the
property of the Scott family, who continued to exercise
lordly authority over their feudatories till the year 1747,
when, on the final abolition of heritable jurisdictions,
the Duke of Buccleuch received from parliament the
sum of £400, as a compensation. During the border
warfare, the town suffered repeated devastation ; in 1418,
it was burnt by the forces under Sir Robert Umfraville,
governor of Berwick, and in 1544 was laid waste by the
troops of Sir Ralph Evers and Sir Brian Latoun. In
1570, to prevent its occupation by the English under
the Earl of Surrey, the inhabitants themselves set fire
to the town, which, with the exception of the ancient
castle, called the Black Tower, was wholly destroyed,
In rebuilding the town after these calamities, the dan-
gers to which it was exposed led to the adoption of a
peculiar style of architecture ; the houses were built of
rough whinstone, with walls of massive thickness, and
without any entrance except from a court-yard in the
rear. Of these buildings, each of which was well cal-
culated for defence, there are still some few specimens
remaining. From its situation near the confluence of
two rivers, the town is exposed to inundations ; and in
1767, after a heavy fall of rain, the Slitrig, in the course
of two hours, rose to a height of twenty feet above its
ordinary level, and carried away the garden wall of the
manse, the parish school-room, a corn-mill, and the
whole of the houses in one of the streets.
The present town is pleasantly seated on the south-
east bank of the Teviot, and is divided into two parts by
the river Slitrig, which flows through it into the former
stream. It consists of one principal street, and of seve-
ral smaller streets and lanes diverging from it on both
sides ; some new streets have been formed, and a hand-
some range of buildings called Slitrig-crescent, and
another named Teviot-crescent. The streets are well
paved, and lighted with gas ; and the inhabitants are
amply supplied with water, conveyed by pipes. Con-
necting the opposite sides of the town are two bridges
over the Slitrig, one of which is of antique character ;
and towards the eastern extremity, an elegant bridge
has been erected across the Teviot. The approach to
the town, both from the east and west, derives great
beauty from the nursery grounds and gardens in those
directions ; the surrounding scenery, also, is very pleas-
ing. The public subscription library, established in
1762, is supported by a proprietary of shareholders, and
has a collection of 3500 volumes ; the trades' library,
opened in 1802, has 1200 volumes ; and there are seve-
ral smaller libraries. The town also contains three
public reading and news rooms, as well as subscription
assembly-rooms, which are used occasionally for public
meetings. A school of arts, founded in 1824, under the
patronage of James Douglas, Esq., was formerly sup-
ported by subscription, for the delivery of courses of
lectures on literary and scientific subjects.
The staple trade is the woollen manufacture, which
of late has been rapidly increasing, and is now carried
on to a very considerable extent. The weaving of coarse
woollen stockings was first introduced in 1771, by Mr.
John Hardie, and, on his retiring from the concern in
1780, was continued on a much larger scale by Mr.
John Nixon. Still, comparatively little was done pre-
viously to the adoption of machinery for the spinning of
yarn, which took place about the commencement of the
538
present century. Since that period the woollen manu-
facture has greatly increased in variety and extent ; and
there are now eleven factories belonging to the manu-
facturers of this place, some of them, however, situated
within the limits of the adjoining parish of Wilton.
In all of these, machinery on the most approved prin-
ciples is employed ; four are partly driven by steam,
and the others by water only. The articles are, under-
clothing, flannels, plaidings, shawls, tartans, drug-
gets and woollen cloths of every description, lambs'-
wool hosiery of the finest texture, and Scottish and
English blankets. The production of these affords occu-
pation, including women, to nearly 3000 persons. There
are also many persons employed in the making of
thongs, gloves, candles, and some other articles, and in
the tanning of leather and dressing of sheep-skins ; the
manufacture of machinery of all kinds is consider-
able ; and there are numerous masons, carpenters,
smiths, millwrights, and others occupied in handicraft
trades. The post-office has a good delivery ; and pre-
viously to the alteration in the rates of postage the
revenue amounted to £1000. There are three branch
banks, and a savings' bank, in which latter the deposits
are nearly £7000. The market is on Thursday, and is
amply supplied with grain and with all kinds of provi-
sions. Fairs are held on the 17th of May, for cattle
and hiring servants; on the 20th and 21st of Septem-
ber, for sheep ; on the third Tuesday in October, for
cattle and horses ; and the 8th of November, for cattle
and hiring servants. Facility of communication is
afforded by turnpike and statute roads, which have
been greatly improved, and by bridges over the rivers,
kept in excellent repair.
The more ancient records of the burgh were lost in
the destruction of the town during the border wars ;
and the oldest charter now extant is that granted by
James Douglas, baron of Hawick, and dated in 1537.
Under this charter, ratified and extended in 1545, by
Mary, Queen of Scots, the inhabitants exercise all the
privileges of a royal burgh, with the exception of send-
ing a member to parliament. The government is vested
in two bailies, elected annually, a treasurer, and a cotin-
cil of thirty-one members, of whom fifteen are appointed
as vacancies occur, and hold their seats for life, and
fourteen are chosen every year by the seven incorpo-
rated trades, each of which returns two. The fees for
admission as a burgess are, for strangers £4, for the
sons-in-law of burgesses £2, and for sons £1. The in-
corporated trades are, the weavers, tailors, hammermen,
skinners, shoemakers, butchers, and bakers, the highest
fee for admission into which is ten shillings. The ma-
gistrates hold courts when requisite, both for civil and
criminal cases within the burgh, in which they are
assisted by the town-clerk, who acts as assessor ; in
civil pleas their jurisdiction extends to sums of any
amount, but in criminal cases is confined to petty mis-
demeanours. Annually, on the last Friday in May, O. S.,
a procession of the magistrates on horseback occurs,
which is called the riding of the marches ; and on this
occasion, a standard taken in 1514, the year subse-
quent to that in which the battle of Flodden Field
was fought, is carried before them. There is a town-
hall, in which the courts are held ; and a gaol has
been very recently erected for the use of the town and
district.
H A W I
HEBH
The parish, which is situated in the western portion
of the county, is about fifteen and a half miles in length,
and rather more than a mile and a half in average
breadth, comprising an area of 15,360 acres, of which
4100 are arable, 160 woodland and plantations, and
11,100 meadow and pasture. The surface is beautifully
diversified. A sinuous valley, watered by the river
Teviot, intersects the parish nearly through the whole
length, and is bounded on either side by ranges of
hills, clothed with verdure to their summits, and seve-
ral of which have a considerable elevation. The vale of
the Slitrig, intersecting the parish towards the east,
forms also a rich pastoral district, though of more wild
and secluded aspect. The scenery is greatly enlivened
by the windings of the two rivers, which unite at the
town ; and the hills command a varied prospect over
the adjacent country. The soil along the banks of the
streams is generally gravelly, and on the other arable
lands a light loam. The system of agriculture has
greatly improved within the last few years ; and a con-
siderable quantity of waste has been drained, and ren-
dered profitable, under the auspices of an agricultural
society for the west of Teviotdale, formed in 1S35, un-
der the patronage of the Duke of Buceleuch. The usual
crops are, grain of every kind, with potatoes and tur-
nips. The farm-buildings are comrnodiously arranged ;
all the various improvements in agricultural implements
have been adopted ; and great attention is paid to the
breeds of cattle and sheep, of which great numbers are
reared in the pastoral districts. The plantations are
well managed, and in a thriving state. The rocks are
composed chiefly of greywaeke ; and there are some
quarries of stone, of good quality for the roads. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £12,923.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Jedburgh and synod of
Merse and Teviotdale. The minister's stipend is £278,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £56 per annum ;
patron, the Duke of Buceleuch. The old parish church,
erected in 1764, on rising ground in the centre of the
town, is a very plain structure containing 704 sittings,
a number totally inadequate to the population. An ele-
gant new church has been erected by the Duke. The
members of the Free Church have also a place of wor-
ship ; and there are places of worship for the United
Associate Synod, Relief, Independent body, Roman
Catholics, and Society of Friends. The parochial school
is under the management of a rector and his assistant,
who divide between them a salary of £33, paid by the
heritors, £19, the proceeds of a bequest by the Rev.
Alexander Orrock in 171 1, and the fees, averaging £106,
of all which the rector has three-fifths, with an allowance
of £17 in lieu of a dwelling-house, and the assistant
two-fifths. The school is attended by about 220 chil-
dren, who are instructed in the Latin, Greek, and
French languages, and the mathematics, &c. There is
also a school in the hamlet of Newmiil, endowed by the
heritors with a salary of £12 to the master, in addition
to his fees, which average £18 per annum. At the
upper extremity of the town are the remains of a moat,
supposed to have been a place for administering justice ;
and in various parts of the parish are vestiges of border
fortresses, of which the most remarkable is that called
the Black Tower, the baronial seat of the lords of Drum-
lanrig, subsequently the residence of Anw, Duchess of
539
Buceleuch, and now forming part of the Tower inn.
Another is attached to the castle of Branxholme, the
ancient residence of the Buceleuch family, and cele-
brated by Sir Walter Scott in his Lay of the Last Min-
strel. This castle was burnt by the Earl of Northum-
berland, in 1532, and blown up with gunpowder during
the invasion of the Earl of Surrey, in 1570; but was
partly rebuilt, according to an inscription on the walls,
by "Sir W. Scott, of Branxheim, Knyte," in 1574, and
completed by " Dame Margaret Douglas, his spous," in
1576. On the brow of a hill at Goldielands, about two
miles distant, is a third border fortress, which retains
much of its original character, and is said to have been
the residence of the Goldie family. An ancient vessel
of bronze, with a handle and spout, and standing on
three feet, supposed to have been used by the Romans
for sacrifice, was dug up a few years since, at Reasknow,
and is now in the possession of James Grieve, Esq., of
Branxholme Braes, who has also a coin of Alexan-
der III., discovered in the moss at Hislop, and in a very
perfect state. On the removal of a cairn near the town,
about 1S09, several large stones placed edgewise, and
inclosing a human skull and bones of large size, were
found ; and some sepulchral urns of rude workmanship
have been discovered at various times.
HAWKSTONE, a hamlet, in the parish of St.
Madoes, county of Perth, 2| miles (W. S. W.) from
Errol ; containing 51 inhabitants. It lies in the eastern
part of the parish, and is one of the only two hamlets,
or, as they are sometimes designated, villages, it con-
tains. Here is a large stone, which tradition says is
the stone whereon the hawk of the peasant Hay, the
ancestor of the noble family of that name, alighted, after
it had performed its flight round the land that was,
consequently, given to that gallant rustic, in reward of
his services performed at the battle of Luncarty. Hence
the name of the place. — See Redgorton.
HAZELBANK, a village, in the parish of Lesma-
hago, Upper Ward of the county of Lanark, 4 miles
(N. by E.) from Lesmahago ; containing 238 inhabitants.
It is situated in the north-eastern part of the parish, on
the road from Lanark to Larkhall, and on the west
bank of the Clyde, which here separates Lesmahago
from the parish of Lanark.
HEBRIDES, or Western Islands, a series of
islands in the Atlantic Ocean, about 300 in number,
of which S6 are inhabited ; lying at various distances
from the western coast of the Highlands ; and chiefly
pertaining to the counties of Argyll, Inverness, and
Ross. Of the early history of these islands but very
little is known ; they appear to have been anciently
under the jurisdiction of petty chieftains, sometimes in-
dependent, and at others tributary to the kings of
Norway. About the 12th century, these chieftains
began to meditate inroads on the mainland: in 1153,
Somerled invaded Scotland, and made an attempt to
dethrone Malcolm IV., in which he was defeated by the
Earl of Angus ; and on a subsequent occasion he was
slain in a battle near Renfrew. After the death of
Magnus, son of Olave, the last of the independent
chieftains, the sovereignty of the isles was ceded to
Alexander III., by treaty signed at Perth in 1266 ; but,
notwithstanding that treaty, the descendants of the old
chieftains assumed the title of lords of the isles, and
exercised a jurisdiction irrespective of the crown. Of
3 Z 2
HE L E
HELM
these, John, lord of Cantyre, married a daughter of
Robert II. ; and from this alliance, his family derived a
great accession of power and influence, Donald, his
son, at the head of 10,000 men, ravaged the county of
Ross, but was eventually defeated, in 1411. James I.
waged incessant war against these turbulent chiefs,
many of whom he took prisoners, and hanged ; and
Donald, lord of the isles, was put to death in Ireland ;
but it was not till the reign of James V. that the lords
were brought into complete subjection to the Scottish
crown. Of these various isles, of which the principal
are separately described, that of Lewis, with its adjacent
islands, chiefly belongs to the county of Ross ; Barra,
Eig, North Uist, South Uist, Skye, and smaller isles, to
the county of Inverness ; and Canna, Muck, Rum,
Gigha and Cara, Colonsay and Oronsay, Tiree and Coll,
Mull, Jura, and Islay, with the circumjacent isles, to the
county of Argyll.
HECK, a hamlet, in the parish of Lochmaben,
county of Dumfries, 1\ miles (W. S. W.) from Lock-
erbie ; containing 57 inhabitants. It lies on the west
side of the Annan, which river forms the eastern boun-
dary of the parish. The village is ancient, and is one
of several the holm ground around which is extremely
rich and fertile. Mention is made of the place in royal
warrants under the sign-manual of James VI. and of
Charles II.
HEISKER, an isle, in the parish of North Uist,
county of Inverness; containing 39 inhabitants. It is
one of the Hebrides, lying about two miles westward
of North Uist ; and is two miles in length, but very
narrow. The soil is sandy, yielding very scanty pas-
ture at any time, and but a small quantity of grain.
The isle has hitherto derived its chief value from its
kelp shores.
HELENSBURGH, a town, and a burgh of barony,
chiefly in the parish of Row, but partly in that of
Cardross, county of Dumbarton ; containing 2229
inhabitants, of whom 1672 are in the burgh, 8 miles
(N. W. by W.) from Dumbarton. This place is situated
on the north shore of the Frith of Clyde, at the entrance
of the Gareloch, and nearly opposite to the port of
Greenock, on the other side of the Frith, which is here
about four miles in width. It was founded in 1777» by
Sir James Colquhoun, in honour of his wife, Lady
Helen Sutherland, from whom it derives its name ; and
has rapidly grown into importance as a fashionable
watering-place, and a favourite resort of families of dis-
tinction during the summer months. The town is
regularly built, and consists partly of one principal
street, extending along the shore for more than a mile,
and intersected at right angles by numerous other well-
formed streets. The houses are of handsome appear-
ance, and interspersed with pleasing villas having
grounds tastefully laid out ; the surrounding scenery,
also, is agreeably diversified. On the opposite shore
of the Gareloch are the elegant mansion and pleasure-
grounds of Roseneath ; and at the western extremity of
the town is Ardincaple, the beautiful seat of the Duke
of Argyll, who is also proprietor of Roseneath. Along
the banks of the Gareloch are various interesting pro-
menades ; and to the north, the scenery is boldly
marked with rugged mountains of Highland character.
A public library, containing more than 1000 volumes,
and a news-room amply furnished with daily journals
540
and periodical publications, are supported by subscrip-
tion ; there are two commodious hotels, with several
inns, and also numerous lodging-houses for the accom-
modation of visitors. On the shore, at the east end of
the town, is a spacious and well-arranged building,
containing hot and cold baths, with every requisite
appendage.
Facility of intercourse is provided by steamers to
Greenock, which make nine trips daily ; and from
Greenock steamers run to Glasgow, touching at all
the intermediate places on both banks of the Clyde.
Between Greenock and Glasgow are also six railway
trains, in connexion with the Helensburgh boats ; and
persons leaving Glasgow by these trains reach Helens-
burgh in one hour and a half. The passage, by steam-
boat, to Glasgow, is about three hours, and to Greenock
a quarter of an hour. The quay, constructed in 1817,
and which, at high water, was partly obstructed, has
been greatly improved ; and a very substantial and com-
modious quay has been made about a mile to the west
of the town, at the entrance of the Gareloch. The
town was erected into a burgh of barony by charter
granted in 1802 to Sir James Colquhoun, under whom,
as superior, the government is vested in a provost, two
bailies, and four councillors, elected annually by the
burgesses from their own body, consisting of all inha-
bitants who are leaseholders of houses and lands under
the superior. A weekly market on Thursday, and four
annual fairs, of two days each, for horses, cattle, and
other merchandise, on the second Tuesday in February,
the 1st June, the 6th August, and the 12th November,
are allowed by charter ; but they are not much fre-
quented. The late quoad sacra parish of Helensburgh
was separated from the parish of Row, by act of the
presbytery, in 1839, and contained a population of 1899.
The church was originally built for a congregation of
Seceders, in 1824, and, on their re-union to the Esta-
blished Church, was made parochial ; it passed, how-
ever, in 1843, into the hands of members of the
Free Church, the minister and congregation joining
in the great secession of that year. The building con-
tains 600 sittings ; and there is also an Independent
meeting-house in the town. A school is partly sup-
ported by the Kirk Session ; and a grant has been
given by government towards the erection of a paro-
chial school. Mr. Henry Bell, who first successfully
applied the steam-engine to navigation, resided at this
place from 1804 till his decease in 1830; he built
his first steam-boat, the Comet, at Port-Glasgow, in
1S12, and made his first passage across the Clyde to
Helensburgh.
HELESAY, an island, in the parish of Barra,
county of Inverness ; containing 108 inhabitants. It
is one of a numerous group of isles that lie in the
strait between Barra and South Uist, from the former
of which it is about five miles distant. On the west of
the island is Ottervore Sound.
HELMSDALE, a fishing-village, in the parish of
Loth, county of Sutherland, 17 miles (N. E.) from
Golspie; containing 526 inhabitants. This village is
situated on the north bank of the river Helmsdale, near
its influx into the Moray Frith. It consists chiefly of
neatly-built houses inhabited by persons engaged in the
fisheries, and is connected with the western portion of
the parish by a handsome bridge of two arches, erected
H E RI
H E R I
over the Helmsdale, at an expense of £2200, by the
parliamentary commissioners, in 1S11. It has long
been celebrated for its valuable salmon-fisheries on the
river, belonging to the Duke of Sutherland, and which
are carefully managed under the superintendence of the
proprietor's agents : the fish, which are of superior size
and flavour, are sent packed in ice to the London
market, where they are purchased by contract. The
herring-fishery, in the Frith, is also very extensive ;
houses for curing the herrings have been built on a
principle well adapted for the purpose ; and since the
year 1S15, the quantity cured at this place has gradually
increased from about 5000 to 46,000 barrels annually,
of which the whole are exported to the continent and
to Ireland. The harbour was greatly improved by
the erection of a substantial pier by the proprietor, at a
cost of £1600, in 1S18, since which time additional
sums have been expended ; and still further improve-
ments are in contemplation. The fishery affords em-
ployment to a very considerable number of coopers, and
a steam-mill has been erected for sawing the staves of
the barrels ; there are also several boat-builders ; and
various handicraft trades are carried on for the supply
of the inhabitants. A post-office has been established,
which has a daily delivery ; and facility of communica-
tion is afforded by the parliamentary road from Dun-
robin, in the parish of Golspie, to the Ord of Caithness ;
by a good road from the village, through the strath of
Kildonan, to the North Sea ; and by vessels from dif-
ferent ports of England and Ireland, which touch at
the harbour. A handsome church has recently been
erected in the village by the Duke of Sutherland, in
which a minister of the Establishment officiates occa-
sionally ; and there is a school supported ; also a large
place of worship in connexion with the Free Church,
opened in February, 1S45.
HERBERTSHIRE, a village, in the parish of Duni-
pace, county of Stirling, 7 miles (W. N. W.) from
Falkirk; containing "61 inhabitants. This village, some-
times called Milton, is situated on the north bank of the
Carron, over which is a handsome bridge of three arches,
connecting it with the village of Denny. The inhabit-
ants are chiefly engaged in the printing of calico, which
was first established here in 1/S3, and is conducted on
an extensive scale, in works belonging to Charles Carnie,
Esq., who has a residence near the village. The num-
ber of persons employed in this establishment is about
400, of whom 120 are females ; the process is partly
carried on by machiner)' of ingenious construction, and
some of the machines will imprint four different colours
at the same time.
HERIOT, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh ;
containing, with the hamlets of Fala-Hill Inn, Robert-
son, and Broomieknowe, 355 inhabitants. The history
of this parish is of little interest, except as connected
with the various proprietors of its lands and ecclesiasti-
cal revenues. The church was formerly of considerable
value ; and its patrouage, in the 12th and 13th centu-
ries, belonged to Roger de Quincy, then lord of the
manor, and constable of Scotland, who is supposed to
have derived it from the lords of Galloway, and these
latter from the Morvilles. In portioning out his estates
among his three daughters, De Quincy gave Heriot to
Elena, the youngest, who married La Touche, an Eng-
lish baron, and who afterwards granted the church of
541
" Heryeth," as it was then called, to the monastery of
Newbottle, which gift was confirmed by a bull of pope
Nicholas, and by Fraser, Bishop of St. Andrew's, the
diocesan. In 1309, William Blair, the incumbent, re-
signed his vicarage to Bishop Lamberton, who imme-
diately gave the vicarage revenues to the monks of New-
bottle, who already possessed the rectory. At the time
of the Reformation, these monks held both the church
and lands of Heryeth. The property soon afterwards
came into the hands of Mark Kerr, commendator of
Newbottle, to whose heir it regularly descended ; and
the lands then successively passed to Robert, second
earl of Lothian, by whom they were sold to Walter
Hay, to whose son they fell in 1643. On the failure of
this family in 1692, by the death of lord Borthwick, the
barony of Heriot came to a son of Lord Stair, from whom
it descended, through the late dowager lady Dalrymple,
to her eldest son, the Earl of Stair, present proprietor of
the lands.
The parish, which is of oblong form, is about six and
a half miles long, and three and three-quarters broad,
and contains 15,000 acres. It is bounded on the north-
west by Temple and Borthwick parishes ; on the east
by Stow, and part of Fala ; and on the south by Inner-
leithen, in Peeblesshire. It is altogether hilly, and a
pastoral parish, only about one-tenth of the land being
arable. The ground rises in some parts to a great eleva-
tion, particularly in the south-east, where is the hill of
Dewar, about 1654 feet above the level of the sea; and
also in the south-west, where Blackup Scars, which is
the highest hill, rises 1000 feet above the sea at its base,
and 2193 at its summit. These hills are part of the
Moorfoot range, which is a branch of the Lammermoor
and Soutra, stretching from the north-east towards
Peebles on the south-west. A great variety of rare
plants is to be found, affording, especially in the months
of August and September, a rich field for botanical re-
search. The higher grounds are mostly bare of trees,
there being, indeed, a great want of plantations in every
part of the parish. The climate, from the elevated situa-
tion of the district, and the hilly character of the sur-
face, is bleak and piercing, though salubrious. The
Heriot water rises in the south-west extremity of the
parish, and, after winding in its course for five miles,
unites with the Gala at the eastern boundary, about a
mile and a half below the church. This stream, which
is subject to frequent swellings, rose in August 1S37 to
an unusual height, destroying dykes and walls, and
bringing desolation to the property within the range of
its violence. The Gala water has its source in the north,
and, after a course of about two miles, quits the parish
near its junction with the Heriot.
The soil on the banks of the rivers is rich and fertile,
and capable of producing the finest crops, though the
severity of the climate is a great obstacle to the opera-
tions of husbandry. The wheat grown is inconsiderable,
and barley is now substituted in the place of bear. The
number of acres under pasture is upwards of 12,000, of
which about 1600 are considered susceptible of profit-
able cultivation. Besides the grain, potatoes and tur-
nips of good quality are raised. The parish, however,
is chiefly celebrated for its sheep and cattle, the former,
which are partly of the Cheviot kind, being reared in very
large numbers ; about 766O sheep are regularly kept,
and the lambs fetch the highest prices. Of the small
PI I G H
HO B K
quantity of wood grown, the beech, larch, and plane
seem best adapted to the soil. There are numerous en-
closures, and these of a very superior kind ; and the
farm-steadings throughout the parish are generally in a
pretty fair state. The farms vary in extent from 50 to
2000 acres. There is no village : the chief communi-
cation of the inhabitants is with Dalkeith, nine miles
distant. About three miles of good turnpike road run
through the parish ; but the other roads belonging to
the locality are indifferent, and there are no facilities of
this kind in the higher lands for the purpose of trans-
porting lime and other manure, the extensive applica-
tion of which, for the improvement of the poorer grounds,
is thus prevented. The rateable annual value of Heriot
is £3854. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the
presbytery of Dalkeith and s)'nodof Lothian and Tweed-
dale, and the patronage is vested in the Earl of Stair.
The stipend of the minister is £15S, of which about a
fifth is received from the Exchequer, with a manse,
built in 1793, and repaired in 1S29, and a fine garden of
the best soil ; adjoining it is a glebe of twenty acres of
land, valued at £30 per annum. The church is situated
about the centre of the parish, and accommodates 200
persons with sittings; it was rebuilt in 1S04, and has
since undergone extensive repairs, by which it has been
rendered convenient and comfortable. A parochial
school is supported, the master of which has a salary of
£34, with a house, and about £25 fees. There is also a
parochial library. The relics of antiquity merely com-
prise some camps, consisting of two or three concentric
circles, and a gateway, the history of which is unknown.
HERMISTON, a village, in the parish of Currie,
county of Edinburgh, If mile (N. by W.) from Currie;
containing 164 inhabitants. It is situated on the road
from Edinburgh to East Calder, which intersects the
northern part of the parish ; and is the third village of
Currie in extent and population.
HERMITRAY, an isle, in the parish of Harris,
island of Lewis, county of Inverness ; containing
8 inhabitants. This is one of a group of isles situated
in the sound of Harris, and east of the island of
Bernera, A fishing statioii was established here by
Charles I.
HERRIOTFIELD, a village, in the parish of Mon-
zie, county of Perth ; containing 106 inhabitants.
HESTON, an isle, in the parish of Rerrick, stew-
artry of Kirkcudbright. It is a small island, situated
at the mouth of the river Urr, -which discharges itself
into the Solway Frith. Standing high out of the water,
it affords good shelter to Auchencairn bay, where is a
safe and commodious anchorage for small shipping.
The island is of smooth surface, and pastures sheep.
HIETON, a village, in the parish of Roxburgh,
district of Kelso, county of Roxburgh, 1 mile (E. by
S.) from Kelso ; containing 214 inhabitants. This vil-
lage is pleasantly situated on the turnpike-road leading
from Kelso to Jedburgh, and is inhabited chiefly by
persons employed in agriculture ; the surrounding sce-
nery is varied, and the adjacent lands in a good state of
cultivation. There is a parochial school here.
HIGHTAE, a village, in the parish of Lochmaben,
county of Dumfries, 2§ miles (S. W. by W.) from
Lockerbie; containing 436 inhabitants. It is situated
in the eastern part of the parish, and a short distance
from the river Annan, which separates Lochmaben fr >m
542
the parish of Dryfesdale. This is one of the villages de-
nominated the "Four Towns," the lands around which
being portions of the original royal domains granted by
Robert Bruce in small plots to the domestic servants of
Lochmaben Castle, are still held without any written
title other than a transference, by a tenant, of his right
to a successor. The holm ground attached to these
villages, of which this is the largest, is uncommonly
rich and fertile. Loch Hightae, in the vicinity, is a
fine lake of fifty-two acres, abounding in perch, pike,
trout, bream, roach, and other fish. The Cameronians
have a place of worship, built in 1766, originally for a
Relief congregation ; and a school is endowed with the
interest of £100, left by Mr. James Richardson in 1726.
— See Lochmaben.
HILDASAY, an isle, in the parish of Tingwall,
county of Shetland. It is of small extent, and lies
near the south coast of the main land of Shetland, and
nearly parallel with Skelda Ness.
HlLLEND, a village, chiefly in the parish of Inver-
keithing, and partly in that of Dalgety, district of
Dunfermline, county of Fife, if mile (N. E. by E.)
from In verkei thing ; containing 2S1 inhabitants. It is
situated on the road from Inverkeithing to Aberdour,
and is of neat appearance. A small stream flows a little
to the north of the village.
HILLHEAD, a hamlet, in the parish of Cockpen,
county of Edinburgh, \ a mile (S. E.) from Lasswade ;
containing 76 inhabitants. It lies in the northern ex-
tremity of the parish, on the road from Lasswade to
Cockpen ; and in its neighbourhood are several coal-
mines. The scenery around is embellished with some
good mansions.
HILLSWICK, a village, in the parish of North-
mavine, county of Shetland ; containing 211 inhabit-
ants. It is situated near Hillswick ness, and westward
of Hillswick creek, which opens into St. Magnus' bay,
on the north side of Shetland. The creek affords safe
and excellent anchorage for any number of vessels, and
of any burthen, having good moorings of from seven to
twenty fathoms ; there is also a large and convenient
beach for drying fish, with warehouses, and salt and
fish cellars. Numerous voes indent this part of the
coast.
HILLYLAND, a village, in the parish of Tibber-
more, county of Perth ; containing 202 inhabitants.
HILTON, county of Berwick. — See Whitsome.
HILTON, a hamlet, in the parish and county of
Inverness ; containing 64 inhabitants.
HILTOWN, a village, in the parish of Fearn,
county of Ross and Cromarty, 10 miles (E. S. E.) from
Tain; containing 310 inhabitants. This is a fishing
village, lying on the eastern shore of the Moray Frith :
the fishing is chiefly of grey fish and herrings, and is
carried on to a considerable extent, in connexion with
the village of Balintore, about half a mile southward.
The coast between the two places is level and sandy ;
at Hiltown, however, it becomes high and rocky.
HOBKIRK, or HOPEKIRK, a parish, in the dis-
trict of Jedburgh, county of Roxburgh, 8 miles (E.
S. E.) from Hawick ; containing 776 inhabitants. This
parish, which is not distinguished by any events of his-
torical importance, appears to have derived its name
from the situation of its church. It is eleven miles in
length, from north to south, and about three miles in
HOB K
HODD
breadth ; and is bounded on the north by the parishes
of Cavers and Bedrule, on the east by the parish of
Sonthdean and a small part of that of Castleton, on the
south by Castleton, and on the west by Kirkton and
Cavers. The surface is strikingly varied; in the south-
ern extremity is a chain of hills forming part of the
Cheviot range, and on the northern boundary is the
Rubberslaw hill, which has an elevation of 1420 feet
above the level of the sea. Between this hill and the
southern range is the level valley of the river Rule, on
the east bank of which is the beautiful hill of Bon-
ehester, rising in a spherical form to a height of 1260
feet, and covered with rich verdure to its summit. The
river rises in the southern range of hills, and, flowing
through the whole length of the parish, falls into the
Teviot about two miles from its northern extremity,
after a course of nearly thirteen miles, in which it has
been augmented by many streams descending from the
higher grounds. There are numerous springs in various
parts, affording an abundant supply of excellent water ;
and some few patches of marsh and bog. The river,
with its valley, is one of the prettiest and most seques-
tered in the south of Scotland ; it abounds with trout,
and is much frequented by anglers ; and the smaller
streams also contain trout and other fish, but they are
generally swept with nets.
The soil in some parts is a reddish clay, in which
are found numerous boulders of stone ; in some places
heathy, and in others moss. The whole number of
acres is estimated at 19,000, of which nearly 3500
are arable, about 900 in wood and plantations, and the
remainder meadow, pasture, and waste land. The crops
are, oats, peas, wheat, barley, potatoes, and turnips ; the
system of agriculture is improved ; the lands have been
drained and partly inclosed, and a considerable portion
of waste has been reclaimed and brought into cultivation.
The fences are partly of paling, for which the thinnings
of the woods afford ample materials, and partly of thorn
hedges, &c. ; the old farm-houses are indifferent, but
improvement is rapidly advancing, and all the buildings
of modern erection are substantial and commodious.
Much attention is paid to the rearing of live stock.
About 10,000 sheep, mostly of the Cheviot, with a cross
of the Leicestershire breed, are fed in the pastures ;
and there are also a few of the Merino breed : the
quantity of wool produced annually is 1500 stones.
Above 300 head of young cattle, also, are reared every
year, chiefly of the short-horned breed. The woods
consist of birch, hazel, alder, beech, oak, and elm, which
on some of the lands are regularly thinned; but in the
other lands less attention has been paid, and consider-
able quantities of valuable timber might be cut down,
with great benefit to the remaining trees. The planta-
tions, which are chiefly larch and Scotch and sprnce
firs, are in a flourishing condition, and are rapidly in-
creasing in extent. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £6269. The substrata are mainly greywacke,
sandstone, and limestone, and, on the higher parts of
the hills, greenstone of several varieties. The sandstone
and limestone are quarried for building purposes and
for manure ; and a stratum of agate or coarse jasper is
found at Robertslin, of which various ornaments are
made. There are no villages in the parish, and but two
small hamlets, each of six or eight dwellings. Facility
of communication is afforded with the neighbouring
543
market-towns by roads kept in excellent order, and by
the turnpike-road from Hawick to Newcastle, and that
from Jedburgh to Castleton, both which pass for several
miles through the parish.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Jedburgh and synod of Merse
and Teviotdale ; and the patronage is in the Crown.
The stipend of the incumbent is £206 : the manse,
which has been thoroughly repaired within the last few
years, is a tolerably good residence, and the glebe com-
prises fifteen acres, with half the glebe of the suppressed
parish of Abbotrule, together about twenty-four acres,
valued at £40 per annum. The church, erected in 1/00,
and repaired in 1*77, and in other years, is well situated,
but a very inconvenient edifice, adapted for a congre-
gation of 400 persons : the floor, as in most ancient
churches, is below the level of the churchyard. The
parochial school affords education to about eighty chil-
dren ; the master has a salary of £32. 10., with an
allowance for deficiency of garden ground, and a house,
and the fees average £24 per annum. A subscription
library has been established, and meets with due en-
couragement. A bequest of £100 was made some time
since by Lady Yester ; the interest is divided between
the heritors for charitable purposes, and the school-
master. On Bonchester hill are considerable remains
of ancient fortifications, of which some are square, and
others of circular form, intersected also by lines of
more modern construction. This hill, which is admir-
ably adapted for the site of a camp, is supposed to have
derived its name from its having been occupied by the
Romans for that purpose. Querns, arrow heads, and
various other relics of antiquity have been found here.
On Rubberslaw and other heights are also traces of
camps ; and ashes and human bones, and urns, have
been frequently discovered. Two cairns were lately re-
moved, which are thought to have been raised over the
remains of warriors slain in some battle that occurred
near the spot ; one of these was situated on the eastern
side of Rubberslaw, and the other at Fodderlee. Of a
battle at the latter place, there are some traditionary
records ; but nothing is recorded respecting the former.
At Langraw, a great quantity of burnt bones and ashes
have been discovered, within a circular inclosure about
eighteen feet in diameter. On their removal, were
found, in the sandstone underneath, four holes, in which
upright poles had been fixed, and secured by stones
wedged in from above ; but of the purpose of the erec-
tion of these, or the use to which they were applied,
nothing is known. Mary, Queen of Scots, passed
through this parish on her route from Jedburgh to Her-
mitage Castle, and, near its extremity, was obstructed
by a bog, which has been ever since called the " Queen's
Mire." Thomson, the poet, resided, or frequently visited,
here, and wrote his first sketch of Winter from the view
of Rubberslaw^.
HODDAM, a parish, in the county of Dumfries,
6 miles (N.) from Annan ; containing, with the village
of Ecclesfechan, 1627 inhabitants. This parish com-
prehends the ancient parishes of Hoddam, Luce, and
Ecclesfechan, which were united in 1609. Hoddam, in
ancient charters, is spelt Hodholm and Hodolm, signi-
fying "the head of the holm,'' and is supposed to have
derived that appellation from its situation on the bank
of the river Annan, where the ground is flat and rich,
H OD D
HOLM
and what is usually called holm land. The name of Luce
is said to be derived from the luxuriance of the herbage;
and that of Ecclesfechan from the Latin word Ecclesia,
" a church," and an Irish abbot called Fechan, who is
thought to have lived in this part about the seventh
century. When the three parishes were united, a new
church was built in a central situation, and the old
churches gradually fell to decay. Hall-Guards, in the
parish, was the site of the old castle of Hoddam, which
is considered to have been the seat of a branch of the
family of Bruce ; but the fortress was demolished some
centuries ago, in compliance with the terms of a border
treaty. It was rebuilt by John, Lord Herries ; but
one of that family afterwards erected a castle in a more
favourable situation, at Cummertrees, on the other side
of the Annan, and the seat in this parish was then
neglected.
The parish is about five miles long, and three and a
half broad, and contains 7158 acres. It is bounded on
the north by Tundergarth ; on the south and south-
west by the river Annan ; on the east by Middlebie
parish ; and on the west by St. Mango. It is included
in the district of Annandale, and is remarkable for
the beauty of its scenery, which is interestingly diver-
sified with good grounds, wood, and water. The surface
consists for the most part of an extensive plain, sur-
rounded by gently swelling hills in the highest state of
cultivation, the whole intersected by thriving hedges,
and ornamented with groups of flourishing plantations.
The highest land is the hill of Burnswark, 740 feet
above the level of the sea, and which commands views
of several English counties, of the Isle of Man, and, in
very fine weather, of the mountainous part of York-
shire. The streams are, the Annan, the Milk, and the
Mein, the last of which, however, is only a rivulet. The
Annan is about 100 feet wide, and has numerous pools
fifteen or sixteen feet deep ; it contains salmon and
trout, but the fish have become much less plentiful since
the use of lime manure, which, when washed off the
lands by floods or rains, strongly impregnates the
waters. The Milk, touching the parish on the south-
west, is a good trout stream, and also abounds with
small fish. The Mein, which is a tributary to the
Annan, frequently changes its channel, bringing con-
siderable havoc to the lands through which it takes
its course.
The soil on the holm lands is a deep loam, and ex-
ceedingly fertile ; the great plain in the heart of the
parish is of a light gravelly soil, and also yields fine
crops. The high ground in the north, however, is
clayey, resting upon a cold tilly subsoil and a copper
rock, and is very inferior to the lands below. About
6430 acres are under cultivation ; 730 are hill pasture,
and upwards of sixty wood. All kinds of grain are
produced, though the quantity of wheat bears no pro-
portion to the oats and barley ; a few turnips and
large quantities of potatoes are raised, and almost every
cottager keeps one or two hogs, which are fed to some
extent upon the latter root. The best system of hus-
bandry is adopted ; and all the arable land being good,
and a considerable proportion of superior quality, the
crops are in general very valuable. The lands have
been entirely inclosed, within the last fifty years, with
good fences. The substrata consist chiefly of sand-
stone and limestone, with slate-clay, clay-ironstone, and
544
amygdaloid. No workable coal has yet been discovered ;
but some attempts recently made have excited a hope
that it will eventually be found. The rateable annual
value of Hoddam is £5209. The turnpike-road from
Lockerbie to Longtown runs through the parish, in
addition to which there are five cross roads. A large
and beautiful stone bridge has been erected over the
Annan, and several over the Mein : these, as well as
the roads and fences throughout the parish, are kept in
good order. The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by
the presbytery of Annan and synod of Dumfries ; alter-
nate patrons, the Duke of Buccleuch and the Sharpe
family. The stipend of the minister is £259, with a
superior manse, and three glebes valued at £43. 10. a
year. The church, built in 1S17, and standing about
a mile from Ecclesfechan, is comfortably fitted up, and
seats 561 persons. The United Secession have a place
of worship ; and there is a parochial school, the master
of which receives £35 per annum, with about £12 fees.
At Burnswark, in the northern extremity of the parish,
is one of the most entire Roman encampments in the
kingdom ; it was formed by Agricola ; and a number of
altar-pieces, arms, &c, have been found in its vicinity.
Carlyle, author of the History of the French Revolution,
was born in the parish. — See Ecclesfechan.
HOLBURN, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Old Machar, city, district, and county of
Aberdeen ; containing 3757 inhabitants. This is
partly a rural, and partly a town, district. A consi-
derable portion of the rural population may be said to
be congregated in three villages, the rest being dispersed
over the district generally, which comprises an extent
of more than two and a half square miles. The church,
which was built by subscription, in 1836, at a cost of
£1S5S. 18. 9., and opened for divine service in Sep-
tember, 1S37, stands at the junction of the principal
roads in this portion of Old Machar, and is a neat
edifice containing 1332 sittings. The stipend of the
minister is £1S0, derived from seat-rents, and of which
£100 are secured by bond. Holburn is one of four
quoad sacra parishes which were formed by an act of
the General Assembly, in 1S34, out of the parish of Old
Machar, and were lately abolished.
HOLEKETTLE-BRIDGE, a village, in the parish
of Kettle, district of Cupar, county of Fife, 1 mile
(S. W.) from Kettle ; containing 288 inhabitants. It
lies in the north-western part of the parish, on the
high road from Pitlessie to Leslie ; and is a village of
comparatively recent growth, and neatly built.
HOLLEE, a village, in the parish of Kirkpatrick-
Fleming, county of Dumfries; containing 114 in-
habitants.
HOLM and PAPLAY, a parish, in the county of
Orkney, 8 miles (S. E. by E.) from Kirkwall ; containing,
with the island of Lambholm and the village of St.
Mary, 866 inhabitants. This parish, which is situated
on the south-eastern portion of the main land, is bounded
on the north by the parishes of Kirkwall and St. An-
drew's, on the east by the German Ocean, on the west
by Scalpa Flow, and on the south by Holm Sound. It
is about six miles in length, and varies from one mile to
two miles in breadth. The coast is not very elevated :
the principal headlands are, Roseness, on the southern
extremity of Paplay, at the eastern entrance of the
sound ; Howquoy, at the western entrance ; and Skel-
II OLM
HOLY
daquoy Point, stretching for almost a quarter of a mile
from the south, and forming the western boundary of
Holm Sound bay. The sound, nearly in the centre of
which is the small but picturesque island of Lambholm,
is an important passage from the eastern to the western
coasts, through which vessels pass with greater security,
and by a shorter line, than either by the Caledonian
canal or Pentland Frith ; it affords, also, safe anchorage
for vessels which may have to wait for the tide. The
surface towards the south is low, but rises gradually
towards the north, terminating in a range of hills of
sufficient elevation to shelter the lands from the north
winds; it is intersected by numerous limpid streams.
The whole number of acres is 76IO, of which 2850
are arable, 830 in constant pasture, and the remainder
undivided common. The soil is generally a light black
loam, in some places alternated with sand, and in others
with clay ; and is well adapted for the cultivation of
turnips, which frequently attain a large growth, averag-
ing from twelve to fourteen pounds each in weight. The
chief crops are oats and bear, with potatoes, turnips,
and the various kinds of grasses ; flax, also, was for-
merly cultivated with great success. Very considerable
improvements in agriculture have taken place under
the auspices of Alexander Sutherland Gramme, Esq., the
principal, and almost the sole, proprietor of the lands.
The common Orkney breed of cattle, formerly prevalent,
has been improved by the introduction of the Dunrobin,
and also of the Teeswater, or short-horned breed ; and
a powerful stimulus has been given to the rearing of
cattle, by steam navigation, which has opened new mar-
kets for the sale of produce. The district of the parish
called Paplay has been always remarkable for the fer-
tility of its soil, and the abundance of its crops : it is
supposed to have derived its appellation from having
been the property of some religious establishment.
There is nothing peculiar in the geological features of
the parish. Graeme's Hall, the seat of the ancient family
of the Graemes, descendants of Graeme, Bishop of Ork-
ney, is now deserted.
The site of a fishing- village was laid out on the shore of
the harbour of Holm Sound when the parish was sur-
veyed in 1S2S, with a view to encourage the settlement
of fishermen by profession at this place, which, from the
convenience of its harbour, and its proximity to the
German Ocean, is peculiarly adapted to the purpose.
The fish found off the coast are, cod, ling, haddock,
halibut, flounders, and skate. For the supply of his
family, almost every inhabitant has a share in a boat ; and
most of them are also adventurers in the herring-fishery,
which commences in July, and ends in September ; but
there is no regular fishing establishment, the population
being generally agricultural. Fairs for cattle and horses
are held quarterly. The grain raised in the parish is
sent to the distilleries in Kirkwall, for which, and for
the conveyance of other produce, facilities are afforded
by steamers, which, since 1833, have continued to ply
here for eight months during the year. The ecclesias-
tical affairs are under the superintendence of the pres-
bytery of Kirkwall and synod of Orkney. The minis-
ter's stipend is £157, of which more than one-third is
paid from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £4 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Zetland.
The church, originally dedicated to St. Nicholas, and
rebuilt in 1818, is situated at Paplay, in the eastern
Vol. I. — 545
portion of the parish, and affords sufficient accommoda-
tion for the parishioners ; the seats are all free. There
is a place of worship for members of the United Seces-
sion. The parochial school is well attended ; the mas-
ter has a salary of £26, with a house and garden, and
the fees average about £5 per annum. Mr. Patrick
Graeme, sheriff-depute of the county in 1770, and pro-
prietor of Graeme's Hall, was a great benefactor to the
parish ; he supplied the inhabitants with linseed gratis,
introduced the cultivation of flax, and taught them the
art of making it into cloth, of which, for many years
prior to his decease, they exported 20,000 yards
annually to the English markets. Admiral Alexander
Grrome, who distinguished himself in the action with
the Dutch off the Dogger Bank, in which he lost his
right arm, though not resident, was also a great bene-
factor to his tenants.
HOLM ISLES, in the county of Orkney. Holm
is a name by which several islands of the Orkney
group are known, with, in most cases, a distinctive
affix. Of these, one simply called Holm is in the
parish of Westray, and lies on the east side of Papa-
Westray. Holm of Grim bister, in the parish of
Firth, is situated in a creek, east of Pomona, and a very
short distance from its shore. Holm of Howton be-
longs to Orphir parish, and is south of the main land,
in Scalpa Flow ; its scanty herbage feeds a few sheep.
Holm of Huir, in the parish of Stronsay, lies north of
the island of that name, and is appropriated to the pas-
turage of sheep and cattle. Holm of Pharay, in the
parish of Eday, is situated in Westray Frith, and north-
west of Eday, and forms a northern point of Fersness
bay. All these isles are of very small extent, and unin-
habited. Holm of Midgarth, in the parish of St.
Peter, Stronsay, is also of moderate extent; but it has
two dwellings, and six persons at present reside
upon it.
HOLMS, The, isles, in the parish of Unst, county
of Shetland, These are three minute uninhabited
isles, which lie to the north-west of the island of Unst ;
they are each nearly of the same size, and are the small-
est of the whole Shetland group.
HOLTON- SQUARE, a village, in the parish of
Alloa, county of Clackmannan ; containing 295 in-
habitants. It is a colliery village, consisting of about
sixty dwellings, and appendant to the mines of the
same name.
HOLYTOWN, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Bothwell, middle ward of the county of
Lanark, 1 1 miles (E. by S.) from Glasgow ; containing,
with the villages of Chapelhall and Newarthill, SI69 in-
habitants, of whom 900 are in the village of Holytown.
This district is situated in a part of the county abound-
ing with coal and ironstone, both of which are wrought
to a very great extent. The collieries comprise all the
various seams, and not less than from twenty to thirty
are in operation ; the ell coal, the nine feet, and the
splint coal are found in abundance in the mines of Cha-
pelhall. On the Woodhall estate, ironstone, of good
quality, principally that called the black band, is plen-
tiful ; and it is wrought at Calderbraes, near the village
of Holytown, and at Greenside, near Newhouse. The
Monkland Iron and Steel Company have extensive works
near Chapelhall, in which are three blast-furnaces,
making together about 1440 tons of pig-iron monthly,
4 A
HOLY
HOLY
and six others producing 2880 tons : in the same esta-
blishment are mills and forges in which 400 tons of
malleable iron are manufactured weekly. Some works
at Cairnbroe, also, belonging to a firm, contain six
blast-furnaces, yielding 600 tons of iron per week ■ and
two more furnaces are in contemplation. About one
hundred tons of steel are made by the Monkland Com-
pany annually, of which thirty tons are wrought into
files ; and about sixty tons of scrap iron are collected
by them monthly, and manufactured into engines for
steam -boats and other purposes. In the company's
works more than 2400 persons, including miners, are
constantly employed ; and the average annual amount
of the produce of the various iron-works in the district
is estimated at £676,000.
Among the principal mansions are, Woodhall, an
ancient house in good preservation ; Cleland House, a
handsome modern mansion, beautifully situated on the
South Calder ; Carfin and Jerviston, both on the banks
of the same river ; and Lauchope House, an elegant
mansion recently erected; and tastefully embellished.
The village is on the great road from Edinburgh to
Glasgow, and the district is intersected by the roads
from Stirling to Carlisle, and from Edinburgh to Ayr
and Hamilton ; it is inhabited chiefly by persons em-
ployed in the collieries and iron-works. The post has a
daily delivery ; and facility for the conveyance of the
produce of the several works is afforded by the Wishaw
and Coltness railway, which joins the Garnkirk line at
Gartsherrie, and by the Monkland canal. The late
quoad sacra parish of Holytown was about four miles in
length, and of nearly equal breadth, comprising an area
of 12,000 acres, of which one-half are arable, and of the
remainder, about one-third woodland and plantations,
and two-thirds meadow and pasture. The soil is a cold
and tenacious clay, difficult to work, but, from the im-
proved state of husbandry, producing favourable crops,
though not more than sufficient for the supply of the
population. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Hamilton and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. A preaching station was
for some time established in the district, which, within
the last few years, has been replaced by the erection of
a handsome church, containing S30 sittings. The minis-
ter derives his stipend, £80, from the seat-rents and
collections, under the patronage of the male communi-
cants. There is a place of worship for the United Asso-
ciate Synod. District parochial schools are supported
by small endowments, in addition to the fees ; five
schools are maintained by the parties connected with
the several works, in which more than 1000 children
receive instruction ; and three more are about to be
erected by subscription. There are also eight Sabbath
schools ; and to those of Holytown, Newarthill, Chapel-
hall, and Cairnbroe, libraries are attached.
HOLYWOOD, a parish, in the county of Dumfries,
3 miles (N. N. W.) from Dumfries; containing 1061
inhabitants, of whom SI are in the village. It is un-
certain when the present name was first applied to this
parish ; but the Oak forest which once overspread the
ground, and the Druidical temples situated here, leave
no doubt as to its origin. This wood, or forest, ex-
tended, it is supposed, for about eight miles, reaching to
Snaid, in the parish of Glencairn ; and as it was well
known by the early Christian missionaries to have been
546
the retreat of the Druids, some of whose temples are in
the vicinity, the memory of its primitive consecration
was probably transmitted by them, under the name of
Holywood. The ancient abbey of Holywood stood in
the south-east corner of the present burying-ground.
It was founded by Dervorgilla, or Donagilla, daughter
of Allan, lord of Galloway, who died in 1269 ; she was
the mother of John Baliol, declared king of the Scots
by Edward I., in 1292. It was called Monasterium sacri
nemoris, on account of its situation in the grove of oaks j
and its monks were of the Praemonstratensian order -.
among them is said to have been Johannes de Sacro
Bosco, a great mathematician, and author of the book
De Sphcera. This monastery, with that of Whithorn, is
supposed to have sprung from the religious institution
of Souls-seat, near Stranraer, founded by Fergus, lord of
Galloway, early in the twelfth century. The remains of
the abbey, the roof of which was supported by a fine
pointed arch across the middle of the building, were
taken down in 1778, and the materials used for the
erection of the present parish church. The two bells
belonging to the edifice were, however, preserved ; they
are of excellent tone, and are now the parish bells. The
patronage of Holywood formerly belonged to the earls
of Nithsdale, one of whom sold it, in 1714, to Alexander
Ferguson, of Isle, in Kirkmahoe, whose son, Robert,
disposed of it to Robert Ferguson, of Fourmerkland, in
this parish, after which it passed through several hands,
and was purchased, in 1S23, by the late John Crichton,
Esq., of Skeoch. Cowhill, in the parish, was long the
seat of the Maxwells, cadets of the noble family of
Nithsdale. In the year 1560, the old castle was burnt
by the English; and a tower, in lieu, was built in 1579;
but, being obtained by purchase, in 17S3, by G. John-
stone, Esq., a Liverpool merchant, he pulled it down in
order to erect an elegant mansion on its site.
The parish is about ten miles long, and its mean
breadth is one mile and a half; it contains 8960 acres.
It is situated in the most beautiful part of the vale of
Nithsdale, and is bounded on the north-east by Kirk-
mahoe ; on the east by the parish of Dumfries ; on the
south by Terregles, Irongray, and Kirkpatrick-Durham,
in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright ; and on the west and
north by Glencairn and Dunscore. Being in a broad
valley, the surface is flat and low, with the exception of
one range of hills, which, however, are neither abrupt
nor of great height. The lands are watered by the
Nith and Cluden, the latter of which is a famous trout-
stream. The soil in the vicinity of these rivers is a rich
alluvial mould, free from stones : adjacent to this the
earth is light and dry, and rests upon fine sand or
gravel. In some other parts there is a deep strong
loam, very strong, and recumbent upon a tilly subsoil :
although this in its natural state is not so fertile as the
former, yet when drained, limed, and properly wrought,
it becomes much more productive, except in cold and
wet seasons. The hilly ground is somewhat more shal-
low and dry ; it is covered with an ordinary kind of
grass, mixed with heath and harsh weeds. The parish
comprises 7500 acres under tillage, 560 in wood, 360
moss, 300 hill land, 120 meadow, and 120 roads. Both
white and green crops of all kinds are produced, and
the system of husbandry followed is of the most ap-
proved kind. Fine crops of turnips are raised by the
liberal and judicious application of bone-dust manure,
HOPE
H O UN
and are eaten off the ground by the sheep. The, cattle
are mostly the black Galloways ; the cows for the
dairy are of the Ayrshire breed. The hilly tracts are
occupied by the native Scotch sheep j but the English
breed is preferred on the lower grounds, for the superior
quality of the wool. Extensive improvements have been
going on for a considerable time in the different branches
of husbandry, comprising subdivisions of land, good
drainage, the repairing and enlarging of farm-houses,
&c. : indeed, the rental of the parish has been consider-
ably more than doubled since the year 1790. The
rateable annual value of Holywood now amounts to
£7437.
The rocks in the upper part of the parish are the
greywacke ; in the midland district they consist of hard
red freestone and limestone. Boulders, also, of large
and small grained greywacke, conglomerate, and trap,
with several varieties of granite and sienite, are found,
from the weight of a stone to three tons. The parish
has two small villages, viz., Holywood and Cluden. The
facilities of communication are extremely great, about
thirty miles of road being distributed in different direc-
tions throughout the parish, all of which are in excel-
lent condition for travelling. The turnpike-road from
Carlisle to Glasgow, by Dumfries, is carried near the
manse ; and a coach runs upon it to and fro every day.
A coach, also, passes from Dumfries to Glasgow, by
Ayr. At Cluden, within the parish, are some extensive
mills, which are let on lease to the Company of Bakers,
at Dumfries. 16,000 bushels of wheat; 12,000 of oats ;
of barley shelled, 1000 ; and of barley for flour, between
400 and 500 bushels, are produced at the mills every
year. About one mile higher up the Cluden is another
mill, in which barley is ground, flax prepared, and wool
carded. Wool is also spun by machinery, on a small
scale, at Speddoch.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the pres-
bytery of Dumfries and synod of Dumfries ; patron,
James Otto, Esq., of Skeoch. The stipend of the minister
is £204 ; and there is a good manse, with seven acres
of arable land, valued in £10. 10. per annum. The
church was built in 1773, and thoroughly repaired in
1821. It is a neat building with a square tower, and
well adapted for accommodation, but inconveniently
situated, being eight miles distant from a part of the
population : it contains 600 sittings. There are three
parochial schools, in which all the usual branches of
education are taught. The master of the first school
has a salary of £26; the second master has £15, and
the third £10. The total income of the first master is
about £60 ; that of the second and third, between £25
and £30 each. There is also a subscription library,
established fifty years ago, the volumes in which are
chiefly theological. About a quarter of a mile south-
west from the church, are eleven large stones, placed in
an oval form : the number was twelve till within these
few years. They have been universally ascribed to the
Druids ; and the massy size of the stones, the largest of
which weighs twelve tons, excites the astonishment of
all visiters. Mr. Charles Irvine, who, in 1790, discovered
the method of rendering salt water fresh, for which he
was rewarded by government with a grant of £5000,
was connected with the parish.
HOPEMAN, a village, in the parish of Duffus,
county of Elgin, 2^ miles (E. N. E.) from Burgh-Head ;
547
containing 58S inhabitants. This village, also called
Hopeman Harbour, is situated on the shore of the
Moray Frith, and between the ports of Burgh-Head and
Lossiemouth. It is the seat of a considerable fishery,
but, though regularly built, has not been remarkable
hitherto for a cleanly appearance. In 1840, anew and
excellent harbour was completed here, having seventeen
and a half feet of water at spring tides, and five feet at
low water, with an easy entrance of thirty-six feet, at
right angles to the coast, leading from the outer to
the inner harbour, the whole completely sheltered.
Salmon, herrings, and white-fish are the kinds chiefly
taken off this part of the coast. In the village is a small
school.
HORDA, an isle, in the parish of Burray, county of
Orkney. It is one of the smaller isles, lying in the
Pentland Frith, between South Ronaldshay and Swinna ;
and is about, a mile in length and half a mile in breadth,
affording pasturage to cattle and sheep.
HORISDALE, an island, in the parish of Gair-
loch, county of Ross and Cromarty; containing 27
inhabitants.
HORNDEAN, a village, in the parish of Ladykirk,
county of Berwick, 7 miles (W. S. W.) from Berwick;
containing 124 inhabitants. This place consists chiefly
of the Kirktown of the ancient parish of Horndean,
which was annexed, at the Reformation, to the parish
of Ladykirk. It is pleasantly situated on a gentle
acclivity rising from the banks of the river Tweed, and
is inhabited by persons employed in the various handi-
craft trades carried on for the supply of the neighbour-
hood, in the salmon-fishery, and in agriculture.
HOSPITAL-MILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Cults,
district of Cupar, county of Fife ; containing 66 inha-
bitants. It consists of a small group of houses, and of
a mill, formerly a flax, and now a tow mill, in which
are spun about 200 tons of tow annually, valued at
£7000, and for which Dundee is the principal market.
HOUNAM, a parish, in the district of Kelso, county
of Roxburgh, 11 miles (S. S. E.) from Kelso; con-
taining 280 inhabitants, of whom 45 are in the hamlet,
and the remainder in the rural districts of the parish.
This place, of which the name is of doubtful origin, is
not distinguished by any events of historical import-
ance, though, from its situation on the confines of
England, and the remains of numerous forts, it pro-
bably participated in the frequent hostilities of the
border warfare. The parish measures about eight miles
in length and six in mean breadth, and is bounded on
the south-east by the county of Northumberland, in
England. The surface is almost one continued series
of hills, forming part of the Cheviot range, and is
diversified with gentle undulations in some parts, and
in others with small valleys and narrow glens, inter-
vening between the bolder hills. Through these valleys,
the waters of the Kale and Capehope wind for several
miles, along the banks of which are some small tracts
of level land. The highest of the hills is Hounam Law,
which has an elevation of 1464 feet above the level of
the sea ; it is of conical form, and easy of ascent, and
is about nine miles in circumference at the base. The
lower hills vary from 1200 to 1300 feet. The Kale water
has its source in the hills in the parish of Oxnam,
and, taking a northerly course, divides the parish into
two nearly equal parts, and, after a very circuitous pro-
4 A2
HO UN
HOUN
gress, unites with the Capehope near the village, a little
to the westward of which it forms a picturesque cascade,
falling from a rocky precipice. These, and various
smaller streams which flow through the parish, abound
■with excellent trout. There are also numerous springs
of excellent water, and one of medicinal properties, which
is in some repute as a powerful diuretic.
The soil varies greatly in different parts, but is
notwithstanding tolerably fertile, and in the valleys and
lower grounds extremely rich, in the higher lands a
sandy gravel, and in some places moss and heath. The
whole number of acres is estimated at 14,45S ; of these,
about 13,540 are hilly pasture and sheep-walks, 816
acres arable, and 10*2 in wood and plantations. The
crops are, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips ; the sys-
tem of agriculture is advanced ; the lands have been
drained, and considerable portions of waste reclaimed.
The farm-houses, most of which have been rebuilt, are
substantial and commodiously arranged ; those of mo-
dern erection are of stone, and roofed with slate ; and
all the more recent improvements in agricultural im-
plements have been generally adopted. The number of
sheep annually fed on the hilly pastures is about 13,000,
principally of the Cheviot breed, to the improvement
of which much attention is paid ; those on the lower
pastures are of a mixed breed between the Cheviot and
Leicestershire. Above 1600 stones of wool are annually
procured for sale. About seventy milch-cows are kept
on the dairy-farms, and 120 head of young cattle an-
nually reared, chiefly the Ayrshire : few horses are
reared, except for agricultural purposes, and these are
partly of the Lanarkshire, and partly of the English
breeds. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£5171- Wood formerly abounded in some parts, and
there are still scattered remains of ancient forests ; but
the woods have been nearly all cut down, and very few
trees, if any, have been planted in their place. The
plantations are chiefly of recent formation; those of
Chester House have attained considerable growth ; and
the younger plantations at Greenhill, and in the vicinity
of the village, are in a thriving state, and, when mature,
will add greatly to the beauty of the scenery. There
are also some well-grown trees in the hedge-rows, in-
cluding oak, ash, elm, and beech ; and birch, hazel,
alder, and mountain-ash appear to be indigenous to the
soil. The plantations arc mostly plane, Scotch fir, and
larch. The rocks in the parish are principally of por-
phyry formation, and in the cavities are found grey
amethyst, rock-crystal, calcareous spar, quartz, agates,
and jasper ; the two last afford some very beautiful
specimens. The substrata in the lower parts are
chiefly clay, gravel, and sand. Greenhill, the seat of
the Duke of Roxburghe, is a handsome and spacious
mansion, beautifully situated in grounds tastefully laid
out, and embellished with shrubberies and ornamental
plantations.
The hamlet, which is of considerable antiquity, is
pleasingly seated on the eastern bank of the Kale water,
and at the base of a gently rising ground, which gra-
dually terminates in a hill of considerable height ;
it consists of a substantial inn, and a few dwelling-
houses, each of two stories, and all lately rebuilt.
Almost adjoining it, is a neat range of houses which
may be regarded as a continuation of the hamlet.
Fairs are held on the Oxnam side of the parish, on the
54S
31st July and 15th October, for lambs and ewes, and
are well attended. Facility of intercourse with the
market-towns is afforded by various good roads that
pass through the parish, and by handsome and sub-
stantial bridges recently erected over the different
streams, and all of which are kept in excellent repair.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Jedburgh and synod of
Merse and Teviotdale : patron, Sir George Warrender,
Bart. The stipend of the incumbent is about £206 ; the
manse, erected in 1776, and enlarged and repaired in
1832, is a tolerably comfortable residence, and the
glebe comprises about nine acres, valued at £11 per
annum. The church is very ancient, and was formerly
a cruciform structure ; but it has been curtailed in its
proportions, and is at present a plain rectangular
building, adapted for a congregation of not more than
200 persons. The parochial school affords education to
about thirty children ; the master has a salary of £34,
with a house and garden, and the fees average £11.
There are traces of ancient camps in various parts ; the
Roman road called the "Street" passes through the
parish ; and on some rising ground near the village,
overlooking the Kale water, are the remains of an old
fort, which has given the name of Chester House to the
lands on which it is situated. At Hounam-Mains are
distinct traces of a very extensive circular intrench-
ment called the Rings ; likewise part of a circle of up-
right stones, supposed to be Druidical ; and in several
parts of the parish are similar stones, of large dimen-
sions, in detached situations. There are also some
cairns, thought to have been raised over the tombs of
warriors killed in battle.
HOUNDWOOD, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Coldingham, county of Berwick, 6 miles
(W. N. W.) from Ayton ; containing, with the villages of
Auchincraw and Reston, 1334 inhabitants. This dis-
trict, which is situated in the southern portion of Col-
dingham, comprises about 12,000 acres, of which S500
are arable, 300 woodland and plantations, and the re-
mainder meadow, pastm-e, and waste. The surface is
diversified with hills, of which, however, the highest,
Wardlaw Bank, has not an elevation of more than 640
feet above the level of the sea, though commanding
from its summit a splendid view to the east, south, and
west, embracing the German Ocean, the Merse, part of
Roxburghshire, the heights of Lammermoor, and the
Cheviot hills in the distance. The lands are watered
by the small river Eye, which flows for nearly eight
miles through the district, and falls into the sea at
Eyemouth : common trout of excellent quality are found
in abundance. The soil is tolerably fertile, and the
arable grounds are in good cultivation, producing favour-
able crops ; the system of husbandry is improved ; the
lands have been drained and inclosed, and the farm-
houses and offices are substantial and commodious.
The plantations are chiefly oak, elm, birch, and fir ;
they are under good management, and generally in a
thriving state. Renton House, the seat of Sir Samuel
Stirling, Bart., and Houndwood House, the property
and residence of Mrs. Coulson, are the principal man-
sions. In the village of Reston is a small manufactory
for woollen cloths of the coarser kind ; but the popu-
lation of the district is mostly agricultural. The cattle
and sheep bred in the pastures are sent to Ayton, Dunse,
HOUS
II o u s
and Morpeth ; and other agricultural produce chiefly
to Dunbar, Eyemouth, and Berwick. The ecclesiastical
affairs are under the superintendence of the presbytery
of Chirnside and synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and
the patronage is vested in the male communicants : the
stipend of the minister is £87, arising from scat-rents
and collections. A chapel which was erected on the
lands of Renton, in 1794, by the Renton family, and in
which divine service was performed by a minister of
their endowment, has been closed since the opening of
the present church in 1836. The church is a handsome
Structure in the Grecian style of architecture, and con-
tains 500 sittings, of which twenty are free ; it was
built by subscription, at a cost of £800, towards which
£16?. 10. were contributed from the General Assembly's
funds. The chapel at Renton is, however, still in good
repair. There are a parochial school, and a school sup-
ported by subscription. Formerly, numerous remains
existed of strongholds, of which that of Houndwood
was the seat of the prior of Coldingham.
HOUSTON and KILLALLAN, a parish, in the
Upper ward of the county of Renfrew ; including the
village of Crosslee and part of the late quoad sacra dis-
trict of Bridge-of-Weir, and containing "2818 inhabit-
ants, of whom 623 are in the village of Houston, 14
miles (S. \V.) from Glasgow. This place consists of
two parishes which were united in the year 1760, when
the population in both of them was scarcely more than
one-third of the present number. The principal resi-
dent proprietor is W. M. Fleming, Esq., whose ancestor,
Peter Fleming, held the estate of Barochan, in this
parish, and being celebrated for his skill in falconry,
received from James IV. the hood of his favourite hawk,
richly studded with gems, as a reward for his dexterity,
which hood, though many of the jewels have been lost,
and among them a ruby of great value, is still preserved
in the house at Barochan, the residence of his descend-
ant. The parish of Houston is supposed to have
derived its name from Hugo de Padvinan, who obtained
a grant of the barony of Kelpeter from Baldwin, sheriff
of Lanark, and who substituted his own name for that
by which the barony had been previously called. The
name of the other parish is thought to be a corruption
of Killfillan, an appellation said to have been obtained
from Fillanus, its tutelary saint.
The united parish is about six miles in length and
three in breadth, and is bounded on the north and east
by the parish of Erskine ; on the south, by the river
Gryfe, which separates it from the parish of Kilbar-
chan ; and on the west by the parish of Kilmalcolm.
The river Gryfe has its source in the upland moors and
high hills between Kilmalcolm and Largs, the latter
place situated on the coast of the Frith of Clyde ; and,
augmented by numerous streams which meet near Du-
chal, it enters the parish, and pursues a rapid course
towards the low lands at Fulwood, in which it is preci-
pitated over several rocky heights. Thence it winds its
way into the Clyde, first receiving the river Black Cart
at Walkinshaw, and the White Cart near the bridge of
Inchinnan. The surface is irregular, and in many parts
beautifully diversified. In the lands of Houston is an
extensive wood, consisting chiefly of oak, ash, birch,
and plane trees, of which many are of venerable growth ;
there is a similar wood of natural growth, and exten-
sive and thriving plantations, at Barochan. The high
549
grounds in the district of Killallan, likewise, are largely
planted with oak, ash, beech, and Scotch fir ; and the
mosses have been covered with trees which appear to
be thriving well. Agriculture forms but a secondary
pursuit in the parish, and comparatively only a small
portion of land is in cultivation ; the greater number of
the inhabitants being employed in the various manufac-
tures which have been established. Improvements have,
notwithstanding, been made in draining the grounds,
and many of the mosses have been reclaimed, and pro-
duce abundant crops ; the farm-buildings are substan-
tial and commodious, and are all roofed with slate.
The scarcity of common manure has led to the intro-
duction of a compost of moss prepared with oil, which,
under proper management, has been found to answer
well. The substratum is chiefly clay, covered in some
parts with moss six feet in depth ; in the higher dis-
tricts, granite of good quality is prevalent ; and in the
lower parts, sandstone and limestone are quarried.
Coal exists in abundance ; and mines have been opened
for the supply of the extensive works in the parish, and
for fuel in the neighbouring places. Barochan, the
patrimonial seat of Mr. Fleming, is of considerable an-
tiquity, and has recently undergone great improve-
ments ; it is beautifully situated, and embellished with
ornamental plantations, forming a conspicuous feature
in the landscape. A subscription library has been esta-
blished in the village of Houston. Fairs are held in
May, chiefly for milch-cows, young cattle, and for
others, of the Highland breed. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £11,293.
The chief manufacture is that of cotton, for which
several extensive mills have been erected, mostly on the
banks of the Gryfe. The principal are the New mills,
near the Bridge of Weir, in the district of Killallan,
erected in 1792, and at present conducted by Messrs.
Findlay ; they contain 6240 mule spindles, and are
driven by a water-wheel thirteen feet in diameter, with
power equal to that of twelve horses, and afford employ-
ment to nearly 100 persons. The mill at Gryfe grove,
erected in 1822, contains nearly 1000 mule spindles,
and 500 for water-twist, with the requisite machinery,
set in motion by a water-wheel of cast-iron, of twelve
feet diameter, and giving occupation to about forty per-
sons : adjoining is a mill erected by the same proprie-
tor, for carding wool. A mill has also been erected by
Mr. Shanks, in which are 1400 spindles, driven likewise
by an iron water-wheel twelve feet in diameter. Gryfe
mill, to the east of the Bridge-of-Weir mill, and belong-
ing to Messrs. John Freeland, and Co., was built in 1793,
and contains 1S,000 spindles; it is set in motion by a
water-wheel nineteen feet in diameter, and employs
nearly 300 persons. Crosslee mill, conducted by Messrs.
Stevenson and Sons, is driven by a wheel of cast-iron,
twenty-six feet in diameter, and equivalent to seventy-
horse power ; it affords constant employment to 300
people. Houston cotton-mills, situated on the burn of
that name, and built in 1793, is driven by a wheel of
eighteen-hox-se power, about thirty feet in diameter,
and employs 140 persons : attached to this mill is a
steam-engine, by which the machinery is set in motion
when the water of the stream is insufficient for that
purpose. Houston bleachfield, on the same rivulet,
belonging to Messrs. Carlisle, is an extensive establish-
ment, chiefly employed for the manufacturers of Glas-
HOY
H U M E
gow and Paisley : about 4000 pounds of cotton and
60,000 pounds of linen-yarn and thread, and about
12,000 pounds of raw silk, are annually bleached in
this establishment, in which fifty persons are engaged.
The parish is in the presbytery of Paisley and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr, and patronage of Alexander Speirs,
Esq. The minister's stipend is £264, with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £13. 10. per annum. The church,
erected in 3775, is conveniently situated ; it is in good
repair, and is adapted for a congregation of S00 per-
sons. The members of the Free Church have a place
of worship ; and there is a Roman Catholic chapel. The
parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £34, with £24
fees, and a house and garden.
HOWGATE, a hamlet, in the parish of Penicuick,
county of Edinburgh, 2 miles (S. S. E.) from Peni-
cuick ; containing SI inhabitants. It lies on the high
road from Libberton to Dumfries ; and in its neigh-
bourhood are several fine streams, of which some are
tributaries to the Esk. A Secession meeting-house was
built here in 1750.
HOWIESHILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Cambus-
jlang, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 2^ miles
{S. E. by E.) from Rutherglen ; containing 62 inhabit-
ants. It is situated on the road from Rutherglen to
Hamilton, and is one of the numerous hamlets in the
parish, and a short distance east of Cambusland.
HOWWOOD, a village, in the parish of Lochwin-
noch, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 2| miles
(S. W.) from Johnstone ; containing 252 inhabitants.
It is seated in the north-eastern part of the parish, and
on the road from Lochwinnoch to Johnstone, which
runs nearly parallel with the Ardrossan and Johnstone
canal. The village is neatly built, though of small
extent, and consists principally of detached houses and
cottages inhabited by persons engaged in cotton-mills
and in agriculture. A school has been established, the
master of which has a good house and garden rent-free,
and occasionally a donation, which is raised by volun-
tary contribution of the inhabitants : his principal in-
come, however, arises from the fees. A friendly society,
also, has long been formed, and has acquired ample
funds.
HOY, an island, in the county of Orkney ; con-
taining I486 inhabitants, of whom 1153 are in the
parish of Walls and Flotta, and the remainder in that
of Hoy and Grasmsay. See the articles on those two
parishes.
HOY and GRjEMSAY, a parish, in the county of
Orkney, 2§ miles (S.) from Stromness; containing
547 inhabitants, of whom 214 are in the island of
Graemsay. This parish, which is chiefly situated in the
island of Hoy, the principal of the South Orkney isles,
is bounded on the north by the Sound of Hoy, which
separates it from the parish of Stromness, in the main
land ; on the east, by the bay of Scalpa, in which is the
small island of Graemsay ; on the south and south-east,
by the parish of Walls ; and on the west, by the Atlan-
tic Ocean. That part of the parish which is in the isle
of Hoy is about nine miles in extreme length, and six
miles in breadth. The surface is boldly elevated, form-
ing the highest ground in the whole island, from which
circumstance it is supposed to have derived its name ;
and the lands are chiefly marked by three lofty hills,
ranged in triangular form, of which that to the north-
550
east rises from a broad base to the height of 1200 feet
above the level of the sea. The soil along the shores of
Hoy is a rich loam, and in other parts peat, alternated
with clay. The greater portion of the land is covered
with heath, affording pasture to many flocks of sheep
which roam at large : in the husbandry of what is ara-
ble very little improvement has been made. The sce-
nery, for want of timber, has a dreary aspect, relieved,
however, in some parts by small valleys, intersecting
the hills, and watered by numerous rivulets, of which
the banks are ornamented with a few shrubs and wild-
flowers. The hills abound with Alpine plants ; and
there are several deep glens, in whicb the sound of the
voice, or the report of a musket, is re-echoed by repeated
reverberations. A rock on the brink of a valley, called
the Dwarfie- stone, has been excavated into three dis-
tinct apartments ; in one of these is something resem-
bling a bed, and between this and a smaller apartment is
a recess apparently intended as a fire-place, with a hole
cut in the roof to emit the smoke. The whole mass
is of sandstone, about thirty-two feet in length, seven-
teen feet in breadth, and seven and a half feet in height.
Veins of iron and lead ore have been discovered ; and
the latter, on analysis, was found to contain a consider-
able proportion of silver ; and some grains of gold have
also been met with.
The island of Graemsay, which is separated from the
rest of the parish by a sound about a mile in breadth, is
a beautiful spot, a mile and a half in length and a mile
broad. Its surface is level, and covered with verdure
affording luxuriant pasturage ; the soil is fertile, and
that portion of the land which is arable produces rich
crops of grain : the substratum throughout is clay-
slate, which is wrought for roofing. Cod, ling, and
other fish are found in abundance off the coast ; and
seven boats belonging to the parish are regularly em-
ployed in the herring-fishery, during the season. The
ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence of
the presbytery of Cairston and synod of Orkney. The
minister's stipend is £150, to which are added £8. 6. S.
for communion elements, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £8 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Zetland.
There are two churches, both in good repair. The
church of Hoy was built towards the close of the last
century, and that of Graemsay was thoroughly repaired
about the year 1810; they contain each 182 sittings.
Divine service is performed every third Sunday at
Graemsay ; and on the two others the inhabitants
attend the church at Hoy. The parochial school at
Hoy is well attended ; the master has a salary of £26,
with a house and garden, and the fees are about £2 per
annum. A school in Grsemsay is supported by the So-
ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge. Among the
precipices on the coast is a massive lofty insulated
pillar which, from a fancied resemblance, is called the
" Old Man of Hoy ;" it is conspicuously seen from the
Caithness coast.
HULMITRAY, an isle, in the parish of Harris,
county of Inverness. This is one of the smaller isles
of the Hebrides, and is situated in the Sound of Harris,
and a short distance to the north-east of the island of
North Uist.
HUMBIE, county of Haddington. — See Keith and
Humbie.
HUME. — See Stitchell, county of Roxburgh.
HUNT
HUNT
' HUNA, a township, in the parish of Canisbay,
county of Caithness, 19 miles (N.) from Wick; con-
taining 111 inhabitants. This place is situated on the
shore of the Pentland Frith, and consists, in its western
part, from Huna Inn to Gill's bay, of one of the most
fertile districts in the parish, and eastward to Duncans-
bay burn, of moss, which prevails to the very brink of
the Frith. The parochial church stands on an eminence
close by the shore, and the manse is built about a quar-
ter of a mile, inland, from it : the tall white spire of the
former is an excellent landmark at sea. Here is a
post-office, from which the mail-boat with the Orkney
bags crosses the Frith three times a week, the distance
to the landing-place in Orkney being about twelve miles.
Edwin, King of Scotland, fought an army of Orkney-
men at Huna, and signally defeated them.
HUNDA, an island, forming part of the parish of
St. Peter in South Ron aldshay, south isles of Orkney,
and containing 6 inhabitants. It lies in Scalpa Flow, to
the north of Ronaldshay, and west of the isle of Burray ;
and is of small extent.
HUNIE, an isle, in the parish of Unst, county of
Shetland. This is a very small islet, lying on the
east side of the isle of Unst, and a short distance from
Balta.
HUNTERFIELD, a village, in the parish of Cock-
pen, county of Edinburgh ; containing 90 inhabit-
ants.
HUNTHILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Blantyre,
Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 3-§ miles (W. N.
W.) from Hamilton ; containing 60 inhabitants. It is
situated on the western borders of the parish, and nearly
adjoins the village of Blantyre, in the manufactures and
works connected with which the population is partly
engaged.
HUNTLY, a burgh of barony and a parish, in the
district of Strathbogie, county of Aberdeen, 39 miles
(N. W.) from Aberdeen, and 145 (N. by E.) from Edin-
burgh ; containing 3642 inhabitants, of whom 2731 are
in the burgh. This place, including the united parishes
of Dumbennan and Kinoir, anciently formed part of the
ample possessions of the powerful family of the Cumyns,
of whose baronial seat, Strathbogie Castle, there are still
considerable remains. During the contested succession
to the throne of Scotland after the death of Alexander
III., the Cumyns, who were the adherents of Edward I.
of England, were nearly extirpated by the Gordons,
upon whom Robert Bruce conferred the castle and lands
of Strathbogie, in reward of their important services.
The castle was almost destroj^ed after the battle of
Glenlivet, in 1594, but was restored, with considerable
additions, by the first Marquess of Huntly, in 1602,
and, under the name of Huntly Castle, was the seat of
the head of the Gordon family till their removal to
Fochabers, when it became the residence of the Mar-
quess of Huntly, eldest son of the Duke of Gordon, and
so continued for a time. On the death of George, the
fifth duke, in 1836, without issue, the dukedom of
Gordon became extinct; but the Marquessate of Huntly,
his second title, descended to his kinsman, the Earl of
Aboyne. The late duke's heir of entail, the Duke of
Richmond, is, with the exception only of the estate of
Avochy, the present proprietor of all the lands.
The town, which derives its name from its founders,
the family of Gordon, is beautifully situated on a penin-
551
sula, near the confluence of the rivers Doveran and
Bogie, over the former of which is an ancient bridge of
one spacious arch, and over the latter a substantial
bridge of three arches. The streets are regularly formed,
intersecting each other at right angles ; and in the centre
is a noble square, surrounded with handsome houses,
some of which are of very elegant appearance. The
town is well paved, and lighted with gas ; and the in-
habitants are amply supplied •with water. There are
several libraries, of which the chief are, the Farmers'
Agricultural library, an evangelical subscription library,
and a circulating library ; and there is also a reading-
room, supplied with public journals and periodical
publications. The environs abound with picturesque
scenery, enlivened by numerous villas, and derive much
interest from the venerable ruins of the ancient castle,
and the beautiful grounds of Huntly lodge, on the oppo-
site bank of the Doveran. The linen manufacture was
formerly carried on here to a very great extent, but,
since the termination of the war, has very much de-
clined ; and at present, not more than forty weavers
are employed, for the wholesale houses of Aberdeen,
and a few in the weaving of damask. There are a
bleach-field upon a moderate scale, and a tannery and
distillery in full operation ; the usual handicraft trades
for the supply of the neighbouring district afford em-
ployment to many of the inhabitants, and there are
numerous shops supplied with merchandise of various
kinds. From its situation on the principal road from
Aberdeen to Inverness, the town has a considerable
degree of traffic. The post-office has a daily delivery;
and there are branches of the North of Scotland, the
Town and County, and the Aberdeen banks, for the first
of which a handsome building has been erected in the
square. A market is held on Thursday, which is amply
supplied with grain, and numerously attended by dealers
from different parts of the country ; and fairs, chiefly
for cattle and horses, are held monthly, of which those
at Whitsuntide and Martinmas are also for hiring ser-
vants. Facility of communication is afforded by good
turnpike-roads, of which that from Aberdeen to Inver-
ness passes through the town, that to Banff through
the north-east, and one to Portsoy through the north-
ern, district of the parish. The town was erected into
a free burgh of barony by charter of James III., granted
to George, second earl of Huntly ; and is governed by
a baron bailie, appointed by the superior, but whose
jurisdiction extends only to the removal of obstructions
in the public streets and thoroughfares.
The parishes of Dumbennan and Kinoir were united
in 17'27, and, in honour of the eldest son of the Duke
of Gordon, called Huntly. The united parish is about
ten miles in length, and four miles in breadth. The
surface is diversified with hills of moderate height,
which surround the town on all sides, and of which the
hill of Kinoir, in the immediate vicinity, consisting of
several thousand acres, has been recently planted by
the Duke of Richmond, at an expense of nearly £3000.
The rivers are the Doveran and the Bogie. The Dove-
ran has its source in the hills of Cabrach, and, flowing
through the parish in a north-easterly direction, re-
ceives the waters of the Bogie. The Bogie rises in the
parish of Auchindoir, and forms the boundary between
this parish and that of Drumblade for two or three
miles. Both these rivers abound with trout, and salmon
H U N T
HUTC
are also found in the Doveran. The quantity of land
which is arable cannot be precisely determined, but
there is little waste capable of improvement : the soil,
though various, and consisting chiefly of clay, moss,
and gravel, is tolerably fertile ; and the chief crops are
oats, barley, and bear. The hills afford good pasture
for cattle, of which considerable numbers are reared,
and sent to the English markets ; but few sheep are
bred in the parish. The system of husbandry has been
improved under the auspices of an agricultural society
of which the Duke of Richmond is patron, and which
holds annual meetings in the town for the distribution
of prizes, when a cattle show takes place. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £7 "45. The plantations
consist chiefly of birch, elm, oak, larch, and Scotch and
spruce firs, all of which are carefully managed, and in a
thriving state. The rocks are generally of granite and
whinstone : limestone has been quarried, though it is
of inferior quality, and very difficult to work with any
prospect of advantage ; and ironstone and plumbago
have been also found. Huntly Lodge, the seat of the
Dowager Duchess of Gordon, was formerly a shooting-
box belonging to the dukes, by one of whom, about
1830, it was enlarged and greatly improved as a resi-
dence. It is an elegant mansion, beautifully situated
in a demesne embellished with plantations, and taste-
fully laid out in walks, and enlivened by the rivers
Doveran and Bogie, which unite within the grounds.
Avochy House, the seat of John Gordon, Esq., is a
pleasant residence, within the grounds of which are
some slight remains of the ancient castle of Avochy.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Strathbogie and synod of
Mora)'. The minister's stipend is £1S5. 13. 9., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £'25 per annum ; patron,
the Duke of Richmond. The old church, situated in
the centre of the town, is a spacious plain structure,
erected in 1S05, at a cost of £'2600, and containing
1S00 sittings. The new church, erected in 1841, at an
expense of £1400, is also in the town, and contains
1 100 sittings ; the duty is performed by a missionary,
appointed by the General Assembly, and who has a
stipend of £100, derived chiefly from the seat-rents.
There are places of worship for members of the Free
Church, the United Secession, and Independents ; also
an episcopalian, and a Roman Catholic chapel, the latter
a handsome structure in the later English style. The
parochial school is well attended ; the master has a
salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees
average £60. He also receives £30 per annum from
the Dick bequest. The school is held in a building
erected by the Duchess Dowager of Gordon, in which
are also held a school connected with the new church,
and supported by subscription, and an infant and a
sewing school, of which the mistresses receive salaries
from the duchess. A dispensary is maintained ; and
there are several friendly societies, and a savings' bank
in the town, in which are deposits amounting to £3644.
The remains of the castle consist partly of those of the
ancient castle of Strathbogie, of which the chief portion
is a large circular tower, now in ruins ; and partly of
the restorations of Huntly Castle, which also are greatly
dilapidated. The whole forms a venerable pile of ruins,
romantically situated on the bank of the Doveran, near
the bridge.
552
HURLET, a village, in the Abbey parish of the
town of Paisley, Upper ward of the county of Ren-
frew, 3 miles (S. E.) from Paisley ; containing 2S7 in-
habitants. The village and the adjacent hamlets are
inhabited chiefly by colliers, and others employed in the
extensive mineral works carried on in the district. The
immediate neighbourhood abounds with coal, which has
been wrought for more than three centuries; and iron-
stone is found in great abundance, in the procuring of
which alone about 100 men are at present constantly
engaged. The manufacture of copperas was introduced
into Scotland by a company from Liverpool, who esta-
blished their works at this place ; and a similar con-
cern was formed at Nitshill, in the vicinity, in 1S07, by
a company who subsequently purchased the works at
Hurlet, which they converted into a manufactory for
alum. Large quantities of muriate of potash and sul-
phate of ammonia are also produced, and conveyed to
Glasgow and Paisley by canal, and by the Hurlet rail-
way. The produce of the mines and mineral works in
the district, in a recent year, was, 42,554 tons of coal,
4931 tons of limestone, 5701 tons of aluminus schistus,
1200 tons of alum, and 300 tons of copperas ; the num-
ber of men employed was 5S0. To remedy the distress
to which the miners and others are subject, from the
frequent occurrence of accidents in their dangerous em-
ployments, a friendly society has been established; and
about! 100 children of the workmen attend a school
in the neighbourhood, where they are taught reading,
writing, and arithmetic, and, on the Sabbath, receive
religious instruction. The villages of Corsemill and
Dovecothall, in the vicinity, are chiefly inhabited by
persons employed in the bleaching and print fields on
the banks of the river Levern; and several are occupied
in the extensive cotton-mills at Barrhead, in the adjoin-
ing parish of Neilston.
HURLFORD, a village, in the parish of Riccarton,
district of Kyle, county of Ayr, l£ mile (E. S. E.) from
Kilmarnock; containing 371 inhabitants. This place
is seated on the south bank of the river Irvine, over
which is a good and substantial bridge, that has lately
undergone extensive alteration and repair. The popu-
lation is chiefly engaged in the coal-works in operation
in the parish. The great high-road from Ayr to Edin-
burgh intersects the village. There is a school, of which
the master has a free house and garden, and for which
the ground was given by the Duke of Portland.
HUTCHESONTON, a town, in the parish and
barony of Gorbals, within the jurisdiction of Glasgow,
county of Lanark ; containing 3559 inhabitants. This
place, which forms one of the principal suburbs of the
city, is situated to the south of the Clyde, on land ori-
ginally in the parish of Govan, purchased in 1647 by
the corporation of Hutcheson's hospital. The town was
commenced in 1794, and consists of several spacious
and well-formed streets, intersecting each other at right
angles ; the houses are generally from three to four
stories in height, and are tolerably well built of stone,
and roofed with slate. The whole is well lighted with
gas, and amply supplied with water. The inhabitants
had formerly facility of communication with the city of
Glasgow by a bridge over the Clyde, which was scarcely
completed when it was swept away by an inundation of
the river, in 1795. The loss of this bridge greatly re-
tarded the progress of the town ; and it was not till the
H U T T
II U T T
year 1S29 that the foundation-stone of a new one, on
the same site, was laid by the preceptor of the hospital.
The present bridge is a handsome structure of five arches,
from a design by Mr. Robert Stevenson, civil engineer ;
and is 406 feet in length, and thirty-six feet wide within
the parapets.
The population are partly employed in the cotton
manufacture, weaving both by power and hand looms,
and in different branches of the linen trade. A very
extensive factory for weaving stripes and checks for
furniture, various fabrics for women's dresses, shirtings,
and other articles, was established here by Messrs.
Somerville and sons. There are also some foundries
and iron-works, of which the most important are those
of Mr. W. Dixon, who has erected several hot-blast fur-
naces on the principle of Neilson's patent, in which
about 4000 tons of pig-iron are annually produced. The
greater portion of the town was included within the late
ecclesiastical district of Hutchesonton, separated from
the parish by act of the General Assembly. That arrange-
ment, however, has been set aside ; and a congregation
of members of the Free Church now rent, the church,
a plain but elegant structure, erected in 1839, at a
cost of £'2600, by the Church Building Society, and
containing more than 1000 sittings. The members of
the Relief have also a place of worship. A school-house,
capable of receiving 650 children, has been built by
subscription, aided by a grant from government ; in-
struction is afforded upon very moderate terms. There
are likewise Sunday schools for children of both sexes,
all well attended. ,
HUTTON, a parish, in the county of Berwick,
6 miles (W. by N.) from Berwick-upon-Tweed ; contain-
ing, with the village of Paxton, 1133 inhabitants. The
parish of Hutton was enlarged in the year 1614, by the
annexation of the neighbouring parish of Fishwick ;
and these two districts form the parish as it at present
exists. Hutton, which lies near the Whiteadder river,
is supposed to have derived its name from the situation
of its village in a hollow, whence the term How-town,
corrupted into Hutton. Fishwick, which is on the banks
of the Tweed, is generally thought to have derived its
name from the avocations of its inhabitants as fishermen :
the ruins of its church were not long ago still visible.
From a diary of the progress of Edward I. through
Scotland, it seems probable that he encamped in this
locality on the 29th of March, 1'296, the day preceding
that on which he took the town of Berwick. It appears
that Hatton, or Haitden, was the place where he rested
with his army the day after he left Coldstream ; and as
this parish lies in the direct line of his march to Ber-
wick from Coldstream, where he crossed the Tweed on
the 2Sth of March, it is concluded that it must be the
spot there referred to.
The parish, which resembles in figure an irregular
triangle, is about four miles long and three broad, and
contains 5261 acres. It is bounded on the north by the
parishes of Chirnside, Foulden, and Mordington, from
which it is separated by the Whiteadder river; it has
the Tweed on the south, the parish of Berwick on the
east, Edrom on the west, and Whitsome and Ladykirk
on the south-west. The surface presents one continued
flat, with the exception of the ground on the banks of
the Tweed and Whiteadder, which, being diversified
with gentle elevations, relieves the tame and uninterest-
Vol. I. — 553
ing scenery in the other parts of the parish. The height
of these elevations, however, above the sea seldom ex-
ceeds 150 feet. The soil near the rivers is a rich deep
loam, resting upon sandstone, and exceedingly fertile,
producing heavy crops. The ground in the middle of
the parish is of an inferior quality, being thin, wet, and
moorish, and rests upon a tenacious clayey subsoil. A
tract of this description, about a mile broad, commences
here, and runs from east to west, to the extremity of
the county ; while on each side of it the earth is rich
and productive. The parish comprises 4950 acres either
cultivated or occasionally in tillage. Above sixty acres
on the banks of the rivers, being too steep for the opera-
tions of the plough, remain for the most part in natural
pasture, part of which is of very superior quality. About
250 acres are under wood, consisting of ash, elm, plane,
oak, beech, and all the varieties of fir. This department
of rural economy claims much of the attention of the
proprietors, especially on the estates of Broad Meadows,
Paxton, and Fishwick, where the plantations are in a
state of rapid progression. The lands are considered
most suitable to wheat, though excellent crops of tur-
nips are produced, as well as of grain of all kinds. The
farm-buildings and offices are in general neat and con-
venient ; and nearly the whole of the grounds are in-
closed with good thorn hedges. Improvements in every
department of husbandry have, indeed, been carried on
for many years past. Sandstone of various kinds is the
prevailing rock : on the estate of Hutton Hall is a stra-
tum of very fine gypsum. The rateable annual value of
the parish is £10,446.
There are several mansion-houses, of which Hutton
Hall is the most ancient and remarkable. It is situated
on an eminence near the Whiteadder, and appears to
have been originally a square tower, constructed princi-
pally for observation and security, to which many sub-
sequent additions have been made, to accommodate it to
the usages of modern times. The mansion of Paxton
was built about eighty years ago, of dark sandstone ;
the front, is massive and commanding, and the house is
enlivened by the passage of the river Tweed on the south-
east. The apartments are elegant and commodious, and
a very valuable collection of paintings enriches the man-
sion. Broad-Meadows is constructed of fine white free-
stone, and is a modern building in the Grecian style of
architecture. The scenery in the vicinity of these resi-
dences is interesting, and in some parts beautiful, espe-
cially near Paxton. Not far from the last-named place
are Spittal House and Tweed Hill, the latter of which
stands on the Tweed, in the vicinity of the Union chain-
bridge. The population is almost entirely agricultural;
their chief communication is with the town of Berwick.
There is a manufactory for bricks and tiles on the estate
of Paxton, where large quantities of the latter are pro-
duced for drainage. Three corn-mills are also in opera-
tion in the parish, the produce of which, consisting of
flour, meal, and pearl-barley, is exported from Berwick
to London. Upon that part of the Tweed forming the
boundary line of the parish are four or five fishing-sta-
tions ; upwards of twenty men are employed, and con-
siderable quantities of trout, salmon, and grilse are
caught, which are packed in ice at Berwick, and des-
patched to the London market.
Two turnpike roads pass through the parish, one
leading from Berwick to Dunse, and the other from
4 B
HUTT
HUTT
Berwick to Kelso, by Swinton ; on each there is a con-
siderable traffic. The lines of turnpike road are about
ten miles, and the parish roads of equal extent. About
two miles and a half from the village of Hutton, and six
from Berwick, is the iron suspension-bridge over the
Tweed, erected in 1S20, and by which many serious
accidents, and the loss of lives have been prevented. It
is 361 feet in length, and of one hundred tons weight of
malleable iron ; the whole expense was between £7000
and £8000. Another bridge has been lately erected,
across the Whiteadder, uear Hutton Mill, connecting the
parish with Foulden, and also opening a facility of com-
munication with the sea-port of Eyemouth, the only
one in the county. The ecclesiastical affairs are
directed by the presbytery of Chirnside and synod of
Merse and Teviotdale, and the patronage is vested in
the Crown: the stipend of the minister is £236, with
a manse, built fifty years ago, and enlarged and repaired
in 1822. There are two glebes, one of which is in
Hutton, and the other in Fishwick, amounting together
to about thirteen acres, valued at £30 per annum. The
present church, erected in 1S34, is remarkably neat in
its external appearance, and accommodates, in a plain
manner, but commodiously, above 600 persons. There
is a parochial school, in which Latin, mathematics, and
all the usual branches of education are taught : the
master has a salary of £34, with the fees and a house.
The parish also has two small parochial libraries, a
friendly society, and an agricultural association, the
last designed chiefly to promote improvements in the
art of ploughing. Dr. Andrew Foreman, Bishop of
Moray, Archbishop of Bourges in France, and after-
wards Archbishop of St. Andrew's, and who flourished
at the beginning of the 16th century, was a native of the
parish.
HUTTON and CORRIE, a parish, in the county of
Dumfries, 7 miles (N. N. E.) from Lockerbie ; con-
taining 809 inhabitants. The name of Hutton appears
to be derived from the term Holt, signifying an elevated
piece of ground or a mound of earth, from some mounds
of artificial construction in the district, used in ancient
times as seats of deliberation, and for the administra-
tion of justice. Corrie, which was joined to Hutton
soon after the Reformation, derives its appellation from
a rivulet which runs through it, and the name of which,
in the Gaelic language, signifies " a narrow glen," the
stream issuing from a glen. On the farm of Closs, in
the parish, are some remains of a place called Maskersa,
where the Grahams, of Gillesbie, formerly had their
residence, but from which they removed, more than 300
years ago, to a tower on the brink of the Dryfe, which
was a fortress of great strength, surrounded by a fosse.
Of this family the descendants still retain property in
the neighbourhood. It was in the .tower of Gillesbie
that the first president of the court of session was for
a time confined, when taken away to prevent his giving
a decision in a suit in which one of the parties thought
he had too much influence.
The parish extends twelve miles in length, from
north-west to south-east, and the average breadth is
about three miles ; it contains nearly 23,000 acres. It
is bounded on the north-east by the ridge of hills which
divides Annandale from Eskdale ; on the south-east by
the water of Milk, which separates Corrie from the
parish of Tundergarth ; and on the north and west by
554
the parishes of Wamphray, Applegarth, and Dryfesdale.
The general aspect of the country is diversified with an
agreeable variety of scenery. Towards the north the
hills are covered with verdure, and the banks of the
Dryfe with wood, the effect of which is considerably
heightened by the course of the stream, which runs
over a gravelly, and frequently a rocky, bottom. In
the approach to the Milk, the view is somewhat similar ;
but the features of the landscape are less marked and
prominent. On the heights between these two waters,
the scene is reversed, and becomes bleak and rugged.
The soil in some places is mixed with a fine gravel, and
in others with good clay ; in the high lands it is mossy
or moorish. About 3000 acres of land are occasionally
cultivated ; the remaining 20,000 have not been ploughed
within the last fifty years. Much of this ground was
formerly in tillage ; but the consolidation of the small
farms has led to the conversion of a considerable quan-
tity of ploughed land into pasture. All kinds of white
and green crops are raised, with the exception of wheat ;
and the system of husbandry followed is adapted to
the improved state of agriculture. About two-thirds of
the lands are employed as sheep pasture in nine or ten
regular breeding farms, keeping about 10,000 sheep,
which are wholly Cheviots, except 600 or 700 of the
black-faced breed. The cattle, which are also of supe-
rior quality, and much attended to, are of the black
Galloway breed. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £5300. The communication of the people is
chiefly with Dumfries, seventeen miles distant. The
roads were formerly in bad condition ; but they have
been entirely re-constructed within the last thirty years :
they consist partly of two lines, one of which leads
from Dumfries towards Hawick, and the other from
Moffatt towards Langholm and Carlisle. There are
bridges over the Dryfe, Corrie, and Milk, which, as well
as the roads, are kept in good repair.
The ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the pres-
bytery of Lochmaben and synod of Dumfries ; patrons,
the Johnstone family, of Annandale. The stipend of
the minister is £241, with a manse, built in 1S03, and
since enlarged and improved, and a glebe of above
thirty-five acres, worth £25 per annum. The church
is situated near the Dryfe, equidistant from the north-
eastern and southern extremities of the parish ; it is in
good repair, and accommodates 312 persons with sit-
tings. There is a parochial school situated in the
Hutton division of the parish, where the classics, ma-
thematics, and French, with the usual branches of
education, are taught. The master has a house and
garden, with a salary of £27, and about £20 fees ; he has
also two-thirds of the interest of £260, bequeathed in
1802, by Mr. James Graham, a native of the parish, for
teaching poor children reading, writing, and arithmetic.
There is another parochial school at Corrie, which has
been for a considerable time endowed with a bequest by
Mr. Edward Moffatt, of Exeter, consisting of the in-
terest of £280, for teaching the children of this division
of the parish reading and writing. In 1S20, Col. James
Wilson, grand-nephew of the founder, added £20 per
annum to the salary, on condition of the master teaching
the children arithmetic, and that the school should be
considered as endowed, he and his heirs appointing the
master. The heritors of Corrie have for some time paid
the master about £16 a year; and besides a house and
1 N C II
INCH
garden, he has five acres of good pasture ground. The
same branches of instruction are taught as in the school
at Hutton. The relics of antiquity consist of the
remains of several old intrenchments of a circular
form, called British forts, and of a rectangular one at
Carter-town, which was a Roman camp, and is sup-
posed to have been a post of communication between
Annandale and Eskdale, where the Romans had several
stations.
IBRIS, or EYEBROUGHY, an isle, in the parish
of Dirleton, county of Haddington. This islet lies
close to the main land of the parish, in the Frith of
Forth, and is of small extent, and very narrow. The
isle of Fidrey, also appertaining to Dirleton, is distant
about a mile east-north-east from Ibris.
ICOLMKILL, county of Argyll. — See Iona.
ILLARY, an island, in the parish of North Uist,
county of Inverness; containing 80 inhabitants. It
is one of the Hebrides, lying westward of North Uist ;
and is three miles in length, and in most places one and
a half in breadth. The soil is partly sandy, and partly
a black loam, yielding tolerable crops of barley, and
some pasture for cattle. Illary is of insular appearance
only at the flow of the tide.
INCH, a parish, in the county of Wigton, 2^ miles
(E.) from Stranraer ; containing, with the hamlets of
Aird, Cairnryan, and Lochans, 2950 inhabitants. This
place, which is of great antiquity, and distinguished for
its lochs, appears to have derived its name from an
island in the loch of Castle- Kennedy, which was called
the Inch, an appellation corrupted from the Celtic word
Inis or Ynis, signifying " an island." The locdity, in.
very ancient times, was occupied by the Novantes, whose
town of Rerigonium was situated on the bank of the
Rerigonius sinus, now called Loch Ryan, and was near
the farm of Innermessan, adjacent to which is a large
circular mound or moat, formerly surrounded, as is
supposed, by a fosse, and measuring seventy-eight feet
in height, and 336 round its base. Various purposes
have been assigned to this work of antiquity ; but
whether it was intended for the administration of jus-
tice, for a rendezvous in times of danger, or for the
Beltan (Bel's fire), or for all these, is uncertain. The
circumstance, however, of charred wood, ashes, and
bones having been found at some depth below the sur-
face, within its line of circumscription, is strong evidence
of its having been used occasionally, and perhaps re-
gularly, as a place of sepulture. On or near the site of
Rerigoinum, at a later period, stood the town and castle
of Innermessan. The latter belonged to Sir Andrew
Agnew, of Lochnaw ; the former, till eclipsed by the
town of Stranraer, was the largest place in the Rhins of
Galloway ; but no traces of either remain, except a
sewer about three feet under ground.
The celebrated abbey of Soulseat, or Saulseat, was
founded here in the 12th centui-y, by Fergus, lord of
Galloway, for Pramonstratensian monks. Though its
history is, for the most part, involved in obscurity,
Chalmers is of opinion that it was the first institution
of the order in Scotland ; that its abbots were the supe-
riors of the Prsmonstratensian monks throughout the
5 55
kingdom ; and that the establishment was the mother
of the more opulent priory of Whithorn, as well as of
the abbey of Holywood. In an act of parliament of
1487, it is spoken of as not being subject to the autho-
rity or appointment of the Pope. In 1532, it appears
that David, abbot of Soulseat, was invested with a com-
mission from the king, to visit and reform all the
houses in Scotland of his own order; and in 1658, the
abbot is named in a document as uniting with others
in defence of the queen. This abbey, situated on a
peninsula that stretched out into a lake, to which it
gave its name, and surrounded by a burial-ground, was
called Sedes Animantm, and Monasterium viridis slagni, the
latter term in allusion to the green appearance, at cer-
tain times, of the surface of the lake. It was a ruin in
16S4, and but very small portions of the remains are
now to be seen ; but a part of the burial- ground is still
occasionally used as a place of interment. The man-
sion of Castle-Kennedy, situated here, and which was
accidentally destroyed by fire in 1715, was a lofty and
spacious structure, supposed to have been built in the
reign of James VI., and was the seat of the powerful
earls of Cassilis, whose property and influence spread
over so large a part of Wigtonshire. It passed, with
the lands, in the time of Charles II., to Sir J. Dalrymple,
the younger, of Stairs, in whose family the estate has
since continued, though the building, the remaining
walls of which are seventy feet high, has not been in-
habited since the fire. The structure is surrounded
by grounds beautifully laid out after a military plan
devised by Marshal Stair ; and adjoining are flourishing
plantations, containing some lofty and luxuriant ash-
trees.
The parish of Inch formerly comprehended a part
of that of Stranraer and the whole of Portpatrick. The
latter was separated and made distinct in 162S; and
about the same period, a portion of Inch, with some
land in Leswalt, was allotted to form the parish of
Stranraer, and the old parish of Soulseat was united to
Inch. The parish has the county of Ayr on the north,
the parishes of New and Old Luce on the east, and that
of Stoneykirk on the south ; on the west it is bounded
for about eight miles by Loch Ryan. It is ten miles
in length, and in one part nearly of the same breadth,
comprising 30,600 acres, of which 12,600 are cultivated
or occasionally in tillage, and the remainder waste or
natural pasture. The northern portion is principally
high land, rising in some places to an elevation of S12
feet above the level of the sea, and, with the exception
of a small portion under the plough, is in general rug-
ged, and covered with heath, about S00 acres only being
considered capable of cultivation. The southern portion,
which is part of an isthmus formed by Loch Ryan and
the bay of Luce, is slightly undulated, but has, when
viewed from the hills, the appearance of a continuous
plain. It contains several hollows, provincially called
Pots, which were produced by the action of the water
when spread over this division of the parish, and one of
which is 1000 feet in circumference, and 100 feet deep.
The river Luce, in which are good salmon, forms the
boundary line between this parish and Luce ; and the
Piltanton, a smaller and slower stream, falling, like the
former, into the bay of Luce, divides it from Stoneykirk.
The lands are also ornamented with twelve lochs of
fresh water, including those of Castle-Kennedy and
4 B 2
INCH
INCH
Soulseat, which are the most celebrated for their beau-
tiful scenery. The whole abound in pike, perch, trout,
eels, and roach ; and in the frosty weather, some of
them are frequented by large numbers of wild-duck,
teal, widgeon, coots, and cormorants. These, with the
swarms of wild-geese near the brooks and the sea-shore,
and the flocks of cm-lews, plovers, and every kind of
game on the high lands, afford ample gratification to
the sportsman, and impart an air of livejiness to the
district, which is sometimes increased by crowds of per-
sons of all ranks enjoying, upon the frozen surface of
the lochs, the favourite amusements of curling and
skating. Swans, also, frequently visit the place in the
winter ; and the sea-mew, in the spring, finds a retreat
among the sedge of the lochs, for bringing forth her
young. Loch Ryan, situated at the mouth of the Clyde,
has long been a secure retreat for vessels entering or
leaving that river, and for those navigating the Irish
channel, even in the most stormy and dangerous
weather, on account of its excellent anchorage and
safe shelter off the village of Cairnryan. It is between
eight and nine miles in length, from its northern ex-
tremity to the town of Stranraer at its head, and is
about three miles wide at the entrance. It has at first
from four to five fathoms' depth of water, which gra-
dually increases to from seven to eight : and is con-
sidered to be admirably adapted for a mail-packet
station between Scotland and Ireland. Salmon are
taken in its estuaries ; and its fishery, the produce of
which comprises cod, haddock, whiting, herrings, floun-
ders, and oysters of very superior quality, partly belongs
to Sir Alexander Wallace, and is held by charter from
the crown.
The soil, varying almost as much as the surface, is
in the high grounds partly loam, though chiefly clay,
with a considerable proportion of moss, and large tracts
of peat, from which the inhabitants are plentifully sup-
plied with good fuel. In the lower parts it is light and
fertile, resting on gravel or sand, and produces good
crops of all kinds of grain, potatoes, turnips, and hay.
The cultivation of the turnip was introduced into the
parish, about a century since, by Marshal Stair, and,
though practised only to a very inconsiderable extent
till within the last few years, has now become a favourite
branch of husbandry, the lightness of the soil being
remarkably suited to the root. The crops are eaten off
the ground by sheep, to the great advantage of the land.
The cattle are partly of the Galloway kind ; but the
great regard formerly paid to this stock has lately much
diminished, and the fanners, turning their attention
more to the dairy, have introduced the Ayrshire cow
to a great extent ; and cheese now forms a considerable
part of the disposable produce. Numerous improve-
ments in agriculture have taken place within the pre-
sent century ; many acres of bog have been reclaimed,
and converted into good arable land, now yielding fine
crops ; and most of the farm-houses have been rendered
comfortable dwellings. The fences on the lower grounds
are occasionally formed of thorn hedges, but are gene-
rally turf dykes, sown with whins ; on the higher lands
they are entirely of stone. The rateable annual value
of Inch is £10,986. The geology of the parish has no
striking features, the hills consisting chiefly of stratified
transition rocks, the principal of which is greywacke :
detached blocks of granite are occasionally to be seen ;
556
and near Loch Ryan is an excellent slate-quarry. Several
attempts have been made to discover coal, but without
effect. There is a little natural wood, principally in
the glens of the Highland district ; the plantations cover
655 acres, all inclosed. The oldest are those made by
Marshal Stair, and consist chiefly of beech, a wood sup-
posed at that time to be the only one suited to the soil
and climate, but which has since been equalled, if not
surpassed, in growth and value by the ash and plane.
These latter, with oak, elm, and larch, are now to be
seen, in a thriving condition, in most of the plantations,
and serve very beneficially as a protection to the arable
grounds.
The chief village is Cairnryan, which contains 196 per-
sons, and is distant seven miles from the parish church ;
about 100 reside in another village, and a few in a
suburb of Stranraer, lately built in the parish. The
high road from London to Portpatrick, and that from
Glasgow to the same place, pass through Inch, and are
daily traversed by mail coaches. The steam-packet,
also, running between Glasgow and Stranraer, and that
from Belfast to Stranraer, touch at Cairnryan, for pas-
sengers and goods. A monthly market, called " the
Stranraer cattle-market," is held from April to October.
The parish ecclesiastically is in the presbytery of Stran-
raer and synod of Galloway, and in the patronage of
the Crown. The stipend is £'264; and there is a
manse, rebuilt in 1S3S, with a glebe containing eighteen
acres, valued at £15. 15. per annum, and four acres,
lately added by the draining of a loch. The church,
built in 1770, and capable of accommodating 400 per-
sons, occupies a beautiful situation adjoining the pic-
turesque woods and lake of Castle-Kennedy. The
parochial school affords instruction in the classics,
practical mathematics, and the various branches of a
good education ; the master receives the minimum
salary, about £23 in fees, and has a house and garden.
At Glenterra is a relic of antiquity called the Standing
Stones, situated near the road to New Luce, consisting
of four large upright stones, and conjectured to have
been originally a Druidical temple : near these is a
single stone, also erect. There is likewise a series of
stones called the Stepping-Stones of Glenterra, disposed
like stairs, extending for about a quarter of a mile along
a peaty moss, and supposed to have been placed there
for the convenience of transit. Stone axes are occa-
sionally discovered ; and there are numerous cairns in
the upper, and tumuli in the lower, part of the parish,
which are generally thought to have been raised by the
Novantes for sepulchral purposes. They are usually
called the Auld Grey Cairns, and are formed of a circular
heap of stones, from fifty to seventy feet in diameter,
and rising from six to eight feet in the centre : in the
interior is a cavity formed by large flat stones, in which
an urn is generally found, containing bony fragments,
ashes, &c. At the farm of Larg, near the river Luce,
are the remains of a castle, once the residence of the
Lyns of Larg. The castle of Craig-Caffie, also situated
here, was the property of the Nelsons, a family now
extinct, and is a moderate-sized ancient structure, sur-
rounded by a fosse, and still in good condition, but
converted into a farm-house. That part of the parish
which, with a portion of Leswalt, was detached to form
the parish of Stranraer, was the site of a chapel dedi-
cated to St. John ; and near this stood a castle, which
INCH
inch
Symson, in his description of Galloway, written in 1684,
calls "a good house pertaining to Sir John Dalryniple,
younger, of Stair," but which is now a jail for the
town of Stranraer. There are several chalybeate springs,
and some partially sulphureous. Marshal Stair, cele-
brated in military and political history, was a native of
Inch. North-west Castle is the seat of Sir John Ross,
the well known navigator of the Arctic, who was born
here in 1777, during the incumbency of his father, the
Rev. Andrew Ross ; and General Sir Alexander J. Wal-
lace, distinguished as a military officer in Egypt, India,
and the Peninsula, also resides in the parish.
INCH-CAILLOCH, an isle, in the parish of Bucha-
nan, county of Stirling. This beautiful island, of
which the name signifies the " Isle of Old Women," is
situated in Loch Lomond, and is one of a cluster in that
magnificent and celebrated lake. It lies close to the
shore, about two miles distant in a line westward from
the church of Buchanan, and is a mile in length, ele-
vated, and covered with wood, except where cultivated
for wheat and oats, which it produces of very good qua-
lity. Here formerly stood a nunnery, the church
attached to which was once the parochial church of
Buchanan ; but owing to the inconvenience arising
from crossing to the island in boisterous weather, divine
service was transferred to a chapel near the house of
Buchauan. This place is the property of the Duke of
Montrose.
INCHCOLM, an island, in the parish of Aberdour,
district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 1| mile (S.
by W.) from Aberdour; containing 5 inhabitants. It is
situated in the Frith of Forth, immediately opposite to
Aberdour ; and the approach to it is very beautiful. On
this island are the remains of a celebrated monastery of
Augustines, founded in 1123, by Alexander I., in accord-
ance with a vow, and most richly endowed by his muni-
ficence. It soon became famous for its sanctity ; and
in consequence, Alan de Mortimer, lord of Aberdour,
bestowed half of the lands of the parish on the monks,
for the privilege of a family burial-place in their church.
The wealth of the convent proved so great a temptation
to the army and seamen employed in the invasion of the
kingdom by Edward III., that, they ravaged it without
mercy, not sparing even the vessels consecrated to divine
worship. A storm, however, happening instantly to
follow, which overtook their ships, and in which many
of them perished, they were struck with what they re-
garded as a judgment upon their impiety ; and they re-
turned on the cessation of the tempest, and restored the
spoil. The monastery continued a place of great conse-
quence, and was highly venerated, until the Reforma-
tion. On every side the island is hemmed in by rugged
rocks ; in the centre is a hollow vale, connecting the
two circular ends of the island, as if by an isthmus ;
and a range of fine land and marine scenery appears in
all directions, with, on the south-east, a splendid view of
the city of Edinburgh. A small part of the island is
arable ; and a few stunted trees grow round the ancient
walls of the ruined cloisters. The isle abounds in
rabbits ; has an occasional lobster-fishery ; and is noted
for its onions, which it produces in great quantities.
During the late war with France, Inchcolm was gar-
risoned by a party of artillery ; and on the east end,
where it is high and rocky, a battery of ten guns was at
that time erected.
557
INCH-CONAGAN, an isle, in the parish of Luss,
county of Dumbarton. It lies in the fine water of
Loch Lomond, about a mile eastward of the shore, and
is one of a group of several isles closely bordering on
one another. It is more than half a mile in length, and
about two furlongs and a half in breadth ; and contains
about ninety-four acres, chiefly under natural wood.
INCH-CRUIN, an isle, in the parish of Buchanan,
county of Stirling. This isle, of which the name sig-
nifies " the Round Island," is situated in Loch Lomond,
and is about three-quarters of a mile in length, affording
some good arable and pasture ground. There was for-
merly a retreat here for insane persons.
INCH-FAD, an isle, in the parish of Buchanan,
county of Stirling. The name, in English, " Long
Island," is descriptive of its form ; it is about a mile in
length, and between two and three furlongs in breadth,
and lies, like the two preceding isles, in the loch of
Lomond, not far from the main land of the parish. The
soil is very fertile, producing excellent grain, and fine
pasture; and there is a small portion of wood.
INCHGARVIE, an isle, in the parish of Inver-
keithing, county of Fife. This is a small islet in the
Frith of Forth, about half a mile south of Queensferry,
in the parish of Inverkeithing, and double this distance
from Queensferry, on the opposite shore of Linlithgow.
In the reign of James IV., a fort was erected here,
which was latterly used as a state prison ; and this fort,
or another built on its site, is still remaining on the
summit of the isle, in ruins. Owing to the alarm occa-
sioned by the appearance of Paul Jones and his squadron
in the Frith, in 1779, the fortifications were renewed,
and four twenty-four pounders were mounted upon
them ; but they have been since removed.
INCHINNAN, a parish, in the Upper ward of the
county of Renfrew, 3 miles (N.) from Paisley; con-
taining, with the hamlets of Broomlands and Luckens-
ford, 500 inhabitants. This place derives its name,
signifying in the Gaelic language "a river island," from.
its peninsular situation, being almost surrounded by the
rivers which form its principal boundaries. In some
documents it is mentioned under the designation of
Killinan, from the circumstance of the site of its church
being totally insulated by the winding of one of those
rivers, of which, however, the channel w-as long since
diverted. The manor was one of the many grants con-
ferred upon the ancient family of the Stuarts, pre-
viously to their accession to the throne ; and is parti-
cularly noticed in a charter of Malcolm IV., dated at
Roxburgh in 1158, in which that monarch confirms to
Walter Stuart the office of high steward of Scotland,
and the lands which had been bestowed upon him by
David I. In 1511, James IV., by charter, granted to
Matthew, Lord Darnley, and second Earl of Lennox,
the manor and palace of Inchinnan, with their depen-
dencies, all which, upon the death of the fourth earl,
descended to his grandson, James VI., who conferred
them upon his great uncle, John, Lord D'Aubigny,
whom he also raised to a dukedom in 1581. These
estates, again reverting to the crown, were, in 1680,
given by Charles II. to his natural son, Charles, whom
he had created Duke of Lennox and Richmond, and
who sold them to the Duke of Montrose, from whom
they were ultimately purchased by the ancestor of Mr.
Campbell, of Blythswood, the present proprietor.
INCH
INCH
The parish is about three and a half miles in length,
and varies from three quarters of a mile to something
more than two miles in breadth. It is bounded on the
north by the river Clyde, which separates it from the
parish of Kilpatrick, in the county of Dumbarton ; on
the south by the river Gryfe, which separates it from the
parish of Renfrew j on the east by the river Cart, which
also divides it from Renfrew ; and on the west, by the
parishes of Erskine and Houston. The surface rises
gradually from the rivers in a gentle acclivity, in some
parts diversified with hills of considerable elevation,
cultivated from the base nearly to their summits, which
are crowned with plantations, adding much beauty and
variety to the scenery, which is also enlivened by the
different streams that skirt the parish. The Clyde,
which has been much improved by the deepening of its
channel, affords some salmon ; and great quantities of
those fish used formerly to be taken here. The river
Gryfe flows with a tranquil course, in a clear and pel-
lucid stream, between banks richly diversified, till it
forms the boundary of the parish. It then passes
through the grounds of Walkingshaw, receives the Black
Cart, and, winding along a level tract of rich land,
meanders round the rocky hill on which the church
is built : then, being joined by the White Cart near the
bridge of Inchinnan, it expands into ample breadth, and
continues its course till it falls into the Clyde near
Blythsvvood. These rivers abound with perch, trout,
aud eels ; and in the river Cart, near its confluence with
the Clyde, is an island occasionally frequented by the
halcyon or kingfisher. On the banks of the Gryfe and
other streams, snipes, wild-duck, and other water-fowl
are abundant ; pheasants and partridges are plentiful,
and grouse is often found on the moorlands.
The whole number of acres in the parish is 3060, of
which 2600 are arable land in good cultivation, 100
natural pasture, and 300 wood. The soil is generally
a stiff clay ; on the banks of the rivers, a rich black
loam ; and in the hill}' parts, a light sand and gravel.
The crops are, oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and tur-
nips ; the system of husbandry is in a very advanced
state, and great improvement has been made in drain-
ing and inclosing the lands, for the former of which a
tile-kiln till lately existed on the lands of Blythswood.
Great attention is paid to the management of dairy-
farms, and nearly 300 cows are kept for that pur-
pose, which are the finest of the Ayrshire breed :
few horses are reared but such as are employed in agri-
culture, and these are the Clydesdale. The produce of
the dairies finds a ready market at Paisley, to which
town, also, and to Glasgow, the grain raised in the
parish is sent. The farm-buildings are substantial and
commodious, and, with very few exceptions, are all
roofed with slate. Considerable portions of the moor-
lands have been reclaimed, and brought into cultivation.
Such of them as still remain, produce great quantities
of peat, which is used for fuel : and much of the best
quality, which is found on the Southbarr estate, is sent
to Edinburgh and Clackmannan by water, and to Glas-
gow and Greenock by land carriage, for the supply of
the distilleries. The substratum of the soil is generally
a loose gravel, interspersed with boulders of primary
and secondary rocks, resting upon a bed of carboni-
ferous rock, traversed by dykes of whinstone, some of
which are of great thickness, and alternated with grey
558
sandstone, in which are found occasionally beautiful
specimens of fossils. Limestone and coal are predomi-
nant ; and both have been worked, especially the first,
to a very considerable extent. Whinstone is quarried
for paving, and for mending the roads. Freestone of
very superior quality is also quarried on the lands of
Park, whence was taken the stone of which the church
and the bridge of this parish are built ; and from the
whin dykes, all the materials were furnished for the
use of the trustees for the improvement of the naviga-
tion of the Clyde. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £6308. The principal seats are, Southbarr,
Park, and House Hill. There is scarcely any assemblage
of houses that deserves the name of a village, the popu-
lation being wholly agricultural. The bridge over the
Gryfe and the White Cart, near their confluence, is an
elegant structure erected at an expense of £17,000,
and consists of two divisions, each spanning one of
those rivers : near it is a wharf, to which coal is brought
for the supply of the inhabitants ; and there is another
bridge at Barnsford. Good roads afford an easy com-
munication with the neighbouring towns in different
directions.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Paisley and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr. The stipend of the incumbent is
£261 ; the manse is a comfortable residence of modern
erection, and the glebe comprises seven and a half acres
of profitable land, valued at £20 per annum. The
incumbent also receives the revenue arising from a
piece of land called Ladyacre, which, before the Refor-
mation, was given for the maintenance of an altar in
the parish church. The old church was a very ancient
building, supposed to have been founded before the
reign of David I., who granted it, with all its depen-
dencies, to the Knights Templars, after whose suppres-
sion it was transferred to the Hospitallers, who had a
preceptory at Torphichen, in the county of Linlithgow.
The last of the superiors, at the dissolution of monas-
teries, laying aside his monastic office and title, pur-
chased the lands that had belonged to the establishment
from the crown, and was created Lord Torphichen.
The patronage of the church of this place was subse-
quently obtained by the Dukes of Lennox and Montrose,
from whom it passed, by purchase, to the ancestor of
Mr. Campbell, in whom it is at present vested. The
present parish church was erected on the site of the
ancient structure, in 1829 ; it is a neat edifice in the
pointed style, with a massive square tower. The paro-
chial school is under good regulation, and is attended
by about sixty scholars ; the master has a salary of
£34, with £24 fees, and a house and offices, a spacious
school-room and play-ground for the children, and half
an acre of garden. Agricultural chemistry is taught
in this school. There is a female school of industry,
superintended by a mistress, who has a school-room,
house, and garden provided for her by the heritors,
and is supported partly by fees, which are very mo-
derate. The parish has also two Sabbath schools,
and a parochial library, containing a good collection
of religious and historical works, to which all the
parishioners have access, on payment of a nominal
subscription. The ancient palace of Inchinnan, which
was situated in the northern portion of the parish, over-
looking the Clyde, was built by Matthew, Earl of Len-
INCH
INCH
nox, at the commencement of the sixteenth century :
there are now no remains of it, the materials having
been used for various purposes ; and no memorial is
preserved except the site. Silver and copper coins of
the reigns of Henry IV. of France, and William and
Mary of England, were found among the ruins of the
old church, which was taken down in 1828. In the
churchyard are several tombs, with crosses of different
character, sculptured on the ridges of the covering
stone ; they are said to have been the tombs of Knights
Templars. Robert Law, author of the Memorials of
Scotland, was a native of the parish.
INCHKEITH, an island, in the parish of King-
horn, district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, cl\ miles
(S. S. E.) from Kinghorn : containing 9 inhabitants.
This is a rocky isle, in the Frith of Forth, lying nearly
equidistant between Kinghorn and Leith. It derives
its name from the gallant Keith, who, in 1010, so
greatly signalised himself at the battle of Barrie, in
Forfarshire, against the Danes, the island, with the
barony of Keith, being conferred upon him on that
occasion, as a reward for his valour, by Malcolm II.
In the fourteenth century, having fallen to the crown,
it was bestowed, with the lands of Kinghorn, on Lord
Glammis ; and the Strathmore family retained it until
1649, when it became the property, by purchase, of Sir
John Scott, of Scotstarvit. After passing subsequently
into the hands of various persons, it at length came to
the Dukes of Buccleuch, as heritors of the parish. The
isle is above a mile in length, and of various breadth, and
irregular surface ; it has excellent pasturage for cattle
and sheep, and some patches of good arable land ; with
fine springs of water, collected by tubes into a tank for
the supply of vessels. On the south side is a small
quay; and a lighthouse stands on an elevation of ISO
feet above the sea, and is seen at the distance of eigh-
teen nautical miles. At the close of the fifteenth century,
Inchkeith was made a place of compulsory retirement
for persons labouring under a loathsome disease called
the " grandgore." It was subsequently an important
military station, particularly during the regency of
Mary of Guise, and the reigns of the unfortunate Queen
Mary, and Charles I. of England.
INCH-KENNETH, an isle, in the parish of Kilfin-
ichen, county of Argyll. It lies in Loch-na-Keal,
about two miles east of Colonsay, on the western coast
of Mull, and twelve miles west-by-south from Aros.
It is a pleasant island, about a mile long and half a mile
broad, and having some good laud. In 1773, Inch-
Kenneth was the retreat of Sir Allan Maclean, the chief
of his clan, who was here visited by Johnson and Bos-
well : his residence is now in ruins. Some vestiges of
a chapel mark the site of an ancient seminary of monks,
dependent on the abbey of Iona.
INCH-LONAIG, an isle, in the parish of Luss,
county of Dumbarton. This islet is one of a nume-
rous group, beautifully situated in Loch Lomond, and
is about a mile long and a quarter of a mile broad, and
estimated to contain 145 acres, of which a number are
under wood. It lies equidistant between Luss, on one
side of the lake, and the parish of Buchanan, on the
opposite shore ; and has been latterly appropriated as a
deer-park, by the Colquhoun family, whose handsome
seat of Ross dhu is on the borders of the lake. The
isle is remarkable for the number and size of its fine old
559
yew-trees, which are of natural growth, and of which
bows and arrows were formerly made.
INCH-MARNOCK, an island, in the parish of
Rothesay, and lying in the Frith of Clyde, 2 miles
(W.) from the Isle of Bute. This island, which is
situated opposite to St. Ninian's Point, in the bay of
that name, was anciently a settlement of Culdee monks.
It was subsequently granted by Roderick of Cantyre to
the monastery of Cantyre, about the year 1229, before
the erection of Rothesay into a parish, and continued to
form a part of that establishment till the Reformation.
It is two miles in length and half a mile in breadth,,
and comprises 560 acres, of which 120 are arable, and
the remainder moorland and pasture. The surface is
pleasingly diversified ; and near the eastern shore are
the picturesque remains of an ancient chapel dedicated
to St. Marnock.
INCH-MICKERY, an isle, in the parish of Cra-
mond, county of Edinburgh, situated in the Frith of
Forth, near the isle and village of Cramond, and a little
to the east of luchcolm. It is of very small extent, not
being more than a few furlongs in circumference ; and
is remarkable for a profusion of mosses, lichens, and
long tangling sea-weed. On its shores are noted oyster-
beds.
INCH-MOAN, an isle, in the parish of Luss, county
of Dumbarton. This isle, of which the name signifies
" the Moss Isle," lies in Loch Lomond ; is about three
quarters of a mile in length and a quarter of a mile in
breadth; and contains about 100 acres, mostly covered
with moss, and supplying peat to the village of Luss
and its neighbourhood.
INCH-MURIN, an isle, in the parish of Buchanan,
county of Stirling, the largest and most southern of
the islands of the loch of Lomond. Its length is about
two miles and its breadth one ; it is finely wooded, and
affords excellent pasture. This isle was the residence of
the ancient Earls of Lennox ; and at the south end are
the ruins of a castle, surrounded by venerable oaks, in
which the noble family resided. It is now the property
of the Duke of Montrose, and is kept chiefly as a deer-
park. In 1793, the late duke built a handsome hunt-
ing-seat and offices here, at present occupied by the
keeper, who cultivates some ground around the house.
From St. Murrin, the tutelary saint of Paisley, the
island is said to have derived its name.
INCH-TAVANACH, an isle, in the parish of Luss,
county of Dumbarton, one of the numerous islands in
Loch Lomond, and lying near the west margin of the
lake, between Ross-dhu and the village of Luss. The
name signifies " the Island of the Monk;" and it ap-
pears to have been a place of retirement for some con-
templative hermit. This is the loftiest land in the loch,
and is chiefly composed of grey granite, with some
rocks of micaceous schistus, and quantities of quartz.
The isle is about three-quarters of a mile in length and
three furlongs in breadth, and is largely covered with
wood and heath, some out-field occasionally producing
good crops. A family resides upon it.
INISHAIL, county of Argyll. — See Glenorchy.
INCHTURE and ROSSIE, a parish, in the county
of Perth ; including the villages of Baledgarno and
Ballindean, and containing 765 inhabitants, of whom
243 are in the village of Inchture, 13 miles (E. by N.)
from Perth. The word Inchture is altogether of doubt-
INCH
INCH
ful derivation, but is supposed by some Gaelic scholars
to be formed from the terms innis, "an island," and ear,
" the east," the eminence on which the church and village
stand being the most eastern of a series of elevations
that were formerly islands. The parish, which compre-
hends the ancient parish of Rossie, now extinct, though
the ruin of the church still remains, is situated on the
north-west of the estuary of the Tay, and measures in
length four miles, from north to south, and three in
breadth, comprising 3700 Scotch acres, of which about
3200 are in tillage and pasture, and the remainder under
wood. Being mostly in the rich and fertile tract of the
Carse of Gowrie, usually considered as the " garden of
Scotland," the parish shares in all the superiority of
scenery, soil, and produce for which that beautiful dis-
trict is so justly celebrated. The surface is consider-
ably diversified. On the south-east, where the lands
are washed by the estuary, are extensive sand-banks,
which, at ebb-tide, are seen stretching over several hun-
dreds of acres, and which are bordered inland with a
broad margin of sedge or reeds. This is succeeded by
a rich alluvial plain, about twenty feet high, extending
the whole breadth of the parish, and reaching north-
westerly for two or three miles. At the extremity of
this plain, again, is the eminence ornamented with the
pleasing village of Inchture ; and still further towards
the north-west appear, in succession, the hills known
by the names of Rossie, Baledgarno, and Ballindean,
forming a portion of the district here called the " braes
of the carse;" and the border of the Sidlaw range
rising about 500 feet high. The parish is watered by
two principal streams designated " pows," and which are
augmented by numerous rivulets descending from the
hills. The one flows for a considerable distance along
the south-western boundary, into the Frith at Powgavie,
where it forms the harbour of that name; and the other,
towards the north, formed of the burns of Baledgarno
and Rossie, partly separates the parish from Long-
forgan, where it reaches the Frith. The estuary is here
about three miles wide ; but at low water the tide re-
cedes to a great distance from the shore, and the sands
are marked by many deep fissures, called "water-runs,"
being channels for the streams. The water of the Tay
is strongly impregnated with salt, in consequence of
the rapidity of the tide, and the large influx from the
sea.
The soil on the level grounds, which constitute by
far the larger portion of the parish, is a rich alluvial
clay of great depth ; the undulations and hills comprise
loam, gravel, and sand, with a little peat, resting gene-
rally on red sandstone or whinstone. The whole is
highly cultivated, and presents one of the finest speci-
mens to be met with of agricultural skill. All kiuds of
crops are raised : the rotation followed on about two-
thirds of the grounds is the seven-shift, and in the re-
mainder the six-shift course is followed. A large part
of the district in which the parish is situated being a
corn country, the rearing of cattle has hitherto been a
subordinate consideration ; but much more attention
is now paid to it than formerly ; and Leicester sheep,
and the Ayrshire and Teeswater stock of cattle, have
been to some extent introduced, as well as an improved
breed of horses. Most of the farms have been thoroughly
drained ; the reclaiming of laud overflowed by the tide
is going on with spirit ; and many embankments have
560
been raised. Though the inclosures at present are prin-
cipally in the upper portion of the parish, numerous
hedge-rows have been planted, and palings erected, on
the lower grounds ; and the farm-houses and buildings
are, in general, in good condition. In 1S3S, a thresh-
ing-mill driven by steam, the only one of the kind in
the parish, was erected on Lord Kinnaird's property at
Powgavie. The substratum of the lower parts consists
of red sandstone, and the hills of whinstone, of each of
which several quarries are in operation. There is lime-
stone, but not at present worked ; and the locality
contains several veins of copper, which, however, have
never been wrought : valuable pebbles, also, and various
minerals, have occasionally been found. The planta-
tions, with the exception of the ornamental portions,
are chiefly on the hills, and comprise oak, ash, elm,
beech, birch, larch, and other kinds. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £8011.
Rossie Priory, situated on the slope of Rossie hill,
and commanding most extensive and beautiful views,
was built chiefly by the late Lord Kinnaird, in 1S07; it
is a very superior mansion, erected with stone from the
quarries on the estate, and has been much enlarged and
improved by the present noble proprietor, whose an-
cestor, in the twelfth century, obtained a grant of the
lands here from William the Lion. The only other
mansion is a modern edifice, named Ballindean House,
and situated near the foot of the hill of the same name.
The village of Inchture is famed for its excellent beer ;
and from its brewery are sent, weekly, large supplies to
Perth, Dundee, Cupar-Angus, and all parts of the sur-
rounding district. The parish also contains, besides
several hamlets, the villages of Baledgarno and Ballin-
dean. The former is supposed to have been so called
from Edgar, who came to the throne at the beginning
of the eleventh century, and whose name is contained
in the two middle syllables : his castle was on an ad-
joining hill, still called Castle hill, though no remains
of the building are now visible. The manufacture of
linen is carried on in the parish in private houses ; the
article produced is a very coarse fabric for sacks or
packing. The population, however, are almost all agri-
cultural, and have somewhat diminished in number
within the last few years, in consequence of the con-
solidation of some of the smaller farms. There is a
general post-office established at Inchture ; and the
high road between Edinburgh and Aberdeen by way of
Perth and Dundee, passes through the parish. The
harbour of Powgavie, or Polgavie, forms the chief point
of traffic : a considerable number of vessels come laden
with coal, lime, manure, seeds, and grain, and carry
away farm produce, especially corn and potatoes, wood,
fruits, &c. The parish is in the presbytery of Dundee
and synod of Angus and Mearns, and in the patronage
of the Crown : the minister's stipend is £200, with a
manse, and a glebe of ten acres, valued at £30 per an-
num. The church, conveniently situated in the middle
of the principal village, was built in 1S35, of red sand-
stone from a quarry in the vicinity. The parochial
school affords instruction in the usual branches ; the
master has a salary of £34, with a dwelling-house, and
£27 fees. On the borders of the parish is a large
stone, supposed by some to be that on which the falcon
alighted when boundaries were assigned to the lands
given to the gallant Hay and his two sons, after the
I N N E
INNE
celebrated battle of Luncarty. The other antiquities
comprise chiefly the ruins of the castle of Moncur, the
cross formerly surrounded by the village of Rossie, and
the interesting remains of the old church of that name,
now overgrown with ivy and ash.
INNERKIP, a parish, in the Lower ward of the
county of Renfrew ; including the village of Gourock,
and containing 3420 inhabitants, of whom 431 are in
the village of Innerkip, 6 miles (S. W. by W.) from
Greenock. This parish, of which the name, originally
Inverkip, is derived from its situation at the mouth
of the river Kip, formerly included the old parish of
Greenock, which was separated from it in 1589, by
charter, obtained by Sir John Shaw, of Wester Greenock,
and ratified by parliament in 1594. The present parish,
which is about seven miles in length and six in breadth,
is bounded on the north and west by the Frith of Clyde,
on the east by the parish of Greenock, and on the south
by the parish of Largs, in the county of Ayr. The
coast is indented with several bays, of which the prin-
cipal are, Gourock on the north, and Lunderston, Inner-
kip, and Wemyss, on the west. The surface has a
gradual ascent from the shore towards the south-east,
and is beautifully diversified with level plains and gentle
undulations, and intersected by small rivulets, flowing
in some parts through verdant meadows, and in others
disappearing in thickly wooded glens. The principal
rivers are the Kip and the Duff, which latter forms a
confluence with the Kip near its influx into the bay of
Innerkip. The soil along the shore is light and sandy,
in the higher grounds of heavier quality, but much in-
termixed with gravel. The whole number of acres has
not been ascertained : more than half the parish is
moorland, of which a considerable part is undivided
common ; there is a large extent of natural meadow
and pasture ; and but a small proportion is arable, the
farmers relying more upon the produce of the dairy, for
which they find profitable markets, than on the cultiva-
tion of the soil. Considerable improvement has, not-
withstanding, been made in the system of agriculture ;
furrow-draining has been adopted with success, and
some small portions of waste land have been reclaimed.
The rocks are principally of the old red sandstone for-
mation, and towards Wemyss bay are intersected with
trap : in the upper part of the parish, sandstone of fine
quality has been extensively quarried for building. The
rateable annual value of Innerkip is £14,205.
The scenery throughout is pleasingly diversified ; and
the higher grounds embrace extensive and interesting
prospects. Ardgowan House, the seat of Sir Michael
Robert Shaw Stewart, is an elegant mansion, beautifully
situated on the shore near Innerkip bay, embosomed in
thriving plantations, and commanding a fine view over
the Frith of Clyde. Kelly, the seat of the family of
Wallace, is also a handsome mansion, on the shore of
Wemyss bay, and embellished with plantations. There
are several other good houses belonging to different
proprietors. The village is pleasantly situated on the
banks of the river Kip, near its influx into the Clyde ; it
is chiefly inhabited by fishermen, and is much frequented
during the season for sea-bathing. There are some well-
furnished houses for the accommodation of visiters ;
and a post-office, subordinate to that of Greenock, has
been established here. Facility of communication is
afforded by an excellent turnpike-road from Greenock,
Vol. I.— 561
recently completed. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Greenock and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The minister's stipend is
£278. 14. 6., with a manse, and a glebe of four acres ;
patron, Sir Michael Robert Shaw Stewart. The parish
church is a neat modern structure, containing sufficient
accommodation for the population. A church has been
erected in the district of Gourock, of which an account
will be found under the head of Gourock. The paro-
chial school is well attended ; the master has a salary
of £30. 15., but no house, and the fees average £26 per
annum. On the lands of Ardgowan are some remains
of the ancient mansion-house, consisting of a venerable
tower ; and over the Dunrod rivulet is a very antique
bridge.
INNERLEITHEN, a parish, chiefly in the county
of Peebles, but partly in the county of Selkirk, 6^
miles (E. S. E.) from Peebles; containing 931 inhabit-
ants, of whom 463 are in the village, and 468 in the
rural districts of the parish. This place, properly Inver-
leithen, derives its name from one of the numerous
streams that flow through the lands into the river
Tweed. The parish comprises about 30, COO acres, of
which 2000 are arable, 500 woodland and plantations,
30 in brushwood, and the remainder, of which probably
1500 might be brought into profitable cultivation, hilly
pasture. Its form is that of a triangle, of which the
longest side extends along the river Tweed, and the two
other sides meet in the ridge of mountains called the
Moorfoot hills : the highest hills in this range are the
Hartfell, Coomb, and Loch Craig, far off to the south,
and having an elevation of about 2S00 feet. The
surface along the shore of the Tweed spreads into a
rich and fertile plain, and in other parts is intersected
with numerous deep glens, watered by running streams :
of these glens the most spacious is that through which
the Leithen flows, and which contains a considerable
portion of level meadow land. There are many springs
in the parish, some of which possess highly medicinal
properties ; the principal is that issuing from the base
of a hill near the village, which from that circumstance
has obtained its rapid increase. The scenery is strik-
ingly varied, and in parts very picturesque. From the
farm of Purves Hill, which has a considerable elevation,
is a descent towards the river, by a continued succes-
sion of terraces, about 200 yards in length and eighteen
feet broad, divided into several series by unequal inter-
vals of level ground. These terraces, as seen from the
lands below, form a singular feature in the landscape ;
and some timber of mature growth, and various thriving
plantations on some of the lands in the parish, add
much to the beauty of the scenery. The soil near the
river is rich and fertile, but in the higher grounds of
inferior quality, abounding with heath and moss. The
crops are, wheat, barley, oats, peas, and turnips ; the
system of husbandry is advanced; the farm-buildings
are substantial and commodious, and the lands are well
inclosed. About 400 head of cattle are annually reared,
and much attention has been paid to the improvement
of the breed, originally the old Tweeddale, by the intro-
duction of the Alderney and Northumberland: 16,000
sheep, also, are annually pastured, which are chiefly of
the black-faced and Cheviot breeds. Few horses are
reared, except for purposes of agriculture. The woods
consist of oak, ash, elm, hazel, and birch ; and the
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plantations, of larch and firs, intermixed with the usual
hard-woods. The substrata are, greywacke, greywacke-
slate, clay-slate, .and porphyry of red and grey colour,
the last of which abounds with crystals of felspar. Slate
has been quarried in several parts ; and a quarry at
Hollylee, which had long been abandoned, has again
been opened by the proprietor, and the produce used
for paving the halls of his mansion. The rateable an-
nual value of the parish is £7072, of which £S1S are
returned for the Selkirkshire portion.
The chief houses are Glen-Ormiston and Hollylee,
which are both spacious and handsome structures, finely
situated, and embellished with thriving plantations. The
village, which, as ahead}' stated, is indebted for its in-
crease to the mineral water of Innerleithen, is neatly
built ; and several good houses have been erected for
the accommodation of the numerous visiters who, during
the summer, take up their residence here for the benefit
of the water, which is found efficacious in various com-
plaints. The water, on being analysed, is found to con-
tain, in one imperial quart, 5'3 grains of carbonate of
magnesia, 9'5 grains of muriate of lime, and 21-2 grains
of muriate of soda. The spring issues from a mountain
composed of greywacke, clay-slate, and red porphyry ;
and there is a second spring, which varies a little in the
proportions of its ingredients, containing 10"12 grains
of carbonate of magnesia, 19"4 of muriate of lime, and
31* of muriate of soda. A handsome building has been
erected, with a viranda in front, for the use of the visi-
ters ; and the village is growing into some repute as a
watering-place. A circulating library, which contained
a well-assorted collection, was once supported by sub-
scription ; attached to it was a commodious reading and
news room. A club has been formed for the promotion
of gymnastic exercises, under the patronage of several
noblemen and gentlemen of the district ; and is sup-
ported with much spirit. The woollen manufacture was
introduced here about fifty years since, by Mr. Brodie,
of Traquair, who erected a large factory for that pur-
pose, which, after his decease, was let to several tenants,
by whom the various departments of the trade are still
carried on, affording employment to fifty persons.
Facility of intercourse with Peebles, the nearest market
town, and with the other towns in the district, is af-
forded by good roads, of which the turnpike-road from
Kelso to Glasgow passes for nearly ten miles along the
shores of the Tweed. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Peebles and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; patron, John Booth,
Esq. The stipend of the incumbent is £231 ; the manse
is a comfortable residence, and the glebe comprises
twelve acres, valued at £20 per annum. The church,
built in 17S6, is a neat substantial edifice, conveniently
situated, and adapted for a congregation of 350 persons.
The members of the Free Church have a place of wor-
ship. The parochial school is well attended ; the mas-
ter has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, and
the fees average about £40. There is a friendly society,
which is well supported, and has contributed materially
to diminish the number of applications for parochial
relief.
INNERWICK, a parish, in the county of Hadding-
ton, 4 miles (S. E. by S.) from Dunbar; containing,
with the hamlet of Skateraw, and village of Thornton-
loch, 961 inhabitants, of whom 144 are in the village of
562
Inner wick. This place, of which the name, of Gaelic
origin, is descriptive of its relative position, was granted
by David I. to Walter Stewart, to whom the gift was
confirmed by Malcolm IV., in 1157 ; and it remained in
the possession of his descendants till the reign of Charles
II. of England. It afterwards passed to the Hamiltons,
and idtimately to Sir Peter Wedderburn, of Gosford,
ancestor of the present proprietor. The parish, which
is about ten miles in length, and varies from two to
three miles in breadth, is bounded on the north-east by
the German Ocean, and comprises 11,725 acres, of
which 5040 are arable, 6300 meadow and pasture, and
378 woodland and plantations. The surface is varied
with fertile vales and deep dells, and, from the shore,
rises gently towards the Lammermoor hills : the coast,
which extends for about two miles, is rocky, but marked
with few features of grandeur. The scenery is pleasing,
and in some places enriched with wood : that part of the
parish bordering upon the hills is characterized by pic-
turesque beauty. The lands are watered by two small
streams, of which one, called the Monynut, rises nearly
in the centre of the parish, and, taking a south-eastern
course, falls into the Whiteadder at St. Bathan's Abbey,
in the county of Berwick. The other, called the Thorn-
ton water, rises also near the centre of the parish, and,
flowing in a direction from south to north, falls into
the sea near the village of Thorntonloch.
The soil is generally fertile, consisting of a deep rich
loam ; the crops are, oats, wheat, barley, peas, beans,
potatoes, and turnips. The system of agriculture is in
a very advanced state ; and the course of husbandry on
the lighter soils is a five, and on the heavier a six, shift
course. Lime and bone-dust are the principal manures.
The farm-houses and offices are substantial and well
arranged ; and the lands are inclosed, partly with stone,
and partly with hedges of thorn, all of which are kept in
good order : most of the farms are also furnished with
threshing-mills, some driven by steam, others by water.
Much attention is paid to the rearing of live stock, for
which the extent of natural pasture affords abundant
opportunity. About 5000 sheep are fed in the hilly
district, and a large number, also, are pastured on the
lower lands ; the former are chiefly of the Cheviot and
black-faced breeds, with occasionally a cross between
the two ; the latter are the Leicestershire. Very few
black cattle are reared ; but a considerable number are
purchased, and fattened for the markets. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £10,384. The woods are
mostly oak, and the plantations fir ; some of the trees
are of very ancient growth ; and from the names of
several places, it would appear that the lands were for-
merly covered with extensive woods. The substrata of
the higher portion of the parish are, greywacke, grey-
wacke slate, and red sandstone intersected with veins of
trap rock ; and of the lower, limestone, ironstone, bitu-
minous shale, and indications of coal, which last appears
to have been formerly worked. The limestone, which is
of excellent quality, is quarried at the Skateraw shore,
where is also a kiln for burning it into lime for manure.
Great quantities of limestone were formerly sent from
these quarries to the Devon iron-works ; at present, it
is burnt here, and then sent chiefly to Berwickshire.
Freestone of good quality for building is also found in
the parish, but is worked only as occasion requires. A
small harbour was constructed on the Skateraw shore,
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some years since, for the exportation of the produce of
the quarries, and for the importation of coal ; and
belonging to it are two boats, employed in the fishery
off the coast, where haddock, mackarel, lobsters, and
other fish are taken. The village of Innerwick is situ-
ated about a mile from the London road, which passes
through the parish ; it consists of irregularly built and
detached houses, on the base of a steep, but richly cul-
tivated, hill. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in
agriculture, and in the trades requisite for the supply of
the parish. The nearest market town is Dunbar, with
which, and with other places in the district, the people
have facilities of intercourse by good roads.
The church of Innerwick, together with its revenues,
was granted by Walter Stewart to the abbey of Paisley,
which gift was confirmed by Malcolm IV., in the 12th
century ; it of course ceased to belong to the monks at
the Reformation, and in 16/0 the great and small tithes
were granted to Sir Patrick Wedderburn. The parish is
now in the presbytery of Dunbar and synod of Lothian
and Tweeddale, and in the patronage of Mrs. Ferguson ;
the minister's stipend is £577. 19., with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £15 per annum. The church, situated
on an eminence, in the village of Innerwick, is a neat
plain edifice, erected in 1784. The members of the Free
Church have a place of worship. The parochial school,
also situated in the village, is well attended ; the master
has a salary of £31, with £33 fees, and a house and
garden. There is a parochial library in the village ; and
at Thorntonloeh, a small itinerating library. The poor
are partly supported by the interest of £S00, vested in
securities. There are some remains of the ancient castle
of Innerwick, formerly the baronial residence of the
Stewarts, and afterwards of the Hamiltons. In 1403,
when occupied by an English garrison, it was assaulted
and taken by the Regent, the Duke of Albany ; and,
together with Thornton Castle, which stood on the
opposite bank of the glen, it was attacked by the Pro-
tector Somerset, on his invasion of Scotland. The re-
mains are now very slight, and are rapidly disappearing.
At a short distance from the castle are some small re-
mains of Edinkens Bridge, the origin of which is in-
volved in obscurity : near it were four large stones,
apparently indicating the tomb of some distinguished
person, supposed to have been Edwin of Northumbria,
who took refuge with Malcolm III., from the tyranny of
William the Conqueror. Several stone coffins have been
found in the parish, in two of which were a ring and
part of a sword : and near the village is a field called
Corsikill Park, in which tradition records a conflict to
have taken place between Cospatrick and William Wal-
lace. On the Skateraw shore was an ancient chapel
dedicated to St. Dennys, the remains of which have,
within the last few years, been completely destroyed by
encroachments of the sea.
INNISKENNETH.— See Inch-Kenneth, and Kil-
FINICHEN.
INSCH, a parish, in the district of Garioch, county
of Aberdeen, 3f- miles (W.) from Old Rain ; contain-
ing 1379 inhabitants. The word Insch, or Inch, is of
Celtic derivation, and signifies " an island," its applica-
tion to this place having probably been occasioned by the
site of the village being formerly surrounded by water.
The parish is situated on the northern bank of the
small river Shevock, which separates it from the parishes
563
of Premnay and Kinnethmont, and, running eastward,
falls at length into the Urie. The lands measure in
length six miles, and three in breadth, comprising 7618
acres, of which 5410 are under cultivation, 108 in plan-
tation, and the remainder waste. The surface is much
varied by several interesting elevations. That of the
hill of Foudland is the most lofty, forming the chief of a
series of slate hills stretching on the west into Gartly,
and into Culsamond on the east; it rises 1100 feet
above the level of the sea, and commands extensive and
beautiful prospects, especially of the rich and fertile vale
of the Garioch. The hill of Dunnideer, however, about
a mile west of the village, though only half the height of
the former, is by far the most striking object in the
scenery, not only on account of its insulated situation,
and its ample base, measuring 3000 yards in circum-
ference, but especially from its abrupt and almost per-
pendicular ascent, and its conical form. The summit,
somewhat flattened, attracts the antiquary by the curious
ruins on it, and the tourist by its picturesque beauty.
Opposite to it, on the west, is the equally abrupt emi-
nence of Christ-kirk, in the parish of Kinnethmont,
which is separated from Dunnideer only by a narrow
valley, watered by the Shevoek.
The soil in general is a light loam, upon a gravelly
or clayey subsoil ; but on the sides of the hill of Foud-
land it is a clay, mixed with slaty earth ; and here, as
well as in various other parts, are peat mosses, supply-
ing fuel. Most of these, however, have become nearly
exhausted, so that wood and coal are now much used,
the latter brought from Aberdeen, by canal, to Inverury.
Much of the arable land is of superior quality, and pro-
duces excellent crops, chiefly of oats. The cattle are of
the Aberdeen or the Angus kind, which are frequently
crossed with the short-horned or Durham breed ; and
the improvement in the stock has been considerable, in
consequence of the great encouragement offered by the
cattle-shows held by the Highland and the local agricul-
tural societies. The six years rotation is that most pre-
valent ; and the general system of husbandry includes
all the modern improvements : bone-manure is liberally
and successfully applied to the turnip lands ; and thresh-
ing machines, generally driven by water, are every where
in operation. The chief deficiency is the want of in-
closures and of good farm-buildings. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £5334. The chief lands
belong to J. M. Lesly, Esq., of Balquhain, who holds the
estates called the Barony of Meikle-Wardhouse, Knock-
enbaird, and others, and whose ancestors once possessed
the larger part of this parish, and also lands in several
others in the district of Garioch.
The slate of the Foudland hill quarries, an excellent
material of blue colour, has long been highly celebrated,
and wrought to a great extent. 900,000 slates were
once annually raised, a large proportion of which were
sent to Aberdeen ; but not more than half this number
are now produced, the demand having diminished on
account of the facility with which the Easdale slates,
from Argyllshire, can be conveyed by sea. The rock in
the smaller hills is principally gneiss, with black or grey
granite ; and on the low grounds, near the base of Dun-
nideer, considerable quantities of bog-iron ore have been
found. The only gentleman's seat is Rothney, a hand-
some modern mansion in the cottage style, finely situ-
ated on a gentle acclivitv on the northern bank of the
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Shevock, beautifully ornamented with wood, and the
approach to which from the village is particularly ad-
mired. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in agricul-
tural occupations, and in trading in corn and cattle ; a
few are employed in making stockings for the Aberdeen
manufacturers. The feuars of Insch are heritable pro-
prietors of their houses and small gardens ; they also
mostly rent about four acres of ground each, under Sir
Andrew Leith Ha3r, superior of the ancient burgh of
Insch, to which it is supposed, from a mound near the
village, called the Gallow hill, was formerly attached
the power of " pot and gallows." The houses are regu-
larly built, and are in general of two stories, constructed
of stone and lime. There are several good shops,
chiefly for the sale of necessaries ; and these, as well as
the dwelling-houses, have been for some years lighted
with gas. The mail road from Aberdeen passes through
the parish, to the north side of the Foudland hill, from
which two lines diverge to Huntly, the one forming a
route over the western part of the hill, and the other a
longer and more irregular, but more level, one, through
Kinnethmont and Gartly. The traffic on these roads
is considerable, the country produce being conveyed
along them to the canal at Inverury, from which place
the carts bring home, on their return, coal, lime, and
bones for manure. Two fairs for cattle, horses, and
general wares, are held respectively on the third Wed-
nesday in May and third Tuesday in October, both Old
style ; and there are feeing-markets on the Fridays
before the ISth May and 18th November. The weekly
market, held on Friday, has disappeared.
The parish is in the presbytery of Garioch and synod
of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of Sir John Forbes,
Bart. The minister's stipend is £204, with a manse, a
glebe of twelve acres, valued at £15, and a right to fuel,
which has been commuted for an annual payment of
£9. 8. 10. The church, a plain building, standing in
the village, is supposed, from the date of 1613 on its
fine old belfry, to have been built in that year ; it was
well-roofed in 1789, and new-seated in 1793, and con-
tains 460 sittings, of which sixty are under the controul
of the Kirk Session, and are let on very low terms for
the benefit of the poor. The members of the Free
Church have a place of worship. The parochial school
affords instruction in Greek, Latin, English grammar,
geography, and mathematics, in addition to the ordi-
nary branches ; the master has a salary of £27, with a
house and garden, and about £15 fees : he also par-
ticipates in the benefit of the Dick bequest. There is
likewise a school supported by the General Assembly,
the master of which receives a salary of £25, with £14
fees, and has a house, garden, and three acres of ground.
The same branches are taught as in the parochial school;
and its situation among the glens of Foudland, conve-
nient for parts, not only of Insch, but of the parishes
of Forgue, Drumblade, and Gartly, all far removed from
their respective parochial schools, renders it a source of
much advantage. A savings' bank has also existed for
some years. The relics of antiquity comprise several
Druidical remains, on eminences, and stone pillars, and
obelisks ; but the principal one is the celebrated vitri-
fied fort on the hill of Dunnideer. It consists of an
outwork in the shape of a parallelogram, inclosing an
old ruin of a tower ; and the stones, which are of gra-
nite, have been cemented by that singular process seen
564
in similar antiquities in the country, but of the precise
character of which many opinions exist. A castle in
the interior, constructed apparently of the materials of
the vitrified fort, is supposed by some to have been
built by King Gregory.
INSH, lately a quoad sacra parish, formed of part
of the parish of Kingussie, and a small part of that of
Alvie, in the county of Inverness; containing 613 in-
habitants, of whom 88 are in the village of Insh, 7 miles
(N. E.) from Pitmain. This place was anciently a vica-
rage, united to the rectory of Kingussie; and by act of
the General Assembly in 1S33, was again declared a dis-
tinct parish, ecclesiastically, which privilege, however, it
has ceased to possess. It is situated on the south bank
of the Spey ; and when the river swells, a branch of it
flows on each side of a small hill whereon the church
stands : hence the name of Insh, signifying an island. The
Spey passes here through a fine lake called Loch Insh,
about a mile and a half in length and nearly the same
in breadth ; and close to its eastern margin is the man-
sion-house of Invereshie, where is a ferry across the Spey.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the presbytery of
Abernethy and synod of Moray, and the patronage is
vested in the Crown : the stipend of the minister is
£120, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £2. 10. per
annum. The church is dedicated to St. Ewan. A school
is supported by a committee of the General Assembly.
A considerable increase in the population of this district
took place within the decennial period between the late
and preceding census.
INVER, a village, in the parish of Little Dun-
keld, county of Perth, £ a mile (W. S. W.) from Dun-
keld ; containing 106 inhabitants. This is a small
place, situated at the confluence of the rivers Tay and
Bran, and on the great Highland road from Perth to
Inverness. Before the bridge of Dunkeld was built,
here was a ferry across the Tay. The celebrated com-
poser of Scotch reels, Neil Gow, was a native of the vil-
lage.— See Dunkeld, Little.
INVER, a village, in the parish of Tain, county of
Ross and Cromarty, 4§ miles (E. by N.) from Tain ;
containing 211 inhabitants. This village is situated at
the eastern extremity of the parish, on the shore of
Dornoch Frith ; and is inhabited chiefly by persons
employed in the fishery, for which it forms the princi-
pal station. The fish taken here are, haddock, floun-
ders, cod, whiting, and skate, which are found in great
abundance, for the supply of the adjacent district ; and
during the season, herrings are also plentiful. A school
for the instruction of the children of the fishermen, who
speak chiefly the Gaelic language, is supported in the
village, by the Society for Propagating Christian Know-
ledge.
INVERALLOCHY, a village, in the parish of Ra-
then, district of Deer, county of Aberdeen, 4 miles
(E. S. E.) from Fraserburgh ; containing 507 inhabit-
ants. This village is situated on the north-eastern shore
of the parish, on the German Ocean, a short distance
eastward from Cairnbulg Point, and nearly adjoining
the fishing-town of Cairnbulg. The male population
consists chiefly of fishermen, who with their families
remove in the summer season to Fraserburgh, where
they assist in the herring-fishery of that place. On the
shore here is an abundance of sea- weed, which is largely
used in manuring the neighbouring lands. Until of
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late, kelp was manufactured to some extent ; the re-
duced value of the article, however, has led almost to
the abandonment of its manufacture in this quarter.
The castle of Inveralloehy, now in ruins, appears to
have been a place of considerable strength ; it was
anciently the property of the Cumyns, Earls of Buchan.
There is a place of worship for members of the Free
Church.
INVERARITY, a parish, in the county of Forfak,
4| miles (S.) from Forfar ; containing 997 inhabitants.
This place derives its name from a Celtic term descrip-
tive of the locality of its church, which, till the year
1754, was situated near the spot where the river Arity is
joined, almost at right angles, by the Corbie burn, at a
small distance from the present house of Fothringham.
The parish comprehends the ancient parish of Meathie ; it
measures three miles square, and contains about 6000
acres. It is bounded on the north by the parish of
Forfar ; on the south by the parishes of Monikie and
Murroes ; on the east by Guthrie and Dunnichen ; and
on the west by Kinnettles, Tealing, and Glammis. The
surface is uneven, consisting of a valley, well cultivated
and fenced, surrounded by rising grounds and hills of
various elevation, some of which are richly wooded.
The soil on the higher lands is a dark loam ; in several
places, it is alluvial ; its ordinary character, however, is
that of clay. About 4000 acres are cultivated; 1000
are waste, consisting of coarse pasture and moor ; and
the remainder are plantations, composed of oak, beech,
plane, and all the firs usually grown in the country.
The annual value of the produce is considerable, grain
of every kind forming a prominent article : all the vari-
ous green crops are raised, and of good quality. The
common breed of cattle is the Angus or native black, to
which great attention is paid. The best system of
agriculture is followed ; and extensive drainage, the in-
closing with hedges or stone dykes, and marl-manuring,
with various other improvements in husbandry, have
been carried on to such an extent that very little re-
mains to be done. The prevailing rocks are sandstone
and grey slate, several quarries of which are extensively
wrought. The mansions are those of Fothringham, the
seat of the ancient family of that name, and the House
of Kinealdrum. Four miles of the turnpike-road from
Forfar to Dundee pass through the parish ; and a coach
from Aberdeen to Edinburgh, and another from Bre-
chin to Dundee, travel daily upon it. The rateable
annual value of the parish is £5593. The ecclesiastical
affairs are subject to the presbytery of Forfar and synod
of Angus and Mearns ; patrons, the family of Fothring-
ham, of Powrie. The stipend of the minister is £300,
with a good manse, and a glebe of twelve acres. The
church, in the centre of the parish, was built in 1/54, is
in good repair, and will accommodate 600 persons with
sittings. There is a parochial school, in which Latin is
taught, with the usual branches of education ; the mas-
ter has the maximum salary, with fees to the annual
amount of about £27. The chief relic of antiquity is
the Roman camp called " Haer Faads," part of which
lies in the parish of Guthrie ; it is nearly a parallelo-
gram, measuring about 300 yards by 700. At the Kirk
Brae, near the dene of Fothringham, is the last vestige
of the old church. James Webster, the traveller in
Egypt, &c, whose posthumous works have been pub-
lished; Drummond, the botanist, who died some time
565
Burgh Seal.
since ; and the mother of the distinguished Professor
Playfair, were natives of the parish ; as was also, it is
conjectured, Archibald Constable, the celebrated book-
seller of Edinburgh, and publisher of Sir Walter Scott's
works.
INVERARY, a royal
burgh, the county town, and
a parish, in the district and
county of Argyll, 60 miles
(N. W. by W.) from Glasgow,
and 114 (W. N. W.) from
Edinburgh ; containing 2285
inhabitants, of whom 1233
J?£ are in the burgh. This place
§Oi^ takes its name from its situ-
ation at the mouth of the
river Aray, which here falls
into Loch Fyne. It appears
to have been for many years only an inconsiderable
hamlet consisting of a few fishermen's huts, prior to the
fourteenth century, when the Campbell family, selecting
it as their principal residence, erected a baronial castle,
around which the original town gradually arose. In
1742, Archibald, third Duke of Argyll, pulled down the
houses that had been raised nearly contiguous to the
castle, and built others, of superior character, on grounds
which he gave to the inhabitants at a nominal rent. In
1745 he commenced the erection of the present mag-
nificent castle, which, after a short interruption during
the time of the rebellion, was completed at. an expense
of nearly £300,000, when the ancient castle was taken
down. In 174S, the Duke introduced the linen manu-
facture, which was carried on for some time with con-
siderable benefit to the inhabitants ; and in 177°> his
distant relative, John, the fifth duke, established a
woollen manufacture at the Water of Douglas. For this
purpose he built premises, erected machinery, and pro-
vided every requisite, at his own expense ; giving the
farm on which the factory was built, and the works, at
a low rent, to a person who carried on the manufacture
for a time with tolerable success.
The present town is beautifully situated on the west-
ern shore of Loch Fyne, and to the south of the plea-
sure-grounds of the castle, of which it commands an
interesting view. The houses are substantially built,
and of handsome appearance ; the streets are extremely
clean, and lighted with gas, and the inhabitants are
amply supplied with water. The principal trade carried
on here at present is the herring-fishery, for which the
season commences generally about the end of June, and
continues till the beginning of January ; and the fisher-
men, during the interval, are many of them employed
in agriculture. The number of boats engaged in the
fishery averages from fifty to sixty, employing about
110 men and fifty boys ; and nearly 140 persons are
occupied in curing and packing the fish, of which, on
the average, about 2000 barrels are exported. The har-
bour is not adapted for vessels of any considerable bur-
then; and previously to 1S09 the quay was in a very
bad state ; but a good pier has since been constructed,
which, in 1836, was extended at an expense of £1200,
whereof £S00 were contributed by the Fishery Board,
and the remainder by the Duke of Argyll and the cor-
porationof the town. The post-office has a daily deli-
very. A ferry to the opposite shore of Loch Fyne is
I N VE
I N V E
kept up by the corporation ■ and great facilities of com-
munication are afforded by steamers. The market is
well supplied with provisions ; and fairs are held an-
nually on the 1/th of May and 16th of September, for
cattle, and on the 15th of July, for wool.
The first notice of the place occurs in a charter granted
to Colin, first Earl of Argyll, erecting the town into a
burgh of barony ; and it was subsequently made a royal
burgh by charter of Charles I. while a prisoner in
Carisbrooke Castle, vesting the government in a pro-
vost, four bailies, and a council. Since the passing of
the Municipal Reform act, however, the corporation has
consisted of a provost, two bailies, and sixteen council-
lors. The magistrates exercise both civil and criminal
jurisdiction within the burgh, with the exception of the
castle and park of Inverary ; but the former kind of
jurisdiction has been almost superseded by the sheriff's
small-debt court, and the latter is limited to petty riots
and assaults. The burgh is associated with those
of Oban, Campbelltown, Rothesay, Irvine, and Ayr, in
returning a member to the imperial parliament. The
number of £10 householders within the parliamentary
boundaries is sixty-three, of whom thirty-one are bur-
gesses ; and of those above £5, and below £10, twenty-
three, of whom four are burgesses. The town -hall, in
which the courts for the burgh and for the count}' are
held, is a handsome building, and contains a spacious
court-room. Attached to it is a prison, containing five
apartments for debtors, and eight cells for criminals ;
but a much larger prison has been just erected, conti-
guous to the old one.
The parish, which comprises the ancient parishes of
Kilmilieu and denary, now united, is situated between
the lochs Awe and Fyue, and bounded on the south and
east by the latter, along which it extends for about ten
miles, in the form of a crescent, presenting an outline of
projecting rocks indented with bays. It is sixteen miles
in extreme length, varying from three to six miles in
breadth, and is supposed to comprise an area of fifty-
two square miles, or 34,280 acres, of which by far the
greater portion is in pasture. The surface is moun-
tainous, and of great diversity of character. The highest
of the mountains is Benbui, which has an elevation of
2800 feet ; and in front of the castle are two perpen-
dicular masses of porphyritic rocks, called Dunchuaich
and Dunchorvil, of which the former is 700, and the
latter S00, feet high. The headlands of Kenmore and
Stronshira command an interesting view of the parish.
The shores are generally smooth and level ; but towards
the southern extremity, the rocks rise precipitously from
the lake, and assume a bold rugged aspect. The chief
rivers are, the Shira, which flows through the vale of
Glenshira into the Douloch, or "black lake;" and the
Aray, flowing through denary into Loch Fyne. A river
called the Gear-Amhuinn, or " short river," connects
the Douloch with Loch Fyne. The lochs abound with
salmon, trout, and other kinds of fish ; and salmon-
trout, herrings, cod, and flounders are often taken to-
gether in the same net. The soil near the shore is
chiefly a thin light loam, on a gravelly bottom ; at the
bases of the mountains, in the valleys, a deep dark loam
on sand and clay; and in other parts, moss, with a
small quantity of earth washed down from the higher
grounds. The system of agriculture in the valleys is in
an improved condition; but in the higher lands, so
566
much progress has not been made, as the farms contain
a much larger portion of pasture than of arable ground.
The buildings on the principal farms are substantial,
and handsomely built ; but many of those on the smaller
farms are of very inferior order. Great regard is paid
to the rearing of cattle, which are generally of the
West Highland breed ; little attention is bestowed on
the dairy, but for some years the Highland Society have
awarded prizes for the best samples of cheese. The
sheep, of which great numbers are reared, are of the
black-faced breed ; the horses are partly of a mixed
breed between the native and the Clydesdale. Consi-
derable numbers of pigs are also fed for market. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £6836, of which
£1973 are returned for the burgh.
The substrata are chiefly mica-slaje intersected with
porphyry, limestone, and greenstone ; and many of
the rocks abound with garnet, and occasionally with
felspar. There is an extensive quarry of good paving
stone, from which are raised great quantities for the
city of Glasgow. The plantations are in a very thriving
condition ; they consist mostly of oak, Scotch fir,
spruce, larch, ash, beech, and plane. They were chiefly
formed by the first Marquess of Argyll and his son, the
ninth earl, and by Archibald, third duke, and his suc-
cessors ; and are supposed to occupy an area of about
12,000 acres. Among the earliest were those of Dun-
chuaich and the heights above the castle of Inverary,
including the stately avenue of beech at the entrance of
the vale of Glenshira ; and among the more recent are
those of the hills of Douloch and Stronshira, which
contain some beautiful specimens of larch, Norway
spruce, and American black and white spruce, silver fir,
laburnum, and lime. The mansion of Inverary Castle,
the seat of the Duke of Argyll, erected near the site of
the ancient baronial castle, is a spacious quadrangular
structure, with circular towers at the angles. The great,
hall is ornamented with ancient armour, among which
are 150 stand of arms used by the Campbells at the
battle of Culloden, ranged on each side : in a circular
recess fronting the entrance, are various specimens of
Highland armour. The gallery leading to the principal
apartments is spacious, and superbly decorated ; and
the paintings, family portraits, and tapestry are all of
the very highest order. The demesne, which is nearly
thirty miles in circuit, is tastefully embellished, and laid
out in walks and rides, comprising much picturesque
and romantic scenery, and commanding extensive and
richly-diversified prospects. A noble avenue of stately
trees of ancient growth leads into the beautiful glen of
Essachossan.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Inverary, of which this is
the seat, and of the synod of Argyll. There are two
charges : the minister of the first has a stipend of
£168. 15., of which one-third is paid from the exchequer,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £45 per annum ;
and the minister of the second charge, a stipend of
£157. 15., of which four-fifths are derived from the
exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per
annum ; patron of both, the Duke of Argyll. The
church, erected in 1798, and repaired, after being greatly
damaged by a storm, in 183S, is a spacious and hand-
some structure, with a central tower and spire 115 feet
in height, dividing it into two distinct portions, one for
I N V E
I N V E
the first or Gaelic church, containing 450, and the other
for the English congregation, containing 410 sittings.
There are places of worship for members of the Free
Church, and for the United Associate Synod. The
grammar school is under the patronage of the corpora-
tion, and the master has a salary of £20, with the
usual accommodations : the burgh parochial school-
master has £25. 13. 4. a year, with a house, &c. A
female school in the burgh is supported by the Duke
of Argyll, who pays the teacher £20 per annum, to
which £4 are added by the council ; and a female school
of industry, also in the burgh, is supported by the
duchess, who allows £26, with a dwelling-house, coal,
and other perquisites. In the rural districts of the
parish are, a parochial school, of which the master has
a salary of £25. 13., with a house and garden; a school
maintained by the Society for Propagating Christian
Knowledge, of which the master has a salary of £15,
to which the duke adds £18, with a house and gar-
den, fuel, and grass for a cow; and a female school, the
teacher of which has £5 from the society, and a house
from the duke. The poor, of whom the average number
on the parish list is fifty, are supported partly by col-
lections at the church, averaging £65 annually, and the
interest of funds in the hands of the Kirk Session, pro-
ducing nearly £10 ; but chiefly by the Duke of Argyll,
who, in various ways, distributes not less than £300
annually for their relief. There are some slight ves-
tiges of an old fort at Dunchuaich ; of the ancient
castle of the Mac Naughtens, on the banks of Douloch ;
and of some r-eligious houses at Kilbride and Achan-
tiobairt. The market-cross, supposed to have been
brought from Iona, was removed from the old town,
and erected in the present burgh ; and on the lawn
around Iuverary Castle is an upright stone, thought to
have been erected in commemoration of some battle
near the spot. Over the water of Douglas is a very
ancient bridge of one arch, forming the segment of a
circle, and thence called the Roman bridge ; but the
date of its erection is unknown. Dr. Claudius Buchanan
is supposed to have been a native of this place, which
gives the title of Baron to the Campbell family, dukes
of Argyll.
INVERAVEN, a parish, partly in the county of
Elgin, but chiefly in the county of Banff, 11 miles
(N. E. by E.) from Grantown ; containing 2417 inha-
bitants. This place derives its name from its situation
at the mouth of the river Aven, which has its source in
a lake of that name at. the base of the mountains Ben-
macdui, Bein-na-main, and Cairngorum, and after re-
ceiving various streams in its course, enters the parish,
and falls into the Spey about a mile above the church.
The parish is chiefly noticed in historical records as
the scene of a memorable battle which occurred in 1594,
between the Earl of Huntly and the Marquess of Argyll,
when the latter, after an obstinate engagement, in which
many were slain on both sides, was totally defeated.
Not far from the field of battle is a tumulus called Lord
Auchindown's Cairn, pointing out the spot where Sir P.
Gordon, of Auchindown, was killed while fighting on
the side of the Earl of Huntly. The parish is bounded
on the north-west by the river Spey, and is about twenty
miles in length, and varies from nearly four miles to
eight or nine in breadth ; it comprises 6400 acres of
arable land in good cultivation, about 1000 in plantations,
567
and 500 in natural wood, with a wide extent of heath
and moor. The surface is mountainous, with large in-
tervening tracts of moorland ; and the lower part, near
the Spey, is divided from the district of Glcnlivet,
forming the rest of the parish, by the Cairnocay moun-
tains, a lofty range extending, in a direction almost
parallel with the river, from the hill of Benrinnes to
the stream of the Aven. The district of Glcnlivet is
separated into two nearly equal portions by the hill of
Bochle, which rises to a considerable elevation from the
centre of the vale, which is watered by the Livet, a
tributary to the Aven. On this river was formerly a
waterfall called the Linn of Livet ; but it was destroyed
in order to give a readier passage to the salmon that
frequent that stream. The Spey, which washes the
parish for several miles, abounds with various kinds of
fish, and was formerly much celebrated for the size and
flavour of its salmon, which were found in greater num-
bers than at present, both in that river and in the
Aven ; but the fishery has been much diminished by
the establishment of others nearer the mouth of the
Spey, which prevent many of the fish from ascending
so far up. In that part of the parish bordering on
Kirkmichael is a small lake formed by the river Aven,
and supposed to be almost of unfathomable depth.
The soil of the cultivated lands, though inferior in
some places, is generally fertile, consisting, in the lower
portion, of loam partly mixed with gravel, and in the
district of Glenlivet of pure loam and a rich strong clay.
Considerable improvements have been made in the
agriculture of the parish ; large tracts of waste have
been drained, and brought into cultivation ; and nume-
rous thriving plantations have been raised, especially
near the Spey, in Inveraven Proper, which abounds with
ornamental timber. The principal crop is oats, with
a good proportion of barley ; and wheat is also raised
occasionally in small quantities, of good quality, in the
low end of Glenlivet. The plantations consist of larch,
oak, and mountain-ash, which grow luxuriantly on the
banks of the Spey and Aven ; and Scotch and spruce
firs, of which there are some beautiful specimens. The
Highland and Agricultural Society encourage the breed
of live stock by the distribution of premiums ; but
comparatively little attention is paid to improvement
in this respect. The sheep are generally of the black-
faced kind, with a few of English breed, which are not
so well adapted to the soil ; the breed of horses is
rather small, but better suited to the state of the
country than those of larger size. The farm-buildings
are usually commodious, though still capable of great
improvement; and in several parts, especially m Glen-
livet, are several of very superior character. The vale
of Glenlivet was formerly noted for the manufacture of
illicit spirits ; and on almost every stream in the parish
were houses for traffic in smuggled whisky ; but this
practice has of late materially diminished, and there are
now in the vale two very extensive distilleries, where
whisky of the best quality is legally produced, which
obtains a high price in every part of the country. There
are several mills in the parish ; also some small manu-
factories for woollen cloths and plaidings, chiefly under
the management of the farmers. The rateable annual
value of Inveraven is £5032.
Ballindalloch House, in the parish, is a perfect speci-
men of the old Scottish castle ; it is a square edifice
INVE
I N VE
with three circular towers, and some additions have
been made to the old building during the last century.
It is situated about half a mile from the confluence of
the Aven with the river Spey, and is richly embellished
with timber, and surrounded by scenery of interesting
character. At a short distance may still be traced the
foundations of the original castle, which has long been
suffered to fall into decay, and almost into oblivion, the
only memorial being preserved in a traditionary legend,
by which its restoration is said to have been prohibited.
The farm-house of Colquoich is conspicuous for the
abundance of Scotch fir and larch which grow luxu-
riantly in the surrounding plantations. The substratum
of the parish is generally primitive rock : red granite,
of good quality for building, is found near the river
Spey, and on the north of the Benrinnes mountain, in
which asbestos has also been discovered. Limestone,
embedded in gneiss, is found in the vale of Glenlivet ;
no regular quarries have been opened, but it is fre-
quently dug by the tenants on the different farms, for
their own use ; and numerous limekilns have been
erected in various parts of the vale. The roads and
bridges are kept in good repair ; and considerable in-
tercourse is maintained with the villages of Tomantoul
and Charlestown, respectively three miles from each
extremity of the parish, where markets are occasionally
held, and also with Grantown and Dufftown. Fairs are
held at Burnside, about a mile from the church, on the
Tuesday before the third Friday in February, the Tues-
day before the 26th of May, the second Tuesday in
July, O. S., and the Tuesday before the 23d November,
for the sale of horses, cattle, and grain, and also for
hiring servants.
The parish is in the presbytery of Aberlour and synod
of Moray, and in the gift of the Earl of Seafield; the
minister's stipend is £238. 1/. 11., with a manse, and
a glebe valued at £7 per annum. The church, which
was erected in 1806, is in good repair, and affords
accommodation to about 550 persons. In Glenlivet is
a missionary station, supported by the Royal Bounty :
the chapel was erected, or rather rebuilt, in 1S25. The
minister has a salary of £60, with a small farm, a house,
and a range of hill pasture for sheep, on the Gordon
estate. There are also in the vale two Roman Ca-
tholic chapels, the one at Tombia, and the other at
Chapelton ; the former will contain a congregation of
nearly 1000, and the latter of about 300 persons. The
parochial school affords education to about fifty chil-
dren ; the master has a salary of £28. 17- 5., with £11
fees, a house and garden, and a portion of the Dick
bequest. There are two male, and one female school,
for Protestants, in the vale of Glenlivet; the masters
derive their salaries from, the Society for Propagating
Christian Knowledge, and the General Assembly's Com-
mittee for Highland schools, and have houses and gar-
dens on the Gordon estate : the mistress of the female
school has likewise a house, &c, and is paid £5 per
annum, in addition to a similar sum from the society.
In Glenlivet are likewise three Roman Catholic schools,
two for females, and one for males, all supported by
funds contributed by the congregations at the two
chapels. Various traces of Druidical establishments
exist in several parts of the parish, of which the most
considerable are at Chapelton, on the farm of Kil-
machlie, where, also, ancient coins of silver, of the size
568
of half-crowns, and some old weapons, have been dis-
covered by the plough. The cemetery of a religious
house formerly existing at Downan is still used as a
burial-ground, as is also that of another, at Buitterlach,
near which is a cairn of large dimensions. On the farm
of Haughs, at Kilmachlie, is a spot of ground supposed
to have been anciently a place of sepulture, and which
has been recently planted with trees. A portion of the
old castle of Drumin occupies an elevated site on a
promontory, near the confluence of the rivers Livet
and Aven ; the walls on the east and north sides are
of considerable height, and of massive thickness. At
Blairnndy are the ruins of a hunting-seat formerly
belonging to the earls of Huntly.
INVERBERVIE, county of Haddington.— See
Bervie.
INVERBROTHOCK, lately a quoad sacra parish,
in the parish of St. Vigean's, county of Forfar ; con-
taining 5195 inhabitants. This place, which is situated
on the small river Brothock, forms the principal suburb
of the town of Arbroath, and participates largely in the
manufactures carried on in that burgh. The spinning of
hemp and flax gives employment to more than 1500 of
the inhabitants; and the yarn produced from the several
mills is partly exported, and partly woven by hand. About
300 persons are employed in weaving the coarser kinds
of linen, for sacking, and for sail-cloth for the supply of
the shipping. The terminus of the Arbroath and Forfar
railway is within this district ; and facility of commu-
nication is also afforded by the Dundee and Arbroath
railway, the great north road, and various other roads.
The church was erected in 1S28, at an expense of about
£2000, raised by subscription, towards which the town
council of Arbroath and the principal heritors largely
contributed; it is a neat structure containing 1230 sit-
tings. The minister, who is chosen by the proprietors of
the pews, has a stipend of £150, with an allowance of
£20 for communion elements. There are places of wor-
ship for members of the Free Church, Original Seceders,
and a congregation of Wesleyans. A handsome school-
room was erected in the year 1842, by subscription,
aided by a grant from government ; it is capable of
receiving 250 scholars, and the school is supported
wholly by the fees. There is a Sabbath school library,
containing 480 volumes ; also a theological library of
400 volumes.
INVERCHAOLAIN, a parish, in the district of
Cowal, county of Argyll, 7 miles (N.) from Rothe-
say ; containing 699 inhabitants. The name of this
place is derived from the Chaolain, a small stream which,
at this part, joins Loch Straven, or Striven, an arm of
the sea intersecting the parish in a northern direction.
Inverchaolain is situated in the south-eastern division
of the county, and is about fifteen miles long, and eight
miles in extreme breadth, including the loch ; it com-
prises upwards of 40,000 acres, of which 1300 are
arable, 1500 low pasture, nearly 1500 wood, and the
remainder hill pasture. The surface is irregular, and
rises in the form of elevated ranges on each side of
the lake, which is more than nine miles long, and
about two broad at the entrance, but narrowing as it
penetrates into the country. The depth varies in the
middle from twenty to fifty or sixty fathoms, but is in
general more shallow towards the shores, which in many
parts are smooth and sandy, offering excellent facilities
I N VE
I N V E
for bathing. The only other waters connected with the
parish, except a few rivulets, which exhibit several in-
teresting cascades, are the Kyles of Bute and Loch Ridon
or Riddan, forming respectively the south-western and
western boundaries, and affording herrings and the
ordinary white-fish. The whole of the sea-shore be-
longing to the parish measures between thirty and forty
miles.
Near the coast the soil is light and sandy, mixed in
some parts with moss ; in the more inland tracts it runs
through several varieties, and much of the earth is of
a red cast. Agriculture is in a very low state, the old
system of cultivation generally prevailing. Most of the
land is laid out in sheep-farms, merely interspersed with
arable tracts, and held on lease for only nine years.
Some parts, however, form an exception ; are highly cul-
tivated, drained, and fenced ; and have very comfortable
houses, the leases running for nineteen years. The
sheep, usually numbering upwards of 10,000, are of the
black-faced kind, excepting a few Leicesters, fed on the
lower grounds. Considerable numbers of cows, chiefly
cthe Argyllshire, with some of the Ayrshire for the dairy,
are kept ; and about 200 calves are annually reared.
The cattle are generally disposed of to the drovers, for
the low country markets ; the sheep are sold to the
Greenock, Glasgow, Rothesay, or Dunoon butchers.
The strata of the parish comprise chiefly mica-slate, and
a variety of hard common rocks lying in beds, with
many whinstone dykes. Limestone was formerly quar-
ried ; but it has been superseded by Irish lime in shell,
the latter being of superior quality and less expensive.
The wood comprehends about 440 acres of thriving
plantations, principally larch, spruce-fir, oak, ash, and
birch : there are also 1000 acres of oak coppice, the
periodical cuttings of which make a profitable return.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £3283. The
mansion of Southhall, situated near the opening to the
East Kyles of Bute, embraces beautiful views of the Frith
of Clyde ; and at Gortan, on the eastern side of Loch
Straven, a cottage has recently been built, surrounded
with nearly 100 acres of plantations, and commanding
fine prospects of Rothesay bay, with Ayrshire and Arran
in the distance.
The inhabitants are scattered in various directions,
and are chiefly employed in agriculture, but mostly keep
nets for taking, at the proper seasons, the fish with
which the different waters abound, comprising all kinds
of white-fish, with herrings, and tolerable quantities of
lobsters, crabs, and other shell-fish. The peat obtained
in the district is used for fuel ; but the people more
frequently burn coal, brought from various places. The
parish is tolerably well supplied with roads, some of
which are kept in very good order. A fair is held in
November, for the sale of black-cattle. Inverchaolain
is in the presbytery of Dunoon and synod of Argyll,
and in the patronage of the Marquess of Bute. The
minister's stipend is £150, of which a part is received
from the exchequer, with a manse, and a glebe of nearly
five acres, valued at £13. 10. per annum. The church,
built in 1812, is situated on an eminence, and sur-
rounded by a picturesque burial-ground ; it contains
250 sittings, and forms that accommodate about forty
more. A chapel, connected with the Establishment, and
situated on the East Kyles of Bute, was opened in 1840,
having been built by subscription, and a contribution
Vol. I.— 569
from the General Assembly's church-extension fund.
There are two schools in the parish ; the masters have
salaries of £22 and £11 respectively, and the fees. In
a small island in Loch Riddan is the ruin of the ancient
castle of Elland-heirrig, fortified by the Earl of Argyll
when he made his descent upon Scotland in 1685, and
which is seen by passengers in steam-boats passing
along the Kyles of Bute. The island, and the property
lying in the vicinity, were at that period possessed by a
family named Campbell, now extinct, who had other
very considerable lands in this part of Scotland, and
were of some celebrity as warriors.
INVERCRUDEN, Aberdeenshire.— See Cruden.
INVERESK, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh,
5 miles (E. by S ) from Edinburgh ; containing, with
the town of Musselburgh, and the villages of Monkton-
hall, Cowpits, Craighall, Stoneyhill, and part of New
Craighall, S263 inhabitants, of whom 211 are in the
village of Inveresk. This place derives its name from
its situation near the influx of the river Esk into a bay
on the south shore of the Frith of Forth. The parish
is about three miles in length and two and a half in
breadth, comprising 4000 acres, of which, with the ex-
ception of a small portion of woodland and planta-
tions, the whole is arable, and in a high state of culti-
vation. The surface, though generally level, and sloping
towards the coast, is pleasingly varied with gentle un-
dulations, which, in the direction of the southern boun-
dary of the parish, terminate in a ridge, though of in-
considerable height, having an elevation of little more
than 500 feet above the level of the sea. Along the
shore of the Frith are some beautiful downs of great
extent, well adapted for the celebration of public games,
and on which a fine race-course has been formed, and
a handsome and commodious stand erected. The river
Esk, combining the waters of the North Esk, which has
its source in the Pentland hills, and of the South Esk,
which rises in the Moorfoot range, flows from Dalkeith
Park (within which the two streams unite), in a pleasing
winding course through the parish, and falls into the
bay of Musselburgh. Salmon are found in the river,
though not in any considerable numbers ; and off the
coast are taken haddock, cod, flounders, whiting, and
occasionally soles and mackerel.
The soil near the village is a light sandy loam, of
great fertility ; and on the higher grounds, a deep clayey
loam ; the whole producing exuberant crops of wheat,
barley, oats, peas, beans, potatoes, and turnips. The
system of husbandry has been brought to great perfec-
tion, and the lands generally are in the highest state of
cultivation ; the farm-houses are substantially built and
well arranged, and on most of the farms are threshing-
mills, some of which are worked by steam. The lands
have been well drained, and inclosed either with stone
walls or hedges of thorn ; and all the more recent im-
provements in the construction of agricultural imple-
ments have been adopted. The cattle reared are not
confined to any particular breed; the horses are usually
the Clydesdale, and the sheep of the Cheviot and Lei-
cestershire breeds. A considerable portion of land is
cultivated as gardens ; and large quantities of fruit,
flowers, and vegetables are raised for the supply of the
Edinburgh and Glasgow markets. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £26,677- The plantations are,
ash, oak, elm, plane, beech, larch, and Scotch and spruce
4D
IN VE
IN VE
firs, with a few pines, all of which seem well adapted to
the soil, and are in a thriving state. The principal sub-
strata are, coal, freestone, and limestone. The coal-
field extends under the whole of the parish, on both
sides of the river Esk, and contains forty seams, vary-
ing from two and a half to nine feet in thickness : of
these seams three are wrought, which are respectively
three, four and a half, and four feet thick, and at
depths of nine, twelve, and ninety fathoms. The chief
collieries now in operation are at New Craighall, Monk-
tonhall, and Edmonstone : at New Craighall a steam-
engine of 140-horse power was many years ago erected,
at an expense of £6000, by Messrs. Claud Girdwood
and Company, for drawing off the water. Another, of
still greater power, has recently been erected. There
were formerly collieries at Pinkie-burn, Midfield, and
Cowpits ; but the workings have been abandoned.
Several quarries of limestone are wrought to a consi-
derable extent ; and a further supply of that material
may readily be obtained from Cousland, in the adjoin-
ing parish of Cranston.
Among the principal mansions in the parish is Pinkie
House, the seat of Sir John Hope, Bart., anciently the
country residence of the abbots of Dunfermline, and,
according to an inscription in front of the building, en-
larged or improved by Lord Seton, in 1613. The most
ancient portion is a massive square tower, crowned with
turrets, and of which the walls are of immense thick-
ness, and the ground-floor strongly vaulted. The man-
sion in its present state, though only part of a more
magnificent structure, is spacious, and contains many
splendid apartments, in one of which, called the king's
room, the abbot entertained his sovereign. The painted
gallery, which is 120 feet in length, and decorated with
an enriched ceiling painted in device, was used as an
hospital for the wounded, after the battle of Pinkie ;
and Prince Charles Edward slept in the apartment on
the night after the battle of Prestonpans. Carberry
House is beautifully situated on the acclivity of Carberry
hill, upon the summit of which is still pointed out. the
place where Mary, Queen of Scots, sat, while holding
a conference with Kirkaldy of Grange. The mansion,
which is of great antiquity, has within the last thirty
years been repaired, and partly modernised ; it com-
mands a fine prospect embracing the Frith of Forth.
The grounds are tastefully embellished, and enriched
with groves and avenues of oak, chesnut, and beech, of
stately and venerable growth. There are numerous other
mansions, of which the principal are, Stoneyhill House,
anciently the seat of the son of Archbishop Sharpe ;
Monkton House, said to have been built by General
Monk ; and New Hailes, formerly the seat of Lord
Hailes, author of the Annals of Scotland. The grounds
of the last are pleasingly laid out ; and near the house
is a column, erected to the memory of the Earl of Stair.
The village of Inveresk is situated on rising ground over-
looking the picturesque and fertile valley of the Esk ;
and from the mildness of the climate, and the interest-
ing variety of the scenery around, it has long been
distinguished as the " Montpelier " of Scotland, and
selected as a favourite place of residence.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Dalkeith and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is
£324. 11., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £22 per
570
aiinuni ; patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. There is also
an assistant minister, who receives the interest of a
bequest of £340, £5 from seat-rents, and from £35 to
£40 from his office as session-clerk. The church of St.
Michael, a spacious building, supposed to have been
erected soon after the introduction of Christianity into
Britain, was taken down in 1804, and a new structure
erected on its site in 1806. The present church, con-
taining 2400 sittings, is a plain edifice in the Grecian
style of architecture, with a lofty tower and spire, form-
ing a conspicuous landmark, and towards the building
of which a contribution was made by the Commissioners
of Northern Lighthouses. A church has been built in
Fisherrow, in the parish ; and there are places of wor-
ship for members of the Free Church, the Relief, United
Secession, Independents, and Wesleyans ; and an epis-
copal chapel. A grammar school, at Musselburgh, is
supported under the patronage of the magistrates and
town council, who give the master a salary of £27. 4. 5.,
in addition to the house and schoolroom. There are
also English schools in Musselburgh and Fisherrow, of
which the masters receive salaries of £12 and £17, re-
spectively, from the corporation funds. The relics of
antiquity that have been discovered in various parts of
the parish, afford striking evidence that this place was
not merely a military station, but evidently a Roman
colony, or municipum. The ancient church of St.
Michael was built on the site, and partly with the ma-
terials, of the praetorium of a Roman camp on Inveresk
hill. Foundations of baths, and numerous other ves-
tiges of Roman occupation, have been discovered at
different times. Among these were, a votive altar in-
scribed Apollini Granno ; a golden coin of Trajan, much
obliterated ; and a copper medal with the inscription
Diva Faustina. Walker, an eminent engraver of por-
traits, and Burnet, a distinguished historical engraver,
•were natives of the parish, as is, also, Alexander Ritchie,
who has excelled as a sculptor. Logan, the poet,
was educated in the grammar school. — See Mussel-
burgh, Northesk, &c.
INVERGORDON, a village and small sea-port, in
the parish of Rosskeen, mainland district of the county
of Ross and Cromarty, 19 miles (N. E.) from Ding-
wall ; containing 998 inhabitants. This place, which
is situated on the north shore of Cromarty Frith, at
nearly an equal distance from Tain and Dingwall, has
greatly increased in importance since the construction
of a commodious harbour by Roderick Mc Leod, Esq.,
in 1S28, at a cost of more than £5000. The village is
neatly built, and the surrounding scenery derives much
additional beauty from the pleasure-grounds of Inver-
gordon Castle, in its immediate vicinity. A subscrip-
tion library has been established. A cattle-show takes
place annually ; there are numerous inns for the accom-
modation of travellers ; and from its central situation,
the place is rapidly advancing. The harbour is accessi-
ble to vessels of large burthen. The port carries on an
extensive trade in the exportation of grain, cattle,
horses, sheep, pigs, and all the various kinds of agri-
cultural produce ; and is one of the most frequented in
Easter and Wester Ross. A substantial pier has been
erected for the loading and unloading of vessels, and
also a slip for building and repairing ships. A wooden
jetty has recently been added to the pier, in order to
secure a depth of ten feet water at ebb-tides ; and the
INVE
1 N V E
trade of the place is facilitated by a ferry across the
Frith to Cromarty. Facility of communication is also
afforded by good roads, and by steamers, which ply
during the summer months, weekly, to Inverness, Aber-
deen, and Leith, and every alternate week to London.
The north and south mails pass daily through the vil-
lage. Fairs for cattle, horses, agricultural produce,
fish, and various kinds of wares, are held on the first
Thursdays in every month throughout the year ; on the
second Tuesdays in April, October, and December; on
the third Tuesday in February ; and the first Tuesday
in August.
1NVERGOWRIE, a village, in the parish of Liff,
Benvie, and Invergowrie, county of Forfar, 3 miles
(W.) from Dundee; containing 108 inhabitants. This
village is pleasantly situated on the south bank of the
Tay, and gives name to a fine bay, at the bottom of
which is a small mouldering ruin called Invergowrie
church, half covered with ivy, close on the water's edge.
This is said to have been the first Christian structure
north of the Tay, having been founded in the seventh
century, by a papal legate named Boniface. From
Invergowrie Alexander I. embarked on his escape from
assassination at the palace of Liff. The village stands
at the commencement of the Carse of Govvrie, and on
the high road from Perth to Dundee. About half a
mile from it, on Invergowrie hill, are the remains of a
Roman camp, which had a communication, on the
north-east, with the camp of Hare Faulds, and was
designed, it is supposed, to keep up a communication
with the Roman shipping in the Tay. Its site is now
surrounded with a plantation of trees.
INVERKEILLOR, a parish, in the county of For-
far, 6 miles (N. by E.) from Arbroath ; containing,
with the hamlets of Leysmill, Chapelton of Boysack,
March of Lunanbank, and Millfield, 1879 inhabitants,
of whom 141 are in the village of Inverkeillor. This
place, which was perhaps anciently called Conghoillis,
derives its present name from its situation near the
mouth of a small rivulet designated Keillor, which
flows into the bay of Lunan about a mile to the
south-east of the village. It lays claim to a remote
degree of antiquity ; and near the mouth of the river
Lunan are the ruins of the ancient house of Redcastle,
said to have been built, by William the Lion for a hunt-
ing-seat, the probability of which is confirmed by the
names of several of the adjacent lands. The parish is
bounded on the north, and also intersected, by the
river Lunan ; on the east is the North Sea. It is about
seven miles in length, and of very irregular form, vary-
ing from two and a half to four and a half miles in
breadth ; and comprises an area of 7500 acres, of which
130 are woodland and plantations, 2500 pasture, and
the remainder arable. The surface is generally level,
but rises towards the north by a gentle acclivity from
the river Lunan, and towards the south from the river
Keillor, terminating, in the latter direction, in a high
ridge of rocky coast, at the promontory of Redhead,
which has an elevation of 230 feet above the level of the
sea. The Lunan has its source near Forfar, and, flow-
ing eastward, through the northern portion of the
parish, falls into Lunan bay : the Keillor rises in the
southern part of the parish, and also joins the sea at
the bay. The coast extends for nearly six miles ; and the
shore along the bay of Lunan is a flat firm sand, bevond
571
which, to the south, it is bold and rocky. The hay
affords good anchorage for vessels ; and all along the
coast are salmon-fisheries.
The soil is in general fertile, in some places a deep
rich loam, and in others of a lighter quality ; the crops
are, grain of every kind, with potatoes and turnips.
The system of husbandry is in a very improved state ;
the lands are well drained ; the farm-buildings of supe-
rior construction; and the fences, which are chiefly of
stone, are kept in good order. The cattle reared in the
parish are usually of the Angus black breed, without
horns ; most of them are sold when three years old, for
the English market, where they obtain a high price ;
and the others are pastured for home use, or for the
Glasgow market. The sheep are of the Highland black-
faced breed, with a few of the Cheviot and Leicester-
shire. The rateable annual value of the parish amounts
to £S76l. The plantations are, beech, elm, oak, birch,
and plane, with larch and Scotch fir, for which the soil
is well adapted. The rocks are mostly red sandstone,
alternated with trap and porphyry, in which are found
agates of great beauty ; and the principal substrata are
whinstone and freestone. The latter is quarried at
Leysmill, where large paving-stones are dressed by
machinery driven by steam : in these works, which are
the property of Mr. Carnegie of Boysack, about fifty
men are constantly employed. Ethie House, the seat
of the Earl of Northesk, is an ancient mansion origi-
nally erected by Cardinal Beaton, and is pleasantly
situated near the coast. The only other houses in the
parish of any note are those named Kinblethmont and
Anniston.
The village of Inverkeillor is on the great north road
from Edinburgh to Aberdeen : the inhabitants are
the ordinary tradesmen necessary for the convenience of
a country population. Many persons within the parish
are employed in the spinning of flax, for which there
are several mills, some being driven by steam, and
others by the water of the Lunan. Near the church is
a posting-house, called Chance Inn, at which the mail
delivers letters twice a day ; and facility of communica-
tion is afforded by good roads, and several bridges over
the Lunan. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of Arbroath and
synod of Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend
is £246. 14., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £8. 15.
per annum ; patron, the Crown. The church, erected in
1735, and enlarged by the addition of an aisle in 1799,
is a plain structure containing 700 sittings. There is a
place of worship for members of the Free Church. The
parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £34, with a house
and garden; he receives also £10 from a bequest for
the gratuitous instruction of twelve poor children, and
the fees average about £15 per annum. There is also a
school at Chapelton, of which the master has a free
house and garden, and a salary of £7, arising from a
bequest, in addition to the fees. The bequest from
which these payments to the schools are made, amounts
to £1000, under the management of the Kirk Session,
who appropriate the remainder of the proceeds to the
poor not upon the parish roll. Near the sea are the
remains of St. Murdoch's chapel, with the burying-
ground attached to it ; and at Chapelton are the remains
of the chapel of Quytefield, the burial-place of the family
of Boysack.
4D 2
I N V E
I N V E
Obverse.
Reverse.
Seal and Arms.
INVERKEITHING, a parish, sea-port, burgh, and
market-town, in the district of Dunfermline, county
of Fife, 12§ miles (N. W. by W.) from Edinburgh ;
containing, with the village of Hillend, 2530 inhabit-
ants, of whom 16*4 are in the burgh. This place, which
is supposed to have derived its name from its position
at the influx of the Keithing into the sea, and which
at present includes the ancient parish of Rosyth, so
called, in the Gaelic language, from its peninsular situ-
ation, appears to be of considerable antiquity ; and the
adjacent ferry was, on her flight from England, the
landing-place of Margaret, who afterwards became the
queen of Malcolm III. Several battles have at various
times occurred in the immediate vicinity, the last of
which was between the Scots and the forces of Oliver
Cromwell, in 1651 ; and there are still the remains of a
redoubt, said to have been thrown up by Cromwell's
army while they were encamped on the Ferry hill.
The town is pleasantly and advantageously situated on
an eminence overlooking the bay of St. Margaret's Hope,
in the Frith of Forth, and consists chiefly of one prin-
cipal street, from which a smaller street and some lanes
branch off in different directions. The houses are in
general well built, of sandstone or greenstone ; and
many of the older buildings have been taken down, and
replaced with others of more modern and handsome
appearance. There are a public subscription library,
a circulating library, and one exclusively for religious
works, all of which are well supported. The environs
are pleasant, and abound with objects of interest ; and
the place has, on the whole, a clean and cheerful as-
pect.
A distillery is conducted on a very extensive scale,
employing about eighty persons ; and the produce,
which is chiefly whisky, is shipped off for the supply of
the London market. There are two iron-foundries,
where works of the larger kind are cast ; and in con-
nexion with them are forges, in which steam-engines
and various kinds of machinery are manufactured, the
whole affording occupation to fifty persons. Bricks for
common uses, and fire-bricks of very superior quality,
are made in great numbers ; and chimney and other
ornaments are manufactured, resembling freestone in
appearance. There are a tannery, salt-works, and a
laboratory for magnesia, in full operation ; two mills
for meal and flour ; one for barley; and a mill worked
by steam for crushing bones for agricultural purposes,
of which the produce is sent to most places on the
eastern coast. The town has also a large yard for build-
ing and repairing ships, where a considerable number of
572
people are engaged. The trade of the port was once
rather more extensive than at present, from the great
number of persons employed in the quarries of green-
stone, of which vast, quantities were shipped off for paving
the streets of London, but which has of late been partly
superseded by the use of granite from Aberdeen. Much
stone was likewise used in the construction of the pier
at Leith and the bridge of Stirling, the shipping of which
was, of course, discontinued after those works were com-
pleted. At present, the trade consists chiefly in the
exportation of the produce of coal-mines and manufac-
tories, and in the importation of timber, bark, and large
quantities of bones ; but much stone is still exported.
In 1843 there were twenty-eight vessels, varying from
twenty to 160 tons' burthen, registered as belonging to
the port, and mostly employed in the coasting trade.
Steam-boats sail from the village of North Queensferry,
in the vicinity, to Leith, Stirling, and other ports, afford-
ing a facility of intercourse with the principal towns in
this part of the country ; and several lines of good
turnpike-road, also, serve to maintain an easy commu-
nication with the neighbouring market-towns. An iron
railway has been recently constructed, in place of a for-
mer one of wood, for conveying coal, lime, bricks, and
also stone from the quarries, to the port, for exporta-
tion. The market, on Monday, for grain and live
stock, is held in a handsome and commodious market-
house. Five annual fairs are held in the town, for
horses, cattle, and various kinds of merchandise, which
formerly were numerously attended by dealers from
various parts ; but very little business is at present
transacted, except at the cattle-fair in May, and the
Lammas fair on the first Friday in August, which latter
is resorted to by considerable numbers of people from
the neighbouring districts, when horse and foot races
regularly take place.
The inhabitants of the
burgh received a charter of
incorporation at a ver)' early
period, which is recited in a
charter granted by William
the Lion, and was confirmed
and enlarged by charter of
James VI., giving to the bur-
gesses the customs on ves-
sels navigating the port from
the great stone near Milna-
thort, on the north, to the
middle of the Frith of Forth,
on the south ; and from the river Leven, on the east, to
the river Devon, on the west ; with certain tracts of
land, and various other privileges. By this charter, the
government is vested in a provost, two bailies, a dean
of guild, a treasurer, and a council of ten burgesses,
assisted by a town-clerk and other officers, all chosen
under the regulations of the Municipal Reform Act. The
provostship was made hereditary, by a grant of Mary,
Queen of Scots, in the family of the Hendersons, of
Fordel ; and the provost of this burgh was, in public
processions, next in precedence to the provost of Edin-
burgh. By their ancient charter, the magistrates had
power of jurisdiction in capital offences ; and a rising
ground near the town still retains the name of Gallow-
hill, being the place where criminals were formerly exe-
cuted. The provost, bailies, and the other officers of
Second Seal of the Burgh.
I N VE
I N V E
the corporation were formerly all elected by the coun-
cil ; and the council rilled up vacancies as they occurred
from the burgesses, by a majority of their own body.
There are five trades, viz., the hammermen, tailors,
shoemakers, bakers, and weavers, which are severally
governed by deacons ; and the freedom of the burgh is
obtained by becoming a member of any one of these
companies, on the payment of certain fees. The juris-
diction of the provost and bailies, the former of whom
is always a justice of the peace by virtue of his office, ex-
tends over the whole of the royalty of the burgh, and the
magistrates hold courts for the determination of civil
actions to any amount ; but all criminal cases, except
in trifling misdemeanours, are referred to the county
assizes. The burgh unites with those of Culross, South
Queensferry, Stirling, and Dunfermline, in returning
one member to the imperial parliament ; the right of
election is vested, by the act of the 2nd and 3rd of Wil-
liam IV., in the resident householders of the annual
value of £10 and upwards. The number of electors is
ninety, of whom thirty-four are burgesses ; and the
number of persons whose houses are below the value of
£10 per annum, is forty-five, of whom six are bur-
gesses. The town-hall is a neat building of stone, and
is well adapted to the use of the corporation, and for
holding the courts : the prison, which is only for the
temporary confinement of offenders, is small and inse-
cure. The market-cross is a neat, and rather lofty,
pillar of stone ; and between the town and the village of
North Ferry, is a handsome building originally erected
for a lazaretto, but which has been superseded by sta-
tioning a frigate in the bay of St. Margaret's Hope, for
the quarantine service. The annual revenue of the
burgh is between £600 and £*00.
The parish extends for six miles along the shore of
the Frith, including the bay of St. Margaret's Hope, so
called from the landing of Queen Margaret ; it com-
prises about 2500 acres, chiefly arable, with a moderate
portion of pasture, and a few acres in plantations. The
surface is greatly varied, consisting of hills of consider-
able elevation with intervening valleys, and level sands
stretching along the coast and frequently interrupted
by cragged heights. In the Frith are the rocky island
of Inch-Garvie and the rock of Bimar, which latter has
been the cause of frequent shipwrecks. The streamlet
called theKeithing, as already stated, here falls into the
Frith ; and two small burns, after intersecting the
parish, unite their streams, and also join the harbour.
The scenery is marked rather with features of romantic
character, than of picturesque beauty; and the want of
ornamental timber gives an appearance of bleakness to
the landscape. The soils are various, but generally fer-
tile, and much waste and mossy land has been reclaimed
by draining, and brought into profitable cultivation ;
the system of husbandry, also, has been greatly im-
proved. The crops are, wheat, barley, oats, beans, peas,
potatoes, and turnips ; the little pasture there is, is on
the acclivities of the hills. The plantations are chiefly
of recent growth, and consist of larch and fir, inter-
spersed with oak, ash, beech, and elm trees ; and on
the banks of the streams are some alder and willow.
The farm-buildings are mostly substantial and commo-
dious, and several, of modern erection, are of very supe-
rior style ; the lands are inclosed principally with hedges
of thorn which are kept in good order, but a few of the
573
fields are fenced with stone dykes. The substratum i«
generally greenstone, of which the hills consist; and
limestone and sandstone abound : coal is found in the
northern part of the parish. Among the minerals are,
quartz, steatite, felspar, sulphate of barytes, calcareous
spar, and pyrites of iron ; and boulders of chlorite and
mica-slate are frequently found. The greenstone is
quarried extensively for building, paving, and for mend-
ing the roads ; and large quantities are shipped from
the port : the sandstone is also quarried, and sent to
the towns on the neighbouring coast ; and there are
quarries of limestone of excellent quality, of which
great quantities are forwarded to distant places. The
coal is likewise worked to a very considerable extent,
about 30,000 or 40,000 tons being annually raised.
The rateable yearly value of Inverkeithing is £7431.
On the estate of Duloch is an ancient mansion ; also
a modern house, the occasional residence of its pro-
prietor ; and on a promontory near St. Margaret's Hope
is a handsome marine villa.
Inverkeithing is in the presbytery of Dunfermline
and synod of Fife, and in the patronage of Lady Baird ;
the minister's stipend is £263. 8., with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £40 per annum. The church, which is
situated in the centre of the town, is a handsome edifice
in the later style of English architecture, built, with the
exception of the tower, in 1827, to replace the for-
mer structure, destroyed by an accidental fire in 1S25.
It is a conspicuous feature in the view of the town, and
is adapted for a congregation of nearly 1000 persons.
There is a place of worship for a congregation of the
United Associate Synod. The parochial school, for which
an elegant building has been erected, and which is also
the burgh school, affords a liberal education to 170 scho-
lars : the master, who is appointed jointly by the town-
council and the heritors, has a salary of £34, with £100
fees, and a house and garden. A female school has been
established for teaching reading and sewing, the mistress
of which is appointed by the council, who pay her a sa-
lary of £5, in addition to the fees. There are some Druid-
ical remains on the summit of Letham hill ; and in the
north of the parish is a stone pillar, about ten feet in
height, on which are rudely-sculptured figures of men
and horses, which are much defaced by time ; it is sup-
posed to have been raised in commemoration of some
successful conflict with the Danes. On the summit of
a rock in the bay connected by a narrow isthmus with
the main land, are the remains of the ancient castle of
Rosyth, consisting of the walls of a square tower, which,
from the traces of foundations, appears to have been at
the north-east angle of a quadrangular range of build-
ings. The castle is said to have been anciently the
baronial seat of the Stuarts, of Rosyth, descendants of
Walter, high steward of Scotland, and father of Robert
II. ; it is now the property of the Earl of Hopetoun.
Over the gateway is a coat of arms, much mutilated, but
clearly Queen Mary's, surmounted by a crown, with
the inscription M. R. and the date 1561 ; and near the
door on the south side is a couplet in the Scottish dia-
lect, having allusion to the bell, as summoning the
guests to the banquet. On the transoms of thejwin-
dows in the hall, also, are engraved the initials M. S.
and M. N. An old building in the town is said to be
the remains of the residence of Annabella Drummond,
queen of Robert III., in which she died in 1403 : the
I N V E
IN.VE
teKement, though in the centre of the town, is exempt
from the jurisdiction of the magistrates, who, under
their charter from that monarch, were obliged to pay
her 100 shillings annually. Near it are numerous
ruins, among which were recently discovered the foun-
dations of an ancient chapel belonging to one of the
monasteries founded here for brethren of the Franciscan
and Dominican orders. There are also in the town
some old houses well known to have been residences of
the families of Fordel and Rosebery. During the re-
pairs of the former church, was found a beautiful hex-
agonal font of sandstone, richly sculptured on each
face of the shaft with the bust of an angel with expanded
wings, bearing on its breast a shield of antique form,
in which were the arms of Scotland and of several of
the monarchs; it had been apparently buried with
care.
IN VERKEITHNY, a parish, in the county of Banff,
10 miles (N. E.) from Huntly: containing 6S7 inha-
bitants. This place takes its name from the large burn
of Keithny, which here falls into the river Doveran, on
the south side whereof the parish lies, stretching in
length, along the stream, between five and six miles,
and measuring from four miles to five in breadth. On
the north, the parish is bounded by that of Marnoch,
on the west by Rothiemay, on the south-west and south
by Forgue, and on the east by Turriff, the two last
parishes in the county of Aberdeen. It is computed to
contain 5610 acres, of which 4000 are cultivated, 800
waste or natural pasture, and the same number woods
and plantations, and undivided common. There is
scarcely anything to be met with in the nature of peat
or moss. The soil is tolerably good, and a considerable
quantity of grain is annually raised ; the land is farmed
upon the most approved system, and the rents average
about 15s per acre, the whole rateable annual value of
the parish amounting to £3343. The public road from
Banff to Huntly, to the former of which places the
agricultural produce is mostly sent, passes through the
western portion of the parish. The ecclesiastical affairs
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of
Turriff and synod of Aberdeen ; and the patronage is
vested in Thomas G. Bremner, Esq. The stipend of the
minister is £215, with a manse, built in 1787, and a
glebe of nearly six acres, valued in £10 per annum. The
church, a very plain edifice, stands in a narrow vale,
near the bank of the Doveran, where, also, is the manse.
The parochial school affords instruction in the usual
branches ; the salary of the master is £34 per annum,
with about £30 fees, and a house : fifty children are
educated.
INVERLEVEN, in the county of Fife.— -See Duu-
EIESIDE.
INVERMORRISTON, a village, in the parish of
Urquhart and Glenmorriston, county of Inver-
ness, 2 \\ miles (S. W. by W.) from Bonar Ferry; con-
taining 94 inhabitants. This place is situated at the
confluence of the river Morriston with Loch Ness ; and
an excellent road has been formed from it, coastwise,
along the north-west shore of the loch, to Bonar Ferry.
The Grant family have a handsome seat in the vicinity ;
and there is an excellent inn. A missionary minister
preaches here, and in the upper part of the glen, alter-
nately ; and a branch of the parochial school is in the
village.
574
Arms
INVERNESS, a royal
burgh, sea-port town, and
parish, in the county of
Inverness, of which it is
the chief town, 156 miles
(N. N. W.) from Edinburgh ;
containing, with the villages
of Balloch, Clachnaharry,
Culcaboch, Hilton, Resawrie,
and Smithtown of Culloden,
15,418 inhabitants, ofwhom,
9100 are in the burgh. This
place, which derives its name
from its situation near the mouth of the river Ness, is
the largest and most flourishing town in the Highlands,
of which it may be considered as the capital. It is
supposed to have been the ancient metropolis of the
kingdom of the Picts, and the residence of their kings
previously to the union of the Picts and Scots in the
reign of Kenneth II. ; and to have been visited, in the
sixth century, by St. Columba, for the conversion of the
inhabitants to the Christian religion. The castle, for
many years the occasional residence of the Scottish
kings, is identified by Shakspeare as the scene of the
murder of Duncan by Macbeth, lord of Ross and Moray,
though, by most historians, the perpetration of that
crime is said to have taken place in the vicinity of Elgin.
It was razed to the ground, about the middle of the
11th century, by Duncan's son, Malcolm Canmore, who
erected, near the site, a strong fortress which was held
for the king by one of the most powerful of the nobility,
with a view to keep the inhabitants of this Highland
district in subjection. Soon after the completion of
this castle, some houses were raised in its immediate
neighbourhood ; and a town gradually arose, which,
under its protection, increased in extent and import-
ance, and was frequently visited by the kings. Though
often plundered by the inhabitants of the Isles and by
the Highlanders, the town continued to prosper ; and
in the 13th century, it had attained a considerable
degree of commercial consequence, being inhabited by
numerous Flemings and Saxons, who had settled here,
and who carried on a lucrative trade in the exportation
of hides, malt, and various kinds of fish.
In 1303, the castle was besieged and taken by
Edward I. of England ; but it was soon afterwards
retaken by the adherents of Robert Bruce, who was
then raising forces in the Western Islands, to assert his
right to the throne ; and it remained in the possession
of his successors, kings of Scotland, till the reign of
James I. In 1411, the town was plundered by Donald,
Lord of the Isles, who, in his march from the battle
of Harlaw, set fire to the castle, which was nearly de-
stroyed ; it was, however, restored by the king, who
repaired the fortifications, and made the chief of the
Macintosh family, descended from one of the earls of
Fife, governor. The castle continued for some time to
be a place for the confinement of state prisoners, and,
in 1508, was placed under the command of the Earl of
Huntly, who was also created heritable sheriff of the
county. On the insurrection of a succeeding earl, in
1562, Mary, Queen of Scots, in her progress to the
north to quell the rebellion, came to Inverness with a
few attendants, and, being refused admission into the
castle, at that time held in her name by the insurgent
I N V E
I N V E
earl, lodged in a house at the base of the fortress.
From this perilous situation the queen was relieved by
the Frasers, Monroes, and Mackenzies, whom her pro-
clamation had brought to her assistance ; the castle was
compelled to surrender, and the deputy-governor was
executed on the spot. The queen, after remaining for
four days in the castle, left the town, and retired to
Aberdeen.
During the war in the reign of Charles I., the castle
was an object of constant dispute between the con-
tending parties. It was repeatedly besieged and taken
for the king by the Marquess of Montrose, and as fre-
quently retaken by his opponents: in 1649, it was
nearly demolished by the royalists under Sir Thomas
Urquhart ; and during the same year, the town was
seized by the royal forces under Generals Middleton
and Monroe. The castle was, however, recaptured by
Cromwell, who erected a strong fortress for the defence
of the town, capable of accommodating 1000 men, to
provide materials for which he destroyed the monas-
teries of Kinloss and Beauly, and all the religious houses
in the neighbourhood. After the Restoration, this for-
tress was demolished, to conciliate the Highlanders,
who had been held under powerful restraint, and se-
verely annoyed, by the garrison of Cromwell ; and
several of the more ancient houses in the town were
built with the materials. The royal castle which had
been nearly demolished by Urquhart was, at the time
of the Revolution, restored by government, at an ex-
pense of £50,000, and garrisoned, in order to keep the
Highlanders in subjection. It was still further im-
proved in 1718, by the erection of a house for the
governor ; and the whole of the buildings, called Fort-
George, formed a royal garrison under a governor chosen
by the crown, an appointment held always by one of
the principal of the nobility, and which, though it sub-
sequently became merely nominal, was possessed by the
Gordon family till the death of the last duke, in 1836.
In 1745, the castle was assaulted by the forces under
the command of Charles Edward, son of the Pretender,
by whom it was taken and destroyed. That prince, on
the night last but one before the battle of Culloden,
which took place near the town, slept at the house of
Lady Drummuir, in Church-street ; and on the night
after the battle, the Duke of Cumberland, who made
Inverness his head-quarters, slept in the same house,
which appears to have been almost the only one of any
importance in the place. The circulation of money by
the troops of the duke during their stay in the town,
appears to have contributed greatly to its restoration
from that state of decay into which, from the time of
the Revolution, it had been gradually falling. The
walls of the royal castle, which remained nearly entire
for some years, have been removed, and the site con-
verted into a bowling-green.
The town is situated chiefly on the east bank of the
river Ness, near its influx into the Moray Frith, and
consists of several well-formed and spacious streets,
crossing each other at right angles. The houses are
generally substantial and well built, and many are large
and of handsome appearance, the residence of opulent
families ; the streets are paved with granite, and the
foot-paths laid with Caithness flags. The town is
lighted with gas from works erected at an expense
of £8757, by a company established under an act of
575
parliament ; and the inhabitants are supplied with water
raised from the river by machinery, and distributed to
the houses by pipes. There are several subscription
and circulating libraries, and two public reading and
news rooms, all well furnished with newspapers, of
which three are published in the town, and with the
most interesting periodical works. The Northern In-
stitution for the promotion of science and literature,
established here in 1825, has been discontinued; and
its valuable library, and museum of antiquities and
natural curiosities, have been presented to the directors
of the Inverness Academy, for the use of the pupils.
In Church-street is a plain neat building called the
Northern Meeting Rooms, containing an elegant ball-
room, in which card and dancing assemblies are held,
a spacious dining-room, and other rooms, in which
public meetings take place. Leading from the extremity
of the High-street, is a handsome bridge of stone, of
seven arches, erected in 16S5, by subscription, at a cost
of £1300, and connecting the principal part of the town
with that portion of it which lies on the west bank of
the river, and with the various suburbs in that vicinity.
Above this is the new bridge, of wood, built in 1808, by
private subscription, at an expense of £4000. The
environs abound with interesting and pleasing scenery :
in the river, which is here of great breadth, are two
picturesque islands, beautifully laid out in lawns, shrub-
beries, and walks, connected with the opposite banks
of the stream by suspension-bridges, and forming de-
lightful promenades. There are several good family
hotels in the town, of which the Caledonian hotel is
very extensive, and elegantly fitted up ; also numerous
commodious inns and lodging-houses.
The chief manufacture carried on is that of cloth for
bags, sacking, and tarpaulins, for the London market,
and for exportation to the East and West Indies ; about
300 persons are employed, of whom more than half are
women. The weaving of Highland plaids and tartans
is also pursued to a small extent, affording occupation
to twenty-five persons ; there are three tanneries, a dis-
tillery, and two public breweries; and about a hundred
families are supported by the sawing of timber. The
trade of the port consists chiefly in the exportation of
wool, grain, and hempen cloths ; and the importation
of hemp and timber from the Baltic, and tar from Arch-
angel, of which last, upon an average, from 400 to 600
tons are annually landed. There are six vessels belong-
ing to the port, of 130 tons' average burthen, employed
in the trade with London ; three in that of Leith ; and
two in that of Aberdeen : the custom duties in the year
1843 amounted to £4357. Since the completion of the
Caledonian canal, the commerce of the town has been
greatly extended, a direct line of intercourse having been
thus opened with Glasgow and Liverpool, and with the
manufacturing districts in their vicinity. The jurisdic-
tion of the port, which is the head of the district, ex-
tends from the mouth of the river Spey to Dornoch
Frith on the east, and from Assynt Point to Ardnamur-
chan on the west. The aggregate tonnage of the ship-
ping of the whole district is about S000 tons, of which
nearly two-thirds belong to this place. The harbour, at
the mouth of the river, is accessible to vessels of 250
tons ; and ships of 500 tons can anchor with safety in
the Kessock roads, or deliver their cargoes at the wharfs
of the Caledonian canal, within a mile of the town.
I N V E
I N V E
During the summer months, steam-vessels sail regularly
from Inverness to Leith, Aberdeen, and London. Ship-
building has within the last few years been introduced,
and is carried on upon a moderate scale. The market-
days are Tuesday and Friday, when butchers' meat, eggs,
and poultry, and garden and agricultural produce of
every kind, are exposed for sale in great abundance.
Fairs are held in February, July, August, and Novem-
ber, for cattle, horses, butter, cheese, home-made stuffs,
and various other kinds of merchandise. The July fair
is attended by the principal Highland sheep-farmers,
and by the south of Scotland and English wool- staplers,
when not less than 100,000 head of sheep, and an equal
number of stones of wool, are generally sold. The ex-
change, situated near the town-hall, is a neat building,
well adapted for its use ; and the old cross, in front of
it, is still in good preservation.
The Caledonian Canal, which extends from Inver-
ness, on the north-east, to Corpach, near Fort-William,
on the south-west, intersects Scotland from sea to sea.
It passes for eight miles within the parish ; and its entire
length is 60^ miles, of which twenty-three miles have
been formed by excavation, and the remainder consists
of a succession of natural lakes, Loch Ness, Loch Oich,
and Loch Lochy. The canal is 120 feet wide at the
top, fifty at the bottom, and the full depth of water cor-
responding to these dimensions was proposed to be
twenty feet ; but the works have not hitherto been
completed to afford a greater practicable depth than
thirteen or fourteen feet. There are twenty-eight locks
on the line, fourteen ascending to, and fourteen descend-
ing from, the summit level in Loch Oich, which is about
ninety-five feet above ordinary high-water at Inver-
ness. The locks are 1/0 feet long, by forty in breadth,
the rise in most cases being eight feet ; and the bridges
are of cast-iron, and swing horizontally. Acts for the
construction of the canal were passed in 1803 and 1804 ;
the works were commenced under the superintendence
of Mr. Telford, in 1S05 ; and after an expenditure of
nearly £1,000,000 sterling, the navigation was opened
in 1822, in the unfinished state already mentioned, and
in which it has ever since remained. The present rate
of tonnage-duty, levied on sailing-vessels or steam-boats
laden or unladen, passing along the canal in either
direction, is one farthing per ton per mile ; there being
no dues chargeable upon goods of any description. The
produce of the rate amounted, for the year ending
30th April, 1842, to £2723 ; and the number of pas-
sages made by vessels during that period was 1350.
Since then, the navigation has only been partially open,
at irregular intervals, owing to the works not being in a
perfect state. The defective and unsatisfactory condi-
tion of the canal has, however, of late engaged the seri-
ous attention of government ; and nautical and engi-
neering surveys and reports have been made by Sir
Edward Parry and Mr. Walker, who concur in recom-
mending the efficient repair and completion of the
works, with the establishment of steam tug-boats and
other facilities for the accommodation of the larger
classes of commercial shipping. The estimated expense
of these operations is about £200,000, towards which
the sum of £105,000 was voted by parliament up to
1844 ; and a contract has been entered into for the
engineering details, amounting to £136,000, which will
occupy a period of three years from their commence-
576
'Burgh Seal.
ment in October, 1843. The passage from sea to sea is
necessarily interrupted during their progress ; but parts
of the canal are kept open, and made available for the
local traffic.
The town was made a royal
burgh by charter of David
I. ; and additional privileges
were granted by succeeding
monarchs to the time of
James VI., under whose char-
ter, in 1591, the government
is vested in a provost, four
bailies, a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and fourteen coun-
cillors. The councillors were
formerly elected by a majo-
rity of their own body, five of
whom retired every year, and were replaced : the provost,
bailies, dean of guild, and treasurer remained members
of the council for one year after the expiration of their
office, and of course were not of the number that retired.
There are six incorporated trades, viz., the hammermen,
Wrights and coopers, shoemakers, tailors, weavers, and
skinners, into one of which a person must enter before
he is eligible to the council or magistracy ; the fees of
admission vary from £1. 1. to £3 for sons of freemen,
for apprentices from £5 to £6, and for strangers from
£20 to £30. The jurisdiction of the burgh extends
over the whole of the ancient and enlarged royalty ; and
the magistrates hold courts, with jurisdiction equivalent
to that of the sheriff, for the determination of civil pleas,
and the trial of criminal offences, in which the town-
clerk acts as assessor. The average number of civil
causes tried annually is forty, of from £2 to £20 in
amount ; and of criminal causes two. There is also a
court held by the dean of guild, as well as a sheriff's
court for the recovery of small debts. The burgh, in
conjunction with the burghs of Forres, Fortrose, and
Nairn, returns a member to the imperial parliament ;
the right of election is vested in the resident £10 house-
holders. The town-hall, at the extremity of Church-
street, was erected in 170S, and contains the necessary
accommodations for transacting the public business :
the gaol, erected in 1791) has a handsome spire 150 feet
in height, but is ill adapted for the classification of pri-
soners. The county-hall, situated on the Castle Hill, is
a good building in the castellated style, erected at an
expense of £7000, after a design by Mr. Burn, of Edin-
burgh, and has the requisite court-rooms and offices :
immediately adjoining is a site reserved for the erection
of a new gaol for the county and the town.
The parish extends along the coast of the Moray
and Beauly Friths, and is about fourteen miles in length
and two and a half in average breadth, comprising an
area of 12,000 acres, of which 9000 are arable, and the
remainder, of which 1000 might be brought into culti-
vation, woodland, plantations, and waste. The surface,
of which a considerable portion, forming part of the
Caledonian valley, or great Glen of Albin, is tolerably
level, is diversified on each side by the mountainous
chains which bound the vale, and which, towards the
coast, decrease in height. These mountains subside on
the east into a smooth ridge having an elevation of
about 400 feet, and on the west divide into groups of
picturesque hills, terminating in Craig-Phadric, a re-
I N V E
I N V E
markable elevation of vitrified rock, with a tabular sum-
mit, to which the ascent is by precipitous and rugged
acclivities. Along the line of coast, which is marked
with bays of gentle curvature, is a level tract of rich
land in the best state of cultivation ; and most of the
higher grounds are beautifully ornamented with luxuri-
ant woods, and plantations of Scotch fir, larch, ash, elm,
beech, and oak. The river Ness, which has its source
in Loch Ness, after a course of eight miles, flows
through the parish into the bay opposite Kessock point,
between the Moray and Beauly Friths ; and there are
numerous rivulets, of which several in their progress
form picturesque cascades. The Ness formerly abounded
with salmon, and the fisheries on it produced a rental
of £1 100 per annum, which, within the last thirty years,
has been reduced to £370; and there is a prospect of
a still further reduction. A few herrings or coal-fish
are occasionally taken on the sea-shore. The prevail-
ing scenery is marked with features, in some parts of
grandeur, and in others of romantic beauty ; and the
views from the higher grounds are extensive and richly
varied. Numerous handsome seats of the Highland
gentry are situated in the glens, and on the elevated
ridges which intersect the parish ; and the pleasing
hamlets of their tenantry are scattered through the
various districts. There are also many tastefully orna-
mented villas in the immediate neighbourhood of the
town. The soil in the upper lands is light and sandy,
resting on a substratum of gravel ; and in the lower
lands, a deep rich loam, intermixed with clay : the
crops are, wheat, barley, oats, hay, and the usual green
crops. The system of agriculture is advanced; the
lands are well inclosed with fences of stone or hedges ;
and the farm houses and offices are generally substantial
and commodious. Considerable portions of waste have
been reclaimed and brought into profitable cultivation ;
and all the more recent improvements in implements of
husbandry have been adopted. The cattle are usually
of a mixed breed, partakiug of the OldHighlaud, Moray,
and Ayrshire kinds ; and considerable attention is paid
in rearing them for the dairy, and also for the market.
There are some quarries of red and of grey sandstone,
which are wrought to a moderate extent, chiefly for
domestic purposes. The rateable annual value of the
parish is £30,258, including £10,500 for the burgh.
Among the gentlemen's seats are, Culloden House,
Raigmore House, New Castle, the Inches, Culduthel,
Doehfour, Dunain, and Muirtown, all beautifully situ-
ated in richly-planted demesnes.
The parish, with which that of Bona was united at a
time not distinctly known, is the head of the presbytery
of Inverness, in the synod of Moray. There are three
parochial ministers, who officiate alternately in the two
ancient chtjrchks. The first aud second have each a
stipend of £276. 10., with a small allowance in lieu of
the manses, which, being ruinous, were sold for incon-
siderable sums, of which they receive the interest re-
spectively ; and the proceeds of the glebe, amounting
to £100 per annum, are equally divided between them.
The third minister has a stipend of £200, of which part
is paid from the exchequer ; but he has neither manse
nor glebe. Of the two old churches, the one called the
High church, in which divine service is performed only
in the English language, was built in 1772; it is a plain
edifice containing 1260 sittings, and has an ancient
Vol. I.— 577
square tower, said to have been erected by Oliver Crom-
well. The other, called the Gaelic church, because the
service is performed in that language, was built in 1794,
and is also a plain structure, containing 1220 sittings.
The patronage is in the Crown and Lord Lovat ; but
the latter has transferred his portion of it, during his
life, to Professor Scott, of King's College, Aberdeen.
The late quoad sacra parish of North Church was sepa-
rated from the parish of Inverness by act of the General
Assembly: the church, erected in 1S37, at a cost of
£1400, raised by subscription, aided by a grant from
the Assembly, is a neat structure containing 1033 sit-
tings. The late quoad sacra parish of East Inverness
was nearly five miles in length and about two miles in
extreme breadth, comprising an area of 5000 acres, and
including an extensive rural district : the church, built
in 179S, at a cost of £1400, by subscription, and altered
and repaired in 1822, has 1177 sittings. There is a
preaching station in the ancient parish of Bona, where
divine service is performed by the assistant of one
of the ministers of the parish. The episcopal chapel,
erected in 1801, at a cost of £1000, is a neat building ;
and there are places of worship for the United Seces-
sion, Independents, and Wesleyans ; and a Roman
Catholic chapel, erected in 1S36, at an expense of
£2000. There are also places of worship for members
of the Free Church.
The old burgh grammar school has long merged into
the Royal Academy, founded in 1792, for the education
of children in the higher classes of the Highland popu-
lation ; incorporated by royal charter ; and endowed by
liberal subscriptions, and the transfer of the funds ap-
propriated by the burgh to the support of the old
grammar school. To these sources of income has been
added a munificent bequest of propert)', now amounting
to £26,794, by Captain William Macintosh, of Farr, in
1S03, for the education of boys of that name, of the
families of Farr, Holm, Dalmigavie, and Kellachy, or
the nearest of kin, of whom there are nearly forty in
the establishment. The academy is under the direction
of the provost and magistrates of the burgh, the sheriff
of the county, the moderator of the presbytery, and a
committee of five persons chosen annually from the
subscribers; and the instruction is given by a rector,
who has a salary of £250 per annum, without any fees,
and four classical and other masters, who, in addition
to their fees, have salaries varying from £30 to £40
each. The course of studies consists of the classics,
mathematics, the elements of chemistry, natural history,
and philosophy, with all the branches of a commercial
education : there are at present about 300 pupils. Mr.
John Raining, of Norwich, in 1747, bequeathed £1000
to the General Assembly, for the foundation of a school,
which has been established here, and placed under the
direction of the Society for Propagating Christian Know-
ledge ; it has two masters, who receive salaries of
£4S and £40 per annum, respectively, with a house
and garden each ; and the number of pupils is 250.
There are also two other schools in the parish, of which
the masters have salaries of £17 and £15 each, sup-
ported by the same society, A large school, likewise,
has recently been erected by the magistrates, to whom
the Rev. Dr. Bell bequeathed £10,000, in trust, for the
foundation and support of schools on the Madras system.
The Infirmary, to which is attached a lunatic asylum,
4 E
IN V E
I N V E
was founded in 1804, chiefly through the exertions of
the provost, William Inglis, Esq., and is supported by-
subscriptions and donations. It is under the direction
of the magistrates of the burgh, the sheriff of the county,
the moderator of the presbytery, the ministers of the
parish, and a committee of subscribers annually chosen ;
the medical department is superintended by the faculty,
who visit the institution gratuitously, a resident house-
surgeon and apothecary, a matron, nurses, and the re-
quisite attendants. The building, which is pleasantly
situated on the west bank of the river, beyond the town,
is a handsome and spacious structure, including a dis-
tinct arrangement for the asylum, which is detached
from the infirmary. The latter contains numerous airy
and well- ventilated wards for the various classes of
patients, with hot and cold baths. The Dispensary,
situated on Muirtown Green, was established in 1832,
for administering advice and medicines to the poor, and
has afforded extensive relief ; it is wholly supported by
subscription. There are also several benefit societies in
the town, which have tended to diminish the number
of applications for parochial relief. Mr. Jonathan Ander-
son, of Glasgow, bequeathed to the magistrates property
now amounting to £3845 ; and Mr. Klien, also, be-
queathed £1000, of which the interest is distributed
annually among decayed householders. The United
Charitable Institutions, for which a neat building has been
erected on an eminence to the south of the Castle Hill,
to which it is proposed to add a tower, fitted up for an
observatory, include an infant school, a female school,
a female work society, and an association for the distri-
bution of blankets and clothing to the poor.
Above the village of Clachnaharry, to the west of the
town, are some rocky eminences called the Watchman s
stones, where anciently a guard was stationed to give
notice of the approach of any hostile force, and on one
of which a lofty column was erected by the late H. R.
Duff, Esq., of Muirtown, to commemorate a sanguinary
conflict that took place in 1333, between the Clan
Chattan and the Monroes of Fowlis. Near these emi-
nences is the hill of Craig Phadric, on the summit of
which, at an elevation of 435 feet above the level of the
sea, is a vitrified fortress with a double vallum, exhibiting
heaps of boulder stones strongly cemented by fire. It
was connected with a chain of similar fortresses extend-
ing in various directions into the centre of the county,
and upon which beacon-fires were anciently lighted, to
convey signals to the opposite coast. To the west of
Craig Phadric is a high gravelly ridge called Tor-a-
Bhean, supposed to contain the tomb of Donald Bane,
a chieftain of the Hebrides, who, in 1187, at the head
of a body of islanders, encountered Duncan Macintosh,
son of the governor of Inverness Castle, when a severe
conflict ensued, in which both were killed. Near the
base of this ridge, on the shore of the Caledonian canal,
a massive silver chain of thirty-three double circular
links was found in 1S08, weighing 104 ounces, and
thought to have been worn by that island chief as an
ensign of office; it is now in the museum of the Society
of Antiquaries, Edinburgh. On the margin of Loch
Dochfour are the remains of the church of Bona ; and
between Loch Dochfour and Loch Ness is a quadrilateral
inclosure, rounded at the angles, supposed to have been
a Roman camp, and on the highest point of which are
the ruins of a fort commanding the fords across the
578
river Ness. In the same vicinity are numerous sepul-
chral tumuli. The eastern portion of the parish con-
tains part of the memorable field on which the battle of
Culloden was fought ; and bordering on the parish of
Croy are many cairns, and various circles of stones,
supposed to be Druidical. Near the mouth of the river
Ness is Cairn Arc, a large pile of stones, in the Moray
Frith ; and in Beauly Frith are several similar cairns,
which are corroborative of the opinion, not unsustained
by facts, that the sea has made considerable encroach-
ments on this part of the coast. The late Duke of
Sussex bore the inferior title of Earl of Inverness ; and
the place at present gives the title of Duchess to the
widow of his royal highness.
INVERNESS-SHIRE, an extensive county, in the
north of Scotland, bounded on the north by Ross-shire
and the Moray Frith ; on the east, by the counties of
Nairn, Elgin, Banff, and Aberdeen ; on the south, by
Perth-shire and the county of Argyll ; and on the west,
by the Atlantic Ocean. It lies between 56° 54' and
57° 50' (N. Lat.) and 4° 20' 10" and 6° 35' (W. Lon.),
and is about ninety miles in length, and nearly eighty in
extreme breadth; comprising an area of 7200 square
miles, or 4,60S,000 acres, exclusive of the several
islands attached to it; and containing 19,779 houses,
of which 19,194 are inhabited; and a population of
97,799, of whom 45,538 are males, and 52,261 females.
This county, which takes its name from its chief town,
originally formed the western portion of the ancient
province of Moray, and, prior to the union of the two
kingdoms under Kenneth II., was inhabited by the
Picts, who are said to have had frequent battles with
the Danes, by whom their territories were invaded.
The town of Inverness is thought to have been the resi-
dence of the Pictish kings, and is so identified with the
historical events of the county as to render any notice
of them here superfluous. Prior to the Reformation,
the county was part of the diocese of Moray ; since that
event it has been included in the synods of Moray, Ross,
and Glenelg, containing several presbyteries, and about
forty-five parishes. For civil purposes, it is under the
superintendence of four sheriffs- substitute, appointed by
the sheriff, and who hold their courts respectively at
Inverness, Fort-William, Skye, and Long Island. The
county contains the villages of Fort-George, Fort-Augus-
tus, Portree, Grantown, Campbelton, Kingussie, Beauly,
and several others. Under the act of the 2nd and 3rd
of William IV., it returns one member to the imperial
parliament.
The surface is strikingly diversified by wild and
lofty mountains interspersed with deep and narrow
glens, and by numerous ridges of hills inclosing valleys
of various width and appearance. The main land is
divided into two nearly equal parts by the vale of Glen-
more, which intersects it throughout in a direction from
north-east to south-west, reaching from the Moray
Frith to Loch Eil, and containing a succession of lakes,
by the connecting of which the Great Caledonian canal
has been formed. On both sides of this valley are nu-
merous straths, separated by mountainous ridges, and
all watered by streams descending from the heights.
The country on the west of Glenmore, between it and
the Atlantic, is the more extensive and mountainous,
constituting the Highland district ; that on the east is
the Lowland district, and, though in many parts of wild
I N V E
I N V E
aspect, is in a better state of cultivation. The coast is
indented with a variety of inlets from the sea, forming
salt-water lakes, of 'which several, on the south-west,
separate it from the county of Argyll ; and in addition
to the districts of Badenoch, Lochaber, Glenelg, Glen-
garry, Arisaig, Moydart, and Stratbglass, into which
the main land is naturally divided, the county contains
the Isle of Skye, part of Lewis, North and South Uist,
Benbecula, Barra, Eigg, Eriskay, Bernera, and others of
the. Hebrides. The principal mountains are, Ben-Nevis,
which has an elevation of 4370 feet above the level of
the sea ; Mealfourvonie, which rises to the height of
3600 feet ; Scarsough, 3412 feet ; and Craig Phadric,
which is above 400 feet in height.
The chief rivers are the Ness and the Spey. The Ness
issues from Loch Ness, in the valley of Glenmore, and,
taking a north-eastern course for a few miles, falls into
the Moray Frith, forming the harbour of Inverness, to
■which town it gives its name. The river Spey has its
source in Loch Spey, in the district of Badenoch; and,
flowing eastward with great rapidity, and receiving
numerous tributary streams in a winding course of 120
miles through the strath to which it gives name, it
passes the village of Rothes, and, diverting its course
to the north, falls into the Moray Frith at Garmouth.
Of the smaller rivers, the Beauly, the Foyers, and the
Garry alone are deserving of any particular description.
The Beauly has its source in the confluence of the rivu-
lets Farrar, Carrick, and Glass, which give their names
to the straths through which they flow : after a course
of about eight miles, between rocky and precipitous
banks, in which it makes some beautiful falls, whereof
the chief is at Kilmorack, it falls into Beauly Frith.
The Foyers rises in the mountainous district of Bade-
noch, and, after a course often miles through a tract of
country abounding in romantic scener)r, joins Loch
Ness. In its progress it makes some highly-picturesque
cascades. At one part, its waters form three successive
descents together from a height of above 200 feet into
a pool beneath, beyond which, the stream, flowing
through a narrow rocky channel, falls from an elevation
of more than 212 feet in one unbroken sheet, which,
after heavy rains, has an impressive grandeur of effect.
The river Garry has its source in a small lake of that
name, nearly in the centre of the county, and, passing
through the strath of Glengarry, runs into Loch Oich.
The principal rivers, and also their tributaries, abound
with salmon. The chief lakes are, Loch Ness, Loch
Lochy, Loch Oich, and Loch Eil, which are situated in
the valley of Glenmore, and connected with each other
by the Caledonian canal ; Lochs Laggan, Treag, and
Ericht, in the south ; Lochs Affarie, Benevian, Clunie,
and some others, in the north ; and Lochs Quoich,
Arkaig, and Shiel, in the western part of the county.
The salt-water lakes, or inlets from the sea in the main-
land, are, Lochs Moidart, Morir, Nevish, Hourn, and
Beauly.
Of the lands, not more than one-twelfth part is un-
der cultivation, the remainder being either covered with
heath, or in mountain pasture. The soil on the level
grounds near the sea is chiefly clay alternated with
loam, and in some parts a fine rich black mould. In
some of the straths, also, between the mountain ridges,
the soil is extremely fertile, except in those parts where,
from the rapidity of the mountain streams, beds of gra-
579
vel accumulate. The arable lands are in a good state of
cultivation, producing excellent crops of wheat, barley,
and oats ; great quantities of potatoes are likewise
raised. The system of agriculture has been much im-
proved, and considerable tracts of waste have been
drained and brought into cultivation ; the farm houses
and offices, also, are generally substantial and well
arranged ; but the cottages of the labourers are very
indifferent. Many of the farms are of course in pas-
ture ; and the breed of cattle and sheep has of late been
an object of considerable attention. The cattle, of
which the stock may be averaged at 50,000, are prin-
cipally of the Skye or Kyloe breed : the sheep, of which
from 120,000 to 130,000 are pastured on the different
farms, are of the Linton and Cheviot breeds. The
horses, previously to the increase of the sheep-pas-
tures, were of the Old Highland breed ; but the number
has been greatly reduced, and those which are now
reared, chiefly for purposes of husbandry, are of various
kinds, according to the choice of the different proprie-
tors, who breed them only for their own use. Consi-
derable numbers of swine have been lately reared in
several parts, the Highlanders having overcome, in a
great measure, their wonted prejudices against that kind
of food ; and the stock has been improved by the intro-
duction of the Chinese breed.
The whole county appears to have been at a very
remote period covered with woods ; and in most of the
mosses, of which some are very extensive, are found
trunks of trees. In Glenmore and Strathspey are not
less than 15,000 acres of natural fir, exclusive of 70,000
acres of modern plantations of firs and larch; and in
other parts of the county are most extensive and flou-
rishing plantations of fir, larch, beech, plane, and oak,
of which last there are some carefully-preserved woods
at Lochiel and Fasfern. The substrata are princi-
pally limestone, freestone, and granite : the limestone
abounds in many places, yet, from the scarcity of fuel,
little of it is burnt into lime, which for agricultural pur-
poses is chiefly imported. Slate of durable texture is
largely quarried, and great quantities are annually ship-
ped off ; a quarry of grey slate was opened at Aultmore,
but of too porous a texture for roofing. Marble of
every variety of colour, and of excellent quality, is found
in Ben-Nevis and in most of the islands ; and common
granite, of which the hills principally consist, is exten-
sively quarried. A dark- coloured granite occurs in many
places, in large blocks with scarcely any fissures, and is
much esteemed for ornamental buildings ; and a varie-
gated kind of granite, with black, white, and red spots,
which sparkle in the sun, is found in Badenoch. Free-
stone of a reddish colour, of compact texture, and sus-
septible of a high degree of polish, is met with on the
lands of Lovatt; but no sandstone occurs in the county.
There are some indications of coal ; but the only mine-
ral worked is lead-ore, of which there are mines in Ben-
Nevis, at Inverskaddel, near Loch Arkaig, Glengarry,
and other places. Black-lead, of good quality for pen-
cils, is also found, but is not wrought : there is clay
for bricks and tiles along the coast. The seats are,
Castle-Grant, Dunvegan, Castle-Mc Leod, Castle-Chis-
holme, Fasfern, Lochiel, Beaufort, Belladrum, Rothie-
murehus, Kinrara, Farraline, Belville, Glengarry, Dal-
chully, and others.
The principal manufactures are those of hemp, thread
4 E 2
I N V E
INVE
of various colours, kelp, bricks, and tiles ; and some
branches of the woollen manufacture, chiefly for domes-
tic use, and confined to private families. There are
several bleaching and print fields, tanneries, breweries,
and distilleries ; and at the villages on the coast, a con-
siderable trade is carried on in the exportation of cattle,
sheep, wool, timber, and slates, and in the importation
of coal, lime, flour, oatmeal, groceries, and other arti-
cles for home consumption. There are valuable salmon-
fisheries on the rivers ; the herring-fisheries, also, em-
ploy a considerable number of the inhabitants on the
western coast. Facility of communication is afforded
by several good roads which have been formed through-
out the interior ; and the Great Caledonian canal, which
intersects the county from north-cast to south-west,
passing through the valley of Glenmore for more than
sixty miles, and connecting the German Ocean with the
Atlantic, affords means of inland navigation for ships of
almost any burthen, and facility for the conveyance of
produce of all kinds. The rateable annual value of the
county is £182,064, of which £161,499 are returned for
lands, £17,S94 for houses, £2596 for fisheries, and £75
for quarries.
Among the various remains of antiquity are the
ruins of ancient fortresses consisting of stones of enor-
mous size, placed together without cement of any kind ;
they are generally of circular or elliptical form, contain-
ing, between two concentric walls, a considerable inter-
val supposed to have been used for keeping military and
other stores. The area within the inner wall, which
alone was pierced with windows, is thought to have
been occupied by the garrison. Of these fortresses the
three most perfect are at Glenelg, Castle- Spynie, in the
district of Aird, and Dun-da-law, in Badenoch. On the
summit of Craig-Phadic are the remains of a vitrified
fort of elliptical form, of which the longer diameter is
220 feet, and the shorter little more than half that
length ; and near Fort-William are the remains of a
similar fortress, called Dunghairdghall. Upon the east
bank of the river Lochy are the remains of Inverlochy
Castle, a square structure with circular towers at the
angles, surrounded by a ditch inclosing an area of 7000
square yards. On the summit of a precipitous rock
which divides the channel of the Lochy, are the ruins of
Tor Castle ; and on a projecting rock on the west side
of Loch Ness, are the remains of Urquhart Castle, which
was taken in 1303, by Edward I. of Englaud, who,
exasperated at the obstinate and protracted defence, put
the governor and the whole of the garrison to the
sword. The roads of Glenroy, consisting of three pa-
rallel lines on one side of the river, opposite to three
similar lines on the other, are most probably natural,
though some suppose them to have been made for the
purpose of hunting. There are several Druidical re-
mains ; and in the Frith of Beauly are some ancient
cairns, of which two, larger than the rest, rise above the
surface of the water, and have been found to contain
beams of timber, and human bones.
INVERNOCHTIE, county of Aberdeen. — See
Strathdon.
1NVERTIEL, or Westbridge, lately a quoad sacra
parish, partly in the parish of Abbotshall, and partly
in that of Kinghorn, district of Kirkcaldy, county
of Fife, 1 mile (S. W. by S.) from Kirkcaldy; con-
taining 1465 inhabitants. This district is estimated to
580
comprise 1000 acres, of which about 700 are in tillage,
200 in pasture, and the remainder under plantation.
The substratum consists chiefly of brown sandstone of
the coal formation ; and coal was for some time wrought,
but no mines are at present in operation. About 700
persons are employed in hand-loom weaving ; and there
is a flax-spinning mill, in which 100 hands are engaged.
The Frith of Forth lies on the south of the parish, and
the public road between Edinburgh and Dundee runs
close by the village. The ecclesiastical affairs are under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Kirkcaldy and
synod of Fife, and the patronage is vested in the heads
of families being communicants : the stipend of the
minister partly arises from seat-rents and collections.
The church, a plain structure, erected in 1836-7, by
subscription, aided by a grant of £272 from the Church-
Extension fund, contains 726 sittings, whereof a portion
are free: its erection removed, in a considerable mea-
sure, the inconvenience felt in the parish of Kinghorn
from want of accommodation and pastoral attendance.
The members of the Free Church bave now possession
of it. Sir Michael Scott, a celebrated statesman and
philosopher of the 13th century, one of the most learned
men of his age, and called by the people of his times
"the Wizard," was born, and resided, at Balwearie, in
this district : he was knighted by Alexander II., and
died in 1296.
INVERURY, a royal
burgh, and a parish, in the
^ district of Garioch, county
3 of Aberdeen, l6miles (N.W.)
M? fr°m Aberdeen, and 137 (N.
i<s4b n. E.) from Edinburgh ; con-
taining 2020 inhabitants, of
whom 1619 are in the burgh.
This place, which derives its
name from its situation at
the confluence of the river
Ury with the Don, is of re-
mote antiquity, and, as part
of the lordship of Garioch, was granted by William the
Lion to his brother, David, Earl of Huntingdon. Of
the baronial castle of the earl, which occupied a site
near the Bass, and which appears to have been the first
stronghold erected in the. county, there are no remains;
but a charter of the date of 117S is still extant, by
which the earl granted the church of Inverury, with
several others, to the abbey of Lindorcs. During the
wars with England in the reign of Edward I., Robert
Bruce, who had removed to this place from Sliach,
in Strathbogie, in a state of ill health, was attacked by
the English army under Cumyn, over whom he obtained
a signal victory, in acknowledgment of which he erected
the town of Inverury into a royal burgh. In 1745, a
battle occurred here between the forces of the Pretender
and the Macleods, the latter of whom Lord Loudon had
sent from the north, with a body of men, to relieve the
city of Aberdeen, at that time in the possession of the
rebels, who had imposed upon the inhabitants a tribute
of £1000. The Macleods, on their arrival at this place,
were attacked by Lord Lewis Gordon, who, with a force
of 1200 men, crossing the river Ury, surprised and
defeated them : there was, however, a sharp encounter,
in which many were killed and taken prisoners on both
sides.
Burz.h Seal.
I N V E
I O N A
The town consists of irregularly-built and detached
houses, scattered along the turnpike-road from Huntly
to Aberdeen. From the difficulty of access previously
to the erection of the bridge over the Don, which was
built at a cost of £'2000, in 1 791 > the place was not
much more than an obscure village, and had neither any
manufacture nor trade. Upon that event, however, it
became of some little importance. The opening of the
Aberdeen and Invcrury canal, which was completed in
1807, at a cost of £44,000, gave an additional impulse
to its trade ; and the subsequent erection of bridges
over the river Ury has supplied all that was wanting to
its prosperity. Considerable improvements have since
taken place in the town, which is now lighted with gas.
The manufacture of linen is pursued to some extent,
affording employment to more than sixty of the inha-
bitants. Various handicraft trades, also, are carried on
for the accommodation of the adjacent district ; and
there are several shops well supplied v ith goods of every
kind. The increase of trade since the completion of the
canal has been very great; and large quantities of grain,
lime, coal, salt, and also other produce, are now sent
to, or received from, Port-Elphinstone, where the canal
terminates, near the bridge over the Don, on the oppo-
site bank of the river, in the parish of Kintore. The
post-office has a tolerable delivery. Branches of the
Aberdeen, the Town and County, and the North of
Scotland, banks, have recently been established ; and
facility of communication is afforded by good roads,
and by the canal, on which an iron boat for passengers
and light goods plies daily to Aberdeen. Fairs for
cattle, sheep, horses, and grain are held monthly, those
at Whitsuntide and Martinmas being likewise for hiring
servants; also every alternate Tuesday from November to
March. The town, after the loss of its original charter,
was created a royal burgh by charter of novodamus
by Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1558: the government is
vested in a provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and four councillors, chosen under the regu-
lations of the Municipal Reform act. There are no
incorporated trades ; but the guild burgesses have an
exclusive privilege of trading, and are exempt from the
payment of custom dues. The magistrates have juris-
diction over the whole of the royalty, and hold courts,
in civil actions to an unlimited amount, and in criminal
cases for the trial of petty delinquencies. The burgh
is associated with those of Banff, Cullen, Elgin,
Kintore, and Peterhead, in returning a member to the
imperial parliament ; the number of qualified voters is
ninety-four.
The parish, which is bounded on the south by the
river Don, and on the north and east by the Ury, is
about four miles in extreme length and two miles in
breadth, comprising an area of 5100 acres, of which
3000 are arable, 1000 woodland and plantations, and
the remainder moorland pasture and waste. The sur-
face, though level near the banks of the rivers, rises
gradually towards the west, terminating in the three
nearly equidistant hills of Manar to the south, Knock-
inglew in the centre, and Drimmies to the north, be-
tween which are some fine tracts of fertile vale. The
soil on the lower grounds is a rich light mould, super-
incumbent upon sand, but on the higher grounds of less
fertility ; the chief crops are oats and barley, with
potatoes and turnips, and the usual grasses. The sys-
581
tem of husbandry is improved, and the rotation of crops
is duly observed ; lime and bone-dust, for which the
canal affords facility of conveyance, are used as manure ;
and some of the unprofitable land has been brought
into cultivation. The Aberdeenshire breed of cattle is
that most prevalent ; but on some farms, a few of the
short-horned, &c., arc reared. There are no regular flocks
of sheep pastured, though a few of the English breed
are kept, for domestic use, and chiefly for their wool.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £6395. The
plantations are well attended to, and are generally in
a thriving state : there are considerable remains of
ancient wood. The rocks are chiefly of granite. Manar
House is a substantial modern mansion, beautifully
situated on the southern acclivity of Manar hill, com-
manding a fine view of the river Don, and surrounded
with plantations.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Garioch and synod of
Aberdeen. The minister's stipend is £25". 11., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum; patron,
the Earl of Kintore. The old church, built in 1775,
contained only 400 sittings, a number very inadequate
to the increased population ; and, consequently, a new
church, containing 1330 sittings, has been erected by
the heritors and the magistrates of the burgh. The
present structure is of beautiful granite, in the later
English style of architecture. The burial-ground of the
parish lies near the river Don. There are places of
worship for members of the Free Church, Independents,
and Wesleyans ; and an episcopal chapel has recently
been built. A Roman Catholic seminary, formerly at
Aquhorties, in this parish, has been removed to Blairs,
in the parish of Maryculter, county of Kincardine ; and
the ancient building, beautifully situated, is at present
a farm house. The parochial school is attended by
about ninety children ; the master has a salary of £30,
with a house and garden, and the fees average £35
annually. The chief monuments of antiquity are two
tumuli, one of which, called the Bass, and situated at
the southern extremity of the town, is in the form of a
truncated cone, and is supposed to have been a seat
for the administration of justice ; the other, called the
Conyng hillock, is traditionally said to have been raised
over the remains of one of the Pictish kings. There is
also a very complete Druidical temple. Invcrury gives
the title'of Baron to the Earl of Kintore.
IONA, or Icolmkill, an island of the Hebrides,
and also a quoad sacra parish, in the parish of Kil-
finichen, district of Mull, county of Argyll ; con-
taining 10S4 inhabitants, of whom 460 are on the
island. This place, which is of remote antiquity, is
situated to the south-west of the Isle of Mull, in the
Atlantic Ocean ; and, at a very early period, was the
principal seat of the Druidical worship, from which cir-
cumstance it obtained the appellation of Inish-Druinish,
or the " Island of Druids." It was subsequently occu-
pied by the ancient Culdees, for whom, it is recorded,
Fergus II. erected a monastery and a stately church,
which became the burying-place of many of his suc-
cessors, kings of Scotland. Its namelona, signifying, in
the Gaelic language, the " Island of Waves," appears to
have been derived from the violent agitations of the
narrow sound by which it is separated from Mull : that
of Icolmkill, by which it is not uncommonly known,
IO N A
arose from the foundation of a religious establishment
by St. Columba, about the middle of the sixth century.
St. Columba, emigrating from Ireland, for the conver-
sion of the natives of the Hebrides to the Christian
faith, landed here, with twelve of his companions, in
the year 563, and, having converted many of the
northern Plots to Christianity, received from their king
a grant of the island, on which he founded a monas-
tery for canons regular of the order of St. Augustine,
ihis monastery, which was amply endowed, flourished
under the superintendence of its founder, and acquired
such reputation for sanctity and learning as to obtain
tor the isle the appellation of the Holy Island, and to
render it the resort of pious and learned men from
Ireland, Norway, and all parts of Scotland, for which
it was the principal school of theology and philosophy.
St. Columba presided over the" monastery he had
founded till his death in 597, at which time his zeal for
the propagation of Christianity had prompted him to
found, in various parts of Britain, 100 monasteries and
365 churches, and to ordain not less than 3000 priests.
The island hence became the grand centre from which
the truths of the Christian religion, and the benefits of
sound learning, were diffused to every portion of the
kingdom; and after the death of St. Columba, the
monastery continued to flourish under his successors,
and was held in such veneration, that the island was
regarded as consecrated ground, and became the burying-
place of many of the kings of Ireland and Norway.
From this monastery, which was independent of the
papal jurisdiction, and in which, under St. Columba
and his successors, the principles and discipline of the
Culdees were retained, Oswald, king of Northumbria, in
632, obtained a bishop to teach his subjects the prin-
ciples of Christianity ; and in 765, Neil Frasaeh, King
of Ireland, abdicated the sovereignty, and retired to this
island, where he died. In 777, Asglal, son of the King
of Connaught, became a monk of Iona, which was still,
and continued for many years, the principal university
of Britain, to which the young princes of Scotland,
Northumbria, and other kingdoms, were sent to receive
their education. The monastery subsequently became
subject to the predatory incursions of the northern
pirates, by whom it was frequently plundered and laid
waste; and in 797, it was burnt by the Danes, who,
again, in 801, massacred nearly eighty of the monks,
and compelled the abbot and the rest to seek safety by
flight. On its restoration after the retreat of the Danes,
the monastery was refounded for monks of the Cluniac
order, under whose superintendence it subsisted till the
dissolution ; its revenues were then appropriated to the
see of Argyll, and, after the abolition of episcopacy,
became the property of the dukes.
Of the ancient buildings connected with the monas-
tery, the principal remains are those of the abbey
church, which was also the cathedral of the bishops of
the Isles, and, with its tower, is almost entire. It is a
cruciform structure of red granite, chiefly in the Norman
style, 160 feet in length, seventy feet across the tran-
septs, and twenty-four feet in mean breadth, with a
tower rising from the centre to the height of seventy
feet. The choir, which is sixty feet in length, is divided
from the nave by massive circular columns, supporting
the tower, and of which the capitals are sculptured with
grotesque figures, displaying scriptural allusions and
5S2
IONA
other devices. The nave and choir are separated from
the aisles by ranges of columns of similar form, and
obtusely-pointed arches, sustaining the roof; and are
lighted by a lower tier of large windows of various
character and inelegant design, and by a range of
clerestory windows, of which some are Norman, and
others headed in trefoil. The high altar, of marble
brought from the Isle of Skye, unfortunately acquired
the reputation of possessing a charm against shipwreck,
and has totally disappeared by fragments. Around the
cathedral are various ruins of walls, supposed to have
been chapels, and parts of the monastic buildings : four
of the arches of the cloister are still remaining, and
portions of the bishop's palace, the hall, and the re-
fectory. On the south side of the cathedral are the
remains of St. Oran's chapel, a rude edifice sixty feet
in length, and twenty-two feet broad, in a roofless state,
but otherwise in good preservation : the sculpture of
the doorway, which is a Norman arch, with chevron
mouldings, is especially worthy of attention. It con-
tains various tombs of different periods, among which
is that of St. Oran, the disciple of St. Columba, a hand-
some monument, apparently of much more recent date
than the chapel. On the north of this chapel are the
ruins of the Nunnery, or rather the chapel of the Nun-
nery, a structure in the Norman style, nearly of the
same dimensions as the chapel of St. Oran ; part of the
vaulted roof is still remaining, and there are some very
slender traces of the conventual buildings. The tomb-
stone of the Princess Anna, lady abbess, is yet to be
seen; it bears the date 1543, and has a figure of the
abbess, in the attitude of prayer to the Virgin Mary, who
has an infant in her arms, and a mitre on her head.
To the south of St. Oran's chapel is the inclosure
called " Relig-Owran," or "the burying-place of Oran,"
in which are a vast number of tombs, overgrown with
grass and weeds, and mostly so defaced as to render the
inscriptions on them altogether illegible. In this ceme-
tery it is said that one of the kings of France, four
kings of Ireland, eight kings of Norway, and forty-eight
kings of Scotland, are interred, the last commencing
with Fergus II. and ending with Macbeth, whose suc-
cessor, Malcolm Canmore, removed the place of royal
sepulture to Dunfermline. The precincts of the ceme-
tery, which contained also the tombs of the lords of the
Isles, and of the most distinguished families, had the
privilege of sanctuary ; and in various parts of the
island were not less than 360 crosses of stone, of which
four only are now left. At the time of the Reforma-
tion, the synod of Argyll ordered sixty of these crosses
to be thrown into the sea ; and the remainder appear to
have been either wantonly destroyed, or suffered to fall
from neglect. Of those that remain, two are in a per-
fect state, of which one is sculptured with figures of
Adam and Eve, standing by the forbidden tree ; the
third has only ten feet of the shaft, and of the fourth
the foot only is left, imbedded in a mound of earth. In
order to preserve all these venerable remains from fur-
ther injury, they have been inclosed with walls by the
Duke of Argyll, and placed under the vigilant superin-
tendence of a keeper.
The island is about three miles in extreme length,
and a mile and a half in average breadth, comprising an
area of 2000 acres, of which not more than 600 are
arable, and the remainder hill pasture, rock, or morass.
1 R V I
I R V 1
The surface rises into eminences, of which the highest,
Dun-ii, has an elevation of 400 feet above the level of
the sea. The coast on the eastern side is low and
sandy, and is indented with a bay, called the Bay of
Martyrs, in which were landed the bodies of such as
were intended for interment in the cemetery. This bay,
which affords good anchorage in five fathoms, within
two cables' length of the shore, is frequented by nu-
merous steamers conveying passengers to visit the
island; and near it is the village, containing about 170
persons. On the western shore of the isle is Port-na-
Currach, or the " bay of the boat," where St. Columba
is said to have landed, in commemoration of which
event a heap of earth, about fifty feet in length, was
thrown up in the form of a boat, with the keel upwards.
Numerous small springs of excellent water intersect the
island ; and near the abbey gardens are vestiges of an
artificial lake of several acres, surrounded by hills ; also
the ruins of a mill. The soil of the arable land is light
and sandy, but fertile, producing favourable crops ;
several of the hills are arable to their summit, and in
good cultivation, and most of the others afford excellent
pasture. Marble of good quality was formerly wrought
by the Duke of Argyll, and considerable quantities sent
to Leith and London ; but the mines have been discon-
tinued for some time. Pebbles of green serpentine,
also, are found along the shore ; they are susceptible
of a high polish, and are formed into various elegant
trinkets. The quoad sacra parish of Iona, erected by
authority of act of parliament, comprises, besides the
island, a district of Mull, containing a population of
620 persons : the ecclesiastical affairs are placed under
the superintendence of the presbytery of Mull and synod
of Argyll. The minister's stipend is £120, paid by
government, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £1. 10.
per annum ; patron, the Crown. The church, erected
by government, in 1S28, at a cost of £700, is a neat
structure containing 266 sittings. The members of the
Free Church have a place of worship. A school, for
which an appropriate building has been erected by the
Duke of Argyll, is supported by government ; and there
is also a school maintained by a Society.
IRONGRAY, Kirkcudbright. — See Kirkpa-
trick-Irongray.
Obverse.
Seal.
IRVINE, a parish, in the district of Cunning-
hams, county of Ayr, 26 miles (W. S. W.) from Glasgow,
and 6875 (W. by S.) from Edinburgh; containing 5214
inhabitants, of whom 4594 are resident within the
burgh of Irvine ; exclusively of 3053 in the parish of
Dundonald, into which the town extends, the total
population of the town being 7647. This place derives
583
its name from the river on which it is situated, and
appears to have attained a high degree of importance at
a very early period. The inhabitants obtained from
Alexander II. a charter conferring upon the town all the
privileges of a royal burgh ; and a charter confirming
all previous grants was subsequently given to them by
Robert Bruce, in recompense of their services during
his wars with England in the reign of Edward I. These
two charters were renewed and enlarged by successive
sovereigns till the reign of James VI. ; and the various
immunities possessed by the inhabitants were ratified
by parliament in 1641. The town is finely situated on
the north-east bank of the river Irvine, near its junction
with the Garnock, and consists partly of one spacious
street, extending throughout its whole length, from,
which diverge several smaller but well-formed streets,
at right angles. The streets are well paved, and lighted
with gas ; and the inhabitants are amply supplied with
water. A public library was established in 1796, and is
supported by subscription ; there is also a reading and
news room, well supplied with the daily journals and
the most esteemed periodical publications. A handsome
bridge, erected in 1746, and greatly improved in 1S27,
connects the town with the spacious suburb of Fullar-
ton, on the opposite bank of the river ; and in the im-
mediate vicinity are some fine downs, on which the
game of golf takes place, and the Eglinton races are
held. The environs are interspersed with numerous
pleasant villas ; and the scenery, in itself picturesque,
is heightened by the proximity of the grounds of Eglin-
ton Park.
The chief manufacture carried on is the weaving of
book-muslin, jaconets, and checks, in which more than
500 looms are engaged ; and great numbers of females
are employed in tambouring muslin. The manufacture
of anchors and cables is also considerable : there are
extensive rope- walks, a yard for ship-building, and some
works for magnesia and other chemical processes. The
trade of the port, which, previously to the erection of
Port-Glasgow, was the shipping-place of the Glasgow
merchants, now consists principally in the export of
coal, of which nearly 300,000 tons are annually shipped,
chiefly for Ireland and various parts of the British coast,
but occasionally for France, Malta, Gibraltar, and other
foreign parts. The chief imports are, timber, and some-
times grain, from America ; grain and butter, in large
quantities, from Ireland ; and iron, slates, and limestone,
from various places. The number of vessels belonging
to the port, in 1S43, was 122, of 15,380 tons' aggregate
burthen 5 and the amount of duties paid at the custom-
house, £2040. The harbour, which was greatly im-
proved in 1826, and has since been under the superin-
tendence of commissioners, has more than thirteen feet
depth of water on the bar at spring-tides, and is acces-
sible to vessels not exceeding 250 tons. The jurisdic-
tion of the port extends over that portion of the coast
included between Troon and Largs. The post-office has
a good delivery. Branches of the Union, Ayrshire, and
British Linen Company's banks, have been established ;
and great facility of communication is afforded by the
Glasgow and Ayr railway, which has one of its inter-
mediate stations in the town. The market, which is
abundantly supplied with grain and provisions of all
kinds, is on Monday. Fairs are held on the first Wed-
nesday in January, for horses ; the first Tuesday in
I R V I
I S L A
May, for cattle ; and the third Monday and Wednesday
in August, for horses, and for lint and wool. The an-
cient market-cross, a very elegant structure in the centre
of the town, was removed in 1694, and the materials
employed in the erection of the present meal-market.
The government of the burgh, by the charter of
James VI., is vested in a provost, two bailies, a dean of
guild, and a treasurer, with twelve councillors, chosen
under the regulations of the Municipal Reform act.
There are six incorporated trades, namely, the shoe-
makers, coopers, tailors, weavers, hammermen, and
squaremen. The fee of admission as a guild burgess is
£5; and as a common burgess, £2. 10. for a stranger,
and half that sum for a sou or son-in-law of a bur-
gess. The magistrates, whose jurisdiction is confined to
the royalty, hold burgh courts both in civil and cri-
minal matters; and a justice-of-peace court is regularly
held here, as is also a sheriff's court. The town-
hall, situated in the centre of the principal street, was
built in 1/45, and is a neat plain structure, contain-
ing a court-room and a council-chamber, the public
library, and three apartments for criminals. The
debtors' prison has been discontinued since 1840, under
the new Prison act, and has been transferred to the
county gaol of Ayr, whither, also, all criminal prisoners
are sent whose cases require more than temporary con-
finement. The burgh is associated with those of Ayr,
Campbelltown, Inverary, and Oban, in returning a
member to the imperial parliament : the number of
qualified voters, including the suburb of Fullarton,
which is within the parliamentary boundaries, is 237.
The parish, situated in the north-western portion of
the county, is bounded on the east and south-east by
the river Annick ; on the west, by the Irvine ; and on
the north-west, by the river Garnock. It is about four
miles in length and nearly two in extreme breadth,
comprising an area of almost 4000 acres, of which 3000
are arable, and the remainder, woodland, plantations,
and waste. The surface along the shore, and on the
banks of the rivers, is flat and sandy ; the soil near the
town is a light rich loam, and in the higher parts a
strong clay. The crops are, wheat, oats, barley, pota-
toes, and turnips; the system of husbandry is improved;
the lands are well drained and inclosed, and the farm-
buildings generally substantial and commodious. The
dairy-farms are well managed, and the produce is in
high reputation. The rateable annual value of the parish
is £10,156. The plantations distributed over various
parts are mostly in a thriving state : there are some
considerable remains of ancient timber. The chief sub-
strata are, coal, of which there are numerous seams ;
and whinstone, of good quality for building, and of which
an extensive quarry, near the town, is in full operation.
The only seat of importance is Bourtree Hill, pleasantly
situated on the banks of the Annick, about a mile and
a half to the east of the town.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superinten-
dence of the presbytery of Irvine, of which this place
is the seat, and the synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The
minister's stipend is £280. 9-, with a manse, and a glebe
valued at £25 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Eglin-
ton. The church, erected in 1774, and repaired in
1830, is a spacious structure with a handsome tower
and spire, and contains 1800 sittings. There are places
of worship for members of the Free Church, the Relief
584
and Secession Synods, and Baptists. The academy, for
which a building was erected in the town in 1S16,
capable of receiving 500 pupils, is under the patronage
of the corporation, who appoint a rector with a salary
of £30, and an English master and a commercial master,
who are in receipt of salaries of £30 each, in addition to
the fees, which, however, are moderate. Near Bourtree
Hill are some remains of an ancient structure called
Stone Castle, belonging to the Earl of Eglinton ; the
principal portion is a square tower, of unknown anti-
quity. With this castle is said to have been connected
a nunnery with a chapel and cemetery. Irvine is re-
markable as the birthplace of Montgomery, the poet,
and of Gait, the novelist ; and as having been for some
time the residence of Burns : whilst the last named
was endeavouring to establish himself in business here,
his shop was unfortunately burnt, and his prospects
blighted.
ISLAY, a large island, in the county of Argyll ;
comprising the parishes of Kilchoman, Kildalton, and
Kilarrow ; and containing 13,602 inhabitants. It is
variously called, by some Ila, Hay, and Isla, but more
commonly Islay ; and is, according to some accounts,
twenty-eight miles in length and eighteen in breadth,
while others make its length twenty-five miles and its
breadth twenty-two. The island is separated from Jura
by a narrow sound, over which is a ferry from Portas-
kaig to Feoline on the opposite shore. Islay was once
a part of the kingdom of the lords of the Isles, who
were crowned here by the bishops of Argyll, upon a
large stone, which is still pointed out ; and numerous
ruins and memorials of antiquity, consisting of castles,
forts, and chapels, are to be found in almost every
direction, attesting the former importance of the isle.
It continued under the lords until the reign of James III. ;
and when their power was abolished, their descendants,
the Macdonalds, were the proprietors, holding directly
of the Crown. It afterwards passed, by the fortune of
war, to the Macleans ; but James VI., irritated at the dis-
turbances raised by the private wars waged between these
and other clans, rescinded the grant made by his pre-
decessor, and transferred the lands of Islay, Jura, and
Muckairu, to Sir John Campbell, of Cawdor, ancestor
of the earls Cawdor, in consideration of an annual feu-
duty, whereof the portion for this island was £500, paid
to this day. It is now the property of another family
of the same name, a member of whom was lately the
representative of the county.
Islay is in general mountainous, especially towards
the north, but there is much low, level, and cultivated
land ; the coast is indented by bays and points, and
the shores are for the most part rugged. The inlets of
Loch Indal and Loch Gruuard nearly insulate a consi-
derable part of the district of Kilchoman ; and besides
several inland lakes, there are numerous streams and
rivulets, in some of which are salmon and trout : the
whole coast, also, abounds with fish. Lead-mines were
at one time very successfully wrought, to the north-west
of Portaskaig ; and a copper-mine, likewise, was long in
operation ; but as the ore was mixed with lead, and the
separation was troublesome, both mines were at length
abandoned. The facilities for the improvement of the
land are very great, and more than one-half of the sur-
face could be brought into regular tillage. The island
boasts of the breed and number of its cattle and horses;
JANE
J ED B
but whisky, for which it is also celebrated, is the great
staple commodity, producing annually to government a
revenue of more than £30,000 : two-thirds of the grain
used in the distillation are raised on the isle. Bow-
more is the principal village ; it is situated on the
banks of Loch Indal, at the extremity of the bay, and
is a neat and improving modern village, consisting of
regularly-formed streets, which intersect each other at
right angles, and the houses are in general well built.
It has an excellent harbour, with a fine quay, and there
is good anchorage for vessels drawing ten feet of
water. The village is the seat of the presbytery of
Islay and Jura. See Bowmore. There are a few
handsome seats : Islay House stands at the head of
Loch Indal, having in front an extensive level lawn, and
is surrounded by plantations, the ground gently rising,
and being extremely well-wooded behind. Ardnave,
near Loch Grunard, was either the birthplace or the
paternal residence of the lady of Prince Polignac, in-
volved in the fate of Charles X. of France, and for years
a state prisoner in the fortress of Ham. On the islet of
Oversay, opposite to Portnahaven, is a very fine light-
house, of which the light, flashing every five seconds, is
seen at the distance of seventeen nautical miles. — See
KlLCHOMAN, KlLDALTON, and KlLARROW.
ISLE OF WHITHORN.— See Whithorn, Isle
OF.
ISSAY, an island, in that part of the parish of
Duirinish which constituted the late quoad sacra
parish of Waternish, county of Inverness; contain-
ing 90 inhabitants. This isle, also called Eilean Isa, or
" Island of Jesus," is the largest of several isles lying
between Loch Bay and Loth Dunvegan, two considera-
ble north-western inlets of the Isle of Skye. It is about
three miles in circumference ; and the soil, being gene-
rally fertile, affords comfortable support to about fifteen
families.
JAMESTOWN, or Dam head, a village, in the pa-
rish of Bonhill, county of Dumbarton; containing
314 inhabitants. This place, heretofore a small hamlet,
has latterly increased in population and extent, owing
to the numerous and flourishing calico-printing and
bleaching establishments which have sprung up in the
parish, and in which the population here are chiefly
employed.
JAMESTOWN, a village, in the parish of Contin,
county of Ross and Cromarty; containing 115 inha-
bitants.
JANETOWN, a village, in the parish of Lochcar-
ron, county of Ross and Cromarty, 1 mile (S.) from
Lochcarron ; containing 513 inhabitants. It is situated
on the eastern shore of the Carron loch, an arm of the
sea into which falls the Carron water about two miles
northward of the village. From a very small hamlet
consisting of only three families, it has risen latterly
into comparative importance, in consequence, princi-
pally, of the division of land into lots. The high road
from Dingwall to the western coast passes through ;
and there is a post-office, where the mails arrive three
times a week. On the Carron is a good salmon-fishery.
Vol. I.— 585
Bursh Seal.
JEDBURGH, a burgh,
market-town, and parish, in
the district of Jedburgh,
county of Roxburgh, of
which it is the capital, 11
miles (S. W. by S.) from
Kelso, and 49 (S. E. by S.)
from Edinburgh ; contain-
ing, with the villages of Bon-
gate, Bonjedward, Lanton,
andUlston, 5116 inhabitants,
of whom 2697are inthe town.
This place derives its name,
originally Jedworih, or Jedicvod, from its situation on
the river Jed, which rises on the north side of the Car-
lin Tooth, in the Cheviot range, and, after flowing with
considerable rapidity through nearly the whole length
of the parish, and receiving in its course numerous
tributary streams which descend from the higher lands
into the vale of the Jed, falls into the river Teviot
about two miles and a half to the north of Jedburgh.
From the name of the river, in ancient records fre-
quently called Ged or Gad, this place is thought to have
been the principal seat of the Gadeni, who occupied the
district lying between the county of Northumberland
and the river Teviot. The ancient town, now called
Old Jedworth, in contradistinction to the present burgh,
from which it is about four miles distant, appears to
have originated in the foundation of a chapel by Ecgred,
Bishop of Lindisfarn, who died in S45 ; and there are
still some slight remains of the walls of the building,
and of the tombstones in the cemetery, though scarcely
above the level of the ground, and perfectly hidden by
the grass by which they are overspread. The present
town owes its origin to the foundation of the magnificent
abbey of Jedburgh. This establishment is, by some
historians, said to have been founded in 1118, and by
others in 1147; but, from the great antiquity of some
parts of the structure, and also from old documents in
which St. Kennock is mentioned as abbot in the year
1000, it is supposed to have existed prior to the time of
David I., by whom it was probably rebuilt or enlarged.
From the situation of Jedburgh as a border town, it was
exposed to continual depredations, and was frequently
plundered and reduced to ashes. It suffered materially
during the invasion of Scotland by Edward I., and sub-
sequently by the incursions of hostile clans ; the abbey
was burnt and pillaged by the Earl of Surrey in 1523,
and by the Earl of Hertford in 1545. In 1566, Mary,
Queen of Scots, attended by an armed retinue, held a
court of justice at this place, for the suppression of the
turbulence of the borderers ; and, being seized with a
dangerous illness during her continuance here, resided in
" the house of the Lord Compositor" till her recovery,
when she returned along the eastern borders to Dunbar.
In 1575, a severe affray, called the " Raid of the Reed
Swire," happened here ; it was the last of those hostile
feuds which so frequently took place between the bor-
derers of Scotland and England; and since its occur-
rence the only event deserving of historical notice, has
been the temporary alarm created by the arrival of the
Pretender and his Highland troops in 1745.
From its exposed situation, the town was strongly
defended by castles, and by numerous other fortifica-
tions ; and the forest in its immediate vicinity was the
4 F
JEDB
JE D B
rendezvous of numerous armies. The Castle of Jedburgh
was of great antiquity, though the precise time of its
erection, and the name of its original founder, are un-
known ; it was a place of much strength, and the favour-
ite seat of Malcolm IV., who died here in 1165. It
was the frequent residence, also, of many others of the
kings, among whom were, William the Lion, Alexander
II., and Alexander III., whose son, Alexander, was born
here in 1263, and who, after the death of his children,
celebrated in this castle, with unusual pomp, his subse-
quent marriage with Jolande, daughter of the Count de
Dreux. During the wars between the two kingdoms,
the castle was often an object of contest : after the
battle of Durham, it was taken by the English, who
kept possession of it till 1409, when it was retaken by
the Scots, by whom it was afterwards demolished. The
Castle of Fernihirst, situated on the eastern bank of the
river Jed, about two miles from Jedburgh, is supposed
to have been founded by the ancestors of the Marquess
of Lothian ; it was taken in 1523, by the Earl of Sur-
rey, and remained in the hands of the English till 1547,
when, after an obstinate siege, it was retaken by the
Scots, assisted by a party of French at that time sta-
tioned at Jedburgh. In 1569, the Earl of Westmorland,
who had entered into a rebellion against Elizabeth, in
favour of Mary, after the dispersion of his troops took
refuge in this castle, where he remained in concealment
till he finally effected his escape into the Netherlands.
In the year following, the castle, in consequence of its
owner having joined with others of the border chiefs,
in an irruption into the English pale, was taken and de-
molished by the Earl of Sussex and Sir John Foster ;
but it was rebuilt in 159S, and part still remains entire.
After the destruction of Jedburgh Castle, the town was
defended by six towers, of which, however, there are
none remaining ; and other fortifications were scattered
through the parish, of which the tower at Lanton, nd
the ruins of another at Timpandeau, are still left.
The town is pleasingly situated in the picturesque
and fertile valley of the river Jed, over which, within
the parish, are nine bridges. Of these, one at the foot
of the Canongate, handsomely built of stone, and having
three ribbed circular arches, is of great antiquity, and
had formerly a gateway over the centre, long since
removed. The bridge near Bongate is of modern erec-
tion : and near it is a large stone, sculptured with
representations of various animals, and inscribed with
nearly obliterated characters, and which is supposed to
have been the pedestal of the ancient cross of Bongate.
The house in which Queen Mary resided during her
illness is still entire ; it is a spacious building with walls
of great thickness, and some of the ancient tapestry is
yet preserved. It is at present the property of the
Lindsay family, by whom it was purchased from the
Scotts, of Ancrum. The streets are spacious and regu-
larly formed ; the houses in general well built ; and in
the immediate neighbourhood of the town, are many
handsome villas. There are three public libraries, of
which one, called the Company's Library, contains a very
extensive collection ; also a circulating library and a
reading-room, and two public reading-rooms. The prin-
cipal trade is the manufacture of blankets, flannels,
tartans, shawls, plaidings, hosiery, woollen-yarn, and
carpets, affording constant employment to nearly 400
persons. There are also foundries for brass and iron,
586
and a manufactory for printing-presses, in which latter
about twenty persons are engaged. The town has two
branch banks, one a branch of the Linen Company, and
the other of the National Bank ; likewise a savings'
bank for the district of Jedburgh, including the parishes
of Jedburgh, Ancrum, Bedrule, Southdean, Hobkirk,
Minto, Oxnam, and Crailing, established by Mr. Ruther-
ford, of Edgerston, in 1S15, and the expenses of which
are defrayed from a fund raised by subscription. The
market is on Tuesday, and is chiefly for grain, which is
sold by sample to a very considerable amount. Fairs
for horses and cattle are held by charter on the 26th
of May, or on the first Tuesday after ; the second
Tuesday in August, O. S. ; the 25th September, or on
the following Tuesday, if the 25th happen either on
Saturday, Sunday, or Monday ; and the first Tuesday
in November, O. S. Statute-fairs for hiring servants
occur at Whitsuntide and Martinmas ; and there are
markets, toll free, for sheep and cattle, established in
1 823, on the second Thursday in every month from De-
cember till the end of May. There are also large fairs
for sheep, at Rink, in the parish, seven miles from the
town, on July 12th, and October 15th, which are nume-
rously attended by farmers, and dealers in wool, both
of Scotland and England.
The various charters by which the burgh was origi-
nally incorporated were all destroyed during the wars
with England, in the course of which the town was fre-
quently burned ; but they were renewed and confirmed
by Queen Mary, in 1556, when the magistrates were
invested with the power of apprehending, and passing
sentence upon, criminals guilty of capital offences. By
another charter, James VI., in 3 569, granted to the
corporation all the revenues of the abbey of Jedburgh
arising within the parish, for the purpose of erecting
hospitals for the support of the poor and infirm, and for
other pious uses. This gift was ratified by parliament
in 1597 ; and a further charter was bestowed by Charles
II., in 1641. By these charters, the government of the
bm-gh is vested in a provost, four bailies, a dean of
guild, and a council of eighteen : the incorporated
trades consist of the smiths, weavers, shoemakers, ma-
sons, tailors, wrights, butchers, and glovers. Under
the act for amending the representation, the burgh
unites with those of Haddington, North Berwick, Lau-
der, and Dunbar, in returning one member to parlia-
ment. The original boundary has been enlarged by the
inclusion of a considerable suburb on the south side of
the river, and the exclusion of a few acres of uninha-
bited land: the number of houses of the value of £10 and
upwards is 208, and of those above £5 and below £10,
sixty-eight. The magistrates, in addition to their con-
troul within the burgh, exercise jurisdiction over the
great fair of St. James, near Kelso, where they preside
at a court to take cognizance of offences during the fair.
They hold, within the burgh, a bailie-court, and a court
of the dean of guild ; but since the sheriff's court, and
that of the justices of peace have been established, the
burgh [courts have greatly declined. The chief officer
under the corporation is the town-clerk, who holds his
office for life. The county-hall is a neat building of stone,
containing the necessary apartments for transacting
the public business of the county and the burgh. "The
Castle," comprising the gaol and bridewell, is a hand-
some edifice, well arranged for classification, and con-
J ED B
J ED B
tains day-rooms, airing-yards, and every requisite for
the health, cleanliness, and comfort of the prisoners.
The parish, which is divided into two detached por-
tions by the intervening parishes of Oxnam and South-
dean, is bounded on the north by the parishes of
Ancrum and Crailing, on the west by those of Bedrule
and Southdean, on the east by Oxnam and Eckford,
and on the south by the county of Northumberland.
The lower portion, in which the burgh is situated, is
about seven miles in length and five in breadth, and the
upper portion five miles in length and four in breadth,
including together an area of thirty-eight square miles.
The eastern part of the lower portion is intersected by
the river Oxnam, and the northern part by the Teviot.
The surface is pleasingly diversified with hills and val-
leys : the high grounds on the sides of the vale of Jed
are penetrated by deep ravines, and in some places gra-
dually attain an elevation of 300 feet above the level of
the river. In the upper part of the parish are several
green hills, of conical form, of which two, rising to the
height of 1100 feet, are apparently lessened from their
proximity to Carter Fell, one of the Cheviot hills, which
has an elevation of more than 2000 feet. The Dunian,
the highest hill in the parish, but of w'hich the summit
is in the parish of Bedrule, has an elevation of 1120
feet above the level of the sea. Some remains of the
ancient forest of Jed, consisting of a few clusters of
birch-trees, still exist near Fernihirst ; and considerable
plantations, which have now attained a luxuriant growth,
add much to the beauty of the scenery. Two oaks, also,
of the ancient forest are yet left, near the town : the
one, rising to the height of ninety-nine feet, measures
fourteen feet in girth ; and the other, which has less
height, but branches out more widely, is twenty-one
feet in girth at three feet from the ground. Forest-
trees of every kind grow well in the lower lands ; in the
higher, Scotch fir and larch are the most prevalent.
From the old stocks in the forest, which was cut down
in the last century, many new trees have arisen ; and
the whole district abounds in timber.
The soil is peculiarly favourable for the growth of
fruit-trees ; and pears in great variety, and of the finest
quality, are produced in abundance. The land, espe-
cially in the lower districts, is fertile, and of good
quality, and the system of agriculture is much im-
proved ; considerable tracts of waste have been re-
claimed within the last thirty years, and at present the
number of acres under tillage is 14/2S1, in pasture 6930,
and under wood 24SS. The prevailing plan of husban-
dry is the five-shift, consisting of two white and three
green crops ; the fences and in closures are kept in excel-
lent order, and the farm-buildings are commodious and
in good repair. Many improvements have been made
in draining and planting, and in the breed of stock,
under an association called the Farmers' Club ; and the
Roxburgh Horticultural Society hold monthly meetings
in the town from the beginning of April to the end of
September, for the distribution of prizes to the most
successful growers of flowers, fruits, and vegetables.
Limestone of excellent quality abounds in the southern
parts of the parish ; and near the town are several
strata ranged above each other, of which one is nine
inches in thickness. Coal exists, and there are appear-
ances of its having been formerly worked ; but some
recent attempts to procure it have been discontinued.
5S7
There are several sandstone quarries, of a white, and
also of a reddish colour. Iron-ore is found in a bed
three feet in thickness, occurring between the primary
and secondary formations, which near the town are
seen in combination ; the strata of the former are ver-
tical and in many places irregular, and of the latter
horizontal, alternating with red freestone and soft sand-
stone of the same colour. Several of the hills are of
whinstone, resting on sandstone. The chief seats in the
parish are, Edgerston, Mossburnford, Langlee, Lintalee,
Hundalee, Glenburn Hall, Hunthill, Stewartfield, and
Bonjedward. The rateable annual value of Jedburgh
is £22,370.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superin-
tendence of the presbytery of Jedburgh, of which this is
the seat, and of the synod of Merse and Teviotdale ;
patron, the Crown. The stipend of the incumbent is
£297, 'with a manse, built in 1S06 ; and the glebe com-
prises seven acres of arable land worth £5 per acre, and
pasture land which lets for £13. 13. The church is
part of the ancient abbey, of which the western portion
of the nave has been fitted up for public worship, and
affords accommodation to 910 persons. Of that stately
and magnificent structure, situated on the sloping bank
of the river Jed, near the southern extremity of the
town, the only remains are, the nave, the north tran-
sept, and the choir of the church, a cruciform building,
230 feet in length, with a massive central tower, rising
to the height of 100 feet, and surmounted by a pro-
jecting battlement crowned with turrets and pinnacles.
The western entrance is strikingly beautiful, consisting
of a lofty Norman doorway of deeply-recessed arches,
springing from slender clustered columns, richly moulded
and elaborately ornamented. Above the doorway is a
spacious window of three compartments, of which the
central arch is circular, and the others finely pointed j
and in the gable is a round window of very elegant
design. The nave, which is 130 feet in length, is sepa-
rated on each side, from the aisles, by a series of lofty
arches supported on clustered columns with sculptured
capitals : the triforium consists of semicircular arches
richly moulded, circumscribing two pointed windows
of elegant tracery ; and the clerestory, of a range
of pointed windows of graceful proportions. The
choir, which is greatly dilapidated, is of more ancient
character. Its roof is supported on massive pillars,
from which spring broad circular arches of the earlier
Norman style, ornamented with zigzag mouldings ; the
triforium is of similar character, surmounted by a range
of sharply-pointed clerestory windows of later date.
The north transept, which is still entire, is embellished
with windows of elegant design, highly enriched with
tracery ; and the principal window is of lofty dimen-
sions and of great beaut}'. The south transept, the
cloisters, the chapter-house, and other conventual build-
ings, have all disappeared ; but a doorway, forming the
south entrance to the church from the cloisters, is still
remaining, an almost unrivalled specimen of architec-
tural beauty and elaborate decoration. On the south
side of the choir is a chapel, formerly used as a gram-
mar school. Places of worship have been erected for
one congregation of the denomination called the Relief,
and for two congregations of the United Secession ;
the meeting-houses are all neat buildings of stone.
There are also a Free Church and Episcopal chapel.
4 F 2
J E D B
J E M I
The United Schools of Jedburgh, consisting of the
grammar school and the burgh English school, united
in 1804, contain about 150 children, and are under the
superintendence of the heritors and the magistrates of
the burgh, by whom the rector is appointed. The rec-
tor receives from the burgh £21. 6. S., and £12 for the
English school, for which he is bound to keep an assist-
ant ; also £S. 6. 8. from the heritors, making a salary
of £41. 13. 4. The school fees amount on the average
to £120, and the otferings at Candlemas to nearly £30;
the rector has also a commodious house and garden.
The parochial schools at Lantern and Rink are well
attended ; the masters are allowed by the heritors
£11.2. each. There is also a school endowed by the Mar-
quess of Lothian. The town has two religious societies,
one for the diffusion of education, and the other for
imparting religious knowledge; they are supported by
subscriptions, amounting on an average to £15 per
annum. A dispensary was founded in 1807, chiefly by
donations from the Kerr family, and is maintained by
annual subscriptions : a commodious house, with baths
and other requisites, was erected in 1 822, by the then
Marquess of Lothian. The number of patients, who are
received from the parishes of Jedburgh, Ancrum, Bed-
rule, Southdean, Hobkirk, Minto, Oxnam, and Crailing,
amounts annually to about 220. A sum of money aris-
ing from accumulated legacies, chiefly by Lady Yes-
ter, of Fernihirst, is vested in the burgh magistrates,
producing an interest of £23, appropriated to the
education of poor children, and to the relief of the poor,
for whose benefit also about £40 are annually collected
at the church.
A Roman road, crossing the Jed and the Teviot about
half a mile above their junction, intersects the northern
part of the parish within two miles of the town ; it is
paved with whinstone, and in a state of good preserva-
tion. There are also vestiges of an ancient road lead-
ing over the high ground from Ancrum bridge to the
town. Near Monklaw are the remains of a Roman
camp about 160 yards square; and there are traces of
camps at Howdean, Swinnie, Camptown, and Ferni-
hirst, but nearly obliterated by the progress of cultiva-
tion. At Lintalee are the remains of an encampment
formed by Douglas, for the defence of the frontier,
during the absence of Bruce in Ireland, and celebrated
for a memorable engagement in which the Earl of Rich-
mond, who had invaded Scotland at the head of 10,000
men, fell in a personal combat with Douglas : the double
rampart by which it was defended is still remaining.
In the face of the precipice below the camp, and now
inaccessible, is a cavern dug in the rocky bank of the
river Jed ; and at Hundalee and Mossburnford are
similar caverns, excavated in the rock as places of re-
fuge, and for the concealment of property during the
frequent irruptions of the English borderers. In the
year 1827, many Saxon coins of silver, chiefly of the
reign of Ethelred, and one of the reign of Canute, were
found in a field near Bongate, with a ring formed of
silver wire ; some of the coins are at present in the pos-
session of Mr. Bainbridge, of Gattonside, but most of
them are widely dispersed. Several coins of the reigns
of Edred, Edwy, Ethelred, Edward I. and III., and of
Henry I. and II., have been also found, near the abbey
bridge ; and some Roman coins are said to have been
discovered near Stewartsfield. A horn was discovered
5SS
near Swinnie within the last few years, containing silver
coins of James V. of Scotland ; and in the year 1S34,
about 400 silver coins of the reigns of Henry VIII.,
James V., and Mary, were ploughed up near the farm-
house of that place. A silver coin, or medal, comme-
morating the marriage of Mary, Queen of Scots, with
the Dauphin of France, was not long since found at
Larkhall. On one side are combined the letters F. and
M., surmounted by a crown, with the inscription, Fecit
vtraque ununi 1 558 ; on the other are the arms of Scot-
land impaled with those of the Dauphin, and the in-
scription, Fran, et Ma. D. G. R. R. Scotor. D. D. Vien.
Arrow-heads of flint are occasionally dug up on How-
dean moor, which is reported to have been the scene of
a battle ; and a camp-kettle, which was presented to
the late Sir Walter Scott by Mr. Rutherford, was found
some years since at Edgerston.
In IS! 5, a sarcophagus of stone, formed of unhewn
slabs, four feet six inches in length, and two feet six
inches in breadth, containing a large urn and three of
smaller size, one of which was full of pure water, was
found in a garden on the west side of the High-street.
The large urn, near which were parts of skulls, was of
very elegant form ; two of the smaller urns crumbled
into dust on being touched. In the same garden, which
is in some records called the Temple Garden, were dis-
covered the foundations of ancient buildings, at a depth
of six feet below the surface. A trophy taken from the
English at the battle of Bannockburn, and another from
the Highlanders at Killiecrankie, are in the possession
of the corporate body of weavers ; and another, taken
from the English at the battle of Newburn, in that of
the shoemakers. The inhabitants of Jedburgh, and of
the forest, constantly accustomed to warfare, were a
brave and hardy race ; and their valour is recorded by
the Earl of Surrey, in his despatches to Henry VIII.
respecting the storming of Jedburgh. Their favourite
weapon was the Jedworth axe, and their war-cry, "Jed-
worth's here." At Tudhope, about half a mile from the
town, is a spring strongly impregnated with sulphur
and iron, and found very efficacious in scorbutic disor-
ders ; there are chalybeate springs in several parts of
the parish, and at Gilliestongues is a petrifying spring.
Among the eminent persons of this place were nume-
rous abbots of Jedburgh, successors to St. Kennock,
and who held various high offices of trust and import-
ance under the kings of Scotland, and were greatly dis-
tinguished by their learning and talents. Adam Bell, a
brother of the Carmelite convent, who died here, was
the author of a history of Scotland from the earliest
period to the year 1535, entitled Rota Temporum. John
Rutherford, principal of St. Salvator's college, St. An-
drew's, and author of a work on the Art of Reasoning,
was a native of the town. Samuel Rutherford, princi-
pal of St. Mary's college, St. Andrew's, who was born
in an adjoining parish, received his early education in
the grammar school of Jedburgh, as did also the poet
Thomson ; and among other distinguished natives may
be named Andrew Young, regent of philosophy in the
university of Edinburgh, and Sir David Brewster.
JEMIMAVILLE, a village, in the parish of Kirk-
michael, or Resolis, county of Ross and Cromarty ;
containing 139 inhabitants. It is one of three very small
villages in the parish, and, though the largest of them,
- consists of only a group of houses, of an inferior class.
joiin
John
JOCK'S LODGE, a village, in the parish of South
Leith, county of Edinbihigh, 1| mile (E. by S.) from
Edinburgh ; containing 449 inhabitants. This is a con-
siderable, though scattered, village, situated on the south-
ern border of the parish, and on the road from Edinburgh
to Portobello and Musselburgh. It is said by some to
have had its eccentric name from that of a beggar who,
in the eighteenth century, inhabited a small tenement
on the spot ; but it appears, on better authority, that
the village was called Jock's Lodge in Cromwell's time.
It is opposite to Piershill cavalry barracks, which were
built in 1793, and are named from Colonel Piers, who
commanded a regiment stationed at Edinburgh in the
reign of George II., and who either erected or rented a
villa on the height of a rising ground overlooking Res-
talrig, now occupied by the officers' apartments, and
called Piershill. On the right hand of the village are
many neat residences.
JOHNSHAVEN,avillage, in the parish of Benholme,
county of Kincardine, 4 miles (S. W. by S.) from
Bervie ; containing 1 17*3 inhabitants. This place, which
comprises the principal part of the population of the
parish, is chiefly inhabited by fishermen and weavers,
whose houses are small and irregularly built. It is
situated on the shore of the German Ocean, close to a
small harbour which is frequented in summer by coal
sloops, and occasionally by vessels freighted with lime.
Off the coast, fish are caught, consisting for the most
part of cod, haddocks, and turbot.
JOHNSTONE, a parish, in the county of Dumfries,
9 miles (S. by E.) from Moffat; containing 107'' in-
habitants. It is generally supposed that the name of
this place was derived from some ancient and important
personage of the name of John, distinguished either by
his possessions or achievements, and to whose name the
ordinary Saxon termination ton or toun was added. The
parish from time immemorial has been the property of
the family of the Johnstones, lairds of Annandale, whose
castle of Lochwood was situated in the north of the
parish, and almost surrounded by impassable bogs and
marshes. This fort, which was a place of great strength,
and inaccessible to a foe, induced James VI. to declare,
that "he who built Lochwood, though outwardly an honest
man, must have been a knave at heart." About the
end of the sixteenth century, it was burnt by Robert,
natural brother to Lord John Maxwell ; in revenge for
which the Johnstones, who were a warlike tribe, assisted
by the famous Buccleuch, the Elliots, Armstrongs, and
Grahams, the bravest of the warriors of the Scottish
border, attacked and cut to pieces a party of the Max-
wells, near Lochmaben, where the incendiary himself,
Robert, was among the number of the slain. Those
who escaped taking refuge in the church of Lochmaben,
the sacred edifice was burnt to ashes by the Johnstones.
This rash and sacrilegious act occasioned the memorable
battle of Dryfesands, in which the Johnstones finally
prevailed, Lord Maxwell being attacked behind and slain
by "Will of Kirkhill," while engaged in single combat
with Lord Johnstone.
The parish is situated in that part of Dumfriesshire
known by the name of Annandale, and comprehends a
considerable portion of the old parishes of Garvald and
Dumgree ; it is six miles in length, and averages three
in breadth. It is bounded on the north by the parish of
Kirkpatrick Juxta ; and on the east by Applegarth and
5S9
Wamphray, from both which it is separated by the river
Annan. On the south, at a narrow point of about a
mile, forming the vertex of its triangular figure, is the
parish of Lochmaben ; and 011 the south-west, the river
Kinnel divides it from Kirkmichael parish. The country
is generally flat with a gradual ascent towards the west.
A large proportion of the surface is stony, supplying
great facilities for filling those thorough drains that have
been cut to so very considerable an extent of late.
The whole lies between the rivers Annan and Kin-
nel, with the exception of 2000 or 3000 acres to the
west, of the latter stream, which rise, in their ascent
towards Nithsdale, about 1200 or 1500 feet. The two
rivers form a junction two miles below the southern
extremity of the parish. The Annan abounds with yel-
low and sea trout, as well as eels and salmon. Its
banks are subject, in rainy and snowy seasons, to violent
inundations, from which great mischief has arisen to
the crops : two of the most remarkable floods were in
August 17S2, and in August, September, and October,
1790.
The soil of the flat alluvial land along the Annan is
a dry loam or gravel : in the other parts it is chiefly a
light loam, resting on gravel or rock, or a moorish soil
lying upon a retentive clay or till. There are several
peat-mosses, extending to some hundreds of acres. Be-
tween 5000 and 6000 acres are under tillage ; about
5000 are uncultivated, or in natural pasture ; from 500
to 1000, which have never been ploughed, are considered
capable of cultivation ; and 1500 are under plantations
or natural wood. Wheat was not very long since un-
known in this district, as a part of the produce ; but it
is now cultivated in a slight degree, with all other kinds
of grain ; and the green crops, of which turnips and
potatoes are the principal, are abundant and of good
quality. The most improved system of husbandry has
been for some time adopted, and within the last half
century the aspect of the parish has been entirely
changed by the construction of roads, the formation of
inclosures, and especially by the number of comfortable
dwellings erected for the accommodation of the labouring
classes. There are two sheep-farms, on which the stock
consists partly of the native black-faced, and partly of
the Cheviots. The cows are the Galloway, except upon
two or three dairy-farms, where they are entirely of the
pure Ayrshire breed. Great attention has been paid to the
improvement of cattle ; and the farmers have, in several
instances, obtained premiums from the Annandale Agri-
cultural Society.
The plantations receive much care. They were greatly
increased nearly half a century ago by the Earl of
Hopetoun, at which time a large quantity of Scotch firs,
interspersed with larch and spruce, were added to the
former stock. About a dozen of fallow-deer, in the
year 17S0, were put into an inclosure opposite the house
of Raehills, and after a while broke loose, and esta-
blished themselves among these extensive plantations.
Since that time no one has been able to capture or con-
troul them ; and they are now increased to the number,
as is supposed, of about 250. The rocks in the district
consist of red sandstone and whinstone, the latter of
which varies much in its fineness and consistence. At-
tempts have been made to discover a vein of lead-ore,
the existence of which seemed to be indicated by the
several portions occasionally found above the surface ;
JOHN
JOHN
but the expected success has not attended the under-
taking. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£4408. The mansion-house of Raehills, the seat of
J. J. Hope Johnstone, Esq., descendant of the earls of
Hopetoun, was principally built by James, third earl,
grandfather of the present possessor, in the year 17S6 ;
and is a castellated edifice, of the old baronial style
which prevailed in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. A large
addition, fronting the south, and containing an elegant
suite of apartments, has lately been erected, constituting
it one of the most splendid and imposing mansions in
the south of Scotland.
This is entirely an agricultural parish, and the popu-
lation are scattered. Considerable attention is paid by
them to the rearing of pigs, which are considered the
staple commodity. Large quantities are converted into
hams and flitches, and sent to Newcastle, Shields, and
Sunderland, whence a great proportion is shipped for
the London market. The road from London to Glasgow,
by Carlisle, passes for five miles through the parish ;
and that from Dumfries to Edinburgh, by Moffat, for
the same distance. A turnpike-road from Moffat to Loch-
maben and Annan runs for six miles, from north to
south, nearly through its centre. The London and
Glasgow, and Edinburgh and Dumfries, mails travel on
these roads. There is a bridge over the Kinnel at St.
Ann's, and one across the Annan at Johnstone Mills,
besides several over the smaller streams : all these, with
the roads, are kept in good repair. The ecclesiasti-
cal affairs are subject to the presbytery of Lochmaben
and synod of Dumfries ; patron, Mr. Johnstone. There
is a good manse, with a glebe of ten acres, worth about
20s. per acre : the stipend is £165. 13. The church,
which is inconveniently situated, on the eastern extre-
mity of the parish, was built in 1733, and rebuilt and
enlarged in 1818, and is now a comfortable and com-
modious edifice. There is a parochial school, where
Latin, Greek, and French are taught, with all the usual
branches of education. The master has the maximum
salary, with the fees, which average about £21 per
annum, and £3 received from a bequest left for his
benefit by Mr. Aitkin, farmer, of Kirkbank : he has also
the legal allowance of land. There are two other schools,
of which the teacher at Goodhope receives £16 a year
from the patron of the parish, with about £10 fees : the
master of the school of Cogrieburn-bridge has an in-
come of £10, independently of the fees. The parochial
library, now consisting of 300 volumes, was established
in 1828. There was once also a farming society, founded
in 1S18, which proved beneficial in supplying a stimu-
lus to improvements in husbandry, especially in the
breeding and rearing of cattle. Among the relics of
antiquity is a small barrow, or tumulus, near the farm
of Crawknowes, said to mark the spot where the Laird
of Lochwood, in a private quarrel, shot the Laird of
Dumgree, whose body he afterwards hid in the earth.
The only other memorial of antiquity is the old castle
of Lochwood, supposed to have been built during the
fourteenth century. Dr. Matthew Halliday, physician
to the Empress Catherine of Russia, and Dr. John Ro-
gerson, who succeeded him in that station, were born in
the parish of Johnstone ; the latter died about fifteen
years since.
JOHNSTONE, a village, or rather a manufacturing
town, and lately a quoad sacra parish, in the Abbey
590
parish of Paisley, Upper ward of the county of Ren-
frew, 3^ miles (W. by S.) from Paisley ; containing
5824 inhabitants. This place, which, about sixty years
since, consisted merely of a few scattered cottages, is
pleasantly situated on the river Black Cart, over which
is a bridge, from which it derived its former name. It
is indebted for its rise, and subsequent rapid increase,
to the introduction of the manufacture of cotton-yarn,
and to the encouragement given by its spirited pro-
prietor, Mr. Houston, who granted leases of land for
the erection of dwelling-houses, and for the numerous
spacious works which have been since opened. The
increase of the place both in population and manu-
facturing importance has been unrivalled in the history
of any other place in Scotland. In 1781, when the
lands were first leased, it contained only ten inhabitants :
in 1792, the number had augmented to 1434 ; in 1811,
to 3647 ; and in 1831, to 5617- The town is regularly
built, consisting of Houston-square, nearly in the
centre j a spacious market-place ; and numerous hand-
some streets intersecting each other at right angles.
The houses are of stone, and to each is attached an
adequate portion of garden ground ; the inhabitants
are amply supplied with water, and the streets are well
lighted with gas. Assembly-rooms have been erected ;
a lodge of freemasons has been instituted ; numerous
excellent shops furnish every thing requisite for the
supply of the inhabitants ; circulating libraries are kept
by the various booksellers ; a post-office with two daily
deliveries has been established ; and in almost every
respect the town may be said to be improving.
The population are chiefly employed in the cotton
trade, for which there are numerous mills in the town
and immediate vicinity. Two of these are propelled by
water, and the others by steam-power ; they contain in
the aggregate 90,000 spindles. The capital employed
in their erection, and in keeping them in operation, is
estimated at £135,000; and they afford constant occu-
pation to more than 2500 persons. An extensive factory,
also, has been erected for weaving cloth by machinery.
There are two iron and two brass foundries, and some
factories for the manufacture of machinery of all kinds,
in which steam-engines are used of the aggregate power
of 26 horses, and which afford employment to 120
persons. As many as three branch banks have been
established here. The village is well stocked with every
kind of provisions ; and fairs are annually held on the
Thursday after the second Monday in July, and the last
Thursday in December, for cattle. The Glasgow, Paisley,
and Ardrossan canal, which commences at Port-Eglin-
ton, near Glasgow, and passes Paisley, is completed only
to this place, a distance of eleven miles free of lockage ;
it is 28 feet broad at the top, 14 at the bottom, and 4§
feet in depth, and cost nearly £100,000. The navigation
was opened in 1811, and light iron passage-boats were
established in 1831 ; but, by a recent arrangement with
the Ayrshire and Greenock Railway Companies, the con-
veyance of passengers is to be discontinued for twenty-
one years, and the traffic confined to heavy goods, of which
68,063 tons were carried in the year ending 30th Sept.,
1844. The canal terminates in a basin at one extremity
of the town; and adjoining the wharf, is a yard for
landing the stone from the Nitshill quarry. The magis-
trates hold a petty-session in the assembly-rooms on
the first Friday in every month. A church was erected
JURA
JURA
here in 1793, at a cost of £1400 ; it contains 995 sittings,
and is a handsome octagonal edifice, with a very light
and elegant spire, built in imitation of the spire of
Lincoln designed by Sir Christopher Wren, but on a
smaller scale. It forms a strikingly interesting object as
seen from the road to Paisley, and gives to the town
a very pleasing appearance. The ecclesiastical affairs
are under the presbytery of Paisley and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr, and the patronage is vested in the Congregation ;
the stipend of the minister is £150, arising from seat-
rents and collections, and part of the amount is secured
by bond. There are places of worship for members of
the Free Church, the United Secession, Relief, and
United Methodists ; the first a fine building.
JOPPA, a village, in the parish of Coylton, district
of Kyle, county of Ayr, 3^ miles (S. E. by E.) from Ayr;
containing 16S inhabitants. It is situated on the road
from Ayr to Coylton, a short distance westward of the
Coyl water, and is regarded as the principal village in
the parish, the others being chiefly groups of cottages.
There is a Sabbath school here ; also a private school,
attended by about fifty children, and of which the teacher
has a rent-free schoolroom.
JOPPA, a village, in that part of the parish of Dud-
dingston, county of Edinburgh, which formed the
late quoad sacra parish of Portobello, | a mile (E. S. E.)
from Portobello ; containing 275 inhabitants. This is a
modern and neat village, situated on the sea-side, and
on the great road between Edinburgh and Musselburgh.
It may be said to form a suburb of the large and fashion-
able village of Portobello, which is visited, on account
of its excellent beach, and its proximity to Edinburgh,
as a bathing-place in the summer season. In the vicinity
are some handsome villas.
JUNIPER -GREEN, a village, in the parish of
Colinton, county of Edinburgh, If- mile (W. by S.)
from Colinton ; containing 325 inhabitants. It lies on
the high road from Currie to Edinburgh, and in the
western extremity of the parish. It is one of the five
principal villages of Colinton ; and has a small school.
JURA and COLONSAY, a parish, in the district of
Islay, county of Argyll ; containing 2299 inhabitants.
This parish, which is situated to the west of the main
land, comprises the islands of Jura, Colonsay, Oronsay,
Scarba,'Lunga, Balnahuaigh, and Garvelloch, and several
small uninhabited islets. The island of Jura, takes its
name from the numerous herds of red-deer with which
it abounded, and of which many are still preserved. It
is separated from the main land by the sound of Jura,
which forms its eastern boundary ; and from the isle
of Islay, by the sound of that name, which bounds it
on the south : on the west is the Atlantic Ocean. It is
about thirty-six miles in extreme length, and varies from
two to nearly eight miles in breadth ; the number of acres
has not been ascertained. The surface is rugged, and
broken by mountains of conical form, of which the
three principal, called the Paps of Jura, are, Beinn-a-
Chaolais, Beinn-an-Oir, and Beinn-Shianta. These
mountains, of which the highest, Beinn-an-Oir, has an
elevation of 2700 feet above the level of the sea, form
a conspicuous landmark for mariners ; they are seen
from a great distance, and are the first points discovered
by vessels navigating the Atlantic.
%, The coast is rocky and precipitous, and in many
places perforated with deep caverns, some of which
591
afford secure shelter. Of these, the most remarkable is
Uaglilainaidi, on the western coast, of which the entrance
is thirty-eight feet above the level of the sea at high tides,
and thirty-three feet in height. The interior has an area
of 1312 square yards ; the floor is smooth, and the roof
beautifully arched. So perfectly is this cavern protected,
that, during the severest storms, scarcely a breath of wind
is felt within it. There are numerous moorland lakes,
of which several abound with trout ; and from them issue
various streams, which, in their course towards the sea,
form considerable rivers, wherein trout and salmon are
found. Of these rivers, the largest are, the Knockbreck,
on which the proprietor, Mr. Campbell, has a salmon-
fishery, and the Avin Lussa, in the north of the island :
the river Corran has its source in some springs issuing
from the mountains, and, flowing eastward, receives
different tributaries in its course, and falls into the
sound of Jura near Corran House. The shore on the
west is deeply indented by Loch Tarbel, an inlet from
the sea, which almost divides the island into two parts ;
and on the eastern shore are several bays, of which
Lowland Day and the bay of Small Isles constitute
commodious harbours. The former, two miles and
a half in circumference, has an entrance 570 yards
in width, and is from five to six fathoms in depth ; the
latter, which is more capacious, is formed by three small
islands, ranging in a line nearly parallel with the coast,
and between which are the entrances.
The soil in the east of the island, in which direction
nearly the whole population resides, is stony and shal-
low along the shore, but on the acclivities, where most
of the arable land is situated, of better quality. The
crops are, oats, barley, potatoes, and a little flax ; the
system of agriculture has been improved ; much of
the land has been drained, and some tracts of moss
have been brought into cultivation. The farm-buildings
are commodious ; and the lands have been inclosed,
partly with stone dykes, and partly with hedges of
thorn. The cattle, of which about 1200 are annually
sold, are of the native black breed : the sheep, of which,
also, great numbers are reared in the pastures, are
generally the black-faced, with some of the Cheviots,
which are increasing in number. The prevailing rocks
are of the primitive formation, and the substrata chiefly
mica-slate, trap, and whinstone : slate was formerly
quarried. The rateable annual value of the parish is
£5761. The mansions are, Jura House, the seat of
the principal proprietor, a spacious residence, to which
splendid additions have been recently made ; and
Ardlussa, also a handsome mansion, beautifully situated,
and surrounded with plantations. The only village
is Miltown, which includes Craighouse ; the inhabitants
are chiefly employed in weaving, and in the various
handicraft trades requisite for the supply of the neigh-
bourhood. There is a neat inn at Craighouse, which
has been rebuilt and enlarged. A distillery has been
erected, which produces about 700 gallons of whisky
per week^j and there is likewise a good corn-mill, from
which the village takes its name. Facility of inter-
course is afforded by several roads and bridges, and by
three ferries, on which are staiths for the shipping of
cattle : the ferry at Kenuachdrach communicates with
Craignish ; that of Lagg with North Knapdale, and
the ferry of Feoline with Portaskaig. From Feoline
to Lagg, a distance of seventeen miles, a government road
J UK A
JURA
has been formed, which adds greatly to the means
of intercourse ; and at the latter place is a sub-office,
at which the London, Edinburgh, and Glasgow mails
are received from Islay.
The ecclesiastical affairs are under the super-
intendence of the presbytery of Islay and Jura, and
synod of Argyll. The minister's stipend is £200,
charged with the payment of £50 to an assistant at
Colonsay ; he has a manse, and a glebe valued at £12
per annum : patron, the Duke of Argyll. The church,
erected about the year 1/76, is a neat plain structure;
the interior has been enlarged and greatly improved
by Mr. Campbell, and contains 250 sittings, all of
which are free. In the old churchyard is an elegant
mausoleum for the Campbell family. There are two
schools in Jura, and one in Colonsay, among the three
masters of which the parochial salary of £34 is equally
divided, the deficiency being made good by Mr. Camp-
bell, who has ei'ected two commodious schoolrooms,
with good houses for the two masters, to each of whom
he gives a garden and a small portion of land. Two
other schools are supported by the Society for Pro-
pagating Christian Knowledge, of which one is at
Colonsay. The sick poor are admissible to the infirmary
and asylum of Glasgow, through the liberality of Mr.
Campbell. Stones of vast dimensions are found along
the shores, and in other places ; they are supposed to
have fallen from the erect position in which they were
originally raised in commemoration, it is said, of ancient
battles. There are also the ruins of many chapels of
early date. In digging the foundation for an inn at
Lagg, several stone coffins were found ; and in forming
the road from Feoline to Lagg, numerous urns, con-
taining ashes, were discovered. Silver coins of the
reign of Charles I., also, were found many years since. —
See Colonsay, &c.
END OF VOL. I.
592
Gilbert and Rivington, Printers, St. John Square, London.
INDEX
PLACES DESCRIBED IN THE WORK,
WHETHER
UNDER THEIR OWN HEADS, OR INCIDENTALLY:
EMBRACING THE
MOUNTAINS, HILLS, LAKES, RIVERS, HEADLANDS, SEATS, ANTIQUITIES, &c.
Vol. I.— 593 4 G
INDEX.
*** Those places which are described in the Work under their own heads, are denoted by Small Capitals.
ABBETHUNE, seat, St. Vigean's, ii. 587.
Abbey, district, in Arbroath, i. 58.
Abbey, Stirling. See Cambuskenneth, and
Logie.
Abbey Burn, Dundrennan, i. 321.
Abbey-Craig Hill, Logie, ii. 205, 206.
Abbey-Green, village, in Lesmahago, La-
nark, i. 1.
Abbey Mill of Blacklaw, Bendochy, i. 117.
Abbey Parish, Renfrew. See Paisley.
Abbey Park, Paisley, ii. 338.
Abbey St. Bathan's, Berwick. See Ba-
than's, St.
Abbeytown, bridge, in Airth, Stirling, i. 35.
Abbotrule, lands, Roxburgh, i. 543. ii. 476.
Abbotsford, seat, Melrose, ii. 246.
Abbotshall, parish, Fife, i. 1.
Abbotshaugh, Grangemouth, i. 518.
Abbot's Isle, Ardchattan, ii. 288.
Abbot's Yard, Kirkoswald, ii. 120.
Abb's Head, St., Berwickshire, i. 91, 208.
Abden, mansion, Kinghorn, ii. 76.
Abbie, parish, Fife, i. 2.
Aberarder, house, Daviot, i. 274.
Aberbrothock, Forfarshire. See Arbroath.
Abercairney, lands, Fowlis Wester, i. 453,
454.
Aberchalder, Wester, i. 273.
Aberchirder, village, in Marnock, Banff, i.
3. ii. 232.
Abercorn, parish, Linlithgow, i. 3.
Abercrombie, parish, Fife, i. 5.
Aberdalgie and Dupplin, parish, Perth,
i. 5.
Aberdargie, village, in Abernethy, Perth,
i. 6, 30.
ABERDEEN, city, history of, i. 6 ; descrip-
tion of, 10 ; libraries and public institu-
tions, 11 ; manufactures, 12 ; trade and
harbour, 13 ; markets, 14 ; local govern-
ment, 15; Marischal College, 16; pa-
rishes, 17 ; schools and charities, 17 ;
eminent natives, 19. — Bell's bequest, 47.
ABERDEEN, OLD, city, history of, i. 19 ;
description, 19 ; King's College, 20 ; pa-
rish, church, schools, &c. 21.
Aberdeen Canal described, i. 14.
ABERDEENSHIRE, county, i. 21.
Aberdona, Clackmannan, i. 199.
Aberbour, parish, Aberdeen, i. 22.
Aberdour, parish, Fife, i. 23.
595
Aberdour, New, village, in Aberdour, i. 22,
23.
Aberfeldy, village, Perth, i. 24, 301.
Aberpoyle, parish, Perth, i. 24.
Abergeldie, house, in Crathie, i. 229.
Aberiachan, burn, Urquhart, ii. 582.
Aberkerber, Banff. See Aberchirder.
Aberlady, parish, Haddington, i. 25.
Aberlemno, parish, Forfar, i. 26.
Aberlour, parish, Banff, i. 27-
Aberluthnott, Marykirk, ii. 235.
Aber-Milk, St. Mungo, ii. 293.
Abernethy, parish, Fife and Perth, i. 28.
Abernethy, parish, Inverness and Elgin,
i. 28.
Abernyte, parish, Perth, i. 30.
Abertarpf. See Boleskine and Abertarff.
Aberuchill, mansion, Comrie, i. 216.
Aberuthven, ancient parish, Perth, i. 77-
Abington, village, in Crawfordjohn, Lanark,
i. 31, 231.
Aboon the Brae, spring, Neilston, ii. 300.
Aboyne and Glentanner, parish, Aberdeen,
i. 31.
Aboyne Castle, Aberdeenshire, i. 32.
Achadashenag House, Kilninian and Kil-
more, ii. 55.
Achalick, bay, Kilfinan, ii. 31.
Achall, loch, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Achallader, castle, Glenorchy, i. 509.
Achantiobairt, in Iuverary, i. 567.
Acharacle. See Aharacle.
Acharn, hamlet, in Kenmore, Perth, i. 32,
ii. 12.
Achenreoch, lake, Urr, ii. 585.
Achilty, Loch, Coutin, i. 216.
Achincass, castle, Kirkpatrick-Juxta, Dum-
friesshire, ii. 125.
Achindarroch, mansion, South Knapdale,
Argyllshire, ii. 1 34.
Achinduin, castle, Lismore and Appin,
Argyllshire, ii. 190.
Achingahan, lands, Luss. ii. 222.
Achnaba, mansion, Lochgilphead, ii. 195.
Achnacarry, seat, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Achnacloich, loch, Rosskeen, ii. 431.
Achnacone, mansion, Lismore and Appin,
ii. 190.
Achnacroish, Lismore and Appin, ii. 189.
Achnacroish, house, Torosay, ii. 552.
Achness, in Farr, i. 418.
Achnuallan, in Arderseir, Inverness, i. 64.
Achoish, South Knapdale, ii. 135.
Achrannie, Slug of, cascade, Lintrathen, ii.
187.
Achray, lake, Perthshire, ii. 366.
Achronie, hill, Kinnellar, ii. 85.
Ackergill, hamlet, in Wick, Caithness, i.
32, ii. 611.
Ad, river, Kilmichael-Glassary, ii. 47-
Adamhill, in Tarbolton, ii. 531.
Adam's Castle, Kinneff, ii. 84.
Adamsrow, village, in Newton, Edinburgh,
i. 32.
Adamstown, moor, in Auchterhouse, i. 80.
Adamtown, seat, Monkton and Prestwick,
ii. 271.
Adder Law, hill, Applegarth, i. 55.
Aden, estate, Old Deer, i. 276.
Admiston, East and West, houses, Glads-
muir, i. 476.
Advie, old parish, Inverness, i. 239.
Ae, Water of, Kirkmichael, ii. 117 ; Loch-
maben, 198 ; Tinwald, 543.
Aen, river, Strachan, ii. 504.
Affleck Castle, Monikie, ii. 265.
Affric, loch, Kilmorack, ii. 49 ; Kiltarlity , 63.
Afton, stream, tributary to the Nith, i. 32,
253.
Afton-Bribgend, in New Cumnock, Ayr, i.
32.
Afton Lodge, Tarbolton, ii. 530.
Agabatha, fort, Collessie, i. 213.
Aharacle, late a quoad sacra parish, Ard-
namurchan, i. 32.
Aich, mountain, Luss, ii. 222.
Aigas, house, Kiltarlity, ii. 64.
Aigash, isle, in Kiltarlity, Inverness, i. 32.
Aikenhead, house, Cathcart, i. 192.
Aikenway, estate, Rothes, ii. 432.
Aiket Castle, in Dunlop, i. 333.
Aikey Brae, near Old Deer, i. 275, 276.
Aikrigill, Wick, county Caithness, i. 32.
Ailsa, isle, belonging to Dailly, Ayr, i. 32.
Ainart, Loch, Ardnamurchan, Argyll, i. 65.
Aird, hamlet, in Inch, Wigton, i. 33.
Airdit, hill, Leuchars, ii. 174.
Airdlamont, Kilfinan, ii. 31, 32.
Aird-Linn, in Tynron, i. 570.
Airdmeanaeh, in Kilfinichen and Kilviceu-
en, ii. 32, 33.
Airdniskich, headland, Farr, i. 418.
Aird Point, Inverness-shire, i. 39.
Airdrie, house, Crail, i. 226.
AIRDRIE, town, in New Monkland, La-
nark, i. 33.
4 G2
INDEX.
Airdrie House, New Monkland, ii. 268.
Airds Bay, Lismore and Appin, ii. 189 ;
House, ii. 190.
Aird's Bay, Ardchattan, ii. 288.
Aird's Moss, Auchinleck, i. 75.
Airi-Innis, lake, Morvern, ii. 283.
Airlie, parish, Forfar, i. 33.
Airlie Castle, in Airlie parish, i. 34.
Airlywight House, Auchtergaven, i. 79.
Airntullv, village, in Kinclaven, Perth, i.
34.
Airs of Selivoe, in Sandsthig and Aithsting,
county of Shetland, ii. 450.
Airth, parish, Stirling, i. 34.
Airth Castle, in Airth parish, i. 34, 35.
Airthrey, mineral spring, near Bridge of
Allan, i. 36.
Airthrey Castle, Logie, ii. 205.
Aite Suidlie Fhin, eminence, Portree, ii. 389.
Aith, hay, in Fetlar, i. 423, 424.
Aithsness, in Fetlar, Shetland, i. 424.
Aithsting, Shetland. See Saiidstiiig mid
Aitlisting.
Aith's Voe, in Sandsting and Aithsting, ii.
450.
Aitnach Craig, in Dairy, i. 267.
Alauna, Lecropt, ii. 1 59.
Albie Thorn, in Applegarth, Dumfries, i. 55.
Albin, Glen of, Inverness, i. 576.
Albion, Glasgow, late quoad sacra parish, i.
496.
Alcaig, Urquhart and Logie Wester, ii. 584.
Alcluyd, Dumbartonshire, i. 302.
Aldernie, stream, Boharm, i. 138.
Alderston, house, Haddington, i. 528.
Aldhame, ancient parish, Haddington, ii.
604.
Aldhouse, village, in East Kilbride, La-
nark, i. 35, ii. 23.
Aldie, barony, Fossoway, i. 451.
Aldinny, stream, Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Aldmore Hills, Banff, i. 403.
Aldowrie, mansion, Dores, i. 285.
Ale, river, Roxburghshire ; Ancrum, i. 44';
Ashkirk, 72 ; Bowden, 149 ; Lilliesleaf,
ii. 180.
Ale, river, Ayton, i. 90 ; Eyemouth, 410.
Alemoor, lake, Roberton, i. 422.
Alexandria, late a quoad sacra parish,
Dumbarton, i. 35, 141.
Alford, district, Aberdeenshire, i. 21.
Alford, parish, Aberdeen, i. 35.
Aline, loch, Morvern, ii. 283.
Allachic, district, Aberlour, Banff, i. 27.
Allachoy, burn, Aberlour, i. 27.
Allan, bay, Sorbie, ii. 473.
Allan, river, Blackford, i. 131 ; Dunblane,
314 ; Lecropt, ii. 160.
Allan, river, Melrose, ii. 246.
Allan, Bridge of, village, Stirling, i. 36.
Allanbank, house, Edrom, i. 395.
Allanbank, minsion, Lauder, ii. 156.
Allander, river, Baldemock, i. 92 ; New
Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
Allangiange, Knockbain, ii. 137.
Allans, isles, Bute, ii. 255.
Allanton, estate, in Cambusnethan, county of
Lanark, i. 171, ii. 489.
Allanton, estate, Dunscore, i. 339.
Allanton, village, in Edrom, Berwick, i. 36.
Allardyce, Castle of, in Arbuthnott, i. 60,
120.
Allcrmuir, hill, Lasswade, ii. 153.
596
ALLOA, town, Clackmannan, i. 36.
Allt-da-ghob, stream, Fortingal, i. 448.
Almagill Hills, Dalton, i. 271.
Almond, district, Muiravonside, ii. 289.
Almond, river, Linlithgowshire, i. 391, ii.
184 ; Calder,i. 166,167 5 Cramond, 226 ;
Dalmeny, 265 ; Kirkliston, ii. 110; Li-
vingstone, 191.
Almond, river, Perthshire, ii. 365 ; Fowlis
Wester, i. 453, 454 ; Methven, ii. 251 ;
Monzie, 276.
Almondbank, village, in Methven parish,
Perth, i. 38.
' Alness, parish, county of Ross and Cro-
marty, i. 39, 154.
Alsh, loch, Lochalsh, ii. 192.
Altar Stone, in Old Deer, i. 277-
Altars of Lina, rocks, North Ronaldshay,
Orkney, ii. 424.
Alt-Chaorach, stream, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Altirlie, headland, Pettie, ii. 371.
Altivaig, in Kilmuir, Inverness, i. 39, ii.
53.
Alt-Ketlan, stream, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Altnarie, burn, Ardclaeh, i. 63.
Alt-Patrick, burn, ii. 342.
Altyre, parish, Rafford, ii. 399, 400.
Alva, parish, Stirling, i. 39.
Alvah, parish, Banff, i. 40.
Alves, parish, Elgin, i. 41, ii. 82.
Alvie, parish, Inverness, i. 42.
Altth, parish, Perth and Forfar, i. 42.
Amat Cottage, Kincardine, ii. 68.
Amherst Bay, Latheron, ii. 223.
Amisfield, seat, Haddington, i. 528.
Amisfield, village, Tinwald, Dumfriesshire,
i. 43, ii. 542, 543.
Amondell House, Uphall, ii. 580.
Amulrie, village, in Dull, Perth, i. 43, 301,
302.
Ana, tract, Melrose, ii. 312.
Anabich, island, in Harris, Inverness, i. 44.
Ancrum, New, estate, in Temple, ii. 534.
Ancrum-Muir, Maxton, ii. 239.
Ancrum, parish, Roxburgh, i. 44,
Ander Hill, Bressay, i. 153.
Anderston, burgh, Lanark, i. 44.
Andow, loch, Ardchattan, hi. 288.
ANDREW'S, ST., city, Fife ; history, i. 45 ;
description, 46 ; University, 46 ; Madras
College, 47 ; trade, 47 ; burgh govern-
ment, 48 ; rural district, 48 ; ecclesiastical
affairs, 48 ; antiquities, 49. — See also i.
171, ii. 167.
Andrew's, St., hill, Bressay, i. 153.
Andrew's, St., old parish, Aberdeen, i. 229.
Andrew's, St., parish, Orkney, i. 49.
Andrew's Lhanbryde, St., parish, Elgin, i.
50.
Andunty, loch, Pettie, ii. 371.
Angry Burn, Dallas, i. 263.
Angus. See Forfarshire.
ANNAN, parish, Dumfries, i. 50.
Annan, river, Annan parish, i. 51, 52 ;
Applegarth, 55 ; Brydekirk, 156 ; Hod-
dam, 544 ; Johnstone, 589 ; Kirkpatrick-
Juxta, ii. 125.
Annandale, Dumfriesshire, i. 308.
Annat, river, Kilmadock, ii. 38.
Annaty, stream, Scone, ii. 456.
Ann's, St., Lasswade, ii. 154.
Anne's, St., Yards, Edinburgh, i. 375.
Anniston, house, Inverkeillor, i. 571.
Aunock, river, Dreghorn, i. 291 ; Stewar-
ton, ii. 488.
Annock Lodge, Dreghorn, i. 291.
Anstruther Easter, parish, Fife, i. 52.
Anstrutheb Wester, parish, Fife, i. 53.
Antermony, house, Campsie, i. 175.
Anthony's, St., Well, Edinburgh, i. 375.
Antonshill, house, Eccles, i. 355.
Anwoth, parish, Kirkcudbright, i. 54.
Aonaeh-Sassan, hill, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
App, stream, Ballantrae, i. 94.
Appin, county Argyll. See Lismore.
Appin, district, Dull, Perthshire, i. 301, 302.
Applecross, parish, Ross and Cromarty, i.
54.
Applegarth and Sibbaldbie, parish, Dum-
fries, i. 55.
Appletree-Hall, village, in Hawick, Rox-
burgh, i. 56.
Aquaharney, estate, Cruden, i. 244.
Aquhorties, in Inverury, i. 581.
Arasaig, district, Argyll, i. 64, 65, 66.
Aray, river, Inverary, i. 565.
Arbeadie, village, Banchory- Ternan, i. 56.
Arbigland House, Kirkbean, ii. 95.
Arbikie, mound, Lunan parish, ii. 220.
Arbirlot, parish, Forfar, i. 56.
ARBROATH, sea-port and parish, Forfar,
i. 56.
Arbroath and Forfar railway, i. 57.
Arbuthnott, parish, Kincardine, i. 59.
Archerfield, house, Dirleton, i. 282.
Archers Croft, Blantyre, i. 136.
Archiestown, village, Elgin, i. 60, ii. 136.
Ard, Loch, Aberfoyle, Perth, i. 25.
Ardargie, station, Dunning, i. 335.
Ardblair, mansion, Blairgowrie, i. 134.
Ardchaduill, promontory, Lochbroom, ii.
192.
Ardchattan, parish, Argyll, i. 60.
Ardclach, parish, Nairn, i. 62, 82.
Ardeer, grounds, Stevenstou, ii. 487.
Ardelisters, isles, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Arden, in Eastwood, i. 354.
Arden, house, Bonhill, i. 141.
Arden, village, Lanark, i. 63.
Ardenconnel, mansion, Row parish, ii. 438.
Ardendraught, bay, Cruden, i. 243.
Ardentinny, Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 337.
Ardeonaig, Kenmore, ii. 12.
Arderseir, parish, Inverness, i. 63.
Ardgartain House, Lochgoilhead, ii. 196.
Ardgowan House, Innerkip, i. 561.
Ardineaple, Kilbrandon and Kilchattan, ii.
20.
Ardineaple Castle, Row parish, ii. 438.
Ardinning, Loch, Strathblaue, ii. 511.
Ardinslat, Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 337.
Ardintoul, bay, Glenshiel, i. 510.
Ardintrive, harbour, Kerera isle, ii. 14.
Ard-Ivachar, in South Uist, ii. 576.
Ardkinglass Lodge, Lochgoilhead, ii. 196.
Ardlair, farm, Stracban, ii. 505.
Ardle, river, Bendochy,i. 117 5 Blairgowrie,
134 ; Moulin, ii. 284 ; Rattray, 406.
Ardleish, farm, in Arrochar, i. 71-
Ardlussa, house, Jura, i. 591 .
Ardmaddy, bay, Kilbrandon and Kilchat-
tan, ii. 19,20.
Ardmarnock House, Kilfinau, ii. 32.
Ardineanach, district, Ross and Cromarty,
ii. 430.
Ardmellie, estate, Marnoch, ii. 232.
INDEX.
Ard-Michael, headland, South Uist, ii. 576.
Ardmillan, in Girvan, i. 475.
Ardminish, in Gigha and Cara, i. 471.
Ardmore, in Waternish, i. 299.
Ardraore, bay, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Ardmore, promontory, Cardross, i. 1 78.
Ardmore House, Edderton, i. 359.
Ardmueknish, bay, Ardchattan, i. 62.
Ardnacallich, promontory, Kilninian, ii.
577.
Ardnafuaran, in Ardnamurchan, i. 66.
Ardnamurchan, parish, Argyll and Inver-
ness, i. 64.
Ardneil, West Kilbride, ii. 24.
Ardoch, late quoad sacra parish, Perth, i.
66, ii. 297.
Ardoch, farm, Kilmarnock, ii. 44.
Ardoch, lands, Cardross, i. 178.
Ardoch, river, Kilmadock, ii. 38.
Ardonald, in Cairnie, i. 165.
Ardpatrick, in Kilcalmonell and Kilberry,
ii. 25, 26.
Ardrissaig, village, Argyll, i. 67, ii. 135,
195.
Ardross, district, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
430.
Ardross, lands, Rosskeen, ii. 431.
ARDROSSAN, parish, Ayr, i. 67-
Ardsheal, Duror, Argyll, i. 343.
Ardstinchar, castle, Ballantrae, i. 94.
Ardtealla, bay, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Ardtallanaig, Kenmore, ii. 13.
Ardtoe, bay at, in Ardnamurchan, Argyll,
i. 64.
Ardtornish, estate, Morvern, ii. 283, 284.
Ardveirge, Laggan, ii. 140.
Ardvorlich, in Comrie, i. 216.
Ardvrack, castle, Assynt, i. 73.
Ard-Vula, headland, South Uist, ii. 576.
Ardwall, house, Anwoth, Kirkcudbright, i.
54.
Ardwell, Stoneykirk, ii. 501.
Argaty, mansion, Kilmadock, ii. 39.
Argrennan, seat, Tongland, ii. 547.
Argyll House, Stirling, ii. 492.
ARGYLLSHIRE, i. 68.
Arichonan, hill, North Knapdale, ii. 133.
Arinangour, village, Argyll, i. 70.
Arisaig. See Arasaig.
Arity, stream, Inverarity, i. 565.
Arkaig, loch, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Arkendeith, Tower of, Avoch, i. 84.
Arkinholrne, Kirkurd, ii. 127.
Arkle, mountain, Eddrachillis, i. 360.
Arklestone, near Glasgow, i. 489.
Armadale, village, Linlithgow, i. 70.
Armadale Castle, Sleat parish, Skye, ii. 470.
Armidale, valley, Farr, i. 418, 419.
Armiddle, hill, Turriff, ii. 566, 567.
Arnage, house, Ellen, i. 402.
Amal, river, in Lewis, i. 109.
Arnat, river, Moulin, ii. 284.
Arndean, house, Fossoway, i. 451.
Arndilly, estate, Boharm, i. 137, 138.
Arnfinlay, castle, Kippen, ii. 95.
Arngask, parisli, Fife, Kinross, and Perth,
i. 70.
Arnhall, in Fettercairn, i. 425.
Arnisdale, village, Glenelg, i. 505, 506.
Arnish Point, Stornoway, Lewis, ii. 502.
Arniston, House of, Borthwick, i. 145.
Arnold's, St., seat, in Tannadice, ii. 528.
Arnprior, hamlet, Perth, i. 71, ii. 94.
597
Arntully. See Airntully.
Arnyfoul, hamlet, Forfar, i. 71.
Aros, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii. 54, 292,
446.
Aross, bay, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Arradoul, Ruthven, ii. 405.
Arran, isle, i. 163.
Arran, isle, Buteshire, i. 71.
Arran House, Kilbride, ii. 21.
Arrochar, parish, Dumbarton, i. 71.
Artendol, old parish, Boharm, i. 137.
Arthur's Oven, Larbert, ii. 149.
Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh, i. 371, 372, 375.
Arthurlee, Cross, village, Renfrew, i. 72.'
Arthurlee, West, village, Renfrew, i. 72.
Arthurstone, lands, Cupar-Angus, i. 256,
257.
Ascog, bay, Kingarth, ii. 74.
Ashare, district, Eddrachillis, i. 360, 361.
Ashburn, seat, Renfrewshire, ii. 415.
Ashdale, Kilbride, ii. 2).
Ashgrove, lake, Kilwinning, ii. 66 ; house, 67.
Ashiesteel, seat, Yarrow, ii. 618, 619.
Ashig, in Strath, ii. 510.
Ashintully, mansion, Kirkmiehael, ii. 118.
Ashi's Hill, Dores, i. 285.
Ashkirk, parish, Selkirk and Roxburgh, i.
72.
Ashley, estate, Ratho, ii. 403.
Asleed, stream, Monquhitter, ii. 271.
Assel, stream, Girvan, i. 475.
Assynt, parish, Sutherland, i. 72.
Asta, loch, Tingwall, ii. 542.
Athelstaneford, parish, Haddington, i. 73.
Atholl, district, Moulin, ii. 284.
Auchaber, house, Forgue, i. 444.
Auchalton, Kirkmiehael, ii. 1 15.
Auchan House, Duudonald, i. 320.
Auchandryne, village, Aberdeen, i. 74.
Auchenbowie, St. Ninian's, ii. 320, 321.
Auchencruive, mansion, St. Quivox, ii. 399.
Auchendavie, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Auchengeith, hill, Kirkmahoe, ii. 112.
Auchenharvie, castle, Stewarton, ii. 489.
Auchenlodmont, Paisley, ii. 342.
Auchenreoch, house, Strickathrow, ii. 517.
Auchenskeoch, in Colvend, i. 215.
Auchernach, house, Strathdon, ii. 513.
Auehinbathie Castle, Lochwinnoch, ii. 203.
Auchinblae, village, Kincardine, i. 74, 437.
Auchincairn, village, Kirkcudbright, i. 74.
Auchixcraw, village, Berwick, i. 74.
Auchindennan, lands, Luss, ii. 222.
Auchindoir and Kearn, parish, Aberdeen,
i. 74.
Auchindown, castle, Mortlach, ii. 281.
Auchindown's Cairn, Inveraven, i. 567.
Auchinduich, farm, Crieeh, i. 234.
Auchinearn, Old and New, villages, La-
nark, i. 75, 164.
Auchingray, near Clarkston, i. 200, ii. 268.
Auchinhalrig, in Enzie, i. 403.
Auchinheath, Lesmahago, ii. 171.
Auchinhove, seat, Lumphanan, ii. 219.
Auchinlaich, lands, Callander, i. 168.
Auchinleck, parish, Ayr, i. 75.
Auchinlilly-lin-Spout, in Benny, i. 279.
Auchinloch, hamlet, Lanark, i. 76, 164.
Auchinmully, village, Stirling, i. 76, 106.
Auchinraith, hamlet, Lanark, i. 76.
Auchinreoch, house, Campsie, i. 175.
Auehinroath, house, Rothes, ii. 432.
Auchintiber, hamlet, Lanark, i. 76.
Auchintorlie, seat, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59.
Auchintoslian, seat, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59.
Auchintoul, mansion, Marnoch, ii. 233.
Auchiries House, Rathen, ii. 402.
Auchlane, burn, Kelton, ii. 9.
Auchleeks, house, Blair-Atholl, i. 133.
Auchlevan, in Ardchattan, ii. 288.
Auchleven, village, Aberdeen, i. 76, ii. 392.
Auchlishie, Kirriemuir, ii. 132.
Auehlunies, mansion, Maryculter, ii. 234.
Auchlunkart, house, Boharm, i. 138.
Auchlyne House, Killin, ii. 37.
Auchmacoy, estate, Logie-Buehan, ii. 206.
Auchmannoch, seat, Sorn, ii. 475.
Auchmedden, estate, in Aberdour, Aber-
deen, i. 22, 23.
Auchmillan, hamlet, Ayrshire, i. 76.
Auchmithie, village, Forfar, i. 76, ii. 587.
Auchmore, district, Weem, ii. 595, 596.
Auchmuir Bridge, in Ballingry, i. 95.
Auchmuty, Markinch, ii. 231.
Auchxacraig, village, Argyll, i. 77, ii- 552.
Auchnacree, estate, Fearn, Forfar, i. 420.
Auchnagairn, mansion, Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Auchnamara, stream, North Knapdale, ii.
133.
Auchness, burn, Dallas, i. 263.
Auchrannie, Slug of, Glenisla, i. 506.
Auehray, Loch, Aberfoyle, Pei-th, i. 25.
Auchreddy, old parish, Aberdeen, i. 275.
Auchry, mansion, Monquhitter, ii. 272.
Auehter, Water of, Cambusnethan, i. 170.
Adchterarder, parish, Perth, i. 77-
Auchterderran, parish, Fife, i. 78.
Auchtergaven, parish, Perth, i. 78.
Auchterhouse, parish, Forfar, i. 79.
Auchterless, parish, Aberdeen, i. 80.
Auchtermairnie, seat, Kennoway, ii. 13.
AUCHTERMUCHTY, parisli, Fife, i. 80—
i. 30.
AucuTERNUD,hamlet, Ross and Cromarty,.i.
81.
Auchtertool, parish, Fife, i. 81, ii. 76.
Auchtertyre, farm, Newtyle, ii. 316.
Auchtigall, Peterhead, ii. 369.
Auchtrematane, burn, Portpatrick, ii. 388.
Auckingill, township, Caithness, i. 82.
Auld, river, Kirkpatrick-Irongray, ii. 124.
Auldbar House, in Aberlemno, i. 27.
Auldcathie, old parish, Linlithgowshire, i.
265, 266, ii. 110.
Auldearn, parish, Nairn, i. 82, 194.
Auldfield, Renfrewshire, i. 83.
Auld Grey Cairns, Inch, i. 556.
Auldhouse, burn, Eastwood, i. 354.
Auldtown, hamlet, Loudoun, ii. 217-
Auld Wick, in Wick, Caithness, ii. 610.
Auld Wives' Lifts, in Baldernock, i. 92.
Aulmore, hill, Grange, i. 518.
Ault-an-fhiler, stream, Pettie, ii. 371.
Aultgraad, or Aultgrande, stream, Alness,
i. 39 ; Kiltearn, ii. 64.
Aultguish, burn, Urquhart, ii. 582.
Aultnaharrow, in Farr, i. 419.
Aultsigh, stream, Urquhart, ii. 582, 583.
Auskerry, isle, Orkney, i. 83, ii. 519.
Aven, Sanda isle, Cantyre, Argyll, ii. 476.
Aven, river, Birse, Aberdeenshire, i. 130.
Aven, river, Linlithgowshire. See Awn.
Aven, river, Banffshire ; Inveraven, i. 567 ;
river and loch, Kirkmiehael, ii. 116.
Avich, loch, Kilchrenan and Dalavich, ii. 27.
Avin Lussa, stream, Jura, i. 591.
INDEX.
Avoch, parish, Ross and Cromarty, i. 83.
Avochy House, Huutly, i. 552.
Avon, river, Lanarkshire ; Avondale, i. 84 ;
Dalserf, 269 ; Hamilton, 534 ; Stone-
house, ii. 500.
Avon, river, Linlithgowshire, ii. 183, 184 ;
Borrowstounness, i. 144; Slamannan, ii.
469.
Avona Portieosa, Southend, ii. 476.
Avondale, parish, Lanark, i. 84.
Avonholm, lands, Glassford, i. 500.
Awe, loch, Argyllshire ; Ardchattan, i. 60,
61,69; Glenorchy, 509 ; Kilchrenan and
Dalavich, ii. 27 ; Kilmartin, 44.
Awe, river, Ardchattan, i. 61 ; Glenorchy,
509 ; Muckairn, ii. 288.
AYR, situation, &c, i. 85 ; trade and
manufactures, 86 ; local government, 86 ;
parish, 87 ; ecclesiastical affairs, 87 ;
eminent men, 88.
Ayr, river, Auchinleck, i. 75 ; Mauchline,
ii. 237 i Muirkirk, 291 ; Tarbolton, 530.
Ayr and Glasgow railway, i. 489.
AYRSHIRE, i. 88.
Ayton, parish, Berwick, i. 89.
Ayton House, in Abernethy, Perth, i. 29.
B
Ba, stream and loch, Torosay, ii. 551.
Baberton, seat, Currie, i. 258.
Bachd, isle, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii. 54.
Bachies, village, Sutherland, i. 91.
Back, in Stornoway parish, Lewis, ii. 503.
Backdean, hamlet, Newton, i. 91.
Backmuir, hamlet, Forfar, i. 91.
Back Part, vale, Monzie, ii. 276.
Back Sands, Marytown, ii. 236.
Badan, Loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Badcall, harbour, Eddrachillis, i. 360, 361.
Badenoch, district, Inverness-shire, i. 42,
ii. 80.
Baidland, hill, Dairy, i. 267.
Baikie, in Airlie, Forfar, i. 34.
Baillieston, village, Lanark, i. 91.
Baillieston Toll, Old Monkland, i. 106.
Bainsford, village, Stirling, i. 91.
Balancleroeh, house, Campsie, i. 175.
Balantrodach, chapelry, Temple, ii. 535.
Balas, house, Cupar, i. 256.
Balbardie House, Bathgate, i. Ill, 112.
Balbeggie, village, Perth, i. 91, ii. 88.
Balbegno Castle, Fettercairn, i. 425.
Balbirne, hamlet, Forfar, i. 91.
Balbirnie, lands, Markinch, ii. 231, 232.
Balbirnie- Bridge, Markinch, ii. 231.
Balblair, hamlet, Kirkmichael and Culli-
cudden, ii. 119.
Balblair, house, Edderton, i. 359.
Balblair, isle, Ross and Cromarty, i. 91.
Balbrogie, hamlet, Perth, i. 91.
Baleunno, village, Perthshire, i. 91.
Baleaithly, lands, Dunino, i. 326.
Balcarres, near Colinsburgh, i. 210, ii. 28,
29.
Balcarry, bay, Rerwick,i. 74, ii. 416 ; House,
ii. 416.
Balcaskie House, Carnbee, i. 183.
Balcastle, Kilsyth, ii. 63.
Balclirystie, lands, Newburn, ii. 309.
Balchullisii. See BallichiUish.
Balckerabeck, farm, Tealing, ii. 534.
598
Balcomie, house, Crail, i. 226.
Balconey, seat, Ross and Cromarty, Li. 430.
Balcurvie, village, Fife, i. 92.
Baldernock, parish, Stirling, i. 92, 174.
Baldoon, castle, Kirkinner, ii. 107.
Baldorney, seat, Banffshire, i. 105.
Baldovan, hamlet, Forfar, i. 92 ; House,
ii. 229.
Baldovie, mansion, Kingoldmm, ii. 78.
Baldowrie, Kettins, ii. 14.
Baldridge, burn, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Baledgarno, village, Perth, i. 92, 560.
Baledmund, mansion, Moulin, ii. 284.
Balerno, village, Edinburgh, i. 92, 257.
Balfield, hamlet, Forfar, i. 92.
Balfour, castle, Markinch, ii. 231.
Balfour Castle, Kingoldrum, ii. 79.
Balfron, parish, Stirling, i. 92.
Balgarvie, seat, Monimail, ii. 265.
Balgavies, in Aberlemno, Forfar, i. 26, 27.
Balgay, lands, near Dundee, i. 318, ii. 178.
Balgersho, lands, Cupar- Angus, i. 256.
Balgie, in Applecross, Ross and Cromarty,
i. 55.
Balgonar, seat, Saline, ii. 447.
Balgone, estate, North Berwick, i. 123.
Balgonie, Fifeshire. See Coaltown ; Milton
of Balgonie ; and Markinch.
Baigovie, in Craig, i. 222, 223.
Balgowan, seat, Methven, ii. 251.
Balgown, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Balgownie, Brig of, Old Aberdeen, i. 19.
Balgray, in Govan, i. 515.
Balgray, hamlet, Forfar, i. 93.
Balgreggan, Kirkmichael, ii. 1 15.
Balgreggan, seat, Stoneykirk, ii. 501.
Balgrie, Kennoway, ii. 13.
Baliiaddie, hamlet, Perth, i. 93.
Balhary, mansion, Alyth, Perth, i. 43.
Balhousie, Largo, ii. 151.
Balhousie, mansion, Perth, ii. 360.
Baligil, burn, Fair, i. 418.
Balinaby, residence, Kilehoman, ii. 27.
Balinloan, farm, Little Dunkeld, i. 332.
Balintore, Kirriemuir, ii. 131.
Bai.intore, village, Ross and Cromarty, i.
93, 420.
Balintraid, Kilmuir Easter, ii. 54.
Balishear, isle, Inverness-shire, i. 93.
Balkail, mansion, Old Luce, ii, 219.
Balkello, hamlet, Forfar, i. 93.
Ballagan, Strathblane, ii. 511.
Ballandarg, burn, Glammis, i. 477-
Ballandarg, seat, Kirriemuir, ii. 132.
Ballantrae, parish, Ayrshire, i. 93.
Ballater, village, Aberdeen, i. 94, 508.
Balleid House, Lethendy and Kinloch, ii.
173.
Ballenbreich, castle, Flisk, i. 433.
Ballencrieff, seat, in Aberlady, Haddington,
i. 26.
Ballendean, hamlet, Perth, i. 94.
Ballendrick, house, Dunbarny, i. 313.
Ballengeich, Stirling, ii. 491.
Ballenluig, village, Perth, i. 94.
Ballewan, farm, Strathblane, ii. 511.
Balliasta, in Unst, Shetland, ii. 579.
Ballichulish, district, Argyll and Inver-
ness, i. 95, ii. 189.
Ballikinrain, Killearn, ii. 35.
Ballimore, mansion, Strachur, ii. 505.
Ballimore House, Kilfinan, ii. 32.
Ballindalloch, Balfron, i. 93.
Ballindalloch House, Inveraven, i. 567.
Ballindoch, estate, Perthshire, i. 43.
Ballindown, mansion, Kiltarlity, ii. 64.
Ballingear, house, Kells, ii. 6.
Ballingry, parish, Fife, i. 95.
Ballintomb, moor, in Knockando, Elgin, i.
60.
Ballo, hill, Longforgan, ii. 210.
Balloan, in Tarbat, ii. 529.
Balloch, castle, Bonhill, i. 141.
Balloch, castle, Kenmore, ii. 12.
Balloch, farm, Kirriemuir, ii. 132.
Balloch, lake, Muthill, ii. 297.
Balloch, village, Inverness, i. 95.
Balloch, Mickle and Little, hills, i. 518.
Ballochleam, rock, Kippen, ii. 94.
Ballochmorie, seat, Colmonell, i. 213.
Ballochmyle, mansion, Mauchline, ii. 237.
Ballochney, village, Lanark, i. 95.
Ballochtoul, Girvan, i. 474, 475.
Ballogie, mansion, Birse, i. 130.
Ballomill, rivulet, Cults, i. 249.
Ballownie, farm, Strickathrow, ii. 517.
Ballumbie, mansion, Murroes, ii. 294.
Ballygrant, Kilarrow and Kilmeny, ii. 16.
Ballykellet, barony, Cumbray, i. 250.
Ballyshear, mansion, Southend, ii. 477.
Balmacaan, house, Urquhart, ii. 583.
Balmachree, farm, Pettie, ii. 372.
Balmaclellan, parish, Kirkcudbright, i. 95.
Balmadies, mansion, Rescobie, ii. 417, 418.
Balmae, residence, Kirkcudbright, ii. 102.
Balmaghie, parish, Kirkcudbright, i. 96.
Balmaha, in Buchanan, i. 157.
Balmakelly, moor, Marykirk, ii. 236.
Balmakewan, mansion, Marykirk, ii. 235.
Balmalcolm, village, Fife, i. 97.
Balmaleedie Hill, Marykirk, ii. 235.
Balmanno Castle, Dron, i. 292.
Balmashinar, hill, Forfar, i. 439.
Balmbrae, village, Fife, i. 97.
Balmerino, parish, Fife, i. 97.
Bal Mhoadan, Argyllshire, i. 60, 62.
Balmoral, house, in Crathie, i. 229.
Balmore, village, Baldernock, i. 92, 98.
Balmule, house, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Balmullo, village, Fife, i. 98, ii. 174, 175.
Balmuto, seat, Kinghorn, ii. 76'.
Balnaboth, seat, Kirriemuir, ii. 132.
Balnabruach, village, Ross and Cromarty,
i. 98, ii. 319.
Balnacraig, estate, in Aboyne, Aberdeen, i.
32.
Balnagown, estate, Edderton, i. 359 ; Kil-
muir Easter, ii. 54.
Balnagown, forest, Kincardine, ii. 68.
Balnagown, stream, Kilmuir Easter, ii. 53 ;
Rosskeen, 431 .
Balna-huaigh, isle, Argyll, i. 99.
Balnakeilly, mansion, Moulin, ii. 284.
Balnakettle, in Fettercairn, i. 425.
Balnakiel, Durness, i. 342, 343.
Balnamoon, lands, Menmuir, ii. 248.
Balnapaling, village, Nigg, ii. 319.
Balnasuisi, hamlet, Perth, L 99.
Balnkirk, Kennoway, ii. 13.
Balquhain Castle, in Garioch, i. 464, 465.
Balquhidder, lands, Methven, ii. 251.
Balquhidder, parish, Perth, i. 99.
Balquhindachy, hill, Methlick, ii. 250.
Balruddery, Liff and Benvie, ii. 179.
Balrymont, hills, St. Andrew's, i. 48.
Balshandie, lake, Lundie and Fowlis,ii. 221.
INDEX.
Balsillie, heights, Leslie, ii. 170.
Balta, islet, Shetland, i. 99, ii. 578.
Balthayock, mansion, Kinnoull, ii. 88, 89.
Balvag, river, Balquhidder, i. 99.
Balvaird, castle, in Abernethy, Fife, i. 30.
Balvenie, district, Banffshire, i. 105.
Balvery, castle, Mortlach, ii. 281.
Balvicar^ Kilbrandon and Kilchattan, ii. 19,
20.
Balwahanaid, hamlet, Perth, i. 99.
Balweary, castle, in Abbotshall, Fife, i. 2.
Balwherne, hamlet, Perth, i. 99.
Bamff, lands, in Alyth, i. 42, 43.
Bamfiat, in Culter, i. 248.
Banchoby-Devenick, parish, i. 99.
Banchory-Ternan, parish, Kincardine, i.
100.
Bandirran, Kettins, ii. 14.
Bandrum, seat, Saline, ii. 447.
Bane's Hole, cave, Knockando, ii. 136.
Baneton, village, Fife, i. 101.
BANFF, burgh, i. 101, ii. 225.
BANFFSHIRE, i. 104.
Bankend, village, Dumfries, i. 105.
Bankfoot, village, Perth, i. 105 — i. 78.
Bank-Head, Canisbay, ii. 252.
Bankhead, Slamannan, ii. 469.
Bankhead, district, Aberdeenshire, i. 105.
Bankhead, farm, Linton, ii. 187.
Bankhead, hamlet, Forfar, i. 105.
Bankhead, seat, Currie, i. 258.
Bankuock, in Denny, i. 279.
Bankton-Park, village, Fife, i. 105.
Banniskirk, in Halkirk, i. 531.
Bannock, burn, Stirlingshire, i. 106 ; ii. 320,
496.
Bannockburn, village, Stirling, i. 105 ; ii.
319,320,321.
Bantaskine House, Falkirk, i. 415, 416.
Banton, village, Stirling, i. 106, ii. 63.
Banton, Lower, village, Kilsyth, i. 76.
Bar, The, Auldearn, i. 82.
Bar Hill, Old Cumnock, i. 254.
Bar-Michael, wood, near Bothwell-Bridge,
i. 533.
Bara, Haddington. See Garvald.
Barachan, creek, Kilfinichen and Kilviceu-
en, ii. 33.
Barachnie, village, Lanark, i. 106.
Baradale, in Ardnamurchan, Argyllshire, i.
65.
Barassie, farm, Dundonald, i. 321, 489.
Barbaraville, village, Kilmuir Easter, i.
106.
Barberswells, hamlet, Forfar, i. 106.
Barbieston, lands, Dalrymple, i. 268, 269.
Barbreck, house, Craignish, i. 224.
Barbush, Kilbarchan, ii. 17.
Barcaldine, mansion, Ardehattan, i. 62.
Barcaple, seat, Tongland, ii. 547.
Barden, stream, Birnie, i. 128.
Bardowie, mansion, Baldernock, i. 92.
Baremman, lands, Roseneath, ii. 427, 428.
Barewan, Nairnshire, i. 194.
Bargally, house, Minnigaff, ii. 258.
Bargany, estate, Dailly, i. 259, 260.
Bargeny, seat, Ayrshire, i. 89.
Bargrennan, Minnigaff, ii. 258.
Barhill, hamlet, Ayr, i. 106, 213.
Barholm House, Kirkmabreck, ii. 111.
Barjarg, hamlet, Dumfries, i. 106, ii. 2.
Barleith, lands, Riccarton, ii. 420.
Barleyside, hamlet, Stirling, i. 106.
599
Barlocco, in Rerwick, ii. 417.
Barmekin, in Keig, ii. 2.
Barniiean, hill, Echt, i. 357.
Barmore, South Knapdale, ii. 135.
Barnamuch, farm, in Ardehattan, Argyll,
i. 61.
Barubarroch, Kirkinner, ii. 107.
Barnbougle, lands, Dalmeny, i. 265.
Barucluith, Hamilton, i. 533, 534.
Barncorkrie, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Barnellan, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Barness, farm, Kirkinner, ii. 107.
Barnhill, hamlet, Forfar, i. 106, ii. 264.
Barnhill, village, Lanark, i. 106.
Barnhill, mansion, Kinnoull, ii. 88.
Barnhill, seat, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59.
Barnhowrie, estate, Colvend, i. 215.
Barnkirk Hills, Annan, i. 52.
Barns, mansion, Manor parish, ii. 230.
Barns, East, village, Dunbar, i. 354.
Barns, West, village, Dunbar, ii. 598.
Barusford, in Iuchinnan, i. 558.
Barnshean, stream and loch, Kirkmichael,
ii. 115.
Barnside Hill, Mouswald, ii. 285.
Barnslee, castle, Markinch, ii. 232.
Barntalloeh, castle, Langholm, ii. 147.
Barnton, house, Cramond, i. 227.
Barnweill, Ayr. See Craigie, and Tarbolton.
Barnyards, castle, Tannadiee, ii. 529.
Barnyards, village, Fife, i. 106.
Barochan, estate, Houston, i. 549.
Barogill Castle, Caithness, i. 106.
Barone Hill, Rothesay, ii. 434.
Barony, in Gartly, Banff, i. 465.
Barony, Lanark. See Glasgow.
Barony, lands, in Gorbals, i. 512.
Barr, hill, Kilbarchan, ii. 16.
Barr Hill, lands, Kirkintilloch, ii, 109.
Barr, lake, Lochwinnoeh, ii. 201 ; castle, 203.
Barr, parish, Ayr, i. 106.
Barra, parish, Inverness, i. 107.
Barra, Hill of, Bom-tie, i. 7, 149.
Barrack House, in Bower, i. 150.
Barras, in Kincardineshire, i. 336, ii. 84.
Barraston, in Baldernock, i. 92.
Barrel-of-Butter, islet, Orkney, i. 108.
Barrhead, village, Renfrew, i. 108, ii. 301.
Barrie, parish, Fox-far, i. 108.
Barroch, seat, Caithness, i. 1 66.
Barrogil Castle, Canisbay, i. 176.
Barrowfield, near Glasgow, i. 155, 168.
Barry Hills, in Alyth, Perth, i. 42, 43.
Barscobe, Balmaclellan, i. 95, 96.
Barshell Hill, in Tinwald, ii. 543.
Barskimming, estate, Stair, ii. 484. — ii. 237.
Bartlehill, eminence, Eccles, i. 355.
Barvas, parish, Ross and Cromarty, i. 109.
Barvic, stream, Monivaird and Strowan, ii.
267.
Barwhinnock, house, Twynholm, ii. 569.
Bashaw, Car-luke, i. 180.
Bass, in Inverury, i. 580, 581.
Bass, isle, Haddington, i. 110, 122, 123.
Bassendean, Berwickshire, ii. 601, 602.
Basta Voe, in North Yell, i. 423, 424.
Bath, lands, Beith, i. 113.
Bathan's, Abbey, St., parish, i. 1 10.
BATHGATE, burgh, Linlithgow, i. 110.
Battery, East, pier, Queensferry, ii. 397.
Battery, West, pier, Queensferry, ii. 397.
Battledykes, Roman camp, Oathlaw, ii. 325.
Battle Hill, in Annan, i. 52.
Battle Hill, in Drumblade, i. 292.
Battle Knowes, in Whitsome and Hilton, ii.
607.
Battle Law, in Balmerino, i. 98.
Battle-Muir, Langton, ii. 149.
Battoek, lands, Polmont, ii. 378.
Battock, Mount, mountain, Strachan, ii. 504.
Baturrich Castle, Kilmaronock, ii. 44.
Bay Cottage, in Avoch, i. 83.
Bay, loch, Duirimsh, i. 300.
Bayanne, in North Yell, i. 424.
Bayble, bay, Stornoway parish, Lewis, ii.
503.
Bayfield, mansion, Nigg, ii. 319.
Bayhierava, harbour, Barra, i. 1 07.
Baynton, Fife. See Baneton.
Beacon, in Torthorwald, ii. 554.
Beacon Hill, Bressay, i. 153.
Bealach, pass, Kintail, ii. 92.
Bealaeh-a-Chumhain- Glais, frith, Lunga
Island, ii. 222.
Bealochintie, bay, Killean and Kilchenzie,
ii. 34.
Beanoch, loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Beanston, residence, Prestonkirk, ii. 393.
Beardy-Row, village, Bertram-Shotts, ii. 4 47-
Beath, parish, Fife, i. 112.
Beaton's Mill, in St. Ninian's, ii. 603.
Beattock Inn, Kirkpatrick-Juxta, ii. 125.
Beaufort Castle, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Beauly, river, Kilmorack, i. 112, ii. 49 ;
Kiltarlity, ii. 63 ; Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Beauly, village, Kilmorack, i, 112, ii. 50.
Beckton, hi Dryfesdale, i. 296.
Bedlay, well, Chryston, i. 198.
Bedlormie, castle, Torphichen, ii. 553.
Bedrule, parish, Roxburgh, i. 112.
Bee, Loch, in South Uist, ii. 576.
Beechwood, mansion, Corstorphine, i. 218.
Beechwood, mansion, Kettins, ii. 14.
Beil, rivulet, Beil-Grange, i. 113.
Beil, seat, Stenton, ii. 486.
Beil-Grange, hamlet, Haddington, i. 113.
Bein-a-Bhragidh, hill, Golspie, i. 511.
Beinabhuiridh, mountain, Gleuorchy, i. 509.
Beinachleidh, mountain, Glenorchy, i. 509.
Bein-an-inich, Isle of Mull, ii. 293.
Bein-Breacaidh, mountain, Moulin, ii. 284.
Beindourain, mountain, Glenorchy, i. 509,
Beinevean, loch, Kilmorack, ii. 49.
Bein-Heinish, hill, Tiree, ii. 544.
Beinlaoidh, mountain, Glenorchy, i. 509.
Beinligh, hill, Portree, ii. 389.
Bein-Lundie, hill, Golspie, i. 511.
Beinmacmonaidh, mountain, Glenorchy, i.
509.
Beinn-a-Chaolais, hill, Jura, i. 591.
Beinn-an-Oir, hill, Jura, i. 591.
Beinn-Bharfhionn, Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Beinn-chait, Blair- Atholl, i. 132.
Bein-deirg, Blair- Atholl, i. 132.
Beinne-Leothaid, in Eddrachillis, i. 360.
Beinnemhian, loch, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Beinne-Shith, in Sutherland, i. 360.
Beinne-Stac, in Eddrachillis, i. 360.
Beinne-Stroim, in Eddrachillis, i. 360.
Beinn-ghlo, Blair-Atholl, i. 132.
Beinn-Ghulbhuinn, Kirkmichael, ii. 118.
Beinn-mheadhonaidh, Blair-Atholl, i. 132.
Beinn-Shianta, hill, Jura, i. 591.
BEITH, parish, Renfrew and Ayr, i. 1 13.
Belchester, house, Eccles, i. 355.
Belentomb of Inverallan, i. 345,
INDEX.
Belfield, seat, Inveresk, ii. 323.
Belhaven, village, Haddington, i. 115, 310.
Belhelvie, farm, in Flisk, i. 433.
Belhelvie, parish, Aberdeen, i. 115.
Belhennie, hamlet, Rhynie and Essie, ii. 419.
Belivat, Loch, in Ardclaeh, Nairn, i. 63.
BellRockLightbouse,opposite Arbroath, i. 57.
Bella, stream, Old Cumnock, i. 254.
Bellabeg, house, Strathdon, ii. 513.
Belladrum, mansion, Kiltarlity, ii. 64.
Bellahoustown, in Govan, i. 515.
Beliauocli, village, North Knapdale, ii. 133.
Bellaty, farm, Glenisla, i. 507.
Bell-Craig, cascade, Wamphray, ii. 591.
Bellefield, mansion, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Belleville, estate, in Alvie, Inverness, i. 42.
Bellevue, residence, Auchtermuchty, i. 81.
Bellfield, house, Cupar, i. 256.
Bellfield, mansion, Riccarton, ii. 421.
Belliduff, tumulus, Meigle, ii. 243.
Bellie, parish, Banff and Elgin, i. 115.
Belloch, castle, Bonhill, i. 141.
Bellshill, village, Lanark, i. 116, 148.
Bell's Know, Borrowstounness, i. 144.
Bell's-Quarry, village, Edinburgh, i. 1 16.
Bellstown, hamlet, Perth, i. 116.
Bell-tree, ancient ash, Methven, ii. 252.
Bellwood, house, Glencross, i. 504.
Bellwood, mansion, Kinnoull, ii. 88.
Bellyclone, hamlet, Perth, i. 116, ii. 226.
Belmont House, Meigle, ii. 243.
Belmont, mansion, Corstorphine, i. 218.
Belmont, residence, Shetland, ii. 579.
Belnaboth, in Towie, ii. 558.
Belnagoak, hill, Methlick, ii. 250.
Belretiro, house, in Bonhill, i. 141.
Belrinnes, mountain, Banffshire, i. 105.
Belton House, Dunbar, i. 312.
Belton Water, Dunbar, i. 311.
Beltonford, burn, Haddingtonshire, i. 529.
Beltrees, Lochwinnoch, ii. 203.
Belty, burn, Kincardine O'Neil, ii. 70.
Belvidere, house, Camlachie, i. 172.
Bemersyde Hill, Mertoun, ii. 248 ; House,
249.
Ben-Aburd, mountain, Aberdeenshire, i. 22.
Benachally, mountain, Clunie, i. 203, 204.
Benachielt, ravine, Latheron, ii. 154.
Benagen, mountain, Boharm, i. 137, 138.
Ben-a-gheil, Latheron, ii. 154.
Benalder, mountain, Laggan, ii. 139.
Benan Head, Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Benarmine, hill, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Ben-Aulay, Ardchattan, i. 61, 62.
Ben-Aven, mountain, Aberdeenshire, i. 22.
Benbecula, island, Inverness, i. 116.
Benbraniaehan, hill, Dalmellington, i. 264.
Benbreck, farm, Dairy, i. 268.
Benbreoch, hill, Dalmellington, i. 264.
Benbui, mountain, Inverary, i. 566.
Ben-Bui, Nairnshire, ii. 299.
Ben-Chaorach, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Ben-C'hapull,Kilninver andKilmelford, ii. 56.
Benchochan, mountain, Aberfoyle,Perth,i. 25.
Benchoin, hill, Balquhidder, i. 99.
Benclionzie, hill, Monivaird and Strowan,
ii.266.
Ben-Chlibrig, Farr, i. 418.
Benchroin, Balquhidder, i. 99.
Bencleucli, bill, Tillicoultry, ii. 540.
Bencloch, hill, Alva, Stirling, i. 39.
Ben-Cochail, mountain, Ardchattan, Argyll,
i.61.
600
Ben-Cornachantian, Luss, ii. 222.
Ben-Cruachan, mountain, Ardchattan, i. 60,
69.
Bendearg, mountain, Durness, i. 342.
Ben-Deirg, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Benderloch, district, Argyllshire, i. 60.
Bendochy, parish, Perth, i. 116, 135.
Ben-Don, mountain, Aberfoyle, Perth, i. 25.
Ben-eaddan, mountain, Morvern, ii. 283.
Beneagen, hill, Rothes, ii. 432.
Beneich, hill, Dumbartonshire, i. 304.
Ben-Finnart, Dumbartonshire, i. 304.
Benfrectan, in Reay parish, ii. 409.
Bengaillin, Campbelltown, i. 173.
Bengairn, hill, Rerwick, ii. 416.
Bengali, village, Dryfesdale, i. 295.
Ben-Griam-more, Kildonan, ii. 30.
Benintuirk, mountain, Saddell and Skipness,
ii. 445.
Benholme, parish, Kincardine, i. 117, 120.
Ben-Hope, Durness, i. 342.
Ben-Horn, hill, Golspie, i. 511.
Ben-Hutig, mountain, Tongue, ii. 548.
Ben-Ketlan, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Ben-Laoghal, hill, Tongue, ii. 548, 549.
Ben-Lawers, Perth, ii. 365.
Ben-Ledi, Perthshire, ii. 365.
Ben-Loch, in Cross and Burness, i. 240.
Ben-Lomond, Buchanan, i. 157.
Ben-Macdhui, mountain, Aberdeenshire, i.
229.
Beu-Maigh, in Torosay, ii. 551.
Ben-Molurgan, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Benmore, in Dunoon and Kilrnun, i. 337.
Benmore, Kilfinichen and Kilviceuen, Ar-
gyllshire, ii. 32.
Benmore, mountain, Assynt, i. 73.
Benmore, mountain, Killin, ii. 37-
Ben-na-Bad, Reay parish, ii. 408.
Bennabuird, hill, Crathie, i. 229.
Ben-na-Cailich, eminence, Skye, ii. 467.
Ben-na-hua, mountain, Morvern, ii. 283.
Ben-Nambian, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Bennamuickduidh, in Crathie, i. 229.
Ben-Nan-Aighean, mountain, Ardchattan,
i. 61.
Benneaw, hill, Glenbucket, i. 501.
Bennetstone, village, Stirling, i. 118.
Ben-Nevis, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Ben-Newe, hill, Strathdon, ii. 512.
Benochee, mountain, Oyne, ii. 336.
Ben-Ormin, in Clyne, i. 204.
Ben-Radh, Reay parish, ii. 408.
Ben-Reisipoll, mountain, Argyll, i. 65, 69.
Benrinnes, mountain, Banffshire, i. 27.
Ben-Ruaidh, Reay parish, ii. 408.
Ben-Scoullard, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Benshalgs, lake, Knockando, ii. 136.
Ben-Shurery, Reay parish, ii. 408.
Ben-Spionnadh, Durness, i. 342.
Ben-Starive, mountain, Ardchattan, Argyll,
i. 61.
Benston, in Old Cumnock, i. 254.
Bentallachan, hill, Balquhidder, i. 99.
Bentealluidh, in Torosay, ii. 551.
Ben-Treelahan, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Bents, Burn of, in Alford, Aberdeen, i. 35.
Ben-Ulay, Kintail, ii. 92.
Benutium, Roman station, Kirkcudbright,
ii. 100.
Benvalla, hill, Stobo, ii. 498.
Benvan, hill, Kilmartin, ii. 44.
Benvane, hill, Balquhidder, i. 99.
Ben-Veallich, Loth parish, ii. 215.
Ben-Vean, Ardchattan, i. 61,62.
Ben-Veedan, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Benvenue, mountain, Aberfoyle, Perth, i.
25.
Benvie, village, Liff, i. 118.
Benvigory, hill, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Ben-Voirlich, Balquhidder, ii. 194.
Benvraick, hill, Drymen, i. 296.
Ben-Vreck, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Benwhat, hill, Dalmellington, i. 264.
Ben-Wyvis, Fodderty, i. 434, ii. 64.
Berbeth, glen, Straiton, ii. 506, 507.
Beregonium, ancient city, Argyll, i. 62.
Bernard's, St., Well, Edinburgh, i. 378.
Bernera, isle, Barra, Inverness, i. 118— i.
107, 108.
Bernera, isle, in Harris, i. 118.
Bernera, Great and Little, isles, in Uig,
Lewis, i. 118.
Bernice, house, Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 337.
Berriedale, district, Caithness, i. 118, ii.
155.
Berry Rock, Walls and Sandness, ii. 589.
Berryhill, farm, Auchtergaven, i. 79.
Bertha, ancient name of Perth, ii. 357.
Bertrasi-Shotts, parish, Lanark, i. 118,
171.
Bertyland, Fife, i. 160.
Berubium, Roman station, Caithness, i. 315.
Bervie, burgh, Kincardine, i. 120.
Bervie, Water of, Arbuthnott, i. 59 ; Bervie,
120, 121 ; Glenbervie, 501.
BERWICK, NORTH, parish, Haddington,
i. 122.
BERWICK-UPON-TWEED, i. 124. 126.
Berwick and Edinburgh, or North British,
railway, i. 379.
BERWICKSHIRE, i. 126.
Bethelnie, Meldrum, ii. 243.
Betteral Well, New Machar, ii. 226.
Bettyhill, in Farr, i. 419.
Bhrodichan, Loch, Crathie, i. 229.
Bhruach, Loch, Duthil, i. 345.
Bible Stone, Birnie, i. 129.
Bieldside, residence, Peterculter, ii. 368.
Bigga, isle, Shetland, i. 126.
BIGGAR, town, Lanark, i. 126.
Biggar Water, Biggar, i. 127 ; Broughton,
155 ; Skirling, ii. 467.
Bighouse, seat, Reay, ii. 409.
Big Rock, mountain, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Bilbo, in Crimond, i. 237.
Bilsdean, hamlet, Haddington, i. 128, ii.
327.
Bilston, burn, Lasswade, ii. 154.
Bimar, in Inverkeithing, i. 573.
Bin Hill, Cullen, i. 245.
Binarty, hill, Ballingry, i. 95.
Binchennin, hills, Forfarshire, i. 440.
Binean, hill, Balquhidder, i. 99.
Binghill, residence, Peterculter, ii. 368.
Binks, house, Queensferry, ii. 398.
Binliga, hill, Stobo, ii. 498.
Binn, hill, Kinfauns, ii. 73.
Binnan Hill, in Straiton, ii. 506.
Binnaness Voe, in Tingwall, ii. 541.
Binnans, hill, Greenock, i. 525.
Binning Wood, Whitekirk, ii. 605.
Binns, hill, in Abercorn, Linlithgow, i. 4.
Binns House, seat, in Abercorn, Linlithgow,
i. 4.
Binny Craig, hill, Linlithgow, ii. 183.
INDEX.
Binny, East, Linlithgow, ii. 183.
Birdstoxe, village, Stirling, i. 128.
Birghaji, village, Berwick, i. 128. 355.
Birkeubog, seat, Fordyce, i. 438.
Birkenside, Legerwood, ii. 161.
Birkhall, house, in Glenmuick, i. 508.
Birkhill, Balmerino, Fife, i. 98.
Birkhill-Feus, Liffand Benvie, ii. 179.
Birnam Hill, Perth, ii. 365.
Birnam Lodge, and Cottage, Dunkeld,i. 331 .
Birnie, parish, Elgin, i. 128.
Birns Water, Bolton, i. 140.
Birrens, Middlebie, ii. 252.
Birsay and Harray, Orkney, i. 129.
Birse, parish, Aberdeen, i. 130 — i. 31.
Bishop Loch, Old Monkland, i. 164, ii. 269.
Bishopmill, village, Elgin, i. 130, ii. 481,
482.
Bishopric, district, Little Dunkeld, i. 331.
Bishopsbridge, hamlet, Lanark, i. 130
Bishop's Burn, in Wigton, ii. 612.
Bishop's Forest, hill, Kirkpatrick-Irongray,
ii. 124.
Bishop's Forest, Nigg, ii. 318.
Bishop's Hill, Portmoak, ii. 384, 458.
Bishop's Isle, Inverness, i. 118.
Bishop's Loch, New Machar, ii. 225.
Bishop's Walk, Dunblane, i. 314.
Bishopton, village, Renfrew, i. 131, 405.
Bishopton-Ridge, Renfrewshire, i. 489.
Blackadder, river, Edrom, i. 394, 395 ; Fogo,
435 ; Greenlaw, 521 ; Westruther, ii.601.
Blackadder House, Edrom, i. 395.
Black-Andrew, hill, Selkirkshire, ii. 46] .
Blaekbog, castle, New Cumnock, i. 253.
Blackbraes, in Muiravonside, ii. 290.
Black Bum, Blackness, i. 131.
Black Burn, rivulet, Rafford, ii. 400.
Blackburn, stream, Castleton, i. 190.
Blackburn, stream, Crawfordjohn, i. 231.
Blackburn, hamlet, Kinnellar, ii. 86.
Blackburn, village, Linlithgow, i. 131, ii.
191.
Black Cairn, eminence, Newburgh, ii. 308.
Black Cart, river. See Cart, Black.
Black Castle, in Garvald and Bara, i. 467.
Black-Craig, Blantyre, i. 136.
Blaekcraig, St. Ninian's, ii. 320.
Blackcraig, estate, Blairgowrie, i. 134.
Blaekcraig, lands, Ecclesmachan, i. 356.
Blackcraig, mountain, New Cumnock, i. 253.
Black Devon, river. See Devon, Black.
Blackdikes, Kettle, ii. 15.
Black Dyke, Eckford, i. 358.
Black-Earnside, forest, Dunbarny, i. 312.
Blackerstone, in Longformacus and Ellim,
ii. 211,212.
Black Esk. See Esk, Black.
Blackethouse, seat, Kirtle, ii. 132.
Blacket-House, stronghold, Middlebie, ii.
253.
Blackford, parish, Perth, i. 131.
Blackford Hills, Edinburghshire, i. 391.
Blackball, Paisley, ii. 342.
Blackhall, seat, Strachan, ii. 504, 505.
Black Hill, Tynron, ii. 570.
Blaekhill, near Glasgow, i. 488, ii. 270.
Blackhill, Logie Easter, ii. 208.
Blaekhill, Peterhead, ii. 370.
Blackhill, eminence, Earlstoun, i. 352.
Black Hillock, in Auldearn, i. 83.
Blackhills, near Elgin, i. 398.
Blackhouse Heights, Yarrow, ii. 617.
Vol. I.— 601
Blackiemuir, lands, Laurencekirk, ii. 1 57.
Black Isle, district, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
118, 430.
Black Jack, castle, Craig, i. 222.
Black-Larg Hill, Sancpahar, ii. 453.
Blaeklaw, hill, Lundie and Fowlis, ii. 221.
Black Loch, Dumfries, i. 307.
Black Loch, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Black Loch, Mearns, ii. 242.
Black Loch, Great, Slamannan, ii. 469.
Black Loch, Little, Slamannan, ii. 469.
Blacklunans, in Alyth, Forfar, i. 43.
Blackmill, bay, Kilbrandon and Kilchattan,
ii. 19.
Black Mount, in Walston, ii. 590.
Blackness, lands, Liffand Benvie, ii. 178.
Blackness, village, Linlithgow, i. 131, 186.
Blackpots, near Whitehills, Banff, ii. 604.
Blackridge, village, Linlithgow, i. 132, ii.
553.
Blackshaws, village, Dumfries, i. 164.
Blackshiels, hamlet, Fala, i. 142.
Blaekstone, lands, Kilbarchan, ii. 17, 188.
Black Tower, Hawick, i. 538, 539.
Blackup Scars, Heriot, i. 541.
Blackwall House, Paisley, ii. 344.
Blackwater of Dee, Balmaghie, i. 97.
Black Water, Methlick, ii. 250.
Blackwater, stream, Cabrach, i. 163.
Blackwater, stream, Dairy, i. 267.
Blackwater, stream, Perthshire ; Bendochy,
i. 117 ; Blairgowrie, 134 ; Kirkmichael,
ii. 118.
Blackwater-Foot, cairn, Kilmorie, ii. 52.
Blackwood, estate, Keir, ii. 2.
Bladnoch, village, Wigton, i. 132.
Bladnoch, stream, Kirkinner, ii. 107 ; Kirk-
owan, 121 ; Penninghame, 354.
Blaeloch-head, in Beith, i. 114.
Blaiky's Point, Ayton, i. 90.
Blainslie, Upper, Melrose, ii. 246.
Blair, hill, Blairgowrie, i. 133, 134, 135.
Blair, lands, Carnock, i. 184.
Blair, lands, Dairy, i. 267.
Blair, Mount, Glenisla, i. 506.
Blair-Adam, Cleish, i. 201, 202 ; ii. 91.
Blair- Atholl, parish, Perth, i. 132.
Blairburn, hamlet, Perth, i. 133.
Blair Castle, Culross, i. 247.
Blairdaff, in Chapel of Garioch, i. 465.
Blair-Drummoud, Kincardine in Monteith,
ii. 69.
Blairfindy, in Inveraven, i. 568.
BLAIRGOWRIE, burgh, Perth, i. 133— i.
117.
Blair Hill, in Dailly, i. 259.
Blairingone, village, Perth, i. 135, 451.
Blair-in-roan, hill, Muthill, ii. 296, 297.
Blair-Logie, village, Perth, i. ] 33.
Blairmore, hamlet, Perth, i. 135.
Blairmormond, estate, Loninay, ii. 214.
Blair-mucks, lands, Shotts, i. 119.
Blair-na-coi, field, Knockbain, ii. 137.
Blairquhan Castle, ii. 507.
Blairs, estate, Maryculter, ii. 235.
Blairs, loch, Rafford, ii. 400.
Blair-Tummock, in Old Monkland, i. 241,
ii. 270.
Blakelaw, hill, Linton, ii. 187.
Blalowne, house, Cupar, i. 256.
Blane, river, Strathblane, ii. 511.
Blanefield, in Strathblane, ii. 511.
Blane's, St., hill, Kingarth, ii. 74.
Blantyre, parish, Lanark, i. 135.
Blaressen Spout-head, Killearn, ii. 35.
Blar' na'n Ceann, Ross and Cromarty, i.
216, 435.
Blatum Bulgium, Middlebie, ii. 252.
Blaven, height, Skye, ii. 467.
Blebo-Craigs, village, Fife, i. 137.
Blebo House, Kemback, ii. 10.
Blelack, seat, Logie-Coldstone, ii. 207.
Blelock, Middle, farm, Auchtergaven, i. 79.
Blervie, castle, Rafford, ii. 399, 400.
Bloak, hamlet, Stewarton, ii. 488.
Bloekairn, farm, Baldernock,i. 92.
Bloody Bay, isle of Mull, ii. 292.
Bloodylaws, height, Oxnam, ii. 335.
Bloody Pits, in Gamrie, i. 462.
Bloomhill, house, Cardross, i. 178.
Bluehill, Banffshire, i. 27.
Blue Mull Sound, Shetland, i. 423.
Blue-Row, hamlet, Dumbarton, i. 137.
Bluevale, village, Glasgow, i. 137.
Blythswood, Glasgow, i. 484.
Blythswood, lands, Inchinnan, i. 558.
Boadsberry, hill, Crawford, i. 230.
Boarhili.s, village, Fife, i. 137— i. 45.
Boar's Head, rock, Urquhart, ii. 581.
Boat Cave, Island of Staffa, ii. 483.
Boat-Green, harbour, Gatehouse, i. 470.
Boat of Bridge, Boharm, i. 138.
Boath, estate, Auldearn, i. 82.
Boehle, hill, Inveraven, i. 567.
Boddam, village, Aberdeen, i. 137.
Boddam Castle, Peterhead, ii. 370.
Boddin, point, Craig, i. 222.
Bodisbeck, hill, Moffat, ii. 260.
Boghall, castle, Biggar, i. 127, 128.
Boghead, Lochwinnoeh, ii. 202.
Boghead, residence, Bathgate, i. 112.
Boghead, village, Lanark, i. 137.
Bogie, river, Auchindoir, i. 75 ; Kinneth-
mont, ii. 86.
Bogie, Wester, lands, in Abbotshall, Fife, i.
1,2.
Bogmore, in Coull, Aberdeen, i. 219.
Bogrie, hill, Dunscore, i. 338.
Bogton, lake, Dalmellington, i. 264.
Boharm, parish, Elgin and Banff, i. 137.
Boilhandy, in Strathdon, ii. 513.
Boiling Well, spring, Scoonie, ii. 457.
Boindie, parish, Banff, i. 138— i. 103.
Boindie, stream, Banff, i. 103, 138.
Boisdale, loch, South Uist, ii. 576.
Bole, hamlet, Forfar, i. 139.
Boleskine and Abertarff, parish, Inver-
ness, i. 139.
Bolfracks, district, Fortiugal, i. 449.
Bolshan, lauds, Kinnell, ii. 85.
Bolton, parish, Haddington, i. 1 40.
Bolton Water. See Gifford Water.
Bombie, castle, Kirkcudbright, ii. 103.
Bona, old parish, Inverness, i. 577, 578.
Bon-Accord, district, Aberdeen, i. 140.
Bonally, House of, Colinton, i. 211.
Bonar, village, Sutherland, i. 140, 234, ii. 68.
Boncastle, mound, Douglas, i. 288.
Bonchester, hill, Hobkirk, i. 543.
Bones'Barn,Kilninver and Kilmelford, ii. 57.
Bo'ness. See Borrowstonnness.
Bonessan, village, Kilfinichen and Kilvi-
ceuen, ii. 33.
Bongate, village, Roxburgh, L 141.
Bonhard, seat, Linlithgowshire, ii. 185.
Bonhill, parish, Dumbarton, i. 141, ii. 222.
4 H
INDEX.
Boxjedward, village, Roxburgh, i. 141,587-
Boxkle, village, Lanark, i. 142.
Bonniugton, Lanark, ii. 143.
Boxxixgtox, hamlet, Forfar, i. 142.
Bonxixgton, village, Edinburgh, i. 142.
Bonnington House, Ratho, ii. 404.
Bonny, river, Bonnybridge, i. 142, 279.
Boxxybridge, village, Stirling, i. 142.
Bonnyrnuir, Stirlingshire, i. 142.
Boxxyeigg, village, Edinburgh, i. 142.
Bonnyside, near Falkirk, i. 414.
Bonnytown, estate, Marytown, ii. 236.
Boon Hill, Legerwood, ii. 160, 161.
Booshala. See Buachaille.
Boquhan, Stirlingshire, i. 463, ii. 94.
Boea Holm, inRendal, Orkney, i. 142.
Bord, loch, Kirkintilloch, ii. 108.
Bore, spring, Elderslie, i. 396.
Bored Stone, St. Ninian's, ii. 319.
Boreland, castle, Old Cumnock, i. 254.
Boreland, farm, Newlands, ii. 311.
Boeelaxd, village, Fife, i. 142.
Boreeay, isle, Inverness, i. 142.
Borg, Pictish house, Reay, ii. 409.
Borgie, stream, Tongue, ii. 548.
Boegue, parish, Kirkcudbright, i. 142.
Borland, farm, Walston, ii. 590.
Borland, mansion, Killin, ii. 37-
Borland-Park, village, Perth, i. 143.
Borlands, Kettins, ii. 15.
Borley, Loch, Burness, i. 342.
Borness, Borgue, i. 142.
Borough Moor, lands, Edinburgh, i. 362,
363, 391.
Boroughmuir, Linlithgow, ii. 184.
Boroughmuir-Head, Morningside, ii. 280.
Borough Roods, lands, Langholm, ii. 147.
Borron Point, Kirkbean, ii. 95, 96.
Borrovvston, in Reay parish, ii. 409.
Boeeowstoux, hamlet, Linlithgow, i. 143.
Borrowstounness, burgh, Linlithgow, i.
143.
Boethwick, parish, Edinburgh, i. 144.
Borthwick, vale, Roberton, ii. 422.
Borthwickbrae, mansion, Roberton, ii. 422.
Borthwickshiels, mansion, Roberton, ii. 422-
Borve, in Barvas, i. 109.
Borve, castle, in South Uist, ii. 677-
Borvie, district, Skye, ii. 473.
Bostox, in Dunse, Berwick', i. 146.
Boston, loch, Dairy, i. 267.
Boswell's, St., parish, Roxburgh, i. 146.
Boterie, Knockando, ii. 136.
Bothan's. St., old parish, Haddington, ii.
620, 621.
Bothkexxae, parish, Stirling, i. 146.
Bothwell, parish, Lanark, i. 147, 532.
Bothwell-Bridge, Lanark, i. 147, 148.
Bothwell-Haugh, Lanark, i. 1 47-
Bothwell Water, Spott parish, ii. 479.
Botripiixie, parish, Banff, i. 148.
Bouetie, parish, Aberdeen, i. 148.
Bourtree Hill, Irvine, i.' 504.
Bousta, hamlet, in Fair, i. 411.
Bow Butts, in Glencairn, i. 502.
Bow-Butts, in Strachan, ii. 505.
Bow Castle, Stow parish, ii. 504.
Bowden, parish, Roxburgh, i. 149.
Bowden, hill, Kettle, ii. 16.
Bowden Hill, Torphichen, ii. 552, 553.
Bower, parish, Caithness, i. 150, ii. 594.
Bowerhouse, mansion, Spott parish, ii. 479.
Bowhill, seat, Selkirk parish, ii. 460.
CO 2
Bow-Knap, rock, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Bowland, mansion, Stow, ii. 504.
Bowlixg-Bay, village, Dumbarton, i. 150,
ii. 59.
Bowmont, Roxburghshire, i. 358, ii. 621.
Bowmore, village, Argyll, i. 150, 585.
Bowriefauld, village, Forfar, i. 151.
Boyn, castle, Boindie, i, 139.
Boyn, district, Banffshire, i. 105.
Boyn, river, Boindie, i. 138, 139.
Boyndie, Banff. See Boindie.
Boyndlie, in Tyrie, ii. 571.
Boynes-Mill, house, Forgue, i. 444.
Braal, castle, Halkirk, i. 531.
Brabster House, Canisbay, i. 176.
Bracadale, parish, Inverness, i. 151.
Brack, loch, Balmaclellan, i. 95, 96.
Bracholy, former parish, Pettie, ii. 370.
Brackla, in Cawdor, i. 194.
Braekland, in Callander, i. 168.
Braco, in Grange, Banff, i. 518.
Beaco, village, Perth, i. 151.
Bractullo, mound, Kirkden, ii. 105.'
Braden, Loch, in Straiton, ii. 506.
Brae, The, Campsie, i. 174.
Brae-Dunstan, eminence, Eccles, i. 355.
Braehead, village, Lanark, i. 151, ii. 23.
Brae-Heads, suburb, Cupar, i. 255.
Braelangwell, lands, Kirkmichael and Culli-
cudden, ii. 119.
Braelangwell Lodge, Kincardine, ii. 68
Brae Lochaber, Kilmonivaig, ii. 49.
Braemar, Aberdeen. See Crathie, and Cas-
tletown.
Brae-Marr, district, Midmar, ii. 253.
Brae-Moray, district, Edinkillie, i. 392.
Brae-Riach, hill, Rothiemurchus, ii. 436.
Braeriach, mountain, in Aberdeenshire, i. 22.
Braeroddach, in Aboyne, Aberdeen, i. 31.
Braes, in Gartly, Aberdeen, i. 465.
Bragar, in Barvas, i. 109.
Bragrum, hamlet, Perth, i. 151.
Brahan Castle, in Urray, ii. 585, 586.
Braid, stream, Duddingston, i. 297.
Braid Hills, Edinburghshire, i. 391.
Braidwood, village, Lanark, i. 151.
Braidwood House, Carluke, i. 180, 181.
Braky, Easter, lands, Kinnell, ii. 85.
Braky, Wester, lands, Kinnell, ii. 85.
Bran, river, Little Dunkeld, i. 331, ii. 365.
Brand's Hill, St. Cyrus, i. 258.
Branxliolme, castle, Hawick, i. 539.
Brany, loch, Cortachy, i. 218.
Brany, stream, Lochlee, ii. 196.
Brawlbin, hill, Reay, ii. 409.
Breacacha, in Coll, Argyll, ii. 544, 545.
Breadalbane, district, Perth, ii. 364.
Breakrow, in Reay parish, ii. 409.
BRECHIN, burgh, Forfar, i. 151.
Breckry, stream, Southend, ii. 477-
Breconbeds, Kirtle, ii. 133.
Breda, seat, in Alford, Aberdeen, i. 36.
Breich, stream, Whitburn, ii. 603.
Brenahegleish, ravine, Latheron, ii. 154.
Breochel, castle, Rasay island, ii. 402.
Bressay, Burra, and Quarff, parish, i. 153.
Briarachan, river, Moulin, ii. 284.
Brickfield, near Blackness, i. 131.
Bridekirk, Dumfries. See Brydekirlc.
Bride's, St., Ring, Monifieth, ii. 264.
Bridge of Allan. See Allan, Bridge of. And
all places Jiaving a similar distinguishing
prefix will be found under the proper name.
Bridgecastle, lands, Torphichen, ii. 553.
Bridge-End, Maxwelltown, ii. 239.
Bridgegate, Glasgow, late quoad sacra pa-
rish, i. 496.
Bridgend, old parish, Aberdeen, i. 229.
Bridgend, in Aberdour, Aberdeen, i. 23.
Bridgend, village, Argyll, i. 154, ii. 16.
Bridgend, Forfar, i. 154.
Bridgend, near Glasgow, i. 512.
Bridgend, Kilchoman, ii. 27.
Bridgend, village, Perth, i. 154.
Bridgend, hamlet, Perth, i. 154.
Beidgexd, village, Ross and Cromarty, i.
154.
Beidgexd, South, village, Perth, i. 154.
Bridgend, West, village, Dumbarton, i.
154.
Beidgeness, village, Linlithgow, i. 154, 186.
Bridgeton, St. Cyrus, i. 258, 259.
Bridgeton, district, Glasgow, i. 154.
Bridgetown, village, Perth, i. 154.
Brierbush, hamlet, Penpont, ii. 356.
Briery- Yards, house, Wilton, ii. 615.
Brighton, lauds, Polmont, ii. 378.
Brindister Voe, Sandsting and Aithsting,
ii. 450.
Brisbane, vale, Largs, ii. 151 ; House, 152.
Broad Bay, Stornoway parish, Lewis, ii.
502.
Broadfield, mansion, Kilmalcolm, ii. 39.
Broadford, near Aberdeen, i. 13.
Broadford, village, Strath, ii. 509.
Broadhaven, village, Caithness, i. 155.
Broad Law, in Tweedsmuir, ii. 568.
Broadlee, farm, Roberton, ii. 422.
Broadlie, in Neilston, ii. 301.
Broad-Meadows, estate, Hutton, i. 553.
Broadmeadows, mansion, Selkirk parish, ii.
460.
Broad Moss, common, Rattray, ii. 407.
Broadsea, village, Aberdeen, i. 155.
Broatshouse, mansion, Kirkpatrick-Flem-
ing, ii. 124.
Brook, burn, Eastwood, i. 354.
Brocklehurst, Old, hamlet, Dumfries, i,
155.
Brodick, village, Bute, i. 155, ii. 20, 21, 22.
Brodie, in Dyke and Moy, i. 346, 347.
Broich, Crieff, i. 236.
Broich, burn, Kippen, ii. 94 ; house, 95.
Broigar, bridge, Firth and Stenness, i. 432.
Brolas, district, Kilfinichen and Kilviceuen,
ii. 32, 33.
Brony, valley, Ellon, i. 401, 402.
Brook, West, seat, Currie, i. 258.
Brooklands, mansion, Kirkpatrick-Durham,
ii. 122.
Broom, river, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Broom Acres, in Cummertrees, i. 252.
Broom, Loch, Dunkeld, i. 329.
Broom, Loch, Lochbroom, ii. 192, 193.
Broom, Little Loch, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Broom, Little, river, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Broomhall, lands, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Broomhall, seat, Charleston, i. 197-
Broomhill, lands, Larkhall, i. 270, ii. 152.
Broomhill, loch, Lochmaben, ii. 198.
Broomhill, mansion, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Broomholm, lands, Langholm, ii. 146, 147.
Broomhouse, in Edrom, i. 394.
Broomhouse, Easter, farm, Spott parish, ii.
479.
Broomielaw, Glasgow, i. 488.
INDEX.
Broomknoll, Lanark. See Airdrie.
Broomlands, village, Renfrew, i. 155.
Broomly, house, in Bonhill, i. 141.
Broomyleas, height, Newlands, ii. 311.
Brora, village, river, loeh, Sutherland, i.
155, 204 ; ii. 423.
Brosaig, loch, Argyll, i. 65.
Brother Isle, Shetland, i. 155.
Brother Loch, Mearns, ii. 242.
Brotherton, in Benholme, i. 117, 118.
Brothock, river, Arbroath, i. 58.
Brough, castle, Delting, i. 278.
Brough, haven, Dunnet, i. 333.
Brough-Head, Elgin. See Burgh-Head.
Brough Lodge, residence, Shetland, ii. 403.
Broughton, Glenholh, and Kilbucho,
Peebles, i. 155.
Broughty-Ferry, village, Forfar, i. 156,
ii. 264.
Brow, in Ruthwell parish, ii. 445.
Brow, mine, Leadhills, ii. 159.
Brown, Loeh, Mauchline, ii. 237.
Brown- Carrick Hill, Maybole, ii. 241.
Brownfield, near Glasgow, i. 156.
Brown Head, Kilraorie, ii. 51.
Brownieside, lands, Clarkston, i. 200.
Brownside, in Neilston, ii. 300.
Brownside Hill, in Alvah, Banff, i. 41.
Broxburn, river, Spott parish, ii. 479.
Broxburn, village, Linlithgow, i. 156, ii.
580.
Broxmouth Park, Dunbar, i. 311, 312.
Bruan, Latheron, ii. 154, 155.
Bruar, stream, Blair-Atholl, i. 132.
Bruce Castle, St. Ninian's, ii. 321.
Bruce, farm, Cummertrees, i. 252.
Brucefield, Clackmannan, i. 199.
Bruckenheugh, hill, Dunlop, i. 332.
Brunstaue, stream, Duddingston, i. 297.
Brunstane Castle, Penicuick, ii. 352.
Brunt, hill, Dunbar, i. 311.
Bruntaburn, in Westruther, ii. 602.
Brunton, hamlet, Fife, i. 156.
Brunton, village, Creich, ii. 223.
Bruray, isle, Skerries, Shetland, ii. 466.
Brux, Kildrummy, ii. 31.
Bruxie, in Old Deer, i. 276.
Bruxiehill, in Arbuthnott, i. 59,
Brydekirk, village, Dumfries, i. 156.
Buachail-Etive, mountains, Ardchattan, i.
61, 09.
Buachaille, isle, near Staffa, ii. 482.
Buccleuch, late quoad sacra parish, Edin-
burgh, i. 386.
Buccleuchs, farmsteads, Ettrick, i. 408.
Buehan, district, Aberdeenshire, i. 21, 105.
Buchanan, parish, Stirling, i. 157, ii. 222.
Buchanhaven, village, Aberdeen, i. 157.
Buehan Ness, Peterhead, ii. 369.
Buchanty, hamlet, Perth, i. 158.
Buchany, village, Perth, i. 158.
Bucharin, castle, Boharm, i. 137, 138.
Bucharn, farm, Gartly, i. 466.
Bucholie, castle, Caithness, i. 175.
Buck of Cabraeh, Auchindoir, i. 75.
Bucket, stream, Glenbucket, i. 501.
Buckhaven, village, Fife, i. 158, ii. 597.
Buckholmside, village, Roxburgh, i. 158.
Buckie, village, Banff, i. 158, ii. 405.
Buckie, Bum of, Alford, Aberdeen, i. 35.
Buckieburn, St. Ninian's, ii. 321.
Buckie Den, Lunan, ii. 220.
Buck Inch, isle, Renfrew, ii. 413.
603
Bucklerhead, hamlet, Forfar, i. 158.
Bucklyvie, village, Stirling, i. 158.
Buckwell, in Walston, ii. 590.
Buddo, rock, St. Andrew's, i. 48.
Buffs of Lewis, Island of Lewis, ii. 176.
Buie, stream, Ardchattan, i. 62.
Buitterlach, in Inveraven, i. 568.
Buittle, parish, Kirkcudbright, i. 158.
Bullers-Buchan, hamlet, Aberdeen, i. 159.
Bullion, in Liff and Benvie, ii. 194.
Bullion Well, Ecclesmachan, i. 356.
Bunachton, loeh, Daviot, i. 274.
Bunawe, Argyll, i. 61, 62, 6!) ; ii. 288.
Bunchrew, mansion, Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Bundaloch. See Domie.
Buness, house, Unst, ii. 579.
Bunkle and Preston, parish, Berwick, i.
159.
Bunkle Edge, hill, i. 159.
Bunroy, in Kilmonivaig, ii. 49.
Bunty, village, Aberdeenshire, i. 31, 197.
Burdiehouse, Liberton, ii. 178.
Burg, promontory, Kilfmichen and Kilvi-
ceuen, ii. 33.
Burgh-Head, village, Elgin, i. 160, 299.
Burghill, near Brechin, i. 152.
Burgie, in RafFord, ii. 399, 400.
Burican, Kilmorie, ii. 52.
Burleigh Castle, Orwell, ii. 334.
Burnbanks, hamlet, Kincardine, i. 160.
Burnbrae, house, Calder, i. 167.
Burnbridge, hamlet, Stirling, i. 160.
Burness, Orkney. See Cross.
Burness, house, Firth and Stenness, i. 432.
Burness, lake, Westray, ii. 600.
Burnfoot, in Glendevon, i. 505.
Burnfoot, Lochwinnoch, ii. 202.
Burnfoot, bay, Rerwick, ii. 416.
Burnfoot, mansion, Westerkirk, ii. 599.
Burnfoot, seat, Middlebie, ii. 253.
Burngrove, house, Wilton, ii. 615.
Burnhaven, village, Aberdeen, i. 160.
Burnhead, Carluke, i. 181.
Burnhead, hamlet, Penpont, ii. 356.
Burn House, Fettercairn, i. 425.
Burnhouse, mansion, Stow, ii. 504.
Burnmouth, village, i. 90.
Burnock Water, Ochiltree, ii. 326.
Burns, hamlet, Fife, i. 160.
Burnside, in Dirleton, i. 282.
Burnside, in Inveraven, i. 568.
Burnside, hill, Rescobie, ii. 417.
Burnside, mansion, Rathven, ii. 405.
Burnswark, hill, Hoddam, i. 544.
Burntisland, burgh, Fife, i. 160, 427.
Burntsfield House, Morningside, ii. 280.
Burntsfield-Links, Morningside, i. 388, ii.
280.
Bumturk, Kettle, ii. 15.
Burra and Quarff, in Bressay, Shetland,
i. 153, 154, 162.
Burra Firth, Unst, ii. 578.
Burrafirth, West, in Sandsting and Aith-
sting, ii. 450.
Burra Sound, Bressay, i. 153.
Burra Voe, in Yell, ii. 619.
Burray, isle, Orkney, i. 162.
Burreltown, village, Perth, i. 162.
Burrion Castle, North Ronaldshay, Orkney,
ii. 424.
Burrow Head, Whithorn, ii. 606.
Burrowhead, in Stronsay, ii. 519.
Burwardstown, Borrowstounness, i. 143.
Busby, village, Lanark and Renfrew, i.
162, ii. 242.
Busby Castle, Kilmaurs, ii. 46.
Bush, house, Glencross, i. 504.
Bushyhill, village, Lanark, i. 162.
Busta, house, Delting, i. 277, 278.
Bute, Isle of, Buteshire, i. 162.
Bute, North, parish, Buteshire, i. 162.
BUTESHIRE, i. 163.
Buttergask, hamlet, Perth, i. 163.
Butterstone, loch, Caputh, i. 177-
Butts, in Renfrew parish, ii. 414.
Buy, Loch, Isle of Mull, ii. 292, 551.
Byrecleugh, Longformacus and EUim, ii.
211,212.
Byth House, King-Edward parish, ii. 75-
Byth, New. See Newbyth.
Caaf, river, Dairy, i. 266, 207.
Caanlochan, in Glenisla, i. 506.
Cabrach, parish, Aberdeen, i. 163.
Cadboll, castle, Fearn, i. 420.
Caddam, village, Cupar- Angus, i. 257.
Caddel, burn, Ardrossan, Ayr, i. 68.
Cadden, castle, Kinneff, ii. 84.
Cadder, parish, Lanark, i. 164.
Cadder, river, Avondale, i. 84.
Cademuir, farm, Manor parish, ii. 230.
Cadger's Brig, in Biggar, i. 127.
Cadgerton, village, Monifieth, ii. 263.
Cadzow, ancient parish, Lanark, i. 532, 534,
535.
Caerbantorigum, fort, Kirkcudbright, ii. 1 00.
Caerdean, mansion, Meigle, ii. 243.
Caerketton, in Edinburghshire, i. 211, 391.
Caerlanrig, in Cavers, i. 194.
Caerlaverock, parish, Dumfries, i. 161.
Caerwinning, hill, Dairy, i. 267.
Cailm, loch, Reay, ii. 409.
Cairn, stream, Dumfries, i. 219 ; Dunscore,
338 ; Glencairn, 502 ; Kirkpatrick-lron-
gray, ii. 124.
Cairn of Dolt, hill, Kirkmaiden, ii. 113.
Cairn of Ord, Banff, i. 103.
Cairnakay, hill, Banffshire, i. 27.
Caim-a-Mount, Kincardineshire, ii. 7L
Cairnapple, Bathgate, i. 111.
Cairn-Arc, Inverness, i. 578.
Cairn-a-Vain, Orwell, ii. 334.
Cairn-a-Veil, Kinnellar, ii. 85.
Cairnbarrow, mountain, Kirkcudbright, ii.
103.
Cairnbeddie, hamlet, Perth, i. 165, ii. 233.
Cairnbroe, in Bothwell, i. 148, 546.
Cairnbulg, village, Aberdeen, i. 165, ii.
403.
Cairnburghs, isles, Kilninian and Kilmore,
ii. 54, 56, 560.
Cairn-Chainachan, hill, Monivaird and
Strowan, ii. 267.
Caimehuinaig, hill, Kincardine, ii. 68.
Cairn-Coinneag, mountain, Rosskeen, ii. 431.
Cairn-Dui, height, Nairnshire, ii. 299.
Cairn-Edward, Kells, ii. 6.
Cairness, estate, Lonmay, ii. 214.
Cairneyflappet, castle, Strathmiglo, ii. 514.
Cairney-Hill, Perth. See Carnie-Hill.
Cairneyhill, village, Fife, i. 165.
Caimey Mount, Carluke, i. 181.
Cairnfield, in Gairloeh, i. 458.
Cairnfield, Kirkinner, ii. 107.
4H 2
INDEX.
Cairnfield, mansion, Rathven, ii. 405.
Cairngall, mansion, Longside, ii. 213.
Cairn-Geddes, in Arngask, i. 70.
Cairn-Glaschurn, height, Nairnshire, ii. 299.
Cairngorum, mountain, Kirkmiehael,ii. 116.
Cairn-Greg, Monifieth, ii. 264.
Cairn- Gregor, in Dunlichty, i. 274.
Cairn-gryffe, peak, Pettinain, ii. 372.
Cairnharrah, hill, Kirkcudbright, i. 54.
Cairn Hill, in Fetteresso, i. 427.
Cairn-Hill, Kirkmaiden, ii. 1 13.
Cairnhill, house, Craigie, i. 223.
Cairn Hills, Calder, i. 166, 167.
Cairnie, parish, Aberdeen and Banff, i. 165.
Cairnie, seat, Kilconquhar, ii. 29.
Cairn-Irenan, Killiernan, ii. 36.
Cairnkinnow, eminence, Penpont, ii. 356.
Cairnmonearn, hill, Durris, i. 344.
Cairnmore, farm, Logie-Coldstone, ii. 207-
Cairnmore, hill, Strathdon, ii. 512.
Cairnmuir House, Kirkurd, ii. 127.
Caimmure, in Caputb, i. 178.
Cairn-Naple, hill, Torphichen, ii. 552.
Cairnocay, mountains, Inveraven, i. 567.
Cairnpat, hill, Portpatrick, ii. 388.
Cairnrtam, village, Wigton, i. 166, 556.
Caim-Semblings, Kinnellar, ii. 85.
Cairnsmuir, house, Minnigaff, ii. 258.
Cairnsmuir, mountain, Carsphairn, i. 188.
Cairnsmuir, mountain, Kirkmabreck, ii. 111.
Cairntable, hill, Muirkirk, ii. 291.
Cairntaggart, hill, Glenmuick, i. 507.
Cairnton, Banchory-Ternan, i. 101.
Cairntoul, hill, Crathie, i. 229.
Cairnwilliam, hill, Moneymusk, ii. 275.
Cairston, in Stromness, Orkney, ii. 518.
Caitha, hamlet, Stow, ii. 504.
CAITHNESS-SHIRE, i. 166, 286.
Cakemuir, lands, Cramond, i. 228.
Calair, stream, Balquhidder, i. 99.
Calanish, in Uig, Ross and Cromarty, ii. 574.
Calehow, or Calkow. See Kelso.
Calda House, Assynt, i. 73.
Caldanach, lands, Luss, ii. 222.
Caldan Hill, St. Ninian's, ii. 319.
Calder, Inverness and Nairn. See Cawdor.
Calder, Lanark. See Cadder.
Calder, loch, Halkirk, i. 531 .
Calder, or Rotten Calder, river, Blantyre,
i. 136 ; East Kilbride, ii. 22.
Calder, river, Kingussie, ii. 81.
Calder, river, Lochwinnoch, ii. 201.
Calder Bank and Braes, village, Lanark,
i. 166, 545.
Calder-Comitis, Edinburgh, i. 166.
Calder, East. See Kirknewton.
Calder Grove, Cambuslang, i. 170.
Calder, Mid, parish, Edinburgh, 166.
Calder, North, river, Both well, i. 147, 148 ;
New Monkland, ii. 268.
Calder, South, river, Bothwell, i. 147, 148 ;
Cambusnethan, 170 ; Dalziel, 271.
Calder, West, parish, Edinburgh, i. 167.
Calder Works, Old Monkland, ii. 270.
Calderhall, seat, Kirknewton and East
Calder, ii. 120.
Calderside, Blantyre, i. 136.
Calderwood, East Kilbride, ii. 22, 23.
Caldham, Marykirk, ii. 235.
Caldra House, in Fogo, i. 435.
Caldron Linn, in Fossoway, i. 451.
Caldwell House, Bcith, i. 114.
Caledonian canal, Inverness-shire, i. 576.
604
Calf, isle, Argyll, i. 168.
Calf Sound, Eday, ii. 519.
Calgarry, creek, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii.
54.
Callader, loch, Crathie, i. 229.
Callander, parish, Perth, i. 168.
Callart, seat, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Callendar House, Falkirk, i. 413, 414, 415.
Callends, mansion, Newlands, ii. 311.
Callievar, mountain, Alford, Aberdeen, i. 35.
Callum's, hill, Crieff, i. 235.
Cally, mansion, Gatehouse of Fleet, i. 469,
474.
Cally, Wester, estate, Blairgowrie, i. 134.
Calrossie, seat, Logie Easter, ii. 208.
Calton, district, Glasgow, i. 168.
Calton Hill, Edinburgh, i. 373, 377, 378.
Calva, harbour, Eddrachillis, i. 360.
Calwattie, bay, Roseneath, ii. 427.
Cama, loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Cambo, lands, Kingsbarns, ii. 79.
Cambus, river, Kilmadock, ii. 38.
Cambus, village, Clackmannan, i. 169— i.
37, 38.
Cambus, Old. See Coclcburnspath.
Cambusbarron, village, Stirling, i. 169, ii.
321.
Cambuscurry, hill, Edderton,i. 359.
Cambuskenneth, village, Stirling, i. 169.
Cambuslang, parish, Lanark, i. 169.
Cambus-Michael, ancient parish, St. Mar-
tin's, ii. 233.
Cambusmore, Kilmadock, ii. 39.
Cambusnethan, parish, Lanark, i. 170.
Cambus-Wallaee, Biggar, i. 128.
Cambus- Wallace, house, Buchany, i. 158.
Camelon, village, Stirling, i. 171.
Cameron, parish, Fife, i. 171.
Cameron, in Bonhill, i. 141, ii. 222.
Cameron-Bridge, Markinch, ii. 232.
Camilla, mansion, and loch, Auchtertool, i.
81, 82.
Camisendun, bay, Durness, i. 343.
Camis-Eskan, estate, Cardross, i. 178.
Camistinavaig, loch, Portree, ii. 389.
Camlachie, village, near Glasgow, i. 172.
Camlodden, in Kilmichael-Glassary, ii. 47.
Cammusmore, bay, Kilmuir, ii. 53.
Campbell's Cairns, Knockando, ii. 136.
CAMPBELLTOWN, burgh, Argyll, i. 172.
Campbelton, village, Inverness, i. 174 — i.
63, 64.
Camp Castle, Roberton, ii. 422.
Camp Castle, fort, in Aberlemno, Forfar, i. 27-
Camperdown House, Liff and Benvie, ii.
179, 180.
Camp Field, Monymusk, ii. 275.
Campfield, residence, Kincardine O'Neil, ii.
70.
Camp Hill, in Yetholm, ii. 622.
Camphill, seat, Lumphanan, ii. 219.
Campie, seat, Inveresk, ii. 323.
Camp-Know, Blantyre, i. 136.
Cample, river, Morton, ii. 282.
Camp Muir, Langton, ii. 148.
Campmuir, hamlet, Forfar, i. 174, ii. 15.
Camps, Easter and Wester, lands, Carnock,
i. 184.
Campsaile, bay, Roseneath, ii. 427.
Campshead, in Crawford, i. 230.
Campsie, parish, Stirling, i. 174 — i. 92.
Campsie, Linn of, Cargill, i. 179.
Camptown, in Jedburgh, i. 588.
Camserney, Dull, i. 301.
Camster, hills, Wick, ii. 610.
Camstraddan, lands, Luss, ii. 222, 223.
Camus Stone, in Colinton, i. 210.
Camus-na-Gaul, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Camustane, hill, Monikie, ii. 264, 265.
Canaan House, Morningside, ii. 280.
Canaan Lodge, Morningside, ii. 280.
Candacraig House, Strathdon, ii. 513.
Cander, river, Dalserf, i. 269.
Candida Casa, Wigtonshire, ii. 605.
Candren Well, spring, Paisley, ii. 344.
Candy, burn, Biggar, i. 127.
Canisbay, parish, Caithness, i. 175.
Canna, isle, Argyll, i. 176, ii. 472,
Cannesburn, hamlet, Dumbartonshire, i.
176.
Cannich, river, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Cannisb, mountain, Assynt, i. 73.
Cannon Holes, St. Mungo, ii. 293.
Cannor, loch, Glenmuick, i. 508.
Canobie, or Canonbie, parish, Dumfries, i.
176, 530.
Canongate. See Edinburgh.
Cant, hill, Shotts, i. 119.
Cantly, lands, in Grange, i. 518.
Cantray, mansion, Croy and Dalcross, i. 243.
Cant's Kirk, Pitsligo, ii. 375.
Canty, bay, North Berwick, i. 123.
Cantyre, Argyllshire, i. 69, 89.
Cautyre, Mull of, Southend, ii. 476, 477.
Caolas Uist, in Harris, i. 536.
Caolchurn, castle, Glenorehy, i. 509.
Caolvallock, hamlet, Perthshire, i. 177.
Cape Orcas. See Orcas, Cape. And all
places having a similar distinguishing pre-
fix will be found under the proper name.
Capehope, stream, Hounam, i. 547.
Capenoch, estate, Keir, ii. 2.
Caplerig, mansion, Mearns, ii. 242.
Caprington, lands, Riecarton, ii. 420.
Caputh, parish, Perth, i. 177, 330.
Cara, Argyll. See Crigha and Cam.
Caraldstone, Forfar. See Careston.
Carberry, farm, Dysart, i. 349.
Carberry Hill, near Edinburgh, i. 364.
Carberry House, in Inveresk, i. 570.
Carbet, stream, Forfarshire, i. 441.
Carbeth, Strathblanc, ii. 511.
Carbost, in Bracadale, i. 151.
Carbrook House, Dunipaee, i. 327.
Carbuddo, old parish, Guthrie, i. 526.
Cardean, in Airlie, Forfar, i. 34.
Carden, Mill of, Premnay, ii. 392.
Cardinal's Steps, rocks, Kilrenny, ii. 60.
Cardon, in Broughton, i. 155.
Cardonald, mansion, Paisley, ii. 344.
Cardoness, house, Anwoth, Kirkcudbright,
i. 54.
Cardrona, house, Traquair, ii. 560.
Cardross, parish, Dumbarton, i. 178.
Cardross, seat, Port of Monteith, ii. 387-
Careston, parish, Forfar, i. 179.
Carfin, house, Bothwell, i. 148.
Carfrae, lands, Garvald and Bara, i. 407.
Cargen, estate, Troqucer, ii. 562.
Cargen Water, Lochrutton, ii. 199.
Cargill, parish, Perth, i. 179.
Carinish, in North Uist, ii. 575.
Carity, stream, Kirriemuir, ii. 131.
Carlaverock, Dumfries. See Caerlaverock.
Carleton, bay, Girvan, i. 475.
Carleton, castle, Colmonell, i. 214.
INDEX.
Carleton, mountain, Ayr, i. 89.
Carlines Cairn, mountain, i. 188.
Carlin-Skerry, isle, Orkney, i. 108.
Carlinwark, loch, Kelton, ii. 9.
Carlinwark, mansion, Kelton, ii. 9.
Carlogie House, in Aboyne, Aberdeen, i. 32.
Carlops, village, Peebles, i. 180, ii. 180'.
Carloway, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Carloway, in Uig, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
574.
Carlowrie, estate, Kirkliston, ii. 110.
Carluke, parish, Lanark, i. 180.
Carmacoup, seat, Douglas, i. 288.
Carman, hill, Cardross, i. 178.
Carmel, river, Kilmaurs, ii. 46.
Carmel-Bank, mansion, Kilmaurs, ii. 46.
Carmichael, parish, Lanark, i. 181.
Carmount, hill, Dunnottar, i. 336.
Carmunnock, pai'ish, Lanark, i. 182.
Carmyle, village, Lanark, i. 182.
Carmylie, parish, Forfar, i. 182.
Carna, isle, Morvern, ii. 283.
Carnac, fort, Dunbarny, i. 313.
Carnaig, stream, Dornoch, i. 286.
Carna-nam-Fiann, Rosskeen, ii. 431.
Carnassary, castle, Kilmartin, ii. 45.
Carna veran, hill, in Alford, Aberdeen, i. 36.
Carnbaddy, farm, Lumphanan, ii. 219.
Carnbee, parish, Fife, i. 183.
Carnbo, hamlet, Fossoway, i. 451.
Camduff, in Stewarton, ii. 489.
Carnegie, Forfarshire, i. 182.
Carnegie Hills, Renfrewshire, i. 489.
Carnie-Hill, village, Perthshire, i. 183.
Carnie Lodge, Cupar, i. 256.
Carniel Hill, Carnock, i. 184.
Carn-ma-Cheasog, cairn, Luss, ii. 222.
Carn-na-Cuimhne, in Crathie, i. 229.
Carnoch, district, Ross and Cromarty, i .184.
Carnock, parish', Fifej i. 184.
Carnock Park, St. Ninian's, ii. 320, 321.
Carnoustie, village, Forfar, i. 184 — i. 109.
Carnsalloch, estate, Kirkmahoe, ii. 112.
Carnwath, parish, Lanark, i. 185.
Carolina Park, Cramond, i. 227, 520.
Caroline-Place, hamlet, Perth, i. 186, ii.
234.
Carolside, in Earlstoun, i. 352.
Carpow, house, Abernethy, Perth, i. 29, 30.
Carr-Bridge, village, Inverness-shire, i. 345.
Carr Rock, Berwick-on-Tweed, i. 124.
Carradale, stream, Saddell and Skipness, ii.
446.
Carraig, rock, Lismore and Appin, ii. 189.
Carrick, castle, Lochgoilhead, ii. 196.
Carrick, district, Ayrshire, i. 89, ii. 240.
Carriden, parish, Linlithgow, i. 186.
Carrington, parish, Edinburgh, i. 186.
Carrol Rock, in Clyne, i. 204.
Carron, burn, Durisdeer, i. 342.
Can'on, hill, in Aberlour, Banff, i. 27.
Carron, loch, Lochearron, ii. 193.
Carron, river, Fetteresso, i. 426 ; Glenber-
vie, 501.
Carron, river, Kincardine, ii. 68.
Carron, river, Stirlingshire ; Camelon, i.
171 ; Denny, 278, 279 ; Falkirk, 415 ;
Fintry, 431 ; Grangemouth, 519.
Carron, village, Stirling, i. 187.
Carronbridge, village, Dumfries, i. 187.
Carron-Grove, in Denny, i. 278.
Carron Hall, Larbert, ii. 149.
Carronshore, village, Stirling, i. 187.
605
C'arroy, Loch, Duirinish, i. 299, 300.
Carruth, mansion, Kilmalcolm, ii. 39.
Carruthers, old parish, Middlebie, ii. 252.
Carry-Blair, in Edderton, i. 359.
Carsaig, in Kilfinichen and Kilviceuen, ii. 33.
Carsaig, bay, North Knapdale, ii. 134.
Carse, bay, Carsethorn, i. 187.
Carse, Hill of, Rescobie, ii. 417-
Carse-Bridge, in Alloa, i. 37, 38.
Carseburn, village, Forfar, i. 187.
Carsecreuch, castle, Old Luce, ii. 218.
Carsethorn, village, Kirkcudbright, i. 187,
ii. 96.
Carskey, bay, Southend, ii. 476.
Carskey, mansion, Southend, ii. 477-
Carslogie, mansion, Cupar, i. 256.
Carsphairn, parish, Kirkcudbright, i. 188.
Carstairs, parish, Lanark, i. 188.
Cart, Black, river, Lochwinnoch, ii. 201.
Cart, White, river ; Cathcart, i. 191, 192 ;
Paisley, ii. 341.
Carter Fell, hill, Roxburghshire, ii. 440.
Carterhope, farm, Tweedsmuir, ii. 5G8.
Carter-Town, in Hutton and Corrie, i. 555.
Cartland, village, Lanark, i. 189, ii. 142,
143.
Cartnavel, in Govan, i. 515.
Cartsburn, Renfrewshire, i. 489.
Cartsdyke, or Crawfurdsdyke, Greenock,
i. 189, 522, 523, 524.
Cartside Cottage, Cathcart, i. 192.
Carty. See Port-Carty.
Carvy, stream, Strathdon, ii. 512.
Carwood, in Biggar, i. 128.
Cary, ferry, in Abernethy, Perth, i. 29.
Caryle, old parish, Fife, i. 225.
Caskieben, house, Dyce, i. 346.
Cassencarrie, mansion, Kirkmabreck, ii. 111.
Cassilis, seat, Kirkmichael, ii. 1 15.
Cassley, stream, Criech, i. 234.
Castel-dun-Richuan, in Dores, i. 285.
Castle, in Gordon, Berwick, i. 512.
Castle, mount, Kirkurd, ii. 128.
Castle, village, Ayr, i. 189.
Castle Bay, Portpatrick, ii. 388.
Castlebay, Barra, i. 107.
Castle-Campbell, in Dollar, i. 283.
Castle-Carrick, Argyll, i. 69.
Castlecary-, village, Falkirk, i. 189, 415,
416, 530.
Castle Close, Dunkeld, Perth, i. 328.
Castle-Cluggy, Monivaird and Strowan, ii.
266.
Castle-Coeffin, Lismore and Appin, ii. 190.
Castle-Cole, in Clyne, i. 205.
Castle-Craig, Kirkmichael and Cullicudden,
ii. 118.
Castle-Craig, Kirkurd, ii. 127.
Castle-Craig, in Tillicoultry, ii. 541.
Castle-Craig, hill, West Calder, i. 168.
Castle-Craig, rocks, Nigg, ii. 319.
Castle-Craignish, Argyll, i. 224.
Castle-Douglas, burgh, Kirkcudbright, i.
189.
Castle Dykes, Carstairs, i. 188.
Castle-Dykes, Dumfries, i. 305, 306.
Castle-Dykes, entrenchment, Ruthven, ii.
443.
Castledykes, Kirkcudbright, ii. 103.
Castlefairn, stream, Glencairn, i. 502.
Castle-Forbes, Keig, ii. 1, 2.
Castle- Fraser, in Cluny, i. 204.
Castlegower, farm, Buittle, i. 159.
Castle-Grant, Cromdale, i. 239.
Castle-Grey, in Mid Calder, i. 167.
Castlehaven, in T arbat, ii. 529.
Castle-Hill, Aberdeen, archery at, i. 9 ;
barracks, 11.
Castle-Hill, Ardrossan, Ayr, i. 68.
Castle Hill, Campbelltown, i. 172.
Castle Hill, Clunie, i. 203.
Castle Hill, Cullen, i. 245.
Castle Hill, Culross, i. 246.
Castle Hill, Cupar, i. 255, 256.
Castle Hill, Dundee, i. 320.
Castle Hill, East Kilbride, ii. 23.
Castle Hill, Edinburgh, i. 373.
Castle Hill, Inchture, i. 560.
Castle Hill, Inverness, i. 576.
Castle Hill, Inverugie, Banff, i. 421.
Castle Hill, Kittoch-Side, ii. 133.
Castle Hill, Lanark, ii. 144.
Castle Hill, Lochmaben, ii. 197-
Castle Hill, New Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
Castle Hill, in Renfrew parish, ii. 414.
Castle Hill, Stirling, ii. 490, 491, 492.
Castle Hill, Strachan, ii. 505.
Castle Hill, Symington, ii. 526.
Castle Hill, Tamiadice, ii. 529.
Castlehill, in Birnie, i. 129.
Castlehill, in Cardross, i. 178.
Castlehill, Carluke, i. 181.
Castlehill, in Crimond, i. 236.
Castlehill, Olrick parish, ii. 328.
Castle Hills, mounds, West Kilbride, ii. 25.
Castle House, Dalmellington, i. 265.
Castle House, Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 337.
Castle-Huntly, lands, Longforgan, ii. 210,
211.
Castle Island, Kinross, ii. 90.
Castle-Kennedy, in Inch, i. 555, 556.
Castle Knap, Lunan, ii. 220.
Castle Law, in Abernethy, Perth, i. 29.
Castle Law, in Forgandenny, i. 443.
Castlelaw, in Yetholm, ii. 622.
Castlelaw, house, Glencross, i. 504.
Castlelaw, seat, Coldingham, i. 210.
Castle-Lenrick, seat, Perthshire, ii. 367.
Castle-Leod, mansion, Fodderty, i. 435.
Castle-Loan, Borrowstounness, i. 144.
Castle Loch, Lochmaben, ii. 198.
Castle-Mearnaig, Lismore and Appin, ii. 190.
Castlemilk, St. Mungo, ii. 293.
Castlemilk, estate, in Cai'munnock, i. 182.
Castle-Mairn, house, Eassie and Nevay, i.
354.
Castle-O'er, camp, Eskdalemuir, i. 407.
Castle-Quaw, stronghold, Lanark, ii. 144.
Castle- Rainy, in Turriff, ii. 565.
Castle-Rankine, glen, Denny, i. 278.
Castles, columns, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii.
55.
Castle- Semple, Lochwinnoch, ii. 201, 202.
Castleside, lands, Ashkirk, i. 72.
Castle-Stewart, Glasserton, i. 499.
Castle-Stewart, Penniughame, ii. 355.
Castle- Stuart, seat, Pettie, ii. 371-
Castle-Swein, North Knapdale, ii. 134.
Castle-Synniness, Old Luce, ii. 218.
Castleton, ancient palace, Muckart, ii. 288,
289.
Castleton, house, Fordoun, i. 437.
Castleton, parish, Roxburgh, i. 190.
Castle-Toward, Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 337.
Castletown, barony, Lochwinnoch, ii. 201.
Castletown, village, Aberdeen, i. 191.
INDEX.
Castletown, village, Caithness, i. 191.
Castle- Varrich, in Tongue, ii. 5-18, 550.
Castlewaws, farm, Lochwinnoch, ii. 203.
Castle- Wemyss, in Wemyss, Fife, ii. 597-
Castlewig, in Whithorn, i. 500, ii. 600.
Castramont, in Girthon, i. 474.
Cat Castle, in Stonehouse parish, ii. 500.
Caterthun, Brown, hill, Menmuir, ii. 247.
Caterthun, White, hill, Menmuir, ii. 247.
Catfrith Voe, in Tingwall, ii. 541.
Cathcart, parish, Renfrew, i. 191.
Cathcart, New, village, Renfrew, i. 192.
Catherine's, St., ancient parish, Penieuick,
ii. 352.
Catherine's, St., residence, Liberton, ii. 178.
Cathkin Hill, Carmunnock, i. 182.
Cathlaw, house, Torphiehen, ii. 553.
Catlaw, hill, Kingoldrum, ii. 78; Kirriemuir,
131.
Catrine, village, Ayr, i. 192.
Catrine-Bank, seat, Som, ii. 475.
Catseraig, St. Ninian's, ii. 320.
Cat-stane, monument, Kirkliston, ii. 109.
Cattepol, lands, Pettie, ii. 370.
Catter House, Kilmaronock, ii. 44.
Catterline, village, Kincardine, i. 193, ii.
84.
Cauldhame, hamlet, Perth, i. 193.
Cauldshiels, loch, near Galashiels, i. 459.
Causea, hill, Drainie, i. 290.
Causewayhead, village, near Stirling, i. 193.
Causeyside, village, Lanark, i. 193.
Cauvin's Hospital, Duddingston, i. 298.
Cava, islet, Orkney, i. 193, ii. 333.
Cavens, residence, Kirkbean, ii. 95 ; castle,
392.
Cavers, parish, Roxburgh, i. 193.
Cavers, seat, Bowden, i. 149.
Caverton, hill, Eckford, i. 357, 358.
Caverton, village, Roxburgh, i. 194.
Cawdor, parish, Inverness and Nairn, i.
194— i. 82.
Cawpla, loch, Neilston, ii. 300.
Ceanloeh, rivulet, Uig, ii. 573.
Ceannabinn, mountain, Durness, i. 342.
Ceann-a-Mhara, hill, Tiree, ii. 544.
Ceannard, Loch, Dull, i. 301.
Ceannard, river, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Ceannchruinn, river, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Ceathramh-garbh, in Eddrachillis, i. 3G0.
Ceilltarraglan, Portree, ii. 388.
Cellardykes, Kilrenny, ii. 60.
Celurca, Montrose, ii. 272.
Ceres, bum, Ceres, i. 195 ; Kemback, ii. 10.
Ceres, parish, Fife, i. 194.
Cessford, castle, Eckford, i. 357, 358.
Cessford, village, Roxburgh, i. 195.
Cessnock, house, Galston, i. 461.
Cessnock, river, Riccarton, ii. 420.
Chance-Inn, in Inverkeillor, i. 571.
Chance-Inn, village, Fife, i. 195.
Chanlock, hill, Penpont, ii. 35C.
Ciiannelkirk, parish, Berwick, i. 196.
Channerwick, in Dunrossness, Shetland, ii.
452.
Chanonry, Ross and Cromarty. See Fort-
rose.
Chaolain, stream, Inverchaolain, i. 568.
Chaolis-port, loch, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Chapel, in Ferryport-on-Craig, i. 422.
Chapel, farm, Kelso, ii. 239.
Chapel, village, Fife, i. 196.
Chapel Burn, in Crawford, i. 230.
606
Chapel Burn, Larbert, ii. 149.
Chapelburn, in Dalserf, i. 269.
Chapelden, in Aberdour, Aberdeen, i. 23.
Chapelgill, in Broughton, i. 155.
Chapel-Green, Kilsyth, ii. 63.
Chapelhall, village, Lanark, i. 196 — i. 148,
545.
Chapel Haugh, Whittingham, ii. 608.
Chapel Hill, in Culter, i. 248.
Chapel Hill, in Flisk, i. 433.
Chapel Hill, Kirkmahoe, ii. 112.
Chapel Hill, Logie Easter, ii. 208.
Chapel-Hill, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59.
Chapel Hill, in Tarbat, ii. 529.
Chapelhill, Moneydie, ii. 263.
Chapelhill, farm, Roberton, ii. 422.
Chapelhill, hamlet, Perth, i. 196.
Chapelhope, farm, Ettrick, i. 408.
Chapel House, in Dunlop, i. 333.
Chapelknowe, hamlet, Halfmorton, i. 530.
Chapel of Garioch. See Garioch.
Chapel Park, Ladykirk, ii. 581.
Chapelrossan, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Chapelshade, Dundee, i. 317, 319.
Chapelton, in Inveraven, i. 568.
Chapelton, Marnoch, ii. 232.
Chapelton, farm, Stewarton, ii. 489.
Chapelton, hamlet, Kirkcudbright, i. 196.
Chapelton, village, Cambuslang, Lanark,
196— i. 170.
Chapelton, village, in Glasford, Lanark,
196, 500.
Chapelton of Boysack, hamlet, Forfar,
196, 571.
Chapeltown, hamlet, Killiernan, ii. 36.
Chapel Well, Kirkmichael, ii. 115.
Chapel Well, Rothes, ii. 432.
Charleston, village, Fife, i. 196, 323, 324.
Charleston, village, Forfar, i. 197-
Charleston, village, Nigg, ii. 318.
Charlestown, hamlet, Ross and Cromarty,
i. 197, ii. 137.
Charlestown, village, Aberdeen, i. 197 — i.
31, 32.
Charlestown, village, Aberlour, i. 197-
Charleton, seat, Kilconquhar, ii. 29.
Charnan, loch, South Uist, ii. 576.
Charter Hall, in Fogo, i. 435.
Charters' Chests, near Charlestown, i. 191.
Chartreshall, hamlet, St. Ninian's, ii. 321.
Cheese Bay, in North Uist, ii. 574.
Chenzie, island, Islay, Argyll, ii. 385.
Cherry-Bank, village, Perth, i. 197.
Cherry-Trees, vale, Yetholm, ii. 621.
Chester Hill, Manor parish, ii. 230.
Chester House, Hounam, i. 548.
Chesterhall House, Cramond, i. 228.
Chesterhill, village, Edinburgh, i. 197.
Chesters, in Fogo, Berwick', i. 436.
Chesters, fortification, Kirkurd, ii. 128.
Chesters, mansion, in Ancrum, Roxburgh,
i. 44.
Chesters, village, Roxburgh, i. 197.
Cheviot Hills, Morebattle and Mow, ii. 278.
Cheyne's Tower, St. Fergus, i. 422.
Chicken Heads,headlands, Stornoway,Lewis,
ii. 502.
Chipperkyle, mansion, Kirkpatrick-Durham,
ii. 122.
Chirnside, parish, Berwick, i. 197.
Chirsty's Rock, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii.
55.
Chisholme, mansion, Roberton, ii. 422.
Chlachdhian, in Abernethy, Elgin, i. 28.
Choaric, isle, Durness, i. 343.
Choice Lee, Langton, ii. 148.
Chon, Loch, Aberfoyle, Perth, i. 25.
Chorey, Loch, Lismore and Appin, ii. 189.
Christie's Hole, Papa-Stour, Shetland, ii. 346.
Christ's- Kirk, ancient parish, Kinnethmont,
ii. 86.
Chryston, village, Lanark, i. 198 — i. 164.
Cill Andreas, Blair- Atholl, i. 133.
Clach-a-Charridh, obelisk, Nigg parish, ii.
461.
Claeh-a-mhoid, Little Dunkeld, i. 332.
Clachan, Kilmorie, ii. 52.
Ciachan, hamlet, Penninghame, ii. 355.
Clachan, sound, Kilbrandon and Kilchattan,
ii. 19.
Clachan, valley, Farr, i. 418.
Clachan, village, Campsie, i. 198 — i. 1 75.
Clachan, village, Fintry, i. 431.
Clachan, village, Lismore and Appin, ii. 190.
Clachan Bridge, Kilbrandon and Kilchattan,
ii. 20.
Clachan House, Roseneath, ii. 428.
Clachan, St. John's, village, Kirkcudbright,
i. 198.
Clachan-Seil, bay, Kilninver and Kilmel-
ford, ii. 56.
Clachdhian, rock, Kirkmichael, ii. 116.
Claelmabane, hill, Kincardineshire, ii. 71.
Clachnaharry, village, Inverness, i. 198.
Clach na Seanaish, in Croy and Dalcross, i.
243.
Clachnatum, in Crathie, i. 229.
Clackmannan, i. 198.
CLACKMANNANSHIRE, i. 199, ii. 91.
Claigean, bay, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Clairtown, St., village, Fife, i. 200.
Clamshell Cave, Island of Staffa, ii. 483.
Clans, Loch of the, Nairnshire, ii. 299.
Clanyard, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Claonaig, stream, Saddell and Skipness, ii.
446.
Clarebrand, hamlet, Kirkcudbright, i. 200.
Clarencefield, village, Dumfries, i. 200.
Clarkhill, in Farr, i. 419.
Clarkston, district, Lanark, i. 200.
Clarkston, village, Renfrew, i. 200.
Clary, lands, Penninghame, ii. 354, 355.
Clashbennie, in Errol, i. 404.
Clashcamach, in Durness, i. 343.
Clashmore, in Dornoch, i. 286.
Clashnessie, village, Sutherland, i. 200, ii.
499.
Clatchard Crag, hill, in Abdie, Fife, i. 2, 3.
Clathick, mansion, Monivaird and Strowan,
ii. 267.
Clathy, village, Perth, i. 200.
Claton Forest, Oathlaw, ii. 325.
Clatt, parish, Aberdeen, i. 200.
Clattering Briggs, in Fordoun, i. 436.
Clatto Hill, Kemback, ii. 10.
Clatto Hill, Mains and Strathmartine, ii.
229.
Clatto, lands, Kettle, ii. 16.
Claverhouse, residence, Mains and Strath-
martine, ii. 229.
Clavin, hills, Dundonald, i. 320.
Claybarns, village, Edinburgh, i. 201.
Clayhole, village, Leswalt, ii. 172.
Clay House, Lanarkshire, i. 489.
Clayhouse, village, Edinburgh, i. 201.
Claymires, Kippen, ii. 95.
INDEX.
Clayshank, aucient parish, Stonevkirk, ii.
501.
Clayslap, village, Lanark, i. 201.
Cleghoru, rock, Lanark, ii. 143 ; house, 144,
146.
Cleish, parish, Kinross, i. 201.
Cleland, house, Bothwell, i. 148.
Clement, St., parish. See Aberdeen.
Clerkington, house, Haddington, i. 528.
Clerkington, manor, Temple, ii. 534.
Clermiston, mansion, Corstorphine, i. 218.
Clett, isle, Sutherland, i. 202.
Cleugh, bum, Carnwath, i. 185.
Cleugh, burn, Sorn parish, ii. 475.
Cleughbrae, hamlet, Dumfries, i. 202.
Cleughorn Lodge, East Kilbride, ii. 23.
Cliff Hills, in Bressay, i. 162.
Cliff, loch, Unst, ii. 578, 579.
Cliff Sound, Bressay, i. 153, 162.
Cliffdale, residence, Shapinshay, ii. 462.
Clifton, village, Perth, i. 202.
Clifton Hall, estate, Kirkliston, ii. 110.
Clifton Hill, Morebattle and Mow, ii. 278.
Clifton Park, Linton, ii. 187.
Climpy, hamlet, Lanark, i. 202 — i. 185.
Clints of Drumore, hills, Kirkmabreck, ii.
111.
Clippens House, Kilbarchan, ii. 17-
Clober, in New Kilpatrick, ii. 58, 258.
Clochnabane, hill, Strachan, ii. 504.
Clochoderick, farm, Kilbarchan, ii. 17-
Cloghill, residence, Newhills, ii. 310.
Cloncaird, lands, Kirkmiehael, ii. 115.
Clonelaugh, Kirkmiehael, ii. 115.
Closeburn, parish, Dumfries, i. 202.
Closs, farm, Hutton and Corrie, i. 554.
Closters, burn, Olrick, ii. 329.
Clouden, burn, Dunscore, i. 338.
Clounie, loch, Glenshiel, i. 510.
Clova, Forfar. See Cortaclty.
Clova, Kildrummy, ii. 31,
Cloven Hills, in Forres, i. 445.
Cloven Stone, rock, Moy and Dalrossie, ii .
286.
Cluden, Holywood, i. 546, 547-
Cluden, river, Kirkpatrick-Irongray, ii. 124.
Clun of Newbigging, Carnock, i. 184.
Clune, in Auldearn, i. 82.
Chine, lands, Carnock, i. 184.
Cluney, river, Crathie and Braemar, i. 229.
Clunie, bleachfield, in Abernethy, Perth, i.
29.
Clunie, parish, Perth, i. 203, ii. 364.
Cluny, Auchterderran, i. 78.
Cluny, forest, Blairgowrie, i. 134.
Cluny, house, Dull, i. 301.
Cluny, mansion, Marnoch, ii. 233.
Cluny, parish, Aberdeen, i. 204.
Cluny Castle, Laggan, ii. 1 40.
Cluny Water, Charlestown, i. 191.
Cluthie, rivulet, Kilmany, ii. 41.
Clyde, river, Lanarkshire, ii. 143, 145 ; —
Bothwell, i. 147, 148 ; Cambuslaug, 170 ;
Crawford, 230 ; Dalserf, 269 ; Glasgow,
483, 488 ; Hamilton, 534 ; Pettinain, ii.
372 ; Renfrew, 413.
Clyde Iron- works, Old Monkland, ii. 270.
Clydesdale. See Lanarkshire.
Cltne, parish, Sutherland, i. 204.
Clyth, Latheron, ii. 155.
Clyth, East, Latheron, ii. 155.
Clyth Ness, headland, Latheron, ii. 154,
155.
607
Clythe, Easter, in Kildonan, ii. 30.
Cnoc, hill, Glenmuick, i. 507.
Cnoc-an-t-Sabhal, hill, Edderton. i. 359.
Cnoek-a-Chath, hill, Lairg, ii. 140.
Coalhill, village, Argyll, i. 205 — i. 174.
Coalsnaughton, village, Clackmannan, i.
205, ii. 541.
Coalston, house, Haddington, i. 528.
Coalton, village, Fife, 205.
Coaltown, East, village, Fife, i. 205.
Coaltown, West, village, Fife, i. 205.
Coaltown of Balgonie, village, Fife, i. 205.
Coalyburn, Linton, ii. 186.
Coalyland, village, Clackmannan, i. 205 — ■
i. 38.
Coatbridge, village, Lanark, i. 205, ii. 270.
Coat Castle, in Stonehouse parish, ii. 500.
Coatdyke, village, Old Monkland, i. 205.
Coates, lands, Edinburgh, i. 373.
Coates, Lower, in Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Coates, West, residence, Newburn, ii. 309.
Coatt, farm, Eskdalemuir, i. 407.
Cubairdy, house, Forgue, i. 444.
Coblehaugh, in Forteviot, i. 447.
Cochno, seat, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59.
Cock of Arran, Buteshire, i. 71.
Coekairney, house, Dalgety, i. 261.
Cockburn Law, Dunse, i. 339, 340.
Cockburnspath, parish, Berwick, i. 205.
Cockenzie, village, HaddingtoD, i. 206; ii.
558, 559.
Cocklaw, farm, Walston, ii. 591.
Cocklaw, hill, Yetholm, ii. 621.
Cocklerue, hill, Linlithgow, ii. 183, 184,
552.
Cockpen, parish, Edinburgh, i. 207.
Cockpool, in Ruthwell, ii. 444.
Cockston, farm, Gartly, i. 4G6.
Coe, stream, Glencoe, i. 502, ii. 189.
Cogrieburn-Bridge, Johnstone, i. 590.
Coigach, barony, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Coila, river, Ochiltree, ii. 326.
Coiltie, stream, Urquhart, ii. 582.
Coinich, stream, Lismore and Appin, ii. 189.
Coir-na-Fearn, loch, Farr, i. 418.
Colbanstoun, old parish, Lanark, i. 220.
Coldhome, Rothiemay, ii. 435.
Coldingham, parish, Berwick, i. 207 — i. 89,
90.
Coldon, lands, Kinross, ii. 91.
Coldran, lands, Gartly, i. 466.
COLDSTREAM, burgh, Berwick, i. 209.
Coles Castle, Sutherland, ii. 523.
Coley, rock, Gamrie, i. 46 1 .
Colfargie, in Abernethy, Perth, i. 29.
Colgrain, in Cardross, i. 178.
Colgrave Sound, in Shetland, i. 423.
Coligarth, district, Lady parish, Orkney, ii.
138.
Coliness, Lady parish, Orkney, ii. 138.
Colinsburgh, town, Fife, i. 210.
Colinton, parish, Edinburgh, i. 210.
Colipool, village, Kilbrandon and Kilchat-
tan, ii. 20.
Coll, Argyll. See Tiree.
Coll, Upper and Nether, rivers, Lewis, ii.
502.
Coll House, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii. 55.
Collace, parish, Perth, i. 211.
Collairney, house, Dunbog, i. 315.
College, in Fraserburgh, i. 455.
College, The, Pencaitland, ii. 352.
College of Roseisle, hamlet, Elgin, i. 212.
Collelo hills, Aberdour, Fife, i. 24.
Collennan, in Duudonald, i. 320.
Collessie, parish, Fife, i. 212.
Collieston, village, Aberdeen, i. 213.
Collin, mansion, Rerwiek, ii. 416.
Collin, village, Dumfries, i. 213, ii. 555.
Collinswell, house, Burntisland, i. 161.
Colliston, seat, St. Vigeau's, ii. 587.
Collistonmill, hamlet, Forfar, i. 213.
Colluthie, in Moonzie parish, ii. 277-
Colm, St., isle, Lochs parish, ii. 199.
Colm, St., village. See Combs, St.
Colme, St., house, in Dalgety, i. 261.
Colmelhe, in Edzell, i. 396.
Colmes, St., old parish, Cross and Burness,
i. 240.
Colmkill, loch, Skye, ii. 467.
Colmonell, parish, Ayr, i. 213.
Colosnia, Lanark, ii. 141.
Colonsay, isle, Argyll, i. 214.
Colonsay, Little, isle, Argyll, i. 214.
Colquhalzie, seat, Trinity-Gask, i. 469.
Colquoich, farm, Inveraven, i. 568.
Colsay, isle, Argyll, i. 214.
Coltfield, hamlet, Elgin, i. 214.
Coltness, in Cambusnethan, i. 171, ii- 489.
Coltsbridge, Edinburghshire, i. 218.
Colvend and Southwick, parish, Kirkcud-
bright, i. 214.
Colzium Castle, Kilsyth, ii. 63.
Comaraich, ancient parish, Ross and Cro-
marty, i. 54.
Combs, St., village, Aberdeen, i. 215, ii. 214.
Comely-Bank, village, Roxburgh, i. 215.
Comes, well, in Alvah, Banff, i. 41.
Comiston, near Edinburgh, i. 211, 378.
Comlongan, castle, Ruthwell, ii. 444, 445.
Common Hill, Rothesay, ii. 434.
Common Myre, lands, Edinburgh, i. 362.
Commonty of Sound, Lerwick, ii. 188.
Comore, reservoir, Neilston, ii. 300.
Compston, house, Twynholm, ii. 569.
Comrie, barony, Weem, ii. 595.
Comrie, parish, Perth, i. 215.
Conait, falls, Fortingal, i. 448.
Conan, estate, Urquhart, ii. 584.
Conan, river, Urquhart and Logie Wester,
ii. 584.
Conanbridge, village, Ross and Cromarty,
i. 210.
Conansythe, in Carmylie, i. 183.
Condie, Forgandeuny, i. 443.
Condorat, village, Dumbarton, i. 216.
Conerock, eminence, Rothes, ii. 432.
Conglass, glen, Kirkniichael, ii. 116.
Conglens, lands, Luss, ii. 222.
Conicaval, haniiet, Edinkillie, i. 393.
Coniglen, vale, Southend, ii. 477.
Coniugsburgh, Shetland. See Gunningsbwgh.
Co.n'nage, village, Inverness, i. 216, ii. 370,
371.
Connel, loch, Kirkeolm, ii. 99.
Connel Ferry, Argyll, i. 61, 62.
Conney Park, Kilsyth, ii. 63.
Conry, stream, Strathdon, ii. 512.
Content, village, St. Quivox, ii. 399, 588.
Contin, parish, Ross and Cromarty, i. 216.
Conval Hills, East and West, Banff, i. 27.
Conveth, Laurencekirk, ii. 157.
Convinth, ancient parish, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Cookney, in Fctteresso, i. 426.
Coom, hill, Roberton, ii. 422.
Coomb's, St., Kirk, Olrick, ii. 329.
INDEX.
Copay, isle, Inverness, i. 217-
Cope's Well, Crieff, i. 23G.
Copixshay, island, Orkney, i. 217-
Coquet, river, Oxnam, ii. 335.
Corafuar, hill, Dumbartonshire, i. 304.
Corb, in Myth, Perth, i. 43.
Corhet-House Tower, Morebattle and Mow,
ii. 278.
Corbie, burn, Inverarity, i. 565.
Corbie Hall, farm, Carstairs, i. 188.
Corehinan, burn, Auchindoir, i. 75.
Core, stream, Tweedsmuir, ii. 568.
Core-Elian, isle, South Knapdale, ii. 134. ^
Coreen, in Tullynessle and Forbes, i. 75, ii.
564.
Corehouse, Lanark, ii. 143.
Corfhouse, bay, Kintail, ii. 92.
Corfurrach, Rathven, ii. 406.
Corhabbie Hills, Mortlaeh, ii. 280.
Coria, town of the Damnii, i. 188.
Corinachencher, bay, Torosay, ii. 551.
Corkendale-law, hill, Neilston, ii. 300.
Cormilligan, hill, Tynron, ii. 570.
Cormiston, lands, Libberton, ii. 177.
Cormorant's Cave, Staffa, ii. 483.
Cornal Tower, Moffat, ii. 261.
Corncairn, village, Banff, i. 217-
Corncockle Muir, in Lochmaben, i. 55.
Cornhill, village, Banff, i. 217-
Cornie, river, in Abercorn, Linlithgow, i. 3,
4.
Corodale, in South Uist, ii. 576.
Corpach, village, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Corpach Ferry, Kilmahe, ii. 40.
Corrachree, seat, Logie-Coldstone, ii. 207-
Corra Lin, Lanark, ii. 143.
Corral, burn, Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Corran, stream, Jura, i. 591.
Corran Ferry, Argyll, i. 66.
Corran- Ardgour, bay, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Corranie, mountain, Cluny, i. 204.
Corrennie Hill, Tough, ii. 556.
Corrichie, How of, Banchory-Ternan, i. 100.
Corrie, Dumfries. See Hutton mid Corrie.
Corrie, bay, Kilbride, ii. 21, 22.
Corrie, stream, Dryfesdale, i. 296.
Corrie, village, Arran, i. 217-
Corriedow, cave, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Corries, excavations, Killearn, ii. 35.
Corrisel, seat, Penningbame, ii. 355.
Corrody Hills, in Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Corrybrough, mansion, Moy and Dalrossie,
ii. 287.
Corrymony, in Urquhart and Glenmorris-
ton, ii. 582, 583.
Corsancone, hill, New Cumnock, i. 253.
Corsbie, lands, Legerwood, ii. 160 ; lake,
161.
Corsbie, seat, Penninghame, ii. 355.
Corse, Coull, i. 219, 220.
Corse, house, Forgue, i. 444.
Corsehill, in Stewarton, ii. 488, 489.
Corsikill Park, in Innerwiek, i. 563.
Corsindae, mansion, Midmar, ii. 254.
Corsock, hamlet, Kirkcudbright, i. 217-
Corsock, lake, Parton, ii. 347 5 house, 347-
Corsock, Nether, Parton, ii. 347.
Corstorphine, parish, Edinburgh, i. 217,
369.
Corswall Castle, Kirkcolm, ii. 99.
Cortachy and Clova, parish, Forfar, i. 218.
Cortes, lands, Rathen, ii. 402, 403.
Coruisk, loch, Skye, ii. 467.
608
Corwar, seat, Colmonell, i. 213.
Corymulzie Cottage, in Crathie, i. 229.
Coryvreckan, gulph, Scarba isle, Argyll, ii.
455.
Coshieville, in Dull, i. 301.
Cossins, castle, Glammis, i. 478.
Costa, headland, Evie and Rendall, i. 408.
Costerton House, Fala and Soutra, i. 142.
Cotburn, hills, Turriff, ii. 566.
Cotchet Ridge, Eccles, i. 355.
Cote, loch, Torphichen, ii. 552.
Cotes, East and West, villages, Lanark, i.
205.
Cothal, in Fintray, i. 430.
Cothiemuir, hill, Keig, ii. 2.
Cot-hill, loch, Slains and Forvie, ii. 468.
Cothill, Lunan, ii. 220.
Cottack, village, Dumfries, i. 219.
Cottlehill, in Aberdour, Fife, i. 24.
Cotton, village, Aberdeen, ii. 617.
Cotton Hill, in Deskford, i. 279.
Cotton of Lownie, village, Forfar, i. 219.
Cot-town, hamlet, Perth, i. 219.
Cot-town of Gardyne, village, Kirkden, ii.
105.
Cotts, lake, Urquhart, ii. 581.
Cotty, burn, Cramond, I. 228.
Coul, mansion, Contin, i. 217.
Coulalt, loch, Knockando, ii. 136.
Coulard, hill, Drainie, i. 290.
Coull, parish, Aberdeen, i. 219.
Coullin, range of hills, Bracadale, i. 151.
Coulmony House, seat, in Ardclach, Nairn,
i. 63.
Coulter, loch, St. Ninian's, ii. 320.
Coultry Hill, Balmerino, i. 98.
Countesswells, mansion, Peterculter, ii. 368.
Coupar-Angus, Forfar. See Cupar-Angas.
Coursington, in Dalziel, i. 271.
Court Hill, Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Courthill, Lunan, ii. 220.
Court Hilloch, in Bellie, i. 116.
Cove, South Knapdale, ii. 135.
Cove, bay, Cockburnspath, i. 206.
Cove, mansion, Kirkpatrick-Fleming, ii. 124.
Cove, village, Aberdeen, i. 220.
Cove, Black and White, caverns, Rerwick,
ii. 417.
Covesea, hamlet, Drainie, i. 290.
Covington and Thankeston, parish, La-
nark, i. 220.
Cowal, district, Argyll, i. 69, 162.
Cowbog, in Aberdour, Aberdeen, i. 23.
Cowbrae Hill, Borthwick, i. 145.
Cowcaddens, village, near Glasgow, i. 220.
Cowden, near Dalkeith, i. 262, 263.
Cowden-Beath, village, Fife, i. 220.
Cowdenknows, estate, Earlstoun, i. 352.
Cowglen, in Eastwood, i. 354.
Cowhill, in Holywood, i. 546.
Cowhill, in Whitburn, ii. 603.
Cowie, lordship, Fetteresso, i. 425, 426.
Cowie, village, Kincardine, i. 220.
Cowpits, village, Edinburgh, i. 221, 570.
Cowshaven, cave, in Aberdour, Aberdeen,
i. 22.
Cowsland, village, Edinburgh, i. 221, 228.
Cowthalley, castle, Carnwath, i. 185.
Coxton Tower, in St. Andrew's, Elgin, i.
50.
Coyl, river, Coylton, i. 221.
Coylton, parish, Ayr, i. 221.
Crachie, stream, Redgorton, ii. 411.
Craftaramie, Kilmaronock, ii, 44.
Cragerachan, height, Nairnshire, ii. 299.
Cragganester, hamlet, Perth, i. 222.
Craggantoul, hamlet, Perth, i. 222.
Craggy, loch, Lairg, ii. 141.
Craggy, loch, Tongue, ii. 548.
Cragie House, Newton-upon-Ayr, ii. 314.
Cragleith, isle, North Berwick, i. 123.
Crag-Ower, height, Nairnshire, ii. 299.
Crag Tower, Oxnam, ii. 336.
Craibstone, residence, Newhills, ii. 310.
Craichie, village, Forfar, i. 222.
Craickmoor, hill, Roberton, ii. 422.
Craig, Auchindoir, i. 75.
Craig, in Dundee, i. 317.
Craig, hill, Kirkmabreck, ii. 111.
Craig, house, Balmaclellan, i. 96.
Craig, mansion, Kilmaurs, ii. 46.
Craig, parish, Forfar, i. 222.
Craig, rivulet, Balmaclellan, i. 95.
Craig of Madderty, Perth, i. 223.
Craigaehaoineadh, Kincardine, ii. 68.
Craigallion, loch, Strathblane, ii. 511.
Craigandarroch, hill, Glenmuick, i. 507.
Craigan-roy, bay, Glenshiel, i. 510.
Craigbarnet, house, Campsie, i. 175.
Craigbeg, St. Ninian's, ii. 320.
Craigberg, hill, Durris, i. 344.
Craig-Caffie, castle, Inch, i. 556.
Craig-Chailleach, Killin, ii. 37.
Craigerook, house, Cramond, i. 227-
Craigdallie, hamlet, Perth, i. 223.
Craigdam, in Tarves, ii. 533.
Craigdarroch, Glencairn, i. 502.
CraigdaiToch, mansion, Contin, i. 217.
Craig-David, Kinneff, i. 121, ii. 84.
Craig-Dhereag, hill, Port of Monteitb, ii.
387.
Craig-Dhu, hill, Port of Monteith, ii. 387.
Craigdhuloch, hill, Glenmuick, i. 508.
Craigdow, hill, Kirkoswald, ii. 120.
Craig-Ellachie, bridge, Banffshire, i. 27.
Craig-Ellachie, Lower, rock, Rothes, ii. 432.
Craigellie, estate, Lonmay, ii. 214.
Craigencallie, Minnigaff, ii. 257.
Craigend, in Muiravonside, ii. 290.
Craigend, St. Ninian's, ii. 320.
Craigend, hamlet, Perth, i. 223.
Craigend, hill, Lanark, ii. 143.
Craigend, loch, Newabbey, ii. 303 ; farm,
304.
Craigend, village, Lanark, i. 223.
Craigend, village, Dunbarny, i. 313.
Craigend Castle, in Strathblane, ii. 511.
Craigends, mansion, Kilbarehan, ii. 17.
Craigenfeoch, Paisley, ii. 342.
Craigengelt, lands, St. Ninian's, ii. 322.
Craigenscore, hill, Glenbucket, i. 501.
Craigflower, house, Torryburn, ii. 554.
Craigfoodie, Dairsie, i. 260.
Craigforth, mansion, St. Ninian's, ii. 321.
Craig-Gibbon, Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Craighall, castle, Rattray, ii. 406, 407.
Craighall, old seat, Ceres, i. 195.
Craighall, village, Ayr, i. 223.
Craighall, village, Edinburgh, i. 223.
Craighall, New, village, Edinburgh, i. 223,
570.
Craighead, in Campsie, i. 175.
Craighead, in Crawfordjohn, i. 231.
Craighead, in Dailly, i. 259.
Craighead House, Shotts, i. 119.
Craigh-Hcad, Kilwinning, ii. 66.
INDEX.
Craighouse, village, Jura, i. 591.
Craigie, forest, Fetteresso, i. 425.
Craigie, hamlet, Perth, i. 223.
Craigie, mansion, St. Quivox, ii. 399.
Craigie, village, Linlithgow, i. 223, 265.
Craigie, village, Perth, i. 223.
Craigie and Barnweill, parish, Ayr, i. 223.
Craigieburn, Moffat, ii. 201.
Craigie, hill, Leuchars, ii. 175.
Craigiehill, in Riccarton, ii. 420.
Craigielands, village, Kirkpatrick-Juxta, i.
224, ii. 125.
Craigievar, estate, Leochel and Cushnie, ii.
166.
Craigingar, in Dunsyre, i. 341.
Craiglaw House, Kirkowan, ii. 121.
Craigleith, rock, in Alva, Stirling, i. 40.
Craig-Lockhart, Colinton, i. 211.
Craiglusear, hill, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Craiglush, loch, Caputh, i. 177.
Craigmaddie, loch, Strathblane, ii. 511.
Craigmaddie, seat, Baldernock, i. 92.
Craigman, in New Cumnock, i. 253.
Craigmile, seat, Kincardine O'Neil, ii. 70.
Craigmill, estate, Dallas, i. 263.
Craigmill, hamlet, Logie, i. 224, ii. 205.
Craigmillar, castle, Liberton, ii. 177.
Craigmoni, eminence, Urquhart, ii. 583.
Craigmuie, Bahnaclellan, i. 96.
Craignair Hill, Buittle, i. 159.
Craignaught, hill, Dunlop, i. 332.
Craigneil, castle, Colmonell, i. 214.
Craignethan Castle, Lesmahago, ii. 172.
Craigneuk, village, Lanark, i. 224.
Craignish, parish, Argyll, i. 224.
Craigniston, burn, Fordoun, i. 436.
Craignuire, bay, Torosay, ii. 551.
Craigo, village, Forfar, i. 225, ii. 208, 209.
Craig-Obney, in Auchtergaven, i. 78, 79.
Craigoch, burn, Portpatrick, ii. 388.
Craig-Owl, in Tealing, ii. 533.
Craig-Phadric, Inverness, i. 576, 578.
Craig-Rossie, hill, Auchterarder, i. 77.
Craigrothie, village, Fife, i. 225.
Craigruigh, hill, Balquhidder, i. 99.
Craigs of Coyl, in Coylton, i. 221.
Craigsanquhar, house, Fife, i. 428.
Craig-Sparrow, hill, Newburgh, ii. 308.
Craigston Castle, King-Edward parish, ii. 75.
Craigton, village, Forfar, i. 225.
Craigton-Field, village, Dumbarton, i. 225.
Craigvinian, hill, Little Dunkeld, i. 331.
Craigwater, stream, Rhynie and Essie, ii.
419.
Craigwood, in Dunkeld, i. 330.
Craig-y-barns, Dunkeld, i. 329, 330.
Craiksland, in Dundonald, i. 320.
Crail, burgh, Fife, i. 225.
Crailing, parish, Roxburgh, i. 226.
Crakaig, bay, Kilninian, ii. 577-
Crakaig, mansion, Loth parish, ii. 215.
Crammag, headland, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Cramond, parish, Edinburgh, i. 226.
Crane, loch, Dunsyre, i. 341.
Crane, loch, Kirkmichael, ii. 117-
Crannich, district, Weem, ii. 595.
Cranshaws, parish, Berwick, i. 227-
Cranstackie, mountain, Durness, i. 342.
Cranston, parish, Edinburgh, i. 228-
Cranston Hill, near Glasgow, i. 484, 486.
Cranston-Ridel, Edinburgh, i. 228.
Crarie-Knoll, in Durisdeer, i. 342.
Crathes Castle, Banchory-Ternan, i, 101.
Vol. I.— 609
Crathie and Braemar, parish, Aberdeen, i.
228.
Craw Hill, in Torphichen, ii. 553.
Crawford, parish, Lanark, i. 230.
Crawpordjohn, parish, Lanark, i. 230.
Crawfordston, Tarbolton, Ayr, ii. 631.
Crawfurd Priory, Cults, i. 249.
Crawfurdland Castle, Kilmarnock, ii. 43.
Crawfurdsburn House, Greenock, i. 525.
Crawfurd's-dyke, Renfrew. See Cartsdykc.
Crawick, stream, Sanquhar, i. 231.
Crawickbridge, hamlet, Dumfries, i. 231.
Crawickmill, village, Dumfries, i. 231, ii.
453.
Crawknowes, farm, Johnstone, i. 590.
Crawley, spring, Glencross, i. 504.
Crawton, village, Kincardine, i. 232, 336.
Creach-Bhunn, mountain, Argyll, i. 65.
Creag-bhan, hill, Gigha and Cara, i. 471.
Crean-Mull, isles, Inverness, i. 232.
Crear, farm, Kilcalmonell and Kilberry, ii.
26.
Crease, lands, Langton, ii. 149.
Cree, river, Kirkcudbright, ii. 103, 111,354.
Creebridge, village, Kirkcudbright, i. 232.
Creechy, lands, Kintore, ii. 93.
Creed, river, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Creetown, burgh, Kirkcudbright, i. 232.
Creich, parish, Fife, i. 232.
Creich, loch, Skye, ii. 467.
Creid, loch, Stornoway, Lewis, ii. 502.
Creigriabhaeh, mountain, Durness, i. 342.
Creran, river and loch, Ardchattan, i. 60,
61, 62.
Creuchies, in Blairgowrie, i. 134.
Crew Well, Newtyle parish, ii. 317-
Criblaw, hill, Roberton, ii. 422.
Crichie, village, Aberdeen. See Stuartfield.
Crichton, parish, Edinburgh, i. 233.
Crichtondean, near Galashiels, i. 458.
Crickup, stream, Closeburn, i. 202.
CRIEFF, town, Perth, i. 234.
Crieve, hill, Tundergarth, ii. 565.
Criffel, hill, Newabbey, ii. 303.
Crimond, parish, Aberdeen, i. 236.
Crimonmogate, estate, Lonmay, ii. 214,215.
Crinamail, isle, Inverness, i. 237.
Crinan Canal, Ardrissaig,Arayll,i. 67,ii 135.
Crinan, loch, Kilmartin, ii. 45.
Cringletie, seat, Peeblesshire, ii. 351.
Crocketford, village, Kirkcudbright, i. 237.
Croe, river, Kintail, ii. 92.
Crofthead, Held, Whitburn, ii. 147.
Crofthead, village, Renfrew, i. 237, ii- 301.
Croftmoraig, lands, Dull, i. 302.
Crogo, Balmaclellan, i. 95, 96.
Croich, district, Ross and Cromarty, i. 237-
Crohn, island, Ross and Cromarty, i. 237.
Cro-Marr, tract, Midmar, ii. 253.
Cromarty, burgh, Ross and Cromarty, i. 237-
CROMARTY, county. See Ross and Cro-
marty, and Kilmuir Easter.
Crombie, ancient parish, Torrybum, ii. 554.
Crombie, burn, Kingoldrum, ii. 78.
Crombie, mansion, Marnoch, ii. 232.
Crombie-Point, village, Fife, i. 239, ii. 554.
Cromdale, parish, Elgin and Inverness, i.
239.
Cromlix, barony, Dunblane, i. 314.
Cromore, harbour, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Cromwell-Park, village, Perth, i. 240.
Cromwell's Mount, in Arderseir, Inverness,
i. 64.
Cronan, lands, Cupar- Angus, i. 256..
Cronay, isle, Sutherland, i; 240— i. 73.
Crook, hamlet, Elgin,- i. 240.
Crook of Devon, village, Kinross, i. 240.
Crooks, Westerkirk, ii. 598.
Crookston, mansion, Stow, ii. 504.
Croot, loch, Kirkmichael, ii. 115.
Crosbie, near Troon, Ayr, ii. 561.
Crosbie, residence, West Kilbride, ii. 24.
Crospul, loch, Durness, i. 342.
Cross, isle, Shetland, i. 241.
Cross, or Ness, district, Ross and Cromarty,
i. 241.
Cross, The, in Alloa parish, Clackmannan,
i. 38.
Cross and Burness, parish, Orkney, i. 240.
Crossaig, stream, Saddell and Skipness, ii.
446.
Cross-Arthurlee. See Arthurlee, Cross.
Crossbasket, residence, Kilbride, East, ii. 23.
Crossburn House, Douglas, i. 288.
Crossford, village, Fife, i. 241.
Crossford, village, Lanark, i. 241.
Crossgates, hamlet, Fife, i. 241.
Crossgates, village, Dunfermline, i. 241.
Crosshall, in Eccles, i. 356.
Crosshill, district, Lanark, i. 241.
Crossbill, village, Ayr, i. 241, ii. 115.
Crosshill, village, Renfrew, i. 242 — i. 192.
Crosshouse, village, Ayr, i. 242.
Crosskirk Bay, Reay, ii. 409 ; chapel, 410.
Crosslee, hamlet, Stow, ii. 504.
Crosslee, village, Renfrew, i. 242, 549.
Crossmichael, parish, Kirkcudbright, i. 242.
Crosspol, bay, Tiree and Coll, ii. 544.
Crossraguel, abbey, Kirkoswald, ii. 120, 121.
Crossridge, hill, Carmichael, i. 18].
Crosswater, river, New Luce, ii. 217.
Crovie, village, Gamrie, i. 243.
Croy and Dalcross, parish, Nairn and In-
verness, i 243.
Croyes, mansion, Kirkpatrick-Durham, ii.
122.
Cruachan. See Ben-Cruaclum.
Cruachlusach, hill, North Knapdale, ii. 133.
Crucifield Hill, in Unst, ii. 580.
Cruckie Height, Parton, ii. 347.
Cruden, parish, Aberdeen, i. 243.
Cruggleton, ancient parish, Sorbie, ii. 473.
Cruiek, river, Menmuir, ii. 248.
Cruickston Castle, Paisley, ii. 300, 344.
Crumstane Hill, Langton, ii. 149.
Crutherland, in Glassford, i. 500.
Cuan, sound, Kilbrandon and Kilchattan,
ii. 19.
Cuchullin, height, Skye, ii. 467.
Cuff Hill, Beith, i. 114.
Cuffabout, hamlet, Linlithgow, i. 244.
Cuil, Lismore and Appin, ii. 188.
Culbin, lands, Dyke and Moy, i. 346.
Culblair, farm, Pettie, ii. 372.
Culblean, in Tullich, hill, i. 507, 508.
Culbokie, village, Ross and Cromarty, i. 244.
Culcaboch, village, Inverness, i. 244.
Culdoch, farm, Kirkcudbright, ii. 102.
Culduthel, house, Inverness, i. 577.
Culfargie, in Perthshire, i. 291.
Culfreich, loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Cullalo Hills, Auchtertool, i. 81.
Cullen, burgh, Banff, i. 244.
Cullgruff, seat, Crossmichael, i. 242.
Cullicudden. See Kirkmichael and Cnl^
licitdden,
41
INDEX.
Culliness, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Cullisaid, loch, Tongue, ii. 548.
Cullivoe, bay, in North Yell, i. 423, 424.
Culloch, in New Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
CuLLOCHBURN, Or CoLLOCHBURN, Village, i.
213.
Culloden, Field of, near Inverness, i. 243,
273, 370.
Culloden House, Inverness, i. 577-
Culm, hill, Roberton, ii. 422.
Culross, burgh, Perth, i. 246.
Culsamond, parish, Aberdeen, i. 247.
Culsh, Standing Stones of, New Deer, i. 275.
Culsterness, in Delting, i. 278.
Culter, estate, Aberdeenshire, i. 294, ii. 368.
Culter, parish, Lanark, i. 248.
Culter, rivulet, Peterculter, ii. 367.
Culterallers, lands, Culter, i. 248.
Cultereullen, in Foveran, i. 453.
Culterfell, in Broughton, i. 155.
Cultoquhey House, Monzie, ii. 276.
Cults, parish, Fife, i. 248.
Cults, in Banchory-Devenick, i. 100.
Culvennan Hill, Kirkowan, ii. 121.
Culzean Castle, Kirkoswald, ii. 120.
Cumbernauld, parish, Dumbarton, i. 249,
379.
Cumbernauld, mansion, Dumbarton, i. 250.
Cumbray, Great, parish, Bute, i. 250.
Cumbrat, Little, Bute, i. 251.
Cumhill-Mhor, hill, Loehbroom, ii. 192.
Cuminestown, village, Aberdeen, i. 251, ii.
272.
Cumloden, lands, Minnigaff, ii. 257, 258.
Cummertrees, parish, Dumfries, i. 252.
Cummings' Camp, Bourtie, i. 149.
Cummingston, village, Elgin, i. 252.
Cumner, hill, Carnbee, i. 183.
Cumnock, New, parish, Ayr, i. 252.
Cumnock, Old, parish, Ayr, i. 253.
Cumrue, loch, Kirkmichael, ii. 117-
Cuniack, mountain, Assynt, county of Su-
therland, i. 73.
Cunninghame , district, i. 89.
Cunningham-Head, house, Dreghorn, i. 291.
Cunninghar, in Tillicoultry, ii. 541.
Cunningsburgh, Shetland. See Sandwich.
Cunningsburgh Hills, Shetland, i. 162.
Cunoquhie, seat, Monimail, ii. 265.
Cunzierton, in Oxnam parish, ii. 335.
CUPAR, town, Fife, i. 254.
Cupar-Angus, town, Perth and Forfar, i.
256 -i. 179.
Cupar-Grange, Bendochy, i. 1 17, 256.
Cur, river, Strachur, ii. 505.
Curfurrach, in Enzie, i. 403.
Curgarff, in Strathdon,ii. 512, 513.
Curghie, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Curloch, New Luce, ii. 218.
Curr, hill, Morebattle and Mow, ii. 278.
Curreath, house, Dundonald, i. 320.
Currie, parish, Edinburgh, i. 257.
Currie Hill, Edinburghshire, i. 257, 258.
Currie House, Borthwick, i. 145.
Cushnie, Aberdeen. See Leochel.
Cuthbert's, St. See Edinburgh.
Cuthbert's, St., cottage, Kirkcudbright, ii.
102.
Cuthill, or Cuttle, village, Haddington,
i. 258.
Cyder Hall, Sutherland, ii. 523.
Cypress Grotto, Lasswade, ii. 153.
Cyrus, St., parish, Kincardine, i. 258.
610
D
Daan, burn, Edderton, i. 359.
Dail, house, Craignish, i. 224.
Daill, South Knapdale, ii. 135.
Daillt, parish, Ayr, i. 259— i. 106.
Dairsie, parish, Fife, i. 260.
Dairsie-Muir, village, Dairsie, ii. 335.
Dalachy, farm, iu Aberdour, Fife, i. 24.
Dalarossie, Inverness. See M oy.
Dalaruin, village, Campbelltown, i. 173.
Dalavich, Argyll. See Kilchrenan.
Dalbeattie, village, Kirkcudbright, i. 260.
Dalblair, in Auchinleck, i. 76.
Dalcross, Nairn and Inverness. See Croy
and Dalcross.
Daldawn, mansion, Kelton, ii. 9.
Daldowie House, New Monkland, ii. 268.
Dale, in Halkirk, i. 531.
Dalgain, ancient name of Sorn, ii. 474.
Dalgarno, old parish, Dumfries, i, 202.
Dalgarnoch, New, Morton, ii. 282.
Dalgarvan, village, Ayr, i. 261 — i. 114,
489.
Dalgerrock, seat, Colmonell, i. 213.
Dalgety, parish, Fife, i. 261.
Dalginch, castle, Markineh, ii. 232.
Dalginross, village, Perth, i. 261 — i. 215.
Dalgoner, estate, Dunscore, i. 339.
Dalguise, house, Little Dunkeld, i. 331.
Dalhoan, barony, Crosshill, i. 241.
Dalhonzie, mansion, Comrie, i. 216.
Dalhousie, village, Edinburgh, i. 261 — i.
207.
Dalhousie-Mains, Newbattle, ii. 305.
Dalilongard, Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 337.
Dalintober, village, Argyll, i. 262 — i. 174.
Dalkairney Linn, in Straiton, ii. 506.
DALKEITH, town and parish, Edinburgh,
i. 262 ; railway, 378 ; coal basin, 391.
Dallas, parish, Elgin, i. 263.
Dallichip works, Bonhill, i. 141.
Dalmahoy, estate, Ratho, ii. 403, 404.
Dalmaik, old parish, now Drumoak, i. 294.
Dalmally, in Glenorchy, i. 509.
Dalmellington, parish, Ayr, i. 264.
Dalmeny, parish, Linlithgow, i. 265, ii. 398.
Dalmonach Works, Bonhill, i. 141.
Dalmoni, valley, Urquhart, ii. 583.
Dalmore, estate, Stair, ii. 484.
Dalmuir, village, Dumbarton, i. 266, ii. 59.
Dalmuir-Shore, village, Dumbarton, i. 266,
ii. 59.
Dalnotter, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59, 256.
Dalpatrick, in Dalserf, i. 270.
Dalquharran, lands, Dailly, i. 260.
Dalquhurn, in Cardross, i. 178, ii. 416.
Dalrey, Perthshire, i. 99.
Dalrigh, Kerera isle, ii. 14.
Dalrossie. See Moy and Dalrossie.
Dalruadhain, Argyllshire, i. 172.
Dalry, parish, Kirkcudbright, i. 267 — i.
188.
Dalry, town, Ayr, i. 266.
Dalrymple, parish, Ayr, i. 268.
Dalscairth, estate, Troqueer, ii. 562.
Dalserf, parish, Lanark, i. 269.
Dalsholm, village, Dumbarton, i. 270— ii.
58.
Dalswinton, village, Dumfries, i. 270 ; ii.
112, 113.
Dalton, parish, Dumfries, i. 270.
Dalton, Little, Mouswald, ii. 285.
Dalvait, hamlet, Dumbarton, i. 271.
Dalvey, Dyke and Moy, i. 346, 347.
Dalwhat, stream, Glencairn, i. 502.
Dalwhinnie, Laggan, ii. 139.
Dalyards, in Arderseir, Inverness, i. 64.
Dalyell, house, Cupar, i. 256.
Dalziel, parish, Lanark, i. 271.
Dame Helen's Castle, Dalmellington, i. 265.
Damend, farm, Tulhallan, ii. 563.
Damhead, Dumbarton. See Jametson.
Damhead, village, Fife, Kinross, and Perth,
i. 272— i. 70, 71.
Damiett, hill, Dollar, i. 283.
Damsay, isle, Firth and Stenness, i. 432.
Dandaleith, plain, Rothes, ii. 432.
Daneshalt, Fife. See DunsJmlt.
Danevale, seat, Crossmichael, i. 242.
Danger, Castle of, Douglas, i. 287.
Daukeith, mansion, Symington, ii. 525.
Daoire-nam-Mart, lake, Morvern, ii. 283.
Dardar, glen, in Aberdour, Aberdeen, i, 22.
Dargavel, house, Erskine, i. 406.
Dargie, hamlet, Perth, i. 272.
Darleith, in Bonhill, i. ] 41.
Darlingshaugh, village, Roxburgh, i. 272.
Darnaway, Elgin, i. 346, 347, 392.
Darngaber Castle, Hamilton, i. 535.
Darnick, village, Roxburgh, i. 272.
Darnley, in Eastwood, i. 354.
Darrach, hill, Denny, i. 278, 279.
Darvel, village, Ayr, i. 272, ii. 216.
David, St., hamlet, Perth, i. 272, ii. 226.
David, St., village, Fife, i. 272.
Davidson's-Mains, village, Edinburgh, i.
272.
Daviot, parish, Aberdeen, i. 272.
Daviot and Dunlichty, parish, i. 273.
Davoch, in Boharm, i. 137.
Dawan, loch, Logie-Coldstone, ii. 207.
Dawick, old parish, Peebles, i. 293.
Deals Voe, in Tingwall, ii. 541.
Dean, burn, Borrowstounness, i. 144.
Dean, castle, Kilmarnock, ii. 42, 43.
Dean, district, Edinburgh, i. 274, 373, 378.
Dean, river, Forfarshire ; Airlie, i, 33, 34 ;
Eassie and Nevay, 353 ; Glammis, 477.
Dean, village, Roxburgh, i. 274.
Deanburnhaugh, village, Roxburgh, i. 274.
Deanston, district, Perth, i. 274.
Deaothack, stream, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Dechmont, hill, Lanark, i. 169, 170.
Dechmont-law, hill, Livingstone, ii. 191.
Dee, loch, Minnigaff, ii. 257.
Dee, river, Birse, i. 130 ; Crathie and
Braemar, 229 ; Glenmuick, 507 ! Kin-
cardine O'Neil, ii. 70 ; Kincardineshire,
71 ; Maryculter, 234 ; Peterculter, 367.
Dee, river, Kelton, ii. 9 ; Kirkcudbright,
101, 102 ; Kirkcudbright stewartry, 103 ;
Tongland, 547.
Dee, Bridge of, Kirkcudbright, i. 275.
Deechoid, hill, Muckairn, ii. 288.
Deep, North and South, channels, New-
burgh, ii. 306.
Deepsykehead, Linton, ii. 186.
Deer, district, Aberdeenshire, i. 21.
Deer Camp, Morton, ii. 282.
Deer, New, parish, Aberdeen, i. 275.
Deer, Old, parish, Aberdeen, i. 275.
Deer Sound, Orkney, i. 49, 50.
Deerness, district, Orkney, i. 277 — i. 49.
INDEX.
Delfour, in Alvie, Inverness, i. 42.
Delgaty Castle, in Turriff, ii. 567.
Delting, parish, Shetland, i. 277-
Delvine House, in Caputh, i. 177-
Demyat Peak, Logie, ii. 205.
Den, The, Auchindoir, i. 75.
Denburn vale, Aberdeen, i. 12, 13.
Denfiend, Monikie, ii. 265.
Denhead, lands, Cupar- Angus, i. 256.
Denholm, village, Roxburgh, i. 278 — i. 194.
Denino, Fife. See Dunino.
Denmill, lands, in Abdie, Fife, i. 2.
Demniln, Liff and Benvie, ii. 179.
Denny, town, Stirling, i. 278.
Denoon, glen, Glammis, i. 478.
Denovan, village, Stirling, i. 279.
Dens, estate, Old Deer, i. 276.
Dercleugh, loch, in Straiton, ii. 506.
Derculich, house, Dull, i. 301.
Dergan, stream, Ardchattan, i. 62.
Deskfokd, parish, Banff, i. 279.
Deskry, river, Logie-Coldstone, ii. 207.
Dess, burn, in Aboyne, Aberdeen, i. 31.
Deuchar, estate, in Fearn, i. 420.
Deugh, river, Carsphairn, i. 188.
Devana, Peterculter, ii. 367.
Devar, isle, Campbelltown, i. 173.
Devenick. See Banchory-Dexenick.
Devon, river, Dollar, i. 283 ; Logie, ii. 205 ;
Muckart, 289.
Devon, Black, river, Clackmannan, i. 199.
Devonshaw House, in Fossoway, i. 451.
Devonside, village, Clackmannan, i. 280,
ii. 541.
Dewar, hill, Heriot, i. 541.
Dewartown, village, Edinburgh, i. 280.
Dhruim, district, Kilmorack, ii. 49.
Dhu, loch, in Wick, ii. 610.
Dhu, mountain, Luss, ii. 222.
Dhuisk, river, Barhill, i. 1 06.
Dhuisk Lodge, seat, Colmonell, i. 213.
Dhuloch, loch, Glenmuick, i. 507-
Dighty Water, Auchterhouse, i. 79 ; Moni-
fieth, ii. 264.
Diltymoss, Forfarshire, i. 183.
Dinard, stream, Durness, i. 342, 343.
DINGWALL, burgh, Ross, i. 280.
Dinnet, burn, in Aboyne, Aberdeen, i. 31.
Dinwoodie, old chapelry, Applegarth, i.
282— i. 55.
Dippen Point, Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Dipple, ancient parish, Speymouth, ii. 478.
Dippool, rivulet, Carnwath, i. 185.
Dirleton, parish, Haddington, i. 282.
Dirlot, in Halkirk, i. 531.
Dirnanaen, mansion, Moulin, ii. 284.
Dirrmgton Laws, hills, Longformacus and
Ellim, ii. 212.
Diru, loch, Tongue, ii. 548.
Diru-Moir, in Sutherland, i. 360.
Disblair, lands, Fintray, i. 430.
Dispolly, in Reay parish, ii. 409.
Distincthorn, hill, New Galloway, i. 460.
Divach, burn, Urquhart, ii. 582.
Divie, river, Edinkillie, i. 392, 393.
Dochart, loch, Perthshire, ii. 366.
Dochart, river, Killin, ii. 37 ; Weem, ii.
595.
Dochfour, house, Inverness, i. 577, 578.
Dodhead, height, Newlands, ii. 311.
Dodhill, in Oldhamstocks, i. 410.
Dods Corse Stane, Legerwood, ii. 161.
Dods Farm, Legerwood, ii. 161.
611
Dog Castle, in Torsay, Argyll, ii. 554.
Dogden Moss, Berwickshire, ii. 601.
Dog's Pillar, Kilmore and Kilbride, ii. 51.
Dogtown, farm, Kinglassie, ii. 78.
Dome, loch, Balquhidder, i. 99.
Dolbeth, mansion, Barony parish, Glasgow,
ii. 464.
Dollar, town, Clackmannan, i. 283.
Dollar Law, hill, Manor parish, ii. 230.
Dollars, mansion, Riccarton, ii. 421.
Dollerie, mansion, Madderty, ii. 226.
Dolphingston, village, Haddington, i. 284,
ii. 395.
Dolphinton, parish, Lanark, i. 284.
Domesdale, Linlithgow, ii. 184.
Don, river, Aberdeen, i. 21 ; Alford, 35 ;
Fintray, 430; Monymusk,ii. 275; Strath-
don, 512 ; Towie, 557.
Don, loch, Torosay, ii. 551.
Donald Caum's Shealing, Lochs parish, ii.
199.
Donan Castle, Kintail, i. 285, ii. 92.
Donibristle, lands, Fife, i. 24, 261.
Doon, in Twynholm, ii. 569.
Doon, castle, in Straiton, ii. 507.
Doon, fortress, Kilmorie, ii. 52.
Doon, river, Dalmellington, i. 264 ; Dal-
rymple, 268 ; Kirkmichael, ii. 115 ; Strai-
ton, 506.
Doon, Loch, in Straiton, ii. 506.
Doon Hill, Spott parish, ii. 479.
Doonpark, mansion, Kirkpatrick-Durham,
ii. 122, 123.
Dorback, stream, Edinkillie, i. 392, 393.
Dore Holm, isle, Shetland, i. 285.
Dores, parish, Inverness, i. 285.
Dormont, house, Dalton, i. 271.
Dornadilla's Tower, Durness, i. 343.
Dornal, loch, Colmonell, i. 213.
Dornie and Bundaloch, village, Ross and
Cromarty, i. 285, ii. 92.
Dornoch, burgh, Sutherland, i. 285.
Dornock, parish, Dumfries, i. 287.
Doras-mor, sound, Craignish, i. 224.
Dosk, New, old parish, Edzell, i. 395.
Double Dykes, encampment, Stonehouse, ii.
500.
Double Hill, Rescobie, ii. 417.
Douglas, stream, in Douglas, i. 288.
Douglas, stream, Inverary, i. 567.
Douglas, town, Lanark, i. 287.
Douglas, Castle, town. See Castle-Douglas.
Douglas Park, Bothwell, i. 148.
Douglas, Water of, Arrochar, i. 71.
Douglaston, village, Forfar, i. 289.
Douloch, lake, Inverary, i. 566, 567.
Doun, hill, Fintry, i. 431.
Doune, farm, in Arrochar, i. 71.
Doune, hill, Dumbartonshire, i. 304.
Doune, mansion, Rothiemurchus, ii. 436.
DOUNE, town, Perth, i. 289, ii. 39.
Doune Lodge, Kilmadock, ii. 39.
Doune of Nochty, Strathdon, ii. 513.
Dour, rivulet, in Aberdour, Fife, i. 23, 24.
Doura, village, Ayr, i. 290, ii. 66, 67.
Dovecote, villa, Inveresk, ii. 295.
Dovecot-hall, Neilston, ii. 301.
Dovecotland, village, Perth, i. 290.
Dovehill, village, Renfrew, i. 290.
Dovemount Well, in Wilton, ii. 615.
Doveron, river, Alvah, i. 40 ; Banff, 102,
103 ; Cabrach, 163 ; Marnoch, ii. 232 ;
Rothiemay, 435 ; Turriff, 566.
Dowal, loch, Lochcarron, ii. 193.
Dowally, Perth. See Dunkeld and Dmcally,
and Caputh.
Dowalton, loch, Sorbie, ii. 473.
Dow Hill, Glasgow, i. 493.
Dowloch, lake, Penpont, ii. 356.
Down, village, now Macduff, Banff, ii. 225.
Downan, in Inveraven, i. 568.
Downfield, hill, Kettle, ii. 16.
Downhill, near Dunbar, i. 310, 311.
Downhill, Easter, in Fossoway, i. 451.
Downie, fortress, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Downie Hills, Monikie, ii. 264.
Downie Park, Tannadice, ii. 528.
Downies, village, Banchory-Devenick, i.
290— i. 100.
Draffan, castle, Dunino, i. 326.
Dragon Hole, cave, Kinfauns, ii. 73.
Drainie, parish, Elgin, i. 290.
Dreel, burn, in Abercrombie, Fife, i. 5.
Dreghorn, parish, Ayr, i. 291.
Dreghorn Castle, in Colinton, i. 211.
Drem, barony, Athelstaneford, i. 74.
Drimdrissaig, mansion, South Knapdale, ii.
134.
Drimmashie Moor, Daviot, i. 273.
Drimmie, hill, Longforgan, ii. 210 ; House,
211.
Drimmie, residence, Rescobie, ii. 417.
Drimmiew, hill, Inverury, i. 581.
Drimnacreige, North Knapdale, ii. 134.
Drimsynie House, Lochgoilhead, ii. 196.
Drimvuick, Ardchattan, i. 62.
Drimyeon, Gigha and Cara, i. 471.
Drochil Castle, Newlands, ii. 311.
Dron, Longforgan, ii. 211.
Dron, parish, Perth, i. 291.
Drongan, estate, Stair, ii. 484.
Drongs, rock, Northmavine, ii. 323.
Dronky, loch, Aberfoyle, Perth, i. 25.
Dronley, village, Forfar, i. 292— i. 79, 80.
Drop, The, in Clunie, i. 204.
Dropping Cave, in Slains and Forvie, ii. 468.
Druid- Hill Burn, Penpont, ii. 356.
Druidibeg, Loch, in South Uist, ii. 576, 577.
Druid's Bridge, Glenorchy, i. 509.
Druimadoun, bay, Bute, i. 163.
Druimbuy, harbour, Morvern, ii. 283.
Druimleah, in Criech, i. 233.
Druim-na-Coup, in Tongue, ii. 548.
Druim-nam-Ban-Fionn, Lismore and Appin,
ii. 189.
Drum, estate, Drumoak, i. 294.
Drum, lands, Liberton, i. 473, ii. 177-
Drum, Mills of, Banchory-Ternan, i. 100.
Drumalbin, hill, Carmichael, i. 181.
Drum-Ashi, hill, Dores, i. 285.
Drumaw, camp, Ayton, i. 91.
Drumblade, parish, Aberdeen, i. 292.
Drumblair, house, Forgue, i. 444.
Drumburn, hamlet, Newabbey, ii. 304.
Drumcarro Craig, in Cameron, i. 172.
Drumclog, in Avondale, i. 84.
Drumcoltran, tower, Kirkgunzeon, ii. 106.
Drumderflt, estate, Knoekbain, ii. 137.
Drumdol, lands, Fife, i. 97-
Drumdow, estate, Stair, ii. 484.
Drumduan, house, Forres, i. 445.
Drumeldrie-Muir, village, Fife, i. 292.
Drumelie, loch, Lethendy and Kinloch, ii.
173.
Drumfin, house, Tobermory, ii. 546.
Drumfurrich, district, Aberlour, Banff, i. 27.
4 I 2
INDEX.
Drumglay, village, Forfar, i. 293.
Drumidoon, headland, Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Drumin, castle, Inveraven, i. 568.
Druminnor, seat, Auchindoir, i. 75.
Drumkilbo, mansion, Meigle, ii. 243.
Drumlamford, seat, Colmonell, i. 213.
Druml an rig, palace, Dumfries, i. 293, ii. 356.
Drumlemble, village, Argyll, i. 293.
Drumley, house, Tarbolton, ii. 530.
Drumlithie, village, Kincardine, i. 293, 501.
Drumlochan, burn, Ardclach, i. 63.
Drumlochy, castle, Blairgowrie, i. 135.
Drummachargan, eminence, Monivaird and
Strowan, ii, 266.
Drummelzier, parish, Peebles, i. 293, ii. 567.
Drummetermont, village, Forfar, i. 293.
Drummine, forest, Edinkillie, i. 392.
Drummond, barony, Drymen, i. 297.
Drummond, hills, Laggan, ii. 139.
Drummond, loch and castle, Muthill, ii. 297-
Drummond, village, Ross and Cromarty, i.
294, ii. 65.
Drummore Castle, Kirkcudbright, ii. 103.
Drummossie Moor, Daviot, i. 273.
Drumnadrochit, in Urquhart, ii. 583.
Drumnamarg, estate, Killiernan, ii. 36.
Drumoak, parish, Aberdeen and Kincar-
dine, i. 294.
Drumochtor, forest, Laggan, ii. 139.
Drumochy, village, Fife, i. 295.
Drumore, loch, Kirkmichae), ii. 115.
Drumore, village, Wigton, i. 295, ii. 114.
Drumpark, residence, Kirkpatrick-Irongray,
ii. 125.
Drumpellier, in Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Drumquhindle, Little, Methlick, ii. 249.
Drumry, New Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
Drdms, hamlet, Perth, i. 295.
Drums, house, Erskine, i. 405.
Drumsargart, barony, Lanark, i. 169.
Drumseugh, lands, Edinburgh, i. 373.
Drumsturdt-Muir, village, Forfar, i. 295.
Drumtochty, Kincardineshire, i. 436.
Drumuachder, hill, Perth, ii. 365.
Drumuachter, forest, Kingussie, ii. 81.
Drumvaich, hamlet, Perth, i. 295.
Drunkie, lands, Port of Monteith, ii. 387.
Dryburgh, village, Berwick, i. 295.
Dryburgh House, Mertoun, ii. 249.
Dryburn, stream, Dunbar, i. 311.
Dryburn, stream, Dunsyre, i. 340.
Dryden, seat, Lasswade, ii. 429.
Dryfe, river, Applegarth, i. 55 ; Dryfesdale,
296 ; Lochmaben, ii. 198.
Dryfesauds, Dumfriesshire, i. 589.
Dryfesdale, parish, Dumfries, i. 295.
Dryhope Castle, Yarrow, ii. 618.
Drymen, parish, Stirling, i. 290.
Dualt, glen, Killearn, ii. 35.
Duard, promontory, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Duart, in Torosay, Argyll, ii. 550, 551.
Dubbieside, village, Fife, i. 297, ii. 175.
Dubbs, in Stevenston parish, ii. 487.
Dubbs, river, Lochwinnoch, ii. 201.
Duchal, mansion, Kilmalcolm, ii. 39.
Duchal, river, Kilmalcolm, ii. 39.
Duchess' Cave, Dunkeld, i. 331.
Duchoille, castle, Glenorchy, i. 509.
Ducbrae House, in Balmaghie, i. 97.
Ducbray, hill, Dunkeld, i. 329.
Duckray, stream, Aberfoyle, Perth, i. 25.
Duddingston, parish, Edinburgh, i. 297,
370.
612
Duddingston, Easter, village, Edinburgh,
i. 298.
Duddingston House, seat, in Abercorn,
Linlithgow, i. 4.
Duddingston, Wester, village, Edinburgh,
i. 298.
Duddingston-Mills, village, Edinburgh, i.
298.
Duddy Law, Longformacus and Ellim, ii.
212.
Dudhope, castle, Dundee, i. 320.
Dudwick, house, Ellon, i. 402.
Duff, stream, Innerkip, i. 561.
Duff House, near Banff, i. 103.
Dufftown, village, Banff, i. 298.
Duffus, parish, Elgin, i. 299.
Dugalston, estate, New Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
Dugden, moss, Greenlaw, i. 521.
Dugharidh, Kilmorie, ii. 52.
Duibhe, stream, Fortingal, i. 448.
Duich, loch, Glenshiel, i. 510.
Duirinish, parish, Inverness, i. 299.
Duke's Walk, Edinburgh, i. 375.
Dularran Holm, Balmaclellan, i. 96.
Dulcapon, barony, Dunkeld, i. 329.
Dulcie, in Ardclach, Nairn, i. 63.
Dull, parish, Perth, i. 300.
Dullatur, bog, Cumbernauld, i. 250.
Dullen, stream, Mortlaeh, ii. 280, 281.
Dulnan, stream, Duthil, i. 345.
Duloch, house, Iuverkeithing, i. 573.
Dulzellowlie, Kirkoswald, ii. 120.
Dumbarney, Perth. See Dunbarny.
DUMBARTON, burgh, i. 302.
DUMBARTONSHIRE, i. 303.
Dumbennan, old parish, Huntly, i. 551.
Dumbroch, loch, Strathblane, ii. 511.
Dumbuck, hills, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59.
Dumbuck, seat, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59.
Dumbuck, village, Dumbarton, i. 304.
Dumbuils, estate, Forgandenny, i. 443.
Dumcrief, residence, Moffat, ii. 261.
Dumfin, fortification, Luss, ii. 223.
DUMFRIES, burgh, i. 305.
Dumfries House, Old Cumnock, i. 254.
DUMFRIESSHIRE, i. 308.
Dumgree, old parish, Dumfries, i. 589.
Dun, parish, Forfar, i. 309.
Duu-a-Bheallich, fortress, North Knapdale,
ii. 134.
Dunachton, lands, in Alvie, i. 42.
Dunagoil, bay, Kingarth, ii. 74.
Dunagoil, fort, Kingarth, ii. 73.
Dunain, house, Inverness, i. 577.
Dunan, promontory, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Dunans, lands, Kilmodan, ii. 48.
Dunardary, hill, North Knapdale, ii. 133.
Dunaverty, bay, Southend, Argyll, ii. 476.
DUNBAR, burgh, Haddington, i. 310, 364,
367.
Dunbarny, parish, Perth, i. 312.
Dunbarrow, hill, Dunnicheu, i. 334.
Dunbeath, hamlet, Caithness, i. 313 — i. 118,
166.
Dunbeath, river, Latheron, ii. 154.
Dunblane, town, Perth, i. 313.
Dunblane, Well of, near Bridge of Allan, i.
36.
Duu-bo-chaistil, in Callander, i. 168.
Dunbog, parish, Fife, i. 314.
Duncanlaw, in Yester, ii. 621.
Duncansbay, township, Caithness, i. 315— i.
175.
Dun-Charloway, fort, Lochs parish, ii. 199.
Dun-Chine, in Gigha, Argyll, i. 472.
Dunchorvil, in Inverary, i. 566.
Dunchuaich, in Inverary, i. 566, 567.
Duncol, estate, Kirkmahoe, ii. 112.
Duncow, village, Dumfries, i. 315, ii. 112,
113.
Duncrivie, village, Kinross, i. 315— i. 70,
71.
Duncruib, house, Dunning, i. 335.
Duncruin, hill, Kilmaronock, ii. 44.
Dundaf Lin, cascade, Lanark, ii. 143.
Dundaff, Balfron, i. 93.
Dundaff Hill, St. Ninian's, ii. 320.
Dundargue, castle, in Aberdour, Aberdeen,
i. 22, 23.
Dundas, Dalmeny, i. 265.
DUNDEE, burgh and sea-port, Forfarshire ;
history, i. 316 ; situation, 316 ; trade and
manufactures, 317 ; burgh, 317 ; parish,
318 ; churches, schools, &c, 319.
Dundee and Arbroath railway, i. 58, 318.
Dundee and Newtyle railway, i. 318.
Dundonald, in Auchterderrau, i. 78.
Dun-Donald, mound, North Knapdale, ii.
134.
Dundonald, parish, Ayr, i. 320.
Dundonuell, lands, Lochbroom, ii. 192, 193.
Dundrennan, village, Kirkcudbright, i. 321.
Dundroich, hill, Eddlestone, i. 359.
Dunduff, castle, Maybole, ii. 241.
Dunduff, lake, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Dunduramh, castle, Lochgoilhead, ii. 196.
Dundurcus, suppressed parish, i. 137 J "•
431, 432.
Dundurn, ancient parish, Perth, i. 215.
Dundyvan, village, Lanark, i. 321, ii. 270.
Dundyvan, New, village, Lanark, i. 321.
Dune Alliscaig, in Edderton, i. 359.
Dunearn, hill, Burntisland, i. 160, 161.
Dunearh, hill, Nairnshire, i. 63.
Duneaton, river, Crawfordjohn, i. 231.
DUNFERMLINE, burgh, Fifeshire ; his-
tory, i. 321 ; situation, 322 ; trade and
manufactures, 323 ; municipal affairs,
323 ; parish, 324 ; ecclesiastical affairs,
325 ; antiquities, 325.
Dun-Fillan Hill, Perthshire, i. 429.
Dungart, Little, farm, Ayrshire, i. 214.
Dungavel, hill, Wiston, ii. 616.
Dungeon, loch, Kells, ii. 6.
Dungivel, hill, Avondale, i. 84.
Dunglass, glen, Cockburnspath, i. 206.
Dunglass, hill, Strathblane, ii. 511.
Dunglass, seat, Berwickshire, i. 126.
Dunglass Castle, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 60.
Dunglow, hill, Cleish, i. 201.
Dungoiaeh, hill, Strathblane, ii. 511, 512.
Dungoil, bay, Bute, i. 163.
Dungyle, hill, Kelton, ii. 9, 10.
Dunhead, fort, Carmylie, i. 183.
Duniaa Hill, Bedrule, i. 113.
Dun-ii, hill, Iona, i. 582.
Dunikier Law, Kilconquhar, ii. 28.
Dunino, parish, Fife, i. 326.
Dunipace, parish, Stirling, i. 326.
Dunira, mansion, Comrie, i. 216.
Dunjop, house, Tongland, ii. 547-
Dunkeld and Dowally, parish, Perth, i.
327.
Dunkeld, Little, parish, Perthshire, i. 331
— i. 177-
Dunlappie, old parish, Forfar, ii. 516.
INDEX.
Dunijchty, Inverness. See Daviot and
Dunlichty.
Dunlop, parish, Ayr, i. 332.
Dunlugas, seat, in Alvah, Banff, i. 41.
Dun Mac Sniachan, eminence, Ardchattan,
i. 62.
Dunman, hill, Kirkmaiden, ii. 1 13.
Dun-mhie Raonaill, Kilnuiver and Kilmel-
foi'd, ii. 57.
Dunmore, and Dunmore Park, Stirling, i.
334— i. 34.
Dunmore, fort, Monzie, ii. 276.
Dunmore, hill, Fife, i. 314, 315.
Dunmore Castle, Kilcalmonell and Kilberry,
ii. 26.
Dun-naom-haig, fort, Kildalton, ii. 30.
Dunuemarl, castle, Culross, i. 246.
Dunnet, parish, Caithness, i. 333.
Dunnichen, parish, Forfar, i. 334.
Dunnidald, house, i. 222.
Dunnideer, hill, Insch, i. 563, 564.
Dunnikier House, Kirkcaldy, ii. 98, 347.
Dunning, parish, Perth, i. 335.
Dunnottar, parish, Kincardine, i. 335 — i. 7.
Dun-o-deer, in Chapel of Garioch, i. 464.
Dunolly, castle, Kilmore and Kilbride, ii.
51.
Dunoon and Kilhun, parish, Argyll, i. 336.
Dunphail House, Edinkillie, i. 393.
Dunreay, hill, Reay, ii. 409.
Dunreggan, village, Dumfries, i. 337.
Dunrobin, castle, Golspie, i. 511.
Dunrod, lands, Kirkcudbright, ii. 100, 102.
Dunrod, rivulet, Innerkip, i. 561.
Dunrossness, parish, Shetland, i. 338.
Dunrostan, stream, North Knapdale, ii. 133.
Dun-scaich, building, Sleat parish, Skye, ii.
471.
Dunscore, parish, Dumfries, i. 338.
Dunscriben, fort, Urquhart, ii. 583.
DUNSE, town, Berwick, i. 339.
Dunshelt, village, Fife, i. 340.
Dunsinnan Hill, Collace, i. 211, ii. 233.
Dunsinnan House, Collace, i. 211.
Dunskeath Castle, Nigg, ii. 318.
Dunskeig, fort, Kilcalmonell and Kilberry,
ii. 26.
Dunskey, Portpatrick, ii. 387, 388.
Dunslaw, eminence, Roxburgh parish, ii.
439.
Dunstaffnage, Kilmore and Kilbride, ii. 50.
Dunsyre, parish, Lanark, i. 340.
Duntaynish, hill, North Knapdale, ii. 133.
Duntiblae, mansion, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Dunxocher, district, Dumbarton, i. 341, ii.
59, 60.
Duutreath, castle, Strathblane, ii. 510, 511.
Duntroon Castle, Kilmartin, ii. 44, 45.
Duntulm, bay, Kilmuir, ii. 53.
Dunure, castle, Maybole, ii. 241.
Dunure, fishing harbour, Maybole, ii. 240.
Dunvegan, Duirinish, i. 300.
Dupplin, ancient parish, Perth, i. 5 ; church,
i. 6.
Dupplin Castle, seat, Aberdalgie and Dup-
plin, i. 6.
Dura-Den, Fifeshire, i. 195, ii. 10.
Durhamhill, mansion, Kirkpatrick-Durham,
ii. 122.
Durie, lands, Leven, ii. 175, 457, 458.
Durinish, Isle of Skye. See Duirinish.
Durisdeer, parish, Dumfries, i. 341.
Durn, hill, Fordyce, i. 437, 438.
613
Durn, streamlet, Fordyce, ii. 391.
Durness, parish, Sutherland, i. 342, 360.
Duror, district, Argyll, i. 343.
Durran, loch, Olrick, ii. 328.
Durrington-Laws, Longformacus, i. 512.
Durris, parish, Kincardine, i. 344.
Dusk, stream, Beith, i. 114.
Duthil, parish, Elgin and Inverness, i. 344.
Dwarfie-Stone, in Hoy and Grsemsay, i. 550.
Dwarrick, headland, Caithness, i. 166.
Dyce, parish, Aberdeen, i. 345, ii. 225.
Dye, river, Cranshaws, i. 227.
Dye, river, Strachan, ii. 504.
Dyke and Moy, parish, Elgin, i. 346.
Dyrock, river, Kirkmiehael, ii. 115.
DYSART, burgh, Fife, i. 347— i. 1.
Dysart, lands, Marytown, ii. 236.
E
Eagerness, headland, Sorbie, ii. 473, 474.
Eaglescarnie, estate, Bolton, i. 140.
Eaglesfield, village, Dumfries, i. 349, ii.
133.
Eaglesham, parish, Renfrew, i. 349.
Eagleshay, isle, Orkney, i. 351.
Eagleshay, isle, Shetland, i. 351, ii. 323.
Ealan. See EiUan.
Earl-Cairney, in Dalmeny, i. 266.
Earl's Burn, near Denny, i. 278.
Earlsferry, burgh, Fife, i. 351.
Earlshall, mansion, Leuchars, ii. 174.
Earl's Hill, Ellon, i. 401.
Earl's Hill, St. Ninian's, ii. 320.
Earl's Knoll, eminence, Stronsay, ii. 346.
Earl's Seat, hill, Strathblane, ii. 511.
Earlston, house, Borgue, i. 142.
Earlston, stream, Dairy, i. 267.
Earlstoun, parish, Berwick, i. 351.
Earn, Loch, Perthshire, ii. 194.
Earn, river, Auehterarder, i. 77 ; Dun-
baruy, 313 ; Gask, 469 ; Monivaird and
Strowan, ii. 267.
Earn, Bridge of, village, Perth, i. 353 —
i. 313.
Earuock, Hamilton, i. 534, 535.
Easdale, isle, Argyll, i. 353, ii. 19.
Easnambroc, waterfall, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Eassie and Nevay, parish, Forfar, i. 353.
East Coaltown. See Coaltown, East. And
all places having a similar distinguishing
prefix will be found under tlie proper name.
East, parish. See Aberdeen.
Eastbarns, village, Dunbar, i. 354 — i. 312.
East-Burn, Stewarton parish, ii. 488.
Eastburn, stream, Kirkcaldy, ii. 98.
East-Church, district, Brechin, i. 153.
Eastend, mansion, Carmichael, i. 181.
Easter-Elchies, mansion, ii. 136.
Easterhill, Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Easterhouse, in Old Monkland, i. 241, ii.
269.
Easter-Skene, mansion, Skene parish, ii. 466.
Eastertown, hill, Fyvie, i. 456.
Eastfield, Rutherglen, ii. 442.
East-Head, near Portsoy, i. 438.
Easthouses, village, Newbattle, i. 354, ii.
305.
Eastriggs, farm, Dornock, i. 287-
Eastwood, parish, Renfrew, i. 354.
Ebrie, valley, Ellon, i. 401, 402.
Eccles, parish, Berwick, i. 355.
Ecclescraig, Kincardine. See Cyrus, St.
Ecclesfechan, village, Dumfries, i. 356,543,
544.
Eccles House, Penpont, ii. 356.
Ecclesmachan, parish, Linlithgow, i. 356.
Echaig, river, Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 337.
Echt, parish, Aberdeen, i. 356.
Eck, Loch, Strachur, ii. 505.
Eckford, parish, Roxburgh, i. 357.
Eday, Orkney. See Stronsay and Eday.
Edderton, parish, Ross and Cromarty, i. 358.
Eddlestone, parish, Peebles, i. 359.
Eddlestone, river, Peebles, ii. 350.
Eddrachillis, parish, Sutherland, i. 360.
Eden, river, St. Andrew's, i. 47 ; Ceres,
194 ; Cupar, 256 ; Kemback, ii. 10 ;
Kettle, 15 ; Strathmiglo, 514.
Eden, river, Ednam, i. 393, 394 ; Leger-
wood, ii. 1C0 ; Stitchell and Hume, 497 ;
Westruther, 601.
Eden Castle, King-Edward parish, ii. 74.
Eden House, King-Edward parish, ii. 75.
Edenkillie. See Edinkillie.
Edenton, village, in Collessie, Fife, i. 361.
Edenwood, mansion, Ceres, i. 195.
Ederlin, loch, Kilmichael-Glassary, ii. 47.
Edgehead, village, Liberton, i. 473.
Edge Moss, Blantyre, i. 136.
Edgerston, house, Jedburgh, i. 587, 588.
Edinample, Balquhidder, i. 99.
Edinbarnet, seat, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59.
EDINBURGH, i. 361 :—
Early History, 361.
Events of the 14th century, 362.
Of the 15th, 362.
And of the 16th, 362.
Era of the Reformation, 363.
Occurrences connected with Mary,
Queen of Scots, 364
And with James VI., 365.
Events of the 17th century, 366.
Proceedings of the Covenanters, 366.
The Parliamentary War, 367.
Era of the Revolution, 368.
Important Events of the 18th century,
368.
Efforts of the Pretender in 1715, 369.
And in 1745, 369.
Events of the 19th century, 370.
Royal visits, 371.
General Description of the city, 371.
Its extension at various periods, 372.
Notice of the Castle : the Regalia, 373.
Of Holyrood Abbey and palace, 374.
Of the Parliament-House, and the
Libraries of the Advocates and the
Writers to the Signet, 375.
Of the College of Physicians, that of
Surgeons, and the Medical Society,
376.
Of the Royal Exchange, and the Bank
of Scotland, 376.
The Register Office, 377.
Royal Institution and other Literary
and Scientific Institutions ; Assembly
Rooms ; Theatre, 377.
Monuments to Nelson, David Hume,
Lord Melville, the Earl of Hope-
toun, George IV., and Pitt ; the
National Monument ; Monuments to
Playfair, Stewart, Burns, and Scott,
377-
INDEX.
EDINBURGH, continued.
Lighting, &c, Railways and Canal,
378.
Municipal Affairs ; County Hall ;
Prisons, 379.
History, Government, Buildings, of the
University, 381.
New College, High School, and Aca-
demy, 382.
Ecclesiastical arrangements, and
Places of Worship ; High Church
Parish, 383.
Old Church, Tolbooth, Trinity College,
New North, and Tron Church, 384.
The Old Grey Friars', New Grey
Friars', St. Andrew's, St. George's,
Lady Yester's, St. Mary's, and St.
Stephen's Parishes, 384.
Canongate, St. Cuthbert's, Greenside,
and St. John's, 385.
Former Quoad Sacra Pai'ishes, 386.
Hospitals and other Charitable In-
stitutions ; Heriot's Hospital, 386.
George Watson's, John Watson's, Mer-
chants' Maiden, and Trades' Maiden
Hospitals, 387.
Orphan, Gillespie's, Donaldson's, and
Trinity Hospitals, 388.
The Royal Infirmary, Public Dispen-
sary, Lunatic Asylum, Asylum for
the Blind, and Institution for Deaf
and Dumb, 388.
Fettes' Endowment, Chalmers' Hos-
pital, and Miscellaneous Charities,
389.
Eminent Natives, 389.
See also Leith, ii. 161.
EDINBURGHSHIRE, i. 390.
Edingarth, seat, Banffshire, i. 105.
Edingham, in Urr, ii. 585.
Edingight, property, Grange, i. 517, 518.
Edinglassie, house, Strath- Don, ii. 532.
Edinkens, bridge, Innerwick, i. 563.
Edinkillie, parish, Elgin, i. 392 — i. 63.
Edinshall, castle, Dunse, i. 340.
Edintore, seat, Keith, ii. 4.
Edinville, hamlet, Elgin, i. 393.
Edinvillie, district, Aberlour, Banff, i. 27.
Edlewood, house, Hamilton, i. 534.
Edmonston, mansion, Biggar, i. 128.
Edmonstone, in Inveresk, i. 570.
Edmonstone, village, Edinburgh, i. 393, ii.
313.
Ednam, parish, Roxburgh, i. 393.
Ednam House, Kelso, ii. 8.
Edrington, lands, Mordington, ii. 277, 278.
Edrom, parish, Berwick, i. 394.
Edward, King, parish. See King-Edward.
Edzell, parish, Kincardine and Forfar, i.
395.
Efort, loch, in North Uist, ii. 574.
Eggmore, lands, Dumfries, i. 256.
Eglinton Castle, Kilwinning, ii. 66, 67.
Eglismonichty, ancient chapelry, Monifieth,
ii. 263.
Eigg, island, Inverness, i. 396.
Eil, loch, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Eilan-na-gaul, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Eildon, hamlet, Roxburgh, i. 396.
Eildon Hills, Melrose, i. 396, ii. 246.
EiLEAN-A-IiMRic, isle, Eddrachillis, i. 396.
614
Eilean-a-Gharin, isle, Assynt, i. 396.
Eilean-an-Dd, isles, Assynt, i. 396.
Eilean-an-Righ, isle, Laggan, ii. 140.
Eilean-Mhor, isle, Tiree and Coll, ii. 544.
Eilean-Mhuin, isle, Argyll and Inverness,
i. 396.
Eilean-More, isle, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Eilean-na-Coomb, isle, Sutherland, i. 351.
Eilean-na-Gaeil, isle, Tongue, ii. 549.
Eilean-na-Gamhna, isle, South Kuapdale, ii.
134.
Eilean-na-Muick, isle, South Knapdale, ii.
134.
Eilean-nan-Caorach, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Eilean-nan-Con, isle, Laggan, ii. 140.
Eilean-nan-Naomh, isle, Sutherland, i. 351,
ii. 549.
Eilean-nan-Ron, isle, Sutherland, i. 351,
ii. 549.
Eilean'n Tagart, Kilchrenan and Dalavich,
ii. 27.
Eirde Houses, in Strathdon, ii. 514.
Eishart, loch, Sleat parish, Skye, ii. 470.
Elan Achlearish, Priest isle, Lochbroom, ii.
395.
Elan-Duirnish, isle in Ardchattan, Argyll,
i. 61.
Elan-nan- Each, isle, Argyll, ii. 288.
Elein-an-Stalcaire, Lismore and Appin, ii.
190.
Elein-Loch-Oscair, isle, Lismore and Appin,
ii. 189.
Elchaig, river, Kintail, ii. 92.
Elchies, ancient parish, Knockando, ii. 135.
Elderslie, village, Renfrew, i. 396.
Elderslie House, Renfrew parish, ii. 414.
Eldin, estate, Lasswade, ii. 154.
Eldrig, village, Wigton, i. 396.
Elean-Munde, ancient parish, Lismore and
Appin, ii. 188.
Elgar, isle, Orkney, i. 396.
ELGIN, burgh, i. 397.
ELGINSHIRE, i. 400.
Elhardholm, isle, Shapinshay, Orkney, ii.
462.
Elibank Cottage, Yarrow, ii. 618.
Elidarwick, harbour, Shapinshay, Orkney,
ii. 461.
Elie, parish, Fife, i. 400.
Eliock, lands, Sanquhar, ii. 454.
Eliogary, in Barra, i. 108.
Ellain-Imersay, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Elian. See Eilean.
Elland-Heirrig, Inverchaolain, i. 569.
Ellandonan Castle, Ross and Cromarty, i.
285.
Ellanfada, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Ellenabaich, village, Argyll, i. 401.
Ellenerton, village, Forfar, i. 401.
Eller-Holm, isle, Orkney, i. 396.
Elliesland, farm, Dunscore, i. 339.
Ellieston, lands, St. Boswell's, i. 146.
Ellim, Berwick. See Longformacus.
Elliot, river, Arbirlot, Forfar, i. 56.
Elliston Castle, Lochwinnoch, ii. 203.
Ellon, parish, Aberdeen, i. 401.
Ellsrickle, village, Lanark, i. 402, ii. 590,
591.
Elot, stream. See Elliot.
Elphinstone, village, Haddington, i. 402.
Elrick, mansion, New Machar, ii. 226.
Elshieshields, mansion, Lochmaben, ii. 198.
Elsick, Fetteresso, i. 420.
Elsness, district, Lady parish, Orkney, ii.
138.
Elsridgehill, or Ellsrickle, village, i. 402.
Elst, loch, Criech, i. 234.
Elvingston House, Gladsinuir, i. 476.
Elwick, harbour, Shapinshay, Orkney, ii.
461, 462.
Embo, in Dornoch, i. 286.
Encrogo, loch, Crossraichael, i. 242.
End, Loch, Coylton, i. 221.
End, Loch, Newabbey, ii. 303.
Endrick, river, Drymen, i. 296 ; Fintry,
431 ; Kilmaronock, ii. 44 ; Stirlingshire,
496.
Endrick- Bank, mansion, Drymen, i. 297.
Engine, New and Old, hamlets, Edinburgh,
i. 402.
Enhallow, island, Orkney, i. 402.
Enneric, stream, Urcmhart, ii. 582.
Ennich, loch, Rothiemurchus, ii. 436.
Enoch's, St., Hall, in Bothwell, i. 148.
Ensay', isle, Harris, i. 403 — i. 118.
Enterkin, burn, Durisdeer, i. 342.
Enterkine, house, Tarbolton, ii. 530.
Enzie, district, in Bellie, and in Rathven, i.
403.
Enzieholm, farm, Westerkirk, ii. 599.
Eorsa, isle, Kilfiniehen aud Kilviceuen, ii. 33.
Epidium Promontorium, Southend, ii. 476.
Erchless Castle, Kiltarlity, ii. 64.
Eregie, mansion, Dores, i. 285.
Eriboll, loch, Durness, i. 343.
Erichkie, stream, Blair-Atholl, i. 132.
Ericht, loch, Perthshire, ii. 81, 139, 365.
Ericht, river, Blairgowrie, i. 134 ; Rattray,
ii. 406.
Erichtside Mill, Rattray, ii. 407.
Eridine House, Kilchrenan and Dalavich,
ii. 27.
Erigarth, bay, Stronsay, ii. 519.
Erines, mansion, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Eriska, isle, in Ardchattan, i. 61.
Eriskay, isle, in South Uist, i. 403.
Erisort, loch, Lochs parish, ii. 199, 200.
Erkless Castle, Kilmorack, i. 112.
Ernan, stream, Strathdon, ii. 512.
Ernespie, seat, Crossmichael, i. 242.
Eroeht, loch and river, Fortingal, i. 448.
Erraid, isle, Mull district, Argyll, ii. 292.
Errickstane-Brae, hill, Dumfries, i. 308.
Errol, parish, Perth, i. 403.
Erskine, parish, Renfrew, i. 405.
Ervary, hill, North Knapdale, ii. 133.
Ervieside Hill, Cockburnspath, i. 206.
Esby, Kirkmichael, ii. 117.
Esk, loch, Cortachy, i. 218.
Esk, river, Dumfriesshire, i. 176 ; Eskdale-
muir, 406 ; Westerkirk, ii. 598, 599.
Esk, river, Edinburghshire, i. 569.
Esk, Black, river, Eskdalemuir, i. 406 ;
Westerkirk, ii. 598.
Esk, North, river, Edzell, i. 395 ; Forfar-
shire, 441 ; Kincardineshire, ii. 71 5 Lo-
gic-Pert, 208.
Esk, North, river, Edinburghshire, i. 391 ;
Lasswade, ii. 153 ; Linton, 185.
Esk, South, river, Dalkeith, i. 263 ; Tem-
ple, ii. 535.
Esk, South, river, Forfarshire ; Cortachy,
i. 218 ; Farnell, 417 ; Kirriemuir, ii. 131 ;
Marytown, 236 ; Oathlaw, 325.
Esk, White, river, Eskdalemuir, i. 406 ;
Westerkirk, ii. 598.
INDEX.
Eskadale, mansion, Kiltarlity, ii. 64.
Eskadale, Wester, hamlet, Kiltarlity, ii. 64.
Eskdale, Dumfriesshire, i. 308.
Eskdalemuir, parish, Dumfries, i. 406.
Eslemont, estate, Ellon, i. 402.
Espedair, burn, Paisley, ii. 342.
Esragan, streams, Ardehattan, i. 62.
Essachossan, glen, Inverary, i. 566.
Esscumhan, cascade, Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Esse-forse, cataract, Kilnmian and Kilmore,
ii. 55.
Essenside, loch, Ashkirk, i. 72.
Esset, burn, Tullyuessle and Forbes, ii. 564.
Essie, Aberdeen. See Khynie.
Essie, Forfar. See Eassie.
Essil, ancient parish, Speymouth, ii. 478.
Essmore, fall, Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Ethie, burn, Cromarty, i. 238.
Ethie House, in Inverkeillor, i. 571-
Ethiebeaton, Monifieth, ii. 264.
Etive, Loch, Ardehattan, i. 61, 69.
Etive, river, Ardehattan, i. 62.
Etterick, North Bute, i. 162, 163, ii. 434.
Etteick, parish, Selkirk, i. 407.
Ettrick Forest, Selkirkshire, ii. 460, 617.
Ettrick-Bridge, in Yarrow, i. 408, ii. 618.
Euchan, stream, Sanquhar, ii. 454.
Eucliar, estuary, Kilniniver aud Kilmelford,
ii. 56, 57.
Evan, river, Moffat, ii. 260.
Evan-Bridge Spa, Moffat, ii. 26 1 .
Evanton, village, Ross and Cromarty, i.
408, ii. 65.
Evelaw, in Westruther, ii. 602.
Evelick, hill, Kilspindie, ii. 61.
Evelix, stream, Dornoch, i. 286.
Evie and Rendall, parish, Orkney, i. 408.
Ewe, isle and loch, in Gairloch, i. 409.
Ewe, river, Poolewe, ii. 380.
Ewes, parish, Dumfries, i. 409.
Ewes, river, Langholm, ii. 146.
Eye, district, island of Lewis, ii. 135.
Eye, loch, in Fearn, i. 420.
Eye, river, Berwickshire, i. 90, 410.
Eyebrochy, isle, Dirleton, i. 282.
Eyemouth, burgh, Berwick, i. 409 — i. 90.
Eynart, Loch, in Strath, ii. 509.
Eynort, Loch, South Uist, ii. 576.
Fadd, Loch, Rothesay, ii. 434.
Faich-Hill, farm, Gartly, i. 466.
Faifley, village, Old Kilpatrick, i. 411, ii.
59, 60.
Fail, in Tarbolton, Ayr, ii. 530.
Failford, in Tarbolton, Ayr, ii. 530, 531.
Fair, isle, Dunrossness, i. 411.
Fairburn Tower, Urray, ii. 586.
Fairemheall, mountain, Durness, i. 342.
Fairfield, seat, Monkton and Prestwick, ii.
271.
Fairgirth, estate, Colvend, i. 215.
Fair Hill, in Hamilton, i. 534.
Fairholme, house, Hamilton, i. 534.
Fairlie, district, in Largs, i. 411, ii. 152.
Fairlie, lands, Dundonald, i. 320.
Fairly, burn, West Kilbride, ii. 24.
Fairly, residence, Newhills, ii. 310.
Fairnington, mansion, Roxburgh parish, ii.
439.
Faisbheinn, mountain, Durness, i. 342.
Faithly, ancient parish, Aberdeen, i. 454.
615
Fala and Soutra, parish, Haddington and
Edinburgh, i. 411.
Faladam, Edinburghshire, i. 142.
Falbey, lake, Parton, ii. 347.
Falcon Hall, Morningside, ii. 280.
Faldonside, house, near Galashiels, i. 459,
460.
Falfearnie, rivulet, Cortaehy, i. 218.
Falfield, Kilconquhar, ii. 29.
FALKIRK, burgh, Stirlingshire; history,
i. 412 ; description of the town, 413 ;
trade and manufactures, 414 ; parish,
414 ; ecclesiastical affairs, 415.
Falkland, parish and burgh, i. 416.
Falloch, river, Killin, ii. 37.
Falside, lands, Tranent, ii. 559.
Falside Brae, Inveresk, ii. 295.
Fankerton, village, Denny, i. 417 — i- 278.
Fannich, mountain, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Fannyside Muir, Cumbernauld, i. 250.
Fans, village, Earlstoun, i. 417 — i. 352.
Farat, isle, in Walls, Orkney, i. 417.
Fare Hill, Echt, i. 356 ; Midmar, ii. 254.
Farg, stream, Arngask, i. 70 ; Dron, 291.
Farme, mansion, Rutherglen, ii. 442.
Farnell, parish, Forfar, i. 417— i. 222.
Farnilee, estate, Galashiels, i. 460.
Farnua, ancient parish, Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Farout Head, Durness, i. 342.
Fan-, house, Daviot and Dunlichty, i. 274.
Farr, parish, Sutherland, i. 417.
Farragon, hill, Dull, i. 301.
Farralarie, lake, Golspie, i. 511.
Farrer, river, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Faskally, in Moulin, ii. 284.
Farskane's Cave, Rathven, ii. 406.
Faskine, village, Old Monkland, i. 419, ii.
269.
Faslane, castle, Row parish, ii. 437.
Fasuacloich, lake, Ardehattan, Argyll, i. 62.
Fasnacloich, mansion, Lismore and Appin,
ii. 190.
Fasnacoil, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Fasque, mansion, Fettercaim, i. 425.
Fassfern, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Fast Castle, Coldingham, i. 209.
Fatlips Castle, Minto, ii. 259.
Fatlips Castle, Symington, ii. 526.
Faungrass, stream, Greenlaw, i. 521.
Fawside, cottage, Kinneff, ii. 84.
Fea, Brae of, in Cross and Burness, i. 240.
Fearn, parish, Forfar, i. 419.
Fearn, parish, Ross and Cromarty, i. 420.
Feam, Easter, burn, Edderton, i. 359.
Fearn, Mid, in Edderton, i. 420.
Fearns, Ross and Cromarty, i. 359.
Fechley, in Towie, ii. 558.
Fedderate, castle, New Deer, i. 275.
Fedinch, isle, Newburgh, ii. 306.
Fendoch, camp, Monzie, ii. 276.
Fenella, castle, Fettereairn, i. 424.
Fenella, hill, in Fordoun, i. 436, 437.
Fens, farm, St. Boswell's, i. 146.
Fenton, village, Dirleton, i. 420.
Fenton, West, farm, Dirleton, i. 282, 283.
Fenton Tower, North Berwick, i. 123.
Fenwick, parish, Ayr, i. 420.
Fenzies, loch, Lethendy and Kinloch, ii. 1 73.
Feochan, loch, Kilmore and Kilbride, ii. 51.
Feoline, in Jura, Argyll, i. 591.
Ferdun, burn, Fordoun, i. 436.
Fereneze, in Neilston, ii. 300.
Fergus, loch, Coylton, i. 221.
Fergus, loch, Kirkcudbright, ii. 100, 102.
Fergus, St., parish, Banff, i. 421.
Fergushill, village, Ayrshire, i. 422, ii. 66.
Ferindonuil, Kiltearn, ii. 64.
Ferintosh, lands, Urquhart, ii. 584.
Fernie Castle, Monimail, ii. 265.
Fernie Easter, hamlet, Fife, i. 422.
Ferniegair, hamlet, Lanark, i. 422.
Fernieside, house, Liberton, i. 473.
Fernihurst, castle, Jedburgh, i. 586.
Ferntower, in Crieff, i. 236.
Ferrybank, house, Cupar, i. 256.
Ferryden, village, Forfar, i. 422 — i. 222.
Ferryfield, ferry, in Abernethy, Perth, i. 29.
Ferryfield, works, Bonhill, i. 141.
Ferryhill, lands, Aberdeen, i. 17.
Ferry Hills, Dunfermline, Fife, ii. 398.
Ferryport-on-Craig, parish, Fife, i. 422.
Ferrytown of Cree, burgh, Kirkcudbright,
i. 232.
Fersness, bay, North Isles, Orkney, ii. 373.
Fersness, headland, Eday, ii. 519.
Feshie, stream, in Alvie, Inverness, i. 42.
Fetheland, Northmavine, Shetland, ii. 323,
324.
Fetheray, isle, Dirleton, i. 282, 283.
Fetlar and North Yell, parish, Shetland,
i. 423.
Fetterangus, village, Old Deer, i. 424.
Fettercairn, burgh, Kincardine, i. 424.
Fetteresso, parish, Kincardine, i. 425 — i. 9.
Fetternear, old parish, Aberdeen, i. 463.
Feuchan, loch, Kilninver and Kilmelford, ii.
56.
Feugh, river, Banchory-Ternan, i. 101.
Fiaray, isle, Barra, Inverness, i. 427.
Fiddich, river, Boharm, i. 137, 138 ; Mort-
lach, ii. 280.
Fidrey, isle, Dirleton, i. 427.
Fife-Keith, village, Banff, i. 427, ii- 3.
Fifeness, Crail, i. 225.
FIFESHIRE, i. 427.
Figgate Whins, waste, Portobello, i. 297, »•
386.
Fillan, river, Killin, ii. 37.
Fillans, St., village, Perth, i. 429.
Fillan's, St., Chair, in Strathfillan, ii. 514.
Finavon. See Oathlaw.
Fincastle, district, Dull, i. 301.
Findhorn, loch, Kinloss, ii. 82.
Fiudhom, river, Ardclach, i. 63 ; Dyke and
Moy, 346 ; Ediukillie, 392 ; Findhorn
town, 429 ; Moy and Dalrossie, ii. 286.
Findhorn, town, in Kinloss, i. 429.
Findlater, Fordyce, i. 437, 438.
Findochty, village, Banff, i. 429.
Findogask, Perth. See Nether Gash.
Findon, estate, Urquhart, ii. 584.
Findon, village, Kincardine, i. 429 — i. 100.
Findrack, seat, Lumphanan, ii. 219.
Findrassie, lands, New Spynie, ii. 481, 482.
Fine, Loch, Argyll, i. 69, 70.
Finfan, in Urquhart, ii. 581.
Fingal, Cave of, Staffa, ii. 482.
Fingal's Stairs, Morvern, ii. 283.
Fingask Castle, Kilspindie, ii. 61.
Fingask, mansion, Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Finhaven. See Oathlaic.
Finlarig Castle, Killin, ii. 37.
Finlas, Loch, in Straiton, ii. 506.
Finlass, river, Luss, ii. 222.
Finlayston, mansion, Kilmalcolm, ii. 39.
Finnan, isle, Ardnamurchan, i. 65.
INDEX.
Finnan, village, Kincardine, i. 429.
Finnich, mansion, Drynieu, i. 297.
Fixxiestox, suburb of Glasgow, i. 430.
Fixxyfold, Aberdeen. See Whinnie-Fauld.
Fixtray, parish, Aberdeen, i. 430.
Fixtry, parUh, Stirling, i. 430.
Fintry, village, Monifieth, ii. 264.
Finzean, mansion, Birse, i. 130.
Fiona ven, hill, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Fir Hill, Colinton, i. 211.
Firth, seat, Lasswade, ii. 429.
Firth and Stenxess, parish, Orkney, i. 431.
Fir-tree, burn, Urquhart, ii. 582.
Fisherrow, Edinburgh. See Narthesk, and
Musselburgh.
Fisherton, Maybole, ii. 241.
Fish Holm, isle, in Delting, i. 432.
Fishinish, in Torosay, ii. 551, 552.
Fishwiek, old parish, Hutton, i. 553.
Fishwives' Causeway, Portobello, ii. 386.
Fitfill, hi Dunrossness, i. 338.
Fitrall Head, Argyll, i. 214.
Fithie, burn, in Tealing, ii. 533.
Fithie, lake, Forfar, i. 440.
Fittick, St., Nigg parish, ii. 317-
Fitty, hills, Westray, ii. 600.
Fitty, loch, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Five Kirks of Eskdale, lands, Dumfries, i.
406.
Flada, isle, hi Kiluiuir, Inverness, i. 432, ii.
53.
Flada-Wheix, isle, in Kilmuir, i. 432.
Fladda, isle, in Barra, Inverness, i. 432.
Fladda, isle, in Portree, Isle of Skye, i. 432.
Fladda Sound, Barra, i. 107.
Fladdaehuain, isle, Kilmuir, ii. 53.
Fladday, isle, in Harris, i. 432.
Flanders Moss, Stirling, i. 296.
Flaxxan, isles, in Lewis, i. 432.
Flass, lands, Westruther, ii. 602.
Flatfield, in Errol, i. 404.
Flatt, in Glassford, i. 500.
Flawcraig, hamlet, Kinnaird, i. 433.
Fleet, loch, Golspie, i. 511.
Fleet, river, Rogart, ii. 423.
Fleet, river and bay, Kirkcudbright ; An-
woth, i. 54 ; Gatehouse, 470; Girthon, 473.
Flemington, loch, Pettie, ii. 371, 372.
Flemington House, Pettie, ii. 371.
Flemington-MiU, stream, Newlands, ii. 311.
Flint Hill, Stobo, ii. 498.
Flisk, parish, Fife, i. 433.
Fliskmill, farm, in Fiisk, i. 433.
Float, Bay of, Stoneykirk, ii. 501.
Flodda, isle, in Barra, Inverness, i. 433.
Flode, in Criech, Sutherland, i. 234.
Floors, hills, Avondale, i. 84.
Floors, park, Kelso, ii. 8.
Floita, Orkney. See Walls and Flotta.
Flotta-Calf, isle, Walls and Sandness, ii. 589.
Flow, in Falaand Soutra, i. 412.
Flowerburn, mansion, Rosemarkie, ii. 426.
Fludha, residence, Kirkcudbright, ii. 102.
Fochabers, village, Elginshire, i. 433 — i.l 16.
Fodderlee, in Hobkirk, i. 543.
Fodderty, parish, Ross and Cromarty, i. 434.
Foco, parish, Berwick, i. 435.
Foile, rivulet, Aberfoyle, Perth, i. 24.
Foodie, hill, Fifeshire, i. 260.
Forbes, Aberdeen. See Tullynessh.
Ford, estate, Crichton, ii. 347.
Furdel, in Dalgety, i. 261, 272.
Fordel, lands, in Arngask, i. 70.
616
Fordel-Square, village, in Dalgety, i. 436.
Fordoux, parish, Kincardine, i. 436.
Fordyce, parish, Banff, i. 437.
Foreman, hill, Forgue, i. 444.
Fore Part, vale, Monzie, ii. 276.
Forest, The, Birse, i. 130.
Forest, The, Harris, i. 536.
Forest-Mill, in Alloa, Clackmannan, i. 38.
Forest-of- Lewis, peninsula, Lochs parish, ii.
200.
FORFAR, burgh, i. 438.
FORFARSHIRE, i. 440.
Forg ax, parish, Fife, i. 441 .
Forgaxdexny, parish, Kinross and Perth,
i. 442.
Forglen, parish, Banff, i. 443.
Forgue, parish, Aberdeen, i. 444.
Formal, Knock of, hill, Lintrathen, ii. 187.
Forneth, seat, Clunie, i. 203.
Fornighty, in Ardclach, Nairn, i. 63.
Forres, burgh, Elgin, i. 444, ii. 82.
Forsa, stream, Torosay, ii. 551.
Forse, Latheron, ii. 155.
Forss, river, Reay, ii. 409.
Forss House, Thurso, ii. 539.
Fort, rock, Dysart, i. 349.
Fort, St., estate, Forgan, i. 441, 442.
Fort-Augustus, village, Inverness, i. 446.
Fort-Charlotte, Lerwick, ii. 168.
Fort-George, Inverness, i. 174.
Fort Hill, lands, Dun, i. 309.
Fort-William, village, Inverness, i. 446,
ii. 41.
Fortar, castle, Glenisla, i. 507.
Forteviot, parish, Perthshire, i. 446.
Forth, river, Aberfoyle, i. 24, 25 ; Clack-
mannan, 199 ; Drymen, 296 ; Perthshire,
ii. 365 ; Stirlingshire, 495.
Forth, village, in Carnwath, i. 447.
Forth and Clyde Canal, i. 488.
Forthar, Kettle, ii. 15.
Forthy, river, Arbuthnott, i. 59.
Fortixgal, parish, Perth, i. 447.
Fortissat, seat, Shotts, i. 119.
Fortrose, town, Ross and Cromarty, i. 450.
Forvie, Aberdeenshire. See Slains.
Foss, district, in Dull, and in Fortingal, i.
450— i. 301.
Fossoway, parish, Kinross and Perth, i. 450.
Fothringham, house, Inverarity, i. 565.
Foudland, hill, Insch, i. 563, 564.
Foula, isle, in Walls and Sandness, i. 452.
Foulden, parish, Berwick, i. 452.
Foulshiels, near Yarrowford, ii. 619.
Fouxtainhall, hamlet, Stow, i. 452.
Fountainhall, lands, Pencaitland, ii. 351.
Four-Towns of Lochmaben, ii. 198, 471.
Foverax, parish, Aberdeen, i. 452.
Fowlis, Easter, estate, Leochel and Cushnie,
ii. 166.
Fowlis, Wester, estate, Leochel and Cushnie,
ii. 166.
Fowlsheugh, in Dunnottar, i. 336.
Fowlshiels, Selkirk parish, ii. 460.
Foxhall, estate, Kirkliston, ii. 110.
Foyers, falls, Boleskine, i. 579-
Fraisgill, cavern, in Durness, ii. 549.
Fraoeheilein, castle, Glenorchy, i. 509.
Fraochy, Loch, Dull, i. 301 ; Kenmorc, ii.
11.
FRASERBURGH, town, Aberdeen, i. 454.
Free Church, New College, Edinburgh, i.
382.
Freefield, mansion, Rayne, ii. 408.
Freeland, mansion, Forgandenny, i. 443.
Frenchland Tower, Moffat, ii. 261.
Frendaught, mansion, Forgue, i. 444.
Freswick, township, in Canisbay, i. 455.
Freuchie, village, Falkland, i. 455.
Friar's Brae, eminence, Linlithgow, ii. 1 84.
Friars' Carse, lands, Dunscore, i. 33K, 339.
Friars' Croft, Dunbar, i. 312.
Friar's Dubbs, Bervie, i. 1 20.
Friartox, hamlet, Perth, i. 455.
Friockheim, village, Forfar, i. 455.
Frisa, loch, Isle of Mull, ii. 292.
Froon, stream, Luss, ii. 222.
Fruid, stream, Tweedsmuir, ii. 568.
Fuday, isle, Barra, Inverness, i. 456.
Fullarton, district, Dundonald, i. 456, ii.
561.
Fulton, fort, Bedrule, i. 113.
Fulwood, in Houston and Killallan, i. 549.
Fungarth, hamlet, Caputh, i. 456.
Funtack, river, Moy and Dalrossie, ii. 287.
Funzie, bay, in Fetlar, i. 423, 424.
Futtie, fishing-village, near Aberdeen, i. 13,
14.
Fyntrack, village, Monifieth, ii. 263.
Fyvie, parish, Aberdeenshire, i. 456 — i. 273.
G
G'aasker, isle, in Harris, Inverness, i. 457.
Gadgirth-Holm, hamlet, Ayr, i. 457.
Gadgirth House, Coylton, i. 221.
Gady, stream, Clatt, i. 201 ; Premnay, ii.
392.
Gaick, forest, Kingussie, ii. 81.
Gair, Kirkpatrick-Fleming, ii. 124.
Gair, bridge over the Eden, St. Andrew's,
i. 48.
Gairloch, parish, Ross and Cromarty, i.
457.
Gairney, or West Gairney, stream, Cleish,
i. 201.
Gairney, East, rivulet, Fossoway, i. 451.
Gaisxey-Bridge, hamlet, Cleish, i. 458.
Gairnside, in Glengairn, i. 508.
Gairsay, isle, Evie and Rendall, i. 458.
Gait, Loch, Galston, i. 460.
Gala, river, Edinburghshire, &c, i. 391, ii.
503.
Gala House, near Galashiels, i. 459.
Galabank, in Annan, i. 52.
Galachlaw, hill, Liberton, ii. 178.
GALASHIELS, town, Roxburgh and Sel-
kirk, i. 458.
Galdry, village, in Balmerino, i. 460 — i. 98.
Gallaberry, station, Dryfesdale, i. 295, 296.
Galla-Know, Oxnam, ii. 336.
Gallan Head, Uig, ii. 573.
Gallant Knowe, Leslie, ii. 171.
Gallatown, village, in Dysart, i. 460.
Gallery, house, Logie-Pert, ii. 209.
Gallo, hills, Westray, ii. 600.
Gallow Drum, in Clunie, i. 204.
Gallow-Flat, in Errol, i. 405.
Gallow-Flat, tumulus, Rutherglen, ii. 443.
Gallow Hill, Banff, i. 103.
Gallow Hill, Crieff, i. 234.
Gallow Hill, Douglas, i. 288.
Gallow Hill, Edzell, i. 396.
Gallow Hill, in Grange, i. 517.
Gallow Hill, in Insch, i. 564.
INDEX.
Gallon' Hill, Leeropt, ii. 159.
Gallon- Hill, Mnnineth, ii. 2C4.
Gallow Hill, Rafford, ii. 400.
Gallon' Hill, eminence, Ruthven, ii. 443.
Galloway, New, town, Kirkcudbright, i.
460.
Galloway House, Sortie, ii. 474.
Gai.lowlaw, hamlet, Forfar, i. 460.
Gallows Hill, Kirkden, ii. 105.
Gallows Hill, in Terregles, ii. 536.
Gallows Knoll, Clatt, i. 201.
Gallows Know, Kinross, ii. 91.
Galston, parish, Ayr, i. 460.
Galtrigil Head, Duirinish, i. 300.
Galtway, lands, Kirkcudbright, ii. 100, 102.
Galval, castle, Boharm, i. 138.
Gamescleuch, castle Ettrick, i. 408.
Gameshope, burn, Tweedsmuir, ii. 568.
Gamhair, river, Fortingal, i. 448.
Garnhuinn, loch, Rothiemurchus, ii. 436.
Gamrie, parish, Banff, i. 461.
Gannachy, bridge, Fettercairn, i. 425.
Garabo.st, in Stornoway parish, Lewis, ii.
503.
Garamount House, Lady parish, Orkney, ii.
138.
Garden, mansion,. Kippen, ii. 95.
Garden of Paradise, Monymusk, ii. 275.
Garden's Mill, Rayne, ii. 408.
Gardenstown, village, Banff, i. 462.
Garder House, Sandsting and Aithsting, ii.
451.
Gardyne Castle, Kirkden, ii. 104.
Gareloch, river, Roseueath, ii. 427.
Gareloch-Head, village, Row, i. 462.
Garfarran, farm, Drymen, i. 297.
Gargill, in Gartsherrie, i. 489.
Gargunnock, parish, Stirling, i. 462.
Garie, stream, Kirriemuir, ii. 131.
Garioch, Chapel of, Aberdeenshire, i. 463
— i. 273.
Gariochsford, Premnay, ii. 392.
Garion, bridge, Dalserf, i. 270.
Garleton Hills, Haddington, i. 527.
Garlies, castle, Minnigaff, ii. 257.
Garliestown, village, Sorbie, i. 465, ii. 473.
Garlogie, in Skene parish, ii. 466.
Garmiston, in Firth and Stenness, i. 432.
Garmond, village, Monquhitter, i. 465, ii.
272.
Garmouth, village, in Speymouth, i. 465.
Garnet Hill, Glasgow, i. 485.
Garngaber, seat, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Garnkirk, Lanarkshire, i. 489.
Garnock, river, Dairy, i. 266, 267 ; Kilbir-
nie, ii. 18.
Garpel, Lochwinnoch, ii. 202.
Garpel, stream, Muirkirk, ii. 291.
Garrallan, house, Old Cumnock, i. 254.
Garrarissa, isle, Craignish, i. 224.
Garrel, ancient parish, Kirkmichael, ii. 116.
Garrel, burn, Kirkmichael, ii. 117-
Garrel, hill, Kilsyth, ii. 62.
Garrick's Haven, Aberdeenshire, i. 22.
Garrier, burn, Kilmaurs, ii. 46.
Garrion Gill, Carluke, i. 180.
Garroch Head, Kingarth, ii. 73, 74.
Garrowhill, mansion, Crossbill, i. 241.
Garry, Loch, Blair-Atholl, i. 132.
Garry, river, Blair-Atholl, i. 132 ; Moulin,
ii. 284.
Garry, river, Auehtergaven, i. 78.
Garscadden, New Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
Vol. I.— 617
Garscube House, New Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
Gart, in Callander, i. 168.
Gartcloss, village, Old Monkland, i. 465, ii.
269.
Garteraig, mansion, Barony parish, Glas-
gow, ii. 464.
Gartgill, in Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Garth, house, Delting, i. 277-
Garthland, estate, Loehwinnoeh, ii. 201,
202, 203.
Garthland, lands, Stoneykirk, ii. 501.
Gartincaber, mansion, Kilmadock, ii. 39.
Gartly, parish, Banff and Aberdeen, i. 465.
Gartmore, district, Perth, i. 466, ii. 387-
Gartmorn Dam, reservoir, in Alloa, i. 38.
Gartness, in Drymen, i. 297.
Gartness, village, Clarkston, i. 200.
Gartsherrie, district, Lanark, i. 466, 489,
ii. 270.
Gartshore, Kirkintilloch, ii. 108, 109.
Gartur, moss, Port of Monteith, ii. 387-
Garturk, hi Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Gartwhinean, Easter and Wester, hamlets,
Fossoway, i. 467.
Garvald, in Dunsyre, i. 341.
Garvald, ancient parish, Kirkmichael, ii.
116, 117.
Garvald, burn, Kilmadock, ii. 38.
Garvald and Bara, parish, Haddington, i.
467.
Garvald Linn, in Eskdalemuir, i. 406.
Garvaldfoot moor, Linton, ii. 186.
Garvamore, Laggan, ii. 140.
Garve, stream, Urray, ii. 585.
Garveld House, Dolphinton, i. 284.
Garvellan, isle, Durness, i. 343.
Garvelloch, islands, Argyll, i. 467.
Garvock, house, Dunning, i. 335.
Gauvock, parish, Kincardine, i. 467-
Gascon Hall, Trinity-Gask, i. 469.
Gask, in Turriff, ii. 567.
Gask, Nether, parish, Perth, i. 468.
Gask, Trinity, parish, Perth, i. 469.
Gask Hill, Collessie, i. 212.
Gasstown, village, Dumfries, i. 469.
Gatehead, hamlet, Kilmaurs, ii. 46.
Gatehouse, residence, Stanley, Perth, ii. 484.
Gatehouse of Fleet, town, Kirkcudbright,
i. 469.
Gateside, hamlet, Kirkgunzeon, i. 470.
Gateside, residence, Newhills, ii. 310.
Gateside, village, Beith, i. 470.
Gateside, village, Neilston, i. 470, ii. 301.
Gattonside, village, Melrose, i. 470.
Gattonside Hills, Melrose, ii. 245.
Gaudy, river, Auchleven, i. 76-
Gavin, stream, in Glengairn, i. 507-
Gayinton, village, Langton, i. 470, ii. 143.
Gawreer, burn, Dreghorn, i. 291.
Gaylet Pot, cavern, Auchmithie, i. 77-
Geam, Loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Geanach, Mount, Birse, i. 130.
Geanies, seat, Tarbat, ii. 529.
Gear-Abhain, river, Morvern, ii. 283.
Gear-Amhuinn, stream, Inverary, i. 566.
Geary Pot, in St. Vigean's, ii. 587-
Geddes House, Nairn, ii. 299.
Geilstone-Bridge, village, Cardross, i. 470
— i. 178.
Gelah, hamlet, in Fair, i. 411.
Gellan, hill, Coull, i. 219.
Gelland, hill, Carnbee, i. 183.
Gellie, loch, Fife, i. 428.
Gelston, village, Kelton, i. 470, ii. 10.
Gelston Castle, seat, Kelton, ii. 9.
Gelt, stream, Auchinleck, i. 76.
Gennerhill, lands, Avondale, i. 84.
Genoch, mansion, Old Luce, ii. 218.
Georgetown, village, Dumfries, i. 471-
Georgetown, village, Rannoch, ii. 401.
Gerloch, harbour, Lismore aud Appin, ii.
189.
Germain's, St., in Gladsmuir, i. 476.
Germain's, St., seat, Tranent, ii. 559.
Germanus, St., lake, New Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
Gibbet Know, in Clunie, i. 204.
Gibbiestown, hamlet, Methven, i. 471.
Gibliston, house, Carnbee, i. 183.
Gibson's Crag, Fossoway, i. 467.
Gibsontown, house, Tundergarth, ii. 565.
Giddes Well, in Tweedsmuir, ii. 568.
Giffen, barony, Beith, i. 113.
OiiFFORD, village, in Yester, i. 471.
Gifford Water, Bolton, i. 140.
Giffordgait, near Haddington, i. 529.
Giffordton, hamlet, Collessie, i. 471.
Gigha, isle, Barra, Inverness, i. 472.
GiGHA and Cara, parish, Argyll, i. 471. '
Gight, burn, Methlick, ii. 250.
Gight, Bog of, Fochabers, i. 434.
Gight Castle, in Fyvie, i. 457-
Gightyburn, stream, Kinnell, ii. 85.
Gigulum, isle, Gigha and Cara, i. 472.
Gil, burn, Borrowstounness, i. 144.
Gilbertfield, house, Cambuslang, i. 170.
Gilcomston, district, Aberdeen, i. 472.
Giles, St. See Edinburgh.
Gilkerscleugh, in Crawfordjohn, i. 231.
Gillesbie, in Hutton and Corrie, i. 554.
Gillies Hills, St. Ninians, ii. 319.
Gilliestongues, in Jedburgh, i. 588.
Gill-Knoeky, in Canobie, i. 176.
Gills, township, Canisbay, i. 473.
Gilmerton, district, Liberton, i. 473, ii. 178-
Gilmerton, seat, Athelstaneford, i. 74.
Gilmerton, village, Fowlis Wester, i. 473.
Gilmillscroft, seat, Sorn, ii. 475.
Gilp, Loch, South Knapdale, ii. 135, 195.
Gilston, New, village, Largo, i. 473.
Girdleness, headland, Nigg, ii. 318.
Girgenti, residence, Stewarton, ii. 488.
Girlsta, loch, Tingwall, ii. 542.
Girnag, mountain, Blair-Atholl, i. 132.
Girnigoe, castle, Wick, ii. 609, 610.
Girthgate, road, Melrose, ii. 244.
Girth-Head, Wamphray, ii. 591 .
Girtiion, parish, Kirkcudbright, i. 473.
Girvau, river, Girvan parish, i. 474 ; Kirk-
michael, ii. 115 ; Straiton, 506.
GIRVAN, town and parish, Ayrshire, i.
474— i. 106.
Givel, stream, Avondale, i. 84.
Glack, hamlet, Methven, i. 475.
Glack, mansion, Daviot, i. 273.
Glack of Newtyle, Newtyle parish, ii. 316.
Glackharnis, pass, Banff, i. 27.
Glackindaline, bay, Kilninian, ii. 577-
Gladefield House, Kincardine, ii. 68.
Gladehouse, stream, Temple, ii. 535.
Gladsmuir, parish, Haddington, i. 475.
Glaidney, or Glaidney-Cotton, Cupar, i.
477.
Glaissean, Loch, Kilmichael-Glassary, ii. 47-
Glaisters, farm, Kirkgunzeon, ii. 389.
Glamich, hill, Skye, ii. 467-
Glammis, parish, Forfar, i. 477-
4K
INDEX.
Glammis Tower, Kinghorn, ii. 75.
Glasbhein, mountain, Kintail, ii. 92.
Glaschoiren Hill, Argyll, i. 65.
Glasehul, in Towie, ii. 558.
Glaschine, castle, Blairgowrie, i. 135.
Glasford, Lanark. See Glassfwd.
Glasgoego, mansion, Kinnellar, ii. 86.
GLASGOW, i. 478 :—
Early History, 478.
Events of the 15th Century, 479.
Of the 16th, 479.
Oi the 17th, 480.
And of the 18th and 19th Centuries,
481.
General Description of the City, 483
Lighting, Supply of Water, &c., 484.
Libraries, 485.
Literary and Scientific Institutions, 485.
Places of Amusement, 486.
Trade and Commerce : origin and
progress of the various kinds of
Manufacture, 486.
Business of the Port : Shipping, Cus-
toms, Harbour, &c, 487.
Steam Navigation, 488.
Forth and Clyde, Monkland, and John-
stone Canals, 488.
Edinburgh, Garnkirk, Ayr, and Green-
ock Railways, 489.
Public Buildings connected with Trade :
the Exchange, 489.
Corn Exchange and other Markets,
490.
Municipal Affairs, 491.
Public Buildings connected with Mu-
nicipal Affairs, 491.
Merchants' House, Trades' House, Pri-
sons, 492.
Origin and progress of the Univer-
sity, 492.
Its Government ; Professors, Bursa-
ries, &c, 493.
Buildings of the University, 494.
The Andersonian Institution, 494.
Ecclesiastical Affairs : Parishes,
Churches, &c, 494.
The Cathedral, 494.
Parishes in the City, 495.
Former Quoad Sacra Parishes, 496.
Barony Parish, 496.
Necropolis, 496.
Schools and Benevolent Institutions,
497.
The High School, 497.
The Royal Infirmary, 497-
Lunatic Asylum, Magdalen Asylum,
Lock Hospital, and St. Nicholas'
Hospital, 497.
Hutcheson's Hospital, 498.
Charitable Societies and Bequests, 498.
The Town Hospital, 498.
Glasgow and Edinburgh railway, i. 379.
Glasnock House, Old Cumnock, i. 254.
Glasnock, river, Old Cumnock, i. 253, 254.
Glass, Isle of. See Scalpay, Inverness.
Glass, loch, Kiltearn, ii. 64.
Glass, parish, Aberdeen and Banff, i. 499.
Glass, river, Kiltarlity, ii.63.
Glassary. See Kilmichael-Glassary.
Glassaugh, house, Fordyce, i. 438.
618
Glassel, Banchory-Ternan, i. 100, 101.
Glassert, river, Campsie, i. 198.
Glassert, stream, Dunlop, i. 332.
Glasserton, parish, Wigton, i. 499.
Glassford, parish, Lanark, i. 500.
Glassletter, loch, Kintail, ii. 92.
Glassmile, mountain, Glenisla, i. 506.
Glassmount, hill, Kinghorn, ii. 76.
Gleann-chearnach, old parish, i. 344.
Glemassan, Dunoon and Kilmun,i. 337-
Glemsholm, isle, South Ronaldshay, i. 501.
Glen, hamlet, Falkirk, i. 501.
Glen, house, Traquair, ii. 560.
Glen, river, in Lewis, i. 109.
Glenadle, vale, Southend, ii. 478.
Glenae, house, Tinwald, ii. 543.
Glenae, tower, Kirkmichael, ii. 1 17-
Glenaheurich, in Ardnamurchan, i. 65.
Glenaladale, in Moidart, Argyll, i. 65. _
Glenalla, hill, Kirkmichael, ii. 115.
Glenalmond, Perth, i. 235.
Glen-Almond Cottage, Monzie, ii. 276.
Glen-App, Ballantrae, i. 94.
Glenarbuek, seat, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59.
Glenartney, valley, Comrie, i. 215, 216.
Glenary. See Inverary and Glenary.
Glenavon, forest, Banffshire, i. 105, ii. 116.
Glenbarr, mansion, Killean and Kilchenzie,
ii. 34.
Glenbeg, in Glenelg, i. 506.
Glenbervie, parish, Kincardine, i. 501.
Glenbran, district, Perthshire, i. 30.
Glenbrantir, house, Strachur, ii. 505.
Glenbreckry, vale, Southend, ii. 477-
Glenbrennan, hill, Kirkpatrick-Irongray, ii.
124.
Glenbrierachan, vale, Moulin, ii. 84.
Glen-Brook, seat, Currie, i. 258.
Glenbuck, village, Ayrshire, i. 501.
Glenbdcket, parish, Aberdeen, i. 501.
Glenbuckie, Perthshire, i. 99.
Glenburn Hall, Jedburgh, i. 587.
Glencainail, in Torosay, ii. 551.
Glencairn, parish, Dumfries, i. 502.
Glen-Cannich, Kilmorack, ii. 49.
Glencaple-Quay, village, Caerlaverock, i.
502— i. 165.
Glenearse House, Kinfauns, ii. 73.
Glen-Chapel, near Darvel, i. 272.
Glen-Chatt, valley, Birse, i. 130.
Glencloy, Kilbride, ii. 21, 22.
Glencoe, district, Argyllshire, i. 502, ii.
189.
Glen-Convinth, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Glencreran, in Lismore and Appin, ii. 189.
Glencross, or Glencorse, parish, Edin-
burgh, i. 504.
Glen-Darroch, seat, Currie, i. 258.
Glendaruel, lands, Kilmodan, ii. 48.
Glendean, in Traquair, ii. 560.
Glendelvine, house, Caputh, i. 177-
Glendhu, loch, Eddrachillis, i. 360, 361.
Glen-Dindal, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Glendinning, lands, Westerkirk, ii. 598, 599.
Glendochart, vale, Killin, ii. 37.
Glendoick House, Kinfauns, ii. 73.
Glendorch, in Crawfordjohn, i. 231.
Glendovan, or Glendevon, parish, Perth,
i. 504.
Glen-Dow, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Glen-Dubh, Morvern, ii. 283.
Glendi/ckie, hamlet, Fife, i. 505 — i. 433.
Glen Duglass, Luss, ii. 222.
Glen-Dye, vale, Strachan, ii. 504, 505.
Gleneagles, in Blackford, i. 131.
Glenearn, mansion, Dron, i. 292.
Glenelchaig, Kintail, ii. 92.
Glenelg, parish, Inverness, i. 505.
Glen-Ennich, tract, Rothiemurchus, ii. 486.
Glen-Etive, Ardchattan, i. 61, 62.
Glen-Euchar, Kilninver and Kilmelford, ii.
56.
Glen-Esk, Kincardineshire, ii. 71.
Glenesk, mansion, Lasswade, ii. 153.
Glenfairness, in Ardclach, i. 63.
Glenfalloch, vale, Killin, ii. 37.
Glenfarg, Abernethy, Perth, i. 29, 30.
Glenfarquhar, Kincardineshire, i. 436.
Glen-Farrar, Kilmorack, ii. 49.
Glen-Fiddich, in Cabraeh, i. 163.
Glenfinart, Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 337.
Glen-Finlass, Luss, ii. 222.
Glenfiunan, Ardnamurchan, i. 66.
Glenfoot, village, in Abernethy, Perth, i.
29.
Glenforsa, in Torosay, ii. 551, 552.
Glen-Fortingal, Perth. See Fortingal.
Glen-Froon, stream, Luss, ii. 222.
Glenfruin, strath, Row parish, ii. 437, 438.
Glengaber, stream, Traquair, ii. 560.
Glengairn. See Glenmuick, Tullich, and
Glengairn.
Glengarnock, lands, Kilbirnie, ii. 18, 19.
Glen-Garr, in Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Glengarry, district, Kilmonivaig, ii. 48.
Glengarry, property, Glenelg, i. 505.
Glen-Gollie, Sutherland, i. 342.
Glengonar, Lanarkshire, i. 230, 231.
Glenhaltin, vale, Skye, ii. 472.
Glenhead, village, Renfrew, i. 506.
Glen Hill, Newabbey, ii. 304.
Glenhinistil, vale, Skye, ii. 472.
Glenholm, Peebles. See Broughton.
Gleniffer Hills, Paisley, ii. 338, 341, 344.
Glenisla, parish, Forfar, i. 506.
Glen-Ketlan, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Glenkill, burn, Kirkmichael, ii. 117.
Glen-Kindy, house, Strathdon, ii. 513.
Glen-Kinglas, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Glen-Latterach, burn, Dallas, i. 263.
Glen-Lednock, valley, Comrie, i. 215, 216.
Glenlee, mansion, Kells, ii. 6.
Glenlich-hom, Muthill, ii. 296.
Glenlivet, district, Inveraven, i. 567, 568.
Glenloehar, in Balmaghie, i. 97.
Glenlochay, Killin, ii. 37.
Glenlogan, seat, Sorn, ii. 475.
Glenlogy, stream, Kirriemuir, ii. 131.
Glenloig, Kilmorie, ii. 52.
Glenloig, stream, Kirriemuir, ii. 131.
Glenlore, mansion, Lochwinnoch, ii. 202.
Glenluce, Wigton. See Luce, Old.
Glenlude, stream, Traquair, ii. 560.
Glenlyon, district, Perth, i. 507 — i- 448,
449.
Glenny-Law, hill, in Abernyte, Perth, i. 31*.
Glenmanow, burn, Penpont, ii. 356.
Glenmarkie, rivulet, Glenisla, i. 500.
Glenmeuble, in Arasaig, Argyll, i. 65.
Glenmill, in Campsie, i. 175.
Glenmillan, seat, Lumphanan, ii. 219.
Glenmore, Inverness-shire, i. 579.
Glenmore, in Torosay, ii. 551.
Glenmore, bay, in Ardnamurchan, Argyll,
i. 64.
Glenmore, forest, Abernethy, i. 28.
INDEX.
Glenmore, seat, Kilninver and Kilmelford,
ii. 57.
Glenmore, stream, Old Cumnock, i. 254.
Glenmore, vale, Auchinleek, i. 75, 76.
Glenmore, valley, Fortingal, i. 448.
Glenmorriston, Inverness. See TJrquhart.
Glenmuick, Tullich, and Glengairn, pa-
rish, Aberdeen, i. 507.
Glen-Noe, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Glenogle, in Tannadice, ii. 529.
Glenorchard, mansion, Baldernock, i. 92.
Glenorchy, district, Leith, ii. 164.
Glenorchy and Inishaii., parish, Argyll, i.
508— i. 61, 70.
Glen-Ormiston, house, Innerleithen, i. 562.
Glenprosen, Kirriemuir, ii. 132.
Glenquaich, district, Weem, ii. 595.
Glenquhargan, Craig of, Penpont, ii. 356.
Gienquiech, house, Tannadice, ii. 528.
Glen-Rannoch. See Rannoch.
Glenrinnes, in Aberlour, Banff, i. 27, 28.
Glen-Rosa, Kilbride, ii. 21.
Glenroy, in Kilmonivaig, ii. 48, 49.
Glen-Salloch, Ardchattan, i. 61, 62.
Glensanda, castle, Lismore and Appin, ii.
190.
Glen-Sannox, Kilbride, ii. 21.
Glen-Sassun, in Fortingal, i. 447.
Glen-Shee, Auchtergaven, i. 78, 79.
Glenshee, Kirkmichael, ii. 117.
Glenshellis, mansion, Strachur, ii. 505.
Glenshiel, parish, Ross and Cromarty, i.
509.
Glenshira, in Inverary, i. 566.
Glenshirra, Laggan, ii. 140.
Glenside, Kirkmichael, ii. 115.
Glenspean, Kilmonivaig, ii. 48.
Glentanner, Aberdeen. See Aboyne.
Glenterra, in Inch, i. 556.
Glentirran, Kippen, ii. 94.
Glentruim House, Laggan, ii. 140.
Glen- Turret, cliffs, Monivaird and Strowan,
ii. 266.
Glentyan House, Kilbarchan, ii. 17-
Glen-Uigg, Skye, ii. 472.
Glen-Ure, Ardchattan, i. 61 ; House, 62.
Glenure House, Strathfillan, ii. 514.
Glen-Urquhart, Inverness-shire, ii. 582.
Glespin, in Crawfordjohn, i. 231.
Glesterlaw, Kinnell, ii. 85.
Gling-Glang, cavern, Reay, ii. 409.
Glomach, waterfall, Kintail, ii. 92.
Glorat House, in Campsie, i. 175.
Gloup, in North Yell, i. 423, 424.
Glow, Loch, Cleish, i. 201.
Glunamore, islet, Southend, Argyll, ii. 476.
Gluss, isle, Shetland, ii. 323.
Goales Den, Kilmany, ii. 41.
Goat-Fell, Arran, i. 163.
Goat-linn, in Eskdalemuir, i. 406.
Goats-Milk Hill, Kinglassie, ii. 78.
Gogar, hamlet, Edinburgh, i. 510 — i. 217,
218.
Gogar, moor, Ratho, ii. 404.
Gogo, river, Largs, ii. 151.
Goil, loch and river, Lochgoilhead, i. 69,
ii. 195.
Goldberrie Head, West Kilbride, ii. 24.
Goldielands, in Hawick, i. 539.
Golfdrum, Dunfermline, i. 325.
Gollachie, in Enzie, i. 403.
Gollanfield, mansion, Pettie, ii. 371.
Golspie, parish, Sutherland, i. 51 1.
619
Golyn, Haddingtonshire, i. 282, 283, 526.
Gometray, isle, Kilninian, i. 512, ii. 55.
Goner, stream, Tyrie, ii. 57 1.
Gonociian, hamlet, Fintry, i. 512.
Goodhope, Johnstone, i. 590.
Goodie, river, Kincardine in Monteith, ii.
69.
Gorbals, parish, Lanark, i. 512.
Gordon, parish, Berwick, i. 512.
Gordon Castle, near Fochabers, i. 434 — i. 116.
Gordon-Mills, hamlet, Kirkmichael and Cul-
licudden, ii. 119.
Gordon, West, village, in Gordon, i. 513.
Gordonsburgh, Inverness. See Fort- William.
Gordonstown, village, Auchterless, i. 513 —
i. 80.
Gordonstown, mansion, Drainie, i. 290.
Gore, stream, Borthwick, i. 145.
Gorebridge, village, Temple, i. 513.
Gorget Tree, in Applegarth, Dumfries, i.
56.
Gormac, burn, Drumoak, i. 294.
Gormloch, in Sutherlandshire, ii. 522.
Gortan, house, Inverchaolain, i. 569.
Gorthleck, in Stratherrick, i. 273.
Gortleg, mansion, Dores, i. 285.
Gorton, mansion, Lasswade, ii. 153.
Gosford, seat, in Aberlady, Haddington, i.
26.
Goul, loch, New Machai', ii. 225.
Gounies, headland, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Gour, loch, Criech, i. 234.
Gourdie, Hill of, Clunie, i. 203.
Gourdoun, village, Bervie, i. 513— i. 117,
120, 121.
Gourock, burn, West Kilbride, ii. 24.
Gourock, district, Renfrew, i. 513.
Govan-hill, in Craig, i. 222.
Govan, Little, in Gorbals, i. 512, 515.
Govan, parish, Lanark, i. 514 — i. 487.
Gowan-Bank, hamlet, Forfar, i. 516, ii.
587.
Gowkhall, village, Fife, i. 516.
Gowkshill, village, Edinburgh, i. 516.
Gowling Hills, Stirling, ii. 491.
Gowrie, district, Perth, ii. 364, 366.
Gozlington, in Stonehouse parish, ii. 500.
Gradenburn, Coldstream, i. 209.
Graeme's Hall, Holm and Paplay, i. 545.
Gr^emsay, isle, Hoy, i. 516, 550.
Graham's Dyke, Falkirk, i. 412 ; Polmont,
ii. 378.
Grahame's Knowe, Newtyle, ii. 317.
Grahamston, Glasgow, i. 430.
Grahamston, village, Falkirk, i. 516 — i. 412,
414.
Grahamstown, village, Neilston, i. 516.
Graigengower, hill, Straiton, ii. 506.
Graitney, parish, Dumfries, i. 516.
Grampians, hills, Kincardineshire, ii. 71 .
Grandholm, near Aberdeen, ii. 617.
Grandtully, district, Dull, i. 301, 302.
Grange, burn, Grangemouth, i. 518.
Grange, estate, Tundergarth, ii. 565.
Grange, hamlet, St. Andrew's, Fife, i. 518.
Grange, hamlet, Errol, i. 518.
Grange, in Burntisland, i. 161.
Grange, mansion, Carriden, i. 519.
Grange, parish, Banff, i. 517.
Grange, seat, Monifieth, ii. 263.
Grange of Conan, near Arbroath, ii. 586.
Grange-Fell, in Tundergarth, ii. 565.
Grangehall, seat, Kinloss, ii. 82, 83.
Grangehill, mansion, Kinghorn, ii. 77.
Grangemouth, sea-port, Stirling, i. 518.
Grangemuir, seat, Anstmther Wester, Fife,
i. 53.
Grangepans, village, Linlithgow, i. 519— i.
186.
Grannoch, Loch, Balmaghie, i. 97.
Granton, near Edinburgh, i. 520 — i. 379,
ii. 163.
Granton, mansion, Moffat, ii. 261.
Grantown, town, Cromdale, i. 520.
GRASSH0USES0fTH0RNT0N,hamlet,G)ammis,
i. 520.
Gray House, Liff and Beuvie, ii. 179.
Graystone, hamlet, Carmylie, i. 520.
Greanoch, loch, Girthon, i. 473.
Great-Cave, in Gigha and Cara, i. 471.
Great Cumbray. See Cumbray, Great. And
all places hating a similar distinguishing pre-
fix will be found under the proper name.
Greatlaws, in Skirling parish, ii. 467.
Greatmoor, mountain, Castleton, i. 190.
Greenan, castle, Maybole, ii. 241.
Greenback, house, Fetlar and North Yell,
i. 424.
Greenburn, in Newhills, ii. 310.
Greencairn, old seat, Fettereairn, i. 425.
Green Castle, in Garvald and Bara, i. 467.
Greencraig, hill, Creich, i. 233.
Greendykes, in Gladsmuir, i. 476.
Greenend, village, Old Monkland, i. 520.
Greengairs, village, New Monkland, i. 520.
Greenhall, Blantyre, i. 136.
Green Hill, Deskford, i. 279.
Greenhill, hamlet, Lochmaben, i. 521.
Greenhill, hill, Strathdon, ii. 512.
Greenhill, in Hounani, i. 548.
Green-hill of Burnside, Rescobie, ii. 417.
Greenhill, seat, Morningside, ii. 280.
Green Holm, isle, Northmavine, i. 520.
Green Holm, isle, Tingwall, i. 520.
Green Holm, Little and Muckle, isles,
Eday, i. 520.
Green Knowe, in Culter, i. 248.
Greenlaw, burgh, Berwick, i. 521— i. 126.
Greenlaw, house, Glencross, i. 504.
Greenlaw, seat, Crossmichael, i. 242.
Greenloaning, village, Perth, i. 522.
Greenoch, stream, Muirkirk, ii. 291.
GREENOCK, sea-port, Renfrew; history, i.
522 ; description of the town, 522 ; trade
and manufactures, 523; municipal affairs,
524 ; parish, 524 ; ecclesiastical affairs,
525.
Greenside, in Bothwell, i. 545.
Greenside, parish, Edinburgh, i. 386.
Greenwell, in Unst, Shetland, ii. 580.
Greenyard, river, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Greenyards, St. Ninian's, ii. 320.
Greetness, in Dunrossness, i. 338.
Greeto Water, Largs, ii. 151.
Gregness, headland, Nigg, ii. 317.
Greinord, isle, Lochbroom, i. 526.
Gremista, villa, Lerwick, ii. 168.
Grennan, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Grennan Hill, Kirkmaiden, ii. 113.
Gress, district, in Stornoway parish, Lewis,
ii. 503.
Gress, river, Stornoway, Lewis, ii. 502.
Gretna-Green, in Graitney, i. 517.
Grey- Friars, Old and New, parishes. See
Edinburgh.
Grey Friars, parish. See Aberdeen.
4K2
INDEX.
Grey-head, Canisbay, i. 175.
Grey Mare's Tail, cataract, ii. 261.
Grey Mare's Tail, fall, Closeburn, i. 202.
Greystonlees, quarry, Berwickshire, i. 91.
Gribun, district, Isle of Mull, ii. 292, 293.
Griceness, headland, Stronsay, ii. 519.
Grieshernish, Loch, Duirinish, i. 299, 300.
Grimbister, Holm of, in Firth, i. 545.
Grimsay, isle, North Uist, i. 526.
Grimshadir, loch, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Grimsta, rivulet, Uig, ii. 573.
Groat, isle, Harris, i. 526.
Grog, loch, Cadder, i. 164.
Grougar, barony, Kilmarnock, ii. 43.
Grove, seat, Kirkpatriek-lrongray, ii. 125.
Grovemount, house, Hamilton, i. 534.
Gruagach, castle, Ross and Cromarty, i. 285.
Grucula, in Shapinshay, Orkney, ii. 461.
Grudy, river, Durness, i. 342.
Grugaig, burn, Edderton, i. 359.
Gruinard, isle, Lochbroom, i. 526.
Gruinard, loch, Kilchoman, ii. 26.
Grunay, isle, Skerries, Shetland, ii. 466.
Grating, harbour, Sandsting and Aithsting,
ii. 450.
Grating Voe, in Fetlar, i. 423.
Gryfe, river, Houston, i. 549 ; Inchinnan,
558.
Gryfe-Grove, in Houston, i. 549.
Guallan, hill, Drymen, i. 296.
Guard, bridge over the Eden, St. Andrew's,
i. 48.
Guidie, stream, Port of Monteith, ii. 387.
Guildie, village, Monikie, i. 526.
Guildiemuir, village, Monikie, i. 526.
Guildtown, village, St. Martin, i. 526, ii.
234.
Guisachan, mansion, Kiltarlity, ii. 64.
Gulane, village, Haddington, i. 526— i. 282.
Gulberwick, ancient parish, Tingwall, il. 541.
Gumscleugh, hill, Traquair, ii. 560.
Gunister, isle, Northmavine, i. 526, ii. 323.
Gunna, isle, Tirce, i. 526.
Gunnie, in Old Monkiand, ii. 269.
Gunsgreen, Ayton, i. 90.
Gushet, lands, near Glasgow, i. 44,
Guthrie, parish, Forfar, i. 526.
Guynd, house, Carmylie, i. 183.
Gwendall, barony, Wandell, ii. 592.
Gylen Castle, Kilmore and Kilbride, ii. 51.
Gynag, river, Kingussie, ii. 81.
Gyran, hill, Sandwick, ii. 451.
H
Haaf-Grunie, isle, Unst, ii. 579.
Haa-ton House, Lumphanan, ii. 220.
Habchester, camp, Ayton, i. 91.
Ha' burn, in Deskford, Banff, i. 280.
HackWood, bum, Wandell, ii. 592.
Haddenrig, height, Sprouston, ii. 480, 481.
Hadden-Stank, Sprouston, ii. 481.
HADDINGTON, burgh, i. 527.
HADDINGTONSHIRE, i. 529.
Haddo, house, Forgue, i. 444.
Haddo, seat, Crimond, i. 237.
Haddo House, Methlick, ii. 250.
Haer Cairns, Letliendyand Kiuloch, ii. 173.
Haer Faads, Inverarity, i. 565.
Hafton House, Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 337.
Hagenhope, stream, Newlands, ii. 311.
HaOOS, district, in Denny, i. 530.
620
Haggs, lauds, Govan, i. 514, 516.
Hailes, Edinburgh, i. 210.
Hailes, Prestonkirk, ii. 393.
Hailes, New, house, in Inveresk, i. 570.
Hailes-Quarry, village, Colinton, i. 530.
Haining, castle, Muiravonside, ii. 289.
Haining, near Yarrowford, ii. 619.
Hairlaw, reservoir, Neilstou, ii. 300.
Hairnish-An-Tuim, cave, Knockando, ii. 136.
Halbeath, village, Dunfermline, i. 530.
Halbury, castle, Kildonan, ii. 30.
Halfdavoch, in Edinkillie, i. 393.
Halfmorton, parish, Dumfries, i. 530, ii.
146.
Halkerton, lands, Laurencekirk, ii. 158.
Halket, loch, Dunlop, i. 332.
Halkirk, parish, Caithness, i. 530.
Halladale, river, Reay, ii. 409.
Hallbar, in Carluke, i. 181.
Hall-dykes, in Dryfesdale, i. 296.
Halleaths, Lochmaben, ii. 198.
Hall- Forest Castle, Kintore, ii. 92.
Hallgreen, castle, Bervie, i. 120.
Hall-Guards, in Hoddam, i. 544.
Hallhead, estate, Leochel and Cushnie, ii.
166, 167.
Hall Hill, in Collessie, i. 213.
Hall Hill, Lochwinnoch, ii. 201.
Hallliill House, in Glassford, i. 500.
Hallidown Hill, Berwick-on- Tweed, i. 124,
125.
Hall Meadow, Annan, i. 51.
Hallmyre Bog, Newlands, ii. 311.
Hallyards, in Auchtertool, i. 81.
Hallyards, lands, Kirkliston, ii. 1 10.
Hallyards, mansion, Manor parish, ii. 230.
Hallyburton House, Kettins, ii. 14.
Hallydean, lordship, Kelso, ii. 8.
Halsery, in Watten, ii. 595.
Halterburn, farm, Yetholm, ii. 622.
Halvera, isle, Shetland, i. 531 — i. 153, 162.
Halvera, Little, isle, Shetland, i. 532.
Haly Hill, in Forteviot, i. 447-
Haly Ness, Dunrossness, Shetland, ii. 452.
Ham, haven, Dunnet, i. 333.
Ham, in Foula, Shetland, i. 452.
Hamer, old parish, Haddington, ii. 604.
HAMILTON, burgh, Lanark, i. 532.
Hamilton-Farme, Rutherglen, ii. 442, 443.
Hamilton Hill, Glasgow, i. 488.
Hammer, residence, Shetland, ii. 463.
Hamna Voe, Northmavine, ii. 323, 324.
Handa, isle, Eddrachillis parish, i. 535— i.
360, 361.
Hauderick, promontory, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Handexwood, estate, West Calder, i. 167-
Hangcliff, headland, Ness isle, Shetland, ii.
302.
Hanged Men's Trees, Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Hang-hill, Carluke, i. 181.
Hanging Bridge, Penpont, ii. 355.
Hangingshaw Law, Yarrow, ii. 618.
Hanginshaw, village, Cathcart, i. 535.
Hanna Voe, Papa-Stour, Shetland, ii. 346.
Hapland, burn, Durisdeer, i. 342.
Harbour Craig, Carlops, i. 180.
Harburn, estate, Calder, i. 167.
Harcarse, in Fogo, Berwick, i. 436.
Hardacres, eminence, Eccles, i. 355, 356.
Harden, mansion, Rohcrton, ii. 422.
Hardgate, hamlet, Urr, i. 536.
Hakdgate, village, Old Kilpatrick, i. 535,
ii. 59.
Hardies Mill, Stitchell and Hume, ii. 498.
Hardington House, Wiston, ii. 616.
Hare-Cairn, tumulus, Monikie, ii. 265.
Harelaw Moor, Westruthers, ii. 601.
Harelaw Tower, Canobie, i. 176.
Harestanes, Old, Kirkurd, ii. 128.
Harits Dyke, in Westruther, ii. 602.
Harker Rocks, Ayton, i. 90.
Harlamuir, Linton, ii. 186.
Harlaw, in Chapel of Garioch, i. 463.
Harold's Tower, Thurso, ii. 539.
Haroldswick, bay, Unst, ii. 578.
Harpercroft, farm, Dundonald, i. 321.
Harray, Orkney. See Birsay and tlarrcuj.
Harris, parish, in Lewis, i. 536.
Harrow, loch, Kells, ii. 6.
Hartfell, in Tweedsmuir, ii. 568.
Hartfell Spa, Moffat, ii. 261.
Harthill, castle, Oyne, ii. 337-
Harthill, village, Shotts, i. 536 — i. 119.
Hartside, barouy, Wandell, ii. 592, 593.
Hart's Leap, Yarrow, ii. 617-
Hartwood, house, West Calder, i. 167.
Harvieston House, Borthwick, i. 145.
Harviestoun, house, Tillicoultry, ii. 541.
Hascussay, isle, Shetland, i. 536.
Hassendean, hamlet, Minto, i. 537, ii- 258,
259.
Hassington, village, in Eccles, i. 355.
Hassock, lands, Minnigaff, ii. 257.
Hatton, estate, Ratho, ii, 403, 404.
Hatton, farm-house, Marykirk, ii. 235.
Hatton, hill, Newtyle, ii. 316 ; castle, 317.
Hatton, Kinnell, ii. 85.
Hatton Castle, in Turriff, ii. 567.
Haugh, village, Mauchline, i. 537-
Haugh, village, Urr, i. 537.
Haughead, mansion, Eckford, i. 358.
Haugh-Head, village, Campsie, i. 537-
Haugh-Mill, village, Markinch, i. 537-
Haughs, farm, Inveraven, i. 568.
Haughs of Nether Beuholme, i. 117.
Haughton, seat, in Alford, Aberdeen, i. 36.
Haven, East, village, Panbride, i. 537, ii-
345.
Haven, West, village, Panbride, i. 537, ii-
345.
Havera, Shetland, See Halvera.
Hawick, town, Roxburgh, i. 537.
Hawkeshead, Paisley, ii. 342, 344.
Hawkhall, in Forgue, i. 444.
Hawkhill, mansion, Rosemarkie, ii. 420.
Hawkhill, villa, Largs, ii. 152.
Hawkshaw, lands, Tweedsmuir, ii. 568.
Hawkshill, Luuan, ii. 220.
Hawkstone, hamlet, St. Madoes, i. 539, ii.
227.
Hawkwood, hill, Avondale, i. 84.
Hawthornden, seat, Lasswade, ii. 153, 154.
Haxalgate, road, Melrose, ii. 247.
Haylie, Largs, ii. 152.
Hayocks, mansion, Stevenston, ii. 487-
Haystone, burn, Peebles, ii. 349.
Hazelbank, village, Lesmahago, i. 539.
Hazelden, Mearns, ii. 242.
Hazelhead, mansion, Newhills, ii. 310.
Hazlehead, in Beith, i. 115.
Hazlelaw, in Muiravonside, ii. 290.
Hazzledeu, in Cameron, i. 172.
Heacla, mountain, South Uist, ii. 575.
Headlecross, in Cambusnethan, i. 171.
Headshaw, loeb, Ashkirk, i. 72.
Headswood Cottage, in Denny, i. 279.
INDEX.
Heathcote, mansion, Maryculter, ii. 234.
Heather Cow, cairn, Bower, i. 150.
Heatherwic, old parish, Dunbar, i, 312.
Heathery Hall, Govan, i. 515.
Heathryhaugh, seat, Moffat, ii. 261.
Heaven-Aqua, spring, Linton, ii. 185.
Hebrides, islands, i. 539.
Heck, hamlet, Loehmabeu, i. 540.
Hecla, mountain, South Uist, ii. 576.
Hedderwick, lands, Montrose, ii. 274.
Heinish, bay, Tiree, ii. 544.
Heisker, isle, North Uist, i. 540.
Helensburgh, town, in Row and Cardross,
i. 540.
Helesay, isle, Barra, i. 540.
Hell-lum, excavation, Slaius and Forvie, ii.
468.
Hellmoor, lake, Roberton, ii. 422.
Hell's Cleueh, hill, Kirkurd, ii. 127.
Helmsdale, village, Loth, i. 540 — i. 280, ii.
30, 216.
Helshetter, in Reay parish, ii. 410.
Helvels, Greater and Less, Duirinish, i. 299.
Hempriggs House, Wick, ii. 611.
Hempriggs, Loch, in Wick, ii. 610.
Henderland, in Lyne and Megget, ii. 224.
Henderson. Kilmarnock, ii. 43.
Hendersyde, mansion, Ednam, i. 394.
Henwood, stronghold, Oxnam, ii. 336.
Heogaland, holm, Unst, ii. 579.
Herbertshire, village, Dunipace, i. 541 —
i. 278, 327.
Herdmanston, lands, Salton, ii. 448, 449.
Heriot, parish, Edinburgh, i. 541.
Herlaw, cairn, East Kilbride, ii. 24.
Hermand, house, West Calder, i. 167-
Hermanness, headland, Unst, ii. 578.
Hermiston, village, Currie, i. 542.
Hermitage, Castleton, i. 190, 191.
Hermitage, cascade, Kenmore, ii. 12.
Hermitage, Little Dunkeld, i. 331.
Hermitray, isle, Harris, i. 542.
Herriotfield, hamlet, Monzie, i. 542.
Herriotfield, village, Moneydie, ii. 263.
Herriot's Dyke, Greenlaw, i. 521.
Heryeth, ancient parish, Edinburgh, i. 541.
Heston, isle, Rerrick, i. 542, ii. 416.
Heughead, in Coldingham, i. 209.
Heugh-Head, in Strathdon, ii. 513.
Heugh Well, Blairgowrie, i. 135.
Hieton, village, Roxburgh, i. 542.
Higgin's Neuck, ferry, Airth, Stirling, i. 35.
High-Bridge, Kilmonivaig, ii. 48.
Ilighchesters, farm, Roberton, ii. 422.
Highfield House, Urray, ii. 586.
Hightae, village, Lochmaben, i. 542, ii. 198,
199.
High- Work, mines, Leadhills, ii. 159.
Hildasay, isle, Tingwall, i. 542.
Hilderston, hills, Torphichen, ii. 553.
Hill-Cairnie, mansion, Kilmany, ii. 41.
Hillend, village, Fife, i. 542.
Hillhead, in Carluke, i. 180.
Hillhead, hamlet, Cockpen, i. 542.
Hillhead, village, Leswalt, ii. 172.
Hill House, Kirkmabreck, ii. 111.
Hillhouse, hill, Wandell and Lamming-
toune, ii. 592.
Hillhouse, mansion, Dundonald, i. 320.
Hillhouse, seat, Kirknewton and East Cal-
der, ii. 120.
Hillhousefield, barony, Leith, ii. 1 64.
Hillowton, seat, Crossmichael, i. 242.
621
Hills, The, castle, Lochrutton, ii. 199.
Hillside, lands, Edinburgh, i. 373.
Hillside, mansion, in Aberdour, Fife, i. 24.
Hillswick, Northmavine, i. 542, ii. 323.
Hillyland, village, Tibbermore, i. 542.
Hilton, Berwick. See Whitsome.
Hilton, estate, Fodderty, i. 435.
Hilton, hamlet, Inverness, i. 542.
Hilton, house, Aberdeen, ii. 617-
Hilton, house, Cupar, i. 256.
Hiltown, village, Fearn, i. 542 — i. 420.
Hirsel, barony, Coldstream, i. 209, 210.
Hirst, hill, Shotts, i. 119.
I Hirst, in Cumbernauld, i. 250.
Hirta, isle. See Kllda, St.
Hislop, near Hawick, i. 539.
Hoan, isle, Durness, i. 343.
Hoardwell, estate, Bunlde, i. 159.
Hobbie Ker's Cave, in Eckford, i. 358.
Hobkirk, parish, Roxburgh, i. 542.
Hoddam, parish, Dumfries, i. 543— i. 252.
Hog's Hole, in Arbuthnott, i. 60.
Holburn, district, Aberdeen, i. 544.
Holburn Head, Thurso, ii. 538, 539.
Holehouse, hill, Kirkmichael, ii. 1 17-
Holekettle-Bridge, village, Kettle, i. 544.
Hollands Bay, Stronsay and Eday, ii. 519.
Hollee, village, Kirkpatrick-Fleming, i. 544.
Holloch, stream, Muiravonside, ii. 290.
Hollows bridge, Canobie, i. 176, 177-
Hollybush, seat, Dalrymple, i. 269.
Ilollylee, in Innerleithen, i. 562.
Holm, haven, Dunnet, i. 333.
Holm, in Westray, Orkney, i. 545.
Holm, mansion, Croy and Dalcross, i. 243.
Holm, plain, Dairy, i. 267.
Holm, residence, Balmaclellan, i. 96.
Holm and Paplay, parish, Orkney, i. 544.
Holm of Grimbister, in Firth, i. 545.
Holm of Houton, in Orphir, i. 545, ii. 333.
Holm of Midgarth, in Stronsay, i. 545.
Holm of Pharay, in Eday, i. 545.
Holm of Puip, in Stronsay, i. 545.
Holm Point, headland, Lewis, ii. 502.
Holm-Head, Kirkpatrick-Fleming, ii. 123.
Holm Sound, Burray, i. 162.
Holmains, castle, Dalton, i. 271.
Holms, isles, Unst, Shetland,]. 545.
Holms, mansion, Galston, i. 461.
Holms Water, in Glenholm, i. 155.
Holton-Square, village, Alloa, i. 545.
Holy Isle, Arran. See Lamlasli.
Holy Islands, in Jura and Colonsay, i. 467.
Holy Isles, Lewis, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
461.
Holy Linn, cascade, Balmaclellan, i. 96.
Holy Loch, Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 336, 337.
Holy Pool, Strathfillan, ii. 514.
Holy Trinity, Aberdeen, late quoad sacra
parish, i. 17-
Holy Wells, springs, Neilston, ii. 301.
Holydean, in Bowden, i. 149, 150.
Holyrood House, Edinburgh, i. 374.
Holytown, village, Bothwell, i. 545.
Holywood, parish, Dumfries, i. 546.
Home, castle, Stitchell and Hume, ii. 497-
Homer, burn, Penpont, ii. 356.
Hook, mansion, in Applegarth, Dumfries, i.
55.
Hope, Loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Hope, river, Durness, i. 342.
Hopekirk, Roxburgh. See Hobkirk,
Hopeman, village, Duffus, i. 547-
Hopes, house, Garvald and Bara, i. 467-
Hopesrigg, mansion, Westerkirk, ii. 599.
Hope-Temple, gardens, Paisley, ii. 339.
Hopetoun House, seat, in Abereora, Lin-
lithgow, i. 4, 371.
Horda, isle, Burray, i. 547.
Horisdale, isle, Gairloch, i. 547.
Horn, lake, Golspie, i. 511.
Horndean, village, Ladykirk, i. 547, ii. 138.
Horse Isle, Ardrossan, Ayr, i. 68.
Horse of Copinshay, in Orkney, i. 217.
Horse-Shoe Bay, Kerera isle, ii. 14.
Hoscoat, mansion, Roberton, ii. 422.
Hoselaw, lake, Linton, ii. 186, 187.
Hospital-Mill, hamlet, Cults, i. 547 — i. 249.
Houff, stronghold, Lumphauan, ii. 220.
Hounam, parish, Roxburgh, i. 547.
Houndwood, district, Coldingham, i. 548 —
i. 209.
Hounslow, in Westruther, ii. 602.
Hourn, Loch, in Glenelg, i. 505.
Housay, isle, Skerries, Shetland, ii. 466.
House, isle, Bressay, i. 153, 162.
House of Muir, in Glencross, i. 504.
Housebay, in Stronsay, ii. 520.
Househill, residence, Nairn, ii. 299.
Househill, seat, Paisley, ii. 342.
House-Hill, seat, Inchinnau, i. 558.
Houston, estate, Uphall, ii. 580.
Houston and Killallan, parish, Renfrew,
i. 549— i. 525.
Houston House, Linlithgowshire, ii. 185.
Houton, bay, Orphir, Orkney, ii. 333.
Houton Head, promontory, Orphir, Orkney,
ii. 333.
Houton, Holm of, in Orphir, i. 545.
Hova, headland, Ness isle, Shetland, ii. 302.
How of Alford, Aberdeenshire, i. 35.
Howa Sound, Eagleshay, Orkney, i. 35 1 .
Howdean, in Jedburgh, i. 588.
Howe of the Mearns, Kincardineshire, ii. 7 1.
Howgate, hamlet, Penicuick, i. 550, ii. 354.
Howie, Den of, near Fetterangus, i. 276.
Howieshill, hamlet, Cambuslang, i. 550.
Howlet, burn, Loudoun, ii. 216.
Howliston Tower, Stow, ii. 504.
Howquoy, headland, Holm and Paplay, i.
544.
Howwood, village, Lochwinuoch, i. 550, ii.
202.
Hoy, isle, Orkney, i. 550.
Hoy and Gr^msay, parish, Orkney, i. 550.
Hoymouth, Orkney, ii. 455.
Huip, isle, Stronsay, ii. 519.
Huipness, headland, Stronsay, ii. 519.
Hullerhirst, seat, Stevenston, ii. 487.
Hulmitray', isle, Harris, i. 550.
Humbie, estate, Kirkliston, ii. 110.
Humbie, Haddington. See Keith and
Humbie.
Humbie, Queensferry, ii. 396.
Humble-Bumble, in Forteviot, i. 447.
Hume, Roxburgh. See Stitchell and Hume.
Huna, isle, in Unst, ii. 579.
Huna, township, Canisbay, i. 551.
Hunda, island, South Ronaldshay, i. 551.
Hunie, isle, Unst, i. 551.
Huntalee, Jedburgh, i. 587, 588.
Hunterfield, village, Cockpen, i. 551.
Hunter's Bay, Sorbie, ii. 473.
Hunter's Bog, Edinburgh, i. 372.
Hunterston, residence, West Kilbride, ii. 24,
25.
INDEX.
Iluutfield, lands, Libberton, ii. 177.
Hunthiix, hamlet, Blantyre, i. 551.
Hunthill, house, Jedburgh, i. 587.
Huntington, house, Haddington, i. 528.
Huntingtower, barony, Redgorton, ii. 410 ;
Castle, 539.
Huntingtower-Field, in Tibbermore, ii. 540.
HUNTLY, town, Aberdeen, i. 551.
lluntly-Wood, in Gordon, i. 512.
Hurlet, village, Paisley, i. 552, ii. 342.
Hurley-Hawkin, castle, Liff and Benvie, ii.
180.
Hurlford, village, Ricearton, i. 552.
Hutchesonton, district, Glasgow, i. 552 — i.
498.
Hutton, parish, Berwick, i. 553.
Hutton and Corrie, parish, Dunifries,i. 554.
Hutton, Little, old parish, Dumfries, i. 29b'.
Hynd Castle, Monikie, ii. 265.
Hyndford, Pettinain, ii. 373.
I
lasgair, isle, Kilmuir, ii. 53.
Ibris, isle, Dirleton, i. 555 — i. 282.
Ibrox, near Glasgow, i. 489.
Icolmkill, Argyll. See Iona.
Idoch, Water of, Monquhitter, ii. 271.
Idrigil, cliffs, Duirinish, i. 300.
Idvie, Kirkden, ii. 104, 105.
Illary, isle, North Uist, i. 555.
Il-Liston, mansion, Kirkliston, ii. 111.
Inalterie, farm, Deskford, i. 280.
Inch, island, Forfar, i. 439.
Inch, parish, Wigton, i. 555, ii. 387.
Inch House, Liberton, ii. 177, 178.
Inch, North, Perth, ii. 360.
Inch, South, Perth, ii. 359, 360.
Inchard, loch, Eddrachillis, i. 360.
Inchbare, house, Strickathrow, ii. 517.
Inchberry, district, Rothes, ii. 432.
Inchbervis, tower, Auchtergaven, i. 79.
Inchbrakie, in Crieff, i. 236.
Inchbrayock, Forfar, i. 222, ii. 273, 431.
Inch-Cailloch, isle, Buchanan, i. 557, »•
222.
I.NCHCOL5I, isle, Aberdour, i. 557 — i- 23.
Inch-Conagan, isle, Luss, i. 557-
Inch-Cruin, isle, Buchanan, i. 557.
Inchdairnie, mansion, Kinglassie, ii. 77-
Inchdrewer, castle, Banff, i. 104.
Inch-Effray, Madderty, ii. 226.
Inches, island, Aberdeen harbour, i. 13, 14.
Inches, The, Inverness, i. 577.
Inch-Fad, isle, Buchanan, i. 557.
Inchgarvie, isle, Inverkeithing, i. 557, ii.
398.
Inchinna.n, parish, Renfrew, i. 557.
Inchira, mansion, Kinnoull, ii. 88.
Inchkeith, island, Kinghorn, i. 559, ii. 163.
Inch-Kenneth, isle, Kilfinichen, i. 559.
1 nch-Lonaig, isle, Luss, i. 559.
Inchmahome, lake, Port of Monteith,ii. 386,
387.
Inchmarlo, mansion, Banchory-Ternan, i.
101.
Inch-Marnock, island, Rothesay, i. 559 — i.
162, 163.
Inchmartin, in Errol, i. 404.
Inch-Mickery, isle, Cramond, i. 559— i.
227.
Inch-Moan, isle, Luss, i. 559.
Inch-Murin, isle, Buchanan, i. 559 — i. 157.
622
Inehnadaff, in Assynt, i. 73.
Inch-Riach, mountain, Rothiemurchus, ii.
436.
Inchrye House, seat, in Abdie, Fife, i. 3.
Inch-Tavanach, isle, Luss, i. 559.
Inchture and Rossie, parish, Perth, i. 559.
Inchtuthil, Perthshire, i. 177, 178.
Inchyra Hill, St. Madoes, ii. 227.
Indal, loch, Kilchoman, ii. 26.
Inganess, St. Andrew's, Orkney, i. 49, 50.
Ingans, hills, Cleish, i. 201.
Ingleston, camp, Ruthven, ii. 444.
Inglismaldie, mansion, Marykirk, ii. 235.
Inishail, Argyll. See Glenorehy.
Inish-Chonnel, isle, Kilchrenan and Dala-
vich, ii. 27.
Inish-Druinish, Argyll, i. 581.
Inishdrynich House, Glenorehy, i. 509.
Inish-Errich, isle, Kilchrenan and Dala-
vich, ii. 27-
Ink-Craig, stream, Carnock, i. 184.
Inmerdownie, hill, Fossoway, i. 451.
Innergelly, house, Kilrenny, ii. 60.
Innerkip, parish, Renfrew, i. 561 — i. 524.
Innerleithen, parish, Peebles and Selkirk,
i. 561.
Innermessan, farm, Inch, i. 555.
Innerpeffray, Muthill, ii. 297.
Innerquhomry, mansion, Longside, ii. 213.
Innersand, in Sandsting and Aithsting, ii.
451.
Innerwell, bay, Sorbie, ii. 473.
Innerwick, hamlet, Glenlyon, i. 507.
Innerwick, parish, Haddington, i. 562.
Innes House, Urquhart, ii. 581.
Inniskenneth. See Inch-Kenneth and Kilfi-
nichen.
Innocents' Howe, Urquhart, ii. 581.
Inord, Loch, Portree, ii. 389.
Insch, parish, Aberdeen, i. 563.
Insh, district, Inverness, i. 564.
Inshewan, house, Tannadice, ii. 528.
Inshoch, Auldcairn, i. 82, 83.
Inver, loch, Assynt, ii. 196.
Inver, village, Tain, i. 564.
Inver, village, Little Dunkeld, i. 564 — i.
331.
Inverallan, old parish, Inverness, i. 520.
Inverallochy, village, Rathen, i. 564, ii.
402, 403.
Inverarity, parish, Forfar, i. 565.
INVERARY, burgh, Argyll, i. 565.
Inveraven, parish, Elgin and Banff, i. 567.
Inverawe, in Ardchattan, Argyll, i. 61, 62.
In vera we, New, mansion, Glenorehy, i. 509 .
Inveraylort, in Ardnamurchan, i. 66.
Inverbervie, Haddington. See Bervie.
Inverbervie, tower, Auchtergaven, i. 79.
Inverboindie. See Boindie.
Inverbrothock, district, Arbroath, i. 568.
Invercannieh, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Invercauld, estate, Crathie, i. 229.
Inverchadain, in Fortingal, i. 449.
Inverchaolain, parish, Argyll, i. 558.
Invereharron, Kincardine, ii. 68.
Inverchasly, farm, Criech, i. 234.
Invercoe, in Lismore and Appin, ii. 189.
Invercruden, Aberdeenshire. See Cruden.
Inverculan, old parish, Banff, i. 244.
Inverdruie, Rothiemurchus, ii. 436.
Inverebrie, Methlick, ii. 249.
Inverernan, seat, Strathdon, ii. 513.
Invererne, house, Forres, i. 445.
Invereshie, house, Insh, i. 564.
Lnveresk, parish, Edinburgh, i. 569.
Invergarry, Kilmonivaig, ii. 49.
Inverghiusachaw, in Ardchattan, Argyll, i.
62.
Invergordon, village, in Rosskeen, i. 570, ii.
431.
Invergowrie, village, Liff, i. 571, ii. 178,
179, 180.
Inverie, house, Glenelg, i. 505.
Inverinate, bay, Kintail, ii. 92.
Inverkeillor, parish, Forfar, i. 571.
INVERKEITHING, burgh, Fife, i. 572.
Inverkeithny, parish, Banff, i. 574.
Inverleithen. See Innerleithen.
Inverleven, Fife. See Dubbieside.
Inverliver, Ardchattan, Argyll, i. 62.
Inverlochy, castle, Kilmonivaig, ii. 48.
Inverlussay, North Knapdale, ii. 133.
Invermark, mansion, Lochlee, ii. 197.
Invermay House, Forteviot, i. 447.
Invermorriston, village, Urquhart, i. 574,
ii. 583.
Inverneill, South Knapdale, ii. 134, 135.
INVERNESS, burgh, Inverness-shire; his-
tory, i. 574; description of the town, 575;
trade and manufactures, 575 ; municipal
affairs, 576; parish, 576; ecclesiastical af-
fairs, schools, &c, 577; antiquities, 578.
INVERNESS-SHIRE, i. 578.
Invernettie, burn, Burnhaven, i. 160.
Invernettie Point, Peterhead, ii. 370.
Invernochtie, Aberdeen. See Strathdon.
Inverquharity, braes, Kirriemuir, ii. 131,
132.
Inverquiech, near Alyth, i. 43.
Invertiel, district, Fife, i. 580, ii. 77.
Inverugie, castle, St. Fergus, i. 422.
Inveruglass, river, Arrochar, i. 71.
INVERURY, burgh, Aberdeen, i. 580— i.
14.
Inverwick, in Glenlyon, Perth, i. 449.
Invery, seat, Strachan, ii. 505.
Inweary, rivulet, in Abercrombie, Fife, i. 5.
Inzievar, house, Torryburn, ii. 554.
Iona, island, Kilfinichen, Argyll, i. 581.
Iorsa, loch, Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Ire, Holmes of, Cross and Burness, i. 240.
Irishlaw, hill, Largs, ii. 151.
Irneside, in Newburgh, ii. 306.
Irongath hills, Carriden, i. 186.
Irongray, Kirkcudbright. See Kirkpatrick-
Irongray.
Ironottcr Point, Gourock, i. 513.
IRVINE, burgh, Ayr, i. 583— i. 456.
Irvine, river, Loudoun, ii. 216.
Irvine House, Langholm, ii. 147.
Isauld House, Reay parish, ii. 409.
Isla, river, Botriphnie, i. 148; Grange, 517,
518; Keith, ii. 3,4.
Isla, river, Airlie, i. 33 ; Glenisla, 506 ;
Meigle, ii. 242; Perthshire, 365; Ruthven,
443.
Islay, island, Argyll, i. 584.
Isle of Whithorn. See Whithorn, Isle of.
Issay, island, Duirinish, i. 585.
Ituna, river, Logie-Buchan, ii. 206.
Jackston, hill, St. Cyrus, i. 258.
Jackton, hamlet, East Kilbride, ii. 23.
James Roy's Cairn, hill, Knockando, ii. 136.
INDEX.
Jamestown, village, Bonhill, i. 585.
Jamestown, village, Contin, i. 585.
Jamestown, village, Westerkirk, ii. 598.
Janefield, residence, Kirkcudbright, ii. 102.
Janetown, village, Lochcarron, i. 585, ii.
193.
Janet's Brae, eminence, Peebles, ii. 349.
Jardine Hall, seat, in Applegarth, Dumfries,
i. 55.
Jed, river, Jedburgh, i. 585.
JEDBURGH, burgh, Roxburgh, i. 585.
Jemimaville, village, Kirkmichael, i. 588,
ii. 119.
Jerviston, house, Both well, i. 148.
Jerviswood, lands, Lanark, ii. 143.
Jock's Burn, in Carluke, ii. 622.
Jock's-Lodge, village, South Leith, i. 589,
ii. 164.
John's, St., headland, Canisbay, i. 175.
John's, St., Chair, Dairy, i. 198.
John's, St., Hill, Kinneff, ii. 84.
John's, St., Well, in Deskford, i. 280.
John's, St., Well, Spott parish, ii. 479.
John-Knox, Aberdeen, late quoad sacra
parish, i. 17.
John Knox's Kirk, Gladsmuir, ii. 477.
John Legg's Well, in Fordyce, i. 438.
John O'Groat's House, Canisbay, i. 176.
Johnshaven, village, Benholme, i. 589— i.
120.
Johnston, lands, Laurencekirk, ii. 157, 158-
Johnston, loch, Cadder, i. 164.
Johnstonburn, house, Keith and Humbie,
ii. 4.
Johnstone, parish, Dumfries, i. 589.
JOHNSTONE, town, Paisley, i. 590, ii. 340.
Johnstone Canal, ii. 340.
Johnstone Castle, Paisley, ii. 342.
Joppa, village, Coylton, i. 591.
Joppa, village, Duddingston, i. 591.
Jordan Hill, Renfrew parish, ii. 413, 414.
Jordanstone, house, Alyth, i. 43.
Jordieland, farm, Kirkcudbright, ii. 102.
Juniper-Green, village, Colinton, i. 591.
Jur.A and Colonsat, parish, Argyll, i. 591.
K
Kailzie, ancient parish, Traquair, ii. 559,
560.
Kaim, village, Duffus, i. 299.
Kaimes, in Greenlaw, i. 521.
Kaimes' Hill, Ratho, ii. 404.
Kair, mansion, in Arhuthnott, i. 60.
Kale, river, Eckford, i. 357, 358 ; Hounam,
547 ; Morebattle and Mow, ii. 279.
Kalemouth, in Eckford, i. 358.
Kam, rivulet, Kemback, ii. 10.
Kame Hill, West Kilbride, ii. 24.
Karnes, barony, Cumbray, i. .250.
Karnes, house, Eccles, i. 355.
Kames Bay, Bute, i. 162, 163.
Kames Castle, Rothesay, ii. 434.
Kames Hill, Rothesay, ii. 434.
Katrine, loch, Perthshire, ii. 366.
Keallin, harbour, North Uist, ii. 574.
Keanlochbervie, district, Sutherland, ii. 1.
Kean's Cottage, Rothesay, ii. 434.
Kearn. See Auchindoir.
Keavil, house, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Kebat, glen, Kirkmichael, ii. 116.
Kebbaty, mansion, Midmar, ii. 254.
623
Keen, Mount, Lochlee, ii. ] 96.
Keig, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 1, 556.
Keig, Old, farm, Keig, ii. 2.
Keil, estate, Southend, ii. 477, 478.
Keilcolm-Keil, mansion, Southend, ii. 477-
Keill, Lismore and Appin, ii. 188.
Keillor, rivulet, Inverkeillor, i. 571.
Keills, North Knapdale, ii. 133, 134.
Keilour, stream, Collessie, i. 212.
Keil's Glen, Largo, ii. 150.
Keir, in Straiton, ii. 507.
Keir, hill, Dolphinton, i. 284, 285.
Keir, lands, Lecropt, ii. 159, 160.
Keir, parish, Dumfries, ii. 2.
Keirfield, Lecropt, ii. 160.
Keirhead, house, Port of Monteith, ii. 441.
Keir Hill, Gargunnock, i. 463.
Keir House, near Bridge of Allan, i. 36.
Keiss, district, Caithness, ii. 2.
Keith, cascade, Rattray, ii. 406.
Keith, parish, Elgin and Banff, ii. 3.
Keith and Humbie, parish, Haddington,
ii. 4.
Keith-Hall and Kinkell, parish, Aber-
deen, ii. 5.
Keithick, lauds, Cupar- Angus, i. 256, 257.
Keith-Inch, Peterhead, ii. 368.
Keithing, streamlet, Inverkeithing, i. 572.
Keithny, bum, Inverkeithny, i. 574.
Keithtown, village, Fodderty, ii. 5.
Kelburn, in Largs, i. 411.
Kelburn Castle, Largs, ii. 152.
Kelhead, in Cummertrees, i. 252.
Kellas, hamlet, Murroes, ii. 5.
Kelles, Easter, lands, Dallas, i. 263.
Kellie Castle, Carnbee, i. 183.
Kellie Law, in Carnbee, i. 183.
Kelloe, house, in Edrom, i. 395.
Kells, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 5 — i. 188.
Kelly, barony, Methven, ii. 251.
Kelly, burn, Methhck, h. 250.
Kelly, castle, Arbirlot, Forfar, i. 56.
Kelly, mansion, Innerkip, i. 561.
Kellyheads, hills, Newlands, ii. 311.
Kelly Law, Fife, i. 428.
Kellywood, lands, Tulliallan, ii. 562.
KELSO, burgh, Roxburgh, ii. 6.
Kelso, New, Lochcarron, ii. 1 94.
Kel Stane, in Colinton, i. 210.
Keltie, river, Callander, i. 168.
Keltnie, falls, Dull, i. 301, 302.
Kelton, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 9.
Keltox, village, Caerlaverock, ii. 10.
Kelty, river, Kilmadock, ii. 38.
Kelty, village, Beath, ii. 10.
Kelty, village, Cleish, ii. 10.
Kelty Water, Cleish, ii. 234.
Kelvin, river, Kilpatrick, New, ii. 58 ;
Kirkintilloch, 108.
Kem, rivulet, Kemback, ii. 10.
Kemback, parish, Fife, ii. 10.
Kemnay, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 11.
Kempe Knowe, mound, Renfrew, ii. 414.
Kempoch Point, Gouroek, i. 513.
Kemps Castle, Ochiltree, ii. 327.
Kempston, in Urquhart, ii. 581.
Kempstone Hill, in Fetteresso, i. 427.
Ken, loch, Kells, ii. 6.
Ken, river, Kirkcudbright, i. 96, ii. 103.
Kendrochad. See Bridgend.
Kenly, burn, Dunino, i. 326.
Kenmore, headland, Inverary, i. 566.
Kenmore, parish, Perth, ii. 11.
Kenmundy, estate, Old Deer, i. 276.
Kenmure Castle, seat, Kells, ii. 6.
Kennet, village, Clackmannan, ii. 13.
Kennethmont. See Kinnethmont.
Kennetpans, Clackmannan, i. 199.
Kennetside Head, Eccles, i. 355.
Kennoway, parish, Fife, ii. 13.
Kennox, mansion, Stewarton, ii. 488.
Kenrive, in Kilmuir Easter, ii. 54.
Kentailen, bay, Lismore and Appin, ii. 1 89.
Kenture, bay, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Kenuachdrach, in Jura, i. 591.
Keose, farm, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Kepp, village, Kippen, ii. 14.
Keppelhills, Newhills parish, ii. 310.
Keppoch, in Kilmonivaig, ii. 48.
Keppoch, house, Cardross, i. 178.
Keppock-Hill, village, near Glasgow, ii.
14— i. 137.
Kerbit, rivulet, Kinnettles, ii. 87-
Kerco, Kinclaven, ii. 72.
Kerera, island, Argyll, ii. 14, 51.
Kerfield, residence, Peebles, ii. 349.
Kerilaw, seat, Stevenston, ii. 487-
Kerloak, hill, Banchory-Ternan, i. 100, 101.
Kerrycroy, village, Kingarth, ii. 14.
Kerse, loch, Dalrymple, i. 268.
Kerse House, Falkirk, i. 415.
Kershope, stream, Castleton, i. 190.
Kersie, ferry, Airth, Stirling, i. 35.
Kersiebank, seat, Polmont, ii. 379.
Kessaig, St., Hill of, Callander, i. 168.|
Kessock, Wester, Knockbain, ii. 137.
Kettins, parish, Forfar, ii. 14.
Kettle, parish, Fife, ii. 15.
Kettletoft, bay, Sanda, Orkney, ii. 449.
Kidlaw, in Yester, ii. 620.
Kiel, river, Largo, ii. 150.
Kier, Dumfries. See Keir.
Kilarrow and Kilmeny, parish, Argyll, ii.
16.
Kilbag-head, headland, Lochs parish, ii. 20(1.
Kilbagie, Clackmannan,' i. 199.
Kilbarchan, parish, Renfrew, ii. 16.
Kilbartha, ancient parish, Tome, ii. 557-
Kilberry, Argyll. See Kilcalmonell.
Kilbirnie, parish, Ayr, ii. 17.
Kilblaan, ancient parish, Southend, ii. 476.
Kilbrachmont, hill, Kilconquhar, ii. 28.
Kilbrandon and KilchattaN; parish, Ar-
gyll, «• 19-
Kilbride, Argyll. See KUmore.
Kilbride, in Inverary, i. 567.
Kilbride, in Kilmichael-Glassary, ii. 47-
Kilbride, iu Strath, ii. 510.
Kilbride, bay, Kilfinan, ii. 31.
Kilbride, parish, county of Bute, ii. 20.
Kilbride, old parish, Lewis, i. 536.
Kilbride, East, parish, Lanark, ii. 22.
Kilbride, West, parish, Ayr, ii. 24.
Kilbryde Castle, Dunblane, i. 314.
Kilbucho, Peebles. See Broughton.
Kilcadzow, village, Carluke, ii. 25 — i. ISO.
Kilcalmkill, house, in Clyne, i. 204.
Kilcalmonell and Kilberry, parish, Ar-
gyll, ii. 25.
Kilchattan, Argyll. See Kilbrandon.
Kilchattan-Bay, village, Kingarth, ii. 26.
Kilchenzie, Argyll. See Killean.
Kilchiaran, Kilchoman, ii. 26.
Kilchoan, in Ardnamurchan, Argyll, i. 64,
66.
Kilchoman, parish, Argyll, ii. 26.
INDEX.
Kilchonsland, old parish, Argyll, i. 173.
Kilchrenan and Dalavich, parish, Argyll,
ii. 27.
Kilchrist, ancient parish, Urray, ii. 585.
Kileolmkill, ancient church, Argyll, i. 62.
Kileolmkill, ancient parish, Southend, ii.
476.
Kilcolumkill, ancient parish, Morvern, ii.
283.
Kilconquhar, parish, Fife, ii. 28.
Kilcormack, old parish, Kelton, i. 471.
Kilcoy, Killieman, ii. 36.
Kilcraigie, ferry, Roseneath, ii. 428.
Kilda, St., island, Inverness, ii. 29.
Kildalton, parish, Argyll, ii. 29.
Kildonan, parish, Sutherland, ii. 30.
Kiklonan, in Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Kildoanan, Kirkmaiden, ii. 1 13.
Kildroehat, residence, Stoneykirk, ii. 501.
Kildrummy, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 31.
Kilfinan, parish, Argyll, ii. 31.
Kilfinichen and Kilviceuen, parish, Ar-
gyll, ii. 32.
Kilgour, old parish, Fife, i. 416,
Kilgraston, in Dunbarny, i. 312, 313.
Kilhenzie, castle, Maybole, ii. 241.
Kiliter, hill, Cardross, i. 178.
Kilkerran, lands, Dailly, i. 259, 260.
Kilkivan, old parish, Argyll, i. 1 73.
Kill, river, Stair, ii. 483.
Killarrow, Argyll. See EilarroK.
Killbar, Barra, i. 108.
Killchiaran, harbour, Lismore and Appin,
ii. 189.
Killean, in Clyne, i. 204.
Killean, in Torosay, Argyll, ii. 552.
Killean and Kilchenzie, parish, Argyll, ii.
33.
Killearn, parish, Stirling, ii. 34.
Killellan. See Houston and Killallan.
Killermont House, New Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
Killevin, in Kilmichael-Glassary, ii, 47.
Killiecrankie, pass, Moulin, ii. 284.
Killiemore, in Penninghame, ii. 354, 355.
Killiernan, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
35.
Killigray, island, Inverness, ii. 36— i. 118.
Killin, parish, Perth, ii. 37.
Killiness Point, Kirkmaiden, ii. 113.
Killintringan Bay, Portpatrick, ii. 388.
Killisport, loch, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Kill-ma-Lemnock, ancient baronv, Elgin, i.
50.
Killochen, lands, Dailly, i. 260.
Killochyktt, hamlet, Stow, ii. 38.
Killoe, stream, Sanquhar, ii. 454.
Killoran, house, Colonsay, i. 214.
Kilmaehlie, farm, Inveraven, i. 568.
Kilmadock, parish, Perth, ii. 38.
Kilmaglass, ancient parisli, Strachur, ii.
505.
Kilmahew, lands, Cardross, i. 178.
Kn.MAiroG, village, Callander, ii. 39.
Kilmahunaig, North Knapdale, ii. 134.
Kilmalcolm, parish, Renfrew, ii. 39, 381.
Kilmalie, parish, Argyll and Inverness, ii.
39.
Kilmaluag, bay, Kilmuir, ii. 53.
Kilma.ny, parish, Fife, ii. 41.
Kilmardinny, estate, New Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
KILMARNOCK, burgh, Ayr, ii. 42.
Kilmarnock, New, former parish, i. 420.
Kilmaron, house, Cupar, i. 256.
624
Kilmaronock, parish, Dumbarton, ii. 44.
Kilmaiitin, parish, Argyll, ii. 44.
Kilmaurs, burgh, Ayr, ii. 45.
Kilmaveonaig, old parish, Perth, i. 132, 133.
Kilmelford, Argyll. See Kilnhiver.
Kilmeny, district, Argyll, ii. 46.
Kilmhorie, old parish, Argyll, i. 224.
Kilmichael, Kilbride, ii. 21, 22.
Kilmichael, old parish, Argyll, i. 173.
Kilmiciiaei.-Glassary, parish, Argyll, ii. 40.
Kilmilieu, old parish, Inverary, i. 566.
Kilminster, moss, Wick, ii. 610.
Kilmodan, parish, Argyll, ii. 47 — i. 60.
Kilmonivaig, parish, Inverness, ii. 48 — ii.
40.
Kilmorack, parish, Inverness, ii. 49.
Kilmore, Argyll. See Kilninian.
Kilmore, house, Urquhart, ii. 583.
Kilmore and Kilbride, parish, Argyll, ii.
50.
Kilmorie, in Ardnamurchan, i. 66.
Kilmorie, chapel, Kirkcolm, ii. 99.
Kilmorie, parish, county of Bute, ii. 51.
Kilmorrie, ancient parish, Straehlachlan, ii.
505.
Kilmory, lands, Kilmichael-Glassary, ii. 47.
Kilmory, mansion, Lochgilphead, ii. 195.
Kilmuir, parish, Inverness, ii. 52.
Kilmuir Easter, parish, Ross and Cro-
marty, ii. 53.
Kilmuir Wester, Ross. See ICnockbain.
Kil-Muluag, Lismore and Appin, ii. 188.
Kilmun, Argyll. See Dunoon.
Kilmux, mansion, Scoonie, ii. 458.
Kilnave, in Kilchoman, ii. 26.
Kilneuair, in Kilmichael-Glassary, ii. 47.
Kilninian and Kilmore, parish, Argyll, ii.
54.
Kilninter and Kilmelford, parish, Ar-
gyll, H. 56.
Kilpatrick, New, or East, parish, Dum-
barton and Stirling, ii. 57.
Kilpatrick,Old, or West, parish, Dumbar-
ton, ii. 58.
Kilpurnie, hill, Newtyle, ii. 317-
Kilqubanity, lands, Kirkpatriek-Durham,
ii. 122.
Kilravock, castle, Croy and Dalcross, i. 243.
KILRENNY, burgh, Fife, ii. 60— i. 53.
Kilspindie, parish, Perth, ii. 61.
Kilspindy, lands, and castle, Haddington, i.
26.
Kilstay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 113.
Kilsyth, burgh and parish, Stirling, ii. 61 —
i. 174.
Kiltarlity, parish, Inverness, ii. 63.
Kiltearn, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
64.
Kiltrie, Kenmore, ii. 13.
Kilumtaith, ancient parish, Morvern, ii. 283.
Kilvickeon, Argyll. See Kilfinichen.
Kilvic-O-Charmaig, ancient parish, North
Knapdale, ii. 133.
KILWINNING, town and parish, Ayr, ii.
65— i. 68.
Kimmerghame, lands, Edrom, i. 394.
Kinairdy, mansion, Marnoch, ii. 232.
Kinhattoch, ancient parish, Towie, ii. 557-
Kinbeam, farm, in Aberdour, Aberdeen, i.
22.
Kinbettock, Aberdeen. See Towie.
Kinblethmont, house, Inverkeillor, i. 571.
Kinbroom House, in Fyvie, i. 457.
Kinbuck, village, Dunblane, ii. 67—1.314.
Kincaid, Campsie, i. 175.
Kincairnie, village, Caputh, ii. 67.
Kincaldrum, house, Inverarity, i. 565.
Kincaple, village, St. Andrew's, ii. 67.
Kincardine, in Blackford, i. 131.
Kincardine, Inverness. See Abernethy.
Kincardine, burgh, Tulliallan, ii. «7 — i.
246, ii. 562, 563.
Kincardine, old village, Fordoun, i. 437.
Kincardine, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
68.
Kincardine in Monteith, parish, Perth, ii.
69.
Kincardine O'Neil, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 70.
KINCARDINESHIRE, ii. 71.
Kinclaven, parish, Perth, ii. 72.
Kincorth, Dyke and Moy, i. 346, 347.
Kincraig, hill, Earlsferry, i. 351, ii. 28, 29.
Kincraig House, Rosskeen, ii. 431.
Kindace, lands, Kilmuir Easter, ii. 54.
Kindallachan, village, Dunkeld, i. 330.
Kindar, Loch, Newabbey, ii. 303.
Kinelie, burn, Towie, ii. 557.
Kindrogan, mansion, Moulin, ii. 284.
Kinellan, loch, Contin, i. 216.
Kinfauns, parish, Perth, ii. 72.
Kingartii, parish, Bute, ii. 73,
Kingcase, hospital, Monkton and Prestwick,
ii. 271.
King Coil's Tomb, Tarbolton, ii. 531.
Kingcausie, mansion, Maryculter, ii. 234.
King-Edward, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 74.
Kingennie, ancient chapelry, Monifieth, ii.
263.
Kingerloch, tract, Lismore and Appin, ii.
188, 189, 190.
KINGHORN, burgh and parish, Fife, ii.
75— i. I.
Kingincleugh Cottage, Mauchline, ii. 237.
Kinglas, river, Ardchattan,Argyllshire, i. 62.
Kinglassie, parish, Fife, ii. 77.
Kingledoors, in Drummelzier, i. 293.
King Malcolm's Gravestone, Glammis, i.
478.
Kingoldrum, parish, Forfar, ii. 78.
Kingoodie, village, Longforgan, ii. 79, 210
Kingoody, hill, Bourtie, i. 149.
King's Cairn, Rathven, ii. 406.
King's Castle, Kirkwall and St. Ola, ii. 130.
King's Causeway, Tain, ii. 526.
King's Cave, Kilmorie, ii. 52.
King's Cave, Little Cumbray, i. 251.
King's Cellar, vault, Dunfermline, ii. 181.
King's College. See Old Aberdeen.
King's Haugh, in Cabrach, i. 164.
King's Hill, Carluke, i. 180.
King's Inch, isle, Renfrew, ii. 412.
King's Knot, Stirling, ii. 492.
King's Meadows, Peebles, ii. 349.
King's Park, Stirling, ii. 491, 492, 494.
King's Pass, Dunkeld, i. 331.
King's Pool, in Westerkirk, ii. 598.
King's Seat, Dunkeld, i. 327.
King's Seat, hill, Abernyte, Perth, i. 30.
King's Seat, hill, Dollar, i. 283.
King's Seat, lands, New Machar, ii. 226.
King's Well, Newtyle, ii. 317-
Kingsbarns, parish, Fife, ii. 79.
Kingscavil, Linlithgow, ii. 183.
Kingsdale, mansion, Kennoway, ii. 14.
Kingseat, hill, Alyth, Perth, i. 43.
Kingsford, seat, in Alford, Aberdeen, i. 36.
INDEX.
Ringside, lauds, Eddlestone, i. 300.
Kingslauds, Wester-town of, Auchtergaven,
i. 79.
Kiugsmuir, lands, Dimino, i. 326.
Kingston, district, Renfrew, ii. 80.
Kingston-Port, village, Speymouth, ii. 80
— i. 465.
Kingswell, seat, Sorn, ii. 473.
Kingussie, parish, Inverness, ii. 80.
Kinharvey, lands, Newabbey, ii. 304.
Kinkell, Aberdeen. See Keith-Hall.
Kinkell, in Trinity- Gask, i. 469.
Kinkell, rocks, St. Andrew's, i. 48.
Kinloch, Perth. See Lethendy.
Kiuloch, hamlet, "Rum island, ii. 441.
Kinloch, stream, Tongue, ii. 548.
Kinloch, village, Collessie, ii. 82.
Kinloeh-Etive, Argyll, i. 61.
Kinloch House, Collessie, i. 212.
Kinlochlaich, mansion, Lismore and Appin,
ii. 190.
Kinloch-Luichart, district, Ross and Cro-
marty, ii. 82.
Kinlochspelve, district, Argyll, ii. 82.
Kinloss, parish, Elgin, ii. 82.
Kinmount House, Cummertrees, i. 252.
Kinmuck, Keith-Hall and Kinkell, ii. 5.
Kinnaird, parish, Perth, ii. 83.
Kinnaird, village, Larbert, ii. 84, 149.
Kinnaird, village, Moulin, ii. 83.
Kinnaird Castle, Farnell, i. 417.
Kinnaird Head, near Fraserburgh, i. 454.
Kinnaird House, Little Dunkeld, i. 331.
Kinnairdy, seat, Banffshire, i. 105.
Kinnedar, old parish, Elgin, i. 290.
Kiunedars, Upper and Lower, seats, Saline,
ii. 447.
Kinneff, parish, Kincardine, ii. 84 — i. 121.
Kinneil, Borrowstounness, i. 143, 144.
Kinneil, Upper, farm, Borrowstounness, i.
144.
Kinnell, parish, Forfar, ii. 85 — i. 222.
Kinneil, seat, Killin, ii. 37-
Kinnellar, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 85.
Kinnel- Water, Kirkpatrick-Juxta, ii. 125.
Kinnermony, district, Aberlour, Banff, i. 27.
Kinnerny, old parish, Aberdeen, i. 204.
Kinness, rivulet, St. Andrew's, i. 47.
Kixnesswood, village, Portmoak, ii. 86.
Kinnethmont, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 86.
Kinnettles, parish, Forfar, ii. 87.
Kinuinmonth, estate, Lonmay, ii. 214, 215.
Kinnordy, lake, Kirriemuir, ii. 131, and
House, 132.
Kinnooll, parish, Perth, ii. 88— i. 6.
Kinoir, old parish, Huntly, i. 551.
Kinrara, estate, in Alvie, Inverness, i. 42.
KINROSS, town, Kinross, ii. 89.
Kinrossie, village, Collace, ii. 91.
KINROSS-SHIRE, ii. 91.
Kintail, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii. 92.
Entail, ancient parish, Sutherland, ii. 548.
Kintessack, village, Dyke, ii. 92.
Kintore, burgh, Aberdeen, ii. 92— ii. 5.
Kintra, bay, in Ardnamurchan, Argyll, i. 64.
Kintra, Moss, Ardnamurchan, i. 65."
Kintradwell, mansion, Loth pariah, ii. 215.
Kintulloch, village, Dunbarny, ii. 94.
Kip, river, Innerkip, i. 561.
Kip Rock, in Ayton, i. 90.
Kiplaw, hill, Linton, ii. 187.
Kippen, parish, Perth and Stirling, ii. 91.
Vol. I. — 625
Kippenross, house, Dunblane, i. 314.
Kipperminshock, lands, Cardross, i. 178.
Kippet Hills, Slains and Forvie, ii. 468.
Kippilaw, seat, Bowden, i. 149.
Kipps, New Monkland, ii. 267.
Kipps, hills, Torphichen, ii. 553.
Kirk, hamlet, Lundie and Fowlis, ii. 95.
Kirk, harbour, Kinghorn, ii. 76.
Kirk Hill, Kinnettles, ii. 88.
Kirk of Field, Edinburgh, i. 364, 381.
Kirk of How, in Westray, ii. 601.
Kirk of the Grove, Monzie, ii. 276.
Kirkaldt, Fife. See Kirkcaldy.
Kirkandrews, village, Borgue, ii. 95 — i
142, 143.
Kirkapol, hay, Tiree, ii. 544.
Kirk Bank, mansion, St. Mungo, ii. 293.
Kirkeean, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 95.
Kirk Brae, in Inverarity, i. 565.
Kirkbride, Kirkmaiden, ii. 113.
Kirkhuddo, old parish, Guthrie, i. 526.
Kirkburn, in Cambuslang, i. 170.
KIRKCALDY, burgh, Fife, ii. 96— i. 1.
Kirk-Christ, old parish, Twynholm, ii. 568.
Kirkcolm, parish, Wigton, ii. 98.
Kirkconnel, farm, Tongland, ii. 548.
Kirkconnel, parish, Dumfries, ii. 99,
Kirkconnel, ancient parish, Kirkpatrick-
Fleming, ii. 123.
Kirkcovog, Kirkwall and St. Ola, ii. 128.
Kirkcraig, rock, Kinghorn, ii. 76.
KIRKCUDBRIGHT, burgh, ii. 100.
KIRKCUDBRIGHT, stewartry, ii. 103.
Kirkcudbright-Imiertig, i. 93.
Kirkdale, ancient parish, Kirkmabreck, ii.
111.
Kirkden, parish, Forfar, ii. 104.
Kirkdrain, Kirkmaiden, ii. ] 13.
Kirkfield, district, Gorbals,ii. 105— i. 512.
Kirkfield-Bank, village, Lesmahago, ii.
105.
Kirkforthar, seat, Markinch, ii. 231.
Kirkgunzeon, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 105.
Kirkheuch, St. Andrew's, i. 49.
Kirkhill, in Avondale, i. 84.
Kirkhill, castle, Colmonell, i. 214.
Kirkhill, mansion, Meigle, ii. 243.
Kirkhill, parish, Inverness, ii. 106.
Kirkhill, seat, Uphall, ii. 580.
Kirkhill, village, Cambuslang, ii. 106.
Kirkhill, village, Penicuick, ii. 100.
Kirk-holm, in Sandsting and Aithstin», ii.
451.
Kirkhope, bay, Walls and Sandness, ii. 589.
Kirkhope, farm, Ettrick, i. 408.
Kirkibbost, isle, North Uist, ii. 100.
Kirkiboll, village, Tongue, ii. 106.
Kirkindar, Newabbey, ii. 303.
Kirkinner, parish, Wigton, ii. 107.
KIRKINTILLOCH, burgh, Dumbarton, ii.
108, 270.
Kirkland, in Bonhill, i. 141.
Kirkland, hamlet, Glencairn, ii. 109.
Kirkland, village, Wemyss, ii. 109,598.
Kirkland of Tinwald, village, Tinwald, ii.
109.
Kirklane, village, Kincardine in Monteith,
ii. 109.
Kirklands, house, in Ancrum, Roxburgh i
44. = ' '
Kirklands, seat, Saline, ii. 447.
Kirklands of Inverlunan, Lur.an parish, ii
220.
Kirklaw Hill, Skirling, ii. 467.
Kirklebride, lands, Kirkpatrick- Durham, ii.
122.
Kirkleish, Kirkmaiden, ii. 113.
Kirkliston, parish, Edinburgh and Lin-
lithgow, ii. 109— i. 510.
Kirk Loch, Lochmaben, ii. 198.
Kirkmabreck, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii.
111.
Kirkmadrine, ancient parish, Sorbie, ii. 473.
Kirkmaiioe, parish, Dumfries, ii. 112.
Kirkmaiden, parish, Wigton, ii. 113.
Kirkniaiden, old parish, Glasserton, i. 499.
Kirkmay, house, Crail, i. 226.
Kirkmiehael, lands, Row parish, ii. 438.
Kirkmichael, parish, Ayr, ii. 114.
Kirkmichael, parish, Banff, ii. 115.
Kirkmichael, parish, Dumfries, ii. 116.
Kirkmichael, parish, Perth, ii. 117.
Kirkmichael and Cullicudden, parish,
Ross and Cromarty, ii. 118.
Kirkmdirhill, village, Lesmahago, ii. 119.
Kirknewton and East Calder, parish,
Edinburgh, ii. 119.
Kirkney, Water of, Rhyme and Essie, ii.
419.
Kirkoswald, parish, Ayr, ii. 120.
Kirkowan, parish, Wigton, ii. 121 — ii. 107.
Kirkpatrick - Durham, parish, Kirkcud-
bright, ii. 122.
Kirkpatrick-Fleming, parish, Dumfries, ii.
123.
Kirkpatrick-Irongray, parish, Kirkcud-
bright, ii. 124.
Kirkpatrick-Juxta, parish, Dumfries, ii.
125.
Kirk-Pottie, old parish, Perth, i. 312.
Kirkside, lands, St. Cyrus, i. 259.
Kirkstyle, Lanarkshire, i. 180.
Kirkstyle, in Ruthwell, ii. 444.
Kirktomie, valley, i. 418, 419.
Kirkton, Forgan, i. 442.
Kirkton, hamlet, Dunnichen, i. 334.
Kirkton, hamlet, Glenisla, ii. 126.
Kirkton, hamlet, Tealing, ii. 126.
Kirkton, lands, Carluke, i. 180.
Kirkton, stream, Neilston, ii. 300.
Kirkton, village, Auchterhouse, ii. 126.
Kirkton, village, Balmerino, ii. 126.
Kirkton, village, Glenelg, i. 505.
Kirkton, village, Kirkmaiioe, ii. 126.
Kirkton, village, Largo, ii. 126.
Kirkton, village, Monzie, ii. 276.
Kirkton, village, Newtyle, ii. 316.
Kirkton, village, Strathmartine, ii. 126.
Kirkton Hill, Marykirk, ii. 235.
Kirkton of Kinnettles, Kinnettles, Forfar,
ii. 126.
Kirkton of Weem, Perth, ii. 126.
Kirktoun, glen, Campsie, i. 174.
Kirktoun, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 126.
Kirktoun, village, Burntisland, ii. 120.
Kirktoun, village, Fenwick, ii. 127.
Kirktoun Holm, East Kilbride, ii. 23.
Kirktown, in Auchterless, i. 80.
Kirktown, Rayne, ii. 408.
Kirktown, hamlet, Gutlirie, i. 526.
Kirktown of Fordoun, Kincardineshire ii
127.
Kirktown of New Deer, village, Buchan
ii. 127— i. 275.
Kirktown of Rasay, Rasay island, ii. 402.
Kirkurd, parish, Peebles, ii. 127.
4L
INDEX.
Kirkville House, Skene, ii. 466.
KIRKWALL and ST. OLA, burgh, Ork-
ney, ii. 128.
Kirkwood, grounds, St. Mungo, ii. 293.
Kirk-Yetholm, Roxburgh. See Yetlwhn.
Kirouehtree, seat, Minnigaff, ii. 258.
KIRRIEMUIR, burgh, Forfar, ii. 130.
Kirtle, district, Dumfries, ii. 132.
Kirtle, river, Kirkpatrick-FIeming, ii. 123.
Kirtlebridge, village, Middlebie, ii. 133.
Kirtleton, seat, Kirtle, ii. 132.
Kishorn, district, in Applecross, i. 54, ii.
464.
Kismull Castle, Barra, i. 107.
Kittersan, hamlet, Kirkowan, ii. 133.
Kittoch, stream, East Kilbride, ii. 23.
KiTTocH-SinE, village, East Kilbride, ii. 133
— ii. 23.
Klett, isle, in Assynt, i. 73.
Knab, promontory, Lerwick, ii. 168.
Knaik, river, Muthill, ii. 296.
Knap, point, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Knapdale, North, parish, Argyll, ii. 133.
Knapdale, South, parish, Argyll, ii. 134.
Kneess, headland, Stornoway, Lewis, ii. 502.
Knightland Moss, Drumblade, i. 292.
Knightsridge hill, Livingstone, ii. 191.
Knightswood, village, New Kilpatrick, ii.
135.
Knipe, mountain, New Cumnock, i. 253.
Knock, in Mull island, Argyll, ii. 446.
Knock, or Un, district, Lewis, ii. 135.
Knock, burn, Rothiemay, ii. 435.
Knock, castle, Sleat parish, Skye, ii. 471.
Knock, hill, Bathgate, i. 111.
Knock, hill, Grange, i. 518.
Knock, house, Largs, ii. 152.
Knockando, parish, Elgin, ii. 135.
Knockbain, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
136.
Knockbreck, river, Jura, i. 591.
Knoek-Craig, Kirkmichael, ii. 117.
Knockdavie, in Burntisland, i. 162.
Knockdaw, castle, Colmonell, i. 214.
Knockderry, Roseneath, ii. 428.
Knockdolian, Colmonell, i. 213, 214.
Knockdow, mountain, Ayr, i. 89.
Knock-Durroch, eminence, Monzie, ii. 276.
Knockenbaird, lands, Inseh, i. 503.
Knoekespoch, house, Clatt, i. 201.
Knockewart, estate, Ardrossan, Ayr, i. 68.
Knock-Farril, in Fodderty, i. 434.
Knock-Georgan, hill, Ayrshire, i. 68.
Kuockhall, castle, Foveran, i. 453.
Knockhead, Boindie, i. 138.
Knock Hill, Renfrew parish, ii. 413, 414.
Knockinglew, hill, Inverury, i. 581.
Knockman, loch, Dairy, i. 267.
Knockmarloch, in Riccarton, ii. 420.
Knockmead, hill, Dunlop, i. 332.
Knock-Moray, hill, Edinkillie, i. 392.
Knoekmoy, mountain, Southend, ii. 476.
Knock-na-Bareibhich, hill, Reay, ii. 408.
Knock-na-Gillan, farm, in Auldearn, i. 83.
Knocknalling, house, Kells, ii. 6.
Knoeknounan, mountain, Ayr, i. 89.
Knocksiioggle-Holm, village, Coylton, ii.
137.
Knockaide, hill, Largs, ii. 151.
Knock-Sleitill, hill, Reay, ii. 408.
Knocksting, loch, Dairy, i. 267.
Knodyart, district, Glenelg, i. 505, 506.
Knowhead, lands, Dennv, i. 278.
626
Knownowton, in Cambusnethan, i. 170.
Knows, Beith, i. 114.
Knowsouth House, Bedrule, i. 113.
Kyle, castle, Auchinleck, i. 76.
Kyle, river, Stair, ii. 483.
Kyleakin, village, Isle of Skye, ii, 137.
Kyleshill, eminence, Polwarth, ii. 379.
Kyleside, in Assynt, i. 73.
Kype, stream, Avondale, i. 84.
Kype's Rigg, in Avondale, i. 84.
Lackerstone, barrow, Kettle, ii. 16.
Lacksta, in Harris, i. 536.
Laeock, lands, Fowlis Wester, i. 454.
Ladhope, district, Roxburgh, ii. 137.
Ladhope Hills, Melrose, ii. 246.
Ladies' Hill, Stirling, ii. 491.
Lady, isle, Ayr, ii. 137, 561.
Lady, parish, Orkney, ii. 138.
Ladyacre, in Inchinnan, i. 558-
Ladybank, village, Collessie, ii. ]38.
Ladyburn, rivulet, Cupar, i. 256.
Lady-Glen, in Dailly, i. 260.
Lady Hill, Elgin, i. 397, 399.
Lady-Kirk, Duncansbay, Caithness, i. 315.
Ladykirk, Orkney. See Stronsay.
Ladykirk, parish, Berwick, ii. 138.
Ladykirk, seat, Monkton and Prestwick, ii.
271.
Ladyland, lands, Kilbirnie, ii. 18.
Ladyloan, district, Forfar. See Arbroath.
Ladysford, house, Tyrie, ii. 571.
Lady's Rock, Papa-Stour, Shetland, ii. 346.
Lady Yester, parish. See Edinburgh.
Ladywell, near Glasgow, i. 137.
Lag, in Kilmorie, ii. 52.
Lag, Dumfriesshire, i. 338, ii. 285.
Laga, in Ardnamurchan, i. 66.
Lagamhulin, Kildalton, ii. 29, 30.
Laganallachy, old parish, Perth, i. 331.
Lagg, bay, Eigg, Inverness, i. 396.
Lagg, in Jura, Argyll, i. 591, 592.
Laggan, eminence, Monivaird and Strowan,
ii. 266.
Laggan, parish, Inverness, ii. 139.
Laggan, river, Kilarrow and Kilmeny, ii. 16.
Laggan of Cantyre, Campbelltown, i. 173.
Laggan Point, Torosay, Argyll, ii. 552.
Laggan-UIva, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii. 55.
Laght Alpine, Dalmellington, i. 265.
Lahaich, loch, Kilfinichen and Kilviceuen,
ii. 33.
Lahill, seat, Newburn, ii. 309.
Laigh, vale, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Laigh-Gameshill, Dunlop, i. 332.
Lainshaw House, Stewarton, ii. 488.
Lairdmannoch, Linn of, Tongland, ii. 547.
Laird's hill, Kilsyth, ii. 62.
Lairg, parish, Sutherland, ii. 140.
Laithers, lands, Turriff, ii. 567.
Lakefield, house, Urquhart, ii. 583.
Lakehead, Kirkmahoe, ii. 113.
Lamancha, in Newlands parish, ii. 311.
Lamb, isle, Dirleton, i. 282.
Lamba, isle, Shetland, ii. 141, 323.
Lambden, house, Greenlaw, i. 521.
Lamberlaws, in Burntisland, i. 162.
Lamljerton, manor, Mordington, ii. 277, 278.
Lambhead, in Stronsay, ii. 519, 520.
Lambholm, isle, Orkney, ii. 141.
Lamgarroch, hill, Tynron, ii. 570.
Lamlash, island, Bute, ii. 141 — ii. 21, 22.
Lammerlaw, hill, Yester, ii. 620.
Lammermoor, district, i. 126, 529.
Lammingtoune, village, Wandell, ii. 141,
592, 593.
Lamp Acre, Corstorphine, i. 218.
LANARK, burgh, Lanark, ii. 141.
Lanark, New, village, Lanark, ii. 144.
LANARKSHIRE, ii. 144.
Land, farm, Tynron, ii. 570.
Lanfine, mansion, Galston, i. 461.
Langavat, loch, Uig, ii. 573.
LANGHOLM, burgh, Dumfries, ii. 146— i.
530.
Langholm, New, village, Dumfries, ii. 147.
Langholm, The, mountain, Dumfriesshire, i.
308.
Langhouse, seat, Renfrewshire, ii. 415.
Langlee, house, Jedburgh, i. 587.
Langlee Hills, Melrose, ii. 246.
Langley, former parish, Banff, i. 421 .
Langley Park, Dun, i. 309.
Langloan, village, Old Monkland, ii. 147,
269, 270.
Langraw, in Hobkirk, i. 543.
Langrigg, village, Whitburn, ii. 147.
Langshaw, Melrose, ii. 247.
Langshaw, mansion, Kirkpatrick-FIeming,
ii. 124.
Langside, mansion, Peebles, ii. 349.
Langside, village, Cathcart, ii. 147 — i. 192.
Langton, parish, Berwick, ii. 148.
Langton Tower, Coldingham, i. 209.
Langton, burn, Dunse, i. 339, 340.
Langwell, river, Latheron, ii. 154, 155.
Lanrick, moor, Kilmadoek, ii. 39.
Lanton, village, Jedburgh, ii. 149 — i. 586,
588.
Lany, suppressed parish, Port of Monteith,
ii. 386.
Laoghal, loch, Tongue, ii. 548.
Laoidean, loch, Fortingal, i. 448.
Laorin, creek, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii. 54.
Laraig-ruadh, pass, Rothiemurchus, ii. 436.
Larbert, parish, Stirling, ii. 149.
Larch Grove, in Currie, i. 258.
Larg, farm, Inch, i. 556.
Larg, hill, Kirkmabreck, ii. 111.
Larg Hills, Urr, ii. 585.
Largie, mansion, Killean and Kilchenzie, ii.
34.
Largo, parish, Fife, ii. 1 49.
Largo, Lower, village, ii. 151.
Largoward, Kilconquhar, ii. 29.
LARGS, parish, Ayr, ii. 151.
Largybeg Point, Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Larig-Aoilt, Ardchattan, i. 61.
Lariston, estate, Castleton, i. 191.
Larkhall, district, Lanark, ii. 152 — i. 270.
Larkhall, in Jedburgh, i. 588.
Laroch, stream, Lismore and Appin, ii. 189 ;
farm, ii. 190.
Lasswade, parish, Edinburgh, ii. 153.
Lathallan, Kilconquhar, ii. 29.
Lathallan, Wester, mansion, Newburn, ii.
309.
Lathalmond, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Latheron, parish, Caithness, ii. 154.
Latheron-Wheel, hamlet, Latheron, ii. 155.
Lathrisk, estate, Kettle, ii. 1 5.
Lathro, lands, Kinross, ii. 91.
Lauchope House, Bothwell, i. 546.
INDEX.
LAUDER, burgh, Berwick, ii. 155.
Lauderdale, Berwickshire, i. 126.
Laughing Hill, Borrowstounness, i. 144.
LAURENCEKIRK, burgh, Kincardine, ii.
157.
Laurencetoun, Falkirk, ii. 158.
Laurieston, district, near Glasgow, ii. 158.
Laurieston, village, Balmaghie, ii. 15H—
i. 97.
Laurieston, village, Stirling, ii. 158.
Lauriston, St. Cyrus, i. 258, 259.
Lauriston, house, Cramond, i. 227.
Laverock, tract, Berwick, i. 207.
Law, in Carluke, i. 181.
Law, hill, West Kilbride, ii. 24.
Law, mount, Kirkurd, ii. 128.
Law Cairn, in Tyrie, ii. 571.
Law Castle, West Kilbride, ii. 25.
Lawers, Kenmore, ii. 12. See also Ben-
Lawers.
Lawers, seat, Monivaird and Strowau, ii.
267.
Law-field, in Craig, i. 222.
Lawhead, hill, Whitekirk and Tynning-
hame, ii. 604.
Lawhill, Blautyre, i. 136.
Law Hillock, in Deskford, i. 280.
Lawhill-Side, hill, Bourtie, i. 149.
Lawkneis, hill, Selkirkshire, ii. 461.
Law Knoll, in Errol, i. 405.
Lawmoor, house, East Kilbride, ii. 23.
Law-Muir, New Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
Lawrence, St., Slamannan, ii. 469.
Lawrence Road, in Culsamond, i. 247.
Lawrie's Well, Morebattle and Mow, ii. 279.
Laws, mansion, Monifieth, ii. 263 ; hill, 264.
Laxay, river, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Laxdale, river, Stornoway, Lewis, ii. 502.
Laxfirth Voe, in Tingwall, ii. 541, 542.
Laxford, loch, Eddrachillis, i. 360.
Leacht, hill, Kirkmichael, ii. 116.
Leader, river, Earlstoun, i. 352 ; Lauder,
ii. 156.
Leadhills, district, Lanark, ii. 159 — i. 230.
Leadhlich, hill, Coull, i. 219.
Leadlaw, hill, Linton, ii. 186.
Lea-Elian, isle, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Learney, hill, Kincardine O'Neil, ii. 70.
Leask, estate, Slains and Forvie, ii. 468, 469.
Lebanon, suburb, Cupar, i. 255.
Leckan, hills, Kilchrenan and Dalavicb, ii.
27-
Leckie, Gargunnock, i. 463.
Lecropt, parish, Perth and Stirling, ii. 159.
Leddie, river, Aberlady, Haddington, i. 25.
Leddiegreen, house, Strathblane, ii. 511.
Ledmore, in Criech, i. 233.
Lednock, stream, Comrie, i. 215.
Lee, hill, in Carluke, i. 180.
Lee, lands, Lanark, ii. 142, 143.
Lee, river, Lochlee, ii. 196.
Leeds, New, village, Strichen, ii. 160.
Lees, seat, Coldingham, i. 210.
Leet, river, Swinton, ii. 524.
Leetown, village, Errol, ii. 160.
Leetside, farm, Whitsome and Hilton, ii.
607.
Legerwood, parish, Berwick, ii. 160.
Leggan, loch, Kippen, ii. 94.
Leggerdale, Aberdeenshire, i. 105.
Leitchtown, residence, Port of Monteith, ii.
387.
LEITH, burgh, Edinburghshire, ii. 161 ;
627
also i. 363, 364, &c, Edinburgh ; Bell's
bequest, i. 47.
Leith, St. John's, district, Edinburgh, ii.
165.
Leith, Water of, Edinburghshire, i. 211,391.
Leith, Water of, village, Edinburgh, ii.
165.
Leithen, river, Peebles, ii. 350.
Leith Hall, mansion, Kinnethmont, ii. 86.
Leith-Lumsden, village, Auchindoir and
Kearn, ii. 165.
Leitholm, village, Eccles, ii. 165— i. 355.
Lemna, burn, Rescobie, ii. 417-
Lempit-Law, height, Sprouston, ii. 480.
Lempitlaw, village, Sprouston, ii. 165, 481.
Lenabo, Longside, ii. 213.
Lendal, stream, Girvau, i. 475.
Leney House, Callander, ii. 39.
Leney, Little, Callander, i. 168.
Leunel, ancient parish, Coldstream, i. 209,
210.
Lennock, stream, Birnie, i. 128.
Lennox, district, Dumbarton, i. 304.
Lennox Castle, Campsie, ii. 166.
Lennox Fells, Balfron, i. 93.
Lennox Tower, Currie, i. 257.
Lennoxlove, mansion, Haddington, i. 528.
Lennox's Cairn, mound, Linlithgow, ii. 182.
Lennoxtown, village, Stirling, ii. 165— i.
174.
Lentran, mansion, Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Lentrathen, Forfar. See Lintratlien.
Lenzie, Wester, Kirkintilloch, ii. 108.
Leochel and Cushnie, parish, Aberdeen, ii.
166.
Leogh, hamlet, in Fair, i. 411.
Leonach, height, Nairnshire, ii. 299.
Leonard's, St., College. See Andrew's, St.
Leonard's, St., parish, Fife, ii. 167.
LERWICK, burgh, Shetland, ii. 168, 541.
Leslie, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 169.
Leslie, parish, Fife, ii. 170.
Lesmahago, parish, Lanark, ii. 171.
Lesmore, lands, Rhynie and Essie, ii. 419.
Lesmurdie, in Cabrach, i. 164.
Lessendrum, mansion, Drumblade, i. 292.
Lessudden, village, Roxburgh, ii. 172 — ii.
146,
Leswalt, parish, Wigton, ii. 172— i. 555.
Lethain, house, Haddington, i. 528.
Letham, village, Dunnichen, ii. 172.
Letham, village, Monimail, ii. 172.
Letham Grange, in St. Vigean's, ii. 587.
Letham Hill, Inverkeithing, i. 573.
Lethen, burn, Ardclach, i. 63.
Lethen, estate, Auldearn, i. 82 — i. 63.
Lethenbar, hill, Ardclach, Nairn, i. 63.
Lethendy, Scone parish, ii. 457.
Lethendy and Kinloch, parish, Perth, ii.
173.
Lethington, house, Haddington, i. 528, 529.
Lethnott and Navar"; parish, Forfar, ii. 173.
Letterbeg, farm, Strachan, ii. 505.
Letterewe, estate, Gairloch, i. 458.
Letterfearn, district, Glenshiel, i. 510.
Letterfourie, mansion, Rathven, ii. 405.
Leuchar, rivulet, Peterculter, ii. 367-
Leuchars, mansion, ii. 581.
Leuchars, parish, Fife, ii. 174.
Leucophibia, Wigtonshire, ii. 605.
LEVEN, burgh, Fife, ii. 175.
Leven, loch, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Leven, loch, Kinross-shire, ii. 91.
Leven, river, Leslie, ii. 170.
Leven, river, Bonhill, i. 141.
Levenach, ancient district, Dumbarton, i.
304.
Levenbank- works, Bonhill, i. 141.
Levenfield, Bonhill, i. 141.
Levenstrath, mansion, Southend, ii. 477.
Levenwiek, bay, Dunrossness, i. 338.
Levern, district, Renfrew, ii. 176.
Levern, river, Neilston, i. 108, ii. 300.
Lewis, Island of, Inverness, and Ross and
Cromarty, ii. 176.
Lewistown, East and West, village, Urqu-
hart, ii. 176.
Ley, in Towie, ii. 558.
Ley op Halliburton, hamlet, Kettins, ii.
176.
Leys, in Croy and Dalcross, i. 243.
Leys, in Kincardineshire, i. 100, 101, 294.
Leys, lands, Errol, i. 403.
Leysmill, village, Inverkeillor, ii. 176 — i.
571.
Lhanbryde. See Andrew's, St., Elgin.
Libberton, parish, Lanark, ii. 176.
Liberton, parish, Edinburgh, ii. 177-
Libo, loch, Neilston, ii. 300.
Licklyhead, mansion, Premnay, ii. 392.
Lickprivick, castle, East Kilbride, ii. 24.
Liddel, river, Canobie, i. 176 ; Castletou,
190.
Liddelbank, estate, Castleton, i. 191.
Liddesdale, Roxburgh, i. 190.
Lidnathy, stream, Kirriemuir, ii. 131.
Liechestown, farm, Deskford, i. 280.
Liff and Benvie, parish, Forfar and Perth,
ii. 178.
Lightburn, village, Cambuslang, ii. 180,
464.
Lightwater, burn, Falkirk, i. 415.
Lilliard's Edge, Maxton, ii. 239.
Lilliesleaf, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 180.
Lillyburn, in Campsie, i. 175.
Lily, loch, Shotts, i. 119.
Limefield, house, West Calder, i. 167.
Limekilns, village, Dunfermline, ii. 181.
Limmerfield, Glasgow, i. 480.
Lincluden, seat, Terregles, ii. 536.
Lindean, old parish, Galashiels, i. 459.
Lindertis House, hi Airlie, Forfar, i. 34.
Lindores, village, Abdie, ii. 181 — i. 2, 3; ii.
306, 308.
Lindston, loch, Dalrymple, i. 268, 269.
Line, lake, Kilninver and Kihnelford, ii.
57.
Linga, isle, Fetlar, Shetland, ii. 181.
Linga, isle, Delting, Shetland, ii. 181.
Linga, isle, Tingwall, Shetland, ii. 181.
Linga, isle, Unst, Shetland, ii. 181.
Linga, isle, Walls and Sandness, Shetland,
ii. 181.
Linga, Little and Muckle, Stronsay, Shet-
land, ii. 181.
Lingafiold, hill, Sandwick, ii. 451, 452.
Lingay, isle, Barra, Inverness, ii. 181.
Lingay, isle, Harris, Inverness, ii. 181.
Linghohn, isle, Stronsay, ii. 519.
Linglass, in Wick, Caithness, ii. 611.
Linhouse, stream, Calder, i. 166, 167.
Linket, bay, North Ronaldshay, Orkney, ii.
424.
Linndean, cascade, Fala and Soutra, i. 412.
Linksfield, in St. Andrew's Lhanbryde, El-
gin, i. 50.
4 L 2
INDEX.
Linksness, headland, Stronsay, ii. 519.
Linktown, town, Fife, ii. 181 — i. 2.
Linlathen, mansion, Monifieth, ii. 263.
LINLITHGOW, burgh, Linlithgow, ii. 182
— i. 365, 366.
Linlithgow-Bridge, Linlithgow, ii. 184 — ii.
182, 290.
LINLITHGOWSHIRE, ii. 184.
Linmill, burn, Dalmeny, i. 265.
Linn, lands, Dairy, i. 267-
Linn, in Deskford, i. 279.
Linnburn, seat, Kirknewton and East Calder,
ii. 120.
Linnhe, Loch, Argyllshire, i. 69.
Linnhe, rivei', Arroehar, i. 71.
Linnmill, burn, in Abercorn, Linlithgow, i.
4.
Lintalee, Jedburgh, i. 587, 588.
Linthill, house, Eyemouth, i. 410.
Linthill, seat, Bowden, i. 149.
Linton, house, in Cluny, i. 204.
Linton, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 186.
Linton, or West Linton, parish, Peebles, ii.
185.
Linton, village, Prestonkirk, ii. 185.
Lintkathen, parish, Forfar, ii. 187.
Lintrose, mansion, Kettins, ii. 14.
Lmwoon, village, Renfrew, ii. 188.
Ljsmore and Appin, parish, Argyll, ii. 188 —
i. 95.
Liston, Kirkliston, ii. 109.
Liston-Shiels, Kirkliston, ii. 110.
Lithy, Loch, Auldearn, i. 82.
Little Colonsay. See Colonsay, Little. And,
all places having a similar distinguishing
prefix will be found under the proper name.
Littledean Tower, Maxton, ii. 239.
Little-Ferry, in Golspie, i. 511.
Little-France, village, Liberton, ii. 177-
Little-Loch, Mearns, ii. 242.
Littt.e-Mii.l, village, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 191
— ii. 59.
Littlemilstick, in A voch, Ross and Cromarty,
i. 83.
Little-Water, Methlick, ii. 250.
Little- Wood Park, in Tullynessle, ii. 564.
Liver, stream, Ardchattan, i. 62.
Livet, river, Banffshire, i. 105.
Livet, Linn of, Inveraven, i. 567.
Livingstone, parish, Linlithgow, ii. 191.
Loak, Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Loanhead, village, Denny, ii. 191.
Loanhead, village, Lasswade, ii. 191 — ii.
1515, 154.
Loans, village, Dundonald, ii. 191.
Loans-Bridge, Dairy, i. 267.
Loch Alvie. See Alxie, Loch. And all other
Lochs will be found under file proper name,
atul not under the Jtead of Loch.
Lochaber, district, Kilmonivaig, ii. 48.
Loch-a-Bhealich, Kintail, ii. 92.
Loch-a-Chorry, Kincardine, ii. 68.
Lochalsh, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
191.
LocJiao, stream, Avondale, i. 84.
Loch-an-Eilean, Rothiemurchus, ii. 436.
Loch-an-Falloch, Port of Monteith, ii. 387.
L'x lian-Leamhan, Kilmichael-Glassary, ii.
47.
L0CHAH8, village, Inch, ii. 192.
Lochar, river, Dumfries, i. 307, ii. 555.
Locharbriogs, village, Dumfries, ii. 192.
Lochar Moss, Dumfries, i. 307, ii- 285.
628
Lochaven, in Abernethy, Elgin, i. 28.
Lochaweside, Kilmichael-Glassary, ii. 47.
Lochay, river, Killin, ii. 37.
Lochbroom, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
192.
Loch-Burn, rivulet, Linlithgow, ii. 183.
Lochbuy, in Torosay, Argyll, ii. 550, 551,
552.
Lochcarron, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
193— i. 54.
Loehcote, house, Torphichen, ii. 553.
Lochcraig, mountain, Moffat, ii. 260.
Lochearnhead, village, Balquhidder, ii.
194.
Lochee, village, Forfar, ii. 194 — ii. 179,
180.
Loch-End, lake, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Lochend, lake, Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Lochend, lands, Kirkgunzeon, ii. 106.
Lochend House, Dunbar, i. 311.
Locher, river, Kilbarchan, ii. 17.
Locherwart, ancient parish, i. 144.
Lochfell, height, Moffat, ii. 260.
Lochfineside, Kilmichael-Glassary, ii. 47.
Lochfoot, village, Lochrutton, ii. 194.
Lochgelly, village, Auchterderran, ii. 194
— i. 78.
LOCHGILPHEAD, village, Argyll, ii. 195.
Lochgoilhead and Kilmorich, parish, Ar-
gyll, ii. 195.
Lochgorum, Kilchoman, ii. 26.
Lochhead, Argyllshire, i. 1 72.
Loch-head, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Lochhouse, tower, Kirkpatrick-Juxta, ii.
125.
Lochiel, in Lorn, Argyll, i. 70.
Lochinbreck, lake, Balmaghie, i. 97.
Loeh-in-daal, Sleat parish, Skye, ii. 470.
Loehindorb, lake and castle, Edinkillie, i.
392.
Lochintallin, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Lochinvar, lake, Dairy, i. 267.
Lochinver, village, Assynt, ii. 196- — i. 73.
Loehknock, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Lochlands, Aberdeen, market, i. 14.
Lochlee, in Tarbolton, ii. 530.
Lochlee, parish, Forfar, ii. 196.
Lochleven Castle, Kinross, ii. 89, 404.
Loehlin, castle, Fearn, i. 420.
LOCHMABEN, burgh, Dumfries, ii. 197.
Lochmaddy, in North Uist, ii. 562, 574,
575.
Lochmalonie, Kilmany, ii. 41.
Lochmingary, creek, Kilninian and Kilmore,
ii. 54.
Lochmure, lands, Angus, i. 97.
Lochnaboe, lake, Elginshire, i. 400.
Lochnachat, lake, Clunie, i. 203.
Loch-na-Clar, in Sutherlandshire, ii. 523.
Lochnacuen, Kildonan, ii. 30.
Lochnagar, mountain, Crathie, i. 229.
Loch-na-Keal, isle of Mull, ii. 292.
Loch-nanean, Kirkmichael, ii. 118.
Loch-nan-Uamh, Ardnamurchan, Argyll, i.
65.
Loch-na-Reaull, Ardnamui'chan, Argyll, i.
65.
Loeh-na-Sealg, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Lochnell House, Ardchattan, i. 62.
Lochnaw Castle, Leswalt, ii. 172.
Lochore, estate, Ballingry, i. 95.
Lochranza, castle, Kilbride, ii. 21.
Lochridge, mansion, Stewarton, ii. 488.
Lochrin, St. Cuthbert's, Edinburgh, ii. 390.
Lochrutton, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 199.
Lochs, district, in Applecross, i. 54.
Lochs, parish, in Lewis, Ross and Cromartv.
ii. 199.
Lochside, hamlet, St. Cyrus, ii. 200.
Loch-Skene, mountain, Dumfries, i. 308,
309.
Lochsyde, seat, Lochwinnoch, ii. 202.
Lochthorn, village, Dumfries, ii. 200.
Lochtolla, lake, Glenorchy, i. 509.
Lochton, hill, Longforgan, ii. 210 ; mansion,
211.
Lochty, Markinch, ii. 232.
Lochty, river, Kinglassie, ii. 77-
Lochwinnoch, parish, Renfrew, ii. 200.
Lochwood, castle, Johnstone, i. 589.
Lochy, loch and river, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
LOCKERBIE, town, Dumfries, ii. 204.
Logan, house, Old Cumnock, i. 254.
Logan, seat, Wigtonshire, ii. 614.
Logan, stream, Glencross, i. 504.
Logan, stream, Halfmorton, i. 530.
Logan-Bank, house, Glencross, i. 504.
Logan House, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Logan House, Penicuick, ii. 352.
Logan Water, Lesmahago, ii. 171.
Logan Water, Penicuick, ii. 353.
Loggie, burn, Torphichen, ii. 552.
Logie, burn, Gamrie, i. 462.
Logie, house, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Logie, lands, Liff and Benvie, ii. 1 78.
Logie, loch, Crimond, i. 237-
Logie, parish, Clackmannan, Perth, and Stir-
ling, ii. 205.
Logie, parish, Fife, Ii. 204.
Logie, or South Parish, Forfar. See Kirrie-
muir.
Logie, village, Logie-Pert, ii. 204.
Logiealmond, district, Moneydie, ii. 262.
Logiebride, ancient parish, Perth, i. 79.
Logie-Buchan, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 206.
Logie-Coldstone, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 207.
Logie-Durno, Aberdeen. See Garioch,
Chapel of.
Logie Easter, parish, Ross and Cromarty,
ii. 207.
Logie-EIphinstone, house, Chapel of Ga-
rioch, i. 464.
Logie Head, in Fordyce, i. 438.
Logie House, Edinkillie, i. 393.
Logie Law, in Flisk, i. 433.
Logie-Pert, parish, Forfar, ii. 208.
Logierait, parish, Perth, ii. 209.
Logie Wester, Nairn, and Ross and Cro-
marty. See Urquhart.
Loing, loch, Kintail, ii. 92.
Loing, river, Kintail, ii. 92.
Loirston, loch, Nigg, ii. 318.
Lomond Hills, East and West, Fife, i. 428.
Lomond, Loch, Buchanan, i. 157 ; Luss, ii.
222.
Lonach, hill, Strathdon, ii. 512.
Lonan, river, Ardchattan, ii. 288.
Louehead, Lochwinnoch, ii. 202.
Long, Loch, Argyllshire, i. 71, ii. 427.
Long Loch, Lundle and Fowlis, ii. 221.
Long Loch. Neilston, ii. 300.
Longa, island, in Strath, ii. 509.
Longannat, hamlet, Tulliallan, ii. 563.
Longcastle, ancient parish, Kirkinner ii.
107.
Long Craig, pier, Queensferry, ii. 397-
INDEX.
Longfaugh, property, Crichton, i. 233.
Longforgan, parish, Perth, ii. 210.
Longformacus and Ellim, parish, Berwick,
ii. 211.
Long Gallery, cave, Dunnottar, i. 336.
Long Haven, Aberdeenshire, i. 22.
Longhope, bay, Walls and Sandness, ii.
589.
Long Island, Hebrides, ii. 212.
Longleys, hamlet, Cupar-Angus, ii. 212.
Longman, hamlet, Gamrie, i. 462.
Long Man's Grave, in Abernyte, Perth, i.
31.
Longniddey, village, Gladsmuir, ii. 212,
476.
Longo, isle, Gairloch, in Ross and Cromarty,
ii. 212.
Longridge. See Langrigg.
Longside, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 212.
Longstone, village, Colinton, ii. 213.
Lonmat, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 213.
Lordseairnie, castle, Moonzie, ii. 277-
Loretto, Chapel of, Inveresk, ii. 296.
Lorn, braes, Kilninver and Kilnielford, ii.
56.
Lorn, Lynn of, Lismore and Appin, ii. 188.
Lornty, stream, Blairgowrie, i. 135.
Lossie, river, Elgin, i. 128, 263, 397, 398.
Lossiemouth, sea-port, Elgin, ii. 215— i.
397.
Loth, parish, Sutherland, ii. 215.
Lothian Bridge, Cramond, i. 228.
Lothian, East. See Haddingtonshire.
Lothian, Mid. See Edinburghhire.
Lothian, West. See Linlithgoicshire.
Loudoun, or Loudon, parish, Ayr, ii. 216 —
i. 85.
Louisburgh, village, Wick, ii. 217-
Loups, waterfalls, Kingoldrum, ii. 78.
Lower, in Forfar, i. 439.
Lowes, Loch, Balniaclellan, i. 95.
Lowes, The, loch, Yarrow, ii. 618.
Lowland Bay, Jura, i. 591.
Lowries Know, Kettle, ii. 16.
Lows, in Caputh, i. 177-
Lowthers, hills, Durisdeer, i. 342.
Lowthertown, village, Domock, ii. 217.
Lowtis, hill, Newabbey, ii. 303.
Loy, Loch, Auldearn, i. 82.
Loyall Hills, in Alyth, Perth, i. 42, 43.
Luacragan, river, Ardchattan, ii. 288.
Luag, loch, Fowdis Wester, i. 453.
Luath's Stone, in Tough, ii. 556.
Lubnaig, loch, Perthshire, ii. 366.
Luce, New, parish, Wigton, ii. 217.
Luce, Old, or Glenluce, parish, Wigton, ii.
218.
Luce, old parish, Hoddam, i. 543, 544.
Luce, river, New Luce, ii. 217 ; Old Luce,
218.
Luckensford, hamlet, Inchinnan, ii. 219.
Lucklaw Hill, Logie, ii. 204.
Lucklawhill-Feus, hamlet, Logie, ii. 219.
Lud Castle, promontory, Arbroath, ii. 587.
Lude, ancient parish, Perthshire, i. 132,
133.
Lude House, Blair-Atholl, i. 133.
Luffness, seat, in Aberlady, Haddington, i.
26.
Lugar, river, Auchinleck, i. 75 ; Old Cum-
nock, 254.
Lugate Castle, Stow, ii. 504.
Lugate Water, Stow parish, ii. 503.
629
Luggie, river, New Monkland, ii. 268.
Luggiebank, mansion, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Lugton, river, Kilwinning, ii. GG.
Lugton, village, Dalkeith, ii. 219.
Luichart, stream, Urray, ii. 585.
Luin, loch, Glenshiel, i. 510.
Luina, loch, Kilchrenan and Dalavich, ii.
27.
Luing, isle, Kilbrandon and Kilchattan, ii.
19.
Lumphanan, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 219.
Lumsden, village, Auchindoir, i. 75.
Lunan, parish, Forfar, ii. 220.
Lunan, burn, Caputh, i. 177.
Lunan, river, Kirkden, ii. 104 ; Lunan, 220.
Lunanhead, village, Forfar, ii. 221.
Lunasting, Shetland. See Nesting.
Luncarty, ancient parish, Redgorton, ii. 410.
Lunderston, bay, Innerkip, i. 561.
Lundie, hill, Strickathrow, ii. 516.
Lundie, lake, Golspie, i. 511.
Lundie and Fowlis, parish, Forfar, ii. 221.
Lundie House, Liff and Benvie, ii. 179.
Luudin, estate, Largo, ii. 149, 150.
Lundin, Standing Stones of, Largo, ii. 222.
Lundinmill, village, Largo, ii. 222.
Lundis, farm, Newabbey, ii. 304.
Lunga, isle, Argyll, ii. 222.
Lunnafrith, sound, Yell, ii. 619.
Lurg, in Morvern, ii. 283.
Lurg, lands, Tulliallan, ii. 562.
Lurg, New Kilpatrick, ii. 58.
Lurgie Craigs, in Stitchell and Hume, ii.
498.
Lurky, lake, Parton, ii. 347.
Luscar, lands, Carnock, i. 184.
Lusragan, river, Ardchattan, ii. 288.
Luss, parish, Dumbarton, ii. 222 — i. 157.
Lussa, stream, Torosay, ii. 551.
Lustielaw, in Arngask, i. 71.
Luther, river, Fordoun, i. 436.
Luthermuir, village, Marykirk, ii. 223.
Luthrie, village, Creieh, ii. 223— i. 232.
Lybster, village, Caithness, ii. 223— ii. 155.
Lybster, village, Reay, ii. 410.
Lydoch, loch, Perthshire, ii. 365.
Lynchat, village, Alvie, ii. 224.
Lyndemus Hill, Flisk, i. 433.
Lyne, river, Peebles, ii. 350.
Lyne, stream, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Lyne and Megget, parish, Peebles, ii. 224.
Lynedoch House, Methven, ii. 251, 252.
Lynevilg, Rothiemurchus, ii. 436.
Lynturk, estate, Leochel and Cushnie, ii. 166,
167.
Lynviulg, Alvie, Inverness, i. 42.
Lyon, castle, Borrowstouiiness, i. 144.
Lyon, loch, Fortingal, i. 448.
Lyon, river, Glenlyon, i. 507.
M
Maam-an-Tuirc, mountain, Kintail, ii. 92.
Maarburn, rivulet, Durisdeer, i. 342.
Mabery, loch, Penninghame, ii. 354.
Mabiery, loch, Colmonell, i. 213.
Mc. Arthur's Head, hill, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Mc. Culloch's Castle, Kirkbean, ii. 96.
Mc. Larty, isle, Craignish, i. 224.
Mc. Leod's Tables, Duirinish, i. 300.
Mc. Merry, village, Gladsmuir, i. 476.
Mc. Niven, isle, Craignish, i. 224.
M'Question, in Tynron, ii. 570.
Mac Alister, bay, Torosay, ii. 551.
Maebeth's Stone, Lumphanan, ii. 219.
Macbeth's Stone, Meigle, ii. 243.
MACDUFF, burgh, Banff, ii. 225— i. 102,
103.
Macduff's Cave, Kilconquhar, ii. 29.
Macduff's Cross, Newburgh, ii. 308.
Machan, West, lands, Larkhall, ii. 152.
Machanshire, old parish, Lanark, i. 269.
Machany, river, Blackford, i. 131.
Machar, New, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 225 —
i. 21.
Machar, Old. See Aberdeen, Old.
Maehony, river, Muthill, ii. 296.
Machray, bay, Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Machrihanish, bay, Campbelltown, i. 173.
Machririoeh, bay, Southend, ii. 476.
Machry-Kill, in Dailly, i. 260.
Macinrie, loch, Port of Monteith, ii. 387-
Mackinnon's Cave, Staffa, ii. 483.
Mackintosh, lands, Moy and Dalrossie, In-
verness, ii. 287.
Macmillan's Tower, North Knapdale, Ar-
gyllshire, ii. 134.
Macute's-Green, in Lesmahago, county of
Lanark, i. 1.
Madderty, parish, Perth, ii. 226— i. 300.
Madderty, Castle of, Muthill, ii. 297.
Maddiston, village, Muiravonside, ii. 226.
Maddy, Loch, North Uist, ii. 562, 574,
575.
Madoes, St., parish, Perth, ii. 227.
Madras College. See Andrew's, St.
Maebearie, loch, Kirkowan, ii. 121.
Maedie, loch, Tongue, ii. 548.
Magbiehill, in New lands parish, ii. 311.
Magdalen Fields, Berwick, i. 124, 125.
Magdalene Bridge, Edinburgh, i. 297-
Maghaig, loch, Kilmadock, ii. 38.
Magirdum, Newburgh, ii. 308.
Magnus Muir, near St. Andrew's, i. 46.
Magnus', St., Bay, Shetland, ii. 323.
Maich, stream, Kilbirnie, ii. 18.
Maiden, rock, St. Andrew's, i. 48.
Maiden-Bridge, Newbattle, ii. 305.
Maiden Bower, in Dumfries, i. 307.
Maiden Castle, Collessie, i. 213.
Maiden Castle, Markinch, ii. 232.
Maiden Paps, Caithness, i. 166.
Maiden-Skeery', isle, Shetland, ii. 228, 323.
Maiden Stone, rock, Ayton, i. 90.
Maik's, St., Well, Drumoak, i. 294.
Main Castle, in Galston, i. 461.
Mainland Isle, Shetland, ii. 228.
Mains, house, Chirnside, i. 197.
Mains, lands, Kirkliston, ii. 109.
Mains and Strathmartine, parish, Forfar,
ii. 228.
Mains Castle, East Kilbride, ii. 24.
Mains of Dalhousie, Edinburgh, i. 207.
Mains of Errol, hamlet, Errol, ii. 229.
Mains of Morton, Morton parish, ii. 281.
Maisly, Keith, ii. 4.
Maisterton, ancient parish, Newbattle, ii.
305.
Makerstoun, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 229.
Malleny, seat, Currie, i. 258.
Mallore Hills, Ardchattan, ii. 288.
Maltan Walls, in Anerum, Roxburgh, i. 44.
Malzie Water, Mochrum, ii. 260.
Mamore, farm, Roseneath, ii. 428.
Manar, Inverury, i. 581.
INDEX.
Manderston, house, Dunse, i. 340.
Manor, parish, Peebles, ii. 229.
Manoi'head, Manor parish, ii. 230.
Mauquhill, farm, Dairy, i. 268.
Mansfield, village, New Cumnock, ii. 230.
Manslaughter Law, Longibrmacus and Ellim,
ii. 211.
Manuel, stream, Muiravonside, ii. 290.
Manuel Priory, Muiravonside, ii. 290.
Manxman's Lake, Kirkcudbright, ii. 101.
Maole-Buidhe, hill, Kirkmichael aaid Culli-
cuddeu, ii. 118.
March of Lunanbank, hamlet, Inverkeillor,
ii. 230.
Marchfarm, hamlet, Kirkinner, ii. 230.
Marchmont House, Polwarth, ii. 379— i. 521.
Marchwell, in Glencross, i. 504.
Marcus, house, Tannadice, ii. 528.
Maree, loch, Gairloch, i. 457, 458.
Mareg, harbour, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Marestone, hamlet, Aberlemno and Res-
cobie, ii. 230.
Margaret's, St., Convent, Morningside, ii.
280.
Margaret's, St., Hope, Fifeshire, i. 322.
Map.garet's, St., Hope, village, South Ro-
naldshay, Orkney, ii. 231, 425.
Marischal College. See Aberdeen.
Mark, stream, Lochlee, ii. 196.
Market Hill, East Kilbride, ii. 22.
Markinch, parish, Fife, ii. 231.
Markland Well, Lochrutton, ii. 199.
Markle, lands, Prestonkirk, ii. 393.
Marlee House, Lethendy, and Kinloch, ii.
173.
Marlefield House, Eckford, i. 358.
Marnoch, parish, Banff, ii. 232.
Marr, district, Aberdeen, i. 229, ii. 253.
Marr Lodge, in Crathie, i. 229.
Martin, isle, Ross and Cromarty, ii. 233.
Martin, St., extinct parish, Kirkmichael
and Cullicudden, ii. 118.
Martin's, St., parish, Perth, ii. 233.
Martinham, lake, Dalrymple, i. 268.
Martyrs, bay, Iona, i. 583.
Martyrs, district, Paisley, ii. 343.
Mary, loch, in Alness, Ross and Cromarty,
i. 39.
Mary, St. See South Eonaldshay, Orkney.
Mary, St., lake, Yarrow, ii. 618.
Mary, St., lands, Renfrew parish, ii. 414.
.Mary's, St., hamlet, Holm and Paplay,
Orkney, ii. 234.
-Mary's, St., lake, Tobermory, ii. 546.
Mary's, St., well, Ladykirk, ii. 139.
Mary's, St., College. See Andrew's, St.
Mary's, St., Hill, Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Mary's, St., island, Lewis, Ross and Cro-
marty, ii. 461.
Mary's, St., Isle, seat, Kirkcudbright, ii. 102.
Maryburgh, Inverness. See Fort-William.
M vuyburoii, hamlet, Cleish, ii. 234.
Maryburgh, village, Fodderty, ii. 234— i.
435.
Makyculter, parish, Kincardine, ii. 234.
Makyhill, district, near Glasgow, ii. 235.
Mahykirk, parish, Kincardine, ii. 235— ii.
208.
Maryporfcj bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 1 14.
Marytown, parish, Forfar, ii. 236— i.
222.
Ma in town, village, Forgan, ii. 236.
Muivtown, village, Kirriemuir, ii. 236.
630
Marywell, spring, Marytown, ii. 236.
Marywell, village, St.Vigean's, ii. 237,587.
Maskersa, in Hutton and Corrie, i. 554.
Massau, stream, Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 337.
Mastertown, village, Dunfermline, ii. 237-
Mathers, Kaim of, St. Cyrus, i. 259.
Mathers, Milton of, village, St. Cyrus, ii. 256.
Mauchline, town, Ayr, ii. 237, 291.
Mauldslie, in Carluke, i. 180.
Maul-Elan- An, isles, Sutherland, ii. 238.
Maulside, in Dairy, i. 267.
Maum-Soule, mountain, Kilmorack, ii. 49.
Maunderlea, hill, Alvah, Banff, i. 40.
Mavine, isthmus, Northmavine, Shetland,
ii. 323.
Mavisbank House, Lasswade, ii. 153, 154.
Maxton, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 238.
Maxwell, parish, Kelso, ii. 239.
Maxwellheugh, village, Kelso, ii. 239 —
ii. 9.
Maxwellton, village, East Kilbride, ii. 239
— ii. 23.
Maxwellton House, in Glencairn, i. 502.
Maxwelltown, burgh, Kirkcudbright, ii.
239.
May, island, Fife, ii. 240.
May, river, Forgandenny, i. 442 ; Forte-
viot, 447.
MAYBOLE, town, Ayr, ii. 240.
Mayeu House, Rothiemay, ii. 435.
Meadowbank, seat, Kirknewton and East
Calder, ii. 120.
Meadowhead, in Dalziel, i. 272.
Meadow-Head, mine, Leadhills, ii. 159.
Meadowhill, lands, Larkhall, ii. 152.
Meadowmill, village, Tranent, ii. 241, 558,
559.
Mealfuarvonie, mountain, Urquhart, ii. 582.
Meal-Horn, mountain, Eddrachillis, i. 360.
Meallmeadhonach, mountain, Durness, i.
342.
Mearns, hill, Kirriemuir, ii. 132.
Mearns, parish, Renfrew, ii. 242.
Mearns, The. See Kincardineshire.
Meathie, ancient parish, Inverarity, i. 565.
Meckphin, hamlet, Methven, ii. 242.
Medwin, river, Libberton, ii. 1 76.
Medwin, North, river, Libberton, ii. 176.
Medwin-Bank, Dunsyre, i. 341 .
Meft, farm, Urquhart, ii. 581.
Megdale, lands, Westerkirk, ii. 599.
Megget, Peebles. See Lyne.
Megget, river, Westerkirk, ii. 598.
Megginch Castle, Perthshire, ii. 367.
Meig, stream, Contin, i. 216.
Meigle, hill, Galashiels, i. 459.
Mf.igle, parish, Perth, ii. 242.
Meikle, river, Loehbroom, ii. 192.
Meikleben, hill, Kilsyth, ii. 62.
Meikle-Cese, hill, Longformacus ami Ellim,
ii. 212.
Meikle Ferry, Sutherland, i. 233.
Meiklefolla, in Fyvie, i. 457.
Meiklehill, mansion, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Meikleour, village, Caputh, ii. 243.
Meikleour House, in Caputh, i. 177.
Meikleriggs, Paisley, ii. 342.
Meikle- Wardhouse, lands, Insch, i. 563.
Meiklewarthill, hamlet, Rayne, ii. 243,
408.
Meiklewood, house, Stirling, i. 463.
Meikly, loch, Urquhart and Glenmorriston,
ii. 582, 583.
Mein, river, Middlebie, ii. 252.
Meinfoot, Middlebie, ii. 252.
Melbie House, Vaila, Walls, ii. 586.
Melbost, in Stornoway, Lewis, ii. 503.
Meldrum, burgh, Aberdeen, ii. 243.
Meldrum Tower, in Fyvie, i. 457.
Melford, loch, Kilninver and Kilmelford ii
56.
Melford, seat, Kilninver and Kilmelford, ii
57.
Melgum, river, Kingoldrum, ii. 78 ; Lin-
trathen, 187.
Melgund, castle, in Aberlemno, Forfar, i. 27.
Melista, in Uig, Ross and Cromarty, ii. 574.
Mellerstain, village, Earlstoun, ii. 244—
i. 352.
Melness, lands, Tongue, ii. 549, 550.
MELROSE, town, Roxburgh, ii. 244.
Melrose, Old, Melrose, ii. 244.
Melrose Head, Gamrie, Banff, i. 461.
Melsetter, lands, Walls and Sandness,ii. 589.
Melshach, hill, Kinnethmont, ii. 87.
Melundy, hill, Dallas, i. 263.
Melvich, village, Reay, ii. 247.
Melville, ancient parish, Lasswade, ii. 153.
Melville, seat, Monimail, ii. 265— i. 213.
Melville Castle, Lasswade, ii. 153.
Menaway, hills, Keig, ii. 1.
Menmuir, parish, Forfar, ii, 247.
Menstrie, village, Logie, Clackmannan, ii.
248.
Menzies, castle, Weem, ii. 595, 596.
Meuzion, farm, Tweedsmuir, ii. 568.
Merchants, The, rocks, Southend, ii. 477.
Merchiston, castle, Morningside, ii. 280.
Merchiston, New, Falkirk, ii. 158.
Merkland, cross, Kirkpatrick-Flemino- ii
123.
Merkland, loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Merkland, mansion, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Merryston, village, Old Monkland, ii. 248.
Merryston, West, village, Old Monkland
ii. 248.
Merse, Berwickshire, i. 126.
Mersington, fortress, Eccles, i. 355.
Merton Hall, Penninghame, ii. 355.
Mertoun, parish, Berwick, ii. 248.
Mess John's Well, in Aberdour, Aberdeen
i. 23.
Methelnie, Aberdeen. See Meldrum.
Methill, district, Fife, ii. 249, 597, 598.
Methill, hill, Peterhead, ii. 370.
Methlick, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 249.
Methven, parish, Perth, ii. 250.
Mey, East and West, townships, Caith-
ness, ii. 252 — i. 1 75.
Meyrick, hill, Minnigaff, ii. 257.
Mhiefail, Loch, in Harris, ii. 517.
Mhor, promontory, Loehbroom, ii. 192.
Mid or Middle Calder. See Calder, Mid.
And all places having a similar distinguish-
ing prefix will be found under the proper
name.
Midbrake, house, Fetlar and North Yell, i.
424.
Middle Blelock. See Bleloclc, Middle.
Middlebie, parish, Dumfries, ii. 252.
Middlefield, house, Cupar, i. 256.
Middlefield, lands, Langton, ii. 149.
Middlefoodie, burn, Dairsie, i. 260.
Middleton, Edinburghshire, i. 233.
Middleton, hamlet, Orwell, ii. 253.
Middleton, mansion, Kirkden, ii. 105.
INDEX.
Middleton and North Middleton, villages,
Borthwick, ii. 253.
Middleton, North and South, burns, Borth-
wick, i. 145.
Middleton Hall, Uphall, ii. 580.
Middleton House, Borthwick, i. 145.
Midfield, in Inveresk, i. 570.
Midgarth, Holm of, in Stronsay, i. 545.
Mid Hills, Killin, ii. 37.
Midhope House, seat, in Abercorn, Linlith-
gow, i. 4.
Midland, hill, Orphir, ii. 333.
Midlem, village, Bowden, ii. 253 — i. 149,
150.
Midmar, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 253.
Mid-Muir, hills, Kilchrenan and Dalavich,
ii. 27.
Midshiels, house, Wilton, ii. 615.
Midtown, Lochwinnoch, ii. 202.
Migdol, loch, Criech, i. 234.
Miglo, stream, Strathmiglo, ii. 514.
Migvie, Aberdeen. See Tarland, ii. 254.
Milbay, village, Kilbrandon and Kilchattan,
ii. 254.
Milburn works, Bonhill, i. 141.
Milburn Tower, Ratho, ii. 404.
Milbuy hill, Avoch, i. 83.
Mildovan, lands, Cardross, i. 178.
Mildriggen, stream, Kirkinner, ii. 107.
Mile-End, village, suburb of Glasgow, ii.
254.
Milheugh, Blantyre, i. 136.
Milk, Water of, St. Mungo, ii. 293.
Mill, Loch, Lochmaben, ii. 198.
Mill, Loch, Newburgh, ii. 308.
Mill, West, village, Cockpen, ii. 254.
Millarston, village, Paisley, ii. 254.
Mill Bank, mansion, St. Mungo, ii. 293.
Millbank, near Eyemouth, i. 410.
Millbank, mansion, Morningside, ii. 280.
Millbank, seat, St. Vigean's, ii. 587.
Mill Bay, in Stronsay, ii. 519.
Millbay, village, Kilbrandon and Kilchat-
tan, ii. 20.
Millbrake, in Old Deer, i. 276.
Millbrex, district, Aberdeen, ii. 254— i.
457.
Millbridge, hamlet, Cathcart, ii. 254.
Mill-Burn, in Gairsay, i. 458.
Millburn, in Tarbolton, Ayr, ii. 530.
Millburn, mansion, Dalserf, i. 270.
Millburn, stream, Dirleton, i. 282.
Mill-Dam, loch, Gigha and Cara, i. 472.
Mill-Danes, Kinglassie, ii. 78-
Millden, Lochlee, ii. 197-
Millearne, seat, Trinity-Gask, i. 469.
Millenwood Fell, Roxburghshire, ii. 440.
Millerhill, Easter and Wester, villages,
Newton, ii. 254.
Mille-Rinidh, mountain, Eddrachillis, i. 360.
Miller's Acre, in Forteviot, i. 447-
Millerston, village, suburbs of Glasgow, ii.
255.
Millerton Hill, Aytou, i. 90.
Millfield, hamlet, Inverkeillor, ii. 255.
Millfield, seat, Polmont, ii. 379.
Mill Glen, in Tillicoultry, ii. 540.
Millguy, Stirling. See Milngavle.
Mill-Hall, in Eaglesham, i. 350.
Millhead, estate, Kirkmahoe, ii. 112.
Millheugh, bridge, Hamilton, i. 534.
Millheugh, village, Dalserf, ii. 255.
Mill Hill, Carmichael, i. 181.
631
Mill-Hill, farm, Gartly, i. 466.
Milligs, village, Row parish, ii. 255, 438.
Milliken House, Kilbarchan, ii. 17.
Mill-Lead, Tibbermore, ii. 539.
Mill of Banff, i. 103.
Mill of Carden, Premnay, ii. 392.
Mill of Halden, village, Bonhill, ii. 254.
Millport, village, Great Cumbray, ii. 255 —
i. 251.
Mills of Forth, village, Kinross, ii. 255.
Milltown, village, Rothiemay, ii. 255, 435.
Milltown of Auchterhouse, Forfar, i. 80.
Millwell, in Glassford, i. 500.
Milna Craig, bridge, Glenisla, i. 506.
Milnathort, village, Kinross, ii. 255 — ii.
89, 334.
Milne-Graden, in Coldingham, i. 210.
Milngavie, village, New Kilpatrick, ii. 255.
Milnhaugh, Moneydie, ii. 263.
Milnhead, estate, Kirkmahoe, ii. 112.
Milnhouse, village, in Applegarth, i. 55.
Milnmount House, Kilmuir Easter, ii. 54.
Milntown, hamlet, Urquhart, ii. 583.
Milntown, village, Kilmuir Easter, ii. 256.
Milrig, mansion, Ricearton, ii. 421.
Milton, Dunipace. See Herbertshire.
Milton, lake, Urr, ii. 585.
Milton, suburbs of Glasgow, district, ii. 256.
Milton, village, Campsie, ii. 256.
Milton, village, Glammis, ii. 256.
Milton, village, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 256 — i.
304.
Milton, village, St. Cyrus, ii. 256.
Milton-Brodie, house, in Alves, Elgin, i. 41.
Milton House, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59.
Milton-Lockhart, mansion, Carluke, i. 180.
Milton-Mill, hamlet, Gleneross, i. 504.
Milton of Balgonie, village, Fife, ii. 256.
Milton of Mathers, village, St. Cyrus, ii.
256— i. 258.
Miltown, village, Auchterarder, ii. 472.
Miltown, village, Jura, i. 591.
Miltown, village, Killiernan, ii. 36.
Minchmoor, hill, Traquair, ii. 560.
Minden Cottage, Peebles, ii. 349.
Mindernal, hill, Durris, i. 344.
Mindork, castle, Kirkowan, ii. 122.
Mindrum, farm, Yetholm, ii. 622.
Minefield, mansion, Lismore and Appin, ii.
190.
Mine-house, Logie, ii. 205.
Mingala, isle, Barra, Inverness, ii. 257— i.
107.
Mingary, castle, in Ardnamurchan, i. 66.
Minginish, district, Bracadale, i. 151.
Minister's Well, Roseneath, ii. 427.
Minn, in Sandsting and Aithsting, ii. 450.
Minnick, stream, Sanquhar, ii. 454.
Minnigaff, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 257.
Minnoch, stream, Barr, i. 106.
Minnyhive, village, Dumfries, ii. 258 — i.
502.
Mintlaw, village, Longside, ii. 258 — ii. 213.
Minto, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 258.
Mirroch Bay, Portpatrick, ii. 388.
Misery, Mount, Kilmaronock, ii. 44.
Mishnish, lands, Tobermory, ii. 546.
Misty Law, hill, Lochwinnoch, ii. 201.
Moan, loch, Kirkmabreck, ii. 111.
Moat, in Ochiltree parish, ii. 327.
Moat, The, in Glencairn, i. 502.
Moat, The, in Tyrie, Aberdeen, ii. 571.
Moat Brae, Dumfries, i. 308.
Mochrum, hill, Kirkoswald, ii. 120.
Mochrum, parish, Wigton, ii. 259.
Mochrum Fell, Parton, ii. 347.
MOFFAT, parish, Dumfries and Lanark, ii.
260.
Moffat, Easter, residence, i. 119.
Moffat Mills, Clarkston, i. 200.
Moffat, Wester, residence, New Monkland,
ii. 268.
Moidart, district, Argyll, i. 64, 65, 60.
Moir, loch, Eddrachillis, i. 360.
Molas, isle, Bute, ii. 141.
Mollance, seat, Crossmichael, i. 96, 242.
Mollensburn, village, Cadder, ii. 261.
Molmont, hill, New Galloway, i. 460, 461.
Mouadlia, hills, Laggan, ii. 139.
Monaebrugh, Kilsyth, ii. 61.
Monaltrie House, Glenmuick, i. 508.
Monaltry, lands, Crathie, i. 229.
Monan's, St., fishing-town, Fife, ii. 2€2— i. 5.
Monar, loch, Kilmorack, ii. 49.
Monboddo, mansion, Fordoun, i. 437-
Moncrieffe, isle, Kinnoull, ii. 88.
Moncrieffe, old chapelry, and mansion,
Perth, i. 312, 313.
Moncur, castle, Inchture, i. 561.
Moness, falls, near Aberfeldy, Perth, i. 24.
Moness, house, Dull, i. 301.
Moneydie, parish, Perth, ii. 262.
Money Point, in Stoneykirk, ii. 501.
Monfode, Ardrossan, Ayr, i. 68.
Moniack, mansion, Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Monifieth, parish, Forfar, ii. 263.
Monikie, parish, Forfar, ii. 264.
Monbiail, parish, Fife, ii. 265.
Monivaird and Strowan, pai'ish, Perth, ii.
266.
Monk-Callie, lands, Bendochy, i. 117-
Monkcastle, residence, Kilwinning, ii. 67.
Monk-Dyke, lands, Renfrew parish, ii. 414.
Monkeigie and Kinkell, Aberdeen. See
Keith-Hall.
Monkland, ancient name for Rerwick, ii. 4 16.
Monkland, New or East, parish, Lanark,
ii. 267.
Monkland, Old, parish, Lanark, ii. 269.
Monklaw, in Jedburgh, i. 588.
Monk- Mire, lands, Bendochy, i. 117-
Monkrigg, house, Haddington, i. 528.
Monks' Croft, Hassendean, i. 537.
Monk's House, Auskerry, Orkney, i. 83.
Monkstadt, Kilmuir, ii. 53.
Monkston, village, Collessie, ii. 270.
Monk's Well, Ladykirk, ii. 139.
Monkton and Pbestwick, parish, Ayr, U.
270.
Monktonhall, village, Inveresk, ii. 271 — i.
570.
Monkton House, Inveresk, ii. 271.
Monkton-Mains, seat, Monkton and Prest-
wick, ii. 271.
Monqohitter, pai'ish, Aberdeen, ii. 271.
Monreith House, Mochrum, ii. 260.
Monrieth, or Monreith, village, Glasser-
ton, ii. 272.
Mons, The, hill, Dalmeny, i. 265.
Montblairy House, in Alvah, Banff, i. 41.
Montcoffer, woods, Banff, i. 102.
Montcoffer House, King-Edward parish, ii.
75.
Monteith, district, Stirling, i. 463.
Monteith, Port of. See Port of Monteith.
Monteithmont Muir, in Farnell, i. 417-
INDEX.
Monteviot House, Grafting, i. 226.
Montgoinerie House, Tarbolton, ii. 530.
Monthrewmont, forest, Kinnell, ii. 85.
Montkeggie. See JZeith-Hall.
Montlokowre, hill, Kirkmaiden, ii. 1 13.
Montrave, mansion, Seoonie, ii. 458.
MONTROSE, burgh, Forfar, ii. 272.
Montrose, Old, Marytown, ii. 236.
Montrose's Dyke, Banchory-Ternan, i. 100.
Monwig, lake, in Aberdour, Aberdeen, i. 22.
Montmusk, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 274.
Monynut, stream, Innerwick, i. 562.
Monzie, burn, Leuchars, ii. 174.
Monzie, parish, Perth, ii. 276.
Monzievaird, Perthshire. See Monimird.
Moodiesburn, village, Cadder, ii. 277.
Moodlaw, lake, Roberton, ii. 422.
Moonzie, parish, Fife, ii. 277.
Moorfoot Hills, Edinburghshire, i. 391.
Moorland, Luss, ii. 223.
Moral, waterfall, Urquhart, ii. 582.
Morangie, burn, Tain, ii. 527.
Moray, county of. See Elginshire.
Mordington, parish, Berwick, ii. 277.
More, loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Morebattle and Mow, parish, Roxburgh,
ii. 278— i. 358.
Moredun, hill, Dunbarny, i. 312.
Moredun, seat, Liberton, ii. 177, 178.
Moreinsh, Kenmore, ii. 13.
Morham, parish, Haddington, ii. 279.
Morinish Castle, Kilniuiau and Kilmore, ii.
55.
Morir, loch, in Ardnamurchan, Argyll, i.
64, 65.
Morir, North, in Glenelg, i. 64, 505, 506.
Morir, South, district, Argyll, i. 64, 65, 66.
Mormond, hill, Strichen, ii. 515.
Mormond, village, Aberdeen, ii. 280.
Mormond House, Rathen, ii. 402.
Morningside, district, Edinburgh, ii. 280.
Morphy, St. Cyrus, i. 258, 259.
Morriston, stream, Urquhart and Glenmor-
riston, ii. 582.
Morthill, height, Olrick, ii. 328.
Morthwait, lands, Temple, ii. 535.
Mortimer's Deep, channel, Fife, i. 23.
Mortlach, parish, Banff, ii. 280— i. 19.
Mortlich, hill, Coull, i. 219.
Morton, estate, Forgan, i. 441.
Morton, parish, Dumfries, ii. 281 — i. 539.
Morton Hall, Liberton, ii. 177, 178.
Morven, hill, Glenmuick, Aberdeen, i. 507.
Morven, mountain, Latheron, ii. 154.
Morvern, parish, Argyll, ii. 282.
Morvich, hill, Golspie, i. 511.
Moss, Killearn, ii. 35.
Mossat, stream, Auehindoir, i. 75.
Mossbank, house, Delting, i. 277.
Mossburnford, Jedburgh, i. 587, 588.
Mosscastle, in Crawfordjohn, i. 231.
Mossfennan, house, Broughton, i. 156.
Mossfield, Alness, i. 154.
Moss- Flanders, Port of Monteith, ii. 387.
Moss House, Govan, i. 515.
Mossknowe, mansion, Kirkpatrick-Fleming,
ii. 124.
Mosstodlach, village, Speymouth, ii. 284.
Moss Tower, Eckford, i. 357, 358.
Mosstowie, vale, Elgin, i. 398.
Mote Hill, Stirling, ii. 490.
Motherwell, village, Dalziel, ii. 284.
Motray, river, Kilmany, ii. 41.
632
Moulin, parish, Perth, ii. 284.
Mounie, lands, Daviot, i. 273.
Mountains Cross, Newlands, ii. 311.
Mount Blair. See Blair, Mount. And all
hills hating a similar prefix will be also
found under the proper name, and not under
the head Mount.
Mount-Annan, house, Dumfries, i. 52.
Mount-Blow, seat, Old Kilpatrick, ii. 59, 60.
Mount-Cyrus, in St. Cyrus, i. 259.
Mountgerald,seat,Ross andCromarty, ii. 430.
Mountgower, Durris, i. 344.
Mountgreenan House, Kilwinning, ii. 67-
Mount-Hill, Kirkurd, ii. 128.
Mount- Hill, Monimail, ii. 265.
Mount-Lothian, ancient parish, Penicuick,
ii. 352.
Mount-Melville, house, in Cameron, i. 172.
Mount-Pleasant, Newburgh, Fife, ii. 285.
Mountquhanie, Kilmany, ii. 41.
Mountstuart, seat, Kingarth, ii. 74.
Mount-Vernon, mansion, Crossbill, i. 241.
Mount-Vernon, residence, Liberton, ii. 178.
Mournack, hill, Stornoway, Lewis, ii. 502.
Mourning Well, Tyrie, ii. 571.
Mousa, isle, Shetland, ii. 285, 452.
Mouss, vale, Lanark, ii. 142.
Mouswald, parish, Dumfries, ii. 285.
Mow, Roxburgh. See Morebattle.
Mowhaugh, in Morebattle and Mow, ii. 279.
Mowick, bay, in Fetlar, i. 423.
Moy, Elgin. See Dyke and Mot/.
Moy and Dalrossie, parish, Nairn and In-
verness, ii. 286.
Moyness, old castle, Auldearn, i. 82.
Muchalls, Fetteresso, i. 426.
Muck, island, Argyll, ii. 287.
Muck, loch, Dalmellington, i. 264.
Muckairn, district, Argyll, ii. 288.
Muckarsie, Linn of, Forteviot, i. 447.
Muckart, parish, Perth, ii. 288.
Muckerach Castle, in Cromdale, i. 240.
Mucklarie, lands, Dunkeld, i. 330.
Muckle-Burn, in Ardclach, i. 63.
Muckle Ferry, Dornoch, i. 286.
Muckle Loch, in Slains and Forvie, ii. 468.
Muckle Skerry, Skerries, Shetland, ii. 466.
Mueross, St. Andrew's, Fife, i. 45.
Mudale, stream, Farr, i. 418.
Mugdock, castle, Strathblane, ii. 510.
Mugdock, Loch, Strathblane, ii. 511.
Mugdrum, isle, Abernethy, Perth, ii. 289,
306.
Muick, loch, Glenmuick, i. 508.
Muick, stream, in Glenmuick, i. 507.
Muidhe-Bhlarie, hill, Edderton, i. 359.
Muilie, loch, Kilmorack, ii. 49.
Muiravonside, parish, Stirling, ii. 289.
Muirdrum, village, Panbride, ii. 290.
Muirdykes, Lochwinnoch, ii. 203.
Muirellis, lands, Gartly, i. 466.
Muirends, Knocbbain, ii. 137-
Muiresk House, Turriff, ii. 567-
Muirhead, hamlet, Kettle, ii. 290.
Muirhead, hamlet, Liff, Benvie, and Inver-
gowrie, ii. 290.
Muirhead, village, Cadder, ii. 290.
Muir House, Cramoud, i. 227-
Muirhouse, estate, Ormiston, ii. 331.
Muirhouses, village, Carriden, ii. 290.
Muirkirk, parish, Ayr, ii. 291.
Muir Moss, Kirriemuir, ii. 130.
Muirness, house, Cambusnethan, i. 171.
Muir of Leckan, in Kilchrenan and Dalavich,
ii. 27.
Muirsheil, mansion, Lochwinnoch, ii. 202.
Muirside, hamlet, Kinnell, ii. 85.
Muirside, hamlet, Logie-Pert, ii. 292.
Muirtown, house, Inverness, i. 577-
Muirtown- Green, Inverness, i. 578.
Muiry Hall, lands, Queensferry, ii. 397.
Mulbuy, hill, Killiernan, ii. 36.
Muldren, estate, West Calder, i. 167.
MULL, Isle of, Argyll, ii. 292.
Mull head, Deerness, i. 277.
Mull of Cantyre, Southend, ii. 476, 477-
Mull of Cara, in Gigha and Cara, i. 472.
Mull of Galloway, Kirkmaiden, ii. 1 13.
Mull of Logan, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Mull of Papa, Orkney, ii. 346.
Mullion, barony, Redgorton, ii. 411.
Mulloch, bay, Rerwick, ii. 416.
Mulroy, in Kilmonivaig, ii. 48.
Multivie, in Alness, Ross and Cromarty, i.
39.
Muncraig Head, Borgue, i. 142.
Mundole, farm, Forres, i. 445.
Muuess, in Unst, Shetland, ii. 579.
Mungo, St., parish, Dumfries, ii. 293.
Mungo's, St., Well, Penicuick, ii. 352.
Munloehy, bay, Avoch, i. 83, 84.
Munlochy, village, Knockbain, ii. 294 — ii.
137.
Munnock, burn, Ardrossan, Ayr, i. 68.
Muolbuie, ridge, Urquhart, ii. 584.
Murdoch, Loch, Tinwald, ii. 543.
Murdostown, estate, Shotts, i. 119.
Murie, lands, Errol, i. 405.
Murieston, stream, Calder, i. 166, 167.
Murieston, Easter, lands, i. 167.
Murkle, bay, Olrick, ii. 328.
Murkle House, Thurso, ii. 539.
Murray's Hall, hill, Kinnoull, ii. 88.
Murray's Hall, St. Ninian's, ii. 320.
Murraythwaite, Dumfriesshire, i. 309.
Murroch, glen, Dumbarton, i. 303.
Murroes, parish, Forfar, ii. 294.
Murthly, district, Little Dunkeld, i. 331.
Murtle, rivulet, Peterculter, ii. 367.
Murtle House, Peterculter, ii. 368.
Musa, isle, Shetland. See Mousa.
Musdale, isle, Lismore and Appin, ii. 189.
Muses, Temple of the, Mertoun, ii. 249.
MUSSELBURGH, burgh, Edinburgh, ii.
294.
Mute Hill, in Caputh. i. 177-
Muthili., parish, Perth, ii. 296.
Mutiny Stones, Longformacus and Ellim, ii.
211.
Mutton-Brae, Free churches, Aberdeen, i.
17.
Mylnefield, lands, Longforgan, ii. 210, 211.
Myothill, in Denny, i. 278.
Myre, in Moonzie parish, ii. 277-
Myres Castle, seat, Auchtermuchty, i. 81.
Myreside, hamlet, Kettle, ii. 297-
Myrton Cottage, Mochrum, ii. 260.
N
Nagana, loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
NAIRN, burgh, county of Nairn, ii. 298— i.
64, 82.
Nairn, river, Daviot, i. 274.
NAIRNSHIRE, ii. 299.
INDEX.
Naluire, loch, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Nanthorn, in Ednam, i. 393.
Naughton House, Balmerino, i. 08.
Naunt, river and loeh, Ardchattan, ii. 288.
Navar, Forfar. See Lethnot.
Naver, river and loch, Farr, i. 418.
Naw, loeh, Leswalt, ii. 172.
Neartay, isle, Harris, Inverness, ii. 299.
Necropolis, Glasgow, i. 490.
Needle's Eye, in Colvend, i. 215.
Needle's Eye, Logie-Buchan, ii. 200.
Neidpath, castle, Peebles, ii. 348, 349.
Neilston, parish, Renfrew, ii. 299.
Nell, loch, Kilmore and Kilbride, ii. 51.
Nemphlar, Lanark, ii. 144.
Nenthorn, parish, Berwick, ii. 301 .
Nerston, hamlet, East Kilbride, ii. 23.
Ness, Ross and Cromarty. See Cross.
Ness, island, Shetland, ii. 302 — i. 153.
Ness, river, Inverness, i. 577-
Ness Bay, North Ronaldshay, Orkney, ii. 424'.
Ness, Glen of, Dalmellington, i. 264.
Ness, Loch, Boleskine, i. 139.
Nesting, Lunasting, and Whalsay, parish,
Shetland, ii. 302.
Nestwood, mansion, Berwick, ii. 416.
Nethan Water, Lesmahago, ii. 171.
Netherbyres, mansion, Ayton, i. 90.
Netherdale, seat, Marnoch, ii. 232.
Nether Gask, Perthshire. See Gash, Nether.
Netherhouse, in Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Netherlaw, mansion, Rerwick, ii. 416.
Netherlee, hamlet, Cathcart, ii. 303.
Netherley, mansion, Fetteresso, i. 426.
Nethermains, hamlet, Kinnaird, ii. 303.
Nethermill, in Aberdour, Aberdeen, i. 22, 23.
Nethermill, in Fettercairn, i. 425.
Nethermill, burn, in Abercorn, Linlithgow-,
i. 4.
Nethermill, burn, Gamrie, i. 462.
Nethermills, hamlet, Grange, i. 518.
Nethei'place, in Mearns parish, ii. 313.
Netherplace, mansion, Mauehline, ii. 237.
Nether Tofts, farm, Kirktoun, ii. 127.
Netherton, in Hamilton, i. 535.
Netherton, New Kilpatrick, ii. 58, 135.
Netherton-Quarry, village, New Kilpa-
trick, ii. 303.
Nethenrrd House, Kirkurd, ii. 127, 128.
Netherwood, in Cumbernauld, i. 250.
Nethy, river, Abernethy, Perth, i. 28.
Nethy, river, Abernethy, Elgin, i. 28.
Neyay, Forfar. See Eassie and Nevay.
Nevis, river, Kilmalie, ii. 40.
Nevis, Loch, Glenelg, i. 505.
New Galloway-. See Galloicay, New. And
all places having a similar distinguishing
prefix will be found under the proper name.
Newabrey, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 303.
Newark, Selkirk parish, ii. 460.
Newark, castle, Maybole, ii. 241.
Newark, district, Lady parish, Orkney, ii. 1 38.
Newark, district, Renfrew, ii. 304, 382.
Newark, mansion-house, in Abercrombie,
Fife, i. 5.
Newark Castle, Yarrowford, ii. 619.
Newarthill, village, Bothwell, ii. 304— i.
148.
Newbarns, estate, Oathlaw, ii. 325.
Newbattle, parish, Edinburgh, ii. 304.
Newbigging, house, Burntisland, i. 101.
Newbigging, house, Carnock, i. 184.
Newbigging, village, Auchtertool, ii. 306.
Newbigging, village, Carnwath, ii. 305.
Vol. I.— 633
Newbigging, village, Newtyle, ii. 306, 316.
Newbigging, village, Tealing, ii. 306.
Newbottle, Edinburgh. See Newbattle.
Newbridge, hamlet, Terregles, ii. 306.
Newbridge, village, Kirkliston, ii. 306.
NEWBURGH, burgh, Fife, ii. 306.
Newburgh, sea-port, Aberdeen, ii. 306.
Newburn, parish, Fife, ii. 309.
Newby, estate, Annan, i. 51.
Newbyth, mansion, Whitekirk, ii. 605.
Newbyth, village, Aberdeen, ii. 309.
New-Castle, Inverness, i. 577.
New-Church, district, Dumfries, i. 307.
Newe, seat, Strathdon, ii. 513.
New-England, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Newfield, house, Dundonald, i. 320.
Newgord, holm, in Unst, ii. 579.
Newhall, district, Weem. ii. 595.
Newhall, house, Crail, i. 220.
Newhall, house, in Yester, ii. 620.
Newhall, lands, Kirkmichael and Cullicud-
den, ii. 119.
Newhall, mansion, Kettins, ii. 14.
New-Hall House, Penicuick, ii. 352, 353,
354.
New Halls, Queensferry, ii. 397.
Newhayen, district, Edinburgh, ii. 309— ii.
164.
Newhills, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 310.
Newholm, mansion, Dolphinton, i. 284.
Newhouse, in Bothwell, i. 545.
Newhouse, St. Ninian's, ii. 320.
Newington, district, Edinburgh, ii. 311.
Newlaud Mailings, Kirkintilloch, ii. 108.
Newlandrig, village, Borthwick, ii. 311.
Newlands, Cathcart, i. 192.
Newlands, in Fordoun, i. 437.
Newlands, in Garvald and Bara, i. 467.
Newlands, parish, Peebles, ii. 311.
Newliston, estate, Kirkliston, ii. 109, 110.
Newmaih, Blantyre, i. 136.
Newmains, residence, Lochmaben, ii. 198.
New-Mill, house, Dairsie, i. 260.
New Mills, near Bridge of Weir,i. 549.
Newmills, or Torry, Fife. See Torry.
Newmills, hamlet, Fordyce, ii. 312.
Newmills, village, Keith, ii. 311.
Newmiln, in Airth, Stirling, i. 34, 35.
Newmilns, burgh, Ayr, ii. 312 — ii. 217.
Newport, village, Forgan, ii. 312,
New-Posso, seat, Peeblesshire, ii. 351.
Newstead, village, Melrose, ii, 312.
Newton, in Criech, i. 234.
Newton, in Ednam, i. 393.
Newton, castle, Glenisla, i. 507.
Newton, estate, Kilmadock, ii. 39.
Newton, farm, Bedrule, i. 113.
Newton, hamlet, Kirkpatrick-Durham, ii.
312.
Newton, hamlet, in Wamphray, ii. 591.
Newton, hamlet, Wiston and Roberton, ii.
313.
Newton, house, in Alves, Elgin, i. 41 .
Newton, house, Cambuslang, i. 1 70.
Newton, house, Tibbermore, ii. 539.
Newton, mansion, Blairgowrie, i. 1 34.
Newton, mansion, Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Newton, parish, Edinburgh, ii. 312.
Newton, residence, Nairn, ii. 299.
Newton, seat, St. Vigean's, ii. 587.
Newton, village, Abercorn, ii. 313.
Newton, village, Glammis, ii. 313.
Newton, village, Great Cumbray, Bute, ii.
312.
New-ton, village, Mearns, ii. 313 — ii. 242.
Newton, village, Pencaitland, ii. 313, 352.
Newton, village, Urquhart and Wester
Logie, ii. 313.
Newton, Little, Nenthorn, ii. 302.
Newton-Collessie, seat, Fife, i. 428.
Newton-Don, seat, Nenthorn, ii. 302.
Newton-Donhouse, in Stitchell and Hume,
ii. 497.
Newton-Douglas, Peiminghame, ii. 314.
Newton-Grange, Newbattle, ii. 305.
Newton Hall, in Yester, ii. 620.
Newton Hall, mansion, Kennoway, ii. 14.
Newton House, Crawford, i. 230.
Newton House, Culsamond, i. 247.
Newton House, Newton parish, ii. 313.
Newton, Long, village, Yester, ii. 621.
Newton-Mill, mansion, Strickathrow, ii. 517-
Newtonmore, village, Kingussie, ii. 313.
Newton of Belltrees, hamlet, Lochwin-
noch, ii. 313.
Newton of Falkland, village, Fife, ii. 313.
Newton-Ralston, village, Renfrew, ii. 313.
Newtonshaw, village, Clackmannan, ii. 313.
NEWTON-STEWART, town, Wigton, ii.
314.
Newton-upon-Ayr, burgh, Ayr, ii. 314.
Newtown, hamlet, Bedrule, ii. 316.
Newtown, suburb, Cupar, i. 255.
Newtown, village, Abbotshall, ii. 315 — i. 2.
Newtown, village, Aberdour, ii. 316— i. 24.
Newtown, village, Borrowstounness, ii. 316.
Newtown, village, Fintry, ii. 316 — i. 431.
Newtown, village, Melrose, ii. 316.
New-Town. See Edinburgh.
Newtown of Pitcairn, village, Dunning, ii.
316.
Newtyle, in Caputh, i. 177.
Newtyle, parish, Forfar, ii. 316.
Newtyle railway, i. 318.
New Village, Newtyle parish, ii. 316.
Nibon, isle, Shetland, ii. 323.
Nicholas, St., Orkney. See Stronsatj.
Nicholas, St., parish. See Aberdeen.
Nicolson, barony, Temple, ii. 534.
Niddrie, lands, Liberton, ii. 177, 178.
Niddry, village, Kirkliston, ii. 317 — ii- 1 10,
111.
Niddry, Long. See Longnkldry.
Neilsland, house, Hamilton, i. 534.
Nigg, parish, Kincardine, ii. 317-
Nigg, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii. 318.
Nine-Stone Ridge, Castleton, i. 190.
Niuewar House, Dunbar, i. 312.
Ninewells, house, Chirnside, i. 197, 198.
Nine Wells, spring, Newburgh, ii. 307-
Ninian's, St., bay, Rothesay, ii. 434.
Ninian's, St., isle, Dunrossness, i. 338.
Ninian's, St., parish, Stirling, ii. '319.
Ninian's, St., Croft, in Govan, i. 516.
Nisbet, ancient parish, Roxburgh, i. 226.
Nisbet, in Edrom, i. 394.
Nisbet, hamlet, Pencaitland, ii. 322.
Nisbet, lands, in Culter, i. 248.
Nisbet, East and West, Roxburgh, ii. 322.
Nisbet House, Dalziel, i. 272.
Nith, river, Caerlaverock, i. 165 ; New
Cumnock, 253 ; Sanquhar, ii. 454 ; Tro-
queer, 561.
Nithsdale, Dumfriesshire, i. 308.
Nitshill, village, Paisley, ii. 322, 342.
Noarsa, village, Islay, Argyll, ii. 385.
Noblehouse, in Newlands parish, ii. 311.
Nochty, stream, Strathdon, ii. 512.
4 M
INDEX.
Noddle, river, Largs, ii. 151.
Noe, river, Ardchattan, Argyll, i. 62.
Noir, loch, Dallas, i. 263.
No Ness, headland, Dunrossness, Shetland,
ii. 452.
Noop, bay, Westray, ii. 600.
Noop, headland, Ness, Shetland, ii. 302.
Noran, rivulet, Careston, i. 179.
Noranside, estate, in Fearn, i. 420.
Norman-Dykes, ancient camp, Peterculter,
ii. 367-
Norman Law, Kilmany, ii. 41.
Norman's Law, hill, in Abdie, Fife, i. 2, 3,
Norriestown, district, Perth, ii. 322.
Norshield, lands, Eddlestone, i. 360.
North-Bar, near Beith, i. 1 13.
North Berwick. See Beraick, North. And
all places having a similar distinguishing
prefix will be found under the proper name.
North-British railway, i. 379.
Northchurch, district, Lanark, ii. 322.
Northern Abbey of Lindores, Aberdeen, i.
430.
Northesk, district, Edinburgh, ii. 323.
Northfield, Coldingham, i. 208.
Northfield House, Annan, i. 52.
North Head, headland, Peterhead, ii. 370.
North-Loch, Edinburgh, i. 372, 378.
Northmavine, parish, Mainland, Shetland,
ii. 323.
Northmuir, village, Kirriemuir, ii. 324.
North Parish. See Aberdeen.
Northwall, district, Lady parish, Orkney,
ii. 138.
North Water, river, Forfar. See Esk, North.
North- West Castle, Inch, i. 557.
Norton House, Ratho, ii. 404.
Norwick, bay, Unst, ii. 578.
Noss, county of Shetland, ii. 324.
Noss Head, Wick, ii. 610.
Noth, hill, Rhynie and Essie, ii. 419.
Novar House, seat, Ross and Cromarty, ii.430.
Nungate, suburb, Haddington, i. 528, 529.
Nunlands, in Foulden, i. 452.
Nunmill, in Twynholm, ii. 569.
Nunraw, burn, Whittingham, ii. 608.
Nunraw, house, Garvald and Bara, i. 467.
Nun's Spring, Ladykirk, ii. 139.
Nunton, High and Low, farms, Twynholm,
ii. 569.
Nut-Holm hill, St. Mungo, ii. 293.
Nyte, rivulet, in Abernyte, Perth, i. 30.
o
Oa, district, Argyll, ii. 324.
Oakfield, village, Beath,ii. 324.
Oakley, house, Torryburn, ii. 554.
Oakshaw Head, hill, Paisley, ii. 337, 343.
Oakwood, Selkirk parish, ii. 460.
Oar, stream, Dysart, i. 348.
Oathlaw, parish, Forfar, ii. 324.
OBAN, burgh, Argyll, ii. 325.
Obbe, in Harris, i. 536.
Ob-inag, harbour, Glenshiel, i. 510.
Obney Hills, Auchtergaven, i. 78, 79.
Ochil Hills, Logie, ii. 205.
Ochiltree, parish, Ayr, ii. 326— i. 84.
Ochterlony, mansion, Rescobie, ii. 417.
Ochtertyre, estate, Monivaird and Strowan,
ii. 267.
Ochtertyre, seat, Kincardine in Monteith, ii.
70.
634
Odin's Cave, Torosay, ii 552.
Odness, headland, Stronsay, ii. 519.
Ogilface, castle, Torphichen, ii. 553.
Ogilvie, glen, Glammis, i. 478.
Ogilvy Castle, Blackford, i. 131.
Ogle, Easter and Wester, seats, Tannadice,
ii. 528.
Ogston, old parish, Elgin, i. 290.
Oich, Loch, i. 576.
Oich, stream, Boleskine, i. 139.
Oikel, river, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Ola, St., county of Orkney. See Kirkwall.
Old Brocklehurst. See Broeklelmrst, Old.
And all places hating a similar distin-
guishing prefix will be found under the
proper name.
Oldcastle, hamlet, Slains and Forvie, ii. 327.
Oldenev, isle, Assynt, Sutherland, ii. 327-
Oldhamstocks, parish, Berwick, ii. 327.
Old Man of Hoy, Orkney, i. 550.
Old-Mill, Property of, Aberdeen, i. 18.
Oldrome, village, Dundonald, ii. 328.
Oldshields, in Biggar, i. 128.
Olivebank, seat, Inveresk, ii. 323.
Oliver Castle, in Tweedsmuir, ii. 568.
011a, harbour, Sandsting and Aithsting, ii.
450.
Ollaberry, mansion, Northmavine, ii. 324.
Olrick, or Olrig, parish, Caithness, ii. 328.
Omoa, village, Bertram-Shotts, ii. 329 — i. 1 1 9.
Opsay, isle, Harris, Inverness, ii. 329.
Orangefield, seat, Monkton and Prestwick,
ii. 271.
Oransay, isle, Morvern, ii. 283.
Orbost, mansion, Duirinish, i. 300.
Orcas, Cape, Orkney Islands, ii. 330.
Orchard Park, Bolton, i. 140.
Orchardton, bay, Sorbie, ii. 473.
Orchardton, mansion, Rerwick, ii. 416.
Orchardstown, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Orchil, stream, Boharm, i. 137, 138.
Orchy, river, Glenorchy, i. 509.
Ord-ban, hill, Rothiemurchus, ii. 436.
Ord Hill, in Drumoak, i. 294.
Ord House, Urray, ii 586.
Ord of Caithness, i. 166.
Ordens, Boindie, i. 1 39.
Ordie, hill, Dunkeld, i. 329.
Ordie, river, Auchtergaven, i. 78, 79.
Ordiquhill, parish, Banff, ii. 329.
Ore, river, Auchterderran, i. 78.
Ore Hope, bay, Walls and Sandness,ii.589.
Orinsay, island, North Uist, Inverness, ii.
329.
ORKNEY Islands, ii. 329.
Orland's, St., Stone, Glammis, i. 478.
Ormidale, lands, Kilmodan, ii. 48.
Ormiston, Eckford, i. 357, 358.
Ormiston, lands, Kirknewton and East
Calder, ii. 120.
Ormiston, parish, Haddington, ii. 330.
Ormond's Mount, Avoch, i. 84.
Ormsary, stream, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Oronsay, county of Argyll, ii. 333.
Orphir, parish, Orkney, ii. 333.
Orr, river, Fife, i. 428.
Orrea, Roman station, Redgorton, ii. 410.
Orrin, stream, Urray, ii. 585.
Orroland, mansion, Rerwick, ii. 416.
Orton, Rothes, ii. 432.
Orwell, parish, Kinross, ii. 334.
Oscar, Loch, Lismore and Appin, ii. 189.
Osnaburgh, village, Dairsie, ii. 335.
Osse-Skerry, rock, Northmavine, ii. 323.
Ossian's Seat, Little Dunkeld, i. 331.
Otterburn, in Longformacus and Ellim, ii.
211.
Otter House, Kilfinan, ii. 32.
Otterston, loch, Dalgety, i. 261.
Ottirvore, Barra, i. 107.
Ouan, Loch, Monivaird and Strowan, ii. 266.
Oude, river, Kilninver and Kilmelf'ord, ii. 57.
Our Lady's Well, Bedrnle, i. 1 13.
Overbie, camp, Eskdalemuir, i. 407.
Overbister, district, Lady parish, Orkney,
ii. 138.
Overhall, residence, Premnay, ii. 392.
Overlee, farm, Cathcart, i. 192.
Oversay, Islay, Argyll, i. 585.
Overtown, Smailholm, ii. 471.
Overtown, in Tulliallan, ii. 563.
Overtown, village, Cambusnethan, ii. 335.
Oxenford Castle, Cramond, i. 228.
Oxgang, seat, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Oxna, isle, Shetland, ii. 335.
Oxnam, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 335.
Oyne, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 336.
Pabay, isle, Skye, Inverness, ii. 337.
Pabba, isle, Barra, Inverness, ii. 337.
Pabbay, isle, Lewis, Inverness, ii. 337 — i. 118.
Pabba Y, isle, Uig, Ross and Cromarty, ii. 337.
Pad, hill, Renfrew, ii. 300.
Padanarum, village, Kirriemuir, ii. 337.
PAISLEY, burgh, Renfrewshire ; history,
ii. 337 ; description of the town, 338* ;
trade and manufactures, 339 ; municipal
affairs, 340 ; parish, 341 ; ecclesiastical
affairs, 342 ; schools and other charities,
343 ; remains of antiquity, 344. See also
i. 489, for railways.
Paiston, Ormiston, ii. 331, 332.
Palace-Craig, Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Palace-Walls, in Ashkirk, i. 72.
Paldy, old parish, Kincardine, i. 436.
Palnackie, village and sea-port, Kirkcud-
bright, ii. 345.
Palnure, MinnigafF, ii. 258.
Pananich, spring, Ballater, i. 94.
Panbride, parish, Forfar, ii. 345.
Panhope, harbour, Walls and Sandness, ii.
589.
Panmure House, Panbride, ii. 345.
Pap, mountain, Latheron, ii. 154.
Papa, isle, Shetland, ii. 346— i. 162.
Papa, Little, Shetland, ii. 346, 450.
Papa-Sound, village, Stronsay, ii. 519.
Papa-Stour, island, Shetland, ii. 346, 588,
589.
Papa-Stronsay, isle, Orkney, ii. 346.
Papa-Westray, isle, North Isles, Orknev,
ii. 346, 601.
Papal, bay, in North Yell, i. 423.
Papdale House, Kirkwall and St. Ola, ii. 129.
Papigo, headland, Wick, i. 155.
Paplay, Orkney. See Holm and Paplay.
Papple, in Whittingham, ii. 608.
Paps of Jura, mountains, Argyll, i. 69.
Parbroath, in Creich, i. 233.
Parf, district, Durness, i. 342.
Park, estate, Drumoak, i. 294.
Park, estate, Lonmay, ii. 214.
Park, estate, Ordiquhill, ii. 329.
Park, farm, Garvald and Bara, i. 467.
Park, lands, Morton, ii. 281.
Park, mansion, Drymen, i. 297.
INDEX.
Park, peninsula, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Park, seat, Inchinnau, i. 558.
Park Castle, Old Luce, ii. 218.
Park Farm, Blantyre, i. 136.
Parkhead, village, near Glasgow, ii. 34fi.
Park Hill, seat, Polmout, ii. 379.
Parkhill, Kilmuir Easter, ii. 54.
Parkhill, mansion, New Maehar, ii. 226.
Parkhill, mansion, Rattray, ii. 407-
Parkhill, seat, St. Vigean's, ii. 587-
Parkhouse, hill, Old Deer, i. 276, 277.
Park-Moor, in Tarbolton, ii. 531.
Parrymont, hill, in Rathven, i. 403.
Parsonscroft, lands, near Glasgow, i. 44.
Parson's Lake, Kilninver and Kilmelford,
ii. 57.
Partick, district, Lanark, ii. 346.
Parton, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 346.
Paterson's Rock, Southend, ii. 477-
Pathhead, district, Fife, ii. 347.
Pathhead, village, Crichton, ii. 347 — i- 233.
Pathhead, village, New Cumnock, ii. 347.
Pathheads, Rathven, ii. 406.
Path-Struie, hamlet, Forgandenny, i. 443.
Patiemuir, village, Dunfermline, ii. 347.
Patna, village, Straiton, ii. 348, 507.
Pavilion, The, Ardrossan, Ayr, i. 67.
Paxton, village, Hutton, ii. 348— i. 553.
Pearsie, mansion, Kingoldrum, ii. 78.
Pease Den, Cockburnspath, i. 206.
Peashills, farm, Balmerino, i. 98.
Peat, hill, Selkirk parish, ii. 460.
Peatie, hamlet, Kettins, ii. 348.
Peattie, burn, Bervie, i. 121.
Peattoun, residence, Roseneath, ii. 428.
PEEBLES, burgh, Peeblesshire, ii. 348.
PEEBLESSHIRE, or Tweeddale, ii. 350.
Peel-Bog, wooden castle, Lumphaiian, ii.
219, 220.
Peelwalls, house, Ayton, i. 90.
Peffei', river, Aberlady, i. 25 ; Athelstane-
ford, 73 ; Dirleton, 282.
Peffery, rivulet, Fodderty, i. 434, 435.
Pegal Head, Walls parish, Orkney, ii. 421.
Peindinavaig, hill, Portree, ii. 389.
Pelphrie, burn, Menmuir, ii. 248.
Pencaitland, parish, Haddington, ii. 351.
Penelheugh, eminence, Roxburgh parish, ii.
439.
Penkill, river, Minnigaff, ii. 258.
Penmore, seat, Colmonell, i. 213.
Penick, house of, Auldearn, i. 83.
Penicuick, parish, Edinburgh, ii. 352.
Pennan, village, Aberdour, ii. 354 — i. 22, 23.
Pennersaughs, parish, Middlebie, ii. 252.
Penninghame, parish, Wigton, ii. 354.
Pennycross House, Kilfinichen and Kilvi-
ceuen, ii. 33.
Pennyccick, Edinburgh. See Penicuick.
Pennygowan, Torosay, ii. 551.
Pennymuir, in Oxnam parish, ii. 335, 336.
Penpont, parish, Dumfries, ii. 355.
Penshiel, old parish, Dunbar, i. 312, ii. 608.
Penston, village, Gladsmuir, ii. 357 — i.476,
477-
Pentecox, hamlet, Newton, ii. 357.
Pentland, ancient parish, Lasswade, ii. 153,
154.
Pentland, village, Lasswade, ii. 357.
Pentland Hills, Edinburghshire, i. 391.
Pentland Skerries, islands, Orkney, ii. 357.
Penton Linns, in Canobie, i. 1/6.
Penwherry, castle, Colmonell, i. 214.
635
Pepperwell Oak, Methven, ii. 251.
Perclewan, in Dalrymple, i. 269.
Percy Hill, Morebattle and Mow, ii. 278.
Perk Hill, Lumphanan, ii. 219.
Persey, district, Perth, ii. 357.
Pert, ancient parish, Logie-Pert, ii. 208.
PERTH, city, Perthshire ; history, ii. 357 ;
situation of the town, &c, 359 ; trade and
manufactures, 360 ; municipal affairs,
361 ; rural district, 362 ; ecclesiastical
affairs, 362 ; schools and charities, 363 ;
antiquities, 364. See also i. 362.
PERTHSHIRE, ii. 364.
Peter, St., North Isles, Orkney. See Stron-
say.
Peter, St., South Isles, Orkney. See South
Rcnatdshay.
Peterciilter, Aberdeen, ii. 367— i. 13.
PETERHEAD, burgh, Aberdeen, ii. 368—
i. 9.
Pf.terhythe, village, Rathven, ii. 370.
Petgornoc, lands, Fife, i. 97.
Pettie, or Petty, parish, Inverness and
Nairn, ii. 370.
Pettinain, parish, Lanark, ii. 372.
Petty, Inverness and Nairn. See Pettie.
Pettycur, harbour, Kinghorn, ii. 76.
Petyn, former parish, Pettie, ii. 370.
Pharay, island, North Isles, Orkney, ii. 373.
Pharay, island, South Isles, Orkney, ii. 373.
Phesdo, mansion, in Fordoun, i. 436.
Philiphaugh, in Selkirk, ii. 459, 460.
Phjlipstown, village, Abercorn, ii. 373.
Philorth, Fraserburgh, i. 165, 455.
Philorth, Water of, Rathen, ii. 402.
Phinstown, village, Firth and Stenness, i.432.
Physgill, in Glasserton, i. 499, 500.
Pibble, mountain, Kirkmabreck, ii. 111.
Picts' Howe, Logie-Coldstone, ii. 207.
Pierceby Hall, Tundergarth, ii. 565.
Pierceton, house, Dreghorn, i. 291.
Pierowall, bay, Westray, ii. 600.
Piershill, near Edinburgh, i. 589.
Pierwall, village, Ladykirk, ii. 373.
Pigeons' Cave, in Gigha and Cara, i. 471.
Piltanton, burn. See Poltanton.
Piuiel Heugh, in Crailing, i. 226.
Pinkie, Plains of, Inveresk, ii. 295.
Pinkie-burn, in Inveresk, i. 570.
Pinkie House, in Inveresk, i. 570.
Pinkterton, old parish, Dunbar, i. 312.
Pinnacle Hill, mansion, Kelso, ii. 8.
Piperhall, hamlet, Kingarth, ii. 373.
Pirn, mansion, Stow, ii. 504.
Pirntaiton, in Stow parish, ii. 504.
Pitalpie, Liff and Benvie, ii. 180.
Pitbeadly, hill, St. Cyrus, i. 258, 259.
Pitblado, house, Cupar, i. 256.
Pitcairly, lands, Newburgh, ii. 308.
Pitcaipn, county of Perth. See Newtoicn of
Pitcairn.
Pitcairn, mansiou, Dunning, ii. 316.
Pitcairn- Green, village, Redgorton, ii. 374.
Pitcairn House, Leslie, ii. 171.
Pitcaple, castle, in Chapel of Garioeh, i. 464.
Pitcon, lands, Dairy, i. 267.
Pitcorthie House, Carnbee, i. 183.
Pitcox, village, Stenton, ii. 374.
Pitcullo, mansion, Leuchaxs, ii. 174.
Pitcur, Ford of, hamlet, Kettins, ii. 374.
Pitdennies, burn, Cairneyhill, i. 165.
Pitdennies, lands, Carnock, i. 184.
Pitferrane. See Pitfrrane.
Pitfichie Castle, Monymusk, ii. 276.
Pitfirrane, house, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Pitfour, estate, Old Deer, i. 276.
Pitfour Castle, St. Madoes, ii. 227.
Pitgair, farm, Gamrie, i. 462.
Pitgaveny, in St. Andrew's Lhanbryde, El-
gin, i. 50.
Pitjossie, Arch of, in Aberdour, Aberdeen, i.
22.
Pitkanny, lands, Pettie, ii. 370.
Pitkeathly, house, Dunbaruy, i. 313.
Pitkeithly, mineral springs, Perth, i. 353.
Pitlessie, village, Cults, Fife, ii. 374— i.
249.
Pitlethie, Leuchars, ii. 175.
Pitliver House, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Pitlochrie, rivulet, Glenisla, Forfar, i. 506.
Pitlochry', village, Moulin, ii. 374.
Pitlour House, Strathmiglo, ii. 515.
Pitlyal, lake, Lundie and Fowlis, ii. 221.
Pitmachie, Oyne, ii. 336, 337.
Pitmedden, seat, Udny, ii. 572.
Pitmiddie, village, Kinnaird, ii. 374.
Pitmilly, seat, Kingsbarns, ii. 79.
Pitmudie, hamlet, Lintrathen, ii. 374.
Pitmuies, mansion, Kirkden, ii. 105.
Pitmurchie, seat, Lumphanan, ii. 219.
Pitormie, lands, Dairsie, i. 260.
Pitreavie House, Dunfermline, i. 322, 324.
Pitrodie, burn, Kilspindie, ii. 61.
Pitrodie, village, Kilspindie, ii. 374.
Pitscaudly, Hill of, Rescobie, ii. 417.
Pitscottie, Easter, lands, Ceres, i. 195.
Pitsligo, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 374.
Pitsligo, New, district, Aberdeen, ii. 375.
Pittairthy, castle, Dunino, i. 326.
Pittan Druidh, in Dunino, i. 326.
Pitteucrieff, glen, Dunfermline, i. 321, 323,
324.
PITTENWEEM, burgh, Fife, ii. 376.
Pittheveliss, village, East parish, Perth,
ii. 376.
Pittodrie, mansion, Oyne, ii. 336.
Pittrichie, house, Udny, ii. 572.
Pittullie, village, Aberdeen, ii. 377— ii.
375.
Plada, isle, Kilbrandon, Argyll, ii. 377-
Pladda, island, Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Plater, forest, Kirriemuir, ii. 131.
Piatt, South, hill, Ratho, ii. 403.
Plean, district, Stirling, ii. 377— ii. 320, 321.
Pleasance, Kirkmichael, ii. 11 7.
Plenderleath, in Oxnam parish, ii. 335.
Plockton, burgh, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
377— ii. 192.
Plodda, waterfall, Kiltarlity, ii. 63.
Pluscardine, vale, Elgin, i. 398, 399.
Poldown, harbour, in Applecross, i. 55.
Polgavie, harbour, Inchture, i. 560.
Polkemmet, seat, Whitburn, ii. 603.
Poll, rivulet, Aberfoyle, Perth, i. 24.
Pollach, creek, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii. 54.
Poll-Dubh, spring, Logie-Coldstone, ii. 207.
Pollock, Renfrew. See Eastwood.
Pollock, Upper, seat, Mearns, ii. 242.
POLLOCKSHAWS, town, Renfrew, ii. 377.
Polmadie, lands, Gorbals, 1.512, 515.
Polmailly, house, Urquhart, ii. 583.
Polmaise, mansion, St. Ninian's, ii. 321.
Polmoxt, parish, Stirling, ii. 378.
Polmood, seat, Peeblesshire, ii. 351.
Polnish, in Ardnamurchan, i. 66.
Polnoon, castle, Eaglesham, i. 350.
4M2
INDEX.
Polquhaise, farm, New Cumnock, i. 253.
Polquhite, estate, Culsamond, i. 247.
Pol-Roag, in Duirinish, i. 300.
Poltairve, creek, Kilfinicheu and Kilviceuen,
ii. 33.
Poltalloch, estate, Kilmartin, ii. 45.
Poltanton, river, Stoneykirk, ii. 501.
Poltiel, loch, Duirinish, i. 300.
Polton, mansion, Lasswade, ii. 153.
Polton-Street, village, Cock pen, ii. 3/9.
Polwarth, parish, Berwick, ii. 379.
Pomillon, river, East Kilbride, ii. 23.
Pomona or MAiNLAND,island, Orkney, ii. 380.
Ponfeigh, in Carmichael, i. 182.
Poniel Water, Lesmahago, ii. 171-
Pool, village, Muckart, ii. 380.
Poolewe, district, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
380.
Port-Allan, Whithorn, ii. 604.
Port-Allen, in Errol, i. 404.
Portanellan, lake, Kilmeny, ii. 46.
Port-Appin, village, Lismore and Appin, ii.
190.
Portavata, isle, Ardnaniurchan, Inverness,
ii. 380.
Port-Bannatyne, village, Bute, ii. 381.
Port-Carty, Kirkmabreek, ii. 111.
Port-Chaistel, in Tarbat, ii. 529.
Port-Charlotte, village, Kilchoman, ii. 27.
Port-Downie, near Falkirk, i. 379.
Port-Dundas, village, near Glasgow, ii. 381
— i. 488.
Porteasie, village, Rathven, ii. 381.
Port-Edgar, Queensferry, i. 371, ii. 397.
Port-Eglinton, in Govan, i. 515.
Port-Ellen, port, Islay, Argyll, ii. 381 — ii.
30.
Port-Elphinstone, village, Aberdeen, ii.
381— ii. 93.
Port-Float, bay, Stoneykirk, ii. 501.
Port-Gill, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
PORT -GLASGOW, burgh, Renfrew, ii.
381.
Port-Gordon, village, Banff, ii. 383 — i.403,
ii. 406.
Port-Gower, village, Loth parish, ii. 383 —
ii. 216.
Port Hill, Aberdeen, i. 10.
Port-Hopetoun, near Edinburgh, i. 379.
Portincross, West Kilbride, ii. 25.
Port-Innerwell, Sorbie, ii. 474.
Port-Kaile, bay, Portpatrick, ii. 388.
Port-Kill, Roseneath, ii. 428.
Portlethen, village, Bauchory-Devenick,
ii. 383— i. 100.
Portlich, village, Kilmuir Easter, ii. 383.
Port-Logan, village, Kirkmaiden, ii. 384 —
ii. 114.
Portmahomack, port, Ross and Cromarty,
ii. 384.
Port-Maluag, Lismore and Appin, ii. 188.
Port- Mary, Dundrennan, i. 321, ii. 416.
Portmoak, parish, Kinross, ii. 384.
Port-Montgomery, Portpatrick, ii. 387.
1'ortrnore, bay, Kirkcohn, ii. 99.
Port-Murray, bay, Portpatrick, ii. 388.
Portnacoultcr, in Criech, i. 233.
Portnacrolsh, village, Lismore and Appin,
ii. 385— ii. 190.
Port-na-Ctirrach, Iona, i. 583.
Portnafcamin, harbour, Argyll, i. 214.
Portnahaven, district, Islay, Argyll, ii. 385
— ii. 27.
636
Portnamurlaeh, Lismore and Appin, ii.
189.
Portnessock, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Portnockie, village, Rathven, Banff, ii. 385,
406.
Port-Nuick, Queensferry, ii. 397.
Portobello, burgh, Edinburgh, ii. 385.
Port of Monteith, parish, Perth, ii. 386 —
i. 25.
Port of the Athollmen, Craignish, i. 225.
Port-Our, Durness, i. 343.
PORTPATRICK, burgh, Wigton, ii. 387.
Port-Ranrsa, Lismore and Appin, ii. 189,
190.
Portree, parish, Skye, Inverness, ii. 388.
Portsburgh, burgh, Edinburgh, ii. 390 — i.
380.
Portseaton, village, Tranent, ii. 390.
Portskerray, village, Reay, Sutherland, ii.
390.
PORTSOY, burgh, Banff, ii. 391.
Port-Spittal, bay, Stoneykirk, ii. 501.
Portuisgen, creek, Kilfinichen and Kilvi-
ceuen, ii. 33.
Portvasgo, Tongue, ii. 549.
Port- William, village, Wigton, ii. 391 — ii.
260.
Port-Wymss, village, Kilchoman, ii. 27.
Port-Yarrock, Whithorn, ii. 606.
Posso, New, seat, Peeblesshire, ii. 351.
Potarch, Bridge of, Birse, i. 130.
Potento, mansiou, Meigle, ii. 243.
Pow, burn, Monkton and Prestwick, ii.
271.
Pow, river, in Airth, Stirling, i. 34, 35.
Pow, river, Madderty, ii. 226.
Powburn, stream, Duddingston, i. 297.
Powfoot, village, Ciunmertrees, ii. 391.
Powgavie, harbour, Inchture, i. 560.
Powgree, stream, Beith, i. 113.
Powis House, Logie, ii. 205.
Powrie, castle, Murroes, ii. 294.
Powsail, rivulet, Drummelzier, i. 293.
Poyntzfield, Kirkmichael and Cullicudden,
ii. 119.
Preacher's Burn, rivulet, Mull, Argyll, ii
446.
Premnav, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 392.
Prenderguest, estate, Ayton, i. 90.
Presholm, Rathven, ii. 406.
Press, ancient parish, Aberdeen, i. 130.
Prestelloch, lands, Luss, ii. 222.
Preston, Berwick. See Bunkle.
Preston, hamlet, Cranston, ii. 392.
Preston, village, Prestonpans, ii. 392.
Preston -Farm, Kirkbean, ii. 96.
Prestonfield House, Duddingston, i. 298.
Preston Hall, Cramond, i. 228.
Preston Hall, house, Cupar, i. 256.
Prestonhaugh, Prestonkirk, ii. 393.
Prestonholme, village, Cockpen, ii. 393.
Prestonkirk, parish, Haddington, ii. 393.
Preston-Mill, village, Kirkbean, ii. 392.
Prestonpans, parish, Haddington, ii. 393.
Preston Tower, in Fyvie, i. 457.
Prestwick, burgh, Ayr, ii. 395 — ii. 271.
Priest, isle, Lochbroom, in Ross and Cro-
marty, ii. 395.
Priesthaugh, in Cavers, i. 194.
Priestinch, lands, in Abercorn, Linlithgow,
i. 3, 4.
Priestown, farm, Tealing, ii. 534.
Priest's burn, in Abdie, Fife, i. 3.
Priest's Folly, lands, in Abercorn, Linlith-
gow, i. 3.
Priest's Isle, in Glenorchy, i. 509.
Priest's Well, Eckford, i. 358.
Primrose, Edinburgh. See Carrington.
Primside, loch, Morebattle and Mow, ii.
278.
Prince's Cave, South Uist, ii. 576.
Prinlaws, village, Leslie, ii. 170.
Priory-Lane, Dunfermline, i. 325.
Proaig, bay, Kildalton, ii. 29.
Prosen, river, Kirriemuir, ii. 131.
Prospect-Hill, tunnel, i. 379.
Proudfoot, headland, Wick, ii. 610.
Puidrac, in Balquhidder, i. 99.
Puip, Holm of, in Stronsay, i. 545.
Pulrossie, estate, Criech, i. 233, 234.
Pulteney-Town, Wick, Caithness, ii. 395,
609, 610.
Pundler's Know, Kettle, ii. 16.
Purves Hall, Eccles, i. 355.
Purves-Hill, farm, Innerleithen, i. 56],
Pyked Stane, Kirkurd, ii. 127.
Q
Quaas, in Dryfesdale, i. 296.
Quaich, stream, Dull, i. 301.
Quair, stream,. Traquair, ii. 560.
Quarff. See Bressay, and also Burra.
Quarrelton, village, Paisley, ii. 396 — ii.
342.
Quarrelwood, Kirkmahoe, ii. 113.
Quarry, village, Killiernan, ii. 36.
Quarrywood Hill, New Spynie, ii. 481, 482.
Quartachie, old parish, Forfar, i. 218.
Quarter, seat, Peeblesshire, ii. 351.
Quarter House, Dunipace, i. 327.
Queen Blearie's Stone, Renfrew, ii. 414.
Queen Mary's Camp, in Cathcart, i. 192.
Queen's Bath, Holyrood, Edinburgh, i. 375.
Queensberry hill, Closeburn, i. 202.
Queen's Chair, The, Aberdeenshire, i. 100.
QUEENSFERRY, burgh, Linlithgow, it.
396.
Queensferry, North, village, Fife, ii. 398.
Queenside, loch, Renfrewshire, ii. 415.
Queen's Isle, or Mousa Isle, Shetland,, ii.
285.
Queen's Mire, Hobkirk, i. 543.
Queen's Road, in Forgue, i. 444.
Queich, North, river, Orwell, ii. 334.
Queich, South, river, Fossoway, i. 451.
Quendale, bay, Dunrossness, i. 338.
Quendall, barony, Wandell, ii. 592.
Quhyte-Wooleu, hill, Dryfesdale, i. 296.
Quiech, castle, Tannadice, ii. 528.
Quien, loch, Kingarth, ii. 74.
Quinish Lodge, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii.
55.
Quiraing, plain, Kiliuuir, ii. 53.
Quivox, St., parish, Ayr, ii. 398.
Quothquan, village, Libberton, ii. 399 — ii.
176, 177.
Quytefield, in Inverkeillor, i. 571.
R
Rabbit Islands, in Tongue, ii. 549.
Rachan, Broughton, i. 155.
Raddery House, Rosemarkio, ii. 42C.
INDEX.
Radernie, lands, Cameron, i. 172.
Rae, loch, Lethendy and Kinlocli, ii. 173.
Raeberry, castle, Kirkcudbright, ii. 103.
Raeburnfoot, farm, Eskdalemuir, i. 407.
Raecleugh Head, Langtou, ii. 148.
Raehills, house, Johnstone, i. 589, 590.
Raemoir, house, Banchory-Ternan, i. 101.
Raffoed, parish, Elgin, ii. 399 — ii, 82.
Raigmore, house, Inverness, i. 577-
Rain, Old, village, Rayne, ii. 408.
Rait, castle, Nairn, i. 83.
Rait, village, Kilspindie, ii. 401— ii. 61.
Raith, estate, Fife, i. 1 and 2.
Raitts, burn, in Alvie, Inverness, i. 42.
Ralia, hamlet, Kingussie, ii. 401.
Ralston House, Paisley, ii. 342.
Rammerscales, mansion, Dalton, i. 271.
Ramshorn, lands, Glasgow, i. 483.
Randolph Field, Stirling, ii. 490.
Ranfurly Castle, Kilbarchan, ii. 17.
Rangag, lake, Latheron, ii. 154.
Range, Castle, Dalton, i. 271.
Rankeillor, house, Fife, i. 428.
Rankenshaugh, lands, near Glasgow, i. 44.
Rankleburn, rivulet, Ettrick, i. 407.
Rannaehie, moor, Cullen, i. 244.
Rannoch, district, Perth, ii. 401 — i. 449.
Ranza, loch, Kilbride, ii. 21, 22 ; Kilmorie,
51.
Raplock, village, Stirling, ii. 401.
Rapness, bay, Westray, ii. 600.
Rarichie, Wester, Nigg, ii. 319.
Rasay, island, Inverness, ii. 401 — ii. 389,
390.
Rasay, stream, Contin, i. 216.
Rashcrook, stream, Birnie, i. 128.
Rassay, island, Glenelg, Inverness, ii. 402.
Rathad-na-meirlich, road, Rothiemurehus,
ii. 436.
Rathen, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 402.
Rathillet, hamlet, Kilmany, ii. 403 — ii. 41.
Ratho, parish, Edinburgh, ii. 403— i. 510.
Rathven, parish, Banff, ii. 404.
Rattray, in Crimond, i. 236, 237.
Rattray, parish, Perth, ii. 406.
Ravelrig, Currie, i. 257, 258.
Ravelston, lands, Corstorphine, i. 217, 218.
Ravencraig, castle, Dysart, i. 347.
Ravenscraig Castle, Peterhead, ii. 370.
Ravenstruther, village, Carstairs, ii. 407.
Rawmone, in Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Raws of Noth, hamlet, Rhyme and Essie,
ii. 419.
Rayne, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 408.
Rea, lands, Glasgow, i. 512.
Reanlochbervie, Sutherland. See Kean-
lodiberme.
Reasknow, in Hawick, i. 539.
Reawick, house, Sandsting and Aithsting,
ii. 451.
Reay, parish, Caithness and Sutherland, ii.
408.
Reay Forest, Sutherland, i. 360.
Red-Beard's Well, Durris, i. 344.
Redburn, Blantyre, i. 136.
Redburn, viaduct, i. 379.
Redcastle, in Inverkeillor, i. 571.
Redcastle, Killiernan, ii. 36.
Red Chapel, Dunkeld, i. 330.
Redden-burn, Sprouston, ii. 481.
Redding, village, Stirling, ii. 410.
Redding Moor, Polmont, ii. 378.
Red Gill, well, in Alvah, Banff, i. 41.
637
Redgorton, parish, Perth, ii. 410.
Red-Hall, castle, Kirkpatrick-Fleming, ii.
123.
Redhall, barony, Colinton, i. 210.
Redhall, residence, Speymouth, ii. 479.
Redhead, in Eday, ii. 519.
Redhead, promontory, Inverkeillor, i. 571.
Redholm, isle, Orkney, ii. 411.
Red House, Morton, ii. 281.
Redhouse, castle, in Aberlady, Haddington,
i. 26.
Redhyth, point, Fordyce, i. 438.
Red Kirk, Graitney, i. 516, 517.
Red Moss, Madderty, ii. 226.
Red Moss, New Machar, ii. 226.
Rednock House, Port of Monteith, ii. 387.
Redpath, village, Earlstoun, ii. 411 — i. 352.
Red Bjver, in Uig, ii. 573.
Red Rocks, in Dysart, Fife, i. 349.
Redrow, village, Newton, Edinburgh, ii.
412.
Redstone, Kilwinning, ii. 66.
Red-Syke, in Biggar, i. 127.
Reeky Lynn, Lintrathen, ii. 187.
Reelick, mansion, Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Reiving-Craig, Bathgate, i. 111.
Relig-Owrau, in Iona, Argyll, i. 582.
Relugas House, Edinkillie, i. 393.
Rendall, county of Orkney. See Erie.
Renfield, district, near Glasgow, ii. 412.
RENFREW, burgh, Renfrewshire, ii. 412.
— ii. 340.
RENFREWSHIRE, ii. 414.
Renny-Hill, house, Kilrenny, ii. 60.
Renton, Cardross, i. 178.
Renton, Coldingham, i. 548, 549.
Renton, village, Dumbarton, ii. 416.
Repentance, Tower of, Cummertrees, i. 252.
Reres, hill, Kilconquhar, ii. 28.
Rerigonium, Wigtonshire, i. 555.
Rerwick, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 416.
Resawrie, hamlet, Inverness parish, ii. 417.
Rescobie, parish, Forfar, ii. 417.
Resga, isle, Ardnamurchan, Argyll, i. 64.
Resh Law, in Channelkirk, i. 196.
Resolis. See Kirkmichael and Cullicudden.
Resort, loch and rivulet, Uig, ii. 573.
Restalrig, village, South Leith, ii. 418 —
ii. 164.
Restenneth, loch, Lunanhead, ii. 221.
Restenneth, old parish, Forfar, i. 438, 440.
Resting, burn, Urcmhart, ii. 582.
Restlaw Haw, in Channelkirk, i. 196.
Reston, village, Coldingham, ii. 418— i. 548.
Reswallie, residence, Rescobie, ii. 417-
Retreat, lands, Longformacus and Ellini, ii.
212.
Retreat Cottage, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii.
55.
Rewcastle, hamlet, Bedrule, ii. 418.
Rheininver, loch, i. 263.
Rhians, stream, Tongue, ii. 548.
Rhidorch, vale, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Rhin, in Rogart, ii. 423.
Rhind or Rhynd, parish, Perth, ii. 418.
Rhives, mansion, Kilmuir Easter, ii. 54.
Rhodes, in North Berwick, i. 123.
Rhonehouse, village, Kelton, ii. 419 — ii. 9,
10.
Rhuandunan, in Bracadale, i. 151.
Rhueva, harbour, North Uist, ii. 574.
Rhu-Rairnish, headland, Lochs parish, ii.
200.
Rhymer's Tower, in Earlstoun, i. 352.
Rhynds, seat, Saline, ii. 447.
Rhynie and Essie, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 419.
Rhynns of Galloway, ii. 613.
Riccarton, parish, Ayr, ii. 419 — i. 223.
Ricearton, seat, Currie, i. 258.
Riddaw, Loch, Inverchaolain, i. 569.
Riddell, estate, Lilliesleaf, ii. 180.
Ridings, farm, Morton, ii. 282.
Ridon, Loch, Inverchaolain, i. 569.
Riess, village, Wick, ii. 421.
Riff, promontory, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Rigfoot, in Longformacus and Ellim, ii. 212.
Rigg, bay, Sorbie, ii. 473, 474.
Rigg, village, Graitney, i. 517.
Riggend, village, New Monkland, ii. 421.
Righouse, mansion, Dreghorn, i. 291.
Ring, intrenchment, Kirkurd, ii. 128.
Ringan Head, farm, Prestonpans, ii. 394.
Ringan's, St., Cave, in Glasserton, i. 499.
Ringans-Dean, in Bowden, i. 150.
Ringly Hall, fortification, Maxton, ii. 239.
Rings, The, in Hounam, i. 548.
Ringsdale Castle, Stonehouse, ii. 500.
Rink, in Jedburgh, i. 588.
Rinloan, in Glengairn, i. 508.
Rinmure, lands, Kinnell, ii. 85.
Rispond, harbour, Durness, i. 343.
Rissa, isle, Orkney, ii. 421.
Ristol, isle, Lochbroom, in Ross and Cro-
marty, ii. 421 — ii. 193.
Roadside, village, St. Cyrus, ii. 421.
Roag, Loch, Uig, Ross and Cromartv, ii.
573.
Roan, isle, Tongue, Sutherland, ii. 421.
Roan, Loch, Crossmichael, i. 242.
Robertland, castle, Stewarton, ii. 488.
Roberton, parish, Roxburgh and Selkirk,
ii. 421.
Roberton, village, Wiston and Roberton,
ii. 421.
Robertslin, in Hobkirk, i. 543.
Robgill Tower, Dornock, i. 287-
Robin's Height, in Dramblade, i. 292.
Robroyston, loch, Cadder, i. 164.
Robroyston Moss, Lanarkshire, i. 489.
Rochall Mount, Lochmaben, ii. 199.
Rochsilloch, lands, Old Monkland, i. 321.
Rochsoles, mansion, New Monkland, ii. 268.
Rockfield, village, Tarbat, ii. 422.
Rockhall, seat, Mouswald, ii. 285.
Rockhill, house, Glenorchy, i. 509.
Rockville, house, North Berwick, i. 123.
Rodil, in Harris-, Inverness, i. 536.
Roduey's Cross, Dyke and Moy, i. 347-
Roe, Little and Muckle, Shetland, ii. 422.
Roe, North, Northmavine, ii. 324.
Rogart, parish, Sutherland, ii. 423.
Rollox, St., Glasgow, i. 487, 489.
Romach, loch, Rafford, ii. 399.
Romanno, mansion, Newlands, ii. 311.
Rome, OH, in Dundonald, i. 320.
Romua Stacks, Northmavine, Shetland, ii.
323.
Ron, isle, Renfrew, ii. 413.
Rona, hill, Northmavine, Shetland, ii. 323,
324.
Rona, isle, Skye, Inverness, ii. 424.
Ronaldshay, North, island, Orkney, ii. 424.
Ronaldshay, South, parish, Orkney, ii. 424.
Ronaldson's Tower, Kilninver and Kilmel-
ford, ii. 57.
Ronan's Voe, Northmavine, ii. 323.
INDEX,
Ronat, isle, North Uist, Inverness, ii. 425,
574.
Ronheads, fishing-station, Peterhead, ii.369.
Rood Church, in Foveran, i. 453.
Roome, bay, Crail, i. 225.
Rora, Longside, ii. 213.
Rorie, river, Rosskeen, ii. 431.
Roros, Glenlyon, Weem, ii. 595.
Roscobie, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Rosebank, house, Wick, ii. 611.
Rosebank, mansion, Lasswade, ii. 429.
Rosebank, village, Dalserf, ii. 425.
Rosebery, barony, Temple, ii. 534.
Rosehall, in Criecli, Sutherland, i. 234.
Rosehall, Kincardine, ii. 69.
Rosehall, in Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Rosehaugh, seat, Avoch, i. 83.
Roseheartt, burgh, Aberdeen, ii. 425 — ii.
375.
Roseislehaugh, seat, Duffus, ii. 426.
Roseisles, hamlets, Duffus, ii. 426.
Rosemarkie, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
426— i. 450.
Rosemount, mansion, Symington, ii. 525.
Roseneath, parish, Dumbarton, ii. 426.
Roseness, headland, Holm and Paplay, i.
544.
Rosetta, mansion, Peebles, ii. 349.
Rosewell, village, Lasswade, ii. 428, 429.
Roslin, burgh, Edinburgh, ii. 428.
Ross, in Hamilton, i. 533, 534.
Ross, district, including Fife, i. 427.
Ross, district, Kilfinichen and Kilviceuen,
ii. 32.
Ross, fishing-village, Mordington, ii. 429 —
ii. 278.
Ross, isle, Mull district, Argyll, ii. 292.
Ross, lands, Kirkmichael, ii. 1 17.
Ross, village, Comrie, ii. 430.
Ross, Easter, district, Ross and Cromarty,
ii. 430.
Ross, Little, isle, Borgue, Kirkcudbright,
ii. 430— ii. 101.
ROSS and CROMARTY, ii. 430.
Ross-Dhu, Luss, ii. 222, 223.
Rossend Castle, in Burntisland, i. 162.
Rossie, house, Craig, i. 222.
Rossie Loch, Collessie, i. 212.
Rossie, mansion, Forgandenny, i. 443.
Rossie, or Inch-Brayock, isle, Forfar, ii.
431.
Rossie and Inchture, Perth. See IncUure.
Rossie Law, station, Dunning, i. 335.
Rossie Priory, seat, Longforgan, ii. 211.
Rosskeen, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
431— i. 39.
Ross Priory, seat, Kilmaronock, ii. 44.
Rossy, moor, Kinnell, ii. 85.
Rosyth, castle, Inverkeithing, i. 573.
Rothes, Markinch, ii. 231, 232.
Rothes, parish, Banff and Elgin, ii. 431.
ROTHESAY, burgh, Bute, ii. 432.
Rothie House, in Fyvie, i. 457.
Rothiemay, parish, Banff, ii. 434.
Rothiemurchus, district, Inverness, ii. 435.
Rothmaise, hill, Rayne, ii. 408.
Rothney, seat, Insch, i. 563.
Rotmel, in Dunkeld, i. 329, 330.
Rottearn, hamlet, Dunblane, ii. 436— i. 66.
Rottenburn, Blantyrc, i. 136.
Roucan, village, Torthorwald, ii. 436.
Rough bank, Beith, i. 114.
Rough Hill, East Kilbride, ii. 23.
638
Roughside, Beith, i. 1 13.
Rousay and Eagleshay, parish, Orkney, ii.
436.
Rousholmhead, Stronsay, ii. 519.
Routing-Bridge, Kirkpatrick-Irongray, ii.
124.
Row, parish, Dumbarton, ii. 437.
Rowallan, Kilmarnock, ii. 43, 44.
Rowchester, house, Greenlaw, i. 521.
Roxrurgh, parish, Roxburghshire, ii. 439
-ii. 7.
Roxburgh, late quoad sacra parish, Edin-
burgh, i. 386.
ROXBURGHSHIRE, ii. 440.
Royal Mill, Kippen, ii. 94.
Royton, house, Cramond, i. 227-
Ruail, river, Kilmodan, ii. 47.
Ruardinnan, ferry, Luss, ii. 222.
Rubberslaw, hill, Hobkirk, i. 543.
Ruchill, stream, Comrie, i. 215.
Rudewell, spring, Stenton, ii. 486.
Ruggy, hill, Halkirk, i. 531.
Rule, river, Bedrule, i. 112, 113 ; Hobkirk,
543.
Rullion-Green, Gleneross, i. 504.
Rum, island, Small Isles, Argyll, ii. 440.
Rumbleton, and Rumbleton-Law, in Gor-
don, i. 513.
Rumbling Bridge, Muckart, ii. 289.
Rumford, village, Muiravonside, ii. 441.
Ru-na-Braddan, Inverness-shire, i. 39.
Runahaorine, headland, Killean and Kil-
chenzie, ii. 34.
Runrory, Blair-Atholl, i. 132.
Rusco, house, Auwoth, Kirkcudbright, i. 54.
Ruskholm, isle, Stronsay, Orkney, ii. 441.
Ruskie, hamlet, Port of Monteith, ii. 441.
Ruskie, loch, Port of Monteith, ii. 387.
Rutherford, hamlet, Maxton, ii. 441 — ii.
239.
Rutherford, lands, Linton, ii. 185.
RUTHERGLEN, burgh, Lanark, ii. 441.
Ruthrie, district, Aberlour, Banff, i. 27, 28.
Ruthven, parish, Forfar, ii. 443.
Ruthven, river, Auchterarder, i. 77-
Ruthven Castle, Tibbermore, ii. 539.
Ruthvenfield, Tibbermore, ii. 444, 540.
Ruthwell, parish, Dumfries, ii. 444.
Rutton, loch, Lochrutton, ii. 199.
Ryan, Loch, Wigtonshire, i. 556, ii. 508.
Rye, river, Dairy, i. 266, 267.
Rysay, Little, isle, Walls and Sandness, ii.
589.
Ryval, ancient name of Ruthwell, ii. 444.
Sabhal-mhoir, mountain, Eddraehillis, i. 360.
Saddel and Skipness, parish, Argyll, ii.
445.
Saddleyoke, hill, Moffat, ii. 260.
Sagay, isle, Harris, Inverness, ii. 446.
St. Boswell's. See Boswell's, St. And all
places liaving a similar distinguishing prefix
will be found under the proper name.
Saintear, lake, Westray, ii. 600.
Salachie, loch, Golspie, i. 511.
Salen, Lismore and Appin, ii. 189.
Salen, district, Mull, Argyll, ii. 446.
Salenrua, bay, Ardchattan, ii. 288.
Salin, creek, Ardnamurchan, Argyll, i. 64.
Saline, parish, Fife, ii. 446.
Salineside, lands, Ashkirk, i. 72.
Salisbury Crags, hill, Edinburgh, i. 372, 375.
Sallysburgh, village, Bertram-Shotts, ii.
447— i. 119.
Saloehy, in Buchanan, i. 157.
Saltburn, village, Rosskeen, ii. 447.
Saltcoats, mansion, Dirleton, i. 283.
SALTCOATS, town, Ayr.ii. 447-i. 68.
Salthouse Head, Peterhead, ii. 370.
Salt-Preston, Prestonpaus, ii. 394.
Salton, parish, Haddington, ii. 447.
Salton, East, village, Salton, ii. 448.
Salton, West, village, Salton parish, ii. 449.
Salt-Stones, Boindie, i. 138.
Salvator's College. See Andrew's, St.
Samphrey, isle, Mid and South Yell, Shet-
land, ii. 449.
Samuelston, village, Gladsmuir, ii. 449 — i.
476.
Sand, isle, Small Isles, Argyll, ii. 449.
Sanda, isle, Cantyre, Argyll, ii.449, 476, 477-
Sanda, isle, Orkney, ii. 449 — ii. 424.
Sandbed, farm, Kirkmahoe,ii. 113.
Sand End, in Cruden, i. 243.
Sandend, village, Fordyce, ii. 449.
Sanderay, isle, Inverness. See Sandra.
Sandford, village, Stonehouse, ii. 450, 500.
Sandhead, village, Stoneykirk, ii. 450.
Sandhouse, in Sandsting and Aithsting, ii.
451.
Sand Inch, isle, Renfrew, ii. 413.
Sandlaw, estate, in Alvah, Banff, i. 41.
Sand loch, Dumfries, i. 307.
Sand Loch, in Slains and Forvie, ii. 468.
Sand Lodge, Dunrossness, Shetland, ii. 452,
453.
Sandness and Walls. See Walls and
Sandness.
Sandra, or Sanderay, isle, Barra, Inver-
ness, ii. 450.
Sands, lands, Tulliallan, ii. 562.
Sands, The, Dumfries, i. 306.
Sandside Bay, Reay parish, ii. 409.
Sandsound Voe, Sandsting and Aithsting,
ii. 450.
Sandsting and Aithsting, parish, Shetland,
ii. 450.
Sandvoe, harbour, Sandsting and Aithsting,
ii. 450.
Sandwick, bay, Unst, ii. 578.
Sandwick, isle, Yell, Shetland, ii. 452.
Sandwick, parish, Orkney, ii. 451.
Sandwick, old parish, Kirkcudbright, i. 142.
Sandwick, West, residence, Shetland, ii. 463.
Sandwick and Cunningsburgh, district^,
Shetland, ii. 452.
Sandyford, stream, Muiravonside, ii. 290.
Sandy Haven, Aberdeenshire, i. 22.
Sandyhills, village, near Glasgow, ii. 453.
Sandy know, farm, Smailholm, ii. 471.
Sannox, Kilbride, ii. 22.
SANQUHAR, burgh, Dumfries, ii. 453.
Sanquhar House, Forres, i. 445.
Sarclet, village, Wick, ii. 454.
Sark, stream, Graitney, i. 516, 517.
Sarkfoot, Graitney, i. 516.
Saturness, headland, Kirkbean, ii. 95.
Sauchenford, St. Ninian's, ii. 321.
Sauchenside, Edinburghshire, i. 197-
Saucher, hamlet, Collace, ii. 454.
Sauchie, Stirlingshire, i. 106 ; ii. 319, 321,
322.
Sauchie, streamlet, Kinglassic, ii. 77-
INDEX.
Sauchiebog, village, Cambuslang, ii. 454.
Sauchieburn, St. Ninian's, ii. 319.
Saucbie Tower, Clackmannan, i. 190.
Sauchur Point, headland, i. 401.
Sauchy, coalfield, in Alloa, Clackmannan, i.
38.
Saugbton, lands, Corstorphine, i. 217, 218.
Saughton, New, Cramond, i. 227.
Sanlseat, abbey, Inch, i. 555.
Savock, in New Deer, i. 275.
Saxa-Vord, in Unst, Shetland, ii. 579.
Sayrs Law, hill, Longformacus and Ellim,
ii. 212.
Scallop Cave, Island of Staffa, ii. 483.
Scalloway, village, Shetland, ii. 454, 541.
Scalpa, isle, Skye, Inverness, ii. 455.
Scalpa, village, Pomona, Orkney, ii. 455.
Scalpa Flow, bay, Orkney, ii, 455.
Scalpay, island, Harris, Inverness, ii. 455.
Scalpsie, bay, Rothesay, ii. 434.
Scamadale, loch, Kilniuver and Kilmelford,
ii. 57.
Scar, in Loch Ryan, Wigton, ii. 508.
Scaraben, mountain, Latheron, ii. 154.
Scarba, island, Argyll, ii. 455.
Scarfskerry, village, Dunnet, i. 333.
Scarlaw, castle, Cranshaws, i. 227.
Scarnose, headland, Cullen, i. 245.
Scarp, isle, Harris, Inverness, ii. 455.
Searr, stream, Penpont, ii. 35b'.
Scarry hills, Caithness, i. 166.
Scarsough, mountain, Inverness, i. 579.
Scarvy, isle, Harris, Inverness, ii. 455.
Sceair Caristina, rock, Kdninian and Kil-
more, ii. 55.
Sceir-Mhor, in Tiree, ii. 544.
Schaw Pai'k, Clackmannan, i. 1 99.
Schell, hill, Morebattle and Mow, ii. 278.
Sehiehallion, or Sith-Chaillinn, Perthshire,
ii. 365— i. 448.
Schivas, mansion, Tarves, ii. 533.
School hill, Aberdeen, i. 10, 18.
Scirrival, Barra, i. 107.
Scobbach House, Turriff, ii. 567.
Scoltie, hill, Strachan, ii. 504.
Scone, parish, Perth, ii. 455.
Scone-Lethendy, lands, Perth, ii. 303.
Scoonie, parish, Fife, ii. 457.
Scoonie-Burn, hamlet, Scoonie parish, ii.
458.
Scotland-Well, village, Portmoak, ii. 458.
Scotsburn, mansion, Logie-Easter, ii. 208.
Scotscraig, lands, Ferryport-on-Craig, i.
422, 423.
Scotstown, in Renfrew parish, ii. 413, 414.
Scotstown, estate, Auchterhouse, i. 80.
Scotstown, seat, Peeblesshire, ii. 351.
Scotstown Craig, St. Fergus, i. 421.
Scoulag, bay, Kingarth, ii. 74.
Scour-Choinich, mountain, Argyll, i. 65.
Scourie, village, Eddrachillis, ii. 458 — i.
300, 361.
Scour-na-lapich, mountain, Kilmoraek, ii. 49.
Scousburgh, loch, Dunrossness, i. 338.
Scouthel, in Watten, ii. 594.
Scow, Kyle of, Sutherland, i. 360, 301.
Serabster Roads, Thurso, ii. 538.
Screll, hill, Rerwick, ii. 410.
Scribhisbheinn, mountain, Durness, i. 342.
Scriden, loch, Isle of Mull, ii. 292.
Scrogiehill, hamlet, Methven, ii. 458.
Scroulach, mountain, Strathdon, ii. 512.
Sculomy, creek, Tongue, ii. 549.
639
Scur-Dhoniel, mountain, Argyll, i. 65.
Scurr Hill, Balmerino, Fife, i. 98.
Scurt, in Harris, i. 536.
Scur-uran, in Glenshiel, i. 510.
Scuttrie, in Leocbel and Cushnie, ii. 107-
Sea-Bank, estate, Stevenston, ii. 487.
Sea-Cliffe House, Whitekirk, ii. 605.
Seafields, lands, New Spynie, ii. 481.
Seafield Church, Rathven, ii. 385.
Seaforth, loch, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Seaforth Lodge, Stornoway parish, Lewis,
ii. 503.
Sea-Greens, in St. Cyrus, i. 259.
Seal Cave, in Stornoway parish, Lewis, ii.
503.
Seale's Bridge, Perthshire, i. 353.
Sea Mab, eminence, Muckart, ii. 288.
Seapark, mansion, Kinloss, ii. 83.
Seaside-Place, in Aberdour, Fife, i. 24.
Seaton, seat, St. Vigean's, ii. 587.
Seaton, Kirktown of, now Old Aberdeen, i. 7-
Seaton Hill, in Gladsmuir, i. 476.
Seaton House, Tranent, ii. 390.
Sea-town, Banff, i. 104.
Sea-town, Cullen, i. 244, 245.
Seatown of Delnies, hamlet, Nairn, ii. 459.
Seedhill, Paisley, ii. 343.
Seggie, Leuchars, ii. 174.
Seggiecrook, in Grange, i. 518.
Seggieden House, Kinfauns, ii. 73.
Seil, island, Kilbrandon, Argyll, ii. 459 —
ii. 19.
Seirach, loch, Reay, ii. 409.
Selivoe, harbour, Sandsting and Aithsting,
ii. 450.
SELKIRK, burgh, Roxburgh and Selkirk,
ii. 459.
SELKIRKSHIRE, ii. 460.
Seresort, loch, Rum island, ii. 441.
Serf, St., island, Kinross, ii. 90, 91.
Serf's, St., ancient parish, Redgorton, ii. 410.
Servanus, Portmoak, ii. 384.
Seton Tower, in Fyvie, i. 457-
Seutter, hamlet, Fair, i. 411.
Shadir, in Barvas, i. 10.9.
Shaggy, river, Crieff, i. 235.
Shaint, isles, Lochs parish, Ross and Cro-
marty, ii. 461.
Shambelly, lands, Newabbey, ii. 304.
Shandon, hill, Row parish, ii. 438.
Shandwick, mansion, Logie Easter, ii. 208.
Shandwick, village, Nigg parish, ii. 461 —
ii. 319.
Shank Point, Borthwiek, i. 145.
Shankston, loch, Kirkmichael, ii. 115.
Shantron, hill, Dumbartonshire, i. 304.
Shanwell, estate, Orwell, ii. 334.
Shauwilly Point, in Little Cumbray, i. 251.
Shapinshay, isle, Orkney, ii. 461.
Shaw, The, Ardclach, Nairn, i. 63.
Shawfield, near Glasgow, i. 481, ii. 442.
Shawhead, village, Kirkpatrick-Irongray,
ii. 462— ii. 125.
Shaw Hill, mansion, Riccarton, ii. 421.
Shaw Park House, in Alloa, Clackmannan,
i. 38.
Shaws, lake, Ashkirk, i. 72.
Shaw's Water, Greenock, i. 522.
Sheader, farm, Snizort, Skye, ii. 473.
Shean, in Ardchattau, i. 61, 62.
Sheardale, near Dollar, i. 283.
Shebster, in Reay parish, ii. 409.
Sheddocksley, house, Newhills, ii. 310.
Shedog, in Kilmorie, ii. 52.
Sheelngreen, in Culsamond, i. 273.
Sheep, isle, Southend, Argyll, ii. 462.
Sheep Craig, in Fair, Shetland, i. 411.
Sheepford, near Glasgow, i. 488.
Sheilhouse, rivulet, Morton, ii. 282.
Shelky-Skerry, rocks, North Ronaldshay,
Orkney, ii. 424.
Shell, Inch, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Shelliva, loch, South Uist, ii. 576.
Shelter-stone, Kirkmichael, ii. 116.
Shenwell, farm, Cabrach, i. 163.
Sheomar-na-Staing, in Fortingal, i. 449.
Sheriff-Hall, near Dalkeith, i. 262.
Sheriffhall-Engine, hamlet, Newton, ii.
462.
Sheriff Muir, near Dunblane, i. 314.
Sheriff's Knowe, in Yarrow, ii. 619.
Sheriffsmuir, moor, Stobo, ii. 499.
Sherrington, village, Dumfries, i. 164.
Sheshernieh, loch, Kirkmichael, ii. 118.
SHETLAND Islands, ii. 462.
Shettleston, district, near Glasgow, ii. 464.
Shevoek, rivulet, Premnay, ii. 392.
Shewalton, village, Dundonald, ii. 464 — i.
320.
Shiach, burn, Dun-is, i. 344.
Shian, residence, Kenmore, ii. 12, 13.
Shiehallion, in Perthshire. See Sehiehallion.
Shiel, loch and river, Ardnamurchan, Ar-
gyll, i. 65, 66.
Shiel, river and loch, Glenshiel, Ross and
Cromarty, i. 510.
Shield, lands, Ochiltree, ii. 327.
Shieldag, district, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
464— i. 54, 55.
Shieldhill, lands, Libberton, ii. 177-
Shieldhill, village, Kinneff, ii. 84.
Shields, lands, Govan, i. 514.
Shields, lands, St. Quivox, ii. 398.
Shielhill, Polmont, ii. 379.
Shielhill, seat, Kirriemuir, ii. 132.
Shielhouse, in Glenshiel, i. 510.
Shiellsburn, Coldingham, i. 209.
Shielswood, loch, Ashkirk, i. 72.
Shin, Loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Shin, river, Lairg, ii. 140.
Shineach, loch, Kilmichael-Glassary, ii. 47.
Shinnel, river, Tynron, ii. 570.
Shira, stream, Inverary, i. 506.
Shirgarton, hamlet, K'ppen, ii. 465.
Shirva, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Shirva, hamlet, in Fair, i. 411.
Shisken, vale, Kilmorie, ii. 52.
Shoehie, river, Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Shona, isle, Ardnamurchan, Inverness, ii.
405— i. 64.
Shonaveg, isle, Ardnamurchan, Inverness,
ii. 405.
Shotts, Lanark. See Bertram-Shotts.
Shuna, isle, Kilbrandon, Argyll, ii. 405.
Shuna, sound, Lismore and Appin, ii. 189.
Shuna Castle, Lismore and Appin, ii. 190.
Shurery, loch, Reay, ii. 409.
Si'am-na-Rapaich, mountain, Morvern, ii.
283.
Sibbaldbie, Dumfries. See Applegarth and
Sibbaldbie, ii. 405.
Sidlaw Hills, i. 440, ii. 305.
Sight Hill, Muiravonside, ii. 290.
Sibbister, district, Lady parish, Orkney, ii.
138.
Sillyearn, hill, Grange, i. 518.
INDEX.
Silverbanks, village, Cambuslang, ii. 465.
Silver-Craigs House, Glasgow, i. 481, 484.
Silver Rock, hill, Golspie, i. 511.
Silver Wells, in Walston, ii. 590.
Simprim, Berwick. See Siciiiton.
Sinclair, castle, Wick, Caithness, ii. 610.
Sinclair, estate, Dysart, i. 200.
Sinclair bay, Caithness, i. 166.
Sinclairton, Fife. See ClaiHown, St., and
Patlihead.
Sinnahard, in Towie, ii. 558.
Sir Robert's Prap, Newburgh, ii. 309.
Sisters' Land, in Aberdour, Fife, i. 24.
Sithain-a-Charra, Kincardine, ii. 68.
Six Ploughs, Methlick, ii. 249.
Ska, islet, in Unst, Shetland, ii. 578.
Skae, Loch, Balmaelellan, i. 95.
Skateraw, hamlet, Innerwick, ii. 465 — i.
562, 563.
Skea, hills, Westray, ii. 600.
Skeen, loch, Moffat, ii. 261.
Skeilay, isle, Harris, Inverness, ii. 465.
Skelberry, loch, Dunrossness, i. 338.
Skelbo, ruins, Sutherland, i. 287.
Skeld, voes, Sandsting and Aithsting, ii. 450.
Skeldaquoy, headland, Holm and Paplay, i.
544.
Skeldon, lands, Dalrymple, i. 268, 269.
Skellater, house, Strathdon, ii. 513.
Skelmurly Castle, Largs, ii. 152.
Skene, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 465.
Skeoch, St., in Craig, i. 222.
Skeotisway, isle, Harris, Inverness, ii. 466.
Skerray, Tongue, ii. 548, 550.
Skerrington, lands, Ricearton, ii. 420.
Skerries, isles, Shetland, ii. 466.
Skerroch, loch, Girthon, i. 473.
Skerry, Muclcle, Skerries, Shetland, ii. 466.
Skerry of Vasa, Shapinshay, Orkney, ii. 461.
Skeiraw, village, Fetteresso, ii. 466— i. 426.
Skiack, loch, Little Dunkeld, i. 331.
Skiaek, river, Kiltearn, ii. 64.
Skiakid, village, Tongue, ii. 466.
Skibo, castle, Sutherland, i. 286.
Skid-N'uir, source of the Forth, Perth, i.25.
Skilmoney, hill, Methlick, ii. 250.
Skiltiemuir, hamlet, Coekpen, ii. 466.
Skimmer Hill, Salton, ii. 448.
Skinnet, old parish, Caithness, i. 530, 531.
Skip.ness, county of Argyll. See Saddell.
Skiport, loch, South Uist, ii. 5/6.
Skirdustan, parish, Banff, i. 27.
Skirling, parish, Peebles, ii. 466.
Skirsa-head, Canisbay, i. 175.
Skree], hill, Kelton, ii. 9.
Skye, Isle of, Inverness, ii. 467-
Slack, burn, Kelton, ii. 9.
Slain Men's Lee, Selkirk parish, ii. 459.
Slai.ns and Forvie, parish, Aberdeen, ii.
468.
Slains Castle, Cruden, i. 243, 244.
Slam, loch, Tongue, ii. 548.
Si.amaxnan, parish, Stirling, ii. 469.
Slapan, Loch, in Strath, ii. 509.
Slateford, village, Colinton,ii. 470 — i.211.
379.
Slateford, village, Edzcll, ii. 470.
Sleat or Slate, parish, Skye, ii. 470.
Sledmuir, hamlet, Kirriemuir, ii. 471.
Sleitill, loch, Reay, ii. 409.
Sliabhach, mountain, Gairloch, i. 458.
Sliabh-Ghaoil, hill, Soutli Kuapdalc, ii. 134.
Sliach, in Drumbladf, i. 292.
640
Sligichan, Loch, Portree, ii. 389.
Slioch, mountain, Gairloch, i. 458.
Slipperfield, Lintou, ii. 185.
Slitrig, river, Cavers, i. 1 93 ; Hawick, 538,
539.
Sloe-an-leim, in Gigha and Cara, i. 471 .
Slohabert, hamlet, Kirkinner, ii. 471.
Slough-Ends, range, Cumbray, i. 251.
Sloy, loch, Arrochar, i. 304.
Sluggan, in Duthil, Elgin, i. 345.
Sluie, in Edinkillie, i, 392.
Smaddy, loch, Crossmichael, i. 242.
Smailholm, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 471.
Small Glen, pass, Monzie, ii. 276.
Smallholm, hamlet, Lochraaben, ii. 471 •
Small Isles, bay, Jura, i. 591.
Small Isles, parish, Argyll and Inverness,
ii. 471.
Small Waters, lochs, Unst, ii. 578.
Smeaton House, Prestonkirk, ii. 393.
Smithston House, Tarbolton, ii. 530.
Smithtown of Culloden, hamlet, Inverness,
ii. 472.
Smithyhaugh, village, Auchterarder, ii. 472.
Smo, cavern, Durness, i. 343.
Smyllum, mansion, Lanark, ii. 143.
Snab, lands, Borrowstounness, i. 144.
Snaid, in Glencairn, i. 546.
Snaigow House, in Caputh, i. 177-
Snar, stream, Crawfordjohn, i. 231.
Snawburgh, in Fetlar and North Yell, i. 424.
Snelsetter, house, Walls aud Sandness, ii.590.
Snipe, loch, Dalrymple, i. 268.
Snizort, parish, Skye,ii. 472.
Snoassumul, isle, Barra, Inverness, ii. 473.
Snow Tower, Kildrummy, ii. 31.
Snusgar, castle, Sandwick, ii. 452.
Soat, isle, Assynt, Sutherland, ii. 473.
Soay, island, Bracadale, Skye,ii.473 — i. 151.
Soay, isle, Tiree and Coll, ii. 544.
Soccach, mountain, Kintail, ii. 92.
Soccoch, Hills, in Towie, ii. 557.
Society, bay, in Abercorn, Linlithgow, i. 4.
Softlaw, lands, Kelso, ii. 239.
Soleburn, stream, Leswalt, ii. 172.
Solway Frith, Dumfries-shire, i. 516.
Somerside, in L:berton, Edinburgh, i. 473.
Sonachan House, Kilchrenan aud Dalavich,
ii. 27.
Soreie, parish, Wigton, ii. 473.
Sordal, hill, Bower, i. 150.
Soriby, bay, Kilninian, ii. 577-
Sorn, parish, Ayr, ii. 474.
Sornhill, village, Ricearton, ii. 475.
Soules Cross, Kilmarnock, ii. 44.
Soulseat, abbey, Inch, i. 555.
Soul-Skerry, isle, Stromness, Orkney, ii.
475.
Sound, ancient parish, Tingwall, ii. 541.
Souters, North and South, Ross and Cro-
marty, i. 238.
Souterhouse, in Old Monkland, ii. 269.
South Bridgend. See Eridijend, South. And
all places luiming a similar distinyuhlih>:i
prefix will be found under the proper name.
Southanan, sands, West Kilbride, ii. 24.
Southbarr, estate, Inchinnan, i. 558.
South-Bay, North Ronaldshay, Orkney, ii.
424.
South-Burn, Lauder, ii. 156.
Southdean, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 475.
Southend, parish, Argyll, ii. 476.
Southfield, house, Gladsmuir, i. 476.
Southfield, house, Liberton, ii. 178.
Southfield, residence, Auchtermuchty, i. 81.
Southfield, seat, Mearns, ii. 242.
Southhall, mansion, Inverehaolain, i. 569.
South-Head, headland, Peterhead, ii. 370.
Southmuir, village, Kirriemuir, ii. 478.
South Parish. See Aberdeen.
Southwick, Kirkcudbright. See Colvend
and Southwick.
Soutra, Haddington. See Fala and Soutra.
Soutra hill, in Channelkirk, i. 196.
Soy, loch, Portsoy, ii. 391.
Spalander, loch, Kirkmichael, ii. 115.
Spalander, stream, Kirkmichael, ii. 115.
Spa Well, Woolman hill, Aberdeen, i. 12.
Spean, river, Kilmoniraig, ii. 48.
Speddoch, in Holywood, i. 547.
Spedlin's Tower, Lochmaben, ii. 199.
Speedy Hill, in Auehtergaven, i. 79.
Spelve, loch, Torosay, ii. 551.
Spey, river, Aberlour, i. 27, 28; Elgin-
shire, 400 ; Fochabers, 434 ; Inveraven,
567 > Kingussie, ii. 81.
Speymouth, parish, Elgin, ii. 478.
Spinningdale, in Criech, i. 234.
Spital, hamlet, Killieman, ii. 36.
Spittal, farm-house, Penieuick, ii. 352.
Spittal, hill, Edinburghshire, i. 391.
Spittal, hill, Halkirk, i. 531 .
Spittalfield, village, Caputh, ii. 479.
Spittal Hill, in Cambuslang, i. 170.
Spittal House, Hutton, i. 553.
Spott, parish, Haddington, ii. 479.
Spottes, seat, Urr, ii. 585.
Spottiswoode, lands, Westruther, ii. 602—
i. 512.
Springfield, in Dalmeny, i. 266.
Springfield, estate, Penieuick, ii. 353.
Springfield, hill, Dunscore, i. 339.
Springfield, house, Cupar, i. 256.
Springfield, seat, St. Vigean's, ii. 587.
Springfield, village, Cupar, Fife, ii. 480.
Springfield, village,Graitney,ii.480 — i. 517.
Springfield House, Lasswade, ii. 153, 154.
Spring-Garden, district, Aberdeen, ii. 480.
Spring-Hill, seat, Douglas, i. 288.
Springhill, mansion, Newhills, ii. 310.
Springholji, village, Urr, ii. 480.
Springkell, mansion, Kirkpatrick-Fleming,
ii. 124.
Springvale, near Glasgow, i. 489.
Springwood, mansion, Kelso, ii. 8.
Sprouston, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 480.
Spurness, headland, Sanda, Orkney, ii. 449.
Spynie, loch, Drainie, i. 290.
Spynie, New, parish, Elgin, ii. 481.
Squaretown, hamlet, Newton, Edinburgh,
ii. 482.
Sruthan-nan-Ceann, stream, Argyll, ii. 544.
Stac, Loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Stac, mountain, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Stacks of Duncansbay, Caithness, i.315.
Stadaig, promontory, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Staffa, island, Argyll, ii. 482.
Stags, rocks, Durness, i. 343.
Staik, hill, Kilbirnie, ii. 18.
Stair, parish, Ayr, ii. 483.
Stair-Bridge, in Tarbolton, Ayr, ii. 531.
Stake, hill, Largs, ii. 151.
Standing-Stones, Glenterra, Inch, i. 556.
STANE,village,Cambusnethan, ii. 484— i. 17 1.
Stanhope-Mills, village, Corstorphine, i. 218.
Stanley, burn, Ardrossan, Ayr, i. 68.
INDEX.
Stanley, district and village, Perth, ii. 484
— i. 78, 79.
Stanley Castle, Paisley, ii. 344.
Stanley Know, in Clunie, i. 204.
Stannachy Ford, Brechin, i. 152.
Stanrig, in Muiravonside, ii. 290.
Stanstill, in Bower, i. 150.
Staplegorton, old parish, Dumfries, i. 530.
Stapleton, in Dornock, i. 287.
Starly burn, Burntisland, i. 161.
Starr, village, Fife, ii. 485.
Starryhaugh, in Enzie, i. 403.
Start, headland, Orkney, ii. 138.
Starthope Hill, Wande'll, ii. 593.
Staxigo, village, Wick, ii. 485.
Steeds Stalls, in Clunie, i. 203.
Stein, hamlet, Duirinish, ii. 485, 594.
Steinscholl, district, Skye, ii. 485.
Stempster, lake, Latheron, ii. 154.
Stempster House, in Bower, i. 150.
Stenhouse, lands, Tynron, ii. 570.
Stenhouse Muir, village, Stirling, ii. 485.
Stenness, county of Orkney. See Firth.
Stenness, isle, Northmavine, Shetland, ii. 486.
Stennies, fishery station, Northmavine, ii.
324.
Stennis, stream, Westerkirk, ii. 598.
Stenton, parish, Haddington, ii. 486.
Stepping-Stones, Glenterra, i. 556.
Stevenson, stream, Newlands, ii. 311.
Stevenston, seat, Haddington, i. 528.
Stevenston, town, Ayr, ii. 486.
Stewartfield, house, Jedburgh, i. 587, 588.
Stewarton, parish, Ayr, ii. 487.
Stew arton and Wishawton, village, Lanark,
ii. 489.
Stewartown, village, Kirkcolm, ii. 99.
Stewarts-Raiss, tower, Paisley, ii. 344.
Sticks, district, Weem, ii. 595.
Stinehar, river, Barr, i. 106.
Stirches, house, Wilton, ii. 615.
Stircoke, vale, Wick, ii. 610, 611.
Stirkrigg, Bedrule, i. 113.
STIRLING, burgh, Stirlingshire ; history,
ii, 489 ; notice of the Castle, 491 ; de-
scription of the town, 492 ; trade and
manufactures, 492 ; municipal affairs,
493 ; parish, 493 ; ecclesiastical affairs,
schools, &c.j 494. See also i. 365.
Stirliughill, Peterhead, ii. 370.
STIRLINGSHIRE, ii. 495.
Stirling's Tower, Edzell, i. 395.
Stitchell and Hume, parish, Roxburgh and
Berwick, ii. 497.
Stob-an-Daimh, mountain, Glenorchy, i. 5C9.
Stobbsmills, village, Borthwick and Temple,
ii. 498, 535.
Stobcross, lands, near Glasgow, i. 44.
Stobhall, in Cargill, i. 179, 180.
Stobhill, village, Newbattle, ii. 498.
Stobhill-Engine, hamlet, Cockpen, ii. 498.
Stobo, parish Peebles, ii. 498.
Stobs, in Cavers, i. 193, 194.
Stocket, forest, Aberdeenshire, i. 7, 8.
Stockiemuir, Drymen, i. 296.
Stoer or Store, district, Sutherland, ii. 499.
Stonebyres, seat, Lesmahago, ii. 171.
Stonebyres, waterfall, Lanark, ii. 143.
Stone Castle, Irvine, i. 584.
Stonefield, bay, Muckairn, ii. 288.
Stonefield, village, Blantyre, ii. 499.
STONEHAVEN, burgh, Kincardine, ii. 499.
Stonehill, in Carmichael, i. 181.
Vol. I.— 641
Stone-house, Castle, Kirkpatrick - Fleming,
i. 23.
Storehouse, parish, Lanark, ii. 500.
Stonelaw, Rutherglen, ii. 442.
Stone Lude, in Bower, i. 150.
Stone Mill, St. Fergus, i. 422.
Stone of Odin, Shapinshay, Orkney, ii. 462.
Stone of the Burying-ground, Nigg, ii. 319.
Stoneridge, house, Eccles, i. 355.
Stoneyhill, hamlet, Inveresk, ii. 501— ii.
271.
Stoneyhill House, in Inveresk, i. 570.
Stoneykirk, parish, Wigton, ii. 501.
Stoneypath, Whittingham, ii. 608.
Stoneywood, mill, Aberdeen, i. 1 3.
Stonypath, lands, Dolphinton, i. 285.
Store, Sutherland. See Stoer.
Stormont, loch, Blairgowrie, i. 135.
Stormont, plain, Perth, i. 177.
Stormontfield, Scone parish, ii. 457.
Stornoway, in Kilcalmonell and Kilberry, ii.
25.
STORNOWAY, burgh, island of Lewis, ii.
502.
Storr, mountainous ridge, Skye, ii. 472.
Stotfield, village, Drainie, ii. 503— i. 397,
ii. 215.
Stourholm, isle, Northmavine, Shetland, ii.
503.
Stove, bay, Cross and Burness, i. 240.
Stow, parish, Edinburgh and Selkirk, ii.
503.
Strachan, parish, Kincardine, ii. 504.
Stracathro, seat, Strickathrow, ii. 517.
Strachur and Strachlachi.an, parish, Ar-
gyll, ii. 505— ii. 195.
Strachurmore, house, in Strachur, ii. 505.
Strafontane, district, Abbey St. Bathan's, i.
110.
Strageath, Perthshire, i. 236.
Straiton, parish, Ayr, ii. 506.
Straloch, lands, New Machar, ii. 225, 226.
Straxathro, village, Fetteresso, ii. 507 — i-
426.
Strand, bay, in Fetlar, i. 423, 424.
Stranduff, residence, Kincardine O'Neil, ii.
71.
STRANRAER, burgh, Wigton, ii. 508— i.
556.
Strath, parish, Inverness, ii. 509.
Strath-Aen, Strachan parish, ii. 504.
Strathaird, lands, in Strath, ii. 509.
Strathalladale, vale, Reay, ii. 409.
Strathallan, Perthshire, i. 314.
Strathardle, district, Moulin, ii. 284.
Strathaven, district, Banffshire, i. 105.
STRATH AVEN, town, Lanarkshire, ii. 510
— i. 84.
Strathban, in Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Strath-Beg, Durness, i. 342.
Strathbeg, glen, Lochbroom, ii. 193.
Strathbeg, loch, Aberdeenshire, i. 236, ii.
214.
Strathblane, parish, Stirling, ii. 510 — i.
515.
Strathbogie, Aberdeenshire, i. 22, 165.
Strathbogie Castle, Huntly, i. 551, 552.
Strathbran, district, Little Dunkeld, i. 331.
Strathbrock, ancient parish, Uphall, ii. 580.
Strathbrora, vale, i. 204, ii. 423.
Strathbuxgo, village, Glasgow, ii. 512.
Strathearron, district, Ross and Cromarty,
ii. 430.
Strathceannard, vale, Lochbroom, ii. 192.
Strathclyde, i. 302.
Strathconon, county Ross. See Carnoch.
Strathdearn, Nairnshire, ii. 299.
Strathdighty, in Mains and Strathmartine,
ii. 228.
Strath-Diuard, Durness, i. 342.
Strathbon, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 512.
Strath-Doveran, Banffshire, i. 105.
Strathearn, Perth, i. 453.
Strath-Echaig, in Dunoon and Kilmun, i.
337.
Strath-Endrick, Stirling, i. 296, 297.
Strathendry, seat, Leslie, ii. 170.
Strath-Fenella, in Fordoun, i. 436.
Strathfillan, district, Argyll and Perth,
ii. 514.
Strathfleet, vale, Rogart, ii. 423.
Strathgartney, estate, Perthshire, i. 37.
Strath-Glass, Kiltarlity, ii. 63, 64.
Strathgryfe, vale, Renfrewshire, ii. 415.
Strath-Herric, in Boleskine, i. 139.
Strathkinness, village, St. Andrew's, ii.
514— i. 48.
Strath-Leven, seat, Dumbartonshire, i. 304.
Strathmartine, Forfar. See Mains.
Strathmiglo, parish, Fife, ii. 514.
Strathmore, vale, Durness, i. 342.
Strathmore, vale, Kirriemuir, ii. 130.
Strathnairn, in Daviot and Dunlichty, i.
273.
Strath-na-Sealg, mountains, Lochbroom, ii.
192.
Strathnaver, valley, Farr, i. 418, 419.
Strath-Oikell, Kincardine, ii. 68.
Strathpeffer, in Fodderty, i. 281, 434.
Strathrathy, valley, Farr, i. 418.
Strathrusdale, vale, Rosskeen, ii. 431.
Strath-Swordale, parish, Inverness, ii. 509.
Strath-Tay, Logierait, ii. 210.
Strath y, district, Fai-r, ii. 515.
Strathyre, village, Balquhidder, ii. 515.
Stravanan, bay, Kingarth, ii. 74.
Straven, Loch, Inverchaolain, i. 568.
Stravithy, castle, Dunino, i. 326.
Stream Sound, Bressay, i. 153.
Strelitz, village, Cargill, ii. 515.
Strettum, brae, Lumphanan, ii. 219.
Strichex, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 515.
Strickathrow, parish, Forfar, ii. 516.
String, lake, Kiluinver and Kilmelford, ii.
57.
Striven, Loch, Argyll. See Straven.
Striviling, now Stirling, ii. 489.
Strom, loch, Whiteness, ii. 542.
Stroma, island, Canisbay, ii. 517.
Stromay, isle, Harris, ii. 517.
Strome, Lochcarron, ii. 193.
STROMNESS, burgh, Orkney, ii. 518.
Stron, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Stronehavie, farm, Moulin, ii. 285.
Stronchrubie, farm, in Assynt, i. 73.
Stronfernan, village, Kenmore, ii. 519.
Stronmilchan, farm, Glenorchy, i. 509.
Stronriggan, stream, Dairy, i. 267.
Stronsay and Eday, parish, Orkney, ii.
519.
Stronshira, headland, Inverary, i. 566.
Strontiax, district, Ardnamurchan, ii. 520.
Stroquhan, estate, Dunscore, i. 339.
Strowan,old parish, Blair- Atholl, i. 132, 133
Strowan, Perthshire. See Monimirrl and
Stroican.
4N
INDEX.
struie, hiU, Edderton, i. 359.
Struthers, old seat, Ceres, i. 195.
Stray, house, Kiltarlity, ii. 64.
Stuartfield, village, Old Deer, ii. 521.
Stuartown, village, Pettie, ii. 521.
Stuekrogert, lands, Luss, ii. 222.
Succoch, liill, Leochel and Cushnie, ii.
166.
Suddy, Ross and Cromarty. See Knock-
bain.
Suidhe-Chatain, hill, Kingarth, ii. 74.
Suie Hills, Clatt, i. 200.
Suilvhen, mountain, Assynt, i. 73.
Sullom Voe, Northmavine, ii. 323.
Sumburgh, headland, Dunrossness, i. 338.
Summer Isles, in Lochbroom, ii. 521.
Summerlee, village, Old Monkland, ii. 521.
Summersdale, in Firth and Stenness, i.
432.
Sunadale, stream, Saddell and Skipness, ii.
446.
Sunart, district, Argyll, i. 64, 65.
Sunderland Hall, Selkirk parish, ii. 460.
Sunderland House, Kilchoman, ii. 27.
Sundruni Castle, Coylton, i. 221.
Sunlaws Tower, Roxburgh parish, ii. 439.
Sunnybank, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Sunny Lodge, Lanark, ii. 143.
Sunnyside, house, Liberton, ii. 1 78.
Susannah, mine, Leadhills, ii. 159.
SUTHERLANDSHIRE, ii. 521.
Suursay, isle, Harris, ii. 523.
Swaites Hill, Pettinain, ii. 372.
Swanbister, bay, Orphir, Orkney, ii. 333.
Swannay, isle, Orkney, ii. 525.
Swanston, village, Colinton, ii. 523.
Swarbach's Minn, Sandsting and Aithsting,
ii. 450.
Swartmill, lake, Westray, ii. 600.
Sweetheart, abbey, Newabbey, ii. 304.
Swendrow, in Rousay isle, Orkney, ii. 437.
Sueno's Stone, obelisk, Rafford, ii. 400.
Swineholm, isle, Evie, ii. 523.
Swiney, village, Latheron, ii. 523 — ii. 155.
Swinnie, in Jedburgh, i. 588.
Swinridgemuir, house, Dairy, i. 267.
Swinsey, burn, Stewarton, ii. 488.
Swi.nton and Simfrim, parish, Berwick, ii.
523.
Swinton, village, Old Monkland, ii. 525.
Switha, isle, Walls and Sandness, ii. 589.
Swona, isle, Orkney, ii. 525.
Sword Well, in Dornock, i. 287.
Swordle, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Swordly, valley, Farr, i. 418.
Sydserf, in North Berwick, i. 123.
Si'MiNGTON, parish, Ayr, ii. 525.
Symington, parish, Lanark, ii. 525.
Synniness Castle, Old Luce, ii. 218.
Synton Moss, Ashkirk, i. 72.
Taamer, isle, Bracadale, i. 151.
Taftsness, headland, Sanda, Orkney, ii. 449.
TAIN, burgh, Ross and Cromarty, ii. 526.
Taing, hamlet, in Fair, i. 411.
Tala, stream, Tweedsmuir, ii. 568.
Talla, islet, Port of Monteith, ii. 387.
Tallisker Head, Bracadale, i. 151.
Talmine, bay, Tongue, ii. 549.
Tamnahara, hill, Roseneath, ii. 427.
642
Tanara Isles, in Lochbroom, ii. 527-
Tanfield, village, Aberdeen, ii. 617.
Tangi.eha, hamlet, St. Cyrus, ii. 528.
Tangwick, mansion, Northmavine, ii. 324.
Tanna, loch, Kilmorie, ii. 51.
Tanuach, in Wick, Caithness, ii. 609.
Tannaehy, mansion, Rathven, ii. 405.
Tannachy, New, village, Rathven, ii. 528.
Tannadice, parish, Forfar, ii. 528.
Tanner, rivulet, in Aboyne, Aberdeen, i. 31.
Tantallan Castle, North Berwick, i. 123,
289.
Tar Hill, Ecclesmachan, i. 356.
Taransay, Inverness. See Tarrinsay.
Taras Water, Langholm, ii. 147.
Tarbat, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii. 529.
Tarbat House, Kilmuir Easter, ii. 53, 54.
Tarbert, hill, West Kilbride, ii. 24.
Tarbert, in Harris, Inverness, i. 536.
Tarbert, town, Kilcalmouell, ii. 529.
Tarbert, East Loch, South Knapdale, ii. 134.
Tarbert, West Loch, Kilcalmonell and Kil-
berry, ii. 25.
Tarbet, Arroehar, i. 72.
Tarbet, Castle of, Dirleton, i. 282.
Tarbet, Loch, Jura, Argyll, i. 591.
Tarbet, East, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Tarbet, West, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Tabbolton, parish, Ayr, ii. 530.
Tarelaw Linn, in Straiton, ii. 506.
Tarff, river, Kirkowan, ii. 121.
Tarff, river, Tongland, Kirkcudbright, ii.
547.
Tarff, stream, Boleskine, i. 139.
Tarfside, hamlet, Lochlee, ii. 531.
Tarlain, Well of, Gamrie, ii. 225.
Tarland and Migvie, parish, Aberdeen, ii.
531.
Tarrinsay, isle, Harris, ii. 532.
Tarth, stream, Kirkurd, ii. 127.
Tarty, burn, Foveran, i. 452.
Tarves, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 532.
Tarvit, near Cupar, Fife, i. 195, 256.
Tatius-Holm, camp, Kirkpatrick-Juxta, ii.
126.
Tay, loch, Kenmore, ii. 11.
Tay, liver, Caputh, i. 177 ; Cargill, 179 ;
Dull, 301 ; Inchture, 560 ; Kenmore, ii.
1 1 ; Kinnoull, 88 ; Perthshire, 365 ;
Weem, 595.
Tayfield, lands, Forgan, i. 442.
Taymouth, estate, Kenmore, ii. 12.
Tayribbi, village, Lismore and Appin, ii.
190.
Tayvallich, village, North Knapdale, ii. 133.
Teagus, loch, Morvern, ii. 283.
Tealing, parish, Forfar, ii. 533.
Teampul-na-Trianade, in North Uist, ii. 575.
Teanassie, farm, Kilmorack, ii. 49.
Teasses, house, Ceres, i. 195.
Teindlaud, The, Elginshire, i. 50.
Teith, river, Perthshire, ii. 38, 365.
Teith, Bridge of, village, Kilmadock, ii.
534.
Templand, village, Loehmaben, ii. 534.
Temple, lands, Darvel, i. 272.
Temple, lands, Linton, ii. 186.
Temple, house, Kinneff, ii. 84.
Temple, parish, Edinburgh, ii. 534.
Temple, village, Largo, ii. 535.
Temple, in Troon, Ayr, ii. 561.
Temple-Brae, lands, Turriff, ii. 565.
Temple-Croft, near Fodderty, i. 435.
Temple-Denny, lands, Denny, i. 278.
Temple-Feu, house, Turriff, ii. 565.
Temple Garden, Jedburgh, i. 588.
Templehall, Ormiston, ii. 331, 333.
Temple Hall, Whitsome and Hilton, ii. 607.
Templeland, house, Forgue, i. 444.
Temple-Liston, Kirkliston, ii. 10.9.
Tenandry, district, Perthshire, ii. 536.
Tendal, stream, Ardchattan, i. 62.
Tents Moor, Leuchars, ii. 174.
Ternate, lake, Morvern, ii. 283.
Ternavie, station, Dunning, i. 335.
Terregles, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 536.
Terringzean, castle, Old Cumnock, i. 254,
Terth, stream, Newlauds, ii. 311.
Teunan, in Banff. See Forglen.
Teviot, river, Cavers, i. 193 ; Eckford, 357 ;
Kelso, ii. 8.
Teviotbank House, Minto, ii. 259.
Texa, isle, Kildalton, ii. 536.
Thainston, lauds, Kintore, ii. 93, 94.
Thanes Castle, Druuimelzier, i. 293.
Thankeston, village, Covington, ii. 536 — i.
128.
The Hirst. See Hirst, The. And all places
liaving a similar prefix will be found under
the proper name, and not under The.
Thief's Cave, Monzie, ii. 276.
Third, East, Smailholm, ii. 471.
Third, West, SmaiUiolm, ii. 471.
Thirlestane, in Yetholm, ii. 622.
Thirlstane, Lauder, ii. 156.
Thirlstane, seat, Ettrick, i. 407, 408.
Thomas, St., lands, Renfrew parish, ii. 414.
Thomaston, castle, Kirkoswald, ii. 121.
Thorlieshope, estate, Castleton, i. 191.
Thorn, village, Paisley, ii. 536.
Thornhill, village, Kincardine, ii. 537.
Thornhill, village, Morton, ii. 536 — ii. 282.
Thornlieeank, village, Eastwood, ii. 537.
Thornton, hamlet, Carrington, ii. 537.
Thornton, hamlet, Glammis, ii. 537 — i- 478.
Thornton, stream, Innerwick, i. 562.
Thornton, village, Fife, ii. 537— ii. 231,232.
Thornton Castle, Marykirk, ii. 235.
Thornton House, Kilmaurs, ii. 46.
Thorntonloch, village, Innerwick, ii. 537 —
i. 562, 563.
Thorntree-Mains, farm, Tranent, ii. 558.
Threave Castle, in Balmaghie, i. 96.
Three Brethren Cairn, hill, Selkirk parish,
ii. 460.
Three-Mi le-Town, hamlet, Ecclesmachan,
ii. 537.
Three-Shire Stone, Crawfordjohn, i. 231.
Three Sisters, cliff's, West Kilbride, ii. 24.
Threepwood, Beith, i. 113, 114.
Thrieplaw, in Gladsmuir, i. 476, 477, ii. 357.
Throsk, mansion, St. Ninian's, ii. 321.
Thrumster House, Wick, ii. 611.
THURSO, burgh, Caithness, ii. 537.
Tibbermore, parish, Perth, ii. 539.
Tiber's Castle, Penpont, ii. 355, 357-
Tiel, river, Auchtertool, i. 81.
Tig, river, Ballantrae, i. 93, 94.
Tigerton, village, Menmuir, ii. 540.
Tigheaman, mountain, Glenorchy, i. 509.
Tillanamont, in Tyrie, ii. 571.
Tillichewen, seat, in Bonhill, i. 141.
Tillicoultry, parish, Clackmannan, ii. 540.
Tilling, hill, Shotts, i. 119.
Tillyfour, mansion, Oyne, ii. 336.
Tillygreig, house, Udny, ii. 572.
INDEX.
Tilquhilly, seat, Kincardineshire, ii. 71.
Tilt, river, Blair-Atholl, i. 132.
Tilt Bridge, Blair-Atholl, i. 133.
Tilwhilly, lands, Banchory-Ternan, i. 101.
Timah, rivulet, Ettrick, i. 407.
Timpandean, fortress, Jedburgh, i. 586.
Tingwall, Whiteness, and Weesdale, pa-
rish, Shetland, ii. 541.
Tinnes Castle, Drummelzier, i. 293.
Tinnis Hill, Castleton, i. 190.
Tinto, mountain, Lanarkshire, i. 181, ii. 526.
Tinwald, parish, Dumfries, ii. 542.
Tinwald Downs, Dumfries, i. 306.
Tirally, bay, Kirkmaiden, ii. 114.
Tiree and Coll, parish, Argyll, ii. 543.
Tirefoor, castle, Lismore and Appin, ii. 190.
Tirlundie, hill, Tyrie, ii. 375.
Tister, in Bower, i. 150.
Titwood, lands, Govan, i. 514.
Toar of Troup, Aberdour, Aberdeen, i. 23.
Tobermory, town, Argyll, ii. 545.
Toberonchy, bay, Kilbrandon and Kilchat-
tan, ii. 19.
Toberonchy, village, Kilbrandon and Kil-
chattan, ii. 20.
Todhead, Montrose, ii. 273.
Todhills, hamlet, Tealing, ii. 546.
Todhills, village, Liberton, i. 473.
Todshawhill, farm, Roberton, ii. 422.
Toftingall, loch, Watten, ii. 594.
Tofts, Nether, farm, Kirktoun, ii. 127.
Toinne-Beinne, in Eddrachillis, i. 360.
Tolbooth, parish. See Edinburgh.
Tollcross, village, Glasgow, ii. 546.
Tollis Hill, Lauder, ii. 157.
Tollow Hill, of the Grampians, i. 99.
Tolquhon, castle, Tarves, ii. 533.
Tolsta, bay, Stornoway, Lewis, ii. 502.
Tomachar, hamlet, Port of Monteith, ii. 546.
Tomachar, stone, Logie-Coldstone, ii. 207.
Tom-a-chastel, hill, Monivairdand Strowau,
ii. 266.
Tom-a-Cliroich, mound, Pettie, ii. 372.
Torn-a-Mhoid, mound, Pettie, ii. 372.
Tomatin, lands, Moy and Dalrossie, ii. 287.
Toniavem, Kincardine O'Neil, ii. 71.
Tonibia, in Inveraven, i. 568.
Tomereck, hamlet, Weem, ii. 546.
TostiNTOUL, village, Kirkmichael, ii. 546 —
ii. 116.
Tomnarraeh, burn, Ardclaeh, i. 63.
Tomphobuil, in Dull, i. 301.
Tonderghie, in "Whithorn, ii. 606.
Tong, river, Stornoway, Lewis, ii. 502.
Tongland, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 547.
Tongue, parish, Sutherland, ii. 548.
Tonley, seat, in Tough, ii. 556.
Tookquoy, bay, Westray, ii. 600.
Tor-a-Bhean, Inverness, i. 578.
Tor-Alvie, in Alvie, Inverness, i. 42.
Torboll, in Dornoch, i. 286.
Torbolton, Ayr. See Tarbolton.
Torbrex, village, St. Ninian's, ii. 550.
Torcastle, in Dallas, i. 263.
Tordarroch, in Dunlichty, i. 273.
Tordoff, in Graitney, i. 516.
Torewood, Banffshire, i. 462.
Torfoot, lands, Avondale, i. 84.
Torgarrow, burn, Ardelach, i. 63.
Tor Hill, Ecclesmachan, i. 356.
Torloisk, house, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii.
55.
Torlum, hill, Muthill, ii. 296, 297.
643
Tormard, loch, Reay, ii. 409.
Torness, in Stronsay, ii. 519.
Torogay, isle, Harris, ii. 550.
Torosay, parish, Argyll, ii. 550.
Torphichen, parish, Linlithgow, ii. 552.
Torquhah, mansion, Stow, ii. 504.
Torra, river, in Lewis, i. 109.
Torrance, ancient parish, East Kilbride, ii.
22, 23.
Torrance, mansion, Forgandenny, i. 443.
Torrance, village, Campsie, ii. 553 — i. 175.
Torridon, district, in Applecross, i. 54, 55.
Torrie, granite quarries, Aberdeen, i. 13.
Torrie House, Torryburn, ii. 554.
Torrisdale, stream, Saddell and Skipness, ii.
446.
Torrisdale, village, Tongue, ii. 553, 549 —
i. 418.
Torrs, farm, Kelton, ii. 10.
Torr's Lake, Kirkcudbright, ii. 101.
Torry, village, in Nigg, ii. 553.
Torry, village, in Torryburn, ii. 553.
Torryburn, parish, Fife, ii. 554.
Torsay, isle, Kilbrandon and Kilchattan, ii.
554.
Torsouce Castle, Stow, ii. 504.
Torthorwald, parish, Dumfries, ii. 554.
Torwood, Little Dunkeld, i. 331.
Torwood, village, Dunipace, ii. 555.
Torwoodlee, mansion, Stow, ii. 504.
Toscarton, ancient parish, Stoneykirk, ii.
501.
Tothorl Castle, Douglas, i. 288.
Touch, lands, St. Ninian's, ii. 320, 321.
Touch, Easter and Wester, lands, Fife, i. 1.
Tough, parish, Aberdeenshire, ii. 555 — i. 35.
Toward, hi Dunoon and Kilmun, i. 337.
Towe Hill, Cumbernauld, i. 250.
Tower, burn, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Tower Hill, Kinfauns, ii. 73.
Towie-Barclay, house, Turriff, ii. 567.
Townend House, Symington, ii. 525.
Town-Head, Banchory-Ternan, i. 101.
Tovvnhead, hamlet, Penpont, ii. 356.
Town Loch, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Town-Yetholm, Roxburgh. See Yetholm.
Tradeston, suburb, Glasgow, ii. 558.
Trafalgar, hamlet, Collessie, i. 213.
Trailflat, hamlet, in Tinwald, ii. 558 — ii.
542, 543.
Trailtrow, ancient ehapelry, i. 252.
Trallaig, loch, Kilninver and Kilmelford, ii.
57-
TRANENT, town, Haddington, ii. 558.
Traplain Law, Haddingtonshire, i. 529, ii.
393.
Traquair, parish, Peebles, ii. 559.
Trees, farm, Maybole, ii. 241.
Treesbank, seat, Riccarton, ii. 420.
Treig, river, Kilmonivaig, ii. 48.
Treishnish, isles, in Kilninian, ii. 560 — ii.
54, 56.
Tressness, district, Lady parish, Orkney, ii.
138.
Tresta, bay, in Fetlar, i. 423.
Tresta, in Sandsting and Aithsting, ii. 451.
Trevie, Loch, Dallas, i. 263.
Trialivall, lake, Lochs parish, ii. 200.
Trinafour, Blair-Atholl, i. 133.
Trinity, Newhaven, North Leith, ii. 310.
Trinity-Gask, Perthshire. See Gask, Trinity.
Trinity-Muir, hamlet, Brechin, ii. 560 — i.
152.
Trochain, Kirkmichael, ii. 115.
Trochery, castle, Little Dunkeld, i. 332.
Troda, isle, Kilmuir, ii. 560.
Trohaughton, hill, Dumfries, i. 307.
Tromie, river, Kingussie, ii. 81.
Tron-Church, parish. See Edinburgh.
Trondray, isle, Tingwall, Whiteness, and
Weesdale, ii. 560.
Trool, loch, Minnigatf, ii. 257.
TROON, town, in Dundonald, Ayr, ii. 560
— ii. 42.
Troqueer, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 561.
Trosachs, The, Perthshire, i. 25.
Troup Head, Gamrie, Banff, i. 461.
Troup House, Gamrie, i. 462.
Trow Craigs, rocks, Roxburgh parish, ii.
439.
Trows, New, village, Lesmahago, ii. 562.
Truderscaig, loch, Sutherland, ii. 523.
Truim, river, Kingussie, ii. 81.
Truhisgarry, district, North Uist, ii. 562.
Trustach Hill, Banchory-Ternan, i. 101.
Trysting-Stones, Morebattle and Mow, ii.
278.
Trysting-tree, elm, Roxburgh parish, ii. 439.
Tua, Loch, Isle of Mull, ii. 292.
Tudhope, in Jedburgh, i. 588.
Tudhope, mountain, Castleton, i. 190.
Tuimpan, headland, Stornoway, Lewis, ii.
502.
Tuiteam-Tarbhach, Kincardine, ii. 68.
Tulina, ancient town, Perthshire, i. 177-
Tulliallan, parish, Perthshire, ii. 562.
Tullibardine, lands, Blackford, i. 131.
Tullibody, village, Alloa, ii. 563 — i. 36, 37-
Tullich, village, Glenmuick, ii. 563 — i. 31.
Tulliehetal, old parish, Perth, i. 215.
Tullichewen, lands, Luss, ii. 222.
Tulliebole, Kinross. See Fossoicay and Tid-
liebole.
Tullius' hill, Lauder, ii. 157.
Tulloch, estate, Dingwall, i. 280, 281.
Tulloch, loch, Rafford, ii. 400. .
Tulloch, village, Perth, ii. 563.
Tulloch-ard, mountain, Kintail, ii. 92.
Tulloch Castle, Ross and Cromarty, ii. 430.
Tulloch, Nether, farm, Garvock, i. 468.
Tullos, hill, Nigg parish, ii. 317.
Tullybeagles, in Methven, i. 78, 79-
Tullybelton, in Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Tullydivie, in Edmkillie, i. 393.
Tullynessle and Forbes, parish, Aberdeen,
ii. 563— i. 35.
Tulm, isle, Kilmuir, ii. 53.
Tummel, Loch, Blair-Atholl, i. 132.
Tummel, river, Fortingal, i. 448 ; Moulin,
ii. 284; Perthshire, 365.
Tummel-Bridge, Dull, i. 301, 302.
Tundergarth, parish, Dumfries, ii. 564.
Turin, Aberlemno, Forfar, i. 26, 27-
Turleum, hill, Monivaird and Strowan, ii.
266.
Turn-again Hill, Redgorton, ii. 410.
Tumberry Castle, Kirkoswald, ii. 120.
Turner Hall, Ellon, i. 402.
Turnlaw, hill, Lanark, i. 169.
Turret, Loch, Monivaird and Strowan, ii.
266.
Turret, river, Crieff, i. 235.
TURRIFF, burgh, Aberdeen, ii. 565— ii.
271.
Turry Chapel, in Coull, i. 220.
Tushielaw, castle, Ettrick, i. 408.
4N 2
INDEX.
Tweeddale. See Peeblesshire.
Tweeden, stream, Castleton, i. 190.
Tweed-Hill, Hutton, i. 553.
Tweed, river, Berwick, i. 124, 126.
Tweed, river, Melrose, ii. 246; Peebles, 349,
350.
Tweed's Cross, Tweedsmuir, ii. 568.
Tweedsjiuir, parish, Peebles, ii. 567 — *-
293.
Twinlaw Cairns, Westruther, ii. 601.
Twtnholm, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 568.
Tylliminnet, glen, Gartly, i. 466.
Tyncairn, in Alvil, Inverness, i. 42.
Tyndrum, village, Killin, county of Perth,
"ii. 569— ii. 37.
Tyne, river, Castleton, i. 190.
Tyne, river, Crichton, i. 233 ; Gladsmuir,
476 ; Haddington, 527 5 Prestonkirk, ii.
393.
Tynninghame, village, Whitekirk, ii. 569,
604, 605.
Tynrox, parish, Dumfries, ii. 569.
Tyrebagger, hill, Dyce, i. 345, 346.
Tyrie, county Argyll. See Tiree and Coll.
Tyrie, parish, Aberdeenshire, ii. 570.
u
Uaghlamaich, cave, Jura and Colonsay, i.
591.
Uaighmor, hill, Kilrnadoek, ii. 38.
Uaine, loch, Logie-Coldstone, ii. 207.
Uamvar, hill, Kilraadock, ii. 38.
Udale, residence, Cromarty, i. 238.
Uddingston, village, Bothwell, ii. 571.
Uddington, village, Douglas, ii. 572.
Udny, parish, Aberdeen, ii. 572 — ii. 225.
Ugie, river, St. Fergus, i. 422 ; Peterhead,
ii. 370; Strichen, 516.
Uig, parish, Ross and Cromarty, ii. 572.
.Uigg, bay, Skye, ii. 472; isle, 473.
Uii, in Stornoway parish, Lewis, ii. 503.
Uilevay, bay, Barra, i. 107-
Uisgava, loch, South Uist, ii. 576.
Uisge, loch, Torosay, ii. 551.
Uist, North, parish, Inverness, ii. 574.
Uist, South, parish, Inverness, ii. 575 — i.
107.
Ulbster, in Wick, Caithness, ii. 611.
Ulinish, isle, in Kilmuir, ii. 577-
Ullapool, village, in Lochbroom, ii. 577-
Ullhouse, mansion, Delting, i. 277.
Ulston, village, Jedburgh, ii. 577-
Ulva, island, Kilninian and Kilmore, ii.
577.
Unarav, isle, Yell, ii. 578.
Underbank, villa, West Kilbride, ii. 24.
Underwood, house, Craigie, i. 223.
Unieh, stream, Forfarshire, i. 441.
Unicorn, rock, Bressay, i. 153.
Union, late quoad sacra parish, in Aberdeen,
i. 17.
Union Canal, i. 379.
Union Suspension-Bridge, Hutton, i. 554, ii.
348.
Uxst, parish, Shetland, ii. 578.
Unthank, seat, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Unthank, farm, Ewes, i. 409.
Ui'Hall, parish, Linlithgow, ii. 580.
Uplamoir, village, Neilston, ii. 580 — ii.
■300.
Uppat, seat, Sutherland, ii. 523.
644
Upperbie, or Overbie, Eskdalemuir, i. 407.
Upsetlington, village, Ladykirk, ii. 580— ii.
138.
Urchany, hill, Nairn, ii. 298.
Ure, loch, Stornoway, Lewis, ii. 502.
Ure, river, Ardchattan, Argyll, i. 62.
Urigill, loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Urie Bay, in Fetlar, i. 423, 424.
Urie, loch, Kilbride, ii. 21.
Urie, river, Culsamond, i. 247 ; Keith-Hall
and Kinkell, ii. 5.
Urquhart, parish, Elgin, ii. 581.
Urquhart and Glenjiorriston, parish, In-
verness, ii. 582.
Urquhart and Logie Wester, parish,
Nairn, and Ross and Cromarty, ii. 583.
Urr, Bridge of, Kirkpatrick-Durham, ii.
122.
Urr, parish, Kirkcudbright, ii. 585.
Urr, river, Colvend, i. 215 ; Kirkpatrick-
Durham, ii. 122 ; Urr, 585.
Urrard, mansion, Moulin, ii. 284.
Urray, parish, Inverness, and Ross and
Cromarty, ii. 585.
Ury, estate, Fetteresso, i. 426.
Usan, village, Craig, Forfar, ii. 586 — i. 222,
223.
Ushinish, headland, South Uist, ii. 576.
Ussie, loch, Fodderty, i. 435.
Uy"a, isle, Northmavine, ii. 586.
Ui'A, isle, Unst, ii. 586.
Uya Sound, house, Unst, ii. 579, 580. ■
Uyea, residence, Shetland, ii. 463.
Vaila, isle, Walls and Saudness, ii. 586.
Valey, isle, Sandsting and Aithsting, ii.
586.
Vallay, island, North Uist, ii. 586.
Valley, The, Stirling, ii. 491.
Valleyfield, hills, Unst, ii. 578.
Valleyfield, house, Tongland, ii. 547.
Valleyfield, Penicuick, ii. 354.
Valleyfield, Low, village, Culross, county
of Perth, ii. 586.
Valtos, in Uig, Ross and Cromarty, ii.
574.
Vanduaria, Paisley, ii. 337.
Vane, castle, Fearn, i. 419.
Varis, in Elginshire, i. 444.
Varrich, promontory, Tongue, ii. 548, 550.
Vasa, Skerry of, Shapiushay, Orkney, ii.
462.
Vat, The, in Tullich, i. 508.
Vatten, farm, Duirinish, i. 300.
Vealloch, Loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Vementry, island, Sandsting, ii. 586— ii.
450.
Veneheon, farm, Yctholm, ii. 622.
Veness, headland, Eday, ii. 519.
Venlaw, mansion, Peebles, ii. 349.
Vennachar, loch, Perthshire, ii. 366.
Venny, lake, Forfar, i. 440.
Vernon, Mount, Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Vestrafiold, hill, Sandwick, ii. 451.
Veyatie, loch, Sutherland, ii. 522.
Vicarland, village, Cambuslang, ii. 586.
Vicar's Bridge, Dollar, i. 283.
Vicar's Croft, in Fordyce, i. 438.
Viewfield, residence, Nairn, ii. 299.
Viewpark, mansion, Morningside, ii. 280.
Vigean's, St., parish, Forfar, ii. 586— i. 57,
58.
Vinney, stream, Dunnichen, i. 334; Kirk-
den, ii. 104.
Voil, Loch, Balquhidder, i. 99.
Vorgay, isle, in North Uist, ii. 574.
Vorgie House, Borthwick, i. 145.
Vrae, hills, Turriff, ii. 566.
Vuiavore, island, Uig, ii. 587.
Vuiay-, island, Bracadale, ii. 588.
w
Wadbister Voe, in Tingwall, ii. 541 .
Walesley, farm, Avondale, i. 84.
Walkingshaw, mansion, Renfrew, ii. 414.
Wallace's Cairn, Loudoun, ii. 217.
Wallace's Castle, in Gamrie, i. 462.
Wallace's Cave, Lasswade, ii. 154.
Wallace's Cave, in Torphichen, ii. 553.
Wallace's Chair, Libberton, ii. 399.
Wallace Hall, Closeburn, i. 203.
Wallace's Knowe, morass, Lochwinnoch, ii.
203.
Wallace's Leap, Roseneath, ii. 428.
Wallace's Seat, Kilbarchan, ii. 17.
Wallace's Seat and Tower, Dumbarton, i.
303.
Wallace's Stone, Polmont, ii. 378.
Wallace's Tower, Roxburgh parish, ii. 439.
Wallace's Tree, Elderslie," i. 396.
Wallace Tower, Auehterhouse, i. 80.
Wallacetown, in Auchinleck, i. 76.
Wallacetown, district, St. Quivox, ii. 588.
Wallhouse, house, Torphichen, ii. 553.
Walliford, grounds, Inveresk, ii. 295.
Walls and Sandness, parish, Shetland, ii.
588.
W Alston, parish, Lanark, ii. 590.
Walton, hamlet, Cults, ii. 591.
Walton, hill, Cults, i. 249.
Walton Dam, Neilston, ii. 300.
Walton Park, seat, Kirkpatrick-Durham,
ii. 122.
Wajiphray, parish, Dumfries, ii. 591.
Wandell and Lammingtoune, parish, La-
nark, ii. 592.
Wangie, hill, Dallas, i. 263.
Wanlockhead, village, Sanquhar, ii. 593.
Ward, The, village, Cruden, ii. 593— i. 243,
244.
Ward, hill, Bressay, i. 153.
Ward House, Kinnethmont, ii. 87.
Wardie, near Granton, Edinburgh, i. 520.
Wardlaw, ancient parish, Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Wardlaw, hill, Ettrick, i. 407.
Wardlaw, hill, Kirkmahoe, ii. 112.
AVardlaw Bank, Coldingham, i. 208, 209.
Wardlaw Hill, Kirkhill, ii. 106.
Ware, stream, St. Bathan's, i. 110.
Warmanbie, house, Annan, i. 52.
Warness, headland, Eday, ii. 519.
Warrickhill, house, Dreghorn, i. 291.
Wart, hill, Orphir, ii. 333.
Washington, village, Cupar- Angus, ii. 593.
Watchman's Hill, Kirkmahoe, ii. 112.
Watchman's Stone, Clachnaharry, i. 198.
Waterbeck, village, Middlebie, ii. 593.
Wateresk, vale, Cortachy, i. 218.
Waterloo, village, Auclitergaven, ii. 593.
Waternish, district, Duirinish, ii. 593— i.
299, 300.
INDEX.
Water of Leith, Edinburgh. See Leith,
Water of.
Water Sound, Burray, i. 162.
Watersav, island, Barra, ii. 594.
Waterside, estate, Keir, ii. 2.
Waterstein, cliffs, Duirinish, i. 300.
Waterston, hamlet, Eeclesmachan, ii. 594.
WatertoD, Aberdeenshire, ii. 310, 533.
Watertowu, in Ellon, i. 401.
Watling-Street, Oxnam parish, ii. 33G.
Watston, loch, Kilmadock, ii. 38.
Watswick, bay, Unst, ii. 578.
Watten, parish, Caithness, ii. 594.
Watt's-Town, village, New Monkland, ii.
595.
Wauchope, old parish, Dumfries, i. 530.
Wauehope, river, Langholm, ii. 1 46.
Wauchope Castle, Langholm, ii. 147-
Wear Hill, Melrose, ii. 247.
Weatherholm, islet, Unst, ii. 579.
Weaths, castle, Kirkbean, ii. 392.
Wedale, district, Stow parish, ii. 503.
Wedderburn, castle, Murroes, ii. 294.
Wedderburn Castle, Dunse, i. 340.
Wedderlie, mansion, Westruther, ii. 602.
Weem, parish, Perth, ii. 595.
Weems Hole, cave, Kirriemuir, ii. 132.
Weems Park, Kirriemuir, ii. 132.
Weesdale. See Tingwall, Whiteness, and
Weesdalc.
Weir, Bridge of, village, Renfrew, ii. 596
— i. 549.
Wellington Bridge, Nigg, ii. 318.
Wellmeadow, Mearns, ii. 242.
Well-Park, district, Glasgow, ii. 597.
Wellsbum Spout, in Eskdalemuir, i. 406.
Well-Trees Spout, spring, Maybole, ii. 241.
Wemyss, bay, Innerkip, i. 561.
Wemyss, parish, Fife, ii. 597-
Wemyss, East, village, in Wemyss, ii. 597,
598.
Wemyss, West, village, in Wemyss, ii. 597,
598.
Wemyss Hall, Cupar, i. 256.
West Bridgend. See Bridgend, West.
And all places having a similar distinguish-
ing prefix will be found under the proper
name.
Westair, lake, Lady parish, Orkney, ii. 138.
Westbarns, village, in Dunbar, ii. 598— i.
310, 312.
AVesteridge, village, Kinghom, ii. 598.
West-Coates, residence, Newburn, ii. 309.
Wester, Loch, in Wick, ii. 610.
Wester-Elchies, mansion, ii. 136.
Westerhall, estate, Westerkirk, ii. 599.
Westerkirk, parish, Dumfries, ii. 598— i.
406.
Western Ferry, Erskine, i. 405.
Western Isles, or Hebrides, i. 539.
Westerton, seat, Elgin, i. 398.
Westerwood, farm, Cumbernauld, i. 250.
Westfield, house, Cupar, i. 256.
West-Green, Kinross, ii. 91.
Westhall, seat, Oyne, ii. 336.
West-Head, near Portsoy, i. 438.
Westhouses, village, Newbattle, ii. 599.
Westmoin, district, Durness, i. 342.
Westmuir, village, Glasgow, ii. 599.
Westmuir, village, Kirriemuir, ii. 599.
Westness, residence, Rousay isle, Orkney,
ii. 437.
Weston, in Tarbolton, Ayr, ii. 531.
645
Westowx, village, Errol, ii. 599— i. 404.
West-Pans, Kincardine, ii. 67.
West parish. See Aberdeen.
Westquarter, burn, Polmont, ii. 378 ; House,
379.
Westquarter, village, Glasford, ii. 599 — i.
500.
Westraw, lauds, Pettinain, ii. 372.
Westray, parish, Orkney, ii. GOO.
Westruther, parish, Berwick, ii. 601.
Westthorn, house, Camlachie, i. 172.
West-Voe, in Dunrossness, i. 338.
West- Water, Dunsyre, i. 341.
West- Water, Edzell, i. 395.
Whalefirth Voe, in Mid Yell, ii. 619.
Whalsay, island, in Nesting, ii. 602.
Whapple, bay, Sorbie, ii. 473.
Wharral, loch, Cortachy, i. 218.
Whim, mansion, Newlands, ii. 311.
Whines, hamlet, E,uthven, ii. 602.
Whinnie-Fauld, village, Cruden, ii. 602.
Whins of Milton, village, Stirling, ii. 603.
Whinyeon, loch, Twynholm, ii. 569.
Whistleberry Castle, Kinneff, ii. 84.
Whitburgh, mansion, Keith and Humbie,
ii. 4.
Whitburn, parish, Linlithgow, ii. 603 — ii.
191.
Whiteadder, river, Abbey St. Bathan's, i.
110; Bunkle, 159; Edrom, 394, 395 ;
Foulden, 452.
Whiteash, Banffshire, i. 403.
Whiteby, Keig, ii. 2.
Whiteeamp, farm, Crawford, i. 230.
Whitecastle, fortress, Garvald and Bara, i.
467.
Whitecastle, hill, Carmichael, i. 181.
Whitecastle, lands, Libberton, ii. 177-
White Cave, in Slains and Forvie, ii. 468.
White-Chapel, at Spottiswoode, Berwick, i.
512.
Whitecleugh, in Crawfordjohn, i. 231.
White Esk, river. See Esk, White.
Whitefaugh, hamlet, Carrington, ii. 603.
Whiteflat, in Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Whitehall, house, Chirnside, i. 197.
Whitehall, village, Stronsay, ii. 603.
Whitehall, old palace, Dundee, i. 319.
Whitehaugh, house, Wilton, ii. 615.
Whitehaugh, mansion, Tullynessle, ii. 564.
Whitehaugh, stream, Muirkirk, ii. 291.
Whitehill, Lanarkshire, i. 489.
Whitehill, in New Deer, i. 275.
Whitehill, in Wandell and Lammingtoune,
ii. 593.
Whitehill, farm, New Cumnock, i. 253.
Whitehill, mansion, Carrington, i. 187.
Whitehill, village, Dalkeith, ii. 604.
Whitehill Cottage, in Aberdour, Fife, i. 24.
Whitehills, village, Boindie, ii. 604 — i.
138,139.
Whiteholm, farm, Tundergarth, ii. 565.
White-holm, lands, Kirkpatrick-Juxta, ii.
125.
Whitehouse, Edinburgh, i. 386, ii. 280.
Whitehouse, estate, Blairgowrie, i. 134.
Whitehouse, mansion, Tough, ii. 556.
White-Inch, in Govan, i. 515.
Whitekirk and T ynninghame, parish, Had-
dington, ii. 604.
Whitelaw, hill, Morebattle and Mow, ii. 278.
Whiteletts, village, St. Quivox, ii. 605.
Whiteley, in Leochel and Cushnie, ii. 167.
White Loch, Dunfermline, i. 324.
Whiteloch, lake, Carnwath, i. 185.
Whitemill, headland, Sanda, Orkney, ii. 449.
White Moss, Lake, Dunning, i. 335.
Whitemyre, village, Dyke and Moy, ii. 605.
Whiteness. See Imgwall, Whiteness, and
Weesdale.
Whiten Head, in Tongue, and Durness, ii.
549.
White-Sheets, hill, Auchterhouse, i. 79.
Whitestone, in Strachan parish, ii. 504.
Whitewells, house, Tannadice, ii. 528.
White-Ween, hill, Dryfesdale, i. 296.
Whitfield, Linton, ii. 186.
WHITHORN, burgh, Wigton, ii. 605.
Whithorn, Isle of, village, ii. 606.
Whiting, bay, Kilbride, ii. 21.
Whitslaid, Legerwood, ii. 161.
Whitsome and Hilton, parish, Berwick, ii.
607.
Whitstone Hill, lands, Tundergarth, ii. 565.
WniTTiNGHAM, parish, Haddington, ii. 607-
Whittingham Water, Whittingham, ii. 608.
Whitton, fort, Morebattle and Mow, ii. 278.
Whytbanklee, hamlet, Stow, ii. 504.
Wia, isle, Barra, Inverness, ii. 608.
Wia, isle, South Uist, ii. 608.
Wick, bay, Unst, ii. 578.
WICK, burgh, Caithness, ii. 609.
Wideford, hill, Kirkwall and St. Ola, ii. 129.
Wideopen, in Morebattle and Mow, ii. 279.
Wier, island, Rousay and Egilshay, ii. 611.
Wig, basin, Kirkcolrn, ii. 99.
WIGTON, or Wigtown, burgh, ii. 611.
WIGTONSHIRE,orWiGTOWNSHiRE,ii.612.
Wildshaw, in Crawfordjohn, i. 231.
AVilkiston, village, Kirknewton, ii. 614 — ii.
120.
Williamfield House, Symington, ii. 525.
Williamsburgh, suburb, Paisley, ii. 339.
Williamsburgh, village, Clunie, i. 203.
Williamshaw, mansion, Stewarton, ii. 488.
Williamston House, Culsamond, i. 247.
Wilsontown, village, Carnwath, ii. 614.
Wilton, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 614.
Winchburgh, village, Kirkliston, ii. 615 —
ii. 110.
Windhead, hill, Roxburghshire, ii. 440.
Windlestrae Law, hill, Selkirkshire, ii. 461.
Windmill-Hill, village, Dalziel, ii. 615— i.
271.
Windy-Edge, hamlet, Sanquhar, ii. 615.
Windygates, village, Markinch, ii. 615.
Windy Gowle, Kinnoull, ii. 88.
Wine Tower, in Fraserburgh, i. 455.
Winewell, mineral well, Peterhead, ii. 369.
Winless, Loch, in Wick, ii. 610.
Winthank, lands, Cameron, i. 172.
Winton, village, Pencaitland, ii. 615— ii.
351.
Wirren, hill, Lethnott and Navar, ii. 173.
Wishaw, estate, Cambusnethan, ii. 489.
Wishawton, Lanark. See Stewarton anrl
Wishaicton.
Wisp, hill, Dollar, i. 283.
Wisp, mountain, Cavers, i. 193.
Wiston and Roberton, parish, Lanark, ii.
616.
Witches' Howe, Forfar, i. 439.
Witches' Stone, St. Martin's, ii. 233.
Wolf-Clyde, in Culter, i. 248.
Wolfhill, village, Cargill, ii. 616.
Wolflee, mansion, Southdean, ii. 476.
Wood, farm, Kirkmichael, ii. 117.
Woodbank, house, in Bonhill, i. 141.
Woodburn, mansion, Morningside, ii. 280.
Woodburn, mansion, Newbattle, ii. 305.
Woodcock-Air, hill, in Annan, Dumfries,
i. 52.
Woodcot, mansion, Edinburghshire, i. 412,
Wooden, mansion, Kelso, ii. 8.
Wooden Hill, Eckford, i. 357.
Wood-End, in Cathcart, i. 192.
Woodend, hamlet, Methven, ii. 610 — i. 38.
Woodend, mansion, Kinnoull, ii. 88.
Woodend, mansion, Madderty, ii. 226.
Woodend Cottage, in Dairsie, i. 260.
Woodend Loch, Old Monkland, ii. 269.
Woodgate, in Denny, i. 279.
Woodhall, Old Monkland, ii. 270.
Woodhall, Loch, Balmaghie, i. 97.
Woodhall, mansion, Bothwell, i. 148.
Woodhaven, village, Forgan, ii. G16.
Woodhead, in Campsie, i. 175.
Woodhead, in Fyvie, i. 457.
Woodhead, creek, Forgan, ii. 312.
Woodhead, farm, Kirkmichael and Culli-
cudden, ii. 119.
Woodhead, mansion, Kirkintilloch, ii. 109.
Woodhill, in Alva, Stirling, i. 40.
Woodhill, Kirkmichael, Dumfries, ii. 117-
Woodhill, mansion, Kirkmichael, Perth, ii.
" 118.
Woodhouselee, seat, Glencross, i. 504.
INDEX.
Woodhouse Tower, Kirkpatrick-Fleming,ii.
123.
WoodlSnd, hill, Dalrymple, i. 268.
Woodlands, seat, St. Vigean's, ii. 587.
Woodlane, village, Kincardine, ii. 616.
Woodriff, lands, Newburgh, ii. 307.
Woodside, Beith, i. 113.
Woodside, district, Aberdeen, ii. 610.
Woodside, mansion, Kelso, ii. 8.
Woodside, village, Cargill, ii. 617-
Woodside, village, Largs, ii. 617.
Woodside, village, Markinch, ii. 617.
Woodside, North, village, Glasgow, ii. 617.
Woodside Hill, Morebattle and Mow, ii. 278.
Woodston Hill, St. Cyrus, i. 258, 259.
Woodville, mansion, Morningside, ii. 280.
Woodwick, bay, Evie and Rendall, i. 408.
Woodwick, bay, Unst, ii. 578.
Woolman hill, Aberdeen, i. 10, 12.
Woolniet, ancient parish, Newton, ii. 312.
Wormiston, house, Crail, i. 226.
Wormit, bay, Forgan, i. 441.
Wormyhills, in Arbuiot, Forfar, i. 56.
Wrath, Cape, Durness, i. 342.
Wreaths, Kirkbeau, ii. 96.
Wrights Houses, Edinburgh, i. 388.
Wuddy-law, hill, Kinnell, ii. 85.
Wyesbie, mansion, Kirkpatrick-Fleming, ii.
124.
Wynnie, stream, Auchtergaven, i. 78.
Y
Yair, mansion, Selkirk parish, ii. 400.
Yardside, farm, Riccarton, ii. 420.
Yarrow, hills, Wick, ii. 610.
Yarrow, parish, Selkirk, ii. 617-
Yarrowford, village, Selkirk, ii. 019.
Yell, island, Shetland, ii. 619.
Yell, Mid and South, parish, in Yell, ii.
619.
Yell, North, Shetland. See Fetlar and
North Yell.
Yeskenaby, township, Sandwick, ii. 452.
Yesker, isle, Kilmuir, ii. 53.
Yester, parish, Haddington, ii. 620— i. 471.
Yetbyre, farm, Eskdalemuir, i. 407.
Yetholm, parish, Roxburgh, ii. 621.
Yieldshields, hamlet, Carluke, Lanark, ii.
622.
Yonbell, hill, Sandwick, ii. 451.
Yoolfield, mill, Kemback, ii. 10.
York, New, village, in Strontian, ii. 520.
Ystrad Cluyd, Lanarkshire, ii. 144.
Ythan, river, Ellon, i. 401 ; Logie-Buchan,
ii. 206 ; Slains and Forvie, 468, 469.
Zetland, Isles of. See Shetland.
I
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