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4- 


TOPOGRAPHICAL    DICTIONARY 


SCOTL AN  D 


COMPRISING   THE 


SEVERAL  COUNTIES,  ISLANDS,  CITIES,  BURGH  AND  MARKET  TOWNS, 
PARISHES,  AND  PRINCIPAL  VILLAGES, 

WITH 

HISTORICAL  AND  STATISTICAL  DESCRIPTIONS 

EMBELLISHED  WITH 

A  LARGE  MAP  OF  SCOTLAND, 

AND 

ENGRAVINGS  OF  THE  SEALS  AND  ARMS  OF  THE  DIFFERENT  BURGHS  AND  UNIVERSITIES. 


BY  SAMUEL  LEWIS. 

IN     TWO    VOLUMES. 

VOL.  I. 

From  ABBEY  to  JURA. 


LONDON: 
PUBLISHED   BY   S.   LEWIS  AND  CO.,   13,   FINSBURY   PLACE,   SOUTH. 


iM.DCCC.XLVI. 


LON DON : 

gilbert  and  rivington,  printers, 
st.  john's  sciuare. 


PREFACE. 


The  Proprietors  of  the  Topographical  Dictionary  of  Scotland  feel  they  shall  stand 
excused  if  they  indulge  in  some  expression  of  pride  and  satisfaction,  on  presenting  their 
Subscribers  with  the  concluding  portion  of  their  great  undertaking  in  illustration  of 
the  Topography  of  the  United  Kingdom.  Many  years  have  now  elapsed  since  they 
tirst  circulated  proposals  for  publishing  Dictionaries  of  England,  Wales,  Ireland,  and 
Scotland,  in  succession,  in  Ten  Volumes.  Those  years,  they  flatter  themselves,  have  not 
been  ill  spent  in  endeavouring  to  make  the  Volumes  more  exact  and  comprehensive  than 
they  could  possibly  have  been  made  in  a  shorter  period ;  and  the  Proprietors  of  this  almost 
National  Publication  can  truly  say,  that  they  have  spared  no  pains,  and  held  back  from 
no  expense,  calculated  to  render  their  labours  worthy  of  the  favour  of  their  Sub- 
scribers. Whilst  they  have  disbursed  a  fortune  in  the  preparation  of  the  several  portions 
of  the  Work,  they  have  borne  in  mind  that  they  were  engaged  in  no  ordinary  object  of 
pecuniary  investment. 

So  much  has  been  said  in  the  Prefaces  to  the  former  parts  of  the  Work,  that  it  is  unne- 
cessary to  dwell  here  upon  the  plan  laid  down  for  its  compilation.  In  Scotland,  as  in  the 
other  divisions  of  the  United  Kingdom,  the  aim  has  been,  to  procure  as  much  original 
matter  as  possible ;  to  correct  the  statements  of  books  and  manuscripts  in  public  libraries 
by  local  examination  and  enquiry ;  and  to  bring  the  account  of  each  place  up  to  the  present 
time.     And  as  in  the  Prefaces  to  the  Dictionaries  of  England  and  Wales,  the  Proprietors 

a  2 


iv  PREFACE. 

had  to  acknowledge  the  courtesy  which  their  representatives  had  experienced  in  South 
Britain,  so  now  they  "  beg  to  return  their  unfeigned  thanks  for  the  kind  attention 
uniformly  manifested,  and  the  valuable  information  liberally  communicated,  to  their 
agents,"  while  in  North  Britain.  To  the  assistance  of  the  resident  Nobility,  Gentry,  and 
Clergy,  and  of  Persons  holding  official  situations,  must  be  ascribed  much  of  the  value  of  the 
following  pages ;  and  the  Proprietors  deem  it  a  fortunate  circumstance  for  them,  that  the 
love  of  country  which  has  ever  peculiarly  distinguished  the  Scottish  Nation,  induced  the 
intelligent  inhabitants  of  its  several  localities  to  afford  them  such  willing  aid  towards 
rendering  this  epitome  of  Scotland  complete  and  accurate.  The  same  spirit  that  led 
to  the  publication  of  the  Old  and  New  Statistical  Accounts  of  Scotland,  two  Works  whose 
fame  is  European,  has  led  to  a  favourable  reception  of  the  design  of  the  Proprietors  of 
this  Work. 


But  while  they  consider  it  superfluous  again  to  explain  fully  the  plan  upon  which  the 
Works  on  England,  Wales,  Ireland,  and  Scotland  were  alike  compiled,  they  may 
refer  to  one  course,  among  others,  which  they  adopted  in  preparing  the  two  pre- 
sent Volumes.  This  was,  to  address  the  following  Letter  to  the  Clergy,  resident  Landed 
Proprietors,  Literary  Gentlemen,  and  others,  a  copy  of  it  being  sent  to  each  parish  in  the 
country :  "  Sir,  We  take  the  liberty  of  forwarding  to  you  a  list  of  Queries,  intended  as 
the  basis  of  our  forthcoming  Topographical  Dictionary  of  Scotland,  and  shall  be  par- 
ticularly obliged  by  your  answers  to  them  at  your  earliest  convenience.  We  feel  that  in 
soliciting  this  favour  we  are  trespassing  upon  your  valuable  time ;  yet,  as  our  object  is  to 
afford  an  accurate  and  faithful  description  of  your  highly  interesting  country,  we  trust  that 
you  will  pardon  the  obtrusion.     We  have  the  honour  to  be,  &c.  &c,  S.  Lewis  and  Co." 

To  this  Letter  was  annexed  the  ensuing  list  of  Queries,  with  a  view  to  obtain  infor- 
mation on  some  of  the  subjects  intended  to  be  comprised  in  the  Work : — 1,  Name  of 
the  parish ;  in  what  county,  and  on  what  river  or  turnpike-road  situated : — 2,  Name  of 
the  post-town,  and  the  distance  of  the  parish  from  it : — 3,  Number  of  statute  acres, 
and  whether  by  computation  or  admeasurement;  the  numbers  or  proportions  of  arable, 


PREFACE.  v 

pasture,  woodland,  &c. : — i,  The  distinguishing  features  of  the  surface  and  scenery  : — 
5,  The  nature  of  the  soil ;  chief  agricultural  produce,  and  the  principal  geological 
features  of  the  parish : — 6,  What  gentlemen's  seats  of  importance ;  what  villages,  and  the 
chief  employment  of  their  inhabitants : — 7,  What  facilities  afforded  by  railroad,  navigable 
river,  or  canal : — 8,  What  mines  or  quarries ;  their  respective  produce ;  and  to  what  use 
applied : — 9,  What  manufactories,  mills,  foundries,  potteries,  or  '  other  works ;  and  the 
number  of  hands  employed  in  each : — 10,  What  fairs ;  when  held,  for  what  commodities, 
and  how  attended: — 11,  The  name  of  the  patron  of  the  incumbency: — 12,  The  style  of 
architecture  of  the  church  or  churches ;  the  date  and  cost  of  erection,  and  from  what 
funds  defrayed ;  and  any  description  of  the  building  or  buildings : — 13,  What  places  of 
worship  for  Seceders,  and  their  several  denominations : — 14,  Parochial  and  free  schools ; 
almshouses,  or  other  charitable  institutions ;  how  supported ;  when  and  with  what  funds  the 
buildings  were  erected: — 15,  Remains  of  religious  houses;  castles;  when  and  by  whom 
founded ;  present  state  of  the  edifice  or  ruins,  and  to  whom  belonging : — 1 6,  Antiquities ; 
camps,  cromlechs,  barrows,  tumuli,  Druidical  remains,  &c. : — 1 7,  Natural  curiosities,  mine- 
rals, fossils ;  mineral  springs ;  if  used  for  medicinal  purposes,  their  peculiar  properties : — 
18,  Names  of  eminent  natives  or  residents  of  the  place: — 19,  What  title  the  place  con- 
fers, and  on  what  family. 

Answers  to  these  Queries  were  received  from  nearly  every  parish  in  Scotland,  the  com- 
munications generally  affording  the  fullest  details  upon  the  topics  in  question,  and  largely 
contributing,  from  the  immediate  connexion  of  the  Writers  with  the  different  localities,  to 
the  accuracy  of  the  Work.  The  Proprietors  consider  it  as  not  a  little  remarkable,  that  out 
of  the  great  number  of  Circulars  issued,  a  very  few  only  were  unanswered,  and  some  of 
those  few,  they  venture  to  believe,  merely  on  account  of  the  temporary  absence  of  the  Gen- 
tlemen addressed. 

The  facilities  afforded  by  the  present  system  of  Postage  also  enabled  the  Proprietors  to 
send  Printed  Proofs  of  the  Articles  on  the  parishes  and  other  important  places,  to  all  parts 
of  Scotland,  accompanied  by  the  following  Letter : — "  Sir,  Being  engaged  in  preparing  for 


vi  PREFACE. 

publication  a  Topographical  Dictionary  of  Scotland,  and  desirous  to  render  the  descrip- 
tions of  the  various  places  comprised  in  it  as  accurate  as  possible,  we  take  the  liberty  of 
forwarding  for  your  perusal  the  accompanying  rough  Proof,  and  shall  esteem  it  a  particular 
favour  if  you  will  kindly  correct  any  error  you  may  detect,  and  return  the  paper  by  an  early 
post,  as  the  Press  is  kept  standing  at  very  considerable  inconvenience.  In  the  hope  that 
you  will  pardon  this  obtrusion,  we  have  the  honour,  &c.  &c,  S.  Lewis  and  Co."  Thus 
nearly  every  page  of  the  Work  was  forwarded  to  the  spot  to  which  it  related,  during  the 
passage  of  the  sheets  through  the  Press ;  and  of  the  entire  number  of  Articles,  as  many 
as  twelve-thirteenths  were  duly  returned,  with,  in  some  cases,  very  important  emendations. 
To  Ministers  of  parishes  and  the  Town-Clerks  of  almost  all  the  burghs,  especially,  the 
Proprietors'  thanks  are  due  for  the  promptitude  with  which  the  Proofs  submitted  to 
their  perusal  were  revised.  All  responsibility,  however,  connected  with  the  Dictionary 
of  Scotland,  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  state,  rests  with  the  Editors ;  for,  while  they  have 
endeavoured  in  every  possible  way,  consistently  with  the  plan  of  the  Book,  to  meet  the 
views  of  those  who  favoured  them  with  information,  or  with  corrections  of  the  Proofs,  they 
have,  of  course,  often  been  compelled  to  use  their  own  discretion,  and  have  not  lost  sight 
of  the  fact,  that  it  is  to  Publishers  that  readers  look  as  the  accountable  parties. 

For  the  Seals  and  Arms  that  embellish  the  Work,  the  Proprietors  are  chiefly  in- 
debted to  the  Town-Clerks  of  the  several  Burghs,  who  obliged  them  with  the  wax  impres- 
sions from  which  most  of  the  engravings  have  been  executed.  Their  best  acknowledgments 
are  also  due  to  the  Principals  of  King's  College  Aberdeen,  of  Marischal  College  Aberdeen, 
and  of  Glasgow  College ;  the  Reverend  the  Librarian  of  the  University  of  Edinburgh ;  and 
the  Reverend  C.  J.  Lyon,  M.A.,  of  St.  Andrew's,  Author  of  the  valuable  History  of  that 
city ;  for  copies  of  the  Official  Seals  of  the  five  great  Universities  of  Scotland,  and  for 
other  favours. 

It  may  be  well  to  remind  the  Reader,  that  the  statements  of  Acres  refer  to  the 
Imperial  standard  measure,  unless  otherwise  expressed.  The  amounts  of  the  parochial 
Ministers'  stipends  are  the  average  of  several   years,    and  are  derived   from  a  Parliamen- 


PREFACE.  vii 

tary  Return,  generally,  however,  corrected  by  local  information ;  the  rateable  annual  value 
of  each  parish  is  inserted  also  on  the  authority  of  a  Parliamentary  Paper,  compiled  for  the 

purposes  of  the  Income  tax. 

• 

It  is  likewise  proper  to  observe  that  the  Work,  as  denoted  in  the  Title-page,  simply 
comprises  separate  Articles  upon  the  Islands,  Counties,  Cities,  Towns,  Parishes,  and  Principal 
Villages ;  the  rivers,  mountains,  lakes,  seats,  and  such  objects,  being  (unlike  the  manner  of 
a  general  Gazetteer)  described  under  the  heads  of  parishes,  &c.  Thus,  Abbotsford,  the  seat 
of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  is  noticed  in  the  article  on  Melrose.  The  arrangement  of  the  places 
is  strictly  Alphabetical,  each  being  given  under  its  proper  name,  and  the  epithet,  if  any, 
by  which  it  is  distinguished  from  another  locality  of  the  same  designation,  following  after 
the  chief  heading.  In  this  way,  all  such  terms  as  St.,  East,  West,  North,  and  South,  Great 
and  Little,  Old  and  New,  will  be  found  to  come  after  the  real  names  ;  as  Andrew's,  St. ; 
Berwick,   North;   Cumnock,  Old;  Monkland,  New. 

At  the  end  of  the  First  Volume  will  be  found  a  copious  Index  of  the  Places  described 
in  the  Work,  whether  under  their  own  heads  or  incidentally.  At  the  end  of  the  Second 
Volume  is  placed  a  large  Map  of  Scotland,  in  Six  Divisions,  on  a  scale  of  five  miles  to  an 
inch,  which  has  been  prepared  by  the  Proprietors  at  a  great  expense,  although  their  pro- 
posals contained  no  promise  of  such  an  addition  to  the  Work.  Before  the  execution 
of  this  Map,  it  had  been  suggested  by  a  few  of  their  Subscribers  that  maps  of  each  county, 
of  the  size  of  the  Work,  would  form  a  valuable  accompaniment ;  but  the  Proprietors  soon 
found  that  it  would  be  extremely  injudicious  to  bring  such  widely-extended  districts  as 
Inverness  and  Argyll,  with  their  irregular  boundaries,  into  the  same  space  as  the  small, 
compact  shires  of  Kinross,  Linlithgow,  and  Renfrew.  The  Reader  would  probably  have  been 
misled  if  one  Plate  should  present  a  scale  of  fifteen  miles  to  an  inch,  while  the  scale  of 
another  was  but  three ;  and  no  uniform  plan  could  have  been  laid  down  as  to  what  places 
should  be  inserted,  and  what  excluded.  Prefixed  to  the  Map  of  Scotland  is  a  Table 
showing  the  Contents  of  each  of  its  Divisions. 


viii  PREFACE. 

In  conclusion,  the  Proprietors  have  to  request  the  kind  indulgence  of  the  Subscribers 
with  regard  to  any  errors  they  may  occasionally  detect.  No  Topographical  work  can  be 
wholly  free  from  errors.  To  complain  that  inaccuracies  have  crept  into  a  Compilation  of 
this  nature,  would  be  only  to  say,  in  other  words,  that  the  hand  of  time  may  be  stayed, 
that  the  fugitive  and  varying  circumstances  of  a  country  can  be  always  the  same,  and  that 
perfection  is  attainable  by  man.  The  Proprietors  have  used  every  means  to  ensure  cor- 
rectness, and  they  trust  that  any  slight  faults  the  Work  contains  will  be  leniently  re- 
garded. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL    DICTIONARY 


OF 


SCOTLAND, 


A  B  B  O 

ABBEY-GREEN,  a  considerable  village,  in  the  parish 
of  Lesmahago,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark, 
6  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Lanark;  containing,  with  Turf- 
holm,  881  inhabitants.  This  village,  formerly  called 
Macute's-Green,  derives  its  present  name  from  its  vici- 
nity to  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  monastery  dependent  on 
the  abbey  of  Kelso.  It  is  pleasantly  seated  in  a  valley 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Nethan.  a  fine  stream  tributary 
to  the  Clyde,  and  is  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and 
contains  the  parochial  church.  The  inhabitants  are 
employed  in  various  trades  requisite  for  the  supply  of 
the  neighbourhood,  and  in  hand-loom  weaving  for  the 
manufacturers  of  Glasgow  and  Paisley. 

ABBEY  PARISH,  Renfrewshire.— See  Paisley. 

ABBEY  ST.  BATHAN'S.  — See  Bathan's,  St. 

ABBOTSHALL,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kirk- 
caldy, county  of  Fife  ;  containing,  with  Linktown  and 
Newtown,  and  the  village  of  Chapel,  4811  inhabitants, 
of  whom  4100  are  in  the  town  of  Abbotshall.  This 
place  derived  its  name  from  its  having  been  the  resi- 
dence of  the  abbots  of  Dunfermline,  one  of  whom  erected 
a  mansion  here,  the  site  of  which  is  still  pointed  out  by 
a  yew-tree  of  very  ancient  growth.  The  lands,  which, 
about  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century,  belonged  to  the 
abbey  of  Dunfermline,  are  supposed,  after  the  Dissolu- 
tion of  monasteries,  to  have  been  granted  to  the  bailies 
and  corporation  of  the  town  of  Kirkcaldy,  and  by  them 
transferred  to  the  family  of  the  Scotts  of  Balweary, 
from  whom  they  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  Ram- 
says  of  this  place,  and  were  purchased  by  the  ancestors 
of  the  present  proprietor.  The  greater  portion  of  the 
lands  formerly  in  Kirkcaldy,  was,  in  the  year  1650, 
separated  from  that  parish,  and,  together  with  the  lands 
of  Easter  and  Wester  Touch,  formerly  in  the  parish  of 
Kinghorn,  and  those  of  Wester  Bogie,  in  the  parish  of 
Dysart,  erected  into  a  separate  and  distinct  parish, 
under  the  appellation  of  Abbotshall.  The  parish  is 
situated  on  the  Frith  of  Forth,  by  which  it  is  bounded 
o       Vol.  I. —  1 


A  B  B  O 

* 

on  the  south-east,  and  comprises  3166  Scotch  acres,  of 
which  2631  are  under  tillage,  and  about  500  in  natural 
wood  and  plantations  ;  the  surface  along  the  coast  is 
level,  but  the  ground  rises  in  a  gentle  slope,  towards 
the  middle  of  the  parish,  and  thence  is  pleasingly  undu- 
lated. A  small  stream  issuing  from  the  Camilla  loch, 
in  the  parish  of  Auchtertool,  on  the  west,  flows  through 
the  lower  lands  into  the  river  Tiel,  near  its  influx  into 
the  sea.  The  soil  is  mostly  fertile ;  towards  the  coast, 
it  is  light,  but  productive  ;  on  the  rising  grounds,  more 
inland,  it  is  a  deep  rich  loam,  and  in  other  parts  varies 
considerably  in  quality.  The  crops  are,  wheat,  barley, 
oats,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  with  peas,  beans,  and  other 
green  crops  ;  the  system  of  husbandry  is  in  a  highly 
improved  state,  and  the  farm-buildings,  and  the  inclo- 
sures  and  fences,  are  kept  in  excellent  repair.  Few 
sheep  are  fed,  except  on  the  lands  belonging  to  the 
principal  seats,  and  these  are  generally  of  the  Cheviot 
breed  ;  there  are  a  few  black-cattle  reared,  chiefly  of 
the  Fifeshire,  and  a  mixture  of  the  Fife,  Angus,  and 
other  breeds.  The  plantations,  which  are  mainly  on 
the  estate  of  Raith,  consist  of  oak,  ash,  elm,  chesnut, 
sycamore,  beech,  spruce,  and  Scotch  firs,  with  some 
larch,  with  the  exception  of  which  last  all  thrive  well, 
and  attain  to  a  majestic  growth.  The  substratum  is 
generally  carboniferous  limestone,  and  coal  interspersed 
with  trap ;  the  limestone  is  quarried  for  manure  and 
other  uses,  and  there  are  extensive  lime-works  in  the 
village  of  Chapel,  but  the  coal,  from  the  immediate  vici- 
nity of  long-established  mines,  from  which  an  abundant 
supply  is  obtained  at  a  moderate  price,  has  not  been 
worked  for  many  years.  Fossils  of  various  kinds  are 
found  imbedded  in  the  limestone ;  and  there  are  some 
quarries  of  freestone  in  the  parish,  which  is  used  for 
building  purposes. 

The  chief  seat  is  Raith :  the  mansion-house  was 
partly  built  in  1694,  by  Lord  Raith,  who  erected  the 
central   portion,  to   which  two    capacious  wings   were 

B 


ABBO 


A  B  D  I 


added  by  the  late  Mr.  Ferguson  ;  and  the  present  pro- 
prietor has  completed  the  building  by  the  erection  of  a 
beautiful  portico  of  the  Ionic  order,  rendering  the  whole 
one  of  the  most  spacious  and  elegant  mansions  in  the 
country.  The  demesne  is  very  extensive,  and  richly 
planted  ;  and  the  pleasure-grounds  are  ornamented  by 
a  picturesque  lake,  surrounded  with  fine  walks,  varied 
with  parterres  of  flowering  shrubs  and  thriving  planta- 
tions. This  lake,  which  covers  more  than  twenty  acres, 
was  formed  in  1812;  it  is  in  some  parts  twenty-five  feet 
in  depth,  and  abounds  with  fish  of  various  kinds,  and  is 
frequented  by  numerous  aquatic  birds  ;  it  is  situated  at 
the  base  of  the  eminence  on  which  the  mansion  is  built, 
and  adds  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  Within 
a  short  distance  of  the  house,  and  nearly  on  the  summit 
of  a  hill,  is  a  lofty  tower,  from  which  is  obtained,  on 
a  clear  day,  a  view  over  fifteen  counties  ;  in  front  of 
the  house  is  a  remarkably  fine  beech-tree,  measuring 
fourteen  feet  in  girth,  and  among  the  plantations  are 
numerous  specimens  of  stately  and  venerable  timber. 
Wester  Bogie,  another  residence,  is  a  handsome  castel- 
lated mansion  of  modern  erection,  situated  in  a  demesne 
of  no  great  extent,  but  laid  out  in  fine  taste  and  embel- 
lished with  flourishing  plantations.  The  chief  manu- 
facture is  the  weaving  of  ticking,  which  is  carried  on  to 
a  very  considerable  extent,  employing  nearly  500  looms ; 
the  weaving  of  dowlas  has  also  been  introduced,  both 
for  the  home  trade  and  for  exportation.  There  is  a  fac- 
tory worked  by  steam,  for  manufacturing  a  thin  kind 
of  linen-sheeting,  another  for  canvass  for  making  sails, 
and  also  a  bleachfield.  The  parish  contains  several 
mills  for  barley-meal  and  flour,  all  which,  together  with 
one  for  grinding  flint,  are  driven  by  water  ;  a  pottery  for 
brown  earthenware  is  carried  on  by  the  proprietor  of 
the  flint-mill,  and  there  is  likewise  a  large  establish- 
ment for  the  making  of  bricks  and  tiles,  for  which  pur- 
pose clay  of  good  quality  is  found  in  the  neighbourhood. 
Coal-gas  works  have  been  established  for  lighting  the 
towns  of  Linktown  and  Newtown;  a  brewery  is  also 
conducted,  but  the  only  produce  is  small  beer.  Fairs 
are  held  in  Linktown  on  the  third  Friday  in  April  and 
October,  which  were  great  marts  for  the  sale  of  linseed 
and  black-cattle,  but  both  have  for  some  time  been  de- 
clining, and  the  principal  articles  exposed  for  sale  are 
shoes,  which  are  brought  from  a  distance,  and  articles 
of  pedlery. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcaldy  and 
synod  of  Fife ;  patron,  R.  Ferguson,  Esq.  The  stipend 
of  the  incumbent  is  £199.  11.  11.;  the  manse  was  re- 
built in  1772,  and  has  been  recently  enlarged,  and  the 
glebe  comprises  65  acres  of  good  land,  valued  at  £36 
per  annum.  The  present  church,  which  occupies  the 
site  of  the  ancient  edifice,  was  built  in  1788,  and  is 
adapted  for  a  congregation  of  825  persons.  An  addi- 
tional church,  in  connexion  with  the  Establishment,  has 
just  been  erected  for  the  accommodation  of  the  surplus 
population  of  this  and  the  adjoining  parish  of  King- 
horn  ;  and  there  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church  and  United  Associate  Synod.  The  parochial 
school  affords  a  liberal  education  ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34.  4.  5.,  with  £35  school  fees,  and  £25  from 
other  sources.  There  is  also  a  free  school  endowed  by 
Robert  Philip,  Esq.,  who  bequeathed  property  to  the 
amount  of  £80,000,  for  the  foundation  and  endowment 
2 


of  schools  in  Abbotshall,  Kirkcaldy,  Dysart,  and  King- 
horn  ;  the  number  of  children  attending  the  school  in 
this  parish  is  100,  who  are  all  clothed,  and  supplied 
with  books  and  stationery,  and,  on  leaving  the  school, 
receive  a  sum  of  money  to  enable  them  to  learn  some 
trade.  Near  the  site  of  the  tower  in  the  demesne  of 
Raith,  have  been  found  coffins  of  stone,  rudely  formed, 
and  urns  containing  human  bones.  There  are  still  some 
remains  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Balweary,  consisting 
chiefly  of  the  eastern  wall,  which  is  entire,  and  part  of 
the  north  and  south  walls  ;  they  are  more  than  six  feet 
in  thickness,  and  appear  to  have  inclosed  an  area  of 
about  thirty  feet.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  Sir  Michael 
Scott,  who,  from  his  eminence  in  the  science  of  mathe- 
matics, and  in  general  literature,  was  regarded  as  a 
prodigy  ;  on  his  return  to  his  native  land,  after  many 
years  spent  in  the  universities  of  the  continent,  he  was 
appointed,  on  the  death  of  Alexander  III.,  to  bring  home 
the  young  queen  from  Norway.  William  Adam,  the 
architect,  was  also  a  native  of  the  parish.  The  place 
has  given  title  to  many  distinguished  persons,  among 
whom  were,  Thomas  Scott  and  Andrew  Ramsay,  Lords 
Abbotshall ;  and  George  Melville,  Earl  of  Raith. — See 
Linktown,  and  Newtown. 

ABDIE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cupar,  county 
of  Fife,  2^  miles  (S.  S.  E.)  from  Newburgh  ;  including 
the  villages  of  Lindores  and  Grange  of  Lindores,  and 
the  suburb  of  Mount- Pleasant ;  and  containing  1508 
inhabitants.  This  place  formed  part  of  the  lands  of 
Macduff,  Thane  of  Fife ;  it  continued  in  the  possession 
of  his  descendants  for  many  ages,  and  afterwards,  toge- 
ther with  the  earldom,  passed  to  the  family  of  Mordac, 
Duke  of  Albany,  on  whose  attainder  and  decapitation  at 
Stirling,  in  the  reign  of  James  I.,  his  estates  in  Fife,  and 
other  property,  reverted  to  the  crown.  The  lands  of 
Denmill,  which  included  the  greater  portion  of  this 
parish,  were  granted  by  James  II.  to  James  Balfour,  son 
of  Sir  John  Balfour,  of  Balgarvie,  one  of  whose  de- 
scendants was  killed  in  the  battle  of  Flodden  Field,  to 
which  he  attended  his  sovereign  James  IV.  ;  and  another, 
Sir  James  Balfour,  of  Denmill,  was  appointed  lyon  king- 
at-arms  to  Charles  I.  and  II.,  kings  of  England.  There 
are  still  remaining  vestiges  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Lin- 
dores, in  the  village  of  that  name,  said  to  have  been  the 
residence  of  Duncan  Macduff,  first  thane  of  Fife  ;  near 
which,  according  to  the  annals  drawn  up  by  Sir  James 
Balfour,  a  sanguinary  battle  took  place  in  the  year  1300, 
between  the  Scots,  headed  by  Sir  William  Wallace,  and 
the  English,  when  the  latter  were  defeated,  with  the  loss 
of  3000  slain  on  the  field,  and  500  taken  prisoners. 

The  parish,  anciently  called  Lindores,  was  formerly 
of  much  greater  extent  than  at  present,  including  the 
lands  of  the  parish  of  Newburgh,  which  was  separated 
from  it  in  1633.  Its  surface  is  very  uneven,  rising  in 
some  parts  into  hills  of  considerable  elevation,  of  which 
the  highest  are  the  Norman's  Law  and  the  Clatchard 
Crag  ;  the  former,  which  is  936  feet  above  the  sea,  com- 
mands an  extensive  prospect,  combining  much  interest- 
ing scenery,  especially  towards  the  north,  embracing 
the  Carse  of  Gowrie,  with  its  richly  cultivated  surface, 
and  the  Frith  of  Tay,  and  lands  in  its  vicinity,  which 
are  richly  planted.  The  Clatchard  Crag,  situated  to  the 
south-east  of  Newburgh,  is  a  tall  and  stately  cliff, 
abruptly  rising  to  an  elevation  of  250  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  plain,  and  towering  with  rugged  majesty 


ABDI 


ABER 


above  the  road,  which  passes  near  its  base.  The  prin- 
cipal river  is  the  Tay,  which  bounds  the  parish  on  the 
north  and  east ;  and  a  powerful  stream  issues  from 
the  loch  of  Lindores,  in  the  parish,  and,  in  its  course, 
gives  motion  to  several  large  mills.  The  loch  of  Lin- 
dores is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  covering  nearly  70 
acres  of  ground,  and  is  in  many  places  almost  20  feet  in 
depth  ;  it  is  supplied  by  a  copious  stream  that  rises  in  a 
tract  of  moss  about  half  a  mile  distant,  called  the  Priest's 
burn,  which  in  the  winter  is  never  frozen,  and  in  the 
driest  summers  is  always  abundant.  The  lake  abounds 
with  perch,  pike,  and  eels,  and  is  much  frequented  by 
ducks,  teals,  and  snipes.  The  number  of  acres  in  the 
parish  is  nearly  7000,  of  which  4580  are  arable,  about 
1530  in  pasture,  300  under  wood,  and  the  remainder 
waste  land,  of  which,  probably,  nearly  200  acres  might 
be  brought  into  cultivation.  The  soil  is  extremely  vari- 
ous ;  along  the  banks  of  the  Tay,  in  the  lower  part  of 
the  parish,  it  is  remarkably  fertile  ;  on  the  slopes,  it  is  a 
black  loam  of  great  depth,  and  in  other  parts  light  and 
gravelly.  The  acclivities  of  the  hills  are  partly  covered 
with  heath,  but  in  many  places  afford  good  pasturage  for 
sheep,  of  which  considerable  numbers,  chiefly  of  a 
mixed  breed,  are  reared  in  the  parish,  and  sold  in  the 
neighbouring  markets  ;  great  numbers  of  sheep  of  dif- 
ferent kinds  are  also  fed  here  upon  turnips,  and  shipped 
to  London,  by  steamers  from  Leith  and  Dundee.  The 
chief  crops  are,  barley,  oats,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  tur- 
nips, which,  from  the  improved  system  of  agriculture, 
and  the  draining  and  reclaiming  of  waste  lands,  have 
been  greatly  increased  in  value  ;  and  large  quantities  of 
grain  and  potatoes  are  annually  exported.  There  are 
likewise  several  dairy  farms,  producing  butter  and  cheese 
of  good  quality.  The  substratum  is  generally  whin- 
stone,  of  which  there  are  quarries  in  full  operation;  it 
is  much  valued  for  building  and  other  purposes,  and 
was  formerly  exported  to  a  great  extent.  A  kind  of 
red  sandstone  is  also  prevalent,  and  was  once  quar- 
ried ;  and  limestone  is  found,  but,  from  the  distance 
of  coal,  every  attempt  to  work  it  for  manure  has  been 
given  up. 

The  principal  seat  is  Inchrye  House,  a  castellated 
building  in  the  early  English  style,  crowned  with  battle- 
ments, and  embellished  with  turrets,  erected  at  an  ex- 
pense of  £12,000,  and  seen  with  peculiar  effect  from  the 
road  leading  to  Newburgh  ;  it  is  surrounded  with  thriv- 
ing woods  and  ornamental  plantations,  and  the  grounds 
are  laid  out  with  great  taste.  The  House  of  Lindores, 
the  residence  of  Admiral  Maitland,  who  commanded  the 
Bellerophon  when  Napoleon  Buonaparte  surrendered 
himself  prisoner,  is  pleasantly  situated  upon  an  emi- 
nence, embracing  much  varied  and  interesting  scenery 
overlooking  the  loch  of  Lindores ;  and  there  are  various 
other  handsome  residences,  finely  seated,  and  adding  to 
the  beauty  of  the  landscape.  The  weaving  of  linen  is 
carried  on  in  the  parish,  affording  employment  to  a  con- 
siderable number  of  persons  who  work  with  hand-looms 
in  their  own  dwellings  ;  there  are  corn  and  barley  mills 
in  full  and  increasing  operation,  a  saw-mill  for  timber, 
on  a  very  extensive  scale,  and  a  mill  for  grinding  bones 
for  manure.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod 
of  Fife ;  the  Earl  of  Mansfield  is  patron,  and  the  stipend 
of  the  incumbent  is  £233,  with  a  manse,  and  glebe  com- 
prising 4  acres  of  arable,  and  6  of  pasture,  land,  valued 


at  £23  per  annum.  The  church,  a  plain  substantial 
edifice,  was  erected  in  1827,  and  is  adapted  for  nearly 
600  persons.  The  parochial  school  affords  a  liberal 
course  of  instruction ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34.  4.  4.,  with  £17  from  school  fees,  and  a  good  house 
and  garden.  There  are  some  remains  of  the  ancient 
church,  in  the  porch  of  which  is  still  the  basin  for  the 
consecrated  water ;  and,  till  lately,  the  steps  that 
formed  the  ascent  to  the  altar  were  also  entire.  Urns 
containing  human  bones  and  ashes  have  been  found  in 
several  parts  of  the  parish;  and  one  containing  a  skull 
and  several  bones,  was  recently  dug  up  near  the  foot  of 
Clatchard  Crag,  which  was  inclosed  in  loose  flat  stones 
placed  together  in  the  form  of  a  kistvaen.  A  similar 
urn  was  found  near  the  site  of  the  ancient  abbey  of 
Lindores,  containing  a  great  number  of  small  bones. 
On  the  summit  of  Clatchard  Crag,  are  the  vestiges  of 
an  ancient  fort;  and  near  the  top  of  Norman's  Law, 
are  three  concentric  circles,  of  rough  stones  rudely 
formed,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  a  Danish  en- 
campment. 

ABERCHIRDER,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Mar- 
noch,  county  of  Banff,  7  miles  (W.  by  N.)  from  Tur- 
riff; containing  819  inhabitants.  The  whole  parish  was 
formerly  called  by  the  name  of  this  place,  derived  from 
Sir  David  Aberkerder,  Thane  of  Aberkerder,  who  lived 
about  the  year  1400,  and  possessed  great  property  here. 
The  village  consists  of  three  streets,  regularly  laid  out, 
parallel  to  each  other,  with  a  square  in  the  centre,  in 
addition  to  which,  several  good  substantial  houses  have 
been  recently  built.  It  contains  a  branch  of  the  North 
of  Scotland  bank,  a  stamp-office,  and  a  post-office ;  it  is 
crossed  by  the  turnpike-road  between  Banff  and  Huntly, 
and  that  between  Turriff  and  Portsoy  also  passes  through 
it.     There  is  an  Episcopalian  chapel. 

ABERBROTHOCK.— See  Arbroath. 

ABERCORN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Linlith- 
gow, 5|  miles  (E.  by  N.)  from  Linlithgow ;  contain- 
ing, with  the  villages  of  Newtown  and  Philipstown,  950 
inhabitants.  This  place,  which  derives  its  name  from 
its  situation  at  the  influx  of  the  small  river  Cornie  into 
the  Frith  of  Forth,  is  of  very  remote  origin  ;  and  its 
ancient  castle  occupied  the  site  of  a  Roman  station 
between  the  wall  of  Antonine  and  the  port  of  Cramond 
on  the  Frith,  in  the  harbour  of  which  the  Romans 
moored  their  ships.  A  monastery  appears  to  have  been 
founded  here  at  a  very  early  period  by  the  Culdees, 
which,  in  the  seventh  century,  became  the  seat  of  a 
bishopric ;  but,  after  the  death  of  Egfrid,  King  of 
Northumbria,  who,  in  696,  was  killed  in  a  battle  with 
the  northern  Picts,  the  bishop  who  then  presided  over 
the  see,  not  thinking  the  establishment,  sufficiently 
secure,  removed  it  to  a  place  less  exposed  to  danger. 
Of  the  monastery,  which  is  supposed  to  have  occupied 
a  site  near  the  present  parish  church,  there  are  not  the 
slightest  vestiges  remaining ;  and  its  only  memorial  is 
preserved  in  the  names  Priestinch,  Priest's  Folly,  and 
others,  by  which  several  lands  in  the  parish  that  most 
probably  appertained  to  it,  are  still  distinguished.  The 
castle,  and  the  lands  belonging  to  it,  in  the  12th  century, 
were  the  property  of  the  Avenale  family,  from  whom 
they  passed,  by  marriage,  to  the  Grahams ;  and  in 
1298  they  were  held  by  Sir  John  Graham,  the  friend 
and  firm  adherent  of  Sir  William  Wallace,  under  whose 
banner,  fighting  for  the  independence   of  his  country, 

B  2 


A  B  E  R 


A  B  E  R 


against  Edward  I.  of  England,  he  fell  in  the  battle  of 
Falkirk.  The  estate  subsequently  became  the  property 
of  the  Douglas  family,  and  on  the  rebellion  of  the  Earl 
of  Douglas,  the  castle,  which  was  one  of  the  strongholds 
of  his  party,  was  besieged  by  James  II.,  and  taken  by 
storm  on  the  8th  of  April,  1455,  when  the  earl's  re- 
tainers were  put  to  death,  and  the  fortifications  demo- 
lished ;  the  castle  eventually  became  a  complete  ruin, 
and  every  vestige  of  it  has  long  since  disappeared.  The 
lands  were  afterwards  granted  by  the  crown  to  Claude 
Hamilton,  third  son  of  the  Earl  of  Arran,  and  the  first 
Viscount  Paisley,  by  whose  devoted  attachment  to  the 
fortunes  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  they  became  forfeited  ; 
but  they  were  subsequently  restored  by  James  VI.  to 
his  son,  whom,  in  1606,  that  monarch  created  Earl  of 
Abercorn.  From  this  family,  the  estate  passed  succes- 
sively to  the  Muirs,  Lindsays,  and  Setons  ;  and  in  16/8, 
the  lands,  which  had  been  greatly  diminished  in  extent, 
but  to  which  was  still  attached  the  sheriffdom  of  the 
county,  were  sold  by  Sir  Walter  Seton  to  Sir  John 
Hope,  ancestor  of  the  earls  of  Hopetoun. 

The  parish  is  situated  on  the  south  shore  of  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  and  comprises  about  4500  imperial  acres, 
of  which  3700  are  arable,  meadow,  and  pasture,  67O 
woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  roads  and 
waste.  The  surface  is  pleasingly  undulated,  rising  only 
in  two  points  into  hills  of  any  considerable  eminence,  of 
which  the  highest,  Binns,  has  an  elevation  of  about  350 
feet,  and  Priestinch  of  nearly  100  feet.  The  former  of 
these,  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish,  rising  gra- 
dually from  the  shore  of  the  Frith,  is  arable  to  the  very 
summit,  and  commands  an  interesting  and  extensive 
view  ;  and  the  latter,  on  the  south  border  of  the  parish, 
is  a  precipitous  rock  of  trapstone,  of  elliptical  form,  on 
the  flat  summit  of  which  are  some  remains  of  an  ancient 
fortification.  The  shore,  for  about  four  miles,  is  beauti- 
fully diversified  with  bays,  headlands,  and  undulating 
banks,  enriched  with  plantations  to  the  water's  edge, 
and  occasionally  interspersed  with  verdant  patches  of 
sloping  meadow-land.  The  only  rivers  are,  the  Nether- 
mill  burn,  and  the  Cornie,  a  still  smaller  stream,  which, 
uniting  near  the  church,  flow  into  the  Frith  ;  and  the 
Blackness  and  Linnmill  burns,  of  which  the  former 
separates  the  parish  from  that  of  Carriden,  and  the  latter 
from  the  parish  of  Dalmeny.  The  soil  is  chiefly  a  clayey 
loam,  producing  grain  of  all  kinds  of  good  quality,  with 
potatoes  and  turnips  ;  the  pastures  are  rich,  and  the 
meadows  yield  abundant  crops  of  hay.  Considerable 
attention  has  been  paid  to  the  rearing  of  cattle,  in  which 
much  benefit  has  been  effected  by  the  introduction  of  the 
Teeswater  breed  ;  and  all  the  recent  improvements  in 
husbandry,  and  in  the  construction  of  agricultural  im- 
plements, have  been  generally  adopted.  The  plantations, 
which  are  extensive,  and  carefully  managed  by  regular 
thinning  and  pruning,  consist  mostly  of  beech,  elm,  oak, 
sycamore,  lime,  and  chesnut,  with  larch,  Scotch,  silver, 
and  spruce  firs,  of  all  of  which  many  beautiful  specimens 
are  found.  There  are  quarries  of  valuable  freestone  in 
various  parts  of  the  parish,  which  have  been  wrought 
for  many  generations,  varying  in  colour  from  a  light 
cream  to  a  dark  grey;  and  in  the  hill  of  Priestinch  is  a 
quarry  of  trap,  which  affords  excellent  materials  for  the 
roads.  Limestone  is  also  abundant,  and  of  very  pure 
quality,  better  adapted  for  agricultural  purposes  than 
for  building  ■  it  occurs  in  beds  of  ten  feet  in  thickness, 


generally  at  a  depth  varying  from  15  to  25  feet  below 
the  surface.  There  is  likewise  a  small  mine  of  coal  near 
Priestinch,  of  moderate  quality,  in  working  which  about 
twenty  persons  are  employed. 

Hopetoun  House,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun, 
originally  commenced  after  a  design  by  Sir  William 
Bruce,  in  1696,  and  completed  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  Mr.  Adam,  is  a  spacious  and  handsome  man- 
sion, consisting  of  a  centre  connected  by  colonnades  of 
graceful  curvature,  with  boldly  projecting  wings,  ter- 
minating in  octagonal  turrets  crowned  with  domes. 
Being  seated  on  a  splendid  terrace  overlooking  the  Frith, 
it  forms  a  truly  magnificent  feature  as  seen  from  the 
water.  The  interior  contains  numerous  stately  apart- 
ments, decorated  with  costly  splendour ;  the  library 
contains  an  extensive  and  well  assorted  collection  of 
scarce  and  valuable  books  and  manuscripts,  with  nume- 
rous illuminated  missals  aud  other  conventual  antiqui- 
ties, and  the  picture  gallery  is  rich  in  fine  specimens  of 
the  ancient  masters  of  the  Flemish  and  Italian  schools. 
The  grounds  are  tastefully  laid  out,  embellished  with 
plantations,  and  the  walks  along  the  heights  overlooking 
the  Frith,  command  diversified  prospects  ;  the  eastern 
approach  to  the  mansion  is  through  a  level  esplanade, 
and  the  western  under  a  stately  avenue  of  ancient  elms. 
His  Majesty  George  IV.  visited  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun  at 
this  seat,  on  the  day  of  his  return  from  Scotland,  in 
1822,  and,  after  partaking  of  the  earl's  hospitality, 
embarked  at  Port-Edgar,  for  London.  Binns  House  is 
an  ancient  castellated  mansion,  beautifully  situated  on 
the  western  slope  of  the  hill  of  that  name,  and  sur- 
rounded with  a  park  containing  much  picturesque  and 
romantic  scenery  ;  the  grounds  are  pleasingly  embel- 
lished with  plantations,  interspersed  with  lawns  and 
walks,  and  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  is  a  lofty  circular 
tower  forming  a  conspicuous  landmark.  Duddingston 
House  is  a  modern  mansion  in  the  castellated  style,  situ- 
ated on  an  eminence  in  the  south-east  of  the  parish,  and 
commanding  an  extensive  view.  Midhope  House,  for- 
merly a  seat  of  the  earls  of  Linlithgow,  is  an  ancient 
mansion  still  in  tolerable  preservation,  and  now  occupied 
in  tenements,  to  which  an  old  staircase  of  massive  oak 
affords  access  ;  the  building  consists  of  a  square  em- 
battled tower  with  angular  turrets,  and  above  the  en- 
trance is  a  coronet,  with  the  letters  J.  L. 

The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  engaged  in  agricultural 
pursuits,  and  in  the  quarries  and  mines  ;  and  about 
thirty  persons  are  employed  in  a  salmon  fishery  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Linnmill  burn,  where  several  stake-nets  are 
placed.  The  quantity  of  fish  taken  was  formerly  very 
considerable,  but  is,  within  the  last  few  years,  very 
much  diminished  ;  the  lessee  of  the  fishery  pays  a  rent 
of  £60  per  annum,  and  the  whole  produce  is  estimated 
at  about  £200.  Facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  the  turnpike-road  from  Queensferry  to  Linlithgow  ; 
the  Union  canal  intersects  the  southern  portion  of  the 
parish,  and  the  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  railway,  which 
in  some  parts  of  its  course  pursues  a  direction  parallel 
with  the  canal,  frequently  approaches  within  a  few  yards 
of  it.  At  Society,  in  the  parish,  is  a  small  bay,  where 
some  vessels  with  coal  land  their  cargoes  on  the  beach, 
and  occasionally  take  back  lime ;  there  are  two  corn- 
mills  propelled  by  water,  and  a  saw-mill  has  lately  been 
built  by  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun,  on  the  Nethermill  burn. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs   of  the  parish    are  under  the 


ABER 


ABEIl 


superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Linlithgow  and 
synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  minister's  sti- 
pend is  £188.  15.  2.,  with  a  manse,  and  the  glebe  is  va- 
lued at  £16  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun. 
The  church,  a  very  ancient  building,  was  enlarged  at 
the  time  of  the  Reformation  ;  it  is  an  irregular  building, 
previously  affording  very  indifferent  accommodation, 
but  in  1838  was  thoroughly  repaired.  There  is  a  place 
of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  The  pa- 
rochial school  is  well  conducted  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  about  £40  per  annum.  A  parochial  library  was 
established  in  1833,  but  was  superseded  in  1844  by  a 
parish  church  library,  which  now  contains  upwards  of 
300  volumes. 

ABERCROMBIE,  or  St.  Monan's,  a  parish,  in  the 
district  of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of  Fife,  2  miles  (W. 
by  S.)  from  Pittenweem  ;  containing  1157  inhabitants, 
of  whom  1029  are  in  the  town  of  St.  Monan's.  This 
place,  which  appears  to  have  been  a  distinct  parish  since 
the  middle  of  the  12th  century,  is  in  ancient  documents 
invariably  called  Abercrombie,  or  Abercrumbin  ;  but, 
towards  the  close  of  the  year  1647,  on  the  annexation 
of  the  barony  of  St.  Monan's,  previously  in  the  adjoin- 
ing parish  of  Kilconquhar,  it  obtained  the  latter  appella- 
tion, by  which,  till  within  the  last  thirty  years,  it  was 
generally  designated.  The  parish  is  bounded  on  the 
south  by  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  is  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  and  a  mile  in 
breadth,  from  east  to  west ;  the  surface  rises  abruptly 
from  the  coast  to  the  higher  lands,  which  are  agreeably 
undulated,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  parish  is 
enriched  and  varied  with  thriving  plantations.  A  small 
rivulet  called  the  Inweary,  rising  in  the  marshy  lands  of 
Kilconquhar,  intersects  the  parish,  and,  after  a  course  of 
nearly  two  miles,  falls  into  the  Frith  near  the  church  ; 
and  in  the  north-east,  the  burn  of  Dree],  after  traversing 
that  portion  of  the  parish,  falls  also  into  the  river  Forth 
at  Anstruther  Wester.  The  soil  is  mostly  a  light  and 
friable  loam,  partly  intermixed  with  clay,  and  generally 
very  fertile;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  improved 
state,  and  the  crops  are  oats,  barley,  wheat,  beans,  pota- 
toes, and  turnips.  There  is  comparatively  little  land  in 
pasture.  The  substratum  is  chiefly  sandstone  and  lime- 
stone, with  some  till,  of  which  the  rocks  on  the  coast 
principally  consist;  ironstone  is  found  in  great  abun- 
dance on  the  beach,  and  coal  in  various  parts  of  the 
parish.  In  the  barony  of  St.  Monan's  are  not  less  than 
six  seams  of  coal,  of  different  thickness,  varying  from 
one  foot  and  a  half  to  eighteen  feet,  which  were  formerly 
worked  to  the  depth  of  nearly  thirty  fathoms;  but, 
from  want  of  capital,  they  have  been  for  some  time  dis- 
continued. There  are  also  several  seams  in  the  lands 
of  Abercrombie,  which  have  never  been  wrought.  The 
limestone  is  of  excellent  quality  ;  but  the  depth  from 
the  surface  rendered  the  working  of  it  unprofitable,  and 
since  the  coal-works  have  been  discontinued,  the  quar- 
ries have  been  altogether  abandoned  ;  the  want  of  it  is, 
however,  supplied  by  the  great  quantities  of  sea-weed 
thrown  upon  the  shore,  which  is  carefully  collected  for 
manure.  The  ironstone  is  chiefly  obtained  in  nodules 
of  from  one  to  two  pounds  in  weight ;  it  is  found  to 
contain  from  twelve  to  eighteen  hundred  weight  in  the 
ton,  and  considerable  quantities  are  sent  away  as  ballast 
by  shipmasters.  Freestone  is  also  found. 
5 


The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  the  presbytery  of  St.  Andrew's  and  synod  of 
Fife;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  stipend  of  the  incum- 
bent amounts  to  £162.  0.  11.,  of  which  about  a  fifth  is 
received  from  the  exchequer ;  the  manse  was  rebuilt  in 
1796,  and  enlarged  in  1819,  and  the  glebe  comprises 
nearly  10  Scottish  acres  of  good  land.  The  church, 
formerly  the  chapel  of  St.  Monan,  is  said  to  have  been 
originally  founded  by  David  II.,  about  the  year  1370, 
and  by  him  dedicated  to  St.  Monan,  the  tutelar  saint  of 
the  place,  in  gratitude  for  the  deliverance  of  his  queen 
and  himself  from  shipwreck  on  this  part  of  the  coast ; 
it  is  a  beautiful  specimen  of  the  English  style  prevailing 
at  that  period,  and  is  a  cruciform  structure,  with  a  square 
tower  rising  from  the  centre,  surmounted  by  an  octa- 
gonal spire.  The  nave  had  become  a  complete  ruin,  and 
had  been  altogether  removed ;  the  transepts  were  roof- 
less and  dilapidated,  and  the  choir,  the  only  portion, 
except  the  tower,  which  remained  entire,  was  for  many 
years  used  as  the  parish  church;  but  in  1828,  the  build- 
ing was  restored,  with  the  exception  of  the  nave  ;  the 
walls  of  the  transepts  were  raised  to  a  height  equal  to 
that  of  the  choir,  and  the  whole  now  forms  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  edifices  in  the  country,  adapted  for  a 
congregation  of  530  persons.  The  parochial  school  is 
under  good  regulation ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34.  4.  5.,  and  fees   £34,  with  a  house  and  garden. 

At  the  north-east  end  of  the  parish,  near  the  lands  of 
Balcaskie,  are  remains  of  the  ancient  church  of  Aber- 
crombie, which,  after  the  annexation  of  the  barony  of 
St.  Monan's,  was  abandoned  as  a  place  of  worship;  they 
are  situated  in  a  secluded  and  romantic  spot,  formerly  the 
churchyard,  and  still  the  burying-place  of  the  Anstruther 
family,  and  of  others.  There  are  also  some  remains  of 
the  old  mansion-house  of  Newark,  the  ancient  residence 
of  the  family  of  the  Sandilands,  lords  of  the  barony, 
consisting  of  three  stories;  the  northern  part  is  still  in 
tolerable  repair,  but  the  other  portion  is  roofless  and 
much  dilapidated.  The  ground-floor  contains  several 
apartments  with  vaulted  roofs,  and  the  upper  stories 
had,  till  lately,  some  comfortable  rooms  occupied  by 
servants  belonging  to  the  farm.  The  building  is  so  near 
a  lofty  rock  rising  precipitously  from  the  sea-shore,  that 
there  is  scarcely  room  for  a  person  to  pass  between  the 
cliff  and  the  southern  gable.  Lieut.-General  Sir  David 
Leslie,  son  of  Lord  Lindores,  resided  at  Newark,  which 
he  had  purchased  from  the  Sandiland  family,  and  was 
created  Lord  Newark  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II. ;  he 
distinguished  himself  greatly  in  the  civil  wars,  and  was 
interred  at  this  place. — See  Monan's,  St. 

ABERDALGIE  and  DUPPLIN,  a  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Perth,  3  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Perth  ;  contain- 
ing 360  inhabitants.  These  two  ancient  parishes  were 
united  in  the  year  1618,  and  are  beautifully  situated  on 
an  eminence  forming  the  northern  boundary  of  the  vale 
of  Strathearn  ;  they  measure  about  3  miles  in  length, 
from  east  to  west,  and  2|  miles  in  breadth,  and  comprise 
2900  acres,  of  which  more  than  2000  are  under  tillage, 
and  the  remainder  wood  and  waste.  The  river  Earn 
flows  on  the  south,  and,  with  its  picturesque  windings 
through  the  strath,  and  its  banks,  ornamented  with 
gentlemen's  seats,  good  farm-houses,  and  well-cultivated 
lands,  forms  a  principal  feature  in  the  interesting  sce- 
nery of  the  locality.  In  the  direction  of  the  river,  the 
prospect  is  terminated  by  the  Ochil  hills  ;  and  towards 


ABER 


A  B  E  R 


the  north,  where  the  higher  lands  of  the  parish  gradu- 
ally slope,  appear  the  vales  of  the  Almond,  the  Tay,  and 
Strathmore,  the  richly  diversified  views  being  bounded 
by  the  Grampian  mountains.  The  parish  consists  of 
six  large  farms  and  three  of  smaller  extent,  which  are 
under  the  best  system  of  husbandry,  and  produce  in 
the  northern  district,  where  the  climate  is  sharp  and 
the  soil  cold  and  tilly,  oats,  barley,  peas,  and  beans  ; 
in  the  southern  portion  wheat  is  much  cultivated,  the 
greater  warmth  of  the  sun  and  the  rich  loamy  and 
clayey  soil  favouring  its  growth.  Among  the  many 
improvements  in  agriculture,  wedge-draining  has  been 
of  great  service  on  wet  cold  grounds,  and  is  extensively 
practised ;  and  the  introduction  of  turnip  husbandry, 
and  the  increase  in  the  growth  of  potatoes,  have 
proved  highly  beneficial.  The  prevailing  rock  is  the 
old  red  sandstone,  of  which  there  are  several  quarries. 

Dupplin  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Kinnoull, 
the  sole  heritor,  was  accidentally  burnt  on  the  11th 
of  Sept.,  1827,  and  a  new  edifice  was  erected  on  the 
same  site,  and  completed  about  the  year  1832,  in  the 
Elizabethan  style,  by  the  present  earl,  at  a  cost  of  up- 
wards of  £30,000.  The  wood  on  the  property  is  exceed- 
ingly beautiful,  extending  to  some  hundreds  of  acres, 
and  comprising  sweet  and  horse  chesnuts,  beech,  spruce, 
and  Scotch  fir,  some  of  which  are  of  large  bulk  and 
stature.  The  castle  was  visited  by  Her  Majesty,  during 
her  tour  in  Scotland,  on  the  6th  of  Sept.,  1842;  she 
arrived  here  at  two  o'clock,  and,  after  partaking  of  a 
sumptuous  dejeuner,  received  a  deputation  from  the  city 
of  Perth,  consisting  of  the  lord  provost,  magistrates, 
and  other  authorities,  who  presented  a  loyal  address. 
The  old  road  from  Perth  to  Stirling  passes  through  the 
northern  declivity  of  the  parish,  and  a  new  line  was 
finished  in  1811,  running  along  the  plain  below,  for  the 
commencement  of  which  the  Earl  of  Kinnoull  advanced 
£3000.  On  the  sides,  many  excellent  farm-houses  have 
been  built,  and  it  has  proved  of  great  advantage  to  the 
locality  for  the  conveyance  of  lime  and  other  manures, 
as  well  as  for  the  export  of  general  produce,  consist- 
ing chiefly  of  grain  and  potatoes,  sent  to  Perth  aud 
Newburgh.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Perth 
and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling,  and  in  the  alternate 
patronage  of  the  Crown  and  the  Earl  of  Kinnoull ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £157.  19-  4.,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  of  14  acres,  including  the  site  of  the  manse, 
garden,  &c.  The  present  church  of  Aberdalgie  was 
built  in  1773,  and  under  it  a  vault  was  constructed  for 
the  Hay-Drummond  family,  though  their  ancient  burial- 
place  is  at  the  church  of  Kinnoull :  in  the  churchyard  is 
the  cemetery  of  the  lords  Oliphant,  of  Bachilton,  for 
centuries  the  feudal  lords  of  Aberdalgie,  and  on  the 
outside  is  a  large  stone  with  a  well-executed  figure  of 
a  warrior.  The  foundations  of  the  old  church  of  Dup- 
plin are  still  remaining,  within  an  inclosed  churchyard. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the  ordinary 
branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  a 
house,  and  £14  fees.  The  Earl  of  Kinnoull  takes  the 
title  of  Viscount  Dupplin  from  this  place. 

ABERDARGIE,  a  village,  in  that  part  of  the  parish 
of  Abernethy  which  is  in  the  county  of  Perth,  1  mile 
(W.)  of  Abernethy ;  containing  200  inhabitants.  It 
is  pleasantly  situated,  and  the  road  from  Kinghorn  to 
Perth  passes  through  it :  a  part  of  the  inhabitants,  both 
male  and  female,  are  engaged  in  weaving  linen-yarn. 
6 


SEAL    AND    ARMS. 


Obverse. 


Reverse. 


ABERDEEN,  a  city,  and  sea-port  town,  the  seat  of  a 
university,  the  capital  of  the  county  of  Aberdeen,  and 
the  metropolis  of  the  North  of  Scotland,  109  miles 
(N.  N.  E.)  from  Edinburgh,  and  425  (N.  by  W.)  from 
London  ;  containing,  with  parts  of  the  parishes  of  Old 
Aberdeen  and  Banchory-Devenick,  67-000  inhabitants. 
This  ancient  city,  which  is,  by  some  historians,  identified 
with  the  Devana  of  Ptolemy,  is  supposed  to  have  derived 
its  name,  of  British  origin,  from  its  situation  between  the 
rivers  Dee  and  Don,  near  their  influx  into  the  sea,  and 
from  each  of  which,  previously  to  the  diversion  of  the 
latter  into  its  present  channel,  it  was  nearly  equidistant. 
According  to  tradition,  Gregory  the  Great,  King  of  Scot- 
land, is  said  to  have  made  the  town  a  royal  burgh  ;  but 
little  of  its  authentic  history  is  known  prior  to  the  reign 
of  Malcolm  III. ;  and  the  first  traces  of  its  having  attained 
any  importance,  are  found  in  a  charter  granted  at  Perth, 
by  William  the  Lion,  conferring  on  the  inhabitants  the 
privilege  of  free  trade,  as  fully  as  their  ancestors  had  en- 
joyed that  liberty  in  the  time  of  Malcolm  ;  and  the  same 
monarch,  by  a  second  charter,  dated  28th  of  Aug.,  1179, 
granted  them  exemption  from  tolls  and  customs  in  all 
markets  and  fairs  within  his  kingdom.  About  this  time, 
Esteyn,  one  of  the  Norwegian  kings,  in  a  piratical  ex- 
cursion along  the  British  coast,  landed  at  this  place,  and 
plundered  the  town,  which  had  attained  sufficient  im- 
portance to  attract  the  notice  of  the  sovereign,  who 
erected  for  his  occasional  residence,  when  visiting  here, 
an  edifice  near  the  east  end  of  the  present  Green, 
which  he  afterwards  bestowed  on  the  monks  of  the 
Holy  Trinity,  who  had  recently  been  introduced  into 
Scotland.  William  also  established  an  exchequer  and  a 
mint,  near  the  south  end  of  the  modern  Castle-street, 
where  money  was  coined  during  his  reign.  Alexander 
11.  on  various  occasions  made  protracted  visits  to  the 
town ;  and  about  the  year  1222,  in  company  with 
his  sister,  the  Princess  Isabella,  he  celebrated  the  fes- 
tival of  Christmas  here  ;  and  subsequently  built,  on 
the  site  now  occupied  by  Gordon's  Hospital,  a  convent 
for  Dominican  or  Black  friars.  This  monarch,  by  a 
charter  to  the  burgesses,  confirmed  all  the  privileges 
bestowed  by  his  predecessors,  to  which  he  added  the 
grant  of  a  weekly  market,  and  the  right  of  establishing 
a  merchant  guild.  In  1244,  the  town  was  nearly  de- 
stroyed by  an  accidental  fire,  which  burnt  many  of  the 
houses,  at  that  time  built  chiefly  of  wood ;  and  about 
the  year  1260,  it  suffered  materially  from  a  similar 
calamity.  Alexander  III.,  by  charter  dated  at  Kintore, 
in  1274,  granted  to  the  burgesses  the  privilege  of  an 
annual  fair,  to  continue  for  fourteen  days ;  the  town, 
however,  had    made   but   little  progress  in   commerce, 


ABER 


ABER 


though,  as  a  sea-port,  it  had  obtained  a  l'eputation  for 
the  curing  of  fish,  of  which  its  rivers  and  the  sea 
afforded  ample  supplies  for  the  use  of  the  inhabitants, 
and  also  for  exportation. 

The  town,  after  it  had  recovered  from  the  devastation 
it  had  suffered    from   fire,  was  defended  by  a  strong 
castle,  and  by  gates  at  the  entrances  of  the  principal 
streets ;    and  the    inhabitants,    who   in  every  time  of 
danger  were  distinguished  by  their  undaunted   courage 
in  resisting  the  attacks  of  its   enemies,  in  all  cases  of 
assault   were    headed   by    their    chief  magistrate,  who 
invariably  acted  as  their  captain.     In  the  wars  which, 
after  the  death  of  Alexander  III.,  arose  from  the  dis- 
puted succession  to  the   throne,  the  city  had  its    full 
share  of  vicissitude  and  of  the  troubles  of  that  distracted 
period.     Edward,  King  of  England,  to  whom  the   arbi- 
tration of  that    contest  had    been  referred,  though  he 
appointed  John  Baliol  to   the  Scottish  throne,  yet  con- 
sidered himself  entitled  to  the  sovereignty,  and,  avail- 
ing himself  of  the  internal  hostilities  which  prevailed, 
invaded  Scotland  with  a  powerful  army,  and  made  him- 
self master  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  kingdom  : 
having  dethroned  Baliol,  he  advanced  with  his  forces  to 
Aberdeen,  and,  taking  possession  of  the  castle,  placed 
in    it  an  English  garrison,  which  held  the  town  and 
neighbourhood    in    subjection.       On    the    approach    of 
William  Wallace  to   the  relief  of  the  citizens,  the  En- 
glish, having  reinforced  the  garrison,  plundered  and  set 
fire  to  the  town,  and  embarked  on  board  their  ships. 
Wallace,    after   besieging    the    castle  without  success, 
retreated    to   Angus,    and,    having   sustained    various 
reverses,  was    betrayed    into    the   hands    of    Edward, 
and   conveyed   prisoner   to  London,   where  he   suffered 
death    as    a    traitor ;    and  his    body  being  quartered, 
one  of  his  mangled  quarters  was  exposed  on  the  gate  of 
the  castle  of  the    town,  to  intimidate  his   followers  in 
this  part   of  the  country.     Robert    Bruce,    in    asserting 
his  right  to  the  Scottish  throne,  experienced  many  pri- 
vations,  and   was  reduced   to  the  necessity  of  taking 
refuge,  with  his  wife  and  children,  among  the  mountains 
of  Aberdeenshire  ;   but,  having  mustered  a  considerable 
force,  which  was  augmented  by  the  citizens  of  Aberdeen, 
who   embraced   his   cause,  he   gave  the   English    battle 
near  the  hill  of  Barra,  over  whom,  under  the  command 
of  Comyn,  Earl  of  Buchan,  and  Mowbray,  the  English 
leader,  he  obtained  a  victory.     According  to  Boece,  the 
citizens,  flushed  with  this  success,  returned  to  the  town, 
assaulted  the   castle,   which  they  took   by  storm,  and 
put   the    garrison    to   the   sword ;    and,    to   prevent   its 
falling    again  into  the  hands    of  the    enemy,   they  de- 
molished the  fortifications.     The  English  in  the  vicinity 
assembled  their  forces,  and  assaulted   the  city  ;   but  the 
townsmen,  led  on    by   Fraser,   their  provost,  repulsed 
them  with  considerable  slaughter.     In  reward  of  their 
patriotism  and  valour  on  this  occasion,  the  king  granted 
the   city   new   armorial-bearings,    with    the   motto    Bon 
Accord,  their  watchword  on  that   memorable  occasion ; 
and    after    the    battle   of    Bannockburn,    being    firmly 
seated    on    the    throne,    he    gave    the    citizens    several 
charters,    some    ample    donations     of    lands,    and    the 
forest  of  Stocket,  with  all  the  privileges  attached  to  it, 
reserving   to  himself  only  the  growing  timber,  with  the 
right  of  hunting;   and  in  1319,  honoured  the  town  with 
a  visit.     After  the   death   of   Robert  Bruce,  and  during 
the  minority  of  his  son  David,  a  civil  war  broke  out  in 


the  country ;  and  Edward  III.  of  England,  who,  with 
the  exception  of  Aberdeen,  had  all  the  Scottish  fortresses 
in  his  possession,  invaded  the  kingdom,  to  assert  his 
right  to  the  sovereignty.  While  triumphant  in  the 
southern  districts  of  the  kingdom,  Sir  Thomas  Roscelyn, 
one  of  his  knights,  landed  a  body  of  forces  at  Dunnottar, 
with  which  he  advanced  to  Aberdeen ;  the  citizens, 
taking  arms,  met  the  invaders  on  the  Green,  but  were 
defeated  with  considerable  loss,  though  Roscelyn  fell  in 
the  encounter,  and  the  town  was  given  up  to  plunder, 
and  set  on  fire  by  the  English.  David  II.,  who  during 
these  troubles  had  remained  in  France,  returned  with 
his  queen,  and  having  regained  his  kingdom,  held  his 
first  parliament  in  Aberdeen,  which  he  occasionally 
made  his  residence ;  he  confirmed  to  the  citizens  all  the 
grants  which  his  father  had  conferred,  and  gave  them 
every  assistance  in  rebuilding  their  town,  which  thence 
took  the  appellation  of  New  Aberdeen,  though  of  much 
greater  antiquity  than  the  kirktown  of  Seaton,  since  that 
period  called  Old  Aberdeen. 

After  the  expulsion  of  the  English  from  Scotland, 
Aberdeen  began  to  flourish  as  a  place  of  commerce,  and 
was  represented  in  parliament.  In  a  parliament  held  at 
Edinburgh,  in  1357,  to  concert  measures  for  the  ransom 
of  the  Scottish  king,  who  since  the  battle  of  Neville's 
Cross  had  been  detained  prisoner  in  England,  the 
city  ranked  as  the  fourth  in  the  kingdom,  and  became 
joint  guarantee  for  the  payment  of  the  stipulated  sum. 
The  king,  on  his  return  to  Scotland,  took  up  his  residence 
in  the  town,  which  he  frequently  afterwards  visited, 
and  which,  in  a  subsequent  parliament,  appeared  as  the 
first  city  on  the  roll,  after  Edinburgh.  Robert  II.,  the 
first  of  the  race  of  the  Stuarts,  assembled  a  parliament 
in  the  town,  in  order  to  plan  a  hostile  incursion  into 
England,  and  granted  various  privileges  to  the  city, 
which  was  at  that  time  the  residence  of  several  branches 
of  the  royal  family,  among  whom  were,  the  Princess 
Matilda,  sister  of  King  David,  and  Christian,  sister  of 
King  Robert  Bruce.  The  trade  of  the  port  had  now 
become  considerable,  and  consisted  chiefly  in  wool, 
hides,  tallow,  coarse  woollen-cloths,  cured  salmon  and 
other  fish,  which  were  exported  to  England,  France, 
Holland,  Flanders,  and  Hamburgh,  whence  were  im- 
ported linen,  fine  woollen-cloth,  wines,  oil,  salt,  soap, 
dye-stuffs,  spices,  hardware,  iron,  armour  of  various 
kinds,  malt,  wheat,  and  numerous  other  articles.  Du- 
ring the  regency  of  the  Duke  of  Albany,  in  the  time  of 
Robert  III.,  Donald,  Lord  of  the  Isles,  having  entered 
into  an  alliance  with  England,  asserted  a  claim  to  the 
earldom  of  Ross,  and  raised  an  army  of  10,000  men, 
to  obtain  forcible  possession  of  that  territory  ;  on  which 
occasion  the  citizens  of  Aberdeen,  headed  by  Sir  Ro- 
bert Davidson,  their  provost,  joined  the  forces  under 
tlfe  Earl  of  Mar,  which  had  been  raised  to  oppose  him  ; 
and  encountering  the  army  of  Donald  at  Harlaw,  about 
eighteen  miles  to  the  north  of  the  city,  a  sanguinary  battle 
took  place,  in  which  Sir  Robert  and  many  of  the  citizens 
were  killed.  The  conflict  terminated  with  the  day, 
neither  party  claiming  the  victory,  but  in  the  course  of 
the  night  the  highlanders  retreated  to  the  mountains  ; 
the  provost  was  buried  in  the  church  of  St.  Nicholas, 
near  the  altar  of  St.  Ann,  which  his  father  had  founded  : 
the  standard  borne  by  the  citizens  on  the  occasion 
was  long  preserved  in  the  armoury  of  the  town.  On 
the  release  of  King  James,  son  of  Robert  III.,  who  had 


A  B  E  R 


ABER 


been  kept  as  a  prisoner  in  England  during  the  regency, 
Aberdeen  was  one  of  the  four  cities  which  became  bound 
to  pay  the  English  monarch  £40,000,  for  his  mainte- 
nance and  education  while  in  captivity.  After  the  mur- 
der of  James,  in  the  year  1437,  the  citizens  chose  for 
their  provost,  Sir  Alexander  Irvine,  of  Drum,  whom 
they  invested  with  the  title  of  captain  and  governor  of 
the  city ;  and  in  the  anarchy  which  prevailed  during 
the  minority  of  James  II.,  they  fortified  the  town, 
armed  the  inhabitants,  and  enforced  the  strictest  mili- 
tary discipline.  In  144S,  James  II.  made  his  first  visit 
to  the  city,  and  was  received  with  every  demonstration 
of  loyalty  and  respect ;  and  in  1455,  the  same  marks  of 
attention  were  paid  his  queen. 

Upon  the  death  of  James  III.,  at  the  battle  of  Sau- 
chie-Burn,  in  1488,  an  attempt  was  made  to  rescue  the 
young  prince  from  the  power  of  a  faction  that  had  led 
him  into  rebellion  against  his  father,  James  III.  ;  in 
which  attempt  the  citizens  concurred,  attaching  the 
common  seal  of  the  corporation  to  their  resolutions  to 
that  effect.  About  the  same  time,  Sir  Andrew  Wood, 
admiral  of  Scotland,  endeavoured  to  deprive  them  of 
the  lands  of  Stocket  granted  to  them  by  King  Robert 
Bruce  ;  but,  on  appeal  to  the  sovereign,  their  possession 
was  confirmed  by  a  decree  of  James  IV.,  in  1497-  This 
monarch  frequently  visited  the  city,  and,  on  one  occa- 
sion, remained  here  for  a  considerable  time,  while 
making  arrangements  for  the  establishment  of  a  univer- 
sity, for  which  purpose  he  obtained  from  Pope  Alex- 
ander a  bull  dated  the  6th  of  February,  1494.  Under 
an  apprehension  of  invasion  from  England,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  countenance  afforded  to  Perkin  Warbeck, 
in  the  reign  of  Henry  VII.,  by  the  Scottish  monarch, 
the  citizens  fortified  the  town,  erected  a  blockhouse  near 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  threw  up  a  breastwork  as  an 
additional  defence ;  but  a  treaty  for  peace  rendered 
these  preparations  unnecessary  ;  and  on  the  subsequent 
marriage  of  James  IV.  with  the  Princess  Margaret, 
daughter  of  the  English  monarch,  the  council  sent  a 
deputation  of  the  citizens,  attended  by  a  band  of  min- 
strels, to  congratulate  their  sovereign.  In  1511,  the  queen 
visited  Aberdeen,  where  she  was  received  with  acclama- 
tions of  joy;  and  during  her  stay  the  chief  streets  of 
the  city  were  hung  with  tapestry  and  fancifully  adorned. 
The  inhabitants,  in  1513,  contributed  a  company  of  spear- 
men, and  a  squadron  of  horse,  towards  the  expedition 
of  Flodden  Field,  in  which  the  king,  and  many  of  the 
Scottish  nobility,  were  killed;  and  in  1525,  Alexander 
Seton,  of  Meldrum,  in  resentment  of  a  supposed  affront 
to  his  clan,  entered  the  city  at  night,  with  a  large  party 
of  his  followers,  and  a  battle  ensued,  in  which  eighty  of 
the  citizens,  including  several  of  the  magistrates,  were 
slain.  In  1530,  Lord  Forbes,  of  Castle-Forbes,  who 
had  been  in  the  habit  of  receiving  annually  a  tun  of 
wine,  for  preserving  the  fisheries  of  the  Dee  and  Don, 
provoked  by  the  discontinuance  of  this  present,  in  con- 
sequence of  a  quarrel  between  his  sons  and  the  citizens, 
entered  the  city  with  a  numerous  retinue,  and  a  fierce 
conflict  arose,  which  terminated  in  his  complete  defeat : 
on  his  giving  security,  however,  for  the  future  good 
conduct  of  his  partizans,  the  magistrates  renewed  their 
accustomed  present.  In  1540,  James  V.,  after  the 
melancholy  loss  of  his  two  sons  in  one  day,  visited 
the  city,  attended  by  his  queen  and  court,  to  divert 
his  grief,  and  remained  for  fourteen  days ;  and  the 
8 


citizens  fitted  out  a  ship  of  war,  to  join  the  royal 
squadron  in  the  Frith  of  Forth,  to  convoy  the  king  to 
England,  on  a  visit  to  Henry  VIII.  On  the  invasion  of 
Scotland  by  the  Duke  of  Somerset,  in  1547,  the  citizens 
furnished  a  large  supply  of  men,  to  join  the  queen's 
forces  under  the  Earl  of  Arran,  of  whom  very  few  re- 
turned from  the  fatal  battle  of  Pinkie;  and  in  1552, 
the  earl,  who  had  been  appointed  regent  during  the 
minority  of  Mary,  attended  by  the  queen  dowager, 
visited  the  town,  and  was  hospitably  entertained  by  the 
citizens. 

On  the  introduction  of  the  reformed  religion,  the 
citizens  were  little  disposed  to  receive  it,  and,  at  the 
solicitation  of  Gavin  Dunbar,  Bishop  of  Aberdeen,  in 
1525,  a  manifesto  was  issued  by  the  king,  directing  the 
magistrates  of  Aberdeen  to  enquire  into  the  conduct  of 
those  who  maintained  heretical  opinions  ;  but  it  was 
not  till  1544,  that  any  attention  was  paid  to  that  injunc- 
tion, when  two  of  the  citizens  were  committed  to  prison, 
by  the  Earl  of  Huntly,  then  provost  of  the  city,  till  they 
should  be  brought  to  trial.  In  1559,  on  the  approach 
of  a  body  of  Reformers  called  the  Congregation,  the 
magistrates  took  the  precaution  of  removing  from  the 
church  of  St.  Nicholas  the  sacred  vessels,  and  ornaments, 
with  every  thing  of  value,  which  they  deposited,  with 
the  archives  of  the  town,  in  a  place  of  security.  On  the 
29th  of  December,  in  that  year,  a  large  party  of  Re- 
formers from  Angus  and  Mearns  entered  the  city,  re- 
solved upon  the  destruction  of  the  sacred  edifices,  and 
commenced  an  attack  on  the  spire  of  the  church,  which 
they  attempted  to  pull  down.  But  the  citizens,  flying 
to  arms,  arrested  the  work  of  demolition,  and  it  was 
not  till  the  4th  of  January  following,  that  the  Reform- 
ers ventured  to  renew  their  efforts,  when  they  pro- 
ceeded to  the  monastery  of  the  Black  friars,  in  School- 
hill,  and  the  convent  of  the  Carmelites,  on  the  Green  ; 
and,  having  demolished  those  buildings  and  carried  off 
the  property,  they  advanced  to  the  monastery  of  the 
Grey  friars,  in  Broad-street,  stripped  the  church  of  its 
leaden  roof,  and  were  about  to  demolish  the  building, 
when  the  citizens  again  interposed  and  prevented  further 
injury.  The  citizens,  notwithstanding,  ultimately  em- 
braced the  reformed  religion,  and  in  a  meeting  of  the 
Council,  it  was  resolved  to  demolish  the  monasteries,  to 
convert  the  materials  to  the  public  use,  and  to  sell  the 
silver,  brass,  and  other  ornaments,  which  had  been  re- 
moved from  the  church  of  St.  Nicholas,  and  place  the 
proceeds  in  the  common  fund  of  the  city.  It  was  re- 
solved, also,  to  furnish  forty  men  for  the  service  of  the 
Congregation,  and  to  use  all  their  efforts  for  the  sup- 
pression of  idolatry ;  and  Adam  Heriot,  friar  of  the 
order  of  St.  Augustine,  and  a  brother  of  the  abbey  of 
St.  Andrew,  having  renounced  the  errors  of  popery, 
was  appointed  by  the  General  Assembly  minister  of 
Aberdeen,  which  office  he  held  till  his  death.  In  1562, 
Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  in  her  progress  through  the 
north,  visited  Aberdeen,  where  she  was  hospitably  en- 
tertained, and  during  her  stay  was  waited  upon  by  Lady 
Huntly,  who,  interceding  for  her  son,  Sir  John  Gordon, 
obtained  his  pardon,  on  condition  of  his  confinement  in 
Stirling  Castle,  during  her  majesty's  pleasure.  On  his 
way  to  that  fortress,  however,  he  escaped  from  his 
guards,  and,  returning  to  the  north,  appeared  with  a 
body  of  1000  horse,  and  was  soon  after  joined  by  his 
father,  the  Earl  of  Huntly.     The  queen's  army,  under 


A  B  E  R 


A  B  E  R 


the  command  of  the  Earl  of  Murray,  having  come  from 
Inverness  to  Aberdeen,  marched  against  the  forces  of  the 
Earl  of  Huntly  and  his  son,  over  whom  they  gained  a 
complete  victory  j  the  earl  was  killed,  and  his  two  sons, 
Sir  John  and  Adam  Gordon,  with  many  others,  were 
brought  prisoners  to  Aberdeen,  where  the  former,  two 
days  after  the  battle,  was  beheaded  in  Castle-street. 

In  1581,  James  VI.  paid  a  visit  to  Aberdeen,  on 
which  occasion  the  citizens  presented  him  with  3000 
merks  in  gold,  and  in  1589,  that  monarch,  attended  by 
his  court,  remained  in  Aberdeen  for  some  time,  during 
which  butts  for  the  practice  of  archery  were  erected  on 
Castle-hill,  for  their  amusement :  and  in  the  same  year, 
the  citizens  fitted  out  a  ship  of  war,  to  join  the  squadron 
intended  to  convoy  the  king  and  queen,  on  their  return 
from  Denmark.  In  1592,  the  king  again  visited  the 
city  ;  and,  though  welcomed  by  the  usual  presents,  he 
took  a  bond  from  the  magistrates  that  they  would  not 
confederate  with  the  Earl  of  Huntly,  nor  join  with 
Jesuits,  priests,  or  rebels,  and  that  they  woidd  faith- 
full}'  observe  the  true  doctrines  of  the  reformed  religion. 
On  the  defeat  of  the  royal  forces  in  Banffshire,  in  1594, 
the  king  repaired  to  Aberdeen,  where,  raising  a  body  of 
troops,  he  was  joined  by  Lord  Forbes  and  other  barons, 
against  the  popish  Lords  Errol,  Angus,  Huntly,  and 
others;  and  in  1600,  the  inhabitants  celebrated  the 
escape  of  their  sovereign  from  the  conspiracy  of  the 
Earl  of  Ruthven,  by  a  public  procession,  and  presented 
an  address,  composed  in  Latin  by  the  rector  of  the 
grammar  school,  expressing  their  abhorrence  of  the 
attempt  on  his  life.  In  1617,  after  his  accession  to  the 
throne  of  England,  James  VI.  visited  his  native  country, 
on  which  occasion  the  magistrates  of  the  city  received 
intimation  that  he  would  visit  that  city,  in  his  progress 
through  the  north ;  but  their  expectations  were  not 
fulfilled.  In  1620,  Sir  Thomas  Menzies,  provost  of  the 
city,  was  sent  on  a  mission  to  the  court  of  London,  and 
on  his  introduction,  presented  to  the  king  a  valuable 
pearl  which,  it  is  said,  has  a  place  in  the  imperial  crown 
of  Great  Britain.  The  city  sent  a  deputation  to  express 
to  Charles  I.,  on  his  landing  in  Scotland,  a  testimonial 
of  their  affectionate  loyalty;  at  this  time,  the  solemn 
league  and  covenant,  which  had  obtained  almost  uni- 
versal subscription,  found  but  little  support  in  Aber- 
deen, and  the  citizens,  firmly  attached  to  their  sovereign, 
acquiesced  in  all  his  endeavours  to  establish  episcopacy. 
In  1638,  the  Earl  of  Montrose,  the  Lords  Coupar, 
Forbes,  and  others,  with  the  ministers  of  Irvine  and 
Pitsligo,  appeared  in  the  town,  as  commissioners  from 
the  general  assembly,  and  called  upon  the  citizens  to 
subscribe  the  covenant.  Failing  in  their  object,  they 
took  their  departure,  and  the  assembly  held  a  court  at 
Glasgow,  at  which  they  ordered  the  covenant  to  be  sub- 
scribed, on  pain  of  excommunication,  which  order  was 
generally  obeyed,  and  the  whole  country  became  subject 
to  the  Covenanters,  with  the  exception  of  Aberdeen, 
which,  under  the  influence  of  the  Marquess  of  Huntly,  a 
zealous  adherent  of  the  reigning  monarch,  still  held  out. 
The  citizens,  in  this  state  of  affairs,  placed  the  town  in 
a  posture  of  defence  ;  the  provost,  and  sixteen  of  the 
principal  citizens,  formed  a  council  of  war;  a  vessel 
laden  with  arms  and  warlike  stores,  arrived  in  the  har- 
bour from  England,  and  every  preparation  was  made  to 
resist  an  attack.  The  Earl  of  Montrose,  at  the  head  ot 
an  army  of  Covenanters,  made  his  appearance  in  the 
Vol.  I.— 9 


neighbourhood,  and  advanced  to  the  town  with  a  force 
of  9000  horse  and  foot,  which  he  encamped  in  the  links 
of  Aberdeen  ;  the  Earl  of  Kinghorn,  who  had  been  ap- 
pointed governor  of  the  town,  had  only  a  garrison  of 
1800  for  its  defence.  After  some  time,  the  Earl  of 
Montrose  withdrew  his  army  to  Inverury  ;  but,  again 
encamping  in  the  links,  the  citizens  ultimately  sub- 
scribed the  covenant,  and  four  of  them  were  appointed 
by  Montrose,  as  commissioners  to  the  general  assembly 
at  Edinburgh.  During  the  progress  of  the  civil  war, 
the  town  suffered  materially  from  all  parties,  as  they 
became  successively  predominant,  and  was  exposed  to 
continual  vicissitudes.  The  last  battle  that  occurred 
here,  was  in  1646,  in  which  year  Major  Middleton, 
arriving  in  the  town,  took  the  command  of  the  Cove- 
nanters' army,  against  the  Marquess  of  Huntly  and 
the  Earl  of  Aboyne,  when  it  fell  an  easy  conquest  to  the 
marquess,  who  was,  however,  soon  after  seized  by  the 
Covenanters,  and  sent,  with  many  others,  to  Edinburgh, 
where  he  was  put  to  death.  Charles  II.,  on  his  return 
from  the  continent,  was  received  in  Aberdeen  with 
every  feeling  of  attachment ;  the  keys  were  delivered  to 
him  by  the  provost,  and  he  remained  in  the  town  for 
more  than  a  week.  On  his  restoration  in  1660,  the 
citizens  testified  their  joy  by  a  public  procession,  and 
sent  a  deputation  to  Loudon,  to  present  a  congratulatory 
address. 

In  166S,  the  city  raised  a  corps  of  120  men,  in  aug- 
mentation of  the  militia,  and  on  the  subsequent  accession 
of  James  II.  and  William  III.,  the  inhabitants  duly  tes- 
tified their  loyalty.  The  accession  of  Queen  Anne, 
daughter  of  James  II.,  was  proclaimed  here  with  public 
rejoicings;  and  on  the  union  of  the  two  kingdoms,  in 
1707.  Aberdeen,  in  conjunction  with  the  burghs  of 
Arbroath,  Montrose,  Brechin,  and  Bervie,  sent  a  mem- 
ber to  the  united  parliament.  Soon  after  the  accession 
of  George  I.,  the  Earl  of  Mar,  a  zealous  adherent  of  the 
exiled  family,  assembled  some  forces  at  Braemar,  in  the 
highland  districts  of  Aberdeenshire,  and  proclaimed  the 
Chevalier  de  St.  George,  son  of  James  II.,  sovereign  of 
Britain,  by  the  title  of  James  VIII. ,  and  levied  an  army 
of  10,000  men  for  his  support.  The  magistrates  of 
Aberdeen,  who  were  zealously  attached  to  the  reigning 
family,  put  the  city  into  a  state  of  defence ;  but  the 
partizans  of  the  pretender,  having  gained  an  ascendancy, 
assumed  the  civil  government,  and  the  earl-marischal, 
arriving  soon  after  w7ith  a  squadron  of  horse,  proclaimed 
the  pretender  at  the  Cross,  on  the  day  for  the  election 
of  the  city  officers.  The  magistrates  and  council  ab- 
sented themselves,  without  making  any  election  for  the 
ensuing  year ;  and  on  the  day  following,  the  earl 
marischal,  in  the  East  church,  chose  such  of  the  bur- 
gesses as  were  favourable  to  his  cause,  and  formed  an 
administration  for  the  government  of  the  city.  The  earl 
levied  an  imposition  of  £200,  for  the  use  of  the  preten- 
der's army,  and  £2000  as  a  loan,  which,  with  other 
supplies,  were  sent  to  his  head-quarters  at  Perth.  The 
pretender  soon  afterwards  arriving,  with  a  retinue  of 
six  gentlemen,  from  France,  landed  at  Peterhead,  and 
passed  incognito  through  Aberdeen  to  Fetteresso,  on  his 
way  to  Perth,  where  he  was  received  by  the  Earl  of  Mar 
and  the  earl-marischal  ;  and  the  professors  of  Maris- 
chal and  King's  Colleges  waited  upon  him  at  Fetteresso, 
with  an  address  of  congratulation.  The  royal  army, 
however,  under  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  was  every  day  in- 

C 


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A  B  E  R 


creasing  in  numbers,  while  that  of  the  pretender  was 
rapidly  diminishing,  and  was  eventually  dispersed  ; 
the  administration  of  the  city  returned  into  its  proper 
channel,  and  the  election  of  the  magistrates,  which  had 
been  interrupted  by  this  rash  adventure,  was  made  as 
usual.  In  1716,  a  fire  broke  out  at  the  Gallowgate, 
which  rapidly  extended  itself  to  other  parts  of  the  town  ; 
many  houses  were  destroyed,  and  the  council  made  a 
liberal  contribution  for  the  relief  of  the  sufferers.  This 
calamity  was  soon  after  followed  by  apprehensions  of  a 
famine,  from  a  continued  state  of  unfavourable  weather ; 
to  counteract  this  evil,  the  magistrates  and  council, 
with  the  neighbouring  gentry,  supplied  the  town  with 
4000  bolls  of  meal,  and  imported  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  grain  from  Holland.  In  1741,  a  fire  broke  out  in 
Broad-street  which  destroyed  many  houses,  at  that 
time  chiefly  built  of  wood  ;  and  an  act  of  council  was 
soon  afterwards  passed,  enjoining  that  the  outer  walls  of 
all  houses  should  be  in  future  built  of  stone,  and  the 
city  consequently  began  to  assume  a  more  regular  and 
handsome  appearance. 

On  the  landing  of  Charles  Edward,  eldest  son  of  the 
pretender,  in  1745,  the  citizens  firmly  maintained  their 
allegiance  to  the  reigning  family,  and  General  Cope 
embarked  his  forces  at  this  place,  previously  to  the 
battle  of  Prestonpans.  Hamilton,  an  exceedingly  zea- 
lous partizan  of  the  adventurer,  marched  to  Aberdeen, 
with  a  detachment  of  the  rebel  army,  on  the  day  of  election 
of  the  town  magistrates,  and  proclaimed  Prince  Charles 
regent  of  the  kingdom  ;  he  compelled  the  magistrates 
to  attend  him,  and  liberated  the  prisoners  in  the  gaol. 
In  November,  Lord  Lewis  Gordon,  who  had  been  ap- 
pointed by  the  pretender,  lord  lieutenant  of  the  coun- 
ties of  Aberdeen  and  Banff,  made  his  appearance  in  the 
city,  summoned  the  magistrates  to  attend  him  at  the 
town-house,  and  completed  the  election  which  had  been 
suspended  on  the  arrival  of  Hamilton ;  he  appointed 
magistrates  whom  he  thought  likely  to  promote  his 
views,  but  they  all  refused  to  act ;  and  made  his  deputy 
lieutenant-governor  of  the  town.  Soon  afterwards, 
Lord  John  Drummond  arrived  in  the  city,  as  com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  forces  of  his  Most  Christian 
Majesty,  and  published  a  manifesto  at  the  market-cross, 
calling  on  the  citizens  for  their  support ;  but  it  received 
little  attention.  In  the  mean  time,  the  Earl  of  Loudon, 
commander-in-chief  of  the  royal  forces,  having  assem- 
bled an  army  of  Highlanders,  consisting  of  the  clans  of 
the  M'Leods,  Monroes,  Sutherlands,  and  others,  ad- 
vanced to  Aberdeen,  to  deliver  the  city  from  the  posses- 
sion of  the  rebels  ;  but  Gordon,  who  had  gone  out  to  in- 
tercept them,  meeting  with  some  success,  returned  to 
Aberdeen  with  several  prisoners,  among  whom  was  the 
principal  of  Marischal  College,  and  levied  a  contribution 
of  £1000  for  the  maintenance  of  the  rebel  army.  On 
the  8th  of  February,  1746,  a  party  of  the  rebels,  flying 
from  before  the  army  under  the  Duke  of  Cumberland, 
arrived  in  the  city,  but  were  soon  followed  by  the  whole 
of  the  royal  forces,  who  were  cantoned  in  the  town,  in 
Old  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  neighbouring  villages  ;  and  on 
the  27th,  the  duke,  with  his  entire  staff,  and  a  com- 
pany of  dragoons,  made  his  appearance  here,  and  was 
congratulated  by  the  provost  and  magistrates  on  his 
success.  The  army  remained  in  their  quarters  till  the 
beginning  of  April,  and  upon  their  departure,  the  city 
was  protected  by  a  garrison,  and  the  newly-erected 
10 


buildings  of  Gordon  Hospital  were  occupied  as  a  tempo- 
rary fort ;  after  the  battle  of  Culloden,  the  magistrates 
voted  the  freedom  of  the  city  to  the  Duke  of  Cumber- 
land, which  was  presented  to  him  in  a  box  of  gold.  On 
the  anniversary  of  the  accession  of  George  I.,  some  of 
the  officers  of  the  army  quartered  in  Aberdeen  ordered 
a  general  illumination,  which  not  being  so  fully  complied 
with  as  they  expected,  orders  were  given  to  their  soldiers 
to  break  the  windows  of  the  houses  of  the  inhabitants ; 
on  this  occasion,  the  magistrates  issued  a  warrant  for 
the  apprehension  of  the  officers  who  had  given  those 
orders,  and  committed  them  to  prison,  till  they  gave 
security  for  the  reparation  of  the  damage.  The  coro- 
nation of  George  III.  was  celebrated  here  with  great 
rejoicings,  and  soon  after  the  commencement  of  the 
American  war,  the  city  raised  a  corps  of  500  volunteers 
for  the  defence  of  the  town  and  port,  and  offered  to  pro- 
vide a  regiment  for  the  service  of  government  ;  in  1781, 
it  fitted  out  three  privateers,  two  of  which  were  cut 
out  of  the  bay  of  Aberdeen,  where  they  were  riding  at 
anchor,  by  the  notorious  Captain  Fall,  under  the  guns  of 
the  newly-erected  battery.  During  the  scarcity  that 
prevailed  in  XJS'i,  the  magistrates  raised  large  sums  of 
money  for  the  alleviation  of  the  sufferings  of  the  poor  ; 
and  in  cases  of  shipwreck,  of  which  many  melancholy 
instances  have  occurred  off  this  part  of  the  coast,  they 
have  always  been  remarkable  for  the  liberality  of  their 
contributions  of  relief.  In  1S09,  from  the  increase  of 
the  trade  and  shipping  of  the  port,  it  was  found  neces- 
sary to  extend  and  improve  the  harbour,  which  was 
shortly  proceeded  with  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  late  Mr.  Telford,  the  eminent  engineer ;  and  sub- 
sequently, many  changes  have  been  made  in  the  build- 
ings and  plan  of  the  city.  New  streets  have  been 
opened  ;  the  public  roads  and  approaches  greatly  im- 
proved; several  handsome  public  buildings  have  been 
erected,  and  the  whole  being  built  of  the  beautiful  spe- 
cies of  granite  peculiar  to  this  part  of  the  country,  the 
city  presents  an  appearance  of  splendour  and  magnifi- 
cence almost  unrivalled,  and  fully  entitling  it  to  the 
appellation  of  the  metropolis  of  the  north. 

The  town,  which,  after  its  restoration  from  the  de- 
vastation it  suffered  during  the  wars  with  England,  ob- 
tained the  appellation  of  New  Aberdeen,  is  situated  on 
slightly  elevated  ground  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river 
Dee,  near  its  influx  into  the  sea,  and  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  Don  ;  it  is  bounded  on 
the  south  by  the  harbour,  and  on  the  east  by  the  Castle- 
hill.  The  more  ancient  part  is  built  on  a  very  unequal 
surface,  consisting  of  several  hills  of  trifling  elevation,  of 
which  the  Castle-hill,  St.  Katharine's-hill,  School-hill, 
Woolman-hill,  and  Port-hill,  are  the  most  prominent. 
At  the  entrances  from  the  suburbs  into  the  principal 
streets,  were  formerly  gates,  of  which  the  chief  were 
Gallowgate,  Justice-port,  Futtie's-port,  Trinity  or  Quay- 
head-port,  Netherkirkgate-port,  and  Upperkirkgate- 
port,  all  of  which  have  been  removed  in  the  various 
improvements  effected  at  different  times.  The  present 
town  is  rather  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  from  the 
barracks  on  the  east,  to  the  extremity  of  Union-street 
on  the  west,  and  about  1500  yards  in  breadth,  from  the 
quays  on  the  south,  to  Love-lane  on  the  north.  The 
more  modern  part,  by  far  the  greater  portion,  consists  of 
spacious  and  well-formed  streets,  of  which  Union-street, 
extending  from    the  west   end   of  Castle-street  to  the 


A  B  ER 


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western  extremity  of  the  town,  is  70  feet  wide,  and  is 
carried  over  the  Denburn  rivulet,  and  the  vale  through 
which  it  flows,  by  a  magnificent  bridge  of  granite.  This 
bridge  consists  of  one  spacious  arch,  1  50  feet  in  span, 
and  50  feet  in  height,  crowned  with  a  parapet  and  cor- 
nice surmounted  by  an  open  balustrade,  and  having  a 
rise  of  29  feet  only  from  the  spring  of  the  arch,  on  the 
west  side  of  which  is  a  dry  arch,  and  on  the  east  two 
dry  arches,  to  raise  the  street  to  a  proper  level.  Two 
streets,  also,  have  been  arched  over  for  the  line  of 
Union-street ;  and  under  the  arches,  carriages  highly 
loaded  can  pass  with  ease.  King-street,  leading  from 
Castle-street  towards  the  north,  is  a  fine  street,  sixty 
feet  in  width ;  and  St.  Nicholas-street,  branching  from 
Union-street  to  the  north,  is  also  a  handsome  and  spa- 
cious street.  During  the  latter  part  of  the  last  century, 
a  number  of  new  streets  were  opened,  of  which  the 
principal  are,  Virginia-street,  Tannery-street,  North- 
street,  Marischal- street,  Belmont,  Queen,  James,  Car- 
melite, George,  and  St.  Andrew's  streets  ;  and  since  the 
commencement  of  the  present  century,  the  area  of  the 
town  has  been  at  least  doubled.  The  houses,  built  of 
fine  granite,  with  which  the  neighbourhood  abounds, 
have  a  splendid  appearance;  and  the  city  generally,  from 
the  style  and  character  of  its  buildings,  has  a  command- 
ing aspect.  The  town  was  at  first  lighted  with  gas  ex- 
tracted from  oil,  by  a  company  established  in  1S24  ;  but, 
finding  it  an  unprofitable  undertaking,  they  afterwards 
had  recourse  to  coal-gas,  in  the  production  of  which  the 
best  parrot  coal  is  used  in  the  works,  which  are  exten- 
sive, and  conveniently  situated  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
town ;  and  the  streets  are  now  brilliantly  lighted  with 
gas,  carefully  purified,  and  conducted  by  cast-iron  pipes, 
of  which  the  aggregate  length  exceeds  48  miles.  The 
inhabitants  were  originally  supplied  with  water  from 
wells  sunk  in  various  parts  of  the  town,  and  from  a  cis- 
tern in  Broad-street,  containing  more  than  30,000  gal- 
lons ;  but  the  quantity  being  found  inadequate  to  the 
increasing  population,  works  were  constructed  by  com- 
missioners for  bringing  a  supply  from  the  river  Dee, 
and  steam-engines  erected  at  the  north  end  of  the  bridge 
of  Dee,  to  which  the  water  is  conveyed  by  a  tunnel  about 
500  yards  in  length,  into  which  it  enters,  not  directly 
from  the  river,  but  after  passing  through  a  filtering  bed 
of  sand.  The  engines,  of  which  there  are  two,  of  30-horse 
power  each,  can  raise,  in  twenty-four  hours,  a  supply  of 
1,100,000  gallons  of  water,  thence  forced  into  a  cistern 
at  the  west  end  of  Union-place,  which  has  an  elevation 
of  forty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  street,  and  130  feet 
above  that  of  the  engine,  and  from  which  the  water  is 
distributed  through  the  city  by  cast-iron  pipes.  The 
management  of  the  supply  of  water,  and  also  of  the  light- 
ing, watching,  and  cleansing  of  the  streets,  is  vested  in 
the  commissioners  of  police. 

The  approaches  have  been  rendered  commodious,  and 
much  improved  in  appearance ;  the  great  north  road 
from  Stonehaven,  the  road  from  Charlestown  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Dee,  the  road  from  Skene,  and  the 
great  roads  from  the  north  and  north-west,  all  meet  in 
the  centre  of  the  town.  The  bridge  over  the  Dee  was  pro- 
jected in  148S,  by  Bishop  Elphinstone,  who,  dying  before 
any  considerable  progress  was  made  in  its  erection,  left 
a  large  sum  of  money  for  its  completion,  which  was  ap- 
plied to  that  purpose  by  his  successor,  Bishop  Dunbar, 
who,  on  the  opening  of  the  bridge,  in  1518,  made  over 
11 


to  the  magistrates  and  council  ample  funds  for  keeping 
it  in  repair.  It  is  a  handsome  structure  of  seven  arches, 
and  had  a  chapel  at  the  northern  extremity,  dedicated  to 
the  Virgin  Mary,  which  was  destroyed  at  the  Reforma- 
tion, and  at  the  other  end  a  watch-tower,  in  which  the 
citizens  mounted  guard  in  times  of  danger.  The  greater 
portion  of  the  bridge  was  rebuilt  in  1722,  and  about 
four  years  ago  it  was  nearly  doubled  in  width,  at  an 
expense  of  £7000  ;  the  whole  charges  at  each  period 
were  defrayed  from  the  endowment  left  by  the  bishops, 
and  the  funds  are  still  unexhausted.  Lower  down  the 
river,  where  the  banks  are  precipitously  steep,  an  ele- 
gant suspension-bridge  has  been  constructed,  at  an 
expense  of  £8000,  raised  by  subscription,  affording 
facility  of  access  to  the  city  in  that  direction ;  and 
communicating  with  the  city  of  Old  Aberdeen,  is  an 
interesting  and  truly  picturesque  bridge  over  the  Don, 
of  one  lofty  arch,  of  which  the  particulars  are  detailed 
in  the  article  Old  Aberdeen.  In  Castle-street,  to  the 
west  of  the  town-house,  is  the  Cross,  the  pavement 
round  which  was  formerly  used  as  an  exchange,  and 
frequented  by  the  merchants  of  the  city.  This  struc- 
ture, which  was  erected  in  16S6,  to  replace  the  ancient 
cross,  is  of  hexagonal  form,  eighteen  feet  in  height :  the 
faces,  which  are  ten  feet  in  breadth,  are  ornamented 
with  duplicated  Ionic  columns  at  the  angles,  sustaining 
an  entablature  and  cornice,  surmounted  by  a  parapet 
and  an  open  balustrade  ;  and  from  the  centre  of  the 
area,  which  is  twenty-one  feet  in  diameter,  rises  a  lofty 
Corinthian  column,  supporting  a  unicorn  bearing  a  shield 
with  a  lion  rampant.  The  entrance  was  once  by  a  door 
in  the  north  face,  leading  to  a  staircase  forming  an 
ascent  to  the  platform,  from  which  all  public  proclama- 
tions were  read  ;  the  entablature  above  each  of  the  faces 
is  divided  into  two  compartments,  in  the  western  and 
eastern  of  which  are  respectively  the  arms  of  the  town 
and  the  royal  arms  of  Scotland,  and  in  the  others  busts 
of  the  sovereigns  from  James  I.  of  Scotland  to  James  II. 
of  England.  A  few  years  ago  the  cross  was  taken  down, 
and  rebuilt  on  a  site  farther  to  the  east  than  the  former  ; 
but  the  original  structure  was  carefully  preserved,  ex- 
cept that  the  masonry  between  the  supporting  columns 
was  removed,  and  the  lower  part  of  the  fabric  thus 
thrown  upon.  The  Barracks  stand  near  the  site  of  the 
ancient  chapel  of  St.  Ninian,  on  the  Castle-hill,  which, 
together  with  all  the  ground  within  the  ramparts  of  the 
castle,  was  given  to  government  for  that  purpose,  by  the 
magistrates  and  council  of  the  city.  They  were  erected 
in  1/94,  at  an  expense  of  nearly  £18,000,  and  form  a 
handsome  range  of  buildings,  containing,  exclusively  of 
the  officers'  apartments,  accommodation  for  600  men, 
with  guard-room,  chapel,  infirmary,  and  other  requisites, 
and  an  ample  ground  for  parade. 

There  are  several  subscription  libraries,  of  which  the 
principal  are  those  of  Messrs.  Brown  and  Co.,  D. 
Wyllie  and  Son,  and  W.  Russel ;  they  contain  collec- 
tions amounting  in  the  whole  to  about  60,000  volumes, 
and  the  terms  of  subscription  vary  from  15  shillings 
to  £1.  11.  6.  per  annum.  The  Athenaeum,  in  Castle- 
street,  aud  the  Union  Club  News-rooms,  in  Union- 
street,  are  well  supported,  and  amply  supplied  with 
journals  and  periodical  publications.  Card  and  dancing- 
assemblies,  which  are  maintained  by  subscription,  are 
held  regularly  every  month,  during  the  winter  season, 
in  the  spacious'rooms  erected  about  twenty-five  vears  ago. 

C  2 


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The  Theatre,  situated  on  the  west  side  of  Marischal- 
street,  was  built  by  subscription,  in  1795,  at  an  expense 
of  £3000 ;  it  is  a  handsome  structure,  capable  of  seat- 
ing 600  spectators,  and  is  opened  occasionally  by  itine- 
rant companies,  to  whom  it  is  let  by  the  subscribers. 
A  weekly  concert  was,  for  many  years,  conducted  by  a 
proprietary  of  amateur  and  other  subscribers,  and  a 
hall  was  erected  for  its  use,  on  the  east  side  of  Broad- 
street,  but  the  concerts  have  long  been  discontinued. 
A  society  for  the  practice  of  archery  also  once  existed, 
under  the  designation  of  the  "  Bowmen  of  Mar;"  but 
in  a  short  time  it  dwindled  away.  Races  were  formerly 
celebrated  here,  under  the  patronage  of  the  members 
of  the  Northern  Shooting  Club,  who,  in  1790,  voted  a 
piece  of  plate,  of  fifty  guineas  value,  and  the  magis- 
trates also  gave  a  purse  of  thirty  guineas  ;  but  they 
were  soon  discontinued.  After  an  interval  of  twenty 
years,  however,  an  association  of  the  gentry  of  the  coun- 
ties of  Aberdeen,  Banff,  and  Kincardine,  was  formed  for 
their  revival ;  and  an  excellent  course  was  made  on  the 
links  of  Aberdeen,  where  races  took  place  annually  in 
October,  until  1828,  and  continued  for  four  days,  under 
the  superintendence  of  a  president  and  stewards,  chosen 
from  the  association.  At  one  of  the  meetings,  four 
silver  cups,  value  fifty  guineas  each  ;  a  purse  of  sixty 
guineas,  by  subscription  of  the  ladies  ;  an  open  plate  of 
fifty  guineas,  by  the  corporation  of  the  city;  a  silver  cup, 
value  100  guineas,  by  the  members  of  parliament  for  the 
counties  ;  and  an  open  plate  of  fifty  guineas,  by  the  mem- 
bers for  the  boroughs,  were  run  for,  and  spiritedly  con- 
tested. 

The  Mechanics'  Institution  was  commenced  in  1824, 
for  the  improvement  and  instruction  of  its  members,  by 
the  delivery  of  lectures,  at  a  moderate  expense,  on  che- 
mistry, natural  philosophy,  and  other  branches  of 
science ;  but,  in  a  few  years,  it  began  to  languish,  and  in 
1830,  it  was  found  necessary  to  discontinue  the  lec- 
tures. The  library,  however,  which  at  that  time  con- 
tained nearly  1100  volumes  on  practical  science,  induced 
those  of  the  subscribers  who  remained,  to  supply  funds 
for  its  preservation  ;  and  in  1S35,  the  plan  of  the  insti- 
tution was  remodelled  by  the  establishment  of  classes, 
upon  moderate  terms,  in  the  various  branches  of  science 
and  literature,  since  which  it  has  continued  to  flourish. 
The  Society  of  Advocates  was  incorporated  by  royal  char- 
ter, in  1774,  and  in  1799  by  a  more  extensive  charter, 
in  which  they  are  styled  the  "  President  and  Society  of 
Advocates  in  Aberdeen,"  for  the  improvement  of  its 
members  in  their  profession,  and  for  the  establishment 
of  a  fund  for  the  relief  of  their  widows,  orphans,  and 
near  relatives  ;  the  widows  receive  an  allowance  of  £40 
per  annum.  The  society  have  a  valuable  law  library  of 
1 900  volumes,  which  is  open  to  the  use  of  all  its  mem- 
bers ;  and  they  have  lately  erected  a  spacious  building 
in  Union-street,  containing  a  handsome  hall  for  holding 
their  meetings,  a  library,  and  other  apartments.  The 
Medical  Society  was  first  instituted  in  1789,  by  a  small 
number  of  young  practitioners,  for  their  mutual  im- 
provement ;  they  held  their  meetings  in  one  of  the  class- 
rooms of  Marischal  College,  and  subsequently  in  apart- 
ments hired  for  that  purpose,  till,  from  the  increase  of 
their  numbers,  and  the  acquisition  of  sufficient  funds, 
they  erected  the  Medical  Hall  in  King-street,  which  was 
completed  in  1820.  It  contains  a  hall  for  their  public 
meetings,  a  library  of  about  3000  volumes  on  medical 
12 


science,  to  which  the  members  have  free  access,  and  a 
museum,  with  class-rooms  and  other  apartments.  The 
society  consists  of  two  classes  of  members,  one  of  prac- 
titioners resident  in  the  city  and  neighbourhood,  who 
meet  once  in  the  month  for  mutual  communication  ;  and 
the  other  of  students  of  medicine,  who  meet  weekly  for 
the  discussion  of  medical  questions,  and  for  attending 
lectures  on  the  various  branches  of  the  profession. 
Baths  were  opened  a  century  ago  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Denburn  vale,  for  which  there  was  a  commodious 
bathing-house,  with  dressing-rooms  and  every  requi- 
site ;  they  were  amply  supplied  with  pure  spring  water, 
and,  previously  to  the  establishment  of  those  near  the 
sea,  numerously  attended.  The  beach  on  the  sea-coast 
is  a  fine  level  sand,  affording  every  facility  for  bath- 
ing, and  is  much  frequented  during  the  season,  by 
visiters  from  different  parts  of  the  country ;  bathing 
machines  are  in  constant  attendance,  and  on  the  shore 
are  warm  salt-water  baths  fitted  up  with  every  accom- 
modation. The  environs  of  Aberdeen  afford  various 
interesting  walks  and  rides,  through  a  district  abound- 
ing with  romantic  scenery.  A  Golf  Club  was  originally 
established  in  the  vicinity,  by  a  society  of  gentlemen,  in 
1780,  and,  after  its  dissolution  in  the  course  of  a  few 
years,  was  revived  in  1815,  under  the  appellation  of  the 
Aberdeen  Golf  Club  ;  it  is  under  the  direction  of  a  com- 
mittee, consisting  of  a  captain,  secretary,  and  four  coun- 
cillors, chosen  annually  at  the  general  meeting.  The 
members  are  admitted  by  ballot,  on  payment  of  £1.  ]., 
and  an  annual  subscription  of  five  shillings  ;  and  at  the 
annual  meeting,  which  takes  place  in  May,  a  gold  medal 
is  awarded  to  the  most  successful  player.  A  mineral 
spring  called  the  Spa  well  rises  at  the  base  of  Woolman- 
hill,  near  the  site  of  the  Infirmary,  and  was  long  cele- 
brated for  its  efficacy  in  the  cure  of  nephritic  diseases  ; 
it  appears  to  have  been  in  repute  from  a  remote  period, 
and  was  inclosed  with  a  building  ornamented  with  por- 
traits of  six  of  the  Apostles.  In  1516,  it  attracted  the 
notice  of  Mr.  William  Barclay,  an  eminent  physician, 
who  analyzed  the  water,  which  he  found  to  contain  car- 
bonate of  iron  and  vitriol.  The  building  having  fallen 
into  dilapidation,  was  restored  by  George  Jamieson,  the 
celebrated  painter,  but  was  afterwards  destroyed  by  an 
inundation  of  the  Denburn  rivulet,  and  the  spring  re- 
mained concealed  under  the  ruins  of  the  building,  till 
1670,  when  it  was  discovered,  and  the  present  building 
erected  by  Alexander  Skene,  of  Newtyle,  then  bailie  of 
the  town.  It  was  again  lost  in  1751,  and  subsequently 
discovered  by  Dr.  James  Gordon,  and  long  afterwards 
continued  to  flow  with  its  accustomed  freedom  ;  but, 
from  recent  erections  at  the  infirmary,  in  the  imme- 
diate neighbourhood,  the  water  has  a  third  time  dis- 
appeared. 

The  principal  manufactures  carried  on  in  the  town, 
prior  to  1745,  were,  plaidings,  serge,  coarse  woollen- 
stuffs,  and  knit  stockings,  of  which  last,  great  quantities 
were  sent  to  Holland  and  Germany  ;  and  to  such  per- 
fection were  the  stockings  made  here  brought,  that  those 
of  the  finest  wool  were  sold  at  from  two  to  five  guineas 
per  pair.  The  manufacture  of  coarse  woollen-cloth  was 
also  introduced  about  this  period,  but,  after  languishing 
for  a  time,  was  abandoned,  towards  the  close  of  the 
century.  The  Linen  manufacture  was  originally  intro- 
duced in  1749,  by  a  company  from  Edinburgh,  for  the 
spinning  of  flax,  the  making  of  thread,  and  the  weaving 


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and  bleaching  of  cloth,  all  of  which  were  soon  brought 
to  a  considerable  degree  of  perfection.  An  extensive 
mill  for  spinning  flax  was  erected  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  river  Don,  in  179S,  and  also  works  for  bleaching 
yarn  and  cloth  ;  another  was  soon  after  erected  at  Broad- 
ford,  near  the  town,  of  which  the  machinery  was  driven 
by  steam  ;  and  there  are  now  three  extensive  establish- 
ments for  the  manufacture  of  linen,  of  every  quality, 
from  the  coarsest  Osnaburghs  to  the  finest  shirting, 
and  for  the  making  of  thread  of  every  degree  of  fineness. 
The  manufacture  of  sail-cloth  is  also  carried  on,  and 
likewise  that  of  brown  sheeting,  of  which  large  quanti- 
ties are  sent  to  the  East  Indies  and  America  :  tape  is 
woven  to  a  large  extent,  by  the  Aberdeen  Tape  Com- 
pany. The  number  of  persons  employed  in  the  flax 
manufacture  is  about  3000,  of  whom  about  one-half  are 
females.  The  Cotton  manufacture  was  introduced  in 
1779,  by  Messrs.  Gordon,  Barron,  and  Company,  who 
established  a  spacious  bleaching  and  printing  field  at 
Woodside,  where  they  also  erected  a  large  mill  for 
spinning  cotton-yarn,  and  weaving  by  machinery  put  in 
motion  by  the  river  Don  ;  another  mill  was  soon  after- 
wards established  by  Messrs.  Forbes,  Low,  and  Com- 
pany, on  the  south  side  of  the  Denburn  rivulet,  the 
machinery  of  which  is  propelled  by  steam.  There  are 
now  four  establishments  in  the  cotton  trade,  producing 
every  variety  of  cotton  goods,  and  in  one  of  them,  thread, 
equal  in  quality  and  fineness  to  that  of  flax,  is  made  in 
large  quantities,  and  of  all  colours ;  the  number  of 
persons  employed  in  the  trade  is  about  4000,  of  whom 
a  considerable  number  are  females  and  children.  The 
Woollen  manufacture  was  introduced  in  1789,  by  Mr. 
Charles  Baird,  who  brought  from  England  some  card- 
ing-engines  and  spinning-jennies,  with  other  apparatus, 
and  erected  a  mill  at  Stoneywood,  for  the  manufacture 
of  plaiding,  serge,  and  the  coarser  woollen-cloths,  by 
the  aid  of  machinery.  Several  other  factories  were 
soon  afterwards  established,  and  the  Messrs.  Haddens, 
who  had  been  long  engaged  in  the  stocking  trade, 
created  extensive  works  on  the  Green,  in  which  they 
employed  the  most  improved  machinery,  propelled  by 
powerful  steam-engines.  The  manufacture  of  carpets  is 
also  carried  on  with  success.  The  number  of  persons 
employed  in  the  woollen  trade  is  about  2500. 

The  manufacture  of  Paper  was  first  introduced  in 
17*0.  at  Peterculter,  in  the  vicinity  of  Aberdeen,  where 
the  business  is  still  pursued ;  and  several  mills  were 
subsequently  established,  of  which  the  only  one  now 
left  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  Don,  for  making 
all  the  various  kinds  of  paper,  which,  previously  to  the 
establishment  of  these  works,  was  imported  from  Hol- 
land :  the  number  of  persons  employed  in  the  trade 
is  about  400.  The  manufacture  of  Combs,  which  had 
been  introduced  in  178S,  and  carried  onto  a  very  mode- 
rate extent,  was,  in  1S30,  commenced  upon  a  greatly  en- 
larged scale,  by  Messrs.  Stewart,  Rowell,  and  Company, 
who  first  employed  steam-power  in  the  manufacture, 
and  introduced  other  improvements  by  which  the  articles 
can  now  be  produced  almost  at  a  sixth  part  of  the 
former  cost.  In  this  concern,  about  '250  persons  are 
employed,  and  the  number  of  combs  of  all  kinds  made 
is  about  43,000  weekly.  The  Iron  manufacture  is  also 
very  extensive;  there  are  not  less  than  eight  foundries 
at  present  in  active  operation,  in  which  the  largest  cast- 
ings, and  the  heaviest  articles,  are  produced,  and  nume- 


rous establishments  are  carried  on  for  the  manufacture 
of  machinery  of  all  kinds,  five  of  which  are  engaged  in 
the  making  of  steam-engines.  Iron  boats  are  con- 
structed in  considerable  numbers,  and  an  iron  vessel  of 
550  tons'  burthen  has  lately  been  launched  from  the 
docks  ;  there  are  also  several  establishments  for  the 
manufacture  of  chains  and  chain-cables,  and  of  boilers 
for  steam-engines.  Above  1000  persons  are  generally 
employed  in  the  iron  trade.  There  are  several  Rope 
walks  of  large  extent,  for  the  supply  of  the  shipping  of 
the  port,  and  others  on  a  smaller  scale,  for  the  making 
of  cord  and  twine  for  various  uses,  and  to  a  great  ex- 
tent for  the  making  of  fishing-nets  ;  the  number  of 
persons  in  these  works  is  about  200.  Some  breweries  are 
conducted  on  an  extensive  plan,  from  which  considera- 
ble quantities  of  ale  and  porter  are  sent  to  London  and 
other  places,  where  they  find  a  ready  market,  and  also 
several  upon  a  smaller  scale,  for  the  supply  of  the  town 
and  neighbourhood.  There  are  likewise  tanneries  in 
operation  here.  The  present  extensive  trade  in  Granite 
appears  to  have  originated  with  the  Messrs.  Adam, 
architects,  of  London,  who,  having  entered  into  a  con- 
tract for  paving  the  metropolis,  in  1764,  commenced 
some  quarries  in  the  rocks  on  the  sea-coast,  near  the 
lands  of  Torrie,  and  brought  the  stone,  when  prepared, 
to  London  ;  but,  finding  this  mode  of  supply  too  ex- 
pensive, they  employed  the  Aberdeen  masons  to  furnish 
them  with  stone,  and,  in  a  short  time,  a  very  extensive 
trade  was  established,  not  only  in  paving-stones,  but  in 
large  blocks  of  granite  for  public  buildings  and  works  of 
great  magnitude.  Many  of  the  largest  blocks  were  sent 
to  Sheerness,  for  the  construction  of  the  docks  at  that 
place,  and  to  London,  for  the  erection  of  bridges  over 
the  Thames,  and  the  foundation  of  the  new  houses  of 
parliament.  The  granite,  which  is  extremely  hard,  and 
of  great  beauty  when  polished,  has  lately  been  brought 
into  extensive  use  for  chimney-pieces,  vases,  pedestals, 
and  other  ornamental  works,  by  the  application  of  ma- 
chinery to  the  purpose  of  polishing  it,  by  which  the  ex- 
pense is  reduced  to  about  one-third  of  that  by  hand 
labour.  The  quantity  of  granite  exported  in  1S44,  ex- 
ceeded 27,400  tons. 

The  port  carries  on  an  extensive  trade  with  Russia, 
Sweden,  Denmark,  Poland,  Prussia,  Germany,  Holland, 
Spain,  Portugal,  and  with  the  West  Indies  and  America  ; 
the  chief  exports  are,  oatmeal,  grain,  butter,  eggs,  sal- 
mon, porter  and  ale,  cattle,  sheep,  pigs,  linen,  cotton 
and  woollen  manufactured  goods,  and  granite ;  the 
chief  imports  are,  coal,  lime,  flax,  cotton,  hemp,  wool, 
iron,  salt,  timber,  whalebone,  'wheat,  and  flour.  The 
number  of  vessels  registered  as  belonging  to  the  port, 
in  1844,  was  206,  of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  38,000 
tons.  The  tonnage  of  the  several  vessels  which  entered 
the  port  in  1844,  was  289,4S3,  of  which  257,703  be- 
longed to  Aberdeen,  27,540  to  other  British  ports,  and 
4240  to  foreign  ports  ;  and  the  amount  of  duties  paid  at 
the  custom-house  was  £76,259.  The  harbour  was,  for 
many  years,  an  open  basin,  with  an  island  in  the  centre 
called  the  Inches,  which  separated  the  channel  of  the 
river  from  the  harbour,  on  the  north  side  of  it ;  and  the 
only  building  was  the  Quay-head,  which,  having  become 
ruinous,  was  repaired  in  14S4,  and  rebuilt  in  1527,  with 
stone  brought  from  Dundee.  A  pier  was  built  in  1607, 
which,  in  1623,  was  extended  from  the  quay-head  towards 
the  fishing  village  of  Futtie,  by  which  means  a  consider-. 


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able  portion  of  land  was  gained  from  the  basin,  and 
which  now  forms  part  of  the  town.  In  1755,  the  magis- 
trates and  council  engaged  Mr.  John  Smeaton,  an  emi- 
nent engineer,  to  improve  the  harbour;  and  in  1/70,  he 
proposed  a  stone  pier  on  the  north  side  of  the  en- 
trance, which,  confining  the  stream  of  the  river  within 
narrow  limits,  would  remove  a  bank  of  sand  accu- 
mulated there.  In  1773,  an  act  of  parliament  was 
obtained,  and  the  improvements  on  Mr.  Smeaton's 
plan  were  carried  into  full  operation,  at  a  cost  of 
£18,000.  This  pier  was  1200  feet  in  length,  20  feet 
broad  at  the  base,  12  on  the  summit,  and  16  feet  in 
height  at  the  western  extremity,  and  gradually  increased 
towards  the  east  where  it  was  36  feet  broad  at  the  base, 
24  on  the  summit,  and  30  feet  high ;  it  was  faced  with 
blocks  of  granite,  many  of  which  weighed  more  than 
three  tons  each.  The  pier,  however,  by  a  deviation  from 
Mr.  Smeaton's  original  plan,  being  erected  too  far  to- 
wards the  north,  a  great  swell  was  occasioned  in  the 
harbour  at  high  water,  to  remedy  which,  a  breakwater 
was  projected  from  the  west  end  of  it,  towards  the  chan- 
nel of  the  river,  with  complete  effect.  The  harbour  was 
further  improved  by  Mr.  Telford,  who,  in  1810,  extended 
the  original  pier  900  feet  further  towards  the  east, 
where  it  terminated  in  a  circular  head,  60  feet  in  dia- 
meter, which  was  destroyed  by  the  sea  in  the  following 
winter,  and  rebuilt  with  a  slope  towards  the  sea.  A 
breakwater  800  feet  in  length  was  also  erected,  on  the 
south  side,  by  which  the  harbour  was  protected  from  the 
south-east  storms,  and  the  depth  of  water  increased  to 
19  feet.  Commodious  wharfs  were  formed  along  the 
harbour,  on  the  south-west  side  of  the  village  of 
Futtie,  and  quays  nearly  4000  feet  in  length  have  been 
constructed  :  the  Inches,  also,  are  now  connected  with 
the  town  by  a  swivel-bridge  opposite  the  end  of 
Marischal-street.  In  1843,  an  act  of  parliament  was 
obtained  for  converting  a  large  part  of  the  harbour  into 
a  wet  dock,  and  operations  for  that  purpose  are  in  pro- 
gress. The  custom-house  situated  on  the  Quay,  is  a 
neat  building  purchased  by  government,  and  fitted  up 
for  the  purpose  ;  the  establishment  consists  of  a  col- 
lector, comptroller,  land  and  tide  surveyors,  four  land- 
waiters,  twenty-eight  tide-waiters,  six  boatmen,  and  other 
officers. 

Ship  building  is  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent ; 
there  are  six  building-yards,  and  a  patent-slip  has  been 
constructed  in  the  harbour,  at  an  expense  of  £3337  ;  in 
1838,  the  number  of  vessels  built  in  these  yards  was 
twenty-three,  and  their  aggregate  burthen  4058  tons. 
Four  steam-packets,  of  which  the  aggregate  burthen  is 
1360  tons,  and  of  SlO-horse  power,  have  long  continued 
to  ply  to  Leith,  Inverness,  Caithness,  Orkney,  and 
Shetland.  In  1827,  a  steam-packet  of  550  tons,  called 
the  Queen  of  Scotland,  began  to  ply  between  Aberdeen 
and  London,  since  which,  others  have  been  added,  which 
sail  weekly  to  London,  and  likewise  one  to  Hull :  these, 
together  with  a  vessel  engaged  in  the  London  and  In- 
verness trade,  belong  to  one  company,  whose  steamers 
are  now  five  in  number,  of  nearly  3900  tons'  burthen, 
and  1420-horse  power.  There  are  also  steamers  to 
Dundee,  and  to  Peterhead,  during  the  summer.  The 
Salmon  fishery  has  been  carried  on  here  from  a  very 
i*emote  period,  and,  from  the  abundance  of  the  sup- 
ply afforded  by  the  rivers  Dee  and  Don,  is  still  con- 
tinued, on  an  extensive  scale,  affording  employment 
14 


to  about  200  persons.  The  average  number  taken 
in  a  season,  is  20,000  salmon  averaging  ten  pounds 
each,  and  40,000  grilse  of  about  four  pounds  each,  of 
which  by  far  the  greater  portion  is  packed  in  ice, 
and  sent  to  the  London  market.  The  Herring  fishery, 
which  is  of  comparatively  recent  establishment,  at  pre- 
sent employs  about  sixty  boats,  and,  from  the  suc- 
cess with  which  it  is  attended,  has  every  prospect  of 
being  considerably  increased.  The  Whale  fishery  was 
first  introduced  here  in  1753,  and  for  some  time  con- 
tinued to  prosper;  in  1S20,  there  were  fifteen  vessels 
employed  in  the  trade,  each  having  a  crew  of  fifty  men, 
and  in  1823,  the  quantity  of  oil  brought  home  was  1S41 
tons ;  but  from  that  time  the  trade  began  to  decline, 
and  it  is  now  nearly  abandoned.  The  Aberdeen  Canal, 
from  the  harbour  to  the  burgh  of  Inverury,  was  con- 
structed by  a  company  of  £50  shareholders,  who,  in 
1795,  obtained  an  act  of  parliament,  incorporating  them 
under  the  designation  of  the  "  Proprietors  of  the  Aber- 
deenshire Canal  Navigation,"  and  empowering  them  to 
raise  a  capital  of  £20,000,  which,  by  a  subsequent  act, 
in  1801,  was  extended  to  £40,000.  It  was  completed 
at  an  expense  of  £43,895,  and  opened  to  the  public  in 
1807.  The  whole  line,  from  the  quay  at  this  place  to 
Port  Elphinstone,  on  the  river  Don,  at  Inverury,  is  18^ 
miles  in  length ;  the  width  on  the  surface  is  24  feet, 
and  the  average  depth  3f  feet;  it  has  17  locks,  5  aque- 
ducts, and  56  common  bridges,  and  the  highest  summit 
level  is  163  feet  above  low  water  mark.  The  market, 
which  is  amply  supplied  with  corn,  and  with  provisions 
of  all  kinds,  is  on  Friday,  and  on  the  preceding  day  for 
meal ;  the  market  for  fish,  with  which  the  town  is  abun- 
dantly supplied,  is  daily ;  and  fairs  are  held  on  the  last 
Wednesday  in  April,  for  linen  ;  on  the  last  Thursday 
and  Friday  in  June,  and  the  first  Thursday  and  Friday 
in  July,  for  wool ;  and  on  the  last  Wednesday  in  August, 
for  timber.  The  butchers'  market,  on  the  east  side  of 
the  town,  was  erected  by  the  corporation,  in  1S06,  and 
consists  of  two  ranges,  having  in  one  38  stalls  12  feet 
square,  with  a  pavement  4  feet  broad  in  front,  and  in 
the  other  48  stalls,  each  10  feet  square;  and  within  the 
area  are  15  slaughter-houses.  Another  market  for  but- 
chers' meat  was  formed  in  1816,  in  the  Lochlands,  on 
the  north  side  of  the  town,  containing  42  stalls,  13  feet 
long,  and  12  feet  wide,  with  a  pavement  in  front  5  feet 
broad,  and  covered  with  a  roof  supported  on  slender 
cast-iron  pillars.  The  fish  market  is  held  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Shiprow,  and  is  well  arranged  and  fitted  up, 
with  a  view  to  prevent  the  exposure  of  fish  for  sale  in 
Castle-street ;  the  meal,  poultry,  and  fruit  and  vege- 
table markets  are  situated  on  the  west  side  of  King- 
street,  and  are  amply  supplied.  In  the  fruit  market, 
great  quantities  of  strawberries  and  gooseberries,  the 
produce  of  gardens  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town, 
are  exposed  to  sale,  and  frequently  to  the  amount  of 
£1000  annually.  On  the  29th  of  September,  1S40,  the 
foundation  stone  was  laid  of  a  New  Market,  the  prin- 
cipal front  of  which  is  towards  a  street  opened  about 
the  same  time  between  Union-street  and  the  quay.  The 
structure  is  318  feet  in  length,  and  106  feet  in  breadth, 
and  is  divided  into  two  stories,  the  lower  of  which  is 
even  with  the  old  street  called  the  Green,  and  the  upper 
has  three  spacious  and  elegant  entrances  from  Market- 
street.  The  hall,  on  the  level  of  Market-street,  extends 
the  whole  length  of  the    building;    it   is  fifty  feet   in 


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height  and  the  same  in  breadth,  and  towards  its  west 
end,  near  the  top  of  the  flight  of  steps  leading  to  the 
basement  story,  is  a  beautiful  fountain  of  polished  gra- 
nite, the  work  of  Messrs.  Mc  Donald  and  Leslie.  The 
roof  of  the  hall  is  supported  by  fifty-eight  pillars,  and 
between  them  and  the  outer  walls  are  the  galleries, 
twenty-five  feet  broad,  containing  fifty-three  shops  and 
160  yards  of  counter  for  dealers  in  small  wares,  besides 
a  space  of  fifty  by  twenty-eight  feet  at  the  east  end, 
occupied  weekly  as  a  grain  market.  In  the  hall,  under 
the  galleries,  are  fifty-three  shops,  and  in  its  area  benches 
upwards  of  3/0  yards  in  extent  for  gardeners  and  pro- 
vision sellers  j  the  basement  floor  contains  ninety  shops, 
and  forty-three  yards  of  tables  for  fishmongers.  This 
elegant  building  was  designed  by  Mr.  Archibald  Simp- 
son, a  native  of  Aberdeen,  and  in  every  respect  it  does 
the  utmost  credit  to  his  acknowledged  talents  and  good 
taste. 

The  government  of  the  city,  under  a  succession  of 
charters,  from  the  reign  of  William  the  Lion  to  that  of 
Charles  I.,  who  greatly  extended  the  privileges  conferred 
by  his  predecessors,  and  which  have  been  also  con- 
firmed by  subsequent  monarchs,  is  vested  in  a  provost, 
four  bailies,  and  eight  councillors,  assisted  by  a  trea- 
surer, master  of  shore-works,  master  of  kirk  and  bridge 
works,  master  of  the  guild  brethren's  hospital,  mas- 
ter of  mortifications,  and  a  dean  of  guild.  There 
are  seven  incorporated  trades,  viz.,  the  hammermen, 
bakers,  wrights  and  coopers,  tailors,  shoemakers, 
weavers,  and  fieshers.  The  burgesses  are  entitled  to 
numerous  privileges,  among  which  are,  freedom  to 
trade,  and  exemption  from  all  tolls  and  customs  on 
goods  brought  into  the  town  for  their  own  use. 
The  corporation  are  patrons  of  the  city  churches,  and 
of  the  professorships  of  mathematics  and  divinity  in 
Marischal  College,  and  have  the  presentation  to  thirty- 
six  bursaries  in  that  establishment ;  they  are  also  pa- 
trons of  the  grammar-school,  and  various  other  schools, 
and  of  the  charitable  endowments  in  the  city.  The 
burgesses  are  separated  into  two  classes ;  burgesses 
of  guild,  who  are  entitled  to  trade  in  all  branches  of 
merchandise,  but  not  to  exercise  any  craft ;  and  free- 
men of  the  seven  incorporated  trades,  who  have  the  pri- 
vilege of  exercising  their  respective  crafts.  The  fees 
paid  by  strangers  on  becoming  guild  burgesses  are  £35, 
and  by  the  sons  of  burgesses,  £12;  the  fees  paid  by 
strangers  on  becoming  trade  burgesses  are  £11.  12.  2., 
and  by  sons  of  freemen,  10s.  for  the  eldest,  and  £1.  10. 
for  the  younger.  The  jurisdiction  of  the  magistrates 
extends  over  the  whole  of  the  city  and  royalty,  and  they 
hold  a  bailie  court  every  Saturday,  for  civil  actions  to 
any  amount,  in  which  they  are  assisted  by  an  assessor, 
appointed  for  that  purpose,  who  is  generally  an  advo- 
cate of  Aberdeen.  The  sheriff,  however,  exercises  a  con- 
current, jurisdiction  with  the  magistrates,  and  since  the 
establishment  of  the  sheriff's  small-debt  court,  the  civil 
business  of  the  bailie  court  has  been  very  much  dimi- 
nished. The  police  establishment  is  considered  to  be 
fully  sufficient  for  all  purposes  connected  with  its  insti- 
tution, and  is  under  the  controul  of  commissioners 
elected  by  the  nine  wards,  into  which  the  police  dis- 
trict was  divided  by  the  act  of  1S29.  The  city  was 
formerly  the  head  of  a  district,  including  the  burghs 
of  Arbroath,  Montrose,  Brechin,  and  Bervie,  in  con- 
junction with  which  it  returned  one  member  to  the  im- 
15 


perial  parliament.  At  present,  Aberdeen  of  itself  sends 
a  representative  to  the  house  of  commons ;  and  the 
right  of  election,  previously  in  the  magistrates  and 
council,  is,  by  the  Reform  act,  vested  in  the  resident 
£10  householders.  The  annual  value  of  real  property 
in  the  city  assessed  to  the  Income  tax  for  the  year  end- 
ing April,  1843,  was  £96,588  ;  the  amount  for  the  parish 
of  Old  Aberdeen  was  £67,192;  and  the  total  sum  for 
the  county  of  Aberdeen  was  £603,968. 

The  Town  House,  built  at  various  periods,  is  situated 
on  the  north  side  of  Castle-street,  and  has  undergone 
frequent  alterations  ;  in  1750,  the  appearance  of  the 
front  was  greatly  improved.  It  has  five  spacious  and 
handsome  windows,  and  above  the  roof  is  a  tower,  sur- 
mounted by  a  spire  120  feet  in  height.  The  town- 
hall  is  about  47  feet  in  length,  and  29  feet  wide,  and 
is  embellished  with  an  elegant  mantel-piece  of  variegated 
marble,  executed  in  Holland,  above  which  is  a  perspec- 
tive view  of  the  city,  taken  from  the  lands  of  Torrie  ; 
the  walls  are  hung  with  a  full-length  portrait  of  Queen 
Anne,  by  Sir  Godfrey  Kneller,  and  full-length  portraits 
of  the  Earl  and  Countess  Findlater  by  Alexander;  a 
portrait  of  Provost  James  Hadden  by  Pickersgill,  and 
one  of  Provost  James  Blaikie  by  Phillips.  The  hall, 
which  is  appropriated  to  the  meetings  of  the  magis- 
trates and  council,  is,  on  public  occasions,  brilliantly 
lighted  by  three  elegant  cut-glass  chandeliers,  suspended 
from  the  ceiling,  and  by  twelve  sconces  on  the  walls. 
In  the  upper  part  of  the  building,  on  the  west,  is  the 
town  armoury,  in  which  are  deposited  300  muskets,  a 
very  ancient  coat  of  mail,  the  staff  of  the  banner 
borne  by  the  citizens  at  Harlaw,  and  the  furniture  of 
the  provost's  charger,  when  he  attended  the  coronation 
of  Charles  I.  at  Edinburgh.  The  County  Buildings,  in 
Union-street,  erected  in  1S20,  at  the  joint  expense  of 
the  counties  of  Aberdeen  and  Banff,  for  festive  meet- 
ings, at  a  cost  of  £1 1,500,  is  a  handsome  structure  of 
finely-dressed  granite,  in  the  Grecian  style  of  architec- 
ture, with  a  stately  portico  of  the  Ionic  order ;  the 
interior  contains  a  spacious  assembly-room,  richly  deco- 
rated, card,  tea,  and  supper  rooms,  and  various  other 
apartments. 

The  Town  Gaol,  adjoining  the  town-house,  has  been 
considerably  enlarged  ;  above  the  entrance,  is  a  strong 
vaulted  chamber,  in  which  are  deposited  the  records 
and  archives  of  the  town,  the  church  registers,  and 
other  valuable  documents.  The  City  Bridewell  was 
erected  at  an  expense  of  £12,000,  on  a  site  of  two 
Scotch  acres  on  the  confines  of  the  town,  and  was  opened 
in  1809;  it  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  castellated 
style,  surrounded  with  a  wall  fourteen  feet  in  height. 
The  edifice  contains  five  stories,  of  which  part  of  the 
uppermost  is  used  as  an  hospital,  and  the  interior  is 
divided,  throughout  its  whole  length,  by  a  gallery,  on  one 
side  of  which  are  dormitories,  and  on  the  other  cells  for 
labour;  the  whole  number  of  cells  is  109,  each  8  feet 
long,  and  7  feet  wide.  The  building  is  warmed  by- 
steam,  and  lighted  with  gas  ;  and  adjoining  the  rear,  is 
the  governor's  house,  containing  a  committee-room  for 
the  meeting  of  the  magistrates,  a  chapel,  and  apart- 
ments for  a  surgeon,  in  addition  to  the  requisite  accom- 
modations for  the  governor,  matron,  and  other  officers 
necessary  for  the  performance  of  the  various  duties  of 
the  establishment.  The  prisoners  are  employed  in  pro- 
fitable labour. 


A  B  E  R 


A  B  E  R 


TO 

Seal  and  Arms. 


The  university  of  Maris- 
chal  College  was  founded 
in  1593,  under  a  charter  of 
James  VI.,  by  George  Keith, 
filth  earl-marischal  of  Scot- 
land, who  endowed  it  with 
the  church,  conventual  build- 
ings, and  lands  of  the  Fran- 
ciscan monastery,  which  had 
been  presented  to  him  for 
that  purpose,  by  the  magis- 
trates and  council  of  the 
city,  and  with  the  lands, 
tenements,  and  other  property  of  the  Dominican  and 
Carmelite  convents  situated  respectively  on  the  School- 
hill  and  the  Green,  and  which  had  been  demolished 
at  the  Reformation.  The  original  endowment  was 
augmented  by  a  grant  of  £300  per  annum,  by 
William  III.,  payable  out  of  the  bishops'  rents  of 
Aberdeen  and  Moray,  and  by  a  grant  of  £105  per 
annum,  by  Queen  Anne ;  and  it  has  since  been  in- 
creased by  royal  grants,  for  the  foundation  of  additional 
professorships,  and  by  donations  and  bequests  from 
various  individuals,  for  the  foundation  of  bursaries  and 
lectureships.  The  primary  establishment  consisted  of  a 
principal,  three  regents  in  philosophy  and  languages, 
six  bursars,  an  oeconomus,  and  other  officers  ;  but,  as 
at  present  constituted,  the  university  consists  of  a  chan- 
cellor, generally  a  nobleman  of  high  rank,  who  is 
elected  by  the  senatus  academicus,  and  holds  his  office 
for  life  ;  a  rector,  elected  periodically  by  the  suppositi 
of  the  university ;  a  dean  of  faculty,  elected  by  the 
senatus  academicus  and  the  senior  minister  of  Aber- 
deen ;  and  a  principal,  who  is  appointed  by  the  crown. 
There  are  thirteen  professorships,  of  which  the  Greek, 
civil  and  natural  history,  natural  philosophy,  and  moral 
philosophy  and  logic,  were  founded  in  1593,  at  the  ori- 
ginal institution  of  the  university  ;  and  those  of  mathe- 
matics, divinity,  oriental  languages,  church  history, 
humanity,  medicine,  chemistry,  anatomy,  and  surgery, 
at  subsequent  periods.  Of  these  professorships,  that  of 
divinity,  founded  in  1615,  by  Mr.  Patrick  Copland,  a 
dissenting  minister  at  Norton,  in  the  county  of  North- 
ampton, and  that  of  mathematics,  founded  in  1613,  by 
Dr.  Duncan  Liddell,  are  in  the  patronage  of  the  town 
council;  that  of  oriental  languages,  founded  in  1723,  by 
the  Rev.  Gilbert  Ramsay,  rector  of  Christ  Church, 
Barbadoes,  is  in  the  patronage  of  his  descendant,  Sir  A. 
Ramsay,  of  Balmaine  ;  and  all  the  others  are  in  the 
patronage  of  the  crown.  There  are  also  lectureships  on 
practical  religion,  the  evidences  of  Christianity,  Scottish 
law  and  conveyancing,  botany,  materia  medica,  insti- 
tutes of  medicine,  midwifery,  medical  jurisprudence, 
comparative  anatomy,  and  agriculture  ;  the  lectureship 
on  practical  religion  is  in  the  patronage  of  the  trustees 
of  Mr.  Gordon,  of  Murtle  ;  on  Scottish  law  and  con- 
veyancing, in  the  patronage  of  the  Society  of  Advocates  ; 
on  agriculture,  in  that  of  the  magistrates  of  Aberdeen, 
and  all  the  others  in  the  patronage  of  the  college. 
Attached  to  the  university  are  likewise  115  bursaries, 
varying  in  value  from  £5  to  £30  each  per  annum, 
tenable  for  four  years,  and  of  which  more  than  60  are 
open  to  general  competition,  and  36  in  the  patronage  of 
the  town  council ;  the  average  number  of  students  is 
about  400. 
16 


The  university  Libranj,  now  very  extensive  and  valu- 
able, consisted  originally  of  the  books  belonging  to 
St.  Nicholas'  church,  among  which  were  several  pre- 
viously in  the  ancient  monasteries,  comprising  the  lives 
of  the  fathers  of  the  church,  and  some  volumes  of  the 
classics  in  manuscript.  The  collection  has  been  greatly 
increased  by  successive  donations,  of  which  the  most 
considerable  was  that  of  Mr.  Thomas  Reid,  Latin  secre- 
tary to  James  VI.,  who,  in  the  course  of  his  travels,  had 
purchased  the  best  editions  of  the  classics,  with  the  most 
celebrated  works  of  the  ancient  philosophers,  lawyers, 
andx;ritics,  and  numerous  valuable  MSS.,  all  of  which 
he  bequeathed  to  the  university,  in  which  he  was  edu- 
cated, with  a  sum  of  money  as  a  fund  for  its  further 
improvement,  and  for  a  salary  to  the  librarian.  In 
1782,  the  Earl  of  Bute,  then  chancellor,  presented  to 
the  library  a  collection  of  1400  volumes;  and  it  was 
subsequently  enlarged  by  the  collections  of  Sir  "William 
Fordyce  and  Professor  Donaldson.  The  Museum  contains 
numerous  specimens  in  the  various  departments  of  natu- 
ral history,  and  many  artificial  curiosities,  among  which 
are,  an  Egyptian  mummy  ;  an  antique  statue  of  Escula- 
pius,  in  white  marble,  two  feet  in  height ;  the  staff  of 
office  of  the  earls-marischal  of  Scotland;  a  box  of  gold  pre- 
sented to  the  university  by  the  Earl  of  Buchan,  in  1769, 
including  a  silver  pen,  which  is  awarded  as  a  prize  to 
the  most  successful  student  of  the  Greek  class ;  the 
dies  for  a  gold  medal  of  two  ounces  in  weight,  given  by 
the  late  John  Gray,  Esq.,  of  London,  to  be  presented  to 
such  of  his  mathematical  bursars  as  should  distinguish 
themselves  in  acquirements  ;  the  various  apparatus  for 
the  illustration  of  natural  history  ;  and  the  common 
seal  of  the  university,  bearing  the  arms  of  the  maris- 
chal  family,  and  of  those  of  the  city  of  Aberdeen  im- 
paled, with  the  crest  a  meridian  sun,  and  the  motto 
Luceo.  The  Observatory,  formerly  on  the  Castle-hill,  at 
a  distance  from  the  college,  was  removed  on  the  erec- 
tion of  the  present  barracks,  and  government  granted  to 
the  university  a  sum  of  money,  towards  the  building  of 
another  within  the  precincts  of  the  college,  which  was 
completed  in  1840.  It  contains  a  universal  equatorial 
circle,  a  transit  instrument,  a  moveable  quadrant  of  two 
feet  radius,  an  achromatic  telescope  with  refraction  ap- 
paratus, reflecting  telescopes,  an  orrery,  and  various 
other  astronomical  instruments,  with  a  clock  striking 
the  seconds  within  the  hearing  of  the  observer,  and  an 
astronomical  clock  exhibiting  the  motions  of  the  celes- 
tial bodies. 

The  Buildings  of  the  university,  originally  the  Fran- 
ciscan monastery,  several  portions  of  which  were  rapidly 
falling  into  decay,  were  taken  down  in  1838  ;  and  the 
present  elegant  structure,  towards  the  erection  of  which 
government  made  a  grant  of  £15,000,  was  completed  at 
an  expense  of  £25,000.  The  principal  front  of  the  pre- 
sent buildings,  on  the  east  side  of  Broad-street,  occupies 
three  sides  of  a  quadrangle,  and  is  in  the  later  style  of 
English  architecture  ■  the  central  range  is  ornamented 
with  a  stately  square  tower,  with  octagonal  turrets  at  the 
angles,  surmounted  by  minarets  crowned  with  ogee 
domes,  crocketed,  and  terminating  in  flowered  finials. 
Above  the  doorway,  is  a  noble  oriel  window  of  two 
stages,  and  on  each  side  are  three  open  arches,  leading 
into  the  interior  portion  of  the  structure,  above  which 
are  windows  of  two  lights,  cinquefoiled,  and  surmounted 
with  square-headed   dripstones.     The  wings,  which  are 


A  B  E  R 


A  B  E  R 


also  two  stories  high,  are  lighted  by  ranges  of  windows 
of  corresponding  style,  and  at  the  angles  are  octagonal 
turrets,  rising  to  the  parapets,  and  crowned  with  lofty 
minarets  similar  to  those  of  the  principal  tower.  The 
buildings  contain  a  public  hall,  library,  museum,  and 
observatory,  with  spacious  class-rooms  and  other  apart- 
ments. In  the  hall  are  portraits  of  the  earl-marischal, 
founder  of  the  university,  the  last  earl,  and  his  brother, 
Field-Marshal  Keith  ;  of  Bishop  Burnet,  the  Earl  of 
Bute,  Sir  Robert  Gordon  of  Straloch,  Dr.  Arthur  John- 
ston, Sir  Paul  Menzies,  provost  of  Aberdeen,  and  others, 
by  the  celebrated  artist,  Jamieson. 

The  city  originally  constituted  the  parish  of  St.  Ni- 
cholas alone,  which  was  divided  by  the  authority  of  the 
Court  of  Teinds,  in  182S,  into  the  six  separate  parishes 
of  East,  West,  North,  South,  the  Grey  Friars,  and 
St.  Clement.  The  parish  of  the  East  Kirk,  situated  in 
the  centre  of  the  city,  contains  a  population  of  479S  ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £300,  paid  by  the  corporation,  who 
are  patrons  of  the  whole  of  the  six  churches,  and  receive 
the  seat-rents,  and  apply  them  to  church  purposes. 
The  church,  originally  the  choir  of  the  collegiate  church 
of  St.  Nicholas,  was  rebuilt  in  1S37,  at  an  expense  of 
£5000  ;  it  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  later  English 
style,  86  feet  in  length,  and  is  separated  from  the  West 
church,  which  formed  the  western  portion  of  the  old 
edifice,  by  the  lofty  arches  of  the  tower.  Externally, 
the  two  churches  are  connected,  and  embellished  with 
an  elegant  facade  of  granite,  160  feet  in  length  :  the  East 
church  contains  1*05  sittings.  There  are  places  of  wor- 
ship for  United  Secession  and  Original  Burgher  congre- 
gations, and  an  episcopal  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Paul, 
erected  in  1722,  at  an  expense  of  £1000;  there  are  also 
places  of  worship  for  Wesleyans,  Glassites,  Unitarians, 
and  United  Christians.  The  parish  of  West  Kirk  contains 
a  population  of  10,166  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £300, 
paid  by  the  corporation.  The  church,  originally  the 
nave  of  the  ancient  church  of  St.  Nicholas,  is  separated 
from  the  East  church  by  the  arches  of  the  tower,  which 
is  surmounted  by  a  lofty  spire  143  feet  high;  the  West 
church  was  enlarged  in  1836,  and  now  contains  1454 
sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  Independents 
and  members  of  the  Relief  Congregation.  The  parish 
of  North  Kirk  is  situated  within  the  town,  and  contains 
a  population  of  5381  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £300, 
paid  by  the  corporation.  The  church  is  a  handsome 
structure  of  dressed  granite,  in  the  Grecian  style, 
with  a  lofty  tower,  and  an  elegant  portico  of  the  Ionic 
order,  erected  in  1S31,  by  the  corporation,  and  contain- 
ing I486  sittings.  There  are  a  place  of  worship  for  In- 
dependents, a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  an  episcopal 
chapel  dedicated  to  St.  John,  and  one  dedicated  to  St. 
Andrew,  a  handsome  structure  in  the  later  English 
style,  erected  in  1817,  at  an  expense  of  £S000.  The 
parish  of  South  Kirk  is  situated  within  the  town,  and 
contains  a  population  of  3934  ,  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£250,  paid  by  the  corporation.  The  church,  originally 
a  chapel  of  ease,  was  rebuilt  in  1831,  at  an  expense  of 
£4544,  and  contains  1562  sittings.  There  are  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  United  Secession  Congrega- 
tion and  for  Independents.  The  parish  of  the  Grey 
Friars  is  wholly  in  the  town,  and  contains  a  population 
of  5356 ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £250,  paid  by  the 
corporation.  The  church,  formerly  the  conventual 
church  of  the  monastery  of  the  Grey  Friars,  is  a  very 
Vol.  I.— 17 


ancient  structure,  enlarged  and  improved  some  years 
since,  and  contains  1042  sittings.  There  is  a  place  of 
worship  for  the  Society  of  Friends.  The  parish  of  St. 
Clement  is  to  the  south-east  of  the  town,  in  the  district 
of  Futtie,  and  contains  a  population  of  7092  ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £250,  arising  principally  from 
bequeathed  lands.  The  church,  erected  in  1787,  on  the 
site  of  an  ancient  chapel,  was  afterwards  rebuilt,  on  a 
larger  scale,  at  an  expense  of  £2600  ;  it  is  capable  of 
accommodating  1300  persons.  The  Union  quoad  sacra 
parish,  which,  like  similar  ecclesiastical  districts  in 
other  parts  of  the  country,  has  been  dissolved,  was 
separated  from  the  parishes  of  East  Kirk  and  St.  Cle- 
meut  in  1834,  and  contained  a  population  of  2790; 
the  church  was  built  by  subscription,  in  1822,  at  an 
expense  of  £2600,  and  contains  1238  sittings  ;  a  chapel 
for  seamen,  also,  was  built  in  the  same  year,  at  an  ex- 
pense of  £S00,  by  the  Seamen's  Friend  Society,  and 
contains  570  sittings,  all  of  which  are  free.  The  quoad 
sacra  parish  of  Spring-Garden  was  separated  from  the 
parish  of  West  Kirk,  and  annexed  to  a  Gaelic  church, 
in  1834,  and  contained  a  population  of  1887;  the 
church  was  built  in  1795,  by  subscription  and  loan, 
and  contains  700  sittings.  The  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
the  Holy  Trinity  was  separated  from  the  parish  of  South 
Kirk,  in  1834,  and  contained  a  population  of  205S  ;  the 
church  was  erected  in  1*94,  at  an  expense  of  £1700, 
and  contains  1247  sittings.  The  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
John  Knox,  separated  from  the  parish  of  the  Grey  Friars, 
in  1836,  contained  a  population  of  3377;  the  church 
was  built  by  subscription,  at  a  cost  of  £1000,  and  con- 
tains 1054  sittings.  Places  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church  have  been  built  in  different  parts  of 
the  city  :  of  these,  three  are  at  the  head  of  the  Mutton 
Brae,  connected  together,  and  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
and  elegant  spire. 

Tlie  Grammar  School  is  of  such  remote  antiquity  that 
the  origin  of  its  foundation  is  not  distinctly  known  ;  in 
1418,  Andrew  de  Syves,  vicar  of  Bervie,  who  had  been 
master  for  some  years,  died,  and  the  school,  since  that 
period,  has  continued  to  prosper  under  a  succession  of 
masters,  whose  salaries  have  gradually  increased  from 
£5  Scotch  to  600  merks  per  annum.  It  appears  to  have 
been  supported  by  various  donations,  and  small  fees 
paid  by  the  scholars,  till  1634,  when  Dr.  Patrick  Dun, 
principal  of  Marischal  College,  bequeathed  the  lands  of 
Ferryhill,  for  the  support  of  four  masters,  of  which  pro- 
perty he  appropriated  one-half  of  the  proceeds  to  the 
head  master  or  rector,  and  the  remainder  to  be  equally 
divided  among  the  other  three  masters.  The  school  is 
under  the  patronage  of  the  corporation,  the  ministers  of 
the  town,  and  the  professors  of  Marischal  College,  by 
whom  the  masters  are  appointed,  with  preference  to 
those  of  the  name  of  Dun  ;  the  course  of  instruction 
comprises  the  Greek  and  Latin  classics,  the  French 
language,  history,  geography,  arithmetic,  and  the  mathe- 
matics. The  salary  of  the  rector  is  £100,  and  that  of 
the  other  masters  £50  each,  with  the  fees  of  their 
respective  classes,  amounting  to  13s.  id.  for  each  pupil, 
with  the  exception  of  the  sons  of  poor  tenants  on  the 
Ferryhill  property,  who  are  taught  gratuitously  ;  there 
are  about  200  scholars  in  attendance.  The  buildings, 
erected  in  1757,  form  three  sides  of  a  quadrangle,  with 
two  additional  wings  in  the  rear.  Gordon's  Hospital, 
for  the  maintenance  and  education  of  the  sons  of  de- 

D 


A  B  E  R 


A  B  E  R 


cayed  burgesses,  was  founded  in  1732,  by  Robert  Gor- 
don, Esq.,  who,  by  deed,  conveyed  the  whole  of  his 
property,  amounting  to  £10,300,  to  the  provost  and 
council  of  the  city,  and  the  ministers  of  Aberdeen,  who 
erected  a  handsome  building  on  the  ground,  formerly 
belonging  to  the  Dominican  friary,  on  School-hill,  which 
had  been  purchased  by  Mr.  Gordon  ;  but  the  funds, 
which  had  been  much  reduced  by  the  erection  of  the 
building,  were  suffered  to  accumulate  till  1750,  when  the 
hospital  was  opened,  and  30  boys  admitted  on  the  foun- 
dation. The  number  gradually  increased  to  80  ;  and  in 
1816,  Alexander  Simpson,  Esq.,  of  Collie-hill,  bequeathed 
to  the  principal  and  professors  of  Marischal  College,  and 
the  ministers  of  Aberdeen,  lands  in  the  parishes  of  New 
and  Old  Deer,  for  the  maintenance  and  education  of  an 
additional  number  of  boys,  for  which  purpose  the  build- 
ing was  enlarged,  by  the  addition  of  two  wings,  at  an 
expense  of  £14,000,  and  50  more  boys  were  admitted. 
The  buildings  consist  of  a  central  range,  connected  with 
the  wings  by  a  handsome  colonnade,  and  surmounted 
by  a  small  neat  spire  ;  over  the  principal  entrance,  in  a 
niche,  is  a  statue  of  the  founder,  in  white  marble  ;  in 
the  hall  is  a  full-length  portrait,  and  in  the  public  school- 
room a  half-length  portrait  of  the  founder.  The  Boys' 
Hospital  originated  in  the  separation  from  the  Poor's  hos- 
pital of  the  adult  inmates  and  girls,  and  the  subsequent 
appropriation  of  the  remaining  part  of  the  funds  to  the 
maintenance  and  education  of  poor  boys,  of  whom  25 
were  admitted  in  1768,  since  which  time  the  number  has 
been  increased  to  50,  who  are  clothed,  maintained,  and 
taught  the  ordinary  branches  of  learning.  The  Girls' 
Hospital,  upon  a  similar  plan,  was  instituted  in  1 829,  and 
is  supported  by  subscription  and  annual  collections ; 
30  girls  are  clothed,  maintained,  and  instructed,  till 
they  are  14  years  of  age,  when  they  are  placed  out  to 
service.  Dr.  Bell,  of  Madras,  bequeathed  to  the  magis- 
trates and  council  £10,000  -three  per  cents.,  for  the 
support  of  schools  upon  his  system  ;  and  two  have  been 
consequently  established,  in  one  of  which  are  400  boys, 
and  in  the  other  300  girls.  Schools  on  the  Lancasterian 
plan  were  also  opened  in  1815,  in  which,  for  some  years, 
were  450  boys  and  the  same  number  of  girls ;  but, 
since  the  establishment  of  the  Madras  schools,  the  num- 
ber of  scholars  has  been  reduced  to  less  than  one-half. 
In  addition  to  these  institutions,  there  are  nearly  40 
parochial  and  other  schools  in  the  town  and  neighbour- 
hood, in  which  the  fees  vary  from  two  to  five  shillings  per 
quarter,  and  the  aggregate  number  of  scholars  amounts 
to  nearly  4000  ;  there  are  also  week-day  evening  schools, 
in  which  the  number  of  scholars  is  about  700,  and  20 
Sabbath-schools,  in  which  there  are  2000  scholars. 

The  House  of  Refuge  was  established  in  1S36,  by  sub- 
scription, aided  by  a  donation  of  £1000  from  George 
Watt,  Esq.,  and  is  supported  by  annual  contributions; 
the  number  of  inmates,  in  1839,  was  420,  of  whom  120 
males  and  90  females,  who  were  under  14  years  of  age, 
were  instructed  in  the  ordinary  branches  of  a  useful 
education.  The  House  of  Industry  and  Magdalen  Asylum 
were  also  founded  chiefly  by  Mr.  Watt,  who,  for  that 
purpose,  conveyed  to  trustees  the  property  of  Old  Mill, 
producing  a  rental  of  £164.  The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Insti- 
tution was  established  by  subscription,  in  1819;  but, 
from  the  inadequacy  of  the  funds,  only  one-half  of  the 
expense  of  maintenance  is  afforded  to  the  inmates,  who 
generally  derive  the  remainder  from  other  charitable 
18 


funds  ;  the  management  is  vested  in  a  committee,  and 
the  teacher  is  allowed  to  receive  private  boarders,  who 
are  not  chargeable  to  the  funds.  The  Infirmary  was 
first  established  in  1739.  by  subscription,  aided  by  a 
grant  of  £36  per  annum  by  the  magistrates,  who  also 
gave  a  site  for  the  erection  of  the  building,  which  was 
partly  effected  in  1760,  when  48  patients  were  admitted. 
An  addition  to  the  building,  in  1820,  increased  the  num- 
ber to  70,  and  in  1833,  the  managers  resolved  to  erect 
an  edifice  on  a  larger  scale,  which  was  accomplished  in 
1835,  at  an  expense  of  £8500,  and  the  institution  adapted 
for  the  reception  of  210  patients.  The  government  by 
charter,  is  vested  in  the  magistrates,  the  professor  of 
medicine  in  Marischal  College,  and  the  moderator  of  the 
synod  of  Aberdeen,  who,  with  all  benefactors  of  £50 
each,  constitute  the  body  of  directors,  of  whom  sixteen, 
chosen  annually,  form  a  committee  of  management ; 
there  are  two  physicians,  two  surgeons,  a  resident  sur- 
geon, and  an  apothecary.  The  buildings  are  spacious, 
and  well  ventilated ;  there  are  twenty  wards  of  large 
dimensions,  and  eleven  apartments  for  cases  requiring 
separate  treatment  and  attendance  ;  the  income  averages 
£2500.  A.  dispensary  was  originally  established  in 
connexion  with  the  infirmary,  and  partly  supported 
from  the  same  funds  ;  but,  subsequently,  dispensaries 
were  opened,  and  maintained  by  subscription,  of  which 
there  were  three  in  the  town,  and  two  in  the  suburbs  ; 
these,  in  IS23,  were  incorporated  into  one  institution 
called  the  General  Dispensary. 

The  Lunatic  Asylum  was  first  instituted  in  1799,  and 
a  building  erected  for  the  purpose  at  a  cost  of  £34S4, 
towards  which  the  magistrates,  as  trustees  of  Mr.  Car- 
gill's  charity,  contributed  £1130,  on  condition  of  being 
permitted  to  send  ten  pauper  patients  gratuitously ;  and 
for  the  reception  of  an  increasing  number  of  patients, 
and  their  requisite  classification,  some  ground  adjoining 
the  asylum  was  purchased,  and  an  additional  building 
erected,  in  1819,  at  a  cost  of  £13,135,  towards  which 
the  governors  appropriated  a  bequest  of  £10,000  by 
John  Forbes,  Esq.  In  1836,  about  eleven  acres  of  land 
were  purchased  for  £3000,  in  the  cultivation  of  which 
many  of  the  patients  are  engaged ;  several  workshops 
have  also  been  erected  for  such  as  show  any  predilec- 
tion for  mechanical  pursuits,  and  to  these  are  added  the 
powerful  influences  of  religious  worship,  for  which  a 
chapel  has  been  erected.  John  Gordon,  Esq.,  of  Murtle, 
in  1815,  bequeathed  considerable  property  to  trustees, 
for  pious  and  charitable  uses,  of  which  the)'  assigned 
£100  per  annum  to  the  lecturers  on  practical  religion 
in  King's  and  Marischal  Colleges,  £150  to  aged  female 
servants,  £150  towards  the  support  of  Sunday  schools. 
£300  for  the  establishment  of  an  hospital  for  female 
orphans,  and  the  residue  in  annual  donations  to  the 
Deaf  and  Dumb  Society,  and  other  institutions.  Mr. 
John  Carnegie,  in  1835,  left  nearly  £8000  to  trustees, 
for  the  establishment  of  an  Orphan  Hospital  for  females, 
and  in  1836,  Mrs.  Elmslie,  of  London,  bequeathed  for 
the  same  purpose  £26,000 ;  with  these  funds,  an  appro- 
priate building  has  been  erected,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  town,  and  properly  endowed.  The  Asylum  for  the 
Indigent  Blind  was  instituted  in  1818,  by  the  trustees  of 
Miss  Cruickshank,  who  devoted  the  bulk  of  her  pro- 
perty to  that  purpose,  which,  after  the  funds  had  been 
suffered  for  some  years  to  accumulate,  has  been  carried 
into  effect,  and   an   appropriate  building  erected.     An 


A  B  E  R 


ABEll 


hospital   for   the   maintenance    and    education    of  five 
orphan  or  destitute  boys,  and  as  many  girls,  and  for 
which,  at  present,  a  house  has  been  hired  in  the  Gal- 
lowgate,  was  founded  by  a  bequest  of  Alexander  Shaw,  in 
the  year  1807.     The  boys  are  apprenticed,  and  the  girls 
placed  out  as  servants  ;  the  former,  on  the  expiration 
of  their  indentures,  and  the  latter  after  five  years'  ser- 
vice in  the  sarne  family,   receive  a  premium  of  £10. 
There  are  also  numerous   religious   societies.     Among 
the  most  Eminent  Natives  may  be  noticed,  John  Barbour, 
archdeacon  of  Aberdeen  in  1330,  and  author  of  a  me- 
trical history  of  Robert  Bruce;  George  Jamieson,  a  por- 
trait-painter, who  was  born  in  1586,  and   painted   more 
than  100  portraits  of  the  principal  nobility  and  gentry, 
which  are  held  in  high  estimation;    David  Anderson, 
distinguished  for  his  mechanical  genius,  and  who,  in 
1618,  greatly  improved  the  harbour  by  the  removal  of  a 
large  rock  which  lay  in  the  middle  of  the  channel,  and 
obstructed  the  entrance  ;    James  Gregory,  inventor  of 
the  refleoting-telescope,  born   in  1638,  and  educated   at 
Marischal  College;    James   Gibbs,  born    in    16SS,  the 
architect   of  the   church  of  St.   Martin's-in-the-Fields, 
London ;    John   Gregory,  born   in    1724,  "professor   of 
medicine   in  King's    College,  and  afterwards  of  Edin- 
burgh, where  he  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  Dr.  James 
Gregory,  also  a  native  of  this  place  ;  and  John  Ramage, 
eminent  for  his  practical  skill  in  the  construction  of 
reflecting-telescopes,   of  which  he  made  one  now  in  the 
Royal  Observatory,  which,  though  greatly  inferior  in  size, 
is  nearly  equal  in  power  to  Herschel's  celebrated  forty- 
feet  reflector.     Connected  with  the  town  are  also,  Dr. 
Robert   Hamilton,  professor  of  natural  philosophy,  and 
afterwards  of  mathematics,  in   Marischal  College,  and 
author  of  a  valued  essay  on  the  national  debt ;  Dr.  Patrick 
Copland,  likewise  professor  of  mathematics  and  natural 
philosophy  in   the   college,   of  which   he  enriched   the 
museum  with   apparatus  and  models  of  his  own  con- 
struction ;  and  Dr.   Beattie  and  the  late  Lord  Byron, 
who   were   residents   of  Aberdeen.     The   city  gives  the 
title  of  Earl  to  a  branch  of  the  Gordon  family. 

ABERDEEN,  OLD,  or 
Old  Mach  AR,a  parish,  chiefly 
without,  but  partly  within, 
the  city  of  Aberdeen,  county 
of  Aberdeen  ;  comprising 
the  quoad  sacra  districts 
of  Bon-Accord,  Gilcomston, 
'^^  Holburn,and  Woodside;  and 
containing  28,020  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  7570  are  in  the 
quoad  sacra  district  of  Old 
Aberdeen.  This  place,  origi- 
nally a  small  hamlet,  consist- 
Jng  only  of  a  few  scattered  cottages,  was,  from  the  erec- 
tion of  a  chapel  near  the  ancient  bridge  of  Seaton  by  St. 
Machar,  in  the  ninth  century,  called  the  Kirktown  of 
Seaton,  but  was  undistinguished  by  any  event  of  import- 
ance, till  the  year  1137,  when  it  became  the  seat  of  a 
diocese,  on  the  removal  of  the  see  of  Aberdeen,  by 
David  I.,  from  Mortlach,  in  the  county  of  Banff,  where 
it  was  originally  founded  by  Malcolm  II.,  and  had  con- 
tinued for  more  than  120  years.  Bishop  Kinnimond, 
at  that  time  prelate  of  the  see,  founded  a  cathedral 
church  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  chapel  of  St.  Machar, 
which,  towards  the  end  of  the  13th  century,  was  taken 
19 


Burgh  Seal. 


down  by  Bishop  Cheyne,  for  the  purpose  of  erecting  a 
structure  of  more  ample  dimensions,  and  of  more  ap- 
propriate character;  but,  in  the  contested  succession  to 
the  throne  of  Scotland,  becoming  an  adherent  of  Baliol, 
he  was  compelled  to  retire  into  exile,  and  the  rebuilding 
of  the  cathedral  was  suspended.  On  the  establishment 
of  Robert  Bruce,  however,  that  monarch  recalled  the 
exiled  bishop,  who  recommenced  the  work,  which  was 
continued  by  his  successors,  of  whom  Bishop  Elphin- 
stone,  the  founder  of  King's  College,  with  the  assistance 
of  James  IV.,  made  rapid  progress  in  the  rebuilding  of 
the  cathedral,  which  was  completed  by  Bishop  Dunbar, 
in  1518,  and,  since  the  abolition  of  episcopacy  in  Scot- 
land, has  been  appropriated  as  the  parish  church. 

The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  gentle  eminence 
near  the  river  Don,  over  which  is  an  ancient  picturesque 
bridge  of  one  lofty  arch,  in  the  early  English  style,  said 
to  have  been  built  by  Bishop  Cheyne,  though  by  others 
ascribed  to  King  Robert  Bruce,  and  concerning  which, 
under  the   appellation   of  the  Brig  of  Balgvwnie,   a  tra- 
ditionary legend  prophetic  of  its   downfall  is  quoted  by 
Lord  Byron.     Considerably  to  the  east  of  this,  is  an- 
other bridge,  affording  a  passage  from  Aberdeen  to  the 
north,  and  which  was   erected  from  the  funds  for  keep- 
ing the  old  bridge  in  repair,  originally  left  for  that  pur- 
pose by  Sir  Alexander  Hay,  and  which,  from  £2.  5.  6., 
had   accumulated  to  £20,000  ;   it  is  a  handsome   struc- 
ture   of   five    arches,    built    of   granite.     The    principal 
street,   which   consists   of  houses   irregularly  built,   ex- 
tends  from   south  to  north,  to  the  town-house,  where 
it  diverges   into   two  branches,    the  one  leading  to  the 
church,  and  the  other  to  the  old  bridge  ;   the  streets  are 
lighted,  and  the  inhabitants  are  well  supplied  with  water 
by  commissioners   appointed  by  the  rate-payers.      The 
environs    are   extremely  pleasant,   and   richly   wooded ; 
and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town  are  nume- 
rous  villas.     On  the   establishment  of  the  see  at  this 
place,    the    town  was    made  a  burgh   of  barony,    by 
charter   of  David   I.  ;    and  the   various   privileges   con- 
ferred upon  it  by  subsequent  sovereigns  were  confirmed 
by  charter  of  George  I.,  who  granted  the  inhabitants 
the   power  of   choosing   their   own   magistrates.     The 
government  is   vested,  by   charter,   in  a  provost,  four 
bailies,  a  treasurer,   and  council  of  eight   merchant  and 
five  trade-burgesses,  assisted  by  a  town-clerk,  procu- 
rator-fiscal, and  other  officers.     There  are  seven  incor- 
porated trades,  viz.,  the  hammermen,  weavers,  tailors, 
wrights  and  coopers,  bakers  and  brewers,  fleshers  and 
fishers,   and   shoemakers,  who  elect  their  own  deacons, 
and  also  a  deacon  convener ;  the  fees  on  entrance  to 
these  trades,  which  confers  the  privilege  of  carrying  on 
trade  in  the   burgh,  are  £8,  and  a  payment  of  £3  to  the 
court  of  conveners,   and  for  a  merchant-burgess  £5.  7- 
The  jurisdiction   of  the    magistrates   extends   over  the 
whole  burgh,  but  is  seldom   exercised  ;   not   more  than 
two  civil  causes  have  been  determined  in  one  year ;  in 
criminal  cases,  their  jurisdiction  is  limited  to  petty  mis- 
demeanours, and  all  more  serious  offences  are  referred 
to  the  sheriffs'  court.     The  burgh,  for  electoral  purposes, 
is  associated  with  Aberdeen,  and  the  right  of  election, 
under  the  Reform   act,   is   vested   in  the  resident   £10 
householders    of   the    place ;   the  number    of   members 
of  all  the   several  guilds  does  not  in  the  aggregate  ex- 
ceed 120,  and  of  these  not  more  than  fifteen  exercise 
any  trade.     The   town-hall,  which  is   situated    at   the 

D  2 


ABER 


ABER 


northern  extremity  of  the  principal  street,  was  built  by 
subscription,  in  1/02,  and  has  been  since  rebuilt ;  it 
contains  a  spacious  hall  for  public  meetings,  a  council- 
room  for  the  occasional  use  of  the  magistrates,  and 
various  other  apartments.  In  the  upper  floor  is  the 
grammar  school,  and  on  the  ground  floor  a  school  for 
English.  Opposite  to  the  town-hall  was  formerly  an 
ancient  cross,  consisting  of  a  pedestal  bearing  the  arms 
of  the  Bishops  Dunbar,  Stewart,  and  Gordon,  from 
which  rose  a  pillar  surmounted  by  an  effigy  of  the  Virgin 
Mary;  but  this  was  removed  on  the  rebuilding  of  the 
hall. 

Since  the  dissolution  of 
the  episcopal  see,  the  town 
has  owed  its  chief  prosperity 
and  support  to  its  university, 
which  was  founded  by  Bishop 
Elphinstone,  in  the  reign  of 
James  IV.,  who  for  that  pur- 
pose procured  a  bull  from 
Pope  Alexander  VI. ;  the 
college  was  first  dedicated  to 
St.  Mary,  but,  from  the  great 

liberality  of  the  monarch  in 

,  J  .    ..  ,  Seal  or  the  University. 

its  endowment,  it  was  subse-  J  " 

quently  called  King's  College,  which  designation  it 
has  ever  since  retained.  The  first  principal  of  the 
college  was  Hector  Boethius,  the  celebrated  historian, 
under  whom,  and  his  successors,  it  continued  to  flou- 
rish till  the  Reformation,  at  which  time  many  of  its 
functionaries  were  expelled.  In  1578,  the  institution 
received  a  charter  from  the  parliament,  after  which  it 
languished,  under  the  gross  mismanagement  of  its  prin- 
cipals, who  sold  the  ornaments  of  the  chapel,  alienated 
the  revenues  for  their  own  emolument,  and  committed 
other  abuses.  In  1619,  however,  Bishop  Forbes,  by  great 
perseverance,  recovered  part  of  the  alienated  property, 
and  restored  several  of  the  professorships,  to  which,  in 
1628,  he  added  a  professorship  of  divinity,  which  was 
afterwards  held  by  his  son.  From  this  time,  the  insti- 
tution revived,  and  continued  to  flourish  till  the  intro- 
duction of  the  covenant,  for  refusing  to  sign  which 
several  of  the  professors  were  expelled,  among  whom 
was  Dr.  Forbes,  the  divinity  professor.  Many  of  the 
new  professors  appointed  by  the  Covenanters,  were,  in 
their  turn,  ejected  by  Cromwell,  under  whom  General 
Monk  dispatched  Colonels  Desborough,  Fenwick,  and 
others,  to  visit  and  reform  the  college ;  but  these 
officers,  though  they  removed  some  of  the  professors, 
and  appointed  others,  still  promoted  the  general  inte- 
rests of  the  establishment,  and  subscribed  liberally 
towards  the  erection  of  houses  for  the  students.  After 
the  restoration  of  Charles  II.,  the  bishops  of  Aberdeen 
assumed  their  authority  as  chancellors  of  the  univer- 
sity, and  reformed  the  disorders  which  had  been  intro- 
duced during  the  interregnum.  The  university,  as  at 
present  constituted,  is  under  the  direction  of  a  chan- 
cellor, generally  a  nobleman  of  high  rank,  who  is  elected 
by  the  senatus  academicus  ;  a  rector,  chosen  by  the 
same  body;  and  a  principal  and  sub-principal,  elected 
by  the  rector,  procuratores  gentium,  and  the  pro- 
fessors, and  admitted  by  the  chancellor.  There  are 
nine  professorships,  of  which  those  of  Greek,  humanity, 
medicine  and  chemistry,  and  civil  law,  are  in  the  pa- 
tronage of  the  rector,  procuratores,  and  senatus  acade- 
20 


micus;  divinity  in  that  of  the  synod  of  Aberdeen,  the 
principal  and  dean  of  faculty  of  theology ;  those  of 
mathematics,  natural  philosophy,  and  moral  philosophy, 
in  the  patronage  of  the  senatus  academicus  ;  and  that 
of  oriental  languages,  in  the  patronage  of  the  crown. 
There  are  also  eleven  lectureships,  of  which  that  on 
practical  religion  is  in  the  patronage  of  the  trustees  of 
John  Gordon,  Esq.,  of  Murtle,  the  founder  ;  and  those 
on  the  evidences  and  principles  of  the  Christian  religion, 
Murray's  Sunday  lectures,  materia  medica,  anatomy 
aud  physiology,  surgery,  practice  of  medicine,  mid- 
wifery, institutes  of  medicine,  medical  jurisprudence, 
and  botany,  are  all  in  the  patronage  of  the  senatus 
academicus.  The  number  of  bursaries  is  above  150, 
varying  from  £5  to  £50  per  annum,  mostly  tenable  for 
four  years  ;  of  these,  96  are  open  to  public  competition, 
and  the  others  are  in  the  patronage  of  the  professors  of 
the  college,  or  representatives  of  the  founders. 

The  site  of  the   college  occupies  a  quadrangular  area 
of  considerable  extent,  surrounded  with  buildings  raised 
at  diEFerent  periods,  of  which  the  most   ancient  were 
erected  in   1500,  and  the  whole  possesses  a  strikingly 
venerable  appearance.      In  the  north-west  angle,  is  a 
lofty  massive  tower,  strengthened   with  canopied  but- 
tresses, bearing  the  royal  arms  of  Scotland,  and  those 
of  Stewart,  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrew's,  and   others  ; 
above  the  parapet  is  a  lantern,  supported  by  flying  but- 
tresses springing  from   the   angles,   in  the  form   of  an 
imperial  crown.     On  the  north  side  of  the  quadrangle  is 
the  ancient  chapel  erected  by  Bishop  Elphinstone,  origi- 
nally a  stately  structure  of  elegant  design,  with  a  lofty 
spire,  and  internally  embellished  with  most  costly  orna- 
ments, which,  as  before  noticed,  were  sold  by  the  par- 
liamentarian functionaries  ;  the  nave  is  now  appropriated 
to  the  use  of  the  college  library,  and  the  chancel  to  the 
purposes  of  a  college  chapel.     There  are  still  remaining, 
in  the  former  portion,  many  traces  of  its  pristine  beauty, 
and  an  inventory  in  Latin  of  the  various  ornaments  of 
the  chapel ;  and  in   the  chancel  are  the  rich  tabernacle 
work  of  the  prebendal  stalls,  the  pews  for  the  diocesan 
synod,  the  carved  oak  roof,  and  the  tombs  of  Bishop  El- 
phinstone and  the  first  principal,  Boethius.     The  south 
side  of  the  quadrangle,  rebuilt  by  Dr.  Fraser,  in  1725,  is 
of  plain  character,  112   feet  in  length,  with  a  piazza  in 
front,  and  at  each  extremity  was   a  circular  tower,   of 
which  one  only  is  remaining.     The  common  hall,  which 
is  60  feet  in  length,  and  23  feet  wide,  contains  numerous 
portraits     by    Jamieson,     including    those    of   Bishops 
Elphinstone,  Dunbar,  Forbes,  Leslie,  and  Scougal,  Pro- 
fessors Sandiland  and  Gordon,  George  Buchanan,  and 
Queen  Mary  ;   and  in  the  committee-room  is  a  painting, 
on  panel,  of  the  college  as  it   appeared  in  the  sixteenth 
century.     The  library  contains  a  very  valuable  and  ex- 
tensive collection  of  books  and  manuscripts,  and  was 
formerly  entitled  to  a  copy  of  every  work  entered   at 
Stationers'   Hall,  of  which  privilege  it  was  deprived,  by 
act  of  parliament,  in   1836,  and,  in  compensation,  has 
since  received  an  annual  grant  of  £3'20.     The  museum 
contains  a  large  collection  of  specimens    in  mineralogy 
and  zoology,  numerous  Grecian   and   Roman   coins  and 
antiquities,  casts  from  ancient  gems,  and  some  valuable 
books  of  engravings  illustrative  of  these  subjects  ;   this 
department  was,  in  1790,  enriched  with   the  coins  and 
medals  bequeathed  by  Dr.   Cummin,   of  Andover,  and 
has  been  subsequently  increased  by  numerous  specimens. 


ABEIl 


A    B  E  II 


A  commodious  room,  in  the  more  modern  portion  of 
the  building,  was  handsomely  fitted  up  by  subscription, 
in  1842,  as  a  museum  of  natural  history.  Among  the 
many  distinguished  individuals  connected  with  the 
university  may  be  noticed,  George,  Earl  Marischal,  the 
founder  of  Marischal  College  ;  Chancellor  Gordon,  of 
Haddo,  created  Earl  of  Aberdeen  in  1682;  Dr.  Thomas 
Bower,  an  eminent  mathematician ;  the  celebrated  Dr. 
Reid,  professor  of  philosophy,  and  afterwards  of  Glas- 
gow ;  Lord  Monboddo  ;  Dr.  Charles  Burney,  a  distin- 
guished Greek  scholar;  Arthur  Johnston,  a  Latin  poet; 
Dr.  James  Gregory,  and  his  sons,  afterwards  professors 
of  medicine  at  Edinburgh  ;  Robert  Hall ;  and  Sir  James 
Mackintosh. 

The  parish  originally  formed  the  deanery  of  St. 
Machar,  and  comprehended  the  parishes  of  New  Ma- 
char  and  Newhills,  which,  -soon  after  the  Reformation, 
were  separated  from  it ;  the  present  parish  is  about 
eight  miles  in  length,  and  varies  from  two  to  four  in 
breadth,  situated  on  a  peninsula,  between  the  rivers  Dee 
and  Don.  The  surface  rises  gradually  from  the  sea- 
shore, and  the  scenery  is  interspersed  with  flourishing 
plantations,  and  with  the  windings  of  the  Dee  and  Don, 
the  banks  of  which  latter  are  richly  wooded,  and  in 
some  parts,  from  their  precipitous  acclivity  and  rugged 
aspect,  have  a  strikingly  romantic  appearance.  The 
higher  grounds  command  extensive  views  of  the  German 
Ocean,  of  the  lofty  and  ancient  bridge  on  the  one  side, 
and  on  the  other  of  the  cathedral  and  the  spires  of 
Aberdeen.  The  soil  is  various,  in  some  parts  richly 
fertile,  and  in  others  almost  sterile  ;  but  the  lands  are 
generally  in  good  cultivation,  and  the  state  of  agriculture 
highly  improved.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  and 
synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Fife ; 
the  stipend  of  the  first  minister  is  £273.  1.  3.,  and  that 
of  the  second  £282.  19.  9.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £31.  10.  per  annum.  The  church  was  for- 
merly an  elegant  structure,  of  which  the  choir,  with  its 
embellishments,  was  destroyed  by  the  reformers  ;  and 
the  remainder  of  the  building  was  preserved  from  demo- 
lition only  by  the  Earl  of  Huutlj',  and  Leslie,  of  Balqu- 
han,  who,  at  the  head  of  a  large  body  of  their  armed 
retainers,  drove  away  the  band  which  had  been  assem- 
bled for  its  destruction.  The  interior  of  the  remaining 
portion  suffered  great  mutilation  under  the  Covenanters, 
who  destroyed  the  altar,  and  the  rich  carvings  and  other 
ornaments;  and  in  1688,  the  high  tower  at  the  east 
end  of  the  nave,  which  had  been  undermined  by  the 
soldiers  of  Cromwell,  through  the  removal  of  masonry, 
for  the  erection  of  their  works  at  Castle-hill,  and  which, 
with  its  spire,  150  feet  in  height,  had  long  served  as  a 
landmark  to  mariners,  fell  to  the  ground,  destroying,  in 
its  fall,  a  considerable  portion  of  the  nave,  with  several 
of  the  monuments.  The  great  arches  on  which  the 
central  tower  was  supported,  have  been  built  up,  and 
the  two  towers  at  the  west  end  are  in  good  preservation  ; 
they  are  112  feet  high,  and,  after  rising  to  the  height  of 
52  feet,  in  a  quadrilateral  form,  are  continued  by  a  suc- 
cession of  octangular  turrets,  decreasing  in  size  till  they 
terminate  in  a  finial  surmounted  by  a  cross.  The  ceil- 
ing is  divided  into  forty-eight  compartments,  in  which 
are  emblazoned,  in  vivid  colours  recently  renewed,  the 
armorial  bearings  of  the  Scottish  kings,  the  ecclesias- 
tical dignitaries,  and  the  principal  nobility.  Of  the 
several  monuments  still  remaining,  that  of  Bishop 
21 


Scougal,  father  of  Henry  Scougal,  author  of  the  Life  of 
God  in  the  Soul  of  Man,  is  the  most  interesting  and 
entire  ;  there  are  also  a  monument  to  William  Blake,  of 
Haddo,  sub-principal  of  King's  College,  and  tablets  to 
Gordon  and  Scott,  professors,  and  David  Mitchell,  Esq., 
LL.D.  The  portion  of  the  building  appropriated  as  the 
parish  church,  is  neatly  fitted  up,  and  contains  1594 
sittings ;  the  chapel  in  King's  College  contains  350 
sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church. 

The  grammar  school,  which  is  held  in  the  town-hall, 
is  under  the  patronage  of  the  magistrates  and  council, 
and  is  visited  annually  by  the  professors  of  the  college, 
and  the  ministers.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruc- 
tion to  about  70  scholars  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £30,  and  an  equal  sum  from  the  trustees  of  Dick's 
bequest,  and  the  fees  average  about  £30  per  annum. 
There  are  also  two  schools  on  the  Madras  system, 
founded  by  a  bequest  of  Dr.  Bell.  An  hospital  was 
founded  in  1531,  by  Bishop  Dunbar,  who  endowed  it 
for  twelve  aged  men ;  the  buildings  consisted  of  a  re- 
fectory, twelve  dormitories,  and  a  chapel  surmounted 
with  a  small  spire.  The  endowment  has  been  subse- 
quently increased  by  donations  and  bequests,  and  by 
the  proceeds  of  the  sale  of  the  buildings  ;  the  present 
funds  are  about  £3000,  from  the  interest  of  which  21 
aged  men  derive  relief.  An  hospital  was  founded  in 
1801,  by  Dr.  Mitchell,  for  lodging,  clothing,  and  main- 
taining five  widows,  and  five  unmarried  daughters  of 
burgesses  in  indigent  circumstances,  for  which  purpose 
he  bequeathed  ample  funds,  in  trust,  to  the  principal  of 
King's  College,  the  provost,  and  senior  bailie  of  the 
town,  and  the  two  ministers  of  the  parish.  The  build- 
ing, which  is  situated  near  the  church,  is  one  story 
high,  and  contains  a  kitchen,  refectory,  and  dormitories, 
neatly  furnished  ;  and  attached  to  it  is  a  pleasure- 
ground.      A  dispensary  was  established  in  1S26. 

ABERDEENSHIRE,  a  maritime  county,  in  the 
north-east  part  of  Scotland,  and  one  of  the  most  exten- 
sive in  the  kingdom,  bounded  on  the  north  by  Moray 
Frith;  on  the  east  by  the  German  Sea;  on  the  south  by 
Perth,  Forfar,  and  Kincardine  shires,  and  on  the  west  by 
the  counties  of  Banff  and  Inverness.  It  lies  between  56° 
52'  and  57°  42'  (N.  Lat.),  and  1°  49'  and  3°  48'  (W.  Lon.), 
and  is  S6  miles  in  extreme  length,  and  42  miles  in  ex- 
treme breadth;  comprising  an  area  of  1985  square 
miles,  or  1,270,400  acres;  32,063  inhabited,  and  1091 
uninhabited,  houses ;  and  containing  a  population  of 
192,387,  of  which  number  89,707  are  males,  and  102,6S0 
females.  From  the  time  of  David  I.,  the  county  was 
included  in  the  diocese  of  Aberdeen  ;  and  at  present,  it 
is  almost  wholly  in  the  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  includes 
several  presbyteries,  the  whole  containing  eighty-five  pa- 
rishes. For  civil  purposes,  it  is  divided  into  eight  dis- 
tricts, Aberdeen,  Alford,  Deer,  otherwise  Buchan,  Ellon, 
Garioch,  Kincardine,  O'Neil,  Strathbogie,  and  Turriff, 
in  each  of  which,  under  the  superintendence  of  a  deputy 
lieutenant,  the  county  magistrates  hold  regular  courts  ; 
and  it  contains  the  three  royal  burghs  of  Aberdeen, 
Kintore,  and  Inverury,  with  the  market-towns  of  Peter- 
head, Fraserburgh,  Huntly,  Turriff,  and  Meldrum,  and 
numerous  large  fishing-villages  on  the  coast.  Under 
the  act  of  the  2nd  of  William  IV.,  the  county  returns 
one  member  to  the  imperial  parliament.  The  surface, 
towards  the  sea,  is  tolerably  level ;  but  the  greater  por  < 


A  B  E  R 


ABER 


tion  forms  part  of  the  central  highlands,  and  consists 
of  high  mountains,  interspersed  with  a  few  valleys. 
The  principal  mountains  are,  the  Braeriach,  which  has 
an  elevation  of  4304  feet,  Ben-Macdhui,  Ben-Aburd,  Ben- 
Aven,  Lochnagar,  and  Morven,  which  vary  from  2500 
to  4300  in  height,  with  numerous  others  from  800  to 
2000  feet  in  height;  the  chief  valleys  are  the  Garioch 
and  Strathbogie,  the  former  inclosed  on  all  sides  with 
hills  of  moderate  height,  and  the  latter  enriched  with 
wood,  abounding  in  beautiful  scenery,  and  highly  culti- 
vated. The  rivers  are,  the  Dee,  the  Don,  the  Ythan, 
the  Doveran,  and  the  Ugie,  but  the  rapidity  of  their 
currents  renders  them  comparatively  useless  for  the 
purpose  of  navigation;  they  have  their  sources,  gene- 
rally, among  the  mountains  in  the  south-west,  and  flow 
towards  the  north  or  north-east ;  they  all  abound  with 
fine  salmon,  and  fish  of  every  kind  is  taken  on  the 
coast. 

About  one-third  of  the  lands  is  under  cultivation, 
and  the  remainder  mountain,  pasture,  and  waste.  The 
soil,  towards  the  sea,  and  in  the  valleys,  is  rich  and  fer- 
tile, producing  excellent  crops  of  wheat  and  other  grain  ; 
and  in  the  more  secluded  portions  of  the  county,  is  some 
fine  timber,  among  which  are  numerous  lofty  pine-trees, 
fit  for  the  masts  of  ships  ;  but,  from  the  want  of  inland 
navigation,  few  of  them  are  felled  for  that  purpose. 
Between  the  Dee  and  the  Ythan,  is  a  low  tract  of  waste, 
on  which  are  some  sand- hills  that  have  been  lamentably 
destructive  of  the  adjacent  lands  ;  several  fertile  fields, 
to  the  north  of  the  Ythan,  have  been  covered,  to  a  great 
extent,  with  sand  blown  from  these  hills,  and  the  walls 
of  a  church  and  a  manse  that  have  been  buried  by  them, 
are  still  to  be  seen.  The  minerals  are  quartz  and  as- 
bestos ;  and  various  gems  and  pieces  of  amber  are 
found  in  the  mountains  :  the  principal  quarries  are  of 
granite  of  very  superior  quality,  of  which  vast  quantities 
are  annually  sent  to  London  and  other  places,  and 
freestone  and  limestone  are  also  extensively  quarried. 
Many  of  the  proprietors  reside  on  their  lands,  and  have 
materially  contributed  to  their  improvement,  by  exten- 
sive plantations,  and  the  introduction  of  a  better  system 
of  agriculture,  and  superior  breeds  of  cattle  ;  and  much 
waste  land  has  been  brought  into  cultivation  under  the 
patronage  of  the  Highland  Society.  The  chief  seats  are, 
Haddo  House,  Aboyne  Castle,  Huntly  Lodge,  Slains 
Castle,  Keith  Hall,  Mar  Lodge,  Delgaty  Castle,  Skene, 
Castle-Forbes,  Philorth  House,  Monymusk,  Ellon  Castle, 
Fintray  House,  Fyvie  Castle,  Gordon  Lodge,  and  Castle- 
Frazer.  The  coast  is  bold  and  rocky,  with  some  alter- 
nations of  level  beach.  The  most  prominent  headlands, 
on  the  Moray  Frith,  are,  Rosehearty  Point  and  Kin- 
naird  Head;  and  on  the  German  Sea,  Cairnbulg  Point, 
Rattray  Head,  Scotstown  Point,  Invernetty  Point,  and 
Buchan  Ness  ;  and  the  chief  bays,  in  the  former,  are, 
the  harbour  of  Rosehearty,  and  the  bay  of  Fraserburgh  ; 
and  in  the  latter,  Peterhead  Bay,  Cruden  Bay,  Sandy 
Haven,  Long  Haven,  Garrick's  Haven,  and  the  bay  of 
Aberdeen.  Facility  of  communication  is  maintained  by 
good  roads,  some  of  which  were  made  under  the  autho- 
rity of  the  commissioners  for  the  Highland  roads  and 
bridges,  appointed  by  act  of  parliament. 

ABERDOUR,   a  parish,   in   the    district  of  Deer, 
county  of  Aberdeen;   comprising  the  village  of  Pen- 
nan,    and  containing   1645   inhabitants,   of  whom    376 
are  in  the  village  of  New  Aberdour,  8  miles  (W.  by  S.) 
22 


from  Fraserburgh.  The  name  of  this  place  is  supposed 
to  have  been  derived  from  a  Gaelic  term  Aber,  signify- 
ing "mouth"  or  "opening,"  in  reference  to  the  rivulet 
Dour,  which  finds  an  entrance  into  the  sea,  a  short  dis- 
tance below  the  manse.  There  are  numerous  cairns 
and  tumuli,  containing  stone  coffins  with  the  ashes  and 
bones  of  human  bodies,  indicating  the  parish  to  have 
been  originally  the  theatre  of  military  conflicts  ;  and 
the  castle  of  Dundargue,  also,  stands  here,  which  Sir 
Thomas  Beaumont  fortified  and  garrisoned,  in  right  of 
his  wife,  who  was  daughter  to  the  Earl  of  Buchan,  when 
he  accompanied  Edward  Baliol,  who  came  to  claim  the 
kingdom  of  Scotland.  This  castle  was  of  great  import- 
ance in  the  feudal  times,  and  is  famed  for  a  long  siege 
in  1336,  when  Henry  de  Beaumont,  the  English  Earl  of 
Buchan,  capitulated  to  Murray,  Regent  of  Scotland, 
during  the  captivity  of  David  Bruce.  On  the  coast  is  a 
cave  called  Covvshaven,  which  is  celebrated  as  the  hiding- 
place  of  Lord  Pitsligo,  after  the  battle  of  Culloden  ;  but 
this  retreat,  from  which  he  was  obliged  to  fly,  was  at 
last  discovered  by  the  impressions  on  the  snow,  of  the 
footsteps  of  a  woman,  who  regularly  supplied  him  with 
food. 

The  parish  contains  15,165  imperial  acres,  of  which 
5S73  are  cultivated,  560S  are  moor  or  green  pasture, 
3486  moss,  88  wood,  and  101  roads,  &c. ;  its  form  is 
altogether  irregular,  consisting  of  a  kind  of  zig-zag 
boundary,  some  parts  of  which  dart  off  to  a  consider- 
able extent.  The  northern  boundary  runs  for  about 
seven  miles  along  the  shore  of  the  Moray  Frith,  which 
is  broken  by  numerous  openings  and  caves,  some  of 
which  penetrate  for  a  long  distance  into  the  land.  The 
coast  in  general  is  bold  and  rocky,  and  on  the  estate  of 
Auchmedden  stands  the  colossal  Pitjossie,  an  immense 
natural  arch,  which  strikes  the  beholder  with  astonish- 
ment, when  viewed  from  the  summit  of  the  adjoining 
cliff,  and  is  said  to  rival  the  celebrated  Bullers  of  Buchan. 
On  the  coast  are  also  the  three  small  bays  of  Aberdour, 
Pennan,  and  Nethermill,  the  beaches  of  which  consist 
of  large  quantities  of  stones  washed  down  the  Dour 
burn  and  other  streams,  and  thrown  back  by  the  vio- 
lence of  the  sea,  on  the  occurrence  of  a  storm.  The  sur- 
face, generally,  is  unequal,  the  eastern  division  being 
fiat  and  low,  while  the  estate  of  Auchmedden,  on  the 
western  side,  rises  about  200  or  300  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea  ;  on  that  property  are  several  deep  ravines 
and  dens,  which,  with  the  numerous  plants  and  adja- 
cent scenery,  present  a  striking  and  romantic  appear- 
ance. In  the  south-eastern  extremity  are  three  farms, 
entirely  cut  off  from  the  rest  of  the  parish  by  the  lands 
of  Tyrie,  and  which  some  suppose  to  have  been  origi- 
nally grazing  land  for  the  cattle  belonging  to  the  tenants 
on  the  sea-coast ;  but  others  think  that,  at  the  time  the 
parish  was  erected,  they  formed  a  separate  estate  be- 
longing to  the  proprietor,  who,  wishing  to  have  all  his 
property  in  one  parish,  included  them  within  the  bounds 
of  Aberdour.  In  the  south-west  of  the  parish,  on  the 
farm  of  Kinbeam,  is  a  fresh- water  loch,  called  Monwig, 
situated  in  a  large  and  deep  moss;  it  is  200  yards  long, 
and  22  broad,  and  in  some  parts  very  deep  ;  and  the 
dark  mossy  water,  of  which  it  consists,  is  covered,  in 
the  season,  with  flocks  of  wild  geese  and  ducks.  There 
are  also  several  small  streams,  all  of  which  run  into  the 
Moray  Frith  ;  and  near  Pitjossie,  in  the  glen  of  Dardar, 
is  a  cascade,  the  water  of  which,  after  dashing  from  the 


ABER 


A  B  E  R 


top  of  a  rock  into  three  successive  basins,  glides  gently 
for  100  yards,  until  it  falls  into  the  Frith. 

The  soil  near  the  coast  is  a  strong  loamy  clay,  which, 
with  good  husbandry,  yields  fine  crops,  but  in  many 
other  parts  it  is  cold  and  mossy,  exhibiting  merely  cul- 
tivated patches  of  land  ;  the  produce  raised  chiefly  com- 
prises oats,  turnips,  potatoes,  barley,  bear,  and  bay. 
Great  improvements  have  taken  place  in  agriculture 
within  the  last  thirty  years,  especially  upon  the  estate 
of  Aberdour,  where  a  regular  and  scientific  system  of 
drainage  has  been  adopted.  The  bog,  moss,  and  moor, 
with  which  the  arable  land  was  mixed,  have  been  re- 
moved ;  bridges  and  roads  have  been  constructed,  and 
a  proper  rotation  of  crops  introduced  and  observed  ; 
which,  together  with  the  application  of  the  most  ap- 
proved methods  of  cultivation,  have  entirely  altered  the 
character  of  the  parish.  In  other  parts,  however,  there 
is  a  deficiency  of  good  inclosures,  arising  from  the 
scarcity  of  stones  for  building  dykes  ;  but  the  farm- 
steadings  are  in  decent  condition,  and  generally  covered 
with  tiles  or  thatch.  The  rocks  on  the  shore,  which 
are  lofty  and  precipitous,  are  a  coarse  sandstone,  pass- 
ing frequently  into  conglomerate,  and  greywacke  slate  ; 
the  loose  blocks  are  primary  trap  or  granite,  and  in 
some  parts  are  seen  convolved  masses  of  clay  and  lime- 
stone, in  which  have  been  found  the  fossil  remains  of 
fish.  There  are  several  quarries  of  granite  and  sand- 
stone, and  two  of  millstone,  one  of  which,  in  the  rocks 
of  Pennan,  though  now  but  little  worked,  is  said  to 
contain  some  of  the  best  stones  in  Britain  ;  the  stones 
from  this  quarry  were  formerly  in  great  repute,  and 
sent  to  the  south  and  west  of  Scotland,  but  the  high 
price  set  upon  them,  has  greatly  lowered  the  demand. 
The  chief  mansion  is  Aberdour  House,  an  old  build- 
ing, occupying  a  very  bleak  situation  ;  and  there  are 
several  other  residences,  particularly  one  on  the  estate 
of  Auchmedden,  the  glens  of  which,  justly  celebrated  as 
the  beds  of  the  finest  collection  of  plants  to  be  found 
in  Scotland,  include  some  scarce  specimens  of  botanical 
treasure. 

The  parish  contains  the  villages  of  New  Aberdour  and 
Pennan,  the  former  erected  in  1798;  the  inhabitants  are 
employed  in  agricultural  pursuits,  with  the  exception  of 
a  few  engaged  in  fishing,  at  Pennan.  The  manufacture 
of  kelp  was  formerly  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent, 
but  has  been  greatly  reduced,  in  consequence  of  the 
repeal  of  the  duty  upon  Spanish  barilla,  which  is  now 
generally  used  in  its  stead.  The  white-fishing  at 
Pennan,  on  the  estate  of  Auchmedden,  employs  six 
boats,  with  four  men  each,  who  pay  a  rent  to  the 
proprietor  of  £20  sterling,  and  some  dried  fish  ;  and 
several  long  boats  annually  proceed  to  the  herring- 
fishing  in  the  Moray  Frith,  which  abounds  with  the 
best  fish  of  almost  every  description,  excepting  salmon, 
very  few  of  which  are  to  be  obtained.  There  are  two 
meal-mills  in  the  parish,  the  one  at  Aberdour,  and  the 
other  at  Nethermill,  both  built  partly  of  granite,  and 
partly  of  red  sandstone.  Four  annual  fairs  are  held  at 
New  Aberdour,  for  cattle,  merchandise,  and  hiring 
servants,  of  which  two  take  place  at  Whitsuntide  and 
Martinmas,  one  in  the  middle  of  April,  and  the  other  in 
the  middle  of  August  ;  and  there  is  also  a  fair  called 
Byth  Market,  occurring  twice  in  the  year,  in  May  and 
October,  upon  a  moor  in  the  south  of  the  parish,  where 
cattle  are  sold.  The  turnpike-road  from  Fraserburgh  to 
23 


Banff  touches  the  parish,  at  the  two  points  of  Bridgend 
in  the  east,  and  Cowbog  in  the  west,  and  is  rendered 
available  to  the  parishioners  by  an  excellent  junction 
road,  constructed  some  years  since  by  one  of  the 
heritors.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the 
presbytery  of  Deer  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  patron 
is  A.  D.  Fordyce,  Esq. ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
above  £200,  with  a  manse,  built  in  1822,  and  a  glebe 
of  about  7  acres,  valued  at  £14  a  year.  The  church, 
which  is  conveniently  situated  at  the  northern  extre- 
mity of  the  village  of  New  Aberdour,  was  erected  in 
ISIS,  and  contains  about  900  sittings.  There  is  a 
parochial  school,  where  Latin  is  taught,  with  all  the 
ordinary  branches  of  education,  and  of  which  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £32,  and  about  £15  fees,  with  a  house. 
The  chief  relic  of  antiquity  is  the  castle  of  Dundar- 
gue,  situated  upon  a  lofty  precipice  overhanging  the 
sea  :  and  at  a  place  called  Chapelden,  are  the  ruins  of 
a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  on  a  hill  opposite  the  Toar 
of  Troup.  Mineral  springs  are  found  in  every  direc- 
tion, the  most  famed  of  which  is  one  named  Mess 
John's  Well,  a  strong  chalybeate,  celebrated  for  its 
medicinal  virtue ;  it  issues  from  a  rock  about  200  yards 
west  of  the  burn  of  Aberdour,  and  has  a  small  basin, 
like  a  cup,  to  receive  the  water  that  drops,  which  basin 
is  commonly  said  to  have  been  formed  by  John  White, 
laird  of  Ardlaw-hill,  during  the  contest  of  religious 
parties. 

ABERDOUR,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Dunferm- 
line, county  of  Fife  ;  including  the  island  of  Inch- 
cohn,  and  the  village  of  Newtown  ;  and  containing  1916 
inhabitants,  of  whom  307  are  in  Easter,  and  469  in 
Wester,  Aberdour,  8  miles  (S.  \V.)  from  Dunfermline. 
This  place  takes  its  name  from  its  situation  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Dour,  a  rivulet  which  flows  into  the  Forth  near 
the  village  ;  it  was  anciently  the  property  of  the  Vipont 
family,  of  whose  baronial  castle  there  are  still  consi- 
derable remains.  The  castle,  with  the  lands,  passed, 
in  1 125,  from  the  Viponts,  by  marriage,  to  the  Mor- 
timers, of  whom  Allen  de  Mortimer  granted  the  western 
portion  of  the  lands  to  the  monks  of  Inchcolm,  in  con- 
sideration of  the  privilege  of  being  allowed  to  bury  in 
the  church  of  their  monastery  on  the  island,  aboat  a 
mile  distant  from  the  shore.  When  conveying  the  re- 
mains of  one  of  that  family  to  the  abbey  for  interment, 
a  violent  storm  is  said  to  have  arisen,  which  compelled 
the  party  to  throw  the  coffin  into  the  channel,  which, 
from  that  circumstance,  obtained  the  appellation  of 
"  Mortimer's  Deep."  The  ancient  castle  is  a  stately 
pile  of  massive  grandeur,  situated  on  an  eminence,  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  water  of  Dour,  and  commanding  an 
extensive  view  of  the  Frith  of  Forth  ;  in  front,  is  a  spa- 
cious terrace,  overlooking  the  gardens,  into  which  are 
several  descents  by  flights  of  steps.  It  was  partly  de- 
stroyed by  an  accidental  fire,  about  the  beginning  of  the 
18th  century,  since  which  time  it  has  been  abandoned, 
and  suffered  to  fall  into  decay  ;  but  the  roof  is  still 
entire,  and  several  of  the  apartments  are  in  tolerable 
preservation,  though  used  only  as  lumber-rooms.  At  a 
small  distance,  is  the  old  church,  now  a  roofless  ruin  ;  it 
contains  the  ancient  family  vault  of  the  Morton  family, 
and  is  surrounded  by  a  small  cemetery. 

The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the 
river  Forth,  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  from  east  to 
west,    and  nearly  of  equal  breadth,   comprising   about 


A  B  E  R 


ABER 


6240  acres,  of  which  3240  are  arable,  about  1800  wood- 
land and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  meadow  and 
pasture.  The  surface  is  broken  by  the  ridge  of  the 
Collelo  hills,  which  traverses  the  parish  from  east  to 
west,  and  of  which  the  summits  are  richly  wooded,  and 
the  southern  acclivities  in  profitable  cultivation.  To- 
wards the  river,  along  which  the  parish  extends  for 
more  than  two  miles,  the  ground  is,  for  the  most  part, 
tolerably  level  ;  but  on  the  east,  the  coast  is  rocky  and 
precipitous,  rising  abruptly  into  eminences  which  are 
wooded  to  the  margin  of  the  Forth.  On  the  face  of  the 
hills,  walks  have  been  laid  out,  commanding  diversified 
prospects ;  and  on  the  west,  is  a  rich  bay  of  white 
sand,  surrounded  with  trees,  from  which  the  ground 
rises  towards  the  west,  into  eminences  crowned  with 
thriving  plantations,  which,  stretching  southward,  ter- 
minate in  a  perpendicular  mass  of  rock  washed  by  the 
sea,  by  which,  and  by  the  headlands  on  the  south-east, 
the  harbour  is  securely  sheltered  from  the  winds.  To 
the  north-west  of  the  harbour,  the  surface  again  rises 
into  a  hill  richly  wooded,  adding  greatly  to  the  beauty  of 
the  scenery,  and  commanding,  on  the  right,  a  view  of 
the  island  of  Inchcolm,  with  the  picturesque  ruins  of  the 
abbey,  and,  on  the  left  of  it,  the  town  of  Burntisland, 
with  the  coasts  of  Lothian,  the  city  of  Edinburgh,  and 
the  Pentland  hills  in  the  distance. 

The  soil  on  the  north  side  of  the  ridge  of  hills,  which 
has  a  considerable  elevation  above  the  sea,  is  cold  and 
sterile,  but  on  the  south  side  more  genial  and  fertile  ; 
and  generally  a  rich  black  loam,  in  some  parts  alter- 
nated with  sand.  The  chief  crops  are,  wheat,  oats, 
barley,  beans,  potatoes,  and  turnips ;  the  system  of 
agriculture  is  much  improved,  and  the  farm-buildings 
are  substantial  and  commodious.  The  substratum 
abounds  with  coal,  of  which  an  extensive  mine  on  the 
lands  of  Donibristle,  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Moray, 
is  in  operation,  about  2|  miles  from  the  village  ;  and  on 
Cottlehill,  coal  is  also  wrought.  Freestone  of  white 
colour,  and  of  compact  texture,  was  formerly  quarried  to 
a  great  extent,  and  much  of  it  was  sent  to  Edinburgh 
and  Glasgow,  for  ornamental  buildings ;  and  on  the 
lands  of  the  Earl  of  Morton,  is  a  quarry  of  stone,  ad- 
mirably fitted  for  piers  and  other  purposes  where  great 
durability  is  requisite,  and  from  which  large  blocks  were 
used  in  the  construction  of  Granton  Pier.  Aberdour 
House,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Morton,  is  a  spacious 
mansion,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Dour,  opposite  to  the 
ancient  castle,  and  surrounded  with  pleasure-grounds 
richly  wooded,  and  tastefully  laid  out.  Hillside  is  a 
stately  mansion,  commanding  views  of  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  the  opposite  coasts,  and  the  adjacent  scenery ; 
and  Whitehill  Cottage,  and  Cottlehill  House,  are  also 
finely  situated.  The  village  of  Aberdour  is  divided  into 
two  portions  called  Easter  and  Wester,  by  the  river 
Dour,  over  which  is  a  handsome  bridge  ;  and  to  the 
south  of  the  western  portion,  is  the  village  of  Newtown, 
consisting  of  Sea-side-place  and  Manse-street.  The 
beauty  of  the  surrounding  scenery,  the  numerous  retired 
walks  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  the  fine  sandy  beach, 
have  rendered  these  villages  places  of  favourite  resort 
during  the  summer  months,  for  bathing  ;  and  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  numerous  visiters,  lodging-houses 
are  extensively  provided.  Steamers  ply  twice  in  the 
day  from  Edinburgh,  during  summer,  and  pinnaces  daily 
from  Leith  harbour,  throughout  the  year. 
24 


The  manufacture  of  coarse  linen  was  formerly  carried 
on  extensively,  by  hand-loom  weavers ;  but  it  has 
greatly  decreased.  On  the  Dour,  about  a  mile  from  the 
old  village,  is  an  iron  forge,  in  which  spades,  shovels, 
and  other  implements  are  made,  and  of  which  the  great 
hammer  is  worked  by  water  power ;  there  are  also  a 
brick-work,  and  some  saw-mills  of  recent  establishment. 
Considerable  quantities  of  coal  are  shipped  from  the 
harbour,  for  exportation ;  and  several  foreign  vessels 
arrive  weekly,  for  freights  of  coal,  from  the  mines  :  be- 
tween the  harbour  and  Burntisland,  is  an  oyster-bed 
belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Morton,  which  is  leased  to  the 
fishermen  of  Newhaven.  A  fair  is  held  on  the  20th  of 
June,  chiefly  for  pleasure.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of 
the  parish  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  pres- 
bytery of  Dunfermline  and  synod  of  Fife.  The  minis- 
ter's stipend  is  £207.  14.  6.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £13  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Morton. 
The  church,  erected  in  1790,  and  repaired  in  1826,  is  a 
plain  building.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  mem- 
bers of  the  Free  Church.  The  parochial  school  is  at- 
tended by  about  100  children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34.  4.  4.,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average 
£30  per  annum.  An  hospital  was  founded  in  Wester 
Aberdour,  by  Anne,  Countess  of  Moray,  who  endowed  it 
for  four  aged  widows,  of  whom  three  are  appointed  by 
the  family,  and  one  by  the  clerk  of  the  signet ;  each  of 
the  widows  has  a  separate  apartment,  with  an  allowance 
of  coal  and  candles,  and  £5  per  annum  in  money.  On 
the  summit  of  a  hill  on  the  farm  of  Dalachy,  was  a  cairn, 
on  the  removal  of  which,  during  agricultural  improve- 
ments, were  found  a  stone  coffin  containing  a  human 
skeleton,  several  earthen  vessels  containing  human  bones, 
a  spear-head  of  copper,  and  various  other  relics.  The 
field  adjoining  the  garden  of  the  old  manse  is  called  the 
"  Sisters'  land,"  from  its  having  been  anciently  the  site 
of  a  Franciscan  nunnery.  The  place  gives  the  title  of 
Baron  to  the  Earl  of  Morton. 

ABERFELDY,  a  village,  chiefly  in  the  parish  of 
Dull,  and  partly  in  that  of  Logierait,  county  of 
Perth,  6|  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Kenmore  ;  containing  823 
inhabitants.  This  is  a  considerable  and  thriving  village, 
situated  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river  Tay,  and  on 
the  great  Highland  road.  It  is  surrounded  with  thick 
and  luxuriant  woods  of  hazel  and  birch  ;  and  in  its 
vicinity  are  the  falls  of  Moness,  remarkable  for  the 
beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  scenery,  and  the  majesty  of 
their  torrents,  which  rush  furiously  from  precipice  to 
precipice,  with  a  tremendous  and  fearful  roar :  the 
ascent  is  from  the  village,  and  is  attained  by  pleasing 
and  varied  walks,  with  seats  at  intervals  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  visiter.  The  river  is  here  crossed  by  a 
bridge,  erected  by  General  Wade.  There  are  places  of 
worship  for  Independents  and  members  of  the  Free 
Church  ;   and  a  savings'  bank. — See  Dull. 

ABERFOYLE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth,  14 
miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Doune,  and  20  (W.  by  N.)  from 
Stirling ;  containing  543  inhabitants.  This  place  de- 
rives its  name  from  the  situation  of  the  church,  near  the 
mouth  of  a  rivulet  called,  in  Gaelic,  the  Poll  or  Foile, 
which  forms  a  confluence  with  the  river  Forth,  at  this 
place  an  inconsiderable  stream.  The  lands  originally 
formed  part  of  the  possessions  of  the  ancient  family  of 
the  Grahams,  earls  of  Menteith,  and  on  failure  of  heirs 
male,  about  the  end  of  the   17th  century,  became  the 


A  B  E  11 


ABER 


property  of  the  ancestors  of  the  Duke  of  Montrose,  the 
present  sole  proprietor.  The  parish,  which  is  in  the 
south-western  portion  of  the  county,  forms  the  extreme 
precinct  of  the  Highlands,  in  that  direction,  and  extends 
for  nearly  fourteen  miles  from  east,  to  west,  and  from 
five  to  seven  miles  from  north  to  south  ;  comprising  the 
beautifully  romantic  vale  of  Aberfoyle,  which  abounds 
with  all  the  varieties  of  highland  scenery.  The  vale 
is  inclosed  by  lofty  mountains  on  the  one  side,  forming 
a  part  of  the  Grampian  range,  of  which  the  highest  in 
this  parish  are,  Bcnvenue,  having  an  elevation  of  2S00, 
and  Benchochan,  of  "000  feet  above  the  sea.  From 
both  these  mountains,  beneath  which  lies  the  celebrated 
scenery  of  the  Trosachs,  are  obtained  extensive  views  of 
the  "  windings  of  the  chase,"  and  the  most  interesting 
parts  of  the  surrounding  country  described  by  Sir  Wal- 
ter Scott,  in  his  poem  of  the  Lady  of  the  Lake 

In  the  vale  of  Aberfoyle  are  the  lochs  Katrine,  Ard, 
Chon,  Auchray,  and  Dronky.  Loch  Katrine,  which  is 
about  9  miles  in  length,  aud  one  mile  broad,  has  a  depth 
of  about  70  fathoms;  and  the  lofty,  and  in  some  parts 
precipitous,  acclivities  on  its  shores,  are  richly  wooded 
nearly  to  their  summits,  adding  greatly  to  the  beautiful 
scenery  for  which  it  is  so  eminently  distinguished. 
Loch  Ard,  about  4  miles  in  length,  and  one  mile  in 
breadth,  is  divided  into  two  portions,  the  Upper  and 
Lower  Ard,  connected  by  a  channel  200  yards  in  length  ; 
it  is  bounded,  on  one  side,  by  the  lofty  mountain  Ben 
Lomond,  of  which  the  richly-wooded  declivity  extends 
to  its  margin.  On  a  small  island  in  the  lake,  are  the 
ruins  of  an  ancient  castle  built  by  the  Duke  of  Albany, 
uncle  of  James  I.  of  Scotland.  Loch  Chon,  about  2| 
miles  in  length,  and  one  mile  in  breadth,  is  beautifully 
skirted  on  the  north-east  by  luxuriant  plantations,  and 
on  the  south-west,  by  the  mountain  of  Ben  Don,  1500 
feet  in  height,  and  of  which  the  sides  are  covered  with 
forests  of  aged  birch  and  mountain  ash.  Loch  Auchray, 
in  the  Trosachs,  and  Loch  Dronky,  which  is  two  miles 
long,  and  about  half  a  mile  broad,  are  both  finely  situ- 
ated, and  embellished  with  rich  plantations.  Between 
the  mountains,  are  several  small  valleys,  about  a  mile  in 
length,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width,  formerly 
covered  with  heath,  but  which  have  been  cleared,  and 
brought  into  cultivation.  The  river  Forth  has  its  source 
at  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish,  at  a  place  called 
Skid-N'uir,  or  "the  ridge  of  yew-trees,"  issuing  from  a 
copious  spring,  and  flowing  through  the  lochs  Chon  and 
Ard,  about  half  a  mile  to  the  east  of  which  latter,  it  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  the  Duchray,  a  stream  rising  near 
the  summit  of  Ben  Lomond,  and  which  is  also  regarded 
as  the  source  of  the  Forth,  though  the  former  is  the 
larger  of  the  two. 

The  arable  lands  bear  but,  a  very  inconsiderable  pro- 
portion to  the  pasture  and  woodlands.  The  upper,  or 
highland,  part  of  the  parish,  which  is  by  far  the  greater, 
is  divided  principally  into  sheep  farms,  upon  which 
scarcely  sufficient  grain  is  raised  to  supply  the  occupiers 
and  their  shepherds  ;  the  lower  grounds  are  chiefly  ara- 
ble, and  in  good  cultivation,  yielding  grain  of  every 
kind,  for  the  supply  of  the  parish,  and  also  for  sending 
to  the  markets.  The  soil  in  the  lower  portions  is  fertile, 
producing,  not  only  grain,  but  turnips,  with  the  various 
grasses,  and  excellent  crops  of  rye  and  clover  ;  the  farm- 
buildings,  with  very  few  exceptions,  are  commodious, 
and  mostly  of  modern  erection,  and  the  lands  are  well 
Vol.  I.— 25 


drained.  The  sheep  are  of  the  black-faced  breed,  and 
great  attention  is  paid  to  their  improvement ;  the  cattle 
on  the  upland  farms  are  of  the  black  Highland  breed, 
and  in  addition  to  those  reared  on  the  lands,  great 
numbers  are  pastured  during  the  winter,  for  which  many 
of  the  farms  are  well  adapted  by  the  shelter  afforded  by 
the  woods  ;  the  cattle  on  the  lowland  farms  are  chiefly 
of  the  Ayrshire  breed.  The  whole  of  the  woods,  from 
the  head  of  Loch  Chon  to  the  loch  of  Monteith,  in  the 
parish  of  Port  of  Monteith,  are  the  property  of  the  Duke 
of  Montrose  ;  they  consist  of  oak,  ash,  birch,  mountain- 
ash,  alder,  hazel,  and  willow,  and  are  divided  into  twenty- 
four  portions,  of  which  one  is  felled  every  year,  as 
it  attains  a  growth  of  24  years,  within  which  period 
the  whole  are  cut  down  and  renewed,  in  succession. 
On  the  west  side  of  the  mountains,  is  limestone  of  very 
superior  quality,  of  a  blue  colour,  with  veins  of  white, 
and  susceptible  of  a  high  polish ;  it  is  extensively 
wrought  near  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish,  for 
building,  and  for  manure,  solely  by  the  tenants  of  the 
several  farms.  To  the  west  of  the  limestone  range,  is 
a  mountain  consisting  almost  entirely  of  slate,  occurring 
in  regular  strata,  in  the  quarries  of  which  about  20 
men  are  employed.  The  prevailing  rocks  are  conglo- 
merate and  trap,  or  whinstone  ;  but  the  want  of  water 
carriage,  and  the  distance  of  the  markets,  operate  ma- 
terially to  diminish  their  value. 

The  village  is  situated  near  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  parish  :  the  making  of  pyroligneous  acid  affords 
employment  to  a  few  persons.  A  post-office  has  been 
established,  as  a  branch  of  that  of  Doune  ;  and  fairs  are 
held  in  April,  for  cattle  ;  on  the  first  Friday  in  August, 
for  lambs  ;  and  on  the  third  Thursday  in  October,  for 
hiring  servants.  The  lakes  and  rivers  abound  with 
trout,  pike,  perch,  and  eels  ;  and  char  is  also  found  in 
Loch  Katrine.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of 
Dunblane  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling.  The  mi- 
nister's stipend  is  £158.  6.  8.,  of  which  part  is  paid 
from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  contain- 
ing 15  Scottish  acres  of  good  land,  partly  arable  and 
partly  meadow  ;  patron,  the  Duke  of  Montrose.  The 
church,  built  in  1774,  and  thoroughly  repaired  in  1839, 
is  a  plain  structure,  containing  250  sittings :  divine 
service  is  also  performed  occasionally,  by  the  minister, 
in  the  schoolroom.  The  parochial  school  is  well  at- 
tended ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £28,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £6  per  annum. 
Near  the  manse  are  the  remains  of  a  Druidical  circle, 
consisting  of  ten  upright  stones,  with  one  of  much 
larger  dimensions  in  the  centre.  The  Rev.  James 
Richardson,  whose  son  was  professor  of  humanity  at 
Glasgow  ;  and  the  Rev.  Patrick  Graham,  eminent  for 
the  variety  and  extent  of  his  talents,  and  employed  in 
revising  an  edition  of  the  Sacred  Scriptures  in  the  Gaelic 
language,  were  ministers  of  the  parish. 

ABERLADY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Hadding- 
ton, 4  miles  (X.  \V.)  from  Haddington ;  containing 
1050  inhabitants,  of  whom  537  are  in  the  village.  This 
place  is  situated  on  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  near  the 
mouth  of  the  small  river  Peffer,  supposed  to  have  been 
anciently  called  the  Leddie,  from  which  circumstance 
the  name  Aberlady  is  said  to  have  been  derived.  A 
strong  castle  was  built  here  in  1518,  by  John,  grand- 
son of  Sir  Archibald  Douglas,  of  Kilspindy,  treasurer 

E 


ABER 


A  B  E  R 


of  Scotland  during  the  minority  of  James  V.,  but  who, 
partaking  in  the  rebellion  of  his  family,  forfeited  his 
estates,  and  died  in  exile.  The  parish  is  bounded  on 
the  north  and  north-west  by  the  Frith,  and  comprises 
about  4000  acres,  chiefly  under  tillage,  with  very  little 
permanent  pasture,  and  only  a  small  portion  of  wood- 
land. The  surface  is  generally  flat,  but  having  a  very 
gradual  slope,  from  the  coast  to  the  south  and  south- 
east ;  and  though  attaining  no  considerable  elevation, 
even  at  the  highest  point,  it  still  commands  a  richly- 
varied  and  extensive  prospect  over  the  Frith  of  Forth, 
in  its  widest  expanse,  the  Pentland  hills,  the  city  of 
Edinburgh,  with  its  castle,  and  the  Grampian  hills. 
The  soil  near  the  coast  is  light  and  sandy,  in  some  parts 
clayey,  and  on  the  more  elevated  lands  a  rich  and  fertile 
loam;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  improved  state; 
tile-draining  has  been  extensively  practised,  and  on  all 
of  the  farms  are  threshing-mills,  of  which  many  are  driven 
by  steam.  Comparatively  little  attention  has  been  paid 
to  the  rearing  of  live  stock  ;  but  the  number  of  sheep 
and  cattle  is  increasing,  and  it.  is  not  improbable  that, 
in  due  time,  the  farmers  will  be  distinguished  for  im- 
provements in  the  breeds  of  stock.  The  chief  substrata 
are  limestone  and  whinstone,  and  coal  is  supposed  to 
exist  in  some  of  the  lands  ;  the  limestone  is  not  worked, 
but  along  the  coast,  the  whinstone  is  quarried  exten- 
sively ;  clay  of  good  quality  for  bricks  and  tiles  is 
found,  and  about  twenty  persons  are  employed  in  works 
for  that  purpose.  Ballencrieff,  the  seat  of  Lord  Elibank, 
is  a  handsome  mansion,  in  a  richly-planted  demesne, 
commanding  some  fine  views  of  the  surrounding  country. 
Gosford,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Wemyss  and  March, 
and  upon  which  immense  sums  have  been  expended, 
was  anciently  a  possession  of  the  noble  family  of  Ache- 
son,  whose  titles  as  barons,  viscounts,  and  earls,  have 
been  chosen  from  this  place,  where  was  formerly  a  vil- 
lage that  no  longer  exists.  The  mansion  is  beautifully 
situated,  and  contains  an  extensive  and  choice  collection 
of  paintings,  by  the  most  eminent  masters  of  the  Flemish 
and  Italian  schools.  Luffness  is  an  ancient  mansion, 
considerably  enlarged  and  improved,  but  still  retaining 
much  of  its  original  character ;  the  grounds  are  well 
planted,  and  laid  out  with  exquisite  taste.  The  village 
is  pleasantly  situated,  near  the  influx  of  the  Peffer  into 
the  Frith,  and  is  neatly  built ;  a  subscription  library 
has  been  established,  and  there  is  also  a  parochial  lend- 
ing library.  At  this  part  of  the  coast  is  a  small  haven, 
where  vessels  of  seventy  tons  may  anchor  at  spring 
tides,  but  from  which  their  return  to  the  sea  is  difficult 
when  the  wind  happens  to  be  westerly ;  the  haven  is 
the  port  of  Haddington,  but  the  trade  carried  on  is 
insignificant. 

At  a  very  remote  period,  there  appears  to  have  been 
an  establishment  of  Culdees  near  the  village,  which  was 
probably  subordinate  to  the  monastery  of  Dunkeld,  on 
the  erection  of  which  place  into  a  bishopric,  David  I. 
conferred  the  lands  of  Aberlady  and  Kilspindy  on  the 
bishop,  in  whose  possession  they  remained  till  the  Re- 
formation. Gavin  Douglas,  Bishop  of  Dunkeld,  granted 
these  lands  to  Sir  Archibald  Douglas,  in  1522,  and  in 
1589,  they  were  resigned  to  the  crown,  and  the  church 
of  Aberlady  became  a  rectory,  independent  of  the  dio- 
cese ;  the  patronage  remained  with  the  Douglas  family, 
from  whom  it  passed  to  others,  and  ultimately  to  the 
Earl  of  Wemyss,  the  present  patron.  The  parish  is  in 
26 


the  presbytery  of  Haddington  and  synod  of  Lothian 
and  Tweeddale ;  the  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is 
£280.  11.  11.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£27.  10.  per  annum.  The  church,  rebuilt  in  1773,  is  a 
neat  and  substantial  edifice,  adapted  for  a  congregation 
of  525  persons ;  four  handsome  silver  cups,  for  the 
communion  service,  were  presented  by  the  Wedderburn 
family.  The  parochial  school  affords  a  liberal  course  of 
instruction ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4|.,  with 
£34  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  Till  very  lately, 
there  were  some  remains  of  the  castle  of  Kilspindy, 
already  noticed,  situated  between  the  village  and  the 
sea-shore  ;  but  they  have  now  totally  disappeared.  On 
the  margin  of  a  small  stream  which  separates  the  parish 
from  that  of  Gladsmuir,  are  the  ruins  of  Redhouse 
Castle,  apparently  a  place  of  great  strength,  the  erection 
of  which  is  referred  to  the  16th  century;  the  lands  be- 
longed, in  the  15th  century,  to  the  family  of  Laing,  of 
which  one  was  treasurer  of  Scotland  in  1465,  bishop 
of  Glasgow  in  14/3,  and  high  chancellor  in  1483.  The 
more  ancient  portion  of  the  house  of  Luffness  was  for- 
merly inclosed  within  a  fortification,  raised  to  intercept 
the  supplies  sent  by  sea  to  the  English  garrison  at  Had- 
dington ;  the  fortification  was  demolished  in  1551,  but 
the  house  was  preserved.  Near  the  site  was  once  a  con- 
vent of  Carmelite  friars,  to  whom  David  II.  granted  a 
charter ;  at  Ballencrieff,  and  at  Gosford,  were  ancient 
hospitals,  of  which  there  are  now  no  remains.  Along 
the  coast,  stone  coffins  and  human  bones  have  been  fre- 
quently dug  up,  supposed  to  have  been  those  of  persons 
slain  in  some  conflict  near  the  spot. 

ABERLEMNO,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar, 
6  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Forfar;  containing,  with  the 
chapelry  of  Auldbar,  1023  inhabitants.  This  place 
is  named  from  the  small  river  Lemno,  the  word  Aber- 
lemno  signifying  "  the  mouth  of  the  Lemno,"  which 
stream,  after  flowing  a  few  miles  towards  the  south- 
west, and  winding  northerly  around  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  hill  of  Oathlaw,  strikes  off  to  the  east, 
and  falls  into  the  Esk,  about  a  mile  from  its  source. 
The  parish  is  separated  on  the  north,  by  the  Esk,  from 
those  of  Tannadice  and  Careston,  and  measures  about  6 
miles  in  length,  and  5  in  breadth,  in  some  places.  It  forms 
part  of  a  hilly  district  situated  towards  the  south  of 
Strathmore,  the  higher  portions,  which  are  bleak,  being 
principally  covered  with  broom  and  heath,  while  the 
lower  grounds  are  generally  fertile,  though  in  one  di- 
rection subject  to  inundations  from  the  Esk.  The  hill 
of  Turin  is  the  highest,  the  others  attaining  only  a 
moderate  elevation  ;  it  rises  about  800  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  commanding  extensive  prospects,  and 
contributing  greatly,  by  the  plantations  of  fir  on  its 
slope,  to  the  improvement  of  the  scenery.  The  lake 
of  Balgavies,  on  the  southern  boundary,  affords  good 
pike  and  perch  angling,  and  yielded  formerly  a  large 
supply  of  marl  for  manuring  the  lands.  The  inhabit- 
ants, with  the  exception  of  a  few  engaged  in  weaving 
and  in  quarrying,  follow  agricultural  pursuits,  and  the 
farmers  pay  much  attention  to  the  rearing  of  cattle, 
considerable  numbers  of  which,  with  large  quantities  of 
potatoes,  are  sent  to  the  London  market.  There  are 
four  meal  and  barley  mills,  driven  by  water,  and  all  the 
large  farms  have  threshing-mills.  Several  quarries  of 
fine  slate  stone,  of  a  greyish  colour,  are  in  operation,  sup- 
plying a  good  material  for  building. 


A  B  E  R 


ABER 


The  neighbourhood  abounds  with  old  castles,  and  the 
remains  of  strong  places,  some  of  which  are  still  in- 
habited, and  are  beautified  with  trees  of  the  finest  wood 
in  the  parish,  especially  the  houses  of  Auldbar,  Turin, 
and  Balgavies  ;  the  first  of  these  consists  of  an  ancient 
and  a  modern  portion,  and  is  inhabited  ;  that  of  Balga- 
vies is  comparatively  modern,  a  single  vault  only  of  the 
ancient  structure  remaining.  The  house  of  Carsegownie 
has  been  lately  partially  stripped  of  its  antiquated  and 
feudal  appearance  ;  but  the  castle  of  Flemmington,  a 
little  to  the  east  of  the  church,  retains  all  the  distin- 
guishing features  of  the  predatory  era  in  which  it  was 
erected.  The  Auldbar  turnpike-road,  joining  the  rail- 
way station  of  the  same  name  to  Brechin,  passes 
through  the  place,  as  well  as  a  portion  of  the  turnpike- 
road  from  Forfar  to  Montrose  ;  and  there  is  a  parish 
road  from  Forfar  to  Brechin,  running  in  a  north-easterly 
direction,  through  the  whole  length  of  the  district.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Forfar  and  synod  of 
Angus  and  Mearns,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown 
and  the  family  of  Smythe  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£228.  6.  6.,  with  a  manse,  and  glebe  valued  at  £15  per 
annum.  The  church  was  built  upon  the  old  foundation, 
from  about  3  feet  above  the  ground,  in  the  year  1722, 
and  accommodates  450  persons  with  sittings.  The  pa- 
rochial school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  fees  producing 
between  £12  and  £14.  There  is  a  library  of  miscella- 
neous works.  The  most  interesting  relic  of  antiquity  is 
the  ruin  of  the  castle  of  Melgund,  said  to  have  been  built 
by  Cardinal  Beaton,  and  still  indicating,  by  its  extent 
and  strength,  its  former  magnificence  :  on  the  sum- 
mit of  Turin  hill,  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  fort 
called  Camp  Castle,  commanding  most  extensive  views, 
and  supposed  to  have  been  raised  as  a  watch-tower. 
There  are  numerous  tumuli  and  cairns,  and  several 
obelisks  or  monumental  stones,  ornamented  with  va- 
rious devices,  one  of  the  chief  of  which  is  in  the  church- 
yard, exhibiting  on  one  side  a  cross  in  bold  relief  covered 
with  flowers,  and  on  the  other  numerous  martial  figures, 
thought  to  be  memorials  of  important  military  achiev- 
ments  in  days  of  old.  The  title  of  Viscount  Melgund  is 
borne  by  the  Earl  of  Minto,  proprietor  of  nearly  half 
of  the  parish. 

ABERLOUR,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Banff,  5 
miles  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Dufftown,  on  the  road  from  Elgin 
to  Grantown ;  containing,  with  the  village  of  Charles- 
town,  1352  inhabitants.  This  parish,  formerly  called 
Skirdustan,  signifying,  in  the  Gaelic  tongue,  "  the 
division  of  Dustan,"  its  tutelary  saint,  derived  its  pre- 
sent name  from  its  situation  at  the  mouth  of  a  noisy 
burn,  which  discharges  itself  into  the  river  Spey.  It  is 
situated  in  the  western  part  of  the  county,  and  extends 
for  nearly  seven  miles  along  the  south  bank  of  the  Spey, 
from  the  hill  of  Carron  on  the  west,  to  the  mouth  of 
the  river  Fiddich  on  the  east.  The  surface  is  very 
uneven  ;  towards  the  southern  part  is  an  almost  un- 
broken chain  of  mountains,  consisting  of  the  Blue  Hill, 
the  East  and  West  Conval  hills,  the  mountain  of  Ben- 
rinnes,  and  the  broad  hill  of  Cairnakay,  with  part  of 
the  hill  of  Carron,  on  the  border  of  the  Spey,  and  sepa- 
rated from  Benrinnes  by  a  narrow  valley.  A  deep 
and  narrow  pass  called  Glackharnis,  of  great  length, 
and  of  uniform  breadth  at  the  bottom,  separates  the 
mountain  of  Benrinnes  from  the  Conval  hills,  and  is 
27 


remarkable  for  the  great  height  and  regularity  of  its 
declivity  on  both  sides.  The  mountain,  as  its  name 
implies,  is  precipitous  in  its  ascent,  and  sharp  on  the 
summit,  and  has  an  elevation  of  2*56  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  of  1876  feet  from  its  base,  being  the  highest  in 
the  county  for  many  miles  around.  From  the  top,  are 
seen  the  Grampian  hills  to  the  south,  the  interesting 
valley  and  hills  of  Glenavon  to  the  west,  and  to  the 
north  the  mountains  of  Ross,  Sutherland,  and  Caith- 
ness ;  it  embraces  a  fine  view  of  the  sea,  for  several 
miles,  along  the  coasts  of  Moray  and  Banffshire,  and 
forms  a  conspicuous  landmark  for  mariners.  The  Con- 
val hills  are  spherical  and  of  similar  form,  and  profusely 
covered  with  heath  ;  and  between  these  and  the  Ben- 
rinnes, is  a  fine  valley,  the  south  part  of  which,  consist- 
ing of  sloping  land,  including  the  district  of  Edinvillie, 
is  divided  on  the  north-east,  by  a  brook,  from  the  lands 
of  Allachie,  and  on  the  north  from  the  district  of  Ruth- 
rie,  by  the  burn  of  Aberlour.  To  the  north-west  of 
Ruthrie,  is  the  district  of  Kinnermony  ;  the  lands  of 
Aberlour  are  watered  by  two  rivulets,  descending  from 
the  Blue  hill,  which,  uniting,  form  the  burn  of  Allachoy, 
which  separates  them  from  the  district  of  Drumfurrich. 
These  several  districts  contain  some  good  tracts  of 
holm  land,  and  form  the  principal  arable  grounds  of  the 
parish,  of  which,  upon  the  whole,  not  more  than  one- 
half  is  under  cultivation.  The  soil,  near  the  river,  is  a 
rich  deep  loam,  mixed  with  sand  ;  towards  the  hills,  is  a 
deep  clay,  lying  on  a  substratum  of  rough  gravel,  and 
covered  with  a  thin  alluvial  soil ;  and  towards  the 
centre  of  the  parish,  is  a  richer  alluvial  soil,  resting  on 
a  bed  of  granite.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Glenrinnes, 
limestone  is  quarried  for  agricultural  purposes,  and,  by 
many  of  the  farmers,  burnt  upon  their  own  lands.  The 
principal  crops  are,  barley,  oats,  wheat,  and  peas  ;  and 
the  barley  produced  here  weighs  more,  per  bushel,  than 
that  of  the  heavier  soils  of  the  adjoining  parishes.  The 
Morayshire  breed  of  black-cattle  is  raised,  and  the 
sheep  are  of  the  hardy  black-faced  kind  ;  several  of  the 
farms  are  inclosed  with  fences  of  stone,  and  the  farm- 
buildings  generally  are  substantial  and  commodious. 
Alexander  Grant,  Esq.,  is  the  chief  resident  proprietor, 
whose  handsome  seat  of  Aberlour  is  in  the  parish  ;  on 
the  estate,  a  column  of  the  Tuscan  order  has  lately  been 
erected.  There  are  several  flourishing  plantations  of 
fir  in  the  hilly  districts ;  and  of  elm  and  ash  near 
the  river,  the  banks  of  which  are,  in  some  places,  deco- 
rated with  birch-trees  of  very  luxuriant  growth. 

The  river  Spey,  from  the  rapidity  of  its  current,  and 
the  narrowness  of  its  channel,  frequently  overflows  its 
banks,  and  damages  the  neighbouring  lands.  In  1829, 
a  very  destructive  flood  occurred,  in  which  the  waters 
rose  to  the  height  of  nearly  twenty  feet  above  the  ordi- 
nary level,  sweeping  away  the  entire  soil  of  several  fields, 
with  all  their  crops,  and  leaving  upon  others  a  deposit 
of  sand  and  rough  gravel,  to  the  depth  of  several  feet. 
A  cottage  and  offices  were  carried  away ;  and  the  dry 
stone  arches  which  formed  the  approach  to  the  bridge  of 
Craig-Ellachie,  were  entirely  destroyed,  leaving  only  a 
few  yards  of  masonry  on  which  the  end  of  the  arch  rested. 
This  bridge,  which  consists  of  one  metal  arch,  more 
than  160  feet  in  span,  abutting  on  a  solid  rock  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river,  and  supported  on  the  Aberlour 
side  by  a  strong  pier  of  masonry,  built  on  piles,  was 
erected  in  1815,  at  an  expense  of  £S000,  of  which  one- 

E  2 


A  B  E  R 


A  B  E  R 


half  was  defrayed  by  government,  and  the  other  by 
subscription.  The  rivers  Spey  and  Fiddieh  afford  ex- 
cellent salmon  and  trout ;  the  fishing  season  commences 
in  February,  and  closes  in  September,  and  the  parish 
also  abounds  with  various  kinds  of  game.  On  the  burn 
of  Aberlour,  about  a  mile  above  its  influx  into  the  Spey, 
is  a  fine  cascade  called  the  Lynn  of  Ruthrie,  in  which 
the  water  falls  from  a  height  of  30  feet,  and,  being 
broken  in  its  descent  by  a  projecting  platform  of  granite 
rock,  which  is  richly  covered  with  birch-trees  and  various 
shrubs,  presents  an  interesting  and  highly  picturesque 
appearance.  A  large  distillery  was  formerly  carried  on 
at  Aberlour,  which  afforded  a  market  for  grain  to  the 
neighbouring  farmers  ;  and  fairs  are  held  annually,  in 
the  recently-erected  village  of  Charlestown.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  of  the  parish  are  under  the  presbytery 
of  Aberlour  and  synod  of  Moray  ;  Lord  Fife  is  pa- 
tron, and  the  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £287.  8.  2. 
The  church,  a  well-arranged  structure,  erected  in  1812, 
is  situated  to  the  north  of  Charlestown,  at  a  distance  of 
about  300  yards  from  the  ruins  of  the  old  church,  near 
the  influx  of  the  burn  of  Aberlour  into  the  Spey ;  Mr. 
Grant  has  lately  made  an  addition  to  the  length  of  the 
edifice,  and  erected  a  handsome  tower.  In  the  valley  of 
Glenrinnes  is  a  missionary  establishment,  and  a  chapel 
of  ease  has  been  erected,  of  which  the  minister  has  a 
stipend  of  £60  per  annum,  royal  bounty,  with  a  manse, 
glebe,  and  other  accommodations  provided  by  the  heri- 
tors. The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the 
Latin  language,  arithmetic,  and  the  elementary  mathe- 
matics ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4|.,  with  a 
house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £40. 

ABERLUTHNOTT,  Kincardine.— See  Marykirk. 

ABERNETHY,  a  parish,  in  the  counties  of  Inver- 
ness and  Elgin,  5  miles  (S.  W.  by  S.)  from  Grantown  ; 
containing,  with  Kincardine,  1S32  inhabitants,  of  whom 
10S3  are  in  Abernethy  proper.  This  parish,  to  which 
that  of  Kincardine  was  annexed  about  the  time  of  the 
Reformation,  derives  its  name  from  Aber,  signifying  in 
Gaelic,  in  conjunction  with  Nethy,  the  "termination  of 
Nethy,"  which  is  descriptive  of  the  situation  of  the 
church,  near  the  entrance  of  that  river  into  the  Spey  : 
Kincardine,  or  Kinie-chairdin,  implies  the  "  clan  of 
friends."  The  united  parish,  which  is  15  miles  long,  and 
from  10  to  12  broad,  contains  about  120,000  acres,  of 
which  about  3000  are  in  tillage,  40,000  forest  and  plan- 
tation, and  77,000  uncultivated.  It  extends  from  the 
borders  of  Cromdale  to  Rothiemurchus,  and  the  lower 
end  of  it  falls  within  the  county  of  Inverness  ;  it  is 
bounded  on  the  west,  throughout  its  entire  length,  by 
the  river  Spey.  The  surface  is  mountainous  and  woody, 
interspersed  with  corn-fields  ;  the  only  rivers  are  the 
Spey  and  the  Nethy,  the  latter  of  which,  in  dry  weather, 
is  merely  a  brook,  but,  when  swollen,  is  of  sufficient  size 
to  allow  of  the  passage  of  floats  of  timber  into  the  Spey. 
There  are  several  lakes,  also,  in  Kincardine,  the  chief 
whereof  is  the  oval  basin  in  Glenmore  forest,  which  is 
nearly  2  miles  in  diameter.  The  soil  in  some  parts  is 
deep  raith,  but  frequently  thin  and  dry,  and  in  some 
places  wet  and  cold  ;  wood  is  abundant,  and  about 
7000  acres  on  one  estate  are  under  fir  of  natural  growth. 
Some  farms  exhibit  the  appearance  of  superior  husban- 
dry, having  substantial  and  commodious  buildings,  with 
implements  of  the  best  kind;  and  improvements  have 
been  carried  on  for  a  considerable  time,  to  the  advance 
28 


of  which,  the  plentiful  supply  of  lime  in  the  parish,  and 
of  native  fuel  for  preparing  it,  has  greatly  contributed  : 
every  farmer,  however  small  his  ground,  has  a  lime-kiln 
in  use.  Parallel  to  the  river  Spey,  extends  a  range  of  moun- 
tains, a  branch  of  the  Grampians,  which  exhibits  a  great 
variety  of  rock ;  commencing  with  the  well-known 
Cairnegorm,  which  is  its  southern  extremity,  granite 
stretches  to  the  north,  for  several  miles ;  then  appears 
primary  limestone,  and  this  is  succeeded  by  trap  and 
micaceous  schist. 

A  regular  "  manufacture"  of  timber  has  been  car- 
ried on  in  the  Abernethy  district,  for  more  than  60 
years.  The  Duke  of  Gordon,  in  1784,  sold  his  fir-woods 
of  Glenmore,  in  the  barony  of  Kincardine,  for  £10,000 
sterling,  to  an  English  company,  who  exhausted  them  ; 
and  from  the  forest  of  Abernethy,  there  are  still  for- 
warded yearly,  by  large  rafts  in  the  river  Spey,  great 
quantities  of  timber,  to  Garmouth  or  Speymouth,  of 
which  much  has  been  formed  into  vessels  of  large  bur- 
then, at  the  former  place,  and  considerable  quantities 
sent  to  the  royal  dockyards  in  England.  The  trade  was 
immense  during  the  war,  but  is  now  considerably  dimi- 
nished, although  still  employing  a  large  number  of  the 
population.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the 
presbytery  of  Abernethy  and  synod  of  Moray  ;  the  Earl 
of  Seafield  is  patron,  and  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is 
£234.  2.  1.,  with  a  glebe  of  the  annual  value  of  £7. 
The  church  in  the  district  of  Abernethy,  a  commodious 
structure,  with  seats  for  600  persons,  was  erected  eighty 
years  since  ;  and  that  of  Kincardine,  a  well-built  and 
finished  edifice,  7  miles  distant  from  the  manse,  con- 
taining about  330  sittings,  in  J  804.  There  is  a  parochial 
school,  in  which  Latin,  mathematics,  and  the  usual 
branches  of  education  are  taught,  and  of  which  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £25.  13.,  with  £22  fees,  &c.  and 
a  house  ;  and  a  Gaelic  school  at  Kincardine  is  chiefly 
supported  by  £17  a  year  from  the  Society  for  Propaga- 
ting Christian  Knowledge.  Several  ancient  remains  are 
to  be  seen,  particularly  of  Druidical  circles  ;  and  on 
rising  ground,  near  the  church,  is  an  old  building,  of 
which,  however,  no  satisfactory  account  has  ever  been 
afforded.  The  topaz  called  cairngorm  is  found  in  con- 
siderable numbers  in  the  mountain  of  that  name  ;  and 
at  the  end  of  Lochaven  is  an  interesting  natural  curi- 
osity, in  the  form  of  a  cave,  commonly  called  Chlach- 
dhian,  or  "  the  sheltering  stone,"  and  which  is  sur- 
rounded by  vast  mountains.  It  is  sufficient  to  contain  a 
number  of  persons,  and  people  take  shelter  in  it  fre- 
quently, for  security  from  rain  and  wind,  after  hunting 
or  fishing,  and  sometimes  being  driven  by  necessity. 

ABERNETHY,  a  burgh  and  parish,  partly  in  the 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife,  but  chiefly  in  the 
county  of  Perth,  3  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Newburgh  ; 
containing,  with  the  village  of  Aberdargie,  1920  inha-. 
bitauts,  of  whom  827  are  in  the  town  of  Abernethy. 
This  place,  originally  called  Abernethyn,  a  word  signi- 
fying "  the  town  upon  the  Nethy,"  is  supposed,  by  some, 
to  have  derived  its  name  from  the  small  stream  flowing 
through  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  denominated  Nethy 
from  the  old  British  term  neith,  or  nid,  implying  a  "  turn- 
ing" or  '-  whirling  stream."  But  others  are  of  opinion 
that  the  appellation  has  been  received  from  Nectan  or 
Nethan,  one  of  the  Pictish  kings,  who  founded  the  place, 
and  of  whose  kingdom  it  was  the  capital.  The  most 
ancient  and  credible  of  the  Scottish  historians  agree  in 


ABER 


ABER 


representing  this  locality  as  the  metropolis  of  the 
Pictish  nation,  both  in  civil  and  religious  matters  ;  but 
the  particulars  relating  to  the  erection  of  the  church 
are  variously  described.  The  Pictish  Chronicle  states 
the  edifice  to  have  been  raised  by  Nethan,  or  Nectan  I., 
about  the  year  456,  as  a  sacrifice  offered  to  God 
and  St.  Bridget,  for  the  recovery  of  his  kingdom  ;  and 
Fordun  asserts,  that  St.  Patrick  himself  introduced  St. 
Bridget  and  her  nine  nuns  into  the  religious  establish- 
ment of  Abernethy.  Others,  however,  are  of  opinion, 
that  the  church  was  founded  and  endowed  towards  the 
close  of  the  6th  century,  by  King  Garnard  M'Dourmach, 
or  in  the  beginning  of  the  7th  century,  by  Nethan  II., 
his  immediate  successor.  The  church,  shortly  after- 
wards, was  made  the  head  of  an  episcopal  see,  and  here 
was  the  residence  of  the  metropolitan  of  the  Pictish 
kingdom,  and  probably  of  all  Scotland,  until  the  Picts 
were  subdued  by  one  of  the  Kenneths,  and  both  the 
see,  and  the  residence  of  the  bishop,  were  transferred  to 
St.  Andrew's,  the  head  of  which  was  afterwards  acknow- 
ledged as  the  national  bishop.  Abernethy  was  subse- 
quently comprehended  in  the  bishopric  of  Dunblane, 
founded  in  the  12th  century,  by  King  David  I.,  out  of 
the  national  bishopric  of  St.  Andrew's.  After  the  re- 
moval of  the  see  from  this  place,  the  church  became 
collegiate,  and  was  in  the  possession  of  the  Culdees,  of 
whom  but  little  is  known  with  certainty,  except  that 
this  parish  was  their  principal  seat,  and  that  here  they 
had  a  university  for  the  education  of  youth,  in  which 
was  taught  the  whole  of  the  sciences,  as  far  as  they 
were  then  known.  In  the  12th  century,  by  a  charter  of 
King  William  the  Lion  and  of  Lawrence  de  Abernethy, 
the  church  and  advowson  of  Abernethy,  with  its  perti- 
nents, were  conveyed  to  the  abbey  of  Arbroath  ;  and 
about  the  year  1240,  the  altarage  of  the  church,  with 
certain  lands,  was  given  to  the  Bishop  of  Dunblane, 
who,  in  return,  among  other  things,  engaged  to  provide 
for  the  service  of  the  church,  to  enrol  it  among  his  pre- 
bendal  institutions,  and  to  instal  the  abbot  of  Arbroath, 
as  a  prebendary  or  canon,  with  a  manse  and  privileges 
similar  to  those  of  the  other  canons.  The  ancient  mo- 
nastery, in  12J3,  became  a  priory  of  canons  regular,  and 
a  cell  of  Inchaffray  ;  all  the  Culdee  institutions  yielded 
to  the  increasing  power  of  the  Romish  church,  and  this 
priory  seems  to  have  been  afterwards  converted  into  a 
provostry  or  college  of  secular  priests,  and  the  church, 
with  a  provost,  was  a  collegiate  establishment.  The 
church,  at  the  Reformation,  was  valued  at  £273  per 
annum,  and  was  afterwards  a  parsonage. 

The  civil  occupancy  of  the  principal  lands  appears  to 
have  taken  place  at  an  early  period ;  in  the  12th  century, 
Orme,  the  son  of  Hugh,  received  the  lands  of  Abernethy, 
from  King  William  the  Lion,  and  from  them  both 
himself  and  his  posterity  took  their  name.  Alexander 
de  Abernethy,  a  descendant,  swore  fealty  to  Edward  I. 
in  1292,  and  was  appointed  by  Edward  II.,  in  1310, 
warden  of  the  counties  between  the  Forth  and  the 
Grampians,  but  his  lands  are  supposed  to  have  been 
forfeited  after  the  battle  of  Bannockburn,  or  to  have 
been  continued  in  the  family  only  by  the  marriage  of  his 
daughters,  the  eldest  of  whom,  Margaret,  was  united  to 
John  Stewart,  Earl  of  Angus,  who  thus  obtained  the 
lordship  of  Abernethy,  and  whose  grand-daughter, 
Margaret  Stewart,  married  William,  Earl  of  Douglas. 
This  family  of  Douglas,  during  the  earlier  periods  of 
29 


their  history,  were  numerous  and  powerful,  and  are  sup- 
posed to  have  resided  near  the  house  of  Carpow  ;  and 
many  of  the  most  illustrious  branches  of  the  earls  of 
Angus  have  been  interred  in  this  spot.  It  was  at  Aber- 
nethy that  Malcolm  Canmore  did  homage  to  William 
the  Conqueror,  according  to  the  account  of  Fordun, 
Winton,  and  others  ,  but  so  many  different  opinions 
exist  on  the  point  as  to  render  it  altogether  doubtful. 

The  town,  which  is  of  great  antiquity,  and,  by  ruins 
discovered  eastward  of  it,  is  supposed  to  have  been  once 
much  more  extensive,  is  situated  near  the  confluence  of 
the  Tay  and  Earn  rivers,  on  the  south-eastern  border  of 
the  county,  and  adjoining  Fifeshire  in  that  direction,  in 
which  county  a  small  portion  of  it  stands.  The  lands 
in  the  vicinity,  and  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the 
parish,  are  interesting  and  beautiful,  consisting  of  large 
tracts,  highly  cultivated,  forming,  on  the  north,  a  por- 
tion of  the  rich  vale  of  Strathearn,  enlivened  by  the 
rivers  ;  on  the  south,  the  lands  are,  for  the  most  part, 
hilly,  occupying  about  two-thirds  of  the  whole  area,  and 
belonging  to  the  picturesque  range  of  the  Ochils.  About. 
a  mile  to  the  east,  is  the  mansion  of  Carpow,  a  neat 
modern  structure  ;  a  little  beyond  it,  is  a  small  stream 
which  separates  Abernethy  from  the  parish  ofNewburgh, 
in  Fifeshire,  and  to  the  west  is  the  mansion  called  Ayton 
House,  skirted  by  the  Farg  rivulet,  which  joins  the 
Earn  at  Colfargie,  after  flowing  through  the  romantic 
scenery  of  Glenfarg.  Not  far  from  this,  in  the  south- 
western district,  situated  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from 
the  town,  is  Castle  Law,  a  steep  grassy  elevation,  600 
feet  high,  the  summit  of  which  is  the  seat  of  a  vitrified 
fort.  It  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  Strathearn  and 
the  carse  of  Gowrie,  with  the  interjacent  Tay,  where 
there  is  an  island  named  Mugdrum,  belongiug  to  this 
parish,  a  mile  in  length,  comprehending  35  acres  of  the 
richest  arable  land,  and  which  is  thronged,  in  autumn 
and  winter,  with  various  kinds  of  water-fowl,  and  some- 
times is  visited  by  very  fine  wild  swans. 

The  town  contains  a  library,  but  has  no  other  insti- 
tutions of  interest ;  a  large  portion  of  the  inhabitants, 
both  male  and  female,  as  well  as  those  residing  in  the 
villages  of  Aberdargie  and  Glenfoot,  in  the  parish,  are 
employed  in  weaving  linen-yarn,  for  the  manufacturers 
of  Newburgh.  The  trade  consists  chiefly  in  the  sale  of 
grain  and  potatoes,  the  former  being  sent  to  the  weekly 
market  of  Newburgh,  and  the  potatoes  taken  to  Ferry- 
field,  on  the  estate  of  Carpow,  where  there  is  a  stone 
pier,  and  thence  conveyed  to  the  London  market.  The 
Earl  of  Wemyss  has  fishings  on  the  Earn,  and  there  are 
others  on  the  Earn  and  Tay,  belonging  to  the  estate  of 
Carpow.  A  brick  and  tile  work  is  in  operation  ;  and  a 
bleachfield  has  been  formed  at  Clunie,  in  the  eastern 
district,  which  has,  to  some  extent,  caused  an  increase 
in  the  population.  The  turnpike-road  from  Perth  to 
Edinburgh  passes  through  the  parish ;  several  good 
roads,  also,  are  kept  in  repair  by  statute  labour,  one  of 
which  leads  from  Perth  to  Cupar,  in  which  line  a  new- 
bridge  was  erected  over  the  Farg,  a  few  years  since ; 
and  there  are  two  ferries,  the  one  at  Cary,  and  the  other 
atFerryfield.  Cattle-fairs  are  held  on  the  12th  February, 
the  fourth  Wednesday  in  May,  and  the  second  Thurs- 
day in  November ;  they  are,  however,  in  a  very  low- 
state.  Abernethy  is  a  burgh  of  barony,  held  under 
Lord  Douglas,  and  had  a  charter  from  Archibald,  Earl  of 
Angus,  Lord  of  Abernethy,  dated  23rd  August,   1476, 


A  B  E  R 


ABER 


in  which  mention  is  made  of  a  royal  charter  of  erection, 
in  his  favour,  by  King  James  II.  By  a  charter  of  Wil- 
liam, Earl  of  Angus,  dated  29th  November,  1628,  the 
privileges  were  confirmed,  and,  among  others,  the  right 
of  fairs  and  markets,  the  customs  of  which  were  to  be 
applied  to  the  use  of  the  burgh,  except  they  amounted 
to  more  than  100  merks  Scots  yearly,  when  the  surplus 
was  to  be  accounted  for  to  the  superior.  The  practice 
of  the  burgh  has  fixed  the  number  of  bailies  at  two,  and 
the  councillors  at  fifteen,  who  appoint  their  succes- 
sors, and  by  right  of  charter,  the  burgesses  elect 
their  magistrates  ;  the  fee  for  admission  as  a  burgess, 
to  a  stranger,  is  10s.  6rf.,  and  to  the  son  of  a  burgess, 
half  that  sum.  The  bailies  formerly  exercised  both  a 
civil  and  criminal  jurisdiction,  to  a  small  extent,  but 
their  authority  has  been  lately  challenged  ;  they  still, 
however,  hold  courts  for  petty  offences,  from  which 
there  is  no  appeal  but  to  the  court  of  justiciary  or 
session. 

The  parish  comprises  about  7030  acres,  of  which 
2568  acres  are  comprehended  in  the  northern  division, 
forming  the  lowest  part  of  the  vale  of  Strathearn,  and 
the  remainder  consists  of  a  portion  of  the  Ochil  hills  ; 
the  soil  of  the  former  is  deep  rich  clay,  black  earth,  and 
sand,  and  that  of  the  latter,  tilly,  and  resting  on  whin- 
stone,  among  which  numerous  valuable  pebbles  have,  at 
different  times,  been  found.  All  kinds  of  grain  and 
green  crops  are  raised,  of  the  first  quality,  on  the  lower 
portion,  where  the  lands  are  cultivated  to  the  highest 
degree  ;  the  hilly  part  contains  950  acres  of  permanent 
pasture,  S50  in  plantations,  and  2660  arable,  the  last 
producing  oats,  barley,  turnips,  potatoes,  &c,  and  the 
whole  farming  of  the  parish  is  of  the  most  approved 
kind.  The  rocks  between  the  Tay  and  the  Ochils  con- 
sist principally  of  the  old  red  sandstone,  and  the  sub- 
strata of  the  Ochils  comprise  chiefly  the  clinkstone, 
amygdaloid,  porphyry,  and  claystone  varieties  of  the 
trap  formation.  Gneiss,  primitive  trap,  and  quartz  are 
found  in  boulders,  especially  on  the  hills,  and  quarries 
are  in  operation  of  the  greenstone  and  clinkstone  rocks, 
supplying  a  material  for  roads  and  coarse  buildings. 
Zeolites  of  great  beauty  are  found  in  Glenfarg,  and  agates, 
jaspers,  &c,  in  many  places  ;  limestone,  also,  exists  in 
Auchtermuchty,  and  in  the  Glenfarg  quarry  have  been 
found  scales  of  the  ichthyolites. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Perth  and  synod 
of  Perth  and  Stirling,  and  in  the  gift  of  the  Earl  of 
Mansfield  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £256.  5.  7.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £12  per  annum.  The 
church,  built  in  1802,  is  a  plain  but  commodious  edifice, 
containing  600  sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship  be- 
longing to  the  Free  Church  and  United  Associate  Synod, 
and  another  at  Aberdargie  connected  with  the  Relief 
Church.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in 
the  usual  branches ;  the  master  has  the  maximum 
salary,  and  some  fees,  together  with  about  £13.  13., 
chiefly  arising  from  a  bequest  by  Lord  Stormont,  of 
£200,  in  1748,  and  another  producing  £1.  13.,  for  teach- 
ing. On  the  top  of  a  hill  behind  Pitlour,  are  the  re- 
mains of  an  ancient  fort  called  the  "  Roman  camp," 
supposed,  by  some  antiquaries,  to  have  been  occupied 
by  the  army  of  that  nation  before  the  great  battle  with 
Galgacus  ;  and  in  the  south-western  extremity  of  the 
parish,  in  Fifeshire,  is  the  ruin  of  Balvaird  Castle,  situ- 
ated among  the  Ochils,  the  property  of  the  Earl  of 
30 


Mansfield  and  his  ancestors,  since  the  time  of  Robert 
II.,  and  which  conferred  a  title  on  Andrew  Murray, 
of  Balvaird,  who  was  settled  minister  of  Abdie  in  1618, 
knighted  in  1633,  and  created  Lord  Balvaird  in  1641. 
Many  Roman  antiquities  have  been  discovered,  leading 
to  the  supposition  that  this  people  had  an  important 
military  station  here,  and  a  Roman  road  is  said  formerly 
to  have  existed,  leading  to  Ardoch,  and  another  to 
Perth ;  but  the  most  interesting  relic  of  former  times, 
and  that  which  has  excited  the  greatest  interest,  is  a 
round  tower,  to  which  there  is  nothing  similar  in  Scot- 
land, except  at  Brechin,  and  the  origin  of  which  is  alto- 
gether involved  in  obscurity.  It  stands  at  the  entrance 
of  the  church,  near  the  site  containing  the  old  college 
and  ecclesiastical  establishment,  and  also  the  ancient 
church  taken  down  in  1802  ;  and  contains  a  clock,  and 
an  excellent  bell  which  has  been  used,  from  time  imme- 
morial, for  ecclesiastical  purposes,  and,  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent, by  the  burgh,  for  civil  purposes.  The  building  is 
74  feet  high,  48  feet  round  outwardly  at  the  base,  and 
consists  of  64  courses  of  hewn  freestone,  diminishing  a 
little  towards  the  summit,  where  there  are  four  windows, 
equidistant,  facing  the  four  quarters  of  heaven,  each 
5  feet  9  inches  high,  and  2  feet  2  inches  wide.  The 
walls,  at  the  bottom,  are  3|  feet  thick,  and  opposite  to 
the  north  is  a  door,  8  feet  inheight,  and  3  feet  wide,  arched 
overhead  ;  the  building  is  flat  at  the  top,  having  a  large 
projecting  moulding  for  the  uppermost  course  of  stones, 
and,  being  entirely  hollow,  and  without  staircase,  is 
ascended  by  scaling  ladders  attached  to  wooden  plat- 
forms. The  Rev.  John  Brown,  for  36  years  minister 
of  the  Associate  Burgher  congregation  at  Haddington, 
and  author  of  the  Self-interpreting  Bible,  and  other 
theological  works,  was  born  at  Carpow,  in  1722. 

ABERNYTE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth,  10 
miles  (W.)  from  Dundee ;  containing  280  inhabitants. 
The  name  of  this  place  is  of  Gaelic  origin,  referring  to 
the  situation  of  the  principal  village,  near  the  confluence 
of  two  rivulets,  one  of  which  is  supposed  to  have  ob- 
tained the  appellation  of  Nyte.  Very  little  is  known 
concerning  the  transactions  that  anciently  occurred 
here ;  but  a  battle  is  said  to  have  been  fought  in  the 
parish,  between  two  powerful  families,  the  Grays  of 
Fowlis,  and  the  Boyds  of  Pitkindie,  in  which  the  latter 
were  victorious  ;  and  upon  the  top  of  a  hill  called 
Glenny-law,  are  two  cairns,  thought  to  have  been  raised 
in  consequence  of  this  engagement.  The  parish,  inclu- 
ding Glenbran,  annexed  to  it  quoad  sacra,  is  about  three 
miles  in  extreme  length,  and  two  in  breadth,  and  con- 
tains about  1703  acres  under  cultivation,  172  in  good 
pasture,  and  about  341  in  plantations,  consisting  chiefly 
of  larch  and  Scotch  fir  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
the  Sidlaw  hills.  The  district  lies  among  those  hills 
that  rise  gradually  from  the  Carse  of  Gowrie  to  the  top 
of  the  ridge  of  Dunsinnan,  the  highest  point  of  which 
in  this  parish,  called  King's  Seat,  is  1050  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  most  cultivated  part  of  the  parish  is  situated 
300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Tay,  and  about  three 
miles  in  a  direct  line  from  that  river.  The  numerous 
hills  and  vales  in  the  locality,  impart  to  the  scenery  a 
picturesque  character,  and  fine  prospects  may  be  had 
from  several  of  the  heights  ;  there  are  many  rivulets 
among  the  valleys,  and  at  the  head  of  a  romantic  dell 
is  a  beautiful  cascade,  the  waters  of  which  are  thrown 
from  a  perpendicular  height  of  almost  forty  feet. 


A  B  O  Y 


A  BO  Y 


In  the  lower  parts,  the  arable  land  is,  in  general,  of  a 
light  fertile  soil,  lying  frequently  on  gravel,  and  some- 
times on  clay,  or  on  a  mixture  of  both  ;  in  some  parts, 
the  earth  runs  to  a  considerable  depth.  The  portions 
of  the  higher  grounds  which  are  not  planted,  are  covered 
with  coarse  grass  or  heath.  All  the  usual  white  and 
green  crops  are  produced,  of  good  quality ;  the  best 
system  of  agriculture  is  followed,  and  great  advantages 
are  said  to  have  resulted  from  the  consolidation  of  small 
farms.  The  use  of  bone-dust  for  turnip  husbandry,  and 
the  practice  of  turning  the  sheep  to  eat  off  the  turnips, 
have  proved  of  much  benefit ;  the  implements  of  hus- 
bandry are  good,  and  the  farm-houses  and  buildings 
have  mostly  been  placed  upon  an  excellent  footing  ;  but 
the  fences,  which  form  an  exception  to  the  generally 
improved  appearance  of  the  parish,  are  deficient  in  ex- 
tent, and  sometimes  in  very  bad  order.  The  rocks  are 
sandstone,  with  amygdaloid  containing  agates  or  pebbles. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery 
of  Dundee,  in  the  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  patron, 
the  Crown  ;  there  is  a  commodious  manse,  with  a  glebe 
of  nearly  7  arable  acres,  and  3  of  pasture,  and  a  large 
garden  ;  and  the  stipend  is  nominally  £150,  but  has 
lately  fallen  short  of  this  sum.  The  church,  built  in 
1*36,  and  recently  repaired,  is  situated  at  the  lowest 
extremity  of  the  parish.  A  tabernacle  was  built  about 
forty-five  years  since,  by  Mr.  Haldane,  for  missionaries, 
and  is  now  occupied  by  a  congregation  of  Burghers ; 
and  there  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  instruction  is 
given  in  every  branch  of  education,  and  of  which  the 
master  has  the  maximum  salary,  with  about  £97  fees. 
Several  Druidical  circles  yet  remain  ;  and  in  the  parish 
is  also  the  "  Long  Man's  Grave,"  a  noted  spot  at.  the 
road-side,  north-east  of  Dunsinnan  Hill,  of  which  the 
traditionary  account  states  that  one,  guilty  either  of 
suicide  or  murder,  was  buried  there. 

ABERTARFF. — See  Boleskine  and  Abertarff. 

ABINGTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Crawford- 
John,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  3  miles 
(N.  by  W.)  from  Crawford  ;  containing  135  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  on  the  road  between  Glasgow  and  Carlisle  ; 
and  near  it  are  vestiges  of  gold-mines,  said  to  have  been 
explored  in  the  reign  of  James  VI.,  and  with  some  suc- 
cess. A.  school  here  is  aided  by  a  heritor,  with  £6  per 
annum. 

ABOYNE  and  GLENTANNER,  a  parish,  in  the 
district  of  Kincardine  O'Neil,  county  of  Aberdeen, 
5  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Kincardine  O'Neil ;  containing, 
with  the  burgh  of  barony  of  Charlestown,  113S  inhabit- 
ants. The  Gaelic  words,  A,  signifying  a  "  ford,"  and 
boinne  or  buinne,  a "  thin  rippling  water,"  have  origi- 
nated the  appellation  of  the  first  of  these  places,  on 
account  of  its  proximity  to  a  ford  on  the  Dee ;  and  the 
name  Glentanner  is  said  to  be  compounded  of  the  Gaelic 
terms  Glean-tan-ar,  meaning  "  the  glen  of  scanty  arable 
land."  The  date  of  union  is  uncertain  ;  but,  previously 
to  1763,  there  was  a  church  in  each  place,  the  two  being 
served  by  one  parochial  minister.  Glentanner,  before  the 
union,  formed  a  separate  chapelry,  and  Aboyne  was  then 
united  to  Tullich,  an  intermediate  chapel  being  situated 
at  Braeroddach,  equally  distant  from  the  churches  of 
Aboyne  and  Tullich.  On  the  south  bank  of  the  Dee, 
and  surrounded  by  a  burial-ground,  the  remains  still 
exist  of  the  old  church  of  Glentanner,  called,  on  ac- 
count of  its  heather  thatch,  the  "  black  chapel  of  the 
31 


moor."  The  portion  of  Aboyne  on  the  north  side  of 
the  Dee  was  an  important  barony,  the  burgh  of  which, 
now  named  Charlestown,  formerly  Bunty,  is  near  Aboyne 
Castle ;  but  the  tolbooth  was  destroyed  at  the  close  of 
the  last  century,  and  all  traces  of  the  pot  and  gallows 
have  nearly  disappeared.  The  Knights  Templars  once 
had  possessions  here,  given  to  them  by  the  Bissets  ; 
from  that  body  they  passed  to  the  Frasers,  of  Cowie, 
and  from  them  to  Lord  Keith,  whose  daughter,  Eli- 
zabeth, having  married  Sir  John  Gordon,  of  Huntly, 
carried  the  lands  and  castle  to  the  Gordons,  with  whom 
they  have  remained.  The  main  outline  of  the  parish 
is  irregular,  rendering  the  statement  of  an  accurate 
measurement  difficult,  besides  which,  there  is  a  detached 
portion,  containing  about  sixty  persons,  situated  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Feugh,  about  nine  miles  south-east 
from  the  church,  and  separated  by  the  parish  of  Birse. 
The  length  from  east  to  west,  between  extreme  points, 
is  supposed  to  be  thirteen  miles,  and  the  breadth  19, 
miles,  comprising  37,000  acres,  of  which  a  small  part  is 
arable,  and  the  remainder  moorland,  natural  pastures, 
and  wood.  This  is  a  mountainous  and  wood}'  district, 
watered  by  numerous  rivulets,  among  which  are  the 
Tanner,  the  Feugh,  the  burn  of  Dinnet,  and  that  of 
Dess,  beautifully  winding  in  different  directions,  but  all 
in  subordination  to  the  stately  and  majestic  Dee,  which 
here  pursues  its  course  through  the  middle  of  the  parish, 
Aboyne  lying  chiefly  on  the  northern,  and  Glentanner 
on  the  southern,  bank.  The  district  is  bounded  on  all 
sides  either  by  rivers  or  mountains,  and  is  skirted  on 
the  west,  south,  and  east,  by  ranges  of  the  Grampians. 
The  climate  is  serene  ;  during  heavy  falls  of  snow  and 
the  blowing  of  the  keener  winds,  it  is  intensely  cold, 
but  it  is  considered  salubrious,  particularly  about  the 
banks  of  the  Dee,  and  near  the  Tanner.  Invalids  fre- 
quently resort  hither  in  summer,  to  enjoy  a  picturesque 
and  romantic  seclusion,  and  to  drink  the  goats'  whey 
for  which  the  place  is  celebrated ;  and  the  heath-clad 
hills  and  Alpine  forests,  ascended  by  steep  and  craggy 
slopes,  afford  exercise  for  the  more  hardy,  who,  having 
reached  the  summits,  are  amply  repaid  for  their  labour 
by  the  fine  views  around  them,  embracing  Aberdeen, 
Montrose,  and  many  other  objects  of  commanding  in- 
terest. 

The  soil  near  the  rivers  is  a  thin  alluvial  deposit, 
formed,  in  consequence  of  the  rapidity  of  the  currents, 
chiefly  of  sand  and  gravel;  but,  advancing  towards  the 
hills,  the  earth  is  stronger,  and  of  better  quality,  con- 
sisting of  a  black  or  clayey  till :  extensive  tracts  of  peat- 
moss are  found  on  the  higher  grounds,  and,  to  a  large 
extent,  supply  the  inhabitants  with  fuel.  The  only- 
grain  raised  is  oats  and  bear ;  the  farms  vary  much  in 
size,  some  being  mere  crofts,  and  others  more  than  100 
arable  acres  in  extent,  but  the  latter  are  few  in  number, 
and  the  average  dimensions  are  from  twenty  to  fifty 
acres.  Between  5000  and  6000  sheep,  chiefly  of  the 
Linton  breed,  are  pastured  upon  the  hills  and  moor- 
lands ;  and  the  black  cattle,  to  the  rearing  of  which 
much  attention  is  paid,  comprise  the  Aberdeenshire  horned 
and  the  Buchan  polled  breeds,  crossed,  not  unfrequently, 
with  the  short-horned.  The  rocks  mostly  consist  of 
granite,  existing  in  various  forms,  according  to  the  pro- 
portions of  its  constituent  parts ;  gneiss  is  also  common, 
and  ironstone,  limestone,  topaz,  crystallized  quartz,  and 
fullers'-earth  are  found.     About  4500  acres  of  natural 


ACRE 


AILS 


fir,  a  remnant  of  the  ancient  Caledonian  forest,  still  re- 
main in  Glentanner  ;  and  on  the  estate  of  Balnacraig, 
where  stand  the  old  mansion-house  of  the  same  name, 
and  the  house  of  Carlogie,  about  1400  acres  are  covered 
with  Scotch  fir,  in  a  thriving  state,  like  most  of  the 
other  wood  in  the  parish.  There  are  also  2144  acres  of 
plantations  near  Aboyne  Castle,  the  ancient  seat  of  the 
earls  of  Aboyne,  consisting  chiefly  of  Scotch  fir,  with 
many  sprinklings  of  larch,  oak,  ash,  beech,  elm,  and 
other  varieties.  The  castle,  the  grounds  of  which  are 
ornamented  with  an  artificial  lake  of  thirty-two  acres, 
interspersed  with  wooded  islets,  was  partly  rebuilt  in 
1671,  by  Charles,  first  Earl  of  Aboyne,  and  the  east 
wing  was  added  in  1801,  by  his  great-great-grandson,  the 
Marquess  of  Huntly  ;  the  mansion  is  surrounded  with 
beautifully-wooded  hills,  commanding  extensive  and 
interesting  views. 

The  village  of  Charlestown  has  a  daily  mail  to  Aber- 
deen, the  turnpike-road  from  that  city  terminating  here, 
though  the  communication  is  continued  by  good  com- 
mutation roads,  on  each  side  of  the  Dee,  to  Ballater  and 
Braemar ;  there  are  also  commutation  roads  leading 
hence  in  the  direction  of  Tarland  and  other  places, 
and  the  parliamentary  road  to  Alford  commences  here. 
Numerous  bridges  cross  the  different  streams  ;  and  at 
Aboyne,  nearly  opposite  the  church,  is  an  elegant  sus- 
pension bridge,  erected  in  1831,  by  the  Earl  of  Aboyne, 
in  place  of  a  former  one  built  in  1828,  and  swept  away 
by  the  great  flood,  in  August  in  the  following  year. 
The  trade  in  the  sale  of  grain  and  cattle  is  principally 
carried  on  with  Aberdeen  ;  and  besides  the  cattle  sold 
for  this  city,  or  forwarded  by  the  steamers  to  the  London 
market,  large  numbers,  in  a  lean  state,  are  sent  to  the 
south  of  Scotland,  or  to  England.  Fairs  are  held  at 
Candlemas,  Michaelmas,  Hallowmas,  and  in  June  and 
July,  on  a  green  between  the  village  of  Charlestown  and 
the  church.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Kin- 
cardine O'Neil  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  pa- 
tronage of  the  Marquess  of  Huntly.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  about  £150,  part  of  which  is  received  from 
the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  20  acres  of 
very  poor  land,  assigned  in  lieu  of  the  old  glebes  of  the 
two  parishes,  when  a  central  church  was  built  for  the 
united  parish,  in  1*63  :  the  present  edifice,  containing 
628  sittings,  is  very  handsome,  and  was  erected  in  1842, 
at  an  expense,  exclusive  of  carriage,  of  £900.  The  pa- 
rochial school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £26,  with  £28  in  fees,  and  a 
portion  of  Dick's  bequest.  The  antiquities  comprise 
Picts'  houses,  cairns,  tumuli,  and  the  remains  of  en- 
campments, of  the  history  of  which  nothing  is  known. 
Aboyne  gives  the  inferior  title  of  Earl  to  the  Marquess 
of  Huntlv. 

ACHARACLE.— See  Aharacle. 

ACHARN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kenmore, 
county  of  Perth  ;  containing  42  inhabitants.  It  is  a 
small  place,  of  which  the  residents  are  entirely  engaged 
in  agriculture.  The  Acharn  burn,  a  feeder  of  Loch  Tay, 
runs  through  the  eastern  portion  of  the  parish. 

ACKERGILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Wick,  and 
county  of  Caithness.  It  was  anciently  called  Aikrigill, 
and  lies  on  the  shore  of  Sinclair  bay,  and  on  the  road 
between  Staxigo  and  Keiss.  The  lands  were  formerly  a 
possession  of  the  Keiths,  earls  marischal,  whose  resi- 
dence was  Ackergill  Tower,  a  spacious  rectangular  strue- 
32 


ture,  of  which  the  walls,  thirteen  feet  in  thickness,  and 
crowned  with  battlements,  are  eighty-two  feet  in  height ; 
it  is  in  a  state  of  entire  preservation,  and,  from  its  an- 
tiquity, has  a  venerable  and  impressive  aspect. 

ADAMSROW,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Newton, 
county  of  Edinburgh  ;  containing  249  inhabitants. 

AFTON-BRIDGEND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  New 
Cumnock,  district  of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr  ;  contain- 
ing 261  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Afton,  a  small  stream  tributary  to  the  river  Nith,  into 
which,  flowing  northward  through  Glen- Afton,  it  merges 
near  New  Cumnock,  and  gives  name  to  a  barony, 
wherein  is  a  lead-mine.  The  parochial  church  is  be- 
tween the  villages  of  Afton-Bridgend  and  New  Cum- 
nock. 

AHARACLE,  or  Acharacle,  late  a  quoad  sacra  pa- 
rish, in  the  parish  of  Ardnamurchan,  partly  in  the 
district  and  county  of  Argyll,  and  partly  in  county 
Inverness;  containing  2016  inhabitants.  It  is  about 
twenty-four  miles  in  its  greatest  length,  and  ten  inbreadth, 
and  is  formed,  for  the  most  part,  of  the  eastern  portion 
of  Ardnamurchan,  and  includes  the  islands  of  Shona- 
veg,  Portavata,  and  Shona.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Mull 
and  synod  of  Argyll ;  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is 
£120,  subject  to  a  deduction  for  communion  elements, 
and  there  is  a  manse,  with  a  glebe  valued  at  £2.  10.  The 
church,  which  stands  at  the  west  end  of  Lochshiel,  and 
about  four  miles  distant  from  the  nearest  boundary  of 
the  district,  the  Western  Ocean,  was  built  in  1829,  and 
contains  2/0  sittings :  another  place  of  worship  connected 
with  the  Establishment,  is  distant  from  the  parochial 
church  about  eleven  miles.  A  great  portion  of  the 
population  are  Roman  Catholics. 

AIGASH  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Kiltarlity,  county 
of  Inverness.  It  is  formed  by  a  division  into  two 
branches  of  the  river  Beauly,  and  is  of  an  oval  figure, 
and  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circumference,  com- 
prising an  area  of  fifty  acres.  It  is  chiefly  whinstone, 
and  rises,  in  a  slope,  about  a  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  water  ;  and  being  covered  with  natural  oak, 
birch,  alder,  and  other  trees,  it  presents,  with  the  sur- 
rounding rocks,  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  appear- 
ance. The  islet  communicates  with  the  main  land  by 
a  bridge. 

AILSA,  an  island  belonging  to  the  parish  of  Dailly, 
in  the  district  of  Carrick,  county  of  Ayr.  This  island 
lies  in  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  between  the  shores  of  Ayr- 
shire and  Cantyre,  from  the  former  of  which  it  is  dis- 
tant eight  miles  ;  it  is  a  rugged  rock,  about  two  miles 
in  circumference  at  its  base,  rising  precipitously  from 
the  sea,  to  an  elevation  of  1 100  feet,  and  accessible  only 
on  the  north-east  side,  where  a  small  beach  has  been 
constructed.  The  rock  is  basaltic,  and  in  several  parts 
assumes  the  columnar  formation :  at  a  considerable 
elevation,  are  the  remains  of  ancient  buildings,  sup- 
posed to  have  been  originally  a  castle,  with  a  chapel.  A 
small  portion  of  its  surface  affords  a  scanty  pasturage  ; 
but  it  is  frequented  only  by  various  aquatic  birds,  of 
which  the  most  numerous  are  the  solan  geese  ;  and  the 
sole  income  arising  from  the  island,  is  derived  from  the 
sale  of  feathers,  for  the  collection  of  which,  during  the 
season,  a  person  resides  on  the  spot.  It  was  in 
contemplation,  some  time  since,  to  make  this  island  a 
fishing  station,  for  the  supply  of  Glasgow  and  Liverpool 


AIRD 


A  I  R  L 


by  the  numerous  steamers  which  pass  this  way,  and 
the  erection  of  some  buildings  for  that  purpose  was 
commenced,  but  the  idea  was  subsequently  abandoned. 
The  island  gives  the  British  titles  of  Marquess  and 
Baron  to  the  family  of  Kennedy,  who  are  the  owners  of 
the  property. 

AIRD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Inch,  county  of 
Wigton  ;  containing  18  inhabitants.  It  is  situated 
near  the  head  of  Loch  Ryan  bay,  about  a  mile  eastward 
of  Stranraer,  and  the  same  distance  south-west  of  the 
parochial  church. 

AIRDRIE,  a  burgh  and  market-town,  in  the  parish 
of  New,  or  East  Monkland,  Middle  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark,  32|  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Edin- 
burgh ;  containing  12,418  inhabitants,  and  comprising 
the  late  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  High  Church,  and  East, 
South,  and  West  Airdrie,  in  which  are  respectively 
1983,  2556,  4666,  and  3213  persons.  This  place,  which 
is  comparatively  of  recent  origin,  is  advantageously 
situated  on  the  road  from  Glasgow  to  Edinburgh,  and 
appears  to  have  been  indebted  for  its  rise  to  the  nume- 
rous mines  of  coal  and  ironstone  with  which  the 
parish  and  adjoining  district  abound,  and  which, 
within  the  last  half  century,  have  been  wrought  with 
increased  assiduity  and  profit.  Its  situation  within  a 
moderate  distance  of  the  capital  and  other  principal 
towns,  with  which  it  has  facility  of  intercourse,  by 
means  of  the  Monkland  canal,  and  good  turnpike-roads, 
has  rendered  it  important  as  a  place  of  trade,  and  as  the 
residence  of  numerous  persons  engaged  in  collieries  and 
mines ;  and  it  is  rapidly  increasing  in  population  and 
prosperity.  The  town  is  regularly  built ;  the  houses  are 
of  neat  appearance,  and  the  streets  are  well  paved, 
lighted  with  gas,  and  watched,  under  the  provisions  of 
an  act  of  1  and  2  Geo.  IV.  A  theatre,  likewise,  is  sup- 
ported by  the  inhabitants.  The  principal  trade  carried 
on  in  the  town,  is  that  of  weaving,  in  which  many 
persons  are  employed ;  and  a  large  cotton  factory  has 
been  recently  established,  which  affords  constant  occu- 
pation to  a  large  number,  in  spinning,  carding,  and  other 
branches  of  the  manufacture.  There  are  a  tan-work, 
brewery,  and  extensive  distillery.  The  Monkland  canal, 
passing  by  the  town,  affords  ready  communication  with 
Glasgow,  to  which  place  coal  is  likewise  forwarded  by 
the  Ballochney  railroad,  which  joins  those  of  Kirkin- 
tilloch and  Garnkirk  ;  and  great  quantities  of  coal  and 
mineral  produce  are  also  conveyed  to  the  Clyde  and 
Forth  canal,  whence  they  are  forwarded,  eastward  to 
Edinburgh,  and  westward  to  Greenock.  The  market, 
which  is  well  supplied,  and  numerously  attended,  is  on 
Thursday  ;  and  fairs,  chiefly  for  cattle,  are  held  generally 
about  the  end  of  May  and  the  middle  of  November. 

The  town  was  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony  by  act 
of  the  1st  and  2nd  of  Geo.  IV.,  by  which  the  govern- 
ment was  vested  in  a  provost,  three  bailies,  a  treasurer, 
and  seven  councillors,  assisted  by  a  town-clerk  and 
other  officers.  The  provost  and  bailies  are  elected  from 
the  council,  by  a  majority  of  the  burgesses  and  other 
inhabitants  possessing  the  elective  franchise  ;  the  for- 
mer, with  two  of  the  bailies,  annually,  the  third  bailie 
retaining  office  for  two  years.  The  town-clerk  is  chosen 
annually,  by  the  proprietor  of  the  Rochsolloch  estate, 
but  is  subject  to  the  controul  of  the  magistrates  and 
council ;  and  the  provost  and  bailies  are  justices  of  the 
peace  within  the  burgh,  in  which,  however,  the  county 
Vol.  I.— 33 


magistrates  have  concurrent  jurisdiction.  The  bailies 
hold  courts  monthly,  for  the  recovery  of  debts  under 
40s.  The  burgh  unites  with  those  of  Lanark,  Hamilton, 
Falkirk,  and  Linlithgow,  in  returning  one  member  to 
the  imperial  parliament ;  the  right  of  election  is  vested 
in  the  resident  burgesses  and  £10  householders,  and 
the  provost  is  the  returning  officer.  The  town-hall,  re- 
cently erected,  is  a  neat  edifice,  comprising  also  a  police- 
office,  and  a  small  prison  for  the  temporary  confinement 
of  offenders  previously  to  their  committal  by  the  county 
magistrates.  There  is  also  a  public  building  called  the 
Masons'  Hall,  which  is  connected  with  the  trade  of  the 
town.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  controul 
of  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton  and  synod  of  Glasgow 
and  Ayr  :  the  parochial  church  of  East  Airdrie,  which 
contains  631  sittings,  was  erected,  as  a  chapel  of  ease,  in 
1/97;  and  a  new  church  for  West  Airdrie,  having  1200 
sittings,  was  built  by  subscription,  in  1835,  at  a  cost  of 
£23/0.  The  stipend  of  the  minister  of  the  former  is 
£120,  derived  solely  from  seat-rents  ;  and  that  of  the 
minister  of  the  latter,  £105,  derived  from  seat-rents 
and  collections.  There  are  also  two  places  of  worship 
for  South  Airdrie  and  High  Church,  a  town  school,  and 
meeting-houses  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  Inde- 
pendents, Roman  Catholics,  the  United  Secession,  and 
other  congregations. 

AIRLIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar,  4  miles 
(W.  S.  W.)  from  Kirriemuir ;  containing  868  inhabit- 
ants. The  name  of  this  place,  written  in  ancient  records 
Errolly,  Erolly,  Irolly,  and  Airlie,  is  altogether  of  un- 
certain derivation,  but  is  supposed,  by  some,  to  come 
from  the  Gaelic  term  Aird,  signifying  the  "  extremity 
of  a  ridge,"  which  description  is  applicable  to  the  loca- 
lity of  Airlie  Castle.  The  parish  is  situated  at  the  west- 
ern extremity  of  the  county,  bordering  on  Perthshire, 
and  measures,  in  extreme  length,  6  miles,  from  east  to 
west ;  and  the  breadth  varies  from  ^  a  mile  to  4  miles  ; 
the  whole  comprising  S600  acres,  of  which  6848  are 
cultivated,  1365  under  wood,  and  3S/  in  pasture,  waste, 
&c.  The  southern  part  of  the  district  lies  in  the  vale  of 
Strathmore,  from  which  the  land  rises  towards  the 
north,  in  a  succession  of  undulated  ridges,  forming  a 
portion  of  the  braes  of  Angus,  and  the  southern  Gram- 
pians. In  this  direction,  the  Isla  pours  its  waters 
through  a  deep  rocky  gorge,  out  of  the  higher  into  the 
lower  country;  and  the  ravine,  separcting  at  Airlie 
Castle  into  two  channels,  makes  courses,  respectively, 
for  the  Isla  and  Melgum  streams.  The  scenery  about 
this  spot  is  highly  picturesque,  and  is,  to  a  great  extent, 
indebted  for  its  attractions  to  the  romantic  Den  of 
Airlie,  extending  for  above  a  mile  from  the  confluence 
of  the  two  streams.  The  pellucid  stream  of  the  Isla, 
sweeping  in  some  places  over  a  rocky  channel,  pursues 
its  winding  course  among  the  thickly-wooded  and  pre- 
cipitous braes ;  and  the  pleasing  landscape  in  this  part 
is  completed  by  the  interesting  feature  of  the  Kirktown, 
situated  about  \\  mile  south-east  from  the  castle,  and 
less  than  a  mile  east  of  the  river.  All  the  streams  are 
famed  for  their  abundance  of  fine  trout,  and  are  the 
favourite  resorts  of  anglers  ;  the  Isla  and  Melgum  are 
also  much  visited  by  salmon.  In  the  Dean  is  found  the 
fresh-water  muscle,  often  mistaken  for  the  pearl  oyster, 
common  in  the  South  Esk,  and  some  of  the  rivers  are 
frequented  by  numerous  migratory  birds,  some  of  them 
being  of  very  rare  species. 

F 


AIRL 


A  I  R  T 


The  soil  runs  through  the  several  varieties  of  brown 
and  black  loam  ;  in  the  better  portion  of  the  district, 
and  in  the  northern  part,  it  is  a  thin  and  barren  earth, 
on  a  tilly  subsoil,  requiring  much  furrow-draining  and 
deep  ploughing  to  render  it  profitable.  There  are  also 
many  gravelly,  sandy,  and  clayey  admixtures,  in  differ- 
ent places,  some  of  which,  if  allowed  to  remain  long  in 
grass,  become  overspread  with  broom ;  but,  though 
much  of  the  land  is  either  very  poor  or  only  of  moderate 
fertility,  there  are  some  rich  tracts,  particularly  a  long 
and  broad  strip  of  deep  alluvial  loam,  along  the  whole 
course  of  the  Dean  river.  The  agriculture  of  the  parish 
has  been  greatly  improved  since  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century,  and  deep  and  extensive  drains  have 
been  constructed ;  furrow-draining,  by  tiles  and  stones, 
has  been  practised,  and  shell-marl  is  much  used  as 
manure.  The  number  of  sheep  and  cattle,  and  the 
superiority  of  the  breeds,  furnish  a  striking  contrast  to 
the  state  of  the  district,  in  these  respects,  about  thirty 
years  since,  most  of  the  thinner  soils  being  now  covered 
with  flocks  of  native  black-faced  sheep,  besides  regular 
stocks  of  Leicesters,  in  other  parts  ;  and  in  addition  to 
the  Angus,  a  very  fine  description  of  cattle  is  seen  on 
several  of  the  larger  farms,  which  is  often  crossed  with 
the  Teeswater.  Since  the  introduction  of  steam  naviga- 
tion, large  quantities  have  been  sent  to  London,  in 
addition  to  those  sold  at  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow,  and 
they  obtain  the  highest  prices. 

The  strata  consist  entirely  of  the  old  red  sandstone, 
with  the  exception  of  a  trap-dike  crossing  the  channel 
of  the  Isla,  near  Airlie  Castle.  The  upper  beds  are  in 
general  too  friable  for  use,  crumbling  almost  as  soon  as 
they  are  exposed  to  the  air,  but  those  at  a  considerable 
depth  are  of  tenacious  consistence,  and,  having  several 
varieties  of  fine  and  coarse  grain,  are  capable  of  being 
applied  to  many  purposes.  Most  of  the  rocks  are  over- 
laid with  debris  of  different  depths,  and  above  are 
usually  beds  of  sand  and  gravel ;  at  Baikie  is  a  bed 
of  marl,  once  covering  40  acres,  and  six  or  seven  yards 
deep,  but  which  has  been  much  exhausted  for  agricul- 
tural use,  and  there  are  also  extensive  mosses,  in  which 
horns  of  deer  and  oxen  have  been  found.  Many  plan- 
tations have  been  formed  in  the  present  century,  com- 
prising the  usual  trees  ;  but  they  are,  to  a  great  extent, 
in  a  pining  state,  especially  the  larch,  very  many  of 
which  have  been  entirely  destroyed  by  blight  and  can- 
ker. Airlie  Castle,  a  plain  modern  residence,  situated 
at  the  north-western  point  of  the  parish,  on  a  lofty 
precipice,  is  the  property  of  the  family  of  Ogilvy,  who 
became  connected  with  the  parish  in  1458,  when  Sir 
John  Ogilvy,  of  Lintrathen,  received  a  grant  of  the 
barony  from  King  James  II.  One  side  of  the  ancient 
castle  only  remains,  the  rest  having  been  burnt  down  by 
the  Earl  of  Argyll,  in  the  year  1640,  during  the  absence 
of  the  Earl  of  Airlie,  a  zealous  supporter  of  the  royal 
cause,  which  event  is  celebrated  in  the  popular  ballad 
entitled  "  Bonnie  house  of  Airlie."  Lindertis  House  is 
a  handsome  edifice,  of  recent  date,  beautifully  situated 
on  the  northern  slope  of  Strathmore,  and  commanding 
fine  views  of  an  extensive  range  of  country.  A  consi- 
derable number  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  parish  are 
engaged  in  weaving  coarse  linens  for  Dundee  houses ; 
several  public  roads,  leading  to  most  of  the  great  tho- 
roughfares, pass  through  the  place,  and  the  railway 
from  Newtyle  to  Glammis  passes  along  the  southern 
34 


border.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Meigle  and 
synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the 
Earl  of  Strathmore  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £219.  1.  5., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  9  acres  valued  at  £12  per 
annum.  The  church  is  a  very  neat  edifice,  rebuilt  in 
1781,  and  repaired  in  1844.  A  Free  Church  place  of 
worship  has  been  recently  erected.  The  parochial  school- 
master has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  a  house,  and  £13 
fees.  Near  Cardean,  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  camp, 
and  also  of  the  great  Roman  road  which  ran  from  this 
spot,  along  the  valley  of  Strathmore. 

AIRNTULLY,  or  Arntully,  a  village,  in  the  pa- 
rish of  Kinclaven,  county  of  Perth,  8  miles  (N.)  from 
Perth  ;  containing  159  inhabitants.  This  place,  of 
which  the  houses  are  scattered  in  every  direction,  was 
of  greater  extent  than  it  is  at  present ;  and  though  it 
has,  of  late  years,  considerably  decreased  in  size  and 
population,  it  still  exhibits  a  striking  picture  of  the 
ancient  villages  of  the  kingdom.  It  is  now  chiefly  in- 
habited by  weavers  for  the  linen  manufacturers  of  Cupar- 
Angus,  Blairgowrie,  and  Newburgh  ;  and  attached  to 
each  of  their  cottages,  is  a  portion  of  land  sufficient  to 
maintain  a  cow,  and  to  yield  meal  and  potatoes  for  the 
supply  of  their  families. 

AIRTH,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Stirling,  6| 
miles  (N.)  from  Falkirk ;  containing,  with  the  village 
of  Dunmore,  1498  inhabitants,  of  whom  5S3  are  in  the 
village  of  Airth.  The  Gaelic  term  ard,  or  ardhe,  signi- 
fying a  hill,  is  supposed  to  have  given  the  name  to  this 
place,  in  which  the  eminence  called  the  Hill  of  Airth  is 
a  conspicuous  feature,  and  forms  a  striking  contrast  to 
the  level  district  by  which  it  is  surrounded.  The  parish 
is  situated  on  the  shore  of  the  Forth,  which  is  its  boun- 
dary on  the  north  and  east,  for  about  S-§  miles,  and 
contains  the  three  small  landing-places  or  harbours  of 
Newmiln,  Airth,  and  Dunmore  ;  its  length,  from  north 
to  south,  is  6^  miles,  and  its  breadth  3^,  comprising 
16,400  acres,  mostly  in  tillage.  The  small  river  Pow 
is  the  only  water  besides  the  Forth  ;  it  rises  in  the 
parish  of  St.  Ninian's,  and,  after  being  crossed  by  several 
stone  bridges,  falls  into  the  latter  river  near  Kincardine 
ferry.  The  prevailing  soil  consists  of  alluvial  deposits 
from  the  Forth;  and  the  layers  of  shells,  at  a  small  dis- 
tance from  the  surface,  on  the  lower  grounds,  have  led 
to  the  opinion  that  this  portion  of  the  parish  formed 
originally  a  part  of  the  bed  of  the  river.  Most  kinds  of 
grain  and  green  crops  are  raised,  averaging,  in  annual 
value,  £100,000  ;  and  the  general  husbandry,  which  has 
been  for  some  time  on  the  advance,  is  now  considered 
equal  to  that  of  the  best  cultivated  districts.  The 
rocks  comprise  distinct  varieties  of  sandstone,  differing 
in  colour,  texture,  and  extent,  and  there  are  several 
quarries.  Argillaceous  rock  also  exists,  of  the  fire- 
proof species,  on  which  rest  beds  of  coal,  belonging, 
with  their  appropriate  strata,  to  the  great  coalfield  of 
Scotland,  though  they  are  not  at  present  worked,  the 
pits  formerly  in  operation,  near  the  village  of  Dunmore, 
having  been  closed  since  1S11,  on  account  of  their  ex- 
hausted state.  The  plantations  are  chiefly  in  the  vici- 
nity of  the  beautiful  hill  of  Airth  and  Dunmore  Park, 
the  most  prominent  and  striking  portions  of  the  parish, 
on  the  former  of  which  is  situated  Airth  Castle,  a  very 
ancient  building,  with  a  handsome  new  front,  sur- 
mounted in  the.  centre  by  a  tower,  the  whole  forming  a 
picturesque  object  from  every  part  of  the  surrounding 


ALEX 


ALFO 


country.  In  Dunmore  Park  is  the  mansion  of  the 
Earl  of  Dunmore,  built  in  the  Elizabethan  style,  about 
twenty  years  since,  upon  an  extensive  lawn  richly 
studded  with  all  kinds  of  trees,  and  encompassed  with 
grounds  thickly  planted,  like  those  of  the  Castle,  with 
larch,  Scotch  fir,  birch,  oak,  and  beech.  About  185 
acres  of  land,  recovered  from  the  sea,  have  been  added 
to  the  Airth  estate,  and  150  to  that  of  Dunmore,  within 
the  last  fifty  years,  and  are  secured  by  embankments  of 
mud  and  turf,  defended  by  substantial  stone  facings  ; 
and  considerable  tracts  of  moss  are  annually  recovered 
by  the  employment  of  what  are  called  "  moss  lairds," 
who,  by  hard  labour,  are  gradually  reducing  the  large 
extent,  amounting  to  between  300  and  400  acres,  re- 
ceiving for  their  work  £24  per  acre. 

The  parish  is  traversed  by  the  Glasgow  turnpike- 
road,  on  which  the  Alloa  and  Kirkcaldy  coaches  travel 
daily ;  there  is  also  constant  communication  with  Edin- 
burgh, by  means  of  steam-boats  plying  on  the  Forth, 
throughout  the  whole  year.  Over  the  small  river  Fow, 
up  which  the  tide  flows,  for  above  a  mile,  is  the  Abbey- 
town  bridge,  situated  on  the  road  from  Airth  and  Dun- 
more to  Carron  and  Falkirk,  having  received  this  name 
from  a  town,  as  is  supposed,  to  which  it  led,  in  a  direct 
line,  and  near  which  was  an  ancient  abbey.  There  are 
two  old  ferries,  called  Kersie  and  Higgin's  Neuck,  the 
latter  about  a  mile  across,  and  the  former  half  that  dis- 
tance, at  which,  on  each  side  of  the  river,  is  a  pier  for 
the  accommodation  of  passengers  at  all  states  of  the 
tide.  The  harbours  of  Airth,  Dunmore,  and  Newmiln 
are  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  custom-house  of  Alloa, 
and  there  are  four  registered  vessels  belonging  to  the 
parish.  An  annual  fair  is  held  on  the  last  Tuesday  in 
July,  chiefly  for  the  hiring  of  servants  as  shearers.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Stirling  and  synod  of 
Perth  and  Stirling,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  family 
of  Graham ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £281.  12.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  of  10  acres,  including  the  site  of  the 
manse  and  garden,  valued  at  £27  per  annum.  The 
church,  which  is  conveniently  situated,  was  built  in 
1820,  and  is  capable  of  accommodating  800  persons. 
There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  the  Burgher  denomination. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  Latin,  arith- 
metic, book-keeping,  and  the  usual  elementary  branches  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  and  £40  fees.  The  poor 
enjoy  the  benefit  of  several  considerable  bequests  ;  a 
savings'  bank  was  instituted  in  1821,  and  there  are  two 
friendly  societies,  one  of  which  is  connected  with  the 
weavers  of  the  parish,  who  carry  on  a  manufacture  to 
a  very  limited  extent.  The  family  of  Murray  derive  the 
title  of  Earl  from  their  ancient  seat  of  Dunmore,  in  the 
parish. 

AIRTHRIE,  Stirling. — See  Allan,  Bridge  of. 

AITHSTING,  Shetland. — See  Sandsting  and 
Aithsting. 

ALDHOUSE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  East  Kil- 
bride, Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark.  This 
place,  which  includes  Crosshill,  lies  in  about  the  centre 
of  the  parish,  and  contains  a  branch  of  the  parochial 
school. 

ALEXANDRIA,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Bonhill,  county  of  Dumbarton  ;  contain- 
ing 3397  inhabitants,  of  whom  3039  are  in  the  village, 
4  miles  (N.)  from  Dumbarton.  The  village  is  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  river  Leven,  and  its  population  has,  of 
35 


late  years,  very  considerably  increased,  owing  to  the 
establishment  of  bleach-fields  and  print-fields  in  the 
parish  ;  the  persons  employed  here,  in  these  works,  are 
very  numerous.  The  church  is  a  handsome  edifice,  and 
contains  about  1000  sittings  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£206.  17-  4.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£6.  13.  4.  per  annum,  and  a  right  to  fuel  on  a  moss, 
commuted  for  £4  worth  of  coal,  and  13s.  8d.  money. 
In  the  village  is  a  place  of  worship  for  Independents. 

ALFORD,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Alford,  county 
of  Aberdeen,  26  miles  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Aberdeen  ; 
containing  1037  inhabitants.  This  place,  of  which  the 
name  is  of  uncertain  derivation,  is  situated  in  the  south- 
western portion  of  a  district  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
county,  called  the  How  of  Alford,  a  valley  comprising 
also  the  parishes  of  Keig,  Tough,  and  Tullynessle  and 
Forbes,  and  entirely  surrounded  with  mountains  and 
hills.  The  only  event  of  historical  importance,  is  the 
battle  of  Alford,  which  took  place  here  on  the  2nd  of 
July,  1645,  and  terminated  in  the  entire  defeat  of  the 
army  of  the  Covenanters  under  General  Baillie,  by  the 
royal  forces  under  the  command  of  the  Marquess  of 
Montrose,  and  in  which  Lord  Gordon,  the  eldest  son  of 
the  Marquess  of  Huntly,  was  killed.  On  the  field  of 
battle,  of  which  the  site  is  marked  out  by  an  upright 
stone,  the  body  of  a  horseman,  in  complete  armour,  was 
found  within  the  last  century,  by  some  men  digging 
peat ;  and  cannon-balls,  military  weapons,  coins,  and 
other  relics  have  been  discovered  near  the  spot.  The 
parish  is  about  seven  miles  in  extreme  length,  and  nearly 
three  miles  in  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  8715  acres, 
of  which  4767  are  arable,  1169  woodland  and  planta- 
tions, about  200  rich  meadow,  and  the  remainder  moun- 
tain pasture,  moss,  and  waste.  The  surface  is  partly 
diversified  with  ranges  of  nearly  contiguous  hills,  of 
circular  form,  of  which  the  bases  have  an  elevation  of 
420,  and  the  summits  of  S00,  feet,  and  which  increase 
in  height  towards  the  mountain  of  Callievar,  on  the 
western  boundary,  which  has  an  elevation  of  1480  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  principal  river  is  the  Don,  which 
forms  the  northern  boundary  of  the  parish,  and  is  here 
about  120  feet  wide,  flowing  from  east  to  west,  between 
verdant  banks  of  great  beauty.  The  river  Leochal 
has  its  source  in  the  parish  of  Cushnie,  is  scarcely  25 
feet  in  breadth,  and  flows  into  the  Don ;  the  burn  of 
Bents,  a  still  smaller  stream,  skirts  the  parish  on  the 
east,  and  the  burn  of  Buckie,  the  smallest,  flows  through 
the  eastern  portion  of  the  parish.  The  Don  and  the 
Leochal  abound  with  trout;  there  are  also  numerous 
springs  of  excellent  water,  and  some  slightly  cha- 
lybeate. 

The  soil  is  mostly  a  dry  friable  loam,  well  adapted 
for  turnips,  and,  in  some  parts,  of  great  depth  and  fer- 
tility; the  crops  are,  oats,  bear,  potatoes,  and  turnips. 
The  system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  improved  state ; 
much  waste  land  has  been  reclaimed  ;  the  farm  build- 
ings are,  in  general,  substantial  and  commodious,  and 
the  lands  are  inclosed  with  stone  dykes.  Great  atten- 
tion is  paid  to  the  improvement  of  live  stock,  for  which 
the  hills  afford  good  pasture;  the  sheep,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  of  the  black-faced,  are  usually  of  the  Leices- 
tershire and  Merino  breeds,  reared  chiefly  for  their  wool, 
and  about  S00  are  generally  fed  in  the  pastures.  The 
rearing  of  black  cattle,  however,  is  the  main  dependence 
of  the  farmers,  and  about  2000  are  kept,  chiefly  of  the 

F2 


A  L  L  A 


A  L  L  O 


Aberdeen  polled  kind,  and  a  cross  between  it  and  the 
short-horned.  The  plantations  are,  larch,  Scotch  and 
spruce  firs,  beech,  elm,  ash,  mountain  ash,  lime,  plane, 
oak,  willow,  birch,  and  poplar.  The  rocks  are  princi- 
pally of  the  primitive  formation,  chiefly  micaceous  schist, 
and  granite,  of  which  latter  there  are  several  varieties, 
some  resembling  the  grey  granite  of  Aberdeen,  and 
others  the  red  granite  of  Peterhead  ;  many  of  the  rocks 
are  almost  in  a  state  of  decomposition.  Haughton,  the 
seat  of  the  principal  landed  proprietor,  is  an  elegant 
mansion  of  dressed  granite,  beautifully  situated  on  the 
bank  of  the  Don,  in  a  wide  demesne  tastefully  laid  out, 
and  embellished  with  thriving  plantations.  Breda,  an- 
other seat,  and  Kingsford,  recently  built,  are  also  hand- 
some houses. 

The  village  consists,  for  the  most  part,  of  houses  of 
neat  appearance,  to  each  of  which  is  attached  a  portion 
of  land,  and  extends  for  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
along  the  road  to  Aberdeen.  A  post-office  has  been  es- 
tablished, and  facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by 
good  roads,  and  by  substantial  bridges  across  the  various 
streams,  one  of  which,  over  the  Don,  an  elegant  struc- 
ture of  granite,  was  erected  in  1810,  by  the  Parliamen- 
tary Commissioners,  at  a  cost  of  £'2000.  Fairs  are  held 
for  black  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep,  on  the  Tuesday  be- 
fore the  second  Wednesday  in  June,  and  the  Friday 
after  the  second  Thursday  in  September  (O.  S.)  ;  and 
markets  for  black  cattle  and  grain,  on  the  first  Mon- 
day in  every  month,  from  October  till  May.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish  are  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  presbytery  of  Alford  and  synod  of 
Aberdeen;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £106.  17.  4.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £6.  13.  4.  per  annum  ; 
patron,  the  Crown.  The  church,  erected  in  1804,  and 
enlarged  in  1S26,  is  a  neat  structure,  containing  550 
sittings.  The  parochial  school  is  attended  by  about 
80  children ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4., 
augmented,  by  the  proceeds  of  bequests,  to  £38,  and 
the  fees  average  about  £15  annually.  On  the  summit 
of  a  hill  called  Carnaveran,  supposed  to  signify,  in  the 
Gaelic  language,  "  the  Cairn  of  Sorrow,"  is  a  cairn  in 
the  form  of  a  truncated  cone,  120  feet  in  diameter  at 
the  base,  in  removing  a  portion  of  which  were  found 
several  coffins  of  flat  stones. 

ALLAN,  BRIDGE  OF,  a  village,  in  the  parishes  of 
Lecropt  and  Logie,  county  of  Stirling,  4  miles  (N.) 
from  Stirling;  containing  561  inhabitants.  This  vil- 
lage, which  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  Allan,  formerly  consisted  only  of  a  few  irregular 
and  detached  cottages,  and  derived  its  chief  importance 
from  an  ale  and  porter  brewery  that  had  been  esta- 
blished here,  towards  the  close  of  the  last  century. 
From  its  proximity,  however,  to  the  mineral  spring  of 
Airthrie,  and  the  well  of  Dunblane,  of  which  the  water, 
discovered  in  1814,  has  been  found  to  possess  similar 
properties,  but  of  milder  operation,  the  village  has 
rapidly  increased  in  extent  and  population,  and,  on  the 
failure  of  a  project  for  conveying  the  water  of  the  latter, 
by  pipes,  into  the  town  of  Dunblane,  has,  in  that  re- 
spect, attained  precedence  as  a  place  of  fashionable 
resort.  An  excellent  inn  for  the  accommodation  of 
visiters,  and  numerous  houses  for  the  reception  of 
families  residing  here  during  the  summer  months,  have 
been  erected  within  the  last  few  years,  and  are  fully 
occupied ;  and  good  shops,  amply  stored  with  articles  of 
36 


every  kind,  have  been  opened  for  their  convenience. 
The  environs  abound  with  pleasing  scenery,  among 
which  the  grounds  of  Keir  House  form  a  conspicuous 
feature ;  and  are  interspersed  with  handsome  villas,  in- 
habited by  opulent  families.  The  river,  near  the  village, 
rushes  with  impetuosity,  through  a  deep  glen  richly 
wooded,  forming  an  interesting  and  secluded  retreat. 
The  spring  of  Airthrie  rises  on  the  high  grounds  above 
the  village,  on  the  estate  of  Airthrie,  and  was  discovered 
several  years  since,  during  the  working  of  a  copper- 
mine  ;  the  water  is  a  saline  aperient,  similar  to  that  of 
Cheltenham,  but  not  so  strong,  containing,  as  its  chief 
ingredients,  common  salt,  muriate  of  lime,  and  sulphate 
of  lime,  and  has  been  fast  advancing  in  reputation,  espe- 
cially for  scorbutic  complaints.  The  water  of  Dunblane 
Well  has  been  analysed  by  Dr.  John  Murray,  an  emi- 
nent physician,  and  found  to  contain,  in  one  imperial 
pint,  '24  grains  of  muriate  of  soda  ;  of  muriate  of  lime, 
IS  grains  ;  of  sulphate  of  lime,  3 "5  grains  ;  of  carbonate 
of  lime,  '5  grains  ;  and  of  oxide  of  iron,  "17  grains. 
The  woollen  manufacture  is  carried  on  to  a  small  ex- 
tent, for  which  there  is  a  mill  at  the  hamlet  of  Keir ; 
and  there  is  also  a  paper  manufactory.  The  members  of 
the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship. 

ALLANTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Edrom, 
county  of  Berwick,  l^mile  (S.)  from  Chirnside  ;  con- 
taining 26/  inhabitants.  This  village,  which  is  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Whitadder  and  Black- 
adder,  is  neatly  built,  and  inhabited  chiefly  by  persons 
employed  in  the  manufactories  in  the  neighbourhood  ; 
some  of  the  houses  are  detached,  and  surrounded  with 
pleasant  gardens.  A  considerable  traffic  is  carried  on 
in  coal,  which  is  brought  from  the  county  of  Northum- 
berland, and  also  from  Eyemouth,  to  which  place  it  is 
sent,  by  sea,  from  Newcastle ;  and  there  is  a  daily  de- 
livery of  letters  in  the  village,  by  a  branch  from  the 
post-office  at  Dunse.  A  place  of  worship  in  connexion 
with  the  Free  Church  has  been  erected. 

ALLOA,  a  burgh  of  barony,  sea-port  town,  and 
parish,  in  the  county  of  Clackmannan,  7  miles  (E.) 
from  Stirling  ;  containing,  with  the  villages  of  Cambus, 
Coalyland,  Holton- Square,  and  Tullibody,  7921  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  5434  are  in  the  burgh,  and  2457  in  the 
East  quoad  sacra  parish.  This  place,  of  which  the  name, 
in  various  documents  Aidewmj  and  Alloway,  is  supposed 
to  signify,  in  the  Gaelic  language,  "  the  way  to  the  sea," 
includes  also  the  ancient  parish  of  Tullibody,  memorable 
for  the  erection  of  its  village,  in  S34,  by  Kenneth  MA1- 
pine,  on  the  plain  where  he  encamped  the  main  body  of 
his  army,  previously  to  the  victory  which  put  an  end  to 
the  Pictish  dynasty  in  Scotland.  In  1149,  David  I. 
erected,  and  annexed  to  the  abbey  of  Cambus  Kenneth, 
which  he  had  founded  on  the  field  where  the  battle  took 
place,  the  church  of  Tullibody,  which  he  endowed  with 
land,  and  with  some  islands  in  the  Frith  of  Forth,  for 
the  maintenance  of  the  officiating  priests.  In  1559,  the 
French  forces  under  General  D'Oysel,  who  were  sta- 
tioned on  the  coast  of  Fife,  on  the  appearance  of  the 
English  fleet,  made  a  precipitate  retreat  to  Stirling ; 
but,  being  retarded  in  their  progress  by  Kirkcaldy  of 
Grange,  who  had  broken  down  the  bridge  of  Tullibody, 
they  unroofed  the  church,  and,  converting  the  timbers 
into  a  temporary  bridge,  effected  their  escape  across  the 
Forth.  The  church,  thus  exposed  to  the  injuries  of  the 
weather,  soon  fell  into  a  state  of  dilapidation ;  and  the 


A  LL  O 


ALLO 


parish  of  Tullibody,  about  the  time  of  the  Reformation, 
became  united  to  that  of  Alloa.  In  1645,  the  Earl  of 
Montrose,  on  the  night,  before  the  battle  of  Kilsyth,  en- 
camped his  forces  in  the  woods  of  Tullibody,  and  was 
hospitably  entertained  by  the  Earl  of  Mar,  in  his  cas- 
tle of  Alloa. 

The  family  of  the  Erskines,  ancestors  of  the  earls  of 
Mar,  were  distinguished,  at  an  early  period,  for  their 
eminent  services  ;  and  John,  the  5th  earl,  who  became 
Regent  of  Scotland,  was  entrusted  with  the  guardian- 
ship of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  who,  during  her  infancy, 
remained  under  his  protection,  at  Alloa  Castle,  till 
1548,  when,  by  order  of  the  estates  of  the  kingdom,  he 
conveyed  her  to  the  court  of  France.  John,  the  6th 
earl,  was  appointed  guardian  to  the  infant  monarch, 
James  VI.,  who  spent  many  of  his  earlier  years  at 
Alloa,  and  also  at  Stirling.  The  castle  of  Alloa,  an- 
ciently one  of  the  residences  of  the  Scottish  kings,  was, 
in  the  13th  century,  given  by  David  II.  to  Lord  Ers- 
kine,  in  exchange  for  the  estate  of  Strathgartney,  in 
the  county  of  Perth.  Of  the  ancient  edifice,  one  tower 
only  is  now  remaining,  S9  feet  in  height,  and  of  which 
the  walls  are  1 1  feet  in  thickness  ;  the  other  portions  of 
the  buildings  which  constituted  the  family  residence, 
were  destroyed  by  an  accidental  fire  in  1S00,  and  a 
splendid  mansion  has  been  since  erected  by  the  Earl  of 
Mar.  This  is  a  spacious  structure,  of  white  freestone 
from  a  quarry  in  the  park,  beautifully  situated  on  a 
gentle  acclivity,  within  about  200  yards  of  the  old 
tower,  and  inclosing  a  quadrangular  area  ISO  feet  in 
length,  and  120  feet  in  breadth.  The  principal  front 
occupies  the  whole  width  of  the  area,  and  is  an  elegant 
specimen  of  the  Grecian  style ;  and  the  interior  con- 
tains numerous  stately  apartments,  superbly  decorated. 
Four  entrance  lodges,  also,  have  been  recently  built ; 
but  the  whole  of  the  arrangements  are  not  yet  com- 
pleted. 

The  town  is  situated  on  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and, 
though  irregularly  built,  consists  of  several  good  streets, 
of  which  John-street,  planned  in  the  year  1704,  is 
about  SO  feet  in  width,  leading  to  the  quay,  and  ter- 
minating in  a  gravel-walk,  shaded  by  a  row  of  lime- 
trees  on  each  side,  and  forming  a  pleasant  promenade. 
The  old  houses  in  the  principal  streets  have  been 
mostly  taken  down,  and  replaced  with  modern  buildings 
of  handsome  appearance ;  and  many  of  the  shops  dis- 
play much  elegance  of  style.  The  streets  are  well 
paved,  and  lighted  with  gas  from  works  erected  in  1821, 
by  a  company  of  shareholders,  at  an  expense  of  £3000  ; 
and  the  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  with  water,  con- 
veyed into  the  town  by  pipes,  from  springs  in  the  vici- 
nity. Considerable  additions  have  been  made  to  the 
town,  which  is  rapidly  extending  towards  the  west ; 
and  within  the  few  last  years  numerous  villas  have 
been  erected,  in  that  direction.  The  Clackmannanshire 
library,  founded  here  in  1797,  is  supported  by  annual 
subscriptions  of  ten  shillings  each,  and  contains  a  col- 
lection of  more  than  1500  volumes;  there  are  also  a 
reading  and  news  room,  and  an  assembly-room.  A 
mechanics'  institution  was  established  in  1826,  and  was, 
for  some  time,  well  supported,  but,  of  late,  has  not  been 
so  warmly  patronized  ;  connected  with  it,  is  a  library  of 
470  volumes. 

The    principal    manufacture    is   that   of   woollens, 
which,  though  formerly  of  very  limited  extent,  has  lat- 
37 


terly  much  increased,  and  for  which  several  additional 
mills  have  been  erected  on  a  large  scale  ;  there  are  at 
present  six  factories,  of  which  four  are  worked  by  steam. 
The  chief  articles  are,  yarns,  plaiding,  shawls,  tartans, 
druggets,  blankets,  and  cloth  of  various  kinds,  together 
affording  employment  to  200  men,  72  women,  and  90 
children  ;  and  connected  with  these  factories,  is  an  ex- 
tensive establishment  for  the  manufacture  of  machinery. 
The  glass  manufacture,  for  which  works,  commenced  at 
an  early  period,  were  extended  by  a  joint-stock  company, 
in  1825,  produces  glass  bottles  equal  to  those  of  New- 
castle, in  Northumberland.  There  are  eight  extensive 
breweries,  of  which  five  are  in  the  town ;  and  the  ale 
produced  is  in  high  repute,  and  is  sent,  in  large  quantities, 
to  London,  and  exported  to  the  continent,  North  and 
South  America,  the  East  and  West  Indies,  and  other 
places.  Large  distilleries  are  conducted  at  Cambus 
and  Carse  Bridge  ;  at  that  of  Cambus,  nearly  6000 
gallons  are  produced  weekly,  consuming  about  374 
quarters  of  malt,  and  feeding  400  head  of  cattle  ;  there 
are  60  men  employed  in  the  establishment,  and  the 
amount  of  duty  paid  to  government,  exceeds  £50,000 
per  annum.  The  distillery  at  Carse  Bridge  is  nearly 
equal  in  extent.  Extensive  tanneries  are  carried  on  at 
Tullibody,  in  which  leather  is  made  to  the  amount  of 
£20,000  annually ;  and  there  are  also  works  for  the 
manufacture  of  glue,  belonging  to  the  same  company, 
and  mills,  driven  by  steam,  for  grinding  bones  for 
manure,  together  affording  employment  to  about  40  men. 
The  iron-foundry,  and  works  for  the  manufacture  of 
steam-engines,  are  also  very  extensive,  employing  nearly 
100  men.  There  are  large  potteries  for  white  and 
coloured  earthenware,  of  every  kind,  and  the  manufac- 
ture of  bricks  and  tiles  occupies  more  than  40  persons  ; 
the  fire-bricks  made  here  are  considered  equal  to  those 
of  Stourbridge,  and  adjoining  the  works  is  a  commodi- 
ous wharf  for  shipping  the  produce.  Ship-building  is 
also  carried  on  ;  vessels  of  300  or  400  tons'  burthen 
are  frequently  built,  and  in  1845,  a  vessel  of  800  tons 
was  built  here,  for  the  foreign  trade.  Boat-building 
is  carried  on,  and  there  is  a  dry  dock  for  repairing  ves- 
sels ;  the  making  of  sails  and  ropes  is  also  considerable, 
and  there  are  numerous  mills,  driven  by  water  and 
steam. 

The  port,  which  includes  the  creeks  of  Kincardine 
and  Stirling,  and  has  recently  been  made  a  bonding 
port,  carries  on  an  extensive  coasting,  and  a  consider- 
able foreign,  trade,  the  latter  chiefly  with  Holland  and 
the  Baltic.  The  principal  exports  are,  coal,  pig-iron, 
woollen  goods,  glass,  ale,  whisky,  leather,  bricks,  and 
tiles;  the  chief  imports,  coastwise,  are,  grain,  malt, 
wine,  groceries,  wool,  and  fullers'-earth,  and,  from 
foreign  ports,  timber,  deals,  hemp,  oak-bark,  and  bones 
for  manure.  The  amount  of  registered  tonnage,  in- 
cluding the  creeks,  is  about  19,000  tons,  of  which  about 
10,000  belong  to  Alloa  ;  the  number  of  vessels  that 
entered  inwards,  in  1838,  was  600,  and  the  number  that 
cleared  outwards,  1250.  The  harbour  is  accessible,  at 
high  water,  to  vessels  of  large  burthen,  which  may  lie  in 
safety  at  the  quays,  which  are  commodiously  adapted  to 
the  loading  and  unloading  of  their  cargoes,  and  on 
which  is  a  custom-house.  The  market-days  are  Wed- 
nesday and  Saturday,  the  latter  being  the  principal,  and 
fairs  are  held  on  the  second  Wednesday  in  Feb.,  May, 
August,  and  November  ;  the  August  fair,  which  is  the 


ALLO 


A  LM  O 


most  numerously  attended,  is  for  hiring  servants,  and 
for  general  business,  and  the  other  three  are  for  cattle. 
The  post-office  has  a  considerable  delivery  ;  and  facilities 
of  intercourse  with  Edinburgh,  Stirling,  and  the  several 
towns  on  the  Forth,  is  afforded  by  numerous  steamers. 
The  town  was  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony,  in  the 
reign  of  Robert  Bruce,  and  is  governed  by  a  baron 
bailie,  appointed  by  the  Earl  of  Mar:  the  courts  of  the 
sheriff  and  justices  of  peace,  have  been  transferred  from 
Clackmannan  to  this  town,  and  a  county  prison  has  been 
just  completed. 

The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the 
Forth,  and  on  the  east  partly  by  the  Black  Devon,  is  of 
very  irregular  form,  comprising  about  5000  acres,  of 
which  43/5  are  arable,  514  woodland  and  plantations, 
and  the  remainder  waste.  The  surface,  though  not 
mountainous,  is  beautifully  diversified  with  hills  of 
moderate  height,  and  fertile  valleys.  From  the  higher 
of  the  eminences,  of  which  none  exceed  400  feet  in  ele- 
vation above  the  Forth,  are  views  of  picturesque  and 
romantic  character ;  a  fine  tract  of  rich  carse  land  ex- 
tends along  the  banks  of  the  Forth,  and  the  scenery, 
enriched  with  wood,  and  interspersed  with  streams,  is 
of  very  pleasing  aspect.  The  river  Devon  flows  through 
the  south-western  portion  of  the  parish,  into  the  Forth, 
at  the  village  of  Cambus,  about  two  miles  from  Alloa  ; 
and  the  Black  Devon,  after  forming  part  of  its  eastern 
boundary,  takes  a  westerly  course,  and  flows  through  the 
parish,  into  the  Frith  of  Forth,  at  Clackmannan.  A 
large  reservoir  called  Gartmorn  Dam,  160  acres  in 
extent,  and  37  feet  in  depth,  was  formed  by  John,  Earl 
of  Mar,  about  the  year  1/00,  by  throwing  a  dam-head 
across  the  Black  Devon,  at  Forest  Mill ;  the  bed  of  that 
river  was  thus  raised  16  feet  above  its  former  level,  and 
from  it  he  carried  an  aqueduct  of  four  miles  in  length, 
for  the  supply  of  this  reservoir,  which  he  constructed 
for  driving  the  machinery  of  the  Alloa  colliery,  and  of 
several  mills. 

The  soil  of  the  lower  lands  is  richly  fertile,  but  of  the 
higher,  thin  and  light,  on  a  cold  tilly  bottom  ;  the  prin- 
cipal crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  and  oats,  with  the  various 
green  crops.  The  system  of  husbandry  has  been  much 
improved,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Clackmannanshire 
Agricultural  Society ;  the  lands  have  been  well-drained, 
and  partially  inclosed,  and  the  farm-buildings  are  com- 
modiously  arranged.  The  cattle  are  chiefly  of  the  Ayr- 
shire breed,  with  a  few  of  the  short-horned,  though 
no  great  number  are  reared  ;  and  a  few  sheep,  of  various 
kinds,  are  fed  for  the  butcher.  Very  little  of  the  ancient 
forests  of  Clackmannanshire  is  now  remaining  ;  the  prin- 
cipal woods  are  those  of  Tullibody,  in  which  are  many 
stately  trees  of  venerable  growth.  The  plantations  consist 
mostly  of  oak  and  other  hard- wood  trees,  intermixed  with 
firs;  they  are  regularly  thinned,  and  are  in  a  thriving  state. 
The  substrata  are,  sandstone  of  different  colours,  clay- 
slate,  limestone,  and  coal,  which  last  occurs  in  seams 
varying  from  a  few  inches  to  nine  feet  in  thickness ;  of 
the  sandstone,  two  quarries  are  wrought,  to  a  very  mode- 
rate extent,  the  one  of  white,  and  the  other  of  a  reddish, 
colour.  The  coal  is  extensively  worked  in  three  several 
fields,  the  Coalyland,  the  Carse  Bridge,  and  the  Sauchy, 
which  extends  into  the  parish  of  Clackmannan  ;  the 
average  quantity  annually  raised  amounts  to  nearly 
80,000  tons,  which  are  conveyed  by  railroads  to  the 
harbour  at  Alloa.  Tullibody  House,  the  seat  of  Lord 
38 


Abercromby,  and  the  birth-place  of  General  Sir  Ralph 
Abercromby,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  bank  of  the 
Forth,  in  a  richly-planted  demesne,  abounding  with, 
fine  old  timber,  and  surrounded  by  thriving  plantations. 
Shaw  Park  House,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Mansfield,, 
formerly  the  property  of  the  Cathcart  family,  is  a  hand- 
some mansion  on  elevated  ground,  about  two  miles  to 
the  north  of  the  Forth,  and  commanding  a  very  exten- 
sive view,  embracing  the  windings  of  the  river,  with  the 
castle  of  Stirling,  and  the  mountains  of  Ben  Lomond, 
Ben  Ledi,  and  Tinto,  in  Clydesdale. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  the  presbytery  of  Stirling  and  synod  of  Perth 
and  Stirling ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  £299.  3.  2.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued 
at  £63 ;  there  is  also  an  assistant  minister,  who  receives 
the  interest  of  two  bequests,  one  of  £800,  and  the  other 
of  £500.  The  parish  church,  erected  by  the  heritors 
and  feuars,  in  1819,  on  a  site  given  by  the  late  John 
Francis,  Earl  of  Mar,  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  later 
English  style,  with  a  square  embattled  tower  sur- 
mounted by  a  lofty  spire,  together  207  feet  in  height, 
and  contains  1561  sittings  :  the  steeple  of  the  old 
church  is  still  remaining,  and  near  it  is  the  mausoleum 
of  the  Erskine  family.  The  ancient  church  of  Tullibody, 
which  had  been  in  disuse  from  the  time  of  the  Reforma- 
tion, was  restored  about  ten  years  since,  and  again  ap- 
propriated to  the  purposes  of  divine  worship.  There  are 
also  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church, 
the  United  Secession,  Independents,  Wesleyans,  and 
Swedenborgians  ;  and  an  episcopal  chapel,  erected  in 
1840  from  a  design  by  Mr.  Angus.  The  parochial 
school  is  well  conducted;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34.  4.  4.,  with  an  allowance  of  £16  in  lieu  of  house  and 
garden,  and  the  fees  average  £25  per  annum.  The  Alloa 
academy  was  erected  in  1824,  by  subscription,  and  for 
some  few  years,  a  salary  was  received  by  the  rector,  whose 
present  income  is  derived  solely  from  the  fees,  of  which 
a  portion  is  paid  to  an  assistant ;  the  course  of  studies  is 
extensive,  and  the  fees  vary  from  5s.  to  lis.  6d.  per 
quarter.  In  repairing  the  road,  in  1828,  about  20  sepul- 
chral urns,  of  Roman  pottery,  were  found,  containing 
burnt  bones,  placed  in  an  inverted  position,  on  a  flag- 
stone ;  also  two  stone  coffins,  about  3  feet  in  length,  in 
each  of  which  was  a  pair  of  bracelets,  of  pure  gold, 
highly  polished,  but  without  ornament,  one  pair  of 
which  was  purchased  from  the  workmen,  by  Mr.  Drum- 
mond  Hay,  and  deposited  in  the  Antiquarian  Museum, 
Edinburgh.  Several  Roman  coins  have  been  discovered 
in  different  parts  of  the  parish  ;  and  a  few  years  since,  a 
brass  coin  was  dug  up,  having  the  letters  S.C.  on  the 
one  side,  and  on  the  other,  the  legend "  Augustus  Tri- 
bunus."  About  a  mile  to  the  east  of  the  town,  is  an 
ancient  upright  stone  called  the  Cross,  near  which, 
about  40  years  since,  human  bones  were  found,  and  a 
coffin  of  flagstones,  3  feet  in  length,  on  which  were  cut 
two  small  figures  of  the  cross. 

ALMOND-BANK,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Meth- 
ven,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  245  inhabitants.  The 
population  is  engaged  principally  in  the  public  works  on 
the  river  Almond  ;  and  a  portion  finds  employment  in  a 
hand-loom  weaving  establishment  at  Woodend,  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  village.  There  is  a  flourishing  unen- 
dowed school  here,  the  teacher  of  which  is  nominated 
by  the  patron  of  the  parish,  who,  with  some  other  per- 


A  LT  I 


ALVA 


sons,  makes  a  contribution  for  his  support.  In  digging 
a  trench  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  skull  of  an  animal 
was  recently  discovered,  supposed  to  be  of  the  ox  tribe, 
which  existed  wild  in  Scotland  some  centuries  ago  ;  it- 
measured,  from  between  the  centre  of  the  horns  to  the 
nose,  two  feet  four  inches,  and  the  horns  were  sixteen 
inches  in  circumference,  in  their  thickest  part.  The 
curiosity  fell  to  the  possession  of  the  late  Lord  Lyne- 
doch. 

ALNESS,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, 9  miles  (N.  E.  by  N.)  from  Dingwall ;  contain- 
ing 1269  inhabitants,  of  whom  202  are  in  the  village. 
This  parish,  which  takes  its  name  from  two  Gaelic 
words  signifying  a  "  burn,"  or  small  river,  and  a 
"  point,"  is  about  20  miles  in  extreme  length,  and  5  in 
average  breadth.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Kin- 
cardine parish  ;  on  the  south  by  the  Cromarty  Frith, 
which  is  here  2  miles  broad  ;  on  the  east  by  the  parish 
of  Rosskeen,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  river  of 
Alness  •  and  on  the  west  by  Kiltearn,  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  the  river  Auldgrande.  The  surface,  to- 
wards the  Frith,  is  for  the  most  part  flat,  but,  in  the 
northern  part,  mountainous  and  wild ;  the  climate  is 
dry  and  salubrious,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the 
parish  is  pleasing,  being  well-wooded,  and  presenting  an 
agreeable  variety  of  moor  and  well- cultivated  land.  In 
the  northern  quarter,  are  two  fresh-water  lochs,  one  of 
which,  called  Mary,  is  distinguished  both  for  its  great 
depth  and  the  lofty  and  abrupt  mountain  scenery  in  its 
vicinity;  the  salmon  and  salmon-trout  taken  in  the 
Frith  and  rivers,  are  of  very  superior  quality,  and  would 
be  numerous  were  it  not  for  the  illegal  depredations 
committed  during  the  interdicted  season.  The  chief 
rock  in  the  parish  is  the  old  red  sandstone ;  immense 
boulders  of  granite  and  gneiss  are  seen  in  different 
places,  especially  in  the  moorland  districts,  and  some 
iron-ore  has  also  been  discovered,  about  5  miles  from 
the  Frith,  embedded  in  a  gneiss  rock.  The  only  village 
is  Alness,  which  is  nearly  equally  divided  between  this 
and  the  neighbouring  parish  of  Rosskeen,  by  the  river  of 
Alness  ;  in  the  Rosskeen  portion,  a  market  is  held  for 
the  sale  of  cattle,  monthly.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Dingwall  and  synod  of 
Ross  ;  the  family  of  M'Kenzie,  of  Cromarty,  are  patrons, 
and  the  minister's  stipend  is  £230.  19.  11.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £12  per  annum.  The 
church,  which  was  built  in  17S0,  is  in  good  condition, 
and  holds  S00  people.  A  Free  Church  place  of  wor- 
ship has  been  just  erected.  The  parochial  school  affords 
instruction  in  every  branch  of  education;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £20  fees.  There  is  also  a 
school  supported  by  the  Society  for  Promoting  Christian 
Knowledge,  of  which  the  teacher  has  a  salary  of  £15,  and 
land  valued  at  £5  per  annum,  with  the  school-fees. 
Another  is  maintained  by  the  funds  raised  under  the 
auspices  of  the  General  Assembly,  and  its  master  re- 
ceives a  salary  of  £20,  and  has  a  house,  and  a  small 
piece  of  ground.  At  Multivie,  in  the  parish,  two  cairns 
were  opened  some  years  since,  and  found  to  contain 
human  bones  of  a  remarkably  large  size. 

ALTIVAIG,  a  small  island,  in  the  parish  of  Kil- 
mtjir,  county  of  Inverness.  It  is  one  of  several  islets 
extending  from  Aird  point,  southward,  to  Ru-na- 
Braddan,  on  the  north-eastern  coast  of  the  Isle  of  Skye, 
and  is  about  two  miles  in  circumference,  and  very  fer- 
39 


tile ;  it  has  a  harbour,  with  good  ground  for  anchorage, 
but  from  being  open  to  the  North  Sea,  it  is  judged  to 
be  unsafe.  The  soil  is  appropriated  to  the  pasturage 
of  sheep. 

ALVA,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Stirling,  7  miles 
(N.  E.  by  E.)  from  Stirling;  containing 2216  inhabitants, 
of  whom  2092  are  in  the  village.  The  name  of  this 
place,  the  orthography  of  which  has  successively  passed 
through  the  different  forms  of  Alueth,  and  Alvath,  or 
Alveth,  to  that  of  Alva,  is  of  Gaelic  origin,  and  is  sup- 
posed to  be  derived  from  the  term  Ailblieaeli,  signifying 
"  rocky,"  and  to  have  been  applied  to  this  spot,  as  de- 
scriptive of  the  general  character  of  its  hills.  The  parish 
is  locally  situated  in  Clackmannanshire,  and  formerly 
belonged  to  that  county,  by  which  it  is  bounded  on  all 
sides  except  the  north,  where  it  touches  Perthshire  ; 
but,  after  the  beginning  of  the  17  th  century,  it  was  an- 
nexed to  the  county  of  Stirling,  though  four  miles  dis- 
tant from  its  nearest  point,  to  which  it  has  since  been 
united  in  all  respects,  till  associated,  for  political  pur- 
poses, under  the  Reform  act,  to  its  ancient  shire.  It 
comprises  about  4120  acres,  of  which  S67  are  arable, 
30/2  natural  pasture,  including  140  or  150  acres  of  cul- 
tivated grass,  and  181  are  wood.  The  lands,  on  the 
north,  consist  principally  of  the  Alva  hills,  which  con- 
stitute the  most  interesting  and  beautiful  portion  of  the 
Ochil  range,  forming  here  a  rich  mineral  district,  tra- 
versed in  all  directions  by  large  flocks  of  sheep,  and 
ornamented  with  numerous  cascades.  At  the  base 
of  these  lofty  elevations,  commences  a  valley,  a  part  of 
which,  stretching  towards  the  south,  covers  the  rest  of 
the  parish,  and  is  replete  with  richly  diversified  and 
highly  picturesque  scenery,  embracing,  at  its  margin, 
the  river  Devon,  which  runs  along  the  boundary  of  the 
parish  in  this  direction,  and  contains,  like  most  of  the 
burns,  abundance  of  excellent  trout.  The  most  lofty 
of  the  Ochils,  Bencloch,  or  Bencleugh,  rises  2420  feet 
above  the  Devon,  and  is  situated  at  the  north-eastern 
extremity  of  the  parish,  commanding,  from  its  summit, 
not  only  fine  views  of  local  scenery,  but,  in  the  distant 
prospect,  the  whole  Grampian  range,  with  part  of  thir- 
teen counties,  and  their  villages  and  towns. 

The  soil  has  several  varieties  ;  that  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Devon,  which  overflows  its  banks  two  or  three  times 
in  the  year,  is  a  rich,  sandy,  alluvial  earth,  of  great 
depth,  and  forming  what  is  termed  haugh  land.  Next  to 
this,  northerly,  is  a  strong  clay,  after  which  follows  a 
tract  of  moss,  from  50  to  100  yards  broad,  and,  in  some 
parts,  7  feet  deep  ;  and  the  remaining  portion  of  the 
arable  ground,  extending  to  the  hills,  is  a  rich  hazel 
mould,  mixed  occasionally  with  gravel  and  small  stones. 
The  system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  highly  improved  state; 
the  crops  consist  of  wheat,  oats,  barley,  peas,  beans, 
clover,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  and  a  small  portion  of 
ground  is  annually  planted  with  woad  for  dyeing.  The 
hills  belong  to  the  trap  formation,  and  contain  heavy 
spar,  onyx,  and,  among  many  other  pebbles,  that  called 
the  Ochil  eye,  which  is  said  to  be  peculiar  to  this  range. 
The  chief  celebrity  of  the  parish,  however,  as  a  mineralo- 
gical  district,  has  arisen  from  its  treasure  of  silver  ore, 
which  was  discovered  and  worked,  between  the  years 
1710  and  1715,  by  Sir  John  Erskine,  who  is  said  to 
have  derived  from  it  £4000  per  week,  and  an  aggregate 
of  £40,000  or  £50,000,  the  material  being  so  pure  as  to 
afford  12  oz.  of  silver  from  14  oz,  of  ore,     Attempts  to 


ALVA 


ALVA 


obtain  the  precious  metal  were  afterwards  renewed,  in 
1759,  by  a  branch  of  the  same  family,  who  had  pur- 
chased the  barony,  when  veins  were  discovered  of  lead, 
copper,  iron,  and  cobalt ;  but  the  silver  was  found  in 
such  small  portions,  that  the  pursuit  was  abandoned, 
and  the  cobalt  being  so  plentiful,  and  of  such  good 
quality,  was  worked  extensively,  and  has  since  proved  a 
source  of  considerable  wealth  to  the  different  proprie- 
tors. The  woods  and  plantations  are  so  extensive  and 
beautiful  that  they  form  a  prominent  feature  in  the 
scenery,  and  invest  this  place  with  a  peculiarly  sylvan 
appearance,  especially  when  contrasted  with  the  sur- 
rounding country.  Woodhill,  elevated  1620  feet  above 
the  lowest  ground,  is  shrouded  with  almost  every  de- 
scription of  rich  foliage,  for  more  than  two-thirds  of  the 
ascent,  the  plantations  around  the  base  comprising  oak, 
elm,  ash,  beech,  and  larch,  with  various  species  of  pine, 
planted  by  Sir  John  Erskine.  Those  on  the  east  and 
west  sides  of  the  hill  were  planted  by  Lord  Alva,  and 
subsequent  proprietors  of  the  mansion  of  Alva,  which 
is  on  a  projecting  part  of  the  eminence,  and  commands 
very  extensive  prospects.  The  old  mansion  of  the 
Stirlings,  of  Calder,  in  Clydesdale,  who  possessed  origi- 
nally these  estates,  and  afterwards  of  the  Erskines,  was 
enlarged  and  modernised  in  1820;  it  is  surrounded  by 
elegantly  laid-out  grounds,  interspersed  with  stately  ash- 
trees  and  several  venerable  oaks,  and  the  road  to  the 
village  church,  about  a  mile  distant,  is  through  an  avenue 
of  richly  verdant  foliage. 

The  village,  which  is  of  considerable  extent,  but  of 
very  irregular  form,  having  been  built  at  different 
periods,  and  increased  by  cottages  and  houses  erected 
on  ground  leased  under  Sir  John  Erskine  and  Lord 
Alva,  has  been  doubled  in  size  within  the  last  fifty 
years  ;  it  has  been  known  for  its  manufacture  of  serges, 
ever  since  the  latter  part  of  the  17th  century.  A  wool- 
len-mill was  first  established  in  1801  ;  the  number  of 
mills  has  now  increased  to  eight,  besides  many  smaller 
works,  and  the  present  articles  wrought  are,  plaidings, 
blanketings,  and  coarse  stuffs,  those  of  chequered  cassi- 
meres,  carpets,  shawls,  and  trowser-cloths  having  more 
recently  been  added.  The  quantity  of  wool  annually 
consumed  is  about  480,000  pounds,  chiefly  from  the 
Cheviot  sheep;  and  in  the  manufacture  of  these  articles, 
which  are  sold  at  Stirling,  Perth,  and  Edinburgh,  but 
chiefly  at  Glasgow,  about  560  persons  are  employed. 
The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Stirling  and  synod  of 
Perth  and  Stirling,  and  in  the  patronage  of  James  John- 
stone, Esq.;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £157.  5.  4.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe,  valued  at  £27  per  annum.  The 
church  was  formerly  mensal,  and  belonged  to  the 
bishopric  of  Dunkeld ;  the  edifice  was  built  in  1632,  by 
Alexander  Bruce,  then  proprietor  of  Alva,  and  was  en- 
tirely rebuilt  in  1815,  at  the  expense  of  James  Raymond 
Johnstone,  Esq.,  with  seats  for  586  persons,  and  is  at 
present  in  very  good  repair.  The  cups  for  the  commu- 
nion service  were  made  from  the  silver  found  in  the 
parish,  and  presented  by  Lord  Alva,  in  1767-  The  pa- 
rochial school  is  situated  in  the  village  ;  the  master  has 
a  salary  of  £29.  18.  10.,  and  £28  fees.  The  only  anti- 
quities are,  several  large  stones  supposed  to  be  Druidical. 
The  hawk  used  formerly  in  sporting,  of  the  species/afco 
peregrinus,  is  a  native  of  this  parish,  and  has  nestled, 
from  time  immemorial,  in  a  lofty  perpendicular  rock 
called  Craigleith  :  from  this  place,  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots, 
40 


procured  falcons,  after  her  arrival  from  France,  and  a 
short  time  since,  a  pair  of  these  birds  were  sent  by  the 
proprietor  of  Alva,  to  the  Duke  of  St.  Alban's,  king's 
falconer  in  England. 

ALVAH,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Banff,  3  miles 
(W.  S.  W.)  from  Banff;  containing  1407  inhabitants. 
The  origin  of  the  name  of  this  place,  which,  in  different 
records,  is  variously  spelled,  is  altogether  involved  in 
obscurity ;  but  authentic  sources  of  information  still 
remain,  throwing  light  on  the  apportionment  of  its 
lands,  in  early  times,  to  several  distinguished  families  ; 
and  in  1314,  a  charter  was  granted  by  Marjory,  relict 
of  John,  Earl  of  Atholl,  and  Lord  Strath-Alveth,  con- 
veying the  patronage  of  the  kirk,  with  considerable  pro- 
perty here,  to  the  abbot  of  Cupar.  The  parish,  from 
which  that  of  Forglen  was  disjoined,  prior  to  the  middle 
of  the  17th  century,  is  situated  near  the  north-eastern 
extremity  of  the  county,  separated  from  the  Moray 
Frith  by  only  a  small  intervening  portion  of  the  parish 
of  Banff,  and  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  shire  of 
Aberdeen,  where  the  line  of  division  is  very  nearly 
marked  by  the  course  of  the  river  Doveran.  It  com- 
prises 11,133  acres,  of  which  6955  are  cultivated,  3428 
waste  and  pasture,  and  750  wood,  and  exhibits  through- 
out an  uneven  and  rugged  surface,  occasionally  marked 
by  lofty  elevations,  among  which  the  hills  of  Alvah  and 
Maunderlea  are  the  most  conspicuous,  the  former  rising 
578,  and  the  latter  733,  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
scenery  in  the  western  and  south-western  portions,  is 
dreary  and  wild,  and  takes  its  character  chiefly  from 
the  numerous  eminences  connected  with  the  Hill  of 
Maunderlea,  which  stretches  in  a  northerly  direction 
from  the  parish  of  Marnoch.  In  the  other  parts  it 
possesses  great  picturesque  beauty,  being  ornamented  by 
the  silvery  meanderings  of  the  Doveran,  and  the  lofty 
and  majestic  hill  of  Alvah,  which,  rising  from  the  midst 
of  rich  and  well  cultivated  lands  surrounding  its  base, 
displays  a  profusion  of  sylvan  beauty  on  its  sloping 
sides,  and  commands,  from  its  tabular  summit,  diversi- 
fied views  in  several  directions.  The  Doveran,  being, 
in  one  place,  impeded  by  a  rocky  barrier  stretching 
from  east  to  west,  takes  a  curve  for  about  a  mile,  when, 
meeting  with  an  outlet  through  a  chasm,  the  precipitous 
sides  of  which  are  united  by  a  massive  arch,  erected  in 
1772,  by  the  late  Earl  of  Fife,  it  resumes  its  former 
direction,  and  passes  through  some  very  bold  and  ro- 
mantic scenery.  The  sides  of  the  rocky  chasm,  after 
expanding  themselves,  form  a  lofty  acclivity  on  each 
side  of  the  intermediate  basin,  and,  rising  like  the  walls 
of  a  majestic  amphitheatre,  about  100  feet  above  the 
stream,  exhibit  a  grotesque  and  imposing  assemblage  of 
shrubs,  trees,  and  mosses. 

The  soil,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  through 
which  the  river  takes  its  course,  consists  of  an  alluvial 
loam  of  considerable  depth,  incumbent  upon  blue  clay 
containing  admixtures  of  clay-slate,  and  in  the  remain- 
ing portion  of  the  lower  grounds,  the  earth  rests  upon 
a  coarse  diluvial  clay,  mixed  in  some  places  with  fer- 
ruginous sand,  shingles,  and  occasionally  boulders.  In 
the  higher  grounds,  it  has  a  subsoil  frequently  of  a 
very  sandy  nature,  much  interspersed  with  shingles,  and 
pieces  of  greywacke  slate  and  other  rocks.  The  annual 
average  amount  of  produce  is  £19,800,  of  which  up- 
wards of  £10,000  are  derived  from  oats,  and  the  re- 
mainder from  turnips,  potatoes,  hay,  and  pasture,  and 


ALVA 


A  L  V  E 


a  small  quantity  of  bear  and  barley.  The  cattle  are  of 
the  Aberdeenshire  breed,  or  approximating  very  closely 
to  it;  but,  within  the  last  few  years,  the  Teeswater,  or 
short-horned,  have  been  introduced  upon  several  of  the 
best  farms,  where  they  thrive  well,  and  are  often  used 
for  a  cross  with  the  native  cow.  Within  the  present 
century,  considerably  more  than  2000  acres  of  waste 
have  been  improved,  a  large  portion  of  which  was 
covered  with  furze  and  heath  ;  and  fenny  or  boggy 
grounds  have  also  been  reclaimed  to  a  great  extent,  by 
draining.  Lime  is  employed  for  manuring  the  lands,  and 
bone-dust  has  been  recently  applied,  in  soils  adapted  to 
it,  with  great  advantage.  The  rocks  consist  princi- 
pally of  clay-slate  and  greywacke  ;  the  latter  is  suc- 
cumbent,  and  interlined  with  thin  veins  of  quartz,  and 
the  line  of  bearing,  with  a  trifling  variation,  is  from 
north-east  to  south-west,  dipping  to  the  north-west. 
The  angle  of  elevation  of  the  clay-slate  varies,  and  in- 
creases from  the  low  grounds,  where  the  rock  is  almost 
horizontal,  till  it  arrives  at  nearly  a  perpendicular,  to- 
wards the  top  of  the  hill  of  Alvah.  The  plantations, 
including  about  300  acres  formed  in  the  course  of  the 
present  century,  contain  mostly  Scotch  fir  and  larch, 
among  which  are  trees  of  beech,  ash,  oak,  elm,  plane, 
&c.  The  chief  mansion  is,  the  House  of  Montblairy, 
built  in  1791,  and  since  repaired  and  considerably  en- 
larged, situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Doveran,  on  a 
sloping  bank,  in  the  midst  of  thriving  and  beautiful 
plantations,  and  containing  a  gallery  of  fine  portraits  of 
illustrious  individuals.  Dunlugas,  about  half  a  mile 
distant,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  was  erected 
in  1/93,  of  granite,  and  is  a  spacious  structure,  orna- 
mented with  a  lawn  in  front,  stretching  to  the  margin 
of  the  river,  and  embellished  with  several  lofty  trees  ; 
the  back-ground,  with  its  plantations  of  thriving  and 
sable  firs,  furnishing  a  striking  contrast  to  the  sur- 
rounding scenery.  The  parish  contains  six  meal-mills, 
a  malt-mill,  a  lint-mill,  and  thirty-one  threshing-mills, 
the  last  of  which  have  been  erected  during  the  last 
thirty  years  :  and  a  distillery,  built  about  fifteen  years 
since,  on  the  estate  of  Montblairy,  at  an  expense  of 
£4000,  was  till  lately  in  full  operation,  and  capable  of 
producing  40,000  gallons  of  spirits  annually. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Turriff  and  synod 
of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage  of  Sir  Robert  Aber- 
cromby,  Bart. ;  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £]  78.  15.  5., 
and  there  is  a  manse,  built  in  1764,  and  repaired  in 
1S15,  with  a  glebe  containing  between  6  and  7  acres, 
valued  at  about  £25  per  annum.  The  church  is  a  plain 
edifice,  erected  in  1792.  There  is  a  parochial  school, 
the  master  of  which  gives  instruction  in  Latin,  occa- 
sionally in  Greek  and  French,  and  in  all  the  ordinary 
branches  of  education  ;  he  has  a  salary  of  £30,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  fees,  with  a  house,  and  a  portion  of  the  Dick 
bequest.  The  antiquities  are  few  and  unimportant,  con- 
sisting chiefly  of  several  cairns  and  Druidical  circles, 
not  of  sufficient  consideration  to  merit  notice.  The  ruins 
of  the  ancient  castle,  which  formerly  stood  near  Mont- 
blairy, and  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  one  of  the 
Stewarts,  earls  of  Buchan,  are  no  longer  visible  ;  and 
those  of  the  old  chapel,  near  the  same  spot,  have  been 
removed  of  late  years.  On  the  estate  of  Sandlaw,  and 
in  several  other  places,  large  trees  have  been  found,  at 
a  great  depth  below  the  surface  ;  and  memorials  of  the 
ancient  cultivation  of  the  soil,  may  be  traced  over  about 
Vol.  I.— 41 


1000  acres  of  land,  at  present  the  poorest  in  the  district. 
Alvah  is  celebrated  for  its  fine  springs,  the  principal  of 
which,  called  Comes-well,  and  mentioned  by  that  name 
in  a  charter  more  than  500  years  old,  discharges  twenty- 
seven  gallons  per  minute  of  water  almost  as  clear  as 
that  produced  by  distillation  ;  and  there  are  also  several 
chalybeates,  the  most  famed  of  which  are,  the  Red  Gill 
well  at  Brownside  Hill,  and  a  spring  on  the  hill-head  of 
Montblairy.  Dr.  George  Chapman,  author  of  a  treatise 
on  education,  was  born  here  in  1723  ;  and  Major-Gen. 
Andrew  Hay,  who  fell  on  the  14th  of  April,  1814,  at 
Bayonne,  in  the  fifty-second  year  of  his  age,  and  to 
whose  memory  a  monument  was  erected  in  St.  Paul's 
Cathedral,  at  the  public  expense,  was  a  resident. 

ALVES,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Elgin,  5  miles 
(W.)  from  Elgin,  on  the  road  to  Inverness  ;  containing, 
with  the  hamlets  of  Coltfield  and  Crook,  913  inhabit- 
ants. This  parish,  which  is  about  5  miles  long,  and  of 
nearly  the  same  breadth,  and  contains  about  12,000 
acres,  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parish  of  Duffus, 
the  Moray  Frith,  and  part  of  Kinloss  ;  by  the  hill  of  Plus- 
carden  on  the  south  ;  by  New  Spynie  on  the  east ;  and 
by  Kinloss  and  Rafford  on  the  west.  The  surface  is 
slightly  diversified  with  hill  and  dale,  and  consists  of 
pasture  and  arable  land,  with  a  considerable  quantity 
of  wood,  though  but  little  water.  The  soil,  in  gene- 
ral, is  a  deep  rich  loam,  upon  a  clay  bottom,  though, 
in  some  places,  it  is  of  a  lighter  quality  ;  the  land  is 
portioned  into  25  large  farms,  which  are  cultivated  in 
the  best  manner,  but  about  100  acres  consist  of  Scotch 
fir,  and  one-sixth  part  of  the  parish  of  new  plantation. 
All  kinds  of  produce  are  raised,  and  a  great  part  of  the 
grain  is  shipped  at  Burgh-Head,  or  Findhorn,  and  sold  in 
the  London  market.  The  cattle  are  usually  of  a  mixed 
breed  between  the  Aberdeenshire  and  the  Highland,  with 
a  few  of  the  polled  from  Buchan  ;  great  improvements 
have  been  carried  on,  for  some  years  past,  in  draining, 
making  of  extensive  inclosures,  recovering  of  mosses, 
and  the  erection  of  good  farm-houses  and  offices. 
The  rocks  consist  of  freestone,  of  which  quarries  are 
regularly  worked ;  there  is  a  quarry  supplying  mill- 
stones, and  in  several  places  a  considerable  depth  of 
peat-moss  occurs.  There  are  two  mansion-houses; 
Milton-Brodie,  an  ancient  edifice,  at  the  west  end  of  the 
parish,  to  which  a  handsome  front  has  been  recently 
added,  greatly  improving  its  appearance  ;  and  the  house 
of  Newton,  a  plain  building,  at  the  east  end,  with  a 
pleasing  lawn  before  it.  The  population  are  agricultural, 
and  live,  for  the  most  part,  in  groups  of  houses  ;  the 
fuel  formerly  in  use  was  peat,  but  the  cutting  of  it  has 
been  recently  prohibited,  and  at  present  great  efforts 
are  made  by  the  poor  to  obtain  English  coal,  cargoes 
of  which  are  imported  from  Sunderland,  and  landed  at 
Burgh-Head  and  Findhorn.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Elgin  and  synod  of 
Moray  ;  the  Earl  of  Moray  is  patron,  and  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £215.  1.  S.,  with  a  good  manse,  recently 
built,  and  having  convenient  offices  and  garden,  and 
a  glebe  of  four  acres  of  land,  worth  £9  a  year.  The 
church,  built  in  1*69,  is  a  long  narrow  edifice,  con- 
taining sittings  for  590  persons.  There  is  a  place  of  wor- 
ship in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church  ;  also  a  parochial 
school,  of  which  the  master  teaches  Latin,  Greek,  and 
the  mathematics,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  branches  of 
education,  and  has   a  salary  of  £34.  4.     Another  school 

G 


AL  VI 


ALYT 


is  maintained  by  subscription  ;  and  a  parochial  library 
is  supported,  which  contains  about  200  volumes. 

ALVIE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Badenoch, 
county  of  Inverness,  9  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Kingussie ; 
containing,  with  part  of  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Insh, 
972  inhabitants,  of  whom  73  are  in  the  village  of  Lyn- 
chat.  This  place  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name, 
signifying  the  "  Isle  of  swans,"  from  the  situation  of  its 
ancient  church  on  a  peninsula,  in  the  north-west  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish,  formed  by  Loch  Alvie,  which, 
from  time  immemorial,  has  been  frequented  by  numbers 
of  that  aquatic  fowl.  The  parish,  which  is  intersected 
by  the  river  Spey,  extends  for  nearly  twenty  miles  in 
length,  from  north  to  south,  including  the  outline  of  the 
hills  which  terminate  in  the  Grampian  range ;  and 
varies  from  two  to  six  miles  in  breadth,  from  east  to 
west.  It  is  calculated  to  comprise  about  84  square 
miles,  or  53,600  acres,  of  which  2574  are  arable,  1S42 
meadow  and  pasture,  and  the  remainder,  exclusively  of 
some  large  tracts  of  wood  and  plantations,  moorland 
and  waste.  The  surface  is  generally  high,  that  portion 
of  the  strath  of  Badenoch  which  is  within  the  parish 
having  an  elevation  of  nearly  650  feet;  and  is  diversi- 
fied with  numerous  hills  and  mountains,  of  which  the 
Grampians,  forming  the  southern  boundary,  rise  to  the 
height  of  4500  feet  above  the  sea,  and  those  on  the 
north-west  boundary,  though  of  inferior  elevation,  attain 
a  very  considerable  height. 

The  river  Spey,  which  rises  in  the  braes  of  Bade- 
noch, near  Lochaber,  flows  through  the  parish,  in  a 
direction  nearly  from  west  to  east;  and  the  small  river 
Feshie  falls  into  the  Spey,  near  the  church  ;  salmon  are 
sometimes  taken  in  the  Spey.  Loch  Alvie  is  about  a 
mile  in  length,  and  half  a  mile  in  breadth  ;  the  average 
depth  is  about  11  fathoms,  and  the  surrounding  scenery 
is  pleasingly  picturesque.  The  soil  is  generally  light  and 
gravelly,  with  the  exception  of  the  meadow-lands  on  the 
banks  of  the  Spey,  which  are  luxuriantly  rich  ;  the  chief 
crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips, 
with  the  various  grasses.  The  system  of  husbandry  has 
been  gradually  improving,  and,  on  some  of  the  larger 
farms,  is  in  a  very  advanced  state  ;  on  the  smaller 
farms,  it  has  made  comparatively  little  progress.  There 
are  very  few  inclosures,  and  the  farm-buildings  are  of 
inferior  order  ;  little  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of 
live  stock  ;  the  sheep  are  commonly  of  the  black-faced, 
and  the  cattle  of  the  Highland  black  breed.  The  hills 
and  mountains  are  composed  chiefly  of  gneiss,  inter- 
sected with  veins  of  granite  and  red  porphyry ;  the 
granite  occurs  in  two  varieties  ;  the  white,  which  is  pre- 
ferred for  building,  and  more  easily  dressed,  and  the 
red,  which  is  harder  and  more  durable.  Limestone  is 
quarried  on  the  lands  of  Dunachton  ;  and  veins  of  lead 
are  found  in  the  gneiss  at  Tyncaim,  and  the  burn  of 
Raitts,  on  the  lands  of  Belleville. 

The  principal  seats  are  Belleville  and  Kinrara.  The 
former  is  a  spacious  and  elegant  mansion,  built  after  a 
design  of  the  architect  Adam,  by  James  Macpherson, 
translator  of  Ossian's  poems,  and  beautifully  situated  in 
a  picturesque  demesne,  embellished  with  stately  timber 
and  thriving  plantations  ;  within  a  cluster  of  larches,  is 
an  obelisk  of  marble,  erected  to  the  memory  of  Mr. 
Macpherson,  and  on  which  is  his  bust,  fine  sculptured. 
Kinrara,  a  handsome  mansion  in  the  cottage  style,  built 
by  the  late  Duchess  of  Gordon,  and  in  which  she  re- 
42 


sided,  during  the  summer  months,  till  her  decease,  is  in 
a  highly  romantic  and  sequestered  spot,  about  two 
miles  from  the  church  of  Alvie.  In  the  grounds,  is  a 
monument  of  granite,  erected  by  the  late  duke,  to  the 
memory  of  the  deceased,  whose  remains  "were  brought 
from  London,  and  interred,  at  her  own  request,  in  a 
spot  which  she  had  selected ;  and  on  Tor  Alvie,  to  the 
north-west  of  the  cottage,  is  a  monument  erected  by  the 
present  duke,  to  the  officers  of  the  42nd  and  92nd 
regiments  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Waterloo.  At  Lyn- 
viulg,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  church,  is  a  branch 
post-office  ;  and  facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  the  turnpike-road  from  Edinburgh  to  Inverness, 
which  passes  through  the  whole  length  of  the  parish. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  presbytery  of  Abernethy  and  synod  of  Moray  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £15S.  4.  6.,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £5  per  annum ;  patron,  the  Duke  of 
Richmond.  The  church,  situated  on  the  shore  of 
Loch  Alvie,  is  a  plain  structure,  built  in  1798,  and  re- 
paired in  1832,  and  contains  500  sittings.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  well  conducted ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £28.  IS.  9.,  with  a  house,  and  an  allowance  of  £2.  2. 
in  lieu  of  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £20  per 
annum.  Another  school,  of  which  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £20,  with  £  1 0  fees,  is  supported  by  the  Gene- 
ral Assembly.  At  Delfour,  about  a  mile  to  the  west  of 
the  church,  are  the  remains  of  a  Druidical  temple,  con- 
sisting of  two  concentric  circles  of  upright  stones,  of 
which  the  inner  circle  is  25  feet,  and  the  outer,  which 
consists  of  larger  stones,  is  55  feet  in  diameter ;  near 
it  is  an  obelisk,  8  feet  6  inches  in  height,  and  both  are 
situated  in  the  middle  of  an  arable  field  which  is  under 
cultivation.  At  Raitts,  are  the  remains  of  an  artificial 
cavern,  anciently  the  haunt  of  banditti. 

ALYTH,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county  of  Forfar, 
but  chiefly  in  that  of  Perth,  17  miles  (N.  W.)  from 
Dundee;  containing  2910  inhabitants,  of  whom  190  are 
in  the  county  of  Forfar,  and  1846  in  the  village,  which 
is  a  burgh  of  barony.  This  place  appears  to  have  de- 
rived its  name,  signifying,  in  the  Gaelic  language,  an 
"  ascent,"  from  the  gradually  sloping  eminence  on 
which  its  ancient  church,  and  the  older  portion  of  the 
village,  are  built.  The  most  ancient  document  where 
its  name  occurs,  is  a  charter  of  Alexander  II.,  in  1232, 
granting  the  lands  of  Bamff,  in  the  parish,  to  Nessus  de 
Ramsay,  ancestor  of  Sir  James  Ramsay,  Bart.,  the  pre- 
sent proprietor  of  that  estate  ;  the  remainder  of  the 
lands  belonged,  for  many  generations,  to  the  Lyndesays, 
earls  of  Crawford,  till  the  year  1630,  when  they  were 
purchased  by  the  Ogilvy  family.  During  the  wars  of 
the  Covenanters,  the  army  of  the  Marquess  of  Montrose 
was  frequently  stationed  in  the  immediate  neighbour- 
hood ;  and  during  the  siege  of  Dundee  by  General 
Monk,  a  meeting  of  the  principal  inhabitants,  held  in 
the  village,  to  deliberate  on  the  best  means  of  defence, 
was  surprised  by  a  detachment  of  the  English,  who  took 
many  of  the  members  prisoners.  The  parish  is  bounded 
on  the  south-east  by  the  river  Isla,  and  is  about  fifteen 
miles  in  length,  and  from  one  mile  to  six  miles  in 
breadth,  comprising  34,160  acres,  of  which  about  S100 
are  arable,  1070  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the 
remainder  meadow  and  pasture  land.  The  surface  is 
diversified  with  ranges  of  hills,  of  which  those  of  Alyth, 
Loyall,  and  Barry  divide  it  into  two  unequal  districts  ; 


ALYT 


A  M  UL 


the  southern  is  in  the  valley  of  Strathmore,  and  the 
northern  includes  the  forest  of  Alyth,  and  the  Black- 
lunans,  which  last  are  in  the  county  of  Forfar.  The 
height  of  the  lands  varies  from  130  to  nearly  1*00  feet, 
ascending  from  the  Isla  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Blair  ; 
the  hill  of  Kingseat  has  an  elevation  of  11/8  feet,  and 
the  hills  of  Alyth,  Loyall,  and  Barry,  rise  about  700 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  principal  rivers  are,  the  Isla  ; 
the  Ericht,  a  tributary  of  the  Isla;  and  the  burn  of 
Alyth,  which  rises  in  the  forest  of  that  name,  and  falls 
into  the  Isla  at  Inverquiech,  about  two  miles  to  the  east 
of  the  village.  Salmon  occasionally  ascend  the-  river 
Isla,  and  trout  are  found  in  most  of  the  streams,  and  in 
some,  pike. 

The  soil  is  greatly  diversified  ;  on  the  level  lands 
near  the  river,  it  is  a  deep  rich  black  loam  ;  in  the 
Blacklunans  district,  a  lighter,  but  fertile,  loam  ;  on  the 
sides  of  the  hills,  a  fine  sharp  gravelly  soil,  well  adapted 
for  oats,  turnips,  and  potatoes ;  and  in  many  parts, 
peat  moss,  and  moor,  of  which  a  considerable  portion 
might  be  brought  into  cultivation.  The  lands  have 
been  drained  and  inclosed,  and  much  waste  has  been 
reclaimed  ;  the  farm-buildings,  and  the  houses  of  the 
cottars,  are  substantial,  and  the  lands  near  the  Isla, 
which  were  exposed  to  frequent  inundation,  have  been 
protected  by  embankments.  The  hills  afford  good  pas- 
ture for  sheep,  of  which  from  2000  to  3000  are  reared  in 
the  parish,  all  of  the  black-faced  breed  j  the  cattle,  on 
the  uplands,  are  of  the  native  Angus  breed,  and,  on  the 
lower  farms,  a  cross  between  the  Angus  and  the  Tees- 
water.  The  rocks  are  generally  trap  and  conglomerate  ; 
and  the  principal  substrata  are,  mica,  and  clay-slate, 
sandstone  of  the  old  red  formation,  with  some  small 
beds  of  a  light  grey  colour,  and  a  yellowish  compact 
limestone,  well  adapted  for  building.  The  natural  wood, 
of  which  but  little  remains,  is  birch,  hazel,  and  alder; 
and  the  plantations,  of  which  the  greater  part  is  of  re- 
cent date,  are  larch,  and  Scotch  and  spruce  firs,  inter- 
spersed with  various  kinds  of  hard  wood ;  but  the 
larches  are  not  in  a  thriving  state.  Bamft  House  is  a 
handsome  mansion  of  great  antiquity,  with  many  modern 
additions  and  improvements,  pleasantly  situated  about 
three  miles  from  the  village,  in  grounds  commanding 
some  fine  views.  Balhary,  another  seat,  is  a  modern 
mansion,  on  a  rising  ground  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Isla  ;   and  Jordanstone  is  also  a  handsome  residence. 

The  village  is  on  the  burn  of  Alyth,  and  consists  of 
several  streets  of  good  houses,  of  which  those  in  the 
older  part  of  it  are  of  great  antiquity  ;  the  inhabitants 
are  well  supplied  with  water,  and  there  are  three  bridges 
of  stone  over  the  burn,  of  which  the  handsomest  was  re- 
cently built,  by  Sir  James  Ramsay,  to  improve  the  ap- 
proach to  Bamff  House.  Most  of  the  population  are 
employed  in  weaving  coarse  linen,  for  the  manufacturers 
of  Dundee,  producing  annually  more  than  10,000  webs, 
of  150  yards  each  ;  there  is  a  fulling-mill  in  the  village, 
and  also  at  Inverquiech.  The  place  was  erected  into  a 
burgh  of  barony,  in  the  reign  of  James  III.  ;  a  baronial 
court  is  held  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  every  month,  under 
a  baron  bailie  appointed  by  the  Earl  of  Airlie,  who  is 
superior  of  the  burgh,  and  a  sytem  of  police  has  also 
been  established.  A  market,  well  supplied  with  pro- 
visions, was  formerly  held  on  Tuesday  ;  and  fairs  for 
sheep  and  cattle,  are  held  on  the  Tuesday  after  the 
second  Thursday  in  March  ;  the  second  Tuesday,  and 
43 


the  25th,  of  June  ;  the  last  Tuesday  in  July;  the  Tues- 
day before  the  10th  of  October;  the  first  Tuesday  and 
Wednesday,  and  the  Tuesday  after  the  11th,  of  Novem- 
ber; and  the  second  Tuesday  in  December;  all  O.  S. 
A  post-office  under  that  of  Meigle  has  been  established 
here  ;  and  facility  of  communication  is  maintained  by 
good  roads,  kept  in  repair  by  statute  labour,  and  by  the 
Dundee  and  Newtyle  railway.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
of  the  parish  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  pres- 
bytery of  Meigle  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £229.  19-  6.,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £14  per  annum;  patron,  the  Crown. 
The  church,  situated  in  the  village,  is  a  handsome  and 
spacious  structure  in  the  Norman  style,  built  in  1839, 
from  a  design  by  Mr.  Hamilton,  and  contains  1290  sit- 
tings. There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church,  the  United  Associate  Synod,  and  Original 
Seceders,  and  a  small  Episcopal  chapel.  The  parochial 
school  was  erected  in  1835  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34.  4.  4.,  with  a  house,  and  an  allowance  in  lieu  of  a 
garden,  and  the  fees  average  £20  per  annum.  Five  boys 
and  five  girls  are  instructed  and  clothed  from  a  rent- 
charge  of  £30  on  the  Ballindoch  estate.  On  Barry  Hill 
are  some  remains  of  a  Pictish  encampment,  and  of  a 
narrow  bridge  over  the  fosse  by  which  it  was  sur- 
rounded ;  and  on  the  south  side  of  the  hill  are  several 
upright  stones,  supposed  to  commemorate  some  warlike 
exploit.  Stone  coffins,  containing  human  bones,  have 
been  dug  up  near  them.  At  the  influx  of  the  burn 
of  Alyth  into  the  river  Isla,  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
castle  of  Inverquiech  ;  and  at  Corb,  on  the  south-west  of 
the  forest  of  Alyth,  are  the  remains  of  a  castle,  probably 
a  hunting-seat  of  the  earls  of  Crawford.  The  place 
gives  the  title  of  Baron  to  the  Earl  of  Airlie. 

AMISFIELD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Tinwald, 
county  of  Dumfries,  5  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Dumfries; 
containing  140  inhabitants.  This  place,  anciently  Ems- 
field,  was  erected  into  a_  burgh  of  barony  by  Charles  I., 
with  a  weekly  market  and  fairs  ;  at  present,  it  consists 
merely  of  a  few  old  thatched  houses,  which  the  pro- 
prietors are  allowing  to  go  to  decay.  Amisfield  Castle, 
long  the  seat  of  the  ancient  family  of  Charteris,  stands 
west  of  the  high  road  from  Dumfries  to  Edinburgh,  and 
is  a  quadrangular  building,  having  a  high  tower  of  pic- 
turesque appearance  on  the  south-west,  and  a  more 
modern  erection,  now  the  dwelling-house,  on  the  east. 
Near  the  village  are  distinct  vestiges  of  a  Roman  fort. 

AMULRIE,  a  village  and  district,  in  the  parish  of 
Dull,  county  of  Perth,  11  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Crieff; 
containing  406  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  road 
between  Crieff  and  Aberfeldy,  and  is  watered  by  the 
small  river  Bran,  which  flows  hence  in  a  north-eastern 
direction,  and  falls  into  the  Tay  at  Inver,  opposite  to 
Dunkeld.  Here  is  a  sub  post-office  ;  and  an  excellent 
inn,  much  frequented  by  visiters  to  the  neighbouring 
lake  of  Freuchie,  is  distant  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter 
westward  of  the  village.  Fairs  for  cattle  and  sheep  are 
held  on  the  first  Tuesday  and  Wednesday  in  May,  and 
the  Friday  before  the  first  Wednesday  in  November. 
There  is  a  chapel  in  connexion  with  the  Established 
Church,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Committee  of  the 
General  Assembly ;  the  minister  has  a  stipend,  paid 
from  the  royal  bounty,  of  £65,  including  £5  for  com- 
munion elements,  with  a  house  and  garden,  a  few  acres 
of  land,  and  fuel. 

G2 


ANCR 


A  ND  E 


ANABICH,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Harris, 
district  of  Lewis,  county  of  Inverness  ;  containing  41 
inhabitants. 

ANCRUM,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Jedburgh, 
county  of  Roxburgh,  4  miles  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from  Jed- 
burgh ;  containing  1407  inhabitants,  of  whom  499  are 
in  the  village.  This  place,  of  which  the  name,  anciently 
Alnecrumb,  is  derived  from  the  situation  of  its  village  on 
a  bend  of  the  river  Alne,  now  the  Ale,  consisted  for- 
merly of  two  villages  distinguished  by  the  appellations  of 
Over  and  Nether  Ancrum,  of  the  former  of  which  no- 
thing now  remains.  The  principal  event  of  historical  im- 
portance is  the  battle  of  Ancrum  Moor,  which  originated 
in  an  attempt  made  in  1545,  by  Sir  Ralph  Evers  and 
Sir  Bryan  Layton,  to  possess  themselves  of  the  lands  of 
the  Merse  and  Teviotdale,  which  had  been  conferred 
upon  them  by  a  grant  of  Henry  VIII.,  King  of  England. 
The  Earl  of  Angus,  who  had  considerable  property  in 
that  district,  determined  to  resist  this  attempt,  and  a 
battle  between  his  forces  and  those  of  the  English  took 
place,  on  a  moor  about  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  north  of 
the  village,  in  which  the  latter  were  defeated,  with  great 
loss.  In  this  conflict,  both  the  villages  of  Ancrum  were 
burnt  to  the  ground  ;  the  village  of  Nether  Ancrum  was 
soon  afterwards  rebuilt,  but  of  the  other  nothing  remains 
but  the  ruins  of  one  or  two  dilapidated  houses.  The 
parish  comprises  about  8400  acres,  of  which  one-half  is 
arable,  820  woods  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder 
meadow  and  pasture  ;  the  surface  is  pleasingly  undu- 
lated, rising  in  some  parts  into  considerable  eminences, 
and  presenting  a  continued  variety  of  level  plains  and 
sloping  heights.  The  Teviot,  which  forms  the  southern 
boundary  of  the  parish,  and  the  river  Ale,  which  tra- 
verses it  from  east  to  west,  are  the  only  rivers  ;  the 
banks  of  the  latter  are  highly  picturesque  in  several  parts 
of  its  course,  rising  in  some  points  into  precipitous 
masses  of  bare  rugged  rock,  and  in  others  overhung  by 
rocks  richly  wooded ;  both  the  rivers  abound  with  ex- 
cellent trout,  and  are  much  frequented  by  anglers. 

The  soil  is  greatly  varied  ;  on  the  banks  of  the  Teviot 
it  is  luxuriantly  rich,  and  of  great  depth  ;  in  other  parts 
of  less  fertility,  and  in  some  almost  sterile.  The  chief 
crops  are  oats,  wheat,  barley,  potatoes,  turnips,  peas, 
and  beans;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  improved 
state  ;  draining  has  been  carried  on  to  a  considerable 
extent,  and  much  of  the  inferior  land  has  been  rendered 
productive.  Much  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of 
live  stock,  for  which  the  pastures  are  well  adapted  ;  the 
sheep  are  mostly  of  the  Leicestershire  breed,  and  a  cross 
between  that  and  the  Cheviot,  and  the  cattle  are  all  of 
the  short-horned  kind.  The  woods  contain  many  stately 
trees,  and  the  plantations  are  extensive  and  well  ma- 
naged. The  principal  substrata  are,  red  and  white  free- 
stone, which  are  both  of  good  quality,  and  extensively 
wrought  for  the  supply  of  the  surrounding  district. 
Ancrum  House,  the  seat  of  Sir  William  Scott,  Bart.,  is 
a  spacious  and  venerable  mansion,  in  an  extensive  and 
richly- wooded  park,  stocked  with  deer.  Chesters  is  a 
handsome  modern  mansion,  romantically  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  a  deep  and  thickly-wooded  dell,  on  the  bank  of 
the  Teviot ;  and  Kirklands,  in  the  later  style  of  English 
architecture,  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  wooded  height 
on  the  bank  of  the  Ale,  forming  a  strikingly  picturesque 
object  in  the  landscape.  The  village  is  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Teviot ;  facility  of  communication  is  main- 
44 


tained  with  Jedburgh  and  other  market-towns  in  the 
vicinity,  by  good  roads,  and  the  turnpike-road  from 
Edinburgh  to  Newcastle  passes  along  the  eastern  boun- 
dary of  the  parish  for  several  miles. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Jedburgh  and  synod 
of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ;  the  stipend  of  the  incumbent 
is  £223.  16.  6.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£30  per  annum  ;  patron,  Sir  W.  Scott.  The  church, 
which  anciently  belonged  to  the  see  of  Glasgow,  having 
been  annexed  to  it  on  the  dissolution  of  the  abbey  of 
Lindisfarn,  was  rebuilt  in  1*62,  and  is  a  neat  and  sub- 
stantial edifice,  adapted  for  about  520  persons.  The 
parochial  school  is  well  attended ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  £28.  15.  fees,  and  a  good  house 
and  garden.  Till  very  lately,  there  were  considerable  re- 
mains of  what  were  called  the  Maltan  Walls,  which  in- 
closed an  area  of  about  an  acre  and  a  half;  this  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  site  of  a  preceptory  of  the 
Knights  of  Malta,  or  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  said  to 
have  been  established  here  in  the  reign  of  David  I. ;  and 
in  the  adjacent  field,  numerous  human  bones,  and  fre- 
quently entire  skeletons,  have  been  discovered  by  the 
plough.  Within  the  area  of  the  walls,  were  various 
vaults  and  subterraneous  passages,  apparently  the  foun- 
dations of  the  ancient  building  ;  but  even  those  portions 
of  the  outer  wall  which  alone  were  left  standing  have 
disappeared,  and  little  but  the  site  is  now  left.  On  the 
hill  behind  Ancrum  House,  are  the  remains  of  a  circular 
fort,  with  a  triple  intrenehment ;  and  in  the  parish 
are  numerous  caves,  formed  as  places  of  retreat  in  times 
of  danger,  one  of  which  was  the  favourite  resort  of  the 
poet  Thomson,  and  still  bears  his  name.  A  monument 
has  been  raised  over  the  tomb  of  Lilliard,  a  Scotch 
female  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Ancrum  Moor,  covered 
with  wounds,  while  fighting  with  desperate  valour,  and 
was  buried  on  the  spot  where  she  fell.  The  place  con- 
fers the  title  of  Earl  on  the  Marquess  of  Lothian. 

ANDERSTON,  a  burgh,  and  lately  a  quoad  sacra 
parish,  consisting  of  part  of  Barony  parish,  in  the 
suburbs  of  the  city  of  Glasgow,  county  of  Lanark, 
1  mile  (W.)  from  Glasgow ;  containing  3759  inhabit- 
ants. This  place  derives  its  name  from  its  founder, 
Mr.  John  Anderston,  of  Stobcross,  who,  in  1725,  formed 
the  plan  of  a  village,  and  divided  the  lands  of  one  of  his 
most  unproductive  farms  into  building  lots,  thus  laying 
the  foundation  of  a  very  considerable  suburb  to  the  city. 
It  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  Clyde,  and  though 
of  irregular  form,  and  comparatively  less  modern  ap- 
pearance than  others  of  the  suburban  districts,  it  con- 
tains many  well-built  and  handsome  houses  ;  the  lands 
to  the  north  are  chiefly  garden-ground,  and  on  the  banks 
of  the  river  are  several  pleasing  villas,  inhabited  by 
some  of  the  most  opulent  merchants  of  Glasgow.  A 
considerable  part  of  the  population  are  employed  in  the 
cotton  manufacture,  in  the  iron-foundries,  and  in  the 
production  of  machinery ;  many  are  mariners,  be- 
longing to  the  port,  and  there  are  several  shops  of 
various  kinds,  for  the  supply  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  town  was  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony,  by 
royal  charter,  in  1S24,  and  the  district,  which  includes 
parts  of  the  lands  of  Stobcross,  Gushet,  Parsonscroft, 
and  Rankenshaugh,  is  wholly  within  the  parliamentary 
boundary  of  the  city  of  Glasgow.  The  government  is 
vested  in  a  provost,  three  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and 
eleven  councillors,  annually   elected  by  the  burgesses  ; 


ANDR 


A  ND  R 


the  bailies  and  treasurer  from  the  councillors,  and  the 
provost  from  the  burgesses  generally.  The  magistrates 
exercise  civil  jurisdiction  in  pleas  not  exceeding  40 
shillings  in  amount,  and  criminal  jurisdiction  in  all 
cases  within  the  Police  act  ;  courts  for  the  former 
are  held  weekly,  or  every  alternate  week,  and  for  the 
latter  four  times  in  the  week  ;  in  both  of  which,  the  town- 
clerk  acts  as  assessor.  The  burgesses,  on  admission, 
pay  a  fee  of  £2.  2.  The  corporation  have  power  to 
hold  a  weekly  market  and  two  annual  fairs ;  the  fairs 
were  formerly  held,  but  they  have  been  discontinued. 
The  parish  was  formed  in  1S34  ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £300,  derived  from  the  seat-rents,  of  which  £80  are 
secured  by  bond.  The  church  was  originally  built  as  a 
chapel  of  ease,  in  1799,  at  a  cost  of  £"2500,  raised  by 
subscription,  and  has  been  subsequently  repaired  ;  it  is 
a  neat  structure,  and  contains  1246  sittings.  A  school 
for  this  parish,  and  for  that  of  St.  Mark,  has  been 
erected  at  an  expense  of  £1/00,  of  which  £S50  were 
subscribed  by  the  two  parishes,  and  the  remainder 
granted  by  the  treasury  ;  it.  is  a  spacious  building,  con- 
taining three  schools,  attended  by  600  children  paying 
very  moderate  fees.     There  is  also  a  Free  church. 

ANDREW'S,  ST.,  a  city, 
the  seat  of  a  university,  and 
anciently  the  metropolitan 
see  of  Scotland,  in  the  district 
of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of 
Fife,  39  miles  (N.  N.  E.) 
from  Edinburgh  ;  contain- 
ing, with  the  villages  of 
Boarhills,  Grange,  Kincaple, 
and  Strathkinness,  6017  in- 
habitants, of  whom  3959  are 
in  the  city.  This  place,  which 
is  of  very  remote  antiquity, 
formed  part  of  the  territories  of  the  Pictish  kings,  of 
whom  Hergustus,  whose  capital  was  at  Abernethy,  had  a 
palace  or  hunting-seat  near  the  site  of  the  present  town, 
at  that  time  a  forest  frequented  by  wild  boars,  and 
thence,  as  well  as  from  its  situation  on  a  promontory 
overlooking  the  bay,  called  Mucross,  a  name  still  re- 
tained in  that  of  the  present  village  of  Boarhills.  The 
origin  of  the  town  is,  by  tradition,  ascribed  to  St.  Rega- 
ins, abbot  of  the  monastery  of  Patrae,  in  the  Grecian 
province  of  Achaia,  who,  about  the  year  370,  attended 
by  a  company  of  his  brethren,  sailed  from  Patrae,  bear- 
ing with  him  a  portion  of  the  relics  of  the  apostle  St. 
Andrew,  which  had  been  deposited  there,  and  was 
driven  by  a  storm  into  the  bay  of  this  place,  where  with 
difficult}',  after  the  loss  of  their  ship,  the  crew  escaped 
to  land,  with  the  sacred  relics  they  had  preserved.  Her- 
gustus, the  Pictish  monarch,  informed  of  the  arrival  of 
these  strangers,  came  to  visit  them  in  person,  and,  pleased 
with  the  simplicity  and  sanctity  of  their  manners,  became 
a  convert  to  Christianity,  granted  them  his  palace,  with 
the  adjoining  lands,  for  a  settlement,  and,  after  the 
subsequent  erection  of  a  church,  changed  the  name 
Mucross  into  Kilrxjmont,  or  "the  church  of  the  King's 
Mount."  St.  Regulus  lived  for  thirty  years  afterwards 
at  this  place,  under  the  patronage  of  Hergustus,  dis- 
seminating the  doctrines  of  the  Christian  faith  through- 
out this  part  of  the  country,  and  was  buried  in  the 
church  over  which  he  had  so  long  presided.  After  the 
subjugation  of  the  Pictish  dominion,  and  the  establish- 
45 


Seal  and  Arms. 


ment  of  the  Scottish  monarchy,  by  Kenneth  McAlpine, 
that  king  transferred  the  seat  of  government  from 
Abernethy  to  this  place,  to  which,  in  honour  of  the 
Apostle,  he  gave  the  name  of  St.  Andrew's,  by  which  it 
has  ever  since  been  designated  ;  and  on  the  division  of 
the  country  into  dioceses,  in  the  reign  of  Malcolm  III., 
St.  Andrew's  became  the  metropolitan  see  of  the  king- 
dom. In  1120,  an  Augustine  priory  was  founded  here, 
by  Robert,  Bishop  of  St.  Andrew's,  who  also,  in  1140, 
obtained  from  David  I.  a  charter  erecting  the  town  into 
a  royal  burgh.  To  this  important  priory,  the  nomina- 
tion of  the  bishop  was  subsequently  transferred,  from 
the  Culdees.  In  1159,  Bishop  Arnold  commenced  the 
erection  of  the  cathedral,  which  was  continued  under 
his  successors,  for  more  than  a  century  and  a  half,  and 
ultimately  completed  by  Bishop  Lamberton,  a  zealous 
adherent  of  Bruce.  In  1200,  Bishop  Roger  built  the 
castle  of  St.  Andrew's,  which  was,  for  many  years,  the 
residence  of  the  prelates  of  the  see  ;  and  in  1274, 
Bishop  Wishart  founded  a  Dominican   priory. 

After  the  battle  of  Falkirk,  in  1298,  Edward  I.  of 
England  summoned  the  Scottish  parliament  to  meet  at 
St.  Andrew's,  and  compelled  every  member,  with  the 
exception  only  of  Sir  William  Wallace,  to  swear  fealty 
to  his  government ;  and  a  few  years  subsequently,  the 
same  parliament  assembled  here  to  take  the  oath  of 
allegiance  to  Robert  Bruce.  Edward  III.  of  England, 
in  1336,  placed  a  garrison  in  the  castle,  which,  in  the 
year  following,  was  reduced  by  the  earls  of  March  and 
Fife  ;  and  in  1401,  David,  Duke  of  Rothesay,  and 
brother  of  James  I.,  on  a  false  charge  of  treason,  was 
imprisoned  in  the  castle,  by  his  uncle,  the  Duke  of 
Albany,  and  afterwards  removed  to  Falkland,  where  he 
was  starved  to  death.  The  university  of  St.  Andrew's 
was  founded  in  1410,  by  Bishop  Wardlaw,  and,  in  the 
following  year,  was  incorporated  by  charter,  conferring 
all  the  powers  and  privileges  enjoyed  by  foreign  univer- 
sities ;  James  I.,  after  regaining  his  liberty,  visited  the 
establishment,  bestowing  on  its  members  many  marks 
of  his  favour,  and,  in  1431,  granted  them  a  charter  of 
exemption  from  all  taxes,  tolls,  or  services,  in  every  part 
of  the  kingdom.  Bishop  Kennedy,  nephew  of  James  I., 
in  1455,  founded  the  college  of  St.  Salvator,  chiefly  for 
theological  studies  and  the  liberal  arts  ;  the  foundation 
charter  was  confirmed  by  Pope  Nicholas  V.,  and  the  in- 
stitution was  subsequently  endowed  with  numerous 
royal  grants.  In  1471,  the  bishops  of  St.  Andrew's  were 
dignified  with  the  title  of  archbishops,  and  the  metropo- 
litan see  was  elevated  to  the  primacy  of  the  kingdom  ;  in 
1512,  John  Hepburn,  prior  of  the  Augustinian  monas- 
tery, founded  the  college  of  St.  Leonard,  and  endowed  it 
from  the  revenues  of  the  hospital  which  had  been  built 
for  the  reception  of  pilgrims  visiting  the  shrine  of  St. 
Andrew,  and  out  of  his  own  private  property,  chiefly  for 
the  education  of  the  brethren  of  the  convent.  During 
the  numerous  religious  persecutions  which  preceded  the 
Reformation,  George  Buchanan,  afterwards  preceptor  of 
James  VI.,  was  imprisoned  in  the  castle  of  St.  Andrew's, 
for  writing  against  the  Franciscan  friars,  but  contrived 
to  make  his  escape  through  one  of  the  windows,  and 
fled  into  England.  In  1538,  Archbishop  Beaton,  uncle 
and  predecessor  of  Cardinal  Beaton,  began  to  repair  and 
enlarge  the  pedagogium,  or  ancient  seat  of  the  univer- 
sity, which,  on  his  decease,  was  continued  by  the  cardi- 
nal, who  added  largely  to  its  endowment,  and  converted 


A  N  D  R 


AN  D  R 


it"  into  the  college  of  St.  Mary,  or  the  New  College. 
This  establishment,  which  was  subsequently  improved 
by  Archbishop  Hamilton,  was  remodelled  in  1579,  by 
Archbishop  Adamson  and  Buchanan,  and  since  that 
time  has  been  confined  to  the  study  of  theology.  In 
1559,  after  a  sermon  preached  by  John  Knox,  the  re- 
former, the  populace  immediately  commenced  the  de- 
struction of  the  venerable  cathedral  of  St.  Andrew's, 
which,  in  a  few  hours,  they  reduced  to  a  heap  of  ruins  ; 
and  they  afterwards  plundered  and  destroyed  most  of 
the  other  religious  establishments  of  the  city. 

In  1583,  James  VI.,  escaping  from  the  thraldom  in 
which  he  was  held  by  Gowrie,  Glencairn,  and  others, 
shut  himself  up  in  the  castle,  by  connivance  of  the 
governor,  where  he  was  joined  by  a  number  of  his  loyal 
subjects  ;  and  after  his  accession  to  the  English  throne, 
he  assembled  here  a  meeting  of  the  prelates  and  princi- 
pal clergy,  to  deliberate  on  the  future  interests  of  the 
church.  In  1645,  the  Scottish  parliament  met  in  the 
city,  and  passed  sentence  of  death  upon  Sir  Robert 
Spottiswood,  son  of  the  late  archbishop,  and  three  other 
royalists,  who  had  been  taken  prisoners  at  the  battle  of 
Philiphaugh,  and  who  were  publicly  executed  in  the 
principal  street  of  the  city.  In  1679,  Archbishop 
Sharpe  was  murdered  at  Magnus  Muir,  within  four' 
miles  of  the  city,  by  a  party  of  the  Covenanters,  of 
whom  five,  that  were  afterwards  taken  prisoners  at  the 
battle  of  Bothwell  Bridge,  were  executed  on  the  spot 
where  the  murder  was  committed,  and  their  bodies  hung 
in  chains.  Previously  to  the  Reformation,  the  city  was 
a  place  of  considerable  commercial  importance,  and  the 
resort  of  numerous  merchants  from  France,  Holland, 
and  other  trading  ports  ;  and  nearly  300  vessels  had 
been  known  to  arrive  in  the  harbour  ;  but,  after  the 
Reformation,  and  the  consequent  suppression  of  its  ec- 
clesiastical supremacy,  its  trade  and  shipping  fell  into 
rapid  decay.  In  1655,  it  was  so  reduced  that  a  peti- 
tion was  addressed  by  the  magistrates  and  council  to 
General  Monk,  praying  to  be  relieved  from  an  assess- 
ment, on  the  ground  of  "  the  total  decay  of  shipping  and 
sea  trade,  and  the  removal  of  the  most  eminent  inhabit- 
ants;" and  in  1656,  there  was  only  one  vessel,  of  20 
tons  burthen,  belonging  to  the  port.  The  chief  support 
of  the  inhabitants  has  since  been  derived  from  its 
university  ;  and  although  its  trade  has,  in  some  degree, 
revived,  yet  the  city  has  never  regained  its  original 
commercial  importance. 

The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  bay  of  St. 
Andrew's  in  the  German  Sea,  and  mainly  consists  of 
three  spacious  and  nearly  parallel  streets,  of  which  the 
principal  is  South-street,  at  the  western  extremity  of 
which  is  Argyle  Port,  the  only  remains  of  the  ancient 
fortifications  of  the  city  ;  it  is  still  in  good  preservation, 
and  over  the  arched  gateway  are  the  city  arms,  nearly 
obliterated  by  time.  Beyond  South-street,  is  Market- 
street,  to  the  north  of  which  is  North-street ;  and  still 
further  to  the  north,  and  bordering  upon  the  bay, 
was  Swallow-street,  formerly  the  principal  residence  of 
the  'merchants,  but  which  has  long  since  disappeared, 
and  the  site  been  converted  into  a  public  walk  called 
the  Scores.  These  streets  are  intersected,  at  right 
angles,  by  several  smaller  streets  ;  and  a  new  street 
called  Bell-street,  has  recently  been  formed,  connecting 
North  with  Market  street,  and  which  it  is  proposed  to 
extend  to  South-street.  The  houses  are  generally  well 
46 


built,  and  of  handsome  appearance,  and  many  of  them 
are  spacious  ;  the  streets  are  paved,  and  lighted  with 
gas,  and  the  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  with  excel- 
lent water.  A  public  subscription  library  was  esta- 
blished about  18*21,  and  has  now  a  collection  of  more 
than  1200  volumes  ;  a  literary  and  philosophical  society 
was  instituted  in  1S39,  and  a  mechanics'  library  was 
formed  a  few  years  since,  but  shortly  after  became 
extinct.  The  sea-beach  is  well  adapted  for  bathing ; 
and  near  the  castle,  on  an  eminence  overlooking  the 
sea,  a  building  has  been  erected,  containing  every  requi- 
site accommodation  of  hot  and  cold  baths.  On  the  ex- 
tensive links  to  the  west  of  the  town,  the  ancient  game 
of  golf  is  pursued  by  the  inhabitants,  as  their  principal 
recreation;  a  club  for  that  purpose,  consisting  of  several 
noblemen  and  gentlemen,  was  established  in  1754,  and 
to  such  an  extent  is  this  amusement  followed,  that  not 
less  than  5000  balls  are  annually  used  by  the  players. 
The  environs  of  the  town  possess  much  beauty  and 
variety  of  scenery,  and  the  numerous  remains  of  its 
ancient  ecclesiastical  structures,  and  its  colleges  and 
public  buildings,  give  to  it  a  venerable  and  interesting 
appearance. 

The    university,    which 

consists  of  St.  Mary's,  or  the 

New,  College,  and  the  united 

xs,  colleges  of  St.  Salvator  and 


St.  Leonard,  is  under  the  con- 
troul  of  a  chancellor,  chosen 
by  the  senatus  academicus  ; 
two  principals,  appointed  by 
the  crown,  one  for  St.  Mary's, 
with  a  stipend  of  £238,  and 
one  for  St.  Salvator's,  with 
an  income  of  £307 ;  and  a 
rector,  annually  elected  by 
the  professors  and  students,  from  the  professors  of 
divinity  and  ecclesiastical  history  in  St.  Mary's,  and  the 
principal  of  St.  Salvator's.  The  professorships  of  divi- 
nity, Hebrew,  and  ecclesiastical  history,  in  St.  Mary's, 
and  the  professorship  of  mathematics  in  the  United 
College,  are  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown,  and  are 
valued  respectively  at  £232,  £211,  £286,  and  £440,  per 
annum.  The  professorships  in  the  United  College  in  its 
own  gift,  are,  the  Greek,  valued  at  £444  ;  logic,  £310  ; 
moral  philosophy,  £372  ;  and  natural  philosophy,  £278  : 
that  of  medicine,  £227,  is  in  the  patronage  of  the  uni- 
versity. The  professorship  of  humanity,  valued  at 
£458,  is  in  the  gift  of  the  Duke  of  Portland  ;  the  profes- 
sorship of  civil  history,  valued  at  £199,  is  in  the  patron- 
age of  the  Marquess  of  Ailsa ;  and  that  of  chemistry, 
founded  from  a  bequest  by  Dr.  Gray,  and  to  which 
the  first  appointment  was  made  in  1840,  is  valued  at 
£70,  and  is  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Leven.  The 
senatus  academicus  consists  of  the  principals  and  pro- 
fessors of  both  colleges,  and  the  rector  of  the  university 
presides  at  its  meetings  ;  by  this  body  alone,  degrees 
are  conferred,  the  several  faculties  recommending  the 
candidates.  The  College  of  St.  Mary  is  confined  to  the 
study  of  theology  ;  the  students  neither  wear  gowns,  nor 
pay  any  fees,  but,  previously  to  their  admission,  must 
have  passed  through  the  ordinary  routine  of  classical 
and  philosophical  studies  in  some  of  the  Scottish  col- 
leges ;  the  session  commences  on  the  1st  of  December, 
and  closes  on  the  31st  of  March.     In  the  gift  of  this 


A  N  D  R 


AN  D  R 


college  are  twenty  bursaries,  among  which  are,  one  of 
£18,  two  of  £15  each,  ten  between  £15  and  £10,  three  of 
£10,  and  one  of  £7  ;  the  college  has  also  the  patronage 
of  several  incumbencies.  The  buildings,  which  have 
been  restored,  and  partly  rebuilt,  occupy  a  quadrangle, 
on  the  north  side  of  which  is  the  university  library,  con- 
taining more  than  45,000  volumes,  open  to  the  use  of 
both  colleges  ;  on  the  west  side,  are  the  divinity  hall 
and  principal's  lodge.  The  front  towards  the  street  has 
been  made  to  harmonize  with  the  new  buildings,  and 
ornamented  with  a  series  of  shields,  containing  the 
armorial  bearings  of  the  several  chancellors  of  the  uni- 
versity, from  its  foundation  to  the  present  time. 

The  Colleges  of  St.  Salvator  and  St.  Leonard  were 
united  by  act  of  parliament,  in  1747,  and  placed  under 
the  superintendence  of  one  principal  ;  the  students  wear 
gowns  of  scarlet  frieze,  and  pay  a  fee  of  £3.  3.  to  each 
of  the  professors  whose  lectures  they  attend  ;  the  ses- 
sion commences  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  October,  and 
closes  on  the  last  Friday  in  April.  In  the  gift  of  the 
college,  are  sixty-four  bursaries,  of  the  aggregate  value 
of  £900  ;  of  these,  there  are  several  of  £20  each,  four 
of  £15,  two  of  £14,  forty  of  £10,  ten  between  £10  and 
£5  each,  and  one  of  £5.  Eight  are  in  the  patronage  of 
the  Madras  school ;  seven  in  that  of  the  university  and 
united  college;  three,  of  £100  each,  in  the  patronage 
of  Sir  Alexander  Ramsay,  Bart.,  for  candidates  of  the 
names  of  Ramsay,  Durham,  Carnegie,  and  Lindsay ; 
and  the  remainder  are  open  to  general  competition. 
The  college  has  also  the  patronage  of  the  livings  of 
Dunino,  Kemback,  Kilmany,  Cults,  and  Forteviot.  The 
buildings  form  a  spacious  quadrangle,  containing  the 
apartments  in  which  the  professors  deliver  their  lectures  ; 
a  hall ;  a  venerable  chapel,  in  which  is  the  tomb  of  the 
founder  of  St.  Salvator's,  Bishop  Kennedy,  with  an  in- 
scription partly  obliterated  ;  and  a  museum  connected 
with  the  literary  and  philosophical  society  of  St.  An- 
drew's. The  chapel,  which  was  formerly  much  larger, 
and  had  an  exquisitely  groined  roof,  since  removed,  from 
an  unfounded  apprehension  of  insecurity,  is  now  used 
as  the  parish  church  of  St.  Leonard.  In  the  tomb  of 
Bishop  Kennedy  were  found,  an  exquisitely  wrought 
silver  mace,  now  appropriated  to  the  use  of  the  college, 
and  five  others,  of  which  two  are  preserved  in  the 
college  of  St.  Mary,  and  one  each  were  presented  to 
the  universities  of  Aberdeen,  Glasgow,  and  Edinburgh. 
The  college  also  possesses  two  silver  arrows  which 
■were  annually  awarded  as  prizes  to  a  company  of  archers, 
from  the  year  16  IS  to  1751,  and,  after  being  held  by 
the  winners  for  one  year,  were  returned  with  silver 
medals  attached  to  them ;  to  one,  are  appended  39 
medals,  weighing  together  166  ounces,  and  to  the  other, 
30,  weighing  55  ounces.  Of  the  college  of  St.  Leonard, 
now  in  ruins,  all  that  remains,  are,  the  roofless  chapel, 
the  hall,  and  some  other  buildings  which  have  been 
converted  into  dwellings  ;  in  the  chapel  are  the  monu- 
ments of  the  founder,  Prior  Hepburn  ;  of  Robert  Stewart, 
Earl  of  March,  Bishop  of  Caithness,  and  commendator 
of  the  priory  of  St.  Andrew's  ;  and  a  mural  monument  to 
Robert  Wilkie,  for  twenty-one  years  principal  of  the 
college.  The  hall  contained  the  refectory  and  dormi- 
tories of  the  students  ;  and  on  one  of  the  walls,  is  the 
inscription  "  Erexit  Gul.  Guild.  S.S.T;D."  with  the  date 
"  1650." 

The  Madras  College,  situated  in  South-street,  was 
47 


founded  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  Andrew  Bell,  one  of  the  pre- 
bendaries of  Westminster,  who,  in  1831,  conveyed,  for 
that  and  other  purposes,  to  the  provost  of  St.  Andrew's, 
the  two  ministers  of  the  parish,  and  the  professor  of 
Greek  in  the  university,  £60,000  three  per  cent  reduced 
annuities,  and  £60,000  three  per  cent  consols.  Of  these 
funds,  five-twelfths  were  to  be  transferred  by  them  to 
the  provost,  magistrates,  and  town  council  of  Edin- 
burgh, Glasgow,  Leith,  Aberdeen,  and  Inverness,  for 
the  foundation  of  schools  on  the  Madras  system  ;  one- 
twelfth  to  the  trustees  of  the  Royal  Naval  School,  for  a 
similar  purpose  ;  and  one-twelfth  to  the  provost  and 
council  of  St.  Andrew's,  for  the  formation  of  a  permanent 
fund  for  the  moral  and  religious  improvement  of  the 
city.  The  remaining  five  shares  were  to  be  vested 
in  the  same  trustees,  substituting  only  the  sheriff  depute 
of  Fife  for  the  professor  of  Greek,  after  the  death  of  the 
present  professor,  for  the  erection  and  endowment  of 
a  college,  to  be  called  the  Madras  College  of  St.  An- 
drew's, and  to  the  establishment  of  eight  bursaries  in 
the  United  College,  tenable  by  such  as  have  been  three 
years  in  the  Madras  College.  Buildings  were,  soon  after 
erected,  in  the  Elizabethan  style,  from  a  design  by  Mr. 
Burn,  architect,  of  Edinburgh,  inclosing  a  spacious 
quadrangular  area,  and  containing  the  requisite  class- 
rooms for  the  school,  and  two  handsome  residences  for 
the  English  and  classical  masters.  The  college,  which 
is  under  the  visitation  of  the  lord-lieutenant  of  the 
county,  the  lord  justice  clerk  of  Scotland,  and  the 
bishop  of  Edinburgh,  is  conducted  on  the  Madras 
system,  by  a  classical  master  and  an  assistant,  and 
an  English  master,  who  has  also  an  assistant,  the 
former  having  a  salary  of  £50,  and  the  latter  of  £25, 
from  the  funds  of  the  college,  in  addition  to  their  fees; 
by  masters  of  arithmetic,  writing,  and  the  modern  lan- 
guages, each  of  whom  has  a  salary  of  £50,  in  addition 
to  their  fees  ;  and  by  masters  of  the  mathematics,  geo- 
graphy, drawing,  and  church  music.  The  total  number 
of  the  pupils  is  about  S00,  including  those  of  the  Eng- 
lish and  grammar  schools  of  the  city,  which  have  been 
incorporated  with  tins  institution  ;  and  about  150  chil- 
dren of  the  poorest  citizens,  also,  receive  a  gratuitous 
education  in  the  establishment. 

The  only  manufactures  in  the  town  are,  that  of  golf 
balls,  of  which  about  10,000  are  annually  made;  and 
the  weaving  of  linen,  for  the  manufacturers  of  Dundee. 
The  trade  of  the  port  is  very  inconsiderable ;  some 
vessels  occasionally  bring  cargoes  of  timber  from  Nor- 
way and  the  Baltic,  but  when  drawing  more  than  four- 
teen feet  of  water,  they  are  obliged  to  discharge  part  of 
their  lading  before  they  can  enter  the  harbour.  The 
number  of  vessels  belonging  to  the  port,  is  fourteen,  of 
the  aggregate  burthen  of  680  tons :  the  harbour  is 
formed  chiefly  by  the  Kinness  rivulet,  and  is  difficult  of 
access;  it  was  deepened  in  1836,  and,  at  spring  tides, 
can  receive  vessels  of  300  tons.  The  river  Eden,  on  the 
northern  confines  of  the  parish,  is  navigable  for  about 
two  miles  from  its  mouth  ;  and  on  its  banks  is  a  dis- 
tillery, to  which  small  vessels  convey  supplies  of  coal 
and  grain,  and  take  back  cargoes  of  spirits.  On  this 
river  is  a  salmon  fishery  belonging  to  the  city,  to  which 
it  pays  a  rental  of  about  £7 ;  there  are  also  several 
boats  employed'  in  the  fisheries  off  the  coast.  The  fish 
usually  taken  are,  haddock,  cod,  ling,  skate,  halibut, 
and  flounders,   of  which  the  produce,  after  supplying 


A  ND  R 


AND  R 


w 

Second  Seal  of  the  Burgh. 


the  home  markets,  is  sent  to  Cupar  ;  and  during  the 
season,  the  greater  part  of  the  boats  are  employed  in 
the  herring-fishery  off  the  coast  of  Caithness.  The  city 
received  its  first  charter  of 
incorporation  from  David  I., 
in  1140,  erecting  it  into  a 
royal  burgh  5  and  under  this 
charter,  confirmed  by  Mal- 
colm IV.,  in  1153,  the  go- 
vernment is  vested  in  a  pro- 
vost, four  bailies,  a  dean  of 
guild,  a  treasurer,  and  twenty- 
two  councillors.  There  are 
seven  incorporated  guilds, 
viz.,  the  smiths,  wrights, 
bakers,  shoemakers,  tailors, 
weavers,  and  butchers,  into  one  of  which  an  individual 
must  be  admitted,  previously  to  his  becoming  a  burgess 
qualified  to  carry  on  trade ;  the  fees  vary  from  £45  to 
£15  for  strangers,  from  £20  to  £l<2  for  apprentices, 
and  from  £2.  10.  to  £1  for  sons  of  freemen.  The  ma- 
gistrates exercise  civil  and  criminal  jurisdiction  within 
the  burgh,  the  former  to  any  amount,  but  the  latter  con- 
fined chiefly  to  petty  offences,  for  which  purpose  they 
hold  a  bailie-court  twice  in  the  week,  and  courts  for 
the  recovery  of  small  debts  on  the  first  Monday  in  every 
month  ;  in  the  latter,  the  number  of  cases  has  greatly 
diminished  since  the  establishment  of  the  sheriff's  small- 
debt  court.  A  dean-of-guild  court  is  also  held,  occa- 
sionally. The  city,  with  the  burghs  of  Anstruther 
Easter  and  Wester,  Crail,  Cupar,  Kilrenny,  and  Pitten- 
weem,  returns  a  member  to  the  imperial  parliament  ; 
the  number  of  qualified  voters  is  about  2S0.  The  town- 
hall,  an  ancient  building,  situated  in  Market- street, 
has  been  recently  enlarged  and  repaired ;  and  the  gaol, 
which  is  chiefly  for  the  temporary  confinement  of  petty 
delinquents,  is  under  good  regulations.  The  market  is 
held  weekly  on  Monday,  and  is  well  supplied  with 
grain ;  and  markets  for  poultry,  butter,  eggs,  and  pro- 
visions of  all  kinds,  are  held  on  Wednesday  and  Satur- 
day. There  are  fairs  on  the  second  Thursday  in  April, 
the  1st  of  August,  and  the  30th  of  November  (all  O.  S.) ; 
the  first,  anciently  called  the  Senzie  Fair,  was  formerly 
of  15  days'  continuance,  and  was  resorted  to  by  mer- 
chants from  various  foreign  ports.  The  post-office  has 
a  daily  delivery;  and  communication  is  maintained 
with  Dundee  and  Edinburgh,  by  good  roads,  of  which 
those  from  Dundee  and  Cupar  meet  in  the  north  of  the 
parish. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  German 
Sea,  and  is  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  two  miles  in 
extreme  breadth,  comprising  10,300  acres,  of  which 
9S40  are  arable,  345  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the 
remainder  meadow,  pasture,  and  waste.  The  surface  is 
generally  level,  except  towards  the  east,  where  the  hills 
of  Balrymonthave  an  elevation  of  370  feet,  and  the  hill 
of  Clatto,  to  the  west,  which  rises  to  the  height  of  548 
feet  above  the  sea  ;  the  coast  is  about  six  miles  in  extent, 
and  is  bounded,  in  some  parts,  with  rocks,  of  which  the 
Maiden  rock,  and  those  of  Kinkell  and  Buddo  are  the 
most  conspicuous.  About  a  mile  from  the  town  is  the 
cave  of  Kinkell,  about  80  feet  in  length,  and  25  feet 
wide  ;  the  roof,  apparently  of  one  entire  stone,  is  about 
1 1  feet  in  height,  but  inclining  so  much  towards  the 
east  as  to  form  an  angle  with  the  floor,  which,  on  the 
4S 


west  side,  about  40  feet  from  the  entrance,  is  covered 
with  plants  whose  growth  is  promoted  by  water  con- 
stantly trickling  from  the  roof.  The  principal  river  is 
the  Eden,  over  which  is  an  ancient  bridge  of  six  arches, 
called  the  Gair  or  Guard  bridge,  built  by  Bishop  Ward- 
law,  and  wide  enough  only  for  one  carriage  to  pass ; 
there  are  also  two  small  rivulets,  of  which  the  larger, 
after  a  course  of  nearly  five  miles,  having  turned  several 
corn-mills,  flows  into  the  harbour,  on  the  south-east ; 
and  the  other  falls  into  the  sea  at  the  north-west  of  the 
city.  The  soil  is  mostly  fertile,  and  the  lands  are  gene- 
rally better  adapted  for  tillage  than  for  pasture,  produc- 
ing abundant  crops  of  grain  of  all  kinds  ;  the  system  of 
agriculture  is  improved,  and  many  acres  of  land  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Eden  have  been  protected  from  inun- 
dation by  embankment.  The  cattle,  which  were  previ- 
ously all  of  the  Fifeshire  breed,  have,  within  the  last 
few  years,  been  mixed  with  various  others  of  recent  in- 
troduction ;  and  the  sheep,  of  which  the  number  has 
been  for  some  time  gradually  increasing,  are  principally 
of  the  Highland  and  Cheviot  breeds.  The  chief  sub- 
strata are,  sandstone,  in  which  are  found  thin  seams  of 
coal,  slate  clay,  and  clay  ironstone  ;  the  sandstone  is  of 
a  grey  colour,  very  durable,  and  of  good  quality  for 
building.  The  plantations,  which  are  mainly  around 
the  houses  of  the  landed  proprietors,  and  in  a  thriving 
state,  are  mostly  ash,  oak,  elm,  beech,  plane,  and  larch, 
with  some  Scotch  firs,  which  are  chiefly  on  the  poorer 
soils. 

The  ecclesiastical,  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  St.  Andrew's  and  synod 
of  Fife ;  the  living  is  collegiate,  consisting  of  two 
charges,  of  which  the  first  is  in  the  patronage  of  the 
Crown,  and  the  second  in  that  of  the  Magistrates  and 
Council  of  the  city.  The  minister  of  the  first  charge 
has  a  stipend  of  £439.  9.  4.,  with  a  glebe  valued  at 
£23  per  annum  ;  and  the  minister  of  the  second  charge 
has  £171.  IS.  2.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£16.  15.  per  annum.  The  parish  church,  originally 
erected  by  Bishop  Turgot,  about  the  commencement  of 
the  12th  century,  is  a  spacious  structure  with  a  tower 
and  spire,  and  anciently  contained  numerous  chapels, 
which  were  suppressed  at  the  Reformation  ;  after  the 
destruction  of  the  cathedral,  it  was  substituted  as  the 
cathedral  of  the  archbishops  of  St.  Andrew's.  It  was 
rebuilt  in  1*98,  and  contains  about  2200  sittings ;  in 
the  aisle  is  a  splendid  monument  of  white  marble,  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Archbishop  Sharpe,  by  his  son,  in 
1679.  A  chapel  in  connexion  with  the  Established 
Church  has  been  recently  erected  at  Strathkinness,  in 
the  parish,  at  a  cost  of  £400,  raised  by  subscription ;  it 
contains  124  fixed  sittings,  and  moveable  benches  for 
about  230  persons;  the  minister  has  a  stipend  of 
£54.  12.,  of  which  one-half  is  paid  by  the  minister  of  the 
first  charge  of  the  parish,  and  the  remainder  by  the 
heritors.  An  episcopal  chapel  was  built  in  1825,  at  a 
cost  of  £1400  ;  there  are  also  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church  and  United  Secession, 
Baptists,  and  Independents.  Among  the  monuments  of 
antiquity  with  which  the  city  and  its  environs  abound, 
are  the  remains  of  the  church  of  St.  Regulus,  which, 
with  every  appearance  of  probability,  is  supposed  to  be 
the  original  structure  erected  by  Hirgustus,  King  of  the 
Picts,  on  his  conversion  to  Christianity.  They  consist 
chiefly  of  the  tower,  108  feet  high  and  20  feet  square  at 


A  N  D  It 


ANDR 


the  base,  formerly  surmounted  by  a  spire ;  and  the 
eastern  portion  of  the  church,  31  feet  in  length,  and  25 
feet  wide,  having  two  windows  on  the  north,  and  two  on 
the  south  side.  Since  the  decay  of  the  spire,  the  tower 
has  been  roofed  with  a  platform  of  lead,  to  which  there 
is  an  ascent  by  a  spiral  staircase  within.  On  the  east 
and  west  faces  of  the  tower,  are  traces  of  several  roofs 
of  different  heights,  with  which  the  church  has  been 
covered  at  various  times  ;  and  from  the  summit  is 
obtained  an  extensive  prospect  over  the  bay  and  the 
adjacent  country. 

The  ancient  Cathedral,  completed  in  1318,  was  a  mag- 
nificent cruciform  structure,  3/5  feet  in  length,  ISO  feet 
across  the  transepts,  and  72  feet  in  mean  breadth,  with 
a  lofty  central  tower,  of  which  nothing  now  remains  but 
the  bases  of  the  columns  whereon  it  was  supported  ;  it 
had  also  two  turrets  at  the  western,  two  at  the  eastern, 
extremity,  and  one  at  the  end  of  the  south  transept, 
each  100  feet  in  height.  Of  this  splendid  structure, 
which  was  destroyed  at  the  commencement  of  the  Refor- 
mation, only  the  eastern  gable,  with  its  turrets,  one  of 
the  turrets  at  the  west,  and  a  portion  of  the  walls,  are 
now  remaining  ;  the  style  of  its  architecture  is  partly 
Norman,  and  partly  of  the  early  and  later  English, 
which  latter  is  more  prominent  in  the  western  portion 
of  the  building,  from  the  greater  richness  of  its  details. 
The  interior  has  been  cleared,  by  order  of  Her  Majesty's 
exchequer,  from  the  accumulated  heaps  of  rubbish  with 
which  it  had  been,  for  years,  obscured  ;  and  such  repairs 
have  been  made  as  were  requisite  for  the  preservation 
of  the  remains.  Within  the  area  of  the  cathedral  pre- 
cincts, which  occupy  a  space  of  about  IS  acres,  are 
some  portions  of  the  Priory,  or  Augustine  monastery, 
founded  by  Robert,  Bishop  of  St.  Andrew's,  and  other 
monastic  buildings,  in  a  state  of  irretrievable  decay  ; 
the  whole  is  inclosed  by  a  wall  erected  by  Prior  Hep- 
burn, originally  almost  a  mile  in  circuit,  20  feet  in  height, 
and  four  feet  thick,  defended  by  16  turrets,  at  irregular 
distances,  and  having  three  handsome  gateways,  above 
one  of  which,  still  remaining,  is  a  mutilated  statue  of 
the  Virgin  Mary.  To  the  north-west  of  the  cathedral, 
on  an  eminence  overlooking  the  sea,  are  the  remains  of 
the  Castle,  rebuilt  by  Bishop  Trail,  about  the  close  of 
the  14th  century;  after  the  murder  of  Cardinal  Beaton, 
in  1546,  it  was  besieged  and  destroyed,  but  was 
subsequently  rebuilt  by  Archbishop  Hamilton,  and 
continued  to  be  the  residence  of  the  prelates  till  1591, 
since  which  period  it  has  been  suffered  to  fall  into  decay. 
The  only  remains  are,  part  of  the  south  side  of  the  qua- 
drangle, with  a  handsome  square  tower,  and  a  few  other 
fragments.  The  ancient  convent  of  Franciscan  friars 
was  demolished  at  the  Reformation,  and  the  site  is  now 
occupied  by  a  part  of  Bell-street ;  and  the  Dominican 
convent  founded  in  1274,  shared  the  same  fate,  with 
the  exception  of  its  chapel,  a  beautiful  specimen  of  the 
early  English  style,  within  the  grounds  of  the  Madras 
College,  and  for  the  preservation  of  which  Dr.  Bell,  the 
founder,  made  due  provision.  On  an  eminence  to  the 
west  of  the  harbour,  are  the  ruins  of  the  Kirkheuch,  a 
Culdee  establishment,  for  a  provost  and  ten  prebenda- 
ries, said  to  have  been  erected  by  Constantine  II.,  in  the 
ninth  century,  and  of  which  Constantine  III.,  after  re- 
signing his  crown,  became  abbot. 

ANDREW'S,  ST.,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Orkney  ; 
containing,   exclusively  of  the  late  quoad  sacra  parish 
Vol.  I. — 49 


of  Deerness,  926  inhabitants.  This  parish  is  situated  on 
the  eastern  coast  of  the  mainland,  and  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  the  Frith  of  Shapinshay ;  on  the  east  by 
Deer  Sound,  which  separates  it  from  Deerness ;  and 
on  the  west  by  the  bay  of  Inganess.  It  is  about  six 
miles  in  extreme  length,  and  two  in  average  breadth, 
and  is  connected  with  the  peninsula  of  Deerness  by  a 
narrow  isthmus  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length  ; 
the  coast  is  so  singularly  indented  with  bays  and  inlets 
from  the  sea,  that  its  form  cannot  be  well  defined,  or  its 
extent  accurately  ascertained,  though  it  is  generally 
estimated  at  13  square  miles,  and  the  line  of  coast  at 
about  IS  miles.  The  surface,  though  generally  low,  is 
intersected  by  three  nearly  parallel  and  equidistant 
ridges  of  inconsiderable  height,  and  diversified  with  hills 
of  gentle  acclivity,  of  which  the  highest  has  an  elevation 
of  350  feet  above  the  sea,  and,  towards  the  north-east, 
terminates  in  precipitous  rocks,  of  strikingly  romantic 
appearance;  in  one  of  these  is  a  remarkable  cavern,  60 
feet  in  length,  and  about  30  feet  wide,  communicating 
with  the  sea  by  a  passage,  through  which  a  boat  may 
pass  at  certain  times  of  the  tide.  Deer  Sound  forms  an 
excellent  roadstead  for  vessels  in  boisterous  weather  ; 
it  is  about  four  miles  long,  and  two  miles  broad,  and  has 
a  depth  of  six  or  seven  fathoms  at  the  entrance,  with  a 
sandy  bottom,  and  affords  good  anchorage  for  vessels  of 
any  size.  Inganess  bay,  on  the  north-west  coast,  about 
two  miles  and  a  half  in  length,  and  more  than  a  mile  in 
breadth,  varies  in  depth  from  three  to  twelve  fathoms, 
and  affords  good  anchorage  and  shelter  from  all  winds. 
Neither  of  these  bays,  however,  is  at  present  much 
frequented. 

The  soil  is  extremely  various  in  different  parts  of  the 
parish,  consisting  of  sand,  loam,  clay,  and  moss,  alter- 
nating, and  frequently  found  in  combination  ;  the  num- 
ber of  acres  under  tillage  is  about  2200  ;  the  chief  crops 
are  oats  and  bear,  with  a  small  proportion  of  potatoes 
and  turnips.  The  farming  is  in  a  very  unimproved 
state  ;  some  attempts  have  been  made  to  drain  the  lands, 
but  very  little  progress  has  hitherto  been  effected  in  the 
general  system  of  agriculture.  Little  attention  has  been 
paid  to  the  improvement  of  the  breeds  of  live  stock  ;  the 
horses  most  in  use  are  those  of  the  Norwegian  kind 
called  the  Garron,  strong  and  hardy,  but  seldom  exceed- 
ing 14  hands  in  height  ;  the  black  cattle  are  small,  thin, 
and  ill-conditioned,  from  the  scantiness  of  the  pas- 
tures ;  and  the  sheep  are  inferior  to  those  of  the  Zetland 
breed,  and  not  so  remarkable  for  fineness  of  wool. 
The  farm-buildings  are  generally  of  stones  and  clay, 
roofed  with  thatch  ;  and  the  few  inclosures  that  have 
taken  place,  are  made  by  mounds  of  turf.  The  rocks 
are  argillaceous  sandstone  and  flag,  apparently  of  the 
old  red  sandstone  formation,  alternated  with  trap,  and 
traces  of  calc-spar  and  pyrites  of  iron  are  found  occa- 
sionally ;  slates  of  inferior  quality,  and  also  freestone, 
are  obtained  in  some  parts. 

The  manufacture  of  kelp,  formerly  carried  on  here  to 
a  great  extent,  has  of  late  been  greatly  diminished  ; 
and  that  of  straw-plat,  which  was  also  extensive,  has 
been  almost  discontinued.  Fairs  for  cattle  are  held  at 
Candlemas,  Midsummer,  and  Martinmas.  The  fish 
generally  found  off  the  coast  are,  cod,  haddocks,  floun- 
ders, skate,  thornbacks,  and  coal-fish  ;  and  crabs,  lob- 
sters, cockles,  and  other  shell-fish,  are  found  on  the 
shores ;  but  no  regular  fishery  of  these  has  been  esta- 

H 


AND  R 


ANNA 


blished.  The  herring- fishery  was  commenced  in  1833, 
and  is  carried  on  to  a  very  considerable  extent ;  curing- 
houses  have  been  erected,  and  there  is  every  prospect 
of  the  formation  of  an  extensive  and  lucrative  herring 
station  at  this  place.  Communication  with  Kirkwall, 
and  with  other  parts  of  the  mainland,  is  maintained  by 
good  roads,  of  which  that  to  Kirkwall  is  one  of  the  best 
in  the  county.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of 
Kirkwall  and  synod  of  Orkney  ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £200,  exclusive  of  £8.  6.  8.  for  communion  elements, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £14  per  annum  ; 
patron,  the  Earl  of  Zetland.  The  church,  built  in  1801, 
and  enlarged  in  1827,  is  a  neat  structure,  conveniently 
situated,  and  containing  400  sittings.  A  Free  Church 
place  of  worship  has  been  erected  here.  The  parochial 
school  affords  the  general  course  of  study  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £27,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the 
fees  average  £9.  There  are  some  slight  vestiges  of 
ancient  chapels  ;  and  on  the  point  of  Inganess  are  traces 
of  an  old  circular  fort  of  stones  and  earth,  command- 
ing the  entrance  of  Deer  Sound.  Several  tumuli  also 
remain,  one  of  which,  on  the  glebe  land,  is  about  140 
yards  in  circumference  at  the  base,  and  12  feet  high  ; 
another,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  is  90  yards 
in  circumference,  and  16  feet  high,  and  a  third,  of  much 
larger  dimensions,  is  situated  on  the  isthmus  at  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  parish. 

ANDREW'S  LHANBRYDE,  ST.,  a  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Elgin,  3  miles  (E.)  from  Elgin  ;  containing 
1176  inhabitants,  of  whom  174  are  in  the  village  of 
Lhanbryde.  To  this  parish,  which  was  anciently  called 
the  barony  of  Kill-ma-Lemnock,  Lhanbryde,  signifying 
in  Gaelic  "The  church  of  St.  Bridget,"  was  united  in 
17 S2,  in  addition  to  two  other  chapels  that  had  been 
joined  before  the  Reformation.  It  is  three  miles  broad, 
from  east  to  west,  and  about  four  long,  from  south  to 
north,  exclusively  of  the  Teindland,  which  is  detached 
one  mile  distant  on  the  south,  and  although  generally 
considered  as  belonging  to  this  parish,  pertains  to  that 
of  Elgin.  It  contains  about  5000  acres,  of  which  four- 
fifths  are  under  cultivation,  and  650  acres  are  woodland, 
and  is  intersected  by  the  great  north  road  and  the  river 
Lossie.  The  isolated  tract  just  named  was  originally 
the  moor  where  the  cattle  were  collected  for  drawing 
part  of  the  teinds  of  both  parishes,  before  they  were 
converted  into  money ;  from  which  circumstance  it  de- 
rives its  name.  The  surface  has,  in  general,  the  appear- 
ance of  a  plain,  in  which  a  series  of  low  hills  rise,  appa- 
rently connected  together,  and  all  covered  with  corn, 
grass,  or  wood.  The  district  is  subject,  in  the  spring 
season,  to  a  succession  of  storms,  some  of  which  are  of 
the  most  violent,  piercing,  and  blighting  nature,  equally 
injurious  to  vegetation  and  to  animal  life.  There  are 
three  lakes  on  the  confines  of  the  parish,  of  which  the 
largest,  called  Spynie,  consisting  of  shallow  water  rest- 
ing upon  a  deep  rich  mould,  offered  a  temptation  to 
drainage,  which,  a  few  years  since,  was  prosecuted  at  an 
expense  of  nearly  £10,000,  but  the  operation  has  not 
yet  fully  succeeded.  These  lakes  abound  with  trout, 
eels,  and  pike,  and  are  visited  by  a  great  variety  of  wild 
ducks,  and  sometimes  by  wild  geese  and  swans.  The 
river  Lossie,  which,  entering  the  parish  at  the  north- 
west corner,  divides  it  there  from  the  town  of  Elgin,  is 
subject  to  great  floodings,  and  the  grounds  on  its  banks 
50 


frequently  suffer  serious  injury ;  salmon,  pike,  trout, 
&c.  are  found  in  it,  though  not  in  any  considerable 
quantity.; 

The  soil  in  general  is  sandy,  yet  fertile  where  the 
land  is  low  and  damp,  for,  in  this  part  of  the  county, 
the  farmer  has  mostly  to  complain  of  drought,  by  which 
he  loses  much  every  summer.  All  kinds  of  grain  are 
produced  in  a  larger  quantity  than  is  necessary  for 
domestic  use,  as  well  as  the  ordinary  green  crops  and 
grasses ;  and  most  of  the  farms  are  of  considerable  size, 
and  occupied  by  gentlemen  of  skill,  and  with  adequate 
capital.  The  whole  extent  of  the  parish  is  incumbent 
upon  a  bed  of  limestone  belonging  to  the  calciferous 
sandstone  of  the  old  red  formation.  About  a  mile 
eastward  of  the  manse,  a  small  section  made  by  the 
burn  of  Llanbryde  exposes  a  bed  of  the  inferior  oolite 
kind;  and  two  miles  north-west  of  the  manse  appear,  at 
Linksfield,  Pitgavei^r,  &c.  insulated  patches  of  the  Pur- 
beck  beds  of  the  wealden,  or  fresh-water  deposit,  rarely 
met  with  in  Scotland.  Limestone  is  burnt  for  agricultural 
and  building  purposes,  and  the  wealden  clays  and 
marls  are  applied  to  fertilizing  the  light  sandy  soil  in 
the  neighbourhood.  Pitgaveny  House  is  a  handsome 
residence,  with  grounds  tastefully  laid  out.  There  is  a 
manufacture  of  malt  in  the  parish;  and  a  cast-iron 
foundry,  and  a  manufactory  of  woollen  stuffs,  are  car- 
ried on,  the  latter  of  which  employs  about  45  hands. 
A  fair  is  held  at  Lhanbryde  on  the  4th  Tuesday  in 
October,  when  cattle,  farming  implements,  and  similar 
commodities,  are  exposed  for  sale.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Elgin  and  synod 
of  Moray ;  the  patronage  is  vested  in  the  Crown  and 
the  Earl  of  Moray,  alternately,  and  the  minister's  sti- 
pend is  £206.  19.,  with  a  manse.  The  church  is  a  com- 
modious building,  and  will  hold  between  400  and  500 
persons.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  the  master  of 
which  has  a  salary  of  £34.  14.,  with  a  house  and  gar- 
den, and  about  £12  fees,  and  teaches  the  classics,  ma- 
thematics, French,  and  Gaelic,  together  with  the  ordi- 
nary branches  of  education.  About  half  a  mile  south 
of  the  manse  is  a  small  square  fort  of  great  antiquity, 
called  the  Tower  of  Coxton,  and  which  appears  to  have 
been  of  considerable  strength.  The  neighbourhood 
affords  numerous  specimens  of  interest,  in  the  form  of 
fossils.  Many  of  the  distinguishing  fossils  of  the  infe- 
rior oolite,  have  been  found  in  the  bed  exposed  by  the 
Lhanbryde  burn;  at  Linksfield  a  great  variety  also  occurs, 
and  of  the  greatest  number  and  interest,  in  a  dark- 
coloured  shale  bed  containing  slabs  of  highly  crysta- 
lized  limestone. 

ANGUS. — See  Forfarshire. 
ANNAN,  a  royal  burgh, 
and  a  parish,  in  the  county 
of  Dumfries,  16  miles  (E. 
S.  E.)  from  Dumfries,  and  79 
(S.)  from  Edinburgh ;  con- 
taining, with  part  of  Bryde- 
kirk  quoad  sacra,  5471  in- 
habitants, of  whom  4409  are 
in  the  burgh.  This  place, 
which  is  of  remote  antiquity, 
and  supposed  to  have  been 
a  Roman  station  of  some  im- 
portance, was,  after  the  de-  Seal  and  Arms- 
parture  of  the  Romans  from  Britain,  occupied  by  the 


ANNA 


ANNA 


ancient  inhabitants  till  their  expulsion  by  the  Northum- 
brian Saxons.  After  the  dissolution  of  the  Saxon  hep- 
tarchy, the  surrounding  territories  were  annexed  to  the 
kingdom  of  Scotland,  in  the  reign  of  Malcolm  Canmore  ; 
and  the  lands  were  subsequently  granted  to  Robert  de 
Bruce,  Lord  of  Annandale,  who  built  a  castle  for  the 
defence  of  the  town,  in  which  he  occasionally  resided. 
From  its  proximity  to  the  English  border,  the  town  was 
frequently  plundered  during  the  Border  warfare,  and 
sometimes  burnt ;  and  it  suffered  greatly  in  the  wars 
consequent  on  the  disputed  succession  to  the  Scottish 
throne,  in  the  reign  of  Edward  I.  of  England.  In  129S, 
the  town  and  church  were  burnt  by  the  English,  but 
were  subsequently  restored  by  Robert  Bruce,  who,  in 
1306,  ascended  the  throne  of  Scotland;  and  in  1332, 
Edward  Baliol,  after  his  coronation  at  Scone,  repaired 
to  the  castle  of  Annan,  whither  he  summoned  the 
nobility  of  Scotland,  to  pay  him  homage.  During  his 
continuance  here,  Archibald  Douglas,  the  firm  adherent 
of  the  Bruces,  having  collected  a  force  of  1000  cavalry 
at  Moffat,  advanced  to  Annan  during  the  night,  and 
having  surprised  and  defeated  his  guards,  Baliol  was 
induced  to  make  his  escape  from  the  castle,  and,  hastily 
mounting  a  horse  with  neither  saddle  nor  bridle,  with 
considerable  difficulty  reached  Carlisle,  without  a  single 
attendant. 

In  1547,  the  town  was  plundered  and  burnt  by  the 
English  under  Wharton,  accompanied  by  the  Earl  of 
Lennox,  on  which  occasion,  as  the  castle  was  at  that 
time  dismantled,  the  inhabitants  fortified  the  church, 
and  for  some  time  successfully  resisted  the  invaders. 
In  the  two  following  years,  the  town  and  the  surround- 
ing district  were  continually  infested  by  the  predatory 
incursions  of  the  English  borderers,  against  whose 
attacks  the  governor,  Maxwell,  levied  a  tax  of  £4000, 
for  repairing  the  castle,  and  placing  it  in  a  state  of  de- 
fence. During  the  regency  of  Mary  of  Guise,  on  the 
arrival  of  a  large  body  of  French  soldiers  in  the  river 
Clyde,  the  greater  number  of  them  were  stationed  in  the 
town,  for  the  protection  of  the  neighbourhood  ;  and  in 
1570,  the  castle  was  again  destroyed  by  the  English 
forces,  under  the  Earl  of  Sussex ;  but  it  was  afterwards 
restored,  and  continued  to  be  kept  up,  as  a  border  for- 
tress, till  the  union  of  the  two  crowns  by  the  accession 
of  James  VI.  At  this  time,  the  town  was  reduced  to 
such  a  state  of  destitution,  that  the  inhabitants,  unable 
to  build  a  church,  obtained  from  that  monarch  a  grant 
of  the  castle,  for  a  place  of  public  worship  ;  and  during 
the  wars  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.,  the  town  suffered  so 
severely,  that,  by  way  of  compensation,  the  parliament, 
after  the  restoration  of  Charles  II.,  granted  to  the  cor- 
poration the  privilege  of  collecting  customs  and  other 
duties  for  their  relief.  The  Highland  army,  on  their 
retreat  before  the  Duke  of  Cumberland,  in  the  rebellion 
of  1745,  encamped  here  on  the  night  of  the  28th  of 
December,  after  having  lost  great  numbers  of  their  men, 
who  were  drowned  while  attempting  to  cross  the  rivers 
Esk  and  Eden. 

The  town,  which  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  river  Annan,  about  a  couple  of  miles  from 
its  influx  into  Solway  Frith,  consists  of  several  spacious 
and  regularly-formed  streets,  intersecting  each  other  at 
right  angles ;  and  is  connected  with  the  country  lying 
upon  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  by  an  elegant 
stone  bridge  of  three  arches  of  65  feet  span,  erected  in 
51 


1824,  at  an  expense  of  £8000.     The  houses  are  well 
built,  and  of  handsome  appearance,  and  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity   are   numerous  villas   and  mansions;    the 
streets  are  paved  and  lighted,  and  the  inhabitants  amply 
supplied  with  good  water.     A  public  library  is  supported 
by  subscription.     From  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  in 
the  environs  of  the    town,    and  the    facilities  of  sea- 
bathing afforded  by  the  Frith,  it  is  a  favourite  place  of 
residence.     The   spinning  of  cotton-yarn,  which  was  in- 
troduced here  in  1785,  is  still  carried  on,  and  affords 
employment  to  about  140  persons  ;  the  factory,  in  which 
the  most  improved   machinery  is  employed,  has  been 
recently  enlarged,   and  the  quantity  of  yarn  produced 
averages  4000  pounds  per  week.     The  usual  handicraft 
trades   requisite  for  the   supply  of  the  neighbourhood, 
are  pursued  ;    and  there  are  numerous   shops,   amply 
stocked  with  various  kinds  of  merchandise.     The  trade 
of  the  port  partly  consists  in  the  importation  of  timber, 
deals,  lath-wood,  and  tar,  from  America  and  the  Baltic, 
in  which  two  vessels  are  employed ;   and  about  thirty 
vessels  are  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade.     The  exports 
are  chiefly  grain  for  the  Glasgow  and  Liverpool  markets, 
and  timber  and  freestone,   for  various  English  ports. 
By  the   steamers  which  frequent   the   port,  grain,  wool, 
live  stock,  bacon,  and  hams,  are  sent  to  Liverpool  and 
the  adjacent  towns  of  Lancashire,  from  which  they  bring 
manufactured  goods  ;  and  the  other  imports  are  mostly 
coal,  slates,  salt,  herrings,  grain,  and  iron,  from  Glasgow 
and  places  on  the  English  and  Irish  coasts.     The  num- 
ber of  vessels  registered  as  belonging  to  the  port,  is  34, 
of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  1639  tons.     The  port,  which 
is  under  the   custom-house  of  Dumfries,  and  is  formed 
by  an  inlet  from  the  river,  has  been  much  improved  by 
the  embankment  of  Hall  meadow,  on  the  Newby  estate, 
by  the  proprietor,  John  Irving,  Esq.,  at  a  cost  of  £3000, 
which  has  rendered  the  channel  of  sufficient  depth  for 
the  safe   anchorage  of  vessels   of  considerable   burthen. 
Two  piers  have  been  erected  by  the  proprietors  of  the 
steamers  frequenting  the  port,  to  which  has  been  formed 
a  road  from  the  burgh,  by  subscription,  at  a  cost  of 
£640  ;   and  a  commodious  inn,  with  good  stabling,  has 
been  built  near  the  jetties,  within  the  enbankment. 

The  ancient  records  of  the  burgh  having  been  de- 
stroyed during  the  frequent  devastations  of  the  town,  a 
charter  confirming  all  previous  privileges,  and  reciting 
a  charter  of  James  V.  in  1538,  by  which  it  had  been 
erected  into  a  royal  burgh,  was  granted  by  James  VI., 
in  the  year  1612;  and  under  this  the  government  of 
the  town  is  in  the  controul  of  a  provost,  two  bailies, 
and  fifteen  councillors.  There  are  no  incorporated  guilds, 
neither  have  the  burgesses  any  exclusive  privileges  in 
trade  ;  the  magistrates  issue  tickets  of  admission  to  the 
freedom  of  a  burgess,  without  any  fee.  Courts  are  held, 
both  for  civil  and  criminal  cases  ;  but  in  neither  do  the 
magistrates  exercise  jurisdiction  to  any  considerable  ex- 
tent. The  burgh  is  associated  with  those  of  Dumfries, 
Kirkcudbright,  Lochmaben,  and  Sanquhar,  in  returning 
a  member  to  the  imperial  parliament;  the  parliamentary 
boundaries  are  not  co-extensive  with  the  royalty,  which 
comprehends  a  much  wider  district ;  the  number  of 
qualified  voters  is  about  ISO.  Anew  prison,  containing 
three  cells,  was  erected  some  years  ago,  in  lieu  of  the 
old  prison,  which  is  dilapidated.  A  market  is  held 
on  Thursday  ;  and  fairs,  chiefly  for  hiring  servants,  are 
held  annually,  on  the  first  Thursdays  in  May  and  August, 

H2 


ANNA 


ANSI 


and  the  third  Thursday  in  October.  Facilities  of  inland 
communication  are  afforded  by  good  roads,  of  which  the 
turnpike-road  from  Dumfries  to  Carlisle  passes  through 
the  parish,  and  by  cross-roads  connected  with  those  to 
Edinburgh  and  Glasgow. 

The  parish  is  about  eight  miles  in  extreme  length, 
and  varies  from  two  and  a  half  to  four  miles  in  breadth, 
comprising  an  area  of  11,100  acres,  of  which  about  1000 
are  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  arable, 
meadow,  and  pasture.  The  surface  is  generally  level, 
with  a  slight  inclination  towards  the  south,  and  is  inter- 
sected by  three  nearly  parallel  ridges  of  moderate  height. 
Of  these,  the  western  ridge  terminates  in  a  conical  hill 
called  Woodcock-air,  which  has  an  elevation  of  320  feet, 
and  is  completely  covered  with  wood ;  and  on  the  coast, 
are  the  Annan  and  Barnkirk  hills,  of  which  the  former 
has  an  elevation  of  256,  and  the  latter  of  120  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  soil,  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  is  a  rich 
alluvial  deposit ;  to  the  west,  a  clayey  loam,  alternated 
with  gravel ;  towards  the  east,  a  poor  deep  loam  ;  and 
in  the  northern  districts,  mostly  light,  with  tracts  of 
moor  and  moss.  The  chief  crops  are  grain  of  all  kinds, 
and  the  most  improved  system  of  husbandry  is  generally 
in  use ;  a  large  open  common,  of  nearly  2000  acres,  has 
been  divided  among  the  burgesses,  and  is  now  inclosed 
and  cultivated ;  the  farm-buildings  are  substantial  and 
well  arranged.  The  pastures  are  rich ;  the  cattle  are  of 
the  Galloway  breed,  with  a  few  of  the  Ayrshire  and  short- 
horned  ;  there  are  few  sheep  reared,  but  on  most  of  the 
farms  a  considerable  number  of  pigs  are  fed.  Salmon, 
grilse,  and  trout  are  found  in  the  Annan,  and  in  the 
Frith ;  and  in  the  former  are  three  fisheries,  one  the 
property  of  Mr.  Irving;  the  fish  taken  are,  sparling, 
cod,  haddock,  sturgeon,  turbot,  soles,  and  skate.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £13,297,  including 
£5163  for  the  burgh.  The  principal  substrata  are,  fine 
sandstone  well  adapted  for  building,  limestone,  and 
ironstone  ;  several  attempts  have  been  made  to  discover 
coal,  which  are  supposed  to  have  failed  only  from  the 
borings  not  having  been  made  to  a  sufficient  depth. 
Mount  Annan,  the  seat  of  the  late  Lieut. -Gen.  Dirom, 
is  a  handsome  mansion,  situated  on  an  eminence  on  the 
eastern  bank  of  the  Annan,  about  two  miles  from  the 
town,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  Frith  and  the 
northern  counties  of  England  ;  the  grounds  are  taste- 
fully embellished,  and  the  scenery  is  picturesque.  War- 
manbie,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Annan,  about  half  a 
mile  to  the  south  of  Mount  Annan,  is  an  elegant  man- 
sion, erected  within  the  last  few  years,  and  surrounded 
with  pleasure-grounds  ;  and  Northfield  House,  on  the 
same  river,  is  also  a  handsome  mansion,  recently  en- 
larged. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Annan  and  synod  of 
Dumfries  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £279-  2.  4.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £30  per  annum;  patron, 
Hope  Johnstone,  Esq.,  of  Annandale.  The  church, 
erected  in  1790,  is  a  handsome  structure,  with  a  spire, 
and  contains  1190  sittings.  A  second  church,  situated 
on  the  south  of  the  town,  a  very  handsome  building, 
affording  accommodation  to  950  persons,  was  erected  at 
a  cost  of  £1400,  and  opened  in  1842;  and  there  are 
also  places  of  worship  for  Episcopalians,  Independents, 
Roman  Catholics,  members  of  the  Free  Church,  United 
Associate    Synod,    and    Relief   Church.     The  parochial 


school  is  attended  by  nearly  100  children  ;  the  master  has 
a  salary  of  £31.  16.  6.,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the 
fees  average  about  £40  per  annum.  The  Annan  academy, 
for  which  a  building  has  been  erected,  containing  commo- 
dious class-rooms,  was  built  and  endowed  with  the  funds 
arising  to  the  burgh  from  the  division  of  the  common 
land  ;  it  is  under  the  direction  of  a  rector  and  two  assist- 
ant masters,  and  is  attended  by  140  pupils;  the  income 
from  the  endowment  is  £1 13,  and  the  fees  are  consider- 
able. The  only  remains  of  the  castle  of  Annan,  are,  a 
small  portion  of  one  of  the  walls,  incorporated  in  the  town- 
hall,  and  a  stone  built  into  a  wall  of  a  small  house,  with 
the  inscription,  "Robert  de  Brus,  Comte  de  Carrick,  et 
seiniour  de  Val  de  Annand,  1300."  About  two  miles 
from  the  town,  and  to  the  north  of  the  Carlisle  road, 
was  a  rude  monument  to  the  memory  of  the  Scots  who 
fell  in  a  battle  with  the  English,  in  which  the  latter  were 
defeated,  with  great  slaughter ;  among  the  English  slain 
in  the  conflict,  were,  Sir  Marmaduke  Longdale,  Sir 
Philip  Musgrave,  and  Lord  Howard,  whose  remains 
were  interred  in  the  churchyard  of  Dornock.  Close  to 
the  spot,  is  a  well  in  which  the  Scots  washed  their 
swords  after  the  battle,  and  which  has  since  been  called 
the  "Sword  Well."  Near  the  site  of  the  castle,  is  an 
artificial  mound,  supposed  to  have  been  the  spot  for 
administering  justice,  during  the  times  of  the  Saxons ; 
and  further  up  the  river,  is  an  elevated  bank  called 
Galabank,  the  place  of  execution.  On  Battle  HilJ,  has 
been  lately  discovered  a  mineral  spring,  of  great  strength, 
which  has  not  yet  been  analysed.  The  celebrated  Dr. 
Thomas  Blacklock ;  Hugh  Clapperton,  the  African  tra- 
veller ;  and  the  late  Rev.  Edward  Irving,  minister  of 
the  Scottish  church  in  Regent- square,  London,  were 
natives  of  the  place. 

ANSTRUTHER  EAST- 
ER, a  burgh,  sea-port,  and 
parish,  in  the  district  of  St. 
Andrew's,  county  of  Fife, 
9  miles  (S.  S.  E.)  from  St. 
Andrew's,  and  35|  (N.  E. 
by  N.)  from  Edinburgh ; 
containing  997  inhabitants. 
This  place,  which  is  of  great 
antiquity,  was,  in  the  reign 
of  Malcolm  IV.,  the  property 
of  William  de  Candela,  Lord 
of  Anstruther,    whose  sons  'Burgh  Seal. 

assumed  the  name  of  their  patrimonial  inheritance,  and 
whose  descendants  are  the  present  proprietors.  It  ap- 
pears to  have  derived  its  early  importance  from  its 
favourable  situation  on  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  the  se- 
curity of  its  harbour,  in  which,  on  the  dispersion  of  the 
Spanish  armada,  the  captain  of  one  of  the  vessels  found 
an  asylum  from  the  storm.  The  town,  which  was 
first  lighted  with  gas  in  1841,  is  separated  from  the  pa- 
rish of  Anstruther  Wester  by  a  small  rivulet  called  the 
Dreel  burn,  over  which  is  a  bridge,  and  consists  of  a 
long  narrow  street,  on  the  road  from  the  East  Neuck  of 
Fife  to  Kirkcaldy  and  Burntisland,  extending  along 
the  margin  of  the  Frith.  The  trade  appears  to  have 
been  formerly  very  considerable  ;  a  custom-house  was 
erected  herein  1710,  and  in  1827,  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
port  was  extended  to  those  of  St.  Andrew's,  Crail, 
Pittenweem,  St.  Monan's,  and  Elie.  The  amount  of 
duties  once  averaged  £1500  yearly;  ship-building  was 


A  N  ST 


AN  ST 


carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent,  but,  after  gradually 
declining  for  several  years,  it  was  at  length  entirely  dis- 
continued. The  chief  manufacture  now  pursued  is  that 
of  leather;  barrels  are  made  for  the  package  of  herrings 
taken  off  the  coast,  and  more  than  40,000  barrels  of 
them  are  annually  sent  from  this  port,  properly  cured, 
for  exportation.  The  trade  at  present  consists  princi- 
pally in  the  fisheries,  in  the  exportation  of  grain  and 
other  agricultural  produce  of  the  surrounding  district, 
and  in  the  importation  of  various  articles  of  merchan- 
dise for  the  supply  of  the  neighbourhood.  There  is 
also  a  large  brewery.  The  number  of  vessels  belonging 
to  the  port  is  nine,  of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  964  tons; 
two  packets  ply  regularly  between  this  place  and  Leith, 
and  the  Edinburgh  and  Dundee  steamers  touch  at  the 
port.  The  harbour  is  safe,  and  easy  of  access,  and  is 
protected  from  the  south-easterly  winds  by  a  natural 
breakwater,  and  an  extensive  and  commodious  quay  ; 
the  custom-house,  though  an  independent  establishment, 
has,  since  the  decline  of  the  trade,  communicated  with 
that  of  Kirkcaldy.  The  market  for  corn  and  other  pro- 
duce, is  held  on  Saturday. 

The  burgh  was  incorporated  by  charter  of  James  VI., 
under  which  the  government  was  vested  in  three  bailies, 
a  treasurer,  and  fifteen  councillors,  assisted  by  a  town- 
clerk  and  other  officers  ;  the  bailies  and  treasurer  are 
elected  by  the  council,  who  are  chosen  by  the  registered 
£10  electors,  under  the  provisions  of  the  Burgh  Reform 
act.  The  bailies  are  justices  of  the  peace  within  the 
royalty  of  the  burgh,  which  is  coextensive  with  the 
parish,  and  exercise  both  civil  and  criminal  jurisdiction; 
since  1S20,  however,  few  cases  have  been  tried  in  the 
civil  court,  and  in  the  criminal  court  only  twelve  cases, 
chiefly  petty  misdemeanours  :  the  town-clerk,  who  is 
appointed  by  the  magistrates  and  council,  during  plea- 
sure, is  assessor  in  the  bailies'  court.  By  act  of  the 
2nd  and  3rd  of  William  IV.,  the  burgh,  together  with 
those  of  Cupar,  St.  Andrew's,  Anstruther  Wester,  and 
others,  returns  one  member  to  the  imperial  parliament ; 
the  right  of  election  is  vested  in  the  resident  burgesses 
and  £10  householders,  and  the  bailies  are  the  return- 
ing officers.  The  town-hall  is  a  neat  building.  The 
parish  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  small  bay  in  the 
Frith,  and  comprises  about  9  acres  of  land,  formerly  in- 
cluded within  the  parish  of  Kilrenny,  from  which  they 
were  separated  in  the  year  1636.  The  rateable  annual 
value  is  £1115.  The  incumbency  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
St.  Andrew's  and  synod  of  Fife  ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £131.  15.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £25 
per  annum  ;  patron,  Sir  Wyndham  Carmichael  Anstru- 
ther, Bart.  The  church,  built  by  subscription,  in  1634, 
and  to  which  a  spire  was  added  about  ten  years  after, 
•was  repaired  in  1S34,  and  is  well  adapted  for  700  per- 
sons. There  are  places  of  worship  for  Baptists,  Inde- 
pendents, and  members  of  the  Free  Church  and  the 
United  Secession.  The  burgh  school  is  attended  by 
about  90  scholars  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £5.  6.  8., 
and  about  £65  from  fees,  with  a  house  rent-free.  There 
are  several  friendly  societies,  of  which  one,  called  the 
"  Sea  Box  Society",  established  in  161S,  and  incor- 
porated by  royal  charter,  in  1*84,  has  an  income  of 
£300,  for  the  benefit  of  decayed  ship-masters  and  sea- 
men belonging  to  the  port.  The  Rev.  Dr.  Chalmers, 
and  Professor  Tennant,  of  the  university  of  St.  Andrew's, 
are  natives  of  the  place. 
53 


Bttr°;h  Seal. 


ANSTRUTHER  WES- 
TER, a  royal  burgh,  and  pa- 
rish, in  the  district  of  St. 
Andrew's,  county  of  Fife  ; 
adjoining  AnstrutherEaster, 
and  containing  449  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  339  are  in  the 
burgh.  This  place,  of  which 
the  name  is  supposed  to  be, 
in  the  Celtic  language,  de- 
scriptive of  the  low  marshy 
ground  on  which  the  church 
was  built,  is  situated  on  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  about  six  miles  to  the  westward  of  Fife- 
ness.  The  people,  who,  during  the  wars  consequent  on 
the  attempt  to  establish  episcopacy,  were  zealously  de- 
voted to  the  Presbyterian  form  of  worship,  joined  the 
Covenanters  ;  and  many  of  them  fell  in  the  battle  of 
Kilsyth.  The  town  suffered  greatly  by  an  inundation 
of  the  sea,  in  1670,  which  greatly  injured  the  harbour, 
and  undermined  the  foundations  of  many  of  the  houses  : 
a  second  inundation,  which  took  place  towards  the  end 
of  that  century,  swept  away  the  houses  in  the  principal 
street,  and  destroyed  nearly  one-third  part  of  the  town. 
The  present  town  is  separated  from  Anstruther  Easter 
by  the  Dreel  burn,  over  which  a  bridge  was  erected,  at 
the  joint  expense  of  the  two  burghs,  in  1801  ;  it  has 
been  much  benefited  by  the  widening  of  the  principal 
street,  and  the  houses  in  that,  and  also  in  the  other 
streets,  have  been  considerably  improved  in  their  ap- 
pearance. The  streets  are  paved  and  macadamised,  and 
the  town  is  w:ell  lighted,  and  supplied  with  water.  The 
place  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh  by  charter  of 
James  VI.,  in  1587,  and  the  government  is  vested  in  a 
provost,  two  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  eleven  councillors, 
elected  annually,  the  old  council  choosing  the  new  coun- 
cil, and  the  latter  electing  the  provost,  bailies,  and  trea- 
surer. The  magistrates  hold  a  bailie  court ;  but  few 
cases  of  civil  actions  have  been  brought  before  it  for 
some  years ;  and  their  jurisdiction,  in  criminal  cases, 
seldom  extends  beyond  that  of  petty  offences,  in  which 
they  are  assisted  by  the  town-clerk,  who  acts  as  assessor. 
The  town-hall  is  a  commodious  building.  The  burgh  is 
associated  with  those  of  Pittenweem,  Anstruther  Easter, 
Kilrenny,  and  others,  in  returning  a  member  to  the 
imperial  parliament  ;  the  number  of  inhabitant  house- 
holders, of  the  yearly  rent  of  £10,  is  twenty-four,  of 
whom  twelve  are  burgesses. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  sea,  and 
is  about  two  miles  in  length,  and  of  irregular  form, 
comprising  not  more  than  600  acres,  of  which,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  acres  of  common  pasture,  the  whole 
is  arable.  The  soil,  near  the  sea,  is,  in  some  parts,  a 
rich  black  loam,  and  in  others  a  light  sand  mixed  with 
shells,  both  of  which,  though  of  no  great  depth,  are 
very  fertile ;  in  the  higher  grounds,  the  soil  is  of  lighter 
quality,  intermixed  with  tracts  of  deep  clay.  The  crops 
are  grain  of  all  kinds,  with  potatoes,  turnips,  and  other 
green  crops  ;  the  lands  are  chiefly  inclosed  with  stone 
dykes,  though  in  some  places  with  hedges  of  thorn. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £1998. 
Grangemuir,  the  seat  of  Lord  William  Douglas,  of  Du- 
nino,  a  handsome  and  spacious  mansion,  built  by  the  late 
Mr.  Bruce,  and  greatly  enlarged  by  the  present  proprie- 
tor,  is  pleasantly   situated   in   grounds  laid  out  with 


A  N  W  O 


A  P  PL 


much  taste.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  St.  Andrew's  and 
synod  of  Fife  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £142.  5.  6.,  of 
which  part  is  paid  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £22.  10.  per  annum  ;  patron,  Sir 
Wyndham  Carmichael  Anstruther.  The  church  is  a 
very  ancient  structure  situated  in  the  burgh,  near  the 
sea-shore.  The  parochial  school  is  well  conducted  ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  £4  per  annum, 
the  interest  of  a  bequest,  and  a  house  and  garden,  and 
the  school  fees  average  about  £75  per  annum.  There 
is  a  bursary  in  the  college  of  St.  Andrew's,  for  a  scholar 
from  this  parish,  endowed  by  the  late  William  Thomson, 
Esq.,  chief  magistrate  of  the  burgh. 

ANWOTH,  a  parish,  in  the  stewartry  of  Kirk- 
cudbright ;  containing,  with  part  of  the  burgh  of 
barony  of  Gatehouse,  S83  inhabitants.  This  parish  is 
bounded  on  the  south  by  Wigton  bay,  on  the  south-east 
by  the  bay  of  Fleet,  and  on  the  east  by  the  river  Fleet, 
which  separates  it  from  the  parish  of  Girthon.  It  is 
about  6|  miles  in  length,  and  1\  in  breadth,  comprising 
an  area  of  10,500  acres,  of  which  nearly  one-half  is 
arable,  and  the  remainder  meadow  and  pasture.  The 
surface,  near  the  sea-shore,  is  generally  flat,  and,  to- 
wards the  north,  rises  into  hills  of  various  elevation,  of 
which  the  highest,  Cairnharrah,  partly  in  this  parish, 
but  chiefly  in  that  of  Kirkmabreek,  is  1100  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  commands  an  extensive  view,  embracing 
the  Isle  of  Man,  part  of  Cumberland,  and  the  coast  of 
Ireland.  The  river  Fleet,  which  has  one  of  its  sources 
in  a  small  loch  of  that  name,  in  the  parish  of  Girthon, 
after  receiving  various  tributary  streams,  falls  into  the 
bay  of  Fleet,  from  which  it  is  navigable,  for  about  three 
miles,  to  Gatehouse  ;  salmon,  sea-trout,  and  flounders 
are  found  in  this  river,  but  not  in  any  great  quantity. 
The  soil  on  the  coast  is  dry  and  fertile,  and  in  other 
parts  thin  and  light,  but  has  been  much  improved  by 
the  use  of  lime,  which  is  brought  from  Cumberland,  at 
a  moderate  cost ;  marl,  also,  is  found  in  the  parish,  and 
a  great  abundance  of  shells  on  the  sea-shore,  which  are 
likewise  used  for  manure.  The  chief  crops  are  oats  and 
barley,  with  some  wheat,  and  potatoes,  of  which  large 
quantities  are  sent  to  the  ports  on  the  Clyde,  and  to 
Whitehaven  and  Liverpool ;  the  system  of  agriculture 
has  been  greatly  improved  ;  the  lands  have  been  well 
inclosed,  and  the  farm-houses  and  offices  are  generally 
substantially  built.  The  cattle  are  mostly  of  the  black 
native  breed,  and  the  sheep,  for  which  the  moorlands 
afford  good  pasture,  are  principally  of  the  black-faced 
kind  ;  considerable  numbers  of  both  are  reared  in  the 
parish,  and  sent  to  the  English  markets.  There  are 
some  large  tracts  of  ancient  wood  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  and  in  the  grounds  of  the  principal  landed  pro- 
prietors ;  and  the  plantations,  which  are  of  oak,  ash, 
birch,  and  fir,  are  also  extensive,  and  in  a  thriving  state. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3717-  The 
principal  mansions  are,  Cardoness,  which  has  been  re- 
built within  the  last  twenty  years  ;  and  Ardwall  and 
Rusco,  which  are  of  older  date.  The  road  from  Car- 
lisle to  Port-Patrick  passes  along  the  southern  border  of 
the  parish;  and  the  river  Fleet,  of  which  the  navigation 
has  been  greatly  facilitated  by  the  construction  of  a 
canal,  by  Mr.  Murray,  of  Broughton,  affords  facility  for 
coasting  vessels  bringing  supplies  of  coal,  lime,  and 
various  kinds  of  merchandise,  and  for  the  transport  of 
54 


cattle,  sheep,  and  agricultural  produce.  The  ecclesias- 
tical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  pres- 
bytery of  Kirkcudbright  and  synod  of  Galloway  ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £230.  15.  2§.,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £10  per  annum;  patron,  Sir  David 
Maxwell,  Bart.  The  church,  erected  in  1326,  at  a  cost 
of  nearly  £1200,  is  a  neat  structure,  with  a  tower  at  the 
west  end  surmounted  by  a  spire,  and  contains  400  sit- 
tings. There  is  a  small  place  of  worship  for  Burghers. 
The  parochial  school  is  well  attended;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the 
fees  average  £20  per  annum.  The  only  remains  of  an- 
tiquity are,  the  Tower  of  Rusco,  and  the  Castle  of  Cardo- 
ness, both  on  the  river  Fleet,  the  former  two  miles  above 
where  it  ceases  to  be  navigable,  and  the  latter  beauti- 
fully situated  near  its  mouth  ;  they  are  quadrilateral 
structures,  apparently  of  great  strength,  but  nothing  is 
known  of  their  origin  or  history.  On  the  summit  of  a 
hill  to  the  south-east  of  the  church,  are  the  remains  of 
a  vitrified  fort,  300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
defended,  where  most  easily  accessible,  by  a  double 
fosse ;  near  the  spot,  have  been  found  several  silver 
coins  of  Elizabeth,  and  one  of  Edward  VI. 

APPIN,  county  of  Argyll. — See  Lismore. 

APPLECROSS,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ross  and 
Cromarty,  IS  miles  (W.)  from  Lochcarron  ;  containing, 
with  the  island  of  Crohn,  and  part  of  Shieldag,  quoad 
sacra,  2861  inhabitants.  This  parish  was  originally 
called  Comaraich,  a  Gaelic  word  signifying  safety  or 
protection,  on  account  of  the  refuge  afforded  to  the 
oppressed  and  to  criminals,  by  a  religious  establishment 
that  existed  here  in  ancient  times.  The  present  name, 
which  is  of  comparatively  modern  date,  was  given  to  the 
place  by  the  proprietor  of  the  estate,  upon  its  erection 
into  a  parish,  at  which  time  five  apple-trees  were 
planted  cross-ways  in  his  garden.  The  parish,  which 
formed  part  of  that  of  Lochcarron  till  1726,  stretches 
along  the  shore  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  is  distributed 
into  the  three  large  portions  or  districts  of  Applecross, 
properly  so  called  ;  Lochs,  consisting  of  Torridon,  Shiel- 
dag, &c. ;  and  Kishorn.  It  is  of  irregular  form,  20 
miles  long,  and  as  many  in  breadth,  and  contains  about 
1800  acres  cultivated,  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  about 
400  under  wood,  and  400  or  500  waste,  besides  an 
immense  tract  of  pasture  in  a  natural  state.  The  surface, 
in  its  general  appearance,  is  hilly  and  rugged,  consisting 
of  rocky  elevations  covered  with  heather  and  wild  grass  ; 
the  climate,  though  not  unhealthy,  is  foggy,  and  very 
rainy.  The  soil  is  light  and  gravelly,  and  produces  good 
crops  of  oats,  barley,  and  potatoes  ;  the  two  former  are 
grown  to  the  amount,  in  value,  of  £3000  annually,  and 
potatoes  and  turnips  yield  about  £1500;  the  farms  are 
of  small  extent,  averaging  in  rent  not  more  than  £6  or 
£7  each.  The  inclosures  are  very  few,  and  though 
some  advances  have  been  made  in  the  draining  and 
improving  of  land,  the  agricultural  state  is  low,  the 
parish  being  compelled  frequently  to  import  grain  and 
potatoes  for  home  consumption.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £248S.  The  rocks  consist  of  red 
sandstone,  gneiss,  and  quartz ;  at  Applecross  and 
Kishorn  are  found  large  quantities  of  limestone,  and  at 
the  latter  place  is  also  a  copper-mine,  which,  when 
worked  some  time  since,  produced  a  fine  rich  ore.  The 
only  mansion  of  note  is  on  the  estate  of  Applecross,  and 
is  a  large  ancient  building,  with  some  elegant  modern 


APPL 


APPL 


additions,  and  surrounded  by  about  30  acres  of  thriving 
plantation. 

At  Poldown,  Shieldag,  and  Torridon  are  convenient 
harbours,  to  which  belong  about  twenty-one  vessels  of 
from  20  to  50  tons'  burthen  each,  employed  in  the  fishing 
and  coasting  trade  :  most  of  the  population  are  in  some 
■way  engaged  in  the  herring-fishery,  which  in  certain 
seasons  is  very  profitable,  and  at  Torridon  and  Balgie 
are  salmon-fisheries  that  let  at  £15  or  £16.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Loch- 
carron  and  synod  of  Glenelg  ;  the  Crown  is  patron  ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £15S.  6.  5.,  partly  paid  from  the 
exchequer,  and  there  is  a  manse,  built  in  1796,  with  a 
glebe  valued  at  £19,  per  annum.  The  parochial  church, 
which  was  erected  in  1S17,  is  in  good  repair,  and  accom- 
modates 600  persons ;  and  at  Shieldag,  twelve  miles 
distant,  is  a  government  church,  built  in  1827-  There 
is  a  parochial  school,  the  master  of  which  has  a  salary 
of  £"27,  with  about  £8  fees,  and  teaches  the  classics, 
mathematics,  Gaelic,  and  the  ordinary  branches  of  edu- 
cation ;  and  four  other  schools  are  supported  by 
societies  for  promoting  education.  Many  fossils  have 
been  found,  but  their  nature  has  not  been  satisfactorily 
ascertained. 

APPLEGARTH  and  SIBBALDBIE,  a  united  parish, 
in  the  district  of  Annandale,  county  of  Dumfries, 
2  miles  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from  Lockerbie  ;  containing,  with 
the  chapelry  of  Dinwoodie,  S57  inhabitants.  The  term 
Applegarth  is  compounded  of  the  words  Apple  and 
Garth,  the  latter  of  which  signifies,  in  the  Celtic  lan- 
guage, an  "  inclosure,"  and  both  conjoined  are  inva- 
riably taken  for  an  "  apple  inclosure"  or  "  orchard." 
The  word  bie,  or  bye,  which  terminates  the  name  Sib- 
baldbie,  signifies,  in  the  Saxon,  a  "  dwelling-place,"  and 
is  thought  to  have  been  applied  to  the  district  thus 
denominated,  from  its  having  been  the  residence  of 
Sibbald.  The  annexation  of  Sibbaldbie  took  place  in 
1609;  and  the  chapelry  of  Dinwoodie,  which  some 
suppose  to  have  been  a  distinct  parish,  was  also  at- 
tached to  Applegarth,  and  is  said  to  have  belonged 
formerly  to  the  Knights  Templars,  who  had  large  pos- 
sessions in  Annandale.  Chalmers  states,  on  the  autho- 
rity of  the  Royal  Wardrobe  accounts,  that,  on  the  7th 
July,  1300,  Edward  I.,  who  was  then  at  Applegarth,  on 
his  way  to  the  siege  of  Caerlaverock,  made  an  oblation 
of  seven  shillings  at  St.  Nicholas'  altar,  in  the  parish 
church  here,  and  another  oblation  of  a  like  sum  at  the 
altar  of  St.  Thomas  a  Becket ;  and  a  large  chest  was 
found  some  years  ago,  not  very  far  from  the  manse, 
which  is  conjectured  to  have  been  part  of  the  baggage 
belonging  to  Edward,  who  remained  for  several  days  at 
Applegarth,  waiting  for  his  equipage.  An  ancient  thorn, 
called  the  "  Albie  Thorn,"  is  still  standing  in  a  field, 
within  500  yards  of  the  church,  said  to  have  been 
planted  on  the  spot  where  Bell  of  Albie  fell,  while  in 
pursuit  of  the  Maxwells,  after  the  battle  of  Dryfe- 
sands. 

The  parish  contains  11,700  imperial  acres,  situated  in 
that  part  of  the  shire  formerly  called  the  stewartry  of 
Annandale.  The  surface  is  diversified  by  two  principal 
ranges  of  hills,  one  on  each  side  of  the  river  Dryfe, 
which  runs  from  the  north-east  in  a  southerly  direction  ; 
the  highest  part  of  the  western  range,  Dinwoodie  hill, 
rises  736  feet  above  the  sea,  and  Adder  Law,  in 
the  eastern  range,  attains  an  elevation  of  63S  feet. 
55 


In  addition  to  the  Dryfe,  the  parish  is  washed,  on  its 
eastern  boundary,  by  the  Corrie  water,  and  on  its 
western,  by  the  river  Annan,  the  banks  of  which  streams 
are  in  many  parts  precipitous,  and  clothed  with  brush- 
wood and  plantations.  Among  the  trees,  comprising 
most  of  those  common  to  the  country,  the  larch,  spruce, 
and  Scotch  fir,  after  flourishing  for  twelve  or  fourteen 
years,  exhibit  symptoms  of  decay,  and  gradually  pine 
away,  in  consequence  of  their  roots  having  come  into 
contact  with  the  sandstone  rock  and  gravel.  In  the 
rivers  and  their  several  tributary  streams,  eels,  pike, 
trout,  and  many  smaller  fish  are  numerous  :  and  in  the 
Annan,  salmon  is  plentiful,  and  of  good  quality.  The 
soil  is  in  general  fertile  ;  the  land  lying  between  the 
banks  of  the  Annan  and  Dryfe  is  alluvial,  and  inter- 
spersed with  strata  of  river  gravel ;  the  land  on  the 
declivity  of  the  western  range,  in  some  parts,  is  sharp 
and  good,  but  in  many  places  has  a  wet  and  tilly  sub- 
stratum, and  on  the  higher  portions  is  a  black  moory 
earth.  Of  the  entire  area,  7392  acres  are  either  culti- 
vated, or  occasionally  in  tillage ;  3777  are  waste,  or  in 
permanent  pasture,  including  60  or  70  acres  of  moss; 
331  are  under  wood,  and  about  ISO  are  incurably 
barren.  Among  the  white  crops,  wheat,  which  was 
formerly  unknown  in  the  parish,  is  now  an  important 
article  ;  all  kinds  of  green  crops,  also,  are  raised,  of  good 
quality,  including  considerable  quantities  of  turnips  and 
potatoes.  The  most  approved  system  of  husbandry  is 
followed,  though  it  has  not  been  carried  to  the  same 
perfection  as  in  some  other  districts,  chiefly  from  a 
deficiency  in  manuring  and  draining  the  soil.  Consider- 
able improvements  have  been  made,  during  the  pre- 
sent century,  in  the  erection  of  neat  and  convenient- 
cottages  ;  and  the  breed  of  black-cattle  has  been  particu- 
larly attended  to,  and  now,  in  symmetry  and  general 
excellence,  rivals  the  best  specimens  of  the  best  districts. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £6850.  The 
prevailing  rock  is  the  old  red  sandstone,  and  the  western 
ridge  is  interspersed  with  large  nodules  of  white  and 
greenish  whinstone,  while,  on  the  summit,  there  is  grsy- 
wacke  slate  and  greenstone,  diversified  by  numerous 
veins  of  quartz. 

The  only  seats  of  note  are,  Jardine  Hall,  built  in  1814, 
and  the  mansion  of  Hook,  built  in  1S06,  the  former  of 
which  is  of  red  sandstone,  cut  from  a  quarry  on  Corn- 
cockle muir,  in  Lochmaben  parish  ;  the  latter  is  chiefly  of 
greenstone,  from  the  bed  of  the  river  Dryfe.  The  inha- 
hitants  are  altogether  of  the  agricultural  class,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  tradesmen  residing  chiefly  in  the  vil- 
lage of  Milnhouse.  The  mail-road  from  Glasgow  to 
London,  by  Carlisle,  runs  through  the  parish :  there 
are  two  good  bridges  over  the  Annan,  one  of  which  is 
on  the  Glasgow  line,  and  the  other  on  the  road  lead- 
ing from  Dumfries,  across  Annandale,  to  Eskdale.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of 
Lochmaben  and  synod  of  Dumfries  ;  patrons,  Sir  Wil- 
liam Jardine,  Bart.,  and  John  James  Hope  Johnstone, 
Esq.,  of  Annandale.  There  is  a  manse,  built  in  1805, 
with  a  glebe  of  6|  acres  of  good  land,  and  the  stipend 
is  £250.  The  church,  a  plain  substantial  structure, 
built  in  1760,  is  inconveniently  situated  at  a  distance  of 
five  or  six  miles  from  some  of  the  population ;  it  has 
been  at  different  times  repaired  and  enlarged,  and  ac- 
commodates 3S0  persons  with  sittings.  There  are  two 
parochial  schools,  in  which  Greek,  Latin,  French,  and 


A  R  B  L 


A  R  B  R 


geometry  are  taught,  with  all  the  ordinary  branches  of 
education  ;  the  master  of  one  school  has  a  house  and 
garden,  with  a  salary  of  £34.  5.,  and  about  £25  fees  ; 
the  other  master  has  the  same  accommodation,  with  a 
salary  of  £17.  2.  6.,  and  £15  fees.  Roman  stations  are 
visible  in  several  places,  and  a  Roman  road  traverses 
the  parish,  in  a  northerly  direction.  Part  of  the  ruins 
still  remains  of  the  church  of  Sibbaldbie  ;  and  a  very 
ancient  ash  stands  in  Applegarth  churchyard,  measuring 
14  feet  in  girth,  at  a  yard  from  the  ground,  and  called 
the  "  Gorget  Tree,"  from  having  been  used  as  a  pillory. 
The  iron  staples  which  held  the  collar  or  gorget  were 
visible  not  many  years  ago. 

APPLETREE-HALL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Wilton,  Hawick  district  of  the  county  of  Roxburgh, 
2§  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Hawick  ■  containing  75  inha- 
bitants. It  is  situated  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  the 
parish,  and  to  the  east  of  the  road  from  Hawick  to 
Selkirk. 

ARBEADIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Banchory  - 
Ternan,  county  of  Kincardine  ;  containing  301  inha- 
bitants. This  village,  which  is  of  very  recent  origin, 
takes  its  name  from  that  of  the  estate  on  which  it  has 
been  built,  and  appears  to  have  been  erected  to  supply 
the  want  of  the  ancient  village  of  Banchory.  A  post- 
office  has  been  established ;  there  are  three  good  inns, 
and,  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  a  branch  of  the  Bank  of 
Scotland,  and  a  small  lock-up  house  for  the  temporary 
confinement  of  petty  offenders.  The  Independents  have 
a  place  of  worship. 

ARBIRLOT,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar,  2| 
miles  (\V.)  from  Arbroath  ;  containing,  with  the  village 
of  Bonnington,  1045  inhabitants,  of  whom  77  are  in  the 
village  of  Arbirlot.  This  place  appears  to  have  derived 
its  name,  a  contraction  of  Aber-Elliot,  from  the  river 
Elliot,  which  runs  into  the  sea  a  little  below  its  eastern 
boundary.  The  earliest  account  connected  with  its 
history,  states,  that  a  member  of  the  ancient  family  of 
Ochterlony  originally  owned  the  castle  of  Kelly,  in  the 
parish  ;  and  this  family  was  succeeded  by  the  Irvines, 
who  also  held  the  castle,  which  afterwards  came  into 
the  possession  of  the  Maule  family,  now  sole  pro- 
prietors of  Arbirlot.  The  parish  is  about  4  miles  long, 
and  3  broad,  and  contains  5050  acres,  of  which  4200 
are  cultivated,  or  occasionally  under  tillage,  S00  waste, 
and  50  wood ;  it  is  intersected  by  the  Arbroath  and 
Dundee  railway,  and  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the 
sea.  It  has  an  extent  of  coast  nearly  three  miles  long, 
where  the  land  is  level  and  sandy,  and  much  frequented 
in  the  summer  for  the  purpose  of  bathing  ;  in  the  inte- 
rior, also,  much  of  the  surface  is  low  and  flat,  and  the 
rest  gradually  rises  to  a  gentle  acclivity.  There  is  no 
part  deserving  of  particular  notice,  except  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Kelly,  which  is  situated 
on  the  bank  of  the  Elliot,  and  is  in  good  preservation, 
and  surrounded  by  scenery  that  is  highly  picturesque. 
The  Elliot,  a  stream  of  inconsiderable  magnitude,  but  of 
great  beauty,  rises  in  Ditty  Moss,  in  the  parish  of  Car- 
mylie,  and,  pursuing  a  south-easterly  course  for  a  few 
miles,  through  a  deep  and  romantic  glen,  falls  into  the 
sea  in  the  east  part  of  the  parish ;  it  has  numerous 
mills  erected  upon  it,  and  formerly  abounded  in  salmon, 
but  since  the  construction  of  some  dam-dykes  near  it, 
these  fish  have  forsaken  it,  although  it  is  still  frequented 
by  good  trout. 
56 


The  soil  in  the  lower  parts,  consists  chiefly  of  a  light 
productive  loam,  but,  on  the  higher  portions,  is  damp 
and  mossy,  and  in  some  places  mixed  with  clay  ;  the 
subsoil  is  a  gravelly  clay  :  on  the  northern  boundary  is 
an  extensive  muir.  The  average  annual  produce  yields 
£15,000,  chiefly  derived  from  crops  of  oats,  barley,  hay, 
and  potatoes  ;  the  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£6395.  The  only  mansion-house  is  the  seat  of  Kelly, 
situated  in  the  vicinity  of  the  old  castle.  A  small  fair  is 
held  once  a  year.  Near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  at 
Wormy-hills,  is  an  establishment  for  bleaching  yarns, 
and  on  the  same  stream  are  three  meal-mills,  and  a 
flax- mill.  There  is  also  a  meal-mill  on  a  small  river 
which  forms  the  boundary  line  between  this  parish  and 
Panbride.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the 
presbytery  of  Arbroath  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearnsj 
the  patronage  is  vested  in  the  Crown,  and  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £184.  4.  5.,  in  addition  to  which  he  has  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  of  the  annual  value  of  £6.  The 
church,  rebuilt  in  1S32,  is  an  elegant  structure,  situated 
on  the  bank  of  the  Elliot,  and  containing  about  640  sit- 
tings. A  place  of  worship  has  been  erected  by  mem- 
bers of  the  Free  Church.  There  is  a  parochial  school, 
the  master  of  which  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.,  and  £20 
fees,  &c,  with  a  house  and  garden;  and  a  savings' 
bank,  managed  by  the  minister,  and  a  parochial  library, 
consisting  of  above  500  volumes,  kept  in  the  manse,  are 
also  supported. 

ARBROATH,  or  Aber- 
brothock,  a  thriving  sea- 
port, burgh,  and  parish,  in 
the  county  of  Forfar,  15 
miles  (S.  E.  by  E.)  from 
Forfar,  and  58  (N.  N.  E.) 
from  Edinburgh;  containing,  ^h, 
with  the  late  quoad  sacra  ^» 
parish  of  Abbey,  and  part  of 
that  of  Lady-Loan,  S707  in- 
habitants, of  whom  721S  are 
in  the  burgh.  This  place  de- 
rives its  name,  originally 
Aberbrothock,  of  which  its  present  appellation  is  a  con- 
traction, from  its  situation  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Brothock,  which  falls  into  the  North  Sea.  An  abbey 
was  founded  here  in  the  year  1 17S,  by  William  the 
Lion,  King  of  Scotland,  for  monks  of  the  Tyronensian 
order,  brought  from  the  abbey  of  Kelso,  and  was  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Thomas  of  Canterbury,  in  honour  of  the 
Archbishop  Thomas  a  Becket.  This  establishment  was 
amply  endowed  by  the  founder  and  his  successors,  and 
its  abbots  had  a  seat  in  parliament;  in  1320,  a  general 
assembly  of  the  Estates  of  Scotland  was  held  in  the 
abbey,  when  a  declaration  was  drawn  up,  in  strong  and 
emphatic  terms,  asserting  the  independence  of  the 
Scottish  Church  of  the  Roman  see,  and  renouncing  all 
subjection  to  the  interference  of  the  pope.  In  1445,  a 
battle  took  place  here,  between  the  retainers  of  the 
families  of  Lindsay  and  Ogilvie,  which  originated  in  a 
contest  concerning  the  election  of  a  bailie  of  the  burgh, 
and  in  which  the  chieftains  on  both  sides  were  killed, 
and  nearly  500  of  their  dependents.  In  the  16th  cen- 
tury, the  abbey  was  nearly  destroyed  by  Ochterlony,  a 
chieftain  in  the  neighbourhood,  who,  having  quarrelled 
with  the  monks,  set  fire  to  the  buildings  ;  and  at  the 
Dissolution,  which  followed  a  few  years  afterwards,  this 


Seal  and  Arms. 


A  II  B  11 


A  It  B  R 


once  extensive  pile  was  little  more  than  a  wide  heap 
of  scattered  ruins.  The  revenues  were  returned  at 
£2483.  5.  in  money,  with  ahout  340  chalders  of  grain, 
and  the  patronage  of  thirty-four  parish  churches;  and 
the  site  and  lands  belonging  to  the  abbey,  were,  after 
its  dissolution,  erected  into  a  temporal  lordship,  in 
favour  of  Claude  Hamilton,  third  son  of  the  Duke  of 
Chatelherault,  who  was  created  Lord  Arbroath,  which 
still  forms  one  of  the  inferior  titles  of  the  Duke  of 
Hamilton.  In  1781 ,  the  town  was  menaced  by  the 
commander  of  a  French  privateer,  who  approached  the 
port,  and  commenced  a  brisk  firing  for  a  short  time, 
which  was  succeeded  by  his  sending  a  flag  of  truce,  de- 
manding from  the  provost  and  inhabitants  the  payment 
of  £30,000,  as  a  ransom  for  the  town,  which,  on  their 
refusal,  he  threatened  to  set  on  fire.  The  authorities  of 
the  place  obtained,  by  parley,  a  short  interval,  in  which 
having  armed  several  of  the  inhabitants,  they  set  him  at 
defiance,  and  he  left  the  coast,  making  prizes  of  some 
small  craft  which  he  met  with  in  his  retreat.  A  battery 
was  soon  afterwards  erected,  in  front  of  the  harbour,  to 
protect  the  town  from  similar  insult,  and  was  kept  up 
till  the  termination  of  the  last  war,  when  it  was  dis- 
mantled. 

The  town  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Bro- 
thock,  and  consists    principally    of   one    spacious    and 
handsome  street,   intersected  by  several  of  inferior  ap- 
pearance, extending  into  the  parish  of  St.  Vigean's,  and 
forming  suburbs.    Many  of  the  private  houses  are  elegant 
and  substantial,  and  all  of  the  houses  are  built  of  the 
stone  obtained  from  the  valuable  quarries  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood ;    the   villas   in  the  suburbs   are  embellished 
with  gardens  and  shrubberies,  which  produce  a  pleasing 
effect,  and  the  general  aspect  of  the  town  is  prepossess- 
ing.    The  streets  are  lighted  with  gas  made  by  a  joint- 
stock   company  ;    but   the  supply  of  water  is  rather  in- 
different, and  is  partly  derived  from  private  wells.     There 
is  a  public  subscription  library,  supported  by  a  proprietary 
of  £5  shareholders,  in  which  is  a  collection  of  about  4000 
volumes  on   subjects  of  general  literature  ;   and  smaller 
libraries,    of   miscellaneous  and  theological   works,  are 
attached  to  the  quoad  sacra  churches.      A   mechanics' 
library,  now  containing  about  400  volumes,  was  establish- 
ed in  1S24,  and  connected  with   it  is  a  mechanics'  insti- 
tution,  or  school  of  arts,  for  which  an  appropriate  build- 
ing has  been  completed,  containing  a  reading-room  well 
supplied  with  periodicals  and  newspapers  ;   there  are  also 
three  masonic  lodges  and  a  gardener's  society.     The  prin- 
cipal manufactures   are,  the  spinning  of  yarn  from  flax 
and  tow,  the  weaving  of  canvass  and  sail-cloth,  brown  and 
bleached  linens,  the  tanning  of  leather,  the   making   of 
candles,  the  smelting  of  iron,  and  the  grinding  of  bones 
for  manure.     The    number  of  mills   for   spinning  yarn 
is  nineteen,    of  which  by  far  the  greater   part  are  in 
the     suburbs,     affording    employment,     at    present,    to 
nearly  3770.  and,  when  trade   is   prosperous,   to  more 
than    5000,   persons,   of   whom    about    one-fourth    are 
females.     The  trade  of  the  port  consists  chiefly  in  the 
exportation  of  the  manufactured  goods,   especially  sail- 
cloth,   of  which   nearly  7000  ells   were   exported   in    a 
late   year,  and  in  the  importation  of  bark,  flax,  hemp, 
hides,  oak,  and  fir  timber,  and  guano  for  manure,  with 
groceries  from  London,  and  numerous  articles  of  Baltic 
produce.     There  are  at  present  belonging  to  the  port  S9 
vessels,   of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  9100  tons;   and 
Vol.  I.— 57 


the  number  of  vessels  that  entered  inwards,  in  a  recent 
year,  was  599,  of  which  56  were  from  foreign  ports,  and 
543  employed  in  the  coasting  trade. 

The  harbour  appears  to  have  been  first  constructed 
in  1394,  by  the   inhabitants,  in    conjunction   with  the 
abbot,  who  contributed  the   greater  portion   of  the  ex- 
pense, in   consideration  of  a  certain  duty  to  be    paid 
annually  from  the  lands  of  the  burgh.     A  pier  of  wood 
was  erected  at  the  extremity  of  the  High-street,  which, 
being  found  ill-adapted   to   the  purpose,  was  abandoned 
in  1725,  and  the   harbour   removed  to  the  western  side 
of  the  river,  where  a  basin  faced   with  stone  was   con- 
structed, 124  yards   in  length,  and  SO  yards  in  breadth, 
and  a  substantial  pier  of  stone  built.     These  improve- 
ments, however,  at  length  became  insufficient,   and  in 
1839  an  act  of  parliament  was  obtained,  under  which  a 
spacious  new  tidal  harbour  has  been   completed  to  the 
south  and  east  of  the  old  one,  at  a  cost  of  £50,000.     A 
sea-wall  of  great  length  and  solidity  defends  the  harbour 
from  the  violence  of  the  waves  during  heavy  gales,  and 
at  the  western  extremity  of  this  bulwark  is  a  lighthouse. 
Between  the  wall  and  a  massive  breakwater  opposite  to 
it,  is  the  entrance  to  the  harbour.     The  port  was  formerly 
a. creek  to  the  harbour  of  Montrose  ;   but  it  has  been 
made  completely  independent,  and  has  now  a  collector  of 
customs,   a  comptroller,   and  other   officers   of  its  own, 
established  on  the  spot.     Connected  with  the  harbour  is 
a  patent-slip  for  repairing  vessels,  which  is  maintained  by 
the  harbour  commissioners.      At  a   distance  of  twelve 
miles  from  the  shore,  but  opposite  to  the  harbour,  is  the 
Bell  Rock  Lighthouse,  erected  under  an  act  of  parliament 
obtained   in  1806,  and  completed   in  1811;  it  is  built 
upon  a  rock  about  427  feet   in  length,   and  230  feet  in 
breadth,  at  low  water,  and  rising  to  an  average  height  of 
about  four  feet  from  the  sea.     The  lighthouse  is  of  cir- 
cular form  ;   the  two  lower  courses   of  masonry,    all  of 
which  are  dove-tailed,  are  sunk  into  the  rock  :   the  dia- 
meter,  at  the  base,  is  42  feet,  gradually  diminishing  to 
the  floor  of  the  light  room,  which  is  13  feet  in  diameter. 
From    the   foundation,  the    elevation    is    solid,    to    the 
entrance,  which  is  at  a  height  of  30  feet,  and  is  attained 
by  a  ladder  of  ropes  with  steps  of  wood  ;  the  walls  here 
are  7  feet  in  thickness,  and   gradually  decrease  to  one 
foot  at  the  lantern,  which  has   an  elevation  of  100  feet 
from  the  base,  and  is  15  feet  in  height,  and  of  octagonal 
form.     The   lantern   contains  a  light  of  Argand   burn- 
ers, with  powerful  reflectors,  revolving  round  its  axis  in 
six  minutes,   and  in   each   revolution   displaying,    alter- 
nately, a  bright  and  a  deep   red  light,  which,  in  clear 
weather,  may  be  plainly  seen   at  a  distance  of  eighteen 
miles.     Two  large  bells  connected  with  the  lighthouse, 
are   tolled  by  the   machinery  which   moves  the  lights, 
when  the  weather  is  foggy  ;   and  on   the  harbour  of  Ar- 
broath, a  building  has  been  erected  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  keepers,  three  of  whom  are  constantly  at.  the 
lighthouse  for   six  weeks,    when  they  are  relieved,   and 
spend  two  weeks  on  shore.     Attached  to  these  buildings, 
is   a  signal  tower,  50  feet  high,   by  means   of  which  the 
keepers  on   the  shore  communicate  with  those   on   the 
rock  ;   the  whole  expense  of  the  lighthouse,  which  is  of 
such  important  benefit  to  the  navigation  of  this  part  of  the 
coast,  did  not  exceed  £60,000.     The  Arbroath  and  Forfar 
railway,  constructed  by  a  company  empowered  to  raise  a 
capital  of  £  150,000  by  shares,  and  a  loan  of  £35,000,  was 
completed,  and  opened  to  the  public,  in  January,  1S39; 

I 


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A  R  B  R 


the  line  is  15  miles  in  length,  worked  by  locomotive- 
engines,  and  the  principal  station  is  a  handsome  building 
with  every  requisite  accommodation.  The  Dundee  and 
Arbroath  railway,  along  the  coast,  has  also  its  terminal 
station  here,  and  is  connected  with  the  Arbroath  and 
Forfar  railroad.  The  market  is  on  Saturday,  and  is 
supplied  with  grain  of  all  kinds ;  and  fairs  are  held  on 
the  last  Saturday  in  January,  the  first  Saturday  after 
Whit-Monday,  the  18th  of  July,  and  the  first  Saturday 
after  Martinmas. 

The  town  was  made  a  royal  burgh  by  a  charter  of 
James  VI.,  in  1599,  reciting  that  the  original  charters, 
with  the  title-deeds  of  the  town,  and  other  documents, 
were  taken  from  the  abbey,  where  they  had  been  depo- 
sited for  security,  and  destroyed  by  George,  Bishop  of 
Moray;  the  inhabitants  appear  to  have  been  before 
incorporated  by  the  abbots,  who  reserved  to  themselves 
the  nomination  of  one  of  the  bailies  by  whom  the  town 
was  governed.  By  King  James's  confirmatory  charter 
of  all  pi-evious  rights  and  privileges,  the  burgh  and  har- 
bour were  made  free,  and  the  lands  called  the  common 
muir  were  conveyed  to  the  burgesses,  with  power  to 
levy  anchorage  customs  and  shore  dues,  and  to  apply 
the  produce  to  the  maintenance  of  the  harbour ;  the 
amount  of  harbour  dues  is  £3000  a  year,  but  the  cor- 
poration do  not  now  receive  them.  Under  this  charter, 
the  government  is  vested  in  a  provost,  two  bailies,  a 
dean  of  guild,  and  treasurer,  with  twelve  councillors, 
all  chosen  subject  to  the  provisions  of  the  late  Municipal 
Reform  act.  There  are  seven  incorporated  trades,  the 
whole  of  which  have  the  exclusive  right  of  carrying  on 
their  trades  within  the  burgh,  with  the  exception  of  the 
weavers ;  the  dean  of  guild  also  grants  temporary 
license  to  trade.  The  magistrates  possess  all  the  juris- 
diction appendant  to  royal  burghs,  and  hold  courts  of 
pleas  in.  civil  actions  weekly,  to  an  unlimited  extent, 
and  also  criminal  courts,  in  which,  though,  by  the 
charter,  they  have  full  jurisdiction  in  capital  cases,  they 
confine  themselves  to  the  trial  of  petty  offences,  the 
town-clerk  acting  as  assessor.  The  magistrates  have 
also,  by  the  charter,  power  to  replevy  any  action  what- 
ever against  an  inhabitant  of  the  burgh,  from  all  judges 
in  the  kingdom,  upon  giving  security  for  administering 
justice  within  the  term  of  law.  The  dean  of  guild  like- 
wise holds  a  court  for  enforcing  compliance  with  the 
acts  of  parliament  respecting  weights  and  measures,  in 
which  he  is  assisted  by  a  clerk  and  procurator-fiscal. 
Previously  to  the  union  of  the  two  kingdoms,  the  burgh 
sent  a  member  to  the  Scottish  parliament,  but  after  that 
event  was  associated  with  Montrose,  Brechin,  Bervie,  and 
Aberdeen,  in  returning  a  representative  to  the  imperial 
parliament ;  and  the  only  change  in  this  respect,  under 
the  act  of  the  3rd  and  4th  of  William  IV.,  is  the  substi- 
tution of  Forfar  in  lieu  of  Aberdeen,  and  the  extension 
of  the  elective  franchise  to  £10  householders.  The 
provost  is  the  returning  officer.  The  guildhall  is  a  neat 
plain  edifice,  adapted  for  the  business  of  the  guild  cor- 
poration ;  and  the  trades'-hall,  erected  in  1814,  is  a 
handsome  building.  The  town-house,  erected  in  1806, 
is  a  spacious  and  elegant  structure,  comprising  a  great 
hall,  and  offices  for  the  town-clerk  and  others,  with 
apartments  for  the  meeting  of  the  council,  and  for  hold- 
ing courts.  At  a  short  distance  behind  the  town-house, 
stands  the  new  gaol  for  the  burgh,  with  the  gaoler's 
house,  and  a  police-office,  the  whole  forming  a  neat 
58 


building ;  the  cells  are  constructed  on  the  best  modern 
principles,  and  are  well  arranged  for  the  health  and 
classification  of  the  prisoners.  In  the  court-room  for 
the  police  department,  which  is  commodious  though 
small,  the  magistrates  of  the  town  sit  regularly  every 
week,  on  Monday,  for  the  summary  disposal  of  petty 
delinquencies. 

The  parish  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  of 
very  irregular  form,  varying  from  little  more  than  200 
yards  t'o  a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  breadth,  and  comprises 
820  acres  of  arable,  and  twenty-six  of  common  land  in 
pasture  ;  the  surface  is  comparatively  level,  rising  by  a 
gradual  ascent  from  the  shore,  till,  at  the  opposite  ex- 
tremity, it  attains  an  elevation  of  150  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  only  river  is  the  Brothock,  which  rises  in  the 
adjoining  parish  of  St.  Vigean's,  and,  after  a  course  of 
five  or  six  miles,  flows  through  this  parish,  for  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  and  falls  into  the  sea  at  the  harbour. 
A  small  stream  which,  in  its  course,  gives  motion  to 
several  spinning-mills,  forms  a  tributary  to  the  Bro- 
thock ;  but,  unless  when  swollen  with  incessant,  rains, 
it  is  comparatively  a  shallow  stream.  The  scenery  is 
pleasingly  varied ;  and  the  town,  as  seen  from  the 
sea,  is  an  interesting  feature,  seated  in  the  curve  of  a 
range  of  small  hills,  which  rise  behind  it,  and  command 
an  extensive  prospect  of  the  Lothians,  the  eastern  por- 
tion of  the  coast  of  Fife,  and  the  estuaries  of  the  Forth 
and  Tay,  towards  the  south  ;  the  view  terminating,  to- 
wards the  north,  in  the  range  of  the  Grampian  hills. 
The  soil,  near  the  town,  is  a  rich  black  loam ;  in  the 
higher  lands,  thin,  resting  upon  a  retentive  clay,  which 
renders  it  scarcely  susceptible  of  improvement ;  and 
along  the  coast,  light  and  sandy.  The  chief  crops 
are,  grain  of  all  kinds,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  guano  is 
used  for  manure,  and  the  farms  are,  in  general,  well 
arranged  and  skilfully  managed.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £17,314.  A  fishery  is  carried  on 
with  considerable  success  ;  cod,  haddock,  and  flounders 
are  taken  in  abundance  off  the  coast,  with  herrings  and 
mackerel,  in  their  season ;  lobsters,  crabs,  and  various 
kinds  of  shell-fish,  are  found  in  great  plenty,  and  at- 
tempts have  been  made  to  procure  a  supply  of  salmon, 
by  the  putting  down  of  stake-nets,  but  hitherto  without 
much  success. 

The  parish  is  the  seat  of  the  presbytery  of  Arbroath, 
within  the  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns ;  patron,  the 
Crown.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £219.  12.  6.,  with 
glebe  valued  at  £4.  8.  11.;  there  is  also  an  assistant 
minister,  with  a  stipend  of  £75,  appointed  by  the  Kirk 
Session.  The  church,  which  was  enlarged  in  1764,  and 
to  which  an  elegant  spire  was  added  in  1831,  at  an 
expense  of  £1300,  raised  mostly  by  subscription,  is  a 
plain  cruciform  structure,  situated  nearly  in  the  centre 
of  the  town,  and  adapted  for  1390  persons.  A  chapel 
of  ease  was  erected  in  1797,  on  the  grounds  of  the 
ancient  abbey,  and  is  thence  called  the  Abbey  chapel ; 
it  is  a  neat  edifice  for  a  congregation  of  about  12S0,  and 
a  quoad  sacra  parish  has  been  annexed  to  it,  comprising 
a  population  of  22S9  ;  income  of  the  minister,  about 
£100.  Another  chapel  of  ease  was  erected  in  1829,  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  inhabitants  of  that  portion  of 
the  suburbs  within  the  parish  of  St.  Vigean's ;  it  is  a 
neat  structure,  and  contains  1080  sittings,  from  the 
rents  of  which  the  minister  derives  an  income  of  £150 ; 
a  district  named  Inverbrothock  has  been  attached  to  it, 


A  R  B  R 


A  R  B  U 


containing  5195  persons.  The  church  of  Lady-Loan  is 
also  of  recent  date,  and  in  the  town.  There  are  places 
of  worship  for  Episcopalians,  Free  Church  congrega- 
tions, members  of  the  United  Secession,  members  of  the 
Relief  Synod,  Original  Seceders,  and  Independents ; 
and  for  smaller  congregations  of  Baptists,  Bereans, 
Glassites,  and  Wesleyans.  The  burgh  school,  and  also 
the  parochial  school,  have  merged  into  an  institution  of 
more  recent  establishment,  called  the  Academy,  for 
which  a  handsome  and  appropriate  building  was  erected 
in  1821,  at  an  expense  of  £1600,  raised  chiefly  by  sub- 
scription. This  institution  is  under  the  controul  of  a 
rector,  appointed  by  the  corporation,  and  three  masters, 
chosen  by  the  directors;  to  each  of  these,  a  distinct 
department  is  assigned,  and  there  are  consequently  four 
separate  schools.  The  classical  and  mathematical  school 
is  under  the  superintendence  of  the  rector,  whose  salary 
is  £34  per  annum,  with  an  allowance  of  £6.  10.  for 
house-rent,  which,  augmented  by  the  proceeds  of  a  be- 
quest by  Mr.  Colvill,  for  the  gratuitous  instruction  of 
five  children,  amounts  to  £60  per  annum  ;  and  the 
commercial,  English,  and  general  schools  are  under  the 
three  masters,  who  have  a  salary  of  £25  each,  exclusive 
of  the  school  fees.  All  these  salaries  are  paid  from  the 
various  funds  constituting  the  endowment  of  the  schools. 
The  Sabbath-evening  School  Society,  which  has  been 
established  for  more  than  twenty-five  years,  compre- 
hends the  whole  of  the  town  and  suburbs  ;  and  connected 
with  the  schools  under  its  superintendence,  is  a  library 
of  more  than  1100  volumes,  containing  many  standard 
and  valuable  works,  in  addition  to  such  as  are  requisite 
for  the  children  attending  them.  Mr.  Carmichael,  in 
1733,  bequeathed  £600,  and  some  rent-charges,  for  the 
benefit  of  seven  widows  of  ship-masters,  producing,  at 
present,  about  £130  per  annum  ;  and  Mr.  John  Colvill, 
late  town-clerk,  in  1811,  left  £10  per  annum  to  the 
minister  of  the  Episcopal  chapel,  £10  per  annum  to  the 
poor  of  the  parish,  and  a  sum  for  the  assistance  of 
twenty  householders,  which  now  produces  to  each 
£3.  10.  annually. 

The  chief  relics  of  antiquity  are  the  remains  of  the 
abbey,  which  occupied  an  area  of  1150  feet  in  length, 
and  about  "00  in  wridth,  inclosed  by  a  stone  wall  nearly 
24  feet  in  height ;  at  the  north-west  angle,  is  a  tower 
24  feet  square,  and  70  feet  high,  which  is  still  entire, 
and  at  the  south-west  angle  was  another  of  smaller 
dimensions,  which,  becoming  ruinous,  was  taken  down. 
The  principal  entrance  was  through  a  stately  gateway 
tower  on  the  north  side,  defended  by  a  portcullis  and 
draw-bridge  ;  and  at  the  south-east  angle,  was  a  postern 
of  inferior  character,  called  the  Darngate.  On  the 
north  side  of  the  inclosure,  was  the  abbey  church,  of 
which  only  the  south  wall,  with  the  east  and  west  gables, 
and  a  portion  of  the  two  western  towers,  are  remaining. 
The  church  is  said  to  have  been  270  feet  in  length,  and 
130  in  breadth  across  the  transepts  ;  the  nave,  of  which 
the  length  was  148  feet,  was  nearly  70  feet  in  height, 
but  none  of  the  columns  that  supported  the  roof  are 
standing,  though  their  bases  have  been  laid  open  during 
the  recent  operations  for  restoring  the  ruins  under  the 
direction  of  the  crown.  The  choir  appears  to  have  been 
more  than  75  feet  long ;  but  little  of  the  original  cha- 
racter of  this  once  proud  pile  can  be  discovered.  The 
western  entrance  is  tolerably  entire,  and  there  seems 
to  have  been  a  circular  window  above  the  doorway;  but 
59 


the  portions  of  the  towers  by  which  it  was  flanked,  are 
so  dilapidated  that  scarcely  any  indications  of  their 
original  style  of  architecture  remain.  Adjoining  the 
south  transept,  are  the  remains  of  a  building  supposed  to 
have  been  the  chapter-house,  containing  a  vaulted  apart- 
ment ;  the  cloisters  have  disappeared,  and  the  remains 
of  the  abbot's  palace  have  been  converted  into  a  private 
dwelling-house.  In  1815,  the  ruins  of  the  abbey  were 
so  far  repaired  as  to  secure  them  from  absolute  demo- 
lition ;  on  the  removal  of  the  accumulated  rubbish  for 
this  purpose,  the  pavement  of  the  church  was  partially 
restored  to  view,  and  a  diligent  search  was  made,  to 
discover  the  tomb  of  its  royal  founder,  who  was  buried 
under  the  first  step  of  the  flight  leading  to  the  high 
altar,  but  only  the  lid  of  an  ancient  stone  coffin,  sculp- 
tured with  the  figure  of  a  man,  in  alto-relievo,  much 
mutilated,  was  found.  Some  scattered  bones,  indeed, 
have  been  collected,  and  placed  in  a  box,  which  have  been 
sometimes  displayed  as  those  of  the  king  :  but  there  is 
no  foundation  for  the  opinion,  and  though  the  fact  of 
that  monarch  having  been  interred  in  the  abbey,  is 
generally  accredited,  yet  every  search  for  his  tomb  has 
been  in  vain.  Cardinal  Beaton,  at  that  time  also  arch- 
bishop of  St.  Andrew's,  was  the  last  abbot  of  Aber- 
brothock.  The  place  gives  the  inferior  title  of  Baron  to 
the  ducal  family  of  Hamilton. 

ARBUTHNOTT,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Kin- 
cardine, adjoining  the  town  of  Bervie,  and  containing 
1015  inhabitants.  The  name  of  this  place  has  under- 
gone many  changes  in  its  pronunciation  and  spelling ; 
but,  from  documents  in  the  possession  of  the  Arbuth- 
nott  family,  it  appears  that,  previously  to  the  12th  cen- 
tury, it  was  called  Aberbothenothe,  which  form,  about 
the  year  1335,  had  been  changed  to  Aberbuthnot,  and, 
in  1443,  to  the  mode  it  now  retains.  The  original  term 
signifies  "  the  confluence  of  the  water  below  the  Baron's 
house,"  and  is  descriptive  of  the  site  of  the  ancient 
castle  and  of  the  present  mansion-house,  upon  the 
narrow  point  of  a  projection  overlooking  the  water  of 
Bervie,  which  stream  is  joined  by  a  rapid  rivulet,  for- 
merly of  considerable  breadth,  about  100  yards  distant 
from  the  mansion.  The  parish,  in  the  early  history  of 
which  the  Arbuthnotts  have  held  the  most  conspicuous 
place,  contains  9423  acres,  of  which  6200  are  in  tillage, 
250  plantations,  and  2223  uncultivated.  It  is  inter- 
sected by  the  road  from  Stonehaven  to  Brechin,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Forthy,  which  sepa- 
rates it  from  Glenbervie  ;  and  on  the  south  and  west,  by 
the  water  of  Bervie,  dividing  it  from  the  parishes  of  Ber- 
vie, Fordoun,  and  Lawrencekirk.  The  surface,  which  is 
altogether  irregular,  being  much  diversified  by  hill  and 
dale,  rises  on  every  side  from  the  valley  of  the  Bervie 
water,  the  windings  of  which,  between  steep  and  richly- 
wooded  banks,  present,  in  many  parts,  interesting  and 
beautiful  scenery ;  the  highest  land  is  Bruxiehill,  which 
has  an  elevation  of  about  650  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
only  stream  worthy  of  notice  is  the  Bervie,  which,  in 
summer,  is  small,  and  slow  in  its  course,  flowing  at  the 
rate  of  about  a  mile  per  hour;  hut,  in  the  rainy  seasons, 
it  rises  rapidly,  the  flood  being  considerably  augmented 
through  the  medium  of  the  agricultural  drains ;  and 
embankments,  to  some  extent,  have  been  found  neces- 
sary, to  secure  the  neighbouring  lands  against  the  havoc 
consequent  upon  its  overflowing. 

The  soil,  towards  the  southern  quarter,  is  a  strong 

12 


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A  II  D  C 


clay,  with  a  cold  retentive  subsoil,  and  in  the  direction 
of  the  northern  boundary,  light  and  dry ;  there  is  also 
some  rough  wet  pasture  and  moor,  but  this  kind  of  land 
has  been  greatly  ameliorated  and  recovered  by  recent 
drainage  :  the  chief  crops  are,  grain  of  different  kinds, 
potatoes,  turnips,  and  beet-root.  The  parish  is  alto- 
gether agricultural,  and  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  is 
carried  on  with  great  spirit. ;  the  five  and  seven  years' 
rotation  of  crops  are  each  followed,  but  the  latter  is 
here  thought  to  succeed  the  best;  and  bone-dust,  as 
manure,  has  been  applied  with  advantage  on  light  soils, 
where  the  turnips  are  eaten  off  by  the  sheep.  The  wood 
planted  consists  of  Scotch  fir,  larch,  spruce,  cbesnut, 
poplar,  hazel,  and  almost  every  species  known  in  the 
country ;  and  above  twenty  different  kinds  of  oak, 
chiefly  American,  have  been  introduced  into  the  nursery, 
by  Lord  Arbuthnott,  with  a  view  to  plantation.  Im- 
provements have  been  vigorously  and  successfully  car- 
ried on,  chiefly  consisting  of  an  extensive  and  efficient 
drainage  of  the  lands,  the  cultivation  of  much  barren 
soil,  and  the  construction  of  embankments  along  the 
course  of  the  Bervie,  for  the  protection  of  the  fertile 
haughs  through  which  it  runs.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £6592.  The  rocks  are  mostly  coarse 
sandstone,  trap,  and  what  in  the  country  is  called 
scurdy;  blocks  of  gneiss  and  granite  are  sometimes  seen; 
on  the  north  bank  of  the  Bervie,  pebbles  beautifully 
varied  have  been  found  imbedded  in  trap  ;  and  calca- 
reous spar,  heavy  spar,  and  veins  of  manganese  also 
exist.  In  the  deepest  part  of  a  small  peat-bog  called 
the  "  Hog's  Hole,"  the  skeletons  of  two  red  deer  were 
recently  found,  the  antlers  of  whose  horns  were  seven 
and  eight  in  number,  and  some  of  them  measuring 
eighteen  inches  in  length.  Arbuthnott  House,  the  seat 
of  the  ancient  and  noble  family  of  Arbuthnott,  is  beau- 
tifully situated  on  the  Bervie,  almost  concealed  by 
thriving  plantations;  it  has.  been  greatly  improved  by 
the  present  owner  ;  the  grounds  are  laid  out  with  much 
taste,  and  the  mansion  is  approached  by  a  fine  avenue 
of  beech-trees,  upwards  of  two  centuries  old.  In  the 
library  of  his  lordship  are,  the  missal  used  in  the  paro- 
chial church  in  former  times,  and  the  psalter  and  office 
belonging  to  a  chapel  connected  with  the  church,  and 
dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary;  the  penmanship  is  ex- 
ceedingly beautiful,  and  many  parts  are  splendidly  illu- 
minated. The  castle  of  Allardyce,  also  on  the  bank  of 
the  river,  and  which  has  been  recently  repaired,  is  the 
property  of  the  ancient  family  of  Allardyce ;  and  the 
house  of  Kair  is  a  modern  mansion,  of  neat  and  elegant 
appearance. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  regulated  by  the  pres- 
bytery of  Fordoun  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ; 
the  patronage  belongs  to  Viscount  Arbuthnott,  and  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £225,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
of  the  annual  value  of  £9.  The  church,  which,  though 
much  altered  and  enlarged,  is  probably  four  centuries 
old,  and  was,  in  former  times,  dedicated  to  St.  Ternan, 
is  situated  near  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  about  three 
miles  distant  from  the  furthest  extremity  of  the  parish. 
An  aisle,  of  finely-hewn  ashlar,  and  elegantly  constructed, 
was  added  to  it,  on  the  south-east,  in  1505,  by  Sir 
Robert  Arbuthnott,  who  also  repaired  and  improved  the 
west  gable,  on  which  was  placed  a  round  tower;  and 
this  aisle,  which  is  now  the  burial-place  of  the  family, 
contains  an  old  full-length  statue,  of  stone,  of  Hugh 
60 


de  Arbuthnott.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  the  master 
of  which  has  the  maximum  salary,  with  house  and 
garden,  and  about  £10  fees  ;  and  a  savings'  bank,  esta- 
blished in  June,  1822,  is  in  a  prosperous  condition. 
The  celebrated  and  learned  Alexander  Arbuthnott,  first 
Protestant  principal  of  King's  College,  Aberdeen,  was  a 
native  of  the  parish,  and  some  time  its  minister,  to 
which  office  he  was  appointed  in  1567  ;  and  the  well- 
known  Dr.  Arbuthnott,  physician  to  Queen  Anne,  and 
one  of  the  triumvirate  with  Pope  and  Swift,  was  born 
here  in  1667.  The  place  gives  the  title  of  Viscount  to 
the  familv  of  Arbuthnott. 

ARCHIESTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Knock- 
ando,  county  of  Elgin;  containing  174  inhabitants. 
This  is  the  only  village  in  the  parish,  and  is  of  modern 
origin,  having  been  commenced  about  1760,  by  Sir 
Archibald  Grant,  the  greatgrandfather  of  Sir  James 
Grant,  of  Moneymusk,  the  present  baronet.  It  is  built 
on  the  moor  of  Ballintomb,  and  consists  of  a  double  row 
of  houses,  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  hav- 
ing a  square  in  the  centre,  of  about  half  an  acre,  and 
some  by-lanes.  The  village  suffered  severely  in  17S3, 
from  an  accidental  fire,  but  it  has  latterly  recovered  from 
this  calamity,  and  several  new  houses  have  been  erected 
very  recently.  In  a  preaching  station,  which  accom- 
modates about  200  persons,  divine  service  is  performed 
once  a  month,  by  the  minister  of  the  parochial  church  ; 
and  a  few  dissenters  belonging  to  the  Associate  Synod, 
also  occasionally  assemble  here.  There  are  schools 
likewise,  which  open  and  close  with  prayer. 

ARDCHATTAN,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Lorn, 
county  of  Argyll,  S  miles  (E.  N.  E.)  from  Oban;  con- 
taining 2421  inhabitants,  of  whom  960  are  in  the  quoad 
sacra  parish  of  Muckairn.  This  place  is  supposed  to 
have  derived  its  name  from  Catan,  who  accompanied  St. 
Columba  to  Scotland,  about  the  year  563  ;  and  from  its 
mountainous  aspect,  of  which  the  term  Ardchattan  is 
also  descriptive,  signifying  "  the  hill"  or  "  promontory 
of  Catan."  It  obtained,  for  some  time,  the  appellation 
of  Bal  Mhoadan,  or  "  the  residence  of  Moadan,"  in 
honour  of  whom  a  church  was  erected  in  the  vicinity, 
which  afterwards  became  the  church  of  the  parish  o. 
Kilmodan  ;  and  that  portion  of  the  parish  which  is 
comprehended  between  the  river  Awe  and  Loch  Etive, 
still  retains  the  name  of  Benderloch,  descriptive  of  a 
mountainous  district  between  two  arms  of  the  sea.  The 
parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  and  loch 
of  Creran  ;  on  the  south  and  east,  by  Loch  Etive,  and 
the  river  and  loch  of  Awe  ;  and  on  the  west  by  Loch 
Linnhe ;  and,  exclusively  of  Muckairn,  is  about  40 
miles  in  length,  and  10  miles  in  average  breadth.  The 
surface  is  generally  mountainous,  but  diversified  with 
several  glens  and  valleys  of  considerable  extent,  some 
richly  embellished  with  wood,  and  displaying  much 
romantic  scenery ;  the  level  lands  are  intersected  with 
numerous  streams,  and  the  hills  of  more  moderate 
height  are  crowned  with  plantations.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  the  valley  of  Glenure  and  a  few  other  spots,  the 
only  arable  lands  are  towards  the  north  and  east,  beyond 
which  little  cultivation  is  found  ;  lofty  mountains,  in 
various  directions,  rise  so  abruptly  from  the  sides  of  the 
lakes,  as  to  leave  little  land  that  can  be  subjected  to  the 
plough. 

Of  these  mountains,  the  principal  is  Ben-Cruachan, 
the  highest  in  the  county,   having  an  elevation  of  3669 


A  R  D  C 


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feet  above  the  sea,  and  rising  from  a  base  of  more  than 
twenty  miles  in  circumference ;  the  acclivity,  towards 
the  vale  of  Glencoe,  is  precipitously  steep,  but  from  the 
south,  behind  Inverawe,  the  ascent  is  more  gradual,  ter- 
minating in  two  conical  summits  commanding  a  most 
unbounded  prospect.  Ben-Cochail,  to  the  north  of  it, 
though  little  inferior  in  height,  appears  much  diminished 
by  comparison  ;  and  Ben-Starive,  still  further  up  the 
lake,  rises  from  abase  of  large  extent,  to  an  elevation  of 
2500  feet.  The  acclivities  of  the  latter,  of  barren  aspect, 
are  deeply  furrowed  ;  and  in  the  channels  of  the  streams 
which  descend  from  it,  are  found  beautiful  crystals, 
little  inferior  to  the  cairngorms  of  the  Grampians.  Ben- 
Nan-Aighean,  or  the  "  mountain  of  the  heifers,"  to  the 
south  of  Ben-Starive,  rises  to  a  great  height,  terminat- 
ing in  a  peak  of  granite  ;  for  about,  half  way  up  the  ac- 
clivities it  affords  tolerable  pasture,  and  is  thence 
rugged  and  barren  to  its  summit  ;  rock  crystals  are 
found  near  its  base,  and  in  the  beds  of  its  numerous 
streams.  Ben-Chaorach,  or  the  "mountain  of  the 
sheep,"  near  Ben-Starive,  is  of  inferior  height,  but 
affords  good  pasturage.  Ben-Ketlan,  to  the  north  of  it, 
is  of  greater  elevation,  and  presents  a  finer  outline, 
bounded  on  the  one  side  of  its  base  by  the  Alt-Ketlan 
stream,  and  by  the  Ait-Chaorach  on  the  other  ;  it  is  the 
most  fertile  of  the  mountains.  Two  most  conspicuous 
mountains  called  Buachail-Etive,  or  the  "  keepers  of  the 
Etive,"  and  situated  near  the  termination  of  the  lake  of 
that  name,  are  distinguished  by  the  names  Buacha'U-Mor 
and  Buachail-Beg,  from  the  respective  extent  of  their 
bases,  though  neither  of  them  has  an  elevation  of  less 
than  3000  feet.  Ben-Veedan,  called  also  Ben-Nambian, 
or  the  "  mountain  of  the  deer-skins,"  from  the  number 
of  deer  which  are  killed  there,  is  separated  from  Bua- 
chail-Beg by  the  mountain-pass  of  Larig-Aoilt,  a  stu- 
pendous range  scarcely  inferior,  in  elevation,  to  Ben- 
Cruachan,  and  which  opens  into  the  vale  of  Glencoe. 
Ben-Treelahan,  on  the  west  side  of  Loch  Etive,  which 
washes  its  base  for  nearly  five  miles,  and  Ben-Starive, 
on  the  opposite  side,  greatly  contract  the  breadth  of  the 
lake,  and,  by  their  rugged  aspect,  spread  over  it  a 
romantic  gloom  hardly  surpassed  in  mountain  scenery. 
In  the  north-east  of  the  parish,  also,  are  other  moun- 
tains, of  which  the  principal  are,  Ben-Aulay,  the  highest 
of  the  range;  Ben-Scoullard,  Ben-Vreck,  Ben-Molurgan, 
and  Ben-Vean. 

Of  the  numerous  glens  interspersed  between  the 
mountains,  is  Glen-Noe,  about  four  miles  in  length,  and 
one  mile  in  breadth,  inclosed  on  the  north  side  by  Ben- 
Cruachan,  and  on  the  south  by  Ben-Cochail ;  it  is 
clothed  with  rich  verdure,  and  watered  throughout  by  a 
stream,  of  which  the  banks,  as  it  approaches  the  sea, 
are  finely  wooded.  A  house  has  been  built  near  the 
opening,  for  the  residence  of  the  farmer  who  rents  it, 
than  which  a  more  delightful  summer  retreat  can 
scarcely  be  imagined.  Glen-Kinglas  is  about  nine  miles 
in  length,  and  nearly  two  in  breadth,  and  watered  by 
the  river  to  which  it  gives  name ;  the  north  side  is 
rocky  and  barren,  but  the  south  affords  excellent  pas- 
ture. It  formerly  abounded  with  timber,  which  was 
felled  for  charcoal,  by  an  iron-smelting  company,  about 
a  century  since  ;  but,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  alders 
on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  some  brushwood  of  little 
value,  it  is  now  destitute  of  wood.  Glen-Ketlan,  in- 
closed on  one  side  by  the  mountain  of  that  name,  is 
61 


about  two  miles  in  length,  and  watered  by  the  river 
Etive,  which  enters  it,  about  three  miles  from  the  head 
of  Loch  Etive.  Glen-Etive  commences  at  the  head  of  the 
lake  of  that  name,  and  is  more  than  sixteen  miles  in 
length  ;  it  was  formerly  a  royal  forest,  of  which  the 
hereditary  keeper  claims  exemption  from  certain  pay- 
ments. One  portion  of  the  glen, with  a  contiguous  tract 
in  the  parish  of  Glenorchy,  has  been  stocked  with  red 
deer,  by  the  Marquess  of  Breadalbane,  and  another  por- 
tion of  it  has  been  appropriated  by  Mr.  Campbell,  of 
Monzie,  to  the  same  purpose.  The  whole  tract  is 
marked  throughout  by  features  of  sublimity  and  gran- 
deur, though  stripped  of  the  majestic  timber  with  which 
it  was  anciently  embellished.  Glen-Vre,  or  the  "  glen 
of  yew-trees,"  opens  from  the  river  Creran,  and  ex- 
pands to  the  south  and  east,  for  about  three  miles; 
near  the  river  are  the  dilapidated  remains  of  the  ancient 
mansion  of  the  family  of  Glenure,  and  adjacent  is  the 
farm  of  Barnamuch,  which  has  been  always  famed  for 
the  richness  of  its  pastures.  The  remote  extremity  of 
the  glen  is  marked  with  features  of  rugged  grandeur. 
Glen-Dindal,  or  Glen-Dow,  about  seven  miles  to  the 
west  of  Glenure,  is  three  miles  in  length,  and,  in  the 
lower  part,  luxuriantly  wooded ;  it  is  frequented  by 
numbers  of  fallow  deer,  originally  introduced  about  the 
middle  of  the  last  century.  Glen-Salloch,  the  most 
elevated  of  the  glens,  is  situated  between  Loch  Etive 
and  Loch  Creran,  and  extends  from  south  to  north,  for 
about  six  miles  ;  it  comprehends  much  variety  of  sce- 
nery, and  the  views  from  any  point  commanding  either 
of  the  lakes,  are  romantically  picturesque. 

The  principal  lakes  are,  Loch  Etive,  and  Loch  Creran  ; 
the  former  branches  from  the  Linnhe  loch,  near  Dun- 
staffnage  Castle,  and  extends  eastward  to  Bunawe,  after 
which,  taking  a  northern  direction  among  the  mountains, 
it  terminates  at  Kinloch  Etive.  It  is  about  twenty-two 
miles  in  length,  varying  from  less  than  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  to  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  in  breadth,  and  is 
from  20  to  100  fathoms  in  depth.  The  bay  affords  safe 
anchorage  to  vessels  not  exceeding  100  tons  ;  and  at. 
Connel  Ferry,  near  the  western  extremity,  the  tide  rises 
to  a  height  of  14  feet,  forming  in  the  narrow  channel, 
which  is  not  more  than  200  yards  in  width,  and  ob- 
structed by  a  ledge  of  rock,  a  foaming  and  apparently 
terrific  rush  of  water,  which  the  skill  of  the  boatmen 
has  rendered  available,  to  facilitate  the  passage.  There 
is  another  ferry  across  the  lake  at  Bunawe,  opposite  to 
which  is  the  small  island  of  Elan-Duirnish,  inhabited 
only  by  the  family  of  the  ferryman,  and  connected  with 
the  mainland,  on  the  opposite  shore,  by  a  stone  cause- 
way, along  which  passes  a  road  which  afterwards  di- 
verges to  Inverary  and  Glenorchy.  Loch  Creran  issues 
from  the  Linnhe  loch,  near  the  island  of  Griska,  "and 
extends  in  a  north-easterly  direction,  for  about  twelve 
miles,  the  breadth,  on  an  average,  being  a  mile  and  a 
half.  It  is  about  15  fathoms  in  depth,  and  the  spring 
tides  rise  from  15  to  16  feet;  the  bay,  having  a  clayey 
bottom,  affords  good  anchorage,  and  there  is  a  ferry 
across  the  loch  at  Shean,  in  the  narrowest  part.  It  lias 
several  barren  and  uninhabited  islets  ;  and  the  island  of 
Griska,  which  is  well  wooded,  contains  a  considerable 
portion  of  pasture  and  arable  land,  forming  a  very  com- 
pact farm. 

Among  the  chief  rivers  is  the  Awe,  which,  issuing 
from  the  loch  of  that  name,  and  flowing  between  richly- 


ARDC 


ARDC 


wooded  banks,  after  a  course  of  about  four  miles,  falls 
into  Loch  Etive,  at  Bunawe.  The  Etive,  which  has  its 
source  near  Kings-house,  in  the  parish,  flows  in  a 
westerly  and  south-westerly  direction,  and,  gradually 
expanding  in  its  progress,  after  a  course  of  nearly  six- 
teen miles,  falls  into  Loch  Etive,  near  its  head.  The 
Kinglas  has  a  course  of  about  twelve  miles  to  the  south- 
west, flowing  through  a  channel  of  rock  and  granite  ;  its 
waters  are  remarkably  transparent,  and  salmon  are 
found  in  numbers.  The  Liver,  which  rises  to  the  south 
of  the  Kinglas,  flows  for  about  six  miles  in  a  westerly 
direction,  and  falls  into  Loch  Etive,  at  Inverliver.  The 
Noe,  which  waters  the  glen  of  that  name,  has  a  course 
of  four  miles  between  rugged  mountains,  and,  near  its 
confluence  with  Loch  Etive,  forms  a  romantic  cascade. 
The  Creran,  which  has  its  source  near  Ben-Aulay,  flows 
for  nearly  twelve  miles,  westerly,  and,  after  passing- 
through  the  inland  lake  of  Fasnacloich,  forms  a  channel 
navigable  for  small  boats,  and  falls  into  the  sea  at  the 
head  of  Loch  Creran.  The  Ure  has  a  course  of  about 
seven  miles  in  a  northerly  direction,  and,  passing  to  the 
west  of  Glenure  House,  falls  into  the  river  Creran.  The 
Tended  has  a  westerly  course  of  about  six  miles,  through 
the  glen  of  that  name,  and  forms  several  interesting 
cascades.  The  Bide,  after  a  course  of  little  more  than 
three  miles,  and  the  Dergan,  which  rises  in  the  heights 
of  Glen-Salloch,  both  fall  into  Loch  Creran  ;  and  the 
Esragan-More,  and  the  Esragan-Beg,  separated  by  the 
mountain  of  Ben-Vean,  after  a  course  of  about  five  miles, 
fall  into  Loch  Etive.  The  rivers  generally,  in  their 
course,  form  numerous  cascades,  of  which  many,  espe- 
cially those  of  the  mountainous  districts,  are  incompa- 
rably beautiful. 

Though  generally  a  pastoral  district,  there  is  still  a 
considerable  portion  of  arable  land,  estimated  at  about 
1700  acres  ;  the  soil  is  chiefly  a  light  loam,  requiring 
much  manure,  but  producing  good  crops  of  oats,  bear, 
potatoes,  and  turnips.  The  farm-houses,  with  very  few 
exceptions,  are  of  an  inferior  order,  thatched  with  straw, 
and  ill  adapted  to  the  purpose.  Great  numbers  of  cat- 
tle and  sheep  are  fed  in  the  pastures,  and  considerable 
attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  stock;  the  cattle  are 
of  the  Highland  black  breed,  and  on  the  dairy-farms, 
the  cows  are  of  the  Ayrshire  breed.  The  sheep,  which 
were  originally  of  the  small  white-faced  kind,  have  been 
almost  entirely  superseded  by  the  black-faced,  and  a  few 
of  the  Cheviot  breed  have  been  recently  introduced ; 
the  number  of  sheep  reared  annually  is  estimated  at 
32,000.  About  2700  acres  are  woodland  and  planta- 
tions ;  the  coppices  are  chiefly  oak,  ash,  birch,  and 
mountain-ash ;  and  the  plantations  consist  of  ash, 
beech,  elm,  sycamore,  larch,  and  Scottish  and  spruce 
firs,  all  of  which  are  in  a  thriving  state.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  Ardchattan  and  Muckairn  is  £10,987. 
Lead-ore  has  been  discovered  on  the  farm  of  Drimvuick, 
but  not  wrought ;  large  boulders  of  granite  are  found  in 
abundance,  and  on  the  upper  shore  of  Loch  Etive,  a 
quarry  has  been  opened  by  the  Marquess  of  Breadal- 
bane,  from  which  are  raised  blocks  of  large  size,  and  of 
very  superior  quality.  The  principal  mansions  in  the 
parish  are,  Lochnell  House,  originally  built  by  Sir  Dun- 
can Campbell,  and  improved,  at  an  expense  of  £15,000, 
by  General  Campbell,  his  successor ;  Barcaldine  House, 
recently  enlarged,  and  beautifully  situated  in  a  richly- 
wooded  demesne  ;  Ardchattan  Priory,  a  portion  of  the 
62 


ancient  convent,  converted  into  a  private  residence ; 
Inverawe  House,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Awe,  and  surrounded  with  stately  timber ;  and  Drim- 
vuick House,  a  pleasant  residence.  There  is  a  post-office 
at  Bunawe,  about  four  miles  distant  from  the  church  j 
the  mail  from  Fort-William,  likewise,  passes  through  a 
portion  of  the  parish,  and  facility  of  communication  is 
afforded  by  good  roads.  A  fair  for  cattle  and  horses, 
which  is  also  a  statute-fair,  is  held  at  Shean  Ferry  twice 
in  the  year. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  presbytery  of  Lorn  and  synod  of 
Argyll ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £233.  3.  2.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £8  per  annum ;  patron, 
Archibald  Campbell,  Esq.,  of  Lochnell.  The  church, 
erected  in  1S36,  is  a  neat  structure,  situated  on  the 
north  shore  of  Loch  Etive,  and  containing  430  sittings. 
There  is  a  preaching  station  at  Inverghiusachaw,  in  Glen- 
Etive,  about  16  miles  distant  from  the  church,  where  a 
missionary  supported  by  the  Royal  Bounty  preaches 
once  in  three  weeks.  A  place  of  worship  in  connexion 
with  the  Free  Church  has  been  recently  built.  The 
parochial  school  is  attended  by  about  50  children  ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £29.  16.  7-,  including  the  pro- 
ceeds of  a  bequest  producing  £4.  3.  4.,  with  a  house 
and  garden  ;  and  the  school  fees  average  about  £11  per 
annum.  There  are  some  remains  of  Ardchattan  Priory, 
founded  in  1231,  by  Duncan  Mc  Coull,  the  supposed 
ancestor  of  the  lords  of  Lorn,  for  monks  of  the  Bene- 
dictine order ;  the  house  of  the  prior  has  been  con- 
verted into  a  residence,  by  Mr.  Campbell,  the  proprietor, 
and  there  are  traces  of  the  abbey  and  cloisters,  with 
numerous  monumental  relics.  Some  remains  also  ex- 
ist of  the  ancient  churches  of  Bal-Moadau  and  Kilcolm- 
kill.-  the  Castle  of  Barcaldine,  erected  in  the  15th  cen- 
tury, by  Sir  Duncan  Campbell,  on  a  neck  of  land 
between  Loch  Creran  and  the  bay  of  Ardmucknish,  is 
rapidly  falling  into  decay.  There  are  remains  of  Drui- 
dical  circles,  of  large  columns  of  granite,  and  smaller 
circles  of  upright  stones,  on  the  summits  of  which  are 
large  slabs  of  granite ;  also  stone  coffins,  in  some  of 
which  have  been  found  rude  urns,  containing  human 
bones  ;  and  numerous  tumuli,  in  one  of  which  was  an 
urn,  containing  calcined  bones,  and  an  arrow-head'  of 
flint.  Many  ancient  coins  have  been  likewise  discovered, 
including  several  silver  coins  of  the  reign  of  Edward  I., 
on  the  reverse  of  which  were  the  names,  London,  Cam- 
bridge, and  Oxford,  in  good  preservation.  The  site  of 
the  old  city  of  Beregonium,  supposed  to  have  been  the 
ancient  metropolis  of  Scotland,  and  concerning  which 
so  many  conflicting  accounts  have  been  written,  and  so 
many  fabulous  legends  propagated  by  tradition,  is  re- 
ferred to  an  eminence  between  the  ferries  of  Connel  and 
Shean,  called  Dun  Mac  Sniachan,  on  which  are  the 
remains  of  a  vitrified  fort.  The  Rev.  Colin  Campbell, 
an  eminent  mathematician  and  metaphysician,  was  mi- 
nister of  the  parish  in  1667. 

ARDCLACH,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Nairn,  12 
miles  (S.  S.  W.)  from  Forres;  containing  1177  inhabit- 
ants. This  place  derives  its  name  from  its  situation  in 
a  mountainous  and  rocky  district,  of  which  the  Gaelic 
words  are  faithfully  descriptive.  The  parish  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  the  parishes  of  Auldearn  and  Nairn, 
and  on  the  west  by  the  parish  of  Cawdor,  and  is  nearly 
16  miles  in  extreme  length,  and  12  miles  in  extreme 


ARDC 


ARDE 


breadth.  During  the  wars  of  the  Covenanters,  it  shared 
largely  in  the  hostilities  of  that  distracted  period  ;  after 
the  battle  of  Auldearn,  in  1645,  the  lands  here  of  Bro- 
die,  of  Lethen,  were  plundered  by  the  forces  of  the 
Marquess  of  Montrose,  and  in  1649  and  1653,  were 
again  desolated,  after  unsuccessful  assaults  of  Lethen 
Castle,  by  the  Marquess  of  Huntly,  and  the  troops 
under  the  Earl  of  Glencairn,  respectively.  The  whole 
number  of  acres  in  the  parish  is  about  40,000,  of  which 
nearly  4000  are  arable,  about  2800  woodland  and  plan- 
tations, and  the  remainder  hill-pasture,  moorland,  and 
waste.  The  surface  is  mountainous,  and  some  of  the 
hills  considerable,  of  which  that  called  the  Shaw  has  a 
height  of  S00  feet,  and  the  hill  of  Lethenbar  of  862  feet, 
above  the  level  of  the  sea  ;  the  lower  lands  are  watered 
by  numerous  springs  and  the  river  Findhorn,  which 
latter  rises  in  the  mountains  of  Inverness,  and  flows 
through  the  parish,  in  a  north-easterly  direction,  into 
the  Moray  Frith.  In  its  course,  it  receives  many  tri- 
butary streams  descending  from  the  higher  lands,  of 
which  the  principal  are,  the  burns  of  Torgarrow  and 
Altnarie,  which,  in  their  descent,  form  beautiful  cas- 
cades ;  the  burns  of  Drumlochan  and  Tomnarrach  ;  and 
the  burn  of  Lethen,  or  Muckle-Burn,  which  flows  for 
nearly  ten  miles  through  the  parish,  and  falls  into  the 
Findhorn  near  its  mouth.  The  system  of  agriculture 
has  been  greatly  improved,  under  the  liberal  encourage- 
ment given  to  his  tenants  by  Mr.  Brodie,  of  Lethen, 
and  the  rotation  plan  of  husbandry  is  generally  preva- 
lent ;  the  crops  are,  oats,  with  other  kinds  of  grain,  and 
various  green  crops.  The  soil,  in  the  lower  lands,  is 
tolerably  fertile,  and  has  been  benefited  by  the  use  of 
lime  ;  and  the  mountainous  districts  afford  pasture  for 
cattle  and  sheep,  of  which  the  former  are  chiefly  of 
small  size,  but  hardy  and  adapted  to  the  pastures,  and 
the  latter  have  been  much  improved  by  a  cross  with 
the  Lanarkshire  breed.  The  natural  wood  is  mostly 
Scotch  pine,  birch,  alder,  hazel,  mountain-ash,  and  pop- 
lar ;  and  the  plantations  are  principally  larch,  inter- 
spersed with  fir  ;  the  wood  of  Dulcie  forms  an  extensive 
forest  of  fir,  wholly  indigenous,  and  there  are  also  ample 
and  thriving  plantations  at  Glenfairness  and  Lethen. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2373.  The 
rocks  along  the  course  of  the  river  Findhorn,  are  mainly 
granite,  gneiss,  and  quartz ;  the  substratum  in  the 
western  portion  of  the  parish  is  the  old  red  sandstone, 
with  some  of  the  schistose  formation,  in  which  are 
found  impressions  of  plants,  occasionally  resting  on  a 
layer  of  conglomerate,  with  nodules  containing  imper- 
fect marine  fossils,  and  which,  when  burnt,  produce 
excellent  lime  for  manure.  The  moors  afford  black 
game  and  grouse,  partridges,  snipes,  woodcocks,  and 
other  birds ;  and  hares  and  rabbits  are  found  in  great 
number.  The  lake  on  the  lands  of  Lethen  called  Loch 
Belivat,  which  covers  an  area  of  27  acres,  abounds  with 
trout  of  three  distinct  species,  weighing,  on  the  average, 
about  two  pounds  each  ;  and  in  the  centre,  is  an  island, 
frequented  by  aquatic  fowl  of  every  kind.  Salmon  are 
taken  in  abundance,  in  the  river.  Coulmony  House,  the 
property  of  Mr.  Brodie,  is  a  handsome  mansion,  beau- 
tifully situated  on  the  river,  and  Glenfairness  House  is 
also  a  good  residence. 

The  ecclesiastical   affairs    of  the  parish,  which,   till 
1773,   was  united  to  Edenkillie,  in  the  presbytery  of 
Forres,  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery 
63 


of  Nairn  and  synod  of  Moray  ;  the  minister's  stipend, 
including  an  allowance  of  £8.  6.  8.  for  communion 
elements,  is  £248,  with  a  manse,  thoroughly  repaired 
in  1841,  and  a  glebe  of  7A  acres,  valued  at  £5  per 
annum  ;  patron,  Mr.  Brodie.  The  church,  situated 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  surrounded  with 
a  spacious  cemetery,  was  originally  built  in  1626,  and 
rebuilt  in  1762,  and  again  in  1839,  at  a  cost  of  £500  ; 
it  contains  6S6  sittings,  and  the  service  is  performed 
alternately  in  the  English  and  Gaelic  languages.  A 
place  of  worship  has  been  erected  in  connexion  with  the 
Free  Church.  The  parochial  school  affords  an  ample 
course  of  instruction ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£36.  7-  3.,  including  an  allowance  of  £2  for  a  garden, 
with  a  good  dwelling-house,  and  the  fees  average  from 
£10  to  £15  per  annum.  There  are  also,  a  female  school 
for  reading,  knitting,  and  sewing,  which  receives  £5  per 
annum  from  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian 
Knowledge ;  and  a  school  at  Fornighty,  of  which  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £15  from  the  society,  and  re- 
ceives £2  from  a  bequest  of  Mr.  Dunbar,  of  London. 
About  a  mile  below  the  bridge  of  Dulcie,  on  the  lands 
of  Glenfairness,  is  an  ancient  obelisk,  on  which  are 
rudely  sculptured  two  figures  in  the  Highland  costume, 
supposed  to  commemorate  the  fate  of  a  Celtic  princess 
who,  eloping  with  her  Danish  paramour,  was  pursued 
to  the  hill  of  Dunearn,  on  the  verge  of  the  river,  into 
which  they  precipitated  themselves,  and  perished  toge- 
ther. On  the  summit  of  the  hill  of  Lethenbar  is  a  very 
perfect  Druidical  circle ;  and  in  the  neighbourhood  are 
several  tumuli. 

ARDEN,  a  village,  in  that  part  of  the  parish  of  New 
Monkland  which  forms  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
Clarkston,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark; 
containing  646  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  about  four 
miles  east  of  the  town  of  Airdrie,  and  in  the  southern 
portion  of  the  parish. 

ARDERSIER,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Inver- 
ness; containing,  with  the  village  of  Campbelton,  and 
the  garrison  of  Fort-George,  1475  inhabitants,  of  whom 
716  reside  within  the  limits  of  the  village.  This  place, 
called,  in  ancient  documents,  Ardrosser,  is  supposed  to 
have  derived  its  name  from  a  bold  promontory,  towards 
the  western  shore,  which  rises  to  a  height  of  200  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  A  considerable  portion  of 
the  lands  formerly  belonged  to  the  diocese  of  Ross,  and, 
in  1574,  was  granted,  with  consent  of  the  dean  and  chap- 
ter, to  John  Campbell,  of  Calder,  ancestor  of  the  present 
proprietor,  Earl  Cawdor,  who  still  pays  to  the  crown  an 
annual  sum,  as  bishop's  rent.  The  Knights  Templars 
had  also  some  lands  in  the  parish,  over  which  they  had 
a  jurisdiction  of  regality;  and  the  last  preceptor,  Sir 
James  Sandilands,  obtained  from  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots, 
the  erection  of  his  estates  into  a  temporal  barony,  and, 
in  1563,  was  created  Lord  Torphichen.  The  parish, 
which  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  the  Moray 
Frith,  extends  for  about  four  miles  in  length,  from  north- 
west to  south-east,  and  is  two  miles  in  breadth,  com- 
prising 3250  acres,  of  which  1434  are  arable,  about  500 
in  plantations,  and  the  remainder,  meadow,  pasture,  and 
heath.  The  surface,  with  the  exception  of  the  high 
grounds  to  the  west  and  north,  is  generally  flat,  and, 
towards  the  coast,  low  and  sandy ;  the  soil,  in  some 
parts,  is  a  deep  black  mould,  in  others  of  lighter  quality, 
and  in  some  places  a  strong  clay,  alternated  with  shal- 


A  RDN 


A  R  D  N 


low  sand.  The  usual  crops  of  grain,  and  large  quan- 
tities of  potatoes,  are  raised ;  the  lands  have  been 
partly  inclosed,  and  the  modern  improvements  in 
husbandry  are  gradually  taking  place.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £1540.  A  salmon-fishery 
is  carried  on  to  a  moderate  extent,  on  the  coast,  there 
being  two  stations,  the  rents  of  which,  together,  amount 
to  £60  per  annum. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  the  presbytery  of  Nairn  and  synod  of  Moray  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £15S.  6.  /.,  of  which  part  is 
paid  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £25  per  annum  ;  patron,  Earl  Cawdor.  The 
church,  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  was 
built  in  1802,  and  is  a  neat  structure.  There  are 
places  of  worship  for  Old  Seceders  and  members  of  the 
Free  Church.  The  parochial  school  is  well  attended  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £36.  7-  lf-.>  with  a  house  and 
garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £20  per  annum.  On 
the  heath  near  the  borders  of  the  adjoining  parish  of 
Nairn,  is  an  obelisk  supposed  to  indicate  the  spot  where 
the  Danes  were  repulsed  ;  and  at  Achnuallan,  were  the 
remains  of  a  Druidical  circle,  near  which  a  horn,  filled 
with  silver  coins,  was  found  in  1S00  ;  but  those  remains 
have  been  removed  for  building  materials.  At  Dalyards, 
the  ruins  of  a  building  thought  to  have  belonged  to  the 
Knights  Templars,  have  disappeared  in  the  progress  of 
agriculture  ;  and  on  a  hill  behind  Campbelton,  is  a  cir- 
cular mount  120  yards  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and 
surrounded,  towards  the  summit,  by  a  rampart  of  clay 
and  earth  ;  it  was  called,  in  the  Gaelic,  Cromal,  now 
corrupted  into  "  Cromwell's  mount,"  and  has  been  partly 
destroyed,  like  many  other  fortlets.  A  Roman  sword, 
and  the  head  of  a  spear ;  and  some  axes  of  flint,  sup- 
posed to  be  of  Danish  origin,  have  been  found  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

ARDGOWER.— See  Ballichulish. 

ARDNAMURCHAN,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county 
of  Argyll,  and  partly  in  the  county  of  Inverness; 
comprising  the  quoad  sacra  districts  of  Aharacle  and 
Strontian,  and  containing  55S1  inhabitants.  The  present 
parish  of  Ardnamurchan,  previously  to  the  Reformation, 
was  distributed  into  three  separate  parishes,  compre- 
hending the  five  districts  of  Ardnamurchan,  Sunart, 
Moidart,  Arasaig,  and  South  Morir.  These  districts  still 
remain  as  distinct  portions,  and  from  the  first  the 
parish  takes  its  name,  signifying  "  the  promontory"  or 
"  heights  of  the  great  sea."  This  term  was  originally 
applied  with  great  propriety,  the  district  of  Ardnamur- 
chan being  nearly  a  peninsular  promontory,  thrusting 
itself  out  from  the  mainland  to  a  considerable  extent, 
into  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The  districts 
of  Ardnamurchan  and  Sunart  are  in  the  county  of 
Argyll,  and  the  other  three  in  Inverness-shire  ;  and  the 
whole  extent  is  supposed  to  comprise  200,000  Scotch 
acres,  of  which  S7,753  are  in  the  Argyllshire  portion. 
The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  Loch  Sunart, 
separating  it  from  that  of  Morven  ;  on  the  south-west, 
by  the  northern  end  of  the  Sound  of  Mull ;  on  the 
north,  by  Loch  Morir,  and  the  river  flowing  thence, 
which  separate  it  from  North  Morir,  in  the  parish  of 
Glenelg;  and  on  the  north-west  and  west,  by  that  part 
of  the  Atlantic  Ocean  which  reaches  to  the  opposite 
shores  of  Skye  and  the  Small  Isles.  The  coast,  which 
is  continuously,  and  remarkably,  indented  with  creeks 
64 


and  bays  forming  numerous  points  and  headlands,  is 
supposed  to  embrace  a  line  of  several  hundreds  of  miles, 
and  exhibits  a  bold  and  rocky  appearance.  It  displays, 
at  some  seasons,  the  foaming  cataracts  of  the  neigh- 
bouring waters  driven  landward  by  the  westerly  winds, 
and  occasionally  rendering  inaccessible  the  several 
creeks  and  landing-places.  The  lieadland  of  Ardnamur- 
chan, which  is  the  most  westerly  part  of  the  mainland 
of  Great  Britain,  and  the  most  prominent  on  the  line 
of  coast  between  Cape  Wrath  and  the  Mull  of  Cantyre, 
was  formerly  used  as  a  geographical  mark,  in  respect 
to  which  the  Western  Isles  were  denominated  north  or 
south.  A  creek  on  its  extreme  point,  the  picture  of 
dreariness  and  desolation,  marks  the  place  where  the 
remains  of  numbers  of  unfortunate  sailors  have  found 
a  grave,  their  barks  having  been  dashed  to  pieces  on 
the  adjoining  rocks;  indeed,  the  whole  coast  surround- 
ing the  district  of  Ardnamurchan,  is  a  series  of  inden- 
tations and  prominences.  Beyond  this,  the  southern 
part  of  the  parish,  the  line  of  coast  runs  along  the 
Moidart  district,  on  the  west  and  north,  and  then  forms 
the  western  limit  of  Arasaig  and  South  Morir,  jagged 
with  many  rocky  points  and  headlands,':  of  which  the 
point  of  Arasaig,  the  next  iu  importance  to  Ardnamur- 
chan, is  well  known  to  mariners,  and  is  visited  by 
steamers  plying  from  Glasgow  to  Skye  and  other  parts. 
The  coast  here  is  very  rugged,  but  not  abrupt  or  pre- 
cipitous ;  and  it  has  numerous  shelving  rocks,  extend- 
ing under  water  to  the  northern  boundary  of  the  parish. 
A  deep  and  wide  bay  is  formed  by  the  line  of  shore 
stretching  in  an  easterly  direction  from  the  point  of 
Ardnamurchan  to  the  isthmus  of  that  district,  then 
northward,  and  afterwards  round  to  the  west,  reaching 
to  the  point  of  Af  asaig ;  and  at  the  flexure  of  the  northern 
coast  of  Ardnamurchan  towards  Moidart,  is  Kintra  bay, 
with  its  fine  sands,  the  latter  measuring  about  two  square 
miles,  of  nearly  circular  form,  and  covered,  at  high 
water,  by  the  sea,  which  enters  by  a  small  inlet. 

The  principal  Harbours  along  the  coast  are,  the  bay 
of  Glenmore,  on  the  south  of  Ardnamurchan,  affording 
good  anchorage ;  that  of  Kilchoan,  a  small  harbour  on 
the  same  coast,  furnishing  the  chief  point  of  communi- 
cation with  Tobermory  ;  and,  on  the  north  coast  of  Ard- 
namurchan, at  Ardtoe,  a  small  bay,  where  inferior  craft 
may  find  a  safe  retreat.  At  the  island  of  Shona,  north 
of  Kintra  bay,  also,  and  in  the  opening  of  Loch  Moidart, 
are  several  creeks  with  good  anchorage,  the  resort  of 
boats  from  the  southern  highlands,  in  the  season  for  cod- 
fishing;  and  in  Loch  Sunart  are  the  harbour  of  Stron- 
tian, and  the  creek  of  Salin,  at  which  latter  a  pier  has 
been  built.  There  are  likewise  several  maritime  lochs  in 
the  parish,  which  are  of  considerable  extent  and  import- 
ance, and  form  a  distinct  feature  in  the  general  scenery 
of  the  coast.  Loch  Sunart  shoots  off  from  the  Sound  of 
Mull,  where  it  is  about  six  miles  in  breadth,  and,  in  its 
inland  course  of  about  twenty-five  miles,  runs,  with 
much  impetuosity,  through  the  channels  formed  by  the 
islands  of  Carna,  Resga,  and  Oransay,  six  or  seven  miles 
from  its  mouth,  and  then  lies  quietly,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  ebb  and  flow  of  the  tides,  between  lofty  rocks 
and  precipitous  banks  overgrown  with  wood.  Loch 
Moidart  is  about  four  miles  long,  from  east  to  west,  and 
communicates  with  the  open  sea  by  means  of  a  narrow 
channel  on  each  side  of  the  island  of  Shona  :  being 
surrounded   with  steep   lofty  mountains,   it  is  usually 


A  II  D  N 


ARDN 


unruffled,  and  its  scenery  embraces  all  the  striking  fea- 
tures of  a  highland  district.  The  remaining  salt-water 
lochs  are  those  of  Loch-nan-Uamh,  situated  between 
Moidart  and  Arasaig ;  Loch  Ainart,  a  branch  of  the 
former ;  and  Loch-na-Reaull,  just  north  of  Arasaig  point ; 
all  of  comparatively  small  extent.  In  different  parts  of 
the  coast  are  caves,  some  of  them  very  extensive,  but 
none  of  much  note,  except  one  at  Baradale,  in  Arasaig, 
a  damp,  rough,  dark  excavation,  where  Prince  Charles 
Stuart,  after  his  defeat  at  Culloden,  concealed  himself 
for  three  days. 

The  interior  of  the  parish,  consisting  of  a  sweep  of 
land  of  very  rugged  character,  is  crowded  with  the  fea- 
tures, variously  combined,  of  almost  every  description 
of  wild  and  romantic  scenery,  comprising  lofty  moun- 
tain ranges,  precipitous  rocky  elevations,  thickly-wooded 
hills,  dells,  and  ravines,  with  numberless  inland  lochs, 
and  several  rivers.  The  Ardnamurchan  portion  is  strongly 
marked  by  a  range  of  hills,  though  of  no  great  eleva- 
tion, running  from  the  western  point,  for  about  twenty- 
four  miles,  towards  the  east,  and  varying  from  four 
miles  and  a  half  to  seven  in  breadth.  Near  the  coast, 
are  many  farms  under  good  cultivation,  within  the  first 
ten  or  twelve  miles,  but  afterwards  the  pasture  becomes 
coarser.  Oak,  birch,  and  hazel  are  seen  covering  the 
rocks,  and  the  lower  hills  on  the  south,  to  Loch  Sunart ; 
while,  on  the  north,  the  district,  at  its  eastern  extremity, 
is  occupied  by  a  very  extensive  moss,  girt  by  the  river 
Shiel ;  this  stream,  which  flows  from  Loch  Shiel,  and 
one  from  Loch  Morir,  being  the  principal  rivers,  and 
both  falling  into  the  western  ocean.  The  name  of  the 
Sunart  district,  written,  in  some  ancient  records,  Swyne- 
fort,  or  Su-yniford,  is  supposed  to  have  been  derived  from 
the  circumstance  of  a  king  of  Denmark  named  Swin, 
who  was  driven  from  his  own  country  for  apostatizing 
from  Christianity,  having,  in  the  10th  century,  landed 
in  a  creek  here,  on  the  western  shore,  called,  in  conse- 
quence of  that  event,  Swineard.  This  tract  is  a  con- 
tinuation of  that  of  Ardnamurchan,  about  twenty-five 
miles  long,  and  ten  in  average  breadth,  and,  for  several 
miles  from  its  commencement,  has  the  appearance  of 
a  mountain  ridge.  After  this  the  eminences  expand, 
reaching  to  Loch  Sunart  on  the  south,  and  Loch  Shiel  on 
the  north  and  north-west,  leaving  a  large  intermediate 
space,  filled  up  with  lofty  hills  and  deep  valleys  and 
glens,  thrown  together  in  the  greatest,  irregularity  and 
confusion.  The  most  lofty  mountains  are,  Ben-Reisi- 
poll,  Scur-Dhoniel,  Scour-Choinich,  Creach-Bhunn,  and, 
Glaschoiren  Hill,  reaching  respectively  2661  feet,  2730 
feet,  2364  feet,  2439  feet,  and  1920  feet  in  height.  The 
district  contains  two  extensive  and  interesting  valleys, 
of  which  that  of  Strontian,  near  its  eastern  extremity, 
opening  at  Loch  Sunart,  stretches  for  about  five  miles 
inland.  It  is  ornamented  in  succession  from  its  en- 
trance with  clusters  of  fine  natural  oak,  flourishing 
plantations  surrounding  a  tasteful  mansion  with  well 
laid  out  grounds,  an  excellent  and  well-cultivated  farm, 
with  the  crofts  and  tenements  of  numerous  cottagers,  the 
government  church  near  the  stream  that  runs  through 
the  valley,  and,  further  on,  the  pleasing  manse.  Glen- 
aheurich,  a  few  miles  north  of  the  former  valley,  con- 
tains a  spacious  lake,  and  affords  excellent  pasturage 
for  sheep  ;  and  besides  this,  there  are  other  glens  of 
inferior  dimensions,  bounded  with  picturesque  hills  dis- 
playing a  profusion  of  verdure  and  ornamental  wood. 
Vol.  I.— 65 


The  district  of  Moidart  takes  its  name  from  a  compound 
Gaelic  term  signifying  "  the  height  of  sea-spray,"  and 
extends  about  ten  or  twelve  miles  in  breadth,  and  twenty- 
five  in  length,  in  a  direction  parallel  with  Sunart,  along 
the  whole  boundary  of  Loch  Shiel.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
west  and  north  by  the  sea,  and  the  continuous  range  of 
mountains  along  the  coast  on  each  side,  incloses  an 
intermediate  and  lofty  ridge,  exhibiting  a  summit  with 
a  magnificent  assemblage  of  crags,  rocks,  hills,  and 
ravines,  rendered  more  interesting  to  the  curious  ob- 
server by  the  almost  impossible  attempt  to  find  their 
parallel.  There  are,  however,  in  this  elevated  portion, 
some  tolerably  good  plains,  and  a  valley  called  Glenala- 
dale,  about  300  yards  broad,  and  containing  fair  arable 
and  pasture  land.  The  districts  of  Arasaig  and  South 
Morir,  not  separated  from  each  other  by  any  marked. 
features,  constitute  together  a  tract  twenty-four  miles  in 
length,  and  fifteen  broad  :  a  long  and  very  dreary  valley 
named  Glenmeuble,  stretches  along  Arasaig  for  ten 
miles,  with  a  farm  at  the  eastern  end,  and  a  small  loch 
called  Brosaig,  not  very  far  off.  The  parish  contains 
numerous  fresh-water  lakes,  many  of  which  abound  with 
trout :  the  principal  of  them  is  Loch  Shiel,  which  sepa- 
rates the  county  of  Argyll  from  that  of  Inverness,  and  is 
embosomed  amid  mountains  of  the  most  magnificent 
description,  very  little  known  to  travellers.  At  the 
western  extremity  of  this  lake  is  the  beautiful  island  of 
Finnan. 

The  soil  is  various,  but  generally  light  and  shallow ; 
only  a  small  portion  is  fit  for  superior  husbandry, 
and  the  remainder  is  moor  and  moss,  of  which  latter 
kind  there  are  several  large  tracts  styled  moss-flats, 
especially  adjacent  to  Loch  Shiel.  That  called  the 
Moss  of  Kintra  covers  an  area  of  seven  square  miles, 
and,  like  some  of  the  others,  is  a  quagmire  in  the  middle, 
of  unknown  depth,  though  considerable  portions  near 
the  margin  are  capable  of  improvement.  Oats  and  bear 
are  raised  ;  but  potatoes,  hay,  wool,  and  the  cuttings  of 
wood,  make  the  largest  items  in  the  returns  of  produce. 
The  black-faced  sheep  are  those  chiefly  kept,  and  the 
cattle  are  the  Argyllshire  ;  the  pasture  lands  are  in  many 
parts  of  an  excellent  kind,  and  both  sheep  and  cattle 
are  generally  of  a  superior  description,  and  receive  much 
attention.  The  method  of  cultivation  varies  according  to 
the  nature  of  the  soil  and  the  locality  ;  the  best  imple- 
ments are  in  use,  and  shell-sand  mixed  with  kelp,  and 
various  deposits  from  the  sea-shore,  .are  extensively  em- 
ployed as  manure.  Considerable  improvements  have  been 
made  on  some  estates,  within  these  few  years,  and  the 
farm-buildings  of  superior  tenants  are  good,  but  those  of 
the  inferior  class  of  the  worst  description.  The  extent  of 
arable  land  in  the  Ardnamurchan  and  Sunart  districts 
is  upwards  of  5000  acres,  about  half  turned  by  the 
plough,  and  half  by  the  spade;  and  it  is  supposed  that 
the  quantity  throughout  the  parish  might  he  doubled, 
with  a  profitable  application  of  capital,  there  being,  in 
these  two  districts  alone,  more  than  12,000  acres  of 
pasture,  3000  or  more  of  moss,  and  SO.OOO  of  moor, 
much  of  which  is  capable  of  tillage.  An  agricultural 
association,  principally  connected  with  Ardnamurchan 
and  Sunart,  and  some  neighbouring  places,  meets  annu- 
ally at  Strontian,  under  the  auspices  of  which  great  im- 
provement has  taken  place  in  the  breed  of  horses,  black- 
cattle,  and  sheep.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £6S94.     The  rocks,  to  the  distance  of  eleven 

K 


ARDN 


A  R  D  O 


or  twelve  miles  eastward  from  Ardnamurchan  point, 
are  of  the  trap  formation,  whiustone  being  most  preva- 
lent, and  appearing  in  numerous  dykes  which  intersect 
each  other  in  all  directions  ;  and  in  some  places  are 
found  portions  of  slate,  sandstone,  and  limestone,  the 
last  in  large  masses.  Beyond  these  strata,  further  east- 
ward, the  gneiss,  or  mica-slate,  shows  itself,  and  the 
rocks  become  much  more  abrupt  and  lofty ;  a  quarry  is 
in  operation  at  Laga,  of  micaceous  rock,  of  fine  quality, 
abundant  in  the  parish  ;  and  at  Strontian,  excellent  gra- 
nite is  raised,  at  which  place,  also,  lead-mines  are  open, 
but  not  at  present  worked.  Previously  to  1722,  these 
mines  were  let  to  the  Duke  of  Norfolk  and  others,  and 
afterwards  were  held  by  the  York  Building  Company,  and 
worked  to  the  conclusion  of  the  last  war,  the  proprietor 
receiving  at  that  time,  from  £1000  to  £1500  per  annum 
for  rent,  amounting  to  one-eighth  of  the  produce  ;  they 
were  also  let"  in  the  year  1836,  but  the  works  were 
shortly  discontinued.  The  wood  is  of  considerable  ex- 
tent throughout  the  parish,  including  much  oak,  valu- 
able for  its  timber,  birch,  hazel,  alder,  and  ash,  all  of 
natural  growth  ;  and  the  plantations  comprise  fir,  plane, 
oak,  and  ash  trees.  Arasaig  House  is  an  elegant  modern 
mansion  of  polished  freestone.  The  population  is  chiefly 
rural,  and  scattered  through  the  different  districts  ;  a 
few  are  engaged  in  salmon-fishing,  on  the  river  Shiel, 
and  others  in  taking  herrings  on  some  of  the  lochs ; 
two  decked-vessels  belong  to  the  place,  one  of  fifty,  and 
the  other  of  twenty  tons.  There  is  a  post-office  at 
Strontian,  with  a  daily  post;  also  one  at  Arasaig,  with 
a  delivery  three  times  weekly ;  and  a  third  at  Kilchoan, 
communicating,  by  a  messenger,  with  Strontian,  twice 
each  week.  A  road  runs  from  Arasaig,  by  Glenfinnan, 
to  Fort- William  and  the  Caledonian  canal,  and  another 
from  Strontian  to  Corran  Ferry,  by  each  of  which  cattle 
and  sheep  are  driven  to  the  southern  markets.  The 
principal  communication,  however,  is  by  steam-vessels 
from  Glasgow,  which  touch  at  the  point  of  Arasaig,  and 
at  Tobermory,  a  sea-port,  in  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
island  of  Mull,  about  five  miles  south  from  the  harbour 
of  Kilchoan,  in  Ardnamurchan.  A  fair  is  held  at  Stron- 
tian, in  May,  and  another  in  October,  for  cattle  and 
sheep  ;  and  there  is  also  a  cattle  and  sheep  fair  at 
Arasaig. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Mull  and  synod  of 
Argyll,  and  is  ecclesiastically  distributed  into  five 
portions,  namely,  the  parish  church  district,  two  quoad 
sacra  parishes,  a  district  under  the  care  of  a  missionary, 
and  another  under  that  of  an  assistant.  The  first  of 
these  embraces  the  western  portion  of  the  peninsula  of 
Ardnamurchan,  and  contains  a  place  of  worship  at  Kil- 
choan, on  the  south,  four  or  five  miles  from  the  point, 
and  one  at  Kilmorie,  on  the  northern  coast,  at  which 
the  minister  officiates  alternately.  The  Kilchoan  church, 
which,  on  account  of  its  situation,  commands  the  larger 
attendance,  is  a  superior  edifice,  built  in  1831,  and  accom- 
modating more  than  600  persons  ;  that  of  Kilmorie, 
raised  by  a  late  incumbent,  is  a  very  humble  struc- 
ture, originally  built  of  dry  stone,  and  thatched.  The 
minister  has  a  stipend  of  about  £270,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  of  27  acres,  valued  at  £10  or  £12  per 
annum  ;  patron,  the  Duke  of  Argyll.  The  quoad  sacra 
church  at  Strontian  is  thirty  miles  distant  from 
the  parish  church  ;  that  at  Aharacle  is  situated  at  the 
west-end  of  Loch  Shiel,  23  miles  distant.  The  mission 
66 


of  Laga  comprehends  about  eleven  miles  of  the  coast  of 
Loch  Sunart,  partly  in  the  parish  church  district,  and 
partly  in  that  of  Aharacle  ;  the  minister  receives  £60 
per  annum  from  the  Royal  Bounty,  and  has  built  a 
preaching-house  at  his  own  expense.  The  district  of 
the  assistant  is  by  far  the  largest  ecclesiastical  division, 
embracing  the  principal  part  of  Moidart,  and  the  whole 
of  Arasaig  and  South  Morir,  and  has  a  small  preaching- 
house,  built  partly  by  subscription,  at  Polnish,  near 
Inveraylort,  and  a  school-house  at  Ardnafuaran,  in 
Arasaig  :  he  receives  from  the  parish  minister  £55.  11.  1., 
and  £32  from  the  Royal  Bounty,  with  £5  for  communion 
elements.  There  are  five  Roman  Catholic  chapels,  with 
two  officiating  priests.  The  parochial  school,  situated  at 
Kilchoan,  affords  the  ordinary  instruction ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £25.  13.  3.,  with  £10  fees,  and  a  house, 
garden,  and  two  acres  of  land,  the  whole  valued  at  £7. 
The  parish  contains  several  vitrified  forts ;  but  the  chief 
relic  of  antiquity  is  the  castle  of  Mingary,  on  the  south- 
ern shore  of  Ardnamurchan,  once  the  stronghold  of  Mac 
Ian,  from  which  James  IV.,  in  1493,  granted  a  charter, 
and  where,  two  years  afterwards,  he  held  his  court,  to 
receive  the  submission  of  the  nobles  of  the  forfeited 
lordship  of  the  Isles.  On  the  plain,  at  Glenfinnan,  is 
a  tower  erected  in  commemoration  of  the  events  of  1745, 
by  Alexander  Mc  Donald,  of  Glenaladale,  with  an  in- 
scription by  Dr.  Donald  Mc  Lean  ;  the  successor  to  the 
property,  Angus  Mc  Donald,  Esq.,  has  lately  much  im- 
proved it,  and  crowned  the  summit  with  a  statue  of 
Prince  Charles  Stuart. 

ARDOCH,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  comprising  - 
the  villages  of  Balhaddie,  Buttergask,  Greenloaning,  and 
Rottearn,  in  the  parish  of  Dunblane;  the  post-vil- 
lage of  Braco,  in  the  parish  of  Muthill  ;  and  part  of 
the  parish  of  Blackford,  in  the  county  of  Perth  ; 
the  whole  containing  15S4  inhabitants.  This  place  is 
about  seven  miles  in  length  by  six  in  breadth,  and  is 
intersected  by  the  high  road  from  Crieff  to  Dunblane 
and  Stirling ;  two-thirds  of  the  soil  are  in  tillage  or 
pasture,  and  the  remainder,  with  the  exception  of  a 
portion  under  plantation,  is  uncultivated.  At  Rottearn, 
is  a  small  manufactory  for  converting  potatoes  into 
flour.  Fairs  are  held  on  the  first  Wednesday  in 
January,  the  last  Tuesday  in  April,  and  the  first  Tues- 
day in  August,  chiefly  for  cattle.  The  village,  which  is 
small,  is  prettily  situated  on  the  above-mentioned  road, 
about  nine  miles  south-by- west  from  Crieff.  The  parish 
was  in  the  presbytery  of  Auchterarder  and  synod  of  Perth 
and  Stirling;  the  minister's  stipend  was  £94,  with  a 
manse  and  garden,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £6  per  annum  ; 
the  heads  of  families  in  communion  with  the  Church  of 
Scotland  were  the  patrons.  The  church,  erected  by 
subscription  in  17S0,  is  a  plain  edifice,  and  contains  555 
sittings.  The  Associate  Secession  Synod  and  the  Free 
Church  have  places  of  worship  ;  and  there  is  a  paro- 
chial school.  Near  the  village  is  the  most  entire  Roman 
camp  that  remains  in  Scotland ;  it  was  probably  esta- 
blished during  the  fourth  campaign  of  Agricola,  a.d. 
48,  and  is  1060  feet  in  length  and  900  in  breadth,  and 
could  contain  26,000  men,  according  to  the  ordinary 
distribution  of  the  Roman  soldiers  in  their  encamp- 
ments. There  appear  to  have  been  seven  ditches  sur- 
rounding it,  and  it  was  defended  on  the  west  side,  by 
the  small  river  Knaik ;  the  four  entries  crossing  the 
lines,  are  still  distinctly  to  be  seen. 


A  R  D  R 


A  RD  R 


ARDRISSAIG,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  South 
Knapdale,  county  of  Argyll  j  containing  about  400 
inhabitants.  This  village,  situated  at  the  harbour  of 
Ardrissaig,  in  Loch  Gilp,  a  branch  of  Loch  Fine,  has 
sprung  up  since  the  commencement  of  the  Crinan 
canal,  in  1*93,  and  is  of  respectable  appearance.  It  is 
the  scene  of  much  bustle  and  traffic,  occasioned  by  the 
convenience  of  its  harbour,  at  the  opening  of  the  canal 
into  Loch  Gilp,  where,  exclusive  of  the  business  in  goods 
and  passengers  connected  with  the  canal,  it  is  computed 
that  about  24,000  persons  are  landed  and  shipped  an- 
nually, besides  large  numbers  of  sheep  and  cattle,  by  the 
Glasgow  steam-vessels,  three  of  which  in  summer,  and 
one  in  winter,  arrive  here  daily.  In  the  adjacent  har- 
bour is  a  slip  and  steam-boat  pier,  erected  in  1S37,  at 
an  expense  of  more  than  £1000  ;  and  independently  of 
the  boats  belonging  to  the  parish,  forty  or  fifty  in  num- 
ber, many  others,  making  together  above  100,  are 
frequently  in  the  harbour  in  the  fishing  season,  her- 
rings being  taken  in  Loch  Fine,  in  very  large  numbers. 
One  of  the  parochial  schools  was  established  here,  but  is 
now  included  in  the  new  parish  of  Lochgilphead. 

ARDROSSAN,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cunning- 
hams, county  of  Ayr  ;  including  the  thriving  town  of 
Ardrossan,  and  the  greater  part  of  Saltcoats,  74  miles 
(\V.  S.  W.)  from  Edinburgh;  and  containing  4947  inha- 
bitants. This  place  derives  its  name,  of  Celtic  origin,  from 
the  situation  of  its  ancient  baronial  castle  on  a  small  pro- 
montory. Little  is  known  of  its  earlier  history;  and 
of  its  ancient  proprietors,  not  much  further  notice  occurs 
than  that  Sir  Fergus  de  Ardrossan  accompanied  Edward 
Bruce,  in  his  expedition  into  Ireland,  in  1316,  and  was 
one  of  the  Scottish  barons  who,  in  1320,  signed  a  me- 
morial to  the  pope,  complaining  of  the  aggressions  of 
Edward  I.  of  England.  The  castle,  during  the  time  of 
Baliol,  being  occupied  by  the  English,  was  surprised 
and  taken  by  William  Wallace,  who,  arriving  in  the 
night  with  a  few  of  his  followers,  set  fire  to  the  few 
houses  situated  around  the  base  of  the  hill  on  which  it 
stood,  and  on  the  garrison  going  out  to  extinguish  the 
flames,  rushed  into  the  castle,  made  themselves  masters 
of  the  gates,  and  put  all  the  English  to  the  sword,  as 
they  unsuspectingly  returned.  The  castle  appears  to 
have  been  inhabited  till  the  time  of  Cromwell,  who  is 
said  to  have  thrown  down  its  walls,  and  to  have  not 
only  demolished  it,  but  carried  away  the  materials,  for 
the  erection  of  the  fort  which  he  built  at  Ayr.  On  the 
death  of  the  last  Baron  Ardrossan,  without  issue  male, 
the  estate  passed,  by  marriage  with  his  heiress,  to  the 
Montgomerie  family,  its  present  proprietors. 

The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  shore  of  the 
Frith  of  Clyde,  and  owes  its  rise  to  the  fostering  patron- 
age of  the  late  Earl  of  Eglinton,  by  whom  it  was  origi- 
nally built,  and  by  whom  the  harbour  to  which  it  owes 
its  importance  was  originally  constructed,  chiefly  at  his 
own  expense.  It  consists  of  various  spacious  and  regu- 
larly-formed  streets,  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles, 
and  containing  houses  uniformly  and  handsomely  built, 
and  is  much  frequented,  during  the  season ;  the  town 
is  lighted,  and  has  a  good  supply  of  water.  Lodging- 
houses  have  been  built,  for  the  reception  of  the  com- 
pany who  resort  hither  for  bathing,  and  a  spacious  hotel 
has  been  erected,  containing  ten  public  rooms,  and  a 
proportionate  number  of  sleeping  rooms,  with  hot  and 
cold  baths.  The  public  baths,  for  which  a  handsome 
67 


building  has  been  erected,  were  originally  established, 
on  the  tontine  principle,  by  the  late  Earl  of  Eglinton, 
after  whose  decease  they  were  suspended  for  a  time,  till, 
in  1833,  they  were  purchased  by  the  present  proprietor, 
by  whom  the  buildings  have  been  enlarged,  and  put 
into  a  state  of  complete  repair.  The  baths  are  of  mar- 
ble, with  convenient  dressing-rooms  attached  to  each  ; 
tliey  are  under  excellent  management,  and  hot,  cold, 
shower,  and  vapour  baths  are  prepared  on  the  shortest 
notice.  Connected  with  the  establishment,  are  nume- 
rous lodging-rooms,  which  are  fully  occupied  during 
the  season ;  there  is  also  a  bath  gratuitously  appro- 
priated to  the  use  of  the  poor.  In  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  the  town  are  several  villas,  pleasantly 
situated,  commanding  good  views  of  the  Frith ;  and 
around  the  margin  of  the  bay,  a  crescent  has  been  laid 
out,  forming  a  splendid  addition  to  the  appearance  of 
the  town.  The  pavilion,  the  marine  villa  of  the  Earl  of 
Eglinton,  is  an  elegant  seat,  occasionally  the  residence 
of  his  lordship  ;  there  are  many  agreeable  walks  in  the 
environs,  and  between  this  and  Saltcoats,  is  a  fine  sandy 
beach,  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  which  is 
a  favourite  promenade.  There  are  about  sixty  looms  in 
the  town,  employed  in  the  weaving  of  shawls  and  heavier 
articles,  and  lighter  articles  of  silk  and  cotton,  and  in 
Saltcoats  nearly  450  ;  many  of  the  females  are  also  en- 
gaged in  working  muslin.  Fairs  are  held  in  July,  and 
on  the  fourth  Thursday  in  November,  for  cattle  and 
various  kinds  of  merchandise  ;  facility  of  communica- 
tion is  afforded  by  excellent  roads  to  all  the  neighbour- 
ing towns. 

The  harbour,  according  to  the  primary  plan,  as 
projected  by  the  late  Earl  of  Eglinton,  will  very  shortly 
be  one  of  the  finest  harbours  of  Scotland.  In  the 
original  undertaking,  his  lordship  was  joined  by  seve- 
ral gentlemen  of  the  county,  and  others,  who  became 
shareholders ;  but  the  sums  expended  on  the  works 
having  greatly  exceeded  the  amount  of  the  subscrip- 
tions, the  subsequent  expense  was  borne  solely  by 
Lord  Eglinton,  who  spent  little  less  than  £100,000  in 
the  prosecution  of  the  undertaking.  After  his  decease, 
however,  the  works  were  suspended,  and  the  harbour 
remained  in  an  unfinished  state  till  1844,  when  the 
works  were  resumed,  and  the  construction  of  docks  was 
proceeded  with,  in  the  most  spirited  manner,  by  the 
present  earl.  The  harbour  is  easy  of  access,  and  screened 
from  adverse  winds,  and,  during  rough  weather,  is  fre- 
quently crowded  with  vessels  which  run  in  for  safety ; 
it  has  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet  depth  of  water.  The 
exports  are,  iron  and  coal,  and  general  goods  from 
Glasgow  ;  and  the  imports,  timber  from  America,  corn, 
cattle  and  provisions  from  Ireland,  and  goods  from  the 
manufacturing  districts  of  England.  Many  vessels  in 
the  coal  trade,  both  from  Irvine  and  Saltcoats,  put  in 
here,  to  complete  their  cargoes  ;  the  number  of  vessels 
which  arrived  at  the  quay  in  1S37,  was  1963,  of  the 
aggregate  burthen  of  10S,549  tons,  and  the  number  of 
men,  10,110.  Ship-building  is  pursued  on  a  consider- 
able scale.  Fishing  is  carried  on  to  a  moderate  extent  ; 
salmon  are  taken  in  the  Frith,  by  the  bag-net,  and  for- 
warded to  the  Glasgow,  Paisley,  and  Kilmarnock  mar- 
kets ;  few  white-fish  are  taken,  but  several  boats  are 
employed  in  the  herring-fishery,  and  some  few  in  the 
cod  and  ling  fishery,  on  the  coast  of  Barra.  In  the  for- 
mation of  the  harbour,  it  was  the  hope  of  Lord  Eglin- 

K2 


ARDR 


A  R  G  Y 


ton,  to  render  it  the  chief  harbour  of  Glasgow,  as,  from 
the  favourable  nature  of  its  position,  it  might  super- 
sede entirely  the  circuitous  navigation  of  the  river  Clyde  ; 
and  in  this  view,  in  order  to  unite  Ardrossan  with  that 
town,  he  commenced  the  formation  of  a  canal,  which, 
during  his  lifetime,  was  completed  merely  from  Glas- 
gow to  Johnstone,  in  the  county  of  Renfrew.  In  ]  82"', 
an  act  was  obtained  for  laying  down  a  railway  from 
the  harbour,  to  join  the  canal  at  Johnstone,  which  was, 
however,  effected  only  for  about  six  miles,  to  Kilwin- 
ning, from  which  a  branch  of  about  four  miles  extended 
to  the  Eglinton  collieries ;  this  part  of  the  work  was 
completed  in  1832,  and  in  1S40,  an  act  was  passed, 
separating  the  management  of  the  railroad  from  that 
of  the  canal,  and  incorporating  the  proprietors,  with 
a  capital  of  £S0,000.  At  Kilwinning,  the  Ardrossan 
railway  joins  the  Glasgow  and  Ayr  line.  Steam-boats 
sail  four  times  a  week  to  Fleetwood  in  Lancashire,  and 
furnish  the  most  rapid  means  of  communication  be- 
tween this  part  of  Scotland  and  the  manufacturing  dis- 
tricts of  England  ;  there  are  also  steamers  to  Belfast, 
Londonderry,  Glasgow,  and  other  places. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the.  south  and  south-west 
by  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  and  comprises  about  5520  Scot- 
tish acres,  of  which  1250  are  arable,  2350  meadow  and 
pasture,  1800  hilly  pasture,  and  about  150  woodland 
and  plantations.  The  surface  is  agreeably  diversified 
with  tracts  of  level  land,  and  gentle  undulations  rising 
into  hills  of  different  elevation,  which  increase  in  height 
towards  the  coast ;  the  highest  of  them  is  called  Knock- 
Georgan,  and  is  700  feet  above  the  sea,  commanding  a 
rich  prospect.  Of  the  others,  only  one  has  an  eleva- 
tion of  400  feet ;  several  of  them  are  ornamented  with 
clumps  of  trees,  and  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  the 
scenery.  The  shore  is  generally  level,  and  indented  with 
bays  of  various  dimensions,  of  which  that  of  Ardrossan  is 
very  picturesque  ;  it  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in 
length,  and  to  the  north  of  it,  is  another  fine  bay,  of 
larger  size  ;  the  coast  here  becomes  rocky  and  irregular, 
and  ridges  of  shelving  rocks  extend  for  a  considerable 
length.  Nearly  opposite  the  harbour,  and  about  a  mile 
from  the  shore,  is  Horse  Isle,  containing  about  twelve 
acres,  on  which  a  beacon  tower  was  erected  by  the 
late  Earl  of  Eglinton,  for  the  benefit  of  vessels  ap- 
proaching the  harbour,  and  which  it  has  been  in  con- 
templation to  convert  into  a  light-house.  The  chief 
rivulets  are,  the  Stanley  and  Monfode  burns,  which 
descend  from  the  higher  lands,  and,  after  flowing 
through  the  parish,  fall  into  the  Frith  ;  and  the  Mun- 
nock  or  Caddel  burn,  a  more  copious  stream,  which 
intersects  the  upper  part  of  the  parish,  and  falls  into 
the  river  Caaf,  which  separates  it  from  the  parish  of 
Dairy.  The  soil,  towards  the  coast,  is  light  and  sandy, 
and  in  the  higher  grounds  a  tenacious  clay,  occasionally 
intermixed  with  loam  ;  it  has  been  rendered  generally 
fertile  by  long  cultivation,  and  a  judicious  use  of  sea- 
weed and  lime  for  manure.  The  principal  crops  are, 
oats,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the  system  of  agri- 
culture is  in  a  very  advanced  state  ;  the  lands  are  well 
drained  and  inclosed,  and  great  improvements  have  been 
made,  and  much  unprofitable  land  reclaimed,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Agricultural  Society,  which  holds  its 
meetings  here  in  November.  Great  attention  is  paid  to 
the  management  of  the  dairies  ;  and  about  10,000  stone 
of  cheese,  of  good  quality,  are  annuallv  produced,  which 
68 


supply  the  neighbouring  markets.  The  cows  are  gene- 
rally of  the  Cunninghame  or  Ayrshire  breed.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £11,775.  The 
substrata  are,  limestone,  freestone,  and  coal ;  the  last 
was  formerly  wrought  in  the  northern  part  of  the  parish, 
and  in  the  vicinity  of  Saltcoats,  but  the  workings  have 
been,  for  some  time,  discontinued.  There  are  three 
limestone  quarries  in  the  upper  part  of  the  parish  ;  the 
freestone  is  found  both  of  a  red  and  white  colour,  and 
there  is  an  extensive  quarry  of  the  former,  close  to  the 
town  of  Ardrossan,  from  which  was  raised  the  stone  for 
building  the  town  and  forming  the  quay.  Near  the 
town  are  also  various  kinds  of  whinstone,  of  which 
whole  rocks  have  been  blasted  with  gunpowder,  and 
used  in  the  formation  of  the  breakwater.  There  are 
several  strata  of  ironstone  near  the  public  baths,  varying 
from  two  inches  to  nearly  five  feet  in  thickness,  but, 
from  their  situation,  the  working  of  them  has  not  been 
thought  likely  to  repay  the  expense  ;  a  variety  of  fossil 
shells  is  found  in  several  parts,  and  it  is  generally  sup- 
posed that  the  sea  has  considerably  receded  from  this 
part  of  the  coast. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Irvine  and  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £261.  1.  3., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum  ; 
patron,  the  Earl  of  Eglinton.  The  old  church,  which 
was  situated  on  the  Castle-hill,  at  Ardrossan,  was  de- 
stroyed by  a  storm,  in  1691,  and  another  erected  on  a 
site  about  half  a  mile  further  from  the  coast ;  and  this 
church,  also,  being  so  much  shaken  by  a  storm,  in  1773, 
as  to  be  considered  unsafe,  was  taken  down,  and  the 
present  church  built,  in  the  town  of  Saltcoats,  in  1774  ; 
it  is  a  substantial  edifice,  adapted  for  a  congregation  of 
S40  persons.  A  Gaelic  church  has  likewise  been  erected 
in  Saltcoats,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  numerous 
Highland  families  resident  there,  at  an  expense  of  £1000, 
and  is  a  neat  edifice,  for  750  persons  ;  another  church 
was  built  in  1S44,  at  Ardrossan.  There  is  a  place 
of  worship  for  members  of  the  United  Secession.  The 
parochial  school,  situated  in  the  town  of  Saltcoats, 
is  well  conducted  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4., 
and  £25  from  fees,  with  a  house  and  garden.  Of  the 
ancient  castle  of  Ardrossan,  some  small  fragments  only 
are  remaining ;  on  the  lands  of  Monfode,  are  the  re- 
mains of  a  baronial  castle,  much  dilapidated,  formerly 
the  residence  of  a  family  of  that  name.  On  Knock- 
Georgan,  are  the  remains  of  a  Danish  camp  ;  and  on 
one  of  the  other  hills  in  the  parish,  is  an  artificial 
mound,  of  rectangular  form,  sixteen  yards  long,  nine 
yards  wide,  and  the  same  in  height,  with  sloping  banks, 
concerning  which  nothing  authentic  is  recorded.  Dr. 
Robert  Simpson,  professor  of  mathematics  in  the  uni- 
versity of  Glasgow,  was  a  heritor  of  this  parish,  where 
he  was  accustomed  to  reside  during  the  vacations,  on  his 
estate  of  Knockewart. 

ARGYLLSHIRE,  a  maritime  county,  in  the  south- 
west of  Scotland,  bounded  on  the  north  by  Inverness- 
shire  ;  on  the  east,  by  the  counties  of  Inverness,  Perth, 
and  Dumbarton  ;  and  on  the  south  and  west,  by  the 
Atlantic  Ocean.  It  lies  between  55°  21'  and  57° 
(N.  lat.),  and  4°  15'  and  7°  10'  (W.  long.),  and  is  about 
115  miles  in  extreme  length,  and  about  55  miles  in 
average  breadth,  comprising  an  area,  including  the 
various  islands  connected  with  it,  of  about  3S00  square 
miles,  of  which,  what  may  be  considered  as   the  conti- 


ARGY 


A  It  G  Y 


nent,  contains  about  2735  square  miles,  or  1,750,400 
acres.  There  are  19,207  houses,  of  which  1S,552  are 
inhabited  ;  and  a  population  of  97,371,  of  whom  47,795 
are  males,  and  49,576  females.  The  county  appears  to 
have  been  occupied,  at  an  early  period,  chiefly  by  the 
Scots,  who,  emigrating  from  the  Irish  coasts,  settled  in 
the  peninsula  of  Cantyre,  and,  after  the  subjugation  of 
the  Picts,  and  the  union  of  the  two  kingdoms  under 
Kenneth  Me  Alpine,  became  identified  with  the  general 
population  of  the  country.  In  the  legends  of  romance, 
this  part  of  Scotland  is  celebrated  as  the  principal  scene 
of  the  exploits  of  the  heroes  of  the  race  of  Fingal,  and 
as  the  birthplace  of  the  bard  Ossian,  whose  poems  are 
still  the  subject  of  deeply-interesting  research  among  the 
learned.  Ossian  is  said  to  have  been  born  in  the  valley 
of  Glencoe ;  and  the  county,  which  abounds  with  nu- 
merous localities  connected  with  the  achievements  of  his 
heroes,  still  retains,  in  a  very  high  degree,  that  spirit 
of  feudal  vassalage  for  which  it  was,  for  ages,  pre-emi- 
nently remarkable.  The  family  of  Campbell,  long  dis- 
tinguished as  the  principal  of  that  extensive  and  powerful 
clan,  and  ancestors  of  the  dukes  of  Argyll,  for  many 
generations  possessed  an  absolute  and  sovereign  autho- 
rity over  their  vassals,  who,  on  all  occasions,  rallied 
round  the  standard  of  their  chieftain,  with  all  the  fidelity 
of  kindred  attachment,  and  tendered  the  most  arduous 
services  with  implicit  submission  to  his  controul. 

Prior  to  the  Reformation,  the  county  was,  for  cen- 
turies, the  seat  of  a  diocese,  of  which  the  bishop  resided 
on  the  island  of  Lismore,  between  the  main  land  and 
the  isle  of  Mull,  where  the  cathedral  church  was  situ- 
ated ;  and  the  jurisdiction  extended  over  all  the  adjacent 
islands,  including  those  of  Bute  and  Arran.  Since  that 
period,  it  has  constituted  the  chief  part  of  the  synod  of 
Argyll,  comprising  the  presbyteries  of  Inverary,  Dunoon, 
Cantyre,  Islay  and  Jura,  Lorn,  and  Mull,  and  about 
fifty  parishes.  For  civil  purposes,  the  county  is  divided 
into  the  districts  of  Argyll,  Cowal,  Islay,  Cantyre, 
Lorn,  and  Mull  ;  and  is  under  the  jurisdiction  of  a 
sheriff-depute,  by  whom  three  sheriffs-substitute  are  ap- 
pointed, who  reside,  respectively,  at  Inverary,  which  is 
the  county  town,  at  Campbelltown,  and  Tobermory. 
The  courts  of  assize  and  general  quarter-sessions  are 
held  at  Inverary;  and  courts  for  the  recovery  of  small 
debts,  are  held,  four  times  in  the  }rear,  at  Oban,  Loch- 
gilphead, Dunoon,  and  Bowmore  ;  and  twice  in  the  year, 
at  Strontian.  The  royal  burghs  are  Inverary  and  Camp- 
belltown ;  and  in  addition  to  the  others  above  noticed, 
the  county  contains  the  small  town  of  Ballichulish,  and 
some  inconsiderable  hamlets.  Under  the  act  of  the 
2nd  of  William  IV.,  the  county  returns  one  member  to 
the  imperial  parliament. 

The  surface  is  generally  wild  and  mountainous,  es- 
pecially towards  the  north,  where  it  borders  on  the 
Grampian  range ;  and  even  along  the  coasts,  of  which 
there  is  an  extent  of  more  than  600  miles,  and  where 
the  land  is  lowest,  there  are  numerous  bills  of  very 
considerable  elevation.  The  most  mountainous  parts  of 
the  county  are,  however,  interspersed  with  pleasing  and 
fertile  tracts  of  valley,  watered  by  streams,  on  the  banks 
of  which  are  some  productive  arable  lands  ;  and  the 
slopes  of  the  hills,  in  many  places,  afford  good  pasture. 
Of  the  numerous  Inlands  which  are  included  within  the 
limits  of  the  county,  the  principal  are,  Mull,  Jura,  Islay, 
Coll,  Tiree,  Colonsay,  Lismore,  and  Oronsay,  with 
69 


smaller  islands,  all  of  which  are  noticed  under  their  re- 
spective heads.  The  coasts  are  deeply  indented  with 
arms  of  the  sea,  forming  Sounds  between  the  mainland 
and  the  several  islands,  and  some  of  which  penetrate 
deeply  into  the  land,  constituting  salt-water  lakes  of 
considerable  extent.  Of  these,  the  principal  are,  the 
Sound  of  Mull,  between  the  island  of  that  name  and 
the  mainland  ;  the  Sound  of  Jura,  separating  that  island 
from  the  continent ;  the  Sound  of  Islay,  between  the 
isles  of  Jura  and  Islay,  and  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  sepa- 
rating the  peninsula  of  Cantyre  and  the  district  of  Cowal, 
from  the  islands  of  Arran  and  Bute.  The  most  promi- 
nent Mountains  are,  the  Cruachan,  rising  from  the  north- 
eastern extremity  of  Loch  Awe,  to  the  height  of  3390 
feet;  the  Cruachlussa,  in  the  district  of  Knapdale, 
attaining  an  elevation  of  3000  feet  ;  Benreisipoll,  in 
Ardnamurchan,  2661  feet  in  height;  Buchael-Etive, 
near  Loch-Etive,  towards  the  north,  rising  2537  feet 
above  the  sea  ;  the  Paps  of  Jura,  in  the  isle  of  Jura, 
2476  feet  in  height ;  and  Beininturk,  in  Cantyre,  which 
has  an  elevation  of  2170  feet. 

Among  the  salt-water  lakes  is  Loch  Fine,  which  is  of 
very  great  depth,  nearly  60  miles  in  length,  and  varying 
from  two  to  three  miles  in  breadth,  and  on  the  shore 
of  which  is  situated  the  town  of  Inverary.  Loch  Linnhe 
lies  between  the  districts  of  Morven  and  Lorn,  and  is 
the  source  of  most  of  the  inland  lakes  which  form  the 
Caledonian  canal ;  the  scenery  on  both  its  shores  is 
strikingly  romantic,  and  the  borders  are  thickly  inter- 
spersed with  the  remains  of  ancient  fortresses,  and 
enlivened  with  numerous  handsome  residences.  Loch 
Long  extends  from  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  for  nearly  22 
miles,  into  the  land,  separating  the  county  from  that 
of  Dumbarton,  from  the  north-west  of  which  branches 
off  the  Loch  Goil,  crowned  on  its  precipitous  banks  with 
the  ruins  of  Castle  Carrick,  a  royal  residence,  of  which 
the  Duke  of  Argyll  is  hereditary  keeper.  Of  the  prin- 
cipal inland  lakes,  one  is  Loch  Awe,  the  most  extensive 
in  the  county,  about  28  miles  in  length,  and  from  one 
to  two  miles  in  breadth  ;  it  abounds  with  salmon,  eels, 
and  trout,  and  from  it  issues  a  stream  called  the  Awe, 
which  flows  into  the  loch  Etive,  at  Bunawe  ferry.  Loch 
Etive,  a  lake  of  much  smaller  extent,  communicates  with 
Loch  Awe  by  the  river  Awe,  and,  on  the  west,  with  the 
Sound  of  Mull,  from  which  it  forms  an  inlet,  nearly 
opposite  the  island  of  Lismore  ;  on  the  north  shore,  are 
the  ruins  of  the  ancient  priory  of  Ardchattan.  There 
are  several  smaller  lakes,  but  none  of  sufficient  import- 
ance to  require  particular  notice  ;  also  numerous  streams 
intersecting  the  lands  in  various  places,  few  of  which, 
however,  have  been  rendered  navigable. 

The  quantity  of  land  which  is  arable  and  in  cultiva- 
tion, is  little  more  than  100,000  acres  ;  about  30,000 
acres  are  in  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  re- 
mainder, nearly  1,300,000  acres,  with  the  exception  of 
about  25,000  in  inland  lakes  and  rivers,  is  principally 
heath,  and  hill  and  mountain  pasture.  The  soil  of  the 
arable  land  is  extremely  various  :  along  the  coasts,  it  is 
generally  a  light  gravelly  loam,  resting  upon  a  clayey 
bottom,  and  differing  in  fertility  in  different  places  ;  on 
the  lower  grounds,  in  some  parts,  is  a  mixture  of  clayey 
loam  ;  in  others,  a  kind  of  black  mossy  earth  ;  and  on 
the  slopes  of  the  hills,  a  light  gravelly  soil.  The  system 
of  agriculture  is  moderately  improved,  and  the  rotation 
plan  of  husbandry  is  growing  into  use  ;  the  chief  crops 


ARGY 


A  RN  G 


are,  oats,  bear,  and  potatoes,  with  peas  and  beans,  and  va- 
rious green  crops  ;  the  cultivation  of  turnips  has  been 
extensively  introduced.  Wheat  of  excellent  quality  has 
been  raised,  but,  though  the  soil,  in  many  parts,  is  favour- 
able to  its  growth,  very  little  attention  is  paid  to  its  cul- 
ture ;  flax,  for  domestic  use,  is  raised  in  considerable 
quantities.  The  cattle  are  principally  of  the  black  West 
Highland  breed,  and,  being  in  much  demand,  on  account 
of  the  superior  beef  they  afford,  are  reared  to  a  great 
extent  throughout  the  county,  especially  in  the  islands, 
though  sheep  form  the  principal  article  of  trade.  The 
sheep-farms  are,  in  general,  very  extensive,  and  the  stock 
is  principally  of  the  Linton  or  black-faced  breed,  though 
gradually  giving  place  to  the  Cheviot  breed,  which  has 
been  lately  introduced,  and  found  equally  well  adapted 
to  the  pastures,  and  more  profitable.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  county  is  £"261,920. 

The  chief  Substrata  are,  limestone,  which  is  very  abun- 
dant, and  freestone  of  various  kinds  and  colours,  of 
which  some  fine  specimens  are  found  in  Cantyre,  and 
also  in  Glenorchy.  Slate  is  abundant  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Easdale,  and  is  also  wrought  in  the  district  of 
Appin :  near  Inverary,  is  a  kind  of  granite  which  is 
susceptible  of  a  high  polish,  resembling  spotted  marble  ; 
and  there  are  quarries  of  marble  in  Lorn,  on  the  estate 
of  Lochiel,  and  in  the  island  of  Tiree,  which  last  is  of 
very  beautiful  quality.  Coal  is  found  near  Campbelltown, 
and  is  wrought  for  the  supply  of  that  district ;  and 
there  are  indications  of  coal  in  Morven,  and  in  the  isle 
of  Mull.  Lead-ore  has  been  wrought  at  Strontian,  and 
found  in  other  places  ;  a  copper-mine  has  been  opened 
in  the  parish  of  Kilmalie,  and  there  are,  in  the  moun- 
tains, numerous  vestiges  of  ancient  iron-works,  though 
no  ore  of  sufficient  quality  to  remunerate  the  expense 
of  working  it,  is  now  found.  The  greater  portion  of  the 
county  was  anciently  covered  with  Woods,  of  which  there 
are  at  present  but  very  small  remains,  though  the  defi- 
ciency has  been  partly  supplied  by  modern  plantations, 
especially  on  the  lands  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll.  The 
soil  and  climate  are  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  tim- 
ber of  every  kind  ;  the  most  flourishing  at  present  are, 
oak,  beech,  elm,  plane,  birch,  ash,  chesnut,  larch,  and 
Scotch,  spruce,  and  silver  firs  ;  and  within  the  last  few 
years  plantations  have  been  gradually  increasing.  The 
principal  manufacture  is  that  of  wool,  which  has  been 
made  into  carpets,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Duke 
of  Argyll ;  but  it  is  limited  to  a  very  small  extent.  The 
spinning  of  flax  is  carried  on,  solely  for  domestic  use  ; 
there  are  several  distilleries,  tanneries,  and  some  bleach- 
fields  ;  and  the  herring-fishery  in  Loch  Fine  is  on 
an  extensive  scale.  Facility  of  intercourse  has  been 
obtained  by  the  formation  of  roads  in  various  directions, 
and  canals ;  and  from  the  inlets  from  the  sea,  every 
advantage  of  steam  navigation  is  obtained.  There  are 
numerous  remains  of  ancient  castles,  forts,  Danish  en- 
campments, monasteries,  and  other  religious  houses, 
cairns,  tumuli,  Druidical  remains,  vitrified  forts,  many 
Fingalian  relics,  and  other  monuments  of  antiquity,  all 
jf  which  are  noticed  in  the  articles  on  the  several  loca- 
lities where  they  occur.  The  county  confers  the  title  of 
Duke  on  the  celebrated  family  of  Campbell,  who  were 
created  Earls  of  Argyll  in  1457,  advanced  to  the  Mar- 
quessate  in  1641,  and  made  Dukes  in  1701,  and  who 
also  bear  several  dignities  named  after  different  divisions 
of  the  county. 
70   " 


ARINANGOUR,  a  village,  in  the  island  of  Coll, 
parish  of  Tiree  and  Coll,  county  of  Argyll  ;  con- 
taining about  170  inhabitants.  This  place,  situated 
about  the  middle  of  the  island  of  Coll,  contains  the  only 
harbour  of  any  note  in  that  portion  of  the  parish  ;  it 
has  a  pier,  and  is  considered  a  safe  retreat  for  shipping, 
but  has  the  disadvantage  of  a  rocky  entrance. 

ARMADALE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Bathgate, 
county  of  Linlithgow,  2  miles  (W.)  from  Bathgate ; 
containing  121  inhabitants.  This  place  derives  its  name 
from  an  estate  in  the  vicinity,  which  once  belonged  to  a 
senator  in  the  college  of  justice  whose  title  was  Lord 
Armadale.  The  road  from  Linlithgow  to  Whitburn  runs 
through  the  village,  and  it  is  also  situated  on  the  road 
between  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow,  from  which  cities  it  is 
nearly  equidistant ;  the  population  is  employed  in  agri- 
culture, and  in  the  mines  and  quarries  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood. 

ARNGASK,  a  parish,  in  the  counties  of  Fife,  Kin- 
ross, and  Perth,  6  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Kinross  ; 
containing,  with  the  villages  of  Damhead  and  Duncrivie, 
750  inhabitants.  This  parish  constitutes  a  portion  of  the 
Ochil  hills,  and  is  situated  around  the  junction  of  the 
counties  of  Perth,  Fife,  and  Kinross,  at  Damhead.  It  is 
nearly  of  a  circular  figure,  and  extends  in  length  four 
miles  from  east  to  west,  and  about  three  from  north  to 
south,  comprising  61 16  acres,  of  which  4590  are  ara- 
ble, 1291  uncultivated,  and  the  remainder  plantations, 
formed  chiefly  within  the  last  thirty  years.  The  surface 
is  in  general  hilly,  consisting  of  numerous  undulations 
and  smooth  round  eminences  varying  from  600  to  800 
feet  in  height  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Some  are  pic- 
turesque and  well-wooded,  and  among  the  many  points 
commanding  extensive  and  interesting  views,  that  of 
Cairn-Geddes,  a  part  of  the  lands  of  Fordel,  is  especially 
worthy  of  notice,  as  affording  a  diversified  and  magnifi- 
cent prospect,  embracing  the  Frith  of  Tay,  the  Carse  of 
Gowrie,  the  Sidlaw  hills,  the  upper  portion  of  Strathearn, 
and  a  large  section  of  the  Grampians.  The  Farg,  a  fine 
trout-stream  much  frequented  by  anglers,  rising  near 
the  western  boundary,  separates  the  parish,  for  more 
than  a  mile,  from  that  of  Forgandenny,  and  divides,  in 
its  onward  course  till  it  reaches  Damhead,  the  counties 
of  Perth  and  Kinross,  after  which  it  runs  between  the 
counties  of  Perth  and  Fife,  till  it  departs  from  this  loca- 
lity, in  about  the  centre  of  the  celebrated  and  romantic 
glen  to  which  it  gives  its  name. 

The  uncultivated  part  of  the  lands  contains  large 
tracts  of  a  moorish  or  heathy  soil  ;  but  the  soil  which 
prevails  in  other  portions  is  mostly  a  good  black  loamy 
earth,  partially  formed  from  the  decomposition  of  the 
trap  or  whinstone  rocks,  and,  though  light  and  shallow 
in  some  places,  is  generally  rich,  and  produces  abun- 
dant crops,  consisting  of  the  ordinary  sorts  of  grain, 
including  wheat,  and  peas,  potatoes,  turnips,  and  grass 
for  hay.  In  consequence  of  the  introduction  of  bone 
manure,  turnip  husbandry  has,  within  these  few  years, 
been  greatly  extended,  the  root  being  eaten  off  the 
ground  by  the  sheep,  to  the  decided  advantage  of  the 
soil.  The  parish  contains  four  mills  for  grinding  corn, 
and  twenty-two  for  threshing,  twenty  of  which  are 
worked  by  horses,  one  by  steam,  and  the  other  by  water. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4394,  of 
which  £1909  are  for  the  Fife  portion,  £1344  for  the 
Kinross    portion,    and  £1141    for   that   in   Perthshire. 


ARRO 


A  R  RO 


Duncrivie  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  southern  extre- 
mity of  the  parish ;  and  Damhead  lies  in  the  vale 
through  which  passes  the  great  north  road  from  Edin- 
burgh to  Aberdeen,  and  has  a  post-office,  established  in 
1838,  in  connexion  with  Kinross  on  the  south,  and 
Bridge  of  Earn  on  the  north.  About  eight  hand-looms 
are  in  operation,  and  there  is  a  saw- mill,  worked  by 
water.  Cattle-fairs  are  held  at  Damhead  on  the  last 
Tuesday  in  April  (O.  S.),  the  first  Thursday  in  August, 
and  the  first  Tuesday  in  October;  there  is  also  a  cattle- 
market,  held  from  time  immemorial,  at  Lustielaw  on 
the  third  Tuesday  in  May  (O.  S.).  The  parish  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Perth  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling, 
and  in  the  joint  patronage  of  Mrs.  Wardlaw  and  Robert 
Low,  Esq.;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £1*8.  19.  10., 
with  a  manse  and  offices,  built  in  1829,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £9.  13.  4.  per  annum.  The  church,  pleasantly 
and  conveniently  situated,  is  a  plain  substantial  edifice, 
built  in  1S06,  and  contained,  previously  to  1821,  240 
sittings,  at  which  period  140  additional  sittings  were 
obtained,  by  the  erection  of  galleries.  The  parochial 
school  affords  instruction  in  Latin  and  Greek,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  usual  branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34,  including  allowance  for  garden,  besides  £26  fees. 

ARNPRIOR,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Kippen, 
county  of  Perth  ;  containing  96  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  to  the  south  of  the  river  Forth,  and  had  an- 
ciently a  castle,  of  which  the  remains  may  be  traced. 

ARNTULLY,  county  of  Perth. — See  Airntully. 

ARNYFOUL,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Glammis, 
county  of  Forfar  ;   containing  73  inhabitants. 

ARRAN,  an  island,  in  the  county  of  Bute  ;  com- 
prising the  parishes  of  Kilbride  and  Kilmory,  and  con- 
taining 6241  inhabitants.  This  island,  called  Glotta 
Astuarium  by  the  Romans,  is  situated  in  the  Frith  of 
Clyde,  between  the  coast  of  Ayrshire,  which  is  on  the 
east,  distant  about  thirteen  miles,  and  Cantyre,  in  Ar- 
gyllshire, lying  to  the  west,  and  distant  about  six  miles. 
It  is  of  an  oval  form,  indented  by  bays,  and  thirty  miles 
in  length,  and  fifteen  in  its  greatest  breadth ;  the  sur- 
face throughout  is  rugged  and  mountainous,  and  inter- 
sected with  mossy  glens,  whence  streams,  flowing  from 
the  heights,  make  their  course  to  the  sea.  There  are 
several  safe  and  commodious  harbours,  of  which  that  of 
Lamlash,  on  the  east  side,  will  afford  good  anchorage  to 
several  hundred  vessels  ;  and  the  Cock  of  Arran,  on  the 
northern  extremity,  is  a  well-known  landmark.  The 
higher  parts  of  the  island  are  rocky  and  sterile,  and 
generally  covered  with  fern  and  heath,  but  in  the  valleys, 
and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lakes,  which  are  five  in  number, 
the  soil  is  moderately  fertile,  though  not  well  cultivated. 
Coal  and  limestone  are  said  to  exist ;  freestone,  iron- 
stone, and  marble  are  abundant,  and  jasper  has  been 
found  on  Goat-Fell,  a  hill  above  3000  feet  in  height. 
There  are  several  cairns,  and  some  remains  of  Druidical 
edifices,  many  ruins  of  ancient  fortresses,  and  some 
natural  caves,  remarkable  for  their  great  extent ;  and 
various  places  exhibit  marks  of  volcanic  fire.  Arran  is 
the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Hamilton,  and  gives  the 
title  of  Earl  to  his  grace,  who  has  an  ancient  seat  here, 
called  Brodick  Castle. — See  Kilbride,  and  Kilmory. 

ARROCHAR,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dumbar- 
ton, 22  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Dumbarton,  and  22 
(E.  S.  E.)  from  Inverary;  containing  580  inhabitants. 
The  name  of  this  place,  which,  at  different  times,  has 
71 


been  variously  spelt,  is  derived  from  a  Gaelic  term  sig- 
nifying "high,''  or  "  hilly,"  in  reference  to  the  nature  of 
the  ground.  The  parish  is  remarkable  for  the  magnifi- 
cence of  its  scenery,  and  is  much  resorted  to  by  tourists 
on  account  of  the  peculiar  and  numerous  attractions 
which  it  presents,  as  well  as  from  the  excellence  of  the 
inns,  the  good  order  of  the  roads,  and  other  advantages. 
It  was  disjoined  from  the  parish  of  Luss  in  1658  ;  it  is 
about  15  miles  long,  and  3  broad,  and  contains  31,000 
acres,  including  two  farms  named  Ardleish  and  Doune, 
which  lie  on  the  east  side  of  Loch  Lomond,  and  oc- 
cupy the  north-eastern  extremity  of  the  parish,  almost 
separated  from  the  main  portion  by  the  lake.  The 
parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parish  of 
Strathfillan,  in  Perthshire ;  on  the  south,  by  the  water 
of  Douglas,  and  part  of  Luss  ;  on  the  east,  by  Loch 
Lomond  ;  and  on  the  west,  by  Loch  Long,  and  part  of 
Argyllshire.  The  surface  is  altogether  hilly  and 
mountainous,  and  has  a  line  of  coast  bounding  Loch 
Lomond,  of  about  14  miles,  and  a  coast  of  three 
miles  extending  along  Loch  Long  ;  on  the  Lomond  side, 
the  shore  is  fiat  and  sandy,  and  diversified  by  numerous 
bays  and  headlands.  The  mountain  of  Ben-Vorlich, 
clothed  with  rich  pasture,  is  the  most  elevated  in  the 
parish,  rising  3000  feet  above  the  sea ;  and  this  spot  is 
frequented  by  white  hares,  ptarmigan,  and  various  wild 
fowls.  There  are  some  beautiful  cascades,  and  four 
rivers,  none  of  which  are  of  large  extent ;  viz.,  the 
Falloch,  the  Inveruglass,  the  Douglas,  and  the  Linnhe, 
the  three  first  of  which  run  into  Loch  Lomond,  and  the 
last  into  Loch  Long.  Loch  Lomond,  which  is  24 
miles  long,  in  some  parts  7  broad,  and  varies  in  depth 
from  60  to  100  fathoms,  abounds  with  bold  and  ro- 
mantic scenery,  and  is  considered  the  finest  sheet  of 
water  throughout  the  country ;  it  contains  salmon, 
trout,  pike,  perch,  eels,  and  powans,  generally  called 
fresh-water  herrings.  Loch  Long  is  about  21  miles  in 
length,  and  1^  or  2  in  breadth,  and  its  depth  is  from  10 
to  20  fathoms  ;  the  fish  found  in  it  are,  halibut,  soles, 
flounders,  whitings,  skate,  lythe,  sethe,  cod,  salmon, 
trout,  herrings,  &c.  Its  banks,  in  some  parts,  exhibit 
fine  picturesque  breaks,  especially  at  the  opening  of 
Loch  Goil,  and  towards  its  head,  the  scenery  is  equal  to 
any  part  of  Lomond.  The  soil,  except  in  some  dis- 
tricts, is  thin  and  poor,  and  only  about  300  or  400  acres 
are  arable ;  a  considerable  number  of  acres  are  under 
wood,  and  on  the  shores  of  Loch  Lomond,  are  large 
plantations  of  oak,  which  are  annually  thinned ;  the 
remaining  land  consists  of  indifferent  pasture.  The 
sheep  are  the  black-faced,  and  the  cattle  comprise  both 
the  native  breed  and  those  introduced  from  Argyllshire  ; 
some  waste,  to  the  extent  of  about  50  acres,  has  been 
reclaimed  within  these  few  years,  but  the  inclosures  and 
farm-buildings  generally  are  in  an  indifferent  state.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3096.  The 
rocks  consist,  for  the  most  part,  of  mica  slate  ;  in  some 
parts,  are  traces  of  iron-ore,  and  there  are  two  whin- 
stone  quarries  near  the  whinstone  dyke  between  Lochs 
Lomond  and  Long. 

The  parish  contains  two  small  villages,  in  addition  to 
which,  within  the  last  few  years,  a  considerable  number 
of  houses  have  been  erected,  for  sea-bathing  visiters;  and 
among  the  inns  is  one  which  ranks  as  one  of  the  most 
commodious  and  excellent  in  Scotland,  and  which  was, 
before  being  converted  to  its  present  use,  the  mansion  of 


ASHK 


ASSY 


the  chief  of  the  Macfarlane  clan.  During  the  summer 
months,  a  coach  runs  daily  from  Inverary  to  Tarbet,  in 
the  morning,  and  returns  in  the  afternoon  ■  and  vehi- 
cles of  every  description  may  be  obtained  at  the  inns  of 
Tarbet  and  Arrochar,  whither  visiters  come  from  all  parts, 
to  view  the  scenery  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  lakes. 
Steam-boats  run  on  Lochs  Lomond  and  Long,  from 
May  till  October ;  another  plies  between  Arrochar  and 
Glasgow ;  and  ships  with  coal  and  lime  from  Glasgow 
and  Ireland,  frequently  come  to  the  head  of  Loch  Long, 
whence,  also,  wool  is  often  sent  to  the  market  at  Liver- 
pool. A  herring-fishery  is  carried  on  in  Loch  Long, 
with  considerable  profit,  during  the  months  of  June  and 
July,  the  boats  employed  advancing  successively  to 
Loch  Fine  and  the  neighbourhood  of  Campbelltown, 
where  they  fish  to  the  end  of  the  season  ;  each  boat 
contains  about  three  men,  and  produces,  in  the  season, 
from  £30  to  £60.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject 
to  the  presbytery  of  Dumbarton  and  synod  of  Glasgow 
and  Ayr ;  the  patronage  belongs  to  Sir  James  Colqu- 
houu,  Bart.,  and  the  minister's  stipend  is  £241,  with  a 
glebe  worth  £13  a  year,  and  a  manse,  erected  in  1S37. 
The  church,  situated  in  a  corner  of  the  parish,  was 
built  in  1733,  and  is  in  indifferent  repair,  and  of  insuffi- 
cient size,  containing  only  300  sittings.  A  place  of 
worship  has  been  erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free 
Church.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  the 
ordinary  branches  of  education  are  taught,  and  of  which 
the  master  has  the  maximum  salary  of  £34.  4.,  with 
£8  fees,  and  a  house ;  and  another  school,  privately 
endowed,  affords  instruction  in  the  classics,  mathe- 
matics, and  the  other  usual  subjects,  by  a  master  who 
receives  £25  from  the  resident  proprietor  of  land,  and 
about  £15  or  £20  fees. 

ARTHURLEE,  CROSS,  a  village,  in  the  quoad 
sacra  parish  of  Barrhead,  parish  of  Neilston,  Upper 
ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew  ;  containing  663  in- 
habitants. This  place  owes  its  origin  to  the  establish- 
ment of  a  bleachfield  in  its  vicinity,  by  a  gentleman 
named  Adair,  about  the  year  1773;  it  was  chosen  by 
him  as  a  most  suitable  situation  for  works  of  this  nature, 
and  his  example  having  been  followed  by  others,  the 
neighbourhood  has  since  become  a  considerable  bleach- 
ing district.  The  village  is  situated  in  the  north-eastern 
part  of  the  parish,  and  not  far  distant  from  Barrhead. 

ARTHURLEE,  WEST,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Neilston,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  ^  a 
mile  (VV.)  from  Barrhead;  containing  441  inhabitants. 
This  village,  which  is  situated  a  little  to  the  west  of  the 
road  between  Neilston  and  Barrhead,  owes  its  origin 
to  the  introduction  of  the  cotton  manufacture,  and  is 
chiefly  inhabited  by  persons  employed  in  the  bleaching 
and  printing  establishments  connected  with  that  trade. 

ASHK1RK,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county  of  Sel- 
kirk, but  chiefly  in  the  district  of  Hawick,  county  of 
Roxburgh,  6  miles  (S.)  from  Selkirk;  containing  563 
inhabitants.  This  place,  of  which  the  name  is  said  to 
have  been  derived  from  the  great  number  of  ash-trees 
with  which  the  neighbourhood  abounded,  and  of  which 
a  considerable  number  is  still  remaining,  was  formerly 
part  of  the  see  of  Glasgow,'  and  the  occasional  residence 
of  the  bishops,  who  had  a  palace  here,  of  which  some 
vestiges  might  lately  be  traced  in  a  field  retaining  the 
name  of  Palace  Walls.  The  parish  is  about  seven  miles 
in  length,  and   three  miles  and  a  half  in  breadth,  and 


comprises  about  3000  acres  under  cultivation,  400  in 
woods  and  plantations,  and  a  considerable  portion  of 
waste.  The  surface  is  generally  hilly,  with  portions  of 
level  land  in  the  intervals  between  the  hills  and  the 
narrow  valley  of  the  Ale.  The  Ale  has  its  source 
in  the  lakes  of  Alemoor  and  Shaws,  and,  flowing 
through  the  parish,  in  a  direction  from  west  to  east, 
divides  it  into  two  nearly  equal  portions ;  it  abounds 
with  trout  of  excellent  quality,  and  a  few  sea-trout,  and 
small  salmon,  are  occasionally  taken  in  it,  after  floods. 
There  were  formerly  numerous  lakes  in  the  parish,  but, 
from  the  practice  of  draining  the  lands,  many  of  them 
have  disappeared.  The  principal  now  remaining  are, 
Essenside  loch,  covering  about  twenty  acres  of  ground ; 
and  the  Sheilswood  loch,  and  Headshaw  loch,  both  of 
which  are  of  smaller  dimensions.  They  all  abound  with 
perch,  pike,  and  trout ;  and  afford  good  sport  to  the 
angler.  Synton  Moss,  once  a  very  extensive  lake,  has 
been  completely  drained,  for  the  sake  of  obtaining  the 
marl  and  peat  with  which  it  abounded,  and  which  have 
been  successfully  applied  to  the  improvement  of  the 
lands.  In  this  moss,  many  interesting  organic  remains 
are  occasionally  dug  up. 

The  soil  is  generally  light ;  in  some  places  clay, 
mixed  with  gravel,  and  in  others  a  rich  loam  ;  the  chief 
crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips. 
The  system  of  agriculture  is  improved,  and  the  farm- 
houses are  in  general  substantial  and  comfortable ; 
some  few  dairy-farms  are  managed  with  great  attention, 
and  the  butter  produced  here  is  of  excellent  quality. 
Considerable  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  live 
stock,  upon  which  the  main  dependence  is  placed  ;  the 
sheep  are  almost  exclusively  of  the  Cheviot  breed,  with 
occasionally  a  mixture  of  the  Cheviot  and  Leicestershire  ; 
and  the  cattle  are  of  the  short-horned  breed,  which  are 
found  to  be  the  best  adapted  to  the  lands.  A  few 
Highland  cattle  are  pastured  here  during  the  winter. 
There  appears  to  have  been  formerly  a  great  abundance 
of  natural  wood,  but,  at  present,  very  little  ancient  tim- 
ber remains  :  the  plantations  are,  larch,  and  spruce  and 
Scotch  firs,  intermixed  with  oak,  ash,  elm,  and  other 
forest  trees ;  they  are  all  of  modern  formation,  and  are 
in  a  thriving  state.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
Roxburgh  portion  of  the  parish  is  £3483,  and  of  the 
Selkirk  portion,  £1510.  The  substratum  is  chiefly 
greywacke,  of  which  the  hills  are  mainly  composed,  and 
clay-slate.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Selkirk 
and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £205.  12.  9.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued 
at  £28  per  annum ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Minto.  The 
church,  erected  in  1791;  is  a  plain  substantial  edifice, 
and  is  adapted  for  about  200  persons.  A  place  of  wor- 
ship has  been  erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church. 
The  parochial  school  is  attended  by  about  80  children ; 
the  master's  salary  is  £34,  with  £16  fees,  and  a  house 
and  garden.  There  are  remains  of  two  Danish  encamp- 
ments on  the  lands  of  Castleside,  one  of  which  is  in 
good  preservation,  but  the  other  is  almost  obliterated  by 
the  plough.  On  the  lands  of  Salineside  was  formerly  a 
very  strong  tower,  of  which  there  are  scarcely  more 
than  some  slight  vestiges  ;  and  in  various  parts  of  the 
parish,  are  remains  of  ancient  encampments. 

ASSYNT,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Sutherland, 
30  miles  (N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Dornoch ;  containing, 
with  the  quoad  sacra  district  of  Stocr,  and  the  village  of 


ASSY 


ATHE 


Lochinver,  317S  inhabitants.  This  place,  which  is  sup- 
posed to  take  its  name  from  its  irregular  boundary  line, 
the  Gaelic  term,  as  agus  innte,  signifying  "  out  and  in," 
was  once  a  forest  of  the  ancient  thanes  of  Sutherland, 
one  of  whom  gave  it  in  vassalage  to  Mac-Kry-Cul,  who 
held  that  part  of  the  coast  of  Coigach,  afterwards  called 
the  village  of  Ullapool,  as  a  reward  for  his  having  re- 
covered a  great  quantity  of  cattle  that  had  been  carried 
off  from  the  county  of  Sutherland,  by  the  Scandina- 
vians, who  had  also  burnt  the  great  fir  forests  on  this 
and  the  neighbouring  coast.  Mac-Kry-Cul's  family,  by 
the  disasters  of  war,  being  reduced  to  one  heir  female, 
she  was  given  in  marriage  to  a  younger  son  of  McLeod, 
laird  of  Lewis,  with  the  consent  of  the  Thane  of  Suther- 
land, who  made  this  parish  over  to  the  newly-married 
couple,  with  its  superiority,  and  after  this  event,  there 
were  fourteen  successive  lairds  of  the  name  of  McLeod. 
About  1660,  the  parish  and  its  superiority  became  the 
property  of  the  Earl  of  Seaforth,  from  whom  it  passed 
to  a  younger  son  of  his  family,  whose  successors  pos- 
sessed it  for  three  or  four  generations ;  and  it  was 
afterwards  purchased  by  Lady  Strathnaver,  who  pre- 
sented it  to  her  noble  grandson,  William,  Earl  of  Suther- 
land, from  whom  it  has  descended  to  the  present  Duke 
of  Sutherland. 

The  extreme  length  of  the  parish  is  about  36  miles, 
and  its  greatest  breadth  18;  it  contains  97,000  acres. 
It  is  in  the  north-west  part  of  the  county,  and  divided 
on  the  north  from  the  parish  of  Eddrachillis,  in  the  Reay 
country,  by  an  arm  of  the  sea  called  the  Kyle,  and 
is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The 
coast,  which  is  about  20  miles  in  extent,  is  bold,  rocky, 
and  dangerous,  and  has  several  extensive  and  interest- 
ing caves  ;  but  in  some  places,  is  a  fine  sandy  bottom, 
with  safe  landing.  There  are  numerous  islands  attached 
to  the  parish,  some  of  which  are  merely  bare  rocks, 
affording  neither  pasture  nor  shelter ;  the  most  consi- 
derable is  that  of  Oldney,  which  is  about  a  mile  long, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  and  is  used  for  the  pas- 
turage of  sheep  ;  the  other  islands  are,  Crona,  Soya,  and 
Klett.  The  appearance  of  the  district  is  altogether  wild 
and  mountainous,  and  its  scenery  romantic  ;  the  most 
remarkable  heights  are,  Benmore,  Cuniack,  Suilvhen, 
and  Cannisb,  of  which  Benmore,  the  highest  mountain, 
rises  about  3230  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
hills,  also,  are  very  numerous,  and  most  of  them  abound 
with  springs  of  excellent  water.  There  are  several  fine 
lakes,  among  which  that  of  Assynt  is  pre-eminent ;  it  is 
above  seven  miles  long,  and  about  a  mile  broad,  with 
banks  in  most  places  covered  with  brushwood,  and  is  a 
fresh-water  lake,  abounding  in  trout,  and  distinguished 
for  its  striking  and  singularly  picturesque  scenery.  The 
principal  part  of  the  parish  is  employed  in  sheep-farm- 
ing, to  which  much  attention  is  paid  ;  and  the  larger 
part  of  the  population  dwell  along  the  shores,  and  avail 
themselves  of  the  advantages  offered  for  fishing,  from 
which,  together  with  their  small  allotments  of  land,  they 
draw  their  subsistence.  Game  is  plentiful.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £1212.  There  is 
some  sandstone  rock,  but  limestone  is  the  prevailing 
formation,  of  which  an  immense  ridge,  on  the  Stron- 
chrubie  farm,  extends  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  overhang- 
ing the  public  road,  being  mantled,  in  many  places, 
with  ivy,  and  forming  a  covert  for  birds  of  prey. 

The  village  of  Lochinver  has  several  good  houses  and 
Vol.  I.— 73 


shops,  and  near  it  is  a  manufactory  for  preserving 
butcher's  meat,  fish,  and  vegetables,  fresh,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  being  carried  out  to  sea;  there  is  a  post-office 
here,  and  another  near  the  church.  Excellent  roads 
have  been  formed,  extending  forty  miles  in  length,  as 
well  as  numerous  local  roads  for  parochial  use ;  at 
Lochinver  is  a  small  harbour  with  a  pier,  and  several 
creeks  afford  shelter  and  anchorage.  There  are  two 
small  fisheries,  let  at  a  moderate  rent,  and  one  or  two 
vessels  belong  to  Assynt,  besides  which,  several  come 
in  the  herring  season,  to  fish  on  the  coasts,  and  a  few 
to  take  the  disposable  produce  of  the  parish,  which 
consists  chiefly  of  wool.  An  annual  cattle-fair  has  been 
recently  established  at  Inchnadaff.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Dornoch  and 
synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caithness ;  the  Duke  of 
Sutherland  is  patron,  and  the  stipend  of  the  minister 
is  £158.  6.  8.,  with  a  glebe  worth  about  £35.  10.  per 
annum,  and  a  manse.  The  church,  a  small  building, 
seating  about  2S0  persons,  is  inconveniently  situated  at 
a  distance  of  nine  miles  from  the  southern  boundary  of 
the  parish,  the  great  bulk  of  the  population  residing  at 
distances  varying  from  12  to  IS  miles;  it  was  built 
about  60  years  since,  and  has  been  extensively  repaired. 
There  are  two  preaching  stations,  the  one  at  Lochinver, 
fourteen  miles  from  the  church,  and  the  other  at  Kyle 
side,  nearly  the  same  distance,  tire  services  of  which  are 
performed  by  the  parochial  minister ;  at  Stoer,  is  a 
government  church,  built,  in  1S29.  A  place  of  worship 
has  been  erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church. 
The  parish  has  a  parochial  school,  of  which  the  master 
receives  a  salary  of  £34  ;  and  several  other  schools  are 
supported  by  general  societies  for  promoting  education. 
Among  the  antiquities  are,  Ardvrack  Castle,  built  by 
the  Mc  Leods,  about  the  year  1590,  and  now  in  ruins; 
Calda  House,  erected  by  the  Mc  Kenzies ;  and  a  large 
Druidical  temple. 

ATHELSTANEFORD,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Haddington,  3  miles  (N.  E.  by  N.)  from  Haddington, 
and  9  (W.)  from  Dunbar;  containing  991  inhabitants, 
of  whom  27-1  are  in  the  village.  This  place,  which  is 
noticed  by  Camden,  is  said  to  have  derived  its  name 
from  Athelstan,  an  English  warrior,  who  was  killed  in 
battle,  together  with  the  greater  number  of  his  forces, 
about  the  commencement  of  the  ninth  century,  and  was 
interred  here.  The  parish  is  about  four  miles  in  length, 
and  three  in  breadth,  and  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
streamlet  called  the  Peffer ;  the  surface  is  abruptly  ir- 
regular, consisting  of  large  tracts  of  low  land,  and  ele- 
vated ridges  of  rock,  in  some  places  sloping  gently 
towards  the  plain,  and  in  others  forming  a  nearly  hori- 
zontal level  of  considerable  height.  The  scenery  is 
greatly  diversified,  affording,  in  parts,  a  striking  con- 
trast of  richly  cultivated  fields  and  barren  and  rugged 
rocks  ;  and  from  the  higher  grounds  are  obtained  ex- 
tensive and  interesting  views  of  the  Frith  of  Forth, 
the  Bass  rock,  and  the  county  of  Fife.  The  lands  are 
watered  by  two  streams,  of  which  that  called  the  Peffer 
rises  in  a  meadow  in  the  lowlands,  and  joins  the  sea 
below  Tynninghame  bay ;  and  the  other,  flowing  west- 
ward, after  a  course  of  five  miles,  falls  into  the  sea  at 
Aberlady  bay.  The  channel  of  the  Peffer  was  widened, 
and  made  deeper,  some  years  since,  on  which  occasion 
several  stags'  horns  were  found,  at  a  depth  of  nearly 
three  feet  below  the  surface  of  its  bed,  and  large  oaks 

L 


AT  H  E 


AUCH 


were  discovered  imbedded  in  moss  on  the  banks,  which, 
previously  to  the  practice  of  draining  the  lands,  were 
nearly  covered  with  the  water  that  stagnated  on  the 
adjoining  woodlands.  The  number  of  acres  in  the  pa- 
rish has  been  estimated  at  more  than  4000,  of  which 
nearly  3800  are  arable,  and  the  remainder,  with  the 
exception  of  about  50  acres  of  hilly  pasture,  are  in 
woods  and  plantations.  The  soil  has  been  much  im- 
proved by  draining,  and  great  quantities  of  marshy  and 
previously  unprofitable  land  have  been  rendered  fertile ; 
the  chief  crops  are,  wheat,  for  which  the  soil  is  ex- 
tremely favourable,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ; 
a  considerable  number  of  sheep  are  reared,  and  fed  prin- 
cipally on  turnips.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £7996.  The  substrata  are  mostly  whinstone 
and  porphyry,  of  which  the  rocks  consist ;  coal  is  sup- 
posed to  exist,  but  it  lies  at  so  great  a  depth  from  the 
surface  that  none  has  yet  been  discovered  ;  some  beau- 
tiful specimens  of  rock  crystal  are  found  in  the  quar- 
ries, which  are  wrought  for  building  purposes,  and  for 
the  roads.  Gilmerton  is  a  spacious  and  splendid  seat: 
the  only  other  residence  of  note  in  the  parish,  is  an 
ancient  baronial  mansion,  formerly  belonging  to  the 
earls  of  Wiuton,  a  quadrilateral  building,  of  which  a 
small  part  only  is  now  inhabited,  and  the  remainder  is 
in  ruins  ;  the  principal  room  is  still  preserved,  and  at- 
tached to  the  house  are  a  large  garden  and  a  bowling- 
green. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  the  presbytery  of  Haddington  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale ;  Sir  David  Kinloch,  Bart.,  is 
patron,  and  the  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £262.  0.  7- ; 
the  manse  is  a  comfortable  residence,  and  the  glebe 
comprises  5  acres,  valued  at  £15  per  annum.  The  old 
church,  which  belonged  to  the  monastery  founded  at 
Haddington,  by  Ada,  Countess  of  Northumberland, 
mother  of  Malcolm  IV.,  was  used  till  the  year  1780, 
when,  falling  into  a  dilapidated  state,  the  present  church 
was  erected,  in  a  more  convenient  situation,  for  a  con- 
gregation of  500  persons.  The  parochial  school  affords 
education  to  about  eighty  scholars  ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £35.  10.,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the 
fees  are  £48  ;  the  schoolroom  is  one  of  the  best  in  the 
county.  On  the  spot  where  Athelstan  is  said  to  have 
been  buried,  a  stone  coffin  was  found,  by  some  men  who 
were  quarrying  stone  for  mending  the  roads,  a  few  years 
since ;  the  coffin,  consisting  of  five  stones  cemented 
together,  was  lodged  in  the  rock,  which  had  been  exca- 
vated for  its  reception,  about  two  feet  below  the  surface, 
and  contained  a  human  skeleton,  in  a  state  of  almost 
total  decomposition.  The  lands  on  which  the  battle  of 
Athelstaneford  was  fought,  were  anciently  given  by  the 
king  of  Scotland  to  the  Culdee  priory  of  St.  Andrew's, 
in  acknowledgment  of  the  victory  obtained ;  and  at  the 
Revolution,  they  were  bestowed  upon  the  royal  chapel 
of  Holyrood  House.  On  the  lands  constituting  the 
barony  of  Drem,  are  the  remains  of  a  Pictish  town,  con- 
sisting of  various  houses  built  round  the  brow  of  a  low 
hill  of  conical  form,  which  had  been  strongly  fortified 
by  three  tiers  of  ramparts,  with  a  deep  circumvallation 
below  ■  these  works  are  supposed  to  have  been  thrown 
up  as  a  defence  against  the  Romans,  who  had  a  station 
about  half  a  mile  distant,  on  the  alleged  site  of  which, 
various  Roman  relics  have  been  found,  including  an 
urn  of  superior  workmanship,  containing  burnt  bones. 
74 


There  are  some  remains  of  the  ancient  church,  built  in 
the  early  part  of  the  12th  century,  by  Ada,  and  in  which 
service  was  originally  performed  by  the  monks  of  Had- 
dington. Among  the  eminent  men  of  the  place,  has 
been  the  Rev.  Robert  Blair,  author  of  The  Grave,  who 
was,  for  fifteen  years,  incumbent,  and  was  interred  in 
the  churchyard,  in  which  a  monument  was  erected  to 
his  memory ;  his  son,  the  late  Robert  Blair,  lord  presi- 
dent of  the  court  of  session,  was  born  here,  during  the 
incumbency  of  his  father.  John  Home,  author  of  the 
tragedy  of  Douglas,  was  incumbent  after  the  death  of 
the  Rev.  Robert  Blair ;  and  Archibald  Skirving,  an 
eminent  portrait  painter,  who,  having  perfected  himself 
in  the  study  of  his  profession  at  Rome,  exercised  it  here 
for  many  years,  with  great  success,  was  also  a  native  of 
the  parish. 

AUCHANDRYNE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Brae- 
mar  and  Crathie,  district  of  Kincardine  O'Neil, 
county  of  Aberdeen  ;    containing  174  inhabitants. 

AUCHINBLAE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  For- 
doun,  county  of  Kincardine,  5  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from 
Laurencekirk;  containing  643  inhabitants.  This  place,  of 
which  the  name  signifies  "the  field  of  blossoms,"  is  situ- 
ated on  the  banks  of  the  Luther  water,  and  on  the  side 
of  a  fine  valley,  gently  sloping  to  the  south.  It  contains 
several  well-built  houses,  and  has  risen  into  considera- 
tion within  the  last  half  century,  the  population  finding 
employment  from  the  increase  of  the  trade  and  manu- 
factures, the  principal  of  which  latter  are  yarn  and 
brown  linen.  Fairs  are  held  in  the  village  in  April  and 
May,  and,  during  the  winter  portion  of  the  year,  mar- 
kets on  every  Friday,  for  the  sale  of  cattle  and  grain. 
A  daily  post  passes  through,  on  its  route  between  Stone- 
haven and  Montrose. 

AUCHINCAIRN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Rer- 
rick,  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  7  miles  (E.)  from 
Kirkcudbright;  containing  373  inhabitants.  It  is  seated 
at  the  north-western  extremity  of  the  fine  bay  of  Auch- 
incairn,  or  Balcarry,  which  is  about  two  miles  in  length, 
and  one  in  breadth.  The  bay  has  a  beach  of  smooth 
and  firm  sand,  and  small  vessels  may  load  and  unload 
on  any  part  of  it ;  on  the  west  side,  is  a  large  natural 
basin,  where  ships  of  burthen  find  safe  anchorage  in  the 
most  stormy  weather,  and  at  every  point  of  the  wind. 
A  penny-post  is  established  here,  under  the  Castle- 
Douglas  office.  In  the  village  is  one  of  the  parochial 
schools,  and  children  are  also  taught  in  a  Baptist  place 
of  worship. 

AUCHINCRAW,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cold- 
ingham,  county  of  Berwick,  2  miles  (N.  W.)  from 
Ayton  ;  containing  203  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at 
the  boundary  of  the  parish  ;  and  upon  the  height  called 
Warlaw,  to  the  westward,  is  a  camp  of  oval  form,  cover- 
ing an  area  of  five  or  six  acres  of  very  poor  moorland, 
but  respecting  which  both  history  and  tradition  are 
silent.  In  the  village,  is  a  school  connected  with  the 
Burgher  dissenting  synod. 

AUCHINDOIR  and  KEARN,  a  parish,  in  the  district 
of  Alford,  county  of  Aberdeen,  36  miles  (W.  N.  W.) 
from  Aberdeen;  containing  1188  inhabitants.  The 
name  of  Auchindoir,  which  is  of  Gaelic  origin,  and  sig- 
nifies "  the  field  of  pursuit,"  is  supposed  to  have  been 
applied,  in  the  present  case,  from  the  circumstance  of 
Luthlac,  son  of  Macbeth,  having  been  pursued  through 
the  valley  of  Auchindoir  to  that  of  Bogie,  where  he  was 


AUCH 


A  U  C  H 


overtaken  and  slain  by  Malcolm  ;  and  the  term  Kearn 
is  said  to  be  a  corruption  of  Cairn,  there  being  a  remark- 
able cairn  or  tumulus  in  that  district,  of  the  history 
of  which  nothing,  however,  is  known.  The  two  parishes 
were  united  in  1811,  previously  to  which  Kearn  was 
joined  to  Forbes.  The  length  of  the  habitable  part  is 
about  seven  miles,  and  the  breadth  nearly  the  same,  and 
the  parishes,  together,  contain  about  15,600  acres 
under  cultivation,  and  "2100  under  plantation  and  natu- 
ral wood,  besides  pasture  and  waste.  The  surface  is 
varied  and  irregular,  and  consists  of  numerous  hills 
and  pleasing  valleys,  ridges,  and  mountains,  some  of 
which  are  covered  with  wood,  and  have  a  considerable 
elevation  ;  Correen,  in  the  southern  quarter,  being  about 
1350,  and  the  Buck  of  the  Cabrach,  in  the  west,  2377 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  climate  in  the  higher  parts  is 
cold  and  bleak,  exposed  to  severe  frosts  and  heavy  falls 
of  snow,  but  in  the  lower  and  more  sheltered  places,  it 
is  temperate  and  salubrious.  The  river  Bogie,  which  is 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Craig  and  Corchinan 
burns,  after  pursuing  a  serpentine  course  of  about  eleven 
miles,  through  a  fine  valley,  joins  the  Doveran  at 
Huntly ;  it  is  plentifully  supplied  with  fine  trout.  The 
Don  runs,  for  about  two  miles,  on  the  south-eastern 
boundary  ;  and  the  small  stream  of  Mossat.  divides  the 
parish  from  Kildrummy,  on  the  south. 

The  soil  presents  a  considerable  variety,  consisting 
in  some  parts  of  a  rich  alluvial  loam,  and  in  other  places 
of  clay,  with  a  large  proportion  of  sand  and  pebbles  ; 
in  the  lower  grounds,  it  is,  in  general,  sharp,  dry,  and 
fertile,  but  towards  the  hills,  mossy  and  poor.  The 
quantity  of  arable  land  is  on  the  increase,  much  barren 
land  having  been  reclaimed,  and  the  method  of  cultiva- 
tion has  recently  been  considerably  improved ;  the 
houses  and  cottages,  also,  are  in  a  much  better  condition 
than  they  were  thirty  years  since.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £3600.  The  plantations  are 
numerous  and  extensive,  and  comprise  trees  of  all  the 
kinds  usually  reared ;  sandstone  of  excellent  quality  is 
found,  as  well  as  limestone,  and  whinstone  is  also  in 
great  abundance.  There  are  two  gentlemen's  seats, 
Craig  and  Druminnor,  both  of  which  are  of  considerable 
antiquity,  the  former  bearing  the  date  15 IS,  and  the 
latter,  which  was  once  the  chief  seat  of  the  Forbes 
family,  that  of  the  year  1577.  Near  the  castle  of  Craig, 
is  the  "  Den,"  a  celebrated  spot  in  this  part  of  the 
country,  and  much  resorted  to  by  tourists  as  an  object 
of  curiosity,  surrounded  by  scenery  of  a  varied  and 
beautifid  description.  The  only  village  is  Lumsden, 
which  is  of  recent  growth,  and  contains  about  300  per- 
sons, chiefly  traders  and  handicraftsmen  ;  but  the  main 
population  of  the  parish  is  agricultural,  being  em- 
ployed in  the  rural  districts  in  cultivating  the  land,  and 
in  rearing  cattle,  for  the  sale  of  which  four  markets 
are  held  during  the  year.  Here  is  a  post-office.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of 
Alford  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  Earl  of  Fife  is 
patron.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £158,  part  of  which 
is  received  from  the  exchequer  ;  there  is  a  manse,  erected 
in  1843,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at  £10  a  year.  The 
church,  which  was  built  in  1811,  accommodates  450 
persons,  but  is  much  too  small  for  the  population.  At 
Lumsden,  is  a  place  of  worship  belonging  to  the  United 
Associate  Synod ;  a  place  of  worship  has  been  erected 
in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church,  and  there  is  a  paro- 
75 


chial  school,  of  which  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £30, 
about  £20  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  The  moat  or 
mount  on  which  the  ancient  Castrum  Auchindoria?,  men- 
tioned by  Boethius,  seems  to  have  stood,  is  shown  in 
the  parish  ;  and  another  most  interesting  relic  of  anti- 
quity, situated  near  it,  is  the  old  parochial  church,  which 
is  now  a  venerable  ruin,  attracting  attention  from  its 
ivy-mantled  walls,  its  fine  Saxon  gateway,  and  its 
inscriptions  and  sculpture. 

AUCHINEARN,  OLD  and  NEW,  a  village,  in  the 
parish  of  Cadder,  Lower  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ; 
containing  561  inhabitants,  chiefly  employed  in  agri- 
culture. A  library  has  been  very  recently  established 
in  the  village,  in  which,  also,  is  situated  one  of  the 
parochial  schools,  endowed  with  1000  merks,  by  the 
late  Rev.  James  Warden.  In  1764,  Dr.  William  Leech- 
man,  principal  of  the  university  of  Glasgow,  and  then 
proprietor  of  this  estate,  gave,  in  trust  to  the  Kirk 
Session,  a  schoolroom  and  house  for  a  teacher,  with  a 
small  portion  of  land,  on  condition  that  they  should 
appoint  a  master.  The  school-house  was  handsomely 
rebuilt  in  1826,  by  the  late  Charles  Stirling,  Esq., 
assisted  by  Archibald  Lamont,  Esq.,  and  other  heri- 
tors. 

AUCHINLECK,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kyle, 
county  of  Ayr,  l-§  mile  (N.  W.)  from  Old  Cumnock; 
containing  1659  inhabitants,  of  whom  about  600  are 
in  the  village.  This  place,  of  which  the  Celtic  name  is 
descriptive  of  its  abounding  with  stone,  is  supposed  to 
be  of  considerable  antiquity  ;  but  little  of  its  history  is 
known,  prior  to  the  commencement  of  the  18th  century, 
when  the  manor,  which  belonged  to  a  family  of  the 
same  name,  becoming  forfeited  to  the  crown,  was 
granted  by  James  IV.  to  Thomas  Boswell,  a  branch  of 
an  ancient  family  in  the  county  of  Fife,  ancestor  of  the 
biographer  of  Dr.  Johnson,  and  who  was  killed  at  the 
battle  of  Flodden-field.  The  parish  is  about  sixteen 
miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  and  not  more  than 
two  miles  in  average  breadth,  and  comprises  about 
19,000  acres,  of  which  5000  are  arable,  300  woodland 
and  plantations,  and  13,000  natural  pasture  and  waste. 
The  surface  is  generally  elevated ;  and  towards  the  east, 
the  hills  rise  to  a  height  of  upwards  of  1000  feet,  and 
are  bleak  and  sterile.  A  moss  several  miles  in  length, 
called  Aird's  Moss,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish, 
gives  it  a  barren  appearance ;  the  vale  of  Glenmore, 
also,  of  considerable  extent,  and  in  a  state  of  nature, 
presents  features  of  wild  aspect;  but  the  western  portion 
of  the  parish,  being  wholly  in  cultivation,  has  an  air  of 
cheerfulness  and  fertility.  The  river  Ayr,  for  a  small 
space,  forms  a  boundary  between  this  parish  and  that  of 
Muirkirk,  and  pursues  its  winding  course  into  the  parish 
of  Sorn  ;  aud  the  Lugar,  another  river,  separates  Auchin- 
leck,  for  about  five  miles,  from  Cumnock,  and,  for  about 
two  miles,  from  the  parish  of  Ochiltree,  and  flows  into 
the  river  Ayr  about  a  mile  below  this  place,  near  the 
town  of  Mauchline. 

The  soil  is  various,  generally  a  stiff  retentive  clay, 
but  by  draining  and  good  management,  has,  in  many 
parts,  been  rendered  productive ;  the  chief  crops  are, 
oats,  potatoes,  beans,  and  turnips,  and  there  are  a  few 
acres  of  bear,  barley,  and  wheat.  Some  progress  has  been 
made  in  furrow-draining  ;  and  a  portion  of  the  mossy 
land  has  been  reclaimed,  and  brought  into  cultivation. 
The  principal  reliance  of  the  farmers  is  on  the  dairy, 

L2 


A  U  C  H 


A  U  C  H 


and  a  large  number  of  milch  cows,  mostly  of  the  Ayr- 
shire  breed,  are  kept,  and  a  great  many  young  cattle 
are  reared  ;  the  milk  is  chiefly  made  into  cheese  of  the 
Dunlop  kind,  and  sent  to  the  markets  of  Glasgow  and 
other  towns.  A  considerable  number  of  sheep  are  also 
fed,  of  the  black-faced  breed.  The  woods  contain  many 
fine  specimens  of  stately  timber  of  ancient  growth,  and 
the  plantations  are  in  general  thriving  and  ornamental. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £7497-  The 
substrata  are,  limestone,  coal,  ironstone,  sandstone,  and 
freestone  of  various  sorts  :  the  limestone  and  coal  have 
been  long  extensively  wrought,  and  of  the  former,  there 
are  two  quarries,  one  on  the  lands  of  Auchinleck,  pro- 
ducing annually  about  50,000  bushels  of  excellent  qua- 
lity, and  one  at  Dalblair,  yielding  also  a  fair  quantity. 
There  is,  near  these,  an  inferior  kind  of  coal,  which  is 
used  for  the  burning  of  lime.  Coal-pits  have  also  been 
opened  on  the  lands  of  Mr.  Alexander,  of  Ballochmyle, 
on  which,  as  well  as  on  the  Auchinleck  property, 
steam-engines  have  been  erected  ;  the  seams  of  coal 
vary  in  thickness,  and  in  the  depth  at  which  they  are 
found  from  the  surface,  and  the  average  annual  produce 
is  about  S500  tons.  Freestone  is  quarried  on  the  banks 
of  the  Lugar,  and  is  much  esteemed  for  millstones  ;  and 
at  Wallacetown,  is  found  a  stone  which  is  fire-proof. 
The  present  house  of  Auchinleck  is  a  handsome  mansion 
in  the  Grecian  style,  erected  by  Lord  Auchinleck,  and  is 
situated  in  a  diversified  demesne,  comprehending  much 
beautiful  scenery,  richly  wooded. 

The  village  is  on  the  road  from  Glasgow  to  Carlisle, 
by  Kilmarnock  :  many  of  the  inhabitants  are  employed 
in  weaving,  for  the  manufacturers  of  Paisley  and  Glas- 
gow ;  the  principal  articles  are  light  silks  and  muslins. 
Some  females  are  also  employed  in  flowering  muslins,  in 
a  variety  of  patterns,  for  which  this  neighbourhood  is 
celebrated.  The  manufacture  of  snuff-boxes  is  carried 
on  to  a  considerable  extent  ;  it  was  introduced  into  this 
place  from  Cumnock,  and  the  workmen  here  manufac- 
ture card  and  needle  cases,  and  ornamental  boxes  of 
various  descriptions.  The  wood  used  for  this  purpose 
is  plane-tree,  and  many  of  the  specimens  are  painted  in 
devices,  tartan  plaiding,  and  other  patterns,  and,  being 
well  varnished,  have  a  very  handsome  appearance.  They 
are  quite  equal,  in  point  of  workmanship,  to  those  made 
at  Laurencekirk,  though  sold  at  an  inferior  price ; 
about  sixty  dozens  are  sometimes  finished  weekly,  and 
sent  off,  chiefly  to  the  London  market,  but  the  demand 
for  them  is  very  fluctuating.  A  fair  is  held  on  the 
last  Tuesday  in  August,  for  lambs,  and  is  numerously 
attended.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage  of  Sir  James 
Boswell,  Bart.;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £161.  1.  11., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £10  per  annum. 
The  old  church  is  an  ancient  edifice,  to  which  an  aisle 
was  added  by  Lord  Auchinleck,  in  1754 ;  and  under- 
neath it,  is  the  burying-place  of  the  Auchinleck  family, 
hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock  A  new  church  has  been 
recently  erected,  near  the  site  of  the  former ;  it  is  a 
substantial  and  handsome  edifice,  adapted  for  a  congre- 
gation of  800  persons.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Associate  Synod.  The  parochial  school 
is  well  attended ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4|., 
with  £10  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  In  the  grounds 
of  Auchinleck  House,  are  some  remains  of  the  ancient 
castle,  in  a  greatly  dilapidated  condition  ;  and  in  the 
75 


upper  part  of  the  parish,  near  the  junction  of  the  Gelt 
and  Glenmore  streams,  are  slight  remains  of  the  castle 
of  Kyle,  the  history  of  which  is  involved  in  great  uncer- 
tainty. On  the  banks  of  the  Ayr,  near  the  confines  of 
the  parish  of  Muirkirk,  are  the  vestiges  of  some  old  iron- 
works, said  to  have  been  established  by  Lord  Cathcart ; 
and  it  is  exceedingly  probable  that  new  iron- works  will 
shortly  be  erected  in  the  parish,  which  abounds  with 
ironstone.  William  Murdoch,  of  the  firm  of  Bolton 
and  Watt,  of  Soho,  near  Birmingham,  and  who  first 
applied  gas  for  the  illumination  of  buildings,  was  a  native 
of  this  parish. 

AUCHINLOCH,  a  hamlet,  in  the  late  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Chryston,  parish  of  Cadder,  Lower  ward  of 
the  county  of  Lanark,  2  miles  (S.)  from  Kirkintilloch ; 
containing  138  inhabitants.  This  village  has  its  name 
from  a  considerable  loch  now  drained,  and  owes  its 
origin  to  the  mines  of  coal  in  its  immediate  vicinity, 
which  have  been  worked,  on  a  moderate  scale,  by  its 
inhabitants,  though  the  quality  is  scarcely  good  enough 
to  remunerate  the  expense  of  obtaining  it.  There  are 
also  limestone-quarries,  from  which  are  raised  materials 
for  building  and  agricultural  purposes,  and  for  which 
works  have  been  established  at  Garnkirk.  In  the  vil- 
lage is  a  school  endowed  by  Patrick  Baird  with  £300, 
the  interest  whereof  is  paid  annually  to  the  master. 

AUCHINMULLY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kil- 
syth, county  of  Stirling,  2  miles  (E.  N.  E.)  from 
Kilsyth;  containing  212  inhabitants.  It  is  also  called 
Lower  Banton,  and  is  situated  in  the  east  barony  divi- 
sion of  the  parish  :  on  the  south,  flows  the  river  Kel- 
vin, from  which  the  village  is  distant  about  a  mile. 

AUCHINRAITH,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Blan- 
tyre,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  contain- 
ing 77  inhabitants.  It  lies  to  the  east  of,  and  is  a  short 
distance  from,  the  village  of  Blantyre  :  the  Alston 
family  have  a  handsome  seat  here. 

AUCHINTIBER,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Blan- 
tyre, Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  contain- 
ing 73  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  the  western  part 
of  the  parish,  on  which  side  the  Rotten-Calder  water 
forms  the  boundary,  and  separates  the  parish  from  that 
of  Kilbride. 

AUCHLEVEN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Premnay, 
district  of  Garioch,  county  of  Aberdeen  ;  containing 
107  inhabitants.  It  is  seated  in  the  south  of  the  parish, 
and  on  the  road  from  Insch  to  Keig,  which  here  crosses 
the  river  Gaudy,  by  a  light  bridge  of  two  arches,  built  in 
1836.  In  the  village,  are  three  or  four  engines  for 
carding  wool ;  and  cloth  is  manufactured  to  a  small 
extent. 

AUCHMILLAN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Mauch- 
line,  district  of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr,  2  miles  (N.  by 
E.)  from  Mauchline;  containing  24  inhabitants.  This 
place  is  situated,  equidistantly,  between  the  roads  from 
Mauchline  to  Kilmallock  and  from  Sorn  Castle  to  Gal- 
ston  :  the  number  of  the  population  has  latterly  de- 
clined. 

AUCHMITHIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  St.  Vi- 
gean's,  county  of  Forfar,  3|  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Ar- 
broath ;  containing  307  inhabitants.  It  is  upon  the 
coast,  and  on  a  high  rocky  bank  which  rises  nearly  120 
feet  above  the  sea  ;  and  is  irregularly  built,  but  contains 
several  good  houses,  though  the  dwellings  are  chiefly 
those    of   fishermen,    who    form    a   large   part    of  the 


A  U  CH 


A  U  C  H 


population.  The  harbour  is  a  level  beach,  formed  by  an 
opening  between  the  rocks  that  here  surround  the  coast : 
near  the  village,  is  the  Gaylet  Pot,  a  remarkable  cavern 
into  which  the  sea  flows.  Divine  service  is  performed 
in  a  small  chapel,  by  a  minister  of  the  Established 
Church. 

AUCHNACRAIG,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Toro- 
say,  island  of  Mull,  county  of  Argyll,  18  miles  (S.  E.) 
from  Aros.  It  is  situated  on  the  eastern  coast  of  the 
island,  and  has  a  post-office  establishment,  and  a  regular 
ferry,  first  to  Kerrera,  and  thence  to  the  main  land  near 
Oban,  affording  facility  for  the  transport  of  horses  and 
cattle  to  the  several  markets,  but  the  number  at  pre- 
sent ferried  over  is  not  so  great  as  formerly. 

AUCHTERARDER,  a  town,  the  seat  of  a  pres- 
bytery, and  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth,  545  miles 
(N.  W.)  from  Edinburgh  ;  containing,  with  the  villages 
of  Borland -Park  and  Smithyhaugh,  3434  inhabitants,  of 
whom  206S  are  in  the  town.  This  place  anciently 
belonged  to  the  abbey  of  Inchaffray  ;  and  in  132S,  the 
lands  were  granted,  by  charter  of  Robert  Bruce,  to  Sir 
William  Montifix,  justiciary  of  Scotland,  whose  daughter 
and  heiress  conveyed  them,  by  marriage,  to  Sir  John 
Drummond,  with  whose  descendants  they  remained  till 
their  forfeiture,  by  the  participation  of  that  family  in  the 
rebellion  of  1715.  During  that  period  of  distraction, 
the  town  was  laid  waste  and  burnt  by  the  Pretender's 
army,  under  the  Earl  of  Mar,  in  order  to  check  the 
progress  of  the  royal  forces.  For  this  injury,  indemni- 
fication was  promised  to  the  inhabitants,  by  proclama- 
tion issued  from  the  ancient  palace  of  Scone,  in  1716; 
but  the  only  compensation  they  received  was  from  the 
reigning  family,  to  such  of  them  as  had  not  been  con- 
cerned in  the  rebellion.  The  commissioners  appointed 
to  take  charge  of  the  forfeited  estates,  made  a  survey  of 
the  barony  of  Auchterarder,  in  1773,  by  which  it  ap- 
pears that  the  inhabitants  were  in  a  very  distressed  con- 
dition, on  account  of  the  backward  state  of  agriculture 
and  the  want  of  employment,  from  which,  however,  they 
have  been  gradually  rising  ;  and  since  the  purchase  of 
the  estate  by  Captain  Hunter,  the  place  has  rapidly 
improved. 

The  town,  which,  upon  disputed  authority,  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  anciently  a  royal  burgh,  is  situated 
on  the  turnpike-road  from  Glasgow  to  Perth,  and  con- 
sists chiefly  of  one  street,  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  in 
which  are  some  well-built  houses,  and  numerous  others 
of  inferior  appearance,  occupied  by  weavers  and  manu- 
facturers. The  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  with 
pure  water,  from  a  copious  spring,  conveyed  b3r  pipes 
into  their  houses,  mainly  through  the  exertions  of  Cap- 
tain Aytoun,  in  1S32;  and  a  mechanics'  institution,  in 
which  lectures  were  delivered  during  the  winter  months, 
formerly  existed  in  the  town.  The  chief  trades  are, 
the  weaving  of  cotton  for  the  manufacturers  of  Glasgow, 
in  which  more  than  500  looms  are  in  constant  operation ; 
and  the  making  of  shawls,  blankets,  and  other  articles 
of  the  woollen  manufacture.  There  are  two  breweries 
for  ale  and  beer  in  operation  ;  and  a  branch  of  the 
Central  Bank  of  Scotland,  and  a  branch  of  the  National 
Savings'  Bank,  have  been  established.  The  town  is 
also  adequately  supplied  with  gas.  A  market  is  held 
on  Saturday,  and  is  well  supplied  with  provisions  and 
with  grain,  for  which  it  is  the  principal  mart  of  the 
district  ;  and  fairs  are  held  on  the  last  Tuesday  in 
77 


Mareh,  for  grain  ;  the  Thursday  after  the  last  Tuesday 
in  May,  for  cattle  ;  the  Fridays  before  the  Falkirk  trysts 
in  August,  September,  and  October,  for  cattle  and 
horses  ;  and  the  6th  of  December,  for  cattle  and  general 
business.  The  post-office  has  a  tolerable  delivery,  and 
facility  of  communication  with  Edinburgh,  Glasgow, 
Perth,  and  Stirling,  is  maintained  by  good  roads  :  a 
survey  has  been  made  by  subscription,  for  the  construc- 
tion of  a  railway  from  Perth  to  Stirling,  which,  if  car- 
ried into  effect,  will  pass  near  the  town. 

The  parish,  which  includes  also  the  ancient  parish 
of  Aberuthven,  united  to  it  prior  to  the  Reformation,  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Earn,  and  extends 
eight  miles  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  and  three 
miles  in  breadth,  from  east  to  west,  comprising  13,747 
acres,  of  which  7176  are  arable,  about  300  acres  wood- 
land and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  meadow,  pas- 
ture, and  waste.  The  surface  is  hilly,  and  rises  from 
the  banks  of  the  Earn  to  the  Ochils,  of  which  the 
highest,  Craig  Rossie,  2359  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  is  within  the  limits  of  the  parish.  The  principal 
rivers  are,  the  Earn,  which  rises  in  Loch  Earn,  and  falls 
into  the  Tay,  and  the  Ruthven,  which,  after  receiving 
the  waters  of  several  rivulets  descending  from  the 
Ochils,  flows  through  the  parish,  and  falls  into  the  Earn  : 
in  the  Earn  are  found  salmon  and  large  white  and 
yellow  trout,  and  in  the  Ruthven,  a  sm;.ll  species 
of  trout,  remarkable  for  the  delicacy  of  its  flavour. 
The  soil,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  is  light  and 
sandy  ;  in  the  lower  lands,  a  clayey  loam  ;  and  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  town,  a  rich  black  loam ;  the 
chief  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  turnips, 
and  peas,  with  the  usual  grasses.  The  system  of  hus- 
bandry has  been  greatly  improved  ;  much  waste  land 
has  been  reclaimed  by  embankment,  from  the  overflow- 
ing of  the  Earn,  and  a  considerable  stimulus  is  afforded 
by  the  premiums  awarded  at  an  annual  ploughing- 
match,  by  the  agricultural  society  of  the  parish.  Cows 
of  the  Ayrshire  breed  are  kept  on  the  dairy-farms  ;  the 
cattle  on  the  pastures  are  generally  the  Teeswater,  and 
on  the  lower  lands,  sheep  of  the  Leicestershire  breed 
have  been  introduced.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £8600.  The  substrata  are  mostly  of  the 
old  red  sandstone  formation,  grey  slate  of  good  quality 
for  roofing,  and  limestone,  which,  from  the  scarcity  of 
fuel,  is  not  much  wrought ;  a  search  has  been  made  for 
coal,  but  without  success.  There  is  little  old  wood  now 
remaining ;  the  plantations,  which  are  principally  of 
modern  date,  are  chiefly  larch  and  oak.  Auchterarder 
House  is  a  handsome  mansion  in  the  Elizabethan  style, 
recently  erected,  and  situated  in  grounds  that  have  been 
greatly  improved. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Auchterarder  and  synod  of 
Perth  and  Stirling  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £199.  14.2., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £17  per  annum; 
patron,  the  Earl  of  Kinnoull.  The  church,  rebuilt  in 
17S4,  and  enlarged  in  1S11,  is  a  plain  structure,  situated 
in  the  town,  and  containing  930  sittings.  At  Aberuth- 
ven, is  the  mausoleum  of  the  Graham  family,  in  which 
are  several  coffins  containing  the  remains  of  departed 
dukes  of  Montrose,  and  in  the  vault  beneath,  have  been 
interred  many  of  their  ancestors.  There  are  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  and  of  the 
Relief  and   United   Secession    Synods.      The  parochial 


AUG  II 


AUCH 


school  is  well  attended ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34.  4.  4.,  with  a  house,  and  an  allowance  of  £2  in  lieu 
of  a  garden  ;  the  fees  average  about  £40  per  annum. 
There  is  also  a  school,  for  which  a  building  was  erected 
in  1811,  by  John  Sheddan,  Esq.,  who  endowed  it  with 
£1000,  the  interest  of  which  is  paid  to  the  master,  on 
condition  of  his  teaching  twelve  children  gratuitously. 
To  the  north  of  the  town,  are  the  ruins  of  a  building 
supposed  to  have  been  a  hunting-seat  of  Malcolm  Can- 
more  ;  the  walls,  which  are  of  great  thickness,  have 
been  nearly  demolished  for  building  materials.  East- 
ward of  these  ruins,  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient 
church  of  St.  Mungo,  formerly  the  parish  church,  the 
cemetery  of  which  is  still  used  as  a  place  of  sepulture  by 
the  parishioners ;  and  in  digging  the  foundation  for  the 
present  church,  a  coin  of  the  Emperor  Titus  Vespasian 
was  found,  in  a  very  perfect  state. 

AUCHTERDERRAN,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of 
Kirkcaldy,  county  of  Fife,  6  miles  (N.  W.  by  W.) 
from  Kirkcaldy;  containing  1913  inhabitants,  of  whom 
770  are  in  the  village  of  Lochgelly.  This  parish  is 
about  six  miles  in  length,  and  three  in  breadth  ;  the 
surface  is  mostly  flat,  though  varying  in  elevation,  the 
lands  near  Lochgelly  being  more  than  100  feet  above 
the  general  level.  The  river  Ore,  which  has  its  source 
in  the  parish  of  Ballingry,  flows  through  this  parish, 
in  its  course  to  the  Leven,  and  has  two  bridges,  each  of 
one  arch  ;  the  scenery  is  greatly  varied,  in  some  parts 
dreary,  and  in  others  richly  ornamented  with  planta- 
tions, especially  near  the  lake  of  Lochgelly,  a  large 
sheet  of  water  about  three  miles  in  circumference,  the 
shores  of  which,  sometimes  wooded,  have  a  beautiful 
appearance.  The  soil  is  chiefly  clay,  interspersed  with 
sand,  but  in  several  places  are  tracts  of  black  loam, 
producing  abundant  crops ;  about  one-third  of  the  land 
is  in  pasture,  about  500  acres  wood,  and  the  remainder 
arable,  in  good  cultivation.  The  system  of  husbandry 
has  been  greatly  improved,  under  the  auspices  of  the 
late  Lord  Minto  and  other  of  the  landed  proprietors  ; 
a  considerable  tract  of  waste  was  converted  into  rich 
arable  land,  by  the  late  proprietor  of  Raith,  and  is 
now  one  of  the  most  productive  farms  in  the  parish. 
The  crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  potatoes,  beans,  and 
peas  ;  the  cattle  are  of  the  black  Fifeshire  breed,  and 
much  attention  is  paid  to  their  improvement ;  the  farm- 
buildings  are  commodious,  and  the  lands,  which  are 
well  drained,  are  generally  inclosed  with  stone  dykes. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £501S.  There 
is  very  little  natural  wood,  and  the  plantations  are 
mostly  of  recent  growth;  about  15  Scotch  acres  of 
moss  have  been  lately  planted  with  Scotch  firs,  which 
are  thriving  well.  The  substratum  is  mainly  whinstone; 
limestone  of  excellent  quality  is  quarried  in  several 
places,  and  coal  is  every  where  abundant.  The  coal- 
mines at  Cluny,  belonging  to  Mr.  Ferguson,  are  very 
productive  ;  about  70,000  loads  are  annually  raised,  for 
the  supply  of  the  neighbourhood,  and  more  than  70 
persons  are  employed  in  the  works.  The  mines  on 
Lord  Minto's  lands  of  Lochgelly  produce  50,000  loads 
annually,  and  afford  constant  occupation  to  about  fifty 
persons  ;  and  the  works  at  Dundonald,  belonging  to 
R.  W.  Ramsay,  Esq.,  produce  about  7000  loads.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcaldy  and  synod  of 
Fife;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £237.  II.  10.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £30  per  annum  ;  patrons, 
78 


the  Boswell  family,  of  Balmuto.  The  church  was  built 
in  1789,  and  is  situated  near  the  east  side  of  the 
parish.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  Seceders,  in 
the  village  of  Lochgelly.  The  parochial  school  is  at- 
tended by  nearly  100  scholars  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £34.  4.  5.,  with  £25  fees,  and  a  good  house. 

AUCHTERGAVEN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Perth,  S§  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Perth ;  containing, 
with  the  villages  of  Bankfoot,  Carnie-Hill,  and  Water- 
loo, and  part  of  Stanley,  3366  inhabitants.  This  place 
was  distinguished,  in  former  times,  as  the  scene  of  some 
fierce  contentions  between  the  Bishop  of  Dunkeld  and 
Sir  James  Criehton,  of  Strathford,  in  this  parish,  who 
had  forcibly  taken  possession  of  the  lands  of  Little 
Dunkeld,  belonging  to  that  see.  In  the  rebellion  of 
1745,  Lord  Nairne,  who  owned  considerable  estates 
here,  embarked  in  the  cause  of  the  Pretender,  whom  he 
joined  at  Perth,  and  on  his  defeat  accompanied  him  to 
the  continent,  where  he  continued  till  his  death.  The 
title,  upon  his  attainder,  became  forfeited ;  and  the 
splendid  baronial  mansion  which  he  had  nearly  com- 
pleted, to  replace  the  former  that  had  been  destroyed 
by  fire,  was  sold,  with  the  estates,  and  afterwards  taken 
down  by  the  Duke  of  Atholl,  who  became  the  proprietor, 
by  purchase.  The  parish,  which  derives  its  name  from 
a  Celtic  term  descriptive  of  its  situation,  is  about  ten 
miles  in  length,  and  of  very  irregular  form,  varying 
from  less  than  two  to  six  miles  in  breadth ;  it  is 
bounded  on  the  east  by  the  river  Tay,  and  on  the  west 
by  a  brook  which  separates  it  from  Mullion,  a  detached 
portion  of  the  parish  of  Redgorton.  It  comprehends, 
within  its  natural  limits,  an  isolated  tract  four  miles  in 
length,  but  of  very  small  breadth,  called  Tullybeagles, 
belonging  to  the  parish  of  Metbven. 

The  surface  is  agreeably  diversified  with  hills  and 
dales,  rising  gradually  from  the  banks  of  the  Tay,  to  a 
lofty  range  on  the  west  and  north-west,  forming  a  por- 
tion of  the  Grampian  heights,  of  which  the  highest 
within  the  parish  is  Birnam  Hill,  1300  feet  above  the 
sea ;  the  other  hills  are,  Craig-Obney,  Craig-Gibbon, 
Tullybelton,  and  Corrody  hills,  which  are  not  greatly 
inferior  in  elevation.  On  one  of  these  hills,  still  called 
"  Court  Hill,"  the  sheriff  is  said  to  have  held  his  court, 
for  the  trial  of  a  lawless  set  of  banditti  who  committed 
great  depredation  on  the  lands ;  and  some  trees  on 
which  the  men  were  executed,  are  styled  "  Hanged 
Men's  Trees."  Numerous  streams  descend  from  the 
mountains,  affording  an  abundant  supply  of  water,  and 
adding  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  which  is  richly 
embellished  with  woods  and  plantations.  The  principal 
of  these  streams  is  the  Corral  burn,  which  issues  from 
a  spring  at  the  base  of  the  Obney  hills,  flows  through 
the  village  of  Bankfoot,  and  falls  into  the  Garry  near 
the  church,  receiving,  in  its  course,  the  waters  of  the 
Aldinny,  which  rises  also  in  the  Obney  hills.  The 
Garry,  issuing  from  the  head  of  Glen-Garr,  flows  be- 
tween the  hills  above  Strathban,  and,  after  receiving  the 
waters  of  the  Corral,  falls  into  the  Ordie  at  Loak.  The 
Ordie  has  its  source  in  a  lake  in  the  hill  of  Tullybelton, 
and,  after  traversing  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  re- 
ceiving the  Wynnie,  which  rises  in  the  district  of  Tully- 
beagles, flows  into  the  Shochie  in  the  parish  of  Red- 
gorton ;  the  Shochie,  which  has  its  source  in  Glen-Shee, 
after  receiving  the  above-named  tributary  streams,  falls 
into  the  Tav. 


A  U  C  H 


AUCH 


The  parish  comprises  19,-00  acres,  of  which  about 
6000  are  arable,  and  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation, 
796  woodland,  and  1300  pasture.  Considerable  addi- 
tions have  been  recently  made  to  the  arable  and  pas- 
ture lands,  by  improvements  in  draining  and  fencing, 
and  an  advanced  state  of  agriculture,  and  comparatively 
little  of  the  moor  and  waste  will  remain  long  in  an  un- 
productive state.  The  soil  is  various  in  the  different 
districts,  but,  in  general,  is  a  loam,  intermixed  with 
sand  and  pebbles,  and,  in  some  of  the  farms,  with  large 
boulders  of  stone ;  in  the  upper  lands,  it  is  very  reten- 
tive of  moisture,  and  in  the  lower  grounds  comparatively 
dry  and  light.  The  principal  crops  are,  oats,  barley, 
wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  bone-dust  has  been  in- 
troduced for  manure,  on  the  turnip  lands,  with  very 
great  success.  Much  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of 
cattle,  which  are  mostly  the  Ayrshire,  with  a  cross  of 
the  short-horned  breed,  and  some  few  of  the  Angus- 
shire;  the  sheep  are  nearly  all  of  the  Scotch  black-faced 
kind,  which  feed  in  the  hills,  and  a  few  of  the  Leicester- 
shire, which  are  pastured  on  the  low  lands.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £9S96.  The  woods 
mainly  consist  of  oak,  common  and  mountain  ash,  elm, 
and  beech,  and  the  plantations  of  larch,  and  spruce  and 
Scotch  firs  ;  along  the  banks  of  the  Tay,  are  some  re- 
markably fine  beech-trees.  "The  substratum,  in  the 
lower  lands,  is  chiefly  gravel  of  very  great  depth,  inter- 
sected by  a  seam  of  whinstone,  which  is  quarried  for 
mending  the  roads,  and  alternated  with  strata  of  red 
sandstone  ;  the  hills  are  principally  of  clay-slate  and 
greywacke,  in  which  masses  of  quartz  are  found.  At 
Glen-Shee  is  a  quarry  of  slate,  of  good  quality  for  roof- 
ing; there  are  two  varieties,  blue  and  grey,  the  latter  of 
which  is  the  more  durable  :  slate  of  a  similar  kind  was 
formerly  quarried  at  Obney  and  at  Tullybeagles.  The 
sandstone  is  quarried  for  building  purposes,  at  Stanley, 
and  in  other  parts  of  the  parish  ;  the  finest  quarry  is 
at  Speedy  Hill ;  the  stone  found  here,  is  of  greenish 
hue,  very  compact,  and  susceptible  of  a  fine  polish,  and 
was  employed  in  the  erection  of  the  new  castle  of  Dun- 
keld.  Stanley  House,  an  ancient  mansion  to  which  re- 
peated additions  have  been  made,  and  which  is  greatly 
modernised,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  shore  of  the 
Tay,  embosomed  in  a  richly-wooded  demesne,  contain- 
ing many  stately  trees  :  Airlyvvight  House  is  a  hand- 
some residence  of  modern  erection,  on  elevated  ground 
commanding  an  extensive  prospect,  and  forms  an  inter- 
esting and  very  prominent  feature  in  the  landscape. 

A  considerable  number  of  the  inhabitants  are  em- 
ployed in  weaving,  for  the  manufactures  of  Blairgowrie, 
Dundee,  Arbroath,  Cupar,  and  Newburgh  ;  the  principal 
fabrics  are  white  linens  and  dowlas,  and  in  the  weav- 
ing of  these,  and  in  spinning  and  winding,  about  300 
persons  are  engaged,  of  whom  a  large  portion  are 
females.  More  than  1000  persons  are  employed  in  the 
Stanley  cotton-works,  which  are  separately  described  ; 
there  are  five  corn  and  two  lint  mills.  The  high  road 
from  Edinburgh  to  Inverness  passes,  for  five  miles, 
through  the  parish.  A  penny-post  has  been  established 
at  Bankfoot,  which  forwards  letters  to  Perth  daily  ;  and 
a  fair  is  held  in  the  village  of  Auchtergaven,  on  the 
second  Friday  in  November,  for  the  sale  of  cattle,  sheep, 
and  horses,  and  for  agricultural  produce.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
presbytery  of  Dunkeld  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling ; 
79 


patron,  the  Crown.  The  parish  comprises  the  small 
ancient  parish  of  Logiebride,  which  was  united  to  it, 
by  act  of  parliament,  in  1618,  and  subsequently  severed 
from  it,  by  the  Bishop  of  Dunkeld,  but  again  united  at 
the  period  of  the  Revolution  in  the  17th  century  ;  the 
church  of  Logiebride  stood  on  the  bank  of  the  Ordie, 
but  has  long  since  disappeared,  though  the  ancient 
cemetery  is  still  used  as  a  place  of  sepulture.  The 
stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £179-  6.  4.;  the  manse 
is  a  plain  building,  erected  within  the  last  twenty 
years,  and  the  glebe  lands  are  valued  at  £15  per  annum. 
The  church,  situated  on  an  eminence  rising  from  the 
road  between  Dundee  and  Perth,  is  a  plain  substantial 
edifice,  with  a  western  tower,  added  by  the  Duke  of 
Atholl,  and  is  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  1200  per- 
sons. There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church,  and  of  the  United  Seceders'  and  Relief 
Synods.  The  parochial  school  affords  a  liberal  course  of 
instruction  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4^., 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about 
£15  per  annum.  On  the  farm  of  Middle  Blelock,  and  at 
Obney,  are  some  large  upright  stones,  concerning  which 
nothing  authentic  is  known.  A  vitrified  fort  has  been 
discovered  on  Obney  Hill ;  and  near  the  ruins  of 
an  old  chapel,  at  Tullybeagles,  ancient  coins  have  been 
discovered,  which  are  in  the  cabinet  of  the  Literary  and 
Antiquarian  Society  of  Perth,  Human  bones  have 
been  found  near  the  site  of  another  chapel,  on  the 
lands  of  Berryhill  farm,  in  the  same  district,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Ordie.  Near  Stanley,  are  the  remains  of 
a  round  tower  called  Inverbervie,  or  Inchbervis,  which 
is  said  to  have  been  originally  a  religious  house,  and 
a  cell  to  the  abbey  of  Dunfermline ;  and  on  the 
wester-town  of  Kinglands,  is  a  cairn,  which  has  not 
been  yet  explored. 

AUCHTERHOUSE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Forfar,  7  miles  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from  Dundee  ;  contain- 
ing, with  the  villages  of  Dronley  and  Kirkton,  769  inha- 
bitants. This  parish,  the  name  of  which  is  of  uncertain 
derivation,  is  nearly  of  triangular  form,  and  includes 
the  southern  range  of  the  hill  of  Sidlaw,  that  eminence 
separating  it  from  Strathmore ;  and  along  its  southern 
boundary  runs  the  Dighty  water,  which  falls  into  the 
Tay,  near  the  influx  of  the  latter  into  the  German  Ocean. 
It  has  an  undulated  surface,  covering  about  5450  acres, 
of  which  3567  are  under  cultivation,  1406  wood,  and 
the  remainder  hill  pasture.  The  ground  rises  from 
south  to  north,  and  the  acclivities  are  under  cultivation 
to  the  spot  where  the  church  stands,  S00  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea ;  but,  more  northerly,  the  land  rises 
considerably,  reaching,  at  the  White-Sheets,  one  of  the 
Sidlaw  hills,  and  the  highest  part  of  the  parish,  to  about 
1400  feet  above  the  high- water  mark  at  Dundee,  and  is 
there  only  fit  for  pasture  and  plantations.  The  burn  of 
Dronley,  and  that  of  Auchterhouse,  turn  several  mills 
in  their  separate  courses  from  the  west  and  north- 
west, before  their  junction  at  the  village  of  Dronley,  after 
which,  the  united  streams  take  the  name  of  Dighty,  for 
the  rest  of  their  passage  to  the  ocean.  The  climate,  in 
the  higher  district,  is  cold  and  bracing ;  in  the  lower 
division  it  has  been  much  improved,  within  these  few 
years,  by  extensive  draining,  and  is  pure  and  salubrious. 
The  soil  of  the  uncultivated  portions,  with  slight  ex- 
ceptions, consists  of  a  thin  moorish  earth,  lying  on  a 
retentive  tilly  subsoil,  supported   by  a  substratum   of 


AUCH 


A  UCH 


sandstone  ;  and  the  land  under  tillage  is  mostly  a  black 
mould,  in  some  places  sandy,  resting  on  till  or  marl, 
producing,  under  skilful  management,  good  average 
crops  of  oats  and  barley,  with  the  usual  green  crops, 
and  sometimes  wheat,  though  this  last  has  been  nearly 
discontinued,  not  having  in  general  succeeded.  The 
dairy  is  much  attended  to ;  subsoil-ploughing  and 
furrow-draining  are  extensively  practised,  with  great 
advantage  ;  and,  by  the  kindly  feeling  and  steady  co- 
operation between  landlords  and  tenants,  among  many 
other  improvements,  nearly  500  acres  of  moor,  moss, 
and  bog  have  been  reclaimed,  within  the  present  cen- 
tury, and  now  produce  fair  crops.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £5316. 

The  soil,  throughout  the  parish,  is  underlaid  with 
sandstone,  very  near  the  surface,  and  the  Sidlaw  hill 
consists  of  the  same  rock,  occasionally  intersected  with 
trap  dykes,  and  supplying  a  useful  material  for  many 
purposes ;  a  quarry  is  in  operation  on  the  estate  of 
Scotstown,  giving  employment  to  five  or  six  hands. 
Plantations  comprising  larch,  spruce,  Scotch  fir,  elm, 
ash,  plane,  and  beech,  have  been  formed  on  the  hills,  and 
on  the  moors  of  Dronley  and  Adamstown,  by  the  Earl  of 
Camperdown,  to  the  extent  of  nearly  300  acres,  the 
spruce  and  Scotch  fir,  however,  alone  being  likely  to 
succeed ;  and  the  Earl  of  Airlie  has  planted  above  800 
acres  of  the  hill  of  Sidlaw.  The  old  baronial  residence 
of  Auchterhouse,  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Airlie,  and 
the  only  mansion  in  the  parish,  contains,  among  its 
other  grounds,  at  a  short  distance,  some  very  fine 
orchards.  Facility  of  communication  is  offered  by  the 
Dundee  and  Newtyle  turnpike-road,  running  through 
the  parish,  from  the  southern  to  the  northern  extremity, 
and  by  the  railway  between  the  same  places,  which, 
entering  the  parish  over  Dighty  water,  on  the  south- 
east, and  leaving  it  at  the  north-western  limit,  has  a 
depot  near  the  Milltown  of  Auchterhouse.  The  parish 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dundee  and  synod  of  Angus  and 
Mearns,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Airlie  ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  about  £200,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  of  7  acres,  valued  at  £15  per  annum.  The  church 
was  built  in  1775,  and  consists  of  portions  both  old  and 
modern  ;  it  has,  on  the  west,  a  steeple  with  a  bell,  and 
on  the  east  a  cemetery,  very  ancient,  but  in  good  con- 
dition, containing  the  remains  of  some  members  of 
the  Erskine  family,  and  of  those  of  Lyon  and  Ogilvy. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual 
branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with 
£20.  12.  4.  fees.  Near  the  mansion  of  Auchterhouse, 
are  the  ruins  of  a  square  building  called  Wallace  Tower, 
supposed  to  have  taken  its  name  from  a  visit  paid  here 
to  Sir  John  Ramsay,  the  proprietor,  by  the  Scottish 
patriot,  Sir  William  Wallace,  after  lauding  at  Montrose, 
with  his  French  auxiliaries.  Not  far  from  this  spot,  as 
well  as  in  other  parts  of  the  parish,  is  one  of  those 
caverns  styled  "  Weems,"  in  which  have  been  found  a 
hand-mill  and  various  relics,  indicating  its  former  use  as 
an  abode  of  men ;  and  on  the  south  of  the  hill  of  Sid- 
law, is  a  Druidical  altar,  in  good  preservation. 

AUCHTERLESS,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Tur- 
riff, county  of  Aberdeen,  7  miles  (S.  by  W.)  from 
Turriff;  containing  1685  inhabitants.  The  name  of 
this  place  is  derived  from  a  Gaelic  word  signifying,  "  a 
cultivated  field  on  the  side  of  a  hill,"  which  application 
of  the  term  is  favoured  by  the  general  appearance  of  the 
80 


surface.  The  parish,  which  is  of  an  irregular  oblong 
figure,  is  about  8  miles  in  length,  and  4  in  breadth,  and 
contains  nearly  16,000  acres,  of  which  two-thirds  are 
cultivated,  and  nearly  500  acres  in  plantation.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north-west  by  the  county  of  Banff,  and 
is  watered  by  the  Ythan,  the  only  considerable  stream, 
which,  rising  about  a  mile  from  the  boundary  of  Auch- 
terless,  and  flowing  through  the  vale  in  a  north-easterly 
direction,  discharges  its  waters  into  the  German  Ocean 
below  Ellon.  The  soil,  in  some  parts,  is  clayey,  but 
more  frequently  consists  of  gravel,  lying  upon  a  bed  of 
clay-slate,  and  is  almost  uniformly  dry.  The  cattle  are 
of  the  Aberdeenshire  breed,  which  sprang  from  a  cross 
between  the  native  and  the  old  Fife  stock,  about  60  or 
70  years  since ;  the  sheep,  which  are  not  numerous,  are 
the  Cheviots.  The  husbandry  adopted  is  of  the  best 
kind,  and  the  free  use  of  compost,  bone,  guano,  and 
lime  manure  has  much  contributed  to  the  fertility  of 
the  soil  ;  almost  every  farm,  too,  of  any  extent,  has  a 
threshing-mill  on  the  premises,  turned  by  one  of  the 
tributary  streams  of  the  Ythan.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £6773.  The  prevailing  rock  is  a 
clay-stone  slate,  which  runs  through  the  whole  of  the 
parish,  from  north-east  to  south-west,  but  lies  at  too 
great  a  depth  to  be  available  for  the  purposes  of  quar- 
rying. The  villages  are,  Gordonstown,  about  2  miles 
from  the  church,  and  the  little  hamlet  of  Kirktown, 
where  a  market  is  held  on  the  Wednesday  after  the 
second  Tuesday  in  April  (O.  S.),  for  the  sale  of  sheep 
and  cattle,  and  which  is  called  Donan  fair,  from  the 
ancient  tutelary  saint  of  the  parish.  The  Aberdeen  and 
Banff  turnpike-road  runs,  for  nearly  three  miles,  along 
the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish,  and  affords  con- 
siderable facility.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject 
to  the  presbytery  of  Turriff  and  synod  of  Aberdeen ; 
the  patronage  belongs  to  the  family  of  Duff,  and  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £191.  6.  5.,  with  a  good  manse, 
and  a  glebe  of  about  6  acres.  The  church,  a  plain 
edifice,  built  in  1780,  and  repaired  in  1832,  seats  750 
persons.  In  the  parochial  school,  Greek,  Latin,  and 
mathematics,  with  all  the  usual  branches  of  education, 
are  taught;  and  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  £21 
fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  The  antiquities  comprise 
some  Druidical  circles,  a  moat,  and  similar  remains. 
The  parish  has  been  famed  for  the  longevity  of  several 
of  its  inhabitants,  one  of  whom,  Peter  Garden,  a  farmer, 
died  about  the  year  1780,  at  the  advanced  age  of  132, 
having  lived  under  ten  sovereigns,  commencing  with 
Charles  I. ;  he  was  one  of  the  garrison  in  the  old  castle 
of  Towie  Barclay,  when  Montrose  defended  it  against 
Argyll. 

AUCHTERMUCHTY,  a 
royal  burgh,  and  a  parish, 
in  the  district  of  Cupar, 
county  of  Fife,  9  miles  (W. 
by  S.)  from  Cupar ;  contain- 
ing, -with  the  village  of  Dun- 
shelt,  3356  inhabitants,  of 
whom  1340  are  in  the  burgh. 
This  place,  of  which  the 
name,  in  the  Gaelic  language, 
signifies  "  the  cottage  of  the 
king,"  is  supposed,  from  that 
circumstance,  to  have  been 
appropriated  to  the  accommodation  of  part  of  the  royal 


Burgh  Seal. 


AUCH 


A  U  C  H 


household,  during  the  king's  residence  in  the  palace  of 
Falkland,  about  three  miles  distant,  and  which  had  been 
previously  one  of  the  strongholds  of  Macduff,  Earl  of 
Fife.  The  town,  which  is  situated  on  the  road  from 
Kinross  to  Cupar,  is  irregularly  built,  consisting  of  se- 
veral ill-formed  streets  and  lanes  of  houses  of  mean 
appearance,  many  of  them  having  thatched  roofs,  though 
intermixed  with  some  of  more  modern  and  handsome 
character,  with  neat  gardens  attached  ;  it  is  inhabited 
by  an  industrious  and  thriving  population,  and  has  a 
public  library,  supported  by  subscription. 

The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  employed  in  hand-loom 
weaving,  for  the  manufacturers  of  Dunfermline,  New- 
burgh,  and  Kirkcaldy;  the  principal  articles  are  linen 
goods,  consisting  of  checks,  drills,  dowlas,  sheetings,  and 
other  fabrics,  in  making  which  about  1000  persons  are 
engaged.  A  considerable  number  were  formerly  occu- 
pied in  these  manufactures,  on  their  own  account ;  but 
there  are  only  one  or  two  establishments  of  the  kind 
now  remaining.  On  the  banks  of  a  rivulet  near  the 
extremity  of  the  town,  are,  a  bleachfield,  flour-mill, 
and  saw-mill ;  and  there  are  also  a  thriving  distillery, 
and  an  extensive  malting  concern.  A  branch  of  the 
Union  Bank  of  Scotland  has  likewise  been  established. 
The  market,  which  is  on  Monday,  is  well  supplied  with 
grain  and  provisions  of  every  kind  ;  and  fairs  are  held 
on  the  25th  of  March  (O.  S.),  the  13th  of  July,  and 
the  21st  of  August,  for  horses  and  cattle;  the  July  fair 
is  also  a  statute-fair.  The  inhabitants  were  first  in- 
corporated by  charter  of  James  IV.,  who  erected  the 
town  into  a  royal  burgh  ;  and  its  liberties,  as  such, 
were  confirmed  by  James  VI. ;  but  the  right  of  sending 
a  member  to  parliament  has  been  lost,  from  disuse, 
though  it  still  retains  its  corporation,  and  most  of  its 
other  privileges.  The  government  is  vested  in  three 
bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  a  council  of  fifteen  members, 
chosen  under  the  authority  of  the  Municipal  Reform 
act.  The  magistrates  have  jurisdiction  over  the  whole 
of  the  royalty,  and  hold  courts  for  the  determination 
of  civil  pleas  to  any  amount ;  in  criminal  cases,  their 
jurisdiction  is  confined  to  misdemeanours.  The  post- 
office  has  a  tolerable  delivery  ;  and  facility  of  commu- 
nication with  the  neighbouring  towns,  is  afforded  by 
good  roads,  of  which  the  turnpike-road  from  Stirling 
to  St.  Andrew's  passes  through  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  town. 

The  parish  is  about  four  miles  in  length,  from  north- 
east to  south-west,  and  is  from  one  to  two  miles  in 
breadth,  comprising  about  2900  acres,  of  which  220  are 
woodland  and  plantations,  90  undivided  common,  and 
the  remainder  arable  land  and  pasture.  The  sur- 
face is  varied;  in  the  south-east,  an  extensive  and  richly 
fertile  plain  ;  and  in  other  parts,  rising  to  a  considerable 
elevation.  The  soil,  in  the  level  lands,  is  a  deep  loam, 
producing  abundant  crops  of  all  kinds  ;  and  the  system 
of  agriculture  has  been  brought  to  a  state  of  great  per- 
fection, under  the  auspices  of  the  Auchtermuchty  Agri- 
cultural Society,  which  holds  an  annual  meeting  in  the 
town,  on  the  first  Monday  in  October,  for  the  distribu- 
tion of  premiums.  The  lands  have  been  drained  and 
inclosed  ;  the  farm-buildings  are  substantial  and  well- 
arranged  ;  the  pastures  are  luxuriantly  fertile,  and  the 
cattle,  which  are  chiefly  of  the  Fifeshire  black  breed, 
bring  a  good  price  in  the  market.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £6845.  The  substratum  is  mostly 
Vol.  I.— 81 


whinstone,  which  forms  the  basis  of  the  higher  grounds  ; 
the  plantations,  mainly  of  modern  growth,  are  in  a 
thriving  state.  Myres  Castle  is  the  principal  mansion 
in  the  parish,  and  was,  for  many  years,  the  seat  of  the 
Moncrieffs,  who  disposed  of  the  estate  a  short  time 
ago  :  the  building,  to  which  a  considerable  addition 
was  made  about  the  year  1830,  is  finely  situated  in 
a  park  of  about  thirty  acres.  Bellevue  and  Southfield 
are  also  pleasant  residences.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of 
Cupar  and  synod  of  Fife ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£253.  11.  3.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £30 
per  annum ;  patron,  Mrs.  Tyndal  Bruce,  of  Falkland. 
The  church,  a  plain  building  erected  in  17S5,  was  en- 
larged by  Mrs.  Bruce,  in  1S37,  at  a  cost  of  £500,  and 
now  contains  1100  sittings.  There  are  places  of  wor- 
ship for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  the  United  Seces- 
sion, and  the  Relief  Synod.  The  parochial  school  is 
attended  by  a  considerable  number  of  children ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  a  house  and 
garden,  and  the  fees. 

AUCHTERNUD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Fod- 
derty,  county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty;  containing  115 
inhabitants. 

AUCHTERTOOL,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kirk- 
caldy, county  of  Fife,  4  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Kirk- 
caldy ;  containing,  with  the  village  of  Newbigging,  530 
inhabitants,  of  whom  239  are  in  the  village  of  Auchter- 
tool.  This  place  is  supposed  to  derive  its  name,  signify- 
ing, in  the  Gaelic  language,  "  the  high  grounds  on  the 
river  Tiel,"  from  its  elevated  situation  with  respect  to 
that  stream.  The  parish  is  about  three  miles  in  length, 
and  one  mile  in  average  breadth,  and  comprises  about 
2500  acres,  of  which  1700  are  arable,  and  the  remainder 
pasture,  and  waste  land  capable  of  being  brought  into 
cultivation.  The  surface  is  varied,  and,  towards  the  west, 
rises  into  a  range  of  steep  acclivities  called  the  Cullalo 
hills,  the  highest  of  which  has  an  elevation  of  750  feet 
above  the  sea,  commanding  an  extensive  prospect  over  a 
richly-cultivated  tract  of  country;  but  the  scenery  within 
the  parish  is  almost  destitute  of  beauty,  from  the  want 
of  wood.  The  river  Tiel  has  its  source  here ;  and  the 
parish  is  also  intersected  by  two  streamlets  which, 
though  very  small,  frequently,  after  continued  rain,  are 
greatly  increased,  and,  in  their  course  through  a  narrow 
channel,  form  beautiful  cascades,  of  which  one,  near  the 
end  of  a  deep  and  narrow  dell,  is  truly  picturesque. 
Near  the  ancient  mansion  of  Camilla,  formerly  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Countess  of  Moray,  is  an  extensive  loch, 
bounded  on  the  north  side  by  a  precipitous  eminence, 
covered  with  furze;  and  near  it,  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
mansion  of  Hallyards,  still  retaining  traces  of  baronial 
grandeur,  with  some  portion  of  the  plantations  of  the 
demesne,  forming  a  romantic  feature  in  the  scenery  of 
the  lake.  This  sheet  of  water  is  about  eighteen  acres  in 
extent,  and  abounds  with  perch,  eels,  and  pike ;  its 
greatest  depth  is  22  feet. 

The  soil,  in  the  southern  parts,  is  a  rich  loam,  vary- 
ing from  one  foot  to  five  feet  in  depth  ;  and,  in  the 
north  and  western  parts,  clay,  which,  by  draining  and 
good  management,  has  been  rendered  nearly  as  fertile 
as  the  loam  ;  and  a  moss,  of  which  a  large  portion  is  of 
great  depth,  and  apparently  incapable  of  being  brought 
into  profitable  cultivation.  The  chief  crops  are,  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  potatoes,  and  turnips ;  the  system  of  agri- 

M 


A  ULD 


A  U  LD 


culture  is  in  a  very  improved  state,  and  draining  has 
lately  been  carried  on  with  success.  Considerable  at- 
tention has  been  paid  to  the  rearing  and  feeding  of 
cattle,  which  are  generally  of  the  black  Fifeshire  breed, 
with  some  few  of  the  Teeswater,  lately  introduced  ;  there 
are  a  few  sheep,  all  of  the  Cheviot  breed.  The  sub- 
stratum is  mostly  whinstone,  freestone,  and  limestone  : 
the  whinstone  is  quarried,  chiefly  for  mending  the 
roads,  and  occasionally  for  building ;  the  freestone  is  of 
very  inferior  quality,  and  is  seldom  worked  ;  the  lime- 
stone, which  is  mainly  found  on  the  lands  belonging  to 
Lord  Moray  and  Captain  Wemyss,  is  quarried  only  by 
the  tenants  for  their  own  immediate  use.  The  village 
of  Auchtertool  is  neatly  built ;  the  houses  are  princi- 
pally of  stone  and  lime,  and  those  of  more  recent  erec- 
tion are  covered  with  blue  slate  ;  a  parochial  library 
has  been  established,  and  a  savings'  bank.  There  was 
formerly  a  brewery  of  porter,  ale,  and  table-beer,  in 
the  village,  for  the  supply  of  the  neighbourhood ;  it 
was  long  in  very  great  repute,  and  a  large  quantity  of 
the  ale  was  sent  to  Kirkcaldy,  and  thence  shipped  for 
the  London  market.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Kirkcaldy  and  synod  of  Fife,  and  in  the  patronage  of 
the  Earl  of  Moray ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £157. 18. 10., 
with  a  manse  in  the  later  English  style,  and  the  glebe  is 
valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The  church,  which  was  sub- 
stantially repaired  in  1S33,  is  situated  within  a  mile 
of  the  village,  and  is  adapted  for  a  congregation  of 
about  300  persons.  The  parochial  school  affords  a 
liberal  course  of  instruction ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£33.  6.  8.,  with  £2S  fees,  and  a  good  dwelling-house 
and  garden.  At  the  west  end  of  the  loch  of  Camilla,  is 
a  mineral  spring. 

AUCKINGILL,  a  township,  in  the  parish  of  Canis- 
bay,  county  of  Caithness  ;   containing  209  inhabitants. 

AULDEARN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Nairn,  2f 
miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from  Nairn ;  containing  1466  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  351  are  in  the  village.  This  place  is  said 
by  some  to  have  derived  its  name,  in  the  Gaelic  Alt-Em, 
from  a  brook  flowing  through  it  into  the  river  Nairn, 
and  of  which  the  banks  are  thickly  planted  with  alder- 
trees  ;  it  was  originally  the  head  of  the  deanery  of  Mo- 
ra)', and  of  much  greater  extent  till  the  year  1650, 
when  parts  of  it  were  annexed  to  the  parishes  of  Nairn, 
Cawdor,  and  Ardclach.  In  1645,  a  sanguinary  battle 
took  place  near  the  village,  between  the  forces  under  the 
Marquess  of  Montrose,  and  a  detachment  of  the  army 
of  the  Covenanters,  commanded  by  Hurry,  and  consist- 
ing of  about  4000  men,  when  the  former,  after  an  ob- 
stinate conflict,  obtained  a  decisive  victory.  About  800 
of  the  Covenanters  fell,  and  a  considerable  number  of 
the  forces  of  the  marquess ;  the  slain  on  both  sides 
were  interred  after  the  battle,  in  a  field  to  the  south- 
west of  the  village,  and  the  spot,  which  has  been  since 
planted,  is  surrounded  with  a  moat.  The  tarish  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Moray  Frith,  here  about 
seven  miles  broad,  along  the  coast  of  which  it  extends 
for  four  miles  ;  and  is,  from  north  to  south,  6|  miles  in 
length,  and  about  5  miles  in  breadth,  from  east  to  west, 
comprising  13,6S0  acres,  of  which  477S  are  arable,  5111 
meadow  and  pasture,  3603  woodland  and  plantations, 
and  198  under  water.  The  surface  for  nearly  three 
miles  from  the  shore,  though  varying  in  elevation,  is 
low  ;  it  thence  rises  to  a  considerable  height,  for  nearly 
two  miles,  where  it  is  intersected  by  the  valley  of  the 


Muckle  brook,  beyond  which  it  attains  a  more  abrupt 
and  precipitous  elevation.  About  half  a  mile  from  the 
shore,  to  the  west,  is  an  island  of  sand  called  the  Bar, 
which  is  formed  at  high  water,  and  is  constantly  chang- 
ing its  position  westward  ;  and  opposite  to  it,  are  two 
hills  of  sand,  about  100  feet  in  height,  which  are  con- 
tinually changing  their  position  towards  the  east,  with- 
out any  apparent  alteration  in  their  form. 

The  soil,  in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  parish,  is 
luxuriantly  rich  ;  in  the  south-western,  of  very  infe- 
rior quality  ;  and  in  the  north-east  and  north-west,  a 
heavy  cold  loam.  There  are  two  lakes  of  considerable 
extent,  of  which  one,  called  Loch  Lithy,  covering  an  area 
of  40  acres,  produces  abundance  of  rich  marl,  and  the 
other,  Loch  Loy,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  parish, 
is  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad. 
There  is  also  a  large  tract  of  moss  called  the  Moss  of 
Inshoch,  in  which  vast  quantities  of  roots,  and  some- 
times entire  fir-trees,  are  imbedded.  The  crops  are, 
grain  of  all  kinds,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the  system  of 
agriculture  has  been  much  improved  ;  waste  land  has 
been  drained,  and  brought  into  profitable  cultivation, 
and  much  of  the  inferior  soil  been  rendered  more  fertile, 
by  the  use  of  marl,  lime,  and  bone-dust  manure.  The 
cattle  are  of  the  Highland  breed,  and  the  sheep  of  the 
white-faced  kind.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £614S.  The  plantations  are  chiefly  Scotch 
fir,  larch,  oak,  beech,  elm,  and  ash,  of  which  three  last 
there  are  some  fine  specimens  at  Boath  and  Lethen ; 
and  to  the  east  of  Inshoch,  is  a  thriving  plantation  of 
birch.  The  substratum  is  principally  sandstone,  some 
of  which  is  of  excellent  quality  ;  and  from  a  quarry  on 
the  lands  of  Brodie,  was  ra  ed  the  st^ne  for  the  erec- 
tion of  the  towers  of  the  suspension  bridge  over  the 
river  Findhorn,  near  Forres.  Near  Boath,  is  found  a 
black  stone,  which,  on  the  application  of  fire,  emits  a 
flame  ;  and  at  Clune,  on  the  lands  of  James  C.  Brodie, 
Esq.,  are  nodules  of  limestone,  in  which  are  fossils  of 
various  kinds  of  fishes. 

The  prevailing  scenery  is  of  pleasing  character,  em- 
bellished with  plantations  ;  and  the  views  obtained  from 
the  higher  grounds,  are  extensive  and  richly  diversified, 
commanding  the  wide  expanse  of  the  Frith,  the  rocky 
coasts  and  lofty  mountains  of  Ross,  in  combination 
with  those  of  Sutherland,  and  numerous  other  deeply 
interesting  features.  Lethen,  the  seat  of  Mr.  Brodie, 
is  a  spacious  and  handsome  mansion,  finely  situated  in 
the  valley  of  the  Muckle  burn,  and  consisting  of  a  centre 
and  two  wings,  erected  about  the  commencement  of  the 
last  century  ;  the  grounds  are  tastefully  laid  out,  and 
the  house  is  embosomed  in  a  plantation  of  venera- 
ble beech-trees,  and  crowns  the  summit  of  a  thickly- 
wooded  acclivity  rising  from  the  stream.  Boath,  the 
seat  of  Sir  Frederick  William  Dunbar,  Bart.,  is  an 
elegant  mansion  of  freestone,  erected  in  1830,  and 
beautifully  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Auldearn,  near 
the  junction  of  the  two  branches  of  that  stream.  The 
village  is  neatly  built,  and  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  per- 
sons engaged  in  agriculture.  Fairs  are  held  for  cattle 
and  horses  on  the  first  Wednesday  after  the  19th  of 
June,  and  the  first  Tuesday  after  the  Inverness  fair  at 
Martinmas,  for  agricultural  produce;  the  first  of  these 
is  called  St.  Colin's  market,  and  the  latter  St.  John's, 
following  which  are  two  other  fairs  held,  respectively, 
a  fortnight  and  a  month  after.     The  turnpike-road  from 


A  V  O  C 


A  V  O  C 


Elgin  to  Inverness  passes,  for  four  miles,  through  the 
parish  ;  and  further  facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  good  roads  and  bridges,  in  almost  every  direction. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Nairn  and  synod  of  Moray  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £'241.  5.  4.,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £12  per  annum  ;  patron,  Mr.  Brodie, 
of  Brodie.  The  church,  built  in  1/51,  and  improved  in 
1S16,  is  a  neat  structure,  situated  close  to  the  village, 
and  contains  635  sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship 
for  Free  Church  and  United  Secession  congregations. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  to  about  130 
scholars  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £36.  7-  2.,  includ- 
ing au  allowance  for  a  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £10 
per  annum.  On  the  higher  grounds  in  the  parish,  are 
some  Druidical  remains,  of  which  the  most  perfect,  near 
the  old  castle  of  Moyness,  consists  of  two  concentric 
circles,  with  a  slightly-rocking  stone  weighing  about 
four  tons  ;  and  on  a  small  eminence  designated  the 
Black  Hillock,  has  been  found  a  kistvaen,  containing  a 
human  skeleton  and  several  urns  filled  with  ashes.  On 
a  farm  called  Knock-na-Gillan,  the  Cummings,  of  Rait, 
once  seized  thirteen  of  the  clan  of  Mackintosh,  who  were 
passing  through  the  parish,  and  put  twelve  of  them  to 
death  ;  and  some  time  after,  these  hostile  clans  meeting 
at  the  castle  of  Rait,  in  the  parish  of  Nairn,  the  Mack- 
intoshes, in  retaliation,  put  the  whole  clan  of  the  Cum- 
mings to  the  sword,  and  burnt  their  castle.  About  a 
mile  to  the  north  of  the  church,  are  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  castle  of  Inshoch,  the  seat  of  the  Hays,  of  Loch 
Loy ;  and  a  mile  to  the  east  of  it,  were,  till  lately,  the 
remains  of  the  house  of  Penick,  the  residence  of  the 
deans  of  Moray. 

AULDFIELD,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  district,  form- 
ing part  of  the  town  of  Pollockshaws,  in  the  parish 
of  Eastwood,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew  ; 
containing  3252  inhabitants. — See  Pollockshaws. 

AUSKERRY  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Stronsay, 
county  of  Orkney.  It  is  situated  about  two  miles  to 
the  south  of  the  island  of  Stronsay,  and  is  small  and 
uninhabited,  and  appropriated  to  the  pasturage  of  cattle  : 
there  are  some  remains  of  a  chapel,  and  the  ruins  of  a 
dwelling  which  bears  the  name  of  the  Monk's  House. 
Kelp  is  manufactured  in  considerable  quantity. 

AVOCH,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, if  mile  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from  Fortrose;  contain- 
ing 1931  inhabitants,  of  whom  936  are  in  the  village. 
This  place  apparently  derives  its  name,  signifying,  in  the 
Gaelic  language,  "  shallow  water,"  from  the  small  river 
on  which  it  is  situated.  The  parish  is  bounded  on  the 
south  and  south-east  by  the  Moray  Frith,  and  on  the 
south-west  by  the  bay  of  Munlochy ;  and  is  about  four 
miles  and  a  quarter  in  length,  and  three  miles  in  ex- 
treme breadth,  comprising  6198  acres,  of  which  about 
2500  are  arable,  1500  woodland  and  plantations,  and 
the  remainder  meadow,  pasture,  and  waste.  The  sur- 
face, though  generally  level,  with  a  gentle  acclivity  from 
the  shore  of  the  Frith,  contains  a  portion  of  the  Mil- 
buy  hill,  which  has  an  elevation  of  nearly  500  feet ;  and 
is  also  intersected,  in  the  lower  parts,  by  several  pro- 
minent ridges.  The  river  from  which  it  takes  its  name, 
rises  within  its  limits,  near  a  pool  called  the  Littlemil- 
stick,  and,  after  a  beautifully  winding  course,  in  which 
it  turns  several  mills,  falls  into  the  Frith  near  the  vil- 
lage. The  coast  extends  for  about  three  miles,  and  is 
83 


bounded  by  a  high  ridge  of  rocks,  projecting  slightly  in 
two  points,  between  which  is  a  beach  of  sand  and  gravel. 
The  soil,  which  comprises  almost  every  variety,  has 
been  greatly  improved,  and  the  pastures  are  mostly  rich; 
the  crops  are,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips, 
with  the  usual  grasses.  Considerable  attention  has  been, 
for  some  time,  paid  to  the  rearing  of  live  stock  ;  and 
the  farms  have  been  newly  divided,  in  portions  adapted 
to  the  ability  and  resources  of  the  various  tenants,  by 
which  a  much  better  system  of  management  has  been 
introduced.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£3658.  The  substrata  are  generally  of  the  red  sand- 
stone formation,  interspersed  with  rocks  of  granite,  and 
there  are  indications  of  limestone,  though  none  has  yet 
been  wrought  ;  freestone  quarries  occur  in  several  places, 
from  one  of  which,  of  a  deep  red  colour,  it  is  supposed 
that  the  stone  was  taken  for  the  erection  of  the  cathe- 
dral church  of  Chanonry.  Rosehaugh,  the  seat  of 
Sir  James  J.  R.  Mackenzie,  of  Scat  well,  Bart.,  is  au 
elegant  modern  mansion,  beautifully  situated  on  an  emi- 
nence about  half  a  mile  from  the  sea,  and  embellished 
with  woods  and  thriving  plantations.  Avoch  House,  a 
handsome  mansion,  embosomed  in  romantic  scenery, 
was  destroyed  in  1S33,  by  an  accidental  fire  :  Bay  Cot- 
tage is  situated  near,  and  derives  its  name  from,  the 
bay  of  Munlochy. 

The  village  is  on  the  river  Avoch,  near  its  influx  into 
the  Frith,  which  is  here  about  four  miles  in  breadth, 
and,  between  the  promontory  of  Fort-George  on  the 
east,  and  the  town  of  Inverness  on  the  west,  has  the 
appearance  of  a  beautiful  inland  lake.  The  inhabitants 
are  chiefly  employed  in  fisheries,  in  which  nine  boats, 
having  each  a  crew  of  ten  men,  are  engaged  in  taking 
haddock,  whiting,  cod,  and  other  fish,  on  the  coasts  of 
Sutherland  and  Caithness ;  in  the  Frith  are  found,  also, 
oysters,  flounders,  and  halibut.  During  the  season, 
commencing  about  the  middle  of  July,  the  fishermen  of 
this  place  send  thirty-five  boats  to  the  herring-fishery  at 
Caithness,  from  which  they  return  with  cargoes  some- 
times highly  productive,  of  which,  after  supplying  the 
neighbourhood,  the  remainder  is  sent  to  Inverness 
market.  In  the  intervals  of  the  fishing  season,  the 
inhabitants  are  employed  in  making  nets,  not  only  for 
their  own  use,  but  also  for  the  fishing-stations  in  the 
north  and  west  Highlands.  The  harbour,  which  is 
formed  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  affords  good  ancho- 
rage and  shelter  for  the  boats,  and  a  substantial  pier 
has  been  constructed,  at  which  vessels  of  considerable 
burthen  land  cargoes  of  coal  from  Newcastle  ;  it  is  also 
safely  accessible  to  trading  vessels,  which,  from  London, 
Leith,  Aberdeen,  and  Dundee,  regularly  touch  at  the 
port.  There  are  two  salmon-fisheries,  one  at  Rosehaugh, 
and  the  other  on  the  estate  of  Avoch  ;  and  in  Mun- 
lochy bay,  mussels  are  found  in  profusion.  Facility  of 
communication  is  afforded  by  the  turnpike-road  from 
Fort-George  ferry  to  the  western  coast  of  Ross-shire, 
which  passes  through  the  village  and  the  southern  part 
of  the  parish,  leading  to  Kessock  ferry  on  the  west,  and 
to  the  town  of  Dingwall  on  the  north-west. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Chanonry  and  synod  of 
Ross ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £249.  9.  6.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £~  per  annum  ;  patron, 
Sir  J.  J.  R.  Mackenzie.  The  church,  a  neat  plain  struc- 
ture, erected  in  1670,  and  repaired  in  1833,  is  situated 

M  2 


AVON 


AVON 


close  to  the  village,  and  contains  600  sittings.  There  is 
a  place  of  worship  for  Independents.  The  parochial 
school  is  well  conducted  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£30,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average 
between  £20  and  £30  per  annum.  There  are  some 
slight  remains  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Avoch,  consisting 
chiefly  of  the  site,  on  a  rocky  knoll  on  the  northern  pro- 
montory of  the  bay  of  Munlochy,  and  distinguished  hy 
the  rubbish  of  ruined  walls  which  surrounded  the  sum- 
mit of  the  hill.  It  was  the  residence  of  the  lord  of 
Moray,  who  died  in  1338  ;  it  subsequently  passed  to  the 
earls  of  Ross,  on  whose  forfeiture  it  was  annexed  to  the 
crown,  and  was  granted  by  James  III.  to  his  second 
son,  the  Marquess  ofOrmond,  from  which  circumstance 
the  knoll  was  called  Ormond's  Mount.  The  lower  story, 
or  dungeon,  of  the  tower  of  Arkendeith,  supposed  to  have 
been  built  by  the  Bruces,  of  Kinloss,  is  also  remaining. 
Chambers,  of  Ormond,  the  Scottish  historian,  was  born 
in  the  parish  ;  and  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  who  dis- 
covered the  river  in  America  which  is  called  by  his 
name,  resided  for  many  years  at  Avoch  House,  and  was 
interred  here. 

AVONDALE,  a  parish,  in  the  Middle  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark  ;  containing,  with  the  market-town  of 
Strathaven,  61  SO  inhabitants.  The  proper  name  of  this 
parish,  which,  from  its  including  the  market-town,  has 
been  called  sometimes  Strathaven,  and,  by  contraction, 
Straveu,  is  Avondale,  an  appellation  derived  from  its 
situation  on  the  river  Avon,  by  which  it  is  divided  into 
two  nearly  equal  parts.  The  barony  of  Avondale  was 
anciently  the  property  of  the  Baird  family,  and  subse- 
quently belonged  to  the  Earl  of  Douglas,  on  whose 
forfeiture,  in  1455,  it  was  granted,  by  James  III.,  to 
Andrew  Stewart,  whom  he  created  Lord  Avondale,  and 
who  exchanged  it  for  the  barony  of  Ochiltree,  with  Sir 
James  Hamilton,  in  whose  family  it  has  ever  since 
remained.  The  place  has  derived  some  historical  cele- 
brity from  the  defeat  of  the  troops  under  General 
Claverhouse,  at  Drumclog,  by  a  congregation  of  Cove- 
nanters, who  had  assembled  there  for  public  worship,  and, 
anticipating  an  attack  by  the  former,  who  were  stationed 
at  Strathaven,  had  provided  themselves  with  arms  for 
their  defence.  On  the  approach  of  Claverhouse,  with 
his  dragoons,  the  armed  part  of  the  congregation  went 
forward  to  meet  him,  and,  taking  post  on  level  ground, 
having  before  them  a  rivulet,  over  which  the  general 
had  to  pass,  and  of  which  the  bank  was,  from  its  soft- 
ness, impassable  to  the  cavalry,  defeated  his  forces  with 
considerable  loss,  the  general  himself  escaping  with 
difficulty.  In  1820,  the  place  was  disturbed  by  a  few 
rioters,  under  the  command  of  James  Wilson,  who, 
upon  false  intelligence  that  a  rebellion  against  the 
government  had  broken  out  in  Glasgow,  marched  thither 
to  join  the  insurgents ;  but  they  were  instantly  dis- 
persed, and  their  leader,  who  was  made  prisoner,  was 
brought  to  the  scaffold,  and  suffered  the  penalty  of  his 
rebellion. 

The  parish  comprises  about  32,000  acres,  of  which 
15,000  are  arable,  and  the  remainder,  with  the  exception 
of  some  tracts  of  moss  and  marsh  land,  formerly 
more  extensive,  is  in  pasture.  The  surface  is  generally 
level,  rising  gently  from  the  hanks  of  the  river  towards 
the  south  and  west,  and  partially  intersected  with  ridges 
and  small  hills,  of  which  the  highest,  towards  the  bor- 
ders of  Ayrshire,  scarcely  attain  an  elevation  of  more 
84 


than  900  feet  above  the  sea.  Of  these,  the  most  pro- 
minent are,  Kype's  rigg,  and  Hawkwood  and  Dungivel 
hills,  with  the  picturesque  hut  smaller  eminences  of 
Floors  hills  and  Kirkhill.  The  Avon,  which  rises  on 
the  confines  of  Ayrshire,  in  its  course  through  the 
parish  receives  numerous  tributary  streams,  of  which 
the  chief  are,  the  Cadder  and  Pomilion  on  the  north, 
and  the  Givel,  the  Lochan,  and  the  Kype,  on  the  south  ; 
the  waters  of  the  Kype,  about  a  mile  to  the  south  of 
the  town,  are  precipitated  from  a  height  of  nearly  fifty 
feet,  forming  an  interesting  fall,  and  in  all  these  streams 
trout  is  abundant.  Salmon  were  formerly  found  in 
the  Avon,  even  at  its  source  ;  but  latterly,  their  pro- 
gress upward  has  been  intercepted.  The  scenery  of 
the  parish,  though  destitute  of  ornamental  wood,  is 
pleasingly  varied,  and,  in  many  parts,  picturesque. 

The  soil  is  generally  fertile  ;  the  chief  crops  are, 
oats  and  barley,  with  some  wheat ;  potatoes  are  also 
raised  in  great  quantities,  and  are  sold  for  seed  ;  but, 
though  the  soil  is  extremely  favourable  for  turnips,  they 
are  not  much  cultivated.  There  are  numerous  dairy- 
farms,  and  the  pastures  throughout  the  parish  are  luxu- 
riant ;  great  numbers  of  cows,  principally  of  the  Ayrshire 
breed,  are  pastured  here,  and  there  are,  at  present, 
not  less  than  2000  acres  of  undivided  common.  Many 
improvements  have  been  made  in  draining;  and  the 
whole  of  Strathaven  moss,  comprising  above  200  acres 
of  unprof, table  land,  has  been  reclaimed,  affording  more 
valuable  crops  than  any  other  portion  of  the  parish. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £24,785. 
Whinstone  abounds,  as  does  also  ironstone ;  and  lime- 
stone is  found  in  several  parts,  and  burnt  for  manure ; 
coal  is  also  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  lime- 
kilns, in  considerable  quantity,  and  of  a  quality  sufficient 
for  burning  the  lime,  but  not  adapted  to  household 
use.  The  moors  abound  with  grouse  and  other  game, 
and  the  Duke  of  Hamilton  has  an  extensive  tract  of 
pasture  land  for  sheep,  which  is  kept  for  grouse 
shooting  ;  partridges  are  also  numerous  in  the  lower 
lands,  and  plovers  and  wild  ducks  are  every  where 
abundant.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton 
and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage 
of  the  Duke  of  Hamilton ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£305.  2.  6.,  with  a  manse,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at 
£24  per  annum.  There  is  also  an  assistant  minister, 
appointed  by  his  grace,  to  whom  a  stipend  of  500  marks 
is  paid,  according  to  the  will  of  a  late  duchess  ;  he 
visits  the  sick,  and  catechises  the  parishioners.  The 
church,  erected  in  1772>  >s  a  plain  edifice,  with  an  un- 
finished spire,  and  much  too  small  for  the  population, 
being  adapted  for  a  congregation  only  of  S00  persons. 
Under  the  auspices  of  the  present  minister,  an  additional 
church  has  been  erected,  at  an  expense  of  £1400,  for 
900  persons,  to  which  a  district  called  East  Strathaven 
has  been  assigned,  and  which  is  supplied  by  a  minister 
appointed  by  the  congregation.  There  is  a  place  of  wor- 
ship for  members  of  the  Associate  Seceding  Synod,  and 
there  are  two  for  members  of  the  Relief  Church.  The 
parochial  school  affords  an  efficient  education ;  the 
master's  salary  is  £34.  4.  4.,  with  £36  from  the  fees, 
and  a  good  house  and  garden.  There  is  also  a  parochial 
school  for  East  Strathaven.  Some  remains  of  a  Roman 
road  may  be  traced  on  the  south  side  of  the  river 
Avon,  passing  by  the  farm  of  Walesley ;  and  on  the 
lands  of  Gennerhill,  small  coins    and   Roman  sandals 


AYR 


AYR 


Seal   and  Arms. 


have  been  discovered.  Roman  coins  have  also  been 
recently  found  on  the  lands  of  Torfoot,  near  Loudoun 
hill,  supposed  to  have  been  the  line  of  the  Romans,  in 
their  route  through  the  Caledonian  forest,  towards  the 
western  coast. 

AYR,  a  sea-port,  burgh, 
and  market-town,  in  the  dis- 
trict of  Kyle,  county  of 
Ayr,  of  which  it  is  thecapital, 
77  miles  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from 
Edinburgh,  and  34  (S.  S.  W.) 
from  Glasgow ;  containing 
8264  inhabitants.  This  place 
derives  its  name  from  the 
river  on  which  it  is  situated, 
and  appears  to  have  attained 
a  considerable  degree  of  note, 
at  a  very  early  period.  A 
castle  was  erected  here  by  William  the  Lion,  to  which 
reference  is  made  in  the  charter  subsequently  granted  to 
the  town  by  that  monarch  ;  and  from  the  importance  of 
its  situation,  it  was  besieged  and  taken  by  Edward  I,. 
during  his  invasion  of  Scotland.  In  12S9,  Robert  Bruce, 
on  the  hostile  approach  of  an  English  army  towards  the 
town,  finding  himself  unable  to  withstand  their  progress, 
set  fire  to  the  castle,  to  prevent  its  falling  into  their  hands; 
and  at  present,  there  are  no  vestiges  of  it  remaining. 
During  the  usurpation  of  Cromwell,  a  very  spacious  and 
strongly-fortified  citadel  was  erected  here,  as  a  military 
station  for  his  troops,  for  the  maintenance  and  security 
of  the  town  and  harbour  of  Ayr,  which,  at  that  time, 
were  of  great  importance,  as  enabling  him  to  hold  the 
western  and  southern  parts  of  the  county  in  subjec- 
tion ;  and  of  this  fort,  the  greater  part  is  still  in  good 
preservation. 

The  town  is  finely  situated  on  a  wide  level  plain,  on 
the  sea-coast,  and  at  the  head  of  the  beautiful  bay  of 
Ayr,  by  which  it  is  bounded  on  the  west.  The  more 
ancient  part  consists  of  houses  irregularly  built,  and  of 
antique  appearance ;  but  that  which  is  of  more  modern 
origin,  contains  numerous  handsome  ranges  of  buildings, 
among  which  may  be  noticed  Wellington-square,  and 
a  spacious  and  well-built  street  leading  from  it  to  the 
new  bridge.  Very  great  improvements  have  been  made 
in  the  aspect  of  the  town,  which  is  seen  to  great  ad- 
vantage from  the  higher  grounds,  and  more  especially 
on  the  approach  from  the  south  ;  many  agreeable  villas 
have  been  erected,  and  most  of  the  modern  houses  in 
the  vicinity  are  embellished  with  shrubs  and  trees.  The 
principal  streets  are  well  paved,  and  lighted  with  gas, 
and  the  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  with  water, 
partly  from  numerous  wells  opened  in  convenient  situ- 
ations, and  partly  from  a  softer  spring,  in  Carrick,  by 
pipes  laid  down  for  that  purpose.  The  environs  are 
extremely  pleasing,  abounding  with  richly- diversified 
scenery,  embracing  fine  views  of  the  sea,  and  many  in- 
teresting features  ;  and  there  are  two  bridges  over  the 
river  Ayr,  of  which  that  last  erected  is  a  very  hand- 
some structure,  affording  communication  with  the 
towns  of  Newton-upon-Ayr  and  Wallace-town,  which 
are  both  of  comparatively  recent  origin.  The  beach, 
which  is  a  fine  level  sand,  is  much  frequented  as  a 
promenade,  and  contributes  greatly  to  render  the  town 
desirable  as  a  place  of  residence.  There  are  two  libra- 
ries supported  by  subscription,  containing  good  collec- 
85 


tions  of  standard  and  periodical  works,  and  newsrooms 
well  supplied  with  journals  ;  and  a  mechanics' institution 
was  established  in  1825,  to  which  is  attached  a  library 
of  more  than  3000  volumes,  for  the  increase  of  which 
a  specific  sum  is  annually  appropriated.  Races  are 
annually  held  by  the  Western  Meeting,  in  the  first  week 
in  September,  on  an  excellent  course  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  town,  comprising  about  fifty  acres,  in- 
closed with  a  stone  wall ;  and  the  members  of  the 
Caledonian  Hunt  hold  a  meeting  here  once  in  five 
years.  Two  packs  of  fox-hounds,  and  a  pack  of  har- 
riers, are  kept  in  the  neighbourhood ;  and  assemblies 
are  held  in  an  elegant  and  spacious  suite  of  rooms, 
admirably  adapted  for  that  purpose,  in  the  new  Buildings, 
a  stately  edifice  recently  erected,  and  embellished  with 
a  spire  rising  to  the  height  of  226  feet ;  they  contain,  in 
addition  to  the  assembly-rooms,  two  large  newsrooms, 
rooms  for  town's  meetings,  and  various  apartments  for 
public  purposes.  In  the  High-street,  is  a  handsome 
structure  in  the  early  English  style,  lately  erected  on 
the  site  of  an  ancient  building  called  Wallace's  Tower ; 
it  is  115  feet  in  height,  and  is  adorned,  in  the  front, 
with  a  well-sculptured  statue  of  Wallace ;  it  contains 
a  good  clock,  and  forms  a  conspicuous  object  in  the 
distant  view  of  the  town. 

On  the  summit  of  the  bank  of  the  river  Doon,  is  a 
stately  monument  to  the  honour  of  the  poet  Burns, 
erected  at  an  expense  of  £2000,  raised  by  subscription, 
and  consisting  of  a  circular  building,  rising  from  a  tri- 
angular basement  fifteen  feet  in  height,  to  an  elevation 
of  more  than  sixty  feet.  It  is  surrounded  by  nine 
Corinthian  pillars  with  an  enriched  cornice,  supporting 
a  cupola,  which  is  surmounted  by  a  gilt  tripod  resting 
upon  dolphins  ;  and  a  window  of  stained  glass  gives 
light  to  a  circular  apartment  eighteen  feet  in  diameter, 
in  which  are,  a  portrait  of  the  poet,  an  elegant  edition  of 
his  works,  and  various  paintings,  illustrative  of  the 
principal  scenes  and  descriptions  in  his  poems.  Oppo- 
site to  the  entrance,  is  a  semicircular  recess  decorated 
with  columns  of  the  Doric  order,  intended  for  the  re- 
ception of  his  statue  ;  and  in  the  grounds,  comprising 
an  area  of  about  two  acres,  disposed  in  gravel-walks  and 
shrubberies,  and  embellished  with  plantations  of  every 
variety  of  forest  trees,  are  placed  the  well-known  statues 
of  Tarn  O'Shanter  and  Souter  Johnny,  executed  by 
Thorn,  and  exhibited,  previously  to  their  being  deposited 
here,  in  almost  every  town  of  Great  Britain.  The  Ayr- 
shire Horticultural  and  Agricultural  Society  was  established 
in  1815,  under  the  auspices  and  patronage  of  the  late 
Lord  Eglinton,  for  the  distribution  of  prizes  for  the  best 
specimens  of  flowers,  fruit,  and  vegetables,  and  for 
improvements  in  husbandry  and  agricultural  imple- 
ments ;  exhibitions  are  annually  held,  and  attached  to 
the  institution  is  a  library.  A  Medical  Association  has 
also  been  founded  by  members  of  that  profession  resi- 
dent in  the  town  and  neighbourhood,  the  library  of 
which  contains  a  selection  of  the  most  valuable  works 
on  medical  literature.  The  Barracks,  an  extensive  range 
of  building  near  the  harbour,  and  pleasantly  situated 
on  a  fine  level  plain,  are  adapted  for  the  reception  of  a 
regiment  of  infantry,  and,  during  the  late  war,  were 
fully  occupied  by  the  military  stationed  here  ;  but,  since 
the  peace,  they  have  been  unoccupied,  and  it  was  at  one 
time  in  contemplation  to  appropriate  them  to  some 
other  purpose. 


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Notwithstanding  the  very  advantageous  situation  of 
the  town,  in  the  midst  of  a  richly-cultivated  district 
abounding  in  mineral  wealth,  and  commanding  exten- 
sive means  of  communication,  and  facilities  of  convey- 
ance, both  by  sea  and  land,  the  town  has  never  been 
much  distinguished  for  its  manufactures  :  the  prin- 
cipal manufacture  carried  on  here,  is  that  of  shoes, 
which  has,  for  some  years,  very  much  diminished, 
affording  employment,  at  present,  to  little  more  than 
200  persons.  The  working  of  muslins,  in  varieties  of 
patterns,  for  the  Glasgow  manufacturers,  is  carried  on 
to  a  considerable  extent,  occupying  about  300  persons, 
at  their  own  dwellings.  "Weaving  with  the  hand-loom, 
for  manufacturers  of  distant  towns,  employs  about  150 
persons;  and  tanning  and  currying  of  leather  is  carried 
on,  but  on  a  limited  scale.  A  spacious  factory  for  the 
spinning  of  wool  and  the  manufacture  of  carpets,  has 
been  recently  established  by  Mr.  Templeton,  which  ori- 
ginated in  a  small  establishment  for  the  spinning  of 
cotton-yarn  ;  since  its  application  to  the  present  use, 
the  building  has  been  enlarged,  and  supplied  with  the 
most  improved  machinery  of  every  kind,  and  the  con- 
cern, at  present,  affords  employment  to  200  persons. 
A  mill  for  carding,  spinning,  and  weaving  wool,  for 
plaids  and  blankets,  has  been  also  erected  on  the  bank 
of  the  river  Doon ;  the  machinery  is  impelled  by  water, 
and  about  thirty  persons  are  regularly  employed  in  the 
works.  The  foreign  trade  of  the  port  consists  almost 
entirely  of  the  exportation  of  coal,  and  the  importation 
of  hemp,  mats,  tallow,  tar,  iron,  pitch,  timber,  and  other 
commodities  ;  the  number  of  vessels  engaged  in  this 
trade,  is  about  eighteen.  About  300  vessels  are  em- 
ployed in  the  coasting  trade,  which  is  carried  on  to  a 
very  considerable  extent ;  the  imports  are,  corn,  gro- 
ceries, hardware,  iron,  lead,  haberdasheries,  and  other 
wares,  and  the  exports  are,  coal,  corn,  wool,  and  agri- 
cultural produce.  In  a  recent  year,  739  vessels,  of 
62,730  tons  aggregate  burthen,  cleared  out  from  the 
port,  exclusively  of  steam-boats.  3136  quarters  of 
wheat,  306  cwt.  of  flour,  11,145  quarters  of  oats,  5623 
cwt.  of  meal,  318  quarters  of  barley,  643  quarters  of 
beans,  and  51  quarters  of  peas,  were  brought  into  the 
port  in  the  year  ;  and  60,000  tons  of  coal,  5571  quar- 
ters of  wheat,  5586  cwt.  of  flour,  87  quarters  of  oats, 
3178  cwt.  of  oatmeal,  84  quarters  of  barley,  and  183 
quarters  of  beans,  were  shipped  coastwise.  The  port 
appears  to  have  been  distinguished  at  an  early  period, 
and  ships  are  said  to  have  been  built  here  by  several  of 
the  kings  of  Scotland  ;  the  harbour  is  capacious,  and 
affords  good  accommodation  for  vessels,  but  the  entrance 
is  somewhat  obstructed  by  a  bar  thrown  up  by  the  accu- 
mulation of  alluvial  deposit,  for  the  removal  of  which 
considerable  sums  have  been  expended,  with  great  effect. 
A  wall  was  raised,  nearly  twenty  feet  in  height,  taper- 
ing from  a  base  of  nearly  thirty  feet  in  breadth,  to 
about  eight  feet  on  the  summit,  and  extending  nearly 
300  yards  into  the  sea,  on  the  south  side  ;  and  a  similar 
pier,  on  the  north  side,  parallel  to  the  former,  was 
likewise  erected,  at  a  very  great  expense.  By  these 
means,  the  harbour  has  been  considerably  improved ; 
and  to  render  it  still  more  complete,  a  breakwater 
has  been  partly  erected  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbour, 
stretching  still  further  into  the  sea,  and  which  it  is  esti- 
mated will  be  completed  at  an  expense  of  about  £4000. 
The  depth  of  water  is  from  14  to  16  feet,  at  ordinary 
86 


spring  tides  ;   and,  within  the  bar,  about  eighty  sail  of 
ships  may  lie  in  perfect  safety. 

The  rivers  Ayr  and  Doon  abound  with  excellent  sal- 
mon, and  considerable  quantities  are  taken,  during  the 
season,  with  drags,  and  afterwards  with  stake-nets,  and, 
besides  affording  an  abundant  supply  for  the  town  and 
neighbourhood,  are  sent  to  the  Glasgow,  Edinburgh,  and 
London  markets  ;  the  fishery  in  the  Doon  is  let  for 
£235,  and  the  other  for  £45,  per  annum.  The  fishe- 
ries off  the  coast  are  perhaps  less  extensive  than  for- 
merly, but  more  than  twenty  boats,  each  managed  by 
four  men,  are  employed  in  taking  cod,  ling,  haddock, 
whiting,  turbot,  skate,  flounders,  mackerel,  and  her- 
rings, which  last  are  taken  only  during  the  summer 
months  ;  soles,  red  gurnet,  and  large  conger  eels  are 
found  occasionally.  The  post-office  has  several  delive- 
ries daily,  and  the  utmost  facility  of  intercourse  is 
maintained  with  the  neighbouring  towns,  and  with 
England  and  Ireland.  The  roads  are  kept  in  excellent 
order  ;  and  the  trade  of  the  place  has  been  much  im- 
proved by  the  recent  formation  of  a  railroad  to  Glasgow, 
noticed  in  the  article  on  that  place,  and  for  which  an 
appropriate  station  has  been  erected  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  river,  near  the  new  bridge,  having  a  frontage  of 
eighty-four  feet,  with  every  accommodation  for  goods 
and  passengers.  The  market-days  are  Tuesday  and 
Friday;  the  markets  are  amply  supplied  with  grain  and 
provisions  of  every  kind,  and  four  annual  fairs  are  held 
for  cattle,  horses,  sheep,  and  agricultural  produce. 

The  charter  of  incorporation  was  first  granted  in 
the  year  1202,  by  William  the  Lion,  who  conferred  upon 
the  burgesses  the  whole  of  the  lands  of  the  parish,  with 
many  valuable  privileges.  This  charter  was  confirmed 
by  Alexander  II.,  who  added  the  adjoining  parish  of 
Alloway,  and  extended  the  jurisdiction  of  the  magistrates 
over  the  two  parishes ;  and  Robert  Bruce,  by  a  subse- 
quent charter,  dated  at  Dunfermline,  ratified  all  the 
grants  of  his  predecessors,  and  erected  Alloway  into  a 
barony,  of  which  the  corporation  were  the  lords.  Under 
these  charters,  the  government  of  the  burgh  is  vested  in 
a  provost,  two  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and 
twelve  councillors,  of  which  last  number  ten  were  for- 
merly of  the.  merchants'  guild,  and  two  of  the  trades' ; 
the  provost,  bailies,  and  dean  of  guild  are,  ex  officio, 
justices  of  the  peace  of  the  county.  The  burgh  magis- 
trates, were,  until  lately,  elected  from  the  guild  brethren, 
who  formed  the  council,  by  whom  all  the  officers  of  the 
corporation  were  also  appointed  ;  but  the  magistrates 
and  councillors  are  now  chosen  agreeably  with  the  pro- 
visions of  the  Municipal  Reform  act,  by  the  voters 
within  the  limits  of  the  parliamentary  burgh.  The  in- 
corporated trade  guilds  were  nine  in  number,  and  were 
styled  the  squaremen,  hammermen,  tailors,  skinners, 
coopers,  weavers,  shoemakers,  dyers,  and  butchers.  The 
magistrates  have  jurisdiction  in  civil  and  criminal  cases, 
but  confine  the  latter  to  petty  misdemeanours.  They 
hold  courts  weekly,  for  civil  and  criminal  causes,  but  the 
more  important  cases  are  referred  to  the  sheriff's  court, 
held  every  Tuesday,  from  May  to  July,  and  from  Octo- 
ber to  April ;  the  number  of  these  causes  averages  500 
in  the  year,  of  which  very  few  are  removed  into  the 
court  of  session,  or  supreme  court.  A  sheriff  court  for 
the  recovery  of  debts  not  exceeding  £8.  6.  8.,  is  held 
every  Thursday,  and  a  petty  court  every  Monday, 
confined  chiefly  to  breaches  of  the  peace  ;  a  dean  of 


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guild  court  is  also  liolden  occasionally.  These  courts  are 
held  in  the  County  Hall,  on  the  north-west  side  of  Wel- 
lington-square, a  spacious  and  elegant  building,  after  the 
model  of  the  Temple  of  Isis  at  Rome,  erected  within 
the  last  thirty  years,  at  an  expense  of  more  than 
£30,000.  The  front  is  embellished  with  a  portico  of 
massive  circular  columns,  affording  an  entrance  into  a 
lobby,  lighted  by  an  ample  and  stately  dome  rising  to  a 
considerable  height  above  the  building,  which  consists 
of  two  stories.  The  interior,  which  is  highly  decorated, 
consists  of  the  various  courts  for  the  burgh  and  the 
county,  with  requisite  offices  for  persons  connected  with 
the  proceedings,  arranged  on  the  ground  floor  ;  and  the 
upper  story,  to  which  is  an  ascent  by  a  noble  circular 
staircase,  contains  two  spacious  halls,  with  rooms  for 
the  judges  and  barristers,  and  retiring-rooms  for  the 
juries  and  witnesses.  Of  these  halls,  one  is  appropriated 
to  the  busiuess  of  the  courts,  and  the  other  chiefly  used 
as  a  banqueting  or  assembly  room  ;  the  latter  is  splen- 
didly fitted  up,  and  is  embellished  with  a  portrait  of 
Lord  Eglinton,  as  colonel  of  the  Royal  Highland  regi- 
ment, and  of  Mr.  Hamilton,  late  convener  of  the  county. 
The  prisons  for  the  burgh  and  county  are  spacious  and 
well  ventilated,  and  the  arrangement  is  adapted  for  the 
classification  of  the  prisoners,  who  are  regularly  em- 
ployed in  various  trades,  and  receive  a  portion  of  {heir 
earnings  on  their  leaving  the  prison.  Ayr  is  the  head 
of  a  district  comprising  the  burghs  of  Irvine,  Campbell- 
town,  Inverary,  and  Oban,  which  are  associated  with  it 
in  returning  a  member  to  the  imperial  parliament;  the 
right  of  election,  previously  vested  in  the  corporation, 
is  now,  by  the  act  of  the  3rd  and  4th  of  William  IV., 
extended  to  the  £10  householders;  the  sheriff  is  the 
returning  officer,  and  the  present  number  of  voters  in 
the  burgh  of  Ayr  is  about  470. 

The  parish,  including  Alloway,  forms  part  of  an  ex- 
tensive and  richly-cultivated  valley,  and  comprises  about 
5000  acres ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river 
A3T,  which  separates  it  from  the  parish  of  St.  Quivox ; 
on  the  south-west,  by  the  river  Doon,  and  on  the  west, 
by  the  sea.  The  surface,  towards  the  sea,  is  generally 
flat  for  about  two  miles,  beyond  which  it  rises  by  a  gen- 
tle ascent  to  a  considerable  elevation,  forming  a  range 
of  hills  which  inclose  the  vale,  and  terminate,  towards 
the  south-west,  in  the  loftier  chain  of  Brown  Carrick, 
which  projects  into  the  sea  in  some  precipitous  rocky 
headlands  called  the  Heads  of  Ayr.  The  river  Ayr, 
which  has  its  rise  in  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  county, 
divides  the  valley  in  which  the'parish  is  situated  into 
two  nearly  equal  parts,  and  flows  between  banks  richly 
embellished  with  plantations  and  pleasing  villas  ;  it  is 
subject  to  violent  floods,  and,  in  its  course  to  the  sea, 
conveys  great  quantities  of  alluvial  soil,  which,  accumu- 
lating at  its  mouth,  slightly  obstruct  the  entrance  of  the 
harbour.  The  river  Doon  has  its  source  in  a  lake  of 
that  name,  to  the  south-east,  on  the  confines  of  the 
stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  and,  in  its  progress,  dis- 
plays many  strikingly  romantic  features.  A  small 
stream  called  Glengaw  Burn,  flows  between  the  ancient 
parishes  of  Ayr  and  Alloway  ;  and  numerous  springs 
are  every  where  found,  at  a  small  depth  from  the  sur- 
face, affording  an  abundant  supply  of  water,  but  not 
well  adapted  for  domestic  use,  containing  carbonate 
and  sulphate  of  lime,  with  some  traces  of  iron  in  combi- 
nation. Close  to  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  parish,  is 
87 


Loch  Fergus,  about  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  abound- 
ing with  pike  ;  near  the  margin,  were  formerly  the  ruins 
of  an  ancient  building  of  a  castellated  form,  which  have 
been  long  since  removed,  to  furnish  materials  for  the 
erection  of  farm-buildings,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  lake 
is  a  small  island,  the  resort  of  wild  ducks  and  other 
aquatic  fowl. 

The  scenery  is  interspersed  with  numerous  pleasing 
villas  and  stately  residences,  among  which  are,  Castle- 
hill,   commanding   a  fine   view   of  the   town   and   bay  ; 
Belmont  Cottage,  embosomed  in  trees  ;  Doonholme,  with 
its  richly-planted  demesne,   extending  along  the   banks 
of  the  river  ;    Rozelle,  a  stately  mansion,  surrounded 
with   trees  of  venerable   growth  ;   Belle-isle,  an  elegant 
castellated  mansion  with  turrets,  rising  above  the  trees 
by  which   it  is   surrounded  ;   and  Mount  Charles,   with 
its  flourishing  plantations  crowning  the  precipitous  bank 
of  the  river  Doon.     The  beautiful  bay  of  Ayr  is  un- 
rivalled   for    striking    scenery ;    to   the    north,   are   the 
islands  of  Cumbraes,  the  Bute  hills,  and  the  Argyllshire 
mountains,  with  the  summit  of  Ben-Lomond  in  the  dis- 
tance ;  to  the  west,  is  seen  the  coast  of  Ireland,   and, 
near  the  Ayrshire  coast,  the  Craig  of  Ailsa,  rising  pre- 
cipitously from  a  base  of  two  miles  in  circumference,  to 
a  height  of  1000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  by  which 
it  is  surrounded.     The  island  of  Arran,  with  its  lofty 
mountains,  behind  which  is  seen  the  Mull  of  Cantyre, 
also  forms  a  conspicuous  and  interesting   feature  in  the 
view.     The  soil  varies  in  different  parts  of  the  parish  ; 
but,  from  the  progressive  improvements  in  agriculture, 
and   the  extensive   practice   of  tile-draining,   the  lands 
have  been  rendered  generally  fertile,  and  a  considerable 
quantity  of  unprofitable  land  has  been  made  productive. 
The  greater  portion  is  under  tillage,  and  produces  abun- 
dant crops  of  grain  of  all  kinds,  with  turnips  and  other 
green    crops.      Considerable    attention  is   paid   to    the 
rearing  of  live  stock  ;  the  sheep  are  chiefly  of  the  Lei- 
cestershire and  Cheviot  breeds,  and  the  cattle,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  of  the  short-horned  kind,  are  of  the 
genuine   Ayrshire  breed,  which   has  been   brought   to 
great   perfection.      The    rateable    annual   value   of  the 
parish  is  £24,664.     The   substratum  is  mostly  trap   and 
whinstone,  of  which  the  rocks  principally  consist ;   coal 
is  prevalent,  but  the  working  of  it  has   not  been   found 
profitable  in  this  parish,  though  it  has  been  extensively 
wrought  in  the  parishes  adjoining.     Red  sandstone  and 
freestone  also  exist,  and   the  latter  was  formerly  quar- 
ried ;   some  beautiful  specimens  of  agate  are  found  upon 
the  shore;  and  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  occurs  a  peculiar 
species  of  claystone,  with  small  grains  of  dark  felspar 
and  mica,  which  is  frequently  used  for  polishing  marble 
and  metals,  and  as  a  hone,  for  giving  a  fine  edge  to  cut- 
ting tools. 

The  parishes  of  Ayr  and  Alloway  were  united  towards 
the  close  of  the  17th  century.  The  church  of  Ayr, 
which  had  been  made  collegiate  in  the  reign  of  Mary, 
afforded  sufficient  accommodation  for  the  whole  popula- 
tion ;  and  divine  service,  which,  for  some  time  after 
their  union,  was  performed  in  the  church  of  Alloway, 
every  third  Sunday,  was  finally  restricted  to  the  church 
of  Ayr.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Glas- 
gow and  Ayr.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  of  the 
first  charge  is  £17S.  5.,  including  half  the  interest  of  a 
sum  of  £1000,  bequeathed  for  the  equal  benefit  of  both 


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ministers,  with  a  manse,  a  comfortable  modern  resi- 
dence ;  the  second  minister  has  a  stipend  of  £283.  6.  9-, 
including  £20  interest  money  above  stated,  £82.  15.  8. 
received  from  the  public  exchequer,  and  £108.  6.  8.  paid 
from  the  funds  of  the  burgh,  with  an  allowance  for 
manse.  The  old  church  was  erected  about  the  middle 
of  the  1/th  century,  to  supply  the  place  of  the  church 
of  St.  John,  which  had  been  desecrated  by  Cromwell,  and 
converted  into  an  armoury  for  the  fort  that  he  erected 
around  its  site ;  it  is  a  substantial  edifice,  but  greatly 
inferior  to  the  original  church  in  elegance  of  design. 
The  new  church  was  erected  in  1810,  at  an  expense  of 
nearly  £6000,  and  is  a  handsome  edifice  ;  the  two 
churches  together  are  capable  of  accommodating  from 
2000  to  2500  persons.  There  are  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church  and  the  Relief  Synod,  Wes- 
leyans,  the  United  Secession,  Reformed  Congregation, 
Episcopalians,  and  Moravians.  The  parochial  schools  of 
the  burgh,  by  a  charter  in  1798,  were  incorporated  into 
an  institution  called  the  Academy,  and  a  handsome  and 
capacious  building  was  erected,  with  funds  raised  by 
contributions  from  the  heritors,  and  subscriptions.  It  is 
conducted  under  the  superintendence  of  a  committee, 
by  a  rector  who  has  a  salary  of  £100  per  annum,  and  three 
assistant  masters  with  salaries  of  about  £20  each  ;  the 
course  of  instruction  is  comprehensive,  and  the  number 
of  pupils  averages  about  500.  A  school  in  which  about 
200  children  are  taught,  is  supported  by  the  produce  of 
a  bequest  of  £2000  by  Captain  Smith,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  parochial  ministers  and  magistrates  of  the 
town. 

The  hospital  for  the  poor,  or  Poor's  House,  was 
erected  in  1759,  at  the  expense  of  the  corporation,  aided 
by  subscription,  for  the  reception  of  the  infirm  and 
helpless  poor ;  it  is  conducted  by  a  master  and  a  mis- 
tress with  a  salary  of  £80.  A  dispensary  was  established 
in  1817,  which  afforded  medicinal  assistance  to  more 
than  500  patients  annually,  and  a  fever  hospital,  re- 
cently built,  has  been  united  to  it ;  the  subscriptions 
amount  to  about  £300  per  annum.  A  savings'  bank 
was  established  in  1815;  the  present  amount  of  de- 
posits is  about  £3000,  and  the  number  of  contributors 
700;  the  gross  amount  of  deposits,  since  its  commence- 
ment, exceeds  £30,000.  Numerous  charitable  benefac- 
tions have  been  made,  of  which  the  principal  are,  a 
bequest  of  Mr.  Patterson,  of  Ayr,  to  the  Glasgow  In- 
firmary, of  £500,  in  consideration  of  which  the  parish 
is  privileged  to  send  four  patients  to  that  institution ; 
an  annual  income  of  £55,  derived  from  a  bequest  of 
Mr.  Smith,  a  native  of  this  town,  and  alderman  of  Lon- 
donderry, in  Ireland,  distributed  among  poor  persons 
on  a  certain  day ;  a  bequest  of  £300  by  Mr.  James 
Dick,  of  which  the  interest  is  similarly  distributed 
among  the  poor;  the  farm  of  Sessionfield,  consisting  of 
100  acres,  bequeathed  by  Sir  Robert  Blackwood,  of 
Edinburgh,  a  native  of  this  parish,  and  the  produce  of 
which  is  distributed  among  poor  householders  ;  a  be- 
quest of  £1000  by  Mrs.  Crawford,  for  reduced  females; 
a  bequest  of  £300  by  Captain  Tennant,  to  the  Poor- 
house  ;  a  bequest  of  £5  annually  to  ten  females,  by 
Miss  Ballantine,  of  Castle-hill ;  and  a  bequest  of  £1000 
to  the  poor  of  the  parish,  by  Mr.  Ferguson,  of  Doon- 
holme. 

There  are  remains  of  the  church  of  St.  John,  within 
the  area  of  Cromwell's   fort,    consisting    solely  of  the 
88 


tower  ;  and  also  of  the  old  church  of  Alloway,  of  which 
the  walls  are  entire.  The  moat  of  Alloway  may  be 
traced,  on  the  approach  to  Doonholme  House  ;  on  its 
summit,  according  to  ancient  records,  courts  of  justice 
were  held,  for  the  trial  of  petty  offences.  There  are 
evident  traces  of  the  old  Roman  road  leading  from 
Galloway  into  the  county  of  Ayr,  and  passing  within 
half  a  mile  of  the  town ;  and  other  portions  of  it  are 
still  in  tolerable  preservation.  A  tract  on  the  coast 
called  the  Battle  Fields,  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  scene 
of  a  fierce  conflict  between  the  natives  and  the  Romans. 
Both  Roman  and  British  implements  of  war,  urns  of 
baked  clay,  and  numerous  other  relics  of  Roman  anti- 
quity, have  been  found  at  this  place;  and  coins  of 
Charles  II.  were  discovered  under  the  foundation  of  the 
old  market-cross,  a  handsome  structure  of  hexagonal 
form,  removed  in  17S8.  Johannes  Scotus,  who  flourished 
in  the  ninth  century,  eminent  for  his  proficiency  in  Greek 
and  oriental  literature,  and  who  was  employed  by  Alfred 
the  Great,  to  restore  learning  at  Oxford ;  and  Andrew 
Michael  Ramsay,  better  known  as  the  Chevalier  Ramsay, 
the  friend  of  Fenelon,  Bishop  of  Cambray,  were  natives 
of  Ayr.  John  Loudon  McAdam,  celebrated  for  his  im- 
provements in  the  construction  of  roads,  and  David 
Cathcart,  Lord  Alloway,  one  of  the  lords  of  the  high  court 
of  justiciary,  were  also  natives ;  and  John  Mair,  author 
of  a  system  of  book-keeping,  and  Dr.  Thomas  Jackson, 
professor  of  natural  philosophy  in  the  university  of  St. 
Andrew's,  and  author  of  several  valuable  works,  were 
teachers  in  schools  here.  But  the  most  celebrated  name 
connected  with  the  place,  is  that  of  Burns,  whose  monu- 
ment has  been  already  noticed,  and  who  was  born  at  Allo- 
way, in  the  parish,  in  a  cottage  which  is  still  remaining. 
It  may  here  be  observed,  that  on  the  6th  of  August, 
1S44,  the  town  of  Ayr  was  the  scene  of  great  rejoicings, 
occasioned  by  a  national  festival  being  held  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, on  that  day,  in  honour  of  the  memory  of 
Burns,  and  to  greet  the  three  sons  and  the  sister  of  the 
bard.  At  an  early  hour  of  the  morning,  visiters  from 
all  parts  of  Scotland  had  arrived,  to  join  in,  or  be  spec- 
tators of,  the  proceedings  ;  and  a  grand  procession  was 
shortly  formed,  which  passed  from  the  town,  along  a 
road  thronged  with  people,  to  the  more  immediate  scene 
of  the  events  of  the  day,  the  banks  of  the  Doon.  Here, 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  poet's  birth-place,  beside  the  old 
kirk  of  Alloway  which  his  muse  has  immortalized,  and 
beneath  the  monument  raised  by  his  admiring  country- 
men, the  procession  closed  ;  and  not  long  after,  a  ban- 
quet was  partaken  of  by  above  2000  persons,  including 
many  of  distinguished  talent,  in  a  pavilion  about  120 
feet  square,  that  had  been  specially  erected  in  a  field  ad- 
joining the  monument.  Numerous  appropriate  speeches, 
some  of  considerable  eloquence,  were  made  upon  the 
occasion  ;  that  of  Professor  Wilson  was  particularly  re- 
markable, and  the  whole  of  the  proceedings  were  cha- 
racterized by  the  utmost  enthusiasm,  and  by  an  univer- 
sal desire  to  merge  every  individual  feeling,  that  the 
day  might  be  truly  consecrated  to  its  own  peculiar 
object. 

AYRSHIRE,  an  extensive  county,  on  the  western 
coast  of  Scotland,  bounded  on  the  north  by  Renfrew- 
shire, on  the  east  by  the  counties  of  Lanark  and  Dum- 
fries, on  the  south  by  the  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright 
and  Wigtonshire,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Frith  of  Clyde 
and  the  Irish  Channel.    It  lies  between  54°  40'  and  55° 


A  Y  11  S 


A  Y  T  O 


52'  (N.  lat.),  and  4°  and  5°  (W.  long.),  and  is  about 
sixty  miles  in  length,  and  nearly  thirty  in  extreme 
breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  about  1600  square  miles, 
or  1,024,000  acres,  and  containing  31,497  houses,  of 
which  30,125  are  inhabited;  and  a  population  of 
164,356,  of  whom  78,983  are  males,  and  85,373  females. 
This  county,  which  includes  the  three  districts  of  Car- 
rick,  Kyle,  and  Cunninghame,  was  originally  inhabited 
by  the  Damnii,  with  whom,  after  the  departure  of  the 
Romans,  were  mingled  a  colony  of  Scots,  who  emigrated 
from  Ireland,  and  settled  in  the  peninsula  of  Cantyre, 
in  the  county  of  Argyll.  In  the  Sth  century,  the  Saxon 
kings  of  Northumbria  obtained  possession  of  this  part 
of  the  country  ;  and  in  the  reign  of  David  I.,  Hugh  de 
Morville,  who  had  emigrated  from  England,  and  was 
made  by  that  monarch  constable  of  Scotland,  received 
a  grant  of  the  whole  district  of  Cunninghame,  in  which 
he  placed  many  of  his  English  vassals.  Previously  to 
their  final  defeat  at  the  battle  of  Largs,  in  1263,  the 
county  was  frequently  invaded  by  the  Danes ;  and 
during  the  wars  with  Edward  of  England,  it  was  the 
scene  of  many  of  the  exploits  of  William  Wallace,  in 
favour  of  Robert  Bruce,  who  was  a  native  of  the  county, 
and  obtained,  by  marriage,  the  earldom  of  Carrick, 
which,  on  his  accession  to  the  throne,  merged  into  the 
property  of  the  crown.  The  change  in  the  principles  of 
religion  which  led  to  the  Reformation,  appears  to  have 
first  developed  itself  in  this  county ;  and  Kyle  is 
noticed  by  the  reformer,  Knox,  as  having,  at  a  very 
early  period,  embraced  the  reformed  doctrine. 

Previously  to  the  Reformation,  the  county  was  in- 
cluded within  the  arch-diocese  of  Glasgow  ;  it  is  now 
almost  entirely  in  the  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and 
comprises  several  presbyteries,  and  forty-six  parishes. 
It  contains  the  royal  burghs  of  Ayr,  which  is  the  county 
town,  and  Irvine ;  the  towns  of  Largs,  Beith,  Ardros- 
san,  Saltcoats,  Kilwinning,  Kilmarnock,  Mauchline, 
Catrine,  Old  and  New  Cumnock,  Muirkirk,  Maybole, 
and  Girvan ;  and  numerous  large  and  populous  villages. 
Under  the  act  of  the  2nd  of  William  IV.,  the  county 
returns  one  member  to  the  imperial  parliament.  The 
surface  is  varied  :  in  the  district  of  Cunninghame, 
which  includes  the  northern  portion,  it  is  comparatively 
level ;  in  Kyle,  which  occupies  the  central  portion,  it  is 
hilly  and  uneven,  though  containing  some  large  tracts 
of  fertile  and  well  cultivated  land;  and  the  district  of 
Carrick,  in  the  south,  is  wild  and  mountainous.  The 
principal  mountains  are,  Knockdollian,  which  has  an 
elevation  of  2000  feet  above  the  sea ;  Cairntable,  rising 
to  the  height  of  1650  feet;  Knockdow  and  Carleton, 
each  1554  feet  high;  and  Knocknounan,  1540  feet. 
The  chief  rivers  are,  the  Ayr,  the  Doon,  the  Garnock, 
the  Girvan,  and  the  Stiuchar  ;  and  the  county  is  inter- 
sected by  numerous  smaller  streams,  of  which  the 
principal  are,  the  Rye  water,  the  Irvine,  and  the  Kil- 
marnock water.  There  are  also  numerous  small  lakes, 
especially  in  the  district  of  Carrick ;  but  the  only  one 
of  any  extent,  is  Loch  Doon,  from  which  issues  the  river 
of  that  name.  The  coast,  especially  that  of  Carrick, 
is  precipitous,  rocky,  and  dangerous,  and  possesses  few 
good  harbours ;  towards  the  extremities,  it  is  almost 
inaccessible,  from  rocks  in  the  offing,  and  towards  the 
centre,  the  beach  is  sandy,  and  the  water  so  shallow  as 
generally  to  preclude  the  approach  of  vessels  of  any 
considerable  burthen. 
Vol.  I.— 89 


About  one-third  of  the  land  is  arable,  and  in  culti- 
vation, and  the  remainder,  of  which  a  very  large  portion 
is  mountain  waste,  is  chiefly  meadow  and  pasture.  The 
soil  is,  in  some  parts,  light  and  sandy,  and  in  others  a 
rich  clay,  and  nearly  the  whole  of  the  district  of  Cun- 
ninghame is  a  rich  and  fruitful  vale.  The  dairies  are 
well  managed,  and  their  produce  is  in  high  repute  ;  the 
county  is  also  distinguished  for  its  excellent  breed  of 
cattle  :  the  moors  abound  with  all  kinds  of  game,  and 
the  rivers  with  salmon  and  trout.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  county  is  £520,828.  The  minerals  are, 
coal,  ironstone,  lead  and  copper  ore,  black-lead,  and 
gypsum  ;  the  coal  is  abundant,  and  the  working  of  it, 
for  exportation,  is  daily  increasing,  for  which  purpose 
railroads  have  been  laid  down,  and  harbours  have  been 
constructed  ;  there  are  also  extensive  quarries  of  free- 
stone and  marble.  The  ancient  forests  of  Ayrshire 
have  long  since  disappeared;  and  the  plantations,  which 
are  extensive,  are  mostly  of  modern  growth.  The  seats 
are,  Kelburn  House,  Eglinton  Castle,  Culzean  Castle, 
Loudon  Castle,  Fairley  Castle,  Dalquharran,  Blairquhan, 
Bargeny,  Fullerton  House,  Dumfries  House,  Stair  House, 
Auchincruive,  Auchinleck,  and  many  others.  The  chief 
manufactures  are  the  various  branches  of  the  woollen, 
the  linen,  cotton,  and  thread  manufactures,  for  which 
there  are  extensive  works  at  Kilmarnock  and  Catrine ; 
the  weaving  of  muslin  is  also  general  throughout  the 
county,  and  the  Ayrshire  needlework  has  long  been 
distinguished  for  elegance.  There  are  likewise  tanneries 
and  potteries,  iron-foundries,  and  some  very  large  iron- 
works, of  which  those  at  Muirkirk  are  among  the  most 
celebrated  in  the  country  ;  along  the  coast  are  valuable 
fisheries,  and  salt-works,  and  others  for  kelp  and  soda. 
Facility  of  communication  is  maintained  by  excellent 
roads,  and  bridges  kept  in  good  repair;  also  by  the 
railway  from  Ayr  to  Glasgow,  with  its  different  branches. 
There  are  numerous  remains  of  antiquity,  consisting  of 
the  ruins  of  fortresses  and  religious  houses,  in  various 
parts  of  the  county,  all  of  which  are  described  in  the 
articles  on  the  several  parishes  where  they  are  situated. 

AYTON,  a  post-town  and  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Berwick,  7^  miles  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from  Berwick-on- 
Tweed,  and  47|  (E.  by  S.)  from  the  city  of  Edinburgh  ; 
containing  about  1700  inhabitants.  This  place,  which 
takes  its  name  from  the  water  of  Eye,  on  the  banks  of 
which  it  is  situated,  is  intimately  connected  with  impor- 
tant transactions  of  early  times.  It  was  formerly 
dependent  on  the  monastery  of  Coldingham,  as  appears 
from  charters  belonging  to  that  establishment,  upon 
the  settlement  of  which,  between  the  years  109S  and 
1 107,  under  the  auspices  of  King  Edgar,  that  monarch 
made  them  several  grants,  including  "Eytun"  and 
"  aliam  Eytun,"  the  latter  being  Nether  Ayton,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  Ayton  then  belonged  to  the 
parish  of  Coldingham ;  and  it  is  considered  that  its 
church  was  founded  about  that  time,  as  a  chapel  for 
the  neighbouring  priory,  to  which  use  it  was  appro- 
priated till  the  Reformation,  when  this  district  was  dis- 
joined from  Coldingham,  and  united  to  Lamberton  on 
the  south-east,  a  short  time  after  which,  it  was  erected 
into  a  parish  of  itself.  The  Castle  of  Ayton,  a  place  of 
great  importance  in  turbulent  times,  but  long  since 
demolished,  is  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by  a 
Norman  called  De  Vescie,  whose  family  afterwards 
changed  their  name  to  that  of  De  Eitun,  and  of  whom 

N 


A  Y  T  O 


A  Y  T  O 


the  Aytons,  of  Inchdarney,  in  Fife,  are  said  to  be  the 
lineal  descendants ;  this  castle  was  subjected  to  a  siege 
by  Surrey,  the  famous  general  of  Henry  VII.,  in  1497, 
and  it  appears  that  the  village  of  Ayton  sprang  up  in 
its  vicinity,  for  the  sake  of  the  protection  which  it 
afforded.  A  truce  was  signed  in  the  church,  between 
the  hostile  kingdoms,  in  1384;  and  another  in  1497, 
for  seven  years,  after  the  capture  of  the  castle  in  July 
in  the  same  year.  The  estate  of  Prenderguest,  a  dis- 
tinct and  very  ancient  portion  of  the  parish,  in  the 
reign  of  David  I.,  partly  belonged  to  Swain,  priest  of 
Fishwick,  on  the  banks  of  the  Tweed,  who  afterwards 
renounced  his  claim  to  it  in  favour  of  the  Coldingham 
monks. 

The  parish,  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  sea,  is  about 
four  miles  in  length,  and  the  same  in  breadth,  and 
contains  about  7050  acres,  of  which  6000  are  arable, 
250  pasture,  and  800  plantation.  The  surface  is  most 
elevated  in  the  southern  part,  which  consists  of  a  sloping 
range  of  high  land,  adorned  with  beautiful  copses,  and 
reaching,  at  its  highest  elevation,  to  about  660  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea;  the  ground  on  the  northern 
side  is  lower,  but  has  some  very  fine  lofty  undulations. 
The  sea-coast  extends  between  two  and  three  miles, 
and  is  abrupt  and  steep,  one  point,  known  by  the  name 
of  Blaiky's,  rising  to  a  height  of  350  feet;  there  are 
one  or  two  caves  on  the  shore,  accessible  only  by  sea, 
and  which,  it  is  supposed,  were  formerly  used  for 
smuggling,  but  are  now  the  resort  of  marine  fowls  and 
shellfish.  At  the  south-eastern  point  of  the  boundary, 
is  a  rocky  bay,  approached,  from  land,  by  a  deep  ravine, 
at  the  foot  of  which  stand  the  little  fishing  village  of 
Burnmouth,  and  a  singular  rock  called  the  Maiden 
Stone,  insulated  at  high  water,  and  which  has  been 
separated  from  the  precipice  above  by  the  undermining 
of  the  sea.  At  the  north-eastern  point  of  the  parish, 
are  two  or  three  islets,  called  the  Harker  rocks,  over 
which  the  sea  continually  rolls,  and  when  driven  by 
strong  east  winds,  exhibits  a  lofty  and  extensive  field 
of  sweeping  foam.  The  chief  rivers  are  the  Eye  and 
the  Ale,  the  former  of  which  rises  in  the  Larnmermoor 
hills,  and  after  flowing  for  nearly  twelve  miles,  enters 
the  parish,  by  a  right-angled  flexure,  on  its  western 
side,  and  at  length  falls  into  the  sea.  The  scenery  of 
the  valley  through  which  it  flows,  if  viewed  from  Mil- 
lerton  hill,  the  old  western  approach  to  Ayton,  is  of 
singular  interest  and  beauty  :  the  nearer  prospect  con- 
sists of  the  village,  manse, and  church,  Ayton  House,  with 
its  beautiful  plantations,  and  the  new  and  commanding 
house  and  grounds  of  Peelwalls ;  numerous  mansions 
and  farm-houses  rise,  in  various  parts,  on  the  right, 
skirted  by  a  range  of  hill  country,  and  the  expansive 
and  rolling  sea  closes  the  prospect  on  the  north-east. 
The  Ale  rises  in  Coldingham  parish,  and,  after  running 
two  or'  three  miles,  forms  the  north-eastern  boundary 
of  this  parish,  separating  it  from  Coldingham  and 
Eyemouth,  for  about  two  miles,  when  it  falls  into  the 
Eye  at  a  romantic  elevation  called  the  Kip-rock. 

The  soil,  in  general,  is  good,  consisting,  in  the 
southern  part,  of  a  fertile  loam,  and  in  the  northern 
exhibiting  a  light  earth,  with  a  considerable  admixture 
of  gravel  in  many  places  ;  the  finest  crops,  both  white 
and  green,  are  produced,  the  land  being  in  a  high  state 
of  cultivation,  and  every  improvement  in  agriculture 
has  been  introduced,  among  which  the  most  prominent 
90 


are,  a  complete  system  of  draining,  and  the  plentiful 
use  of  bone-dust,  as  turnip  manure.  The  rateable  an- 
nual value  of  the  parish  is  £12,970.  The  prevailing 
rock  in  the  district  is  the  greywacke  and  greywacke 
slate,  of  which  formation  large  supplies  of  sandstone  of 
good  quality  are  quarried  for  building.  Considerable 
deposits  of  coarse  alabaster,  or  gypsum,  have  been  dug 
up  near  the  hamlet  of  Burnmouth  ;  and  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Eye  are  large  quantities  of  coarse  gravel,  boul- 
ders, and  rolled  blocks  under  the  soil,  apparently 
alluvial,  and  rounded  by  the  perpetual  action  of  water. 
The  mansion-house  of  Ayton,  which  was  destroyed  by 
fire  a  few  years  since,  and  is  about  to  be  rebuilt  by 
the  proprietor,  who  has  just  purchased  the  property  for 
£170,000,  was  situated  on  a  beautiful  acclivity,  near 
the  great  London  road,  on  the  bank  of  the  Eye,  and 
surrounded  by  extensive  grounds.  It  was  a  fine  ancient 
edifice,  and  formed  a  commanding  object  of  attraction, 
being  the  first  on  the  line  of  road  after  crossing  the 
border.  The  house  of  Prenderguest  is  a  modern  build- 
ing of  superior  construction  ;  and  at  Peelwalls,  is  an 
elegant  residence,  lately  built  of  the  celebrated  stone 
from  the  quarries  of  Killala,  in  Fifeshire,  and  situated 
in  grounds  which  vie  with  the  mansion  in  beauty  and 
grandeur.  Gunsgreen  House,  standing  by  the  sea-side 
and  harbour  of  Eyemouth,  is  a  fine  mansion,  erected  by 
a  wealthy  smuggler,  who  caused  many  concealments 
to  be  constructed  in  the  house,  and  under  the  grounds, 
for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  his  contraband  traffic. 
A  new  and  elegant  seat  was  also  recently  erected  on 
the  estate  of  Netherbyres,  with  an  approach  from  the 
north  side,  by  means  of  a  suspension  bridge  over  the 
Eye,  by  which,  with  many  other  improvements,  this 
ancient  and  valuable  property  has  been  rendered  more 
attractive. 

The  village  of  Ayton  contains  about  700  persons,  and 
the  village  of  Burnmouth  a  third  of  that  number ;  at 
the  former,  a  cattle-market,  recently  established,  takes 
place  monthly,  and  is  well  supported,  and  fairs  have  long 
been  held  twice  a  year,  but,  at  present,  are  not  of  much 
importance.  Numerous  buildings  have  been  erected 
upon  the  new  line  of  the  London  road,  under  leases 
granted  by  the  proprietor,  and  have  improved  the  vil- 
lage very  considerably.  There  are  several  manufactories, 
of  which  the  principal  is  a  paper-mill,  where  pasteboards 
and  coloured  papers  are  chiefly  prepared,  by  new  and 
greatly  improved  machinery,  the  drying  process  being 
effected  by  the  application  of  the  paper  round  large 
cylinders  heated  by  steam  ;  about  £S00  a  year  are  paid 
to  the  workmen,  and  the  excise  duties  amount  to  up- 
wards of  £3000  per  annum.  A  tannery,  which  is,  at 
present,  on  a  small  scale,  but  progressively  increasing, 
was  commenced  in  the  village,  a  few  years  since,  and 
produces  annually  several  hundreds  of  pounds  worth  of 
very  superior  leather ;  and  at  Gunsgreen,  is  a  distillery, 
yielding  about  1500  gallons  of  aqua  weekly,  chiefly  de- 
rived from  potatoes,  6000  cwt.  of  which  have  sometimes 
been  consumed  in  two  months.  Kelp,  also,  has  occa- 
sionally been  manufactured  on  the  shore,  at  Burn- 
mouth ;  but  the  return  is  too  small  to  induce  the  inha- 
bitants to  prosecute  it  with  vigour.  A  harbour  has 
been  lately  constructed  at  Burnmouth,  of  sandstone 
found  in  the  parish,  as  a  security  against  the  violence 
of  the  sea,  at  a  cost  of  £1600,  defrayed,  three-fourths 
by  the   commissioners  for  fisheries,  and  one-fourth  by 


BACK 


BALB 


the  fishermen.  Large  quantities  of  white  fish  and  occa- 
sionally of  red,  of  very  fine  quality,  are  taken  in  this 
part,  and  cod,  ling,  and  herrings  are  cured  for  distant 
markets  ;  lobsters  are  sometimes  sent  to  Loudon,  and 
periwinkles,  with  which  the  rocks  abound,  are  likewise 
made  an  article  of  trade,  for  the  use  of  those  fishmon- 
gers who  convert  them  into  sauce.  There  is  the 
greatest  facility  of  communication  ;  the  great  London 
road,  and  the  North-British  railway,  just  constructed, 
intersecting  the  parish  ;  and  there  is  another  road  cross- 
ing the  London  nearly  at  right  angles,  and  leading  from 
Eyemouth  into  the  interior  of  the  county. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery 
of  Chirnside  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ;  the 
patronage  is  possessed  by  the  Crown,  and  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £"21 S,  with  a  glebe  valued  at  £35  per  annum, 
and  a  manse  on  the  bank  of  the  Eye,  erected  at  the 
close  of  the  last  century.  The  church,  which  is  con- 
veniently situated  about  half  a  mile  from  the  village,  in 
a  romantic  and  sweetly  secluded  spot,  near  the  Eye, 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  Ayton  House,  consists  partly 
of  the  walls  of  the  ancient  church,  built  about  the 
12th  century,  by  the  monks  of  Coldingham,  and  which 
was  of  very  considerable  dimensions.  The  old  south 
transept  is  still  entire,  shrouded  with  mantling  ivy,  and 
converted  into  a  burying-place  for  the  Ayton  family  ; 
the  gable  of  the  chancel  is  also  remaining,  but  its  side 
walls  have  been  removed,  for  the  sake  of  the  sandstone 
material,  which  appears  to  have  been  cut  from  the 
quarry  at  Greystonlees.  The  present  building  was  re- 
paired and  enlarged,  twenty  years  since,  and  contains 
456  sittings.  There  are  two  places  of  worship  belong- 
ing to  the  Associate  Synod  ;  and  also  a  parochial  school, 
in  which  are  taught  the  usual  branches  of  education, 
with  the  classics,  mathematics,  and  French  if  required, 
and  the  master  of  which  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.,  and  a 
good  house  and  garden,  with  fees,  &c,  to  the  amount  of 
£S4  a  year.  On  the  highest  point  of  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish,  is  the  round  camp  of  Drumaw,  or 
Habchester,  which,  before  recent  mutilations  by  the 
plough,  was  a  fine  specimen  of  ancient  British  encamp- 
ments. It  commands  an  extensive  prospect  both  by  sea 
and  land,  and  from  its  situation  on  the  northern  side  of 
the  hill,  and  its  use  for  observation  and  defence,  it  is 
thought  to  have  been  constructed  by  South  Britons,  in 
order  to  watch  the  movements,  and  repel  the  attacks, 
of  their  northern  neighbours.  There  are  remains  of 
other  camps  in  the  vicinity,  all  of  which,  in  process  of 
time,  yielded  to  the  more  efficient  and  permanent  de- 
fence of  castles,  of  which  the  remains  are  still  visible  in 
many  parts.  The  Castle  of  Ayton,  as  well  as  the  British 
encampment  before  noticed,  was  situated  near  the 
Roman  road  which  extended  from  the  wall  of  Severus, 
and,  after  crossing  the  country  at  Newcastle,  terminated 
at  the  Roman  camp  near  St.  Abbs  Head  in  this  dis- 
trict. 


B 


BACHIES,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Golspie, 
county  of  Sutherland  ;   containing  145  inhabitants. 

BACKDEAN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Newton, 
county  of  Edinburgh  ;  containing  45  inhabitants. 
This  hamlet  lies  near  the  source  of  a  small  tributary  to 
91 


the  Esk  water,  and  borders  upon  the  parish  of  Inveresk, 
which  is  situated  to  the  north-east  of  Backdean. 

BACKMUIR,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Liff,  Ben- 
vie,  and  Invergowrie,  county  of  Forfar  ;  containing 
166  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  the  north-western 
extremity  of  the  parish,  upon  the  border  of  the  county 
of  Perth,  and  close  to  the  Dighty  water  ;  and  the  road 
from  Dundee  to  this  place,  here  branches  off  into  two 
roads,  one  leading  to  Cupar-Angus,  and  the  other  to 
Meigle. 

BAILLIESTON,  a  village,  in  the  late  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Crossbill,  parish  of  Old  Monkland,  Middle 
ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  4f  miles  (E.  by  S.) 
from  Glasgow;  containing  639  inhabitants.  This  is 
the  principal  village  of  Crosshill  parish,  and  is  situ- 
ated in  the  western  part  of  the  parish  of  Old  Monkland, 
on  the  border  of  that  of  Barony,  and  near  the  roads 
from  Glasgow  to  Airdrie  and  to  Hamilton.  For  many 
years  past,  the  Monkland,  Bothwell,  Barony,  and  Cad- 
der  Farming  Society  have  held  their  annual  exhibition 
of  live  stock  in  the  village,  and  it  is  considered  in  Scot- 
land as  being  second  only  to  the  exhibitions  of  the 
Highland  Society  ;  the  description  of  stock  is  of  the 
first  class,  and  prizes  are  frequently  obtained  by  agri- 
culturists of  this  neighbourhood,  at  the  latter  exhibi- 
tions, where  the  competition  is  open  to  England  and 
Scotland.     A  subscription  library  is  supported  here. 

BAINSFORD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Falkirk, 
county  of  Stirling,  I  mile  (N.)  from  Falkirk.  This 
village,  which  forms  part  of  the  suburbs  of  the  town 
of  Falkirk,  and  is  included  within  the  parliamentary 
boundary,  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Forth  and 
Clyde  canal,  over  which  is  a  drawbridge,  affording  access 
to  the  village  of  Grahamston.  The  inhabitants  are 
chiefly  employed  in  the  Carron  iron-works,  of  which 
the  proprietors  have  a  basin  here,  communicating  with 
the  canal,  and  which  is  connected  with  the  works,  in 
the  adjoining  parish  of  Larbert,  by  a  railway.  There  is 
also  a  rope-walk,  in  which  several  persons  are  employed  ; 
and  in  the  village,  which  is  neatly  built,  is  a  well-con- 
ducted school. 

BALBEGGIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kinnoull, 
county  of  Perth,  5  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Perth  ;  contain- 
ing 222  inhabitants.  This  village  is  situated  in  the 
northern  extremity  of  the  parish,  on  the  road  to  Cupar- 
Angus  ;  and  the  Associate  Synod  have  a  place  of  wor- 
ship here,  with  a  residence  for  the  minister,  and  a  gar- 
den attached. 

BALBIRNE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Ruthven, 
county  of  Forfar;   containing  43  inhabitants. 

BAL15IRNIE,  county  of  Fife. — See  Markixch. 

BALBLAIR,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Fodderty, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty;  containing  7  inhabit- 
ants. 

BA.LBROGIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cupar- 
Angus,  county  of  Perth,  1|  mile  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Cupar- 
Angus  ;  containing  SO  inhabitants.  A  weekly  market 
has  been  established  at  this  place,  which  is  conveniently 
situated  near  the  road  from  Cupar-Angus  to  Meigle, 
about  midway  between  it  and  the  river  Isla. 

BALBUNNO,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Longfor- 
gan,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  200  inhabitants. 
This  village,  which  is  entirely  upon  the  lands  of  Mylne- 
field,  is  neatly  built,  and  inhabited  chiefly  by  persons 
employed  in  a  bleachfield  in  the  immediate  neighbour- 

N  2 


BALD 


BALF 


hood,  though  not  within  the  limits  of  the  parish  of 
Longforgan,  which  has  been  established  within  the  last 
few  years,  and  to  which  the  origin  of  the  village  may  be 
attributed. 

BALCHULLISH.— See  Ballichulish. 

BALCURRIE,  a  village,  in  that  part  of  the  parish 
of  Markinch  which  forms  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
Milton  of  Balgonie,  county  of  Fife  ;  containing  186 
inhabitants. 

BALDERNOCK,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Stir- 
ling, 7  miles  (N.)  from  Glasgow ;  containing,  with  the 
village  of  Balmore,  972  inhabitants,  of  whom  S14  are 
exclusive  of  the  village.  The  name  of  this  place  is 
corrupted,  as  is  supposed,  from  the  Celtic  term  Baldrui- 
nick,  signifying  "  Druid's  town;"  and  this  opinion  re- 
ceives strong  support  from  the  numerous  remains  found 
here,  pertaining  to  that  ancient  order.  The  parish,  of 
which  the  eastern  half  was  in  that  of  Campsie  till  1649, 
is  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  county, 
where  it  is  bounded  by  the  river  Kelvin,  which  flows 
towards  the  west,  and  by  the  Allander,  running  in  the 
opposite  direction.  It  comprehends  3800  acres,  of  which 
3100  are  under  cultivation,  240  wood,  and  the  remain- 
der roads  and  water,  and  about  equal  parts  are  appro- 
priated for  grain,  green  crops,  &c,  and  for  pasture. 
The  surface  is  greatly  diversified,  and  consists  of  three 
distinct  portions,  succeeding  each  other  on  a  gradual 
rise  from  south  to  north,  each  varying  exceedingly  from 
the  others,  in  soil,  produce,  and  scenery,  and  the  whole 
circumscribed  by  an  outline  somewhat  irregular,  but 
approaching  in  form  to  a  square,  the  sides  severally 
measuring  between  two  and  three  miles.  The  northern 
tract,  lying  at  an  elevation  of  300  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  embracing  fine  views  in  all  directions,  contains  a 
few  insulated  spots  under  tillage,  surrounded  by  moss 
land,  with  a  light  sharp  soil  incumbent  on  whinstone. 
Below  this,  the  surface  of  the  second  tract  assumes  an 
entirely  different  appearance,  being  marked  by  many 
beautifully  picturesque  knolls,  and  a  clayey  soil,  resting 
on  a  tilly  retentive  subsoil ;  and  to  this  portion  succeeds 
the  lowest  land  in  the  parish,  and  by  far  the  richest, 
comprising  700  or  800  acres  along  the  bank  of  the 
river,  formed  of  a  soil  of  dark  loam,  supposed  to  have 
been  washed  down  gradually  from  the  higher  grounds  ; 
this  division  is  called  the  Balmore  haughs.  Barley 
and  oats  are  the  prevailing  sorts  of  grain,  and  all  the 
ordinary  green  crops  are  raised,  potatoes,  however, 
being  grown  in  the  largest  quantity.  Draining  is  exten- 
sively carried  on,  although  much  land  is  still  in  want  of 
this  necessary  process  ;  and  the  inundations  from  the 
Kelvin,  formerly  often  destructive  to  the  crops  on  the 
lower  grounds,  are  now,  to  a  great  extent,  prevented  by 
a  strong  embankment,  and  by  a  tunnel  at  the  entrance 
of  a  tributary  of  the  river,  by  which  the  torrents,  before 
pouring  forth,  in  rainy  weather,  uncontrolled,  are  now 
so  checked  as  to  obviate  danger.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £5713. 

The  rock  consists  of  trap,  in  the  southern  and  midland 
portions  ;  but  in  the  northern  district,  limestone,  iron- 
stone, pyrites,  alum,  and  fire-clay  are  abundant,  several 
of  which  have  been  long  wrought  to  a  considerable  ex- 
tent, and  lie  in  strata  towards  the  east,  stretching  from 
the  extensive  coal-beds  of  Campsie.  Iron-ore  has  lately 
been  discovered  in  the  coal-mines  of  Barraston,  of  very 
superior  quality  to  the  common  argillaceous  kind  for- 
92 


merly  wrought,  and  consists  of  a  mixture  of  iron  with 
carbonaceous  substances,  similar  to  that  foind  in  the 
mines  near  Airdrie.  The  coal  and  lime  obtained,  for 
150  years,  from  this  locality,  the  latter  of  which  is  ex- 
cellent, and  sent  in  large  quantities  to  Glasgow  and 
many  other  places  in  the  country,  lie  in  beds  from  three 
to  four  feet  thick,  and  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  feet 
under  the  surface,  the  superincumbent  strata  being 
formed  of  argillaceous  slate,  calcareous  freestone,  and 
ironstone.  Pyrites  and  alum  are  plentiful,  and  fire- 
clay, for  a  long  period,  was  made  into  bricks,  highly 
esteemed  as  fire-proof.  Bardowie,  a  very  ancient  man- 
sion, once  fortified,  and  a  considerable  part  of  which 
is  now  modernised,  is  ornamented,  in  front,  with  a 
beautiful  loch  a  mile  long,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  chief 
of  the  clan  Buchanan ;  towards  the  north-west,  on  an 
eminence,  are  the  remains  of  a  tower  once  the  family- 
mansion,  and  near  this  is  the  seat  of  Craigmaddie,  and, 
in  another  direction,  the  mansion  of  Glenorchard.  The 
parish  is  traversed  by  a  high  road,  running  from  west 
to  east,  throughout  its  length  ;  and  the  Forth  and  Clyde 
canal  passes  within  a  small  distance  of  the  south-eastern 
boundary.  A  fair  was  once  held  in  the  summer,  for  cattle 
and  horses,  but  has  fallen  into  disuse.  Baldernock 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dumbarton  and  synod  of  Glas- 
gow and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £156.  19.  1.,  half  of  which  is  re- 
ceived from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £19  per  annum.  The  church  is  a  plain  edifice, 
built  in  1795,  and  contains  406  sittings.  There  is  a 
place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  The 
parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  reading,  writing, 
and  arithmetic  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  and 
the  fees.  In  the  vicinity  of  Blochairn  farm,  near  which 
a  battle  is  said  to  have  been  fought  with  the  Danes,  are 
several  cairns,  and,  not  far  from  these,  three  stones 
called  "  the  Auld  Wives'  Lifts,"  generally  supposed  to 
be  Druidical. 

BALDOVAN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Strath- 
martine,  county  of  Forfar  ;  containing  44  inhabitants. 
It  is  in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  parish,  near  the 
Dighty  water. 

BALEDGARNO,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Inch- 
ture  and  Rossie,  county  of  Perth,  9  miles  (W.)  from 
Dundee;  containing  1 10  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in 
the  Carse  of  Gowrie,  and  southern  portion  of  the  parish, 
and  is  a  neat  and  thriving  place,  the  property  of  Lord 
Kinnaird.  The  hill  of  Baledgarno  is  finely  planted  with 
various  kinds  of  timber. 

BALERNO,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Currie, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  7  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Edinburgh  ; 
containing  303  inhabitants.  This  place  is  situated  on 
the  Leith  water,  on  which  are  some  mills  for  the  manu- 
facture of  paper  ;  a  freestone  quarry  has  been  worked 
in  the  vicinity  for  a  number  of  years,  and  many  of  the 
buildings  of  the  new  town  of  Edinburgh  have  been 
supplied  from  it. 

BALFIELD,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Lethnott 
and  Navar,  county  of  Forfar  ;  containing  41  inhabit- 
ants. It  lies  in  the  south-eastern  portion  of  the  parish, 
a  little  to  the  north  of  the  West  water. 

BALFRON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Stirling, 
6  miles  (E.  by  N.)  from  Drymen  ;  containing  1970  in- 
habitants, of  whom  156S  are  in  the  village.  There  is  an 
opinion  that  this  place  has  been  called  by  its  present 


B  A  L  F 


BALL 


name,  which  is  said  to  signify  "  the  town  of  sorrow"  or 
"  mourning,"  from  a  dreadful   calamity  experienced   hy 
the  original   inhabitants,  who,  having  left  their  children 
in  their  tents,  and  departed  to  a  spot  at  a  short  dis- 
tance,   for    the    performance   of   religious    rites,   found, 
upon  returning,  that  they  had   been  all  destroyed  by 
wolves,   with    which   the   neighbourhood   was    infested. 
Others,    however,    interpret    the    name,    Balfron,    "  the 
town  of  burns."  and   imagine  that  it  received  this  deno- 
mination on  account  of  the  situation  of  the  old  village, 
now   fallen   to    decay,   at   the   confluence   of  two   small 
streams.     The  parish  is   eleven   miles   in   length,    from 
east  to  west,  and  three  in  breadth,  and  comprises  14,080 
acres,  of  which  3320  are  under  cultivation,  105  planta- 
tions, and  the  remainder  waste.     The  surface  is  diversi- 
fied with   pleasing  eminences,  on   one  of  which,   gently 
sloping  to  the  south,  is  the  neatly-built  and  interesting 
village,  enlivened  by  the  stream  of  the  Endrick,  winding 
through  a  richly-wooded  vale  at  its  foot,  and   supplying, 
to   the  lovers   of  angling,  an  ample   stock  of  trout,  of  a 
peculiarly  fine  flavour.     The  lofty  hills  called  the  Len- 
nox fells,  rising  1500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
form   here   a  singularly  striking  feature,   bounding   the 
scenery  in  one  direction  ;  and  the  distant  view  embraces 
the  Grampian  range,  displaying  to  great  advantage  the 
majestic   Ben-Lomond,  with   many  subordinate,  yet  im- 
posing, elevations.     The  farms,   in   general,  are  of  small 
size,   and  the   soil,  which,  in  some   places,  is  light   and 
sandy,  but  more  frequently  wet   and  tilly,  is  cultivated 
with  much  skill ;   dairy-farming  is  a  favourite  branch  of 
husbandry,  and  the  stock,  consisting  of  the  Ayrshirebreed, 
has  been  very  much  improved,  as  well  as  that  of  the  sheep, 
in  consequence   of  the  liberal   patronage  of  the  Strath- 
Endrick  Agricultural  Club.     The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £4704.     Limestone  is  abundant ;   but  it 
has   not  been  wrought  to  any  extent,  through  the  want 
of  coal,  which,  however,  is   supposed  to  exist  here,  on 
account  of  the   usual  accompanying  trap-rocks  having 
been   found,   though   all   attempts   to   discover   it   have 
hitherto  failed.     The  ancient  mansion  of  Ballindalloch, 
in  the  parish,  formerly  belonged  to  the  Glencairn  family, 
celebrated  in   Scottish  history,  and  of  whom  Alexander, 
the  fifth  earl,  was   the   friend,  associate,   and   patron  of 
John  Knox. 

The  population  was  once  entirely  rural,  and  the  chief 
point  of  interest  was  the  old  village,  with  its  spreading 
oak,  where  the  church  and  burial-ground  are  situated  ; 
but,  about  sixty-five  years  since,  manufactures  were  in- 
troduced, and  a  new  village  quickly  sprang  up.  In 
17S0,  the  manufacture  of  calicoes  commenced ;  and 
in  1"S9,  cotton-spinning  succeeded,  when  a  mill  was 
erected,  known  by  the  name  of  the  Ballindalloch  cotton- 
works,  now  employing  upwards  of  250  hands,  chiefly 
females,  and  driven  by  a  stream  supplied  by  the  En- 
drick, augmented,  in  case  of  failure,  by  the  water  of  a 
large  reservoir  in  Dundaff  moor.  In  the  village  are 
between  300  and  400  hand-looms,  employing  the  larger 
part  of  the  population  in  making  light  jaconets  and 
lawns,  and  all  kinds  of  fancy  dresses  and  shawl  patterns, 
which  branches,  however,  have  been,  for  some  time, 
greatly  depressed.  Good  roads  run  to  Stirling  and 
Glasgow,  from  which  Balfron  is  nearly  equidistant,  and 
with  which  latter  the  chief  communication  is  carried  on, 
there  being  a  daily  post,  and  numerous  conveyances  ;  a 
large  cattle-fair  is  held  in  the  neighbourhood,  on  the  last 
93 


Tuesday  in  March,  and  another  in  the  last  week  in  June. 
The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dumbarton  and  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl 
of  Kinnoull ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £158.  6.  4.,  above 
half  of  which  is  paid  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  of  17  acres,  valued  at  £25  per  annum.  The 
church  is  a  very  plain  structure,  rebuilt  in  1832,  at  a  cost 
of  £930  ;  it  contains  690  sittings,  and  is  conveniently 
situated  in  the  village,  but  too  remote  from  the  eastern 
quarter,  in  consequence  of  which  the  minister  preaches 
there,  once  every  six  weeks  in  summer,  and  once  every 
quarter  in  winter.  The  Relief,  United  Secession,  and 
Burgher  denominations,  have  each  a  place  of  worship; 
the  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the  ordinary 
branches,  and  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £25,  and  £10 
fees.  The  parish  also  contains  a  library  of  400  volumes 
in  miscellaneous  literature,  for  circulation  ;  and  one  of 
religious  books,  with  about  150  volumes.  This  place, 
with  some  others,  asserts  its  claim  to  the  honour  of 
being  the  birthplace  of  Napier,  the  inventor  of  Loga- 
rithms. 

BALGONIE,  county  of  Fife. — See  Coaltown,  and 
Markinch. 

BALGRAY,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Tealing, 
county  of  Forfar  :  containing  63  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  parish,  near 
the  church,  from  which  it  is  divided  by  a  small  rivulet 
that  rises  within  the  limits  of  Tealing. 

BALHADDIE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Dun- 
blane ;  forming  part  of  the  late  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
Ardoch,  county  of  Perth,  and  containing  33  inha- 
bitants. 

BALINTORE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Fearn, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty,  2|  miles  (E.  by  S.) 
from  Fearn  ;  containing  313  inhabitants.  This  is  a 
fishing  village,  situated  on  the  coast  of  the  Moray 
Frith,  which  has  here  a  flat  and  generally  sandy  shore  : 
on  the  south,  is  the  ferry  of  Cromarty,  distant  about 
four  miles. 

BALI  SHEAR,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  North 
Uist,  county  of  Inverness  ;  containing  157  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  in  the  channel  between  the  islands  of 
North  Uist  and  Benbecula,  and  has  a  small  village  on 
the  east  side. 

BALKELLO,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Tealing, 
county  of  Forfar  ;   containing  88  inhabitants. 

BALLANTRAE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Car- 
rick,  county  of  Ayr,  13  miles  (S.  by  W.)  from  Girvan  ; 
containing  1651  inhabitants,  of  whom  605  are  in  the 
village.  This  place,  anciently  called  Kirkcudbright- 
Innertig,  derived  that  appellation  from  the  position  of 
its  church,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Tig  ;  and,  on  the 
removal  of  the  church  from  that  site  to  the  town  of 
Ballantrae,  assumed  its  present  name,  which,  in  the 
Celtic  language,  is  descriptive  of  its  situation  on  the  sea- 
shore. The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Irish 
Sea,  and  comprises  nearly  25,000  acres,  of  which  about 
7000  are  arable,  400  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the 
remainder  rough  moorland,  affording  scanty  pasture. 
The  surface  is  greatly  diversified  with  hills  and  dales, 
and  is  intersected  by  a  series  of  four  parallel  ridges, 
increasing  in  elevation  as  they  recede  from  the  shore, 
and  of  which  the  third  and  highest,  is  distinguished  by 
a  hill  1430  feet  above  the  sea,  which  was  selected  as  one 
of  the  stations  for  carrying  on  the  late  trigonometrical 


BALL 


BALL 


survey  of  this  part  of  the  coast.  From  this  point  is 
obtained  an  extensive  and  beautiful  prospect,  embracing 
the  Isle  of  Man,  the  north-east  coast  of  Ireland,  Cantyre, 
the  isles  of  Ailsa  and  Arran,  and  the  Ayrshire  coast, 
terminated  by  the  West  Highland  mountains  in  the  back 
ground  ;  and  in  another  direction  appear  the  Dum- 
fries-shire hills,  the  Cumberland  and  Westmorland  moun- 
tains, and  Solway  Frith.  The  coast,  extends  for  about 
ten  miles ;  the  shore  is  bold,  and  interspersed  with 
rocks,  except  for  about  three  miles  near  the  village. 
The  principal  river  is  the  Stinchar,  which  rises  in  the 
parish  of  Barr,  and,  after  flowing  for  nearly  three  miles 
through  this  parish,  of  which  it  forms  part  of  the 
boundary  to  the  north,  falls  into  the  sea  ;  the  Tig,  rising 
in  the  high  grounds,  after  a  short  course,  flows  into  the 
Stinchar;  and  the  App,  a  very  inconsiderable  stream, 
flows  westward,  through  the  picturesque  dell  of  Glen- 
App,  into  Loch  Ryan.  These  streams  all  abound  with 
common  and  sea  trout,  par,  and  occasionally  salmon, 
which  is  plentiful  in  the  Stinchar. 

The  soil  is  chiefly  of  a  light  and  gravelly  quality  ; 
near  the  shore,  sandy  j  and  in  the  level  lands,  especially 
near  the  rivers,  a  rich  and  fertile  loam.  The  crops  are, 
oats,  wheat,  bear,  potatoes,  turnips,  and  a  few  acres  of 
beans  and  peas ;  bone-dust  has  been  introduced  as 
manure ;  the  lands  have  been  drained,  and  considerable 
improvements  were  made,  under  the  auspices  of  the 
late  Stinchar  Agricultural  Association,  which  included 
this  parish,  in  which  it  originated.  There  are  several 
dairy-farms,  all  well  managed,  and,  in  the  aggregate, 
producing  annually  about  5000  stone  of  sweet-milk 
cheese,  known  under  the  designation  of  Dunlop  cheese. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £7265.  The 
natural  woods  are  very  inconsiderable,  though,  from  the 
number  of  trees  found  imbedded  in  the  soil,  they  wrould 
appear  to  have  been  formerly  extensive ;  they  consist 
mostly  of  oak,  ash,  and  birch,  and  on  the  banks  of  the 
Stinchar  and  the  Tig,  are  some  valuable  trees.  The 
plantations  are  of  comparatively  recent  formation,  but 
are  in  a  thriving  condition,  and  some  which  have  been 
laid  down  in  Glen- App,  and  on  the  ridge  to  the  north  of 
it,  by  the  Earl  of  Orkney,  promise  to  become  a  great 
ornament  in  the  scenery  of  the  parish.  The  village, 
which  was  once  a  burgh  of  barony,  by  charter  of 
James  V.,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  north  bank  of 
the  river  Stinchar,  about  half  a  mile  from  its  influx  into 
the  sea ;  a  public  library  is  supported  by  subscription, 
and  a  post-office  has  been  established.  A  considerable 
salmon-fishery  is  prosecuted  at  the  mouth  of  the  Stin- 
char ;  the  fish  are  sent  chiefly  to  the  markets  of  Ayr 
and  Kilmarnock,  and  the  annual  produce  may  be  esti- 
mated at  about  £500;  the  season  generally  commences 
in  February,  and  closes  in  September.  The  white 
fishery  is  carried  on  extensively,  employing  twenty 
boats,  to  each  of  which  four  men  are  assigned,  and  from 
eight  to  twenty  nets  are  used  ;  the  fish  are  principally 
cod  and  turbot,  and  in  some  seasons,  herrings  are  also 
taken  in  abundance  ;  the  produce  may  be  estimated  at 
about  £2000,  and  the  season  usually  commences  in 
January,  and  ends  in  April.  A  court  of  petty-session 
was  formerly  held  every  alternate  month,  at  which  two 
of  the  county  magistrates  presided.  The  steam-boat 
from  Stranraer  to  Glasgow  calls  at  this  place  ;  a  facility 
of  intercourse  is  also  afforded  by  excellent  roads,  and 
the  mail  from  Ireland  to  Glasgow  passes  daily. 
94 


The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Stranraer  and 
synod  of  Galloway,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Duchess 
de  Coigny;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £248.  1.  3.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum.  The 
present  church,  erected  in  1819,  is  a  substantial  edifice, 
adapted  for  a  congregation  of  600  persons  :  the  former 
church  of  Ballantrae,  together  with  a  manse,  was  erected 
in  1617,  at  the  sole  expense  of  the  laird  of  Bargany. 
There  are  still  some  remains  of  the  original  church  at 
Innertig.  A  place  of  worship  has  been  erected  in  con- 
nexion with  the  Free  Church.  The  parochial  school  is 
well  conducted  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4§., 
with  £16  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden,  and  he  receives 
the  interest  of  a  bequest  of  £400,  for  the  instruction  of 
an  additional  number  of  poor  scholars.  The  late  Mrs. 
Caddall  bequeathed  £4500,  and  15  acres  of  land,  for 
the  endowment  and  erection  of  a  chapel  and  school  in 
Glen-App,  in  connexion  with  the  Established  Church  ; 
the  trustees  have  established  the  school,  and  selected 
land  for  the  glebe,  and  intend  to  build  the  chapel,  when 
the  funds  shall  have  accumulated  sufficiently  to  provide 
for  the  endowment  of  a  minister,  after  defraying  the 
expense  of  its  erection.  On  a  rock  near  the  village, 
and  within  the  precincts  of  the  glebe,  are  the  remains  of 
the  ancient  castle  of  Ardstinchar,  formerly  belonging  to 
the  Bargany  family. 

BALLATER,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Glenmuick, 
Tbllich,  and  Glengairn,  district,  of  Kincardine 
O'Neil,  county  of  Aberdeen  ;  containing  371  inha- 
bitants. This  place,  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  Dee,  was  formed  about  the  begin- 
ning of  the  present  century,  by  the  late  proprietor, 
William  Farquharson,  Esq.,  of  Monaltrie,  by  whose 
directions  the  site  was  measured  for  the  erection  of  re- 
gular streets  and  squares,  the  former  of  which  cross 
the  main  street  at  right  angles,  and  the  latter,  with 
allotments  of  ground,  have  been  let  out  in  perpetual 
feu  tenements.  Besides  numerous  well-constructed 
private  houses,  the  village  contains  an  excellent  inn, 
some  good  shops,  a  circulating  library,  and  a  post-office 
communicating  daily  with  Aberdeen,  to  which  place 
there  is  a  daily  mail-coach,  together  with  several  weekly 
carriers.  The  salubrity  of  the  air,  and  the  picturesque 
scenery  of  the  locality,  draw  many  visiters  from  Aber- 
deen and  other  parts,  in  the  summer  months  ;  but  the 
chief  attraction  is  the  chalybeate  waters  of  Pananich, 
in  the  vicinity,  which  hold  in  solution  carbonate  of 
iron,  lime,  magnesia,  &c,  and  are  considered  of  much 
efficacy  in  scorbutic  and  nephritic  complaints.  There 
are  superior  hot,  cold,  and  shower  baths,  and  many 
convenient  lodging-houses ;  and  in  a  square  in  the  vil- 
lage, stands  the  parish  church,  and,  at  a  short  distance, 
the  parochial  school.  Over  the  Dee  is  a  good  wooden 
bridge  of  four  arches,  erected  in  1834,  at  a  cost  of  up- 
wards of  £2000. 

BALLENDEAN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Inch- 
ture  and  Rossie,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  80  in- 
habitants. This  place  is  situated  in  the  Carse  of  Gow- 
rie,  near  Ballendean  hill,  which  is  oi'  considerable  eleva- 
tion, and  also  near  the  handsome  mansion  of  Ballendean 
House. 

BALLENLUIG,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Logie- 
rait,  county  of  Perth;  containing  114  inhabitants. 
It  is  in  the  north-eastern  portion  of  the  parish,  near  the 
river  Tummel,  which  flows  on  the  north-east. 


BALL 


BALM 


BALLICHULISH,  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the  pa- 
rish of  Kilmalie,  partly  in  the  district  and  county  of 
Argyll,  and  partly  in  the  county  of  Inverness, 
1 1  miles  (S.  by  W.)  from  Fort-William  ;  containing  1235 
inhabitants.  The  village  of  Ballichulish  is  situated  on 
the  south  shore  of  Loch  Leven,  a  branch  of  Loch  Linnhe, 
and  there  is  a  ferry  to  the  opposite  coast,  not  far  from 
it  ;  the  prospect  is  of  the  most  imposing  character, 
embracing  lofty  mountains  and  extensive  lakes,  relieved 
by  woods  and  pastures,  and  other  interesting  features. 
The  parish  consists  of  two  distinct  districts,  separated 
from  each  other  by  Loch  Linnhe,  with  a  church  in  each 
district.  The  district  connected  with  the  church  at 
Ballichulish,  in  Invernesshire,  is  17  miles  by  7,  or 
119  square  miles,  in  extent;  that  connected  with  the 
church  at  Ardgower,  in  Argyllshire,  is  14  miles  by  6, 
or  84  square  miles,  in  extent,  making  a  total  of  '203 
square  miles.  The  churches  were  built  in  June  1829, 
and  are  about  four  miles  apart ;  that  of  Ballichulish 
has  300  sittings,  and  the  church  of  Ardgower,  210,  and 
public  worship  is  performed  once  a  fortnight  in  each. 
An  Episcopalian  clergyman  officiates  every  Sunday, 
in  a  chapel  in  the  parish  of  Appin,  within  three  miles 
of  Ballichulish  church ;  and  a  Roman  Catholic  priest 
officiates  once  in  three  weeks,  at  Ballichulish  slate 
quarry,  likewise  in  Appin  parish,  and  where  there  is 
also  an  Establishment  chapel.  A  place  of  worship  in 
connexion  with  the  Free  Church  has  been  erected. 

BALLINGRY,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kirk- 
caldy, county  of  Fife,  3  miles  (N.  E.  by  E.)  from 
Blair-Adam  Inn  ;  containing  436  inhabitants.  This 
place  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name,  of  Gaelic 
origin,  from  its  having  been,  at  one  time,  an  occa- 
sional residence  of  the  Scottish  kings.  During  the 
invasion  of  Britain  by  the  Romans,  under  Agricola,  a 
battle  is  said  to  have  occurred  between  the  Caledonians 
under  Galgacus,  and  the  IX.  legion,  which  was  stationed 
here,  when  the  latter  were  totally  defeated  ;  but  Agricola, 
upon  receiving  intelligence  of  that  event,  put  the  whole 
of  his  army  in  motion,  and,  falling  upon  the  rear  of 
the  Caledonians,  compelled  them  to  yield  to  superior 
numbers,  and  retire  from  the  field.  The  latter,  however, 
retreated  in  good  order,  bravely  defending  the  fords  of 
Loch  Leven  against  the  invaders,  and  obstinately  dis- 
puting every  inch  of  ground.  Numerous  memorials  of 
this  contest  have  been  met  with  ;  at  the  east  end  of  the 
loch,  and  also  where  Auchmuir  bridge  now  crosses 
that  ancient  ford,  Caledonian  battle-axes  and  Roman 
weapons  have  been  discovered  ;  and  a  few  years  since, 
a  Caledonian  battle-axe  of  polished  stone,  firmly  fixed 
in  an  oaken  handle,  twenty-two  inches  long,  was  found 
near  the  spot. 

The  parish,  which  is  of  very  irregular  form,  comprises 
about  3700  acres,  of  which  1394  are  arable,  1874 
meadow  and  pasture,  242  woodland  and  plantations,* 
and  the  remainder  common  and  waste  ;  the  surface  is 
generally  a  level,  broken  only  by  the  hill  of  Binarty,  of 
which  the  southern  acclivity  has  been  richly  planted, 
forming  an  interesting  feature  in  the  scenery.  The  soil, 
in  the  northern  portion,  is  rich,  dry,  and  fertile,  but  in 
other  parts,  of  inferior  quality ;  the  crops  are,  oats,  and 
barley,  with  some  wheat,  beans,  and  potatoes.  Great 
improvement  has  been  made  by  draining,  but,  in  rainy 
seasons,  the  drains  are  insufficient  to  carry  off  the 
water ;  the  loch  on  the  estate  of  Lochore,  has  been 
95 


drained,  and  now  produces  excellent  crops  of  grain. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4611. 
Limestone  and  coal  are  found  in  various  parts ;  the 
former  is  of  inferior  quality,  and  not  worked,  but  the 
latter  is  wrought  on  two  estates  in  the  parish,  with 
success  ;  whinstone  and  freestone  are  also  found  here, 
and,  on  the  hill  of  Binarty,  basaltic  whinstone.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcaldy  and  synod  of 
Fife,  and  in  the  gift  of  the  lady  of  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
Bart.;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £172.  8.  3.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £18  per  annum.  The 
church  is  a  substantial  and  neat  structure,  erected  in 
1831.  The  parochial  school  is  tolerably  attended; 
the  master's  salary  is  £34.  4.  4.,  with  fees,  and  a 
house.  The  poor  are  supported  by  the  rent  of  land 
producing  £21,  by  collections  at  the  church,  and  by  the 
proceeds  of  a  bequest  of  £100  by  William  Jobson,  Esq., 
of  Lochore. 

BALLOCH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  and  county  of 
Inverness;  containing  104  inhabitants. 

BALLOCHNEY,  a  village,  in  that  part  of  the  parish 
of  New  Monkland  which  formed  the  quoad  sacra  parish 
of  Clarkston,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ; 
containing  559  inhabitants.  This  place,  which  is  situ- 
ated in  the  southern  part  of  the  parish,  in  an  important 
coal  and  ironstone  district,  gives  name  to  a  line  of 
railway  extending  from  it,  for  about  four  miles  west- 
ward, to  the  southern  terminus  of  the  Monkland  and 
Kirkintilloch,  and  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Glasgow 
and  Garnkirk,  railroad.  The  capital  of  the  company, 
which  was  incorporated  in  1 S26,  was  originally  £18,000  ; 
but  power  was  acquired,  in  the  session  of  1S35,  to  in- 
crease it  to  £28,000  ;  and  by  an  act  passed  July  1,  1S39, 
the  capital  was  further  augmented  to  £70,000,  for  the 
purpose  of  improving  the  line,  which  now  has  several 
branches.  In  1843,  the  company  was  empowered  to 
increase  its  capital  to  £110,000. 

BALMACLELLAN,  a  parish,  in  the  stewartry  of 
Kirkcudbright,  l|  mile  (N.  E.)  from  New  Galloway; 
containing  1134  inhabitants,  of  whom  113  are  in  the 
village.  This  place  takes  its  name  from  its  ancient 
proprietors,  a  branch  of  the  family  of  Maclellan  of 
Bombie,  lords  of  Kirkcudbright,  who  flourished  here 
for  many  generations.  The  parish,  which  is  bounded 
on  the  west  by  the  river  Ken,  and  on  the  east  by  the 
river  Urr,  is  of  an  irregularly  oblong  figure,  comprising 
about  23,737  acres,  of  which  4000  are  arable,  300 
wood  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  some  extensive  tracts  of  moorland  and  moss, 
meadow  and  pasture.  The  surface  is  varied  with  hills, 
of  which  some  rise  to  a  considerable  height,  and  is 
interspersed  with  small  valleys,  of  different  degrees  of 
fertility,  and  great  variety  of  aspect  ;  the  lower  grounds 
are  watered  by  the  Craig  and  Crogo  rivulets,  issuing 
from  a  range  of  hills  in  opposite  directions,  and  dividing 
the  parish  from  that  of  Parton  on  the  south,  and  from 
the  parishes  of  Dairy  and  Glencairn  on  the  north. 
Along  the  banks  of  the  Ken,  a  range  of  mounts  called 
Drums,  extends  for  two  or  three  miles  into  the  interior 
of  the  parish,  beyond  which  the  country  assumes  a 
more  wild  and  rugged  aspect,  consisting  of  large  tracts 
of  moor  and  peat  moss,  interspersed  with  a  few  detached 
portions  of  cultivated  land.  In  the  upper  parts  of  the 
parish,  are  numerous  lakes,  of  which  Loch  Brach,  Loch 
Barscole,  Loch  Skae,  and  Loch  Lowes  are  the  principal ; 


BALM 


BALM 


but  the  most  extensive  and  beautiful  is  Loch  Ken,  on 
the  western  border  of  the  parish,  into  which  the  river 
Ken,  which  frequently  overflows  its  banks,  discharges 
its  waters.  The  several  streams  and  lakes  abound  with 
trout,  and  more  especially  Loch  Braeh,  in  which  are 
yellow  trout,  equal  in  quality  to  those  of  Lochinvar; 
pike  are  also  found  in  most  of  them,  and  in  Loch  Ken, 
one  was  taken  which  weighed  721bs.  The  river,  in  its 
course,  forms  numerous  picturesque  cascades,  of  which 
the  most  interesting  and  most  romantic  is  that  called 
the  Holy  Linn ;  the  prevailing  scenery  is,  in  many 
parts,  richly  diversified,  and,  more  particularly  around 
the  village,  is  beautifully  picturesque. 

The  soil  is  extremely  various  ;  the  lands  which  are 
under  cultivation  have  been  much  improved,  and  to- 
wards the  east,  considerable  tracts,  hitherto  unprofit- 
able, are  gradually  becoming  of  value ;  but  there  is  still 
much  moor  and  moss,  scarcely  susceptible  of  improve- 
ment. The  chief  crops  are,  grain  of  all  kinds,  with 
potatoes  and  turnips;  the  farm-buildings  on  some  of 
the  lands  are  substantial  and  commodious,  but,  on 
others,  of  very  inferior  order.  The  cattle  are  generally 
of  the  Galloway  breed,  except  a  few  cows  of  the  Ayr- 
shire kind,  on  one  of  the  dairy-farms  ;  and  the  sheep 
are  of  the  black-faced  breed,  except  on  one  farm,  which 
is  stocked  with  a  cross  between  the  black  and  the  white 
faced,  and  a  few  of  the  Cheviot ;  a  very  considerable 
number  of  pigs  are  reared,  and  sent  to  the  Dumfries 
market.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£5115.  The  substratum  is  almost  wholly  whinstone, 
of  which  the  rocks  chiefly  consist,  and  of  which  great 
quantities  are  raised,  affording  excellent  materials  for 
the  roads ;  slate  is  found,  and  till  lately  there  were 
two  quarries  in  operation.  The  plantations,  which  are 
mostly  oak,  ash,  and  fir,  are  distributed  throughout  the 
lands,  in  detached  portions  of  ten  or  twelve  acres  each. 
Holm  is  a  handsome  residence  in  the  parish  ;  and  there 
are  also  the  houses  of  Craig  and  Craigmuie.  The  chief 
village  stands  at  the  intersection  of  the  turnpike-roads 
leading  from  Edinburgh  to  Wigton,  and  from  Glasgow 
to  Kirkcudbright ;  the  small  village  of  Crogo  is  a  retired 
hamlet,  in  the  south  of  the  parish,  containing  about 
sixty  inhabitants,  and  takes  its  name  from  the  rivulet 
on  which  it  is  situated.  In  1822,  a  substantial  bridge 
of  granite,  of  five  arches,  was  built  over  the  river  Ken, 
by  the  floods  of  which  two  several  bridges  had  been  pre- 
viously swept  away;  the  central  arch  has  a  span  of  100 
feet. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcudbright  and  synod  of 
Galloway;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £226.  19-  8.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £35  per  annum ;  patron, 
the  Crown.  The  church  is  a  plain  structure,  built  in 
1772,  and  enlarged  and  repaired  in  1S33,  and  contains 
370  sittings ;  the  churchyard  is  spacious,  and  com- 
mands a  fine  view,  extending  over  the  whole  vale  of 
the  Ken.  There  are  two  parochial  schools,  of  which 
the  masters  have  each  a  salary  of  £17.  2.  2.,  with  a 
house  and  garden,  in  addition  to  the  fees,  which  average 
about  £15  per  annum.  A  free  school  is  supported  by 
an  endowment  of  £70  per  annum,  arising  from  land 
purchased  with  a  bequest  of  £500  by  Edward  Burdock, 
Esq.,  in  1788  ;  the  school-house  was  built  in  1790,  with 
a  dwelling-house  for  the  master,  who  has  a  salary  of 
£17-  2.  2.,  but,  in  consideration  of  the  endowment,  re- 
96 


ceives  no  fees  from  the  pupils.  Barscole  Castle,  an- 
ciently a  seat  of  the  Maclellans,  is  little  more  than  a 
heap  of  ruins.  On  Dularran  Holm,  is  an  erect  stone  of 
great  size,  without  inscription,  supposed  to  mark  out 
the  spot  where  some  Danish  chief  fell  in  battle  ;  and  on 
a  hill  near  the  village,  a  large  ball  of  oak,  and  a  set  of 
bowling-pins,  all  of  which,  except  two,  were  standing 
erect,  were  discovered  a  few  years  since,  by  persons 
cutting  peat,  at  a  depth  of  about  twelve  feet  below  the 
surface  of  the  ground. 

BALMAGHIE,  a  parish,  in  the  stewartry  of  Kirk- 
cudbright, 4  miles  (N.  w.)  from  Castle-Douglas ; 
containing  1252  inhabitants,  of  whom  275  are  in  the 
village  of  Laurieston,  and  243  in  that  of  Bridge  of  Dee. 
This  place  takes  its  name  from  its  ancient  proprietors, 
the  Mc  Gies,  whose  ancestor,  an  Irish  chieftain,  settled 
here  at  a  very  remote  period,  and  whose  descendants 
retained  possession  of  the  chief  lands  for  many  genera- 
tions. A  part  was  the  property  of  the  Douglas  family, 
whose  baronial  residence,  Threave  Castle,  was  built  upon 
the  site  of  a  more  ancient  structure  belonging  to  the 
lords  of  Galloway,  who  exercised,  for  many  years,  a 
kind  of  sovereignty,  independent  of  the  crown  of  Scot- 
land. In  1451,  the  eighth  earl  of  Douglas,  in  retalia- 
tion of  some  aggression  on  his  territories,  seized  Sir 
Patrick  Maclellan,  of  Bombie,  and  detained  him  pri- 
soner in  the  castle  of  Threave,  intending  to  bring  him 
to  trial,  by  right  of  his  hereditary  jurisdiction  ;  and  on 
the  arrival  of  Sir  Patrick  Grey,  of  Foulis,  commander  of 
the  body-guard  of  James  II.,  with  a  warrant  from  the 
king,  demanding  his  release,  Douglas,  suspecting  his 
errand,  instantly  ordered  Maclellan  to  be  beheaded  in 
the  court-yard.  The  castle  was  soon  afterwards  be- 
sieged by  the  king  in  person ;  but  the  artillery  making 
no  impression  upon  the  walls,  which  were  of  extraordi- 
nary thickness,  a  blacksmith,  who  witnessed  the  assault, 
offered  to  make  a  cannon  of  sufficient  power  for  the 
purpose  ;  and  the  family  of  Maclellan  providing  him 
with  iron  for  the  work,  he  constructed  the  enormous 
cannon  afterwards  called  Mons  Meg,  which  weighed 
more  than  six  tons  and  a  half.  This  formidable  engine, 
which  was  made  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  royal 
camp,  being  with  great  difficulty  dragged  to  a  command- 
ing position  in  front  of  the  castle,  the  first  shot  spread 
consternation  among  the  besieged,  and  the  second 
pierced  through  the  wall  of  the  castle,  and,  entering  the 
banquet-hall,  carried  away  the  right  hand  of  the  coun- 
tess, who,  at  the  moment,  was  raising  a  goblet  of  wine 
to  her  mouth.  The  garrison  immediately  surrendered, 
and  the  king  presented  to  the  blacksmith,  whose  name 
was  Mc  Kim,  or  Mc  Min,  the  lands  of  Mollance,  as  a  re- 
ward for  his  ingenuity  in  devising  and  accomplishing 
the  means  of  his  success. 

This  castle  was  the  last  of  the  various  fortresses  that 
beld  out  for  the  earls  of  Douglas,  after  their  rebellion  in 
1453  ;  and  upon  the  fall  of  that  family,  and  the  conse- 
quent annexation  of  Galloway  to  the  crown  of  Scotland, 
in  1455,  it  was  granted  by  the  king  to  the  family  of 
Maxwell,  afterwards  earls  of  Nithsdale,  hereditary  stew- 
ards of  Kirkcudbright,  and  "keepers  of  the  king's  castle 
of  Threave."  During  the  parliamentary  war,  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  I.,  the  Earl  of  Nithsdale,  who  held  the 
castle  for  the  king,  maintained  in  it  a  garrison  of  eighty 
men,  with  their  officers,  at  his  own  expense  ;  and  when 
no  longer  able  to  maintain  it  against  its  assailants,  the 


BALM 


BALM 


king,  who  was  unable  to  send  him  any  assistance,  re- 
commended him  to  make  the  best  terms  he  could  for 
the  garrison  and  himself.  As  hereditary  keepers  of  the 
castle  after  the  Restoration,  the  earls  received  annually, 
from  each  parish  in  the  stewartry,  a  fat  cow  ;  and  when 
they  sold  the  estate,  in  1704,  they  reserved  the  castle 
and  the  island,  to  which  they  appointed  a  captain,  in 
order  to  secure  their  right  to  the  cattle,  which  was  re- 
gularly paid  till  the  attainder  of  the  earl,  for  rebellion, 
in  1715.  There  are  still  some  very  conspicuous  re- 
mains of  the  ancient  castle,  situated  on  an  island  of 
about  20  acres  in  extent,  formed  by  the  Dee,  at  the 
south-eastern  angle  of  the  parish  ;  they  consist  chiefly 
of  the  keep,  which  was  surrounded  by  an  outer  wall, 
with  four  circular  turrets,  of  which  one  only  is  standing. 
Several  stone  balls,  weighing  from  one  to  3§  pounds, 
and  a  gold  ring,  supposed  to  be  that  worn  by  the 
countess  when  her  hand  was  shot  off,  were  found  in  the 
castle,  in  1843;  and  in  the  year  preceding,  a  large  ball 
of  granite,  19  inches  in  diameter,  thought  to  be  that 
discharged  from  Mons  Meg,  was  found  by  some  labour- 
ers who  were  clearing  the  ground. 

The  parish,  which  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  county,  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Black- 
water  of  Dee,  and  on  the  east  by  the  river  Dee  ;  it  is 
about  nine  miles  in  length,  and  seven  in  extreme 
breadth,  and  comprises  22,000  acres,  of  which  nearly 
7000  are  arable,  and  the  remainder  meadow,  pasture, 
and  waste,  with  a  moderate  proportion  of  woodland  and 
plantations.  The  surface,  towards  the  south-east,  is 
tolerably  level,  but,  in  all  other  parts,  hilly,  though  not 
strictly  mountainous ;  the  higher  grounds  command 
extensive  views,  including,  to  the  north-west,  the  Cars- 
phairn  and  Minnigaff  hills,  and,  to  the  south-east,  those 
of  Cumberland,  with  the  Isle  of  Man,  in  clear  weather. 
In  the  uplands  are  several  lakes,  of  which  Loch  Gran- 
noch,  or  Woodhall,  the  largest,  is  about  2^  miles  in 
length,  and  half  a  mile  in  breadth  ;  and,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  Lochinbreck,  which  abounds  with  trout,  they 
are  all  well  stored  with  pike  and  perch.  The  soil  in 
the  valley  of  the  Dee  is  fertile,  and  there  are  extensive 
and  productive  tracts  of  meadow  in  the  parish  ;  the 
principal  crops  grown  are,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and 
turnips.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  improved;  the 
farm-buildings  are  generally  substantial  and  commo- 
dious, and  those  on  the  lands  of  Balmaghie  are  all 
of  recent  erection,  and  of  very  superior  order.  Bone- 
dust  is  used  as  manure  for  turnips  5  the  lands  have 
been  well  drained,  and  are  mostly  inclosed  with  stone 
dykes.  The  moorlands  afford  tolerable  pasture  for 
sheep,  of  which  about  4000,  of  the  black-faced  breed, 
are  annually  reared  ;  and  about  400  of  the  white-faced, 
a  cross  between  the  Leicestershire  and  Cheviot,  are 
pastured  on  the  low  grounds.  The  cattle,  of  which 
about  1000  are  fed  on  the  uplands,  are  of  the  Galloway 
and  Highland  breeds  ;  and  on  the  lowland  farms  are 
numerous  cows,  principally  Galloways,  with  some  of  the 
Ayrshire  kind.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £6603. 

The  substrata  are  chiefly  greywacke  or  whinstone, 
and  in  the  higher  lands,  granite  is  found  in  abundance  ; 
but  there  is  no  limestone,  and  what  is  required  for 
building,  or  for  agricultural  purposes,  is  brought  from 
Cumberland.  The  plantations  are  not  extensive,  but 
thrive  well  ;  they  consist  mainly  of  larch  and  oak, 
Vol.  I.— 97 


which  appear  adapted  to  the  soil.  Balmaghie  House, 
an  ancient  mansion,  in  which  parts  of  an  older  building 
have  been  incorporated,  is  pleasantly  seated  near  the 
river  Dee,  in  grounds  beautifully  undulated,  and  embel- 
lished with  plantations  :  Duchrae  House,  a  handsome 
mansion  of  granite,  built  in  the  old  English  style,  about 
the  year  1824,  is  finely  situated  near  the  confluence  of 
the  Dee  and  Ken.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcudbright 
and  synod  of  Galloway  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£203.  8.  S.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £17.  10. 
per  annum  ;  patron,  Capt.  Gordon.  The  church,  built 
in  1794,  is  situated  near  the  Dee ;  it  is  in  good  repair, 
and  contains  400  sittings.  There  are  two  parochial 
schools  ;  one  at  the  village  of  Laurieston,  of  which  the 
master  has  a  house,  and  a  salary  of  £30,  with  fees 
averaging  nearly  an  equal  sum  ;  and  the  other  at  Glen- 
lochar,  the  master  of  which  has  a  salary  of  £21.  6.  6., 
with  fees  amounting  to  about  £14. 

BALMALCOLM,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kettle, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife,  1  mile  (S.  E.)  from 
Kettle;  containing  113  inhabitants.  It  is  a  small 
place,  on  the  road  between  Cupar  and  Leslie,  and  a 
short  distance  south  of  the  river  Eden. 

BALMBRAE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Falkland, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife;  containing  114  in- 
habitants, employed  in  agriculture,  and  in  hand-loom 
weaving  at  their  own  dwellings. 

BALMERINO,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cupar, 
county  of  Fife,  5  miles  (W.)  from  Newport  ;  containing, 
with  the  villages  of  Kirkton  and  Galdry,  993  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  62  are  in  the  village  of  Balmerino.  This 
place,  of  which  the  name,  of  Celtic  origin,  signifies 
"  the  town  of  the  sea,"  or  "  Sailors'  town,"  most  pro- 
bably derived  that  appellation  from  its  position  on  the 
estuary  of  the  river  Tay.  It  appears  to  have  been 
distinguished,  at  a  very  early  period,  for  the  mild  tem- 
perature of  its  climate,  and  the  salubrity  of  its  atmo- 
sphere ;  and  early  in  the  13th  century,  it  was  selected 
by  Queen  Ermengard,  widow  of  William  the  Lion,  and 
mother  of  Alexander  II.,  as  a  place  of  occasional  resort, 
for  the  benefit  of  her  health;  and,  subsequently,  by 
Magdalene,  queen  of  James  V.,  for  the  same  purpose. 
A  monastery  was  founded  here  by  Alexander  II.,  in 
1230,  for  Cistercian  monks,  at  the  solicitation  of  Ermen- 
gard, in  gratitude  for  the  benefit  she  received  while 
resident  here,  which  monastery  he  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin  Mary  and  St.  Edward  the  Confessor,  and  in 
which  he  placed  monks  of  that  order,  from  the  abbey  of 
Melrose.  This  establishment  was  endowed  by  Queen 
Ermengard,  with  lands  in  this  county,  purchased  from 
Adam  de  Stawell,  to  which  Alexander  added  the  church 
and  lands  of  Lochmure,  in  Angus,  and  those  of  Petgor- 
noc  and  Drumdol,  in  the  county  of  Fife.  It  continued 
to  increase  in  wealth,  by  the  liberality  of  subsequent 
benefactors,  till  the  Dissolution,  when  its  revenues 
amounted  to  £704.  2.  10§.  in  money,  exclusively  of  a 
considerable  income  in  grain  and  other  agricultural  pro- 
duce. The  abbey  was  demolished  in  1558,  by  the 
lords  of  the  congregation,  on  their  route  from  St.  An- 
drew's ;  the  site,  with  the  lands  appertaining  to  it,  was 
subsequently  granted  to  Sir  James  Elphinstone,  of 
Barnton  ;  and  after  the  Reformation,  the  estates  were 
constituted  a  lordship,  in  favour  of  Sir  James,  who  was 
raised  to  the  Scottish  peerage,  in  1604,  by  the  title  of 

O 


BALM 


BALN 


Lord  Balmerino,  which  became  extinct  in  1*45,  by 
the  attainder  and  execution  of  his  descendant,  the 
then  lord. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Frith  of 
Tay,  along  the  shore  of  which  it  extends  from  Birkhill 
to  Wormit  bay;  and  comprises  3400  acres,  of  which 
nearly  2700  are  arable,  and  in  profitable  cultivation,  500 
woods  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  pasture  and 
waste.  The  surface  is  greatly  varied,  and  traversed  by 
two  nearly  parallel  ridges,  extending  from  east  to  west, 
and  inclosing  a  lovely  valley,  in  which  the  village  is 
situated ;  the  highest  points  of  these  ridges  are,  the 
Scurr  hill,  on  the  north,  which  has  an  elevation  of  400 
feet,  and  the  Coultry  hill,  on  the  south,  which  rises  to 
the  height  of  500  feet  above  the  sea.  There  is  also  a 
considerable  portion  of  high  table  land  on  the  southern 
ridge,  on  which  the  village  of  Galdry  stands.  The  scenery 
abounds  with  romantic  features,  and  is  every  where 
enriched  with  woods  and  thriving  plantations  :  a  little 
to  the  east  of  the  church,  and  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  valley,  is  a  small  elevation,  on  the  brow  of  which 
is  Naughton  House,  and  on  the  summit  are  the  ruins 
of  an  ancient  castle  ;  beneath  is  a  picturesque  dell,  from 
which  a  mass  of  rock  rises  abruptly  to  the  height  nearly 
of  100  feet.  The  shores  of  the  Tay  are  bold  and  rocky, 
having,  in  some  parts,  precipitous  and  lofty  cliffs;  and 
on  that  portion  of  the  shore  which  rises  more  gradually, 
are  the  picturesque  ruins  of  the  abbey,  overlooking  the 
river.  The  Tay  affords  excellent  facilities  for  bathing, 
being  strongly  impregnated  with  saline  particles  ;  there 
are  no  other  rivers  in  the  parish,  but  the  lands  are, 
notwithstanding,  well  watered  by  numerous  springs,  of 
which  many  appear,  from  their  names,  to  have  been 
formerly  of  great  notoriety,  and  from  which  issue  various 
small  streams  that  attain  sufficient  power  to  turn 
several  mills. 

The  soil  is  generally  light ;  in  some  parts,  a  rich 
black  loam  ;  and  in  others,  gravelly ;  but,  under  good 
management,  rendered  fertile  and  productive.  The  crops 
are,  grain  of  all  kinds,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the  sys- 
tem of  agriculture  is  improved  ;  the  farm -buildings  are 
substantial  and  commodious,  and  on  all  of  the  farms 
are  threshing-machines,  of  which  some  are  driven 
by  water.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£4962.  The  substrata  are  chiefly  sandstone  and  whin- 
stone,  of  the  former  of  which  there  are  two  varieties, 
one  extremely  compact,  and  well  adapted  for  building 
purposes ;  the  other,  more  friable,  and  abounding  with 
nodules  of  quartz  and  other  substances.  The  whinstone 
is  of  different  qualities,  comprising  amygdaloid,  trap 
tuffa,  felspar,  and  clay-stone  porphyry  ;  that  which  is 
of  coarser  grain,  contains  amethyst,  calcareous  spar, 
chalcedony,  and  agates.  The  Scurr  hill  abounds  with 
mineral  varieties;  the  most  beautiful  agates  occur  there, 
and  boulders  of  primitive  rock  are  found  along  the 
shore,  and  on  the  highest  ridges.  Naughton  House  was 
erected  towards  the  commencement  of  the  present  cen- 
tury, and  has  since  been  enlarged  and  improved.  Birk- 
hill is  an  elegant  and  spacious  mansion,  on  the  bank 
of  the  river,  and  embosomed  in  rich  and  beautiful 
plantations. 

A  salmon-fishery  was  formerly  carried  on  in  the  Tay, 

to  a  large  extent,  and  proved  a  source  of  great  gain, 

but,  since  the  prohibition  of  the  use   of  stake-nets,  in 

1816,   it   has    materially  declined;    the    quantity  pre- 

98 


viously  taken  in  the  Firth,  was,  on  an  average,  about 
30,000,  in  the  season  ;  at  present,  the  number  of  fish 
scarcely  amounts  to  one-tenth  part.  Since  this  altera- 
tion, several  who  were  once  employed  in  the  fishery, 
are  now  engaged  in  weaving  at  their  own  houses,  for  the 
manufacturers  of  Dundee  ;  the  principal  articles  woven 
are  dowlas  and  Osnaburghs,  in  which  about  150  per- 
sons are  engaged,  of  whom  a  large  portion  are  women. 
Great  quantities  of  grain  were  formerly  shipped  from 
the  harbour  of  this  place,  which  was  the  chief  port,  on 
the  south  side  of  the  Tay,  for  that  article  ;  but,  at  pre- 
sent, only  small  quantities  of  wheat  are  sent  by  the 
farmers  here,  to  the  bakers  of  Dundee,  by  a  passage-boat 
which  is  kept  up  by  subscription  of  the  parishioners. 
Considerable  quantities  of  potatoes  are  sent  to  the 
London  market ;  and  many  vessels  with  coal  land  their 
cargoes  here.  The  village  of  Balmerino  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  western  declivity  of  the  Scurr  hill,  al- 
ready mentioned. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod 
of  Fife;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £239.  9.,  with  a 
manse,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at  £18  per  annum.  The 
church,  a  neat  and  substantial  edifice  of  stone,  erected 
in  1811,  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish.  The 
parochial  school  affords  instruction  to  about  130 
scholars ;  the  master's  salary  is  £34.  4.  4.,  with  £2S 
fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  The  ruins  of  Balmerino 
Abbey  consist  chiefly  of  a  small  portion  of  the  walls, 
with  some  clustered  columns,  and  part  of  the  corbels 
from  which  sprang  the  arches  that,  supported  the  roof, 
and  which  are  in  the  decorated  English  style  ;  and  of 
one  cell,  still  in  tolerable  preservation.  There  are  also 
remains  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Naughton,  said  to  have 
been  built  soon  after  the  Conquest,  by  Robert  de  Lundon ; 
they  comprise  only  some  fragments  of  the  side  walls, 
which  derive  their  chief  importance  from  their  situation, 
on  the  summit  of  a  lofty  crag  rising  almost  perpendicu- 
larly from  a  deep  and  richly-wooded  dell.  An  esta- 
blishment of  Culdees  is  said  to  have  existed  here,  in 
connexion  with  those  of  St.  Andrew's  ;  and  in  a  field  in 
the  parish,  still  called  the  Battle  Law,  an  engagement 
is  reported  to  have  taken  place  between  the  Scots  and 
the  Danes,  of  whom  the  latter  were  driven  to  their  ships  : 
near  the  spot,  stone  coffins,  broken  armour,  and  bones 
have  been  discovered.  Some  years  since,  two  pieces  of 
gold  were  found  in  afield  on  the  farm  of  Peashills,  which 
appear  to  have  formed  ornaments  of  some  kind,  and 
were  of  the  value  of  £14  sterling. 

BALMORE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Balder- 
nock,  county  of  Stirling  ;  containing  15S  inhabitants. 
It  lies  in  the  south-eastern  portion  of  the  parish,  on  the 
road  between  Torrance  and  Bardowie,  and  about  half  a 
mile  south  of  the  Kelvin  water. 

BALMULLO,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Letjchars, 
district  of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of  Fife,  6  miles  (E.  S. 
E.)  from  St.  Andrew's;  containing  2/4  inhabitants. 
This  village  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  road  to  Dundee, 
and  consists  of  an  irregular  range  of  houses,  chiefly  in- 
habited by  persons  employed  in  weaving  and  in  agricul- 
ture. There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Original  Secession  Synod. 

BALNABRUACH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Tar- 
bat,  county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty  ;  containing  167 
inhabitants.  It  is  a  small  place,  situated  on  the  eastern 
coast,  and  chiefly  inhabited  by  fishermen. 


B  ALQ 


BANC 


BALNA-HUAIGH  ISLE,  one  of  the  Hebrides,  in 
the  parish  of  Jura,  district  of  Islay,  county  of  Ar- 
gyll. It  is  north  of  the  island  of  Jura,  and  of  Luing 
Sound,  and  is  about  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  en- 
tirely composed  of  a  biuish-coloured  slate,  of  good 
quality  :  a  number  of  families,  who  derive  their  sub- 
sistence from  the  quarry,  reside  upon  it. 

BALNASUIM,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Weem, 
county  of  Perth  ;   containing  4S  inhabitants. 

BALQUHIDDER,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth, 
9  miles  (S.  by  W.)  from  Killin  ;  containing,  with  the 
villages  of  Strathyre  and  Lochearnhead,  S71  inhabitants. 
This  parish,  of  which  the  name,  descriptive  of  its  situa- 
tion in  the  county,  is  derived  from  the  Gaelic,  is  about 
eighteen  miles  iu  length,  and  rather  more  than  six  miles 
in  breadth.  The  surface  is  very  irregular,  and  compre- 
hends a  rich  variety  of  valleys  and  hills,  of  level  lands 
and  deep  glens,  and  of  lofty  rocks  rising  abruptly  from 
the  plains.  The  principal  hills  are,  Benvorlich,  Ben- 
chroin,  Benvane,  Binean,  Benchoin,  and  Bentallachan  : 
near  the  hill  at  Edinample,  is  an  ancient  castle,  be- 
longing to  the  Marquess  of  Breadalbane,  embosomed 
in  a  wood  of  lofty  plane-trees,  near  which  is  a  beautiful 
cascade  ;  and  in  the  hill  of  Craigruigh,  Robert  Bruce  is 
said  to  have  concealed  himself  after  the  defeat  of  his 
forces  in  the  battle  of  Dalrey.  The  river  Balvag,  over 
which  are  two  bridges  in  good  repair,  rises  in  Lochvoil, 
winds  for  several  miles  through  the  parish,  and  falls 
into  Lochlubnaig;  and  the  small  river  Calair,  which 
issues  from  Glenbuckie,  though  generally  a  peaceful 
stream,  at  times  overflows  its  bauks,  and  acquires  the 
rapidity  of  a  torrent.  There  are  numerous  lakes  in  the 
parish,  of  which  the  principal  are,  Lochvoil,  Lochdoine, 
and  parts  of  Lochlubnaig  and  Lochearn.  The  scenery 
is  also  richly  embellished  with  woods,  consisting  mostly 
of  oak,  birch,  alder,  and  common  and  mountain  ash  ; 
and  with  thriving  plantations,  which  are  chiefly  of  Scotch 
and  spruce  firs,  and  larch-trees,  for  all  of  which  the 
ground  is  well  adapted. 

The  soil,  in  the  lower  lands,  is  fertile  ;  the  hills  afford 
pasture,  and  there  are  considerable  tracts  of  good  mea- 
dow ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  improved,  and  great 
attention  is  paid  to  the  improvement  of  the  breeds  of 
cattle  and  sheep ;  the  former  are  chiefly  of  the  West 
Highland  breed,  and  the  latter,  which  are  of  the  black- 
faced  kind,  command  a  ready  sale  in  the  neighbouring 
markets.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£6100.  The  rocks  are  mainly  of  mica  and  clay  slate, 
with  quartz,  porphyry,  and  primitive  greenstone.  Edin- 
ample Castle,  the  property  of  the  Marquess  of  Breadal- 
bane, an  ancient  mansion  romantically  situated,  and 
Glenbuckie  House,  a  handsome  modern  residence,  are 
the  only  houses  of  distinction.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of 
Dunblane  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling ;  the  stipend 
of  the  incumbent  is  £275.  15.  11.;  the  manse  is  a  com- 
fortable residence,  and  the  glebe  is  of  the  annual  value 
of  £20.  The  church,  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
parish,  is  an  ancient  edifice,  adapted  for  a  congregation 
of  425  persons.  The  parochial  school  affords  a  liberal 
course  of  instruction  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34.  4.  4|.,  with  £S  fees,  a  house,  and  two  bolls  of  meal 
in  lieu  of  a  garden.  In  a  field  near  the  manse,  is  an 
upright  stone,  about  five  feet  in  height,  called  Puidrac  ; 
but  nothing  of  its  history  is  known  ;  and  to  the  east  of 
99 


it,  is  a  spot  celebrated  as  the  site  of  a  desperate  battle 
between  the  families  of  McLaren  and  Leney.  The  late 
Sir  John  Mac  Gregor  Murray,  Bart.,  an  eminent  Gaelic 
scholar,  and  an  indefatigable  collector  of  the  writings 
of  the  ancient  Gaelic  bards,  and  who,  holding  the  rank 
of  colonel  in  the  British  army,  raised  at  his  own  ex- 
pense a  regiment  of  infantry  for  the  service  of  his 
country,  which  was  commanded  by  his  brother,  Colonel 
Alexander  Mac  Gregor  Murray,  was,  together  with  his 
brother,  buried  in  the  family  vault  in  this  parish. 

BALTA,  a  small  islet,  in  the  parish  of  Unst,  county 
of  Shetland.  This  is  nearly  the  northernmost  isle  of 
the  Shetland  range,  and  is  situated  in  the  latitude  of 
60°  4~'  north,  and  on  the  east  side  of  Unst  island,  the 
sea  between  being  called  Balta  Sound.  Here  the  shore 
of  Unst  forms  a  fine  and  safe  inland  harbour,  stretch- 
ing east  to  west  about  two  miles,  protected  at  its  mouth 
by  the  isle  of  Balta. 

BALWAHANAID,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Weem, 
county  of  Perth  ;   containing  23  inhabitants. 

BALWHERNE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Meth- 
ven,  county  of  Perth  ;   containing  60  inhabitants. 

BANCHQRY-DEVENICK,  a  parish,  partly  within, 
and  partly  without,  the  city  of  Aberdeen,  district  and 
county  of  Aberdeen,  but  mostly  in  the  county  of  Kin- 
cardine ;  including  the  villages  of  Downies,  Findon, 
and  Purtlethen,  and  containing  2736  inhabitants.  The 
cognomen  of  Devenick,  or  Davenick,  applied  to  this 
place,  is  derived  from  a  celebrated  saint  of  the  name  of 
Davenicus,  who  flourished  about  the  year  SS7,  and  who, 
at  one  time,  ministered  in  the  district.  The  parish  is 
about  5  miles  long,  and  3  broad,  and  contains  about 
10,000  acres.  The  river  Dee  forms  the  northern  boun- 
dary of  the  Kincardineshire  portion,  and  the  parish  is 
bounded  on  the  east  by  the  parish  of  Nigg  and  by  the 
sea ;  the  coast  extends  about  3  miles,  and  is  bold  and 
rocky,  and,  in  many  parts,  picturesque.  The  surface  is, 
in  general,  rugged  and  stony,  and  to  a  considerable  ex- 
tent covered  with  heath  ;  the  highest  land  is  a  part  of 
theTollow  hill,  the  most  easterly  of  the  Grampian  range, 
the  elevation  of  which  was  used  for  the  trigonometrical 
survey  of  the  country.  The  Dee,  which  is  the  only  river 
connected  with  the  district,  rises  among  the  highest 
mountains  of  Aberdeenshire,  and,  after  a  course  of 
about  60  miles,  passes  along  the  extremity  of  the  parish, 
forming  the  line  of  separation  between  the  counties  of 
Kincardine  and  Aberdeen  ;  it  is  here  about  250  feet 
wide,  and  falls  into  the  hay  of  Aberdeen  a  mile  and  a 
half  below  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish.  It  is 
subject  to  great  floods,  rising  sometimes  ten  or  eleven 
feet  above  its  usual  level,  in  consequence  of  which,  long 
and  expensive  embankments  have  been  raised,  lor  the 
protection  of  the  neighbouring  lands. 

The  soil  is  diversified,  running  through  all  the  va- 
rieties, from  pure  alluvial  to  hard  till,  and  from  rich 
loam  to  deep  moss  ;  agriculture  receives  much  attention, 
though  a  large  part  of  the  ground  is  in  its  natural  state, 
and  much  remains  yet  to  be  done.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £6946.  There  are  several  plan- 
tations, one  of  which  covers  250  acres,  but  the  proximity 
of  the  land  to  the  sea-coast  is  an  impediment  to  the 
growth  of  trees,  as  there  is  no  shelter  against  the  blight- 
ing influence  of  the  east  wind.  The  rocks  consist  chiefly 
of  blue  granite,  which  is  abundant  in  the  hilly  part  of 
the  parish  ;  but  its  texture  is  too  hard  to  admit  of  its 

02 


BANC 


BANC 


being  quarried  to  any  extent,  and  the  produce  obtained 
is  used  either  for  the  roads,  or  sent  for  sale  to  the  Lon- 
don market.  The  parish  is  entirely  rural,  and  its  popu- 
lation has  been  considerably  increased,  during  the  pre- 
sent century,  by  the  allotment  of  portions  of  uncultivated 
land,  with  encouragement  to  small  tenants,  by  which 
means  much  waste  ground  has  been  reclaimed,  and  a  con- 
siderable number  of  persons  that  worked  in  the  granite 
quarries  and  peat-mosses  of  Aberdeen,  brought  into 
this  district.  There  are  three  harbours  for  fishing-boats 
on  the  coast,  named  Findon,  Portlethen,  and  Dow- 
nies,  to  which  belong  about  eighteen  boats,  chiefly 
engaged  in  white-fishing,  except  during  the  herring- 
season,  at  which  time  several  of  them  are  employed  in 
the  Moray  Frith.  There  are  four  stations  for  sal- 
mon-fishing in  the  Dee,  but  they  have  been  for  some 
years  past  in  a  low  state,  from  the  great  scarcity  of  fish 
in  the  river.  The  great  road  from  Edinburgh  to  Aber- 
deen runs  through  the  parish,  and,  on  the  north  side  of 
the  Dee,  the  Deeside  turnpike-road  passes  through  the 
Aberdeenshire  division  ;  there  is  also  a  good  commuta- 
tion road  along  the  south  side  of  the  river.  A  suspen- 
sion bridge  has  been  recently  erected  over  the  Dee,  con- 
necting the  Aberdeenshire  portion  of  the  parish  with  the 
church  and  school,  and  which  cost  about  £1400,  inde- 
pendently of  an  embankment  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long, 
on  the  south  side,  facilitating  the  approach  to  the  bridge, 
and  which  cost  above  £50. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject,  to  the  pres- 
bytery of  Aberdeen  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  patron- 
age is  possessed  by  the  Crown,  and  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £159-  2.  9.,  partly  paid  from  the  exchequer,  with  a 
glebe  valued  at  £13.  6.  8.  per  annum.  The  church, 
which  contains  900  sittings,  was  built  in  1822,  on  the 
site  of  a  former  edifice,  the  bell  of  which  is  marked 
"  159/.''  At  Portlethen  is  a  chapel,  containing  300 
sittings,  the  minister  of  which,  who  has  been  duly  or- 
dained, has  a  stipend  of  £S0,  partly  from  seat-rents  : 
this  building,  which  is  situated  about  3^  miles  from  the 
church,  in  a  populous  district,  was  a  family  chapel  pre- 
viously to  the  Reformation.  Two  places  of  worship  in 
connexion  with  the  Free  Church  have  been  erected.  A 
parochial  school  is  maintained,  in  which  Latin  is  taught, 
with  the  ordinary  branches  of  education,  and  of  which 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £30,  a  portion  of  the  Dick 
bequest,  £20  fees,  and  £20  for  teaching  as  many  chil- 
dren, the  last  amount  being  an  endowment  by  a  person 
in  India.  There  are  three  other  schools,  namely,  one 
at  Portlethen,  the  master  of  which  has  the  interest  of 
a  benefaction  of  £200 ;  a  school  upon  the  estate  of 
Cults,  in  the  Aberdeenshire  district,  the  master  of  which 
receives  £25  per  annum  from  an  endowment;  and 
a  female  school,  built  by  a  bequest  of  £100  from  the 
late  Mr.  George  Hogg,  whose  father  had  been  for  many 
years  schoolmaster  at  Banchory,  and  endowed  with 
£200,  half  of  which  was  allotted  by  the  same  bene- 
factor, and  half  by  the  minister  of  the  parish.  A  paro- 
chial library  has  been  founded,  which  has  a  considerable 
number  of  volumes ;  and  a  friendly  society,  and  a 
savings'  bank  established  in  1822,  and  which  is  in  a 
very  flourishing  state,  are  supported.  The  antiquities 
of  the  parish  consist  of  two  Druidical  circles,  in  very 
fine  preservation  ;  and  three  very  large  tumuli,  occu- 
pying an  elevated  situation,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river. 

100 


BANCHORY-TERNAN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Kincardine,  15  miles  (N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Stonehaven  ; 
containing,  with  the  villages  of  Arbeadie  and  Banchory, 
2241  inhabitants,  of  whom  66  are  in  Banchory.  This 
place,  of  which  the  name,  signifying  "a  fine  choir,"  has 
reference  to  some  ancient  religious  establishment,  and  its 
adjunct  most  probably  to  its  patron  saint,  is  of  very  re- 
mote antiquity.  St.  Terne,  or  Ternanus,  who  is  said  to 
have  been  a  native  of  Mearns,  flourished  about  the  middle 
of  the  fifth  century,  and  accompanied  Palladius,  in  his 
mission  to  the  Irish  Scots  ;  and  by  him  he  was  ordained, 
and  commissioned  to  extirpate  the  Pelagian  heresy,  and  to 
establish  the  true  faith  among  his  own  countrymen.  In 
this  undertaking,  his  eminent  success  and  sanctity  of 
life  obtained  for  him  a  high  degree  of  veneration,  and 
many  churches  were  afterwards  erected  and  dedicated 
to  his  memory,  among  which  was  the  church  of  this 
parish.  In  1562,  a  battle  took  place  between  the  army 
of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  under  the  Earl  of  Moray,  and 
the  forces  of  the  Earl  of  Huntly,  at  the  How  of  Corri- 
chie,  a  glen  in  the  hills  of  Fare,  towards  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  parish,  in  which  the  latter  were  de- 
feated with  great  slaughter,  and  the  Earl  of  Huntly, 
who  was  taken  prisoner,  died  before  he  was  removed 
from  the  field  of  battle.  In  the  bottom  of  the  glen  are 
several  tumuli,  raised  over  the  bodies  of  the  slain  ;  and 
a  recess  among  the  rocks  overlooking  the  glen,  in  which, 
it  is  said,  Mary  witnessed  the  engagement,  is  still  called 
the  Queen's  chair.  There  are  also  numerous  tumuli  on 
the  north  side  of  Glassel,  where  the  chief  carnage  took 
place.  In  1644,  the  Duke  of  Montrose,  having  crossed 
the  river  Dee,  at  a  ford  near  the  Mills  of  Drum,  in  this 
parish,  passed  a  night  at  the  house  of  Leys,  and  next 
day  proceeded  to  Aberdeen,  where  he  encountered  and 
defeated  an  army  of  the  Covenanters  ;  and  the  remains 
of  his  encampment  on  a  subsequent  occasion,  on  his 
route  to  Strathbogie,  not  far  from  the  How  of'Corrichie, 
are  still  pointed  out,  under  the  appellation  of  Montrose's 
Dyke. 

The  parish  is  situated  on  the  river  Dee,  which  inter- 
sects the  southern  portion  of  it,  from  west  to  east, 
throughout  its  whole  extent;  it  is  nearly  ten  miles  in 
length,  and  about  nine  miles  in  breadth,  of  irregular 
form,  comprising  an  area  of  21,600  acres,  of  which 
rather  more  than  6000  are  arable,  5230  woodland  and 
plantations,  and  the  remainder,  of  which  a  considerable 
portion  might  be  brought  into  cultivation,  meadow, 
pasture,  and  waste.  The  surface  is  strikingly  diversified 
with  hill  and  dale,  and  with  wood  and  water.  The  hill 
of  Fare,  on  the  north,  has  an  elevation  of  1793  feet ; 
that  of  Kerloak,  on  the  south,  forming  a  part  of  the 
Grampian  range,  and  extending  eastward  to  the  sea  at 
Aberdeen,  is  1S90  feet  high;  and  between  these,  is  a 
lower  ridge,  of  which  the  greatest  elevation  is  not  more 
than  1000  feet.  That  portion  of  the  parish  which  is  on 
the  south  side  of  the  Dee,  is  intersected  by  the  river 
Feugh,  and  is  richly  wooded,  and  interspersed  with 
masses  of  barren  and  precipitous  rock  ;  the  scenery  is 
bold,  enlivened  with  numerous  rivulets,  and  embellished 
with  handsome  mansions.  At  the  eastern  extremity 
is  Loch  Drum,  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Drumoak,  which 
has  been  nearly  exhausted  by  draining  ;  and  in  the 
central  portion  is  Loch  Leys,  in  which  is  an  artificial 
island,  formed  on  piles  of  oak,  with  remains  of  ancient 
houses  that  appear  to  have  been  fortified.     The  river 


BANC 


B  A  N  F 


Dee,  which  enters  the  parish  near  Trustach  Hill,  flows 
through  a  rocky  channel ;  and  its  stream  is  divided  by 
two  small  islands,  of  which  one,  about  eight  acres  in 
extent,  is  covered  with  furze  and  heath,  and  the  other, 
of  about  one  acre,  and  of  greater  elevation  above  the 
surface,  is  planted  with  trees.  The  Feugh,  after  form- 
ing various  pleasing  falls,  divides  into  two  channels, 
which,  reuniting,  flow  into  the  Dee,  almost  in  the  centre 
of  the  parish  ;  it  passes  under  a  bridge  of  two  arches  near 
its  principal  fall  over  a  ledge  of  rock  about  twenty  feet 
in  height. 

The  soil  varies  greatly  in  different  parts,  but  is  gene- 
rally light,  and  not  naturally  fertile  ;  towards  the  river, 
gravelly  ;  on  the  higher  grounds,  a  strong  loam  :  and 
on  the  lower,  a  species  of  moss,  intermixed  with  gravel. 
The  system  of  agriculture  is  improved  ;  the  chief  crops 
are,  oats,  barley,  and  some  wheat,  with  potatoes,  tur- 
nips, and  hay,  and  the  moorlands  afford  tolerable  pas- 
ture for  sheep  and  cattle,  to  the  improvement  of  which 
much  attention  has  been  excited  by  the  Deeside  Agricul- 
tural Association,  which  holds  its  annual  meeting  here, 
and  awards  prizes,  to  the  amount  of  £70,  to  the  most 
successful  competitors  at  the  show  of  cattle.  The 
dairy-farms  are  more  carefully  attended  to  than  for- 
merly ;  the  buildings  are  substantial  and  commodious, 
and  threshing-mills  have  been  erected  on  most  of  the 
farms.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£*479-  The  hills  are  principally  of  red  granite,  tra- 
versed by  veins  of  sulphate  of  barytes  ;  and  limestone, 
in  some  parts  of  coarse  and  inferior  quality,  and  in 
others  compact  and  highly  crystallized,  is  found  in 
abundance,  and  is  extensively  quarried  on  the  lands  of 
Tilwhilly,  for  agricultural  purposes.  The  plantations, 
which  are  of  very  great  extent,  consist  chiefly  of  pine 
and  larch,  interspersed  with  birch,  oak,  beech,  ash,  and 
a  few  other  trees  ;  they  are  of  comparatively  modern 
growth,  and  considerable  additions  have,  within  the  last 
few  years,  been  made  to  the  number  of  forest  trees,  of 
which  nearly  70,000  oaks  have  been  planted  on  the 
lands  of  Leys.  On  the  road  to  Aberdeen,  is  a  remark- 
ably fine  holly,  of  more  than  twenty  stems,  springing 
from  the  crevices  of  a  rock  ;  and  in  the  grounds  of 
Crathes  Castle,  is  a  beech-tree,  25  feet  in  girth,  and  60 
feet  high.  Crathes  Castle,  a  handsome  baronial  mansion, 
erected  about  the  year  1512,  is  finely  situated  on  a 
gentle  acclivity,  at  the  extremity  of  a  rocky  and  richly- 
wooded  ridge,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Dee ;  it  is  a 
spacious  structure,  with  a  lofty  square  tower  crowned  by 
embattled  turrets,  and  many  modern  additions  have 
been  made.  The  ancient  hall  is  still  entire,  and  contains 
some  family  portraits,  among  which  is  a  portrait  of 
Dr.  Gilbert  Burnet,  Bishop  of  Salisbury,  by  Sir  God- 
frey Kneller.  The  Castle  of  Tilwhilly,  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  river,  is  an  ancient  massive  building,  in 
the  occupation  of  the  tenant  of  the  farm  ;  Banchory 
Lodge,  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  church,  was 
erected  by  the  late  General  Burnet ;  Inchmarlo  is  a 
handsome  mansion,  erected  in  1800,  and  Glassel  and 
Raemoir  are  also  good  modern  houses.  The  village  of 
Banchory,  or  the  Kirktown,  which  was  anciently  a 
burgh  of  barony,  and  is  noticed,  in  1324,  as  a  place  of 
considerable  importance,  and  in  which  was  held  the 
baronial  court  of  Leys,  has  almost  disappeared ;  and 
only  a  few  houses  in  the  vicinity  of  the  churchyard, 
called  the  Town  Head,  are  now  remaining,  and  the 
101 


shaft  of  a  broken  stone  cross.  A  small  woollen-factory 
has  been  established,  and  there  are  likewise  two 
bobbin  factories  carried  on  ;  salmon  is  taken  in  the 
Dee,  but  there  is  no  regular  fishery.  Fairs,  chiefly  for 
horses,  cattle,  and  sheep,  are  held  on  the  second  Tuesday 
in  February,  the  last  Thursday  in  March,  the  third  Tues- 
day in  June,  the  first  Tuesday  in  July,  the  second  Tuesday 
in  August,  and  the  first  Wednesday  in  December. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Kincardine  O'Neil  and 
synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  Sir.T.  Burnet,  Bart.,  is  patron,  and 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £2S7.  10.  9.,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £10  per  annum.  The  church,  rebuilt  in 
1S24,  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  later  English 
style,  and  contains  1300  sittings.  A  place  of  worship 
has  been  erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church  ; 
and  in  the  village  of  Arbeadie,  is  a  meeting-house  for 
Independents.  There  are  three  parochial  schools,  the 
masters  of  which  divide  among  them  £51.  6.  6f.,  in 
addition  to  a  house  and  garden  for  each,  and  the  fees 
average  respectively  £20,  £16,  and  £10  per  annum.  A 
school  was  founded  and  endowed  in  163S,  by  Sir  Thomas 
Burnet,  in  conjunction  with  Dr.  Alexander  Reid,  and 
is  conducted  by  one  of  the  parochial  schoolmasters,  who 
derives  an  additional  salary  of  £16  from  the  endowment. 
A  parochial  library  has  also  been  established,  which  has 
a  collection  of  more  than  400  volumes,  chiefly  on  reli- 
gious subjects.  At  Cairnton,  on  the  hill  of  Trustach, 
are  some  remains  of  an  old  intrenchment,  now  covered 
with  birch,  about  150  yards  square,  defended  by  two 
ramparts  of  earth,  300  yards  in  length,  extending  from 
the  inclosure  in  a  converging  direction,  leaving  an 
opening  of  about  twenty  yards  in  width  at  their  ex- 
tremities ;  it  is  supposed  to  have  been  a  Roman  camp. 
Near  Kerloak,  are  Druidical  remains,  consisting  of  three 
circles  of  upright  stones,  nearly  entire,  the  largest  of 
which  is  about  25  yards  in  diameter,  and  the  others 
about  15  yards;  in  each  of  them,  are  vestiges  of  an 
inner  circle  inclosing  a  small  cairn.  Bishops  Burnet 
and  Douglas,  both  of  Salisbury,  were  descended  from 
families  connected  with  this  parish. 

BANETON,  or  Baynton,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Kennoway,  district  of  KiRKCALnY,  county  of  Fife, 
1  mile  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Kennoway  ;  containing  204  in- 
habitants. It  is  in  the  north-eastern  portion  of  the 
parish,  and  a  little  north  of  the  road  between  Kennoway 
and  Cupar. 

BANFF,  a  sea-port,  burgh , 
market-town,  and  parish,  in 
the  county  of  Banff,  ofwhich 
it  is  the  chief  town,  165  miles 
(N.  by  E.)  from  Edinburgh, 
WM  on  *ne  roa0-  from  Aberdeen 
|Jp  to  Inverness;  containing3958 
'iwW  inhabitants.  This  place,  called 
in  ancient  records,  Bainiffe. 
Boineffe,  &e.,  appears  to  have 
derived  its  name  from  the 
district  in  which  it  is  situated, 
and  which  obtained  the  ap- 
pellation of  Boyn  from  the  Gaelic,  signifying  "a 
stream,"  in  reference  to  the  river  Boyn,  by  which  it  is 
intersected.  The  town,  previously  to  the  middle  of 
the  16th  century,  was  little  more  than  a  small  fishing 
village,  and  seems  to  have  owed  its  origin  to  the  founda- 


Seal  and  Arms. 


■'.  o'-^ 


BANF 


B  A  N  F 


tion  of  a  Carmelite  monastery,  which  was  occasionally 
the  residence  of  some  of  the  Scottish  kings ;  and  to  the 
erection  of  a  castle,  governed  by  a  thane,  or  constable, 
who  administered  justice,  and  of  which  the  only  vestiges 
now  remaining  are,  a  portion  of  the  outer  walls,  and 
the  ditch  by  which  it  was  surrounded.  Few  transac- 
tions of  historical  importance  occur  with  reference  to 
the  place.  In  1644,  the  lairds  of  Gight,  Newtown,  and 
Ardlogie,  with  a  party  of  horse  and  foot,  made  an 
irruption  into  the  town,  and  levied  exactions  upon  the 
bailies,  in  the  absence  of  the  provost,  who  had  taken 
flight,  and  compelled  them  and  the  townsmen  to  abjure 
the  covenant,  and  to  acknowledge  submission  to  the 
king  and  his  deputies,  as  formerly.  In  the  following 
year,  the  Marquess  of  Montrose  entered  the  town  with 
a  hostile  force,  plundered  the  inhabitants,  and  burnt 
several  of  their  houses,  in  compensation  for  which  losses, 
they  obtained,  on  their  petition  to  parliament,  a  grant 
of  their  own  excise.  In  1746,  the  Duke  of  Cumberland's 
troops,  on  their  march  to  Culloden,  passed  through  the 
town,  burnt  the  episcopal  chapel,  and  hanged  one  of  the 
inhabitants,  whom  they  suspected  of  being  a  spy ;  and 
in  1759,  a  French  fleet,  under  the  command  of  Thurot, 
appeared  off  the  coast ;  but  the  apprehensions  of  the 
inhabitants  were  relieved  by  the  dispersion  of  their 
vessels  in  a  storm,  before  the  enemy  attempted  to  effect 
alanding.  A  battery  of  eighteen  and  twenty-four  pounders 
was  subsequently  erected,  on  the  heights  immediately 
above  the  harbour,  at  an  expense  of  £400,  defrayed  by 
the  inhabitants;  but,  soon  after  the  peace,  it  was  dis- 
mounted, and  the  cannon  returned  to  the  government, 
by  whom  they  had  been  supplied. 

The  town  consists  of  two  portions,  detached  from 
each  other,  one  of  which,  constituting  the  port,  stands 
on  an  elevated  level,  terminating  abruptly  towards  the 
Moray  Frith,  and  having  the  battery  at  its  northern 
extremity.  Between  this  and  the  other  portion,  which 
is  partly  on  the  plain,  and  partly  on  the  declivity 
of  the  bank  of  the  river  Doveran,  is  the  present  castle, 
a  plain  modern  building,  occupying  an  elevated  site,  and 
commanding  the  sweep  of  the  river,  with  the  fine  slope 
on  the  opposite  side,  surmounted  with  the  woods  of 
Mounteoffer.  The  streets  are  regular  and  spacious,  and 
the  houses,  though  unequal  in  size,  are  in  general  neatly 
built ;  most  of  the  older  houses  have  been  taken  down, 
and  rebuilt  in  a  modern  style,  and  the  town  retains  few 
indications  of  its  real  antiquity.  The  streets  are  lighted 
with  gas,  by  a  joint-stock  company  established  in  1831  ; 
and  the  inhabitants  are  supplied  with  water,  conveyed 
into  the  town  by  pipes  laid  down  in  1810,  at  an  expense 
of  £1100,  and  by  pumps  attached  to  several  of  the 
houses.  Hot,  cold,  and  shower  baths,  fitted  up  with 
every  accommodation,  have  lately  been  established,  by 
a  company  ;  and  in  connexion  with  a  literary  society 
founded  in  1810,  and  which  has  a  library  of  2000 
volumes,  is  a  reading-room,  well  supplied  with  news- 
papers and  the  most  popular  periodical  prints.  An 
institution  for  the  cultivation  of  science  and  the  en- 
couragement of  native  talent,  was  founded  in  1S28,  and 
has  collected  a  museum  of  natural  history,  antiquities, 
and  curiosities,  among  which  is  a  very  extensive  collec- 
tion of  the  most  beautiful  shells  found  in  Java  and  in 
the  Eastern  Archipelago.  A  room  in  the  town-hall  is 
appropriated,  by  the  magistrates,  to  the  use  of  the 
literary  society. 
102 


A  principal  trade  of  the  port  is  the  herring-fishery, 
which,  within  the  last  thirty  years,  has  been  established 
on  the  shores  of  the  Frith,  with  considerable  success, 
and  is  still  very  prosperous.  The  quantity  of  fish  cured 
in  the  district  of  Banff,  which  extends  from  Gardens- 
town  to  Portsoy,  is,  in  favourable  seasons,  about  30,000 
barrels,  of  which  one-half  is  sent  to  Germany,  a  con- 
siderable quantity  to  London,  and  the  remainder  to  Ire- 
land. The  number  of  herring-boats  from  the  port  of 
Banff  alone,  has  fluctuated  exceedingly,  and  is  at  pre- 
sent very  much  reduced,  probably  from  the  want  of 
room  near  the  harbour,  for  the  erection  of  the  requisite 
buildings,  and  from  the  higher  rate  of  dues;  but  the 
general  trade  of  the  district  is  still  flourishing.  Cod, 
ling,  and  turbot  are  found  in  abundance,  off  the  coast, 
and,  if  prosecuted  with  spirit,  might  add  greatly  to  the 
trade  of  the  port ;  and  lobsters,  crabs,  shrimps,  and 
other  fish  are  brought  to  the  markets,  but  only  for  home 
consumption,  though  the  bay  abounds  with  shrimps, 
which  might  be  made  a  profitable  branch  of  trade.  The 
salmon-fishery  in  the  river  Doveran,  which  is  the  pro- 
perty of  Lord  Fife,  is  let  for  £1600  per  annum,  and 
there  is,  on  each  side  of  the  estuary,  a  fishery  in  the 
open  sea,  of  which  one  is  let  by  the  corporation  for 
£191  per  annum  ;  the  salmon  are  sent,  either  packed 
in  ice,  or  pickled,  principally  to  the  London  market. 
A  very  considerable  trade  is  also  carried  on  in  the  ex- 
portation of  grain,  live  cattle,  and  cured  pork;  and  in 
the  importation  of  coal,  groceries,  and  other  commodities. 
During  a  recent  year,  29,790  quarters  of  oats,  1174 
quarters  of  wheat,  976  quarters  of  barley  and  bear,  and 
194  bags  of  potatoe-flour,  w:ere  shipped  from  the  port, 
chiefly  for  London  and  Leith  ;  and  440  head  of  live 
cattle,  911  pigs,  and  156  sheep  and  lambs,  for  the  Lon- 
don market  alone.  The  trade  in  cattle  has  since  greatly 
increased;  and  in  1S41,  not  less  than  179*2  head  of 
cattle  were  sent  to  London.  The  number  of  vessels 
registered  at  Banff,  as  the  head  of  the  district,  is  sixty- 
seven,  of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  4301  tons;  of  these, 
ten  schooners  of  S78  tons,  and  eleven  sloops  of  657  tons 
aggregate  burthen,  belong  to  this  port,  and  the  remain- 
der to  the-  several  creeks  of  Fraserburgh,  Gardenstown, 
Macduff,  Portsoy,  Port-Gordon,  and  Garmouth.  Seve- 
ral of  these  vessels  make  voyages  to  Sweden,  for  iron 
and  deals  ;  to  Prussia,  for  hemp  ;  and  to  Holland,  for 
flax  ;  and,  in  the  autumn,  frequently  to  Hamburgh 
and  Stettin,  with  cargoes  of  herrings,  bringing  in  return 
grain,  wool,  bark,  and  hides. 

The  harbour  is  situated  at  the  western  extremity  of 
a  circular  bay,  at  the  opposite  extremity  of  which  are 
the  town  and  harbour  of  Macduff;  both  these  extremi- 
ties are  rocky,  and  between  them  is  a  beach  of  sand. 
The  old  or  inner  harbour,  completed  in  1775,  was 
formed  by  two  piers  and  the  land,  inclosing  a  triangular 
area,  having  at  the  angle  towards  the  north-north-east, 
an  entrance  which,  in  18 16,  was  protected  by  a  new 
pier  and  breakwater,  forming  a  basin,  or  outer  harbour, 
to  the  north  of  the  former.  This  addition,  which  was 
made  under  the  superintendence  of  the  late  Mr.  Telford, 
at  an  expense  of  £18,000,  one-half  of  which  was  de- 
frayed by  government,  though  not  productive  of  all  the 
benefit  expected  from  it,  as  ships  have  since  been  wrecked 
in  the  new  basin,  has  still  materially  diminished  the 
swell  in  the  old  harbour,  now  one  of  the  safest  in  the 
Moray  Frith,  and  has  afforded  additional  facilities  for 


B  A  N  F 


BANF 


the  entrance  and  departure  of  vessels.  A  vessel  draw- 
ing 12  feet  water  can  enter  the  new  basin,  at  high- 
water  of  neap  tides,  and  one  drawing  15  feet,  at 
spring  tides  ;  and  vessels  drawing  respectively  S  and 
10§  feet  water,  may  enter  the  old  harbour  at  high-water 
of  neap  and  spring  tides.  A  patent  slip,  on  Morton's 
principle,  has  been  constructed  in  the  harbour.  Ship- 
building is  occasionally  carried  on,  and  there  is  a  small 
manufactory  for  ropes  and  sails,  chiefly  for  home  use ; 
the  thread  and  stocking  manufacture,  formerly  pursued 
here,  has  been  discontinued  for  some  years.  A  public 
brewery,  erected  on  the  high  ground  above  the  harbour, 
was  once  conducted  on  a  large  scale,  but,  of  late,  has 
been  confined  to  the  supply  of  the  immediate  neighbour- 
hood :  a  distillery  at  the  Mill  of  Banff,  about  a  mile 
from  the  town,  produces  on  an  average  from  11,000  to 
12,000  gallons  of  proof  spirits  annually.  A  foundry  for 
machinery,  grates,  ploughshares,  and  various  kinds  of 
cast-metal  work,  was  established  about  fifteen  years 
since,  by  Messrs.  Fraser,  and  affords  employment  to  ten 
men  ;  the  works  are  set  in  motion  by  a  steam-engine  of 
six-horse  power,  constructed  by  the  proprietors.  The 
market  is  on  Friday,  and  is  well  supplied  with  fish  of 
every  kind  ;  there  are  no  cattle-markets,  and,  though 
by  charter  the  inhabitants  are  allowed  seven  or  eight 
fairs,  only  four  are  held,  and  of  these,  the  Whit- 
sun-fair  alone  is  of  any  consideration.  Coaches  pass 
daily  to  and  from  Aberdeen  and  Elgin,  and  to  and  from 
Peterhead. 

From  a  grant  of  a  toft  and  garden  in  the  burgh,  by 
William  the  Lion,  in  1165,  to  his  chaplain,  Douglas, 
Bishop  of  Moray,  the  town  appears  to  have  been  pre- 
viously a  royal  burgh  ;  and,  according  to  tradition,  it 
received  from  Malcolm  Canmore,  those  privileges  which 
were  ratified  by  Robert  Bruce,  and  subsequently,  in 
13/2,  by  Robert  II.,  who  also  conferred  upon  the  inha- 
bitants liberties  equal  to  those  of  Aberdeen,  which  were 
afterwards  confirmed  by  James  VI.  and  Charles  II. 
The  government  is  vested  in  a  provost,  four  bailies,  a 
dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and  ten  councillors,  all  elected 
by  the  £10  constituency;  the  corporation  revenue  is 
about  £1200.  The  taxes  and  assessments  for  the  burgh, 
however,  are  not  imposed  as  in  other  burghs,  by  the 
magistrates  and  council,  but  by  the  inhabitants  them- 
selves, assembled  in  a  special  court  for  that  purpose. 
The  affairs  of  police  are  under  the  management  of  com- 
missioners, who  are  elected  in  accordance  with  the  pro- 
visions of  a  particular  act  of  parliament,  and  by  whose 
authority  the  police  rates  are  levied  and  expended.  No 
one  could  formerly  carry  on  business  without  becoming  a 
member  of  the  merchant-guildry  of  Banff,  or  of  the 
incorporated  trades,  of  which  there  are  six,  namely,  the 
hammermen,  wrights,  shoemakers,  tailors,  coopers,  and 
weavers,  who  all  claim  exclusive  privileges.  The  town 
is  classed  with  Elgin,  Cullen,  Inverury,  Kintore,  and 
Peterhead,  in  returning  a  member  to  the  imperial  par- 
liament ;  and  under  the  Reform  act,  the  constituency 
includes  the  qualified  voters  in  the  neighbouring,  and 
otherwise  independent,  burgh  of  Macduff.  The  town- 
hall,  a  spacious  but  plain  building,  erected  within  the 
last  sixty  years,  occupies  two  sides  of  a  quadrangle, 
with  a  tower  at  the  external  angle,  of  older  date, 
surmounted  by  a  spire  of  graceful  proportion,  together 
100  feet  high  ;  the  building  is  of  hewn  stone,  three  stories 
in  height,  and  contains  a  hall,  two  large  drawing-rooms, 
103 


a  council-chamber,  a  court-room  for  the  sheriff's  court, 
oflices  for  the  chamberlain  and  sheriff  clerks,  and  the 
prisons  for  the  burgh.  The  old  prison  contained  two 
apartments,  each  nineteen  feet  square,  for  the  reception 
of  civil  prisoners  ;  and  two  cells  for  criminals;  but  they 
were  badly  arranged,  and  totally  inadequate  for  the  pur- 
pose of  classification.  The  new  jail,  by  which  the  old 
one  has  been  superseded,  is  on  the  best  principles. 

The  parish,  which  formed  part  of  that  of  Boyndie 
till  1634,  is  about  six  miles  and  a  half  in  length,  and 
two  miles  and  a  half  in  breadth  in  the  centre,  from 
which,  towards  each  extremity,  it  diminishes  materially  ; 
comprehending  about  6312  acres,  of  which  3778  are 
good  arable  land,  1161  uncultivated  and  in  pasture, 
and  about  220  wood.  It  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the 
river  Doveran,  which  has  its  source  on  the  confines  of 
the  counties  of  Aberdeen  and  Banff,  and  falls  into 
the  sea  at  the  town  ;  and  on  the  west,  by  the  burn  of 
Boyndie,  by  which  it  is  separated  from  the  parish  of 
that  name.  Over  the  former  of  these  rivers,  situated 
close  to  the  town,  is  a  substantial  stone  bridge  of 
seven  semicircular  arches,  erected  at  the  expense  of 
government,  in  1779;  and  over  the  latter,  are  two  stone 
bridges,  of  two  arches  each.  The  surface  is  very  un- 
even, rising,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  parish,  from  200  to 
300  feet  above  the  sea,  and  forming  an  eminence  called 
the  Callow  Mill;  and  in  the  upper  part  of  the  parish, 
are  eminences  of  much  greater  elevation,  though  less 
raised  above  the  surface  of  the  adjacent  lands.  The 
system  of  agriculture  is  improved  ;  and  within  the  last 
forty  years,  a  large  tract  of  land,  previously  in  pas- 
ture, has  been  brought  under  tillage.  Draining  has  also 
been  carried  on  to  a  very  considerable  extent,  and  the 
greater  portion  of  the  land  is  inclosed  with  fences  of 
stone  ;  the  farm-houses  and  offices  are  generally  well 
built,  and  many  of  them  afford  superior  accommodations. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £12,SS9,  in- 
cluding £6977  for  the  burgh.  The  substrata  are  chiefly 
clay-slate  and  greywacke.  At  Cairn  of  Ord,  in  the 
south-western  part  of  the  parish,  is  found  granite,  which, 
in  some  places,  rises  to  the  surface  ;  it  is  of  excellent 
quality  for  building,  and  has  been  quarried  for  that  pur- 
pose, but,  on  account  of  its  distance  from  the  sea,  it  has 
not  been  worked  to  any  great  extent.  The  scenery  is, 
in  several  parts,  pleasing,  and  in  others  romantic  and 
picturesque  :  the  rher  Doveran,  on  its  first  entering  the 
parish,  winds  into  a  rocky  glen,  of  which  the  steep  sides, 
crowned  with  luxuriant  wood,  are  connected  by  a  cir- 
cular arch  of  stone  ;  beyond  this  point,  the  glen  gradu- 
ally expands  into  an  open  valley,  round  the  eastern  side 
of  which  the  river  forms  a  graceful  curve,  inclosing  the 
plain  on  which  Duff  House  is  situated.  The  road  from 
Aberdeen  winds  round  the  verge  of  a  verdant  hill,  on 
the  extremity  of  which,  sloping  towards  the  sea,  and 
stretching  into  the  bay,  is  the  town  of  Macduff;  and  on 
the  western  side,  near  the  bend  of  the  river,  rises  a  pre- 
cipitous bank,  on  the  summit  of  which  is  seen  the 
mausoleum  of  the  Duff  family,  embosomed  in  shelter- 
ing woods,  and,  near  it,  a  funereal  urn  containing  some 
human  bones  that  were  found  on  the  spot,  which  was 
formerly  the  cemetery  of  the  Carmelite  monastery. 
Duff  House,  the  splendid  residence  of  the  Earl  of  Fife, 
occupies  the  grounds  formerly  belonging  to  the  monas- 
tery, which  were,  in  1630,  conveyed  to  Lord  Airlie,  and, 
in  1690,  to  Lord  Fife,  who,  in  1752,  purchased  the  supe- 


BAN  F 


B  A  N  F 


riority,  which  had  been  granted  by  James  VI.  to  King's 
College,  Aberdeen.  The  mansion  was  erected  about  the 
middle  of  the  last  century,  by  Lord  Braco,  after  a  de- 
sign by  Adams,  the  first  architect  of  that  name,  at  an 
expense  of  £/0,000;  it  is  a  spacious  quadrilateral  struc- 
ture of  freestone,  in  the  Roman  style  of  architecture, 
and  contains  a  choice  collection  of  paintings  of  the 
Flemish  and  Italian  schools,  and  numerous  portraits  by 
the  most  eminent  masters.  The  demesne  is  richly 
planted,  and  comprehends  much  interesting  scenery  ; 
and,  from  many  points,  commands  extensive  and  varied 
prospects. 

The  parish  is  ecclesiastically  in  the  presbytery 
of  Fordyce  and  synod  of  Aberdeen;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £245.  19.  9.,  with  a  manse,  and  the  glebe  is 
valued  at  £45  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Seafield.  The  church, 
situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  town,  is  a  plain  struc- 
ture, erected  in  1790,  and  is  capable  of  containing  1500 
persons  ;  the  interior  is  chastely  decorated,  and  has  some 
handsome  monuments  of  marble,  one  of  which,  by  Bacon, 
representing  a  soldier  weeping  over  a  funereal  vase,  is 
finely  executed,  and  was  erected  by  Sir  David  Ochterlony, 
and  thearmyunder  his  command, to  the  memory  ofLieut.- 
Col.  Lawtie,  a  native  of  this  place.  A  chapel  in  con- 
nexion with  the  Established  Church,  for  a  district  includ- 
ing the  more  remote  portion  of  the  parish  and  others 
adjoining,  and  a  manse,  have  recently  been  erected,  at  the 
upperendof  the  parish, at  an  expenseof  £600;  the  stipend 
of  the  minister  is  derived  from  the  seat-rents,  augmented 
with  £20  Royal  bounty.  There  are  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church,  Episcopalians,  members 
of  the  United  Secession,  Independents,  and  Wesleyans, 
and  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel.  A  grammar  school  was 
founded  in  17S6,  under  the  direction  of  Dr.  Chapman, 
formerly  rector  of  the  grammar  school  of  Dumfries  ; 
the  number  of  boys  usually  attending  is  about  170,  and 
the  rector,  who  is  obliged  to  employ  two  qualified  assist- 
ants, has  a  considerable  salary  from  the  funds  of  the 
town.  This  school  is  endowed  with  funds,  the  interest 
of  which  is  regularly  appropriated  to  the  maintenance  of 
sixteen  bursaries  ;  one,  in  the  gift  of  the  presbytery  of 
Fordyce,  is  worth  about  £30,  and  the  others  are  from 
£2  to  £3  per  annum.  A  free  school  was  founded  by 
Mr.  Alexander  Pirie,  who,  in  1804,  bequeathed  to  the 
town-council  and  kirk-session  £1100  for  that  purpose, 
with  a  tenement,  and  £100  for  the  erection  of  a  school- 
house  and  house  for  the  master.  Mr.  George  Smith,  a 
native  of  Fordyce,  by  will  dated  at  Bombay,  in  1769, 
vested  in  the  magistrates  of  Banff,  the  residue  of  his 
estate,  amounting  to  £10,297.  16.  6.,  of  which  he  appro- 
priated £1000  to  the  endowment  of  an  infirmary  in  this 
town  or  at  Fordyce,  and  £40  per  annum  to  a  school- 
master, to  educate  as  many  boys  of  the  name  of  Smith 
as  the  funds  would  maintain,  at  £25  per  annum  each  ; 
the  dividends,  amounting  to  £308.  18.  8.,  are  applied  ac- 
cording to  the  will,  and  nine  boys  are  maintained  and 
educated.  Mr.  James  Wilson,  of  Grenada,  vested  the 
whole  of  his  stock,  after  the  decease  of  certain  annui- 
tants, in  the  magistrates  of  Banff,  to  be  appropriated  to 
charitable  purposes,  according  to  their  discretion  ;  this 
estate,  which  ultimately  produced  £3561.  16.  1.  three 
per  cents,  and  £2647  in  cash,  was  appropriated  to  the 
erection  of  an  infant  school,  a  free  school  on  the 
Madras  system,  and  class-rooms  for  the  grammar  school 
teachers,  with  a  library  and  museum.  Mr.  Alexander 
104 


Cassy,  a  native  of  the  town,  then  resident  in  Pentonville, 
in  1S19,  bequeathed  the  residue  of  his  estates  to  the 
magistrates,  to  be  appropriated  to  the  half-yearly  relief 
of  aged  and  infirm  persons  and  helpless  orphans  ;  of 
this  property,  £10,000  three  per  cents  have  already 
fallen  into  the  disposal  of  the  trustees,  who  apply  the 
dividends.  Miss  Elizabeth  Wilson,  in  1825,  bequeathed 
to  trustees  the  whole  property  of  svhich  she  should  die 
possessed,  the  produce  to  be  appropriated  to  six  poor 
tradesmen  and  six  poor  maidens  ;  the  annuitants  receive 
from  £9  to  £10  each  per  annum.  Alexander  Chal- 
mers, Esq.,  of  Cluny,  in  1 834,  bequeathed  property 
which  will  amount  to  £40,000,  in  trust,  to  the  lord- 
lieutenant  and  member  for  the  county,  the  minister  and 
magistrates  of  Banff,  and  others,  for  the  erection  and 
endowment  of  an  hospital  and  dispensary,  to  be  called 
Chalmers'  Hospital,  for  the  county  of  Banff;  the  hos- 
pital to  be  erected  on  the  site  of  the  residence  of  the 
founder. 

Scarcely  any  vestiges  of  the  ancient  Carmelite  monas- 
tery are  remaining ;  some  arches,  apparently  parts  of 
cells,  are  still  to  be  traced  in  the  yard  of  the  inn  called 
the  Royal  Oak,  and  near  the  foundry  is  a  vaulted  cham- 
ber, now  occupied  by  the  boiler  of  the  steam-engine  be- 
longing to  that  establishment.  A  portion  of  the  build- 
ing occupied  by  Sir  George  Ogilvy,  afterwards  Lord 
Banff,  and  which  appears  to  have  been  regarded  as  a 
palace,  from  the  occasional  visits  to  it  by  the  Scottish 
kings,  was  destroyed,  in  1640,  by  General  Monroe, 
who,  having  marched  into  the  town,  encamped  in  the 
gardens  of  that  house,  which  he  totally  destroyed,  car- 
rying away  the  timber  and  iron-work,  and  leaving  only 
the  shattered  walls,  a  heap  of  ruins.  That  part  of  the 
town  which  is  called  the  Sea-town,  is  supposed  to  occupy 
the  lands  of  the  chapel  of  the  Holy  Rood  ;  and  another 
chapel,  dedicated  to  St.  Thomas,  is  thought  to  have 
stood  somewhere  between  the  site  of  the  parish  church 
and  St.  Andrew's  chapel.  The  Knights  Templars  an- 
ciently had  a  preceptory  in  the  town  ;  their  possessions 
were  erected  into  a  lordship,  in  favour  of  Sir  John 
Sandilands,  in  1563,  and  several  small  and  scattered 
portions  of  their  lands  appear  to  have  passed  into  bur- 
gage tenures.  The  old  castle  of  Inchdrewer,  erected 
about  the  time  of  James  IV.  or  V.,  is  still  so  entire  as 
to  be  habitable,  and  is  now  in  the  occupation  of  a  tenant ; 
it  is  chiefly  memorable  for  the  death  of  a  lord  of  Banff, 
who  was  burnt  in  it  in  1713,  under  circumstances  that 
have  never  been  fully  explained.  Adjoining  the  mauso- 
leum of  Lord  Fife,  is  an  ancient  monument,  on  which 
is  the  recumbent  figure  of  an  armed  warrior,  with  the 
inscription,  "  Hie  jacet  Johannes  Duff,  de  Maldavat,  et 
Baldavi ;  obiit,  2  Julii,  1404:"  this  monument,  with 
the  ashes  of  the  deceased,  was  brought  from  Cullen. 
James  Sharp,  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrew's,  who  was 
waylaid  and  assassinated,  was  born  at  Banff  Castle, 
in   1613. 

BANFFSHIRE,  a  maritime  county,  in  the  north-east 
part  of  Scotland,  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Moray 
Frith  ;  on  the  east  and  south-east,  by  Aberdeenshire ; 
and  on  the  west,  by  the  counties  of  Moray  and  Inver- 
ness. It  lies  between  57°  5'  and  57°  43'  (N.  lat.)  and 
2°  17'  and  3°  37'  (W.  long.),  and  is  about  fifty  miles  in 
length,  and  varying  from  twenty  miles  to  three  miles  in 
breadth  ;  it  comprises  an  area  of  about  647  square  miles, 
or  414,080  acres,  and  contains  11,149  inhabited  houses, 


B  A  N  F 


BANN 


and  a  population  of  49,679,  of  whom  23,249  are  males, 
and  26,430  females.  This  county,  which  includes  the 
districts  of  Boyne,  Enzie,  Strath- Doveran,  Strathaven, 
Balvenie,  and  part  of  Buchan,  was  a  sheriffdom  in  the 
reign  of  David  I.,  and,  previously  to  the  Reformation, 
was  included  in  the  diocese  of  Moray  ;  it  is  now  partly 
in  the  synod  of  Moray,  and  partly  in  that  of  Aberdeen, 
and  comprises  several  presbyteries,  and  twenty-four 
parishes.  It  contains  the  royal  burghs  of  Banff  and 
Cullen,  of  which  the  former  is  the  county  town,  and 
several  thriving  and  populous  villages,  whereof  the  chief 
are,  Keith,  Newmill,  Gardenstown,  Dufftown,  Buckie, 
Portsoy,  and  Macduff:  under  the  act  of  the  2nd  of 
William  IV.,  the  county  returns  one  member  to  the 
imperial   parliament. 

The  surface  is  beautifully  diversified  with  mountains 
and  vales,  and  the  scenery  enriched  with  woods  and 
plantations,  and  enlivened  with  rivers  and  lakes.  The 
principal  mountains  are,  the  Cairngorm,  which  has  an 
elevation  of  more  than  4000  feet  above  the  sea  ;  Ben- 
mackdhuie  :  Belrinnes,  rising  from  the  river  Spey  to  the 
height  of  2/47  feet ;  Knockhill,  near  the  north  termi- 
nation of  the  Grampian  range,  the  Buck  of  Cabrach,  and 
others,  about  2500  feet  high.  The  chief  vales  are, 
those  of  Strath-Doveran  and  Strathaven,  the  former 
branching  off  to  the  right,  and  the  latter  to  the  left, 
from  the  forest  of  Glenavon  ;  Glcn-Livet ;  and  Glen- 
Fiddich,  which  last  extends  to  the  strath  of  Balvenie. 
The  rivers  are,  the  Spey,  which  has  its  source  in  Loch 
Spey,  and,  after  a  long  course,  falls  into  the  Moray  Frith 
near  Fochabers  ;  the  Doveran,  which  rises  in  the  hills 
of  Cabrach  ;  the  Avon  ;  the  Livet ;  and  the  Isla  ;  with 
countless  smaller  streams,  which  turn  numerous  mills. 
The  salmon-fisheries  on  the  Spey  and  Doveran  are  ex- 
tensive, the  former  yielding  a  rental  of  £6000,  and  the 
latter  of  £2000  per  annum.  The  coast,  which  extends  for 
nearly  thirty  miles,  is  bold  and  rocky,  and,  in  some  parts, 
precipitous  ;   and  is  much  indented  with  small  bays. 

The  soil,  near  the  sea,  is  rich  ;  in  the  valleys,  luxu- 
riantly fertile  ;  and  in  the  mountainous  districts,  affords 
tolerable  pasturage ;  the  moors  abound  with  game. 
Nearly  one-half  of  the  land  is  under  cultivation  ;  the 
system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  highly  improved  state,  and 
much  waste  has  been  inclosed  and  rendered  profitable. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  county  is  £116,968. 
The  natural  woods  and  plantations  are  extensive  and 
well  managed,  and  there  are  numerous  oaks  and  firs  of 
extraordinary  dimensions  ;  the  chief  minerals  are  iron- 
stone and  lead-ore,  and  there  are  some  fine  quarries  of 
limestone,  freestone,  gneiss,  and  granite.  The  best 
seats  are,  Gordon  Castle,  Glenfiddich,  Duff  House,  Ro- 
thiemay,  Banff  Castle,  Balvenie  Castle,  Cullen  House, 
Birkenbog,  Forglen,  Troup,  Arndilly,  Baldorney,  Edin- 
garth,  and  Kinnairdy.  The  principal  manufacture  is 
that  of  linen  ;  there  are  several  tanneries,  some  distil- 
leries, and  other  works  in  connexion  with  the  shipping, 
which  is  confined  chiefly  to  the  ports  of  Banff,  Macduff, 
Portsoy,  and  Gardenstown.  The  herring-fishery  is  also 
very  extensive,  and  is  prosecuted  along  the  coasts  with 
great  industry  and  success.  Facility  of  intercourse  has 
been  greatly  promoted  by  many  excellent  roads,  con- 
structed by  commissioners  appointed  under  an  act  of 
parliament ;  and  the  bridges  over  the  different  streams 
are  kept  in  good  order.  There  are  numerous  cairns, 
tumuli,  ruins  of  ancient  castles,  and  other  monuments 
Vol.  I. — 105 


of  antiquity,  all  noticed  in  the  respective  articles  on  the 
localities  in  which  they  are  situated. 

BANKEND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Caerlave- 
iiocK,  county  of  Dumfries,  |  a  mile  (S.)  from  Caerla- 
verock ;  containing  189  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  the 
eastern  portion  of  the  parish,  and  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river  Locher,  which  separates  it  from  the  parish  of 
Ruthwell. 

BANKFOOT,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Auchter- 
gaven,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  76O  inhabitants. 
This  village,  which  takes  its  name  from  its  situation  at  the 
base  of  an  elevated  ridge,  on  the  road  from  Perth  to  Dun- 
keld,  is  of  very  recent  origin,  having  been  wholly  built  on 
lands  leased  for  that  purpose,  by  Mr.  Wylie.  The  houses 
are  neatly  built,  and  chief!}'  inhabited  by  persons  em- 
ployed in  weaving  for  the  manufacturers  of  the  neigh- 
bouring towns,  and  in  various  trades.  A  daily  post  has 
been  established,  which  forwards  letters  to  Perth  ;  and 
facility  of  intercourse  is  maintained  by  good  roads,  kept 
in  repair  by  statute  labour.  There  is  a  considerable  trade 
in  coal,  for  the  supply  of  the  parts  of  the  parish  adja- 
cent. A  subscription  library  was  opened  in  1822,  under 
the  direction  of  a  committee  of  subscribers  ;  the  collec- 
tion consists  of  about  300  volumes,  on  theological,  his- 
torical, and  literary  subjects.  There  are  places  of  wor- 
ship for  members  of  the  United  Secession  and  the  Relief 
Synod. 

BANKHEAD,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  district,  in  the 
parish  of  Midmar,  district  of  Kincardine  O'Neil, 
county  of  Aberdeen,  4  miles  from  Leggerdale.  It  is 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  road  from  Aberdeen  to  Tar- 
land,  and  two  miles  south  of  that  to  Alford  ;  the  soil  of 
the  district  is  generally  light,  and  far  from  being  pro- 
ductive. The  population  is  chiefly  engaged  in  agricul- 
ture ;  and  the  females  employ  themselves,  to  a  large 
extent,  in  stocking-weaving.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  synod  of  Aber- 
deen and  presbytery  of  Kincardine  O'Neil,  and  the 
election  of  the  minister  is  vested  in  the  communi- 
cants. The  church  is  a  plain  substantial  building, 
erected  in  1S32,  by  subscription  of  the  members  and 
others,  and  is  seated  for  300  persons  ;  it  stands  in  the 
north-western  part  of  the  parish  of  Midmar,  adjoining 
the  parishes  of  Kincardine  O'Neil  and  Cluny.  In  the 
vicinity  are  a  few  Druidical  remains  and  Pictish  en- 
campments, but  none  of  them  are  of  sufficient  import- 
ance to  require  a  particular  description. 

BANKHEAD,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Monikie, 
county  of  Forfar,  4  miles  (W.  by  N.)  from  Monikie  ; 
containing  56  inhabitants. 

BANKTON-PARK,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Ket- 
tle, district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife,  £  a  mile  (S.) 
from  Kettle;  containing  136  inhabitants.  It  is  plea- 
santly situated  on  the  road  from  Cupar  to  Leslie,  and 
consists  of  neat  houses  of  modern  erection. 

BANNOCKBURN,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in- 
cluding the  village  of  Bannockburn,  in  the  parish  of  St. 
Ninian's,  county  of  Stirling  ;  containing  3176  inha- 
bitants, of  whom  2206  are  in  the  village,  2  miles  (S.  S. 
E.)  from  Stirling,  on  the  road  to  Falkirk.  Most  of  the 
inhabitants  are  employed  in  manufacturing  tartans, 
shawls,  and  carpets,  and  here  are  very  extensive  eoal- 
works,  producing  a  material  of  the  best  quality,  which 
is  sent  in  large  quantities  to  most  of  the  surrounding 
districts  ;  there  is  also  a  tan-work  for  preparing  foreign 

P 


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B  A  R  R 


skins,  as  well  as  those  from  the  country  around,  A 
post-office  is  established  under  Stirling,  and  fairs  are 
held  in  June  and  October.  The  small  river  Bannock, 
running  on  the  western  border,  gives  name  to  this 
place,  which  is  celebrated  in  history  as  the  scene  of  the 
decisive  battle  between  Robert  Bruce  and  Edward 
II.,  when  the  Scots  obtained  a  signal  victory,  Edward 
and  the  English  being  completely  routed  ;  and  about  a 
mile  from  the  village,  on  the  I  lth  of  June,  1488,  was 
fought  the  field  of  Stirling,  or  battle  of  Sauchie,  between 
James  III.  and  the  confederate  lords,  wherein  that 
monarch  lost  the  field  and  his  life.  A  church,  contain- 
ing 900  sittings,  was  opened  in  October  1838;  there 
is  also  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  United 
Secession. 

BANTON,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  forming  part 
of  the  parish  of  Kilsyth,  in  the  county  of  Stirling  ; 
containing  964  inhabitants,  of  whom  130  are  in  the  vil- 
lage of  Banton,  3  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Kilsyth.  This 
district,  which  includes  the  village  of  Auchinmully, 
and  is  five  miles  long,  is  situated  in  the  east  barony 
of  the  parish,  and  is  inhabited  principally  by  colliers 
and  miners,  employed  at  the  neighbouring  works.  A 
church  has  been  erected,  with  accommodation  for  above 
400  persons,  by  subscription  and  a  grant  from  the 
General  Assembly's  Church  Extension  Committee ;  and 
a  school  and  master's  house,  erected  in  1771,  have  been 
rebuilt  on  an  improved  plan,  at  an  expense  of  £320, 
wholly  defrayed  by  voluntary  contributions.  There  is 
also  a  subscription  library,  opened  in  1835,  and  which 
contains  about  200  volumes. 

BARA,  Haddington. — See  Garvald. 

BARACHNIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Old 
Monkland,  forming  part  of  the  late  quoad  sacra  parish 
of  Crosshill,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark, 
3|  miles  (E.)  from  Glasgow ;  containing  235  inhabit- 
ants. This  place  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Glasgow 
to  Airdrie,  a  short  distance  from  Bailiestone  Toll,  and  on 
the  borders  of  Barony  parish.  In  the  vicinity  are  ex- 
tensive coal-works. 

BARBARAVILLE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kil- 
mtjir  Easter,  county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty;  con- 
taining  173  inhabitants. 

BARBASWALLS,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Ruth- 
ven,  county  of  Forfar  ;  containing  36  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  on  the  borders  of  Airlie  parish,  a  little  to 
the  south  of  the  road  between  Blairgowrie  and  Kirrie- 
muir;  and  the  river  Isla  flows  eastward  of  the  hamlet. 

BARHILL,  a  small  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Col- 
monell,  district  of  Carrick,  county  of  Ayr,  12  miles 
(S.  S.  E.)  from  Girvan.  This  place,  which  is  of  very 
recent  origin,  is  situated  on  the  river  Dhuisk,  and  on 
the  road  from  Girvan  to  Newton-Stewart ;  cattle-markets 
are  held  on  the  fourth  Friday  in  April,  September,  and 
October  (O.  S.),  and  are  attended  by  numerous  dealers 
from  the  adjoining  districts. 

BARJARG,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Keir,  county 
of  Dumfries  ;  containing  58  inhabitants.  It  lies  near 
the  river  Nith,  on  the  east  side  of  the  parish,  about  two 
miles  and  a  half  south  from  the  village  church,  and  on 
the  road  between  Penport  and  Dumfries. 

BARLEYSIDE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Falkirk, 
county  of  Stirling,  3  miles  (S.  by  W.)  from  Falkirk  ; 
containing    92    inhabitants.       It    is   situated  near   the 
western  boundary  of  the  parish  of  Polmont. 
106 


BARN-YARDS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kilcon- 
qtjhar,  district  of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of  Fife  ;  con- 
taining 232  inhabitants.  It  adjoins  the  village  of  Kil- 
conquhar,  which  lies  to  the  north  of  Elie,  and  of  which, 
although  it  retains  a  separate  name,  it  may  now  be  said 
to  form  a  part. 

BARNH1LL,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Monifieth, 
county  of  Forfar;  containing  41  inhabitants.  It  lies 
a  little  south  of  the  high  road  between  Dundee  and 
Arbroath. 

BARNHILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Blantyre, 
Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  \  a  mile  (N.) 
from  Blantyre  ;  containing  165  inhabitants.  It  is  near 
the  eastern  boundary  of  Cambuslang  parish. 

BARN  WEILL,  county  of  Ayr. — See  Craigie. 

BARONY,  county  of  Lanark.— See  Glasgow. 

BARR,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Carrick,  county 
of  Ayr,  S  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from  Girvan  ;  containing  959 
inhabitants,  of  whom  about  230  are  in  the  village.  This 
place  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name  from  the 
almost  inaccessible  site  of  the  ancient  village,  surrounded 
on  all  sides  by  rugged  hills  of  precipitous  elevation,  and 
only  to  be  approached  by  a  narrow  wild  glen,  frequently 
impassable  from  the  swelling  of  a  small  stream  which 
intersects  it,  and  which,  in  winter,  attains  the  violence 
of  a  torrent.  The  parish,  which  formed  a  natural 
barrier  between  the  counties  of  Ayr  and  Galloway,  was 
included  in  the  parishes  of  Girvan  and  Dailly  till  the 
year  1653,  when  it  was  erected  into  a  parish  of  itself; 
it  comprises  nearly  70,000  acres,  of  which  only  1200 
are  arable,  and  not  more  than  1000  capable  of  being 
rendered  profitable.  The  surface  is  mostly  an  extensive 
level,  with  various  ridges  of  different  elevation,  two  of 
which  rise  from  the  banks  of  the  river  Stinchar,  to  the 
height  of  nearly  1200  feet ;  and  a  third,  in  a  direction 
nearly  parallel  to  these,  on  the  south-east,  is  about  1400 
feet  above  the  sea.  Another  range,  forming  part  of 
that  chain  of  mountainous  heights  stretching  from  Ayr- 
shire into  Galloway,  has  an  elevation  of  nearly  2700 
feet.  The  chief  rivers  are,  the  Stinchar,  which  has  its 
source  in  this  parish,  and,  taking  a  south-westerly 
course,  falls  into  the  sea  at  Ballantrae ;  and  the  Min- 
noch,  which,  rising  in  the  highest  ridge  of  hills,  flows 
southward  through  the  lands,  and  falls  into  the  river 
Cree,  which  separates  this  parish  from  the  county  of 
Galloway.  The.  Stinchar,  in  its  course  of  nearly  fifteen 
miles  through  the  parish,  forms  a  beautiful  cascade  of 
about  thirty  feet ;  and  most  of  the  smaller  burns  with 
which  the  parish  abounds,  in  their  several  courses,  fall 
from  heights,  with  various  degrees  of  beauty.  There 
are  numerous  lakes  of  different  extent,  varying  in-  depth 
from  six  to  fifteen  feet,  all  of  which  afford  trout  of  a 
dark  colour,  and  also  yellow  trout ;  the  scenery  is  dreary, 
from  the  want  of  wood,  of  which  there  is  scarcely  any  in 
the  parish. 

The  soil,  in  the  lower  lands,  is  of  very  fair  quality, 
and  in  the  high  lands  principally  moss  ;  the  chief  crops 
are,  grain  of  all  kinds,  and  potatoes.  Surface-draining 
has  been  extensively  practised,  and  the  grounds  are 
partially  inclosed,  but  improvement  in  the  system  of 
husbandry,  from  the  want  of  good  roads  and  facilities 
of  drawing  lime,  is  greatly  retarded.  Attention  is  paid 
to  the  management  of  the  dairy,  and  a  moderate  number 
of  milch  cows,  mostly  of  the  Ayrshire  breed,  have  been 
introduced ;  but  the  main  dependence  of  the  farmer  is 


B  A  R  It 


BARK 


on  the  rearing  of  cattle  and  sheep,  for  which  the  hills 
provide  tolerable  pasturage.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £7578.  The  few  trees  indigenous  to 
the  soil,  are  ash  and  alder  ;  and  the  plantations,  which 
are  on  a  very  limited  scale,  are  larch,  interspersed  with 
oak  and  ash,  which  seem  to  thrive  well.  The  substrata 
are  chiefly  conglomerate  rock,  which  appears  in  very 
irregular  masses,  and  limestone  of  good  quality,  which 
is  slightly  wrought ;  in  that  portion  of  it  that  lies 
near  the  bed  of  the  river,  some  fine  specimens  of  fossil 
shells  are  found.  Slate-quarries  have  been  also  opened, 
but  have  not  been  wrought  to  any  extent.  The  village, 
which  is  neatly  built,  has  a  post-office,  established  under 
Girvan  ;  and  fairs  are  held  annually,  but  very  little 
business  is  transacted,  and,  from  the  want  of  good 
roads,  little  facility  of  intercourse  is  afforded  with  the 
surrounding  district.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  patronage 
of  the  Crown;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £231.  3.  1., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £1S  per  annum. 
The  church,  an  ancient  edifice,  is  in  good  repair,  and 
bad  a  gallery  added  in  1S34;  it  is  adapted  for  a  con- 
gregation of  410  persons.  A  place  of  worship  has  been 
erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  well  conducted  ;  the  master's  salary  is 
£34.  4.  4|.,  with  £18  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  A 
parochial  library  has  been  established,  which  has  a  col- 
lection of  nearly  200  volumes.  There  are  some  remains 
of  a  chapel  called  Kirk  Dominaj,  and  on  the  rising- 
ground  near  its  site,  is  a  well,  to  which  is  an  approach 
through  an  ancient  and  well-built  archway.  This  chapel 
was  in  tolerable  preservation  till  the  year  1653,  when 
the  roof  was  taken  off,  and  placed  on  the  parish  church. 
Viscount  Stair,  well  known  as  ambassador  of  George 
II.,  at  the  court  of  France,  in  1720,  was  born  in  the 
parish. 

BAR.RA,  a  parish  and  island,  in  the  county  of  In- 
verness ;  including  the  islands  of  Bernera,  Fladda, 
Fuday,  Helesay,  Mingala,  Pabba,  Sandra,  and  Watersay ; 
and  containing  2363  inhabitants,  of  whom  1977  are  in 
the  island  of  Barra.  The  word  Barra  is  supposed  by 
some  to  be  formed  of  Bar,  a  point  or  top,  and  Ay  or  i",  an 
island,  and  to  have  been  applied  to  this  place  in  refer- 
ence to  its  position  in  the  great  group  to  which  it  be- 
longs, it  being  the  most  southerly  or  head  of  the  larger 
islands  among  the  Hebrides.  But  its  etymology  is  more 
generally  traced  to  St.  Barr,  the  tutelary  saint  to  whom 
the  principal  place  of  worship,  called  Killbar,  was  dedi- 
cated, and  whose  reputation  was  here  so  great,  that  his 
anniversary  has  been  celebrated  for  ages,  on  the  25th  of 
September,  and  is  still  regularly  observed  with  morning 
ceremonies  at  the  chapel,  and  afternoon  festivities  at 
Killbar,  by  the  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  Roman 
Catholics.  The  island  of  Barra,  and  the  islands  surround- 
ing it,  have  been  from  time  immemorial  the  property  of 
the  Macneils,  who  are  said  to  have  been  in  possession  of 
them  before  the  Danish  invasion,  and  to  have  been  the 
first  of  that  name  who  came  from  Ireland.  This  family, 
by  their  great  power,  and  particularly  their  skill  in 
maritime  affairs,  gave  great  annoyance  to  all  their  neigh- 
bours, carrying  their  depredations  into  every  part  of  the 
Western  Islands  ;  and  one  of  them,  called  Resary  an 
Tartair,  or  "  the  noisy  or  troublesome  Roderick,"  sig- 
nalized himself  especially  by  his  piracies,  but  was  at 
length  captured  for  an  attack  on  one  of  Queen  Eliza- 
107 


beth's  ships  ;  great  skill  and  ingenuity,  in  consequence 
of  a  reward  offered,  having  been  employed  to  effect  his 
apprehension.  The  seat  of  the  family  was  Kismull 
Castle,  stili  in  good  preservation,  situated  in  the  centre 
of  a  bay,  and  on  a  small  rock  which  is  covered  at  high 
water;  the  structure  is  of  irregular  figure,  about  sixty 
feet  high,  with  a  square  tower  at  one  corner,  the  whole 
strongly  built,  and  surrounded  by  spots  for  the  anchor- 
age of  small  vessels.  It  was  the  residence  of  the  lairds 
of  Barra  till  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  about 
which  time  it  ceased  to  be  inhabited. 

The  parish  consists  of  more  than  twenty  islands, 
about  half  of  them  uninhabited,  and  serving  only  as 
grazing  stations,  and  was  disjoined  from  that  of  South 
Uist  in  1733.  It  is  situated  at  the  south-western  ex- 
tremity of  the  Hebrides,  and  measures  in  length,  from 
Scirrival,  the  most  northerly  point  of  the  main  island, 
to  Bernera,  the  most  southerly  island,  about  twenty- 
eight  miles,  including  the  several  intervening  channels  ; 
and  comprises  about  22,000  acres,  of  which  3922  are 
under  cultivation,  1540  sandy  waste,  16,139  hill  pasture, 
and  the  remainder  moss.  The  currents  run  with  great 
rapidity  and  violence  through  the  channels,  of  which, 
that  on  the  north  is  six  miles  across,  separating  Barra 
from  South  Uist.  On  the  east,  are  the  islands  of  Canna 
and  Rum,  distant  twenty-six  miles;  those  of  Coll  and 
Tiree,  on  the  south,  are  thirty  miles  off,  and  on  the  west 
is  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  which,  at  the  blowing  of  the  south- 
west wind,  rolls  its  waves  with  such  impetuosity  and 
fury,  that  they  not  only  drive  large  quantities  of  sand 
over  the  islands,  but  render  intercourse  between  them 
quite  impossible.  The  shore  is  indented  with  nume- 
rous fissures  and  creeks,  and  pierced  with  many  arms 
of  the  sea,  and  on  the  wrest,  with  the  exception  of 
two  or  three  sandy  inlets  and  bays,  is  thickly  set  with 
rocks,  a  huge  barrier  of  which,  broken  in  several  parts 
into  frightful  chasms  by  the  constant  action  of  the  sea, 
rises  majestically  against  its  tremendous  waves,  and 
supplies  a  powerful  rampart  to  check  its  fury.  On  the 
east,  the  coast  is  in  general  rocky,  with  some  inter- 
vening portions  of  heath,  moss,  and  sand ;  and  in  this 
part  are  the  principal  bays,  which  form  excellent  and 
safe  harbours,  and  among  which  are  those  of  Bayhierava, 
Uilevay,  Castlebay,  Watersaybay,  Fladda  Sound,  and 
Ottirvore.  The  chief  headland  is  Barra  Head,  on  the 
island  of  Bernera,  where  a  very  superior  lighthouse  has 
lately  been  erected.  This  island,  and  the  contiguous  one 
of  Mingala,  are  particularly  distinguished  for  the  height 
of  their  rocks,  and  for  their  grand  and  romantic  scenery, 
heightened  in  its  effect  by  the  numberless  sea-fowl  that 
frequent  them  throughout  the  summer.  Barra,  the 
largest  island,  is  about  twelve  miles  long,  and  from  three 
to  six  miles  broad,  and  is  broken,  especially  on  the 
eastern  side,  by  many  bays  and  arms  of  the  sea.  It  has 
a  rocky  barren  aspect  at  a  distance,  but,  upon  a  nearer 
approach,  its  appearance  is  more  interesting,  and  its 
lower  grounds,  containing  some  rich  meadows  and  fer- 
tile valleys,  contrast  well  with  its  lofty  hills,  covered 
to  the  summits  with  verdant  pasture.  There  are  many 
springs  of  good  fresh  water,  and  four  fresh-water  lakes, 
abounding  in  black  trout  and  eels,  and  varying  in  length 
from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile. 

The  soil  comprises  light  black,  and  sandy  earth, 
moss,  and  meadow ;  and  the  crops,  consisting  of  barley, 
oats,  and  potatoes,  grown  merely  for  home  consumption, 

P2 


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B  A  H  R 


ripen  very  early  on  the  sandy  soils,  of  which  much 
exists  in  the  parish  :  agriculture  here  takes  its  prevail- 
ing character  from  that  of  the  population,  and  is  un- 
formed and  rugged,  and  the  district  is  more  suited  to 
grazing  than  tillage.  The  lands  are  let  principally  to 
small  tenants  ;  the  habitations,  in  general,  are  of  the 
very  lowest  description,  as  well  as  the  resources,  and 
manner  of  life  of  the  tenants.  The  cattle  are  of  a  good 
quality,  and  a  new  and  improved  breed  of  sheep  has 
been  recently  introduced ;  the  horses  are  small,  but 
hardy  and  well  shaped,  and  are  kept  in  great  numbers, 
being  found  useful  for  transporting  sea-weed  for  manure, 
and  for  the  preparation  of  kelp.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £2470.  The  rocks  consist  chiefly 
of  coarse  granite  ;  but  in  the  island  of  Bernera,  a  quarry 
of  this  stone,  of  a  very  superior  kind,  has  been  dis- 
covered, of  which  the  lighthouse  was  built.  The  only 
mansion  is  the  house  of  Barra,  at  Eoligary,  which  is  a 
commodious  residence,  well  sheltered,  and  surrounded 
by  good  fields.  It  was  built  by  the  late  proprietor,  who 
transplanted  some  trees,  of  which  the  parish  is  remark- 
ably bare,  to  the  grounds  of  his  mansion  ;  but,  though 
they  had  thriven  tolerably  well  in  their  former  situation, 
they  soon  pined  away  after  their  removal.  A  few  of  the 
inhabitants  are  engaged  in  fishing,  and  four  vessels  used 
for  this  purpose  belong  to  the  place ;  but  the  poverty 
of  the  people  operates  not  only  to  straiten  their  agricul- 
tural efforts,  and  to  keep  the  capabilities  of  the  soil,  to 
a  great  extent,  in  abeyance,  but  also  to  confine  their 
fishing  within  very  narrow  limits,  although  Barra  is 
one  of  the  best  stations  on  the  west  coast.  Besides 
lobsters,  crabs,  whelks,  limpets,  mussels,  and  cockles, 
the  quantity  of  which  last  is  very  great,  and  often  sup- 
plies a  principal  article  of  food,  the  neighbouring  seas 
abound  with  ling,  cod,  tusk,  hake,  turbot,  and  flounders  ; 
and  immense  shoals  of  herrings  also  come  up,  which 
the  inhabitants  are  unable  to  take  for  want  of  suitable 
tackle.  About  twenty  or  thirty  boats  are  sometimes 
employed,  with  five  men  in  each,  and  if  successful,  and 
the  weather  permits,  they  carry  the  ling  and  cod  to 
Glasgow  and  Greenock  in  their  own  boats.  Many  cear- 
bans,  or  sail-fish,  were  formerly  taken  by  means  of  the 
harpoon,  and  large  quantities  of  oil  extracted,  but  this 
branch  has  now  failed,  through  the  inability  of  the 
fishermen  to  provide  the  necessary  tackle. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Uist  and  synod  of 
Glenelg,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £165.  10.  5.,  of  which  a  portion  is  received 
from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued 
at  £17.  10.  per  annum.  The  church  is  a  plain  struc- 
ture, built  a  few  years  since,  and  conveniently  situated 
in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  about  six  miles  from  each 
extremity  of  the  main  island.  There  is  a  Roman 
Catholic  chapel.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruc- 
tion in  English  and  writing,  though  the  master  is  quali- 
fied to  teach  the  classics,  book-keeping,  and  geography  ; 
he  has  a  salary  of  £26  :  the  school  has  been  only  lately 
opened,  and  education  is  at  present  quite  in  its  infancy, 
the  inhabitants  being  mostly  unable  to  read  or  write. 
The  poor  enjoy  the  benefit  of  a  bequest  of  £400,  left  by 
two  persons,  natives  of  the  parish.  At  Killbar,  are  se- 
veral ruins  of  ancient  chapels  dedicated  to  St.  Barr, 
some  of  which  have  an  altar  of  rough  stones  at  one 
end,  and  the  pedestal  of  a  cross  at  a  short  distance  :  a 
wooden  figure  of  the  saint  was  formerly  fixed  up  for  the 
108 


adoration  of  the  people,  and  was  dressed  in  superior 
attire,  on  the  celebration  of  the  anniversary.  Watch- 
towers  are  seen  in  every  direction  ;  and  each  lake  has 
a  "dun,"  supposed  to  be  of  Scandinavian  origin,  as  well 
as  those  circles  usually  called  Druidical  remains.  A 
few  years  since,  a  gold  medal  was  found,  in  digging  the 
clergyman's  garden,  about  the  size  of  a  half-crown  piece, 
cast  for  the  coronation  of  Augustus  II.,  king  of  Poland, 
and  which  is  said  to  have  belonged  to  some  passenger 
on  board  of  a  Dutch  ship  wrecked  here  in  the  early  part 
of  the  last  century. 

BARREL-OF-BUTTER,  an  islet,  in  the  parish  of 
Orphir,  county  of  Orkney.  It  is  one  of  the  smallest 
of  the  Orkneys,  and  is  situated  to  the  south  of  the 
island  of  Pomona,  in  Scalpa  Flow,  a  large  expanse  of 
water  resembling  a  small  Mediterranean  Sea.  Here  was 
formerly  a  seal-fishery,  for  which  the  neighbouring 
farmer  paid  the  proprietor  a  barrel  of  oil  yearly,  until 
the  frequency  of  shipping  scared  the  animals  from  the 
isle,  when  the  proprietor,  determined  not  to  lose  his 
rent,  converted  the  tack -duty  into  a  barrel  of  butter, 
which  is  still  paid  by  the  tenant ;  and  hence  the  isle 
derives  its  present  name,  the  ancient  one  being  Carlin- 
Skerry. 

BARRHEAD,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  includ- 
ing the  villages  of  Cross- Arthurlee,  Grahamstown,  New- 
ton Ralston,  and  Barrhead,  in  the  parish  of  Neilston, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  4  miles  (S.  by  E.) 
from  Paisley  ;  the  whole  containing  5337  inhabitants. 
This  place  is  situated  on  the  stream  of  the  Levern,  on 
which  are  a  number  of  fine  waterfalls  that  have  con- 
tributed much  to  the  manufactures  of  the  district, 
consisting  of  cotton  spinning  and  weaving,  and  printing, 
bleaching,  and  dyeing,  all  extensively  carried  on,  prin- 
cipally for  the  Glasgow  and  Paisley  markets.  Coal  is 
abundant,  and  three  mines  are  at  present  in  operation. 
A  fair  is  held,  chiefly  for  pleasure,  on  the  last  Friday  in 
June,  when  a  horse-race  also  takes  place.  The  village, 
situated  on  the  road  from  Glasgow  to  Irvine,  is  of  con- 
siderable size,  and,  for  the  most  part,  inhabited  by 
persons  engaged  in  the  various  works ;  it  has  a  post- 
office,  with  a  daily  delivery.  The  parish  is  in  the  pres- 
bytery of  Paisley  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  :  the 
church,  a  neat  structure,  was  built  by  subscription,  in 
1839  ;  the  minister  is  elected  by  the  male  communicants. 
There  is  a  good  school,  of  which  the  teacher  has  a  room 
rent-free,  and  affords  instruction  to  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  the  children  of  the  place  ;  also  a  mechanics'  sub- 
scription library. 

BARRIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar,  in- 
cluding the  late  quoad  sacra  district  of  Carnoustie,  and 
containing  2124  inhabitants,  of  whom  217  are  in  the 
village,  9  miles  (E.  N.  E.)  from  Dundee.  This  parish  is 
situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  county,  on  the 
shore  of  the  German  Ocean,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Frith  of  Tay,  measuring  about  four  miles  from  north  to 
south,  and  above  three  from  east  to  west.  In  the  latter 
direction  it  is  intersected,  throughout  its  whole  extent, 
by  a  high  verdant  bank,  supposed  to  have  once  formed 
a  steep  shore  of  the  ocean,  and  separating  the  locality 
into  two  grand  divisions  totally  dissimilar  in  character. 
That  on  the  north  is  of  a  good  soil,  and  elevated  about 
fifty  feet  above  the  southern  portion,  from  which  it  has 
the  appearance  of  an  extensive  and  regularly  con- 
structed terrace  ;   while  the  lower  division  is  sandy  and 


B  A  R  V 


B  A  R  V 


sterile,  affording  in  general  but  a  scanty  pasture  for  a 
few  sheep  and  cattle,  with  small  patches  of  arable  land, 
producing,  in  moist  seasons,  moderate  crops  of  grain. 
The  whole  comprises  about  4000  acres,  half  being  in 
the  sandy,  and  half  in  the  cultivated,  portion.  The  soil 
in  the  upper  part  has  the  several  varieties  of  light 
loam,  good  gravel,  and  a  deep  black  earth  ;  and,  under 
the  skilful  application  of  the  most  approved  usages  of 
husbandry,  crops  are  obtained  of  wheat,  barley,  oats, 
peas,  turnips,  flax,  clover,  and  potatoes,  nearly  equal 
to  those  grown  in  more  favoured  districts.  Of  the  part 
never  yet  cultivated,  covering  nearly  2000  acres,  very 
little  is  serviceable  on  account  of  the  light  and  sandy 
nature  of  the  soil,  except  for  occasional  pastures.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4052.  The 
larger  part  of  the  population,  both  male  and  female,  are 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  brown  and  white  linen, 
for  the  Dundee  and  Arbroath  houses ;  a  vitriol-work, 
employing  four  or  five  hands,  was  erected  a  few  years 
since,  and  there  are  five  stations  for  the  fishing  of 
salmon,  belonging  to  three  different  proprietors.  A 
turnpike-road  from  Dundee  to  Aberdeen,  and  the  rail- 
road between  the  former  place  and  Arbroath,  pass 
through  the  parish  ;  and  to  the  two  latter  towns,  the 
produce  is  usually  sent  for  sale.  The  parish  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Arbroath  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns, 
and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £143.  12.  11.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of 
five  acres,  valued  at  £5.  10.  per  annum.  The  church, 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  is  a  plain  structure, 
altered  and  enlarged  in  the  year  ISIS.  A  place  of 
worship  has  been  erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free 
Church.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the 
usual  branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £29.  18.  9., 
with  £30  fees.  Till  lately  there  were  tumuli  on  the 
eastern  limit  of  the  parish  ;  and  in  the  same  vicinity, 
near  Carnoustie,  were  the  vestiges  of  a  camp,  where,  it  is 
said,  the  Danes  were  defeated  under  Camus,  by  the 
Scots  headed  by  Malcolm  II. 

BARVAS,  a  parish,  in  the  island  of  Lewis,  county 
of  Ross,  and  Cromarty,  10  miles  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from 
Stornoway ;  containing,  with  the  late  quoad  sacra  dis- 
trict of  Cross,  3S50  inhabitants.  The  name  of  this 
place,  like  that  of  many  others  in  the  neighbourhood,  is 
supposed  to  be  of  Norwegian  derivation;  but  its  signifi- 
cation is  altogether  unknown.  From  the  memorials  which 
still  remain,  the  Danes  appear  to  have  had  some  con- 
nexion with  the  district  :  a  fort,  now  in  ruins,  evidently 
of  Danish  construction,  stands  on  the  border  of  a  loch 
south  of  Bragar,  and  three  buildings  of  the  same  de- 
scription are  to  be  seen  between  Shadir  and  Borve,  each 
of  them,  by  its  peculiar  form,  locality,  and  appendages, 
indicating  the  scene  of  the  military  operations  of  that 
people.  On  a  plain  of  moss  between  Barvas  and  Shadir, 
stands  an  immense  stone,  eighteen  feet  high,  and 
almost  as  much  in  girth,  supposed  to  have  been  raised 
as  a  triumphal  memorial  of  the  slaughter  of  some 
cruel  and  reckless  tyrant  of  the  Danish  nation ;  and 
the  ruins  of  several  old  chapels  and  burying-grounds  still 
remain,  showing  the  subsequent  occupation  of  the  soil 
by  religious  teachers.  These  chapels  were  dedicated 
to  St.  Bridget  in  Borve,  St.  Peter  in  Lower  Shadir,  St, 
Mary  in  Barvas,  and  St.  John  in  Bragar. 

The    parish,    which    is    remotely    situated,     in     the 
northern    extremity   of  the   island  of  Lewis,  is  about 
109 


twenty-two  miles  long,  and  seven  broad,  and  contains 
16,103  acres,  of  which  number  1468  arc  in  tillage,  4S9 
the  best  kind  of  pasture,  and  14,146  pasture  of  an  inferior 
kind;  it  is  bounded  on  the  north-west  by  the  Atlantic 
Ocean.  The  coast,  which  comprises  a  length  of  about 
fourteen  miles,  is  rugged,  and  in  many  parts  bold  and 
rocky,  and  is  beaten  by  a  violent  surf  when  the  wind 
blows  from  the  west  or  north-west.  The  surface  of  the 
ground  in  the  interior  is  diversified  by  gentle  eleva- 
tions, except  in  one  or  two  instances,  where  it  is  broken 
by  a  deep  glen  traversed  by  rivulets,  or  occupied  by  a 
sweeping  moor  covered  with  red  mountain  deer.  There 
are  five  rivers,  the  Glen,  Borve,  Shadir,  Arnal,  and 
Torra,  which  generally  rise  from  springs  or  lochs,  six 
or  seven  miles  up  the  country,  and  empty  them- 
selves into  the  ocean.  The  climate  is  surcharged  with 
vapour  and  fog,  and  subject  to  violent  storms  and  rains  ; 
the  striking  phenomenon  of  the  Aurora  Borealis  is  fre- 
quently seen,  in  all  its  splendour  and  majesty.  The 
soil  of  the  cultivated  land,  which  chiefly  lies  along  the 
sea-shore,  is  black  earth,  often  largely  mixed  with 
gravel  or  sand,  but,  as  the  main  part  of  the  parish  is 
moor,  the  soil  is  mostly  mossy.  The  arable  portion  is 
overspread  with  quantities  of  stones,  which,  together 
with  exposure  to  winds  from  the  sea,  without  hill  or 
mountain  to  protect  behind,  supply  formidable  impedi- 
ments to  the  labour  of  the  farmer,  and  sometimes  de- 
stroy his  crops  altogether.  The  rental  is  small ;  no 
produce  is  exported,  the  whole  being  used  in  home 
consumption,  and  but  few  improvements  have  been 
made  in  agriculture,  chiefly  from  the  shortness  of  the 
leases,  and  the  poverty  of  the  people,  who,  in  seasons 
of  scarcity,  are  compelled  to  live  upon  whelks,  limpets, 
and  crabs,  the  only  shell-fish  to  be  found.  About 
2500  head  of  black-cattle  are  reared,  which  are  fed  in 
winter  chiefly  on  sea-weed  ;  and  the  sheep  amount  to 
upwards  of  7000,  and  are  all  of  small  stature,  as  are 
the  horses,  which,  however,  are  compact,  active,  and 
mettlesome,  and  well  suited  to  their  ordinary  work  of 
carrying  the  sea-weed  in  double-baskets,  over  difficult 
and  rocky  grounds.  The  subsoil  is  a  stiff  hard  clay, 
which,  in  some  parts,  is  covered  with  large  banks  of 
sand,  twenty  feet  high,  driven  inward  from  the  shore 
by  the  continued  action  of  westerly  winds.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is   £1942. 

The  inhabitants  live  in  numerous  villages  on  the 
coast,  almost  entirely  in  an  insulated  state,  having  very 
little  communication  with  others  ;  there  are  two  roads, 
one  running  along  the  coast,  and  another  to  Storno- 
way, the  only  mart  in  the  island.  The  parish  contains 
four  small  bays,  into  which  boats  sometimes  enter; 
but  the  violence  of  the  wind  prevents  the  anchorage 
of  any  vessel.  Salmon-fishing  has  been  carried  on  for 
some  years,  with  considerable  success,  near  the  mouths 
of  the  rivers ;  but  the  nature  of  the  coast  rendering 
other  fishing  impracticable,  the  people  are  generally 
little  inclined  to  make  the  employment  a  steady  pursuit. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery 
of  Lewis  and  synod  of  Glenelg  ;  the  minister  has  a 
manse,  a  glebe  worth  about  £20  per  annum,  and  a  sti- 
pend of  £158.  6.  8.,  partly  paid  from  the  exchequer  ;  the 
patronage  belongs  to  the  Crown.  The  church,  built 
nearly  sixty  years  since,  is  a  long  narrow  building, 
and  contains  300  sittings,  all  free.  There  is  a  paro- 
chial school,  in  which   the    classics    and   the    common 


BATH 


BATH 


branches  of  education  are  taught,  and  the  master  of 
which  has  a  salary  of  £2S  ;  and  two  other  schools  are 
supported  by  the  Edinburgh  Gaelic  School  Society. 
The  pai-ish  contains  several  chalybeate  springs,  but  none 
of  any  note. 

BASS,  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  North  Berwick, 
county  of  Haddington.  It  is  situated  in  the  Frith 
of  Forth,  above  a  mile  distant  from  the  south  shore, 
and  is  of  stupendous  height,  inaccessible  on  all  sides, 
except  by  one  narrow  passage.  On  the  summit  is 
a  spring,  sufficient  to  provide  water  for  the  garrison 
of  a  small  castle ;  there  is  also  pasturage  for  a  few 
sheep,  and  a  warren.  This  island  was  an  ancient  pos- 
session of  the  family  of  Lawder,  and  was  purchased,  in 
1671,  by  Charles  II.,  during  whose  reign,  and  that  of 
James  II.,  it  was  made  a  state  prison,  where  the  Came- 
ronians,  or  Western  people,  were  confined  for  being  in 
arms  against  the  sovereign.  A  cavern  runs  through 
the  rock  from  north-west  to  south-east,  in  the  centre  of 
which  is  a  deep  pool  of  water.  St.  Baldred,  the  apostle 
of  East  Lothian,  in  the  sixth  century,  is  generally  sup- 
posed to  have  made  the  isle  his  place  of  seclusion. — See 
Berwick,  North. 

BATHAN'S,  ABBEY  ST.,  a  parish,  in  the  county 
of  Berwick,  7  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Dunse ;  contain- 
ing 140  inhabitants.  The  name  of  this  place  has  been 
successively  written  St.  Boythan's,  Bothan's,  and  Ba- 
than's, which  last  form  it  has  preserved  since  the 
earlier  part  of  the  last  century.  The  word  Abbey,  it  is 
supposed,  was  prefixed  to  distinguish  it  from  the  parish 
of  Gilford  or  Yester,  in  East  Lothian,  which  was  also 
called  St.  Bothan's,  but  had  no  convent ;  the  name 
Bathan  was  derived  from  the  patron  saint,  who  laboured 
here  in  the  early  part  of  the  7th  century,  and  to  whom 
the  first  church  was  dedicated.  Near  this  church,  which 
was  destroyed  more  than  once  by  fire,  during  the  in- 
cursions of  the  Banes,  a  convent  of  Cistercian  nuns  was 
founded  between  the  years  1184  and  1200,  with  the 
title  of  priory,  by  Ada,  daughter  to  King  William  the 
Lion,  and  wife  to  Patrick,  Earl  of  Dunbar.  This  in- 
stitution, by  the  liberal  benefactions  of  the  foundress 
and  her  husband,  and  various  other  persons,  acquired 
considerable  estates,  in  addition  to  the  patronage  of  the 
church,  by  which  the  nuns  were  enabled,  through  the  ap- 
pointment of  a  vicar,  to  appropriate  to  themselves  the 
revenues  of  the  living.  A  chapel  was  also  founded  in 
the  parish,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  nunnery, 
on  the  same  side  of  the  river  Whiteadder,  the  founda- 
tions of  which  lately  existed.  At  Strafontane,  too, 
which  is  now  part  of  the  parish,  but  was  anciently 
distinct,  an  hospital  was  founded  in  the  reign  of 
David  I.,  which,  at  one  time,  was  dependent  on  the 
abbey  of  Alnwick,  but  was  transferred,  in  1437,  by  the 
abbot  of  that  place,  to  the  monastery  of  Dryburgh,  and 
came  afterwards  into  the  possession  of  the  collegiate 
church  of  Dunglass,  and  was  ultimately  converted  into  a 
church. 

The  mean  length  of  the  parish,  from  east  to  west,  is 
about  3^  miles,  and  its  breadth  2§ ;  it  contains  about 
5000  acres,  of  which  2600  are  hilly  pasture  never  culti- 
vated, 100  wood,  and  2300  arable.  It  is  situated  among 
the  Lammerrnoor  hills,  and  the  surface  consequently 
consists  of  hills  and  slopes,  the  former  of  which  are,  for 
the  most  part,  covered  with  heath,  and  rise  to  various 
elevations,  of  between  300  and  400  feet  above  the  in- 
110 


tervening  vales,  and  then  spread  out  into  extensive  flats. 
The  level  grounds  on  the  banks  of  the  streams  which 
receive  the  drainage  of  the  hills,  are  in  general  fertile, 
as  well  as  many  of  the  slopes,  but  the  upper  lands  are 
altogether  barren.  The  Whiteadder  is  the  only  river; 
after  a  course  of  about  12  miles,  in  which  it  is  joined  by 
the  Dye  and  many  smaller  streams,  it  assumes,  in  its  pas- 
sage through  the  parish,  a  beautiful  meandering  form, 
and  receives,  besides  many  rivulets,  the  tributaries  of  the 
Monj'nut  and  the  Ware,  which  extend  its  width  to 
about  eighty  feet.  A  bridge  constructed  of  wood,  and 
raised  upon  stone  piers,  has  very  recently  been  erected 
across  the  river,  on  the  tension-bar  principle,  and  is 
much  and  deservedly  admired  for  its  simplicity  and 
elegance.  The  soil  is  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  any 
part  of  the  Lammerrnoor,  but  is  in  some  parts  of 
meagre  impoverished  quality,  and  much  better  suited  to 
the  pasturage  of  sheep  and  cattle  than  the  growth  of 
corn ;  the  produce  principally  comprises  oats,  barley, 
potatoes,  and  turnips.  The  sheep  are  the  Cheviots,  mixed 
with  a  few  of  the  black-faced,  and  the  ewes  of  each  of 
these  are,  in  many  cases,  crossed  with  the  Leicesters ; 
considerable  improvements  have  recently  been  made  in 
husbandry,  consisting  chiefly  in  drainage,  and  the  re- 
claiming of  waste  land.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £1397.  Veins  of  copper-ore  have  been 
discovered  on  the  estate  of  St.  Bathan's,  and  were 
worked  in  1S28,  by  an  English  mining  company;  but 
after  the  first  attempt  the  undertaking  was  abandoned. 
There  is  no  village ;  but  a  group  of  pleasing  and  inter- 
esting objects  in  the  beautiful  and  romantic  vale 
through  which  the  Whiteadder  runs,  includes  the  house 
of  St.  Bathan's,  a  corn-mill,  the  church,  the  manse 
standing  on  an  acclivity  in  the  midst  of  trees,  and  the 
school-house.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to 
the  presbytery  of  Dunse  and  synod  of  Merse  andTeviot- 
dale ;  the  patronage  belongs  to  the  Crown,  and  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £155.  9.  3.,  with  a  manse,  built  in 
1S22,  and  a  glebe  of  14  acres,  worth  £13  per  annum. 
The  church,  which  is  an  ancient  edifice  in  good  repair, 
is  conveniently  situated,  and  accommodates  140  per- 
sons ;  the  east  window,  of  pointed  architecture,  is  still 
in  some  measure  preserved.  When  lately  repairing  the 
north  wall  of  the  edifice,  a  recumbent  statue  of  a  nun 
was  found,  but  without  any  inscription  :  in  this  wall  was 
formerly  an  arched  door,  now  built  up,  which  communi- 
cated with  the  monastic  buildings.  There  is  a  parochial 
school,  in  which  the  usual  branches  of  education  are 
taught,  with  mathematics,  and  Latin,  and  of  which  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £26.  8.,  with  about  £12  fees,  and 
a  house.  In  a  woody  nook  at  a  little  distance  from  the 
church  is  a  spring  named  St.  Bathan's  well,  formerly 
esteemed  of  miraculous  power  in  healing  diseases,  and 
to  which  the  superstitious  still  attach  many  surprising 
virtues. 

BATHGATE,  a  burgh  of  barony,  and  a  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Linlithgow,  7  miles  (S.  by  W.)  from  Linlith- 
gow, and  18  (W.  by  S.)  from  Edinburgh ;  containing,  with 
the  village  of  Armadale,  392S  inhabitants,  of  whom  2809 
are  in  the  town.  This  place,  of  which  the  name,  in  a 
charter  of  Malcolm  IV.  written  Batket,  is  of  unknown 
derivation,  formed  part  of  the  extensive  possessions  given 
by  King  Robert  Bruce,  in  1316,  with  his  daughter, 
the  Princess  Marjory,  on  her  marriage  to  Walter,  high 
steward  of  Scotland,  ancestor  of  the  royal  family  of 


BAT  II 


BAT  II 


Stuart,  who  had  one  of  his  principal  residences  at  this 
place,  where  he  died  in  132S.  Of  this  ancient  castle, 
some  slight  traces  of  the  foundations  only  are  discern- 
ible, in  a  morass  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
town,  in  which,  though  it  has  been  drained  and  brought 
into  cultivation,  kitchen  utensils  of  brass,  and  coffins 
rudely  formed  of  flat  stones,  have  been  discovered  by 
the  plough.  The  barony,  with  the  sheriffdom,  which 
had  been  annexed  to  it,  was  granted  by  Charles  II.,  in 
1663,  to  Thomas  Hamilton,  and  subsequently  became 
the  property  of  the  Hope  family,  of  whom  John,  the 
second  Earl  of  Hopetoun,  on  the  abolition  of  hereditary 
jurisdictions,  in  1747,  claimed  £2000,  as  an  indemnity. 
There  are  few  events  of  importance  connected  with  the 
history  of  Bathgate,  with  the  exception  of  some  occa- 
sional encounters  which  took  place,  during  the  time  of 
the  Covenanters,  between  the  inhabitants  and  the  soldier}' 
who  were  sent  to  disperse  their  meetings. 

The  town  is  chiefly  situated  on  the  acclivity  of  a  hill, 
on  the  north  side  of  the  middle  road  from  Glasgow  to 
Edinburgh,  and  consists  of  several  well-formed  streets 
of  neatly-built  houses,  from  which  others,  of  inferior 
character,  branch  off  in  various  directions.  The  prin- 
cipal streets  are  paved,  and  well  lighted  with  gas  from 
works  erected  by  a  company  recently  formed  ;  and  the 
inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  with  water.  A  subscrip- 
tion library  has  been  recently  established,  which  has  a 
collection  of  about  300  volumes,  and  is  well  supported  ; 
the  post-office  has  two  deliveries  from  Glasgow,  and 
one  from  Edinburgh,  daily,  and  branches  of  the  Na- 
tional Bank  of  Scotland,  and  the  Glasgow  Union  Bank, 
have  been  opened  in  the  town.  The  cotton  manufacture 
is  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent,  affording  employ- 
ment to  about  500  of  the  inhabitants,  in  hand-loom 
weaving,  chiefly  for  the  Glasgow  houses  ;  and  about  160 
women  and  girls  are  engaged  in  tambour-work.  A  dis- 
tillery and  a  brewery,  both  on  an  extensive  scale,  are  in 
active  operation ;  and  there  are  two  brick  and  tile 
works,  in  which  several  hands  are  employed.  The 
market,  which  is  abundantly  supplied  with  grain,  and 
numerously  attended,  is  on  Wednesday ;  and  fairs  for 
cattle  and  horses  are  held  on  the  third  Wednesday  in 
April,  the  first  Wednesday  after  Whitsuntide  (O.  S.),  the 
fourth  Wednesday  in  June,  the  third  Wednesday  in 
August,  the  fourth  Wednesday  in  October,  and  the  first 
Wednesday  after  Martinmas  (O.  S.).  Of  these,  the  prin- 
cipal are  the  Whitsuntide  and  Martinmas  fairs,  which 
are  attended  by  dealers  from  all  parts  of  the  country. 
Facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  the  Edinburgh 
and  Glasgow,  and  the  Lanark  and  Borrowstounness, 
turnpike-roads,  which  pass  through  the  parish,  and  by 
other  roads  kept  in  good  repair  by  statute  labour  ;  and 
a  branch  from  the  Slamannan  railway  will  be  ex- 
tended to  this  place,  and  contribute  greatly  to  pro- 
mote its  intercourse  with  the  neighbouring  districts. 
The  inhabitants,  with  the  concurrence  of  the  superior  of 
the  town,  obtained  an  act  of  parliament,  in  1824,  con- 
ferring a  charter  of  incorporation,  and  vesting  the 
government  of  the  burgh  in  a  provost,  three  bailies,  a 
treasurer,  and  twelve  councillors,  annually  elected  by 
the  burgesses,  who  must  be  holders  of  houses  or  tene- 
ments valued  at  £3  per  annum,  and  are  entitled  to  become 
burgesses  on  the  payment  of  fees  not  exceeding  £2.  2. 
The  jurisdiction  of  the  magistrates,  which  is  confined  to 
the  limits  of  the  burgh,  extends  to  civil  pleas  not  ex- 
111 


ceeding  £25,  and  to  the  trial  of  petty  offences,  for  which 
they  hold  courts  as  occasion  may  require  ;  but  the  num- 
ber of  causes  is  very  inconsiderable,  and  courts  for  the 
recovery  of  small  debts  are  held  every  two  months,  by 
the  magistrates.  A  sheriff's  court  is  held  four  times  in 
the  year,  under  the  sheriff  of  the  county,  who  is  also 
appointed  sheriff  of  Bathgate.  There  is  a  small  prison, 
containing  three  cells  for  criminals,  and  a  room  for 
debtors,  under  the  management  of  the  corporation  ;  but 
it  is  rarely  used,  except  for  the  temporary  confinement 
of  deserters  on  their  route  to  Glasgow  or  Edinburgh. 
The  seal  of  the  burgh  simply  bears  the  inscription, 
"  Sigillum  Commune  Burgi  de  Bathgate,"  in  an  outer 
circle,  and,  within,  the  words,  "erected  by  act  of  parlia- 
ment 5th  Geo.  IV.  1824,"  with  a  crown. 

The  parish  is  about  seven  miles  and  a  half  in  length, 
and  about  four  miles  in  extreme  breadth,  comprising  an 
area  of  11,214  acres,  of  which  S700  are  arable,  S00  pas- 
ture, 500  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder, 
excepting  the  site  of  the  town  and  the  village  of  Arma- 
dale, roads  and  waste.  The  surface,  though  generally 
level,  is  diversified  by  the  hills  of  the  Knock  and  the 
Reiving  Craig,  which  nearly  equal  the  Cairnapple  in 
height,  attaining  an  elevation  of  about  1450  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  only  river  in  the  parish  is  the  Almond, 
which  separates  it,  for  about  a  mile,  from  the  parish  of 
Whitburn ;  there  are  numerous  springs,  and,  in  the 
grounds  of  Balbardie,  a  lake  partly  artificial,  about 
eleven  acres  in  extent,  and  averaging  five  feet  in  depth. 
The  soil,  on  the  slopes  of  the  hills,  is  rich,  and  in  the 
lower  grounds  wet  and  marshy,  though  it  has  been 
greatly  benefited  by  draining  ;  and  the  lands  which  are 
not  under  tillage,  afford  good  pasturage  for  cattle.  The 
system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  improved  state,  and  a 
considerable  portion  of  waste  has  been  reclaimed;  the 
crops  are,  grain  of  every  sort,  with  potatoes  and  tur- 
nips, and  much  attention  is  paid  to  the  management 
of  the  dairy-farms.  Few  sheep  are  pastured,  and  the 
cattle  are  of  various  mixed  breeds,  but,  on  the  daiiy- 
farms,  mostly  of  the  pure  Ayrshire  kind.  The  farm 
buildings  are  inferior  to  others  in  the  district;  but  im- 
provements are  gradually  taking  place,  under  the  aus- 
pices of  an  agricultural  society  in  the  town,  which  awards 
premiums  at  its  annual  meetings,  when  there  is  a  show 
of  cattle.  A  horticultural  society  has  also  been  esta- 
blished. The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£12,975. 

The  plantations  consist  of  oak,  ash,  elm,  and  plane, 
with  larch,  and  silver,  spruce,  and  Scotch  firs.  The 
substratum  is  principally  coal,  forming  part  of  the  cen- 
tral coal-field  of  Scotland,  but  the  seams  are  frequently 
intersected  with  dykes  of  whiustone.  Limestone  is  also 
found,  both  of  the  marine  and  lacustrine  formation ;  in 
the  former,  are  various  species  of  corrallines,  ammonites, 
and  marine  shells,  and  in  both  are  veins  of  lead  con- 
taining portions  of  silver-ore.  In  one  of  the  mines, 
called  the  silver  mine,  the  ore  was  wrought  for  some 
time,  yielding  a  considerable  quantity  of  silver,  which 
gradually  diminished  till  the  working  was  ultimately 
discontinued.  In  connexion  with  the  strata  of  coal,  is 
found  iron- ore,  which  was  formerly  wrought  by  the 
Carron  Iron  Company,  and  for  the  working  of  which,  in 
another  part  of  the  parish,  a  company  recently  formed 
have  commenced  operations  ;  and  there  are  occasionally 
found,  in  the  limestone,  thin  layers  of  mineral  pitch. 


BEAT 


B  ED  R 


Several  coal-mines  are  in  operation,  and  some  have  been 
recently  discontinued  ;  there  are  also  lime-works,  all  of 
which  produce  lime  of  good  quality.  Freestone  and 
whinstone  are  likewise  abundant ;  of  the  former,  one 
quarry  is  constantly  wrought,  on  the  lands  of  Balbardie, 
producing  stone  of*  excellent  quality  for  building,  and 
the  latter  is  wrought  occasionally  for  the  roads.  Bal- 
bardie House,  in  the  parish,  is  a  handsome  mansion, 
erected  towards  the  close  of  the  last  century,  after  a 
design  by  Mr.  Adam,  and  beautifully  situated  in  a  well- 
wooded  park  of  more  than  100  acres,  containing  much 
diversified  scenery  ;  and  Boghead,  another  residence,  is 
surrounded  with  thriving  plantations,  formed  by  the 
present  proprietor. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Linlithgow  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£132.  S.  4.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £19 
per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun.  The  church, 
erected  in  1/39,  is  a  plain  building,  situated  in  the  town, 
and  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish  ;  it  is  in  good 
repair,  and  contains  719  sittings,  a  number  very  inade- 
quate to  the  population.  There  are  places  of  worship 
for  Free  Church,  Relief,  United  Secession,  and  Original 
Burgher  congregations.  The  parochial  school  is  well 
attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4|.,  with 
a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £26  per 
annum.  The  Bathgate  Academy  was  founded  by  Mr. 
John  Newlands,  a  native  of  this  parish,  who  died  in 
Jamaica,  in  1799,  and  bequeathed  the  principal  part  of 
his  property  to  trustees,  for  the  erection  and  endow- 
men  of  a  free  school  here.  The  trustees,  after  resisting 
an  attempt  to  invalidate  the  bequest,  in  which  they 
were  indemnified  by  the  personal  security  of  Mr. 
Majoribanks,  received  £14,500,  and  immediately  opened 
schools  in  different  parts  of  the  parish,  which,  on  the 
subsequent  increase  of  the  funds,  were  concentrated 
in  the  present  institution,  in  1S33.  The  academy  is 
under  the  superintendence  of  a  rector,  who  is  also  the 
classical  master,  two  English  masters,  and  a  master  for 
writing,  arithmetic,  and  the  mathematics ;  and  is  at- 
tended by  about  500  children,  who  are  all  gratuitously 
taught.  The  building  is  a  handsome  structure,  consist- 
ing of  a  centre  and  two  wings  connected  by  a  colonnade, 
and  comprises  a  house  for  the  rector,  with  four  ample 
class-rooms,  a  library,  in  which  are  more  than  700 
volumes,  and  other  apartments,  with  a  spacious  play- 
ground in  front.  The  poor  are  partly  supported  by  the 
interest  of  £1100  bequeathed  by  Mr.  Henry  Calder, 
yielding  £53  per  annum.  There  are  some  Druidical 
remains  in  the  vicinity ;  and  in  different  parts  of  the 
parish,  have  been  found  coins  of  Edward  I.,  Queen 
Elizabeth,  and  Charles  II.  Several  of  the  springs  are 
strongly  chalybeate  ;  and  on  the  estate  of  Couston,  the 
water  resembles  in  its  quality  that  of  the  celebrated 
spring  of  Dollar. 

BAYNTON,  county  of  Fife. —See  Baneton. 

BEATH,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Dunfermline, 
county  of  Fife,  2|  miles  (S.)  from  Blair-Adam  Inn  ; 
containing,  with  the  villages  of  Cowden-Beath,  Kelty, 
and  Oakfield,  973  inhabitants.  This  parish,  though 
now  destitute  of  any  trees  of  the  kind,  is  supposed  to 
have  originally  abounded  with  birch,  and  from  that  cir- 
cumstance to  have  derived  its  name,  anciently  written 
Baith,  which,  in  the  Gaelic  language,  signifies  a  birch- 
112 


tree.  It  is  situated  on  the  great  road  from  Perth  to 
Quecnsferry,  extending  for  about  four  miles  in  length, 
and  three  miles  in  breadth,  and  comprising  6500  acres, 
of  which  about  5300  are  arable,  500  meadow  and  pas- 
ture, 500  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder 
water  and  waste.  The  surface  is  very  irregular,  rising 
in  many  places  into  hills  of  considerable  elevation,  some 
of  which  afford  rich  pasture,  and  one  called  the  Hill  of 
Beath  commands  interesting  views ;  the  scenery  has 
been,  in  some  parts,  enriched  with  thriving  plantations, 
and  is  enlivened  by  the  loch  Fitty,  a  fine  sheet  of  water, 
about  three  miles  in  circumference,  and  abounding  with 
pike,  perch,  and  other  fish.  The  soil  is  generally  good, 
consisting  of  a  clay  and  loam,  interspersed  occasionally 
with  moss  ;  the  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  peas,  beans, 
potatoes,  and  turnips,  with  wheat  occasionally,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  flax.  The  system  of  agriculture  is 
excellent ;  a  considerable  quantity  of  waste  has  been 
reclaimed,  and  much  which,  from  previous  mismanage- 
ment, had  been  unproductive,  has  been  rendered  fertile. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4404.  The 
substrata  are  chiefly  whinstone  and  sandstone;  coaljs 
found  in  abundance,  and  there  arc  at  present  three  col- 
lieries worked  in  the  parish,  which  afford  a  plentiful 
supply  of  fuel ;  limestone  is  also  wrought,  but  on  a  very 
limited  scale.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dun- 
fermline and  synod  of  Fife,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the 
Earl  of  Moray ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  about  £165, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £17  per  annum. 
The  church  is  a  handsome  edifice,  erected  in  1S35,  by 
the  heritors,  and  affords  ample  accommodation.  The 
parochial  school  is  attended  by  about  100  pupils;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  £30  fees,  and  a 
house  and  garden. 

BEAULY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kilmorack, 
county  of  Inverness,  18  miles  (W.)  from  Inverness; 
containing  560  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  and  was  distinguished 
for  a  priory  founded  in  1230,  which,  at  the  Dissolution, 
came  into  the  possession  of  Hugh,  Lord  Frazer,  of 
Lovat,  in  whose  family  it  continued  until  1745,  when  it 
was  forfeited  to  the  crown  :  a  portion  of  the  walls  is 
still  standing.  The  village  is  a  considerable  thorough- 
fare to  and  from  all  the  more  northern  Highland  coun- 
ties ;  and  the  Beauly  is  navigable  for  small  vessels  for 
about  three  miles  above  it.  The  river  is  formed  by  the 
union,  near  Erkless  Castle,  of  the  Farrur,  Canich,  and 
Glass  streams,  and  takes  an  easterly  course,  and,  after 
forming  the  falls  of  Kilmorack  and  other  cascades, 
merges  in  an  arm  of  the  sea  connected  with  the  Moray 
Frith. 

BEDRULE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Jedburgh, 
county  of  Roxburgh,  3  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Jedburgh ; 
containing,  with  the  villages  of  Newtown  and  Rew- 
castle,  256  inhabitants,  of  whom  1 1 1  are  in  the  village 
of  Bedrule.  This  place  derives  its  name  from  its  situa- 
tion on  the  small  but  rapid  and  impetuous  river  Rule, 
whose  waters,  impeded  in  their  progress  by  fragments 
of  loosened  rock,  pursue  their  course  with  tumultuous 
noise.  It  lays  claim  to  considerable  antiquity,  and 
formed  part  of  the  possessions  of  the  Turnbull  family, 
one  of  whose  descendants  was  keeper  of  the  privy  seal 
in  1441,  and  subsequently  Bishop  of  Glasgow.  The 
parish,  which  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  county,  is  of 
elliptic  form,  and  comprises  about  1600  acres  of  arable 


BEDR 


BEIT 


land,  and  an  equal  quantity  in  pasture,  with  about  40 
acres  of  wood  and  plantations,  and  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  waste.  The  surface  is  diversified  with  hills  and 
dales  ;  of  the  former,  the  hill  of  Daman,  in  the  south- 
east, is  the  highest,  rising  in  a  circular  form  to  an  ele- 
vation of  more  than  1000  feet  above  the  sea;  it  is  flat 
on  the  summit,  and  forms  a  conspicuous  mark  for 
mariners.  The  scenery  is  generally  pleasing,  and  in 
some  parts  enriched  with  stately  wood.  The  chief  rivers 
are,  the  Rule,  which  winds  beautifully  between  wooded 
banks  displaying  much  picturesque  beauty ;  and  the 
Teviot,  which  skirts  the  parish  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, and  receives  the  waters  of  the  Rule  at  no  great 
distance  from  the  village. 

The  soil  is  extremely  various,  though  generally  fertile ; 
near  the  rivers  it  is  a  rich  sandy  loam,  resting  on  a  bed 
of  gravel,  and  in  some  parts  intermixed  with  clay  ;  in 
others,  of  a  thinner  and  less  productive  quality,  on  a 
subsoil  of  retentive  clay.  The  principal  crops  are,  oats, 
barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the  system  of 
agriculture  is  improved,  and  lime  and  bone-dust  are  un- 
sparingly used  for  manure.  Great  attention  is  paid  to 
the  rearing  of  live  stock,  for  which  the  pastures  are  well 
adapted  ;  the  sheep  are  of  the  Cheviot  breed,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  scores  of  the  Leicestershire,  and  a 
few  Merinos ;  the  cattle,  of  which  only  a  moderate 
number  are  fed  for  the  butcher,  are  all  of  the  short- 
horned  breed.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £2J47.  The  woods  consist  chiefly  of  birch,  alder, 
common  and  mountain  ash,  hazel,  cherry,  and  oak  ;  and 
the  plantations,  of  firs  of  all  kinds,  which  thrive  well. 
The  substrata  are  generally  greywacke,  of  which  the 
hills  mainly  consist,  and  sandstone  of  a  reddish  hue ; 
there  are  some  indications  of  coal,  but  no  adequate 
attempts  have  been  made  to  obtain  it ;  limestone  is  also 
found,  at  Bedrule  hill,  and  a  quarry  was  formerly  open 
there,  but  the  working  of  it  has  been  discontinued.  The 
sandstone  is  of  excellent  quality,  and  is  extensively 
quarried  for  building  and  for  ornamental  uses.  Knows- 
worth  House,  in  the  parish,  is  a  very  elegant  mansion 
in  the  Elizabethan  style  of  architecture,  situated  in  a 
highly  picturesque  and  richly-wooded  demesne,  laid  out 
with  great  taste. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbyter}'  of  Jedburgh  and 
synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £148.  9.  S.,  with  a  manse  and  glebe ;  patrons,  the 
Hume  family.  The  church,  erected  about  1S05,  is  a  sub- 
stantial edifice,  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  steep  bank, 
and  is  adapted  for  140  persons.  The  parochial  school 
is  well  attended ;  the  master's  salary  is  £26,  with  £7 
fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  There  are  some  slight 
remains  of  the  castle  of  Bedrule,  the  baronial  seat  of  the 
Turnbulls,  consisting  chiefly  of  the  foundations  of  the 
ancient  buildings,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rule  ;  and 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  are  vestiges  of  out- 
works formerly  connected  with  that  stronghold  ;  the 
site  commands  an  extensive  prospect.  Remains  also 
exist  of  an  old  fort  at  Fulton,  one  of  the  numerous 
strongholds  erected  during  the  times  of  border  warfare. 
On  the  farm  of  Newton,  near  the  road  from  Jedburgh 
to  Hawick,  is  the  site  of  an  encampment,  surrounded  on 
all  sides  but  one  by  a  fosse  of  running  water;  it  is  situ- 
ated on  the  slope  of  a  hill,  and  is  about  600  feet  in 
circumference  ;  it  is  supposed  to  have  been  an  out- 
station  connected  with  a  Roman  camp  at  Stirk-rigg, 
Vol.  I.— 113 


about  a  mile  distant,  but  of  which  every  trace  has  been 
obliterated  by  the  plough.  Not  far  from  this  station, 
is  a  well  called  Our  Lady's  Well,  said  to  have  been  con- 
structed by  the  monks  of  Jedburgh,  for  a  fish-pond. 

BEIL-GRANGE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Sten- 
ton,  county  of  Haddington,  1  mile  (S.  S.  W.)  from 
Stenton ;  containing  53  inhabitants.  It  is  near  the 
borders  of  the  parish  of  Dunbar,  and  is  remarkable  for 
a  splendid  mansion  in  its  vicinity,  built  by  the  Nisbet 
family  :  the  Beil  rivulet  passes  on  the  north  of  the 
hamlet,  and,  flowing  by  Belton  and  West  Barns,  empties 
itself  into  the  German  Sea. 

BEITH,  a  parish,  chiefly  in  the  district  of Cunning- 
hame,  county  of  Ayr,  but  partly  in  the  Upper  ward 
of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  18  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from 
Glasgow  ;  including  the  villages  of  Gateside,  Northbar, 
and  Burnhouse,  and  containing  5795  inhabitants.  This 
place  is  supposed  to  have  taken  its  name  from  a  Celtic 
term  signifying  "  birch,"  and  many  parts  of  the  district 
are  referred  to,  as  still  bearing  names  formed  partly 
with  the  word  icood,  such  as  Roughwood,  Woodside, 
Threepwood,  and  others.  The  locality  consisted,  in 
ancient  times,  of  the  two  great  divisions  called  the 
barony  of  Beith,  and  the  lordship  of  Giffen,  the  latter 
being  the  more  extensive,  and  the  two  districts  being 
divided  from  each  other  by  the  Powgree,  a  stream 
falling  into  the  Garnock  near  the  south  end  of  Kilbirnie 
loch.  The  barony  was  given  by  Richard  de  Moreville, 
the  son  and  successor  of  Hugh  de  Moreville,  constable 
of  Scotland,  and  lord  of  Cunninghame,  to  the  abbey  of 
Kilwinning  ;  and  his  wife  Avicia  de  Lancaster,  gave  the 
lands  of  Beith,  Bath,  and  Threepwood,  also  to  the 
abbey  ;  which  conveyances  were  made  in  the  12th  cen- 
tury. This  religious  establishment  erected  a  chapel 
here,  afterwards  the  church  of  Beith,  the  monks  enjoy- 
ing the  tithes  and  revenues,  and  finding  a  curate  to  do 
the  duty ;  but,  about  the  period  of  the  Reformation, 
the  abbot  and  chapter  feued  out  the  lands  in  the  barony 
for  small  feuduties,  which,  with  the  other  temporalities 
of  the  church,  passed  to  Hugh,  fifth  earl  of  Eglinton, 
who  was  created  lord  of  erection  of  the  monastery.  The 
lordship  of  Giffen  was  given  by  the  family  of  the  de 
Morevilles,  to  W alter  de  Mulcaster,  the  donation  com- 
prehending the  whole  of  the  lands  to  the  south  and 
west  of  the  Powgree  ;  and  the  ruins  of  a  chapel  founded 
by  the  monastery  of  Kilwinning,  and  dedicated  to  St. 
Bridget,  are  still  to  be  seen  on  a  part  of  this  property. 

Beith,  at  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  was  only 
a  small  village,  consisting  of  a  few  houses  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  church,  but  has  since  grown  into  a  thriving 
manufacturing  town,  with  a  large  and  industrious 
population  ;  it  is  situated  on  an  eminence,  in  the  midst 
of  a  district  abounding  with  beautiful  scenery,  and  is 
well  lighted  with  gas,  supplied  by  a  company  established 
in  1831,  with  a  capital  of  £1600.  The  town  contains 
a  subscription  library,  with  400  volumes ;  and  two 
circulating  libraries.  The  population,  which  also  com- 
prises several  respectable  and  wealthy  merchants,  and 
persons  engaged  in  various  kinds  of  traffic,  is,  to  a  great 
extent,  composed  of  hand-loom  weavers ;  and  about 
200  persons  resident,  in  the  parish,  are  regularly  engaged 
in  the  manufacture  of  flax  thread.  A  mill  for  spinning 
flax,  lately  erected  at  North-bar,  two  miles  from  the 
town,  affords  employment  to  eighty  hands  ;  the  pro- 
prietor has  built,  several  houses,  and  has  commenced 

Q 


BEIT 


BEIT 


feus,  so  that  a  considerable  village  may  be  expected 
shortly  to  arise  on  this  spot.  At  Roughbank,  is  an 
establishment  of  the  same  description,  but  on  a  smaller 
scale,  and  also  a  mill  for  making  potato-flour,  occu- 
pying about  fourteen  persons ;  and  at  Knows,  an  esta- 
blishment has  been  formed,  containing  forty  steam- 
looms,  furnishing  employment  to  thirty  persons  :  there 
are  two  bleachfields  at  Threepwood,  in  the  north-eastern 
part  of  the  parish ;  and  in  the  town,  the  tanning  and 
currying  of  leather  are  pursued  to  a  good  extent.  Many 
persons  carry  on  a  large  traffic  in  grain,  and  the 
enterprising  spirit  of  the  inhabitants  has  left  untouched 
scarcely  any  article  of  profitable  speculation.  Beith  is 
a  post-town,  and  there  are  two  arrivals  and  departures 
daily ;  also  a  daily  dispatch  of  letters  to  the  neigh- 
bouring towns  of  Dairy,  Kilbirnie,  and  Lochwinnoch  : 
the  great  line  of  road  from  Glasgow  to  Portpatrick 
passes  through  the  town,  and  the  Glasgow  and  Ayrshire 
railway  crosses  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish,  and 
has  one  of  its  principal  stations  here.  The  marketable 
produce  is  usually  sent  for  sale  to  Glasgow  and  Paisley ; 
a  weekly  market,  however,  of  ancient  date,  is  held  on 
Friday,  and  fairs  are  held,  chiefly  for  horses,  on  the 
first  Friday  in  the  months  of  January,  February,  May, 
and  November,  old  style.  A  festival,  also,  called  vul- 
garly Tenant's  day,  attended  by  a  great  concourse  of 
people,  and  celebrated  for  its  show  of  horses,  is  held 
yearly  on  the  ISth  of  August  (O.  S.),  in  honour  of  St. 
Inan,  from  which  name,  with  the  last  letter  of  the  word 
saint,  the  present  appellation  has  been  formed,  by  cor- 
rupt usage.  Inan  flourished  about  the  year  S39,  and, 
though  resident  chiefly  at  Irvine,  occasionally  remained 
for  a  time  at  this  place,  where  he  has  left  memorials 
in  the  name  applied  to  the  cleft  in  a  rock,  still  called 
St.  Inan's  chair,  and  in  the  name  of  a  well,  called  St. 
Inan's  well.  A  fair  called  the  "Trades'  race,"  was  for- 
merly held,  in  June,  when  the  trades  assembled,  and 
went  in  order  through  the  town,  with  music  and  flags, 
but  this  has  been  given  up ;  there  is,  however,  an  annual 
dinner  among  the  merchants,  who  were  united  as  a 
society  previously  to  the  year  1727,  and  the  whole  of 
whom  meet  for  conviviality  on  the  anniversary,  and 
annually  choose  a  president.  A  kind  of  fair,  likewise, 
is  held  in  July,  called  the  "  Cadgers'  race,"  when  the 
carters  ride  in  procession  through  the  town.  A  baron- 
bailie  and  an  officer  were  formerly  appointed  by  the  Earl 
of  Eglinton,  who  had  considerable  property  in  the 
parish ;  but  nothing  of  this  kind  has  taken  place 
for  many  years,  and  the  town  has  no  particular  local 
government.  The  town-house  was  built  by  subscrip- 
tion, in  1817;  the  lower  part  consists  of  two  shops,  and 
the  upper  part  of  a  large  hall  in  which  are  held  the 
justice-of- peace  courts,  the  sheriff  small-debt  circuit 
courts,  and  various  public  meetings ;  it  is  also  used  as 
a  public  reading-room.  The  lower  part  of  the  building 
contains  a  lock-up  house,  for  the  custody  of  prisoners 
intended  to  be  sent  to  Ayr,  and  for  the  punishment  of 
minor  offenders. 

The  parish  is  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  west  by  Kilbirnie  loch.  It  measures 
at  its  greatest  length,  from  south-east  to  south-west, 
four  miles,  and  comprises  11,060  acres,  of  which  500 
are  in  Renfrewshire  ;  about  320  acres  are  uncultivated, 
100  in  plantations,  and  the  remainder  is  pasture  and 
tillage.  The  surface  is  considerably  varied,  throughout, 
114 


with  undulations,  without  presenting  any  remarkable 
elevations,  the  highest  point,  called  Cuff  hill,  being  only 
652  feet  above  the  sea ;  but  from  this  eminence,  as 
well  as  from  some  of  the  uplands,  extensive  and  beau- 
tiful views  are  obtained  of  the  surrounding  country, 
amply  compensating  for  the  general  uniformity  of  the 
local  scenery.  The  hill  is  supposed  to  take  its  name 
from  the  word  Coifi,  or  Cuifi,  the  appellation  of  the 
chief  priest  of  the  Druids,  and  to  have  been  a  prin- 
cipal seat  of  the  worship  of  that  ancient  order ;  the  fair 
of  St.  Inan,  also,  in  later  times,  was  held  here,  and 
from  the  top  may  be  seen  the  mountain  ranges  of 
Galloway  and  Carrick,  the  expansive  estuary  of  the 
Clyde,  the  outline  of  the  Perthshire  hills,  and  the 
majestic  Ben-Lomond.  The  surface  gently  slopes  from 
the  north-eastern  quarter,  the  vicinity  of  Cuff  hill,  and 
is  lowest  at  Kilbirnie  loch,  being  here  only  ninety  feet 
above  the  sea ;  and  from  this  sheet  of  water,  a  stream 
flows  northward,  through  Lochwinnoch,  to  the  river 
Clyde,  along  a  valley  in  which  runs  the  line  of  railway 
to  Glasgow.  At  Blaeloch-head  is  a  small  lake  j  and  in 
different  parts  are  several  streams,  the  two  principal 
being  the  river  Lugton,  rising  in  Lochlibo,  and  falling 
into  the  Garnock  below  Eglinton  Castle,  and  the  Dusk, 
which  rises  at  Threepwood,  and  joins  the  Garnock  at 
Dalgarvan,  below  Dairy.  The  lands  present  a  great 
variety  of  soil,  but  in  general  are  fertile,  and  tolerably 
well  cultivated ;  the  chief  crop  is  oats,  but  large  por- 
tions are  in  pasture,  and  about  900  milch  cows,  mostly 
.  of  the  Ayrshire  breed,  besides  young  cattle,  are  grazed 
on  the  different  grounds.  Cheese  is  consequently  a 
leading  article  of  traffic,  and  is  purchased  of  the  tenants 
by  cheese-merchants,  for  the  Glasgow  market ;  milk  is 
also  disposed  of,  to  some  extent,  in  the  surrounding 
villages,  and  large  quantities  of  rye-grass  seed  are 
shipped  to  England,  by  merchants  residing  in  the  town. 
The  farms  are  of  small  size,  varying  from  50  to  100 
acres  ;  and  fully  two-thirds  of  the  rent  are  made  by 
the  sale  of  the  cheese,  which  is  of  excellent  quality,  and 
brings  the  highest  price  at  market.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £15,140.  The  chief  mineral 
deposits  are  coal  and  limestone,  which  are  wrought  ex- 
tensively ;  clay-ironstone  is  also  found,  and  good  brick- 
clay,  used  at  manufactories  here  for  making  drain-tiles ; 
ironstone  exists  in  several  parts,  and  a  freestone  quarry 
is  in  operation.  Plantations  are  rare,  especially  those 
of  an  ornamental  kind,  except  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
mansions,  among  which  is  Caldwell  House,  at  the  eastern 
extremity  of  the  parish,  a  large  and  elegant  modern 
structure,  surrounded  by  a  spacious  park,  richly  orna- 
mented with  trees,  including  some  of  great  stature  and 
beauty.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Irvine  and 
synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the 
Earl  of  Eglinton  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £251.  5.  11., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £130  per  annum. 
The  church,  commenced  in  1S07,  and  opened  for  pub- 
lic worship  in  1810,  is  a  plain  edifice,  with  a  tower 
and  clock,  and  accommodates  1254  persons  ;  it  was 
erected  at  a  cost  of  £2790,  and  the  bell,  which  has  a 
very  fine  tone,  was  the  gift  of  Robert  Shedden,  Esq.,  of 
London,  a  native  of  Beith.  There  are  places  of  worship 
for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  the  Associate  Synod, 
and  the  Relief  persuasion.  The  parochial  school  affords 
instruction  in  the  usual  branches  ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £26,  with  fees,  and  a  substantial  residence  : 


B  E  L  H 


BELL 


there  are  also  schools  at  Hazlehead  and  other  places. 
A  savings'  bank  was  formed  in  1S34,  and  two  societies 
have  been  partly  endowed,  for  the  relief  of  the  poor. 
Alexander  Montgomerie,  one  of  the  earlier  Scottish 
poets,  and  of  some  celebrity,  was  born  in  the  parish. 

BELHAVEN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dunbar, 
county  of  Haddington,  f  of  a  mile  (W.)  from  Dunbar  ; 
containing  380  inhabitants.  It  is  a  suburb  of  Dunbar, 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  south-eastern  shore  of  Bel- 
haven  bay,  which  opens  into  the  Frith  of  Forth  ;  and 
a  strong  mineral  spring  draws  hither  a  number  of  sum- 
mer visiters.  A  church  was  opened  for  divine  service 
in  1840,  since  which  period  a  place  of  worship  has  been 
erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church.  The  place 
gives  the  title  of  Baron  to  a  branch  of  the  noble  family 
of  Hamilton. 

BELHELVIE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  and  county 
of  Aberdeen,  8  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Aberdeen  ;  con- 
taining 1594  inhabitants.  The  name  of  this  place  is 
derived  from  a  word  in  the  Gaelic  language,  signifying 
the  "  mouths  of  the  rivulets,"  and  applied,  in  the  pre- 
sent case,  as  descriptive  of  the  locality,  which  is  marked 
by  the  rise  of  seven  small  streams.  Here  were  several 
Druidical  temples,  which  have  now  disappeared  before 
the  operations  of  husbandry,  indicating  the  original 
settlement  of  that  ancient  and  widely-spreading  people 
in  this  district  of  the  country.  Numerous  tumuli  and 
barrows,  also,  are  still  visible,  in  which  are  found  urns 
made  of  coarse  clay,  and  filled  with  dust  and  human 
bones,  pointing  out  this  spot  as  the  scene  of  some  ex- 
tensive military  operations,  the  particulars  of  which  are 
entirely  unknown ;  and  on  the  sea-shore  is  a  bed  of 
yellow  flints,  where  a  considerable  number  of  arrow- 
heads have  been  found  at  different  times.  A  large  part 
of  the  parish,  known  by  the  name  of  the  estate  of 
Belhelvie,  once  belonged  to  the  Earl  of  Panmure,  but, 
being  forfeited  in  1715,  was  purchased  by  the  York 
Building  Company,  and  again  sold,  in  lots,  in  1782, 
before  the  court  of  session,  since  which  time  it  has  been 
brought  into  a  very  superior  state  of  agricultural  im- 
provement. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  German 
Ocean,  and  the  number  of  acres  within  its  limits  is 
19,000,  of  which  5000  were  recovered,  not  long  since, 
from  moorland,  and  5000  still  consist  of  sea-beech, 
peat-bog,  and  wood ;  about  4000  acres  are  employed 
for  grain,  and  10,000  for  turnips,  potatoes,  hay,  pasture, 
grass,  &c.  The  coast  consists  of  a  fine  sandy  beach  ; 
but  the  general  character  of  the  surface,  from  the  sea  to 
the  western  extremity,  is  hilly  and  broken.  The  first 
land  from  the  coast,  is  a  narrow  belt  of  sand,  with  short 
grass  suited  for  pasture,  and,  on  account  of  its  smooth 
surface,  was  selected  by  the  government  engineers  ap- 
pointed to  measure  Scotland,  as  the  most  level  ground 
to  be  met  with,  for  laying  down  a  base  line  of  5  miles 
and  100  feet.  The  next  tract  is  an  alluvial  deposit, 
crowded  with  marine  stones  of  all  sizes,  covered  with 
mould  and  moss;  and  after  this,  the  ground  rises 
towards  the  western  boundary,  until  it  attains  an  eleva- 
tion of  about  S00  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
hills  whereof  the  parish  consists,  are  formed  into  two 
general  ridges,  from  south  to  north,  the  termination  of 
the  western  extremities  of  which  is  the  highest  land  in 
the  district.  The  soil  in  the  parts  nearest  the  shore  is 
sandy,  and  in  some  places  mixed  to  a  great  extent,  with 
115 


clay  and  stones  ;  some  pieces  are  rich  alluvial  deposits, 
and  the  interior  is  a  deep  clayey  mould,  mixed  some- 
times with  peat-moss  :  the  subsoil  is  usually  clay  and 
sand,  with  a  considerable  admixture  of  stones.  All  the 
wood,  which  generally  stands  in  hedge-rows,  has  been 
recently  planted ;  it  comprises  chiefly  elm,  plane,  ash, 
alder,  and  willow.  The  few  sheep  that  are  kept,  are  the 
black-faced ;  and  the  cattle  are  mostly  of  the  Aber- 
deenshire breed,  which,  being  small-boned  and  fleshy,  and 
easily  fed  up,  are  found  most  profitable,  and  are  sent  in 
large  droves  to  the  London  market :  the  cultivation  of 
grain,  however,  is  the  main  dependence  of  the  farmer. 
Considerable  improvements  have  taken  place  of  late 
years  in  husbandry,  in  the  reclaiming  of  waste  land, 
and  in  draining  and  inclosures ;  the  farm-houses  are 
on  a  much  better  scale  than  formerly,  and  most  of  the 
changes  have  been  made  upon  the  best  principles,  and 
by  the  united  efforts  of  the  people  among  themselves. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £7317- 

The  rock  consists  of  trap,  a  seam  of  which,  about 
half  a  mile  broad,  runs  for  seven  miles  through  the 
parish,  from  south-east  to  north-west ;  a  rivulet  flows 
through  this  bed,  and  small  hills  frequently  rise  above 
the  stream  to  a  height  of  some  hundreds  of  feet,  among 
which  are  found  all  the  ordinary  kinds  of  minerals.-  On 
the  south-west  side  of  this  layer,  the  rocks  are  chiefly 
granite  ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  they  consist  of  coarse 
stone,  fit  only  for  the  construction  of  dykes.  There  are, 
also,  large  beds  of  peat-moss,  some  of  which,  near  the 
shore,  are  covered  with  ten  or  twelve  feet  of  sea-sand. 
They  are  supposed  to  extend  some  distance  under  the 
sea,  as  large  masses  or  blocks  of  hard  peat-moss,  with 
the  remains  of  trees  imbedded,  are  frequently  cast  upon 
the  beach  in  stormy  weather :  in  the  year  1799,  at 
Christmas,  a  block  containing  upwards  of  1700  cubic 
feet,  was  thrown  upon  the  shore,  which,  with  the  wood 
contained  in  it,  had  been  perforated  by  several  large 
auger  worms  alive  in  their  holes.  A  salmon- fishery 
extends  along  the  coast,  in  which  stake-nets  are  em- 
ployed, and  the  profits  arising  from  it  are  very  con- 
siderable. Fairs  are  held  for  the  sale  of  cattle,  in 
spring,  summer,  and  autumn.  Ecclesiastically,  the  pa- 
rish is  subject  to  the  presbytery  and  synod  of  Aber- 
deen ;  there  is  a  good  manse,  with  a  glebe  of  five  acres  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £179.  13.,  and  the  patronage 
is  in  the  Crown.  The  church,  which  is  in  good  repair, 
contains  519  sittings ;  and  there  are  places  of  worship 
for  the  Free  Church  and  United  Associate  Synod.  A 
parochial  school  is  supported,  the  teacher  of  which  has 
a  house  and  garden,  with  a  salary  of  £27>  fees  to  the 
amount  of  about  £40,  and  a  portion  of  Dick's  bequest ; 
the  classics  and  mathematics  are  taught,  with  all  the  ordi- 
nary branches  of  education.  Another  school  is  endowed 
with  a  few  acres  of  land  ;  there  is  a  savings'  bank,  with 
a  stock  of  about  £300,  and  bequests  have  been  left  for 
the  relief  of  the  poor,  amounting  to  about  £20  per 
annum.  The  antiquities  are,  some  tumuli,  and  the  ruins 
of  an  old  chapel ;  and  there  are,  also,  several  chaly- 
beate springs,  but  none  of  particular  note. 

BELLIE,  a  parish,  in  the  counties  of  Banff  and 
Elgin,  8  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from  Elgin  ;  including  part  of 
the  quoad  sacra  district  of  Enzie,  and  the  village  of  Foch- 
abers, and  containing  2434  inhabitants.  The  Gaelic 
word  bellaidth,  signifying  "  broom,"  has  been  considered 
by  some  as  giving  the  name  to  this  place ;   but  others 

Q  2 


BELL 


BEND 


derive  it  from  beul-'aith,  the  meaning  of  which  is  "  the 
mouth  of  the  ford."  The  parish  is  situated  on  the 
eastern  bank  of  the  river  Spey,  and  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  Moray  Frith;  it  is  of  an  oblong  form, 
though  narrower  at  the  northern  than  at  the  opposite 
end,  and  comprises  12,048  acres,  of  which  365S  are 
arable,  643  pasture,  2S52  wood,  and  the  remainder 
chiefly  moor.  The  highest  land  is  in  the  south-eastern 
portion,  consisting  principally  of  barren  uncultivated 
moor,  diversified  by  hills  of  various  figures  and  altitudes  ; 
the  soil  here  is  partly  clayey  loam,  mixed  with  moss, 
and  resting  on  a  substratum  of  blue  slate.  On  the  west 
and  south  of  this  high  district,  is  a  red  impervious  clay, 
intermixed  with  gravel  and  small  stones.  The  earth 
near  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  parish  is  sand}'  and 
light,  and  the  lower  lands  are  of  the  same  nature,  ap- 
proximating, in  the  vicinity  of  the  river,  to  a  fertile 
loam,  resting  on  a  stony  or  gravelly  bed,  once  over- 
flowed with  water.  The  tract  along  the  coast,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  is  altogether  barren.  All  kinds 
of  grain  and  green  crops  are  raised,  of  good  quality,  and 
an  improved  method  of  husbandry  has  been  pursued 
with  considerable  enterprise,  for  many  years  ;  barley 
was  formerly  the  leading  crop,  but  since  the  suppression 
of  illicit  distillation,  wheat  has  been  grown  in  large  quan- 
tities, and,  with  oats,  turnips,  and  potatoes,  receives 
much  attention.  The  manures  comprise  lime,  sea-weed, 
farm-yard  dung,  and  the  refuse  of  herrings  obtained 
from  the  fishing-station  of  Port-Gordon,  with,  some- 
times, portions  of  bone-dust.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £4S02,  including  £617  for  the 
Elginshire  portion.  The  principal  rock  is  the  red  sand- 
stone, consisting  of  a  mixture  of  dark  argillaceous  and 
siliceous  earths,  large  masses  of  which  are  applied 
to  various  architectural  uses  ;  but,  though  very  hard 
when  first  quarried,  its  friable  quality,  after  long  ex- 
posure to  the  air,  renders  it  necessary  to  cover  it  with  a 
thick  coating  of  lime.  The  loose  strata,  of  the  same 
component  parts,  in  which  it  is  generally  found,  are 
much  in  demand  for  roads  and  garden-walks,  and  its 
interior  often  contains  breccia  rock.  Beautiful  speci- 
mens of  asbestos  are  frequently  found,  washed  down,  as 
is  supposed,  by  the  mountain  streams. 

The  plantations  include  Scotch  fir,  with  mixtures  of 
birch  and  larch.  The  grounds  of  the  splendid  mansion 
of  Gordon  Castle  exhibit  a  fine  display  of  numerous 
other  trees,  among  which  are  many  limes,  planes,  and 
horse- chesnuts,  with  majestic  rows  of  elm  and  beech, 
and  an  eminence  known  by  the  name  of  the  "  holly 
bank,"  is  covered  with  a  profusion  of  that  evergreen  of 
the  most  luxuriant  description.  This  magnificent  edifice, 
the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond,  is  situated  in  an  ex- 
tensive park  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Fochabers, 
and  stretches  in  a  direction  from  east  to  west  nearly 
570  feet ;  it  is  a  modern  structure,  and  the  roof  and  in- 
terior of  the  eastern  wing  are  of  still  more  recent  date, 
having  been  restored  in  consequence  of  an  accidental 
fire  on  the  11th  of  July,  1827.  The  great  road  from 
Edinburgh  to  Inverness,  through  Aberdeen,  traverses  the 
parish,  and  crosses  the  Spey  by  a  bridge  originally  built 
in  1804,  at  a  cost  of  upwards  of  £14,000  ;  in  1829,  two 
of  the  western  arches  were  carried  away  by  the  flood,  and 
were  replaced  in  1832,  by  a  beautiful  wooden  arch  of 
184  feet  span,  raised  at  an  expense  of  more  than  £5000. 
The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Strathbogie  and 
116 


synod  of  Moray,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Duke  of 
Richmond;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £15S.  6.  8.,  of 
which  about  £60  are  received  from  the  exchequer, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £33  per  annum. 
The  church  is  situated  in  the  village  of  Fochabers,  and 
is  a  handsome  edifice,  built  in  1798.  There  is  a  place 
of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  An  epis- 
copal chapel  has  lately  been  built  by  the  Duchess  of 
Gordon,  on  the  north  side  of  Fochabers ;  the  Roman 
Catholics  have  a  place  of  worship  in  that  village,  and 
another  about  four  miles  distant,  near  the  eastern  boun- 
dary, where  their  clergyman  resides.  The  parochial 
school  affords  instruction  in  the  classics,  in  addition  to 
the  usual  branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4., 
with  a  house  and  garden  given  by  the  Duke  of  Gordon, 
and  £18  fees;  he  also  participates  in  the  Dick  bequest. 
A  legacy  of  100,000  dollars  was  left  by  Mr.  Alexander 
Milne,  merchant  of  New  Orleans,  and  a  native  of  Foch- 
abers, who  died  in  October,  1839,  for  the  erection  and 
endowment  of  a  free  school  for  the  use  of  the  parish  of 
Bellie.  To  the  north  of  Gordon  Castle,  are  the  remains 
of  a  military  station,  of  quadrangular  form,  styled  the 
"  Roman  Camp,"  thought  to  have  been  formed  by  a 
portion  of  the  troops  of  Agricola,  and  intended  to  cover 
a  ford  on  the  river  Tuessis,  or  Spey  ;  a  little  to  the  east, 
are  the  remains  of  a  Druidical  temple,  and  not  far  off,  a 
mound  called  the  "Court  hillock,"  supposed  to  have 
been  the  seat  of  an  ancient  court  of  justice.  Within  the 
Duke  of  Richmond's  park,  is  an  old  cross. 

BELLS-QUARRY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Mid 
Cai.der,  county  of  Edinburgh,  2  miles  (W.)  from  Mid 
Calder  ;   containing  120  inhabitants. 

BELLSHILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Bothwell, 
Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  l|  mile  (E.) 
from  Bothwell ;  containing  1013  inhabitants.  It  lies 
on  the  great  road  from  Edinburgh  to  Glasgow,  and  the 
hill  from  which  it  is  named  attains  an  elevation  of  3/2 
feet  above  the  sea  :  the  population  partake  in  the  manu- 
factures of  the  parish.  There  is  a  post-oilice  ;  also  a 
Relief  meeting-house,  and  two  schools. 

BELLSTOWN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Methven, 
county  of  Perth  :   containing  25  inhabitants. 

BELLYCLONE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Maderty, 
county  of  Perth  ;  containing  69  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  a  little  east  of  the  road  from  Foulis  to  Auchter- 
arder,  and  on  the  south  side  of  the  small  river  Pow. 

BENBECULA,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  South 
Uist,  county  of  Inverness;  containing  2107  inhabitants. 
It  lies  between  the  islands  of  North  and  South  Uist,  from 
the  latter  of  which  it  is  separated  by  a  narrow  channel, 
nearly  dry  at  low  water  ;  and  is  a  low  island,  about 
nine  miles  in  length,  and  the  same  in  breadth,  with  a 
sandy  and  unproductive  soil,  except  on  its  western  side, 
which  is  rather  fertile.  The  coast  all  round  is  indented 
with  bays,  and  in  the  interior  are  numerous  fresh-water 
lakes  ;  a  great  quantity  of  sea- weed  is  annually  thrown 
on  the  shore,  from  which  kelp  is  made.  A  missionary 
here  has  a  stipend  of  £60,  with  an  allowance  of  £20 
more  in  lieu  of  a  manse.  There  were  formerly  remains 
of  a  nunnery,  the  stone  of  which  has  been  used  in  the 
erection  of  a  mansion. 

BENDOCHY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth, 
2  miles  (N.)  from  Cupar-Angus  ;  containing  783  inha- 
bitants. This  place,  previously  to  the  Reformation,  be- 
longed principally  to  the  monks  of  the  Cistercian  abbey 


BEND 


BENH 


at  Cupar- Angus ;  and  the  church  was,  till  that  time, 
the  parish  church  of  Cupar-Angus  ;  but  after  the  Dis- 
solution of  monasteries,  the  lands  were  sold,  and  the 
resident  tenants  generally  became  the  purchasers.  Many 
of  these  lands  still  retain  their  ancient  names,  as  Monk- 
Mire,  Monk-Callie,  and  the  Abbey  Mill  of  Blacklaw,  to 
which  the  adjacent  estates  were  bound  in  thirlage,  from 
which  the  proprietors  lately  obtained  their  exemption, 
by  the  payment  of  large  sums  of  money.  At  Monk- 
Callie,  formerly  existed  a  small  cell,  of  which  the 
cemetery  is  still  used  as  a  burying-ground  ;  and  there 
are  yet  to  be  traced  the  foundations  of  an  ancient 
chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Phink.  The  parish,  which  is 
situated  near  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  county,  is 
bounded  on  the  south-east  by  the  river  Isla,  and  the 
lower  lands  are  intersected  by  the  river  Ericht,  which 
divides  them  into  two  nearly  equal  parts.  The  Isla  and 
Ericht  have  both  their  source  in  the  Grampian  range  ; 
the  former,  after  a  south-easterly  course  of  several  miles, 
entering  Perthshire,  deviates  to  the  south-west,  and 
falls  into  the  Tay  at  Kinclaven  ;  and  the  Ericht,  which 
consists  of  the  united  streams  of  the  Blackwater  and 
the  Ardle,  forms  a  confluence  with  the  Isla.  The  south- 
eastern extremity  of  the  parish  is  twelve  miles  distant 
from  the  north-western  ;  but  the  surface  is  divided  into 
detached  portions  by  the  intervention  of  the  parishes 
of  Rattray  and  Blairgowrie,  which  separate  the  highland 
from  the  lowland  districts  ;  and  the  whole  area  is  not 
more  than  10,000  acres,  of  which  5145  are  arable,  2963 
meadow  and  pasture,  and  986  woodland  and  planta- 
tions. 

The  soil,  in  the  lower  lands,  is  rich,  and  the  system 
of  agriculture  in  a  highly  improved  state ;  the  chief 
crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  and  oats,  with  potatoes  and 
turnips.  The  introduction  of  bone-dust  for  manure,  at 
an  early  period,  has  tended  greatly  to  the  improvement 
of  the  lands ;  furrow-draining  has  been  extensively 
practised,  and  by  the  construction  of  embankments 
from  the  Isla  and  the  Ericht,  500  acres  of  most  valuable 
land  have  been  protected.  No  sheep  are  reared  in  the 
parish,  but  considerable  numbers  are  bought  in  October, 
and  fed  upon  the  turnips  ;  the  cattle  are  of  the  Tees- 
water  and  Angus  breeds  in  the  lower  parts  of  the  parish, 
and  in  the  uplands  chiefly  of  the  Highland  breed.  There 
are  salmon-fisheries  on  the  Isla  and  Ericht,  but  they  are 
not  rented  at  more  than  £20  per  annum.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £6951.  The  substratum 
of  the  lower  districts  abounds  with  freestone,  of  which 
several  quarries  are  in  operation  ;  and  there  is  a  bed 
of  clay-slate,  crossing  the  highland  portion  of  the 
parish,  which  might  be  profitably  wrought.  A  mill  was 
erected  at  Cupar- Grange,  by  Mr.  x\rcher,  about  the  year 
1840,  for  extracting  the  farina  of  potatoes,  and  the 
flour  thus  obtained  is  of  excellent  quality.  The  turn- 
pike-road from  Cupar- Angus  to  Blairgowrie  passes 
through  the  parish,  for  about  a  mile ;  and  an  omnibus 
runs  daily  to  the  terminus  of  the  railway  at  Cupar- 
Angus,  whence  trains  start  to  Dundee.  The  ecclesias- 
tical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  pres- 
bytery of  Meigle  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £251.  17.  6.,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £14  per  annum;  patron,  the  Crown. 
The  church  is  a  very  ancient  structure,  containing  a 
monument  to  Nicol  Campbell,  of  Keithock,  son  of 
Donald,  abbot  of  Cupar-Angus,  a  curiously  carved  pul- 
117 


pit,  and  various  antique  relics;  it  was  repaired  in  1843, 
and  has  400  sittings,  all  free.  The  parochial  school  is 
well  conducted  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4., 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about 
£10  per  annum.  The  late  Principal  Playfair,  of  St. 
Andrew's,  author  of  a  work  on  chronology,  was  a  native 
of  this  parish. — See  Persie. 

BENHOLME,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Kincar- 
dine, 3  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Bervie,  on  the  road  from 
Aberdeen  to  Dundee ;  containing,  with  the  village  of 
Johnshaven,  1648  inhabitants.  The  name  is  derived 
from  ben,  a  hill,  and  holme,  a  piece  of  low  level  ground, 
terms  which  are  descriptive  of  the  peculiar  features  of 
the  district.  Very  little  is  known  concerning  the  primi- 
tive history  of  this  locality ;  but  it  appears  that  the 
ancient  tower  of  Benholme,  a  strong  building  still  in  a 
state  of  good  preservation,  was  formerly  the  residence 
of  the  earls-marischal,  memorials  of  whom  remain  in 
inscriptions  upon  two  monuments,  transferred  from 
the  burying-aisle  of  the  old  church,  and  now  forming 
a  part  of  the  wall  of  the  present  edifice.  The  parish  is 
nearly  square  in  form,  and  contains  about  5400  acres, 
of  which  4000  are  under  cultivation,  325  in  wood,  and 
about  1060  uncultivated  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  south- 
east by  the  German  Ocean.  The  surface  is  considerably 
varied,  though  there  is  no  elevation  deserving  the  name 
of  a  hill,  except  that  of  Gourdon,  which  rises  400  feet 
at  the  boundary  between  Benholme  and  Bervie.  The 
shore  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  along  which  is  a 
plain  extending  the  whole  distance,  and  varying  in 
breadth  from  100  yards  to  a  quarter  of  a  mile  ;  beyond, 
is  an  acclivity  of  equul  extent,  the  surface  of  which  is 
furrowed  in  many  places  with  lofty  ridges  ;  and  from 
this  the  ground  gently  rises  till  it  reaches  the  high  lands 
of  Garvock,  on  the  western  boundary  of  the  parish. 
The  coast,  which  in  general  is  rough  and  eragged,  has 
neither  cliffs  nor  headlands,  and  is  altogether  barren 
and  uninteresting  in  its  aspect ;  it  is  indented  with  the 
small  bay  of  Johnshaven,  and  that  of  the  Haughs  of 
Nether  Benholme.  There  are  three  small  streams  in 
the  parish,  two  of  which  meet  a  little  below  the  church, 
at  the  corner  of  the  manse  garden,  and,  after  running 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  fall  into  the  German  Ocean. 
These  rivulets,  during  heavy  rains,  frequently  swell  to  a 
considerable  size,  and,  augmented  by  the  waters  from 
the  drainage  of  the  lands,  overflow  the  banks  of  the 
deep  and  narrow  hollows  through  which  they  flow,  and 
commit  great  havoc  upon  the  neighbouring  grounds. 

There  is  every  variety  of  soil,  from  soft  fine  loam  to 
wet  heavy  clay,  the  latter  of  which  predominates.  In 
some  places,  the  earth  is  light  and  sandy,  and  consists, 
to  a  very  considerable  extent,  of  a  deep  alluvial  deposit, 
intermixed  with  boulders  of  different  sizes,  some  of 
quartz,  some  of  granite,  others  of  greywacke,  and  a  few 
of  trap,  and  which  are  scattered  in  great  quantities  over 
the  fields.  Most  of  the  plantations  are  of  recent  growth, 
except  those  about  Benholme  and  Brotherton,  and  con- 
sist chiefly  of  fir,  ash,  beech,  and  oak ;  but  the  trees 
invariably  pine  and  become  stunted  in  growth  when 
within  the  range  of  the  sea-breeze,  those  only  exhibit- 
ing a  tolerably  healthy  appearance  which  are  further 
removed  and  under  some  protecting  cover.  The  state  of 
husbandry  is  excellent;  the  lands  are  well  drained,  and 
many  of  the  farms  are  provided  with  threshing-machines, 
more  than  half  of  which  are  driven  by  water  ;  the  farm- 


BERN 


BERT 


buildings  are  generally  good,  and  much  spirit  and 
enterprize  have  been  shown,  within  the  last  twenty- 
years,  in  recovering  desolate  wastes.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5501.  The  prevailing 
rock  is  the  old  red  sandstone  and  conglomerate,  the 
strata  of  which  are  cut  in  a  direction  from  east  to  west 
with  dykes  of  trap ;  these  rocks  are  diversified  by  almost 
every  variety  of  quality  and  intermixture,  and  in  the 
trap  formation  agates  have  been  found  in  different  parts 
of  the  parish.  There  is  a  considerable  quarry  of  coarse- 
grained sandstone.  The  seats  are,  the  mansion-house 
of  Benholme,  the  entrance  to  which,  in  the  direction  of 
Benholme  tower,  is  by  a  passage  formed  over  the  moat 
on  the  west  of  that  ancient  structure  ;  and  Brotherton 
House,  a  very  ancient  edifice,  with  a  terraced  garden. 
The  linen  manufacture  employs  about  230  hands  ;  and 
there  is  a  fishery,  the  produce  of  which,  consisting  of 
cod,  haddocks,  and  turbot,  with  a  few  small  fish,  is 
cured,  and  carried  inland  to  Laurencekirk,  Fordoun, 
&c,  and  sometimes  to  Montrose.  Herrings  are  also 
taken  ;  and  salmon  are  caught  off  the  coast,  with  toler- 
able success,  by  means  of  bag-nets,  the  shore  being  too 
rocky  to  allow  of  the  use  of  stake-nets.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of  For- 
doun and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns.  The  patronage 
belongs  to  the  family  of  Scott  of  Brotherton  and  Lord 
Cranstoun,  the  former  for  two  turns,  and  the  latter 
for  one,  and  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £232.  4., 
with  a  manse,  built  in  1S26,  and  a  glebe  of  six  acres, 
valued  at  £12.  10.  per  annum.  The  church,  built  in 
1S32,  is  a  neat  edifice,  in  good  repair,  accommodating 
?6S  persons  :  the  old  church,  which  was  taken  down  in 
1832,  was  furnished  with  a  font  for  holy  water,  an  in- 
cense altar,  and  a  niche  in  the  wall,  supposed  to  have 
been  a  receptacle  for  sacred  relics ;  and  there  are  seve- 
ral curious  inscriptions  on  the  stones  yet  preserved,  one 
of  which  points  to  this  edifice  as  the  burying-place  of 
the  Keith  family.  There  are  places  of  worship  belong- 
ing to  the  Free  Church  and  United  Associate  Synod. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  Latin  and 
the  usual  branches  of  education,  under  a  master  who 
has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  £22  fees.  A  parish 
library,  consisting  of  500  volumes,  and  a  juvenile  library 
with  400,  are  extensively  used  by  the  population ;  there 
are  also  two  friendly  societies,  one  of  which  has  a  stock 
of  £600,  and  bequests  amounting  to  £500  have  been  left 
to  the  poor,  who  annually  receive  the  interest. 

BENNETSTONE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Pol- 
mont,  county  of  Stirling;  containing  642  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  situated  a  few  miles  east  of  Falkirk.  In  a 
schoolroom  in  the  village,  divine  service  is  performed 
on  Sundays  by  various  ministers  of  dissenting  congre- 
gations. 

BENVIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Liff  and  Ben- 
tie,  county  of  Forfar,  5  miles  (W.  by  N.)  from  Dun- 
dee ;  containing  60  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  near  the 
borders  of  Perthshire,  which  bounds  the  parish  on  the 
east.  About  a  mile  from  the  present  church,  are  the 
ruins  of  the  old  church  of  Benvie  ;  and  near  the  village 
is  a  strong  chalybeate  spring. 

BERNERA,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Barra, 
county  of  Inverness  ;  containing  30  inhabitants.  It 
is  one  of  the  Hebrides,  and  most  southerly  of  the  whole 
range  of  these  islands,  and  is  about  one  mile  in  length, 
and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  breadth  ;  from  its  being 
118 


also  called  the  Bishop's  Isle,  it  seems  to  have  belonged 
to  the  Bishop  of  the  Isles,  and  it  is  said  to  have  been  a 
sanctuary  of  the  Druids.  The  soil  is  fertile,  and  in  the 
centre  is  a  fresh-water  lake,  diversified  with  small  islets  ; 
towards  the  south,  the  rocks  are  rugged  and  precipitous, 
and  on  this  side  is  a  point  of  land  called  Barra  Head. 

BERNERA,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Harris, 
island  of  Lewis,  county  of  Inverness;  containing  713 
inhabitants.  This  isle,  with  those  of  Pabbay,  Killigray, 
and  Ensay,  constituted  the  late  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
Bernera ;  it  is  situated  in  the  sound  of  Harris,  and  is 
about  four  miles  in  length,  and  one  and  a  half  in 
breadth,  and  comprises  3545  acres  of  arable,  and  1310 
of  pasture  land.  The  surface  is  rocky,  principally 
whinstone,  and  the  soil  mostly  of  a  sandy  quality,  in- 
terspersed with  patches  of  moor ;  the  tenants  have  a 
small  portion  of  ground  called  a  croft,  and  two  have 
each  about  330  acres.  The  manufacture  of  kelp  em- 
ploys all  the  population,  and  fish,  chiefly  ling,  cod,  and 
skate,  are  obtained  at  certain  seasons  :  fairs  for  black- 
cattle  and  horses  take  place  in  July  and  September. 
The  parish  was  under  the  presbytery  of  Uist  and  synod 
of  Glenelg,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown ;  the 
stipend  of  the  minister  is  £120,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £1  per  annum,  with  the  right  of  cutting 
peat :  the  church  was  erected  in  1838.  There  are  some 
remains  of  religious  houses  on  the  island. 

BERNERA,  GREAT  and  LITTLE,  two  islands,  in 
the  parish  of  Uig,  island  of  Lewis,  county  of  Ross  and 
Cromarty.  These  islands  are  situated  in  Loch  Roag, 
and  off  the  western  coast  of  the  island  of  Lewis  ;  the 
first  is  about  twelve  miles  long  and  four  broad,  and  the 
other  four  miles  in  length  and  one  in  breadth.  They 
are  two  of  a  large  group  of  islands  in  an  arm  of  the  sea 
which  here  indents  the  main  land  of  Lewis.  Great 
Bernera  abounds  with  lakes,  and  has  a  considerable 
portion  of  fertile  land  ;  it  contains  a  tolerably  entire 
circle  of  large  upright  stones,  only  paralleled  by  those 
of  Stonehenge  and  Stenhouse,  and  supposed  to  be  of 
Druidic  origin.  Little  Bernera,  in  which  is  a  fresh-water 
lake,  is  covered  with  pasture. 

BERRIEDALE,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Latheron,  county  of  Caithness,  27  miles 
(S.  E.)  from  Wick;  containing  1750  inhabitants.  This 
parish,  which  is  on  the  coast,  between  the  Ord  of 
Caithness  and  the  harbour  of  Dunbeath,  was  separated 
from  Latheron  in  1S33.  The  church,  which  is  close  to 
the  sea-shore,  was  erected  by  government,  in  1826,  at 
an  expense  of  £750 ;  it  is  a  neat  structure,  containing 
312  sittings;  the  minister  has  a  stipend  of  £120,  paid 
by  government,  with  a  manse  and  small  glebe  provided 
by  the  late,  and  continued  by  the  present,  Mr.  Home, 
proprietor  of  Langwell.  In  the  vicinity  is  a  place  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  A  parochial 
school  in  connexion  with  this  parish,  has  been  built  at 
Dunbeath,  by  William  Sinclair,  Esq.,  of  Freswick,  at  an 
expense  of  £300  ;  and  there  are  also  a  school  supported 
by  the  General  Assembly,  and  a  Sabbath  school.  The 
place  gives  the  title  of  Baron  to  the  Earl  of  Caith- 
ness. 

BERTRAM-SHOTTS,  a  parish,  in  the  Middle  ward 
of  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  including  the  villages  of 
Harthill,  Omoa-New-Town,  Sallysburgh,  and  Shotts- 
Iron-Works;  and  containing  3861  inhabitants,  of  whom 
751  are  in  the  village  of  Shotts-Iron- Works,  5  miles  (E. 


BERT 


BERT 


by  S.)  from  Holytown.  This  place  is  generally  sup- 
posed to  have  derived  its  name  from  a  famous  robber 
called  Bartram  de  Shotts,  who,  in  ancient  times,  sig- 
nalized himself  by  his  depredations,  and  was  eventually 
killed  near  the  site  of  the  present  church.  The  whole 
of  this  extensive  parish,  except  Blair-mueks  and  Mur- 
dostown,  belonged  to  the  Hamilton  family,  from  the 
year  1378  to  1630,  when  the  Marquess  of  Hamilton  dis- 
posed of  the  larger  part  of  the  barony.  Not  far  from 
the  mansion  of  Murdostown  formerly  stood  the  abbey  of 
St.  Bertram  ;  but  no  portion  of  this  ancient  establish- 
ment is  now  to  be  seen.  The  parish,  which  was  once 
part  of  that  of  Bothwell,  is  nearly  a  parallelogram  in 
form,  and  is  ten  miles  long,  and  eight  broad,  and  con- 
tains 25,434  acres  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
North  Calder,  which  separates  it  from  East  Monkland 
and  Torphichen,  and  on  the  south,  by  the  South  Calder, 
which  divides  it  from  the  parish  of  Cambusnethan. 
The  surface  is  tolerably  level  throughout,  except  in  the 
middle  quarter,  where  it  is  diversified  by  elevations, 
among  which  are,  the  Hirst,  the  Tilling,  and  the  Cant 
hills.  The  climate  is  more  than  ordinarily  salubrious, 
which  induced  the  celebrated  Dr.  Cullen,  who  com- 
menced practice  in  the  parish,  to  say,  that  Bertram- 
Shotts  was  the  Montpelier  of  Scotland.  The  rivers 
connected  with  the  district  are  the  North  and  South 
Calder,  with  a  few  small  burns  not  of  sufficient  import- 
ance to  demand  notice  ;  and  there  is  a  loch  called  the 
Lily,  in  which  are  found  common  trout  and  an  excellent 
species  of  red  char. 

The  soil  is  for  the  most  part  clayey,  except  on  the 
banks  of  the  rivers,  where  the  loamy  kind  prevails ; 
nearly  two-thirds  of  the  land  are  arable,  and  the  rest, 
with  the  exception  of  a  small  proportion  of  wood  and 
common,  is  unsheltered  moor,  annually  covered  with 
the  blossom  of  the  heather-bell.  About  1000  acres  are 
under  wood,  consisting  of  Scotch  fir,  spruce,  and  larch, 
all  which  thrive  well  :  formerly  the  Scotch  fir  was  the 
only  kind  attended  to.  The  cows  are  in  great  repute  for 
their  superior  stock,  the  improvement  of  which  has 
been  greatly  promoted  by  the  establishment  of  an  agri- 
cultural society ;  and  the  horses,  which  are  of  the 
Clydesdale  breed,  are  famed  for  their  strength  and  sym- 
metry. Every  kind  of  farming-stock  has  been  greatly 
improved  within  the  last  thirty  years  ;  and  much  waste 
land  has  been  reclaimed  by  means  of  draining  and  dig- 
ging, for  which  two  prizes,  some  time  since,  were 
awarded  by  the  Highland  Society  of  Scotland,  to  two 
gentlemen  in  the  parish.  The  state  of  the  farm-houses, 
however,  is  generally  below  that  of  buildings  of  this 
class  in  parishes  where  agricultural  improvement  has 
made  much  progress,  although  they  are  far  better  than 
formerly,  and  are  undergoing  a  gradual  change.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £19,910.  The 
parish  forms  a  portion  of  the  great  coalfield  of  Lanark- 
shire, and  its  carboniferous  and  mineralogical  produc- 
tions are  extensive  and  various,  the  two  grand  general 
divisions  of  its  subterraneous  contents  being  the  igneous 
and  sedimentary  rocks.  The  northern  half  of  the  land 
consists  almost  entirely  of  the  trap,  or  common  green- 
stone ;  the  other  half  is  the  coal-bed,  which  consists  of 
the  splint  coal,  the  parrot  or  cannel  coal,  the  smithy 
coal,  and  the  Shotts-Iron-Works  first  and  second  coal. 
In  some  parts,  is  a  very  fine  ironstone,  above  the  coal, 
and  in  others,  a  considerable  quantity  of  limestone, 
119 


lying  at  a  great  depth  beneath  the  coal,  with  a  succes- 
sion of  147  different  strata  between  them.  There  is  an 
abundant  supply  of  fire-clay  of  various  kinds,  in  the 
carboniferous  division  of  the  parish,  lying  over  the  coal, 
and  large  quantities  of  it  are  used,  for  making  bricks  for 
blast  and  air  furnaces ;  one  of  the  strata  has  been 
wrought  for  a  considerable  period,  and  is  several  feet  in 
thickness,  though  the  portion  which  is  worked,  in  the 
middle  of  the  stratum,  is  not  more  than  about  three  feet 
deep. 

Among  the  principal  residences  are,  Murdostown 
House,  belonging  to  Sir  T.  Inglis  Cochrane  ;  Easter  Mof- 
fat, a  handsome  modern  edifice  in  the  Elizabethan  style  ; 
Craighead  House,  Fortissat,  and  Shotts  House.  Sub- 
post-offices  have  been  established  at  the  villages  of 
Sallysburgh  and  Shotts-Works,  and  there  are  annual 
fairs,  chiefly  for  the  sale  of  horses  and  cattle,  on  the 
third  Tuesday  in  June  and  November  (O.  S.),  both  of 
ancient  date,  being  held  by  a  warrant  granted  by  James 
VII.,  in  1685,  to  the  Duke  of  Hamilton.  The  parish 
contains  two  iron-works,  of  which  one,  in  the  south- 
eastern quarter,  designated  Shotts  works,  is  not  only 
adapted  for  the  smelting  of  iron-ore,  for  which  there 
are  three  furnaces,  but  has  connected  with  it  an 
extensive  foundry,  and  a  large  establishment  where 
steam-engines  of  a  superior  kind  for  both  land  and 
water  are  constructed.  At  the  other  establishment, 
called  the  Omoa  iron-works,  situated  in  the  south-west 
part  of  the  parish,  three  furnaces  are  also  in  effective 
operation.  These  works,  which  together  employ  about 
1500  persons,  have  contributed  to  a  large  increase  in  the 
population ;  and  by  the  circulation  of  several  hundreds  of 
pounds  weekl}T,  in  the  form  of  wages,  great  changes  and 
improvements  have  taken  place  in  the  general  appear- 
ance of  the  neighbourhood,  particularly  through  the 
formation  of  roads  and  the  cultivation  of  the  land.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of 
Hamilton  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  the  patron- 
age belongs  to  the  Duke  of  Hamilton,  and  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £'267.  11.,  with  a  substantial  and  commodious 
manse,  built  in  1S38,  and  a  glebe  of  nearly  44  acres,  in 
which  are  two  seams  of  coal.  The  church,  the  position 
of  which  is  central,  and  on  an  elevated  site,  was  built 
in  1S20,  and  has  1200  free  sittings.  There  is  a  place  of 
worship  belonging  to  the  Associate  Synod  ;  also  a  paro- 
chial school,  in  which  the  classics  are  taught,  with  the 
usual  branches  of  education,  and  of  which  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  about  £2S  fees,  and  a  house. 
Belonging  to  the  Shotts  ironworks,  is  also  a  school; 
another,  called  Murdostown  school,  has  an  endowment  of 
£19  per  annum,  assigned  by  Sir  Thomas  Inglis  ;  Hart- 
hill  school  was  endowed  by  the  late  James  Wilson,  Esq., 
with  £500  ;  and  another  is  supported  by  Mrs.  Robert 
Haldane.  There  are  two  circulating  libraries,  in  one  of 
which,  at  the  Shotts  works,  the  collection  of  books  is 
very  superior ;  and  the  poor  have  the  benefit  of  a  be- 
quest of  £500,  left  by  Thomas  Mitchell,  a  native  of  the 
place.  Gavin  Hamilton,  the  historical  painter;  John 
Miller,  professor  of  law  in  the  university  of  Glasgow, 
well  known  to  the  public  by  several  learned  publica 
tions,  and  who  was  buried  at  Blantyre,  not  far  from 
Shotts ;  and  Dr.  Matthew  Baillie,  physician  to  George 
III.,  and  brother  of  Joanna  Baillie,  the  authoress,  were 
all  natives  of  the  parish.  The  Rev.  James  Baillie,  father 
of  the  doctor,  was  minister  of  Shotts. 


B  E  R  V 


BERV 


Burgh  Seal. 


BERVIE,  or  INVER- 
Chsv,  BERVIE,  a  royal  burgh,  and 
_>iMg/  parish,  in  the  county  of  Kin- 
^j£%ql  cardine,  S2|  miles  (N.  N. 
|S«;i/  E.)  from  Edinburgh  ;  con- 
«|Jfetaining,  with  the  village  of 
,  '.fe|  Gourdon,  1342  inhabitants. 
'This  place  is  named  from 
the  small  river  Bervie,  on 
its  north-eastern  boundary, 
which  stream  is  so  called 
from  an  ancient  British  word 
signifying  a  boiling  or  ebulli- 
tion, a  word  exactly  corresponding  to  the  peculiar 
nature  of  the  water.  The  town  appears  to  have  been, 
in  early  times,  of  importance,  and  to  have  attracted 
some  attention.  The  fine  old  castle  of  Hallgreen,  which 
is  romantically  situated  on  the  shore,  a  little  to  the 
south  of  the  town,  and  has  been  recently  completely 
repaired  with  due  attention  to  its  original  style,  has  a 
date  on  the  west  front,  which,  though  partially  effaced, 
is  traced  to  the  year  13?6.  The  walls  of  this  building 
are  massive,  and  perforated  with  arrows,  and  it  seems 
to  have  been  formerly  surrounded  by  a  moat,  with  a 
drawbridge  and  a  portcullis  near  the  outer  gate  of  the 
court.  Above  one  of  the  doors  in  the  court,  the  date 
of  16S7,  with  the  initials  of  the  proprietor  of  that  period, 
is  still  visible,  and  in  one  of  the  principal  rooms,  on 
the  stucco-ceiling,  is  a  coat  of  arms,  with  the  motto 
spero  mtliora,  and  the  date  1683  ;  on  the  old  wainscots, 
are  some  Dutch  paintings,  consisting  of  two  landscapes 
and  a  flower-piece.  A  spacious  mansion,  indicating,  as 
well  as  the  castle,  the  ancient  occupation  of  the 
locality  by  important  personages,  and  which  is  said  to 
have  belonged  originally  to  the  marischals,  and  was 
recently  in  the  possession  of  the  noble  family  of  Arbuth- 
nott,  was  removed  about  twenty  years  since,  to  make 
way  for  improvements  of  building  and  agriculture  ;  and 
several  other  old  buildings  are  still  pointed  out  as 
the  town  residences  of  neighbouring  lairds.  There  was 
also,  in  former  times,  a  religious  establishment  of  White 
friars ;  and  the  discovery  of  some  graves,  in  the  con- 
struction of  a  turnpike-road  near  a  place  called  Friar's 
Dubbs,  is  supposed  to  mark  the  spot  where  this  mo- 
nastic order  had  a  burying-ground.  At  the  time  of  the 
Rebellion  in  1745,  the  troops  of  the  Duke  of  Cumber- 
land, suspecting  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  neighbouring 
parish  of  Benholme  had  transported  provisions,  by 
means  of  the  Bervie  boats,  for  the  use  of  the  Pre- 
tender's troops  who  were  passing  by  sea,  began  to 
destroy  and  plunder  the  village  of  Johnshaven,  in  Ben- 
holme  parish,  and  to  burn  the  boats  of  the  Bervie 
fishermen.  The  minister  of  Bervie,  Mr.  Dow,  however, 
upon  hearing  of  this,  repaired  to  the  bridge  of  Ben- 
holme,  three  miles  distant,  where  he  met  the  army, 
headed  by  the  royal  suite,  and  so  satisfied  the  duke  of 
the  loyalty  of  his  parishioners,  that  he  went  with  the 
minister  to  his  house,  and  became  his  guest  for  the 
night.  A  singular  occurrence  took  place  here  in  the 
year  1S0O,  when  a  French  privateer  made  its  appearance 
off  the  coast,  and  pursued  several  merchant  vessels, 
which  were  compelled  to  take  shelter  in  the  port  at 
Gourdon.  A  small  body  of  volunteers  belonging  to  the 
place  were  immediately  assembled,  and  marched  down 
to  the  beach  in  two  divisions,  to  face  the  enemy ;  and 
120 


one  party,  stationed  among  the  rocks  on  the  shore, 
exchanged  several  rounds  of  musquetry  with  the  guns 
of  the  sloop,  upon  which  the  crew,  suspecting  that  a 
battery  was  about  to  be  opened  upon  them  by  the  other 
division,  who  had  proceeded  in  the  direction  of  the  old 
castle  of  Hallgreen,  crowded  sail  and  made  off. 

The  town  is  situated  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
parish,  near  the  small  bay  of  Bervie,  on  the  shore  of 
the  North  Sea  ;  the  approach  on  the  north-east,  is  by 
an  elegant  bridge  over  the  river  Bervie,  of  one  arch,  the 
height  of  which  from  the  river  is  about  eighty  feet.  A 
meal  and  barley  mill  stands  on  the  haugh  below  the 
bridge,  and  near  it  a  small  spinning-mill  ;  on  the  upper 
side  of  the  bridge,  is  a  spinning-mill  of  three  stories, 
the  first  that  was  erected  in  Scotland  for  yarn  and 
thread.  At  the  north  entrance  to  the  burgh,  stands 
the  head  inn,  commanding  a  fine  viewr  of  the  scenery 
above  the  bridge,  the  remote  distance  being  adorned 
with  the  old  castle  of  Allardice,  with  its  trees  and 
shrubbery,  standing  in  the  parish  of  Arbuthnott.  Water 
of  the  best  description,  from  springs  in  the  parish,  is 
conveyed  into  the  town  by  leaden  pipes,  and  deposited 
in  reservoirs  of  metal,  for  general  use.  The  chief 
manufacture  is  of  the  linens  usually  called  duck  and 
dowlas,  which  is  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent, 
through  the  medium  of  agents,  who  superintend  for 
merchants  in  Aberdeen,  Dundee,  and  Arbroath  ;  a  kelp 
manufactory  existed  for  some  time,  but,  like  most 
others  of  the  same  description,  was  given  up  when  the 
duty  was  taken  off  foreign  barilla.  The  small  port  and 
fishing  village  of  Gourdon,  upwards  of  a  mile  distant, 
but  within  the  parish,  is  the  place  where  vessels  trade, 
which,  however,  are  not  chartered  here,  but  have  to 
clear  out  at  the  custom-house  in  Montrose:  two  ship- 
ping companies  are  connected  with  the  place,  and  vessels 
frequently  come  in  with  coal,  lime,  pavement,  wood, 
tiles,  and  slates,  and  sometimes  Orkney  and  Shetland 
cattle  and  ponies,  and  take,  in  return,  ballast  or  grain, 
which  latter  is  the  only  article  exported  from  Gourdon. 
The  principal  fisheries  consist  of  those  of  salmon,  cod 
and  ling,  and  haddock ;  the  first  of  these  is  carried 
on  in  the  bay,  commencing  on  the  2nd  of  February, 
and  ending  on  the  14th  of  September,  and  the  fish 
taken  is  considered  of  superior  quality.  The  cod  and 
ling  fishery  begins  on  the  1st  of  October,  and  ends  on 
July  15th,  and  about  300  cwt.  are  shipped  every  year, 
at  Montrose,  for  the  London  market ;  the  haddocks 
which  are  caught  are  dried  and  smoked,  and  consigned 
by  a  company  established  here,  to  dealers  in  Glas- 
gow and  London,  with  whom  an  extensive  traffic  is 
maintained.  Six  boats  are  also  engaged  in  a  turbot 
and  skate  fishery,  which  begins  on  the  1st  of  May,  and 
ends  on  the  15th  of  July  :  a  herring-fishery  formerly 
carried  on,  was  some  time  since  broken  up,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  shore  being  deserted  by  the  fish.  Crabs 
and  lobsters  are  taken  in  great  numbers,  among  the 
rocks  near  the  bay,  and  there  is  a  good  supply  of  shrimps 
on  the  sands.  A  market  for  corn  was  established  a 
few  years  ago,  which  commences  at  the  close  of  har- 
vest, and  is  open  on  every  Wednesday  afterwards  for 
six  months  ;  it  is  in  a  very  flourishing  state,  being 
frequented  by  corn-merchants  from  Montrose,  Brechin, 
and  Stonehaven,  and  by  farmers  and  millers  from  all 
the  neighbouring  parishes.  About  40,000  quarters  of 
grain  are  purchased  yearly,  and  the  greater  part  of  it 


BERV 


B  E  II  V 


shipped  at  Gourdon.  Two  fairs  have  long  been  held 
annually  for  the  sale  of  cattle,  the  first  on  the  Thursday 
before  the  19th  of  May,  and  the  other  on  the  Thursday 
before  the  19th  of  September  ;  and  in  1834,  three  addi- 
tional markets  were  established,  for  the  hiring  of  ser- 
vants, and  for  the  sale  of  cattle.  That  for  cattle  in 
general,  and  for  hiring  servants,  is  on  the  Wednesday 
before  the  22nd  of  November,  and  those  for  fat  and 
other  cattle  are  on  the  Wednesday  before  Christmas 
(O.  S.),  and  the  Wednesday  before  the  13th  of  February. 
The  mail  from  Aberdeen  to  Edinburgh,  and  a  coach 
from  Aberdeen  to  Perth,  travel  on  the  turnpike-road 
that  runs  directly  across  the  parish,  and  afford  con- 
siderable facility  of  intercourse. 

Bervie  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh  in  1362,  by 
charter  from  King  David  II.,  who,  having  been  forced 
by  stress  of  weather  to  land  on  a  rock  in  the  parish  of 
Kinneff,  still  called  Craig-David,  was  received  by  the  inha- 
bitants of  Bervie  with  so  much  kindness  and  hospitality, 
that  he  raised  the  town  to  the  dignity  of  a  royal  burgh, 
as  a  mark  of  his  gratitude  and  esteem.  In  the  year 
1595,  James  VI.  renewed  the  charter,  and  confirmed 
the  privileges  before  granted.  The  public  property  is 
distinctly  marked  out  by  the  charter,  comprehending 
nearly  the  whole  extent  of  the  parish,  but  the  lands 
now  belonging  to  the  town,  consist  only  of  a  piece  of 
moor,  a  few  acres  of  haugh  ground,  and  a  range  of  braes 
about  a  mile  in  extent;  the  revenue  is  about  £120  a 
year.  The  burgh  is  governed  by  a  provost,  three  bailies, 
a  dean  of  guild,  nine  councillors,  a  treasurer,  and  a 
clerk ;  and,  with  Montrose,  Brechin,  Arbroath,  and 
Forfar,  returns  a  member  to  parliament.  The  town- 
hall  is  an  edifice  of  two  stories,  the  upper  of  which  con- 
sists of  a  hall  and  council-room,  and  the  lower  contains 
the  flesh  and  meal  market,  with  a  small  arched  vault 
for  the  confinement  of  prisoners,  which,  however,  is 
very  deficient  as  a  place  of  security  ;  on  the  top  of  the 
building,  is  a  handsome  belfry,  with  a  bell  which  is 
rung  four  times  every  day.  Near  the  town-hall,  is  a 
market-cross  of  great  antiquity,  formed  of  a  column  of 
stone  which  measures  about  fourteen  feet  high,  with  a 
ball  on  the  summit,  and  a  flight  of  steps  surrounding 
the  base. 

The  parish,  which  was  formerly  joined  to  that  of 
Kinneff,  but  was  separated  from  it  about  the  time  of  the 
Reformation,  is  of  quadrilateral  figure,  and  contains 
about  1800  acres,  of  which  1222  are  under  cultivation, 
about  70  planted,  and  500  waste.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
south-east  by  the  German  Ocean,  and  embraces  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  of  coast,  which,  with  the  exception  of 
the  part  near  the  town,  is  covered  with  rocks,  mostly 
hidden  at  high  water.  The  craig,  where  King  David 
landed,  also  called  Bervie  Brow,  bordering  on  the  parish, 
is  a  conspicuous  land-mark  for  mariners  ;  and  Gourdon 
Hill,  within  the  parish,  is  also  seen  at  a  great  distance. 
The  land  in  the  interior  is  considerably  diversified  in  its 
surface,  rising  in  a  gradual  manner  from  east  to  west, 
and  being  marked  by  two  ranges  of  hills,  parallel  to 
each  other.  The  ground  is  flat  near  the  southern  and 
eastern  boundaries,  but  the  vicinity  of  the  latter  is  orna- 
mented with  a  small  fertile  valley,  through  which  the 
water  of  Bervie,  well-stocked  with  trout,  runs  to  the 
sea,  and  on  each  side  of  which  the  land  is  elevated  and 
varied.  The  only  streams  are,  the  Bervie,  which  rises 
in  the  Grampians,  and  falls  into  the  sea  at  the  eastern 
Vol.  I.— 121 


extremity  of  the  district  ;  and  the  burn  of  Peattie, 
which  runs  from  the  north-east  boundary,  into  the 
Bervie,  and,  though  small,  is  of  very  considerable  utility 
to  those  tenants  through  whose  farms  it  pursues  its 
course. 

The  soil  in  the  lower  lands  is  a  deep  fertile  loam, 
resting  on  a  gravelly  subsoil  ;  the  haugh  lands  adjoining 
the  sea  consist  of  black  earth,  mixed  with  large  quanti- 
ties of  pebbles,  upon  which  they  are  said  to  be  dependent 
for  their  great  fertility.  In  the  upper  district  of  the 
parish,  some  of  the  land  is  a  strong  soil,  upon  a  clay 
bottom  ;  but  upon  the  surface  in  the  highest  part,  where 
it  reaches  an  elevation  of  about  400  feet,  very  little  earth 
is  to  be  seen,  the  outside  chiefly  consisting  of  naked 
rock.  All  kinds  of  corn  and  green  crops  are  produced, 
of  excellent  quality ;  the  plantations  are  flourishing, 
though  of  recent  growth,  and  comprise  every  variety  of 
trees  peculiar  to  the  country.  The  system  of  husbandry 
is  of  the  most  approved  kind,  and  the  highest  state  of 
cultivation  is  indicated  by  the  abundance  and  quality  of 
the  produce.  Improvements,  within  the  last  few  years, 
have  been  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent,  especially 
in  draining  and  reclaiming  waste  Isnd,  and  the  farm- 
houses and  offices,  which  are  roofed  with  slate  or  tiles, 
are  in  good  condition.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £3344.  The  predominating  rock  is  sandstone, 
which,  in  some  places,  is  marked  by  veins  of  trap,  be- 
tween one  and  two  feet  in  thickness.  Boulders  of  quartz, 
granite,  mica-slate,  gneiss,  &c,  are  met  with  on  the 
shore,  and  near  the  village  of  Gourdon  the  beach  con- 
sists of  masses  of  small  pebbles  of  jasper,  porphyry, 
slate,  and  agate,  of  the  last  of  which  beautiful  specimens 
are  sometimes  found  among  the  loose  soil  on  the  higher 
grounds,  as  well  as  on  the  beach.  Several  quarries  of 
sandstone  are  wrought  in  the  parish,  supplying  the  ex- 
cellent material  from  which  the  church  was  constructed, 
as  well  as  most  of  the  new  buildings  in  this  and  the 
neighbouring    parishes. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish  of  Bervie  are 
directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Fordoun  and  synod  of 
Angus  and  Mearns ;  the  patronage  belongs  to  the 
Crown,  and  the  minister's  stipend  is  £141.  12.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  worth  £18  per  annum.  The  church, 
which  was  opened  on  the  1st  of  January,  1S37,  and 
contains  900  sittings,  is  an  elegant  structure,  with  a 
square  tower  more  than  100  feet  in  height,  ornamented 
with  carved  minarets.  The  site,  which  is  gently  elevated, 
at  a  small  distance  from  the  street,  is  highly  advanta- 
geous, and  the  main  entrance  and  imposing  outer  gate 
heighten  the  general  effect  of  an  object  that  has  greatly 
contributed  to  improve  the  aspect  of  the  town.  There 
are  places  of  worship  belonging  to  the  Free  Church  and 
Independents  ;  also  a  parochial  school,  in  which  the 
classics,  mathematics,  and  the  usual  branches  of  educa- 
tion are  taught,  and  of  which  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£29.  18.  9.,  with  an  allowance  of  £2.  2.  9.  in  lieu  of  a 
garden,  and  between  £15  and  £20  a  year  fees.  A  bequest 
of  £500  was  left  to  the  poor,  who  receive  the  interest, 
by  the  late  James  Fai-quhar,  Esq.,  of  Hallgreen.  The 
burgh  confers  the  title  of  Baron  on  Lord  Arbuthnott, 
whose  ancestor,  Sir  Robert  Arbuthnott,  was  knighted 
for  his  faithful  adhesion  to  the  fortunes  of  Charles  I., 
and  was  afterwards  raised  to  the  peerage  by  the  style  of 
Baron  Inverbervie  and  Viscount  Arbuthnott,  Nov.  16, 
1641  :   he  died  in  the  year  1655. 

R 


BERW 


BERW 


Burgh  Seal. 


BERWICK,  NORTH,  a 
burgh,  market-town,  and 
parish,  in  the  county  of  Had- 
IDIngton,  10  miles  (N.  byE.) 
from  Haddington,  and  23 
(N.  E.  by  E.)  from  Edin- 
|  burgh  ;  containing  1708  in- 
habitants, of  whom  1028  are 
in  the  burgh.  This  place 
derives  its  name  from  its 
situation  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Frith  of  Forth  ;  and  though 
its  origin  is  involved  in  ob- 
scurity, the  manor  appears  to  have  belonged  to  the 
earls  of  Fife,  in  whose  possession  it  remained  till  near 
the  close  of  the  fourteenth  century,  and  of  whom  Dun- 
can, who  died  in  the  year  1154,  founded  a  convent  here, 
for  sisters  of  the  Cistercian  order.  This  establishment 
was  amply  endowed  by  the  founder,  and  by  numerous 
benefactors,  with  lands  in  the  counties  of  Berwick,  Rox- 
burgh, Edinburgh,  and  West  Lothian;  and  continued 
to  flourish  till  the  Reformation,  when  the  site  and 
revenues  were  conferred  on  Sir  Alexander  Home,  of 
North  Berwick,  by  James  VI.  After  the  death  of  Isa- 
bel, the  last  Countess  of  Fife,  the  manor  passed  into  the 
possession  of  William,  Earl  of  Douglas,  who,  in  1373, 
obtained  from  Robert  II.  a  charter  constituting  this 
place  a  royal  burgh,  with  the  privileges  of  a  market  and 
port,  with  custom-house  and  other  advantages.  In 
1455,  the  manor  became  forfeited  to  the  crown,  on  the 
attainder  of  James,  Earl  of  Douglas,  but  was  restored 
by  James  III.  to  Archibald,  Earl  of  Angus,  the  heir 
male  of  the  Douglas  family,  and  erected  into  a  free 
barony,  in  his  favour.  After  the  grant  of  the  monastery 
and  part  of  its  lands  to  Sir  Alexander  Home,  by  James 
VI.,  the  barony,  on  the  failure  of  that  family,  passed 
into  other  hands,  and  in  1640,  by  act  of  parliament,  was 
confirmed  to  Sir  William  Dick,  from  whom  it  passed  to 
Sir  Hew  Dalrymple,  lord  president  of  the  court  of 
session,  and  ancestor  of  the  present  proprietor. 

The  town  is  advantageously  situated  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  near  its  influx  into  the  sea, 
and  consists  principally  of  two  streets;  one  of  these  is 
of  considerable  length,  extending  from  east  to  west,  and 
is  intersected,  near  its  eastern  extremity,  by  the  other,  a 
shorter  street,  which  is  continued  to  the  harbour.  The 
houses  in  the  first  are  irregularly  built,  and  many  of 
them  of  antique  appearance,  and  those  in  the  other 
street  are  of  a  superior  class,  and  mostly  inhabited  by 
the  gentry  and  more  opulent  families ;  on  both  sides  of 
the  latter  street,  are  rows  of  trees,  giving  it  a  pleasant 
and  cheerful  appearance,  and  the  scenery  surrounding 
the  town  combines  many  interesting  and  picturesque 
features.  A  subscription  library  has  been  established, 
which  is  well  supported,  and  contains  a  good  collection  ; 
and  a  branch  of  the  East  Lothian  Itinerating  Library  is 
also  stationed  here.  The  waste  or  common  lands  on 
the  west  of  the  town,  are  much  frequented  by  the  mem- 
bers of  a  golf  club,  who  hold  meetings  for  the  celebra- 
tion of  that  game,  which  is  also  the  favourite  amusement 
of  the  inhabitants.  The  only  manufactory  is  a  foundry 
for  the  construction  of  steam-engines,  machines  for 
making  tiles  for  draining,  and  other  articles.  The 
trade  of  the  port  consists  mainly  in  the  exportation  of 
grain,  lime,  and  agricultural  produce,  chiefly  for  the 
122 


Newcastle  and  London  markets  ;  and  the  importation 
of  coal,  rape,  and  oil-cake,  and  crushed  bones  for 
manure.  There  are  nine  vessels  belonging  to  the  port, 
of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  568  tons,  of  which  four 
are  employed  in  the  foreign,  and  the  rest  in  the  coasting 
trade  ;  the  exportation  of  grain  and  lime  has  materially 
decreased,  but  that  of  potatoes  very  much  increased, 
within  the  last  few  years.  The  harbour  is  spacious  and 
secure ;  it  is  dry  at  low  water,  but  is  commodious, 
and  considerable  sums  have  been  expended  on  its 
improvement.  The  fishing  is  conducted  on  a  limited 
scale.  The  market  is  chiefly  for  the  supply  of  the 
town  and  neighbourhood ;  fairs  are  held  in  June  and 
November,  and  facility  of  communication  with  the  ad- 
jacent towns  is  maintained  by  good  roads.  The 
inhabitants  obtained  their  earliest  charter  in  the 
reign  of  Robert  II.,  which  was  confirmed  in  156S,  by 
James  VI. ;  and  the  government  of  the  burgh  is  vested 
in  two  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  nine  councillors,  elected 
according  to  the  provisions  of  the  act  of  the  3rd  and 
4th  of  William  IV.  The  magistrates  hold  no  regular 
courts,  but  act  as  justices  of  the  peace  within  the 
royalty  of  the  burgh  ;  all  criminal  jurisdiction  is  re- 
ferred to  the  procurator-fiscal  and  sheriff  of  the  county, 
and  petty  misdemeanours  are  punished  by  temporary 
confinement;  a  town  officer  is  appointed  by  the  magi- 
strates, who  also  choose  a  town-clerk,  and  a  shore- 
master.  The  town-hall  is  a  commodious  building,  and 
there  is  a  small  prison.  Since  the  Union,  the  burgh  has 
united  with  those  of  Haddington,  Dunbar,  Lauder, 
and  Jedburgh,  in  returning  a  member  to  the  imperial 
parliament ;  and  by  the  act  of  the  2nd  and  3rd  of 
William  IV.,  the  right  of  election,  previously  vested  in 
the  corporation  and  burgesses,  was  extended  to  the  £10 
householders,  resident  within  the  parliamentary  limits 
of  the  burgh.     The  bailies  are  the  returning  officers. 

The  surface  of  the  parish  is  greatly  varied  ;  a  range 
of  rocks  of  various  hues  intersects  it  from  east  to  west, 
presenting  in  some  parts  a  barren  and  rugged  aspect, 
and  in  others  being  clothed  with  wood.  About  half  a 
mile  south  of  the  town  is  a  hill  of  conical  form,  called 
North  Berwick  Law,  crowning  the  summit  of  a  gently 
sloping  eminence,  and  rising  to  an  elevation  of  940  feet 
above  the  sea  ;  it  was  occupied  as  a  signal  station  during 
the  war,  and  the  remains  of  the  buildings,  which  were 
suffered  to  fall  to  decay,  have  the  picturesque  effect  of 
an  ancient  ruin.  The  hill  is  wooded  near  its  base, 
and  the  other  parts  of  its  surface,  comprising  an  area 
of  nearly  seventy  acres,  afford  pasturage  for  sheep  ;  the 
views  from  it  are  extensive,  and  strikingly  diversified. 
In  the  mouth  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  from  the  shore,  is  the  well  known  rock  called 
the  Bass,  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea,  in  a  circular 
form,  nearly  a  mile  in  circumference,  to  a  height  of 
420  feet;  it  is  of  very  rugged  aspect,  extremely  pre- 
cipitous on  the  north  side,  and  on  the  south  more 
resembling  a  cone  in  form,  and  accessible  only  on  the 
south-east,  where  are  two  landing-places  :  about  half 
way  up  the  steep,  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  chapel. 
The  rock  is  perforated,  from  the  north-west  to  the 
south-east,  by  a  cavern,  which  is  dry  at  full  tide ;  and 
on  the  side  commanding  the  landing-place,  are  the 
remains  of  an  old  fortress,  and  of  the  dungeons  for- 
merly used  for  state  prisoners,  for  which  purpose  it 
was  purchased  from  Sir  Andrew  Ramsay,  in  1671.     Its 


BERW 


BERW 


surface  is  estimated  at  seven  acres,  and  it  forms  an 
object  both  of  scenic  and  historical  interest ;  it  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  the  retreat  of  Baldred,  the  apostle 
of  East  Lothian,  in  the  sixth  century;  and  in  1406, 
was  the  temporary  asylum  of  James  I.,  in  which  he 
was  placed  by  his  father,  Robert  III.,  previously  to 
his  embarkation  for  France,  to  avoid  the  persecution 
of  his  uncle,  the  Duke  of  Albany.  During  the  time  of 
Charles  II.  it  was  a  state  prison  for  the  confinement  of 
the  covenanting  ministers,  many  of  whom  died  here ; 
but  at  the  Revolution  of  16SS  it  ceased  to  be  used  for 
such  a  purpose.  This  rock,  which  is  let  on  lease  to  a 
keeper,  affords  pasturage  for  sheep,  which  are  in  high 
estimation  ;  and  is  frequented  in  great  numbers  by 
Solan  geese,  which,  when  young,  are  taken  by  a  hazard- 
ous process,  and  conveyed  to  the  opposite  shore.  Op- 
posite to  the  town,  and  about  a  mile  from  the  coast, 
is  the  island  of  Cragleith,  a  barren  rock,  about  a  mile 
in  circumference,  abounding  with  rabbits,  and  resorted 
to  by  sea-fowl,  of  which  the  puffin  is  the  most  con- 
spicuous. The  coast  of  the  parish  is  boldly  rocky,  and 
indented  with  bays,  of  which  one,  of  semicircular  form, 
reaches  from  the  west  of  the  harbour  to  Point  Gar^ ; 
and  a  still  larger,  about  two  miles  to  the  east  of  the 
town,  and  directly  opposite  to  the  Bass  rock,  called 
Canty  Bay,  is  the  residence  of  the  tenant  of  that  rock 
and  his  assistants.  The  shore,  to  the  west,  is  a  flat 
sand  ;  and  towards  the  east,  a  line  of  precipitate  rocks, 
terminating  in  a  lofty  eminence,  on  the  summit  of  which 
are  the  picturesque  ruins  of  Tantallan  Castle,  noticed 
hereafter. 

The  soil,  though  various,  is  generally  fertile,  and  the 
system  of  agriculture  in  a  highly  improved  state ;  the 
whole  number  of  acres  is  estimated  at  3456,  of  which 
32S0  are  arable,  about  170  in  pasture  and  in  woods  and 
plantations,  and  the  remainder  common.  The  chief 
crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  peas,  beans,  potatoes, 
and  turnips  ;  the  principal  manures  are  lime  and  rape- 
cake  ;  furrow-draining  has  been  extensively  adopted, 
and  the  farm  buildings  and  offices  are  generally  sub- 
stantial and  commodious.  About  1000  sheep  are  an- 
nually fed,  and  from  300  to  400  head  of  cattle,  mostly 
of  the  short-horned  breed.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £12,967.  The  woods  are  chiefly  ash, 
elm,  oak,  beech,  and  plane.  The  substrata  are  mainly 
trap,  sandstone,  and  limestone  ;  the  sandstone,  which  is 
usually  of  a  reddish  hue,  is  frequently  intersected  with 
strata  of  limestone.  The  rocks  are  principally  of  the 
secondary  formation  ;  the  lower  part  of  North  Berwick 
Law  is  trap  tuffa,  above  which  is  a  sonorous  clinkstone, 
and  near  the  summit  the  height  assumes  the  character 
of  amygdaloid ;  the  Bass  rock  is  generally  a  fine 
granular  greenstone,  abounding  with  felspar,  and 
strongly  exhibiting  the  tabular  structure.  At  North 
Berwick  Law,  are  extensive  quarries  of  excellent 
building-stone ;  and  at  Rhodes,  and  on  the  Balgone 
estate,  limestone  is  quarried  to  a  considerable  extent. 
North  Berwick  House  is  a  fine  mansion,  erected  in 
1777,  in  grounds  embellished  with  thriving  plantations  ; 
Balgone  and  Rockville  are  also  handsome  mansions, 
finely  situated. 

The  parish  appears  to  have  existed  from  a  very  remote 
period  of  antiquity,  and  its  church  was  most  probably 
founded  by  St.  Baldred  ;  on  the  foundation  of  the  nun- 
nery here,  the  church,  with  all  its  possessions,was  given  by 
123 


the  founder  to  that  establishment.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  of  the  parish  are  now  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  the  presbytery  of  Haddington  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent 
is  £306.  2.  5.,  and  the  patronage  is  exercised  by  Sir 
Hew  Dalrymple,  Bart. ;  the  manse  is  a  substantial  and 
comfortable  residence,  built  in  1S25,  and  pleasantly 
situated  on  an  eminence,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at  £35 
per  annum.  The  church,  erected  in  1770,  on  the  site 
of  the  former  edifice,  was,  in  1819,  thoroughly  repaired, 
and  the  interior  renewed  ;  it  is  adapted  for  a  congre- 
gation of  550  persons,  and  has  a  spacious  cemetery, 
planted  with  stately  avenues  of  ancient  elms.  There 
are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church 
and  the  United  Associate  Synod  :  the  former  was  erected 
with  a  view  to  honour  the  memory  of  the  covenanters 
imprisoned  on  the  Bass  rock,  and  the  expense  was 
defrayed  by  a  special  subscription.  The  parochial 
school  is  but  indifferently  attended ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34.  4.  4|.,  with  a  house  and  garden  ;  the  school 
fees  are  very  inconsiderable.  A  burgh  school  until 
lately  existed,  endowed  by  the  corporation,  by  whom  the 
master  was  appointed,  and  from  whose  funds  his  salary 
was  derived  ;  and  on  the  lands  of  Tantallan  is  a  sub- 
parochial  school.  There  are  also,  a  considerable  bequest 
by  Alexander  Home,  Esq.,  and  a  donation  of  £450,  called 
the  Edwin  fund,  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor.  About  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  west  of  the  town,  are  the 
remains  of  the  Cistercian  abbey,  beautifully  situated  on 
an  eminence  planted  with  trees,  but  so  greatly  dila- 
pidated as  scarcely  to  convey  a  faint,  idea  of  that  once 
venerable  and  stately  edifice  ;  the  vaults,  which  formed 
the  principal  relic,  were  many  years  since  destroyed. 
Near  the  harbour,  are  the  remains  of  what  is  supposed 
to  have  been  the  ancient  church,  consisting  chiefly  of 
the  entrance  doorway,  which  is  still  entire;  the  sea  is 
constantly  encroaching  upon  the  cemetery,  and  laying 
bare  the  remains  of  bodies  interred  there.  Three 
miles  to  the  east  of  the  town,  are  the  remains  of  the 
old  Castle  of  Tantallan,  seated  on  a  precipitous  emi- 
nence projecting  into  the  sea ;  the  outer  walls,  of 
hexagonal  form,  are  of  massive  thickness,  and  above 
the  entrance  is  a  sculptured  stone  shield,  bearing  the 
device  of  its  ancient  proprietors,  the  Douglases.  The 
interior  consists  of  numerous  apartments,  inaccessible 
from  the  dilapidated  state  of  the  various  staircases 
which  formerly  afforded  an  approach ;  and  the  vaults 
contain  many  dark  dungeons.  The  original  foundation 
of  this  castle  is  not  distinctly  ascertained ;  it  was 
the  stronghold  of  the  Douglas  family,  on  their  obtaining 
the  barony  of  East  Lothian,  at  the  accession  of  Robert 
II.,  and  for  centuries  the  seat  of  their  power.  It  was 
always  regarded  as  impregnable,  and  was  frequently 
assaulted  without  effect ;  it  was  finally  besieged,  and, 
after  an  obstinate  defence,  taken  by  the  forces  under 
Oliver  Cromwell ;  and,  together  with  the  lands,  was  sold 
by  the  Marquess  of  Douglas  to  Lord  President  Dal- 
rymple, by  whom  it  was  dismantled,  and  suffered  to 
fall  into  decay.  About  half  a  mile  to  the  west  of  the 
castle,  is  St.  Baldred's  well,  a  spring  of  excellent  water. 
Fenton  Tower,  an  ancient  edifice,  of  which  only  the  bare 
walls  remain,  is  situated  on  a  commanding  eminence  ; 
and  nearly  adjoining,  are  the  remains  of  the  palace  of 
Sydserf,  so  called  from  St.  Serf,  the  instructor  of 
Kentigern,  whose  retreat  was  in  this  place. 

R2 


BEKW 


B'ERW 


BERWICK  -  UPON- 
TWEED,  a  port,  borough, 
market  -  town,  parish,  and 
county  of  itself,  55  miles 
(E.  by  S.)  from  Edinburgh, 
and  334  (N.  by  W.)  from 
London ;  containing  8484 
inhabitants.  The  name  of 
this  town,  which  Leland 
supposes  to  have  been  origi- 
nally Aberwick,  from  the 
British  terms,  Aber,  the 
■drms.  mouth  of  a  river,   and  Wic, 

a  town,  is  by  Camden  and  other  antiquaries  considered 
as  expressive  merely  of  a  hamlet,  or  granary,  annexed 
to  a  place  of  greater  importance,  such  appendages  being 
usually  in  ancient  records  styled  berewics,  in  which  sense 
of  the  term  Berwick  is  thought  to  have  obtained  its 
name,  having  been  the  grange  of  the  priory  of  Colding- 
ham,  ten  miles  distant.  The  earliest  authentic  notice 
of  Berwick  occurs  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  I.,  and  in 
that  of  Henry  II.  of  England,  to  the  latter  of  which 
monarchs  it  was  given  up,  with  four  other  towns,  by 
William  the  Lion,  in  11/6,  as  a  pledge  for  the  perform- 
ance of  the  treaty  of  Falaise,  by  which,  in  order  to 
obtain  his  release  from  captivity  after  the  battle  of 
Alnwick,  in  1174,  he  had  engaged  to  do  homage  to  the 
English  monarch  as  lord  paramount  for  all  his  Scottish 
dominions.  Richard  I.,  to  obtain  a  supply  of  money 
for  his  expedition  to  the  Holy  Land,  sold  the  vassalage 
of  Scotland  for  10,000  marks,  and  restored  this  and  the 
other  towns  to  William,  content  with  receiving  homage 
for  the  territories  only  which  that  prince  held  in  Eng- 
land. King  John,  upon  retiring  from  an  unsuccessful 
invasion  of  Scotland,  burnt  the  town,  upon  which  the 
Scots  almost  immediately  rebuilt  it.  In  1291,  the 
Commissioners  appointed  to  examine  and  report  on  the 
validity  of  the  title  of  the  respective  claimants  to  the 
crown  of  Scotland,  met  at  Berwick,  and  pursued  there 
the  investigation  which  led  to  the  decision  in  favour  of 
John  Baliol.  Edward  I.,  having  compelled  Baliol  to 
resign  his  crown,  took  the  town  by  storm  in  1296,  upon 
which  a  dreadful  carnage  ensued  ;  and  here  he  received 
the  homage  of  the  Scottish  nobility,  in  the  presence  of  a 
council  of  the  whole  nation,  and  established  a  court  of 
exchequer  for  the  receipt  of  the  revenue  of  the  kingdom 
of  Scotland.  Wallace,  in  the  following  year,  having 
laid  siege  to  the  town,  took,  and  for  a  short  time  re- 
tained possession  of  it,  but  was  unsuccessful  in  his 
attempt  upon  the  castle,  which  was  relieved  by  the 
arrival  of  a  numerous  army.  Edward  II.,  in  prosecut- 
ing the  war  against  Scotland,  assembled  his  army  here 
repeatedly,  and  made  several  inroads  into  the  enemy's 
territory.  Robert  Bruce  obtained  it  in  1318,  and  hav- 
ing razed  the  walls,  and  strengthened  them  with  towers, 
kept  it,  notwithstanding  several  attacks  from  Edward 
II.  and  III.,  until  it  surrendered  to  the  latter  after  the 
celebrated  battle  of  Hallidown  Hill,  within  the  borough, 
which  took  place  on  the  19th  of  July,  1333.  As  a  fron- 
tier town,  it  was  always  the  first  object  of  attack  on  the 
renewal  of  hostilities  between  the  two  kingdoms ;  and, 
after  repeated  surrenders  and  sieges,  it  was  ceded  to 
Edward  IV.,  from  whom  and  his  successors,  as  well  as 
from  preceding  kings  of  Scotland,  including  Bruce,  it 
received  several  charters  and  privileges,  in  confirmation 
124 


and  enlargement  of  the  charter  granted  by  Edward  I., 
in  which  the  enjoyment  of  the  Scottish  laws  as  they 
existed  in  the  time  of  Alexander  III.  had  been  con- 
firmed. After  having  been  exposed,  during  the  subse- 
quent reigns,  to  the  continued  aggressions  of  the  Scots 
and  the  English,  Elizabeth  repaired  and  strengthened 
the  fortifications,  and  new  walled  part  of  the  town  : 
the  garrison  which  had  for  some  time  been  placed  in  it, 
was  continued  till  the  accession  of  James  to  the  English 
throne,  when  its  importance  as  a  frontier  town  ceased. 
During  the  civil  war  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.,  it  was 
garrisoned  by  the  parliament. 

The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  northern  bank, 
and  near  the  mouth,  of  the  river  Tweed,  the  approach  to 
which,  from  the  English  side,  is  over  a  handsome  stone 
bridge  of  fifteen  arches,  built  in  the  reigns  of  James  I. 
and  Charles  L,  and  connecting  it  with  Tweedmouth  on 
the  south.  The  streets,  with  the  exception  of  St.  Mary- 
gate,  usually  called  the  High-street,  Castlegate,  Ravens- 
downe,  the  Parade,  and  Hide-hill,  are  narrow,  but  neatly 
paved,  and  the  houses  are  in  general  well  built ;  the 
town  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  an  abundant  supply  of 
water  is  obtained  by  pipes  laid  down  to  the  houses  from 
the  public  reservoirs,  which  are  the  property  of  the  cor- 
poration. Fuel  is  also  plentiful,  there  being  several 
collieries  on  the  south,  and  one  on  the  north,  side  of 
the  river,  within  from  two  to  four  miles  of  the  town. 
A  public  library  was  established  in  1812,  and  a  reading- 
room  in  1S42;  the  theatre,  a  small  neat  building,  is 
opened  at  intervals,  and  there  are  assembly-rooms  which 
are  used  on  public  occasions.  The  new  fortifications, 
which  are  exceedingly  strong,  have  displaced  those  of 
more  ancient  date,  of  which  only  a  few  ruins  now  re- 
main ;  the  ramparts  afford  an  agreeable  promenade,  much 
frequented  by  the  inhabitants.  The  present  works  con- 
sist of  a  rampart  of  earth,  faced  with  stone  :  there  are 
no  outworks,  with  the  exception  of  the  old  castle,  which 
overlooks  the  Tweed,  and  is  now  completely  in  ruins, 
and  an  earthen  battery  at  the  landing-place  below  the 
Magdalen  fields.  The  line  of  works  towards  the  river  is 
almost  straight,  but  to  the  north  and  east  are  five  bas- 
tions, to  two  of  which  there  are  powder  magazines  ;  the 
harbour  is  defended  by  a  four  and  a  six  gun  battery 
near  the  governor's  house  ;  and  a  saluting  battery,  of 
twenty-two  guns,  commands  the  English  side  of  the 
Tweed.  There  are  five  gates  belonging  to  the  circum- 
vallation,  by  which  entrance  is  obtained.  The  barracks, 
which  were  built  in  1719,  form  a  small  quadrangle,  neatly 
built  of  stone,  and  afford  good  accommodation  for  600 
or  700  infantry.  To  these,  was  recently  attached  the 
governor's  house,  for  officers'  barracks  ;  but  that  building 
and  the  ground  adjoining,  formerly  the  site  of  the  palace 
of  the  kings  of  Scotland,  were  lately  sold  by  the  crown 
to  a  timber- merchant,  and  are  now  occupied  for  the 
purposes  of  his  trade. 

The  port  was  celebrated  in  the  time  of  Alexander  III., 
for  the  extent  of  its  traffic  in  wool,  hides,  salmon, 
&c,  which  was  carried  on  both  by  native  merchants, 
and  by  a  company  of  Flemings  settled  here,  the  latter 
of  whom,  however,  perished  in  the  conflagration  of 
their  principal  establishment,  called  the  Red  Hall,  which 
was  set  on  fire  at  the  capture  of  the  town  and  castle  by 
Edward  I.  The  port  has,  at  present,  a  considerable 
coasting  trade,  though  it  has  somewhat  declined  since 
the    termination    of  the  continental  war  :    the  exports 


BE'RW 


B  E  R  W 


arc,  corn,  wool,  salmon,  cod,  haddock,  herrings,  and 
coal ;  and  the  imports,  timber-deals,  staves,  iron,  hemp, 
tallow,  and  bones  for  manure.  About  800  men  are 
employed  in  the  fishery :  the  salmon  and  trout,  of 
which  large  quantities  are  caught,  are  packed  in  boxes 
with  ice,  and  sent  chiefly  to  the  London  market;  great 
quantities  of  lobsters,  crabs,  cod,  haddock,  and  herrings 
are  also  taken,  and  a  large  portion  forwarded,  similarly 
packed,  to  the  metropolis.  The  principal  articles  of 
manufacture,  exclusively  of  such  as  are  connected  with 
the  shipping,  are,  damask, diaper,  sacking,  cotton-hosiery, 
carpets,  hats,  boots,  and  shoes  ;  and  about.  200  hands 
are  employed  in  three  iron-foundries,  all  established 
within  the  present  century.  Steam-engines,  and  almost 
every  other  article,  are  made  •  the  gas-light  apparatus 
for  Berwick,  Perth,  and  several  other  places,  was  manu- 
factured here,  and  iron-works  have  lately  been  erected 
at  Galashiels,  and  at  Jedburgh,  by  the  same  proprietors. 
The  harbour  is  naturally  inconvenient,  the  greater 
part  of  it  being  left  dry  at  ebb-tide;  it  has,  however, 
been  recently  deepened  by  several  feet,  and  vessels  of 
large  tonnage  come  to  the  quay.  The  river  is  navigable 
only  to  the  bridge,  though  the  tide  flows  for  seven  miles 
beyond  it  :  on  account  of  the  entrance  being  narrowed 
by  sand-banks,  great  impediments  were  occasioned  to 
the  navigation  till  the  erection,  in  1S0S,  of  a  stone  pier  on 
the  projecting  rocks  at  the  north  entrance  of  the  Tweed  ; 
it  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  has  a  light-house 
at  the  extremity.  This,  together  with  the  clearing  and 
deepening  of  the  harbour,  has  materially  improved  the 
facilities  of  navigation,  and  been  of  great  importance  to 
the  shipping  interest  of  the  place.  On  the  Tweed  mouth 
shore,  for  a  short  space,  near  the  Carr  Rock,  ships  of 
400  or  500  tons'  burthen  may  ride  in  safety.  The  smacks 
and  small  brigs,  formerly  carrying  on  the  whole  traffic 
of  the  place,  are  now  superseded  by  large  and  well-fitted 
steam-vessels,  schooners,  and  clipper-ships.  There  are 
numerous  and  extensive  quays  and  warehouses,  and  a 
patent-slip  for  the  repair  of  vessels  ;  and  the  town  will 
soon  have  the  further  advantage  of  a  railway  to  Edin- 
burgh, in  continuation  of  the  projected  railway  along 
the  east  coast  hence  to  Newcastle-upon-Tyne.  The 
market,  which  is  well  supplied  with  grain,  is  on  Satur- 
day, and  there  is  an  annual  fair  on  the  last  Friday  in 
May,  for  black  cattle  and  horses  ;  statute-fairs  are  also 
held  on  the  first  Saturday  in  March,  May,  August,  and 
November. 

By  charter  of  incorporation  granted  in  the  thirty- 
eighth  year  of  James  VI.,  the  government  was  vested  in 
a  mayor,  bailiffs,  and  burgesses  ;  and  there  were,  besides, 
an  alderman  for  the  year,  a  recorder,  town-clerk,  town- 
treasurer,  four  serjeants-at-mace,  and  other  officers ; 
but  the  controul  now  resides  in  a  mayor,  six  aldermen, 
and  eighteen  councillors,  together  composing  the  coun- 
cil, by  whom  a  sheriff  and  other  officers  are  appointed. 
The  borough  is  distributed  into  three  wards,  and  its 
municipal  and  parliamentary  boundaries  are  the  same  ; 
the  mayor  and  late  mayor  are,  pro  tempore,  justices  of 
the  peace,  and  twelve  other  gentlemen  have  been  ap- 
pointed to  act  as  such,  under  a  separate  commission. 
Berwick  was  one  of  the  royal  burghs  which,  in  ancient 
times,  sent  representatives  to  the  court  of  the  four  royal 
burghs  in  Scotland,  and  on  being  annexed  to  the  king- 
dom of  England,  its  prescriptive  usages  were  confirmed 
by  royal  charter.  It  sent  representatives  to  parliament 
125 


in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.,  since  which  time  it  has 
continued  to  return  two  members.  The  right  of  elec- 
tion was  formerly  vested  in  the  freemen  at  large,  in 
number  about  1140;  now,  the  resident  freemen  and 
certain  householders  are  the  electors,  and  the  sheriff  is 
returning  officer.  The  limits  of  the  borough  include  the 
townships  of  Tweedmouth  and  Spittal,  lying  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river.  The  corporation  hold  courts  of 
quarter-session  for  the  borough,  and  a  court  of  pleas 
every  alternate  Tuesday,  for  the  recovery  of  debts  to 
any  amount ;  and  a  court-leet  is  regularly  held  under 
the  charter,  at  which  six  petty  constables  are  always 
appointed.  The  town-hall  is  a  spacious  and  handsome 
building,  with  a  portico  of  four  massive  circular  columns 
of  the  Tuscan  order,  a  portion  of  the  lower  part  of 
which,  called  the  Exchange,  is  appropriated  to  the  use 
of  the  poultry  and  butter  market ;  the  first  story  con- 
tains two  spacious  halls  and  other  apartments,  in  which 
the  courts  are  held,  and  the  public  business  of  the  cor- 
poration transacted,  and  the  upper  part  is  used  as  a  gaol. 
The  whole  forms  a  stately  pile  of  fine  hewn  stone,  and  is 
surmounted  with  a  lofty  spire,  containing  a  peal  of  eight 
bells,  which,  on  the  sabbath- day,  summon  the  inhabit- 
ants to  the  parish  church. 

The  living  is  a  vicarage,  within  the  jurisdiction  of 
the  consistorial  court  of  Durham,  valued  in  the  king's 
books  at  £20  ;  net  income,  £289  ;  patrons  and  appro- 
priators,  the  Dean  and  Chapter  of  Durham.  The  church 
is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  decorated  English  style, 
built  during  the  usurpation  of  Cromwell,  and  is  without 
a  steeple  :  one  of  the  Fishbourn  lectureships  is  esta- 
blished here,  the  service  being  performed  in  the  church. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Scottish 
Kirk,  the  Associate  Synod,  the  Scottish  Relief,  Particular 
Baptists,  Wesleyans,  and  Roman  Catholics.  A  school 
for  the  instruction  of  the  sons  of  burgesses  in  English 
and  the  mathematics,  was  founded  and  endowed  by  the 
corporation,  in  1798  ;  to  each  department  there  is  a 
separate  master,  paid  by  the  corporation,  and  the  average 
number  of  pupils  is  about  300.  The  burgesses  have 
also  the  patronage  of  a  free  grammar  school,  endowed  in 
the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  by  Sir  William 
Selby,  of  the  Moat,  and  other  charitable  persons.  The 
Blue-coat  charity-school  was  founded  in  1/58,  by  Captain 
Bolton,  and  endowed  with  £S00,  since  augmented  with 
several  benefactions,  especially  with  one  of  £1000  by 
Richard  Cowle,  who  died  at  Dantzic,  in  1819  ;  the  whole 
income  is  £155,  which  is  applied  to  educating  about  150 
boys,  of  whom  40  are  also  clothed.  A  pauper  lunatic 
house  was  erected  in  1S13,  and.a  dispensary  was  esta- 
blished in  1814.  A  considerable  part  of  the  corpora- 
tion land  is  allotted  into  "meadows"  and  "  stints,"  and 
given  rent-free  to  the  resident  freemen  and  freemen's 
widows,  according  to  seniority,  for  their  respective 
lives.  Among  the  most  important  bequests  for  the 
benefit  of  the  poor,  are,  £1000  by  Richard  Cowle,  £1000 
by  John  Browne,  in  175S,  and  £28  per  annum  by  Sarah 
Foreman,  in  1S03.  Some  remains  of  the  ancient  castle 
of  Berwick  are  still  visible,  and  of  a  pentagonal  tower 
near  it ;  also  of  a  square  fort  in  Magdalen  fields,  and 
some  entrenchments  on  Hallidosvn  Hill ;  but  all  ves- 
tiges of  the  ancient  churches  and  chapels  of  the  town, 
the  Benedictine  nunnery,  said  to  have  been  founded  by 
David,  King  of  Scotland,  and  of  the  monasteries  of 
Black,  Grey,  White,  and  Trinitarian  friars,  and  of  three 


BERW 


BIGG 


or  four  hospitals,  have  entirely  disappeared.  During  the 
reigns  of  William  the  Lion,  and  of  Edward  I.,  II.,  and 
III.,  and  other  Scottish  and  English  monarchs,  Berwick 
was  a  place  of  mintage  ;  and  several  of  its  coins  are  still 
preserved.  There  is  a  mineral  spring  close  to  the  town, 
which  is  occasionally  resorted  to  by  invalids. 

BERWICKSHIRE,  a  maritime  county,  in  the  south- 
east of  Scotland,  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  German 
Sea  and  Haddingtonshire  ;  on  the  east  and  north-east,  by 
the  German  Sea  ;  on  the  south  by  the  river  Tweed,  which 
separates  it  from  the  English  counties  of  Durham  and 
Northumberland  ;  and  on  the  west  and  south-west,  by  the 
counties  of  Edinburgh  and  Roxburgh.  It  lies  between 
55°  36'  30"  and  55°  58'  30"  (N.  Lat.),  and  1°  41'  and 
2°  34'  (W.  Long.),  and  is  about  35  miles  in  length,  and 
22  miles  in  extreme  breadth  ;  comprising  about  446£ 
square  miles,  or  285,760  acres,  and  7408  inhabited 
houses,  and  381  uninhabited  ;  and  containing  a  popu- 
lation of  34,438,  of  whom  16,55S  are  males,  and  17.SS0 
females.  The  county  derives  its  name  from  the  ancient 
town  of  Berwick,  formerly  the  county  town,  and  was 
originally  inhabited  by  the  Ottadini ,-  after  the  Roman 
invasion,  it  formed  part  of  the  province  of  Valentia,  and 
though  not  the  site  of  any  station  of  importance,  it  is 
intersected  by  several  Roman  roads.  After  the  de- 
parture of  the  Romans  from  Britain,  this  part  of  the 
country  was  continually  exposed  to  the  predatory  in- 
cursions of  the  Saxons,  by  whom,  about  the  middle  of 
the  sixth  century,  it  was  subdued,  and  annexed  to  the 
kingdom  of  Northumbria,  of  which  it  continued  to  form 
part  till  the  year  1020,  when  it  was  ceded  to  Malcolm 
II.,  King  of  Scotland,  by  Cospatrick,  Earl  of  Northum- 
berland, whom  that  monarch  made  Earl  of  Dunbar. 

From  its  situation  on  the  borders,  the  county  was  the 
scene  of  frequent  hostilities,  and  an  object  of  continual 
dispute  between  the  Scots  and  English.  In  1 176,  it 
was  surrendered  by  William  the  Lion  to  Henry  II.  of 
England,  by  whom  he  had  been  made  prisoner  in  battle, 
as  security  for  the  performance  of  the  treaty  of  Falaise, 
on  failure  of  which  it  was  for  ever  to  remain  a  part  of  the 
kingdom  of  England;  but  on  payment  of  a  ransom,  it 
was  restored  to  the  Scots  by  Richard  I.  In  1216,  it 
suffered  greatly  from  the  army  of  John,  who,  to  punish 
the  barons  of  Northumberland,  for  having  done  homage 
to  Alexander,  King  of  Scotland,  burnt  the  towns  of  Rox- 
burgh, Mitford,  and  Morpeth,  and  laid  waste  nearly  the 
whole  county  of  Northumberland.  During  the  disputed 
succession  to  the  Scottish  throne,  after  the  death  of 
Alexander  III.,  this  district  suffered  materially  from  the 
contending  parties;  and  in  1291,  the  town  of  Berwick 
was  surrendered  to  Edward  I.  of  England,  who,  as  lord 
paramount  of  Scotland,  received  the  oaths  of  fealty  and 
allegiance  from  many  of  the  Scottish  nobility.  The 
inhabitants  soon  after  revoking  their  allegiance  to  the 
English  crown,  Edward  advanced  with  his  army  to  Ber- 
wick, which  he  took  by  assault,  and  held  a  parliament 
in  the  castle,  in  1296,  when  he  received  the  oath  of 
allegiance;  and  in  the  year  following,  he  made  Berwick 
the  metropolis  of  the  English  government  in  Scotland. 
The  town  was  restored  to  the  Scots  in  13 IS,  but,  after 
the  death  of  James  III.,  was  finally  ceded  by  treaty  to  the 
English,  in  14S2;  in  1551,  the  town,  with  a  district  adjoin- 
ing, called  the  liberties  of  Berwick,  was  made  independent 
of  both  kingdoms,  and  invested  with  peculiar  privileges. 
After  Berwick  ceased  to  be  the  county  town,  the  general 
126 


business  of  the  county  was  transacted  at  Dunse  or 
Lauder,  till  the  year  1596,  when  Greenlaw  was  selected 
by  James  VI.,  as  the  most  appropriate  for  the  purpose; 
and  that  arrangement  was  ratified  by  act  of  parliament, 
in  1600. 

The  county  was  anciently  included  in  the  diocese  of 
St.  Andrew's  ;  it  is  now  almost  wholly  in  the  synod  of 
Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and  comprises  several  presby- 
teries, and  thirty-four  parishes.  Exclusively  of  the  sea- 
port of  Berwick-upon-Tweed,  which  has  a  separate  juris- 
diction, it  contains  the  county  town  of  Greenlaw,  the 
royal  burgh  of  Lauder,  and  the  towns  of  Dunse,  Cold- 
stream, and  Eyemouth,  with  the  villages  of  Ayton, 
Gourdon,  Earlstoun,  Chirnside,  Coldingham,  and  others. 
Under  the  act  of  the  2nd  and  3rd  of  William  IV.,  the 
county  returns  one  member  to  the  imperial  parliament. 
The  surface  varies  in  the  different  districts  into  which 
the  county  is  naturally  divided,  and  which  are  the 
Merse,  Lammermoor,  and  Lauderdale ;  the  Merse  is  a 
level  district,  extending  for  nearly  twenty  miles  along 
the  north  bank  of  the  Tweed,  and  about  ten  miles  in 
breadth,  and  is  richly  fertile,  well  inclosed,  and  pleas- 
ingly diversified  with  gentle  eminences,  and  enriched 
with  plantations.  The  district  of  Lammermoor,  nearly 
of  equal  extent,  and  parallel  with  the  Merse,  is  a  hilly 
tract,  chiefly  adapted  for  pasture;  the  district  of  Lauder, 
to  the  west  of  the  two  former,  is  diversified  with  hills, 
affording  good  pasturage  for  sheep,  principally  of  the 
black-faced  breed,  and  a  coarse  breed  of  black-cattle, 
and  has  fertile  vales  of  arable  land,  yielding  abundant 
crops.  The  highest  hills  are  in  the  Lammermoor  range, 
varying  from  1500  to  1650  feet  in  height :  the  principal 
rivers  are,  the  Tweed,  which  forms  the  southern  boun- 
dary of  the  county ;  the  Whiteadder,  the  Blackadder, 
the  Leader,  and  the  Eden,  which  are  tributaries  to  the 
Tweed  ;  and  the  river  Eye,  which  falls  into  the  sea  at 
Eyemouth.  The  coast  is  bold  and  rocky,  rising  pre- 
cipitously to  a  great  height,  and  is  almost  inaccessible, 
except  at  Eyemouth  and  Coldingham  Bay,  and  in  some 
few  points  where  there  are  small  beaches  of  sand  or 
gravel  near  the  rocks.  The  minerals  found  are  not  of 
any  importance ;  some  coal  has  been  discovered  in  the 
parishes  of  Mordington  and  Cockburnspath  ;  limestone, 
marl,  and  gypsum  have  been  quarried,  but  to  no  great 
extent,  and  freestone  and  whinstone  are  abundant.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  county  is  £252,945.  The 
chief  seats  are,  Thirlstane  Castle,  Dryburgh  Abbey,  Mel- 
lerstain,  Hirsel,  Marchmont,  Lady  Kirk,  Blackadder, 
Dunse  Castle,  Kelloe,  Mertoun,  Spottiswood,  Ayton, 
Dunglass,  Wedderburn,  Paxton,  Langton,  Kimmergham, 
and  Nisbet. 

BIGGA  ISLE,  in  the  parishes  of  Delting  and  Yell, 
county  of  Shetland.  It  is  a  small  isle,  lying  between 
the  mainland  of  Shetland  and  the  island  of  Yell,  in  the 
sound  of  Yell ;  half  of  it  belongs  to  the  parish  of  Yell, 
and  half  to  that  of  Delting.  The  inhabitants  consist  of 
a  few  families  who  pasture  black-cattle  and  sheep. 

BIGGAR,  a  parish  and  market-town,  in  the  Upper 
ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  12  miles  (S.  E.)  from 
Lanark,  on  the  road  from  Dumfries  to  Edinburgh  ;  con- 
taining 1865  inhabitants,  of  whom  1395  are  in  the  town. 
The  original  name  of  this  place,  as  it  occurs  in  several 
ancient  charters,  is  generally  written  Biger,  or  Bigre, 
and  is  supposed  to  have  been  derived  from  the  nature 
of  the  ground  on  which  the    castle   of  the  family  of 


BIGG 


BIGG 


Biggar  was  situated  (in  the  centre  of  a  soft  morass), 
and  to  have  been  thence  applied  to  the  whole  of  the 
parish  ;  and  from  the  same  circumstance,  the  castle 
assumed  the  name  of  Boghall.  The  manor  was  granted 
by  David  I.  to  Baldwin,  a  Flemish  leader,  whose  de- 
scendants still  retain  the  surname  of  Fleming ;  they 
appear  to  claim  a  very  remote  antiquity,  and  the  name 
of  Baldwin  de  Biger  appears  in  testimony  to  a  charter, 
prior  to  the  year  1 1 60.  Some  accounts,  chiefly  tradi- 
tional, are  still  retained  of  a  battle  fought  at  this  place, 
between  the  English  forces  under  Edward  I.,  and  the 
Scots  commanded  by  Wallace,  in  which  the  former  were 
defeated ;  and  though  not  authenticated  by  any  his- 
torian of  acknowledged  authority,  the  probability  of  the 
event  is  partly  strengthened  by  the  frequent  discovery 
of  broken  armour  in  a  field  near  the  town  ;  the  name  of 
a  rivulet  called  the  Red  Syke,  running  through  the  sup- 
posed field  of  battle,  and  so  named  from  the  slaughter 
of  the  day  ;  and  the  evident  remains  of  an  encampment 
in  the  immediate  neighbourhood.  On  this  cccasion, 
Wallace  is  said  to  have  gained  admission  into  the 
enemy's  camp,  disguised  as  a  dealer  in  provisions,  and, 
after  having  ascertained  their  numbers  and  order,  to 
have  been  pursued  in  his  retreat  to  the  bridge  over 
Biggar  water,  when,  turning  on  his  pursuers,  he  put 
the  most  forward  of  them  to  death,  and  made  his  escape 
to  his  army,  who  were  encamped  on  the  heights  of 
Tinto.  A  wooden  bridge  over  the  Bis;o;ar  is  still  called 
the  "  Cadger's  Brig  ;"  and  on  the  north  side  of  Bizzy- 
berry,  are  a  hollow  in  a  rock,  and  a  spring,  which  are 
called  respectively  Wallace's  seat  and  well.  The  Scot- 
tish army  under  Sir  Simon  Fraser  is  said  to  have  ren- 
dezvoused here,  the  night  previous  to  the  victory  of 
Roslin,  in  1302  ;  and  Edward  II.,  on  his  invasion  of 
Scotland,  in  1310,  spent  the  first  week  of  October  at  this 
place,  while  attempting  to  pass  through  Selkirk  to  Ren- 
frew. In  1651,  after  Cromwell's  victory  at  Perth,  the 
Scottish  army,  passing  by  Biggar,  summoned  the  place, 
at  that  time  garrisoned  by  the  English,  to  surrender ; 
and  in  1715,  Lockhart,  of  Carnwath,  the  younger,  raised 
a  troop  for  the  service  of  the  Pretender,  which,  after 
remaining  for  some  time  here,  marched  to  Dumfries, 
and  joined  the  forces  under  Lord  Ken  mure. 

The  town  is  finely  situated  on  the  Biggar  water,  by 
which  it  is  divided  into  two  very  unequal  parts,  the  smaller 
forming  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  suburb,  communi- 
cating with  the  town  by  a  neat  bridge ;  the  houses  in 
this  suburb  are  built  on  the  sloping  declivities,  and  on 
the  brow,  of  the  right  bank  of  the  rivulet,  and  have 
hanging  gardens.  The  town  consists  of  one  wide  street, 
regularly  built,  and  from  its  situation  on  rising  ground, 
commands  an  extensive  and  varied  view ;  most  of  the 
houses  are  of  respectable  appearance,  and  within  the 
last  few  years,  several  new  and  handsome  houses  have 
been  erected.  There  is  a  scientific  institution,  founded 
in  the  year  1839.  A  public  library  was  established  in 
1791,  which  contains  about  800  volumes;  another  was 
opened  in  1S00,  which  has  a  collection  of  more  than 
500  ;  and  a  third,  exclusively  a  theological  library,  was 
founded  in  1807,  and  has  about  700  volumes.  A  public 
newsroom  was  opened  in  182S;  but  it  met  with  little 
support,  and  has  consequently  been  discontinued.  The 
trade  consists  chiefly  in  the  sale  of  merchandise  for  the 
supply  of  the  parish  and  surrounding  district,  and  in 
the  weaving  of  cloth,  in  which  latter  about  200  of  the 
127 


inhabitants  are  employed.  A  branch  of  the  Commercial 
bank  was  established  in  1833,  and  a  building  erected 
for  its  use,  which  adds  much  to  the  appearance  of  the 
town ;  and  a  branch  of  the  Western  Bank  of  Scotland 
has  since  been  established.  A  savings'  bank  was  opened 
in  1832,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  agricultural 
labourers,  of  whom  there  are  about  460  depositors  ;  and 
the  amount  of  their  deposits  is  about  £3500.  The  mar- 
ket is  on  Thursday ;  and  fairs  are  held  at  Candlemas, 
for  hiring  servants;  at  Midsummer,  for  the  sale  of  wool; 
and  on  the  last  Thursday  in  October  (O.  S.),  for  horses 
and  black-cattle  ;  all  of  which  are  numerously  attended. 
The  inhabitants,  in  1451,  received  from  James  II.  a 
charter,  erecting  the  town  into  a  free  burgh  of  barony, 
and  granting  a  weekly  market  and  other  privileges, 
which  grants  were  renewed,  at  intervals,  down  to  the 
year  1662. 

The  parish,  which  borders  on  the  county  of  Peebles, 
is  about  6|  miles  in  length,  and  varies  very  greatly  in 
breadth,  being  of  triangular  form,  and  comprising  about 
5850  Scottish  acres,  chiefly  arable  land.  The  surface  is 
generally  hilly,  though  comprising  a  considerable  pro- 
portion of  level  ground,  particularly  towards  the  south, 
where  is  a  plain  of  large  extent ;  the  hills  are  of  little 
height,  and  the  acclivities,  being  gentle,  afford  excellent 
pasture.  The  principal  stream  is  the  Biggar  water, 
which  rises  on  the  north  side  of  the  parish,  and,  after  a 
course  of  nearly  two  miles,  intersects  the  town,  and 
flows  through  a  fine  open  vale,  to  the  river  Tweed  ;  the 
Candy  burn  rises  in  the  north-east  portion  of  the  parish, 
which  it  separates  from  the  county  of  Peebles,  and 
falls,  after  a  course  of  three  miles,  into  the  Biggar 
water.  The  scenery  is  highly  diversified  ;  and  the  ap- 
proach to  the  town,  by  the  Carnwath  road,  presents  to 
the  view  a  combination  of  picturesque  features.  The  soil 
is  various  ;  about.  1000  acres  are  of  a  clayey  nature, 
on  a  substratum  of  clay  or  gravel ;  2000  are  a  light 
black  loam,  resting  upon  whinstone,  and  the  remainder 
sandy,  and  black  loam  inclining  to  peat-moss.  The 
system  of  agriculture  is  greatly  improved,  and  green 
crops  have  been  introduced  with  success ;  the  chief 
produce  consists  of  oats  and  barley  ;  much  attention  is 
paid  to  the  management  of  the  dairy,  and  to  the  im- 
provement of  live  stock.  The  cattle  are  mostly  a  cross 
between  the  native  and  the  Ayrshire  breed,  which  latter 
is  every  day  becoming  more  predominant ;  many  sheep 
are  pastured  on  the  hills  and  acclivities,  and  the  prin- 
cipal stock  regularly  reared  are  of  the  old  Tweeddale 
breed.  Great  progress  has  been  made  in  draining  and 
inclosing  the  lands ;  two  mills  for  oats  and  barley  have 
been  erected,  and  there  are  not  less  than  twenty-five 
threshing-machines,  of  which  one,  constructed  by  Mr. 
Watts,  has  the  water-wheel  50  feet  below  the  level  of 
the  barn,  and  120  feet  distant  from  it,  the  power  being 
communicated  to  the  machinery  by  shafts  acting  on  an 
inclined  plane.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £7329.  About  750  acres  are  in  plantations,  chiefly 
Scotch  fir,  in  the  management  of  which  much  improve- 
ment has  been  made  by  the  introduction  of  a  new 
method  of  pruning  ;  and  on  the  several  farmsteads,  are 
numerous  fine  specimens  of  the  hard-wood  timber, 
which  is  better  adapted  to  the  soil,  and  is  consequently 
growing  gradually  into  use,  in  the  more  recent  planta- 
tions. Of  these,  the  ash  and  elm  seem  to  thrive  best ; 
and  the  beech  and  the  plane  also  answer  well.     Among 


BIGG 


B  I  R  N 


the  various  mansions  are,  Edmonston,  a  castellated 
structure,  pleasingly  situated  in  a  secluded  vale  near  the 
east  end  of  the  parish  ;  Biggar  Park  and  Cambus-Wal- 
lace,  both  handsome  residences,  in  the  immediate  vici- 
nity of  the  town ;  and  Carwood,  a  spacious  mansion, 
recently  erected,  and  surrounded  by  young  and  thriving 
plantations. 

The  origin  of  the  parish  is  rather  obscure  ;  but  it 
appears  that  a  chaplaiucy  was  founded  here,  in  expia- 
tion of  the  murder  of  John,  Lord  Fleming,  chamberlain 
of  Scotland,  who  was,  in  1524,  assassinated  by  John 
Tweedie,  of  Drummelzier,  his  son,  and  other  accom- 
plices. For  this  purpose,  an  assessment  in  lands  was 
given  to  Malcolm,  Lord  Fleming,  son  of  the  murdered 
lord,  with  £10  per  annum  granted  in  mortmain,  for  the 
support  of  a  chaplain,  to  pray  and  sing  mass  for  the 
soul  of  the  deceased  in  the  parish  church  of  Biggar, 
which  Malcolm,  in  1545,  made  collegiate,  and  endowed 
for  a  provost,  eight  canons  and  prebendaries,  and  four 
choristers,  with  six  aged  poor  men.  On  this  occasion, 
the  church  of  Thankertoun,  which  had  previously  been 
bestowed  on  the  abbey  of  Kelso,  by  one  of  his  predeces- 
sors, was  given  up  to  Malcolm,  by  the  monks,  and 
annexed  to  the  collegiate  church.  The  parish  is  now 
in  the  presbytery  of  Biggar  and  synod  of  Lothian  and 
Tweeddale,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  family  of  Fle- 
ming ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £263.  4.  1 .,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £30  per  annum.  The 
church,  erected  in  1545,  was  formerly  an  elegant  and 
venerable  cruciform  structure  in  the  later  English  style, 
with  a  tower  which  was  not  finished,  as  the  Reform- 
ation occurred  while  the  building  was  in  progress. 
This  structure,  though  complete  in  every  other  respect, 
and  uninjured  by  time,  has  been  dreadfully  mutilated  : 
the  western  porch,  the  vestry  communicating  with  the 
chancel,  and  having  a  richly-groined  roof,  the  buttresses 
that  supported  the  north  wall  of  the  nave,  and  the 
arched  gateway  leading  into  the  churchyard,  though 
perfect])'-  entire,  and  beautiful  specimens  of  architecture, 
were  all  taken  down  about  fifty  years  since,  and  the 
materials  sold  for  £7,  to  defray  some  parochial  ex- 
penses. The  interior  of  the  church  underwent,  at  the 
same  time,  a  similar  lamentable  devastation  ;  the  organ- 
gallery  was  removed,  and  the  richly-groined  roof  of 
the  chancel,  which  was  embellished  with  gilt  tracery, 
was  destroyed,  and  replaced  with  lath  and  plaster,  for 
uniformity.  The  church  has  lately  received  an  addition 
of  120  sittings,  by  the  erection  of  a  gallery  ;  it  has  been 
also  newly-seated,  and  affords  considerable  accommo- 
dation. There  are  places  of  worship  for  Burghers,  and 
those  of  the  Relief  Church.  The  parochial  school  affords 
education  to  about  ISO  scholars;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  about  £75  fees,  and  a  house  and 
garden. 

At  the  western  extremity  of  the  town,  is  a  large 
mound,  more  than  300  feet  in  circumference  at  the  base, 
150  feet  on  the  summit,  and  36  feet  in  height,  supposed 
to  have  been,  in  ancient  times,  a  seat  for  the  adminis- 
tration of  justice  ;  it  appears  to  have  been  also  used  as 
a  beacon,  and  to  have  formed  one  of  a  chain  extending 
across  the  vale  between  the  Clyde  and  the  Tweed. 
There  are  several  remains  of  encampments,  of  which 
one,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  town,  is  180  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, defended  by  a  deep  moat  and  double  ram- 
part; and  near  Candy  bank,  is  another,  of  oval  form. 
128 


On  the  banks  of  Oldshields,  are  some  Druidical  remains 
consisting  of  four  upright  stones,  near  which  arrow- 
heads of  flint  have  been  found  ;  and  on  the  lands  of 
Carwood,  two  Roman  vessels  of  bronze  were  discovered 
in  a  moss  ;  one,  holding  about  two  quarts,  has  a  handle 
and  three  legs,  and  the  other,  less  elegant,  in  form,  holds 
about  eight  quarts.  The  venerable  remains  of  the  castle 
of  Boghall,  which  gave  so  great  an  interest  to  the  sce- 
nery of  the  beautiful  vale  in  which  they  were  situated, 
have  been  almost  demolished,  for  the  sake  of  the  stone ; 
and  little  more  is  left  than  a  small  angular  tower,  which 
serves  to  mark  the  site.  The  late  Dr.  A.  Brown,  Pro- 
fessor of  Rhetoric  in  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  and 
Robert  Forsyth,  Esq.,  an  eminent  advocate,  were  natives 
of  the  parish  ;  and  many  of  the  landed  proprietors  have 
been  eminently  distinguished  in  the  annals  of  their 
country. 

BILSDEAN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Oldham- 
stocks,  county  of  Haddington,  2|  miles  (N.  E.)  from 
Oldhamstocks  ;  containing  59  inhabitants.  It  is  seated 
on  the  sea-shore,  and  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  fishermen, 
whose  principal  employment  is  taking  lobsters  for  the 
supply  of  the  London  market;  various  other  kinds  of 
fish  are  also  caught  here,  whereof  the  most  common  are 
turbot,  cod,  haddock,  and  herrings.  Several  boats 
belong  to  the  creek,  carrying  four  men  each. 

BIRDSTONE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Campsie, 
county  of  Stirling,  1  mile  (N.)  from  Kirkintilloch  ; 
containing  100  inhabitants.  It  lies  east  of  the  road 
from  Kirkintilloch  to  Campsie,  and  a  little  west  of 
a  small  stream  that  falls  into  the  Kelvin  water,  on  the 
confines  of  the  county. 

BIRGHAM,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Eccles, 
county  of  Berwick,  2|  miles  (W.)  from  Coldstream ; 
containing  241  inhabitants.  This  is  a  small  ancient 
village,  seated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Tweed,  opposite 
to  Carbarn,  in  Northumberland ;  and  the  road  from 
London  to  Edinburgh,  by  way  of  Kelso,  and  that  from 
Kelso  to  Berwick,  pass  through  the  place.  It  is  noted  for 
several  events  connected  with  history,  among  which  was 
the  meeting,  in  1291,  of  the  twelve  competitors  for  the 
Scottish  throne,  with  the  commissioners  of  Edward  I., 
of  England,  to  represent  their  claims,  acknowledging 
his  paramount  authority  over  Scotland.  One  of  two 
burial-places  in  the  parish  is  situated  here. 

BIRNIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Elgin,  3  miles 
(S.)  from  Elgin  ;  containing  407  inhabitants.  This 
place  is  said  by  some  to  have  been  the  site  of  the  first 
cathedral  of  the  diocese  of  Moray  ;  and  it  is  probable 
that  Simeon  de  Tonei,  one  of  the  bishops,  was  buried 
here,  in  1184.  The  parish  is  nearly  of  an  oblong  figure, 
extending  about  seven  miles  in  length,  and  one  and 
a  half  in  mean  breadth,  and  contains  nearly  S000 
acres,  of  which  about  2000  are  under  tillage,  304  under 
wood,  and  the  remainder  waste.  It  is  separated  from 
the  parish  of  Knockando,  on  the  south,  by  the  junction 
of  the  parishes  of  Dallas  and  Rothes,  and  is  bounded 
on  all  the  other  sides  by  the  parish  of  Elgin.  It  lies 
on  the  north  side  of  the  high  ground  which  rises  be- 
tween the  Spey  and  the  flat  of  Moray.  The  surface  is 
irregular  and  abrupt,  is  marked  with  several  ravines 
and  high  hills  covered  with  heath,  and  has  in  general  a 
bleak  and  rugged  appearance  ;  it  is  also  intersected  with 
the  three  rivulets,  Lennock,  Barden,  and  Rashcrook, 
which  flow   into  the  Lossie,  a  stream  containing  abun- 


B  1  R  S 


B  I  IIS 


dance  of  common  trout.  The  arable  soil  is  generally 
of  a  gravelly  or  sandy  kind,  occasionally  clayey,  and  by 
the  sides  of  the  Lossie  and  of  the  rivulets  it  is  loamy  ; 
other  plots  are  of  a  mossy  or  moory  nature.  All 
kinds  of  grain  are  produced,  as  well  as  potatoes  and 
turnips,  with  a  small  quantity  of  flax.  The  cattle,  which 
have  been  lately  much  improved,  are  usually  a  cross 
between  the  low-country  cows  of  Moray  and  West 
Highland  bulls  ;  the  sheep  are  chiefly  Cheviots,  and  the 
horses,  though  small,  are  active,  and  well  adapted  for 
ploughing  the  light  shallow  land  of  which  the  parish 
mainly  consists.  The  improved  system  of  agriculture 
is  followed,  and  very  considerable  advances  have  re- 
cently been  made.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £1249.  The  chief  rocks  in  the  district  are 
sandstone  and  gneiss,  with  a  small  proportion  of  slate. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  pres- 
bytery of  Elgin  and  synod  of  Moray ;  the  patronage 
belongs  to  the  Earl  of  Moray,  and  the  minister  has  a 
stipend  of  £156.  S.  4.,  a  portion  of  which  is  received 
from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of.  about 
eight  acres  of  good  land.  The  church  is  a  very  ancient 
structure,  repaired  in  1317,  with  accommodation  for 
250  persons,  and  contains  a  fine  Saxon  arch,  separating 
the  choir  from  the  body  of  the  edifice  ;  also  a  stone 
baptistery,  and  an  old  bell  composed  of  silver  and 
copper,  of  an  oblong  figure,  which  tradition  asserts  to 
have  been  made  at  Rome,  and  consecrated  by  the  pope. 
There  is  a  parochial  school,  the  master  of  which  has 
a  salary  of  £26,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  about 
£4  fees ;  and  the  poor  have  the  benefit  of  a  bequest 
producing  about  £3  per  annum.  About  a  mile  east 
from  the  church,  on  the  side  of  the  road,  is  a  stone 
called  the  "  Bible  Stone,"  having  the  figure  of  a  book 
distinctly  engraven  on  it ;  and  in  the  corner  of  a  field  once 
called  Castlehill,  the  foundations  of  what  is  supposed  to 
have  been  the  ancient  episcopal  palace  were  dug  up 
about  half  a  century  ago. 

BIRSAY  and  HARRAY,  a  parish,  in  the  county 
of  Orkney;  containing  2406  inhabitants,  of  whom 
1634  are  in  Birsay,  and  772  in  Harray.  These  two 
ancient  parishes,  which  were  united  under  the  earls 
of  Orkney,  originally  constituted  a  province  or  district 
called  "  Bergisherard,"  signifying,  in  the  Norwegian 
language,  lands  appropriated  to  the  diversion  of  hunting ; 
and  previously  to  the  rise  of  Kirkwall,  here  was  the 
residence  of  the  earls,  and  the  bishops,  of  Orkney. 
There  are  still  considerable  remains  of  the  episcopal 
palace,  occupying  a  beautiful  site  near  the  sea ;  by 
whom  it  was  originally  built,  is  not  distinctly  known, 
but  numerous  additions  were  made  to  it,  from  time  to 
time,  by  the  Sinclairs,  who  were  styled  indifferently 
princes  and  counts  of  Orkney.  It  was  subsequently 
enlarged  and  improved  by  Robert  Stuart,  brother  of 
Mary,  Queen  of  Scots  ;  and  above  the  principal  entrance, 
was  a  stone  bearing  an  inscription  to  that  effect,  with 
armorial  bearings,  and  the  motto  Sic  Fult,  Est,  et  Erit ; 
which  stone  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  Earl  of 
Morton,  to  whom  the  lands  were  sold,  and  from  whom 
they  were  afterwards  purchased  by  Sir  Lawrence  Dun- 
das,  ancestor  of  the  Earl  of  Zetland,  the  present  pro- 
prietor. The  parish  is  about  eleven  miles  in  extreme 
length,  and  eight  miles  in  extreme  breadth,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  the  sea;  on  the 
north  and  cast,  by  the  parishes  of  Evie,  Rendal,  and 
Vol.  I.— 129 


Firth  ;  and  on  the  south  and  west,  by  the  parish  of 
Sandwick,  and  Loch  Stenness.  The  surface,  towards 
the  west,  is  for  some  distance  level,  but  towards  the 
east  more  elevated,  rising  into  hills  of  considerable 
height.  It  is  diversified  with  several  lakes  of  great 
beauty,  abounding  with  trout  and  other  fresh-water  fish, 
and  frequented  by  numerous  kinds  of  aquatic  fowl ; 
and  the  lands  are  intersected  by  various  rivulets  and 
smaller  burns,  which,  for  want  of  bridges,  interrupt  the 
communication. 

The  soil  is  generally  fertile,  though  varying  in  different 
parts  of  the  district ;  that  of  the  lands  called  the  ba- 
rony of  Birsay,  is  a  mixture  of  clay  and  sand,  producing 
luxuriant  crops  of  oats  and  barley  ;  in  other  parts,  a 
deep  black  loam  prevails,  producing  grain  of  good 
quality,  and  also  potatoes  and  turnips.  Sea- weed,  of 
which  abundance  is  found  on  the  coast,  is  used  for 
manure ;  and  the  system  of  agriculture,  though  well 
adapted  to  the  present  state  of  the  farms,  might,  under 
a  different  tenure,  be  very  greatly  improved.  The  sub- 
strata are  principally  limestone  and  clay-slate,  the  latter 
of  which  is  quarried  for  pavements  and  roofing  ;  build- 
ing-stone is  also  found  here,  and  in  some  parts  of  the 
district  marble  and  alabaster  have  been  discovered. 
The  manufacture  of  straw-plat  is  carried  on  extensively, 
affording  employment  to  nearly  450  of  the  female 
population  ;  the  males  are  employed  in  agriculture  and 
in  the  fisheries.  There  are  twenty  boats  belonging  to 
Birsay,  which,  during  the  season,  are  engaged  in  the 
cod  and  lobster  fishery  ;  and  five  are  employed  in  the 
herring-fisheries  at  Stronsay  and  Wick,  whence  they 
generally  return  with  remunerating  success.  The  coast, 
however,  is  rocky  and  precipitous  ;  and  the  want  of 
a  convenient  harbour,  is  unfavourable  to  the  extension 
of  the  fisheries  of  the  place.  Fairs  for  cattle  and  horses 
are  hold  annually. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  the  presbytery  of  Cairston  and  synod  of  Orkney  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £2 IS.  6.  S.,  including  an 
allowance  of  £S.  6.  S.  for  communion  elements,  with  a 
manse  situated  at  Birsay,  and  two  glebes  valued  toge- 
ther at  £21  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Zetland. 
The  church  of  Birsay  is  an  ancient  building,  enlarged 
in  1760,  and  containing  565  sittings :  the  church  of 
Harray,  a  neat  plain  building,  erected  in  1S36,  contains 
400  sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  mem- 
bers of  the  Free  Church,  the  Original  Seceding  Congre- 
gation, and  Independents.  The  parochial  school  of 
Birsay  is  well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£26,  with  a  dwelling-house  and  garden.  A  school  at 
Harray,  also,  is  supported  by  the  General  Assembly, 
who  pay  the  teacher  a  salary  of  £25,  with  a  house  and 
garden,  and  other  perquisites  ;  and  there  is  a  parochial 
library,  containing  nearly  ISO  volumes,  chiefly  on  re- 
ligious subjects.  About  half  a  mile  from  the  site  of 
the  episcopal  palace,  is  the  brough  of  Birsay,  a  portion 
of  high  land  at  the  north-western  extremity  of  the 
parish,  formed  into  an  island  by  the  action  of  the  sea, 
and  to  which  access  by  land  is  obtained  only  at  low 
water.  From  some  remains  of  walls,  there  appears  to  .> 
have  been  an  ancient  fortress  on  the  spot,  though  when 
or  by  whom  erected  is  not  known  ;  a  chapel  dedicated 
to  St.  Peter,  was  subsequently  erected  on  the  site,  of 
which  the  only  remains  are  part  of  a  wall  and  one  of 
the  windows.     There  are  also  remains  of  ancient  Picts' 

S 


BIRS 


BISH 


houses,   and  upright   stones,   in  various   parts   of  the 
parish. 

BIRSE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kincardine 
O'Neil,  county  of  Aberdeen,  2f  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from 
Aboyne  ;  containing  1295  inhabitants.  This  place  was 
formerly  called  Press,  a  word  of  Gaelic  origin,  signifying 
a  wood  or  thicket,  and  most  probably  used  in  reference 
to  the  extensive  forest  and  woods  in  the  district.  The 
parish  is  situated  at  the  south-eastern  extremity  of  the 
county,  and  approaches  in  form  to  a  square,  varying 
in  length  from  eight  to  ten  miles,  and  in  breadth 
from  six  to  nine  or  ten  miles.  It  comprises  upwards  of 
40,000  acres,  of  which  about  3360  are  cultivated,  nearly 
4000  under  wood  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder 
wet  and  rocky,  a  large  part  of  which  is  too  rugged  to 
be  brought  under  the  plough.  The  surface  consists  of 
hills  and  mountains,  with  three  valleys  stretching  east- 
ward. The  valley  on  the  south  is  the  largest ;  and 
though  narrow,  bleak,  and  wild  at  its  western  extremity, 
where  it  is  called  the  forest  of  Birse,  about  five  miles 
further  it  begins  to  expand,  and  continues  to  improve 
in  its  scenery  from  this  point  to  its  termination,  at 
the  union  of  the  Feugh  with  the  Dee,  near  the  village 
of  Banchory,  in  Kincardineshire.  The  former  of  these 
rivers  waters  it  for  a  distance  of  many  miles,  and  much 
adorns  the  rich  and  beautiful  scenery  in  the  midst  of 
which  it  takes  its  departure  from  the  parish.  The 
valley  called  Glen-Chatt  is  smaller  than  the  former, 
and  is  watered  by  the  Cattie  burn  ;  and  the  third  strath 
forms  a  portion  of  the  vale  of  the  Dee,  but  is  divided 
into  two  parts  by  thejjburn  of  Birse,  and  ornamented  in 
its  centre  by  the  church  and  manse.  The  Grampians 
traverse  the  south  of  the  parish,  where  also  runs  the 
river  Aven,  and  one  of  the  range,  called  Mount  Geauach, 
rises  between  2000  and  3000"  feet  in  height,  and  gives 
to  the  locality  a  wild,  and  in  some  parts  a  romantic, 
appearance  ;  the  Dee  runs  along  the  northern  boundary, 
and  unites,  with  the  peculiar  features  of  that  portion 
of  the  parish,  to  render  its  scenery  most  attractive. 
The  moors  abound  with  grouse  and  a  great  variety 
of  wild-fowl,  and  the  rivers  and  mountain  streams  with 
trout ;  the  Dee  has  also  salmon,  grilse,  eel,  and  pike, 
and  the  lovers  of  angling  find  here  every  facility  for 
their  favourite  amusement.  The  soil  is  a  light  loam, 
in  many  parts  rather  gravelly,  and  takes  its  leading 
character  from  its  mixtures  of  decomposed  granite  and 
sand,  which  are  sometimes  clayey ;  oats  and  barley  are 
the  usual  grain  cultivated,  and  potatoes  and  turnips, 
with  grass  for  pasture  and  hay,  also  form  a  consider- 
able part  of  the  produce.  The  sheep  are  the  black-faced  ; 
the  cattle  are  much  mixed,  and  in  general  small  and 
of  inferior  quality,  but  the  kind  which  most  prevails  is 
the  Aberdeenshire  polled  and  horned ;  the  state  of 
husbandry  has  been  'considerably  improved  within  the 
last  twenty  years,  the  rotation  of  crops  having  been 
introduced,  with  a  few  other  modern  usages.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4106.  The  rocks 
comprise  granite,  a  blue  stone  called  heathen  stone,  and 
limestone,  of  which  last  there  are  two  or  three  quarries 
in  operation,  the  produce  being  used  generally  for 
agricultural  purposes ;  the  granite  is  found  in  large 
blocks  scattered  on  or  near  the  surface,  and  is  used  for 
building,  without  the  trouble  and  expense  of  quarrying, 
and  a  fine  specimen  of  red  porphyry  is  found  in  the 
river  Dee. 
130 


The  mansion  of  Finzean,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
parish,  and  in  the  vale  of  the  Feugh,  is  an  ancient 
structure,  built  in  the  form  of  three  sides  of  a  square  ; 
that  of  Ballogie,  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  district,  is 
a  neat  and  comfortable  residence,  partly  ancient,  and 
partly  modern,  and,  like  the  former,  surrounded  with 
well-laid  out  grounds  and  thriving  plantations.  The 
male  population  are  chiefly  engaged  in  husbandry, 
and  many  of  the  females  in  knitting  worsted  stockings, 
in  the  winter  season,  for  which  most  of  the  wool  pro- 
duced here  is  purchased,  carded  and  spun,  in  summer. 
A  suspension-bridge  over  the  Dee,  on  the  west,  was 
built  by  the  Earl  of  Aboyne,  in  1S28,  and  rebuilt  in 
1S30,  in  consequence  of  its  destruction  by  the  flood ; 
a  communication  is  thus  opened  with  the  north,  and 
another  bridge  over  the  Dee,  called  the  Bridge  of  Potarch, 
built  in  1813,  continues  the  road  from  Brechin  to 
Huntly  and  Inverness,  over  the  Cairn  o'  Mount  and 
Grampians  :  the  turnpike-road  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Dee,  from  Aberdeen  to  Braemar,  also  opens  an  im- 
portant means  of  intercourse.  Four  fairs  are  held  at 
Bridge  of  Potarch,  in  April,  May,  October,  and  Novem- 
ber, for  cattle,  sheep,  horses,  coarse  linen,  sacking,  &c, 
that  in  October  being  the  principal.  The  parish  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Kincardine  O'Neil  and  synod  of 
Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £158.  7-  4.,  a  portion  of  which  is 
received  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
of  four  acres.  The  church,  inconveniently  situated  in 
the  north-western  part  of  the  parish,  is  a  neat  substan- 
tial edifice,  erected  in  1779,  and  capable  of  accom- 
modating between  500  and  600  persons.  There  is  a 
Roman  Catholic  chapel  near  Ballogie.  The  parochial 
school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £28,  with  a  house,  £6.  10.  fees, 
and  an  allowance  from  the  Dick  bequest.  Another 
school  is  supported  by  money  derived  from  the  fund  of 
Dr.  Gilbert  Ramsay,  who  was  rector  of  Christ-church, 
Barbadoes,  and  left  £500  for  the  endowment  of  a  free 
school  in  this,  his  native  parish,  £500  to  the  poor,  and 
a  sum  for  the  erection  of  a  bridge  over  the  Feugh ;  a 
religious  library  was  established  in  1S29,  and  a  savings' 
bank  in  1S37.  The  chief  relic  of  antiquity  is  a  cas- 
tellated ruin  called  "  the  Forest,"  said  to  have  been 
erected  by  Bishop  Gordon,  of  Aberdeen,  for  a  hunting 
seat. 

BISHOPMILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  New 
Spynie,  county  of  Elgin  ;  containing  755  inhabitants. 
It  is  a  suburb  of  Elgin,  from  which  town  it  is  distant 
about  half  a  mile,  and  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  Los- 
sie,  the  former  course  of  which  river  was  nearer  the  town 
than  the  present  course.  The  village  is  included  within 
the  parliamentary  limits  of  the  borough  of  Elgin,  the 
cross  of  Bishopmill  being  the  extreme  northern  boun- 
dary. 

BISHOPSBRIDGE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of 
Cadder,  Lower  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  con- 
taining 213  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  the  western 
part  of  the  parish,  and  on  the  road  from  Glasgow  to 
Kirkintilloch.  An  infant  and  sewing  school  was  esta- 
blished here  by  Mrs.  Stirling,  and  is  at  present  sup- 
ported jointly  by  that  lady  and  Mr.  Stirling,  of  Caddar, 
who  have  built  a  good  house  for  the  residence  of  the 
mistress,  to  whom  they  pay  a  salary  of  £30,  which  is 
augmented  by  the  fees. 


B  L  A  C 


B  L  A  C 


BISHOPTON,  a  village,  ni  the  parish  of  Erskine, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew  ;  containing  315 
inhabitants.  It  is  a  modern  village,  situated  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  a  short  distance  north 
of  the  road  from  Port-Glasgow  to  Paisley;  and  a  post- 
office  under  the  latter  town,  has  been  established,  hav- 
ing three  daily  deliveries. 

BLACKBURN,  a  village,  chiefly  in  the  parish  of 
Livingstone,  but  partly  in  that  of  Whitburn,  county 
of  Linlithgow,  7  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Mid  Calder  ; 
containing  443  inhabitants.  This  village  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  river  from  which  it  derives  its  name, 
and  on  the  road  from  Glasgow  to  Edinburgh  ;  the  in- 
habitants are  partly  engaged  in  agricultural  pursuits, 
and  partly  in  the  cotton  manufacture,  for  which  there  is 
an  establishment,  affording  employment  to  about  120 
persons.  A  branch  office  has  been  established  here, 
under  the  post-office  at  Whitburn.  Subscriptions 
have  been  opened  for  the  erection  of  a  church  ;  in  the 
mean  time,  public  worship  takes  place  in  the  village 
school-room,  and  there  is  a  meeting-house  for  Inde- 
pendents. 

BLACKFORD,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth, 
4   miles   (S.  W.)   from  Auchterarder;    containing,   with 
part  of  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Ardoch,  17S2  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  547  are  in  the  village.     This  place  pro- 
bably derives  its  name  from  the  ancient  wordywd,  a 
way  ;   being  equidistant  from  the   towns   of  Perth  and 
Stirling,  between  which  it  formed  the  principal  line   of 
communication.     The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  the  river  Earn,  and  on  the  south  by  the  river  Devon, 
and  is  about  10  miles  in  length,  and  5  in  breadth.    The 
surface  is  considerably  varied   with  level   and   elevated 
grounds  ;   the  Ochil  hills,  of  which  the  sloping  accli- 
vities afford  excellent  pasturage  for  sheep,  intersect   the 
parish  towards  the  south,  and  the  low  lands  are  fertilized 
by  several  small  rivers,  which  add  much  to  the  beauty 
of  the  landscape.     Of  these,   the  river  Machany,  which 
rises  in  the  high  lands   of   the   parish    of  Mutb.il,   after 
flowing  through  this  parish,  falls  into  the  Earn  at  Kin- 
kell.     The  Ruthven,  which  has  its  source  at  Gleneagles, 
in  the  parish,  is  but  a   small  stream,  having  its   course 
through  the  glen  of  Kincardine  for  nearly  three  miles, 
when,  taking  an  easterly  direction,  it  flows  through  the 
parish  of  Auchterarder,  into  the  river  Earn ;  and  the 
river  Allen,  which  also  rises  at  Gleneagles,  takes  a  west- 
erly course  through  the    parish  of  Dunblane,   and   falls 
into  the  river  Forth.     The  soil,  especially  in  the  north- 
ern part  of  the  parish,  is  rich,  and  in  good  cultivation  ; 
the  system  of  agriculture  is  improved,  and  considerable 
portions    of  waste  land  have  been  reclaimed,  and  are 
at  present  under  tillage.     Much  attention  has  also  been 
paid  to  the  growth  of  plantations,  which  ;have  been  ex- 
tensively formed  on  the  wide  moor  of  Tullibardine,  and 
in  other  parts ;  the  principal  trees  of  older  growth  are, 
oak  and  birch.      At  Tullibardine,    are    still  remaining 
a  few  trees  of  a  plantation  of  thorn,  raised  by  a   ship- 
wright, in  commemoration  of  the  building  of  a  large 
ship  for  James  IV.,  in  which  he  had  been  employed. 
The  rateable  annual   value  of  the  parish  amounts   to 
£10,700. 

The  village  is  inhabited  principally  by  persons  en- 
gaged in  weaving,  and  the  manufacture  of  a  coarse  kind 
of  woollen-cloth  affords  employment  to  a   considerable 
number  ;  a  factory  has  been  erected,  in  which  machinery 
131 


has  been  introduced,  and  from  seventy  to  eighty  per- 
sons are  regularly  employed,  exclusively  of  many  who 
work  at  their  own  homes.  Two  fairs  are  held  annually  ; 
but  from  the  proximity  of  Auchterarder  and  other  mar- 
ket-towns, they  are  not  much  attended.  The  parish  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Auchterarder  and  synod  of  Perth 
and  Stirling;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £206.  11.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £18  per  annum.  The 
church,  built  in  1738,  and  recently  repaired,  is  adapted 
for  a  congregation  of  500  persons.  The  parochial 
school  affords  a  liberal  course  of  instruction;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  the  customary  fees, 
and  a  good  dwelling-house  and  garden.  There  are 
several  remains  of  ancient  military  works,  connected 
probably  with  the  Roman  camp  at  Ardoch,  to  which 
station  they  are  supposed  to  have  been  out-works ;  also 
numerous  cairns  and  tumuli  in  different  parts  of  the 
parish.  Some  remains  likewise  exist  of  the  castles  of 
Kincardine  and  Ogilvy,  the  walls  of  which  are  of  great 
thickness ;  and  at  Gleneagles  and  Tullibardine,  are  the 
remains  of  chapels.  The  lands  of  Tullibardine  give  the 
title  of  Marquess  to  the  Duke  of  Atholl. 

BLACKNESS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Carriden, 
county  of  Linlithgow,  3  miles  (E.)  from  Borrowstoun- 
ness;  containing  10"  inhabitants.  This  place,  formerly 
the  sea-port  of  Linlithgow,  and  the  residence  of  nume- 
rous merchants,  who  carried  on  an  extensive  trade  with 
Holland,  Bremen,  | Hamburgh,  and  Dantzic,  in  which 
they  employed  thirty-six  ships  of  large  burthen,  is  now 
an  inconsiderable  hamlet,  distinguished  only  by  its  royal 
castle,  which  is  one  of  the  four  Scottish  fortresses  kept 
in  repair  according  to  the  articles  of  the  union  of  the 
two  kingdoms.  The  harbour  and  quay  are  in  a  ruinous 
state ;  the  custom-house  has  been  converted  into  lodg- 
ings for  the  few  individuals  who,  during  the  summer, 
resort  to  this  deserted  spot  for  the  benefit  of  bathing  ; 
and  the  only  business  carried  on  is  the  occasional  ship- 
ping of  bricks  and  tiles  made  at  Brickfield,  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity,  and  the  landing  of  lime  and  manure. 
The  castle,  which  is  still  entire,  is  situated  on  a  pro- 
montory on  the  south  shore  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  near 
the  influx  of  the  Black  burn,  and  at  a  small  distance 
from  the  village;  and  is  supposed  to  occupy  the  site  of 
a  Roman  station  on  the  wall  of  Antonine,  which,  accord- 
ing to  most  writers,  terminated  at  this  place  ;  but  the 
date  of  the  present  structure  is  not  distinctly  known. 
In  14S1,  the  castle,  with  eight  ships  at  that  time  in  the 
harbour,  was  burnt  by  the  English  fleet ;  and  in  14S8, 
the  nobles  who  had  rebelled  against  James  III.,  held  a 
conference  with  that  monarch  here,  which  was  called 
the  "Pacification  of  Blackness."  In  1542,  Cardinal 
Beaton  was  imprisoned  in  the  castle,  by  the  Earl  of 
Arran,  then  regent,  but  he  was  soon  liberated,  through 
the  influence  of  the  clergy ;  and  after  the  battle  of 
Pinkie,  in  1547,  Lord  Clinton,  the  admiral  of  the  Eng- 
glish  fleet,  took  three,  and  burnt  seven,  of  the  vessels 
lying  in  the  harbour.  The  castle  was  garrisoned  by  the 
French  forces,  under  the  command  of  General  D'Esse, 
in  1548,  and  also  under  the  regency  of  Mary  of  Guise  ; 
but  in  1560,  it  was  taken  by  the  sheriff  of  Linlithgow. 
In  1571,  it  was  garrisoned  by  Claude  Hamilton,  a  zea- 
lous adherent  to  the  interests  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots  ; 
and  by  him  it  was  held,  in  her  name,  till  15*3,  when  it 
was  delivered  up  to  the  Earl  of  Morton,  then  regent. 
During  the  progress  of  the  Reformation,  and  the  con- 

S2 


B  L  A  I 


B  L  AI 


tests  that  arose  between  the  advocates  of  Presbytery  and 
Episcopacy,  the  castle  was  frequently  a  place  of  confine- 
ment for  the  non-conforming  clergy ;  and  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  18th,  and  earlier  part  of  the  19th  century, 
it  was  chiefly  occupied  by  French  prisoners  of  war. 
The  earls  of  Linlithgow  were  hereditary  constables  of 
the  castle,  till  1715,  when  that  office  was  forfeited,  on 
the  attainder  of  James  the  sixth  earl,  for  his  participa- 
tion in  the  Earl  of  Mar's  rebellion.  There  are  a  gover- 
nor and  a  lieutenant-governor  attached  to  the  castle, 
neither  of  whom  is  resident ;  and  the  garrison,  till 
lately,  consisted  of  two  gunners,  a  Serjeant,  two  cor- 
porals, and  fifteen  privates  ;  but,  at  present,  the  only 
inmates  are  an  inferior  officer  and  his  family.  The 
buildings  consist  of  a  principal  tower,  with  ramparts 
commanding  the  entrance,  and  a  court-yard,  and  have 
accommodation  for  100  men. 

BLACKRIDGE,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  chiefly 
in  the  parish  of  Torphichen,  county  of  Linlithgow, 
3  miles  (N.)  from  Bathgate  ;  containing  900  inhabitants, 
of  whom  94  are  in  the  village.  This  parish  included 
portions  of  the  civil  parishes  of  Torphichen,  Shotts, 
Bathgate,  Slamannan,  and  New  Monkland  ;  the  village 
is  situated  at  the  west  end  of  the  first-named  parish, 
near  the  river  Avon,  and  the  inhabitants  are  employed 
in  agriculture,  and  in  the  mines  and  quarries  in  the 
neighbourhood.  The  church  was  erected  by  subscrip- 
tion, in  1S38,  and  is  a  neat  structure,  containing  400 
sittings  ;  the  minister  derives  a  stipend  of  about  £60, 
from  the  seat-rents  and  collections.  The  parochial  school 
is  well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £29,  the 
proceeds  of  bequests,  and  100  merks,  together  nearly 
£35;  and  the  fees  average  about  £11.  A  parochial 
library  has  been  established. 

BLADNOCH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  and  county  of 
Wigton,  1  mile  (S.)  from  Wigton  ;  containing  215 
inhabitants.  This  village  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  river  Bladnoch,  over  which  is  a 
bridge,  connecting  it  with  the  parish  of  Kirkinncr,  on 
the  south.  An  extensive  distillery  has  been  established 
for  the  making  of  whisky,  in  which  about  twenty  per- 
sons are  constantly  employed,  and  which  annually  con- 
sumes about  16,000  bushels  of  barley.  There  is  also  a 
small  salmon-fishery  carried  on  here,  and  various  kinds 
of  white  fish  are  taken  in  the  bay. 

BLAIR-ATHOLL,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth, 
20  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Dunkeld;  containing,  with 
part  of  Tenandry  quoad  sacra  parish,  2231  inhabitants. 
This  place,  of  which  the  name,  in  the  Gaelic  language, 
signifies  "the  plain  of  Atholl,"  comprises  the  four  an- 
cient parishes  of  Blair,  Lude,  Kilmaveonaig,  and  Strowan, 
united  into  one  parish  in  the  early  part  of  the  17th  cen- 
tury. In  the  reign  of  James  V.,  that  monarch,  with  his 
mother,  and  the  pope's  legate,  were  entertained  at  Blair 
Castle  with  great  hospitality,  by  the  Earl  of  Atholl, 
who,  for  their  diversion,  accompanied  them  in  a  cele- 
brated hunt  on  the  north  side  of  the  mountain  Beinn- 
ghlo.  The  castle  afterwards  became  the  head-quarters 
of  Viscount  Dundee,  in  the  memorable  battle  of  Killie- 
crankie,  which  took  place  on  the  fields  of  Runrory,  on 
the  north  side  of  Girnag  mountain.  It  was,  indeed,  fre- 
quently occupied  as  an  important  military  station,  not 
only  during  the  times  of  feudal  warfare,  but  also  in  the 
rebellion  of  1745,  and  in  1746  was  garrisoned  with  a 
force  of  300  men,  under  the  command  of  Sir  Andrew 
132 


Agnew,  whom  the  Duke  of  Cumberland,  on  his  arrival 
at  Perth,  had  despatched  to  take  up  his  quarters  here, 
and  so  cut  off  all  communication  between  the  northern 
and  southern  parts  of  the  country.  In  order  to  gain 
possession  of  this  station,  Lord  George  Murray,  accom- 
panied by  several  officers  of  the  Highland  army,  and 
with  a  force  of  100  men,  was  sent  to  surprise  the  castle, 
which,  from  its  scanty  supply  of  provisions,  he  attempted 
to  reduce  by  famine ;  and  having  made  prisoners  of  all 
the  detached  out-posts,  he  took  up  his  head-quarters  in 
the  village,  and  closely  blockaded  the  castle.  But,  after 
having  reduced  the  garrison  to  the  last  extremity,  he 
suddenly  raised  the  blockade,  and  returned  to  join  the 
army  of  the  Pretender,  at  Inverness  ;  and  on  the  follow- 
ing day,  the  garrison  were  relieved  by  the  Earl  of  Craw- 
ford, and  received  the  thanks  of  the  Duke  of  Cumber- 
land, for  their  gallant  defence. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Grampian 
hills,  and  is  about  thirty  miles  in  length,  and  eighteen 
miles  in  average  breadth,  comprising  105,000  acres  of 
hill  pasture,  3000  arable  land  under  cultivation,  and 
2500  woods  and  plantations.  The  surface  is  finely 
varied  with  hills  and  valleys  ;  on  both  sides  of  the  river 
Garry,  is  an  extensive  and  fertile  plain,  constituting  the 
vale  of  Garry,  and  extending  from  the  pass  of  Killie- 
crankie  to  Strowan,  terminating  in  hills  of  which  the 
slopes  are  under  cultivation,  and  the  summits  clothed 
with  heather.  In  the  Grampian  range  are  several  lofty 
mountains,  of  which  Beinn-ghlo,  Beinn-mheadhonaidh, 
Beinn-chait,  and  Beinn-deirg  are  the  principal ;  the 
mountain  Beinn-ghlo,  which  stands  upon  a  base  many 
miles  in  circumference,  has  four  detached  summits,  of 
which  one  has  an  altitude  of  3720  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  the  others  are  little  inferior  in  height. 
The  surface  is  also  diversified  with  lakes,  of  which  one 
of  the  chief  is  Loch  Garry,  near  the  boundary  of  the 
counties  of  Perth  and  Inverness  ;  it  is  inclosed  on  all 
sides  by  hills  of  lofty  elevation,  and  is  about  six  miles 
in  circumference,  abounding  with  trout  of  excellent 
quality.  Loch  Tummel  is  a  picturesque  sheet  of  water, 
four  miles  in  length,  and  nearly  a  mile  in  breadth,  taste- 
fully embellished  with  an  island  of  artificial  formation, 
on  which  are  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  and  inclosed  with 
banks  richly  cultivated,  and  interspersed  with  small 
hamlets  ;■  this  lake  also  abounds  with  pike  and  trout  of 
the  largest  size.  The  river  Garry  issues  from  the  lake 
of  that  name,  and,  after  a  course  of  nearly  thirty  miles, 
in  which  it  receives  the  streams  of  the  Erichkie,  Bruar, 
and  Tilt,  falls  into  the  Tummel,  at  the  south-eastern 
extremity  of  the  parish  ;  the  Tummel  has  its  source  in 
Loch  Tummel,  and  urges  its  rapid  and  impetuous  course 
but  for  a  short  way  through  the  parish.  The  river  Tilt, 
from  the  loch  of  that  name,  on  the  summit  of  the  Gram- 
pian range,  after  a  course  of  sixteen  miles,  flows  into 
the  Garry  at  Blair,  and,  in  its  progress,  displays  a  suc- 
cession of  beautifully  picturesque  scenery.  Almost  all 
the  rivers  form  interesting  cascades  ;  the  falls  of  the 
Garry,  obstructed  in  its  course  by  shelving  rocks,  are 
peculiarly  interesting,  and  those  of  the  Tummel  are 
magnificently  grand,  from  the  vast  body  of  water  which 
is  precipitated  from  rocks  clothed  to  their  summits  with 
stately  birch-trees.  The  Bruar,  also,  descending  from 
a  height  of  many  feet,  forms  a  succession  of  cataracts, 
rendered  still  more  striking  from  the  beauty  of  the  sur- 
rounding scenery.    v 


BLAI 


B  L  A  I 


The  son,  is  various;  in  the  valleys,  and  on  the  slopes 
of  the  hills,  a  light  loam,  or  a  gravelly  soil,  prevails, 
and  the  more  elevated  lands  are  mossy.  The  chief  crops 
are,  different  kinds  of  grain,  and  turnips,  for  which  lat- 
ter the  soil  is  well  adapted,  and  of  which  large  quan- 
tities are  raised ;  the  farm-houses  are  generally  well 
built,  and  considerable  improvements  have  been  made 
in  husbandry,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Atholl  Club, 
which  distributes  annual  prizes  for  the  promotion  of 
agriculture  and  the  breed  of  stock.  The  cattle  are 
usually  of  the  black  Highland  breed,  to  the  rearing  of 
which  great  attention  is  paid  ;  about  1200  milch  cows 
are  regularly  pastured,  and  30,000  sheep  are  annually 
fed,  all  of  the  black-faced  breed.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £11,S47.  Atholl  forest,  formerly 
enjoying  many  privileges,  is  partly  in  the  parish,  and 
about  12,000  head  of  red  deer  are  found  within  its 
limits.  The  natural  woods  situated  in  the  parish  are 
principally  oak,  ash,  birch,  alder,  and  aspen;  and  the 
plantations,  which  are  very  extensive,  consist  of  Scotch 
firs,  spruce,  and  larch,  with  lime,  elm,  and  plane  trees,  of 
which  there  are  some  very  fine  specimens  in  the  park  of 
Blair.  The  substratum  is  chiefly  limestone,  part  of  the 
great  vein  extending  from  near  Callender  to  Braemar, 
and  is  quarried  for  manure  and  other  purposes,  but  not 
in  sufficient  quantity  for  the  lands,  in  consequence  of 
the  scarcity  of  fuel  for  burning  it ;  marble,  also,  of 
various  colours  is  abundant,  especially  a  vein  of  green 
colour,  much  esteemed  for  mantel-pieces  and  other  orna- 
mental purposes. 

Blair  Castle,  already  noticed,  the  baronial  seat  of  the 
Murray  family,  and  the  residence  of  Lord  Glenlyon,  is  a 
spacious  well-built  structure,  supposed  to  have  been 
erected  by  John  Cumin,  of  Strathbogie,  who  became  Earl 
of  Atholl  in  right  of  his  wife  ;  in  1750,  it  was  reduced 
by  the  taking  down  of  two  stories,  and  converted  into  a 
family  mansion.  It  contains  a  handsome  suite  of  state 
apartments,  but  its  castellated  appearance  has  been  lost, 
by  the  removal  of  its  turrets  ;  it  is  inclosed  in  a  very 
extensive  park,  embellished  with  ancient  timber  and 
thriving  plantations,  and  the  grounds,  which  are  laid 
out  with  great  taste,  command  a  rich  variety  of  scenery. 
Her  Majesty  and  Prince  Albert,  on  their  second  visit  to 
Scotland,  spent  three  weeks  at  this  place,  in  September 
1S44  ;  the  castle  was  prepared  by  Lord  Glenlyon  for 
Her  Majesty's  reception,  and  he  introduced  to  the  royal 
notice  the  most  remarkable  features  of  the  vicinity. 
Lude  House,  a  spacious  modern  mansion,  likewise 
within  the  parish,  occupies  an  elevated  site,  and  forms 
an  interesting  feature  in  the  scenery  of  the  Garry ;  Auch- 
leeks  is  also  a  handsome  modern  mansion,  pleasantly 
situated.  A  post-office  has  been  established,  which  has 
a  daily  delivery;  and  fairs  are  held  at  Blair-Atholl,  on 
the  2nd  of  February  for  general  traffic,  and  the  third 
Wednesday  in  May  for  horses  and  cattle  ;  at  Tilt  Bridge, 
on  the  25th  of  June  and  the  20th  of  August  (O.  S.)  for 
cattle  ;  and  at  Trinafour,  on  the  third  Tuesday  in  March 
(O.  S.),  for  horses,  and  the  Wednesday  in  October  be- 
fore the  tryst  of  Falkirk,  for  cattle.  The  parish  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Dunkeld  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stir- 
ling ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  about  £200,  with  a 
manse,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at  £150  per  annum. 
The  parochial  church  is  a  handsome  and  substantial 
edifice,  of  modern  erection,  adapted  for  650  persons, 
and  the  churchyard  is  spacious ;  a  church  was  erected 
133 


in  the  Strowan  district,  in  1829,  for  a  congregation  of 
450  persons,  and  divine  service  is  performed  on  two 
consecutive  Sundays  at  Blair-Atholl,  and  every  third 
Sunday  at  Strowan.  The  old  church  of  Kilmaveonaig 
was  rebuilt  in  1791,  and  appropriated  as  a  place  of  wor- 
ship by  the  Episcopalians  ;  and  there  is  also  a  meeting- 
house for  Baptists.  The  parochial  school  affords  educa- 
tion to  about  a  hundred  scholars  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  £30  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden. 
There  are  vestiges  of  an  old  religious  establishment  on 
the  banks  of  the  Tilt,  called  Cill  Aindreas,  consisting 
chiefly  of  sepulchral  remains  ;  and  in  various  parts  of 
the  parish  are  upright  stones,  the  remnants  of  Druidical 
circles,  near  some  of  which  are  traces  of  ancient  ceme- 
teries. The  walls  of  the  church  of  Lude  are  also  still 
remaining. 

BLAIR  LOGIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Logie, 
county  of  Perth,  2  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Stirling  ;  con- 
taining 124  inhabitants.  This  village,  situated  at  the 
foot  of  the  Ochil  hills,  is  celebrated  for  its  beauty  and 
cleanliness,  and  the  salubrity  of  its  air,  and  is  much 
visited  by  invalids,  for  its  goat's-whey  ;  it  contains  a 
small  library  belonging  to  the  parish,  and  there  is  a 
place  of  worship  connected  with  the  Relief  denomination. 
On  the  heights  is  the  Castle  of  Blair-Logie,  now  occupied 
by  a  farmer. 

BLAIRBURN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Ctjlross, 
county  of  Perth  ;    containing  85  inhabitants. 

BLAIRDAFF,  Aberdeen.- — See  Garioch. 

BLAIRGOWRIE,  a  burgh,  market-town,  and  pa- 
rish, in  the  county  of  Perth,  5S  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from 
Edinburgh  ;  containing  3700  inhabitants,  of  whom  2600 
are  in  the  town.  The  term  Blair  is  of  doubtful  etymo- 
logy, by  some  supposed  to  be  derived  from  a  Gaelic 
root  signifying  a  mossy  locality,  and  by  others  thought 
to  come  from  a  word  denoting  the  scene  of  a  battle  or 
of  war  :  Gowrie  was  the  ancient  denomination  of  the 
district  in  which  the  parish  is  situated,  and  has  been 
used  as  an  affix  to  distinguish  it  from  several  other 
places  of  the  name  of  Blair.  The  town  stands  not  far 
from  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  county,  bordering  on 
Forfarshire,  and  on  a  pleasant  eminence  on  the  western 
bank  of  the  river  Ericht,  forming  the  first  step  of  the 
acclivity  of  the  hill  of  Blair.  From  its  secluded  and 
remote  neighbourhood,  it  has  been  free  from  the  colli- 
sions of  the  great  political  and  religious  tumults  which 
have  been  felt  so  frequently  and  extensively  throughout 
the  country,  the  only  historical  recollection  noted  of 
this  kind  being  the  passage  of  the  celebrated  Montrose 
through  the  place,  in  one  of  his  hostile  descents  into 
the  valley  of  Strathmore.  But  what,  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  present  century,  was  a  small,  quiet,  and 
inconsiderable  village,  has  since  grown  into  a  bustling 
manufacturing  and  market  town  ;  and  not  only  the  in- 
habitants of  this  spot,  but  those  of  the  parish  generally, 
have  exchanged  their  rural  for  a  commercial  character, 
and  the  peasantry  have  given  place  to  artizans,  partly 
through  the  breaking  up  of  the  cottar  system,  by  the 
consolidation  of  small  farms,  but  chiefly  through  the 
extensive  introduction  of  manufactures.  About  forty 
years  since,  the  village  consisted  of  small,  unsightly 
thatched  houses,  collected  in  the  vicinity  of  the  church  ; 
but  it  now  contains  some  good  streets,  well  lighted  with 
gas,  supplied  by  a  joint-stock  company  established  in 
1834;    and  its  new  and  attractive  character  has,   for 


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some  time,  been  gradually  drawing,  from  the  other 
parts  of  the  parish,  a  considerable  portion  of  the  people 
to  take  up  their  residence  here.  It  is  approached  by 
several  good  roads  from  different  quarters ;  but  the 
most  considerable  is  the  great  north  road  from  Perth  to 
Fort-George,  which  enters  the  parish  at  the  southern 
boundary,  about  two  miles  distant,  and  crosses  the 
Ericht  a  little  way  from  the  town,  by  the  bridge  of 
Blairgowrie.  This  river,  forming  the  eastern  boundary 
of  the  parish  for  ten  miles,  is,  in  connexion  with  its 
bridges  and  roads,  a  lively  and  interesting  feature  in 
the  strikingly  beautiful  scenery  which  is  commanded 
by  the  well-cultivated  hill  of  Blair ;  it  has  its  course 
through  diversified  and  romantic  combinations  of  woods 
and  rocks,  and  falls  into  the  Isla  at  Cupar-Grange.  The 
hill  of  Blair,  immediately  behind  the  town,  is  orna- 
mented with  the  church,  and  skirted  by  a  deep  well- 
wooded  ravine  stretching  down  abruptly  nearly  to  the 
river.  From  the  churchyard,  a  view  of  the  first  order  is 
obtained,  embracing  the  whole  valley  of  Strathmore,  in 
the  northern  portion  of  which  part  of  the  parish  lies,  and 
terminated  on  the  east  by  the  Hunter  hill  of  Glammis, 
and  on  the  south  by  the  picturesque  chain  of  the  Sid- 
laws.  Near  the  town,  are  the  mansions  of  Newton  and 
Ardblair,  large  structures  in  the  castellated  style,  the 
former  commanding  beautiful  and  extensive  prospects 
over  Strathmore,  and  being  itself  seen  as  a  conspicuous 
object  from  several  parts  ;  and  not  far  distant,  is  Blair- 
gowrie House,  a  large  edifice,  situated  on  the  low  grounds 
to  the  south  of  the  town,  the  whole  of  the  vicinity  of 
which  partakes  of  that  varied  and  rich  scenery  charac- 
teristic of  the  lower  or  southern  division  of  the  parish, 
the  northern  district  exhibiting  the  features  of  a  high- 
land locality. 

The  spinning-wheel,  formerly  so  much  in  use  here, 
has  been  entirely  superseded  by  machinery  ;  and  there 
are  at  present  in  operation,  worked  by  water-power, 
five  mills,  employing  about  200  hands,  who  are  engaged 
in  the  spinning  of  flax  and  tow  into  yarn.  The  flax 
used  is  imported  into  Dundee  from  the  Baltic,  and,  after 
being  spun,  is  either  taken  to  the  former  places  for  sale, 
or  disposed  of  to  manufacturers  in  the  neighbourhood, 
and  in  Alyth  and  Cupar-Angus.  The  value  of  flax 
annually  consumed  at  three  mills  near  the  town,  is  from 
£20,000  to  £26,000  per  annum,  and  the  value  of  yarn 
spun  at  the  same  mills,  from  £33,000  to  £36,000. 
About  350  persons  are  occupied  in  weaving  yarn,  by 
hand-looms,  into  cloth  of  different  fabrics,  consisting  of 
fine  dowlas  and  drill,  but  especially  Osnaburghs  and 
coarse  sheetings ;  and  these  are  sold  at  Dundee,  though 
sometimes  shipped,  on  the  part  of  the  manufacturer, 
direct  to  North  and  South  America  and  France.  The 
only  other  branch  of  trade  carried  on  is  that  of  salmon- 
fishing,  which,  however,  is  in  a  very  low  state,  the  rental 
for  the  whole  course  of  the  Ericht,  from  the  Keith  to 
the  boundary  of  the  parish,  being  only  £21.  12.  per 
annum.  This  change  from  its  former  extent,  which  was 
very  considerable,  is  owing  partly  to  the  circumstance 
of  there  being  fisheries  on  the  Tay  and  Isla,  and  partly 
to  the  erection  of  the  numerous  mills  on  the  river, 
which  in  summer  drain  off  nearly  the  whole  of  the 
water.  A  general  post-office  is  established  in  the  town  • 
and  besides  the  road  from  Perth  to  Fort-George,  already 
noticed,  there  is  a  road  from  Blairgowrie  to  Cupar- 
Angus,  made  turnpike  in  1332,  which  quits  the  parish 
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about  two  miles  south  of  the  town  ;  and  the  line  of  road 
from  Kirriemuir,  Forfar,  and  other  places,  to  Dunkeld, 
passes  through  the  town,  in  crossing  the  parish  from 
east  to  west.  A  market,  which  is  well  attended,  is  held 
on  Wednesday,  in  alternate  weeks,  during  winter  and 
spring,  for  cattle  and  grain  ;  and  there  are  annual  fairs 
in  the  town,  on  the  third  Wednesday  in  March  ;  the 
26th  of  May,  if  it  fall  on  Wednesday,  if  not,  the  first 
Wednesday  after  ;  the  23rd  July  ;  the  first  Wednesday 
in  Nov. ;  the  22nd  Nov.,  or  first  Tuesday  after ;  and 
the  Wednesday  before  Falkirk  tryst.  Blairgowrie  was 
erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony  by  charter  from  Charles  I., 
dated  9th  July,  1634,  in  favour  of  George  Drummond, 
then  proprietor  of  the  estate  ;  and  in  the  year  1809,  the 
town  was  created  a  free  burgh  of  barony  by  a  charter 
from  Colonel  McPherson,  the  superior,  and  the  bur- 
gesses were  empowered  to  elect  a  bailie  and  four  coun- 
cillors for  the  management  of  the  affairs  of  the  burgh. 
The  bailie,  and  two  of  the  councillors,  vacate  their 
offices  every  two  years  ;  and  their  places  are  filled  up  by 
the  burgesses.  The  police  is  in  accordance  with  the 
general  police  act,  and  under  the  controul  of  the  chief 
magistrate  and  four  commissioners,  the  latter  being 
annually  elected  by  the  £10  householders;  but  the 
provisions  of  the  act  respecting  watching  and  paving 
have  not  been  adopted,  the  householders  being  bound 
by  their  charter  to  take  the  watching  by  turns,  them- 
selves personally,  or  to  provide  substitutes.  There  are 
two  cells  in  the  lower  story  of  the  town-house,  used  as  a 
prison,  for  the  punishment  of  offenders  within  the  juris- 
diction of  the  burgh  magistrate.  The  town  is  one  of 
the  seats  of  the  quarterly  sheriff-court,  under  the  Small 
Debt  act,  and  a  polling-place  for  the  county  parliamen- 
tary elections. 

The  parish  consists  of  a  principal  portion,  about 
seven  miles  long,  and  one  and  a  half  mile  in  average 
breadth,  and  of  two  detached  parts.  One  of  these,  lying 
north-west  of  the  large  division,  and  separated  by 
branches  of  the  parishes  of  Kinloch  and  Bendochy, 
contains  a  tract  on  each  side  of  the  river  Ardle,  consist- 
ing of  the  estates  of  Blackcraig,  Wester-Cally,  and 
Whitehouse,  and  part  of  the  district  of  the  forest  of 
Cluny,  covering  altogether  about  four  squai'e  miles ;  the 
other,  called  Creuchies,  situated  to  the  north-east,  and 
separated  by  the  parish  of  Rattray,  contains  about  two 
square  miles.  The  total  number  of  acres  in  the  parish 
is  estimated  at  about  16,000  or  17,000,  of  which  about 
10,000  are,  or  have  been,  cultivated,  5000  are  waste  and 
pasture,  and  the  remainder  wood  and  plantations,  com- 
prising alder,  birch,  hazel,  mountain-ash,  larch  to  a 
considerable  extent,  and  Scotch  fir,  though  none  of  the 
trees  attain  to  very  great  size,  from  the  nature  of  the 
soil.  The  parish  comprehends  the  two  divisions  called 
highland  and  lowland,  separated  from  each  other  by  a 
branch  of  the  Grampian  range  ;  the  former  is  hilly,  and 
is  the  northern  boundary  of  the  vale  of  Strathmore,  but 
the  surface  of  the  latter,  which  belongs  to  that  vale,  is 
tolerably  equal,  and  replete  with  that  beautiful  and 
richly- diversified  scenery  for  which  the  whole  sweep  of 
country  is  so  highly  celebrated.  The  Ardle  and  Black- 
water  streams,  partly  skirting  the  northern  division, 
unite  near  the  bridge  of  Cally,  and  form  the  principal 
river,  the  Ericht,  which,  in  the  vicinity  of  Craighall, 
passes  through  some  of  the  most  wildly  romantic  por- 
tions of  the  district,  the  beauties  of  which  supplied  the 


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author  of  Waverley  with  some  of  the  principal  features 
in  the  description  of  Tully-Veolan.  The  parish  is  partly 
bounded  on  the  south  by  the  Lunan ;  and  the  Lornty, 
after  flowing  for  some  distance,  falls  into  the  Ericht 
about  half  a  mile  above  the  town.  These  streams  abound 
with  trout;  pike,  perch,  and  eels  are  plentiful  in  all  the 
lochs,  six  in  number,  and  the  loch  of  Stormont  is  also 
frequented,  in  summer,  by  swarms  of  sea-gulls,  which 
build  among  the  reeds  and  rushes,  and  supply  large 
quantities  of  eggs. 

The  southern  and  most  cultivated  division,  stretching 
southward  from  the  hill  of  Blair,  for  four  miles,  to  the 
middle  of  the  valley  of  Strathmore,  exhibits  great  diver- 
sity of  soil,  comprising  stiff  clay,  moss,  rich  loam  near 
the  town,  and  alluvial  earth,  the  last,  on  the  bank  of  the 
river,  being  the  most  fertile.  In  this  division,  is  the 
muir  of  Blair,  a  tract  comprehending  about  1000  acres, 
chiefly  covered  with  thick  plantations  of  Scotch  fir,  be- 
yond which,  to  the  south,  the  soil,  though  thin  and 
light,  is  mostly  under  cultivation.  All  kinds  of  grain 
and  green  crops  are  raised,  and  a  considerable  revenue 
is  derived  from  pastures  and  the  thinning  of  woods ; 
the  sheep  kept  here  are  not  bred  in  the  parish,  but  are 
purchased  in  autumn,  and  fattened  with  turnips  eaten 
off  the  ground  in  winter,  for  sale  in  the  following  spring. 
Much  improvement  has  taken  place  in  the  stock  of 
cattle,  by  crossing  the  native  cows  with  the  short- 
horned  bulls,  and  large  quantities  are  annually  fed  for 
the  Glasgow  and  Falkirk  markets.  The  husbandry  is 
of  a  superior  kind,  all  the  modern  usages  having  been 
introduced,  and  draining  and  inclosing  have  been  prac- 
tised to  a  great  extent.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £9291.  The  rocks  consist  chiefly  of  grey- 
wacke,  greenstone,  and  sandstone ;  the  last,  which  is  a 
coarse  red  conglomerate,  is  extensively  quarried  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  town,  and  there  are  several  other  quar- 
ries in  different  parts,  including  one  of  clay-slates,  not 
now  in  operation.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Meigle  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns,  and  in  the 
alternate  patronage  of  William  McPherson,  Esq.,  of 
Blairgowrie,  and  James  Blair  Oliphant,  Esq.,  of  Gask 
and  Ardblair.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £19.9..  18.,  with 
a  manse,  rebuilt  in  1S3S,  with  the  offices,  at  a  cost  of 
upwards  of  £500,  and  the  glebe  comprises  9i  acres, 
valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The  church,  built  in  ]  S24, 
on  the  site  of  the  old  edifice,  on  an  eminence  close  to 
the  town,  contains  1000  sittings,  a  few  of  which  are 
free.  A  chapel,  accommodating  600  persons,  in  con- 
nexion with  the  Established  Church,  and  situated  in 
Brown's-street,  was  purchased  for  the  sum  of  £400,  of 
the  Burgher  congregation  who  had  before  used  it,  and 
was  opened  in  183".  The  money  for  the  purchase,  with 
the  exception  of  £100  granted  by  the  Church-extension 
Committee,  was  raised  by  subscription,  and  the  minister's 
salary,  amounting  to  above  £140,  is  derived  from  seat- 
rents  and  collections.  There  are  also  a  Roman  Catholic 
chapel,  and  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church  and  Independents  ;  and  a  handsome  edifice  has 
been  just  erected  in  the  early  English  style,  consisting 
of  a  nave  and  chancel,  for  the  use  of  a  congregation  in 
connexion  with  the  Episcopal  church ;  it  is  named  St. 
Catharine's,  and  was  founded  at  the  expense  of  the 
pastor,  the  Rev.  John  Marshall,  who  has  ornamented 
the  chancel  with  an  elegant  window  of  stained  glass. 
Attached  to  it,  is  a  library  containing  many  works  of 
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science  and  general  literature,  for  the  use  of  all  denomi- 
nations. The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the 
usual  branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4., 
and  £60  fees.  The  late  Mr.  George  Barty,  tobacconist 
at  Perth,  and  a  native  of  this  place,  who  died  in  1838, 
bequeathed  £1400  for  the  education  of  poor  children 
belonging  to  this  parish,  and  those  of  Rattray,  Bendo- 
chy,  and  Kinloch,  in  the  parochial  school  of  Blairgowrie. 
The  antiquities  comprise  several  ancient  cairns,  and  the 
ruins  of  the  castle  of  Glasclune,  formerly  the  property  of 
the  Blairs,  and  of  that  of  Drumlochy,  the  seat  of  the 
Herons  ;  the  buildings  are  near  each  other,  and  be- 
tween the  possessors  a  feud  once  raged,  ending  in  the 
ruin  of  the  latter.  A  chalybeate  spring,  called  the 
"  Heugh  well,"  situated  in  a  cliff,  is  found  of  great 
benefit  in  cutaneous  and  dyspeptic  complaints. 

BLAIRINGONE,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  chiefly 
in  the  parish  of  Fossoway  and  Tulliebole,  county  of 
Perth  ;  containing  574  inhabitants,  of  whom  210  are  in 
New,  and  79  in  Old,  Blairingone,  10  miles  (W.)  from  Kin- 
ross. This  parish,  of  which  the  name  implies  "the  Field 
of  Spears,"  included  portions  of  the  parishes  of  Muckart, 
Dollar,  and  Clackmannan,  and  was  seated  on  the 
river  Devon,  and  the  road  between  Alloa  and  Kin- 
ross. Coal  is  abundant,  and  several  mines  are  at  pre- 
sent in  operation  ;  ironstone,  of  which  the  produce  is 
of  very  superior  quality,  is  also  wrought ;  and  some 
veins  of  an  ore  supposed  to  contain  a  considerable  pro- 
portion of  suiphur  have  lately  been  discovered.  In  the 
parish  are  several  handsome  residences,  among  which 
are,  Devonshaw,  a  modern  building  in  the  Elizabethan 
style,  beautifully  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
Devon  ;  and  Arndean.  The  village  is  in  the  south- 
western part  of  the  parish,  and  is  chiefly  inhabited  by 
the  work-people  of  the  collieries.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  were  under  the  presbytery  of  Auchterarder  and 
synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling  ;  the  minister  was  appointed 
by  the  heads  of  families  :  the  church  is  a  neat  plain 
building,  erected  in  1S36,  by  subscription,  aided  by  a 
grant  from  the  General  Assembly's  Church-extension 
Committee.  There  is  a  congregation  of  members  of 
the  Free  Church,  who  assemble  in  a  building  of  hand- 
some design,  erected  in  1S43  as  a  school  for  all  denomi- 
nations. On  the  banks  of  the  Devon  is  a  remarkable 
spring  issuing  from  among  strata  of  ironstone,  and 
used  medicinally. 

BLAIRMORE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Kenhoee, 
county  of  Perth  ;   containing  21  inhabitants. 

BLANTYRE,  a  parish,  in  the  Middle  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark  ;  including  the  villages  of  Auchin- 
raith,  Auchintiber,  Barnhill,  Blantyre,  Blantyre-Works, 
Hunthill,  and  Stonefield ;  and  containing  3047  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  1464  are  in  the  village  of  Blantyre-Works, 
and  264  in  that  of  Blantyre,  or  Kirkton,  3  miles  (N.  W.) 
from  Hamilton,  and  8|  (S.  S.  E.)  from  Glasgow.  The 
lands  formerly  belonged  to  the  Dunbars,  of  Enteckin, 
in  which  family  they  remained  till  the  Reformation, 
when  they  were  purchased  by  Walter  Stewart,  sou  of 
Lord  Minto,  treasurer  of  Scotland,  upon  whom,  on  the 
suppression  of  monastic  establishments,  the  ancient 
priory  of  this  place  was  bestowed  by  James  VI.,  who 
also  created  him  Lord  Blantyre.  The  priory  is  said  to 
have  been  founded  by  Alexander  II.,  as  a  cell  to  the 
abbey  of  Jedburgh,  or,  according  to  Spottiswoode,  of 
Holyrood  House ;   and  Walter,  who  was  prior  at  that 


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time,  was  one  of  the  commissioners  appointed  to  nego- 
tiate for  the  ransom  of  David  Bruce,  the  Scottish  king, 
who  had  been  made  prisoner  by  the  English,  in  the 
battle  of  Durham,  in  1346.  The  remains  of  the  priory, 
which  are  very  inconsiderable,  are  situated  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a  high  rock  on  the  bank  of  the  river  Clyde,  oppo- 
site to  the  ruins  of  Bothwell  Castle  ;  and  little  more 
than  one  of  the  vaults,  which  is  still  entire,  with  two 
gables,  and  a  portion  of  the  outer  walls,  is  remaining. 
The  buildings  were  of  red  granite;  and  the  ruins  form, 
in  combination  with  the  castle,  an  interesting  feature  in 
the  scenery. 

The  parish  extends  for  six  miles  in  length,  from 
north  to  south,  and  varies  greatly  in  breadth,  not  ave- 
raging more  than  one  mile  in  the  whole  ;  it  comprises 
4170  acres,  of  which,  excepting  200  acres  of  moss  land 
and  plantations,  all  is  arable.  The  principal  rivers 
are,  the  Clyde,  which  enters  the  parish  at  a  short  dis- 
tance below  Bothwell  bridge,  and  forms  a  boundary 
between  this  place  and  the  parish  of  Bothwell  for  about 
three  miles,  flowing  majestically  between  lofty  banks 
richly  clothed  with  wood  ;  and  the  Calder,  which  enters 
the  parish  near  Rottenburn,  and,  after  forming  several 
picturesque  falls,  in  its  course  along  the  western  boun- 
dary, flows  into  the  Clyde  near  Daldowie.  The  tributary 
streams  are,  the  Redburn,  which  has  its  source  in  the 
lands  of  Park  farm,  and  joins  the  Clyde  near  Bothwell 
bridge  ;  and  two  other  rivulets,  one  rising  in  the  lands 
of  Shott,  and  one  at  Newmain,  which  also  fall  into  the 
river  Clyde.  Salmon  are  taken  in  abundance  near  the 
mill-dam  of  Blantyre.  The  scenery  is,  in  many  parts, 
exceedingly  beautiful ;  the  parish  is  generally  well 
wooded,  and  diversified  with  gently  undulating  emi- 
nences and  fertile  dales.  The  soil  is  various,  being  in 
some  parts  a  fine  rich  loam,  in  others  a  strong  clay,  and 
in  others  sand,  with  some  portions  of  moss ;  the  system 
of  agriculture  is  improved,  and  good  crops  of  various 
kinds  of  grain  are  raised.  Great  improvement  has  been 
made  in  draining  the  lands,  and  a  considerable  tract 
called  Blantyre  moor,  formerly  a  common,  has  been 
subdivided,  and  brought  into  cultivation;  the  farm 
houses  and  buildings  are  of  superior  order.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £82S0.  Peat  for  fuel 
is  cut  on  Edge  Moss,  and  coal,  of  which  the  veins  are 
but  very  thin,  is  worked  at  Calderside  and  Rottenburn  ; 
limestone  of  a  quality  well  adapted  for  building,  and 
for  agricultural  purposes,  is  wrought  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  parish.  Ironstone,  also,  is  abundaut,  and  at 
Black-Craig,  on  the  borders  of  the  parish,  not  less  than 
seventeen  different  seams  are  seen,  superincumbent  on 
each  other ;  the  ironstone  is  worked  in  the  parish  of 
Kilbride,  where  are  the  openings  of  the  mines,  but  the 
strata  lie  principally  in  this  parish. 

The  principal  village  is  situated  on  an  eminence  over- 
looking the  river  Clyde,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful 
country,  embellished  with  timber  of  venerable  and 
stately  growth.  It  appears  to  have  attained  its  present 
importance  and  extent,  from  the  introduction  of  the 
cotton  manufacture  by  Messrs.  Dale  and  Monteith,  who, 
in  1785,  erected  a  mill  for  the  spinning  of  cotton-yarn, 
and,  in  the  year  1791,  another  for  the  making  of  mule 
twist.  In  1813,  Messrs.  Monteith  and  Company  erected 
a  weaving  factory,  in  which  the  number  of  looms  has, 
since  that  time,  increased  from  450  to  nearly  600  ;  and 
around  these  works,  giving  profitable  employment  to  a 
136 


large  number  of  the  population,  the  present  village  has 
been  erected.  In  the  two  spinning-mills,  which  are 
both  worked  by  water  power,  are  30,000  spindles,  afford- 
ing occupation  to  about  500  persons  ;  and  in  the  weav- 
ing establishment,  the  works  of  which  are  driven  partly 
by  water  power,  and  partly  by  steam,  are  600  power- 
looms,  in  the  management  of  which  more  than  300 
persons  are  regularly  employed.  In  connexion  with 
these  works,  is  an  establishment  for  dyeing  cotton-yarn 
with  the  Turkey  red.  The  total  number  of  persons 
employed  in  all  the  departments,  is  nearly  1000,  of 
whom  more  than  500  are  females  ;  the  houses  in  the 
village  are  comfortable  and  neatly  built,  and  it  is 
watched  and  cleansed  by  persons  paid  by  the  company, 
who  have  also  built  a  public  washing-house,  and  appro- 
priated a  large  bleach  green,  on  the  banks  of  the  Clyde, 
for  the  use  of  the  inhabitants,  who  are  supplied  with 
hard  and  soft  water,  for  domestic  use,  by  force-pumps 
at  the  factory.  A  library  has  been  for  some  years  esta- 
blished, which  contains  an  extensive  collection  of  useful 
volumes. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton  and 
synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
about  £184,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £16 
per  annum.  The  parish  church,  which  is  not  in  good 
repair,  was  erected  in  1793,  and  will  only  hold  about 
300  persons.  There  is  a  chapel  at  the  Blantyre  Mills, 
erected  by  the  company  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  work-people  employed  there,  and  containing  sit- 
tings for  400  persons ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  paid, 
one-half  by  the  proprietors  of  the  works,  and  the  other 
half  from  the  seat-rents.  A  place  of  worship  has  been 
erected  for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  The  paro- 
chial school  affords  a  liberal  education;  the  salary  of 
the  master  is  £26,  with  £  1 9  fees.  There  is  also  a  school 
for  the  children  of  the  workpeople  at  the  mills,  to  which 
purpose  the  chapel  is  applied,  during  the  week ;  the 
master  is  appointed  by  the  company,  who  give  him  a 
house  and  garden  rent  free,  and  a  salary  of  £20.  An- 
cient urns  have  been,  at  various  times,  discovered  in 
several  parts  of  the  parish  ;  some  of  these  were  inclosed 
in  a  kind  of  kistvaen,  covered  by  heaps  of  loose  stones, 
and  contained  ashes,  with  remnants  of  half-burnt  bones 
scattered  round  them.  Within  the  last  few  years,  a 
stone  coffin  was  discovered,  containing  an  urn  of  baked 
earth,  in  which  was  a  skull  with  the  teeth  nearly  entire 
and  in  good  preservation  ;  and  fragments  of  six  larger, 
and  more  richly  ornamented,  urns  were  found  in  ano- 
ther part  of  the  same  field,  which  is  now  called  "  Archers 
Croft."  Stone  coffins  have  also  been  found  at  Lawhill 
and  Greenhall,  and  other  places  situated  within  the  limits 
of  the  parish.  At  Calderside,  is  a  large  hill  called  the 
Camp-Know,  of  conical  form,  600  feet  in  circumference 
at  the  base,  and  surrounded  by  a  moat ;  and  near  it  is  a 
kind  of  subterraneous  cavern  of  flags.  At  Park  farm  is 
a  fine  spring,  which  has  long  been  in  high  repute  for 
the  cure  of  scorbutic  affections  and  diseases  of  the  eye  ; 
it  is  strongly  impregnated  with  sulphur,  combined  with 
muriate  and  sulphate  of  lime,  and  was  formerly  much 
resorted  to  by  numerous  invalids  from  Glasgow  and  its 
neighbourhood.  There  are  also  various  mineral  springs 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  Calder.  The  late  John  Miller, 
Esq.,  professor  of  law  in  the  university  of  Glasgow, 
resided  for  some  years  at  Milheugh,  in  the  parish,  and 
was  buried  in  the  churchyard. 


DOHA 


B  O  H  A 


BLEBO-CRAIGS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kem- 
back,  district  of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of  Fife,  |  a  mile 
(S.  E.)  from  Kemback  ;  containing  234  inhabitants.  It 
lies  a  short  distance  to  the  north  of  the  road  from  Ceres 
to  St.  Andrew's.  On  the  estate  of  Blebo,  a  vein  of  lead- 
ore  was  discovered  in  1/22,  and  was  worked  for  some 
time,  but  relinquished  in  consequence  of  the  expense. 
In  the  vicinity  are  extensive  mills.  Blebo  House  is  an 
elegant  mansion,  surrounded  by  fine  plantations. 

BLUE-ROW,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  New  Kil- 
patrick,  county  of  Dumbarton  ;  containing  53  inha- 
bitants. 

BLUEVALE,  a  village,  in  the  ecclesiastical  district 
of  Camlachie,  Barony  parish,  county  of  Lanark.  It 
is  a  suburb  of  the  city  of  Glasgow,  and  one  of  the  divi- 
sions recently  separated  from  Barony  parish  ;  and  con- 
sists chiefly  of  small  cottages,  irregularly  built,  and 
occupied  by  hand-loom  weavers  and  day-labourers. 
There  are  five  schools  connected  with  this  place  and  the 
other  divisions  of  Camlachie,  Keppoch  Hill,  and  Lady- 
well,  which  are  attended  by  about  300  children. 

BOARHILLS,  a  village,  in.  the  parish  and  district 
of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of  Fife,  4  miles  (S.  E.)  from 
St.  Andrew's  j  containing  155  inhabitants.  It  is  situated 
on  the  eastern  coast,  and  southern  point  of  St.  Andrew's 
bay  ;   a  little  northward  of  it,  is  Mount  Budda  rock. 

BODDAM,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Peterhead, 
district  of  Buchan,  county  of  Aberdeen,  3  miles  (S.) 
from  Peterhead  ;  containing  596  inhabitants.  This 
place  anciently  belonged  to  a  branch  of  the  Keith  family, 
who  had  a  strong  baronial  castle,  situated  on  a  rock 
overhanging  the  sea,  and  of  which  there  are  still  consi- 
derable remains.  The  village,  which  is  on  the  eastern 
coast,  near  the  headland  of  Buchanness,  is  inhabited 
chiefly  by  persons  employed  in  the  fisheries,  which  are 
carried  on  to  a  great  extent,  there  being  two  small  har- 
bours, separated  only  by  a  beach  of  pebbles,  of  which 
the  shore  here  mainly  consists.  In  the  haddock-fishery, 
commencing  in  March,  and  continuing  till  July,  twenty- 
two  boats,  of  four  men  and  a  boy  each,  are  engaged,  and, 
during  the  season,  each  boat  takes  generally  about  30,000 
fish,  which  are  cured,  and  dried  upon  the  rocks,  and  sell 
at  from  £3  to  £4  per  thousand.  The  herring-fishery 
begins  in  July,  and  continues  till  September,  and  em- 
ploys twenty-three  larger  boats,  with  crews  of  six  men 
each  ;  and  the  quantity  of  fish  taken  during  the  season, 
averages,  when  sold,  about  £100  for  each  boat.  There 
are  twelve  boats  employed  during  the  winter  months,  in 
the  cod  and  white  fishery  ;  the  fish  are,  cod,  ling,  skate, 
and  turbot,  and  from  1200  to  1S00  are  taken  by  each 
boat,  and  produce  from  £30  to  £40.  The  fish  cured 
here  obtain  a  decided  preference  in  the  markets,  and 
especially  the  haddocks,  which  from  being  dried  on  the 
rocks,  are  perfectly  free  from  sand.  The  village  has 
been  greatly  extended  and  improved  ;  and  a  harbour  of 
greater  capacity  is  now  being  constructed,  which  will 
have  a  greater  depth  of  water  than  that  of  Peterhead, 
and  of  which  the  approach  will  be  rendered  safe  by  the 
lighthouse  on  Buchanness. 

BOGHEAD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Lesmahago, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark;  containing  198 
inhabitants.  It  is  in  the  northern  part  of  the  parish, 
and  on  the  road  between  Lesmahago  and  Strathaven. 

BOHARM,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county  of 
Elgin,  but  chiefly  in  that  of  Banff,  6  miles  (W.)  from 
Vol.  I. — 137 


Keith;  containing  1261  inhabitants.  The  original  word 
Bucharin,  or  Bocharin,  from  which  Boharm  has  been 
formed,  is  said  to  signify  "  the  bow  or  bend  about  the 
hill."  It  was  correctly  applied  to  this  locality,  on 
account  of  the  cultivated  part  consisting  chiefly  of  a 
valley,  stretching  in  a  circular  form  around  the  north, 
east,  and  south  sides  of  the  mountain  of  Benagen, 
which  rises  abruptly  from  the  Spey  river,  the  boun- 
dary line  of  the  district  on  the  west.  A  church  for- 
merly stood  on  the  estate  of  Arndilly,  called  the 
church  of  Artendol,  and  it  appears  that,  about  the 
year  1215,  one  of  the  family  of  Freskyn  de  Moravia, 
who  had  large  estates  here,  granted  to  the  cathedral 
of  Moray,  "  the  church  of  Artendol,  with  all  its  per- 
tinents, excepting  the  corn-tithes  of  the  two  Davochs, 
which  lay  next  to  his  castle  of  Bucharin."  It  is  there- 
fore conjectured  that  the  old  parish  was  named  Artendol, 
and  that,  upon  the  ruin  of  the  church  there,  the  chapel 
of  the  castle  of  Bucharin  was  used  in  its  stead,  as  the 
parochial  church,  in  consequence  of  which  the  parish  was 
called  Bucharin.  The  parish  was  augmented  in  1/S8, 
to  the  extent  of  about  one-third,  by  the  annexation  of 
part  of  the  suppressed  parish  of  Dundurcus,  lying  on 
the  east  of  the  river  ;  the  whole  measures  about  twelve 
miles  in  extreme  length,  and  four  at.  its  greatest  breadth, 
comprising  4739  acres'  under  tillage,  besides  a  large 
extent  of  wood,  mountain-pasture,  and  waste.  The  lofty 
eminence  of  Benagen,  situated  about  the  middle  of 
the  parish,  and  attaining  an  elevation  of  1500  feet 
above  the  sea,  occupies  so  large  a  portion  of  the  surface, 
as  to  render  the  valley  at  its  base  comparatively  nar- 
row. At  its  summit  level,  the  valley  is  about  400  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  from  this  height  gradually  descends 
towards  each  extremity,  when  it  abruptly  falls  into  the 
valley  of  the  Spey.  The  sides  of  the  vale  are  cultivated 
for  a  considerable  distance  upwards,  as  well  as  the  bed  ; 
and  the  southern  and  eastern  sides  of  the  mountain, 
nearly  half  way  up,  have  been  brought  under  tillage. 

The  Fiddich,  a  stream  of  some  magnitude,  flowing 
between  beautifully-wooded  banks,  forms  a  confluence 
with  the  Spey  near  the  bridge  of  Craigellachie,  from 
which  point  to  the  distance  of  a  mile  above  the  village 
of  Fochabers,  the  latter  river  separates  this  parish  from 
Rothes.  Both  these  streams  are  subject  to  violent 
floodings,  and  often,  by  the  sudden  and  irresistible 
impulse  of  their  waters,  destroy  the  bridges,  crops, 
tenements,  and  almost  every  thing  in  their  way.  A 
very  ancient  bridge,  chiefly  of  wood,  formerly  crossed 
the  Spey,  near  the  influx  of  the  Orchil,  and  was  sup- 
posed to  have  been  constructed  by  the  Romans  under 
Severus ;  but  no  remains  of  it  have  been  visible  for 
many  years,  and  the  passage  was  afterwards  accom- 
plished by  a  ferry-boat.  An  establishment  called  the 
hospital  of  St.  Nicholas  stood  near  it,  on  the  Boharm 
side  of  the  river,  founded  in  the  beginning  of  the  13th 
century,  by  Muriel  de  Pollock,  heiress  of  Rothes,  and 
dedicated  to  God,  the  Virgin,  and  St.  Nicholas,  for  the 
reception  of  poor  passengers.  Andrew,  Bishop  of 
Moray,  granted  to  the  hospital  the  church  of  Rothes, 
with  its  pertinents,  and  Alexander  II.,  in  1232,  endowed 
it  with  a  chaplaincy.  It  is  supposed  that  the  bridge 
was  kept  in  repair  by  this  house,  and  that,  about  the 
time  of  the  Reformation,  the  structure  either  fell  to 
decay,  or  was  destroyed  by  a  flood,  and,  having  lost  its 
means  of  support,   was  not  renewed ;  the  ruins  of  the 

"    T 


B  O  H  A 


BOIN 


hospital  were  removed,  and  a  new  bridge  built,  a  few 
years  since,  at  a  cost  of  £3500,  on  the  suspension  prin- 
ciple, with  a  span  of  235  feet.  The  burn  of  Orchil, 
formed  by  a  collection  of  the  waters  of  the  lower 
part  of  the  district  where  a  valley  from  Keith  eastward 
opens  into  the  circular  valley,  runs  rapidly  through 
a  rocky  and  romantic  channel,  into  the  Spey,  at  Boat 
of  Bridge  ;  and  the  rivulet  Aldernie  conveys  the  waters 
of  the  upper  district  to  the  Fiddich.  These  streams 
abound  with  trout,  which,  as  well  as  grilse  and  salmon, 
are  also  found  in  the  Spey. 

The  soil  in  some  parts  is  gravelly,  and  in  others 
sandy,  but  is  more  frequently  clayey,  and  very  reten- 
tive of  moisture  ;  all  sorts  of  grain  are  raised,  though 
the  wheat  is  in  small  quantity,  and  most  kinds  of 
grasses  and  green  crops.  Much  attention  is  paid  to 
turnips,  the  growth  of  which  has  lately  increased, 
and  large  applications  of  bone-manure  have  been  made, 
with  great  success ;  lint  also  is  cultivated,  but  oats  are 
the  staple  article,  and  are  of  excellent  quality,  the 
other  grain  being  comparatively  inferior.  Lime  is  ex- 
tensively used  for  agi'icultural  purposes,  and  draining 
and  the  improvement  of  waste  land  have  been  carried 
on  with  spirit ;  but  good  inclosures  and  farm-buildings 
are  still  much  needed,  though,  in  several  parts,  the 
latter  have  been  greatly  improved.  The  black-cattle, 
which  are  small  in  size,  are  chiefly  the  Highland  and 
Aberdeenshire,  and  the  sheep  are  the  Leicesters  and 
Lintons,  the  former  kept  on  the  lower,  and  the  latter 
on  the  higher,  grounds  ;  there  are  some  sheep,  also, 
of  the  large  English  breed,  valued  for  the  wool.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3/64.  Gneiss 
is  the  prevailing  rock  in  the  southern  portion  of  the 
district  ;  talc-slate  is  found  in  the  principal  valley,  and 
up  to  the  summit  of  the  hills,  traversed  by  veins  of 
quartz,  and  by  a  strip  of  primitive  limestone,  originating 
in  the  great  limestone  formation  of  Banffshire.  This  last 
is  wrought  for  agricultural  use,  and  also  for  building, 
being  well  adapted  for  the  latter  purpose,  on  account  of 
a  siliceous  mixture.  The  rocks  in  the  valley  of  the  Spey 
are  gneiss  and  quartz,  in  some  places  overlaid  by  a  large 
deposit  of  red  clay  and  gravel,  spreading  itself  extensively 
in  several  directions  ;  boulders  of  granite  and  hornblende 
are  numerous,  and  supply  an  excellent  material  for  build- 
ings.    Mica-slate  is  also  found. 

The  woods  and  plantations  form  a  prominent  feature 
in  the  scenery,  and  comprise  almost  every  description  of 
trees  grown  in  the  country.  In  the  south-west  corner 
of  the  parish,  on  the  bank  of  the  Spey,  is  the  mansion- 
house  of  Arndilly,  occupying  an  eminence  once  the  site 
of  the  church,  the  remains  of  which  were  removed  to 
make  way  for  the  present  residence,  and  the  ancient 
glebe  now  forms  part  of  the  lawn  before  the  mansion. 
It  is  situated  in  a  recess  of  Benagen,  nearly  surrounded 
by  wood,  with  the  river  in  front,  and  commanding  fine 
views.  The  only  other  mansion  is  Auchlunkart,  a  spa- 
cious residence  in  the  midst  of  plantations,  and  enlivened 
by  a  pleasing  brook  ;  it  has  a  colonnade  and  portico  in 
the  Grecian  style,  and  a  conservatory,  attached  to  the 
southern  portion,  communicating  with  the  drawing- 
room.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Aberlour  and 
synod  of  Moray,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown  and 
the  Earl  of  Fife ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  returned  at 
£244.  16.  7-,  with  a  manse,  built  in  1811,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £22. 10.  per  annum.  The  church  stands  nearly 
138 


in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  was  erected,  in  the 
year  1793,  upon  the  boundary  line  of  the  old  parish 
and  the  annexed  portion  of  Dundurcus  ;  it  accommo- 
dates 700  persons.  The  parochial,  or  grammar,  school 
affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  5.,  with  a  house,  £17  fees,  and  a 
portion  of  the  Dick  bequest,  The  parish  also  contains 
a  parochial  library,  and  a  savings'  bank,  instituted  in 
1821.  The  castle  of  Bucharin,  now  Galval,  supposed 
to  have  been  built  by  the  Freskyns,  is  the  chief  anti- 
quity, consisting  of  a  fine  ruin,  situated  on  an  eminence 
between  the  brooks  Aldernie  and  Fiddich  :  silver  spoons 
were  found  under  it,  some  years  since ;  and  lately,  from 
beneath  a  stone  in  the  floor  of  the  oratory,  a  silver  ring 
was  taken  up,  on  which  was  a  small  shield,  with  two 
martial  figures.  James  Ferguson,  the  celebrated  astro- 
nomer, received  the  rudiments  of  his  education  here  ;  he 
died  in  the  year  17  66. 

BOINDIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Banff,  3  miles 
(W.)  from  Banff;  containing,  with  the  village  of  White- 
hills,  1501  inhabitants.  This  place,  from  which  Banff 
was  disjoined  about  the  year  1635,  was  anciently  called 
Inverboindie,  signifying  "  the  mouth  of  the  Boindie," 
in  consequence  of  the  situation  of  the  old  church,  now 
in  ruins,  near  the  spot  where  the  small  stream  of  the 
Boindie  falls  into  the  sea.  The  word  Boindie  is  sup- 
posed to  be  a  diminutive  of  Boyn,  the  name  of  a  larger 
stream  bounding  the  parish  on  the  west.  The  parish  is 
bounded  by  the  Moray  Frith,  and  is  nearly  of  triangular 
form,  the  northern  line  measuring  between  two  and  three 
miles,  the  south-eastern  about  five  miles  and  a  half,  and 
the  western  boundary  between  four  and  five  miles.  It 
comprises  5000  Scottish  acres,  of  which  3600  are  culti- 
vated, 600  plantations,  and  the  remainder  uncultivated, 
waste,  and  pasture.  The  surface  is  level,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  fine  cultivated  valley  of  the  Boindie,  and 
is  but  little  elevated  above  the  sea ;  the  coast,  on  the 
north,  is  in  general  rocky,  with  a  portion  of  sandy 
beach,  and  at  the  eastern  extremity  is  the  Knockhead, 
a  headland  running  out  into  a  reef  of  rocks,  visible  at 
half-tide,  called  the  Salt-Stones.  Here  the  coast  turns 
southerly,  forming  one  side  of  a  bay ;  and  the  shore  be- 
tween this  point  and  the  part  where  the  Boindie  empties 
itself  into  the  sea,  measures  something  less  than  a  mile, 
and  consists  of  a  beach  of  sand  and  gravel.  The  har- 
bours are,  one  situated  at  the  fishing  village  of  White- 
hills,  of  small  extent,  with  about  ten  feet  depth  of  water 
at  spring  tides,  used  for  two  or  three  vessels  employed 
in  the  herring-fishery,  and  the  importation  of  salt,  coal, 
&c. ;  and  another  a  little  to  the  east,  affording  also 
accommodation  for  the  prosecution  of  the  herring  and 
salmon  fishings,  and  for  the  exportation  of  tiles. 

The  climate,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  parish,  is 
humid  and  bleak,  but  in  the  opposite  part  dry  and  salu- 
brious. The  soil  most  prevalent  is  a  light  earth,  on  a 
retentive  subsoil,  the  exceptions  being  certain  tracts 
in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  chiefly  clay  and  loam 
of  rich  quality,  and  some  land  in  the  eastern  portion 
consisting  of  a  deep,  black,  sandy  mould  on  a  porous 
subsoil,  which  produces  heavy  and  early  crops.  This 
parish  was  one  of  the  first  in  the  north  of  Scotland  in 
which  the  system  of  alternate  crops,  and  turnip  hus- 
bandry, were  practised,  having  been  introduced  here 
about  the  year  1754,  by  the  last  Earl  of  Findlater,  at 
that  time   Lord  Deskford,  who  also  formed  the  older 


13  O  I  N 


BOLE 


plantations  in  the  place.  Oats  and  bailey  are  the  prin- 
cipal kinds  of  grain,  and  among  the  green  crops,  the 
cultivation  of  turnips  receives  much  attention.  The 
range  of  pasture  is  limited,  but  1000  head  of  oxen  are 
annually  grazed,  comprising  the  polled  Buchan  and 
Banffshire  horned  breeds,  with  some  crosses  with  the 
Teeswater  stock,  many  of  which  are  fed  for  the  London 
market.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£4168.  The  rocks  comprise  greywacke,  primitive  lime- 
stone, slate,  and  hornblende;  and  to  the  east  of  Whitehills, 
is  a  diluvial  clay,  in  extensive  beds,  containing  specimens 
of  belemnites,  cornua  ammonis,  &c,  and  supplying  ma- 
terial for  a  brick  and  tile  work.  The  wood,  consisting, 
for  the  most  part,  of  Scotch  fir,  with  sprinklings  of 
larch,  beech,  and  other  trees,  is  generally  in  a  thriving 
condition ;  and  there  are  some  portions  of  hard-wood 
near  the  ancient  castle  of  Boyn,  which,  being  favoured 
by  shelter  and  a  superior  soil,  are  in  an  exceedingly 
flourishing  state.  This  mansion,  the  family  seat  of 
the  Ogilvies  till  the  transfer  of  the  estates  to  the 
ancestor  of  the  present  owner,  at  the  beginning  of  the 
last  century,  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish,  on  the  Boyn  water,  and  is  now 
ruinous.  The  surrounding  scenery,  among  which  are 
visible  the  remains  of  a  more  ancient  mansion,  is  highly 
picturesque ;  and  attached  to  the  castle  is  an  orchard, 
abounding  in  black  and  white  wild  cherries.  The  bleach- 
ing and  preparation  of  threads  and  stockings  for  market, 
were  formerly  carried  on  to  some  extent,  but  the  only 
work  connected  with  manufactures  now  existing  is  a 
wool-carding  mill,  on  the  burn  of  Boyn,  attached  to 
which  are  works  for  the  weaving  and  dyeing  of  cloth. 
There  are  also  a  saw-mill,  a  lint-mill,  a  flour  and  barley 
mill,  and  several  meal-mills.  The  turnpike-road  from 
Banff  to  Portsoy  and  Inverness  runs  through  the  parish, 
from  east  to  west,  and  a  branch  shoots  off  to  Keith 
and  Huntly,  besides  which  there  are  several  good 
county  roads,  and  numerous  bridges  over  the  streams, 
for  facility  of  communication.  A  cattle-fair  has  been 
recently  instituted  at  Ordens,  and  is  held  eight  times 
yearly. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Fordyce  and  synod 
of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Sea- 
field  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £204.  19.  3.,  with  an 
excellent  manse,  just  built,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £12  per 
annum.  The  church,  accommodating  600  persons,  was 
erected  in  1773  :  the  ruin  of  the  old  edifice  still  re- 
mains, with  its  burial-ground,  and  stands  on  a  site  near 
the  sea,  where  a  battle  with  the  Danes  is  supposed  to 
have  taken  place,  in  the  reign  of  Malcolm  II.,  to  whose 
personal  friend,  St.  Bovenden,  or  Brandon,  a  monk,  the 
edifice  was  dedicated.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church 
and  the  Wesleyans  have  places  of  worship.  The  paro- 
chial school  affords  instruction  in  Greek,  Latin,  and 
mathematics,  in  addition  to  the  usual  branches  ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £25.  12.  4.,  and  £22.  12.  fees, 
and  also  shares  in  the  Dick  bequest.  The  Rev.  James 
Stewart,  a  native  of  the  parish,  left,  in  1S09,  a  sum  now 
amounting  to  £390,  the  produce  to  be  equally  divided 
for  the  support  of  six  poor  persons,  and  for  the  educa- 
tion of  six  boys,  who  are  natives.  There  are  several 
remains  of  Druidical  circles,  cairns,  and  military  works  ; 
and  various  relics  of  antiquity  have,  at  different  times, 
been  found,  the  most  interesting  of  which  are,  a  short 
Roman  sword,  deposited  in  the  armoury  at  Duff  House, 
139 


and  a  seal,  composed  of  fine  clay-slate,  marked  with  the 
arms  of  Bishop  James  Kennedy,  who  founded  the  uni- 
versity of  St.  Andrew's.  Thomas  Ruddiman,  the  well- 
known  author  of  a  Latin  grammar,  was  a  native  of  the 
parish. 

BOLE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Fiescobie,  county 
of  Forfar  ;  containing  17  inhabitants. 

BOLESKINE  and  ABERTARFF,  a  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Inverness;  containing  the  village  and  post- 
town  of  Fort-Augustus,  131  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Edin- 
burgh; and  comprising  1876  inhabitants.  The  name 
of  Boleskine  has  usually  been  traced  to  the  Gaelic  term 
Bail-os-cionn,  which  signifies  "  the  town  hanging  above 
the  loch"  (Loch  Ness).  Another  derivation,  however,  has 
been  assigned  to  it,  by  which  it  is  identified  with  the  com- 
pound term  Boile-eas-ceann ;  ceann  signifying  "height" 
or  "  summit,"  eas  a  "  cataract,"  and  boile  "  fury,"  which, 
taken  together,  would  mean  "  the  summit  of  the  furious 
cascade,"  viz.,  the  fall  of  Foyers.  The  whole  of  the 
parish,  previously  to  the  fifteenth  century,  was  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Lovat  family  ;  and  before  that  period,  it  is 
supposed  to  have  been  possessed  by  the  Cummins,  a 
very  powerful  and  warlike  clan ;  the  place  of  Fort- 
Augustus  being  still  called,  in  the  common  language  of 
the  district,  Kilkhuiman,  or  "the  burial-place  of  the 
Cummins."  Strath-herric,  a  district  of  Boleskine,  was 
anciently  possessed  by  the  clan  Grant,  the  time  and 
cause  of  whose  departure  are  uncertain.  Before  the 
year  1545,  the  parish  is  said  to  have  been  occupied  by 
the  tribes  of  Mc  Gruer,  Me  Imesheir,  and  Mc  Tavish,  re- 
tainers of  the  Lovat  family,  and  the  principal  of  whom, 
having  accompanied  Lord  Lovat,  in  his  expedition  to 
settle  the  heir  of  the  Clanronald  family  in  his  father's 
estate,  were,  in  their  return  from  the  Hebrides,  inter- 
cepted at  the  east  end  of  Lochlochy,  by  the  clan 
McDonald,  and  almost  extirpated.  The  numerous  off- 
spring descended  from  the  Frasers  killed  in  that  en- 
gagement, in  process  of  time,  spread  throughout  the 
parish ;  and  Foyers  is  now  the  seat  of  the  representa- 
tive of  this  ancient  and  powerful  clan.  The  parish  is 
twenty-one  miles  long,  and  about  ten  broad,  and  its  sur- 
face is  considerably  diversified  throughout.  The  district 
of  Strath-herric  consists  of  flat  lands,  with  a  few  undu- 
lations, near  which  is  a  great  extent  of  hilly  ground,  and 
in  the  eastern  quarter  is  a  range  of  high  hills  called 
Monadhliath  :  tracts  of  low  land  are  to  be  seen  in  other 
parts,  suited  to  the  growth  of  oats,  barley,  and  potatoes. 
There  are  about  twelve  lakes,  exclusive  of  Loch  Ness, 
which  is  twenty-four  miles  long,  and  about  one  mile 
and  a  half  broad,  and  bounds  the  parish,  on  the  north, 
for  fourteen  miles  :  this  lake,  in  the  middle,  is  from  106 
to  130  fathoms  deep,  and  near  the  sides  from  65  to  75, 
and,  from  its  great  depth,  never  freezes  :  the  ground 
around  rises  to  a  considerable  height,  and  is  ornamented 
with  a  variety  of  trees.  In  Abertarff,  are  two  streams 
that  fall  into  Loch  Ness,  named  Oich  and  Tarff,  which 
latter  gives  name  to  the  district  of  Abertarff;  and  there 
are  two  celebrated  cascades  in  the  parish,  formed  by 
the  same  river,  within  less  than  half  a  mile  of  each, 
other,  and  known  by  the  name  of  the  fall  of  Foyers,  the 
grandeur  and  magnificence  of  which,  increased  by  the 
sublimity  of  the  surrounding  scenery,  can  be  adequately 
conceived  by  those  only  who  have  beheld  the  spectacle. 
The  soil  exhibits  all  the  varieties  of  gravel,  clay,  till, 
loam,  and  peat-moss,  and  is  generally  of  a  poor  or  mid- 

T2 


BOLT 


BONA 


dling  character  ;  the  parish  is  mainly  devoted  to  the  rear- 
ing of  sheep,  of  which  about  30,000  are  kept,  all  of  the 
Cheviot  breed,  and  the  wool  is  sold  chiefly  to  wool- 
staplers  in  the  north  of  England.  The  greater  part  of 
the  district  is  without  inclosures,  but  good  farm-build- 
ings have  been  erected  on  the  principal  lands,  where, 
also,  good  fences  are  seen  :  the  rocks  consist  of  blue 
and  red  granite,  which  exists  in  large  quantities,  and 
limestone  is  also  plentiful,  but  not  much  wrought.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5SS7.  There  is 
a  salmon-fishery,  which  lets  for  £30  a  year.  Annual 
fairs  are  held  at  Fort-Augustus,  in  the  beginning  of 
June  and  end  of  September,  chiefly  for  the  sale  of  cattle, 
but  at  which,  also,  some  traffic  is  carried  on  by  pedlers 
and  others  ;  and  occasional  trysts  take  place  in  spring 
and  autumn,  for  black  cattle.  The  only  turnpike-road 
is  the  old  military  road,  which  runs  for  about  twenty- 
two  miles,  on  the  south  side  of  the  parish,  and  is  kept 
in  good  order.  There  are  also  three  district  roads,  in 
indifferent  repair;  and  the  Caledonian  canal,  which  passes 
through  the  parish,  opens  a  communication,  by  means 
of  steam-packets  and  other  vessels,  to  many  places. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery 
of  Abertarff  and  synod  of  Glenelg ;  the  patronage  be- 
longs to  Professor  Scott,  of  Aberdeen,  and  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £238.  2.  2.  There  is  an  excellent  manse, 
with  offices,  and  the  glebe  comprises  upwards  of  fifty- 
two  acres,  of  which  thirty-five  are  in  good  cultiva- 
tion, and  the  remainder  indifferent  pasture  :  till  about 
seventy  years  since,  there  were  two  glebes  in  the  united 
parishes,  one  near  Fort-Augustus,  and  the  other  on  the 
banks  of  Loch  Ness,  both  eligible  and  desirable  tracts 
of  land,  which  were  exchanged  for  the  present  glebe. 
The  church,  conveniently  situated  for  the  bulk  of  the 
population,  was  built  in  1*77,  and  seats  42S  persons. 
There  is  a  missionary  in  connexion  with  the  Established 
Church,  who  regularly  officiates  at  Fort-Augustus  ;  and 
in  the  same  district  is  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel.  In 
the  parochial  school,  Latin,  Gaelic,  and  the  ordinary 
branches  of  education  are  taught,  and  the  master  has 
a  salary  of  £30,  with  about  £13.  10.  fees. — See  Fort- 
Augustus. 

BOLTON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Haddington, 
2  miles  (S.  by  YV.)  from  Haddington;  containing  341 
inhabitants.  This  manor,  in  156S,  belonged  to  Hep- 
burn of  Bolton,  who,  as  the  associate  of  the  Earl  of 
Bothwell,  was  executed  for  the  murder  of  the  Earl  of 
Darnley ;  and  on  its  consequent  forfeiture,  it  was 
granted  to  William  Maitland,  better  known  as  Secre- 
tary Lethington.  The  parish,  which  is  about  six  miles 
in  length,  and  one  mile  and  a  quarter  in  average  breadth, 
is  bounded  on  the  east  and  north-east  by  the  Gifford  or 
Bolton  water,  and  comprises  2451  Scottish  acres,  of 
which  295  are  woodland,  55  meadow  and  pasture,  and 
the  remainder  arable.  The  surface,  though  pleasingly 
undulated,  possesses  little  other  variety,  seldom  rising 
to  any  considerable  elevation  ;  the  scenery  is,  however, 
enriched  with  woods,  in  which  are  some  remarkably 
fine  trees.  The  chief  stream  is  the  Bolton  water,  which  is 
the  boundary  between  this  parish  and  that  of  Hadding- 
ton, for  nearly  three  miles  ;  it  rises  in  the  Lammermoor 
hills,  and,  receiving  various  tributary  streams  in  its 
descent,  flows  with  a  rapid  current  through  the  parish, 
and  falls  into  the  Tyne  near  Haddington.  It  adds 
greatly  to  the  scenery  of  the  parish,  having  banks 
140 


crowned  with  thriving  plantations,  and  abounds  with 
trout  of  excellent  quality.  The  Birns  water,  a  small 
stream  rising  also  in  the  Lammermoor  hills,  after  form- 
ing a  boundary  between  this  parish  and  that  of  Hunibie, 
falls  into  the  Tyne  at  Salton ;  there  are  also  various 
springs  of  good  water,  affording  an  abundant  supply  for 
domestic  use. 

The  soil  is  generally  a  fertile  clay,  with  the  exception 
of  a  small  portion  of  inferior  quality.  The  principal 
crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  potatoes,  and  turnips ; 
the  lands  are  well  drained  and  inclosed,  and  all  the 
modern  improvements  in  husbandry,  and  in  agricultural 
implements,  have  been  adopted.  Considerable  atten- 
tion is  paid  to  the  breed  of  live  stock,  and  many 
sheep  and  cattle  are  fed  on  the  green  crops  throughout 
the  winter  season.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £3072.  The  woods  consist  of  the  various 
kinds  of  forest  trees,  of  which  many  are  of  ancient  and 
stately  growth  ;  and  on  the  grounds  of  Eaglescarnie, 
are  some  remarkably  fine  chesnut-trees.  The  principal 
substrata  are,  sandstone  of  coarse  texture,  and  green- 
stone of  very  compact  quality,  but  no  quarries  have  been 
opened  ;  limestone  is  supposed  to  exist,  but  none  has 
hitherto  been  worked.  The  only  mansion-house  is 
Eaglescarnie,  pleasantly  situated  near  the  bank  of  the 
Bolton  water,  which  flows  through  the  demesne ;  the 
lands  are  embellished  with  thriving  and  extensive  plan- 
tations. The  ancient  manor-house  of  Bolton  has  long 
since  disappeared  ;  and  the  only  remaining  memorial  of 
it  is  the  site  on  which  it  stood,  still  called  the  Orchard 
Park.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Haddington 
and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £153.  15.  5.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £1S  per  annum  ;  patron,  Lord  Blantyre.  The 
church,  erected  in  1809,  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the 
later  English  style,  with  a  square  embattled  tower,  and 
is  well  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  350  persons.  The 
parochial  school  affords  instruction  to  about  SO  scho- 
lars ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  £40 
fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  There  are  some  remains 
of  a  Roman  camp,  of  quadrilateral  form,  occupying  an 
area  of  more  than  five  acres. 

BON-ACCORD,  late  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Old  Aberdeen,  district  and  county  of  Aber- 
deen ;  containing  51/0  inhabitants.  This  district,  which 
comprises  about  2S  acres,  and  is  wholly  situated  within 
the  town  of  Old  Aberdeen,  was  separated  in  1S34.  The 
church  was  built  in  1S23,  by  a  congregation  of  Scottish 
Baptists,  from  whom  it  was  purchased  in  182S,  as  a 
chapel  of  ease  to  the  parish  church,  at  an  expense  of 
£1250;  it  is  a  neat  structure,  containing  S40  sittings, 
and  the  minister's  stipend  is  £150,  derived  from  the 
seat-rents.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church  and  Baptists ;  also  several  Sabbath 
schools,  and  a  library  of  500  volumes  connected  with 
the  Established  Church. 

BONAR,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Criech,  county 
of  Sutherland,  12  miles  (W.)  from  Dornoch  ;  contain- 
ing 247  inhabitants.  It  is  prettily  seated  on  the  north- 
ern shore  of  Dornoch  Frith,  at  the  junction  of  the 
Assynt,  Reay,  Caithness,  and  Ross-shire  roads,  and  has 
latterly  rapidly  increased  from  a  small  hamlet  to  a  good- 
sized  village,  owing  to  the  erection  of  a  bridge,  by  which 
it  has  become  the  chief  entrance  into  the  county  from 
the  opposite  shore,  and  it  is  likely  to  be  the  nucleus  of  a 


B  O  N  H 


BONJ 


future  town  of  considerable  extent  and  importance. 
The  bridge,  called  Bonar  Bridge,  is  of  one  iron  and 
two  stone  arches,  and  was  built,  in  1S12,  by  the  land- 
owners of  the  county,  at  a  cost  of  about  £14,000.  Some 
trade  is  carried  on  with  this  village  and  neighbourhood, 
by  means  of  small  vessels,  for  which  there  is  a  sufficient 
depth  of  water  ;  and  markets  for  the  sale  of  cattle,  are 
held  in  July,  August,  and  September. 

BO'NESS. — See  Borrowstounness. 

BONGATE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  and  district  of 
Jedburgh,  county  of  Roxburgh  ;  containing  241  in- 
habitants. 

BONHILL,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dumbarton, 
3  miles  (N.)  from  Dumbarton ;  containing,  with  the 
villages  of  Alexandria,  Dalvait,  Damhead,  and  Mill  of 
Haldane,  6682  inhabitants,  of  whom  2041  are  in  the  vil- 
lage of  Bonhill.  The  name  of  this  parish  was  originally 
written  Buchnall,  afterwards  Bulhill,  and,  at  length, 
Bunnul;  it  is  supposed  to  be  a  corruption  of  the  Gaelic 
word  Bogh  n  uill,  which  signifies  "  the  foot  of  the 
rivulet."  The  whole  lands  former!)7  belonged  to  the 
family  of  Lennox,  but,  in  the  15th  century,  the  Darnley 
family,  by  marriage,  obtained  one-half  of  the  estate,  with 
the  titles,  and  the  other  half  was  afterwards  divided 
between  the  families  of  Napier  and  Gleneagles  ;  Dar- 
leith  was  the  property  of  the  Darleiths,  who  are  said  to 
have  been  hereditary  followers  of  the  earls  of  Lennox. 
The  Castle  of  Belloch,  or  Balloch,  here,  was  the  early 
seat  of  the  Lennox  family,  whose  charters  are  often 
dated  hence  in  the  13th  and  14th  centuries  ;  the  site 
is  still  marked  by  the  fosse,  but  no  remains  of  the  build- 
ing are  visible.  The  Lindsays,  a  family  of  note,  also 
anciently  resided  in  the  parish;  their  ancestors  were 
knights  in  the  reign  of  David  II.,  and  they  acquired 
the  estate  by  grant  from  their  relation,  the  Earl  of 
Lennox,  by  whom,  also,  they  were  appointed  foresters 
of  the  earldom.  The  male  line  failing  soon  after  the 
Restoration,  the  estate  passed  to  Sir  James  Smollett, 
provost,  and  representative  of  Dumbarton  in  parliament, 
and  afterwards  a  commissioner  of  the  union. 

The  parish  is  4|  miles  in  length,  and  4  in  breadth, 
and  comprises  5752  acres,  whereof  3056  are  arable,  53S 
plantation,  and  the  remainder  uncultivated  moor.  The 
river  Leven,  which  is  remarkable  for  the  softness  and 
clearness  of  its  water,  issues  from  Loch  Lomond,  at 
Balloch,  flows  through  the  parish,  and  falls  into  the 
Frith  of  Clyde  at  Dumbarton  Castle,  after  a  course  of 
about  nine  miles.  The  tide  runs  up  it  for  about  three 
miles,  and  it  is  navigable  throughout  its  whole  extent ; 
it  produces  excellent  salmon  and  a  variety  of  other  fish. 
The  soil  in  the  vale  of  the  Leven  is  alluvial,  and  where 
any  excavations  have  been  made,  has  under  it,  at  differ- 
ent depths,  and  of  different  thicknesses,  successive  beds 
of  fine  sand,  coarse  gravel,  and  shell  marl.  The  soil  of 
the  high  grounds,  on  the  east  side  of  the  vale  to  the 
extent  of  three-fourths,  and  on  the  west  side  of  it  to  the 
extent  of  one-half,  is  incumbent  on  red  sandstone,  soft 
and  porous,  except  at  a  great  depth  ;  the  soil  of  the 
other  half  of  the  west  side  lies  upon  a  blueish  sandstone, 
susceptible  of  a  fine  polish,  but  brittle,  and  with  indu- 
rated nodules  of  a  purplish  clay  here  and  there  im- 
bedded in  it.  The  woods  are  famed  for  the  number  of 
woodcocks  which  visit  them  in  winter,  and  the  river  and 
lake  for  the  great  variety  of  aquatic  birds.  The  lands 
are  all  cultivated  according  to  the  most  improved 
141 


methods,  and  furrow-draining,  and  the  subsoil  plough, 
have  been  adopted  with  great  advantage  to  the  ground  ; 
the  horses  are  of  the  Clydesdale  breed,  and  the  Ayr- 
shire cows  are  used  for  the  dairy.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £16,7*6.  The  mansions  are,  the 
House  of  Darleith,  the  ancient  seat  of  Bonhill,  the  modern 
castles  of  Balloch  and  Tillichewen,  and  the  houses  of 
Broomly,  Woodbank,  Cameron,  Belretiro,  and  Arden. 

Bleachfields  and  print-works  form  the  chief  employ- 
ment of  the  place,  and  since  their  establishment  the 
population  has  rapidly  increased.  The  parish  long  ago 
acquired  celebrity  for  its  bleaching  processes,  from  the 
introduction  of  workmen  from  Holland  and  the  esta- 
blishment of  bleachfields  on  the  Dutch  method  :  the 
first  print-field  on  the  Leven,  however,  was  not  begun 
till  about  the  year  176S,  and  even  then,  the  printing 
was  almost  entire!)'  confined  to  handkerchiefs,  and  done, 
by  block-printing,  but  copperplate  presses  were  soon 
erected,  and  afterwards  presses  to  be  driven  by  water. 
During  the  present  century,  the  number  of  the  works 
has  much  increased,  and  both  departments  are  now 
simultaneously  carried  on  in  the  same  establishments. 
The  works  in  operation  are  those  of  Dalmonaeh,  Bon- 
hill, Ferryfield,  Levenfield,  Levenbank,  and  Alexandria; 
Dalliehip,  Kirkland,  and  Mil  burn,  for  bleaching,  dyeing, 
and  printing ;  and  Milburn  works  for  producing  pyro- 
ligneous  acid,  tar,  pyroxilic  spirit,  kreosote,  &c,  at 
which  works,  also,  a  fine  Prussian  blue  is  manufactured. 
At  these  various  places,  steam-engines  and  water-wheels 
are  in  operation,  and  the  total  number  of  persons  em- 
ployed is  about  4000.  A  fair  is  held  at  Bonhill  on  the 
first  Thursday  in  February,  and  another  at  Balloch  on 
September  15th,  both  for  horses.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbyter)-  of  Dumbarton  and 
synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr:  the  minister's  stipend  is 
about  £200,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  the  annual 
value  of  £30.  The  patronage  is  in  the  Campbell  family, 
of  Stonefield.  The  church,  a  plain  structure,  with  a 
tower,  was  opened  in  1836,  and  contains  1200  sittings  : 
another  church,  on  the  General  Assembly's  Extension 
scheme,  was  opened  in  1S40;  and  the  Relief  Congrega- 
tion and  Independents  have  places  of  worship.  In  the 
churchyard  of  the  parochial  church,  is  an  ancient  and 
gigantic  ash-tree,  which,  in  the  agricultural  survey  of  the 
shire,  published  in  1S11,  is  said  to  measure,  round  its 
trunk,  eighteen  feet  where  smallest ;  it  has  long  been 
the  wonder  and  admiration  of  numerous  beholders,  but 
is  now  going  rapidly  to  decay.  Until  lately  there  was 
another  ash  in  the  parish,  of  still  larger  dimensions,  in 
the  trunk  of  which  a  room  was  formed,  nine  feet  in  dia- 
meter. A  place  of  worship  has  been  erected  for  the  Free 
Church.  Two  parochial  schools  are  supported,  the 
master  of  each  of  which  has  a  salary  of  £21.  ~ .,  with 
about  £15  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden  ;  and  there  is 
a  mechanics'  institution  in  the  parish.  Near  the  border 
of  the  parish,  is  a  monument  to  Dr.  Smollett. 

BONJEDWARD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  and  dis- 
trict of  Jedburgh,  county  of  Roxburgh  ;  containing 
107  inhabitants.  This  was  formerly  one  of  the  seats  of 
the  Douglas  family,  who  had  a  stronghold  in  the  village, 
which  was  demolished  in  the  course  of  the  last  century. 
The  village  is  pleasantly  situated,  and  the  lands  are 
fertile,  and  in  good  cultivation  ;  there  are  some  corn- 
mills  here,  and  the  inhabitants  are  chiefly  employed  in 
agriculture. 


BORE 


BORG 


BONKLE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cambusne- 
than,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  contain- 
ing 110  inhabitants.  It  is  a  small  romantic  village, 
situated  on  the  northern  boundary  of  the  parish,  and  on 
the  road  from  Steuart-Town  to  Shotts.  The  United 
Associate  Synod  have  a  place  of  worship  here. 

BONNINGTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Ratho, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  If  mile  (S.  W.)  from  Ratho; 
containing  132  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  east  of  the 
Amond  water,  and  a  short  distance  north  of  the  road 
between  Edinburgh  and  East  Calder.  Ratho  House,  a 
modern  mansion,  is  in  the  vicinity  ;  and  in  the  village 
is  a  small  school. 

BONNINGTON,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Arbir- 
lot,  county  of  Forfar  ;   containing  67  inhabitants. 

BONNYBRIDGE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Fal- 
kirk, county  of  Stirling,  4  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from 
Falkirk  ;  containing  1S4  inhabitants.  This  village  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  turnpike-road  to  Glasgow, 
and  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river  Bonny,  which  sepa- 
rates the  western  portion  of  the  parish  from  the  parishes 
of  Denny  and  Dunipace.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly 
employed  in  agriculture,  and  in  the  various  works  in  the 
adjacent  neighbourhood.  At  Bonnymuir,  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity,  is  a  distillery,  in  which  about  twelve 
persons  are  regularly  engaged,  and  which,  on  an 
average,  pays  government  duties  amounting  to  £150 
weekly  ;  and  at  Bonnyside,  is  a  saw-mill,  driven  by 
water,  in  which  fourteen  persons  are  employed.  A 
school  has  been  established  here,  of  which  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £4,  arising  from  a  bequest  of  £100  by 
Mr.  Scott  ;  and  he  has  also  a  house  and  garden  rent- 
free.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Bonnybridge  is  a  small 
burying-place. 

BONNYRIGG,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cockpen, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  3  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Cockpen  ; 
containing  650  inhabitants.  It  is  a  considerable  village, 
situated  on  the  road  between  Laswade  and  Cockpen,  in 
the  northern  part  of  the  parish  ;  and  in  the  vicinity, 
are  extensive  coal-works.  A  school  has  been  established 
here. 

BOOSHALA  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Kilninian, 
county  of  Argyll.  It  is  one  of  the  Hebrides,  and  lies 
south  of  Staffa,  from  which  island  it  is  separated  by  a 
stormy  channel  about  90  feet  wide  ;  it  is  of  an  irregular 
pyramidal  form,  entirely  composed  of  basaltic  pillars, 
inclining  in  every  direction. 

BORA  HOLM  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Rendal, 
county  of  Orkney.  It  is  situated  opposite  to  the 
entrance  of  a  harbour  called  the  Mill-Burn,  in  the 
isle  of  Gairsay,  and  is  uninhabited. 

BORELAND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dysart, 
district  of  Kirkcaldy,  county  of  Fife,  \  a  mile  (N.  by 
E.)  from  Dysart;  containing  193  inhabitants.  This 
place,  which  is  situated  about  half  a  mile  to  the  south- 
east of  the  village  of  Gallaton,  was  built  about  the 
middle  of  the  last  century,  and  is  chiefly  inhabited  by 
persons  employed  in  the  collieries  in  the  neighbourhood, 
which  were  formerly  carried  on  to  a  much  greater  ex- 
tent, than  at  present.  Since  the  limitation  of  those 
works,  within  the  last  twenty  years,  the  population  of 
this  village  has  diminished  from  more  than  300  to  its 
present  number.  A  school  has  been  endowed,  the  mas- 
ter of  which  has  a  schoolroom  and  dwelling-house  rent- 
free,  a  supply  of  coal,  and  a  salary. 
142 


BORERAY,  an  island,  in  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
Trumisgarry,  island  of  North  Uist,  county  of  Inver- 
ness ;  containing  1S1  inhabitants.  It  lies  a  little  south 
of  North  Uist,  and  west  of  Bernera,  in  the  Sound  of 
Harris  ;  and  is  about  three  miles  in  circumference,  and 
rather  fertile,  having  a  fresh- water  lake.  A  considerable 
quantity  of  kelp  is  made,  and  is  the  chief  employment  of 
the  population. 

BORGUE,  a  parish,  in  the  stewartry  of  Kirkcud- 
bright, 5  miles  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from  Kirkcudbright; 
containing,  with  the  villages  of  Chapelton  and  Kirk- 
Andrews,  1060  inhabitants,  of  whom  47  are  in  the 
village  of  Borgue.  This  place,  of  which  the  name  is 
descriptive  of  the  eminence  whereon  the  church  is  built, 
comprehends  the  ancient  parishes  of  Kirk-Andrews  and 
Sandwick,  which,  after  the  dilapidation  of  their  churches, 
now  in  ruins,  were  united  with  it  in  1670.  The  parish 
is  situated  on  the  river  Dee,  and  bounded  by  the  Solway 
Frith ;  it  is  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  seven  miles 
in  extreme  breadth,  and  comprises  12,864  acres,  of 
which  about  S000  are  arable,  about  250  woodland  and 
plantations,  and  the  remainder  rough  pasture.  The 
surface  of  the  parish  is  undulated,  and  diversified 
with  hills  of  moderate  elevation.  The  coast  is  indented 
with  numerous  bays,  and  is  bold  and  rocky,  and  in 
some  parts  precipitously  steep,  rising  in  cliffs  of  irregular 
and  fantastic  form,  towards  the  heads  called  Borness 
and  Muncraig,  which  command  an  extensive  view,  em- 
bracing a  wide  expanse  of  sea,  with  a  beautiful  variety 
of  vale  and  mountain  scenery,  including  the  course  of 
the  river  Dee,  the  town  of  Kirkcudbright,  the  rich 
foliage  of  St.  Mary's  Island,  the  range  of  the  Cumberland 
mountains,  the  Isle  of  Man,  and  the  coast  of  Wigton. 
The  more  level  parts,  inclosed  by  numerous  gentle  hills, 
formed  several  small  lakes,  which  have  been  drained, 
though  enough  are  still  remaining  to  afford  an  abundant 
supply  of  water ;  and  scattered  over  the  surface,  are 
not  less  than  thirty  mounds,  called  drums,  from  200  to 
300  yards  in  length,  the  grounds  around  which  are  wet 
and  marshy. 

The  soil  is  what  is  called  free  mould  of  various  qua- 
lity, well  adapted  for  oats  and  barley,  but  not  of  suffi- 
cient depth  for  wheat;  the  chief  crops  are,  oats,  barley, 
potatoes,  and  turnips,  with  the  various  grasses ;  the 
system  of  agriculture  is  improved.  A  considerable  quan- 
tity of  waste  land  has  been  rendered  profitable  by  effec- 
tive draining.  The  fences,  mostly  of  stone,  are  kept  in 
good  repair,  and  the  farm-buildings  and  offices  are 
generally  substantial  and  commodious ;  bone-dust  is 
used  for  manure,  and  the  soil  has  been  benefited  by  the 
judicious  use  of  lime,  by  which  much  of  the  moss  has 
been  converted  into  good  pasture  land.  The  cattle  are 
principally  of  the  Galloway  breed,  and  the  sheep  of  the 
Leicester  and  Cheviot  breeds.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £9554.  The  rocks  are  mainly  of 
the  transition  formation,  and  the  principal  substrata, 
greywacke,  slate,  and  clay-slate  ;  there  are  some  quar- 
ries of  stone,  from  which  materials  are  raised  for  the 
fences  and  for  common  building  purposes.  The  planta- 
tions are  comparatively  of  modern  growth,  and  are 
well  managed,  and  in  a  thriving  state.  Earlston  is  a 
handsome  mansion  in  the  parish,  recently  erected,  and 
beautifully  situated  in  a  richly-wooded  demesne,  com- 
manding a  fine  view  of  Wigton  bay  and  the  Cumberland 
mountains. 


BO  RR 


B  O  II  It 


The  village  population  is  agricultural  and  pastoral ; 
and  from  the  proximity  of  a  convenient  harbour,  one  of 
the  farmers  has  built  two  vessels,  for  the  exportation  of 
grain.  Salmon  is  found  in  great  abundance  in  the 
river  Dee,  and  also  in  the  bays  with  which  the  south- 
western coast  of  the  parish  is  indented.  The  ecclesias- 
tical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  pres- 
bytery of  Kirkcudbright  and  synod  of  Galloway ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  about  £265,  with  a  manse,  and 
the  glebe,  including  those  of  Kirk-Andrews  and  Sand- 
wick,  is  valued  at  £40  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Crown. 
The  church,  conveniently  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  parish,  is  an  elegant  cruciform  structure  in  the  early 
English  style,  with  a  lofty  square  embattled  tower, 
erected  in  1S14,  and  containing  500  sittings;  from  its 
elevated  site,  it  forms  a  conspicuous  object,  and  is  seen 
at  a  great  distance.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church.  The  Borgue  Academy, 
which  is  an  extension  of  the  parochial  school,  under  the 
endowment  of  Mr.  Rainy,  of  the  island  of  Dominica, 
who  bequeathed  £3000  for  the  promotion  of  education 
in  his  native  parish,  is  under  the  management  of  a  head 
master,  who  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.  in  addition  to  the 
fees,  and  an  assistant,  whose  salary  is  paid  from  the 
endowment.  The  usual  number  of  scholars  is  120,  of 
whom  20  are  taught  gratuitously,  their  fees  being  paid 
from  the  same  bequest.  The  poor  are  partly  supported 
by  collections  at  the  church ;  and  the  deficiency  is  sup- 
plied from  Mr.  Rainy's  .endowment,  and  the  proceeds  of 
small  charitable  bequests.  There  are  some  slight  re- 
mains of  ancient  castles,  several  British  forts,  and  various 
other  relics  of  antiquity,  in  the  parish. 

BORLAND-PARK,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Auce- 
terarder,  county  of  Perth,  |  a  mile  (N.  W.)  from 
Auchterarder  ;  containing  141  inhabitants.  This  vil- 
lage was  built  by  government,  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  disbanded  military,  after  the  conclusion  of  the  war, 
in  1"63  ;  but  was  soon  deserted  by  the  soldiers  for 
whose  residence  it  was  originally  designed,  and  is  now 
inhabited  chiefly  by  weavers,  employed  by  the  manufac- 
turers of  Glasgow. 

BORROWSTOUN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Bor- 
rowstounness, county  of  Linlithgow,  \  of  a  mile  (S.) 
from  Borrowstounness ;   containing  60  inhabitants. 

BORROWSTOUNNESS,  a  sea-port  town,  burgh  of 
barony,  and  parish,  in  the  county  of  Linlithgow, 
3  miles  (N.)  from  Linlithgow ;  containing,  with  the 
villages  of  Borrowstoun  and  Newton,  2347  inhabitants, 
of  whom  1790  are  in  the  town.  This  place,  near  which 
stood  Kinneil,  the  head  of  the  barony  of  that  name, 
granted  by  Robert  Bruce  to  the  ancestor  of  the  dukes  of 
Hamilton,  in  acknowledgment  of  his  military  services  on 
the  field  of  Bannockburn,  appears  to  have  originated  in 
the  erection  of  some  buildings  on  a  point  of  land  boldly 
projecting  into  the  Frith  of  Forth,  about  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  to  the  north  of  the  small  village  of  Burwards- 
town,  or  Borrowstoun,  from  which  circumstance  it 
derived  its  name,  Borrowstounness,  or,  by  contrac- 
tion, Bo'ness.  In  1600,  there  was  only  one  solitary  house 
on  the  site  of  the  present  town,  while  the  ancient  town  of 
Kinneil,  which  had  grown  up  near  the  baronial  castle 
of  Kinneil,  contained  more  than  500  inhabitants  ;  but 
the  advantageous  situation  of  the  ness,  and  the  abun- 
dance of  coal  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  soon  attracted 
shipping  to  its  port ;  and  the  prosperous  state  of  trade 
143 


about  the  commencement  of  the  17th  century,  in- 
duced many  rich  merchants  and  ship-owners  to  settle 
in  the  town,  which,  from  that  time,  rapidly  advanced. 
In  1634,  the  increase  of  its  population,  and  the  distance 
of  the  parish  church  of  Kinneil,  situated  near  the  baro- 
nial mansion,  induced  the  inhabitants  to  erect  a  church 
for  themselves,  in  which  the  minister  of  Kinneil  con- 
tinued to  officiate  alternately,  for  their  accommodation, 
till  the  year  1649,  when,  on  their  petition  to  parliament, 
the  town  of  Borrowstounness,  with  its  environs,  was 
separated  from  the  parish  of  Kinneil,  and  erected  into 
an  independent  parish.  In  1669,  the  Duke  of  Hamil- 
ton obtained  from  the  Scottish  parliament,  an  act 
declaring  the  church  of  this  town  the  parish  church  of 
the  whole  barony  of  Kinneil  and  Borrowstounness,  since 
which  time  the  two  have  been  consolidated  into  one  pa- 
rish. The  place  continued  to  increase  in  prosperity, 
and,  from  the  superiority  of  its  situation  for  trade,  to 
withdraw  the  population  from  Kinneil,  which,  in  1691, 
contained  only  a  few  families,  and  ultimately  wholly 
disappeared  ;  and  the  town  upon  the  ness  was  erected 
into  a  burgh  of  barony,  under  the  Duke  of  Hamilton, 
in  174S. 

The  town  is  situated  in  the  north-eastern  extremity 
of  the  parish,  on  the  south  shore  of  the  Frith  of  Forth, 
and  consists  principally  of  narrow  streets,  of  houses  of 
ancient  and  irregular  appearance.  It  was  formerly  one 
of  the  most  thriving  towns  on  the  eastern  coast,  and, 
prior  to  17S0,  ranked  as  the  third  sea-port  in  Scotland; 
and  though  the  opening  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde  canal, 
and  the  establishment  of  the  port  of  Grangemouth,  have 
contributed  much  to  diminish  its  commerce,  it  is  still 
far  from  being  inconsiderable.  The  female  population 
were  once  employed  in  tambour-work  to  a  very  large 
extent,  and  many  females  are  yet  engaged  in  that  pur- 
suit ;  a  pottery  was  established  in  1734,  and  has,  since 
that  time,  been  greatly  increased  ;  there  is  ah  extensive 
foundry,  and  some  chemical-works  are  also  carried  on, 
upon  a  large  scale.  A  distillery  is  in  full  operation, 
paying  weekly  to  government  more  than  £300,  for 
duties ;  there  are  several  large  malting  establishments ; 
and  at  the  east  end  of  the  town,  and  on  the  links,  are  a 
rope-walk  and  extensive  wood-yards,  connected  with 
which  is  a  saw-mill  worked  by  steam,  of  which  the 
engine  is  also  employed  in  the  preparation  of  bone-dust, 
for  manure.  The  chief  trade  of  the  port  is  in  grain,  for 
which  the  merchants  have  extensive  granaries,  capable 
of  warehousing  15,000  quarters  ;  a  considerable  trade  is 
also  carried  on  in  the  exportation  of  salt,  coal,  iron- 
stone, and  earthenware  ;  the  imports  are  timber,  iron, 
flax,  grain,  bark,  and  madder.  The  number  of  vessels 
registered  as  belonging  to  the  port,  in  a  recent  year,  was 
101,  of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  6521  tons  ;  and  the 
amount  of  duties  paid  at  the  custom-house  was  £4S24. 

The  harbour,  which  has  been  greatly  improved,  under 
the  superintendence  of  fifteen  trustees,  chosen  from  the 
merchants  and  ship-owners,  is  one  of  the  safest  and 
most  accessible  011  this  part  of  the  coast,  and  is  formed 
by  two  piers,  extending  56S  feet  into  the  Frith  ;  it  is 
240  feet  wide,  and,  at  spring  tides,  has  an  average  depth 
of  from  16  to  18  feet.  Between  the  piers,  a  broad  wall 
has  been  constructed,  cutting  off,  towards  the  land,  a 
basin,  which  is  easily  filled  with  water  by  the  tide, 
and  at  low  water  emptied  by  sluices,  by  which  means 
the  harbour  is  cleansed  and  deepened ;  and  on  the  west 


BORR 


B  ORT 


side  of  the  basin,  is  a  patent-slip,  to  which  vessels  are 
admitted  for  repair.  The  jurisdiction  of  the  port  once 
extended  from  Dumbrissle  point  and  the  water  of  Cra- 
mond  to  the  port  of  Alloa,  including  both  shores  of  the 
Frith;  but  in  1S10,  Grangemouth,  formerly  a  creek, 
was  constituted  a  distinct  port.  The  custom-house  de- 
partment consists  of  a  comptroller,  a  collector,  a  tide- 
waiter,  and  eight  other  officers,  including  those  of  the 
creeks.  There  were  once  eight  ships  belonging  to  the 
place,  employed  in  the  whale-fishery,  but  that  trade  has 
for  some  years  been  decreasing,  and  at  present  only  one 
vessel  is  engaged  in  it ;  there  are  two  boiling-houses  for 
extracting  the  oil,  one  of  which  has  been  recently  much 
improved.  The  steamers  of  Stirling  touch  here,  on 
their  passage  to  and  from  Newhaven.  A  branch  from 
the  town  to  the  Forth  and  Clyde'  canal  was  commenced 
by  a  subscription  of  £10,000,  raised  under  an  act  of 
parliament,  in  1/82,  and  an  aqueduct  across  the  Avon 
constructed  for  that  purpose  ;  but  the  work  was  aban- 
doned after  an  outlay  of  £7500,  before  it  was  half  com- 
pleted, and  has  not  since  been  resumed.  A  market  is 
held  weekly  on  Monday,  and  a  fair  annually  on  the 
16th  of  November;  a  pleasure-fair  is  also  held,  in  July. 
The  burgh  is  governed  by  a  baron-bailie,  appointed  by 
the  Duke  of  Hamilton,  as  superior  :  a  building  erected 
by  one  of  the  dukes,  for  a  court-house  and  prison,  is 
situated  at  the  head  of  the  harbour,  but  is  now  occupied 
chiefly  as  a  granary. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  and  on  the  south  and  west  by  the  river  Avon; 
it  is  of  triangular  form,  about  four  miles  in  length,  from 
east  to  west,  and  two  miles  in  breadth,  comprising  about 
3000  acres,  of  which  270  are  woodland  and  plantations, 
and  the  remainder  arable,  in  the  highest  state  of  culti- 
vation, of  which  430  acres  are  esteemed  to  be  the 
richest  carse  land  in  the  country.  The  surface,  with 
the  exception  of  the  carse,  is  considerably  varied,  rising 
towards  the  south-eastern  extremity  of  the  parish,  to  a 
height  of  520  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ;  from  this 
eminence,  which  is  called  the  Hill  of  Irongath,  the 
ground  slopes  gradually  to  the  south  and  west,  and  is 
embellished  with  stately  timber  and  strips  of  plantations, 
to  the  very  margin  of  the  Avon.  This  river,  from  its 
numerous  windings  near  the  parish,  forms  an  inter- 
esting feature  in  the  scenery,  in  many  points  of  view; 
and  the  Dean  and  Gil  burns,  flowing  through  romantic 
dells  near  Kinneil  House,  add  greatly  to  its  beauty.  The 
soil  is  mostly  fertile,  and  the  chief  crops  are,  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  beans,  and  the  usual  green  crops  ;  the  sys- 
tem of  agriculture  is  good  ;  draining  has  been  practised 
to  a  considerable  extent,  and  all  the  more  recent  im- 
provements in  husbandry  have  been  generally  adopted. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £8369.  The 
substratum  is  of  the  coal  formation,  with  very  little 
variety ;  the  coal  occurs  in  seams  of  great  thickness, 
is  of  excellent  quality,  and  has  been  wrought  from 
a  remote  period,  to  a  very  great  extent,  though,  within 
the  last  half  century,  the  works  have  been  discontinued. 
Ironstone  is  likewise  found,  and  was  formerly  wrought ; 
there  are  some  quarries  of  good  freestone,  and  also  of 
whinstone  and  limestone,  but  the  last  is  of  inferior  qua- 
lity, and  more  used  for  building  than  for  agricultural 
purposes.  Kinneil  House,  one  of  the  seats  of  the  Duke 
of  Hamilton,  is  an  ancient  mansion,  beautifully  situated 
on  the  brow  of  a  steep  bank  commanding  a  fine  view  of 
144 


the  Frith,  and  has  undergone  various  changes  made  in 
it  at  different  times.  The  ancient  castle  was,  some  time 
since,  modernised  by  a  new  front,  and  the  battlements 
replaced  by  a  balustrade  ;  the  original  windows  were 
enlarged ;  and  a  range  of  building,  projecting  at  right 
angles  from  the  northern  extremity,  was  added,  to 
which  a  corresponding  wing,  on  the  south,  was  pro- 
bably contemplated,  the  whole  to  form  three  sides  of  a 
quadrangle.  The  approach  is  by  a  stately  avenue  of 
venerable  trees  ;  and  the  ample  and  richly-varied 
demesne  by  which  it  is  surrounded,  abounds  with  beau- 
tifully picturesque  scenery.  The  numerous  apartments 
of  this  once  princely  mansion  are  now  unoccupied  ;  and 
among  the  tenants  who  have  resided  in  it,  since  it  was 
deserted  by  its  noble  proprietor,  have  been  the  cele- 
brated Dugald  Stewart,  and  James  Watt,  the  improver 
of  the  steam-engine. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Linlithgow  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  patron,  the  Duke  of  Hamilton  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £272.  7-  7-,  partly  arising  from 
lands  bequeathed  for  that  purpose,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £21  per  annum.  The  church,  nearly 
rebuilt  in  1775,  and  enlarged  in  1820,  is  a  neat  plain 
structure,  containing  950  sittings  ;  there  are  still  some 
remains  of  the  ancient  church  of  Kinneil,  near  Kinneil 
House.  A  place  of  worship  has  been  erected  for  mem- 
bers of  the  United  Secession.  The  parochial  school  is 
attended  by  about  fifty  children ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the 
fees  average  about  £40  per  annum.  A  parochial  library, 
in  which  is  a  collection  of  about  1250  volumes,  is  sup- 
ported by  subscription.  There  are,  in  various  parts  of 
the  parish,  traces  of  the  wall  of  Antoninus,  which  is 
supposed  to  have  passed  by  Kinneil.  Near  the  farm 
of  Upper  Kinneil,  was  a  cairn  called  the  Laughing  Hill, 
in  which  were  found  four  stone  coffins  containing  black 
mould,  and  four  urns,  in  an  inverted  position,  contain- 
ing human  bones;  and  a  similar  coffin  and  urn  were 
found,  in  the  side  of  an  eminence  called  Bell's  Know, 
immediately  above  the  town  of  Bornrwstounness.  Below 
Kinneil  House,  upon  the  coast,  and  near  the  lands 
called  the  Snab,  was  the  castle  of  Lyon,  of  which  some 
remains  of  the  garden  wall,  and  a  path  leading  from  it 
to  the  shore,  called  the  Castle-Loan,  are  the  only 
memorials. 

BORTHWICK,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Edin- 
burgh, 3  miles  (E.  by  N.)  from  Temple;  containing, 
with  the  villages  of  Clayhouse,  Dewartown,  Middleton, 
North  Middleton,  Newlandrig,  and  part  of  Stobbsmills, 
1617  inhabitants.  This  place,  anciently  called  Locher- 
wart,  assumed  the  appellation  of  Borthwick  about  the 
time  of  the  Reformation,  from  the  family  of  that 
name.  The  most  remote  possessors  of  the  extensive 
estates  in  this  district  of  whom  we  have  any  account, 
were  the  family  of  Lyne,  who  occupied  the  domain  till 
the  reign  of  Alexander  II.,  when  it  passed  to  the  Hays, 
who,  in  the  time  of  James  I.,  disposed  of  the  lands  to 
Sir  William  de  Borthwick,  founder  of  the  magnificent 
castle  afterwards  so  celebrated  in  Scottish  history.  This 
personage  was  created  Lord  Borthwick  in  1433  ;  and  the 
castle  thus  became  the  seat  of  a  barony,  and,  by  a  spe- 
cial license  obtained  from  the  king,  was  fortified  in  a 
very  complete  manner,  and  supplied  with  every  thing 
necessary  for  its  safety  and  defence.     The  descendants 


B  O  It  T 


BORT 


of  this  baron  were  illustrious  for  the  general  character 
of  integrity  and  honour  which  they  sustained,  and  for 
the  part  they  took  in  the  public  transactions  of  their 
times.  William,  the  third  lord,  was  slain,  with  James 
IV.,  at  trie  fatal  battle  of  Flodden  ;  John,  the  fifth  lord, 
was  a  zealous  supporter  of  Queen  Mary,  who  occa- 
sionally visited  his  castle,  and  made  it  an  asylum,  before 
the  commencement  of  her  long  series  of  troubles  ;  and 
John,  the  eighth  lord,  in  the  time  of  the  civil  wars, 
strenuously  supported  the  cause  of  the  Royalists,  and, 
being  besieged  in  his  castle,  by  Cromwell,  after  the  ex- 
ecution of  the  king,  was  obliged  at  length  to  surrender. 
In  1449,  the  ecclesiastical  revenues  of  the  parish  were 
appropriated  to  the  collegiate  church  of  Crichton.  But, 
in  April,  1596,  James  I.  of  England,  dissolved  from 
that  establishment  several  prebendaries,  with  two  boys 
or  clerks  to  assist  in  the  performance  of  divine  service 
here,  assigning  to  them  proper  salaries  ;  and  these  pre- 
bends, with  the  vicarage  of  Borthwick,  manse,  and 
glebe,  were  then,  by  royal  charter,  erected  into  a  dis- 
tinct charge,  called  the  parsonage  of  Borthwick.  This 
arrangement  was  ratified  by  parliament,  in  1606,  and 
confirmed  by  the  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrew's,  as  patron 
of  the  prebends. 

The  parish  is  about  six  miles  long,  and  four  miles 
broad,  and  contains  about  21,000  acres,  of  which  19,100 
are  in  tillage  or  pasture,  700  in  plantations,  and  1200 
are  uncultivated.  The  surface  is  agreeably  undulated, 
but  from  some  points  the  aspect  is  uninviting,  consider- 
able tracts  of  barren  moor  being  spread  about,  and 
lofty  eminences  frequently  meeting  the  eye,  covered 
with  a  poor  thin  earth,  and  destitute  of  pasture.  There 
are,  however,  some  very  picturesque  and  beautiful  val- 
leys, watered  by  winding  streams,  and  numerous  farms 
in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  hidden,  to  a  great  extent, 
from  casual  view  by  the  protuberances  of  the  higher 
grounds.  From  the  summit  of  Cowbrae  Hill,  at  the 
upper  boundary  of  the  parish,  an  extensive  prospect 
may  be  obtained  of  the  surrounding  country,  richly  re- 
paying the  labour  of  ascending  the  eminence.  The 
plantations  which  have  been  recently  formed  have 
largely  contributed,  among  other  advantages,  to  im- 
prove the  appearance  of  the  district ;  and  in  the  proper 
seasons,  the  great  profusion  of  plants  and  flowers,  espe- 
cially of  wild  roses,  for  which  this  place  is  famed,  makes 
it  alike  inviting  to  the  admirer  of  garden  scenery  and 
the  lover  of  botanical  research.  Two  burns  traverse  the 
higher  part  of  the  parish,  called  the  North  and  South 
Middleton,  which,  after  their  junction  at  the  end  of  the 
neck  of  land  on  which  the  castle  is  situated,  take  the 
name  of  the  Gore,  and  at  length,  winding  through  the 
whole  extent  of  the  valley,  fall  into  the  South  Esk  at 
Shank  Point.  The  soil  is  various,  being  in  some  parts 
a  fine  light  mould,  and  in  others  loamy,  and  approach- 
ing to  heavy  clayey  earth  ;  in  the  vicinity  of  the  rivers, 
it  consists  of  a  soft  alluvial  bed,  subject  to  occasional 
inundations.  All  kinds  of  grain  are  raised,  with  the 
usual  green  crops,  and  the  lands  are  plentifully  ma- 
nured with  farm-yard  dung,  lime,  and  bone-dust.  The 
cattle  bred  here  are  the  short-horned,  and  the  sheep  the 
black-faced  and  Cheviots,  although  a  cross  between  the 
Leicester  and  Cheviot,  on  some  of  the  large  estates,  has 
been  preferred.  A  long  and  barren  moor  at  the  base  of 
the  Lammermoors,  with  other  ground  of  the  same  de- 
scription, has,  to  a  good  extent,  been  cultivated  ;  and  the 
Vol.  I.—  145 


river  localities,  with  several  low  swamps,  have  been  cleared 
of  their  wild  wood,  and  intersected  with  proper  drains. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £6837.  The 
rocks  consist  chiefly  of  greywacke,  limestone,  and  sand- 
stone ;  of  the  first  kind  are  the  Lammermoor  hills,  on  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  parish,  and  the  substance  of 
Cowbrae  Hill  is  the  same.  On  the  abrupt  borders  of 
Currie  Wood,  a  coarse-grained  reddish  sandstone  is 
found,  in  layers,  interlined  with  some  lighter- coloured 
varieties  of  the  same  rock.  The  sandstone  hitherto  dis- 
covered in  the  parish  contains  a  strong  admixture  of 
calcareous  matter,  which  greatly  deteriorates  its  value 
as  a  building  material ;  but  the  district  contains  very 
superior  limestone  and  coal,  which  are  wrought  exten- 
sively, and  sent  to  Edinburgh  and  some  of  the  southern 
towns  of  Scotland.  Lime-burning  is  regularly  carried 
on,  and  large  quantities  are  used  for  agricultural  pur- 
poses. 

Among  the  chief  mansions  is  the  House  of  Arniston, 
an  extensive  and  majestic  structure,  of  baronial  appear- 
ance, ornamented  by  numerous  ancient  trees  of  un- 
usual size,  with  rich  plantations,  and  finely  laid-out 
grounds,  watered  by  the  beautiful  stream  of  the  South 
Esk ;  most  of  the  old  wood  is  supposed  to  have  been 
planted  by  the  first  baron  of  Arniston,  Sir  James 
Dundas,  who  was  knighted  by  James  V.,  about  the  year 
1530.  Middleton  House,  situated  in  the  higher  part 
of  the  parish,  is  in  a  similar  style,  but  of  smaller 
dimensions  ;  it  stands  in  the  midst  of  thick  woods  and 
verdant  fields,  surrounded  by  grounds  which  attract 
considerable  admiration.  Currie  House  was  formed 
about  thirty  years  ago,  by  enlarging  and  improving  a 
house  upon  the  property ;  in  the  vicinity,  is  Currie 
Wood,  the  prospects  from  which  embrace  a  tract  com- 
prising almost  every  object  the  union  of  which  may  be 
conceived  necessary  to  constitute  a  landscape  of  finished 
and  perfect  beauty.  Vorgie  House  is  a  narrow  long 
building,  with  little  pretension  to  architectural  taste,  but 
the  adjacent  grounds  are  rich,  consisting  of  romantic 
glens,  ornamented  with  many  very  superior  and  ma- 
jestic trees.  Harvieston  House,  in  its  external  appear- 
ance, is  somewhat  similar  to  that  of  Vorgie;  it  was 
originally  of  exceedingly  plain  appearance,  but  some 
additions  were  judiciously  made  to  it  a  few  years  ago, 
and  the  lands  around  it  have  been  greatly  improved.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of 
Dalkeith  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  the 
Dundas  family  are  pati-ons,  and  the  stipend  of  the 
minister  is  £19S.  12.  3.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of 
about  14  acres.  The  church,  which  was  built  in  1780, 
on  the  destruction  of  the  ancient  edifice  by  fire,  contains 
about  450  sittings.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  in 
which  the  usual  branches  of  education  are  taught,  and 
the  master  of  which  has  the  maximum  salary,  with  £40 
from  fees,  and  the  legal  accommodation  of  house  and 
garden  ;  another  school  is  endowed  with  a  bequest  of 
£3.  17.  per  annum,  the  teacher  deriving  the  rest  of  his 
income  from  the  scholars.  The  ancient  castle,  the  chief 
relic  of  antiquity  in  the  parish,  consists  of  a  single 
tower,  having  an  embattled  wall  of  hewn  stone,  thirteen 
feet  in  thickness  near  the  base,  but  contracting  gradu- 
ally to  about  six  feet  towards  the  top ;  the  proportions 
of  the  building,  without  the  walls,  are  seventy-four  feet 
by  sixty-eight,  and  about  110  feet  from  the  area  to  the 
highest   part  of  the  roof.      It  has  a  sunk  apartment, 

U 


B  OS  W 


BOTH 


above  which  are  two  large  halls,  one  over  the  other,  the 
lower  of  which  is  ample,  elegant,  and  finely  formed,  and 
has  a  roof  ornamented  with  numerous  antique  devices. 
There  are  also  two  flights  of  bed-rooms,  and  various 
other  internal  and  external  appendages,  constituting  the 
castle  one  of  the  most  striking  buildings  of  the  class  in 
Scotland  ;  it  is  beautifully  situated,  and  has  been  famous 
in  history  for  the  visits  and  residence  of  the  unfortunate 
Queen  Mary,  while  Bothwell  was  lord  of  the  neigh- 
bouring castle  of  Crichton.  The  eminent  historian,  Dr. 
Robertson,  was  born  in  the  manse,  where  he  received 
the  earliest  part  of  his  education. 

BOSTON,  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the  parish  of 
Dunse,  county  of  Berwick  ;  containing  1223  inhabit- 
ants. This  parish  forms  part  of  the  town  of  Dunse, 
and  derives  its  name  from  Thomas  Boston,  a  theological 
writer,  who  was  born  here  in  1676.  It  was  separated 
from  Dunse  in  1839,  on  the  erection  of  a  church,  and  is 
under  the  presbytery  of  Dunse  and  synod  of  Merse  and 
Teviotdale ;  the  minister  is  elected  by  the  managers  and 
male  communicants.  The  children  of  Boston  are  eligible 
to  the  parochial  school  of  Dunse,  possessing  the  same 
right  as  previously  to  the  separation  of  the  parishes. 

BOSWELL'S,  ST.,  a  parish,  situated  in  the  district 
of  Melrose,  county  of  Roxburgh,  4  miles  (S.  E.) 
from  Melrose  ;  containing,  with  the  village  of  Lessudden, 
747  inhabitants,  This  place  derives  its  name  from  its 
church,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  first  founded  by 
St.  Boswell,  abbot  of  Melrose,  whose  disciple,  St.  Cuth- 
bert,  flourished  in  the  ninth  century  ;  and  traces  of  the 
ancient  village  of  St.  Boswell's  are  still  occasionally  dis- 
covered by  the  plough.  Few  historical  events  are 
recorded :  the  principal  one  is  the  burning  of  the 
village,  by  the  English  of  the  border,  in  1544,  when 
many  of  the  inhabitants  were  killed,  and  the  lands  laid 
waste ;  the  village,  at  that  time,  is  said  to  have  con- 
tained many  fortified  houses.  The  parish  is  situated  on 
the  river  Tweed,  which  forms  its  eastern  and  northern 
boundary,  for  two  miles  ;  and  is  about  three  miles  in 
length,  and  one  and  a  half  in  breadth,  comprising  an 
area  of  four  and  a  half  square  miles.  The  surface  is 
uneven,  rising  in  the  upper  portion  in  ridgy  undula- 
tions, with  intervening  valleys,  but  towards  the  river 
being  more  level  5  the  lower  grounds  are  watered  by 
numerous  springs,  and  by  a  rivulet  called  St.  Boswell's 
burn,  which,  in  its  course  towards  the  Tweed,  is  aug- 
mented by  several  tributary  rills.  The  scenery  is  gene- 
rally of  pleasing  character  ;  and  adjoining  the  village  of 
Lessudden,  is  an  elevated  ridge,  from  which  is  obtained 
a  fine  view  of  the  old  abbey  of  Dryburgh,  shaded  by 
venerable  woods,  and  nearly  surrounded  by  the  wind- 
ings of  the  Tweed ;  and  of  the  remains  of  Lessudden 
Place,  an  ancient  fortress,  the  property  of  the  Scotts  of 
Raeburn,  forming  an  exceedingly  interesting  feature  in 
the  landscape. 

The  lands,  with  the  exception  of  about  30  acres  on  the 
steep  banks  of  the  river,  nearly  180  acres  of  woodland, 
and  about  40  acres  of  common,  called  St.  Boswell's 
Green,  are  all  arable,  and  about  2300  are  under  cultiva- 
tion. The  soil,  for  the  greater  part,  is  a  stiff  clay ;  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Lessudden,  a  black  loam  ;  and  in 
other  parts  alluvial.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  good, 
and  considerable  improvements  have  been  made  in 
draining  the  lands,  and  in  plantations  ;  the  soil  is  well 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  forest  timber  of  every  kind, 
146 


and  on  the  lands  of  Ellieston  are  some  of  the  most  flou- 
rishing larch-trees  in  the  kingdom.  Lime  is  to  be  ob- 
tained only  from  a  great  distance,  and  bone-dust  has 
been  substituted,  which  has  been  found  to  succeed  well 
for  turnips ;  some  progress  has  been  made  in  embank- 
ments against  the  inundations  of  the  Tweed,  and  two 
have  been  completed  to  a  considerable  extent,  on  the 
farms  of  Fens  and  St.  Boswell's.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £3S00.  There  are  quarries  of 
red  sandstone,  which  is  of  good  quality  for  building, 
and,  in  some  places,  appears  resting  on  a  seam  of 
whitish-coloured  stone  of  great  hardness,  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  pyrites  of  iron  ;  coal  is  supposed  to  exist, 
but  no  attempts  to  procure  it  have  been  attended  with 
success.  To  the  north  of  the  Green,  a  very  handsome 
hunting  establishment  has  been  erected  by  the  Duke  of 
Buccleuch.  A  fair  is  held  on  the  Green,  on  the  18th 
of  July,  or  the  following  Monday,  if  the  ISth  happen 
on  a  Sunday;  it  is  frequented  by  a  great  concourse 
of  people  from  all  parts,  for  the  purchase  and  sale  of 
Scotch  and  Irish  linens,  hardware,  books,  toys,  and 
other  articles  ;  and  it  is  a  very  extensive  market  also  for 
sheep  and  lambs,  and  for  cattle  and  horses,  the  sales 
which  annually  take  place  averaging  from  £S000  to 
£10,000.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  con- 
troul  of  the  presbytery  of  Selkirk  and  synod  of  Merse 
and  Teviotdale;  patron,  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch.  The 
stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £211.  11.  7.;  the  manse, 
built  in  1791,  was  substantially  repaired  in  1811,  and 
the  glebe  comprises  seven  acres  of  excellent  land.  The 
church,  situated  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish, 
was  built  near  the  site  of  a  more  ancient  structure  which 
had  fallen  into  decay,  and  probably  about  the  year 
1652 ;  it  was  enlarged  and  thoroughly  repaired  in 
1837,  and  affords  accommodation  to  430  persons.  A 
place  of  worship  has  been  erected  in  connexion  with 
the  Free  Church.  The  parochial  school  affords  educa- 
tion to  a  considerable  number  of  scholars  ;  the  master 
has  a  tolerable  salary,  with  a  house  and  garden  rent 
free,  and  the  fees. 

BOTHKENNAR,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Stir- 
ling, 3  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Falkirk  ;  containing,  with 
part  of  the  village  of  Carronshore,  1000  inhabitants.  The 
peculiar  features  of  this  place  appear  to  be  described  with 
tolerable  accuracy  in  the  Celtic  term  by  which  it  is  de- 
nominated, and  which  signifies  "  the  small  arable  fen"  or 
"marsh;"  the  parish,  originally  marshy,  having  been  sub- 
jected, throughout  its  whole  extent,  which  is  very  small, 
to  the  operations  of  the  plough.  It  is  bounded  on  the  east 
by  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  on  the  south  by  the  river  Car- 
ron,  forming  a  part  of  the  tract  called  the  Carse  of  Fal- 
kirk, and  is  about  one  and  a  half  mile  in  length,  and  of 
nearly  the,. same  breadth,  comprising  1240  Scotch  acres, 
the  whole  under  tillage.  The  surface  is  entirely  level ; 
and  the  soil,  under  which,  at  various  depths,  are  found 
layers  of  marine  shells,  is  a  very  rich  alluvial  loam, 
highly  cultivated,  according  to  the  most  improved 
methods  of  husbandry,  and  produces  all  kinds  of  crops, 
but  wheat  and  beans  in  the  largest  proportions,  with 
hay  of  a  superior  quality,  which  is  sent  for  sale  to  the 
Edinburgh  market.  The  parish  contains  numerous 
orchards,  some  of  which  are  supposed  to  have  been 
planted  by  the  monks  of  Cambuskenneth  ;  they  yield 
various  kinds  of  fruit,  but  especially  very  fine  pears,  of 
which  the  trees  bearing  an  indigenous  species  called  the 


BOTH 


BOTH 


"golden  nap,"  are  particularly  celebrated  for  their 
luxuriance,  beauty,  and  fruit,  and  sometimes  produce 
each,  yearly,  fruit  to  the  amount  in  value  of  £10.  The 
whole  of  the  lands,  with  very  few  exceptions,  have  been 
improved  by  tile-draining,  the  benefit  of  which  has  been 
so  extensive  as  to  pay  the  farmer  in  two  years  for  the 
outlay ;  great  attention  is  given  to  the  rearing  of 
horses  of  a  superior  kind,  for  the  uses  of  husbandry. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4299. 
Coal,  of  excellent  quality,  is  abundant,  and  is  wrought 
by  the  Carron  Company,  who  pay  £1000  per  annum  to 
the  proprietors  for  this  privilege.  The  parish  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Stirling  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling, 
and  in  the  patronage  of  Mr.  Lewis  ;  the  minister's  sti- 
pend is  £201.  12.  10.,  with  a  manse,  built  in  1816  at  a 
cost  of  £1600,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £12  per  annum. 
The  church  was  built  in  1789,  and  is  a  plain  comfortable 
edifice,  suited  to  the  accommodation  of  the  parishioners. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  English 
grammar,  arithmetic,  writing,  geography,  mathematics, 
Latin,  and  Greek  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4., 
with  £25  fees. 

BOTHWELL,  a  parish,  in  the  Middle  ward  of  the 
count j' of  Lanark  ;  including  the  villages  of  Bellshill, 
Chapelhall,  Holytown,  Newarthill,  and  Uddingston ; 
and  containing  11,175  inhabitants,  of  whom  570  are  in 
the  village  of  Bothwell,  8  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Glasgow. 
The  name  is  supposed,  by  some,  to  be  derived  from 
Both,  an  eminence,  and  wall,  a  castle,  terms  applied  to 
the  parish  from  the  elevated  situation  of  Bothwell  Castle 
above  the  river  Clyde ;  others  derive  it  from  two  Celtic 
words,  both,  signifying  a  dwelling,  and  ael,  or  hyl,  a 
river,  as  descriptive  of  the  castle  in  its  contiguity  to  the 
river.  This  extensive  barony,  in  the  reign  of  Alexander 
I.,  was  held  by  Walter  Olifard,  justiciary  of  Lothian, 
who  died  in  1242 ;  it  afterwards  came  into  the  posses- 
sion of  the  family  of  Moray,  consisting,  at  that  date,  of 
a  tower  and  fortalice,  with  their  appurtenances,  and  of 
lands  in  various  districts,  constituting  a  lordship.  In 
the  time  of  Edward  I.  of  England,  it  became  a  place  of 
great  importance,  and  it  appears  that  that  monarch 
resided  in  the  castle  from  the  17th  to  the  20th  Sep- 
tember, 1301  ;  in  this  reign,  also,  it  was  the  residence 
of  Aylmer  de  Valence,  Earl  of  Pembroke,  who  fled 
hither  from  Loudon  Hill,  where  he  had  been  defeated  by 
Wallace,  in  1307,  and  who,  in  1309,  was  made  governor 
of  the  castles  of  Selkirk  and  Bothwell.  At  the  time  of 
the  battle  of  Bannockburn,  Sir  Walter  Fitzgilbert, 
ancestor  of  the  Hamilton  family,  was  governor ;  and 
after  the  death  of  Bruce,  when  Edward  III.  invaded 
Scotland,  in  1336,  the  king  was  at  the  castle  from  the 
18th  November  till  the  13th  December,  in  the  course  of 
which  time  fifteen  writs  were  issued  thence,  in  his  name. 
It  came,  at  length,  to  the  Earl  of  Bothwell,  from  whom 
it  descended  to  Archibald  the  Grim,  Earl  of  Douglas  ; 
and,  after  passing  through  many  other  hands,  it  re- 
verted to  the  ancient  family  of  Douglas  in  1715.  The 
collegiate  church  of  Bothwell  was  founded  on  the  10th 
October,  1398,  in  the  reign  of  Robert  II.,  by  the  first 
earl  of  Douglas,  for  a  provost  and  eight  prebendaries, 
and  was  richly  endowed.  Most  of  the  superiorities, 
with  part  of  the  property,  and  all  the  tithes,  now 
belong  to  the  Duke  of  Hamilton.  Bothwell-Bridge,  in 
the  southern  part  of  the  parish,  is  celebrated  in  history 
for]  the  battle  fought  there,  in  1679,  between  the  Cove- 
147 


nanters  and  the  Duke  of  Monmouth  ;  and  at  a  little 
distance,  is  Bothwell-Haugh,  formerly  the  property  of 
James  Hamilton,  who  shot  the  regent  Murray,  for  con- 
fiscating a  part  of  his  estate,  and  the  barbarous  treat- 
ment of  his  wife,  on  account  of  his  having  espoused  the 
cause  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots. 

The  parish  is,  in  extreme  length,  about  S5  miles,  and 
varies  in  breadth  from  2  to  4  miles,  containing  13,600 
acres ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  the 
North  Calder,  and  on  the  south,  by  the  South  Calder 
and  the  river  Clyde.  It  is  comprehended  by  the  elevated 
ground  running  along  the  north-eastern  bank  of  the 
Clyde  from  Lanark  to  near  Glasgow,  which  range,  how- 
ever, recedes  from  the  river  in  traversing  this  district, 
and  leaves  an  intermediate  plain,  till  it  again  inclines  to 
the  stream  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bothwell-Bridge. 
Near  this  it  forms  a  piece  of  table-land  of  about  one 
mile  in  extent,  running  to  the  westward,  at  the  head  of 
which  are  situated  the  church  and  village,  about  120 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  commanding  a  beau- 
tiful view,  to  the  east,  of  the  vale  of  Clyde.  From  the 
eastern  boundary  of  the  parish,  the  land  falls  rapidly  to 
a  distance  of  nearly  four  miles,  after  which  a  fiat  suc- 
ceeds, of  about  equal  length,  declining  southward  towards 
the  Calder  and  Clyde,  and  the  western  extremity  of 
this  tract  sinks  gradually  into  the  extensive  plain  on 
which  Glasgow  is  situated.  The  Clyde,  the  chief  river, 
enters  the  parish  at  Bothwell-Haugh,  and  forms  a  ma- 
jestic stream,  the  banks  of  which  are  famed  for  their 
diversified  and  picturesque  scenery;  it  is  120  yards 
broad  at  Blantyre- Works,  but  at  Bothwell-Bridge  con- 
tracts itself  to  a  span  of  Jl  yards.  The  North  and 
South  Calder,  after  running  separately  for  about  15 
miles,  form  each  a  confluence  with  the  Clyde  ;  they 
flow  between  banks  of  sandstone  rock,  beautifully  abrupt 
in  many  parts,  and  affording  well-wooded  and  romantic 
scenery.  Of  these  rivers,  the  Clyde,  once  so  celebrated 
for  the  abundance  of  its  salmon,  has  now  greatly  fallen 
off  in  this  respect,  very  few  fish  comparatively  visiting  it, 
owing  to  many  causes,  one  of  the  most  considerable  of 
which  is  said  to  be  the  impediment  presented  to  their 
progress  by  the  dam  thrown  over  the  river  between 
Blantyre  Mill  and  Bothwell. 

The  prevailing  sou.  is  clay,  resting  upon  a  tilly  sub- 
soil, and  is  frequently,  and  in  various  proportions, 
mixed  with  loam  and  sand  ;  in  some  places  it  consists 
of  fine  light  mould,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  rivers  is 
a  fertile  alluvial  deposit.  The  whole  land  is  productive, 
with  small  exceptions  of  moss  and  moor  ;  two-fifths  are 
in  pasture,  and  grain  of  all  kinds,  and  of  good  quality,  is 
raised ;  potatoes,  turnips,  peas,  &c,  are  also  cultivated 
in  considerable  quantities,  with  some  flax,  though  this 
last  is  not  grown  so  largely  as  formerly.  Very  great 
attention  is  given  to  dairy-farming,  there  being  no  less 
than  1000  cows  kept,  most  of  which  are  native  varie- 
ties of  the  Ayrshire  breed  ;  the  horses  are  in  general  like- 
wise of  a  good  stock.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £35,207.  The  predominating  rock  is  the 
red  sandstone,  which  lies  over  the  whole  coal-bed  in 
this  district,  at  a  distance  of  twenty  or  thirty  fathoms 
above  the  coal ;  it  is  bright  in  colour,  and,  though 
sometimes  soft  and  friable,  generally  well  adapted  to 
buildings.  There  are  several  quarries  of  good  freestone 
near  the  Clyde,  of  a  red  colour  ;  and  in  the  upper  parts 
of  the  parish,  white  freestone  is  found.     Coal  abounds 

U2 


BOTH 


BOUR 


in  every  direction,  and  four  large  seams,  from  which  it 
is  chiefly  procured,  extend  throughout  the  parish,  in 
which  the  Ell-coal,  Pyotshaw,  main,  and  splint  coal  suc- 
ceed each  other,  the  last  being  best  suited  for  the  smelt- 
ing of  iron  ;  the  average  amount  of  coal  obtained,  in 
value,  is  estimated  at  £80,000  annually,  and  of  iron- 
stone and  other  minerals,  £20,000. 

The  chief  mansion  is  Bothwell  Castle,  a  simple,  yet 
commodious  residence,  built  of  the  same  red  sandstone 
as  the  old  castle,  and  consisting  of  an  extensive  front 
and  two  wings  ;  the  apartments  are  ornamented  with 
several  excellent  portraits.  The  grounds  are  elegantly 
laid  out,  and  the  neighbouring  scenery,  comprising  the 
waters  of  the  Clyde  and  its  picturesque  banks,  is  enno- 
bled by  the  ancient  and  venerable  ruin  of  the  old 
castle.  The  mansion  of  Woodhall,  on  the  bank  of  the 
North  Calder,  is  a  spacious  building  in  the  style  of  the 
age  of  Louis  XIV.  ;  valuable  pictures  adorn  some  of  the 
apartments,  and  the  entrance-hall  contains  several 
French  cuirasses  and  helmets  of  brass,  brought  from 
the  field  of  Waterloo.  The  mansions  of  Cairnbroe  and 
St.  Enoch's  Hall,  both  on  the  North  Calder ;  Cleland, 
Carfin,  Jerviston,  and  Douglas  Park,  are  all  superior 
residences,  standing  in  the  midst  of  interesting  scenery  ; 
and  Bothwell  Park,  a  handsome  commanding  mansion, 
has  a  fine  view  of  the  fertile  haughs  of  Hamilton,  and 
of  the  vale  of  Clyde.  The  principal  manufactures  of  the 
parish  are  those  of  pig-iron  and  steel,  the  former  of 
which  is  produced  at  the  Monkland  Company's  works  at 
Chapelhall,  to  a  great  extent ;  about  100  tons  of  steel 
are  manufactured  annually,  30  tons  of  which  are  made 
into  files,  and  upwards  of  700  persons  are  employed  at 
the  works.  Other  similar  works  are  carried  on  in  the 
parish,  of  less  importance.  Post-offices  are  established 
at  Bothwell,  Bellshill,  and  Holytown,  and  the  Glasgow 
and  Edinburgh  coaches,  and  the  Hamilton,  Lanark, 
and  Strathaven  coaches,  pass  through  the  parish  ;  the 
Glasgow  and  Carlisle  mail  traverses  the  same  road,  and 
the  Wishaw  and  Coltness  railroad  intersects  the  parish, 
and  affords  great  facilities. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  pres- 
bytery of  Hamilton  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  the 
stipend  of  the  minister  is  £2S2.  14.  8.,  with  a  good 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £36  per  annum  ;  patron, 
the  Duke  of  Hamilton.  The  church,  which  is  a  supe- 
rior building,  in  the  pointed  style  of  architecture,  opened 
in  1833,  extends  72  feet  by  45,  and  contains  1200  sit- 
tings ;  the  cost  of  the  building  was  £4200,  and  it  has  a 
good  bell,  provided  by  the  parish,  at  an  expense  of  £150, 
and  a  clock  which  cost  £133,  raised  by  voluntary  sub- 
scription. A.  church  has  been  erected  at  Holytown, 
late  a  quoad  sacra  parish  ;  and  there  is  a  Relief  meeting- 
house at  Bellshill ;  also  a  meeting-house  at  Newarthill, 
belonging  to  the  United  Secession.  The  members  of  the 
Free  Church  have  likewise  a  place  of  worship.  Three 
parochial  schools  are  supported,  situated  respectively  at 
Bothwell,  Holytown,  and  Newarthill,  the  master  of  the 
first  of  which  has  a  house,  and  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4., 
with  £70  fees;  the  others  have  £8.  11.  each:  the 
classics,  mathematics,  and  all  the  usual  branches  of 
education  are  taught.  The  chief  relic  of  antiquity  in 
the  parish  is  the  magnificent  ruin  of  the  ancient  castle, 
situated  near  the  modern  castle,  on  the  summit  of  a 
verdant  slope,  in  the  midst  of  beautiful  woods  and  plea- 
sure-grounds. The  old  church,  which  was  originally  the 
148 


choir  of  the  collegiate  church  (the  most  famous  of  the 
five  collegiate  churches  in  Lanarkshire),  is  a  very  fine 
specimen  of  ancient  architecture  ;  it  was  built  about 
139S,  and  disused  as  a  church  in  1S28.  Bothwell 
bridge  is  of  great  antiquity,  though  the  age  is  not  pre- 
cisely known  ;  it  originally  consisted  of  four  arches, 
eacli  spanning  45  feet,  and  measuring  15  feet  in  breadth, 
but  it  has  been  considerably  enlarged,  within  these  few 
years,  by  which  an  additional  width  of  road  is  obtained. 
There  is  another  bridge,  supposed  to  be  of  Roman 
construction,  across  the  South  Calder,  consisting  of  one 
arch  of  semicircular  form,  high  and  narrow,  without 
parapets ;  it  is  supposed  to  have  been  on  the  line  of 
the  great  Roman  Watling-strcet,  which  ran  through 
this  part  of  the  country,  on  the  north-east  bank  of  the 
Clyde.  Chalybeate  springs  are  very  numerous  in  the 
district,  and  many  of  them  are  strongly  sulphuretted. 
The  celebrated  Joanna  Baillie  was  born  in  the  manse, 
during  the  incumbency  of  her  father,  the  Rev.  James 
Baillie. 

BOTRIPHNIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Banff, 
5§  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Keith  ;  containing  714  inhabit- 
ants. This  parish  is  situated  in  the  narrowest  part  of 
the  county,  comprehending  its  whole  breadth,  bounded 
by  Aberdeenshire  on  the  south,  and  on  the  north  by 
Moray,  and  measures  about  four  and  a  half  miles  from 
north  to  south,  and  three  from  east  to  west.  It  con- 
sists principally  of  a  beautiful  vale,  lying  between  two 
ridges  of  hills,  respectively  on  the  north  and  south,  and 
comprises  93S6  acres,  of  which  4360  are  in  tillage,  3540 
waste  and  pasture,  430  of  these  being  considered  capable 
of  profitable  cultivation,  and  1486  acres  are  under  na- 
tural wood  and  plantations.  The  strath  is  watered  by 
the  small  river  Isla,  which,  taking  its  rise  at  a  loch  in 
the  western  portion,  runs  between  banks  beautifully 
ornamented  with  alder  and  birch  trees.  The  soil  is  a 
rich  black  loam  in  some  places,  and  in  others,  a  strong 
clay,  incumbent  on  a  bed  of  limestone,  replete  with 
numerous  springs  of  fine  water.  A  large  extent  of 
land,  consisting  of  alluvial  soil,  has  been  added,  in  later 
times,  to  the  cultivated  ground,  by  the  straightening 
of  the  course  of  the  river,  and  now  produces,  in  good 
seasons,  heavy  crops  of  grain ;  extensive  tracts,  also,  of 
moor  or  rough  pasture  have  been  brought  under  tillage, 
chiefly  by  the  use  of  the  lime  so  plentiful  in  the  locality. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2620.  The 
only  mansion  is  Botriphnie  House,  a  shooting-seat.  A 
public  road  from  the  upper  districts  passes  through  to 
Keith  and  Banff,  and  has  two  branches  near  the  centre 
of  the  parish,  one  leading  to  Huntly,  and  the  other  to 
Fochabers  and  Elgin.  A  fair,  called,  from  a  tutelary 
saint,  Fumach  fair,  is  held  on  the  15th  of  February,  for 
general  commodities  and  for  horses,  few,  however,  of  the 
latter  being  brought  for  sale.  The  parish  is  in  the  pres- 
bytery of  Strathbogie  and  synod  of  Moray,  and  in  the 
patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Fife  ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £17S.  15.  5.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  six  acres, 
valued  at  £10  per  annum.  The  church  was  built  in 
IS20,  and  has  lately  been  repaired  and  renovated. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual 
branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  a  house, 
£7  fees,  and  a  part  of  the  Dick  bequest. 

BOURT1E,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Garioch, 
county  of  Aberdeen,  1^  mile  (S.  w.)  from  Old  Meldrum  ; 
containing  469   inhabitants.     This  parish  in  figure  re- 


BOWD 


BOWD 


sembles  an  irregular  triangle.  It  measures  five  miles  in 
length,  from  east  to  west,  and  about  two  in  average 
breadth,  and  comprises  5000  acres,  of  which  nearly 
3600  are  under  cultivation,  360  in  plantations,  consisting 
chiefly  of  Scotch  fir  and  larch,  1000  uncultivated  and 
waste,  and  a  few  acres  covered  with  moss,  supplying 
peat,  principally  used  as  fuel.  The  surface  is  dis- 
tinguished by  two  bold  elevations,  about  600  feet  in 
height,  rising  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  parish,  a  mile 
from  each  other,  the  one  on  the  north  being  called  the 
Hill  of  Barra,  and  the  other  the  Hil)  of  Lawhill-side ; 
they  run  towards  the  east,  to  the  extremity  of  the  dis- 
trict, and,  uniting  there,  terminate  in  the  Hill  of  Kin- 
goody.  The  soil,  in  some  parts,  is  a  strong  clay,  but 
more  frequently  a  light  loam,  and  the  usual  crops  are, 
oats,  turnips,  potatoes,  and  various  grasses ;  the  rota- 
tion of  crops  practised  here  is,  as  in  most  other  parts 
of  the  county,  what  is  called  the  seven-shift,  which 
is  considered  the  most  suitable  to  the  nature  of  the 
land.  Between  300  and  400  acres  of  waste  have  been 
brought  under  cultivation  within  the  last  few  years,  and 
nearly  two-thirds  of  the  remaining  portion  are  con- 
sidered capable  of  the  same  improvement ;  the  rocks 
are  of  the  trap  formation,  and  some  suppose  that  the 
summit  of  the  Hill  of  Barra  is  the  crater  of  an  ancient 
volcano.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£3150.  There  are  two  gentlemen's  seats,  Bourtie 
House  and  Barra,  of  which  the  latter  is  a  venerable 
castle,  forming  three  sides  of  a  quadrangle,  with  turrets 
at  two  of  the  angles.  The  road  from  Aberdeen  to  Banff 
passes  through  a  corner  of  the  district.  The  parish  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Garioch  and  synod  of  Aberdeen, 
and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £'230,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe,  valued 
at  £10  per  annum.  The  church,  situated  in  about  the 
centre  of  the  parish,  is  a  plain  structure,  containing  300 
sittings,  built  in  1807.  The  parochial  school  affords 
instruction  in  the  ordinary  branches  of  education  ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  a  house,  and  £S  fees. 
Several  cairns  and  Druidical  circles  are  to  be  seen ;  but 
the  chief  relic  of  antiquity  is  a  fortification  on  the  Hill  of 
Barra,  called  "  Cummings'  Camp,"  from  having  been 
either  constructed  or  used  by  the  Cummings,  who  were 
proprietors  of  the  greater  part  of  Buchan,  at  the  time  of 
the  celebrated  engagement  which  took  place  near  In- 
verury,  when  they  were  routed  by  King  Robert  Bruce. 

BOWDEN,  a  parish,  situated  in  the  district  of 
Melrose,  county  of  Roxburgh,  3  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from 
Melrose;  containing,  with  the  village  of  Midlem,  S57 
inhabitants,  of  whom  253  are  in  the  village  of  Bowden. 
This  parish,  which,  in  ancient  records,  is  called  Bothen- 
den,  Botheldene,  and  Boulden,  was,  early  in  the  I2th 
century,  granted  to  the  abbey  of  Selkirk,  by  a  charter 
of  David  I.,  in  which  it  is  designated  by  the  first  of 
these  names ;  and  in  subsequent  charters,  confirming 
that  grant,  by  Malcolm  IV.,  in  1159,  and  by  Walter, 
Bishop  of  Glasgow,  in  1232,  it  is  mentioned  by  the  latter 
appellations,  probably  corruptions  of  the  former.  The 
monks  had  a  grange  at  Holydean,  in  this  parish,  which, 
in  the  16th  century,  was  given  by  royal  charter  to  Sir 
Walter  Ker,  of  Cessford,  ancestor  of  the  dukes  of  Rox- 
burghe,  as  a  reward  for  his  services  during  the  border 
warfare.  A  strong  fortress  was  erected  by  the  pro- 
prietor, on  the  lands  of  Holydean,  which  was  occasion- 
ally the  residence  of  the  family ;  but,  at  present,  very 
149 


little  is  remaining,  the  greater  portion  having  been  re- 
moved, during  the  minority  of  John,  the  third  duke,  by 
his  grace's  agent,  to  furnish  materials  for  the  erection  of 
a  large  farm-bouse  and  offices.  The  court-yard,  com- 
prising an  area  of  nearly  an  acre,  was  inclosed  with 
walls  of  stone,  four  feet  in  thickness,  and  sixteen  feet 
high,  pierced  at  intervals  for  the  discharge  of  arrows  and 
musketry,  and  having  an  arched  gateway  defended  with 
a  strong  portcullis.  Within  the  inclosure,  were  two 
strong  towers,  the  one  three,  and  the  other  five,  stories 
high,  containing  many  spacious  apartments,  and  every 
requisite  for  a  baronial  residence.  Part  of  the  wall  on 
the  south  side  is  remaining,  but  greatly  dilapidated;  and 
near  it,  is  the  ancient  well  of  the  castle,  which  affords  a 
supply  of  excellent  water  to  the  family  living  at  the 
farm-house.  About  500  acres  of  the  farm  of  Holydean 
are  inclosed  with  a  wall  of  loose  stones,  which  has  stood 
for  more  than  three  centuries,  and  is  still  in  good  condi- 
tion ;  this  inclosure  is,  in  an  old  lease,  called  the  "  Great 
Deer  Park  of  Haliedean." 

The  parish  is  situated  on  the  river  Ale,  by  which  it  is 
bounded  on  the  south,  and  is  about  five  miles  in  length, 
and  four  in  breadth,  comprising  above  6000  acres,  of 
which  3460  are  arable,  2531  meadow  and  pasture,  260 
woodland  and  plantations,  and  30  garden  and  orchards. 
The  surface  is  broken  by  a  series  of  parallel  ridges,  ex- 
tending from  east  to  west,  and  declining  in  height  to- 
wards the  south,  between  which  are  fertile  valleys  of 
various  breadth,  watered  by  rivulets  flowing  eastward 
into  the  Tweed  ;  and  towards  the  south-west,  are  some 
smaller  streams,  which  fall  into  the  river  Ale.  One  of 
the  Eildon  hills,  and  part  of  another,  rising  in  three 
conical  summits,  to  the  height  of  900  feet  above  the 
general  level,  and  about  1360  above  that  of  the  sea,  are 
within  the  limits  of  the  parish,  and  form  conspicuous 
objects  in  the  landscape.  The  scenery  is  pleasingly  en- 
riched with  plantations  of  modern  growth,  and  the 
several  demesnes  of  the  chief  proprietors  contain  many 
trees  of  lofty  and  venerable  appearance  ;  in  the  ancient 
park  of  the  Duke  of  Roxburghe,  is  some  fine  timber  ;  at 
Holydean,  is  a  wood  of  about  forty  acres,  chiefly  birch- 
trees,  of  great  age,  and  around  the  churchyard  are  some 
of  the  largest,  sycamores  and  ash-trees  in  this  part  of 
the  country.  The  soil,  towards  the  north  and  west,  is  a 
stiff  clay  of  considerable  depth  ;  in  the  southern  part, 
especially  on  the  ridges,  lighter  and  more  friable  ;  and 
in  the  valleys,  a  rich  deep  loam.  The  substratum  is 
generally  whinstone  ;  and  in  some  parts  are  consider- 
able tracts  of  moss,  below  which  shell  marl  is  found, 
resting  on  a  layer  of  fine  blue  clay.  The  system  of  agri- 
culture is  highly  improved,  and  the  crops  are  favourable  ; 
lime,  marl,  guano,  and  bone-dust  are  the  manures. 
Considerable  improvements  have  been  made  in  draining 
and  inclosing  the  lands,  and  in  the  breed  of  sheep  and 
cattle,  of  which  great  numbers  are  fed  ;  the  sheep  are 
mostly  of  the  Leicester  and  the  Cheviot  kind,  and  occa- 
sionally a  cross  between  them,  which  is  on  the  increase  ; 
the  cattle  are  chiefly  of  the  short-horned  breed.  Numbers 
of  small  highland  cattle  are  pastured  here  during  the 
winter,  and  fattened  in  the  summer,  and  sold  to  the 
butchers.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£4963.  Among  ths  seats  is  Kippilaw,  a  handsome 
mansion,  pleasantly  situated  in  a  demesne  embellished 
with  timber  of  luxuriant  growth ;  Cavers  and  Linthill 
are   also  substantial   residences.     The  village  contains 


B  O  WE 


BOWM 


little  remarkable,  except  an  ancient  cross  in  the  centre, 
of  which  the  date  is  unknown  :  the  remains  of  one 
or  two  small  towers  or  peels,  of  which  there  were  several 
within  the  last  twenty-five  years,  containing,  in  the 
lower  part,  a  place  for  cattle,  and  in  the  upper,  apart- 
ments for  the  family,  to  which  access  was  afforded  by  a 
stone  staircase  on  the  outside,  were  lately  removed. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Selkirk  and  synod 
of  Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and  patronage  of  the  Duke  of 
Roxburghe  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £211.  11.  7-,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum.  The 
church,  situated  near  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish, 
is  an  ancient  structure,  of  which  the  original  foundation 
is  unknown;  it  affords  accommodation  for  nearly  400 
persons,  and  is  in  a  state  of  good  repair ;  the  oldest 
date  that  appears  on  any  part  of  the  building,  is  1666. 
Under  the  east  end  is  the  funereal  vault  of  the  Ker 
family,  containing  twenty-one  coffins,  ranged  along  the 
sides  of  the  building,  among  which  are  those  of  five 
dukes  of  Roxburghe,  predecessors  of  the  present  duke. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church  and  the  Associate  Synod  of  Original  Seceders. 
Two  parochial  schools  were  until  lately  supported,  one 
in  the  village  of  Bowden,  and  the  other  in  that  of 
Midlem,  but  the  latter  has  been  discontinued  ;  the  mas- 
ter of  the  former  has  a  salary  of  £30  per  annum,  with 
a  house  and  garden  rent-free,  and  the  fees  produce  £12. 
The  remains  of  a  military  road,  with  stations,  or  camps, 
of  a  circular  form,  at  intervals  of  more  than  two  miles, 
uniformly  occupying  eminences  in  view  of  each  other, 
may  be  traced  in  various  places,  extending  across  the 
centre  of  the  parish,  in  a  direction  from  south-east  to 
north-west.  Where  not  obliterated  by  the  plough,  the 
road  may  be  traced,  in  the  form  of  a  ditch  about  twenty 
feet  in  width,  and,  in  some  places,  in  the  form  of  two 
parallel  ditches,  with  an  interval  between  them  of  fifty 
feet  in  width.  Warlike  instruments  of  different  kinds 
have  been  discovered  by  the  plough,  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  the  road,  and  also  in  the  adjacent 
mosses.  On  the  summit  of  a  precipice  at  Holydean, 
nearly  150  yards  from  the  principal  farm-house,  and 
overhanging  a  deep  dell  called  Ringans-Dean,  was  an 
ancient  chapel  and  burying-place  ;  the  foundations  of  the 
building  may  yet  be  traced,  and  grave-stones,  handles  of 
coffins,  and  human  bones  have  been  frequently  found 
near  the  site.  It  has  been  conjectured  that  from  this 
ecclesiastical  establishment  the  place  derived  the  name 
of  Holydean.  Trees  of  various  kinds,  and  of  very  large 
dimensions,  have  been  discovered  in  the  mosses,  while 
digging  for  peat  and  marl ;  they  are  chiefly  oak,  ash,  and 
fir,  and  have  been  found  generally  at  a  considerable  depth 
below  the  surface. 

BOWER,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Caithness, 
7  miles  (W.)  from  Keiss ;  containing  16S9  inhabitants. 
This  place  is  said  to  derive  its  name  from  a  Danish 
word  signifying  "  a  valley,"  and  the  application  of  the 
term  to  this  locality  seems  to  be  by  no  means  inappro- 
priate. The  parish  is  about  twelve  miles  long,  and  four 
broad,  and  the  surface  is  in  general  low  and  flat,  being 
diversified  only  by  a  ridge  of  green  hills,  of  small  eleva- 
tion, running  from  north  to  south,  through  the  whole  : 
on  an  eminence  in  this  ridge,  near  Bower-Tower,  is  a 
large  perpendicular  stone  called  Stone  Lude  or  Lutt, 
supposed  to  mark  the  sepulchre  of  some  Danish  or 
Norwegian  chief  who  fell  here.  The  soil  of  the  arable 
150 


land  consists  mostly  of  strong  clay  and  loam,  and  the 
subsoil  is  clay ;  in  some  hollows  and  valleys,  a  fine  rich 
marl  is  obtained  in  great  abundance,  and  extensively 
and  very  beneficially  used  as  manure.  The  parish  is 
altogether  agricultural  and  pastoral,  and  the  recent  pre- 
valence of  sheep-farming  has  diminished  the  import- 
ance of  the  former  branch,  and  given  to  the  latter  a  de- 
cided predominance  ;  grain  and  live  stock  are  frequently 
sent  to  the  south,  being  shipped  at  Wick,  by  steamers 
or  trading  vessels.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £4300.  The  rocks  are  of  the  primitive  class ; 
a  vein  of  copper  was  discovered  some  time  ago,  but  was 
never  worked.  Barrack  House  and  Stempster  House, 
both  modern  edifices,  Stanstill,  and  Tister,  are  the  prin- 
cipal residences.  The  population  is  scattered  among 
the  rural  districts ;  many,  in  consequence  of  the  ne- 
cessary expulsion  of  agricultural  labourers,  by  the  ex- 
tensive introduction  of  sheep-farming,  have  been  driven 
to  the  moors,  or  to  seek  a  livelihood  in  foreign  lands. 
Four  annual  fairs  are  held  here,  namely,  Campster  fair, 
on  the  Tuesday  after  St.  Patrick's-day,  Lyth  fair,  on  the 
second  Tuesday  of  October,  St.  Maud's,  on  the  second 
Tuesday  in  November  (all  O.  S.),  and  Stanstill,  held  in 
November ;  also  a  cattle-market  every  Wednesday,  from 
June  till  October,  inclusive.  The  post-road,  which  is 
in  good  condition,  passes  through  the  south-west  part 
of  the  parish,  for  several  miles,  and  there  are  also  some 
good  county  roads,  one  of  which  joins  the  post-road 
above  Halkirk,  on  the  hill  of  Sordal.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Caithness  and 
synod  of  Caithness  and  Sutherland  ;  patron,  Sir  James 
Colquhoun,  Bart.  ;  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is 
£191.  4.  6.,  with  a  manse  and  glebe.  The  church  is 
ancient,  and  the  number  of  its  sittings  is  computed  at 
441  :  a  parochial  school  is  supported,  at  which  the  usual 
branches  are  taught,  and  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£35.  16.,  with  £14  fees.  Here  are  several  Druidical 
circles  or  temples,  as  well  as  numerous  tumuli ;  the 
most  striking  is  the  cairn  of  Heather  Cow,  which  is 
surrounded  by  six  or  seven  circles  of  large  stones, 
and  situated  on  an  eminence  commanding  an  extensive 
prospect. 

BOWLING-BAY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Old 
Kilpatrick,  county  of  Dumbarton,  5  miles  (E.  by  S.) 
from  Dumbarton ;  containing  1S2  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  and 
on  the  road  which  passes,  close  by  the  river,  from 
Glasgow  to  Dumbarton ;  the  locality  is  very  beautiful, 
and  immediately  opposite,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Clyde,  is  Erskine  House,  the  fine  seat  of  Lord  Blantyre. 
At  this  place,  the  Forth  and  Clyde  canal  terminates. 

BOWMORE,  a  village  and  small  sea-port,  in  the 
parish  of  Kilarrow,  district  of  Islay,  county  of  Argyll, 
IO3  miles  (S.  S.  W.)  from  Port-Askaig.  This  place  is 
situated  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Loch  Indal.  The  vil- 
lage was  first  commenced  in  1768,  and  consists  of  several 
well-formed  and  regular  streets,  intersecting  each  other 
at  right  angles,  of  which  the  principal,  a  spacious  street, 
leads  from  the  quay,  by  a  gradual  ascent,  to  the  church ; 
and  another,  crossing  this  at  right  angles,  terminates  at 
the  parochial  school.  The  houses  are  generally  neatly 
built,  though  in  some  of  the  smaller  streets  are  many  of 
inferior  appearance.  Since  its  commencement,  the  vil- 
lage has  rapidly  increased  in  extent  and  population,  and 
it  is  now  the  seat  of  the  presbytery  of  Islay  and  Jura ; 


B  R  A  C 


B  R  E  C 


a  neat  building,  containing  a  spacious  assembly-room, 
has  been  erected,  to  which  is  attached  a  room  for  the 
temporary  confinement  of  petty  offenders.  The  environs 
are  pleasant,  and  derive  much  interest  from  the  grounds 
of  Islay  House.  A  very  extensive  distillery  of  whisky 
is  carried  on  here  ;  and  there  are  several  vessels  belong- 
ing to  the  port,  employed  in  the  coasting  trade,  which 
is  considerable.  The  harbour  is  commodious,  and  ac- 
cessible to  the  quay,  for  vessels  drawing  eight  or  nine 
feet  water,  at  ordinary  tides  ;  the  quay,  which  was 
constructed  by  Mr.  Campbell,  is  substantial,  and  well 
adapted  to  the  purpose.  A  post-office,  with  a  daily  de- 
livery, has  been  established ;  and  facility  of  communi- 
cation is  afforded  by  a  good  road  to  Port-Askaig,  on 
the  Sound  of  Jura. 

BO  WRIEFAULD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dun- 
nichen,  county  of  Forfar,  2  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from 
Letham  ;  containing  109  inhabitants. 

BOYNDIE,  county  Banff. — See  Boindie. 

BRACADALE,  a  parish,  in  the  Isle  of  Skye,  county 
of  Inverness,  12  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Dunvegan ;  con- 
taining 1S24  inhabitants.  This  parish  is  washed  on  the 
south  and  south-west  by  the  sea;  it  is  about  twenty 
miles  in  length,  and  eight  in  extreme  breadth,  and  com- 
prises 73,189  acres,  of  which  4S78  are  arable,  and  the 
remainder  pasture  and  hill-grazing.  The  coast  extends 
for  about  sixty  miles,  and  is  very  irregular,  being  in- 
dented by  numerous  arms  of  the  sea,  and,  though  occa- 
sionally flat,  is  in  most  parts  bold  and  rocky,  and  the 
beach  very  rough  and  stony.  At  the  southern  extremity, 
is  the  headland  of  Rhuandunan,  and  towards  the  west, 
Tallisker-head,  at  the  southern  entrance  of  Loch  Braca- 
dale,  which,  and  Loch  Eynort,  are  the  principal  har- 
bours, both  affording  convenient  and  secure  anchorage 
to  vessels  of  any  burthen.  The  chief  islands  are,  Soay, 
on  the  south-east;  and  Vuiay  and  Taarner,  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  Loch  Bracadale,  opposite  Tallisker-head, 
to  the  north.  The  surface  in  the  interior  is  generally 
hilly,  and  the  most  conspicuous  eminences  are  part  of 
the  range  of  Coullin,  highly  picturesque  in  appearance, 
and  stretching  along  the  boundary  between  this  district 
and  Strath.  A  few  detached  fields  are  seen  adjacent  to 
the  coast,  but  the  low  grounds  and  valleys  are  chiefly  in 
that  district  called  Minginish,  where  the  vale  of  Tallis- 
ker  is  particularly  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  scenery. 
The  parish  is  for  the  most  part  pastoral,  and  about 
4500  sheep,  and  450  black-cattle,  are  annually  exported; 
the  soil  near  the  bays  is  sandy  or  clayey,  but  in  some 
of  the  lower  grounds  remarkably  fertile  :  the  small  por- 
tions xinder  tillage  are  always  let  in  connexion  with 
pasture.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£3921.  The  inhabitants  generally  are  exceedingly  poor, 
and  upon  the  lowest  scale  with  respect  to  clothing  and 
food ;  the  road  from  Inverness  to  Dunvegan  passes 
through  the  district,  and  there  is  a  post-office  at  Struan. 
At  the  village  of  Carbost  is  a  celebrated  distillery. 
A  fair  for  the  sale  of  black-cattle  and  sheep  is  held  at 
Sligechan,  on  the  third  Tuesday  in  September.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Skye  and  synod  of  Glenelg, 
and  in  the  patronage  of  the  family  of  Macleod,  of  Mac- 
leod ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £15S.  6.  8.,  of  which 
half  is  received  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  of  30  acres,  valued  at  £15  per  annum.  The 
church,  built  in  1831,  is  conveniently  situated  near  the 
public  road,  and  contains  between  500  and  600  sittings. 
151 


There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church ;  also  an  episcopal  chapel.  A  missionary  is 
supported  by  the  Royal  bounty,  and  the  parochial  school 
affords  instruction  in  Gaelic,  English,  writing,  and  arith- 
metic ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £28. 

BRACO,  a  village,  in  that  part  of  the  parish  of 
Mtjthill  which  constituted  the  district  of  Ardoch, 
county  of  Perth  ;  containing  3/0  inhabitants.  This 
village,  which  is  rapidly  increasing  in  extent,  owes  its 
origin  to  the  erection  of  a  chapel  of  ease  for  this  district 
of  the  parish  ;  the  houses  are  neatly  built,  and  it  has 
already  attained  sufficient  importance  to  be  the  resort 
of  the  neighbouring  farmers,  for  the  purchase  of  cattle, 
for  which  two  large  fairs  are  held  annually.  A  library 
is  supported  by  subscription. — See  Ardoch. 

BRAEHEAD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Carnwath, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  3|  miles  (N.) 
from  Carnwath;  containing  312  inhabitants.  This  vil- 
lage, which  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  road  to  Wilson- 
town,  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  persons  engaged  in  agri- 
cultural pursuits,  and  partly  by  others  employed  in 
weaving  at  their  own  dwellings,  for  the  Glasgow  and 
Paisley  manufacturers.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  New  Light  Burghers. 

BRAEMAR,  Aberdeen. — See  Crathie. 
BRAGRUM,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Methven, 
county  of  Perth  ;   containing  44  inhabitants. 

BRAIDWOOD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Carluke, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  4  miles  (N.  W.) 
from  Lanark  ;  containing  234  inhabitants.  It  is  on  the 
great  Roman  Watling-street,  and  was  formerly  a  pos- 
session of  the  earls  and  marquesses  of  Douglas  ;  in  the 
vicinity,  lime  and  iron  stoue  are  found,  and,  on  the 
Braidwood  estate,  a  vein  of  fine  encrinal  marble. 

BRECHIN,  a  burgh, 
market-town,  and  parish,  in 
the  county  of  Forfar,  8 
miles  (W.  by  N.)  from  Mon- 
trose, and  66  (N.  N.  E.)  from 
Edinburgh  ;  containing,  with 
the  village  of  Trinity-Muir, 
7560  inhabitants,  of  whom 
29S6  are  in  the  late  East 
quoad  sacra  parish,  and  120  in 
the  village  of  Little  Brechin. 

This  place  derives  its  name, 
Burgh  Seal.  of   Gaelic    originj    from    its 

situation  on  an  acclivity  rising  from  the  banks  of  the 
river  South  Esk  ;  it  is  of  very  considerable  antiquity, 
and  was  formerly  the  seat  of  a  diocese,  the  cathedral  of 
which  is  now  the  church  of  the  parish.  During  the 
wars  between  the  Scots  and  the  English,  in  the  reign  of 
Edward  I.,  Sir  Thomas  Maule,  lord  of  Brechin  Castle, 
defended  it,  for  some  time,  against  the  assaults  of  the 
English  whom  that  monarch  had  sent  to  reduce  it,  till, 
being  killed  by  a  stone  slung  from  an  engine  by  the 
besiegers,  the  garrison  capitulated,  and  surrendered  the 
castle  to  the  English.  A  battle  took  place  in  the 
vicinity,  in  1452,  between  the  forces  of  the  Earl  of 
Huntly,  and  those  of  the  Earl  of  Crawford,  in  which 
the  latter  were  defeated,  and  which,  from  the  proximity 
of  the  spot  whereon  it  was  fought,  has  been  invariably 
called  the  battle  of  Brechin.  In  1573,  Sir  Andrew 
Gordon,  an  adherent  of  the  unfortunate  Mary,  Queen 
of   Scots,  and  who  was   then  besieging  the   Castle  of 


BREC 


BREC 


Glenbervie,  hearing  that  a  party  of  the  king's  friends 
were  assembled  at  this  place,  attacked  them  early  in  the 
morning,  and  surprised  and  cut  off  the  whole  of  the 
force.  The  castle  of  Brechin,  a  place  of  great  strength, 
and,  from  its  situation  on  the  summit  of  an  abrupt 
precipice,  regarded,  before  the  use  of  artillery,  as  im- 
pregnable, had  been  long  the  baronial  seat  of  the  family 
of  Maule,  afterwards  created  earls  of  Panmure  ;  this 
title  was  forfeited  on  the  rebellion  of  1715,  but  was 
revived  by  William  IV.,  at  his  coronation,  who  granted 
the  title  of  Baron  of  Panmure  to  their  descendant.  The 
building  is  of  various  dates  and  styles  of  architecture, 
and  the  demesne  abounds  with  romantic  and  beautiful 
scenery,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  river. 

The  town  is  situated  on  the  rising  banks  of  the 
South  Esk  river,  over  which  there  is  a  very  interest- 
ing bridge  of  stone,  supposed  to  be  the  most  ancient 
structure  of  the  kind  in  the  kingdom  ;  it  is  neatly  built, 
consisting  of  several  well-formed  streets,  and  a  spacious 
market-place,  nearly  in  the  centre.  A  handsome  build- 
ing in  the  Elizabethan  style,  with  a  tower  SO  feet  high, 
has  been  recently  erected  at  the  entrance  of  the  town, 
by  Lord  Panmure,  for  the  use  of  a  literary  and  sci- 
entific institution ;  it  contains  a  lecture-room  and  li- 
brary, and  many  valuable  paintings,  presented  by  his 
lordship.  The  streets  are  macadamized,  and  the  ap- 
proaches have  been  levelled,  to  render  the  place  easier 
of  access.  The  trade  arises  principally  from  weaving, 
and  the  several  handicraft  trades  requisite  for  the  supply 
of  the  neighbourhood  ;  there  are  two  mills  for  spinning 
flax,  in  which  about  300  persons  are  engaged,  and  from 
1200  to  1500  of  the  inhabitants  are  employed  in  weaving 
coarse  linens.  About  sixty  are  employed  in  heckling, 
and  from  seventy  to  eighty  in  bleaching  ;  two  distilleries 
for  making  whisky  from  malt,  have  been  erected  in  the 
vicinity,  which  are  conducted  on  an  extensive  scale,  and 
are  in  full  operation.  There  are  two  fishing  stations  on 
the  South  Esk,  within  the  parish,  where  salmon  are 
taken  in  considerable  numbers.  The  post-office  has  a 
daily  delivery,  and  every  facility  of  intercourse  is  afforded 
by  good  roads ;  a  bridge  has  been  built  at  Stannachy 
ford,  to  continue  a  new  road  from  Arbroath  to  Dundee. 
The  Forfar  and  Arbroath  railway  passes  through  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  parish,  and  about  six  miles 
from  the  town  ;  and  it  is  in  contemplation  to  lay  down  a 
railroad  to  Montrose,  which,  if  carried  into  effect,  will 
greatly  contribute  to  the  prosperity  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  district.  The  market,  which  is  abundantly 
supplied  with  corn  and  agricultural  produce,  and 
numerously  attended  by  the  farmers  of  a  widely-ex- 
tended district,  is  held  weekly  on  Tuesday,  and  there 
are  weekly  marts  for  horses  and  cattle,  from  the  last 
Tuesday  in  February  till  the  last  Tuesday  in  March. 
Fairs  are  held  at  Trinity-Muir,  about  a  mile  from  the 
town,  four  times  in  the  year,  of  which  that  on  the 
second  Wednesday  in  June,  for  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep, 
continues  for  three  days,  and  is  one  of  the  most  con- 
siderable in  the  county.  From  time  immemorial  the 
town  has  been  a  royal  burgh,  and  the  government  is 
vested  in  a  provost,  two  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  trea- 
surer, and  a  council  of  eight  burgesses,  assisted  by  a 
town- clerk,  and  other  officers.  There  are  six  incorpo- 
rated trades,  viz.  the  hammermen,  glovers,  bakers,  shoe- 
makers, weavers,  and  tailors,  all  of  whom,  except  the 
weavers,  have  the  exclusive  privilege  of  carrying  on  trade 

152 


within  the  burgh.  The  provost,  bailies,  and  dean  of 
guild  are  magistrates,  by  virtue  of  their  office,  and  their 
jurisdiction  extends  over  the  whole  of  the  royalty ;  they 
hold  a  bailie-court  every  Wednesday,  for  the  determi- 
nation of  civil  pleas  to  any  amount,  and  also  for  the 
trial  of  criminal  cases,  in  which  they  are  assisted  by  the 
town-clerk,  who  acts  as  assessor.  The  burgh  is  asso- 
ciated with  those  of  Arbroath,  Bervie,  Forfar,  and  Mon- 
trose, in  returning  a  member  to  the  imperial  parlia- 
ment ;  the  elective  franchise,  previously  vested  in  the 
corporation  of  the  town,  was  extended,  by  the  act  of 
the  2nd  and  3rd  of  William  IV.,  to  resident  £10  house- 
holders within  the  parliamentai-y  -boundary.  The  pro- 
vost is  the  returning  officer.  The  town-hall,  situated 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  was  built  in  the  year 
1 7 S9  5  it  is  a  neat  structure,  containing,  on  the  first 
story,  a  good  hall,  with  smaller  apartments  for  the 
meetings  of  the  council,  and  below  them  a  court-room 
and  a  prison. 

The  parish  comprises  about  15,840  acres,  of  which 
9S40  are  arable,  3260  woodland  and  plantations,  and 
2J40  rough  pasture  and  waste ;  the  surface  is  generally 
level,  rising  in  some  parts  into  gentle  undulations,  and 
the  only  eminence  that  deserves  the  name  of  a  hill,  is 
that  of  Burghill,  to  the  south  of  the  town.  The  pre- 
vailing scenery  is  agreeably  diversified,  and  enlivened 
with  numerous  thriving  plantations ;  and  from  several 
points  of  view,  the  Grampian  hills  form  a  conspicuous 
feature  in  the  distant  landscape.  The  soil,  though 
various,  is  mostly  fertile  ;  the  chief  crops  are,  oats, 
barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the  lands  are  well 
drained,  and  every  recent  improvement  in  husbandry 
has  been  adopted,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Eastern 
Forfarshire  Farming  Association,  established  here  in 
IS  14,  under  the  patronage  of  Lord  Panmure,  and  which 
has  its  meetings  in  spring  and  autumn,  when  cattle- 
shows  are  held  on  Trinity-Muir,  and  prizes  are  awarded 
to  the  most  successful  competitors.  The  utmost  atten- 
tion is  paid  to  live  stock  ;  the  sheep  are  of  the  black- 
faced  breed,  but  a  very  small  number  is  kept ;  the 
cattle  are  of  the  Angus  breed  generally,  with,  of  late, 
an  occasional  intermixture  of  the  short-horned  or  Tee- 
water.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£21,563,  including  £7960  for  the  burgh.  In  the  vici- 
nity of  the  town,  are  three  nurseries,  comprising  together 
about  25  acres,  well  stocked  with  forest-trees,  for  sup- 
plying the  plantations  of  the  district,  and  with  fruit- 
trees  of  various  kinds,  and  ornamental  shrubs  and  ever- 
greens ;  there  are  also  several  orchards.  The  substrata 
are  chiefly  the  old  red  sandstone,  with  limestone,  and 
also  sandstone  of  a  greyish  colour,  of  good  quality  for 
building,  and  susceptible  of  a  high  polish  ;  of  this  stone, 
the  tower  and  spire  of  the  old  cathedral  were  built. 
The  limestone  is  extensively  quarried  for  manure,  and 
there  are  at  present  three  lime-works  in  operation  ;  also 
several  quarries  of  freestone. 

The  parish  is  the  seat  of  the  presbytery  of  Brechin, 
in  the  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the  church,  for- 
merly cathedral,  has  two  ministers,  respectively  of  the 
first  and  second  charges.  The  stipend  of  the  first  charge 
is  £283.  3.  10.,  and  the  minister  resides  in  a  house 
erected  about  fifty  years  since,  in  lieu  of  the  episcopal 
palace,  by  the  exchequer,  and  to  which  is  attached 
about  an  acre  of  garden  ground;  the  stipend  of  the 
second  charge  is  £274.  16.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 


B  R  E  S 


BRES 


valued  at  £30  per  annum.  The  church  is  the  nave  of 
the  ancient  cathedral,  and  is  situated  nearly  in  the 
centre  of  the  parish  ;  it  is  in  good  repair,  and  adapted 
for  a  congregation  of  1500  persons.  A  church  contain- 
ing 864  sittings,  was  erected  by  an  act  of  the  General 
Assembly,  in  1836,  for  a  district  of  the  parish  called 
East-Church,  and  the  minister  derived  his  income,  £150, 
from  seat-rents  and  collections.  Since  the  recent  se- 
cession from  the  Church  of  Scotland,  however,  the 
church  has  ceased  to  be  used  in  connexion  with  the 
Establishment  j  and  no  quoad  sacra  parish  now  exists. 
Places  of  worship  have  been  built  at  different  times 
for  members  of  the  Free  Church  and  the  United  Seces- 
sion, Antiburghers,  and  members  of  the  Relief  Church  ; 
and  an  Episcopal  chapel,  erected  about  twenty  years 
since,  has  been  recently  enlarged  and  beautified,  and 
is  a  handsome  edifice,  the  western  gable  of  which  is 
surmounted  by  a  cross,  and  flanked  at  the  angles  with 
minarets.  There  are  parochial  and  burgh  schools, 
together  with  a  grammar  school ;  the  parochial  teacher 
has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  fees,  and  £10  paid  by 
the  magistrates  from  the  burgh  funds,  in  lieu  of  a  house 
and  garden.  The  rector  of  the  grammar  school  is 
appointed  by  the  corporation,  and  is  also  preceptor 
of  the  hospital  of  Maison  Dieu,  of  which  he  enjoys 
the  revenue,  amounting  to  £50  per  annum.  There 
is  a  parochial  library,  containing  about  600  volumes; 
and  circulating  libraries  are  kept  by  the  booksellers  in 
the  town.  The  hospital,  formerly  attached  to  the  cathe- 
dral establishment,  affords  weekly  a  small  allowance  to 
the  poor ;  there  is  also  a  society  of  ladies,  for  the 
relief  of  the  indigent,  and  a  dispensary  was  established 
some  years  since,  with  the  proceeds  of  a  bequest  by 
Mrs.  Speid,  of  Ardovie.  Some  remains  yet  exist  of  the 
ancient  chapel  called  Maison  Dieu  ;  and  a  round  tower 
nearly  adjoining  the  cathedral,  and  supposed  to  be  of 
Pictish  origin,  is  still  entire,  and  an  object  of  much 
interest.  It  is  a  lofty  slender  column  of  very  ancient 
character,  and  in  high  easterly  winds  is  observed  to 
vibrate  in  a  slight  degree.  The  remains  of  the  cathedral 
consist  chiefly  of  the  nave  and  tower  ;  the  western  en- 
trance is  of  beautiful  design,  and  the  interior  is  lighted 
by  a  spacious  window  above  the  doorway,  and  the  roof 
supported  by  a  range  of  clustered  columns  and  pointed 
arches  ;  the  choir  was  destroyed  at  the  Reformation. 
At  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish,  is  a  cemetery, 
which  is  still  called  St.  Magdalen's  chapel,  the  only 
memorial,  perhaps,  of  an  edifice  of  that  name.  Dr. 
John  Gillies,  historiographer  for  Scotland  to  His  Ma- 
jesty ;  and  his  brother,  the  Honourable  Adam  Gillies, 
one  of  the  senators  of  the  College  of  Justice,  were 
natives  of  the  parish,  as  was  also  Maitlaud,  the  labo- 
rious historian  of  London  and  Edinburgh. 

BRESSAY,  BURRA,  and  QUARFF,  a  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Orkney  and  Shetland;  containing  1*98 
inhabitants,  of  whom  904  are  in  the  island  of  Bressay, 
and  870  in  the  late  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Burra  and 
Quarff.  These  three  ancient  parishes,  now  united,  com- 
prehend six  islands  and  a  part  of  the  tract  called  Main- 
land ;  the  district  of  Bressay  is  to  the  east  of  the  main- 
land, and  consists  of  the  islands  of  Bressay  and  Ness, 
separated  from  each  other  by  Ness  Sound,  and  from  the 
mainland  by  Bressay  Sound.  The  island  of  Bressay, 
which  is  nearly  six  miles  long,  and  varies  in  breadth 
from  two  to  three  miles,  exhibits  a  highly-diversified 
Vol.  I.— 153 


surface,  especially  in  the  western  portion,  where  the 
rugged  features  of  the  coast,  the  tracts  of  arable  land 
stretching  from  south  to  north,  and  sloping  to  the  sea, 
interspersed  with  cottages,  with  lofty  hills  rising  in  va- 
rious directions,  contribute  to  form  a  scene  marked,  to 
a  considerable  extent,  by  beauty  and  grandeur.  Among 
the  elevated  ridges  running  in  irregular  directions 
through  the  island,  and  the  spaces  between  which  are 
covered  with  a  mixture  of  pasture  and  peat-moss,  is  a 
dorsal  eminence,  on  the  eastern  side,  called  St.  Andrew's, 
or  Ander  hill,  upwards  of  400  feet  in  height.  At  the 
southern  extremity,  is  a  lofty  elevation  called  the  Ward  ; 
also  Beacon  hill,  rising  724  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  which,  being  covered  with  peat-moss  and  vari- 
ous kinds  of  short  grass  and  heath,  becomes,  on  account 
of  its  sable  hue  and  majestic  height,  a  striking  object  in 
the  scenery.  The  coast  is  everywhere  rocky,  abounding 
with  fissures,  caverns,  and  headlands,  the  last  chiefly  in 
the  southern  portion  of  the  island  ;  and  there  are  twelve 
lochs,  which,  however,  are  of  very  ipconsiderable  dimen- 
sions, only  two  or  three  having  the  extent  of  half  a  mile 
in  length  or  breadth,  but  some  of  them  are  celebrated 
for  their  fine  trout. 

The  parish  contains  several  sounds  or  channels, 
formed  by,  and  taking  their  names  respectively  from, 
the  islands  to  which  they  are  adjacent ;  the  chief  is 
Bressay  Sound,  long  known  as  a  superior  harbour,  which 
expands  into  a  fine  bay  towards  Quarff,  on  the  south, 
where  its  waters  deepen,  and  afford  excellent  anchorage 
for  vessels  in  stress  of  weather.  Many  hundreds  of 
Dutch  boats,  in  time  past,  resorted  hither,  to  fish  for 
herrings;  but  the  sound  has  derived  its  greatest  cele- 
brity from  the  Earl  of  Bothwell,  who,  being  pursued  in 
his  adversity  by  Kirkaldy  of  Grange,  with  great  diffi- 
culty escaped,  by  sailing  out  at  the  northern  entrance, 
in  which  direction  his  enemy,  attempting  to  follow 
him,  was  wrecked  on  a  very  dangerous  rock,  since 
called  the  Unicorn,  after  the  name  of  the  ship.  The 
other  channels  are,  Ness  Sound,  less  than  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  broad,  supposed  to  be  about  twenty  feet  deep,  and 
dangerous  to  pass  with  an  easterly  wind  ;  Cliff  Sound, 
not  quite  half  a  mile  broad,  with  about  nine  or  ten 
fathoms  of  water,  and  of  difficult  navigation  in  stormy 
weather  ;  and  Stream  and  Burra  Sounds,  the  latter  of 
which  is  the  safest  and  most  tranquil  of  the  whole,  and 
peculiarly  adapted  to  small  vessels.  The  quantity  of  land 
under  tillage  is  small,  compared  with  the  waste,  and 
employed  chiefly  in  the  cultivation  of  oats,  bear,  and 
potatoes,  the  two  first  being  sown  in  alternate  years, 
and  potatoes  once  in  four  or  five  years.  The  grounds 
are  manured  with  a  compost  of  sea-weed,  dung,  and 
mossy  earth,  and  with  the  garbage  of  herrings,  the  last 
being  held  in  high  repute  for  enriching  the  soil.  Some 
improvements  in  agriculture  have  been  made  within 
these  few  years,  chiefly  in  rebuilding,  in  a  superior 
manner,  the  farm-cottages  ;  but  various  obstacles,  the 
want  of  leases,  the  state  of  the  roads,  and  especially  the 
poverty  of  the  inhabitants,  and  their  extensive  occupa- 
tion in  fishing,  repress  all  systematic  attempts  to  esta- 
blish agriculture  on  a  good  footing.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £1527.  The  rocks  in  Bressay 
and  Ness  are  the  old  red  sandstone  ;  in  Quarff,  clay- 
slate  and  mica-slate  ;  and  in  the  isles  of  House,  Burra, 
and  Halvera,  of  the  primitive  formation.  At  Bressay, 
flag  and   slate  quarries  are  in  operation,  the  material  of 


BRID 


B  R  I  D 


which  is  shipped  to  different  parts  of  the  country,  and 
sometimes  sent  to  the  south;  and  in  Quarff  and  Burra, 
several  species  of  limestone  of  inferior  quality  are 
found. 

The  lands  appear  once  to  have  been  better  wooded 
than  at  present,  trunks  of  trees,  of  some  bulk,  being 
found  among  the  mosses.  The  only  plantations  recently 
made  are  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mansion-house,  and 
consist  of  willow  and  ash,  the  former  the  most  flourish- 
ing ;  and  near  these,  of  older  growth,  are  aspen,  elm, 
laburnum,  poplar,  and  plane  trees,  which  appear  to  be 
in  a  thriving  condition.  A  large  proportion  of  the  male 
population  is  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  the  principal  of 
which  are  those  of  ling,  cod,  and  herrings ;  though 
various  other  kinds  of  fish,  such  as  tusk,  halibut, 
skate,  whiting,  and  flounders,  are  taken  at  different 
times  ;  and  sillocks,  on  which  the  inhabitants  live  to  a 
considerable  extent,  are  taken  throughout  the  whole 
year.  Oysters,  also,  are  found  at  Burra,  in  abundance. 
The  ling-fishing  employs  about  thirty  boats,  carrying 
generally  six  men  each ;  the  cod-fishery,  beginning 
about  Whitsuntide,  occupies  numerous  sloops  of  be- 
tween fifteen  and  twenty  tons'  burthen,  and  at  the  ter- 
mination of  this  fishing,  that  for  herrings  commences, 
usually  in  the  month  of  August,  in  which  the  same 
boats  are  employed  as  those  engaged  in  the  ling-fishing, 
with  some  of  larger  size.  About  thirty  women  and 
children  are  employed  in  Bressay,  during  the  season,  in 
curing  herrings;  and  the  manufacture  of  herring-nets  has 
recently  excited  much  interest  among  the  inhabitants  : 
nearly  every  female  in  Quarff  above  six  years  of  age,  is 
occupied  in  knitting  woollen-gloves,  and  those  in  Burra 
in  knitting  stockings.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Lerwick  and  synod  of  Shetland,  and  in  the  patronage  of 
the  Earl  of  Zetland  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £158.  6.  8., 
with  a  manse,  rebuilt  in  1819,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£12  per  annum.  The  church,  which  is  conveniently 
situated,  was  erected  in  1815,  and  contains  370  sittings. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  Independents  and  Wes- 
leyans  ;  and  also  a  parochial  school,  the  master  of  which 
has  a  salary  of  £25.  13.,  and  teaches  writing,  arithmetic, 
and  book-keeping. — See  Burra,  Ness,  &c. 

BRIDEKIRK,  Dumfries. — See  Brydekirk. 

BRIDGE  OF  ALLAN.— See  Allan,  Bridge  of. 
And  all  places  having  a  similar  distinguishing  prefix,  will 
he  found  under  the  proper  name. 

BRIDGEND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kilarrow, 
district  of  Islay,  county  of  Argyll,  3  miles  (N.)  from 
Bowmore.  This  village  is  situated  at  the  north-eastern 
extremity  of  Loch  Indal ;  and  there  is  a  good  road  to 
Port-Askaig,  distant,  in  a  north-eastern  direction,  about 
eight  miles.  A  branch  post-office  has  been  established 
under  Bowmore,  and  a  justice-of-peace  court  is  held 
here.  The  grounds  of  Islay  House  are  almost  in  con- 
tact with  the  village. 

BRIDGEND,  a  hamlet  in  the  parish  of  Lentra- 
then,  county  of  Forfar;  containing  31  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  a  short  distance  from  the  parish  church. 

BRIDGEND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Ruthven, 
county  of  Forfar  ;   containing  1/2  inhabitants. 

BRIDGEND,  a  burgh  of  barony,  in  the  parish  of 
Kinnoull,  county  of  Perth;  containing  173*  inha- 
bitants. This  village,  which  forms  a  suburb  to  the  city 
of  Perth,  derives  its  name  from  the  erection  of  a  bridge 
over  the  Tay,  connecting  the  parishes  of  Perth  and  Kin- 
154 


noull,  between  which,  all  communication  since  the  de- 
struction of  the  old  bridge  in  1621,  had  been  by  a  ferry, 
till  the  completion  of  the  present  structure,  in  177L 
Prior  to  this  date,  the  village  consisted  only  of  a  few 
cottages,  inhabited  by  the  boatmen  employed  on  the 
ferry  ;  but,  from  the  greater  facility  of  intercourse  with 
Perth,  it  has  rapidly  increased  in  extent  and  importance, 
and  at  present  contains  nearly  three-fifths  of  the  popu- 
lation of  the  parish.  The  streets  are  regularly  formed, 
and  lighted  with  gas  ;  the  houses  are  substantially  built, 
and  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  on  the  rising 
ground,  are  numerous  elegant,  villas,  surrounded  with 
scenery  richly  diversified.  The  village  was  erected  into 
a  burgh  of  barony,  in  favour  of  the  Earl  of  Kinnoull,  by 
charter,  which  also  conferred  the  privileges  of  a  weekly 
market  and  several  annual  fairs,  now  fallen  into  dis- 
use. 

BRIDGEND,  or  Kendrochad,  a  hamlet,  in  the 
parish  of  Kenmore,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  68 
inhabitants.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  hamlet  is  a  small 
school. 

BRIDGEND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Rosskeen, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty  ;  containing  413  inha- 
bitants. This  place  is  also  called  the  Bridgend  of  All- 
ness,  it  being  considered  as  part  of  the  village  of  Allness, 
of  which  the  other  part  is  in  the  parish  of  that  name, 
the  river  Allness  dividing  it  in  nearly  equal  portions  ;  a 
market,  chiefly  for  cattle,  is  held  here  monthly.  At 
Mossfield,  in  the  vicinity,  is  a  school,  established  in 
1824. 

BRIDGEND,  SOUTH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Muthill,  county  of  Perth;  containing  118  inhabit- 
ants. 

BRIDGEND,  WEST,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Cardross,  county  of  Dumbarton  ;  containing  799  in- 
habitants. It  is  a  suburb  of  the  town  of  Dumbarton ; 
and  the  Relief  Congregation  have  a  place  of  worship 
in  it. 

BRIDGENESS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Carriden, 
county  of  Linlithgow,  1  mile  (E.)  from  Bo'ness,  con- 
taining 89  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  south 
shore  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  its  population  is  engaged 
in  the  works  in  the  vicinity.  There  is  an  excellent  pier 
here,  which,  some  years  since,  was  extended  about  150 
feet  further  into  the  sea,  in  order  to  improve  the  accom- 
modation, by  securing  a  greater  depth  of  water  for  the 
vessels  by  which  the  harbour  is  frequented,  chiefly  for 
the  export  of  coal  and  salt,  and  the  import  of  manure 
and  limestone.  As  many  as  300  coasters,  varying  from 
twenty  to  one  hundred  tons'  burthen,  annually  enter 
from  different  ports  in  Scotland  ;  and  about  ten  foreign 
ships,  of  greater  tonnage,  yearly  take  in  coal  at  this 
place.  Formerly,  chemical-works  were  established  here, 
for  the  manufacture  of  vitriol  and  sulphuric-acid  ;  but 
they  have  been  for  some  time  relinquished. 

BRIDGETOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Red- 
gorton,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  97  inhabitants. 

BRIDGETON,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  con- 
sisting of  part  of  Barony  parish,  in  the  suburbs  of 
Glasgow,  county  of  Lanark  ;  containing  3583  inha- 
bitants. This  place,  which  takes  its  name  from  its  vici- 
nity to  the  bridge  over  the  Clyde  leading  to  Rutherglen, 
is  partly  indebted  for  its  origin  to  Mr.  John  Walkin- 
shaw,  who,  in  1705,  purchased  some  lands  to  the  east- 
ward of  the  city,  which  he  divided  into  building  lots, 


BROR 


B  II  O  U 


for  the  formation  of  a  village,  then  called  Barrowfield. 
In  1724,  however,  he  had  let  only  nineteen  small  por- 
tions, and  the  land  was  subsequently  purchased  by  the 
corporation,  in  conjunction  with  the  Trades'  House,  who, 
in  1/31,  conveyed  it  to  Mr.  John  Orr,  merchant,  of 
Glasgow,  who,  being  more  successful  in  disposing  of 
the  ground,  may  be  regarded  as  the  founder  of  the  pre- 
sent town.  This  now  flourishing  village  contains,  ac- 
cording to  the  last  census,  above  14,000  persons.  It  is 
on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  to  the  south-east  of  Cal- 
ton,  and,  like  that  place,  consists  of  several  spacious  and 
well-formed  streets  ;  a  few  houses  are  built  of  brick,  and 
roofed  with  tiles,  for  the  manufacture  of  which,  clay  of 
excellent  quality  is  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 
The  population  are  chiefly  employed  in  the  cotton  manu- 
facture, and  other  works  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
city  ;  and  there  are  numerous  shops,  for  the  supply  of 
the  inhabitants  with  groceries  and  various  kinds  of 
merchandise.  The  parish  was  formed  by  act  of  the  Ge- 
neral Assembly  :  the  church  is  a  neat  structure,  erected 
by  the  Church  Building  Society  of  Glasgow,  who  are  the 
patrons,  and  contains  1024  sittings.  It  is  now  rented  by 
members  of  the  Free  Church,  and  in  the  village  is  also  a 
place  of  worship  in  connexion  with  the  Relief  Church. 

BROADHAVEN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Wick, 
county  of  Caithness,  1  mile  (E.)  from  Wick  ;  contain- 
ing 1*0  inhabitants.  This  village  is  situated  at  the  head 
of  the  haven  from  which  it  takes  its  name,  and  extends 
along  the  northern  shore  of  the  bay  of  Wick  ;  it  is  in- 
habited chiefly  by  persons  engaged  in  the  fishery.  The 
haven,  which  affords  good  shelter  for  vessels,  is  formed 
by  the  head  of  Wick  on  the  south,  and  the  headland  of 
Papigo  on  the  north,  both  of  which  extend  considerably 
into  the  Moray  Frith. 

BROADSEA,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Fraser- 
burgh, district  of  Deer,  county  of  Aberdeen;  con- 
taining 326  inhabitants.  This  is  a  fishing  village, 
situated  a  short  distance  west  of  the  town  of  Fraser- 
burgh, in  a  small  bay  near  Kinnaird  Head. 

BROCKLEHURST,  OLD,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of 
Mouswald,  county  of  Dumfries  ;  containing  39  inha- 
bitants. 

BRODICK,  a  village,  in  the  Isle  of  Arran,  parish 
of  Kilbride,  county  of  Bute  ;  containing  163  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  seated  in  a  semicircular  bay  of  the  same  name, 
on  the  eastern  coast  of  the  island,  defended  at  its  en- 
trance by  the  islet  of  Lamblash,  or  Holy  Island  ;  and  to 
the  southward  is  a  light-house.  The  castle  of  Brodick  is 
on  an  eminence  above  the  bay,  and  is  a  place  of  much 
antiquity.  One  of  the  parochial  schools  is  situated  in 
the  village. 

BROOMKNOLL,  Lanarkshire. — See  Airdrie. 

BROOMLANDS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  In- 
chinnan,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew; 
containing  79  inhabitants. 

BRORA,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Clyne,  county 
of  Sutherland,  5  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Golspie;  con- 
taining 123  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  eastern 
coast,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Brora  water,  a  fine  stream 
which  rises  in  the  highlands,  and  pursues  a  course  of 
some  miles,  in  a  south-eastern  direction,  to  this  place, 
where  it  falls  into  the  sea.  There  is  a  tolerable  harbour 
for  boats  and  small  vessels,  constructed  by  the  Duke  of 
Sutherland,  who  has  here  considerable  salt,  coal,  and 
brick  works,  with  which  a  railway  is  connected ;  lint- 
155 


spinning  has  also  been  introduced  into  the  village. 
Brora  lake,  a  few  miles  westward,  is  a  beautiful  and  ex- 
tensive piece  of  water,  within  which  is  an  islet  140  feet 
in  length,  and  70  in  breadth,  surrounded  by  a  wall, 
built  so  close  to  the  water's  edge  that  no  boat  can  land, 
except  at  one  spot,  where  there  are  steps.  On  all  sides 
of  the  lake,  are  lofty  hills,  interspersed  with  pleasant 
villages  arid  plantations. — See  Clyne. 

BROTHER  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Delting,  county 
of  Shetland.  It  lies  in  Yell  Sound,  westward  of  the 
island  of  Yell,  and  is  inhabited  by  a  very  few  persons. 

BROUGH-HEAD,  Elgin.— See  Burgh-Head. 

BROUGHTON,  GLENHOLM,  and  KILBUCHO,  a 
parish,  in  the  county  of  Peebles  ;  containing  929  in- 
habitants, of  whom  294  are  in  Glenholm,  361  in  Kil- 
bucho,  and  274  in  Broughton,  including  85  in  the  village 
of  Broughton,  2  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Rachan  Mill. 
This  parish  is  bounded  on  the  east  and  south  "-by  the 
river  Tweed,  and  consists  of  the  whole  of  the  ancient 
parishes  of  Broughton  and  Glenholm,  and  the  greater 
portion  of  that  of  Kilbucho.  It  is  about  nine  miles  and 
a  half  in  length,  and  three  miles  and  a  half  in  average 
breadth,  and  comprises  about  20,000  acres,  of  which 
5000  are  arable,  300  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the 
remainder,  of  which  not  more  than  1000  are  capable  of 
cultivation,  meadow  land  and  hill  pasture.  The  surface 
is  greatly  diversified  with  hill  and  dale,  and  intersected 
by  mountainous  ridges  and  fertile  valleys.  Rachan  Hill, 
in  the  district  of  Glenholm,  is  a  detached  eminence, 
rising  precipitously  from  the  plain,  on  the  side  towards 
the  Tweed,  and  sloping  by  a  gentle  declivity  towards 
the  Holms  water  ;  it  is  covered  with  verdure  to  its  very- 
summit,  and  forms  an  interesting  feature  in  the  land- 
scape. A  chain  of  mountainous  heights,  extending  for 
nearly  three  miles,  from  north  to  south,  intersects  the 
parish,  separating  Broughton  from  the  parishes  of  Stobo 
and  Kirkurd.  Another  extending  for  nearly  five  miles, 
in  a  direction  from  north-east  to  south-west,  separates 
Glenholm  from  Kilbucho  and  the  parish  of  Culter  ;  a 
third  range  stretches  for  nearly  three  miles  parallel  with 
the  Tweed  ;  and  there  are  some  others,  of  which  one 
passes  through  the  district  of  Broughton.  The  highest 
points  of  these  ranges,  which  in  general  are  precipitous, 
are,  Culterfell,  Cardon,  and  Chapelgill,  of  which  the 
first  has  an  elevation  of  2430  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
the  others  are  very  little  inferior  in  height.  Between 
the  ranges  of  hills,  are  several  beautiful  valleys,  of  which 
the  vale  of  Glenholm,  extending  for  nearly  four  miles,  is 
strikingly  picturesque,  and  is  enlivened  by  the  Holms 
water;  the  Biggar  water,  which  forms  a  boundary  be- 
tween the  district  of  Broughton  and  those  of  Glenholm 
and  Kilbucho,  receives  various  rivulets,  among  which 
are  the  Holms  water  and  the  Broughton  and  Kilbucho 
burns,  and  falls  into  the  Tweed  near  Drummelzier.  At 
Rachan  are  two  small  lakes,  studded  with  islands, 
richly  wooded,  and  of  which  one  abounds  with  trout, 
and  the  other  with  perch ;  among  the  hills  are  several 
springs,  of  which  the  water  is  intensely  cold,  and  in  the 
old  glebe  land  of  Broughton,  is  a  well  possessing  some 
medicinal  properties. 

The  soil,  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  valleys,  is  rather 
inclined  to  moss,  and  in  the  lower  parts,  is  a  deep  rich 
loam ;  near  the  confluence  of  the  Biggar  with  the 
Broughton  burn,  the  land  is  extremely  fertile.  The 
chief  crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  peas,  potatoes,  and 

X2 


BROU 


BRYD 


turnips  ;  the  system  of  husbandry  is  in  an  advanced 
state  ;  the  woods  contain  but  little  old  timber,  and  most 
of  the  plantations  are  of  comparatively  modern  growth. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  Broughton  is  £1579;  of 
Glenholm,  £2625  ;  and  Kilbucho,  £3230.  The  chief  sub- 
strata are,  greywacke,  limestone,  and  slate,  which  were 
once  quarried  in  Glenholm  ;  sand  of  a  remarkably  fine 
quality  is  found  in  the  district  of  Broughton,  and  there 
are  numerous  pits  of  good  gravel.  Of  the  various  houses 
in  the  parish,  Rachan,  Mossfennan,  and  Broughton 
Place  are  the  principal ;  the  mansion  of  Broughton  was 
burnt  by  an  accidental  fire  in  17/4,  and  rebuilt  with  the 
old  materials,  on  a  smaller  scale.  The  village  was  once 
a  considerable  market  for  cattle  ;  but  a  fair  only  is  now 
held,  on  the  3rd  of  October,  principally  for  hiring  ser- 
vants, and  for  the  sale  of  various  wares.  The  road  from 
Edinburgh  to  Dumfries  passes  through  the  parish. 
Broughton  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Biggar  and  synod  of 
Lothian  andTweeddale,  and  in  the  patronage  of  William 
Renny,  Esq.;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £231.  1.  10., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £64.  14.  9.  per 
annum.  The  church,  which  is  situated  in  the  district  of 
Kilbucho,  and  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  is  a 
plain  substantial  edifice,  erected  in  1804,  and  adapted 
for  a  congregation  of  500  persons.  A  place  of  worship 
has  been  erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church. 
There  are  three  parochial  schools,  one  in  each  of  the 
three  districts ;  the  master  of  each  has  a  salary  of  £32, 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  for  Broughton 
amount  to  about  £25,  for  Glenholm  to  £30,  and  for 
Kilbucho  to  £31.  Numerous  remains  may  be  traced  of 
circular  camps,  one  of  which,  called  Macbeth's  Castle, 
was  surrounded  with  a  double  intrenchment.  Some 
stone  coffins,  also,  containing  human  skeletons,  have 
been  found  near  the  confluence  of  the  Biggar  and  the 
Tweed,  in  a  tumulus  ;  one  of  the  bodies  was  of  gigantic 
size,  and  the  arms  were  encircled  with  bracelets  of 
gold  or  yellow  metal. 

BROUGHTY-FERRY,  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  partly 
in  the  parish  of  Monifieth,  and  partly  in  the  burgh  of 
Dundee,  county  of  Forfar,  4  miles  (E.)  from  Dundee  ; 
containing  about  2200  inhabitants.  This  place,  a  small 
part  only  of  which  belongs  to  the  parish  of  Dundee,  at 
the  close  of  the  last  century  consisted  merely  of  a  few 
fishermen's  huts  ;  but  the  proprietor  having  begun  to 
feu  it  about  the  year  1790,  a  large  addition  was  quickly 
made  to  its  population,  and  it  has  been  since  regularly 
increasing.  It  is  a  neat,  clean,  and  thriving  fishing  and 
sea-bathing  village,  having  an  interesting  and  picturesque 
appearance  from  the  river;  the  gentle  acclivity  behind, 
studded  with  numerous  pleasing  and  elegant  villas, 
greatly  heightening  the  general  effect,  and  improving 
the  scenery.  Many  persons  from  Dundee  and  other 
parts  resort  hither,  in  the  season,  for  the  benefit  of 
bathing,  and  find  ample  accommodation  of  every  kind, 
a  considerable  proportion  of  the  inhabitants  letting  their 
houses  in  lodgings  for  visiters.  Thirteen  boats  are 
regularly  employed,  and  in  summer  many  more,  in  the 
white-fishing,  upon  which  upwards  of  fifty  families 
depend  for  support ;  and  the  fish  taken,  comprising 
cod,  haddock,  soles,  ling,  whiting,  plaice,  flounders,  and 
many  others,  valued  at  £5000  per  annum,  constitute 
the  principal  supply  of  the  town  of  Dundee.  About 
400  cod  are  also  prepared  weekly,  for  exportation,  at  a 
curing  establishment  here,  and  among  several  other 
156 


branches  of  manufacture  and  trade,  are  two  rope- works, 
a  foundry,  breweries,  &c.  Small  vessels  are  occasionally 
built,  opposite  to  those  parts  where  the  depth  of  water 
offers  the  necessary  facility  for  launching  them  ;  and  the 
circumstance  of  the  railroad  from  Dundee  to  Arbroath 
passing  along  the  brink  of  the  river,  has  originated  the 
idea  of  the  importance  of  constructing  a  regular  harbour 
here,  for  the  improvement  of  the  general  traffic  of  the 
locality.  A  chapel  of  ease  was  built  in  1826,  containing 
755  sittings,  and  the  attached  district  was  formed  into 
a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  1834;  the  minister,  who  is 
elected  by  the  male  communicants,  receives  about  £140 
per  annum,  derived  from  seat-rents  and  collections. 
An  excellent  school  has  been  formed  in  connexion  with 
the  Establishment,  of  which  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£9-  18.  6.,  and  fees  ;  and  there  are  places  of  worship 
belonging  to  the  United  Associate  Synod  and  the  Free 
Church.  Some  remains  exist  of  Broughty  Castle,  for- 
merly a  key  to  the  navigation  of  the  river,  and  much 
connected  with  historical  events. 

BROWNFIELD,  a  quoad  sacra  parish  ;  consisting 
of  part  of  the  parish  of  St.  George,  in  the  city  of 
Glasgow,  county  of  Lanark  ;  and  containing  2525 
inhabitants.  This  place,  which  forms  part  of  the  suburb 
of  Anderston,  is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Clyde, 
and  to  the  west  of  the  Broomielaw  Quay.  The  church 
is  a  neat  structure. 

BROXBURN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Uphall, 
county  of  Linlithgow,  2  miles  (E.)  from  Uphall ;  con- 
taining 725  inhabitants.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
road  from  Glasgow  to  Edinburgh,  and  on  the  banks  of 
the  Union  canal,  near  a  rivulet  of  the  same  name. 
Through  the  exertions  of  the  late  Earl  of  Buchan,  the 
proprietor,  it  has  very  much  increased  in  extent  and 
population,  and  a  fair  for  cattle  is  held  on  the  Friday 
after  the  second  Tuesday  in  September.  The  parochial 
school  is  situated  in  the  village,  and  there  is  a  place  of 
worship  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church. 

BRUNTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Creich, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife  ;  containing  90  inha- 
bitants. This  village,  which  is  pleasantly  situated,  is 
inhabited  chiefly  by  persons  employed  in  agriculture, 
and  in  hand-loom  weaving  for  the  linen  manufacturers 
of  Cupar,  under  the  inspection  of  a  resident  agent  who 
furnishes  the  materials.  Previously  to  the  introduction 
of  machinery,  several  of  the  females  were  employed  in 
spinning  yarn  ;  but,  at  present,  there  is  only  one  spin- 
ning-wheel in  operation. 

BRYDEKIRK,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish  ;  consist- 
ing chiefly  of  part  of  the  parish  of  Annan,  and  partly 
of  portions  of  the  parishes  of  Cummertrees  and  Hod- 
dam,  in  the  county  of  Dumfries  ;  and  containing  881 
inhabitants,  of  whom  about  400  are  in  the  village  of 
Brydekirk,  3  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Annan.  The  parish 
forms  a  section  of  the  vale  of  Annandale,  about  five  or 
six  miles  above  the  entrance  of  the  beautiful  river 
Annan  into  the  Solway  Frith  ;  the  scenery  is  remark- 
ably rich,  varied,  and  extensive,  rising  on  either  side  of 
the  Annan,  of  which  the  banks  are  finely  wooded,  to  a 
considerable  elevation,  and  embracing,  from  different 
positions,  the  whole  sweep  of  the  surrounding  country. 
The  greater  portion  of  the  soil  is  under  cultivation,  in 
the  usual  routine  of  farming;  and  the  remainder,  to  a 
large  extent,  is  covered  with  timber  and  plantations. 
The    village,    which   is    connected    with    the    burgh    of 


B  U  C  H 


BUCH 


Annan  by  a  handsome  stone  bridge  of  three  arches,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Annan, 
and  is  neatly  built,  and  intersected  by  the  road  from 
Annan  to  Lockerbie ;  the  woollen  manufacture  was 
established  in  1S24,  but  the  spacious  building  for  the 
purpose  erected  at  the  east  end  of  the  bridge,  has  been 
recently  converted  into  flour-mills.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  under  the  presbytery  of  Annan  and  synod 
of  Dumfries  :  the  church,  erected  in  1835,  chiefly  at 
the  expense  of  Mrs.  Dirom,  of  Mount  Annan,  and  her 
friends,  is  a  neat  structure,  standing  at  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  village,  and  contains  370  sittings.  The 
minister's  stipend,  £55,  is  derived  from  the  seat-rents, 
augmented  by  donations  from  the  proprietor  of  Mount 
Annan,  and  a  handsome  house  has  been  erected  for  his 
residence  ;  the  patronage  is  vested  in  the  subscribers, 
managers,  and  male  communicants,  being  seat-holders. 
There  is  a  branch  here  of  the  parochial  school,  of  which 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £10,  in  addition  to  the  fees, 
together  amounting  to  about  £40 ;  and  a  parochial 
library  is  under  the  superintendence  of  the  minister. 

BUCHANAN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Stirling, 
1  mile  (N.  W.)  from  Drymen  ;  containing  754  inhabit- 
ants. The  name  of  this  place  was  originally  Inchcai- 
leoch,  which  it  received  from  an  island  in  Loch  Lomond, 
its  western  boundary  ;  but  a  detached  portion  of  the 
parish  of  Luss  having  been  annexed  to  it,  in  1621,  con- 
taining the  Buchanan  estates  and  chapel,  and  the  inha- 
bitants finding  this  religious  edifice  more  convenient 
than  the  church,  regularly  attended  at  the  former,  in 
consequence  of  which  the  parish  assumed  the  name  of 
Buchanan.  This  name  is  of  uncertain  origin  ;  but  the 
family  who  used  it  in  consequence  of  having,  at  a  very 
early  period,  obtained  a  grant  of  the  lands  so  called, 
sprang  from  Anselan,  a  native  of  Ireland,  who  is  sup- 
posed to  have  located  himself  here  in  the  11th  century. 
From  this  ancient  race,  always  more  celebrated  for 
literary  than  political  or  military  fame,  descended  the 
poet  and  historian  George  Buchanan,  born  in  1506; 
Dr.  Buchanan,  author  of  works  on  the  civil  and  natural 
history  of  India  ;  and  Dr.  Claudius  Buchanan,  whose 
writings,  designed  to  awaken  the  British  nation  to  a 
sense  of  the  necessity  of  extending  education  and  reli- 
gious instruction  in  India,  are  well  known.  The  parish 
is  situated  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  county,  bor- 
dering on  Dumbartonshire,  and  is  bounded  on  the  south 
by  the  river  Endriek  ;  it  is  about  twenty-four  miles  in 
length,  and  five  in  breadth,  and  comprises  76,800  acres, 
of  which  1500  are  arable,  69,750  natural  pasture  and 
waste,  4250  woods  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder 
pleasure-grounds,  &c.  It  contains  a  portion  of  lowland, 
several  islands  in  Loch  Lomond,  and  a  mountainous 
ridge  belonging  to  the  highlands,  stretching  along  the 
eastern  bank  of  the  loch,  and  terminating  the  Grampian 
hills  on  the  west.  This  last  is  altogether  a  dreary  barren 
tract,  consisting  chiefly  of  sheep-pasturage,  used  for- 
merly, as  is  supposed,  for  the  purpose  of  hunting,  and 
now  abounding  in  grouse,  black  game,  and  other  fowl. 
The  largest  island  is  Inchmurrin,  which  is  two  miles  in 
length,  and  about  half  as  broad,  and  contains  a  consi- 
derable number  of  deer,  the  property  of  the  Duke  of 
Montrose;  at  the  western  limit,  on  a  hill,  are  the  ruins 
of  a  castle  built  by  the  ancient  earls  of  Lennox,  and 
near  the  same  place  is  a  lodge  of  modern  date  erected 
by  the  same  family. 
157 


The  loch,  the  rich  and  magnificent  scenery  of  which 
is  perhaps  unrivalled,  and  which  has  been  so  often  de- 
scribed, is  twenty-four  miles  in  length,  and  about  seven 
at  its  greatest  breadth,  and  is  twenty-two  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea  ;  it  contains  salmon,  pike,  eels,  &c, 
and  a  fish  called  powans,  somewhat  similar  to  a  herring. 
On  the  east,  it  is  joined  by  the  river  Endriek,  and  the 
Leven  quits  it  on  the  south,  and,  running  into  the  Clyde, 
affords  to  boats  the  means  of  communication  with 
Glasgow,  Greenock,  and  other  places  ;  a  steam-boat,  in 
the  summer  season,  plies  upon  this  beautiful  expanse  of 
water  chiefly  for  the  accommodation  of  visiters.  With- 
in the  parish  is  the  lofty  mountain  of  Ben  Lomond,  the 
highest  point  of  the  Grampians,  rising  3000  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  commanding  from  its  summit,  which  is  of 
conical  form,  a  prospect,  on  the  north,  of  an  intermina- 
ble range  of  mountains  rising  in  succession,  one  above 
another,  and,  on  the  south,  of  all  the  rich  and  varied 
scenery  in  the  tract  from  the  Western  Isles  to  the 
Frith  of  Forth.  It  is  one  of  the  most  striking  and  com- 
manding objects  in  the  country,  and  never  fails  to  ex- 
cite the  admiration  of  every  beholder.  The  soil,  on  the 
bank  of  the  Endriek,  is  for  the  most  part  alluvial ;  and 
the  land,  towards  the  mountains,  comprises  clay,  gravel, 
and  moss,  the  last  supplying  abundance  of  peat.  The 
chief  agricultural  produce  is  barley  and  oats,  the  latter 
of  which  are  raised  in  by  far  the  larger  quantity  ;  pota- 
toes and  turnips  are  also  grown,  but  the  principal  wealth 
of  the  parish  arises  from  its  sheep  and  black-cattle, 
grazed  on  the  mountainous  tracts  ;  the  sheep  are  of  the 
black-faced  breed,  and  of  small  size.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £6400.  The  rocks  mostly 
consist  of  various  kinds  of  slate,  but  the  quarries  for- 
merly wrought  have  been  discontinued ;  the  natural 
wood  contains  about  3000  acres  ;  the  plantations,  chiefly 
oak  and  larch,  were  for  the  most  part  formed  by  the 
late  Duke  of  Montrose.  Buchanan  House,  the  summer 
residence  of  the  duke,  is  situated  in  the  lower  district, 
and  surrounded  by  extensive  and  well  laid-out  grounds  ; 
the  body  of  the  edifice  is  ancient,  but  the  wings  are 
comparatively  of  modern  date.  At  Balmaha  is  a  manu- 
factory, for  the  preparation  of  pyrol igneous  acid,  where 
700  tons  of  small  wood  are  annually  used,  and  the  acid 
and  dye-stuffs  extracted  from  it  are  sold  to  the  pro- 
prietors of  print-works  in  the  vicinity  of  Glasgow.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dumbarton  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Duke  of 
Montrose  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £156.  12.  8.,  of 
which  above  a  third  is  received  from  the  exchequer, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £10  per  annum. 
The  church,  situated  in  the  lower  portion  of  the  parish, 
is  a  neat  edifice,  built  about  1764,  and  contains  300 
sittings  :  a  small  part  of  the  ruins  of  the  old  church 
remains,  in  the  island  of  Inchcaileoch.  The  master 
of  the  parochial  school  receives  a  salary  of  £30,  with 
fees  ;  and  at  Salochy,  in  the  higher  district,  is  a  school, 
the  master  of  which  has  £15  per  annum,  paid  by  the 
Edinburgh  Society,  and  a  house,  with  a  piece  of  grass- 
land, given  by  the  duke.  A  library  was  formed  some 
years  since. 

BUCHANHAVEN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Peter- 
head, district  of  Buchan,  county  of  Aberdeen,  1  mile 
(N.)  from  Peterhead.  This  village  is  situated  on  the 
east  coast,  to  the  north  of  the  haven  of  Peterhead,  and 
near  the  mouth  of  the  river  Ugie,  which  here  flows  into 


BUCK 


B  UI  T 


the  German  Sea.  The  inhabitants  are  engaged  in  the 
white  and  herring  fisheries,  both  of  which  are  success- 
fully carried  on,  at  no  great  distance  off  the  coast,  and 
five  boats  are  employed  in  each,  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  which  a  small  harbour  has  been  recently  con- 
structed. 

BUCHANTY,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Fowlis 
Wester,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  48  inhabit- 
ants. 

BUCHANY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kilmadock, 
county  of  Perth,  2  miles  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Doune  ; 
containing  1 13  inhabitants.  This  village,  which  is  on  the 
road  from  Doune  to  Callander,  and  near  the  picturesque 
burn  of  A.nnat,  is  inhabited  by  persons  engaged  in  agri- 
cultural pursuits,  or  employed  in  the  manufactories  in 
the  vicinity.  The  mansion  of  Cambus  Wallace  is  beau- 
tifully situated  on  an  eminence  immediately  above  the 
village,  commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  river 
Teith,  the  town  and  castle  of  Doune,  the  pleasure- 
grounds  of  Blair-Drummond,  and  Stirling  Castle.  On 
the  acclivity  of  the  hill,  are  vestiges  of  a  camp  said  to 
have  been  the  resort  of  Sir  William  Wallace,  from  which 
circumstance  the  mansion  derived  its  name  ;  the  house 
is  surrounded  with  a  well- wooded  park,  embracing  great 
variety  of  scenery. 

BUCKHAVEN,  an  extensive  village  and  fishing 
station,  in  the  parish  of  Wemyss,  district  of  Kirkcaldy, 
county  of  Fife,  4  miles  (E.)  from  Kirkcaldy;  contain- 
ing 1526  inhabitants.  This  village,  which  is  situated  on 
the  Frith  of  Forth,  consists  of  an  irregular  range  of 
houses,  extending  along  the  shore,  and  chiefly  inhabited 
by  persons  employed  in  the  fisheries,  of  which  it  is  the 
principal  station  on  this  part  of  the  coast  of  Fife.  A 
library  has  been  founded,  which  is  well  supported  by 
subscription,  and  contains  a  good  collection  of  volumes  ; 
and  a  savings'  bank  has  been  opened,  with  every  pros- 
pect  of  success.  The  fishery  here  has  been  long  esta- 
blished, and  is  gradually  increasing  ;  it  affords  employ- 
ment to  nearly  200  persons,  and  about  150  boats  of 
various  tonnage  are  regularly  engaged  during  the  season, 
which  generally  commences  about  the  end  of  June,  when 
they  sail  to  the  herring-stations  of  Fraserburgh,  Wick, 
and  Helmsdale,  returning  to  this  place  with  their  car- 
goes about  the  beginning  of  September.  The  value  of 
the  boats,  which  all  belong  to  Buckhaven,  is  more 
than  £8000,  and,  including  the  nets,  nearly  £20,000,  in 
the  aggregate.  The  harbour,  which  is  safe  and  com- 
modious, has  been  recently  improved  by  the  erection  of 
a  new  pier,  at  an  expense  of  more  than  £4000,  of  which 
the  Board  of  Fisheries  contributed  £3000  ;  and  from 
its  very  advantageous  situation,  which  renders  it  easy  of 
access,  it  is  well  adapted  to  afford  shelter  to  vessels  of 
considerable  burthen,  in  stress  of  weather.  A  number 
of  the  inhabitants  are  employed  in  the  weaving  of  linen, 
and  an  extensive  factory  has  been  established. 

BUCKHOLMSIDE,  a  village,  in  the  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Ladhope,  parish  of  Melrose,  county  of 
Roxburgh  ;  containing  396  inhabitants.  This  place  is 
situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  Gala,  and,  though 
within  the  parish  of  Melrose,  is  more  properly  an  appen- 
dage of  Galashiels,  with  which  town  it  is  connected  by 
a  stone  bridge,  and  in  the  manufactures  of  which  the 
greater  part  of  the  population  is  employed.  There  is  a 
school  in  the  village,  for  which  a  comfortable  house  has 
been  built  by  the  heritors. 
158 


BUCKIE,  a  post-village  and  lately  a  quoad  sacra 
parish,  in  the  parish  of  Rathven,  county  of  Banff, 
4  miles  (E.)  from  Speymouth  ;  containing  2420  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  2165  are  in  the  village.  This  place  is 
at  the  mouth  of  the  burn  of  Buckie,  where  it  empties 
itself  into  the  Moray  Frith  ;  the  portion  called  the  Sea- 
town  has  been  a  fishing- station  for  nearly  200  years, 
but  the  New-town  portion,  though  also  a  fishing-station, 
is  of  much  more  recent  origin.  There  is  a  small  har- 
bour, used  principally  by  fishermen  ;  but,  in  calm  wea- 
ther, coal  and  salt  are  occasionally  landed.  The  white- 
fishing  is  prosecuted  by  thirty-two  boats  and  above  300 
men  ;  seven  houses  have  been  established  for  curing 
haddock;  and  in  1844  not  less  than  154  boats  went 
from  this  shore  to  the  herring-fishery.  A  chapel  accom- 
modating 800  persons,  was  built  in  Easter  Buckie,  in 
the  year  1835,  at  a  cost  of  £800,  raised  chiefly  by  sub- 
scription ;  a  clergyman  was  ordained  in  1837,  who  had 
a  stipend  of  £80  per  annum,  and  a  quoad  sacra  district 
attached,  comprehending  the  whole  of  the  village,  and 
a  small  part  of  the  parish  southward.  There  are  also 
a  Roman  Catholic,  and  an  episcopal  chapel. 

BUCKLERHEAD,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Mur- 
roes,  county  of  Forfar  ;   containing  48  inhabitants. 

BUCKLYVIE,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish ;  consist- 
ing of  part  of  the  parish  of  Drymen,  county  of  Stir- 
ling, and  part  of  that  of  Kippen,  in  the  counties  of 
Perth  and  Stirling  ;  and  containing  &63  inhabitants, 
of  whom  381  are  in  the  village,  5  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from 
Kippen.  It  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Kippen  to 
Drymen,  and  is  a  burgh  of  barony,  and  entitled  to  hold 
five  fairs.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish  were 
under  the  presbytery  of  Dunblane  and  synod  of  Perth 
and  Stirling:  the  church  was  built  in  1835,  by  sub- 
scription, at  a  cost  of  £600,  and  contains  352  sittings. 
The  stipend  of  the  minister  was  £70,  with  a  small  allow- 
ance for  communion  elements,  derived  from  seat-rents 
and  collections.  There  are  now  open  only  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church  and  a  United 
Secession  congregation. 

BUITTLE,  a  parish,  in  the  stewartry  of  Kirkcud- 
bright, 4  miles  (S.  E.  by  S.)  from  Castle-Douglas  ;  con- 
taining, with  the  village  and  port  of  Palnackie,  1059 
inhabitants.  This  place  is  of  great  antiquity,  and  there 
are  still  some  remains  of  its  castle,  supposed  to  have  been 
the  principal  seat  of  the  ancient  lords  of  Galloway.  The 
parish,  of  which  the  name  is  of  very  uncertain  derivation, 
is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  river  Urr,  and  on  the 
south  by  the  bay  of  Orchardton,  in  Solway  Frith  ;  it  is 
about  eight  miles  in  length,  and  nearly  three  in  average 
breadth.  The  surface  is  diversified  by  hill  and  dale  ; 
in  the  middle  and  lower  districts  it  is  broken  with 
numerous  rocky  knolls,  covered  with  furze  and  broom, 
but  in  the  upland  districts  the  ground  is  more  uni- 
formly level,  and  better  adapted  for  the  plough.  The 
soil  is  various,  and,  on  the  arable  lands,  generally  fer- 
tile ;  the  chief  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes, 
and  turnips.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  improved  ; 
the  lands  have  been  extensively  drained,  and  large 
tracts  of  moss  have  been  brought  into  profitable  cultiva- 
tion. Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  cattle, 
which  are  all  of  the  Galloway  breed,  except  on  two  or 
three  of  the  dairy-farms,  where  those  of  the  Ayrshire 
breed  are  preferred ;  the  cattle  are  usually  sent  to  the 
English  markets  when  three  years  old.     Considerable 


BUNK 


BUNK 


numbers  of  sheep  are  reared,  and  fed  upon  turnips,  and 
mostly  sent  to  Liverpool.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £7757. 

The  plantations,  which  have  been  greatly  extended 
within  the  last  few  years,  now  comprise  about  960  acres. 
They  consist  chiefly  of  oak,  ash,  larch,  and  Scotch 
fir ;  and  on  some  of  the  lands  planted  at  an  earlier 
date,  are  remarkably  fine  specimens  of  luxuriant  growth  ; 
though  many  of  the  larches,  after  flourishing  vigorously 
for  a  few  years,  degenerate.  The  substratum  is  chiefly 
granite,  of  very  excellent  quality,  of  which  an  exten- 
sive quarry  was  opened  some  time  since,  at  Craignair 
Hill,  and  afforded  employment  to  about  200  men ; 
blocks  weighing  from  seven  to  eigbt  tons  were,  for  some 
years,  shipped  for  Liverpool,  but  the  quarry,  at  present, 
is  only  wrought  to  a  very  limited  extent,  for  home  use. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcudbright  and  synod  of  Gallo- 
way ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £231.  6.  2.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum ;  patron, 
the  Crown.  The  church,  situated  in  the  centre  of  the 
parish,  and  erected  in  1819,  at  an  expense  of  £1000,  is 
a  handsome  structure  in  the  early  English  stj'le,  con- 
taining 400  sittings,  and,  from  the  height  of  the  walls, 
well  adapted  for  the  erection  of  galleries,  if  additional 
seat  room  should  be  required.  In  the  churchyard,  are 
the  walls  of  the  ancient  church,  covered  with  ivy,  and 
forming  a  beautiful  ruin.  There  are  two  parochial 
schools,  the  masters  of  which,  respectively,  have  salaries 
of  £28  and  £23,  with  dwelling-houses,  and  the  fees 
average  about  £25.  On  a  farm  called  Castlegower,  on 
the  north-west  border  of  the  parish,  are  the  remains  of 
a  vitrified  fort.  There  are  two  wells,  formerly  held  in 
high  repute,  and  one  of  which  was  celebrated  for  the 
cure  of  diseases  peculiar  to  cattle  ;  but  they  are  now 
totally  disregarded. 

BULLERS-BUCHAN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Cruden,  district  of  Ellon,  county  of  Aberdeen  ; 
containing  91  inhabitants.  This  is  a  small  fishing  vil- 
lage, seated  on  the  eastern  coast,  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  stupendous  rocks  of  the  same  name,  where  is  a 
circular  basin  about  150  feet  deep,  into  which  a  boat 
can  sail,  under  a  long  vaulted  arch.  The  view  from 
the  sea  is  peculiarly  striking  ;  two  hideous  cliffs  present 
themselves,  and  the  vault  in  general,  where  most  con- 
fined, is  thirty  or  forty  feet  in  height,  and  the  tide 
rushes  in  tumultuously,  and  pi'oduces  a  boiling  motion 
round  the  sides  of  the  pit.  "  No  man,"  observes  Dr. 
Johnson,  "  can  see  the  Buller  with  indifference,  who  has 
either  sense  of  danger  or  delight  in  rarity  :  if  I  had  any 
malice  against  a  walking  spirit,  instead  of  laying  him  in 
the  Red  Sea,  I  would  condemn  him  to  reside  in  the 
Buller  of  Buchan."  Above  the  surface  of  the  water,  are 
several  caverns  of  unknown  extent. 

BUNDALOCK.— See  Dornie. 

BUNKLE  and  PRESTON,  a  parish,  in  the  county 
of  Berwick,  5  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Dunse ;  contain- 
ing 648  inhabitants.  The  name  of  this  place  is  derived 
from  the  Celtic  word  bon,  signifying  the  foot  or  base, 
and  kill,  a  cell  or  chapel  ;  the  word  Preston,  if  of  Saxon 
origin,  would  signify  Priest-town,  or  the  town  of  the 
priests,  but  some  derive  it  from  the  Gaelic  term  Preas, 
a  thicket,  and  tun,  a  town  or  farm.  The  manor  was 
formerly  possessed  by  Sir  Alexander  de  Bunkle  or 
Bonkle,  by  whom  it  was  transferred,  in  1288,  to  Sir 
159 


John  Stewart,  on  his  marriage  with  the  only  child  of  Sir 
Alexander.  The  property  passed  from  Sir  John  Stewart, 
by  an  heiress,  to  a  different  branch  of  the  Stewarts,  one 
of  whom  was  created  Earl  of  Angus  and  Lord  de  Bon- 
kle, and  a  grand-daughter  of  this  earl,  by  her  marriage 
with  William,  Earl  of  Douglas,  carried  the  property  to 
the  family  of  Douglas.  The  ancient  castle  of  Bunkle,  of 
which  a  ruin  only  now  remains,  was  the  residence  of  the 
Stewarts.  The  parish  contains  9300  acres  ;  the  surface, 
in  the  southern  division,  is  tolerably  level,  sloping  gently 
towards  the  south-east ;  the  northern  part  is  traversed 
by  the  Lammermoor  hills,  the  southern  ridge  of  which, 
called  Bunkle  Edge,  is  700  feet  above  the  sea,  but  not 
more  than  half  that  altitude  above  its  own  base,  showing 
the  site  of  the  parish  to  be  of  considerable  elevation. 
The  river  Whiteadder  runs  along  the  southern  and 
western  boundary  of  the  parish,  and,  by  its  width,  its 
beautiful  meanderings,  and  picturesque  valleys,  forms 
an  interesting  object  ;  it  abounds  with  salmon  and  trout. 
and  is  frequently  visited  by  the  lovers  of  angling. 

The  soil,  on  the  hills,  is  thin  and  poor,  but,  in  the 
lower  parts,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Whiteadder, 
a  rich  fertile  loam.  The  cultivated  land  comprehends 
72S0  acres,  one-half  of  which  is  usually  in  tillage,  and 
the  other  half  in  pasture,  and  of  the  former,  about  two- 
thirds  produce  white  crops,  and  the  rest  potatoes  and 
turnips.  Little  wheat  is  raised,  and  only  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  hay  for  domestic  use  ;  about  1600  acres  are 
moorland  or  heath,  and  about  420  planted,  chiefly  with 
Scotch  fir,  of  recent  growth.  The  rotation  system  of 
husbandry  here  adopted,  consists  of  two  or  three  years 
of  pasture,  followed  by  three  years  of  tillage,  but  the 
farmers  give  their  chief  attention  to  the  rearing  of  sheep, 
there  being,  on  some  farms,  no  less  than  1500  or  1600, 
principally  of  the  Leicester  breed.  Considerable  improve- 
ments have  been  made,  within  the  last  half  century,  and 
nearly  all  the  waste  land  capable  of  cultivation  has  been 
reclaimed.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£SS33.  There  are  three  distinct  classes  of  rocks,  the 
transition  series,  the  old  red  sandstone,  and  the  new  red 
sandstone  :  on  the  Hoardwell  estate,  close  by  the  river, 
is  a  copper-mine,  the  property  of  Lord  Douglas,  worked 
about  sixty  years  since  by  an  English  company,  but 
abandoned  as  unprofitable  in  a  few  years  afterwards  ;  in 
1825,  it  was  again  wrought,  and  again  relinquished  on 
the  same  account.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject 
to  the  presbytery  of  Dunse  and  synod  of  Merse  and 
Teviotdale;  patron,  Lord  Douglas;  the  stipend  of  the 
minister  is  about  £250,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of 
the  annual  value  of  £46.  When  the  ancient  parishes  of 
Bunkle  and  Preston  were  united,  about  the  year  1714, 
public  worship  was  performed  in  each  alternately,  till, 
at  length,  both  churches  needing  repair,  that  of  Bunkle 
was  chosen,  as  most  suitable  for  the  joint  population ; 
it  is  a  neat  edifice,  rebuilt  in  1820,  on  the  old  site,  and 
capable  of  accommodating  400  persons.  There  is  a 
parochial  school,  where  the  usual  branches  of  education 
are  taught,  the  master  receiving  the  maximum  salary, 
with  £26  fees,  a  house,  and  garden.  Dr.  James  Hutton, 
born  at  Edinburgh  in  1726,  and  author  of  a  Theory  of 
the  Earth,  resided  in  the  parish,  and  greatly  promoted 
agricultural  improvements  in  this  part  of  the  country  ; 
and  Dr.  John  Browne,  the  celebrated  medical  theorist, 
and  author  of  the  system  called  from  him  the  Brunonian, 
was  born  here  in  1735. 


BURN 


BURN 


BURGH-HEAD,  a  village  and  district,  in  the  parish  of 
Duffus,  county  of  Elgin,  9  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Elgin; 
containing  829  inhabitants.  This  place  is  equidistant 
from  Elgin  and  Forres,  and  is  seated  on  the  north  of  a 
fine  bay  of  the  same  name,  said  to  be  one  of  the  best 
roadsteads  on  the  east  coast  north  of  Leith.  The  har- 
bour, which  is  commodious,  was  formed  about  1811, 
and  as  many  as  400  vessels  now  enter  it  in  the  course 
of  the  year ;  twelve  vessels,  of  the  aggregate  burthen  of 
738  tons,  belong  to  the  port,  and  there  is,  by  these 
traders,  and  by  steam-ships,  a  regular  communication 
with  London,  Liverpool,  Leith,  and  Aberdeen.  The 
greatest  length  of  the  district  is  five  miles,  and  its 
greatest  breadth,  three  ;  the  village  is  very  thriving, 
and  has  several  good  houses,  an  excellent  inn,  a  public 
reading-room,  and  convenient  baths  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  summer  visiters,  who  frequent  it  in  great  num- 
bers. A  chapel  of  ease  was  built  in  1832,  and  in  1834 
was  slightly  altered,  to  increase  the  number  of  sittings, 
which  are  now  414  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £70,  paid 
partly  by  seat-rents  and  partly  by  two  societies,  with  a 
house  rent-free.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church,  and 
the  United  Secession,  have  each  a  place  of  worship,  and 
a  school  is  supported  by  the  General  Assembly.  On 
the  promontory  of  Burgh-Head,  are  considerable  re- 
mains of  a  regular  Roman  or  Danish  insulated  fortifica- 
tion; the  works  were  divided  into  two  parts,  a  higher 
and  a  lower,  and  presented  four  strong  ramparts,  built 
with  oaken  logs,  directed  towards  the  small  isthmus 
upon  which  the  village  now  stands.  A  deep  well,  of 
extreme  regularity  in  its  construction,  and  much  too 
carefully  formed  to  allow  of  its  being  supposed  to  be 
Danish,  was  lately  discovered  on  the  spot,  and  adds 
another  link  to  the  chain  of  evidence  adduced  by  General 
Roy,  in  his  learned  work  on  Roman  antiquities,  to  show 
that  Burgh-Head  was  a  Roman  station  of  very  consi- 
derable importance. 

BURNBANKS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Nigg, 
county  of  Kincardine  ;  containing  60  inhabitants.  It 
is  a  small  village,  lying  contiguous  to  two  others,  on  the 
eastern  coast,  and  is  occupied  by  fishermen,  who  have 
two  boats  engaged  in  the  white-fishery,  and  three  boats 
which  proceed  yearly  to  the  herring-fishery  on  the  north 
coast. 

BURNBRIDGE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Muir- 
avonside,  county  of  Stirling  ;  containing  67  inhabit- 
ants. It  lies  in  the  east  part  of  the  parish,  where  the 
river  Avon  separates  the  county  of  Stirling  from  Lin- 
lithgowshire. 

BURNESS,  county  of  Orkney. — See  Cross. 

BURNHAVEN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Peter- 
head, district  of  Buchan,  county  of  Aberdeen,  2 
miles  (S.)  from  Peterhead.  This  village  is  situated  near 
the  mouth  of  the  burn  of  Invernettie,  from  which  it 
has  its  name,  and  consists  of  about  thirty  houses, 
erected  by  George  Mudie,  Esq.,  and  inhabited  by  fisher- 
men, who  employ  seven  boats  in  the  herring-fishery. 
The  houses  are  on  the  acclivity  of  the  sea-shore,  nearly 
level  with  the  high-water  mark ;  and  a  small  but  con- 
venient harbour  for  the  fishing-boats,  has  been  con- 
structed by  Mr.  Mudie,  at  an  expense  of  £300. 

BURNS,   a  hamlet,  in  that  part  of  the  parish  of 
Markinch   which  formed  the  quoad  sacra  parish    of 
Milton  of  Balgonie,  county  of  Fife  ;   containing  28 
inhabitants. 
160 


BURNTISLAND,  a  pa- 
rish, burgh,  and  seaport 
town,  in  the  district  of  Kirk- 
caldy, county  of  Fife,  4| 
miles  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from 
Kirkcaldy,  and  9  (N.  by  E.) 
from  Edinburgh ;  contain- 
ing, with  the  village  of  Kirk- 
ton,  2210  inhabitants,  of 
whom  1572  are  in  the  burgh. 
This  place,  once  called  Ber- 
tyland,  is  said,  but  erro- 
Burgh  Seal.  ne0usly,  to  have  derived  its 

present  appellation  from  a  small  island  in  the  har- 
bour, originally  inhabited  by  a  colony  of  fishermen, 
whose  dwellings  were  destroyed  by  fire.  The  harbour 
appears  to  have  been  selected  as  a  landing-place  for  his 
forces,  by  the  Roman  general  Agricola,  who,  with  his 
fleet,  explored  this  part  of  the  coast  of  Britain  ;  and  on 
the  summit  of  an  eminence  in  the  parish,  called  Dunearn 
Hill,  are  the  ruins  of  a  fortress  in  which  his  army  was 
stationed.  Few  events  of  historical  importance  are 
recorded  :  the  town  belonged  to  the  abbey  of  Dunferm- 
line, previously  to  the  middle  of  the  16th  century,  when 
James  V.  exchanged  it  for  other  lands,  and  erected  it 
into  a  royal  burgh,  soon  after  which  it  became  a  place 
of  considerable  trade,  and  its  harbour  was  the  chief  port 
of  an  extensive  line  of  coast  including  the  ports  of  King- 
horn,  Kirkcaldy,  Dysart,  Wemyss,  Leven,  Elie,  St. 
Monan's,  Pittenweem,  Anstruther,  Crail,  St.  Andrew's, 
and  South  Queensferry.  In  1601,  a  meeting  of  the 
General  Assembly  of  the  Kirk  of  Scotland  was  held  in 
the  town,  at  which  James  VI.  was  present,  and  recom- 
mended a  revision  of  the  common  translation  of  the 
Sacred  Scriptures,  and  of  the  version  of  the  Psalms  of 
David.  During  the  parliamentary  war  in  the  reign 
of  Charles  I.,  the  town  was  assaulted  by  the  forces  of 
Cromwell,  to  whom  the  inhabitants  surrendered  it,  on 
condition  of  his  repairing  the  streets,  and  improving 
the  harbour,  which  remained  for  a  considerable  time  in 
the  state  in  which  he  placed  them  in  fulfilment  of  the 
contract.  During  the  disturbances  in  1715.  the  town 
was  taken  possession  of  by  the  Earl  of  Mar's  forces, 
who,  by  commanding  the  harbour,  insured  the  arrival 
of  stores  and  auxiliaries  from  abroad. 

The  town,  which  is  situated  on  the  shore  of  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  is  neatly  built,  and  amply  supplied  with 
water,  which  was  first  introduced  hy  the  magistrates 
and  council,  at  an  expense  of  £1000,  defrayed  from  the 
funds  of  the  burgh ;  a  subscription  library,  containing 
about  600  volumes,  has  been  established,  and  there  is  a 
regular  daily  post.  A  fair  is  held  on  the  10th  of  July  ; 
and  from  the  favourable  situation  of  the  place,  and  the 
facilities  of  bathing  this  part  of  the  coast  affords,  the 
town  is  much  frequented  during  the  summer  months. 
The  port  formerly  carried  on  an  extensive  trade,  for 
which  it  was  chiefly  indebted  to  the  convenience  of  its 
harbour,  which,  for  its  great  security  and  facility  of  ac- 
cess, obtained  the  appellation  of  Portus  Gratia ;  and  in 
many  old  documents,  it  is  mentioned  by  the  designation 
of  Partus  Salutis.  The  trade,  which  consisted  mainly  in 
the  exportation  of  coal  and  salt,  and  the  importation  of 
wines  from  France,  and  timber  from  Norway,  declined 
greatly  after  the  union,  and  was  almost  discontinued 
for  a  considerable  time ;   but  it  afterwards  revived,  and 


BURN 


B  U  R  N 


at  present  consists  principally  in  the  curing  of  herrings, 
which  are  taken  in  the  fishery  established  here,  and  ex- 
ported to  the  neighbouring  towns.  The  number  of 
herrings  annually  cured  and  exported  amounts,  on  an 
average,  to  about  18,000  barrels;  there  are  eight  esta- 
blishments for  curing,  which  -together  employ  from 
seventy  to  eighty  boats,  having  about  400  men.  The 
season  commences  in  July,  when  these  boats  set  sail  for 
Wick,  Fraserburgh,  and  Rosehearty,  where  they  remain 
for  nearly  two  months  ;  and  between  this  place  and  the 
several  fishing- stations,  about  ten  sloops  are  constantly 
engaged  in  taking  out  cargoes  of  barrels  and  salt,  and 
in  bringing  home  the  fish  that  have  been  caught  at  each 
place,  to  be  cured  for  exportation.  The  whale-fishery 
was  established  here,  but  only  -for  a  few  years,  by  a 
company  who  annually  sent  out  two  vessels,  of  the  ag- 
gregate burthen  of  700  tons,  and  each  a  crew  of  fifty 
men.  During  the  period  from  1S30  to  1S35,  the  quantity 
of  oil  procured  was  1200  tons,  and  more  than  fifty  tons 
of  whalebone,  the  preparation  of  which  afforded  employ- 
ment to  thirty  persons,  of  whom  nearly  one-half  were 
oil-coopers,  and  the  remainder  women  who  were  occu- 
pied in  cleansing  the  bone.  The  building  and  repairing 
of  ships  were  formerly  carried  on  extensively,  and  at 
present  engage  more  than  100  persons  ;  but  the  largest 
vessel  built  has  not  exceeded  450  tons'  burthen.  A 
distillery  at  Grange,  in  the  parish,  consumes  annually 
about  11,000  quarters  of  malt,  in  the  production  of 
nearly  190,000  gallons  of  whisky;  and  the  amount  of 
duty  payable  exceeds  £36,000.  In  connexion  with  this 
establishment,  the  buildings  of  which  are  situated  half 
a  mile  from  the  town,  about  700  head  of  cattle  are 
annually  fed,  producing  to  the  proprietors  a  considerable 
income  ;  and  the  whole  concern  affords  employment  to 
about  100  men  and  fifty  horses. 

The  harbour  is  capacious  and  easy  of  access,  and, 
from  its  depth,  affords  shelter  to  vessels  of  great  burthen ; 
the  pier,  on  which  a  light-house  has  been  erected,  is 
commodious,  and  its  extension,  with  the  improvement 
of  the  ferry,  would  render  this  by  far  the  most  secure 
harbour  in  the  Frith.  A  dry-dock  has  been  constructed, 
in  connexion  with  the  harbour  ;  it  is  about  200  feet  in 
length,  and  seventeen  feet  in  depth,  at  high  water,  and 
is  capable  of  i-eceiving  vessels  of  1000  tons.  The  road- 
stead affords  good  anchorage,  and  is  much  frequented 
in  stormy  weather  ;  the  bottom  is  deep,  even  near  the 
shore,  and  the  high  grounds  on  the  north,  and  a  sand- 
bank extending  considerably  into  the  sea  on  the  east, 
provide  shelter  for  vessels  in  distress.  A  regular  com- 
munication with  Newhaven,  about  five  miles  distant,  is 
maintained  by  steam-boats  and  sailing  vessels,  the  latter 
principally  for  carrying  goods  ;  and  there  are  about  eight 
vessels  belonging  to  the  port,  the  aggregate  burthen  of 
which  is  900  tons.  At  Starly  burn  is  a  small  har- 
bour, from  which  is  shipped  the  limestone  found  on  the 
lands  belonging  to  the  Carron  Company,  and  where  also 
ships  frequently  touch,  to  take  in  a  supply  of  fresh 
water  ;  there  is  also  a  pier  to  the  east  of  the  town, 
chiefly  used  for  the  shipping  of  lime  for  neighbour- 
ing districts.  The  town  was,  in  1541,  erected  into  a 
royal  burgh,  by  James  V.,  whose  charter  was  confirmed 
by  his  successor,  James  VI.,  with  additional  grants ; 
and  a  new  charter  was  bestowed  upon  the  inhabitants  by 
Charles  I.,  under  which  the  government  is  vested  in  a 
provost,  three  bailies,  a  treasurer,  procurator-fiscal,  and 
Vol.  I.— 161 


a  council  of  twenty-one,  assisted  by  a  town- clerk.  The 
provost  and  bailies,  with  all  the  other  officers,  are 
elected  by  the  council,  who  are  chosen  by  the  resident 
householders.  The  magistrates  exercise  jurisdiction 
within  the  burgh,  and  the  bailies  hold  courts  for  the 
trial  of  civil  cases  to  any  amount,  and  for  the  decision 
of  criminal  offences,  chiefly  misdemeanours ;  there  is 
also  a  court  of  guild,  under  a  dean  of  guild  chosen  by  the 
council.  The  trading  companies  consist  of  the  hammer- 
men, tailors,  weavers,  fleshers,  shoemakers,  and  bakers. 
The  burgh  unites  with  those  of  Kirkcaldy,  Dysart,  and 
Kinghorn,  in  returning  a  member  to  the  imperial  par- 
liament ;  the  right  of  election  is  vested  in  the  resident 
householders  occupying  premises  of  the  value  of  £10 
per  annum. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  Frith, 
and  comprises  about  3000  acres,  of  which  500  are  mea- 
dow and  pasture,  100  woodland  and  plantations,  and 
the  remainder  arable  land.  The  surface  is  exceedingly 
irregular,  being  broken  into  parallel  ridges  of  various 
eminence,  and,  throughout  the  whole  of  its  extent,  is 
finely  diversified  with  hills  and  dales  ;  the  highest  of 
the  hills  is  Dunearn,  which  rises  to  the  height  of  700 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  commanding  a  most  ex- 
tensive and  richly-varied  prospect,  embracing  portions 
of  nearly  fourteen  counties.  The  soil  is  very  various, 
consisting  of  rich  deep  loam,  of  great  fertility,  with 
lighter  loam,  gravel,  sand,  clay,  and  moss  ;  the  prin- 
cipal crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  beans,  and  potatoes, 
with  the  usual  green  crops.  Great  improvement  has 
taken  place  in  draining  the  lands,  and  the  system  of 
agriculture  is  in  a  very  forward  condition  ;  the  cattle  are 
of  the  old  Fifeshire  breed,  and  the  sheep  generally  of 
the  Cheviot.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£SS46.  The  plantations  are  but  of  modern  growth,  and 
there  is  comparatively  little  ornamental  timber,  though 
the  soil  seems  well  adapted  to  hard  woods  of  every  kind. 
The  substrata  are  chiefly  limestone,  sandstone,  iron- 
stone, clay-slate,  shale,  greenstone,  trap-tuffa,  and  basalt; 
and  coal  is  supposed  to  exist,  though  none  has  hitherto 
been  wrought :  in  the  strata  of  sandstone,  limestone, 
and  shale,  are  various  fossils,  and  amethysts,  agates, 
and  chalcedony  are  found  in  great  variety.  Limestone 
and  sandstone  are  extensively  quarried.  Collinswell, 
Grange,  and  Newbigging,  all  handsome  edifices,  are 
pleasantly  situated  in  grounds  tastefully  embellished. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcaldy  and 
synod  of  Fife;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £185.  17-  4., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £50  per  annum. 
The  church,  a  substantial  edifice,  with  a  low  square  tower, 
and  situated  near  the  shore  of  the  Frith,  was  erected  by 
the  inhabitants,  in  1592;  it  is  adapted  for  a  congrega- 
tion of  900  persons.  There  are  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church  and  United  Secession 
Church.  The  burgh  school  affords  instruction  under  a 
master  appointed  by  the  council,  who  pay  him  a  salary 
of  £26  ;  he  also  receives  a  fourth  part  of  the  rent  of 
lands  bequeathed  in  the  year  1689,  by  John  Watson, 
Esq.,  provost  of  Burntisland,  and  now  producing  in 
the  whole  £63  per  annum,  of  which  the  remaining 
three-fourths  are  divided  among  widows,  under  the  di- 
rection of  the  magistrates  and  council.  There  are  several 
vestiges  of  the  fortifications  of  the  town  ;  and  on  the 
south  side  of  the  harbour,  are  portions  of  the  walls 
of  an  ancient  fort.     On  a  knoll  projecting  boldly  into 

Y 


BURR 


BUTE 


the  sea,  at  Lamberlaws,  are  traces  of  an  encampment 
said  to  have  been  occupied  by  Cromwell ;  and  on  an 
eminence  overlooking  the  harbour,  are  the  remains  of 
Rossend  Castle,  built  in  the  fifteenth  century  ;  it  has  been 
greatly  improved  within  the  last  few  years,  and  forms  a 
pleasant  residence,  surrounded  with  gardens  and  planta- 
tions. There  are  several  tumuli  in  various  parts,  in  one 
of  which  were  found  coffins,  of  rudely  squared  stones ; 
on  an  eminence  in  the  north-west  of  the  parish,  are 
some  remains  of  the  fort  called  Knockdavie,  and  about 
a  mile  to  the  east  of  it,  of  another  of  similar  construc- 
tion. 

BURRA  and  QUARFF,  late  a  quoad  sacra  parish, 
in  the  parish  of  Bressay,  county  of  Orkney  and  Shet- 
land ;  containing  870  inhabitants.  The  district  of  Burra 
lies  west  of  the  Mainland,  from  which  it  is  separated 
by  Cliff  Sound,  and  comprehends  the  isles  of  House, 
Burra,  Halvera,  and  Papa,  the  two  last  of  which  are  of 
very  small  extent.  Halvera,  situated  two  miles  south 
from  Burra,  is  a  precipitous  elevation,  approached  by  a 
creek,  and  tenanted  by  only  a  few  families  ;  and  Papa, 
a  mile  north  from  Burra,  merely  affords  a  residence  to 
two  families.  House  or  the  eastern  isle,  which  is  about 
half  a  mile  from  Quarff,  and  Burra  or  the  western  isle, 
which  is  mostly  the  same  distance  from  House,  are 
each  formed  principally  of  a  hilly  ridge,  of  rugged  and 
irregular  appearance,  the  former  about  five  miles  in 
length,  and  the  latter  about  six.  In  one  place,  the  isles 
nearly  touch  each  other,  the  communication  being  car- 
ried on  by  means  of  a  small  bridge,  consisting  of  beams 
of  wood  resting  on  two  piles  of  uncemented  stones  :  the 
coast  of  both  islands  is  rocky.  Quarff  district,  situated 
between  those  of  Bressay  and  Burra,  and  forming  part 
of  the  Mainland,  is  six  miles  south-west  from  Bressay, 
and  consists  of  a  valley,  which  is  about  two  miles  long, 
and  half  a  mile  broad,  and  is  inhabited  and  cultivated  ; 
together  with  a  tract  of  natural  pasture  on  the  north, 
and  another  on  the  south,  about  a  mile  each  in  length. 
The  whole  forms  a  pleasingly  rural  picture,  ornamented 
with  cottages  on  each  side  of  the  winding  valley,  skirted 
by  the  mountains,  and  separated  from  each  other  b)r 
verdant  meadows,  with  the  advantage  of  an  interesting 
bay  on  the  east  and  west.  The  southern  part  of  the 
valley  is  defended  by  the  Cliff  and  Coningsbnrgh  hills, 
which  here  unite  in  a  ridge,  and  the  northern  part  by 
those  of  Tingwall  and  Lerwick,  the  highest  point  of 
which  is  estimated  at  500  feet.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Lerwick  and  synod  of 
Shetland  ;  the  patronage  belongs  to  the  Crown,  and  the 
stipend  of  the  minister  is  £120,  with  a  manse.  There  are 
two  churches,  of  which  that  of  Quarff  is  the  principal, 
service  being  only  occasionally  performed  at  Burra  ;  the 
church  of  Burra,  situated  near  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  western  isle,  was  built  in  1S04,  and  accommo- 
dates about  200  persons  ;  that  of  Quarff  was  erected  in 
1830,  by  government,  and  made  the  chief  place  of  wor- 
ship, and  contains  about  300  sittings.  A  place  of  wor- 
ship has  been  built  for  members  of  the  Free  Church. — 
See  Bressay. 

BURRAY,  an  island,  forming  part  of  the  ancient 
parish  of  St.  Peter,  island  of  South  Ronaldshay, 
South  isles  of  Orkney,  and  containing  532  inhabitants. 
This  is  a  low  island,  bounded  on  the  south  by  Water 
Sound,  and  on  the  north  by  Holm  Sound,  and  is  about 
four  miles  in  length,  and  one  in  breadth ;  the  soil,  which 
162 


affords  good  pasturage,  is  in  general  a  light  dry  sand, 
mixed,  in  a  few  places,  with  some  coarse  clay  :  fishing 
is  the  employment  of  a  large  portion  of  the  population. 
Across  Water  Sound  is  a  ferry,  a  mile  broad,  to  the 
island  of  Ronaldshay. 

BURRELTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Car- 
gill,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  485  inhabitants. 
Here  are  a  chapel  of  ease,  unendowed,  supported  by 
subscription,  and  a  small  school  j  also  a  place  of  worship 
for  members  of  the  Free  Church. 

BUSBY,  a  village,  partly  in  the  parish  of  East  Kil- 
bride, Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  but 
chiefly  in  the  parish  of  Mearns,  Upper  ward  of  the 
county  of  Renfrew  ;  containing  902  inhabitants.  This 
village  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  river  White  Cart, 
of  which  the  sides,  abruptly  precipitous  and  rocky,  are 
thickly  wooded,  and  display  much  variety  of  scenery. 
The  inhabitants  are  employed  chiefly  in  a  print-field 
and  a  factory  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood ;  the 
print-field  is  in  the  parish  of  East  Kilbride,  and  the 
cotton-factory,  which  was  established  in  1/80,  in  that 
of  Mearns.  A  penny-post  has  been  instituted  here, 
under  the  office  of  Glasgow. 

BUSHYHILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cambus- 
lang,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  contain- 
ing 393  inhabitants. 

BUTE,  ISLE  OF,  in  the  county  of  Bute  ;  com- 
prising the  parishes  of  North  Bute,  Kingarth,  and 
Rothesay,  and  containing  S078  inhabitants.  It  is  in  the 
Frith  of  Clyde,  and  separated  from  Cowal,  a  district  of 
Argyllshire,  by  a  narrow  channel ;  its  length  is  eighteen, 
and  its  breadth  between  four  and  five,  miles.  The 
northern  parts  are  rocky  and  barren,  but  the  southern 
extremity  is  more  fertile,  well  cultivated  and  inclosed, 
and  in  some  places  finely  wooded ;  and  it  is  said  that 
no  part  of  Scotland  has  made  more  rapid  progress  in 
agriculture  than  this  island,  within  the  last  twenty  years. 
The  climate  is  remarkably  mild,  especially  in  winter 
and  spring,  and,  during  these  seasons,  is  much  resorted 
to  by  invalids.  The  coast  is  rocky,  but  is  indented  with 
several  safe  harbours,  in  which  a  number  of  small  craft 
are  fitted  out  for  the  herring-fishery,  which  is  the  prin- 
cipal occupation  of  the  male  inhabitants  :  the  chief  port 
is  Rothesay.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  island  is 
£17,777-  There  are  several  remains  of  antiquity  ;  and 
in  particular,  near  Rothesay,  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
castle,  with  a  fort,  barracks,  and  drawbridge,  once  the 
residence  of  the  kings  of  Scotland  ;  there  are  also  several 
Danish  towers,  and  fragments  of  fortifications  on  some 
of  the  hill-tops. 

BUTE,  NORTH,  a  new  civil  parish,  consisting  of 
part  of  the  old  parish  of  Rothesay,  isle  and  county  of 
Bute,  l|  mile  (N.  W.)  from  Rothesay;  containing,  with 
the  island  of  Inch-Marnock.  765  inhabitants.  This  place, 
which  comprises  about  half  of  the  island  of  Bute,  owes 
its  origin  to  the  erection  and  endowment,  by  the  Mar- 
quess of  Bute,  of  an  elegant  church,  in  1835,  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  northern  por- 
tion of  the  parish  of  Rothesay.  The  church  is  pleasantly 
situated  in  a  valley  between  Kames  bay  on  the  east,  and 
Etterick  bay  on  the  west ;  and  the  erection  and  endow- 
ment, and  building  of  the  manse,  with  other  expenses 
attendant  on  the  completion  of  the  marquess's  design, 
are  estimated  at  £S000  :  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is 
£150,  with  an  allowance  of  £12  in  lieu  of  glebe.     The 


BYTH 


CABR 


Gaelic  church  in  Rothesay  is  dependent  upon  North 
Bute,  the  clergyman  officiating  there  being  the  assistant 
of  its  minister.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have 
a  place  of  worship  ;  and  a  parochial  school  is  situated, 
but  rather  inconveniently,  at  Etterick,  and  supported  by 
a  salary  from  the  marquess,  and  by  the  fees. 

BUTESHIRE,  a  county,  on  the  western  coast  of 
Scotland,  consisting  of  the  isles  of  Bute,  Arran,  Inch- 
Marnock,  and  Great  and  Little  Cumbray,  in  the  Firth 
of  Clyde  ;  separated  on  the  north  from  Argyllshire  by 
the  straits  called  the  Kyles  of  Bute,  and  on  the  west, 
from  the  peninsula  of  Cantyre,  by  Kilbrannan  Sound. 
It  lies  between  55°  26'  and  55°  56'  (N.  Lat.),  and  4°  54' 
and  5°  23'  (W.  Long.),  and  comprises  an  area  of 
about  257  square  miles,  or  164,480  acres ;  3067  inhabited 
houses,  and  97  uninhabited;  with  a  population  of 
15,740,  of  whom  7155  are  males,  and  S5S5  females. 
The  island  of  Bute,  at  a  very  early  period,  became  the 
property  of  Sir  John  Stuart,  a  son  of  Robert  II.,  and 
was  confirmed  to  him  by  his  brother,  Robert  III.,  and  is 
still  the  property  of  his  descendant,  the  Marquess  of 
Bute ;  that  of  Arran  was  granted  by  James  III.  to  Sir 
James  Hamilton,  whose  descendant,  the  Earl  of  Arran, 
was  regent  of  Scotland  during  the  minority  of  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots,  and  it  now  is  the  property  of  the  Duke 
of  Hamilton.  The  civil  business  of  the  county  is  trans- 
acted at  the  royal  burgh  of  Rothesay,  which  is  the  only 
town  ;  and  under  the  act  of  the  2nd  of  William  IV., 
the  county  returns  a  member  to  the  imperial  parlia- 
ment. 

The  surface  is  various  :  the  island  of  Bute,  in  the 
central  parts,  is  diversified  with  hills  affording  excellent 
pasturage,  and  with  valleys  of  rich  arable  land  in  excel- 
lent cultivation  ;  Arran  is  rugged  and  mountainous,  in- 
terspersed w7ith  glens  of  moss,  through  which  several 
streams,  descending  from  the  heights,  flow  into  the 
sea.  The  highest  of  the  mountains  in  Arran,  is  Goat- 
Fell,  which  has  an  elevation  of  3500  feet  above  the  sea  ; 
and  from  its  summit  is  an  extensive  view,  embracing 
England,  Ireland,  and  the  Isle  of  Man.  In  both  islands 
there  are  numerous  lakes  ;  and  the  coasts  are  indented 
with  fine  bays,  of  which  the  chief  in  Bute  are,  Kilchat- 
tan,  Rothesay,  and  Kames,  on  the  east,  and  Dungoil, 
Stravannan,  Scalpsie,  St.  Ninian's,  and  Etterick,  on  the 
west ;  the  bays  in  Arran  are,  Lamlash,  which  is  acces- 
sible in  every  wind,  Whiting,  and  Brodick,  on  the  east, 
and  Druimadoun  and  Machry,  on  the  west.  Opposite 
to  St.  Ninian's  bay,  is  the  island  of  Inch-Marnock  ;  and 
at  the  entrance  of  Lamlash  bay,  is  the  Holy  Island. 
Freestone,  limestone,  slate,  and  an  inferior  kind  of  coal, 
are  the  prevailing  substrata  ;  and  near  the  shore,  are 
some  beds  of  coral  and  shells  of  great  thickness.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  county  is  £30,9/6.  The 
chief  seats  are,  Brodick  Castle,  at  the  head  of  the  bay  of 
that  name ;  and  Mount  Stuart,  situated  on  an  accli- 
vity opposite  to  the  entrance  of  the  Clyde.  The  island 
gives  the  title  of  Marquess  to  the  ancient  family  of 
Stuart. 

BUTTERGASK,  a  village,  in  the  late  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Ardoch,  parish  of  Dunblane,  county  of 
Perth  ;  containing  65  inhabitants.  It.  is  situated  in 
the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  on  a  stream  tributary  to 
the  Allan,  and  a  short  distance  from  the  roab  between 
Auchterarder  and  Dunblane. 

BYTH,  NEW.— See  Newbyth. 
163 


CABRACH,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  district  of  Al- 
ford,  county  of  Aberdeen,  but  chiefly  in  the  county 
of  Banff,  12  miles  (W.)  from  Clatt ;  containing  827 
inhabitants.  This  parish,  which  is  about  twelve  miles 
in  length,  from  north  to  south,  and  four  in  breadth, 
from  east  to  west,  is  covered  to  a  considerable  extent 
with  moss  and  fir,  and  derives  its  name  from  certain 
Gaelic  terms  signifying  "  the  timber  moss."  The  por- 
tion in  the  county  of  Aberdeen  consists  of  a  deep  exca- 
vation in  the  form  of  a  basin,  surrounded  by  hills  ; 
and  that  in  Banffshire  of  winding  valleys,  skirted  on 
each  side  by  lofty  eminences,  and  stretching  along  the 
course  of  the  Blackwater  and  Doveran  streams.  The 
surface  is  exceedingly  rugged,  and  the  entire  district 
bleak,  wild,  and  mountainous,  spread  over,  to  a  great 
extent,  with  tracts  of  peat-moss,  affording  an  inexhaus- 
tible supply  of  fuel ;  large  moors  abounding  with  grouse, 
partridges,  hares,  and  almost  every  kind  of  game ;  and 
waste  land  incapable  of  cultivation  ;  the  parts  under 
tillage  bearing  a  very  small  proportion  to  the  aggregate 
number  of  acres.  Green  crops,  and  grass  for  hay, 
thrive  better  than  grain  ;  oats  and  bear,  which  are 
chiefly  sown,  seldom  coming  to  maturity  in  the  higher 
district  except  in  fine  seasons.  The  inhabitants,  how- 
ever, engage  in  agricultural  pursuits  with  great  spirit, 
having  introduced  most  of  the  improvements  of  thesouth- 
ern  parts ;  the  cattle  are  the  black  native  breed,  large 
numbers  of  which  are  reared,  with  many  sheep,  and 
some  of  the  former  are  sent  to  the  markets  in  the  south, 
in  a  lean  condition,  for  sale,  as  well  as  to  the  surround- 
ing districts.  A  considerable  extent  of  waste  has  been 
brought  under  tillage  within  the  present  century,  and 
inclosures  of  various  kinds  are  in  progress  ;  but  the 
bad  state  of  the  roads,  and  the  want  of  sufficient  capital 
for  their  repair  or  enlargement,  render  agricultural  im- 
provement difficult.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £1632  for  the  Banffshire  portion,  and  £830 
for  the  Aberdeenshire  portion.  The  district  abounds 
with  limestone  ;  and  a  small  grey  slate  is  occasionally 
dug  up,  and  used  chiefly  for  building,'  within  the  loca- 
lity. The  mountain  streams  supply  abundance  of  trout ; 
the  Doveran,  which  rises  here  in  several  heads,  contains 
excellent  salmon,  and  in  addition  to  the  game  upon  the 
moors,  the  forests  of  Glen-fiddich  and  Blackwater  are 
well  stocked  with  fine  deer.  There  were  till  lately  two 
establishments  for  the  distillation  of  malt  spirits,  pro- 
ducing annually  10,000  gallons.  An  annual  market  is 
held  on  the  Thursday  after  the  third  Tuesday  in  July 
(O.  S.),  and  another  on  the  Monday  before  the  second 
Tuesday  in  October  (O.  S.),  chiefly  for  the  sale  of  black- 
cattle  bred  here.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Alford  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage  of 
the  Duke  of  Richmond;  the  stipend  is  £158.  6.  7-,  of 
which  nearly  half  is  received  from  the  exchequer  ;  there 
is  a  manse,  built  in  1802,  with  about  2S  acres  of  glebe, 
valued  at  £10  per  annum.  The  church  is  a  plain  edifice, 
erected  about  1786.  The  parochial  schoolmaster  re- 
ceives a  salary  of  £32.  2.,  with  a  few  pounds  derived 
from  fees  ;  and  another  school  has  a  small  endowment 
from  the  Duke  of  Richmond.     On  the  farm  of  Shenwell, 

Y2 


C  A  D  D 


CAER 


at  a  place  called  "  King's  haugh,"  is  an  ancient  ruin, 
traditionally  reported  to  have  been  the  residence  of  Mal- 
colm Canmore ;  and  near  Lesmurdie,  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  Doveran,  are  the  remains  of  a  chapel  and  burial- 
ground. 

CADDER,  or  CALDER,  a  parish,  in  the  Lower 
ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  3  miles  (W.  by  S.) 
from  Kirkintilloch ;  containing,  with  the  village  of 
Auchinearn,  the  hamlet  of  Bishopbridge,  and  the  late 
quoad  sacra  district  of  Chryston,  4425  inhabitants. 
This  place  derives  its  name  from  its  situation  in  the  midst 
of  a  district  abounding  with  wood  and  water,  of  which 
its  appellation  in  the  old  British  language,  Colder,  is 
significant.  It  appears  to  have  owed  its  origin,  as  a 
parish,  to  the  foundation  of  a  church  by  St.  Patrick,  who 
was  born  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  who,  towards 
the  close  of  the  5th  century,  founded  numerous  other 
churches  in  the  neighbourhood,  which  were  subsequently 
endowed  by  Convallus  II.,  with  lands  for  the  mainte- 
nance of  their  respective  clergy.  The  parish  is  about 
fourteen  miles  in  length,  and  four  in  breadth,  and  the 
surface,  which  is  generally  undulated,  is  diversified  with 
lakes,  and  by  various  tributary  streams,  which  fall  into 
the  river  Kelvin,  the  parish  boundary  on  the  north  and 
west.  Of  the  former,  the  most  important  were,  Auchin- 
loch,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  from  which,  on 
its  being  drained  some  years  since,  a  stream  was  con- 
ducted to  the  Kelvin;  Loch  Grog,  drained  in  1844; 
and  Robroyston  loch,  in  the  western  part,  now  almost 
reclaimed  into  arable  land.  Johnston  loch,  in  the  east- 
ern part,  is  about  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  is  em- 
ployed by  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Company,  as  a  reservoir 
for  supplying  their  canal,  for  which  purpose,  also,  they 
have  appropriated  the  Bishop's  loch,  of  which  a  small 
portion  is  within  this  parish. 

The  soil  is  extremely  various  ;  in  some  parts,  a  rich 
black  loam ;  in  others,  mossy ;  on  the  banks  of  the 
various  streams,  chiefly  alluvial ;  and  in  some  parts, 
sandy.  Several  of  the  mosses,  all  of  which  abound  with 
peat,  have  been  reclaimed,  affording  excellent  crops. 
About  9000  acres  of  land  are  in  cultivation,  about  300 
deep  moss,  and  there  are  something  more  than  500  acres 
in  plantations,  of  which  the  principal,  on  the  Cadder 
estate,  contains  .many  trees  of  ancient  and  luxuriant 
growth  :  there  are  several  extensive  dairy-farms,  most!}' 
stocked  with  cows  of  the  Ayrshire  breed.  The  crops 
are,  oats,  wheat,  potatoes,  barley,  rye,  and  turnips,  in 
the  production  of  which  the  improved  system  of  agri- 
culture is  adopted.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £21,941.  The  substratum  is  chiefly  whin- 
stone,  many  seams  of  which,  in  different  parts,  rise  above 
the  surface;  freestone  is  also  found  in  abundance,  alter- 
nating with  the  whiustone,  and  large  quantities  of  it 
are  sent  to  Glasgow.  Limestone  is  prevalent;  and  coal 
exists  in  the  parish,  at  a  considerable  depth,  but  the 
quality  is  not  sufficiently  good  to  remunerate  the  labour 
of  working  it.  There  are  some  extensive  tracts  of  clay, 
used  for  pottery  and  bricks ;  of  the  former,  various 
elegant  specimens  of  vases  have  been  produced,  and 
fire-bricks  and  crucibles  of  excellent  quality  are  made  of 
the  latter.  Ironstone  abounds,  and  is  wrought  to  a 
considerable  extent  by  the  Carron  Company.  The  Forth 
and  Clyde  canal  intersects  the  western  portion  of  the 
parish,  passing  in  a  line  nearly  parallel  with  the  river 
Kelvin;  the  Kirkintilloch  railway,  opened  in  1826, 
164 


crosses  its  eastern  extremity,  and  the  Garnkirk  and 
Glasgow  railway,  opened  in  1831,  passes  on  the  south 
side,  for  several  miles.  In  1842,  the  line  of  the  Edin- 
burgh and  Glasgow  railway  was  carried  through  the 
parish.  The  village,  formerly  extensive,  contains  at 
present  only  sixty-four  inhabitants,  employed  on  the 
lands  of  its  proprietor,  whose  mansion,  recently  enlarged, 
forms  the  principal  object  of  interest  in  the  place. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  the  presbytery  of  Glasgow  and  synod  of  Glas- 
gow and  Ayr ;  the  patronage  is  in  the  heritors  and  Kirk 
Session,  and  the  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £280.  S.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  about  ten  acres.  The  church, 
erected  in  1S30,  is  a  neat  edifice  of  stone,  in  the  early 
English  style,  with  a  square  tower,  and  is  adapted  for  a 
congregation  of  about  S00  persons.  There  are  three 
parochial  schools,  situated  respectively  at  Cadder, 
Chryston,  and  Auchinearn  ;  the  master  in  Cadder  has 
a  salary  of  £25.  13.,  and  the  fees  amount  to  more  than 
a  sum  of  £55  ;  the  master  at  Chryston  has  £17.  2.,  with 
£56  fees,  and  the  master  of  Auchinearn  has  £8.  10., 
with  £12  fees,  and  the  interest  of  1000  merks  be- 
queathed by  the  Rev.  James  Warden.  Another  school, 
in  the  village  of  Auchinloch,  is  endowed  with  £300,  be- 
queathed by  Patrick  Baird,  Esq.  There  are  some  re- 
mains of  the  ancient  Roman  wall,  near  the  glebe.  In 
1813,  a  gold  coin  of  Antoninus  Pius  was  discovered,  in 
a  very  perfect  state,  in  clearing  out  the  pond  of  Cadder  ; 
and  in  levelling  the  lawn  before  the  house,  the  founda- 
tions of  the  old  tower  appeared,  in  which  was  found  a 
vessel  containing  more  than  300  gold  coins,  of  the  size 
of  a  shilling,  with  the  inscription  Jacobus. 

CAERLAVEROCK,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Dumfries,  5  miles  (S.  S.  E.)  from  Dumfries;  contain- 
ing, with  Sherrington,  Bankhead,  Glencaple-Quay,  and 
Blackshaws,  1297  inhabitants.  Different  opinions 
exist  in  regard  to  the  derivation  of  the  name  of  this 
parish,  some  interpreting  the  words  of  which  it  is 
composed,  "the  castle  with  the  buttress  jutting  out," 
and  others,  "  the  castle  close  upon  the  sea,"  referring  to 
the  most  prominent  historical  memorial  in  the  place, 
the  singularly  formed  and  strong  fortress  called  Caer- 
laverock  Castle.  It  stands  near  the  shores  of  the 
Solway  Frith,  and  is  of  triangular  figure,  having  a 
double  moat,  with  portcullis  after  portcullis,  to  defend 
the  entrance ;  there  is  also  a  provision  for  the  dis- 
charge of  a  torrent  of  molten  lead  on  the  heads  of 
the  besiegers.  The  existing  castle  is  the  second  build- 
ing, the  first,  which  has  long  been  totally  destroyed, 
having  nothing  left  but  the  foundations,  which  are 
visible  about  300  yards  from  the  more  modern 
structure,  and  indicate  the  old  castle  to  have  been 
somewhat  smaller  than  the  present,  but  of  the  same 
form.  The  original  castle  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  in  the  6th  century,  by  Llyvvarch  Og,  and  to 
have  been  the  chief  seat  of  the  ancient  and  illus- 
trious family  of  Maxwell,  in  the  days  of  King  Mal- 
colm Canmore ;  it  was  attacked  and  taken  by  King 
Edward  I.,  who  afterwards  passed  several  days  here. 
The  exact  time  when  the  second  castle  was  built, 
has  not  been  ascertained,  but  is  known  to  have  been 
before  the  year  1425  ;  in  1570,  it  was  ruined  by  the 
Earl  of  Sussex,  who  had  been  sent  with  an  English 
army,  to  support  James  VI.,  after  the  murder  of  the 
regent.      It   was,   however,    reinstated    in   its    former 


CAIR 


C  A  I  R 


strength,  by  Robert,  first  Earl  of  Nithsdale,  in  ]63S; 
and  during  the  troubles  of  Charles  I.,  its  owner,  who 
had  supported  the  royal  cause  with  all  his  energies, 
was  ordered  by  that  monarch  to  yield  it  up,  on  the 
best  terms  he  could  obtain.  After  the  siege  by 
Cromwell,  it  was  found  to  contain  eighty-six  beds,  forty 
carpets,  and  a  library  worth  £200. 

The  parish  is  six  miles  long,  and  about  two  broad, 
containing  5800  acres,  and  is  bounded  on  the  south 
by  the  Solway  Frith  ;  on  the  east,  by  the  Lochar ; 
and  on  the  west,  by  the  river  Nith,  which  separates 
it  from  the  county  of  Kirkcudbright.  The  Solway, 
in  this  part,  is  about  twelve  miles  wide.  The  Nith 
is  affected  by  the  tide  as  far  as  Dumfries,  but  at 
low  water  is  easily  fordable ;  it  forms  about  six  miles 
of  the  boundary  line  of  the  parish.  The  Lochar,  on 
the  other  side,  flows  through  an  extensive  moss,  which 
prevents  all  communication  in  that  quarter,  except 
in  the  driest  months  of  summer,  and  then  it  is 
passable  only  by  pedestrians.  The  soil,  to  some  ex- 
tent, is  mossy,  but  its  general  character  is  that  of 
light  loam,  and  the  worst  soil  is,  in  this  district,  usually 
in  the  valleys  :  4323  acres  are  cultivated,  and  produce 
all  kinds  of  white  and  green  crops ;  126  acres  are 
under  wood,  75  are  moss  and  river,  and  252  marsh. 
The  cattle  are  of  the  Galloway  breed,  with  a  few  Ayr- 
shire cows,  and  the  sheep  are  the  Leicesters  ;  the  best 
system  of  agriculture  is  followed,  and  the  improvements 
recently  made  in  every  department  have  been  con- 
siderable. The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£4495.  The  rocks  almost  throughout  consist  of  red 
sandstone,  which  is  easily  wrought,  and  durable,  and 
is  used  for  many  purposes.  At  Glencaple-Quay,  the 
chief  village,  large  vessels  bound  for  Dumfries  unload, 
when  unable,  from  their  burthen,  to  reach  their  place 
of  destination.  There  is  a  salmon-fishery  connected 
with  the  parish,  valued  at  £100  per  annum,  and  a 
white-fishing  is  valued  at  £40.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Dumfries  and  synod 
of  Dumfries;  patron,  the  Marquess  of  Queensberry.  The 
stipend  of  the  minister  is  £177,  with  a  manse,  built 
in  1S38,  by  the  heritors,  and  a  glebe  of  nearly  20 
acres,  valued  at  £32  per  annum.  The  church,  built  in 
1781,  contains  470  sittings.  There  is  a  parochial 
school,  in  which  mathematics,  the  classics,  and  all 
the  usual  branches  of  education  are  taught,  and  the 
master  of  which  has  the  maximum  salary,  with  fees, 
and  £40  a  year  from  the  Hutton  bequest.  Two  other 
schools  are  supported  out  of  bequests,  and  there  is 
a  parochial  library,  instituted  in  1S33.  Dr.  John 
Hutton,  first  physician  to  Queen  Anne,  was  born  here, 
and  after  realizing  a  handsome  fortune  by  his  pro- 
fession, became  a  munificent  benefactor  to  his  native 
parish,  and  left  a  valuable  library  to  the  presbytery  of 
Dumfries,  comprising  the  prayer-book  used  by  the 
unfortunate  King  Charles  when  on  the  scaffold.  This 
prayer-book,  however,  was  some  time  ago  abstracted, 
and  sold  at  an  auction  in  London  for  a  large  sum. 

CAIRNBEDDIE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  St. 
Martin's,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  44  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  a  very  short  distance  north  of  the  village 
of  St.  Martin's. 

CAIRNBULG,  a  village,   in  the  parish  of  Rathen, 
district  of  Deer,  county  of  Aberdeen,  3  miles  (N.  N.  E.) 
from  Rathen;  containing  406    inhabitants.     This  is  a 
165 


fishing  village,  situated  on  the  north-eastern  coast  of 
Fraserburgh  bay,  called  Cairnbulg  Point,  and  closely 
adjoining  Inverallochie,  another  village,  of  which  the 
inhabitants  are  also  fishers.  Here  are  the  ruins  of 
an  old  castle,  which  seems  to  have  been  of  considerable 
strength,  and  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  predecessors 
of  Lord  Saltoun.  It  was  called  Philorth,  until  sold 
by  Sir  Alexander  Fraser,  in  1613,  to  Fraser  of  Durris, 
when  its  name  was  changed  to  Cairnbulg,  Sir  Alexander 
transferring  that  of  Philorth  to  another  mansion,  about 
a  mile  westward,  which  has  ever  since  been  the  resi- 
dence of  the  lords  Saltoun. 

CAIRNEYHILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Car- 
nock,  district  of  Dunfermline,  county  of  Fife,  3 
miles  (W.  S.W.)  from  Dunfermline;  containing  516  in- 
habitants. This  village,  which  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  banks  of  the  burn  of  Pitdennies,  consists  of 
one  long  street  of  neat  houses,  on  the  road  from 
Dunfermline  to  Alloa.  It  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  per- 
sons employed  in  the  manufacture  of  table-linen,  and 
of  table-covers,  for  the  wholesale  houses  at  Dunfermline, 
which  is  carried  on  by  hand-loom  weaving,  at  their 
own  dwellings  ;  a  considerable  number  are  also  engaged 
in  the  adjacent  collieries.  A  library  has  been  esta- 
blished for  many  years,  and  is  supported  by  subscrip- 
tion. There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  United  Associate  Synod. 

CAIRNIE,  a  parish,  chiefly  in  the  district  of 
Strathbogie,  county  of  Aberdeen,  but  partly  in  the 
county  of  Banff,  4  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Huntly;  con- 
taining 163S  inhabitants.  This  place  once  formed 
part  of  the  lordship  of  Strathbogie,  which  was  granted 
to  Sir  Adam  Gordon,  by  King  Robert  Bruce,  after 
the  defeat  and  attainder  of  Cumin,  Earl  of  Badenoch, 
and  was  the  original  estate  of  the  family  of  Gordon, 
whose  property,  since  that  period,  has  become  very 
greatly  extended.  The  surface  is  hilly,  and  compre- 
hends 4S  square  miles,  of  which  extent  S000  acres  are  in 
tillage,  and  2600  acres  were  planted  in  the  year  1S39 
with  6,700,000  trees,  by  the  Duke  of  Richmond,  who 
is  proprietor  of  nearly  the  whole  of  the  parish ;  the 
soil  in  the  vicinity  of  the  streams  is  fertile,  and  the 
husbandry  on  a  respectable  footing.  Extensive  lime- 
works  are  in  operation  at  Ardonald,  which,  in  the 
twenty-three  years  previous  to  1842,  produced  a  revenue 
of  £69,770.  The  mosses  supply  part  of  the  fuel  con- 
sumed, and  the  remainder  consists  of  coal  brought 
from  the  coast,  eighteen  miles  distant ;  the  substrata 
comprise  granite,  clay-slate,  greenstone,  and  a  few  other 
varieties.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£5145.  The  black-cattle  and  dairy-produce,  which  are 
the  principal  marketable  commodities,  are  taken  for 
sale  to  Huntly,  or  sent  to  the  coast ;  and  facilities  of 
communication  are  afforded  by  the  road  from  Aberdeen 
to  Inverness,  which  passes  through  the  parish.  Cairnie 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Strathbogie  and  synod  of 
Moray,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Duke  of  Rich- 
mond; the  minister's  stipend  is  £210.  0.  3.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £25  per  annum.  The 
church,  which  stands  in  a  central  situation,  was  built 
at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century.  There  is 
a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church. 
The  parochial  schoolmaster  has  a  salary  of  £18.  16.,  with 
sixteen  bolls  of  meal,  and  £15  fees;  he  also  shares  in 
the  Dick  bequest. 


C  A  1  T 


C  A  L  D 


CAIRNIE-HILL,  Perth.— See  Carnie-Hill. 

CAIRNRYAN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Inch, 
county  of  Wigton,  6  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Stranraer ; 
containing  196  inhabitants.  It  is  seated  on  the  east 
side  of  Loch  Ryan,  and  has  a  safe  harbour,  with  good 
anchorage,  affording  shelter  to  vessels  entering  into,  or 
coming  from,  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  in  adverse  weather. 
The  village  is  well  situated  for  foreign  trade,  and  also 
adapted  for  ship-building ;  there  is  a  place  of  worship 
for  members  of  the  Free  Church. 

CAITHNESS-SHIRE,  a  county  in  the  north-east  of 
Scotland,  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Pentland  Frith; 
on  the  east  and  south-east,  by  the  German  Sea ;  and  on 
the  west  and  south-west,  by  the  county  of  Sutherland. 
It  lies  between  58°  10'  and  58°  40'  (N.  Lat.),  and  3°  and 
3°  65'  (W.  Long.),  and  is  about  forty-three  miles  in 
length,  and  thirty  miles  in  breadth  ;  comprising  an  area 
of  618  square  miles,  or  395,520  acres;  6965  inhabited 
houses,  and  216  uninhabited  :  and  a  population  of 
36,343,  of  whom  17,135  are  males,  and  19,20S  females. 
On  account  of  its  remote  situation,  it  had  little  inter- 
course with  the  principal  parts  of  the  country,  and  is 
consequently  connected  with  few  historical  events  of 
importance,  except  occasional  hostilities  with  the  Danes 
and  Norwegians,  of  which  there  are  some  memorials  in 
various  monumental  relics.  From  ancient  records,  it 
appears  to  have  been  erected  into  an  earldom,  in  875  ; 
the  title,  after  being  for  a  long  period  in  abeyance,  was 
revived  in  favour  of  William  Sinclair,  a  descendant  of 
Robert  II.,  in  1455.  Many  of  the  men  of  Caithness 
attended  James  IV.,  at  the  battle  of  Flodden  Field, 
under  the  Earl  of  Caithness  ;  but  scarcely  an  individual 
of  the  number  survived  that  fatal  conflict.  Previously 
to  the  Reformation,  this  county,  jointly  with  Suther- 
land, constituted  a  diocese,  of  which  the  cathedral  and 
episcopal  palace  were  situated  at  Dornoch  ;  it  is,  at 
present,  in  the  synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caithness,  and 
comprises  one  presbytery  and  ten  parishes.  For  civil 
purposes,  it  is  divided  into  the  districts  of  Wick  and 
Thurso,  where  the  quarter-sessions  and  other  courts  are 
held  alternately ;  and  it  contains  the  royal  burgh  of 
Wick,  which  is  the  county  town,  the  town  of  Thurso, 
and  a  few  inconsiderable  villages. 

The  surface  is  generally  level,  with  the  exception  of 
some  mountainous  tracts  on  the  borders  of  Sutherland, 
and  a  few  eminences  in  other  parts  ;  the  chief  moun- 
tains are,  the  Ord  of  Caithness,  which  has  an  elevation 
of  1250  feet,  the  Scarry  hills,  1876  feet,  and  the  Maiden 
Paps,  an  elevation  of  2000  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
principal  valleys  are  those  of  Berriedale,  at  the  base  of 
the  last  ridge  of  mountains,  and  the  plain  of  Caithness, 
extending  to  the  Pentland  Frith,  and  comprising  about 
four-fifths  of  the  lands,  though  interspersed  with  de- 
tached hills,  some  of  which  are  of  considerable  height. 
There  ai-e  numerous  lakes,  but  none  of  any  great  extent ; 
and  of  the  various  streams  which  intersect  the  county 
in  many  parts,  those  only  that  approach  the  resem- 
blance of  rivers,  are  the  Forrs  and  Thurso  waters  in  the 
north-west,  and  the  Wick  and  Berriedale  waters  in  the 
south-east.  The  coast  is  bold,  rocky,  and  precipitous, 
indented  with  numerous  bays,  and  marked  by  lofty 
promontories.  Along  the  shore  of  Pentland  Frith,  are 
caverns  in  the  rocks,  from  which  the  agitated  waters, 
ascending  with  prodigious  force,  overspread  the  neigh- 
bourhood with  incessant  foam ;  and  about  four  miles  to 
166 


the  north  of  the  coast,  and  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
Frith,  is  the  island  of  Stroma,  which  is  annexed  to  the 
county.  The  bays  are  those  of  Sandside,  Thurso,  Dun- 
net,  and  Gills,  on  the  north ;  and  Duncans,  Freswick, 
Sinclair,  and  Wick,  on  the  east :  the  most  prominent 
headlands  are,  Holburn,  Dwarrick,  Dunnet,  Duncans, 
Skirsa,  Noss,  and  Wick.  Little  more  than  a  fifth  part 
of  the  land  is  in  cultivation,  consisting  chiefly  of  tracts 
near  the  rivers,  and  the  slopes  of  the  various  eminences; 
the  remainder  is  mostly  moor,  some  parts  of  which  are 
nearly  300  feet  above  the  sea.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  county  is  £65,869.  The  principal  seats 
are,  Barogill  Castle,  Thurso  Castle,  Dunbeath,  Freswick, 
Hempriggs,  Ackergill,  Barroch,  Forrs,  and  Sandside. 
The  herring-fishery  off  the  east  coast  is  extensive  and 
lucrative,  indeed  the  most  important  in  Britain  ;  there 
are  several  harbours  for  the  vessels  engaged  in  the  fish- 
eries, and  considerable  quantities  of  grain,  cattle,  and 
wool  are  shipped.  The  county  gives  the  title  of  Earl 
to  the  ancient  family  of  Sinclair. 

CALDER,  Inverness  and  Nairn. — See  Cawdor. 

CALDER,  county  of  Lanark. — See  Cadder. 

CALDER  BANK  and  BRAES,  a  village,  in  the 
parish  of  Old  Monkland,  Middle  ward  of  the  county 
of  Lanark  ;  containing  1064  inhabitants.  It  is  seated 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  Calder,  and  south  of  the  high 
road  from  Airdrie  to  Glasgow  ;  the  Calder  here,  flowing 
on  the  south,  separates  the  parish  from  that  of  Both- 
well. 

CALDER,  EAST.— See  Kirknewton. 

CALDER,  MID,  a  parish,  situated  in  the  county 
of  Edinburgh  ;  containing,  with  the  village  of  Bells- 
Quarry,  1456  inhabitants,  of  whom  550  are  in  the  vil- 
lage of  Mid-Calder,  12  miles  (W.)  from  Edinburgh. 
This  place,  which  formed  part  of  the  extensive  district 
of  Calder,  obtained  the  appellation  of  Calder- Comitis, 
from  its  having  been  the  property  of  the  earls  of  Fife, 
in  the  twelfth  century ;  the  barony  afterwards  became 
part  of  the  ample  possessions  of  Sir  James  Sandilands, 
whose  descendant,  Lord  Torphichen,  is  the  present  pro- 
prietor. The  large  parish  of  Calder-Comitis  was,  by  the 
presbytery  of  Linlithgow,  divided,  in  1645,  into  the  two 
parishes  designated  Mid  and  West  Calder.  Mid-Calder 
is  about  seven  miles  in  length,  and  from  two  to  three  miles 
in  breadth,  comprising  12,339  acres,  of  which  about  200 
are  woodland  and  plantations,  and  of  the  remainder, 
about  one-third  is  arable,  and  two-thirds  are  meadow  and 
pasture.  The  surface  is  generally  an  extensive  plain, 
bounded  on  the  south  by  a  ridge  called  the  Cairn  Hills, 
forming  a  continuation  of  the  Pentland  range,  and  of 
which  the  highest  has  an  elevation  of  about  1S00  feet 
above  the  sea,  commanding  an  unbounded  view  of  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  with  the  adjacent  country  towards  Stir- 
ling, the  coast  of  Fife,  and  the  Ochils.  The  principal 
streams  are,  the  river  Almond,  and  the  Murieston  and 
Linhouse  waters,  which  two  latter  unite  their  streams, 
and  flow  into  the  Almond  a  little  to  the  north  of  the 
village.  The  scenery  is  pleasingly  varied,  and  enriched 
with  wood  ;  the  ancient  forest  of  Calder  has  been  greatly 
diminished,  in  the  progress  of  cultivation,  but  there  are 
still  considerable  remains  of  stately  timber,  and  also 
extensive  modern  plantations,  consisting  of  common 
and  spruce  firs,  larch,  oak,  ash,  beech,  and  elm. 

The  soil,  along  the  banks  of  the  river  and  its  tribu- 
tary streams,  is  a  rich,  dry,  and  fertile  loam,  and,  in 


C  A  L  D 


C  ALD 


some  parts,  clay,  which  has  been  greatly  improved  by 
draining  and  the  use  of  lime.  The  arable  lands  produce 
favourable  crops  of  grain  ;  but  the  principal  reliance  of 
the  farmers  is  on  the  dairies,  which  are  well  managed; 
and  on  many  of  the  farms,  a  considerable  number  of 
sheep  are  pastured.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £7667.  The  substrata  are  chiefly  freestone, 
limestone,  and  vvhinstone,  all  of  which  have  been  exten- 
sively wrought. :  a  quarry  of  limestone  has  long  been  in 
operation,  on  the  lands  of  Easter  Murieston.  In  Calder 
Wood,  is  a  quarry  of  freestone,  excellent  for  every  kind 
of  building  ;  there  are  quarries  of  freestone  underneath 
the  Cairn  hills.  Ironstone  is  found  in  the  beds  of  the 
rivers,  but  not  in  sufficient  quantity  to  remunerate  the 
labour  of  working  it.  Lead-ore  has  been  discovered  on 
several  parts  of  the  Harburn  estate,  but  has  not  been 
wrought ;  and  seams  of  coal  have  been  met  with,  in  the 
upper  districts  of  the  parish,  one  of  which  is  nearly 
four  feet  in  thickness.  Calder  House,  the  seat  of  Lord 
Torphichen,  is  a  spacious  and  elegant  mansion,  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Murieston  water,  near 
its  confluence  with  the  river  Almond,  in  an  ample  de- 
mesne, richly  embellished  with  stately  timber.  In  the 
more  ancient  part  of  the  structure,  the  walls  are  seven 
feet  in  thickness,  and  in  the  old  hall,  now  the  drawing- 
room,  John  Knox,  for  the  first  time  after  the  Reforma- 
tion, publicly  administered  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's 
Supper,  according  to  the  Protestant  form  ;  in  this  room 
are  portraits  of  the  Reformer,  and  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots. 
In  the  centre  of  the  kitchen,  is  a  deep  draw-well,  from 
which  is  a  subterraneous  passage  to  the  village.  Muries- 
ton Castle,  another  seat,  has  been  repaired  and  partly 
rebuilt  by  the  proprietor ;  and  the  ancient  mansion  of 
Linhouse,  now  Burnbrae,  is  an  embattled  structure,  with 
towers  in  good  preservation.  The  village  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  road  from  Edinburgh  to  Glasgow,  on  an 
eminence  between  the  Almond  and  the  Linhouse  water, 
and  under  the  shelter  of  Calder  Wood.  There  are  two 
paper-mills  ;  and  fairs  are  held  on  the  second  Tuesday 
in  March,  and  the  Friday  after  the  second  Tuesday  in 
October,  for  the  sale  of  cattle  and  horses,  and  for  hiring 
farm  servants. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  the  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  and  pres- 
bytery of  Linlithgow.  The  minister's  stipend,  includ- 
ing £S.  6.  S.  for  communion  elements,  is  £158.  6.  8.,  of 
which  £SS.  17.  10.  are  paid  by  the  exchequer,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  of  forty-three  acres,  valued  at  £64 
per  annum  ;  patron,  Lord  Torphichen.  The  church,  an 
ancient  structure  in  the  early  English  style,  contains  438 
sittings.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  Seceders.  The 
parochial  school  is  well  attended ;  the  master  has  a  sa- 
lary of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees,  &c., 
average  £65  ;  he  also  receives  the  proceeds  of  a  bequest 
for  teaching  music,  amounting  to  £11.  The  ancient 
castle  of  Cairns,  of  which  there  are  some  remains,  con- 
sisting of  a  tower,  is  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by 
Sir  William  Crichton,  lord  high-admiral  of  Scotland,  in 
1440.  In  the  south-west  part  of  the  parish,  on  the 
summit  of  an  eminence  called  Castle  Grey,  are  tolerably 
perfect  remains  of  a  Roman  camp,  in  which  various 
Roman  coins  have  been  found.  There  are  also  nume- 
rous tumuli  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Almond,  and  ar- 
tificial mounds,  of  which  four,  on  its  south  bank,  point 
out  the  field  of  a  battle  between  the  Picts  and  Scots. 
167 


CALDER,  WEST,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Edin- 
burgh, 16|  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Edinburgh  ;  con- 
taining 1666  inhabitants,  of  whom  434  are  in  the  village. 
This  parish  is  of  triangular  form,  in  the  south-western 
extremity  of  the  county,  and  bounded  on  the  north- 
west by  Linlithgowshire,  from  which  it  is  separated  by 
the  Breich  water,  a  stream  tributary  to  the  river  Almond  ; 
on  the  north-east,  by  the  parish  of  Mid  Calder  ;  and  on 
the  south,  by  Lanarkshire.  It  is  about  ten  miles  in 
length,  and  five  and  a  half  in  average  breadth,  com- 
prising about  20,000  acres  ;  the  surface  bordering  on 
Lanark,  is  elevated  and  hilly,  attaining  a  height  of  7 00 
feet  above  the  sea,  and,  though  greatly  improved  by 
recent  plantations,  has  still  a  bleak  and  cold  appearance. 
The  soil  is  chiefly  a  black  mossy  earth,  naturally  moist, 
lying  on  a  till  bottom  ;  and  there  are  some  extensive 
tracts  of  moor,  interspersed  with  arable  land  of  moderate 
fertility.  The  system  of  agriculture  has,  of  late,  been 
much  improved,  and  the  soil,  which  in  many  parts  is 
very  wet,  has  been  rendered  much  more  productive  by 
draining.  The  crops  raised  here  are,  oats,  wheat,  barley, 
flax,  peas,  turnips,  and  potatoes.  The  hills  afford  good 
pasture  for  sheep  and  cattle,  of  which  large  numbers 
are  reared ;  of  late,  great  attention  has  been  paid  to  the 
management  of  dairy-farms,  and  excellent  butter  and 
cheese  are  sent  to  the  Edinburgh  market.  The  farms 
are  generally  of  moderate  extent  ;  and  most  of  those 
which  are  chiefly  arable,  contain  a  considerable  portion 
of  moorland.  The  plantations,  principally  of  fir,  and 
which  were  formerly  confined  to  the  lands  around  the 
houses  of  the  proprietors,  have  been  much  extended  ; 
indeed,  a  general  improvement  in  the  appearance  of  the 
district  has  recently  taken  place.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £7090. 

The  chief  substrata  are  limestone  and  coal,  of  which 
the  former  is  generally  more  adapted  for  building  pur- 
poses than  for  manure ;  a  seam  for  burning  into  lime  is 
wrought  on  the  estate  of  Handexwood,  and  is  of  a  good 
kind.  Coal  is  worked  in  various  places  within  the 
limits  of  the  parish ;  ironstone  has,  for  many  years, 
been  wrought  at  Handexwood,  by  the  Wilsontown  Iron 
Company,  and,  for  the  last  three  or  four  years,  on  the 
estate  of  Muldren,  by  the  Shotts  Company,  though  not 
to  any  very  great  extent.  The  principal  houses  are, 
Hermand,  erected  by  the  late  Lord  Hermand,  in  1797  ; 
Limefield  and  Harburn,  in  1804 ;  and  Hartwood,  in 
1S07.  The  high  road  from  Edinburgh  to  Ayr  passes 
through  the  parish.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  jurisdiction  of  the  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale 
and  the  presbytery  of  Linlithgow  ;  patron,  John  Drys- 
dale,  Esq.  The  minister's  stipend,  by  augmentation 
from  government,  is  £158.  6.  8.,  of  which  above  two- 
thirds  are  received  from  the  exchequer ;  the  manse, 
rebuilt  in  1S37,  is  a  handsome  residence,  and  the  glebe 
comprises  24  acres,  valued  at  £24  per  annum.  The 
church  was  built  in  1643;  in  1844  a  place  of  worship 
in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church  was  erected,  and 
there  is  a  meeting-house  for  the  United  Secession.  The 
parochial  school  is  attended  by  about  85  children ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  an  excellent  house 
and  a  good  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £16. 
On  the  lands  of  Harburn,  at  the  south-eastern  extremity 
of  the  parish,  are  vestiges  of  an  ancient  castle,  said  to 
have  been  fortified  by  Oliver  Cromwell,  to  check  the 
depredations  committed  by  the  moss-troopers;  and  on 


CALL 


CALT 


the  summit  of  a  hill  colled  Castle  Craig,  are  the  remains 
of  a  Roman  camp  of  small  extent,  near  which  several 
Roman  coins  have  been  found. 

CALF,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Kilninian  and 
Kilmore,  district  of  Mull,  county  of  Argyll.  This 
island,  which  is  of  extremely  small  extent,  lies  off  Tober- 
mory, in  the  north-eastern  part  of  the  parish,  and  is  in 
that  portion  of  the  Sound  of  Mull  which  borders  on 
Loch  Sunart ;  its  length  is  about  three  times  as  great 
as  its  breadth,  and  it  stretches  in  a  direction  parallel  to 
the  coast  of  the  main  land. 

CALLANDER,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth  ; 
containing,  with  the  village  of  Kilmahog,  1665  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  1107  are  in  the  village  of  Callander, 
6  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Port  of  Monteith.  This  place  de- 
rives its  name,  of  Gaelic  origin,  from  an  ancient  ferry 
across  the  river  Teath,  the  principal  road  to  which  lay 
within  its  limits.  The  parish  is  about  eighteen  miles  in 
length,  and  varies  greatly  in  breadth,  being  in  some 
parts  scarcely  a  mile,  and  in  others  nearly  ten  miles.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  north  and  north-west  by  a  branch  of 
the  Grampians  ;  and  the  scenery  is  boldly  varied  by 
hills  and  mountains,  of  which  the  most  prominent  is 
Ben-Ledi,  which  has  an  elevation  of  2863  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  forms  a  boundary  of  the  valley  that  contains 
the  village.  A  hill  near  the  village  forms  also  a  very 
interesting  feature  in  the  landscape,  being  richly  clothed 
with  flourishing  plantations,  formed  some  years  since, 
by  Lady  Willoughby  de  Eresby ;  the  hill  called  the 
Crag  of  Callander  bounds  the  vale  on  the  north,  and  in 
the  vicinity  flows  the  Teath,  adding,  with  its  lofty 
wooded  banks,  materially  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery. 
This  river  is  formed  by  the  union  of  two  streams  which 
issue,  respectively,  from  the  north  and  south  sides  of 
Ben-Ledi ;  and  over  it  is  a  bridge,  at  the  village,  from 
which  the  view  in  every  direction  is  strikingly  pictu- 
resque. Another  river,  named  the  Keltie,  forms  a 
boundary  to  the  parish,  on  the  eastern  side,  and,  after  a 
devious  course,  falls  into  the  Teath ;  across  it,  is  a 
bridge  at  Brackland,  which  is  an  object  of  great  interest, 
and  much  admired.  There  are  also  various  lakes,  some 
of  which  are  caused  by  the  natural  obstructions  that  the 
rivers  find  in  their  course  ;  Loch  Venachoir,  on  the 
south  of  Ben-Ledi,  is  about  four  miles  in  length,  and 
connected  with  it  are  the  lakes  of  Auchray  and  Katrine, 
both  rich  in  picturesque  beauty,  and  described  in  the 
article  on  Aberfoyle,  an  adjoining  parish. 

The  lakes,  as  also  the  rivers,  abound  with  trout  and 
other  fish,  among  which  are,  eels,  pike,  perch,  char,  and 
salmon  ;  and  the  former  are  frequented  by  different 
kinds  of  aquatic  fowl.  The  parish  is  well  wooded,  and 
extensive  plantations  have  been  formed ;  the  timber  is 
principally  oak,  ash,  alder,  birch,  larch,  hazel,  and  wil- 
low; the  oak  is  much  cultivated,  and  a  considerable 
quantity  of  bark  is  sold  to  the  tanners.  The  soil  varies 
greatly ;  little  more,  even  of  the  low  lands,  is  cultivated 
than  is  sufficient  for  the  supply  of  the  inhabitants,  who 
are  chiefly  attentive  to  the  rearing  of  cattle  and  sheep, 
for  which  the  hills  and  vales  afford  excellent  pasturage. 
The  system  of  agriculture,  as  far  as  it  is  practised  upon 
the  few  arable  farms  in  the  parish,  is  improved  ;  and 
the  crops  are,  oats  of  various  kinds,  barley,  potatoes, 
and  turnips.  The  breed  of  black-cattle  is  much  attended 
to  ;  the  Cheviot  and  Leicestershire  breeds  of  sheep  are 
pastured  on  the  low  lands,  and  the  black-faced  on 
168 


the  hills.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£7200.  The  substrata  are,  limestone,  slate,  freestone, 
and  pudding-stone  ;  the  limestone  is  of  good  quality, 
and  is  worked,  not  only  for  the  supply  of  this  parish, 
but  for  many  others,  and  considerable  quantities  of  lime 
are  sent  to  distant  parts.  The  slate  is  of  a  brownish 
colour,  and  was  formerly  quarried  on  several  lands;  the 
freestone,  which  is  grey,  is  very  excellent,  and  exten- 
sively quarried  for  building.  The  proprietor  of  Gart 
has  erected  a  spacious  and  handsome  residence  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Teath ;  the  grounds  are  tastefully 
embellished,  and  command  some  highly  interesting 
views. 

The  village,  which  is  on  the  great  road  from  Stirling 
to  the  Western  Highlands,  consists  chiefly  of  one  spa- 
cious street  ;  the  houses  are  well  built  of  stone,  and 
roofed  with  slate,  and  the  inhabitants  are  amply  sup- 
plied with  water,  which  is  conveyed  by  leaden  pipes. 
There  is  a  subscription  library.  A  considerable  trade  is 
carried  on,  and  great  quantities  of  wool  are  sent  to 
Bannockburn,  Glasgow,  and  Liverpool,  for  the  use  of 
carpet  manufacturers.  A  daily  post  has  been  esta- 
blished under  Stirling.  A  market  is  still  held  ;  and 
fairs  occur  in  March  and  May,  for  black  cattle,  sheep, 
and  horses,  and  some  smaller  fairs  for  lambs,  hiring  of 
farm  servants,  and  other  business.  There  is  also  a 
spacious  inn,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  numerous 
parties  who  frequent  this  place,  to  view  the  many  inter- 
esting spots  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  parish  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Dunblane  and  synod  of  Perth  and 
Stirling;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £197-  14.  11.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £38  per  annum  ;  patron, 
the  Crown.  The  church,  a  neat  edifice,  with  a  tower 
and  spire,  was  erected  in  1773,  and  is  adapted  for  a 
congregation  of  800  persons.  A  place  of  worship  has 
been  erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church.  The 
parochial  school  affords  a  liberal  education ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £36  fees,  and  a  house  and 
garden.  About  a  mile  from  the  village  is  a  hill  rising 
perpendicularly  300  feet,  and  having,  on  the  summit, 
the  remains  of  an  ancient  fortification,  from  which  the 
height  takes  the  name  of  "  Dun-bo-chaistil ;"  the  gate- 
way, and  several  traces  of  ditches  and  mounds,  are  dis- 
tinctly visible,  and  within  the  inclosure  is  a  well,  which 
has  been  filled  in,  to  prevent  accidents  to  the  cattle  that 
feed  there.  In  the  plain  immediately  around  it,  is  a 
mound  of  earth,  strengthened  with  stones,  which  may 
probably  have  been  an  outpost ;  but  the  history  of  this 
relic  of  ancient  times  is  not  known.  Near  the  manse, 
are  the  remains  of  Callander  Castle,  once  a  building 
of  great  strength  ;  and  on  the  lands  of  Auchinlaich,  are 
those  of  an  ancient  fort,  in  good  preservation,  and 
nearly  entire.  There  is  a  circular  mount  of  considerable 
height,  near  the  churchyard,  called  the  Hill  of  St. 
Kessaig ;  and  a  fair  is  held  there  annually  in  March, 
called  the  festival  of  St.  Kessaig.  About  half  a  mile 
to  the  west  of  it,  is  a  similar  tumulus,  called  Little 
Leney,  where  was  anciently  a  chapel. 

CALTON,  a  manufacturing  district  and  late  a  quoad 
sacra  parish,  in  the  parish  of  Barony,  county  of  La- 
nark ;  included  within  the  parliamentary  boundary  of 
Glasgow,  and  comprising  Old  and  New  Calton.  These 
villages,  formerly  part  of  the  barony  of  Barrowfield, 
were,  by  royal  charter,  in  1817,  erected  into  a  burgh  of 
barony,   containing    about   fifty-three    acres,    of  which 


CAMB 


C  AM  B 


twelve  are  attached  to  Old,  and  forty-two  to  New  Cal- 
ton  ;  the  houses  are  neatly  built  of  brick,  and  roofed 
with  tiles,  for  the  manufacture  of  which  clay  of  good 
quality  abounds  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  the 
streets,  especially  those  of  the  latter  village,  are  regu- 
larly formed.  A  handsome  mechanics'  institution  has 
been  erected.  The  population  is  chiefly  employed  in  the 
cotton  manufacture,  and  in  hand-loom  weaving,  which 
are  carried  on  to  a  very  considerable  extent ;  the  manu- 
facture of  thread  affords  employment  to  several  hun- 
dreds of  men  and  women,  and  there  are  numerous  shops 
for  the  supply  of  the  inhabitants  with  groceries  and 
other  articles  of  merchandise.  The  government  of  the 
burgh  is  vested  in  a  provost,  three  bailies,  a  treasurer, 
and  eleven  councillors,  of  whom  one  acts  as  dean  of 
guild  ;  they  are  all  elected  annually,  with  the  exception 
of  the  elder  bailie,  who  holds  his  office  for  two  years  ; 
the  provost  is  chosen  by  the  burgesses  generally,  as  are 
likewise  the  bailies  and  the  treasurer.  The  burgesses 
have  no  exclusive  privileges,  nor  can  any  inhabitant  be 
compelled  to  be  a  burgess  ;  those  who  choose  to  become 
burgesses  pay  a  fee  of  £2.  2.  on  admission.  The  ma- 
gistrates and  council  have  the  privilege  of  a  weekly 
market,  which  is  held  on  Saturday,  and  of  which  they 
receive  the  tolls  and  customs.  Their  jurisdiction  ex- 
tends, in  civil  cases,  over  the  territory  of  the  burgh, 
and,  in  criminal  cases,  over  the  whole  of  the  police  dis- 
trict ;  they  hold  a  court  for  the  recovery  of  debts  not 
exceeding  40s.,  and  a  police  court,  in  which  a  town- 
clerk,  appointed  by  the  superior  of  the  burgh,  acts  as 
assessor.  The  number  of  £10  householders  is  264, 
of  whom  thirty-two  are  resident  burgesses.  The  late 
quoad  sacra  parish  of  Middle  Calton,  containing  7185 
inhabitants,  and  comprised  within  the  presbytery  of 
Glasgow  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  was  formed 
in  1834;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £250:  the  church, 
built  in  1793,  as  a  chapel  of  ease,  at  an  expense  of 
£1495,  and  since  repaired  and  enlarged,  is  a  neat  struc- 
ture, and  contains  1400  sittings.  There  are  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Relief  Church,  and  Wes- 
leyans  ;  a  burgh  school,  in  which  are  140  children,  is 
taught  by  a  master  who  has  a  house  rent-free,  and  £10, 
in  addition  to  the  fees,  and  there  are  numerous  other 
schools. 

CAMBUS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Alloa,  county 
of  Clackmannan,  2  miles  (VV.)  from  Alloa;  containing 
2S7  inhabitants.  This  village,  which  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  the  west  bank  of  the  river  Devon,  is  inhabited 
chiefly  by  persons  who  are  employed  in  an  extensive 
distillery,  which  is  minutely  described  in  the  article  on 
Alloa.  A  small  fishery  for  salmon,  in  the  Devon,  is 
carried  on  with  considerable  success  ;  it  is  the  property 
of  Lord  Abercromby,  under  whom  it  is  held  on  lease,  at 
£20  per  annum.  Michael  Stirling,  who  lived  in  the 
village,  invented  the  threshing-mill,  upon  which  many 
improvements  have  been  subsequently  made. 

CAMBUS,  OLD. — See  Cockburnspath. 

CAMBUSBARRON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  St. 
Ninian's,  county  of  Stirling,  1^  mile  (S.  W.)  from 
Stirling  ;  containing  676  inhabitants,  who  are  chiefly 
engaged  in  wool-spinning,  and  in  the  manufacture  of 
tartans  and  shawls.  A  small  school  here  has  an  endow- 
ment of  £10  per  annum,  arising  from  a  bequest. 

CAMBUSKENNETH,  or  ABBEY,  a  village,  in  the 
parish  of  Stirling,  but  locally  in  the  county  of  Clack- 
Vol.  I.— 169 


mannan,  1  mile  (E.)  from  Stirling ;  containing  227  in- 
habitants. This  place,  which  is  situated  on  a  peninsula 
formed  by  the  winding  of  the  river  Forth,  takes  its 
name,  signifying  "  the  field  of  Kenneth,"  from  some 
ancient  event  not  distinctly  recorded,  in  which  one  of 
the  Scottish  kings  of  that  name  is  supposed  to  have 
been  concerned.  A  monastery  for  canons  regular  of 
the  order  of  St.  Augustine,  was  founded  here  in  i  147, 
by  David  I.,  who  richly  endowed  it  with  lands  in  vari- 
ous parts  of  the  kingdom  ;  and  the  endowment  was 
augmented  by  many  of  his  successors.  This  establish- 
ment, of  which  the  abbots  were  frequently  styled  abbots 
of  Stirling,  continued  to  increase  in  importance  ;  it  was 
the  place  of  interment  of  James  III.  and  his  queen,  and 
the  scene  of  many  transactions  connected  with  Scottish 
history.  The  buildings  were  extensive  and  magnificent ; 
but,  soon  after  the  Reformation,  they  were  demolished 
by  the  lords  of  the  congregation,  who  had  taken  posses- 
sion of  Stirling  ;  and  of  the  once  splendid  structure, 
only  one  solitary  tower  is  remaining.  The  church  was 
dedicated  to  St.  Mary,  from  which  circumstance,  the 
street  leading  to  it  from  the  town  of  Stirling  was  called 
St.  Mary's  Wynd.  On  the  dissolution  of  the  monastery, 
the  lands  were  granted  to  the  Earl  of  Mar,  with  whose 
descendants  they  remained  till  the  year  1737,  when  they 
were  purchased  by  the  corporation  of  Stirling,  on  behalf 
of  Cowan's  hospital.  The  village  is  chiefly  inhabited  by 
persons  employed  in  agriculture,  and  in  the  woollen 
manufactures  in  the  vicinity  ;  there  is  a  ferry  here  over 
the  river  Forth  ;   and  a  school  is  supported. 

CAMBUSLANG,  a  parish,  in  the  Middle  ward  of 
the  county  of  Lanark,  4§  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from  Glas- 
gow ;  including  the  villages  of  Bushybill,  Chapelton, 
East  and  West  Cotes,  Cullochburn,  Howieshill,  Kirkhill, 
Lightbum,  Sauchiebog,  Silverbanks,  and  Yicarland  ; 
and  containing  3022  inhabitants.  This  place  is  sup- 
posed to  have  derived  its  name  from  its  situation 
on  the  banks  of  the  Clyde,  which  in  this  part  of  its 
course,  winding  round  the  northern  part  of  the  parish, 
separates  it  from  Old  Monkland.  The  barony  in  which 
the  greater  portion  is  included,  and  which  was  an- 
ciently called  Drumsargart,  belonged,  in  the  reign  of 
Alexander  II.,  to  Walter  Olifard,  justiciary  of  Lothian, 
and  subsequently  became  the  property  of  the  Morays, 
of  Bothwell.  The  castle  and  barony  afterwards  passed 
into  the  possession  of  the  Earl  of  Douglas,  who  had 
married  the  daughter  of  Sir  Thomas  Moray,  and  re- 
mained in  that  family  till  1452,  when  it  was  transferred 
to  James,  Lord  Hamilton,  in  the  possession  of  whose 
descendants  it  still  continues,  though  its  name  was, 
during  the  17th  century,  changed  from  Drumsargart 
to  Cambuslang,  the  name  of  the  parish.  There  are 
no  other  remains  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Drumsargart, 
than  the  mere  site,  from  which  it  is  supposed  to  have 
derived  its  name,  significant  of  its  situation  on  a  cir- 
cular mount,  at  the  extremity  of  a  long  ridge  of  ground 
about  thirty  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  surrounding 
plain.  The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the 
river  Calder,  which  is  a  tributary  of  the  Clyde  ;  and 
comprises  3507  acres,  all  arable  and  pasture  land,  with  the 
exception  of  about  200  in  plantations,  roads,  and  waste. 
The  surface,  though  generally  level,  is  varied  with 
rising  grounds  and  ridges,  of  which  the  principal  are 
Turnlaw  and  Dechmont,  in  the  south- west ;  the  latter, 
having   an   elevation  of  600   feet   above  the  sea,  com- 


C  A  M  B 


C  A  MB 


mands  an  extensive  prospect,  comprehending  the  Tweed- 
dale  and  Pentland  hills,  Ben-Lomond,  and  several  of 
the  hills  of  Covval  and  Breadalbane.  The  adjacent 
scenery  is  beautifully  picturesque,  embracing  the  wind- 
ings of  the  Clyde,  in  its  course  from  Lanark  to  Dum- 
barton, with  its  richly-wooded  banks,  interspersed 
with  villages  and  gentlemen's  seats,  the  plantations  of 
Hamilton,  the  romantic  ruins  of  Bothwell  Castle,  and 
the  cathedral  and  city  of  Glasgow,  which  are  here  seen 
with  peculiar  and  striking  effect.  The  Clyde  is  about 
250  feet  in  breadth  ;  and  the  Calder,  of  which  the  banks 
are  ornamented  with  pleasing  villas,  and  finely  wooded, 
is  about  forty  feet  wide. 

The  soil  is  generally  good,  and,  in  the  low  lands  near 
the  Clyde,  extremely  rich  and  fertile.  The  principal 
crops  are  oats  and  wheat,  of  which  latter  the  culti- 
vation has  been,  for  sometime,  progressively  increasing, 
under  an  improved  system  of  agriculture  ;  peas,  beans, 
and  potatoes  are  also  raised  in  considerable  quantities, 
and  a  small  proportion  of  barley.  There  are  several 
large  dairy-farms,  the  produce  of  which  is  chiefly 
butter,  of  excellent  quality,  sent  to  the  Glasgow  mar- 
ket, where  it  finds  a  ready  sale ;  the  cows  are  the 
Ayrshire.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £11,555.  The  substratum  is  mainly  argillaceous 
freestone,  lime  and  ironstone,  and  coal,  all  of  which 
are  wrought,  affording  employment  to  many  of  the 
population.  The  freestone  is  of  good  quality,  and  much 
esteemed  for  ornamental  building  ;  and  the  limestone, 
which  is  peculiarly  compact,  and  susceptible  of  a  high 
polish,  is,  under  the  appellation  of  Cambuslang  marble, 
wrought  into  mantel-pieces  of  great  beauty.  The 
ironstone  is  found  in  several  places,  but  is  worked 
only  to  a  very  limited  extent.  The  coal  lies  at  various 
depths,  and  in  some  few  places  rises  nearly  to  the  sur- 
face ;  the  field  in  which  it  is  found  forms  part  of 
the  coal  district  of  the  Clyde,  and  the  seams  vary 
from  three  to  five  feet  in  thickness ;  the  mines  in 
this  parish  are  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Hamilton, 
and  are  partly  held  on  lease.  The  weaving  of  muslin  for 
the  Glasgow  manufacturers,  formerly  carried  on  to  a 
much  greater  extent,  at  present  affords  employment 
to  about  500  persons ;  and  there  are  corn-mills  on 
the  Clyde  and  Calder.  The  principal  seats  are,  Newton, 
a  handsome  modern  mansion;  Calder  Grove,  also 
recently  erected  ;  and  Gilbertfield,  an  ancient  turreted 
edifice.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton 
and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  patron,  the  Duke  of 
Hamilton;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £2S1.  11.  11., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £10  per  annum. 
The  church,  erected  in  1743,  a  plain  building,  being- 
much  dilapidated,  has  been  rebuilt  on  a  larger  scale, 
for  a  congregation  of  1000  persons;  it  is  a  handsome 
structure  in  the  Norman  style,  with  a  lofty  spire. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Con- 
gregational Union,  and  the  United  Secession  Church. 
The  parochial  school  affords  education  to  nearly  100 
pupils :  the  salary  of  the  master  is  £34,  with  £40 
fees,  and  a  good  house  and  garden.  On  the  summit 
of  Dechmont  Hill,  the  foundations  of  ancient  buildings 
have  been  discovered ;  and  within  the  last  fifty  years, 
considerable  remains  existed,  but  they  have  been  re- 
moved, for  the  sake  of  the  materials,  which  have  been 
employed  in  repairing  the  roads,  and  for  other  pur- 
poses. Among  them  were  the  remains  of  a  circular 
170 


building,  about  24  feet  in  diameter,  of  which  the 
site  is  supposed  to  have  been  occupied  anciently  as 
a  signal  station,  and  is  a  place  of  security  in  case  of 
irruption  from  an  enemy.  At  Kirkburn,  was  formerly 
a  chapel  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  which  appears 
to  have  subsisted  till  the.  Reformation ;  but  the  only 
memorial  preserved  of  the  building,  is  the  name  of 
the  land  on  which  it  stood,  still  called  Chapelton. 
Spittal  Hill  was  the  site  of  an  hospital  which  has  long 
since  disappeared.  Dr.  Claudius  Buchanan,  author  of 
Researches  in  India,  was  a  native  of  the  parish. 

CAMBUSNETHAN,  a  parish,  in  the  Middle  ward 
of  the  county  of  Lanark;  including  the  villages  of 
Bonkle,  Stane,  and  Stewarton  and  Wishawton  ;  the  whole 
containing  5796  inhabitants,  of  whom  485  are  in  the 
village  of  Cambusnethan-Kirk,  4|  miles  (N.  W.)  from 
Carluke.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  Gaelic  word 
Camus,  signifying  a  "bay"  or  "curve,"  applicable  to  the 
remarkable  windings  of  the  river  Clyde ;  and  from 
Nethan,  the  name  of  the  celebrated  saint  whom  Archbi- 
shop Usher  styles  "  religiosissimus  et  doctissimus  Nethan," 
and  to  whom  the  church  was  dedicated.  The  history 
of  the  place  is  chiefly  connected  with  the  families  of 
Stewart,  Sommerville,  Hamilton,  and  Lockhart,  all  of 
whom  have  been  long  located  here,  as  large  landed  pro- 
prietors ;  the  most  remote  occupation  of  the  soil,  how- 
ever, of  which  we  have  any  account,  was  by  a  family  of 
the  name  of  Baird,  to  whom  the  valuable  barony  of 
Cambusnethan  belonged,  at  a  very  early  period.  The 
parish  is  about  twelve  miles  long,  from  east  to  west,  and 
a  little  more  than  four  miles  broad,  and  contains  26,000 
acres.  The  surface  is  tolerably  level  in  the  western  ex- 
tremity, near  the  banks  of  the  Clyde,  but  gradually 
rises  eastward  to  about  120  feet,  forming  a  tract  about  a 
mile  in  breadth,  consisting  of  a  rich  and  fertile  soil, 
which  is  well  cultivated,  and  celebrated  for  the  number 
and  quality  of  its  hares.  Another  acclivity  succeeds 
this,  rising  to  a  height  of  about  250  feet,  the  larger 
part  of  which  is  covered  with  orchards ;  and  still 
further  to  the  east,  the  lands,  in  many  parts,  rise  to  an 
elevation  of  900  feet,  and  command  some  very  exten- 
sive views  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  castle  of 
Edinburgh,  Loudon-hill,  Dumbarton  Castle,  and  the 
hills  of  Argyllshire  may  be  distinctly  seen  from  Know- 
nowton  ;  and  from  the  church,  the  prospect  embraces 
the  cathedral  of  Glasgow,  with  at  least  fifteen  country 
churches.  Besides  the  Clyde,  there  are  several  streams 
running  through  the  parish  and  upon  its  boundaries, 
the  peculiar  character  and  flexures  of  which  greatly 
improve  its  interesting  scenery.  The  South  Calder, 
rising  in  Linlithgowshire,  forms  about  nine  miles  of  the 
boundary  line  between  this  parish  and  Shotts  ;  and  for 
some  miles  before  its  approach  to  the  Clyde,  into  which 
it  falls,  its  banks  are  steep,  exhibiting  specimens  of 
highly  ornamental  scenery,  and  adorned  with  several 
beautiful  varieties  of  wood  and  garden.  The  Water  of 
Auchter,  which  rises  in  the  parish  of  Carluke,  after  flow- 
ing for  more  than  a  mile,  on  the  boundary  of  that  parish 
and  Cambusnethan,  enters  the  latter,  and,  passing  for 
about  three  miles  in  a  meandering  route,  falls  into  the 
South  Calder  at  Bridgend.  Of  these  rivers,  the  Clyde 
is  said  to  contain  twelve  different  species  of  fish  ;  the 
chief  is  the  salmon,  which  latterly  has  been  abundant. 

The  prevailing  soil  is  clayey,  resting  upon  a  stiff  and 
tenacious  subsoil  of  till ;  in  the  more  elevated  parts,  it 


C  A  M  B 


CAME 


is  much  mixed  with  gravel  and  dark  sand,  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Clyde,  the  haughs  are  a  moist  alluvial 
compost,  yielding,  when  well  cultivated,  fine  crops. 
About  10,000  acres  are  cultivated,  or  occasionally  in 
tillage;  about  6000  are  in  woods,  roads,  quarries,  &c. ; 
160  acres  in  orchards,  and  a  very  considerable  quantity 
waste.  Good  grain  of  all  kinds  is  raised,  and  fruit 
forms  a  prominent  article  in  the  produce  ;  numerous 
improvements  have  been  made  in  agriculture  within  the 
last  few  years,  especially  in  draining,  which  is  required 
to  a  large  extent,  on  account  of  the  wet  clayey  nature 
of  the  soil.  Thriving  hedges  and  plantations  have  also 
been  raised  in  many  parts ;  and  dells  and  ravines,  for- 
merly the  beds  of  broom,  furze,  and  heath,  have  been 
planted  with  larch,  or  formed  into  orchards.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £32,016.  The  sub- 
terraneous productions  are  chiefly  iron-stone  and  coal, 
which  may  be  procured  in  very  large  quantities  ;  the 
district  is  included  in  the  great  coal-field  of  Lanarkshire, 
and  the  coal  is  extensively  wrought.  In  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Headlecross,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish, 
and  on  the  grounds  of  Coltness  and  Allanton,  the  black- 
band  iron-stone  is  found  of  superior  quality,  and,  in 
various  places,  good  sandstone  is  met  with  ;  in  several 
directions,  also,  plentiful  supplies  are  obtained  of  ex- 
cellent clay,  about  ten  feet  in  thickness,  and  used  for 
the  manufacture  of  drain  and  roof  tiles. 

Among  the  principal  seats  is  Cambusnethun  House,  an 
elegant  structure  on  the  model  of  a  priory,  erected  about 
twenty  years  ago,  upon  the  site  of  a  mansion  which 
had  been  accidentally  destroyed  by  fire  ;  it  stands  in  a 
romantic  situation,  and  the  grounds  have  been  much 
improved,  within  the  last  few  years,  especially  the 
orchards.  IVishaw  House,  in  the  north-west  corner  of 
the  parish,  upon  the  bank  of  the  Calder,  is  an  exten- 
sive structure  in  the  castellated  style ;  the  front  is 
noble  and  commanding,  varied  by  a  number  of  different- 
sized  and  well-proportioned  towers.  The  apartments 
are  enriched  by  several  portraits,  among  which  are,  one 
of  John,  Lord  Belhaven,  who  so  zealously  opposed  the 
Union  ;  and  a  very  costly  portrait,  by  Vandyke,  of  Sir 
James  Balfour,  Lord  Lyon,  king-of-arms  in  the  reign  of 
Charles  I.  The  House  of  Coltness  is  an  elegant  and  com- 
modious building,  between  the  dining  and  drawing 
room  of  which,  runs  a  gallery  nearly  200  feet  long, 
hung  round  with  ancient  portraits  of  the  family  of 
Stewart  ;  it  stands  in  the  midst  of  very  extensive  and 
well  laid-out  grounds.  Allanton  House  is  a  majestic 
structure,  wrought  up,  by  various  additions  and  im- 
provements, from  the  old  castle  of  Allanton  ;  it  is 
ornamented  with  an  artificial  lake  of  large  dimensions, 
and  containing  several  islands,  so  covered  with  wood 
that,  from  no  part  of  it,  is  its  extent  capable  of  being 
seen.  Muirhouse  is  also  an  old  structure,  in  a  com- 
manding situation. 

The  population  are  employed  partly  in  manufactures  ; 
two  tile- works  are  in  operation  upon  the  estate  of 
Wishaw,  and  one  at  Coltness.  The  Shotts  iron-works, 
on  the  borders  of  the  parish,  have  caused  an  increase 
of  population,  to  the  amount  of  about  2000,  one-third 
of  whom  reside  at  the  village  of  Stane,  and  the  rest  in 
Shotts  ;  and  near  Wishawton,  in  the  westerly  quarter 
of  the  parish,  a  very  extensive  distillery  has  lately  been 
erected,  by  Lord  Belhaven.  A  road  from  Edinburgh  to 
Ayr  traverses  the  parish.  The  monks  of  Kelso  anciently 
171 


held  the  tithes  and  other  ecclesiastical  rights  of  Cam- 
busnethan,  by  grant,  in  the  twelfth  century,  from  Wil- 
liam Finemund,  lord  of  the  manor;  in  the  following 
century  the  church  was  transferred  to  the  bishops  of 
Glasgow,  with  whom  it  continued  till  the  Reformation. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  now  subject  to  the  presby- 
tery of  Hamilton  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr; 
there  is  a  manse,  with  a  glebe  of  four  acres,  and  the 
stipend  is  £278.  15.  1.  ;  patron,  Robert  Lockhart,  Esq. 
The  church  is  a  plain  and  \incomfortable  building, 
erected  in  1640,  in  lieu  of  a  more  ancient  edifice,  part 
of  which  is  still  standing  :  a  third  church,  to  supersede 
the  present,  was  begun  in  June,  1839,  and  is  a  handsome 
edifice  with  a  tower,  but  not  yet  completed  or  opened 
for  public  worship.  There  are  places  of  worship  for 
the  Relief  body,  Reformed  Presbyterians,  and  mem- 
bers of  the  United  Secession;  also  a  parochial  school, 
at  which  are  taught  all  the  usual  branches  of  education, 
the  master  receiving  the  maximum  salary,  and  about 
£20  fees.  Two  subscription  libraries  are  supported,  the 
books  in  which  are  chiefly  historical  and  religious. 

CAMELON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Falkirk, 
county  of  Stirling,  1|  mile  (W.)  from  Falkirk;  con- 
taining 1340  inhabitants.  This  village,  which  is  situ- 
ated on  the  turnpike-road  to  Glasgow,  is  sometimes 
called  New  Camelon,  in  contradistinction  to  the  ancient 
city  of  that  name,  supposed  to  have  been  a  Roman 
station,  and,  at  one  time,  a  very  considerable  sea-port 
town.  The  probability  of  this  supposition  is  corrobo- 
rated by  numerous  vestiges  of  Roman  antiquity,  that 
may  still  be  traced  on  the  line  of  the  Roman  road  lead- 
ing from  the  Wall  of  Antonine  ;  and  by  the  discovery 
of  foundations  of  buildings,  and  the  traces  of  various 
streets,  which,  not  many  years  since,  were  distinctly 
apparent.  There  is  also  sufficient  evidence,  that  the 
river  Carron  was  formerly  navigable  for  vessels,  far 
above  the  site  of  the  ancient  city,  where,  in  1/07,  several 
antique  boats,  and  the  fragment  of  an  anchor,  were 
found  imbedded  in  the  soil ;  and  the  name  of  the  ad- 
jacent district  called  the  Carse,  implying  lands  reclaimed 
from  the  sea,  and  their  slight  elevation  above  the  level 
of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  by  which,  within  the  last  fifty 
years,  they  have  been  inundated,  afford  strong  con- 
firmation of  the  truth  of  that  opinion.  The  inhabitants 
are  partly  employed  in  the  Carron  iron-works,  and  in 
the  manufacture  of  nails,  which  was  originally  intro- 
duced here  by  Mr.  Cadell,  of  Carron  Park,  and  for 
which  there  are  now  two  establishments,  affording  occu- 
pation to  250  persons ;  two  distilleries  are  also  carried  on, 
upon  a  moderate  scale.  A  handsome  church  has  been 
built  by  subscription  near  the  western  extremity  of 
the  village,  on  ground  given  by  Mr.  Forbes,  of  Callander, 
who  also  contributed  largely  towards  the  expense  of  its 
erection;  it  was  opened  on  the  23rd  of  August,  1840, 
and  contains  660  sittings.  A  school,  for  which  an  ap- 
propriate building  has  been  erected,  is  also  supported, 
by  subscription. 

CAMERON,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  St.  An- 
drew's, county  of  Fife,  4  miles  (S.  S.  W.)  from  St. 
Andrew's;  containing  1167  inhabitants.  This  place, 
which  formerly  was  included  in  the  parish  of  St.  An- 
drew's, appears  to  have  derived  its  name  from  the  lands 
on  part  of  which  the  church  was  erected  on  its  sepa- 
ration, by  act  of  parliament,  in  1645.  The  parish  is 
nearly  six  miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  and  about. 

Z2 


C  A  M  L 


CAMP 


four  miles  in  breadth,  and  comprises  7144  Scotch  acres, 
of  which  46S6  are  arable,  176/  meadow  and  pasture, 
476  woodland  and  plantations,  and  214  rough  pasture 
and  waste.  The  surface  rises  in  gentle  undulations, 
from  north  to  south,  but  not  to  any  considerable  height; 
and  an  eminence  to  the  north-west,  called  Drumcarro 
Craig,  is  the  only  hill.  The  general  scenery  is  agreeably 
diversified  with  wood  and  water  ;  between  the  rising 
grounds  are  small  intervals  of  level  land,  in  which 
flow  some  pleasing  streams  ;  and  the  various  planta- 
tions, consisting  chiefly  of  larch,  spruce,  and  Scotch 
firs,  add  greatly  to  the  appearance  of  the  district.  The 
soil  is,  in  some  places,  clay;  in  others,  a  rich  black 
loam,  varying  in  depth  from  two  inches  to  more  than 
two  feet ;  and  in  other  parts  of  the  parish,  light  and 
dry,  resting  upon  gravel  and  whinstone  rock.  The  chief 
crops  are,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips, 
with  the  usual  green  crops ;  the  system  of  agriculture 
is  in  a  highly  improved  state  ;  the  lands  have  been  well 
drained  and  inclosed.  Considerable  attention  is  paid 
to  the  rearing  of  live  stock ;  the'  cattle  are  principally 
of  the  Old  Fifeshire  breed,  which  has  recently  been  in- 
troduced, and  is  found  to  be  better  adapted  than  the 
Teeswater,  formerly  prevalent.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £8219-  The  substrata  are  mostly 
whinstone,  trap,  freestone,  limestone,  and  coal  ;  the 
limestone  is  quarried  on  the  lands  of  Radernie  and 
AVinthank,  and  from  the  former  place  a  railroad  has 
been  constructed,  for  conveying  the  limestone  to  the 
kilns.  Coal  is  wrought  on  the  lands  of  Drumcarro,  of 
good  quality ;  the  whinstone  is  quarried  for  repairing 
the  roads  ;  and  at  Hazzleden  is  a  quarry  of  freestone. 
The  only  seat  is  Mount  Melville,  a  handsome  mansion, 
with  a  well-planted  demesne.  The  parish  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  St.  Andrew's  and  synod  of  Fife ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £199.  12.  8.,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £10  per  annum.  The  church,  situated 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  built  in  1S08,  is 
adapted  for  600  persons.  There  is  a  place  of  worship 
for  the  United  Associate  Synod.  The  parochial  school 
is  under  good  regulations  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34,  with  £12.  10.  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden. 

CAMLACHIE,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  includ- 
ing the  village  of  Parkhead,  in  the  parish  of  Barony, 
suburbs  of  Glasgow,  county  of  Lanark  ;  containing 
3654  inhabitants,  of  whom  2152  are  in  the  village  of 
Camlachie,  1^  mile  (E.)  from  Glasgow.  Camlachie 
comprises,  besides  the  villages,  a  rural  district  contain- 
ing a  few  acres  of  well-cultivated  land  ;  it  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  north  of  the  Clyde,  but  the  houses  are 
in  general  indifferently  built.  On  the  bank  of  the  river, 
are  the  handsome  mansions  of  Belvidere  and  Westthorn, 
both  of  modern  erection,  and  commanding  fine  pros- 
pects. The  art  of  letter-founding  was  introduced,  and 
brought  to  great  perfection,  by  Mr.  Alexander  Wilson, 
afterwards  professor  of  astronomy  in  the  university  of 
Glasgow,  who,  removing  from  St.  Andrew's  to  this 
place,  established  a  foundry  here,  which  was  subse- 
quently transferred  to  Glasgow.  The  population  are 
almost  exclusively  employed  in  hand-loom  weaving,  and 
in  the  manufacture  of  muslins  ;  and  in  the  immediate 
vicinity,  are  several  coal-mines,  of  which,  however,  one 
only  is  in  operation,  for  the  supply  of  the  district.  In 
the  village  of  Parkhead,  is  a  penny-post  office,  under 
Glasgow.  The  parish  was  formed  in  1838;  the  church 
172 


'ist^f^i 


Seal  and  Arms. 


is   a  neat,  structure,  erected  by   the   Church  Building 
Society  of  Glasgow. 

CAMPBELLTOWN,  a 
burgh  and  parish,  in  the  dis- 
trict of  Cantyre,  county  of 
Argyll  ;  containing,  with 
the  villages  of  Dalintober 
and  Drumlemble,  9634  in- 
habitants, of  whom  5028  are 
in  the  burgh,  60  miles  (W. 
S.  W.)  from  Glasgow.  The 
name  of  this  place  was  once 
Dalruadhain,  from  its  being 
the  seat  of  the  ancient  Cel- 
tic Scots,  and  subsequently 
Lochhead,  from  its  situation  at  the  inland  extremity  of 
the  loch  of  Kilkerran.  Prior  to  the  commencement  of 
the  eighteenth  century,  it  was  merely  an  inconsiderable 
fishing  village  ;  but  it  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh, 
through  the  interest  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  in  1700,  and 
then  assumed  its  present  name,  in  compliment  to  the 
family  of  its  patron.  The  town,  which,  since  that 
period,  has  greatly  increased  in  extent  and  importance, 
is  beautifully  situated  on  the  southern  shore  of  the  lake 
or  inlet  now  called  Campbelltown  bay,  along  which  it 
extends  in  the  form  of  a  crescent.  It  consists  of  several 
spacious  and  well-formed  streets,  diverging  to  the  east 
and  west  from  the  central  or  main  street,  which  leads 
from  the  old  quay  to  the  Castle  hill,  formerly  the  seat 
of  the  ancient,  lords  of  the  Isles,  and  now  the  site  of 
the  church.  Parallel  with  these,  to  the  south,  are 
various  streets,  of  which  Argyll-street,  leading  to  the 
grounds  and  mansion  of  the  duke,  is  intersected  at 
right  angles  by  several  others,  of  which  one  extends 
from  the  new  pier  to  the  Gaelic  church.  The  streets 
are  well  paved,  and  lighted  with  gas  ;  and  the  inhabit- 
ants are  supplied,  though  scantily,  with  excellent  water, 
conveyed  from  a  spring  in  the  neighbourhood,  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  burgh.  There  are  two  circulating  libraries, 
which  are  furnished  with  journals  and  periodical  pub- 
lications. The  immediate  environs  abound  with  hand- 
some seats  and  villas,  the  residences  of  numerous  re- 
spectable families,  ranged  along  the  north  and  south 
shores  of  the  bay,  which  is  nearly  two  miles  in  length, 
and  about  one  mile  in  breadth,  and  is  enlivened  with 
gentlemen's  pleasure-boats,  and  by  the  frequent  arrival 
and  departure  of  the  steamers  navigating  the  Clyde. 

The  trade  of  the  town  arises  chiefly  from  its  distil- 
leries, and  fisheries,  which  are  carried  on  to  a  very  great 
extent.  There  are  not  less  than  twenty-five  distilleries, 
which  together,  in  1842,  consumed  303,711  bushels  of 
barley,  and  79,508  bushels  of  bear  ;  producing  747,502 
gallons  of  whisky,  of  which  1-2,978  gallons  were  shipped 
for  England,  3413  to  Ireland,  4346  to  foreign  parts,  and 
the  remainder,  58,760  gallons,  principally  to  Glasgow. 
The  trade  of  the  port  consists  mainly  in  the  exportation 
of  whisky,  malt,  black-cattle,  sheep,  horses,  beans, 
potatoes,  turnips,  and  other  agricultural  produce,  with 
butter,  cheese,  and  fish ;  and  in  the  importation  of 
barley,  yeast,  coal,  timber,  iron,  and  general  merchan- 
dise. The  fish  taken  off  the  coast  are  of  the  usual 
variety  of  white  fish,  and,  till  recently,  were  caught  by 
single  lines,  in  great  numbers  ;  but  the  quantity  has 
been  greatly  increased  by  the  introduction  of  lines  of 
great  length,  floated  on  the  surface  of  the   water  by 


CAMP 


CAMP 


buoys,  and  to  which  are  appended  numerous  single 
lines,  of  length  sufficient  to  reach  the  depth  at  which 
the  fish  are  most  generally  found.  About  500  families 
are  employed  in  this  fishery.  The  herring-fishery  is 
extensively  carried  on,  during  the  months  of  June,  July, 
and  August ;  and  in  1843,  150  boats,  of  four  men  each, 
were  engaged  in  this  fishery,  in  the  sound  of  Kilbrandon. 
Cod,  haddock,  and  ling  are  also  taken  in  abundance, 
and  are  partly  sent  in  a  fresh  state  to  Glasgow,  whence 
they  are  conveyed  to  the  neighbouring  towns,  and  parti}' 
dried  for  the  purpose  of  exportation  to  distant  mar- 
kets. 

The  number  of  vessels  registered,  as  belonging  to  the 
port,  is  thirty-three,  chiefly  sloops  and  schooners  in  the 
coasting  trade  ;  this  is  exclusive  of  the  number  of  fish- 
ing-boats, which  is  very  considerable,  and  there  is  also 
a  vessel  of  515  tons,  employed  in  the  timber  trade  with 
Canada.  In  1842,  646  vessels  entered  inwards,  and  365 
cleared  outwards,  two  of  which  were  in  the  foreign 
trade.  The  custom-house  department  is  under  the 
superintendence  of  a  collector,  comptroller,  and  two 
tide-waiters;  and  the  excise-office  has  a  collector,  two 
clerks,  three  supervisors,  and  fifty  officers.  The  har- 
bour is  sheltered  on  the  north  and  south  by  lofty  hills, 
and  on  the  south-east  by  the  isle  of  Devar,  with  which 
it  is  joined,  on  the  south  side,  by  a  bar  of  sand  nearly 
half  a  mile  in  length,  which  is  visible  at  low  water,  and, 
by  intercepting  the  violence  of  the  waves,  renders  the 
anchorage  peculiarly  safe.  The  entrance  is  from  the 
north,  by  a  narrow  channel  of  great  depth  ;  and  the 
harbour,  which  has  generally  from  three  to  fifteen 
fathoms  water,  has  two  boldly  projecting  piers,  of  which 
the  eastern,  called  the  new  pier,  is  of  recent  formation. 
The  quays  are  well  adapted  for  the  loading  and  unloading 
of  vessels,  and  every  requisite  accommodation  has  been 
provided,  for  facilitating  the  trade  of  the  port.  The 
market,  which  is  on  Thursday,  is  amply  supplied  with 
grain  and  agricultural  produce;  and  fairs  are  held  for 
cattle,  horses,  and  various  kinds  of  merchandise,  at 
Whitsuntide,  Lammas,  Michaelmas,  and  Candlemas. 
In  the  market-place,  which  is  in  the  centre  of  the  main 
street,  is  an  ancient  cross,  richly  sculptured  with  foliage, 
and  supposed  to  have  been  brought  from  Iona. 

By  a  charter  of  William  III.,  the  town,  which  was 
previously  a  burgh  of  barony,  was  erected  into  a  royal 
burgh,  and  the  government  vested  in  a  provost,  two 
bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and  twelve  coun- 
cillors, who  are  elected  under  the  provisions  of  the 
Municipal  Reform  act.  The  burgesses  have  no  privi- 
leges beyond  the  freedom  of  carrying  on  trade  within 
the  burgh ;  the  fees  of  admission  are,  to  a  stranger,  as 
a  merchant  burgess,  £3.  3.,  and  as  a  craftsman,  £2.  2., 
and  to  the  sons,  sons-in-law,  or  apprentices  of  burgesses, 
one-half  of  those  sums.  The  magistrates  hold  courts  for 
civil  matters,  to  any  amount ;  in  criminal  cases,  their 
jurisdiction  is  confined  to  misdemeanours  and  offences 
against  the  police,  in  which  they  are  assisted  by  the 
town-clerk,  who  acts  as  their  assessor.  The  town-house, 
situated  in  the.  central  part  of  the  town,  is  a  neat  build- 
ing, with  a  handsome  spire,  and  contains  two  council- 
chambers  for  the  transaction  of  public  business,  and  a 
spacious  hall  in  which  the  courts  are  held.  Above  these, 
is  the  prison  for  debtors,  consisting  of  two  apartments  ; 
and  on  the  ground-floor,  are  three  cells  for  criminals, 
all  badly  ventilated  and  lighted,  and  of  which  two  are 
173 


damp.  The  burgh  is  associated  with  Ayr,  Irvine,  In- 
verary,  and  Oban,  in  returning  a  member  to  the  im- 
perial parliament ;  the  parliamentary  boundaries  extend 
beyond  those  of  the  royalty  of  the  burgh,  including  the 
populous  villages  of  Dalintober  and  Dalaruin.  The 
number  of  householders  of  the  rent  of  £10  and  up- 
wards, within  the  royalty,  is  165,  of  whom  seventy- four 
are  burgesses  ;  and  beyond  the  royalty,  but  within  the 
parliamentary  boundary,  forty. 

The  parish  forms  a  portion  of  the  peninsula  of 
Cantyre,  including  the  ancient  parishes  of  Kilkivan, 
Kilmichael,  and  Kilchonsland,  which  were  united 
about  the  time  of  the  Reformation.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  east  by  the  sound  of  Kilbrandon,  and  on 
the  west  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  is  about  thirteen 
miles  in  length,  and  from  six  to  ten  in  breadth, 
comprising  an  area  of  87-§  square  miles  ;  two-thirds 
of  the  land  are  arable,  and  the  remainder  pasture, 
heath,  and  waste.  The  surface  is  diversified  with  hills, 
rising  both  from  the  north  and  south  shores  of  the 
bay  of  Campbelltown,  and  varying  from  800  to  1000  feet 
in  height.  Of  these,  the  highest  is  Bengaillin,  about 
a  mile  from  the  town,  and  commanding  an  extensive 
prospect,  embracing,  to  the  north-west,  the  islands  of 
Islay,  Jura,  and  Gigha  ;  to  the  north-east,  the  isles  of 
Arran,  Bute,  and  Cowal,  with  the  Frith  of  Clyde  ;  to 
the  south,  the  lowlands  as  far  as  Loch  Ryan,  with 
Ailsa  Craig  ;  and  to  the  south-west,  the  coast  of  Ireland, 
with  the  isle  of  Rathlin.  Between  the  town  and  the 
bay  of  Machrihanish,  which  indents  the  western  shore, 
is  a  tract  of  level  ground,  about  four  miles  in  length, 
and  nearly  three  in  breadth,  called  the  Laggan  of  Can- 
tyre,  having  an  elevation  of  nearly  forty  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  of  which  the  soil  has  the  appearance  of 
being  alluvial.  The  soil  of  the  parish  is  extremely 
various,  but,  in  many  parts,  of  considerable  fertility; 
the  principal  crops  are,  bear,  oats,  barley,  potatoes, 
which  are  raised  in  large  quantities,  and  beans.  The 
system  of  agriculture  is  improved,  and  much  of  the 
waste  land  has  been  drained ;  the  hills,  of  which  some 
are  cultivated  on  the  acclivities,  afford  pasturage  for 
black-cattle  and  sheep,  the  latter  of  the  native  breed. 
The  substrata  are  chiefly  sandstone,  limestone,  and 
ironstone,  and  the  rocks  are  composed  of  mica-slate, 
porphyry,  greywacke,  and  trap ;  some  beautiful  varieties 
of  green,  brown,  and  other  porphyry,  occur  on  the 
island  of  Devar.  Coal  is  found  within  three  miles  of 
the  town,  but  of  inferior  quality  ;  and  there  are  seve- 
ral mines  in  operation,  formerly  wrought  by  a  com- 
pany, for  the  supply  of  the  town,  to  which  the  coal 
is  conveyed  by  a  canal.  Several  plantations,  chiefly  of 
ash,  elm,  plane,  larch,  and  Scotch  and  spruce  firs, 
are  in  a  very  thriving  state. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Cantyre,  of  which  Camp- 
belltown is  the  seat,  and  the  synod  of  Argyll ;  there 
are  two  ministers,  of  whom  one  officiates  in  the  Gaelic, 
and  the  other  in  the  English  language.  The  minister 
of  the  first  charge,  which  is  the  Gaelic,  has  a  stipend 
of  £146.  15.  10.,  whereof  about  one-third  is  paid  from 
the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  three  glebes,  valued 
at  £92  per  annum  ;  and  the  minister  of  the  second 
charge  has  a  stipend  of  the  same  amount,  with  a 
glebe  valued  at  £26.  10.  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Duke 
of  Argyll.     The  Gaelic  church,  which  had  been,  for  some 


CAMP 


CAMP 


time,  in  a  dilapidated  condition,  was  rebuilt  in  1803, 
and  contains  2000  sittings  ;  the  English  church,  which 
occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  castle  of  the  lords 
of  the  Isles,  was  built  in  1780,  and  contains  1'200 
sittings.  A  chapel  of  ease  has  been  proposed  for  the  vil- 
lage of  Coalhill,  near  the  town  ;  and  in  the  burgh  are 
places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church, 
the  Relief  and  Secession  Synods,  Independents,  and 
Roman  Catholics.  The  parochial  school  is  consolidated 
with  that  of  the  burgh  ;  the  master,  who  is  appointed 
by  the  town- council,  subject  to  the  approval  of  the 
presbytery,  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  paid  by  the  heri- 
tors and  the  burgh,  together  with  a  house  adapted  for 
the  reception  of  boarders,  and  an  excellent,  garden ; 
his  fees  average  about  £150  per  annum,  out  of  which 
he  has  to  pay  an  assistant.  Miss  Campbell,  of  Govan 
Bank,  built  two  schools  at  Dalintober,  at  an  expense 
of  £1150;  and  for  their  endowment,  she  bequeathed 
to  the  Kirk  Session,  the  sum  of  £4600.  The  same 
lady  left  £600  to  the  female  school  of  industry,  £300 
towards  the  support  of  a  parochial  missionary,  £300 
to  the  Sabbath  schools,  £600  to  the  Female  Benevolent 
Society,  and  £500  to  the  poor  of  the  parish. 

CAMPBELTON,  a  village,  chiefly  in  the  parish  of 
Ardersier,  county  of  Inverness,  6  miles  (W.)  from 
Nairn  ;  containing,  with  the  garrison  of  Fort  George, 
1200  inhabitants,  of  whom  944  are  in  the  village.  This 
place,  which  is  indebted  for  its  origin  to  the  esta- 
blishment of  the  garrison,  takes  its  name  from  the 
Campbells,  earls  of  Cawdor,  upon  whose  lands  it  is 
built,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  a  bay  in  the  Moray 
Frith.  The  houses  are  neat,  and  there  are  numerous 
well-stored  shops,  containing  wares  and  merchandise 
of  all  kinds  for  the  supply  of  the  garrison  ;  a  sub- 
scription library  has  been  established,  and  there  are 
several  good  inns.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  em- 
ployed in  the  herring-fishery,  which  is  carried  on  with 
spirit  and  success ;  and  not  less  than  sixteen  boats,  of 
twelve  tons  burthen,  sail  to  the  fishing-stations  of 
Helmsdale  and  Burgh-Head,  each  boat  taking,  during  the 
season,  about  200  barrels,  valued  at  13  shillings  each. 
The  fishermen  of  Campbelton  are  also  employed  in 
the  white-fishery  off  the  coast ;  the  fish  usually  taken 
are,  haddock,  cod,  skate,  whiting,  flounders,  and  occa- 
sionally turbot,  halibut,  and  soles ;  the  produce,  after 
supplying  the  parish,  is  sent  to  Inverness,  for  which 
purpose,  during  the  summer,  there  are  lightly-built 
and  fast-sailing  vessels.  A  little  coasting  trade  is  also 
carried  on,  in  which  three  vessels  of  100  tons,  be- 
longing to  a  family  in  the  village,  are  employed,  chiefly 
in  the  trade  with  Sunderland.  The  post-office  has  a 
daily  delivery ;  and  facility  of  communication  is  af- 
forded by  the  great  road  from  Inverness  to  Aberdeen, 
and  the  military  road  from  Fort  George  to  Perth, 
which  pass  through  the  village  ;  and  by  a  ferry  from 
Fort  George  to  Chanonry  Point,  in  the  county  of  Ross. 
A  court  for  the  recovery  of  small  debts  is  held  every 
month  ;  and  there  is  a  fair,  called  the  Lammas  Market, 
annually  on  the  12th  of  August,  for  lambs,  sheep, 
milch  cows,  a  few  horses,  cheese,  and  various  wares, 
and  for  the  hiring  of  servants. 

Fort  George  was  erected  soon   after  the  Rebellion  in 
the  year   1745,   with  a  view    to    keep  the  Highlanders 
in  subjection,   and  was  completed  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  General  Skinner,  at  a  cost  of  more  than 
174 


£160,000;  it  is  situated  on  the  point  of  Ardersier, 
which  projects  far  into  the  Frith,  and  commands  the 
entrance  of  that  channel.  The  buildings,  which  occupy 
an  area  of  fifteen  acres,  form  an  irregular  polygon, 
defended  by  six  bastions,  each  named  after  some  dis- 
tinguished general  of  the  time,  and  mounting,  respec- 
tively, 18  twenty- four-pounders,  25  eighteen,  22  twelve, 
and  4  six-pounders.  On  three  sides,  the  ramparts 
rise  almost  from  the  sea,  which,  at  any  time,  may  be 
let  into  the  ditch  ;  and  on  the  land  side,  the  fortress 
is  defended  by  a  broad  ditch,  a  covered  way  and  glacis, 
two  lunettes,  and  a  raveline  mounting  eight  twelve- 
pounders.  The  north  and  south  curtains  are  bomb-proof, 
and  contain  each  twenty-seven  apartments,  fifty-two  feet 
in  length,  and  twelve  feet  wide ;  the  grand  magazine, 
which  is  also  bomb-proof,  will  hold  2472  barrels  of  gun- 
powder, and  at  the  eastern  extremity  are  two  smaller 
magazines,  containing  ammunition  for  immediate  use. 
The  barracks,  which  are  towards  the  land  point,  com- 
prise apartments  for  a  governor,  lieutenant-governor, 
fort-major,  chaplain,  eight  field-officers,  22  captains, 
56  subalterns  and  2090  non-commissioned  officers  and 
privates ;  there  are  also  a  chapel,  brewhouse,  bake- 
house, and  an  inn,  within  the  walls.  The  fortress  is  now 
garrisoned  generally  by  depots  of  foreign  regiments, 
and,  at  present,  contains  only  about  256  inhabitants. 

CAMPMUIR,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Kettins, 
county  of  Forfar  ;  containing  45  inhabitants. 

CAMPSIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Stirling, 
3|  miles  (E.)  from  Strathblane;  containing,  with  the 
villages  of  Birdstone,  Haugh-head,  Lennoxtown,  Milton, 
Torrance,  and  the  Clachan,  6402  inhabitants.  This 
parish,  previously  to  the  year  1649,  was  much  larger 
than  at  present,  and,  on  account  of  its  isolated  situa- 
tion, arising  from  its  natural  boundaries,  was  distin- 
guished by  many  peculiarities  and  singular  customs  ; 
but,  at  the  period  named,  its  southern  extremity  was 
erected  into  a  new  parish  called  Baldernock,  and  its 
eastern  extremity  united  to  Kilsyth.  It  now  extends 
in  length  about  seven  miles,  and  six  in  breadth,  com- 
prising 13,500  Scottish  acres,  of  which  about  6000  are 
hills,  6000  arable,  400  wood  and  plantations,  and  the 
remainder  lakes,  &c.  The  surface  consists  of  two 
ranges  of  hills,  and  the  intermediate  valley,  running 
nearly  from  east  to  west ;  the  highest  eminences  are 
those  forming  the  northern  boundary,  called  Campsie 
fells,  rising,  at  their  greatest  elevation,  1500  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  intersected  with  numerous  glens  of 
exquisite  beauty,  exhibiting  a  profusion  of  romantic 
scenery  on  their  rocky  sides.  In  that  called  Kirktoun 
glen,  artificial  terraces  have  been  cut,  shrouded  with 
ferns,  lichens,  and  all  kinds  of  wild  flowers ;  and 
numbers  of  persons  resort  to  it  in  fine  weather,  to 
witness  the  variety  and  grandeur  of  the  prospect.  The 
southern  range,  called  the  Brae,  is  a  continuation  of 
the  braes  of  Killpatrick,  and  rises  about  700  feet.  The 
valley  is  covered  throughout  with  a  succession  of  un- 
dulations, reaching  to  the  precipitous  sides  of  the 
northern  fells,  whence  several  burns  pour  down,  three 
of  which,  uniting  their  streams,  form  the  river  Glassert, 
which,  after  traversing  a  considerable  extent  of  ground 
in  the  parish,  falls  into  the  Kelvin  near  Kirkintilloch. 

Near  the  base  of  the  fells,  which  are  clothed  to 
their  summit  with  rich  verdant  pasture,  the  soil  is 
chiefly  a  light  clayey  earth,  and  the   subsoil  tilly,  and 


CAMP 


C  A  N  I 


exceedingly  tenacious  ;  the  hillocks  and  undulations  in 
the  strath  are  frequently  a  light  earth,  resting  on 
sand  and  gravel,  and  in  several  places  loamy.  The 
southern  brae  is  all  under  tillage,  with  the  exception 
of  about  400  acres  of  heath,  and  200  of  wood,  and 
has  a  clayey  soil,  on  its  side  towards  the  Kelvin,  which 
is  succeeded  by  lower  grounds  of  a  sandy,  gravelly, 
alluvial,  and  mossy  character,  reaching  to  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  river.  On  account  of  the  proximity 
of  the  parish  to  Glasgow,  dairy  produce  forms  a  leading 
object ;  other  branches  of  husbandry,  however,  share 
much  attention,  and  all  kinds  of  grain,  pulse,  and 
green  crops  are  raised,  under  the  best  system  of  ma- 
nagement, and  of  excellent  quality.  The  Ayrshire  cows 
are  used  exclusively ;  the  cattle  grazed  on  the  hills, 
are  mostly  West  Highlanders,  and  the  sheep  the  black- 
faced  breed.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £1S,140.  The  mineral  contents  of  the  district  are 
extensive  and  valuable,  consisting  of  most  of  the  va- 
rieties of  the  trap  rocks,  and  coal,  with  the  layers 
of  which  latter,  beds  of  freestone,  aluminous  clay-slate, 
ironstone  of  the  argillaceous  kind,  and  limestone,  are 
found  alternating.  About  35,000  tons  of  coal,  and 
large  quantities  of  lime,  are  every  year  produced  ;  alum 
is  obtained  from  a  schist  found  in  the  coal  strata, 
and  ironstone  has  been  partially  wrought  lately,  and 
is  abundant.  The  plantations  comprising  larch,  Scotch 
fir,  spruce,  sycamore,  oak,  and  ash,  have  been  much 
increased  since  the  close  of  the  last  century,  espe- 
cially in  the  vicinity  of  Woodhead.  In  the  same 
neighbourhood,  stands  Lennox  Castle,  on  the  acclivity 
of  the  south  brae,  500  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
strath,  and  commanding  extensive  views.  This  splendid 
mansion  was  finished  in  1841,  in  the  Norman  style, 
and  nearly  opposite  is  situated  the  mansion  of  Craig- 
barnet,  and  a  little  eastward  that  of  Balancleroch  ; 
besides  which,  the  parish  contains  those  of  Kincaid, 
Antermony,  Glorat  House,  and  Auchinreoch. 

The  inhabitants  are  partly  employed  in  weaving,  and 
in  mills  for  cotton-printing,  and  bleachfields,  the  ope- 
rations of  which  have  been  greatly  extended,  on  account 
of  the  large  supply  of  coal  and  of  water.  At  Lennox- 
mill,  employing  700  persons,  every  description  of  cotton 
fabrics  is  printed,  from  the  coarsest  to  the  finest, 
and  about  250,000  pieces  are  every  year  finished,  partly 
for  home  use,  and  partly  for  exportation.  The  other 
establishments  are,  Clachan  bleachfield,  commenced  in 
1819,  for  preparing  various  kinds  of  muslins  for  ex- 
portation ;  Kincaid,  established  in  1785,  for  bleaching 
and  printing  cottons;  Lillyburn,  commenced  in  1831, 
for  the  printing  of  linen  and  calico  shawls  and  hand- 
kerchiefs ;  and  Glenmill,  begun  in  January,  1831,  chiefly 
for  bleaching  book  muslins.  There  are  also  works  for 
the  manufacture  of  alum,  copperas,  prussiate  of  potash, 
Prussian  blue,  &c.  A  turnpike-road  from  Strathblane 
to  Kilsyth  passes  through  the  parish,  from  east  to 
west,  and  another  crosses  this,  and  runs  over  the 
fells,  from  Glasgow  to  Fintry  and  Kippen ;  the  Glas- 
gow road,  also,  to  Stirling,  by  Kilsyth,  passes  the 
south-east  corner,  and  the  Forth  and  Clyde  canal  on 
its  southern  extremity.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Glasgow  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the 
patronage  of  the  Crown ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£2S5.  3.  7-,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £17.  15. 
per  annum.  The  church  formerly  stood  at  the  Clachan, 
175 


but  the  present  edifice  was  built  in  1829,  on  a  far  more 
convenient  spot,  at  Lennoxtown ;  it  is  a  handsome 
structure,  capable  of  accommodating  1550  persons,  and 
cost  nearly  £8000.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  the 
Relief  persuasion.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruc- 
tion in  all  the  ordinary  branches  of  education ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  £18  fees,  and  the  in- 
terest of  £2/0,  left  by  Robert  Blair,  Esq.,  of  Glasgow. 
Two  other  parochial  schools  are  supported  by  the  heri- 
tors, at  Craighead  and  Torrance,  the  master  of  the 
former  of  which,  in  addition  to  the  salary  of  £41.  5.  11., 
receives  £20  per  annum  from  Messrs.  Inglis,  who,  in 
connexion  with  Mr.  Lennox,  have  rebuilt  the  premises 
on  a  much  larger  scale.  There  are  also  two  subscription 
libraries.  The  remains  of  two  forts,  of  native  construc- 
tion, are  visible  at  the  base  of  the  Campsie  fells  ;  and 
Roman  urns,  and  coins  of  Elizabeth,  James  I.,  and 
Charles  I.,  have  occasionally  been  dug  up. 

CANISBAY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Caithness; 
including  the  island  of  Stroma,  a  small  part  of  the  late 
quoad  sacra  parish  of  Keiss,  and  the  detached  town- 
ships of  Auckingill,  Duncansbay,  Freswick,  Gills,  Huna, 
Brabster,  and  East  and  West  Mey  ;  and  containing  2306 
inhabitants.  The  name  of  this  place  has  generally  been 
supposed  to  be  a  corruption  of  the  term  Canute's  bay, 
from  some  Norwegian  chief  who  arrived  here  ;  but 
others  think  it  comes  from  Canna,  the  name  of  a  plant 
once  abundant  in  the  district.  In  ancient  times,  the 
parish  was  portioned  into  several  parts,  in  each  of 
which  there  was  a  religious  edifice ;  and  at  Fres- 
wick, are  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle,  called  Bucholie 
Castle,  which  is  of  great  antiquity,  and  is  said  to  have 
been  inhabited,  in  the  12th  century,  by  a  Danish  noble- 
man of  the  name  of  Suenus  Asteilf.  From  certain 
entries  in  the  session  records,  it  is  probable  that  Oliver 
Cromwell,  or  some  of  his  officers,  were  in  the  parish  in 
the  year  1652.  Canisbay  is  situated  in  the  north-east 
corner  of  Scotland,  and  is  the  most  remote  parish  in  the 
country  ;  it  measures  about  eight  miles  in  length,  from 
east  to  west,  and  its  mean  breadth  is  about  six  miles, 
the  whole  containing  upwards  of  32,000  acres.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Pentland  Frith,  and  on 
the  east  by  the  German  Ocean  ;  the  coast  on  the  north 
side  is  in  general  level,  but  on  the  east  bold  and  preci- 
pitous. The  chief  headlands  are,  Grey- head,  Skirsa- 
head,  St.  John's  or  Mey  head,  and  the  beautiful  pro- 
montory of  Duncansbay  head,  which  last  is  about  two 
miles  in  circumference,  and  is  indented  with  several 
large  ravines.  Near  it  are  two  rocks,  surrounded  by 
the  sea,  called  the  Stacks  of  Duncansbay  ;  they  are  of 
oval  form,  and  shoot  up  fantastically  to  a  great  height, 
attracting,  in  the  spring  and  summer,  swarms  of  sea- 
fowl,  and  on  the  top  of  the  larger  stack,  the  eagle  has 
its  habitation.  The  bays  are,  Freswick  ha]',  on  the 
east,  and  Duncansbay  and  Gills  bay,  on  the  north, 
the  beaches  of  which  consist  principally  of  sand  and 
shells.  In  the  interior,  the  land  is  remarkably  level,  the 
ward  or  watch  hill  being  the  only  considerable  elevation, 
rising  about  300  feet  above  the  sea  ;  the  loch  of  Mey, 
in  circumference  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  is  the  sole 
loch  in  the  parish,  and  among  the  few  small  streams, 
the  burn  of  Freswick  is  the  principal. 

Heath  and  deep  moss,  with  a  little  coarse  grass,  cover 
nine-tenths  of  the  surface ;  and  the  soil,  in  the  culti- 
vated grounds,  consists  in  general  of  a  light  black  loam, 


C  ANO 


C  A  NO 


with  an  intermixture  of  moss.  The  moor  and  pasture 
comprehend  about  2S,S00  acres,  in  a  state  of  undivided 
common,  and  open  to  the  cattle  and  sheep  of  all  the 
parishioners ;  the  arable  land  consists  of  about  3200 
acres,  the  produce  of  which  is  bear  and  oats,  with  pota- 
toes, turnips,  &c.  The  sheep  and  cattle,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  few  reared  by  the  large  proprietors,  are  the 
native  breed,  in  its  worst  and  most  deteriorated  state  ; 
agriculture  is  at  a  very  low  ebb,  the  rotation  system 
being  unknown  among  the  people  in  general,  and  the 
crops,  for  want  of  manure  and  good  husbandry,  are  of  a 
very  inferior  kind.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £3675.  The  prevailing  rock  is  red  sandstone ; 
there  is  also  some  greywacke,  and  a  tolerable  supply  of 
limestone  is  obtained.  The  three  chief  proprietors  have 
all  good  mansions ;  that  of  the  Earl  of  Caithness  is 
Barrogil  Castle,  an  ancient  and  venerable  pile,  and  the 
two  others  are  Freswick  and  Brabster  Houses.  Several 
boats  are  regularly  engaged  in  obtaining  lobsters  for  the 
London  market,  and  there  are  thirty  large  boats  em- 
ployed in  the  herring-fishery,  the  value  of  the  fisheries 
being  estimated  at  £1650  per  annum.  Cod  are  plentiful 
on  the  coast,  and  coal-fish,  or,  as  they  are  here  called, 
Cuddens,  at  certain  seasons,  are  taken  in  immense  quan- 
tities, and  not  only  serve  the  poorer  classes  for  food, 
but  supply  plenty  of  oil  for  light.  The  people  in  the 
parish  rely  principally  upon  fishing  for  their  subsist- 
ence :  there  are  post-offices  at  Mey  and  Huna,  the 
latter  of  which  is  seventeen  miles  and  a  quarter  from 
Wick,  and  a  turnpike-road  runs  from  Thurso  to  Huna. 
Two  small  fairs  for  the  sale  of  horses,  cattle,  and  swine, 
are  yearly  held,  the  one  in  February,  at  Freswick,  and 
the  other  in  December,  at  Canisbay.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Caithness  and 
synod  of  Caithness  and  Sutherland  ;  patron,  William 
James  John  Alexander  Sinclair,  Esq. ;  the  stipend  is 
£205,  and  there  is  a  manse,  with  a  glebe  worth  £6  per 
annum.  The  church  was  thoroughly  repaired  in  1832, 
and  accommodates  512  persons.  A  parochial  school  is 
supported,  the  master  of  which  has  the  maximum 
salary,  with  the  legal  accommodations,  and  £5  fees  ; 
there  are  also  two  schools  maintained  by  the  Society 
for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge,  and  a  parochial 
subscription  library.  About  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the 
west  of  Duncansbay-head,  stood  the  celebrated  John 
o'  Groats  House,  of  which  nothing  but  the  site  remains. 

CANNA,  an  island  of  the  Hebrides,  forming  part 
of  the  parish  of  Small  Isles,  in  the  district  of  Mull, 
county  of  Argyll  ;  and  containing  255  inhabitants. 
This  island  is  about  thirty  miles  distant  from  that  of 
Eigg,  and  is  computed  to  be  four  miles  in  length,  and 
one  in  breadth,  containing  about  1900  acres;  it  is 
partly  high  and  rocky,  but  affords  excellent  pasture, 
and  tolerable  tillage.  The  harbour  is  accounted  one  of 
the  best  among  the  Hebrides,  though  difficult  of  ap- 
proach in  stormy  weather,  owing  to  the  narrowness  of 
the  entrance,  and  the  sunken  rocks  that  lie  near  it.  On 
the  south-east  side  of  Canna,  is  Sand  Island,  separated 
by  a  channel  which  is  dry  at  low  water. 

CANNESBURN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  New 
Kilpatrick,  county  of  Dumbarton,  1  mile  (S.  by  E.) 
from  New  Kilpatrick  ;  containing  33  inhabitants.  It 
is  seated  on  the  road  from  Glasgow  to  Drymen. 

CANOBIE,  or  CANONBIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county 
of  Dumfries,  6  miles  (N.)  from  Longtown  ;  containing 
176 


3032  inhabitants.  An  ancient  priory  here  is  supposed 
to  have  given  the  name  to  this  place,  Canobie  being 
probably  derived  from  the  Saxon  Bie,  or  By,  signifying 
"  a  station,"  and  thus  interpreting  the  word  "  the  resi- 
dence of  the  canons."  How  long  before  the  year  1165, 
when  a  grant  of  land  was  made  by  William  the  Lion, 
this  religious  establishment  existed,  is  uncertain.  In 
the  year  1533,  Henry  VIII.  claimed  it,  as  having  be- 
longed at  one  time,  as  well  as  the  whole  parish,  to  Eng- 
land, upon  which  pretence  he  ordered  hostilities  to  be 
commenced  upon  the  Scottish  borders  ;  and  about  the 
end  of  the  reign  of  James  V.,  in  1542,  after  the  sur- 
render of  the  Scottish  army  at  Solway  Moss,  the  English 
soldiers,  upon  the  same  pretext,  pillaged  and  laid  in 
ruins  both  the  monastery  and  church.  The  church  was 
dedicated  to  St.  Martin,  and  was  often  called  the  Church 
of  Liddel,  from  the  river  near  which  it  stood  ;  in  the 
reign  of  David  I.,  Turgot  de  Rossedale  founded  a 
canonry  in  connexion  with  it,  which  afterwards  came  into 
the  hands  of  the  monks  at  Jedburgh,  but  was  dissolved 
at  the  Reformation.  On  account  of  the  exposure  of 
the  parish  to  the  English  borderers,  many  places  of  de- 
fence were  formerly  erected,  the  vestiges  of  some  of 
which  still  remain.  At  a  place  called  Gill-knocky,  near 
the.  eastward  of  Hollows  bridge,  stands  the  tower  of 
Hollows,  the  reputed  castle  of  John  Armstrong,  a  famous 
chieftain  in  the  reign  of  James  V.,  and  styled  John  of 
Gill-knocky  ;  he  was  the  terror  of  the  western  marches 
of  England,  and  forced  the  inhabitants  of  Cumberland, 
Westmorland,  and  a  great  part  of  Northumberland,  to 
become  his  tributaries,  or  pay  him  annually  blackmail. 
Not  far  from  Penton  Linns,  on  the  banks  of  the  Liddel, 
was  the  strong  tower  of  Harelaw,  formerly  the  residence 
of  Hector  Armstrong,  the  famous  freebooter,  who,  by 
bribery,  betrayed  the  Earl  of  Northumberland  into  the 
hands  of  the  regent  Murray. 

The  parish  is  nine  miles  long,  and  six  broad,  and 
contains  23,177  acres,  2  roods,  14  perches,  of  which 
11,774  are  in  tillage,  10,522  in  pasture,  and  SSI  in 
wood;  it  is  bounded  on  the  south  and  east  by  county 
Cumberland,  from  which  it  is  partly  divided  by  the 
river  Liddel.  The  district  may  be  considered  as  the  low 
grounds  of  Eskdale  ;  the  surface,  however,  is  uneven, 
and  diversified  by  a  variety  of  ridges,  with  the  exception 
of  the  land  on  the  banks  of  the  Esk,  which  is  generally 
level.  This  river,  flowing  through  the  middle  of  the 
parish,  from  north  to  south,  receives  the  Liddel  nearly 
at  the  southern  boundary,  and  falls,  at  the  distance  of 
about  seven  miles,  into  the  Solway  Frith  :  along  its 
course,  parallel  with  which  passes  the  great  road  from 
Edinburgh  to  London,  by  Langholm  and  Carlisle,  is  a 
succession  of  the  most  varied  scenery  to  be  met  with 
in  this  part  of  Scotland.  The  Liddel  runs  between 
banks  beautified  with  natural  woods  and  plantations, 
and  is  especially  celebrated  for  the  beauty  of  its  course 
near  Penton  Linns,  where  the  stream  rushes  through  a 
narrow  channel  formed  by  the  projection  of  precipitous 
and  lofty  rocks  on  each  side,  overgrown  with  copse- 
wood.  The  soil,  on  the  holm-land  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  rivers,  is  chiefly  light  loam,  and  produces 
early  and  rich  crops  of  all  kinds,  being  much  favoured 
by  the  shelter  of  a  profusion  of  wood  ;  on  the  higher 
grounds,  it  is  mossy,  wet,  and  clayey,  but,  if  well  limed, 
produces  good  crops,  especially  in  dry  seasons.  A  large 
part  of  this  land  has  been  brought  into  general  cultiva- 


CAPU 


C  A  P  U 


tion,  by  draining  and  fencing.  The  sheep  are  the 
Cheviots,  the  largest  of  which  are  often  crossed  with  the 
Leicester  ;  some  of  the  cattle  are  the  Teeswater,  but  the 
Galloway  breed  is  preferred.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £9095.  Limestone,  sandstone,  and 
coal  abound,  the  last  in  hollows  of  the  transition  rocks. 
There  are  extensive  corn-mills  at  Hollows,  near  the 
banks  of  the  Esk.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject 
to  the  presbytery  of  Langholm  and  synod  of  Dum- 
fries ;  patron,  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  ;  the  stipend  is 
£236.  12.  6.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  twenty  acres, 
valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The  church  is  an  elegant 
sandstone  building  with  a  tower,  erected  in  1822,  at  an 
expense  of  £3000,  and  contains  sittings  for  upwards  of 
1000  persons.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which 
Greek,  Latin,  French,  and  all  the  usual  branches  of 
education  are  taught,  and  the  master  of  which  has  a 
salary  of  £31.  6.,  with  the  legal  accommodations,  and 
fees  amounting  to  about  £30.  A  subscription  library, 
two  friendly  societies,  and  a  savings'  bank,  are  also  sup- 
ported. Among  the  numerous  ruins  of  defence-towers, 
the  most  perfect  and  the  most  famed  is  that  of  Johnnie 
Armstrong,  sixty  feet  long,  forty-six  broad,  and  seventy- 
two  high;  it  has  two  round  turrets,  with  loop-holes  at 
the  east  and  west  angles,  and  was,  in  former  times,  a 
place  of  great  strength.  About  one  mile  to  the  east  of 
this,  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  station,  supposed  to 
be  the  first  in  the  chain  from  Netherbie  to  Castle-Over, 
the  upper  camp,  in  the  parish  of  Eskdalemuir.  Dr. 
Russell,  author  of  the  History  of  Modem  Europe,  who 
died  in  1793>  an<i  Mr.  Benjamin  Bell,  the  celebrated 
surgeon,  were  natives  of  the  parish. 

CANONGATE.— See  Edinburgh. 

CAOLVALLOCK,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Weem, 
county  of  Perth  ;   containing  50  inhabitants. 

CAPUTH,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth  ;  con- 
taining, with  the  villages  of  Craigie,  Fungarth,  Kin- 
cairnie,  Meikleour,  and  Spittalfield,  2317  inhabitants, 
of  whom  17S  are  in  the  village  of  Wester  Caputh,  5  miles 
(E.  S.  E.)  from  Dunkeld.  This  place,  called  in  ancient 
records  Keapoch,  was  in  former  times  the  site  of  a 
Pictish  town  of  great  strength,  named,  according  to 
Boetius,  Tuline  or  Tulina,  and  the  inhabitants  of  which, 
who  were  very  numerous,  burned  and  deserted  it,  on 
the  approach  of  the  Romans.  It  was  situated  at  a 
place  called  at  present  Inchtuthil,  "  the  island  in  the 
flooded  stream,"  and  is  supposed  to  be  the  station  de- 
scribed by  Tacitus,  to  which  Agricola  led  his  troops, 
after  the  famous  battle  with  Galgacus.  Caputh  is 
mentioned  in  Mylne's  Lives  of  the  Bishops  of  Dunkeld,  as 
originally  forming  a  portion  of  the  parish  of  Little  Dun- 
keld, and  as  having  been  erected  into  a  distinct  parish, 
in  the  year  1500,  by  Bishop  Brown,  who  built,  at  his 
own  cost,  a  quire,  with  painted  ceiling  and  glazed  win- 
dows, and  gave,  for  the  support  of  the  minister,  a 
vicarage  which  had  been  formerly  united  to  his  see,  four 
acres  of  glebe  land,  and  some  rising  ground,  called  the 
Mute-hill,  for  the  erection  of  a  church.  This  author 
also  informs  us,  that  the  parish  of  Dowally  was  once  a 
part  of  Caputh,  and  that  the  same  bishop  built  and 
endowed  a  church  in  honour  of  St.  Anne,  among  the 
woods  of  the  church  lands  of  that  district,  in  conse- 
quence of  having  heard  that  the  Irish  language  was 
spoken  in  the  Highland  parts  of  Caputh. 

The  parish  is  situated  on  the  northern  bank  of  the 
Vol.  I.— 177 


river  Tay,  which  forms  its  boundary  for  ten  miles,  from 
the  bridge  of  Dunkeld,  on  the  west,  to  its  confluence 
with  the  Isla,  on  the  east  ;  the  latter  river  forms  its 
boundary  on  the  south-east,  and  the  Lunan  separates  it, 
on  the  north-east,  from  Blairgowrie.  It  measures  about 
thirteen  miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  and  varies  in 
breadth  from  two  to  seven  miles,  comprising  16.000 
acres,  which  form  the  principal  part  of  the  plain  of  Stor- 
mont,  a  continuation  of  the  vale  of  Strathmore,  towards 
the  foot  of  the  Grampians.  The  surface  is  considerably 
diversified  ;  the  portion  towards  the  south-east  is 
nearly  level,  and  consists  of  rich  and  well-cultivated 
tracts,  while  the  northern  and  north-western  parts  are 
hilly,  and  present  many  beautiful  varieties  of  Highland 
scenery,  enlivened  by  refreshing  streams,  traversing  the 
verdant  dales.  The  river  Tay,  on  which,  as  well  as  the 
Isla,  are  extensive  salmon-fisheries,  here  varies  in  width 
from  150  to  200  yards,  and  is  distinguished  for  its 
striking  scenery.  Towards  the  northern  boundary,  the 
burn  of  Lunan,  which  rises  in  the  Grampians,  falls 
down  a  precipitous  and  thickly- wooded  glen  two  or 
three  miles  long,  and  reaches  the  loch  of  Craiglush ; 
adjoining  this,  is  the  fine  piece  of  water  called  Lows, 
about  two  miles  north-east  of  Dunkeld,  and  not  far  off, 
is  the  loch  of  Butterstone.  After  passing  through  all 
these  waters,  and  connecting  them  in  a  chain,  the  Lunan 
runs  eastward,  and  falls  into  the  Isla,  seven  miles  from 
Caputh  church. 

The  soil,  near  the  rivers,  is  a  rich  alluvial  earth,  and 
is  much  indebted  for  its  fertility  to  deposits  conveyed 
by  the  frequent  overflowing  of  the  streams  ;  in  the  lower 
and  level  grounds,  it  is  in  general  light  and  dry,  and  in 
the  higher  parts  cold  and  wet,  though,  where  well  cul- 
tivated, very  fertile.  The  husbandry  is  on  a  superior 
footing,  and  excellent  crops  are  raised  ;  bone  manure 
has  been  extensively  applied,  and,  in  some  parts,  very 
beneficially  as  a  top-dressing  to  the  pasture.  The  cattle 
formerly  bred  were  the  Angus  dodded  sort ;  but  these 
have  been  latterly  much  improved  by  crosses  with  the 
Teeswater  and  Ayrshire,  and  the  sheep,  which  are  of 
various  kinds,  are  gradually  improving  by  the  inter- 
mixture of  Leicester  stock.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £14,426.  The  chief  rocks  are  limestone 
and  clay-slate,  and  the  former,  which  is  of  good  quality, 
has  been  extensively  quarried  for  some  years,  and  burnt 
in  kilns  the  construction  of  which  obtained,  some 
time  since,  a  premium  from  the  Highland  Society  ;  at 
Newtyle,  a  quarry  of  dark  blue  slate,  of  firm  texture, 
has  long  been  in  operation,  and  the  material  is  in  great 
demand.  The  mansions  are,  Delvine  House,  a  plain  but 
pleasant  residence,  nearly  three  miles  east  of  the  church  ; 
Meikleour  House,  beautifully  seated  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  Tay  ;  Snaigow  House,  an  elegant  mansion  in  the 
old  baronial  style,  two  miles  north  of  the  church  ;  and 
Glendelvine,  a  modern  residence,  similar  in  style  to  that 
of  Snaigow.  Cattle-fairs  are  held  at  Meikleour,  on  the 
fourth  Friday  in  June,  the  second  day  in  July,  third 
Friday  in  August,  and  fourth  Friday  in  October.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dunkeld  and  synod  of 
Perth,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown  ;  the  minis- 
ter's stipend  is  £232.  15.  11.,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £22.  10.  per  annum.  The  church,  built 
in  1798,  is  a  plain  commodious  edifice,  situated  on  an 
eminence  near  the  southern  border,  and  contains  sittings 
for  800  persons  ;   it  has  lately  been  extensively  repaired, 

2  A 


CARD 


CARD 


and  improved  by  the  erection  of  a  new  porch  at  each 
end.  The  parochial  school  is  in  the  village  of  Spittal- 
field,  and  affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden, 
and  £30  fees.  A  savings'  bank  was  established  in  1815. 
Remains  exist  of  a  Roman  camp  at  Inchtuthil,  sup- 
posed to  have  been  the  station  of  Agricola  ;  it  is  situated 
on  the  north-eastern  part  of  a  piece  of  table-land  cover- 
ing upwards  of  200  acres,  steep  on  all  sides,  and  ele- 
vated about  sixty  feet  above  the  plain  on  which  it  stands. 
It  measures  about  500  yards  square,  and  the  walls,  now 
almost  levelled  by  the  plough,  were  nine  and  a  half  feet 
thick,  and  built  with  stones  brought  from  a  quarry  two 
miles  distant ;  on  the  south-eastern  side,  are  two  tumuli, 
and  a  redoubt.  There  are  also  in  the  parish  numerous 
Druidical  circles  and  cairns,  one  of  the  latter  of  which, 
called  Cairnmure,  or  the  Big  Cairn,  is  the  largest  in  the 
county,  being  456  feet  in  circumference,  and  14  feet  in 
height. 

CARA,  Argyll. — See  Gigha  and  Cara. 

CARDROSS,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dumbar- 
ton ;  including  the  villages  of  West  Bridgend  and 
Renton,  and  the  hatnlet  of  Geilstone-Briclge ;  and  con- 
taining 4416  inhabitants,  of  whom  51  are  in  the  hamlet 
of  Cardross,  3-f  miles  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Dumbarton,  on 
the  road  to  Helensburgh.  The  name  of  Cardross  is 
derived  from  a  compound  word  in  the  Celtic  language, 
signifying  "the  moorish  ridge  point,"  used  in  reference 
to  the  peculiar  situation  and  aspect  of  the  parish.  It 
appears  to  have  escaped  those  bloody  feuds  which  were 
formerly  so  common  in  the  surrounding  country,  not 
from  any  security  in  its  position,  but  from  the  peaceful 
disposition  of  its  inhabitants,  who,  though  sometimes 
visited  by  predatory  bands,  furnished  no  pretext,  by  a 
sanguinary  resentment,  for  the  renewal  of  hostilities. 
It  was  the  seat  of  the  retirement  of  Robert  Bruce,  King 
of  Scotland,  during  the  last  years  of  his  life,  when  he 
frequently  indulged  in  the  pleasures  of  the  chase.  On 
the  first  mile  of  the  road  leading  from  Dumbarton, 
some  knolly  ground,  covered  with  wood,  still  bears  the 
name  of  Castlehill  ;  and  though  no  remains  are  now  to 
be  seen  of  any  building,  it  is  probable  that  he  was  located 
in  a  castle  once  standing  here,  in  which  he  ended  his 
days,  in  1329.  The  parish,  which  is  situated  on  the 
northern  bank  of  the  Clyde,  is  eight  miles  in  extreme 
length,  and  varies  in  breadth  from  one  and  a  half  to 
three  miles  ;  it  contains  about  9600  acres,  of  which 
one-half  are  cultivated,  and  about  150  acres  are  under 
plantation.  The  surface  rises  from  the  Clyde,  by  a 
gentle  ascent,  till  it  reaches  its  highest  elevation,  at  the 
summits  of  the  Kiliter  and  Carman,  in  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish,  about  900  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
shore  is  marked  by  the  prominent  headland  of  Ardmore, 
which  rises  in  the  Clyde  to  a  height  of  forty  feet,  and 
is  connected  with  the  parish  by  an  isthmus  running 
from  the  flat  piece  of  land  by  which  the  rock  is  sur- 
rounded. 

The  soil,  on  the  banks  of  the  Clyde,  which  is  between 
one  and  two  miles  wide,  and  in  the  interior,  is  generally 
a  light  thin  mould  ;  on  the  higher  grounds,  it  has  a 
greater  depth,  and  rests  chiefly  on  a  tilly  subsoil.  In 
the  vicinity  of  the  vale  of  the  river  Leven,  in  the  south- 
eastern division,  is  a  rich  loam,  with  alluvial  deposits. 
On  the  estates  of  Dalquhurn  and  Camis-Eskan,  are 
plantations  of  larch,  fir,  and  oak,  in  a  flourishing  state ; 
178 


and  the  lands  of  Mildovan,  Kilmahew,  Kipperminshock, 
and  Ardoch,  have  infant  plantations  of  promising  ap- 
pearance. The  progress  of  agricultural  improvement, 
during  the  present  century,  has  been  very  considerable ; 
much  waste  land  has  been  reclaimed,  and  that  under 
cultivation  has  been  benefited  by  draining  and  manur- 
ing. The  live  stock  consists  principally  of  cattle  and 
sheep,  purchased  in  the  Highlands,  and  which  graze 
upon  the  extensive  tracts  of  moorland.  In  the  lower 
parts  of  the  parish,  tillage  and  dairy-farming,  to  a  great 
extent,  are  united,  the  latter  branch  having  been  much 
encouraged  by  the  introduction  of  the  best  Ayrshire 
cows,  and  by  the  cultivation  of  the  most  approved  bul- 
bous-rooted green  crops.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £14,375.  The  prevailing  rock  is  freestone, 
which,  in  the  eastern  district,  is  reddish  and  crumbling, 
but,  in  other  places,  of  a  light  grey  cast,  and  better 
consistence,  and  mixed  with  breccia.  The  promontory 
of  Ardmore  is  dark  red  breccia,  with  pebbles  of  quartz, 
and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Kiliter  range,  are  beds 
of  jasper,  lying  between  breccia  and  sandstone ;  in 
some  of  the  glens,  limestone  is  found,  but  the  sand  and 
magnesia  with  which  it  is  mixed  render  it  unfit  for 
agricultural  use,  although  it  has  been  occasionally 
wrought  to  a  small  extent. 

The  mansions  in  the  parish  include  the  ancient  houses 
of  Ardoch,  Kilmahew,  and  Camis-Eskan  ;  the  more 
modern  structures  are,  Keppoch,  Ardmore,  and  Bloom- 
hill.  At  Dalquhurn  works,  in  the  vicinity  of  Renton, 
calico-printing,  bleaching,  and  dyeing  are  carried  on, 
affording  employment  to  between  250  and  300  persons. 
There  is  an  inconsiderable  salmon-fishery  on  the  river 
Leven,  and  trout  and  salmon  are  taken  at  Ardmore  and 
Colgrain  ;  but  the  Yair  fisheries  on  the  Clyde,  once  so 
celebrated,  and  confirmed  by  several  royal  charters,  are 
now  almost  unproductive.  A  fair  is  held  on  the  first 
Wednesday  in  June,  for  black- cattle,  horses,  and  sheep. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery 
of  Dumbarton  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £155.  8.  9.,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  of  the  annual  value  of  £30 ;  the  patronage  is  in 
the  Crown.  The  church,  a  very  neat  structure,  was 
built  in  1S27,  and  accommodates  above  800  persons. 
There  is  a  missionary  station  at  Renton,  connected  with 
the  Established  Church  ;  also  a  meeting-house  belonging 
to  the  Original  Burgher  Synod  ;  and  places  of  worship 
have  been  erected  in  the  parish,  in  connexion  with  the 
Free  Church  and  Relief  Synod.  A  parochial  school  is 
supported,  in  which  Latin  is  taught,  with  the  usual 
brandies  of  education  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  about  £20  fees,  and  £15  from  a  piece  of  ground, 
granted  in  the  seventeenth  century,  by  the  family  of 
Napier ;  also  five  and  a  half  bolls  of  barley,  and  the  in- 
terest of  £100.  There  are  two  public  subscription 
libraries,  one  in  Renton,  containing  1000  volumes,  and  the 
other  at  Geilstone,  with  400  volumes ;  also  a  Sunday- 
school  library,  with  200  volumes.  The  poor  have  about 
£220  per  annum,  left  by  Mrs.  Moore,  and  now  under  the 
management  of  the  heritors  and  the  Kirk  Session.  Near 
Renton,  stands  the  ancient  house  of  Dalquhurn,  the 
birthplace  of  the  celebrated  Dr.  Tobias  Smollett,  author 
of  many  popular  works  ;  and  near  the  house,  a  Tuscan 
column  has  been  erected,  which  contains  an  elegant 
Latin  incription,  in  memory  of  the  doctor,  who  died  at 
Leghorn,  in  177 1- 


CARE 


CARG 


CARESTON,  a  parish,  in  tbe  county  of  Forfar, 
4  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Brechin  ;  containing  218  in- 
habitants. This  place,  originally  Caraldstone,  of  which 
its  present  appellation  is  simply  a  contraction,  derived 
that  name  from  a  stone  erected  over  the  grave  of  Carald, 
a  Danish  leader,  who  was  slain  here,  in  his  flight  from 
the  battle  of  Aberlemno,  in  the  reign  of  Malcolm  III. 
The  parish  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  one  mile 
in  average  breadth,  comprising  2056  acres,  of  which 
1422  are  arable,  280  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the 
remainder  meadow  and  pasture.  The  surface  rises  in 
gentle  undulations,  from  its  southern  boundary,  towards 
the  north,  and,  near  its  termination  in  that  direction, 
declines  gradually  to  the  confines  of  the  parish  of  Men- 
muir.  The  rivulet  of  Noran,  which  has  its  rise  in  the 
Grampians,  flows  with  a  rapid  current  through  the 
lands,  and  very  shortly  falls  into  the  South  Esk,  which 
also  intersects  the  parish,  and  forms  part  of  its  southern 
boundary.  The  soil  is  chiefly  a  rich  black  loam,  inter- 
spersed with  some  small  tracts  of  moor ;  the  chief  crops 
are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips ;  the 
system  of  agriculture  is  improved,  and  draining  has 
been  extensively  practised.  The  farm-buildings  are 
generally  commodious,  and  on  two  of  the  farms  are 
threshing-mills,  of  which  one  is  driven  by  water ;  the 
lands  are  inclosed,  partly  with  stone  dykes,  and  partly 
with  hedges  of  thorn.  The  cattle  are  generally  of  the 
native  black  breed ;  there  are  few  sheep  pastured  on 
the  lands ;  considerable  attention  is  paid  to  the  dairy, 
and  large  quantities  of  butter  and  cheese  are  sent  to  the 
Brechin  market.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £2717. 

The  principal  substrata  are  of  the  old  red  sandstone 
formation,  interspersed  with  beds  of  lias  ;  in  the  higher 
lands,  large  blocks  of  trap  rock  are  frequently  found, 
with  boulders  of  granite,  basalt,  and  green  stone.  The 
plantations,  which  are  in  a  thriving  state,  are  chiefly 
pine  and  larch,  with  birch,  elm,  beech,  and  Scotch  and 
spruce  firs  ;  and  on  the  demesne  of  Careston  Castle,  are 
lime,  ash,  poplar,  plane,  and  Spanish  and  horse-chesnut, 
of  which  some  have  attained  a  considerable  growth. 
Careston  Castle,  mainly  erected  by  one  of  the  earls  of 
Crawfurd,  in  the  fifteenth  century,  is  a  spacious  man- 
sion, with  two  boldly  projecting  wings,  connected  by  a 
corridor  in  front ;  the  west  wing,  which  is  the  more 
ancient,  is  supposed  to  have  been  added  by  one  of  the 
Carneggy  family,  and  the  eastern  by  Major  Skene,  soon 
after  he  purchased  the  property.  The  mansion  has  a 
stately  grandeur  of  appearance,  and  contains  numerous 
elegant  apartments,  elaborately  decorated.  Above  the 
mantel-piece  in  the  drawing-room,  are  the  royal  arms  of 
Scotland,  which  appear  to  have  been  granted  to  the  first 
Earl  of  Crawfurd ;  in  the  dining  room  are  the  armorial 
bearings  of  the  Earl  of  Airlie,  and  over  what  was  for- 
merly the  grand  entrance  to  the  castle,  are  those  of 
Carneggy  of  Balnamoon.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Brechin 
and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns.  The  minister's  sti- 
pend is  £158.  7.  6.,  of  which  one-half  is  paid  from  the 
exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £12  per 
annum  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Fife.  The  church,  erected 
in  1636,  and  repaired  in  180S,  is  a  plain  structure, 
conveniently  situated,  and  contains  200  sittings,  all  free. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  to  about  sixty 
children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
179 


and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £12.  The  late 
David  Skene,  Esq.,  bequeathed  £250,  in  aid  of  the  funds 
of  the  Kirk  Session. 

CARGILL,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth,  7| 
miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Perth ;  containing,  with  the 
villages  of  Burreltown,  Wolfhill,  and  Woodside,  1642 
inhabitants.  This  place,  of  which  the  name,  of  Celtic- 
origin,  signifies  a  village  with  a  church,  originally  fortned 
a  portion  of  the  parish  of  Cupar- Angus,  from  which, 
according  to  ancient  records,  it  was  separated  prior  to 
the  year  1514.  It  was  for  many  generations  the  chief 
seat  of  the  family  of  Drummond,  of  whom  Annabella, 
daughter  of  Sir  John  Drummond,  was  married  to 
Robert  III.,  King  of  Scotland,  and  crowned  with  that 
monarch,  at  Scone,  in  1390  ;  she  was  the  mother  of 
James  I.,  from  whom  descended  the  royal  family  of 
Stuart.  Stobhall,  the  seat  of  the  Drummonds,  now 
almost  in  a  ruinous  state,  came  into  the  possession  of 
the  family  by  the  marriage  of  Sir  John  Drummond  with 
Lady  Mary,  eldest  daughter  of  Sir  William  de  Montifex, 
lord  justiciary  of  Scotland.  The  ancient  mansion,  which 
appears  to  have  been  built  at  different  periods,  is  roman- 
tically situated  on  a  narrow  tongue  of  land,  on  the  banks 
of  the  river  Tay. 

The  parish,  which  is  in  the  valley  of  Strathmore,  is 
about  six  miles  in  length,  and  four  in  average  breadth  ; 
the  surface  is  diversified,  and  bounded  on  the  west  and 
north-west  by  the  Tay,  and  on  the  north  by  the  river  Isla, 
which  flows  into  the  Tay  about  half  a  mile  above  the 
village  of  Cargill.  The  land  rises,  by  a  gradual  ascent, 
from  the  margin  of  the  river,  for  nearly  a  mile,  till  it 
attains  an  elevated  plain,  varied  with  occasional  emi- 
nences interspersed  with  small  glens  ;  the  Sidlaw  hills 
form  the  eastern  boundary.  The  scenery  is  pleasingly 
enriched  with  plantations,  chiefly  of  Scotch  fir,  with 
coppices  of  birch  and  oak ;  the  native  woods,  which 
were  formerly  extensive,  and  afforded  secure  conceal- 
ment to  Sir  William  Wallace  and  his  adherents  from 
the  pursuit  of  their  enemies,  are  greatly  diminished. 
The  soil,  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  on  the  lower 
lands,  is  a  humid  clay,  but  fertile,  producing  abundant 
crops  of  grain,  and  gradually  inclines,  as  the  ground 
ascends,  to  a  rocky  marl  ;  towards  the  base  of  the 
hills,  it  is  a  light  dry  gravel,  and,  on  the  summit  of  the 
elevated  plain,  partly  loam  and  moorland.  The  system 
of  agriculture  is  in  an  improved  state,  but  much  yet 
remains  to  be  done.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £7786.  The  Tay  is  navigable  to  Perth  ;  it 
abounds  with  salmon,  of  which  there  is  a  valuable 
fishery,  and  with  trout  and  pike,  and  is  a  favourite  resort 
for  anglers;  near  the  west  end  of  the  parish,  it  flows 
over  a  rugged  basaltic  dyke,  where  it  forms  a  pictu- 
resque fall  called  the  Linn  of  Campsie. 

The  substratum  is  chiefly  freestone,  of  good  quality, 
and  of  excellent  colour,  which  has  been  extensively 
wrought;  limestone  is  also  found,  but  is  not  much  in 
operation,  and  rock  marl  of  a  reddish  colour  is  abun- 
dant, and  might  be  rendered  available  to  the  improve- 
ment of  the  moorlands  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  parish. 
The  only  manufacture  carried  on,  is  the  weaving  of 
linen  for  the  Dundee  manufacturers,  which  affords  em- 
ployment to  a  few  families.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of 
Dunkeld  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling ;  the  patron- 
age   is    in    the  Crown,    and   the  minister's    stipend   is 

2  A  2 


CARL 


CAUL 


£■224.  16.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £14. 
The  church  is  a  neat  and  well-arranged  structure,  erected 
in  1S32,  and  situated  on  the  sloping  bank  of  the  river 
Tay.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church.  The  parochial  school  is  well  attended ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  gar- 
den, and  the  fees  average  about  £15,  to  which  Lady 
Willoughby  de  Eresby  adds  £10,  for  teaching  the  poor 
gratuitously.  There  were  traces,  till  within  the  last  few 
years,  of  a  Roman  station  and  road  ;  but  under  the  ex- 
tension and  improvements  in  agriculture,  they  have  been 
almost  entirely  obliterated.  Near  the  Linn  of  Campsie, 
was  an  ancient  cell  dependent  on  the  abbey  of  Cupar- 
Angus  :  but  only  very  slight  vestiges  of  it  can  be  traced. 
Stobhall  gave  the  title  of  Baron  to  the  earls  of  Perth, 
who  were  lords  Drummond  and  Stobhall,  till  the  for- 
feiture in  1746. 

CARLAVEROCK,    Dumfries.  —  See  Caerlave- 

ROCK. 

CARLOPS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Linton, 
county  of  Peebles  ;  containing  153  inhabitants.  This 
village,  which  is  pleasantly  situated,  is  irregularly  built 
on  the  banks  of  a  rivulet  falling  into  the  North  Esk  ; 
it  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  persons  employed  in  weav- 
ing cotton  for  the  manufacturers  of  Glasgow  and 
Paisley.  Coal  and  lime  are  wrought  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood.  Carlops  is  a  popular  abbreviation  of 
Carting's  Loups,  localities  in  the  vicinity  so  named  in 
allusion  to  acts  of  a  witch  of  former  times,  who  is  said 
to  have  furnished  to  Allan  Ramsay  the  character  of 
Mause  in  the  Gentle  Shepherd,  the  scenery  of  which 
poem  is  in  the  neighbourhood.  Near  the  village  is  a 
rock  of  freestone,  impending  over  a  narrow  glen  ;  it  is 
called  Harbour  Craig,  and,  in  this  sequestered  place, 
has  a  strikingly  romantic  appearauce. 

CARLUKE,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark;  including  the  villages  of  Braid- 
wood,  Kilcadzow,  and  Yieldshields ;  and  containing 
4802  inhabitants,  of  whom  2090  are  in  the  village  of 
Carluke,  5  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Lanark.  The  name 
appears  to  have  been  derived  from  the  word  Caer,  sig- 
nifying "  a  hill,"  and  Luac,  "  Luke,"  in  reference  to  the 
dedication  of  the  church,  and  to  the  elevated  site  of  the 
parish.  The  first  historical  traces  of  the  district  are 
connected  with  the  reign  of  David  I.,  when  the  founder 
of  the  Lockhart  family,  whose  descendant  is  still  the 
principal  heritor,  came  into  Scotland  with  some  other 
Norman  families,  and  settled  here.  The  lands  of  Kirk- 
ton,  in  the  parish,  anciently  belonged  to  the  abbey  of 
Kelso,  and  were  erected  into  a  barony  in  1662,  by 
Charles  II.,  in  favour  of  Walter  Lockhart,  a  cadet  of  the 
family  of  Wicketshavv,  at  that  time  the  proprietors.  By 
a  charter  of  Robert  I.,  that  monarch  granted  to  the 
monks  of  Lesmahago  ten  merks  yearly  from  the  re- 
venue of  his  mills  at  Mauldslie,  in  Carluke,  for  support- 
ing the  expense  of  lights  at  the  tomb  of  St.  Macute  ; 
and  in  a  subsequent  charter  of  the  8th  of  March,  1315, 
ten  merks  yearly  were  bestowed  upon  the  same  monks, 
from  the  mills,  to  supply  eight  wax  lights  for  the  tomb 
on  Sundays  and  festivals.  In  this  reign,  also,  the 
church,  with  all  its  rights,  was  given  by  the  king  to 
the  monks  of  Kelso,  who  performed  its  duties  by  a 
curate,  and  continued  in  the  possession  of  its  revenues 
till  the  Reformation. 

The  parish  is  about  eight  miles  long,   from  east  to 
180 


west,  and  about  four  and  a  half  broad,  containing 
15,360  acres;  it  is  bounded  on  the  south-west  by  the 
Clyde,  and  on  the  west  by  Garrion  Gill.  The  surface  is 
considerably  diversified,  consisting  of  level  ground,  ac- 
clivities, hills,  and  valleys,  clothed  in  many  parts  with 
luxuriant  pasture,  and  ornamented  with  picturesque 
scenery,  interspersed  with  numerous  neat  and  com- 
fortable cottages,  and  elegant  mansions,  and  enlivened 
and  irrigated  by  the  beautiful  meanderings  of  the  Clyde. 
Close  to  this  river  is  a  long  narrow  tract  of  sloping 
ground  of  rich  quality,  after  which  the  land  rises  in  an 
easterly  direction,  400  or  500  feet  above  the  sea.  From 
the  highest  point  of  this  land,  along  which  runs  a  ridge 
of  sandstone,  a  level  is  continued  as  far  as  the  village, 
terminating  in  an  extensive  hill  called  the  Law  of 
Mauldslie ;  and  at  the  back  of  the  village,  the  surface 
again  rises  towards  the  east,  and  terminates  in  a  wild 
moor.  The  principal  hills  are,  Kilcadzow,  Lee,  King's, 
and  Mauldslie,  the  last  of  which  is  the  most  lofty,  rising 
upwards  of  800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
most  interesting  view  of  the  district  is  from  the  Lanark 
and  Glasgow  road,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Clyde, 
from  which  point  are  seen  the  banks  of  the  river, 
adorned  with  fruit  and  forest  trees,  and  the  numerous 
rills  issuing  from  the  concealed  and  romantic  glens  and 
ravines,  and  eventually  falling  into  the  Clyde. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  river,  the  soil  is  a  rich 
loam  ;  generally,  it  is  various  ;  in  some  parts,  light  and 
sandy,  and  famed  for  its  large  crops  of  apples  and  pears. 
The  whole  rests  on  a  subsoil  of  clay,  of  widely  different 
appearance  and  quality ;  grain  to  a  large  amount  is 
produced,  and  potatoes,  turnips,  and  hay  are  likewise 
raised.  The  system  of  husbandry  here  followed,  on 
account  of  the  peculiar  character  of  the  soil  and  other 
circumstances,  is  somewhat  different  from  that  gene- 
rally used  in  other  districts.  The  rotation  of  crops  is 
not  much  approved  ;  the  course  preferred,  except  upon 
the  rich  tracts  near  the  Clyde,  is  to  convert  the  land  into 
permanent  pasture,  breaking  it  up  only  every  fifth  or 
sixth  year  for  a  crop  of  oats.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £13,437-  The  rocks  consist  of  lime- 
stone, sandstone,  and  ironstone,  which,  with  various 
kinds  of  coal  and  clay,  are  found  in  large  quantities  ; 
the  limestone,  with  one  exception,  all  lies  under  the 
coal,  which  latter  is  quarried  to  a  very  great  extent,  and 
is  of  excellent  quality.  Between  the  coal  and  limestone, 
the  beds  of  sandstone  occur,  which,  with  numerous 
layers  of  freestone,  supply  the  best  materials  for  build- 
ing ;  a  ridge  of  trap  runs  eastward,  from  Hillhead  to 
Bashaw,  and  quartz  and  agate  are  both  found  in  the 
old  red  sandstone.  One  of  the  chief  mansions  is  Mauld- 
slie Castle,  built  in  1793,  by  the  Earl  of  Hyndford,  an 
elegant  structure,  ornamented  with  turrets,  and  situated 
in  a  well-wooded  park,  through  which  the-  Clyde  flows 
for  about  a  mile.  The  mansion  of  Milton-Lockhart, 
lately  built,  stands  upon  a  point  of  land  projecting  into 
the  valley  of  the  Clyde,  and  beautifully  skirted  with 
deep  glens  and  thick  woods  ;  the  proprietor  has  built 
a  bridge  of  three  arches  over  the  river,  after  the  model 
of  Bothwell  bridge.  Braidwood  House  stands  on  an 
eminence  above  the  same  vale,  and  is  a  handsome  and 
commodious  structure.  Carluke  was  erected  in  1662 
into  a  burgh  of  barony,  under  the  name  of  Kirkstyle, 
with  the  privilege  of  holding  a  weekly  market,  and  a 
fair  twice  in  the  year;   a  tax  of  sixpence  in  the  pound, 


CAR  M 


CAR,  M 


nn  house-rent,  is  levied  for  the  support  of  constables, 
and  for  cleaning  and  lighting  the  streets.  The  popula- 
tion of  the  town,  a  few  years  ago,  was  insignificant ;  but 
there  is  now  a  variety  of  good  shops,  and  a  post-office 
has  been  established  under  Lanark.  The  inhabitants  of 
the  parish  are  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  and  in 
quarrying  freestone,  limestone,  ironstone,  and  coal : 
fairs  are  held,  one  on  the  21st  May,  and  another  on 
the  31st  October,  at  which  there  is  a  very  considerable 
traffic  in  milch  cows.  The  Stirling  and  Carlisle  turn- 
pike-road, and  the  road  between  Glasgow  and  Carn- 
wath,  run  through  the  parish. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  pres- 
bytery of  Lanark  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  the 
patronage  is  exercised  by  Sir  N.  M.  Lockhart,  Bart., 
and  the  minister's  stipend  is  £"262,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £30  per  annum.  The  church,  which  is 
a  substantial  building,  containing  1000  sittings,  was 
built  in  1799,  at  an  expense  of  £1000.  There  are 
places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Relief  and  Asso- 
ciate Synods  ;  also  a  parochial  school,  in  which  Latin  is 
taught,  with  all  the  usual  branches  of  education,  and 
the  master  of  which  has  a  salary  of  £34,  and  £50  fees, 
with  a  house  and  garden.  A  parochial  library  was 
founded  in  1S27,  and  a  society  for  the  promotion  of 
useful  knowledge  in  1S36;  there  is  also  an  agricultural 
society,  instituted  in  1833,  for  the  purpose  of  encou- 
raging improvements  in  the  breed  of  cattle.  The  great 
Roman  road,  through  Clydesdale,  to  the  wall  of  Anto- 
ninus, passed  through  the  parish  ;  not  far  from  it,  at 
Cairney  Mount  and  at  Law,  several  coffins  have  been 
found,  constructed  of  large  stones,  and  containing  urns 
and  ashes.  Flint  arrow-heads,  hatchets,  and  numerous 
coins,  both  silver  and  gold,  of  Roman  origin,  have 
been  also  found,  at  Burnhead  and  Castlehill.  In  a  dell 
in  the  parish,  is  a  very  ancient  tower  called  Hallbar, 
fifty-two  feet  high,  and  twenty-four  feet  square  on  the 
outside,  having  a  vault  beneath,  and  three  apartments, 
the  uppermost  of  which  has  an  arched  roof;  it  is  sup- 
posed, from  mention  of  it  in  a  deed  dated  16S5,  to 
have  been  attached  to  the  barony  of  Braidwood.  At 
Hang-hill,  near  Mauldslie  Castle,  is  an  old  burial- 
ground  of  several  acres  in  extent,  covered  with  large 
trees  sixty  or  seventy  feet  high,  and  in  which  the  two 
last  earls  of  Hyndford  were  interred.  On  the  estate  of 
Milton-Lockhart,  part  of  an  ancient  fort  still  remains, 
in  which  the  celebrated  William  Wallace  once  found 
refuge  from  the  pursuit  of  his  enemies.  Major-General 
Roy,  the  celebrated  engineer,  and  author  of  a  standard 
work  on  Roman  Antiquities,  was  a  native  of  Carluke. 

CARMICHAEL,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper  ward  of 
the  county  of  Lanark,  5  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Lanark, 
containing  S74  inhabitants.  This  place  derives  its  name 
from  St.  Michael,  to  whom  its  first  church  was  dedi- 
cated. The  remains  of  antiquity  of  which  historical 
use  can  be  made,  are  very  few ;  in  the  south-west 
corner  of  the  parish  are  vestiges  of  a  camp  and 
military  station,  and  a  few  years  ago,  a  large  coffin 
constructed  of  sandstone  was  found,  but  destitute  of 
any  mark  to  guide  opinion  as  to  its  probable  origin. 
On  the  summit  of  the  lofty  mountain  of  Tinto,  is  a 
cairn  or  heap  of  stones ;  and  in  some  parts,  are  stone 
crosses,  all  of  which  point  out  the  places  of  military 
occupation  and  engagement,  concerning  the  particular 
facts  of  which  nothing  determinate  is  on  record.  The 
181 


ancient  and  illustrious  family  of  Carmichael  occupy  the 
most  prominent  place  in  the  civil  history  of  the 
parish  :  one  of  its  members,  John,  second  Lord  Car- 
michael, born  in  1672,  was  created  Earl  of  Hyndford 
in  1701,  and  filled  a  succession  of  honourable  and 
important  offices  to  the  time  of  his  death,  which  took 
place   on   his  estate  here. 

The  length  of  the  parish,  from  south-west  to  north- 
east, is  six  miles,  and  its  extreme  breadth  nearly  five 
miles;  it  contains  about  11,G30  imperial  acres,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Clyde  river,  from  its 
confluence  with  Douglas  water  to  Mill-hill,  and  inter- 
sected by  the  roads  from  Carlisle  to  Stirling,  and 
Edinburgh  to  Ayr.  The  surface  presents  numerous 
irregularities,  consisting  of  hill  and  valley,  breaks,  and 
sweeping  undulations,  crowned,  in  the  south-eastern 
part,  by  the  lofty  and  celebrated  mountain  of  Tinto, 
which  rises  to  an  elevation  of  about  2400  feet.  This 
majestic  hill,  the  name  of  which  is  said  to  signify 
"the  hill  of  fire,"  from  the  fires  formerly  kindled  upon 
it,  commands  an  interesting  and  extensive  view  of  the 
lower  elevations  of  Carmichael,  Druinalbin,  Whitecastle, 
Crossridge,  and  Stonehill  hills,  all  in  the  parish,  the 
ground  gradually  sinking  to  the  northern  extremity. 
The  climate  is  cold;  and  the  surface  is  covered,  in 
many  parts,  with  poor  pasture,  and  only  in  the  highly 
cultivated  grounds  has  an  agreeable  aspect.  The  soil, 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Clyde,  is  thin  and  sandy  ;  in  other 
parts,  a  good  deep  loam,  but  in  the  arable  districts, 
generally  damp  and  clayey,  resting  upon  an  impervious 
till  or  ferruginous  clay,  with  a  considerable  mixture 
of  marine  stones.  The  number  of  acres  (Scotch)  under 
cultivation  is,  4702  arable,  and  3S15  pasture ;  735  acres 
are  plantations,  which  consist  of  oak,  ash,  elm,  plane, 
beech,  alder,  poplar,  birch,  and  horse-chesnut.  The 
crops  generally  raised  are,  oats,  barley,  bear,  peas,  pota- 
toes, turnips,  rye-grass,  and  meadow  hay,  the  first  of 
which  greatly  predominates  ;  the  cattle  are  of  the  Ayr- 
shire breed,  and  the  sheep  are  the  black-faced,  with  a 
few  Cheviots.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  excellent, 
and  numerous  improvements  have  been  introduced  of 
late  years ;  the  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£52S0. 

The  prevailing  rock  is  the  old  red  sandstone,  which 
is  good  for  building  houses  or  fences,  and  is  abundant 
in  the  hills  of  Carmichael,  Whitecastle,  and  Drumalbin  ; 
felspar  porphyry,  in  some  places,  lies  near  the  sand- 
stone, and  in  the  Crossridge  hill  is  a  stratum  of  clay- 
slate,  passing  into  greywacke  slate.  Blocks  of  quartz 
are  sometimes  seen,  exposed  by  the  action  of  the 
streams ;  and  blocks  of  gneiss  have  been  found,  de- 
posited in  alluvial  soil,  whither  it  is  supposed  they 
had  been  carried  by  the  violence  of  the  rivers.  There 
are  quarries  of  limestone  and  sandstone.  Carmichael 
House,  an  ancient  and  magnificent  baronial  residence, 
for  many  generations  the  seat  of  the  family  of  the 
same  name,  is  encompassed  by  aged  and  lofty  trees, 
and  extensive  grounds  and  plantations,  which  were 
greatly  improved  by  John,  Earl  of  Hyndford.  The 
mansion  of  Eastend,  comparatively  a  modem  structure, 
is  elegant  and  commodious.  There  is  a  tan-work  in 
the  parish,  in  a  prosperous  state;  also  an  establish- 
ment for  the  currying  of  leather,  which  is  carried  on 
with  considerable  profit.  At  Carmichael  Mill,  is  a 
foundry,    which    supplies    most   of  the    iron-work   for 


CARM 


C  A  R  M 


threshing-mills  and  other  machinery  used  in  the  parish  ; 
and  there  are  thirty  hands  employed  as  weavers.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  direction  of  the 
presbytery  of  Lanark  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ; 
the  patronage  is  exercised  by  Sir  W.  Carmichael  An- 
struther,  Bart.,  and  the  minister's  stipend  is  £225. 
The  church,  a  cruciform  building,  erected  in  1750,  is 
in  good  repair,  and  accommodates  between  400  and 
500  persons ;  the  manse  was  built  at  the  same  time, 
and  considerably  enlarged  some  years  ago,  and  is  sup- 
plied with  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  There  is 
a  parochial  school,  in  which  are  taught  the  classics, 
French,  and  mathematics,  with  all  the  usual  branches 
of  education ;  the  salary  is  £32,  with  more  than  the 
legal  accommodations,  and  fees  of  about  £26.  S.  Another 
school,  at  Ponfeigh,  is  supported  partly  by  the  heritors  ; 
and  there  is  a  savings'-bank,  established  in  IS  14. 

CARMUNNOCK,  a  parish,  in  the  Lower  ward  of 
the  county  of  Lanark  ;  containing  717  inhabitants,  of 
whom  390  are  in  the  village,  5  miles  (S.)  from  Glasgow. 
The  name  of  this  place  is  supposed  to  have  been  derived 
from  the  compound  Gaelic  word  Caer-mannock,  signifying 
"  the  monk's  fort."  The  remains  of  antiquity  here 
bear  testimony  to  the  settlement  and  military  opera- 
tions of  the  Romans  ;  vestiges  of  a  military  road  and 
camp,  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  estate  of  Castlemilk, 
and  pieces  of  ancient  armour,  with  a  variety  of  utensils, 
have  been  found.  In  the  reign  of  William  the  Lion, 
the  manor  was  held  by  Henry,  son  of  Anselm,  who 
assumed  the  name  of  Henry  of  "  Cormanock."  Some 
time  before  the  year  11S9,  he  granted  the  church  to 
the  monks  of  Paisley,  with  half  a-carucate  of  land, 
and  a  right  of  common,  and  directed  that  his  remains, 
and  those  of  his  wife,  should  be  interred  in  the  mo- 
nastery. The  church  was  held  by  the  monks  till  the 
Reformation.  The  parish  is  about  four  miles  long, 
from  north-east  to  south-west,  and  averages  about  two 
and  a  half  in  breadth ;  it  contains  2810  Scotch  acres,  of 
which  2400  are  arable,  and  under  a  regular  system  of 
cultivation,  250  wood,  and  106  pasture,  the  remainder 
being  roads,  &c.  The  surface  is  considerably  elevated, 
and  exhibits  a  succession  of  hill  and  dale,  varied  with 
extensive  and  flourishing  plantations,  and  enlivened  by 
the  beautiful  meanderings  of  the  river  Cart,  on  the 
western  boundary  of  the  parish,  which  here  borders  on 
Renfrewshire.  From  the  summit  of  Cathkin-hill,  near 
the  eastern  boundary,  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  500  feet 
above  the  sea,  the  prospect  embraces  parts  of  sixteen 
counties,  the  nearer  group  consisting  of  the  city  of 
Glasgow,  with  its  surrounding  villages,  the  towns  of 
Rutherglen  and  Paisley,  and  the  vale  of  Clyde,  from 
Hamilton  to  Dumbarton.  The  parish  abounds  with 
springs,  and  there  are  five  public  wells  of  good  water ; 
but  the  only  river  running  through  it  is  a  small  stream 
called  the  Kittoch. 

The  soil,  which  is  generally  uniform,  consists  of  good 
earth,  about  six  or  seven  inches  deep,  and  resting  upon 
a  superior  whinstone  rock,  which  extends  throughout 
the  parish.  In  some  spots,  it  is  more  moist  and  clayey, 
with  a  retentive  bottom,  yet  yielding  excellent  crops 
when  well  drained  and  manured  ;  in  a  few  places,  it  is 
considerably  mixed  with  sand,  and  too  much  impo- 
verished to  be  applied  to  any  use  but  that  of  common 
pasture.  Crops  of  all  kinds  are  raised,  and,  on  account 
of  the  highly  cultivated  state  of  the  soil,  are  of  the 
182 


highest  order  ;  and  the  greatest  encouragement  is  given 
to  dairy-farming,  both  for  the  superior  profit  it  brings 
to  the  tenant,  and  for  the  manure.  The  cows  are  all 
of  the  Ayrshire  breed  ;  many  improvements  have  taken 
place  in  agriculture  within  the  last  few  years,  and 
furrow-draining  with  tiles  has  been  extensively  practised. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5511. 
There  is  a  considerable  quarry  of  freestone,  of  good 
quality;  and  on  the  estate  of  Castlemilk,  excellent 
limestone  and  ironstone  are  found,  the  latter  of  which 
has  been  partially  wrought.  The  village  population  are 
chiefly  hand-loom  weavers  ;  seven  annual  fairs  are 
held,  some  of  which  are  for  the  sale  of  horses  and 
cows.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  pres- 
bytery of  Glasgow  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ; 
patron,  J.  S.  S.  Stuart,  Esq.  An  excellent  manse  has 
been  lately  built,  to  which  there  is  a  glebe  valued  at  £19 
per  annum;  and  the  stipend  is  £152.  17.  6.,  of  which 
£39.  10.  10.  are  received  from  the  exchequer.  The 
church,  which  is  situated  in  the  middle  of  the  village, 
was  built  in  1767,  and  repaired  in  1838  ;  it  is  a  neat 
and  convenient  structure,  and  seats  about  450  persons. 
There  is  a  dissenters'  place  of  worship ;  also  a  paro- 
chial school,  in  which  the  usual  branches  of  a  plain 
education  are  taught,  and  the  master  of  which  has  the 
maximum  salary,  and  about  £32  fees,  with  a  house 
and  garden.  An  old  thorn-tree  here,  is  much  regarded, 
as  marking  out  the-  spot  from  which  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots,  was  a  spectator  of  the  defeat  of  her  army  at  the 
battle  of  Langside. 

CARMYLE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Old  Monk- 
land,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  4-§  miles 
(S.  E.  by  E.)  from  Glasgow  ;  containing  238  inhabitants. 
This  village,  which  is  remarkable  for  its  beautiful  situ- 
ation, and  fine  southern  aspect,  is  seated  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Clyde,  and  owes  its  origin  to  the  establish- 
ment of  a  muslin  manufactory,  about  the  year  174 1,  by 
Mr.  Mackenzie,  a  merchant  of  Glasgow. 

CARMYLIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar, 
6  miles  (W.  by  N.)  from  Arbroath  ;  containing,  with 
the  hamlet  of  Graystone,  1107  inhabitants.  The  name 
is  supposed  to  be  derived  from  a  Celtic  word,  signify- 
ing "the  top  of  a  high  rocky  place,"  which  description 
answers  to  a  castle  formerly  standing  here.  At  Car- 
buddo,  not  far  from  the  parish,  are  the  remains  of  a 
camp,  indicating  the  occupation  of  the  ground,  in 
ancient  times,  by  the  Romans,  who  are  said  to  have 
reduced  the  forts  of  Carmylie  and  Carnegie  in  the  year 
139.  At  a  very  early  period,  the  lands  belonged  to  the 
abbey  of  Aberbrothock,  whence  the  monks  came  to 
perform  divine  service  at  a  chapel  here,  more  ancient 
than  the  abbey,  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  called 
in  old  writings,  "  Our  Lady's  chapel  of  Carmylie ;"  its 
site  is  occupied  by  the  present  church.  The  parish  is 
about  six  miles  long,  and  its  mean  breadth  three  miles  ; 
it  is  bounded  by  portions  of  eight  parishes,  and  forms  a 
part  of  the  range  of  the  Sidlaw  hills,  exhibiting  a  series 
of  acclivities,  which  are  cultivated  throughout,  and  rise 
200  feet  above  the  lowest  ground  in  the  parish.  These 
hills  are  nearly  all  of  equal  height,  and  are  about  5S0  feet 
above  the  sea,  commanding,  on  one  side,  a  beautiful  and 
extensive  prospect  of  the  Grampian  mountains,  and,  on 
the  other,  of  the  German  Ocean  and  the  coast  of  Fife, 
and,  sometimes,  the  Lammermoor  hills.  The  only 
stream  of  any  note  is  the  Elliot  or  Elot,  which  rises  in  a 


CAR  M 


CARN 


moss  called  Diltymoss,   and,  after  a  course  of  about 
eight  miles,  falls  into  the  sea  at  Arbirlot. 

The  soil  most  prevalent  is  a  dark  rich-looking  mould, 
which  receives  its  hue,  partly  from  a  mixture  of  moss, 
and  partly  from  moisture  ;  a  light  dry  soil  is  found  on 
some  of  the  higher  slopes,  and  in  the  valleys  near  the 
streams  is  a  rich  fertile  mould,  with  alluvial  deposits. 
There  are  about  200  acres  of  moss,  much  moor,  and 
355  acres  of  plantation,  consisting  of  Scotch  and  spruce 
fir,  larch,  and  the  ordinary  kinds  of  hard-wood ;  the  crops 
are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  turnips,  potatoes,  hay,  and  peas. 
Great  improvements  have  been  made  in  husbandry 
within  the  last  half  century,  by  the  conversion  of  pas- 
ture into  arable  land,  by  draining  marshes  and  mosses, 
and  reclaiming  wastes  ;  also  by  inclosures,  raising  good 
farm-buildings,  and  introducing  the  best  system  of  cul- 
tivation. The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£892S.  The  subsoil  is  chiefly  a  stiff  retentive  clay, 
requiring  frequent  and  deep  draining;  and  the  rock 
most  common,  especially  in  the  higher  lands,  is  the 
red  or  grey  sandstone,  covered  with  the  whinstone  called 
scurdy.  At  Conansythe,  a  large  quantity  of  steatite  has 
been  found,  of  red  hue,  variegated  with  white  veins,  and 
suited  to  the  manufacture  of  superior  porcelain.  There 
are  also  several  good  quarries  in  the  parish,  regularly 
worked,  the  stone  and  slate  of  which  are  suited  for 
pavement,  and  for  columns,  balusters,  and  various  other 
ornaments  in  buildings,  and  are  sent  to  all  the  large 
towns  in  Scotland,  and  to  London ;  the  slate  is  of  every 
size,  colour,  and  texture,  and  many  pieces  of  it,  beauti- 
fully variegated  with  spots,  when  polished,  imitate  a 
fine  marble. 

The  parish  contains  two  convenient  and  elegant  man- 
sions, built  of  the  native  sandstone.  That  of  Guynd  is 
situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Elot  river,  and  orna- 
mented with  several  beautiful  plantations  ;  the  other, 
which  stands  on  high  ground,  commands  an  interest- 
ing view  of  the  vales  of  the  Lunan  and  the  Brothock. 
The  population  has  greatly  increased  within  the  present 
century,  owing  to  the  manufacture  of  coarse  linen,  such 
as  sheetings,  dowlas,  Osnaburghs,  &c,  and  to  the  large 
number  of  hands  employed  in  the  quarries.  A  yearly 
cattle-market  is  held  about  the  end  of  April,  or  begin- 
ning of  May.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish 
are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Arbroath  and  synod 
of  Angus  and  Mearns.  There  is  a  good  manse,  built  in 
1S20,  with  a  glebe  valued  at  £30  per  annum,  and  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £158.  S.,  of  which  a  portion  is 
received  from  the  exchequer;  the  patronage  is  in  the 
Crown.  The  church,  which  is  ancient,  is  conveniently 
situated,  and  is  a  substantial  building,  accommodating 
500  persons.  A  congregation  has  been  formed  here  in 
connexion  with  the  Free  Church  ;  and  there  is  a  paro- 
chial school,  in  which  are  taught  Latin,  and  all  the 
branches  of  an  ordinary  education,  and  the  master  of 
which  has  the  maximum  salary,  with  about  £18  fees, 
and  a  house  and  garden.  A  library  was  instituted  in 
1S2S,  and  is  partly  under  the  direction  of  the  Kirk  Ses- 
sion. At  the  Den  of  Guynd,  are  the  remains  of  a  fort 
called  Dunhead,  supposed  to  be  of  Caledonian  origin, 
and  afterwards  to  have  been  occupied  by  the  Danes ;  it 
is  of  triangular  form,  and  appears  to  have  been  en- 
compassed by  a  ditch  and  wall.  Urns,  and  human 
bones,  have  been  found  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  latter 
supposed  to  be  of  the  Danes  who  fell  in  the  battle  of 
1S3 


Barrie,  when  they  were  defeated  under  Malcolm  II. 
There  are  several  chalybeate  springs,  the  strongest  of 
which  is  one  in  the  Den  of  Guynd. 

CARNBEE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  St.  An- 
drew's, county  of  Fife,  2  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Pit- 
tenweem  ;  containing  1043  inhabitants.  This  parish, 
which  is  situated  in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  county, 
is  above  four  miles  in  length,  and  nearly  of  equal  breadth, 
comprising  about  5600  acres,  of  which  more  than  3000 
are  arable,  and  the  remainder,  with  the  exception  of  a 
moderate  proportion  of  woodland  and  plantations,  mea- 
dow and  pasture.  The  surface  is  diversified  with  hills 
of  conical  form,  of  which  the  most  conspicuous  is  Kellie 
Law,  rising  to  the  height  of  S10  feet,  and  commanding 
from  the  summit,  a  fine  view  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  the 
German  Sea,  and  the  coasts  of  Haddington  and  Mid 
Lothian,  with  the  city  of  Edinburgh  in  the  distance. 
Nearly  one-half  of  this  hill  is  arable,  and  the  remainder 
is  covered  with  verdure  to  the  summit ;  the  hills  of 
Carnbee  Law,  Cumner,  and  Gelland  are  of  similar  form, 
rising  to  a  considerable  height,  and  affording  excellent 
pasturage.  The  lands  are  watered  by  several  small 
burns,  which  flow  in  various  directions.  The  soil  is 
mostly  fertile  ;  in  some  parts,  a  clayey  loam,  in  others, 
a  rich  black  mould  of  great  depth ;  and  the  pastures 
generally  are  luxuriant.  The  chief  crops  are,  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  peas,  beans,  potatoes,  and  turnips ;  the 
system  of  husbandry  is  greatly  improved  ;  around  the 
mansions  of  the  principal  proprietors  may  be  seen  the 
remnants  of  ancient  timber,  and  the  plantations  of 
more  recent  date  are  in  a  thriving  state.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £11,390.  The  substrata 
are  chiefly  coal,  which  is  generally  prevalent  throughout 
the  parish,  and  of  which  two  mines  are  in  operation  ; 
and  limestone  and  freestone  of  excellent  quality,  which 
are  both  extensively  quarried. 

Kellie  Castle,  for  many  generations  the  baronial  seat 
of  the  earls  of  Kellie,  and  now  the  property  of  the  Earl 
of  Mar  and  Kellie,  was  once  a  noble  mansion,  contain- 
ing many  stately  apartments,  and  situated  near  the 
base  of  Kellie  Law,  in  a  richly-wooded  demesne.  Bal- 
caskie  House,  near  the  southern  boundary  of  the  parish, 
is  surrounded  with  grounds  tastefully  laid  out ;  and 
Pitcorthie  House  and  Gibliston  are  also  handsome  resi- 
dences. The  village,  which  is  small,  is  chiefl)'  inhabited 
by  persons  employed  in  the  coal-works.  The  ecclesias- 
tical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  pres- 
bytery of  St.  Andrew's  and  synod  of  Fife ;  the  minis- 
ter's stipend  is  £23S.  1J-,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £30  per  annum  ;  patron,  Sir  Ralph  Ans- 
truther,  Bart.  The  ancient  church  has  been  replaced 
by  a  neat  structure,  erected  in  1794.  The  parochial 
school  is  well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £25. 
Among  persons  connected  with  the  parish,  have  been, 
Hugo  Arnott,  author  of  State  Trials,  and  Archibald 
Constable,  the  eminent  publisher,  of  whom,  the  latter 
was  a  native  of  Carnbee. 

CARNIE-HILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Auch- 
tergaven,  county  of  Perth,  5|  miles  (S.  E.  by  S.)  from 
Dunkeld  ;  containing  133  inhabitants.  This  village, 
which  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Perth  to  Dunkeld,  on 
the  summit  of  an  elevated  ridge,  at  the  base  of  which  is 
the  village  of  Bankfoot,  is  almost  identified  with  that 
place.     It  is   of  recent  origin,  having,  like  Bankfoot, 


C  A  R  N 


CARN 


been  built  within  the  present  century,  on  land  belong- 
ing to  Mr.  Wylie.  The  houses  are  neat,  and,  from  their 
elevated  site,  command  extensive  and  finely-varied 
prospects  of  the  adjacent  country,  which  is  well  culti- 
vated, and  abounds  with  interesting  scenery.  The  in- 
habitants are  chiefly  employed  in  weaving  for  the 
manufacturers  of  Dundee,  Arbroath,  and  other  towns. 

CARNOCH,  or  Strath conon,  late  a  quoad  sacra 
parish,  20  miles  (W.)  from  Dingwall;  consisting  of  parts 
of  the  parishes  of  Contin,  Fodderty,  and  Urray, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty;  and  containing  563 
inhabitants.  The  district  is  about  eighteen  miles  in 
length,  and  ten  in  breadth,  and  wholly  consists  of  moor 
pasture,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  patches  of  arable 
land.  The  estate  of  Strathconon,  which  formed  nearly 
the  entire  parish,  consists  of  69,896  acres ;  of  these, 
68,005  are  hills  and  moor,  972  arable,  and  green  pas- 
ture, and  the  remainder  lochs.  The  population  is  agri- 
cultural, and  they  forward  their  produce  to  the  Inverness 
sheep  and  wool  market,  and  the  Moor  of  Ord  cattle- 
markets.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  pres- 
bytery of  Dingwall  and  synod  of  Ross  :  the  church  is  a 
plain  building,  erected  in  1S30,  by  the  Parliamentary 
Commissioners,  and  contains  330  sittings.  The  stipend 
of  the  minister  is  £120,  and  he  has  a  manse,  a  glebe  of 
the  annual  value  of  £2,  and  grazing  for  two  cows  and  a 
horse  ;  the  patronage  is  in  the  Crown.  There  is  a  school, 
endowed  by  the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  Christian 
Knowledge, 

CARNOCK,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Dunferm- 
line, county  of  Fife,  3  miles  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Dun- 
fermline; containing,  with  the  village  of  Cairney-hill, 
and  the  hamlet  of  Gowkhall,  12/0  inhabitants,  of  whom 
184  are  in  the  village  of  Carnock.  This  place  originally 
included  only  the  barony  of  Carnock,  and  the  lands  of 
Blair,  and  Easter  and  Wester  Camps  ;  but  in  1650,  the 
Pitdennies,  the  lands  of  Luscar,  and  those  of  Clune, 
which  formed  part  of  the  parish  of  Dunfermline,  were, 
by  act  of  the  presbytery,  annexed  to  this  parish.  The 
barony  formerly  belonged  to  Lieut. -Col.  John  Erskine, 
whose  eldest  son,  a  distinguished  member  of  the  bar, 
and  professor  of  Scottish  law  in  the  university  of  Edin- 
burgh, built  the  old  mansion  of  Newbigging,  now  a 
farm-house.  Mr.  Erskine,  after  residing  at  this  place 
during  the  intervals  of  his  professional  avocations,  and 
having  here  composed  his  Institutes  of  Law,  removed  to 
Cardross,  where  he  died  in  1767.  The  parish,  which 
is  situated  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  county,  is 
about  three  miles  in  length,  and  measures  nearly  the 
same  in  average  breadth,  comprising  about  2260  acres, 
of  which  1060  are  arable,  450  woodland  and  plantations, 
and  the  remainder  meadow  and  pasture.  The  surface  is 
pleasingly  undulated,  in  some  parts  having  a  consider- 
able elevation ;  Camps  Hill  and  Carniel  Hill  form  a 
continuous  range  of  rising  ground,  commanding  a  view 
of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  with  the  adjacent  country,  from 
Stirling  on  the  west,  to  Edinburgh  on  the  east.  The 
Luscar  Know  and  the  Clun  of  Newbigging  are  also  ele- 
vated, and  command  views  of  the  Ochils,  Ben-Lomond, 
and  the  Pentland  hills.  The  streams  are  small ;  the 
Ink  Craig,  near  the  village  of  Carnock,  is  remarkable 
for  the  black  colour  of  its  water,  which,  for  ordinary 
purposes,  is  sometimes  used  as  ink. 

The  soil  is  extremely  various,  but  generally  produc- 
tive, and,  in  some  parts,  richly  fertile ;   the  system  of 
184 


agriculture  is  in  an  improved  state ;  the  crops  are,  oats, 
barley,  wheat,  and  beans,  with  potatoes  and  turnips. 
A  considerable  number  of  sheep  are  pastured  ;  the 
cattle  are  chiefly  of  the  Fifeshire  and  Teeswater  breeds, 
but  few  are  reared,  though  great  numbers  are  fattened 
for  the  markets.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  pa- 
rish is  £3126.  Coal  is  diffused  throughout,  and  for- 
merly there  were  five  mines  in  operation  ;  the  only  one 
at  present  wrought,  is  on  the  lands  of  Blair,  consisting 
of  four  separate  seams,  of  which  the  uppermost  is  a 
blind  coal,  three  feet  in  thickness,  and  is  used  chiefly 
by  brewers  and  maltsters.  The  other  seams  are  house- 
hold coal,  of  different  qualities,  of  which  the  lowest  is 
found  at  a  depth  of  twenty-three  fathoms.  Sandstone, 
limestone,  and  varieties  of  trap,  constitute  the  rocks, 
and  freestone  is  quarried  in  several  places ;  in  some, 
susceptible  of  a  high  polish.  The  plantations  are  in  a 
thriving  state,  and  are  chiefly  larch,  spruce  and  Scotch 
firs,  oak,  beech,  elm,  chesnut,  and  ash ;  of  these,  the 
firs,  oak,  and  beech,  of  which  there  are  many  stately 
trees  on  the  plantations  formed  by  Mr.  Erskine,  seem 
best  adapted  to  the  soil. 

The  principal  seats  are,  Carnock  House,  a  small  but 
handsome  mansion  ;  Blair  House,  a  neat  substantial 
building,  erected  about  the  year  IS  15;  and  Luscar  House, 
a  handsome  mansion  in  the  Elizabethan  style,  recently 
erected.  The  village  of  Carnock  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  a  rivulet  of  that  name,  over  which  is  a  bridge,  sup- 
posed, from  an  inscription  on  one  of  the  stones,  to  have 
been  first  erected  about  1638;  a  post-office,  subordinate 
to  that  of  Dunfermline,  was  established  in  1S38.  The 
manufacture  of  table-linen,  and  table-covers  of  cotton 
and  worsted,  affords  employment  to  more  than  200  of 
the  inhabitants,  in  hand-loom  weaving  for  the  whole- 
sale houses  at  Dunfermline.  A  fair  for  cattle,  and  for 
general  business,  is  held  on  the  26th  of  May,  or,  when 
that  day  falls  on  Sunday,  on  the  preceding  Saturday. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  presbytery  of  Dunfermline  and  synod  of  Fife  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £155,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £24  per  annum  ;  patron,  John  A.  Stuart, 
Esq.  The  church,  erected  in  1841,  is  a  handsome  cruci- 
form structure  in  the  Norman  style,  with  a  graceful 
spire,  and  contains  400  sittings,  with  arrangements  for 
the  erection  of  galleries,  if  requisite,  for  200  more  ;  in 
the  churchyard,  are  considerable  remains  of  the  ancient 
church.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church ;  also  a  meeting-house  in  connexion  with 
the  United  Secession  Synod.  The  parochial  school  is 
attended  by  about  sixty  children ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  about  £16.  In  the  village,  is  a  parochial  library, 
containing  250  volumes.  Some  Roman  coins,  and  frag- 
ments of  urns,  were  discovered  by  the  plough,  at  Cair- 
ney  Hill,  about  the  year  1820  ;  and  it  is  supposed,  from 
the  name  of  a  farm  in  the  parish,  called  Camps,  that 
there  may  have  been  a  military  station. 

CARNOUSTIE,  a  village  and  late  a  quoad  sacra  pa- 
rish, in  the  parish  of  Barrie,  county  of  Forfar,  2  miles 
(E.)  from  Barrie;  containing  1268  inhabitants.  This 
place  is  on  the  eastern  coast,  about  three  miles  north 
of  Buddon  Ness,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Tay.  For 
some  years  past,  it  has  been  resorted  to  for  bathing, 
and  its  smooth,  sloping,  sandy  beach  renders  it  pecu- 
liarly adapted  to  the  purpose  ;  the  number  of  visiters 


C  A  R  N 


C  A  R  N 


has  latterly  increased,  owing  to  the  facility  afforded  by 
the  Dundee  and  Arbroath  railway,  which  passes  through. 
The  village  itself  formed  the  parish,  and  the  inhabitants, 
both  male  and  female,  are  for  the  most  part  employed 
in  hand-loom  weaving,  in  their  own  dwellings  ;  their 
manufacture  is  principally  brown  and  white  linen,  for 
the  markets  of  Dundee  and  Arbroath.  The  ecclesiasti- 
cal affairs  were  under  the  presbytery  of  Arbroath  and 
synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the  church  was  erected  in 
1S38,  and  the  patronage  was  in  the  male  communicants. 
There  are  now  only  places  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church,  Original  Secession,  and  United  Seces- 
sion. A  Free  Church  school  has  been  recently  esta- 
blished, to  which  the  privy  council  made  a  grant  ;  and 
there  are  also  a  library,  and  a  savings'  bank.  In  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  Carnoustie,  a  name  signifying 
"the  cairn  of  heroes,"  are  vestiges  of  a  camp,  and  seve- 
ral tumuli,  where  were  deposited,  it  is  said,  the  remains 
of  the  Danes  who  fell  under  their  leader  Camus,  when 
vanquished  by  the  Scottish  army  commanded  by  Mal- 
colm II. 

CARNWATH,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark  ;  including  the  villages  of  Braehead, 
Forth,  Newbigging,  and  Wilsontown ;  and  containing 
3550  inhabitants,  of  whom  766  are  in  the  village  of 
Carnwath,  25  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Edinburgh.  This 
place  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name  from  an 
ancient  cairn,  to  the  west  of  the  present  village,  and 
near  a  ford  (math  in  Saxon)  across  the  burn,  now  called 
Carnwath,  which,  previously  to  the  construction  of  the 
bridges,  was  passable  only  here.  The  castle  of  Cow- 
thalley,  in  the  parish,  was,  for  many  years,  the  baronial 
residence  of  the  Sommervilles,  one  of  the  most  opu- 
lent and  powerful  families  of  the  country  in  the  12th 
century,  and  of  whom  William,  the  first  baron,  was 
the  firm  adherent  of  Robert  Bruce,  during  the  disputed 
succession  to  the  crown.  It  was  burnt  in  one  of  those 
inroads  of  the  English  which  so  frequently  occurred ; 
but  at  what  time,  or  by  whom,  it  was  rebuilt,  is  not 
distinctly  recorded.  This  castle  was  often  the  tem- 
porary residence  of  James  VI.,  while  pursuing  the 
diversion  of  hunting,  for  which  the  neighbourhood  was 
peculiarly  favourable ;  but  the  foundations  only  can 
now  be  traced,  from  which  it  appears  to  have  been  a 
fortress  of  considerable  extent,  surrounded  by  a  deep 
fosse,  and  accessible  by  a  drawbridge  on  the  western 
side. 

The  parish  is  about  twelve  miles  in  length,  from 
north  to  south,  and  about  eight  miles  in  breadth,  and 
comprises  25,193  Scotch  acres,  of  which  8500  are 
arable,  12,000  pasture  and  waste,  400  natural  woods 
and  plantations,  and  70  undivided  common.  The  sur- 
face is  varied,  consisting  partly  of  level,  and  partly  of 
rising  grounds,  the  former  having  an  elevation  of  600, 
and  the  latter  of  1200,  feet  above  the  sea,  at  the  highest 
point ;  but  there  are  no  mountains  or  detached  hills  in 
any  part.  The  principal  rivers  are  the  Clyde  and  the 
Medwin,  which  form  part  of  the  southern  boundary  ; 
there  are  numerous  springs  of  excellent  water,  affording 
an  abundant  supply,  and  also  some  possessing  mineral 
properties,  but  they  have  not  attracted  much  notice. 
The  only  lake  of  any  consideration,  is  Whiteloch,  to  the 
west  of  the  village  ;  it  covers  about  thirty  acres  of 
ground,  and  is  of  great  depth  in  some  parts ;  the 
shores  on  the  south  and  west  are  richly  wooded  and 
Vol.  I. — 185 


the  surrounding  scenery  is  diversified.  The  soil.,  in 
one  part  of  the  parish,  is  a  strong  wet  clay  ;  in  another, 
a  deep  rich  loam  ;  and  in  other  parts,  light  and  gravelly, 
intermixed  with  portions  of  moss.  The  chief  crops 
are,  barley,  oats,  a  little  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ; 
the  rotation  system  of  husbandry  is  practised,  and 
bone-dust,  has  been  extensively  introduced  as  manure, 
and  with  much  success.  Great  attention  is  paid  to  the 
management  of  the  dairy,  on  most  of  the  farms,  under 
the  encouragement  of  the  Highland  Society  of  the 
district ;  the  cheese  made  is  mostly  of  the  Dunlop  kind, 
and  the  greater  part  is  sent  to  Edinburgh.  The  cattle 
are  of  the  A}'rshire  breed  ;  there  are  but  comparatively 
few  sheep,  and  these  are  of  almost  every  variety.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £14,207. 

The  substrata  are  principally  coal,  ironstone,  and 
limestone,  all  of  which  are  extensively  wrought.  The 
coal  and  limestone  arc  found  in  superincumbent  strata, 
on  the  lands  north  of  the  rivulet  of  Dippool ;  the 
limestone  occurs  at  a  depth  of  nearly  thirty  feet  from 
the  surface,  in  seams  of  about  six  feet  thick,  and  the 
coal,  under  it,  in  seams  of  about  eighteen  inches,  wrought 
for  burning  the  lime.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Cleugh 
burn,  is  a  very  extensive  coalfield,  reaching  to  the 
northern  boundary  of  the  parish,  and  containing  an 
inexhaustible  mine,  which,  till  within  the  last  fifty 
years,  had  been  only  partially  explored  ;  but,  on  the 
establishment  of  a  company  here,  for  the  manufacture 
of  iron,  a  steam-engine  was  erected  for  drawing  off  the 
water,  and  mining  operations  were  conducted  on  a  very 
extended  scale.  To  the  west  of  this  district,  at  Climpy, 
is  another  field  of  coal,  which  has  also  been  worked 
by  the  company.  The  ironstone  is  found  in  strata 
of  various  thickness  and  quality  ;  in  some  parts  oc- 
curring in  the  form  of  tessellated  pavement,  and  in 
others,  in  small  detached  masses.  The  village  of 
Carnwath,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  parish,  is  neatly 
built,  and  contains  several  regular  streets,  and  many 
handsome  houses,  especially  those  of  more  recent  erec- 
tion ;  most  of  the  old  houses  have  also  been  much 
improved  in  appearance,  and  the  whole  has  an  air  of 
great  cheerfulness  and  comfort.  It  is  inhabited  chiefly 
by  persons  employed  in  weaving,  for  the  manufac- 
turers of  Glasgow  and  Paisley.  A  public  library  is 
supported  by  subscription  ;  a  weekly  market  is  held, 
mostly  for  the  sale  of  meal  and  barley,  and  there  are 
fairs  in  July,  for  cows  and  horses,  and  for  hiring  ser- 
vants ;  in  the  middle  of  August,  for  lambs  and  young 
horses ;  and  in  October,  and  also  in  February,  princi- 
pally for  the  hiring  of  farm-servants.  On  the  day 
after  the  August  fair,  a  foot-race  and  various  other 
sports  are  celebrated. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Lanark  and  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £250.  17.6., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum. 
The  church,  erected  in  1798,  and  thoroughly  repaired 
in  1833,  is  a  plain  neat  edifice,  adapted  for  a  congrega- 
tion of  about  1100  persons,  but  almost  inaccessible  to 
a  great  portion  of  the  population.  Chapels  in  connexion 
with  the  Established  Church  have  been  built  at  Wilson- 
town  and  Climpy  ;  but  the  latter  is  fast  falling  into  a 
state  of  dilapidation.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  New  Light  Burghers  congregation,  on 
the  road  to  Wilsontown ;  and  the  parish  also  contains 
a  place  of  worship  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church, 

2  B 


C  A  R  R 


C  A  R  R 


The  parochial  school  is  well  conducted ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £34  fees,  and  a  house  and 
garden.  The  ancient  cairn  from  which  the  parish  takes 
its  name  is  of  elliptical  form,  and  on  the  summit  is 
an  opening,  from  which  was  a  descent,  by  a  flight  of 
steps,  to  the  bottom  ;  it  is  surrounded  by  a  deep  fosse 
and  high  mound,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  formed 
as  a  place  of  security  in  time  of  war,  and  for  conceal- 
ment of  treasure.  Sir  N.  M.  Lockhart  has  planted  it 
with  hard-wood  trees.  Among  the  few  other  remains 
of  antiquity  in  the  parish,  is  the  beautiful  aisle  of  the 
old  church,  which  was  founded  in  13S6,  and  endowed, 
and  made  collegiate  for  a  principal  and  six  prebendaries, 
in  1424,  by  Lord  Sommerville,  who  also  connected  with 
it  a  provision  for  the  maintenance  of  eight  poor  aged 
men.  This  aisle,  which  is  in  good  preservation,  and 
displays  some  interesting  details  in  the  decorated 
English  style,  has  been  the  sepulchral  chapel  of  the 
Sommerville  and  Dalziel  families,  and  of  the  earls  of 
Carnwath,  and  is  now  the  burying-place  of  the  family 
of  Lockhart. — See  Wilsontown,  &c. 

CAROLINE-PLACE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
St.  Martin,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  99  inhabit- 
ants. 

CARRIDEN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Linlith- 
gow, 1^  mile  (E.  by  S.)  from  Borrowstounness  ;  con- 
taining, with  the  villages  of  Blackness,  Bridgeness,  Cuff- 
abouts,  Grangepans,  and  Muirhouses,  1208  inhabitants. 
This  place  derives  its  name,  originally  Caer-edin,  from 
an  old  Roman  station  on  the  wall  of  Antonine,  which 
extended  into  this  parish,  nearly  to  Carriden  House. 
Of  this  wall,  however,  there  are  no  remains,  though 
several  Roman  antiquities  have  been  discovered,  at  dif- 
ferent times,  including  a  gold  coin  of  the  Emperor  Ves- 
pasian, a  Roman  altar  without  incription,  a  brass  sword, 
several  vases,  and  other  relics.  Few  events  of  historical 
importance  occur  in  connexion  with  the  parish,  except 
such  as  are  closely  identified  with  the  castle  of  Blackness, 
which,  with  the  village,  is  noticed  in  a  separate  article. 
The  parish  extends  for  three  miles,  along  the  southern 
shore  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  is  about  two  miles  in 
breadth,  comprising  2719  acres,  of  which  2550  are 
arable,  with  some  fine  tracts  of  meadow  and  pasture, 
113  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  roads 
and  waste.  The  surface  is  varied,  rising  from  the  shore, 
for  nearly  a  mile,  in  bold  undulations,  which,  as  they 
approach  the  south-west,  near  Linlithgow  and  Borrows- 
tounness, attain  an  elevation  of  519  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  form  part  of  the  Irongath  hills  ;  towards  the  east, 
they  gradually  subside  into  gentle  acclivities.  The 
shore  is  a  sloping  sand,  mixed  with  calcareous  matter, 
and,  at  low  water,  expanding  into  a  considerable  breadth 
of  a  mixture  of  alluvial  soil  and  sand ;  the  sandy  mar- 
gin, however,  is  gradually  becoming  firmer  and  more 
stony,  from  the  encroachment  of  the  sea. 

The  soil  varies  from  a  light  sand  to  a  rich  and  fertile 
loam,  and,  in  some  parts,  to  a  heavy  clay  ;  the  system 
of  agriculture  is  in  a  highly  improved  state,  and  the 
crops  are,  grain  of  all  kinds,  potatoes,  and  turnips. 
Some  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  live  stock  ;  the 
sheep,  of  which  small  numbers  are  pastured  on  the  lands, 
are  generally  of  the  black-faced  kind  ;  the  cattle  are  the 
short-horned,  occasionally  intermixed  with  others  from 
the  north.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£4510.  The  plantations  consist  of  oak,  ash,  elm,  beech, 
1S6 


plane,  lime,  and  larch,  for  all  of  which  the  soil  is  toler- 
ably adapted.  There  are  several  quarries  of  freestone  for 
building,  and  whinstone  for  the  roads,  which  are  worked 
for  domestic  use ;  coal  is  every  where  abundant,  and 
has  been  wrought  from  a  very  remote  period.  Within 
the  present  century,  not  less  than  ten  collieries  have 
been  opened,  at  a  short  distance  from  each  other ;  but 
only  four,  of  which  two  belong  to  the  Duke  of  Hamil- 
ton, are  at  present  in  operation.  Ironstone,  also,  is 
wrought  to  some  extent.  Carriden  House  is  an  ancient 
mansion  with  modern  additions,  situated  in  grounds 
tastefully  laid  out,  and  embellished  with  the  windings 
of  the  Carriden  burn,  of  which  the  banks  are  beautifully 
picturesque. 

At  the  village  of  Grangepans,  the  making  of  salt  is 
carried  on  to  some  extent,  for  which  there  were  for- 
merly six  pans  ;  but  only  four  are  now  in  operation. 
Near  Blackness  is  a  valuable  field  of  clay,  twelve  feet 
in  depth,  affording  materials  for  the  making  of  bricks 
and  tiles,  of  which,  in  1S34,  the  produce  amounted  to 
150,000  bricks,  200,000  roofing,  and  the  same  number 
of  draining  tiles,  since  which  time,  the  demand  has 
much  increased.  At  Bridgeness,  is  a  pier  for  the  ship- 
ping of  coal  and  salt,  and  the  landing  of  lime  and 
manure  ;  it  has  been  recently  enlarged  by  the  pro- 
prietor, and  with  it  is  connected  a  railway,  about  a 
mile  in  length,  from  the  collieries.  Facility  of  com- 
munication is  afforded  by  the  road  from  Linlithgow  to 
Queensferry,  which  passes  through  the  south-eastern 
portion  of  the  parish.  On  the  lands  of  Capt.  Hope, 
some  stake-nets  were  laid  down  a  few  years  since,  and 
the  quantity  of  salmon  taken  has  occasionally  been 
considerable.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Linlithgow  and 
synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  the  minister's  sti- 
pend is  £249.  1/.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued 
at  £25  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Duke  of  Hamilton. 
The  church,  a  neat  plain  structure,  erected  in  1766, 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  old  church,  of  which  the 
burial-ground  is  still  used,  contains  45S  sittings.  The 
parochial  school  is  well  conducted ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  with  a  house,  and  an  allowance  in  lieu  of 
garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £8  per  annum. 
There  is  a  good  parochial  library.  Colonel  Gardiner, 
who  was  killed  at  the  battle  of  Prestonpans,  in  1745, 
was  a  native  of  this  parish  ;  Dr.  Roebuck,  of  Sheffield, 
the  original  founder  of  the  Carron  iron-works,  and  as- 
sociated with  the  celebrated  Watt  in  some  of  his  im- 
provements on  the  steam-engine,  is  buried  in  the  church- 
yard ;  and  the  late  Rear-Admiral  Sir  George  J.  Hope 
was  proprietor  of  Carriden  House. 

CARRINGTON,  or  Primrose,  a  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Edinburgh  ;  containing,  with  the  villages 
of  Thornton  and  Whitefaugh,  616  inhabitants,  of  whom 
1 6 1  are  in  the  village  of  Carrington,  6  miles  (S.  by  W.) 
from  Dalkeith.  This  place,  at  an  early  period,  was  the 
property  of  William,  Lord  Ramsay,  who  was  created 
Earl  of  Dalhousie  and  Lord  Carrington  in  1633,  and 
from  whom  it  was  purchased  by  Sir  Archibald  Primrose, 
ancestor  of  the  earls  of  Rosebery.  James,  the  succes- 
sor of  Sir  Archibald,  was  created  Viscount  Primrose  in 
1703,  and  gave  his  family  name  to  the  estate,  by  which, 
in  most  documents,  the  parish  is  noticed,  though  the 
ancient  name  is  still  retained  among  the  inhabitants  of 
the  surrounding  districts.  The  parish,  which  is  bounded 


CARR 


CARS 


on  the  south  by  the  Moorfoot  hills,  on  the  north  by 
the  Pentlancl  hills,  and  on  the  south-east  by  the  river 
South  Esk,  is  about  three  miles  and  a  half  in  length, 
and  almost  two  miles  in  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of 
nearly  3500  acres,  of  which  the  greater  part  is  arable  ; 
numerous  rivulets  flow  through  the  lands  into  the 
South  Esk,  but  none  of  them  are  of  sufficient  import- 
ance to  require  particular  description.  On  the  north 
lies  the  parish  of  Cockpen,  on  the  north-west  that  of 
Lasswade,  on  the  south  Temple  and  a  small  part  of 
Penicuick,  and  on  the  east  the  parish  of  Borthwick. 
The  soil,  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  around  the 
village,  is  generally  fertile,  but,  towards  the  western 
extremities  of  the  parish,  and  especially  to  the  north, 
somewhat  cold,  wet,  and  moorish.  The  chief  crops  are, 
wheat,  barley,  oats,  peas,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  and  the 
rotation  system  of  husbandry  is  generally  practised  ; 
considerable  progress  has  been  made  in  draining  and 
inclosing  the  lands,  which  are  mostly  in  a  good  state  of 
cultivation.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£4617.  Coal  is  found  throughout  the  whole  of  the 
district,  and  some  of  the  seams  are  of  very  superior 
quality.  There  are  but  two  proprietors  of  land  in  the 
parish,  the  Earl  of  Rosebery  and  another  gentleman,  of 
whom  the  latter  resides  at  the  splendid  modern  mansion 
of  Whitehall.  The  village,  which  is  on  the  road  to  Dal- 
keith, is  neatly  built,  and  inhabited  chiefly  by  persons 
employed  in  the  various  handicraft  trades  requisite  for 
the  wants  of  the  neighbourhood  ;  and  facility  of  com- 
munication is  maintained  by  good  roads,  kept  in  repair 
by  statute  labour,  and  by  bridges  over  the  Esk  and 
other  streams.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Dal- 
keith and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  minis- 
ter's stipend  is  £15S.  7.  5.,  of  which  one-third  is  pay- 
able from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £15  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Rose- 
bery. The  church,  a  neat  structure,  was  erected  in 
1711.  The  parochial  school  is  well  conducted;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34.  4.  4.,  with  a  house  and 
garden,  and  the  fees  average  £10  per  annum. 

CARRON,  a  village,  and  the  seat  of  extensive  iron- 
works, in  the  parish  of  Larbert,  county  of  Stirling, 
2  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Falkirk.  This  village,  which 
is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river  Carron,  about 
three  miles  from  its  influx  into  the  Forth,  and  has  every 
facility  of  obtaining  water-power,  and  an  easy  transit  for 
produce,  became,  in  17 60,  the  seat  of  the  iron- works 
which  are  so  well  known  as  the  most  important  and 
extensive  in  the  kingdom.  These  works  were  originally 
established  by  a  company,  consisting  of  Messrs.  Roe- 
buck, formerly  of  Sheffield,  and  afterwards  of  Birming- 
ham, Mr.  Garbet,  merchant  of  the  latter  place,  and 
Messrs.  Cadell,  of  East  Lothian.  The  company  was 
incorporated  by  charter,  in  1773,  with  a  capital  of 
£150,000,  raised  in  shares  of  £250  each,  and  having 
engaged  workmen  from  Sheffield  and  Birmingham, 
commenced  operations  under  the  superintendence  of 
Mr.  Gascoigne,  son-in-law  of  Mr.  Garbet,  on  a  very 
extensive  scale.  The  smelting  of  iron-ore,  and  the 
manufacture  of  cast-iron  goods  of  every  description,  are 
carried  onto  a  great  extent;  not  less  than  10,000  tons 
of  pig-iron  are  annually  made,  and  the  manufacture  of 
malleable  iron  from  scraps,  which  is  of  more  recent  in- 
troduction, is  also  extensive.  Among  the  articles  pro- 
duced are,  cannon,  mortars,  howitzers,  and  carronades, 
1S7 


which  last  derived  their  name  from  this  establishment ; 
shot,  shells,  and  other  implements  of  war  ;  agricultural 
instruments,  with  various  articles  for  domestic  use, 
steam-engines,  sugar-mills,  sugar-pans,  and  anchors, 
anvils,  and  axles.  There  are  four  blast  furnaces,  two 
of  which  have  been  adapted  to  the  use  of  the  hot  blast, 
and  four  cupola  furnaces,  all  of  which  have  water-wheels 
for  propelling  the  machinery  ;  and  in  summer,  a  power- 
ful steam-engine  uutil  recently  lifted  water  from  a  reser- 
voir, to  turn  these  wheels,  at  the  rate  of  forty  tons  per 
minute.  A  steam-engine,  also,  of  gigantic  power,  is 
incessantly  at  work,  day  and  night,  for  the  production 
of  blast;  and  fifteen  air  furnaces  are  in  operation. 
There  are  mills  for  boring  cylinders  and  pipes,  of  which 
the  machinery  is  almost  unrivalled,  and  the  various  re- 
servoirs for  the  supply  of  the  works  cover  100  acres  of 
ground  ;  the  entire  number  of  persons  employed  is  more 
than  1000.  The  foundry  is  connected  with  the  col- 
lieries of  Kinnaird  and  Carron  Hall,  by  a  substantial 
railway  of  two  lines,  and,  by  another,  with  the  shipping 
wharf  on  the  Forth  and  Clyde  canal,  at  the  village  of 
Bainsford. 

CARRONBRIDGE,  a  village,  chiefly  in  the  parish 
of  Morton,  and  partly  in  that  of  Durisdeer,  county 
of  Dumfries,  2  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Thornhill;  con- 
taining 254  inhabitants.  This  place  takes  its  name 
from  its  bridge  over  the  Carron  water,  which  separates 
the  parishes  of  Durisdeer  and  Morton  ;  it  is  situated  in 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  former  parish,  and  on 
the  western  boundary  of  the  latter,  a  short  distance 
east  of  the  river  Nith. 

CARRONSHORE,  a  village,  partly  in  the  parish  of 
Larbert,  but  chiefly  in  that  of  Bothkennar,  county 
of  Stirling,  3  miles  (N.)  from  Falkirk  ;  containing  83S 
inhabitants,  of  whom  453  are  in  Bothkennar.  This  vil- 
lage, which  is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river 
Carron,  about  a  mile  below  the  Carron  foundry,  is  the 
shipping  place  for  a  part  of  the  produce  of  those  ex- 
tensive works,  for  which  purpose,  the  company  have 
erected  spacious  wharfs,  and  a  dry  dock  for  repairing 
vessels.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  connected  with  the 
iron-works,  in  which  many  of  them  are  employed,  and 
also  in  the  collieries  in  the  neighbourhood,  belonging  to 
the  company  ;   the  houses  are  neatly  built. 

CARSEBURN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  and  county 
of  Forfar,  1|  mile  (N.  E.)  from  Forfar;  containing 
10S  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  the  northern  extremity  of 
the  parish,  and  on  the  borders  of  that  of  Rescobie  :  the 
road  from  Forfar  to  Brechin  passes  a  short  distance  on 
the  east. 

CARSETHORN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kirk- 
bean,  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  13  miles  (S.)  from 
Dumfries;  containing  157  inhabitants.  This  place  is 
situated  on  the  shore  of  the  bay  of  Carse,  on  the  eastern 
coast  of  the  parish,  and  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  persons 
engaged  in  the  coasting  trade,  in  which  three  small 
vessels  are  employed,  averaging  about  fifty  tons'  bur- 
then. The  exports  are  mostly  grain  and  other  agricul- 
tural produce,  to  Glasgow,  Cumberland,  and  Liverpool, 
and  the  imports  are  principally  coal.  A  pier  of  wood 
has  recently  been  constructed,  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  farmers  in  the  neighbourhood,  in  sending  their 
live  stock  by  the  Liverpool  steam-packet,  which  makes 
two  voyages  weekly  during  the  summer,  and  one  dur- 
ing the  winter.  The  bay  affords  good  anchorage  to 
vessels  in  unfavourable  weather;  many  from  Dumfries, 

2  B  2 


CARS 


CARS 


in  contrary  winds,  take  shelter,  and  others,  bound  for 
that  port,  wait  in  the  bay  for  the  spring  tides. 

CARSPHAIRN,  a  parish,  in  the  stewartry  of  Kirk- 
cudbright, 12  miles  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from  New  Gallo- 
way ;  containing  790  inhabitants,  of  whom  103  are  in 
the  village.  This  place,  which  was  separated  from  the 
parishes  of  Kells  and  Dairy  in  1627,  is  supposed  to 
have  derived  its  name  from  the  erection  of  the  church 
and  village  on  a  small  level  plain,  at  that  time  over- 
grown with  fern.  The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  east 
by  the  river  Ken,  and  on  the  north  and  west  by  Loch 
Doon  and  the  county  of  Ayr ;  it  is  nearly  circular  in 
form,  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  nearly  nine  in 
breadth,  comprising  about  56,000  acres.  The  surface, 
with  the  exception  of  a  small  tract  of  arable  land  around 
the  village,  is  mountainous  and  hilly.  The  highest  of 
the  mountains  is  Cairnsmuir,  which  has  an  elevation  of 
2696  feet  above  the  sea,  commanding  an  unbounded 
view  in  every  direction,  except  the  south-west,  where  it 
is  obstructed  by  the  mountain  of  Carlines  Cairn,  nearly 
equal  in  height.  The  lower  hills  are  covered  with  heath  ; 
but  those  of  greater  elevation  are  well  clothed  with 
verdure  to  their  summits,  affording  excellent  pasturage 
for  sheep  and  black  cattle.  The  river  Deugh,  which 
descends  from  the  northern  heights,  with  great  rapidity, 
takes  a  south-easterly  course,  and  flows  into  the  Ken  ; 
and  the  parish  is  also  intersected  by  numerous  moun- 
tain streams,  some  of  which  abound  with  trout.  The 
scenery  is,  for  the  most  part,  wild,  with  scarcely  any 
ancient  wood,  and  but  very  small  patches  of  modern 
plantations. 

The  lands  are  principally  occupied  as  sheep-walks, 
which  have  been  improved  by  surface  draining,  and 
the  parish  is  almost  entirely  pastoral ;  about  30,000 
sheep,  of  the  black-faced  breed,  are  regularly  pastured, 
and  a  very  considerable  number  of  cattle,  of  the  High- 
land breed,  are  kept  during  the  winter,  and,  in  summer, 
sent  to  the  English  markets.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £5414.  The  substrata  are  chiefly 
greywacke  and  granite  ;  iron  and  lead  ore  are  found,  and 
it  is  said  that  the  former  was  wrought  for  many  years, 
till  the  woods  producing  charcoal  were  exhausted.  A 
rich  vein  of  lead-ore  has  been  discovered,  on  the  lands 
of  the  Honourable  Col.  Cathcart,  who  has  spared  no 
expense  in  bringing  it  into  successful  operation,  for 
which  purpose  he  has  employed  a  large  number  of 
miners,  chiefly  from  Wanlockhead  and  Leadhills.  Build- 
ings have  been  erected  for  crushing,  washing,  and 
smelting  the  ore,  on  the  most  approved  plans,  and  for 
separating  the  silver  from  the  lead,  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  skilful  overseers.  Cottages  for  the  work- 
men have  been  built  on  the  spot,  and  a  schoolmaster's 
house,  and  spacious  schoolroom  for  the  instruction  of 
their  children  ;  and  the  proprietor  gives  a  liberal  salary 
to  the  master  and  mistress. 

The  village  is  small  ;  a  post-office,  a  branch  of  that 
of  Ayr,  has  been  established,  and  facility  of  communica- 
tion is  afforded  by  the  turnpike-road  from  Dumfries  to 
Ayr.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcudbright  and  synod 
of  Galloway.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £182.  10.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £27  per  annum  ;  pa- 
trons, the  Crown  and  the  Forbes  family.  The  church, 
which  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  is  a  plain 
structure,  erected  within  the  last  twenty  years,  and 
containing  sufficient  sittings.  The  parochial  school  is 
188 


well  conducted  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a 
house  and  garden,  also  the  interest  of  £500,  bequeathed 
by  the  late  Mr.  Mc  Adam,  and  the  fees  average  about 
£15.  The  poor  have  the  proceeds  of  various  bequests 
amounting  to  £800,  of  which  £500  were  left  by  Mr. 
Mc  Adam.  The  chief  remains  of  antiquity  are  cairns,  in 
some  of  which,  on  their  removal,  stones,  in  the  form  of 
coffins,  were  found,  containing  human  bones  ;  there  are 
also  remains  of  a  Druidical  circle.  The  late  Dr.  Jackson, 
professor  of  natural  philosophy  in  the  university  of  St. 
Andrew's,  was  a  native  of  the  place. 

CARSTAIRS,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark  ;  including  the  village  of  Ravens- 
truther,  and  containing  950  inhabitants,  of  whom  350 
are  in  the  village  of  Carstairs,  4^  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from 
Lanark.  The  name  is  most  probably  derived  from  the 
word  Car,  or  Caer,  signifying  "a  fort,"  and  stair,  or 
stairs,  "  a  possession  ;"  descriptive  of  an  estate  or  pos- 
session in  a  fortified  place.  The  ancient  occupation  of 
the  district  by  the  Romans,  is  evinced  by  many  remains 
of  antiquity,  such  as  coins,  baths,  &c,  but  chiefly  by 
the  military  station  called  Castle-dykes,  and  a  Roman 
camp  on  the  farm  of  Corbie  Hall.  The  former  of  these 
is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Clyde,  the  southern 
boundary  of  the  parish  ;  and  from  it  a  road  ran  across 
Clydesdale,  passing  the  Clyde  near  Lanark,  and  run- 
ning over  Stonebyre  hill,  after  which  it  crossed  the 
Nethan.  The  road  to  and  from  Corbie  has  been  dis- 
tinctly traced,  for  many  miles  ;  and  from  the  concurrent 
opinions  of  antiquaries,  this  station  is  identified  with 
the  ancient  Coria,  a  town  of  the  Damnii,  through  which 
ran  the  great  road  from  Carlisle  to  the  wall  of  Anto- 
ninus. In  the  12th  century,  the  manor,  with  the 
church,  belonged  to  the  Bishop  of  Glasgow,  whose  right 
was  confirmed  by  bulls  from  several  popes.  After  the 
death  of  Alexander  III.,  Bishop  Wishart,  with  the  con- 
sent of  Edward  I.  of  England,  when  that  king  was  pre- 
sent to  settle  the  dispute  between  Bruce  and  Baliol, 
built  a  stone  castle  near  the  church  ;  and  the  manor 
and  parish  continued  the  property  of  the  see  of  Glasgow 
till  the  Reformation. 

The  parish,  which  is  of  an  oblong  form,  is  six  miles 
in  length,  from  north  to  south,  and  its  average  breadth 
is  about  three  miles ;  it  contains  1 1,840  acres.  The 
surface  is  irregular,  and  is  greatly  marked  in  some  parts 
by  sand-knolls,  which  rise  from  fifteen  to  sixty  feet 
above  the  general  level,  and  inclose  numerous  mosses, 
formed  from  old  woods,  vegetable  remains  carried 
thither  by  winds,  and  the  decomposition  of  plants,  with 
an  accumulation  of  stagnant  water.  The  southern  part 
is  picturesque  and  beautiful,  and  ornamented  by  the 
expansive  stream  of  the  Clyde,  the  banks  of  which  are 
enriched  with  fine  pasture  ;  and  on  a  slope  embosomed 
in  forest  scenery,  and  surrounded  with  plantations, 
lawns,  and  shrubberies,  stands  the  magnificent  structure 
of  Carstairs  House,  from  which  the  approach  to  the 
village  furnishes  one  of  the  most  interesting  prospects 
in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  river  Mouse  flows  in 
a  westerly  direction  through  the  centre  of  the  parish, 
amidst  dreary  tracts  of  moss,  among  which  it  forms 
many  deep  pools  ;  trout,  pike,  and  various  other  kinds 
of  fish,  are  taken  by  angling. 

Near  the  Clyde,  the  soil,  is  an  alluvial  deposit,  bear- 
ing very  superior  crops.  Between  this  and  the  passage 
of  the  Mouse,  is  a  continuous  bed  of  sandy  earth,  lying 
chiefly  in  the  form  of  knolls,  on  a  subsoil  of  sand  and 


CART 


CAST 


stones  ;  and  beyond  the  Mouse,  in  the  western  district, 
it  is  clayey,  and  in  the  eastern,  chiefly  a  flat  moss.  The 
number  of  acres  cultivated,  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  is 
9936;  waste  or  pasture,  1509;  and  in  wood  and  plan- 
tation, 400  :  of  those  which  are  waste,  500  are  supposed 
capable  of  profitable  cultivation.  The  produce  consists 
of  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  turnips,  and  hay  ;  the  cattle 
are  of  the  Ayrshire  kind  ;  all  the  modern  improvements 
in  agriculture  have  been  adopted,  and  the  growth  of 
turnips  has  been  particularly  attended  to.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £6465.  The  prevailing 
rock  is  grey  sandstone ;  there  are  also  considerable 
quantities  of  whinstone,  and  some  limestone,  and  in  the 
north-west  is  a  bed  of  fine  clay,  near  which  a  tile- work 
has  been  erected,  where  drain-tiles  are  made.  The 
road  from  Lanark  to  Edinburgh,  by  Carnwath,  and 
also  that  by  Wilsontown,  and  the  road  from  Glasgow 
to  Peebles,  all  run  through  the  parish.  Fairs  were  for- 
merly held  on  the  first  Thursday  in  May,  and  the  second 
in  July  and  November,  all  O.  S.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Lanark  and 
synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  patron,  Henry  Monteith, 
Esq.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £234,  and  there  is  a 
manse,  a  well-built  structure,  with  a  glebe  of  the  annual 
value  of  £35.  The  church,  which  was  built  in  1794, 
and  has  a  handsome  spire,  is  situated  in  the  centre  of 
the  village,  on  an  eminence,  and  contains  430  sittings. 
There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  are  taught  the 
classics,  practical  mathematics,  and  all  the  usual 
branches  of  education  ;  the  master  has  the  maximum 
salary,  with  a  house  and  garden,  an  annual  bequest  of 
£1.  10.,  and  £2*.  13.  fees. 

CARTLAND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Lanark, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  2  miles  (N.  W.) 
from  Lanark;  containing  112  inhabitants.  It  is  situ- 
ated in  the  north-western  part  of  the  parish,  and  to  the 
west  of  the  high  road  between  Lanark  and  Carluke. 
In  the  village  is  a  small  school,  to  the  master  of  which 
the  heritors  allow  £5  per  annum,  with  a  house  and 
garden  ;  his  fees  are  about  £15.  The  romantic  rocks 
called  Cartland  Crags,  are  in  this  vicinity  ;  they  form  a 
deep  chasm,  supposed  to  be  the  effect  of  an  earthquake, 
and  through  which  the  Mouse  water  finds  its  way  to  the 
Clyde.  A  bridge  of  three  arches  is  thrown  across  the 
chasm,  which  is  of  considerable  height ;  and  below,  is 
an  old  narrow  bridge,  with  a  semicircular  arch,  said  to 
be  of  Roman  structure.  The  scenery  of  the  place  is 
finely  described  in  Miss  Porter's  well-known  story  of  the 
Scottish  Chiefs. 

CARTSDYKE,  late  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
East  parish  of  Greenock,  Lower  ward  of  the  county  of 
Renfrew;  containing  3651  inhabitants.  This  place  is 
situated  on  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  and  adjoins  the  town  of 
Greenock,  of  which  it  has  become  a  suburb,  on  the  east 
side  ;  it  is  also  called  Crawfurdsdyke,  from  the  erection 
of  a  small  quay  by  its  proprietor,  Thomas  Crawfurd, 
Esq.,  who  obtained  from  Charles  I.  a  charter  erecting 
his  lands  here  into  a  burgh  of  barony.  There  is  a  good 
roadstead,  much  frequented  by  the  Glasgow  and  other 
shipping  sailing  along  the  river  and  Frith  of  Clyde. 
The  parish  was  separated  from  Greenock  in  1839,  for 
ecclesiastical  purposes,  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  presbytery  of  Greenock  and  synod  of  Glasgow 
and  Ayr  ;  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  derived  from 
seat-rents.  The  church,  originally  in  connexion  with 
189 


the  Secession  Synod,  was  rebuilt  on  the  same  site,  in 
1828,  at  a  cost,  including  a  school-house,  of  £1052, 
raised  by  private  subscription  ;  it  contains  906  sittings. 
Besides  the  school  attached  to  the  church,  there  are 
several  other  schools,  affording  instruction  to  a  con- 
siderable number  of  children. — See  Greenock. 

CASTLE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  New  Cumnock, 
district  of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr  ;  containing  155  inha- 
bitants. 

CASTLECARY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Falkirk, 
county  of  Stirling,  8  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Falkirk. 
This  hamlet,  which  is  situated  at  the  western  extremity 
of  the  parish,  and  on  the  bank  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde 
canal,  takes  its  name  from  an  ancient  castle  on  the  line 
of  the  Roman  road,  of  which  the  tower,  now  inhabited 
by  the  Earl  of  Zetland's  forester,  is  the  only  remaining 
portion.  On  the  bank  of  the  canal  is  a  small  landing- 
place  for  goods  and  passengers  ;  and  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  are  some  saw-mills  driven  by  water,  in  which 
about  sixteen  persons  are  employed,  and  some  freestone 
quarries,  which  are  extensively  wrought. 

CASTLE -DOUGLAS,  a 
market-town  and  burgh  of 
^jg,  barony,  in  the  parish  of  Kel- 
ton,  stewartry  of  Kirkcud- 
bright, 10  miles  (N.  N.  E.) 
from  Kirkcudbright,  and  S9 
(S.  S.  W.)  from  Edinburgh ; 
containing  184S  inhabitants. 
This  place,  which  is  situated 
on  a  gentle  acclivity  rising 
from  the  margin  of  Loch 
Carlinwark,  originally  con- 
sisted only  of  a  few  cottages 
and  subsequently  "  Carlin- 
wark." It  derives  its  present  name  from  the  ancient 
castle  of  Threave,  the  baronial  seat  of  the  Douglases, 
and  the  last  of  the  numerous  fortresses  which  held  out 
for  that  family,  till  the  year  1453,  when  it  was  surren- 
dered to  the  crown.  The  rapid  increase  of  the  present 
town,  and  its  former  manufacturing  importance,  arose 
from  the  introduction  of  the  cotton  manufacture,  by  its 
proprietor,  Sir  William  Douglas.  This  source  of  em- 
ployment, for  a  time,  continued,  and  added  greatly  to 
its  population  ;  but  the  subsequent  introduction  of  the 
power-loom,  rendered  it  impracticable  to  carry  on  the 
works  with  advantage,  in  a  locality  destitute  of  an  ade- 
quate suppty  either  of  coal  or  of  water,  and  the  manu- 
facture was  consequently  abaudoned.  The  place,  not- 
withstanding, continued,  from  its  situation  in  the  centre 
of  the  county,  and  its  facilities  of  intercourse,  to  acquire 
an  increasing  degree  of  agricultural  and  commercial  im- 
portance ;  and  became,  in  a  very  short  time,  the  prin- 
cipal mart  of  the  surrounding  districts. 

The  town  is  situated  on  the  great  road  from  Car- 
lisle to  Portpatrick,  and  consists  of  several  spacious 
streets,  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles,  and 
forming  handsome  squares,  of  which  the  internal  areas 
are  laid  out  in  gardens.  The  houses  are  well  built;  and 
there  are  several  villas  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  which 
abounds  with  pleasing  scenery.  Gas  was  introduced 
into  the  town  in  February  1844,  by  a  company,  and 
has  proved  of  considerable  benefit.  A  public  library 
is  supported  by  subscription,  and  contains  about  1200 
volumes,    and    there   is    also    a    circulating    library   in 


Burgh  Seal. 
called    "  Causeway    End,' 


CAST 


CAST 


the  town.  The  shops  are  remarkably  elegant,  and  are 
well  stored  with  various  kinds  of  merchandise  ;  the 
post-office  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  south  of 
Scotland,  and  has  fourteen  branch  offices  under  its  con- 
trol]], all  of  which  have  a  daily  delivery.  A  savings' 
bank  was  opened  in  1841,  and  has  now  deposits  to  the 
amount  of  £2022.  The  market  is  on  Monday,  and  is 
abundantly  supplied  with  grain  of  all  kinds,  and  other 
agricultural  produce  ;  large  numbers  of  black-cattle  and 
sheep,  and  great  quantities  of  pigs,  are  constantly  ex- 
posed to  sale.  Fairs  are  held  on  the  11th  of  February 
if  on  Monday,  otherwise  on  the  Monday  following,  for 
horses  j  on  the  23rd  of  March,  for  horses,  and  for  hiring 
servants  ;  the  first  Monday  in  April,  for  hogs  ;  the 
Monday  before  the  second  Friday  in  August,  for  lambs  ; 
the  23rd  of  September,  for  horses,  and  hiring  servants  ; 
and  the  Monday  after  the  13th  of  November  (O.  S.), 
for  horses.  These  fairs  were  formerly  held  at  Kelton 
Hill,  from  which  place,  with  the  exception  of  one  still 
held  there,  in  June,  they  were  removed  to  the  town. 

In  1J90,  the  town  was  erected  into  a  burgh  of 
barony,  by  a  royal  charter,  which  was  confirmed  and 
extended  by  a  charter  dated  1829,  and  under  which  the 
government  was  vested  in  a  provost,  two  bailies,  and 
seven  councillors,  who  are  elected  triennially,  on  the 
first  Wednesday  in  September.  The  magistrates,  whose 
jurisdiction  extends  over  the  whole  of  the  burgh,  hold 
courts  every  Tuesday,  for  the  adjudication  of  civil 
causes  to  any  amount,  and  for  cases  of  petty  delin- 
quency, and  matters  connected  with  the  police,  as  occa- 
sion may  require  ;  they  are  assisted  by  the  town-clerk, 
who  acts  as  assessor.  The  number  of  burgesses  is  about 
ninety,  and  their  qualification  is  by  a  perpetual  feu 
right,  or  by  having  a  lease,  for  a  hundred  years,  of  any 
ground  within  the  burgh  on  which  a  house  has  been 
built.  The  town-house  is  a  modern  building,  with 
a  tower  and  a  clock,  and  was  presented  to  the  burgh  by 
the  late  Sir  William  Douglas.  There  is  a  place  of  wor- 
ship for  Reformed  Presbyterians  ;  and  the  recent  sece- 
ders  from  the  Establishment  have  erected  a  Free  church 
here. — See  Kelton. 

CASTLETON,  a  parish,  situated  in  the  district  of 
Melrose,  county  of  Roxburgh;  containing  2135 
inhabitants,  of  whom  ]  030  are  in  the  village  of  New 
Castleton,  9  miles  (E.  by  N.)  from  Langholm.  This 
place  derived  its  name  from  an  ancient  castle  here, 
which  stood  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Liddel,  upon  a  per- 
pendicular precipice  upwards  of  100  feet  in  height,  and 
was  defended  on  the  west  and  south  by  two  strong 
ramparts,  and  a  deep  fosse,  which  are  still  entire.  The 
parish  was  anciently  denominated  Liddesdale,  from  the 
river,  which  runs  through  it  from  the  north-east  to  the 
south  ;  camps,  forts,  cairns,  and  castles  remain  in  va- 
rious places,  and  on  account  of  its  situation  directly 
along  the  English  border,  it  was  formerly  the  scene  of 
violent  contentions.  Hermitage  Castle,  a  building  100 
feet  square,  protected  by  a  strong  rampart  and  ditch, 
and  standing  upon  the  bank  of  a  river  of  the  same 
name,  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Sir  Ranulph  de 
Soules,  warden  of  the  Border  in  the  reign  of  David  I. 
One  of  his  descendants,  Lord  Soules,  and  also  governor 
of  the  castle,  according  to  the  current  tradition,  was 
burnt  near  the  site  of  a  Druidical  temple,  on  a  hill  here, 
called  Nine-Stone  Ridge  ;  and  in  the  castle,  Sir  Alex- 
ander Ramsay,  of  Dalhousie,  was  starved  to  death  in 
190 


1342,  by  Sir  William  Douglas,  lord  of  Liddesdale.  The 
castle  was  visited  in  1561,  by  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots, 
who  travelled  from,  and  returned  to,  Jedburgh  in  the 
same  day,  over  mountains,  and  through  marshes  almost 
impassable.  Near  it  stood  the  chapel  of  Hermitage, 
now  a  ruin,  in  the  middle  of  a  burying-ground,  which  is 
still  in  use,  and  in  the  wall  of  which  is  fixed  the  ancient 
font.  The  lands  of  Liddesdale,  in  1540,  were  annexed 
to  the  crown,  by  act  of  parliament;  and  in  1648,  were 
granted  to  Francis,  Earl  of  Buccleuch,  whose  descendant, 
in  1747,  upon  the  abolition  of  heritable  jurisdictions, 
was  allowed  £600  as  a  compensation  for  the  regality. 

The  parish  is  the  largest  and  most  southerly  in  the 
count}',  and  about  eighteen  miles  long,  and  twelve  broad, 
containing  65,200  acres  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  north- 
east by  Northumberland,  and  on  the  south-east  by 
Cumberland.  The  southern  extremity  is  nearly  of  tri- 
angular form.  The  surface  is  diversified  to  a  high  de- 
gree ;  the  lower  part  of  the  parish  is  hilly,  and  in  the 
upper  part  the  country  is  entirely  mountainous,  rising 
abruptly,  in  many  instances,  to  a  great  elevation,  and 
affording  excellent  pasture  for  numerous  flocks  of  sheep. 
The  principal  mountains  are,  Greatmoor,  Millenwood 
Fell,  Tudhope,  Windhead,  and  Tinnis  Hill,  which  last  is 
seen  as  a  landmark  at  a  great  distance  from  the  ocean ; 
some  of  these  rise  as  much  as  2000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  give  a  wild  and  romantic  appearance  to 
this  division  of  the  parish.  The  part  inhabited  consists 
of  two  valleys,  one  of  which,  bordering  on  the  river 
Hermitage,  is  about  ten  miles  long,  from  the  source  of 
that  stream  until  it  loses  itself  in  the  Liddel ;  the  banks 
of  the  water  are  clothed  with  natural  wood,  which,  with 
the  general  character  of  the  scenery,  enlivened  with  the 
beautiful  current,  exhibits  a  rural  picture  of  the  most 
attractive  kind.  The  other  valley  is  that  lying  along 
the  sides  of  the  Liddel,  which  river,  as  well  as  the  Tyne, 
rises  near  the  head  of  the  parish,  on  the  north-east. 
The  Tyne  takes  its  course  to  the  east,  slowly  winding 
through  Northumberland  ;  and  the  Liddel  runs  directly 
west,  for  a  few  miles,  after  which  it  turns  to  the  south. 
The  country  through  which  the  latter  passes,  is  wild, 
bleak,  and  mountainous,  and,  for  ten  miles,  the  banks 
are  entirely  naked  ;  where  it  is  joined  by  the  Hermitage, 
however,  they  are  covered  with  trees,  and  flourishing 
plantations  there  constitute  prominent  features  in  the 
improving  and  beautiful  landscape.  In  addition  to  these 
streams,  are  the  Tinnis,  Blackburn,  Tweeden,  and  Ker- 
shope,  which  last  divides  the  two  kingdoms,  with  several 
others,  all  famed  for  their  supply  of  trout ;  there  are 
also  numerous  mineral  springs,  and  several  beautiful 
cascades  and  waterfalls  on  the  various  streams. 

The  soil  varies  considerably,  that  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  rivers  being  soft  and  rich,  while  the  higher 
grounds  exhibit  a  poorer  mould ;  in  some  parts,  it  is 
of  a  mossy  character.  Most  of  the  arable  land  lies  on 
the  banks  of  the  rivers  ;  wheat,  of  average  quality,  has 
been  produced,  but  the  ordinary  crops  are,  barley, 
oats,  potatoes,  and  turnips.  The  mossy  ground  is 
esteemed  for  the  use  of  black-cattle  and  sheep ;  the 
cattle  are  chiefly  the  Galloway,  Dutch,  and  Highland, 
many  of  winch  are  brought  by  the  farmers  from  the 
Falkirk  and  Doune  markets,  and  supported  during 
the  winter  upon  coarse  hay  and  other  fodder,  and 
after  being  fattened  on  the  pastures,  are  sold  towards 
the  end  of  summer.     The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 


CAST 


C  ATH 


parish  is  £12,126.  Several  plantations  have  been 
made  of  Scotch  fir,  spruce,  larch,  oak,  ash,  and  beech, 
which  are,  for  the  most  part,  in  a  flourishing  condition;  and 
the  natural  wood  consists  of  some  of  the  same  species, 
in  addition  to  a  considerable  quantity  of  alder.  There 
is  a  large  supply  of  limestone  of  various  qualities, 
which  is  wrought  to  a  great  extent  on  the  estates  of 
Lariston  and  Thorlieshope  ;  coal  is  obtained  on  the 
estate  of  Liddelbank  ;  and  quarries  of  freestone  are  in 
every  direction,  except  at  the  head  of  Hermitage,  where 
there  is  nothing  but  blue  whinstone.  The  village,  the 
building  of  which  was  commenced  in  1793,  by  the 
Duke  of  Buccleuch,  consists  principally  of  two  streets, 
named  the  Liddel  and  the  Hermitage ;  several  other 
streets  cross  these,  at  right  angles,  and  in  the  centre  is 
a  market-place,  called  Douglas-square,  round  which  the 
buildings  consist  of  two  stories.  There  are  also  smaller 
squares,  at  each  extremity  of  the  main  street.  Fairs  are 
held  for  the  sale  of  sheep  twice  a  year,  and  three  for 
hiring  servants,  in  April,  May,  and  November,  respec- 
tively ;  and  the  Eskdale  and  Liddesdale  Farmers'  Asso- 
ciation meet  once  in  every  three  years  at  Castleton. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery 
of  Langholm  and  synod  of  Dumfries,  and  the  patronage 
is  exercised  by  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £250,  with  a  good  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  twenty- 
five  acres.  The  church,  built  in  180S,  accommodates 
hetween  600  and  700  persons,  and  is  in  a  convenient 
situation,  at  the  junction  of  the  Liddel  and  Hermitage. 
The  Associate  Synod  have  a  place  of  worship.  There 
is  one  principal  parochial  school,  to  which  there  are 
three  auxiliaries  ;  the  salaries  of  the  masters  amount 
to  £51,  of  which  the  head  master  receives  £30,  leaving 
the  remaining  sum  to  be  equally  divided  among  the 
other  teachers  ;  the  fees  of  the  four  schools  are  about 
£70.  A  good  subscription  library  has  also  been  esta- 
blished, in  the  village.  Dr.  Armstrong,  author  of  the 
Art  of  Preserving  Health,  was  a  native  of  Castleton. 

CASTLETOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Crathie 
and  Braemar,  district  of  Kincardine  O'Neil,  county 
of  Aberdeen;  57  miles  (W.)  from  Aberdeen;  containing 
124  inhabitants.  This  village  is  situated  on  the  southern 
bank  of  the  Dee,  and  on  the  great  military  road  leading 
from  Blairgowrie  to  Fort  George  and  Aberdeen,  and 
is  usually  termed  Castletown  of  Braemar.  The  ancient 
castle  of  Braemar,  from  which  it  has  its  name,  standing 
on  a  gentle  acclivity  below  the  village,  in  a  pass  be- 
tween two  hills,  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  earls  of 
Mar,  who  possessed  the  neighbouring  lands,  and  was 
afterwards  converted  into  a  garrison,  for  the  intimida- 
tion of  the  Highland  chieftains.  It  was  leased  to  govern- 
ment in  1748,  for  ninety-nine  years,  for  barracks,  and 
has  since  been  occasionally  occupied  by  soldiers.  The 
spot  is  shown  here  where,  in  1715,  the  Earl  of  Mar 
raised  the  standard  of  the  Pretender ;  and  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  down  the  valley,  is  a  steep  rock  called 
"  Charters'  '  chests,"  so  named  from  a  cave  in  it,  of 
difficult  access,  where  the  charters  which  pertained  to 
the  Invercauld  property  were  deposited  during  the 
rebellion  of  the  earl.  There  is  a  post-office,  with  a  daily 
post  to  and  from  Aberdeen  ;  and  three  fairs  are  held 
annually,  two  chiefly  for  cattle,  and  the  other  for  cattle 
and  sheep.  An  ordained  missionary,  supported  by  the 
royal  bounty,  regularly  officiates  for  this  district ;  there 
is  also  a  chapel  for  Roman  Catholics.  Near  the  village, 
191 


are  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle  said  to  have  been  built 
as  a  hunting-seat  for  King  Malcolm  Canmore,  who 
erected  a  bridge  here  over  the  Cluny  water,  which 
stream,  at  a  short  distance  to  the  north,  falls  into  the 
Dee. 

CASTLETOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Olrick, 
county  of  Caithness,  5  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from  Thurso; 
containing  477  inhabitants.  This  is  a  remarkably  neat 
and  thriving  village,  situated  near  the  south  coast  of 
Dunnet  bay ;  it  owes  its  advancing  prosperity  to  its 
proximity  to  the  valuable  quarries  of  Castlehill,  of  which 
the  stone  is  known  by  the  name  of  Caithness  pavement. 
A  church  has  been  recently  built,  at  the  east  end  of 
the  village,  in  which,  also,  is  the  parochial  school ;  and 
a  female  school  has  been  partially  endowed. 

CATHCART,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  Lower  ward  of 
the  county  of  Lanark,  but  chiefly  in  the  Upper  ward 
of  the  county  of  Renfrew  ;  including  the  villages  of 
New  and  Old  Cathcart,  Clarkston,  Crosshill,  Crossmy- 
loof,  Hanginshaw,  Langside,  Millbridge,  and  Netherlee  ; 
and  containing  2349  inhabitants,  of  whom  174  are  in 
Old  Cathcart,  3  miles  (S.)  from  Glasgow.  This  place, 
which  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name,  of  Celtic 
origin,  from  the  situation  of  its  castle  on  the  river  Cart, 
is  of  remote  antiquity.  It  appears,  at  an  early  period, 
to  have  formed  part  of  the  possessions  of  Walter,  lord 
high  steward  of  Scotland,  who,  in  11 60,  granted  its 
church,  together  with  all  its  dependencies,  to  the  abbey 
of  Paisley,  which  he  had  founded.  The  remainder  of 
the  lands  became  the  property  of  the  ancient  family 
of  Cathcart,  of  whom  Sir  Alan,  in  1447,  was  raised  to 
the  peerage  by  James  II.,  under  the  title  of  Lord  Cath- 
cart ;  the  estates  were  alienated  by  Alan,  the  third 
lord,  in  1546,  and  then  belonged  to  the  Semples  for 
several  generations.  Of  the  Cathcart  family,  who  have 
again  become  owners  of  the  castle,  three  were  killed  in 
the  battle  of  Flodden  Field,  in  1513,  and  another  in 
the  battle  of  Pinkie,  in  1547;  the  fourth  lord  Cathcart 
distinguished  himself  at  the  battle  of  Langside,  and 
the  eighth  lord,  as  colonel  of  the  Scots  Greys,  contri- 
buted to  the  victory  obtained  over  the  rebel  army  at 
Sheriffmuir.  William,  the  tenth  lord,  who  commanded 
the  British  forces  at  the  taking  of  Copenhagen,  in  1807, 
was,  on  that  occasion,  created  viscount,  and,  in  1814, 
Earl  Cathcart. 

The  parish,  which  is  about  five  miles  in  length,  and 
from  one  and  a  half  to  two  miles  in  breadth,  is  bounded 
on  the  north  and  east  by  the  county  of  Lanark.  The 
surface  is  beautifully  diversified  with  gentle  undulations, 
and  detached  hills  of  greater  elevation,  cultivated  to 
their  summits  ;  and  is  intersected  with  the  windings  of 
the  river  Cart,  in  some  parts  flowing  with  gentle  course, 
through  verdant  meadows,  and  in  others  forcing  its 
way  between  rugged  and  precipitous  banks,  thickly 
wooded.  The  number  of  acres  is  2950,  of  which,  with 
the  exception  of  about  90  in  woodland  and  plantations, 
and  about  60  in  lawns  and  pleasure-grounds,  the  whole 
is  arable,  and  in  cultivation.  The  soil  is  generally  fer- 
tile, and  the  system  of  agriculture  has  been  greatly  im- 
proved;  the  rotation  plan  of  husbandry  is  prevalent, 
and  the  lands  have  been  rendered  more  productive  by 
furrow-draining.  The  chief  crops  are,  oats,  potatoes, 
wheat,  and  hay,  in  regular  succession,  for  which  ready 
sale  is  found  in  the  markets  of  Glasgow  and  other 
towns.      The   rateable    annual  value    of  the  parish   is 


C  ATH 


C  AT  R 


£89*25.  The  substratum  is  part  of  the  coal  basin  which 
extends  from  the  hills  of  Campsie,  on  the  north,  to 
those  of  Cathkin,  on  the  south ;  there  are  several  coal- 
mines in  the  parish,  but  none  at  present  in  operation. 
Limestone  and  freestone  are  also  abundant,  and  a  large 
quarry  of  the  latter,  at  Crosshill,  is  extensively  wrought ; 
in  the  channel  of  the  Cart,  are  numerous  minerals,  of 
which  a  valuable  collection  has  been  presented,  by  Lord 
Greenock,  to  the  Hunterian  museum  of  Glasgow.  Cart- 
side  Cottage,  the  residence  of  Earl  Cathcart,  is  a  hand- 
some seat,  near  the  remains  of  the  ancient  castle,  which, 
from  its  strength,  has  resisted  all  attempts  to  remove  it, 
and  still  forms  an  interesting  ruin,  defended  on  two 
sides  by  the  precipitous  banks  of  the  river.  Aikenhead 
is  also  a  handsome  and  spacious  mansion,  consisting  of 
a  centre  and  two  wings,  finely  situated,  and  surrounded 
by  a  large  demesne  tastefully  embellished  with  wood  and 
plantations.  The  principal  manufacture  is  that  of  hand- 
loom  weaving,  in  which  about  one  hundred  families  are 
employed,  at  their  own  dwellings,  for  the  manufacturers 
of  Glasgow  and  Paisley  ;  on  the  river  Cart,  is  an  exten- 
sive paper-mill,  originally  established  by  a  French  re- 
fugee, in  1685,  and  on  the  same  stream,  is  a  mill  for  the 
manufacture  of  snuff.  There  are  also  extensive  corn- 
mills  ;  and  on  the  river,  just  before  it  enters  the  parish 
of  Eastwood,  is  a  bleachfield,  at  Newlands,  but  the  per- 
sons employed  in  it  mostly  belong  to  Pollockshaws. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Glasgow  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £276,  with 
a  manse,  built  in  1S18,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £16.  10. 
per  annum  ;  patron,  John  Gordon,  Esq.  The  old 
church,  which  contained  only  1 50  sittings,  and  was 
greatly  dilapidated,  was  taken  down,  and  the  present 
church  erected,  in  1832,  at  an  expense  of  £2500,  by 
the  heritors  ;  it  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  later 
English  style,  with  a  square  embattled  tower,  and  con- 
tains 1000  sittings.  The  parochial  school  was  built 
in  J  S30,  at  a  cost  of  £500  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£30,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average 
about  £15.  The  Cathcart  Club,  which  holds  its  annual 
meetings  in  Glasgow,  generally  distributes  about  £25 
per  annum  among  such  of  the  needy  families  in  the 
parish  as  do  not  apply  for  parochial  aid.  On  the  hill  of 
Langside  are  some  remains  of  what  is  supposed  to  have 
been  a  Roman  camp,  and  which,  from  its  having  been 
occupied  by  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  while  an  anxious 
spectator  of  the  battle  of  Langside,  is  called  by  the 
people  Queen  Mary's  camp.  A  Roman  vase,  of  elegant 
workmanship,  was  discovered  about  the  commencement 
of  the  present  century,  by  the  late  minister  of  the  parish, 
while  digging  for  the  foundation  of  a  house  at  Wood- 
End,  and  is  now  in  the  Hunterian  museum.  On  the 
farm  of  Overlee,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Cart,  nume- 
rous subterranean  buildings  have  been  found ;  the  sides 
were  from  four  to  five  feet  in  length,  faced  with  un- 
dressed stone,  and  in  the  floors,  which  were  paved  with 
thin  flags,  were  excavations  as  if  for  fire-places,  in  which 
ashes  were  found.  The  Rev.  Principal  Carstairs  was 
a  native  of  the  parish,  of  which  his  father  was  minister. 
— See  Clarkston,  Langside,  &c. 

CATHCART,  NEW,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cath- 
cart, county   of  Renfrew,  \   a  mile   (W.)    from  Old 
Cathcart ;   containing  280  inhabitants.     This  village  is 
of  very  modern  date,   and  is  indebted  for  its  origin  to 
192 


the  opening  of  a  new  line  of  road  into  the  county  of 
Ayr,  which  is  carried  over  the  river  Cart,  near  this 
place,  by  a  neat  bridge,  erected  in  1800.  The  inhabit- 
ants were  greatly  increased  in  number,  by  the  opening 
of  a  coal-mine,  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  in  which  the 
greater  portion  of  them  were  employed  ;  but  this  has 
recently  been  suspended  in  its  operation. 

CATRINE,  a  manufacturing  village,  and  until  re- 
cently a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the  parish  of  Sorn, 
district  of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr,  1\  miles  (E.  by  S.) 
from  Mauchline  ;  containing  2659  inhabitants.  This 
place,  which,  prior  to  the  year  1786,  contained  only  the 
two  families  of  the  miller  and  the  blacksmith  of  the  pa- 
rish, is  indebted,  both  for  its  origin  and  progress,  to 
the  establishment  of  the  cotton  manufacture,  at  that 
time,  by  the  late  Claud  Alexander,  Esq.,  of  Balloeh- 
myle,  and  David  Dale,  Esq.,  a  merchant  of  Glasgow. 
These  works,  after  being  carried  on  for  a  few  years, 
were  purchased  from  the  original  proprietors  by  Messrs. 
Finlay  and  Company,  of  Glasgow,  who  enlarged  the 
concern,  and  brought  it  to  its  present  flourishing  con- 
dition. The  buildings  are  spacious,  and  replete  with 
machinery  of  every  kind  ;  two  water-wheels,  each  fifty 
feet  in  diameter,  estimated  at  200  horse-power,  have 
been  erected  for  giving  motion  to  the  machinery,  and 
two  steam-engines,  of  sixty  horse-power  each,  have  been 
added,  to  secure  the  continuance  of  the  work  under  any 
failure  of  water.  In  the  bleaching-works,  also,  the 
requisite  machinery  is  propelled  by  a  water-wheel  of 
thirty-two  feet  diameter,  and  by  a  steam-engine  of 
twenty-eight  horse-power.  Every  process  of  the  cotton 
manufacture  is  carried  on,  with  the  utmost  regularity  ; 
the  raw  material  sent  from  Glasgow  is  spun,  woven, 
bleached,  and  finished,  either  for  home  consumption,  or 
for  exportation  to  foreign  markets.  In  the  bleaching- 
works,  which  were  established  in  1824,  in  addition  to 
the  goods  produced  in  the  cotton  factory  of  this  place, 
all  the  cloth  manufactured  at  the  other  works  of  the 
company  are  bleached  ;  the  process  is  carried  on  within 
the  walls,  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  and  from  150  to 
200  acres  of  land,  which  would  be  requisite  for  the 
exclusive  purpose  of  a  bleachfield,  are  thus  appropri- 
ated to  agricultural  uses.  The  number  of  persons  em- 
ployed in  both  the  works  is  960. 

The  village,  which  alone  constituted  the  parish,  is 
pleasantly  situated  in  an  extensive  and  picturesque  vale, 
through  which  the  river  Ayr  pursues  its  winding 
course,  and  is  neatly  built  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
river,  over  which  is  a  handsome  stone  bridge  ;  it  is 
lighted  with  gas  of  the  very  best  quality,  from  works 
which  have  been  considered  the  most  excellent  in  Ayr- 
shire for  economy  of  production.  There  are  two  public 
libraries,  containing  each  a  collection  of  from  600  to 
700  volumes,  and  supported  by  subscribers ;  a  phi- 
losophical library ;  and  a  library  in  connexion  with 
a  Sunday  school.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  also 
employed  in  hand-loom  weaving,  for  the  manufacturers 
of  Glasgow  and  Paisley,  and  several  in  the  various 
trades  requisite  for  the  supply  of  the  population ;  a 
penny-post  has  been  established,  and  there  is  an  ex- 
cellent market  on  Saturday,  for  provisions  of  all 
kinds.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  pres- 
bytery of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr.  A 
chapel  of  ease  was  built  by  Mr.  Alexander,  in  1*92,  at 
an  expense  of  £1000;  it  was  purchased  by  the  feuars 


CAVE 


CAVE 


of  the  village,  about  ten  years  ago,  as  they  were  bound 
by  contract  to  erect  a  chapel  and  enclose  a  burying- 
ground,  and  it  afterwards  became  the  church  of  the 
parochial  district  which  has  been  recently  dissolved. 
It  is  a  substantial  edifice,  adapted  for  a  congregation 
of  730  persons,  and,  by  the  subsequent  addition  of 
galleries,  has  been  made  to  contain  1 1 60  sittings  ;  the 
patronage  is  exercised  by  the  communicants.  Places 
of  worship  have  been  built  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church  and  the  United  Secession ;  and  a  school  for  the 
children  in  the  works,  has  been  long  supported  by  the 
proprietors.  A  friendly  society  was  established  in 
1S29,  and  has  a  fund  of  £300  ;  it  is  well  supported, 
and  has  been  found  very  beneficial  in  obviating  neces- 
sity for  parochial  relief.  The  late  Dugald  Stewart,  the 
eminent  professor  of  moral  philosophy,  had  a  summer 
residence  here. 

CATTERLINE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kinneff 
and  Catterline,  county  of  Kincardine,  5  miles  (N. 
by  E.)  from  Stonehaven ;  containing  79  inhabitants. 
This  village  is  situated  on  the  eastern  coast,  and  chiefly 
inhabited  by  fishers,  who  have  two  boats,  and  take  cod, 
ling,  skate,  haddock,  and  various  kinds  of  shell-fish. 
A  small  harbour  has  been  constructed  by  the  erection 
of  a  pier,  at  the  expense  of  Viscount  Arbuthnott,  which 
affords  facilities  for  the  landing  of  coal,  lime,  and  other 
necessary  supplies ;  and  from  the  natural  advantages  of 
the  situation,  there  is  great  probability  of  its  further 
extension.  A  coast-guard  station  has  also  been  esta- 
blished here. 

CAULDHAME,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Kippen, 
county  of  Perth  ;   containing  70  inhabitants. 

CAUSEYHEAD,  a  village,  partly  in  the  parish  of 
Logie,  county  of  Clackmannan,  and  partly  in  the  pa- 
rish and  county  of  Stirling,  1  mile  (N.  by  E.)  from 
Stirling  ;  containing  309  inhabitants.  It  takes  its  name 
from  its  situation,  being  the  head  of  the  long  causeway 
of  Stirling.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  a  sandstone  quarry, 
of  which  the  material  is  used  for  ordinary  purposes. 

CAUSEYSIDE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Old 
Monkland,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark; 
containing  367  inhabitants. 

CAVA,  a  small  islet,  in  the  parish  of  Orphir, 
county  of  Orkney  ;  containing  23  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  about  two  miles  south  from  Pomona,  and  is 
about  a  mile  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
breadth.  There  is  a  ruinous  chapel  on  the  island,  and 
around  it  a  churchyard. 

CAVERS,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Hawick, 
county  of  Roxburgh,  2  miles  (N.  E.  by  E.)  from  Hawick; 
containing,  with  the  village  of  Denholm,  1709  inhabit- 
ants. The  name  of  this  place  is  supposed  to  be  derived 
from  a  compound  British  word  signifying  "a  short  field" 
or  "  inclosure,"  applied  originally  to  a  part  of  the  parish. 
There  are  several  camps  of  Roman  and  Saxon  origin, 
and  also  a  defence-ditch,  constructed  by  the  Picts,  and 
about  seven  miles  long,  all  indicating  the  character  of 
those  who,  in  remote  antiquity,  occupied  the  locality  ; 
but  no  information  remains  as  to  any  transactions  of  so 
distant  a  period.  The  lands,  in  1398,  were  granted  to 
George,  Earl  of  Angus,  and,  in  1402,  came  to  Isabel, 
Countess  of  Mar,  who,  without  consent  of  the  king, 
transferred  them  to  the  Earl  of  Douglas,  then  a  prisoner 
in  England.  This  neglect  appears  to  have  vitiated  the 
assignment,  and  the  property  consequently  escheated  to 
Vol.  I.— 193 


the  king,  Robert  III.,  who,  in  1405,  gave  it  to  Sir  David 
Fleming,  of  Biggar,  as  a  reward  for  his  loyalty  and 
eminent  services.  Sir  David,  a  short  time  after,  was 
assassinated  by  James,  son  of  Archibald,  Earl  of  Dou- 
glas, after  which,  the  lands,  with  the  sheriffdom  of  Rox- 
burghshire, remained  in  the  family  of  Douglas  till  the 
abolition  of  heritable  jurisdictions.  The  town  of  Cavers 
was  taken  and  laid  waste  by  the  English,  in  1596,  and 
appears  not  to  have  been  rebuilt.  The  advowson  of  the 
church  once  belonged  to  Melrose  Abbey,  having  been 
granted  to  that  establishment  by  William,  first  earl  of 
Douglas,  who  was  interred  at  Melrose,  in  1384. 

The  parish  is  about  twenty-four  miles  long,  and 
from  two  to  eight  miles  in  breadth,  and  contains  about 
76,000  acres ;  its  outline,  like  its  surface,  is  altogether 
irregular,  intersecting,  and  being  intersected  by,  several 
other  parishes.  The  scenery  comprises  hill  and  dale, 
pasture  and  arable  land,  wood  and  water,  all  uniting  to 
produce  an  agreeable  landscape.  The  lower  part  of  the 
district  consists  of  a  series  of  continuous  undulations, 
well  cultivated,  inclosed  with  neatly-trained  hedge-rows, 
and  occasionally  ornamented  with  choice  plantations  ; 
the  upper  division  is  of  an  entirely  different  character, 
being  altogether  pastoral,  and  diversified  chiefly  with 
verdant  hills  and  woody  brakes,  which  relieve  the  uni- 
formity of  its  wild  and  spreading  tracts  of  grazing  land. 
The  numerous  hills,  the  peculiar  features  of  which  are 
their  graceful  and  well-rounded  summits,  are  covered  in 
summer  with  a  rich  verdure,  and  have  some  very  fine 
views.  The  loftiest  mountain  is  the  Wisp,  which  rises 
1830  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  commands  a  pros- 
pect, to  the  eastward,  of  the  sea  at  Berwick-upon-Tweed; 
to  the  south  and  west,  of  the  Solway  Frith,  and,  in  a 
clear  day,  the  Isle  of  Man.  There  are  several  other 
mountains  of  nearly  the  same  elevation,  which  exhibit 
almost  every  diversity  of  position,  form,  and  surface,  all 
combining  to  produce  a  powerful  impression  on  the 
admirer  of  this  description  of  scenery.  The  principal 
river  is  the  Teviot,  which  rises  in  the  parish,  and  forms 
its  north-western  boundary  ;  the  Slitrige  also  rises  in 
the  parish,  and,  after  winding  about  through  a  great 
variety  of  interesting  scenery,  is  lost  in  the  Teviot  at 
Hawick.  All  the  streams  in  these  parts  abound  in 
trout,  and  are  annually  visited,  in  the  principal  spawn- 
ing season,  about  Martinmas,  by  salmon  from  the  sea. 

The  soil  is  very  various  ;  rich  and  fertile  near  the 
confluence  of  the  Teviot  and  Rule  ;  in  the  lower  division, 
generally  a  good  productive  mould  ;  but  in  the  more 
elevated  lands,  of  inferior  character,  and  occasionally 
bare  and  rocky.  The  higher  grounds  are  employed 
chiefly  for  the  pasturage  of  sheep,  of  which  the  total 
number  is  about  ]  1,500,  all  of  the  pure  Cheviot  breed  : 
the  cattle,  to  the  rearing  of  which  great  attention  has 
been  paid,  are  chiefly  the  Teeswater.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £12,493.  The  principal 
mansions  are,  Cavers  House,  the  seat  of  the  Douglas 
family ;  and  Stobs  Castle,  the  property  of  Sir  William  F. 
Eliott,  Bart.  There  are  several  good  turnpike-roads,  of 
which  thatbetweenEdinburgh  and  Carlisle  passes  through 
the  upper  part  of  the  parish;  another  runs  through  the 
lower  part,  to  Jedburgh,  Kelso,  and  other  places,  and  a 
third,  along  the  Slitrige,  communicates  with  the  English 
border  counties.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to 
the  presbytery  of  Jedburgh  and  synod  of  Merse  and 
Teviotdale ;  patron,  James  Douglas,  Esq.     The  stipend 

2  C 


C  A  W  D 


CERE 


of  the  minister  is  £250,  with  a  manse,  built  in  1813. 
The  church  is  an  elegant  and  substantial  edifice,  situated 
in  the  lower  division  of  the  parish ;  it  was  built  in  1S21, 
with  sittings  for  about  400  persons,  and  is  in  very  good 
repair.  There  is  also  a  chapel  at  Caerlanrig,  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  parish,  erected  by  the  inhabitants 
about  forty  years  ago,  and  supposed  to  have  succeeded 
several  others,  which  stood  on  the  same  site.  The  Duke 
of  Buccleuch,  who  supplied  the  ground,  and  materials 
for  the  building,  allows  the  minister  £25  per  annum  ; 
and  he  receives  several  other  contributions,  making  up 
a  sum  of  about  £50  as  a  salary,  and  also  has  a  manse. 
There  are  three  parochial  schools,  situated  at  Denholm, 
Stobs,  and  Caerlanrig ;  the  master  at  Denholm  has  a 
salary  of  £30,  with  about  £25  fees,  and  the  other  masters 
each  receive  from  £12  to  £15  salary,  and  about  £20 
fees.  Some  time  ago,  a  large  stock  of  gold  coins  was 
found  at  Priest-haugh,  supposed  to  have  been  hidden  by 
the  attendants  of  Queen  Mary,  when  she  visited  Both- 
well  at  Hermitage  Castle,  in  Liddesdale,  in  1561.  At 
Caerlanrig,  the  celebrated  border  robber,  John  Arm- 
strong, of  Gilknockie,  with  several  of  his  companions, 
was  executed  by  order  of  King  James  V. 

CAVE RTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  ofEcKFORD, 
district  of  Kelso,  county  of  Roxburgh,  4^  miles  (S. 
by  E.)  from  Kelso  ;  containing  50  inhabitants.  It  is  in 
the  vicinity  of  an  extensive  common,  on  which  is  a  race- 
course, where  the  Kelso  races  are  held. 

CAWDOR,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county  of  Inver- 
ness, but  chiefly  in  that  of  Nairn;  containing  1150 
inhabitants,  of  whom  146  are  in  the  village  of  Cawdor, 
5-§  miles  (S.  S.  W.)  from  Nairn.  This  place  was  an- 
ciently called  Barewan,  or  Barivan,  from  the  situation 
of  the  original  church,  of  which  there  are  some  remains 
in  the  braes  or  hilly  parts  of  the  parish,  and  from  its 
patron  saint,  Ewan.  It  has  for  several  centuries,  how- 
ever, been  distinguished  by  the  appellation  of  Calder, 
or  Cawdor,  the  name  of  a  tributary  stream  flowing 
through  it  into  the  river  Nairn,  and  of  which  the  banks, 
richly  wooded,  and  crowned  with  a  stately  baronial 
castle,  have  long  been  celebrated  for  their  romantic 
beauty.  Connected  with  this  fortress,  for  the  erection 
of  which  a  royal  license  was  obtained  in  1393,  are 
some  highly  interesting  historical  allusions.  The  mur- 
der of  Duncan,  King  of  Scotland,  has  been  traditionally 
referred  to  this  place,  aud  the  room  is  still  shown  in 
which  it  is  said  to  have  occurred  ;  but  the  date  of  the 
building  sufficiently  contradicts  this  opinion,  which 
may  have  been  erroneously  derived  from  the  circum- 
stance of  Macbeth's  inferior  title  being  Thane  of  Cawdor. 
During  the  rebellion  in  1745,  Lord  Lovat,  who  had 
taken  an  active  part  in  that  transaction,  found  refuge 
from  his  pursuers  in  a  retired  apartment  of  this  castle, 
in  which,  for  a  considerable  time,  he  lay  concealed. 

The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
river  Nairn,  is  about  four  miles  in  length,  and  of  very 
irregular  form,  varying  from  one  mile  to  five  miles  in 
breadth,  with  a  narrow  strip  extending  southward  for 
nearly  sixteen  miles,  and  crossing  the  river  Findhorn. 
It  comprises  35,313  acres,  of  which  more  than  3000 
are  arable,  upwards  of  5000  acres  woodland  and  plan- 
tations, and  the  remainder  pasture  and  moor.  The 
surface,  for  nearly  a  mile  from  the  bank  of  the  Nairn, 
is  a  continued  plane,  rising  towards  the  south  into 
hills  of  considerable  elevation,  of  which  the  acclivities 
194 


near  the  base  are  in  excellent  cultivation,  the  higher 
portions  richly  planted,  and  the  summits  covered  with 
heath.  The  soil,  in  the  plains,  is  a  loam  of  moderate 
fertility,  resting  on  sand  and  gravel,  and  the  hills  afford 
tolerable  pasture  for  cattle  ;  the  lower  hills  are  com- 
posed chiefly  of  old  red  sandstone,  and  in  the  higher 
are  beds  of  gneiss,  interspersed  with  veins  of  granite. 
The  system  of  agriculture  has  been  greatly  improved, 
under  the  auspices  of  the  Nairnshire  Farming  Societ}', 
who  hold  annual  meetings  here,  at  which  they  award 
premiums  for  the  best  specimens  of  stock  ;  the  crops 
consist  of  grain  of  every  kind,  potatoes,  and  turnips, 
and  the  rotation  plan  of  husbandry  is  predominant. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2370. 
Timber  attains  a  luxuriant  growth  ;  oak,  ash,  fir,  alder, 
and  birch  are  indigenous  to  the  soil,  and  the  planta- 
tions consist  mostly  of  beech,  larch,  lime,  sycamore, 
and  elm.  The  prevailing  character  of  the  scenery  is 
beautifully  picturesque. 

Cawdor  Castle,  the  seat  of  Earl  Cawdor,  and  his 
occasional  residence,  is  a  stately  structure  in  good 
preservation,  and  of  much  strength  ;  the  walls,  which  are 
of  great  thickness,  and  crowned  with  battlements,  are 
defended  by  a  lofty  tower,  which  is  the  most  ancient 
portion  of  the  building,  and  the  whole  presents  a  fine 
specimen  of  baronial  grandeur.  The  village,  which  is 
neatly  built,  obtained  a  charter  of  incorporation  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  I. ;  but  it  never  exercised  any  of  the 
privileges  conferred  upon  it,  or  rose  into  any  importance. 
The  only  manufacture  carried  on  is  that  of  whisky,  in 
the  well  known  Brackla  distillery;  a  penny-post  has 
been  established,  as  a  branch  of  the  office  at  Nairn, 
and  the  roads  are  kept  in  good  repair.  The  ecclesias- 
tical affairs  of  the  parish,  which  has  been  augmented 
with  portions  of  those  of  Nairn  and  Auldearn,  are 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Nairn 
and  S5mod  of  Moray.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £156, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £7  ;  patron,  Earl 
Cawdor.  The  church,  built  in  16 19,  and  repaired  and 
improved  in  1830,  is  a  neat  structure,  containing  681 
sittings ;  the  service  is  performed  alternately  in  the 
English  and  Gaelic  languages.  There  is  a  place  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £34,  and  the  fees  average  about  £10.  A  school  was 
lately  established,  and  is  supported  by  the  Society  for 
Propagating  Christian  Knowledge,  who  also  support  a 
school  for  females  ;  and  another  female  school  is  endowed 
by  the  Countess  Cawdor. 

CERES,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cupar,  county 
of  Fife  ;  containing,  with  the  villages  of  Chance-Inn 
and  Craigrothie,  2944  inhabitants,  of  whom  1079  are 
in  the  village  of  Ceres,  2^  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Cupar. 
This  place,  of  which  the  name  is  of  very  uncertain 
derivation,  appears  to  have  consisted  originally  of  seve- 
ral distinct  baronies,  belonging  to  various  families  of 
importance.  The  parish  is  about  eight  miles  in  length, 
aud  of  extremely  irregular  form,  varying  from  about 
half  a  mile  to  four  miles  in  breadth.  The  surface  is 
pleasingly  varied  with  hills  and  level  plains,  and  inter- 
sected by  different  streams,  of  which  the  principal  is 
the  Eden,  winding  along  the  north-western  boundary 
of  the  parish,  for  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half;  this  beau- 
tiful river  formerly  abounded  with  trout  of  excellent 
quality,  which,  since  the  erection  of  some  manufactories 


CERE 


CHAN 


on  its  banks,  have  greatly  diminished  in  number.  Two 
rivulets,  flowing  respectively  from  the  south  and  west, 
unite  their  streams  in  approaching  the  village  of  Ceres, 
and  form  the  small  river  of  that  name,  which,  after 
passing  through  the  village,  falls  into  the  Eden ;  it  is 
subject  to  violent  inundations,  which  have  destroyed 
one  stone  bridge  of  great  strength,  and  occasionally  do 
much  damage  to  the  lands.  The  general  scenery  is 
diversified  ;  and  the  ruins  of  several  ancient  baronial 
mansions,  which  occupy  commanding  situations,  and 
retain  much  of  their  original  grandeur,  give  an  air  of 
romantic  interest  to  the  landscape. 

The  soil  is  various ;  along  the  banks  of  the  Eden,  it 
is  of  light  sandy  quality  ;  in  other  parts,  a  fine  loose 
mould,  interspersed  with  clay  ;  and  in  others,  consists 
of  moss  and  moorlands,  which,  by  the  recent  improve- 
ments that  have  taken  place  in  agriculture,  have  been 
rendered  fertile.  The  number  of  acres  in  the  parish,  is 
estimated  at  about  8000,  of  which  3200  are  arable, 
about  4000  in  pasture,  and  800  in  plantations  and 
moor  ;  the  system  of  husbandry  is  in  a  very  advanced 
state.  The  cattle,  of  which  great  numbers  are  fed  for 
the  neighbouring  markets,  are  of  various  breeds ;  and 
great  quantities  of  pork  are  sent  hence,  to  the  London 
and  other  markets.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £12,562.  The  plantations  are  well  managed 
and  flourishing  ;  and  on  the  lands  belonging  to  several 
of  the  proprietors,  is  some  stately  timber.  The  sub- 
strata are  chiefly  freestone,  whinstone,  and  limestone, 
with  portions  of  columnar  basalt ;  and  coal  is  found 
in  some  parts  of  the  parish.  The  freestone  and  whin- 
stone  are  extensively  quarried  for  building  and  other 
purposes,  and  large  quantities  of  the  latter  are  employed 
in  the  construction  of  drains  and  fences ;  the  limestone 
is  very  abundant,  of  various  qualities,  and  also  wrought 
to  a  great  extent.  The  coal,  which  is  likewise  of 
various  quality,  has  been  extensively  wrought,  but  the 
workings  have  been  discontinued  for  some  years;  the 
seams  of  coal  are  found  in  a  direction  parallel  with  the 
limestone,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  masses  of  trap. 
Edenwood,  the  property  of  Sir  George  Campbell,  is 
a  splendid  modern  mansion,  beautifully  situated  in 
grounds  tastefully  laid  out;  and  Teasses  is  also  a  hand- 
some mansion,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  Frith  of 
Forth. 

A  considerable  number  of  the  inhabitants  are  em- 
ployed in  the  spinning  of  flax,  tow,  and  yarn,  the  raw 
materials  for  which  are  brought  from  Dundee,  to  which 
town,  and  also  to  the  manufacturers  of  Fife,  the  yarn 
is  sent.  Two  mills  for  these  purposes  were  erected  in 
1827,  on  the  lands  of  Pitscottie  Easter ;  they  are  usually 
propelled  by  water,  but  in  dry  seasons,  when  the 
supply  of  water  is  insufficient,  are  driven  by  steam, 
and  they  afford  employment  to  a  considerable  number 
of  persons.  There  is  also  a  spinning-mill  at  Tarvet, 
which  was  erected  in  1799,  and  is  driven  partly  by 
water,  and  partly  by  steam,  and  which  also  comprises 
machinery  for  sawing  timber.  A  bleaching  establish- 
ment was  opened  at  Duraden  in  1825,  which,  from  a 
well  of  that  name  in  the  vicinity  of  the  works,  is  called 
the  St.  Ann's  Bleaching  Company  ;  and  affords  employ- 
ment to  about  forty  persons.  The  articles  woven  in 
the  parish  were  formerly  confined  to  brown  Silesias ; 
but,  since  the  erection  of  the  mills,  and  the  establish- 
ment of  the  bleachfield,  sheetings  and  dowlas  have  been 
195 


chiefly  manufactured ;  about  900  persons  are  thus 
employed,  and  the  average  value  of  their  produce 
amounts  to  £60,000  per  annum.  The  village  is  plea- 
santly situated,  and  surrounded  by  scenery  containing 
many  highly  interesting  features  ;  the  river  Ceres  flows 
through  the  centre  of  it,  and  a  good  bridge  of  stone 
has  been  erected.  The  houses  are  chiefly  inhabited  by 
persons  engaged  in  weaving  and  in  the  various  manu- 
factures carried  on  in  the  parish  ;  it  has  been  consi- 
derably extended  by  the  erection  of  numerous  houses 
beyond  the  bridge,  and  the  church,  which  was  formerly 
at  one  extremity  of  it,  is  now,  by  that  addition,  almost 
in  its  centre.  Fairs  are  held  on  the  24th  June  and 
20th  October,  for  the  sale  of  wool,  grain  of  all  kinds, 
cattle,  and  horses,  and  are  numerously  attended. 

The  church  formerly  belonged  to  the  religious  esta- 
blishment of  Kirkheugh,  at  St.  Andrew's,  and  was  after- 
wards under  the  direction  of  that  presbytery  ;  but  the 
ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish  are  now  under  the 
controul  of  the  presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod  of  Fife. 
The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £229.  13.  :  the  manse 
was  built  in  1788,  and  the  glebe  comprises  about 
seven  acres  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Glasgow.  The  church, 
erected  in  1806,  near  the  site  of  the  former,  is  a  neat 
and  substantial  edifice,  adapted  for  a  congregation  of 
1100  persons.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  mem- 
bers of  the  Free  Church,  Associated  Antiburghers,  and 
the  Relief  persuasion.  The  parochial  school  affords  a 
liberal  course  of  instruction,  including  the  classics  and 
mathematics;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  and  £38 
fees,  with  a  house.  In  the  old  church,  was  an  aisle 
belonging  to  the  family  at  Craighall,  which,  previously 
to  the  Reformation,  was  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St. 
Ninian.  There  are  some  interesting  remains  of  the  seat 
of  Craighall,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  village  of  Ceres  ; 
they  are  situated  on  the  bank  of  a  deep,  sequestered, 
and  richly-wooded  dell,  and  still  present  a  striking 
memorial  of  ancient  grandeur.  The  remains  of  Struthers, 
the  seat  of  the  earls  of  Crawfurd,  situated  in  a  park  of 
200  acres  inclosed  with  a  stone  wall,  have  been  reduced 
to  a  mere  ruin ;  the  venerable  and  stately  timber  on  the 
lands,  has  either  perished  or  been  cut  down,  and  of  the 
once  splendid  castle,  with  its  lofty  embattled  towers, 
one  solitary  tower  alone  is  left.  The  parish  also  con- 
tains another  old  residence,  a  tower,  about  twenty- 
five  feet  square,  and  sixty  feet  high,  built  of  hewn  free- 
stone, and  situated  on  an  eminence  commanding  an 
extensive  prospect  over  the  surrounding  country.  Lind- 
say, of  Pitscottie,  author  of  a  history  of  Scotland,  was  a 
native  of  this  place;  and  Thomas  Haliburton,  professor 
of  divinity  in  the  university  of  St.  Andrew's,  was 
minister  of  it. 

CESSFORD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Eckford, 
district  of  Kelso,  county  of  Roxburgh,  6  miles  (N.  E.) 
from  Jedburgh;  containing  150  inhabitants.  It  is  situ- 
ated in  Teviotdale,  and  near  the  Teviot  stream,  which 
here  runs  on  the  west,  and  immediately  afterwards  takes 
a  south-westerly  direction.  Near  the  village  are  the 
remains  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Cessford,  which  gives 
the  title  of  Baron  to  the  Duke  of  Roxburgh. 

CHANCE  INN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Ceres, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife,  2  miles  (S.  by  W.) 
from  Cupar;  containing  132  inhabitants.  It  is  in  the 
western  part  of  the  parish,  and  on  the  borders  of  the 
parish  of  Cults,  and  has  a  post-office. 

2  C  2 


CHAN 


CHAR 


CHANNELKIRK,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ber- 
wick, 6  miles   (N.  N.  W.)    from   Lauder,   on  the  road 
between  Edinburgh  and  Kelso  ;  containing  7 SO  inhabit- 
ants.    The  name  of  this  place  is  said  to  have  been  origi- 
nally Childer-kirk,  signifying  "  the  children's  kirk,"  some 
supposing  it  to  have  been  so  called  from  the  dedication 
of  its  church  to  the  Innocents ;   it  has  also  been  written 
Childln-kirk,  meaning,  according  to  others,  "  the  church 
at.  the  fort,"  on  account  of  the  church  and  village  stand- 
ing within  the  area  of  a  Roman  camp.     The  numerous 
Pictish  encampments,  traces  of  which  yet  remain  in  the 
parish,  show  it  to  have  been,  in  ancient  times,  the  scene 
of  military  commotion,  of  the   particulars   of  which  no 
information  is  recorded.     The  monks  of  Melrose  Abbey 
were  accustomed  to  pass  along  a  road  running  through 
this  district,  in  their  way  to  and  from  Edinburgh,  and 
rested  and  refreshed  themselves  at  a  house  a  few  miles 
west   from    the    church,    called    the   "  Resh    Law,"    or 
"  Restlaw    Haw,"  which  was  about  half  way  between 
Melrose  and  Edinburgh,  and  the  ruins  of  which  still 
remain.     The   parish  is  of  circular  figure,  measuring 
about  six  miles  in  diameter,  and  contains  upwards  of 
17,000  acres.     The  surface  is  marked  by  hills  and  val- 
leys, having   but  a  small  portion  of  level  ground.     To- 
wards the  north  and  west,  the  lofty  hills,  which  form  a 
part   of  the   Lammermoor  range,  separate  the  counties 
of  East   and   Mid  Lothian  from  the  shire  of  Berwick, 
and  are  for  the  most  part  bleak,  and  covered  with  heath. 
The  highest  hill,  in  that   direction,    is    Soutra,    which 
attains  an  elevation  of   1000  feet  above  the  sea.     The 
vale  of  the  Leader  commences  here,  stretching  out  to 
the    east,    and    having  the  Lammermoor  hills    for    its 
northern   boundary ;    on  the  south,   is  a  moory  ridge 
which  separates  it  from  the  valley  of  Gala.     There  are 
numerous  springs  of  good  water,  running  from  all  the 
hills  ;    but  the  only  river  is  the  Leader,  which,  after 
receiving,  in  the  principal -valley  through  which  it  glides, 
several   mountain  streamlets,  flows  onwards  for  about 
seventeen  miles,  and  falls  into  the  Tweed  below  Melrose. 
The  soil,  near  the  banks  of  the  river,  is  a  light  dry 
earth,  resting  upon  a  deep  subsoil  of  sandy  gravel ;   a 
deep  layer  of  peat  is  found  on  the  hills  wherever  the 
surface  is  level  to  any  extent,  and  frequently  there  are, 
under   this,    considerable    quantities  of  fine    sand  and 
gravel.     About  one-half  is  under  a  regular  rotation  of 
crops  ;   the  other  half  is  permanent  hill  pasture.     There 
is   no  natural  wood  ;  but  about  100  acres  are  in  planta- 
tions,   consisting   principally   of    larch   and    Scotch   fir, 
with  some  elm  and  ash,  which  are,  for  the  most  part,  in 
a  thriving   condition.     A  very   small  quantity  only  of 
wheat  is   produced,  the  soil  and  climate  being  uncon- 
genial to  its  growth  ;   the  system  of  husbandry  is  the 
five  years'  rotation  of  crops,  which  is  usually  applied  to 
light  soils  suited  to  the  growth  of  turnips.     The  sheep 
on  the  hills  are  generally  of  the  old  Scotch  black-faced 
breed,  but  in  the  lower  grounds,  the  Cheviots,  and  some- 
times the  Leicesters,  are  preferred.     The   rateable   an- 
nual value   of  the  parish  is  £6053.     The  rocks  on  the 
hills  are  all  of  the  trap  formation,  and  in  the  bottom  of 
the  river   Leader  are  beds  of  red  sandstone,  which  is 
used    for   building :    some   whinstone    quarries    in   the 
parish  supply  materials  of  the  best  quality,  and  in  great 
abundance,  for  road-making  and  building.      The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Lauder 
and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ;   patron,  Sir  Hugh 
196 


Campbell,  Bart.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £190,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum.  The 
church  is  situated  in  the  hamlet,  of  Channelkirk,  nearly 
in  the  middle  of  the  parish,  but  somewhat  inconve- 
niently, being  too  distant  for  the  bulk  of  the  popula- 
tion, and  seated  on  a  hill  about  S00  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea ;  it  was  built  in  18 17,  in  the  Elizabethan 
style,  and  accommodates  300  persons.  There  is  a 
parochial  school,  the  master  of  which  has  a  salary  of 
£30,  about  £40  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden  ;  there  is 
also  a  good  parochial  library,  established  about  fifty 
years  since. 

CHAPEL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Abbotshall, 
district  of  Kirkcaldy,  county  of  Fife,  2  miles  (N.  W.) 
from  Kirkcaldy;  containing  159  inhabitants.  It  lies 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  parish,  and  nearly  on  the 
borders  of  the  parish  of  Dysart. 

CHAPEL  OF  GARIOCH.— See  Garioch. 

CHAPELHALL,  a  village,  in  the  late  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Holytown,  parish  of  Both  well,  Middle  ward 
of  county  Lanark  ;  containing  1431  inhabitants.  This 
village  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  persons  employed  in  the 
collieries  and  mines  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  in 
the  extensive  iron  and  steel  works  of  the  Monkland 
Company,  which  have  been  long  established  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  United  Associate  Synod  ;  and  schools  for  the  in- 
struction of  children  are  supported  by  the  proprietors 
of  the  several  works. — See  Holytown. 

CHAPELHILL,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Monzie, 
county  of  Perth  ;   containing  77  inhabitants. 

CHAPELTON,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Borgue, 
stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  1  mile  (S.  W.)  from 
Borgue;    containing  31  inhabitants. 

CHAPELTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cambus- 
lang,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  contain- 
ing 367  inhabitants,  almost  exclusively  employed  in 
weaving.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church. 

CHAPELTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Glas- 
ford,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  3|  miles 
(N.  by  E.)  from  Strathaven  ;  containing  60'2  inhabitants. 
This  village,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  occasional 
performance  of  divine  service  here,  previously  to  the 
erection  of  the  present  church,  is  pleasantly  situated, 
and  the  inhabitants  are  generally  employed  in  agricul- 
ture. There  are  three  friendly  societies,  consisting  in 
the  aggregate  of  about  200  members  ;  and  a  temperance 
society  of  forty  members.  Two  endowed  schools  have 
been  established,  both  of  which  are  branches  of  the 
parochial  school,  and  so  situated  as  to  be  easily  accessi- 
ble to  the  children  from  all  parts  of  the  parish  ;  and 
there  is  also  a  sabbath  school,  supported  by  subscrip- 
tion. 

CHAPELTON  OF  BOYSACK,  a  hamlet,  in  the 
parish  of  Inverkeilor,  county  of  Forfar,  5  miles 
(N.  by  W.)  from  Arbroath  ;  containing  52  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  to  the  south  of  the  Lunar  water,  and  on 
the  road  from  Brechin  to  Arbroath.  Here  is  a  school, 
endowed  with  a  small  bequest,  and  of  which  the  master 
has  a  house  and  garden. 

CHARLESTON,  a  village  and  small  sea-port,  in 
the  parish  and  district  of  Dunfermline,  county  of 
Fife,  3  miles  (S.  W.  by  S.)  from  Dunfermline  ;  contain- 
ing 772  inhabitants.     This  village,  which  is  situated  on 


CHER 


CHIR 


the  north  shore  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  was  founded  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  persons  employed  in  the  ex- 
tensive collieries  and  lime-works  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin,  in 
the  immediate  neighbourhood.  It  is  well  built,  and  has 
a  neat  and  pleasing  appearance  ;  the  surrounding  sce- 
nery is  enlivened  by  the  well-planted  demesne  of  Broom- 
hall,  the  seat  of  the  earl,  and  the  inhabitants  are  generally 
in  easy  circumstances.  The  manufacture  of  various 
articles  of  cast-iron  and  brass,  for  which  a  foundry  has 
been  established,  is  carried  on  to  a  moderate  extent ; 
and  there  are  some  extensive  limekilns,  in  which  the 
limestone  obtained  from  the  quarries  is  burnt.  The 
produce  of  the  Elgin  collieries,  and  the  limestone  from 
the  quarries,  are  conveyed  by  railways  from  the  mines, 
to  the  harbour  here,  for  exportation  ;  the  quantity  of 
coal  shipped  annually,  is  estimated  at  120,000  tons  ;  of 
limestone,  15,000  tons,  and  of  shell-lime,  about  400,000 
bushels.  The  harbour  is  spacious,  and  has  been  deep- 
ened and  gi-eatly  improved  within  the  last  few  years, 
and  great  facility  of  communication  has  recently  been 
afforded  by  the  erection  of  a  wooden  pier,  for  the  steam- 
boats plying  in  the  Frith,  which  touch  at  this  place. 
A  school  is  supported  by  the  Earl  of  Elgin. 

CHARLESTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Glam- 
mis,  county  of  Forfar,  1^  mile  (S.)  from  Glammis  ; 
containing  34S  inhabitants.  This  is  a  new  village,  fast 
increasing  in  extent  and  population. 

CHARLESTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of Aboyne 
and  Glentanner,  district  of  Kincardine  O'Neil, 
county  of  Aberdeen,  5  miles  (W.)  from  Kincardine 
O'Neil ;  containing  260  inhabitants.  This  thriving 
place,  formerly  called  Bunty,  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  western  bank  of  the  burn  of  Coull,  near  Aboyne 
Castle,  and  is  a  burgh  of  barony,  of  which  the  Marquess 
of  Huntly  is  superior.  The  tollbooth,  however,  was  de- 
stroyed towards  the  close  of  the  last  century,  and  the 
traces  of  the  pot  and  gallows  are  now  scarcely  visible. 
There  are  an  excellent  inn,  several  good  shops,  and 
some  flour,  barley,  and  malt  mills,  and  numerous  per- 
sons are  employed  in  various  handicraft  trades  ;  a  post- 
office  has  been  established,  and  the  mail-coach  to  and 
from  Aberdeen  passes  through  daily.  A  weekly  market 
is  held,  and  there  are  five  fairs  annually.  The  village 
contains  a  parochial  school,  and  not  far  distant  stands 
the  church. 

CHARLESTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Aber- 
lour,  county  of  Banff,  5  miles  (N.  W.  by  W.)  from 
Dufftown ;  containing  328  inhabitants.  This  village 
was  founded  in  the  year  1812,  by  its  proprietor,  Charles 
Grant,  Esq.,  who  erected  it  into  a  burgh  of  barony,  by 
the  name  of  Charlestown  of  Aberlour  ;  it  is  about  half  a 
mile  in  extent,  comprising  nearly  all  the  holm  lands  of 
the  district,  and  is  neatly  built.  The  inhabitants  are 
chiefly  employed  in  agricultural  pursuits ;  there  is  a 
good  inn,  and  fairs  are  held  on  the  first  Thursday  in 
April,  the  Thursday  before  the  21st  of  May,  and  the 
second  Thursdays  in  July  and  November.  The  female 
school  for  the  parish  is  situated  in  the  village,  and  affords 
instruction  chiefly  in  sewing  and  English  reading. 

CHARLESTOWN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of 
Knockbain,  county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty  ;  contain- 
ing S7  inhabitants. 

CHERRY  BANK,  a  village,  in  the  East  parish  of 
the  city  and  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  157  inhabit- 
ants. 

197 


CHESTERHILL,  with  Sauchenside,  a  village,  in 
the  parish  of  Cranston,  county  of  Edinburgh,  1  mile 
(S.  W.)  from  Cranston  ;   containing  284  inhabitants. 

CHESTERS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  South  dean, 
district  of  Jedburgh,  county  of  Roxburgh,  6  miles 
(S.)  from  Jedburgh;  containing  S2  inhabitants.  The 
village  is  seated  between  the  Rule  and  Jedburgh  waters, 
from  which  it  is  equidistant  ;  and  from  its  central  situ- 
ation, it  contains  the  church.  On  the  adjacent  heights 
are  the  ruins  of  some  strong  fortifications  or  camps  ; 
their  form  is  circular,  and,  in  general,  they  are  quite 
distinct,  and  each  is  apparently  within  view  of  South- 
dean  Law,  which,  according  to  tradition,  was  a  place  of 
observation,  where  fires  were  lighted  on  the  approach  of 
an  enemy. 

CHIRNSIDE,  a  parish  and  burgh  of  barony,  in  the 
county  of  Berwick,  4|  miles  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from  Ayton  ; 
containing  1203  inhabitants.  The  name  of  this  place 
is  interpreted  "  the  Sepulchral  Tumulus  on  the  side  of 
the  hill."  The  parish  is  about  three  miles  in  length, 
and  the  same  in  breadth,  and  contains  upwards  of  5000 
acres ;  the  surface  is  flat,  with  the  exception  of  Chirn- 
side  hill,  in  the  northern  part,  from  which  some  beauti- 
ful prospects  are  obtained.  The  Whiteadder  river  runs 
along  the  southern  boundary  of  the  parish,  and  is  here 
a  fine  expansive  stream,  being  but  a  small  distance  from 
its  junction  with  the  Tweed  near  Berwick  :  close  to  the 
northern  boundary,  flows  the  Eye  water.  There  is  no 
waste  land  ;  the  soil  is  good,  and  in  a  high  state  of  cul- 
tivation. About  370  acres  are  under  plantations,  which 
are  in  a  thriving  state,  especially  those  on  the  banks  of 
the  Whiteadder,  at  Ninewells ;  about  one-half  of  the 
rest  of  the  land  is  in  tillage,  and  the  other  in  grass.  All 
kinds  of  grasses  and  of  grain  are  produced,  of  good 
quality,  but  oats  form  the  most  considerable  crop  ; 
potatoes  and  turnips  are  also  raised,  and  the  latter  are 
very  fine  and  plentiful.  About  2500  sheep  are  usually 
kept,  which  are  the  large  Leieesters,  and  the  cattle  are 
of  the  short-horned  breed  ;  draining  has  been  practised 
to  a  great  extent,  and  large  sums  have  lately  been  ex- 
pended in  embankments  on  the  river  Whiteadder.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £8891.  The  rocks 
consist  of  freestone,  which  is  abundant,  and  of  which 
several  quarries  are  wrought.  The  village  is  in  the 
south- western  part  of  the  parish  ;  it  has  a  fair  on  the 
last  Thursday  in  November,  for  the  sale  of  sackcloth, 
linen-yarn,  and  pottery-ware  ;  and  the  road  from  Dunse 
to  Ayton  runs  through  the  centre  of  it.  The  principal 
mansions  are,  Whitehall,  Ninewells,  and  Mains.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of 
Chirnside  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ;  patron, 
Mitchell  Innes,  Esq.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £247, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £29  per  annum. 
The  church,  which  is  very  ancient,  is  in  tolerable  repair; 
the  western  door  is  Saxon,  and  on  one  of  the  walls, 
evidently  of  later  erection,  is  a  tablet  dated  1572,  with 
the  inscription  Helpe  the  Pur ;  the  edifice  affords  ac- 
commodation for  500  persons.  The  United  Associate 
Synod  have  a  place  of  worship,  as  have  also  the  Re- 
formed Presbyterian  Congregation.  There  is  a  paro- 
chial school,  in  which  are  taught  the  classics,  mathe- 
matics, and  French,  with  all  the  usual  branches  of 
education  ;  the  master's  salary  is  £34,  with  about  £30 
fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  Until  very  recently  there 
existed   a    circulating    library,   established    forty    years 


C  L  A  C 


C  L  A  C 


ago.  The  celebrated  historian,  David  Hume,  was  brought 
up,  from  his  infancy,  at  Niuewells  House  ;  and  the  Rev. 
Henry  Erskine,  father  of  the  Rev.  Ebenezer  and  Ralph 
Erskine,  leaders  of  the  Secession,  was  the  first  minister 
here  after  the  Revolution  :  a  handsome  monument  has 
lately  been  erected  to  his  memory,  in  the  churchyard. 

CHRYSTON,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Cadder,  Lower  ward  of  county  Lanark  ;  in- 
cluding the  villages  of  Mollensburn,  Moodiesburn,  and 
Muirhead,  and  the  hamlet  of  Auchinloch,  and  contain- 
ing 26/0  inhabitants,  of  which  number  555  are  in  the 
village  of  Chryston,  7  miles  (E.  by  N.)  from  Glasgow. 
The  district  is  formed  of  the  eastern  half  of  the  parish  of 
Cadder,  and  comprises  about  eleven  square  miles,  its 
greatest  length  being  four  and  a  half,  and  its  greatest 
breadth  three  and  a  quarter  miles.  The  village  is  hand- 
somely built  and  pleasantly  situated,  and  but  for  the 
want  of  water,  which  is  obtained  only  from  the  well  of 
Bedlay,  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant,  and  difficult 
of  access,  might  become  a  more  populous  and  flourish- 
ing place.  A  fair,  chiefly  for  the  sale  of  fat  cattle,  was 
formerly  held  here,  at  Martinmas  ;  but  it  has  been  for 
some  time  discontinued.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
under  the  presbytery  of  Glasgow  and  synod  of  Glasgow 
and  Ayr.  The  church  is  a  handsome  structure,  built 
by  subscription  of  the  inhabitants ;  the  stone  for  its 
erection  was  quarried  by  the  labourers,  and  hauled, 
together  with  the  lime  and  other  materials,  by  the 
farmers  without  any  charge  ;  it  will  accommodate  564 
persons,  and  is  well  attended.  The  stipend  of  the 
minister  is  £90,  derived  from  seat-rents,  with  a  manse 
and  garden,  valued  at  £10  per  annum.  A  cemetery  has 
been  purchased,  and  is  now  appropriated  to  interment. 
One  of  the  parochial  schools  is  situated  here  ;  and  a 
library  has  been  recently  established.  The  ancient  tomb 
of  the  family  of  Gray,  former  proprietors,  is  here  crossed 
by  the  line  of  road  leading  to  Cumbernauld. 

CLACHAN,  a  village,  chiefly  in  the  parish  of  Camp- 
sie,  but  partly  in  that  of  Fintry,  county  of  Stirling, 
2  miles  (W.)  from  Lennoxtown  ;  containing  191  inha- 
bitants. This  village,  called  the  Clachan  of  Campsie, 
is  romautically  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  copse  woods 
and  secluded  valleys,  which  are  much  resorted  to  in 
summer.  The  hills  above  it  bend  in  the  form  of  an 
amphitheatre,  and  numerous  streams  pour  down  the 
winding  glens  into  the  Glassert,  a  rivulet  which  rises  in 
Campsie  fells,  and  falls  into  the  Kelvin  above  Kirkin- 
tilloch. A  bleachfield,  for  the  preparation  of  various 
kinds  of  muslin,  was  established  here  in  IS  19.  The 
village  formerly  contained  the  parochial  church. 

CLACHAN,  ST.  JOHN'S,  a  village,  in  the  parish 
of  Dalry,  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  15  miles 
(N.  N.  W.)  from  Castle-Douglas ;  containing  5/4  in- 
habitants. This  village,  which  is  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  river  Ken,  was  built  upon  lands  leased  for  the 
purpose,  by  the  Earl  of  Galloway.  The  houses,  to  each 
of  which  is  attached  a  portion  of  land  for  a  garden,  are 
neatly  built ;  and  the  village,  which  is  spacious,  has  a 
pleasingly  rural  aspect.  A  branch  post-office,  under 
the  office  of  Castle- Douglas,  has  been  established;  and 
a  pleasure-fair,  called  the  Clachan  Race,  is  held  annu- 
ally. Coaches  pass  through  daily,  between  Ayr  and 
Kirkcudbright.  An  ancient  stone  named  St.  John's 
Chair,  formerly  in  the  old  church,  dedicated  to  St.  John, 
is  still  preserved  here;  and  also  a  stone  with  the  in- 
19S 


scription  "  P.  G.  VII.,"  supposed  to  have  been  the  foun- 
dation stone  of  a  chapel  erected  in  the  time  of  Pope 
Gregory  VII. 

CLACHNAHARRY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  and 
county  of  Inverness,  1  mile  (W.)  from  Inverness  ;  con- 
taining 260  inhabitants.  This  place,  which  is  situated 
on  the  shore  of  Beauly  loch,  a  continuation  of  the 
Moray  Frith,  takes  its  name  from  a  rocky  eminence 
now  called  the  Watchman's  Stone,  on  which  sentinels 
were  anciently  placed,  to  give  intelligence  of  the  ap- 
proach of  any  hostile  forces  of  the  neighbouring  clans  ; 
and  in  commemoration  of  one  of  the  numerous  conflicts 
that  occurred  here,  a  lofty  column  was  erected  on  the 
spot,  by  the  late  H.  R.  Duff,  Esq.,  of  Muirtown.  The 
village  forms  a  suburb  to  the  burgh  of  Inverness,  and 
is  much  resorted  to  for  the  wildly  romantic  scenery, 
and  the  numerous  interesting  features,  in  its  immediate 
vicinity.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  employed  in  fish- 
ing, and  in  the  building  of  boats,  for  which  its  situation 
near  the  union  of  the  Caledonian  canal  with  the  Frith, 
renders  it  peculiarly  appropriate ;  a  small  pier  has 
been  constructed  near  the  sea-lock  of  the  canal,  and 
contributes  greatly  to  the  benefit  of  the  place  and  neigh- 
bourhood. 

CLACKMANNAN,  the  county  town,  and  a  parish, 
in  the  county  of  Clackmannan,  2  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from 
Alloa ;  containing,  with  the  villages  of  Nevvtonshaw  and 
Kennet,  5145  inhabitants,  of  whom  1077  are  in  the 
town.  This  place,  of  which  the  name,  in  the  Gaelic 
language,  signifies  the  church  town  of  Annan,  anciently 
belonged  to  the  Annandale  family,  of  whom  the  last 
heiress,  Agnes,  conveyed  it,  by  marriage,  to  the  ances- 
tor of  the  royal  family  of  Bruce,  on  his  first  settling 
in  Scotland,  in  the  12th  century.  The  tower  of  Clack- 
mannan is  said  to  have  been  built  by  King  Robert 
Bruce,  on  the  site  of  the  baronial  residence  of  the 
family,  soon  after  his  accession  to  the  throne ;  and  it 
appears  to  have  been  the  residence  of  several  of  his 
successors,  kings  of  Scotland,  till  1330,  when  it  was 
granted  by  David  II.,  to  his  kinsman,  Robert  Bruce, 
first  lord  of  Clackmannan.  The  lordship  continued  in 
possession  of  the  descendants  of  that  family,  till  the 
male  line  became  extinct  by  the  death  of  Henry  Bruce, 
the  last  lord,  in  1772,  after  which,  on  the  decease  of 
his  lady,  the  lands  became  divided  among  various 
proprietors. 

The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  an  eminence 
rising  gently  from  the  Forth,  to  a  height  of  190  feet, 
and  chiefly  consists  of  one  street.  In  the  centre  are 
the  remains  of  the  ancient  tollbooth,  of  which  only  the 
steeple  is  standing  ;  the  gaol  and  court-house,  formerly 
attached,  are  now  in  ruins,  and  a  county-hall  has 
recently  been  erected  to  the  north  of  the  town,  though 
the  courts  are  invariably  held,  and  the  public  busi- 
ness transacted,  at  Alloa.  The  houses  are  irregularly 
built,  and  of  very  mean  appearance ;  in  addition  to 
those  in  the  principal  street,  are  several  rows  of  cot- 
tages, mostly  inhabited  by  persons  employed  in  the 
collieries.  There  are  two  public  subscription  libraries. 
Several  of  the  inhabitants  are  engaged  in  various  handi- 
craft trades,  and  there  are  numerous  shops  for  different 
wares ;  but,  from  the  proximity  of  Alloa,  very  little 
business  is  transacted.  Two  markets  are  held  yearly, 
and  there  is  a  post-office  subordinate  to  that,  of  Alloa ; 
facility  of  intercourse   is  afforded  by  good  roads,  and 


C  L  A  C 


C  L  A  C 


by  the  steamers  that  ply  between  Grant-on  Pier  and 
Stirling,  which  call  at  Alloa  and  at  Kincardine,  in  the 
adjoining  parish  of  Tulliallan,  and  provide  for  the  inha- 
bitants an  easy  and  very  cheap  means  of  communication 
with  Edinburgh  and  the  intermediate  places. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  south-west  by  the 
river  Forth,  for  about  two  miles  and  a  half,  and  thence 
stretches  towards  the  river  Devon,  by  which  it  is 
bounded  on  the  north.  It  is  nearly  six  miles  in  length, 
and  comprises  an  area  of  about  8000  acres,  of  which 
6000  are  arable  and  pasture,  I'OO  woodland  and  plan- 
tations, and  the  remainder  waste.  The  surface,  for 
more  than  a  mile  from  the  bank  of  the  Forth,  is  level 
carse  land,  beyond  which  it  rises  in  gentle  undulations 
to  the  vale  through  which  the  Black  Devon  flows, 
and  thence,  more  precipitously,  to  the  vale  of  the 
Devon.  The  Black  Devon  has  its  source  in  the  hills 
of  the  parish  of  Saline,  on  the  east,  and,  after  sweeping 
roinid  the  western  base  of  the  hill  on  which  the  tower 
of  Clackmannan  is  situated,  flows  into  the  Forth  about 
two  miles  from  the  town.  The  Forth  is  about  one 
mile  in  breadth  opposite  the  parish,  having  been  consi- 
derably contracted  by  an  embankment,  by  which  a 
considerable  portion  of  land  has  been  gained  from  it. 
The  soil,  though  various,  and  resting  chiefly  on  a  cold 
tilly  subsoil,  is  not  unfertile  ;  the  chief  crops  are,  oats, 
barley,  wheat,  turnips,  and  potatoes.  The  system  of 
husbandry  has  been  improved  under  the  auspices  of 
the  Clackmannanshire  Agricultural  Society  ;  the  lands 
have  been  well  drained  and  partly  inclosed,  and  the 
farm-houses  and  offices  are  generally  substantial  and 
commodious.  The  cattle  are  mostly  of  a  mixed  de- 
scription, but  there  are  also  several  of  the  Teeswater, 
and  many  of  the  Ayrshire  breed.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £13,704.  The  plantations  are 
principally  oak,  larch,  and  Scotch  and  spruce  firs;  they 
are  well  managed,  and  in  a  thriving  state. 

The  substrata  are  ironstone  and  coal,  which  are  very 
abundant,  and  sandstone,  of  which  there  are  several 
quarries.  The  coal  field  contains  eleven  workable 
seams,  varying  from  two  to  nine  feet  in  thickness,  and 
of  which  the  lowest  is  found  at  a  depth  of  1 10  fathoms; 
the  most  important,  collieries  are  those  of  the  Clack- 
mannan, the  Devon,  and  the  Alloa  Companies.  The 
seams  principally  wrought,  are,  the  upper  and  under  five 
feet,  the  nine  feet,  and  the  three-and-a-half  feet  seams, 
which  are  all  of  the  best  quality,  and  the  upper  two  feet 
seam,  which  is  found  only  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
parish.  The  upper  five,  and  nine,  and  two  feet  seams  are 
wrought  by  the  Devon  Company,  chiefly  for  their  smelt- 
ing-works  ;  and  the  others,  by  the  Clackmannan  and 
Alloa  Companies.  The  aggregate  quantity  raised  daily 
is  about  500  tons,  of  which  200  are  consumed  in  the 
parish,  and  the  remainder  conveyed  by  railroads  from 
the  mines,  to  be  shipped  to  various  parts  of  Scotland, 
for  which  facility  is  afforded  by  the  harbour  of  Ken- 
netpans,  and  the  construction  of  extensively-projecting 
piers,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Black  Devon.  The  collieries 
give  employment  to  about  700  men.  The  Devon  Com- 
pany's iron-works  in  the  parish,  are  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  Devon,  and  employ  three  furnaces, 
for  the  making  of  pig-iron,  of  which  about  6000  tons 
are  annually  produced  ;  and  connected  with  the  works, 
is  an  extensive  foundry,  in  which  large  quantities  of 
east-iron  goods  are  made.  At  Kilbagie  is  a  distillery, 
199 


which  has  been  long  established,  but  at  present  no 
operations  are  carried  on ;  the  buildings  occupy  an 
area  of  nearly  seven  acres,  inclosed  with  a  high  wall, 
and  for  their  supply  with  grain,  S50  acres  of  land 
were  formerly  expressly  cultivated.  The  works  were 
carried  on  upon  a  very  extensive  scale,  and  700  cattle 
were  fed  upon  the  premises  ;  the  whisky  was  chiefly  for 
the  London  market.  There  is  also  a  distillery  near 
the  town,  upon  a  smaller  scale,  chiefly  for  the  home 
market;  a  large  brick  and  tile  work  has  been  esta- 
blished, and  there  are  three  saw-mills,  of  which  the 
machinery  is  propelled  by  water. 

The  principal  mansions  in  the  parish  are,  Schaw 
Park,  a  spacious  ancient  house,  containing  many  hand- 
some apartments,  and  finely  situated  in  grounds  taste- 
fully embellished ;  Kennet  House,  situated  on  rising 
grounds  overlooking  the  Forth  ;  Aberdona,  in  a  beau- 
tifully secluded  spot;  Brucefield ;  Kennetpans,  com- 
manding a  fine  view  of  the  Forth  ;  and  Kilbagie,  plea- 
santly situated  about  a  mile  from  the  river.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  presbytery  of  Stirling  and  synod  of  Perth  and 
Stirling.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £284,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £16  per  annum  ;  patron,  the 
Earl  of  Zetland.  The  church,  erected  about  the  year 
1S20,  is  a  handsome  structure,  with  a  tower  of  lofty 
elevation,  and  contains  1300  sittings  ;  and  an  addi- 
tional church  has  been  recently  erected,  in  the  north- 
west district  of  the  parish,  which  contains  620  sittings. 
There  is  a  place  of  worship  in  the  town  for  members 
of  the  Relief  Synod.  The  parochial  school  is  well 
attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  in  addition  to  the  fees.  The  ancient  tower 
of  Clackmannan  is  still  tolerably  entire  ;  it  is  eighty  feet 
high,  and  contains  several  apartments,  and  from  the 
summit,  to  which  is  an  ascent  by  a  spiral  staircase,  a 
truly  interesting  prospect  is  obtained.  On  the  banks 
of  the  Devon  are  the  remains  of  Sauchie  Tower,  for- 
merly the  seat  of  the  Cathcart  family,  and  now  the 
property  of  the  Earl  of  Mansfield ;  this  tower  is  in 
a  still  better  state  of  preservation  than  that  of  Clack- 
mannan. 

CLACKMANNANSHIRE,  a  small  county  in  the 
interior  of  Scotland,  bounded  on  the  north  and  north- 
west by  Perthshire,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the 
Ochil  Hills  ;  on  the  east,  by  the  county  of  Fife  ;  and 
on  the  south  and  south-west,  by  the  river  Forth.  It 
lies  between  56°  5'  and  56°  14'  (N.  Lat.),  and  3°  33'  and 
3°  56'  (W.  Long.),  and  is  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and 
eight  miles  in  extreme  breadth  ;  comprising  an  area  of 
fifty-two  square  miles,  or  33,280  acres;  3517  dwelling- 
houses,  of  which  3406  are  inhabited  ;  and  a  population 
of  19,155,  of  whom  9386  are  males,  and  9769  females. 
This  county  is  in  the  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling,  and 
comprises  four  entire  parishes,  with  part  of  another. 
For  civil  purposes,  it  is  associated  with  the  county  of 
Kinross,  under  one  sheriff,  who  appoints  a  sheriff-sub- 
stitute for  each  county  ;  and  it  contains  the  towns  of 
Clackmannan  and  Alloa,  in  the  latter  of  which  the 
sheriff-substitute  resides,  and  holds  his  courts,  though 
the  quarter-sessions  are  occasionally  held  at  Clack- 
mannan. Under  the  act  of  the  2nd  of  William  IV.,  the 
county,  jointly  with  that  of  Kinross,  returns  a  member 
to  the  imperial  parliament. 

The  surface,  for  a  considerable  breadth  from  the 


CLAR 


CLAT 


shore  of  the  Forth,  is  level,  but,  towards  the  north,  rises 
rapidly,  forming  part  of  the  Ochil  range  of  hills,  of 
which  Bencleugh,  the  highest,  has  an  elevation  of  2000 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  principal  rivers  are,  the  Forth, 
the  Devon,  which,  after  a  westerly  course  through  a  beau- 
tifully romantic  district,  falls  into  the  Forth  to  the  west  of 
Alloa;  and  the  Black  Devon,  which,  after  traversing  the 
county  in  direction  nearly  parallel  with  the  Devon,  flows 
into  the  Forth  not  far  from  Clackmannan.  There  are 
some  small  lakes,  and  an  artificial  sheet  of  water  called 
Gartmorn  Dam,  which  is  160  acres  in  extent.  About 
two  thirds  of  the  land  are  arable,  and  the  remainder 
hill  pasture ;  the  soil,  in  the  lower  districts,  is  exceed- 
ingly rich  and  fertile,  producing  crops  of  grain  of  every 
kind,  and  the  higher  lands  afford  good  pasturage  for 
sheep  and  cattle.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  in  a 
highly  improved  state.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
county  is  £51, 522.  The  chief  minerals  are  ironstone 
and  coal,  both  of  which  are  extensively  wrought ;  and 
of  the  former,  more  than  200,000  tons  are  annually 
raised  :  silver-ore  has  been  also  found  in  some  places. 
The  most  important  manufactures  are  those  of  tobacco 
and  snuff,  flint  and  crown  glass,  steam-engines,  and 
machinery  of  all  'kinds,  and  the  woollen  manufacture, 
which  has  been  recently  much  extended  ;  there  are  also 
extensive  potteries,  and  brick  and  tile  works,  various 
distilleries,  breweries,  and  tanneries.  Ship-building,  and 
the  making  of  ropes  and  sails,  are  likewise  carried  on. 
There  are  several  remains  of  antiquity,  among  which 
are  the  towers  of  Alloa  and  Clackmannan,  of  which  the 
latter  was  the  residence  of  Robert  Bruce  ;  Roman  coins 
have  been  found,  and  some  sepulchral  urns,  and  various 
other  relics. 

CLAIRTOWN,  ST.,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Dysart,  county  of  Fife,  \  a  mile  (E.)  from  Kirkcaldy  ; 
containing  1511  inhabitants.  This  village  immediately 
adjoins  that  of  Pathhead,  with  which  it  has  become  in- 
corporated, and  of  which  it  forms  the  more  modern 
portion,  being  separated  only  by  the  great  road  to  Dun- 
dee. It  is  built  upon  the  estate  of  Sinclair,  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Earl  of  Rosslyn,  extending  in  one  continued 
line  for  about  a  mile  northwards.  The  inhabitants  are 
chiefly  weavers. — See  Pathhead. 

CLAREBRAND,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Cross- 
michael,  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright;  containing 
54  inhabitants. 

CLARENCEFIELD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Ruth  - 
well,  county  of  Dumfries,  &\  miles  (W.  by  N.)  from 
Annan  ;  containing  86  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  near 
the  road  between  Dumfries  and  Cummertrees,  and  a 
short  distance  west  of  Ruthwell  church.  On  each  side 
of  the  village  is  a  stream  which  discharges  itself,  at  the 
distance  of  about  a  mile,  into  the  Solway  Frith. 

CLARKSTON,  late  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  including 
the  villages  of  Arden  and  Ballochney,  in  the  Middle 
ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  1^  mile  (E.)  from  Air- 
drie ;  containing  4526  inhabitants.  The  parish  was 
formed  of  the  south-eastern  portion  of  that  of  New 
Monkland  and  part  of  that  of  Shotts;  it  was  seven  miles 
in  length,  and  three  in  breadth,  lying  chiefly  along  the 
south  side  of  a  pretty  high  dorse,  which  runs  from  west 
to  east.  The  soil  is  in  general  a  cold  clay  ;  in  some 
parts  is  deep  moss,  and  on  the  lands  of  Auchiagray  and 
Brownicside  are  considerable  plantations.  Agricultural 
improvement  in  this  quarter  has  been  much  neglected, 
200 


owing,  in  some  measure,  to  the  distance  from  which 
lime  can  be  obtained,  but  chiefly  to  the  attention  of  the 
proprietors  of  land  having  been  turned  to  successful 
searches  after  minerals,  by  which  large  fortunes  have 
been  realised.  Numerous  iron-mines  are  now  in  opera- 
tion, and. the  whole  district  abounds  in  coal.  Contiguous 
to  the  village,  are  thej  Clarkston  cotton,  and  Moffat 
paper,  mills,  and  at  the  village  of  Gartness  is  an  iron- 
rolling  mill :  the  ores  are  forwarded  to  another  parish 
to  be  manufactured.  The  Ballochney  and  Whiterigg 
railway  runs  along  the  north  side  of  the  district,  which 
is  also  intersected  by  the  middle  road  from  Glasgow  to 
Edinburgh.  Besides  the  villages  of  Clarkston,  Arden, 
and  Ballochney,  are  five  villages  of  considerabje  size, 
and  many  of  smaller  extent  and  more  recent  erection,  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  miners  and  other  work-people, 
of  whom  the  increase  of  late  years  has  been  very  great ; 
and  in  various  places  are  handsome  seats  and  modern 
residences.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  pres- 
bytery of  Hamilton  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr. 
The  church,  which  is  of  plain  rubble  workmanship,  was 
erected  in  1836-7,  ^t.  a  cost  of  about  £1480  ;  it  contains 
730  sittings,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  neat  burial-ground. 
The  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £70,  and  the  patronage 
is  vested  in  the  male  communicants.  There  are  four 
schools,  built  by  masters  of  public  works.  In  the  east 
corner  of  the  district,  is  the  great  reservoir  for  supply- 
ing the  Clyde  and  Forth  canal. 

CLARKSTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cathcart, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  2  miles  (S.  by 
W.)  from  Cathcart ;  containing  180  inhabitants.  It  lies 
on  the  south-western  confines  of  the  parish,  and  on  the 
road  from  Eaglesham  to  Cathcart.  In  the  village  is  a 
good  school,  chiefly  frequented,  from  its  contiguity  to 
Busby,  in  the  parish  of  Mearns,  by  the  children  of  that 
place  ;  the  master  has  an  endowment  of  £10  per  an- 
num, from  the  proprietors  of  the  public  works  at 
Busby. 

CLASHNESSIE,  a  village,  in  the  late  quoad  sacra  pa- 
rish of  Stoer,  parish  of  Assynt,  county  Sutherland, 
13  miles  (N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Assynt;  containing  19-1 
inhabitants.  This  place  is  seated  at  the  head  of  a  small 
bay  bearing  its  own  name,  and  on  a  promontory  in 
which  are  several  lakes,  and  numerous  indentations 
round  the  coast.  On  the  north-east  are  Oldernay  bay 
and  island. 

CLATHY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Findogask, 
county  of  Perth,  4f  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Auchter- 
arder ;  containing  120  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on 
the  road  from  Dunning  to  Balgowan,  and  is  the  only 
village  in  the  parish. 

CLATT,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Alford,  county 
of  Aberdeen,  10  miles  (S.)  from  Huntly  ;  containing 
524  inhabitants.  The  Gaelic  word  Cleith,  or  Cleit, 
signifying  "  concealed,"  appears  to  have  given  the  name 
to  this  place,  in  consequence  of  its  secluded  situation,  it 
being  hidden  from  view  on  all  sides.  The  parish  is  in 
the  western  extremity  of  the  Garioch  district,  and  mea- 
sures about  four  miles  in  length,  and  from  two  to  three 
in  breadth,  comprising  5130  acres,  of  which  2800  are 
under  cultivation,  250  pasture,  200  wood,  and  the  re- 
mainder waste  and  undivided  common.  It  consists  of 
an  uninterrupted  plain,  with  the  exception  of  a  portion 
of  hilly  ground  on  the  north-west,  and  some  rising 
grounds  on  the  declivity  of  the  Suie  and  Coreen  hills, 


C  L  A  T 


C  L  E  I 


which  bound  it  on  the  south,  and  belong  to  a  mountain 
range  extending  from  east  to  west,  for  more  than  twenty 
miles.  The  Water  of  Bogie  separates  the  parish,  on  the 
north,  from  that  of  Rhynie  ;  and  it  is  also  indebted, 
for  a  considerable  relief  to  its  generally  uninteresting 
aspect,  to  the  meandering  course  of  the  Gady-  stream, 
which,  receiving  numerous  mountain  rivulets,  turns 
twelve  threshing-mills  and  a  meal-mill,  within  the  dis- 
tance of  two  miles,  and,  after  traversing  a  well-cultivated 
country,  falls  into  the  Urie.  The  land  which  has  been 
longest  in  cultivation  consists  of  a  rich,  deep,  loamy 
soil,  lying  on  a  bed  of  sand  or  rock  ;  and  the  basis. of 
most  of  the  remaining  portion  of  the  best  land  is  clay, 
appearing  under  various  modifications,  according  to  the 
manures  which  have  been  applied.  The  other  parts 
comprise  alluvial  matter,  with  sand  and  clay,  especially 
on  the  lands  recovered  by  draining ;  light  earth  on 
sand  or  rock,  in  the  higher  grounds  ;  and  heath,  moor, 
and  peat-moss.  Agriculture  is  carried  on  with  all  the 
modern  improvements,  and  the  quality  of  the  soil  gene- 
rally is  favourable  to  the  production  of  rich  and  heavy 
crops  ;  but  a  serious  obstacle  is  presented  by  the  defi- 
ciency of  shelter,  the  parish  having  an  elevation  of  600 
feet,  and  being  in  the  vicinity  of  a  mountain  1300  feet 
high.  Great  and  successful  efforts,  however,  have  been 
made  to  advance  husbandry  to  a  high  state  of  excellence, 
and  within  the  last  twenty  years  more  than  300  acres 
of  moss  and  moor  have  been  reclaimed  by  extensive 
drainage ;  larch  and  Scotch  fir  have  recently  been 
planted  on  the  hills  along  the  southern  boundary,  and 
there  are  some  on  the  lower  grounds  which  present  an 
agreeable  appearance.  The  breed  of  cattle  has  been 
greatly  improved,  and  is  a  cross  between  the  native  and 
the  short-horned.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £'2940.  Granite,  whinstone,  serpentine,  and 
clay-slate,  are  the  principal  rocks,  and,  in  many  parts, 
are  so  near  the  surface  as  to  render  the  expense  of 
quarrying  unnecessary.  There  is,  however,  a  mine  of 
rock  composed  of  hornblende,  quartz,  and  felspar  ;  and 
near  the  mansion-house  of  Knockespoch,  the  residence 
of  the  principal  heritor,  a  species  of  variegated  marble 
has  been  discovered,  but  too  soft  and  splintry  for  use. 

The  village  of  Clatt,  beautifully  ornamented  with 
many  old  ash  and  plane  trees,  is  a  decayed  burgh  of 
barony,  containing  only  a  few  houses.  It  received  its 
erection  from  James  IV.,  in  1501,  with  power  to  appoint 
bailies  and  other  officers,  and  to  hold  fairs  every  year, 
and  a  weekly  market,  which  latter  has  long  since  fallen 
into  disuse,  though  some  of  the  inhabitants  remember 
the  ancient  cross.  There  are  still  fairs  held  at  Whitsun- 
tide and  Martinmas,  the  former  for  the  sale  of  sheep 
and  black-cattle,  and  the  hiring  of  servants,  and  the 
latter  for  grain,  and  as  a  feeing-market.  The  parish  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Alford  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and 
in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown  ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £15S.  11.  4.,  of  which  about  a  seventh  partis  received 
from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued 
at  £9  per  annum.  The  church,  which  is  a  very  ancient 
edifice,  was  thoroughly  repaired  and  re-seated  in  1S28, 
and  contains  sittings  for  290  persons.  The  parochial 
school  affords  instruction  in  Latin,  book-keeping,  ma- 
thematics, and  all  the  usual  branches  ;  the  master  has 
a  salary  of  £25.  13.  4.,  with  a  house,  an  allowance  from 
Dick's  bequest,  and  £10  fees.  This  parish  was  the 
scene  of  a  fray,  in  1572,  between  the  rival  clans  of 
Vol.  I. — 201 


Forbes  and  Gordon,  in  which  the  latter  slew  Arthur 
Forbes,  son  of  Lord  Forbes,  and  commonly  called  Black 
Arthur  from  his  dark  complexion,  and  carried  the  pur- 
suit to  the  gates  of  Castle-Forbes,  now  Druminnor,  the 
family  seat  of  the  clan  Forbes.  Near  the  village  is  an 
eminence  called  "  Gallows  Knoll,"  the  ancient  place  of 
execution. 

CLAYBARNS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Newton, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  £  of  a  mile  (E.  by  S.)  from 
Newton;  containing  1S7  inhabitants.  It  lies  east  of 
the  high  road  from  Dalkeith  to  Edinburgh. 

CLAYHOUSE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Borth-. 
wick,  county  of  Edinburgh,  2  miles  (E.  by  N.)  from 
Carrington  ;  containing  84  inhabitants.  It  is  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  parish,  a  short  distance  east  of  the 
high  road  from  Middleton  to  Cockpen,  and  derives  its 
name  from  an  ancient  inn,  built  of  clay,  which  stood  by 
the  way-side,  and  of  which  a  part  still  remains,  though 
materially  altered.  The  village  borders  on  a  detached 
portion  of  Temple  parish,  and  several  cottages  have 
lately  been  erected  in  the  neighbourhood. 

CLAYSLAP,  a  village,  in  the  Barony  parish,  and 
within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  city  of  Glasgow,  in  the 
county  of  Lanark.  The  inhabitants'  are  chiefly  em- 
ployed in  the  several  works  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

CLEISH,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Kinross,  3  miles 
(S.  S.  W.)  from  Kinross  ;  containing,  with  the  villages 
of  Kelty  and  Maryburgh,  6S1  inhabitants.  This  place, 
of  which  the  name  is  of  uncertain  derivation,  is  distin- 
guished by  its  having  formed  part  of  the  route  taken  by 
Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  on  her  flight  from  the  castle  of 
Lochleven,  which  circumstance  is  commemorated  by 
the  insertion  of  a  stone  in  a  bridge  at  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish,  recording  that  event,  and  marking 
out  the  road.  The  parish  is  about  six  miles  and  a  half 
in  length,  and  one  and  a  half  in  average  breadth.  The 
surface  is  diversified  with  hills,  which  form  a  continuous 
range  between  this  parish  and  Dunfermline,  and  of 
which  the  highest  is  Dumglow,  rising  1215  feet  above 
the  sea ;  the  summit  is  flat,  commanding  an  extensive 
view  over  the  surrounding  country,  from  almost  every 
part  of  which  it  is  a  conspicuous  object.  The  next  in 
height  are  the  hills  called  the  Ingans,  which  are  all 
more  than  1000  feet  in  elevation.  The  chief  stream  is  the 
Gairney,  which,  after  forming  the  boundary  of  the  parish 
for  nearly  five  miles,  falls  into  Loch  Leven  ;  it  abounds 
with  trout  of  a  small  size,  and  there  are  some  smaller 
streams  issuing  from  the  lakes,  and  numerous  springs 
of  excellent  water,  affording  an  abundant  supply.  Of 
the  several  lakes,  Loch  Glow  is  two  miles  and  a  half 
in  circumference,  and  the  others  of  very  inferior  extent ; 
the  fish  found  in  them  are,  pike,  perch,  eels,  and  a  few 
trout.  The  scenery  has  been  much  improved  by  recent 
plantations,  and  there  are  some  fine  specimens  of  stately 
timber,  some  of  which  are  of  extraordinary  growth  ;  the 
slopes  of  several  of  the  hills,  and  the  summits  of  others, 
are  finely  planted.  Blair-Adam,  the  seat  of  Sir  Charles 
Adam,  is  a  handsome  residence,  pleasantly  situated. 

The  soil  is  much  varied  j  in  the  lower  grounds, 
clayey,  intermixed  with  a  little  gravel ;  in  other  parts, 
of  a  lighter  quality  ;  with  some  portions  of  deep  moss, 
which,  when  brought  into  cultivation,  is  extremely  rich. 
The  chief  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  and 
turnips,  with  various  grasses,  which  grow  luxuriantly  in 
many  parts  ;   and  the  hills  afford  good  pasture  for  sheep 

-      2D 


CLO  S 


CL  O  S 


and  cattle.  Very  important  improvements  have  been 
made,  by  which  a  large  extent  of  unprofitable  land  has 
been  brought  into  cultivation  ;  draining  has  been  car- 
ried on  with  great  spirit,  and  the  system  of  husbandry 
is  in  a  very  forward  state.  Considerable  attention  is  paid 
to  the  rearing  of  stock  ;  the  sheep  pastured  on  the  hills 
are  generally  of  the  black-faced  breed,  and  those  on  the 
lower  lands,  of  the  Leicestershire  breed ;  the  cattle  are 
the  Kinross-shire,  Angus,  and  Fifeshire.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5535.  The  principal  sub- 
strata are,  whinstone,  greywacke,  and  sandstone,  of 
which  the  hills  are  mostly  composed;  limestone  is 
quarried,  and  coal  is  found  here  in  seams  of  upwards  of 
thirty  feet  in  thickness.  Whinstone  is  wrought  for 
mending  the  roads,  and  there  are  extensive  quarries 
of  freestone  ;  from  one  of  the  quarries,  about  14,000 
cubic  feet  are  raised  annually.  At  Blair-Adam,  is  a 
post-office,  a  branch  of  that  of  Kinross  ;  and  facility  of 
communication  with  the  neighbouring  towns  is  main- 
tained by  good  roads,  of  which  the  turnpike-roads  from 
Queensferry  and  from  Dunfermline  to  Kinross  pass 
through  the  parish.  Cleish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dun- 
fermline and  synod  of  Fife,  and  patronage  of  Harry 
Young,  Esq. ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £156.  15.  4.,  of 
which  about  a  half  is  paid  from  the  exchequer,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £14  per  annum.  The 
old  church,  erected  in  1744,  was  accidentally  destroyed 
by  fire  in  1832,  and  the  present  church,  erected  in  its 
place,  is  a  handsome  edifice,  adapted  for  a  congregation 
of  500  persons.  The  parochial  school  is  well  attended  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £26  fees,  and  a 
house  and  garden. 

CLETT  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Assynt,  county  of 
Sutherland.  It  is  situated  on  the  western  coast  of 
the  county,  and  is  a  high  rock,  considerably  above  the 
greatest  tide  and  surge,  and,  except  in  one  or  two  places, 
is  of  difficult  access.  Its  form  is  somewhat  round,  and 
on  its  summit  is  excellent  herbage. 

CLEUGHBRAE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Mouse- 
wald,  county  of  Dumfries,  6  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from 
Dumfries  ;  containing  53  inhabitants.  It  is  on  the  high 
road  from  Annan  to  Dumfries. 

CLIFTON,  a  village,  in  the  late  quoad  sacra  parish 
of  Strathfillan,  parish  of  Killin,  county  of  Perth  ; 
containing  159  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  the  north-western 
portion  of  the  parish,  near  Tyndrum,  and  is  a  small 
place,  formerly  occupied  by  miners  employed  in  working 
a  lead-mine  in  the  vicinity. 

CLIMPY,  a  small  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Carn- 
wath,  county  of  Lanark,  7  miles  (N.)  from  Carn- 
wath.  This  place,  situated  in  a  coal  district,  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  parish,  is  inhabited  by  persons 
employed  in  the  collieries.  There  was  formerly  a  chapel, 
which  is  fallen  into  decay,  and  the  cottages  are  in  a 
ruinous  state. 

CLOSEBURN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dum- 
fries ;  containing  1530  inhabitants,  of  whom  123  are 
in  the  village,  2§  miles  (S.  S.  E.)  from  Thornhill.  This 
place,  anciently  called  Kill-Osburn,  from  Cella  Osburni, 
was  formerly  remarkable  for  its  very  ancient  castle, 
which  belonged,  for  many  centuries,  together  with  the 
parish,  to  the  family  of  Kirkpatrick.  By  a  charter  in 
the  possession  of  a  branch  of  this  family,  it  appears 
that  Ivon  de  Kirkpatrick  obtained  a  confirmation  of  the 
lands,  granted  to  his  ancestors  by  Alexander  II.,  in 
202 


1232.  The  parish  of  Closeburn  was  afterwards  annexed 
to  the  abbey  of  Holyrood  House,  and  the  parish  of  Dal- 
garno,  now  included  within  the  limits  of  Closeburn,  to 
the  abbey  of  Kelso  ;  but  the  family  of  Kirkpatrick  pos- 
sessed the  patronage  of  both  churches,  as  well  as  the 
larger  part  of  the  lands.  In  the  year  1606,  these 
churches  were  united  by  the  General  Assembly,  held  at 
Linlithgow,  in  which  union  they  continued  till  1648, 
when  they  were  disjoined,  and  so  remained  until  1697, 
when  Dalgarno  was  again  annexed  to  Closeburn. 

The  parish  is  ten  miles  in  extreme  length,  and  seven 
and  a  half  in  extreme  breadth,  and  contains  30,189 
acres.  One  of  its  principal  features  is  the  valley  of 
Closeburn,  situated  in  the  mountain  range,  composed 
chiefly  of  transition  rock,  which  runs  across  the  island 
from  the  German  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The  surface 
of  the  parish  gradually  rises  from  the  western  extremity, 
till  it  attains  its  highest  elevation  at  the  north-eastern 
boundary,  at  which  part  Queensberry  hill,  one  of  the 
highest  in  the  south  of  Scotland,  and  sometimes  called 
the  Queen  of  Hills,  rises  2140  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  land  in  the  western  and  midland  districts 
is  chiefly  in  tillage  ;  but  there  are  considerable  plan- 
tations towards  the  east  and  north,  and  in  this  direc- 
tion the  high  grounds  consist  of  extensive  moors, 
unfit  for  the  plough,  though  affording  good  pasture  for 
sheep.  The  river  Nith  runs  along  the  south-western, 
and  the  Cample  along  the  western,  boundary  of  the 
parish ;  and  among  the  numerous  smaller  streams,  the 
most  distinguished  is  the  Crickup,  which,  falling  over  a 
precipice  ninety  feet  high,  forms  the  celebrated  cascade 
known  by  the  name  of  "  Grey  mare's  tail."  The  course 
of  this  stream  is  beautified  by  much  bold  and  romantic 
scenery,  especially  at  Crickup  Linn,  a  second  fall,  where 
the  stream,  running  through  old  worn  massive  rocks, 
and  shrouded  from  the  eye  in  its  passage  by  rich  and 
varied  foliage,  presents  a  singularly  interesting  scene, 
which  the  author  of  IVaverley  has  compared  to  the 
retreat  of  Balfour  of  Burleigh,  in  Lanarkshire. 

Along  the  river  Nith  the  soil  is  a  fine  rich  loam  ; 
higher  up,  it  is  a  sandy  gravel  to  the  depth  of  twenty 
feet,  well  adapted  to  barley  and  turnips  ;  and  as  the 
ground  further  rises,  it  is  of  the  same  nature,  but  strong 
and  deep,  with  a  mixture  of  clay,  which  feature  it  retains 
till  it  reaches  the  high  land.  About  5683  acres  are 
under  tillage,  and  23,006  in  pasture ;  the  natural  woods 
and  plantations  cover  about  1500  acres.  All  kinds  of 
grain  are  produced,  with  green  crops ;  the  cattle  con- 
sist of  the  Galloway  and  Ayrshire  breeds,  to  the  raising 
of  which  great  attention  is  paid,  and  the  sheep  are  of 
the  short  black-faced  breed.  A  lime  rock  was  dis- 
covered many  years  ago,  of  great  extent,  of  which 
advantage  was  taken  by  the  proprietor  of  the  parish, 
who  applied  the  contents  of  it  so  plentifully,  that  very 
large  quantities  of  sterile  ground,  much  of  which  was 
moor,  was  brought  into  cultivation ;  and  from  this 
period  the  inhabitants  date  the  rise  of  their  present 
flourishing  system  of  husbandry.  A  plantation  of  ninety 
acres  was  recently  cut  down,  consisting  of  Scotch  fir 
sixty  years  old,  and  was  disposed  of  for  £10,000;  the 
soil  upon  which  it  grew  was  poor  and  sandy,  and  not 
worth  sixpence  per  acre  when  the  trees  were  planted. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £11,873. 
The  rocks  consist  of  greywacke,  limestone,  and  old  red 
sandstone.     The  limestone  quarry  consists  of  two  dis- 


CLUN 


C  LU  N 


tinct  beds  of  different  qualities,  separated  from  each  other 
by  about  eighteen  feet  of  impure  limestone  ;  the  upper 
bed  is  of  too  caustie  a  nature  for  the  soil,  but  the 
under  bed  is  wrought,  and  supplies  an  immense  quan- 
tity of  lime  manure.  Closeburn  Hall,  the  seat  of  Sir 
Charles  Stuart  Menteath,  Bart.,  is  a  spacious  struc- 
ture after  the  Grecian  style,  and  situated  in  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  valleys  in  the  south  of  Scotland. 
There  are  two  turnpike-roads,  one  of  which  connects 
Annandale  with  Nithsdale,  and  the  other  forms  a  part 
of  the  great  road  from  Carlisle  to  Glasgow,  by  Dum- 
fries, and,  at  a  distance  of  four  miles  northward,  has  a 
branch  to  Edinburgh.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Penpont  and  synod  of 
Dumfries  ;  patron,  Sir  Charles  Menteath.  There  is  a 
substantial  and  commodious  manse,  with  a  glebe  of  1 1 
acres,  valued  at  £19  per  annum  ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £"234.  19.  3.  The  church  was  built  in  1741,  and  has, 
within  these  few  years,  been  thoroughly  repaired  ;  it  is 
a  handsome  building,  conveniently  situated,  and  will 
accommodate  650  persons  with  sittings.  The  principal 
school,  which  is  of  some  eminence,  is  a  free  school,  con- 
ducted by  a  rector  and  assistants.  It  was  endowed  in 
1723,  by  John  Wallace,  Esq.,  a  native  of  the  parish, 
and  a  wealthy  Glasgow  merchant,  who  left  £1600,  part 
of  which  was  to  be  appropriated  to  the  erection  of  pre- 
mises, and  the  remainder  to  be  invested  in  land  for 
the  master's  salary,  which  at  the  present  time  amounts 
to  £500  a  year.  In  this  valuable  institution,  called  Wal- 
lace Hall  from  the  name  of  its  founder,  the  children  of 
the  parish  may  obtain  gratuitous  instruction  in  Greek, 
Latin,  book-keeping,  and  all  the  ordinary  branches  of 
education.  The  chief  relic  of  antiquity  is  the  castle,  which 
is  a  vaulted  quadrilateral  tower,  about  fifty  feet  high, 
thirty-three  long,  and  forty-five  broad  ;  the  walls  of  the 
ground-floor  are  twelve  feet  thick,  and  it  is  conjectured, 
from  the  general  style  of  the  building,  that  it  must  be 
800  years  old.  There  are  also  several  large  cairns  in 
the  parish. 

CLOVA,  county  Forfar. — See  Cortachy. 

CLUNIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth,  5  miles 
(W.  by  S.)  from  Blairgowrie ;  containing  763  inhabit- 
ants. This  place,  which  is  of  remote  antiquity,  is  dis- 
tinguished as  the  scene  of  a  battle  between  the  Caledo- 
nians and  the  Romans  under  Agricola.  In  a  field  near 
the  Hill  of  Gourdie,  are  still  remaining  several  mounds, 
in  a  parallel  direction,  separated  by  trenches  of  equal 
length,  called  the  "  Steeds  Stalls  ;"  and  here  the  ad- 
vanced guard  of  the  Caledonian  army  was  posted  to 
watch  the  movements  of  the  Roman  army,  which  was 
encamped  on  the  plains  of  Inchtuthill,  about  two  miles 
to  the  south.  There  are  also,  in  several  places,  nume- 
rous cairns  and  tumuli,  which  are  generally  supposed  to 
have  been  raised  over  the  bodies  of  those  who  fell  in 
the  engagement.  On  the  summit  of  an  eminence  to 
the  west  of  Loch  Clunie,  called  the  Castle  Hill,  are  some 
vestiges  of  a  very  ancient  structure,  said  to  have  been 
a  summer  palace  of  Kenneth  Mc  Alpine,  King  of  the 
Scots.  He  conquered  the  Picts,  and  united  the  two 
kingdoms,  the  respective  boundaries  of  which  are  pointed 
out  by  two  immense  heaps  of  stones,  one  in  the  north- 
west, and  the  other  in  the  north-east  of  the  parish. 
The  barony  anciently  belonged  to  the  see  of  Dunkeld  ; 
and  about  the  commencement  of  the  sixteenth  century, 
an  episcopal  palace  was  erected  on  an  island  in  Loch 
203 


Clunie,  by  Bishop  Brown,  who  died  in  1514.  This, 
together  with  the  barony,  now  the  property  of  the  Earl 
of  Airlie,  was  granted  by  Bishop  Crichton,  about  the 
time  of  the  Reformation,  to  his  brother,  Sir  Robert 
Crichton,  of  Elliock  Castle,  in  the  county  of  Dumfries, 
whose  son,  the  Admirable  Crichton,  is  supposed  to  have 
been  born  at  this  place. 

The  parish,  which  is  intersected  by  an  intervening 
portion  of  that  of  Caputh,  is  about  nine  miles  in  length, 
and  four  in  extreme  breadth,  and  is  supposed  to  contain 
about  S000  acres,  of  which  nearly  3000  are  arable,  and 
the  remainder  moss,  heath,  and  mountain  pasture.  The 
surface  is  mountainous,  interspersed  with  considerable 
tracts  of  low  ground,  watered  by  numerous  small 
streams.  The  highest  of  the  mountains  is  Benachally, 
which,  in  a  clear  state  of  the  atmosphere,  commands 
extensive  and  beautifully  varied  prospects ;  on  the  north 
side  are  the  remains  of  the  forest  of  Clunie,  said  to 
have  been  a  royal  forest,  and  at  its  base  is  the  loch  of 
Benachally,  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  half  a  mile 
broad.  Higher  up  among  the  hills  is  the  small  lake  of 
Lochnachat,  which,  like  the  former,  abounds  with  ex- 
cellent trout ;  and  about  four  miles  to  the  south  is  the 
beautiful  Loch  Clunie,  about  two  miles  and  a  half  in 
circumference,  and  eighty-four  feet  in  extreme  depth. 
In  it  are  found  trout  from  two  to  ten  pounds  in  weight, 
pike  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  pounds,  and  perch  and 
eels  of  large  size  and  excellent  quality.  Near  the  western 
shore  of  this  lake  is  the  island  on  which  the  ancient 
palace  was  built,  the  walls  of  which  are  nine  feet  in 
thickness  ;  it  is  in  good  preservation,  and  occasionally 
the  residence  of  the  Earl  of  Airlie.  The  island,  which 
is  a  fine  verdant  plain,  embellished  with  plantations, 
among  which  are  some  trees  of  venerable  growth,  is 
mostly  artificial ;  and  in  addition  to  the  palace,  now 
Clunie  Castle,  are  the  site  and  some  slight  remains  of 
an  ancient  chapel. 

The  soil  is  various,  and,  though  light  and  gravelly 
in  many  parts,  produces  abundant  crops  of  oats,  barley, 
and  wheat,  with  peas  and  potatoes  of  excellent  quality  ; 
the  system  of  agriculture  is  improved.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5706.  The  plantations 
have  been  greatly  increased  in  extent,  and  are  gene- 
rally thriving  ;  they  consist  chiefly  of  larch,  and  spruce 
and  Scotch  firs,  and  many  of  the  lands  previously 
covered  with  heath  and  furze,  are  now  embellished  with 
well-grown  trees.  Limestone  is  found  on  the  lands  of 
Gourdie,  and  is  wrought  for  manure ;  there  are  also 
some  quarries  of  freestone  and  slate.  Forneth,  a  seat 
in  the  parish,  on  the  north-west  bank  of  Loch  Clunie, 
is  beautifully  situated  on  an  eminence,  at  the  base  of 
which  the  Lunan  flows  into  the  lake.  Gourdie  is  a 
spacious  mansion,  on  high  ground  a  little  to  the  south 
of  the  lake,  commanding  a  rich  prospect  over  the  sur- 
rounding country.  Williamsburgh  is  the  only  village  of 
any  importance ;  the  inhabitants  are  partly  employed 
in  hand-loom  weaving  during  the  winter.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
presbytery  of  Dunkeld  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling. 
The  minister's  stipend  is  £173,  "with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £6  per  annum  ;  patrons,  the  Duke  of 
Atholl  and  the  Earl  of  Airlie,  alternately.  The  church, 
erected  in  1840,  at  the  expense  of  the  heritors,  is  a 
handsome  structure  in  the  later  English  style,  with  an 
embattled  tower  crowned  by  turrets  at  the  angles,  and 

2D  2 


CL  Y  N 


C  L  Y  N 


contains  600  sittings.  A  place  of  worship  has  been 
erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  attended  by  about  forty  children  ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house,  and  an  allow- 
ance in  lieu  of  garden.  There  is  a  parochial  library, 
supported  by  subscription.  On  the  eastern  acclivity  of 
the  mountain  of  Benachally,  is  a  large  cavern  called  the 
Drop,  from  the  roof  of  which  water  is  perpetually  drop- 
ping ;  and  at  the  base  of  the  mountain,  is  a  sepulchral 
cairn,  to  the  south  of  which  are  numerous  smaller  cairns. 
To  the  north  of  a  hill  named  Stanley  Know,  is  some 
rising  ground  called  Gallow  Drum  ;  and  near  the  glebe 
land  is  another,  styled  Gibbet  Know  :  both  are  sup- 
posed to  have  been  places  of  execution  during  the  feudal 
times. 

CLUNY,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kincardine 
O'Neil,  county  of  Aberdeen,  15  miles  (W.  by  N.) 
from  Aberdeen ;  containing  959  inhabitants.  The  name 
of  this  place,  signifying,  in  Gaelic,  meadows  interspersed 
with  rising  grounds,  is  descriptive  of  the  appearance  of 
the  locality.  The  parish  is  about  ten  miles,  from  east 
to  west,  in  length,  and  about  two  in  breadth ;  the  soil  is 
mostly  warm  and  dry,  and  the  lands  are  intersected  by 
several  rivulets,  some  of  them  of  considerable  size, 
flowing  in  different  directions,  from  the  surrounding 
hills,  and  sometimes  overflowing  the  adjacent  low 
grounds.  In  the  western  part  is  a  mountain  called  the 
forest  of  Corranie,  forming  the  boundary  of  the  parish, 
and  which,  though  now  destitute  of  wood,  was  formerly, 
it  is  said,  remarkable  for  a  profusion  of  it.  The  rent  of 
land  averages  thirteen  shillings  per  acre  ;  agricultural 
improvements  have  been  for  a  considerable  time  steadily 
advancing,  and  the  generally  level  surface  is  favourable 
to  the  operations  of  husbandry.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £4425.  The  gentlemen's  seats 
comprise  the  handsome  castle  of  Cluny,  Castle- Fraser, 
and  the  recently  built  mansion-house  of  Linton  ;  the  se- 
cond was  erected  in  the  beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century, 
and  many  improvements  have  been  carried  into  effect 
by  the  respective  proprietors.  The  produce  of  the  pa- 
rish is  usually  sent  to  Aberdeen,  the  Skene  and  Alford 
turnpike-road  passing  through,  and  affording  facility 
for  its  transit.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  were  formerly 
employed  in  the  knitting  of  stockings.  The  parish  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Kincardine  O'Neil  and  synod  of  Aber- 
deen ;  and  the  Crown,  the  proprietor  of  Cluny,  and  the 
proprietor  of  Castle-Fraser,  are  alternate  patrons,  the 
first  exercising  patronage  on  account  of  half  of  the  old 
parish  of  Kinnerny  having  been  annexed  to  Cluny  in 
1743.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £173.  16.  J.,\  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The 
church  is  a  plain  substantial  edifice,  erected  in  lieu  of 
the  former  building,  which  had  become  ruinous,  in 
1789.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruction 
in  the  ordinary  branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£25.  13.  4.,  with  an  allowance  for  a  garden,  and  £14 
fees  :  he  also  shares  in  the  Dick  bequest,  and  receives 
the  interest  of  £200,  left  by  Mr.  Robertson,  for  teach- 
ing eight  poor  children. 

CLYDESDALE.— See  Lanarkshire. 

CLYNE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Sutherland, 
6  miles  (N.  E.)   from  Golspie  ;   containing,  with  the  vil- 
lage of  Brora,  1765  inhabitants.     This  parish  is  about 
twenty-four  miles  in  length,  from  north-west  to  south- 
204 


east,  and  from  six  to  eight  in  breadth,  and  contains 
65,000  acres  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  south-east  by  the 
German  Ocean.  The  surface,  in  the  well-cultivated  dis- 
trict along  the  coast,  is  tame,  but,  in  other  parts,  greatly 
diversified,  comprising  the  most  prominent  and  charac- 
teristic features  of  Highland  scenery.  The  glens  and 
lakes,  adorned  with  natural  woods  and  plantations,  as 
seen  from  the  vicinity  of  Killean,  which  also  commands 
a  prospect  of  the  abrupt  precipices  overhanging  Loch 
Brora,  and  the  lofty  mountains  of  Ben-Clibrig,  Ben- 
Ormin,  and  Ben-Horn,  are  among  the  finest  portions  of 
this  secluded  district.  Beyond  Strath-Brora,  however, 
about  nine  miles  from  the  coast,  the  general  aspect  of 
the  scenery  becomes  bleak  and  heathy,  with  extensive 
tracts  of  moor  and  moss,  intersected  by  numerous  rivu- 
lets, and  lofty  ranges  of  hills.  The  coast,  in  general,  is 
low  and  sandy,  and  marked  by  a  ridge  of  sand  hills, 
covered,  in  the  more  abrupt  parts,  with  bent,  and  in  the 
others,  with  tolerably  good  pasture.  The  river  Brora, 
the  principal  stream,  is  celebrated  for  salmon  of  a  supe- 
rior size  and  flavour ;  it  has  its  source  in  the  forest  of 
Ben-Clibrig,  and,  after  a  winding  course  of  thirty  miles, 
within  the  parish,  discharges  itself  into  the  sea  at 
Brora.  The  largest  sheet  of  water  is  Loch  Brora,  which 
is  about  four  miles  long,  and  varies  from  a  quarter  to 
half  a  mile  in  breadth  ;  its  banks  are  clothed  with 
several  clumps  of  natural  wood,  and  extensive  planta- 
tions of  fir  ;  and  the  bold  and  precipitous  Carrol  rock, 
with  the  mansion-house  of  Kilcalmkill,  contributes  to 
its  interesting  and  beautiful  scenery. 

The  principal  part  of  the  parish  consists  of  high  and 
irreclaimable  hill-pasture,  and  is  laid  out  in  extensive 
sheep-walks  ;  the  sheep  are  the  pure  Cheviots,  to  the 
breed  of  which  great  attention  is  paid,  and  the  total  num- 
ber kept  is  nearly  1 1,000.  The  land  in  tillage  is  supposed 
to  comprehend  no  more  than  about  1400  acres,  the  soil  of 
which  is  mostly  sharp  gravel,  and  unfit  for  the  production 
of  wheat ;  between  two  and  three  hundred  acres  are  under 
plantation.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£2910.  The  rocks  consist  chiefly  of  sandstone,  two 
quarries  of  which  are  wrought  to  a  considerable  extent ; 
the  material  found  in  one  of  these  is  remarkably  hard, 
compact,  and  durable,  and  contains  numerous  petrifac- 
tions of  trees,  fishes,  and  shells,  which  attract  the  notice 
of  scientific  travellers.  Coal  was  wrought  near  the 
mouth  of  the  river  Brora,  so  far  back  as  1573,  and  at 
several  subsequent  periods,  but  the  works  were  discon- 
tinued many  years  ago  ;  the  late  Duke  of  Sutherland 
sank  a  new  pit,  and  erected  the  necessary  buildings,  at 
a  cost  of  £16,000,  and  the  coal  was  conveyed  to  the 
harbour,  on  a  railroad  800  yards  long.  Four  large 
salt-pans  were  also  erected,  from  which  salt  of  a  very- 
superior  quality  was  obtained.  On  the  Brora  is  a 
salmon-fishery,  rented  at  £300  per  annum,  and  there 
are  several  boats  regularly  employed,  in  the  season,  in 
the  herring-fishing,  which  supply  the  neighbourhood  with 
all  the  ordinary  kinds  of  fish,  at  a  very  cheap  rate.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of 
Dornoch  and  synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caithness;  patron, 
the  Duke  of  Sutherland,  who  is  proprietor  of  the  whole 
parish.  The  stipend  is  £144.  15.  7-;  and  there  is  a 
handsome  and  commodious  manse,  with  a  glebe  valued 
at  £12  per  annum.  The  church,  a  plain  structure,  was 
built  about,  the  year  1770  5  it  was  repaired  and  enlarged 
about  1827,  and  will  accommodate  nearly  1000  persons 


COAL 


COCK 


with  sittings,  the  whole  of  which  are  free.  A  place  of 
worship  has  been  erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free 
Church.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  where  the  ordi- 
nary branches  of  education  are  taught  ;  the  master  has 
the  maximum  salary,  a  house,  garden,  and  a  small  sum 
from  fees.  There  is  also  a  good  Assembly's  school  in 
the  village  of  Brora.  The  chief  relic  of  antiquity  is  the 
celebrated  Pictish  tower  called  "Castle  Cole,"  which  is  the 
most  entire  specimen  of  this  kind  of  tower  in  the  country, 
excepting  that  of  Dornadilla,  in  the  parish  of  Durness. 
It  is  protected  on  three  sides  by  the  river,  and  has  on 
the  other  side  a  precipice  of  seventy  feet ;  it  is  oblong 
in  form,  with  walls  eleven  feet  thick,  without  lime  or 
mortar,  and  appears  to  have  been  a  place  of  great 
strength. 

COALHILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Campbell- 
town,  district  of  Cantyre,  county  of  Argyll,  3  miles 
(W.)  from  Campbelltown.  This  village,  which  is  situated 
in  the  western  part  of  the  parish,  is  inhabited  chiefly 
by  persons  employed  in  coal-mines,  from  which  a  canal 
has  been  constructed,  for  conveying  the  produce  to  the 
town.  A  chapel  of  ease  is  about  to  be  erected,  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  district  remote 
from  the  parish  church.  A  school  is  supported  by  the 
inhabitants. 

COALSNAUGHTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Tillicoultry,  county  of  Clackmannan,  3  miles  (N.  E.) 
from  Alloa;  containing  691  inhabitants.  It  lies  on 
the  road  to  Stirling,  not  far  from  the  river  Devon,  and 
is  inhabited  chiefly  by  colliers. 

COALTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kettle, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife,  1  mile  (S.  E.)  from 
Balmalcolm  ;  containing  S4  inhabitants.  This  village, 
which  is  situated  in  the  hilly  part  of  the  parish,  appears 
to  have  derived  its  name  from  the  coal-works  which  are 
still  carried  on  here,  though  not  to  so  great  an  extent 
as  formerly.  The  present  seam  in  operation  is  a  kind  of 
blind  coal,  which  is  solely  used  for  burning  lime  ;  the 
produce,  amounting,  in  value,  to  no  more  than  about 
£70  per  annum,  is  chiefly  sent  to  the  lime-works  at 
Pitlessie.  A  quarry  of  freestone  has  also  been  opened, 
and  is  worked  to  a  limited  extent,  and  used  for  building 
purposes,  and  for  the  inclosures  of  several  farms  in  the 
parish. 

COALTOWN  OF  BALGONIE,  in  the  parish  of 
Markinch,  district  of  Kirkcaldy,  county  of  Fife, 
1  mile  (S.)  from  Markinch;  containing415  inhabitants. 
This  village,  which  is  situated  to  the  west  of  Balgonie, 
consists  chiefly  of  cottages,  inhabited  by  persons  em- 
ployed in  the  collieries  from  which  it  takes  its  name,  and 
in  the  spinning-mills,  bleachfields,  and  other  works  in 
the  vicinity. 

COALTOWN,  EAST,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Wemyss,  district  of  Kirkcaldy,  county  of  Fife, 
4  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Kirkcaldy;  containing  165  inha- 
bitants. This  village,  which  is  in  the  mining  district  of 
the  parish,  is  neatly  built,  and  principally  inhabited  by 
persons  engaged  in  collieries,  which  are  extensively 
worked,  and  afford  an  abundant  supply  of  fuel  for  the 
neighbourhood. 

COALTOWN,  WEST,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Wemyss,  district  of  Kirkcaldy,  county  of  Fife  ;  ad- 
jacent to  East  Coaltown,  and  containing  37*2  inhabitants. 
This  village  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  persons  employed  in 
the  extensive  coal-works  on  the  estate  of  Captain 
205 


Wemyss,  and  for  whose  accommodation  it  has  been 
built. 

COALYLAND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Alloa, 
county  of  Clackmannan,  2  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from 
Alloa  ;  containing  234  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  a 
little  south  of  the  road  between  Aberdonie  and  Menstry, 
and  derives  its  name  from  being  the  seat  of  an  extensive 
colliery  :  the  river  Devon  flows  on  the  north  of  the 
village. 

COATBRIDGE,  a  village,  in  the  late  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Gartsherrie,  parish  of  Old  Monkland, 
Middle  ward  of  county  Lanark,  If  mile  (N.  W.)  from 
Airdrie  ;  containing  1599  inhabitants.  This  is  a  very 
thriving  place,  which  has  more  than  doubled  in  extent 
and  population  within  the  last  fifteen  years,  owing  to 
the  extension  of  the  iron  trade  in  the  district,  and  to 
its  being  in  the  vicinity  of  valuable  coal-mines ;  the 
Dundyvan  and  Summerlee  iron-works  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood are  conducted  on  a  large  scale,  and  afford 
employment  to  a  great  part  of  the  population.  The 
village  is  on  the  road  from  Airdrie  to  Glasgow  ;  and  the 
Monkland  canal  also  affords  facilities  of  communication 
with  the  adjacent  towns.  A  post-office  has  been  esta- 
blished here,  and  there  is  a  place  of  worship  for  mem- 
bers of  the  Free  Church. 

COATDYKE,  a  village,  in  the  late  quoad  sacra  pa- 
rish of  Gartsherrie,  parish  of  Old  Monkland,  Middle 
ward  of  county  Lanark  ;  containing  459  inhabitants. 
This  place  participates  largely  in  raising  the  mineral 
products  of  the  district,  iron  and  coal ;  and  in  the 
neighbourhood  are  several  quarries,  including  one  of 
white  freestone,  of  which  the  thickness  is,  in  some  parts, 
seventy  feet. 

COATS,  EAST  and  WEST,  villages,  in  the  parish  of 
Cambuslang,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ; 
the  one  containing  140,  and  the  other  146  inhabitants, 
chiefly  weavers  and  colliers.  They  are  seated  in  the 
north-western  part  of  the  parish,  a  short  distance  from 
the  village  of  Cambuslang. 

COCKBURNSPATH,  with  Old  Cambus,  a  parish, 
in  the  county  of  Berwick,  8  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Press; 
containing  1149  inhabitants,  of  whom  about  230  are  in 
the  village.  This  place  was  called  anciently  Colbrands- 
path,  from  Colbrand,  a  Danish  chieftain  who  is  said  to 
have  established  himself  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
and  subsequently  Cockbumspath,  from  its  having,  at  a 
very  early  period,  been  the  baronial  seat  of  the  family  of 
Cockburn.  It  comprises  the  united  parishes  whose 
names  it  bears,  and  of  which  the  latter,  Old  Cambus, 
was  annexed  to  the  former,  at  a  period  not  distinctly 
known.  The  castle,  whether  founded  by  Colbrand  or 
by  Cockburn,  appears  to  have  formed  part  of  the  pos- 
sessions of  Patrick  Dunbar,  afterwards  Earl  of  Dunbar 
and  March,  who,  when  this  district  was  infested  by  a 
daring  band  of  robbers,  mustered  his  retainers,  and, 
attacking  them  in  a  body,  killed  600  of  their  number. 
For  this  service,  the  king  created  him  Earl  of  March, 
and  conferred  upon  him  the  lands  of  Colbrandspath, 
together  with  the  castle,  which,  and  that  of  Dunbar, 
were  the  most  important  fortresses  in  this  part  of  the 
kingdom.  The  lands  appear  to  have  subsequently  been 
included  in  the  royal  demesnes  of  many  successive  kings, 
and  to  have  been  given  as  part  of  the  dowry  of  several 
of  their  daughters  ;  they  afterwards  became  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Earl  of  Home,  from  whom,  about  200  years 


COCK 


COCK 


since,  they  passed  to  the  Halls.  Little  more  of  his- 
torical importance  is  recorded  in  connexion  with  the 
place  than  the  passage  through  the  parish  of  the  Eng- 
lish army,  under  the  Earl  of  Hertford,  on  his  invasion 
of  Scotland  in  1544,  and  of  that  under  the  Earl  of 
Somerset,  in  1548. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north-east  by  the 
German  Ocean,  and  on  the  north-west  by  the  county  of 
Haddington,  and  comprises  9S00  acres,  of  which  5200 
are  arable,  600  woods  and  plantations,  and  the  re- 
mainder hilly  pasture  and  waste.  The  surface  is  greatly 
diversified  with  hill  and  dale,  and,  in  many  parts,  with 
narrow  deep  glens  through  which  small  rivulets  flow,  in 
rugged  channels,  into  the  sea  ;  the  hills  are  generally 
of  spherical  form,  and  the  highest  of  them  are  not  more 
than  from  500  to  600  feet  above  the  sea.  The  scenery 
is,  in  some  parts,  highly  romantic  ;  the  glens  are  dis- 
tinguished by  a  great  variety  of  features,  combining 
rocks  and  woods  and  streams  which,  frequently  ob- 
structed in  their  progress,  form  some  beautiful  cascades. 
On  the  precipitous  ridge  which  incloses  the  Tower  glen, 
are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  castle  ;  and  over  another, 
called  the  Pease  Den,  which  is  remarkable  for  its  depth, 
has  been  thrown  abridge  of  singular  construction.  The 
coast  is  bold  and  precipitous,  and  is  indented  with 
several  small  bays,  of  which  the  most  important  and 
the  most,  picturesque  is  that  named  the  Cove;  it  is 
completely  inclosed,  except  at  the  entrance,  by  precipi- 
tous rocks  rising  to  the  height  of  one  hundred  feet,  and, 
by  the  recent  construction  of  a  breakwater,  has  been 
formed  into  a  very  commodious  harbour  for  fishing- 
boats.  Numerous  excavations  formed  by  nature  in  the 
rocky  shores  of  the  bay,  have  been  appropriated  as 
warehouses  ;  and  one  of  them  has  been  wrought  into  a 
tunnel,  sixty  yards  in  length,  serving  as  a  means  of 
communication  with  the  shore,  and  affording  a  facility 
for  landing  goods  on  the  quay. 

The  soil  is  various  ;  extremely  rich  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  sea,  and  becoming  lighter  at  a  greater 
distance  from  the  coast,  till  it  degenerates  into  hilly 
pasture.  The  chief  crops  are,  grain  of  all  kinds,  pota- 
toes, and  turnips ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  an 
advanced  state,  and  the  rotation  plan  of  husbandry 
generally  practised.  Considerable  attention  is  paid  to 
the  management  of  live  stock  ;  the  sheep  are,  nearly  in 
equal  numbers,  of  the  Leicestershire  and  Cheviot  breeds, 
the  former  on  the  lower  lands,  and  the  latter  on  the 
higher,  some  of  a  cross  between  the  two.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £8648.  The  woods  are 
mostly  of  oak,  for  which  the  soil  appears  to  be  peculiarly 
favourable,  beech,  chesnut,  ash,  and  sycamore  ;  and  the 
plantations,  fir,  with  larch,  intermixed  with  various 
kinds  of  forest  trees.  The  substrata  are,  greywacke, 
greywacke-slate,  and  sandstone,  of  which  only  the  last 
is  quarried ;  it  is  of  a  coarse  quality,  and  of  the  old  red 
formation,  being  chiefly  valuable  for  its  property  of 
withstanding  the  action  of  heat.  The  village,  which 
had  fallen  into  a  state  of  neglect,  has,  within  the  last 
forty  years,  been  greatly  improved,  under  the  patronage 
of  Lady  Helen  Hall ;  it  is  partly  inhabited  by  persons 
employed  in  the  fishery,  and  contains  a  subscription 
library  of  considerable  extent.  Great  facility  of  com- 
munication is  afforded  by  the  road  from  Edinburgh  to 
London,  which  passes  through  the  centre  of  the  parish, 
and  by  numerous  handsome  and  picturesque  bridges 
206 


over  the  many  deep  ravines.  The  Pease  bridge,  of  four 
arches,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  village,  is 
strikingly  romantic  in  its  appearance  ;  it  is  300  feet  in 
length,  and  nearly  130  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the 
ravine.  Another  bridge,  over  the  Dunglass  glen,  of 
modern  construction  and  of  great  beauty,  has  one  spa- 
cious arch,  spanning  the  ravine  at  an  elevation  of  ninety 
feet  above  the  stream  that  flows  beneath  it ;  and  not 
far  distant  is  a  magnificent  bridge  for  the  line  of  the 
great  North-British  railway.  A  fair,  chiefly  for  toys, 
is  held  on  the  second  Tuesday  in  August.  A  consider- 
able fishery  is  carried  on  at  Cove ;  the  fish  chiefly  taken 
are,  cod,  haddocks,  whiting,  ling,  skate,  halibut,  and 
turbot.  Lobsters  and  crabs  are  taken  in  abundance,  in 
the  season,  and  are  sent,  by  shipping  from  the  port  of 
Dunbar,  to  London  ;  and  herrings  were  formerly  caught 
in  profusion,  but,  of  late  years,  few  have  appeared  on 
this  part  of  the  coast.  A  convenient  harbour  was  con- 
structed in  1831,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  fishing- 
boats,  and  capable  also  of  affording  shelter  to  vessels  of 
larger  burthen,  of  which  several,  laden  with  coal,  and 
bone-dust  for  manure,  frequently  put  in  here,  and  de- 
liver their  cargoes.  The  expense  of  completing  the 
harbour,  which  was  very  considerable,  was  defrayed 
partly  by  a  grant  from  the  government,  and  partly  by 
the  late  Sir  John  Hall. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dunbar  and  synod 
of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the 
Crown  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £245.  13.  3.,  with  a 
manse,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at  £27  per  annum.  The 
church,  a  very  ancient  structure,  with  a  round  tower, 
and  apparently  built  in  the  12th  century,  was  fully  re- 
paired in  1807,  and  reseated  in  1S26.  There  is  a  place 
of  worship  in  the  parish  for  members  of  the  United 
Secession  Synod.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruc- 
tion to  about  ninety  scholars  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £30,  with  £45  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  There 
are  several  vestiges  of  ancient  fortifications,  of  which 
the  chief  are  on  Ervieside  hill,  and  on  the  ridge  of 
Dunglass  Den  ;  many  urns,  also,  of  Roman  pottery 
have  been  at  various  times  discovered  by  the  plough. 
In  the  centre  of  the  parish  are  the  ruins  of  the  castle 
of  Cockburnspath,  apparently  erected  to  defend  the  pass 
of  the  ravine  at  the  entrance  of  which  it  is  situated  ; 
and  in  the  Old  Cambus  district,  are  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  church,  seated  on  a  lofty  precipice  overlooking 
the  sea.  It  was  dedicated  to  St.  Helen,  and  is  said  to 
have  been  erected,  in  gratitude  for  their  preservation, 
by  three  Northumbrian  princesses,  who,  fleeing  into 
Scotland  for  refuge,  were  wrecked  on  this  part  of  the 
coast. 

COCKENZIE,  late  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  includ- 
ing the  villages  of  Meadowmill  and  Portseaton,  in  the 
parish  of  Tranent,  and  part  of  the  parish  of  Preston- 
pans,  in  the  county  of  Haddington  ;  the  whole  con- 
taining 1061  inhabitants,  of  whom  570  are  in  the  village 
of  Cockenzie,  1  mile  (N.  E.)  from  Prestonpans.  This 
village,  which  is  situated  on  the  shore  of  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  is  almost  wholly  inhabited  by  fishermen,  who, 
during  the  winter,  are  chiefly  employed  in  procuring 
supplies  for  the  markets  of  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow, 
and,  in  the  spring,  engage  in  the  whale-fisheries  of 
Greenland.  The  fish  taken  here  are,  cod,  whitings, 
flounders,  and  oysters,  of  which  last  there  are  beds  of 
excellent  quality  ;   and  in  summer  those  who  have  not 


COCK 


COLD 


engaged  themselves  in  the  whale-fishery  go  to  Caith- 
ness for  herrings,  which  they  take  in  large  quantities, 
and  sell  to  the  curers.  In  autumn,  they  are  employed 
in  dredging  oysters,  and  catching  such  herrings  and 
other  fish  as  appear  in  the  Frith.  The  number  of  boats 
belonging  to  the  fishery  is  thirty,  of  which  ten  are  of 
sixteen,  and  twenty-one  of  seven  tons'  burthen ;  they 
are  all  without  decks,  but  well  and  strongly  built,  and 
capable  of  enduring  a  very  heavy  sea.  A  considerable 
foreign  and  coasting  trade  is  also  carried  on,  in  which 
two  vessels,  of  100  and  120  tons  respectively,  belonging 
to  this  place,  are  regularly  employed  ;  the  number  of 
other  ships  annually  entering  and  leaving  the  harbour, 
averages  from  250  to  300,  of  the  aggregate  burthen  of 
20,000  tons. 

The  harbour  was  constructed  in  1835,  by  Messrs. 
Cadell,  at  an  expense  of  £6000  ;  it  is  easily  accessible 
at  all  times  of  the  tide,  and  affords  great  security  to 
numerous  vessels  driven  in  by  stress  of  weather.  It 
has  sixteen  feet  depth  of  water  at  spring,  and  ten  feet 
at  neap,  tides  ;  and  though  formed  more  especially  for 
the  shipping  of  the  produce  of  the  collieries,  from  which 
to  the  port  an  iron  railway  has  been  laid  down  by  the 
proprietors,  it  has  been  of  great  benefit  to  the  fishery 
of  the  place.  A  mill,  driven  by  steam,  has  been  erected 
for  grinding  bones  and  rape-cakes,  chiefly  brought  from 
Germany,  for  manure,  and  employs  a  small  number  of 
the  inhabitants  not  engaged  in  the  fisheries;  there  are 
also  some  salt-works  in  the  district.  A  fair,  formerly 
of  some  importance,  but  now  chiefly  for  toys,  is  held  in 
November.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  district  are 
under  the  presbytery  of  Haddington  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  church  was  erected  in 
1833,  by  subscription,  chiefly  through  the  instrumen- 
tality of  H.  F.  Cadell,  Esq.,  aided  by  grants  from  the 
General  Assembly's  and  East  Lothian  Church  Exten- 
sion Societies,  and  a  contribution  of  £150  raised  by  the 
Rev.  A.  Forman,  of  Innerwick.  It  is  a  neat  edifice, 
built  at  an  expense  of  about  £600,  and  is  adapted  for  a 
congregation  of  450  persons,  and  capable  of  being  en- 
larged by  the  erection  of  galleries.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  derived  from  the  seat-rents.  A  school  is 
supported  by  subscription. 

COCKPEN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Edinburgh, 
3  miles  (S.  by  W.)  from  Dalkeith ;  containing,  with 
the  villages  of  Bonnyrigg,  Dalhousie,  Gowkshill,  Hill- 
head,  Hunterfield,  Polton-Street,  Prestonholme,  Skiltie- 
muir,  Stobhill-Enginc,  and  Westmill,  2345  inhabitants, 
of  whom  709  are  in  the  rural  districts.  This  place, 
which  is  on  the  river  South  Esk,  is  supposed  to  have 
derived  its  name  from  the  situation  of  the  church  upon 
an  eminence,  and  the  prevailing  colour  of  the  soil.  It 
comprises  chiefly  the  barony  of  Dalhousie,  the  property 
of  the  ancient  family  of  the  Ramsays,  of  whom  Wil- 
liam, Lord  Ramsay,  was  created  Earl  of  Dalhousie,  by 
Charles  I.  of  England,  in  1633.  There  are  still  some 
remains  of  the  ancient  baronial  residence  of  Dalhousie, 
which  was  a  quadrangular  structure  with  angular  towers, 
and  one  of  the  strongest  fortresses  in  this  part  of  the 
country ;  and  though  altered  into  a  slightly  castellated 
mansion,  as  a  family  residence,  it  still  retains  some 
vestiges  of  its  ancient  character.  The  parish  is  above 
three  miles  in  length,  and  two  miles  and  a  half  in  ex- 
treme breadth  ;  the  surface  is  pleasingly  undulated,  and 
the  prevailing  scenery  abounds  with  interesting  features. 
207 


The  banks  of  the  South  Esk,  which  intersects  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  parish,  are  crowned  with  ancient  wood  ; 
and  the  various  other  streamlets  which  flow  through 
the  lands,  add  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the  landscape. 
The  soil  is  generally  a  strong  clay,  well  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  grain,  and,  under  good  cultivation,  yielding 
crops  of  wheat,  barley,  oats,  and  peas,  with  a  few  pota- 
toes and  turnips.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £3S01.  The  plantations,  which  are  extensive, 
abound  with  every  variety  of  trees  and  ornamental 
shrubs,  and  are  in  a  highly  flourishing  condition.  The 
substrata  are  chiefly  coal,  which  is  very  abundant,  and 
limestone  and  freestone  of  excellent  quality,  which  are 
extensively  quarried  :  copperas,  also,  has  been  obtained 
within  the  limits  of  the  parish. 

The  ancient  castle  of  Dalhousie  is  beautifully  situated 
on  an  eminence  overlooking  the  river  Esk ;  it  was 
modernised  by  the  late  earl,  and  the  pleasure-grounds 
have  been  tastefully  laid  out  in  walks,  and  embellished 
with  shrubs  and  plantations.  On  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  river,  was  the  ancient  mansion-house  of  Cockpen, 
purchased,  within  the  last  few  years,  by  the  earl,  from 
Mr.  Baron  Cockburn,  by  whom  the  adjacent  lands  had 
been  greatly  improved  ;  only  some  of  the  walls  are  now 
standing,  which  give  a  truly  romantic  character  to  the 
scenery.  The  village  of  Cockpen  is  situated  on  the 
western  bank  of  the  South  Esk,  over  which  is  a  hand- 
some bridge  of  stone,  affording  facility  of  communica- 
tion ;  and  a  branch  of  the  Edinburgh  and  Dalkeith 
railway  extends  through  the  parish,  to  the  Mains  of 
Dalhousie.  In  the  several  villages  of  the  parish  are 
various  works.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Dalkeith  and  synod 
of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£157,  of  which  £24  are  paid  from  the  exchequer,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £21  per  annum  ;  patron, 
the  Earl  of  Dalhousie.  The  church,  erected  in  1S20,  is 
a  neat  plain  structure,  containing  625  sittings.  There 
is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church. 
The  parochial  school  is  well  conducted ;  the  master  has 
a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  £28. 

COLDINGHAM,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ber- 
wick ;  including  the  tract  of  Laverock,  and  the  late 
quoad  sacra  district  of  Houndwood ;  and  containing 
2830  inhabitants,  of  whom  a  considerable  portion  reside 
in  the  village  of  Coldingham,  3  miles  from  Reston, 
which  is  on  the  London  and  Edinburgh  road,  and  1 1 
(N.  N.  W.)  from  Berwick.  This  place,  of  which  the 
name  is  of  doubtful  derivation,  has  a  claim  to  very 
remote  antiquity,  and  appears  to  have  originally  ac- 
quired distinction  from  the  erection  of  a  nunnery,  in 
the  seventh  century,  by  Ebba,  daughter  of  Ethelfrith, 
King  of  Northumbria.  To  escape  from  the  solicitations 
of  Penda,  King  of  Mercia,  who  sought  to  obtain  her  in 
marriage,  she  resolved  to  leave  her  father's  kingdom, 
and,  embarking  for  that  purpose,  was  driven  by  a  storm 
on  the  promontory  of  this  coast,  which  from  her  de- 
rived its  name.  The  convent  that  she  founded  here, 
appears  to  have  subsisted  till  the  year  837,  when  it  was 
plundered  and  burnt  by  the  Danes,  who  inhumanly 
massacred  the  whole  sisterhood.  Some  slender  remains 
of  its  chapel,  however,  existed  till  about  the  middle  of 
the  last  century  ;  but,^he  cemetery  surrounding  it  being 
again  appropriated  as  a  burial-place,  they  were   soon 


COLD 


COLD 


afterwards  destroyed.  The  monastery  of  Coldingham 
is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Edgar,  King  of  Scot- 
land, about  the  year  1100,  though  other  writers  refer 
its  foundation  to  a  period  anterior  to  that  of  the  nun- 
nery of  St.  Ebba,  in  the  destruction  of  which  by  the 
Danes  they  say  it  participated,  and  that  it  was  only 
rebuilt  by  Edgar.  That  monarch,  being  driven  from 
his  throne,  fled  to  England,  where  he  obtained  from 
William  Rufus  an  army  of  30,000  men,  for  the  recovery 
of  his  dominions,  and  from  the  abbot  of  Durham  the 
consecrated  banner  of  St.  Cuthbert,  to  aid  him  in  re- 
ducing his  rebellious  subjects  to  obedience.  Having  suc- 
ceeded in  re-establishing  his  kingdom,  Edgar  founded 
or  refounded  the  monastery,  which  he  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin  Mary,  and  made  a  cell  to  the  abbey  of  Durham, 
from  which  establishment  he  placed  in  it  a  prior  and 
brethren  of  the  order  of  St.  Benedict. 

The  priory  continued  to  flourish,  in  uninterrupted 
prosperity,  from  this  time,  with  the  munificent  patron- 
age of  Edgar's  successors,  till  the  reign  of  Robert  III., 
under  whose  weak  government,  and  during  the  regency 
of  the  Duke  of  Albany,  the  monks  placed  themselves 
under  the  protection  of  the  family  of  Douglas,  of  whom 
the  laird  of  Home  became  its  sub-prior.  Not  long 
afterwards,  James  III.  obtained  the  concurrence  of  the 
parliament  for  the  suppression  of  the  priory,  the  reve- 
nues of  which  he  wished  to  appropriate  to  the  endow- 
ment of  the  chapel  royal  of  Stirling,  which  he  had 
founded,  but  their  proceedings  excited  an  insurrection 
of  the  Homes,  which  terminated  in  the  defeat  and  death 
of  that  monarch,  who  was  killed  in  battle,  near  Stirling, 
in  14S8.  The  priory,  in  1509,  was  separated  from 
Durham,  by  a  decree  of  the  pope,  and  annexed  to  the 
Abbey  of  Dunfermline,  whose  abbot,  Alexander  Stuart, 
a  natural  son  of  James  IV.,  and  also  archbishop  of  St. 
Andrew's,  who  fell  fighting  by  his  father's  side  at  the 
battle  of  Flodden-Field,  became  prior.  After  the  death 
of  Alexander  Stuart,  David,  brother  of  Lord  Home,  was 
made  prior  of  Coldingham.  The  priory  was,  in  1544, 
seized  by  the  English,  who  fortified  and  retained  pos- 
session of  it,  against  all  the  efforts  of  the  Earl  of  Arran, 
Regent  of  Scotland,  for  its  recovery ;  and  in  the  fol- 
lowing year,  it  was  plundered  and  burnt  by  the  Earl  of 
Hertford,  after  which  calamity  it  never  regained  its 
ancient  wealth  and  importance.  During  the  usurpation 
of  Cromwell,  it  was  defended  against  the  assaults  of  his 
troops,  by  a  party  of  royalists  who  had  intrenched 
themselves  within  the  walls,  and  who  vigorously  re- 
pulsed the  first  detachment  sent  against  them.  Crom- 
well, however,  bringing  up  in  person  a  stronger  force, 
with  several  pieces  of  cannon,  shook  it  to  its  foundation, 
and  compelled  the  royalists  to  capitulate  ;  and,  to  pre- 
vent it  from  again  becoming  an  obstacle  to  his  success, 
he  blew  up  the  church  with  gunpowder,  leaving  only 
one  of  the  walls  standing. 

The  parish,  which  is  about  twelve  miles  in  extreme 
length,  and  nine  in  extreme  breadth,  is  bounded  on  the 
north  and  north-east  by  the  sea  and  the  Frith  of  Forth. 
The  surface  is  diversified  with  hills  and  valleys  :  a  por- 
tion of  the  range  of  the  Lammermoor  hills  traverses  it, 
in  a  direction  from  east  to  west,  and  the  highest  eleva- 
tion, Wardlaw  Bank,  is  640  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
valleys  are  watered  by  various  streams,  of  which  the 
most  important  is  the  river  Eye,  which,  after  flowing 
with  a  gentle  current  through  the  whole  extent  of  the 
20S 


parish,  falls  into  the  ocean  at  Eyemouth.  The  only 
lake  is  that  of  Coldingham,  about  a  mile  to  the  west  of 
St.  Abb's  Head,  a  fine  expanse  of  water  covering  thirty 
acres  of  ground,  within  300  yards  of  the  coast,  and 
having  an  elevation  of  100  yards  above  the  sea;  it  is 
circumscribed  by  sloping  banks  of  barren  rocky  aspect, 
incapable  of  plantation,  and  abounds  with  perch,  the 
only  kind  of  fish  it  contains.  The  coast,  near  St.  Abb's 
Head,  is  rocky  and  precipitous,  and  indented  with 
numerous  caves  excavated  in  the  rock,  of  which  some 
are  of  large  extent,  and  with  natural  fissures,  inaccessi- 
ble from  the  land,  and  only  to  be  entered  from  the  sea 
at  low  water,  and  in  calm  weather. 

The  soil  is  various,  and,  in  some  parts  of  the  parish, 
fertile ;  but  there  are  large  tracts  of  barren  land,  in- 
capable of  being  brought  into  cultivation.  The  whole 
number  of  acres  is  estimated  at  about  57,000,  of  which 
6000  are  moor  and  waste,  about  500  in  woods  and 
plantations,  and  the  remainder,  in  nearly  equal  portions, 
arable  and  pasture.  The  chief  crops  are,  grain  of  various 
kinds,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  and  the  system  of  agricul- 
ture is  improved  ;  very  many  cattle  are  fattened,  and 
great  numbers  of  sheep  are  annually  reared.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £19,770.  The  natu- 
ral w;oods  consist  mostly  of  oak,  elm,  and  birch  ;  and 
the  plantations  of  the  various  kinds  of  fir,  and  larch, 
intermixed  with  the  usual  forest  trees.  The  rocks  are 
generally  of  the  transition  formation,  and  the  principal 
substrata  are  greywacke  and  greywacke-slate ;  the  pro- 
montory of  St.  Abb's  Head  is  one  mass  of  trap  rock, 
composed  mainly  of  trap  tuffa,  amygdaloid,  and  por- 
phyritic  felspar.  A  lucrative  fishery  is  carried  on,  for 
which  purpose  a  small  harbour  was  constructed  in  1833, 
at  Northfield,  about  a  mile  from  the  village,  at  an  ex- 
pense of  £1200,  of  which  sum,  about  one-fourth  was 
raised  by  subscription,  and  the  remainder  was  granted 
by  government.  The  fish  taken  off  the  coast  are,  cod, 
haddock,  turbot,  and  lobsters ;  and  about  seven  boats 
are  regularly  employed,  affording  support  to  thirty-six 
families,  of  which  number  thirty  live  in  the  hamlet  of 
Northfield.  The  cod  is  pickled,  the  haddocks  smoked, 
and  the  turbot  and  lobsters  are  sent  alive  to  the  Lon- 
don market.  The  village  of  Coldingham  is  pleasantly 
situated,  and  contains  many  neatly  built  houses  ;  a 
library  is  supported  by  subscription,  in  which  is  a  col- 
lection of  more  than  400  volumes  of  standard  works. 
The  weaving  of  cotton  affords  employment  to  more  than 
thirty  persons. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  presby- 
tery of  Chirnside  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale ; 
patron,  the  Crown.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is 
£267;  the  manse  was  built  in  1801,  and  enlarged  in 
182S,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at  £25  per  annum.  The 
church,  which  is  a  portion  of  the  ancient  monastery, 
was  repaired  in  1662,  and  is  well  adapted  for  a  congre- 
gation of  827  persons.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  United  Associate  Synod.  Two  paro- 
chial schools  are  well  attended  ;  the  masters  have  each 
a  salary  of  £25,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  fees. 
The  remains  of  the  priory,  though  dreadfully  mutilated, 
still  display  some  memorials  of  its  former  magnificence; 
they  contain  fragments  of  the  richest  details  in  the  Nor- 
man style,  from  its  earliest  period  to  its  transition  into 
the  early  English.  The  north  wall  of  the  church  was 
formerly    covered   with     series    of  intersecting   arches, 


COLD 


COLD 


springing  from  corbels  enriched  with  canopies  ;  but  the 
shafts  of  the  intercolumniations  have  been  cut  away, 
and  the  whole  wretchedly  disfigured.  The  triforium, 
however,  of  five  elegantly-designed  windows,  separated 
by  alternate  ranges  of  plain  and  clustered  columns,  sup- 
porting richly-moulded  arches  of  graceful  form,  is  still 
tolerably  entire,  and  various  other  portions,  of  elaborate 
design,  may  still  be  traced.  Upon  a  peninsular  rock 
projecting  into  the  sea,  about  two  miles  to  the  west  of 
St.  Abb's  Head,  are  the  ruins  of  Fast  Castle,  connected 
with  the  mainland  by  a  narrow  isthmus,  which,  for 
greater  security,  was  cut  away,  and  in  its  place  a  draw- 
bridge substituted.  By  whom  it  was  originally  founded 
is  not  clearly  ascertained  :  it  belonged  to  the  family  of 
Logan,  of  Restalrigg,  one  of  whom,  proprietor  at  the 
time  of  Gowry's  conspiracy,  was,  several  years  after  his 
death,  tried  and  condemned  for  the  part  he  took  in  that 
transaction,  and  his  estates  were  forfeited  to  the  crown, 
and  subsequently  conferred  upon  the  Earl  of  Dunbar. 
It  is  visited  chiefly  for  the  grand  prospect  it  embraces 
over  the  German  Ocean.  There  were  numerous  other 
strongholds  in  the  parish,  of  which  the  names  of  Lang- 
ton  Tower,  Heughead,  Renton,  and  Houndwood,  which 
last  was  the  hunting-seat  of  the  prior  of  Coldingham, 
only  are  recorded.  On  the  hill  to  the  west  of  St.  Abb's 
Head,  are  vestiges  of  a  Roman  camp,  and  on  another 
the  remains  of  a  British  camp,  defended  on  three  sides 
by  lofty  ramparts  ;  and  on  the  summit  of  Wardlaw 
Bank,  are  traces  both  of  a  Roman  and  a  British  camp, 
now  nearly  obliterated  by  the  plough. 

COLDSTREAM,  a  burgh  of  barony,  market-town, 
and  parish,  in  the  county  of  Berwick,  14  miles  (S.  W.) 
from  Berwick  ;  containing  2857  inhabitants,  of  whom 
1913  are  in  the  town,  and  150  in  the  village  of  New 
Coldstream.  This  parish,  which  is  of  considerable  anti- 
quity, was  originally  called  Leinhal,  or  Lennel,  a  name 
of  Saxon  etymology,  signifying  "a  great  hall,"  and  sup- 
posed to  have  been  derived  from  the  foundation  of  a 
Cistercian  monastery  by  Cospatrick,  Earl  of  March,  in 
the  early  part  of  the  twelfth  century.  The  small  village 
of  Lennel,  which  soon  afterwards  arose  round  the  priory, 
being  exposed,  from  its  situation,  to  hostile  incursions 
during  the  wars  of  the  Border,  sulfered  continual  depre- 
dations, and  was  ultimately  destroyed  by  the  English  ; 
not  a  vestige  of  it  is  left,  nor  can  even  the  site  be  dis- 
tinctly pointed  out.  The  monastery,  however,  flourished 
till  the  Dissolution,  when  its  revenues  amounted  to 
£'201  in  money,  three  chalders,  eleven  bolls,  two  firlots, 
three  and  a  half  pecks  of  wheat,  the  same  quantity  of 
bear,  and  also  of  meal ;  it  was  beautifully  situated  near 
the  confluence  of  the  river  Leet  with  the  Tweed,  and 
was  of  considerable  importance,  but  only  one  solitary 
vault  is  now  remaining.  During  the  usurpation  of 
Cromwell,  General  Monk,  who  had  fixed  his  head- 
quarters at  this  place,  raised  a  regiment  of  infantry 
here,  which  accompanied  him  on  his  return  to  England, 
for  the  restoration  of  the  exiled  monarch,  and  which  is 
still  distinguished  as  the  Coldstream  regiment  of  guards. 
After  the  decay  of  the  village  of  Lennel,  a  new  church 
was  erected,  in  1716,  at  Coldstream,  in  the  more  popu- 
lous district  of  the  parish  ;  and  to  this  circumstance 
may  be  attributed  the  increase  of  the  town. 

The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the   river  Tweed, 
over  which  is  a  handsome   stone  bridge  of  five   arches, 
which  connects  it  with  the  county  of  Northumberland  ; 
Vol.  L—  209 


and  affording  an  approach  on  the  west,  is  a  neat  bridge 
of  one  arch,  over  the  river  Leet.  It  is  neatly  built ;  the 
streets  are  lighted  and  cleansed,  and  the  inhabitants  are 
supplied  with  water,  under  the  regulations  of  the  Police 
act.  A  public  library  is  supported  by  subscription, 
which  contains  a  good  collection  of  works  on  general 
literature  ;  and  there  are  two  other  subscription  libraries, 
for  the  use  of  mechanics  and  the  working  classes.  No 
manufactures  are  carried  on  in  the  town  :  the  principal 
trade  of  the  place  consists  in  furnishing  coal  and  various 
other  articles  for  the  neighbourhood.  The  market, 
which  is  well  supplied  with  grain,  is  on  Thursday  ;  and 
there  is  also  a  monthly  market,  for  the  sale  of  cattle 
and  sheep,  which  is  numerously  attended.  The  salmon- 
fishery  on  the  Tweed  was  formerly  extensive  ;  but  the 
fish  have,  within  the  last  few  years,  been  very  much 
diminished,  and  the  whole  rental  at  present  is  scarcely 
£100  per  annum.  The  town  is  governed  by  a  baron- 
bailie,  appointed  by  the  superiors  of  the  two  baronies  of 
Coldstream  and  Hirsel,  in  which  it  is  situated,  and 
whose  jurisdiction  extends  to  civil  and  criminal  cases, 
for  the  determination  of  which  he  holds  courts  at  stated 
periods.  The  average  annual  number  of  civil  causes 
determined  is  about  thirty,  and  of  criminal  cases,  about 
six  ;  but  the  latter  are  chiefly  offences  against  the  police 
of  the  town,  to  which  the  bailie  confines  himself,  refer- 
ring all  more  important  matters  to  the  procurator-fiscal 
for  the  county.  There  is  a  small  prison  for  the  con- 
finement of  persons  previously  to  their  committal. 

The  parish,  which  is  situated  nearly  at  an  equal  dis- 
tance between  the  Cheviot  and  Lammermoor  hills,  is 
from  seven  to  eight  miles  in  length,  and  rather  more 
than  four  in  average  breadth.  The  surface  is  gene- 
rally level,  diversified  only  by  some  gentle  elevations  ; 
the  scenery  is  pleasingly  varied,  and  richly  embellished 
with  thick  woods  and  plantations.  The  only  streams 
which  have  their  source  here,  are  the  Gradenburn  and 
Shiellsburn,  which,  after  traversing  the  parish,  fall  into 
the  river  Tweed,  its  southern  boundary  ;  the  only 
lake  is  one  of  artificial  construction,  in  the  pleasure- 
grounds  of  Hirsel.  The  soil  is  mostly  rich,  especially 
near  the  rivers,  in  proportion  to  the  distance  from 
which  is  its  tendency  to  clay.  The  number  of  acres 
in  tillage  is  8000 ;  the  chief  crops  are,  grain  of  all 
kinds,  for  which  the  soil  is  well  adapted,  potatoes, 
and  turnips,  which  last  are  extensively  cultivated.  The 
system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  highly  advanced  state  ; 
bone-dust  is  applied  as  manure,  and  all  the  more  recent 
improvements  in  husbandry  are  in  use.  Great  atten- 
tion is  paid  to  live  stock  ;  the  cattle,  with  the  exception 
of  a  few  of  the  Highland  breed,  are  all  the  Teeswater 
or  short-horned,  and  the  sheep  are  of  the  Cheviot  and 
Leicestershire  breeds.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £15,317.  The  woods  are  of  oak,  birch,  beech, 
ash,  and  elm  ;  and  the  plantations,  Scotch  and  spruce 
firs,  intermixed  with  the  usual  forest  trees.  The  larch 
is  not  found  to  thrive  in  the  soil,  and  consequently  very 
few  trees  of  that  sort  are  planted ;  but  all  the  other 
kinds  seem  well  adapted  to  the  land,  and  are  in  a  pros- 
perous state. 

The  substrata  are,  white  sandstone,  clay-marl,  reddish 
sandstone,  limestone,  and  gypsum  ;  the  white  sandstone 
or  freestone  is  of  very  excellent  quality  for  building, 
and  is  extensively  quarried  in  several  parts  of  the  parish. 
The  red  sandstone  is  also  quarried,  but  not  to  any  great 

2  E 


C  O  L  I 


C  OL  I 


extent ;  the  limestone  is  of  inferior  quality,  and,  though 
quarried  in  some  places  for  the  roads,  is  not  burnt  into 
lime.  The  gypsum  is  found  chiefly  on  the  banks  of  the 
Leet,  where  it  occurs  in  nodules  of  a  reddish  hue,  and 
at  Milne-Graden,  where,  in  boring  for  coal  some  years 
since,  it  was  discovered  in  thin  veins  of  a  whitish  colour. 
Among  the  minerals  are,  crystals  of  quartz,  calcareous 
spar,  phrenite,  and  sulphate  of  lime,  with  numerous 
petrifactions  of  organic  and  fossil  remains.  Of  the  seats 
in  the  parish  are,  Lennel  House,  the  property  of  the 
Earl  of  Haddington,  lord  of  the  barony  of  Coldstream, 
a  handsome  mansion  of  modern  character  ;  and  Hirsel, 
the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Home,  lord  of  the  barony  of 
Hirsel,  an  elegant  mansion  of  white  stone,  erected  with 
materials  from  a  quarry  in  the  parish.  In  the  grounds 
of  the  latter  is  a  lake  of  considerable  dimensions  ;  and  at 
the  base  of  an  acclivity  rising  from  the  bank  of  the 
Leet,  and  richly  wooded,  a  monument  was  erected  by 
a  late  lord,  to  the  memory  of  his  eldest  son,  who  died 
in  America,  of  his  wounds  in  the  battle  of  Camden ;  the 
design  is  a  reduced  imitation  of  the  obelisk  of  Mattheus 
at  Rome.  The  seats  of  the  Lees,  Milne-Graden,  and 
Castlelaw  are  also  mansions  of  white  freestone,  and 
withiu  the  limits  of  the  parish. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Chirnside  and  synod  of 
Merse  and  Teviotdale  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Haddington. 
The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £233  ;  the  manse  is  a 
comfortable  residence,  erected  in  1830,  and  the  glebe 
comprises  11  acres  of  land,  valued  at  £40  per  annum. 
The  church,  erected  in  the  year  ]79o,  is  a  plain  sub- 
stantial edifice,  and  is  adapted  for  a  congregation  of 
1 100  persons.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members 
of  the  United  Associate  and  Relief  Synods.  The  paro- 
chial school  affords  instruction  to  about  120  children  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden, 
and  the  fees  average  £~5  per  annum.  The  late  John 
Bell,  Esq.,  bequeathed  £500  for  the  instruction  of  chil- 
dren of  the  town,  and  also  £300  for  supplying  them 
with  clothing  on  their  leaving  school.  Stone  coffins 
have  been  found,  and  quantities  of  human  bones,  in  the 
grounds  of  Hirsel,  and  near  the  junction  of  the  Leet 
and  Tweed,  where  the  ancient  abbey  was  situated. 
These  are  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  warriors  slain 
in  the  battle  of  Flodden-Field.  of  whom  the  most  illus- 
trious were  conveyed  to  Coldstream,  by  order  of  the 
abbess,  and  interred  in  the  abbey  cemetery.  Several 
ancient  coins  also,  of  the  reign  of  the  Jameses,  have  been 
discovered  in  the  grounds  of  Milne-Graden.  Patrick 
Brydone,  Esq.,  author  of  a  Tour  in  Sicily  and  Malta, 
and  for  many  years  resident  in  the  old  mansion  of 
Lennel  House,  was  buried  in  the  ancient  church  of 
Lennel,  of  which  there  are  still  some  vestiges. 

COLINSBURGH,  a  market-town,  in  the  parish  of 
Kilconq,uhar,  district  of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of 
Fife,  10  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from  Cupar,  and  2S|  (N.  E. 
by  N.)  from  Edinburgh  ;  containing  482  inhabitants. 
This  place  is  pleasantly  situated  in  the  south  of  the 
parish,  and  on  the  great  road  from  the  eastern  to  the 
western  part  of  the  county  along  the  southern  coast. 
It  is  neatly  built,  and  inhabited  chiefly  by  persons  em- 
ployed in  trade,  for  the  supply  of  the  parish  with  various 
articles  of  merchandise,  and  in  weaving  for  the  manu- 
facturers of  Dundee,  Kirkcaldy,  and  other  towns.  The 
currying  trade  is  also  carried  on,  by  a  company  who  are 
210 


proprietors  of  the  tannery  at  Kilconquhar,  and  who 
manufacture  leather  to  the  amount  of  £15,000  per 
annum,  and  afford  employment  to  about  twenty-four 
persons.  The  market,  which  is  a  large  mart  for  grain, 
is  held  on  Wednesday,  and  is  numerously  attended  by 
farmers  and  dealers  from  the  neighbourhood  ;  the  corn 
is  sold  by  sample,  and  considerable  quantities  are  for- 
warded to  Edinburgh,  Glasgow,  and  other  ports,  for  ex- 
portation. Fairs  are  held  in  June  and  October,  for 
cattle ;  and  in  March,  when  the  East  Fife  Agricultural 
Society  hold  their  meeting  in  the  town,  there  is  a 
public  market  at  which  great  numbers  of  cattle  are 
exposed  for  sale.  Colinsburgh  is  a  burgh  of  barony 
under  the  family  of  Lindsay,  earls  of  Balcarres,  from 
whose  ancestor,  Colin,  third  earl,  the  place  derived  its 
name.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  is  the  elegant  resi- 
dence of  Balcarres  House  ;  and  overhanging  it,  appears 
the  Crag  of  Balcarres,  which  confers  the  title,  and  is  a 
rock  of  considerable  altitude.  The  present  earl  is  the 
acknowledged  chief  of  the  very  ancient  house  of  Lind- 
say, many  of  the  members  of  which  have  been  interred 
in  the  old  chapel  near  the  mansion.  A  school  has  been 
established. 

COLINTON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Edinburgh, 
including  the  villages  of  Hailes- Quarry,  Juniper-Green, 
Longstone,  Slateford,  and  Swanston ;  and  containing 
2195  inhabitants,  of  whom  120  are  in  the  village  of 
Colinton,  4  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Edinburgh.  The  name 
of  this  place,  sometimes  written  Colington,  was  formerly 
Hailes,  a  word  signifying  "mounds"  or  "  hillocks,"  and 
accurately  descriptive  of  the  appearance  of  the  surface 
of  the  parish.  About  the  close  of  the  17th  century,  the 
designation  Colinton  chiefly  prevailed,  having,  for  some 
time  previously,  been  used  in  honour  of  a  family  of  that 
name,  who  had  come  into  possession  of  the  chief  estates. 
The  district  appears  to  have  been,  in  remote  times,  the 
scene  of  important  military  operations  ;  there  were  re- 
mains of  a  large  encampment  lately  existing  at  Comiston, 
and  extensive  cairns  in  the  vicinity,  whence  fragments 
of  old  military  implements  were  sometimes  taken.  The 
Kel  Stane,  "  the  stone  of  the  battle,"  which  is  a  large 
upright  stone,  from  time  immemorial  also  called  Camus 
Stone,  renders  it  probable  that  this  spot  was  originally 
the  encampment  of  some  Danish  forces.  In  the 
barony  of  Redhall  formerly  stood  a  strong  castle,  which, 
in  1572,  was  garrisoned  by  the  regent  Mar,  and  the 
king's  party.  In  1650,  it  was  defended  vigorously 
against  Cromwell  and  his  army,  by  the  laird  and  his 
veteran  band,  who,  upon  the  castle  being  taken,  was 
commended  by  Cromwell  for  his  bravery,  and  set  at 
liberty.  The  ecclesiastical  memorials  of  the  parish 
reach  back  to  the  commencement  of  the  13th  century, 
when  the  lands  were  granted  to  the  monks  of  Dun- 
fermline by  Ethelred,  son  of  Malcolm  Canmore,  and 
confirmed  to  them  by  his  brother,  David  I.,  and  by 
pope  Gregory,  in  1234.  The  vicarage,  however,  was 
taken  from  the  monks,  and  given  first  to  the  canons  of 
Holyrood,  and  afterwards  to  the  canons  of  St.  Anthony 
at  Leith,  which  grant  was  confirmed  by  Kennedy, 
Bishop  of  St.  Andrew's,  in  1445.  The  superiority  of 
the  lands  of  Wester  Hailes  remained  with  the  canons 
till  the  Reformation,  and  that  of  Easter  Hailes  con- 
tinued with  the  monks  till  the  same  period. 

The  parish  is  of  an  irregular  form,  about  three  and  a 
half  miles  in  length,  from  north  to   south,  and  about 


C  O  L  I 


COLL 


three  miles  in  breadth,  from  east  to  west,  and  contains 
5070  acres.  The  surface  and  scenery  are  richly  diver- 
sified, presenting  on  the  south-eastern  boundary  the 
northern  range  of  the  Pentland  hills,  rising  1600  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  from  the  skirts  of  which  the  ground 
slopes  gradually  to  the  level  of  the  Water  of  Leith, 
which  flows  through  the  lower  part  of  the  parish.  In 
the  direction  of  the  north-east,  the  elevations  of  the  Fir 
hill  and  Craig-Lockhart  hill  form  an  interruption  to  the 
general  declivity,  and  supply  romantic  features  in  the 
landscape,  enriched  by  elegant  mansions  surrounded  by 
gardens  and  plantations.  The  distant  views  from  the 
higher  lands  embrace  the  capital,  with  its  numerous 
spires  and  romantic  castle,  the  Frith  of  Forth  and  the 
coast  of  Fife,  the  Ochils,  and  the  celebrated  Grampians, 
which,  in  the  north-west,  bound  the  prospect.  The 
Water  of  Leith,  which  is  the  principal  stream,  though 
subject  to  repeated  sinkings  and  swellings,  is  used  to  a 
great  extent  for  the  purposes  of  commerce  and  domestic 
convenience,  turning  no  less  than  sixteen  mills,  and 
having  a  considerable  bleachfield  on  its  banks.  There 
is  also  a  variety  of  copious  and  excellent  springs,  from 
which,  for  a  very  long  period,  water  was  conducted  in  a 
regular  and  uniform  manner  for  the  supply  of  Edin- 
burgh. 

About  3436  acres  are  either  in  tillage  or  fit  for  tillage; 
1356  are  hilly  grounds  under  pasture,  and  278  are  in 
plantations.  The  arable  lands  lie  from  250  to  600  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  produce  good  crops  of  all 
kinds  of  grain,  potatoes,  turnips,  beans,  peas,  &c.  Few 
sheep  are  kept,  except  on  the  Pentland  hills,  and  on 
Craig-Lockhart,  consisting  chiefly  of  Cheviots,  with  a 
few  Leicesters  ;  the  number  of  cattle  reared  is  also  very 
small.  Very  considerable  improvements  in  husbandry 
have  been  made  within  these  few  years,  chiefly  in  deep 
draining,  and  a  proper  system  of  cropping.  As,  how- 
ever, a  large  proportion  of  the  ground  rests  upon  a  sub- 
soil of  stiff  clay,  the  furrow  drain  and  deep  plough  are 
still  requisite,  to  facilitate  the  productive  powers  of 
the  land.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£12,314.  The  great  abundance  and  variety  of  the  sub- 
terraneous contents  of  the  parish  give  it  altogether  a 
geological  character.  The  Pentland  hills  consist  of 
claystone,  porphyry,  and  felspar-porphyry  ;  the  crags  of 
Caerketan  are  clayey  felspar,  strongly  mixed  with  black 
oxide  of  iron.  Among  the  Pentlands,  also,  are  found 
boulders  of  granite,  gneiss,  &c,  with  jaspers  and  malac- 
tite.  Craig-Lockhart  hill  is  basaltic  rock,  and  the  bed 
of  the  Leith  water  abounds  with  highly  interesting 
mineral  productions,  among  which  are  fossil  remains  of 
fishes  and  vegetables.  There  are  two  freestone  quarries, 
large  quantities  of  the  contents  of  which,  at  different 
times,  have  been  conveyed  to  Edinburgh  for  building 
materials  ;  the  value  of  one  of  them  to  the  lessor,  some 
years  ago,  was  £9000  annually,  but  at  present  the  re- 
venue is  not  more  than  £1500. 

Several  beautiful  mansions  adorn  the  parish,  of  which 
Colinton  House  was  built  in  the  beginning  of  the  pre- 
sent century,  and  is  agreeably  situated,  commanding 
extensive  prospects  to  the  north  and  east.  Dreghorn 
Castle,  built  about  the  same  time,  stands  encompassed 
with  thick  plantations,  some  parts  of  which  consist  of 
ancient  beech-trees,  conferring  a  venerable  and  majestic 
appearance.  Comiston  House  and  Craig-Lockhart  House 
were  both  built  but  a  few  years  ago,  and  are  pleasantly 
211 


situated,  especially  the  latter,  having  for  its  site  a 
wooded  bank,  gently  declining  to  the  margin  of  the 
Leith  water.  In  a  hollow  which  commands  the  pass 
through  the  Pentland  hills,  near  the  House  of  Bonally, 
stands  a  Peel  tower,  in  the  midst  of  beautifully  romantic 
scenery,  built  by  Lord  Cockburn.  The  villages  of  Colin- 
ton  and  Slateford  have  each  a  post-office.  Facility  of 
communication  is  afforded  by  the  road  from  Edinburgh 
to  Lanark,  and  the  Union  canal  enters  the  parish  at 
Slateford,  and,  being  carried  over  the  valley  of  the 
Leith  water  by  an  aqueduct  of  eight  arches,  passes 
along  the  lower  side  of  it  for  about  two  miles  and  a 
half.  Of  the  mills,  ten  are  meal-mills,  one  is  for  saw- 
ing wood,  another  for  beating  hemp  and  lint,  one  for 
grinding  magnesia,  and  the  others  are  employed  in  the 
manufacture  of  paper,  which  has  existed  in  Colinton  for 
upwards  of  a  century.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Edinburgh  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  patrons,  the  communicants. 
The  minister's  stipend  is  £221,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £27  per  annum.  The  church,  which  is 
very  ancient,  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  vicinity  of 
Colinton  House  ;  it  was  rebtiilt  in  1771,  and  in  1817 
new-roofed,  and  in  the  year  1837  it  was  enlarged  and 
re-seated.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church  ;  also  a  chapel  at  Slateford,  built  in 
17S4,  the  minister  of  which  has  a  salary  of  £130, 
chiefly  from  pew-rents,  and  a  dwelling-house,  with 
garden.  A  parochial  school  is  supported,  in  which  the 
ordinary  branches  of  education  are  taught,  and  clas- 
sical and  mathematical  instruction,  with  French,  may 
be  obtained  ;  the  master's  salary  is  £34,  with  about 
£40  fees,  and  a  house  with  garden.  There  are  two 
libraries  ;  and  a  gardeners'  society  awards  small  pre- 
miums for  the  superior  cultivation  of  vegetables,  fruits, 
and  flowers. 

COLL  ISLE,  Argyllshire. — See  Tiree. 

COLLAGE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth;  in- 
cluding the  villages  of  Kinrossie  and  Saucher,  and  con- 
taining 702  inhabitants,  of  whom  191  are  in  the  village 
of  Collace,  7  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Perth.  Collace  is 
chiefly  celebrated  as  having  been  the  residence  of  the 
well-known  Macbeth,  Thane  of  Glammis,  who  erected 
his  castle  on  the  hill  of  Dunsinnan,  a  lofty  and  insulated 
eminence  in  the  parish,  rising  1024|  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  the  oval  summit  of  which  is  169 
yards  in  length,  and  89  in  mean  breadth.  Here  this 
usurper  of  the  Scottish  crown  held  his  court ;  but  on 
the  approach  of  Malcolm,  whose  father  Duncan  he  had 
murdered,  with  the  English  army  commanded  by 
Siwald,  Duke  of  Northumberland,  he  fled  northward, 
and  was  overtaken  and  slain  at  Lumphanan,  in  Aber- 
deenshire. His  castle  was  immediately  razed,  and  the 
remains  of  it  destroyed  by  fire.  The  parish  lies  in  the 
vale  of  Strathmore,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Sidlaw 
ridge  of  hills  ;  it  is  about  two  miles  long,  and  of  nearly 
the  same  breadth,  and  contains  about  3000  acres.  The 
surface  in  general  is  flat,  except  towards  the  hills,  where 
it  is  too  steep  for  the  plough.  From  Dunsinnan  hill 
fine  prospects  are  commanded  of  the  surrounding 
country  in  every  direction,  and  the  long  stretched-out 
and  lofty  Grampians  are  seen  to  rear  their  heads  in 
apparently  endless  succession.  The  soil  mostly  Consists 
of  a  light  dark-coloured  loam,  mixed  in  some  places 
with  clay,  and  resting  upon   a  heavy  red  sand.     The 

2  E  2 


COLL 


COLL 


number  of  acres  under  tillage  is  1/47;  100  are  in  pas- 
ture, and  560  are  under  wood,  consisting  chiefly  of 
Scotch  fir  and  larch.  Potatoes  and  oats  are  the  chief 
produce,  but  all  kinds  of  grain  and  green  crops  are  cul- 
tivated, of  good  quality,  improvements  in  husbandry 
having  been  commenced  at  a  very  early  period,  and 
carried  on  with  great  success.  Much  attention  has  been 
given  to  the  breed  of  cattle  and  horses,  many  of  which 
are  kept,  and  the  farm-houses  and  buildings  especially 
vie  with  those  of  the  best  parishes.  The  prevailing  rock 
is  sandstone,  from  two  quarries,  of  which  an  abundant 
supply  is  obtained  for  the  whole  parioh.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2751. 

The  chief  mansion  is  Dunsinnan  House,  which  has 
recently  been  much  enlarged  and  improved  ;  it  for- 
merly belonged  to  Lord  Dunsinnan,  a  senator  of  the 
college  of  justice,  and  member  of  the  high  court  of 
justiciary,  who  died  in  ISIS.  The  manufacture  of  yarn 
into  cloth  is  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent,  up- 
wards of  a  hundred  looms  being  in  full  operation.  The 
raw  material  is  obtained  from  Dundee  by  persons 
whose  business  it  is  to  purchase  it  in  large  quantities, 
and,  when  worked  up  into  webs,  is  returned  to  the  same 
place,  where  it  meets  vvith  a  ready  market.  The  Perth 
turnpike-road  traverses  the  parish  for  about  two  miles. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery 
of  Perth  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling  ;  patron,  the 
Crown.  The  manse  and  offices  are  commodious,  and 
there  is  a  glebe  worth  about  £12  per  annum  ;  the  sti- 
pend is  £155.  15.,  of  which  £87  are  received  from  the 
exchequer.  The  church,  built  in  1813,  is  a  handsome 
structure,  with  a  square  tower,  surmounted  by  minarets, 
and  contains  400  sittings  ;  it  is  situated  on  an  elevated 
ground,  surrounded  with  venerable  trees,  and  is  much 
admired  for  its  commanding  locality.  A  place  of  wor- 
ship has  been  erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free 
Church.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  every 
branch  of  instruction  may  be  obtained  ;  the  master  has 
excellent  accommodations,  with  the  maximum  salary, 
and  £27  fees.  A  parochial  library,  also,  has  been  re- 
cently established. 

COLLEGE  OF  ROSEISLE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish 
of  Duffus,  county  of  Elgin  ;  containing  53  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  Burgh-Head  hay,  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  west  of  Duffus,  and  south  of  the  road 
from  Burgh-Head  to  Elgin. 

COLLESSIE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cupar, 
county  of  Fife  ;  including  the  villages  of  Edenton, 
Giffordton,  Kinloch,  Ladybank,  and  Monkston  ;  and 
containing  1346  inhabitants,  of  whom  210  are  in  the 
village  of  Collessie,  5~  miles  (W.)  from  Cupar.  This 
place,  which  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Cupar  to 
Auchtermucbty,  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name 
from  the  position  of  its  village  at  the  bottom  of  a  glen, 
of  which,  in  the  Gaelic  language,  the  term  Collessie  is 
significant.  The  parish  is  about  eight  miles  in  extreme 
length,  and  four  in  average  breadth,  and  is  bounded  on 
the  south  by  the  river  Eden.  It  comprises  about 
16,540  acres,  of  which  5000  are  arable,  10,000  in  pas- 
ture, about  1200  woodland,  and  nearly  300  marsh  and 
uncultivated  waste,  the  whole  of  which  might,  without 
difficulty,  be  reclaimed  and  rendered  fertile.  The  sur- 
lace  is 'varied  ;  in  some  parts  rising  into  hills  of  mode- 
rate height,  of  which  the  sloping  sides  are  richly  culti- 
vated, and  in  others  spreading  into  open  vales  intersected 
212 


by  the  river  Eden  and  various  other  streams,  of  which 
the  principal  is  the  Keilour,  separating  the  eastern  por- 
tion of  the  parish  from  that  of  Monimail.  The  scenery 
throughout  is  pleasingly  diversified,  and  embellished 
with  natural  wood  and  flourishing  plantations.  A  tract 
of  common  comprising  nearly  1000  acres  has  been 
divided  and  inclosed  within  the  last  fifty  years,  and  is 
now  covered  with  plantations,  chiefly  of  fir;  and  the 
hills  in  general  are  crowned  with  ornamental  timber. 

The  soil  is  various ;  in  the  north  and  north-western 
portions,  extremely  fertile  ;  in  others,  light  and  sandy, 
and  in  some  parts  a  sterile  marsh.  Extensive  improve- 
ments have  been  made  in  draining.  The  Rossie  loch, 
which  covered  nearly  300  acres,  was  partly  drained 
towards  the  close  of  the  last  century,  but  remained 
little  better  than  a  morass  till  1806,  when  Captain 
Cheape  completed  the  undertaking,  and,  at  an  expense 
of  £3000,  reclaimed  250  acres,  which  now  produce  ex- 
cellent grain,  and  left  only  about  50  acres  in  the  centre, 
which,  though  affording  good  crops  of  hay,  are  still 
marshy.  The  lands  have  been  also  benefitted  by  an 
embankment  of  the  river  Eden,  and  by  deepening  the 
bed  of  the  Keilour  ;  and  the  system  of  agriculture  has 
been  greatly  improved  under  the  auspices  of  an  agricul- 
tural society,  supported  by  most  of  the  landed  pro- 
prietors in  the  district,  and  who  hold  annual  meetings 
for  the  distribution  of  prizes.  The  principal  crops  are, 
barley,  oats,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips;  and  the 
species  of  barley  called  Chevalier,  and  Italian  rye  grass, 
have  been  recently  introduced  by  the  members  of  the 
society.  The  pastures  are  very  extensive,  and  many  of 
them  luxuriantly  rich  ;  the  cattle  are  of  the  black  Fife- 
shire  breed,  crossed  occasionally  with  the  Teeswater  and 
Angus  breeds.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £8032.  The  substratum  is  chiefly  whinstone,  which 
is  quarried  for  building  purposes,  and  is  much  esteemed  ; 
sandstone  is  also  found  in  some  parts,  but  is  not  worked 
to  any  great  extent.  The  mansion-houses,  with  their 
well-planted  and  tastefully  laid  out  demesnes,  add  greatly 
to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  In  the  house  of  Kinloch  are 
preserved  some  of  the  earlier  pictures  painted  by  Wilkie, 
of  which  one  is  "  Pitlessie  Fair,"  containing  an  admirable 
group  of  more  than  150  figures,  chiefly  portraits,  and 
which  he  presented  to  the  late  Mr.  Kinnear,  in  testi- 
mony of  his  gratitude  for  the  hospitality  he  experienced 
at  Kinloch. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod  of  Fife  ; 
patron,  William  Johnstone,  Esq.  The  stipend  of  the 
incumbent  is  £223.  4.  9.  ;  the  manse  is  a  comfortable 
residence,  enlarged  and  nearly  rebuilt  within  the  last 
fifteen  years,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at  £15  per  annum. 
The  former  church,  an  ancient  edifice,  being  ill  adapted 
for  public  worship,  and  too  small  for  the  parish,  another 
has  lately  been  erected,  a  handsome  building  somewhat 
in  the  English  style,  with  a  short  square  tower,  and 
capable  of  seating  550  persons.  There  is  a  place  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  attended  by  nearly  seventy  scholars  ; 
the  master,  who,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  branches, 
teaches  Latin  and  the  mathematics,  has  a  salary  of 
£35.  12.,  with  £25  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  There 
is  also  a  parochial  library.  A  little  to  the  south  of  the 
village,  is  a  cairn  called  the  Gask  Hill,  consisting  of 
loose  stones  overgrown  with  turf,  about  twelve  feet  in 


COLM 


COL  M 


height.  Near  this  spot,  an  ancient  sword  about  eigh- 
teen inches  in  length,  and  several  fragments  of  human 
bones,  covered  with  a  few  flat  stones,  were  dug  up  some 
years  since.  On  the  lands  of  Melville,  and  near  the  site 
of  Hall  Hill,  the  ancient  mansion  of  that  family,  is  an 
upright  block  of  whinstone,  about  six  feet  in  circum- 
ference, and  nine  in  height.  In  the  hamlet  of  Trafalgar 
are  two  spots,  supposed  to  have  been  the  sites  of  mili- 
tary stations  erected  to  secure  the  pass  from  Newburgh 
to  the  interior  of  the  county  of  Fife,  from  which  circum- 
stance a  small  lake  between  this  place  and  Newburgh  is 
called  Lindores,  from  the  Gaelic  Linne-Doris,  the  loch 
of  the  pass.  The  eastern  fort,  called  Agabatha,  was 
seated  on  an  eminence  surrounded  with  a  moat ;  and 
relics  of  antiquity  have  been  discovered  near  the  spot, 
among  which  was  a  quern  or  hand-mill  of  mica-slate, 
and  a  number  of  coins  of  the  date  of  Edward  I.  The 
western  fort,  called  Maiden  Castle,  is  said  to  have  de- 
rived that  name  from  the  daughter  of  the  governor, 
who,  concealing  the  death  of  her  father  duriug  a  siege, 
continued  to  give,  herself,  the  necessary  orders  for  its 
defence,  till  the  assailants  were  compelled  to  abandon 
the  attempt.  The  site  of  this  fort  is  pointed  out  by 
some  trees  planted  there  by  the  late  proprietor  of  the 
land.  In  the  interval  between  the  forts  numerous 
coffins,  urns,  and  human  bones  have  been  frequently 
discovered;  the  urns,  one  of  which  is  still  preserved  at 
Kinloch,  were  of  Celtic  origin,  about  eighteen  inches  in 
height,  and  fifteen  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  extremely 
conical  inform.  Among  the  eminent  persons  connected 
with  the  parish,  w-as  Sir  James  Melville,  proprietor  of 
the  lands  of  Hall  Hill  in  the  time  of  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots ;  there  are  no  remains  of  the  mansion,  and  the 
site  of  it  has  disappeared  since  the  inclosure  of  the 
lands.  Dr.  Hugh  Blair  was  incumbent  of  this  parish, 
to  which  he  was  ordained  in  1742. 

COLLIESTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Slains, 
district  of  Ellon,  county  of  Aberdeen,  6  miles  (E.  by 
S.)  from  Ellon ;  containing  357  inhabitants.  This  is  a 
maritime  village,  situated  on  the  eastern  coast,  and  in- 
habited chiefly  by  fishermen,  who  obtain  a  comfortable 
livelihood  by  taking  various  kinds  of  white-fish,  but 
especially  haddock  and  cod,  which  are  cured,  and  sent 
in  large  quantities  to  Leith,  Glasgow,  and  London. — See 
Slains. 

COLLIN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Torthorwald, 
county  of  Dumfries,  2|  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from  Dum- 
fries ;  containing  233  inhabitants.  It  is  on  the  western 
borders  of  the  parish,  and  on  the  high  road  from  Annan 
to  Dumfries.  There  is  a  school,  of  which  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £20,  for  teaching  the  ordinary  branches 
of  education,  and  derives  as  much  more  from  fees. 

COLLISTONMILL,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  St. 
Vigean's,  county  of  Forfar ;  containing  61  inhabit- 
ants. It  lies  in  the  north-western  part  of  the  parish, 
on  the  confines  of  that  of  KinnelL  and  on  the  road  from 
Arbroath  to  Dunnichen. 

COLLOCHBURN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cam- 
buslang,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  con- 
taining 166  inhabitants.  The  greater  part  of  the  popu- 
lation is  employed  in  the  manufactures  of  the  district. 

COLMONELL,  a   parish,  in  the    district  of  Car- 
rick,   county    of  Ayr,    5    miles    (N.  E.)    from    Ballan- 
trae ;    containing    2801    inhabitants.      This    parish,    of 
which   the    name    is    of    very    uncertain    derivation,   is 
213 


about,  nineteen  miles  and  a  half  in  length,  and  seven 
miles  in  extreme  breadth.     It  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  the    Frith    of  Clyde,    and  comprises    56,800    acres, 
of   which   4000    are   arable,    2000    fine    meadow    land, 
800    woods  and    plantations,   and  the  remainder  moor 
and    rough   pasture.     The   surface  is  beautifully  varied 
with  hills  of  gentle  elevation,   inclosing  fertile  valleys, 
and  with  gradually  rising  grounds  and  level  meadows. 
The  chief  river  is  the  Stinchar,  which  has  its  source  in 
the  parish  of  Barr,  and,  in   its  winding  course  of  nearly 
nine  miles  through  this  parish,  receives  the  waters  of  the 
Dhuisk,  or  Blackwater,  a  river  of  nearly  equal  breadth, 
over  which  are  three  bridges  of  stone,  and   several  of 
wood.     The  banks  of  the  Stinchar  and  the  Dhuisk  are 
clothed  with  wood,   chiefly  oak,  ash,  elm,   birch,  alder, 
and   larch.     There   are  also  several   lakes,  of  which  the 
principal  are  Loch    Dornal    and   Loch  Mabiery,  which 
abound    with  romantic    scenery.     The  higher   grounds 
command  prospects    of  the  surrounding   districts,    but 
none  of  the  hills  have  an  elevation  of  more  than  700 
feet  above  the  sea,   and   the  views,   though   interesting, 
are  not  very  extensive.     The  finest  is  that  from  the  hill 
of  Knockdolian,   which   embraces  the   whole  extent   of 
the  vale  of  the  Stinchar,  from  Penmore  to  Knockdolian. 
The  soil  on  the  banks  of  the  Stinchar  is   extremely 
fertile  ;  the  higher  lands  are  chiefly  a  stiff  clay,  resting 
upon  gravel,   and  a  considerable  portion  is  poor  moor- 
land,  affording  scanty  pasturage.     The  chief  crops  are, 
oats,  wheat,  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips ;  the  system 
of  agriculture  is  in  a  very  advanced  state,  and  all  the 
more    recent    improvements     are    in    general     practice. 
Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  management  of  the  dairy, 
and  about  4000  stone  of  cheese  are  annually  produced 
for  the  neighbouring  markets.     The  Cunninghame  breed 
of  cows  is  daily  increasing,  and  about  500  of  that  kind 
are    pastured   on    the    several    dairy-farms ;    the    cattle 
reared  are   chiefly  of  the    Galloway  breed,    and   about 
1500  are   annually  sold  to   the  cattle-dealers   from   the 
south.     About  9000  sheep  of  the  black-faced  breed,  and 
200  of  the  Cheviot  and  Leicestershire  breeds,  are  annually 
pastured,  on  the  average.     The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £12,425.    Limestone  is  extensively  quarried, 
and  there   are  five   kilns,  at  which   about   20,000  bolls 
of  lime  are  burnt  for  manure  every  year.     The  fishery 
on  the  coast  is  carried  on  with  success  ;  the  chief  fish 
found  here  are,  cod,  whitings,  haddocks,  turbot,  skate, 
and  herrings,  and  lobsters  are  taken  in  abundance,  and 
sent  by  steam  to  Dublin,  where  they  are  in  great  demand. 
Salmon  is  also  found,  in  the  river  Stinchar ;  and  there 
are  several  salmon  pools,    the  rents  of  which,   in  the 
aggregate,    amount     to    £30    per    annum.       The    chief 
seats  of  the  parish  are  Penmore  and  Dalgerrock,  which 
are  of  some  antiquity  ;  and  Knockdolian,  Dhuisk  Lodge, 
Corwar,    Balloehmorie,    and    Drumlamford,    of    recent 
erection,    are    handsome    mansions,    embellished    with 
flourishing  plantations.     The  village,  formerly  consisting 
only  of  a  few  thatched  cottages,  has  been  almost  entirely 
rebuilt  in  a  regular  style  ;   and,  since  the  passing  of  the 
Reform  act,   has   been   a  polling-place  for  the  election 
of  a  member  for   the   county.     A   post-office   has    been 
established  ;  and  fairs  are   held  on  the  first  Monday  in 
February,  May,   August,    and    November    (O.  S.),   and 
three  cattle-markets  at  Barhill,  a  small  hamlet  of  recent' 
origin,  on  the   river   Dhuisk,    on   the  fourth   Friday  in 
April,  September,  and  October  (O.  S.). 


COLO 


C  OL  V 


The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Stranraer  and  synod 
of  Galloway,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Duchess  de 
Coigny.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £256.  18.  9.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum.  The 
church,  erected  in  177*2,  and  repaired  in  1832,  is  a  neat 
substantial  edifice,  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  500 
persons,  but  very  inadequate  to  the  population  of  the 
parish.  A  chapel  of  ease  has  been  erected,  in  which 
the  incumbent  officiates  every  fourth  Sunday,  during 
ten  months  of  the  year  ;  and  there  are  places  of  worship 
for  Reformed  Presbyterians  and  Original  Seceders,  be- 
sides a  Free  church.  The  parochial  schoolmaster  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  with  £26  fees,  a  house  and  garden,  and 
the  half  of  £21.  15.,  the  rent  of  the  farm  of  Little 
Dungart,  bequeathed  by  Dr.  Kennedy,  for  the  gratuitous 
instruction  of  six  poor  scholars.  There  are  some  re- 
mains of  the  ancient  castles  of  Knockdaw,  Carleton, 
Craigneil,  Kirkhill,  Penwherry,  and  Knockdolian.  The 
most  interesting  of  these  are  the  ruins  of  Craigneil, 
supposed  to  have  been  erected  in  the  thirteenth  century, 
and  to  have  been  frequently  visited  by  Robert  Bruce ; 
they  are  situated  on  a  rock,  and  the  castle  was  anciently 
a  prison,  and  a  place  of  execution  for  criminals. 

COLONSAY  and  ORONSAY,  two  islands,  in  the 
parish  of  Jura,  district  of  Islay,  county  of  Argyll, 
15  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Portaskaig  ;  containing  about 
840  inhabitants.  These  islands,  which  are  contiguously 
situated  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  about  twenty  miles  to  the 
west  of  the  isle  of  Jura,  are  supposed  to  have  derived 
their  names  from  St.  Colon  and  St.  Oran,  respectively. 
The  former  saint  founded  a  monastery  for  Culdees,  prior 
to  his  settlement  at  Iona,  and  the  latter  presided  over  a 
priory  of  canons  regular,  founded  by  one  of  the  lords 
of  the  Isles,  as  a  cell  to  the  abbey  of  Holyrood.  The 
islands  are  separated  from  each  other  only  by  a  frith,  in 
some  parts  scarcely  a  hundred  yards  wide,  and  which, 
being  dry  at  the  reflux  of  the  tide,  gives  them  the  appear- 
ance of  one  continuous  island.  Together  they  are  about 
12  miles  in  length,  varying  from  one  mile  to  nearly  four 
miles  in  breadth,  and  comprise  about  11,300  acres,  of 
which  one-third  is  arable  and  meadow,  and  the  remainder 
hill  pasture,  moorland,  and  moss.  The  soil  is  various, 
and  has  been  much  improved  by  the  proprietor,  who 
has  also  reclaimed  considerable  tracts  of  unprofitable 
heath  and  moor,  and  introduced  the  best  system  of  hus- 
bandry. The  chief  crops  are,  potatoes  and  barley,  of 
which  large  quantities  are  sent  to  Islay  for  the  distil- 
leries, and  to  Ireland.  Great  numbers  of  black-cattle 
and  sheep  are  reared  on  the  pastures,  and,  from  the 
attention  paid  to  the  improvement  of  the  breed,  obtain  a 
high  price  in  the  markets  of  Doune  and  Dumbarton,  to 
which  they  are  mostly  sent.  The  plantations  consist 
principally  of  elm,  ash,  sycamore,  and  alder.  The  house 
of  Killoran,  situated  here,  was  built  in  1722,  on  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Culdee  establishment ;  it  is  a  spacious 
mansion,  to  which  two  wings  have  recently  been  added. 
At  Oronsay,  a  handsome  residence  was  built  in  1772. 

There  is  no  village.  Kelp  is  still  manufactured  here, 
affording  employment  to  about  100  persons  during  the 
summer,  and  is  sent  to  Liverpool.  There  are  several 
fishing-stations  on  the  coast,  but  they  are  so  exposed  to 
the  swell  of  the  Atlantic,  that  comparatively  little  benefit 
is  derived  from  them  ;  the  fish  taken  are,  cod,  haddock, 
ling,  skate,  turbot,  flounders,  eels,  and  lobsters  of  large 
size  and  excellent  quality.  The  harbour  of  Portnafea- 
214 


min  affords  secure  shelter,  and  a  substantial  quay  has 
been  erected  by  the  proprietor,  near  which  is  a  good  inn. 
There  is  a  church,  built  by  the  heritors  in  1802,  a  neat 
structure,  containing  400  sittings,  all  of  which  are  free. 
The  minister,  who  is  appointed  by  the  incumbent  of 
Jura,  has  a  stipend  of  £50,  and  a  house  and  garden, 
with  some  land  given  by  the  proprietor  of  Colonsay. 
A  parochial  school  for  teaching  English  and  Gaelic  exists 
here;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £11.2.,  with  £1.  10. 
fees.  Some  portions  remain  of  the  ancient  priory  of 
St.  Oran,  founded  on  the  site  of  a  Culdee  establishment 
supposed  to  have  been  the  first  instituted  by  St.  Columba. 
The  ruins  are  by  far  the  most  interesting  in  the  West 
Highlands,  with  the  exception  only  of  those  of  Iona; 
they  consist  chiefly  of  the  church,  in  which  are  still 
preserved  the  tombs  of  the  ancient  lords,  with  a  portion 
of  the  cloisters  and  conventual  buildings,  and  an  ancient 
cross  with  an  inscription,  of  which  the  words  Hcec  est 
Crux  Colini  Prior  Orisoi  are  still  legible.  There  are  also 
the  ruins  of  a  castle  on  an  island  in  a  lake  near  Colon- 
say  House,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  a  strong- 
hold, or  place  of  retreat  in  times  of  danger.  Sir  John 
McNeill,  G.  C.  B.,  late  envoy  extraordinary  and  minister 
plenipotentiary  to  the  court  of  Persia ;  and  Duncan  Mc 
Neil],  Esq.,  lord-advocate  for  Scotland,  were  natives 
of  the  place. 

COLONSAY,  LITTLE,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Kil- 
ninian,  county  of  Argyll.  It  lies  between  the  islands 
of  Staffa  and  Gometra,  and  has  a  very  few  inhabitants, 
who  feed  some  sheep  on  the  verdure  it  affords.  In 
many  places  are  specimens  of  basaltic  pillars,  similar  to 
those  of  Staffa. 

COLSAY  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Dunrossness, 
county  of  Shetland.  This  is  a  small  islet,  lying  west 
of  the  mainland  of  the  parish,  about  a  mile  south  of  the 
island  of  St.  Ronan's,  and  nearly  double  that  distance 
north  of  Fitfull  Head  ;  and  is  wholly  uninhabited. 

COLTFIELD,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Alves, 
county  of  Elgin,  3  miles  (\V.  by  N.)  from  Elgin ;  con- 
taining 42  inhabitants.  It  lies  near  the  south-eastern 
corner  of  Burgh-Head  bay,  and  on  the  road  between 
Kinloss  and  Duffus. 

COLVEND  and  SOUTHWICK,  a  parish,  in  the 
stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright;  containing  1495  inha- 
bitants, of  whom  875  are  in  Colvend,  18  miles  (E.) 
from  Dumfries.  The  former  of  these  places  is  sup- 
posed to  have  derived  its  name  from  John  de  Culwen, 
its  proprietor  in  the  fifteenth  century,  and  the  latter 
from  the  position  of  its  ancient  church,  now  in  ruins, 
with  reference  to  a  small  river  which  flows  through  the 
parish  into  Solway  Frith.  After  the  dilapidation  of  the 
church  of  Southwick,  that  parish  was  annexed  to  Col- 
vend, with  which  it  has  been  united  from  the  time  of 
the  Reformation.  The  parish  extends  for  about  eight 
miles  from  north-east  to  south-west,  and  is  partly 
bounded  on  the  south-east  by  the  Solway  Frith  ;  the 
breadth  of  the  parish  is  nearly  four  miles,  and  the  river 
Urr  forms  its  south-western  limit.  The  surface  is  ex- 
tremely irregular,  and  is  so  broken  into  detached  por- 
tions by  intervening  masses  of  rock  and  impenetrable 
copses  of  furze  and  briars,  as  to  render  it  unpractica- 
ble  to  ascertain,  with  any  degree  of  correctness,  the 
probable  number  of  acres  under  cultivation.  The  ground 
in  some  parts  rises  into  numerous  hills  of  moderate 
height,  and  in  other  parts,  especially  towards  the  north, 


COMB 


COMR 


into  mountainous  elevation  forming  a  chain  of  heights 
skirting  the  lofty  and  conspicuous  mountain  of  Crif- 
fel.  For  nearly  two  miles  along  the  eastern  coast  the 
surface  is  tolerably  level,  and  divided  into  several  fields 
of  good  arable  land.  The  coast  is  bold  and  rocky,  and 
in  many  places  rises  into  lofty  and  precipitous  cliffs, 
overhanging  the  Frith,  from  which,  at  low  water,  the 
sea  retires,  leaving  a  broad  tract  of  level  sands.  In  the 
crevices  of  these  rocks  is  found  abundance  of  samphire, 
of  which  considerable  quantities  are  collected  with  great 
hazard.  The  Frith  is  about  nine  leagues  in  breadth  at 
this  place  ;  the  river  Urr  is  navigable  for  eight  miles 
from  it,  for  vessels  of  not  more  than  eighty  tons,  and 
the  Southwick  burn  joins  the  Frith  on  the  boundary 
of  the  parish.  The  salmon-fishery  is  carried  on 
upon  a  small  scale,  and  during  the  season  smelts  are 
also  found  ;  cod  is  taken  with  lines  during  the  winter, 
and  flounders,  in  1S34,  were  taken  in  such  numbers 
that  cart-loads  were  distributed  throughout  the  neigh- 
bouring parishes. 

The  soil  is  generally  a  thin  light  loam,  and,  though 
warm  and  fertile,  better  adapted  for  pasture  than  for 
tillage  ;  the  chief  crops  are,  oats  and  barley,  with  pota- 
toes, turnips,  and  clover.  The  system  of  agriculture  is 
improved,  and  much  of  the  previously  unprofitable  waste 
land  has  been  reclaimed.  The  cattle  are  principally  of 
the  Galloway  breed ;  the  sheep  are  the  black- faced,  and 
about  fifty  scores  of  that  kind  are  pastured  on  the  hills. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £6006.  On 
the  estates  of  Fairgirth  and  Barnhourie,  are  consider- 
able tracts  of  ancient  wood ;  and  the  plantations  of 
more  modern  date  are  also  extensive,  and  consist  chiefly 
of  oak  and  Scotch  fir,  both  of  which  are  in  a  thriving 
state.  The  prevailing  rocks  are  granite,  of  which  there 
are  quarries  ;  stone  of  good  quality  for  millstones  is  also 
raised,  and  there  are  evident  indications  of  copper  and 
iron,  but  no  attempt  has  yet  been  made  to  work  either 
of  the  veins.  At  the  mouth  of  the  river  Urr  small 
vessels  are  built,  and  there  is  a  landing-place  for  un- 
loading cargoes  of  lime  and  other  articles,  and  for  ship- 
ping the  agricultural  produce  to  Liverpool,  Glasgow, 
and  other  ports.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  and 
synod  of  Dumfries.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £234.  14.6., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum  ; 
joint  patrons,  the  Crown  and  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch. 
The  church  is  a  plain  structure,  erected  in  1771,  and 
totally  inadequate  to  the  population.  There  is  a  place 
of  worship  for  members  of  the  Secession  Synod.  Paro- 
chial schools  are  supported  at  Colvend  and  Southwick, 
of  which  the  masters  have  each  a  salary  of  £26.  13.'; 
the  former  has  only  fees  averaging  £15,  and  the  latter 
has  a  house  and  garden,  with  fees  amounting  to  £36. 
There  are  numerous  caverns  on  the  shore,  in  one  of 
which,  about  120  yards  in  length,  is  a  well  twenty-two 
feet  deep,  into  which  a  piper  is  supposed  to  have  fallen 
while  attempting  to  explore  the  interior  of  the  cavern  ; 
and  near  it  is  a  detached  portion  of  rock,  formed  natu- 
rally into  an  arch  forty  feet  in  height,  called  the 
Needle's  Eye.  In  one  of  the  clefts  of  the  rocks,  is  a 
strong  chalybeate  spring ;  and  at  Auchenskeoch,  in 
Southwick,  are  the  remains  of  a  large  castellated  build- 
ing of  which  the  history  is  unknown. 

COMBS,  ST.,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Lonmay, 
district  of  Deer,  county  of  Aberdeen,  5  miles  (S.  E.) 
215 


from  Fraserburgh  ;  containing  305  inhabitants.  It  lies 
on  the  eastern  coast,  about  two  miles  to  the  south- 
south-east  of  Cairnbulg  point,  and  is  also  called  St. 
Colm,  a  name  at  different  times  borne  by  the  parish, 
from  the  saint  to  whom  the  old  church  was  dedicated. 
The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  fishermen,  who  have  about 
thirteen  boats  for  the  herring,  and  the  same  number  for 
ordinary  white,  fishing.  On  the  sea-side  near  the  vil- 
lage, originally  stood  the  church.  There  is  a  parochial 
school  here,  of  which  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £28, 
with  £25  from  Dick's  bequest,  and  the  school  fees. 

COMELY-BANK,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Mel- 
rose ;  forming  part  of  the  late  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
Ladhope,  county  of  Roxburgh,  and  containing  157 
inhabitants. 

COMRIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth  ;  in- 
cluding the  villages  of  Dalginross,  St.  Fillan's,  and  Ross, 
and  containing  2471  inhabitants,  of  whom  S03  are  in 
the  village  of  Comrie,  65  miles  (W.)  from  Crieff.  The 
name  is  derived  from  a  Gaelic  term  signifying  "  Con- 
fluence," used  in  this  instance  in  reference  to  the  junc- 
tion of  the  rivers  Earn,  Ruchill,  and  Lednock  near  the 
site  of  the  church  of  Comrie.  The  present  parish  con- 
tains the  ancient  parishes  of  Dundurn  and  Tullichetal, 
with  parts  of  Monivaird,  Strowan,  and  Muthill.  Several 
traces  of  camps  and  fortifications,  some  of  which  have 
been  recently  obliterated  by  the  operations  of  hus- 
bandry, connect  it  with  the  military  enterprises  of  the 
ancient  Romans.  One  of  these  was  visible  in  the  last 
century  at  Dalginross;  and  from  another  which  still 
remains,  and  the  well-known  Roman  roads  which  for- 
merly existed  in  this  locality,  it  is  supposed  that  the 
battle  described  by  Tacitus  as  fought,  between  Agricola 
and  Galgacus,  took  place  on  the  plain  of  Dalginross. 
The  parish  is  about  thirteen  miles  long,  and  ten  broad, 
and  contains  67,122  acres.  It  is  bounded  on  three  sides 
by  lofty  mountains,  the  principal  range  of  which  is  the 
Grampians  :  the  east  opens  on  the  valley  of  Strathearn. 
The  land  is  throughout  diversified  with  mountains  and 
valleys,  with  here  and  there  a  fine  spreading  plain  ;  the 
mountain  Benhonzie  is  2900  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  Ben-Vorlich,  which  is  seen  from  Perth,  Edin- 
burgh, and  Ayrshire,  rises  to  the  height  of  3300  feet. 
The  chief  valleys,  Glenartney  and  Glen-Lednock,  rise 
from  200  to  300  feet,  and  open  on  the  village  of  Comrie. 
The  dryness  of  the  soil,  and  the  protection  afforded 
from  the  winds  by  the  high  range  of  surrounding  moun- 
tains, render  the  climate  mild  and  salubrious  ;  and  the 
scenery  is  little,  if  at  all,  inferior  to  those  parts  most 
distinguished  for  the  union  of  the  picturesque  and 
romantic  with  the  majestic  and  sublime.  The  loch  and 
river  of  Earn,  the  banks  of  which  are  dressed  in  luxu- 
riant verdure,  and  crowned  with  wood,  afford  some  of 
the  beautiful  views  in  the  district.  In  the  rivers,  sal- 
mon, trout,  and  perch  are  found. 

The  soil  is  for  the  most  part  somewhat  gravelly,  but 
well  cultivated  and  fertile ;  clay  is  sometimes  found 
mixed  with  sand,  and  in  several  of  the  glens  the  soil  is 
loamy.  There  are  7097  acres  cultivated  or  occasionally 
in  tillage  ;  55,571  pasture  or  waste;  in  wood,  3139; 
and  common  or  disputed,  1315.  No  wheat  is  grown  ; 
but  oats,  barley,  and  potatoes  are  produced  in  very 
heavy  crops,  especially  if  the  land  has  been  well 
manured.  The  improvements  in  husbandry  are  con- 
siderable, and  a  whole  farm  has  lately  been  reclaimed 


COMR 


C  O  N  T 


by  the  proprietor  of  Dalginross,  and  yields  a  profitable 
return.  The  chief  breed  of  sheep  is  the  black-faced, 
which  has  been  greatly  improved  by  crossing  it  with 
that  of  Crawford-Muir,  in  Dumfries-shire  ;  the  Cheviots 
and  Leicesters  are  also  common.  The  cattle  are  partly 
of  the  Highland  breed,  and  Ayrshire  cows  have  been 
generally  introduced.  There  are  extensive  natural  woods 
of  oak,  ash,  birch,  alder,  and  hazel,  for  the  two  first  of 
which  the  soil  is  especially  adapted  ;  fir  and  larch  have 
been  plauted  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  thrive  well. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £11,700.  The 
predominating  rock  is  mica-slate ;  in  Glen-Lednock 
granite  is  found,  and  in  Glenartuey  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  clay-slate.  In  the  lower  grounds,  as  well  as  in 
Glenartney,  there  is  old  red  sandstone ;  at  Ardvorlich 
marble  has  been  discovered,  and  in  some  places  lead  has 
been  seen  in  small  veins.  Iron-ore  is  plentiful,  and 
from  the  numerous  remains  of  furnaces  for  smelting,  it 
appears  to  have  been  wrought  to  some  extent.  There 
are  three  slate  quarries,  and  several  of  whinstone  ;  also  a 
limestone  quarry,  from  which  large  supplies  are  obtained 
for  agricultural  purposes.  The  chief  mansions  are  those 
of  Dunira,  Ardvorlich,  Dalhonzie,  Aberuchill,  and  Comrie 
House. 

The  village  of  Comrie  is  a  burgh  of  barony,  under  a 
bailie,  and  there  are  several  constables,  one  of  whom 
has  the  charge  of  a  small  lock-up  house.  The  inhabit- 
ants are  employed  to  a  very  considerable  extent  in 
manufactures  ;  there  is  a  woollen-mill,  and  many  per- 
sons are  engaged  in  the  weaving  of  cotton  for  firms  in 
Glasgow  and  Perth.  A  distillery  for  whisky  has  also 
been  established.  Five  fairs  are  held  annually,  in  March, 
May,  July,  November,  and  December  ;  there  is  a  post- 
office  in  the  village,  and  the  turnpike-road  from  Perth 
to  Lochearnhead  passes  through  the  parish.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Auch- 
terarder  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling  ;  the  patronage 
is  exercised  by  the  Crown,  and  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£250,  with  a  manse,  and  two  glebes,  valued  together  at 
£'22  per  annum.  The  church,  erected  in  1S04,  princi- 
pally at  the  instance  of  Viscount  Melville,  is  conve- 
niently situated  in  the  village;  it  is  a  handsome  and 
commodious  edifice,  with  a  spire,  and  contains  1250 
sittings.  At  Dundurn  is  an  ancient  chapel,  in  which 
the  parish  minister  occasionally,  and  his  assistant  regu- 
larly, officiates;  it  was  nearly  rebuilt  in  1834,  by  sub- 
scription, and  will  contain  400  persons.  The  members 
of  the  Free  Church  and  United  Associate  Synod  have 
places  of  worship  ;  and  there  is  also  a  parocial  school, 
the  master  of  which  receives  the  maximum  salary,  with 
about  £45  fees,  a  house  and  garden,  and  teaches  Greek, 
French,  mathematics,  and  the  usual  branches  of  educa- 
tion. The  village  contains  a  parochial  library  of  about 
500  volumes  ;  there  is  also  a  small  circulating  library, 
and  two  friendly  societies  have  been  founded  by  the  inha- 
bitants. Among  the  remains  of  antiquity  in  the  parish 
are  the  ruins  of  several  Druidieal  temples  ;  and  a  highly 
venerated  relic,  also  supposed  to  be  Druidieal,  is  still  pre- 
served, which  is  said  by  antiquaries  to  be  one  of  those 
stones  which  were  used  as  the  official  badge  of  the 
Arch-Druids.  On  the  hill  by  the  village,  is  a  handsome 
monument  to  the  memory  of  the  first  Lord  Melville, 
who  erected  the  beautiful  mansion-house  at  Dunira,  and 
made  it.  his  favourite  residence  in  the  parliamentary 
recess.  The  late  Mr.  Drummond,  under-secretary,  was 
216 


born  in  the  parish,  and  was  heir  to  the  estate  of 
Comrie,  which  was  sold  to  Lord  Melville  during  his 
minority. 

CONANBRIDGE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Urqu- 
hart  and  Logie  Wester,  county  of  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, 3  miles  (S.  by  W.)  from  Dingwall ;  containing 
342  inhabitants.  This  is  a  prosperous  village,  situated 
in  the  vicinity  of  a  bridge  over  the  river  Conan,  and  on 
the  road  between  Inverness  and  Dingwall.  The  bridge 
is  of  five  arches,  with  265  feet  of  water-way,  and  was 
erected  under  the  auspices  of  the  parliamentary  com- 
missioners, by  whom  it  was  approved  in  October,  1809 

CONDORAT,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cumber- 
nauld, county  of  Dumbarton,  2^  miles  (S.  W.)  from 
Cumbernauld  ;  containing  709  inhabitants.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  the  north  side  of  the  river  Logie,  and  on  the 
high  road  from  Glasgow  to  Stirling.  A  part  of  the 
population  is  employed  in  weaving  and  other  manufac- 
tures of  the  district.  A  school  is  aided  by  an  annual 
allowance  from  the  heritors. 

CONNAGE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Petty,  county 
of  Inverness,  a  few  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Inverness; 
containing  97  inhabitants.  This  is  a  small  fishing-place 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Moray  Frith,  and  on  the  road 
from  Inverness  to  Ardersier. 

CONTIN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty', 8  miles  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from  Dingwall  ;  includ- 
ing part  of  the  late  quoad  sacra  districts  of  Carnoch  and 
Kinlochlychart,  and  containing  1770  inhabitants.  The 
origin  of  the  name  of  this  place,  which  is  involved  in 
considerable  obscurity,  is  said  to  be  Gaelic,  the  word 
expressing  the  confluence  of  two  streams  of  water.  The 
Druids  appear  to  have  had  a  residence  here  in  ancient 
times  ;  and  from  its  strong  places,  the  remains  of  which 
are  still  visible,  we  may  conclude  Contin  to  have  been, 
in  after  ages,  the  theatre  of  several  bloody  encounters. 
Indeed,  the  spot  of  Blaf  nan  Ceann,  or  "  the  field  of 
heads,"  derived  its  name  from  a  sanguinary  engagement 
between  the  Mackenzies  of  Seaforth  and  the  Macdonells 
of  Glengarry.  The  parish  is  thirty-three  miles  long, 
and  nearly  of  the  same  breadth  ;  the  surface  is  moun- 
tainous, and  the  scenery  about  the  valleys  and  lakes, 
especially  Loch  Achilty,  is  highly  picturesque.  The 
chief  streams  are,  the  Conan,  the  Meig,  and  the  Rasay, 
which  all  unite  at  Moy,  and  form  one  large  river  that 
takes  the  name  of  Conan,  and  empties  itself  into  Cro- 
marty Frith  not  far  from  the  town  of  Dingwall.  The 
lakes  are  numerous  ;  the  two  most  interesting  are 
Achilty  and  Kinellan,  the  former  of  which  is  famed  for 
its  trout  and  char,  and  the  latter  for  its  artificial  island, 
based  on  piles  of  oak,  and  for  a  distinct  echo.  The 
scenery  of  both  is  delightful. 

The  mountainous  districts  are  used  only  for  pasture, 
but  in  the  valleys,  which  are  chiefly  arable,  the  soil  is 
rich  and  productive.  There  are  several  farms  of  150 
acres  each,  all  cultivated  upon  the  most  improved  system 
of  husbandry ;  a  large  part  of  the  low  land  is  covered 
with  wood,  and  a  few  tracts  are  planted  with  larch  and 
fir.  The  land  has  considerably  increased  in  value  during 
the  last  half  century  ;  in  1792  the  rental  scarcely  reached 
£1400,  whereas  the  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
now  is  £6406.  The  sheep  are  the  black-faced  and  the 
Cheviots,  some  of  which  have  obtained  competition 
prizes,  and  the  cattle  are  of  the  black  Highland  breed. 
The  strata  of  the  parish  are  formed  of  gneiss,  and  some- 


CORR 


CORS 


times  red  sandstone  is  found.  The  principal  mansion 
is  Coul :  Craigdarroch,  within  a  short  distance  of  Loch 
Achilty,  is  surrounded  by  grounds  elegantly  laidout, 
and  commands  a  view  of  interesting  lake  scenery. 
There  is  a  fishery  in  the  Conan  and  Rasay,  in  which  the 
finest  salmon  is  taken  ;  the  profits  are  estimated  at  £40 
a  year.  The  road  to  Lochcarron  passes  through  the 
parish,  and  there  are  several  other  roads  for  particular 
districts.  Fairs  were  held  here,  until  lately,  three  times 
in  the  year,  but  they  have  been  discontinued.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of 
Dingwall  and  synod  of  Ross.  The  patronage  is  exer- 
cised by  the  Crown  ;  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is 
£265,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £16  per 
annum.  The  church,  the  date  of  which  is  uncertain, 
has  strong  marks  of  having  been  built  long  prior  to  the 
Reformation  ;  it  underwent  considerable  repairs  some 
years  ago,  but  is  still  an  inconvenient  and  uncomfort- 
able building.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which 
the  ordinary  branches  of  education  are  taught,  with 
the  classics  and  mathematics  if  required  ;  the  master's 
salary  is  £30,  with  from  £8  to  £10  fees.  Another 
school  is  supported  by  the  Society  for  Propagating 
Christian  Knowledge,  and  a  third  by  the  Inverness 
Education  Society.  The  chief  relics  of  antiquity  are 
the  remains  of  a  Druidical  temple  at  the  border  of  Loch 
Achilty.  On  the  estate  of  Hilton,  are  several  chalybeate 
springs  of  strong  power. 

COPAY  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Harris,  county  of 
Inverness,  2  miles  (S.  W.)  from  the  isle  of  Lewis.  It 
lies  in  the  Sound  of  Harris,  and  is  of  small  extent,  and 
uninhabited. 

COPINSHAY,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Deer- 
ness,  county  of  Orkney;  containing  13  inhabitants. 
It  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  half  a 
mile  in  breadth,  lying  about  three  miles  directly  east- 
ward of  the  mainland,  and  contains  some  good  ground, 
both  arable  and  pasture.  The  height  of  the  perpen- 
dicular rock  on  the  east  side  of  it  is  300  feet,  and  there 
is  a  large  rock  called  the  Horse  of  Copinshay  on  the 
north-east,  about  200  feet  high,  and  distant  half  a  mile. 
Both  of  these  rocks  are  covered  with  immense  numbers 
of  sea-fowl  in  the  spring  and  summer  months  ;  and  at 
the  period  when  they  deposit  their  eggs  and  hatch  their 
young,  if  a  gun  be  fired  from  a  boat  below,  the  birds, 
alarmed  by  the  report,  fly  from  their  nests  in  such 
myriads  as  to  darken  the  air  for  some  extent  around. 
They  are  principally  maws,  nories,  scarfs,  auks,  and 
kittyauks. 

CORNCAIRN,  a  village  and  burgh  of  barony,  in  the 
parish  of  Ordiquhill,  county  of  Banff,  6  miles  (S.) 
from  Portsoy  ;  containing  94  inhabitants.  This  place 
is  situated  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cornhill,  a  village 
on  the  road  from  Huntly  to  Banff,  where  several  annual 
fairs  and  cattle-markets  are  held,  the  latter  well  known 
as  the  "  Cornhill  markets." 

CORRIE,  a  village,  in  the  Isle  of  Arran,  parish  of 
Kilbride,  county  of  Bute;  containing  222  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  island,  about 
three  miles  and  a  half  north  of  Brodick  bay  and  castle. 
There  is  a  small  harbour,  with  a  quay,  but  it  is  only 
accessible  to  vessels  at  high  water.  A  school  has  been 
established  in  the  village. 

CORRIE,  county  of  Dumfries. — See  Hutton  and 
Corrie. 

Vol.  I.— 217 


CORSOCK,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Parton, 
stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  9  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from 
New  Galloway  ;  containing  38  inhabitants.  It  lies  in 
the  eastern  confines  of  the  parish,  near  the  Urr  water, 
and  south  of  the  high  road  from  New  Galloway  to 
Dumfries. 

CORSTORPHINE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Edin- 
burgh ;  including  the  village  of  Gogar,  and  containing 
1551  inhabitants,  of  whom  3/2  are  in  the  village  of 
Corstorphine,  4  miles  (w.)  from  Edinburgh,  on  the 
road  to  Glasgow.  This  place,  of  which  the  name  is  of 
uncertain  origin,  "appears  to  have  been,  from  a  very 
early  period,  the  property  and  residence  of  families  of 
distinction,  of  whom  David  le  Mareschall  held  posses- 
sion of  it  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  II.  The  estate  sub- 
sequently became  the  property,  in  13*6,  of  Adam  For- 
rester, ancestor  of  the  lords  Forrester,  and  who,  in 
1373,  was  provost  of  Edinburgh,  and,  in  1390,  was 
made  keeper  of  the  great  seal  by  Robert  III.,  who  em- 
ployed him  in  frequent  embassies  to  England.  In  1446, 
the  castle  of  Corstorphine  was  destroyed,  and  the  lands 
laid  waste,  by  Chancellor  Crichton  and  his  military 
vassals,  in  retaliation  of  a  similar  outrage  on  his  castle 
of  Brankstoun,  by  Sir  John  Forrester  and  Sir  William 
Douglas.  In  1572,  the  castle  was  garrisoned  by  the 
Earl  of  Mar,  regent  of  the  kingdom,  with  a  view  to 
prevent  the  sending  of  supplies  to  the  castle  of  Edin- 
burgh, at  that  time  held  for  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  by 
William  Kirkaldy  of  Grange.  In  1650,  General  Leslie 
drew  up  his  forces  on  the  meadows  to  the  east  of  the 
village,  to  check  the  proceedings  of  Cromwell,  whose 
army  was  posted  on  the  Pentland  hills.  Cromwell,  in 
order  to  force  him  to  an  engagement,  advanced  for  the 
purpose  of  interposing  a  body  of  men  between  him  and 
Linlithgow;  but  Leslie,  marching  westward  from  his 
former  position,  intrenched  his  forces  on  the  field  of 
Gogar,  and  his  opponent,  finding  it  impracticable  to  dis- 
lodge him  in  consequence  of  the  marshy  nature  of  the 
ground,  retreated,  after  a  sharp  skirmish,  to  Mussel- 
burgh. Cromwell,  however,  afterwards  took  possession 
of  this  place  ;  and  his  forces,  in  retaliation  of  the  oppo- 
sition they  had  experienced  from  Lord  Forrester,  muti- 
lated the  tombs  and  monuments  of  that  family  in  the 
church,  the  interior  of  which  they  nearly  destroyed,  and 
utterly  laid  waste  the  surrounding  lands. 

The  parish,  which  includes  part  of  the  ancient  parish 
of  Gogar,  with  the  lands  of  Ravelston  and  Saughton, 
detached  from  the  parish  of  St.  Cuthbert  in  1633,  con- 
tains about  2650  acres,  exclusively  of  plantations,  roads, 
and  waste.  The  surface,  which  is  generally  level,  is 
diversified  with  a  gentle  elevation  near  the  village,  and, 
towards  the  north-east,  by  the  beautiful  hill  of  Corstor- 
phine, which  rises  to  a  height  of  474  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  is  clothed  to  its  very  summit  with  rich  plantations. 
The  streams  in  the  parish,  are  the  Leith  water  and 
Gogar  burn,  of  which  the  former  flows  through  the 
eastern  portion  of  the  lands,  and  the  latter  into  the 
river  Almond.  The  soil  is  in  general  fertile,  producing 
abundant  crops,  and  the  meadows  and  pastures  are 
luxuriant;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  highly  im- 
proved state,  and  around  the  village  are  large  tracts  of 
garden  ground,  from  which  great  quantities  of  fruit  are 
sent  to  Edinburgh.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £9964.  On  Corstorphine  Hill  are  several 
quarries   of  fine  freestone,   from  which  were   taken   the 

2  F 


CO  R  S 


C  O  RT 


materials  for  the  erection  of  the  Parliament  House, 
Heriot's  hospital,  and  various  other  public  buildings ; 
but  they  have  for  many  years  been  abandoned,  with  the 
exception  of  one  which  has  recently  been  drained.  There 
are  also  some  quarries  of  blue  whinstone  in  the  parish. 

On  the  acclivity  of  Corstorphine  Hill  is  Ravelston 
House,  and  around  its  base  are  many  noble  mansions, 
among  which  are  Beechwood  and  Belmont.  Within 
the  parish  are  also,  Saughton  House,  Clermiston,  and 
Gogar.  The  village  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  base 
of  the  hill,  on  a  slight  elevation  above  the  meadows  on 
either  side,  and  was  for  many  years  a  favourite  resort 
of  the  citizens  of  Edinburgh,  of  whom,  many  made  it 
their  summer  residence.  Near  it  was,  till  lately,  a 
slightly  sulphureous  spring,  which,  in  1749,  was  in  such 
high  repute  that  a  stage  coach  was  established  for  the 
conveyance  of  visiters,  making  nine  journeys  daily 
between-  this  place  and  Edinburgh.  A  small  pump- 
room  was  erected  over  the  w«ll,  by  one  of  tire  Dick 
family  ;  but  it  was  suffered  to  fall  into  decay,  and  by 
the  sinking  of  a  ditch  near  the  spot  within  the  last  few 
years,  the  spring  has  entirely  disappeared.  The  village 
of  Stanhope-Mills,  on  the  lands  of  Saughton,  contains 
an  ancient  house,  over  the  doorway  of  which  are  the 
armorial  bearings  of  Patrick  Elphingston,  with  his 
initials  and  the  date  1623;  and  one  of  the  rooms,  of 
which  the  roof  is  richly  ornamented,  has  on  the  wall 
the  royal  arms,  with  the  initials  C.  R.  II. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Edinburgh  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  minister  has  a  stipend  of 
£242,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £30  per 
annum ;  patron,  Sir  Robert  Keith  Dick,  Bart.  The 
church,  which  was  formerly  collegiate,  was  founded  in 
1429,  and  dedicated  to  St.  John  the  Baptist,  by  Sir  John 
Forrester,  who  endowed  it  for  a  provost,  five  preben- 
daries, and  two  choristers.  It  is  a  venerable  cruciform 
structure  in  the  later  English  style,  with  a  handsome 
tower  and  spire,  and,  notwithstanding  the  mutilation  it 
suffered  from  Cromwell's  soldiers,  retains  much  of  its  ori- 
ginal character  and  beauty.  The  roof  is  plainly  groined, 
and  is  supported  by  ranges  of  clustered  columns  with 
richly- moulded  arches  and  ornamented  capitals ;  there 
are  numerous  monuments  of  the  Forrester  family,  whose 
recumbent  effigies  are  finely  sculptured,  and  various  other 
ancient  tombs.  A  small  portion  of  the  church  of  Gogar 
is  still  remaining,  and  has  been  converted  into  a  sepul- 
chral chapel  by  the  proprietor  of  the  lands.  At  the  east 
end  of  Corstorphine  church,  a  lamp  was  formerly  kept 
burning  to  guide  the  traveller,  for  the  maintenance  of 
which  an  acre  of  land  near  Coltsbridge,  thence  called  the 
Lamp  Acre,  was  allotted,  and  now  forms  an  endowment 
for  the  parish  schoolmaster.  There  is  a  place  of  wor- 
ship for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  The  parochial 
school  is  attended  by  about  seventy  scholars  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the 
acre  of  land  before  noticed  ;  the  fees  average  about  £20. 
The  poor's  fund  is  about  £450,  arising  from  bequests. 
On  the  taking  down  of  the  remains  of  Corstorphine 
Castle,  towards  the  close  of  the  last  century,  a  large 
number  of  gold  and  silver  coins  were  found ;  and  on 
the  erection  of  Gogar  House  in  1811,  several  remains  of 
Roman  antiquity  were  discovered,  consisting  of  a  dagger 
with  part,  of  the  scabbard,  a  fibula,  and  a  gold  ring  of 
very  slender  substance.  Numerous  stone  coffins  have 
218 


been  found  at  various  times  on  the  lands  of  Gogar,  and 
the  spot  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  original  place  of 
sepulture  of  the  ancient  parish,  or  not  improbably  the 
site  of  General  Leslie's  encampment,  where  bodies  of  the 
slain  were  interred. 

CORTACHY  and  CLOVA,  a  parish,  in  the  county 
of  Forfar,  4  miles  (N.)  from  Kirriemuir;  containing 
867  inhabitants.  The  former  of  these  ancient  parishes, 
which  were  united  in  1608,  is  supposed  to  have  derived 
its  name,  anciently  Quartachie,  from  a  Gaelic  term 
descriptive  of  the  situation  of  its  church  and  castle  in  a 
small  valley  surrounded  with  elevated  lands.  The  name 
of  the  latter  parish  is  of  very  uncertain  derivation.-  The 
barony  of  Cortachy  belonged,  at  a  very  early  period,  to 
the  family  of  Ogilvy,  ancestors  of  the  earls  of  Airlie, 
and  whose  baronial  castle  here  has,  for  many  generations, 
been  their  chief  seat,  and  is  still  the  residence  of  the 
present  earl.  The  district  of  Cortachy  is  about  ten 
miles  in  length,  and  nearly  four  in  average  breadth,  of 
somewhat  triangular  form,  narrow  at  the  southern  extre- 
mity, where  it  is  bounded  by  the  confluence  of  the  rivers 
South-Esk  and  Prosen,  and  comprising  about  23,700 
acres.  Clova,  which  is  nearly  of  equal  length,  and 
varying  from  two  to  almost  four  miles  in  breadth,  is  situ- 
ated to  the  north-west  of  Cortachy,  and  comprises  an 
area,  of  19,000  acres,  making  a  total  in  the  whole  parish 
of  nearly  43,000  acres,  of  which  about  3540  are  arable, 
1000  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder 
mountain  pasture  and  waste. 

..  The  surface  is  boldly  diversified,  and  embellished 
with  features  of  picturesque  beauty  and  majestic  gran- 
deur in  striking  contrast.  The  southern  portion  of 
Cortachy  is  chiefly  mountainous,  and  forms  part  of  one 
of  the  Grampian  ranges,  extending  nearly  through  the  en- 
tire length  of  the  district,  and  declining  on  the  south  and 
south-west  towards  the  river  Prosen,  and  on  the  north 
and  north-east  towards  the  South  Esk.  Opposite  to  this 
mountainous  range  is  another  of  greater  elevation,  stretch- 
ing through  the  whole  of  the  parish  ;  and  between  them 
are  the  beautiful  and  richly-cultivated  vales  of  Wateresk 
and  Clova.  The  latter  vale  on  the  north,  is  divided  by  a 
lofty  mountain  into  two  narrow  glens,  of  which  one  takes 
a  north-west,  and  the  other  a  south-western  direction. 
From  these  glens,  the  adjacent  mountains  appear  in  all 
their  towering  grandeur,  varying  in  height  from  1500  to 
more  than  3000  feet,  and  presenting  a  combination  of 
bold  and  precipitous  masses  of  barren  rock,  immense 
heights,  covered  to  their  very  summits  with  various  kinds 
of  grasses,  and  hills  of  stupendous  elevation,  affording 
excellent  pasturage  for  cattle  and  sheep.  The  river  South 
Esk  has  one  of  its  sources  in  the  lake  of  that  name,  and 
another,  of  still  greater  power,  in  the  mountain  rivulet 
of  Falfearnie  ;  it  flows  through  the  parish  for  nearly 
twenty  miles,  receiving  in  its  course  numerous  tributary 
streams,  among  which  is  the  Whitewater.  Loch  Esk, 
situated  among  the  mountains,  six  miles  to  the  north- 
west of  the  vale  of  Clova,  is  about  half  a  mile  in  cir- 
cumference, of  comparatively  inconsiderable  depth,  and 
surrounded  with  scenery  rather  of  bleak  and  rugged 
character.  Loch  Wharral,  in  the  heart  of  the  moun- 
tainous district  at  the  north-eastern  boundary  of  the 
parish,  and  about  1000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Esk, 
is  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  of  very  considerable 
depth.  About  two  miles  to  the  north-east  of  Loch 
Wharral,  is  Loch  Brany,  on  the  same  side  of  the  moun- 


C  O  R  T 


COUL 


tain  range,  and  nearly  at  a  similar  elevation  ;  it  is  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  in  circumference,  and  in  some  parts 
of  great  depth.  These  lakes  abound  with  trout,  and 
many  are  also  found  in  the  river,  of  large  size  and  good 
flavour,  as  are  sea  trout  during  the  summer,  Salmon, 
too,  are  found  in  the  Esk,  towards  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember. 

The  soil  is  very  various.  The  greater  portion  of  that 
in  the  arable  lands  is.  sharp  and  gravelly,  inclining  in 
some  parts  to  a  fertile  loam,  and  in  others  to  a  thin 
stony  sand.  In  the  southern  districts  of  the  parish  it  is 
much  mixed  with  clay,  and  along  the  bases  of  the  hills, 
partly  a  fine  deep  mould,  and  partly  hard  and  stony, 
alternated  with  moss.  In  the  valleys  there  is  a  rich 
deposit  of  alluvial  soil,  inclining  to  sand,  with  alterna- 
tions of  moss,  and  in  other  parts  a  deep  sandy  loam. 
The  principal  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  turnips,  and 
potatoes  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  improved,  and  the 
rotation  plan  of  husbandry  is  generally  practised.  Great 
attention  is  paid  to  the  management  of  live  stock  ;  the 
cattle  chiefly  reared  are  the  Angus  breed,  of  middling 
size,  and  generally  disposed  of  when  two  or  three  years 
old.  The  mountains  afford  pasture  for  great  numbers  of 
sheep,  which  are  mostly  of  the  black-faced  and  Cheviot 
breeds ;  and  in  addition  to  those  reared  in  the  parish, 
great  numbers  are  bought  when  young,  and  fed  till  three 
or  four  years  old,  when  they  are  sold  at  high  prices. 
The  woods  consist  of  oak,  ash,  mountain-ash,  elm,  plane, 
beech,  chesnut,  alder,  and  birch  ;  and  the  plantations,  of 
larch,  and  Scotch,  spruce,  white  and  black  American,  and 
silver'  firs.  Much  attention  is  paid  to  pruning  and 
thinning  at  proper  times,  especially  on  the  lands  of  the 
Earl  of  Airlie,  to  whom  the  gold  medal  of  the  Highland 
Society  was  adjudged  in  1830,  for  his  extensive  improve- 
ments. The  rocks  are  of  red  sandstone,  pudding-s_tone, 
whinstone,  serpentine,  mica-schist,  gneiss,  clay-slate, 
quartz,  and  granite  ;  limestone  is  also  found,  but  unless 
taken  from  a  considerable  depth,  is  not  of  very  good 
quality.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£3S87. 

Cortachy  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  earl,  is  a  spacious  and 
ancient  structure  with  modern  additions,  beautifully  situ- 
ated in  a  small  valley  on  the  south  side  of  the  river 
Esk  :  the  date  of  the  more  ancient  part,  and  the  name  of 
the  original  founder,  are  both  unknown.  Of  the  castle  of 
Clova  but  little  remains  ;  it  is  said  to  have  been  destroyed 
by  Cromwell,  during  the  parliamentary  war.  Facility  of 
communication  with  the  neighbouring  towns  is  afforded  by 
good  roads,  of  which  that  to  Strathmore  passes  through 
the  whole  length  of  the  parish.  Fairs  for  cattle  and 
sheep  are  held  on  the  farm  of  Collovv,  on  the  last  Friday 
in  April,  and  fourth  Monday  in  October ;  the  latter  is 
one  of  the  largest  sheep  markets  in  the  country,  and  the 
number  of  sheep  sold  is  generally  from  8000  to  12,000. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Forfar  and  synod  of 
Angus  and  Mearns.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £172.  19., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum  ; 
patron,  the  Earl  of  Airlie.  The  present  church  of 
Cortachy,  situated  near  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
parish,  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the  former  edifice,  in 
1829,  by  the  earl,  at  an  expense  of  £2000  ;  it  is  a  hand- 
some structure,  containing  550  sittings,  all  of  which 
are  free.  The  church  of  Clova,  about  ten  miles  distant 
from  that  of  Cortachy,  is  an  ancient  structure,  repaired 
"219 


and  enlarged  by  the  erection  of  a  gallery  in  1731,  and 
recently  repewed.  It  contains  250  sittings,  all  of  which 
are  free,  except  the  gallery,  which  is  let  for  the  benefit  of 
the  poor.  Near  it  is  a  good  house  for  a  missionary, 
who  officiates  alternately  in  this  church  and  the  chapel 
of  Glenprosen,  and  who  has  a  regular  stipend  of  £30 
from  Royal  Bounty,  £30  from  the  inhabitants,  and 
£21  from  the  Earl  of  Airlie.  The  parochial  school  is 
situated  near  the  church  of  Cortachy  ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  about  £15.  The  parochial  library  has  a  collec- 
tion of  200  volumes,  chiefly  the  gift  of  the  earl  and 
countess. 

COT-TOWN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  St:  Madoes, 
county  of  Perth  ;  containing  62  inhabitants.  It  is  one 
of  the  only  two  small  hamlets  in  the  parish  :  in  its 
vicinity  is  a  sandstone  quarry. 

COTTACK,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dunscore, 
county  of  Dumfries,  9  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Dumfries; 
containing.  252  inhabitants.  This  village  is  built  on 
ele-vattd  ground,  and  is  very  centrally  situated,  being 
nearly  equidistant  from  the  tvvo  extremes  of  the  parish ; 
the  population  consists  of  agricultural  labourers  and  a 
few  artisans  and  mechanics.  The  Cairn,  a  considerable 
stream,  tributary. to  the  Nith,  and  in  which  fine  trout 
are  obtained,  passes  to  the  west  of  the  village.  Here  is 
the  parish  church,  and  one  of  the  three  parochial 
schools. 

COTTON  OF  LOWNIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Dunnichen,  county  of  Forfar,  3  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from 
Forfar;  containing  100  inhabitants.  It  is  seated  a  little 
south  of  the  road  from  Forfar  to  Dunnichen,  and  about 
a  mile  south-west  of  the  latter  village. 

COULL,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kincardine 
O'Neil,  county  of  Aberdeen,  2f  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from 
Tarland ;  containing  744  inhabitants.  This  place  is 
supposed  to  have  taken  its  name,  which  signifies  a 
"  corner,"  from  its  situation  in  the  south-eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  district  of  Cromar.  The  parish  measures 
six  miles  in  average  length,  and  three  in  breadth,  com- 
prising about  7620  acres,  of  which  2300  are  arable  ; 
5000  are  uncultivated  pasture ;  nearly  100  of  these, 
however,  being  capable  of  profitable  cultivation  ;  and 
320  acres  are  under  wood,  chiefly  planted  within  the 
last  twenty  years.  The  surface  is  level  to  a  consider- 
able extent,  especially  in  the  centre,  where  is  a  marshy 
tract  called  Bogmore ;  there  are,  however,  several  por- 
tions of  high  land,  and  between  this  parish  and  those  of 
Aboyne  and  Lumphanan,  stretches  a  mountain  range 
containing  the  peaks  called  the  hill  of  Gellan,  Mort- 
lich,  Leadhlich,  and  the  hill  of  Corse.  The  soil  in  the 
low  grounds  is  generally  of  good  quality,  and  compre- 
hends a  large  portion  of  rich  loam,  resting  on  a  gravelly 
subsoil ;  but  on  the  hills  it  only  affords  indifferent  pas- 
ture. Great  improvements  in  agriculture  have  been 
effected  during  the  last  twenty  years,  especially  on  the 
estate  of  Corse,  where  almost  every  thing  has  been 
done  which  could  contribute  to  change  its  neglected 
appearance,  and  increase  the  value  of  the  property, 
which  is  now  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  desirable  in 
the  county.  In  other  parts  of  the  district,  much  land 
has  been  brought  into  cultivation  ;  draining  and  inclos- 
ing have  been  successfully  practised,  and  the  larger  part 
of  Bogmore,  formerly  so  prejudicial  to  the  climate  of 
the  locality,  has  been  partly  converted  into  pasture,  and 

2  F  2 


C  O  V  I 


COWI 


partly  into  arable  land.  In  the  process  of  draining  the 
ground,  which  was  an  alluvial  deposit  incumbent  on 
moss,  fragments  of  immense  oaks  were  found  imbedded. 
The  rocks  in  the  hills  are  chiefly  red  and  white  granite. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2197-  The 
knitting  of  stockings  is  carried  on,  and  there  is  a  wool- 
carding  mill,  at  which  blankets  and  coarse  woollen- 
cloths  are  manufactured.  The  parish  was  formerly 
attached  to  the  abbey  of  Arbroath,  but  is  now  in  the 
presbytery  of  Kincardine  O'Neil  and  synod  of  Aberdeen, 
and  in  the  patronage  of  Sir  John  Forbes,  Bart.,  of  Crai- 
gievar.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £161.  5.  7-,  of  which 
about  half  is  received  from  the  exchequer,  with  a 
manse,  built  in  1S32,  and  a  glebe  of  four  acres,  valued 
at  £7  per  annum.  The  church  is  a  plain  building, 
erected  in  1792  ;  it  has  a  good-toned  bell,  of  consider- 
able size,  cast  in  Holland  in  the  year  1644,  and  pre- 
sented by  Mr.  Ross,  of  Mill  of  Coull.  A  large  portion 
of  the  parish  has  long  been  annexed,  for  ecclesiastical 
purposes,  to  the  parish  of  Leochel  and  Cushnie.  The 
parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £26,  with  about  £15  fees,  and 
£40  from  the  Dick  bequest.  The  ruins  of  the  castle  of 
Corse,  erected  in  1581,  by  William  Forbes,  father  of 
Bishop  Patrick  Forbes,  are  still  to  be  seen  ;  and  there- 
mains  ofthatof  Coull  are  also  visible,  on  a  rocky  eminence 
near  the  church.  This  ancient  structure,  the  seat  of  the 
Durwards,  a  family  of  great  power,  was  of  quadrangular 
form,  with  large  hexagonal  towers  at  the  angles,  the 
whole  surrounded  by  a  fosse,  and  appears  to  have  been 
a  fortification  of  considerable  extent  and  strength.  On 
the  summit  of  a  small  hill  is  a  Druidical  circle,  and 
traces  of  a  chapel  called  Turry  Chapel,  yet  remain  on 
the  lands  of  Corse. 

COUPAR-ANGUS,  Forfarshire.— See  Cupar- 
Angus. 

COVE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Nigg,  county  of 
Kincardine,  5  miles  (S.  S.  E.)  from  Aberdeen  ;  con- 
taining 421  inhabitants.  This  place,  which  is  situated 
on  the  shore  of  the  North  Sea,  derives  its  name  from 
one  of  those  numerous  small  bays  or  coves  with  which 
the  coast  is  here  indented,  and  is  inhabited  by  persons 
employed  in  the  fisheries.  The  fish  taken  are  chiefly 
salmon,  white-fish  of  various  kinds,  and  lobsters,  crabs, 
and  other  shell-fish.  The  salmon  are  caught  in  bag- 
nets,  and  are  packed  in  ice,  and  sent  to  the  London 
market ;  and  during  the  season,  nine  boats,  varying 
from  ten  to  fourteen  tons'  burthen,  with  crews  of  six 
men  each,  are  engaged  in  the  herring-fishery  off  the 
north  coast.  The  cove,  which  forms  a  small  natural 
harbour,  affords  sufficient  shelter  for  the  boats  belonging 
to  the  place.  A  school  has  been  established  for  the 
accommodation  of  this  distant  portion  of  the  parish  ; 
the  master  has  a  house  and  garden,  with  £7  from  a 
bequest,  in  addition  to  the  fees,  which  average  £15. 

COVINGTON  and  THANKESTON,  a  parish,  in  the 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  4  miles  (W.  by  N.) 
from  Biggar ;  containing  523  inhabitants.  Of  these  an- 
cient parishes,  which  were  united  about  the  beginning  of 
the  18th  century,  the  former  derives  its  name,  anciently 
Colbanstoun,  from  its  proprietor  Colban,  in  the  12th  cen- 
tury ;  and  the  latter,  from  a  Flemish  settler  namedTankard 
or  Thankard,  who  obtained  a  grant  of  lands  here  during 
the  reign  of  Malcolm  IV.  The  parish  is  about  four 
miles  in  length,  from  south  to  north,  and  nearly  three 
220 


in  average  breadth,  and  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the 
river  Clyde,  which  separates  it  from  the  parish  of 
Libberton.  The  number  of  acres  is  about  5500,  of 
which  nearly  2000  are  arable,  80  acres  woodland  and 
plantations,  and  the  remainder  sheep  pasture.  The 
surface  is  varied,  and  the  scenery  in  many  parts  of 
pleasing  character.  The  soil  along  the  banks  of  the 
Clyde  is  rich  and  fertile,  and  the  lands  occasionally 
subject  to  inundation  ;  in  the  higher  grounds  are  some 
portions  of  barren  heath,  but  they  generally  afford 
good  pasturage  to  numerous  flocks  of  sheep.  The 
system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  improved  state ;  the 
chief  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  peas,  potatoes,  and  tur- 
nips. The  lands  have  been  much  benefited  by  furrow- 
draining  ;  considerable  progress  has  been  made  in 
inclosing  the  several  farms,  and  the  farm-buildings 
and  offices  are  in  a  very  superior  condition.  The 
cattle  are  chiefly  of  the  Angus  breed,  and  the  sheep 
of  the  black-faced  kind.  There  is  but  little  wood  in 
the  parish,  and  much  improvement  might  be  made, 
both  in  the  appearance  of  the  lands  and  in  affording 
shelter,  by  a  judicious  increase  of  plantation.  The 
Clyde  abounds  with  trout  and  pike  of  considerable 
size.  The  villages  of  Covington  and  Thankeston  are 
pleasantly  situated,  and  at  the  latter  is  a  bridge  over 
the  Clyde,  which  was  erected  by  subscription,  in  1778. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Biggar  and  synod 
of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£208.  13.  7-j  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£17-  10.  ;  patrons  alternately,  Sir  Norman  Lockhart, 
Bart.,  and  Sir  Windham  Anstruther.  The  church  of 
Thankeston  has  been  suffered  to  fall  into  ruins,  and 
that  of  Covington  has  been  enlarged  for  the  population 
of  the  whole  parish.  The  parochial  school  is  in  the 
village  of  Covington  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £28, 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about 
£16  per  annum. 

COWCADDENS,  a  village,  in  the  late  ecclesiastical 
district  of  St.  Stephen's,  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
city  of  Glasgow,  county  of  Lanark,  §  a  mile  (N.) 
from  Glasgow.  This  is  a  populous  village,  till  lately 
forming,  with  Port-Dundas  and  Woodside,  one  of  the 
divisions  recently  separated  from  Barony  parish.  It 
is  chiefly  occupied  by  persons  employed  in  hand- 
loom  weaving,  and  in  the  various  factories  in  the 
vicinity  of  Glasgow.  There  are  five  schools,  of  which 
one  is  in  connexion  with  the  Roman  Catholics,  and 
two  are  female  schools. 

COWDEN-BEATH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Beath,  district  of  Dunfermline,  county  of  Fife,  5  a 
mile  (S.  E.)  from  Beath ;  containing  127  inhabitants. 
It  is  in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  parish,  a  short 
distance  west  of  the  road  from  Aberdour  to  Kinross. 

COWIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Fetteresso, 
county  of  Kincardine,  1  mile  (N.)  from  Stonehaven ; 
containing  174  inhabitants.  This  village  is  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river  Cowie,  which  falls  into  a  bay  of 
that  name,  forming  a  small  and  commodious  harbour; 
and  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  fishermen,  who,  during  the 
season,  are  also  engaged  in  the  herring-fisheries  on  the 
coast.  The  principal  fish  taken  here  are  haddocks, 
of  which  great  numbers  are  cured,  and  sent  by  the 
Aberdeen  steamers  to  the  London  market ;  cod,  ling, 
and   various  other  fish  are    also    found  in  abundance. 


COYL 


CO  YL 


Eight  boats  are  employed,  each  having  a  crew  of  five 
men.  On  the  summit  of  a  rock  overlooking  the  bay, 
are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  castle  which,  upon  very 
doubtful  authority,  is  supposed  by  some  writers  to  have 
been  originally  built  bjr  Malcolm  Canmore. 

COWPITS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Inveresk, 
county  of  Edinburgh  ;  containing  116  inhabitants.  It 
is  one  of  a  few  small  villages  in  the  parish,  chiefly 
occupied  by  colliers. 

COWSLAND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cranston, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  3  miles  (E.  N.  E.)  from  Dalkeith  j 
containing  226  inhabitants.  It  is  a  neat  village,  situ- 
ated in  the  northern  part  of  the  parish,  on  the  road 
from  Dalkeith  to  Ormiston.  In  the  neighbourhood  are 
some  limestone  quarries  ;  and  to  the  east  of  the  village 
is  Cowsland  Park.  A  school-house  is  furnished  to  a 
teacher  by  the  families  in  the  vicinity. 

COYLTON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ayr,  5  miles 
(S.  E.)  from  Ayr  ;  containing,  with  the  villages  of  Craig- 
hall,  Gadgirth-holm  and  Bankfoot,  Joppa,  and  Knock- 
shaggle-holm,  1484  inhabitants.  This  place,  the  name 
of  which  is  of  uncertain  derivation,  was  augmented, 
about  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century,  by  the  quoad 
sacra  annexation  of  a  portion  of  land,  lying  on  the 
north  and  east  sides  of  the  river  Coyl,  and  then  in- 
cluded in  the  parish  of  Ochiltree.  It  measures  twelve 
miles  in  extreme  length,  and  nearly  two  in  average 
breadth,  and  comprises  11,515  acres,  of  which  more 
than  8000  are  cultivated,  nearly  S00  under  wood,  con- 
sisting chiefly  of  forest  trees,  and  the  remainder  in 
pasture.  The  river  Ayr  flows  for  nearly  four  miles 
along  its  north-west  boundary,  separating  it  from 
Tarbolton  and  St.  Quivox  ;  and  from  this  stream  the 
surface  rises  south-easterly,  in  a  series  of  undulations, 
to  the  heights  called  the  Craigs  of  Coyl,  attaining  an 
elevation  of  750  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  After 
this,  the  land  advances  to  a  loftier  ridge,  forming  the 
boundary  line  in  this  direction,  and  commanding,  from 
an  elevation  of  1100  feet,  an  extensive  and  richly  diver- 
sified prospect  oh  all  sides.  The  scenery  is  much 
improved  by  the  lochs  named  Martnaham,  Snipe,  and 
Fergus,  the  first  of  which,  partly  in  the  parish  of  Dal- 
rymple,  is  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  about  a  furlong 
broad,  abounding  in  pike,  perch,  and  eels,  and  much 
frequented  by  wild-ducks,  geese,  widgeon,  teal,  and 
other  water-fowl.  Loch  Fergus,  a  fine  piece  of  water 
extending  over  about  twenty-five  acres,  contains  a  well- 
wooded  island,  said  to  have  been  in  ancient  times  the 
seat  of  a  monastery,  and  is  supposed  by  some  to  have 
taken  its  name  from  King  Fergus,  who  defeated  Coilus, 
king  of  the  Britons,  in  the  adjacent  fields.  There  is 
also  a  lake  called  Loch  End,  which  covers  about  three 
acres  ;  and  in  most  of  the  lakes  fish  of  the  usual  kinds 
is  found,  as  well  as  in  the  rivers,  which  are  also  well 
stocked  with  yellow  trout.  The  river  Coyl,  which  rises 
in  the  parish,  displays  a  beautiful  cascade  in  the  vici- 
nity of  Sundrum  Castle,  where  the  river  is  about  twenty- 
five  feet  wide  ;  the  fall  is  about  thirteen  feet  in  depth, 
and  on  the  swelling  of  the  stream,  is  greatly  increased 
in  its  picturesque  effect. 

The  soil  in  general  is  a  retentive  clay,  producing 
chiefly  oats,  but  wheat  also  is  grown,  as  well  as  all 
other  kinds  of  grain,  and  beans,  potatoes,  turnips,  and 
the  various  grasses.  The  husbandry  of  the  parish  is 
not  so  much  in  advance  as  that  of  many  other  parts, 
221 


but  improvements  are  in  progress,  especially  furrow- 
draining,  and  subsoil  ploughing  is  practised  to  a  limited 
extent.  The  dairy  is  much  regarded,  and  what  is 
called  Dunlop  cheese  is  made  in  large  quantities,  fre- 
quently of  excellent  quality,  and,  with  the  butter,  milk, 
and  other  dairy  produce,  is  relied  on  for  the  payment 
of  nearly  half  the  rent.  The  cattle  are  mostly  of  the 
pure  Ayrshire  breed,  but  a  few  of  the  West  Highland 
or  Galloway  are  kept  on  the  higher  grounds  ;  the  sheep 
were  formerly  the  black-faced,  but  these,  for  several 
years,  have  been  crossed  with  the  Cheviots,  and  the 
latter  stock  now  generally  prevails.  The  rateable  an- 
nual value  of  Coylton  is  £8144.  The  working  of  the 
subterraneous  contents  of  the  parish  occupies  a  consi- 
derable portion  of  the  manual  labour  of  the  district ; 
coal,  limestone,  ironstone,  plumbago,  clay-slate,  basalt, 
several  varieties  of  freestone,  and  fire-clay,  are  all  found 
here,  and  several  of  them  are  wrought  to  some  extent. 
Three  coal-mines,  a  limestone  quarry,  and  three 
quarries  of  sandstone,  are  in  operation  ;  and  black-lead 
obtained  from  this  part,  for  many  years,  supplied  an 
article  of  traffic,  but  its  quality  not  allowing  a  compe- 
tition with  the  Cumberland  and  foreign  lead,  the  mine 
has  been  abandoned.  Clay-slate,  celebrated  for  sharp- 
ening iron  instruments,  was  also  once  extensively  quar- 
ried ;  but  the  material  being  found  in  abundance,  and 
of  superior  quality,  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Stair, 
the  works  have  been  discontinued.  The  value  of  the 
mineral  produce  is  averaged  at  £6000  annually.  The 
plantations  are  chiefly  in  the  lower  part  of  the  parish, 
and,  being  in  a  thriving  condition,  especially  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  rivers,  add  greatly  to  the  agreeable  cha- 
racter of  the  scenery  ;  they  are  mostly  of  larch  and 
Scotch  fir,  but  oak,  beech,  ash,  elm,  birch,  and  several 
other  kinds  are  plentiful. 

The  mansion  of  Sundrum,  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
bank  of  the  Coyl,  and  commanding  extensive  views,  is 
partly  ancient  and  partly  modern ;  the  old  walls  are 
in  some  portions  twelve  feet,  thick,  and  have  castellated 
summits.  Gadgirth  House,  another  seat,  is  a  plain 
oblong  modern  structure,  on  the  bank  of  the  Ayr  river, 
and  occupies  the  site  of  Gadgirth  Castle,  once  a  place 
of  note,  and  the  residence  of  the  family  of  Chalmers, 
who,  being  very  friendly  to  the  Reformation,  warmly 
patronized  the  celebrated  John  Knox,  and  allowed  him 
to  preach  in  the  castle.  The  great  road  from  Ayr  to 
Dumfries,  through  Nithsdale,  traverses  the  centre  of 
the  parish.  Coylton  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and 
synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage  of 
the  Crown  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £254.  8.  4.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £12  per  annum.  The 
old  church,  the  ruin  of  which  is  still  partly  standing, 
belonged  in  ancient  times  to  the  bishopric  of  Glasgow  ; 
the  present  edifice,  which  is  small  but  handsome,  was 
built  in  1836,  and  is  a  cruciform  structure,  with  a 
square  tower  sixty  feet  high,  containing  a  good  bell. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the  ordinary 
branches,  the  classics,  and  mathematics ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  a  house,  and  £20  fees.  A 
few  years  since,  several  silver  coins  of  the  reigns  of 
Elizabeth,  James  VI.,  and  Charles  I.,  were  dug  up. 
The  Rev.  John  Black,  LL.D.,  author  of  the  LifeofTasso, 
and  who  died  in  the  year  1825,  was  minister  of  Coylton 
for  fifteen  years ;  he  was  a  native  of  the  parish  of 
Douglas,  in  the  county  of  Lanark. 


CRAI 


C  R  A  I 


CRAGGANESTERand  CRAGGANTOUL,  hamlets, 
in  the  parish  of  Weem,  county  of  Perth,  7  miles 
(S.  W.)  from  Fortingal ;  containing  respectively  23 
and  20  inhabitants.  These  are  neighbouring  places, 
situated  in  one  of  the  detached  portions  of  the  parish, 
and  on  the  western  border  of  Loch  Tay.  The  road 
from  Fortingal  to  Killin  passes  in  the  vicinity  of  both 
hamlets. 

CRAICHIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dunnichen, 
county  of  Forfar,  1|  mile  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Letham  ; 
containing  70  inhabitants.  It  is  on  one  of  the  roads  be- 
tween Forfar  and  Letham,  and  about  a  mile  south  of 
Dunnichen  church.  The  parochial  church  is  in  the 
village. 

CRAIG,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar,  \  a  mile 
(S.  by  W.)  from  Montrose  ;  containing,  with  the  vil- 
lages of  Ferryden,  Usan,  and  Rossie,  1945  inhabitants. 
This  place  was  formerly  called  Inchbrayock,  the  "  island 
of  trout,"  by  which  name  an  island  of  thirty-four  Scotch 
acres  within  the  parish  is  still  known.  Craig  was  at 
that  time  only  the  designation  of  one  of  the  chief 
estates,  and  it  is  supposed  that,  when  the  place  of  wor- 
ship was  transferred  from  the  island  to  the  property  of 
Craig  on  the  continental  part  of  the  district,  the  name 
of  Craig,  which  is  naturally  derived  from  the  rocky 
nature  of  the  shore,  was  extended  to  the  whole  of  the 
parish.  The  parish  comprehends  two  distinct  titula- 
rities,  viz.,  Craig  and  St.  Skeoch,  which  were  united  in 
the  year  1618,  and  the  latter  of  which,  pronounced  St. 
Skay,  is  said  to  have  received  its  name  from  one  of  the 
northern  saints.  The  site  of  an  ancient  religious  edifice 
on  the  coast  is  still  called  the  chapel  of  St.  Skay  ;  a 
small  burying-place  round  the  spot  is  occasionally  used 
for  interments,  and  the  site  of  the  manse  is  pointed  out 
in  a  neighbouring  field.  Craig  appears  to  have  been  a 
feudal  barony,  a  field  behind  the  house  being  still 
called  Law-field  ;  an  adjoining  farm-steading,  also,  is 
styled  Balgovie,  that  is,  Withie,  or  prison-house,  and  a 
rising  ground  on  the  property  bears  the  name  of  Govan- 
hill,  the  Withie-hill,  or  place  of  execution. 

The  parish  is  about  six  miles  long,  and  two  and  a 
half  in  extreme  breadth,  and  comprises  5138  acres, 
2  roods,  37  perches  of  land.  It  is  partly  bounded  by  a 
basin  about  nine  miles  in  circumference,  through  which 
the  river  South  Esk  flows  into  the  sea,  and  which  is 
filled  with  the  tide  at  high  water.  This  basin  separates 
the  parish  on  the  north  from  the  town  and  harbour  of 
Montrose,  and  on  the  south-east  is  the  German  Ocean. 
The  surface  gradually  rises  from  the  north  and  east 
towards  the  south-west,  where  it  attains  a  height  of 
400  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  coast  is  rocky, 
and  towards  the  south  quite  precipitous ;  it  forms 
about  five  miles  of  the  boundary  line  of  the  parish,  and 
has  Montrose  bay  and  ness  on  the  north,  and  Lunan 
bay  and  Boddin  point  on  the  south.  The  shores 
abound  in  all  kinds  of  fish,  which  are  taken  in  great 
numbers  in  the  respective  seasons.  The  soil  in  the 
middle  of  the  parish  is  a  strong  rich  loam  ;  towards  the 
eastern  quarter  it  is  sandy,  and  in  some  places,  espe- 
cially in  the /western  portion,  it  is  damp  and  moorish. 
About  3509  acres  are  cultivated,  331  waste  or  pasture, 
757  undivided  common,  belonging  to  the  parishes  of 
Craig,  Marytown,  Farnell,  and  Kinnell,  and  291  acres 
are  under  wood,  comprising  almost  all  the  trees  usually 
grown.  Grain  of  every  kind,  with  the  principal  green 
222 


crops,  is  cultivated  in  the  parish  ;  and  as  the  husbandry 
adopted  comprehends  all  the  most  approved  usages,  the 
average  crops,  both  as  to  quantity  and  quality,  are  of  a 
superior  character.  The  cattle  are  the  Angusshire 
black,  without  horns,  and  the  sheep  are  chiefly  the 
black-faced  Highland  breed.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £9645. 

The  rocks  consist  of  the  old  red  sandstone  and  lime- 
stone, intermixed  with  several  varieties  of  trap,  in  which 
very  fine  specimens  of  the  Scotch  pebble  are  often  found 
imbedded.  There  are  some  quarries  of  the  trap  forma- 
tion, which  is  in  considerable  demand  for  building,  buc 
requires,  for  facings,  the  more  ornamental  material 
of  sandstone.  The  mansions  are,  the  house  of  Rossie, 
built  in  1S00;  the  villa  of  Inchbrayock,  built  in  1813; 
the  house  of  Usan,  in  1820  ;  and  that  of  Dunninald,  in 
1825.  A  few  of  the  inhabitants  are  employed  in  manu- 
factures ;  but  the  principal  attention  of  the  population 
is  divided  between  agriculture  and  fishing,  the  produce 
of  the  latter  of  which  amounts  in  value  to  about  £7000 
annually.  The  salmon  taken  is  mostly  packed  in  ice, 
and  sent  to  the  Edinburgh  and  London  markets.  The 
turnpike-road  from  Montrose  to  Arbroath  passes 
through  the  parish  ;  and  the  Inverness  mail,  and  the 
Aberdeen  and  Montrose  coaches  travel  daily  on  it. 
During  the  summer,  also,  the  steam-boat  from  Aberdeen 
to  Leith  touches  at  the  village  of  Usan.  There  are  har- 
bours at  Ferryden  and  Boddin,  large  enough  for  small 
sloops  with  coal  and  lime,  and  piers  and  warehouses 
are  expected  shortly  to  be  built  at  Ferryden  :  the  dues 
belong  to  the  town  of  Montrose.  Facility  of  intercourse 
is  likewise  afforded  by  several  bridges,  the  chief  of  which 
is  a  magnificent  suspension-bridge  over  the  South  Esk, 
opening  an  immediate  communication  with  Montrose. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  pres- 
bytery of  Brechin  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ; 
patrons,  the  College  of  St.  Mary,  in  St.  Andrew's. 
There  is  a  good  manse,  built  in  1805,  with  a  glebe 
valued  at  £24  per  annum  ;  the  stipend  is  £257.  The 
church,  which  is  an  elegant  structure,  with  a  square 
tower,  eighty  feet  high,  was  built  in  1799,  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  late  Mrs.  Ross,  of  Rossie,  and  was  for  many 
years  after  its  erection  the  only  church  in  the  county  pos- 
sessed of  any  architectural  beauty.  It  contains  800  sit- 
tings, all  of  which  are  free.  A  place  of  worship  has  been 
erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church.  There  is  a 
parochial  school,  in  which  the  classics,  mathematics, 
navigation,  and  all  the  usual  branches  of  education  are 
taught ;  the  master  has  a  good  house  and  garden,  with 
a  salary  of  £34,  and  about  £17  fees.  The  parish  also 
contains  three  libraries,  to  which  the  inhabitants  have 
access  gratis  ;  two  of  these  are  small,  but  the  third,  in- 
stituted in  1809,  consists  of  nearly  600  volumes,  and  has 
proved  of  great  utility.  Among  the  chief  remains  of  anti- 
quity is  the  Castle  of  Craig,  situated  on  the  northern 
side  of  the  parish,  and  formerly  a  place  of  considerable 
strength  ;  it  has  a  square  tower  and  gateway,  apparently 
of  great  age,  but  in  good  preservation,  and  a  part 
of  it,  bearing  the  date  of  1634,  is  still  occupied  as  a 
dwelling-house.  Near  Boddin,  on  the  south  coast,  are 
the  remains  of  an  old  castle  called  Black  Jack,  supposed 
to  be  thus  named  in  comparison  with  Red  Castle  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  bay.  A  strong  earthen  fort, 
also,  with  out-works,  and  accommodation  within  for 
men  and  ammunition,  was  to  be  seen,  a  few  years  ago, 


C  R  A  I 


CRAI 


at  the  point  where  the  South  Esk  falls  into  the  sea  ;  it 
is  said  to  have  been  used  in  Cromwell's  time,  but  it  is 
not  known  by  whom  it  was  built.  Cannon  were  placed 
at  it  in  1745.  The  celebrated  Archbishop  Leighton 
was  descended  from  a  family  of  some  celebrity  in  former 
times,  who  were  proprietors  of  the  lands  of  Usan  ;  and 
the  well  known  Andrew  Melville  was  born  at  Baldovie, 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  parish. 

CRAIG  OF  MADDERTY,  a  burgh  of  barony,  in 
the  parish  of  Madderty,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing, 
with  the  village  of  St.  David's,  1S1  inhabitants.  The 
estate  of  Craig,  on  which  the  village  is  built,  was  erected 
in  1626  into  a  free  burgh  of  barony,  through  the  instru- 
mentality of  Lord  John  Madderty,  by  charter  confer- 
ring power  to  hold  a  market  every  Friday,  with  four 
fairs  yearly.  Courts  have  been  held  occasionally  within 
the  barony,  for  settling  disputes  ;  but  the  village  has 
latterly  very  much  declined,  and  in  its  place  has  risen 
that  of  St.  David's,  in  which  is  a  school. 

CRAIGDALLIE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Kin- 
naird,  county  of  Perth  ;   containing  52  inhabitants. 

CRAIGEND,  a  village,  in  the  late  quoad  sacra  parish 
of  Crosshill,  parish  of  Old  Monkland,  Middle  ward 
of  the  county  Lanark,  A\  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from  Glas- 
gow ;  containing  SO  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the 
bank  of  the  river  Clyde,  which  here  makes  a  consider- 
able bend,  and  on  the  road  from  Glasgow  to  Bellshill,  in 
the  parish  of  Bothwell. 

CRAIGEjND,  a  hamlet,  in  the  East  parish  of  the 
city  and  county  of  Perth  ;   containing  47  inhabitants. 

CRAIGHALL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Coylton, 
district  of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr  ;  containing  100  inha- 
bitants. A  coal-mine  of  some  extent  has  been  in  opera- 
tion at  this  place  for  a  number  of  years,  and  is  one  of 
three  large  coal-mines  of  the  parish. 

CRAIGHALL  and  NEW  CRAIGHALL,  villages, 
the  former  in  the  parish  of  Inveresk,  and  the  latter 
chiefly  in  Inveresk  parish,  but  partly  in  that  of  Lib- 
berton,  county  of  Edinburgh  ;  containing  respec- 
tively 501  and  336  inhabitants.  Craighall  is  situated 
about  two  miles  south- south- west  of  Musselburgh,  and 
on  the  east  of  the  inclined  plane  of  the  branch  of  the 
railway  to  that  town  from  Edinburgh.  Coal  is  abun- 
dant, and  in  the  vicinity  are  extensive  coal-mines. 
Close  to  the  village  is  Pinkie  House,  the  seat  of  Sir  John 
Hope,  Bart. ;  it  was  originally  a  country  seat  of  the 
abbots  of  Dunfermline,  and  after  the  Reformation  be- 
came private  property.  Although  still  a  large  structure, 
it  is  evidently  only  part  of  a  magnificent  design. 

CRAIGIE  and  BARNWEILL,  a  parish,  in  the  dis- 
trict of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr,  4  miles  (S.)  from  Kil- 
marnock ;  containing  779  inhabitants.  Craigie  was 
disjoined  from  the  parish  of  Riccarton  in  1647,  and 
in  1673,  it  received  an  augmentation  by  the  annexation 
of  the  suppressed  parish  of  Barnweill,  the  larger  part  of 
the  stipend  of  which,  however,  was  transferred  to  the 
minister  of  the  newly-erected  parish  of  Stair.  The 
parish  is  about  seven  miles  long,  and  one  and  a  half 
broad.  The  scenery  is  pleasingly  varied  ;  the  hills  near 
the  church  rise  about  500  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  are  covered  with  verdure  to  the  summit,  ex- 
cepting where  a  craggy  rock  occasionally  protrudes. 
The  views  presented  from  the  heights  are  extensive  and 
beautiful,  and  the  lands  are  ornamented  with  several 
lochs,  some  of  which,  however,  are  partly  in  adjoining 
223 


parishes;  Loch  Brown  covers  nearly  100  acres,  and 
is  about  half  in  this  parish,  the  remaining  part  being 
in  those  of  Mauchline  and  Tarbolton.  The  parish  com- 
prises 6300  acres,  almost  entirely  under  cultivation. 
The  principal  kind  of  grain  raised,  and  nearly  the  only 
kind,  is  oats  ;  the  pastures  are  extensive  ;  several  tracts 
are  under  rye-grass  and  meadow-grass,  and  the  re- 
mainder of  the  green  crops  consist  of  beans,  potatoes, 
and  a  few  turnips.  The  farms  average  about  ninety 
acres,  and  besides  a  tolerable  proportion  of  sheep,  of  a 
mixed  breed,  between  7 00  and  800  milch  cows  are  kept, 
and  upwards  of  400  young  cows  and  calves  ;  the  milk  is 
chiefly  used  for  cheese,  and  the  stock  sold  at  Kilmar- 
nock. The  parish  contains  a  corn-mill,  turned  by  the 
waters  of  one  of  the  lochs.  Various  improvements 
have  taken  place  in  agriculture,  but  that  which  has 
been  most  beneficial  is  furrow-draining,  which  has  been 
carried  to  a  great  extent ;  the  farm-houses  are  substan- 
tial and  well  fitted-up,  and  about  half  of  them  are  slate. 
The  plantations  cover  170  acres.  Three  limestone 
quarries,  and  a  tile-work,  lately  erected,  are  in  opera- 
tion ;  and  coal  of  several  kinds  was  formerly  wrought. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £8058. 

There  are  three  mansions,  named  Cairnhill,  Barn- 
weill, and  Underwood,  the  first  of  which  consists  of  an 
ancient  tower  still  strong,  and  in  very  good  repair,  with 
a  modern  portion  attached.  Barnweill  is  a  neat  resi- 
dence, built  towards  the  latter  part  of  the  last  century  ; 
and  Underw:ood,  a  commodious  house,  was  erected 
about  the  same  time.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the  pa- 
tronage of  James  Campbell,  Esq.,  of  Craigie  ;  the  minis- 
ter's stipend  is  £247,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  five 
acres,  valued  at  £10  per  annum.  The  church,  formerly 
called  the  kirk  in  the  forest,  is  a  neat  plain  edifice,  built 
in  1776>  an(l  will  accommodate  600  persons.  The  paro- 
chial school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches, 
and  in  the  classics,  practical  mathematics,  and  book- 
keeping ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house, 
and  £18  fees.  The  ruins  of  the  church  of  Barnweill 
are  still  standing,  and  also  those  of  Craigie  Castle,  a 
very  ancient  building,  at  one  time  inhabited  by  the 
Wallaces  of  Craigie,  a  collateral  branch  of  the  family  of 
Sir  William  Wallace,  the  Scottish  patriot.  There  are 
several  artificial  mounds  called  "  law  hills,"  on  which 
culprits  are  supposed  to  have  been  formerly  tried. 

CRAIGIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dalmeny, 
county  of  Linlithgow,  1\  miles  (E.  N.  E.)  from  Kirk- 
liston ;  containing  75  inhabitants.  It  is  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  parish,  and  in  its  vicinity  is  Craigie  Hall, 
formerly  the  residence  and  estate  of  the  Craigies,  an 
ancient  and  considerable  family.  One  of  them  was  a 
witness  to  the  original  charter  granted  to  the  first  laird 
of  Dundas  in  the  year  1120.  In  13S7,  the  heiress  of 
the  family  married  Sir  John  Stewart,  who  took  the 
name,  and  his  posterity  continued  here  until  1640,  when 
the  estate  of  Craigie  Hall  was  sold  ;  it  subsequently  be- 
came the  seat  of  the  Hope  family. — See  Dalmeny. 

CRAIGIE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Caputh, 
county  of  Perth,  2|  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Caputh  ; 
containing  67  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  the  eastern  part  of 
the  parish,  and  adjoins  the  village  of  Cluny  on  the  east 
side. 

CRAIGIE,  a  village,  in  the  East  parish  of  the  city 
and  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  219  inhabitants.     It 


C  R  A  I 


C  R  A  I 


is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  river  Tay,  and  a 
little  south  of  the  city,  of  which  it  forms  a  suburb.  It 
is  a  pleasant  village,  and  in  its  vicinity  is  the  site  of  the 
old  castle  of  Craigie,  which  belonged  to  the  Ross 
family. 

CRAIGIELANDS,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Kirk- 
patrick-Juxta,  county  of  Dumfries,  2^  miles  (S.  by 
W.)  from  Moffat  ;  containing  S4  inhabitants.  It  is 
about  a  mile  north-west  by  west  from  Kirkpatrick,  and 
a  short  distance  south  of  the  Evan  water.  The  hamlet 
is  small  and  scattered. 

CRAIGMILL,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Logie, 
county  of  Clackmannan,  2  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Stirling; 
containing  78  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at  the  southern 
base  of  the  Abbey  Craig,  in  a  detached  portion  of  the 
county,  about  a  mile  south  of  Logie,  and  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Forth  river,  which  here  is  very  devious  in  its 
course.  The  place  was  chiefly  known,  before  the  duty 
on  spirits  was  lowered,  as  a  residence  of  smugglers. 

CRAIGNEUK,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dalziel, 
county  of  Lanark.  Near  this  village  is  an  excellent 
quarry  of  flagstone,  which  affords  employment  to  seve- 
ral of  the  inhabitants.  The  stone,  which  is  of  a  very 
fine  grain,  and  of  a  reddish  colour,  varies  from  one 
quarter  of  an  inch  to  five  inches  in  thickness,  and  is 
much  used  for  pavements,  and  occasionally  substituted 
for  slate  in  the  roofing  of  buildings. 

CRAIGNISH,  a  parish,  in  the  district  and  county  of 
Argyll,  16  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Lochgilphead;  con- 
taining S73  inhabitants.  This  place,  though  known  in 
modern  times  only  by  its  present  appellation,  was 
anciently  called  both  Craignish  and  Kilmhorie.  The 
former  name,  which  is  a  compound  Gaelic  term  signi- 
fying a  rocky  peninsula,  is  descriptive  of  the  southern 
portion  of  the  parish  ;  and  the  latter,  meaning  a  chapel 
dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  was  applied  in  reference 
to  an  ancient  structure,  the  ruins  of  which  yet  remain 
in  the  principal  burial-ground.  The  parish  is  washed 
by  the  Atlantic  on  the  west  and  south,  and  is  separated 
on  the  east,  by  Loch  Craignish,  from  the  parishes  of 
Dalavich  and  Kilmartin.  It  measures  a  little  more 
than  eleven  miles  in  length,  and  about  two  in  average 
breadth,  comprehending,  for  a  highland  district,  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  land  under  cultivation.  The  coast, 
on  account  of  its  numerous  indentations,  is  supposed  to 
form  a  line  of  sixteen  or  seventeen  miles  in  extent,  and 
is  exceedingly  rocky  on  the  south  and  west,  and  also 
marked  in  the  latter  direction  by  several  small  bays 
with  fine  white  sandy  shores.  Loch  Craignish  is  about 
three  miles  wide  at  a  small  distance  from  the  entrance ; 
in  other  parts  it  varies  considerably  in  breadth,  and 
towards  its  head,  narrows  itself  to  less  than  a  mile,  the 
depth  averaging  about  twelve  fathoms.  On  each  side 
of  the  loch,  at  the  distance  of  about  half  a  mile  from 
the  land,  is  a  chain  of  verdant  islets,  some  of  them 
ornamented  with  oak,  ash,  birch,  and  fir  trees ;  and  at 
the  northern  extremity,  the  water  expands  into  a  spa- 
cious harbour,  with  good  anchorage,  and  secured  by  the 
surrounding  hills  from  the  violence  of  winds.  There  is 
also  a  very  convenient  harbour  in  a  creek  called  Little 
Loch  Craignish,  on  the  west  of  the  parish,  about  a  mile 
from  the  southern  extremity  of  the  peninsula ;  it  is 
much  frequented  by  vessels  in  stormy  weather,  or  when 
waiting  for  a  favourable  tide.  The  most  considerable 
of  the  islands  just  alluded  to  are  those  of  Mc  Niven  and 
224 


Mc  Larty ;  and  near  the  southern  point  of  the  penin- 
sula, in  a  south-westerly  direction,  are  five  others,  of 
which  that  called  Garrarissa,  the  largest  of  the  whole, 
forms  the  Sound  named  Dorus-mor. 

The  surface  of  the  parish  in  the  interior  is  much 
diversified.  Lofty  hills  covered  with  heath  are  alter- 
nated with  tracts  of  flat  laud,  ornamented  in  some  parts 
by  verdant  declivities  and  valleys,  interspersed  with 
lochs,  and  shrouded  with  beautiful  foliage.  The  north- 
ern extremity  of  the  parish  is  marked  by  a  chain  of 
rugged  hills,  rising  about  700  feet  above  the  sea ;  they 
are  mostly  covered  with  a  kind  of  heathy  pasture,  and 
skirted  at  the  base  with  a  belt  of  level  land  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  broad.  The  surface  along  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  peninsular  portion  of  the  parish  is  dis- 
tinguished by  a  series  of  verdant  eminences,  attaining 
in  some  parts  an  elevation  of  300  feet  ;  at  the  base  is  a 
narrow  strip  of  land  stretching  to  the  margin  of  the 
loch,  and  forming  a  variety  of  interesting  points  and 
bays  on  a  flat  clayey  shore.  A  range  of  hills,  covered 
principally  with  heath,  also  characterises  the  peninsula, 
stretching  from  north  to  south,  and  commanding  from 
the  chief  heights  beautiful  views  of  Loch  Craignish  and 
its  islets,  the  mountains  of  Mull  and  Morven,  the  hills 
of  Knapdale,  and  the  sound  and  island  of  Jura.  There 
are  likewise  twelve  lochs  in  the  parish,  besides  nume- 
rous rivulets  ;  trout  is  abundant,  and  char  is  found  in 
one  of  the  lochs.  The  soil  in  some  places  is  sterile  ; 
that  under  tillage  chiefly  consists  of  two  distinct  kinds, 
the  one  a  hazel  mould  resting  on  rock,  and  the  other 
a  darker  earth  incumbent  on  clay,  and  the  whole  is 
interspersed  with  sandy  tracts.  The  cultivated  lands, 
though  small  in  extent,  are  of  average  fertility,  pro- 
ducing chiefly  crops  of  oats  and  potatoes  ;  live  stock  is 
much  attended  to,  but  the  dairy  produce  is  incon- 
siderable. Husbandry  has  made  comparatively  but  few 
advances  ;  the  lands  are  mostly  under  the  old  system 
of  cultivation,  and  many  tracts  of  good  quality,  for  want 
of  draining,  are  suffered  to  lie  waste.  A  superior  state 
of  things  is,  however,  observable  in  a  few  farms  held  on 
lease,  which  are  inclosed  and  well  drained.  The  sheep 
are  the  black-faced,  with  a  few  Leicesters  and  Cheviots, 
and  the  West  Highland  breed  of  cattle  prevails,  mixed 
with  a  small  proportion  of  lowland  milch  cows.  The 
prevailing  rock  in  the  peninsular  district  is  clay-slate, 
assuming  frequently  a  sandy  character,  and  sometimes 
running  into  a  hard  inferior  sandstone.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3207. 

Castle  Craignish,  situated  in  the  south,  is  an  ancient 
structure  with  modern  additions,  and  contains,  in  the 
lower  portion,  a  vaulted  apartment  said  to  have  been 
formerly  used  as  a  dungeon.  The  house  of  Barbreck, 
in  the  north-eastern  quarter,  a  commodious  mansion, 
and  that  of  Dail,  on  the  western  coast,  are  both  modern 
residences,  and,  like  the  castle,  have  demesnes  orna- 
mented with  clumps  of  plantations,  covering  together 
about  300  acres,  which  comprehend  nearly  the  whole 
wood  in  the  parish.  The  population  are  employed  in 
agriculture,  except  those  occasionally  engaged  in  fishing. 
The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Inverary  and  synod 
of  Argyll,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll. 
The  minister's  stipend  is  £169.  10.,  of  which  about  a 
quarter  is  received  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  of  about  fifteen  acres,  valued  at  £18  per 
annum.      The  church  is  a  neat   structure,    erected    in 


C  R  A  I 


C  R  A  I 


1S26,  and  conveniently  situated  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  parish.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in 
English  and  Gaelic,  the  latter  being  the  ordinary  lan- 
guage, and  in  the  usual  branches  of  a  plain  education, 
with  Latin  if  required.  The  master  has  a  salary  of 
£25.  13.,  with  a  house,  and  £20  fees.  The  remains  of 
numerous  Danish  forts  are  still  visible  in  the  parish. 
The  ruins  of  a  religious  house,  supposed  to  have  been 
an  oratory,  and  of  another,  formerly,  it  is  said,  the 
parish  chapel,  may  also  yet  be  traced  ;  and  there  is  a 
small  bay  called  the  Port  of  the  Athollmen,  which  re- 
ceived its  name  from  the  circumstance  of  several  of  the 
Marquess  of  Atholl's  men  having  been  drowned  there, 
after  a  defeat  by  the  natives  in  the  seventeenth  century. 
CRAIGO,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Logie-Pert, 
count}'  of  Forfar,  5^  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Montrose  ; 
containing  359  inhabitants.  It  is  pleasantly  seated  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  North  Esk  river,  and  in  its  vicinity 
are  extensive  bleachfields,  and  several  mills  for  flax- 
spinning,  cloth- finishing  machinery,  and  an  alkali  manu- 
facture. These  works  together  employ  about  150  hands. 
Craigo  House,  built  by  the  Carnegie  family,  about  fifty 
years  since,  is  a  mile  south  of  the  village,  and  the 
grounds  around  are  well  planted  :  on  the  estate  is  a 
good  freestone  quarry.  The  North  Esk  is  crossed  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  place  by  substantial  bridges, 
of  which  one,  of  three  arches,  was  erected  by  the  cele- 
brated John  Erskine,  of  Dun,  at  the  time  of  the  Re- 
formation. 

CRAIGROTHIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Ceres, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife,  1  mile  (Yv\)  from 
Ceres ;  containing  308  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on 
the  road  from  Kennoway  to  Cupar,  and  near  Struthers, 
the  old  seat  of  the  earls  of  Crawfurd.  It  has  a  bailie 
and  council,  and  its  rural  corporation  was  greatly 
patronised  by  the  last  earl.  A  school  has  been  built  by 
subscription. 

CRAIGTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Monikie, 
county  of  Forfar,  ^  a  mile  (S.  W.)  from  Monikie ; 
containing  162  inhabitants.  It  lies  on  the  road  from 
Dundee  to  Brechin  ;  and  its  population  is  chiefly  em- 
ployed in  weaving  linen-cloth  for  the  manufacturers  in 
the  surrounding  districts.  In  the  village  is  a  small 
school. 

CRAIGTON-FIELD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  New 
Kilpatrick,  county  of  Dumbarton  :  containing  69 
inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
parish,  on  the  road  from  Kilpatrick  to  Drymen,  and 
about  three  miles  north  north-west  of  the  parochial 
church. 

CRAIL,  a  royal  burgh, 
sea-port,  and  parish,  in  the 
district  of  St.  Andrew's, 
county  of  Fife,  10  miles 
(S.  E.  by  E.)  from  St.  An- 
drew's, and  40  (N.  N.  E.) 
from  Edinburgh  ;  containing 
1737  inhabitants,  of  whom 
1221  are  in  the  burgh.  This 
place,  of  which  the  ancient 
Gaelic  name,  Caryle,  is  de- 
scriptive of  its  situation  in 
a  corner  of  the  county,  is  of 
remote  antiquity,  and  had  a  royal  castle,  whereof  the 
date  is  not  clearly  ascertained,  but  which  was  occasion- 
Vol.  I.— 225 


Burgh  Seal. 


ally  the  residence  of  David  I.  A  priory  and  a  collegiate 
church  were  founded  here  at  an  early  period,  and 
richly  endowed.  Of  the  former,  which  was  suppressed 
previously  to  the  Reformation,  there  remain  only  some 
vestiges  of  the  chapel,  dedicated  to  St  Rufus  ;  and  the 
latter,  in  which  were  eight  altars,  was  at  that  time 
stripped  of  its  rich  ornaments,  and  is  now  the  parish 
church.  Mary  of  Guise,  afterwards  consort  of  James  V., 
landed  on  this  coast  after  a  severe  storm,  and  was  hospi- 
tably entertained  in  the  ancient  mansion  of  Balcomie 
Castle,  whence,  accompanied  by  the  king,  she  proceeded 
to  St.  Andrew's. 

The  town,  which  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  consists  principally  of  two  parallel 
streets,  extending  along  the  shore  from  east  to  west,  and 
intersected  nearly  at  right  angles  by  others  of  inferior 
note.  The  houses  in  the  main  street  are  spacious,  and 
of  ancient  appearance ;  and  though,  from  the  loss  of 
the  herring-fishery,  of  which  the  town  was  a  principal 
station,  it  has  been  long  declining  in  prosperity,  it  still 
retains  many  vestiges  of  its  former  importance.  The 
harbour  is  both  inconvenient  and  unsafe ;  but  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  east  is  Roome  Bay,  which  might 
be  converted  into  an  excellent  haven,  capable  of  afford- 
ing secure  shelter  to  200  sail  of  vessels,  and  might  be 
rendered  available  to  the  increase  of  the  trade  of  the 
Forth  and  of  the  eastern  coasts  of  England  and  Scotland. 
There  are  no  manufactures  carried  on,  nor  any  trade  of 
importance,  except  what  is  requisite  for  the  supply  of 
the  neighbourhood. 

The  government  of  the  town,  which  was  erected 
into  a  royal  burgh  by  charter  of  Robert  Bruce,  confirmed 
by  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  James  VI.,  and  Charles  I.  and 
II.,  is  vested  in  a  chief  magistrate,  two  bailies,  a  treasurer, 
and  a  council  of  seventeen,  chosen  under  the  regulations 
of  the  Municipal  act  of  William  IV.  There  are  seven  in- 
corporated tradiug  companies,  the  blacksmiths,  wrights, 
weavers,  tailors,  shoemakers,  coopers,  and  bakers,  the 
fees  of  admission  into  which  vary,  for  sons  of  free- 
men, from  £1.  5.  to  £3.  19-,  and  for  strangers,  from  £3 
to  £6.  2.  The  magistrates,  whose  jurisdiction  extends 
over  the  whole  of  the  royalty,  hold  bailie  courts  for  civil 
actions  and  the  trial  of  petty  offences,  but  very  few  cases 
come  under  their  decision.  The  burgh  is  associated  with 
those  of  St.  Andrew's,  Anstruther  Easter  and  Wester, 
Cupar,  Kilrenny,  and  Pittenweem,  in  returning  a  mem- 
ber to  the  imperial  parliament  ;  the  number  of  qualified 
voters  is  about  fifty-one.  The  town-hall,  a  neat  building, 
is  situated  in  the  principal  street. 

The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  east  and  south 
by  the  German  Ocean,  is  above  six  miles  in  length,  ex- 
tending to  Fifeness,  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  county, 
and  about  three  miles  in  extreme  breadth ;  but  from 
its  irregularity  of  form,  the  precise  number  of  acres 
has  not  been  ascertained.  The  surface,  near  the  shore, 
has  an  elevation  of  about  eighty  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  rises  gradually  towards  the  west,  without  forming 
any  considerable  hills.  The  soil  comprehends  every 
variety  of  character,  from  the  deepest  black  loam  to  a 
thin  wet  clay,  and  the  chief  crops  are,  wheat,  oats,  beans, 
barley,  and  potatoes,  of  all  of  which  great  quantities  are 
sent  annually  to  the  south.  The  system  of  agriculture 
has  been  much  improved ;  all  the  modern  implements 
of  husbandry  are  in  use ;  the  farms  are  of  moderate 
size,  and  on  most  of  them   threshing-mills   have  been 

2  G 


CR  A  I 


CRAM 


erected.  The  lands  near  the  town  obtain  a  very  high 
rent,  generally  from  £6  to  £8  per  acre,  and  the  pastures 
are  luxuriantly  rich.  Coal  is  found  in  the  parish,  and 
there  are  still  remaining  the  mines  formerly  in  opera- 
tion ;  limestone  of  good  quality  is  also  abundant,  and  is 
obtained  for  manure.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £10,240.  The  only  plantations  are  around 
the  mansions  of  the  principal  landed  proprietors.  The 
ancient  houses  of  Newhall  and  Balcomie  have  been  de- 
molished ;  of  the  latter,  -which  was  one  of  the  noblest 
mansions  in  the  county,  a  small  portion  only  remains, 
forming,  however,  a  good  landmark  for  mariners.  The 
principal  houses  at  present  are  those  of  Airdrie,  a  hand- 
some mansion  embosomed  in  thriving  plantations ; 
Kirkmay  ;  and  Wormiston,  in  the  grounds  of  which,  also, 
are  some  trees  of  stately  growth.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery 
of  St.  Andrew's  and  synod  of  Fife.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  £280,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£64  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Glasgow.  The 
church,  formerly  collegiate  for  a  provost,  sacrist,  and 
prebendaries,  still  retains  some  vestiges  of  its  ancient 
grandeur.  The  parochial  school,  with  which  the  burgh 
grammar  school  has  been  incorporated,  is  well  conducted  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden, 
and  the  fees  average  about  £40.  When  the  number  of 
scholars  exceeds  ninety,  an  assistant  is  appointed,  who 
receives  from  the  corporation  £12  per  annum,  the  salary 
formerly  paid  to  the  burgh  schoolmaster.  The  remains 
of  the  priory,  near  the  sea-shore,  are  almost  obli- 
terated, the  eastern  gable,  which  was  the  chief  portion 
left,  having  been  destroyed  by  the  sea  about  forty  years 
ago. 

CRAILING,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Jedburgh, 
county  of  Roxburgh  ;  including  the  village  of  East  and 
West  Nisbet,  and  containing  667  inhabitants,  of  whom 
74  are  in  the  village  of  Crailing,  4  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from 
Jedburgh.  This  place,  of  which  the  name  is  of  uncertain 
derivation,  comprehends  the  ancient  parish  of  Nisbet,  an- 
nexed to  it  by  act  of  the  presbytery  prior  to  the  year  1713. 
The  present  parish  comprises  6000  acres,  of  which  about 
300  are  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder 
arable  land  in  good  cultivation.  The  surface  is  varied,  in 
some  parts  rising  to  a  considerable  elevation  ;  the  highest 
point,  called  Piniel  Heugh,  is  a  hill  covered  with  verdure, 
presenting  a  pleasing  object  in  the  landscape,  and  has 
been  rendered  more  conspicuous  and  interesting  by  the 
erection  on  its  summit  of  a  monument  to  commemorate 
the  victory  at  Waterloo.  This  monument  is  a  circular 
column  of  whinstone,  150  feet  in  height,  rising  from  a 
massive  pedestal,  on  the  face  of  which  is  the  inscription, 
"  To  the  Duke  of  Wellington  and  the  British  Army, 
William  Ker,  Vlth  Marquess  of  Lothian,  and  his  tenan- 
try, dedicate  this  monument,  30th  of  June,  1815."  It 
has  within  the  shaft  a  spiral  staircase,  leading  to  the 
summit,  which  commands  an  extensive  and  richly-varied 
prospect,  embracing  the  windings  of  the  Teviot  to  the 
west,  the  range  of  the  Cheviot  hills  to  the  south,  Tweed- 
dale  to  the  north,  and  the  whole  of  the  Merse  to  the  sea 
on  the  east.  The  Teviot  flows  through  the  parish,  and, 
a  little  below  the  village,  receives  the  Oxnam  water. 

The  soil  is  dry  and  fertile,  and  extremely  favourable 

to  the  growth  of  all  kinds  of  grain ;  and  about  the  year 

1800,    very  profitable  crops  of  tobacco   were  raised  on 

some  of  the  lands,  by  way  of  experiment.     The  present 

226 


crops  are,  oats,  wheat,  barley,  potatoes,  turnips,  and  peas ; 
the  system  of  agriculture  is  highly  improved.  The 
plantations  are  well  managed,  and  in  a  flourishing  state  ; 
and  on  the  road  passing  through  the  village,  are  some 
stately  rows  of  beech,  ash,  and  elm.  The  principal  sub- 
strata are  whinstone  and  sandstone.  The  latter  is  found 
near  the  river,  of  a  light  colour,  and  of  excellent  quality 
for  building  ;  two  quarries  have  been  opened,  and  blocks 
of  twelve  feet  in  length  have  been  raised.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £7379.  Monteviot  House, 
the  seat  of  the  Marquess  of  Lothian,  is  situated  at  the 
western  extremity  of  the  Nisbet  district.  The  ancient 
mansion  is  small  and  uninteresting  in  its  architectural 
details  ;  a  spacious  and  elegant  modern  mansion  in  the 
castellated  style  was  commenced  by  the  late  marquess, 
but  has  not  yet  been  completed.  Crailing  House  is  a 
handsome  mansion,  on  rising  ground  overlooking  the 
winding  stream  of  the  Oxnam  ;  the  demesne  is  laid  out 
with  great  taste,  and  embellished  with  rich  plantations. 
The  village  of  Crailing  was  formerly  more  extensive 
than  at  present  ;  it  has  facility  of  intercourse  with  Jed- 
burgh and  Kelso  by  the  great  road  from  Carlisle  to 
Berwick. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Jedburgh  and  synod 
of  Merse  and  Teviotdale.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£251.  10.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £32.  10. 
per  annum  ;  patrons,  the  Crown  and  the  Marquess  of 
Lothian.  The  church,  situated  in  the  Crailing  district 
of  the  parish,  is  a  neat  plain  edifice,  adapted  for  a  con- 
gregation of  300  persons.  Of  the  ancient  church  of 
Nisbet  scarcely  any  remains  exist,  but  the  churchyard  is 
still  used.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church.  The  parochial  school  at  Crailing  is 
well  conducted  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £30,  with 
£22  fees,  a  house  and  garden,  and  £3.  15.,  the  interest  of 
a  bequest  by  one  of  the  lords  Cranstoun.  A  school  at 
Nisbet,  also,  is  supported  by  the  marquess,  who  gives 
the  master  a  salary  of  £20,  with  a  house  and  garden 
rent  free,  in  addition  to  the  fees.  The  old  mansion- 
house  at  Monteviot  is  said  to  be  part  of  an  ancient 
hospital  dependent  on  the  abbey  of  Ancrurn.  Near  the 
site  of  the  mansion  are  traces  of  the  cemetery  belonging 
to  the  establishment  j  a  considerable  number  of  tomb- 
stones have  from  time  to  time  been  dug  up,  and  the  in- 
scriptions on  some  of  them  were  tolerably  legible,  but 
none  appear  to  have  been  of  any  importance. 

CRAMOND,  a  parish,  chiefly  in  the  county  of  Edin- 
burgh, but.  partly  in  that  of  Linlithgow  ;  including 
the  village  of  Davidson's-Mains,  and  containing  1981 
inhabitants,  of  whom  167  are  in  the  village  of  Cramond, 
5  miles  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Edinburgh.  This  place  derived 
its  name,  originally  Caer  Amon,  from  the  erection  of  a 
fortress  on  the  river  Amon  or.Almond  at  its  influx  into 
the  Frith  of  Forth  ;  and  from  the  discovery  of  coins 
and  other  relics  of  antiquity,  it  is  supposed  to  have 
been  a  Roman  station,  and  the  port  through  which 
that  people  obtained  supplies  of  grain  for  their  army. 
Among  the  antiquities  found  here  are,  the  remains  of  a 
bath  and  several  altars,  and  the  military  road  leading 
from  the  village  to  the  south.  About  half  way  between 
Queensferry  and  Ediuburgh  is  Cramond  Brig,  where, 
according  to  ancient  tradition,  one  of  the  Scottish  kings 
was  rescued  from  a  band  of  robbers  by  the  ancestor  of 
the  Howisons  of  Braehead  and  Crawfurdland.  That 
family  is  said  to  hold  these  lands  on  condition  of  at- 


CRAM 


C  R  A  N 


tending  at  Cramond  Bridge  with  a  basin  of  water  and  a 
towel,  for  the  king  to  wash  his  hands,  when  passing 
here ;  and  this  ceremony  was  performed  by  Mr.  Howison 
Crawfurd  in  1822,  at  the  banquet  given  to  George  IV. 
by  the  corporation  of  Edinburgh. 

The  parish  is  situated  on  the  south  shore  of  the 
Frith,  and  that  part  of  it  which  is  in  the  county  of  Lin- 
lithgow is  separated  from  the  other  portion  by  the  river 
Almond.  The  whole  is  from  six  to  seven  miles  in  length, 
and  from  one  mile  to  two  miles  in  breadth,  and,  includ- 
ing the  small  islands  of  Cramond  and  Inch-Mickery, 
comprises  about  4900  acres.  The  surface  is  beautifully 
diversified,  containing  part  of  the  Corstorphine  hill ; 
and  the  surrounding  district  abounds  with  interesting 
features,  and  with  every  variety  of  picturesque  and 
romantic  scenery.  The  island  of  Cramond,  which  at 
low  water  is  accessible  on  foot,  contains  about  nineteen 
acres,  affording  excellent  pasturage  for  sheep,  and  has 
two  or  three  cottages  for  the  accommodation  of  sea- 
bathers.  It  rises  towards  the  centre  to  a  considerable 
height,  and  on  the  east  are  some  precipitous  cliffs  of 
granite ;  it  anciently  belonged  to  the  bishops  of  Dun- 
keld,  and  subsequently  to  the  Balmerino  family.  Be- 
tween this  island  and  Inch-Colm,  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  Frith,  is  the  small  rocky  islet  of  Inch-Mickery, 
covered  with  mosses  and  sea-weed. 

The  soil  is  fertile,  and  the  lands  throughout  are  in  a 
high  state  of  cultivation,  producing  crops  of  every  kind. 
There  are  several  seams  of  coal  in  the  parish,  which 
have  been  occasionally  wrought ;  but  the  quality  is  not 
such  as  to  encourage  the  continuance  of  the  mines. 
Excellent  freestone  is  found  on  the  lands  of  the  Duke 
of  Buccleuch,  and  from  quarries  here  were  raised  the 
materials  for  the  construction  of  the  harbour  and  pier  of 
Granton.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  Edinburgh 
portion  of  the  parish  is  £16,100.  Among  the  nume- 
rous seats  and  noble  mansions  are,  Carolina  Park,  Gran- 
ton, Lauriston,  Barnton,  Craigcrook,  Cramond  House, 
Muir  House,  New  Saughton,  and  Royton.  The  village 
of  Cramond  is  in  a  romantic  valley  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Almond,  and  opposite  to  the  pleasure-grounds  of 
Dalmeny  Park  on  the  west  bank  of  that  river ;  it  is 
neatly  built,  and  is  a  favourite  resort  of  the  inhabitants 
of  Edinburgh  during  the  summer  months.  Near  it  are 
some  iron  and  paper  works,  established  in  1/71,  which 
are  still  carried  on  with  spirit,  and  afford  regular  em- 
ployment to  many  of  the  population. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Edinburgh  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£271,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per 
annum ;  patrons,  the  family  of  Ramsay.  The  church 
was  erected  in  1656,  since  which  time  it  has  been  fre- 
quently enlarged  and  repaired.  There  is  a  place  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  attended  by  a  considerable  number  of 
children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £30.  Cramond 
has  given  birth  to  several  eminent  and  remarkable  men. 
Of  these,  may  be  mentioned,  John,  Lord  Balmerino,  the 
opposer  of  Charles  I.  and  friend  of  the  Covenanters  ; 
Sir  Thomas  Hope,  the  celebrated  lawyer  of  the  Scottish 
bar ;  Sir  George  Mackenzie,  first  earl  of  Cromarty,  an 
able  writer;  Dr.  Cleghorn,  professor  of  anatomy  in  the 
university  of  Dublin,  who  may  be  considered  as  the 
227 


founder  of  the  school  of  medicine  there  ;  and  John 
Law,  of  Lauriston.  This  last-named  extraordinary  cha- 
racter raised  himself  to  the  dignity  of  comptroller-gene- 
ral of  the  finances  of  France,  upon  the  strength  of  a 
scheme  for  establishing  a  bank,  an  East  India,  and  a 
Mississippi,  company,  by  the  profits  of  which  the  national 
debt  of  France  was  to  be  paid  off.  In  1718,  his  bank 
was  declared  a  royal  one,  and  the  shares  rose  to  upwards 
of  twenty-fold  the  original  value,  so  that,  in  1719,  they 
were  worth  more  than  eighty  times  the  amount  of  all 
the  current  specie  in  France.  But  the  following  year 
this  great  fabric  of  false  credit  fell  to  the  ground,  almost 
overthrew  the  government,  and  ruined  tens  of  thousands 
of  families. — See  Granton. 

CRANSHAWS,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ber- 
wick, 9  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Dunse;  containing  120 
inhabitants.  The  derivation  of  the  name  of  this  place 
is  doubtful,  some  supposing  it  to  have  been  applied  in 
consequence  of  the  number  of  cranes  or  herons  by 
which  the  district  was  originally  visited,  while  others 
trace  it  to  the  Cranberry  bush,  which  is  a  native  of  the 
hills  and  mosses.  The  barony  was  possessed  in  the 
fourteenth  century  by  the  family  of  Douglas,  and  in 
1401,  Archibald,  the  fourth  earl  of  Douglas,  assigned 
the  estates  to  Sir  John  Swinton,  of  Swinton,  whom  he 
calls  in  the  deed  dilectus  consanguineus  noster.  The 
family  of  Swinton  held  the  property  for  a  considerable 
period  ;  and  in  June,  1640,  an  act  was  passed  by  the 
parliament,  confirming  to  them  the  baronies  of  Swinton 
and  Cranshaws,  with  the  teinds,  and  the  patronage  of 
the  church.  In  the  times  of  the  border  warfare,  the 
district  was  involved  in  the  general  commotions,  and 
Cranshaws  Castle  appears  to  have  been  a  place  of  refuge 
from  the  sudden  incursions  of  the  English,  as  well  as 
the  old  castle  of  Scarlaw,  which  was  used  by  the  inha- 
bitants of  another  division  of  the  parish.  The  parish, 
which  is  pastoral,  is  divided  into  two  distinct  portions 
by  the  intervention  of  the  parish  of  Longformacus. 
The  part  in  which  the  church  stands  is  a  pentagon  in 
form,  containing  about  six  square  miles,  and  is  bounded 
by  the  Whiteadder  river  on  the  north  and  east.  The 
other  part  of  the  parish  is  about  five  miles  long,  and 
two  in  mean  breadth,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north,  the 
east,  and  partly  on  the  south,  by  Longformacus.  The 
surface  consists  chiefly  of  lofty  hills,  covered  to  a  great 
extent  with  heath,  and  suited  to  pasture,  although 
most  of  the  farms  have  each  a  portion  of  arable  land. 
The  highest  ground  is  Manslaughter-Law,  so  called,  as 
tradition  reports,  from  a  bloody  engagement  which  took 
place  near  it,  in  1402,  between  the  Earl  of  Dunbar  and 
Hepburn  of  Hailes.  There  are  numerous  springs  in  the 
parish,  of  which  one  is  chalybeate,  and  the  river  Dye 
forms  the  northern  boundary  of  the  southern  division, 
and  shortly  after  falls  into  the  Whiteadder. 

About  350  acres  only  are  under  tillage,  the  produce 
consisting  of  oats,  barley,  peas,  turnips,  potatoes,  and 
sown  grasses  ;  the  grain  is  sent  to  Haddington  and 
Dunbar.  There  are  about  4400  sheep  kept,  which  are 
all  Cheviots,  and  are  sent  to  Gifford,  Dunse,  and  Edin- 
burgh ;  the  cattle  are  a  mixture  of  several  kinds,  but  all 
of  the  black  breed.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £1132.  The  principal  substrata  are  greywacke 
and  greywacke-slate.  Boulders  of  granite,  sienite,  and 
porphyry  are  washed  down  from  rocks  of  conglomerate 
in  the  parishes  of  Stenton  and  Whittingham  ;   and  in 

2  G  2 


C  R  AN 


CR  AT 


Cranshaws  Hill  is  a  fine  conglomerated  rock,  with  an 
intermixture  of  iron-ore.  Near  this  there  occurs  sand- 
stone of  the  secondary  formation,  coloured  by  grains  of 
iron,  and  of  good  quality  for  building;  and  from  the 
same  hill  in  which  this  is  found,  large  quantities  of 
yellow-ochre  issue,  which  are  used  by  the  people  in 
colouring  the  walls  of  their  houses.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Dunse  and 
synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale.  The  minister's  stipend 
is  £158,  of  which  more  than  three-fourths  are  received 
from  the  exchequer,  and  there  is  a  manse,  with  a  glebe 
valued  at  £17  per  annum  ;  patroness,  Lady  Aberdour. 
The  parish  church,  a  very  plain  edifice,  was  built  in 
1739,  and  will  contain  120  persons.  A  parochial  school 
is  supported,  in  which  all  the  usual  branches  of  education 
are  taught ;  the  master's  salary  is  £34,  with  about  £10 
fees,  and  the  allowance  of  house  and  garden.  There  is 
also  a  parochial  library,  consisting  of  200  volumes. 
The  chief  relic  of  antiquity  is  the  Castle  of  Cranshaws, 
which  is  an  oblong  of  forty  feet  by  twenty-four,  with 
walls  forty-five  feet  high,  and  a  modern  battlement. 
Upon  a  hill  on  the  west  side  of  the  parish  are  two 
immense  heaps  of  stones,  said  to  have  been  collected 
to  commemorate  the  death  of  twin-brothers,  of  the 
name  of  Edgely,  who  fell  while  commanding  different 
portions  of  an  army  which  had  mutinied  :  these  stones 
are  called  the  Twin-law  Cairns. 

CRANSTON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Edinburgh, 
1  mile  (N.  by  W.)  from  Ford ;  containing,  with  the  vil- 
lages of  Chesterhill  with  Sauchenside,  Cowsland,  and 
Preston,  1128  inhabitants.  The  name  of  this  place  is 
said  to  be  derived  from  an  Anglo-Saxon  word,  signifying 
"  the  crane's  district,"  and  applied  on  account  of  the 
number  of  cranes  that  formerly  resorted  to  the  place. 
In  the  12th  century,  the  parish  was  divided  into  two 
manors  called  Upper  and  Nether  Cranston,  in  the  latter 
of  which  the  church  was  situated.  Early  in  the  reign  of 
William,  Upper  Cranston  was  possessed  by  Elfric  de 
Cranestun,  who  derived  his  surname  from  the  manor, 
and  whose  descendants  retained  the  property  till  the 
time  of  Charles  II.,  when  William,  the  third  lord  Cran- 
stoun,  sold  it  to  Sir  John  Fletcher,  the  king's  advocate. 
Nether  Cranston,  which  was  the  larger  of  the  two 
manors,  was  granted  by  Earl  Henry  to  Hugh  Ridel, 
from  whom  it  obtained  the  name  of  Cranston-Ridel, 
which  it  retained  till  recent  times.  The  church,  with 
its  tithes  and  other  pertinents,  was  bestowed  by  Hugh 
Ridel  upon  the  monks  of  Kelso,  for  the  sake  of  the 
soul  of  David  I.  and  that  of  Earl  Henry,  and  with  them 
it  continued  till  1317.  During  this  period  they  enjoyed 
the  revenues  of  the  rectory,  a  minister  serving  the 
cure,  and  receiving  the  vicarial  tithes.  The  manor  and 
ch*>pelry  of  Cousland  were  annexed  to  the  parish  of 
Cranston  at  the  Reformation  :  the  chapel  was  burnt  by 
Somerset,  when  he  invaded  Scotland  with  a  large  army 
to  coerce  Queen  Mary  into  a  marriage  with  the  young 
king  of  England. 

The  parish,  which  is  entirely  agricultural,  is  five 
miles  in  length,  and  three  in  breadth,  and  contains  477S 
Scotch  acres,  including  the  lands  of  Cakemuir,  separated 
from  the  main  portion  of  Cranston  by  the  parish  of 
Crichton.  The  surface  is  varied  by  continued  inequa- 
lities ;  and  the  undulations,  adorned  with  fine  seats 
and  flourishing  woodlands,  and  the  well  cultivated  and 
verdant  fields,  render  the  general  aspect  interesting 
228 


and  beautiful.  The  prospects  from  the  more  elevated 
grounds  are  commanding ;  and  the  picturesque  valley 
through  which  the  Tyne  river  here  pursues  its  course 
from  south  to  north,  adds  greatly  to  the  scenery.  The 
soil,  consisting  partly  of  clay  and  partly  of  light  earth, 
is  generally  fertile,  and  the  whole  of  the  land  is  arable, 
with  the  exception  of  200  or  300  acres  in  Cakemuir, 
and  about  250  acres  under  wood.  All  kinds  of  crops, 
of  good  quality,  are  raised  ;  but  the  staple  commodity 
is  corn,  sent  to  the  Dalkeith  market,  about  four  miles 
distant.  The  whole  of  the  modern  improvements  in 
husbandry  have  been  introduced,  and  the  farm-build- 
ings and  inclosures  are  in  good  order.  There  are  seve- 
ral quarries  of  freestone  and  limestone,  from  which  an 
abundant  supply  is  obtained,  and  splint-coal  is  also 
wrought  to  a  very  considerable  extent.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £6813. 

The  chief  mansions  are,  Oxenford  Castle,  the  seat 
of  the  Earl  of  Stair,  a  magnificent  building,  situated 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Tyne,  and  surrounded  by 
beautiful  grounds  ;  and  Preston  Hall,  the  splendid  resi- 
dence of  W.  B.  Callender,  Esq.  :  Chesterhall  House,  a 
rather  old  structure,  was  lately  taken  down  by  the 
earl.  The  mansion-house  of  Cakemuir  is  likewise  a 
remarkable  building ;  the  ancient  part  is  of  great  age, 
consisting  of  a  square  tower,  with  boldly  projecting 
battlements  and  walls  of  extraordinary  thickness.  An 
apartment  here  is  called  Queen  Mary's  room,  and  it 
is  supposed  that  the  name  has  arisen  from  the  cir- 
cumstance of  that  princess  having  occupied  it  shortly 
after  her  flight  from  Borthwick,  in  the  vicinity.  The 
parish  is  crossed  by  two  good  turnpike-roads,  upon 
which  several  public  conveyances  travel  daily,  and 
facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  some  excellent 
bridges.  That  at  Cranston  Dean  is  forty-six  feet  high, 
and  consists  of  three  arches,  each  of  seventeen  feet 
span  :  Lothian  Bridge,  over  the  Tyne,  is  eighty-two  feet 
high,  and  consists  of  five  arches,  each  of  fifty  feet  span, 
surmounted  by  ten  segment  arches,  each  of  fifty-four 
feet  span  and  eight  feet  rise.  On  the  line  of  the  London 
road  by  Cranston,  an  embankment  has  been  formed 
over  the  Cotty  burn,  at  the  height  of  fifty-four  feet, 
by  which  the  distance  is  diminished  1200  yards. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery 
of  Dalkeith  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale ; 
patron,  the  Earl  of  Stair.  The  stipend  of  the  minister 
is  £260,  with  an  elegant  manse,  built  in  1830,  at  the 
expense  of  Mr.  Callender,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £29 
per  annum.  The  church  is  a  neat  edifice  of  freestone, 
built  in  1825,  at  the  cost  of  Sir  John  Dalrymple, 
and  will  accommodate  about  350  persons.  There  is 
a  parochial  school,  where  the  usual  branches  of  a  good 
education  are  taught ;  the  master's  salary  is  £34,  with 
£21.  10.  fees,  and  the  allowance  of  house  and  garden. 
A  good  parish  library  was  instituted  in  1830,  and 
the  poor  have  the  interest  of  £357,  left  by  some  chari- 
table persons.     Many  petrifactions  are  found. 

CRATHIE  and  BRAEMAR,  a  parish,  including  the 
villages  of  Auchandryne  and  Castletown,  in  the  district 
of  Kincardine  O'Neil,  county  of  Aberdeen,  22  miles 
(W.  by  S.)  from  Kincardine  O'Neil;  and  containing 
1712  inhabitants.  The  word  Crathie  is  supposed  to 
be  of  Gaelic  origin,  and  derived  from  the  words  crag 
and  tir  or  thir,  which  signify  "  stony  or  rocky  land,"  and 
are  descriptive  of  the  general  appearance  of  the   sur- 


CRAT 


CRAT 


face.  The  ancient  parish  of  Braemar,  a  name  ex- 
pressing the  highest  land  of  the  three  districts  into 
which  the  county  was  once  distributed,  was  in  early 
times  called  St.  Andrew's,  and  subsequently  Bridgend, 
in  consequence  of  a  bridge  having  been  built  over 
the  Cluney  at  Castletown  by  Malcum-Ceann-Mor,  who 
had  a  hunting-seat  here.  It  received  its  present  desig- 
nation towards  the  end  of  the  reign  of  Mary,  when 
the  lands  about  Castletown  became  the  property  of 
the  Earl  of  Mar;  but  at  what  time  it  was  united  to 
Crathie  is  uncertain.  The  united  parish  extends  about 
forty  miles  in  length,  and  twenty  in  breadth,  and  is 
situated  in  the  heart  of  the  Grampian  range.  The 
principal  part  was  in  ancient  times  covered  with  wood, 
and  was  included  in  the  great  Caledonian  forest  :  that 
portion  called  the  forest  of  Mar,  has  always  been 
highly  celebrated  for  its  abundance  of  very  superior 
timber,  and  the  number  of  fine  deer  which  traverse  it. 
It  was  the  rendezvous  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  country 
in  the  time  of  the  Romans,  and  afterwards  the  strong- 
hold of  the  Highland  clans.  On  the  lands  of  Monaltry, 
on  the  north  bank  of  the  river  Dee,  in  a  narrow 
pass,  is  Carn-na-Cuimhne,  "  the  cairn  of  remembrance," 
so  named  on  account  of  the  chieftains,  in  times  of 
danger,  marching  with  their  followers  through  the 
pass,  and  causing  each  man  to  lay  down  a  stone, 
by  which  they  might  ascertain,  on  their  return,  how 
many  had  followed  them  to  battle,  and  what  number 
had  been  lost  in  the  conflict.  The  castle  of  Braemar 
was  built  as  a  seat  of  the  ancient  earls  of  Mar,  but 
was  subsequently  used  as  a  garrison  to  keep  in  awe 
the  lawless  chieftains,  and  was  let  to  government  for 
barracks  in  1748,  the  great  military  road  from  Blair- 
gowrie to  Fort-George  and  Aberdeen  passing  through 
the  district,  close  by  Carn-na-Cuimhne.  In  the  vale 
near  the  castle,  the  Earl  of  Mar,  in  1715,  first  erected 
the  standard  of  the  Pretender,  as  is  more  particularly 
noticed  in  the  article  on  Charlestown. 

The  parish  comprises  199,65S  acres,  of  which,  in 
comparison  with  the  extent  of  the  district,  but  few  are 
under  cultivation;  between  10,000  and  11,000  are 
under  wood,  natural  and  planted,  and  the  remainder  is 
arable  land,  hill  pasture,  mountains,  and  moor.  The 
scenery  of  the  whole  is  highly  diversified,  and  can 
scarcely,  for  grandeur  and  sublimity,  be  equalled  by 
any  in  the  county.  The  Braemar  district,  which  is 
especially  mountainous,  and  the  forests  of  which  are 
well  stocked  with  deer  and  game,  is  said  to  be  the 
highest  land  above  the  sea  in  Scotland,  and  the  furthest 
removed  in  every  direction  from  the  coast.  The  prin- 
cipal lochs  are  those  of  Callader  and  Bhrodichan,  in 
the  midst  of  hills  on  the  estate  of  Invercauld,  the  for- 
mer of  which  contains  salmon,  and  the  latter  red 
trout.  The  Dee,  which  rises  in  the  mouutain  of  Bre- 
riach,  from  a  fountain  4060  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  flows  through  the  parish  in  a  serpentine  course, 
augmented  by  numerous  tributaries,  and  displays  se- 
veral beautiful  cascades,  especially  one  called  the  Linn 
of  Dee.  It  falls  into  the  German  Ocean  more  than 
ninety  miles  from  its  source,  at  Aberdeen,  where  it 
forms  the  harbour  of  that  city.  The  most  lofty  moun- 
tain is  Bennamuickduidh,  rising  to  an  elevation  of  4390 
feet,  and  which,  by  a  recent  survey,  has  been  found 
to  be  twenty  feet  higher  than  Ben-Nevis,  previously 
reputed  the  highest  mountain  in  Britain.  Cairntoul 
229 


and  Bennabuird  are  respectively  4220  and  3940  feet 
above  the  sea,  and,  with  Bennamuickduidh,  are  the 
principal  elevations,  all  situated  on  the  north-west 
boundaries  of  Braemar :  Lochnagar,  on  the  south- 
eastern side  of  the  parish,  rises  3815  feet.  These  im- 
posing mountains,  covered  to  a  great  extent  with 
wood  of  almost  every  kind  and  hue,  and  exhibiting 
in  many  places  their  broken  and  boldly-shelving  cliffs, 
with  the  verdant  acclivities,  grassy  plains,  and  winding 
streams  ornamenting  the  lower  grounds,  form  together 
a  rich  assemblage  of  natural  beauties  which  can 
scarcely  fail  to  charm. 

The  soil  in  some  places  is  shallow  and  sandy,  and 
in  others  loamy  and  dry,  incumbent  on  clay  or  gravel. 
Oats  and  bear  are  raised,  and  the  green  crops  comprise 
turnips,  potatoes,  peas,  and  hay  ;  live  stock  is  much 
attended  to,  and  the  black-faced  sheep  and  small 
black-cattle  are  the  prevailing  breeds,  for  which  the 
large  quantity  of  hill  pasture  attached  to  each  farm 
affords  a  fine  range.  Agriculture  has  much  advanced 
within  these  few  years  ;  and  among  other  improvements 
many  stone  dykes  have  been  constructed  as  fences, 
and  several  secure  embankments  have  been  raised 
against  the  overflowings  of  the  river  Dee.  The  rocks, 
which  are  covered  with  a  thin  mossy  soil  of  dark  hue, 
are  chiefly  pure  granite,  of  different  colours,  and  of  so 
close  and  firm  a  texture  that,  when  highly  polished,  it 
resembles  marble.  Limestone  is  also  abundant,  masses 
of  which  protrude  in  many  places  ;  and  in  addition  to 
this,  there  is  a  species  of  very  hard  flinty  stone  or 
rock,  which  is  supposed  to  contain  a  portion  of  iron- 
ore.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £6600. 
The  natural  wood  consists  of  Scotch  fir,  birch,  moun- 
tain-ash, poplar,  and  alder  ;  and  the  plantations  contain 
the  various  firs,  but  chiefly  larch,  which  latter  is  of 
quick  growth,  and  is  much  esteemed  as  a  substitute, 
in  many  cases,  for  hard- wood,  to  the  growth  of  which 
the  climate  is  not  suited.  Some  of  the  firs  in  the 
forest  of  Mar  are  supposed  to  be  between  300  and  400 
years  of  age,  and  exhibit  specimens  rarely,  if  ever,  seen 
in  any  other  part  of  Britain.  The  mansion  of  Inver- 
cauld is  situated  in  the  beautiful  vale  washed  by  the 
Dee,  and  in  the  midst  of  plantations  ;  there  are  also 
the  mansions  of  Mar  Lodge  and  Corymulzie  Cottage  in 
Braemar,  and  Abergeldie  and  Balmoral  in  Crathie. 
Three  annual  fairs  are  held  at  Castletown,  two  prin- 
cipally for  cattle,  and  the  other  for  sheep  and  cattle  ; 
and  one  is  also  held  at  Clachnaturn,  in  Crathie.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Kincardine  O'Neil  and 
synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £233.  10.,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £8  per  annum.  The  church  of 
Crathie,  which  was  built  on  a  new  site,  in  1S06,  is  an 
elegant  structure,  containing  1400  sittings,  all  free.  An 
ordained  missionary  regularly  officiates  at  Castletown, 
and  there  is  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel  at  the  same  vil- 
lage ;  also  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church  in  the  parish.  The  parochial  school  affords 
instruction  in  the  usual  branches  ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £26,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  £8  fees. 
There  are  two  schools  for  boys,  and  three  for  girls, 
supported  by  the  Society  for  Promoting  Christian 
Knowledge  ;  a  school  is  supported  also  by  the  General 
Assembly,  and  two  schools  are  kept  in  Braemar,  during 
the    winter,    by    the     Roman    Catholics.      A    friendly 


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CRAW 


society  was  established  in  1815,  and  re-modelled  in 
1830,  under  the  title  of  the  Braemar  Highland  Society  ; 
its  annual  meeting  is  held  in  August,  when  many 
gentlemen  attend,  and  its  funds  are  appropriated  partly 
to  the  relief  of  sick  and  aged  members,  and  to  the 
purchase  of  annuities  for  widows  and  orphans,  and 
partly  to  the  encouragement  of  ancient  games.  A 
savings'  bank  was  instituted  in  1816,  and  has  now  a 
capital  of  upwards  of  £2000.  The  ruins  of  the  castle 
built  by  Malcum-Ceann-Mor  are  still  standing. 

CRAWFORD,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark  ;  including  the  village  of  Leadhills, 
and  containing  16S4  inhabitants,  of  whom  236  are  in 
the  village  of  Crawford,  3  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Abington. 
This  place  has  claims  to  a  considerable  degree  of  an- 
tiquity. In  943,  or  about  that  time,  a  church  was 
founded  here,  and  dedicated  to  Constantine,  King  of  Scot- 
land ;  and  the  lands  appear  to  have  been  subsequently 
divided  into  two  portions,  of  which  the  larger  was 
bestowed  on  the  abbey  of  Newbattle,  and  the  smaller  on 
the  monastery  of  Holyrood.  It  seems  to  have  been 
exposed  to  incessant  attacks  during  the  border  warfare 
and  the  feuds  of  rival  clans  ;  and  many  of  the  ancient 
farm-houses  were  constructed  as  well  for  the  purpose  of 
defence  against  an  assailing  foe  as  for  domestic  use. 
The  population  was  formerly  much  greater  than  at  pre- 
sent, and  the  lands  were  divided  among  a  larger  number 
of  tenants,  the  practice  of  joining  together  several  small 
farms  having,  for  the  last  century,  been  very  prevalent 
in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  parish  is  situated  in 
the  south-east  portion  of  the  county  ;  it  is  about  eighteen 
miles  in  length,  and  from  fourteen  to  fifteen  in  breadth, 
and  comprises  75,500  acres,  of  which  74,150  are  pas- 
ture, chiefly  sheep-walks,  1200  arable,  and  150  woods 
and  plantations.  The  surface  is  mountainous,  and 
broken  into  glens  and  spreading  valleys  in  almost  every 
direction  ;  among  the  highest  of  the  mountains  are 
those  of  Lowther,  which  are  chiefly  in  this  parish,  and 
have  an  average  elevation  of  about  2500  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  hills  in  general  rise  gradually  from  their  bases, 
and  afford  good  pasturage  for  sheep  ;  and  the  valleys 
between  them,  especially  such  as  have  been  improved 
by  draining,  are  fertile.  The  river  Clyde  has  its  source 
in  the  parish,  on  a  hill  1400  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  flows  in  a  gentle  stream  till  it  receives  the  river 
Daer  and  numerous  other  tributaries  in  its  course 
through  the  parish.  There  are  springs  of  excellent 
water,  affording  an  abundant  supply. 

The  soil  of  the  arable  land  is  rich  on  the  banks  of  the 
Clyde,  and  also  near  the  streams  which  fall  into  that 
river,  especially  at  their  influx  ;  but  in  the  other  parts 
of  the  parish  it  is  very  various,  though  great  improve- 
ments have  been  made  by  the  use  of  lime  and  the  intro- 
duction of  green  crops.  The  chief  crops  are  oats,  which 
thrive  well,  and  the  dairy-farms,  though  few,  are  pro- 
fitably managed,  affording,  besides  the  produce  of  the 
dairy,  excellent  opportunities  of  rearing  young  cattle,  of 
which,  however,  not  many  are  raised  here.  The  sheep 
are  mostly  of  the  Cheviot  breed,  to  which  the  former 
stock  of  short  and  black  faced  sheep  has  given  place, 
and  which  has  been  very  much  improved.  Wood  does 
not  thrive  well,  though  there  are  several  trees  of  great 
age,  which  are  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
forest ;  and  a  charter  in  the  possession  of  the  Marquess 
of  Lothian  is  still  extant,  in  which  the  inhabitants  of 
230 


the  parish  of  Crawford  are  invested  with  liberty  to  cut 
wood  in  the  forest  of  Glengonar.  The  substratum  of 
the  soil  is  partially  transition  rock,  and  greywacke  in 
all  its  various  formations  is  prevalent.  Slate,  though 
not  of  very  good  quality,  is  found,  and  a  quarry  has 
been  opened  on  the  lands  of  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun, 
which  gives  employment  to  a  few  men  throughout  the 
year.  The  mining  district  of  the  parish  is  extensive, 
comprising  an  area  of  three  miles  in  length,  and  of 
nearly  equal  breadth,  and  is  rich  in  a  great  variety  of 
produce  :  a  populous  village  has  been  erected  within 
this  district,  which  is  described  under  the  appellation  of 
Leadhills.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£12,341.  The  principal  mansion-houses  are,  the  Hall, 
belonging  to  the  earl,  and  Newton  House,  the  seat  of 
the  late  Lord  Newton,  by  whom  it  was  erected,  in  a 
substantial  and  handsome  style. 

The  village  of  Crawford  is  of  considerable  antiquity, 
and  formerly  enjoyed  numerous  privileges,  being  go- 
verned by  a  bailie,  and  having,  till  lately,  a  court  called 
a  Birley  court ;  it  is  situated  on  the  road  to  Glasgow, 
and  the  inhabitants  are  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture. 
A  handsome  chain-bridge  was  constructed  over  the 
Clyde  at  this  place,  in  1831,  at  the  expense  of  the 
heritors;  and  an  elegant  stone  bridge  was  erected  over 
the  same  river,  at  Newton,  in  1824,  affording  a  facility 
of  communication  with  the  neighbouring  towns.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Lanark  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £233.  13., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £13.  10.  per  an- 
num ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  church,  an  ancient 
structure  in  good  repair,  is  conveniently  situated,  and 
affords  accommodation  to  about  300  persons.  There  is 
a  chapel  in  connexion  with  the  Established  Church  at 
Leadhills,  the  minister  of  which  has  a  stipend  of  £70, 
with  a  house,  provided  by  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun  and  the 
Mining  Company.  The  parochial  school  affords  a  good 
education  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £16 
fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  There  are  several  mine- 
ral springs,  two  of  which,  in  their  properties,  resemble 
those  of  Moffat ;  and  near  the  boundary  of  the  parish, 
at  Campshead,  is  a  petrifying  spring,  in  which  many 
beautiful  specimens  are  found.  Among  the  principal 
remains  of  antiquity  is  the  castle  of  Crawford,  which 
was  surrounded  by  a  moat,  and  strongly  fortified  ;  and 
there  are  still  preserved  memorials  of  ecclesiastical  edi- 
fices formerly  existing  in  the  parish,  of  which  one  is  an 
ancient  cemetery  on  the  banks  of  a  stream  called  Chapel 
Burn.  There  are  also  several  Roman  camps,  of  which 
the  most  perfect  are,  one  on  Boadsbcrry  hill,  and  an- 
other on  a  farm  called  Whitecamp  ;  the  two  Roman 
roads  by  Moffat  and  Dumfries  united  in  this  parish,  and 
formed  one  great  road  towards  Lamington.  An  urn  of 
baked  earth,  containing  fragments  of  bones,  was  dis- 
covered some  years  since  on  the  castle  farm.  The  cele- 
brated poet,  Allan  Ramsay,  was  born  at  Leadhills,  where 
he  resided  till  his  removal  to  Edinburgh  ;  and  James 
Taylor,  to  whom  is  attributed  the  first  discovery  of  the 
application  of  steam  to  the  propelling  of  vessels  on  the 
sea,  and  who  assisted  Mr.  Miller  of  Dalswinton  in  mak- 
ing some  successful  experiments  in  1788,  was  the  son 
of  one  of  the  overseers  in  the  mines  at  Leadhills. 

CRAWFORDJOHN,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper  ward 
of  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  including  the  post-village  of 
Abington,  and  containing  993  inhabitants,  of  whom  137 


CRAW 


CRAW 


are  in  the  village  of  Crawfordjohn.  This  place,  of  which 
the  name  is  supposed  to  have  been  derived  from  some 
proprietor  of  lands  within  the  district,  appears  to  have 
been  originally  a  chapelry  in  the  parish  of  Wiston. 
It  was  granted,  together  with  the  church  of  that  place, 
to  the  monastery  of  Glasgow,  and  subsequently  to  that 
of  Kelso,  which  retained  it  till  about  the  year  1450, 
when  it  became  a  separate  and  independent  parish. 
The  lands  coming  into  the  possession  of  two  co-heiresses, 
were  for  a  considerable  time  held  in  moieties,  till,  in  the 
reign  of  James  V.,  Sir  James  Hamilton  of  Fiuart  ob- 
tained them.  After  his  decease,  they  descended  to  the 
Hamiltons  of  this  place  and  Avondale,  from  whom, 
together  with  the  patronage  of  the  church,  they  were 
purchased  by  James,  Marquess  of  Hamilton,  about  the 
year  16'20.  In  the  reign  of  Charles  II.,  the  village  of 
Crawfordjohn  was,  by  charter  granted  to  Anne,  Duchess 
of  Hamilton,  made  a  burgh  of  barony,  and  the  inhabit- 
ants were  endowed  with  the  privilege  of  a  weekly  mar- 
ket and  several  annual  fairs,  which  have  long  been  in 
disuse.  Few  events  of  historical  importance  are  con- 
nected with  the  place  :  part  of  the  rebel  forces  passed 
through  it  on  their  march  to  Glasgow,  in  the  year 
1745. 

The  parish  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  Duneaton,  which  partly  separates  it  on  the  north 
from  the  parish  of  Douglas  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  south 
by  the  river  Glengonner.  On  the  east  flows  the  river 
Clyde,  and  on  the  west  are  the  counties  of  Dumfries 
and  Ayr,  which  unite  with  that  of  Lanark  on  the  border 
of  the  parish,  at  a  point  where  a  stone  has  been  erected 
called  the  Three-shire  stone.  The  length  of  the  parish 
is  nearly  twelve  miles,  and  its  breadth,  which  may  be 
averaged  at  nine,  varies  from  two  to  ten  miles,  com- 
prising an  irregular  area  of  26,600  acres,  of  which  4200 
are  arable,  about.  60  plantations,  and  the  remainder 
pasture  for  sheep.  The  surface  is  sometimes  flat,  and 
inclosed  by  gently  sloping  hills  of  various  elevation, 
forming  a  spacious  glen,  through  which  the  river  Dun- 
eaton winds  its  course  for  nearly  nine  miles,  receiving  in 
its  progress  the  waters  of  the  Snar,  Blackburn,  and 
other  streams.  The  rivers  abound  with  trout,  and  the 
Blackburn  is  celebrated  for  a  dark-coloured  species, 
which  excel  in  quality,  and  are  in  great  request,  and 
also  for  eels,  of  which  some  are  of  large  growth. 

The  soil  is  extremely  various  ;  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  it  is  a  rich  black  loam,  except  in  those  parts  which 
are  subject  to  inundation,  where  it  becomes  mixed  with 
sand  and  gravel.  The  sides  of  the  hills  are  in  some 
places  a  deep  red  clay,  capable,  under  proper  manage- 
ment, of  producing  excellent  crops  ;  and  in  several  parts 
is  a  deep  moss,  which,  after  judicious  draining,  has  in 
many  instances  been  converted  into  fertile  arable  land. 
The  principal  crops  are,  oats,  bear,  potatoes,  and  turnips. 
The  pastures  are  very  rich  ;  the  meadows  afford  abun- 
dant crops  of  clover  and  rye-grass,  and  the  hills  yield 
good  pasturage  for  sheep,  of  which  the  average  number 
permanently  kept  in  the  parish  exceeds  10,000.  There 
are  several  large  dairy-farms  producing  butter  and 
cheese,  which  are  of  excellent  quality,  and  find  a  ready 
market  at  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  ;  and  a  peculiar  kind 
of  cheese  compounded  of  cows'  and  ewes' milk  obtains  a 
high  price,  and  is  in  great  demand.  The  average  num- 
ber of  cows  exceeds  1000,  chiefly  of  the  Ayrshire  breed, 
to  the  improvement  of  which  much  attention  has  been 
231 


paid  ;  the  sheep  are  of  the  black-faced  kind,  except  a  few 
of  a  mixed  breed  between  the  Cheviot  and  the  Leicester. 
The  plantations,  which  are  chiefly  at  Glespin,  Gilkers- 
cleugh,  and  Abington,  are  Scotch  fir,  spruce,  beech, 
lime,  chesnut,  and  oak.  Some  advance  has  been  made 
in  draining  and  inclosing  the  lands  ;  and  a  society  for 
encouraging  the  improvement  of  live  stock  has  been 
established  by  the  farmers  of  this  and  the  parish  of 
Crawford,  which  has  been  sanctioned  by  many  of  the 
heritors  in  both.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £6329. 

The  substratum  of  the  soil  and  the  bases  of  the  hills 
are  mostly  whinstone  and  freestone,  of  which  several 
quarries  are  worked  ;  limestone  is  also  prevalent,  and 
works  have  been  established  at  Whitecleugh  and  "Wild- 
shaw.  There  are  indications  of  coal  in  several  parts  of 
the  parish,  though  no  works  have  been  opened ;  lead- 
ore  has  been  found  at  Craighead,  and  near  the  source  of 
the  Snar,  at  which  latter  place  it  is  wrought.  Some 
vestiges  remain  of  a  work  opened  at  Abington  for  the 
discovery  of  gold  ;  and  in  repairing  a  road  some  years 
since,  several  pieces  of  spar,  in  which  copper  was  im- 
bedded, were  found  among  the  rubbish.  There  is  also 
a  tradition  that  silver-mines  were  formerly  wrought  in 
the  parish,  though  probably  it  might  have  originated  in 
finding  small  portions  of  that  metal  in  combination  with 
the  lead-ore.  A  subscription  library  has  been  esta- 
blished in  the  village  of  Crawfordjohn,  and  there  is 
likewise  one  supported  at  Abington.  The  parish  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Lanark  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and 
Ayr.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £233.  13.,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £16  per  annum  ;  patron,  Sir  T. 
E.  Colebrooke.  The  church,  which  is  conveniently 
situated,  was  enlarged  in  1S17,  and  will  accommodate 
300  persons.  The  parochial  school  is  attended  by  about 
seventy  scholars ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £32,  with 
£26  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  There  were  for- 
merly the  remains  of  the  castles  of  Crawfordjohn,  Moss- 
castle,  Glendorch,  and  Snar,  the  last  of  which  was  cele- 
brated for  the  exploits  of  its  proprietor  during  the  border 
warfare.  On  a  hill  near  Gilkerscleugh  are  traces  of  a 
circular  encampment  consisting  of  two  concentric  circles, 
the  innermost  of  which  is  about  thirty  yards  in  dia- 
meter, and  has  between  it  and  the  outer  an  interval  of 
ten  yards.  There  are  vestiges  of  a  similar  intrench- 
ment  near  Abington  ;  and  on  the  bank  of  the  river 
Clyde  is  a  moat,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  mound 
about  fifty  yards  in  circumference  at  the  base,  and 
thirty  feet  in  height.  In  the  peat-bogs  are  frequently 
discovered  alder-trees  and  hazel  in  a  prostrate  position, 
and,  at  various  times,  coins  of  Antoninus,  and  others  of 
the  reign  of  Edward  I. 

CRAWFURD'S  -  DYKE,  Renfrewshire.  —  See 
Cartsdyke. 

CRAWICKBRIDGE  and  CRAWICKMILL, villages, 
in  the  parish  of  Sanquhar,  county  of  Dumfries,  1  mile 
(N.N.  W.)  from  Sanquhar;  the  one  containing  71,  and 
the  other  144  inhabitants.  These  places  are  situated  on 
the  beautiful  stream  of  the  Crawick,  which  separates  the 
parish  from  Kirkconnel,  and,  after  a  south-west  course 
of  about  nine  miles,  falls  into  the  Nith  near  the  manse  of 
Sanquhar.  At  Crawickmill  is  an  extensive  carpet  manu- 
factory, in  which  upwards  of  a  hundred  persons  are  em- 
ployed in  the  various  processes  of  dyeing,  spinning,  and 
weaving  the  materials. 


CREE 


C  R  EI 


CRAWTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dunnottar, 
county  of  Kincardine,  3|  miles  (S.)  from  Stonehaven; 
containing  77  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  the  south- 
eastern part  of  the  parish,  and  chiefly  inhabited  by  per- 
sons employed  in  fishing,  and  has  a  small  harbour  well 
adapted  for  the  purpose.  The  fish  taken  off  this  part  of 
the  coast  are,  haddock,  whiting,  cod,  ling,  skate,  halibut, 
flounders,  and  a  few  turbot ;  and  lobsters  of  good  quality 
are  also  found  in  abundance. 

CREAN-MULL  ISLES,  two  of  the  Hebrides,  in  the 
parish  of  Barra,  county  of  Inverness.  They  are  of 
very  small  extent,  and  are  uninhabited  :  both  lie  in  the 
Sound  of  Pabbay,  between  the  islands  of  Pabbay  and 
Saundray,  and  a  litle  east  of  Lingay. 

CREEBRIDGE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Minni- 
gaff,  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  §  a  mile  (E.)  from 
Newton-Stewart ;  containing  262  inhabitants.  This  place 
consists  of  a  street  of  good  houses,  recently  built  near 
a  bridge  over  the  Cree,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
below  the  village  of  Minnigaff.  The  bridge,  from  which 
it  takes  its  name,  is  a  handsome  structure  of  granite,  of 
five  arches.  The  Cree  rises  on  the  border  of  Ayrshire, 
and  for  several  miles  of  its  course  is  inconsiderable,  but 
increased  by  tributary  streams,  it  changes  its  appearance, 
and,  pursuing  its  way  through  a  beautiful  valley,  empties 
itself  into  the  bay  of  Wigton.  It  is  navigable  for  some 
miles. 

CREETOWN,  a  burgh  of  barony,  and  port,  in  the 
parish  of  Kirkmabreck,  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright, 
6  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Newton-Stewart ;  containing  984  in- 
habitants. This  place,  which  takes  its  name  from  its 
situation  on  the  river  Cree,  is  of  some  antiquity,  and  under 
the  name  of  "  Creth,"  was  the  rendezvous  of  the  English 
army  in  1300.  It  appears  to  have  been  of  considerable 
extent,  and  from  a  ferry  over  the  river,  obtained  subse- 
quently the  name  of  the  Ferry-Town  of  Cree.  It  is  pro- 
bable that  the  ancient  village  had  fallen  into  decay  before 
the  erection  of  the  present  town,  which  was  commenced 
in  1785,  and  in  1792  contained  only  fifty  houses.  The 
town  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  Wigton  bay,  and  consists  of  several  streets, 
irregularly  formed,  but  containing  well-built  houses. 
The  surrounding  scenery  in  every  direction  is  beautifully 
picturesque,  and  enlivened  with  handsome  mansions  and 
pleasing  villas. 

A  cotton  factory,  a  tannery,  and  a  mill  for  making 
patent-shot,  were  for  some  years  in  active  operation,  but 
have  been  long  discontinued.  The  manufacture  of  car- 
pets, affording  employment  to  about  thirty  persons,  is 
carried  on  in  the  buildings  of  the  old  cotton-factory, 
and  the  shot-mill  has  been  recently  adapted  to  the  pur- 
poses of  a  cast-iron  foundry.  The  trade  of  the  port  is 
mainly  in  the  shipping  of  granite  for  Liverpool,  in  which 
several  schooners  are  employed  ;  there  is  a  small  coast- 
ing trade,  chiefly  with  Whitehaven,  and  foreign  vessels 
occasionally  land  cargoes  of  timber  and  tar.  There  is 
no  harbour,  and  the  vessels  are  moored  upon  the  beach. 
The  town  was  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony  by  charter 
granted  to  its  proprietor,  John  Mc  Culloch,  Esq.,  of 
Barholm,  in  1791,  and  is  governed  by  a  bailie  and  four 
councillors,  elected  triennially  by  the  tenants.  A  town- 
hall  with  a  small  prison  has  been  lately  built.  There  is 
a  post-office,  and  every  facility  of  communication  is 
afforded  by  good  roads,  and  by  the  ferry  across  the  Cree 
to  Wigton. 
232 


CREICH,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cupar,  county 
of  Fife,  5  miles  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from  Cupar;  containing, 
with  the  villages  of  Brunton  and  Luthrie,  430  inhabitants. 
This  place  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name,  signify- 
ing in  the  Gaelic  language,  rocky  or  rugged  ground, 
from  the  general  appearance  of  its  surface.  It  was  at  an 
early  period  the  property  of  the  Bethune  family,  who 
had  a  baronial  castle  here,  of  which  there  are  still  some 
inconsiderable  remains.  The  parish  is  about  three  miles 
in  length,  from  north  to  south,  varying  from  one  mile  to 
nearly  two  miles  in  breadth ;  and  comprises  about  2324 
acres,  of  which  1S03  are  arable,  204  woodland  and  plan- 
tations, and  the  remainder  pasture  and  waste.  The  sur- 
face is  greatly  broken  by  numerous  hills,  forming  part 
of  the  Ochill  range,  but  of  which  few  within  the  parish 
have  an  elevation  of  more  than  550  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  acclivities  of  some  of  these  hills  are  cultivated  from 
the  base  to  the  summit ;  others  are  covered  with  heath, 
and  partly  with  thriving  plantations.  Several  small 
streams  rise  in  various  parts,  and  unite  near  the  village 
of  Luthrie,  and  form  the  river  Motray,  which,  after 
flowing  through  the  parish,  falls  into  the  Eden.  The 
surrounding  scenery  is  beautifully  varied,  and  from  the 
hills  are  fine  views  of  the  river  Tay,  the  carse  of  Gowrie, 
with  the  Sidlaw  and  Grampian  mountains,  the  town  of 
Dundee,  and  the  distant  heights  of  Ben-Ledi  and  Ben- 
Lawers. 

The  soil,  which  has  been  much  improved  by  draining, 
is  mostly  fertile  ;  the  best  system  of  husbandry  has  been 
long  in  use,  and  the  lands  are  generally  under  excellent 
cultivation.  The  crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  peas, 
potatoes,  and  turnips.  The  cattle  are  chiefly  of  the  old 
Fifeshire  breed,  with  a  few  of  the  Teeswater  upon  one  of 
the  farms,  and  are  usually  fattened  when  three  years 
old,  and  sent  to  the  market.  The  sheep,  which  are  of 
various  breeds,  are  bought  in  when  young,  in  August, 
and  sold  when  fat,  in  the  June  following.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3323.  The  rocks  are 
mainly  of  the  trap  formation,  and  the  substrata  princi- 
pally amygdaloid,  resting  on  claystone,  felspar,  and 
greenstone  ;  basaltic  clinkstone  is  found  in  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  parish,  and  extensively  quarried  for 
building  purposes,  and  for  the  roads.  There  is  also  a 
quarry  of  sandstone  in  operation.  The  plantations  are 
chiefly  larch,  Scotch  and  spruce  firs,  interspersed  with 
various  hard-woods ;  and  on  the  demesne  of  Luthrie  are 
some  fine  elms,  planes,  and  horse-chesnuts  of  stately 
growth.  Luthrie  House  is  a  handsome  mansion,  finely 
situated  in  a  well-planted  demesne. 

A  considerable  number  of  the  inhabitants  are  em- 
ployed in  the  hand-loom  weaving  of  Osnaburghs,  sheet- 
ings, and  dowlas,  for  the  manufacturers  of  Cupar,  who 
have  two  agents  here.  Facility  of  communication  is 
afforded  by  the  road  from  Cupar  to  Perth.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod  of  Fife.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  £227.  14.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£8  per  annum ;  patrons,  the  family  of  Grant.  The 
church,  erected  in  1832,  is  a  handsome  structure,  con- 
taining 252  sittings  ;  it  has  a  marble  monument  to  Mrs. 
Baillie,  widow  of  the  late  Col.  Baillie,  of  Luthrie.  The 
communion-plate  was  purchased  with  the  proceeds  of  a 
bequest  of  Mr.  George  Davidson,  parochial  schoolmaster, 
who  died  in  1745.  The  parochial  school  is  attended  by 
about  seventy  children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 


C  RI  C 


CRIE 


with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £18. 
Some  Druidical  remains,  consisting  of  portions  of  con- 
centric circles,  have  been  discovered  on  one  of  the  hills 
in  the  parish  ;  and  on  the  hill  called  the  Greencraig, 
were  found  the  remains  of  what  is  supposed  to  have  been 
a  Danish  camp.  Two  sepulchral  urns  and  two  stone 
coffins  were  found  to  the  west  of  Parbroath,  containing 
human  bones  ;  and  near  the  remains  of  the  ancient  house 
was  formerly  a  chapel,  not  far  from  the  site  of  which 
several  graves  were  discovered,  while  digging  for  the 
foundation  of  a  wall,  a  few  years  since. 

CRICHTON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Edinburgh  ; 
including  the  village  of  Pathhead,  and  part  of  Faladam, 
and  containing  13S4  inhabitants,  of  whom  IS?  are  in 
the  village  of  Crichton,  2  miles  (S.)  from  Ford.  This 
place  is  of  considerable  antiquity,  and  was  known  to  the 
Romans.  Upon  the  property  of  Longfaugh  are  the 
remains  of  a  Roman  camp,  the  lines  and  intrenchments 
of  which  are  well  defined  ;  and  there  is  no  doubt  as  to 
the  ancient  occupation  of  the  place  by  armies,  of  the 
particulars  of  whose  operations  in  these  parts  we  have 
no  information.  Crichton  was  anciently  remarkable 
for  its  church,  which  was  made  collegiate  in  1449,  by 
Sir  William  Crichton,  chancellor  of  Scotland,  with  the 
consent  of  James,  his  son ;  and  a  provost,  eight  pre- 
bendaries, and  two  singing  boys  were  supported  out  of 
the  rents  of  Crichton  and  Locherworth.  It  was  a  men- 
sal  church,  belonging  to  the  archbishop  of  St.  Andrew's ; 
but  the  bishop  had  the  patronage  of  the  prebends  of 
Vogrie,  Arniston,  Middleton,  and  Locherworth.  After 
the  Reformation,  Sir  Gideon  Murray,  the  last  provost, 
obtained  a  license  to  convert  the  church  lands  of  Crichton, 
with  the  tithes  formerly  belonging  to  the  rectory,  into 
a  temporal  estate.  He  was  treasurer-depute  to  James 
VI.,  and  died  in  1621,  leaving  the  estate  to  his  son. 
Patrick,  who,  in  1643,  was  created  Lord  Elibank  :  the 
lands  are  now  possessed  by  William  Burn  Callender, 
Esq.  The  celebrated  castle  of  Crichton,  supposed  to 
have  been  partly  erected  in  the  fourteenth  century,  was 
formerly  the  residence  of  the  Chancellor  Crichton 
already  mentioned,  joint  guardian  with  the  Earl  of  Cal- 
lender of  James  II.  during  his  minority,  and  the  promoter 
of  the  vigorous  measures  against  the  powerful  Douglas. 
While  Crichton  held  the  castle,  it  was  besieged  and 
partly  demolished  by  William,  Earl  of  Douglas,  after  a 
resistance  of  nine  months  ;  but  it  was  restored  with 
great  splendour,  and  received  additions  at  various  times, 
until  it,  at  length,  assumed  the  appearance  of  one  of  the 
most  magnificent  structures  of  this  kind  in  the  country. 
Though  now  in  ruins,  it  is  a  solid  massive  building,  of 
extremely  venerable  and  imposing  appearance.  The 
oldest  part  of  the  castle  is  a  narrow  keep  or  tower ; 
but  so  many  additions  were  made  subsequently  to  the 
erection  of  this  part  that  there  is  now  a  large  court- 
yard, surrounded  by  buildings  of  different  ages.  The 
eastern  front  of  the  court  is  raised  above  a  portico,  and 
decorated  with  entablatures  bearing  anchors.  The  stones 
of  this  front  are  cut  into  diamond  facets,  of  extremely 
rich  appearance  ;  and  within  this  portion  of  the  edifice, 
there  appears  to  have  been  a  gallery  of  unusual  size 
and  elegance. 

The   parish,  which  is  situated  in   the  eastern  extre- 
mity of  the  county,  is  about  five  miles  and  a  half  long, 
and  four  and  a  half  broad,  and   contains  about  3900 
Scotch  acres.     The  surface  consists  of  a  continued  suc- 
Vol.  I. — 233 


cession  of  undulations  and  hollows  throughout;  a  con- 
siderable part,  in  the  higher  grounds,  is  covered  with 
wood,  and  about  450  acres  are  moorland  and  outfield. 
The  river  Tyne  rises  in  the  upper  district  of  the  parish, 
and,  after  running  towards  the  north  for  twoor  threemiles, 
makes  a  bend  to  the  east,  passes  through  the  county  of 
Haddington,  and  falls  into  the  sea  near  Dunbar.  The 
soil  in  the  lower  grounds  is  mostly  a  deep  rich  mould, 
producing  heavy  crops  ;  in  some  other  places  it  is  dry 
and  sharp,  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  turnips,  which 
are  cultivated  to  a  considerable  extent.  On  the  high 
lands,  it  consists  of  thin  moss  resting  upon  a  wet  sand 
or  clay,  unsuited  to  husbandry,  but  congenial  to  the 
growth  of  trees,  some  of  which  thrive  very  well.  About 
3300  acres  of  land  are  in  tillage,  and  all  kinds  of  grain 
of  good  quality  are  produced,  as  well  as  potatoes, 
turnips,  and  hay.  Several  hundreds  of  acres,  before 
considered  intractable,  have  been  brought  into  profit- 
able cultivation  within  the  present  century,  and  im- 
provements in  this  branch  of  husbandry  are  still  in 
progress.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£561 0. 

The  rocks  consist  chiefly  of  limestone  of  a  superior 
description,  large  quantities  of  which  have  been,  for 
many  years,  sent  to  Edinburgh  for  the  purposes  of 
building;  much  of  it  is  also  sent  southward,  to  be  em- 
ployed as  manure.  Coal  is  found  in  different  parts  of 
the  parish,  in  thin  seams,  but  no  pits  have  been  opened. 
The  great  road  to  the  south,  leading  by  Lauder,  passes 
through  Pathhead,  where  a  splendid  bridge  has  recently 
been  erected  over  the  Tyne,  consisting  of  five  arches, 
each  eighty  feet  high,  by  fifty  feet  span.  There  is  a 
post-office,  and  several  coaches  run  on  the  turnpike- 
road.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  pres- 
bytery of  Dalkeith  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweed- 
dale  ;  patron,  Mr.  Callender.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£264,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per 
annum.  The  church,  which  is  a  fine  ancient  structure 
in  the  form  of  a  cross,  was  the  collegiate  church  ;  it  was 
thoroughly  repaired  about  twenty-five  years  ago,  and  will 
accommodate  600  persons.  At  Pathhead  is  a  place  of 
worship  for  seceders.  There  is  also  a  parochial  school, 
in  which  the  usual  branches  of  education  are  taught ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house,  and  £26 
fees.  A  good  circulating  library  is  supported  at  Path- 
head,  and  the  parish  contains  two  friendly  societies. 

CRIECH,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Sutherland, 
llj  miles  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Tain;  containing,  with  the 
village  of  Bonar,  25S2  inhabitants.  This  place  is  famed 
for  a  contest  which  happened  in  the  eleventh  or  twelfth 
century,  between  the  Scots  and  the  Danes,  at  Druimleah, 
near  Bonar-Bridge,  whence  the  invaders,  after  being 
completely  routed,  retired  to  their  ships  at  Portna- 
coulter,  at  present  called  the  Meikle  Ferry.  It  is  an  ex- 
tensive parish,  in  length  about  forty  miles,  and  six  miles 
in  average  breadth,  and  contains  about  150,000  acres. 
The  general  appearance  of  the  surface  is  hilly,  approxi- 
mating in  many  parts  to  the  character  of  a  mountainous 
district,  and  a  small  proportion  only  of  its  area  is  under 
cultivation,  the  rest  being  covered  with  natural  wood 
and  heath.  At  Ledmore  is  a  fine  oak-wood  of  about 
150  acres;  and  in  several  other  parts  there  is  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  natural  wood,  as  well  as  of  planta- 
tions. A  large  extent  of  ground  on  the  estates  of  Skibo 
and  Pulrossie  was  planted  with  fir  and  larch  about  forty 

2  H 


C  R  I  E 


C  R  I  E 


years  ago,  to  which  about  1500  acres  have  been  added 
by  the  present  proprietor,  with  an  intermixture  of  oak 
and  other  forest  trees.  Other  plantations  have  been 
made  within  the  last  few  years,  and  the  extent  of  the 
whole  of  them  throughout  the  parish  is  now  calculated 
at  2500  acres.  The  rivers  are,  the  Shin,  the  Oykell,  a 
considerable  stream,  and  the  Cassley,  the  two  last  of 
which  join  at  the  southern  extremity,  and  form  the 
Frith  of  Dornoch  ;  they  all  contain  salmon,  which  are 
regularly  taken,  and  sturgeons  are  also  sometimes  seen 
in  the  Shin.  There  are  likewise  several  lakes,  the  most 
considerable  of  which  are  Migdol,  Gour,  and  Elst,  all 
abounding  with  small  good-flavoured  trout. 

The  prevailing  soil  is  the  gravelly  peaty  kind  usual 
in  mountainous  districts.  At  Pulrossie,  Flode,  Rosehall, 
and  some  other  places  near  the  Frith,  there  is  an  ad- 
mixture of  clay,  and  the  hills  in  the  vicinity  of  Rosehall 
form  a  fine  natural  pasture,  and  are  covered  with  sheep. 
The  largest  corn-farm  produces  about  £300  per  annum, 
and  the  others,  amounting  to  about  six  in  number,  re- 
turn severally  from  £50  to  £200  :  the  only  sheep-farms 
are  at  Auchinduich  and  Inverchasly,  and  the  breed  on 
each  is  the  Cheviot.  Great  improvements  have  been 
made  within  these  few  years,  particularly  on  the  two  es- 
tates just  named,  consisting  chiefly  in  the  reclaiming  of 
waste  lands,  draining,  and  irrigation.  The  rateable  an- 
nual value  of  the  parish  is  £4811.  There  are  two  quarries 
of  whinstone,  but  both  very  hard  to  work ;  and  at  Rose- 
hall is  a  vein,  about  five  inches  wide,  of  fine-grained, 
solid,  bluish-grey  manganese,  perfect  and  free  from  iron, 
but  which,  though  valuable  for  its  quality,  is  of  too  in- 
considerable extent  to  repay  the  expense  of  working. 
A  village  and  a  cotton  manufactory  were  established  at 
Spinningdale  by  Mr.  Dempster,  of  Dunnichen,  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  last  century ;  but,  the  factory  being 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1809,  the  village  has  since  fallen  to 
decay.  The  neighbouring  village  of  Bonar  has,  how- 
ever, increased  in  extent  and  importance,  especially  since 
the  erection  of  the  great  iron  bridge  in  1812,  and  vessels 
now  trade  to  it,  of  from  thirty  to  sixty  tons'  burthen, 
importing  meal,  coal,  and  lime,  and  exporting  fir-props, 
wool,  oak-bark,  corn,  and  salmon.  Newton  is  also  a 
shipping-place  for  articles  of  the  same  kind.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Dornoch 
and  synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caithness  ;  patrons,  the 
Crown  and  the  Duke  of  Sutherland.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  £209,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£5  per  annum.  The  church,  a  plain  structure,  built  in 
1790,  is  in  good  condition,  and  accommodates  500  per- 
sons with  sittings.  A  place  of  worship  has  been  erected 
in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church.  There  is  also  a 
parochial  school,  for  which  a  new  school-house  has  been 
built ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  some 
small  fees.  The  relics  of  antiquity  comprise  numerous 
tumuli,  a  vitrified  fort  on  the  summit  of  the  Doune  or 
Hill  of  Criech,  and  an  obelisk  near  the  church,  eight 
feet  long  and  four  broad,  erected,  according  to  tradition, 
in  memory  of  a  Danish  chief  who  fell  near  the  spot. 
There  are  also  various  chalybeate  springs  in  the  parish. 
CRIEFF,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth  ;  con- 
taining 4333  inhabitants,  of  whom  3584  are  in  the 
town  of  Crieff,  17  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Perth,  and 
56  (N.  W.)  from  Edinburgh.  This  place,  of  which  the 
name,  of  Gaelic  origin,  is  derived  from  its  situation  on 
the  side  of  a  hill,  appears,  from  various  old  documents, 
234 


to  have  been,  at  a  very  remote  period,  the  spot  where 
the  ancient  thane  of  the  district  usually  held  his  court 
in  the  open  air,  and  dispensed  justice  to  the  inha- 
bitants. It  was  from  an  early  date  regarded  as  the 
chief  town  of  Strathearn,  and  was  the  seat  of  an  earl- 
dom until  the  heiress  of  Malise,  the  last  earl,  marrying 
the  English  Earl  de  Warren,  was  led  into  rebellion 
against  Robert  I.,  in  1320.  It  continued,  however,  to 
be  the  capital  of  that  district,  and  was  the  seat  of  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  king's  steward  of  Strathearn,  which 
office  became  hereditary  in  the  family  of  Drummond, 
with  whom  it  remained  till  the-  abolition  of  hereditary 
jurisdictions  in  1748.  About  halfamileto  the  east  of 
the  town,  is  a  spot  till  of  late  surrounded  with  a  low 
wall  of  earth  and  stone,  now  hardly  to  be  traced.  Here 
the  courts  were  held  ;  and  a  little  to  the  west  of  the 
town,  is  a  rising  ground  where  criminals  were  executed, 
and  which  still  retains  the  appellation  of  Gallow  Hill. 
The  town  was  occupied  by  the  army  of  Montrose 
during  some  of  the  disturbances  of  the  civil  war,  but 
was  at  other  times  the  head-quarters  of  the  insurgent 
forces.  It  was  burnt  by  the  Highlanders  in  1715,  and 
in  the  rebellion  of  1745  was  saved  from  destruction 
only  by  the  interposition  of  the  Duke  of  Perth.  During 
all  these  conflicts  the  inhabitants  maintained  a  firm 
and  stedfast  loyalty  to  their  legitimate  sovereign.  On 
the  10th  of  September,  1S42,  the  town  was  visited  by 
Her  Majesty,  in  the  course  of  her  tour  in  Scotland ; 
she  was  rapturously  received  by  the  inhabitants  of  the 
place,  by  whom  a  triumphal  arch  had  been  erected  at 
the  entrance  of  the  town,  and  through  this  the  Queen 
passed  to  Drummond  Castle,  in  the  vicinity. 

The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  sloping  accli- 
vity of  an  eminence  near  the  base  of  the  Grampian  hills, 
commanding  an  extensive  and  richly-varied  prospect  of 
the  country  towards  the  south,  which  is  in  a  state  of 
high  cultivation,  and  thickly  studded  with  the  resi- 
dences of  the  gentry.  It  consists  of  one  principal  or 
high  street,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  St.  James's-square, 
a  handsome  range  of  building,  and  of  several  other 
well-built  streets,  one  of  which  leads  to  a  bridge  over  the 
river  Earn,  affording  a  communication  with  the  parish 
of  Muthill.  The  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  with 
excellent  water  from  springs  in  the  immediate  vicinity, 
from  which  it  is  conveyed  into  a  reservoir  in  the 
centre  of  St.  James's-square,  where  a  handsome  building 
of  stone  has  been  erected,  which,  surrounded  with 
some  lime-trees  of  great  beauty,  forms  an  interesting 
and  picturesque  ornament  in  the  town.  Nearly  in  the 
centre  of  the  high  street  is  the  ancient  cross,  of  rude 
workmanship,  consisting  of  a  block  of  stone  raised  on 
a  plinth  of  hewn  stone.  It  is  about  six  feet  three 
inches  high,  about,  two  feet  in  breadth,  and  little  more 
than  six  inches  in  thickness  ;  the  front  is  embellished 
with  a  cross,  carved  in  relief,  and  there  are  traces  of  a 
legend,  of  which  the  characters  are  so  greatly  obli- 
terated by  time,  as  to  be  altogether  illegible.  A  sub- 
scription library  has  been  established,  and  is  well 
supported  ;  the  number  of  volumes  at  present  is  above 
1000,  and  it  is  supposed  that  the  number  will  soon  be 
greatly  extended.  A  circulating  library  is  also  kept ; 
and  two  reading-rooms  are  supported  by  subscrip- 
tion. Assemblies  are  held  in  the  ball-room  of  the 
chief  inn,  and  also  in  the  large  rooms  of  St.  Michael's 
Lodge,  and  the  Weavers'  Hall. 


C1UE 


CRIE 


The  principal  trade  carried  on  is  the  weaving  of 
cotton,  for  the  manufacturers  of  Glasgow,  in  which 
nearly  500  persons  are  employed  at  their  own  homes, 
in  producing  checks  and  handkerchiefs.  The  quantity 
of  yarn  annually  sent  to  this  place  from  Glasgow  is 
valued  at  £15,000;  the  average  value  of  the  goods 
when  manufactured  is  about  £20,000.  About  400 
looms  are  engaged  regularly  at  this  work,  which 
forms  the  staple  manufacture  of  the  town.  The  manu- 
facture of  woollen-stuffs  is  also  carried  on  to  a  mode- 
rate extent,  in  a  factory  lately  erected  on  the  banks 
of  the  river  Turret,  and  affords  employment  to  about 
forty  persons.  The  articles  are,  blankets,  plaiding, 
shawls,  and  various  coloured  stuffs  ;  and  all  the  pro- 
cesses are  performed  with  machinery  propelled  by 
water,  of  which  the  river  affords  an  abundant  supply. 
Several  other  persons  are  occupied  in  the  manufacture 
of  linen-cloth,  chiefly  for  home  consumption,  and  a 
considerable  number  of  females  in  tambour  work,  and 
in  working  figured-muslins.  There  are  three  tanneries, 
employing  a  considerable  number  of  hands,  and  pro- 
ducing a  very  large  quantity  of  leather  ;  likewise  two 
distilleries,  which  produce  about  73,000  gallons  of 
whisky  annually,  and  pay  duties  to  the  excise  of  more 
than  £"000.  Five  malting  establishments  are  also 
conducted,  yielding  in  the  aggregate  nearly  7000  quar- 
ters of  malt,  and  paying  a  duty  of  £5420  per  annum. 
An  oil-mill  has  been  established,  which  is  in  constant 
operation  ;  and  there  are  corn,  flour,  and  barley  mills, 
all  belonging  to  one  proprietor,  who  disposes  of  the 
produce  at  the  Glasgow  and  Dundee  markets.  The 
trade  is  principally  with  Glasgow,  but  certain  portions 
of  it  are  carried  on  with  Edinburgh,  Perth,  Stirling, 
Dundee,  and  several  towns  in  England.  Great  facility 
of  communication  with  the  neighbouring  towns  is 
afforded  by  good  roads  which  pass  through  the  parish, 
and  of  which  the  Tay-bridge  road,  traversing  Glenal- 
mond,  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  country.  Mail  and 
stage  coaches  pass  daily  through  the  town.  The  market 
is  on  Thursday,  and  is  well  attended  by  the  farmers, 
and  abundantly  supplied  with  provisions  of  all  kinds 
for  the  supply  of  the  inhabitants.  From  its  central 
situation,  the  town  has  been  made  the  seat  of  numerous 
fairs  previously  held  in  the  neighbouring  parishes ; 
and  nine  fairs,  for  which  a  commodious  situation  has 
been  provided  by  Lady  Willoughby  de  Eresby,  are 
now  regularly  held.  They  are  on  the  first  Thursday 
in  January,  the  third  in  February,  the  second  in 
March,  the  first  in  April,  the  first  and  last  in  June, 
the  second  in  July,  the  third  in  August,  and  the 
Thursday  preceding  the  October  Falkirk  tryst. 

The  government  of  the  town,  which  is  a  burgh  of 
barony,  is  vested  in  three  baron-bailies  and  a  com- 
mittee, appointed  by  the  three  proprietors  of  the  lands 
on  which  the  town  is  built,  of  whom  Lady  Willoughby 
de  Eresby  is  the  chief.  The  common  funds,  amounting 
to  about  £100  per  annum,  are  appropriated  by  the 
committee  in  watching  and  lighting  the  streets,  and 
supplying  the  inhabitants  with  water.  A  court  is  held 
four  times  in  the  year  by  the  sheriff  of  the  county 
for  the  recovery  of  small  debts  and  the  determination 
of  minor  offences  ;  but  there  is  neither  a  regular  magis- 
tracy nor  police,  and  the  whole  management  is  vested 
in  the  committee  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  town. 
The  Masons'  Hall,  or  St.  Michael's  Lodge,  was  built 
235 


in  1S16,  at  an  expense  of  £2000,  under  the  direction 
of  a  committee,  for  the  transaction  of  the  society's 
business;  it  is  a  handsome  edifice,  containing  a  good 
assembly-room,  and  the  requisite  offices.  The  Weavers' 
Hall,  a  neat  building  also  containing  an  assembly-room, 
was  erected  by  that  company  in  I7S6.  The  old  Tol- 
booth  was  built  in  1665,  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
officers  of  the  stewards'  court  after  the  proceedings 
ceased  to  be  conducted  in  the  open  air.  It  contained 
a  prison  in  the  lower  part,  in  which  offenders  were 
temporarily  confined  ;  a  court-room  where  the  small- 
debt  and  other  courts  were  held  ;  and  above,  a  room 
for  the  use  of  the  public  library.  The  building  has  been 
demolished  by  the  County  Prison  Board,  and  a  larger 
edifice  is  in  progress  of  erection  on  its  site. 

The  parish  is  separated  into  two  divisions  by  the 
intervening  lands  of  the  parish  of  Monzie.  The  High- 
land division  comprises  the  larger  portion  of  the 
district  of  Glenalmond,  through  which  the  river  Almond 
has  its  course,  and  abounds  with  every  variety  of 
mountain  scenery,  in  its  wildest  and  most  romantic 
features.  The  Lowland  division,  which  may  properly 
be  regarded  as  the  parish,  is  about  four  miles  in 
length,  and  three  in  breadth,  and  comprises  3S00  acres; 
it  is  bounded  on  the  north-west  by  the  river  Shaggy, 
on  the  east  by  the  Pow,  on  the  south  by  the  Earn, 
and  on  the  west  by  the  Turret.  The  surface  is  gene- 
rally level,  being  broken  only  by  the  Knock  of  Crieff 
and  the  hill  called  Callum's,  the  former  of  which  has  an 
elevation  of  400  feet  above  the  sea.  These  eminences, 
which  are  both  richly  wooded,  add  greatly  to  the 
diversity  and  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  The  Earn, 
which  issues  from  the  lake  of  that  name,  forms  the 
boundary  of  the  parish  for  nearly  three  miles,  and  at 
Crieff  receives  the  waters  of  the  Turret.  It  is  crossed 
by  a  good  stone  bridge  of  four  arches,  one  of  which,  in 
1715,  was  broken  down  by  the  Highlanders  to  arrest 
the  pursuit  of  the  royalist  forces,  and  has  been  replaced 
by  one  that  does  not  harmonize  with  the  others.  The 
rivers  generally  abound  with  trout,  and  the  Earn  with 
salmon,  eels,  perch,  and  pike,  which  are  taken  in  great 
numbers,  and  are  of  superior  quality. 

The  soil  in  the  north,  west,  and  south,  is  light  and 
sandy,  intermixed  with  gravel  ;  nearer  the  town,  a  rich 
loam;  and  in  the  east  and  south-east  portions,  a  stiff 
reddish  clay.  Of  the  3S00  acres  in  the  parish,  all,  with 
the  exception  of  about  600  in  plantations,  are  under 
cultivation  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  highly 
improved  state,  and  draining  has  been  extensively  prac- 
tised in  the  most  efficient  manner.  The  crops  are, 
oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  of  which  great 
quantities  are  grown,  of  excellent  quality ;  wheat  is 
also  raised,  but  to  a  very  limited  extent,  the  soil  not 
being  so  well  adapted  for  it.  Considerable  quantities 
of  cattle  are  reared  here,  for  the  supply  of  the  south 
country  markets,  and  for  home  consumption ;  about 
1500  are  annually  fed  by  the  various  distillers  in  the 
neighbourhood,  and  particular  attention  is  paid  to  the 
improvement  of  the  breed.  The  black-cattle  are  the 
Highland  or  Teeswater,  with  a  cross  of  the  Dunlop. 
Few  sheep  are  pastured,  except  for  the  use  of  the 
parish.  The  woods,  occupying  little  more  than  ten 
acres,  consist  of  oak  (of  which  there  are  three  kinds,  the 
common,  the  scarlet,  and  the  Turkey),  ash,  elm,  beech, 
sycamore,    chesnut,    plane,    walnut,    and   poplar ;    and 

2  H  2 


CRIE 


CRIM 


the  plantations,  to  which  considerable  attention  is 
paid,  are  chiefly  larch,  spruce,  Scotch,  and  silver  firs. 
There  are  not  many  trees  remarkable  for  their  growth  : 
at  Inchbrakie,  however,  is  an  ancient  yew  of  extraor- 
dinary size,  in  which  the  Marquess  of  Montrose  is 
said  to  have  concealed  himself.  The  substrata  of  the 
hills  are  mostly  mica  and  clay  slate,  with  quartz,  horn- 
blende-slate, and  some  portions  of  granite.  The  lower 
lands  are  partly  sandstone  of  a  reddish  hue,  alternated 
in  some  places  with  trap  dikes  of  limited  extent,  and 
partly  greenstone,  which  is  wrought  for  the  roads. 
Quarries  of  freestone  are  worked  in  several  parts,  the 
stone  possessing  great  durability,  and  being  susceptible 
of  a  high  polish ;  but  the  veins  have  not  yet  been 
wrought  to  a  sufficient  depth  to  produce  the  best  speci- 
mens. The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £"600. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Auchterarder  and  synod 
of  Perth  and  Stirling  j  patron,  Lady  Willoughby  de 
Eresby.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £182.  14., 
with  a  manse,  built  in  1701,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £10 
per  annum.  The  church,  built  in  1"S6,  and  thoroughly 
repaired  in  1S27,  affords  accommodation  for  966  per- 
sons ;  and  an  additional  church  was  erected  in  1837, 
at  an  expense  of  £1533,  and  until  lately  had  a  quoad 
sacra  parish  annexed  to  it,  containing  2177  inhabitants, 
and  called  West  Church.  There  are  places  of  worship 
for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  United  Secession, 
and  Relief  Church,  Original  Seceders,  and  Roman  Ca- 
tholics. The  parochial  school  affords  a  useful  educa- 
tion ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
and  garden.  There  are  numerous  friendly  societies,  of 
which  the  Masons',  instituted  by  the  Duke  of  Perth  in 
1737,  and  the  Weavers',  in  1770,  are  the  chief.  On 
the  taking  down  of  the  old  parish  church,  which  was 
a  very  ancient  building,  about  forty  gold  coins  of  the 
reign  of  Robert  I.  were  found  in  a  niche  in  one  of  the 
walls  ;  on  the  obverse  was  a  head  of  the  king,  with 
the  legend  Robertus  Rex  Scotorum,  and  on  the  reverse, 
a  figure  of  St.  Andrew  with  his  cross.  There  are 
some  traces  of  the  Roman  road,  which  is  supposed 
to  have  connected  the  camp  at  Strageath  with  that 
at  Dalginross,  passing  through  the  lands  at  Broich  ; 
and  in  forming  the  present  road  through  Burrel- 
street,  a  Roman  pavement  was  discovered,  in  tolerable 
preservation,  and  at  a  considerable  depth  below  the 
surface.  Near  the  spot  where  the  stewards  of  Strath- 
earn  were  accustomed  to  hold  their  courts,  is  a  large 
upright  stone,  of  which  the  history  is  not  clearly  ascer- 
tained. From  the  well-known  fact  that  many  Druidical 
remains  existed  in  the  neighbourhood,  it  is,  however, 
supposed  to  have  been  one  belonging  to  a  circle,  of 
which  the  others  may  have  been  removed  at  various 
times,  and  applied  to  agricultural  uses.  This  spot  was 
the  scene  of  a  sanguinary  conflict,  in  1413,  between 
Graeme,  Earl  of  Strathearn,  and  Drummond  of  Con- 
craig,  steward  of  that  district,  in  which  the  former  was 
slain.  It  was  also  chosen  by  Sir  John  Cope  for  his 
4  head-quarters,  in  the  rebellion  of  1745  ;  and  there  is 
still  a  fine  spring  called  "  Cope's  well,"  near  which  an 
old  sword  was  lately  found.  Some  slight  remains 
exist  of  the  ancient  house  of  Inchbrakie,  the  strongly- 
fortified  residence  of  Patrick  Graeme,  colonel  of  the 
Posse  Comitatus  of  the  county  of  Perth,  and  cousin  of 
the  celebrated  Marquess  of  Montrose,  in  whose  cause 
236 


he  took  a  decisive  part.  He  is  said  to  have  defeated 
the  Duke  of  Argyll,  and  to  have  taken  Aberdeen,  in 
retaliation  for  which,  his  house  at  Inchbrakie  was 
burnt  by  Cromwell.  Mallet,  the  poet,  and  Dow,  the 
historian  of  Hindostan,  are  said  to  have  received  their 
early  education  in  the  school  of  this  parish ;  and 
Dr.  William  Wright,  a  physician  and  natural  philoso- 
pher of  eminence,  and  Dr.  Thomas  Thomson,  the  distin- 
guished professor  of  chemistry  in  the  university  of 
Glasgow,  were  natives  of  the  place.  Sir  David  Baird, 
Bart.,  passed  the  later  years  of  his  life  at  Ferntower, 
in  the  parish  ;  and  the  sword  of  Tippoo  Saib,  presented 
to  the  general  after  the  storming  of  Seringapatam,  is 
still  preserved  there.  A  marble  tablet  on  the  wall  of  the 
parish  church  records  his  decease,  and  the  deep  sym- 
pathy which  it  excited  in  the  minds  of  the  people  of 
Crieff,  by  whom  his  memory  is  held  in  veneration. 

CRIMOND,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Deer,  county 
of  Aberdeen,  9  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Peterhead  ;  con- 
taining 767  inhabitants.  This  place  once  contained  a 
castle  belonging  to  the  celebrated  Cumyn,  Earl  of  Bu- 
chan,  which  stood  on  a  small  hill  called  Castlehill,  and 
was  suffered  to  fall  into  ruins  after  his  fatal  defeat  at 
the  battle  of  Inverury  by  Robert  Bruce.  Near  this 
castle,  the  remains  of  which  are  covered  over  with  sand 
blown  from  the  sea-shore,  are  the  walls  of  a  chapel  in 
good  preservation,  supposed  to  have  been  the  private 
family  chapel  ;  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  formerly 
stood  the  ancient  town  of  Rattray,  which,  in  the  six- 
teenth century,  possessed  all  the  privileges  of  a  royal 
burgh,  except  that  of  sending  members  to  parliament. 
The  Earl  of  Errol  was  superior  of  the  burgage  lands,  of 
which,  though  originally  extensive,  there  is  now  only 
one  feu  remaining.  The  parish  is  situated  in  that 
part  of  the  county  called  Buchan,  and  on  the  coast  of 
the  German  Ocean,  about  midway  between  Peterhead 
and  Fraserburgh ;  it  comprises  nearly  6000  acres,  of 
which  4093  are  arable,  707  pasture,  100  plantations, 
and  the  remainder  moor,  moss,  bent,  and  waste.  The 
coast  measures  two  miles,  and  consists  of  flat  beach 
and  sand-hills,  except  at  the  famous  promontory  of 
Rattray  head,  where  it  runs  into  a  ridge  of  low  rocks, 
stretching  into  the  sea,  in  an  easterly  direction,  to  the 
distance  of  between  one  and  two  miles.  There  were 
formerly  numerous  shipwrecks  ;  but  these  accidents 
have  become  far  less  frequent,  chiefly  in  consequence  of 
a  lighthouse  having  been  erected  at  Kinnaird's  head  to 
the  north,  and  another  at  Boddom,  near  Peterhead,  on 
the  south.  The  surface  along  the  shore  rises  to  the 
height  of  nearly  200  feet,  but  slopes  towards  the  in- 
terior, which  is  only  slightly  elevated  above  the  sea. 
Afterwards,  however,  the  land  rises  to  the  south  and 
south-west  boundaries,  uniting  with  the  higher  grounds 
of  Lonmay  and  St.  Fergus. 

The  loch  of  Strathbeg,  situated  partly  in  Crimond, 
but  chiefly  in  Lonmay,  parish,  covers  between  600  and 
700  acres  ;  the  water  is  now  fresh,  but  it  formerly  com- 
municated with  the  sea,  and  was  entered  by  vessels  of 
small  burthen  till  the  year  1720,  when  a  strong  east 
wind  blew  the  sand  into  the  channel,  and  effectually 
choked  up  the  entrance.  The  banks  towards  the  sea 
present  nothing  but  a  succession  of  sand-hillocks  covered 
with  bent,  and  the  other  side  is  lined  with  bogs  and 
marshes.  The  loch,  however,  has  many  attractions  to 
the  botanist  and  the  sportsman,  from  the  variety  of  the 


CROC 


CROM 


productions  growing  near  its  banks,  or  on  the  margin 
of  its  tributary  burns  :  its  numerous  wild-fowl,  com- 
prehending most  species  usual  in  the  country  ;  and  its 
supply  of  different  sorts  of  fish.  The  upper  part  of  the 
parish  contains  the  loch  of  Logie,  which  covers  about 
twenty  acres,  and  is  surrounded  by  low  tracts  of  moss, 
of  a  dreary  and  barren  appearance.  The  prevailing  soil 
is  a  light  loam,  incumbent  on  clay  ;  that  near  the  shore 
is  sandy,  and  other  parts  contain  a  great  extent  of  moss. 
The  land  produces  good  crops  of  all  kinds  of  grain, 
potatoes,  turnips,  and  hay  ;  the  system  of  farming  is 
of  a  superior  kind,  and  considerable  improvements  have 
been  effected  by  draining,  although  much  yet  remains 
to  be  done  in  this  respect.  On  account  of  the  faci- 
lities of  communication  between  Aberdeen  and  Lon- 
don, much  attention  has  been  recently  given  to  the 
rearing  and  fattening  of  cattle  for  the  market ;  and 
among  other  kinds,  a  cross  between  the  Teeswater  and 
Buchan  is  in  general  preferred.  But  few  sheep  are 
kept ;  and  cows  for  the  dairy,  now  numbering  between 
250  and  300,  have  been  less  regarded  since  the  increase 
in  the  sale  of  cattle.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £3424. 

The  rocks  comprise  whinstone,  which  is  abundant, 
and  a  darkish  blue  granite  of  very  good  quality  ;  red 
granite  is  also  found,  but  chiefly  in  a  decomposed  state, 
and  limestone  was  formerly  worked  near  Bilbo.  There 
is  an  ancient  seat  called  Haddo,  and  an  elegant  modern 
mansion  has  been  built  on  the  estate  of  Rattray.  The 
population  of  the  parish  is  mostly  agricultural ;  but 
some  are  engaged  in  fishing,  and  besides  the  perch, 
trout,  eels,  and  flounders  taken  in  Loch  Strathbeg  and 
its  burns,  the  neighbouring  seas  afford  herrings,  macke- 
rel, skate,  haddock,  and  other  fish,  especially  the  famous 
cod  known  as  the  Rattray-head  cod.  The  turnpike-road 
from  Peterhead  to  Fraserburgh  runs  through  the  parish. 
Fairs  are  held  in  February,  September,  and  October, 
for  horses,  cattle,  and  sheep  ;  and  home-made  shoes, 
and  cotton-pieces  for  gowns,  were  formerly  sold.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Deer  and  synod  of  Aberdeen, 
and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Fife ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  between  £200  and  £300,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £6  per  annum.  The  church  is  an  ele- 
gant structure,  built  in  1S12,  and  surmounted  by  a 
lofty  spire,  containing  a  good  clock  and  bell.  The  paro- 
chial school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £35,  with  a  house  erected  in 
1S16,  and  £17  fees,  in  addition  to  which  he  receives  a 
portion  of  the  Dick  bequest,  and  the  interest  of  £400 
left  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Johnston,  a  former  minister  of  the 
parish.  There  is  also  a  parochial  library,  containing 
about  400  volumes.  Arthur  Johnstone,  a  Latin  poet  of 
the  sixteenth  century,  is  said  to  have  been  born  in  the 
parish  ;  and  Mr.  Farquhar,  of  Fonthill,  who  amassed  an 
immense  fortune  in  India,  and  was  generally  known  by 
the  name  of  "rich  Farquhar,"  was  also  a  native. 

CRINAMAIL,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Barra, 
county  of  Inverness.  It  is  one  of  the  Hebrides,  situ- 
ated in  the  roads  of  Ottervore,  and  is  of  very  small 
extent,  and  uninhabited. 

CROCKETFORD,  a  village,  partly  in  the  parish  of 
Kirkpatrick-Durham,  and  partly  in  that  of  Urr, 
stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright  ;  containing,  in  the  Kirk- 
patrick-Durham portion  117,  and  in  the  Urr  portion 
122,  inhabitants.     A  road  branches  off  from  the  village 


to  New  Galloway  and  the  Glenkens.     There  is  a  small 
school. 

CROFTHEAD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Neilston, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  |  of  a  mile 
(W.  S.  W.)  from  Neilston  ;  containing  297  inhabitants. 
This  place,  which  is  situated  a  little  east  of  the  road 
from  Irvine  to  Barrhead,  owes  its  origin  to  the  intro- 
duction of  the  cotton  manufacture.  In  1792,  an  ex- 
tensive spinning  and  weaving  mill  was  built,  around 
which  the  village  has  arisen.  In  addition  to  the  cot- 
tages of  the  work-people  employed  in  the  factor y,  and 
in  the  printing  and  bleaching  establishments  connected 
with  the  cotton  trade,  there  are  some  neat  houses  in- 
habited by  persons  occupied  in  superintending  and  con- 
ducting these  extensive  works. 

CROICH,  or  Croick,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish, 
forming  part  of  the  parish  of  Kincardine,  county  of 
Ross  and  Cromarty,  9  miles  (W.)  from  Kincardine  ; 
containing  316  inhabitants.  This  place,  of  which  the 
name  signifies  a  nook  or  corner,  is  situated  on  the  Carron 
water,  and  is  the  head  of  a  remote  pastoral  district  of 
the  civil  parish.  It  was  formed  into  a  parish  in  1827, 
and  placed  under  the  controul  of  the  presbytery  of  Tain 
and  synod  of  Ross  :  the  church  was  erected  in  the  same 
year.  The  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £120,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  of  the  annual  value  of  £10;  the 
patronage  is  in  the  Crown.     There  is  a  small  school. 

CROLIN,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Applecross, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty  ;  containing  40  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  situated  near  the  entrance  into  Loch  Carron, 
on  the  western  coast,  and  is  the  most  southerly  of  a 
small  group,  and  about  a  mile  in  length  and  of  nearly 
equal  breadth.     There  is  some  good  pasturage. 

CROMARTY,  a  burgh  of  barony,  sea-port,  and 
parish,  in  the  county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty,  175 
miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Edinburgh ;  containing  2662  in- 
habitants, of  whom  1938  are  in  the  burgh.  This  place, 
of  which  the  Gaelic  name,  Crom  Ba,  signifying  the 
crooked  bay,  is  derived  from  the  winding  shore  of  the 
Frith  of  Cromarty,  appears  to  have  attained  to  some 
importance  at  an  early  period,  though  few  details  of  its 
ancient  history  are  recorded.  It  is  identified  in  some 
degree  with  the  usurper  Macbeth,  to  whom  it  gave  his 
earliest  title  of  Thane  of  Cromarty.  It  also  seems  to 
have  been  the  scene  of  various  disastrous  battles,  in 
commemoration  of  which  are  numerous  tumuli  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  parish,  raised  over  the  bodies  of  the 
slain.  The  hill  behind  the  town  is  distinguished  by  tradi- 
tion as  the  site  of  one  of  the  victories  gained  by  William 
Wallace  over  the  English,  during  the  disputed  succes- 
sion to  the  Scottish  throne  in  the  reign  of  Edward  I.  of 
England  ;  and  the  opinion  is  confirmed  by  some  arti- 
ficial hillocks  still  discernible  among  the  trees  which 
crown  that  eminence.  The  district  appears  to  have 
been  originally  inhabited  by  the  Lowland  Scots.  Prior 
to  the  reign  of  Robert  II.,  the  town,  which  carried  on  a 
considerable  trade  in  the  exportation  of  wool  and  sal- 
mon to  Flanders  and  France,  was  erected  into  a  royal 
burgh,  and  united  with  that  of  Inverness. 

The  inhabitants  were  constantly  subject  to  the  pre- 
datory incursions  of  the  Highlanders  of  the  surrounding 
district  ;  and  in  the  reign  of  James  IV.,  a  combination 
of  the  Highland  clans  assaulted  the  town,  and  carried 
off  nearly  the  whole  of  the  property,  even  to  the  house- 
hold furniture,  for  the  restitution  of  which  a  decree  was 


C  R  O  M 


CROM 


enacted  by  the  lords  of  the  council.  Nearly  the.  whole 
of  the  lands  in  the  old  county  of  Cromarty  belonged  to 
Sir  John  Urquhart,  who  was  hereditary  sheriff ;  and  on 
his  petition,  the  town  was  disfranchised  as  a  royal  burgh, 
and  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony  under  his  own  juris- 
diction. The  prosperity  of  the  place  was  subject  to 
great  fluctuation  prior  to  the  Reformation  ;  but  at  that 
time  it  began  to  revive,  and  in  the  reign  of  Anne  it  had 
regained  much  of  its  previous  importance,  and  had  five 
vessels  engaged  in  the  herring-fishery.  At  the  period 
of  the  union  it  experienced  considerable  depression,  and 
in  1730  had  so  far  declined  that  scarcely  a  single  shop- 
keeper was  to  be.  found  in  the  town.  In  1765,  how- 
ever, the  lands  of  Cromarty  were  purchased  by  George 
Ross,  Esq.,  who,  at  his  own  cost,  added  greatly  to  the 
revival  and  prosperity  of  the  town  by  the  construction 
of  a  pier,  the  introduction  of  an  extensive  manufacture 
of  hempen-cloth,  the  erection  of  a  public  brewery,  and 
the  establishment  of  a  lucrative  trade  in  pork  for  the 
English  market.  Among  other  beneficent  measures, 
was  the  erection  and  endowment  of  a  Gaelic  chapel  for 
the  accommodation  of  Highland  inhabitants. 

The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  in  the  eastern  part 
of  the  parish,  upon  a  low  promontory  between  the 
Moray  Frith  on  the  east,  and  the  Frith  of  Cromarty  on 
the  west.  It  consists  of  several  streets  of  irregularly- 
built  houses,  which,  notwithstanding  the  antique  ap- 
pearance of  the  more  ancient,  have  an  air  of  cheerful 
neatness.  The  herring-fishery,  which  was  formerly 
carried  on  to  a  great  extent,  and,  within  the  last  twelve 
years,  produced  annually  not  less  than  20,000  barrels 
that  were  shipped  from  the  port,  has  recently  been 
almost  discontinued.  The  manufacture  of  hempen- 
cloth  introduced  by  Mr.  Ross  is,  however,  still  carried 
on  in  an  extensive  factory,  in  which  about  150  persons 
are  employed,  in  addition  to  nearly  half  that  number 
in  its  collateral  branches  ;  the  brewery  noticed  above  is 
a  ruin.  The  principal  trade  of  the  port  is  the  ex- 
portation of  pork  for  the  supply  of  the  English  market, 
of  which  the  average  quantity  annually  shipped  is 
valued  at  from  £15,000  to  £20,000 ;  and  the  importa- 
tion of  coal  from  Sunderland,  and  other  produce  from 
different  parts  of  the  coast.  The  harbour  has  a  com- 
modious pier,  and  is  accessible  to  vessels  of  400  tons, 
which  can  come  up  to  the  quay;  and  should  the  popu- 
lation and  the  trade  of  the  district  require  it,  this  might 
be  made  one  of  the  best  harbours  on  the  coast. 

The  entrance  into  the  bay  of  Cromarty,  from  the 
North  Sea,  is  between  two  lofty  and  precipitous  pro- 
montories called  the  North  and  South  Souters,  of  which 
the  former  is  in  the  county  of  Ross,  and  the  latter  in 
that  of  Cromarty.  The  passage  is  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  in  width,  and  the  bay  is  about  seven  miles  in  length, 
five  miles  in  breadth,  and  from  nine  to  twelve  fathoms 
in  depth,  and  affords  secure  shelter  to  vessels  in  the 
severest  gales.  Towards  the  south-west,  it  contracts 
into  a  frith  of  about  two  miles  in  breadth,  across  which 
is  a  good  ferry  to  Invergordon,  where  no  accident  has 
occurred  within  the  memory  of  man.  The  market,  which 
was  on  Friday,  and  amply  supplied  with  provisions, 
has  long  been  discontinued;  and  of  the  several  fairs 
that  were  formerly  held  here  only  one  remains,  on  the 
third  Tuesday  in  November.  (O.  S.)  The  govern- 
ment of  the  burgh,  since  the  late  act  for  municipal 
reform,  has  been  vested  in  a  provost,  two  bailies,  and 
238 


seven  councillors  ;  but  they  have  no  funds.  The  burgh 
is  associated  with  those  of  Dingwall,  Dornoch,  Kirkwall, 
Tain,  and  Wick,  in  returning  a  member  to  the  imperial 
parliament ;  the  number  of  qualified  voters  is  about 
fifty.  The  town-hall,  a  neat  substantial  building,  was 
erected  by  Mr.  Ross,  and  contains,  in  the  upper  story, 
a  spacious  hall  surmounted  by  a  dome,  and  on  the 
ground-floor  a  prison.  The  internal  intercourse  is  im- 
peded by  the  numerous  inlets  from  the  sea  with  which 
the  parish  is  indented  ;  but  a  road  has  been  formed  to 
Inverness,  which  passes  through  Chanonry,  Rosemarkie, 
and  Avoch,  and  the  regular  sailing  packets  from  Lon- 
don, Leith,  and  Inverness  touch  at  the  port,  and  afford 
great  facilities. 

The  parish  extends  from  five  to  seven  miles  in  length, 
and  from  two  to  three  in  breadth,  comprising  about 
7100  acres,  of  which  2047  are  arable,  1850  woodland 
and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  meadow,  pasture, 
and  waste.  The  surface  is  strikingly  diversified.  To- 
wards the  Moray  Frith  it  is  precipitous  and  abrupt, 
attaining,  at  a  small  distance  from  the  shore,  an  eleva- 
tion of  470  feet  above  the  sea.  On  the  north  and  west, 
it  declines  gently  towards  the  Frith  of  Cromarty  for 
some  distance,  and  then  subsides,  more  abruptly,  into  a 
continuous  extent  of  table-land  overhanging  the  beach. 
In  the  eastern  portion  of  the  parish  is  the  hill  of  Cro- 
marty, having  an  elevation  of  300  feet,  and  richly 
crowned  with  wood ;  and  about  two  miles  to  the  east 
of  the  town,  is  a  natural  arch  in  the  cliff,  affording  a 
passage  to  a  peninsulated  rock  rising  to  the  height  of 
100  feet  from  the  beach.  The  small  burn  of  Ethie, 
which  forms  the  extreme  southern  boundary  of  the 
parish,  flows  for  nearly  two  miles  through  a  deep  ravine 
in  a  bed  of  sandstone,  of  which  the  banks  rise  precipi- 
tously to  an  elevation  of  250  feet.  In  its  course  it  forms 
numerous  cascades  of  romantic  character,  and  in  one 
part  flowing  between  banks  crowned  with  flowers  and 
foliage  of  every  hue,  falls  from  a  height  of  thirty  feet 
into  a  dark  mossy  basin,  shaded  with  plantations  of  hazel, 
birch,  and  hawthorn,  intermixed  with  ivy  and  wild 
honeysuckle. 

The  soil  of  the  arable  land  is  of  a  clayey  quality,  and 
in  other  parts  are  large  tracts  of  moor  and  moss.  The 
system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  improving  state  ;  the 
chief  crops  are,  wheat,  which  was  first  raised  about 
forty  years  since,  and  the  various  other  kinds  of  grain. 
The  substrata  are  mostly  sandstone  of  various  forma- 
tion, and  granitic  gneiss,  of  which  the  rocks  are  mainly 
composed.  Cromarty  House,  a  handsome  modern  man- 
sion, beautifully  situated  in  a  richly-planted  demesne, 
and  Udale,  are  the  principal  residences.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
presbytery  of  Chanonry  and  synod  of  Ross.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £251.  12.,  with  an  allowance  in 
money  in  lieu  of  a  manse,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at 
£15  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  church  is  a 
plain  structure  in  very  bad  repair.  The  Gaelic  chapel 
erected  in  1783,  by  Mr.  Ross,  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  Highlanders  employed  in  his  factory,  has  an 
endowment  of  £150  per  annum  from  government,  for 
the  support  of  its  minister.  To  this  chapel,  containing 
580  sittings,  of  which  300  are  free,  the  Gaelic  people 
now  come  indiscriminately  from  all  parts  of  the  parish. 
There  is  also  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church.     The  parochial  school  is  well  conducted ; 


C  It  O  M 


CROM 


the  master  has  a  salary  of  £40,  with  a  sum  for  house 
and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £10.  The  poor  have 
bequests  producing  £~5  per  annum.  There  are  some 
very  slight  remains  of  ancient  chapels,  of  which  the 
most  perfect  are  those  of  St.  Regulus ;  and  among  the 
ruins  of  the  chapels  of  St.  Duthac  and  St.  Bennet,  are 
two  springs  of  excellent  water.  Of  the  distinguished 
persons  connected  with  the  place,  may  be  named,  Sir 
Thomas  Urquhart,  celebrated  as  the  author  of  Genealogy 
and  Universal  Language,  and  the  late  Dr.  James  Robert- 
son, librarian  of  the  university  of  Edinburgh,  and  pro- 
fessor of  the  Oriental  languages,  who  were  both  natives. 
The  town  formerly  gave  the  title  of  earl  to  the 
Mackenzie  family  j  but  George,  the  third  earl,  was  at- 
tainted for  his  participation  in  the  rebellion  of  1745, 
and  the  title  became  extinct. 

CROMARTY,  County  of.— See  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty. 

CROMBIE-POINT,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of Torry- 
BtiRN,  district  of  Dunfermline,  county  of  Fife,  3  miles 
(E.)  from  Torryburn ;  containing  54  inhabitants.  This 
village,  which  is  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  was  formerly  a  place  of  considerable 
trade.  It  was,  indeed,  the  principal  depot  for  the 
transit  of  the  manufactures  of  Dunfermline,  which 
were  shipped  hence  to  Borrowstounness,  at  that  time 
the  chief  port  on  the  Frith.  The  harbour,  which  is  dry 
at  low  water,  is  inclosed  by  a  pier  of  stone,  now  in 
great  want  of  repair.  A  very  considerable  portion  of 
the  coal  found  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  of  agricul- 
tural produce,  is  still  shipped  from  this  place  ;  and  the 
Newhaven  and  Stirling  steamers  still  land,  and  take  in, 
passengers  and  goods  at  the  pier. 

CROMDALE,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county  of 
Elgin,  but  chiefly  in  that  of  Inverness,  IS  miles  (S.  W.) 
from  Rothes  ;  containing,  with  the  village  of  Grantown, 
3561  inhabitants.  It  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its 
name  from  the  Gaelic  words  crom,  signifying  crooked  or 
curved,  and  dail,  a  plain  or  meadow,  a  portion  of  land 
being  made  semicircular,  by  the  winding  of  the  river 
Spey.  This  district,  consisting  of  the  three  ancient 
parishes  of  Cromdale,  Inverallan,  and  Advie,  has  from 
an  early  period  been  possessed  by  the  Grant  family,  who 
were  very  powerful  in  Scotland  in  the  thirteenth  century, 
and  the  first  of  whom  mentioned  in  old  records  was 
Gregory  de  Grant,  sheriff-principal  of  Inverness,  Ross, 
Sutherland,  and  Caithness,  in  the  reign  of  Alexander 
II.  Among  the  many  sanguinary  conflicts  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood, a  battle  fought  on  the  haughs  of  Cromdale, 
on  the  1st  May,  1690,  is  the  most  celebrated.  It  took 
place  between  General  Buchan,  with  a  large  party  from 
different  clans,  on  the  side  of  the  Stuarts,  and  Sir 
Thomas  Livingstone,  who  commanded  the  royalists;  and 
the  Highlanders,  after  fighting  bravely,  were  routed 
with  considerable  slaughter.  The  castle  of  Lochindorb, 
situated  in  the  parish,  on  an  island  in  a  loch  of  the  same 
name,  afforded  a  retreat  for  the  lady  of  the  Earl  of  Athol, 
when  the  latter  had  been  killed  in  an  engagement  with 
the  Earl  of  March,  in  1335,  at  Kilblair  :  Sir  Alexander 
Gordon  shortly  laid  siege  to  the  fort,  but  was  obliged  to 
withdraw  in  the  following  year. 

The   parish   is  very  irregular  in  its  outline,   and  is 

about  twenty-seven  miles  in  length,  and  ten  miles  at  its 

greatest  breadth,  comprising,  according  to  a  survey  made 

in  1810,   54,744  acres,  of  which   5306  are  arable,  3283 

239 


underwood,  396  lake,  and  the  remainder  hill,  moor,  and 
moss.  The  lands  are  separated  into  two  distinct  por- 
tions by  the  Spey.  Those  on  the  northern  side  are  much 
varied  by  slopes,  stretching  down  to  the  river,  and 
covered  with  thick  forests  of  pine,  oak,  and  larch ; 
on  the  south  the  most  prominent  feature  is  Cromdale 
hill,  a  lofty  mountain  ridge,  about  seven  miles  long, 
covered  with  heath,  extending  to  the  east  and  west,  and 
separating  this  parish  from  that  of  Kirkmichael.  Most 
of  the  high  grounds  abound  with  grouse  and  different 
kinds  of  game,  and  with  brown  and  white  hares  ;  and 
ptarmigan  have  been  shot  in  some  places  :  the  Spey  is 
well  stocked  with  salmon.  The  soil  is  in  general  favour- 
able ;  but  the  vicissitudes  of  the  climate,  the  site  of  the 
parish  being  600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  often 
expose  promising  crops  to  ruin  from  cold  and  frost. 
Agriculture  is,  however,  on  a  very  respectable  footing, 
the  rotation  of  crops,  and  other  approved  usages  of 
modern  farming  being  followed  ;  and  lime  is  prepared  on 
almost  every  allotment  of  land,  however  small.  The 
sheep  are  mostly  the  black-faced,  with  a  few  Cheviots  ; 
and  the  black-cattle,  which  are  very  superior,  are  of  the 
West  Highland  breed.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £5S49.  Primitive  limestone  of  excellent  quality 
is  abundant,  and  is  extensively  wrought  by  nearly  all  the 
tenants,  not  only  for  manure,  but  for  the  purposes  of 
building  ;  granite  of  a  superior  kind  is  also  found,  with 
many  rocks  of  the  primitive  formation. 

The  parish  is  famous  for  its  large  and  flourishing 
plantations,  which  are  said  to  exceed  those  of  any  other 
parish  in  this  part  of  the  country.  About  5000  acres  are 
covered  with  larch,  fir,  and  various  other  trees,  half  of 
which  have  been  planted  within  the  last  thirty  years  ; 
and  many  trees  among  the  older  plantations  are  of  great 
bulk  and  value,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  Castle-Grant, 
whence  some  have  been  taken  to  Garmouth  for  ship- 
masts.  The  natural  wood,  also,  comprises  a  consider- 
able extent  of  oak,  birch,  and  alder ;  and  in  the  church- 
yard is  a  very  old  and  magnificent  beech,  the  branches 
of  which  are  capable  of  overshadowing  more  than  1000 
persons.  The  mansion  of  Castle-Grant  is  situated  on  an 
eminence  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Spey,  about  two 
miles  from  the  river,  and  is  encompassed  with  forests  of 
ancient  and  noble  trees.  This  splendid  edifice,  the  seat 
of  the  Grant  family  from  remote  ages,  but  now  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Earl  of  Seafield,  the  sole  proprietor  of  the 
parish,  was  built  in  the  fourteenth  century,  but  has  since 
been  frequently  altered  and  improved,  especially  within 
the  last  few  years.  It  consists  of  a  quadrangular  pile  of 
several  stories,  with  lower  wings  ;  and  the  apartments, 
which  are  spacious,  and  handsomely  furnished,  contain 
many  valuable  paintings  by  the  ancient  masters,  and  one 
by  Hamilton,  of  very  superior  merit,  representing  the 
Death  of  Patroclus.  In  the  front  hall  are  between 
thirty  and  forty  portraits  of  different  members  of  the 
Grant  family  ;  and  there  is  also  an  extensive  armoury. 
The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Abernethy  and  synod 
of  Moray,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Seafield  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £249,  with  a  manse,  and  two 
glebes,  the  one  at  Cromdale,  and  the  other  at  Advie, 
valued  at  £22  per  annum.  The  church,  situated  on  the 
southern  bank  of  the  Spey,  was  built  in  1809,  and  will 
accommodate  900  persons.  There  are  four  parochial 
schools  affording  the  usual  instruction ;  the  masters 
receive  each  £12.  16.  per  annum,  with   fees,    and  the 


C  R  O  S 


C  RO  S 


master  of  the  school  at  Advie  also  shares  the  Dick 
bequest.  The  chief  relics  of  antiquity  are,  the  ruin  of 
the  castle  of  Lochindorb,  already  mentioned,  and  that 
of  Muckerach  Castle,  built  by  Patrick  Grant,  about 
159S.  Sir  James  M'Grigor,  Bart.,  the  head  'of  the 
medical  department  of  the  army,  was  born  here  in  1771. 
— See  Grantown. 

CROMWELL-PARK,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Redgorton,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  124  inha- 
bitants. It  is  situated  on  the  Almond  river,  and  is  the 
seat  of  extensive  cotton-works  and  a  bleachfield,  which 
employ  the  greater  part  of  the  population.  The  Almond 
turns  several  spinning-mills  near  this  place,  and  has 
some  fine  waterfalls  at  short  distances  from  the  village. 

CRONAY,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Assynt,  county 
of  Sutherland.  This  is  a  small  flat  islet,  with  a 
shallow  shore,  lying  in  Oldernay  bay,  on  the  western 
coast  of  the  county,  and  a  short  distance  westward  of 
Oldernay  island. 

CROOK,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Alves,  county 
of  Elgin  ;  containing  73  inhabitants. 

CROOK  OF  DEVON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Fossoway  and  Tulliebole,  county  of  Kinross,  5  miles 
(W.  N.  W.)  from  Kinross;  containing  61  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  in  the  western  part  of  the  parish,  and  at 
an  angle  of  the  Crook  water,  which  here  turns  suddenly. 
The  vicinity  is  very  romantic  :  the  Devil's  mill  is  about 
a  mile  and  a  half,  the  Rumbling  Brig  two  miles,  and  the 
Cauldron  Linn  three  miles,  below  the  village. 

CROSS  and  BURNESS,  a  parish,  in  the  island  of 
Sanda,  county  of  Orkney  ;   containing  9S3  inhabitants, 
of  whom  515  are  in  Cross,  and  468  in  Burness.     These 
two  ancient  parishes,  now  united,   include  about  one- 
half  of  the  island  in  which  they  are  situated,  the  former 
occupying  the  south-west,  and  the  latter  the  north-west, 
portion,  together  about  nine  and  a  half  miles  in  length, 
and  from  half  a  mile  to   three  miles  in  breadth.     They 
are  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Frith  of  North  Ronald- 
shay,  which  is  about  seven  miles  broad,  and  on  the  west 
by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.     Cross  comprises  about   4600 
acres,  of  which  one-fourth  is  moorland,  and  nearly  an 
equal  quantity  sandy  downs.     Its  surface  is  diversified 
with  hills,  rising  in  some  parts  to  an  elevation  of  more 
than  300  feet  above  the  sea.     One  of  these,  called  the 
Brae  of  Fea,  terminates  on  the  west  in  an  abrupt  preci- 
pice, washed  by  the  sea,  and  fretted  by  the  action  of  the 
waves  into  numerous  fantastic  caverns  ;  it  slopes  gra- 
dually on  the  east  to  the  margin  of  Ben-Loch,  the  de- 
clivity being  richly  covered  with  pasture,  and  enlivened 
with  a  pleasing  variety  of  field  flowers.     The  district  of 
Burness,  anciently  St.  Colmes,   comprises  about  2500 
acres,  of  which  a  considerable  portion  is  under  profitable 
cultivation.       Its   surface    is    nearly    an   uninterrupted 
level,  and,  being  almost  surrounded  by  the  sea,  is  abun- 
dantly supplied  with  weed  for  manure,  and  also  for  the 
manufacture  of  kelp.     The  lands  of  the  district  are  gene- 
rally fertile,  and  in  good  cultivation,  and  the  scenery  is 
enlivened  with  fields  of  luxuriant  pasture,  except  near 
the  junction  with  the  district  of  Cross,  where  there  is 
an  extensive  tract  of  barren  moor.     It  is  bounded  on 
the  west  by  the  Atlantic,  from  the   violent   surges  of 
which  it  is  sheltered  by  the  Holms  of  Ire ;  and  on  the 
east  by  the  bay  of  Otterswick,  formerly  Odinswick,  by 
which  it  is    separated  from  the  parish  of  Lady-Kirk. 
There    are    several    lakes    of   considerable    extent   and 
240 


depth,  and  one  fresh-water  lake,  which,  together  with 
those  in  the  district  of  Cross,  are  frequented  by  a  great 
variety  of  aquatic  fowl. 

The  substrata  of  the  parish,  in  common  with  those  of 
the  whole  island,  are  principally  of  the  old  red  sand- 
stone formation,  with  sandstone  flag  and  a  little  lime- 
stone. In  Burness  is  an  isolated  mass  of  gneiss,  about 
fourteen  tons  in  weight,  resting  upon  the  surface,  and 
to  which  there  is  no  rock  of  similar  formation  nearer 
than  Stromness,  about  thirty  miles  distant.  On  the  west 
shore  of  Cross  is  a  singular  rock  of  breccia,  consisting  of 
rounded  nodules  of  sandstone,  with  a  few  specimens  of 
quartz  and  calcareous  nodules  intermixed.  The  bays  of 
Stove  and  Otterswick  abound  with  shell-fish  of  various 
kinds,  particularly  cockles  and  the  razor-fish;  and  the 
large  accumulation  of  shells  reduced  to  powder,  and 
heaped  on  the  beach  by  the  action  of  the  waves,  has 
tended  much,  by  intermixing  with  the  soil,  to  improve 
its  fertility.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  inferior  to 
that  of  many  of  the  other  islands  of  Orkney,  from  the 
neglect  it  suffered  during  the  almost  general  attention  of 
the  inhabitants  to  the  more  profitable  pursuit  of  manu- 
facturing kelp,  vast  quantities  of  sea-weed  being  thrown 
upon  the  shores.  It  has,  however,  been  considerably 
improved  under  the  auspices  of  Mr.  Laing,  of  Papdale, 
and  Mr.  Traill,  of  Westove.  The  soil  is  well  adapted 
for  turnips,  of  which  large  quantities  are  raised  ;  and 
the  abundant  use  of  weed  as  manure  has  greatly  bene- 
fitted the  lands,  which  now  produce  excellent  oats  and 
bear,  potatoes,  grass,  and  various  "green  crops.  .  The 
cattle  are  of  the  common  breed,  to  the  improvement  of 
which  much  attention  is  paid.  The  native  breeds  of 
sheep  are  similar  to  those  of  Shetland  and  the  Hebrides  ; 
some  merinos,  introduced  by  Mr.  Laing,  have  been 
crossed  with  those  of  the  Cheviot  breed,  and  subse- 
quently with  those  of  the  Orkneys. 

The  manufacture  of  kelp  was  formerly  very  extensive, 
about  480  tons  being  produced  annually,  of  a  very  supe- 
'rior  quality,  and  readily  obtaining  a  market  at  £9  per 
ton;  but  this  source  of  profit  has  been  almost  annihi- 
lated. As  a  substitute,  considerable  attention  has  been 
paid  to  the  improvement  of  the  fisheries  off  the  coast, 
which  are  now  conducted  with  activity  and  success. 
The  lobster-fishery  affords  employment  to  fourteen 
boats,  and  fifteen  sloops  and  boats  are  engaged  in  the 
herring  and  cod  fisheries  ;  the  average  quantity  of  cod 
cured  and  dried  here  may  be  stated  at  fourteen  tons 
annually.  Otters  are  frequently  seen  in  the  caverns  of 
the  rocks  on  the  western  coast,  and  large  shoals  of  what 
are  called  bottle-nosed  whales  are  occasionally  embayed 
here.  These  fish,  which  vary  from  five  to  twenty-five 
feet  in  length,  and  in  numbers  from  fifty  to  five  hundred, 
are  on  their  appearance  surrounded  by  the  boats,  and 
driven  into  the  shallow  water  on  the  sandy  shore,  where 
they  are  easily  taken.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  the  North 
Isles  and  synod  of  Orkney.  The  minister's  stipend,  in- 
cluding an  allowance  for  communion  elements,  is  £210, 
with  a  manse  situated  in  Gross,  and  a  glebe  in  each  of 
the  districts,  together  valued  at  £19  per  annum;  pa- 
tron, the  Earl  of  Zetland.  The  churches  are  both  old 
and  inconvenient  structures;  that  of  Cross  contains 
248,  and  the  church  of  Burness  262,  sittings.  Divine 
service  is  performed  at  each  on  alternate  Sundays. 
There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 


CROS 


C  RO  S 


Church.  The  parochial  school  is  well  attended ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £46.  14.,  with  a  house  and  gar- 
den, and  the  fees  average  £10.  Several  of  those  ancient 
buildings  called  Picts'  houses  are  scattered  along  the 
shores  ;  and  in  Cross  was  formerly  a  small  but  hand- 
some structure  of  stone,  erected  by  James  Fea,  of  Clais- 
tron,  about  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  as  a 
family  chapel  and  burying-place.  This  was  taken  down 
when  the  property  was  in  the  possession  of  Malcolm 
Laing,  the  celebrated  historian  of  Scotland. 

CROSS,  or  Ness,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  with 
the  island  of  Rona-  Lewis,  in  the  parish  of  Barvas, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty,  27  miles  (N.  W.)  from 
Stornoway;  containing  1S10  inhabitants.  The  district 
is  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  seven  in  breadth,  and 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  the  Atlantic,  except  on  the 
south,  where  it  is  bounded  by  Barvas  and  Stornoway. 
It  forms  the  most  northerly  part  of  the  island  of  Lewis  ; 
its  shores  are  bold  and  wild.  In  many  parts  it  is  hilly, 
abounds  in  lakes,  and  its  large  moors  are  deep  and 
wet  :  the  population  is  employed  a  good  deal  in  cod  and 
ling  fishing.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
presbytery  of  Lewis  and  synod  of  Glenelg  :  the  church, 
situated  about  two  miles  from  the  Butt  of  Lewis,  was 
erected,  in  1S29,  by  the  Parliamentary  Commissioners, 
and  is  a  good  and  substantial,  but  plain  edifice.  The 
stipend  of  the  minister  is  £lc20,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  of  the  annual  value  of  £3  ;  patron,  the  Crown. 
There  is  a  school  under  the  General  Assembly's  Education 
Committee,  and  two  Gaelic  schools  are  supported  ;  in 
the  latter  Gaelic  alone  is  taught,  and  in  the  other  com- 
bined with  the  ordinary  branches  of  instruction.  Here 
are  ruins  of  a  place  of  worship,  supposed- to  have  been  a 
chapel  before  the  Reformation. 

CROSS,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Dunrossness, 
county  of  Shetland.  It  lies  a  short  distance  west  of 
the  mainland  of  the  parish,  at  the  entrance  of  Quendal 
bay,  and  is  one  of  the  smallest  of  the  Shetland  isles. 

CROSS-ARTHURLEE,  Renfrew.— See  Arthur--' 
lee,  Cross. 

CROSSFORD,  a  village,  in  the.  parish  and  district 
of  Dunfermline,  county  of  Fife,  2  miles  (S.  W.  by  W.) 
from  Dunfermline  ;  containing  443  inhabitants.  This 
village,  which  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Kincardine 
to  Alloa,  is  built  on  the  lands  of  Pitferraoe,  the  property 
of  Sir  Charles  Halket,  Bart.  It  is  small,  and  chiefly 
inhabited  by  persons  employed  in  agriculture,  and  in 
the  several  works  in  the  neighbourhood. 

CROSSFORD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Lesma- 
iiago,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  5  miles 
(N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Lanark  ;  containing  431  inhabitants. 
It  is  in  the  northern  part  of  the  parish,  and  on  the  high 
road  from  Lanark  to  Hamilton.  The  river  Clyde,  which 
bounds  the  parish  on  the  east,  passes  close  to  the  vil- 
lage. 

CROSSGATES,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Cults, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife  ;  containing  20  inha- 
bitants. 

CROSSGATES,  a  village,  chiefly  in  the  parish  of 
Dunfermline,  but  partly  in  that  of  Dalgety,  district 
of  Dunfermline,  county  of  Fife,  3  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from 
Dunfermline  ;  containing  646  inhabitants.  This  village 
is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  parishes  of  Dunferm- 
line, Inverkeithing,  and  Dalgety,  and  takes  its  name 
from  the  intersection  of  the  roads  from  Edinburgh  to 
Vol.  I.— 241 


Perth  and  from  Dunfermline  to  Kirkcaldy,  which  cross 
each  other  here.  It  is  well  built,  containing  several 
neat  houses,  and  a  good  inn,  where  an  agricultural  asso- 
ciation of  the  neighbouring  gentry  hold  their  meetings 
for  the  annual  distribution  of  prizes.  A  post-office  has 
been  established  under  that  of  Inverkeithing  ;  and  fairs 
are  held  on  the  last  Tuesday  in  April,  the  fourth  Wed- 
nesday in  May,  the  third  Tuesday  in  July,  the  second 
Thursday  in  September,  and  the  Friday  before  Hallow- 
tide.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
United  Associate  Synod. 

CROSSHILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kirk- 
michael,  district  of  Carrick,  county  of  Ayr,  2f  miles 
(S.  E.)  from  Maybole  ;  containing  1163  inhabitants. 
This  village,  which  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  river 
Girvan,  has  arisen  within  the  last  fifty  years,  and  is 
partly  built  on  lands  let  for  that  purpose  by  the  proprie- 
tor of  the  barony  of  Dalhoan.  The  inhabitants,  of  whom 
a  large  majority  are  settlers  from  Ireland,  are  chiefly 
employed  in  the  cotton  manufacture  established  by  the 
wholesale  houses  of  Glasgow,  who  have  agents  residing 
on  the  spot.  A  considerable  number  of  the  female 
population,  both  here  and  throughout  the  parish,  are 
employed  in  working  and  flowering  muslins  for  the 
Glasgow  and  Paisley  manufacturers,  and  their  work  is 
much  admired  for  its  elegance.  A  chapel  of  ease  has 
been  erected  ;  it  is  a  neat  and  substantial  edifice,  adapted 
for  a  congregation  of  more  than  450,  and  is  so  arranged 
as  to  admit  of  future  enlargement  by  the  addition  of 
galleries  when  requisite.  A  spacious  schoolroom  was 
erected  in  the  village  by  a  former  proprietor,  for  the 
instruction  of  the  children  of  this  part  of  the  parish, 
and  in  addition  to  the  use  of  the  schoolroom,  the 
master  till  recently  received  £3.  10.  from  the  heritors. 
This  school  has  lately  been  taken  into  connexion  with 
the  schools  of  the  General  Assembly. 

CROSSHILL,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Old  Monkland,  Middle  ward  of  the  county 
of  Lanark,  4|  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from  Glasgow ;  contain- 
ing, with  the  villages  of  Baillieston,  Barachnie,  Craigend, 
West  Merrystone,  and  Swinton,  2591  inhabitants.  This 
district  is,  for  the  most  part,  beautifully  situated,  the 
land  rising  considerably  above  the  vale  of  the  Clyde,  and 
commanding,  on  the  south,  an  interesting  view  of  all 
the  hills  and  heights  from  the  western  shore  to  the 
ridge  of  Tinto  on  the  east,  and  on  the  north  from  Ben- 
Lomond  all  along  the  Campsie  and  Kilsyth  hills.  It  is 
about  eighteen  square  miles  in  extent,  the  whole  under 
cultivation,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  acres  of  planta- 
tion. The  soil  is  chiefly  sandy,  but  towards  the  north 
of  a  stiff  clayey  nature,  and  the  farms  have  been  latterly 
very  much  improved  by  tile-draining  :  the  average  rent 
is  now  about  £2.  5.  per  acre.  The  freestone  and  coal 
formations  prevail,  and  there  are  seven  coal-mines,  of 
which  six  are  at  present  in  operation.  The  road  between 
Glasgow  and  Edinburgh,  and  the  Monkland  canal,  pass 
through  the  parish,  the  latter  affording  great  facilities 
for  the  conveyance  of  coal  to  Glasgow,  and  of  manure 
and  other  heavy  articles  to  the  farmers  along  the  whole 
of  its  line,  on  which  are  also  boats  for  passengers. 
Among  the  chief  mansions  are  Mount  Vernon,  Blair- 
tummock,  Easterhouse,  Baillieston  House,  and  Garrow- 
hill,  the  last  the  residence  for  some  time  of  a  former 
Duchess  of  Atholl.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  presbytery  of  Hamilton  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and 

2  I 


C  RO  S 


C  R  O  S 


Ayr:  the  church  was  erected  in  1833,  by  subscriptions 
from  the  neighbouring  heritors,  aided  by  £50  from  the 
university  of  Glasgow,  and  is  a  neat  plain  edifice,  with  a 
belfry,  and  contains  494  sittings,  of  which  twenty-six 
are  free.  The  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £70,  raised  by 
seat-rents ;  patrons,  the  Subscribers  and  Pew-holders. 
The  United  Secession  had  a  place  of  worship  here  for 
several  years,  but  it  has  been  converted  into  dwelling- 
houses.  There  are  schools  connected  with  some  of  the 
coal-works  ;  and  of  two  other  schools,  one  is  aided 
by  the  heritors  of  Old  Monkland  and  the  congregation 
of  Crosshill,  and  the  master  of  the  other  has  a  free 
house,  school-house,  and  garden. 

CROSSHILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cathcart, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  2  miles  (S.) 
from  Glasgow ;  containing  63  inhabitants.  It  lies  in 
the  northern  part  of  the  parish,  and  on  the  eastern  con- 
fines of  the  county  :  the  road  from  Glasgow  to  Cathcart 
runs  a  short  distance  westward  of  the  village.  There 
is  a  valuable  quarry  of  freestone,  which  is  extensively 
wrought  for  the  erection  of  buildings  in  Glasgow. 

CROSSHOUSE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kil- 
maues,  district  of  Cunninghame,  county  of  Ayr,  2| 
miles  (W.  by  N.)  from  Kilmarnock  ;  containing  255  in- 
habitants. This  place  is  situated  on  the  western  side 
of  the  Carmel  water,  and  on  the  roads  between  Irvine 
and  Kilmarnock,  and  Dundonald  and  Kilmaurs,  which 
here  form  a  junction.  In  the  village  is  a  small  school, 
of  which  the  master  is  allowed  £6  per  annum  and  a 
dwelling  by  the  heritors. 

CROSSLEE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Houston, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  \  a  mile  (S.  by 
E.)  from  Houston;  containing  711  inhabitants.  This 
village  is  in  the  southernmost  extremity  of  the  parish, 
and  on  the  banks  of  the  Gryfe  water,  which  is  here  very 
devious  in  its  course.  It  is  a  seat  of  the  cotton  manu- 
facture, and  there  is  an  extensive  mill,  which  employs  a 
great  part  of  the  population.  Iu  the  vicinity  is  Cross- 
lee  House.  A  school  has  been  established  for  the  use 
of  the  work-people  and  their  children. 

CROSSMICHAEL,  a  parish,  in  the  stewartry  of 
Kirkcudbright  ;  containing,  with  the  village  of  Clare- 
brand,  1321  inhabitants,  of  whom  222  are  in  the  village 
of  Crossmichael,  3|  miles  (N.)  from  Castle-Douglas. 
This  place,  which  is  of  remote  antiquity,  derives  its 
name,  in  old  documents  Corse- Michael,  from  the  dedica- 
tion of  its  church,  which  was  granted  to  the  abbey 
of  Sweetheart,  in  the  year  1275,  by  Dervorgille,  wife 
of  Allan,  Lord  of  Galloway,  and  mother  of  John 
Baliol,  King  of  Scotland.  The  parish  is  situated  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  the  stewartry,  and  is  bounded  on  the 
east  by  the  river  Urr,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Dee. 
It  is  about  four  miles  and  a  half  in  length,  and  nearly 
three  and  a  half  in  breadth,  comprising  9700  acres, 
which,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  acres  of  woodland 
and  plantations,  and  a  small  proportion  of  pasture,  are 
all  arable. 

The  surface  is  beautifully  diversified.  The  lands 
along  the  banks  of  the  Dee  form  part  of  an  extensive 
valley  in  rich  cultivation  ;  but,  both  from  the  Dee 
on  the  west,  and  the  Urr  on  the  east,  the  ground  rises 
gradually,  towards  the  centre,  into  a  ridge  of  which  the 
acclivities  are  marked  with  gentle  undulations,  all 
arable.  Towards  the  north-east,  are  several  hills  af- 
fording only  pasture  for  sheep  and  cattle,  and  of  which 
242 


some  have  been  planted  with  larch,  adding  greatly 
to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  There  are  three  lakes 
in  the  parish,  of  which  Loch  Roan,  situated  in  the 
highest  district,  is  about  fifty  acres  in  extent,  and  of 
very  considerable  depth  ;  there  are  two  outlets  from  it. 
Loch  Encrogo,  in  which  are  two  small  islands,  where 
sea-gulls  formerly  built  their  nests,  is  smaller  than 
Loch  Roan  ;  and  if  the  water  were  not  necessary  for 
driving  a  corn-mill,  it  might  easily  be  drained.  Loch 
Smaddy  is  still  smaller  in  extent.  All  these  lakes 
abound  with  trout,  perch,  pike,  and  eels. 

The  soil  is  partly  a  fertile  loam  alternated  with 
gravel  and  sand,  producing  favourable  crops  of  grain 
of  all  kinds,  with  potatoes  and  turnips  ;  and  the  pas- 
tures are  luxuriantly  rich.  The  system  of  agriculture 
is  improved,  and  some  of  the  lands  have  been  drained, 
though  much  still  remains  to  be  done  in  that  respect. 
The  cattle  are  generally  of  the  Galloway  breed ;  the 
cows  upon  the  dairy-farms  are  the  Ayrshire  :  large 
numbers  of  sheep  are  fed.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £8827-  The  plantations,  which  are 
well  managed,  and  in  a  thriving  condition,  are  chiefly 
larch.  The  substrata  are  mostly  greywacke  and  slate. 
The  seats  are,  Greenlaw,  Mollance,  Danevale,  Hillowton, 
CullgrufT,  and  Ernespie.  The  village  of  Crossmichael 
has  a  branch  post-office  under  that  of  Castle-Douglas  ; 
and  facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  good  roads, 
of  which  those  from  Kirkcudbright  to  Ayr,  and  from 
Dumfries  to  Portpatrick,  pass  through  the  parish. 
There  is  a  bridge  over  the  Dee  at  Glenlochar  ;  also  a 
ferry,  nearly  opposite  the  manse. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcudbright  and  synod 
of  Galloway.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £269.  15.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £2S  per  annum  ;  patron, 
Mrs.  Gauld.  The  church,  situated  in  the  western  por- 
tion of  the  parish,  is  a  plain  structure  erected  in  1751  ; 
it  has  been  frequently  repaired,  and  contains  650 
sittings.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Relief  Synod.  Two  parochial  schools  are  sup- 
ported ;  the  master  of  one  has  a  salary  of  £31,  with  a 
house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £30.  The 
other  school  was  built,  and  endowed  with  £11  per  an- 
num, by  William  Gordon,  Esq.,  in  addition  to  which 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £20,  with  a  house  and 
garden,  but  no  fees.  There  is  also  a  parochial  library. 
The  parish  formerly  contained  numerous  tumuli,  in 
which  were  found  human  bones  of  large  size  ;  and  there 
are  still  several  remains  of  ancient  forts.  Roman  urns 
and  weapons  have  been  discovered  by  the  plough ; 
also,  the  head  of  a  war-horse  in  bronze,  and  other 
Roman  relics.  On  a  steep  crag  overhanging  Loch  Roan, 
are  some  remains  of  a  hill  fortress  still  called  the  Kirk 
of  Loch  Roan. 

CROSSMILL,  a  village,  in  the  Abbey  parish  of  the 
town  of  Paisley,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Ren- 
frew ;  forming  part  of  the  late  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
Levern,  and  containing  265  inhabitants. 

CROSSMYLOOF,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cath- 
cart, Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  2^  miles 
(S.  S.  W.)  from  Glasgow ;  containing  5S7  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Glasgow  to  Pollock- 
shaws,  and  a  short  distance  north-eastward  of  the  latter 
town;  the  Whitecart  water  passes  in  the  vicinity,  on 
the  south.     There  is  a  small  dissenters'  school. 


CROY 


C  RUD 


CROVIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Gamrie,  county 
of  Banff,  6  miles  (W.  by  N.)  from  Aberdour ;  con- 
taining 164  inhabitants.  This  is  a  small  fishing-station, 
situated  on  the  coast  of  the  Moray  Frith,  about  a 
mile  to  the  east  of  the  village  of  Gardenstown,  and  is 
supposed  to  have  been  founded  in  the  early  part  of 
the  last  century.  Nine  boats  belonging  to  it  are  en- 
gaged in  fishing  for  haddock,  whiting,  and  other  small 
fish,  which  produce  as  much  as  £1215  per  annum  ;  and 
a  revenue  of  nearly  £400  per  annum  is  obtained  from 
cod  and  ling. 

CROY  and  DALCROSS,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county 
of  Nairn,  but  chiefly  in  that  of  Inverness,  7  miles 
(S.  W.)  from  Nairn  ;  containing  16S4  inhabitants.  The 
etymology  of  the  name  of  Croy  is  altogether  uncertain  : 
the  word  Dalcross  is  derived  from  a  Gaelic  term  signi- 
fying "  the  dale  at  the  end  of  the  ravine,"  and  this 
description  is  strikingly  applicable  to  the  locality.  The 
date  of  the  union  of  the  two  ancient  parishes  cannot 
now  be  ascertained  ;  but  upon  the  authority  of  char- 
ters still  extant,  the  event  appears  to  have  taken  place 
some  time  between  the  middle  and  the  close  of  the  15th 
century.  In  the  year  1128,  Dalcross,  which  anciently 
formed  part  of  the  lordship  of  Lovat,  was  annexed  to 
the  priory  of  Urquhart,  founded  in  1125  by  David  I., 
and  the  vicar  of  Dalcross,  by  order  of  the  prior,  also 
officiated  in  the  private  chapel  of  Kilravock.  A  large 
part  of  the  moor  of  Culloden  is  situated  in  the  parish  : 
here  was  fought,  on  the  lfith  April,  1746,  the  celebrated 
battle  which  decided  the  fate  of  the  Stuarts.  The 
parish,  the  outline  of  which  is  of  the  most  irregular  de- 
scription, is  about  twenty-one  miles  in  length,  and  three 
and  a  half  miles  in  average  breadth,  and  comprises  44,800 
acres.  The  surface  partly  consists  of  a  long  continuous 
vale,  watered  by  the  river  Nairn,  and  the  lands  of 
which  are  in  some  places  wooded,  and  in  others  rich 
and  well  cultivated  ;  and  an  extensive  tract  of  upland 
moor  reaches  from  the  river  to  the  north  and  north- 
western boundaries,  and  is  here  and  there  interspersed 
with  cultivated  portions,  but  is  in  general  bleak  and 
barren,  and  of  wild  appearance. 

The  soil  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river  is  light 
and  gravelly,  but,  if  well  farmed,  fertile  ;  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  parish,  it  comprises  all  the  varieties  of  sand, 
lime,  fine  vegetable  mould,  and  cold  and  wet,  and 
sometimes  ferruginous,  earth.  In  the  centre  of  the 
district,  it  is  a  very  fine  mould ;  and  between  this  and 
the  western  portion  called  Leys,  is  the  moor,  covering 
about  1700  acres,  the  soil  of  which  exhibits  sand,  lime, 
and  clay,  with  various  admixtures.  The  Leys  district 
is  chiefly  a  siliceous  or  gravelly  earth  incumbent  on  red 
sandstone.  The  general  husbandry  is  improved,  but 
the  old  system  is  still  partly  followed,  to  the  exclusion 
of  many  modern  improvements.  Some  of  the  larger 
proprietors  have  set  an  example  to  the  tenants,  in 
the  erection  of  inclosures,  and  the  reclaiming  of  large 
tracts  of  waste  ground,  which  have  been  sheltered  with 
belts  of  plantations,  and  are  so  well  cultivated  as  to 
produce  fine  crops  of  wheat,  oats,  and  barley.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3917.  The 
rocks  comprise  granite,  gneiss,  and  the  old  red  sand- 
stone :  several  quarries  of  the  last  are  in  operation. 
Some  of  the  trees  of  the  plantations  are  of  great  age 
and  stature,  and  400  acres  have  been  lately  set  apart 
for  larch,  oak,  and  other  wood,  in  addition  to  the  ex- 
243 


tensive  plantations  already  existing.  The  castle  of  Kil- 
ravock, situated  upon  a  bold  rugged  rock,  and  the 
residence  of  the  Roses  since  the  year  1460,  is  the  pro- 
perty of  Hugh  Rose,  Esq.,  the  chief,  and  the  twenty- 
fourth  in  lineal  descent.  Dalcross  Castle,  built  by 
Lord  Lovat  in  1621,  stands  in  the  midst  of  imposing 
scenery,  and  commands  extensive  views  of  the  most 
interesting  character  :  Leys  Castle,  recently  built,  is  a 
strikingly  beautiful  edifice,  and  also  commands  views 
embracing  every  description  of  picturesque  scenery. 
The  mansion  of  Holm  is  an  elegant  modern  structure, 
situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Nairn  ;  and  that  of  Can- 
tray,  also  a  modern  edifice,  is  nearly  encompassed  on 
the  south  by  the  same  river.  A  market  is  held  for  the 
sale  of  cattle  and  sheep,  on  the  Saturday  immediately 
following  the  great  Beauly  market.  The  parish  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Nairn  and  synod  of  Moray,  and  in  the 
patronage  of  Earl  Cawdor  and  Mr.  Rose,  who  present 
alternately ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £239,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £11  per  annum.  The 
remains  of  Dalcross  church  have  almost  disappeared  : 
the  present  parish  church,  containing  sittings  for  52™ 
persons,  was  built  in  1767,  and  repaired  in  1829. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual 
branches  ;  the  master  has  the  maximum  salary,  with  a 
house,  and  about  £20  fees.  The  parish  contains  several 
Druidical  circles  ;  and  to  the  west  of  the  church  is 
a  large  grey  stone  called  Clach  na  Seanaish,  or  the 
listening  stone,  at  which,  in  ancient  times,  secret  com- 
munications were  made  relating  to  the  movements  and 
designs  of  hostile  clans. 

CRUDEN,  or  Invercruden,  a  parish,  in  the  dis- 
trict of  Ellon,  county  of  Aberdeen,  7  miles  (S.  S.  W.) 
from  Peterhead  ;  containing,  with  the  villages  of  Finny- 
fold  or  Whinnie  Fauld,  Bullers-Buchan,  and  the  Ward, 
2349  inhabitants.  This  place  was  the  scene  of  a  memo- 
rable battle  fought  in  the  year  1005,  upon  a  plain  near 
the  bay  of  Ardendraught,  between  Malcolm  II.  and  the 
Danes  under  Canute,  in  which  the  latter,  who  had  a 
castle  in  the  neighbourhood,  were  totally  defeated.  The 
parish  is  situated  on  the  shore  of  the  German  Ocean, 
and  is  eleven  miles  in  length,  and  varies  in  breadth  from 
four  to  seven  miles,  comprising  mostly  cultivated  land. 
The  sea  forms  the  southern  boundary,  and  the  coast 
is  marked  by  bold  and  lofty  rocks  of  red  granite,  from 
the  east  end  to  Slains  Castle,  close  to  which  is  the  Ward, 
a  small  fishing  village  affording  occasionally  a  landing 
place  for  coal  and  lime.  Beyond  this,  to  Sand  End,  a 
distance  of  about  two  miles,  stretches  a  fine  sandy  beach 
called  the  Bay  of  Cruden,  from  the  south  extremity  of 
which  runs  a  ridge  of  sunken  rocks  named  the  Scares 
of  Cruden  ;  and  from  this  place  the  shore  is  exceedingly 
abrupt  and  majestic  all  along  the  south,  the  rocks  con- 
sisting of  black  basalts.  The  climate  is  bleak ;  and 
when  the  wind  is  high  the  grandeur  of  the  ocean  is  so 
striking  that  Dr.  Johnson,  who  visited  this  spot  in  his 
celebrated  tour,  declared  that  Slains  Castle  was  the 
place  from  which  he  should  wish  to  behold  a  storm. 
Husbandry  is  on  a  respectable  footing,  great  improve- 
ments having  been  made,  especially  in  draining ;  and 
the  farmers,  who  have  in  general  commodious  houses, 
live  comfortably.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £S792.  Quarries  of  red  granite  were  in  ope- 
ration some  time  since,  and  supplied  a  material  for 
several  of  the  London  bridges  ;  but  they  have  all  been 

2  12 


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closed.  Very  little  wood  is  to  be  seen,  and  this  is 
chiefly  in  the  vicinity  of  Slains  Castle,  a  remarkably 
strong  edifice,  built  on  the  margin  of  the  sea,  and  the 
residence  for  generations  of  the  earls  of  Erroll.  A  card- 
ing and  spinning  mill  was  lately  erected  on  the  estate 
of  Aquaharney,  and  is  on  a  somewhat  extensive  scale  : 
the  thread  manufactories  formerly  employing  so  many 
hands  have  become  totally  extinct.  The  parish,  which 
has  a  post-office,  is  situated  on  the  public  road  between 
Aberdeen  and  Peterhead,  and  to  the  latter  place  and 
Newburgh  the  produce  is  sent  for  sale,  except  that  part 
of  the  cattle  disposed  of  at  various  other  markets.  A 
small  cattle-fair  is  held  in  April,  and  another  in  May; 
and  some  business  is  done  in  the  sale  of  fish,  a  salmon- 
fishery  being  in  operation  near  Ward,  and  there  being 
stations  at.  the  other  villages  for  the  fish  common  to 
the  coast.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ellon  and 
synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  of 
Erroll;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £204,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  of  six  acres  of  arable  land  and  pasturage 
ground.  The  church  was  built  in  17/6,  and  lately  en- 
larged. A  place  of  worship  has  been  recently  erected 
in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church,  and  there  is  also  an 
episcopal  chapel.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruc- 
tion in  the  usual  branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£26,  with  £18  fees,  and  also  participates  in  the  Dlpk 
bequest.  A  parochial  library  was  established  a  few 
years  since. 

CUFFABOUT,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Carriden, 
county  of  Linlithgow  ;  containing  16  inhabitants. 
This  is  a  very  small  place,  situated  on  the  shore  of  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  a  short  distance  east-south-east  of  Bridge- 
ness,  and  close  to  the  parochial  church. 

CULBOK1E,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Urquhart 
and  Wester  Logie,  county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty; 
containing  107  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  a  short  dis- 
tance eastward  from  the  shore  of  the  Frith  of  Cromarty, 
and  about  two  miles  and  a  half  east-north-east  from 
Dingwall.  Four  fairs  are  holden  in  the  course  of  the 
year. 

CULCABOCH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  and  county 
of  Inverness,  1  mile  (S.  E.)  from  Inverness;  contain- 
ing 279  inhabitants.  This  village,  which  is  pleasantly 
situated  to  the  west  of  the  Castle  Hill,  is  inhabited 
chiefly  by  persons  employed  in  agriculture,  and  by  a 
few  wrights  and  masons. 

CULLEN,  a  burgh,  sea- 
port, and  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Banff,  5  miles 
(W.  by  N.)  from  Portsoy, 
and  170  (N.  by  E.)  from 
Edinburgh:  containing  1564 
I  inhabitants,  of  whom  712  are 
in  the  town  of  Cullen,  7  1 1  in 

— liSS^^J?)  tne  sea-town  °f  Cullen,  and 
IjSSlfw^)    141     in    the    rural    district. 
This  place,  the  origin  of  the 
name  of  which  is   altogether 
Burgh  Seal.  uncertain,      was      originally 

called  Inverculan,  being  bounded  on  the  north  and  west 
by  the  water  of  Cullen,  which  falls  into  the  sea  on  the 
western  side  of  the  parish  ;  and  in  ancient  times  it 
formed  part  of  the  parish  of  Fordyce.  Its  early  history 
is  for  the  most  part  involved  in  obscurity ;  but  there 
appears  to  be  no  reason  to  doubt  the  truth  of  the  tradi- 
244 


tion,  that  a  severe  conflict  took  place  here  between  the 
Danes  and  the  Scots  under  Indulfus,  in  the  year  96O. 
The  king  was  killed  by  an  arrow  at  the  head  of  his 
troops ;  but  the  enemy  were  completely  routed,  and 
this  battle  is  supposed  to  have  been  among  the  last 
fought  with  the  Danes  before  their  expulsion  from  the 
kingdom  in  the  beginning  of  the  eleventh  century.  It 
is  known  by  the  name  of  "the  battle  of  the  Baads,"  on 
account  of  the  field  of  action,  which  was  the  moor  of 
Rannachie,  being  called  the  Baads  of  Cullen  ;  tumuli 
abound  in  every  direction,  and  the  decayed  bones  and 
fragments  of  arms  contained  in  them  are  concluded  to 
be  the  deposits  of  the  remains  of  the  defeated  army. 
The  lands  have,  from  a  remote  period,  been  the  property 
of  the  ancestors  of  the  Earl  of  S?afield,  the  present  pro- 
prietor, who  traces  his  descent  from  Gilchrist  Ogilvie, 
created  Earl  of  Angus  by  Ring  Malcolm  Canmore.  A 
bede-house  was  erected,  most  probably  by  one  of  this 
family,  and  endowed  for  the  support  of  eight  decayed 
farmers  and  eight  farmers'  widows  ;  but  the  hospital 
system  was  abolished  about  sixty  j'ears  since,  and  the 
funds  are  now  applied  by  the  Earl  of  Seafield,  who  has 
the  management,  to  the  distribution  of  meal  to  poor 
families  belonging  to  his  estates  in  the  parishes  of 
Cullen,  Rathven,  Deskford,  and  Fordyce.  The  church 
of  Cullen,  originally  dedicated  to  St.  Mary,  was  founded 
by  Robert  I.,  whose  queen,  Elizabeth,  is  supposed  to 
have  been  buried  in  it,  and  who  appointed  a  chaplain, 
with  an  endowment,  to  offer  up  prayers  for  her  soul. 
It  had  a  provost,  six  prebendaries,  and  two  singing 
boys,  whose  offices  were  founded  in  1543,  by  one  of  the 
Ogilvies,  aided  by  several  eminent  persons  of  both  the 
clergy  and  laity  :  the  foundation  was  endowed  with  con- 
siderable property  and  many  privileges,  and  was  sub- 
sequently confirmed  by  William,  Bishop  of  Aberdeen, 
and  John,  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrew's.  The  town  was 
much  exposed  in  turbulent  times  to  the  violence  of 
party  commotions.  It  was  repeatedly  plundered  by  the 
Marquess  o!  Montrose,  and  on  one  occasion,  in  Mav, 
1645,  he  sent  troops  to  the  place,  who  first  plundered 
it  of  every  thing  valuable,  and  then  burnt  it  to  the 
ground. 

The  town  is  situated  on  the  coast  of  the  Moray  Frith, 
and  consists  of  two  parts,  entirely  separated,  called  re- 
spectively the  New-town,  and  the  Sea  or  Fish  town. 
The  former  of  these  received  its  distinguishing  appella- 
tion from  its  recent  erection  in  place  of  the  old  town, 
which  was  meanly  built,  and  entirely  demolished  about 
the  year  1822,  to  make  room  for  the  improvements  of 
Cullen  House.  It  stands  nearer  to  the  sea  than  the  old 
town,  being  close  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  Sea- 
town,  and  is  on  a  much  higher  site.  There  are  many 
good  houses,  regularly  and  tastefully  disposed  ;  and  it 
has  altogether  a  neat  and  interesting  appearance,  and 
forms  a  striking  contrast  to  the  miscellaneous  collection 
of  fishermen's  tenements  below,  constituting  the  Sea- 
town.  All  the  buildings  contemplated  in  the  plan  are 
not  yet  completed  ;  but  the  favourable  situation  of 
the  place  for  fishing  and  agricultural  occupations,  and 
the  agreeable  character  of  the  surrounding  district, 
afford  every  promise  of  future  advancement.  Its  con- 
tiguity to  the  beautiful  bay  of  Cullen,  and  the  pictu- 
resque grounds  of  Cullen  House,  with  the  traffic  of  the 
post-road  from  Banff  to  Fochabers,  which  runs  through 
it,  invest  the  immediate  locality  with  a  lively  and  pleas- 


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ing  appearance,  while  the  highly  diversified  scenery 
around,  comprising  hill  and  dale,  wood  and  water,  with 
well  cultivated  fields,  and  the  precipitous  and  majestic 
rocks  along  the  shore,  unite  to  rcuder  the  environs  at- 
tractive. Some  of  the  eminences  command  fine  views 
of  the  sea,  enlivened  with  trading  vessels  and  fishing- 
hoats,  with  the  lofty  headland  of  Scarnose  at  the  western 
extremity  of  the  bay,  and  the  Castle  hill,  the  site  of  an 
old  fortification,  overhanging  the  Sea-town  ;  and  over 
the  Frith,  in  the  distance,  are  seen  the  sable  mountains 
of  Sutherland  and  Caithness.  The  Bin  hill,  bordering 
upon  the  parish,  and  rising  IO76  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
which  is  planted  with  trees  of  various  kinds,  is  also 
a  prominent  object  in  the  surrounding  scenery,  and 
affords  an  excellent  landmark  to  mariners.  The  town 
contains  numerous  good  shops,  and  has  every  conve- 
nience calculated  to  render  it  a  desirable  place  of  resi- 
dence :  many  of  the  houses  are  lighted  with  gas,  sup- 
plied by  a  company  established  in  1841,  with  a  capital 
of  £1000.  Among  the  public  buildings  the  most  con- 
spicuous is  the  hotel,  erected  in  1S22,  at  a  cost  of 
£3000,  by  the  Earl  of  Seafield.  It  is  situated  in  the 
public  square,  and  has  attached  to  it  an  elegant  ball- 
room, forty-three  feet  long  and  twenty-three  broad ;  a 
spacious  room  in  which  the  sheriff  and  justice-of-peace 
courts  are  held  ;  and  the  council-room  of  the  burgh,  an 
elegant  circular  apartment,  twenty-three  feet  in  diameter 
and  sixteen  feet  high. 

The  inhabitants  were  formerly  much  engaged  in 
manufactures.  In  1748,  the  Earl  of  Findlater  and  Sea- 
field  introduced  the  manufacture  of  linen,  and  subse- 
quently sixty-five  looms  were  constantly  at  work,  some 
of  them  for  weaving  damask,  besides  seven  stocking- 
looms.  In  addition  to  this,  a  great  number  of  webs 
were  given  out  to  be  woven  by  country  people  in  their 
own  houses  :  but  these  sources  of  employment  have 
now  all  ceased,  and  the  inhabitants  are.  almost  exclu- 
sively occupied  in  agriculture  and  fishing.  There  are 
about  thirty  boats  belonging  to  the  place  which  are  en- 
gaged in  fishing  for  cod,  skate,  ling,  and  haddocks  :  the 
herring-fisher}',  on  account  of  some  recent  failures  in 
the  quantity  of  fish,  has  been  given  up,  and  the  men 
and  their  boats  are  hired  every  season  by  the  curers 
at  Wick,  Macduff,  Fraserburgh,  and  Peterhead.  The 
average  annual  value  of  the  several  fisheries  carried  on 
in  the  bay  is  £7543,  including  £*50  for.  the  salmon- 
fishery.  About  twenty  persons  are  employed  in  boat- 
building, and  complete  above  forty  boats  each  year  ; 
and  recently,  five  vessels,  varying  in  burthen  from  40 
to  110  tons,  have  been  built  here  in  three  years.  The 
harbour,  which  is  small  but  convenient,  was  constructed 
by  the  Earl  of  Seafield  in  1S17,  and  enlarged  in  1S34 
by  an  additional  quay,  the  cost  of  the  whole  work 
having  amounted  to  more  than  £10,000  ;  the  water  at 
neap  tides  is  eight  feet  and  a  half  deep,  and  twelve  feet 
at  spring  tides.  There  are  four  vessels  belonging  to  the 
port  of  from  40  to  100  tons  each,  the  aggregate  bur- 
then being  270  tons.  Coal,  salt,  staves,  and  barley  for 
distillation,  constitute  the  chief  imports  ;  and  the  ex- 
ports are,  herrings,  dried-fish,  timber,  oats,  and  pota- 
toes. A  distillery  was  erected  in  1SC24,  and  considerably 
enlarged  in  1S28  ;  it  produces  annually  upwards  of 
25,000  gallons  of  proof  spirits,  and  on  the  water  of 
Cullen  are  a  lint-mill,  a  saw-mill,  and  a  meal-mill. 
Steam-boats  plying  between  Inverness  and  Leith  visit 
245 


the  bay.  A  weekly  market  is  held  for  the  sale  of  grain 
during  the  spring  months  ;  and  there  are  fairs,  princi- 
pally for  the  hiring  of  servants,  on  the  third  Friday  in 
May,  the  second  Friday  in  November,  and  the  7th  of 
January.  Cullen  is  a  royal  burgh  of  considerable  an- 
tiquity, as  appears  from  a  charter  of  James  I.,  dated 
1455,  ratifying  one  of  Robert  I.,  by  which  the  usual 
liberties  and  privileges  had  been  granted.  It  was  at 
one  time  a  constabulary,  of  which  the  Earl  of  Findlater 
was  hereditary  constable,  by  virtue  of  an  ancient  right ; 
but  the  council  now  consists  of  a  provost,  three  bailies, 
a  dean  of  guild,  treasurer,  and  thirteen  others,  the  juris- 
diction extending  over  a  district  of  about  three  miles 
from  east  to  west,  and  two  from  north  to  south.  The 
parliamentary  boundaries  are  much  less  extensive  than 
those  of  the  royalty  :  the  burgh  is  united  with  Elgin, 
Banff,  Inverury,  Peterhead,  and  Kintore,  in  sending  a 
member,  and  of  the  constituency  of  the  whole  thirty- 
eight  belong  to  Cullen.  A  sheriff  small-debt  court,  for 
sums  not  exceeding  £S.  6.  8.,  is  held  on  the  second 
Thursday  in  February,  June,  and  October ;  and  a  jus- 
tice-of-peace court  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  every  month, 
for  sums  not  exceeding  £5.  A  lock-up  house  containing 
three  apartments  is  used  for  the  punishment  of  delin- 
quents, and  for  the  custody  of  persons  to  be  afterwards 
sent  to  the  county  gaol. 

The  parish  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length, 
from  north  to  south,  and  one  mile  in  breadth,  and  com- 
prises 684  acres,  of  which  34  are  occupied  as  the  site 
of  the  town,  425  are  arable,  1 1 0  park  grounds  belong- 
ing to  Cullen  House,  and  the  remainder  waste  pastur- 
age and  moor,  along  the  sea-shore.  The  land  in  general 
is  of  superior  quality,  and  consists  of  a  rich  loam,  in- 
cumbent on  clay  or  gravel,  and  yielding  crops  of  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  potatoes,  and  turnips ;  the  soil  on  the 
higher  grounds  is  thin,  resting  on  gravel,  but  tolerably 
productive,  and  most  of  the  land  owes  its  abundant 
returns,  in  a  great  measure,  to  the  profusion  of  fish- 
refuse  applied  as  manure.  About  200  acres  of  land  are 
let  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  town,  in  small  allotments, 
each  being  sufficient  for  the  support  of  a  cow.  The 
towns-people  usually  keep  the  Banffshire  cows ;  the 
cattle  on  the  farms  are  mostly  a  cross  between  the 
Banffshire  and  Teeswater  :  the  sheep  are  chiefly  of  the 
Cheviot,  kind.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £2243.  Cullen  House,  situated  at  a  small  distance 
from  the  town,  is  an  ancient  structure  with  many  splen- 
did apartments,  elegantly  furnished,  and  is  embosomed 
in  plantations  covering  about  thirty  acres,  and  com- 
prising all  the  trees,  both  useful  and  ornamental,  found 
in  the  country.  At  the  base  of  the  rock  on  which  the 
mansion  stands,  flows  the  water  of  Cullen,  here  crossed 
by  a  stone  bridge  of  one  arch  ;  and  the  numerous  wind- 
ing walks  and  drives  also  contribute  to  the  beautifully 
picturesque  appearance  of  the  pleasure-grounds.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Fordyce  and  synod  of 
Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Seafield. 
The  minister's  stipend  is  £156,  of  which  about  a  fourth 
is  received  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £2/  per  annum.  The  church,  accom- 
modating 800  persons,  is  a  cruciform  structure  of  great 
antiquity,  but  still  in  very  good  condition.  It  is  situ- 
ated in  the  centre  of  the  old  burial-ground,  nearly  en- 
compassed by  the  lands  of  Cullen  House  ;  and  the  in- 
terior contains  many  elegant  monuments  to  members 


C  UL  R 


CULR 


Bur  eh  Seal. 


of  the  Findlater  and  Seafield  family  who  were  buried 
here.  A  portion  of  the  parish  of  Rathven  has  long  been 
attached  to  Cullen  quoad  sacra,  and  a  church  was 
erected  in  that  district  in  1839,  chiefly  by  the  assistance 
of  the  Earl  of  Seafield.  A  place  of  worship  has  been 
erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church.  The  paro- 
chial or  grammar  school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual 
branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £36,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  between  £10  and  £15  fees,  and  a  share  in 
the  Dick  bequest.  A  parochial  library  was  established 
in  1830. 

CULLICUDDEN,  Ross  andCROMARTY.— See  Kirk- 

MICHAEL  AND  CULLICUDDEN. 

CULROSS,a  royal  burgh 
and  a  parish,  in  the  county 
of  Perth,  7  miles  (W.)  from 
Dunfermline,  and  21  (W.  N. 
Xff  W.)  from  Edinburgh  ;  con- 
pjtaining,  with  the  villages  of 
^i/iHf  Blairburn  and  Lowvalley- 
§  field,  1444  inhabitants,  of 
whom  603  are  in  the  burgh. 
This  place,  which  is  of  re- 
mote antiquity,  derives  its 
name  from  its  situation  in 
a  detached  portion  of  the 
county,  forming  part  of  the  peninsula  of  Fifeshire.  It 
was  anciently  the  property  of  the  Macduffs,  of  whose 
baronial  residence,  Dunnemarl  Castle,  there  are  still 
some  remains  on  Castle  Hill,  on  the  banks  of  the  Forth, 
to  the  west  of  the  town.  Here,  according  to  tradition, 
was  perpetrated  the  murder  of  Lady  Macduff  and  her 
children  by  the  usurper  Macbeth.  A  monastery  was 
founded  in  1278,  by  Malcolm,  Thane  of  Fife,  for  bre- 
thren of  the  Cistercian  order,  and  dedicated  to  the  Vir- 
gin Mary  and  St.  Serf  or  Servanus.  It  continued  to 
flourish  till  the  Reformation,  at  which  time  Alexander, 
son  of  Sir  James  Colville,  was  abbot ;  and  to  his  brother, 
Sir  James,  the  revenues,  amounting  to  £768.  16.  "i\.  in 
money,  besides  considerable  payments  in  kind,  were,  in 
1604,  granted  by  James  VI.,  who  also  raised  him  to 
the  peerage  by  the  title  of  Lord  Colville  of  Culross. 
The  abbey  and  lands  attached  to  it  subsequently  be- 
came the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Dundonald,  from 
whom  they  were  purchased  by  Sir  Robert  Preston, 
Bart.,  whose  representative  is  the  present  proprietor. 

The  town,  which  is  situated  on  the  north  shore  of 
the  Frith  of  Forth,  consists  of  one  principal  street,  ex- 
tending from  the  Frith  by  a  precipitous  acclivity  to- 
wards the  north,  and  of  several  detached  portions  along 
the  coast.  The  houses  are  generally  of  ancient  charac- 
ter, and  to  most  of  them  is  attached  a  portion  of  garden 
ground,  presenting,  as  seen  from  the  Frith,  a  picturesque 
and  interesting  appearance,  which  is  heightened  by 
numerous  handsome  seats  and  pleasing  villas  in  the 
immediate  vicinity.  A  very  considerable  trade  was 
formerly  carried  on  in  the  export  of  coal,  of  which  a 
mine  had  been  excavated,  extending  for  some  distance 
under  the  waters  of  the  Frith,  and  also  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  salt.  The  produce  of  the  mine  was  chiefly  sent 
to  Holland,  whence  various  kinds  of  merchandise  were 
imported,  and  distributed  from  this  town  to  different 
parts  of  the  country  ;  but  the  mine  was  long  since  ex- 
hausted, and  the  trade  has  been  discontinued.  The 
manufacture  of  girdles  for  baking  oatmeal  cakes,  for 
246 


which  the  town  had  patents  from  James  VI.  and  Charles 
II.,  was  also  pursued  for  some  time  ;  but  since  the 
establishment  of  the  Carron  iron-works,  where  they 
are  made  at  a  very  reduced  price,  that  manufacture  has 
ceased.  The  only  trade  now  carried  on  is  the  weaving 
of  linen  for  the  manufacturers  of  Dunfermline,  and  of 
cotton-cloths  for  those  of  Glasgow,  in  which  about 
seventy  persons  are  employed.  Fairs  are  held  on  the 
2nd  of  July  and  the  third  Wednesday  in  November ; 
and  there  are  two  good  inns. 

Culross  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh  in  1588,  by 
charter  of  James  VI.,  under  which  it  is  governed  by  a 
chief  magistrate  and  nineteen  councillors.  There  are 
seven  incorporated  trades,  the  weavers,  wrights,  shoe- 
makers, bakers,  smiths,  tailors,  and  butchers,  into  which 
only  burgesses  are  admissible ;  the  fees  for  admission 
vary,  for  sons  of  freemen  from  13s.  6rf.  to  £1.  1.,  and 
for  strangers  from  £2.  5.  to  £3.  The  magistrates  have 
the  usual  civil  and  criminal  jurisdiction,  but  no  cases 
have  come  under  their  notice  since  the  year  1828.  The 
burgh  is  associated  with  those  of  Dunfermline,  Inver- 
keithing,  Queensferry,  and  Stirling,  in  returning  a  mem- 
ber to  the  imperial  parliament ;  the  number  of  qualified 
voters  is  twenty-two.  The  town-house  is  an  ancient, 
building,  to  which  is  attached  a  small  prison  containing 
two  apartments,  one  for  debtors,  and  the  other  for 
criminal  offenders,  chiefly  against  the  police.  Facility 
of  communication  is  afforded  by  good  roads,  of  which 
a  turnpike-road,  recently  constructed,  passes  through 
the  centre  of  the  parish  to  Dunfermline  ;  and  a  pier 
has  been  constructed  at  the  old  harbour,  from  which 
there  is  a  ferry  to  Borrowstounness,  on  the  opposite 
shore  of  the  Frith. 

The  parish  formerly  included  the  barony  of  Kincar- 
dine, which  was  separated  from  it  in  1672,  and  added 
to  the  parish  of  Tulliallan.  It  is  about  four  miles  in 
length,  and  nearly  of  equal  breadth,  comprising  about 
10,000  acres,  of  which  nearly  4000  are  arable,  2000 
woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  pasture, 
garden  ground,  and  waste.  The  surface  rises  in  bold 
undulations  from  the  shore  of  the  Frith,  for  some  dis- 
tance towards  the  north  and  north-west,  forming  a 
ridge  of  low  hills,  beyond  which  it  subsides  into  a 
fertile  valley  watered  by  a  rivulet  called  the  Bluther. 
The  soil  along  the  shore  is  a  deep  black  loam  of  great 
fertility ;  towards  the  middle  of  the  parish,  of  a  clayey 
nature,  but  under  good  management  producing  favour- 
able crops  ;  and  towards  the  north  and  north-west,  of 
poorer  quality.  The  crops  are,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  peas, 
beans,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the  system  of  husbandry 
is  in  a  very  advanced  state.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £5600.  The  plantations,  which  are 
very  extensive,  and  in  a  thriving  condition,  contain 
every  variety  of  firs  and  hard-wood  trees,  of  which 
latter  oak  and  beech  seem  best  adapted  to  the  soil.  The 
principal  substrata  are  clay-slate  and  sandstone.  Clay 
of  good  quality  for  pottery  and  for  fire-bricks  may  be 
procured  in  abundance ;  limestone  and  ironstone  are 
also  found,  but  not  in  sufficient  quantities  to  remunerate 
the  labour  of  working.  The  mansion  houses  are,  Cul- 
ross Abbey,  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Bruce  family,  and 
afterwards  of  the  Earl  of  Dundonald,  beautifully  situ- 
ated on  the  shore  ;  Valleyfield,  lately  the  seat  of  Sir 
Robert  Preston,  an  elegant  mansion  in  a  demesne  taste- 
fully laid  out,  and  embellished  with  plantations  ;  Castle 


C  U  L  S 


C  U  LS 


Hill,  a  handsome  modern  seat,  near  the  site  of  the  castle 
of  the  Macduff's  ;  and  Blair  Castle,  built  on  the  site  of 
an  ancient  seat  erected  by  Hamilton,  Archbishop  of  St. 
Andrew's. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Dunfermline  and  synod  of 
Fife.  The  living  is  collegiate  ;  the  minister  of  the  first 
charge  has  a  stipend  of  £156,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £20,  and  the  minister  of  the  second  charge 
£116,  with  an  allowance  in  money  in  lieu  of  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £25.  Lady  Keith  and  Lady  Baird 
Preston  are  alternate  patrons.  The  church  is  a  portion 
of  the  ancient  abbey,  originally  a  venerable  cruciform 
structure,  with  a  lofty  tower  rising  from  the  centre, 
which,  with  the  choir  now  appropriated  as  the  parish 
church,  and  containing  700  sittings,  are  the  only  parts 
remaining.  On  the  north  side  is  the  burying-place  of 
the  Bruce  family,  containing  a  monument  on  which  are 
recumbent  figures  of  Sir  George  Bruce  and  his  lady, 
and,  beneath,  of  their  seven  children  in  a  kneeling  pos- 
ture, beautifully  sculptured  in  white  marble.  On  one 
side  of  this  aisle  is  a  projecting  piece  of  masonry  con- 
taining, in  a  silver  case,  the  heart  of  Edward,  second 
Lord  Bruce  of  Kinross,  who  fell  in  a  duel  near  Bergen-op- 
Zoom,  in  1614.  The  parochial  school  is  well  attended; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  gar- 
den, and  the  fees  average  £30,  in  addition  to  which  he 
receives  £10  from  a  bequest.  There  is  also  an  endowed 
school  for  boys  and  girls,  of  which  the  master  receives 
a  salary  of  £36,  with  a  house  and  garden,  for  gratui- 
tously teaching  twenty  children,  and  superintending  a 
Sunday  school. 

Dr.  Bill,  a  native  of  the  parish,  who  died  in  London 
in  173S,  bequeathed  £1000  for  the  payment  of  small 
sums  quarterly  to  four  decayed  tradesmen  and  two 
tradesmen's  widows,  for  apprenticing  young  persons, 
and  for  the  foundation  of  a  bursary  in  one  of  the  uni- 
versities. Sir  George  Bruce  of  Carnock,  in  1639, 
founded  an  hospital,  which  he  endowed  for  the  main- 
tenance of  six  aged  widows  of  the  parish  ;  the  building 
has  long  since  fallen  into  decay,  but  the  income  from 
the  endowment  is  distributed  among  eight  widows.  The 
late  Sir  Robert  Preston  and  his  lady  bequeathed  an 
endowment  for  the  distribution  of  meal  and  money, 
weekly,  to  six  aged  men  and  six  aged  women,  who  have 
lived  for  ten  years  in  the  parish.  Connected  with  this 
charity  is  a  building  in  which  soup  is  given,  two  days 
in  the  week,  during  the  winter,  to  families  in  this  and 
the  adjoining  parish  of  Torryburn.  Miss  Halkerston, 
of  Carskerdo,  in  the  county  of  Fife,  lately  left  a  sum  of 
money  to  be  invested  in  land,  for  the  relief  of  indus- 
trious persons  not  receiving  parochial  aid.  At  the  east 
end  of  the  town  are  the  remains  of  St.  Mungo's  chapel, 
near  which,  according  to  tradition,  that  saint  was  born, 
and  educated  by  Serf,  the  patron  saint  of  the  parish  ; 
and  to  the  west  of  the  abbey  are  some  remains  of  the 
ancient  parish  church. 

CULSAMOND,  or  Culsalmond,  a  parish,  in  the 
district  of  Garioch,  county  of  Aberdeen,  2§  miles 
(N.  W.)  from  Old  Rayne;  containing  1104  inhabitants. 
This  place  is  said  to  have  derived  its  name  from  the 
Gaelic  term  Cul-Sal-Mon,  signifying  the  end  of  the  hill 
lands.  The  parish  is  about  four  and  a  half  miles  in 
length,  from  north  to  south,  and  three  in  breadth  ;  and 
comprises  7400  acres,  of  which  4000  are  in  tillage,  300 
247 


in  pasture,  900  in  plantations,  and  the  remainder  uncul- 
tivated. The  surface  is  level,  with  the  exception  of  one 
or  two  moderate  elevations,  of  which  Culsamond  hill 
commands  a  fine  view  of  Belrinnes  on  the  west,  and,  on 
the  north-west,  of  the  Caithness  hills,  and  part  of  the 
Moray  Frith  and  of  the  Buchan  district  in  the  distance. 
The  river  Urie  passes  through  the  whole  length  of  the 
parish,  and,  after  flowing  for  about  nineteen  miles  from 
its  source  in  the  parish  of  Gartly,  and  drawing  into  its 
channel  many  minor  streams,  empties  itself  into  the 
Don  at  Inverury.  The  soil  is  various,  but  in  general 
consists  of  a  dark  loam,  partly  on  a  sandy  and  iron- 
stone bottom  ;  clay  in  some  places  forms  the  subsoil, 
and  the  land  is  for  the  most  part  fertile,  and  the  crops 
usually  early.  In  the  hill  of  Culsamond  are  several 
quarries  of  valuable  slate,  of  a  fine  blue  colour,  from 
which  large  quantities  are  annually  raised  ;  and  iron- 
stone is  also  found  in  the  parish,  lying  in  detached 
masses  on  or  near  the  surface.  Bog-iron  ore  has  also 
been  discovered  in  combination  with  decomposed  oak- 
wood,  about  eight  feet  below  the  surface.  A  bed  of  sand, 
of  a  coarse  kind,  is  spread  a  little  below  the  ground  on 
the  estate  of  Pulquhite,  supposed  to  be  the  debris  of 
granite  belonging  to  the  hill  of  Benochee,  and  brought 
hither  by  the  action  of  water  ;  and  on  the  same  farm, 
in  the  northern  portion,  is  a  bed  of  moss,  about  three 
feet  below  the  surface,  ill  some  parts  above  eight  feet 
deep,  and  reaching  from  north  to  south  between  thirty 
and  forty  yards,  over  which  a  soil  composed  chiefly  of 
gravel  and  stones  has  been  deposited  by  some  casualty. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4602. 

The  plantations,  which  were  commenced  about  seventy 
years  since,  though  not  very  extensive,  yet  being  dis- 
persed, and  often  appearing  in  the  form  of  clumps  and 
belts,  give  a  picturesque  appearance  to  the  district.  On 
the  hill  of  Culsamond,  250  acres  have  been  planted 
w'ithin  the  present  century ;  and  the  vicinity  of  Wil- 
liamston  House,  and  also  that  of  Newrton  House,  both 
modern  mansions,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  Urie,  have  been  much  improved  and  beautified 
by  the  tasteful  arrangement  of  their  surrounding  plan- 
tations. The  turnpike-road  from  Aberdeen  to  Inver- 
ness, by  Inverury  and  Old  Rayne,  passes  through 
the  parish.  A  fair  is  held  in  June,  for  cattle,  horses, 
sheep,  and  wool.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Garioch  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage 
of  Sir  John  Forbes  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £150,  of 
which  above  a  third  is  received  from  the  exchequer,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  ten  acres,  valued  at  £30  per 
annum.  The  church  is  in  good  condition.  The  paro- 
chial school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house,  erected  in 
1S23,  an  allowance  in  lieu  of  a  garden,  and  about  £19 
fees.  Among  the  numerous  vestiges  of  military  works, 
are  those  of  a  British  encampment  on  the  north-east 
side  of  the  hill  of  Culsamond.  There  are  also  slight 
remains  of  Druidical  temples  and  some  ancient  cairns, 
in  one  of  the  latter  of  which,  on  the  farm  of  Mill  of 
Williamston,  opened  in  1S12,  was  found  an  immense 
wooden  coffin,  of  very  rude  construction,  containing  an 
urn,  and  supposed  to  have  been  deposited  anterior  to 
the  Christian  era.  A  few  stone  axes  and  other  warlike 
instruments  have  been  found  ;  and  some  years  since  a 
gold  coin  of  James  I.  was  dug  up,  in  fine  preservation. 
A  highway  called  the  Lawrence  road,  thought   to   be 


CULT 


CULT 


some  hundreds  of  years  old,  and  to  have  been  con- 
structed for  the  avoidance  of  the  swamps  and  floods  on 
the  lower  grounds,  and  for  security  against  wild  beasts, 
crosses  the  hill  of  Culsamond,  and  was  formerly  used  by 
persons  travelling  to  St.  Lawrence  fair,  at  Old  Rayne. 

CULTER,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper  ward  of  the  county 
of  Lanark,  2|  miles  (S.  W.)  fromBiggar;  containing 
536  inhabitants,  of  whom  197  are  in  the  village.  This 
place  takes  its  name  from  its  situation  in  the  rear  of  the 
district  of  which  it  forms  a  part.  The  parish  was  origi- 
nally of  less  extent  than  at  present,  having  in  1794  been 
much  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  part  of  the  parish  of 
Kilbucho,  in  the  adjoining  count}'  of  Peebles.  It  is 
now  seven  miles  in  length,  and  rather  less  than  three  in 
average  breadth  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  river 
Clyde,  and  comprises  11,547  acres,  of  which  4000  are 
arable,  7000  meadow  and  pasture,  and  500  woodland 
and  plantations.  The  surface  is  pleasingly  undulated, 
and  towards  the  south  rises  into  hills  of  considerable 
eminence,  increasing  into  mountains,  of  which  the 
highest,  called  the  Fell,  has  an  elevation  of  more  than 
2300  feet  above  the  sea.  The  lower  part  of  the  parish 
is  diversified  with  spreading  vales  and  narrow  glens. 
The  former  are  enlivened  by  the  course  of  the  river 
Clyde,  the  banks  of  which  are  ornamented  with  hand- 
some seats  and  pleasure-grounds ;  and  of  the  latter,  the 
glen  of  Culter  Water,  which  derives  its  name  from  that 
rivulet,  is  beautifully  picturesque  and  romantic.  The 
wider  portion  of  it  is  richly  cultivated  and  wooded,  and 
the  narrower  part  gradually  diminishes  till  it  scarcely 
affords  room  for  the  passage  of  the  stream,  which,  after 
flowing  through  the  whole  length  of  the  parish,  falls 
into  the  Clyde  a  little  below  the  village.  At  a  point 
called  Wolf-Clyde,  the  river  makes  a  remarkable  curve 
towards  the  north-west,  approaching  very  nearly  to  the 
bank  of  the  Biggar  water,  which  runs  into  the  Tweed  ; 
and  in  high  floods,  uniting  with  that  stream,  a  consi- 
derable portion  of  the  Clyde  waters  is  carried  into  the 
Tweed. 

The  soil  varies  considerably,  but  is  generally  dry  and 
fertile.  The  lower  lands  consist  of  a  sandy  loam,  which, 
under  good  management,  is  very  productive ;  on  the 
hills  the  soil  is  of  much  lighter  quality,  and  on  the 
summits  mostly  a  sterile  moss  ;  towards  the  eastern 
Dart  of  the  parish,  on  the  lands  of  Kilbucho,  it  inclines 
to  clay.  The  hills  are  of  the  greywacke  formation  ;  and 
little  variety  is  found  in  the  substrata,  except  the  occa- 
sional occurrence  of  conglomerate  or  pudding-stone. 
The  system  of  agriculture  has  been  greatly  improved 
under  the  auspices  of  the  chief  landed  proprietor,  who 
has  also  greatly  promoted  the  plantation  of  timber,  the 
draining  and  inclosure  of  the  lands,  and  the  raising  of 
wheat  crops,  to  which  previously  little  attention  had 
been  paid.  The  rotation  plan  of  husbandry  is  now 
generally  prevalent,  and  green  crops  are  found  to 
answer  well ;  the  chief  produce  of  the  cornfields  is 
oats.  The  sheep  are  the  short  black-faced  breed, 
which  are  found  to  be  the  best  adapted  to  the  hilly 
pastures ;  the  cows  are  the  Ayrshire.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5231.  The  plantations 
are  principally  of  Scotch  fir ;  but,  though  it  thrives  well 
for  a  few  years,  it  soon  falls  into  decay,  and  conse- 
quently little  timber  of  any  growth  is  produced.  At 
Culterallers,  however,  are  some  acres  of  natural  trees, 
among  which  are  the  alder,  birch,  hazel,  mountain-ash, 
248 


and  willow  ;  and  in  other  parts  of  the  parish  are  re- 
markably fine  specimens  of  ancient  timber.  The  man- 
sion-houses, most  of  which  are  beautifully  situated  on 
the  banks  of  the  Clyde,  add  greatly  to  the  scenery  of 
the  parish.  The  village  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Culter  water,  along  which,  at  irregular 
distances,  a  range  of  neatly-built  houses  with  interven- 
ing trees  of  fine  growth,  extends  for  a  considerable  way. 
It  is  intersected  by  the  turnpike-road  from  Dumfries  to 
Edinburgh,  which  is  carried  over  the  stream  by  a  neat 
bridge  of  modern  erection. 

The  parish,  which  is  of  some  antiquity,  belonged  in 
the  reign  of  David  II.  to  Walter  Byset,  who  held  the 
half  barony  of  Culter  of  the  king  in  capite,  and  in  1367 
granted  the  lands,  with  the  advowson  of  the  church, 
excepting  only  the  lands  of  Nisbet,  to  William  New- 
biggin,  of  Dunsyre.  They  afterwards  came  into  the 
possession  of  William,  Earl  of  Douglas,  by  whose  de- 
scendant, James,  they  were  in  1455  forfeited  to  the 
crown.  Sir  David  Menzies,  who  afterwards  obtained 
possession  of  the  half  barony,  gave  the  lands  of  Wolf- 
Clyde  to  the  abbey  of  Melrose,  and  they  now  pay  annu- 
ally a  small  sum  to  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  as  lord  of 
that  manor.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Biggar 
and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale,  and  in  the 
patronage  of  the  families  of  Baillie  of  Lamington,  and 
Dickson  of  Kilbucho,  alternately.  The  minister's  sti- 
pend is  £217,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£30.  12.  per  annum.  The  church,  erected  in  1S10,  a 
plain  edifice  beautifully  situated,  commodious,  and  ac- 
cessible to  the  parishioners,  is  adapted  to  a  congrega- 
tion of  nearly  400  persons.  A  place  of  worship  has 
been  erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church.  The 
parochial  school  affords  education  to  all  the  children  of 
the  parish  except  those  of  the  part  formerly  in  the  parish 
of  Kilbucho,  the  original  school  of  which  is  still  re- 
tained ;  the  salary  of  the  master  of  Culter  school  is 
£34,  with  £20  fees,  and  a  dwelling-house  and  garden. 
There  was  formerly  a  preceptory  of  the  Knights'  Tem- 
plars on  the  banks  of  the  Culter  water,  a  little  below 
the  village  ;  the  site  is  called  Chapel  Hill.  Remains 
exist  of  four  circular  encampments,  which  seem  to  have 
been  formed  for  the  protection  of  the  inhabitants,  and 
the  security  of  their  cattle,  during  the  periods  of  the 
border  warfare.  There  are  also  two  circular  moats,  one 
at  Wolf  Clyde,  and  one  at  Bamflat,  which  appear  to  have 
been  raised  as  signal  stations  ;  and  along  the  vale  be- 
tween the  Clyde  and  the  Tweed,  is  a  continuous  chain 
of  similar  mounds,  most  probably  employed  for  the 
same  purpose.  About  half  a  mile  from  the  lands  of 
Nisbet,  is  an  oval  mound  in  the  midst  of  a  deep  morass  ; 
the  longer  diameter  is  about  forty  yards,  and  the  shorter 
about  thirty,  and  it  rises  above  the  surface  to  the  height 
of  nearly  three  feet.  It  is  called  the  Green  Knowe,  and 
consists  of  heaps  of  loose  stones,  compacted  together  by 
stakes  of  hard  oak,  sharpened  at  the  points,  and  driven 
into  the  ground.  Around  the  base  is  a  causeway  of 
larger  stones  ;  and  the  whole  is  surrounded  by  a  soft 
elastic  moss,  impervious  to  the  approach  of  an  enemy. 

CULTS,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cupar,  county 
of  Fife  ;  including  the  village  of  Pitlessie,  and  the 
hamlets  of  Crossgates,  Cults-Mill,  Hospital-Mill,  and 
Walton  ;  and  containing  8S9  inhabitants,  of  whom  46 
are  in  the  hamlet  of  Cults-Mill,  4  miles  (S.  S.  W.)  from 
Cupar.      This    parish,  of  which  the  name,    in  ancient 


CULT 


C  U  M  B 


documents  Quilts  or  Quilques,  is  of  Celtic  origin,  and 
supposed  to  be  descriptive  of  its  situation,  lies  nearly  in 
the  centre  of  the  county,  and  is  about  two  miles  and  a 
quarter  in  length,  and  one  mile  and  a  half  in  breadth. 
It  comprises  '2250  acres,  of  which  1900  are  under  culti- 
vation, 140  meadow  and  pasture,  115  woodland  and 
plantations,  35  garden,  and  about  60  roads,  fences,  and 
waste.  The  surface,  though  for  the  greater  part  flat,  is 
diversified  with  hills,  of  which  the  chief  in  height  is  that 
of  Walton,  near  the  south-eastern  boundary  of  the 
parish,  and  from  some  of  the  hills  are  fine  views  over 
the  rich  valley  of  Strath-Eden,  embracing  the  Lomond 
heights  in  the  distance.  The  scenery  is  in  some  places 
embellished  with  wood,  and  in  others  enlivened  with  va- 
rious streams,  of  which  the  Eden,  winding  through  the 
lands,  forms  a  boundary  between  part  of  this  parish  and 
that  of  Collessie,  and,  towards  the  west,  is  joined  by  the 
Ballomill  rivulet,  which,  though  of  considerably  less 
breadth,  has  a  plentiful  supply  of  water. 

The  soil  varies  considerably  in  quality.  In  some 
places  it  is  light  and  sandy  ;  in  others,  a  rich  black 
loam  of  about  twelve  inches  in  depth  ;  and  on  the 
higher  grounds,  a  strong  clay  which,  under  good  ma- 
nagement, produces  excellent  crops.  The  system  of 
agriculture  is  improved  ;  but  much  of  the  surface  would 
be  rendered  more  productive  if  draining  were  extensively 
practised,  and  little  progress  has  been  made  in  the  in- 
closure  of  the  lands.  The  crops  are,  grain  of  all  kinds, 
turnips,  and  potatoes.  Few  sheep  are  either  reared 
or  fed,  and  these  are  generally  of  the  Cheviot  breed  ; 
the  cattle,  to  the  improvement  of  which  much  attention 
is  paid,  are  of  the  Fif'eshire  breed.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £3208.  The  substrata  are,  yellow 
sandstone,  limestone,  and  in  some  places  coal  ;  and  the 
hills,  towards  their  summits,  are  generally  trap  or  whin- 
stone,  partly  of  amygdaloid,  and  partly  of  greenstone. 
Limestone  is  procured  in  abundance  from  quarries  on 
the  Pitlessie  hill ;  the  principal  vein  is  about  fourteen 
feet  in  thickness,  and  of  a  blue  colour,  and  above  it  is 
another  stratum,  two  feet  thick.  Both,  when  wrought, 
produce  lime  of  excellent  quality,  of  which  more  than 
25,000  bolls  are  annually  obtained,  the  greater  part 
whereof  is  shipped  at  Newburgh  for  Dundee  and  Perth, 
and  the  remainder  used  in  the  parish  and  adjacent  dis- 
trict. Coal  was  formerly  worked,  of  which  there  were 
pits  on  the  southern  declivity  of  the  Pitlessie  hill  ;  the 
seams  are  superincumbent  on  the  strata  of  limestone, 
and  one  of  them  is  about  twelve  inches  in  thickness. 
There  are  several  quarries  of  freestone  of  good  quality, 
affording  an  abundant  supply  for  building  and  other 
purposes  ;  and  boulder  limestone  is  also  procured  for 
mending  the  roads.  The  only  house  of  any  importance 
is  Crawfurd  Priory,  a  handsome  castellated  mansion, 
erected  by  Lady  Mary  Lindsay  Crawfurd  in  1813,  when 
the  ancient  family  seat  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Ceres, 
having  become  dilapidated,  was  abandoned. 

The  weaving  of  linen  affords  employment  to  about 
150  persons,  of  whom  nearly  one-half  are  females  ; 
the  number  of  webs,  which  are  140  yards  in  length, 
and  thirty  inches  wide,  may  be  reckoned  to  average 
1700  per  annum.  The  linen  chiefly  woven  is  dowlas, 
for  the  manufacturers  of  Kettle,  Leslie,  and  Newburgh, 
who  furnish  the  materials.  The  spinning  of  tow  is  also 
carried  on  at  Hospital-mill,  where  an  old  corn  and 
flax  mill  has  been  converted  to  this  purpose,  at  an  ex- 
Vol.  I. — 249 


pense  of  £4000  ;  the  machinery  is  propelled  by  a  water- 
wheel  of  fourteen-horse  power,  and  the  quantity  of  yarn 
spun  annually  is  from  160  to  180  tons,  sent  principally 
to  Dundee.  This  work  affords  employment  to  about 
fifty  persons,  of  whom  the  greater  number  are  women 
and  children.  There  are  also  mills  for  flour,  barley, 
malt,  and  oatmeal,  a  saw-mill  driven  by  water,  and 
another  by  steam.  The  high  road  from  Edinburgh  to 
Dundee  passes  through  the  parish.  An  annual  fair  is 
held  for  the  sale  of  agricultural  stock  and  implements 
of  husbandry,  on  the  second  Tuesday  in  May  (O.  S.), 
and  is  numerously  attended.  The  parish  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod  of  Fife,  and  patronage 
of  the  United  College  of  St.  Andrew's ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £162,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£11  per  annum.  The  church,  which  is  situated  about 
a  mile  from  the  village,  and  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
parish,  is  a  neat  plain  edifice,  erected  in  1?93,  and 
contains  a  handsome  monument  in  marble,  by  Chantrey, 
erected  by  Sir  David  Wilkie  to  the  memory  of  his 
parents.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  United  Associate  Synod.  The  parochial  school 
affords  education  to  about  sixty  children ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  about  £35  fees,  and  a  good 
house  and  garden.  On  the  sides  of  Walton  Hill  are 
several  ramparts,  supposed  to  have  been  a  Roman 
encampment ;  and  urns  and  other  relics  have  been  dis- 
covered on  and  near  the  spot.  Sir  David  Wilkie,  the 
eminent  painter,  was  born  in  the  manse  on  the  18th 
November,  17S5,  while  his  father,  the  Rev.  David 
Wilkie,  was  incumbent.  The  latter  was  the  author  of 
a  treatise  on  the  Theory  of  Interest  and  Annuities  ; 
the  former,  who  had  been  appointed  limner  for  Scotland 
to  George  IV.,  was  knighted  by  his  Majesty  William 
IV.,  in  1S36,  and  died  in  1841.  Dr.  Thomas  Gillespie, 
professor  of  humanity  in  the  university  of  St.  Andrew's, 
and  author  of  sermons  on  The  Seasons  contemplated  in  the 
Spirit  of  the  Gospel,  was  for  fifteen  years  incumbent  of 
the  parish. 

CUMBERNAULD,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Dumbarton;  including  the  village  of  Condorat,  and 
containing  3501  inhabitants,  of  whom  many  reside  in 
the  village  of  Cumbernauld,  10  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from 
Falkirk.  This  place  derives  its  name  from  a  Celtic 
term  signifying  a  confluence  of  streams,  in  reference 
to  the  junction  of  several  small  streams  just  below 
the  village.  It  is  of  considerable  antiquity,  though 
the  parish  was  not  erected  until  1649 :  the  wall  of 
Agricola,  called  Graham's  Dyke,  with  other  ancient 
relics,  connects  its  history  with  that  of  the  Roman 
invaders,  but  nothing  is  recorded  to  supply  us  with  any 
particulars  concerning  their  proceedings  in  these  parts. 
There  was  formerly  a  castle  here,  and  at  the  close  of 
the  13th  century,  the  castle  and  barony  belonged  to 
John  Comyn,  Earl  of  Buchan,  but  afterwards  fell  to 
the  crown  by  the  forfeiture  of  that  nobleman  :  in  the 
14th  century,  they  passed  to  the  Flemings,  of  Biggar 
and  Cumbernauld,  who  were  subsequently  created  earls 
of  Wigton,  and  rose  to  considerable  importance  in  the 
transactions  of  Scottish  history.  The  barony  formerly 
belonged  to  Stirlingshire,  but  in  the  reign  of  David 
II.,  Malcolm  Fleming,  sheriff  of  Dumbarton,  obtained 
its  annexation  to  Dumbartonshire,  and  the  disjunction 
of  several  parishes  from  Dumbarton,  and  their  annex- 
ation  to    Stirling.      This    arrangement  was  afterwards 

2  K 


C  U  M  B 


CUM  B 


disturbed  by  an  act  of  parliament,  in  1503  ;  but  the 
act  was  repealed,  and  the  settlement  effected  by  Mal- 
colm Fleming  permanently  established. 

The  parish,  situated  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
shire,  is  about  eight  miles  long,  and  from  three  to 
four  broad,  and  contains  9145  Scotch  acres.  The  sur- 
face is  diversified  by  a  succession  of  ridges  and  slopes, 
and  the  whole  sweep  being  very  considerably  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  the  climate  is  rendered  sharp  and 
cold.  The  highest  part  is  a  deep  moss  covered  with 
heath,  and  called  Fannyside-muir,  in  which  quanti- 
ties of  grouse  and  black-cock  are  found;  the  remainder 
of  the  surface  is  arable  and  wood,  among  which 
game  of  all  kinds  is  abundant,  and  in  spring  the  roe- 
buck is  frequently  seen,  and  sometimes  the  squirrel. 
The  streams  of  Luggie  and  Kelvin  enliven  the  lands, 
but  are  of  inconsiderable  dimensions ;  they  formerly 
abounded  in  good  fish,  but  now  a  few  trout  only  are  to 
be  found.  The  lakes,  which  were  once  numerous,  have 
been  drained,  and  converted  into  arable  land,  and  the 
only  remaining  one  is  the  fresh-water  loch  of  Fan- 
nyside,  which  covers  about  seventy  acres,  and  is  but  a 
few  feet  deep  ;  pike  and  perch  are  taken  in  it,  and  it 
is  visited  by  flocks  of  wild-duck  and  teal.  The  soil 
is  chiefly  a  deep  clayey  loam,  tolerably  fertile;  6168 
acres  are  arable,  2170  pasture  and  moss,  5S0  planta- 
tions and  woods,  and  the  rest  roads  and  water.  Within 
the  last  twenty  years,  many  improvements  have  taken 
place  in  husbandry,  by  draining  and  levelling,  and  by 
the  use  of  lime  and  good  dung  manure  ;  and  since  the 
introduction  of  green  crops,  a  considerable  quantity  of 
land  has  been  brought  into  corn  cultivation,  though 
previously  considered  altogether  unfit  for  the  purpose. 
The  breed  of  cows  and  horses  has  recently  been  much 
attended  to  ;  the  dairy-farms  are  of  a  very  superior 
kind,  and  their  chief  produce  is  butter,  which  is  sold 
at  Falkirk  and  Glasgow.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £15,430. 

The  subsoil  is  an  impervious  till,  much  of  which  has 
been  advantageously  drained  ;  the  rocks  are  whinstone 
and  trap,  which  mainly  compose  those  numerous  ridges 
whereby  the  surface  is  marked.  Freestone  and  lime- 
stone are  found  in  large  quantities,  and  a  quarry  of 
the  former  is  wrought  at  Netherwood,  near  the  Forth 
and  Clyde  canal,  where  also,  as  well  as  at.  Cumbernauld, 
limestone  of  excellent,  quality  is  obtained.  The  free- 
stone, which  is  chiefly  used  in  building,  produces  an- 
nually a  large  sum,  and  the  limestone  £6000.  Coal 
is  found  in  several  places,  especially  near  the  freestone 
quarry  at  the  Hirst  ;  and  on  the  farm  of  Westerwood  is 
a  mine  of  ironstone,  let  to  the  Carron  Company.  The 
mansion  of  Cumbernauld,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Fle- 
mings, is  surrounded  by  fine  plantations,  some  of  the 
trees  of  which  are  holly  of  a  large  size  and  imposing 
appearance.  Here  and  in  many  other  parts,  oak,  ash, 
lime,  chesnut,  elm,  beech,  and  plane  diversify  the 
scenery,  and  are  in  a  flourishing  condition.  The  village 
of  Cumbernauld,  which  contains  nearly  one-half  of  the 
population  of  the  parish,  was  created  a  burgh  of  barony 
in  1649;  it  has  a  fair  in  May,  at  which  there  is  a  con- 
siderable traffic  in  cattle.  About  one-fifth  of  the  popu- 
lation is  employed  in  cotton- weaving,  560  looms  being 
at  work  in  the  parish ;  but,  during  the  fluctuations 
to  which  the  trade  is  exposed,  many  of  the  hands 
obtain  support  by  labouring  in  the  coal  and  iron 
250 


mines.  There  is  a  penny-post  to  Glasgow  ;  and  the 
mail  by  Crieff,  and  coaches  to  Perth,  Edinburgh,  Alloa, 
and  Stirling  formerly  passed  daily  to  and  from  Glas- 
gow, but  that  to  Perth  is  the  only  one  now  left  on  the 
road.  The  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  railway,  also,  which 
passes  through  the  parish  south  of  the  canal,  attains 
its  summit  level  here. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  pres- 
bytery of  Glasgow  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr. 
There  is  a  manse,  built  in  1827,  with  a  glebe  of  about 
eleven  acres,  valued  at  £17.  10.  per  annum  ;  the  minis- 
ter's stipend  is  £230,  and  John  Elphinstone  Fleming, 
Esq.,  is  patron.  The  church  is  situated  in  the  village, 
in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  is  an  old,  inconvenient, 
and  uncomfortable  building ;  it  contains  650  sittings, 
but  is  much  too  small  for  the  population.  There  are 
also  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church 
and  United  Secession  ;  and  a  parochial  school  is  sup- 
ported, the  master  of  which  has  a  salary  of  £25,  with 
house  and  garden,  and  £26  fees.  The  village  has  a 
good  subscription  library,  consisting  of  1200  volumes  ; 
also  a  savings'  bank,  established  in  1815;  and  a  so- 
ciety of  masons.  The  late  Viscount  Keith  bequeathed 
£90,  the  interest  to  be  divided  among  the  poor  on 
the  1st  of  January.  The  chief  relic  of  antiquity  is 
Graham's  Dyke,  a  part  of  which  runs  through  the  parish. 
Traces  of  an  old  Roman  road  may  be  seen  in  the 
moss  of  Fannyside  ;  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Cumbernauld 
House  is  an  elevation  called  the  Towe  Hill,  where  in 
ancient  times  the  feudal  baron  held  his  court.  In  the 
formation  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde  canal,  which  runs 
through  the  bog  of  Dullatur,  many  warlike  instruments 
were  found,  with  the  bodies  of  men,  among  which  was 
a  trooper,  completely  armed,  and  sitting  upright  on 
horseback,  exactly  in  the  position  in  which  he  had 
perished.  He  is  supposed  to  have  belonged  to  Baillie's 
army,  when  that  general  fought  the  Marquess  of 
Montrose,  15th  of  August,  1745,  and  in  his  flight  to 
have  ridden  accidentally  into  the  bog. 

CUMBRAY,  GREAT,  an  island  and  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Bute,  2  miles  (W.)  from  Largs  ;  including 
the  villages  of  Millport  and  Newton,  and  containing 
1413  inhabitants.  The  name  is  derived  from  a  Gaelic 
term  signifying  a  bold  or  steep  coast  rising  abruptly 
from  the  sea,  and  this  description  corresponds  with  the 
natural  appearance  of  the  island,  which  presents  a  steep 
and  precipitous  coast  all  round.  The  island  is  supposed 
formerly  to  have  been  in  the  possession  of  the  Norwe- 
gians, concerning  whose  occupancy,  however,  no  particu- 
lars are  known.  They  are  said  to  have  been  dispossessed 
of  the  property  after  many  successive  encounters  with 
the  Scots,  by  the  decisive  battle  of  Largs,  when  they 
were  completely  routed  and  driven  from  the  coast.  A 
cathedral  once  stood  here,  which  was  dedicated  to  St. 
Columba,  but  no  remains  of  it  are  now  visible.  The 
island  was  formerly  distributed  into  a  number  of  small 
baronies,  the  owners  of  the  principal  of  which  were  the 
families  of  Hunter,  Stuart,  and  Montgomerie.  The 
barony  of  Karnes,  belonging  to  the  Hunters,  has  given 
the  name  to  one  of  the  finest  bays  in  the  island,  and  on 
this  property,  also,  once  stood  the  village  of  Karnes,  some 
vestiges  of  which  may  still  be  traced.  The  barony  of 
Ballykellet,  which  appears  to  have  been  the  most  con- 
siderable of  all,  belonged  to  the  Montgomeries,  who  pos- 
sessed the  patronage  of  the  parish,  and  part  of  whose 


CUMB 


C  U  M  I 


mansion-house  was  until  lately  standing,  having  in  it  a 
stone  with  the  family  arms  sculptured. 

The  island  is  of  very  irregular  figure,  extending  about 
three  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  from  north-east  to 
south-west,  and  about  two  miles  in  breadth  :  its  circum- 
ference is  ten  miles,  comprehending  an  area  of  5120 
acres.  It  is  situated  on  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  and  is  sepa- 
rated from  Little  Cumbray,  on  the  south,  by  a  strait 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  breadth;  from  Ayrshire,  on 
the  east,  by  Fairley  Road,  about  one  mile  and  a  half 
broad  ;  and  from  the  isle  of  Bute,  on  the  west,  by  a  part 
of  the  Frith,  which  is  about  four  miles  wide.  Numerous 
hills  rise,  with  a  gradual  ascent,  from  the  extremities  of 
the  island  to  its  centre,  and  merge  in  one  continuous 
range  called  the  Shough-ends,  which  runs  from  north 
to  south  nearly  throughout  the  whole  length  of  the 
island ;  it  attains  an  elevation  of  about  500  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  commands  in  every  direction  a  beautiful 
view.  The  shores  and  bays  abound  with  fish  of  various 
kinds,  and  oysters  are  found  in  some  parts.  A  stream 
of  inconsiderable  dimensions,  taking  its  rise  from  two 
small  lochs  which  communicate  with  each  other,  in  the 
highest  part  of  the  island,  receives  the  waters  of  several 
springs,  and  at  length  becomes  sufficiently  large  to  form 
a  mill-dam,  which  the  people  use  for  grinding  their 
corn.  The  soil  varies  iuditferent  places.  On  the  coast 
it  is  light  and  sandy,  lying  on  rock  or  clay ;  on  the 
higher  grounds  it  is  gravelly  and  thin,  tending  to  moss, 
bedded  on  rock  and  covered  with  heath  ;  in  some  of  the 
valleys  it  is  a  deep  rich  loam,  lying  on  clay,  and  pro- 
ducing good  crops.  About  3000  acres  are  arable ;  upwards 
of  1400  are  waste,  a  considerable  part  of  which,  however, 
affords  pasture  for  cattle;  30  acres  are  common,  and 
120  are  planted.  Grain  and  green  crops  of  all  kinds  are 
produced;  the  cattle  are  of  the  pure  Ayrshire  breed.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £1845. 

The  rocks  consist  of  several  varieties  of  whinstone,  of 
limestone,  and  sandstone.  The  limestone  is  not  wrought, 
on  account  of  the  expense  of  fuel ;  but  the  sandstone, 
which  is  plentiful,  is  wrought  to  a  considerable  extent, 
quarries  having  been  for  some  time  open.  There  is 
a  regular  communication  with  the  land  by  steam-boats, 
and  the  island  is  much  resorted  to  by  strangers.  The 
ecclesiastical  aifairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of 
Greenock  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  patron,  Lord 
Glasgow.  The  stipend  is  £159,  and  there  is  a  good 
manse,  with  a  glebe  of  six  acres,  valued  at  £S.  10.  per 
annum.  The  church,  which  was  built  in  1837,  to  meet 
the  exigencies  of  a  largely  augmented  population,  is  situ- 
ated on  rising  ground,  immediately  behind  the  village  of 
Millport ;  it  is  a  commodious  and  elegant  structure,  orna- 
mented with  a  handsome  tower,  and  capable  of  accom- 
modating "50  persons.  A  place  of  worship  has  been 
erected  for  Baptists  ;  likewise  a  Free  church.  There  is 
also  a  parochial  school,  where,  in  addition  to  the  usual 
branches,  Latin,  mensuration,  and  navigation  are  taught; 
the  master  has  the  legal  accommodations,  and  a  salary 
of  £30,  with  £15  from  fees.  A  parochial  library  is 
supported. 

CUMBRAY,  LITTLE,  an  island,  in  the  county  of 
Bute,  ecclesiastically  annexed  to  the  parish  of  West 
Kilbride,  in  the  county  of  Ayr,  and  containing  8  inhabit- 
ants. This  island  is  situated  in  the  Frith  of  Clyde, 
between  the  island  of  Bute  and  the  promontory  of  Port- 
incross,  from  each  of  which  it  is  distant  about  two 
251 


and  a  half  miles.  It  anciently  formed  part  of  the  do- 
mains of  the  Stuart  family,  ancestors  of  the  kings  of 
that  line,  and,  on  the  erection  of  the  principality  of 
Scotland  by  Robert  III.,  in  1404,  in  favour  of  his  son, 
was  concluded  within  its  limits.  It  was  for  many  years 
retained  as  a  royal  preserve,  and  in  1515  was  conferred 
upon  Hew,  Earl  of  Eglinton,  whose  descendants  are  its 
present  proprietors.  The  island,  which  is  composed 
entirely  of  trap-rock,  resting  on  the  sandstone  formation 
of  the  opposite  coast,  is  about  a  mile  long,  and  half  a 
mile  in  breadth,  and  has  an  elevation  of  600  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  surface  comprises  about  700  acres;  but, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  potato  gardens,  it  does  not 
appear  to  have  been  cultivated.  There  are  a  few  ash-trees 
growing  near  the  south-east  extremity,  but  it  is  otherwise 
perfectly  destitute  of  wood,  and  the  rocky  pasture  only 
affords  food  for  a  few  sheep  and  young  cattle  ;  the  island 
is,  indeed,  chiefly  a  rabbit-warren  at  present,  and  about 
500  dozens  of  rabbits  are  taken  annually  on  the  average, 
and  sent  for  the  supply  of  the  neighbouring  markets. 
Nearly  in  the  centre  is  a  circular  tower,  thirty  feet  in 
height,  once  appropriated  as  a  lighthouse,  and  still  form- 
ing a  very  conspicuous  object  from  all  parts  of  the 
channel  ;  but  it  has  long  been  neglected,  and  a  lighthouse 
has  been  built  upon  the  edge  of  a  precipice  overhanging 
the  sea,  on  the  west  side  of  the  island.  This  building, 
with  the  keeper's  house  and  garden,  romantically  con- 
trasting with  the  rugged  crags  among  which  it  is  situa- 
ted, has  a  truly  picturesque  appearance.  In  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  island  are  several  natural  caverns, 
formed  by  fissures  in  the  rock ;  the  largest,  on  the  east 
side,  is  called  the  King's  cave. 

Near  the  old  lighthouse  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
square  fort,  of  which  the  walls,  six  feet  in  thickness, 
thirty-five  feet  in  height,  and  nearly  entire,  inclose  an 
area  twenty-eight  feet  in  length  and  fifteen  feet,  wide, 
formed  into  two  apartments,  of  which  the  lower  has  a 
vaulted  stone  roof.  By  whom,  or  at  what,  time,  it  was 
erected  is  not  known  ;  but  being  in  the  possession  of  the 
Montgomerie  family  at  the  period  of  Cromwell's  invasion 
of  Scotland,  it  was  surprised  and  burnt  by  his  soldiers. 
To  the  north  of  the  castle  are  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Vey,  who  was  buried 
here,  in  a  tomb  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  chapel.  These 
remains  consist  chiefly  of  portions  of  the  walls  of  the 
chapel,  which  appears  to  have  been  a  dependency  of  the 
monastery  of  Iona ;  the  walls  are  about  three  feet  in 
thickness,  and  rudely  built,  inclosing  an  area  of  thirty 
feet  in  length,  and  fifteen  in  width.  Of  the  tomb,  which 
seems  to  have  been  comprised  within  four  walls  of  stone, 
two  square  stones  only  are  left,  one  of  which  is  broken 
into  two  pieces  ;  they  are  ornamented  with  tracery,  but 
no  inscription  of  any  kind  is  to  be  discovered.  At  Shan- 
willy  point,  on  the  north  of  the  island,  are  several  tumuli, 
some  of  which  were  opened  a  few  years  before  his  death 
by  the  late  Earl  of  Eglinton,  when  sepulchral  urns  and 
various  fragments  of  weapons  were  found. 

CUMINESTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Mon- 
dUHiTTER,  district  of  Turriff,  county  of  Aberdeen, 
6  miles  (E.  by  N.)  from  Turriff;  containing  477  inha- 
bitants. This  place  takes  its  name  from  the  late  Joseph 
Cumine,  Esq.,  who  founded  it  near  the  middle  of  the 
last  century,  and  established  in  it  a  linen  manufacture, 
which  still  exists,  and  lately  employed  about  100  hands. 
The   present    proprietor    of  Aucbry,    the    seat  of  the 

2  K2 


C  U  M  M 


CUMN 


late  Mr.  Cumine,  who  purchased  the  mansion  and  estate, 
has  actively  pursued  the  plans  partially  carried  out  by 
his  spirited  predecessor,  for  the  improvement  of  his 
property  in  the  parish,  and  the  promotion  of  the 
agricultural  interest.  A  post-office  has  been  established 
in  the  village  by  his  exertions  ;  and  he  has  projected, 
in  connexion  with  other  gentlemen,  a  new  line  of  turn- 
pike-road to  run  through  it.  A  fair  for  cattle  and 
horses,  also,  is  held  on  the  last  Thursday  in  April  or 
the  first  in  May. 

CUMMERTREES,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dum- 
fries ;  including  the  village  of  Powfoot,  and  containing 
1277  inhabitants,  of  whom  1*24  are  in  the  village  of 
Cummertrees,  4  miles  (W.)  from  Annan.  The  parish 
is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name,  anciently  written 
Curnbertres,  from  its  having  been  formerly  covered 
with  timber,  considerable  tracts  of  which  still  remain, 
besides  subterraneous  forests  of  oak,  fir,  and  birch, 
with  which  the  mosses  are  every  where  filled.  It  is 
remarkable  as  containing  the  farm  of  Bruce,  in  which 
there  is  a  field  called  Broom  Acres,  where  it  is  said 
that  Robert  Bruce,  through  the  treachery  of  a  black- 
smith, sustained  a  severe  repulse  from  the  English. 
The  most  conspicuous  family  with  which  the  ancient 
history  stands  connected,  is  that  of  Herries.  Their 
residence,  Hoddam  Castle,  which  is  situated  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  river  Annan,  is  said  to  have  been 
built  with  the  stones  of  a  more  ancient  castle  of  the 
same  name,  between  the  years  1437  and  1484,  by  John, 
Lord  Herries,  of  Herries.  The  older  castle  had  been 
inhabited,  in  the  beginning  of  the  14th  century,  by  a 
branch  of  the  family  of  Robert  Bruce,  and  destroyed 
some  time  afterwards  by  a  border  law.  The  family  of 
Herries  was  very  powerful,  and  acquired  a  large  extent 
of  country;  but  about  the  year  1627,  the  barony  of 
Hoddam  was  obtained  by  Sir  Richard  Murray,  of 
Cockpool. 

The  parish  comprehends  the  ancient  chapelry  of 
Trailtrow,  which  was  annexed  to  it  at  the  Reformation  ; 
and  is  about  seven  miles  in  extreme  length,  and  four 
in  extreme  breadth,  containing  about  10,000  acres. 
It  is  bounded  by  the  Solway  Frith  on  the  south.  A 
part  of  the  surface  is  level,  forming  an  inclined  plane 
which  rises  gently  from  the  south  towards  the  north, 
the  highest  point  being  not  more  than  200  feet  above 
the  sea ;  but  after  this  there  is  a  descent,  from  the 
Tower  of  Repentance  to  the  river  Annan,  which  is  some- 
what rapid.  The  coast  is  flat,  sandy,  and  uninter- 
esting. Salmon,  sea-trout,  flounders,  codlings,  and 
occasionally  turbot  and  soles,  are  taken  in  the  Solway, 
and  considerable  quantities  of  cockles  and  muscles 
along  the  shores  ;  in  the  Annan,  salmon,  common  trout, 
and  herling  are  plentiful.  The  soil  in  some  places  is 
sandy,  and  in  others  gravelly  ;  in  a  few  instances  deep 
rich  loam  is  met  with,  but  in  general  the  soil  is  a 
thin  wet  clay,  resting  upon  a  hard  tilly  subsoil,  and 
requiring  much  skill  to  render  it  productive.  About 
6000  acres  are  occasionally  under  tillage,  and  800  are 
moss,  of  which,  however,  300  are  capable  of  cultivation  ; 
about  1000  acres  are  under  wood,  consisting  chiefly 
of  plantations.  The  crops  are  nearly  the  same  as  in 
other  parishes  where  the  modern  improvements  in 
husbandry  have  been  introduced.  Cattle  are  reared  in 
large  numbers  ;  the  few  sheep  kept  are  generally  a  cross 
between  the  Cheviots  and  South  downs.  Many  hun- 
252 


dreds  of  acres  which  were  waste  thirty  years  ago,  are 
now  in  flourishing  plantations,  or  under  cultivation, 
and  inclosed  with  good  hedges  ;  indeed,  the  successful 
application  of  the  best  system  of  husbandry  has  entirely 
altered  the  face  of  the  parish  within  the  present  century. 
The  rocks  consist  of  limestone  and  sandstone,  the 
former  of  which,  quarried  at  Kelhead,  is  celebrated  as 
among  the  finest  in  the  country,  and  brings  an  annual 
revenue  of  above  £1000 ;  there  are  also  two  sandstone 
quarries.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£6022. 

The  most  interesting  residence  is  the  ancient  castle, 
remarkable  for  its  strength  and  the  thickness  of  its 
walls,  and  which  has  received  several  additions  by  its 
respective  proprietors,  of  whom  the  late  General  Sharpe 
built  a  large  wing,  in  keeping  with  the  other  parts  of 
the  edifice.  The  parish  also  contains  the  modern  man- 
sion of  Kinmount  House,  built  by  the  Marquess  of 
Queensberry,  at  the  cost  of  £40,000.  The  turnpike- 
road  from  Portpatrick  to  Carlisle  intersects  the  parish. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery 
of  Annan  and  synod  of  Dumfries  ;  patron,  the  Crown. 
There  is  a  manse,  with  a  glebe  of  the  annual  value  of 
£18  ;  and  the  minister's  stipend,  including  a  government 
grant  of  £37,  is  £158.  The  church,  which  was  founded 
by  Robert  Bruce,  has  frequently  been  rebuilt  and  en- 
larged, the  last  time  about  fifty-five  years  since,  and 
contains  450  sittings.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  in 
which,  besides  the  ordinary  branches,  the  classics,  geo- 
graphy, and  navigation  are  taught ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £30,  with  £25  fees,  and  the  allowance  of 
house  and  garden.  Among  the  relics  of  antiquity  is 
the  Tower  of  Repentance,  said  to  have  been  built  in 
the  15th  century,  by  Lord  Herries,  who,  having  used 
the  stones  of  an  old  chapel  in  building  Hoddam  Castle, 
of  which  he  afterwards  repented,  erected  this  tower,  to 
pacify  his  conscience,  and  to  make  his  peace  with  the 
Bishop  of  Glasgow,  diocesan  of  the  chapel.  It  is  twenty- 
five  feet  high,  and  stands  on  an  eminence,  which  is 
seen  at  a  distance  of  thirty  miles  on  all  sides. 

CUMMINGSTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Duf- 
fus,  county  of  Elgin  ;  containing  155  inhabitants.  This 
place  is  situated  on  the  south  coast  of  the  Moray  Frith, 
a  short  distance  from  Burgh-Head,  which  is  the  post- 
town.  It  is  a  small  and  neglected  village,  chiefly  inha- 
bited by  seamen,  and  the  families  of  persons  dependent 
on  the  fisheries  of  the  district. 

CUMNOCK,  NEW,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of 
Kyle,  county  of  Ayr,  6  miles  (S.  E.  by  S.)  from  Old 
Cumnock;  containing,  with  the  villages  of  Castle,  Path- 
head,  Mansfield,  and  Afton-Bridgend,  2382  inhabitants. 
This  parish,  which  was  separated  from  that  of  Cumnock 
in  the  year  1650,  is  situated  at  the  south-east  extremity 
of  the  county.  It  is  about  twelve  miles  in  length,  from 
east  to  west,  and  nine  in  breadth,  from  north  to  south, 
and  comprises  about  75,000  acres,  of  which  15,000 
are  arable,  300  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  re- 
mainder, of  which  about  3000  might  be  reclaimed  and 
brought  into  cultivation,  is  a  very  elevated  tract  of  moss. 
The  surface  is  in  general  hilly,  and  towards  the  south 
mountainous,  but  is  varied  with  the  two  fine  valleys  of 
the  Nith  and  Afton,  of  which  the  former  extends 
through  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the  parish,  having 
a  mean  elevation  of  about  500  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  the  latter,  which  is  about  fifty  feet  higher,  intersects 


CUMN 


C  U  M  N 


the  parish  from  north  to  south.  The  highest  of  the 
mountains,  called  Blackcraig,  has  an  elevation  of  1600 
feet  ;  the  Knipe,  a  little  to  the  south,  has  an  elevation 
of  1260  feet,  and  the  Corsancone  is  8/0  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  river  Nith.  From  all  these  heights  exten- 
sive views  are  obtained  of  the  surrounding  districts,  and 
that  from  the  Corsancone  is  singularly  rich  and  beau- 
tiful. The  river  Nith  rises  in  the  south-west  of  the 
parish,  and,  after  a  course  of  about  twelve  miles,  flows 
by  the  base  of  Corsancone  Hill,  into  the  valley  of 
Nithsdale  in  the  parish  of  Kirkconnell.  The  river  Afton 
rises  near  the  southern  boundary  of  the  parish,  and, 
after  a  course  of  about  eight  miles,  falls  into  the  Nith 
near  the  village.  The  surface  is  further  diversified  by 
three  lakes,  little  more  than  half  a  mile  in  circum- 
ference ;  they  are  of  no  great  depth,  but  abound  with 
perch  and  pike,  and  are  frequented  by  varieties  of 
aquatic  fowl. 

The  soil  is  in  some  parts  of  a  light  gravelly  quality, 
and  in  others  a  tenacious  clay ;  but,  by  judicious 
management  and  a  liberal  use  of  lime,  it  has  been 
much  improved,  and  a  tolerable  quantity  of  unproduc- 
tive land  has  been  brought  into  profitable  cultivation. 
The  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  tur- 
nips. Surface-draining  is  rapidly  growing  into  practice, 
and  all  the  more  recent  improvements  in  husbandry, 
and  in  implements  of  agriculture,  have  been  adopted. 
Considerable  care  is  bestowed  on  the  management  of 
live  stock  ;  about  3500  cows  are  pastured  on  the  vari- 
ous farms,  nearly  half  of  which  number  are  milch- 
cows,  and  the  value  of  cheese  and  butter  annually  pro- 
duced is  estimated  at  above  £*000.  More  than  20,000 
sheep  are  fed  on  the  mountain  pastures.  There  is 
very  little  wood  in  the  parish  ;  the  plantations  are  chiefly 
larch  and  spruce-fir,  for  which  the  soil  appears  to 
be  very  favourable,  and  some  larches  planted  on  the 
banks  of  the  Afton  have  attained  a  very  stately  growth. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £14,117. 
The  substrata  are,  carboniferous  limestone,  coal,  sand- 
stone, and  ironstone,  and  the  hills  of  transition  rock 
and  greywacke.  The  limestone  is  found  in  abun- 
dance in  many  parts,  occurring  in  beds  of  great  thick- 
ness ;  it  is  of  excellent  quality,  and  the  lime  is  much 
used  for  cement,  from  its  property  of  acquiring  hard- 
ness under  water.  There  are  several  kilns  on  improved 
principles,  for  burning  the  limestone,  and  the  produce 
annually  is  averaged  at  200,000  bushels.  The  coal 
is  likewise  very  abundant,  and  of  good  quality;  the 
quantity  annually  raised  is  about  10,000  tons.  In 
the  coalfield  at  Craigman,  plumbago  is  found  in  irre- 
gular masses,  imbedded  in  basalt,  and  has  been  wrought 
for  a  long  time.  The  sandstone  is  generally  of  a  yel- 
lowish-white tint,  but  of  coarse  texture,  and  contains 
various  fossil  impressions ;  the  ironstone  occurs  in  de- 
tached masses  and  veins  in  several  parts  of  the  coal 
formation,  but  has  not  yet  been  worked. 

The  villages  are  chiefly  inhabited  by  persons  employed 
in  agriculture  and  in  the  mines  and  quarries ;  there  is 
a  post-office  under  that  of  Old  Cumnock,  and  a  library 
which  has  a  collection  of  more  than  1040  volumes  is 
supported  by  subscription.  A  fair  is  held  on  the  Thurs- 
day before  Whitsunday,  for  cattle,  and  considerable 
business  is  transacted.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Ayr  and  Glasgow,  and  in  the 
patronage  of  the  Marquess  of  Bute.  The  minister's 
253 


stipend  is  about  £212,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued 
at  £24  per  annum.  The  church,  which  is  situated 
between  the  villages  of  New  Cumnock  and  Afton- 
Bridgend,  is  an  elegant  and  substantial  structure  iu 
the  later  English  style,  erected  in  1834,  by  the  heritors, 
and  is  adapted  for  1000  persons.  There  are  places 
of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church  and 
Reformed  Presbyterian  Synod.  The  parochial  school 
affords  education  to  about  100  scholars ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £50  fees,  and  a  house  and 
garden.  On  the  summit  of  a  knoll  are  some  traces 
of  the  ancient  castle  of  Blackbog,  of  which  all  the 
masonry  has  been  removed,  to  furnish  materials  for 
building,  but  of  which  the  fosse  may  be  still  distinctly 
seen.  This  castle  was  at  one  time  the  residence  of  the 
Dunbars  of  Mochrum,  and  was  frequently  visited  by 
Sir  William  Wallace.  On  the  lands  of  Sir  John  Cath- 
cart  are  also  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  baronial  castle, 
near  the  source  of  the  river  Nith.  Upon  the  farm 
of  Whitehill,  an  earthen  jar  was  dug  up  a  few  years 
since,  containing  a  great  number  of  small  silver  coins 
of  Edward  I.  of  England  and  Alexander  of  Scotland  ; 
they  were  all  in  excellent  preservation,  and  about  the 
size  of  a  groat.  On  the  farm  of  Polquhaise,  a  tumulus 
was  lately  removed,  in  which  was  found  a  sarcophagus 
of  large  stones,  containing  fragments  of  human  bones 
and  a  small  quantity  of  black  earth. 

CUMNOCK,  OLD,  a  manufacturing  town  and  pa- 
rish, in  the  district  of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr,  10|  miles 
(S.  W.)  from  Muirkirk,  and  61  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from  Edin- 
burgh ;  containing  2836  inhabitants,  of  whom  two-fifths 
are  in  the  town.  This  place  derives  its  name  from  its 
situation  in  the  bosom  of  a  hill,  and  its  adjunct  by  way 
of  distinction  from  that  part  of  it  which,  more  than  a 
century  since,  was  separated  from  it,  and  erected  into  a 
separate  parish.  The  town  appears  to  owe  its  origin  to 
a  charter  granted  to  Sir  Thomas  Campbell,  prebendary 
of  Cumnock,  by  James  IV.,  making  the  church  lands  a 
free  burgh  of  barony,  and  empowering  him  and  his  suc- 
cessors to  let  the  glebe,  in  burgage  tenure,  for  building. 
The  barony,  after  passing  through  several  hands,  came 
ultimately,  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II.,  into  the  posses- 
sion of  the  Earl  of  Dumfries,  and  is  now  the  property 
of  the  Marquess  of  Bute.  The  town  is  beautifully 
situated  in  a  deep  recess,  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers 
Glasnock  and  Lugar,  and  consists  chiefly  of  three  streets, 
and  a  spacious  quadrangular  area  now  the  market-place, 
the  sides  of  which  form  ranges  of  good  houses,  and  in 
the  centre  of  which  is  the  church.  The  houses  are 
regularly  built,  with  the  exception  of  those  in  some 
narrow  lanes,  which  are  of  inferior  order.  The  whole 
has  an  air  of  cheerful  neatness ;  and,  combined  with 
the  interesting  banks  of  the  Lugar,  and  the  rich  wood- 
lands immediately  surrounding,  it  presents  a  pleasing 
appearance.  Gas-works  have  been  recently  constructed 
for  lighting  the  town  ;  and  there  are  two  public  libraries 
supported  by  subscription,  each  of  which  has  an  exten- 
sive and  well-selected  number  of  volumes.  A  post-office 
has  also  been  established. 

The  manufacture  of  wooden  snuff-boxes  resembling 
those  originally  made  at  Laurencekirk,  is  extensively 
carried  on  here,  and  has  been  brought  to  a  state  of  great 
perfection.  These  boxes  are  made  from  the  wood  of  the 
plane-tree  as  being  closest  in  its  texture  ;  and  at  the 
original  prices  paid  for  them,  a  solid  foot  of  wood  worth 


C  U  MN 


CU  P  A 


three  shillings,  could  be  manufactured  into  boxes  that 
would  sell  for  £100.  From  the  great  reduction  in  the 
price  since  the  extension  of  the  manufacture,  however, 
they  are  sold  for  less  than  a  tenth  part  of  the  original 
value;  and  the  painting  of  the  boxes  in  devices  has 
been  nearly  superseded  by  the  introduction  of  chequering, 
which  is  performed  in  great  variety  by  machinery,  pro- 
ducing brilliancy  of  colour  and  elegance  of  pattern.  The 
number  of  persons  employed  in  this  manufacture  is  about 
fifty.  Weaving  is  extensively  carried  on  for  the  manu- 
facturers of  Glasgow  and  Paisley,  and  more  than  120 
looms  are  in  constant  operation ;  a  considerable  number 
of  females,  also,  are  employed  in  working  and  embroider- 
ing muslins,  which  are  much  admired.  There  is  a  large 
manufactory  for  threshing-mills  and  cheese-presses,  of 
which  former  some  are  sent  to  Ireland  ;  also  a  pottery 
for  brown  earthenware,  for  which  purpose  clay  of  good 
quality  is  found  in  the  parish.  Fairs  are  held  on  the 
first  and  sixth  Thursdays  after  Candlemas,  the  Wednes- 
day after  the  last  Tuesday  in  May  and  first  Tuesday  in 
July,  and  the  Wednesday  after  the  third  Tuesday  in 
October  (O.  S.)  A  baron-bailie  is  appointed  to  super- 
intend the  police  of  the  town,  by  the  Marquess  of 
Bute. 

The  parish  is  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  two 
in  average  breadth,  and  comprises  16,400  acres,  of 
which  about  630  are  woodland  and  plantations,  2500 
moorland  pasture,  and  the  remainder  arable.  The  sur- 
face is  pleasingly  undulated,  rising  in  some  parts  into 
hills  of  gentle  elevation  ;  and  along  the  banks  of  the 
Lugar  are  fine  tracts  of  level  ground.  The  whole  of  the 
lands  have  an  elevation  of  some  hundred  feet  above  the 
sea,  but  they  are  finely  sheltered  by  the  still  higher 
lands  of  the  district  adjoining.  The  river  Lugar,  which 
has  its  source  in  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish,  is 
formed  by  the  union  of  the  streams  of  Glenmore  and 
Bella,  and,  after  forming  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
parish,  flows  with  a  westerly  course  into  the  river  Ayr. 
The  scenery  near  it  is  boldly  varied ;  in  some  parts  the 
banks  are  richly  wooded,  and  in  others  the  stream  runs 
between  perpendicular  ramparts  of  barren  rock  and 
projecting  crags.  The  river  Glasnock  issues  from  a 
lake  on  the  southern  confines  of  the  parish,  and,  after 
flowing  through  the  town,  falls  into  the  Lugar.  The 
lake  abounds  with  trout,  pike,  and  eels  ;  trout  are  found 
also  in  the  Lugar,  and  salmon  were  formerly  frequently 
taken  in  its  waters,  but,  since  the  construction  of  a  dam 
on  the  river  Ayr,  none  have  ascended  so  high.  The 
soil  is  chiefly  clayey,  intermixed  with  portions  of  a 
light  and  sandy  quality,  and  occasionally  a  rich  loam. 
The  chief  crops  are  oats,  with  a  little  wheat,  barley,  and 
bear,  potatoes,  peas,  beans,  and  turnips  ;  the  system  of 
agriculture  is  in  an  advanced  state.  A  great,  degree  of 
attention  is  paid  to  the  management  of  the  dairies,  and 
considerable  quantities  of  cheese  are  made,  and  sent  to 
the  neighbouring  markets,  where  it  is  much  esteemed. 
About  1000  milch-cows,  of  the  Ayrshire  breed,  are  kept 
on  the  several  farms  ;  and  the  number  of  sheep,  chiefly 
of  the  black-faced  kind,  averages  about  1200.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £9724. 

The  substrata  are,  limestone,  coal,  and  freestone. 
The  limestone  is  of  very  superior  quality  ;  and  the  lime, 
which  is  distinguished  by  the  appellation  of  Benston 
lime,  is  in  great  demand  for  cement,  and,  from  its  pro- 
perty of  acquiring  hardness  when  under  water,  is  much 
254 


used  in  the  erection  of  bridges.  The  freestone  on  the 
banks  of  the  Lugar  has  a  light  blue  tint,  and  is  sus- 
ceptible of  a  very  high  polish  ;  and  a  white  freestone  is 
also  found,  which  is  in  repute  for  millstones,  and  sent 
in  great  quantities  for  exportation.  The  coal  is  alter- 
nated with  strata  of  trap,  but  is  on  the  whole  of  good 
quality.  The  woods  consist  of  oak,  ash,  elm,  beech, 
plane,  lime,  chesnut,  and  birch  ;  and  the  plantations,  of 
silver,  spruce,  and  Scotch  firs,  poplar,  mountain-ash, 
holly,  and  evergreens  of  almost  every  variety.  Many 
of  the  trees  are  of  stately  growth,  and  all  are  in  a 
flourishing  condition.  Dumfries  House,  the  seat  of  the 
Marquess  of  Bute,  is  a  very  spacious  and  handsome 
mansion,  built  of  the  blue  freestone  found  in  the  parish, 
and  containing  stately  apartments  ;  the  walls  of  the 
drawing-room  are  hung  with  some  fine  old  tapestry, 
presented  to  one  of  the  earls  of  Dumfries  by  Louis  XIV. 
of  France.  The  house  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
bank  of  the  Lugar,  which  flows  through  the  pleasure- 
grounds,  and  over  which  an  elegant  bridge  has  been 
erected  near  the  mansion.  Glasnock  House,  also  situ- 
ated on  the  bank  of  that  stream,  is  an  elegant  mansion 
of  recent  erection,  and  is  built  with  the  white  freestone 
found  near  the  Lugar  :  Logan  and  Garrallan  are  like- 
wise good  houses.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Ayr  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patron- 
age of  the  Marquess  of  Bute.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£218,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per 
annum.  The  church,  erected  in  1754,  is  adapted  for 
900  persons,  but  is  much  too  small  for  the  population  : 
the  cemetery  has  been  removed  to  a  rising  ground  called 
the  Bar  Hill,  east  of  the  town.  There  are  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church  and  United 
Secession.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  to 
about  130  scholars  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  £15  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden,  and  he  also  re- 
ceives one-half  of  the  interest  of  a  bequest  of  £1000 
by  Mr.  Duncan,  for  the  gratuitous  instruction  of 
twelve  children.  The  other  half  of  the  interest  is 
distributed  among  poor  persons  not  on  the  parish  list. 
There  is  a  savings'  bank  with  a  fund  of  about  £1000  ; 
and  three  friendly  societies  are  supported.  Within  the 
grounds  of  Dumfries  House  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
castle  of  Terringzean,  anciently  the  residence  of  the 
Loudon  family  ;  and  in  the  south  side  of  the  parish  are 
some  slight  ruins  of  Boreland  Castle. 

CUNNINGSBURGH,  Shetland. — See  Sandwich. 

CUPAR,  a  burgh,  mar- 
ket-town, and  parish,  in  the 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of 
I  Fife  ;  including  the  villages 
of  Gladney  and  Springfield, 
and  containing  6758  inha- 
bitants, of  whom  3567  are 
within  the  burgh,  9  miles 
(W.)  from  St.  Andrew's,  and 
30  (N.  by  E.)  from  Edin- 
burgh. This  place  is  of  con- 
siderable antiquity,  and  was 
noted  at  an  early  period  for 
the  strength  of  its  castle,  erected  at  the  extremity  of  a 
high  mound  extending  along  the  bank  of  the  Ladyburn 
rivulet.  During  their  invasion  of  Scotland  in  the  reign 
of  Edward  Baliol,  this  castle  was  taken  by  the  English, 
who  retained  possession  of  it  till,  having  exhausted  their 


Seal  and  Arms. 


C  U  P  A 


CUPA 


provisions,  and  being  unable  to  procure  supplies,  they 
were  compelled  to  abandon  it,  and  to  return  to  their 
own  country.  There  are  no  remains  of  the  castle,  but 
the  site  of  it  is  still  called  Castle  Hill.  Under  this  hill 
was  a  Dominican  convent,  of  which  the  founder  is  not 
known,  and  which,  after  subsisting  for  a  long  time  as  a 
cell  to  the  monastery  of  that  order  on  the  island  of 
May,  was  granted  to  the  abbey  of  St.  Andrew's.  No 
vestiges  of  the  building  remain,  and  the  site  is  now 
occupied  by  an  episcopal  chapel.  Few  events  of  histo- 
rical importance  are  recorded  in  connexion  with  the 
place  :  the  town  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh  by 
David  II.,  in  1363,  and  in  the  Magna  Britannia  is  desig- 
nated by  Camden  the  Burgas  Insignia,  which  character 
it  still  retains  as  the  county  town. 

The  town  is  situated  on  the  high  road  from  Edin- 
burgh, through  Fife,  to  Dundee,  and  at  the  confluence 
of  the  rivers  Eden  and  Ladyburn,  over  the  former  of 
which  are  three  handsome  bridges,  facilitating  the  in- 
tercourse between  the  north  and  south  portions.  From 
its  situation,  it  is  the  great  thoroughfare  between  the 
ferries  of  the  Forth  and  the  Tay,  and  consequently,  in  ad- 
dition to  its  trade  and  well-frequented  markets,  derives 
much  traffic  from  the  frequent  influx  of  strangers.  It 
is  well  built,  and  consists  of  several  principal  streets,  of 
which  some  are  of  recent  formation,  originating  in  the 
modern  improvements  of  the  town,  and  of  several  smaller 
streets ;  they  are  cleansed,  paved,  and  watched  from  the 
common  funds  of  the  corporation,  and  lighted  with  gas 
by  assessment  of  the  inhabitants.  It  has  been  con- 
siderably enlarged  by  the  addition  of  the  suburbs  of 
Brae-Heads,  Newtown,  and  Lebanon  ;  and  the  whole 
has  a  cheerful  and  very  respectable  appearance.  A 
public  library  has  long  been  established,  and  is  sup- 
ported by  subscription ;  it  contains  more  than  6000 
well-chosen  volumes,  among  which  are  many  scarce  and 
valuable  books  selected  by  Dr.  Gray,  who  bequeathed 
his  library  to  the  subscribers.  There  is  also  a  pub- 
lic reading-room,  well  supplied  with  periodicals.  A 
pack  of  fox-hounds  for  the  Fifeshire  hunt  is  kept  here, 
as  the  chief  place  of  the  meeting  of  its  members;  the 
environs  are  pleasant,  and  afford  much  interest  to  the 
sportsman.  The  principal  manufacture  is  that  of  linen, 
which  gives  employment  to  about  900  persons  in  the 
town  and  parish,  who  work  with  hand-looms  at  their 
own  dwellings.  The  linen  made  is  of  various  qualities, 
and  is  mostly  exported  to  the  East  and  West  Indies,  to 
the  continent,  and  to  America.  Connected  with  this 
manufacture  are  three  mills  in  the  parish,  two  of  which 
are  for  spinning  flax,  and  one  for  thread.  Of  the  former, 
one  is  set  in  motion  by  water,  and  the  other  partly  by 
water  and  partly  by  steam,  and  the  third  entirely  by 
steam  ;  they  employ  in  the  aggregate  nearly  240  per- 
sons. There  are  two  mills  for  grinding  oatmeal  and 
barley,  and  two  flour-mills,  all  of  which  were  held  under 
the  corporation  until  recently,  when  the  feu  duty  was 
sold.  The  manufacture  of  snuff  was  formerly  carried 
on  to  a  considerable  extent,  for  which  purpose  a  mill 
was  erected  producing  60,000  pounds  annually ;  and 
from  the  increasing  demand  for  that  article  at  one 
time,  it  was  found  requisite  to  add  power  to  the  mill 
by  the  erection  of  a  steam-engine.  There  are  also  a 
fulling-mill  and  two  tanneries  in  constant  use,  to  the 
latter  of  which  has  been  added  a  manufacture  of  glue  ; 
three  public  breweries  have  been  established,  and  there 
255 


is  an  extensive  manufactory  of  coarse  earthenware,  for 
which  the  clay  found  in  the  parish  is  well  adapted,  and 
also  for  bricks  and  tiles,  of  which  great  numbers  are 
made.  The  market  is  on  Thursday,  and  is  largely  sup- 
plied with  samples  of  corn,  and  numerously  attended 
by  dealers  from  the  neighbouring  districts  ;  fairs  are 
also  held,  for  the  sale  of  live  stock,  agricultural  imple- 
ments, and  various  other  articles. 

The  inhabitants  received  their  first  charter  of  incor- 
poration from  David  II.  It  bestowed  many  privileges, 
which  were  extended  by  Robert  II.,  who  also  granted 
the  burgesses  considerable  property  in  lands  ;  and  all 
these  gifts  were  confirmed  by  subsequent  charters  down 
to  the  reign  of  James  VI.,  who  conferred  upon  the  bur- 
gesses additional  immunities,  and  the  lands  of  the  burgh 
at  a  fee-farm  rent,  by  charter  dated  at  Edinburgh  in 
1595.  By  these  charters  the  government  was  vested  in  a 
provost,  three  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  treasurer,  and  a 
council  of  thirteen,  a  convener,  and  seven  deacons  of 
trades,  assisted  by  a  town-clerk,  and  other  officers ; 
but  the  town  council,  composed  of  twenty-six  members, 
is  now  elected  in  strict  accordance  with  the  provi- 
sions of  the  Municipal  act  of  1833.  The  provost 
and  bailies,  and  all  other  officers,  are  chosen  by  the 
council ;  the  town-clerk  alone  holds  office  for  life. 
There  are  eight  guilds  of  trade,  the  hammermen,  wrights, 
weavers,  tailors,  shoemakers,  waulkers,  bakers,  and 
butchers,  who  hold  their  exclusive  privileges  under  a 
modifying  charter  of  Queen  Anne ;  each  of  these  guilds 
elects  its  own  deacon,  and  the  deacons  make  one  of 
their  number  convener,  to  preside  over  all  the  guilds. 
The  freedom  is  inherited  by  patrimony,  by  marriage 
with  a  freeman's  daughter,  by  apprenticeship,  or  by 
purchase,  the  amount  of  which  varies  in  the  different 
guilds  from  £20  to  £50.  The  magistrates  hold  burgh 
courts  for  the  determination  of  pleas  to  any  amount, 
but  the  sheriff's  courts  for  small  debts  have  nearly 
superseded  the  practice,  and  their  criminal  jurisdiction, 
also,  though  by  charter  extending  to  all  offences  not 
capital,  is  by  custom  limited  to  misdemeanours  and 
cases  of  petty  assaults,  all  graver  offences  being  referred 
to  the  county  magistrates.  By  the  act  of  the  2nd  and 
3rd  of  William  IV.,  the  burgh  unites  with  those  of  St. 
Andrew's,  Crail,  the  two  Anstruthers,  Kilrenny,  and 
Pittenweem,  in  returning  a  member  to  the  imperial  par- 
liament. The  right  of  election  is  vested  in  the  house- 
holders of  the  annual  value  of  £10  and  upwards,  resi- 
dent within  the  limits  of  the  parliamentary  boundary, 
which  is  more  extensive  than  the  municipal :  St.  Andrew's 
is  the  returning  burgh.  The  assizes  for  the  county, 
and  the  election  of  members  for  the  county,  are  held 
here.  The  town-hall  and  county-hall  are  both  neat  and 
substantial  buildings,  well  adapted  to  their  respective 
uses,  but  not  distinguished  by  architectural  elegance. 
The  latter  is  very  spacious,  and  contains  the  requisite 
court-rooms  for  the  sheriff  and  justices,  a  large  room 
for  holding  county  meetings,  and  also  an  office  for  keep- 
ing the  public  records  ;  in  the  hall  are,  a  portrait  of  the 
late  General  John,  Earl  of  Hopetoun,  finely  painted  by 
Raeburn,  and  one  of  Thomas,  Earl  of  Kellie,  lord  lieute- 
nant of  the  county,  by  Wilkie.  The  old  town  and  county 
gaol,  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  Eden, 
was  badly  arranged,  and  has  been  superseded  by  a  large 
county  prison  built  to  the  north-east  of  the  town,  under 
the  Prison  act  of  the  year  1839. 


CU  P  A 


C  U  P  A 


In  1618,  the  parish  of  Cupar  was  augmented  by  the 
union  of  that  of  Tarvit  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Eden. 
At  present  it  extends  five  miles  in  length,  and  nearly 
the  same  in  breadth ;  it  comprises  5545  acres,  all  of 
which,  with  the  exception  of  a  moderate  proportion  of 
woodland  and  pasture,  are  arable  land  in  the  highest 
state  of  cultivation.  The  surface  is  in  some  parts  gently 
undulating,  in  others  rising  into  hills  of  moderate  eleva- 
tion, and  near  the  banks  of  the  rivers  by  which  it  is 
intersected,  forming  extended  plains ;  the  scenery  is 
enriched  with  woods  of  natural  growth  and  thriving 
plantations.  The  river  Eden,  which  rises  in  West 
Lomond,  about  fifteen  miles  distant,  flows  through  the 
parish  from  west  to  east,  in  the  centre  of  a  broad  and 
fertile  vale ;  and  the  Ladyburn,  which  intersects  the 
parish  from  north-west  to  south-east,  flows  into  the 
Eden  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  town.  The  soil  is 
various,  in  some  parts  a  light  sand,  in  others  a  stiff  clay, 
and  in  the  valleys  rich  and  fertile ;  but  even  the  poorer 
soils  are  rendered  abundantly  productive  by  diligent 
cultivation  and  a  liberal  use  of  manure,  which  is  plenti- 
ful. The  system  of  husbandry  is  in  the  most  improved 
state  ;  the  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  of 
which  great  quantities  are  grown  for  the  London  mar- 
ket, and  turnips,  with  the  usual  green  crops.  Great 
attention  is  also  paid  to  the  rearing  of  live  stock.  The 
oxen  are  mostly  of  the  old  Fifeshire  breed,  and,  in 
the  great  cattle-shows,  have  generally  obtained  prizes 
awarded  by  the  agricultural  societies  ;  some  of  the  Tees- 
water  breed  have  been  introduced,  but  they  are  not 
generally  approved.  The  substratum  of  the  soil  is 
various.  White  sandstone  is  prevalent  along  the  banks 
of  the  Eden;  on  those  of  the  Ladyburn,  a  conglomerate 
sandstone  is  found,  in  which  are  imbedded  quartz  and 
flint;  and  at  a  short  distance  from  the  confluence  of 
those  streams,  is  an  extensive  mound  consisting  of 
gravel.  Greenstone,  trap-rock,  and  clinkstone  are  like- 
wise found,  above  the  gravel  and  sandstone  along  the 
banks  of  the  Eden,  and  are  quarried,  together  with  the 
white  sandstone,  for  road-making  and  for  building.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £18,715.  The 
ancient  mansion  of  Carslogie,  for  many  ages  the  family 
seat  of  the  Clephanes,  was  erected  about  400  years  since, 
and  is,  with  the  grounds,  still  kept  up  ;  Wemyss  Hall 
was  built  about  the  commencement  of  the  last  century, 
and  has  been  recently  enlarged.  Kilmaron  is  a  modern 
mansion  in  the  castellated  style, aftera  design  by  Gillespie. 
Tarvit,  Springfield,  Dalyell,  Hilton,  Carnie  Lodge,  Pit- 
blado,  Preston  Hall,  Middlefield,  Balas,  Ferrybank,  Bell- 
field,  Blalowne,  and  Westfield,  are  also  within  the  parish, 
and  are  neat  residences,  pleasantly  situated. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod  of 
Fife,  and  patronage  of  the  Crown.  There  are  two  bene- 
fices ;  the  minister  of  the  first  charge  has  a  stipend  of 
£259,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £21  per 
annum  ;  the  minister  of  the  second  charge  has  the  same 
amount,  but  neither  manse  nor  glebe.  The  church  was 
erected  in  1785,  and  has  been  altered  and  enlarged  from 
time  to  time  ;  and  another  church,  called  St.  Michael's, 
has  lately  been  built,  at  an  expense  of  about  £1800, 
partly  raised  by  transferable  shares,  which  entitle  each 
subscriber  to  the  choice  of  a  seat.  There  is  an  episcopal 
chapel,  a  very  handsome  building  ;  also  places  of  worship 
for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  the  Relief  Connexion, 
Old  Light  Burghers,  Baptists,  and  Glasites.  The 
256 


grammar  and  English  schools,  formerly  supported  by 
the  burgh,  have  been  discontinued,  and  an  academy,  for 
which  an  appropriate  building  has  been  erected  on  the 
Castle  Hill,  has  been  substituted  in  their  place,  the  pa- 
tronage and  management  being  vested  in  the  trustees 
of  the  late  eminent  Dr.  Andrew  Bell,  of  Madras,  who 
bequeathed  some  property  called  Eggmore,  in  Dum- 
friesshire, and  between  £400  and  £500  per  annum, 
for  the  purposes  of  education  in  the  town.  The  late 
Dr.  Gray,  of  Middlesex,  bequeathed  £500  for  the  esta- 
blishment of  a  female  school  here,  the  management  of 
which  is  vested  in  the  provost,  clergy,  and  schoolmaster 
of  Cupar.  An  almshouse  for  ten  or  twelve  poor  per- 
sons is  under  the  management  of  the  Kirk  Session  ;  it  is 
of  very  ancient  date,  and  the  origin  of  its  foundation  is 
not  distinctly  known.  There  is  also  an  asylum  for 
females  above  fifty  years  of  age,  recently  erected  by  a 
legacy  of  £3000  bequeathed  by  David  Knox,  Esq.,  of  Lon- 
don, for  its  foundation  and  endowment.  The  poor  like- 
wise have  the  interest  of  £450  by  Dr.  Gray  for  their 
benefit.  On  the  bank  of  the  Eden,  on  the  Tarvit  side 
of  that  river,  is  a  small  conical  eminence,  anciently  the 
site  of  the  church  of  St.  Michael  of  that  parish,  which 
had  long  ceased  to  exist  previously  to  the  union  of  Cupar 
and  Tarvit  ;  and  in  making  some  improvements  in  the 
road  near  the  spot,  many  of  the  graves  were  thrown  open, 
and  the  remains  of  the  dead  exposed  to  view.  Upon  the 
summit  of  a  hill  near  Wemyss  Hall,  are  the  remains  of 
the  cross  of  Cupar,  which,  on  its  removal  from  its  an- 
cient site  in  the  town,  in  order  to  the  formation  of  a  new 
street,  was  set  up  in  its  present  situation  by  the  late 
Col.  Wemyss.  It  consists  of  a  circular  shaft,  placed  on  a 
massive  pedestal  hewn  from  the  rock  on  which  it  stands  ; 
and  above  the  capital  are  placed  the  ancient  arms  of  the 
town. 

CUPAR-ANGUS,  or  Coupar-  Angus,  a  market-town 
and  parish,  partly  in  the  county  of  Forfar,  but  chiefly 
in  that  of  Perth  ;  including  the  villages  of  Balbrogie, 
Longleys,  and  Washington,  and  containing  2745  in- 
habitants, of  whom  1868  are  in  the  town,  12  miles  (N. 
N.  E.)  from  Perth,  and  55^  (N.)  from  Edinburgh.  This 
place  derives  the  aHix  distinguishing  its  name  from  that 
of  Cupar  in  Fifeshire,  from  the  more  ancient  part  of  the 
town,  which  is  within  the  county  of  Forfar  or  Angus. 
An  abbey  of  Cistercian  monks  was  founded  here  in  1164, 
by  Malcolm  IV.,  who  amply  endowed  it  with  lands  in  this 
parish,  and  various  other  estates  in  different  parts  of  the 
country.  Among  its  possessions  here  were,  Cupar  grange, 
the  home-farm  of  the  monastery,  where  the  abbot  had 
a  country  residence,  and  the  lands  of  Keithick,  Arthur- 
stone,  Denhead,  Balgersho,  and  Cronan.  The  endowment 
was  augmented  by  the  Hayes,  of  Errol,  and  other  bene- 
factors ;  and  the  establishment  continued  to  flourish  till 
the  dissolution,  when  its  revenue  was  valued  at  £1239 
in  money,  and  large  payments  in  wheat,  oats,  barley,  and 
other  produce.  The  last  abbot  was  Donald  Campbell,  of 
the  Argyll  family,  who,  with  the  commendator,was  buried 
in  Bendochy  church.  The  buildings  had  begun  to  fall 
into  a  state  of  dilapidation  some  few  years  before  the 
Reformation,  and  their  ruin  was  completed  by  a  body  of 
reformers  from  Perth.  The  only  vestiges  now  remaining 
of  this  once  magnificent  structure  are  in  the  north-west 
angle  of  the  present  churchyard,  on  the  side  of  the  road 
to  Dundee.  A  portion  of  the  building  with  a  beautiful 
arch  was  taken  down  in  1780,  to  furnish  materials  for 


CUPA 


C  U  R  R 


the  erection  of  the  parish  church,  of  which  the  north 
wall  rests  upon  part  of  the  foundation  of  the  ancient 
edifice.  The  lands  belonging  to  the  monastery  were 
erected,  after  its  dissolution,  into  a  temporal  lordship 
by  James  VI.,  and  granted  to  the  Hon.  James  Elphin- 
ston,  second  son  of  Lord  Balmerino,  who  was  created 
Lord  Coupar  in  1609.  On  his  decease  without  issue  the 
title  and  estates  merged  in  the  Balmerino  family,  and, 
on  the  attainder  of  Arthur,  Lord  Balmerino,  in  1745, 
became  forfeited  to  the  crown. 

The  town,  which  was  an  ancient  burgh  of  regality,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  banks  of  a  stream  that  flow's 
into  the  river  Isla,  about  three  miles  to  the  west  of  it ; 
and  consists  principally  of  four  streets,  formed  by  the 
lines  of  the  Perth  and  Dundee  high  roads,  which  inter- 
sect each  other  in  the  market-place.  The  houses  are 
generally  neat  and  well  built,  and  some,  of  more  recent 
erection,  are  of  elegant  appearance  ;  the  streets  are  paved, 
and  lighted  with  gas  by  a  company  established  within 
the  last  few  years,  and  the  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied 
with  water.  A  public  news  and  reading  room,  weil 
furnished  with  the  London  and  provincial  journals,  is 
supported  by  subscription  ;  and  an  agricultural  society 
formed  about  twenty  years  since,  for  awarding  premiums 
to  the  best  breeders  and  feeders  of  cattle,  hold  their 
meetings  here  twice  every  year.  The  post-office  has  a 
good  delivery,  and  facility  of  communication  with  Perth 
and  Dundee,  and  other  towns  in  the  vicinity,  is  afforded 
by  excellent  roads,  and  by  the  Cupar-Angus  and  Newtyle 
branch  of  the  Dundee  railway.  The  principal  manufac- 
ture pursued  is  the  hand-loom  weaving  of  the  coarser 
kinds  of  linen  for  the  wholesale  houses  in  the  neighbour- 
hood ;  there  is  also  a  tannery  in  operation.  A  salmon- 
fishery  is  carried  on  in  the  river  Isla,  which  likewise 
abounds  with  trout.  The  market  is  on  Thursday,  and 
fairs  are  held  on  the  third  Thursday  in  March,  for  horses 
and  cattle  ;  on  the  26th  of  May,  if  on  Thursday,  other- 
wise on  the  first  Thursday  after,  for  cattle  and  sheep,  and 
for  hiring  servants  ;  on  the  third  Wednesday  in  July,  and 
the  first  Tuesday  in  October,  for  horses,  sheep,  and  cattle ; 
and  on  the  22nd  of  November,  if  on  Thursday,  or  on  the 
first  Thursday  after,  for  cattle  and  for  hiring  servants. 
Cattle-markets  are  also  held  on  the  first  Thursday  in 
December,  and  every  succeeding  Thursday  till  May.  The 
Steeple  was  erected  by  subscription  in  I767,  on  the  site  of 
the  ancient  prison  of  the  burgh  of  regality,  and  the  lower 
part  of  it  is  used  as  a  place  of  temporary  confinement. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Isla, 
and  is  intersected  by  the  great  north  road  through  the 
vale  of  Strathmore;  it  is  about  five  miles  in  length,  and 
from  one  mile  and  a  half  to  two  miles  and  a  half  in 
breadth,  comprising  2S00  acres.  The  surface  is  varied  ; 
and  from  a  high  ridge  which  intersects  the  parish,  is 
obtained  a  splendid  view  of  the  Sidlaw  mountains  on  the 
south,  the  lower  range  of  the  Grampians  on  the  north, 
with  the  distant  summits  of  Ben-More,  Sehihallion,  and 
Ben-Voirlich.  The  soil  is  various ;  in  some  parts  a  rich 
alluvial  loam  ;  in  others  a  stiff  retentive  clay,  alternated 
with  sand  and  gravel,  and  with  peat-moss.  The  system 
of  agriculture  is  improved,  and  the  rotation  plan  of  hus- 
bandry is  in  general  use  ;  the  chief  crops  are,  wheat, 
oats,  barley,  and  turnips.  The  lands  have  been  well 
drained,  and  much  of  inferior  quality  has  been  brought 
into  profitable  cultivation ;  the  buildings  on  the  larger 
farms  are  substantial  and  commodious,  but  on  the 
Vol.  I.— 257 


smaller  of  a  very  inferior  description.  The  cattle,  gene- 
rally of  a  mixed  breed,  have  been  much  improved  under 
the  encouragement  afforded  by  the  agricultural  society. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  Perthshire  portion  of 
the  parish  is  £9324,  and  of  the  Angus  portion  £591, 
making  a  total  of  £9915.  Keithick  and  Arthurstone 
are  handsome  residences.  There  were  formerly  popu- 
lous villages  at  Keithick  and  Caddam,  but  both  have 
disappeared.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Meigle  and  synod 
of  Angus  and  Mearns.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £239, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £25  per  annum  ; 
patron,  the  Crown.  The  church,  a  plain  structure,  was 
built  in  the  year  17S0,  and  enlarged  in  1832,  and  contains 
800  sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members 
of  the  Free  Church  and  United  Associate  Synod,  Original 
Seceders,  the  Relief  Church,  and  Episcopalians.  The 
parochial  school  is  well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  above  £70.  A  savings'  bank  was  opened  in  1839, 
and  has  deposits  to  the  amount  of  £2600  ;  there  are  also 
two  friendly  societies,  and  a  ladies'  society  for  visiting 
and  assisting  indigent  and  aged  women.  To  the  east  of 
the  churchyard  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  camp,  sup- 
posed to  have  been  that  of  Lollius  Urbicus,  and  within 
the  area  of  which  the  abbey  was  founded. 

CURRIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Edinburgh, 
6  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Edinburgh  ;  containing,  with  the 
villages  of  Balerno  and  Hermiston,  2000  inhabitants,  of 
whom  297  are  in  the  village  of  Currie.  This  place, 
called  anciently  Kil-Leith,  from  a  religious  establish- 
ment on  the  Water  of  Leith,  is  supposed  to  have  de- 
rived its  more  general  appellation  from  the  remains  of 
the  Roman  station  Coria,  which  some  antiquaries  have 
identified  with  the  immediate  vicinity.  The  lands  ap- 
pear to  have  been  the  property  of  the  Lennox  family,  of 
whose  baronial  residence,  Lennox  Tower,  there  are  still 
considerable  remains  on  an  elevated  situation  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  Frith 
of  Forth.  This  castle,  which  was  the  occasional  resi- 
dence of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  and  afterwards  of  the 
regent  Morton,  was  a  place  of  great  strength,  sur- 
rounded by  a  rampart,  and  inaccessible  on  all  sides.  A 
subterraneous  passage  afforded  communication  with  the 
river,  and  has  but  recently  been  closed,  to  protect  the 
cattle  that  graze  on  its  site. 

The  parish  is  skirted  on  the  south  by  the  Pentland 
hills,  and  is  about  six  miles  in  mean  length,  though  its 
extreme  points  from  east  to  west  are  eight  miles  distant. 
It  is  four  miles  in  average  breadth,  and  comprises  an 
area  of  11,000  acres,  of  which  two-thirds  are  arable, 
and  the  remainder  hill  pasture  and  moss.  The  surface 
is  generally  elevated,  and  broken  into  numerous  hills, 
of  which  Ravelrig,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  is 
S00  feet  above  the  sea.  There  are  also  Currie  hill  and 
various  others,  of  which  some  rise  to  a  still  greater 
height.  The  lower  grounds  are  watered  by  the  river  of 
Leith,  which  has  its  source  in  three  copious  springs 
near  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish,  and,  after  a 
course  of  fourteen  miles,  in  which  it  turns  numerous 
mills,  flows  into  the  Frith  of  Forth  at  the  harbour  of 
Leith.  The  soil  is  mostly  a  stiff  retentive  clay,  and, 
though  difficult  to  work,  is  fertile,  producing  favourable 
crops  of  grain  of  all  kinds,  notwithstanding  that  the 
harvests  are  usually  late.     The  system  of  husbandry  is 

2  L 


CUTH 


CYRU 


in  a  very  improved  state  ;  the  lands  are  inclosed,  and 
the  farm-buildings  substantial  and  commodious.  Con- 
siderable numbers  of  black- cattle  are  reared  in  the  pas- 
tures, and  sent  to  Edinburgh  ;  and  during  the  spring 
and  summer  months,  many  sheep  are  purchased  by  the 
farmers,  and  fattened  for  the  neighbouring  markets. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  returned 
at  £12,164. 

The  principal  substrata  are  limestone  and  freestone  of 
excellent  quality  ;  and  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  iron- 
stone is  found  in  abundance.  The  limestone  is  not 
wrought  for  manure,  from  the  want  of  coal ;  but  near 
the  village  of  Balerno  are  extensive  quarries  of  free- 
stone, from  which  materials  have  been  taken  for  many 
of  the  buildings  of  the  New  Town  of  Edinburgh.  In  the 
lower  parts  of  the  parish,  towards  the  north,  are  consi- 
derable remains  of  ancient  woods  ;  but  on  the  higher 
lands,  except  on  the  demesnes  of  the  landed  proprietors, 
there  are  very  few  plantations.  The  seats  are,  Baberton, 
Ravelrig,  Glen-Darroch,  Glen-Brook,  Riccarton,  Currie 
Hill,  Larch  Grove,  Bankhead,  West  Brook,  and  Malleny. 
The  village  of  Currie  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Water  of  Leith,  and  on  the  road  to  Lanark.  The  manu- 
facture of  paper  was  introduced  here  about  the  year 
1790,  by  Messrs.  Nisbet  and  Macniven,  who  erected 
extensive  mills  for  that  purpose  ;  and  there  are  also 
numerous  corn  and  other  mills  in  the  parish.  Facilities 
of  communication  are  afforded  by  the  roads  to  Lanark 
and  Glasgow,  and  by  the  Union  canal,  which  passes 
through  a  small  portion  of  the  parish. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  presbytery  of  Edinburgh  and  synod 
of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£264,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £16  per 
annum  ;  patrons,  the  Town  Council  of  Edinburgh. 
The  church,  a  neat  structure  erected  about  the  year 
1790,  is  situated  on  an  eminence  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  river ;  and  its  spire,  rising  above  the  foliage  around, 
forms  a  pleasing  feature  in  the  scenery  of  the  village. 
There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  United 
Secession  Church.  The  parochial  school  is  well  at- 
tended ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £42.  Opposite  to 
Lennox  Tower,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  are  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  mansion  of  the  Skenes,  of  Currie 
Hill ;  and  on  the  summit  of  Ravelrig,  are  some  remains 
of  a  Roman  exploratory  camp.  Among  the  distin- 
guished persons  connected  with  the  parish  have  been, 
Sir  George  Skene,  lord  registrar  in  the  reign  of  James 
VI.,  and  his  son,  Sir  James,  president  of  the  court  of 
session  ;  Sir  Thomas  Craig,  lord  advocate  in  that  reign  ; 
and  the  Scotts  of  Malleny,  eminent  lawyers  of  the  same 
period.  Sir  Archibald  Johnston  of  Warriston,  uncle 
of  Bishop  Burnet,  and  whose  son  was  envoy  to  Bran- 
denburgh  in  the  reigns  of  King  William  and  Queen 
Anne,  was  a  large  landholder  in  the  parish. 
CUSHNIE,  Aberdeen. — See  Leochel. 
CUTHBERT'S,  ST.— See  Edinburgh. 
CUTHILL,  or  Cuttle,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Prestonpans,  county  of  Haddington  ;  containing  172 
inhabitants.  This  place  is  on  the  shore  of  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  and  in  the  western  part  of  the  parish,  adjoining 
the  village  of  Prestonpans.  Some  salt-works,  a  pottery, 
and  a  magnesia  manufactory  were  formerly  carried  on 
here. 

258 


CYRUS,  SAINT,  or  Ecclescraig,  a  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Kincardine  ;  including  the  villages  of  Loch- 
side,  Milton,  Roadside,  and  Tangleha,  and  containing 
1 600  inhabitants,  of  whom  207  are  in  the  village  of  St. 
Cyrus,  5|  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Montrose.  This  place, 
now  generally  known  by  the  former  of  the  two  names, 
is  supposed  to  have  derived  the  latter,  in  the  Gaelic 
language  Eaglais-Creag,  from  the  situation  of  its  church 
at  the  base  of  a  rocky  promontory  projecting  into  the 
North  Sea.  The  name  of  St.  Cyrus,  which,  till  the  close 
of  the  last  century,  was  limited  to  a  portion  only  of  the 
parish,  is  derived  from  a  saint  who  lived  in  retirement 
on  the  adjacent  lands  of  Criggie,  where  there  is  a  well 
still  called  after  him.  At  an  early  period,  this  place  was 
distinguished  for  a  castle  named  the  Fortress  of  Lauris- 
ton,  near  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  parish.  It  was 
erected  about  the  10th  century,  and,  in  the  reign  of 
Edward  III.  of  England,  sustained  repeated  assaults 
from  the  troops  of  that  monarch,  by  whom,  in  1336,  it 
was  taken  and  garrisoned  with  English  soldiers ;  but 
towards  the  close  of  that  year  it  was  recaptured  by  the 
regent  Murray,  and  dismantled.  The  castle,  and  the 
lands  belonging  to  it,  were,  for  more  than  four  centuries, 
in  the  possession  of  the  Straton  family,  but  in  1695 
were  sold  to  Sir  John  Falconer.  From  his  descendants 
they  were,  about  the  year  1789,  purchased  by  Mr. 
Brand,  who  incorporated  the  remains  of  the  ancient 
building,  consisting  of  a  square  tower  and  a  portion  of 
the  chapel,  into  a  spacious  modern  mansion. 

The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  south-east  by 
the  sea,  and  on  the  south  and  south-west  by  the  North 
Esk  river,  is  about  five  miles  in  length,  and  from  two 
and  a  half  to  three  in  breadth.  It  contains  S477  acres, 
of  which  6234  are  arable,  300  woods  and  plantations, 
and  the  remainder  meadow,  pasture,  and  waste.  The 
surface  is  diversified  with  hills,  of  which  the  principal 
are,  Bridgeton  and  Jackston,  in  the  east,  and  Morphy 
and  Pitbeadly  in  the  west,  averaging  about  500  feet  in 
height,  and  Brands  hill  and  Woodston  hill,  having  an 
elevation  of  630  feet  above  the  sea.  These  hills  are  in- 
tersected with  deep  valleys  and  narrow  glens,  watered 
by  various  rivulets,  one  of  which,  in  its  progress  towards 
the  sea,  forms  a  picturesque  cascade.  The  coast,  which 
is  indented  with  several  small  bays,  is  a  level  beach  of 
fine  sand  for  about  a  mile  from  the  mouth  of  the  North 
Esk,  beyond  which  it  is  lined  by  precipitous  cliffs  of 
limestone,  worn  by  the  action  of  the  waves  into  caverns 
of  fanciful  appearance.  In  the  vicinity  of  Milton- 
Mathers,  where  lime- works  had  been  long  established, 
the  quarrymen  had  so  undermined  the  elevated  ledge 
which  defended  that  part  of  the  coast,  that,  in  1795, 
the  whole  of  the  village  was  swept  away  by  an  irruption 
of  the  sea,  which  has  now  encroached  for  150  yards 
upon  the  land. 

The  soil  is  generally  a  rich  and  fertile  clay,  well 
adapted  for  grain  of  every  kind ;  the  crops  are,  oats, 
barley,  wheat,  beans,  peas,  turnips,  and  potatoes,  of 
which  last  great  quantities  are  raised.  The  system  of 
agriculture  is  improved  ;  the  dairy-farms  are  productive, 
and  a  kind  of  sweet-milk  cheese  is  made,  which  is  in 
high  estimation.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £14,034.  The  woods  mainly  consist  of  ash, 
plane,  elm,  beech,  and  birch,  and  the  plantations  of 
larch  and  Scotch  and  silver  firs ;  they  are  well  ma- 
naged, and  are  for  the  most  part  thriving.     A  great 


C  Y  R  U 


D  A  I  L 


variety  of  other  trees  have  been  planted  on  the  lands  of 
Lauriston  with  entire  success.  The  prevailing  rocks  in 
the  parish  are  of  the  old  red  sandstone  and  trap  forma- 
tion. There  are  quarries  of  a  durable  white  sandstone, 
used  chiefly  for  ornamental  building,  on  the  lands  of 
Kirkside;  and  at  Woodston  and  Lauriston,  sandstone 
which  is  easily  wrought,  and  very  durable,  is  extensively 
quarried,  yielding  a  return  of  £1000  per  annum.  Tile- 
stones  were  formerly  obtained  at  Morphy,  for  roofing  ; 
but,  from  their  insufficiency  to  resist  the  influence  of 
the  atmosphere,  the  use  of  them  has  been  discontinued. 
Lime-works  were  also  once  carried  on,  to  a  great  ex- 
tent ;  and  at  Sea-Greens,  on  the  coast,  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  works,  is  a  small  harbour  accessible  to 
boats  of  50  or  60  tons'  burthen,  by  which  the  produce  of 
the  works  was  conveyed  to  its  destination.  Among  the 
seats  in  the  parish  is  Lauriston,  a  handsome  mansion 
erected  by  the  late  proprietor,  and  including  portions  of 
the  ancient  castle ;  it  is  romantically  situated  on  the 
verge  of  a  precipitous  height  rising  from  a  deep  and 
richly-wooded  dell.  Mount  Cyrus  stands  on  an  emi- 
nence to  the  north-west  of  the  village,  with  beautiful 
lawns  and  extensive  plantations ;  and  Kirkside  House, 
a  substantial  modern  mansion,  is  near  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish,  in  grounds  tastefully  laid  out,  and 
commanding  some  fine  views  of  the  bay  and  town  of 
Montrose.  Bridgeton  is  also  pleasantly  situated,  on 
rising  ground  near  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish. 
The  manufacture  of  coarse  linen  is  carried  on,  affording 
employment  to  about  thirty  persons.  There  are  some 
valuable  salmon-fisheries,  together  producing  a  rental 
of  nearly  £3000  per  annum,  and  giving  occupation  to 
about  sixty  persons;  the  greater  number  of  fish  are 
packed  in  ice,  and  conveyed  to  the  Edinburgh  and 
London  markets.  Facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  good  roads,  of  which  the  great  north  road  passes 
through  the  parish,  and  has  on  its  line  two  handsome 
bridges,  one  built  in  1775,  at  au  expense  of  £6000,  and 
the  other  in  1S1*,  at  a  cost  of  £600. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Fordoun  and  synod  of 
Angus  and  Mearns.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £247.  17-, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £1 1  per  annum  ; 
patron,  the  Crown.  The  church,  erected  in  1783,  on  a 
site  nearly  a  mile  to  the  north  of  the  ancient  church, 
and  enlarged  in  1S30,  is  a  neat  substantial  structure 
with  a  spire,  and  contains  about  S50  sittings.  From 
its  situation  on  an  eminence  250  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  it  forms  a  conspicuous  landmark  for  mariners. 
There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church.  The  parochial  school  is  well  attended ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £33,  with  a  good  house  and 
garden,  and  the  fees  average  £30.  The  parochial  library 
contains  nearly  750  volumes,  chiefly  on  religious  sub- 
jects. Sir  Joseph  Straton,  of  Kirkside,  bequeathed 
£500  for  promoting  education  within  the  parish,  the 
proceeds  of  which  sum  are  applied  to  the  payment  of 
school  fees  for  the  children  of  the  poor.  Among  the 
relics  of  antiquity  is  the  Kaim  of  Mathers,  a  camp  on 
those  lands,  situated  on  a  rocky  peninsula  connected 
with  the  main  land  by  a  narrow  isthmus,  defended  by 
battlements  on  each  side  :  on  the  peninsula  are  the 
remains  of  a  square  tower,  said  to  have  been  the  resi- 
dence of  the  ancestors  of  the  Barclays  of  Ury.  The 
castle  of  Morphy,  supposed  to  have  been  the  baronial 
'259 


seat  of  the  Graham  family,  has  totally  disappeared,  and 
the  site  has  been  effaced  by  the  plough.  On  the  lands, 
however,  is  still  an  upright  stone,  erected,  according  to 
tradition,  to  commemorate  the  defeat  of  the  Danes  in 
a  battle  that  took  place  near  the  spot ;  it  has  the  form 
of  an  obelisk,  about  thirteen  feet  in  height,  and  the 
number  of  stone  coffins  containing  human  bones  which 
have  been  found  in  an  adjoining  field,  strengthens  the 
probability  of  its  supposed  origin.  On  the  hill  of  Pit- 
beadly  are  some  remains  of  a  circular  camp. 


D 


DAILLY,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Carrick, 
county  of  Ayr,  6  miles  (S.  by  W.)  from  Maybole  ;  con- 
taining 2272  inhabitants,  of  whom  591  are  in  the  vil- 
lage. The  parish  is  about  seven  miles  in  length,  from 
east  to  west,  and  varies  from  four  to  six  miles  in  breadth. 
The  surface  is  chiefly  one  extended  valley,  bounded  on 
both  sides  by  hills  of  moderate  elevation,  and  enlivened 
by  natural  woods  and  thriving  plantations  ;  and  the 
prospect  from  the  hills,  including  the  winding  course  of 
the  Girvan  for  nearly  seven  miles,  in  a  direction  parallel 
with  the  boundary  of  the  parish,  together  with  the  fine 
demesnes  along  its  banks,  is  extremely  picturesque. 
The  soil  near  the  river  is  light,  but  very  productive. 
On  the  south  side  of  the  valley  it  is  incumbent  on  a 
bed  of  gravel,  and  is  peculiarly  favourable  for  pasture  ; 
on  the  north  side  it  is  intermixed  with  clay.  The  whole 
number  of  acres  is  estimated  at  17,000,  of  which  about 
9000  are  arable,  2500  woods  and  plantations,  and  the 
remainder  pasture  and  moorland,  of  which  not  more 
than  about  300  appear  capable  of  being  brought  into 
cultivation.  The  crops  are.  wheat,  oats,  barley,  pota- 
toes, and  turnips  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  greatly 
improved,  and  much  of  the  moorland  has  been  re- 
claimed. Great  attention  is  paid  to  live  stock  ;  the 
cattle  are  of  the  Ayrshire  breed,  with  a  few  of  the 
Galloway,  and  some  crosses  between  the  Ayrshire  and 
Teeswater  breeds.  The  sheep  are  of  three  varieties, 
the  black-faced,  the  Cheviot,  and  a  cross  between  these 
two  breeds.  Embanking  has  been  practised  with  great 
success  :  to  prevent  the  inundation  to  which  the  lands 
were  subject  from  the  river  Girvan,  and  to  shorten  its 
course,  a  new  channel  of  about  210  yards  in  length  was 
some  time  since  formed,  and  on  both  sides  of  it  a  double 
embankment  was  raised.  The  woods  consist  of  oak, 
ash,  plane,  elm,  and  birch,  and  the  plantations  are 
principally  Scotch,  larch,  and  spruce  firs  ;  they  are  well 
managed,  and  in  a  very  thriving  state.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £10,695. 

The  substrata  are  chiefly  coal,  limestone,  and  free- 
stone. The  coal  occurs  in  a  large  tract  of  elliptic  form, 
about  six  miles  in  length,  and  600  yards  in  breadth, 
forming  part  of  the  great  coalfield  extending  from  Edin- 
burgh into  the  county  of  Ayr.  It  is  of  excellent  quality ; 
the  quantity  annually  raised  averages  about  20,000 
tons,  and  a  great  portion  of  it  is  shipped  for  the  coast 
of  Ireland.  The  limestone,  which  is  also  of  good  quality, 
is  extensively  quarried  at  Craighead,  on  the  Bargany 
estate,  and  at  Blair  hill,  on  the  lands  of  Kilkerran  ;  the 
quantity  annually  produced  is  100,000  bolls.  The  free- 
stone is   found  in  numerous  places,  but  the  most  valu- 

2  L  2 


D  A  I  II 


D  A  L  B 


able  occurs  on  the  bases  of  the  hills  south  of  the  coal 
basin,  on  the  estate  of  Kilkerran,  and  the  whitest  and 
most  compact  lies  near  the  centre  of  that  tract.  The 
materials  for  the  building  of  the  mansions  of  Kilkerran 
and  Dalquharran,  in  this  parish,  and  of  Blairquhan,  in 
the  parish  of  Straiton,  were  raised  from  the  freestone 
quarries  here.  Kilkerran  and  Dalquharran  are  hand- 
some houses,  pleasantly  situated  in  demesnes  richly 
embellished  with  plantations  ;  the  grounds  of  Bargany 
and  Killochen  are  also  fine.  The  village  has  been 
greatly  enlarged  and  improved  within  the  last  few 
years ;  the  new  parts  of  it  are  regularly  built,  and  the 
houses  of  neat  appearance.  It  has  a  post-office  under 
that  of  Maybole.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is 
£348  ;  the  manse,  built  in  1801,  is  a  comfortable  resi- 
dence, and  the  glebe  comprises  seven  acres  of  land, 
valued  at  £15.  10.  per  annum.  The  church,  which  is 
in  the  village,  is  a  substantial  edifice  erected  in  1"66, 
and  adapted  for  600  persons.  The  members  of  the  Free 
Church  have  a  place  of  worship.  The  parochial  school, 
which  is  also  a  grammar  school,  is  well  conducted  ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  a  house  and  garden, 
and  the  fees  average  £25.  A  parochial  library  has  been 
established,  and  is  supported  by  subscription  ;  it  has 
nearly  200  volumes,  chiefly  on  religious  subjects.  At 
Machry-Kill  was  formerly  a  small  church  or  chapel 
dedicated  to  St.  Macarius,  from  which  circumstance 
that  place  took  its  name ;  and  at  the  extremity  of  a 
wild  and  romantic  dell  near  Kilkerran,  abounding  with 
picturesque  features,  was  a  chapel  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin,  from  which  the  place  still  retains  the  appella- 
tion of  the  Lady-Glen.  At  the  western  extremity  of 
the  ridge  of  hills  that  intersects  the  parish,  are  the 
remains  of  an  ancient  encampment  of  oval  form,  about 
100  yards  in  length,  and  sixty-five  in  breadth  at  the 
centre  ;  it  is  surrounded  by  a  double  intrenchment,  of 
which  the  inner  rampart  is  the  more  entire.  It  com- 
mands a  most  extensive  view,  and  is  supposed  to  have 
been  connected  with  the  history  of  Robert  Bruce. 

DAIRSIE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cupar,  county 
of  Fife,  2  miles  (E.  N.  E.)  from  Cupar  ;  containing, 
with  the  village  of  Osnaburgh,  or  Dairsie-Muir,  669 
inhabitants.  This  place  is  of  some  antiquity,  and  ap- 
pears to  have  belonged  to  the  see  of  St.  Andrew's  till 
the  year  1520,  when  it  was  granted,  by  charter  of 
Archbishop  Foreman,  to  the  family  of  Learmonth  of 
Clatto,  in  whose  possession  it  remained  till  the  year 
1616.  It  then  became  the  property  of  Archbishop 
Spottiswood,  from  whose  descendant,  Sir  John  Spot- 
tiswood,  it  was  conveyed  to  Sir  George  Morrison,  Knt. ; 
and  it  was  subsequently  purchased  by  Thomas,  Earl  of 
Kincardine.  The  estate  was  sold  by  the  earl,  in  1772, 
to  General  Scott,  of  Balcomy,  whose  daughter  con- 
veyed it  by  marriage  to  the  Duke  of  Portland,  by 
whom  it  was  afterwards  disposed  of;  and  it  is  now 
divided  among  several  proprietors.  Dairsie  Castle,  the 
residence  of  Archbishop  Spottiswood,  and  in  which  it 
is  said  he  wrote  his  History  of  the  Church  of  Scotland, 
though  now  a  ruin,  is  in  good  preservation  ;  it  is  situ- 
ated on  an  eminence  near  the  banks  of  the  river  Eden, 
and  has  an  air  of  venerable  antiquity.  It  was  selected 
as  a  place  of  security  and  retirement,  during  the  minority 
of  David  II.,  by  the  regents  of  Scotland. 
260 


The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  south  and 
south-east  by  the  Eden,  is  of  irregular  form,  nearly 
three  miles  in  length,  and  of  almost  equal  breadth, 
comprising  2300  acres,  of  which,  except  about  fifty 
acres  in  woodland  and  plantations,  the  whole  is  arable. 
The  surface  rises  gently  to  a  considerable  elevation, 
and,  towards  the  centre,  into  two  conspicuous  hills 
called  respectively  Foodie  and  Craigfoodie,  of  which 
the  latter  is  500  feet  above  the  sea.  Both  these  hills 
are  cultivated  to  their  summit;  and  Foodie,  which  is 
the  less  elevated,  is  crowned  with  plantations.  The 
river,  over  which  is  a  handsome  bridge  of  three  arches, 
erected  by  Archbishop  Spottiswood,  abounds  with  sal- 
mon and  trout  ;  and  the  Middlefoodie  burn,  a  fine  trout- 
stream,  also  intersects  the  parish,  and  flows  into  the 
Eden.  The  soil  is  mostly  fertile,  and  in  many  parts  of 
great  depth  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  excellent ; 
the  crops  are,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips, 
with  the  various  grasses,  and  the  crops  generally  are 
favourable.  The  substrata  are  chiefly  whinstone  and 
freestone  ;  the  former  is  quarried  on  the  hill  of  Foodie, 
and  the  latter  is  found  in  abundance  on  the  lands  near 
the  river.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£4752. 

The  principal  mansion-houses  are,  Craigfoodie,  Pitor- 
mie,  and  New-Mill,  all  modern  buildings.  Woodend 
Cottage,  a  small  but  handsome  residence,  surrounded 
with  wood,  was  occupied  for  some  time  by  Lord  William 
Russell,  who  was  inhumanly  murdered  in  London  by 
his  valet  Courvoisier.  The  manufacture  of  dowlas  is 
carried  on  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Inglis,  in  whose 
establishment  about  thirty-five  persons  are  engaged ; 
and  there  are  two  mills  for  the  spinning  of  flax,  one 
belonging  to  Mr.  Annan,  in  which  5200  spindles,  and 
one  to  Mr.  Michael  Smith,  in  which  31,250  spindles, 
are  employed.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod 
of  Fife.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £250.  19.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £11  per  annum  ;  patron, 
Captain  Mc  Donald.  The  church,  situated  near  the 
remains  of  the  old  castle,  was  erected  by  Archbishop 
Spottiswood,  about  the  year  1621,  and  was  originally  an 
elegant  structure  in  the  later  English  style,  of  which  it 
was  one  of  the  most  beautiful  specimens  in  the  country. 
It  underwent  much  mutilation,  however,  in  the  time  of 
the  Covenanters,  who,  in  their  zeal  for  the  demolition 
of  idolatrous  monuments,  in  1645  destroyed  most  of  its 
richest  details.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have 
a  place  of  worship.  The  parochial  school  is  attended 
by  about  sixty  children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £25  per 
annum. 

DALAROSSIE,  Inverness.— See  Moy. 

DALAVICH,  Argyll. — See  Kilchrenan. 

DALBEATTIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Urr, 
stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  3|  miles  (S.  E.)  from 
Castle-Douglas ;  containing  1430  inhabitants.  This 
place  is  of  modern  erection,  and  is  built  on  the  estates  of 
the  Copland  and  Maxwell  families.  It  is  seated  on  both 
sides  of  the  Dalbeattie  burn,  and  is  admirably  situated 
for  trade,  the  river  Urr  being  navigable  so  far  from  the 
Solway  Frith  for  small  vessels,  and  the  burn,  which  is  a 
considerable  stream,  being  well  adapted  for  driving 
machinery.  The  manufacture  of  paper  is  carried  on. 
A  large  portion  of  the  population  is  Irish,   for  whose 


D  A  LG 


D  A  L  H 


labour,  in  the  present  state  of  the  district,  there  is  not 
a  sufficient  demand,  and  hence  much  poverty  exists 
among  them.  A  post-office  is  established  under  Castle- 
Douglas.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  in  connexion 
with  the  Free  Church  ;  and  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel 
was  built  here  about  thirty  years  since. 

DALCROSS,  Nairn  and  Inverness. — See  Croy. 
DALGARVAN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kilwin- 
ning, district  of  Cunninghame,  county  of  Ayr,  1| 
mile  (N.  by  W.)  from  Kilwinning  ;  containing  107  inha- 
bitants. It  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Irvine  to 
Dairy,  and  on  the  west  side  of  the  Garnock  river,  which 
runs  here  in  a  direction  nearly  from  north  to  south. 

DALGETY,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Dunferm- 
line, county  of  Fife,  2  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Aber- 
dour ;  containing,  with  the  villages  of  St.  David  and 
Fordel-Square,  and  part  of  the  villages  of  Crossgates 
and  Hillend,  1265  inhabitants.  This  place,  which  is  on 
the  Frith  of  Forth,  appears  to  have  been  indebted  for  its 
growth  and  importance  to  its  situation  in  the  heart  of  a 
district  abounding  in  mineral  wealth,  and  to  the  facili- 
ties it  possessed  of  exporting  the  produce,  from  its  prox- 
imity to  the  sea.  The  abundance  and  superior  quality 
of  the  coal  in  the  parish  seem  to  have  attracted  atten- 
tion at  a  very  early  period,  and  the  mines  are  supposed 
to  have  been  worked  for  nearly  three  centuries  :  none, 
however,  are  at  present  in  operation.  The  parish  is 
about  five  miles  in  length,  and  in  some  parts  not  more 
than  one  mile  in  breadth.  The  surface  slopes  gently 
from  the  Frith  towards  the  more  inland  parts,  where  it 
attains  an  elevation  of  nearly  440  feet  above  the  sea  ; 
and  the  higher  grounds  command  an  extensive  and  in- 
teresting view  over  the  opposite  shores  of  the  Frith. 
The  scenery  is  enlivened  by  the  loch  of  Otterston,  about 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  in  breadth,  the  shores  of  which,  enriched  with 
plantations  and  with  natural  wood,  and  having  a  pleas- 
ing alternation  of  hill  and  valley,  form  a  very  pic- 
turesque and  varied  landscape.  A  rivulet  descending 
from  the  higher  grounds  flows  through  a  deep  wooded 
dell,  and,  meeting  with  the  stream  of  water  from  the 
drainage  of  the  collieries  at  Fordel,  is  precipitated  in 
its  course  from  a  rock,  forming  a  strikingly  romantic 
fall  of  nearly  fifty  feet. 

The  soil,  especially  in  the  southern  part  of  the  parish, 
is  a  deep  black  loam,  mixed  with  clay;  in  the  higher 
grounds,  lighter ;  and  in  some  of  the  lower,  wet  and 
swampy,  with  moss  and  heath.  From  the  abundance 
of  lime,  however,  the  lands  are  in  general  fertile,  and 
the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  very  advanced  condi- 
tion ;  draining  has  been  carried  on  successfully,  and 
the  wet  lands  in  the  northern  part  have  been  greatly 
improved.  The  chief  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  potatoes, 
and  turnips  ;  but  there  is  little  more  than  1000  acres 
under  cultivation,  and  about  240  in  wood  and  planta- 
tions. The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£10,5*3.  The  substratum  mainly  consists  of  secondary 
rock  ;  and  sandstone,  whinstone,  bituminous  shale, 
limestone,  and  coal  are  abundant.  The  sandstone  is 
found  in  various  parts,  but  of  better  quality  in  the 
southern  portion  of  the  parish  ;  the  limestone  lies 
under  the  strata  of  coal,  about  fifty  fathoms  below  the 
surface,  and  the  coal,  of  which  the  beds  are  very  exten- 
sive, are  in  many  places  intersected  with  dykes  of  sand- 
stone, interspersed  with  limestone  and  quartz.  The 
261 


principal  coal-works  are  on  the  estate  of  Fordel,  and 
were  in  operation  at  a  very  early  period,  though  not  car- 
ried on  to  any  great  extent  till  within  the  last  forty  years. 
The  quantity  of  coal  raised  annually  at  these  works  was 
about  70,000  tons,  a  great  part  of  which,  from  its  supe- 
rior quality,  was  exported  to  the  continent  and  to 
America  ;  it  was  conveyed  from  the  pits  to  the  coast  by 
a  railroad  of  iron,  in  waggons  containing  from  two  to 
three  tons  each.  The  number  of  persons  employed,  in- 
cluding women  and  children,  was  about  550,  for  whose 
accommodation  130  houses  had  been  built  on  the 
estate,  with  neat  gardens  ;  and  there  were  many  others 
regularly  engaged  in  shipping  the  coal  at  the  port  of  St. 
David.  The  great  north  road  runs  through  a  remote 
part  of  the  parish. 

Donibristle  is  a  splendid  domain  along  the  shore  : 
Fordel  House  is  a  handsome  residence  in  extensive 
grounds  embellished  with  plantations,  and  comprehend- 
ing much  interesting  scenery  ;  Cockairney  is  an  ancient 
mansion,  situated  near  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  lake 
of  Otterston,  and  on  the  northern  bank  is  the  old  house 
of  Otterston.  St.  Colme  House,  a  modern  edifice,  is 
pleasantly  situated  opposite  to  the  island  of  Inchcolm,  in 
the  Frith  of  Forth.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Dunfermline 
and  synod  of  Fife.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is 
£227 ;  the  manse  is  the  finest  in  Scotland,  and  the 
glebe  is  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The  church,  a  very 
handsome  edifice  in  the  later  English  style,  was  erected 
in  1830,  on  a  site  about  a  mile  to  the  north  of  the 
ancient  church,  which  was  close  to  the  sea ;  it  is 
adapted  for  500  persons.  The  parochial  school  is  well 
managed  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  and  the  fees  on  the  average  amount  to  £18. 
On  the  lands  of  the  Earl  of  Moray  are  the  remains  of 
the  ancient  church,  which  was,  previously  to  the  Re- 
formation, an  appendage  of  the  monastery  on  the  island 
of  Inchcolm.  Within  the  area  is  the  tomb  of  Chan- 
cellor Seaton,  who  was  created  Earl  of  Dunfermline  in 
1605;  and  in  front  of  one  of  the  remaining  galleries, 
are  the  arms  of  the  earls  of  Dunfermline. 

DALGINROSS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Comrie, 
county  of  Perth,  65  miles  (W.)  from  Crieff;  containing 
317  inhabitants.  This  place  is  situated  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  parish,  and  on  the  road  from  Crieff  to 
Lochearuhead  :  the  Earn  water  and  Ruchill  rivulet  pass 
in  its  immediate  vicinity.  The  village  adjoins  that  of 
Comrie,  and  partakes  of  its  trade,  which  is  chiefly 
cotton- weaving.  On  the  contiguous  plain  of  Dalginross 
is  a  large  Roman  camp,  of  which  Mr.  Pennant  has  given 
a  plan  and  description  in  his  Tour. 

DALHOUSIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cockpen, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  1  mile  (W.)  from  Cockpen  ; 
containing  99  inhabitants.  It  is  a  small  and  straggling 
place,  situated  south  of  the  road  between  Cockpen  and 
Lasswade.  The  neighbourhood  is  distinguished  as  the 
seat,  for  many  generations,  of  the  noble  family  of  Ram- 
say, whose  baronial  mansion,  Dalhousie  Castle,  stands 
on  the  banks  of  the  South  Esk,  which  flows  at  a  few 
yards  distance  from  the  walls.  It  is  of  great  antiquity, 
but  has  lost  much  of  its  former  venerable  aspect,  having 
undergone  many  alterations  from  time  to  time,  and  been 
much  modernised  by  the  late  Earl  of  Dalhousie.  This 
illustrious  nobleman  and  gallant  officer,  who  rendered 
important  services  to  his  country  through  a  brilliant 


DALE 


D  A  L  K 


military  career  in  various  parts  of  the  globe,  died  at 
the  castle  in  March  1838,  in  his  sixty-eighth  year,  and 
was  succeeded  by  his  only  surviving  son,  James 
Andrew,  the  tenth  and  present  earl. 

DALINTOBER,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Camp- 
belltown,  district  of  Cantyre,  county  of  Argyll, 
1  mile  (N.  W.)  from  Campbelltown  ;  containing  176c2 
inhabitants.  This  place  forms  a  pleasant  suburb  to  the 
burgh  of  Campbelltown,  and  is  beautifully  situated  on 
the  opposite  shore  of  the  loch  of  Kilkerran,  now  Camp- 
belltown bay,  at  its  north-western  extremity.  From 
the  freedom  its  proprietors  possess  of  granting  long 
leases  for  building,  from  which  the  superior  of  Camp- 
belltown is  restricted,  it  has  rapidly  increased  to  an 
extent  rivalling  that  of  the  burgh.  It  consists  of  one 
spacious  street  extending  along  the  water-side,  and  has 
a  substantial  little  pier. — See  Campbelltown. 

DALKEITH,  a  market-town,  burgh  of  barony,  and 
parish,  in  the  county  of  Edinburgh  ;  containing,  with 
the  villages  of  Lugton  and  Whitehill,  5830  inhabitants, 
of  whom  4S31  are  in  the  town,  6  miles  (S.  E.  by  S.) 
from  Edinburgh.  This  place,  at  a  very  remote  period, 
was  the  property  of  the  ancient  family  of  Graham, 
whose  baronial  castle,  together  with  the  lands,  in  the 
reign  of  David  II.,  passed,  by  marriage  with  the  daughter 
and  heiress  of  the  last  lord,  to  Sir  William  Douglas, 
ancestor  of  the  earls  of  Morton.  In  the  reign  of  James 
II.,  the  castle  was  besieged  by  the  Earl  of  Douglas, 
in  consequence  of  the  firm  attachment  of  its  pro- 
prietor to  the  cause  of  that  monarch,  against  whom 
the  Douglas  family  had  rebelled.  It  was,  however, 
vigorously  and  successfully  defended,  and,  after  the 
disastrous  battle  of  Pinkie,  in  154",  became  the  asylum 
of  many  of  the  Scots  who  fled  to  it  for  refuge,  till, 
from  want  of  provisions,  the  garrison  was  compelled  to 
surrender  to  the  English.  The  castle  was  afterwards 
the  chief  residence  of  the  regent  Morton,  on  whose 
attainder,  for  the  murder  of  Lord  Darnley,  it  was, 
together  with  the  barony,  forfeited  to  the  crown.  Upon 
his  execution,  however,  the  lands  were  in  part  restored 
to  his  family,  though  the  castle  was  still  held  by  the 
crown,  and,  under  the  designation  of  the  Palace  of  Dalkeith, 
was  reserved  for  the  residence  of  Prince  Henry,  son 
of  James  VI.  During  the  visit  of  Charles  I.  to  Scot- 
land, in  1633,  the  palace  was  the  chief  residence  of  that 
monarch;  and  in  1638,  it  was  occupied  by  the  Mar- 
quess of  Hamilton,  who  had  been  appointed  by  the 
king  commissioner  to  treat  with  the  Covenanters,  and 
who,  for  greater  security,  removed  into  it  the  ancient 
regalia  of  Scotland,  which  were  subsequently  deposited 
in  the  castle  of  Edinburgh.  In  1642,  the  castle  and 
barony  were  purchased  by  the  family  of  Scott,  who  are 
the  present  proprietors  ;  and  in  the  time  of  the  parlia- 
mentary war,  the  former  became  the  residence  of  General 
Monk,  Cromwell's  governor  of  Scotland,  by  whom  the 
grounds  are  said  to  have  been  considerably  improved. 

The  town  is  beautifully  situated  between  the  rivers 
North  and  South  Esk,  and  is  handsome  and  well  built, 
consisting  of  several  regular  streets,  of  which  the  High- 
street  is  spacious,  and  increases  in  breadth,  from  its 
entrance  on  the  west,  till  it  terminates  on  the  east  at 
the  principal  lodge  of  the  palace.  The  streets  are 
paved,  and  lighted  with  gas  ;  and  the  inhabitants  are 
amply  supplied  with  water.  A  public  subscriDtion 
library  was  established    in   1698,  and  has  now  a  collec- 


tion of  nearly  2500  volumes  -,  there  is  also  a  circulating 
library,  containing  3000  volumes.  A  scientific  associa- 
tion was  instituted  in  1835,  for  the  delivery  of  lec- 
tures on  scientific  subjects,  and  was  for  some  time 
supported  with  spirit ;  but,  from  the  difficulty  of  pro- 
curing a  regular  succession  of  lecturers,  it  has  been 
almost  discontinued.  In  the  High-street  are  nume- 
rous substantial  houses  and  handsome  shops  stored 
with  every  kind  of  merchandise ;  and  in  other  parts 
of  the  town  are  several  iron-foundries,  tanneries,  a 
brewery,  soap  and  candle  manufactories,  extensive  brick 
and  tile  works,  and  other  establishments,  with  some 
hotels  and  inns  of  a  very  superior  description.  There 
are  also  several  branch  banks,  and  offices  for  the 
agents  of  different  insurance  companies. 

The  market  for  grain,  which  is  amply  supplied,  is 
on  Thursday,  and  is  numerously  attended  by  dealers 
from  distant  places.  From  Martinmas  to  Whitsuntide, 
a  very  large  market  for  oatmeal  is  held  weekly,  on 
Monday,  which  is  one  of  the  most  frequented  in 
the  kingdom  ;  and  a  customary  market,  abundantly 
supplied  with  butchers'  meat,  poultry,  and  vegetables 
and  provisions  of  all  kinds,  is  held  every  Saturday. 
Fairs,  chiefly  for  horses  and  black-cattle,  are  held  on 
the  first  Thursday  in  May  and  the  third  Tuesday  in 
October.  Facility  of  communication  is  maintained  by 
good  roads  in  various  directions,  and  by  the  Edinburgh 
and  Dalkeith  railway,  which  has  its  terminus  near 
the  west  entrance  of  the  town.  This  railway,  constructed 
under  acts  of  parliament  passed  in  1826  and  1829, 
by  a  company  with  a  capital  of  £150,000,  was  completed 
to  the  South  Esk  river,  near  Newbattle,  a  distance  of 
eight  miles  and  a  quarter,  and  opened  to  the  public  in 
1831.  The  line  from  Sheriff  Hall  to  the  town,  carried, 
by  a  stately  bridge  and  massive  embankment,  over  the 
North  Esk,  was  constructed  at  the  expense  of  the 
Duke  of  Buccleuch,  and  opened  in  1838.  A  branch  to 
the  duke's  collieries  at  Cowden,  after  passing  through 
part  of  the  town,  is  continued  across  the  valley  of  the 
South  Esk  by  a  noble  viaduct  of  timber,  supported  on 
piers  of  stone,  and  consisting  of  six  arches,  of  which 
four  are  each  120  feet  in  span.  There  are  branches 
diverging  from  the  main  line  to  Leith  and  Fisherrow, 
including  which  the  railway  is  about  fifteen  miles  in 
length ;  and  it  is  intended  to  introduce  locomotive- 
engines,  and  continue  the  line  to  Hawick.  The  station 
at  Dalkeith  is  a  neat  building  in  the  cottage  style.  The 
town  is  partly  governed  by  a  baron-bailie,  appointed 
by  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  ;  but  he  exercises  civil  juris- 
diction only  in  actions  not  exceeding  £2,  and  jurisdiction 
in  criminal  cases  only  for  petty  offences  punishable  by 
a  small  fine  or  a  night's  imprisonment,  referring  all 
more  important  causes  to  the  sheriff  of  the  county. 
There  are  six  incorporated  trades,  the  hammermen, 
bakers,  weavers,  shoemakers,  dyers,  and  butchers ;  but 
they  possess  no  exclusive  privileges,  and  are  scarcely 
to  be  regarded  as  any  thing  more  than  so  many  friendly 
societies.  The  paving,  lighting,  and  watching  of  the 
town,  with  the  regulation  of  the  markets  and  police, 
are  under  the  direction  of  a  board  of  trustees,  who  are 
invested  with  power  to  levy  taxes  for  these  purposes. 
The  court-house,  containing  also  a  small  prison,  is  an 
ancient  building  without  any  pretension  to  style,  situated 
in  the  High-street. 

From  the  beauty  of  the  surrounding  scenery,  and  the 


DALK 


D  A  L  L 


numerous  attractions  of  its  palace  and  other  objects 
of  interest,  the  town  is  a  favourite  place  of  residence, 
and  the  resort  of  visiters  from  Edinburgh.  The  palace, 
which  was  the  residence  of  George  IV.  during  his  visit 
to  Scotland  in  1822,  and  had  also  the  honour  of  a 
visit  from  her  present  Majesty,  attended  by  Prince 
Albert,  in  1S42,  is  situated  at  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  town.  Though  not  remarkable  for  the  style  of  its 
architecture,  it  is  a  spacious  and  magnificent  structure. 
It  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  castle,  on  the 
precipitous  and  richly-wooded  banks  of  the  North 
Esk,  about  the  close  of  the  17  th  century,  by  Anne, 
Duchess  of  Buccleuch  and  Monmouth,  who,  after  the 
execution  of  her  husband,  the  Duke  of  Monmouth,  re- 
sided here  in  all  the  pomp  and  splendour,  and  with  all 
the  appendages,  of  royalty.  The  interior  comprises 
numerous  state  apartments  :  the  grand  staircase,  the 
throne-room,  the  conservatory,  the  picture-gallery,  con- 
taining an  extensive  collection  of  paintings  by  the 
most  eminent  masters  of  the  various  schools,  and  the 
whole  of  the  internal  arrangements  are  costly  and 
superb.  The  demesne  attached  to  the  palace  com- 
prises more  than  1000  acres,  and  abounds  with  variety 
and  beauty  of  scenery.  The  rivers  North  and  South 
Esk,  of  which  the  banks  are  precipitous  and  richly- 
wooded,  flow  in  graceful  windings  through  the  demesne, 
and  unite  their  streams,  over  which  are  many  pic- 
turesque bridges,  within  its  limits.  The  pleasure-grounds 
are  tastefully  laid  out  in  lawns,  shrubberies,  and  plant- 
ations ;  and  the  park,  which  is  well  stocked  with  deer, 
is  finely  ornamented  with  venerable  timber. 

The  parish  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  nearly 
two  in  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  which  about  one- 
half  is  arable,  and  the  remainder  woodland  and  pasture. 
The  soil  is  rich,  and  the  lands  are  divided  into  farms 
of  moderate  extent,  in  the  highest  state  of  cultivation  ; 
the  chief  crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  beans,  potatoes, 
and  turnips,  and  much  of  the  surface  is  garden  ground, 
producing  abundance  of  fruit  for  the  Edinburgh  market. 
The  substratum  is  generally  coal,  which  is  found  at  a 
very  considerable  depth,  and  of  which  extensive  mines 
are  in  operation  at  Cowden,  about  a  mile  to  the  south- 
east of  the  town.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £16,713.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Dalkeith  and 
synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  patron,  the  Duke  of 
Buccleuch.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £316,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £40  per  annum.  The  old 
parish  church,  on  the  north  side  of  the  High-street,  is 
an  ancient  structure  in  the  early  English  style,  with  a 
square  embattled  tower,  and  is  partly  dilapidated  ;  the 
interior  is  but  indifferently  arranged,  containing  1130 
sittings,  of  which  sixty-five  are  free.  The  churchyard  is 
extensive.  A  new  church  was  erected  by  the  Duke  of 
Buccleuch  in  1S40  ;  it  is  a  handsome  cruciform  struc- 
ture in  the  later  English  style,  and  is  beautifully 
situated  in  the  north-west  of  the  town,  overlooking 
the  vale  of  the  North  Esk.  There  are  places  of  worship 
for  members  of  the  United  Secession,  Independents, 
the  Relief  Church,  Wesleyans,  and  members  of  the 
Free  Church.  The  parochial  or  grammar  school,  which 
has  long  maintained  a  high  degree  of  reputation,  is 
conducted  by  a  rector  and  two  assistants  ;  the  rector's 
salary  is  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  about  £75.  The  course  of  studies  includes  the 
263 


classics,  the  French  and  Italian  languages,  the  mathe- 
matics, and  the  usual  branches  of  a  liberal  education  ; 
and  many  eminent  literary  characters  have  received 
the  rudiments  of  their  education  in  the  establishment. 
The  town  confers  the  title  of  earl  upon  the  Duke  of 
Buccleuch. 

DALLAS,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Elgin;  includ- 
ing the  hamlet  of  Edinville,  and  containing  1179  in- 
habitants, of  whom  187  are  in  the  village  of  Dallas, 
8  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Forres.  This  place  takes  its  name 
from  the  two  Gaelic  words  dale,  a  vale  or  plain,  and  uis, 
contracted  from  uisge,  water.  It  was  formerly  the  seat 
of  the  sub-dean,  and  comprehended  the  parish  of  Altyre; 
but  that  district  was  disjoined  and  annexed  to  the  parish 
of  Rafford,  in  1657,  and  Easter-Kelles,  a  part  of  the 
parish  of  Elgin,  was  joined  to  Dallas,  an  arrangement 
which  was  ratified  by  act  of  parliament  in  1661.  The 
barony  of  Dallas  was  at  an  early  period  in  the  posses- 
sion of  the  Cummings  of  Altyre,  whose  castle  of  Dallas, 
or  Torcastle,  was  built  by  Sir  Thomas  Cumming  in  the 
year  1400  ;  and  the  Cummings,  with  the  Earl  of  Fife, 
are  still  the  principal  heritors.  The  parish,  approximat- 
ing in  form  to  an  oval,  measures  about  fifteen  miles  in 
length,  and  nine  in  breadth,  and  consists  mainly  of 
valleys  and  rising  grounds.  The  chief  valley  is  watered 
by  the  Lossie,  which  rises  here,  in  Loch  Trevie,  and, 
after  contributing  to  form  much  beautiful  scenery,  and 
taking  its  course  through  the  parishes  of  Birnie,  Elgin, 
and  Drainie,  falls  into  the  Moray  Frith  at  the  port  of 
Lossiemouth.  The  summits  of  the  hills  skirting  this 
valley  on  each  side  are  covered  with  heath,  but  their 
slopes  are  highly  cultivated,  yielding  heavy  and  luxu- 
riant crops,  down  to  the  banks  of  the  stream,  which 
in  many  places  are  ornamented  with  alder-trees,  sup- 
plying bark  frequently  used  by  the  people  for  preparing 
a  black  dye.  Besides  the  Lossie,  there  are  numerous 
burns  greatly  enlivening  the  scenery,  which  in  general 
is  highly  interesting;  and  all  of  these,  rising  among  the 
hills,  run  into  the  Lossie.  That  called  the  burn  of  Glen 
Latterach,  or  Angry  burn,  forms  a  beautiful  cascade, 
surrounded  by  nearly  perpendicular  rocks  100  feet  in 
height ;  and  on  the  burn  of  Auchness  is  another  pictu- 
resque fall,  though  less  striking  than  the  former.  All 
the  lochs  are  well  stocked  with  excellent  trout ;  the 
chief  are  those  of  Dallas,  Noir,  Rheninver,  and  Trevie. 
The  soil  along  the  banks  of  the  Lossie  is  a  fertile  allu- 
vial earth,  resting  on  gravel ;  but  at  the  base  of  the 
mountains  the  land  has  a  tilly  subsoil,  and  partakes  of 
the  character  of  the  mosses,  which,  higher  up,  towards 
the  south,  are  spread  out  in  extensive  tracts.  Most  of 
the  inhabitants  are  employed  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
land.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2913. 
The  rocks  comprise  granite,  felspar,  mica,  freestone, 
and  grey  slate,  and  there  are  quarries  of  the  two  last, 
but  not  in  operation.  Of  the  plantations,  the  most  con- 
spicuous are  those  on  the  hills  of  Melundy  and  Wangie, 
and  that  on  the  estate  of  Craigmill ;  the  first  has  lately 
been  replanted  with  silver-fir,  spruce,  larch,  and  birch, 
and  part  of  the  second  with  fir  and  larch,  the  other  part 
being  covered  with  natural  oak.  CraigmilL  adjoining 
Melundy,  has  a  thriving  plantation  of  fir  and  larch. 
The  village,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  northern  bank 
of  the  Lossie,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  church, 
was  feued  forty-five  years  since,  by  Sir  Alexander  Pen- 
rose Cumming.      The  woollen  manufacture  is   carried 


D  A  L  M 


DALM 


on  in  the  parish,  employing  ten  or  twelve  hands.  There 
are  county  roads  to  Elgin  and  Forres,  in  good  condi- 
tion ;  and  a  new  road  called  the  Knockando  road,  ex- 
tending from  Forres  to  the  Spey,  is  of  great  advantage 
to  the  more  hilly  parts  of  the  district.  The  parish  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Forres  and  synod  of  Moray,  and  in 
the  patronage  of  Sir  William  Gordon  Gordon  dim- 
ming, of  Altyre  and  Gordonstown,  Bart.  The  minis- 
ter's stipend  is  £15S.  6.  8.,  of  which  about  a  third  is 
received  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £11  per  annum.  The  church,  situated  in 
about  the  centre  of  the  parish,  will  accommodate  400 
persons,  but,  never  having  been  properly  finished,  is 
found  inconvenient  and  uncomfortable.  The  parochial 
school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches  ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house,  and  £12  fees, 
and  also  participates  in  the  Dick  bequest.  The  chief 
relic  of  antiquity  is  the  ruin  of  the  castle,  situated  on  a 
plain  about  a  mile  from  the  church,  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  Lossie  ;  and  in  the  churchyard  is  a  stone  cross, 
twelve  feet  high,  at  the  foot  of  which  lies  an  effigy  of 
St.  Michael,  the  patron  saint  of  the  parish,  in  ruins. 

DALMELLINGTON,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of 
Kyle,  county  of  Ayr,  14  miles  (S.  E.  by  S.)  from  Ayr ; 
containing  1199  inhabitants.  This  place  derived  its 
name,  signifying  in  the  Gaelic  language  "  the  town  of 
the  valley  of  the  mill,"  from  the  particular  local  features 
which  distinguished  it  at  the  time.  The  parish  is  about 
ten  miles  in  length,  and  three  in  average  breadth,  and 
is  bounded  on  the  south  and  south-west  by  the  lake  and 
river  of  Doon,  which  separate  it  from  the  parish  of 
Straiton,  in  Carrick.  It  comprises  20,000  acres,  of 
which  1304  are  arable,  17,S00  pasture  and  waste,  whereof 
1200  might  be  brought  into  profitable  cultivation,  750 
woods  and  plantations,  and  about  300  undivided  com- 
mon. The  surface  is  extremely  varied.  The  upper 
portion  of  it  is  intersected  by  three  ridges  of  moderate 
elevation,  two  of  which  are  nearly  parallel,  and  the 
third  crossing  them  obliquely.  The  lower  part  of  the 
parish  is  one  continued  ridge  of  heights,  of  which  the 
principal  are  Benwhat,  Benbraniachan,  and  Benbeoch, 
which  last  terminates  the  ridge,  to  the  east,  in  a  splendid 
range  of  basaltic  columns  nearly  300  feet  in  height,  and 
about  600  feet  in  breadth.  Between  this  ridge  and  the 
river  Doon  is  a  level  plain,  about  three  miles  in  length, 
and  one  mile  broad,  and  on  which  the  village  is  situ- 
ated. 

Several  deep  and  precipitous  defiles  are  formed  bj' 
the  approach  of  the  ridges  towards  each  other ;  and  on 
the  Dumfries  road  they  approximate  so  closely  as,  in 
some  parts,  to  leave  only  a  sufficient  passage  for  the 
road  and  a  small  burn  which  flows  by  it.  On  the  side 
of  the  Loch  Doon  range  of  heights,  where  the  river 
issues  from  the  lake,  the  precipitous  rocks  approach 
within  thirty  feet  of  each  other  for  nearly  a  mile,  rising 
perpendicularly  to  the  height  of  300  feet  above  the  bed 
of  the  river,  and  presenting  a  magnificent  combination 
of  features.  This  pass,  called  the  Glen  or  Craigs  of 
Ness,  forms  the  entrance  to  the  vale  of  Doon,  which 
afterwards  expands  into  rich  and  luxuriant  meadows. 
The  river  issues  from  the  lake  through  two  tunnels 
excavated  in  the  solid  rock,  and,  pursuing  a  north- 
westerly course  along  the  boundary  of  the  parish,  in- 
tersects a  level  plain,  in  part  of  which,  near  the  village, 
its  waters  expand  into  a  wide  lake.  This  lake  is  called 
264 


Bogton,  and  is  frequented  by  aquatic  fowl  of  various 
kinds  ;  and  near  the  south-east  of  the  parish  is  Loch 
Muck,  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  covering  about  thirty 
acres  in  the  middle  of  a  heathy  moor,  of  great  depth, 
and  abounding  with  black  trout. 

The  soil  on  the  banks  of  the  river  is  a  deep  rich 
loam ;  along  the  bases  of  the  hills  in  the  lower  part  of 
the  parish,  a  moist  clayey  loam,  resting  on  sandstone; 
and  behind  the  ridge,  moss.  In  the  higher  part  the  soil 
is  light  and  dry,  interspersed  with  peat  resting  on  grey- 
wacke  rock,  with  some  portions  of  heath.  The  prin- 
cipal crop  of  grain  is  oats,  and  the  green  crops  are 
chiefly  potatoes  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  advanc- 
ing; draining  has  been  practised  to  a  small  extent,  and 
spade  husbandry  has  been  adopted  with  success  upon 
the  mossy  lands,  on  a  limited  scale.  About  8000  sheep, 
mostly  of  the  black-faced  breed,  are  pastured  in  the 
course  of  the  year,  with  a  small  number  of  the  Cheviot 
and  Leicestershire  breeds;  300  Ayrshire  cows,  and 
about  500  head  of  young  cattle,  partly  of  the  Galloway 
breed,  are  also  annually  pastured.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £3679.  The  plantations  are 
principally  larch  and  Scotch  fir,  which  appear  to  be 
well  adapted  to  the  soil,  and  are  in  a  thriving  condi- 
tion, with  ash,  and  birch,  some  oak,  and  other  hard- 
woods. The  substrata  are  chiefly  sandstone  and  grey- 
wacke,  with  coal,  ironstone,  and  limestone ;  the  coal 
has  been  worked  in  several  places,  in  some  of  which, 
especially  in  the  lower  parts  of  the  parish,  it  has  been 
found  at  little  more  than  two  fathoms  from  the  surface. 
Pits  have  been  opened,  and  are  now  in  operation,  at 
Camlarg,  about  a  mile  from  the  village,  and  at  the 
extremity  of  the  parish,  about  five  miles  distant. 

The  village,  which  was  a  burgh  of  barony,  is  plea- 
santly situated  in  the  vale,  sheltered  in  the  rear  by  hills 
of  various  elevation.  There  are,  a  library  supported  by 
subscription,  which  has  a  collection  of  800  volumes, 
and  a  reading-room,  which  has  also  a  library  of  more 
than  600  volumes,  bequeathed  to  it  some  years  since  by 
a  shopkeeper  of  the  village.  A  penny-post  has  been 
established  here  ;  and  there  are  some  inns  for  the  recep- 
tion of  the  numerous  visiters  whom  the  interesting 
scenery  of  the  neighbourhood  attracts  to  the  spot,  and 
of  the  shooting  and  fishing  parties  who  resort  hither 
during  the  season.  The  woollen  manufacture  is  carried 
on  to  a  tolerable  extent.  Two  mills,  employing  a 
moderate  number  of  hands,  are  in  operation,  in  spin- 
ning woollen-yarn,  which  is  here  manufactured  into 
plaidmg,  tartans,  carpets,  blankets,  and  packing-cloths. 
Several  of  the  inhabitants  are  also  employed  in  weaving 
cotton  cloth ;  and  there  was  formerly  an  extensive 
bleachfield,  which,  since  the  substitution  of  cottons, 
and  the  increased  importation  of  Irish  linens,  has  been 
discontinued,  and  in  lieu  of  which  a  thread-mill  has 
been  substituted  on  the  premises.  Fairs  are  held  on 
Easter  Eve,  the  first  Friday  after  Whitsunday,  and 
Hallow  E'en  (O.  S.),  chiefly  for  wool  and  for  hiring 
servants. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown. 
The  minister's  stipend  is  £15S,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The  church,  situated 
in  the  village,  was  built  in  1766,  and  is  adapted  for 
nearly  450  persons.  The  parochial  school  is  well 
conducted;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £10 


DALM 


DALM 


fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  There  was  formerly 
a  castle  near  the  village,  the  site  of  which  only  is  re- 
maining, the  materials  having  been  removed  for  the 
erection  of  a  house  in  the  village,  from  that  circum- 
stance called  the  Castle  House.  It  appears  to  have  been 
but  of  small  dimensions  ;  it  is  traditionally  styled  Dame 
Helen's  Castle,  and  between  it  and  the  village  is  a  mound, 
once  the  place  for  dispensing  justice.  There  was  an- 
other castle,  apparently  of  larger  dimensions,  and  of 
greater  strength,  situated  on  the  projecting  side  of  a 
deep  glen,  and  called  Laght  Alpine  ;  nothing,  however, 
but  the  site  is  remaining.  A  Roman  road  passed 
through  the  whole  length  of  the  parish,  but  has  been 
destroyed  to  furnish  materials  for  making  dykes  ;  it 
has  been  traced  through  the  parish  of  Dalrymple  to 
its  termination  at  a  ford  on  the  river  Ayr.  Several 
cairns,  also,  have  been  removed  for  a  similar  purpose, 
one  of  which,  on  the  summit  of  a  hill  above  the  village, 
was  115  yards  in  circumference. 

DALMENY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Linlith- 
gow ;  including  the  village  of  Craigie,  and  containing 
1393  inhabitants,  of  whom  1  IS  are  in  the  village  of 
Dalmeny,  ]•£  mile  (S.  E.)  from  Queensferry.  This  place, 
in  ancient  records  styled  Dumanie,  is  supposed  to  have 
derived  that  name,  of  Celtic  origin,  signifying  black 
heath,  from  the  appearance  of  the  greater  portion  of  its 
surface  at  that  period.  The  barony,  including  the  lands 
and  castle  of  Barnbougle,  once  belonged  to  the  family 
of  Mowbray,  who  came  over  from  Normandy  with 
William  the  Conqueror,  and  of  whom  Philip  de  Mow- 
bray was  lord  of  Dalmeny  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  II. 
It  remained  in  the  possession  of  his  descendants  till  the 
year  1615,  when  it  was  sold  by  Sir  Robert  Mowbray  to 
Sir  Thomas  Hamilton,  afterwards  Earl  of  Haddington, 
whose  grandson,  in  166*2,  disposed  of  it  to  Sir  Archi- 
bald Primrose,  Bart.,  of  Carrington,  afterwards  justice- 
general  of  Scotland,  and  ancestor  of  the  Earl  of  Rose- 
bery,  the  present  proprietor. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  along  which  it  extends  for  about  four  miles,  from 
a  rivulet  separating  it  from  the  parish  of  Cramond,  on 
the  east,  to  Abercorn  on  the  west.  It  is  about  two 
miles  and  a  half  in  breadth,  and  includes  the  ancient 
parish  of  Auldcathie,  which  was  annexed  to  it  in  1618, 
and  is  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun  ;  the  whole 
comprising  an  area  of  5850  acres,  of  which  650  are  in 
Auldcathie.  The  number  of  acres  under  tillage  is  about 
4000;  1000  are  meadow  and  pasture,  and  S50  wood- 
land and  plantations.  The  surface  is  finely  undulated, 
rising  in  some  parts  into  hills  of  considerable  height,  of 
which  the  principal  are,  Dundas  hill,  the  Mons,  and 
Craigie  hill,  having  an  average  elevation  of  380  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  view  from  the  summit  of  Mons 
hill  is  almost  unrivalled  for  beauty  and  extent,  com- 
manding a  range  over  sixteen  counties,  and  com- 
prising a  rich  variety  of  picturesque  and  romantic 
features.  The  shore  is  indented  with  numerous  small 
bays  and  inlets ;  and  though  in  some  parts  the  beach  is 
rendered  unsafe,  from  the  quantities  of  moss  carried 
down  by  the  river,  yet  it  is  pleasingly  alternated  with 
tracts  of  white  sand,  in  which  a  great  variety  of  shells 
is  imbedded.  The  Linmill  burn  flows  into  the  Frith 
near  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish,  and  in  its 
course,  falling  from  a  precipitous  rock  of  whinstone, 
nearly  seventy-five  feet  hish,  near  Springfield,  forms  a 
Vol.  I.— 265 


pleasing  cascade.  The  soil  of  the  higher  grounds  is 
chiefly  clay,  improving  gradually  towards  the  lower 
lands  into  a  rich  loam,  producing  abundant  crops,  in 
some  places  almost  without  manure.  The  system  of 
agriculture  is  in  a  very  advanced  state,  and  the  lands 
have  been  well  drained  ;  the  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  and 
wheat,  with  turnips  and  potatoes;  the  pastures  are  rich, 
and  a  considerable  number  of  sheep  and  cattle  are  fed 
on  turnips.  The  plantations  consist  of  oak,  ash,  elm, 
beech,  plane,  and  rir,  of  which  there  are  many  trees  of 
ancient  growth.  The  substrata  are,  limestone,  freestone, 
and  whinstone  ;  and  along  the  acclivity  of  Dundas  hill  is 
a  range  of  columnar  basalt,  seventy  feet  in  height,  at  the 
base  of  which  was  formerly  a  loch,  now  drained,  and 
consisting  of  a  deep  bed  of  moss  lying  on  shell  marl,  in 
which  oak-trees  have  been  found  imbedded,  in  a  very 
perfect  state.  The  freestone  is  of  the  finest  quality,  and 
has  been  extensively  wrought  near  Queensferry  ;  iron- 
stone is  also  found,  and  there  are  some  indications  ot 
coal,  but  no  attempts  have  been  made  to  work  it. 

Dalmeny  House,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Rosebery,  is  a 
noble  mansion  built  by  the  present  earl,  and  surrounded 
by  an  extensive  and   richly-wooded  park,  in  which  are 
the  remains  of  the  ancient   castle  of  Barnbougle,  over- 
hanging the  Frith.     The   grounds   gradually  rise   from 
the  shore  in  beautiful  undulations,  commanding  diver- 
sified prospects  over  the  Frith  and  the  adjacent  country, 
and  combining  much  variety  of  scenery.     Her  Majesty 
visited  this  seat  during  her  stay  at  Edinburgh  in  Sept. 
1S4<2.      Craigie  Hall  stands   near  the  south-eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the   parish,  in  the  vale  of  the  Almond,  and 
sheltered  by  rising  grounds  clothed  with  stately  timber. 
The    river  Almond  winds   through    the  demesne,  and, 
flowing   by  the   mansion,   forms   a  picturesque   cascade 
falling  perpendicularly  from  its  rocky  bed,  shortly  after 
which   the  stream   runs  beneath  a  rustic  bridge  of  one 
arch,  forty-eight  feet   in  span,  erected  in  the  year  1757. 
Near  the    cascade    is    a   grotto,    in    which  are   a  bath, 
supplied  and  emptied   by  sluices  from  the  river,  and  a 
saloon.     Dundas,  an  elegant  modern  mansion  built  in 
connexion  with  an  ancient  baronial  castle,  is  situated 
on  the   steep  acclivity  of  a  craggy  hill,  in  a  picturesque 
demesne    of    1600   acres.      The    castle,   is  supposed   to 
have   been  originally  erected  in  the  eleventh  century, 
and  several  additions  were  made  to  it  in  the  early  part 
of  the  fifteenth   century,   when   its  proprietor  obtained 
a  license  from   Robert,  Duke  of  Albany,  to  convert  it 
into  a  fortress,  which  license  was  confirmed  by  James  I., 
in   1424.     The  walls,  which  are  of  great  thickness,  were 
raised  to  the   height   of  seventy-five   feet ;   the  various 
rooms   are   all   vaulted,   and  a  circular    staircase    leads 
to  the  roof,  which  is  flat,  and  defended  by  a  battlement. 
In   the  grounds,   in   front  of  the   castle,  is   a   fountain 
of  singular  design,   formerly  occupying  the   centre  of  a 
quadrangular  area  inclosed   with    massive   stone   walls, 
twelve  feet  in  height.     Within  these  walls  were  flights 
of  steps,   leading    to   a   banquet-room    at   each   of   the 
angles  ;   and  the  whole  is  said  to  have  been  constructed 
in    16C23,   by  Sir  Walter  Dundas,   who   appropriated   to 
that  purpose  the  funds  he  had  set  aside  for  the  pur- 
chase of  the  barony  of  Barnbougle,  in  which   he  was 
anticipated  by  the  Earl  of  Haddington.     The  village  of 
Dalmeny  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  road  leading  to 
Dundas,  and  consists  of  a  few  cottages  built  round  a 
green,  with  the  church  and  manse. 

<2  M 


D  A  L  R 


D  A  L  R 


The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Linlithgow  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£9.64,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  five  and  a  half  acres  ; 
patrons,  the  Earl  of  Rosebery  and  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun, 
alternately.  The  church  is  an  ancient  structure  in  the 
Saxon  style,  of  which  it  is  a  very  elegant  specimen. 
The  interior  is  eighty-four  feet  long,  and  twenty-five 
feet  wide,  with  a  semicircular  chancel,  divided  from  the 
nave  by  a  deeply-recessed  and  richly-moulded  arch  with 
zigzag  ornaments  ;  and  the  capitals  of  the  columns  that 
support  the  vaulted  roof,  are  also  embellished  with 
sculpture.  It  was  repaired  in  1S16,  and  contains  350 
sittings.  At  the  entrance  is  a  large  stone  coffin,  formed 
of  one  entire  stone,  and  inscribed  on  the  sides  and  on  the 
lid  with  hieroglyphic  characters.  The  church  of  Auld- 
cathie  is  in  ruins.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  United  Associate  Synod.  The  parochial 
schoolmaster  has  a  salary  of  £34,  and  the  interest  of 
£300  bequeathed  by  Lady  Semple,  in  1723,  and  vested 
in  the  Earl  of  Rosebery  and  the  minister.  The  poor 
have  the  rent  of  lands  held  by  the  Earl  of  Rosebery, 
producing  about  £30  a  year.  James  Davidson,  Esq., 
bequeathed  £200  to  the  poor  not  on  the  parish  list ; 
and  such  of  them  as  live  in  that  part  of  the  town  of 
Queensferry  within  this  parish,  participate  in  the  pro- 
ceeds of  Mr.  Meek's  bequest  of  £5000  to  the  parishes 
of  Dalmeny  and  Queensferry.  About  a  mile  to  the  west 
of  Barnbougle  Castle,  on  the  summit  of  an  eminence, 
is  an  ancient  cairn  called  Earl  Cairney,  appearing  to 
have  been  originally  500  feet  in  circumference  at  the 
base,  and  now  twenty-four  feet  in  height.  At  Spring- 
field were  recently  discovered  a  skeleton  of  large  size, 
and  a  trench  filled  with  human  bones  ;  and  near  Queens- 
ferry, on  the  lands  of  Dundas,  a  brass  vessel,  in  which 
was  a  pagan  idol,  was  found  in  173S,  but  was  destroyed 
by  the  workmen.  Several  silver  medals  of  Marcus 
Antoninus,  having  on  the  reverse  a  figure  of  Victory  ; 
the  carved  handle  of  a  copper  vessel  ;  and  part  of  an 
earthen  urn,  were  found  near  Dundas  Castle.  The  pa- 
rish gives  the  title  of  Baron  to  the  Earl  of  Rosebery. — 
See  Queensferry. 

DALMUIR  and  DALMUIR-SHORE,  villages,  in 
the  parish  of  Old  Kilpatrick,  county  of  Dumbarton, 
the  one  2  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  and  the  other  2|  miles  (S.  E. 
by  S.)  from  Old  Kilpatrick ;  containing  respectively 
526  and  1 8/  inhabitants.  These  places  are  in  the  vici- 
nity of  the  Forth  and  Clyde  canal  and  the  road  from 
Glasgow  to  Dumbarton,  and  on  the  south  flows  the 
Clyde.  They  each  partake  in  the  manufactures  of  the 
parish,  and  there  is  a  quay  for  domestic  traffic,  of  very 
ancient  date.  Among  the  works  are  a  paper-mill,  a 
bleachfield,  and  a  soda-factory  :  the  last,  established  by 
the  grandfather  of  the  present  Earl  of  Zetland,  stands 
on  the  margin  of  the  river,  its  furnaces  and  chimneys 
contrasting  remarkably  with  the  surrounding  scenery, 
which  is  very  pleasing.  The  principal  stream  of  the 
district,  supplied  by  two  lakes,  falls  here  into  the 
Clyde. 

DALROSSIE.— See  Moy  and  Dalrossie. 

DALRY,  a  manufacturing  town  and  parish,  in  the 
district  of  Cunninghame,  county  of  Ayr,  5  miles  (S.  W.) 
from  Beith,  and  7  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Saltcoats  ;  containing 
4791  inhabitants.  This  place  derives  its  name,  in  the 
Gaelic  language  signifying  the  "  king's  valley,"  from  its 
266 


situation  in  the  vale  of  Garnock,  which  formed  part  of 
the  royal  demesnes.  Previously  to  the  year  160S  the 
town  was  an  inconsiderable  village,  consisting  only  of 
five  or  six  decent  houses,  and  a  few  straggling  cottages, 
and  containing  scarcely  one  hundred  inhabitants.  It 
owes  its  origin  and  increase  to  the  erection  of  the  parish 
church  at  this  place,  towards  the  commencement  of  the 
seventeenth  century,  when  the  two  ancient  churches, 
becoming  dilapidated,  were  abandoned.  The  town  is 
beautifully  situated  on  a  gentle  eminence  rising  from  the 
right  bank  of  the  river  Garnock,  and  between  the  rivers 
Rye  and  Caaf,  which  flow  into  the  Garnock  above  and 
below  the  town  ;  it  consists  principally  of  five  streets, 
three  of  which  terminate  in  an  open  area  nearly  in  the 
centre.  The  houses  are  regularly  and  well  built,  and 
many  of  them  are  of  handsome  appearance  ;  the  streets 
are  lighted  with  gas  by  subscription  of  the  inhabitants, 
for  which  purpose  a  company  was  formed,  and  works 
erected,  in  1 834.  There  are  two  good  bridges  of  stone 
across  the  Garnock,  of  two  and  three  arches  respectively  ; 
and  bridges  of  one  arch  each  have  been  erected  over  trie 
rivers  Rye  and  Caaf. 

The  weaving  of  silk  for  the  manufacturers  of  Glasgow 
and  Paisley  is  the  principal  occupation  of  the  inhabitants, 
in  which  500  persons  are  constantly  engaged  ;  and  as 
they  are  employed  chiefly  in  the  superior  description  of 
articles,  they  have  not  been  subjected  to  the  depression 
occasioned  by  the  introduction  of  power-looms,  which 
are  not  adapted  to  the  finer  kinds  of  work.  A  great 
number  of  females,  also,  are  employed  in  sewing  and 
embroidering  muslins,  for  the  Glasgow  and  Paisley  mar- 
kets, which  are  celebrated  for  Ayrshire  needlework ; 
and  a  mill  originally  erected  for  spinning  cotton  has 
been  enlarged,  and  converted  to  the  spinning  of  woollen- 
yarn  for  the  making  of  carpets.  There  is  likewise  a 
manufactory  for  wooden  plates,  bowls,  ladles,  and  other 
articles  of  the  kind,  the  machinery  of  which  is  driven  by 
a  steam-engine  of  two-horse  power.  The  town  contains 
numerous  handsome  shops,  amply  supplied  with  every 
requisite  for  the  supply  of  the  inhabitants  and  of  the 
neighbourhood.  A  public  library  is  supported  by  sub- 
scription, and  has  more  than  1000  volumes;  a  church 
library,  also  supported  by  subscription,  in  connexion 
with  the  parochial  school,  contains  600  volumes  ;  and 
there  is  also  a  library  belonging  to  the  congregation  of 
the  United  Secession.  The  Ardrossan  Farmers'  Society 
hold  their  annual  exhibitions  occasionally  in  the  town, 
and  the  Ayrshire  Agricultural  Association  meet  alter- 
nately here  and  at  Kilmarnock.  Six  fairs  are  annually 
held,  but  one  only  is  of  any  importance,  which  takes 
place  on  the  last  day  of  July,  and  was  formerly  one  of 
the  most  extensive  horse-fairs  in  the  west  of  Scotland  ;  it 
is  chiefly  for  horses  and  cattle,  but  comparatively  little 
business  is  transacted. 

The  parish  is  ten  miles  in  length,  and  from  three  to 
eight  in  breadth,  and  comprises  19,046  acres,  of  which 
12,287  are  arable,  60S9  pasture  and  waste,  and  670 
woodland  and  plantations.  The  surface  is  pleasingly 
varied.  A  rich  and  fertile  valley,  through  which  the 
river  Garnock  pursues  its  winding  course,  intersects  the 
parish  nearly  in  the  centre.  The  grounds  on  the  western 
side  of  this  valley  rise,  by  a  gradual  ascent,  towards  the 
north-west  boundary,  and  terminate  in  a  ridge  of  hills, 
of  which  the  highest  has  an  elevation  of  1200  feet  above 
the  sea.     The  lands  on  the  eastern  side  are  interspersed 


DALR 


D  A  L  It 


with  hills  of  various  height,  of  which  Baidland  and 
Caerwinning  are  the  chief,  the  former  having  an  elevation 
of  946,  and  the  latter  of  634  feet.  The  river  Garnock 
rises  in  the  parish  of  Kilbirnie,  flows  for  seven  miles 
through  this  parish,  and,  after  receiving  in  its  course 
numerous  tributary  streams,  of  which  the  Rye  and  the 
Caaf  are  the  principal,  falls  into  the  sea  at  Irvine.  The 
Rye  has  its  source  in  the  parish  of  Largs,  and  runs 
through  a  deep  and  richly-wooded  dell  into  this  parish. 
The  Caaf  rises  on  the  confines  of  Kilbride  and  Largs, 
and,  forcing  its  way  through  &  basaltic  rock,  in  which  it 
has  worn  for  itself  a  passage,  enters  a  deep  and  rocky 
glen,  where,  its  course  being  obstructed  by  huge  blocks 
of  stone,  it  forms  a  romantic  cascade.  The  fall  is  from 
a  height  of  twenty-four  feet,  in  one  unbroken  column 
twenty  feet  in  breadth,  between  two  large  masses  of 
rock.  There  are  also  numerous  springs  of  excellent 
water  in  the  parish,  and  some  possessing  mineral  pro- 
perties, one  of  which,  at  Loans  Bridge,  is  a  strong  cha- 
lybeate, and  one  at  Maulside  powerfully  efficacious  in 
scorbutic  affections.  The  vale  of  the  Garnock  is  thought 
to  have  been  anciently  an  extensive  lake,  reaching  from 
this  place  to  Johnstone,  in  the  county  of  Renfrew,  and  of 
which  the  lochs  of  Kilbirnie  and  Castle-Semple  formed  a 
part ;  and  the  supposition  is  in  some  degree  rendered 
probable  from  the  number  of  trees  that  have  been  found 
imbedded  in  the  soil  of  the  valley. 

The  soil  is  generally  a  thin  cold  retentive  clay,  with 
a  portion  of  rich  loam  along  the  banks  of  the  Garnock  ; 
in  some  parts,  of  more  adhesive  clay,  with  a  large  extent 
of  moss  ;  and  in  the  uplands,  of  a  light  and  dry  quality. 
The  progress  of  the  plough  is  impeded  by  vast  numbers 
of  boulders,  of  which,  though  great  quantities  have  been 
removed  at  various  times,  many  still  remain ;  some  of 
the  mosses  are  of  great  depth,  and  in  all  of  them  oak, 
birch,  and  hazel  trees  are  found  prostrate.  The  crops 
are,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  beans,  potatoes,  and  flax  :  the 
system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  advanced  state,  and  much 
waste  land  has  been  brought  into  cultivation.  The 
dairy-farms  are  extensive  and  well-managed ;  about 
1400  milch-cows  are  kept,  mostly  of  the  Cunninghame 
breed,  and  the  average  quantity  of  cheese,  to  the  making 
of  which  particular  attention  is  paid,  exceeds  35,000 
stones  annually.  The  sheep  are  generally  of  the  black- 
faced  Linton  breed,  with  a  few  of  a  breed  between  the 
Cheviot  and  Leicestershire.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £16,314.  The  plantations,  especially 
those  on  the  lands  of  Blair,  which  have  been  chiefly 
formed  on  steep  rocky  banks,  within  the  last  forty  years, 
are  in  a  very  thriving  condition,  and  consist  of  oak,  ash, 
beech,  chesnuts,  and  willow,  and  of  silver  and  spruce  firs, 
and  larch.  Those  around  the  house  of  Blair  contain 
several  fine  specimens  of  luxuriant  growth,  among  which 
are  a  Spanish  chesnut  and  some  plane  trees  ;  and  in  the 
grounds  are  various  kinds  of  evergreens,  including  Por- 
tugal laurels  and  rhododendrons  of  unusual  size.  The 
plantations  on  the  lands  of  Maulside  are  also  remarkably 
fine. 

The  substrata  of  the  parish  are,  sandstone,  limestone, 
and  coal,  and  the  hills  are  mostly  claystone-porphyry, 
greenstone,  and  basalt;  jasper  is  found  in  the  porphyry, 
hornstone  in  the  bed  of  the  Caaf,  and  agate  in  that  of 
the  Rye.  In  the  hill  of  Baidland,  a  vein  of  cannel  coal 
has  been  discovered  of  the  thickness  of  six  feet,  exceed- 
ingly inflammable,  and,  when  burnt,  emitting  a  strong 
267 


sulphureous  smell.  There  are  several  coal-pits  at  present 
open  ;  valuable  clay  is  also  dug.  Limestone  is  ex- 
tensively quarried,  not  only  for  the  supply  of  the  parish, 
but  for  that  of  the  adjoining  districts  ;  and  there  are 
three  lime-kilns,  at  which  great  quantities  of  lime  are 
burnt,  and  sold  at  a  very  moderate  price.  Ironstone, 
also,  recently  discovered,  is  wrought  to  a  large  ex- 
tent. Blair  House  is  a  spacious  mansion,  situated 
in  a  richly-embellished  demesne  ;  a  handsome  residence 
has  been  recently  erected  at  Swinridgemuir,  and  there 
is  also  a  good  house  on  the  lands  of  Pitcon.  Facility 
of  intercourse  with  the  neighbouring  towns  is  afforded 
by  excellent  roads ;  and  turnpike-roads  to  Paisley, 
Irvine,  Kilmarnock,  and  Glasgow,  and  the  railway  from 
Glasgow  to  Ayr,  pass  through  the  parish. 

Dairy  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Irvine  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  patronage  of  W.  Blair,  Esq. 
The  minister's  stipend  is  £231.  10.,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £24  per  annum.  The  church,  erected 
in  1/71,  and  thoroughly  repaired  in  1821,  is  a  neat 
plain  edifice  adapted  for  S'O  persons,  but  greatly  inade- 
quate to  the  population.  There  are  places  of  worship  for 
the  Free  Church  and  United  Secession.  The  parochial 
school  affords  a  good  course  of  education  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £32,  with  £65  fees,  and  a  house  and 
garden.  There  are  considerable  remains  of  an  ancient 
fortification  on  the  summit  of  Caerwinning  hill,  con- 
sisting of  three  concentric  circular  ramparts  of  stone, 
inclosing  an  area  of  about  two  acres  in  extent,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  fosse  which  may  still  be  traced.  The 
walls,  about  ten  feet  in  thickness,  have  been  nearly 
destroyed  by  the  removal  of  the  stones,  at  different 
periods,  for  fences  and  other  uses.  The  Scottish  forces 
are  said  to  have  been  encamped  here  previously  to  the 
battle  of  Largs.  There  were  formerly  some  remains, 
also,  of  a  square  fort  on  a  precipitous  rock  called 
Aitnach  Craig,  on  the  bank  of  the  Rye  ;  but  it  has  been 
totally  destroyed.  An  artificial  mound  near  the  town, 
named  Courthill,  of  conical  form,  and  grown  over  with 
grass,  was  once  the  place  for  dispensing  justice ;  and 
various  tumuli  have  been  discovered,  in  some  of  which 
were  human  bones.  Four  urns  containing  human  bones 
have  been  found  on  the  lands  of  Linn,  near  the  site  of 
an  ancient  chapel  ;  an  urn,  also,  containing  calcined 
bones  and  ashes,  has  been  discovered  near  Blair  House. 
DALRY,  a  parish,  in  the  stewartry  of  Kirkcud- 
bright, 15  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Castle-Douglas  ;  con- 
taining 1215  inhabitants,  of  whom  574  are  in  the  village 
of  St.  John's  Clachan.  This  parish,  of  which  the  name, 
signifying  the  "  Royal  Dale,"  is  derived  from  a  level 
and  fertile  plain  called  the  Holm,  is  about  fifteen  miles 
in  length,  and  seven  miles  in  breadth,  comprising  33,000 
acres.  The  surface  is  diversified  with  hills,  of  which 
some  are  green  to  their  summit,  and  others  are  covered 
with  barren  heath  ;  the  proportion  of  arable  land  is 
very  small,  nearly  four-fifths  of  the  area  being  pasture. 
The  river  Ken,  which  rises  in  the  northern  extremity  of 
the  parish,  forms  the  western  boundary  between  it  and 
Kells,  and,  after  a  beautifully-winding  course,  flows 
through  Loch  Ken  into  the  river  Dee.  The  smaller 
streams  are,  the  Blackwater,  the  Earlston,  and  the 
Stronriggan,  which  run  through  the  parish  into  the 
Ken ;  they  all  abound  with  trout,  and  in  the  Ken 
are  found  also  pike  and  salmon.  The  chief  lakes  are, 
Lochinvar,    Boston,    Knocksting,    and    Knockman,    of 

2  M  2 


DALR 


DAL  R 


which  Lochinvar,  about  fifty  acres  in  extent,  is  the  most 
important  ;  the  others  are  all  of  very  small  dimensions, 
and  undistinguished  by  any  features  requiring  notice. 
In  Lochinvar  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  castle  of 
the  Gordons,  knights  of  Lochinvar,  and  afterwards  vis- 
counts Kenmure  ;  and  near  it  is  a  cairn,  raised  as  a 
trophy  on  a  spot  where  the  first  knight  killed  a  wild 
boar  that  infested  this  part  of  the  country.  The  scenery 
along  the  banks  of  the  Ken  is  enriched  with  ancient 
woods  of  considerable  extent,  of  which  the  largest  is 
that  of  Earlston,  formerly  a  hunting-seat  of  the  Earl  of 
Bothwell,  and  in  which  are  some  plantations  of  stately 
fir. 

The  soil  on  the  Holm  lands  is  tolerably  fertile,  yield- 
ing favourable  crops  of  barley,  oats,  turnips,  potatoes, 
and  rye  ;  and  the  hills  and  higher  lands  afford  excellent 
pasture.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  improved  ;  and 
the  surface  has  been  drained,  and  inclosed  with  stone 
dykes  of  sufficient  height  to  afford  shelter  to  the  cattle. 
Great  numbers  of  sheep  and  black-cattle  are  reared  in 
the  pastures.  In  the  village  is  a  post-office  under  that 
of  Castle-Douglas  ;  and  facility  of  communication  is 
maintained  by  good  roads,  of  which  those  from  Kirk- 
cudbright to  Ayr  and  Glasgow,  and  from  Newton- 
Stewart,  to  Dumfries  and  Edinburgh,  intersect  the  pa- 
rish. The  rateable  annual  value  of  Dairy  is  £5768. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcudbright  and  synod  of 
Galloway.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £21*.  12.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum  ;  patron, 
William  Forbes,  Esq.,  of  Callendar.  The  church,  erected 
in  1832,  is  a  neat  structure  containing  700  sittings  :  in 
the  churchyard  is  an  aisle  of  the  old  church,  quite  de- 
tached from  the  present  building,  and  which  is  the 
burying-place  of  the  Gordon  family.  There  is  a  place 
of  worship  for  members  of  the  United  Secession.  Two 
parochial  schools,  of  which  the  masters  have  salaries  of 
£25  each,  with  a  house  and  garden,  in  addition  to  the 
fees,  are  supported  by  the  heritors,  and  attended  by 
more  than  forty  children.  A  grammar  school  was 
founded  by  Dr.  Robert  Johnson,  of  London,  who  en- 
dowed it  with  £1000  for  the  gratuitous  instruction  of 
the  children  of  the  parish  ;  it  is  under  the  management 
of  two  masters,  who  have  salaries  of  £15  each,  and  is 
attended  by  nearly  120  children.  The  building,  erected 
in  1658,  comprises  a  good  dwelling-house  and  school- 
room, with  eight  acres  of  land  attached  to  it.  There 
are  several  remains  of  ancient  buildings  on  the  farms  of 
Benbreck  and  Manquhill,  supposed  to  have  been  the 
ancient  residence  of  the  Galloway  family  ;  and  in  various 
parts  of  the  parish,  are  numerous  intrench ments  for  the 
security  of  cattle  during  the  times  of  the  border  war- 
fare.— See  Clachan,  St.  John's. 

DALRYMPLE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kyle, 
county  of  Ayr,  5  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Maybole  ;  contain- 
ing 909  inhabitants.  This  place  derives  its  name,  in 
the  Celtic  language  signifying  "  the  dale  of  the  crooked 
water,"  from  the  situation  of  its  village  on  a  bend  of 
the  river  Doon.  The  barony,  which  in  ancient  times 
was  held  by  a  family  who  took  their  name  from  the 
lands,  was,  in  the  reign  of  David  II.,  divided  into  two 
portions,  and  held  by  two  families  named  Dalrymple, 
descended  from  one  common  ancestor.  In  1371,  on 
the  resignation  of  one  of  the  portionists,  John  Kennedy 
of  Dunure  obtained  from  Robert  II.  a  charter  granting 
268 


him  that  half  of  the  barony,  and  in  1377  another  charter, 
conferring  upon  him  the  other  half ;  and  the  whole  con- 
tinued in  the  possession  of  his  descendants  till  1684, 
after  which  the  barony  passed  into  the  hands  of  various 
proprietors.  The  parish  is  seven  miles  in  length,  from 
east  to  west,  and  three  miles  in  extreme  breadth,  from 
north  to  south,  and  is  bounded  on  the  south  and  west 
by  the  river  Doon ;  it  comprises  6700  acres,  of  which 
4200  are  arable,  1900  meadow  aud  hill  pasture,  500 
woodland  and  plantations,  and  about  100  water.  The 
surface,  with  the  exception  of  that  part  in  which  the 
village  is  situated,  is  exceedingly  uneven,  being  inter- 
spersed with  rising  grounds  and  small  detached  hills 
of  various  elevation.  Woodland,  the  most  southerly 
height,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  country, 
including  the  isles  of  Bute  and  Arran,  the  Mull  of  Can- 
tyre,  Ailsa  Craig,  and  Ben-Lomond;  aud  from  the  sum- 
mit of  Kirkmien,  the  highest  of  the  elevations,  the  north 
coast  of  Ireland  may  be  distinctly  seen  in  fair  weather. 
There  are  numerous  springs  in  the  parish,  of  which 
several  possess  mineral  properties,  though  one  on!y,  on 
the  lands  of  Barbieston,  is  a  chalybeate  of  moderate 
strength. 

Of  the  lakes,  the  only  one  of  much  importance  is  that 
of  Martinham,  which  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in 
length,  and  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth  ;  its 
greatest  depth  is  about  twenty-six  feet.  On  a  beauti- 
fully-wooded island  in  this  lake,  are  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  building  supposed  to  have  been  the  mansion- 
house  of  the  Martinham  estate;  they  are  100  feet  long, 
and  thirty  in  breadth,  and  the  walls,  which  are  the  chief 
remains,  are  thickly  overspread  with  luxuriant  ivy.  The 
other  lakes  are,  Loch  Snipe,  Loch  Kerse,  and  Loch 
Lindston ;  all  abound  with  pike,  perch,  and  eels,  and 
are  frequented  by  wild-duck,  teal,  widgeon,  and  other 
aquatic  fowl.  From  the  loch  of  Martinham,  which  ex- 
tends into  the  parish  of  Coylton,  a  small  burn  flows 
into  the  river  Doon.  This  river,  celebrated  by  the  poet 
Burns,  falls,  after  a  course  of  about  thirty  miles,  into 
the  Frith  of  Clyde  ;  salmon  are  found  in  its  stream, 
though  in  less  number  since  the  laying  down  of  stake- 
nets  at  its  mouth,  and  some  are  taken  v\hich  weigh 
from  ten  to  twenty  pounds.  Sea  and  yellow  trout,  par, 
eels,  and  pike  are  also  found  in  its  waters. 

The  soil  is  principally  clay,  though  alternated  with 
sand,  gravel,  and  loam  ;  the  clay  is  of  various  kinds,  of 
a  red,  blue,  and  whitish  hue  ;  the  loam  is  found  chiefly 
near  the  river  and  around  the  lochs.  There  is  very 
little  mossy  land.  The  crops  are,  oats  and  wheat, 
barley,  bear,  potatoes,  turnips,  beet,  and  a  small  quan- 
tity of  flax  for  domestic  use  ;  the  system  of  agriculture 
is  in  an  advancing  state,  and  all  the  more  recent  improve- 
ments have  been  introduced.  There  are  several  large 
dairy-farms,  all  of  which  are  well  managed  ;  about  4000 
stones  of  cheese  are  annually  produced,  of  which  a  con- 
siderable part  is  sent  to  the  markets,  and  the  remainder 
sold  for  the  supply  of  the  immediate  neighbourhood. 
The  rateable  anuual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5615.  The 
woods  consist  of  oak,  elm,  ash,  alder,  birch,  plane,  and 
lime  ;  and  the  plantations,  of  larch,  and  spruce  and 
Scotch  firs.  In  the  old  gardens  at  Skeldon  are  six 
stately  oaks,  supposed  to  be  more  than  300  years  old, 
and  some  remarkably  fine  larches  ;  and  in  the  village 
are  a  sycamore  and  horse-chesnut  tree  of  extraordinary 
dimensions.     The   substrata  are,   limestone,   red  sand- 


D  A  L  S 


D  A  L  S 


stone,  and  conglomerate.  The  limestone  occurs  in 
masses  of  not  more  than  a  foot  in  thickness,  and  of 
great  hardness  ;  the  sandstone  is  of  good  quality  for 
building,  but  not  extensively  worked,  and  large  boulders 
of  trap  and  granite  are  scattered  over  the  surface  of 
several  of  the  lands.  Coal  is  found  in  (he  upper  parts 
of  the  parish,  and  there  are  two  mines,  but  not  at  present 
in  operation.  The  seats  are  Skeldon  and  Hollybush,  both 
handsome  residences  seated  in  richly-planted  demesnes. 
The  village  is  beautifully  situated,  and  is  uniformly 
and  neatly  built  on  lands  belonging  to  the  Marquess  of 
Ailsa.  A  subscription  library,  a  musical  society,  a  curl- 
ing club,  and  a  club  in  honour  of  the  poet  Burns,  have 
been  established  here,  and  are  well  attended.  Several 
of  the  inhabitants  are  occupied  in  the  various  trades 
requisite  for  the  wants  of  the  neighbourhood  ;  and  a 
woollen  manufactory,  employing  about  thirty  persons, 
has  been  erected  on  the  bank  of  the  Doon.  The  parish 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and 
A5T,  and  patronage  of  the  Crown.  The  minister's  stipend 
is  £229.  17-j  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £12.  10. 
per  annum.  The  church,  situated  near  the  village,  was 
rebuilt  on  the  foundation  of  the  ancient  edifice,  in  1764, 
but  in  a  very  insufficient  manner.  The  parochial  school 
affords  education  to  about  sixty  scholars ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  £25  fees,  and  £S  in  lieu  of  a 
house  and  garden.  There  are  some  remains  of  the  an- 
cient castles  of  Kerse,  Skeldon,  Barbieston,  and  others  ; 
that  of  Barbieston  was  converted  into  a  dwelling-house 
about  fifty  years  since.  Part  of  a  Roman  road,  sup- 
posed to  be  that  from  Solway  Frith  to  the  Frith  of 
Clyde,  may  be  traced  through  this  parish  into  that  of 
Ayr.  A  tripod  of  Roman  bronze  was  found  in  Lind- 
ston  loch,  near  the  line  of  this  road,  about  half  a  cen- 
tury since ;  and  a  flagon  of  earthenware  of  Roman 
workmanship  was  found  at  Perclewan,  on  the  same  line 
of  road,  in  1S33.  On  the  road  from  Ayr  to  Maybole 
are  three  ancient  circular  forts,  situated  on  an  elevated 
ridge,  and  all  surrounded  with  trenches,  in  which  human 
bones  and  the  horns  of  deer  have  been  discovered.  A 
stone  coffin,  containing  a  skeleton  of  large  stature,  was 
dug  up  in  cutting  through  a  hillock  of  gravel  to  form  a 
new  approach  to  Skeldon  House ;  and  in  the  meadows 
of  Barbieston,  not  far  from  the  same  spot,  were  several 
cairns,  on  the  removal  of  which,  human  bones,  heads  of 
pikes,  and  spears  were  found.  In  a  grave  in  the  church- 
yard, several  silver  coins  of  James  I.  were  found  a  few 
years  since ;  and  silver  coins  of  Edward  I.  and  III. 
were  discovered  by  the  plough,  in  a  field  near  the  village, 
in  1S35.  The  poet  Burns,  alternately  with  his  brother, 
attended  the  parochial  school  of  Dalrymple. 

DALSERF,  a  parish,  in  the  Middle  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark  ;  including  the  villages  of  Millheugh, 
Larkhall,  and  Rosebank,  and  containing  3205  inha- 
bitants, of  whom  112  are  in  the  village  of  Dalserf, 
7  miles  (S.  E.  by  E.)  from  Hamilton.  This  place  is 
supposed  to  derive  its  name  from  the  Gaelic  words 
Dal,  signifying  "a  holm"  or  "fiat  field,"  and  Sarf, 
"  a  serpent,"  making  together  the  term  "  the  field  of 
serpents."  The  parish  was  anciently  called  Machaushire, 
but.  assumed  the  name  of  Dalserf,  as  is  generally 
thought,  about  the  time  of  the  Reformation,  through 
the  removal  of  the  church  from  its  former  site,  at 
Chapelburn,  to  the  locality  of  the  village  of  Dalserf. 
It  was  originally  an  appendage  and  chapelrv  of  Cadzovv, 
269 


now  Hamilton,  parish,  and  was  during  a  long  period 
the  property  of  the  crown.  The  celebrated  family  of 
the  Comyns  had  for  some  time  possession  of  it ;  but 
it  reverted  to  the  crown  in  the  reign  of  Baliol,  and  in 
1312  Robert  Bruce  made  a  grant  of  it  to  Sir  Walter, 
son  of  Gilbert,  ancestor  of  the  Hamilton  family,  who 
have  retained  the  principal  estates  in  the  parish  to  the 
present  time.  In  the  14th  century  the  district  was 
made  a  barony,  called  the  barony  of  Machane  or 
Machanshire.  The  Hamiltons  prominently  appear  in 
Scottish  history  ;  they  warmly  espoused  the  cause  of 
Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  and  several  of  them  were  engaged 
in  her  wars,  and  afterwards  suffered  severely  for  the 
part  they  had  taken  in  them. 

The  parish  is  six  and  a  half  miles  in  extreme  length, 
and  varies  in  breadth  from  two  miles  to  four  and  a 
half,  containing  7219  acres ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  east 
and  north-east  by  the  river  Clyde,  and  on  the  west  and 
south-west  by  the  Avon  and  Cander.  The  surface  in 
the  centre  of  the  parish  is  tolerably  level ;  but  on  the 
east  towards  the  Clyde,  and  on  the  west  towards  the 
Avon,  the  fall  is  considerable,  and  in  many  places  some- 
what abrupt.  The  slope  towards  the  north  is  conti- 
nuous, and  far  more  gradual  than  those  on  the  eastern 
and  western  sides.  The  view  on  the  north  and  north- 
west is  terminated  by  the  Campsie  hills  and  the  moun- 
tains of  Dumbarton  and  Argyllshire  ;  the  view  on  the 
south  is  bounded  by  Tinto,  of  which,  with  its  circum- 
jacent scenery,  a  very  fine  prospect  may  be  had  from 
the  high  lands  in  this  parish.  Large  quantities  of 
pheasants  and  woodcocks,  and  some  black-cocks,  are 
seen  here  ;  and  at  the  close  of  autumn,  many  flocks  of 
plovers  from  the  moorlands  visit  the  wheat-fields.  The 
chief  rivers  are  the  Clyde  and  Avon  ;  the  Cander,  which 
is  the  next  in  size,  falls  into  the  Avon,  and  gives  the 
name  of  the  district  of  Cander  to  that  part  of  the  parish 
inclosed  by  it,  where  there  are  some  superior  farms. 
Numerous  burns  rise  in  the  parish,  and  breaking  forth 
from  the  high  ridge  on  the  western  side  of  the  river 
Clyde,  dash  in  many  places  with  great  impetuosity  over 
the  abrupt  sandstone  rocks,  forming  several  beautiful 
cascades.  After  this  they  run  on  till  they  fall  into  the 
Clyde.  The  ravines  formed  by  these  waterfalls,  which 
are  swollen  in  some  parts  of  the  year  and  frequently 
dry  in  others,  are  clothed  with  foliage,  and  stretching 
across  the  country  obliquely  to  the  two  great  rivers, 
diversify  the  scenery,  and  add  considerably  to  the 
striking  views  on  the  Clyde.  The  river  Avon,  also, 
has  clusters  of  verdant  knolls  and  many  clumps  of  rich 
plantation  on  its  precipitous  sides.  The  chief  streams 
contain  salmon,  trout,  salmon-fry,  and  par-  which, 
however,  bear  at  present  no  proportion  to  their  former 
numbers,  owing  to  the  machinery  erected  on  the  banks, 
from  which  the  residuum  of  chemical  and  dyeing  opera- 
tions runs  into  the  waters  ;  the  drainage  of  lime  manure 
from  contiguous  lands  ;  and  the  passage  of  steam-vessels. 

The  soil  varies  considerably  throughout  the  parish. 
The  low  ground  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  rivers  is 
mostly  rich  alluvial  deposit,  consisting  chiefly  of  sand 
and  mud  of  great  depth,  resting  upon  a  subsoil  of  sand 
and  gravel.  In  the  higher  lands  near  the  Glasgow  and 
Carlisle  road,  and  by  the  village  of  Dalserf,  which 
stands  about  120  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  the 
soil  is  a  strong  heavy  clay,  lying  upon  a  compact  tena- 
cious subsoil  of  till.     In  some  places  are  strips  of  sandy 


D  A  L  S 


D  A  LT 


earth  ;  and  in  others,  especially  near  the  Avon,  the 
grounds  are  chiefly  loam.  The  southern  part  contains 
a  few  acres  of  moss ;  but,  with  this  exception,  the 
whole  parish  is  cultivated.  The  chief  crops  are  wheat 
and  oats,  the  soil  in  general  not  being  considered  suited 
to  green  crops,  though  in  some  parts  very  good  pota- 
toes, turnips,  carrots,  and  beet-root  are  produced.  The 
farmers  pay  great  attention  to  dairy-farming ;  the  cows 
are  chiefly  of  the  Ayrshire  breed,  and  about  500  are 
kept.  Much  competition  exists  in  the  improvement  of 
every  description  of  live  stock,  for  which  premiums 
have  been  awarded  to  some  of  the  farmers  by  the 
Highland  and  Agricultural  Society  of  Scotland.  The  cul- 
tivation of  orchards  also  forms  an  important  part  of  the 
rural  occupations,  the  parish  being  situated  in  about 
the  centre  of  the  great  range  of  fruit  plantations  in 
Clydesdale.  A  few  acres  of  fruit-trees  are  cultivated 
on  the  banks  of  the  Avon ;  but  the  chief  plantations 
are  near  the  Clyde,  among  the  acclivities  overlooking 
the  river,  which  are  too  abrupt  and  rugged  to  admit 
the  approach  of  the  plough.  Apples,  pears,  and  plums 
of  every  kind  grow  luxuriantly,  the  plum  range,  how- 
ever, only  extending  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles 
along  the  river.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £7704.  The  rocks  consist  of  sandstone  and  free- 
stone, of  the  latter  of  which  several  excellent  quarries 
are  wrought.  Large  quantities  of  coal,  also,  are  ob- 
tained in  every  direction,  the  district  forming  a  part 
of  the  great  coal  basin  stretching  from  near  Glasgow 
in  the  north,  for  a  distance  of  about  thirty  miles,  to 
the  water  of  Douglas  in  the  south.  The  produce  of  the 
collieries,  some  years  ago,  was  about  16,000  tons  an- 
nually ;  but  it  is  now  much  more  considerable. 

The  chief  mansions  are,  Dalserf,  Millburn,  and  Broom- 
hill,  all  of  which  are  respectable  structures,  standing  in 
the  midst  of  beautiful  scenery.  The  villages  are  consi- 
derable, and  together  contain  about  two-thirds  of  the 
population  of  the  parish.  Some  of  the  inhabitants  are 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  cotton,  the  weaving  of 
which  is  superintended  by  agents  employed  by  Glasgow 
firms  ;  and  many  females  are  occupied  in  the  manu- 
facture of  lace,  for  the  houses  at  Hamilton.  Among 
the  roads  that  intersect  the  parish  are,  one  from  Glas- 
gow to  Carlisle,  another  from  Glasgow  to  Lanark,  and 
a  third  from  Edinburgh  to  Ayr,  which  crosses  the  river 
Clyde  at  Garion  Bridge.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton  and  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr.  There  is  an  old  manse,  with  a 
glebe  worth  £37.  1 0.  per  annum  ;  the  stipend  is 
£264.  12.,  and  the  Duke  of  Hamilton  is  patron.  The 
church,  which  is  beautifully  though  somewhat  incon- 
veniently situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Clyde,  was  built 
in  1655,  and  repaired  in  1721  ;  it  contains  550  sittings. 
There  are  two  parochial  schools,  one  of  which  is  in  the 
village  of  Dalserf,  and  the  other  at  Larkhall  ;  the 
classics,  mathematics,  French,  with  all  the  usual  branches 
of  education,  are  taught,  and  the  master  of  the  Dalserf 
school  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden. 
A  good  subscription  library  has  been  established  at 
Larkhall,  and  another  at  Dalserf  with  120  volumes. 
The  chief  relics  of  antiquity  are  two  tumuli,  in  one  of 
which,  situated  at  Dalpatrick,  some  workmen  a  few 
years  ago  found  a  stone  coffin,  about  two  feet  and  a  half 
long,  and  a  foot  and  a  half  wide,  in  which  was  deposited 
an  urn  containing  a  human  jaw  with  the  teeth,  and 
270 


other  bones.  Another  urn  was  also  found,  of  very 
superior  materials  and  construction,  near  which  was  a 
lamp  of  baked  clay.  The  remains  of  mounds  with  for- 
tifications, and  cairns,  may  still  be  faintly  traced ;  and 
some  years  ago  an  earthen  pot  was  dug  up  at  Mill- 
heugh,  containing  coins  of  Elizabeth,  James  I.,  and 
Charles  I.  There  are  several  chalybeate  springs  in 
the  parish,  and  one  or  two  impregnated  with  sulphur. 

DALSHOLM,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  New  Kil- 
patrick,  county  of  Dumbarton  ;  containing  111  inha- 
bitants. 

DALSWINTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kirkma- 
hoe,  county  of  Dumfries,  4^  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from 
Dumfries ;  containing  94  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in 
the  western  part  of  the  parish,  and  though  a  small,  is  an 
improving  village,  of  recent  origin.  Here  stood  the 
ancient  castle  of  Dalswinton,  long  the  chief  seat  of  the 
family  of  Cumming,  and  on  the  site  of  which  an  elegant 
and  commodious  mansion  was  erected  by  the  late 
Patrick  Miller,  Esq.,  to  whose  taste  and  judgment  the 
neighbourhood  is  indebted  for  its  rapid  improvement. 
Mr.  Miller,  about  the  year  17S0,  introduced  the  culture 
of  the  Swedish  turnip.  It  was  first  sown  by  him  on  his 
estate  at  Dalswinton,  and  propagated  from  his  original 
plants  through  the  Lothians  and  elsewhere  ;  and  to  his 
example  is  owing  the  successful  cultivation  of  this  valu- 
able esculent  throughout  the  empire.  The  first  applica- 
tion of  the  steam-engine  to  the  purposes  of  navigation, 
was  made  by  Mr.  Miller  in  17SS,  on  a  piece  of  water  in 
his  own  grounds  here.  A  vessel  twenty-five  feet  long 
and  seven  broad,  with  two  wheels,  and  propelled  by  a 
small  engine  constructed  by  Mr.  Symington,  was  em- 
ployed for  the  purpose  ;  and  the  success  of  the  experi- 
ment led  to  the  well-known  exhibition,  under  the  same 
auspices,  of  a  full-sized  vessel,  on  the  Forth  and  Clyde 
canal,  in  the  following  year.  The  fine  estate  of  Dalswin- 
ton is  now  in  the  possession  of  Captain  Miller,  son  of 
this  gentleman,  and  formerly  the  representative  of  the 
county  in  parliament. 

DALTON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dumfries  ; 
containing  638  inhabitants,  of  whom  54  are  in  the  village, 
6  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Ecclesfechan.  The  name  is 
derived  from  the  Anglo-Saxon  term  Dal-ton,  or  Dal-dun, 
signifying  "  the  fort  in  the  dale,"  and  appears  to  have 
been  applied  on  account  of  a  fort  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  village  of  Dalton,  at  which  village 
baronial  courts  were  held  in  ancient  times.  The  parish 
is  seven  miles  long,  from  north  to  south,  and  three  broad, 
and  contains  6753  acres.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north- 
east by  the  river  Annan,  in  which  great  quantities 
of  salmon,  grilse,  sea-trout,  and  whiting  are  taken, 
though  they  are  far  from  being  so  numerous  as  formerly, 
in  consequence  of  stake-nets  having  been  placed  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  in  the  Sol  way  Frith.  The  surface 
presents  considerable  variety  of  features.  The  soil  to 
a  great  extent  is  alluvial,  consisting  chiefly  of  gravel  and 
sand,  spread  over  the  lowlands,  and  formed  into  ranges 
and  groups  of  little  hills.  In  the  higher  lands  the  soil 
is  mainly  composed  of  the  waste  and  debris  of  the  tran- 
sition rocks,  but  is  tolerably  fertile,  and  the  transported 
soil  on  the  banks  of  the  river  is  exceedingly  productive. 
The  whole  is  cultivated,  with  the  exception  of  600  acres, 
which  are  waste  or  pasture,  and  517  acres  underwood; 
all  kinds  of  crops  are  raised,  and  the  improved  system 
of  husbandry  is  adopted,  though  greatly  varied  by  differ- 


D  A  L  Z 


D  A  L  Z 


ent  farmers  in  the  rotation  of  crops.  The  cattle  are  the 
black  Galloway,  and  the  few  sheep  reared  consist  of  Che- 
viots and  Leicesters.  The  produce  of  the  soil  is  usually 
sent  to  Annan,  seven  miles  distant,  where  is  aweekly  mar- 
ket. The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4031. 
Among  the  mansions  is  that  of  Rammerscales,  which 
occupies  a  romantic  site  upon  a  hilly  range,  surrounded 
with  overhanging  wood,  and  commanding  the  whole 
vale  of  Annan.  The  chief  house,  however,  Dormont, 
built  in  1S23,  an  elegant  structure,  is  situated  on  the 
bank  of  the  Annan,  and  ornamented  with  beautiful 
grounds  and  plantations ;  and  another  seat,  also  on  the 
river,  and  like  the  preceding,  of  modern  erection,  is 
entitled  to  notice.  The  principal  village  is  Dalton,  the 
communication  of  which  with  the  nearest,  market-towns 
is  convenient,  not  only  by  the  parish  roads,  but  by  the 
great  turnpike-road  from  Carlisle  to  Portpatriek,  which 
passes  through  the  south  end  of  the  parish.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Lochma- 
ben  and  synod  of  Dumfries  ;  patron,  David  Sandeman, 
Esq.  The  stipend  is  £171.  12  ,  and  there  is  a  manse, 
with  a  glebe  of  ten  acres,  valued  at  £10  per  annum. 
The  church,  situated  in  the  village,  was  built  in  1/04, 
and  will  accommodate  300  persons.  There  is  a  paro- 
chial school,  at  which  French,  the  classics,  and  practical 
mathematics,  with  the  usual  branches  of  education,  are 
taught ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  and  about  £20  fees.  The  only  relics  of 
antiquity  are,  the  ruins  of  a  castle  at  Holmains,  formerly 
the  residence  of  the  Carruthers,  and  a  camp  of  circular 
form  on  the  Almagill  hills,  now  named  Range  Castle. 
The  latter  stands  upon  a  transition  rock  of  greywacke, 
and  is  a  beautiful  specimen  of  this  class  of  military 
works ;  its  diameter  is  102  yards,  and  the  fosse  which 
encompasses  it  is  nine  feet  deep,  and  twenty-seven  broad. 
The  late  Sir  Andrew  Halliday,  physician  to  the  Duke  of 
Clarence,  afterwards  William  IV.,  was  a  native  of  the 
parish. 

DALVAIT,   a  village,    in  the    parish  of  Bonhill, 
count}'  of  Dumbarton  ;  containing  71  inhabitants. 

DALZIEL,  a  parish,  in  the  Middle  ward  of  the  county 
of  Lanark,  <&\  miles  (E.N.  E.)  from  Hamilton;  con- 
taining, with  the  villages  of  Motherwell  and  Windmill- 
Hill,  1457  inhabitants.  The  parish  of  Dalziel  is  by 
some  writers  supposed  to  have  derived  that  appellation, 
signifying  "  the  white  meadow,"  from  the  peculiar 
appearance  of  the  lands  before  they  were  brought  into 
cultivation.  It  is  said  to  have  given  name  to  the  family 
upon  whom  the  barony  of  Dalziel  was  bestowed  by 
Kenneth  II.,  in  recompense  of  some  exploit  performed 
by  them  in  the  service  of  that  monarch.  In  1365,  Sir 
Robert  Dalziel  obtained  a  grant  of  the  barony  of  Selkirk 
from  David  Bruce,  whose  firm  adherent  he  had  been  in 
his  troubles,  and  to  whom  he  manifested  the  truest 
loyalty  during  the  king's  captivity  in  England  ;  but  the 
whole  estates  were  subsequently  forfeited  in  that  reign, 
and  conferred  upon  the  Sandiland  family.  By  marriage, 
however,  with  one  of  the  coheiresses,  the  barony  of 
Dalziel  returned  into  the  possession  of  the  family,  then 
represented  by  the  grandson  of  the  original  proprietor, 
Sir  Robert  Dalziel.  This  personage  was  created  Lord 
Dalziel  by  Charles  I.,  and  subsequently  bought  the 
whole  of  the  estate  ;  but,  having  afterwards  purchased 
the  lands  of  Carnwath  from  James,  Earl  of  Buchan,  and 
been  created,  in  1639,  Earl  of  Carnwath,  he  sold  this 
271 


estate  to  James  Hamilton,  Esq.,  whose  descendant  is  the 
present  proprietor. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  the 
river  Calder,  and  on  the  south-west  by  the  river  Clyde; 
it  is  about  four  miles  in  length,  and  three  in  breadth, 
comprising  2283  Scottish  acres,  of  which  about  one- 
tenth  is  pasture,  410  acres  woodland  and  plantations, 
and  the  remainder  arable.  The  surface  rises  gradually 
from  the  Clyde  and  the  Calder  towards  the  centre, 
where  it  forms  a  flat  ridge,  averaging  200  feet  in  eleva- 
tion above  the  sea  ;  and  it  is  diversified  with  several 
glens  of  romantic  appearance,  of  which  one,  called  Dal- 
ziel glen,  is  about  two  miles  in  length.  The  river  Clyde 
is  subject  to  great  inundations,  to  prevent  which  an  em- 
bankment has  been  constructed  ;  the  Calder,  which  is 
here  about  sixty  feet  in  breadth,  takes  its  rise  in  the 
neighbouring  parish  of  Shotts,  and  falls  into  the  Clyde 
near  the  extremity  of  this  parish.  The  Dalziel  burn  has 
its  source  in  the  parish  of  Cambusnethan,  and,  flowing 
through  the  glen  of  Dalziel,  falls  into  the  Clyde.  The 
soil  is  generally  a  stiff  clay,  but  on  the  banks  of  the 
rivers  a  rich  loam  ;  the  crops  are,  oats,  wheat,  beans,  and 
peas.  There  are  several  large  dairy-farms  ;  the  cows 
are  chiefly  of  the  Ayrshire  breed,  and  a  few  horses  and 
sheep  are  reared.  On  the  banks  of  the  Clyde  are  several 
orchards,  the  principal  of  which  produces  on  an  average 
about  £600  per  annum  ;  an  improved  method  of  pruning 
has  been  introduced  with  success,  and  great  attention  is 
paid  to  the  cultivation  of  the  trees.  The  plantations 
consist  of  fir,  larch,  oak,  ash,  elm,  lime,  and  plane;  a 
fine  avenue  nearly  a  mile  in  length  extends  along  the 
banks  of  the  Clyde,  and  near  the  mansion-house  of 
Dalziel  is  a  venerable  oak,  measuring  twenty-one  feet  in 
girth  at  a  distance  of  nearly  five  feet  from  the  ground. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4983. 

The  substratum  of  the  lands  is  principally  clay-slate, 
interspersed  with  freestone  of  various  quality,  among 
which  is  found  a  seam  of  flagstone.  A  quarry  of  hard- 
grained  freestone  has  been  opened  near  Windmill- 
Hill,  which  is  wrought  into  mantel-pieces,  and  is  sus- 
ceptible of  a  high  polish  ;  and  near  the  village  of  Craig- 
neuk  is  a  valuable  quary  of  flagstone,  of  a  reddish  colour, 
and  varying  from  one-quarter  of  an  inch  to  five  inches 
in  thickness.  Coal  abounds  in  the  parish,  which  is 
situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  coal  district  of  the 
Clyde;  the  only  mine  in  operation  is  near  Coursington. 
Dalziel  House,  erected  in  1649,  by  an  ancestor  of  the 
present  proprietor,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Dalziel  burn,  and  in  the  most  picturesque 
part  of  the  romantic  glen  to  which  that  stream  gives 
name.  The  building  has  all  the  character  of  an  ancient 
baronial  residence,  and  attached  to  it  is  a  tower  about 
fifty  feet  high,  the  walls  of  which  are  eight  feet  thick  ; 
the  several  apartments  are  commodious,  and  in  the 
dining-room  are  numerous  family  portraits,  among 
which  are  those  of  Sir  John  Hamilton,  of  Orbiston,  and 
Lord  Westhall,  one  of  the  senators  of  the  Callege  of 
Justice.  There  is  a  small  foundry  for  the  manufacture 
of  spades,  in  which  about  fifteen  persons  are  employed. 
Means  of  communication  with  the  neighbouring  mar- 
ket-towns are  afforded  by  good  roads,  among  which  is 
one  from  Glasgow  to  Lanark  ;  and  the  Wishaw  and 
Coltness  railway  passes  for  nearly  three  miles  through 
the  parish,  and  greatly  facilitates  the  conveyance  of  the 
produce. 


DARL 


D  A  V  I 


The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton,  and 
synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage  of 
J.  G.  C.  Hamilton,  Esq.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£155.  11.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £50  per 
annum.  The  church,  dedicated  to  St.  Patrick,  was  in 
the  twelfth  century  granted,  together  with  its  revenues, 
to  the  abbey  of  Paisley,  and  subsequently  to  the  dean 
and  chapter  of  Glasgow,  in  whose  possession  it  con- 
tinued to  the  Reformation.  The  ancient  building,  which 
was  of  the  same  date  as  the  cathedral  of  Glasgow,  was 
taken  down  about  ten  years  after  the  erection  of  the  pre- 
sent church,  which  was  built  in  17S9,  and  is  a  neat  cru- 
ciform structure.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church 
have  a  place  of  worship.  The  parochial  school  affords  a 
good  education  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with 
£18  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  The  western  branch 
of  the  Roman  Watling-street  entered  this  parish  at 
Meadowhead,  and  passed  through  it  in  a  direction  from 
east  to  west.  Till  within  the  last  twenty  years  a  consi- 
derable portion  of  it  remained,  in  a  high  state  of  preser- 
vation; but  it  has  been  obliterated  by  the  construction 
of  the  modern  road  from  Glasgow  to  Lanark,  and  no 
trace  of  it  can  be  at  present  discerned.  Near  the  north- 
west boundary  of  the  parish  is  a  very  ancient  bridge 
over  the  river  Calder,  still  called  the  Roman  bridge ; 
it  consists  of  a  single  arch  of  great  height,  is  about 
twelve  feet  in  breadth,  and  without  parapets.  This 
bridge  is  supposed  to  have  formed  a  continuation  of  the 
Roman  road  into  the  parish  of  Bothwell.  Close  to  it- 
was  a  Roman  camp,  which  has  for  many  years  been  des- 
troyed ;  and  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  on  the 
steep  bank  of  the  river  Clyde,  are  the  remains  of  another, 
of  which  portions  of  the  ancient  fosses  may  still  be 
traced.  On  the  site  of  this  camp,  about  a  century  since, 
the  proprietor  erected  a  summer-house,  round  which 
he  formed  terrace- walks  and  plantations,  and  from  the 
summit  of  which  a  fine  panoramic  view  of  the  surround- 
ing country  is  obtained,  combining  many  of  the  most 
interesting  features  of  Scottish  scenery.  Near  the  site 
of  Nisbet  House,  is  one  of  the  stones  at  which  the  ancient 
barons  dispensed  justice  to  their  vassals;  it  is  of  hepta- 
gonal  form,  and  one  of  the  faces  is  ornamented  with  the 
representation  of  a  sword.  There  were  formerly  two 
others  in  the  parish,  near  the  site  of  the  Roman  road ; 
they  have  both  been  removed. 

DAMHEAD,  or  Jametson,  Dumbarton.  —  See 
Jametson. 

DAMHEAD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Arngask, 
counties  of  Fife,  Kinross,  and  Perth,  5  miles  (S.  W.) 
from  Abernethy  ;  containing  138  inhabitants,  of  whom 
56  are  in  the  Fifeshire,  24  in  the  Kinross-shire,  and  58 
in  the  Perthshire,  portion.  This  village  is  situated  in 
the  central  part  of  the  parish,  and  in  the  vale  through 
which  the  great  north  road  passes,  leading  from  Edin- 
burgh to  Aberdeen,  by  way  of  Perth.  A  sub-post-office 
was  established  here  in  1838,  in  connexion  with  the 
post-offices  of  Kinross  and  Bridge-of-Earn. 

DANESHALT,  county  Fife.— See  Dunshelt. 

DARGIE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Liff,  county 
of  Perth,  3  miles  (W.)  from  Dundee  ;  containing  32 
inhabitants.  It  is  in  that  portion  of  the  parish  which 
formed  the  ancient  parish  of  Invergowrie,  now  united, 
with  Benvie,  to  Liff;  and  is  about  a  mile  west-by-south 
of  Invergowrie  church. 

DARLINGSHAUGH,   a  village,  in  the  late  quoad 
272 


sacra  parish  of  Ladhope,  parish  of  Melrose,  county 
of  Roxburgh,  4  miles  (W.)  from  Melrose;  containing 
1116  inhabitants.  This  village  is  beautifully  situated  on 
the  Gala  water,  and,  though  within  the  parish  of  Mel- 
rose, may  be  regarded  as  an  appendage  to  Galashiels, 
in  the  manufactures  of  which  a  considerable  number  of 
the  population  is  employed.  A  comfortable  school-house 
has  been  built  by  the  heritors. 

DARNICK,  a  village,  in  the  parish  and  district  of 
Melrose,  county  of  Roxburgh,  1  mile  from  Melrose; 
containing  2S0  inhabitants.  It  is  pleasantly  seated  in 
the  vale  of  Melrose,  and  the  population  is  chiefly  em- 
ployed in  agriculture.  A  school-house  has  been  built  by 
the  heritors  for  the  instruction  of  the  poorer  children. 

DARVEL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Loudoun,  dis- 
trict of  Cunninghame,  county  of  Ayr,  1^  mile  (E.) 
from  Newmilns  ;  containing  1362  inhabitants.  This  is 
a  considerable  place,  and  it  would  seem  that  several 
lands  here  formerly  belonged  to  the  Knights  Templars, 
as  many  of  them  still  bear  the  name  of  Temple,  and  do 
not  hold  of  any  superior,  not  even  of  the  crown.  A 
large  part  of  the  population  is  engaged  in  hand-loom 
weaving,  the  children  assisting  in  the  minor  branches 
of  the  manufacture.  The  Reformed  Presbyterians  have 
a  place  of  worship ;  and  there  is  a  school  partly  sup- 
ported by  the  Marchioness  of  Hastings,  and  of  which 
the  master  is  allowed  a  dwelling-house  and  garden. 
Near  the  village  is  a  place  called  Glen  Chapel,  but  there 
remains  no  vestige  of  a  religious  edifice  ;  and  in  the 
vicinity  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  castle. 

DAVID,  ST.,  a  village  and  sea-port,  in  the  parish  of 
Dalgety,  district  of  Dunfermline,  county  of  Fife, 
1  mile  (E.  N.  E.)  from  North  Queensferry  ;  containing 
155  inhabitants.  This  little  sea-port,  which  is  situated 
on  the  Frith  of  Forth,  owes  its  origin  to  the  Fordel 
collieries,  in  the  parish,  belonging  to  Admiral  Sir  P.  H. 
Durham,  G.C.B.,  by  whom  great  improvements  have 
been  made  in  it,  for  the  more  expeditious  and  convenient 
shipping  of  the  coal.  The  harbour,  which,  from  what 
remains  of  the  original  works,  seems  to  have  been  badly 
constructed,  has  been  improved  by  the  proprietor  at  an 
expense  of  £2000,  and  now  affords  safe  anchorage  to 
ships  of  500  tons'  burthen,  which  may  load  and  deliver 
their  cargoes  on  the  beach.  There  are  also  extensive 
salt-works  :  the  salt  water,  at  flood-tides,  is  forced  by  a 
steam-engine  into  a  capacious  reservoir,  whence,  after 
depositing  its  residuum  of  sand,  it  is  conveyed  in  a 
purified  state  into  large  pans,  producing  annually  about 
30,000  bushels  of  salt. 

DAVID,  ST.,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Maderty, 
county  of  Perth  ;   containing  65  inhabitants. 

DAVIDSONS-MAINS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Cramond,  county  of  Edinburgh,  2|  miles  (N.  N.  W.) 
from  Edinburgh ;  containing  470  inhabitants.  This 
place,  also  called  Muttonhole,  is  situated  on  the  road 
from  Edinburgh  to  Cramond,  and  in  its  vicinity  is 
Muirhouse,  the  seat  of  Dr.  Davidson,  who  allows  the 
teacher  of  a  school  a  salary  often  guineas  per  annum. 

DAVIOT,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Garioch, 
county  of  Aberdeen,  4  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Old  Mel- 
drum  ;  containing  643  inhabitants.  This  parish  is  sup- 
posed to  derive  its  name  from  the  Gaelic  term  dabhoch, 
which  signifies  a  piece  of  land  sufficient  for  the  pasture 
of  a  certain  number  of  cows.  Its  length  is  about  three 
miles,  and  the   average  breadth  two  ;  but  it  was  aug- 


DAVI 


DA  VI 


merited  ecclesiastically  by  act  of  assembly  at  the  close 
of  the  17th  century,  by  the  annexation  of  parts  of  the 
parishes  of  Fyvie  and  Chapel  of  Garioch,  and,  includ- 
ing this  addition,  it  covers  about  eight  and  a  half  square 
miles.  The  civil  parish  comprises  5250  acres,  of  which 
the  whole  is  in  tillage,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  acres 
in  wood,  and  a  little  moss.  The  surface  is  agreeably 
diversified  by  a  ridge  of  gentle  undulations,  passing 
through  the  centre,  from  north  to  south,  and  accom- 
panied on  each  side  by  a  ridge  of  inferior  elevation, 
also  slightly  undulated.  The  soil  exhibits  several  varie- 
ties ;  that  on  the  higher  grounds  is  thin  and  gravelly, 
and  on  the  descent  a  rich  loamy  earth  rests  on  a  clayey 
subsoil,  while  the  lower  parts  are  to  a  considerable  ex- 
tent covered  with  a  shallow  peaty  soil,  incumbent  on  a 
blueish  clay.  Every  sort  of  grain,  with  the  exception  of 
wheat,  is  raised,  of  good  quality,  but  the  soil  is  best 
adapted  to  oats,  and  several  kinds  are  largely  cultivated, 
especially  those  denominated  Scotch  barley  and  the 
early  Angus ;  and  green  crops  of  all  descriptions  grow 
luxuriantly.  Very  few  sheep  are  reared,  but  much 
attention  is  paid  to  cattle,  in  consequence  of  the  facili- 
ties afforded  by  steam  navigation  for  sending  them  to 
the  London  market ;  the  breed  was  formerly  the  Aber- 
deenshire, but  a  great  improvement  has  been  made 
within  these  few  years,  by  crossing  these  with  the 
short-horned.  The  seven  years'  rotation  is  generally 
practised,  and  modern  usages  of  husbandry  have  been 
introduced ;  much  waste  land  has  been  drained  and 
cultivated,  and  there  is  now  very  little  remaining.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3250. 

The  substrata  comprise  whinstone  and  inferior  granite, 
and  ironstone  exists  in  considerable  quantities,  but  the 
distance  from  coal-mines  renders  the  working  of  it  im- 
practicable. The  plantations  consist  chiefly  of  Scotch 
fir  and  larch,  which,  however,  rarely  attain  to  a  great 
size,  manifesting  symptoms  of  decay  at  about  the  age  of 
forty  years.  Beech,  elm,  and  ash  are  in  some  parts  in- 
terspersed with  the  fir ;  and  trees  of  this  description 
appear  to  be  better  suited  to  the  soil,  and  grow  in  some 
places  in  a  very  thriving  manner,  especially  around  the 
mansion  of  Glack,  besides  which  residence  there  is  a 
handsome  mansion  in  the  parish  on  the  estate  of  Fin- 
gask,  built  in  1834.  The  inhabitants  are  engaged  in 
husbandry,  with  the  exception  of  a  very  small  number 
who  work  at  a  manufactory  for  carding  and  spinning 
wool,  which  was  some  time  since  established  here  by  an 
enterprising  individual  to  whom  the  board  for  the  en- 
couragement of  manufactures  granted  a  premium  for 
his  exertions.  There  is  considerable  facility  of  commu- 
'nication  :  a  road  runs  past  the  church  from  north  to 
south,  and  in  the  latter  direction  forms  two  branches, 
the  one  leading  to  Old  Meldrum,  and  the  other  to  In- 
verury  five  miles  distant.  A  turnpike-road,  also,  tra- 
versing the  east  and  north  sides  of  the  parish,  was 
formed  in  1S35,  to  connect  the  east  and  west  branches 
of  the  great  north  road  from  Aberdeen  to  Inverness, 
and  runs  from  Old  Meldrum  to  Sheeiagreen,  in  the 
parish  of  Culsamond ;  and  another  road  was  finished 
in  1S39,  on  which  a  daily  coach  travels  between 
Aberdeen  and  Huntly.  The  parish  is  in  the  pres- 
bytery of  Garioch  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in 
the  patronage  of  the  Crown  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£159,  of  which  about  a  sixth  is  received  from  the  ex- 
chequer, with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £12  per 
Vol.  I.— 2/3 


annum.  The  parish  was  formerly  in  the  diocese  of 
Aberdeen,  and  is  said  to  have  been  given  by  Malcolm 
Canmore  to  the  bishop  ;  the  present  church  was  built  in 
1798,  and  accommodates  400  persons.  The  parochial 
school  affords  instruction  in  the  classics,  mathematics, 
and  book-keeping,  in  addition  to  the  elementary  branches; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  a  house,  and  £20 
fees  ;  he  also  shares  in  the  Dick  bequest.  The  prin- 
cipal relic  of  antiquity  is  a  Druidical  temple  in  fine 
preservation,  on  the  lands  of  Mounie,  near  the  church. 
A  battle-axe  was  dug  up  in  1833,  supposed  to  have  been 
used  at  the  battle  of  Harlaw,  fought  in  1411,  in  the 
adjoining  parish  of  Garioch  ;  and  some  years  since,  a 
silver  coin  of  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  a  little  larger  than 
a  shilling,  was  found  in  a  garden,  on  the  site  of  the  old 
manse. 

DAVIOT  and  DUNLICHTY,  a  parish,  chiefly  in 
the  county  of  Inverness,  but  partly  in  that  of  Nairn, 
5  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Inverness;  containing  1681  inha- 
bitants. These  two  ancient  parishes  were  united  about 
the  year  1618  :  the  former  received  its  appellation,  as 
is  supposed,  from  David,  Earl  of  Crawfurd,  who  built 
a  fort  here  ;  and  the  latter,  which  is  by  far  the  larger, 
derives  its  name  from  the  term  dun-le-catti,  or  "  the  hill 
of  the  Catti,"  which  bisects  the  territory  formerly  held 
by  the  Catti,  whose  descendants  now  possess  nearly 
the  whole  lands.  At  Tordarroch,  in  the  parish  of  Dun- 
lichty,  the  Earl  of  Moray  caused  200  men  of  the  clan 
Chattan  to  be  hanged  in  a  barn  in  one  day,  about  the 
year  1532,  for  various  acts  of  spoliation  committed  in 
his  territory.  They  had  been  captured  by  stratagem, 
the  earl  having  assembled  them  under  pretence  of  hold- 
ing a  feudal  court  ;  and  to  each,  while  being  led  to  the 
gallows,  pardon  was  offered,  upon  condition  of  their 
betraying  Hector  Mackintosh,  under  whose  command 
they  had  acted.  The  greater  part  of  the  moor  where 
the  celebrated  and  decisive  battle  of  Culloden  was 
fought  on  the  1 6th  of  April,  1746,  is  situated  in  this 
parish,  as  well  as  the  spot  on  which  the  prince  stood 
during  the  engagement ;  and  the  prince  afterwards,  with 
a  few  friends,  crossed  the  river  Nairn  above  the  mains 
of  Daviot,  and,  passing  by  Tordarroch,  advanced  to 
Gorthleck,  in  Stratherrick. 

The  parish,  the  boundary  line  of  which  is  very  irre- 
gular, stretches  along  each  side  of  the  river  Nairn,  from 
north-east  to  south-west,  for  about  twenty-five  miles, 
and  varies  in  breadth  from  one  and  a  half  to  four  or  five 
miles  ;  it  comprises  about  4000  acres  under  cultivation, 
1500  natural  pasture,  830  of  natural  wood,  and  above 
2-270  of  plantations.  The  surface  is  altogether  wild  and 
dreary,  and  consists  principally  of  the  valley  of  Strath- 
nairn,  extending  from  Wester  Aberchalder  on  the  south- 
west, to  the  bridge  of  Daviot  on  the  Highland  road, 
where  it  contracts  itself  almost  to  a  point,  and  termi- 
nates in  a  steep  narrow  glen.  The  hills  on  the  south- 
eastern boundary  are  a  continued  chain,  forming  the 
northern  range  of  the  Munadh-Leagh  mountains,  and 
attain  an  elevation  of  from  1000  to  2000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  boundary  on  the  west  and  north- 
west consists  of  an  abrupt  ridge  1500  feet  high,  contain- 
ing a  series  of  lakes,  some  of  them  celebrated  for  their 
delicious  trout  ;  and  on  the  north  and  north-eastern 
limit  is  a  sandstone  ridge  called  Drimmashie  or  Drum- 
mossie  moor,  at  the  eastern  end  of  which  the  battle  of 
Culloden  was  fought.     The  scenery  is  generally  unin- 

2N 


DEAN 


DEAN 


terestiug,  though  occasionally  romantic  ;  the  mountains 
are  either  bare  rock,  or  covered  with  coarse  grass,  and 
the  lower  grounds  are  to  a  considerable  extent  mossy 
tracts,  shaded  by  sombre  woods  and  plantations.  The 
stream  of  the  Nairn,  however,  introduces  some  variety, 
and,  in  its  course  to  the  town  of  Nairn,  where  it  falls 
into  the  Moray  Frith,  after  a  course  of  thirty-six  miles 
from  its  source  at.  Cairn- Gregor,  in  the  south-west  part 
of  Dunlichty,  renders  the  aspect  of  the  district  in  many 
places  agreeable  and  interesting. 

The  soil  exhibits  several  varieties,  being  in  some 
parts  light  and  sandy,  in  others  wet  and  spongy,  with  a 
clayey  bottom  ;  and  frequently  black  mossy  earth  is 
seen,  with  different  admixtures  and  modifications.  The 
crops  which  succeed  best  are  oats  and  barley  ;  but  since 
the  recent  improvements  in  husbandry  by  the  leading 
proprietors,  comprising  draining,  liming,  inclosing,  and 
the  rotation  system  of  cropping,  wheat  of  good  quality 
has  been  grown,  and  the  agricultural  character  of  the 
parish  has  attained  a  respectable  footing.  Many  earthen 
embankments,  also,  have  been  raised  along  the  river, 
as  a  security  against  floods,  which  have  sometimes  done 
much  damage  to  the  lands.  The  rocks  consist  chiefly 
of  gneiss,  in  the  hills  bounding  the  valley ;  and  large 
blocks  of  white  granite,  conglomerate,  red  and  grey 
granite,  and  limestone  are  found,  though  the  last  has 
not  been  wrought.  A  bed  of  marl,  which  has  been  suc- 
cessfully used  as  manure,  was  lately  discovered  on  the 
south  bank  of  Loch  Bunachton,  about  seven  feet  below 
the  surface,  and  having  a  depth  of  from  five  to  six  feet. 
The  old  plantations  are  of  common  Scotch  fir,  with  a 
few  larches,  and  cover  1020  acres  ;  there  are  others 
formed  of  Scotch  fir,  larch,  ash,  oak,  and  beech.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5288.  The  seats 
are,  Daviot,  a  commodious  modern  structure ;  the 
house  of  Farr,  which  has  lately  received  some  elegant 
additions  ;  and  Aberarder,  also  a  modern  mansion. 
The  road  from  Edinburgh  to  Inverness  passes  through 
the  parish,  and  with  the  latter  town  the  inhabitants 
carry  on  their  chief  traffic.  The  parish  is  in  the  pres- 
bytery of  Inverness  and  synod  of  Moray,  and  in  the 
patronage  of  the  Crown  and  Earl  Cawdor,  alternately  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £187,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £  1 0  per  annum.  There  are  two  churches, 
about  seven  miles  distant  from  each  other,  in  which 
public  worship  is  usually  performed  alternately.  The 
church  at  Daviot  is  about  four  miles  from  the  eastern, 
and  that  at  Dunlichty  twelve  miles  from  the  western, 
boundary  ;  the  former,  with  seats  for  500  persons,  was 
built  in  1826,  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £1000  ;  and  the  latter, 
containing  seats  for  300  persons,  was  built  in  1759,  and 
repaired  in  1826.  There  are  also  an  episcopal  chapel, 
and  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church. 
A  parochial  school  is  situated  in  each  of  the  districts, 
and  affords  instruction  in  the  ordinary  branches  ;  the 
salary  of  each  master  is  £25,  with  £11  and  £9  fees, 
respectively.  The  poor  receive  the  interest  of  £400, 
left  by  William  Macgillivray  in  1833.  Near  the  man- 
sion of  Daviot,  is  the  ruin  of  a  seat  which  appears  to 
have  been  originally  of  great  strength  ;  and  there  are  in 
several  places  remains  of  Druidical  temples. 

DEAN,  formerly  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  partly  in  the 
parish   of  Corstorphine,    but    chiefly  in  that  of  St. 
Cuthbert,  city  and  county  of  Edinburgh  ;   contain- 
ing 2262  inhabitants,  of  whom  108  are  in  Corstorphine, 
274 


and  2154  in  St.  Cuthbert's.  This  place,  now  somewhat 
decayed,  is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Water  of 
Leith,  and  forms  a  western  suburb  of  the  city  of  Edin- 
burgh, from  which  it  is  distant  about  three-quarters  of  a 
mile.  The  village  is  on  the  Edinburgh  and  Queensferry 
road,  on  both  sides  of  which  it  once  stood.  In  its  vici- 
nity is  Dean  bridge,  a  superb  and  stupendous  structure, 
thrown  over  the  ravine  of  the  Water  of  Leith,  and  hav- 
ing four  arches,  each  ninety  feet  in  span,  and  of  corre- 
sponding height  from  the  stream  ;  it  was  completed  in 
1831,  and  from  it  is  presented  one  of  the  finest  views 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  city.  Dean  House  here, 
is  a  venerable  mansion  surrounded  with  fine  old  trees, 
which  failed  not  to  attract  the  notice  of  Sir  Walter 
Scott.  The  parish  was  under  the  presbytery  of  Edin- 
burgh and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  church, 
erected  in  1836,  is  in  the  later  English  style,  and  con- 
tains 1030  sittings,  of  which  thirty  are  free;  the  stipend 
of  the  minister  is  £80,  arising  from  seat-rents  and  col- 
lections. There  is  an  episcopal  chapel,  and  a  place  of  wor- 
ship has  been  erected  for  members  of  the  Free  Church. 

DEAN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Wilton,  district 
of  Hawick,  county  of  Roxburgh,  1  mile  (W.)  from 
Hawick;  containing  129  inhabitants.  It  is  seated  in 
the  southern  part  of  the  parish,  and  on  a  small  stream, 
a  tributary  to  the  Teviot,  which  latter  bounds  the  parish 
on  the  south-east. 

DEANBURNHAUGH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Roberton,  county  of  Roxburgh,  S  miles  (W.  by  S.) 
from  Hawick  ;  containing  86  inhabitants.  This  place 
is  of  very  recent  origin ;  it  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
road  from  Eskdalemuir  to  Hawick,  and  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Borthwick  water.  The  surrounding  scenery 
is  agreeably  diversified. 

DEANSTON,  formerly  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Kilmadock,  county  of  Perth  ;  including  the 
hamlet  of  Murdochston,  and  containing  1050  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  982  are  in  the  village  of  Deanston,  1  mile 
(W.)  from  Doune.  This  place  appears  to  have  ori- 
ginated in  the  establishment  of  some  cotton-works  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  Teith,  for  which  that  copious  and 
powerful  stream  afforded  ample  advantages,  and  in  the 
consequent  erection  of  a  spacious  village  for  the  resi- 
dence of  the  men  employed  in  the  concern.  The  village, 
which  consists  of  one  wide  street,  running  parallel  to 
the  river,  is  regularly  built ;  the  houses  are  two  stories 
high,  with  attics,  and  are  roofed  with  slate,  and 
whitewashed,  having  a  cleanly  and  cheerful  aspect,  and 
attached  to  each  of  them  is  a  neat  garden.  The  works 
were  established  about  the  year  17S6,  by  Messrs. 
Buchanan,  of  Carston,  brothers,  the  eldest  of  whom 
was  the  first  agent  of  Sir  Richard  Arkwright  in  Glasgow 
for  the  sale  of  cotton-twist ;  and  under  his  superintend- 
ence the  works  soon  rose  into  importance  for  the  spin- 
ning of  yarn,  equal  to  the  finest  which  has  since  been 
produced  at  Manchester.  In  1793,  the  works  became 
the  property  of  Mr.  Flounders,  of  the  county  of  York, 
and  subsequently  of  James  Finlay  and  Co.,  of  Glasgow, 
under  whom  they  were  remodelled  by  Mr.  Smith,  a 
nephew  of  Mr.  Buchanan;  and  in  1S22,  the  company 
made  arrangements  with  the  neighbouring  proprietors, 
and  obtained  an  additional  quantity  of  water-power. 
The  works  are  at  present  driven  by  four  water-wheels,  of 
eighty-horse  power  each,  and  afford  employment  to 
800  persons ;  the  whole  of  the  establishment  is  lighted 


DEER 


DEER 


with  gas,  and  thoroughly  ventilated.  Attached  is  a 
schoolroom,  erected  by  the  company,  who  keep  a  mas- 
ter to  instruct  the  children  employed  in  the  factory, 
who  attend  the  school  for  three  hours  daily. 

DEE,  BRIDGE  OF,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Bal- 
maghie,  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  3  miles  (S.  W.) 
from  Castle-Douglas  ;  containing  243  inhabitants.  It 
derives  its  name  from  a  bridge  over  the  river  Dee, 
which  bounds  the  parish  on  the  east,  and  separates  it 
from  the  parish  of  Kelton.  The  lands  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood are  the  property  of  the  Society  for  the  Propa- 
gation of  Christian  Knowledge. 

DEER,  NEW,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Deer, 
county  of  Aberdeen,  6  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from  Cumines- 
town  ;  containing,  with  the  village  of  Kirktown  of  New 
Deer,  3756  inhabitants.  This  parish  originally  formed 
a  part  of  Old  Deer,  and  was  separated  from  it  in  the 
early  part  of  the  seventeenth  century ;  it  was  at  first 
termed  Auchreddy,  from  the  land  on  which  the  church 
is  built,  and  this  name  is  engraved  on  the  communion- 
plate,  with  the  date  1694.  The  remains  of  castles  and 
various  tumuli,  prove  that  it  was  once  the  scene  of 
military  operations.  Edward,  brother  to  Robert  Bruce, 
is  said  to  have  encamped  after  the  battle  of  Inverury  on 
a  large  moor  about  a  mile  to  the  west  of  the  village,  and 
thence  to  have  gone,  in  pursuit  of  the  Cumyns,  to 
Aikey-Brae,  near  Old  Deer,  on  which  spot  a  fair  has 
long  been  kept  in  commemoration  of  a  battle  fought 
between  them.  The  old  castle  of  Fedderate,  at  present 
in  ruins,  is  believed  to  have  been  the  retreat  of  some 
followers  of  James  II.  who,  being  driven  from  Fyvie 
Castle,  which  they  had  taken  after  the  battle  of  Killie- 
crankie,  sought  a  refuge  in  this  fortress,  from  which, 
however,  they  were  expelled  by  King  William's  troops. 

The  parish,  which  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  county, 
is  upwards  of  fourteen  miles  long,  and  eight  and  a  half 
broad,  and  contains  29,020  acres.  With  the  exception 
of  Mormond  hill,  it  is  the  highest  ground  in  Buchan, 
its  elevation  being  from  200  to  300  feet  above  the  sea. 
On  a  fine  day,  the  spire  of  Peterhead  church,  about 
eighteen  miles  to  the  east,  may  be  seen  from  the  hill  of 
Culsh  ;  and  westward,  Bennachie,  nearly  twenty-eight 
miles  distant,  the  Foudland  hills,  the  hills  near  Banff  and 
Cullen,  and  Benrinnes,  in  the  county  of  Banff,  are  dis- 
tinctly visible.  The  surface  is  in  general  fiat,  and  the 
elevation  of  the  land  renders  the  climate  cold,  the  ope- 
rations of  husbandry  being  frequently  delayed  by  the 
snow  remaining  on  the  ground.  Three  branch  streams 
rise  in  the  northern  quarter  of  the  parish,  one  of  which 
flows  eastward,  passing  Old  Deer,  and  falling  into  the 
river  Ugie  ;  another,  running  in  a  westerly  direction, 
forms  a  confluence  with  a  stream  which  falls  into  the 
Doveran,  and  the  third,  flowing  towards  the  south- 
west, joins  the  Ythan,  near  Gight.  The  soil  is  light, 
and  rests  partly  upon  a  subsoil  of  moss  on  coarse  clay, 
in  other  places  on  granite,  but  chiefly  on  a  bed  of  from 
six  inches  to  two  feet  thick,  altogether  rocky  and  im- 
pervious, and  holding  the  water  that  falls  upon  the  land 
till  evaporated  by  the  heat  of  the  sun.  Almost  the 
whole  of  the  parish  is  arable,  and  the  chief  grain  culti- 
vated is  oats ;  potatoes  and  bay  are  grown  in  large 
quantities,  as  are  also  turnips.  The  number  of  acres  un- 
der tillage  is  IS, 183  ;  1957  are  in  pasture,  3587  heath, 
4164  moss  and  moor,  and  S25  under  wood.  The  system 
of  cultivation  differs  in  the  several  parts  of  the  parish, 
275 


a  five  years'  rotation  of  crops  being  adopted  in  some 
places,  and  in  others  a  seven  years'  course  ;  the  Buchan 
breed  of  cows  is  much  esteemed,  especially  when  crossed 
by  the  Teeswater.  Considerable  improvements  have 
been  made  by  several  of  the  large  farmers,  chiefly  in 
reclaiming  extensive  tracts  of  wet  ground  ;  and  the 
farm-houses,  though  still  in  some  parts  indifferent,  are 
on  a  much  better  footing  than  formerly.  The  rocks 
consist  of  coarse  granite  and  inferior  limestone,  which 
latter  the  farmers  excavate  for  themselves,  and  burn  for 
the  purposes  of  building  or  agriculture.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £10,905. 

The  village,  which  is  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  hill, 
contains  upwards  of  100  houses  ;  and  seven  fairs  are  held 
in  it,  viz.,  one  in  Jan.,  one  in  April,  a  feeing  market  in 
May,  markets  in  June,  August,  and  October,  and  a  fee- 
ing market  in  November,  at  all  of  which  cattle,  sheep, 
horses,  and  country  produce  are  sold ;  but  the  grain 
is  chiefly  sent  to  Peterhead,  Fraserburgh,  and  Banff. 
There  is  a  good  road  to  Ellon,  thirteen  miles  distant, 
and  the  turnpike-road  from  Peterhead  to  Banff  crosses 
the  parish.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to 
the  presbytery  of  Deer  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  patron, 
the  Crown.  The  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £219,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The 
old  church  was  built  in  1622,  and  an  aisle  was  added  to 
it  in  1773.  In  1838,  however,  another  church  was 
erected,  at  a  cost  of  about  £3000  ;  it  is  a  neat  edifice  in 
the  later  English  style,  and  affords  accommodation  for 
1600  persons.  At  Savock  is  a  chapel  of  ease  built  in 
1834,  at  a  cost  of  £S19,  and  which  contains  700  sit- 
tings. The  parish  also  contains  three  meeting-houses 
belonging  to  the  United  Secession,  and  one  just 
erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church.  There  are 
three  parochial  schools,  situated  respectively  at  Kirk- 
town, Savock,  and  Whitehill,  in  which  are  taught  the 
classics,  mathematics,  and  all  the  usual  branches  of 
education ;  the  salary  of  each  master  is  £24,  and  the 
amount  of  their  fees  collectively  is  about  £60  :  between 
£20  and  £30  are  also  received  by  each  from  the  Dick 
bequest.  A  bursary  for  a  scholar  of  the  name  of  Cruick- 
shank  or  Topp,  at  Marischal  College,  of  the  value  of  £9. 
is  in  the  gift  of  the  incumbent.  The  relics  of  antiquity 
in  the  parish  consist  of  the  remains  of  castles,  Druidical 
temples,  and  tumuli;  and  urns  of  baked  clay,  containing 
human  bones  and  ashes,  have  been  found.  About  a 
mile  from  the  village,  in  the  northern  quarter,  formerly 
stood  a  circular  heap  called  the  Standing  Stones  of 
Culsh,  and  the  place  still  retains  the  name,  though  the 
stones  were  taken  away  seventy  years  ago,  to  supply 
materials  for  building.  A  little  farther,  in  the  same  di- 
rection, are  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Fedderate,  the 
best  stones  of  which  have  also  been  removed  for  the 
purpose  of  building.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  a 
place  of  great  strength,  and  was  in  various  hands  at  the 
time  of  the  Revolution  in  1 688. 

DEER,  OLD,  a  parish,  10  miles  (W.)  from  Peter- 
head, partly  in  the  district  of  Deer,  county  of  Aber- 
deen, including  the  villages  of  Stuartfield  and  Old 
Deer;  and  partly  in  the  county  of  Banff,  including  the 
village  of  Fetterangus  ;  the  whole  containing  4453  inha- 
bitants. The  name  appears  to  be  derived  from  a  Gaelic 
word  signifying  the  worship  of  God,  perhaps  applied 
on  account  of  the  first  Christian  church  in  the  district 
of  Buchan  having  been  erected  here.    The  remains  of 

2  N  2 


DEER 


DEER 


antiquity  in  the  parish  throw  considerable  light  upon 
its  primitive  history  :  the  vestiges  of  four  or  five  Druid- 
ical  temples  are  still  visible,  and  numerous  others  were 
removed  at  no  very  remote  period,  in  order  to  facilitate 
the  extended  operations  of  agriculture.  On  the  north 
side  of  the  hill  of  Parkhouse,  also,  there  were  until  lately 
the  remains  of  a  small  village,  supposed  to  have  been 
occupied  by  the  Druids,  but  usually  called  the  Picts' 
houses  by  the  neighbouring  peasantry.  On  the  summit  of 
Bruxie  steep,  and  at  Den  of  Howie,  near  Fetterangus,  are 
some  traces  of  fortifications  and  encampments,  affording 
evident  proof  of  military  operations  in  ancient  times  j 
and  in  the  vicinity  of  Aikey-Brae,  are  several  tumuli 
reported  to  be  the  cemeteries  of  warriors  who  fell  in  a 
sanguinary  conflict  between  Edward,  brother  of  Robert 
Bruce,  and  Cumyn,  Earl  of  Buchan.  Deer  is  also 
remarkable  as  the  site  of  a  distinguished  abbey,  founded 
about  the  beginning  of  the  thirteenth  century,  by  the 
Earl  of  Buchan,  and  first  held  by  a  company  of  Cister- 
cian monks  from  the  abbey  of  Kinloss,  in  Moray.  This 
abbey  was  suppressed  at  the  time  of  the  proscription  of 
religious  houses,  and  erected  into  a  temporal  lordship  in 
favour  of  Robert,  the  earl-marischal's  second  son,  cre- 
ated Lord  Altrie  j  but  that  nobleman  dying  without  issue, 
the  title  became  extinct,  and  the  estate  was  incorporated 
with  that  of  the  head  of  the  family.  A  very  considerable 
demesne  was  attached  to  the  abbey,  and  its  revenue 
amounted  to  £572.  8.  6.  in  money,  and  sixty-five  chal- 
ders,  seven  bolls,  one  firlot,  three  pecks  of  meal,  fourteen 
bolls  of  wheat,  and  fourteen  chalders  and  ten  bolls  of 
bear. 

The  parish,  or  rather  the  main  portion  of  it,  in 
Aberdeenshire,  measures  in  mean  length  about  nine 
and  a  half  miles,  and  about  four  and  a  half  in  breadth, 
and  contains  upwards  of  25,000  acres,  of  which  about 
three-fourths  are  under  tillage  or  in  pasture,  2000  acres 
are  occupied  by  growing  wood,  and  the  remainder  is 
peat-moss,  moor,  and  waste.  It  is  bounded  on  the  west 
by  the  parish  of  New  Deer.  The  surface  is  altogether 
undulated,  being  marked  by  a  succession  of  hills  and 
valleys  of  various  extent  and  form,  many  of  which 
are  clothed  with  verdure,  or  ornamented  with  small 
clumps  of  wood,  and  the  lower  lands  are  intersected  by 
numerous  rivulets.  Deer,  wild  geese  and  ducks,  par- 
tridges, woodcocks,  and  snipes,  and  large  quantities  of 
rabbits,  are  found  in  different  parts.  The  chief  streams 
are  two  tributaries  of  the  Ugie,  which  form  a  confluence 
in  the  parish  of  Longside,  and  fall  into  the  sea  about  a 
mile  north-west  of  Peterhead :  the  black  trout  with 
which  they  abound  supply  abundant  sport  to  the  lovers 
of  angling.  The  soil  differs  to  a  considerable  extent, 
being  in  some  parts  mixed  with  large  portions  of  sand, 
and  in  others  partaking  of  the  nature  of  clay  or  gra- 
vel, and  sometimes  resting  upon  a  subsoil  of  imper- 
vious ferruginous  matter.  The  summits  and  sides  of 
many  of  the  hills  are  especially  poor,  the  soil  con- 
taining so  little  fertility  as  to  be  altogether  unfit  for 
agriculture.  In  some  places  there  are  small  portions  of 
good  alluvial  earth;  but  these  form  an  exception  to  the 
general  character  of  the  land.  The  crops  consist  chiefly 
of  oats  and  turnips.  Large  tracts  are  reserved  for  pas- 
ture, which  are  traversed  by  herds  of  cattle  subject  to 
due  restraint  from  inclosures;  but  there  are  very  few 
sheep  kept,  except  on  gentlemen's  grounds,  and  the 
only  flock  of  any  consequence  is  on  the  Pitfour  estate, 
2?6 


where  are  between  three  and  four  hundred,  of  various 
breeds.  The  cattle  are  mostly  the  native  black,  rather 
above  the  middle  size,  with  which,  during  the  last  few 
years,  the  Teeswaterhas  been  crossed  ;  they  are  fattened 
upon  turnips,  raised  partly  by  the  use  of  bone-dust 
manure,  and  many  of  them  are  sent  for  sale  to  the  Lon- 
don markets.  Husbandry  is  well  understood  in  the 
parish,  and  considerable  improvements  have  been  made 
in  laying  out  land  for  pasture,  draining,  and  inclosing. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £13,165. 

The  prevailing  rocks  are  granite  and  limestone,  the 
latter  of  which  is  frequently  found  with  veins  and  blocks 
of  gneiss,  and  often  so  loaded  with  magnesian  earth,  as 
to  render  it  more  useful  for  building  than  for  agricul- 
tural purposes.  Near  the  lime-quarry  on  the  lands  of 
Annochie  are  blocks  of  pure  white  quartz,  and  in  other 
parts  of  the  parish  varieties  of  siliceous  stone  occur ; 
particles  of  granite,  felspar,  quartz,  and  mica  are  also 
found  in  gravel-pits.  The  large  tracts  of  peat-moss  for- 
merly to  be  seen,  are  for  the  most  part  exhausted  by 
the  continual  demand  upon  them  for  supplies  of  fuel, 
and  very  little  is  now  to  be  found.  The  chief  seat  is  the 
Mansion  House  of  Pitfour,  which  possesses  fine  gardens 
and  plantations,  and  the  character  of  which  maybe  con- 
jectured from  the  statement  of  the  fact,  that  the  ex- 
penses incurred  by  the  proprietor  in  the  erection  of 
the  house,  and  in  improving  and  ornamenting  the  con- 
tiguous grounds,  have  amounted  to  nearly  £S0,000.  On 
the  Kenmundy  and  Aden  estates  are  also  elegant  and 
commodious  mansions,  with  good  gardens,  and  well 
laid  out  plantations  :  on  the  estate  of  Dens  is  a  planta- 
tion of  about  eighty  acres,  consisting  chiefly  of  Scotch 
fir  and  larch.  Fair  specimens  may  be  seen  in  different 
places  of  ash,  elm,  silver-fir,  larch,  and  pine;  but  beech 
and  spruce-fir  appear  to  be  the  kinds  more  particularly 
adapted  to  the  soil  and  climate. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  villages  are  to  a  considerable 
extent  engaged  in  some  branch  of  manufacture ;  in 
Stuartfield  about  thirty  persons  are  employed  in  weaving 
linen-yarn  for  the  Aberdeen  houses,  and  at  Millbrake 
and  Aden  some  sorts  of  woollen-cloth  are  made.  There 
are  also  two  flax-mills  in  the  parish,  and  to  the  larger 
of  the  two  woollen-mills  a  dye-house  and  a  fulling- 
mill  are  attached.  Six  fairs  are  held  in  the  course  of 
the  year,  of  which  Aikey  fair,  on  the  Wednesday  after 
the  19th  of  July,  and  St.  Dustan's,  on  the  corresponding 
day  of  December,  are  chiefly  for  the  sale  of  cattle, 
sheep,  and  horses.  Another  is  held  on  the  Thursday 
after  the  25th  of  January,  one  on  the  Thursday  after  the 
18th  of  March,  one  (lately  established)  on  the  Monday 
after  the  17th  of  September,  and  one  about  the  beginning 
of  November  :  several  others  formerly  held  have  been 
discontinued,  and  the  four  last  mentioned  are  of  inferior 
note.  The  turnpike-road  from  Fraserburgh  to  Aberdeen 
runs  in  a  direction  north  and  south,  and  that  from  Peter- 
head to  Banff  east  and  west,  through  the  parish.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of 
Deer  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £219,  and  there  is  a  manse,  built 
in  1823,  with  a  glebe  worth  between  £40  and  £50 
per  annum.  The  church,  which  was  built  in  17S8,  and 
thoroughly  repaired  a  few  years  since,  contains  1200 
sittings.  There  is  an  episcopal  chapel ;  and  members 
of  the  Free  Church,  the  Original  Secession,  the  United 
Associate    Synod,    and    Independents,    have    places   of 


DEER 


D  E  L  T 


worship.  Three  parochial  schools  are  supported  :  the 
master  of  the  chief  establishment,  situated  at  Old 
Deer,  in  which,  besides  the  usual  instruction,  Greek 
and  mathematics  are  taught,  has  a  salary  of  £31,  with 
a  house,  and  about  £30  from  fees ;  and  the  other  mas- 
ters have  also  a  good  income  each,  with  fees.  The 
principal  remains  of  antiquity  are  the  ruins  of  the  abbey, 
at  present  surrounded  by  the  high  wall  belonging  to 
the  fruit  and  kitchen  garden  of  Pitfour ;  the  larger 
part  of  the  ruins  has  been  taken,  at  different  times, 
for  the  purpose  of  forming  stone  dykes  and  erecting 
dwelling-houses,  but  what  now  remains  is  carefully 
preserved  by  the  proprietor  of  the  estate.  A  church 
of  cruciform  design  once  stood  on  its  north  side  ;  the 
length  from  east  to  west  was  150  feet,  and  the  breadth 
ninety  feet,  and  the  nave,  thirty-eight  and  a  half  feet  wide, 
was  supported  by  a  row  of  pillars,  the  bases  of  which 
may  yet  be  seen,  standing  about  seventeen  feet  distant 
from  each  other.  The  most  interesting  Druidical  temple 
is  that  on  the  top  of  Parkhouse  Hill,  the  chief  stone 
of  which,  called  the  Altar  Stone,  is  fourteen  and  a  half 
feet  long,  and  five  and  a  half  broad  ;  the  stones  stand 
about  fourteen  feet  asunder,  and  inclose  a  circle  the 
diameter  of  which  is  forty-eight  feet.  There  are  several 
chalybeate  springs  in  the  parish. 

DEERNESS,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of  Orkney,  12  miles 
(S.  E.)  from  Kirkwall ;  containing,  with  the  island  of 
Copinshay,  777  inhabitants.  This  place,  of  which  the 
name  is  supposed  to  have  originated  in  the  number  of 
deer  frequenting  it  in  ancient  times,  is  a  peninsula 
about  four  miles  in  length,  and  from  one  to  three 
miles  in  breadth,  connected  with  the  Mainland  by  a 
narrow  isthmus.  It  is  bounded  on  the  west  and  north- 
west by  the  harbour  of  Deer  Sound,  which  separates  it 
from  the  rest  of  the  parish  of  St.  Andrew's,  and  on  the 
south  and  east  by  the  North  Sea.  According  to 
tradition,  the  whole  of  the  peninsula  was  one  wide 
forest ;  and  roots  and  trunks  of  trees,  and  the  antlers 
of  deer,  have  from  time  to  time  been  dug  up  at  a  con- 
siderable depth.  The  surface  is  varied  with  gentle 
elevations,  and  towards  the  north-east  rises  into  a  lofty 
promontory  called  the  Mull  head,  about  200  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea  :  the  soil  is  not  unfertile,  and  con- 
siderable improvement  has  taken  place  in  the  system 
of  agriculture,  and  in  the  construction  of  implements  of 
husbandry. 

Deer  Sound  is  more  than  four  miles  in  length,  and 
from  one  to  two  miles  and  a  half  in  breadth ;  the 
bottom  is  clay  mixed  with  sand,  and  the  depth  of  water 
sufficient  to  render  it  accessible  to  vessels  of  consider- 
able burthen,  to  which  it  affords  safe  anchorage  and 
shelter  from  the  winds.  The  situation  of  this  place  is 
peculiarly  favourable  for  a  fishing-station  ;  and  in  addi- 
tion to  the  various  kinds  of  fish  taken  off  the  coast, 
the  herring- fishery  is  carried  on  to  a  very  considerable 
extent,  affording  during  the  season  full  employment  to 
fifty  boats,  each  having  four  men  and  a  boy.  Facility 
of  communication  with  Kirkwall  and  other  parts  of 
the  mainland,  is  afforded  by  one  of  the  best  roads  in 
the  county.  Cattle  and  grain  are  sent  to  Leith,  to 
which  place  there  are  regular  packets,  and  a  steamer 
in  summer.  The  district  was  separated  from  the  parish 
of  St.  Andrew's,  for  ecclesiastical  purposes,  in  May, 
1630  ;  it  is  under  the  presbytery  of  Kirkwall  and  svnod 
277 


of  Orkney,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown.  The 
church  is  a  plain  building,  erected  about  the  close  of  the 
last  century,  and  affords  sufficient  accommodation  for 
the  inhabitants:  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £120, 
with  a  manse,  and  about  three  acres  of  glebe  land.  A 
school  is  supported  by  the  Society  for  Propagating 
Christian  Knowledge,  who  pay  the  master  a  salary  of 
£12  per  annum,  to  which  £3  are  added  by  the  heritors. 
Near  the  summit  of  Mull  head  was  formerly  an  ancient 
chapel  of  very  difficult  access,  to  which  numerous  pil- 
grims were  accustomed  to  resort ;  there  are  also  some 
tumuli  and  remains  of  Picts'  houses  in  the  district. 

DELTING,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Shetland, 
25  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Lerwick  ;  containing,  with 
the  islands  of  Little  Roe  and  Muckle  Roe,  2019  inha- 
bitants. This  parish,  the  name  of  which  is  said  to 
be  of  Danish  or  Norwegian  origin,  is  situated  about 
the  centre  of  the  Mainland,  and  is  separated  on  the 
west  from  the  parish  of  Northmavine  by  a  long  nar- 
row harbour  called  Sulom  Voe,  and  from  the  island  of 
Yell  on  the  north  by  Yell  Sound.  It  is  so  indented  by 
fissures  and  intersected  by  narrow  bays,  no  part  of  it 
being  above  two  miles  from  the  sea,  that  the  estimate 
of  its  superficial  extent  cannot  be  given  with  any 
degree  of  accuracy.  The  surface,  in  its  general  appear- 
ance, is  billy,  bleak,  and  dreary,  ornamented  occasion- 
ally with  a  few  small  lochs,  and  the  quantity  of  land 
under  tillage  is  not  more  than  about  1000  acres, 
attached  to  which  is  pasture  of  nearly  the  same  extent ; 
the  remainder  of  the  parish  is  hilly  ground  abounding 
in  peaty  soil,  which  affords  abundance  of  excellent  fuel. 
The  arable  land  has  been  lately  much  improved  by 
draining,  and  a  considerable  number  of  Scotch  ploughs 
has  been  introduced,  as  well  as  carts,  which  before 
had  been  very  scarce  here.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £17*7.  The  principal  rocks  are  gneiss 
and  syenite,  with  which  also  are  found  limestone  and 
hornblende.  There  are  four  mansion-houses,  named 
Busta,  Mossbank,  Ullhouse,  and  Garth.  The  inhabitants 
are  mostly  employed  in  fishing;  and  in  the  month  of 
May,  the  whole  of  the  fishermen  meet  at  the  stations 
in  Northmavine  and  Papa-Stour,  for  commencing  ope- 
rations in  the  taking  of  ling  and  cod,  upon  which 
they  chiefly  depend  :  in  a  recent  year  528  barrels  of 
herrings  and  sixty  tons  of  ling,  cod,  tusk,  and  saith 
were  cured  in  Delting,  and  these  were  only  a  part  of 
what  had  been  taken.  Piltocks  and  sillocks,  called  also 
coal-fish,  are  likewise  caught  to  a  considerable  extent, 
and  supply  the  inhabitants  with  a  large  proportion  of 
their  food,  and  frequently  with  a  quantity  of  oil.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Burravoe  and  synod  of 
Shetland,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Zetland. 
The  stipend  is  £151,  of  which  about  a  third  is  received 
from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  built  in  1*51,  and 
thoroughly  repaired  and  enlarged  about  the  year  1820, 
at  an  expense  of  £500,  and  also  a  glebe  valued  at 
£10  per  annum  :  the  minister  is  likewise  entitled  to 
the  vicarage  tithe  of  certain  quantities  of  butter  and 
oil.  There  are  two  churches,  that  of  the  south  district, 
which  was  erected  in  1/14,  and  is  reckoned  the  prin- 
cipal, and  the  north  district  church,  built  in  1811  ;  the 
number  of  sittings  in  each  is  about  560.  The  parochial 
schoolmaster  receives  a  salary  of  £26,  and  about  £3 
fees  ;  and  there  are  two  other  schools,  of  which  the 
masters   are  allowed,  one   £18,  and  the  other  £13,  by 


DENN 


DENN 


the  General  Assembly.  Near  Yell  Sound  is  a  Pictish 
castle  called  Brough  ;  at  Burravoe  are  the  remains  of 
an  ancient  harbour,  and  at  Busta  a  block  of  gra- 
nite between  ten  and  eleven  feet  in  height,  called  the 
Standing  Stone  of  Busta.  There  are  also  two  caves,  the 
one  at  Culsterness,  containing  two  apartments,  and 
supposed  to  have  been  originally  used  as  a  hiding-place, 
and  the  other  in  the  vicinity  of  the  loch  of  Trondavoe, 
said  to  have  been  used  in  times  past  as  a  depository  for 
stolen  sheep. 

DENHOLM,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cavers, 
Hawick  district  of  the  county  of  Roxburgh,  5  miles 
(W.  by  S.)  from  Jedburgh  ;  containing  696  inhabitants. 
This  place  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  northern  part  of 
the  parish,  on  the  road  from  Jedburgh  to  Hawick,  and 
equi-distant  from  both  towns.  The  population  are  em- 
ployed in  stocking-weaving,  the  work  being  given  out 
to  them  by  the  manufacturers  of  Hawick.  A  sub-post- 
office  has  been  established,  and  the  village  has  recently 
been  much  improved.  There  are  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church  and  Congregational  Union- 
ists ;  and  one  of  the  parochial  schools  is  in  the  village, 
in  which  is  also  a  subscription  library,  containing  about 
900  volumes.  Dr.  John  Leyden,  author  of  the  Scenes 
of  Infancy,  and  famous  as  an  oriental  scholar,  was  born 
at  Denholm. 

DENINO,  county  of  Fife. — See  Ddnino. 

DENNY,  a  manufacturing  town  and  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Stirling,  7  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from  Stirling, 
and  5  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Falkirk ;  containing,  with  the 
late  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Haggs,  and  the  villages  of 
Fankerton  and  Loanhead,  4916  inhabitants,  of  whom 
1S81  are  in  the  town.  This  place,  of  which  the  name, 
derived  from  the  Gaelic  Dun,  is  descriptive  of  its  situ- 
ation on  an  eminence,  originally  formed  part  of  the 
parish  of  Falkirk,  from  which  it  was  separated  about 
the  year  161S.  A  considerable  portion  of  the  parish 
appears  to  have  belonged  to  an  establishment  of  Knights 
Templars  which  probably  existed  here  or  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity,  and  the  land  is  still  known  by  the  appel- 
lation of  Temple-Denny.  The  town,  which  is  situated 
on  the  south  bank  of  the  river  Carron,  and  on  the  high 
road  from  Glasgow  to  Stirling,  consists  partly  of  a  street 
extending  from  the  church  northward  to  the  bridge  over 
the  Carron  ;  and  in  a  direction  opposite  to  this,  an- 
other spacious  street  has  been  more  recently  built, 
which,  in  compliment  to  the  principal  landed  proprietor, 
is  called  Herbertshire- street.  The  houses  are  generally 
well  built,  and  roofed  with  slate,  and  have  a  handsome 
appearance.  A  public,  library,  containing  nearly  1200 
volumes  on  general  literature,  is  supported  by  subscrip- 
tion, and  there  is  also  a  theological  library  of  400  volumes; 
several  efforts  for  the  establishment  of  reading-rooms 
have  been  made,  but  without  success.  A  club  for  the 
practice  of  archery  was  established  in  182S,  of  which 
the  members,  who  were  elected  by  ballot,  till  lately 
held  annual  meetings  in  October,  when  prizes  of  medals 
and  silver  arrows,  and  other  honorary  distinctions,  were 
awarded  ;  there  is  still  a  curling  club. 

The  woollen  manufacture  is  carried  on  to  a  consider- 
able extent,  for  the  Glasgow  houses ;  the  principal  articles 
are  tartans,  linsey-woolsey  stuffs,  and  fancy  shawls.  The 
machinery  of  the  mills  is  driven  by  the  Carron,  of  which 
the  softness  and  purity  of  the  water  render  it  peculiarly 
appropriate  for  cleaning  and  dyeing  the  various  articles 
278 


produced  in  the  works,  in  which  about  160,000  pounds 
of  wool  are  annually  consumed,  affording  occupation  to 
200  persons.  A  mill  for  the  manufacture  of  different 
kinds  of  coarse  paper  and  milled-boards  at  Carron- 
Grove,  employs  about  twenty  persons ;  the  materials 
are  chiefly  old  tarred  rope,  of  which  about  a  ton  is  used 
daily  ;  the  mill  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  the  excise  duty 
arnouuts  to  £400  every  six  weeks.  The  manufacture  of 
writing-paper  is  also  extensively  carried  on,  in  the  Her- 
bertshire mills,  by  Messrs.  Duncan  and  Sons,  employ- 
ing twenty  men  and  fifty  women,  who  reside  principally 
in  Denny  and  Fankerton ;  the  machinery  is  driven  by- 
two  water-wheels,  of  which  one  is  twenty-four,  and  the 
other  twenty-two  feet  in  diameter.  A  mill  for  crushing 
dye-woods,  on  the  bank  of  the  Carron,  and  with  which 
are  connected  works  in  Castle- Rankine  glen,  affords 
employment  to  more  than  twenty  persons,  in  the  pro- 
duction of  dyeing  materials  and  of  pyroligneous  acid  and 
the  several  liquors  requisite  for  the  various  colours;  and 
on  the  lands  of  Knowhead,  is  an  extensive  forge  for  the 
making  of  spades.  A  large  distillery  is  in  operation, 
which  produces  about.  50,000  gallons  of  whisky  annu- 
ally ;  and  a  brick  and  tile  work  has  been  recently  esta- 
blished :  many  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  place,  also, 
are  employed  in  the  print-works  in  the  adjoining  parish 
of  Dunipace.  There  are  likewise  numerous  corn  and 
meal  mills  on  the  river,  for  the  better  supply  of  which 
with  water-power,  a  reservoir  of  sixty  acres  has  been 
constructed  on  Earl's  burn,  about  nine  miles  above 
Denny,  at  an  expense  of  £2000.  The  town  contains 
well-stored  shops  for  the  sale  of  different  kinds  of  mer- 
chandise, and  all  the  various  handicraft  trades  requisite 
for  the  supply  of  the  district  are  carried  on  in  the  town, 
which  also  derives  a  considerable  degree  of  traffic  from 
its  situation  on  a  great  public  thoroughfare.  The  post- 
office  has  a  good  delivery  ;  not  less  than  twenty  public- 
conveyances  pass  daily  through  Denny,  and  facility  of 
communication  is  afforded  by  excellent,  roads  and  bridges, 
and  by  the  great  canal  between  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow, 
which  runs  within  three  miles  to  the  south  of  the  town. 
A  baron-bailie  presides  over  the  town,  with  power  to 
hold  a  court  for  the  recovery  of  debts  not  exceeding 
£2  ;  and  fairs  are  held  annually,  for  cows,  on  the  Wed- 
nesday before  the  12th  of  May  and  the  Wednesday  after 
the  11th  of  November;   but  there  is  no  market. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river 
Carron,  on  the  south  by  the  river  Bonny,  and  on  the 
west  by  the  hill  of  Darrach,  and  is  nearly  six  miles  in 
length  and  four  in  breadth,  comprising  a  little  less  than 
9000  acres,  of  which  2000  are  permanent  pasture,  and 
the  remainder  chiefly  arable.  The  surface,  which  de- 
clines gradually  from  the  hill  of  Darrach  towards  the 
east,  is  divided  nearly  in  the  centre  by  an  elevated 
ridge  throughout  its  whole  length,  from  which  the 
ground  slopes  towards  the  north  and  south ;  the  only 
other  hill  of  any  note  is  that  of  Myothill,  on  the  lands 
of  Temple-Denny.  The  scenery  is  richly  diversified, 
commanding  a  view  of  Herbertshire  House,  the  seat 
of  the  Dowager  Lady  Forbes  of  Callendar,  and  of  the 
beautifully  undulated  and  tastefully  embellished  grounds 
wherein  it  is  situated,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
Carron.  There  are  numerous  springs  and  several  small 
rivulets,  of  which  latter,  Castle-Rankine  burn,  which 
has  its  source  near  the  base  of  Darrach  Hill,  and  falls 
into    the   Carron   near   Denny  Bridge,    is    the    largest. 


D  EN  O 


DESK 


The  Carron,  rising  in  the  Muckle  Bin,  to  the  west  of 
Darrach  Hill,  and  flowing  in  an  eastern  course,  forms 
a  strikingly  picturesque  cascade  called  Auchinlilly-lin- 
spout,  near  the  bridge  on  the  road  to  Fintry ;  and  a 
cottage  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  fall  was  built  by 
Mr.  Hill,  but  is  now  a  ruin.  The  Bonny  flows  into  the 
Carron  about  two  miles  to  the  east  of  the  town. 

The  soil  on  the  banks  of  the  Carron  and  the  Bonny 
is  a  fertile  loam,  in  the  central  districts  gravelly,  and 
in  the  higher  lands  are  considerable  tracts  of  marshy 
ground ;  the  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  beans,  peas, 
potatoes,  and  turnips.  The  system  of  husbandry,  though 
greatly  improved,  is  still  defective  from  the  want  of 
draining  and  inclosures ;  and  the  farm -buildings,  with 
some  exceptions,  are  of  very  inferior  order.  There  are 
but  few  sheep  reared  on  the  lands,  and  these  are  chiefly 
of  the  Cheviot  and  Leicestershire  breeds  ;  the  cattle 
are  generally  the  Ayrshire,  and  the  horses  of  the  Clydes- 
dale breed,  to  the  improvement  of  which  great  attention 
is  now  paid.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£6293.  The  natural  woods  are  mostly  oak  and  birch, 
which  are  carefully  preserved  ;  and  the  plantations  are, 
ash,  elm,  birch,  lime,  oak,  plane,  and  larch,  and  Scotch 
and  spruce  firs,  all  of  which  are  properly  managed  and 
in  a  thriving  state.  The  substrata  are  principally  whin- 
stone  and  freestone ;  and  ironstone  and  coal  are  also 
found  in  abundance.  The  coal  on  the  north  of  the 
ridge,  though  nearest  to  the  manufactories,  is  only 
wrought  occasionally,  from  the  difficulty  of  drawing  off 
the  water;  the  mines  on  the  south,  at  Banknock,  are  in 
full  operation.  The  coal  occurs  in  three  seams,  of  which 
the  upper  is  three  feet  six  inches,  the  middle  twenty- 
two  inches,  and  the  lowest  five  feet  in  thickness  ;  and 
the  produce,  after  supplying  the  wants  of  the  locality, 
is  sent  by  the  canal  to  Greenock  and  Edinburgh.  The 
parish  contains  Myothill  House,  beautifully  situated 
near  the  base  of  Darrach  Hill,  in  grounds  embellished 
with  plantations. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Stirling  and  synod  of 
Perth  and  Stirling.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £250, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £10  per  annum  ; 
patron,  the  Crown.  The  church,  erected  in  1S13,  was 
internally  beautified  in  1S3S,  and  lighted  with  gas  ;  it 
is  a  neat  structure  in  the  Grecian  style,  and  contains 
767  sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members 
of  the  United  Secession  and  Free  Church.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  well  conducted ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average 
£■24 :  a  handsome  building  has  recently  been  erected  for 
the  school.  The  only  antiquities  are  some  remains  of  a 
Roman  station  at  Castle-Carie,  near  the  southern  con- 
fines of  the  parish.  A  rude  stone  coffin  was  discovered 
in  digging  the  foundation  for  Headswood  Cottage,  at 
Woodgate,  and  found  to  contain  the  ashes  of  an  adult 
supposed  to  have  been  killed  near  the  spot,  at  the  time 
of  the  wars  with  Edward  I.  of  England.  A  circular 
hollow  now  under  cultivation,  in  the  south  of  the  parish, 
near  the  river  Bonny,  is  said  to  have  been  the  site  of  a 
Caledonian  encampment  during  the  occupation  of  Castle- 
Carie  by  the  Romans. 

DENOVAN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dunipace, 

county  of  Stirling,  5  miles  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Falkirk  ; 

containing    104    inhabitants.       This    village,    which    is 

chiefly  inhabited  by  persons  employed  in  calico-printing 

279 


works,  is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river  Carron, 
amidst  scenery  of  pleasingly  picturesque  character,  the 
effect  of  which  is  heightened  by  the  graceful  tower  of 
the  parish  church  rising  above  the  surrounding  foliage, 
and  the  handsome  residence  of  the  proprietor.  The 
works  were  established  by  Mr.  Adam,  in  1800,  and  afford 
employment  to  about  400  persons,  of  whom  the  greater 
number  are  resident  in  the  town  of  Denny,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Carron.  In  addition  to  these  per- 
sons, engaged  in  the  regular  printing  departments,  are 
nearly  200  children,  chiefly  girls,  of  whom  some  are 
occupied  in  attendance  on  the  printers,  and  others  in 
sewing  and  fringing  shawls. 

DESKFORD,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Banff, 
4  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from  Cullen,  on  the  road  to  Keith  ; 
containing  860  inhabitants.  This  parish  derives  its 
name,  signifying  a  cold  place  to  the  southward,  from 
the  comparative  temperature  of  its  climate,  and  its  situ- 
ation with  respect  to  Cullen.  It  is  rather  more  than 
five  miles  in  length,  and  about  three  miles  in  its  average 
breadth,  comprising  a  quadrilateral  area  of  S500  acres, 
of  which  2S00  are  arable  land  in  good  cultivation,  5100 
waste  or  partly  in  pasture,  and  600  woodland.  The 
surface  is  hilly,  and  between  the  high  grounds  is  a 
beautiful  valley  watered  by  a  stream  called  the  burn  of 
Deskford,  which  rises  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Grange, 
and  receives  in  its  course  many  tributary  streams,  de- 
scending from  the  heights  on  both  sides.  The  soil  in 
the  valley  and  lower  lands  is  a  rich  black  loam,  and  in 
an  improved  state  of  cultivation.  The  high  land  on 
the  east  side  of  the  valley  is  called  the  Green  Hill,  and 
in  several  places  is  planted  with  larch  and  common  fir ; 
that  on  the  west  side  is  chiefly  covered  with  heath, 
with  the  exception  of  a  small  portion  brought  into 
cultivation.  Considerable  improvement  has  been  made 
in  draining,  and  there  is  a  quarry  of  excellent  limestone, 
which  is  extensively  worked  both  for  building  and 
for  agricultural  purposes.  A  large  tract  of  moss  sup- 
plies the  inhabitants  with  peat  and  turf,  which  are 
also  sent  to  Cullen  and  several  villages  on  the  coast. 
The  substratum  of  the  parish  is  mostly  mica-slate,  in 
which  fragments  of  quartz  are  frequently  found,  and, 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  higher  grounds,  gravel,  or 
clay  and  gravel  mixed.  The  principal  manure  is  lime  ; 
but  bone-manure  is  also  used  with  considerable  benefit, 
and  in  the  upper  part  of  the  parish  fish-manure  is 
applied.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£2154. 

The  scenery,  especially  in  the  valley,  is  pleasing  and 
picturesque.  The  burn,  in  its  progress  through  the 
parish,  affords  much  variety  ;  and  the  numerous  streams 
that  fall  into  it  from  the  high  grounds  on  both  sides, 
issue  from  narrow  glens,  the  sides'  of  which  are  fringed 
with  wood,  and  in  their  descent  form  cascades  of 
singular  beauty.  Of  these  the  most  interesting  is 
one  called  the  Linn  ;  the  stream  rushes  with  great  im- 
petuosity from  a  deep  cleft  in  the  rock,  which  it  has 
worn  into  fanciful  cavities,'and,  after  repeated  obstruc- 
tions, precipitates  itself  from  a  height  of  thirty  feet. 
A  tract  of  hilly  and  moorish  ground,  called  the  Cotton 
Hill,  comprising  about  250  acres,  has  within  the  last 
few  years  been  inclosed  for  plantation.  The  drains 
made  for  preparing  the  ground  for  the  purpose,  extend 
for  nineteen  miles,  and  the  dykes  for  its  in  closure 
nearly  six  miles.     The  woodlands   of  the   parish  now 


DESK 


DING 


comprise  850  acres.  There  was  formerly  a  bleachfield, 
and  during  the  prevalence  of  the  linen  manufacture 
the  female  population  were  engaged  in  spinning  ;  since 
the  discontinuance  of  that  trade  the  bleachfield  has 
been  converted  into  arable  land,  and  there  are  now 
only  two  meal-mills,  to  one  of  which  is  attached  a  kiln, 
and  a  barley- mill.  The  most  important  improvement 
that  has  lately  taken  place  is  the  construction  of  a  line 
of  turnpike-road  through  the  parish,  opening  a  commu- 
nication between  Keith  and  Cullen,  and  which,  from 
the  recent  construction  of  a  harbour  at  the  latter  town, 
affords  a  facility  of  forwarding  the  agricultural  produce. 

The  parish  is  ecclesiastically  in  the  presbytery  of 
Fordyce  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage 
ofthe  Earl  of  Seafield  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is£193. 12., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £8  per  annum. 
The  church,  built  before  the  Reformation,  is  in  good 
repair,  and  capable  of  receiving  a  congregation  of  357 
persons.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a 
place  of  worship.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruc- 
tion to  about  forty  boys ;  the  master's  salary  is  £34, 
with  £12  fees,  and  about  £30  from  the  bequest  of 
Mr.  Dick.  There  is  the  interest  of  a  sum  of  money, 
amounting  to  £10.  12.,  distributed  among  the  poor. 
On  the  borders  of  a  farm  called  Liechestown,  was  found 
within  the  last  twenty  years,  at  the  depth  of  six  feet, 
in  a  mossy  piece  of  ground,  the  head  of  a  swine  in 
brass,  of  the  ordinary  size,  with  a  tongue  of  wood 
moveable  by  means  of  springs  ;  it  is  now  in  the  museum 
of  the  Banff  Institution.  Upon  an  adjoining  farm, 
called  Inalterie,  supposed  to  signify  the  place  of  "  the 
altar,''  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  massive  building, 
in  one  part  of  which  is  a  deep  circular  hole  of  the  size 
of  a  well,  inclosed  with  a  stone  wall  rising  to  a  consi- 
derable height.  The  origin  and  purpose  of  the  building 
are  equally  obscure.  Close  to  it  is  a  vault,  on  ex- 
ploring which  a  staircase  was  found  leading  down  to 
the  interior ;  but  the  search  was  interrupted  by  con- 
tinued heavy  rains,  and  has  not  been  resumed.  It  is 
supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  some  baronial  castle  or 
ecclesiastical  building.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  was 
formerly  an  artificial  mount  of  stones,  called  the  Law 
Hillock,  and  thought  to  have  been  a  place  for  adminis- 
tering justice,  for  which  purpose  it  was  well  adapted ; 
but  it  has  been  removed  for  the  purpose  of  employing 
the  materials  in  building.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
burn  of  Deskford,  and  within  view  of  the  former,  is 
another  mount,  rising  to  an  elevation  of  twenty  feet, 
and  sloping  gradually  on  the  sides ;  it  is  level  on  the 
summit,  which  is  of  elliptical  form,  and  surrounded  at 
the  base  by  a  ditch,  part  of  which  forms  the  bed  of  a 
stream  called  the  Ha'  burn.  This  mount  is  termed 
the  Ha'  Hillock,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  also  an 
ancient  tribunal.  Adjoining  the  church  are  the  ruins 
of  a  tower  formerly  belonging  to  a  castle,  the  residence 
of  the  chief  proprietor  of  the  parish.  It  is  said  that 
there  was  originally  a  communication  from  this  tower 
to  the  church,  the  walls  of  which  are  contiguous;  and 
the  latter  is  thought  to  have  been  originally  the  do- 
mestic chapel  of  the  castle.  The  tower  formed  a  very 
conspicuous  object,  rising  considerably  above  the  roof 
of  the  church ;  but,  being  in  a  very  ruinous  state,  it 
was  taken  down  some  few  years  since,  from  an  appre- 
hension of  danger.  Close  to  the  church  is  St.  John's 
well,  supplied  by  a  spring  that  appears  to  issue  from 
280 


beneath  the  church,  which  was  originally  dedicated  to 
that  saint ;  and  near  it  is  a  small  fragment  of  a  very 
stately  tree  dedicated  to  the  same  patron. 

DEVONSIDE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Tillicoul- 
try, county  of  Clackmannan,  f  of  a  mile  (S.)  from 
Tillicoultry  ;  containing  170  inhabitants.  This  village, 
situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Devon,  has  sprung  up 
within  these  few  years  :  coal,  which  is  abundant  in  the 
parish,  is  wrought  in  its  vicinity,  and  brick  and  tile 
works  have  been  erected.  The  place  is  suitably  circum- 
stanced for  manufactures,  the  Devon  supplying  water 
for  steam-engines  and  other  purposes. 

DEWARTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Borth- 
wick,  county  of  Edinburgh,  1  mile  (S.)  from  Ford; 
containing  193  inhabitants.  It  is  one  of  the  most  con- 
siderable villages  in  the  parish,  and  of  pleasing  appear- 
ance, and  consists  principally  of  small  holdings  on  the 
estate  of  Vogrie,  the  property  of  the  Dewar  family.  The 
dwellings  are  ranged  on  one  side  of  the  road,  and  in 
front  is  a  plantation,  with  a  small  stream  flowing  near  : 
the  scenery  in  the  neighbourhood  is  very  picturesque. 

DINGWALL,  a  royal 
burgh,  sea-port,  and  a  parish, 
the  capital  of  the  county 
of  Ross,  20  miles  (S.  W.) 
from  Cromarty,  and  174  (N. 
N.  W.)  from  Edinburgh ; 
containing  2100  inhabitants, 
of  whom  1739  are  in  the 
burgh.  This  place,  of  which 
the  name  is  of  Scandinavian 
origin,  is  supposed  to  have 
been  originally  a  Danish  set- 
tlement, and  subsequently 
the  seat  of  one  of  the  numerous  royal  fortresses  erected 
along  the  coast,  to  repel  the  frequent  incursions  of  that 
warlike  people.  It  is  of  considerable  antiquity,  and, 
from  the  discovery  of  foundations  of  houses  and  pave- 
ments beyond  the  limits  of  the  present  town,  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  anciently  of  greater  extent  and 
importance.  It  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh  by  Alex- 
ander II.,  who,  in  1226,  bestowed  upon  the  inhabitants 
a  charter  investing  them  with  all  the  privileges  and  im- 
munities enjoyed  by  the  burgesses  of  Inverness.  The 
castle  became  the  principal  seat  of  the  powerful  earls  of 
Ross,  who  were  proprietors  of  the  greater  portion  of 
the  lands  in  the  surrounding  district,  of  which  several 
estates  are  still  held  under  charters  granted  to  the  own- 
ers by  the  earls,  and  dated  from  Dingwall.  The  castle 
and  the  lands  remained  in  the  possession  of  the  earls  of 
Ross  till  1476,  when,  on  the  attainder  of  the  last  earl, 
the  proprietor  of  the  estate  of  Tulloch  was  appointed 
hereditary  constable  of  the  castle,  and  the  earldom  was 
vested  in  the  crown.  The  only  remains  of  the  castle 
are  a  small  shapeless  fragment  of  the  walls,  from  which 
may  be  obtained  a  tolerable  idea  of  the  massive  solidity 
of  the  structure  ;  the  fosse  by  which  it  was  surrounded 
may  still  be  traced,  and  part  of  its  site  is  now  occupied 
by  a  castellated  building  recently  erected  by  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  land. 

The  town  is  situated  at  the  entrance  of  a  picturesque 
glen  opening  into  the  Frith  of  Cromarty,  and  consists 
of  one  principal  street,  about,  half  a  mile  in  length  from 
east  to  west,  from  which  several  smaller  streets  diverge 
at    right  angles.     The  houses   in  the    main    street   are 


Burgh  Seal. 


DING 


DING 


shaded  by  rows  of  tall  poplar-trees  in  front,  and  those 
of  the  older  class  are  generally  well  built  and  two  sto- 
ries in  height.  From  its  vicinity  to  the  mineral  springs 
of  Strathpeffer  the  town  has  been  much  extended  with- 
in the  last  few  years,  and  many  handsome  modern 
houses  have  been  built.  The  streets  are  paved,  and 
lighted  with  gas,  and  the  inhabitants  are  supplied  with 
water  conveyed  into  the  town  from  springs  in  the  vici- 
nity. The  public  subscription  library  has  been  for  some 
years  discontinued.  There' are  no  manufactures  carried 
on ;  the  principal  trade  arises  from  the  town  being  the 
general  mart  for  the  rich  and  populous  district  of  which 
it  is  the  centre,  for  which  it  has  numerous  shops, 
amply  stored  with  wares  of  all  kinds.  The  trade  of  the 
port  consists  chiefly  in  the  exportation  of  grain,  tim- 
ber, bark,  and  agricultural  produce ;  and  in  the  impor- 
tation of  merchandise  for  the  supply  of  the  district,  and 
of  coal,  lime,  and  other  commodities.  There  are  several 
vessels  belonging  to  the  port,  which  were  built  here, 
and  are  employed  in  the  coasting  trade.  The  harbour, 
close  to  the  town,  was  constructed  in  1817,  at  a  cost 
of  £4365,  and  is  under  the  superintendence  of  commis- 
sioners appointed  by  act  of  parliament  in  1S24. 

Under  the  charter  of  Alexander  II.,  confirmed  by 
James  IV.,  and  ratified  by  James  VI.,  the  government 
of  the  burgh  is  vested  in  a  provost,  two  bailies,  a  dean 
of  guild,  treasurer,  and  ten  councillors,  chosen  under 
the  regulations  of  the  burgh  Reform  act.  There  are  no 
incorporated  guilds ;  persons  dealing  in  merchandise 
within  the  burgh  must  become  burgesses,  the  fee  for 
which  varies  from  £5  to  £15.  15.,  but  neither  the  sons 
nor  apprentices  of  burgesses  pay  any  fee,  and  craftsmen 
may  exercise  their  trades  without  becoming  burgesses. 
The  jurisdiction  of  the  magistrates,  which  extends  over 
the  whole  of  the  royalty,  is  chiefly  confined,  in  civil 
causes,  to  actions  of  small  amount,  and  in  criminal  cafes 
to  petty  offences  ;  and  in  both,  their  functions  are  gra- 
dually falling  into  the  hands  of  the  sheriff,  whose  sub- 
stitute, residing  here,  holds  the  usual  courts.  The  burgh 
is  associated  with  those  of  Cromarty,  Dornoch,  Kirk- 
wall, Tain,  and  Wick,  in  returning  a  member  to  the 
imperial  parliament;  the  number  of  voters  is  100.  The 
town-house,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  is  an 
ancient  structure  with  a  spire ;  the  county  buildings 
are  elegant,  and  the  prison  extensive.  The  market,  on 
Friday,  is.  well  supplied  with  grain  and  provisions ; 
and  fairs,  chiefly  for  cattle  and  agricultural  produce, 
are  held  on  the  third  Wednesdays  in  January  and  Fe- 
bruary, the  first  Wednesdays  in  June,  September,  and 
November,  the  first  Tuesday  in  July,  and  the  Tuesday 
before  Christmas-day.  There  are  regular  posts  to 
Poolewe,  Stornoway,  Ullapool,  Lochcarron,  Lochalsh, 
Kintail,  Glenelg,  and  the  Isle  of  Skye  ;  and  a  branch  of 
the  Caledonian  bank  has  been  established  in  the  town. 
Facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  good  roads  in 
all  directions,  kept  in  excellent  repair;  and  by  steam- 
boats to  Edinburgh  weekly,  and  every  alternate  week 
to  Ldfadon,  which  call  at  Invergordon,  in  the  Frith  of 
Cromarty. 

The  parish,  which  is  situated  at  the  western  extre- 
mity of  the  Frith,  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  of 
nearly  equal  breadth  ;  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
the  heights  of  Ben  Wy vis,  on  the  south  by  the  river 
Conan,  and  on  the  south  and  south-east  by  the  sea. 
It  comprises  about  5600  acres,  of  which  23S0  are  ara- 
Vol.  I. — 'SSI 


ble,  1380  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder 
meadow,  pasture,  and  waste.  The  surface  is  beautifully 
diversified  with  hills  and  valleys,  and  with  wood  and 
water.  To  the  north,  the  hill  of  Tulloch,  a  continuation 
of  the  ridge  of  Strathpeffer,  rises  to  a  height  of  800  feet, 
crowned  on  its  summit  with  timber  of  stately  growth, 
and  enriched  on  the  acclivities  with  lands  in  the  high- 
est state  of  cultivation,  and  the  tastefully  embellished 
pleasure-grounds  of  Tulloch  Castle.  The  Conan,  which 
flows  by  a  winding  course  into  the  Frith,  adds  much  to 
the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  and  abounds  with  salmon 
and  trout  of  various  kinds,  and  also  with  pike  and  eels. 
The  Frith  at  flood-tide  forms  a  magnificent  expanse, 
but  at  ebb-tide  recedes  for  nearly  three  miles  from  the 
shore,  leaving  a  flat  strand  of  slime. 

The  soil  is  generally  of  a  clayey  nature ;  in  the 
lower  lands  near  the  town  is  a  deep  black  vegetable 
mould,  of  great  fertility,  and  in  dry  seasons  producing 
luxuriant  crops.  Throughout  the  parish,  the  soil  of  the 
lands  under  cultivation  is  fertile,  and  well  adapted  to 
the  growth  of  wheat,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips, 
which  are  the  principal  crops.  The  system  of  husban- 
dry is  in  the  most  improved  state  ;  the  lands  are  inclosed 
with  hedges,  in  which  are  rows  of  timber,  and  the 
farm-houses  and  offices  substantial  and  well  arranged. 
Few  live  stock  are  reared,  but  considerable  numbers  of 
sheep  and  cattle  are  pastured ;  the  sheep  are  chiefly  of 
the  Cheviot  breed,  and  the  cattle  of  the  Highland  breed, 
with  some  cows  of  the  Ayrshire  on  the  dairy-farms. 
The  woods  abound  with  game  of  all  kinds,  which,  from 
the  sheltered  situation  of  the  place,  resort  in  great  va- 
riety ;  the  principal  are,  partridges,  grouse,  black  game, 
and  pheasants,  which  last,  though  but  of  recent  introduc- 
tion, have  rapidly  increased  in  number.  The  plantations 
are,  fir,  larch,  beech,  elm,  oak,  ash,  sycamore,  and 
various  other  trees,  all  in  a  very  thriving  state,  and 
under  careful  management.  The  chief  substrata  are  sand- 
stone and  conglomerate,  of  which  also  the  rocks  are 
composed.  There  are  three  sandstone  quarries,  exten- 
sively wrought  ;  one  is  of  a  grey  colour,  and  of  hard 
quality,  and  the  others  of  light  blue,  of  softer  kind,  but 
well  adapted  for  building,  and  susceptible  of  a  fine 
polish.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£4576. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Dingwall  and  synod  of  Ross. 
The  minister's  stipend  is  £244,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £30  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Crown. 
The  church  is  a  neat,  plain  structure,  in  good  repair, 
and  contains  S00  sittings  ;  service  is  performed  both  in 
the  English  and  in  the  Gaelic  language,  and  a  catechist 
is  employed  who  is  paid  £15  per  annum.  There  is  an 
episcopal  chapel.  The  parochial  school  is  well  attended; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and 
garden,  and  the  fees  average  £40.  The  poor  have  the 
interest  of  some  legacies,  of  which  £700  was  a  bequest 
by  one  of  the  Tulloch  family,  and  £100  by  the  late 
Bailie  Mackenzie.  Near  the  church  is  an  obelisk  rising 
from  a  base  of  six  feet  square  to  the  height  of  fifty-seven 
feet,  erected  by  George,  the  first  earl  of  Cromarty, 
and  secretary  of  state  for  Scotland  to  Queen  Anne,  to 
point  out  the  family  sepulchre.  Towards  the  north  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish  are  the  remains  of  a  Druidical 
circle  ;  and  at  the  east  end  of  the  town  are  those  of  the 
cross  supposed  to  have  been  in  the  centre  of  the  ancient 

20 


DIRL 


DI  RL 


town.  This  place  gave  the  title  of  baron  to  Sir  Richard 
Preston,  who  was  created  Lord  Dingwall  by  James  VI., 
with  whom  he  was  a  great  favourite  ;  he  married  the 
only  daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Qrmond,  and  left  a  daugh- 
ter who  conveyed  the  title  to  another  family,  by  whom 
it  was  forfeited  by  attainder  in  1716. 

DINWOODIE,  an  ancient  chapelry,  in  the  parish 
of  Applegarth,  county  of  Dumfries,  5  miles  (N.  by 
W.)  from  Lockerbie.  It  is  situated  on  the  road  from 
Lockerbie  to  Moffat,  and  a  little  east  of  the  river  An- 
nan, which  bounds  the  parish  on  the  west.  On  Dinwoo- 
die  Green  is  an  inn,  which  has  long  served  as  a  stage 
to  the  mail  between  London  and  Glasgow.  Dinwoodie 
hill,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  village,  is  736  feet  high. 
DIRLETON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Hadding- 
ton ;  including  the  villages  of  Fenton  and  Gulane,  and 
containing  1497  inhabitants,  of  whom  353  are  in  the 
village  of  Dirleton,  2§  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from  North 
Berwick.  This  place,  anciently  called  Golyn,  a  Gaelic 
term  signifying  a  small  lake,  derived  that  appellation 
from  a  sheet  of  water  near  the  village  of  Gulane,  which 
has  long  been  drained.  The  ancient  manors  of  Golyn 
and  Dirleton,  which  latter  gives  to  the  parish  its  present 
name,  belonged,  together  with  the  lands  of  Fenton,  in 
the  early  part  of  the  twelfth  century,  to  the  family  of 
Vaux  or  De  Vallibus,  and  in  1340,  passed,  by  marriage 
with  the  daughter  and  heiress  of  William  De  "Vallibus, 
to  Sir  John  Halyburton,  whose  grandson,  Sir  Walter, 
lord  high  treasurer  of  Scotland,  was  created  Lord  Haly- 
burton in  144S.  On  the  decease  of  the  sixth  lord 
Halyburton,  the  lands  were  conveyed  by  his  daughter 
and  heiress  Janet,  in  marriage,  to  William,  second  lord 
Ruthven,  by  whose  descendant,  John,  Earl  of  Gowrie, 
they  were  forfeited  to  the  crown  in  1600.  They  were 
afterwards  granted  to  Sir  Thomas  Erskine,  who  killed 
the  Earl  of  Gowrie  while  making  an  attempt  on  the  life 
of  James  VI.  ;  and  Sir  Thomas  was  created  Lord  Dirle- 
ton in  1603,  Viscount  Fenton  in  1606,  and  Earl  of 
Kellie  in  1619.  The  lands,  in  1663,  were  purchased  by 
Sir  John  Nisbet,  afterwards  lord  of  session  and  king's 
advocate,  from  whose  descendant  they  passed  by  mar- 
riage to  the  present  proprietor.  Sir  John  Nisbet.  was 
born  here  in  1610,  and  died  in  1638;  he  published  a 
work  entitled  Doubts  and  Questions  in  the  Law,  especially 
of  Scotland,  which  was  highly  esteemed,  and  of  which 
Lord  Chancellor  Hardwicke  was  accustomed  to  say  that 
"Dirleton' s  doubts  were  better  than  most  people's  cer- 
tainties." The  ancient  castle  of  Dirleton,  erected  by 
the  family  of  Vaux,  in  the  twelfth  century,  was  a  fortress 
of  great  strength,  and  opposed  the  most  formidable  resist- 
ance to  Edward  I.,  on  his  invasion  of  Scotland  in  1298. 
The  English  forces  by  whom  it  was  besieged  were,  during 
the  long  period  of  its  defence,  reduced  to  the  greatest  ex- 
tremities ;  it  was  at  length  surrendered  to  Anthony 
Beck,  Bishop  of  Durham.  It  remained  in  the  hands  of 
the  English  till  the  year  1306,  and  subsequently,  on  the 
invasion  of  Scotland  by  Cromwell  in  1650,  was  besieged 
and  taken  by  General  Lambert,  by  whose  orders  it  was 
dismantled  and  almost  entirely  demolished. 

The  parish  is  about  five  miles  and  a  half  in  length,  and 
four  in  breadth,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  and  on  the  south  by  the  small  river 
Peffer,  which  divides  it  from  the  parish  of  Athelstane- 
ford.  It  comprises  7500  Scottish  acres,  of  which  5300 
are  arable  and  in  a  state  of  good  cultivation,  300  woodland 
282 


and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  pasture  and  heath 
The  surface  is  generally  fiat,  being  varied  only  by  two 
nearly  parallel  ridges  of  moderate  elevation,  which  divide 
it  into  three  almost  equal  portions  ;  the  scenery  is  greatly 
enlivened  by  the  Frith,  and  its  several  islands,  of  which 
those  of  Fetheray,  Eyebrochy  or  Ibris,  and  the  Lamb 
form  part  of  the  parish.  The  isle  of  Fetheray  is  situated  di- 
rectly opposite  to  the  village,  about  a  mile  from  the  shore, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  narrow  isthmus  rising 
on  the  west  into  an  elevation,  called,  from  its  appearance, 
the  Castle  of  Tarbet.  The  coast  towards  the  east  is  level 
sand,  and  towards  the  west  rocky,  having  crags  of  con- 
siderable height.  The  rivers  are  the  Millburn  and  the 
Peffer,  which  latter  divides  into  two  shallow  and  incon- 
siderable streams,  one  forming  the  boundary  of  the 
parish,  and,  after  a  course  of  nearly  eight  miles,  falling 
into  the  sea  at  Aberlady,  and  the  other  flowing  in  an 
easterly  direction  into  the  sea  near  Tynningham. 

The  soil  on  the  southern  side  of  the  parish  is  partly 
wet  and  marshy,  and  on  the  northern  side  light 
and  sandy ;  the  remainder  is  generally  a  good  loam, 
resting  on  a  tilly  substratum,  and  by  a  highly  improved 
course  of  agriculture  rendered  extremely  fertile.  The 
crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  beans,  peas,  potatoes,  and 
turnips  ;  bone-dust  and  rape  manures  have  been  exten- 
sively introduced  ;  tile- draining  is  practised  to  a  great 
extent,  and  much  unprofitable  land  has  been  reclaimed. 
Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  improvement  of  live  stock  ; 
the  sheep,  of  which  about  2000  are  annually  pastured, 
are  chiefly  of  the  Cheviot,  Leicestershire,  and  black-faced 
breeds.  About  500  head  of  cattle  and  120  milch  cows 
are  grazed.  The  plantations  are  mostly  on  the  sandy 
soils,  and  are  well  managed  ;  the  thinnings  supply  abun- 
dant materials  for  palings  and  other  purposes.  The  sub- 
strata are,  sandstone,  whinstone,  and  limestone ;  the 
sandstone  is  quarried  at  Gulane,  and  the  whinstone  at 
Burnside  ;  the  limestone  has  not  been  worked.  Basalt 
is  found  near  the  coast,  and  on  the  farm  of  West  Fenton 
it  assumes  the  columnar  formation,  appearing  in  penta- 
gonal columns,  of  which  more  than  thirty  were  some 
years  since  discovered.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £13,885.  Archerfield  is  a  handsome  man- 
sion-house, in  a  park,  commanding  an  extensive  view  of 
the  Frith.  The  village  of  Dirleton  is  beautifully  situated 
on  an  eminence,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  sea,  and 
consists  of  neatly-built  cottages,  with  gardens  attached 
to  them,  richly  ornamented  with  flowers  and  shrubs. 
From  its  elevated  site  it  commands  interesting  pros- 
pects over  the  surrounding  country,  embracing,  towards 
the  east,  the  Bass  rock,  the  island  of  May,  and  North 
Berwick  Law  ;  and  with  the  ivy-clad  ruins  of  its  ancient 
castle,  seated  on  a  lofty  rock  at  its  eastern  extremity,  it 
forms  itself  a  conspicuous  object  in  the  landscape.  In 
the  village  are,  a  parochial  library  consisting  of  160 
volumes  purchased  by  collections  at  the  church ;  a  sub- 
scription library  ;  and  a  library  of  ISO  volumes  for  the 
use  of  the  school.  It  has  a  post-office  under  Had- 
dington, with  which  town  and  other  places  in  the  vicinity 
it  has  facilities  of  intercourse  by  good  roads. 

The  parish  is  in- the  presbytery  of  Haddington  and 
synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale,  and  patronage  of  Mrs. 
Ferguson.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £293.  18.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  of  twelve  acres.  The  church  is  a 
substantial  and  handsome  edifice,  erected  in  1612,  and 
repaired  within  the  last  few  years  ;  it  is  well  situated  for 


DOLL 


DOLL 


the  accommodation  of  the  parishioners,  and  adapted  for 
a  congregation  of  600  persons.  The  members  of  the 
Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship.  The  parochial 
school,  in  the  village  of  Dirleton,  affords  instruction  to 
about  eighty  children ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  £33.  16.  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  There  were 
anciently  several  chapels  in  the  parish,  all  subordinate 
to  the  church  of  Golyn.  One  of  these,  dedicated  to  St. 
Nicholas,  was  situated  on  the  isle  of  Fetheray,  and 
there  are  still  some  portions  of  it  remaining ;  and  on  the 
lands  of  Archerfield  was  formerly  a  convent  of  nuns  of 
the  Cistercian  order,  a  cell  to  the  monastery  founded  by 
David  I.  at  Berwick-upon-Tweed.  The  remains  of  the 
old  chuixh  of  Golyn  are  still  in  good  preservation. 
Numerous  coffins  have  been  found  near  the  villages  of 
Dirleton  and  Fenton,  formed  of  a  peculiar  kind  of  stone, 
and  containing  bones  imbedded  in  dark  coloured  earth. 
Near  West  Fenton,  a  stone  hammer  of  very  great  anti- 
quity has  been  dug  up ;  and  not  far  from  this,  the  foun- 
dations of  several  houses  have  been  discovered  by  the 
plough,  supposed  to  have  been  destroyed  by  an  encroach- 
ment of  the  sea,  which  formerly  reached  the  spot,  though 
now  some  miles  distant.  There  are  also  remains  of  the 
old  mansion  of  Saltcoats,  belonging  to  the  ancient 
family  of  Levington,  whose  ancestor  received  a  grant  of 
these  lands  as  a  recompense  for  having  killed  a  destruc- 
tive boar  that  infested  the  neighbourhood. 

DOLLAR,  a  town  and  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Clackmannan;  containing  1562  inhabitants,  of  whom 
1131  are  in  the  town,  7  miles  (N.  E:)  from  Alloa.  This 
place,  of  which  the  name,  in  the  Gaelic  language,  is  de- 
scriptive either  of  a  vale  at  the  base  of  a  hill,  or  of  a 
secluded  plain,  belonged  in  the  15th  century  to  the 
Campbell  family,  of  whose  baronial  residence,  Castle- 
Campbell,  there  are  still  considerable  remains.  By 
whom  or  at  what  period  this  ancient  fortress,  which  is 
of  formidable  strength,  was  first  erected,  is  not  distinctly 
known  ;  the  style  of  the  buildings  indicates  different 
dates,  and  evidently  shows  that  the  original  structure 
received  various  subsequent  additions.  The  later  por- 
tions are  in  a  state  of  ruin  ;  but  the  keep,  the  oldest 
part,  is  in  rather  good  preservation.  This  tower,  of  which 
the  walls  are  of  vast  thickness,  is  of  quadrilateral  form, 
and  the  spiral  staircase  forming  an  ascent  to  the 
roof  is  still  tolerably  entire.  To  the  south  of  the  keep 
are  extensive  vaults,  continued  far  beyond  the  walls  of 
the  castle,  which,  from  the  rugged  and  precipitous  ac- 
clivities of  the  height  whereon  it  is  built,  is  almost  in- 
accessible. In  the  year  1556,  Archibald,  the  fourth  earl 
of  Argyll,  resided  in  the  castle,  where  he  was  frequently 
visited  by  the  reformer,  John  Knox,  who  administered 
the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  here  previously 
to  his  departure  for  Geneva.  The  castle  was  burnt  in 
1644,  by  the  Marquess  of  Montrose,  after  his  victories 
at  Auldearne  and  Alford,  on  his  route  to  the  south,  on 
which  occasion  his  troops  burnt  every  house  in  the 
parishes  of  Dollar  and  Muckart  belonging  to  the  vassals 
of  the  Earl  of  Argyll.  The  lands  are  at  present  divided 
among  various  proprietors,  of  whom  the  principal  are 
the  Globe  Insurance  Company. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Ochil 
range,  and  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  from  north  to 
south,  and  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  breadth,  compris- 
ing nearly  4500  acres,  of  which  1/40  are  arable,  250 
woodland  and  plantations,  2500  hill  pasture,  and  the 


remainder  moss  and  waste.  The  surface,  sloping  gra- 
dually from  the  base  of  the  hills  towards  the  south, 
forms  a  gently  inclined  plane  to  the  river  Devon,  by 
which  the  parish  is  intersected  from  east  to  west,  and 
beyond  which  the  ground  rises  gradually  to  a  ridge  of 
table  land  of  considerable  breadth.  The  principal  of 
the  Ochils  are.  King's  Seat,  Dollar  Hill,  and  the  Wisp, 
none  of  which,  however,  exceed  1900  feet  in  elevation. 
At  the  western  extremity  of  the  range  is  Damiett,  com- 
manding an  interesting  view  of  the  surrounding  country, 
including  Stirling,  Alloa,  Linlithgow,  and  Falkirk,  and 
reaching  to  the  centre  of  Lanarkshire,  with  the  range  of 
mountains  from  Perth  on  the  east,  to  Loch  Katrine  and 
Loch  Lomond  on  the  west.  The  river  Devon  flows 
through  the  vale  of  Dollar,  in  a  beautifully  winding 
stream,  between  banks  richly  wooded,  and,  after  a 
course  in  which  it  forms  many  picturesque  cascades, 
falls  into  the  Forth  at  Cambus ;  it  abounds  with  trout 
and  par,  and  in  the  numerous  burns  that  flow  into  it 
from  the  Ochils  trout  are  also  found.  The  bridge  over 
the  river  connecting  this  parish  with  that  of  Fossaway,  was 
built  by  Thomas  Forrest,  vicar  of  Dollar,  who  suffered 
martyrdom  in  1538,  and  hence  it  is  called  Vicar's  Bridge. 

The  soil,  though  various,  is  generally  fertile  ;  the 
crops  are,  oats,  wheat,  barley,  turnips,  and  potatoes. 
The  system  of  agriculture  is  advancing,  and  the  lands 
have  been  greatly  improved  by  draining ;  the  farm- 
buildings  are  substantial  and  commodious,  and  most  of 
the  fences  are  kept  in  good  order.  The  hills  afford  excel- 
lent pasture  for  sheep,  of  which  considerable  numbers  are 
reared.  The  plantations,  which  are  interspersed  through- 
out the  parish,  are,  oak,  ash,  elm,  beeeh,  plane,  and  the 
various  kinds  of  fir  ;  birch  and  alder  appear  to  be  indi- 
genous, and  recently  American  oak,  chesnut,  and  wal- 
nut, with  various  other  trees,  have  been  introduced,  and 
appear  to  thrive.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £4313.  The  rocks  are  chiefly  of  porphyry  and 
whinstone,  and  in  the  hills  are  found  some  veins  of 
copper  and  lead  ;  the  principal  substrata  are,  sandstone 
of  various  colours,  ironstone,  limestone,  and  coal. 
Some  unsuccessful  attempts  to  work  the  copper  were 
made  a  few  years  since.  There  is  a  quarry  in  operation, 
producing  excellent  stone  for  building;  and  the  coal 
has  been  extensively  wrought  at  Dollar,  near  the  Ochils, 
and  at  Sheardale,  on  the  table  land  to  the  south  of  the 
Devon.  In  both  these  coalfields  are  found  splint  and 
main  coal,  in  seams  of  three  and  five  feet  in  thickness, 
at  depths  respectively  of  nine  and  eleven  fathoms  from 
the  surface.  The  works  at  Dollar  have  been  for  the 
few  last  years  discontinued  ;  but  those  at  Sheardale  are 
in  full  operation,  producing  annually  about  6000  tons 
for  the  supply  of  the  neighbourhood. 

The  village  or  town,  which  has  greatly  increased 
since  the  establishment  of  the  Dollar  Institution,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  sloping  plain  in  the  centre 
of  the  parish,  and  contains  several  handsome  houses, 
the  residences  of  families  connected  with  that  establish- 
ment, in  addition  to  those  inhabited  by  persons  em- 
ployed in  the  works  in  the  neighbourhood.  There  is  a 
bleachfield  here,  belonging  to  Mr.  Haig.  In  17S7,  it 
comprised  only  about  four  acres  ;  but  the  concern  has 
been  much  extended,  and  at  present  not  less  than  thirty 
acres  are  appropriated  to  the  bleaching  of  linen  goods, 
in  which  more  than  sixty  persons  are  employed,  of 
whom  nearly  one-half  are  women.     The  woollen  manu- 

2  0  2 


DOLP 


DO  L  P 


facture,  for  which  a  mill  has  been  erected,  is  carried  on 
to  a  small  extent;  and  a  manufactory  of  bricks  and 
tiles  has  been  established,  in  which  about  twenty  per- 
sons are  engaged.  A  branch  office  under  the  post-office 
at  Alloa  has  been  established  here }  fairs,  chiefly  for. 
cattle,  are  held  annually,  in  May  and  October ;  and 
facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  the  turnpike- 
road  from  Kinross  to  Stirling,  which  passes  through  the 
parish.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Stirling  and 
synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£158.  10.,  of  which  a  small  part  is  paid  from  the  ex- 
chequer, with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £18  per 
annum  ;  patrons,  the  Globe  Insurance  Company.  The 
church,  built  in  1775,  being  insufficient  for  the  increased 
population,  and  also  in  a  dilapidated  condition,  a  new 
church  was  erected  in  1842,  at  a  cost  exceeding  £2500, 
defrayed  by  heritors  and  feuars ;  it  is  a  handsome 
structure  in  the  later  English  style,  with  a  square  em- 
battled tower,  after  a  design  by  Mr.  Tite,  of  London, 
and  contains  600  sittings.  There  is  a  place  of  wor- 
ship for  members  of  the  United  Original  Secession. 
The  parochial  schoolmaster  has  a  salary  of  £25.  17., 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about 
£12  annually. 

The  Dollar  Institution  was  founded  in  1825,  from  the 
proceeds  of  a  legacy  by  Mr.  John  Macnab,  a  merchant 
of  London,  who,  in  1802,  bequeathed  £90,000  three 
per  cents,  for  the  erection  and  endowment  of  a  school, 
or  some  other  charitable  institution,  for  the  benefit  of 
the  poor  of  his  native  parish.  The  trustees,  who  are 
the  minister  and  elders  of  the  parish,  appropriated  the 
funds  to  the  establishment  of  a  general  seminary  of  in- 
struction in  all  the  various  branches  of  learning,  and 
have  appointed  six  masters,  to  each  of  whom  they 
give  a  minimum  salary  of  £140  per  annum,  with  a 
large  house  and  garden,  and  the  privilege  of  taking 
boarders.  The  branches  taught,  each  by  a  separate 
master,  are,  the  English  language,  writing  and  arith- 
metic, the  Latin,  Greek,  and  Oriental  languages,  the 
modern  languages,  mathematics,  drawing,  and  geogra- 
phy. The  number  of  scholars  is  about  300  ;  and  the 
school  fees,  averaging  £120  per  annum,  are  paid  to  the 
treasurer  of  the  funds,  which  produce  £2000  per  an- 
num. The  buildings  of  the  institution  were  erected 
after  a  design  by  Mr.  Playfair,  of  Edinburgh,  at  an 
expense  of  about  £t 0,000,  and  form  a  spacious  struc- 
ture in  the  Grecian  style,  186  feet  in  length,  and  63 
feet  in  breadth.  In  the  centre  of  the  principal  front  is 
a  stately  portico  of  six  columns,  supporting  a  cornice 
and  pediment ;  and  the  upper  portion  of  the  walls  is 
crowned  with  a  handsome  parapet.  The  building  con- 
tains a  hall  and  library  forty-five  feet  square,  lighted  by 
a  cupola  forty-five  feet  in  height,  supported  on  fluted 
columns  ;  a  museum,  spacious  class-rooms  for  the  dif- 
ferent masters,  and  other  apartments.  Around  the 
institution  is  a  spacious  lawn,  and  in  the  rear  is  a  park 
of  seven  acres,  which  has  been  formed  into  gardens 
and  nurseries,  for  the  instruction  of  the  pupils  in  horti- 
culture and  botany.  Connected  with  the  institution  is 
also  an  extensive  infant  school.  The  poor  of  Dollar 
have  the  interest  of  other  charitable  bequests,  in  the 
aggregate  amounting  to  £319. 

DOLPHINGSTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Pres- 
tonpans,   county  of  Haddington,    1   mile   (S.  by  W.) 
284 


from  Prestonpans ;  containing  63  inhabitants.  This 
place  is  on  the  road  from  Musselburgh  to  Tranent,  from 
which  latter  village  it  is  distant,  westward,  about  two 
miles.  Here  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  building  sup- 
posed to  have  been  a  residence  of  monks,  and  there  are 
also  some  ruins  of  a  family  seat  of  the  earls  of  Hynd- 
ford. 

DOLPHINTON,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark,  6  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Biggar ;  con- 
taining 305  inhabitants.  This  place,  anciently  Dolphins- 
town,  derived  its  name  from  Dolfine,  elder  brother  of 
Cospatrick,  first  earl  of  Dunbar,  and  who,  in  the  reign 
of  Alexander  I.,  acquired  possession  of  the  manor,  which, 
after  passing  through  numerous  families,  of  whom  se- 
veral were  eminently  distinguished,  was  divided  among 
various  proprietors.  The  parish  is  about  three  miles  in 
length,  from  east  to  west,  and  two  miles  and  a  half  in 
breadth,  and  the  surface,  which  has  a  gentle  acclivity, 
is  tolerably  level,  with  the  exception  of  the  hills  of 
Dolphinton  and  Keir,  the  former  1550,  and  the  latter 
900,  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  principal 
stream  is  the  Medwin,  which,  near  Garveld  House, 
divides  into  two  channels,  the  one  flowing  eastward 
into  the  Tweed,  and  the  other  westward  into  the  river 
Clyde.  There  is  also  a  small  rivulet  which,  after  re- 
ceiving several  tributary  rills,  falls  into  the  Lyne.  The 
scenery  is  generally  pleasing,  but  the  want  of  wood 
renders  it  less  picturesque  ;  great  numbers  of  young 
plantations,  however,  have  latterly  been  formed,  which 
will  soon  contribute  much  to  its  embellishment. 

The  soil  is  generally  a  dry  friable  loam,  intermixed 
with  sand  ;  in  some  parts,  a  kind  of  clay  with  portions 
of  moss.  The  whole  number  of  acres  in  the  parish  is 
estimated  at  3668,  of  which  2221  are  arable,  444  in 
woods  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder,  of  which 
probably  300  acres  might  be  rendered  arable,  are  rough 
pasture  and  waste.  The  chief  crops  are  oats  and  tur- 
nips, and  barley,  wheat,  and  potatoes  are  also  grown  ; 
the  system  of  agriculture  is  improved,  and  considerable 
progress  has  been  made  in  draining,  and  much  land 
heretofore  totally  unproductive  has  been  converted  into 
excellent  meadow  producing  luxuriant  crops  of  hay. 
Attention  is  paid  to  the  management  of  the  dairy  ;  200 
milch-cows,  chiefly  of  the  Ayrshire  breed,  are  kept  on 
the  several  farms,  and  about  100  head  of  young  cattle 
are  annually  reared.  About  1000  sheep,  also,  are 
annually  fed,  the  greater  number  of  which  are  of  the 
black-faced,  and  a  few  of  the  Cheviot  breed.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £I9S8.  The 
substrata  are,  whinstone,  sandstone,  and  freestone.  Some 
indications  of  lead-ore  induced  an  attempt  in  search  of 
that  mineral,  but  it  was  not  attended  with  success;  fire- 
clay is  obtained,  and  in  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
parish  is  found  a  kind  of  stone  well  adapted  for  ovens. 
Dolphinton  House  and  Newholm  are  handsome  mansions 
of  modern  erection.  The  road  from  Edinburgh  to 
Biggar  intersects  the  parish. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Biggar  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent 
is  £158,  of  which  above  two-thirds  are  received  from 
the  exchequer;  the  manse  was  put  into  thorough  repair 
and  enlarged  in  1S2S,  and  the  glebe  comprises  about 
twelve  acres,  valued  at  £27.  10.  per  annum;  patron, 
Lord  Douglas.     The  church    is   a  tolerably  substantial 


DORE 


D  O  RN 


edifice,  but  inadequate  to  the  wants  of  the  population  ; 
it  appears  to  have  been  built  about  two  centuries  since. 
The  parochial  school  is  well  conducted  j  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £26,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the 
fees  average  about  £15.  He  receives,  also,  the  rent 
of  four  acres  of  land  bequeathed  by  William  Brown, 
in  1658,  and  now  producing  £8  per  annum  ;  the  in- 
terest of  1000  merks  by  the  same  benefactor,  for  the 
gratuitous  instruction  of  poor  children ;  and  1 00 
merks  for  instructing  twenty  children,  bequeathed  by 
Mr.  Bowie,  in  1759.  Mr.  Bowie  also  bequeathed  100 
merks  for  the  education  of  any  youth  of  promising 
genius,  or,  in  failure  of  such,  to  be  appropriated  to  the 
apprenticing  of  children ;  fifty  merks,  either  to  the 
poor,  or  for  the  purchase  of  school  books  for  children  ; 
and  fifty  merks  to  the  minister  for  managing  the  pro- 
perty, which  consists  of  lands  at  Stonypath,  purchased 
by  the  testator  for  8000  merks,  and  given  in  trust  to 
the  minister  and  Kirk  Session  for  the  above  purposes. 
On  the  summit  of  Keir  hill  are  some  remains  of  an 
ancient  camp  in  good  preservation ;  there  are  also 
similar  remains  at  other  places  in  the  parish.  Within 
less  than  a  mile  south-west  of  the  manse,  is  a  tumulus 
of  stones,  about  four  feet  in  height,  surrounded  by  a 
circle  of  upright  stones  inclosing  an  area  of  twenty 
paces  in  diameter.  Near  this  spot  was  found  an  orna- 
ment of  fine  gold,  resembling  part  of  a  horse's  bit,  with 
about  forty  gold  beads  ;  stone  coffins  are  frequently 
found  in  various  parts  of  the  parish,  of  rude  and  ancient 
construction,  and  numerous  sepulchral  remains. 

DORE  HOLM,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Northma- 
vine,  county  of  Shetland.  It  is  situated  in  the  bay 
of  St.  Magnus,  south  of  the  mainland  of  the  parish, 
and  derives  its  name  from  a  remarkable  arch  which 
passes  through  its  centre,  of  lofty  and  capacious  dimen- 
sions, and  admitting  boatmen  to  fish  in  the  waters 
beneath,  being  lighted  by  an  opening  at  the  top.  The 
islet  is  one  of  the  smallest  of  the  Shetland  group. 

DORES,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Inverness, 
7|  miles  (S.  S.  W.)  from  Inverness  ;  containing  1745  inha- 
bitants, of  whom  80  are  in  the  village.  The  ancient 
name  was  Durris,  a  word  derived  from  the  Gaelic  term 
tur-ri-ish,  signifying  rising  ground  near  water.  The 
parish  is  situated  nearly  at  the  northern  extremity,  and 
on  the  eastern  shore,  of  Loch  Ness,  by  which  an 
elevated  portion  of  the  lands  is  washed ;  and  is  be- 
tween twenty  and  twenty-five  miles  in  length,  and 
upwards  of  four  miles  in  breadth,  comprising  about 
24,000  acres,  of  which  4000  are  arable,  the  same  num- 
ber wood  and  plantation,  and  the  remainder  moorland 
pasture.  A  small  part  of  the  parish,  containing  twenty 
inhabitants,  is  locally  in  the  parish  of  Boleskine.  The 
surface  is  mountainous,  with  the  exception  of  a  narrow 
valley  which  runs  throughout  the  district,  and  on  the 
high  grounds  are  several  lochs ;  the  village  is  of  small 
extent,  and  situated  near  the  church,  and  from  it  a 
prospect  is  obtained,  comprehending  the  whole  of  Loch 
Ness,  stretching  for  twenty-four  miles.  The  soil  in 
the  elevated  parts  is  very  superior,  and,  in  seasons  free 
from  frost  and  rain,  produces  excellent  crops  ;  but  the 
low  grounds  are  so  hot  in  summer,  that  the  corn  and 
grass  are  much  injured,  and  in  dry  weather  would  be 
parched  up  were  it  not  for  the  copious  dews  falling  in 
the  night.  The  chief  mansions  are  those  of  Aldourie, 
Eregie,  and  Gortleg.  There  is  a  salmon-fishery  in 
285 


Loch  Ness  and  the  river  Ness,  and  fine  trout,  pike,  and 
char  are  found  in  the  other  lochs  ;  the  parish  also  once 
contained  a  whisky  distillery,  in  which  about  twelve 
hands  were  employed.  The  post-road  from  Inverness 
to  Fort  Augustus  intersects  the  parish  ;  and  Loch  Ness, 
on  the  line  of  the  great  Caledonian  canal,  affords  every 
facility  for  the  importation  of  coal  and  lime,  and  the 
exportation  of  timber  and  wool.  The  produce  is  usually 
sent  for  sale  to  Inverness ;  but  salmon,  sheep,  and 
fat  cattle,  are  conveyed  to  the  London  market.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3165.  Dores 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Inverness  and  synod  of  Mo- 
ray, and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  Cawdor;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £142,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £S  per  annum.  The  church  is  a  neat  edifice, 
built  in  1S27,  and  there  is  a  preaching-station  in  the 
south-western  part  of  the  parish.  The  parochial  school 
affords  instruction  in  the  ordinary  branches  ;  the  mas- 
ter has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and 
£10  fees.  There  is  also  an  Assembly's  school,  and  a 
school  is  supported  by  the  Society  for  Propagating 
Christian  Knowledge.  The  relics  of  antiquity  com- 
prise the  remains  of  a  vitrified  fort  called  Castel-dun- 
Rkhuan,  or  the  Castle  of  the  King  of  the  Ocean  ;  and  a 
little  to  the  east  of  this,  is  an  eminence  called  Drum- 
As  hi,  or  Ashi's  Hill,  where,  according  to  tradition,  Fingal 
fought  with  and  killed  Ashi,  the  son  of  the  Norwegian 
king.  The  distinguished  statesman,  Sir  James  Mackin- 
tosh, author  of  Vindicim  Gallicce,  and  recorder  of  Bombay, 
was  born  here  in  1765. 

DORNIE  and  BUNDALOCH,  a  village,  in  the 
parish  of  Kintail,  county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty, 
7  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Sheilhouse ;  containing  510 
inhabitants.  This  is  a  fishing  village  on  the  banks  of 
a  branch  of  Loch  Duich,  from  which  the  sea  is  entered 
by  Loch  Alsh.  There  is  a  small  bay,  and  Dornie  and 
Bundaloch  immediately  adjoin  each  other,  and  form 
one  village,  in  which  are  some  houses  of  respectable 
appearance  ;  the  scenery  around  is  very  romantic,  and 
above  the  village  are  seen  the  mountains  of  Skye.  In 
the  vicinity  are  the  ruins  of  Ellandonan  Castle,  the 
ancient  seat  of  the  Mackenzies  of  Seaforth,  occupying 
a  rocky  islet  surrounded  by  the  sea  at  flood-tide.  This 
castle  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Alexander  II.,  to 
overawe  the  Danes  and  Norwegians  ;  and  in  the  reign 
of  James  V.,  the  Macdonalds  of  Sleat  in  vain  attempted 
to  besiege  it.  Directly  opposite,  on  the  coast  of  Letter- 
fairn,  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  circular  castle  of 
Gruagach.  On  the  landward  part  of  the  islet  is  a  fresh- 
water spring. 

DORNOCH,  a  royal 
burgh,  the  county  town,  and 
a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Sutherland,  201  miles  (N. 
N.  W.)  from  Edinburgh  ; 
containing  2714  inhabitants, 
of  whom  451  are  in  the 
burgh.  This  place  is  sup- 
posed to  have  derived  its 
name,  Dor-Neich,  signify- 
ing in  the  Celtic  language 
a  horse's  hoof,  from  the 
slaughter  of  a  Danish  gene- 
ral, who  made  a  descent  upon  this  part  of  the  coast  in 
1259,  and  was  encountered  by  William,  Thane  of  Suther- 


Bursh  Seal. 


DORN 


DORN 


land,  who,  having  lost  his  sword  in  the  battle,  seized 
the  leg  of  a  horse  lying  on  the  ground,  with  which  he 
killed  his  adversary,  and  put  his  followers  to  flight.  It 
is  of  considerable  antiquity,  and  in  1150  was  an  epis- 
copal city,  the  residence  of  the  bishops  of  Caithness, 
within  whose  province  the  county  of  Sutherland  was 
included,  and  of  whom  Andrew  is  supposed  to  have 
erected  the  cathedral.  His  successor,  Gilbert  Murray, 
who  was  consecrated  in  1222,  greatly  enlarged  and 
beautified  the  church,  in  which,  upon  his  decease  in 
1245,  at  Caithness,  where  the  bishops  had  also  a  resi- 
dence, a  statue  was  erected  to  his  memory,  under  the 
designation  of  St.  Gilbert.  After  the  death  of  John, 
Earl  of  Sutherland,  and  his  countess,  who  in  156~  were 
both  poisoned  at  Helmsdale,  at  the  instigation  of  the 
Earl  of  Caithness,  Mc  Kay  of  Far,  taking  advantage  of 
the  minority  of  the  young  earl,  then  only  fifteen  years 
of  age,  invaded  the  county  of  Sutherland,  set  fire  to  the 
town  of  Dornoch,  and  laid  waste  the  barony  of  Skibo. 
The  young  ear],  who  then  resided  in  the  castle  of  Skibo, 
was,  through  the  persuasion  of  the  bishop,  given  up  to 
the  Earl  of  Caithness,  by  whom  he  was  carried  off,  and 
subsequently  married  to  his  daughter.  In  1570,  the 
town  and  castle  were  besieged  by  the  Laird  of  Duffus 
and  his  adherents  ;  but  being  obstinately  defended,  they 
set  fire  to  the  cathedra],  which,  with  the  exception  only 
of  the  tower,  was  completely  destroyed.  In  1614,  the 
Earl  of  Sutherland  commenced  rebuilding  the  cathedral, 
which  for  many  years  served  for  a  place  of  worship ;  but 
subsequently  falling  into  decay,  it  was  restored  by  the  late 
Duchess-Countess  of  Sutherland,  during  the  years  1S35, 
6,  7,  8,  and  9,  at  a  great,  expense,  and  with  a  minute 
regard  to  the  original  design ;  and  it  at  present  forms 
one  of  the  most  interesting  religious  edifices  in  the 
kingdom.  The  lower  portion  of  the  structure  contains 
the  tombs  of  the  ancient  earls,  and  those  of  the  late 
Duke  and  Duchess  of  Sutherland. 

The  town  is  situated  on  the  western  shore  of  Dor- 
noch Frith,  at  the  south-eastern  extremity  of  the  parish, 
and  consists  of  several  spacious  well-formed  streets  ; 
the  houses  are  of  very  inferior  order,  little  better  than 
humble  cottages,  and  though  the  county  town,  the  place 
has  only  the  appearance  of  an  insignificant  hamlet. 
There  is  a  respectable  inn  for  the  accommodation  of 
travellers,  at  which  the  mail  stops  daily  in  its  passage 
to  and  from  the  north ;  a  post-office  has  been  esta- 
blished, and  there  are  also  a  bank,  a  savings'  bank,  and 
a  friendly  society.  The  market  has  been  long  declining, 
and  is  now  but  little  frequented ;  fairs  are  held  on  the 
first  Wednesdays  in  February,  July,  November,  and 
December,  for  cattle,  and  on  the  third  Wednesday  in 
March,  and  on  the  20th  of  July  (O.  S.),  if  on  Wednes- 
day, or  if  not,  on  the  first  Wednesday  after.  The  town 
was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh  in  1628,  by  charter  of 
Charles  I.,  under  which  the  government  is  vested  in  a 
provost,  four  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and 
eight  councillors  ;  it  is  also  the  residence  of  the  sheriff- 
substitute  and  his  officers.  There  are  no  incorporated 
trading  companies,  nor  have  the  burgesses  any  exclusive 
privileges ;  the  jurisdiction  of  the  magistrates,  though 
equal  in  extent  to  that  of  royal  burghs,  is  little  more 
than  nominal,  and  few,  if  any,  causes  either  civil  or 
criminal  are  brought  for  their  decision.  The  tower  of 
the  ancient  episcopal  castle  is  appropriated  as  a  court- 
house ;  and  a  new  county  prison  has  been  very  recently 
286 


erected,  possessing  every  requisite  for  the  complete 
classification  and  the  employment  of  prisoners.  The 
burgh  is  associated  with  those  of  Cromarty,  Dingwall, 
Kirkwall,  Tain,  and  ( Wick,  in  returning  a  member  to 
the  imperial  parliament;  the  number  of  qualified  voters 
is  twenty-two. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  east  and  south  by 
Dornoch  Frith,  and  on  the  north-east  by  Loch  Fleet, 
and  is  about  fifteen  miles  in  length,  and  nine  in  breadth. 
The  surface  towards  the  sea  is  generally  flat,  and  in 
other  parts  diversified  with  hills  of  no  very  considerable 
height.  The  principal  rivers  are,  the  Carnaig,  which  rises 
to  the  south  of  Torboll,  and  flows  through  a  strath  into 
Loch  Fleet,  near  the  sands  of  Torboll ;  and  the  Evelix, 
whose  source  is  near  the  head  of  the  valley  through 
which  it  flows,  between  richly-wooded  banks,  into  Dor- 
noch Frith  near  the  Muckle  ferry.  The  coast,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  small  rocks  at  Embo,  to  the 
north  of  the  town,  is  flat  and  sandy.  At  the  south  ex- 
tremity is  the  Muckle  ferry,  connecting  the  parish  with 
the  county  of  Ross  ;  and  at  the  northern  extremity  is 
the  Little  ferry,  forming  an  excellent  harbour  in  Loch 
Fleet,  across  which  an  earthen  mound  nearly  1000  feet  in 
length  has  been  constructed  by  the  parliamentary  com- 
missioners, at  a  cost  of  £12,000,  affording  communica- 
tion between  the  parishes  of  Golspie  and  Dornoch.  The 
rivers  contain  trout,  which  are  also  found  in  several 
small  lakes  among  the  hills.  The  soil,  though  gene- 
rally light,  varies  from  a  sandy  moss  to  clay  alternated 
with  sand ;  the  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes, 
and  turnips.  The  system  of  agriculture  has  been  greatly 
improved  within  the  last  few  years  ;  extensive  tracts  of 
waste  have  been  reclaimed  and  rendered  profitable,  and 
more  than  6000  acres  are  now  arable  and  in  good  cul- 
tivation. The  farm-buildings  are  mostly  substantial  and 
comfortable ;  and  attached  to  several  of  the  farms  are 
threshing-mills,  of  which  some  are  driven  by  water. 
The  cattle  pastured  are  of  the  Highland  black  breed, 
and  the  sheep  chiefly  of  the  Cheviot,  lately  introduced. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3336. 

There  are  many  thousand  acres  of  woodland  on  the 
Sutherland  estate,  consisting  of  Scotch  fir,  larch,  birch, 
alder,  and  various  hard-wood  trees,  all  in  a  thriving 
state.  Coal  has  been  found  at  Clashmore,  and  freestone 
of  good  quality  for  building  occurs  in  various  places ; 
near  the  town  is  a  large  quarry,  and  at  Embo  and  in 
other  parts  of  the  parish  are  quarries  on  a  less  extensive 
scale.  Skibo  Castle,  a  modern  structure,  erected  on 
the  site  of  the  ancient  castle  of  that  name,  is  a  hand- 
some family  residence.  The  chief  villages  are,  the  fish- 
ing village  of  Embo,  situated  on  the  coast  between  the 
town  of  Dornoch  and  the  Little  ferry,  and  the  pleasant 
village  of  Clashmore,  in  which  is  a  commodious  inn, 
about  three  miles  to  the  north  of  the  Muckle  ferry,  and 
the  same  distance  from  Dornoch.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery 
of  Dornoch  and  synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caithness. 
The  minister's  stipend  is  £266.  13.,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £10  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Duke  of 
Sutherland.  The  church,  formerly  the  cathedral,  is  a 
venerable  structure  containing  1 100  sittings.  A  place 
of  worship  has  recently  been  erected  for  the  members  of 
the  Free  Church.  The  parochial  school  is  held  in  a 
portion  of  the  episcopal  palace  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £6. 


D  O  R  N 


DOUG 


There  are  some  remains  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Skelbo, 
on  an  eminence  rising  from  the  sea  near  the  Little  ferry; 
and  the  cross  erected  in  commemoration  of  the  exploit 
from  which  the  burgh  is  supposed  to  have  taken  its 
name,  and  to  which  the  common  seal  has  an  allusion,  is, 
though  much  defaced,  still  remaining. 

DORNOCK,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dumfries  ; 
including  the  village  of  Lowthertown,  and  containing 
S47  inhabitants,  of  whom  203  are  in  the  village,  2  miles 
(E.  by  S.)  from  Annan.  The  name  of  this  place  is 
usually  derived  from  the  Celtic  words  tor  or  dor,  sig- 
nifying an  oak  or  wood,  and  nock,  a  knowe  or  hill,  and 
is  said  to  have  been  applied  in  consequence  of  the  forests 
of  oak  once  growing  here.  According  to  a  prevailing 
tradition,  a  battle  was  fought  upon  a  moor  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, between  a  party  of  English  under  Sir  Mar- 
maduke  Langdale  and  Lord  Crosby,  and  a  body  of 
Scots  under  Sir  William  Brown,  of  Coalston,  in  which 
the  English  were  defeated,  and  both  their  commanders 
slain.  The  supposed  graves  of  the  two  leaders  are  still 
shown  in  the  churchyard,  and  a  spring  near  the  spot 
where  the  battle  was  fought  bears  the  name  of  the 
Sword  well.  At  Stapleton  is  a  strong  square  tower, 
with  battlements  on  the  top,  built  by  a  person  of  the 
name  of  Irvine,  it  is  supposed  as  a  place  of  safety 
against  the  depredations  of  the  English  borderers.  The 
parish  reaches  from  east  to  west  about  two  miles  and 
a  half,  and  from  the  Solway  Frith,  on  the  south,  to  the 
river  Kirtle,  on  the  north,  measures  five  miles,  com- 
prising about  5000  acres.  It  contains  some  beautiful 
scenery,  and  is  much  frequented  for  its  sea  air  and 
bathing,  its  extent  along  the  coast  being  about  three 
miles.  The  small  river  Kirtle  and  the  Solway  com- 
prehend the  chief  of  its  waters  ;  in  the  former  eels  and 
pike  are  found,  and  in  the  latter,  salmon  in  considerable 
quantity,  though  not  in  such  abundance  as  formerly. 

The  whole  of  the  land  is  under  tillage,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  such  portions  as  are  necessary  to  support 
farm-stock  ;  the  mosses,  which  alone  are  uncultivated, 
amount  to  about  300  acres,  and  150  acres  are  planta- 
tion. Oats  and  barley  are  the  only  grain  sown,  and 
potatoes  and  turnips,  with  large  quantities  of  hay,  are 
the  chief  green  crops,  and  all  are  of  very  good  quality  ; 
the  soil  is  in  general  productive,  and  is  of  a  loamy 
nature,  with  a  hard  tilly  bottom.  The  cattle  are  of  the 
Galloway  breed,  and  about  200  cows  are  kept  for  the 
dairy ;  a  considerable  number  of  swine  are  annually 
fattened,  and  are  salted,  made  into  hams,  and  sent  to 
England.  The  best  system  of  husbandry  is  adopted ; 
the  manure  used  is  farm-yard  dung  and  lime ;  draining 
has  been  carried  on  to  a  good  extent,  and  improvements 
are  still  in  progress.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £3503.  Robgill  Tower,  an  old  border  fortress, 
modernised,  and  now  the  residence  of  the  Smail  family, 
is  beautifully  seated  on  the  banks  of  the  Kirtle.  The 
village  of  Dornock  is  pleasantly  situated  upon  a  gentle 
eminence  about  a  mile  from  the  coast,  and  commands 
a  fine  view  of  the  Frith ;  a  third  of  the  inhabitants  are 
engaged  in  hand-loom  weaving  and  the  manufacture  of 
checks  and  ginghams.  The  great  turnpike-road  from 
Carlisle  to  Portpatrick  runs  through  the  centre  of  the 
parish  from  east  to  west ;  a  mail  passes  daily,  and  a 
coach  to  Edinburgh  travels  three  times  a  week  through 
the  village.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed 
by  the  presbytery  of  Annan  and  synod  of  Dumfries ; 


patron,  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch.  There  is  a  manse,  built 
in  1S45,  with  a  glebe  valued  at  £25  per  annum,  and  the 
stipend  is  £20S.  The  church,  built  in  1797,  is  a  plain 
unadorned  structure,  containing  300  sittings :  in  the 
churchyard  are  some  ancient  and  very  curious  tomb- 
stones. There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  all  the 
usual  branches  of  education,  and  sometimes  Greek  and 
Latin,  and  also  mathematics,  are  taught ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  about  £20  fees,  and  the  allow- 
ance of  a  house  and  garden,  with  an  acre  of  land.  The 
remains  of  a  Druidical  temple  exist  in  the  eastern  part 
of  the  parish,  on  the  farm  of  Eastiiggs  ;  at  the  distance 
of  about  200  yards  west  of  it,  is  a  large  cairn  ;  and  at 
the  same  distance  eastward  is  another,  of  smaller  dimen- 
sions. Old  British  coins  and  pieces  of  armour  are  some- 
times found. 

DOUGLAS,  a  market-town  and  parish,  in  the  Upper 
ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  including  the  village  of 
Uddington,  and  containing  2467  inhabitants,  of  whom 
1313  are  in  the  town  of  Douglas,  5  miles  (S.  S.  E.)  from 
Crawfordjohn,  and  40|  (S.  W.  by  S.)  from  Edinburgh. 
This  place  derives  its  name  from  the  ancient  and  re- 
nowned family  of  Douglas,  to  whose  ancestor  Theobald, 
by  birth  a  Fleming,  Arnold,  abbot  of  Kelso,  gave  a  large 
tract  of  land  about  the  middle  of  the  twelfth  century. 
William,  son  of  Theobald,  appears  as  a  witness  to 
various  charters  granted  towards  the  close  of  that  cen- 
tury ;  and  in  12S9  his  descendant,  William  Douglas, 
was  one  of  the  Scottish  barons  who  signed  an  address 
to  Edward  I.  of  England,  on  behalf  of  their  countrymen. 
During  the  protracted  warfare  between  England  and 
Scotland  in  the  reign  of  that  monarch,  Douglas  Castle, 
which  was  strongly  fortified,  and  commanded  the  en- 
trance to  the  western  counties,  was  an  object  of  conti- 
nual dispute  between  the  contending  parties.  It  fre- 
quently fell  into  the  hands  of  the  English,  from  whom 
it  was  as  frequently  retaken  by  its  original  proprietors. 
On  one  occasion  it  was  taken  from  Sir  John  De  Walton, 
who  held  it  for  the  English,  by  Sir  James  Douglas, 
who,  having  assembled  a  strong  retinue  of  his  friends, 
entered  the  town  on  Palm-Sunday,  while  part  of  the 
garrison  were  at.  church,  and  attacking  them  as  they 
came  out,  put  them  to  the  sword,  and,  immediately  ad- 
vancing to  the  castle,  made  himself  master  of  the  place. 
The  castle,  exposed  to  continual  assaults,  was  of  very 
precarious  tenure,  and,  from  the  difficulty  of  maintain- 
ing possession,  was  distinguished  by  the  appellation  of 
the  Castle  of  Danger.  It  was  often  destroyed,  and  more 
than  once  by  fire ;  but  it  was  always  restored,  and  con- 
tinued in  the  possession  of  the  earls  of  Douglas  till 
1455,  when  it  was  forfeited,  together  with  the  estates, 
and  granted  to  the  Earl  of  Angus,  in  whose  family  it 
remained  till  the  death  of  the  Duke  of  Douglas  in  17  60. 
The  issue  of  the  famous  Douglas  cause  now  vested  the 
estate  in  the  duke's  nephew  ;  and  in  1790  the  title,  which 
had  become  extinct,  was  revived  by  the  elevation  of 
Mr.  Douglas  to  the  peerage,  by  the  title  of  Baron 
Douglas,  of  Douglas. 

The  parish  is  situated  near  the  south-western  extre- 
mity of  the  county,  and  is  about  twelve  miles  in  length, 
and  from  four  to  seven  miles  in  breadth,  comprising 
35,318  acres,  of  which  about  5000  are  arable,  2S,000 
pasture,  2000  wood,  and  400  waste  land  and  moss.  The 
Douglas  river  intersects  the  parish,  flowing  through  a 
valley  which  increases  in  breadth  as  it  approaches  the 


DOUG 


DOUG 


river  Clyde,  into  which  the  Douglas  discharges  itself, 
after  receiving  in  its  course  numerous  tributary  streams. 
The  ground  on  both  sides  of  the  valley  rises  to  a  consi- 
derable elevation,  forming  in  some  parts  a  succession  of 
hills  which  terminate  towards  the  west  in  the  Cairntable 
mountain,  whose  summit  is  1650  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  and  at  the  base  of  which  the  Douglas  has  its 
source.  The  heights  on  each  side  of  the  river  are  em- 
bellished with  ornamental  plantations ;  and  in  various 
parts  of  the  parish  are  extensive  woods  of  ancient  and 
luxuriant  growth,  especially  near  Douglas  Castle,  in  the 
grounds  of  which  are  some  ash  and  plane  trees  of  large 
dimensions.  The  soil  is  generally  fertile  in  the  vale  ; 
in  other  parts  lighter  and  gravelly,  and  in  some  a  stiff 
clay ;  and  the  moors,  though  partly  marshy,  afford  fine 
sheep-walks,  and  in  many  places  consist  of  rich  black 
loam.  The  principal  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  and  bear, 
with  occasionally  wheat,  the  cultivation  of  which  has 
been  recently  introduced  with  success,  but  on  a  very 
small  scale  ;  turnips  and  potatoes,  for  which  the  soil  is 
favourable,  are  raised  in  large  quantities.  The  pastures 
are  very  extensive  and  rich,  and  great  numbers  of  sheep 
are  reared,  to  the  improvement  of  which  much  atten- 
tion is  paid  ;  the  average  number  exceeds  25,000,  chiefly 
of  the  black-faced  breed,  which  has  been  brought  to 
great  perfection.  The  parish  contains  numerous  dairy- 
farms,  producing  cheese  and  butter  of  superior  quality  ; 
the  cows,  of  which  the  number  kept  is  about  500,  are 
the  Ayrshire,  and  about  the  same  number  of  black-cattle 
are  fed.  There  are  quarries  of  freestone  of  excellent 
quality,  for  building;  it  is  of  a  fine  white  colour,  and  is 
much  admired.  Limestone  is  also  prevalent,  and  is 
quarried  for  manure  and  other  purposes  ;  coal  is  very 
abundant,  and  numerous  mines  have  been  opened,  af- 
fording supplies  of  fuel  to  the  places  situated  to  the 
south  and  east,  and  giving  employment  to  a  great  num- 
ber of  the  population.  Ironstone  is  found  in  several 
parts  of  the  parish,  though  not  worked  ;  and  in  others 
its  prevalence  may  be  inferred  from  the  property  of 
many  of  the  springs,  which  are  strongly  impregnated 
with  that  mineral.  Great  advances  have  been  made  in 
draining  and  inclosing  the  lands,  and  the  rateable  an- 
nual value  of  the  parish  is  now  £1 1,013. 

Douglas  Castle,  the  seat  of  Lord  Douglas,  is  beauti- 
fully situated  in  grounds  that  were  very  much  improved 
by  the  late  proprietor.  The  castle,  which  was  partly 
rebuilt,  after  being  destroyed  by  an  accidental  fire,  has 
not,  though  a  splendid  seat  in  its  present  state,  been 
completed  according  to  the  original  plan  designed  by 
Mr.  Adam  ;  one  wing  only  has  been  finished,  and  from 
the  dimensions  of  this,  which  contains  more  than  fifty 
apartments,  some  of  them  magnificent,  the  whole  would 
have  formed  one  of  the  most  extensive  residences  in  the 
kingdom.  The  scene  of  Castle-Dangerous,  the  last  novel 
of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  was  laid  here.  The  other  gen- 
tlemen's seats  in  the  parish  are,  Carmacoup,  Spring 
Hill,  and  Crossburn  House,  an  elegant  villa,  of  which 
the  grounds  are  tastefully  disposed.  The  town  or  vil- 
lage is  of  very  great  antiquity,  and  was  formerly  of 
some  importance.  As  the  head  of  the  barony,  it  had 
a  charter  of  incorporation  giving  to  its  magistrates  many 
privileges,  among  which  was  the  power  of  jurisdiction 
in  capital  offences ;  and  to  the  east  of  the  town  is  an 
eminence  called  Gallow  Hill,  formerly  the  place  for  the 
execution  of  criminals.  The  streets  are  narrow,  and 
288 


most  of  the  houses  are  of  ancient  date,  and  apparently 
built  for  defence  against  the  frequent  incursions  of  an 
enemy  ;  the  walls  are  massive,  and  the  windows  few 
and  rather  small,  presenting  a  forbidding  and  gloomy 
appearance.  A  subscription  library  has  been  founded, 
which  at  present  contains  more  than  1000  volumes,  and 
is  rapidly  increasing.  A  cotton-factory  was  established 
here  in  1792,  by  a  company  from  Glasgow,  which  after 
a  few  years  declined  ;  but  many  of  the  inhabitants  are 
still  employed  in  weaving  cotton  for  the  manufacturers 
of  that  city,  with  handlooms  in  their  own  dwellings. 
The  market  is  held  on  Friday,  and  there  are  seven  fairs, 
which  are  well  attended.  The  road  from  Edinburgh  to 
Ayr,  and  that  from  Glasgow  to  London,  pass  through 
the  parish,  affording  facility  of  intercourse  with  the 
principal  towns  in  the  neighbourhood ;  but  as  a  place 
of  trade,  the  town  is  at  present  little  more  than  a  vil- 
lage for  the  residence  of  persons  employed  in  weaving, 
and  in  other  mechanical  occupations. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Lanark  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £250 ; 
the  manse  is  a  handsome  residence,  built  in  1S28,  and 
pleasantly  situated  in  grounds  well  laid  out,  and  the 
glebe  comprises  some  valuable  land.  Of  the  ancient 
church,  which  appears  to  have  been  a  very  stately  and 
elegant  structure,  little  more  remains  than  the  sepul- 
chral chapel  of  the  Douglas  family,  with  a  small  spire  ; 
it  contains  many  monuments,  which,  though  much  mu- 
tilated and  defaced  by  Cromwell's  soldiers  during  the 
usurpation,  still  display  features  of  exquisite  sculpture. 
Among  them  is  the  monument  of  Sir  James  Douglas, 
the  firm  adherent  and  friend  of  Robert  Bruce,  who  fell 
in  combat,  in  Spain,  and  whose  remains  were  conveyed 
by  his  companions  in  arms  for  interment  in  the  church 
of  his  native  place.  It  is  of  dark-coloured  stone,  and 
bears  the  recumbent  figure  of  a  knight  armed  cap-a  pie, 
with  the  legs  crossed,  in  reference  to  his  having  been  on 
a  crusade  to  the  Holy  Land.  There  is  also  a  monument 
to  Archibald  Douglas,  Duke  of  Touraine,  which  appears 
to  have  been  of  elaborate  workmanship  ;  and  in  a  niche 
is  a  table  monument  to  James  Douglas,  Duke  of  Tou- 
raine, with  two  recumbent  figures,  and  ornamented 
with  ten  figures  in  basso-relievo  beneath.  The  present 
church,  a  comparatively  modern  building,  is  not  suffi- 
ciently spacious  for  the  accommodation  of  the  parish- 
ioners :  underneath  it  is  a  vault  in  which  are  depo- 
sited the  remains  of  numerous  members  of  the  Douglas 
family,  for  which  the  ancient  sepulchral  chapel  afforded 
no  room.  The  parochial  school  is  well  attended ;  the 
master  has  the  maximum  salary,  with  an  excellent 
dwelling-house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  amount  to 
about  £60.  Near  the  base  of  Cairntable  mountain, 
are  the  remains  of  a  fortified  post,  probably  occupied 
by  the  Douglases  during  their  repeated  attempts  to  sur- 
prise the  English  garrisons  that  so  frequently  held  pos- 
session of  Douglas  Castle;  and  within  a  mile  of  the  castle 
are  the  remains  of  a  stronghold  called  Tothorl  Castle, 
supposed  to  have  been  thrown  up  by  Sir  Richard  de 
Thirlwall,  who  was  lieutenant-governor  of  Douglas 
under  Sir  Robert  de  Clifford.  Within  the  castle-grounds 
is  a  mound  designated  Boncastle,  near  which  has  been 
found  an  urn,  with  a  great  number  of  human  bones, 
a  ring  of  pure  gold  of  great  weight,  the  head  of  a  spear, 
and  various   other  relics  of  antiquity.     There  are  also 


D  O  U  N 


DOUN 


several  cairns  in  the  parish.  Among  the  most  distin- 
guished natives  of  this  place,  for  literary  attainments, 
was  Dr.  John  Black,  author  of  the  Life  of  Tasso  and 
other  works. 

DOUGLAS,  CASTLE.— See  Castle-Douglas. 

DOUGLASTON,  a  manufacturing  village,  in  the 
parish  of  Kinnettles,  county  of  Forfar,  3  miles 
(S.  W.)  from  Forfar;  containing  SI  inhabitants.  This 
place  derives  its  name  from  the  late  Robert  Douglas, 
Esq.,  by  whom  it  was  erected  in  1/92,  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  persons  employed  in  his  extensive 
works.  A  spinning-mill,  of  stone,  roofed  with  blue  slate 
from  the  quarries  of  the  parish,  and  four  stories  in 
height,  was  completed  here  towards  the  close  of  the  last 
century  ;  and  the  introduction  of  the  spinning  of  yarn, 
which  furnished  employment  to  a  considerable  number 
of  hands,  was  followed  up  by  the  erection  of  looms  for 
weaving  the  yarn  into  various  fabrics,  of  which  the 
principal  were  Osnaburgs,  Hessians,  and  brown  and 
bleached  sheetings.  The  machinery  is  of  the  most  im- 
proved kind,  and  is  propelled  partly  by  a  steam-engine 
of  seven-horse  power,  and  partly  by  water-power  equal 
to  that  of  five  horses.  The  village  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  banks  of  the  Kerbit  rivulet,  over  which  is  a  very 
handsome  stone  bridge  of  three  arches,  erected  in  the 
year  1770.  A  branch  post  between  Forfar  and  Glammis 
delivers  letters  here  ;  and  the  turnpike-road  from  Dun- 
dee to  Forfar,  and  also  the  Strathmore  road,  pass  through 
the  villaae. 

DOUNE,  a  town,  in  the  parish  of  Kilmadock, 
county  of  Perth,  S  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Stirling,  and  44 
(N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Edinburgh  ;  containing  1559  inha- 
bitants. This  place,  which  is  situated  on  the  banks  of 
the  river  Teith,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Ardoch, 
owes  its  origin  to  a  castle  founded  here,  according  to 
some,  but  disputed,  accounts,  by  Murdoch,  grandson  of 
Robert  II.,  and  who  in  1370  was  created  Earl  of  Mon- 
teith,  and  in  1398  Duke  of  Albany.  Murdoch  was 
taken  prisoner  by  the  English,  at  the  battle  of  Homel- 
den,  in  1401,  and  detained  in  captivity  till  the  year 
1411,  when  he  was  exchanged  for  Percy,  Earl  of  North- 
umberland, from  which  time  he  continued  to  live  in  re- 
tirement till  the  death  of  his  father  in  1420,  when  he 
succeeded  to  the  regency,  which,  however,  after  a  dis- 
astrous government  of  four  years,  he  resigned.  Subse- 
quently a  charge  of  high  treason  was  preferred  against 
him,  his  two  sons,  Walter  and  Alexander,  and  his  father- 
in-law,  Duncan,  Earl  of  Lennox,  who  were  all  seized 
and  carried  prisoners  to  Stirling,  where,  after  being 
brought  to  trial  and  found  guilty,  they  were  beheaded. 
Isabella,  the  wife  of  Murdoch,  was  taken  from  the 
castle  of  Doune,  and  conveyed  to  that  of  Tantallan,  in 
Lothian,  where,  upon  their  decapitation,  the  heads  of 
her  father,  husband,  and  children  were  sent  to  her  in 
her  prison,  with  a  view  to  extort  a  revelation  of  the 
alleged  treason  ;  but  she  heroically  replied,  that  "  if  the 
crime  alleged  against  the  parties  were  true,  the  king  had 
done  justly  and  according  to  law." 

The  castle  of  Doune  was  seized  by  James  I.,  and 
annexed  to  the  crown,  of  which  it  continued  to  form  an 
appendage  till  the  year  1502,  when  Margaret,  daughter 
of  Henry  VII.  of  England,  on  her  marriage  to  James  IV., 
obtained  it  as  part  of  her  settlement.  After  the  death 
of  James  IV.,  Margaret  married,  in  152S,  Henry,  Lord 
Methven,  a  descendant  of  Murdoch,  Duke  of  Albany, 
Vol.  I.— 289 


and,  with  the  consent  of  her  husband,  granted  to  James 
Stuart,  a  younger  brother  of  Lord  Methven,  the  con- 
stableship  of  the  castle  for  life.  This  grant  was  con- 
firmed to  him  and  to  his  heirs  for  ever,  by  James  V., 
and  the  office  is  still  held  by  his  descendant,  the  pre- 
sent Earl  of  Moray.  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  and  her 
husband,  Lord  Darnley,  frequently  made  the  castle 
their  resort  as  a  hunting-seat;  and  in  1745  it  was  gar- 
risoned by  Mc  Gregor  of  Glengyle,  nephew  of  Rob  Roy, 
who  held  it  for  Prince  Charles  Edward.  A  party  of 
royalist  volunteers  from  the  university  of  Edinburgh, 
among  whom  was  Home,  the  author  of  Douglas,  having 
in  one  of  their  excursions  ventured  as  far  as  the  Teith, 
were  all  captured  by  Glengyle,  and  confined  in  the 
castle,  from  which  they  ultimately  effected  their  escape 
by  climbing  over  the  walls,  as  related  by  Mr.  Home  in 
his  History  of  the  Rebellion  of  1745.  The  remains,  situ- 
ated on  a  peninsular  eminence,  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Teith  and  Ardoch,  convey  a  tolerably  adequate  idea  of 
the  ancient  magnificence  of  the  castle  ;  the  walls,  though 
roofless,  are  still  entire,  forty  feet  in  height  and  ten  feet. 
in  thickness,  inclosing  a  quadrilateral  area  ninety-six 
feet  in  length,  and  of  equal  breadth.  In  the  north-east 
angle  is  a  massive  tower  eighty  feet  in  height,  and  at 
the  opposite  angle  is  another  tower,  forty  feet  high. 
The  great  hall  is  sixty-three  feet  in  length,  and  twenty- 
five  feet  wide  ;  and  the  kitchen,  and  many  of  the  family 
apartments,  are  spacious  and  in  tolerable  preservation. 
In  the  lower  portions  of  the  building  are  several  cells 
and  dungeons  of  frightful  appearance ;  the  whole  of 
the  ruins  have  a  stately  and  imposing  aspect,  and,  from 
their  situation,  form  a  strikingly  romantic  feature  in 
the  scenery. 

The  town,  which  has  been  much  improved  since  the 
establishment  of  the  cotton-works  in  the  adjacent  village 
of  Dcanston,  consists  principally  of  three  streets  diverg- 
ing from  the  market  cross,  which  is  situated  on  the  spot 
where  the  roads  from  Bridge  of  Teith  and  Callander 
meet.  The  houses  are  generally  of  neat  appearance, 
and  several  of  the  more  modern  of  handsome  character. 
The  manufacture  of  Highland  pistols  was  formerly  car- 
ried on  here  to  a  great  extent,  and  thus  the  town  was 
in  high  reputation  ;  the  pistols  made  varied  in  price 
from  two  to  twenty-four  guineas  per  pair,  and  were 
supplied  to  most  of  the  nobility  of  Europe.  The  manu- 
facture of  Highland  purses  was  also  extensive,  but  these 
have  totally  disappeared,  and  the  population  is  at  pre- 
sent chiefly  employed  in  agriculture  or  in  the  adjacent 
manufactory.  A  post-office  is  established  here,  which 
has  a  tolerable  delivery  ;  and  there  is  a  savings'  bank  in 
the  town.  Fairs  are  held  on  the  second  Wednesday  in 
February,  for  the  sale  of  grain  and  for  general  business; 
the  second  Wednesday  in  May,  for  milch  cows  and 
cattle ;  the  last  Wednesday  in  July,  for  horses  and 
cattle,  the  hiring  of  shearers,  and  other  business ;  the 
first  Tuesday  and  Wednesday  in  November,  for  sheep 
and  black-cattle  ;  the  last  Wednesday  in  that  month, 
for  horses  and  cattle  ;  and  the  last  Wednesday  in 
December,  for  fat  cattle,  grain,  and  general  business. 
Facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  parish  and 
turnpike  roads,  as  well  as  by  the  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow 
railway,  to  which  there  are  regular  conveyances.  The 
members  of  the  Free  Church  have  two  places  of  wor- 
ship. Doune  gives  the  title  of  Baron  to  the  Earl  of 
Moray. — See  Kilmadock. 

2  P 


D  R  A  I 


D  R  A  I 


DOURA,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kilwinning, 
district  of  Cunninghams,  county  of  Ayr,  3|  miles 
(N.  E.  by  E.)  from  Irvine  ;  containing  320  inhabitants. 
This  place  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Irvine  to  Dun- 
lop,  and  between  the  Annock  water  on  the  south-east 
and  the  Lugton  river  on  the  west;  the  population  is 
chiefly  employed  in  the  coal-mines  in  the  vicinity.  A 
branch  of  the  Glasgow  and  Ayr  railway,  proceeding 
from  the  collieries  here,  supplies  Ardrossan  and  various 
other  places  with  coal,  which  is  very  abundant  in  the 
parish.  Large  school  premises,  with  a  play-ground, 
and  a  house  for  the  master,  have  lately  been  erected, 
at  the  expense  of  the  Earl  of  Eglinton. 

DOVECOTLAND,  a  village,  in  the  East  parish  of 
the  city  and  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  502  inha- 
bitants.— See  Perth. 

DOVEHILL,  a  village,  in  the  Abbey  parish  of  the 
town  of  Paisley  ;  forming  part  of  the  late  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Levern,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Ren- 
frew, and  containing  131  inhabitants. 

DOWALLY,  county  of  Perth. — See  Dunkeld. 
DOWNIES,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Banchory- 
Devenick,  county  of  Kincardine,  S  miles  (S.)  from 
Aberdeen  ;  containing  122  inhabitants.  It  is  a  small 
fishing-village,  on  the  eastern  coast,  and  lying  in  the 
extreme  south  point  of  the  parish.  There  is  a  very 
convenient  cove  here  for  fishing-boats,  of  which  several 
belong  to  the  place,  each  manned  with  four  or  five 
hands,  employed  in  white-fishing,  and  sometimes  visit- 
ing the  Moray  Frith  in  the  herring  season. 

DRAINIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Elgin;  includ- 
ing the  villages  of  Lossiemouth  and  Stotfield,  and  con- 
taining 1515  inhabitants,  of  whom  16  are  in  the  hamlet 
of  Drainie,  4  miles  (N.)  from  Elgin.  This  parish  con- 
sists of  the  ancient  parishes  of  Kinnedar,  a  parsonage, 
and  Ogston,  a  mensal  church,  of  which  latter,  disjoined 
from  St.  Andrew's,  and  annexed  to  Kinnedar,  in  1642, 
the  Bishop  of  Moray  received  the  great  teinds  :  the  name 
of  Drainie,  belonging  to  an  estate  on  which  a  new  church 
was  built  about  the  year  1666,  was  after  that  event 
applied  to  the  whole  parish.  The  parish  is  partly  a 
peninsula,  as  its  ancient  name  of  Kinnedar  implies,  and 
is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Moray  Frith,  on  the  east 
by  the  river  Lossie,  and  on  the  south  by  the  lake  of  Spynie, 
a  piece  of  fresh  water  three  miles  in  length  and  one  in 
breadth,  well  stocked  with  eels  and  pike,  and  the  resort 
of  numerous  aquatic  birds.  It  is  about  four  miles  long 
and  two  broad,  and  comprises  4480  acres,  of  which 
3385  are  in  tillage,  365  underwood,  and  the  remainder 
uncultivated.  The  coast  is  bold  and  rocky ;  and  at  the 
distance  of  a  mile  from  the  shore,  opposite  to  the  Coulard 
and  Causea  hills,  is  a  dangerous  reef,  the  dread  of 
mariners,  the  centre  of  which,  however,  being  always 
above  water,  serves  as  a  beacon  for  avoiding  the  lower 
branches,  stretching  along  unseen  to  a  considerable  dis- 
tance on  each  side.  There  is  a  harbour  at  the  village  of 
Lossiemouth,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  the  nume- 
rous caves  and  fissures  near  the  hamlet,  of  Causea  or 
Cove-sea,  constitute  a  distinct  and  interesting  feature. 
The  whole  of  the  rock  in  this  latter  direction  is  a  con- 
tinuous mass  of  freestone,  the  softer  parts  of  which,  by 
the  action  of  the  winds  and  waves,  have  been  wrought 
into  a  great  variety  of  arches  and  pillars  ;  a  little  to  the 
west  is  a  cave,  once  the  cell  of  a  hermit,  and  used  by 
Sir  Robert  Gordon  in  the  rebellion  of  1745,  for  conceal- 
290 


ing  his  horses,  when  the  followers  of 'Prince  Charles 
were  ravaging  this  district,  and  farther  in  the  same 
direction  are  many  other  caverns,  but  the  coast  is  too 
rugged  and  dangerous  to  allow  them  to  be  explored. 

All  the  low  lands  in  the  parish  were  formerly  covered 
by  the  sea,  which,  when  it  receded,  left  a  beach  of  stones 
rising  from  eight  to  twenty  feet  in  height  above  the  level 
of  the  lands  under  tillage,  and  which  is  beneficial  as  a 
protection  from  the  storms  on  the  north.  The  interior 
is  flat,  and  the  soil  of  great  diversity  of  quality,  good 
and  bad  alternating  with  each  other  in  rapid  succession 
throughout.  The  low-drained  grounds  consist  of  a  rich 
loam  or  clayey  marl,  and  produce  fine  crops  ;  the  higher 
lands  have  a  lighter  soil,  resting  upon  a  gravelly  bed  or 
on  white  sand,  and  the  central  portion  is  of  the  worst 
description,  having  been  denuded  of  its  surface  for  the 
purposes  of  fuel.  The  usual  white  and  green  crops 
are  raised,  in  some  parts  of  superior  quality,  and  the 
six-shift  course  is  followed  ;  but  husbandry  is  in  a  com- 
paratively low  state,  very  little  land  having  undergone 
the  process  of  draining,  and  some  of  the  modern  im- 
provements being  only  partially  in  operation.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5208.  The  freestone 
from  the  Causea  quarries  supplies  abundance  of  stone, 
which  has  been  extensively  used  for  ornamental  work  in 
the  mansions  of  this  and  several  adjacent  counties  ;  and 
in  the  fluor-spar  rocks  of  the  Coulard  hill,  lead  has  been 
discovered  of  superior  quality,  near  which  there  is  a  bed 
of  limestone.  A  vein  of  lead  was  found  and  worked 
about  the  close  of  the  last  century,  but  the  operation  was 
discontinued,  the  return  being  found  inadequate  to  the 
expense.  The  plantations,  of  very  limited  extent,  con- 
sist of  fir  irregularly  scattered  about  the  waste  tract  in 
the  middle  of  the  parish,  and  one  or  two  clumps  in  the 
south-east.  The  mansion  of  Gordonstown,  situated  on 
the  estate  of  that  name,  the  seat  of  the  Cummings,  is  a 
large  structure  in  the  Dutch  style,  repaired  and  enlarged 
in  1730,  and  the  residence  for  several  centuries  of  the 
Gordons,  of  Gordonstown. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Elgin  and  synod  of 
Moray,  and  in  the  patronage  of  Sir  William  Gordon 
Gordon  Cumming,  of  Altyre  and  Gordonstown,  Bart. ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £242,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
of  six  acres.  The  present  church  was  built  in  1823, 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  but  somewhat  incon- 
veniently for  the  villages,  where  the  bulk  of  the  popula- 
tion, which  is  rapidly  increasing,  is  situated.  The  paro- 
chial school,  in  the  western  portion  of  the  parish,  affords 
instruction  in  the  usual  branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £36,  with  £6  fees,  and  also  participates  in  the  benefit 
of  the  Dick  bequest.  A  charitable  fund,  raised  by  sub- 
scription in  1806,  for  the  benefit  of  the  families  of  twenty- 
one  seamen  who  lost  their  lives  in  a  storm,  till  lately 
afforded  relief  to  the  objects  for  whom  the  collection  was 
made,  by  an  annual  distribution  of  the  proceeds.  There 
is  a  burial-ground  containing  a  stone  cross  eight,  feet  high, 
at  the  west-end  of  the  parish,  covered  with  grave-stones, 
and  formerly  the  site  of  the  ancient  church  of  Ogston  ; 
here  now  stands  the  splendid  mausoleum  of  the  Gordon 
family,  and  about  half  a  mile  to  the  east  is  the  ruin  of  a 
church  built,  in  1666.  A  mile  farther  eastward  is  the 
burial-ground  of  Kinnedar,  where  stood  the  church  of 
that  name,  the  foundations  of  which  are  now  scarcely  dis- 
cernible ;  and  adjoining  are  the  remains  of  the  castle  of 
Kinnedar,  a  very  strong  and  extensive  fortification,  called 


D  R  E  G 


D  R  O  N 


also  the  episcopal  palace,  where  Archibald,  the  tenth 
bishop  of  Moray,  and  other  bishops,  resided  before  the 
cathedral  was  fixed  at  Spynie.  On  the  summit  of  the 
Causea  hills  is  a  range  of  artificial  conical  mounds  of 
earth,  styled  the  "  warlike  hills,"  at  nearly  equal  distances, 
and  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  height,  constructed  for 
signal  stations,  and  used  at  different  periods  by  the  pos- 
sessors of  the  lands  for  communicating  important  inform- 
ation and  various  other  purposes. 

DREGHORN,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cunning- 
hame,  county  of  Ayr,  2  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from  Irvine  ; 
containing  1222  inhabitants.  This  place  anciently  formed 
part  of  the  property  of  the  De  Morvilles,  constables  of 
Scotland,  whose  ancestor  appears  to  have  obtained  large 
possessions  here  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  I.,  and  from 
whose  family  it  passed,  with  the  heiress  of  William  de 
Morville,  to  Ronald,  Lord  of  Galloway.  Ronald's  grand- 
daughter, Helen,  early  in  the  thirteenth  century,  married 
Roger  de  Quincy,  Earl  of  Winchester,  who,  in  her  right, 
became  constable  of  Scotland,  and  proprietor  of  the  De 
Morville  estates  ;  and  the  lands  were  subsequently  con- 
veyed, by  marriage  with  his  daughters,  co-heiresses,  to 
William  de  Ferrars  and  Alan  de  la  Zouch,  ancestors  of  the 
present  Marquess  Townshend  and  the  lords  Ashby-de-la- 
Zouch,  in  the  county  of  Leicester.  The  estates,  however, 
were  soon  after  forfeited  to  the  crown,  from  the  adher- 
ence of  those  noblemen  to  the  interests  of  John  Baliol ; 
and  the  barony  of  Dreghorn  was  granted  by  Robert 
Bruce  to  Sir  Alan  Stewart,  who  was  killed  in  the  battle 
of  Hallidown  Hill,  and  whose  descendants,  afterwards 
earls  of  Darnley  and  Lennox,  retained  possession  of  it 
till  the  year  1520.  It  then  became  the  property  of 
Hugh,  first  earl  of  Eglinton,  and  his  descendant  is  the 
present  proprietor.  The  parish  is  about  eight  miles  in 
length,  and  varies  from  three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  two 
miles  in  breadth  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  west  and  north 
by  the  Annock  water,  on  the  east  by  the  Gawreer  burn, 
and  on  the  south  by  the  Irvine  river.  It  comprises 
4477  acres,  of  which  1500  are  arable,  2750  meadow  and 
pasture,  and  about  120  woodland  and  plantations.  The 
surface  is  level  towards  the  sea,  and  rises  in  gentle  un- 
dulations  inland  ;  the  scenery  throughout  is  pleasingly 
picturesque,  and  the  banks  of  the  Annock  abound  with 
natural  beauty,  heightened  by  several  handsome  villas 
and  seats  embosomed  in  thriving  plantations. 

The  soil  is  for  the  greater  part  a  deep  rich  loam,  and 
in  other  places  intermixed  with  gravel ;  the  chief  crops 
are  barley  and  wheat,  with  potatoes  and  turnips.  The 
system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  advanced  state,  and  the 
rotation  plan  of  husbandry  generally  adopted  ;  much 
of  the  land  has  been  improved  by  draining.  Great 
attention  is  paid  to  the  management  of  dairy-farms ; 
butter  and  Dunlop  cheese  are  sent  to  the  adjacent  mar- 
kets, and  all  due  regard  is  paid  to  the  improvement  of 
the  breed  of  live-stock.  The  cows  on  the  dairy-farms 
are  the  Ayrshire,  and  the  sheep  are  mostly  of  the  black- 
faced  and  Cheviot  kinds,  with  a  few  of  the  South  Down 
breed,  recently  introduced.  Coal  abounds  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, and  is  extensively  worked,  and  freestone  of 
excellent  quality  is  found ;  limestone,  also,  is  quarried  in 
the  north-east  part  of  the  parish.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  Dreghorn  is  £10,130.  Annock  Lodge  is  a  hand- 
some residence  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Annock, 
in  a  tastefully-ornamented  demesne,  enriched  with 
thriving  plantations  ;  and  Pierceton,  Righouse,  Cunning- 
291 


ham  Head,  and  Warrickhill  are  also  good  houses.  The 
village  is  on  the  road  from  Kilmarnock  to  Irvine,  and  is 
irregularly  built  upon  a  gentle  acclivity  commanding  a 
view  of  the  sea ;  most  of  the  houses  are  of  ancient 
appearance,  and  the  general  aspect,  from  the  number  of 
old  trees  with  which  the  buildings  are  interspersed,  is 
cheerful  and  extremely  pleasing.  The  parish  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Irvine  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and 
in  the  patronage  of  Lady  Montgomerie.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  £250,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£13  per  annum.  The  church,  situated  in  the  village,  is  a 
substantial  edifice  erected  within  the  last  seventy  years, 
and  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  430  persons.  The  paro- 
chial school  affords  education  to  about  100  scholars;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £29.  18.,  with  £50  fees,  and  a 
house  and  garden.  There  is  also  a  school  which  has  a 
small  endowment  in  addition  to  the  fees. 

DRON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth,  1|  mile 
(S.S.E.)  from  Bridge  of  Earn  ;  containing  441  inhabitants. 
The  name  in  the  Gaelic  tongue  signifies  a  projection,  a 
term  descriptive  of  the  locality  in  which  the  church  and 
manse  are  placed.  The  parish  lies  a  mile  south  of  the 
river  Earn,  and,  including  a  tongue  of  land  in  Dun- 
barny  parish,  penetrating  it,  measures  in  length,  from 
east  to  west,  between  three  and  four  miles  ;  it  extends 
about  three  miles  in  breadth,  comprising  4100  acres, 
and  of  these  2600  are  under  cultivation,  400  in  wood, 
and  the  remainder  hill  pasture.  It  consists  principally 
of  a  tract  sloping  towards  the  north  from  the  Ochil 
hills,  which  form  the  southern  boundary  of  the  beau- 
tiful vale  of  Strathearn  ;  and  exhibits  a  series  of  well- 
cultivated  and  inclosed  fields,  seen  to  great  advantage 
by  travellers  passing  along  the  high  road.  Some  of  the 
hills  011  the  southern  extremity  of  the  parish  are  orna- 
mented with  extensive  plantations  of  fir,  birch,  ash,  and 
other  trees,  disposed  in  belts  and  clumps ;  and  the  re- 
maining high  grounds  in  this  direction  present  in  gene- 
ral a  smooth  and  verdant  surface.  Several  rivulets  run 
from  the  hilly  parts,  and  the  Farg,  which  abounds  with 
fine  trout,  after  flowing,  from  its  source  in  the  Ochil 
range  five  or  six  miles  distant,  through  a  deep,  narrow, 
and  well-wooded  glen  of  great  beauty,  forms  a  boun- 
dary line  between  this  parish  and  that  of  Abernethy, 
and  falls  into  the  Earn  at  Culfargie.  The  soil  varies 
in  quality  according  to  its  proximity  to  the  hills.  The 
lands  verging  towards  the  north  are  clayey  and  loamy, 
with  some  till,  and  produce  rich  crops  of  wheat,  barley, 
oats,  potatoes,  turnips,  clover,  peas,  and  beans.  On  the 
higher  grounds,  however,  the  earth  is  more  shallow  and 
mixed  with  rock;  the  best  crops  in  this  division,  con- 
sisting of  barley,  oats,  turnips,  and  potatoes,  are  pro- 
duced chiefly  in  the  flats  and  hollows,  the  other  parts 
being  too  much  exposed  to  high  winds  for  successful 
farming,  and  large  tracts  are  wholly  unfit  for  culti- 
vation, and  afford  only  indifferent  pasture  for  sheep 
and  cattle.  The  husbandry  in  general  is  of  a  superior 
character,  and  in  progress  of  improvement,  especially 
in  regard  to  tile-draining,  which  is  extensively  practised, 
and  is  particularly  adapted  to  the  soil,  it  being  for  the 
most  part  retentive  and  clayey.  The  substratum  is 
freestone,  which  is  occasionally  quarried  ;  and  the  in- 
dications of  the  existence  of  coal  are  so  great  that 
many  attempts  to  find  it  have  been  made  since  the 
year  1758,  though  without  success.  The  rateable  an- 
nual value  of  the  parish  is  £4300. 

2  P2 


DRUM 


DRUM 


The  chief  residence  is  Balmanno  Castle,  once  the  seat 
of  the  Murrays,  baronets  of  Balmanno,  and  now  the 
property  of  the  nephew  of  the  last  baronet,  who  was 
killed  at  the  age  of  twenty-two  at  Long  Island,  in 
the  American  war  :  the  edifice,  part  of  which  is  very 
ancient,  is  still  in  excellent  preservation,  and  is  con- 
sidered a  fine  specimen  of  an  old  castle  and  mansion- 
house.  There  is  also  a  neat  modern  mansion  called 
Glenearn.  The  high  road  from  Edinburgh  to  Perth 
runs  through  the  parish  ;  farming  produce  is  sent  for 
sale  to  Perth,  Newburgh,  and  Kinross,  and  large  ship- 
ments of  potatoes  are  made  to  London.  Dron  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Perth  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stir- 
ling, and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown  ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £180,  with  a  manse  and  glebe  valued  at  about 
£45  per  annum,  and  £4  per  annum  in  lieu  of  coal. 
The  church  was  built  about  the  year  1816,  and  is  a 
plain  neat  edifice,  beautifully  situated  on  an  eminence 
at  the  base  of  the  Ochils,  commanding  extensive  views 
of  the  picturesque  scenery  of  part  of  Strathearn,  the 
Carse  of  Gowrie,  and  the  Ochil  range.  The  parochial 
school  affords  instruction  in  the  ordinary  branches ; 
the  master  receives  a  salary  of  £34,  and  his  premises 
and  the  school-house  have  been  lately  rebuilt  at  a  cost 
of  £560.  In  the  churchyard  is  the  grave-stone  of  John 
Welwood,  a  celebrated  minister  in  the  time  of  Charles 
II.,  who  died  at  Perth  in  16/9,  and  was  buried  here 
during  the  night.  An  old  chapel  with  a  burial-ground, 
formerly  standing  at  the  entrance  of  Glenfarg,  has  been 
pulled  down  to  give  place  to  the  new  Edinburgh  road  ; 
and  the  ruin  of  another  yet  remains  in  the  west  end  of 
the  parish.  On  the  southern  declivity  of  a  hill  oppo- 
site the  church,  is  a  large  mass  of  whinstone,  about 
ten  feet  long  and  seven  broad,  and  deviating  from  the 
perpendicular,  called  the  rocking-stone  of  Dron. 

DRONLEY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Auchter- 
house,  county  of  Forfar,  2  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from 
Liff;  containing  103  inhabitants.  This  is  a  neat  and 
pleasing  village,  situated  a  little  east  of  the  road  be- 
tween Dundee  and  Meigle.  A  fine  rivulet  issuing  from 
the  lake  of  Lundie,  and  running  along  the  southern 
border  of  the  parish,  is  here  joined  by  another  small 
stream,  and  both  uniting  form  the  Dighty  water,  which 
empties  itself  into  the  Tay  four  miles  east  of  Dundee. 

DRUMBLADE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Strath- 
bogie,  county  of  Aberdeen,  5  miles  (E.)  from  Huntly  ; 
containing  945  inhabitants.  The  ancient  name  of  this 
parish,  Drumblait,  which  is  Gaelic,  signifies  "  covered 
hills  or  braes."  King  Robert  Bruce  is  said  to  have 
lain  encamped  here  during  a  time  of  severe  sickness, 
and  to  have  kept  in  check  Comyn,  Earl  of  Buchan,  one 
of  the  most  powerful  of  the  Scottish  barons,  who  had 
pursued  him  hither,  just  before  the  battle  of  Barra, 
which  was  fought  between  them  in  the  year  1307.  The 
spot  where  the  king  intrenched  himself  was  a  height 
upon  Sliach,  still  called  "  Robin's  height."  Some  years 
ago,  vestiges  were  visible  of  an  encampment  supposed 
to  have  been  a  part  of  the  works  of  Bruce's  station  :  and 
some  tumuli,  as  well  as  immense  masses  of  stone  yet 
remaining  in  the  vicinity,  are  said  to  have  been  con- 
nected with  the  same  fortifications.  A  hill  called  "the 
battle  hill"  is  thought  to  have  been  the  scene  of  a 
conflict,  at  a  later  period,  between  the  Cummings  and 
the  Gordons.  The  parish  is  about  six  miles  in  its 
greatest  length,  and  between  four  and  five  miles  in  its 
292 


greatest  breadth,  and  contains  above  7600  acres.  The 
surface  is  diversified  by  small  hills,  mostly  cultivated, 
and  by  gently  sloping  valleys,  with  an  extensive  plain 
on  the  north,  called  the  Knightland  Moss,  so  level 
that,  from  the  want  of  a  proper  fall  for  the  water,  the 
draining  of  it  was  long  incomplete,  though  the  whole 
of  the  tract  is  now  under  the  plough  or  in  pasture. 
There  are  several  streams,  but  the  only  one  of  conse- 
quence is  the  Bogie,  which  divides  the  parish  on  the 
west  from  the  town  of  Huntly. 

The  soil  presents  numerous  varieties,  of  which  the 
prevailing  is  a  deep  rich  loam,  producing,  if  well  culti- 
vated, and  favoured  by  the  season,  very  fine  crops.  A 
large  part,  however,  is  stiff  and  heavy,  with  a  cold 
crusty  subsoil,  which  greatly  impedes  agricultural  ope- 
rations ;  and  in  some  places  the  soil  is  light  and  sharp, 
resting  upon  loose  sand  or  gravel.  About  6000  acres 
are  arable,  1100  unimproved,  and  500  planted  with 
larch  and  Scotch  fir,  and  a  little  spruce  and  beech  ;  all 
kinds  of  crops  are  raised,  but  of  the  grain,  oats  most 
prevail,  wheat  being  little  cultivated  in  the  parish. 
The  live  stock  are  numerous,  and  form  a  principal 
object  of  attention  ;  they  are  chiefly  the  Aberdeenshire 
mixed  with  the  Highland  breed,  but  crosses  with  the 
short-horned  have  of  late  become  common.  The  best 
system  of  husbandry  is  practised,  and  the  improvements 
by  draining,  reclaiming  waste  ground  and  planting, 
have  been  so  considerable  within  the  last  thirty  years, 
that  the  aspect  of  the  parish  has  been  almost  entirely 
changed  ;  the  farm-houses  and  offices,  and  the  inclo- 
sures,  however,  are  still  in  a  somewhat  inferior  condition. 
The  substrata  afford  granite,  whinstone,  and  limestone, 
the  first  of  which  is  excellent.  The  parish  contains  the 
mansion-house  of  Lessendrum,  partly  an  old  and  partly 
a  modern  building.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  are  en- 
gaged in  agricultural  pursuits,  but  a  few  are  employed 
in  a  distillery,  a  bleachfield,  and  two  potato-flour  ma- 
nufactories, and  in  a  meal-mill,  a  lint-mill,  and  two 
wool-mills  :  at  the  distillery  40,000  gallons  of  superior 
malt  spirits  are  annually  produced,  yielding  to  govern- 
ment about  £10,000  a  year  in  duty.  The  Aberdeen  and 
Inverness  great  post-road,  and  the  Huntly  and  Banff 
turnpike-road,  run  through  the  parish,  the  one  two  miles 
south,  and  the  other  a  mile  and  a  half  north-west  of 
the  church.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  Drumblade 
is  £5520.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the 
presbytery  of  Turriff  and  synod  of  Aberdeen;  patron, 
the  Earl  of  Kintore.  The  stipend  is  £159,  of  which 
£51  are  paid  by  the  exchequer,  and  there  is  a  good 
manse,  with  a  glebe  of  ten  arable  acres,  valued  at  £16 
per  annum.  The  church,  a  plain  edifice,  was  built  in 
1773,  and  improved  in  1829,  and  contains  500  sittings. 
The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of 
worship.  The  parochial  schoolmaster  receives  £30  a 
year,  and  about  £24  fees,  with  an  allowance  for  a  house, 
and  a  portion  of  the  Dick  bequest :  Latin,  mathematics, 
mensuration,  and  all  the  ordinary  branches  are  taught. 
There  is  also  a  good  parochial  library.  The  Rev.  George 
Abel,  minister  of  the  parish,  left  £100  in  1793,  and  his 
widow  a  similar  sum  several  years  afterwards,  for  the 
benefit  of  the  poor.  Dr.  William  Bisset,  late  Bishop 
of  Raphoe,  in  Ireland,  was  proprietor  of  Lessendrum, 
and  was  interred  here  in  1834. 

DRUMELDRIE-MUIR,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Newburn,  district  of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of  Fife, 


DRUM 


DRUM 


lq:  mile  (E.)  from  Largo ;  containing  S2  inhabitants. 
The  name  of  the  parish  was  anciently  Drumeldrie, 
changed  to  Newborn  from  the  circumstance,  it  is  said, 
of  a  small  rivulet  in  the  parish  having  altered  its  course. 
The  village  is  situated  about  half  a  mile  distant  from 
the  shore  of  Largo  bay,  and  on  the  high  road  from 
Largo  to  Elie  :   a  little  to  the  north-east  is  the  moor. 

DRUMGLAY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Glammis, 
county  of  Forfar,  2  miles  (W.)  from  Forfar;  containing 
66  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  the  extreme  north- 
east point  of  the  parish,  a  short  distance  from  the  Dean 
river  and  the  loch  of  Forfar,  the  former  on  the  south, 
and  the  latter  eastward,  of  the  village. 

DRUMLANRIG,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Duris- 
deer,  county  of  Dumfries,  3^  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from 
Thornhill.  This  place  is  distinguished  for  its  magni- 
ficent palace  of  Drumlanrig,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of 
Buccleuch,  and  formerly  that  of  the  dukes  of  Queens- 
berry.  It  is  a  large  square  pile,  standing  on  a  rising 
ground,  and  looking  down  with  its  almost  innumerable 
windows  on  the  plain  beneath,  the  river  Nith  flowing 
at  a  short  distance  from  its  walls,  which  are  covered 
with  a  profusion  of  hearts  and  stars,  and  the  arms  of 
Douglas,  and  crowned  by  twelve  fine  turrets.  The 
palace  was  built  in  the  17th  century,  by  the  first  duke 
of  Queensberry,  from  the  designs  of  Inigo  Jones,  and 
its  erection  occupied  ten  years  :  around  it  are  old- 
fashioned  gardens,  which  are  kept  in  good  order  ;  and 
in  its  vicinity,  a  line  of  yew-trees,  overspread  by  creeping 
plants,  presents  a  peculiarly  venerable  appearance.  For- 
merly, in  one  of  the  parks  was  preserved  a  herd  of  the 
original  wild  cattle  of  Scotland,  animals  of  a  milk- 
white,  except  their  noses,  ears,  and  the  orbits  of  their 
eyes,  these  being  of  a  dark  brown  colour.  In  the 
churchyard  of  Durisdeer  is  a  curious  monument  to 
"James  Lukup,  master  of  the  works  of  Drumlanrig," 
bearing  the  date  16S5. 

DRUMLEMBLE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Camp- 
beiltown,  district  of  Cantyre,  county  of  Argyll  ; 
containing  462  inhabitants.  It  is  seated  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  a  large  colliery,  in  which  its  male 
population  is  for  the  most  part  engaged. 

DRUMLITHIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Glen- 
bervie,  county  of  Kincardine,  6  miles  (\V.  S.  W.)  from 
Stonehaven  ;  containing  397  inhabitants.  It  lies  in 
the  southern  part  of  the  parish,  a  short  distance  west 
of  the  high  road  from  Stonehaven  to  Laurencekirk,  and 
about  a  mile  east-north-east  of  the  church  ;  the  inha- 
bitants are  principally  weavers  and  shoemakers.  There 
is  a  post  daily,  Wednesdays  excepted  ;  and  two  stage 
coaches  pass  through  the  village  every  day  on  then- 
route  between  Edinburgh  and  Aberdeen.  Here  are  an 
episcopal  chapel,  and  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church  ;   and  a  small  school. 

DRUMMELZIER,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Pee- 
bles ;  containing  228  inhabitants,  of  whom  63  are 
in  the  village,  2  miles  (E.)  from  Rachan-Mill.  This 
parish,  in  ancient  documents  DrumMar  and  Drumeler, 
anciently  formed  part  of  the  parish  of  Tweedsmuir,  from 
which  it  was  separated  in  1643  ;  and  in  1742  it  was 
augmented  by  the  annexation  of  part  of  the  parish  of 
Dawiek,  of  which  the  remainder  was  added  to  Stobo. 
It  appears  to  have  been  from  a  very  remote  period  the 
property  of  the  family  of  Tweedie,  of  whom  Sir  James 
Tweedie,  to  whose  memory  there  is  an  inscription, 
293 


dated  1617,  over  the  entrance  of  a  cemetery  attached 
to  the  church,  was  the  last  member.  The  parish  is 
about  fourteen  miles  in  length,  and  from  three  to  four 
in  average  breadth,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  for 
about  eight  miles  by  the  river  Tweed,  which,  also,  in 
the  upper  portion  divides  it  into  two  parts.  It  com- 
prises 17,3S6  acres,  of  which  1030  are  arable,  1SQ 
meadow  and  low  pasture,  520  woodland  and  plantations, 
and  16,647  hilly  moor,  affording  tolerable  pasture  for 
sheep  and  cattle.  The  surface  is  generally  mountainous, 
but  between  the  hills  and  the  river  are  some  fine 
tracts  of  level  pasture  ;  the  hills  are  clothed  with  grass 
and  heath,  and  the  scenery  is  enlivened  by  some 
stately  timber,  and  thriving  plantations  of  modern 
growth.  The  soil  is  sharp,  and  the  principal  crops  are 
oats  and  barley,  with  a  few  acres  of  wheat,  peas,  pota- 
toes, and  turnips  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  an 
improved  state  ;  the  lands  are  well  drained,  and  inclosed 
chiefly  with  fences  of  stone.  Considerable  attention  is 
paid  to  the  management  of  the  dairy-farms,  and  to 
the  rearing  and  pasture  of  sheep  and  cattle  ;  about  200 
milch-cows  are  kept,  and  7000  sheep,  chiefly  of  the 
black-faced  breed,  are  fed  in  the  pastures.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2993. 

The  woods  are  oak,  chesnut,  sycamore,  and  larch, 
and  on  the  older  lands  are  many  trees  of  luxuriant 
growth  ;  the  plantations  are  Scotch  fir  and  larch,  in- 
termixed with  various  forest  trees.  The  substrata  are 
mostly  whinstone  with  veins  of  quartz,  white  and  very 
compact  limestone,  and  slate ;  but  no  quarries  have 
yet  been  opened.  Dawiek,  a  seat  in  the  parish  lately 
rebuilt,  is  a  handsome  mansion  in  the  antique  style  of 
architecture,  situated  in  a  well-planted  demesne,  con- 
taining a  fine  collection  of  pine-trees  from  the  Himalaya 
mountains  and  California.  The  village,  which  is  irre- 
gularly built,  is  pleasant,  and  is  chiefly  inhabited  by 
persons  employed  in  agriculture.  The  river  Tweed  and 
its  tributaries  abound  with  trout,  and  salmon  are  also 
found  in  the  former  from  September  till  March.  The 
parish  is  ecclesiastically  in  the  presbytery  of 
Peebles  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Twecddale,  and  in 
the  patronage  of  the  family  of  Trotter  ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £192,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£10  per  annum.  The  church,  situated  nearly  in  the 
centre  of  the  parish,  and  at  an  elevation  of  S00  feet 
above  the  sea,  is  an  ancient  structure  in  good  repair, 
and  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  200  persons.  The 
parochial  school  affords  instruction  to  about  thirty 
children;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £32,  with  £10 
fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  At  Kingledoors,  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  parish,  was  an  ancient  chapel  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Cuthbert,  the  early  evangelist  of  Tweeddale. 
There  are  remains  of  two  castles  :  the  one  called  Tinnes 
or  Thanes  Castle,  of  which  there  is  no  authentic  record, 
was  of  quadrilateral  form,  with  circular  towers  at  the 
angles,  and  walls  of  six  feet  in  thickness ;  and  the 
other,  called  Drummelzier  Place,  is  supposed  to  have 
been  the  baronial  seat  of  the  Tweedie  family.  On  the 
summit  of  one  of  the  mountains,  are  vestiges  of  a  road 
thought,  to  have  been  part  of  the  Roman  road  commu- 
nicating with  the  line  from  Falkirk  to  Carlisle.  Near 
the  junction  of  the  Powsail  rivulet  with  the  Tweed,  is 
a  spot  said  to  have  been  the  grave  of  Merlin. 

DRUMMETERMONT,  a  village,   in   the  parish  of 
Dunnichen,  county  of  Forfar  ;  containing  117  inha- 


DRUM 


DRUM 


bitants.  It  is  situated  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  the 
parish,  and  nearly  adjoins  the  village  of  Letham  on  the 
north  side.  The  village  is  long  and  straggling,  and  is 
chiefly  inhabited  by  farmers  and  small  weavers. 

DRUMMOND,  a  village,  in  the  parish- of  Kiltearn, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty,  6  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from 
Dingwall ;  containing  72  inhabitants.  This  place  is 
seated  in  a  level  field  near  the  Skiack  rivulet,  on  the 
road  from  Dingwall  to  Novar  Inn  :  the  parochial  church 
stands  a  short  distance  from  it. 

DRUMOAK,  a  parish,  chiefly  in  the  district  and 
county  of  Aberdeen,  but  partly  in  the"  county  of  Kin- 
cardine, 11  miles  (VV.  S.  W.)  from  Aberdeen;  contain- 
ing Sll  inhabitants.  The  original  name  of  this  place 
was  Dalmaik,  by  which  it  is  still  generally  called  by 
the  inhabitants,  though  the  denomination  of  Drum- 
oak  has  also  been  used  for  more  than  300  years  ;  the 
latter  appellation  is  said  to  be  derived  from  the  Gaelic 
word  drum,  signifying  the  ridge  of  a  hill,  and  the  term 
Moloch,  corrupted  into  Moak,  the  name  of  a  celebrated 
saint  to  whose  honour  a  monastery  was  erected  in  St. 
Servanus'  isle,  on  the  water  of  Leven.  The  name  of 
Dalmaik  is  compounded  of  the  Gaelic  Dal.  a  haugh  or 
valley,  and  St.  Moloch,  corrrupted  into  Maik,  and  signi- 
fies the  valley  of  St.  Moloch,  a  description  applicable  to 
the  district  containing  the  ruins  of  the  old  church,  near 
which  is  a  well  called  St.  Maik's  Well.  The  parish  con- 
sists of  four  estates,  Drum,  Leys,  Park,  and  Culter,  of 
which  the  first  comprehends  one-half  of  the  whole  lands, 
and  is  possessed  by  the  Irvine  family,  the  first  of  whom, 
William  de  Irvin,  was  armour-bearer  to  Robert  Bruce, 
and  was  rewarded  by  him  for  his  zeal  and  fidelity  with 
a  grant  of  the  forest  of  Drum,  conveyed  by  charter 
under  the  great  seal  in  1323.  Leys,  situated  in  Kin- 
cardineshire, has  been  held  for  more  than  500  years  by 
the  ancestors  of  the  present  proprietor,  Sir  Thomas 
Burnet,  Bart.  The  lands  of  Park  formed  part  of  the 
chase  attached  to  the  royal  forest  of  Drum,  one  of  the 
hunting-seats  of  the  kings  of  Scotland,  and  having  been 
reserved  by  Robert  when  he  made  the  grant  of  the  forest, 
were  given  by  David  Bruce  to  Walter  Moigne,  since 
which  they  have  passed  through  different  families.  The 
lands  of  Culter  belonged  at  an  early  period  to  the  family 
of  Drum. 

The  parish  approaches  in  figure  to  a  triangle,  but. 
the  outline  is  very  irregular  ;  it  measures  six  miles  in 
length,  and  averages  two  in  breadth,  comprising  7  190 
acres,  of  which  1797  are  in  the  county  of  Kincardine. 
Of  the  Aberdeenshire  portion  3467  acres  are  under  cul- 
tivation, 485  are  waste  or  continual  pasture,  including 
SO  capable  of  improvement,  and  1441  are  underwood; 
of  the  Kincardineshire  portion  798  acres  are  under  cul- 
tivation, 793  waste  or  continual  pasture,  300  of  the 
number  being  capable  of  improvement,  and  206  are 
under  wood.  The  surface  is  agreeably  varied  by  gentle 
undulations,  rising  from  the  boundaries  on  all  sides  but 
the  east  to  the  Drum  hill  in  the  centre,  which  is  500 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  in  the  eastern  part  the 
Ord  hill  attains  an  abrupt  elevation  of  430  feet,  its  ridge 
stretching  to  the  boundary  of  the  parish  in  that  direc- 
tion. The  most  extensive  and  beautiful  prospect  in 
the  neighbourhood  is  obtained  from  the  southern  peak 
of  Drum  hill,  comprehending  a  tract  stretching  almost 
from  the  German  Ocean  on  the  east  along  the  valley  of 
the  river  Dee,  which  forms  the  southern  boundary  of 
294 


the  parish,  and  closed  on  the  south  by  the  Grampian 
range,  and  on  the  west  by  lofty  mountains  often  crowned 
with  snow.  The  Dee  has  long  been  celebrated  for  its 
fine  salmon ;  the  fisheries  were  once  much  more  profit- 
able than  at  present  in  this  locality,  a  diminution  in  the 
number  of  fish  having  arisen  from  the  stake  and  bag 
nets  so  thickly  planted  along  the  coast,  and  at  the 
river's  mouth.  The  loch  of  Drum,  a  fine  sheet  of  water 
of  oblong  form,  covers  nearly  eighty-five  acres,  and  is 
highly  ornamental,  its  margin  being  beautifully  fringed 
with  alders,  and  three  of  its  sides  dressed  with  thriving 
plantations  of  larch,  birch,  and  Scotch  fir.  Excellent 
pike,  numerous  eels,  and  a  few  perch  are  found  in  the 
loch,  and  common  trout  are  taken,  by  angling,  in  the 
burns  of  Gormac  and  Culter,  which  separate  this  parish 
on  the  north  from  those  of  Edit  and  Peterculter  ;  these 
fish  also  are  all  found  in  the  pellucid  stream  of  the  Dee, 
with  par,  sea-trout,  white  trout,  and  flounders. 

The  soil,  is  mostly  of  inferior  quality,  and  on  account 
of  its  general  dryness,  occasioned  partly  by  a  gravelly  and 
porous  subsoil,  the  farmers  have  much  to  contend  with. 
The  lands  near  the  river  are  light  and  sandy,  and  in- 
cumbent on  gravel,  and  when  penetrated  by  the  heat  of 
the  sun  in  scorching  summers,  are  dried  up  ;  the  parts, 
however,  which  have  been  the  longest  under  cultivation 
and  most  manured,  are  rich  and  loamy,  bearing  good 
crops.  In  the  other  portions  of  the  parish  the  land  is 
either  thin  and  moorish,  resting  on  till  or  some  retentive 
subsoil,  or  consists  of  beds  of  peat,  in  which  are  found 
many  fragments  of  trees,  and  from  which,  though  to  a 
great  extent  exhausted,  fuel  is  still  partly  obtained  for 
the  supply  of  the  parish.  All  kinds  of  grain  are  raised, 
with  turnips,  potatoes,  and  hay.  The  number  of  sheep 
has  been  greatly  reduced  in  consequence  of  the  conver- 
sion of  large  tracts  of  pasture  into  arable  ground ;  the 
black-cattle  are  the  Aberdeenshire  polled  breed,  variously 
mixed,  and  recently  much  improved,  and  many  swine 
are  reared  both  for  domestic  use  and  for  the  pork- 
curers  at  Aberdeen.  The  prevailing  system  of  hus- 
bandry is  the  seven-shift  course,  and  large  quantities  of 
bone-dust  are  applied  as  manure ;  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  marshy  land  has  been  reclaimed,  and  embank- 
ments have  been  raised  at  a  great  cost  on  the  estate  of 
Park.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  Drumoak  is  £2532. 
The  rocks  in  the  parish  are  of  little  interest  or  value, 
and  consist  chiefly  of  gneiss  and  granite,  boulders  of 
which  are  abundant,  and  are  used  for  the  erection  of 
fences  and  farm-steadings.  The  wood  principally  com- 
prises larch  and  Scotch  fir,  intermixed  with  birch  and 
other  trees ;  and  very  fine  specimens  of  old  oak,  ash, 
plane,  and  elm  adorn  the  grounds  belonging  to  the 
mansion  of  Drum,  a  spacious  edifice  in  the  Elizabethan 
style,  built  in  1619,  with  a  venerable  tower  adjoining, 
supposed  to  have  been  erected  in  the  twelfth  century. 
The  mansion  of  Park  is  also  a  handsome  structure,  built 
in  1S22,  in  the  Grecian  style  of  architecture,  and  sur- 
rounded with  extensive  and  well  laid-out  grounds.  The 
turnpike-road  from  Braemar  to  Aberdeen  passes  through 
the  whole  length  of  the  parish.  Fairs  for  the  sale  of 
cattle  are  held  at  Park  Inn  on  the  first  Monday  in 
January,  the  first  Monday  in  April,  the  Monday  after 
the  second  Tuesday  in  May,  the  second  Tuesday  in  July 
(O.  S.),  and  the  Tuesday  before  the  22nd  of  November; 
but  they  are  of  recent  institution,  and  badly  attended. 
The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  and  synod  of  Aberdeen, 


D  R  Y  B 


DRYF 


and  in  the  patronage  of  Alexander  'Irvine,  Esq. ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £15S,  of  which  upwards  of  a  third 
is  received  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £22  per  annum.  The  old  church,  re- 
moved in  1S35,  is  supposed  to  have  stood  about  300 
years,  and  was  inconveniently  situated  on  a  strip  of 
land  stretching  into  the  parish  of  Peterculter  ;  the  pre- 
sent structure,  placed  on  nearly  a  central  spot,  is  a  neat 
and  comfortable  place  of  worship,  raised  at  an  expense 
of  above  £1000,  and  contains  630  sittings,  all  free.  A 
parochial  subscription  library  was  instituted  in  182", 
and  contains  upwards  of  300  volumes.  The  parochial 
school  affords  instruction  in  Latin  and  mathematics,  in 
addition  to  the  ordinary  branches ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £30,  with  about  £22  fees,  and  £10  in  meal, 
for  teaching  twelve  poor  children,  left  by  the  family  of 
Drum.  James  Gregory,  the  inventor  of  the  reflecting- 
telescope,  was  a  native  of  the  parish. 

DRUMOCHY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Largo, 
district  of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of  Fife,  2  miles  (E. 
N.  E.)  from  Leven  ;  containing  156  inhabitants.  This 
place  is  separated  from  Nether  Largo  by  the  mouth  of 
the  Keel  rivulet,  which  forms  the  harbour,  opening  into 
Largo  bay ;  the  population  are  chiefly  fishermen.  The 
trade  in  salt,  for  which  there  were  formerly  many  works 
here,  has  altogether  disappeared. 

DRUMORE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kirkmaiden, 
county  of  Wigton,  f  of  a  mile  (S.  E.)  from  Kirkmaiden ; 
containing  279  inhabitants.  This  village  is  seated  on 
the  eastern  shore  of  the  peninsula  called  the  Rhinns  of 
Galloway,  and  has  a  good  harbour  and  quay,  with  safe 
anchorage  for  shipping.  Four  vessels,  of  between  six- 
teen and  thirty-seven  tons'  burthen,  belong  to  the  port, 
whence  farm  produce  is  shipped  to  various  places ;  and 
in  Luce  bay  some  fishing  is  carried  on.  There  is  a 
daily  post  from  Stranraer,  distant  south-south-east  about 
twenty  miles.  Above  the  village  are  the  ruins  of  Dru- 
more  Castle,  which  from  its  position  and  magnitude 
must  have  been  of  great  strength  and  importance. 

DRUMS,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Errol,  county 
of  Perth;  containing  73  inhabitants. 

DRUMSTURDY-MUIR,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Monifieth,  county  of  Forfar,  6f  miles  (N.  E.)  from 
Dundee  ;  containing  176  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on 
both  sides  of  the  old  road  from  Dundee  to  Arbroath,  and 
is  long  and  straggling.  In  its  immediate  vicinity  is  the 
Hill  of  Laws,  on  which  are  the  remains  of  a  fortification, 
the  stones  bearing  the  marks  of  vitrification  or  fusion. 
A  considerable  quantity  of  gold  coins  was  found  a  few 
years  since  near  this  spot. 

DRUMVAICH,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Kilma- 
dock  with  Doune,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  49 
inhabitants. 

DRYBURGH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Mertoun, 
county  of  Berwick,  I5  mile  (W.)  from  Mertoun.  It  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  river  Tweed,  which  forms  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  parish ;  and  was  formerly  a 
market-town  of  some  importance,  but  is  now  chiefly  re- 
markable for  the  much  admired  remains  of  its  ancient 
abbey.  So  early  as  the  year  522,  St.  Modan,  one  of 
the  first  Christian  missionaries  in  Britain,  was  abbot  of 
Dryburgh;  but  from  the  circumstance  of  this  original 
institution  being  unnoticed  by  historians  subsequently 
to  this  period,  it  is  supposed  that  the  abbot  and  monks 
were  shortly  afterwards  transferred  to  Melrose,  and 
295 


some  centuries  elapsed  before  the  formation  of  a  second 
establishment  here.  Hugh  de  Morville,  constable  of 
Scotland,  about  the  middle  of  the  twelfth  century, 
with  the  consent  of  his  wife,  Beatrix  de  Bello  Campo, 
founded  a  new  abbey,  to  which  David  I.  granted  a 
charter  of  confirmation,  and  the  establishment  was  after- 
wards enriched  by  numerous  benefactions  from  illus- 
trious personages.  In  1544,  the  whole  of  the  town  was 
burnt  down,  except  the  church,  by  the  English  army 
under  Sir  George  Bowes  ;  and  in  the  year  following,  the 
monastery  was  plundered  and  burnt  by  the  Earl  of 
Hertford.  About  the  year  1556,  David  Erskine,  a 
natural  son  of  Lord  Erskine,  and  one  of  the  sub-pre- 
ceptors to  James  VI.,  became  abbot.  That  monarch, 
however,  soon  after  dissolved  the  abbey,  and  bestowed 
it  as  a  temporal  lordship,  under  the  title  of  Cardross, 
on  John,  Earl  of  Mar,  lord  high  treasurer  of  Scotland, 
with  the  privilege  annexed  of  assigning  that  title  of 
peerage,  which  he  conveyed  to  Henry,  his  third  son, 
ancestor  of  the  present  Earl  of  Buchan,  by  a  deed  dated 
13th  of  March,  ]  617,  and  confirmed  by  the  king  and 
parliament.  In  1786,  the  abbey  was  purchased  by  the 
Earl  of  Buchan  from  the  heirs  of  Colonel  Tod,  who  had 
bought  it  from  the  family  of  Haliburton,  of  Newmains. 
The  remains,  though  not  extensive,  are  of  very  consider- 
able interest ;  they  are  romantically  overgrown  with 
ivy,  and  consist  chiefly  of  the  chapter-house,  north 
transept,  and  St.  Modan's  chapel :  some  parts  of  the 
ruins  are  of  very  early  date,  there  being  vestiges  of  the 
Saxon  and  Norman  styles  as  well  as  of  the  early  Eng- 
lish. The  environs  are  famed  for  their  delightful  scenery, 
and  are  ornamented  with  various  pleasing  objects,  among 
which  is  a  temple  erected  to  the  Muses,  and  surmounted 
by  a  bust  of  Thomson,  the  author  of  The  Seasons.  A 
colossal  statue  of  Sir  William  Wallace  crowns  the  brow 
of  an  adjoining  hill  5  and  near  the  ruins  of  the  abbey  is  a 
remarkably  light  and  elegant  bridge  for  foot  passengers 
and  led  horses,  consisting  of  a  platform  of  wood,  elevated 
eighteen  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  fixed 
to  pillars  on  each  side  of  the  river  by  chains.  Sir  Walter 
Scott  was  buried  at  Dryburgh. 

DRYFESDALE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dum- 
fries, 14  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Annan  ;  containing, 
with  the  town  of  Lockerbie,  2093  inhabitants.  This 
parish,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  Dryfe,  a  small 
rivulet  running  through  the  north-west  part  of  it,  con- 
tains several  memorials  of  its  ancient  inhabitants,  and 
of  their  domestic  feuds  or  military  operations.  There 
are  vestiges  of  eight  camps,  some  square  or  Roman, 
others  circular  or  British,  the  most  remarkable  of  which 
are  two,  the  one  British  and  the  other  Roman,  facing 
each  other,  and  separated  by  a  narrow  morass  ;  they 
are  on  two  hills  east  of  the  village  of  Bengali,  a  term 
perhaps  implying  "  the  hill  of  the  Gauls."  Old  pieces  of 
armour  and  warlike  weapons  have  frequently  been  found 
in  them  ;  and  not  many  years  ago  the  skeleton  of  a  man 
was  discovered  in  a  cairn  in  the  morass,  with  sandals 
which,  as  a  great  curiosity,  were  sent  to  the  museum 
at  Oxford.  There  is  also  a  Roman  work  situated  upon 
an  eminence  in  the  centre  of  the  extensive  holm  of 
Dryfe  and  Annan,  and  which  is  called  Gallaberry ,  or  the 
station  of  the  Gauls.  The  most  perfect  relic  of  this 
kind,  however,  is  the  British  fort  at  Dryfesdale-gate, 
occupying  two  acres  of  ground,  and  the  counterpart  of 
which  is   a  large  Roman  work,  about  half  a  mile  due 


D  R  Y  F 


DKYM 


east,  separated  only  by  a  moor,  on  which  a  bloody 
battle  was  fought  between  the  army  of  Julius  Agricola 
and  the  forces  of  Corbredus  Galdus,  the  Scottish  king. 
On  the  holm  of  Dryfe,  half  a  mile  below  the  for- 
mer churchyard,  there  is  still  remaining  an  old  thorn- 
tree  pointing  out  the  place  of  the  celebrated  fight  on 
Dryfe-sands,  between  the  Maxwells  of  Nithsdale  and 
the  Johnstons  of  Annandale,  on  the  7th  December, 
1593,  when  the  former  were  defeated  with  great 
slaughter.  The  highland  part  of  the  parish,  which  is 
divided  from  the  lowland  by  a  range  of  green  hills,  was 
once  a  parish  of  itself,  called  Little  Hutton,  and  the 
church  and  burying-ground  were  at  Hall-dykes  ;  but 
the  time  of  annexation  to  Dryfesdale  is  uncertain. 
Besides  this  church  there  were  two  other  places  of  pub- 
lic worship  within  the  limits  of  the  present  parish, 
viz.,  the  chapel  of  Beckton,  supposed  to  have  belonged 
to  the  Knights  Templars,  and  the  chapel  at  Quaas, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west  from  Lockerbie. 

The  parish  is  seven  miles  in  its  greatest  length, 
from  north  to  south,  and  varies  in  breadth  from  one  to 
three  and  a  half  miles,  comprising  11,000  acres.  It  is 
situated  in  the  middle  of  the  beautiful  and  extensive 
valley  called  the  How  of  Annandale,  and  is  bounded  on 
the  south  and  west  by  the  river  Annan,  which  separates 
it  from  the  parish  of  Lochmaben.  The  surface  in  the 
southern  and  western  parts  is  tolerably  level,  but  to- 
wards the  north  there  are  lofty  hills,  most  of  which, 
once  covered  with  pasture,  are  now  productive  of  grain, 
potatoes,  and  other  crops.  The  highest  and  most 
beautiful  hill,  and  one  from  which  the  prospects  are 
highly  interesting  and  very  extensive,  is  called  sometimes 
Quhyte- Woolen,  but  usually  White-Ween,  from  its 
having  formerly  been  the  place  for  the  pasturage  of  very 
white  sheep  ;  it  rises  about  700  feet  in  height,  and 
is  now  covered  with  waving  corn.  Beacon-fires  are 
supposed  to  have  been  once  lighted  on  it,  to  warn  the 
inhabitants  of  the  approach  of  the  English  borderers. 
The  only  river  within  the  parish  is  the  Dryfe,  but  the 
Annan,  Corrie,  and  Milk  all  touch  it  on  their  passage 
to  the  Solway  Frith,  and  are  well  stocked  with  various 
kinds  of  fish  :  in  dry  weather  the  Dryfe  is  a  small 
rivulet,  but.  in  a  rainy  season  it  rolls  along  with  great 
impetuosity,  overflowing  its  banks,  and  spreading  deso- 
lation among  the  lands.  The  whole  of  the  parish  is 
cultivated,  with  the  exception  of  (300  acres,  250  of  which 
are  wood,  and  the  others  moss  and  moor;  and  all  kinds 
of  grain  and  green  crops  are  grown,  the  value  of  which 
is  very  considerable.  The  chief  rock  is  whinstone  or 
greywacke,  which  is  very  abundant ;  some  soft  freestone 
and  dark-coloured  limestone  are  also  found,  and  the 
latter  of  them  wrought.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  returned  at  £"670.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Lochmaben  and 
synod  of  Dumfries  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  £190,  and  there  is  a  good  manse,  delightfully 
situated,  with  a  glebe  valued  at  £'25  per  annum.  The 
church,  built  in  1796,  and  altered  in  1837,  stands  on  a 
small  eminence  on  the  west  side  of  the  main  street  of 
Lockerbie,  a  little  north  from  the  centre  of  the  town  ; 
it  is  handsomely  fitted  up,  and  seats  900  people.  There 
is  an  Antiburgher  meeting-house  at  Lockerbie  ;  also  a 
parochial  school,  in  which  Latin,  Greek,  French,  prac- 
tical geometry,  with  the  usual  branches,  are  taught,  and 
the  master  of  which  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
296 


and  garden,  and  £33  fees.  The  parish  also  contains  a 
parochial  subscription  library.  There  are  plain  traces 
of  the  great  Roman  road  from  the  borders  of  England 
to  the  vast  encampments  on  the  neighbouring  hill  of 
Burnswark,  and  thence  crossing  the  parish  at  Lockerbie 
to  Dryfesdale-gate,  and  to  Gallaberry,  where  it  divided, 
one  branch  leading  through  Annandale,  by  Moffat,  to 
Tweeddale  and  Clydesdale,  and  the  other  crossing  the 
Annan,  and  passing  through  Nithsdale  to  the  west 
country. 

DRYMEN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Stirling  ; 
including  part  of  the  late  quoad  sacra  district  of  Buck- 
lyvie,  and  containing  1515  inhabitants,  of  whom  344 
are  in  the  village  of  Drymen,  55  miles  (W.  by  N.)  from 
Edinburgh.  The  name  of  this  place  was  originally 
written  Drumen,  which  is  derived  from  the  Celtic 
word  Druim,  signifying  a  knoll  or  rise  in  the  ground, 
and  is  strikingly  descriptive  of  the  locality,  the  surface 
being  marked  in  many  places  by  such  eminences.  The 
parish  is  situated  in  the  south-western  extremity  of  the 
county,  and  is  very  irregular  in  its  outline,  but  ap- 
proaching to  a  triangular  form,  and  measuring  in  ex- 
treme length  fifteen  miles,  and  ten  in  breadth.  It 
comprises  32,200  acres  of  which  about  7000  are  culti- 
vated, 556  under  wood,  and  the  remainder  hill  and 
moorland,  the  last  traversed  by  large  numbers  of  native 
sheep  and  black-cattle,-  and  consisting  principally  of 
two  tracts,  one  of  which,  stretching  from  the  east  to 
the  north-west,  divides  the  parish  into  two  parts,  and 
the  other,  situated  in  the  southern  portion  of  the  parish, 
is  part  of  Stockiemuir.  The  former  of  these  tracts, 
near  its  western  extremity,  has  a  lofty  ridge  separating 
this  parish  from  that  of  Buchanan,  and  distinguished 
by  the  elevated  points  of  Benvraick,  1600  feet,  and 
Guallan,  about  1300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ; 
and  a  little  to  the  north  of  it  the  river  Duchray,  a  tri- 
butary of  the  Forth,  forms  the  boundary  of  Drymen 
for  several  miles.  The  lands  north  of  this  extensive 
mountainous  moor  are  contained  within  the  general 
basin  of  the  Forth,  and  the  southern  lands  within  that 
of  the  Clyde.  Between  the  two  moors  is  the  picturesque 
vale  of  the  Endrick,  which  comprehends  most  of  the 
arable  land  in  the  parish,  and  is  remarkable  for  its 
beautiful  scenery,  heightened  by  the  winding  course  of 
the  stream,  which,  after  running  for  a  short  distance 
through  the  parish,  forms  about  two  miles  of  its  boun- 
dary on  the  south,  and  then  loses  itself  in  Loch 
Lomond.  On  the  north-eastern  limit  of  the  parish 
passes  the  Forth,  winding  slowly  along,  and  exhibiting, 
in  the  colour  of  its  water,  the  effect  of  the  mossy  land 
through  which  it  flows,  and  which  is  a  continuous  tract 
called  the  Flanders  Moss.  This  moss,  commencing  here, 
and  extending  to  Stirling,  a  distance  of  sixteen  miles, 
is  supposed  to  have  been  the  site  of  an  extensive  forest 
forming  part  of  the  horrida  sylva  Caledonia  cut  down 
by  the  Romans  to  facilitate  the  conquest  of  the  natives, 
who  had  their  strong  places  in  it ;  and  the  remains 
of  gigantic  trees  still  bear  the  mark  of  the  axe  by  which 
they  were  hewn  down. 

The  prevailing  soil  is  poor  and  shallow,  with  a  cold 
impervious  subsoil,  but  in  some  favoured  spots,  such  as 
the  vale  of  the  Endrick,  there  is  a  fine  hazel  mould, 
inclining  to  loam  ;  the  land  towards  the  north  is  light 
and  sandy,  and  about  the  Forth  a  deep  rich  clay  is 
found  under  the  moss.     The  husbandry  practised   here 


D  U  B  B 


D  U  D  D 


is  of  a  very  mixed  character,  the  old  system  being  still 
retained  in  some  parts,  in  opposition  to  the  rotation  of 
crops  and  many  great  improvements,  which  have  been 
introduced  into  others.  The  sheep  pastured  on  the 
moorlands  are  chiefly  the  black-faced,  and  the  cattle 
are  the  native  black  ;  for  the  improvement  of  the  for- 
mer, Linton  and  Lammermoor  rams  are  sometimes 
purchased,  and  on  the  farms  in  the  southern  and 
western  parts  some  fine  Leicesters  may  be  seen,  and 
many  good  specimens  of  Ayrshire  cattle.  The  live 
stock  have  been  much  improved  by  the  encouragement 
given  by  the  Strath-Endrick  Club,  instituted  in  1816, 
■which  meets  here  annually  in  August,  and  of  which 
the  Duke  of  Montrose  is  patron.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £10,032.  The  natural  wood, 
mostly  coppice,  covers  about  ISO  acres,  and  among  it 
may  be  noticed  some  lofty  oaks  and  beeches.  There  is 
a  very  fine  ash  at  the  gate  of  the  churchyard,  which  is 
upwards  of  200  years  old,  and  measures  in  girth  six- 
teen feet  seven  inches,  at  the  height  of  one  foot  from 
the  ground ;  the  vale  of  Endrick  is  well  wooded,  and 
the  plantations  consist  of  3*6  acres,  belonging  princi- 
pally to  the  duke.  The  mansions  are  those  of  Park, 
Finnich,  and  Endrick-Bank.  The  village  is  situated  a 
little  north  of  the  Endrick  ;  its  inhabitants  are  chiefly 
engaged  in  agriculture,  but  there  is  a  manufactory  at 
Gartness  for  weaving  woollen  goods,  where,  also,  the 
preparation  of  the  raw  material  and  the  dyeing  are 
carried  on.  The  turnpike-road  from  Glasgow  and  Dum- 
barton to  Stirling  passes  through  the  parish,  and  to 
the  first  place  the  produce  of  the  lands  is  generally 
sent.  Drymen  is  ecclesiastically  in  the  presbytery 
of  Dumbarton  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in 
the  patronage  of  the  Crown  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£272,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  seven  acres,  valued 
at  £19  per  annum.  The  church,  built  in  177  lj  and 
reseated  in  1S10,  is  a  substantial  edifice  in  good  repair, 
and  contains  about  400  sittings.  The  United  Asso- 
ciate Secession  have  a  place  of  worship.  The  parochial 
school  is  about  half  a  mile  from  the  village  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £31,  with  £25  fees.  A  parish  library, 
now  containing  400  volumes,  was  instituted  in  1S29, 
and  a  savings'  bank  in  the  same  year.  The  northern 
portion  of  the  parish,  called  the  barony  of  Drummond, 
gives  name  to  the  Drummond  family,  the  founder  of 
which  was  a  Hungarian  named  Maurice,  who  came 
over  with  Margaret,  queen  of  Malcolm  Canmore,  and 
obtained  lands  here,  and  one  of  whose  descendants, 
Anabella,  daughter  of  Sir  John  Drummond,  was  united 
in  marriage  to  Robert,  Earl  of  Carrick,  who  succeeded 
to  the  throne  as  Robert  III.  In  this  barony,  on  the 
farm  of  Garfarran,  are  the  remains  of  a  fort  said  to 
have  been  erected  by  the  Romans.  -Napier,  the  inventor 
of  logarithms,  resided  at  Gartness  for  a  considerable 
period,  during  which  he  prosecuted  his  mathematical 
speculations. 

DUBBIESIDE,  or  Inverleven,  a  village,  in  the  late 
quoad  sacra  parish  of  Methill,  parish  of  Markinch, 
county  of  Fife,  6  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Markinch  ;  con- 
taining 34S  inhabitants.  This  village  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  the  western  bank  of  the  river  Leven,  near  its 
influx  into  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  is  neatly  and  regularly 
built,  consisting  of  one  principal  street  intersected  at 
right  angles  by  two  smaller  streets.  The  inhabitants 
are  generally  employed  at  their  own  houses  in  weaving 
Vol.  I.— 297 


sheetings,  dowlas,  and  towellings,  for  the  manufacturers 
in  the  neighbouring  districts  ;  the  surrounding  scenery 
is  of  pleasing  character,  and  the  village  is  connected  with 
the  town  of  Leven,  on  the  opposite  shore,  by  a  hand- 
some suspension-bridge  across  the  river.  It  contains  a 
Secession  meeting-house. 

DUDDINGSTON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Edin- 
burgh ;  including  the  villages  of  Joppa  and  Easter 
and  Wester  Duddingston,  and  also  the  late  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Portobello  ;  and  containing  4366  inhabitants, 
of  whom  156  are  in  Easter,  and  200  in  Wester,  Dudding- 
ston, the  former  3|  miles  (E.  by  S),  and  the  latter  l£ 
mile  (E.  S.  E.),  from  Edinburgh.  This  place  derived  its 
name,  anciently  Dodinestun,  from  the  family  of  Dodin, 
to  whom  it  belonged  in  the  reign  of  David  I.,  and  of 
whom  Iliigo.Jilius  Dodini  de  Dodinestun,  appears  as  witness 
to  a  grant  of  lands  to  the  canons  of  Holyrood.  The 
manor  was  subsequently  the  property  of  the  Thompson 
family,  of  whom  Sir  Thomas  w-as  created  a  baronet  by 
Charles  I.  in  1637.  It  afterwards  formed  part  of  the 
possessions  of  the  Duke  of  Lauderdale,  who  gave  it, 
with  his  daughter  in  marriage,  to  the  first  duke  of 
Argyll,  from  whose  successor,  the  fifth  duke,  it  was  pur- 
chased in  1745  by  the  Earl  of  Abercorn,  whose  descend- 
ant, the  Marquess  of  Abercorn,  is  the  present  proprietor. 
The  site  on  which  the  town  of  Portobello  has  been  built, 
formerly  that  portion  of  the  forest  of  Duddingston 
called  the  Figget  Whins,  afforded  shelter  to  Sir  William 
W'allace  and  his  troops  on  their  march  to  attack  the 
town  of  Berwick  ;  and  during  the  parliamentary  war, 
the  Scottish  leaders  held  a  conference  with  the  usurper 
Cromwell  within  this  parish,  previously  to  the  battle  of 
Dunbar.  In  1745,  the  forces  of  the  Pretender  lay  en- 
camped on  a  plain  near  the  village  of  Wester  Dudding- 
ston, now  within  the  demesnes  of  Duddingston  House, 
for  nearly  a  month  before  and  after  their  defeat  of  General 
Cope,  at  Preston  ;  and  the  house  in  which  Prince  Charles 
Edward  slept  on  the  night  previous  to  the  battle  is  still 
remaining. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  west  and  north-west  by 
the  parishes  of  St.  Cuthbert,  the  Canongate,  and  South 
Lcith  ;  on  the  north-east  by  the  Frith  of  Forth  ;  and  on 
the  south  by  the  parishes  of  Inveresk  and  Libberton. 
It  extends  from  the  eastern  base  of  Arthur's  seat  to  the 
Frith,  for  nearly  four  miles  in  length,  and  increases 
gradually  towards  the  east  from  less  than  one  mile  to 
about  two  miles  in  breadth,  comprising  1S12  acres,  of 
which,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  acres  of  woodland 
and  pasture,  the  whole  is  arable.  The  surface  is  gene- 
rally a  level  plain,  sloping  gradually  from  the  base  of 
Arthur's  seat  to  the  Frith.  The  streams  of  the  Powburn 
and  the  Braid  intersect  the  parish,  flowing  through  the 
pleasure-grounds  of  Duddingston  House  to  the  hamlet, 
of  Duddingston-Mills,  whence,  pursuing  their  course 
through  a  narrow  and  romantic  dell,  they  fall  into  the 
Frith  to  the  west  of  Portobello.  There  is  also  a  stream 
called  Brunstane,  which  separates  the  parish  from  Libber- 
ton,  and  joins  the  Frith  near  Magdalene  Bridge.  Dud- 
dingston loch,  a  fine  sheet  of  water  about  a  mile  in  cir- 
cumference, at  the  base  of  Arthur's  seat,  adds  much  to 
the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  and,  by  means  of  a  small 
canal,  supplies  the  rivulets  which  flow  through  the  park. 
The  greater  portion  of  the  parish  was  for  a  long  time  a 
barren  moor,  overgrown  with  furze,  and  partly  covered 
with  sand.     From  this  unprofitable  state,  the  lands  of 

2  Q, 


DUDD 


DUFF 


Prestonfield  were  first  recovered  and  brought  into  culti- 
vation by  their  proprietor  Mr.  Dick,  at  that  time  lord 
provost  of  Edinburgh,  who,  removing  at  his  own  ex- 
pense the  accumulated  refuse  of  the  streets  of  the  city, 
employed  it  as  manure  for  the  improvement  of  his 
land  ;  and  not  long  afterwards,  the  whole  of  the  moor- 
lands in  the  parish  were  reclaimed,  and  brought  into 
profitable  cultivation. 

The  soil  is  generally  clay,  alternated  with  sand,  and 
from  judicious  management  has  been  rendered  extremely 
fertile ;  the  arable  lands  produce  abundant  crops  of  all 
kinds  of  grain,  turnips,  and  potatoes,  and  the  grass  in 
the  parks  is  luxuriantly  rich.  The  system  of  agriculture 
is  in  the  highest  state  of  advancement,  and  all  the  more 
recent  improvements  in  husbandry,  and  in  the  construc- 
tion of  implements,  have  been  fully  adopted.  One  or 
two  cows  of  the  Ayrshire  or  Teeswater  breed  are  kept  on 
each  farm  for  the  use  of  the  family ;  but  scarcely  any 
live  stock  is  reared  in  the  parish.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  Duddingston  is  £21,896.  The  principal  sub- 
strata are,  coal,  sandstone,  and  freestone.  The  coal, 
which  is  very  abundant,  was  formerly  wrought,  but,  from 
the  difficulty  of  clearing  the  mines  from  water,  the 
working  has  been  discontinued  ;  the  mines,  however, 
have  been  lately  leased  to  an  English  gentleman,  who 
has  erected  a  powerful  steam-engine,  and  there  is  every 
prospect  of  their  being  wrought  with  success.  There 
are  some  extensive  quarries  of  good  freestone,  from 
which  materials  have  been  raised  for  the  erection  of  the 
houses  of  Portobello  and  Joppa ;  and  in  the  bed  of  one 
of  the  burns  is  a  stratum  of  black-coloured  stone,  of 
smooth  and  unctuous  appearance,  which,  from  its  sus- 
ceptibility of  a  high  polish,  is  well  adapted  for  mantel- 
pieces and  other  ornamental  purposes.  Strata  of  lime- 
stone and  ironstone  have  been  also  found  on  some  of  the 
lands.  Duddingston  House,  the  seat  of  the  Marquess  of 
Abercorn,  is  a  spacious  and  elegant  mansion  in  the 
Grecian  style,  erected  in  1768,  after  a  design  by  Sir 
William  Chambers,  at  an  expense  of  £30,000.  It  is 
heautifully  situated  in  an  extensive  park  abounding  with 
stately  timber,  and  surrounded  with  pleasure-grounds 
tastefully  laid  out  in  lawns,  shrubberies,  and  walks,  in 
which  are  some  temples  and  other  ornamental  buildings, 
and  enlivened  by  the  windings  of  the  rivulets,  in  which 
are  artificial  islands  of  picturesque  appearance.  Preston- 
field House,  the  seat  of  Sir  Robert  Dick,  Bart.,  is  a  hand- 
some mansion  situated  near  the  loch,  in  an  ample 
demesne  tastefully  laid  out,  and  enriched  with  planta- 
tions; it  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  city  of  Edinburgh, 
to  the  southern  confines  of  which  the  park  nearly 
extends. 

The  village  of  Wester  Duddingston,  where  the  parish 
church  is  situated,  was  formerly  a  large  and  populous 
place,  of  which  the  inhabitants  were  chiefly  employed  in 
weaving.  It  is  at  present  a  small  but  pleasant  village, 
and  consists  mostly  of  detached  villas,  surrounded  with 
gardens  and  pleasure-grounds,  occupied  as  summer  re- 
sidences by  families  of  Edinburgh,  and  some  neat  cot- 
tages inhabited  by  persons  engaged  in  the  various  works 
carried  on  in  the  vicinity.  Many  of  the  females  are  em- 
ployed in  washing  linen,  for  which  the  situation  of  the 
village  near  the  loch  and  its  convenience  for  bleaching 
render  it  peculiarly  adapted.  The  vicinity  abounds  with 
beautiful  scenery,  and  commands  extensive  and  interest- 
ing prospects,  embracing  Cra;g-Millar  Castle,  the  Moor- 
298 


foot,  Lammermoor,  and  Pentland  hills,  with  the  city  of 
Edinburgh,  and  the  Frith  of  Forth  in  the  distance.  The 
village  of  Easter  Duddingston  is  situated  on  an  eminence 
near  the  sea ;  it  consists  only  of  small  cottages  inhabited 
chiefly  by  labourers,  and  is  apparently  falling  into  decay. 
The  hamlet  of  Duddingston-Mills,  near  the  junction  of  the 
Duddingston  and  Portobello  roads,  has  a  pleasingly 
rural  aspect.  Extensive  mills  for  flour  and  barley  were 
erected  here  a  few  years  since,  at  an  expense  of  £6000 ; 
they  are  driven  by  water  and  by  steam,  according  to  cir- 
cumstances, and  contain  machinery  of  the  most  im- 
proved construction.  In  this  hamlet  are  also  situated 
the  parochial  school,  and  the  handsome  buildings  of 
Cauvin's  Hospital.  Facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  excellent  roads ;  a  post-office  has  recently  been 
established  at  Wester  Duddingston,  and  the  Edinburgh 
and  Dalkeith  railway,  from  which  a  branch  diverges  to 
Leith,  passes  through  the  parish. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  and 
presbytery  of  Edinburgh.  The  minister's  stipend,  in- 
cluding £10  for  communion  elements,  is  £300,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum;  patron, 
the  Marquess  of  Abercorn.  The  church  is  a  very 
ancient  structure  in  the  Norman  style,  of  which  it  con- 
tains some  interesting  details,  particularly  a  fine  arch 
separating  the  chancel  from  the  nave;  in  1631,  an 
aisle  was  added  by  the  presbytery  for  the  Hamilton 
family  and  their  tenants.  It  was  enlarged  and  repaired 
in  1840,  and  now  contains  400  sittings.  In  the  church- 
yard are  some  handsome  monuments,  and  an  obelisk  of 
marble  to  the  memory  of  Patrick  Haldane,  Esq.,  of 
Gleneagles.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members 
of  the  United  Associate  Secession,  the  Relief  Congrega- 
tion, and  Independents,  and  an  episcopal  and  a  Roman 
Catholic  chapel.  The  parochial  school  is  attended  by 
about  ninety  children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £40. 
There  is  also  a  subscription  library  in  Wester  Dudding- 
ston, containing  about  400  volumes.  Cauvin's  Hospital 
was  founded  by  Mr.  Louis  Cauvin,  a  French  teacher  in 
Edinburgh,  and  afterwards  a  farmer  in  this  parish,  who 
in  1825  bequeathed  the  greater  portion  of  his  estates  to 
the  lord  provost,  the  principal  of  the  university,  the 
rector  of  the  high  school,  and  the  ministers  of  Dud- 
dingston, Libberton,  and  Newton,  in  trust  for  the  erec- 
tion and  endowment  of  an  hospital  for  the  maintenance 
and  education  of  the  sons  of  poor  teachers,  farmers, 
printers,  or  booksellers,  of  not  less  than  six,  nor  more 
than  eight,  years  of  age.  The  buildings  were  erected  in 
the  villa  style,  in  1S33,  and  contain  the  requisite  accom- 
modations for  twenty-five  boys,  who  are  maintained  in 
the  hospital  for  six'years,  and  instructed  in  the  French, 
Latin,  and  Greek  languages,  the  mathematics,  and  the 
ordinary  branches  of  a  commercial  education,  by  mas- 
ters appointed  by  the  trustees,  who  were  incorporated 
by  charter  in  1837.  The  poor  have  the  proceeds  of  a 
bequest  of  £100  by  Mr.  Kay,  of  Edinburgh,  architect. 

DUFFTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Mortlach, 
county  of  Banff,  |  a  mile  (N.)  from  Mortlach  ;  con- 
taining 770  inhabitants.  This  village,  which  is  situated 
a  short  distance  from  the  junction  of  the  rivers  Fiddich 
and  Dullan,  is  of  recent  growth,  having  arisen  since  the 
year  1817,  when  the  first  of  its  present  buildings  was 
commenced.     A  kind  of  market  for  grain  is  held  here, 


DUFF 


D  U  III 


which  is  occasionally  resorted  to  by  the  dealers  in  the 
neighbourhood,  but  not  on  any  particular  day  ;  and  fairs 
for  the  sale  of  cattle  are  held  five  times  during  the  year. 
There  is  also  a  daily  post ;  and  a  small  prison  has  been 
recently  built  in  the  village,  for  the  temporary  confine- 
ment of  delinquents  previously  to  their  committal. 

DUFFUS,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Elgin  ;  in- 
cluding the  villages  of  Burgh-Head,  Cummingston,  Hope- 
man,  and  the  hamlets  of  Roseisle,  College  of  Roseisle, 
and  Old  Roseisle  ;  and  containing  2529  inhabitants,  of 
whom  159  are  in  the  village  of  New  Duffus,  5  miles 
(W.  N.  W.)  from  Elgin.  The  name  of  Duffus  is  supposed 
to  be  derived  from  the  Gaelic  word  Dubuist,  signifying 
the  black  lake,  in  reference  to  the  lake  of  Spynie,  now 
drained,  or  to  some  other  lake  of  which  there  is  no  trace 
left.  The  parish  was  formerly  remarkable  for  its  castle, 
and  as  the  scene  of  military  operations  ;  and  there  are  se- 
veral monuments  of  antiquity  still  remaining,  with  which 
its  ancient  history  is  closely  interwoven.  The  most  in- 
teresting relics  are  those  of  fortifications  at  Burgh-Head, 
by  some  thought  to  be  Roman,  and  by  others  considered 
as  Danish,  but  most  probably  originally  constructed  by  the 
Romans,  and  afterwards  occupied  by  the  Danes.  The 
works  were  divided  into  two  parts,  a  higher  and  a  lower, 
and  presented  four  strong  ramparts,  built  with  oaken 
logs,  directed  towards  the  small  isthmus  upon  which 
the  village  of  Burgh- Head  now  stands.  A  few  years 
ago  an  obelisk  was  standing  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
parish,  thought  to  have  been  erected  by  Malcolm  II. ,  in 
memory  of  a  victory  over  the  Danes  under  Camus  ;  and 
not  far  from  it  there  was  once  a  village  called  Kaim,  sup- 
posed to  be  the  same  as  that  mentioned  by  the  historian 
Buchanan  as  retaining  the  memorable  name  of  Camus. 
The  village  is  now  removed,  but  the  place  nevertheless 
retains  the  appellation  of  Kaim.  The  castle  of  Duffus, 
of  which  the  picturesque  ruins  are  still  visible,  was  the 
ancient  seat  of  the  lords  of  that  name,  a  branch  of  the 
noble  family  of  Sutherland,  and  who  yet  bear  the  title, 
recently  restored  from  attainder,  though  they  now  pos- 
sess no  property  in  the  district. 

The  parish  is  nearly  six  miles  long  and  three  broad, 
containing  10,000  acres,  and  lies  along  the  Moray 
Frith,  by  which  it  is  bounded  on  the  north,  The  coast 
at  the  east  end  is  rocky  and  very  bold,  and  contains 
some  large  and  remarkable  caverns;  in  the  western  part, 
however,  it  consists  of  a  level  sandy  beach.  Along  the 
shore,  and  for  half  a  mile  inland,  the  surface  is  mostly 
meagre  pasture,  but  very  generally  supposed  to  have  been 
once  richly-cultivated  land,  and"  to  have  been  reduced 
to  its  present  condition  by  the  blowing  of  sand  from  the 
western  beach.  The  remaining  part  of  the  parish,  with 
the  exception  of  two  slight  acclivities,  is  a  continuous 
plain  of  good  ground  in  a  high  state  of  tillage.  The  soil 
in  the  western  district  is  a  black  fertile  earth,  in  some 
places  mixed  with  sand ;  in  the  eastern  quarter  it  is  a 
deep  rich  clay,  similar  in  many  respects  to  the  fine  soil 
in  the  well-known  Carse  of  Gowrie.  The  number  of 
arable  acres  is  53S1,  in  pasture  2962,  and  310  are  under 
wood ;  grain  is  produced  to  a  considerable  extent,  and 
greatly  predominates  in  amount  over  the  green  crops, 
the  annual  value  of  the  former  being  four  times  that  of 
the  latter.  The  cattle  are  mostly  the  Morayshire  breed, 
which  is  very  similar  to  the  Highland,  but  more  bulky. 
The  best  method  of  cultivation  prevails,  and  many  im- 
provements in  every  department  of  husbandry  have  taken 
299 


place,  especially  in  the  breed  of  cattle  ;  the  farm-buildings 
are  generally  thatched  with  straw,  but  substantial,  and 
of  suitable  extent.  The  rocks  consist  of  sandstone  and 
limestone,  of  each  of  which  there  are  quarries.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £7902.  Among  the 
chief  residences  is  Duffus  House,  a  commodious  and 
handsome  mansion  in  the  old  English  manorial  style. 
The  village  of  Duffus  is  regularly  built,  and  is  a  neat, 
clean,  and  interesting  place  ;  the  chief  communication  of 
the  people  is  with  the  town  of  Elgin,  to  which  there  is  a 
good  turnpike-road,  and  a  light  post  curricle  brings  the 
mail.  There  are  three  fisheries  carried  on,  namely  a 
salmon,  herring,  and  white  fishery,  which  generally  prove 
very  profitable.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish 
are  subject  to  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery 
of  Elgin  and  synod  of  Moray  ;  patron,  Sir  Archibald 
Dunbar,  of  Northfield,  Bart.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£232,  with  a  manse,  built  in  1830,  and  a  glebe  of  the 
annual  value  of  £1S.  The  church,  situated  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  population,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  parish,  is  an  old  and  ill-constructed  edifice,  and  of 
unsightly  appearance,  but  with  a  very  picturesque  and 
ancient  porch  :  it  was  repaired  in  the  year  17S2,  and  is 
in  good  condition.  There  is  a  chapel  of  ease  at  Burgh- 
Head,  where  are  also  two  Secession  meeting-houses  ;  and 
near  Kaim  is  an  episcopal  chapel.  A  parochial  school 
is  supported,  in  which  the  classics  and  mathematics  are 
taught,  with  the  usual  branches  of  education;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £36,  a  portion  of  Dick's  bequest,  about 
£12  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden. 

DUIRINISH,  a  parish,  in  the  Isle  of  Skye,  county 
of  Inverness;  containing,  with  the  late  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Waternish,  49S3  inhabitants.  This  place, 
early  in  the  tenth  century,  became  the  property  of  the 
Me  Leods,  by  marriage  of  the  first  of  the  Norman  fa- 
mily of  that  name  with  the  daughter  and  heiress  of 
Mc  Railt,  the  original  possessor  of  the  lands.  Frequent 
feuds  between  the  Mc  Leods  and  the  Mc  Donalds  of 
Uist,  in  which  the  latter  made  many  attempts  to  render 
themselves  masters  of  the  property,  subsisted  for  a  long 
period  ;  but,  with  the  exception  of  certain  portions  of 
land  voluntarily  alienated  by  the  Mc  Leods,  the  whole 
is  still  in  the  possession  of  their  descendants.  While 
a  number  of  the  Mc  Leods  were  met  for  public  worship 
in  the  church,  a  party  of  the  Mc  Donalds,  having  landed 
at  Ardmore,  in  the  district  of  Waternish,  set  fire  to  the 
building  ;  and,  except  one  individual,  the  whole  assem- 
bly perished  in  the  flames.  The  inhabitants,  however, 
whom  the  burning  of  the  church  had  collected  in  great 
numbers,  amply  retaliated  this  barbarous  outrage,  and, 
attacking  the  invaders  before  they  could  regain  their 
ships,  stripped  them  of  their  booty,  and  left  the  entire 
party  dead  upon  the  shore. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  north-east 
by  Lochs  Snizort  and  Grieshernish,  on  the  south  and 
south-east  by  Lochs  Bracadale  and  Carroy,  and  on  the 
west  by  the  channel  of  the  Minch.  It  is  about  nine- 
teen miles  in  extreme  length,  and  nearly  sixteen  miles 
in  extreme  breadth,  comprising  more  than  50,000  Scotch 
acres,  of  which  1900  are  arable,  3000  meadow  and 
pasture,  100  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remain- 
der waste.  The  surface  is  boldly  varied,  rising  in  some 
parts  into  hills  of  considerable  height,  and  in  others  into 
mountains,  whereof  the  most  conspicuous  are  the  Greater 
and  Less  Helvels,  which  have  an  elevation  of  1700  feet 

2  0.2 


DUIR 


DULL 


above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  are  clothed  with  verdure 
to  their  summits,  which  form  a  level  plain.  On  ac- 
count of  their  near  resemblance  in  shape,  they  con- 
stitute an  infallible  landmark  to  mariners,  by  whom 
they  are  called  Mc  Leod's  Tables.  From  the  larger  of 
the  two  mountains  a  range  of  hills  extends  northward, 
terminating  in  Galtrigil  Head,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
bay  of  Dunvegan,  a  bold  and  precipitous  headland 
300  feet  in  height;  and  from  the  smaller  of  the  Hel- 
vels  a  similar  chain  of  hills  stretches  to  the  south,  ter- 
minating in  the  cliffs  of  Idrigil  and  Waterstein,  of  which 
the  former  have  an  elevation  of  400,  and  the  latter  of 
600  feet.  Near  the  point  of  Idrigil  are  three  basaltic 
pillars,  rising  perpendicularly  from  the  sea,  of  which 
one  is  200  feet  in  height,  and  the  two  others  100  feet 
each  ;  they  have  obtained  the  appellation  of  Mc  Leod's 
Maidens,  and  there  was  formerly  a  fourth  pillar,  which 
has  disappeared.  The  coast,  from  its  numerous  inden- 
tations, has  a  range  of  more  than  seventy  miles  in  ex- 
tent, and  is  generally  precipitous  and  rocky ;  but 
within  the  many  bays  and  lochs  the  shore  has  a  mo- 
derate declivity,  forming  commodious  beaches  for  land- 
ing. The  lochs  of  Dunvegan  and  Grieshernish  are  safe 
roadsteads  for  large  vessels  during  all  winds ;  and 
Lochs  Bay,  Poltiel,  and  Carroy,  though  more  exposed, 
afford  good  anchorages  for  ships  in  ordinary  weather. 
Pol-Roag,  a  branch  of  Loch  Carroy,  is  also  a  secure 
shelter,  but  from  the  narrowness  of  its  entrance  is  ac- 
cessible only  to  vessels  of  small  burthen. 

The  soil  is  various,  generally  peat-moss,  with  some 
tracts  of  clay  and  gravel ;  the  chief  crops  are  oats  and 
potatoes.  The  system  of  agriculture,  on  the  larger 
farms,  has  been  improved  within  the  last  few  years ; 
the  farm-houses  are  mostly  commodious,  and  the  fences 
well  kept  up,  but  on  the  smaller  tenements,  which  are 
held  by  cottars  without  leases,  the  plan  of  husbandry  is 
still  in  a  very  backward  state.  The  black-cattle  for- 
merly pastured  on  the  farms  have  been  nearly  super- 
seded by  sheep  of  the  native  Highland  breed,  of  dimi- 
nutive size,  but  of  very  delicate  flavour,  and  remarkable 
for  the  fine  texture  of  their  fleeces  :  within  the  last 
forty  years  the  black-faced  breed  have  been  introduced, 
but  are  now  giving  place  to  those  of  the  Cheviot  breed. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4999.  The 
plantations  are  of  modern  date,  and  are  mainly  confined 
to  the  grounds  of  the  principal  landowners  ;  they  con- 
sist of  oak,  ash,  plane,  beech,  alder,  birch,  and  larch, 
and  Scotch  firs,  which  last,  however,  have  not  succeeded. 
The  substrata  are  chiefly  of  the  trapstone  formation, 
intersected  with  veins  of  basalt  ;  limestone,  containing 
numerous  fossil  shells  ;  coal,  which  is  not  workable  ; 
and  veins  of  sandstone.  The  principal  mansions  in  the 
parish  are,  Orbost,  Grieshernish,  and  Waternish,  all 
handsome  residences  pleasantly  situated.  Considerable 
quantities  of  shell-fish  are  taken  on  the  beach,  and 
several  persons  are  employed  in  the  fisheries  off  the 
coast ;  the  fish  generally  are  cod  and  ling,  which,  after 
being  cured,  are  sent  to  the  markets.  The  manufacture 
ot  kelp  is  also  carried  on,  to  a  moderate  extent.  About 
three  boats,  averaging  ten  tons'  burthen  each,  belong  to 
the  parish  ;  but  no  other  vessels  visit  it  for  the  purpose 
of  trade.  A  post-office  has  been  established  at  Dun- 
vegan ;  and  facility  of  communication  is  maintained  by 
good  roads,  about  thirty-five  miles  of  turnpike-road 
passing  through  the  parish. 
300 


The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Skye  and  synod  of 
Glenelg.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £158,  of  which  one- 
third  part  is  paid  from  the  exchequer,  with  an  allow- 
ance of  £57  in  lieu  of  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£'22.  10.  per  annum;  patron,  Me  Leod  of  Mc  Leod.  The 
church,  erected  in  1824,  is  a  substantial  and  handsome 
structure  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  contains  550 
sittings,  all  of  which  are  free.  An  extension  church, 
containing  330  seats,  has  been  built  in  the  district  of 
Arnizort,  about  twelve  miles  from  the  parish  church  ; 
and  there  is  a  similar  church  on  the  west  side  of 
the  loch  of  Dunvegan.  The  parochial  school  is  ill 
conducted ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  a 
house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £8.  Four 
schools  are  supported  by  the  General  Assembly,  and 
three  by  the  Gaelic  Society.  Among  the  antiquities 
is  the  castle  of  Dunvegan,  the  ancient  baronial  resi- 
dence of  the  Mc  Leods,  of  which  the  oldest  portion  was 
erected  in  the  ninth  century ;  a  portion  was  added  to 
it  in  the  thirteenth,  and  the  two  parts,  consisting  of 
lofty  towers,  were  connected  by  a  range  of  low  building, 
erected  by  Rory  Mor  in  the  reign  of  James  VI.  The 
whole  is  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  lofty  rock,  rising 
precipitously  from  the  sea,  and  an  easier  line  of  approach 
has  lately  been  opened,  by  throwing  a  bridge  across  the 
chasm,  which  separates  it  from  a  neighbouring  rock. 
In  this  castle  are  preserved,  the  celebrated  banner 
called  the  "Fairy  flag,"  taken  by  the  Mc  Leods  from 
the  Saracens  during  the  crusades  ;  an  ancient  drinking- 
cup  of  hard  dark  wood,  supported  on  four  silver  feet, 
and  striped  with  ribs  of  highly-wrought  silver  set  with 
precious  stones,  of  which  some  are  still  remaining  ;  and 
Rory  Mor's  horn,  a  drinking-cup  of  much  larger  dimen- 
sions, containing  five  English  pints,  and  noticed  by 
Sir  Walter  Scott.  There  are  numerous  caverns  in  the 
rocks  along  the  coast,  one  of  which  is  120  feet  in 
length,  forty  feet  in  height,  and  ten  feet  wide ;  and  the 
cave  of  Idrigil  is  resorted  to  by  the  fishermen  for  dry- 
ing their  nets,  curing  fish,  and  dressing  their  victuals. 
The  parish  likewise  contains  many  barrows,  circular 
forts,  and  subterraneous  dwellings,  in  one  of  which, 
on  the  farm  of  Vatten,  a  long  narrow  passage  leads 
into  a  central  room  arched  with  stone,  from  which 
branch  off  several  galleries  conducting  to  other  apart- 
ments, which  have  not  been  explored.  Some  rude 
sepulchral  urns  of  reddish  clay  have  been  dug  up  ; 
one  of  these  is  in  the  possession  of  Mc  Leod  of  Mc 
Leod,  and  another  has  been  deposited  in  the  Glasgow 
Hunterian  Museum. 

DULL,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth,  4  miles 
(W.  by  N.)  from  Aberfeldy  ;  containing,  with  parts  of 
the  late  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Foss  and  Tenandry, 
and  part  of  the  village  of  Aberfeldy,  3811  inhabitants, 
of  whom  145  are  in  the  village  of  Dull.  This  place,  of 
which  the  name  is  descriptive  of  a  plain,  appears  to 
have  been  celebrated  for  a  monastery  founded  here  at  a 
very  early  period,  and  which  formed  one  of  the  only 
three  Abthaneries  existing  in  the  kingdom.  These  pecu- 
liar establishments,  of  which  the  superior  had  the  title 
of  Abthane,  were  at  Dull,  Kirkmichael,  and  Madderty; 
and  Edgar,  King  of  Scotland,  conferred  all  of  them 
upon  his  younger  brother,  Ethelred,  then  abbot  of  Dun- 
keld,  whose  successor,  Hugh,  granted  the  monastery 
of  Dull  to  the  priory   of  St.  Andrew's.     The    parish, 


DULL 


DULL 


which  comprises  the  districts  of  Appin,  Grandtully, 
Amulrie,  Foss,  and  Fincastle,  is  about  thirty  miles  in 
length,  but,  from  its  intersection  by  other  parishes,  is 
of  very  irregular  form,  varying  from  four  to  twelve 
miles  in  breadth,  and  comprising  about  135,000  acres, 
of  which  19,000  are  arable,  pasture,  and  meadow,  3000 
woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  moor  and 
waste.  The  surface  is  divided,  throughout  its  whole 
length  by  several  parallel  ranges  of  hills,  forming  part 
of  the  Grampians,  and  gradually  diminishing  in  height 
towards  the  north-east,  and  between  which  are  the  beau- 
tiful vales  of  Glenquaieh,  Appin,  Foss,  and  Fincastle. 
Of  these  ranges  the  highest  is  the  central  range,  divid- 
ing the  vale  of  Appin  from  that  of  Foss,  and  containing 
a  portion  of  the  mountain  Schiehallion,  which  has  an 
elevation  of  356-t  feet,  and  is  partly  in  the  parish  of 
Fortingal,  and  the  hill  of  Farragon,  which  is  wholly  in 
this  parish,  and  is  2535  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
In  this  range  is  the  Craig  of  Dull,  a  lofty  rock,  com- 
manding from  its  summit  an  extensive  and  diversified 
prospect,  embracing  the  richly-cultivated  vales  of  Appin 
and  Fortingal,  Loch  Tay,  the  bridge  of  Kenmore,  the 
noble  mansion  and  wooded  grounds  of  Taymouth,  and 
a  great  variety  of  picturesque  Highland  scenery. 

The  principal  river  is  the  Tay,  which,  after  flowing 
through  the  grounds  of  Taymouth,  in  the  parish  of 
Kenmore,  enters  this  parish,  and,  pursuing  its  course 
along  the  vale  of  Appin,  which  it  sometimes  partially 
inundates,  runs  north  of  the  village  of  Aberfeldy  into 
the  parish  of  Logierait.  The  river  Lyon,  which  has  its 
source  in  Loch  Lyon,  in  the  parish  of  Fortingal,  enters 
this  parish  at  Coshieville,  and,  taking  a  south-easterly 
direction,  separates  Dull  from  Weera,  and  flows  into 
the  Tay  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  hill  of  Drummond. 
The  Quakh,  rising  among  the  hills  in  Kenmore,  expands, 
after  a  course  of  nearly  eight  miles,  into  the  Loch 
Fraochy,  in  the  valley  of  Glenquaieh,  on  the  southern 
border  of  the  parish.  The  river  Tummel,  issuing  from 
Loch  Rannoch,  flows  in  an  easterly  course  into  Loch 
Tummel,  forming  the  northern  boundary  of  the  pa- 
rish ;  and  the  Garry,  which  has  its  source  in  Loch 
Garry,  in  the  parish  of  Blair-Atholl,  intersects  the 
north-eastern  portion  of  the  lands.  These  rivers  form 
several  interesting  and  highly  picturesque  cascades, 
of  which  the  chief  are  the  falls  of  Keltnie,  Camserney, 
Tummel,  and  Moness  ;  and  in  the  Lyon  and  Tummel 
are  found  pearl-muscles,  some  containing  pearls  of 
large  size  and  of  brilliant  lustre.  There  are  likewise 
numerous  lakes  in  the  parish,  of  which  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal is  Loch  Tummel,  described  under  the  head  of  Blair- 
Atholl,  on  the  boundary  of  which  it  is  situated.  Loch 
Fraochy  is  about  two  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  and  half 
a  mile  in  breadth  ;  on  the  south  bank  is  a  shooting- 
seat,  the  property  of  the  Marquess  of  Breadalbane,  the 
demesne  attached  to  which  is  embellished  with  planta- 
tions. Trout  of  small  size,  but  of  excellent  flavour, 
afford  sport  to  the  angler,  for  whose  accommodation 
there  is  an  excellent  inn  about  half  a  mile  distant.  Loch 
Ceannard,  situated  in  the  hills  of  Grandtully,  is  nearly 
a  mile  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  and  is 
surrounded  with  bleak  and  barren  mountains.  Nearly 
in  its  centre  is  a  small  islet,  on  which  are  the  ruins  of 
an  ancient  shooting-lodge,  almost  surrounded  with 
plantations  of  larch,  affording  shelter  to  flocks  of  black- 
game  ;  and  on  the  north  bank  of  the  loch  is  a  neat 
301 


modern  villa  in  the  cottage  style.  There  are  many  small 
lakes  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  all  of  which  abound 
with  trout,  pike,  and  perch. 

The  soil  in  several  parts  is  a  rich  loam  alternated  with 
clay,  and  in  others  light  and  gravelly  ;  in  some  of  the 
districts  is  found  a  thin  brownish  loam  mixed  with  sand, 
and  in  others  a  wet  moss.  The  chief  crops  arc,  oats, 
barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the  system  of  husbandry 
in  the  vale  of  Appin  is  in  a  highly  advanced  state,  and 
elsewhere  has  been  much  improved  under  the  auspices 
of  the  Highland  Society.  Great  attention  is  paid  to 
the  improvement  of  live  stock,  and  to  dairy-farming. 
The  cattle,  of  which  about  5000  are  reared,  are  generally 
of  the  West  Highland  breed,  with  a  few  of  the  Ayrshire 
on  the  dairy-farms  ;  and  the  sheep,  of  which  more  than 
1S,000  are  fed,  are  of  the  black-faced  breed,  with  some 
of  the  Cheviot  and  Leicestershire  on  the  lower  grounds. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £11,649. 
There  are  considerable  remains  of  natural  wood,  con- 
sisting of  birch,  interspersed  with  oak,  ash,  hazel,  willow, 
alder,  and  mountain-ash  ;  and  very  extensive  planta- 
tions of  beech,  ash,  plane,  elm,  oak,  Scotch  and  spruce 
firs,  and  larch,  which  last  is  predominant,  are  under 
careful  management,  and  in  a  thriving  state.  The  rocks 
are  chiefly  of  mica-slate,  intermixed  with  quartz, 
granite,  and  hornblende ;  and  the  principal  substrata 
are  whinstone  and  limestone,  the  former  used  for  the 
roads,  and  the  latter,  of  which  a  quarry  has  been  opened 
at  Tomphobuil,  for  manure.  An  attempt  for  the  dis- 
covery of  coal  has  been  made,  but  without  success. 

Grandtully  Castle,  the  baronial  seat  for  many  gene- 
rations of  a  branch  of  the  ancient  Stewart  family,  and 
now  the  residence  of  Sir  William  D.  Stewart,  Bart.,  is 
a  venerable  turreted  mansion  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
river  Tay;  and  Cluny,  Derculich,  Foss,  and  Moness, 
are  all  handsome  houses,  finely  situated.  In  the  village 
of  Aberfeldy  the  woollen  manufacture  is  carried  on  to  a 
moderate  extent,  there  being  a  dye-mill,  with  machinery 
for  carding  and  spinning  ;  and  at  the  hamlet  of  Cam- 
serney, a  carpet  manufactory  was  established  by  Sir 
Niel  Menzies,  Bart.,  which  affords  employment  to  about 
thirty  persons.  There  are  likewise  a  saw-mill  and  a 
wheelwright's  establishment,  in  which  latter  bobbins  are 
also  made,  for  the  Dundee  market.  Fairs  are  held  at 
Aberfeldy,  for  cattle,  sheep,  and  horses,  on  the  first 
Thursday  in  January,  the  Tuesday  before  Kenmore  fair 
in  March,  the  last  Thursday  in  May,  the  last  Friday 
in  July,  the  last  Thursday  in  October,  and  the  first 
Thursday  in  November  (all  O.  S.).  Fairs  for  cattle  and 
sheep  are  also  held  at  Amulrie,  on  the  first  Tuesday 
and  Wednesday  in  May  and  the  Friday  before  the  first 
Wednesday  in  November  ;  at  Coshieville  on  the  last 
Thursday  in  October  and  the  day  before  Fortingal 
fair  in  December;  at  Tummel-Bridge  on  the  last  Friday 
in  October;  and  at  Foss  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  March, 
for  horses  and  general  business.  A  sheriff's  court  for 
small  debts,  which  has  jurisdiction  also  over  the  parishes 
of  Kenmore,  Killin,  Fortingal,  Weem,  and  part  of  the 
parishes  of  Logierait  and  Little  Dunkeld,  is  held  quar- 
terly at  Aberfeldy,  and  has  nearly  superseded  the 
justice-of-peace  courts  at  Weem,  within  which  dis- 
trict Dull  is  comprehended.  There  is  a  post-office  at 
Aberfeldy,  and  a  branch  office  has  been  opened  at 
Amulrie  ;  facility  of  communication  is  maintained  by 
good  turnpike-roads. 


DUMB 


DUMB 


The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Weem  and  synod  of  Perth 
and  Stirling.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £257.  18.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £40  per  annum  ;  patron, 
the  Crown.  The  church,  situated  in  the  village  of  Dull, 
is  an  ancient  structure,  repaired  and  reseated  in  1840, 
and  contains  600  sittings,  all  free.  A  church  to  which 
a  quoad  sacra  district  was  for  a  short  time  assigned,  has 
been  erected  at  Foss  by  parliamentary  grant.  There 
are  also  chapels  in  connexion  with  the  Established 
Church  at  Amulrie  and  Grandtully,  under  the  patronage 
of  the  General  Assembly,  The  minister  of  the  former 
has  a  stipend  of  £65,  wholly  from  the  Royal  Bounty, 
and  the  minister  of  the  latter  has  £90,  of  which  £40 
are  paid  by  Sir  William  D.  Stewart,  and  the  remainder 
from  the  Royal  Bounty  ;  each  minister  has  also  a  manse, 
and  about  five  acres  of  arable  land  rent  free  from  the 
proprietors.  At'  Tummel  Bridge  is  an  episcopal  chapel. 
The  parochial  school  is  well  attended ;  the  master  has 
a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  £14.  Of  the  monastery  no  vestiges  remain, 
with  the  exception  of  a  heap  of  shapeless  rubbish  near 
the  village  of  Dull,  supposed  to  be  the  ruins  of  the 
abbey  church.  The  ancient  cross,  around  which  was 
a  sanctuary,  whose  limits  were  marked  out  by  three 
crosses  of  similar  form,  but  recently  removed,  is  still 
remaining  ;  and  there  are  numerous  barrows  and  tumuli, 
of  which  one,  at  the  bridge  of  Keltnie,  now  covered 
with  plantations,  has  every  appearance  of  an  artificial 
intrenchment,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  site  of 
a  battle  between  the  Fingalians  and  Picts.  In  1S36, 
on  removing  a  large  barrow  of  stones  between  the  inn 
at  Coshieville  and  the  river  Lyon,  Mr.  Menzies  disco- 
vered about  twelve  stone  coffins,  rudely  formed  of  slabs, 
in  some  of  which  were  found  urns  containing  ashes,  and 
in  others  ashes  and  human  bones  only.  In  the  lands 
of  Croftmoraig  are  the  remains  of  a  Druidical  circle, 
nearly  complete ;  and  in  the  vale  of  Appin  are  several 
upright  stones,  of  which  some  are  in  groups,  and  others 
standing  alone. 

DUMBARNEY,  county  of  Perth. — See  Dunbarny. 

DUMBARTON,  a  royal 
burgh,  the  county  town, 
and  a  parish,  in  the  county 
of  Dumbarton,  15  miles 
(N.  W.)  from  Glasgow,  and 
58  (\V.  by  S.)  from  Edin- 
burgh ;  containing  3828  in- 
habitants, of  whom  37S2  are 
in  the  burgh.  This  place 
derives  its  name,  originally 
Dunhriton,  from  an  ancient 
fortress  which,  though  its 
founders  are  unknown,  be- 
came the  principal  seat  of  the  Strathclyde  Britons,  who 
at  a  very  remote  period  established  themselves  in  this 
part  of  the  kingdom.  The  Romans,  however,  during 
their  invasions  of  Britain,  made  themselves  masters  of 
this  fortress  and  of  the  territories  adjacent ;  and  there 
are  still  some  vestiges  remaining  of  a  lighthouse  they 
erected  on  the  western  peak  of  the  rock  on  which  the 
castle  is  built,  for  the  accommodation  of  their  galleys 
stationed  in  the  Clyde,  which  flows  round  its  base. 
After  the  departure  of  the  Romans,  the  Britons  of 
Strathclyde  quickly  repossessed  themselves  of  their 
302 


Bursh  Seal. 


previous  settlements,  which  they  maintained  against 
all  the  assaults  of  the  Picts  and  Scots  for  nearly  a  hun- 
dred years,  till  they  were  finally  expelled  in  756  by 
Egbert,  king  of  Northumbria.  Some  historians  identify 
the  place,  while  in  the  hands  of  the  Britons,  with 
Alcluyd,  supposed  to  have  been  the  Balclutha  celebrated 
in  the  poems  of  Ossian ;  but  this  rests  upon  very 
doubtful  authority. 

The  castle  was  made  a  royal  fortress  at  a  very  early 
date,  and  the  town  which  had  arisen  under  its  protec- 
tion was,  in  1222,  erected  into  a  royal  burgh  by  Alex- 
ander II.,  who,  in  1238,  granted  a  charter  to  the  Earl 
of  Lennox,  confirming  to  him  the  earldom  and  its  pos- 
sessions, with  the  exception  of  the  castle  and  some 
lands  adjoining.  During  the  disputed  succession  to  the 
Scottish  throne  on  the  death  of  Alexander  III.,  the 
castle,  which,  with  many  others,  had  been  surrendered 
to  the  custody  of  Edward  I.  of  England,  was,  in  1298, 
delivered  by  that  monarch  to  John  Baliol,  whom  he 
declared  to  be  the  rightful  heir  to  the  crown.  After 
various  captures  and  recaptures,  the  castle  again  fell 
into  the  hands  of  Edward,  who,  in  1305,  placed  it  under 
the  government  of  Sir  John  Monteith,  during  whose 
occupation  the  heroic  Wallace,  being  treacherously  made 
prisoner,  was  delivered  into  the  power  of  his  inveterate 
enemy,  and  sent  to  England  for  trial.  The  castle  was 
taken  by  Robert  the  Bruce  in  1300 ;  and  during  the 
siege  of  Dumbarton  by  the  English  fleet  in  14S1,  it  was 
bravely  defended  by  its  governor,  Andrew  Wood,  to 
whom,  for  his  services  on  that  occasion,  James  III. 
granted  the  lands  of  Largo,  in  the  county  of  Fi  fe.  In 
the  beginning  of  the  reign  of  James  IF.,  the  castle  had 
been  placed  under  the  custody  of  the  Earl  of  Lennox, 
on  whose  attainder  for  rebellion  his  estates  and  title 
became  forfeited  to  the  crown,  and  the  castle  was  be- 
sieged by  the  Earl  of  Argyll,  chancellor  of  Scotland  ; 
but  its  strength  resisted  all  his  efforts,  and  it  was  not 
till  after  a  protracted  siege  by  a  numerous  force,  headed 
by  the  king  in  person,  that  the  garrison  surrendered. 
After  the  disastrous  battle  of  Pinkie  in  1547,  Mary,  the 
young  Queen  of  Scots,  was  conveyed  for  safety  to  the 
castle  of  Dumbarton,  where  she  remained  till  her  em- 
barkation for  France  ;  and  after  her  return,  she  visited 
the  town  while  on  an  excursion  into  Argyllshire.  During 
the  hostilities  consequent  on  the  deposition  of  the 
queen,  the  castle  was  held  for  her  by  Lord  Fleming 
for  a  considerable  time;  but  in  1571  it  was  surprised 
and  taken  for  the  regent  by  Captain  Crawford,  who, 
having  learned  by  bribery  the  easiest  mode  of  access, 
succeeded  by  scaling  the  walls,  and  Hamilton,  Arch- 
bishop of  St.  Andrew's,  was  made  prisoner,  and  after- 
wards hanged  at  Stirling. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  war  in  the  reign  of 
Charles  I.,  the  castle,  which  was  garrisoned  by  the 
royalists,  was  taken  by  the  parliamentarians  in  1639, 
but  was  soon  recovered  by  the  king's  forces ;  it  again, 
however,  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  republicans,  and  the 
Scottish  parliament  ordered  the  fortifications  to  be 
destroyed.  This  order,  however,  was  not  carried  into 
effect,  and  in  1652  it  was  garrisoned  by  Oliver  Cromwell ; 
and  at  the  time  of  the  union  of  the  two  kingdoms,  the 
ancient  castle  was  one  of  the  forts  ordered  to  be  kept 
in  repair.  The  present  garrison  consists  of  a  governor, 
lieutenant-governor,  barrack-master,  store-keeper,  and 
surgeon,  with  thirty  rank  and  file,  and  twelve  artillery 


DUMB 


DUMB 


of  the  royal  corps.  The  buildings  are  situated  on  a 
stupendous  rock  rising  precipitously  from  the  Clyde  to 
a  height  of  350  feet,  and  dividing  into  two  conical  peaks 
of  nearly  equal  elevation.  The  entrance,  which  is  far 
below  the  point  where  the  rock  divides,  is  defended  by 
a  rampart  containing  the  guard-house  and  apartments 
for  the  officers,  whence  a  long  flight  of  steps  leads  to 
the  interval  between  the  summits.  Here  are  the  bar- 
racks for  the  garrison,  a  battery,  and  a  well  of  excellent 
water,  behind  which  is  the  governor's  house.  Above 
these,  on  the  lower  summit  of  the  rock,  are  several 
batteries,  strongly  mounted,  and  commanding  an  exten- 
sive range  of  the  Clyde,  and  at  high-water  the  rock  is 
very  nearly  insulated  by  the  river  Leven.  The  higher 
summit  of  the  rock,  to  which  the  ascent  is  precipitously 
steep,  still  retains  the  name  of  Wallace's  Seat,  and  that 
portion  of  the  castle  in  which  he  was  confined  is  called 
Wallace's  Tower.  Among  other  relics  of  antiquity  is 
a  large  two-handed  sword,  said  to  have  belonged  to 
that  hero. 

The  town  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river 
Leven,  near  its  influx  into  the  Clyde,  and  consists 
principally  of  one  street  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  from 
which  several  smaller  streets  diverge.  It  is  connected 
with  a  suburb  on  the  west  side  of  the  Leven  by  a  hand- 
some stone  bridge  of  five  arches,  nearly  300  feet  in 
length.  The  houses  are  well  built ;  the  streets  are 
paved,  and  lighted  with  gas,  and  the  inhabitants  are 
amply  supplied  with  water.  There  is  a  public  subscrip- 
tion library,  with  a  collection  of  more  than  2000 
volumes,  and  two  reading  and  news  rooms  are  sup- 
ported by  subscription.  The  chief  manufacture  is  that 
of  glass,  which  was  formerly  carried  on  to  a  very  great 
extent,  paying  at  one  time  duties  to  government  amount- 
ing to  £119,000  per  annum;  it  is  still  very  consider- 
able, and  the  principal  articles  are  crown  and  bottle 
glass.  There  are  tanneries,  rope-walks,  and  brick  and 
tile  works,  and  various  handicraft  trades  are  pursued, 
for  the  supply  of  the  neighbourhood ;  ship-building  is 
also  carried  on  in  three  commodious  yards  belonging  to 
the  town,  and  in  another  in  the  adjoining  parish  of 
Cardross.  There  are  some  good  salmon-fisheries  in  the 
Clyde  and  Leven.  The  latter  river  is  navigable  at 
high-water,  for  vessels  of  large  burthen,  to  the  quay  of 
Dumbarton ;  but  at  low  tides,  a  bar  and  some  sand- 
banks at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  though  partly  removed, 
allow  access  only  to  steamers  and  small  vessels.  The 
number  of  vessels  employed  in  the  trade  of  the  port  is 
about  forty,  of  1220  tons'  aggregate  burthen. 

The  market,  which  is  on  Tuesday,  is  amply  supplied 
with  grain  and  with  provisions  of  all  kinds  ;  and  fairs 
are  held  on  the  third  Tuesday  in  March  and  May,  the 
Thursday  before  Easter,  the  first  Wednesday  in  June, 
which  is  a  large  cattle  mart,  and  the  second  Tuesday 
in  August  and  November.  The  post-office  has  two  daily 
deliveries  ;  and  branches  of  the  Commercial  and  West- 
ern banks,  and  several  insurance  agencies,  have  been 
established  in  the  town.  Facility  of  communication  is 
afforded  by  steam-boats,  which  ply  thrice  a  day  to 
Greenock  and  Glasgow  ;  and  in  summer  there  is  a  daily 
conveyance  for  passengers  to  the  Loch  Lomond  steamers, 
which  touch  at  Balloch.  By  charter  of  Alexander  II., 
extended  by  several  of  his  successors,  and  confirmed  by 
charter  of  James  VI.,  who  added  a  grant  of  land,  the 
town  possesses  all  the  privileges  of  a  royal  burgh  ; 
303 


and  under  the  Municipal  Reform  act,  the  government 
is  vested  in  a  provost,  two  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild, 
treasurer,  and  ten  councillors.  There  are  five  incor- 
porated guilds,  viz.,  the  hammermen,  tailors,  shoe- 
makers, coopers,  and  weavers,  for  admission  into  which 
the  fees  are  inconsiderable,  the  highest  not  exceeding 
£1.  2.  The  magistrates  have  civil  and  criminal  juris- 
diction within  the  royalty,  for  which  they  hold  courts 
as  occasion  requires,  assisted  by  the  town-clerk,  who 
acts  as  assessor ;  but  the  business  has  of  late  years 
been  chiefly  brought  before  the  sheriff  of  the  county, 
who  holds  sheriff  and  commissary  courts  every  Thurs- 
day during  the  session,  and  small-debt  courts  every 
alternate  Thursday.  The  burgh  is  associated  with 
those  of  Kilmarnock,  Renfrew,  Rutherglen,  and  Port- 
Glasgow,  in  returning  a  member  to  the  imperial  parlia- 
ment ;  the  number  of  qualified  voters  is  1*0,  of  whom 
163  are  burgesses.  The  county  gaol  and  court-house 
are  at  the  end  of  the  main  street. 

The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  river 
Clyde,  and  on  the  west  by  the  river  Leven,  which  sepa- 
rates it  from  Cardross  ;  it  is  from  seven  to  eight  miles 
in  extreme  length,  and  from  three  to  four  in  breadth, 
and  comprises  6529  acres.  The  surface  in  the  south 
is  level  for  nearly  two  miles  from  the  Clyde,  but  after- 
wards rises  abruptly  towards  the  north,  becoming  chiefly 
moorland  diversified  with  small  hills  of  moderate 
height.  The  scenery  is  in  many  parts  beautifully  pic- 
turesque. The  soil,  though  in  some  places  shallow,  is 
generally  fertile,  partly  clay  alternated  with  gravel,  and 
the  lands  are  in  a  good  state  of  cultivation ;  the  crops 
are,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  bear,  peas,  and  beans,  with  the 
usual  grasses.  The  system  of  husbandry  is  improved  ; 
the  lands  are  inclosed,  principally  with  fences  of  thorn, 
which  are  well  kept,  and  the  farm-houses  and  offices 
are  substantial,  and  commodiously  arranged.  The  sub- 
strata are  chiefly  limestone  and  sandstone ;  of  the 
former  there  is  an  extensive  supply  at  Murroch  glen, 
and  on  Dumbarton  moor  are  quarries  of  red  freestone. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £10,810. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  the  presbytery  of  Dumbarton  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £233,  with 
a  manse,  and  an  allowance  of  £16  in  lieu  of  glebe  ;  pa- 
trons, the  Town  Council.  The  present  church,  built 
about  1810,  and  situated  in  the  town,  is  a  spacious 
structure  containing  1500  sittings.  A  missionary  is 
established  here,  who  receives  a  stipend  of  £52,  raised 
by  subscription  ;  and  there  are  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church  and  United  Associate 
Synod,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel.  The  parochial 
school  is  attended  by  nearly  200  children  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £40,  with  a  school-house,  and  the 
fees,  though  very  moderate,  are  considerable  from  the 
number  of  scholars.  The  school  is  under  the  patronage 
of  the  council.  Dr.  Smollett,  author  of  Roderick  Random, 
received  the  rudiments  of  his  education  in  the  parish  ; 
and  Dr.  Colquhoun,  author  of  a  treatise  on  the  Wealth, 
Power,  and  Resources  of  the  British  Empire,  was  born 
here.  The  town  conferred  the  title  of  Earl  on  the 
Douglas  family,  but  it  became  extinct  on  the  demise  of 
the  second  earl  without  issue,  about  the  middle  of  the 
last  century. 

DUMBARTONSHIRE,    a  county,  in   the   west   of 
Scotland,  bounded  on  the  north  by  Perthshire,  on  the 


DUMB 


DUMB 


east  by  the  counties  of  Perth  and  Stirling,  on  the 
south  by  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  and  on  the  west  by  Argyll- 
shire. It  lies  between  55°  53'  30"  and  56°  19'  40" 
(N.  Lat.)  and  3°  54'  50"  and  4°  53' (W.  Long.),  and,  includ- 
ing the  detached  parishes  of  Kirkintilloch  and  Cumber- 
nauld, which  extend  towards  the  east  for  12  miles  between 
the  counties  of  Stirling  and  Lanark,  is  about  57  miles 
in  length.  It  varies  from  24  to  2  miles  in  breadth,  and 
contains  an  area  of  26l  square  miles,  or  167,040  acres; 
8369  houses,  of  which  7985  are  inhabited;  and  a  popula- 
tion of  44,296,  of  whom  22,542  are  males,  and  21,754 
females.  This  district  was  originally  inhabited  by  the 
British  tribe  of  the  Attacotti,  whose  descendants  retained 
their  possessions  long  after  the  British  kingdom  of 
Strathelyde  had  been  subdued  by  Kenneth  Mc  Alpine, 
and  subsisted  as  a  distinct  race  till  the  middle  of  the 
twelfth  century.  That  part  of  the  county  bordering  on 
the  river  Leven  obtained  the  appellation  of  Levenach, 
afterwards  corrupted  into  Lennox,  and,  in  the  reign 
of  William  the  Lion,  belonged  to  a  powerful  Saxon 
family,  of  whom  Alwyn  was  by  that  monarch  created  Earl 
of  Lennox.  The  earldom  was  subsequently  raised  to  a 
dukedom  ;  and  on  the  demise  of  the  sixth  duke  without 
issue,  the  title  and  estates  were  conferred  upon  Charles 
Lennox,  whom  Charles  II.  created  Duke  of  Richmond. 
During  the  disputes  relating  to  the  succession  to  the 
throne  after  the  death  of  Alexander  III.,  the  county  was 
frequently  the  seat  of  war  ;  and  the  castle  of  Dumbarton 
was  alternately  in  the  possession  of  the  contending  par- 
ties. Prior  to  the  Reformation  the  county  was  included 
in  the  diocese  of  Glasgow;  at  present  it  is  in  the  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  comprises  a  large  part  of  the 
presbytery  of  Dumbarton,  and  a  portion  of  that  of  Glas- 
gow, and  twelve  parishes.  The  various  courts  are  held 
at  Dumbarton,  which  is  the  county  town,  and  the  only 
royal  burgh  ;  there  are  four  burghs  of  baron)',  and  several 
villages.  Under  the  act  of  the  2nd  of  William  IV.,  the 
county  returns  one  member  to  the  imperial  parliament. 

The  surface  is  strikingly  diversified  with  mountains 
and  lakes,  and  displays  an  interesting  combination  of  the 
most  beautiful  features  of  Highland  scenery,  embracing 
straths  of  rich  fertility  and  pleasing  appearance.  The 
northern  part  of  the  county  abounds  with  mountains  of 
majestic  elevation,  and  throughout  the  whole  of  that  dis- 
trict, which  comprises  an  area  of  nearly  fifty  square 
miles,  not  more  than  400  acres  have  been  subjected  to 
the  plough.  The  southern  district,  though  less  elevated, 
consists  of  two  ridges  of  hills  of  considerable  height, 
reaching  from  east  to  west,  between  which  is  the  pictu- 
resque vale  of  Glenfruin,  more  than  five  miles  in  length. 
The  highest  of  the  mountains  are  Ben-Voirlich,  near 
the  north-western  extremity  of  Loch  Lomond,  rising 
3300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ;  Ben-Cruachanstean, 
Corafuar,  Shantron,  Beneich,  and  Doune,  some  of  which 
attain  an  elevation  of  5000  feet ;  and  Ben-Finnart,  2500 
feet  in  height.  The  Kilpatrick  braes,  in  the  south  of  the 
county,  are  a  beautiful  range  of  hills  intersecting  an 
extensive  tract  of  lowland  in  high  cultivation,  and  have 
an  elevation  of  1200  feet,  commanding  from  their  sum- 
mits richly-varied  prospects  over  a  most  interesting  dis- 
trict of  the  country.  The  principal  lake  is  Loch  Lomond, 
which,  after  intersecting  a  small  portion  of  the  county 
on  the  north,  forms  part  of  its  eastern  boundary,  sepa- 
rating it  from  Stirling.  This  noble  expanse  of  water  is 
about  twenty-four  miles  in  length  from  north  to  south, 
304 


and  seven  miles  broad  in  the  widest  part,  and  is  studded 
with  numerous  picturesque  islands,  of  which  the  chief 
are,  Inch-Murin,  Inch-Lonaig,  Inch-Tavanach,  Inch- 
Moan,  Inch-Conachan,  and  Iuch-Galbraith,  exclusively 
of  other  islands  in  that  part  of  it  included  within  Stirling. 
The  river  Leven  issues  from  the  loch  at  its  southern 
extremity,  and,  after  a  course  of  about  seven  miles,  flows 
into  the  Frith  of  Clyde.  There  are  several  other  lakes 
in  the  county,  of  which  Loch  Sloy,  in  the  parish  of 
Arrochar,  was  formerly  the  rendezvous  of  the  clan 
Mac  Farlane ;  it  is  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  half 
a  mile  broad.  In  the  parishes  of  Old  Kilpatrick  and 
Cumbernauld  are  several  of  considerable  extent.  There 
are  also  two  salt-water  lakes,  Loch  Gareloch  and  Loch 
Long,  between  which  the  parish  of  Roseneath  forms  a 
peninsula  ;  they  both  extend  northward  from  the  Frith 
of  Clyde,  the  former  intersecting  the  county  for  about 
six  miles,  and  the  latter  forming  its  boundary  on  the 
west. 

About  one-third  of  the  land  is  in  cultivation,  and 
the  remainder  is  mountain  pasture,  wood,  and  lakes. 
The  soil  along  the  borders  of  the  Frith  and  the  river 
Leven  is  a  deep  black  loam  ;  in  some  parts  of  the  county 
is  a  gravelly  loam,  and  in  others  clay,  resting  on  a  tilly 
bottom.  The  system  of  agriculture  on  the  best  farms  is 
equal  to  any  in  the  west  of  Scotland  ;  the  land  is  well 
drained  and  inclosed  ;  much  waste  has  been  brought 
into  cultivation  ;  the  farm-buildings  are  substantial  and 
commodious,  and  considerable  improvement  has  been 
gradually  taking  place.  The  mountains  afford  good 
pasture  for  cattle,  which  are  chiefly  of  the  Highland 
breed,  and  the  cows  pastured  on  the  lowlands  for  the 
dairy  are  the  pure  Ayrshire,  with  a  mixture  of  the  Ayr- 
shire and  the  Highland  breeds.  The  sheep  are  generally 
the  black-faced  on  the  hill  pastures,  and  the  Cheviot 
breed  on  the  lowlands.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
county  is  £147,080.  The  substrata  are  mostly  mica- 
slate,  limestone,  and  coal ;  the  mica-slate  is  wrought  at 
the  quarries  of  Luss  and  Camstradden,  and  the  seams 
are  frequently  traversed  by  veins  of  quartz,  and  abound 
with  pyrites  of  iron.  The  limestone  is  of  a  deep  blue  or 
almost  black  colour,  and  is  extensively  wrought,  as  is 
the  coal,  which  is  found  in  seams  nearly  five  feet  in 
thickness  ;  sandstone  and  trap  are  also  abundant,  and 
columnar  basalt  occurs  in  several  parts.  The  woods 
and  plantations  are  in  a  thriving  condition;  the  soil 
appears  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  timber,  and  the 
extensive  tracts  of  wood  add  greatly  to  the  appearance 
of  the  scenery.  The  seats  are,  Cumbernauld,  Roseneath, 
Rossdhu,  Balloch,  Tilliechewen,  Strath-Leven,  Arden- 
connell,  Auchintorlie,  Ardincaple,  Cames-Eskan,  Gars- 
cube,  Broomly,  Woodbank,  and  Cameron.  The  chief 
manufactures  are  those  of  glass  and  glass  bottles ;  there 
are  also  some  cotton-printing  works,  and  bleaching-fields 
for  cotton  and  linen,  on  the  banks  of  the  Leven,  the  water 
of  which,  from  its  purity,  is  well  adapted  to  the  purpose. 
Facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  good  roads, 
which  have  been  greatly  extended  and  improved  within 
the  last  few  years. 

DUMBUCK,  or  Milton,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Old  Kilpatrick,  county  of  Dumbarton,  2  miles  (E.) 
from  Dumbarton;  containing  126  inhabitants.  It  is 
north  of  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  and  on  the  road  between 
Dumbarton  and  Glasgow.  The  population  is  chiefly 
employed  in  manufactures. 


D  UM  F 


DUMP 


DUMFRIES,  a  royal 
burgh,  county  town,  port, 
\S/Q\ffc)  and  the  seat  of  a  presbytery 
J"8C\lf^  anc'  syn°d>  'n  tne  county  of 
Sasl&s!  Dumfries;  comprising  the 
jS^pi  parishes  of  St.  Michael  and 
"  New-Church,  with  the  vil- 
lages of  Georgetown,  Loch- 
arbriggs,  Lochthorn,  and 
part  of  Kelton ;  and  con- 
taining 11,409  inhabitants, 
of  whom  10,069  are  in  the 
burgh;  7l|  miles  (S.  by  W.) 
from  Edinburgh.  This  place  is  supposed  to  have  de- 
rived its  name  from  its  situation  on  an  eminence  rising 
from  a  tract  of  sterile  soil  abounding  in  brushwood  or 
furze.  Little  is  recorded  of  its  early  history,  though, 
from  numerous  relics  of  antiquity,  it  would  appear  to 
have  been  of  some  importance  prior  to  the  Sth  century. 
The  ancient  castle  of  the  Comyns  family,  of  which  the 
site,  overlooking  the  river  Nith,  still  retains  the  name  of 
Castle-dykes,  has  long  since  disappeared ;  nor  is  the 
date  of  its  erection  known,  though  it  is  noticed  as  a 
place  of  formidable  strength  before  the  reign  of  Edward  I. 
A  monastery  was  founded  by  Dervorgilla,  daughter  of 
Allan,  Lord  of  Galloway,  and  mother  of  John  Baliol,  King 
of  Scotland,  about  the  beginning  of  the  13th  century, 
for  Franciscan  friars,  on  an  eminence  above  the  Nith, 
by  which  it  is  washed  on  the  north  and  west ;  and  a 
noble  bridge,  originally  of  thirteen  arches,  was  erected 
by  the  founder  over  the  river,  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  brethren.  In  1305,  Robert  Bruce,  attended  by 
Roger  de  Kirkpatrick  and  James  Lindsay,  held  a  con- 
ference in  the  chapel  of  this  monastery  with  John 
Comyn,  surnamed  the  Red,  and  in  a  dispute  with  that 
nobleman,  whom  he  charged  with  treacherously  reveal- 
ing to  Edward  I.  the  designs  he  had  formed  for  the 
emancipation  of  his  country  from  the  English  yoke, 
stabbed  him  with  his  dagger.  Upon  this  he  hastily 
rejoined  his  attendants  ;  but  Kirkpatrick,  resolving  to 
make  sure  of  Comyn's  death,  returned  into  the  church, 
despatched  the  wounded  chieftain,  and  also  killed  his 
brother  who  interposed  for  his  defence.  The  church, 
being  thus  polluted  with  blood,  was  soon  afterwards 
deserted,  and  the  friars  removed  their  establishment 
to  the  chape]  of  St.  Michael,  south- east  of  the  town. 
There  are  no  remains  of  the  monastery,  and  the  only 
memorial  of  it  preserved  is  the  name  of  the  narrow 
street  leading  to  it  from  the  bridge,  and  which  is  still 
called  the  Friars"  Vennel. 

In  130",  Edward  II.  of  England,  after  his  coronation, 
advanced  to  Dumfries  to  receive  the  homage  of  several 
of  the  Scottish  nobility  ;  and  the  town  was  afterwards 
repeatedly  attacked  by  the  English,  by  whom  it  was 
burnt  in  144S,  and  also  in  1536.  In  retaliation  of  the 
latter  injury,  Lord  Maxwell  of  Terregles,  a  powerful 
nobleman,  with  a  body  of  his  retainers,  crossed  the 
border,  and,  penetrating  into  England,  assaulted  the 
town  of  Penrith,  which  he  reduced  to  ashes.  The 
Maxwells,  who  had  an  ancient  castle  near  the  site  of 
the  monastery,  supposed  to  have  been  built,  in  the 
12th  century,  erected  a  more  spacious  and  magnificent 
structure,  partly  out  of  the  ruins,  and  almost  on  the 
site  of  the  deserted  friary  ;  and  this  castle,  in  1563,  was 
visited  by  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  who,  attended  by  her 
Vol.  I.— 305 


privy  council,  came  to  Dumfries  to  ratify  a  treaty  of 
peace  with  England.  In  1565,  the  disaffected  Lords 
Argyll,  Murray,  Rothes,  and  others  having  assembled  a 
hostile  force  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  queen  advanced 
to  the  town  with  an  army  of  18,000  men  ;  the  discon- 
tented nobles,  on  her  approach,  fled  into  England,  and 
Lord  Maxwell,  having  incurred  her  displeasure,  con- 
ciliated her  favour  by  surrendering  his  castle,  of  which, 
however,  he  was  permitted  to  retain  the  government. 
In  1570,  this  castle  was  taken  and  plundered  by  the 
English  forces  under  the  command  of  the  Earl  of  Essex 
and  Lord  Scrope,  who  also  laid  waste  the  town. 

In  1617,  James  VI.,  after  his  accession  to  the  crown 
of  England,  visited  his  ancient  dominions,  and,  passing 
through  Dumfries,  remained  for  one  night  in  the  town. 
He  was  received  with  every  demonstration  of  affec- 
tionate loyalty,  and  presented  to  the  corporation  a 
silver  gun,  to  be  periodically  contested  for  as  a  prize 
for  the  successful  competitor,  among  the  several  crafts, 
in  shooting  at  a  target.  The  house  in  which  the  king 
lodged  was  built  by  a  poor  labourer  who,  having  found 
a  large  treasure  while  digging  peat  in  the  Lochar  moss, 
took  a  journey  to  London,  where,  in  a  personal  inter- 
view with  the  monarch,  he  was  allowed  to  retain  pos- 
session of  it,  and  advised  to  build  a  house,  in  which  the 
king  promised  to  lodge  when  he  visited  his  Scottish 
dominions.  The  inhabitants  displayed  a  marked  oppo- 
sition to  the  union  of  the  two  kingdoms  in  1706,  and  to 
testify  their  aversion  to  that  measure,  burnt  a  paper 
containing  the  articles  of  union  and  the  names  of  the 
commissioners  at  the  market-cross.  At  the  time  of 
the  rebellion  in  1715,  however,  they  zealously  asserted 
their  allegiance  to  the  reigning  monarch ;  and  on  being 
apprised  of  the  design  of  Lord  Kenmuir  to  visit  the 
town  with  a  large  body  of  insurgents,  they  so  com- 
pletely fortified  it  where  it  was  most  exposed  to  any 
attack,  that  the  party  were  induced  to  abandon  their  in- 
tention. In  1745  the  Pretender,  on  his  return  from 
England,  advanced  to  Dumfries  with  a  body  too  power- 
ful to  be  resisted,  and  took  up  his  quarters  in  the 
town.  In  resentment  of  the  opposition  which  his  troops 
had  experienced  on  their  march  into  England,  he  levied 
a  fine  of  £'2000  in  money,  and  a  supply  of  1000  pairs  of 
shoes ;  but,  being  intimidated  by  a  report  that  the  Duke 
of  Cumberland  was  rapidly  marching  to  attack  him,  he 
hastily  withdrew,  taking  £1000  of  the  fine,  and  the 
provost  and  one  of  the  bailies  as  hostages  for  payment 
of  the  remainder. 

The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  river  Nith,  and  is  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth  ;  the  streets  are  regular 
and  well  formed,  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles. 
The  houses  are  uniformly  built  of  red  freestone,  gene- 
rally painted  of  a  colour  resembling  Portland  stone ; 
those  that  are  of  ancient  date  are  substantial  and  of 
handsome  appearance,  and  those  of  more  modern  erec- 
tion are  conspicuous  for  elegance.  There  are  also  some 
handsome  ranges  of  building,  of  which  Queensberry- 
square  is  embellished  in  the  centre  with  a  stately  Doric 
column,  erected  in  1780  to  the  memory  of  the  Duke  of 
Queensberry.  An  elegant  and  commodious  bridge  was 
built  over  the  Nith  in  1794,  a  little  above  the  ancient 
bridge  of  thirteen  arches,  reduced  by  frequent  altera- 
tions to  seven  arches,  and  now  solely  appropriated  to  foot 
passengers.     The  streets  are  all  well  paved,  and  lighted 

SR 


DUMF 


DUMF 


with  gas  from  works  established  in  1828  ;  gas  has  also 
been  introduced  into  the  shops  and  most  of  the  public 
buildings,  and  the  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  with 
excellent  water  from  springs  in  the  neighbourhood.  A 
public  subscription  library  was  founded  in  1*92,  and  has 
a  valuable  collection  on  general  literature ;  there  are 
also  several  circulating  libraries,  a  public  newsroom, 
and  four  reading-rooms,  all  supplied  with  daily  journals 
and  periodical  publications,  besides  a  mechanics'  insti- 
tution which  has  a  good  collection  of  books.  Card  and 
dancing  assemblies  are  held  in  a  handsome  suite  of 
rooms  recently  erected  for  the  purpose  in  George-street ; 
and  a  theatre,  a  commodious  and  well-arranged  building, 
in  which  Kean  made  his  first  appearance,  is  open  for 
two  or  three  months  during  the  season.  Races  take 
place  annually  on  the  Tinwald  Downs,  and  are  well 
attended ;  a  regatta  is  celebrated  by  a  club  established 
here ;  and  the  members  of  the  Caledonian  hunt  hold 
their  meetings  by  rotation  in  the  town.  The  Dumfries 
and  Galloway  Horticultural  Society,  instituted  in  1812 
for  the  promotion  of  improvements  in  horticulture,  also 
meet  here  periodically. 

The  cotton  manufacture,  consisting  chiefly  of  checked 
cottons,  formerly  carried  on  to  a  very  considerable 
extent,  has  been  for  some  time  nearly  discontinued,  and 
the  few  spinners  of  the  town  who  remain  are  mostly 
employed  by  the  Carlisle  and  Glasgow  manufacturers. 
The  principal  manufactures  now  are  those  of  hats 
and  stockings ;  of  the  former  there  are  three  establish- 
ments, affording  employment  to  about  200  persons  in 
the  aggregate,  and  in  the  latter  279  looms  are  con- 
stantly in  operation.  The  tanning  of  leather  is  also 
pursued,  and  the  hides  are  sent  to  Glasgow,  London, 
and  other  parts  of  the  United  Kingdom,  in  large  quan- 
tities. The  manufacture  of  shoes  is  very  extensive, 
giving  occupation  to  about  300  persons  ;  and  a  consi- 
derable number  are  engaged  in  the  making  of  clogs, 
or  shoes  with  wooden  soles,  a  trade  not  now,  as  for- 
merly, confined  to  the  supply  of  the  south  of  Scotland, 
and  which  has  been  introduced  with  great  profit.  There 
are  also  several  public  breweries,  and  a  large  basket- 
making  establishment.  A  very  lucrative  trade  is  car- 
ried on  in  the  sale  of  pork,  of  which,  during  the  season, 
commencing  about  the  close  of  December,  and  ending 
about  the  beginning  of  April,  many  thousand  carcases 
are  sent  to  the  south  to  be  cured  ;  not  less  than  700 
are  sold  weekly  for  this  purpose,  upon  an  average,  and 
frequently  sales  to  the  amount  of  £4000  or  £5000  have 
been  effected  in  one  day.  The  foreign  trade  of  the  port 
consists  chiefly  in  the  importation  of  timber  from  Ame- 
rica, in  which  several  large  vessels  are  engaged ;  the 
traffic  in  tobacco,  formerly  extensive,  has  been  for 
many  years  discontinued.  The  coasting  trade  is  mainly 
with  Liverpool,  Whitehaven,  Maryport,  and  other  parts 
of  the  English  and  Irish  shores.  The  imports  are,  tim- 
ber to  the  amount  of  nearly  £10,000  per  annum,  coal, 
slate,  iron,  tallow,  hemp,  and  wine;  and  the  exports, 
cattle,  sheep,  wool,  freestone,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  and 
other  agricultural  produce.  The  number  of  vessels 
registered  in  1843  was  220,  of  the  aggregate  burthen 
of  12,380  tons  ;  the  jurisdiction  of  the  port,  which 
includes  the  Creek  of  Annan,  extends  from  Sark  foot 
at  the  head  of  the  Solway  Frith,  to  Glenluce  on  the 
Galloway  coast,  and  the  amount  of  duties  paid  at  the 
custom-house  in  the  year  1843  was  £8764. 
306 


Since  the  channel  of  the  river  has  been  made  deeper, 
vessels  of  considerable  burthen  can  approach  the  town, 
by  which  means  the  inhabitants  obtain  with  great  faci- 
lity a  supply  of  coal  from  Whitehaven  ;  there  are  also  a 
commodious  quay  near  Castle-dykes,  another  for  ves- 
sels of  greater  burthen  about  a  mile  below  it,  and  one 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  for  vessels  engaged  in  the 
foreign  trade.  The  various  improvements  connected 
with  the  harbour  were  completed  at  a  cost  of  £18,530. 
A  steam-vessel  plies  weekly  between  Dumfries  and 
Whitehaven,  during  the  summer  months,  and  great 
quantities  of  live  stock,  especially  sheep,  are  thus  sent 
to  the  English  markets.  The  post-office  has  a  good 
delivery ;  and  branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  the 
National  and  Commercial  banks,  and  of  the  bank  of  the 
British  Linen  Company,  have  been  established  in  the 
town.  The  market,  which  is  abundantly  supplied  and 
numerously  attended,  is  on  Wednesday,  when  a  great 
amount  of  business  is  transacted  by  cattle-dealers,  on 
an  open  area  near  the  river,  called  the  Sands ;  and 
the  fairs,  chiefly  for  cattle,  are  held  at  Whitsuntide  and 
Martinmas,  and  for  horses  in  February  and  October, 
at  all  of  which  extensive  sales  are  made.  At  the  fair 
in  February,  large  numbers  of  hare-skins  are  sold,  ave- 
raging generally  about  30,000.  A  cattle-market  is  also 
held  in  September,  about  the  time  of  the  Broughill- 
fair,  in  Cumberland,  when,  upon  an  average,  about  4500 
head  are  exposed  for  sale,  mostly  three-year-old  Gal- 
loways, and  others  of  the  Highland  breed ;  and  on  some 
occasions  business  to  the  amount  of  £30,000  has  been 
transacted.  The  market  for  meal  is  still  held  in  a  build- 
ing appropriated  to  that  purpose  ;  but  the  shambles  for 
butchers'  meat  have  been  long  deserted,  the  butchers 
finding  it  more  profitable  to  open  shops  in  different 
parts  of  the  town. 

The  town  was  made  a  royal  burgh  by  William  the 
Lion,  prior  to  the  year  1214.  In  1396,  Robert  III.  con- 
ferred upon  the  inhabitants  various  valuable  immu- 
nities, which  were  confirmed  by  James  I.,  who  by  char- 
ter in  1415  granted  additional  privileges;  and  in  1469, 
James  III.  gave  to  the  corporation  all  the  lands  and 
revenues  which  belonged  to  the  monastery  of  the  Grey 
friars.  The  corporation  consists  of  a  provost,  three 
bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  treasurer,  twelve  merchant  and 
seven  trade  councillors,  these  seven  being  the  convener 
and  six  other  deacons  of  the  incorporated  trades  ;  and 
all  the  officers  are  elected  under  the  provisions  of  the 
late  Municipal  Reform  act.  The  incorporated  trades  are 
the  hammermen,  masons,  weavers,  tailors,  shoemakers, 
skinners,  and  butchers ;  the  fee  for  admission  as  a 
member  is,  for  a  stranger  £10,  and  for  the  son  or  son- 
in-law  of  a  freeman  £1.  1.  The  jurisdiction  of  the 
burgh  extends  over  the  whole  of  the  royalty ;  and  the 
magistrates  hold  courts  for  the  determination  of  civil 
pleas  and  the  trial  of  petty  offences,  in  which  they  are 
assisted  by  the  town-clerk,  who  acts  as  assessor.  The 
police  is  undar  the  direction  of  a  body  of  commissioners 
chosen  by  the  £10  householders,  and  of  whom  the  pro- 
vost, the  bailies,  and  the  convener  are  members  ex 
officio ;  the  number  of  commissioners  is  twelve,  two  of 
whom  have  the  superintendence  of  each  of  the  six  wards 
into  which  the  burgh  is  divided.  As  the  county  town, 
the  courts  of  assize  and  quarter  sessions,  the  sheriff's 
courts,  and  those  of  the  commissary  are  regularly  held 
here,  and  the  public  business  of  the  county  transacted. 


D  U  M  F 


DUMF 


In  the  centre  of  the  High-street  stands  what  is  called 
the  Mid  Steeple,  a  handsome  building  erected  by  the 
celebrated  Inigo  Jones,  and  comprising  a  hall  and  other 
apartments  for  the  meetings  of  the  town-council ;  and 
opposite  to  it  is  the  Trades'-hall,  a  neat  structure  erected 
in  1S04.  The  County  hall,  or  court-house,  is  a  spacious 
and  elegant  edifice,  comprising  an  ample  hall  for  the 
county  meetings,  rooms  for  holding  the  several  courts, 
with  apartments  for  the  judges,  and  accommodation  for 
witnesses  and  others  connected  with  the  business  of 
the  sessions.  A  building  originally  intended  for  a  bride- 
well has  been  appropriated  as  a  depot  for  the  county 
militia,  and  that  which  was  at  first  designed  for  the 
court-house  has  been  arranged  as  a  bridewell;  it  is, 
however,  small  and  ill  adapted  for  classification.  Be- 
hind the  bridewell  is  the  County  gaol,  erected  in  1807, 
and  inclosed  with  a  high  wall,  in  the  area  between 
which  and  the  building  prisoners  for  debt  have  the 
privilege  of  exercise  :  a  subterranean  passage  leads  from 
the  prison  to  the  court-room,  and  by  this  prisoners  are 
led  to  trial.  The  biu-gh  is  associated  with  those  of 
Annan,  Kirkcudbright,  Lochmaben,  and  Sanquhar,  in 
returning  a  representative  to  the  house  of  commons  ; 
the  parliamentary  boundary  includes  the  whole  of  the 
royalty,  with  the  exception  of  some  lands  to  the  south 
and  east  of  the  town,  and  also  includes  the  suburb  of 
Maxwelltown,  a  burgh  of  barony  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river.  The  right  of  election  under  the  Reform  act  is 
vested  in  the  £10  householders  ;  the  sheriff  is  the  return- 
ing officer. 

The  parish  is  nearly  seven  miles  in  length,  and  from 
two  to  three  in  breadth,  comprising  about  92S0  acres, 
of  which  7930  are  arable,  320  pasture,  and  the  remain- 
der, of  which  the  far  greater  portion  will  probably  be 
brought  under  profitable  cultivation,  moss  and  waste 
land.  The  surface,  though  generally  level,  is  diversified 
by  the  elevated  site  of  the  town,  and  by  a  ridge  of  hills 
near  the  southern  extremity,  of  no  great  height,  sloping 
gradually  towards  the  river  on  the  south-west,  and 
rising  abruptly  on  the  north-east.  On  this  latter  side, 
about  a  mile  below  the  town,  is  a  singular  cavity  in  the 
face  of  the  rock,  named  the  Maiden  Bower ;  and 
towards  the  south-east  of  the  parish  is  an  eminence 
called  Trohaughton,  supposed  to  have  been  the  site  of 
a  Roman  camp.  The  river  Lochar,  which  rises  in  the 
adjoining  parish  of  Tinwald,  and  falls  into  the  Sol- 
way  Frith,  bounds  Dumfries  on  the  east,  forming  in 
the  south  an  extensive  tract  of  marsh  called  Lochar 
Moss,  partly  in  this  parish,  and  partly  in  Torthorwald 
and  Mousewald.  There  are  also  several  lakes,  of  which 
the  principal  are  Black  loch  and  Sand  loch,  both 
abounding  with  trout  and  perch.  The  soil  in  the 
north  and  north-east  is  generally  a  light  reddish  sandy 
loam,  resting  on  a  substratum  of  freestone ;  and  in 
other  parts,  and  especially  near  the  river,  a  retentive 
clay,  with  a  substratum  of  gravel.  The  crops  are,  oats, 
barley,  wheat,  turnips,  and  potatoes  ;  the  rotation  sys- 
tem of  husbandry  is  practised,  and  the  state  of  agricul- 
ture is  much  improved.  Considerable  attention  is  paid 
to  live  stock  :  with  the  exception  of  Ayrshire  cows  on 
the  dairy-farms,  the  cattle  are  usually  of  the  pure 
Galloway  breed.  The  farm-buildings,  though  inferior 
to  many  others,  are  still  commodious  ;  the  lands  are 
well  inclosed,  and  portions  of  the  Lochar  moss  were 
some  years  ago  brought  into  cultivation,  yielding  abun- 
307 


dant  crops  of  oats,  potatoes,  and  rye-grass.  Upon  this 
moss,  ploughing  by  steam  was  first  attempted  in  Scot- 
land, and  has  proved  quite  successful ;  but,  although 
many  thousands  of  pounds  have  been  spent  in  thus 
reclaiming  the  moss  by  the  plough,  it  is  the  opinion  of 
many  practically  acquainted  with  the  subject,  that  a 
considerable  quantity  of  sand,  clay,  or  some  other  solid 
earthy  substance  must  be  laid  upon  it  so  as  to  con- 
solidate it.  Some  idea  of  the  weight  and  bulk  of  the 
ploughing  machinery  may  be  formed  from  the  mention 
of  the  fact,  that  the  expense  of  carting  it  from  Glen- 
caple-Quay,  only  three  miles  distant,  was  as  much  as 
£15.  There  are  several  quarries  of  red  sandstone  in 
the  parish,  of  which  four  are  extensively  wrought ; 
and  also  some  salmon  and  trout  fisheries,  the  rents  of 
which  yield  about  £500  per  annum.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £24,743. 

For  ecclesiastical  purposes  the  parish  was  divided, 
in  1727,  by  authority  of  the  presbytery,  with  the  con- 
currence of  the  magistrates  of  the  burgh,  into  two  dis- 
tricts, and  an  additional  church  was  erected,  which  still 
retains  the  appellation  of  the  New  Church,  and  has  a 
minister  appointed  by  the  Crown  as  patron  of  both. 
The  minister  of  the  old  parish,  now  the  district  of  St. 
Michael,  has  a  stipend '  of  £332,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £25  per  annum.  The  church,  situ- 
ated at  the  south-east  end  of  the  town,  was  built  on 
the  site  of  the  ancient  structure  in  1/45  ;  it  is  a  neat 
edifice  with  a  lofty  graceful  spire,  and  contains  1250 
sittings.  The  churchyard,  which  is  spacious,  contains 
a  large  number  of  monuments,  including  many  of 
deeply  interesting  character.  The  remains  of  the  poet 
Burns  were  originally  interred  in  the  northern  angle  of 
the  burying-ground,  under  a  plain  slab  placed  by  his 
widow;  but  in  1815  his  ashes  were  removed  into  a 
handsome  mausoleum  erected  by  his  countrymen,  at  an 
expense  of  £1450,  and  above  the  entrance  of  which  is 
a  representation  of  the  Genius  of  Scotland  throwing  her 
mantle  over  the  poet  while  at  the  plough,  finely  sculp- 
tured in  marble  by  Turnerelli.  It  has  been  calculated 
that  the  vast  number  of  monuments  in  this  churchyard 
must  have  cost  more  than  £100,000.  The  minister  of 
the  New  Church  district  has  a  stipend  of  £281.  13.,  of 
which  £151.  13.,  including  an  allowance  of  £50  in  lieu 
of  manse  and  glebe,  are  paid  by  the  exchequer.  The 
church,  situated  at  the  north-west  end  of  the  town,  was 
erected  on  the  site,  and  partly  with  the  materials,  of 
the  ancient  castle,  at  the  expense  of  the  town-council, 
in  1727;  it  is  a  neat  structure  containing  11S5  sittings. 
The  subordinate  church  of  St.  Mary,  fronting  the  road 
to  England,  was  erected  in  1838,  at  a  cost  of  £3000, 
by  subscription;  it  is  an  elegant  structure  after  a  design 
by  Mr.  Henderson,  of  Edinburgh,  in  the  later  English 
style  of  architecture,  with  an  embattled  tower  sur- 
mounted by  a  lofty  spire  strengthened  with  flying  but- 
tresses. An  episcopal  chapel  was  erected  in  1S17,  at 
a  cost  of  £2200  ;  and  there  are  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church,  the  United  Secession, 
the  Relief  Church,  Reformed  Presbyterians,  Indepen- 
dents, and  Wesleyans,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel. 

The  Dumfries  Academy,  for  which  a  spacious  building 
was  erected  by  subscription  in  1800,  is  under  the  super- 
intendence of  a  rector  and  four  masters,  appointed  by 
the  corporation.  The  rector,  in  addition  to  the  fees, 
which  are  moderate,  has  the  interest  of  £660.  6.  3.,  and 

2  R  2 


DUMF 


D  U  M  F 


each  of  the  four  masters  the  interest  of  £204.  8.  10., 
arising  from  endowments  ;  and  there  are  also  a  French 
and  a  drawing  master,  who  are  paid  exclusively  by  the 
fees.  The  course  of  instruction  comprises  the  Greek, 
Latin,  French,  and  English  languages,  the  mathematics, 
geography,  arithmetic,  book-keeping,  writing,  and  draw- 
ing. Two  schools,  one  for  the  instruction  of  children 
of  both  sexes  in  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  and  the 
principles  of  religion,  and  the  other  for  teaching  girls  to 
sew,  and  to  read  the  Bible,  are  supported  by  the  High- 
land Education  Society  and  some  benevolent  societies 
established  in  the  parish ;  the  teachers  have  each  a 
house  rent-free,  and  the  former  a  salary  of  £60,  and  the 
latter  of  £20  per  annum.  There  are  also  two  schools 
for  adults,  supported  by  contributions,  and  an  infant 
school.  The  Crichton  Royal  Institution  or  asylum  origi- 
nated with  the  late  Dr.  Crichton,  of  Friars'  Carse,  who 
bequeathed  £100,000  to  his  widow  to  be  appropriated 
to  charitable  purposes  in  Scotland  in  any  mode  she 
might  think  proper.  This  establishment,  which  enjoys 
the  reputation  of  being  the  best  lunatic  asylum  in  Scot- 
land, is  situated  on  an  eminence  about  three-quarters  of 
a  mile  from  the  south-eastern  extremity  of  the  town  : 
the  building  was  erected  in  1S39,  after  a  design  by  Mr. 
Burn,  in  the  Grecian  style,  and  is  of  handsome  ap- 
pearance, and  surrounded  by  ample  grounds,  very 
tastefully  laid  out.  A  house  for  poor  orphans  and 
aged  persons  was  erected  in  1733,  with  funds  bequeathed 
for  that  purpose  by  William  Muirhead,  merchant,  of 
Carlisle,  and  his  cousin  James  Muirhead,  of  Castle-dykes. 
The  establishment,  which  is  further  supported  by  annual 
subscriptions  and  donations,  is  under  the  direction  of  a 
committee  chosen  from  the  Kirk  Session,  the  town-coun- 
cil, and  others,  who  meet  weekly.  The  building  eon- 
tains  accommodation  for  twenty  children  and  thirty 
aged  persons,  under  the  care  of  a  master  and  mistress, 
who  reside  in  the  house.  The  children  are  taught  writ- 
ing, reading,  arithmetic,  and  the  principles  of  religion, 
and  when  of  proper  age  are  apprenticed  to  trades,  or 
placed  out  to  service ;  and  connected  with  the  establish- 
ment are  forty-two  widows,  who  receive  pensions  at 
their  own  dwellings.  The  expenses  of  the  establish- 
ment average  about  £500  per  annum. 

The  Infirmary,  with  which  was  once  connected  a  lunatic 
asylum,  was  founded  in  1776,  and  is  superintended  by 
a  committee  of  subscribers ;  the  medical  department  is 
under  the  inspection  of  two  visiting  physicians  and 
surgeons,  and  a  resident  house  surgeon ;  and  a  licen- 
tiate of  the  Established  Church  officiates  as  chaplain. 
The  average  number  of  patients  in  the  house  is  30,  and 
from  700  to  800  receive  advice  and  medicines  at  the 
institution  annually.  The  expenditure  is  about  £1300 
_per  annum,  defrayed  by  bequests,  donations,  and  sub- 
scriptions, and  liberal  contributions  from  the  counties 
of  Dumfries  and  Wigton,  and  the  stewartry  of  Kirk- 
cudbright, to  all  of  which  it  is  open.  The  Dispensary , 
situated  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  town,  is  sup- 
ported by  public  subscription,  and  administers  exten- 
sive relief  to  the  indigent  poor.  On  an  eminence  near 
the  entrance  into  the  town  from  the  English  road,  might 
lately  be  traced  the  foundations  of  St.  Christopher's 
chapel,  erected  by  the  Bruce  in  memory  of  his  father- 
in-law,  Sir  Christopher  Seton,  who  was  hanged  on  that 
spot  by  order  of  Edward  I.  On  the  left  bank  of  the 
river,  just  above  the  town,  is  Moat  Brae,  supposed  to 
308 


have  been,  during  the  Saxon  era,  a  place  for  administer- 
ing justice.  A  Roman  sandal  was  found  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  parish  many  years  since,  and  in  the  river  a 
gold  coin,  about  the  size  of  a  sixpenny  piece,  but  much 
thicker,  bearing  a  Roman  head,  with  the  inscription 
Augustus.  Among  some  scraps  of  old  iron,  also,  was 
lately  found  an  ancient  seal  about  two  inches  in  diame- 
ter, bearing  a  lion  rampant  in  a  shield  bordered  with 
fleurs  de  lis,  with  the  legend  Jacobus  Dei.  Gra.  Rex. 
Scotorum  in  characters  reversed  ;  it  is  supposed  to  have 
been  the  privy  seal  of  one  of  the  Scottish  kings. 

DUMFRTES-SHIRE,  a  county  in  the  south  of  Scot- 
land, bounded  on  the  north  by  the  counties  of  Lanark, 
Peebles,  and  Selkirk,  on  the  east  by  Roxburghshire  and 
part  of  the  English  county  of  Cumberland,  on  the  south 
by  the  Solway  Frith,  and  on  the  west  by  the  county  of 
Ayr  and  the  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright.  It  lies  be- 
tween 55°  2'  and  55°  31'  (N.  Lat.)  and  2°  39'  and  3°  53' 
(W.  Long.),  and  is  about  fifty  miles  in  length  and  thirty 
miles  in  breadth,  comprising  1016  square  miles,  or 
650,240  acres;  14,356  inhabited  houses,  and  733  un- 
inhabited ;  and  containing  a  population  of  72,830,  of 
whom  34,137  are  males  and  3S,693  females.  The  county 
was  originally  inhabited  by  the  Selgova,  and  after  the 
invasion  of  the  Romans  formed  part  of  the  province  of 
Valentia;  upon  the  departure  of  the  Romans  it  was 
occupied  by  the  Northumbrian  Saxons,  and  subsequently 
by  numerous  emigrants  from  Ireland,  who  had  settled 
first  on  the  peninsula  of  Cantyre.  In  the  reign  of 
David  I.  many  of  the  Norman  barons  obtained  posses- 
sions here,  among  whom  was  Robert  de  Brus,  who  pro- 
cured a  grant  of  the  lands  of  Annandale,  and  was  an- 
cestor of  Robert  Bruce,  King  of  Scotland.  Previously 
to  the  reign  of  James  VI.,  the  county  was  the  scene  of 
numerous  sanguinary  conflicts  between  the  hostile  clans, 
and,  from  its  situation  near  the  border,  was  subject  to 
repeated  predatory  incursions  of  the  English.  It  was 
anciently  included  in  the  diocese  of  Glasgow,  and  com- 
prised the  deaneries  of  Nithsdale  and  Annandale ;  at 
present  it  constitutes  the  greater  part  of  the  synod  of 
Dumfries,  and  contains  several  presbyteries,  and  forty- 
two  parishes.  It  includes  the  royal  burghs  of  Dum- 
fries, which  is  the  county  town,  Annan,  Lochmaben, 
and  Sanquhar ;  and  the  towns  of  Moffat,  Lockerbie, 
Langholm,  Ecclesfechan,  Thornhill,  and  Minniehive, 
which  are  all  burghs  of  barony.  Under  the  act  of  the 
2nd  of  William  IV.,  the  county  returns  one  member  to 
the  imperial  parliament. 

The  surface  near  the  sea-coast  is  level,  rising  to- 
wards the  middle  portion  into  ridges  of  hills  of  moderate 
elevation,  intersected  with  fertile  vales,  and  becoming 
mountainous  in  the  north.  The  whole  is  separated  into 
three  principal  districts,  each  deriving  its  name  from 
the  river  which  flows  through  it ;  of  these,  Eskdale 
forms  the  eastern,  Annandale  the  middle,  and  Nithsdale 
the  western  part  of  the  county.  The  chief  mountains  in 
Eskdale  are,  the  Langholm,  the  Wisp,  the  Tinnis,  and 
Etterick-Penn,  varying  from  1200  to  2220  feet  in  height; 
in  Annandale,  Errickstane-Brae,  Loch- Skene,  and  the 
Hartfell,  from  1118  to  2629  feet;  and  in  Nithsdale, 
Cairn-Kinnow,  Queensberry,  Black-Larg,  and  the  Low- 
thers,  which  have  elevations  ranging  from  2080  to  3150 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  From  each  of  the  three 
dales  diverge  smaller  valleys,  watered  by  their  several 
streams,   and   of   which    the   principal   are  Moffatdale, 


DUMP 


DUN 


Dryfesdale,  and  Eskdale.  The  river  Esk  has  its  source 
in  the  vale  to  which  it  gives  name,  and,  receiving  in  its 
course  the  White  Esk,  which  rises  on  the  borders  of 
Selkirk,  flows  into  the  Solway  Frith.  The  Annan  rises 
on  the  borders  of  Peeblesshire, and, after  being  augmented 
by  numerous  tributary  streams,  also  falls  into  the  Frith  ; 
and  the  Nith,  rising  in  Ayrshire,  and  pursuing  a  south- 
east course,  joins  the  Solway  Frith  about  three  miles 
below  the  town  of  Dumfries.  The  rivers  and  their  tri- 
butaries abound  with  excellent  trout.  There  are  also 
numerous  lakes,  of  which  not  less  than  nine  are  in  the 
parish  of  Lochmaben  ;  and  in  the  mountain  of  Loch- 
Skene  is  one  that  forms  the  picturesque  cascade  called 
the  Grey-mare's-tail.  There  is  not  much  timber  of 
ancient  growth  :  the  parish  of  Tinwald  was  formerly 
one  extensive  forest,  but  it  has  long  since  disappeared  ; 
and  the  woods  and  plantations  are  now  chiefly  those 
around  the  houses  of  the  landowners.  The  soil  varies 
from  a  rich  loam  to  a  light  sand  ;  the  system  of  agricul- 
ture is  in  an  improved  state,  and  considerable  attention 
is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  live  stock.  The  cattle  are 
chiefly  of  the  Galloway  breed,  and  the  cows  on  the 
dairy-farms  of  the  Ayrshire  ;  the  sheep  are  generally  of 
the  Cheviot  and  black-faced  breeds  ;  vast  numbers  of 
pigs  are  kept,  and  great  quantities  of  bacon  and  hams  are 
sent  to  the  Liverpool,  Newcastle,  and  London  markets. 
The  minerals  are  mostly  lead,  antimony,  iron,  and 
gypsum.  The  lead  is  found  in  great  abundance,  and 
mines  are  in  operation  at  Leadhills  and  Wanlockhead, 
from  which  48,000  tons  have  been  annually  extracted  ; 
in  the  mines  at  Wanlock  the  ore  contains  a  considerable 
proportion  of  silver,  varying  from  six  to  twelve  ounces 
in  the  ton.  In  these  mountains,  gold  has  been  found 
in  veins  of  quartz  and  in  the  sand  of  the  streams  at  their 
base,  and  in  the  reign  of  James  V.  300  men  were  em- 
ployed for  several  summers  in  collecting  gold,  which 
they  obtained  to  the  value  of  £100,000.  The  search  was 
renewed  under  the  superintendence  of  Sir  Bevis  Bulmer, 
master  of  the  mint  to  Queen  Elizabeth,  with  the  con- 
currence of  James  VI.;  and  particles  of  gold  adhering  to 
pieces  of  quartz  have  been  since  found,  the  largest  of 
which,  weighing  nearly  five  ounces,  is  in  the  British 
Museum.  The  antimony  was  discovered  in  1760,  but 
was  not  wrought  till  1793,  when  a  mine  was  opened 
at  Glendinning,  from  which  100  tons  of  the  regulus 
were  taken  annually,  valued  at  £84  per  ton.  The 
ironstone  occurs  chiefly  in  masses,  and  the  gypsum 
in  thin  veins  ;  coal  is  found  in  abundance,  but  of  a  very 
inferior  kind,  and  is  wrought  only  at  Sanquhar  and 
Canonbie.  Sandstone  of  various  colours  and  of  good 
quality  for  building  is  extensively  quarried,  as  is  lime- 
stone, of  which  the  principal  quarries  are  in  Nithsdale 
and  Annandale  ;  there  are  also  veins  of  slate  and  marble. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  county  is  £c29l,S70. 
The  seats  are,  Drumlanrig  Castle,  Kinmount,  Comlougan 
Castle,  Raehills,  Springkell,  Jardine  Hall,  Maxwelltown, 
Anisfield,  Closeburn  Hall,  Craigdarroch,  Wester  Hall, 
Drumcrieff,  Hoddarn  Castle,  Dalswinton,  Murraythwaite, 
Blackwood  House,  Langholm  Lodge,  Terregles,  Moss- 
know,  and  various  others.  The  manufactures  are  neither 
numerous  nor  extensive;  the  principal  are,  the  weaving 
of  linen  for  home  use,  the  spinning  and  weaving  of 
cotton,  the  woollen  manufacture,  and  the  weaving  of 
carpets,  which  last  employs  about  100  persons.  Salt 
is  made  in  the  parishes  of  Cummertrees  and  Ruthwell, 
309 


and  is  exempt  from  duty.  Facilities  of  communication 
are  afforded  by  good  roads,  and  by  bridges  over  the 
several  rivers,  and  a  railroad  in  connexion  with  lime- 
works  has  been  laid  down  at  Closeburn  ;  steamers,  also, 
navigate  the  Solway  Frith,  affording  an  easy  mode  of 
conveying  agricultural  produce  to  England.  There  are 
numerous  remains  of  antiquity,  consisting  of  Druidical 
circles,  British  forts,  Roman  roads,  ancient  castles, 
cairns,  mounds,  and  various  other  relics.  The  county 
contains  some  mineral  springs,  of  which  the  chief  are 
chalybeate,  and  near  Closeburn  House  is  a  sulphureous 
spring,  issuing  from  the  marshy  lands  ;  at  Hartfell  and 
Moffat  are  springs  of  both  kinds,  of  which  the  waters 
are  extensively  used.  The  county  gives  the  title  of  Earl 
to  the  Marquess  of  Bute. 

DUN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar,  4  miles 
(N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Montrose;  containing  581  inhabit- 
ants. This  place  by  some  antiquaries  is  supposed  to 
have  derived  its  name  from  the  family  of  Dun,  who 
were  its  ancient  proprietors,  and  by  others,  with  appa- 
rently greater  probability,  from  its  elevation  above  the 
level  of  the  river  South  Esk,  which  forms  its  boundary 
on  the  south.  The  parish  is  about  four  miles  in  length, 
and  nearly  of  equal  breadth,  and  comprises  3480  acres, 
of  which  '2600  are  arable,  300  meadow  and  pasture,  550 
woodland  and  plantations,  and  about  100  uncultivated 
moor.  A  small  part  of  the  lands,  called  Fort  Hill,  is 
divided  from  the  rest  by  the  estuary  or  basin  of  Mon- 
trose. The  surface  is  very  irregular;  near  the  river  and 
the  basin  it  is  level,  but  towards  the  north  rises  gradually 
to  a  considerable  elevation.  Within  the  limits  of  the 
parish  is  a  lake  called  Dun's  Dish,  covering  about  forty 
acres,  and  which  is  supplied  from  numerous  springs  in 
the  adjacent  grounds,  and  forms  a  reservoir  for  the 
use  of  various  mills.  The  scenery  is  enriched  by  luxu- 
riant woods  and  thriving  plantations  around  the  de- 
mesnes of  Dun  House  and  Langley  Park.  The  soil  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  basin  of  Montrose,  from  the  encroach- 
ment of  which  the  lands  are  defended  by  an  embankment, 
is  a  loamy  clay  of  great  fertility  ;  in  the  rising  grounds 
a  deep  rich  loam,  and  in  other  places  light  and  sandy. 
The  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  peas,  beans,  potatoes, 
and  turnips  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  improved,  and 
the  five  and  six  shift  courses  of  husbandry  are  generally 
practised,  the  former  in  the  upper,  and  the  latter  in  the 
lower  districts.  The  lands  are  well  drained  and  inclosed; 
the  farm-buildings  are  mostly  substantial  and  commo- 
dious. The  cattle  reared  in  the  parish  are  mainly  of  the 
black  Angus  breed,  resembling  the  Galloway,  and  which 
thrive  well,  and  grow  to  a  great  weight.  A  fishery  in 
the  South  Esk,  in  which  salmon  and  trout  are  plentiful, 
produces  about  £100  annually;  and  there  is  also  a  fishery 
in  the  sands  of  the  basin  of  Montrose,  chiefly  for  muscles, 
and  of  nearly  equal  value.  Facility  of  communication  is 
afforded  by  good  roads,  of  which  that  from  Brechin  to 
Montrose  passes  through  the  parish.  Dun  House, 
a  substantial  mansion,  built  in  1730,  and  now  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Marquess  of  Ailsa,  in  right  of  the  mar- 
chioness, who  is  daughter  of  the  late  John  Erskine,  Esq., 
is  finely  situated  on  rising  ground,  surrounded  with  old 
wood,  and,  having  a  southern  aspect,  presents  a  beauti- 
ful object  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  South  Esk. 
East,  of  Dun  House  is  Langley  Park,  the  handsome  seat 
of  the  Cruicksbank  family.  The  rateable  aunual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £6818.     Dun  is  in  the  presbytery  of 


D  U  N  B 


D  UNB 


Brechin  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns,  and  in  the 
patronage  of  the  Marchioness ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£159,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum. 
The  chapel  formerly  attached  to  the  old  mansion-house 
of  the  family  of  Dun  having  fallen  into  a  dilapidated 
state,  a  church  was  erected  in  lieu  in  1834.  The  pa- 
rochial school  is  well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34,  with  £13  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  The  poor 
have  the  interest  of  money  producing  £11  per  annum. 

DUNBAR,  a  burgh,  mar- 
ket-town, and  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Haddington  ; 
containing,  with  the  villages 
of  East  and  West  Barns, 
44/1  inhabitants,  of  whom 
3013  are'  in  the  burgh,  1 1 
miles  (E.  by  N.)  from  Had- 
dington, and  28  (E.  by  N.) 
from  Edinburgh.  This  place 
is  of  remote  antiquity,  and 
appears  to  have  derived  its 
Burg li  Heal.  name  from  the  situation  of 

its  castle  on  a  high  and  rugged  rock,  forming  a  conspi- 
cuous landmark.  The  castle  was  given  by  Kenneth  I., 
King  of  Scotland,  to  an  eminent  warrior  named  Bar,  to 
which  circumstance  some  writers  erroneously  refer  the 
origin  of  its  name  ;  and  in  1072,  the  castle  and  lands 
were  conferred  by  Malcolm  upon  Cospatrick,  Earl  of 
Northumberland,  and  afterwards  Earl  of  Dunbar,  who 
had  taken  refuge  at  his  court  from  the  tyranny  of 
William  the  Conqueror,  and  whose  descendants  for 
many  generations  made  this  their  chief  baronial  resi- 
dence. In  1296,  the  eighth  earl  of  Dunbar  and  March 
having  formed  an  alliance  with  England,  Edward  I. 
sent  Earl  Warren  to  besiege  the  castle,  which  had  been 
surrendered  by  the  Countess  of  Dunbar  to  the  Scots, 
whose  army,  assembled  at  this  place,  was  totally  routed 
by  the  English  at  the  battle  of  Dunbar,  with  great 
slaughter.  After  the  defeat  of  his  forces  at  Bannock- 
burn  in  1314,  Edward  II.,  previously  to  his  embarka- 
tion for  Berwick,  took  shelter  in  the  castle  of  Dunbar, 
which,  from  its  great  strength  and  the  importance  of  its 
situation,  was  regarded  as  the  key  of  Scotland,  and  con- 
sequently exposed  to  continual  assaults  during  the  wars 
with  England.  The  ninth  earl  of  Dunbar,  to  prevent 
its  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  English,  levelled  the 
castle  to  the  ground,  and  was  compelled  by  Edward  HI. 
to  rebuild  it  at  his  own  expense;  in  1337  it  was  be- 
sieged by  the  Earl  of  Salisbury,  and  most  resolutely 
defended  by  Agnes,  Countess  of  Dunbar,  who  compelled 
the  English  forces  to  raise  the  siege.  In  1435,  the 
castle  and  the  seigniories  of  Dunbar  and  March  became 
forfeited  to  the  crown,  on  the  attainder  of  the  tenth 
earl,  and  were  bestowed  by  James  I.  on  the  Duke  of 
Albany ;  and  in  1446,  the  queen  dowager  of  that 
monarch  died  in  the  castle,  and  was  interred  at  Perth. 
In  1475  the  Duke  of  Albany,  on  his  escape  from  Edin- 
burgh, landed  at  this  place,  and  afterwards  embarked 
for  France  ;  he  soon  returned,  however,  and  regained 
possession  of  his  castle ;  but  in  1483  was  again  com- 
pelled to  abandon  it  to  the  English,  by  whom  it  was  a 
few  years  subsequently  given  up  to  James  III.  In 
1488,  an  act  of  the  Scottish  parliament  was  passed  for 
the  demolition  of  this  ancient  fortress,  but  it  was  not 
carried  into  execution  for  nearly  a  century. 
310 


Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  took  refuge  in  the  castle  after 
the  murder  of  David  Rizzio,  in  1565,  and  subsequently 
appointed  the  Earl  of  Bothwell  its  governor.  She  also 
passed  six  days  here,  together  with  her  court,  in  a  tour 
along  the  coast  in  the  following  year  ;  and  upon  the 
murder  of  Darnley  in  1567,  Bothwell,  attended  by  1000 
horsemen,  arrested  the  queen  on  her  progress  to  Stir- 
ling, and  carried  her  and  her  retinue  by  force  to  Dunbar, 
where  he  detained  her  prisoner  for  twelve  days.  Soon 
after  her  marriage  with  Bothwell,  she  remained  here  for 
some  time,  while  levying  forces  from  Lothian  and  the 
Merse  against  the  people  who  had  taken  arms  to  oppose 
the  earl ;  and  marching  with  these  to  Carberry  Hill,  she 
there  joined  the  hostile  party,  and,  abandoning  Both- 
well,  the  castle  was  given  up  by  his  dependents  to  the 
Earl  of  Murray,  who  had  been  appointed  regent  of 
Scotland,  and  was  soon  demolished.  In  1650,  Dunbar 
was  the  scene  of  a  battle  in  which  Leslie  was  defeated 
with  great  slaughter,  at  Downhill ;  and  in  1745,  Sir 
John  Cope  landed  his  forces  at  this  place,  whence,  being 
joined  by  two  regiments  of  dragoons,  he  marched  to- 
wards Edinburgh,  and  was  totally  routed  at  the  battle 
of  Prestonpans.  In  1779,  the  inhabitants  were  kept  in  a 
state  of  alarm  by  the  appearance  of  the  notorious  Paul 
Jones  with  a  fleet  of  five  ships,  which  lay  off  the  port 
for  several  days ;  and  in  1781,  Captain  Fall,  an  American 
pirate,  attempted  to  carry  off  a  vessel  which  was  in  the 
mouth  of  the  harbour,  but  he  was  beaten  off  after  the 
exchange  of  a  few  shots  by  the  inhabitants,  and  aban- 
doned his  enterprise.  To  defend  the  town  from  similar 
attacks,  a  battery  of  sixteen  guns  was  erected  in  the 
same  year  ;  and  during  the  apprehension  of  an  invasion 
by  the  French,  who  were  expected  to  make  a  descent  at 
Belhaven  bay,  an  encampment  was  formed  on  the  com- 
mon of  West  Barns,  under  the  command  of  General 
Don.  Soon  after,  barracks  were  erected  to  the  west  of 
the  castle  for  1200  infantry,  and  at  Belhaven  for  300 
cavalry  ;  and  a  volunteer  corps  and  a  troop  of  yeomanry 
were  raised  in  the  neighbourhood. 

The  town,  which  owes  its  origin  to  the  castle,  round 
which  it  arose  at  a  very  early  period,  is  advantageously 
situated  on  the  southern  shore  of  the  Frith  of  Forth  ; 
the  houses  are  neatly  built,  but  the  place  is  not  distin- 
guished by  any  architectural  features  of  importance.  A 
library  is  supported  by  subscription,  in  which  is  an 
extensive  collection,  and  a  reading-room  is  well  provided 
with  periodicals  ;  there  is  also  a  mechanics'  institution, 
to  which  there  is  attached  a  good  library.  Assembly- 
rooms  have  been  built  by  subscription,  but  they  are 
not  eligibly  situated.  The  chief  trade  of  the  port  is  in 
herrings,  which  are  taken  off  the  coast,  and  generally 
not  less  than  300  boats  are  employed  ;  this  trade  hav- 
ing of  late  considerably  increased.  White-fish  of  all 
kinds,  and  lobsters  in  abundance  are  caught;  great 
quantities  of  cod  are  cured  and  forwarded  to  the  London 
market,  and  haddocks  are  smoked  principally  for  Glas- 
gow and  Edinburgh  ;  the  lobsters  are  preserved  in  pits 
and  sent  chiefly  to  London.  A  very  considerable  trade 
is  carried  on  in  grain,  which  is  raised  in  the  parish 
and  adjacent  district  to  a  great  extent,  and  of  very  su- 
perior quality ;  and  there  is  a  good  foreign  trade.  Flax- 
mills  were  established  at  West  Barns  in  1792,  and  a 
cotton-factory  at  Belhaven  in  1815,  but  neither  have 
been  attended  with  success  ;  a  distillery,  also,  was  for- 
merly worked  extensively,  but  has  been  for  some  years 


D  U  N  B 


D  U  N  B 


discontinued.  There  are  two  foundries  for  the  manu- 
facture of  machinery  of  all  kinds,  one  of  which  is  cele- 
brated for  its  steam-engines.  The  number  of  vessels 
engaged  in  the  foreign  trade  that  entered  inwards  in  a 
recent  year  was  twenty-three,  of  the  aggregate  burthen 
of  2310  tons,  and  having  134  men;  and  the  amount  of 
duties  paid  at  the  custom-house  was  £2942.  15.  The 
coasting  trade  is  also  considerable  ;  the  number  of  ves- 
sels that  entered  inwards  in  the  same  year  was  244, 
of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  11,919  tons,  with  762  men  ; 
and  of  vessels  which  cleared  outwards,  140,  of  70S1 
tons,  and  478  men.  The  quantity  of  foreign  grain  im- 
ported into  Dunbar  in  the  year  was  203§  quarters  of 
wheat,  and  3346  quarters  of  barley  ;  of  wheat  imported 
coastwise  342  quarters,  and  of  barley  2007  quarters. 
The  wheat  exported  coastwise  was  3608  quarters,  of 
barley  3936  quarters,  of  oats  6067  quarters,  of  peas  and 
beans  1981  quarters,  and  of  malt  359  bushels,  and 
wheaten  flour  231  sacks.  The  quantity  of  coal  imported 
at  Dunbar  and  its  several  creeks  during  the  same  year 
was  9490  tons  of  Scotch  coal,  of  English  763  tons,  and 
of  English  cinders  31  tons  ;  the  whisky  amounted  to 
91,000  gallons.  In  the  year  1844  the  number  of  regis- 
tered vessels  was  twenty-seven,  having  a  tonnage  of 
1656.  The  new  harbour,  just  completed,  is  accessible 
to  vessels  of  above  300  tons  ;  it  has  nine  feet  depth  of 
water  at  neap,  and  eighteen  feet  at  spring  tides.  The 
entrance  to  the  old  harbour  is  in  some  degree  obstructed 
by  rugged  rocks  :  the  eastern  pier,  which  had  been 
damaged  by  a  storm,  was  repaired  in  the  time  of  Crom- 
well by  a  parliamentary  grant  of  £300  ;  and  in  1785, 
the  '  convention  of  royal  burghs  voted  £600  for  its 
further  improvement.  The  post  has  a  good  delivery ; 
facility  of  intercourse  with  the  neighbouring  towns  is 
afforded  by  excellent  roads,  of  which  the  mail-coach 
road  to  London  passes  for  more  than  seven  miles 
through  the  parish,  and  packets  sail  regularly  for  Leith 
and  London.  The  market,  on  Tuesday,  is  amply  sup- 
plied with  grain  from  the  surrounding  country,  and 
from  the  highlands  of  the  county  of  Berwick  ;  and  fairs 
for  cattle  and  all  sorts  of  ware  are  held  at  Whitsuntide 
and  Martinmas  (O.  S.). 

The  town  was  created  a  free  burgh  by  David  II., 
with  limits  co-extensive  with  the  earldom  of  March  ; 
and  its  various  privileges  and  immunities  were  confirmed 
by  succeeding  sovereigns,  especially  by  two  charters  of 
Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  in  1555  and  1557,  and  charters 
of  James  VI.,  dated  at  Holyrood  House,  1603  and 
161S.  By  these  charters  the  government  was  vested 
in  a  provost,  three  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  council  of 
fifteen  burgesses,  of  whom  four  went  out  annually,  but 
were  capable  of  re-election,  and  by  the  new  council 
thus  formed  the  magistrates  were  appointed.  The  cor- 
poration, however,  is  now  chosen  under  the  authority 
of  the  act  of  the  3rd  and  4th  of  William  IV.,  and  con- 
sists of  a  provost,  three  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  fifteen 
councillors.  The  magistrates  are  justices  of  the  peace, 
with  jurisdiction  extending  over  the  whole  of  the  royalty, 
and  have  the  appointment  of  a  town-clerk,  chamberlain, 
procurator-fiscal,  superintendent  of  police,  and  two 
burgh  schoolmasters.  They  hold  civil  and  criminal 
courts,  which  were  once  of  some  importance  ;  in  the 
former  the  causes  are  of  very  trifling  amount,  and  in  the 
latter  the  charges  extend  only  to  petty  misdemeanours. 
A  sheriff's  court  for  the  recovery  of  small  debts  seems 
311 


to  have  almost  superseded  the  bailies'  civil  court.  The 
elective  franchise  clearly  appears  to  have  been  exercised 
in  1469,  and  most  probably  it  was  possessed  at  a  much 
earlier  period ;  the  town  returned  a  member  to  the 
Scottish  parliament  till  the  union,  since  which  period 
it  has  united  with  Haddington,  North  Berwick,  Jed- 
burgh, and  Lauder,  in  returning  one  representative  to 
the  imperial  parliament.  The  right  of  election  is,  under 
the  Reform  act,  vested  in  the  resident  £10  householders  ; 
the  number  of  registered  electors  is  about  130,  of 
whom  forty-five  are  burgesses.  The  gaol  is  an  incon- 
venient edifice  containing  two  rooms,  and  only  fit  for 
temporary  confinement  for  petty  misdemeanours  ;  all 
persons  charged  with  more  serious  offences  are  com- 
mitted to  the  county  gaol  at  Haddington. 

The  parish  is  situated  in  a  richly-cultivated  district, 
regarded  as  the  finest  for  corn  in  the  country ;  it  is 
nearly  eight  miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  extend- 
ing along  the  shores  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  some- 
thing more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  in  breadth.  The 
surface  is  varied  with  hills  and  dales,  the  ground  rising 
gently  from  the  sea  to  the  Lammermoor  heights  ;  the 
chief  eminences  are,  Brunt  hill,  which  has  an  elevation 
of  700,  and  Downhill,  which  rises  to  the  height  of  500 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  memorable  as  the 
site  of  Leslie's  encampment  previous  to  the  defeat  of 
his  forces  by  Cromwell.  The  scenery  is  pleasingly  va- 
ried, though  destitute  of  wood,  with  the  exception  of 
some  plantations  on  the  demesnes  of  the  principal  seats; 
and  from  the  summit  of  the  hills  are  obtained  extensive 
and  interesting  views  of  numerous  prominent  objects, 
among  which  St.  Abb's  Head,  Traprain  law,  the  Bass 
rock,  and  the  isle  of  May  are  very  conspicuous,  and  to 
which  the  beautiful  woods  of  Tynninghame  form  a  fine 
contrast.  The  Belton  water,  taking  its  name  from  the 
ancient  parish  in  which  it  rises,  joins  the  sea  a  little  below 
Belhaven  ;  the  Broxburn  falls  into  the  sea  at  Broxmouth 
Park,  and  the  Dryburn  skirts  the  parish  for  some  dis- 
tance on  the  east.  The  soil  is  generally  a  rich  brown 
loam  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  highly  improved,  and 
the  whole  of  the  parish,  estimated  at  7197  acres,  is  in 
the  best  state  of  cultivation,  producing  wheat  and  grain 
of  all  kinds,  beans,  peas,  and  turnips,  in  the  cultivation 
of  which  last  foreign  manure  is  applied  with  success. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £27,701.  The 
prevailing  substrata  are,  trap  rock,  red  sandstone,  lime- 
stone, and  whinstone.  The  rocks  are  of  the  secondary 
formation,  with  porphyritic  and  basaltic  greenstone  in 
some  parts,  and  partaking  also  of  the  columnar  charac- 
ter ;  the  columns  are  of  pentagonal  and  hexagonal 
structure,  and  of  unequal  surfaces.  Red  freestone  is 
also  found  in  some  parts,  of  different  degrees  of  com- 
pactness; the  limestone  is  of  excellent  quality,  and  is 
extensively  quarried  for  the  supply  of  the  parish  and  of 
distant  parts,  and  large  quantities  of  lime  are  sent  to  Ber- 
wickshire. Coal  is  found,  but  not  at  present  in  seams  of 
sufficient  thickness  to  pay  for  the  expense  of  working  it. 
Dunbar  House,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Lauderdale,  is 
within  the  park  of  the  old  castle ;  it  is  a  spacious  man- 
sion with  a  front  towards  the  sea,  from  which  it  is  a 
commanding  object.  Broxmouth  Park,  the  seat  of  the 
Dowager  Duchess  of  Roxburghe,  is  a  handsome  resi- 
dence of  modern  style,  beautifully  situated  in  a  demesne 
enriched  with  stately  timber  and  thriving  plantations, 
and    comprehending    much   varied    scenery.       Lochend 


D  UN  B 


DUNB 


House  is  an  elegant  mansion  in  the  later  English  style, 
containing  several  fine  apartments,  and  pleasantly  seated 
in  a  tastefully-disposed  and  well-cultivated  demesne. 
Belton  House  is  romantically  situated  in  a  deep  and 
■winding  glen,  watered  by  a  gently  flowing  stream,  and 
is  embosomed  in  woods  :  near  it  are  some  noble  silver- 
firs  more  than  two  centuries  old,  and  a  beech-tree  of 
remarkably  luxuriant  growth,  measuring  nearly  nineteen 
feet  in  girth  at  a  height  of  three  feet  from  the  ground. 
Ninewar  House  is  also  beautifully  situated,  on  a  gentle 
eminence  richly  wooded,  and  commanding  an  extensive 
view  of  the  circumjacent  country,  Belhaven  bay,  and 
the  Tynninghame  woods. 

The  parish  was  anciently  included  within  the  diocese 
of  Lindisfarne,  and,  together  with  the  other  portions  of 
Lothian,  was  given  up  to  the  king  of  Scotland  in  1020, 
and  annexed  to  the  bishopric  of  St.  Andrew's.  At  that 
time  it  was  more  extensive  than  at  present,  and,  in 
addition  to  the  mother  church,  comprehended  the  cha- 
pelries  of  Pinkterton,  Heatherwic,  Whittingham,  Pen- 
shiel,  Stenton,  and  Spott.  Patrick,  the  tenth  earl  of 
Dunbar,  in  1342  made  the  parochial  church  collegiate 
for  a  dean,  an  arch-priest,  and  eighteen  canons,  for 
whose  support  he  assigned  the  income  of  the  chapelries, 
which  were  subsequently  converted  into  churches  de- 
pendent on  that  of  Dunbar  as  corps  of  prebends  in  the 
college.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  now  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Dunbar  and  synod 
of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  stipend  of  the  incum- 
bent is  £331  ;  the  manse  is  a  comfortable  residence, 
built  in  1767,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at  £40  per  annum. 
The  collegiate  church,  a  handsome  cruciform  structure 
partly  in  the  Norman  and  early  English  styles,  was 
taken  down  in  1819,  and  the  present  church  was  built, 
and  opened  for  divine  service  on  the  20th  of  April,  1821 ; 
it  is  conveniently  situated,  and  contains  1S00  sittings. 
There  is  a  costly  monument  erected  to  the  memory 
of  George  Home  of  Manderston,  lord  high  treasurer  of 
Scotland,  whom  James  VI.,  in  1605,  created  Earl  of 
Duubar,  and  who  died  at  Whitehall  in  1611,  and  was 
interred  in  the  old  church,  from  which  the  monument 
was  removed  to  the  present.  He  is  represented  in  a 
kneeling  posture,  with  a  book  open  before  him,  and  on 
each  side  are  two  armed  knights  finely  sculptured, 
with  various  emblematical  devices.  There  are  places 
of  worship  for  the  Free  Church,  the  United  Associate 
Synod,  and  Wesleyans.  Two  schools  have  been  founded 
by  the  corporation ;  the  master  of  the  grammar  school 
has  a  salary  of  £42,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the 
master  of  the  mathematical  has  £20.  with  a  house,  both 
sums  paid  by  the  corporation.  There  are  also  two 
parochial  schools,  one  at  West  Barns,  of  which  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden, 
and  one  at  East  Barns,  of  which  the  master  receives 
only  a  single  chaldcr,  and  the  interest  of  £100  be- 
queathed by  William  Hume,  Esq.,  and  of  £50  by  the 
Rev.  George  Bruce. 

The  ruins  of  the  ancient  castle,  which  was  built  upon 
a  lofty  rock,  and  connected  with  a  battery  on  the  ad- 
joining land,  are  scarcely  sufficient  to  give  any  idea  of 
its  former  grandeur.  A  monastery  for  Red  Priars  was 
founded  in  1218,  by  Patrick,  sixth  earl  of  Dunbar  and 
March,  ol  which  some  slight  vestiges  are  still  remain- 
ing in  a  spot  called  the  Friars'  Croft ;  a  monastery  of 
Carmelites,  or  White  Friars,  was  founded  in  1263,  by 
312 


the  seventh  earl ;  and  there  was  a  Maison  Dieu  in  the 
burgh,  of  which  the  founder  and  its  history  are  alike 
unknown.  In  digging  the  site  of  the  reservoir  from 
which  the  town  is  supplied  with  water,  some  Roman 
medals  were  found,  on  which  was  inscribed  the  legend 
Judea  Captiva.  On  a  sequestered  spot  in  the  grounds 
of  Broxmouth  House,  is  a  tombstone  with  the  name  of 
Sir  William  Douglas  in  rude  characters ;  and  in  the 
park  is  an  elevated  mound  on  which  Oliver  Cromwell 
reconnoitered  the  forces  of  Leslie  previously  to  the 
battle  of  Downhill.  Columba  Dunbar,  who  was  dean  of 
the  collegiate  church,  and  subsequently  translated  to 
the  see  of  Moray  in  1411;  Thomas  Hay,  also  dean  of 
Dunbar,  and  in  1532  appointed  a  senator  of  the  College 
of  Justice  ;  and  Dr.  Andrew  Wood,  rector  of  Dunbar,  in 
I676  promoted  to  the  bishopric  of  the  Isles,  and  after- 
wards to  the  see  of  Caithness,  which  he  held  till  the 
Revolution,  are  among  the  distinguished  characters  con- 
nected with  the  place. 

DUNBARNY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth, 
3\  miles  (S.)  from  Perth  ;  containing,  with  the  villages 
of  Bridge  of  Earn  and  Kintillo,  1104  inhabitants.  The 
name  of  this  place,  variously  written  in  old  records,  but 
generally  Dunberny,  is  supposed  to  be  a  compound  of 
two  Celtic  terms,  dun,  a  hill,  and  beam,  a  breach  or 
fissure,  and  to  have  been  applied  to  the  parish  in  con- 
sequence of  the  church  and  principal  village  being 
on  the  estate  of  Dunbarny,  which  is  marked  by  a  fissure 
in  a  ridge  of  hills.  The  church  formerly  stood  a  mile 
westward  of  the  bridge  of  Earn  ;  but  this  site,  which 
was  near  the  extremity  of  the  parish,  being  found  in- 
convenient, it  became  necessary  to  build  a  new  church 
in  1684,  though  the  ancient  burial-ground  is  still  used 
as  a  cemetery.  The  church  of  Kirk-Pottie,  about  three 
miles  south  from  the  bridge,  and  the  chapel  of  Mon- 
crieffe,  standing  200  or  300  yards  south-east  from  the 
present  mansion  of  the  name,  were  both  appendages  to 
the  church  of  Dunbarny ;  but  the  lands  of  the  former 
place,  with  some  others,  were  annexed  ecclesiastically  in 
the  year  1652,  and  afterwards  civilly,  to  the  parish  of 
Dron,  on  account  of  their  contiguity,  and  the  ruins  of  the 
church  have  been  swept  away  within  the  last  few  years. 
The  area  comprehended  within  the  walls  of  the  chapel 
of  MoncriefFe,  which  are  still  standing  embosomed  in 
thick  wood,  has  long  been  used  as  the  burying-place  of 
the  ancient  family  of  that  name.  The  forest  of  Black 
Earnside,  formerly  extending  along  the  banks  of  the 
river  Earn,  was  celebrated  for  the  adventures  of  Sir 
William  Wallace,  especially  in  a  sanguinary  encounter 
there  maintained  with  the  English ;  and  at  Kilgrasfon, 
in  the  parish,  the  Covenanters  are  said  to  have  pitched 
their  camp  in  1645,  before  the  battle  of  Kilsyth. 

The  parish,  situated  in  the  most  beautiful  port  of 
Strathearn,  and  bounded  on  the  north  partly  by  Perth, 
is  about  four  miles  in  extreme  length  from  east  to  west, 
and  one  mile  and  a  quarter  in  average  breadth,  and 
comprises  3236  acres,  of  which  2640  are  under  culture, 
419  wood,  and  the  remainder  water,  roads,  and  waste. 
The  river  Earn  passes  through  in  a  winding  course 
from  west  to  east,  and  the  surface  is  generally  level,  the 
chief  exception  being  the  lofty  and  striking  elevation 
called  MoncriefFe  or  Moredun  hill,  which  rises  756  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  commands  from  its  summit  one  of 
the  most  magnificent  views  in  Scotland.  The  prospect 
comprehends  the  Carse  of  Gowric ;   the  Frith  of  Tay, 


D  U  N  B 


D  U  N  B 


with  the  town  of  Dundee ;  the  beautifully  rich  and  well- 
wooded  vale  of  Strathearn,  ornamented  with  the  mean- 
derings  of  the  river,  and  with  many  superior  mansions  ; 
the  picturesque  forms  of  the  Ochils  ;  and  the  fine  emi- 
nences of  Monteith.  On  the  north  and  west,  the  moun- 
tains of  Ben-Voirlich,  Benmore,  and  others  are  finely 
contrasted  with  the  nearer  scenery  of  Perth,  the  river 
Tay,  Kinnoull  hill,  and  Kinfauns  Castle;  and  beyond 
Crieff  appears  the  obelisk  raised  to  the  memory  of  Sir 
David  Baird  on  the  hill  of  Tom-a-chastel,  in  the  parish 
of  Monivaird,  with  that  of  Lord  Melville,  near  Comrie. 
The  scenery  is  much  indebted  for  its  general  beauty  to 
the  Earn,  though  its  stream  is  here  far  less  clear  than 
in  many  other  parts,  chiefly  on  account  of  the  mossy 
soil  through  which  it  passes ;  it  affords  trout,  whitling, 
pike,  and  salmon,  the  last,  however,  in  smaller  quanti- 
ties than  formerly.  The  soil  is  exceedingly  various, 
and  comprises  almost  every  description,  from  the  richest 
loam  to  the  poorest  clay.  On  the  south  side  of  the 
river  the  lands  are  very  flat,  and  consist  of  strong  wet 
clay ;  on  the  north  they  are  loamy ;  and  towards  the 
western  district,  a  red,  tilly,  impervious  earth  is  most 
prevalent.  Near  the  bridge  of  Earn,  at  some  depth 
beneath  the  surface,  is  a  stratum  of  moss  of  considerable 
thickness,  extending  for  several  hundred  yards,  and 
which  so  impregnates  all  the  water  near  the  village  as 
to  render  it  unpleasant ;  and  in  this  mossy  bed  large 
pieces  of  timber  are  found,  many  of  which  present 
curious  specimens  of  petrifaction.  Wheat,  oats,  barley, 
and  the  usual  green  crops  are  raised ;  the  cultivation  of 
potatoes,  especially  the  Perthshire  red  kind,  occupies 
a  large  proportion  of  the  ground  appropriated  to  the 
green  crops,  and  about  6000  bolls  are  yearly  sent  to 
London  and  to  Newcastle,  in  the  county  of  Northumber- 
land. The  rocks  are  mostly  whiustone  and  sandstone  of 
various  kinds,  of  which  several  quarries  are  in  opera- 
tion, and  the  substrata  exhibit  specimens  of  barytes, 
jasper,  agate,  chlorite,  and  a  variety  of  other  minerals. 
The  district  has  made  mauy  important  advances  in 
agriculture,  and  is  also  especially  worthy  of  notice  for 
the  rapid  increase  of  its  plantations,  comprehending  all 
kinds  of  trees,  which  now  cover  the  hill  of  Moncrieffe, 
formerly  overgrown  with  heath  and  furze,  and  enrich 
the  vale  of  Strathearn  in  every  direction.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £7605. 

The  house  of  Moncrieffe,  the  residence  of  the  ancient 
family  of  that  name,  descended  from  Ramerus  de  Mon- 
crieffe, who  was  keeper  of  the  wardrobe  to  Alexander  I., 
was  built  in  the  seventeenth  century ;  the  grounds 
are  thickly  planted  with  the  usual  trees,  interspersed 
with  horse-chesnut,  silver  and  spruce  firs,  lime,  plane, 
and  walnut,  and  the  garden  contains,  with  many  other 
rare  plants,  several  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and 
New  South  Wales.  The  other  mansions  are  those  of 
Pitkeathly,  in  the  grounds  of  which  is  a  tulip-tree  above 
1 00  years  old,  which  still  regularly  flowers ;  and  Kil- 
graston,  a  spacious  and  commodious  structure  in  the 
Grecian  style,  standing  in  a  large  well-wooded  park, 
and  containing  a  valuable  collection  of  pictures,  among 
which  is  one  of  the  finest  pieces  of  Guercino,  represent- 
ing Louis  IX.  renouncing  the  crown  for  a  monastic  life. 
There  is  also  the  house  of  Ballendrick,  a  convenient 
residence  with  excellent  out-buildings.  A  village  named 
Dunbarny  formerly  existed  on  the  road  leading  from 
the  property  of  that  name  to  Bridge  of  Earn  ;  but  the 
Vol.  I.— 313 


only  villages  now  comprehended  in  the  parish  are  those 
of  Kintillo  and  Bridge  of  Earn,  with  a  cluster  of  houses 
on  the  Pitkeathly  property,  and  a  number  of  elegant 
cottages  recently  erected  at  Craigend,  on  the  Edin- 
burgh road,  by  the  Moncrieffe  family.  With  regard 
to  its  ecclesiastical  affairs,  the  parish  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Perth  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling,  and  in 
the  patronage  of  Sir  Thomas  Moncrieffe,  Bart. ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £179,  with  a  manse,  a  vicarage 
tithe  of  forty-four  and  a-third  loads  of  coal,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £19  per  annum.  The  church  erected 
in  1684  stood  a  few  yards  west  of  the  present  structure, 
which  was  built  in  1787 ;  the  churchyard  was  partly 
formed  in  1821,  and  finished  some  years  afterwards, 
and  is  altogether  artificial,  being  composed  of  2000  cart- 
loads of  sand  brought  from  the  banks  of  the  river.  The 
members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the  ordinary 
branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  about 
£c25  fees,  and  also  receives,  for  teaching  poor  children, 
the  interest  of  500  merks  left  in  1677  by  the  Rev. 
Robert  Young,  £5  left  in  1743  by  John  Craigie,  Esq., 
and  £108  left  in  1820  by  the  Rev.  James  Beatson.  The 
late  Sir  David  Moncrieffe  bequeathed  a  sum,  as  a  prize, 
to  the  best  classical  scholar ;  and  there  are  two  bur- 
saries in  the  patronage  of  the  family,  one  for  St.  Mary's, 
and  the  other  for  St.  Salvator's  College,  St.  Andrew's. 
The  parish  contains  a  public  library  comprising  about 
300  volumes.  At  a  small  distance  from  Moncrieffe 
House  are  the  remains  of  a  Druidical  temple,  and  on 
the  summit  of  the  hill  of  that  name  is  a  circular  fosse, 
sixteen  yards  in  diameter,  in  the  centre  of  which  stood 
Carnac  fort,  formerly  belonging  to  the  Picts.  Near  Old 
Kilgraston  is  a  bulky  Spanish  chesnut-tree,  of  thick 
foliage,  said  to  have  been  planted  on  the  day  when 
Perth  capitulated  to  Oliver  Cromwell. 

DUNBEATH,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Latheron, 
county  of  Caithness,  20  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Wick  ; 
containing  40  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  river  Dunbeath,  which  here  discharges  itself  into 
the  North  Sea,  and  is  an  excellent  fishing-station.  An 
ancient  castle  stands  on  a  narrow  neck  of  land,  impend- 
ing on  one  side  over  the  sea,  and  on  the  other  over  a 
deep  chasm  into  which  the  tide  flows.  Near  the  ham- 
let is  an  entire  Picts'  house,  called  the  Bourg  of  Dun- 
beath. 

DUNBLANE,  an  ancient 
episcopal  town  and  parish, 
and  now  the  seat  of  a  pres- 
''k  bytery,  in  the  county  of 
SMw-C  PERTH ;  containing,  with 
'  IjJiS  the  village  of  Kinbuck,  3361 
iQ§M$  inhabitants,  of  whom  1911 
are  in  the  town,  6  miles 
(N.)  from  Stirling,  and  41| 
(W.  N.  W.)  from  Edinburgh. 
This  place  derives  its  pame 
from  an  eminence  on  which 
was  an  ancient  convent  of 
Culdees  founded  by  St.  Blaan  in  the  reign  of  Kenneth 
III.,  and  subsequently  erected  into  a  bishopric  by 
David  I.,  who  built  the  cathedral  church  about  the  year 
1 142.  The  diocese  comprised  part  of  the  counties  of 
Perth  and  Stirling,  and  continued  to  flourish  under  a 
succession  of  twenty-five  Roman  Catholic  prelates  till 

2S 


Burs.h  Seal. 


DUNB 


DU  NB 


the  Reformation,  when  its  revenues  were  valued  at 
£315  in  money,  exclusively  of  certain  payments  in 
wheat  and  other  grain.  Among  the  Protestant  bishops 
who  presided  over  the  see  after  that  period,  was  the 
venerable  Leighton,  who  was  consecrated  in  1662,  and 
in  1 669  was  translated  to  the  archiepiscopal  see  of  Glas- 
gow, in  which  he  continued  till  16/5.  At  his  death  he 
bequeathed  his  valuable  library  for  the  use  of  the  clergy 
of  the  diocese  of  Dunblane  ;  and  he  has  left  behind  him 
a  series  of  works  which  display  the  sound  learning  he 
possessed,  and  the  fervour  of  his  piety.  In  1715,  a 
sanguinary  battle  took  place  on  the  plains  of  Sheriff 
Muir,  to  the  north-east  of  the  town,  between  the  forces 
under  the  command  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll  and  those 
of  the  Pretender  led  by  the  Earl  of  Mar,  in  which 
both  parties  claimed  the  victory,  and  quietly  left  the 
field.  The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
road  from  Stirling  to  Perth,  and  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  river  Allan,  over  which  is  an  old  narrow 
bridge.  There  are  still  slight  remains  of  the  episcopal 
palace  to  the  south  of  the  cathedral,  on  the  margin 
of  the  river,  and  that  part  of  the  town  yet  retains  some 
faint  resemblance  to  its  ancient  character.  The  build- 
ing erected  for  the  library  of  Archbishop  Leighton  was 
endowed  under  his  will  with  £300  for  keeping  it  in  re- 
pair and  as  a  salary  for  the  librarian,  and  has  been 
recently  fitted  up  by  subscription  as  a  public  reading 
and  news  room  ;  the  library  has  received  various  addi- 
tions by  bequests  and  donations.  There  are  also  two 
libraries,  chiefly  of  religious  books,  supported  by  sub- 
scription. Close  to  the  town  is  a  neat  lodge,  to  which, 
during  the  summer  months,  a  supply  of  mineral  water 
is  brought  from  a  spring  called  the  Well  of  Dunblane, 
about  two  miles  distant.  It  was  proposed  to  bring  the 
water  into  the  town  by  pipes ;  but  this  purpose  not 
being  carried  into  effect,  a  village  has  been  built  near 
the  spot,  called  Bridge  of  Allan,  which  is  described 
under  its  own  head. 

The  inhabitants  are  principally  engaged  in  the  woollen 
manufacture,  of  which  there  are  three  establishments  in 
the  parish;  one  in  the  town,  in  which  215  persons  are 
employed  ;  one  in  the  small  village  of  Kinbuck,  and  the 
third  at  the  mill  of  Keir,  each  of  the  two  latter  afford- 
ing occupation  to  about  forty  persons.  A  considerable 
number  in  the  town,  likewise,  are  employed  in  hand- 
loom  weaving.  There  is  a  general  post-office,  and  two 
mails  pass  daily  through  the  place  :  fairs  are  held  on 
the  first  Wednesday  in  March,  the  first  Tuesday  after 
the  26th  of  May,  the  21st  of  August,  and  the  first 
Tuesday  in  November.  The  town,  being  within  the 
barony  of  Cromlix,  was  formerly  governed  by  a  bailie, 
appointed  by  the  Earl  of  Kinnoull  as  superior,  and  who 
held  courts  in  a  house  a  little  to  the  east  of  the  cathe- 
dral. The  old  gaol  has  been  taken  down  ;  and  a  new 
prison,  containing  eight  cells  and  a  house  for  the  gaoler, 
has  been  recently  erected  for  the  western  district,  upon 
the  site  once  occupied  by  the  mansion  of  Viscount  Strath- 
allan. 

The  parish,  which  is  situated  at  the  western  extre- 
mity of  the  Ochill  range,  is  about  nine  miles  in  length, 
and  nearly  six  in  breadth  ;  a  considerable  part  consists 
of  arable  land,  but  the  greater  portion  is  moor,  heath, 
and  pasture.  The  surface  is  much  diversified  with  hills 
of  various  elevation,  of  which  the  declivities  slope 
gradually  towards  Strathallan,  a  fertile  vale  through 
314 


which  the  river  Allan  flows  with  a  rapid  current,  between 
banks  in  some  parts  steep  and  richly  wooded,  and  pur- 
sues a  winding  course  till  it  falls  into  the  Forth  near 
Stirling  bridge.  The  rivulet  Ardoch  intersects  the  wes- 
tern part  of  the  parish,  and  in  both  streams  are  found 
trout  of  good  quality.  The  soil  is  various,  in  some 
parts  fertile,  in  others  affording  only  indifferent  pasture 
for  sheep  and  black-cattle ;  the  farms  are  generally  of 
small  extent,  the  buildings  substantial  and  commodious, 
and  a  considerable  portion  of  waste  land  has  been 
brought  into  cultivation.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £14,300.  The  substratum  is  mostly  red 
sandstone;  there  are  pits  of  shell  marl,  and  lime  is  ob- 
tained with  facility  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  by 
the  river  Forth,  and  has  been  plentifully  applied  to  the 
improvement  of  the  land.  Kilbryde  Castle,  the  seat  of 
Sir  James  Campbell,  of  Aberuchdl,  Bart.,  is  an  ancient 
structure  finely  situated ;  Keir  House  is  a  spacious 
mansion,  and  Kippenross  a  handsome  building  of  modern 
erection. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  uuder  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Dunblane  and  synod  of 
Perth  and  Stirling.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £289, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum; 
patron,  the  Crown.  The  church  is  the  choir  of  the 
ancient  cathedral,  originally  a  venerable  structure  com- 
bining elegant  details  of  the  Norman,  and  early  and 
decorated  English  styles,  216  feet  in  length  and  58 
feet  in  breadth  within  the  walls,  which  rise  to  the  height 
of  fifty  feet,  and  are  crowned  with  battlements.  The 
tower,  128  feet  in  height,  appears  to  be  of  later  date 
than  the  rest  of  the  cathedral  in  the  upper  part ;  but 
the  three  lower  of  the  five  stories  of  which  the  tower 
consists  seem  to  be  older,  and  to  have  been  erected  by 
the  ancient  Culdees.  The  choir  is  almost  entire  ;  the 
lofty  vaulted  roof  is  in  good  preservation,  and  the 
windows,  which  were  of  beautiful  design,  were  re- 
stored in  1819,  and  the  whole  of  the  interior  repaired. 
The  prebendal  stalls,  several  of  which  are  elaborately 
carved,  ?  are  preserved  in  the  avenues  leading  into 
the  choir,  which  contains  about  500  sittings,  the  whole 
free.  The  Episcopalians  havejust  erected  a  chapel;  the 
members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship, 
and  there  are  three  meeting-houses  for  the  United 
Secession.  The  parochial  school  is  conducted  by  a 
master  who  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £10.  10.  per 
annum  granted  by  the  crown  from  the  church  lands  ; 
also  a  house  and  garden,  and  fees  averaging  about  £50, 
out  of  which  he  pays  an  assistant.  There  are  several 
other  schools  in  the  parish,  including  two  partly  sup- 
ported by  subscription.  Archbishop  Leighton  be- 
queathed £1024  Scotch  to  the  poor  of  the  parish  ;  and 
a  sequestered  walk  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town, 
to  which  that  prelate  frequently  resorted,  is  still  called 
the  Bishop's  Walk.  Dunblane  gives  the  title  of  Viscount 
to  the  Duke  of  Leeds. 

DUNBOG,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cupar,  county 
of  Fife,  4  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from  Newburgh  ;  containing 
219  inhabitants.  This  place  derives  its  name,  of  Celtic 
origin,  and  signifying  the  bog  of  the  hill,  from  the  for- 
mer marshy  nature  of  the  grounds  at  the  base  of  the  hill 
of  Dunmore,  which  extends  into  the  parish.  A  portion 
of  the  lands  anciently  formed  part  of  the  barony  of  Balin- 
briech,  the  property  of  the  Rothes  family,  from  whom  it 
passed  into  the  possession  of  Lord  Home,  whose  descend- 


D  U  N  B 


D  U  N  C 


ant,  in  the  reign  of  James  IV.,  sold  the  lands  of  Dunbog  to 
David  Bethune,  of  Creich,  in  whose  family  they  remained 
till  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century.  In  1694 
the  estate  was  sold  to  Major  Balfour,  of  Starr,  by  whom 
it  was  forfeited  in  the  rebellion  of  1715;  it  was,  how- 
ever, restored  to  his  son,  from  whom  it  was  purchased 
in  1766  by  the  ancestor  of  the  Earl  of  Zetland,  its  pre- 
sent proprietor.  The  l'ATUSH  is  four  miles  in  length, 
and  varies  from  half  a  mile  to  one  mile  and  a  half  in 
breadth;  it  comprises  2130  acres,  of  "which  1S00  are 
arable,  300  hill  pasture,  and  thirty  woodland  and  plan- 
tations. The  surface  is  broken  by  two  continuous  chains 
of  hills,  extending  in  a  nearly  parallel  direction,  and 
inclosing  between  them  a  beautiful  vale  of  luxuriant 
fertility  ;  the  greatest  elevation  of  the  hills,  however, 
does  not  exceed  500  feet  above  the  sea.  The  northern 
chain,  which  is  a  eontinuation  of  the  hill  of  Dunmore, 
now  called  Norman's  Law,  is  cultivated  from  the  base 
to  the  summit,  and  commands  an  extensive  and  diver- 
sified view  of  the  surrounding  country,  embracing  the 
windings  of  the  river  Tay  till  it  disappears  behind 
the  projection  of  the  hill  of  Kinnoull,  the  rich  valley 
of  the  Earn,  the  Carse  of  Gowrie,  and,  to  the  east,  the 
town  of  Dundee,  and  the  estuary  of  the  Tay  at  its  influx 
into  the  German  Ocean.  Towards  the  north  appears 
the  range  of  the  Sidlaw  hills,  with  the  Grampians  in 
the  distance  towering  above  them  in  majestic  grandeur. 
The  southern  chain  of  hills  is  barren  and  uncultivated  ; 
some  few  spots  have  by  great  perseverance  been  ren- 
dered productive,  and  are  in  tillage,  but,  from  the  want 
of  wood  and  plantations,  the  general  appearance  is 
dreary  and  unpromising.  The  scenery  of  the  lower 
lands  of  the  parish  has  been  much  improved  by  the 
joint  exertions  of  the  proprietors  in  reclaiming  the  large 
tracts  of  bog  and  marsh  which  formerly  abounded,  and 
which  are  now  in  a  state  of  high  cultivation,  and  pro- 
duce abundant  crops.  The  river  Tay  washes  a  small 
portion  of  the  parish. 

The  soil  in  the  valley  is  a  rich  black  loam  ;  in  other 
parts  it  is  more  of  a  clay,  and  towards  the  east  light 
and  dry.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  greatly 
improved  state,  and  the  six-shift  rotation  plan  of  hus- 
bandry is  generally  practised ;  the  crops  are,  barley, 
oats,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips.  Little  attention  is 
paid  to  the  rearing  of  cattle  or  sheep  ;  of  the  latter  the 
few  that  are  fed  in  the  parish  are  of  the  Cheviot  breed, 
and  the  cattle  are  mostly  of  a  mixed  sort.  Great 
advances  have  been  made  in  draining,  but  the  lands 
are  not  inclosed,  and  the  want  of  fences  is  seriously 
felt.  The  substratum  is  principally  whinstone,  and  on 
the  summits  of  the  hills  are  found  boulders  of  granite  ; 
in  some  parts  of  the  valley  the  whinstone  occasionally 
rises  to  the  surface,  and  in  the  best  cultivated  and 
richest  land  are  spots  comparatively  barren.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2944.  The  mansion 
of  Dunbog,  the  property  of  Lord  Zetland,  and  at 
one  time  the  residence  of  Cardinal  Beaton,  was  erected 
on  the  site  of  a  religious  house  called  the  Preceptory 
of  Gadvan,  occupied  as  a  cell  belonging  to  the  abbey 
of  Balmerino,  by  a  few  monks  of  that  establishment, 
who  employed  themselves  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
adjoining  lands,  which,  with  the  exception  of  a  small 
portion  now  included  in  the  glebe,  are  laid  out  in  gar- 
den and  pleasure  grounds.  Collairney,  for  many  cen- 
turies the  property  of  the  Barclay  family,  was  pur- 
315 


chased  by  the  late  Dr.  Balfour  of  Fernie :  the  castle, 
formerly  the  baronial  residence  of  the  Barclays,  is  now 
a  ruin  consisting  only  of  one  of  the  towers,  containing 
some  small  apartments  with  roofs  divided  into  com- 
partments, and  emblazoned  with  the  arms  of  various 
members  of  that  family.  The  parish  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Cupar  and  synod  of  Fife,  and  in  the  gift  of  the 
Crown ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £204,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £8.  15.  per  annum.  The  church, 
situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  was  erected 
in  1803,  and  is  a  neat  and  well-arranged  edifice  adapted 
for  a  congregation  of  200  persons.  The  parochial  school 
affords  a  liberal  course  of  instruction ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £15  fees,  and  a  house  and 
garden. 

DUNCANSBAY,  a  township,  in  the  parish  of  Canis- 
bay,  county  of  Caithness,  9  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from 
Keiss ;  containing  302  inhabitants.  This  place,  said  to 
be  the  Berubium  of  Ptolemy,  is  a  beautiful  promontory, 
forming  the  north-east  corner  of  the  island  of  Great 
Britain,  of  a  circular  shape,  and  about  two  miles  in  cir- 
cumference. Towards  the  sea,  which  encompasses  two- 
thirds  of  the  Head,  it  is  one  continued  precipice ;  and 
on  the  land  side  is  a  deep  glen  or  ravine,  over  which  a 
small  bridge  is  thrown.  The  Stacks  of  Duncansbay 
are  pyramidical  pillars  of  naked  freestone  rock,  rearing 
their  fantastic  summits  to  a  considerable  altitude,  like 
huge  spires  of  an  old  cathedral,  and  are  frequented  by 
innumerable  sea-fowl.  On  the  highest  part  of  the 
Head  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  watch-tower,  whence 
is  a  prospect  the  most  noble  and  extensive  that  can 
be  imagined,  embracing  the  whole  Pentland  Frith, 
the  Orkney  islands,  the  German  Sea,  the  Moray  Frith, 
and  the  mountains  of  Banff,  Aberdeen,  and  Elgin.  The 
whole  promontory  is  covered  with  excellent  pasturage 
for  sheep,  intermixed  with  short  heath.  Here  was  for- 
merly a  chapel  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary ;  the  site 
is  still  known  by  the  name  of  Lady-Kirk,  though  no  re- 
mains of  the  edifice  exist. 

DUNCOW,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kirkmahoe, 
county  of  Dumfries,  1^  mile  (N.)  from  Kirkmahoe; 
containing  121  inhabitants.  It  is  seated  intermedi- 
ately between  the  Nith  and  Lochar  rivers,  and  on  a 
small  stream,  bearing  its  own  name,  that  falls  into  the 
former  a  short  distance  from  the  village  of  Kirkmahoe. 
The  barony  of  Duncow  once  belonged  to  the  family  of 
Cumin,  but  was  forfeited  by  them  on  the  accession  of 
Bruce,  and  bestowed  upon  the  Boyds ;  it  subsequently 
passed  to  the  Maxwell  and  Nithsdale  families,  and  re- 
mained with  the  latter  until  about  fifty  years  ago,  when 
it  was  divided  among  various  purchasers.  The  village 
is  one  of  five,  and  the  largest,  in  the  parish.  At  Dun- 
cow  mills  has  lately  been  erected  a  manufactory  for 
coarse  woollen-cloth,  wrought  both  by  water  and  steam. 
One  of  the  parochial  schools  is  situated  here,  of  which 
the  master  has  a  free-rent  dwelling,  and  besides  his 
salary  and  fees,  an  annual  payment  of  £5,  arising  from 
a  bequest  of  the  late  Mr.  Allan,  of  Newlands,  for  teach- 
ing fatherless  children. 

DUNCRIVIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Arngask, 
county  of  Kinross,  1  mile  (S.  W.)  from  Arngask;  con- 
taining 106  inhabitants.  This  village  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  the  road  from  Kinross  to  Perth,  upon  rising 
ground,  near  the  southern  extremity  of  the  parish  :  it 
contains  a  school. 

2  S  2 


D  U  N  D 


DUND 


Seal  and  Arms. 
Don  urn   Dei,   from  the 


DUNDEE,  aroyalburgh, 
sea-port  town,  and  parish,  in 
the  county  of  Forfar  ;  con- 
taining, with  part  of  the  vil- 
lage of  Lochee,  62,794  inha- 
bitants, of  whom  60,553  are 
within  the  burgh,  14  miles 
(S.  by  W.)  from  Forfar,  and 
40|  (N.  by  E.)  from  Edin- 
burgh. This  place  appears 
to  have  derived  its  name,  in 
ancient  records  Dondie,  and 
in  a  charter  of  Queen  Mary 
erection  of  the  church  in  the 
twelfth  century,  by  David,  Earl  of  Huntingdon,  brother 
of  King  William  the  Lion,  on  his  landing  here  in 
safety  after  a  severe  storm,  on  his  return  from  the 
Holy  Land,  whither,  with  500  of  his  countrymen,  he  had 
accompanied  Richard  Cceur  de  Lion,  King  of  England, 
in  his  third  crusade.  In  fulfilment  of  his  vow  to  grant 
to  him  the  first  ground  on  -which  he  should  land  on  his 
return,  the  Scottish  monarch  gave  his  brother  the  site 
now  occupied  by  Dundee  ;  and  the  earl,  in  gratitude  for 
his  preservation  from  shipwreck,  erected  a  spacious 
church,  around  which  subsequently  arose  the  present 
town.  There  seems  to  have  been  a  castle  or  fortress  on 
the  summit  of  a  rock  rising  precipitously  from  the  river, 
of  which  the  origin  is  altogether  unknown,  and  which, 
after  the  erection  of  the  church,  became  a  royal  resi- 
dence ;  but  from  the  shelter  it  afforded  to  the  enemy  in 
the  wars  with  England  during  the  reign  of  Edward  I., 
it  was  ultimately  demolished  by  the  Scots.  In  the  war 
consequent  on  the  disputed  succession  to  the  Scottish 
throne,  the  town  was  twice  taken  by  the  army  of  Edward 
I.,  by  whom  it  was  plundered  and  burnt;  and  in  13S5,  it 
was  again  nearly  reduced  to  ashes  by  the  English  forces 
under  the  Duke  of  Lancaster.  It  suffered  a  similar  de- 
vastation from  the  English  army  commanded  by  the 
protector,  Somerset,  in  an  attempt  to  compel  the  re- 
gency of  Scotland  to  negotiate  a  contract  of  marriage 
between  the  infant  princess,  Mary,  afterwards  Queen  of 
Scots,  and  the  son  of  Henry  VIII.,  Edward  VI.  of 
England.  At  the  time  of  the  Reformation,  the  inhabit- 
ants, who  were  zealous  for  the  cause,  proceeded  to 
Edinburgh  to  assist  in  besieging  the  French  troops 
stationed  in  Leith  ;  but  they  were  repulsed  with  con- 
siderable loss,  and  many  of  them  were  killed  in  endea- 
vouring to  effect  their  retreat  into  the  city. 

In  1645,  the  Marquess  of  Montrose,  at  the  head  of 
150  cavalry  and  600  infantry,  sent  a  summons  to  the 
town  to  surrender,  and  on  the  imprisonment  of  his  mes- 
senger by  the  inhabitants,  attacked  it  simultaneously  in 
three  different  quarters,  and,  after  plundering  and  setting 
fire  to  it  on  the  east  and  north  sides,  abandoned  the 
people  to  military  execution.  In  1651,  after  the  battle 
of  Worcester,  the  town  was  besieged  by  General  Monk, 
to  whom  it  was  compelled  to  yield,  though  not  without 
a  valiant  resistance.  The  governor,  Lumsden,  retired 
with  part  of  the  garrison  to  the  tower  of  the  church, 
which  for  some  time  he  maintained  to  the  annoyance  of 
the  enemy  ;  but  being  at  length  obliged  to  submit,  he 
was,  together  with  all  his  companions,  inhumanly  mur- 
dered in  the  churchyard,  and  his  head  placed  on  a  spike 
on  the  battlements  of  the  tower.  On  this  occasion,  the 
town  was  plundered  of  every  thing  of  value,  and  sixty 
316 


ships  in  the  harbour  were  laden  with  the  spoils,  valued  at 
£200,000  sterling,  and  sent  off  to  England  ;  but  in  pass- 
ing the  bar  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  every  vessel  was 
lost.  The  inhabitants  were  slaughtered  without  regard 
either  to  age  or  sex ;  and  in  the  general  carnage,  which 
continued  for  three  days,  it  is  estimated  that  more  than 
one-sixth  of  the  inhabitants  were  put  to  death.  In 
1669,  the  town  was  so  greatly  reduced  that  an  act  of 
parliament,  was  passed,  recommending  it  to  the  benevo- 
lent consideration  of  the  whole  kingdom  ;  and  contribu- 
tions were  made  for  its  assistance  by  all  the  principal 
burghs  in  the  country.  The  various  calamities  which 
the  town  had  experienced  were,  moreover,  subsequently 
aggravated  by  a  dearth  that  lasted  for  seven  years,  and 
it  was  not  till  after  the  rebellion  in  1745  that  it  began  to 
recover  its  former  importance,  since  which  time  few 
events  of  historical  interest  have  taken  place.  In  1841, 
three  of  the  churches  were  destroyed  by  an  accidental 
fire  which  originated  from  a  stove  in  the  passage  between 
the  south  and  the  steeple  churches,  on  the  morning  of 
the  3rd  of  January.  The  flames  extended  to  the  cathe- 
dral and  the  cross  church,  but  the  firemen  prevented 
their  communication  to  the  steeple  church,  which  was 
saved :  the  other  three,  however,  about  half-past  six 
o'clock,  were  one  mass  of  fire  ;  the  cathedral  was  com- 
pletely destroyed,  and  the  south  and  cross  churches 
were  almost  reduced  to  ruins.  In  1844,  Her  Majesty 
Queen  Victoria,  attended  by  Prince  Albert,  arrived  in 
the  bay  of  Dundee,  on  Wednesday,  the  11th  of  Septem- 
ber, on  a  visit  to  Lord  Glenlyon,  and  lauded  under  a 
triumphal  arch  erected  on  the  occasion.  After  remain- 
ing a  short  time  in  the  town,  the  royal  visiters  proceeded 
to  Blair-Atholl,  where  they  remained  till  Tuesday,  the 
1st  of  October,  when  they  returned  to  Dundee,  and  em- 
barked for  London. 

The  town  is  advantageously  situated  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Tay,  and  consists  of  numerous  streets,  of 
which  several  retain  the  name  of  the  ancient  gates  in  the 
old  walls,  which  have  been  long  since  removed.  The 
principal  street,  called  the  High-street,  in  which  is  the 
market-place,  is  about  120  yards  in  length,  and  100  feet 
wide ;  the  houses  are  neatly  built  of  stone,  and  four 
stories  in  height.  To  the  east  of  this  is  the  Seagate, 
one  of  the  oldest  streets  of  the  town,  a  long  narrow 
thoroughfare  leading  to  the  road  to  Broughty-Ferry. 
The  Murraygate,  containing  many  well-built  houses,  and 
the  Cowgate,  adjoining,  are  connected  with  the  Seagate 
by  numerous  cross  streets  or  lanes.  King-street,  of 
modern  erection,  contains  handsome  houses,  and  the 
Nethergate,  in  the  most  improved  part  of  the  town,  is  a 
spacious  street  of  considerable  length,  containing  many 
elegant  detached  houses.  Castle- street,  leading  from  the 
south-east  angle  of  the  High-street  to  the  harbour,  and 
Union-street,  opening  a  direct  communication  between 
Craig  Pier  and  the  Nethergate,  and  in  the  formation  of 
which  many  unsightly  houses  have  been  rebuilt  in  an  ex- 
cellent style,  are  each  spacious  and  handsome.  Among 
the  many  improvements  that  have  been  effected  of  recent 
years,  is  the  construction  of  the  splendid  Reform-street. 
The  streets  are  well  paved,  and  the  roads  macadamized ; 
the  town  is  lighted  with  gas,  from  works  established  by 
a  company,  about  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  High-street, 
and  the  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  with  water.  The 
public  subscription  library  contains  a  collection  of  more 
than  6000  volumes ;  there  are  also  district  libraries  con- 


D  UN  D 


D  U  N  D 


nected  with  the  several  churches,  each  of  which  has 
nearly  1000  volumes.  A  spacious  and  elegant  reading 
and  news  room  has  lately  been  opened  near  the  harbour, 
called  the  Exchange  Coffee  Room,  and  is  supported  by 
above  400  subscribers  ;  and  an  artizans'  reading-room, 
well  supplied  with  daily  journals,  has  been  founded  by 
members  of  the  Watt  Institution,  and  has  200  sub- 
scribers. The  Watt  Institution  was  established  in  1826 
for  the  delivery  of  lectures  on  scientific  subjects,  and  has 
now  an  extensive  library,  consisting  chiefly  of  works  of 
art ;  a  reading-room  has  also  been  provided  by  Messrs. 
Brown,  proprietors  of  the  spinning-mills,  for  the  use  of 
their  workmen.  There  is  a  theatre  in  Castle- street, 
a  handsome  and  well-arranged  edifice  ;  and  card  and 
dancing  assemblies  are  held  in  the  town-hall,  and 
other  public  buildings.  A  horticultural  society  was 
established  in  1S24,  under  the  patronage  of  the  neigh- 
bouring nobility  and  gentry ;  and  a  florists'  society  has 
also  been  formed.  The  old  gardens  of  Chapelshade,  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  town,  have  recently  been  converted 
into  a  cemetery,  and  tastefully  laid  out  in  walks,  parterres, 
and  shrubberies,  with  appropriate  embellishments  ;  and 
to  the  north,  a  public  bleach-green,  four  acres  in  extent, 
and  containing  the  requisite  apparatus  for  family  washing, 
has  been  inclosed,  and  planted  with  ornamental  shrubs. 

The  principal  trade  pursued  is  the  linen  manufac- 
ture, which  was  introduced  at  an  early  period,  and,  till 
within  the  last  forty  years,  was  carried  on  entirely  by 
hand,  both  in  spinning  the  yarn  and  weaving  the  cloth, 
to  a  very  considerable  extent  for  the  supply  of  the 
neighbourhood,  and  also  for  exportation.  Since  the 
introduction  of  machinery  and  the  application  of  steam, 
however,  it  has  increased  to  an  amazing  amount.  In 
1811  four  spinning- mills  had  been  erected,  driven  by 
steam-engines  of  the  aggregate  power  of  sixty-one 
horses,  consuming  46S  tons  of  flax  annually,  and  pro- 
ducing 224,600  spindles  of  yarn  ;  and  the  whole  of  the 
capital  invested  amounted  to  £22,000.  At  present  there 
are  more  than  thirty-six  spinning-mills,  driven  by  steam- 
engines  of  the  aggregate  power  of  600  horses,  consum- 
ing a  vast  quantity  of  flax,  and  producing  annually 
7,500,000  spindles  of  yarn;  and  the  capital  invested  is 
about  £240,000.  In  these  mills  above  3000  persons  are 
regularly  employed,  of  whom  a  large  proportion  are 
women  and  children,  and  the  amount  of  wages  annually 
paid  is  £160,000.  The  flax  is  chiefly  imported  from 
Russia,  Brabant,  Holland,  and  Prussia,  and  the  quan- 
tity landed  at  Dundee  annually  during  the  ten  years 
ending  1S44  averaged  2S.992  tons  ;  the  goods  manu- 
factured are,  Osnaburghs,  sheetings,  sailcloth,  sack- 
ing, and  bagging,  and  various  other  articles,  of  which 
large  quantities  are  exported  to  the  West  Indies,  North 
and  South  America,  and  to  various  ports  on  the  con- 
tinent. The  tanning  of  leather,  which  was  formerly 
carried  on  to  a  very  considerable  extent,  has  for  some 
years  been  rapidly  diminishing,  and  is  now  almost 
extinct ;  but  the  manufacture  of  ropes  and  cordage 
is  in  a  flourishing  state.  The  trade  of  the  port  con- 
sists chiefly  in  the  exportation  of  grain  and  agricul- 
tural produce,  and  the  different  articles  of  the  linen 
manufacture  ;  and  in  the  importation  of  flax,  hemp, 
lime,  coal,  ashes,  timber,  iron,  tar,  whale-blubber,  tal- 
low, and  other  merchandise.  The  number  of  vessels 
registered  as  belonging  to  the  port  in  1S44  was  326,  of 
.the  aggregate  burthen  of  50,901  tons  j  the  number  of 
317 


vessels  that  entered  inwards  from  foreign  ports  in  a 
late  year  was  307,  of  which  253  were  British  and  54 
foreign  ;  and  the  amount  of  duties  paid  at  the  custom- 
house in  1843  was  £40,471.  The  coasting- trade  is 
very  extensive,  and  it  appears  that  in  one  year  1858 
vessels  entered  inwards,  and  1017  cleared  outwards. 

The  harbour,  previously  to  the  year  1815,  was 
small ;  but  in  that  year,  an  act  for  its  improvement  and 
for  placing  it  under  the  management  of  commissioners 
was  obtained,  and  before  1S33  the  sum  of  £242,000 
was  expended  in  the  construction  of  two  capacious 
wet-docks,  of  nearly  eleven  acres  in  extent,  andcommenc- 
ing  a  third  of  much  more  ample  dimensions.  A  large 
tide  harbour  was  also  formed,  with  extensive  quays, 
as  well  as  a  graving-dock,  capable  of  receiving  three 
of  the  largest  class  of  merchant  ships,  with  commo- 
dious yards  for  building  and  repairing  vessels.  A  sub- 
stantial low-water  pier  has  since  been  erected  on  the 
Craig,  the  usual  landing-place  from  Newport,  in  Fife- 
shire,  between  which  place  and  Dundee  hourly  inter- 
course by  steamers  is  maintained.  A  stationary  light, 
too,  has  been  placed  on  the  Craig  pier,  on  the  western 
side  of  the  harbour,  and  also  on  the  pier  at  Newport ; 
there  is  likewise  a  light  exhibited  on  the  east  pier,  and 
another  on  the  middle  pier,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
docks.  A  grant  of  £S000  was  lately  made  by  govern- 
ment for  the  erection  of  a  new  custom-house  at  the 
north-east  angle  of  King  William's  dock  ;  it  is  a  hand- 
some building  in  the  Grecian  style,  and  contains  also 
accommodation  for  transacting  the  business  of  the  har- 
bour commissioners  and  of  the  excise-office.  Prior 
to  1834,  the  Dundee,  Perth,  and  London  Shipping  Com- 
pany employed  eight  smacks  in  the  London  trade,  hav- 
ing an  aggregate  burthen  of  991  tons  ;  also  three  vessels 
in  the  Glasgow  trade,  four  in  the  Liverpool,  and  four  in 
the  Perth,  the  tonnage  of  these  eleven  amounting  to 
6/3.  In  that  year,  however,  the  company  built  two 
powerful  steamers,  the  Dundee  and  Perth,  of  300-horse 
power  each,  and  subsequently  added  a  third,  the  London, 
of  350-horse  power.  Besides  these,  they  employ  four 
schooners  in  the  London  trade,  seven  sloops  in  the 
Glasgow,  four  in  the  Leith,  and  three  lighters  and  a 
steam-tug  in  the  Perth  trade ;  and  the  entire  tonnage  of 
the  steamers  and  sailing-vessels  belonging  to  the  com- 
pany now  amounts  to  2686.  Two  steamers,  also,  are 
employed  by  other  parties,  in  the  Dundee  and  Leith 
trade.  There  are  likewise  several  joint-stock  whale- 
fishing  companies,  employing  five  ships,  averaging  325 
tons'  burthen  each. 

The  town  was  originally  erected  into  a  royal  burgh 
by  charter  of  William  the  Lion,  and  its  privileges  as 
such  were  confirmed  by  charter  of  Robert  Bruce,  and  by 
one  of  Charles  I.  of  England  in  1641.  In  consequence  of 
a  dispute  in  the  election  of  a  dean  of  guild,  the  burgh 
was  disfranchised  in  1S30,  and  seven  members  were 
appointed  by  the  court  of  session  to  manage  the  inter- 
ests of  the  town;  but  in  1S31  the  king,  in  answer  to 
a  petition,  confirmed  an  election  of  the  magistrates  and 
council  made  by  the  burgesses  and  heritors ;  and  in  the 
2nd  of  William  IV.  an  act  was  passed,  extending  the 
royalty  of  the  burgh  and  the  jurisdiction  of  the  magis- 
trates. Under  these  regulations,  the  government  is 
vested  in  a  provost,  four  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a 
treasurer,  and  fourteen  other  councillors,  elected  under 
the  regulations  of  the  general  Municipal  act,  with  the 


D  U  ND 


DUND 


exception  of  the  dean  of  guild,  -who  is  chosen  by 
the  guild  brethren.  Of  the  'councillors,  seven  retire 
from  office  annually.  There  are  nine  incorporated 
guilds,  the  bakers,  shoemakers,  glovers,  tailors,  bon- 
net-makers, butchers,  hammermen,  weavers,  and  dyers  ; 
and  three  united  trades,  the  masons,  wrights,  and  sla- 
ters. The  magistrates  have  jurisdiction  over  the  whole 
of  the  extended  royalty,  which  is  co-extensive  with  the 
parliamentary  boundary,  and  hold  courts  weekly  on 
Wednesday,  for  the  recovery  of  debts  to  any  amount, 
in  which  the  bailies  preside  for  one  month  each  in 
rotation  ■  the  more  important  criminal  cases,  however, 
are  tried  by  the  sheriff-substitute,  who  is  resident  in 
the  town,  and  those  of  less  importance  are  disposed  of 
in  the  police  court.  The  sheriff-substitute  also  holds  a 
court  weekly,  during  the  session,  for  the  recovery  of 
debts  not  exceeding  £S.  6.  S. ;  and  a  court  for  the  reco- 
very of  small  debts  is  held  by  the  magistrates  every 
alternate  week.  There  is  a  dean-of-guild  court  as  occa- 
sion requires,  in  which  the  clerk  of  the  guildry  acts  as 
assessor.  Under  the  Police  act  the  town  is  divided 
into  eleven  wards,  to  each  of  which  are  appointed  two 
general  and  two  resident  commissioners  ;  and  there  is 
also  a  harbour  police.  Previously  to  the  Reform  act  the 
burgh  was  associated  with  those  of  Perth,  Cupar  of 
Fife,  St.  Andrew's,  and  Forfar,  in  returning  a  member 
to  the  imperial  parliament ;  since  that  time  it  has 
elected  a  member  of  its  own,  and  the  number  of  qua- 
lified voters  is  about  2740. 

The  old  Town-hall,  erected  in  1734,  on  the  site  of 
the  ancient  church  of  St.  Clement,  after  a  design  by 
Mr.  Adam,  is  a  spacious  and  handsome  structure  with 
a  tower  and  spire  rising  to  the  height  of  100  feet;  in 
front  is  a  piazza,  behind  which  are  shops  and  public 
offices.  On  the  first  floor  are  two  spacious  halls,  in 
one  of  which,  embellished  with  a  portrait  of  Lord  Pan- 
mure,  the  corporation  hold  meetings  for  the  transaction 
of  public  business,  and  in  the  other  the  several  courts 
of  the  magistrates  and  sheriff  are  held,  and  the  meet- 
ings of  the  guildry.  There  are  also  four  arched  rooms 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  town-clerks  and  others 
connected  with  the  courts,  and  for  the  preservation  of 
the  public  records  ;  and  above  these  is  the  old  town 
gaol,  consisting  of  five  apartments,  each  twenty-four 
feet  in  length  and  twelve  feet  wide,  of  which  those  in 
front  were  used  for  debtors,  and  the  others  for  crimi- 
nals. New  public  buildings,  however,  of  very  hand- 
some construction,  have  been  recently  erected  by  the 
burgh,  at  a  considerable  expense,  and  containing  ample 
accommodation  for  the  confinement  of  prisoners.  The 
Trades'  Hall,  situated  at  the  east  end  of  the  market- 
place, an  elegant  building  of  the  Ionic  order,  with  a 
lantern  and  cupola  rising  from  the  centre  of  the  roof, 
was  erected  by  the  nine  incorporated  trades  in  1770, 
and  contains  on  the  first  floor  a  handsome  hall,  fifty 
feet  in  length  and  twenty-five  feet  wide,  for  holding  the 
general  meetings,  and  nine  other  apartments  for  the 
private  meetings  of  each  particular  trade.  The  build- 
ing appropriated  as  an  Exchange  is  a  handsome  struc- 
ture in  the  Grecian  style,  erected  by  a  company  of  sub- 
scribers, at  an  expense  of  £10,000,  and  having  on  the 
ground-floor  a  range  of  offices  and  shops,  and  on  the 
first  floor  an  elegant  hall,  now  used  as  a  reading  and 
news  room,  to  which  reference  has  been  already  made. 
There  are  several  banking  establishments,  of  which  the 
318 


principal  are,  the  Dundee,  the  Union,  and  the  Eastern 
banks,  and  four  branches  of  the  Edinburgh  bank  :  the 
Forfarshire  and  Perthshire  Insurance  Company,  the 
Marine  Insurance  Company,  the  Forfarshire  Chamber 
of  Commerce,  and  two  associations  of  underwriters  have 
been  also  established  in  the  town.  The  markets  are  on 
Tuesday  and  Friday,  and  Dundee  being  the  great  mart 
for  a  large  surrounding  district,  are  numerously  at- 
tended. On  the  Tuesday,  manufactured  \  goods  and 
various  kinds  of  merchandise  and  provisions  are  ex- 
posed to  sale  in  great  profusion  ■  and  on  the  Friday,  in 
addition  to  these,  there  is  an  abundant  supply  of  grain. 
Facilities  of  communication,  besides  those  by  sea,  are 
afforded  by  excellent  roads,  of  which  the  coast  road  to 
Aberdeen  passes  through  the  town :  there  are  turn- 
pike-roads to  Cupar-Angus,  Forfar,  Brechin,  and  Glas- 
gow, and  by  branch  roads  through  Frfeshire  to  Edin- 
burgh. The  Dundee  and  Newtyle  railway  was  com- 
menced in  1826,  and  completed  in  1832,  at  a  cost  of 
£50,000  ;  it  is  about  eleven  miles  in  length.  The  line 
from  the  north  of  the  town  ascends  an  inclined  plane 
of  about  800  yards  in  length,  from  the  summit  of  which 
it  passes  through  a  tunnel  in  the  Law  of  Dundee,  and 
beyond  this  are  two  more  inclined  planes  before  it  reaches 
Newtyle;  the  summit  level  is  500  feet,  and  the  car- 
riages are  drawn  up  the  ascents  by  fixed,  and  on  the 
other  parts  of  the  line  by  locomotive,  engines.  Branches 
have  been  opened  to  Cupar-Angus  and  Glammis,  under 
acts  of  parliament  passed  in  1835,  and  the  whole  cost 
is  estimated  at  £90,000.  The  Dundee  and  Arbroath 
railway  was  commenced  in  1836,  by  a  company  em- 
powered to  raise  a  capital  of  £100,000,  and  completed 
in  1840  :  the  line,  which  is  almost  seventeen  miles  in 
length,  nearly  level  throughout,  and  passes  close  to 
the  shore,  is  wrought  by  locomotive-engines. 

The  parish  is  nearly  six  miles  in  length,  from  east 
to  west,  and  varies  greatly  in  breadth,  comprising  an 
area  of  about  4200  acres,  of  which  254  are  woodland 
and  plantations,  135  waste,  and  the  remainder  arable 
and  pasture.  The  surface  is  diversified,  rising  into  hills 
of  considerable  elevation,  of  which  the  Law,  and  the 
hill  of  Balgay,  are  the  most  conspicuous ;  the  soil  to  the 
west  of  the  town  is  light  and  shallow,  to  the  north  and 
east  of  richer  quality,  and  along  the  bank  of  the  Tay 
luxuriantly  fertile.  The  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat, 
turnips,  and  potatoes,  with  the  various  grasses  ;  the 
system  of  husbandry  is  advanced,  and  the  lands  are  in. 
a  high  state  of  cultivation.  The  farm-houses  are  gene- 
rally of  stone,  and  roofed  with  slate ;  the  lands  are 
inclosed  partly  with  stone  dykes,  and  partly  with 
hedges  of  thorn.  The  only  cattle  pastured  are  milch- 
cows  on  the  several  farms.  The  soil  is  well  adapted  for 
fruit  of  every  kind,  and  considerable  portions  of  the 
land  near  the  town  are  laid  down  in  gardens,  and  also 
in  nursery-grounds.  The  plantations  are,  ash,  plane, 
beech,  a  few  elms,  and  larch  and  Scotch  fir,  which  are 
in  a  thriving  state,  but  are  rather  ornamental  than 
profitable.  The  principal  substrata  are,  sandstone, 
amygdaloid  alternated  with  trap,  and  red  porphyry. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £118,326. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Dundee  and  synod  of 
Angus  and  Mearns.  The  parish  was  in  1834  separated, 
by  act  of  the  presbytery,  into  the  districts  of  St.  Mary, 
St.  Paul,  the  Grey  Friars,  St.  John,  St.  Clement,  St. 


D  U  N  D 


D  UN  D 


David,  St.  Andrew,  and  Chapelshade,  each  of  which  was 
erected  into  a  quoad  sacra  parish ;  and  in  1836,  by 
the  same  authority,  part  of  the  districts  of  St..  John  and 
St.  David  was  formed  into  the  additional  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  St.  Peter.  These  arrangements,  however,  in 
common  with  similar  arrangements  in  other  parts  of  the 
country,  were  afterwards  abrogated.  The  parish  of  St. 
Mary  comprised,  according  to  the  plans  just  referred  to, 
the  rural  district  of  the  parish  of  Dundee,  and  part  of  the 
suburbs  of  the  town  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £313.  6., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £25  per  annum ; 
patrons,  the  Town  Council.  The  Old  and  South  churches, 
partly  used  by  the  inhabitants  of  St.  Mary's,  have  since 
the  fire  been  restored,  and  contain  together  about  2450 
sittings,  of  which  1350  are  in  the  latter.  The  parish 
of  St.  Paul,  wholly  within  the  town,  comprised  an 
extent  of  about  half  a  mile  square ;  the  stipend  is 
£274.  17- ;  patrons,  the  Town  Council.  The  congrega- 
tion assemble  alternately  in  the  Old  and  South  churches. 
The  parish  of  the  Grey  Friars  comprised  about  one-eighth 
part  of  the  town  and  suburbs  ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £275.  2. ;  patrons,  the  Town  Council.  Divine  ser- 
vice is  performed  in  the  Old  and  South  churches. 
Connected  with  the  Established  Church  is  a  Gaelic 
chapel,  erected  within  the  last  few  years,  at  a  cost  of 
£2400,  and  containing  100  sittings  :  the  minister  has  a 
stipend  of  £110,  of  which  £10  are  granted  by  the 
Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge,  and  the 
remainder  derived  from  seat -rents ;  patrons,  the  male 
communicants.  The  parish  of  St.  John  was  about  half 
a  mile  in  length,  and  of  nearly  equal  breadth ;  the  sti- 
pend is  £275  ;  patrons,  the  Town  Council.  The  church, 
called  the  Cross  church,  containing  about  1037  sittings, 
was  destroyed  in  1S41  by  the  fire,  but  has  been  re- 
stored. The  parish  of  St.  Clement  was  three-quarters  of 
a  mile  in  length,  and  one- quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £300 ;  patrons,  the  Council. 
The  church,  called  the  Steeple  church,  was  rebuilt  in 
1782,  and  contains  1463  sittings.  The  parish  of  St. 
David  was  about  two  miles  in  length,  and  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  in  breadth  ;  the  stipend  is  £275  ;  patrons,  the 
Council.  The  church  was  built  in  1S00,  at  a  cost  of 
£2220,  and  has  160S  sittings.  The  parish  of  St.  Andrew 
was  one  mile  and  three-quarters  in  length,  and  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  breadth;  the  stipend  is  £180; 
patrons,  the  male  communicants.  The  church  was 
built  in  1774,  at  a  cost  of  £3000,  raised  by  subscription, 
and  contains  1486  sittings  :  an  additional  church  has 
been  recently  erected,  by  subscription,  at  an  expense  of 
nearly  £2000,  for  1100  persons.  The  parish  of  Chapel- 
shade  comprised  nearly  two  square  miles  ;  the  stipend 
is  £150,  derived  from  seat-rents ;  patrons,  the  male 
communicants.  The  church,  built  originally  as  a  Relief 
chapel  in  1789,  was  united  to  the  Established  Church 
in  1791  .;  it  was  enlarged  in  1S30,  at  an  expense  of 
£880,  and  contains  1280  sittings.  The  parish  of  St. 
Peter,  comprising  a  portion  of  the  parishes  of  St.  John 
and  St.  David,  separated  by  the  presbytery  in  1836,  was 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  and  one-quarter  of 
a  mile  in  breadth  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £220,  with 
an  allowance  of  £12  for  communion  elements;  patrons, 
the  male  communicants.  The  church,  which  contains 
1120  sittings,  was  erected  in  1836,  at  a  cost  of  £2400, 
of  which  £250  were  granted  by  the  General  Assembly, 
and  the  remainder  raised  by  subscription.  There  are 
319 


also  places  of  worship  in  Dundee  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church,  the  United  Associate  Secession,  Original 
Seceders,  Baptists,  Baptist-Bereans,  and  Psedobaptist- 
Bereans,  Original  Burghers,  Episcopalians,  the  Society 
of  Friends,  Glassites,  United  Christians,  "the  Holy 
Catholic  and  Apostolic  Church,"  Old  Scotch  Independ- 
ents, the  New  Jerusalem  Church,  Primitive  and  United 
Methodists,  Reformed  Presbyterians,  the  Relief  Church, 
Wesleyans,  Roman  Catholics,  and  Unitarians. 

The  grammar  school  is  under  the  care  of  two  clas- 
sical masters,  who  have  each  a  salary  of  £50,  and  the 
fees  annually  produce  to  each  about  £60  ;  it  is  well 
conducted  and  numerously  attended.  The  English 
school  has  also  two  masters,  one  for  reading  and  English 
grammar,  who  has  a  salary  of  £30,  and  one  for  writing 
and  arithmetic,  with  a  salary  of  £20,  in  addition  to 
which  each  master  derives  about  £70  from  fees.  The 
Sessional  school,  recently  established,  is  attended  by 
about  500  children,  and  conducted  by  a  master  who  has 
a  salary  of  £80  per  annum  ;  the  building  was  erected 
on  a  site  given  by  the  town  council.  The  Dundee 
Academy,  for  which  a  spacious  and  handsome  building 
has  been  erected  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  at  a  cost  of 
£S000,  raised  chiefly  by  subscription,  is  under  the  pa- 
tronage of  fifteen  directors,  of  whom  five  are  appointed 
by  the  town  council  and  ten  by  the  subscribers.  This 
institution  is  endowed  with  £6000,  bequeathed  by 
Messrs.  Webster,  of  London,  who  were  natives  of  the 
town.  The  course  of  studies  is  very  complete,  and  is 
superintended  by  two  classical  masters  ;  a  master  for 
the  modern  languages ;  one  for  moral  philosophy,  nau- 
tical astronomy,  and  logic ;  a  master  for  natural  philo- 
sophy, mathematics,  and  chemistry ;  one  for  drawing 
and  painting ;  one  for  English  reading,  grammar,  and 
geography,  and  a  master  for  writing  and  arithmetic. 
There  are  numerous  other  schools  in  the  town  and 
neighbourhood,  in  which  it  is  calculated  that  about 
4000  children  receive  instruction.  Among  the  many 
charitable  institutions  of  the  town  are,  the  ancient  Hos- 
pital, from  the  revenues  of  which  £500  are  annually 
distributed  among  poor  citizens  ;  the  Royal  Infirmary, 
established  in  1798,  and  supported  by  subscription, 
which  receives  more  than  thirty  in-patients,  and  af- 
fords medical  attendance  and  medicines  to  the  poor  at 
their  own  dwellings  ;  the  Royal  LunaticAsylum,  erected 
in  1812,  and  supported  by  subscription  for  the  recep- 
tion of  120  patients  ;  the  Royal  Orphan  Institution, 
established  in  1815  ;  the  Indigent-Sick  Society,  distri- 
buting annually  £160  ;  the  Medical  and  Surgical  Dis- 
pensary ;  the  Institutions  for  the  Lame  and  Blind  ;  the 
Seamen's  Friend  Society,  dispensing  yearly  £1500;  the 
Female  Society,  £190,  and  the  Clothing  Society,  dis- 
tributing £40.  These  and  various  other  benevolent 
institutions  collectively  dispense,  in  aid  of  the  distressed 
and  indigent,  nearly  £4000  annually,  exclusively  of 
numerous  bequests  by  charitable  individuals  for  similar 
purposes. 

There  are  still  some  remains  of  the  ancient  palace 
called  Whitehall,  the  occasional  residence  of  the  Scottish 
monarchs  previously  to  the  reign  of  James  VI.,  and 
subsequently  of  Charles  II.,  who  lodged  in  it  for  some 
time  before  the  battle  of  Worcester.  The  site  of  the 
Franciscan  convent  founded  by  Devorgilla,  mother  of 
John  Baliol,  and  which  was  destroyed  at  the  Reforma- 
tion, was,  together  with  the  adjacent  lands,  granted  by 


D  UND 


DU  ND 


Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  to  the  town  for  a  burial-place. 
In  clearing  some  ground  for  the  formation  of  a  new 
street  in  1831,  the  vestiges  of  an  ancient  mint,  supposed 
to  have  been  erected  by  Robert  Bruce,  were  discovered  ; 
and  the  smelting  furnace  was  found  nearly  entire.  At 
the  western  extremity  of  High-street,  is  an  ancient 
house  in  which  Anne,  Duchess  of  Buccleuch  and  Mon- 
mouth, was  born,  during  the  residence  of  her  parents 
here,  who  had  been  driven  from  the  castle  of  Dalkeith 
by  the  commissioners  of  Cromwell ;  it  was  also  inha- 
bited by  General  Monk  after  he  had  reduced  the  town. 
The  castle  of  Dudhope,  once  the  seat  of  the  Scrimgeours, 
hereditary  constables  of  Dundee,  has  been  converted 
into  barracks  for  infantry.  There  are  no  remains  of  the 
castle  of  Dundee,  which  occupied  the  summit  of  a  steep 
rock  still  called  Castle  Hill.  Among  the  distinguished 
characters  connected  with  the  town,  have  been,  Alexander 
Scrimgeour,  one  of  the  valiant  companions  of  Wallace, 
by  whom  he  was  made  constable  of  Dundee  Castle ;  Sir 
John  Scrimgeour,  afterwards  Viscount  Dudhope,  a  zealous 
adherent  of  Charles  I.,  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Mar- 
ston-Moor,  and  whose  son  was  created  Earl  of  Dundee ; 
the  celebrated  historian,  Hector  Boece ;  the  late  Admiral 
Duncan,  who  obtained  the  victory  over  the  Dutch  fleet 
off  Camperdown  in  17975  upon  which  he  was  created 
Viscount  Camperdown  ;  Sir  James  Ivory,  one  of  the  pro- 
fessors in  the  military  college  of  Sandhurst ;  and  the 
late  Rev.  Dr.  Small,  for  many  years  minister  of  the 
parish,  and  author  of  a  work  on  astronomy  called  Kepler's 
Discoveries. 

DUNDONALD,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kyle, 
county  of  Ayr,  5  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Kilmarnock  ;  con- 
taining, with  the  late  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Fullarton 
and  Troon,  67 16  inhabitants,  of  whom  345  are  in  the 
village  of  Dundonald.  This  place  derives  its  name 
from  the  situation  of  its  ancient  castle  on  the  summit 
of  a  hill  near  the  village.  Here  Robert  II.,  King  of 
Scotland,  and  the  first  of  the  Stuarts,  occasionally  re- 
sided till  his  decease  in  1390,  and  the  castle  was  fre- 
quently the  residence  also  of  many  of  his  successors, 
but  was,  with  the  lands  attached  to  it,  granted  by 
James  V.  to  a  descendant  of  the  Wallace  family,  by 
whom  it  was  sold  in  1638  to  Sir  William  Cochrane, 
ancestor  of  the  present  Earl  of  Dundonald.  The  lands 
in  1726  passed  to  the  Montgomerie  family,  who  are  still 
proprietors  ;  but  the  site  and  the  remains  of  the  ancient- 
castle,  from  which  his  lordship  takes  his  title,  are  re- 
served by  the  earl.  The  parish  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  river  Irvine,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Frith 
of  Clyde  ;  it  is  about  eight  miles  in  length,  and  from 
five  to  six  in  breadth,  comprising  11,000  acres,  of  which 
about  2500  are  waste,  and  the  greater  portion  of  the 
rest  in  culture.  The  surface  along  the  sea-coast  and 
the  banks  of  the  river  is  nearly  level,  with  some  gentle 
undulations  towards  the  centre,  where  it  rises  into  hills 
of  moderate  elevation,  of  which  the  highest,  called  the 
Clavin  hills,  do  not  exceed  400  feet  in  height,  command- 
ing, however,  from  their  summits  a  prospect  embracing 
fourteen  different  counties.  With  the  exception  of  the 
Irvine,  there  are  no  rivers  of  any  importance  in  the 
parish,  but  springs  of  excellent  water  are  found  in  great 
profusion. 

The  soil  embraces  almost  every  variety,  and  the  arable 
lands  are  under  excellent  cultivation  ;  the  crops  include 
oats,  barley,    potatoes,   and  turnips.     Wheat,    for   the 
320 


growth  of  which  the  soil  is  well  adapted,  is  raised  in 
large  quantities;  though,  from  the  moisture  of  the  cli- 
mate, and  the  consequent  lateness  of  the  harvest,  it  was 
not  long  ago  comparatively  but  little  cultivated.  The  sys- 
tem of  husbandry  is  good,  and  considerable  tracts  of  waste 
land  have  been  reclaimed  by  tile-draining,  first  intro- 
duced into  the  parish  by  the  Duke  of  Portland.  The 
farm-buildings  are  generally  commodious  and  substan- 
tial ;  the  lands  are  well  inclosed,  partly  with  hedge  rows 
and  partly  with  stone  dykes,  and  the  more  recent  im- 
provements in  the  construction  of  agricultural  imple- 
ments have  been  adopted.  Much  attention  is  paid  to 
the  management  of  the  dairy-farms,  and  large  quantities 
of  the  produce  are  sent  to  Ayr  and  Glasgow  ;  the  cattle 
are  all  of  the  Ayrshire  breed.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £23,496.  There  are  still  some 
remains  of  natural  wood,  consisting  of  birch,  hazel, 
and  mountain-ash,  but  none  of  the  trees  are  remark- 
able for  size :  the  plantations,  though  not  extensive, 
are  generally  in  a  thriving  state.  The  principal  sub- 
strata are  freestone  and  coal.  The  freestone  is  quarried 
at  Craiksland  and  Collennan  :  that  at  the  former  place, 
which  is  of  fine  texture  and  durable  quality,  and  may 
be  raised  in  masses  of  any  size,  is  sent  chiefly  to  Ireland, 
and  a  steam-engine  for  sawing  it  into  slabs  has  been 
erected  at  the  quarry.  The  coal  is  wrought  for  the 
supply  of  the  neighbourhood,  and  for  exportation,  at 
Shewalton,  and  also  at  Old  Rome,  on  the  lands  of  Fairlie. 
At  the  former  the  coal  occurs  in  two  seams,  of  which 
the  lower,  at  a  depjth  of  thirty-five  fathoms,  is  thirty-four 
inches,  and  the  upper  forty-three  inches  thick  ;  and 
at  the  latter  place  are  four  different  seams,  varying 
from  two  feet  eight  inches  to  six  feet  in  thickness. 
The  mansion-houses  are,  Auchan  House,  built  by  the 
Earl  of  Dundonald,  and  now  nearly  in  ruins,  and  the 
property  of  Lady  Mary  Montgomerie,  by  whose  servants 
it  is  chiefly  inhabited ;  and  Fullarton,  Fairlie,  Shewal- 
ton, Newfield,  Hillhouse,  and  Curreath,  which  are  all 
handsome  and  comparatively  modern  buildings.  The 
village  of  Dundonald  is  beautifully  situated  near  the 
remains  of  the  ancient  castle,  and  has  a  pleasingly 
rural  aspect.  Letters  were  formerly  delivered  here  by  a 
runner  from  the  Troon  office,  who  passed  daily  through 
the  village ;  but  Dundonald  has  now  a  post  of  its 
own  ;  and  facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  the 
turnpike-road  to  Dalmellington,  and  by  several  other 
roads  which  branch  off  in  various  directions.  A  mart  is 
held  in  May,  chiefly  remarkable  for  a  cattle-show.  The 
village  of  Shewalton,  on  the  bank  of  the  river  Irvine, 
contains  2 1 9,  and  that  of  Old  Rome,  on  the  same  river, 
to  the  east,  contains  257  inhabitants.  A  tram-road 
from  Kilmarnock  to  Troon,  constructed  by  the  Duke  of 
Portland  in  IS  10,  for  the  conveyance  of  coal  to  the  port, 
and  the  Glasgow  and  Ayr  railway  along  the  sea-coast, 
completed  in  1840,  both  pass  through  the  parish,  and 
afford  great  facilities. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Glas- 
gow and  Ayr.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £256,  with  a 
manse  and  glebe,  valued  together  at  about  £40  per 
annum  ;  patron,  Lady  Mary  Montgomerie.  The  church, 
erected  in  1803,  is  a  neat  structure  situated  in  the 
village,  and  containing  630  sittings.  Churches  have 
been  erected  at  Fullarton  and  Troon ;  and  there  is 
a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church. 


D  U  ND 


DUNF 


The  parochial  school  is  attended  by  about  eighty 
children;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £28.  18.,  with  a 
house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £40.  There  are 
schools  also  at  Fullarton  and  Troon,  and  various  Sab- 
bath schools  ;  and  a  parochial  library,  established  in 
1836,  and  now  containing  150  volumes,  is  supported  by 
subscription.  Dr.  James  McAdam,  a  native  of  the 
parish,  bequeathed  £1000,  of  which  he  appropriated  the 
interest  to  be  distributed  in  blankets  and  coal  to  the 
poor  ;  and  the  Misses  Campbell,  of  Curreath,  left  £90, 
to  be  distributed  annually  to  six  persons  not  receiving 
parochial  relief.  The  remains  of  the  ancient  castle  of 
Dundonald  consist  of  a  quadrangular  range  of  buildings, 
two  stories  in  height,  113  feet  in  length  and  forty  feet 
in  breadth,  and  in  a  greatly  dilapidated  condition  ;  on 
the  western  wall  are  the  arms  of  the  Stuarts,  much 
obliterated.  Previously  to  the  Reformation  it  contained 
a  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Ninian,  of  which  no  vestiges 
are  now  to  be  traced.  On  the  farm  of  Barassie  was 
found,  while  constructing  the  line  of  the  railway,  an 
urn  containing  calcined  bones,  and  which  appeared  to 
be  rather  of  British  than  Roman  character ;  and  on  the 
heights  above  the  farm  of  Harpercroft  are  two  ancient 
camps,  of  which  the  larger  is  defended  by  a  circular 
embankment  of  earth  and  stones,  inclosing  an  area  of 
ten  acres,  having  in  the  centre  a  similar  inclosure  of 
one  acre  in  extent.  The  construction  of  these  camps  is 
popularly  ascribed  to  the  Romans  ;  but  it  is  not  with 
certainty  ascertained  by  whom  they  were  formed. 

DUNDRENNAN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Rer- 
■wick,  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  4  miles  (E.  S.  E.) 
from  Kirkcudbright  ;  containing  202  inhabitants.  This 
place,  which  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  the  north-western  shore  of  Solway 
Frith,  is  celebrated  for  its  ancient  abbey,  founded  in  U42 
by  Fergus,  lord  of  Galloway,  for  monks  of  the  Cister- 
cian order  whom  he  brought  from  Rivaulx,  in  the  county 
of  York.  The  establishment,  of  which  Sylvanus  was 
the  first  abbot,  continued  to  flourish  under  his  suc- 
cessors till  the  Reformation  ;  and  after  its  dissolution 
in  1561,  its  revenues,  amounting  to  £500,  were,  upon 
the  death  of  the  last  abbot,  annexed  by  James  VI.  to 
his  royal  chapel  of  Stirling.  During  the  incumbency  of 
the  last  abbot  (Edward  Maxwell,  son  of  Lord  John 
Herries),  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  on  her  flight  from  the 
disastrous  battle  of  Langside,  arrived  at  this  place, 
where  she  spent  the  night  previous  to  her  embarkation 
for  England,  for  which  she  sailed  from  a  small  creek 
surrounded  by  precipitous  cliffs,  and  since  called  Port- 
Mary  in  commemoration  of  the  event.  The  village  has 
a  pleasingly  rural  appearance  ;  the  houses  are  neatly 
built,  and  ornamented  with  trees  of  ancient  growth,  and 
there  are  two  comfortable  inns  for  the  reception  of 
visiters.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  elegant  mansion  of  Dun- 
dreiinan,  the  seat  of  the  Maitland  family  ;  and  the  place 
derives  much  interest  from  the  venerable  ruins  of  the 
abbey,  and  the  beauty  and  variety  of  the  surrounding 
scenery. 

The  ruins  are  situated  on  a  gentle  acclivity  rising 
from  a  narrow  vale,  through  which  flows  the  streamlet 
called  Abbey  Burn,  and  consist  chiefly  of  parts  of  the  con- 
ventual church,  originally  a  stately  cruciform  structure 
in  the  early  English  style,  with  a  central  tower  200  feet 
in  height.  Several  of  the  monuments  are  still  remain- 
ing, though  in  a  greatly  dilapidated  condition.  Among 
Vol.  I. — 321 


these  is  the  tomb  of  Alan,  lord  of  Galloway,  who  was 
interred  in  the  church  in  1233,  and  whose  recumbent 
effigy  in  armour,  and  cross-legged,  is  sculptured  in  high 
relief,  but  much  mutilated  ;  and  the  tomb  of  one  of  the 
abbots  in  his  canonicals  is  in  tolerable  preservation, 
though  the  inscription  is  totally  obliterated.  For  the 
preservation  of  these  remains,  Mr.  Maitland  some  years 
since  presented  a  memorial  to  the  commissioners  of 
woods  and  forests,  proposing  to  relinquish  all  his  right 
of  property  in  the  abbey,  on  condition  of  its  receiving 
from  the  crown  protection  from  further  dilapidation. 
In  accordance  with  this  proposal,  the  remains  have  been 
secured  from  decay,  and,  with  the  surrounding  burial- 
ground,  inclosed  with  a  high  fence  of  stone.  The  pave- 
ments of  the  church  have  been  cleared  from  all  accu- 
mulations of  rubbish,  and  reduced  to  their  ancient  level; 
and  many  of  the  monuments,  and  of  the  beautifully 
clustered  columns  and  gracefully  pointed  arches,  have 
been  restored.  The  whole,  therefore,  now  exhibits  one 
of  the  best  preserved  and  most  interesting  relics  of 
monastic  architecture  in  the  kingdom. 

DUNDYVAN  and  NEW  DUNDYVAN,  villages,  in 
the  parish  of  Old  Monkland,  Middle  ward  of  the  county 
of  Lanark,  1|  mile  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Airdrie  ;  containing, 
the  one  12y8,  and  the  other  2202  inhabitants.  These 
are  two  among  numerous  villages  which  have  lately  and 
rapidly  sprung  up  in  connexion  with  the  extensive  coal- 
mines and  iron  and  other  works  of  this  district,  so  distin- 
guished for  its  mineral  wealth  and  manufacturing  import- 
ance. They  lie  on  the  high  road  from  Airdrie  to  Glasgow, 
and  are  the  seats  of  considerable  iron  establishments, 
which  employ  nearly  the  whole  of  the  male  population. 
The  ironstone  wrought  at  the  furnaces  here,  of  which  there 
are  several,  is  of  the  most  valuable  kind,  some  of  it 
yielding  from  thirty  to  forty  per  cent  of  iron,  and  is 
usually  denominated  the  "black  band,"  and  chiefly  pro- 
duced from  the  lands  of  Rochsilloch,  the  property  of 
Sir  William  Alexander.  About  a  mile  south-east  of 
Dundyvan  are  the  celebrated  Calder  iron-works,  and  at 
the  same  distance  westward  are.  the  Drumpellier  coal- 
mines ;  and  all  around,  pits  and  quarries  are  in  full 
operation. 

DUNFERMLINE,  a 
royal  burgh,  and  parish,  in 
the  district  of  Dunfermline, 
county  of  Fife;  including 
the  villages  of  Charlestown, 
Crossford,  Halbeath,  Lime- 
kilns, Mastertown,  Patiemuir, 
North  Queensferry,  and  part 
of  Crossgates;  and  containing 
20,217  inhabitants,  of  whom 
7S65  are  within  the  burgh, 
12  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Kirk- 
caldy, and  16  (N.  W.)  from 
Edinburgh.  This  place,  which  is  of  great  antiquity,  is 
supposed  to  have  derived  its  name,  signifying  in  the 
Gaelic  language  "the  castle  on  the  winding  stream,"  or 
"  the  watch-tower  upon  the  stream,"  from  the  erection 
of  a  castle  on  the  summit  of  a  peninsulated  eminence 
in  the  glen  of  Pittencrieff,  by  Malcolm  Canmore,  about 
the  year  1056.  Of  this  castle  only  some  small  frag- 
ments are  now  remaining ;  but  it  appears,  from  the 
traces  of  foundations,  to  have  been  a  quadrilateral 
structure,  about  sixty  feet  in  length,  and  fifty   feet  in 

2  T 


mm 

Burgh  Seal. 


D  U  N  F 


D  UN  F 


breadth,  of  great  strength,  and  having  an  elevation  of 
seventy  feet  above  the  level  of  the  rivulet  flowing  through 
the  glen.  Malcolm,  on  the  murder  of  his  father  Duncan 
by  the  usurper  Macbeth,  took  refuge  in  England,  where 
he  was  favourably  received  at  the  court  of  Edward  the 
Confessor,  till,  on  the  death  of  Macbeth,  slain  by  Macduff 
at  the  battle  of  Dunsinane,  he  ascended  the  throne  of 
his  ancestors.  On  the  conquest  of  England  by  the  Duke 
of  Normandy  in  1066,  Edgar  Atheling,  heir  to  the  crown 
of  England,  with  his  mother,  and  sisters  Margaret  and 
Catherine,  attended  by  a  numerous  retinue  of  Saxon 
nobles,  were,  on  their  voyage  to  Hungary,  driven  by 
tempestuous  weather  into  a  bay  in  the  north  of  the  Frith 
of  Forth,  which  has  since  retained  the  appellation  of  St. 
Margaret's  Hope.  Malcolm,  on  hearing  of  their  landing, 
visited  the  party,  and  conducted  them  in  person  to  his 
castle,  where  they  were  hospitably  entertained  ;  and  soon 
after,  Margaret,  with  whom,  during  his  residence  in 
England,  he  had  formed  a  contract  of  marriage,  became 
Queen  of  Scotland.  At  a  short  distance  to  the  south- 
east of  Malcolm's  castle,  a  more  sumptuous  palace  was 
subsequently  erected,  though  the  exact  date  is  unknown  ; 
but  of  this  once  magnificent  structure,  the  residence  for 
many  generations  of  the  Scottish  kings,  and  the  birth- 
place of  several  of  them,  only  a  comparatively  small 
portion  remains,  in  which  is  seen  the  chimney-place  of 
the  apartment  where  Charles  I.  was  born.  Adjoining 
the  palace  was  the  Queen's  House,  erected  for  her  pri- 
vate residence  by  Anne  of  Denmark,  queen  of  James  VI., 
to  whom  he  had  granted  on  the  morning  after  his  mar- 
riage the  lordship  of  Dunfermline.  This  mansion  was 
in  good  repair  for  many  years  after  the  palace  was  in 
ruins,  but  falling  into  neglect,  was  for  some  time  occu- 
pied as  a  school,  subsequently  as  a  woollen  factory,  and 
in  1797,  having  become  ruinous,  was  entirely  removed. 

A  priory  for  Benedictine  monks  was  founded  by  Mal- 
colm, which,  being  in  an  unfinished  state,  was,  after  his 
death  at  the  siege  of  Alnwick,  in  Northumberland,  com- 
pleted by  his  son  Alexander  I.,  and  dedicated  to  the 
Holy  Trinity  and  St.  Margaret,  King  Malcolm's  queen, 
whose  numerous  virtues  obtained  for  her  the  distinction 
of  canonization.  The  institution  was  governed  by  a 
prior  till  the  reign  of  David  I.,  who  raised  it  to  the 
dignity  of  a  mitred  abbey,  and  in  1124  placed  in  it  thir- 
teen additional  monks  from  Canterbury,  greatly  extended 
the  buildings,  and  endowed  it  with  ample  possessions  in 
various  parts  of  the  kingdom.  It  continued  to  flourish, 
and  became  one  of  the  most  important  and  richest  esta- 
blishments in  Scotland.  In  1291,  Edward  I.  of  England 
visited  Dunfermline,  where  he  summoned  the  Scottish 
nobility  to  do  homage  for  their  lands  as  vassals  to  his 
crown  :  in  1296,  he  made  a  tour  for  twenty- one  weeks 
through  different  parts  of  Scotland,  in  which  he  came  to 
this  town ;  and  on  his  return  to  England,  he  took  with 
him  the  inauguration  stone  from  the  abbey  of  Scone, 
which  he  deposited  in  the  church  of  Westminster,  in 
London.  In  1303,  Edward  visited  Dunfermline  on  his 
route  from  Kinross,  and  took  up  his  residence  in  the 
abbey,  where  he  was  joined  by  his  queen  and  a  party 
of  nobility,  and  remained  from  December  till  March. 
While  here  he  was  employed  in  receiving  the  submission 
of  such  of  the  Scottish  nobles  as  had  not  on  his  former 
visit  done  him  homage  for  their  possessions ;  and  on  his 
departure  for  England  his  soldiers  set  fire  to  the  abbey, 
which  was  reduced  to  little  more  than   a  heap  of  ruins, 


the  church  only,  and  a  few  cells  of  the  monks,  being 
spared.  In  this  abbey,  of  which  the  buildings  were  so 
extensive,  the  Scottish  nobility  were  accustomed  to 
hold  their  meetings,  during  the  wars  of  Bruce  and  Baliol, 
for  rescuing  their  country  from  the  English  yoke  ;  and 
to  this  circumstance  is  attributed  its  desolation  by  the 
forces  of  Edward. 

David  II.,  son  of  Robert  Bruce,  was  born  at  the 
palace  of  Dunfermline  on  the  4th  of  March,  1323  ;  and 
during  that  prince's  long  minority,  Edward  Baliol,  when 
contending  for  the  crown  of  Scotland,  in  1332,  after 
having  landed  his  army  at  Kinghorn,  came  to  this  place, 
where  he  found  a  seasonable  supply  of  arms  and  provi- 
sions laid  up  by  order  of  Regent  Randolph.  In  1335,  a 
parliament  was  held  here,  at  which  Sir  Andrew  Murray 
was  made  regent  of  the  kingdom  in  place  of  Randolph, 
deceased  ;  but,  having  gone  to  visit  his  estates  in  the 
north,  in  1338,  he  died  while  on  his  journey,  and,  after 
being  interred  in  the  chapel  of  Rosemarkie,  his  remains 
were  removed  to  this  town,  and  deposited  with  those  of 
Bruce  and  Randolph.  In  13S5,  part  of  a  large  body  of 
French  auxiliaries  who,  on  the  invitation  of  Robert  II., 
had  come  to  that  monarch's  assistance  against  the 
English,  were  quartered  at  this  place,  which  was  visited 
soon  afterwards  by  Richard  II.  of  England,  who,  having 
burnt  Edinburgh,  advanced  to  Dunfermline,  and  lodged 
in  the  abbey,  which,  upon  his  departure,  was  burnt  by 
the  English  army,  together  with  the  town.  In  1441, 
James,  son  of  Sir  Robert  Bruce  of  Clackmannan,  was 
consecrated  Bishop  of  Dunkeld  in  the  abbey  church 
here,  and  in  the  same  year  was  also  made  chancellor  of 
Scotland.  The  queen  of  James  IV.  made  a  short  stay 
at  Dunfermline  in  1512;  and  in  1515,  the  abbot  of 
Kelso  and  other  friends  of  Lord  Home  were  imprisoned 
in  the  town  by  order  of  the  Duke  of  Albany,  then 
regent.  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  visited  Dunfermline  in 
her  route  to  Dysart  and  St.  Andrew's,  in  1561  ;  and  in 
1581,  James  VI.  subscribed  the  covenant  at  this  place. 
Charles  I.,  afterwards  king  of  England,  was  born  in  the 
palace  on  the  19th  of  November,  1600;  and  in  1633, 
in  his  progress  through  Scotland,  he  passed  a  short  time 
at  Dunfermline,  on  which  occasion  he  created  Sir 
Robert  Ker  earl  of  Ancrum,  and  conferred  the  honour 
of  knighthood  on  several  persons.  In  the  year  1624, 
the  town  was  nearly  destroyed  by  an  accidental  fire. 
In  1650  Charles  II.  visited  the  town,  where  he  sub- 
scribed the  confession  of  faith  called  the  "  Dunfermline 
Declaration;"  and  in  the  following  year  a  battle  was 
fought  near  Pitreavie  House  between  the  forces  of  Crom- 
well and  the  royalist  army,  in  which  the  latter  sustained 
considerable  loss.  In  1715,  about  a  month  before  the 
battle  of  Sheriffmuir,  a  detachment  of  the  Pretender's 
army,  consisting  of  about  300  highlanders  and  eighty 
horse,  under  the  Marquess  of  Huntly,  was  surprised 
and  defeated,  with  the  loss  of  several  killed  and  many 
taken  prisoners,  by  the  forces  under  colonel,  after- 
wards Lord,  Cathcart. 

The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  on  an  eminence 
stretching  from  east  to  west,  and  gradually  rising  from 
the  south  to  an  elevation  of  356  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea ;  it  consists  of  one  principal  street,  intersected  at 
right  angles  by  several  smaller  streets  from  north  to 
south,  of  which  those  in  the  latter  direction  have  a  con- 
siderable declivity.  The  principal  street  was,  in  1770 
extended  towards  the  west  by  the  erection  of  a  bridge 


DUN  F 


DUNF 


across  the  glen  of  Pittencrieff,  above  which  the  pro- 
prietor, George  Chalmers,  Esq.,  raised  a  mound  whereon 
there  has  been  built,  in  a  line  with  the  High-street,  a 
handsome  range  of  houses  with  gardens  attached  to 
them,  called  Bridge-street.  The  houses  in  the  chief 
streets  are  all  substantial  and  well  built.  In  several 
parts  of  the  town  are  numerous  villas  and  many  private 
mansions  surrounded  with  pleasure-grounds,  which  give 
to  the  place  a  somewhat  rural  appearance;  and  the  tower 
and  spires  of  the  ancient  abbey  and  public  buildings, 
combining  with  other  features,  have  a  strikingly  interest- 
ing aspect.  Great  additions  to  the  town,  and  consider- 
able improvements,  have  been  recently  made  ;  the  abbey 
park  has  been  thrown  open  for  building,  and  many  hand- 
some houses  with  extensive  gardens  have  been  erected. 
The  streets  are  paved,  and  lighted  with  gas  by  a  com- 
pany established  in  1828,  who  erected  works  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  town  at  an  expense  of  nearly  £12,000; 
and  the  inhabitants  are  tolerably  supplied  with  water 
brought  from  springs  in  the  town  moor  into  a  capa- 
cious reservoir,  from  which  it  is  distributed  by  pipes. 
The  Dunfermline  library,  supported  by  a  proprietary  of 
shareholders,  has  a  collection  of  about  3000  volumes, 
and  the  Tradesmen's  and  Mechanics'  libraries,  united  in 
1S32,  contain  about  2000;  a  circulating  library  has 
been  established,  and  in  the  town-hall  is  a  public  news- 
room supplied  with  the  daily  journals  and  periodical 
publications.  The  Mechanics'  institution,  founded  in 
1S25,  still  retains  its  apparatus,  though  the  lectures 
have  been  discontinued ;  and  a  scientific  association 
was  established  in  1834.  The  Western  District  of  Fife 
Agricultural  Society  hold  their  meetings  here  in  July, 
for  the  distribution  of  premiums,  and  the  Horticultural, 
and  Pittencrieff  Horticultural  Societies  also  meet  annu- 
ally ;  there  is  likewise  an  ornithological  society  in  the 
town. 

The  staple  trade  is  the  linen  manufacture,  chiefly  of 
the  finer  kinds,  and  which,  by  a  regular  and  progressive 
series  of  improvements,  has  been  brought  to  the  highest 
state  of  perfection ;  the  principal  articles  are,  diapers, 
towelling,  napkins,  and  damasks  for  table-linen  of  every 
variety  of  pattern,  and  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of 
their  texture.  Toilet  napkins,  with  the  royal  arms  in 
the  centre,  were  made  here  for  his  late  majesty  William 
IV.;  and  in  1840,  toilet  cloths,  executed  according  to  a 
sketch  by  the  officers  of  the  Queen's  household,  and 
having  the  royal  arms,  with  the  initials  V.  R.,  and  a 
border  of  oak  and  laurel,  were  woven  by  the  same 
manufacturer  for  her  present  Majesty.  An  order,  like- 
wise, was  subsequently  received  from  the  lord  steward 
by  another  manufacturer,  for  damask  table-linen  of  the 
finest  quality,  decorated  in  a  suitable  manner.  The 
rapid  advance  in  this  manufacture  was  much  promoted 
by  rewards  offered  by  the  board  of  trade,  and  which, 
though  generally  discontinued,  are  still  sometimes 
granted  for  specimens  of  superior  elegance:  in  1837, 
one  firm  in  the  town  had  obtained,  in  the  course  of  a 
few  previous  years,  premiums  amounting  to  £516.  The 
finer  yarns  are  procured  chiefly  from  Leeds  and  Preston, 
in  England,  and  from  Belfast,  in  Ireland ;  but  there 
are  large  establishments  in  the  town  for  the  spinning 
of  yarn  for  the  weaving  of  coarser  goods,  which  are  sold 
partly  by  hawkers  in  different  parts  of  the  country. 
Coloured  table-covers  of  great  variety  of  pattern  have 
been  lately  made  to  a  very  considerable  extent ;  about 
323 


3000  persons  are  employed  in  the  various  looms,  and 
the  value  of  the  goods  manufactured  annually  ex- 
ceeds £350,000.  There  are  two  iron-foundries  in  the 
town,  and  a  third  at  Charlestown,  in  the  parish,  in 
which,  in  addition  to  the  usual  castings  of  iron,  are 
produced  some  of  brass.  The  manufacture  of  tobacco, 
for  which  there  are  two  establishments,  is  considerable. 
There  are  also  two  tanneries  and  currying-works,  three 
roperies,  a  soap-work,  and  a  candle  manufactory  ;  five 
breweries,  three  of  which  are  in  the  town  ;  four  dye- 
works,  a  saw-mill,  two  tile  and  brick  works,  and  various 
other  establishments  connected  with  the  trade  of  the 
town.  Branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  the  British 
Linen  Company,  the  Commercial  Bank,  and  the  Edin- 
burgh and  Leith  Bank  have  been  opened  here.  The 
market-days  are  Tuesday  and  Friday,  the  former  for 
corn,  which  is  numerously  attended,  and  the  latter  for 
eggs,  poultry,  butter,  and  provisions  :  fairs  are  held  for 
horses,  cattle,  and  general  merchandise,  on  the  third 
Tuesday  in  January,  March,  April,  June,  July,  Septem- 
ber, October,  and  November.  The  post-office  has  a 
good  delivery;  and  facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  excellent  turnpike-roads,  of  which  more  than  thirty 
miles  traverse  the  parish,  and  by  railroads,  from  the 
collieries  and  lime-works,  to  Charlestown.  A  railway, 
also,  has  been  constructed  from  the  lower  end  of  the 
town,  and  communicates  with  the  Elgin  railroad.  Nu- 
merous steam-boats  ply  in  the  Frith  of  Forth,  for  which 
a  pier  has  been  formed  at  Charlestown  ;  there  are  like- 
wise harbours  at  Limekilns  and  Brucehaven.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  entire  parish  is  £53,515,  of 
which  £17,532  are  returned  for  the  burgh. 

The  burgh  appears  to  have  arisen  gradually  under 
the  abbots  of  the  monastery,  from  whom  it  derived  cer- 
tain privileges  and  immunities,  which  it  continued  to 
hold  for  nearly  two  centuries,  till  it  was  erected  into  a 
royal  burgh  by  charter  of  James  VI.  in  1588,  ratifying 
all  former  grants.  The  government,  under  this  charter, 
is  vested  in  a  provost,  two  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild, 
treasurer,  chamberlain,  and  a  council  of  sixteen,  by 
whom  all  the  other  officers  of  the  burgh  are  appointed. 
There  are  eight  incorporated  trades,  viz.,  the  smiths, 
weavers,  wrights,  tailors,  shoemakers,  bakers,  masons, 
and  butchers,  all  of  whom,  except  the  weavers,  have  ex- 
clusive privileges ;  the  fraternity  of  guildry  is  very 
ancient,  and  possesses  property  of  the  yearly  value  of 
about  £300.  The  jurisdiction  of  the  magistrates  ex- 
tends over  the  whole  of  the  royalty,  and  the  provost  is 
ex- officio  a  justice  of  the  peace  for  the  county  of  Fife  ;  the 
magistrates  hold  the  ordinary  bailie-court  and  the  nine- 
merks'  court  for  the  recovery  of  debts  not  exceeding 
the  sum  of  ten  shillings.  The  number  of  cases  in 
the  latter  court  has  very  much  decreased  since  the 
institution  of  the  sheriff's  court  for  small  debts ;  and 
the  criminal  jurisdiction  is  confined  to  misdemeanours. 
The  police  is  under  the  direction  of  commissioners  ap- 
pointed by  act  of  parliament  in  1811.  The  burgh  is 
associated  with  those  of  Stirling,  Culross,  Inverkeithing, 
and  Queensferry,  in  returning  a  member  to  the  imperial 
parliament;  the  number  of  £10  householders  within 
the  burgh  proper  is  397,  and  of  those  under  that  rent, 
but  above  £5,  432.  The  tolbooth,  or  Toicn  House,  was 
built  in  1771,  and  two  upper  stories  were  added  to 
it  in  1792  ;  it  is  a  neat  plain  edifice,  with  a  square 
tower   100   feet  in  height,  and   several    carved   stones 

2  T  2 


D  U  N  F 


DUNF 


which  formed  part  of  the  ancient  cross,  now  removed, 
have  been  inserted  in  the  front  wall  of  the  building. 
The  first-floor  contains  the  council-room  and  the  sheriff's 
court ;  and  above  is  the  town-hall,  used  also  as  an  ex- 
change reading-room,  in  which  are  portraits  of  Vice- 
Admiral  Sir  Andrew  Mitchell,  George  Chalmers,  Esq., 
and  Provost  Low,  with  busts  of  the  late  William  Pitt  and 
Lord  Melville.  The  third  story  was  used  as  the  gaol 
previously  to  the  erection  of  a  more  commodious  build- 
ing on  the  town-green.  The  Guildhall,  or  Spire  hotel, 
was  erected  by  the  fraternity  of  guildry  for  the  holding 
of  their  general  meetings,  and  also  for  those  of  the 
county,  but  was  never  completed  for  that  purpose,  and 
in  1S20  it  became  the  property  of  a  few  individuals  who 
converted  it  into  an  hotel.  It  is  a  handsome  building 
with  a  spire  132  feet  high,  from  which  it  takes  its  name, 
and  contains,  in  addition  to  its  arrangements  as  an 
hotel,  a  spacious  hall  fifty-two  feet  long,  thirty-five  feet 
wide,  and  twenty-one  feet  high,  which  is  appropriated 
to  various  public  purposes.  The  new  Gaol  was  built  at 
an  expense  of  £2070  ;  it  is  three  stories  high,  and  has 
eighteen  cells,  two  apartments  for  debtors,  and  accom- 
modation for  the  gaoler. 

The  parish,  which  is  situated  in  the  western  part  of  the 
county,  is  of  irregular  form,  about  eight  miles  in  average 
length,  and  five  in  average  breadth,  comprising  23,040 
acres,  of  which  13,391  are  arable,  about  3740  not  ara- 
ble, 1135  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder 
sites  of  buildings,  water,  and  waste.  The  surface  is  greatly 
diversified  with  bold  undulations,  rising  in  some  parts 
into  hills  of  considerable  elevation,  of  which  the  principal 
are  Beath  and  Craigluscar,  the  former  clothed  with  ver- 
dure to  its  summit,  and  commanding  an  extensive  pros- 
pect. The  coast,  reaching  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
along  the  Forth,  is  partly  flat  and  partly  high  and  rocky. 
The  chief  streams  that  intersect  the  parish  are  the  Tower 
burn  and  the  Baldridge  burn,  both  tributaries  of  the 
Lyne,  which,  after  these  accessions,  becomes  of  consider- 
able size,  and  falls  into  the  Frith  at  Charlestown.  In 
the  northern  part  of  the  parish  are  several  lakes,  of 
which  the  principal  are,  the  Town  loch,  about  a  mile  to 
the  north-east  of  the  burgh,  and  one  mile  in  circum- 
ference ;  Loch  End,  two  miles  north  of  the  town,  for- 
merly of  equal  extent,  but  now  much  diminished  ;  Dun- 
duff,  a  small  sheet  of  water,  three  miles  north  of  the 
town,  and  abounding  with  trout,  perch,  and  pike ;  and 
Loch  Fitly,  two  miles  north-east  of  the  town,  one  mile  in 
length,  and  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  containing  pike, 
perch,  and  eels.  Loch  Gloe,  or  the  White  loch,  in  the 
Cleish  hills,  two  miles  in  circumference,  and  Black  loch', 
a  little  to  the  north-west  of  Loch  Gloe,  are  partly  in  the 
parish  of  Cleish,  and  both  abound  with  pike,  perch,  and 
trout.  The  soil  is  generally  fertile,  and  the  system  of 
agriculture  in  a  highly  improved  state ;  the  crops  are, 
oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  peas  and 
beans,  with  the  various  grasses ;  and  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  land  is  cultivated  as  orchards  and  gardens.  The 
farm-buildings  are  substantial  and  commodiously  ar- 
ranged ;  the  lands  are  well  inclosed,  and  much  waste 
has  been  improved  by  draining,  and  brought  into  profit- 
able cultivation.  The  cattle  are  chiefly  of  the  Fifeshire 
black  breed,  with  some  of  the  Teeswater  on  the  dairy- 
farms,  of  the  former  about  1500,  and  of  the  latter  500  ; 
few  sheep  are  reared,  but  nearly  1400  are  fed  upon  the 
pastures,  and  there  is  a  moderate  number  of  swine. 
324 


The  principal  substrata  are,  coal  and  limestone, 
which  are  extensively  raised,  freestone,  and  greenstone ; 
the  rocks  are  generally  of  the  trap  formation,  and  in 
some  parts  display  fine  specimens  of  columnar  basalt. 
The  coalfields  are  very  extensive,  and  have  been  wrought 
from  a  remote  period,  first  by  the  abbot  of  Dunferm- 
line, to  whom  William  de  Oberwill,  proprietor  of  Pitten- 
crieff,  in  1291  granted  the  privilege  of  working  a  pit 
on  part  of  his  lands.  It  is,  however,  chiefly  since  the 
year  1771  that  they  have  been  wrought  to  any  great 
extent,  and  it  is  calculated  that  there  are  still  3000 
acres  unwrought  in  the  several  fields  in  the  parish.  The 
coal,  which  is  of  the  usual  varieties,  and  generally  of 
good  quality,  occurs  in  seams  from  a  few  inches  to 
eight  feet  in  thickness,  at  depths  of  from  fifteen  to  105 
fathoms  below  the  surface.  The  average  quantity  raised 
annually  is  120,000  tons,  which  are  conveyed  by  rail- 
roads from  the  pits  to  the  harbours  of  Charlestown, 
in  this  parish,  and  of  Inverkeithing,  in  the  parish 
adjoining,  for  exportation  ;  seventeen  steam-engines  are 
employed,  varying  from  twelve  to  120  horse  power, 
and  2910  persons,  of  whom  1180  are  engaged  in  work- 
ing the  mines.  The  most  extensive  quarries  of  limestone 
are  those  on  the  lands  of  Broomhall ;  the  stone  occurs 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  shore,  in  beds  from 
twenty  to  fifty  feet  in  thickness,  containing  a  great 
variety  of  fossil  remains,  and  the  quantity  annually 
raised  is  about  15,000  tons  of  stone,  and  about  400,000 
bushels  of  shells.  The  stone  is  conveyed  from  the 
quarries  by  a  railroad  to  Charlestown,  where  it  is  burnt ; 
the  rough  stone  is  sent  principally  to  Stirling,  and  the 
shells  to  Dundee  and  the  north.  There  are  also  quar- 
ries at  Roscobie  and  Lathalmond,  the  produce  of  which 
is  chiefly  sold  in  the  upper  lands  of  the  parish ;  and 
others  on  a  smaller  scale  are  worked  at  Sunnybank 
and  Craigluscar.  The  parish  likewise  contains  several 
quarries  of  freestone  and  trap ;  ironstone  occurs  in 
the  Elgin  coalfield,  and  was  formerly  wrought,  and 
pyrites  of  iron  and  of  copper  have  been  found.  The 
remains  of  old  timber  are  not  very  extensive  ;  the  plan- 
tations consist  of  oak,  beech,  elm,  plane,  ash,  willow, 
larch,  and  Scotch  fir.  Broomhall  House,  the  pleasant 
and  retired  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin,  is  a  handsome 
mansion,  beautifully  situated  on  an  eminence  overlook- 
ing the  village  of  Limekilns,  and  surrounded  by  undu- 
lated grounds  richly  wooded.  The  house  has  a  valuable 
collection  of  paintings;  and  here  are  preserved  the 
sword  and  helmet  of  King  Robert  Bruce,  given  to  the 
late  earl  by  Mrs.  Bruce  of  Clackmannan,  and  also  the 
nuptial  bed  of  Anne  of  Denmark,  queen  of  James  VI., 
which  was  for  some  years  in  the  possession  of  an  inn- 
keeper in  the  town,  who,  a  short  time  before  her  death, 
presented  it  to  the  earl.  Pitliver  House,  Keavil,  and 
Pitfirrane  are  in  the  vicinity,  but  undistinguished  by 
any  peculiarity  of  features  ;  Pittencrieff  House  was  built 
in  1610,  by  Sir  Alexander  Clerk  of  Edinburgh,  whose 
armorial  bearings  are  over  the  doorway ;  and  Logie  is  a 
modern  house,  in  which  is  preserved  a  cabinet,  of  richly- 
carved  walnut,  formerly  belonging  to  Anne  of  Denmark. 
Pitreavie  House  was  the  ancient  mansion  of  the  Ward- 
law  family,  and  Balmulc  also  belonged  to  them  :  the 
mansion  of  the  Hill,  for  many  ages  the  residence  of  the 
Mitchells,  is  now  occupied  in  several  tenements. 

The  ecclesiastical   affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Dunfermline  and  synod  of 


D  U  N  F 


D  UN  F 


Fife ;  patron,  the  Crown.  There  are  two  ministers, 
each  having  a  stipend  of  £282  ;  the  minister  of  the 
first  charge  has  also  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£34  per  annum,  but  to  the  second  charge  there  is 
attached  neither  manse  nor  glebe.  The  principal  of  the 
two  incumbencies  is  filled  by  the  Rev.  Peter  Chalmers, 
A.  M.,  author  of  the  highly  valuable  Historical  and  Sta- 
tistical Account  of  Dunfermline,  published  in  1844,  and 
whose  accurate  description  of  the  Dunfermline  coalfield, 
reprinted  in  that  work,  was  honoured  with  one  of  the 
premiums  of  the  Highland  and  Agricultural  Society  of 
Scotland.  The  church,  once  a  portion  of  the  ancient 
abbey,  and  but  ill  adapted  to  its  purpose,  was  rebuilt 
in  1821  to  the  east  of  the  former  nave,  which  is  now 
its  western  approach.  It  is  an  elegant  cruciform  struc- 
ture in  the  later  English  style,  with  a  square  embattled 
tower  rising  from  the  centre  to  the  height  of  100  feet, 
and  crowned  with  pinnacles :  the  parapet  is  pierced 
with  openings  representing  the  letters  of  the  legend 
"  King  Robert  the  Bruce,"  whose  tomb  lies  immedi- 
ately beneath.  The  interior  is  finely  arranged  :  the 
nave  is  separated  from  the  aisles  by  handsome  clus- 
tered columns  with  decorated  capitals,  surmounted  by 
gracefully-pointed  arches  supporting  the  groined  roof, 
which  is  ornamented  with  shields  at  the  intersections  of 
the  ribs.  This  part  of  the  church  is  lighted  by  a  range 
of  elegant  clerestory  windows,  enriched  with  tracery ; 
the  east  window  is  of  large  dimensions  and  of  beautiful 
design,  and  the  aisles  and  transepts  are  lighted  by  win- 
dows of  corresponding  character.  Immediately  under 
the  tower  is  the  pulpit,  in  front  of  the  slabs  covering 
the  tomb  of  Bruce,  near  which  it  is  intended  to  raise 
an  appropriate  monument.  The  church  contains  1400 
available  sittings,  and  was  completed  at  an  expense 
of  £11,000. 

A  church  dedicated  to  St.  Andrew  was  built  in  1S33, 
to  replace  an  old  chapel  of  ease  which  had  become  dila- 
pidated ;  and  in  1835  a  district  of  the  parish,  about 
half  a  mile  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth, 
containing  a  population  of  3000,  was  assigned  to  it  by  the 
General  Assembly,  and  for  a  short  time  formed  a  quoad 
sacra  parish.  It  is  a  neat  edifice  containing  797  sittings, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  £1560,  partly  by  subscription  :  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £120,  derived  from  the  seat- rents 
and  collections,  with  a  house  and  garden.  An  exten- 
sion church,  also,  was  erected  at  the  east  end  of  Golf- 
drum,  in  1840,  at  an  expense  of  £1673.-  of  which  £1002 
were  raised  by  subscription;  and  a  district  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, with  a  population  of  about  3000,  was  for- 
merly attached  to  it :  the  edifice  contains  800  sittings, 
and  the  minister  has  a  stipend  partly  secured  on  bond, 
and  derived  from  seat-rents  and  collections.  There  was 
till  1S43  a  quoad  sacra  church  in  Canmore-street ; 
but  on  the  induction  of  its  minister  to  the  parish  of 
Thurso,  the  congregation  dispersed,  and  a  Free  church 
was  built  on  its  site  in  1S44.  The  parish  likewise  con- 
tains several  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
United  Associate  Synod,  one  for  the  Relief  Congregation, 
which  was  the  first  established  in  Scotland,  one  each 
for  Baptists  and  Independents,  and  an  Episcopalian 
chapel. 

The  burgh  grammar  school  is  of  uncertain  founda- 
tion, though  said  to  have  been  originally  dependent  on 
the  monastery  :  Anne  of  Denmark,  queen  of  James  VI., 
granted  to  the  town  council  £2000  Scotch  for  its  sup- 
325 


port,  in  1610.  The  buildings  consist  of  two  class-rooms, 
and  a  good  dwelling-house  for  the  rector,  who  has  a 
small  salary  in  addition  to  the  fees;  there  is  also 
a  trifling  bequest  for  an  usher,  but  none  is  appointed, 
the  rector  selecting  and  paying  his  own  assistant. 
The  school  under  the  patronage  of  the  Fraternity 
of  Guild,  and  for  which  an  appropriate  building 
was  erected  in  1816,  at  their  expense,  contains  two 
rooms,  one  for  English  reading,  grammar,  and  geo- 
graphy, and  the  other  for  writing,  arithmetic,  mathe- 
matics, and  the  classics  ;  it  is  superintended  by  two  mas- 
ters, each  of  whom  has  a  dwelling-house  and  garden 
rent  free,  in  addition  to  the  fees.  About  200  children 
attend  a  school  at  Priory  Lane,  in  which  formerly  fifty 
children  were  taught  gratuitously  from  the  proceeds  of 
£1000  bequeathed  by  Adam  Rolland,  Esq.,  of  Gask, 
and  now  lost ;  it  is  supported  chiefly  by  very  moderate 
fees.  There  is  also  a  school  at  Golfdrum,  opened  in 
1842,  in  which  about  forty  children  are  instructed  from 
the  proceeds  of  a  bequest  by  the  Rev.  Allan  Mc  Lean, 
minister  of  the  parish.  Infant  schools,  Sunday  schools, 
and  others,  of  which  some  have  small  endowments, 
together  afford  instruction  to  nearly  3000  children  ;  and 
there  are  also  numerous  friendly  societies,  and  insti- 
tutions for  humane  and  charitable  purposes. 

The  ancient  monastery  continued  till  the  Reforma- 
tion, when  its  revenue  was  estimated  at  £2513  Scots; 
the  last  abbot  was  George  Dury,  who  died  in  1561,  when 
Robert  Pitcairn,  secretary  of  state  to  James  VI.,  was 
appointed  commendator,  after  which  the  abbacy  was 
erected  into  a  temporal  lordship.  Of  this  once  mag- 
nificent structure  the  principal  remains  are,  the  west- 
ern portion  of  the  abbey  church,  which  is  still  entire, 
and  presents  a  noble  specimen  of  the  later  Norman 
style,  with  lofty  massive  columns  and  circular  arches, 
and  a  timber-frame  roof;  the  south  wall  of  the  roof- 
less refectory,  in  which  is  a  range  of  nine  lofty  win- 
dows ;  the  western  gable  of  the  refectory,  with  a  hand- 
some large  window  of  seven  lights,  enriched  with 
flowing  tracery;  and  the  two  towers  at  the  entrance, 
of  which  one,  north  of  the  gable,  aud  crowned  with  a 
low  pyramidal  spire,  is  entire,  and  the  other,  south-west 
of  the  gable,  and  under  which  is  a  spacious  gateway, 
is  partly  a  ruin.  The  great  western  doorway  of  the 
church,  of  receding  arches  enriched  with  zigzag  mould- 
ings, resting  on  a  series  of  massive  columns  with 
flowered  capitals,  is  a  beautiful  specimen  of  the  later 
Norman  style  ;  and  the  north  porch,  though  externally 
of  plainer  character,  combines  in  the  interior  numerous 
minutely  elegant  details.  In  the  abbey  of  Dunferm- 
line were  interred  the  remains  of  Malcolm  Canmore 
and  his  queen,  Margaret ;  his  sons,  Edward,  Edgar, 
and  Alexander  I. ;  David  I.  ;  Malcolm  IV.  ;  Alexander 
III.  and  his  queen,  Margaret ;  Robert  the  Bruce  and 
his  queen,  Elizabeth  ;  the  queen  of  Robert  III. ;  and 
many  of  the  ancient  nobility  of  Scotland.  In  removing 
that  portion  of  the  abbey  on  the  site  of  which  the  new 
church  is  erected,  several  very  large  slabs  were  dug  up, 
supposed  to  indicate  the  royal  sepulchres ;  and  on 
taking  away  these  stones,  in  1S19,  among  various  other 
relics  of  the  ancient  kings,  was  found  the  skeleton  of 
Robert  Bruce,  encased  in  two  coverings  of  thin  sheet 
lead,  round  which  was  wrapped  a  shroud  of  cloth  of 
gold,  the  whole  inclosed  in  a  strong  coffin  of  oak  which 
had  mouldered  into  dust.    After  due  examination,  and  a 


D  UNI 


D  UN  I 


careful  and  scrutinizing  investigation  of  the  minutest 
circumstances,  which  fully  proved  the  identity  of  the 
body,  the  bones  were  replaced  in  their  natural  position, 
and,  being  wrapped  in  the  original  covering  of  lead, 
and  deposited  in  a  leaden  coffin  into  which  melted  pitch 
was  poured,  were  then  reinterred  in  the  very  spot 
in  which  they  had  been  found,  in  the  "choir  of  the 
ancient  abbey,  and  immediately  under  the  tower  of  the 
present  church.  On  the  lid  of  the  coffin  is  the  inscrip- 
tion, in  raised  letters,  King  Robert  Bruce,  under  which 
are  the  dates  1329  and  1819.  Upon  the  south-east 
side  of  the  ravine,  north  of  the  tower  of  Canmore,  is  the 
cave  of  St.  Margaret,  to  which  that  queen  was  in  the 
habit  of  retiring  for  private  devotions  ;  it  is  an  excava- 
tion in  the  rock,  about  twelve  feet  long  and  eight  feet 
wide,  and  though  of  natural  formation  appears  to  have 
been  adapted  by  art  for  that  purpose.  There  are  still 
some  remains  of  the  ancient  Palace,  consisting  chiefly 
of  the  south-west  wall  and  part  of  the  eastern  end  of 
the  building.  The  wall,  which  overlooks  the  glen,  is 
205  feet  in  length,  sixty  feet  in  height,  and  supported 
by  buttresses  ;  and  in  the  ceiling  of  an  oriel  window 
near  the  south-eastern  extremity,  is  a  sculpture  in  bass- 
relief  of  the  Annunciation,  which  was  discovered  during 
some  repairs  in  1812.  At  the  south-eastern  angle  of 
the  wall,  a  flight  of  steps  leads  down  to  a  vaulted  apart- 
ment called  the  Magazine  from  its  having  been  used  by 
the  military,  in  the  rebellion  of  1745,  as  a  store-room 
for  their  ammunition.  There  are  remains  of  numerous 
chapels  in  the  parish ;  and  traces  of  the  ancient  walls 
surrounding  the  town,  and  vestiges  of  the  gates,  may 
also  still  be  discovered.  Dunfermline  gives  the  title  of 
Baron  to  the  family  of  Abercromby. 

DUNINO,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  St.  Andrew's, 
county  of  Fife,  4  miles  (S.  E.)  from  St.  Andrew's ; 
containing,  with  the  district  of  Kingsmuir,  471  inhabit- 
ants. This  place  derives  its  name,  occasionally  cor- 
rupted into  Denino,  and  signifying  in  the  Gaelic  lan- 
guage "  the  hill  of  young  women,"  from  the  establishment 
of  a  nunnery  at  an  early  period  on  an  eminence  about 
300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  of  which  the 
remains,  consisting  chiefly  of  the  foundation,  were  re- 
moved in  1815.  The  parish,  including  the  lands  of 
Kingsmuir,  which  on  very  doubtful  authority  have 
been  claimed  by  the  parish  of  Crail,  is  about  three  miles 
in  length,  and  nearly  of  equal  breadth,  comprising  3275 
acres,  of  which  2880  are  arable,  270  woodland  and 
plantations,  and  the  remainder  waste.  The  surface  is 
generally  level,  but  the  scenery  is  somewhat  enlivened 
by  the  course  of  three  streamlets,  in  which  are  found 
excellent  trout,  and  which,  uniting  their  waters,  form 
the  burn  of  Kenly,  flowing  eastward  into  the  German 
Ocean.  The  soil  is  mostly  fertile,  producing  good  crops 
of  wheat,  oats,  barley,  peas,  beans,  potatoes,  and  turnips, 
with  the  various  grasses ;  and  the  pastures  are  luxuri- 
antly rich.  The  system  of  husbandry  is  advanced ; 
the  lands  have  been  drained,  and  inclosed  with  fences  of 
stone ;  the  farm-houses  are  well  built,  and  roofed  with 
slate ;  and  on  many  of  the  farms  are  threshing-mills  of 
the  most  approved  construction.  The  cattle  are  gene- 
rally of  the  Fifeshire  black  breed,  with  a  few  of  the 
Ayrshire  ;  the  sheep  are  the  Linton  or  Northumberland, 
and  considerable  numbers  of  swine  are  also  fed  on  the 
several  farms.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £2965. 
326 


The  plantations  on  the  banks  of  one  of  the  rivulets 
contain  a  great  variety  of  hard-wood  trees,  and  those 
in  other  parts  consist  of  larch  and  Scotch  fir,  all 
in  a  very  flourishing  state.  Though  Dunino  is  situated 
on  the  great  coal  basin  of  Scotland,  it  has  been  found 
more  profitable  to  obtain  that  fuel  from  St.  Andrew's 
or  Anstruther  than  to  work  it.  The  rocks  in  the  parish 
are  of  white  sandstone,  of  fine  texture,  and  admirable 
quality  for  building  ;  red  sandstone  is  found  in  regular 
strata,  and  limestone  forms  the  bed  of  a  burn  ;  dis- 
integrated trap,  intersected  with  veins  of  felspar,  occurs 
in  one  place,  and  ironstone  has  been  found  in  considerable 
quantities.  Fairs  are  held  at  Kingsmuir  in  May  and . 
October;  there  are  several  post-offices  within  less  than 
five  miles  of  the  church,  and  facilities  of  communica- 
tion with  St.  Andrew's,  Anstruther,  Cupar,  and  other 
towns  are  afforded  by  good  turnpike-roads.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
presbytery  of  St.  Andrew's  and  synod  of  Fife.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £198.  16.,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £28  per  annum  ;  patrons,  the  Principal 
and  Professors  of  the  United  College  of  St.  Andrew's. 
The  church  is  a  handsome  structure  erected  in  1S26, 
and  contains  224  sittings.  The  parochial  school  affords 
instruction  to  about  forty  children  ;  the  master's  salary 
is  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average 
£16.  There  were  until  within  the  last  few  years  some 
ruins  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Draffan,  supposed  to  be 
of  Danish  origin,  and  also  of  that  of  Stravithy ;  and 
there  are  still  remains  of  the  castle  of  Pittairthy,  in  the 
south  of  the  parish,  commanding  an  extensive  view  of 
the  sea.  The  eastern,  or  more  modern,  portion  of  this 
building  has  the  date  1653,  and  is  supposed  to  have 
been  built  by  Sir  William  Bruce  of  Kinross  ;  though 
unroofed,  the  walls  are  in  good  preservation.  Near  the 
garden  of  the  manse  are  some  remains  of  a  Druidical 
circle  ;  and  about  a  mile  to  the  west  is  a  farm  called 
Pittan-Druidh,  or  the  grave  of  the  Druids.  Some  cop- 
per coins  of  Charles  I.  and  II.,  and  of  William  and 
Mary,  were  recently  found  in  a  grave  in  the  churchyard  : 
two  coins  of  Philip  II.  of  Spain  were  also  dug  up  in  the 
parish,  one  of  gold,  and  the  other  of  silver,  supposed  to 
have  been  found  in  the  wreck  of  a  vessel  belonging  to 
the  Spanish  armada  ;  and  in  1836,  an  urn  containing 
ashes  was  ploughed  up  in  a  field  on  the  lands  of  Bal- 
caithly.  Among  the  most  distinguished  characters 
connected  with  the  parish,  were,  John  Fordun,  author 
of  the  Scoto-chronicon  ;  John  Winram,  sub-prior  of  St. 
Andrew's  ;  and  the  Rev.  James  Wood,  who,  previously 
to  his  becoming  minister  of  St.  Andrew's,  was  one  of 
the  commissioners  that  brought  Charles  II.  from  the 
continent  at  the  Restoration.  Sir  Robert  Ayton,  author 
of  the  celebrated  poems,  was  a  native  of  Dunino. 

DUNIPACE,  a  parish,  ecclesiastically  united  to  the 
parish  of  Larbert,  county  of  Stirling,  4  miles 
(W.  by  N.)  from  Falkirk  ;  containing,  with  the  villages 
of  Herbertshire,  Denovan,  and  Torwood,  1578  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  562  are  in  the  rural  districts.  This 
place,  of  which  the  name,  of  Celtic  origin,  is  derived 
from  two  artificial  mounds,  by  some  writers  supposed  to 
signify  "  the  Hills  of  Peace,"  and  by  others,  with  greater 
probability,  "  the  Hills  of  Death,"  is  of  remote  antiquity, 
and  has  been  the  scene  of  numerous  important  events, 
of  which  the  last  was  the  signature,  on  one  of  these 
hills,  of  a  treaty  of  peace  by  Edward  I.  of  England  in 


D  UNI 


DUNK 


1301.  Dunipace  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  river 
Carron,  and  is  of  triangular  form,  comprising  about 
5800  acres,  of  which  4S00  are  arable,  630  woodland 
and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  moor,  moss,  and 
waste.  The  surface  towards  the  west  rises  to  an  eleva- 
tion of  600  feet  above  the  Forth ;  towards  the  east  it 
terminates  in  the  Carse  of  Stirling ;  and  in  addition  to 
the  artificial  mounds  from  which  the  parish  takes  its 
name,  and  which  are  about  sixty  feet  in  height,  was 
formerly  another,  about  two  miles  to  the  west,  having 
an  elevation  of  forty  feet,  but  which  has  been  entirely 
removed  within  the  last  few  years.  The  soil  is  gene- 
rally light  and  dry,  with  some  tracts  of  clay ;  the  crops 
are,  wheat,  which  has  been  lately  introduced  and  grows 
well,  barley,  oats,  turnips,  and  potatoes ;  and  a  large 
proportion  of  the  surface  is  in  pasture.  The  cattle  are 
mostly  of  small  size,  as  best  adapted  to  the  land,  whether 
for  feeding  or  for  the  dairy ;  the  farms  are  of  mode- 
rate extent,  and  under  good  management.  A  farmers' 
society  was  established  in  1839,  for  the  encouragement 
of  agriculture  and  the  improvement  of  the  breed  of 
cattle ;  and  a  ploughing-match  and  a  cattle-show  are 
held  annually,  when  prizes  are  awarded  to  the  suc- 
cessful competitors.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £7594. 

The  plantations  are  generally  thriving  j  and  there  are 
considerable  remains  of  the  ancient  forest  of  Torwood, 
■where,  till  within  the  last  thirty  years,  was  a  stately 
oak,  in  the  hollow  trunk  of  which,  twelve  feet  in  dia- 
meter, the  celebrated  Wallace  and  his  companions  occa- 
sionally held  meetings,  to  concert  measures  for  rescuing 
their  country  from  the  tyranny  of  Edward  I.  of  England. 
Herbertshire  Castle,  a  very  ancient  structure  of  unknown 
date,  supposed  to  have  been  originally  a  royal  hunting- 
seat,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Carron,  in  an  extensive  demesne,  richly  wooded,  and 
tastefully  laid  out  in  walks  commanding  much  pic- 
turesque scenery.  Dunipace  House,  a  handsome  modern 
mansion,  is  finely  situated  near  the  site  of  the  old 
church  ;  and  Quarter  House,  also  a  good  residence,  is 
sheltered  by  thriving  plantations.  Carbrook  House  is 
romantically  situated  within  a  short  distance  of  Torwood 
Castle,  from  the  woods  of  which  it  derives  much  addi- 
tional beauty  to  its  scenery.  Facility  of  communication 
with  Falkirk  and  other  towns  in  the  vicinity  is  afforded 
by  excellent  roads,  and  by  a  bridge  of  three  arches 
erected  in  1S2S,  to  replace  one  of  inconvenient  con- 
struction which  had  become  insecure  from  its  antiquity  ; 
and  a  handsome  bridge  leading  to  Dunipace  House  was 
built  over  the  river  Carron,  a  little  below  the  ancient 
ford,  in  1S24.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the  parish, 
which  about  the  year  1620  was  united  to  that  of  Larbert, 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Stir- 
ling and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling.  The  minister,  who 
officiates  in  both  places,  has  a  stipend  of  £271.  13., 
with  a  good  manse  in  Larbert,  and  a  glebe,  the  common 
property  of  the  two  parishes,  valued  at  £26.  10.  per 
annum  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  old  church  of  Duni- 
pace was  taken  down  from  apprehension  of  insecurity, 
and  the  present  church  erected  on  a  site  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  to  the  west,  in  1834,  at  a  cost  of  £2500  ;  it 
is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  later  English  style,  with 
a  square  embattled  tower,  and  contains  604  sittings. 
The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  wor- 
ship. The  parochial  school  is  attended  by  about  sixty 
327 


children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £15.  William  Simp- 
son, Esq.,  of  Plean,  bequeathed  £500  to  the  Kirk 
Session  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor.  There  are  some 
remains  of  the  castle  of  Torwood  to  the  west  of  the 
turnpike-road  from  Falkirk  to  Stirling :  the  history  of 
this  structure,  which  is  surrounded  by  the  remains  of 
the  ancient  Caledonian  forest,  is  involved  in  much  ob- 
scurity :  the  lands  attached  to  it  were  purchased  from 
one  of  the  lords  Forresters  by  the  late  Thomas  Dundas, 
Esq.,  grandfather  of  Colonel  Dundas,  of  Carron  Hall, 
the  present  proprietor. 


Obverse, 


Reverse. 


Seal. 


DUNKELD  and  DOWALLY,  a  parish,  in  the  county 
of  Perth,  15  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Perth,  and  55 
(N.  N.  TV".)  from  Edinburgh  ;  comprising  the  ancient 
city  of  Dunkeld,  partly  within  the  parish  of  Caputh  ;  for 
many  years  the  seat  of  the  primacy  of  the  kingdom 
prior  to  its  removal  to  St.  Andrew's,  and  now  the  seat 
of  a  presbytery ;  and  containing  in  the  parish  2S4S 
inhabitants,  of  whom  1096  are  in  the  town.  This  place, 
which  is  of  very  remote  origin,  and  is  supposed  to  have 
been  the  capital  of  the  ancient  Caledonia,  appears  to 
have  derived  its  name  from  the  erection  of  a  castle  or 
stronghold,  towards  the  close  of  the  5th  century,  on  an 
eminence  commanding  the  passes  of  the  vale  of  Atholl, 
and  still  called  the  King's  seat,  from  its  having  been 
the  resort  of  some  of  the  earlier  monarchs  for  partaking 
the  diversion  of  the  chase.  There  are  yet  remains  of 
this  ancient  fortress ;  and  near  the  site,  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots,  narrowly  escaped  a  serious  injury  from  one  of  the 
herd,  while  witnessing  a  chase  for  the  celebration  of 
which  the  Earl  of  Atholl  had  employed  2000  of  his 
Highlanders  to  collect  the  deer  of  the  central  Highlands. 
A  monastery  was  founded  here  about  the  year  570  for 
brethren  of  the  order  of  St.  Columba,  subordinate  to 
the  abbey  of  Iona,  over  which  that  saint  at  the  time 
presided  ;  and  Columba  remained  for  some  months  at 
this  place,  for  the  instruction  of  the  people  of  the  sur- 
rounding district,  who  assembled  in  great  numbers  to 
hear  him.  The  establishment  was  placed  under  the 
superintendence  of  an  abbot,  many  of  whose  successors 
held  the  most  distinguished  offices  in  the  state;  and 
the  brethren,  who  are  identified  with  the  ancient 
Culdees,  employed  themselves  chiefly  in  teaching  and 
transcribing  the  sacred  Scriptures,  but  had  no  commu- 
nion with  the  Church  of  Rome.  The  monastery,  ori- 
ginally of  rude  construction,  was  rebuilt  with  stone 
about  the  year  729,  and  continued  to  advance  in  im- 
portance ;  numerous  dwellings  gradually  arose  in  the 
immediate  vicinity,  and  in  S34  the  town  had  so 
much  increased  in  extent  that  Brudus,  king  of  the 
Picts,  with  a  numerous  army,  after  crossing  the  Tay, 


DUNK 


DUNK 


found  sufficient  accommodation  in  the  town  and  castle 
preparatory  to  his  battle  with  Alpinus,  king  of  the 
Scots,  at  Angus. 

In  845,  the  Danes,  on  their  march  to  plunder  the 
monastery,  were  encountered  near  Dunkeld  by  Kenneth 
Mc  Alpine,  who  defeated  them  with  considerable  loss ; 
but,  in  905,  again  advancing  for  the  same  purpose,  they 
succeeded  in  plundering  the  monastery  and  laying 
waste  the  town.  In  the  reign  of  Kenneth  III.,  a  nume- 
rous army  of  Danes,  in  a  third  attempt  to  commit  the 
same  depredations,  were  intercepted  on  their  march  by 
that  monarch,  who,  in  a  severe  conflict  near  Luncarty, 
defeated  them  with  great  slaughter.  The  buildings 
connected  with  the  monastery  still  increased,  and  the 
relics  of  St.  Columba  were  removed  from  Iona,  and 
deposited  in  a  church  erected  here,  and  dedicated  to 
his  memory  by  Kenneth  Mc  Alpine  after  he  had  united 
the  Scots  and  -Picts  into  one  kingdom.  The  Culdees 
continued  their  establishment  under  a  superior  of  their 
own  nomination,  and  had,  in  the  parish  of  Dowally  and 
other  places  in  the  district,  various  smaller  institu- 
tions, till  they  were  superseded  by  canons  regular  in  the 
reign  of  David  I.,  who,  in  1127,  converted  the  monas- 
tery into  a  cathedral  establishment,  and  made  Dunkeld 
the  seat  of  a  diocese,  which  retained  the  primacy  of  the 
kingdom  until  the  distinction  was  transferred  to  the 
see  of  St.  Andrew's  in  the  reign  of  James  III.  The 
prelates  of  Dunkeld  were  much  exposed  to  the  aggres- 
sions of  the  heads  of  the  Highland  clans  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  diocese,  with  whom  a  constant  state  of  warfare 
was  maintained.  The  revenues  of  the  see  were  fre- 
quently intercepted  by  armed  bands  who  waylaid  the 
bishops'  officers,  and  carried  them  off  by  violence  ;  and 
such  of  the  lands  belonging  to  the  bishops  as  were 
contiguous  to  the  estates  of  the  Highland  chiefs  were 
either  seized  and  appropriated  to  their  own  use,  or 
plundered  and  laid  waste.  The  bishops  were  assaulted 
even  while  officiating  in  the  cathedral ;  and  those  who 
ventured  to  resist,  or  bring  to  punishment,  the  leaders 
by  whom  these  outrages  were  perpetrated,  were  beset 
by  parties  against  whose  hostile  attacks  they  were  com- 
pelled to  defend  themselves  by  a  numerous  retinue  of 
armed  attendants. 

In  the  reign  of  James  II.,  the  Earl  of  Atholl,  nephew 
of  that  monarch,  assembled  the  canons  of  the  abbey, 
and  requested  them  to  appoint  his  brother,  Andrew 
Stuart,  though  not  in  full  orders,  successor  to  the  see, 
which  had  become  vacant  by  the  death  of  Bishop 
Brown.  With  this  request  they  thought  proper,  through 
intimidation,  to  comply ;  but  the  election  was  after- 
wards abrogated  by  Pope  Leo  X.,  and  Gavin  Douglas, 
uncle  of  the  Earl  of  Angus,  was  appointed,  whose  arrival 
to  take  possession  of  the  see  caused  the  servants  of 
Stuart  to  fly  to  arms,  and  seize  upon  the  palace  and  the 
tower  of  the  cathedral,  whence  they  discharged  a  volley 
of  shot  against  the  house  of  the  dean,  to  which  Douglas 
had  retired  to  receive  the  homage  of  the  clergy.  On 
the  following  day,  the  city  was  filled  with  the  armed 
adherents  of  both  parties,  and  a  dreadful  scene  of  vio- 
lence ensued ;  but  at  length,  Stuart,  finding  it  impos- 
sible to  relieve  his  men  in  the  palace,  was  compelled  to 
abandon  it,  and,  having  no  hope  of  retaining  the  pre- 
lacy, he  retired  on  condition  of  being  allowed  to  hold 
that  portion  of  the  bishop's  rents  which  he  had  already 
received,  and  also  the  churches  of  Alyth  and  Cargill,  on 
328 


payment  annually  of  a  trifling  acknowledgment.  From 
this  time  the  see  remained  undisturbed  till  the  Refor- 
mation. The  church  erected  by  Kenneth  Mc  Alpine  in 
S45  continued  to  be  the  cathedral  till  1318,  when  the 
choir  of  a  more  spacious  and  elegant  structure  was 
completed  by  Bishop  Sinclair,  and  appropriated  to  that 
purpose ;  in  1406  a  nave  was  added  to  the  building  by 
Bishop  Cardney,  and  the  remainder  of  the  church  was 
completed  in  1464  by  Bishop  Lauder,  who  also  erected 
the  lofty  tower  of  the  cathedral,  and  built  the  chapter- 
house, in  1469.  The  episcopal  palace,  to  the  south-west 
of  the  cathedral  church,  was  formerly  defended  by  a 
castle,  erected  in  1408,  but  of  which  at  present  nothing 
remains  except  the  site,  still  called  the  Castle  Close ; 
and  in  1508,  a  wing  was  added  to  the  palace,  and  a 
handsome  chapel  built  immediately  adjoining  it.  The 
bishops  had  palaces  also  at  Cluny,  Perth,  and  Edin- 
burgh, with  ample  revenues  ;  and  at  the  time  of  the 
Reformation,  the  church  of  Dunkeld  was  valued  at 
£1600  per  annum.  In  1560,  a  commission  was  issued 
by  the  Lords  of  Congregation  for  purifying  the  church, 
by  removing  the  altars,  images,  and  other  idolatrous 
ornaments,  and  burning  them  in  the  churchyard  ;  and 
in  their  zeal  to  fulfil  this  commission,  the  mob  destroyed 
the  whole  of  the  interior  of  that  beautiful  and  venerable 
structure  of  which  the  ruins  display  the  stately  mag- 
nificence, and  left  nothing  entire  but  the  walls.  These, 
too,  were  subsequently  stripped  of  their  roof,  and  have 
since  remained  in  a  state  of  dreary  ruin,  with  the  ex- 
ception only  of  the  choir,  which  in  1600  was  roofed 
with  slate  at  the  expense  of  the  family  of  Stuart,  of 
Ladywell,  and  has  been  appropriated  as  the  parish 
church.  By  acts  of  the  General  Assembly  in  15S6  and 
1 593,  the  city  was  made  the  seat  of  a  presbytery  ;  but 
there  is  still  a  bishop  of  Dunkeld,  though  unconnected 
with  the  Church  of  Scotland,  who  presides  over  the 
episcopal  churches  of  Dunkeld,  Dunblane,  and  Fife. 

After  the  battle  of  Killiecrankie  in  1689,  the  Highland 
troops  of  Viscount  Dundee,  who  had  been  killed  in  that 
conflict,  advanced  to  the  city,  then  garrisoned  by  the 
newly-raised  Cameronian  regiment ;  and  after  a  severe 
struggle,  the  Highlanders  obtained  possession  of  many 
of  the  houses,  from  which  they  made  frequent  discharges 
of  musketry  upon  the  Cameronian  soldiers,  who,  in  order 
to  dislodge  them,  set  fire  to  the  buildings  where  they  had 
sought  shelter.  The  whole  of  the  town,  with  the  exception 
of  the  cathedral  and  three  houses,  was  totally  burnt ;  and 
the  inhabitants  were  compelled  to  take  refuge  in  the 
church.  In  1703,  the  Marquess  of  Atholl  was  elevated  to 
the  rank  of  duke  by  Queen  Anne,  who  is  said  to  have  sub- 
sequently paid  a  visit  to  that  nobleman,  first  at  Blair- 
Atholl,  and  then  at  Dunkeld  House,  to  confer  with  him  on 
matters  connected  with  the  union  of  the  two  kingdoms  j 
and  in  corroboration  of  the  event  a  state  room  in  the  castle 
at  the  former  place  is  still  called  Queen  Anne's  bedcham- 
ber. On  the  breaking  out  of  the  rebellion  in  1745,  the 
Marquess  of  Tullibardine,  accompanied  by  the  Pretender, 
whose  cause  he  had  embraced,  took  temporary  possession 
of  Blair  Castle  in  the  absence  of  his  younger  brother, 
the  Duke  of  Atholl,  and  sent  the  lords  Nairn  and  Lochiel 
to  proclaim  the  prince  at  the  market-cross  of  Dunkeld. 
Early  in  the  following  year,  the  Duke  of  Cumberland 
stationed  part  of  his  forces  at  Blair-Atholl  and  in  the 
city,  which  posts,  after  his  departure,  were  occupied  by 
bodies  of  Hessian  troops,  between  whom  and  the  Atholl 


DUNK 


DUNK 


Highlanders  frequent  skirmishes  took  place  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. In  September,  1S42,  Her  Majesty  the  Queen, 
while  visiting  her  Scottish  dominions,  made  an  excursion 
to  Dunkeld  House,  attended  by  Prince  Albert,  and  was 
met  on  the  boundary  of  the  estate  by  a  numerous  guard 
of  the  Atholl  Highlanders,  who  escorted  the  royal  visit- 
ers to  the  park.  Here  Lord  Glenlyon,  the  heir  of  the 
family,  at  the  head  of  his  Highland  regiment,  received 
the  Queen,  and  then  conducted  her  to  the  tent  which 
had  been  erected  for  her  reception  on  the  lawn  to  the 
north-west  of  the  cathedral,  a  spot  commanding  a  splen- 
did view  of  the  wildly  romantic  and  beautifully  pictu- 
resque scenery  for  which  the  place  is  so  highly  celebrated. 
Her  Majesty  reviewed  the  regiment,  and  passing  along 
the  line  formed  by  the  various  local  societies  that  had 
been  assembled  in  the  park,  retired  into  the  tent,  where 
a  sumptuous  collation  was  served,  after  which  the  officers 
of  the  Atholl  clan  were  severally  introduced  to  the 
Queen,  and  had  the  ^honour  of  kissing  hands.  Having 
remained  for  a  few  hours  at  Dunkeld,  Her  Majesty  took 
her  departure  for  Breadalbane,  escorted  by  the  Hon. 
Capt.  Murray,  who  rode  by  the  side  of  the  royal  carriage 
to  the  boundary  of  the  Atholl  estate,  a  distance  of  thir- 
teen miles,  pointing  out  by  name  to  the  Queen  the 
various  objects  of  interest.  In  1844,  Her  Majesty,  on 
her  second  visit  to  Scotland,  passed  again  through 
Dunkeld. 

The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  river  Tay,  over  which  is  a  noble  bridge  of  five 
open  arches,  of  which  the  central  arch  has  a  span  of 
ninety  feet,  and  the  others  of  eighty- four  and  seventy- 
four  each,  with  two  dry  arches  of  twenty-five  feet  span, 
the  whole  erected  in  1809,  by  the  late  Duke  of  Atholl, 
at  an  expense  of  £30,000,  of  which  £5000  were  granted 
by  government.  From  the  centre  of  the  bridge  is  a  fine 
view  of  the  city,  which  consists  partly  of  a  spacious 
street  of  handsome  modern  houses,  extending  from  the 
bridge  along  the  line  of  the  great  north  road  from  Perth 
to  Inverness ;  and  a  street  of  more  ancient  but  well-built 
houses  crosses  the  former  at  right  angles,  in  the  market- 
place, from  which  the  old  cross  was  removed  about  the 
commencement  of  the  present  century.  Near  the  cathe- 
dral is  the  deanery,  the  only  house  now  remaining  of  the 
three  saved  from  the  conflagration  in  16S9.  There  is  a 
public  library,  called  the  Mackintosh  library,  which 
originated  in  a  gift  to  the  town  by  the  Rev.  Donald 
Mackintosh,  in  181 1  ;  it  is  under  the  direction  of  a  com- 
mittee of  curators,  and  the  collection  at  present  consists 
of  more  than  2000  volumes.  The  manufacture  of  linen 
and  the  tanning  of  leather,  formerly  carried  on  to  a  con- 
siderable extent,  have  been  discontinued,  and  the  chief 
trade  at  present  is  the  making  of  shoes.  Many  of  the 
poorer  class  are  employed  during  the  spring  and  summer 
months  in  the  peeling  of  oak,  and  at  other  times  in  agri- 
culture and  in  the  slate-quarries  ;  there  are  also  a  dis- 
tillery, a  public  brewery,  and  several  malting  establish- 
ments, and  a  saw-mill,  affording  occupation  to  a  mode- 
rate number  of  persons.  Since  the  erection  of  the 
bridge  a  very  great  increase  has  taken  place  in  the  gene- 
ral traffic  of  the  town  and  neighbourhood.  There  are 
now  two  spacious  hotels  with  posting  establishments, 
for  the  reception  of  visiters  whom  the  beauty  of  the 
scenery  and  the  numerous  objects  of  deep  interest  in  the 
vicinity  attract ;  and  several  lodging-houses  are  occu- 
pied by  families  and  individuals  who  during  the  summer 
Vol.  I.— 329 


months  make  this  their  residence.  The  post-office  has  a 
good  delivery  ;  the  Inverness  mail  through  Atholl  passes 
daily,  a  coach  to  Perth  three  times  in  the  week,  and 
during  the  summer  there  are  coaches  to  Inverness, 
Dundee,  Loch  Lomond,  and  Perth.  The  market,  which 
is  amply  supplied  with  provisions  of  every  kind,  is  on 
Saturday  ;  and  fairs  for  cattle  and  horses,  and  for  hiring 
farm-servants,  are  held  on  February  14th,  March  25th, 
April  5th,  June  9th,  and  the  second  Tuesday  in  Novem- 
ber. The  police  is  under  the  management  of  an  officer 
appointed  by  the  Duke  of  Atholl  as  hereditary  lord  of 
the  barony.  A  court  for  the  recovery  of  small  debts 
is  held  quarterly,  under  the  sheriff;  and  the  county 
magistrates  for  the  district  hold  their  courts  in  the 
Masons'  lodge,  in  which  also  public  meetings  are  held, 
and  the  general  business  of  the  town  transacted.  The 
old  prison  was  taken  down  in  1743,  and  one  of  the  dry 
arches  of  the  bridge  was  subsequently  inclosed  and 
fitted  up  for  the  temporary  confinement  of  offenders. 

The  parish  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  vale  of 
Atholl,  and  extends  for  more  than  six  miles  along  the 
bank  of  the  Tay,  varying  in  breadth,  and  comprising 
about  12,000  acres,  of  which  1200  are  a»-able,  300  pasture, 
10,000  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder 
covered  with  water.  The  surface  is  strikingly  diversi- 
fied with  hills  of  precipitous  elevation  and  fantastic 
form,  of  which  the  steep  acclivities  are  indented  with 
deep  ravines,  and  which  vary  in  height  from  1000  to 
2000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  rising  abruptly  from 
a  narrow  tract  of  shelving  low  land  apparently  gained  by 
embankment  from  the  river.  These  hills  were  planted 
with  larch-trees  by  the  late  Duke  of  Atholl,  and  form  an 
extensive  forest,  nearly  fourteen  miles  in  length  from 
Craig-y- barns,  opposite  the  King's  Seat,  which  has  an 
elevation  of  1000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  varying  from 
three  to  six  miles  in  breadth.  On  the  summit  of  the 
hill  of  Duchray,  which  rises  to  a  height  of  1900  feet,  is  a 
lake  about  half  a  mile  in  circumference,  abounding  with 
perch  ;  on  the  hill  of  Ordie,  at  an  elevation  of  700  feet, 
is  another,  several  miles  in  circumference,  in  which  are 
trout  of  excellent  quality  ;  in  the  barony  of  Dulcapon  is 
Loch  Broom,  also  containing  trout;  and  at  Rotmel  are 
two  lakes,  in  which  perch  are  found.  The  soil  in  the 
lower  lands  is  thin  and  light,  but  on  the  acclivities  of  the 
hills  richer,  and  slightly  intermixed  with  clay,  producing 
good  crops  of  oats  and  barley,  with  turnips  and  potatoes. 
The  state  of  husbandry  has  been  greatly  improved,  and 
an  agricultural  society  for  the  district  established  ;  the 
lands  have  been  drained  and  inclosed  ;  the  farm-build- 
ings and  offices  are  of  stone,  roofed  with  slate,  and  are 
comfortable  and  well  arranged.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £6073.  The  substratum  is  princi- 
pally clay-slate,  of  which  the  rocks  are  composed,  and 
which  is  remarkable  chiefly  for  the  irregularity  of  its 
formation.  On  the  eastern  base  of  the  hill  of  Craig-y- 
barns,  a  small  vein  of  copper-ore  was  discovered,  but  has 
not  been  wrought ;  and  in  a  bank  of  sand  about  twenty 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  river  Tay,  in  the  lands  of 
Dowally,  some  grains  of  gold  were  found,  of  which  orna- 
ments were  made ;  but  the  quantity  obtained  was  so 
small,  in  comparison  with  the  expense  of  extracting  it, 
that  all  attempts  have  been  abandoned.  Pearls  of  good 
colour  and  form,  though  coarse,  are  found  in  the  muscles 
of  the  Tay,  and  occasionally  some  of  finer  quality  and  of 
great  value. 

2  U 


DUN  K 


DUNK 


The  present  Dunkeld  House,  one  of  the  seats  of  the 
Murray  family,  now  in  an  unfinished  state,  was  com- 
menced by  the  late  Duke  of  Atholl  not  long  before  his 
death  in  1S30,  since  which  event  the  building  has  been 
discontinued.  The  mansion  had  been  raised  to  the 
second  story ;  an  elegant  family  chapel,  the  grand 
staircase,  and  a  gallery  ninety-six  feet  in  length  had 
been  nearly  completed  ;  and  in  this  state,  with  a  tem- 
porary roof  to  protect  the  walls  from  injury,  the  struc- 
ture, which  is  in  the  later  English  style  of  architecture, 
still  remains.  It  is  situated  in  a  park  of  no  great  ex- 
tent, but  pre-eminent  for  the  unrivalled  beauty  of  its 
scenery,  and  for  the  extensive  views  it  commands  over 
the  rich  vale  of  Athol  and  the  river  Tay  on  the  one 
side,  and  the  majestic  forest  and  wildly  mountainous 
district  on  the  other.  Within  the  park  are  the  stately 
remains  of  the  venerable  abbey  of  Dunkeld,  with  which 
the  style  of  the  mansion  is  in  pleasing  harmony ;  the 
grounds  are  laid  out  with  great  taste  and  effect,  and 
combine  every  possible  variety  of  deeply-interesting 
features.  Near  the  remains  of  the  cathedral  are  two 
fine  larch-trees,  the  first  of  that  species  introduced  into 
Britain,  having  been  brought  from  the  Tyrol  by  Mr. 
Menzies,  of  Culdares,  in  1738.  They  were  reared  in  the 
greenhouse,  and  planted  not  far  from  the  old  mansion 
about  the  same  time  as  those  in  the  Monzie  gardens, 
near  Crieff;  they  have  attained  a  height  of  about  ninety 
feet,  with  proportionate  girth,  and  are  apparently  in  a 
state  of  progressive  increase.  The  village  of  Dowally 
consists  of  a  few  houses  near  the  church  of  that  name, 
with  one  good  inn  ;  there  is  also  the  small  village  of 
Kindallachan,  about  a  mile  distant. 

The  parish  of  Dowally  and  the  ancient  city  of  Dun- 
keld both  formed  originally  part  of  the  extensive  parish 
of  Caputh,  from  which  they  were  separated  in  1500,  and 
erected  into  a  distinct  parish.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£161,  with  an  allowance  of  £63  in  lieu  of  manse  and 
glebe  ;  patron,  the  Duke  of  Atholl.  The  choir  of  the 
cathedral  was  first  repaired,  and  fitted  up  for  public 
■worship,  at  the  expense  of  the  Murray  family,  about 
the  year  1691  ;  and  in  1820  it  was  thoroughly  repaired, 
and  restored,  with  some  trifling  exceptions,  to  its  ori- 
ginal state  by  the  late  duke,  at  a  cost  of  £5400,  towards 
which  £1000  were  granted  by  government.  The  interior 
contains  655  sittings,  and  is  separated  from  the  aisles 
by  a  range  of  seven  circular  arches,  supported  on  low 
massive  Norman  columns,  above  which  are  a  triforium 
of  similar  character,  and  a  range  of  clerestory  windows 
of  the  early  English  style.  In  the  choir  was  formerly 
a  recumbent  figure  of  Alexander,  son  of  Robert,  King 
of  Scotland,  but  better  known  as  the  Wolf  of  Badenoch  ; 
it  is  now  placed  in  the  vestibule,  in  which,  also,  is  a 
tablet  to  the  memory  of  the  Rev.  John  Robb,  minister 
of  Dunkeld,  who  was  wrecked  in  the  Forfarshire  steamer 
in  1838.  In  the  north  wall  of  the  choir  is  a  tablet  to 
Thomas  Bisset,  commissary  of  Dunkeld ;  and  in  the 
south  aisle  is  the  monument  of  Bishop  Cardney,  on 
which  is  his  effigy  in  a  recumbent  posture,  under  a 
crocketed  canopy.  The  statue  of  Bishop  Sinclair,  of 
which  the  head  has  been  broken  off,  is  in  one  of  the 
aisles  ;  and  within  the  walls  are  also  tombstones  of  the 
Dean  of  Dunkeld  in  1476,  and  the  rector  of  Monedie  in 
1548.  The  other  portions  of  the  cathedral  are  roofless, 
and  falling  into  decay  ;  the  walls  of  the  ^aisles  are 
strengthened  with  buttresses  between  the  >\  windows, 
330 


terminating  in  crocketed  pinnacles  above  the  parapet, 
and  at  the  west  end  of  the  nave  is  the  lofty  tower, 
ninety-six  feet  high,  with  an  octagonal  turret  of  great 
beauty.  The  Chapter-house,  which  has  been  appro- 
priated as  a  sepulchral  chapel  for  the  Murray  family, 
contains  several  stately  monuments,  among  which  are, 
a  marble  statue  of  John,  fourth  duke  of  Atholl,  attired 
in  his  parliamentary  robes,  erected'  by  his  duchess  in 
1833 ;  a  monument  to  the  Marquess  of  Atholl,  on 
which  the  armorial  bearings  with  their  several  quarter- 
ings  are  richly  emblazoned ;  and  a  tablet  inscribed  to 
the  memory  of  Lord  Charles  Murray,  who  died  in 
Greece. 

The  church  of  Dowally  was  erected  in  1820,  on  the 
site  of  the  old  church  founded  by  Bishop  Brown  ;  it  is 
a  neat  structure  containing  210  sittings,  all  of  which  are 
free,  and  to  which,  by  the  erection  of  a  gallery,  eighty 
might  be  added.  On  the  east  wall  of  the  building  are 
the  armorial  bearings  of  Bishop  Brown.  Divine  service 
is  performed  every  Sunday,  both  in  the  English  and 
Gaelic  languages,  by  the  assistant  minister  of  Dunkeld. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church,  Independents,  and  Glassites.  The  Royal  Gram- 
mar School  was  founded  in  1567,  by  James  VI.,  who 
granted  funds  for  its  support,  from  which  the  rector  de- 
rives a  salary  of  £5.  13.  4.,  in  addition  to  the  fees  and  a 
house  rent  free ;  the  presentation  is  vested  in  the  Mur- 
ray family,  subject  to  the  approval  of  the  synod  of 
Perth  and  Stirling,  who  have  power  of  removal  on  suffi- 
cient cause.  The  buildings  are  maintained  by  the 
family  ;  the  course  of  study  is  similar  to  that  of  the 
High  School  of  Edinburgh,  and  the  number  of  scholars 
averages  about  eighty.  A  parochial  school  was  esta- 
blished at  Dowally  in  1833,  by  the  trustees  of  the 
Atholl  estates,  who  erected  a  school-house,  and  pay  the 
master  a  salary  of  £34,  in  addition  to  about  £14  fees. 
A  school  for  the  instruction  of  girls  in  sewing,  tambour- 
ing, and  other  branches  of  female  industry,  was  insti- 
tuted by  Jane,  Duchess  of  Atholl,  in  1788,  and  since 
her  decease  has  been  maintained  by  Lady  Glenlyon ;  the 
duchess  also  instituted  a  Sunday  school  in  1789,  for 
which  she  erected  an  appropriate  building.  An  hospital 
was  erected  in  1510,  by  Bishop  Brown,  for  the  main- 
tenance of  seven  aged  men,  each  of  whom  had  a  free 
house,  with  five  bolls  of  meal,  and  an  allowance  of  five 
merks  annually.  The  building  was  destroyed  in  the 
conflagration  of  the  city  in  1689,  and  some  good  houses 
were  erected  on  the  site,  of  which  several  were  after- 
wards sold ;  the  rent  of  the  remainder  is  distributed  in 
meal  among  the  bedesmen,  under  the  patronage  of  the 
commissary.  A  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Ninian  was 
founded  in  1420,  by  Bishop  Cardney,  who  endowed  it 
with  the  lands  of  Mucklarie,  the  rents  of  which  are  now 
paid  to  the  rector  of  the  royal  school ;  there  are  no 
remains  of  the  building,  and  the  site  is  occupied  by  the 
houses  in  Atholl-street.  On  the  summit  of  an  eminence 
to  the  east  of  the  town,  not  far  from  St.  Ninian's,  was 
a  chapel  dedicated  to  Jerome,  and  called  the  Red  Chapel ; 
the  site  is  inclosed  by  a  stone  wall,  but  there  are  no 
remains  of  the  edifice.  The  ruins  of  the  ancient  castle 
of  Rotmel  were  removed  about  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century,  when  numerous  coins  were  found  in 
digging  up  the  foundation.  To  the  east  of  the  city  is  an 
extensive  tract  called  the  Craigwood,  in  the  centre  of 
which  is  an  eminence  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the 


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town  and  the  several  passes  of  the  vale  of  Atholl.  On 
the  side  of  Craig-y-barns  are  two  caves  overlooking 
the  King's  Pass,  of  which  one  was  an  ancient  hermitage, 
and  the  other  the  abode  of  a  noted  robber  who  was  shot 
on  his  return  from  the  well  of  St.  Columba ;  and  on 
the  east  side  is  another,  called  the  Duchess  Cave,  which 
till  lately  was  neatly  fitted  up.  There  are  also  several 
caves  on  the  back  hills  of  Dowally,  which  were  inha- 
bited for  many  months  after  the  battle  of  Culloden. 

DUNKELD,  LITTLE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Perth,  adjoining  Dunkeld,  and  containing,  with  the 
village  of  Inver,  2718  inhabitants.  This  parish,  which 
includes  the  ancient  parish  of  Laganallachy,  is  bounded 
on  the  north-east  by  the  Tay,  and  is  about  six- 
teen miles  in  length,  and  from  five  to  six  in  extreme 
breadth,  comprising  23,200  acres,  of  which  about  7500 
are  under  cultivation,  3204  woodland  and  plantations, 
and  the  remainder  waste.  The  lands  are  divided  into 
three  districts,  Murthly,  Strathbran,  and  the  Bishopric, 
the  last  so  called  from  having  formerly  belonged  to  the 
ancient  see  of  Dunkeld.  The  district  of  Murthly  ex- 
tends from  the  parish  of  Kinclaven  on  the  east  to  the 
village  of  Inver,  and  includes  the  hill  of  Birnam.  The 
district  of  Strathbran  extends  from  Inver  to  Amulrie  on 
the  west,  for  nearly  nine  miles,  and  is  watered  by  the 
river  Bran,  from  whicn  it  takes  its  name ;  and  the 
Bishopric  stretches  from  Inver  for  almost  ten  miles 
along  the  Tay.  The  surface  is  strikingly  diversified  with 
ranges  of  hills,  of  which  that  of  Birnam,  on  the  south, 
rises  in  stately  grandeur  to  a. considerable  elevation,  em- 
bracing an  extensive  view  of  the  adjacent  country  j  the 
hill  of  Craigvinian,  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Tay, 
also  commands  some  finely-varied  prospects.  The  river 
Bran  has  its  source  in  Loch  Freuchy,  on  the  southern 
border  of  the  parish,  and  in  its  precipitous  and  romantic 
course  forms  several  picturesque  cascades  ;  it  flows  into 
the  Tay  nearly  opposite  the  town  of  Dunkeld.  There 
are  also  a  few  lakes,  chiefly  in  the  mountain  district,  all 
of  which  abound  with  excellent  trout,  and  in  Loch 
Skiack  are  found  pike  of  considerable  size.  The  soil 
varies  extremely  in  different  parts  of  this  extensive 
parish  ;  in  the  eastern  portions  it  is  generally  a  rich 
black  loam,  and  in  other  districts  partly  sand  and  partly 
gravel.  The  crops  are,  barley,  bear,  and  oats,  with 
turnips  and  potatoes,  of  which  last  great  quantities  are 
raised,  and  sent  to  the  London  markets,  where,  from 
the  excellence  of  their  quality,  they  obtain  a  decided 
preference.  Considerable  numbers  of  black-cattle  are 
reared  in  the  Highland  districts  of  the  parish,  and  sent 
to  the  southern  markets  ;  and  many  sheep,  usually  of 
the  black-faced  breed,  are  fed  by  the  various  tenants. 
There  are  extensive  woods  and  plantations  in  Murthly 
and  the  Bishopric ;  the  prevailing  trees  are,  oak,  ash, 
Scotch  fir,  larch,  and  plane,  with  birch  and  hazel.  The 
coppices  of  oak  are  cut  down  as  they  successively  attain 
the  growth  of  twenty  years,  and  produce  a  valuable 
return  by  the  sale  of  the  bark,  in  the  preparation  of 
which  many  of  the  population  are  employed  during  the 
summer  months.  Great  quantities  of  Scotch  fir,  also, 
of  large  girth,  are  sent  to  England  for  ship-building, 
and  timber  for  railroads  and  other  purposes.  Near 
Murthly  is  a  quarry  of  fine  freestone,  from  which  was 
raised  the  stone  for  the  cathedral  of  Dunkeld,  and  more 
recently,  for  the  erection  of  the  bridge  at  that  place 
across  the  Tay ;  there  is  likewise  a  quarry  of  excellent 
331 


slate  at  Birnam  hill,  which  is  extensively  wrought.    The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £8960. 

Murthly  Castle  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  river,  in  a  finely-w-ooded  and  ample  de- 
mesne rising  in  bold  undulations,  and  comprehending 
much  picturesque  scenery ;  a  handsome  modern  man- 
sion has  been  begun  by  the  proprietor  in  front  of  the 
castle,  and  various  improvements  have  been  made  in 
the  grounds.  Dalguise.  is  an  ancient  mansion  with, 
modern  additions,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  road  to 
Taymouth  :  Kinnaird  House  stands  on  an  eminence  over- 
looking the  Tay,  in  grounds  tastefully  laid  out,  and 
abounding  with  romantic  scenery.  Birnam  Lodge  and 
Birnam  Cottage  are  both  pleasant  houses  nearly  opposite 
to  Dunkeld  ;  and  a  handsome  seat  in  the  cottage  style, 
beautifully  situated  on  the  western  acclivity  of  Torwood, 
has  been  recently  built  by  Mr.  Wallace,  of  Perth.  There 
are  numerous  hamlets  in  the  parish,  few  of  which  can 
be  regarded  as  villages,  with  the  exception  of  Inver, 
itself  a  small  village,  situated  at  the  influx  of  the  river 
Bran  into  the  Tay,  and,  previously  to  the  erection  of 
the  bridge,  the  station  of  a  ferry  across  that  river. 
This  village  is  much  frequented  by  parties  visiting  the 
romantic  scenery  in  its  vicinity.  Among  its  principal 
attractions  are,  the  Rumbling  Bridge,  thrown  over  a  deep 
chasm  in  which  the  Bran,  rushing  with  impetuous 
violence  among  the  rocks,  forms  a  romantic  cascade ; 
and  Ossians  Seat,  or  the  Hermitage,  situated  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Bran,  in  the  woods  of  the  Duke  of 
Atholl,  and  close  to  which  is  a  natural  cascade  of  less 
romantic,  but  more  picturesque,  appearance.  Near  the 
village  is  a  saw-mill  driven  by  water  equivalent  to 
twenty-four  horse  power,  where  a  considerable  number 
of  persons  are  employed.  There  are  several  fishing- 
stations  on  the  Tay,  in  which  salmon  and  salmon-trout 
were  formerly  taken  in  abundance ;  but  the  quantity 
for  some  years  has  been  rapidly  decreasing,  and  the 
fisheries  at  present  yield  but  a  very  inconsiderable  rent 
to  the  proprietors.  Facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  excellent  turnpike-roads,  of  which  those  in  the  dis- 
tricts of  Strathbran  and  the  Bishopric  pass  for  ten  miles, 
and  that  in  the  eastern  district  for  four  miles,  through 
the  parish ;  and  about  half-way  between  Dunkeld  and 
Amulrie,  a  bridge  has  been  built  over  the  river  Bran. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Dunkeld  and  synod  of 
Perth  and  Stirling  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  £157.  10.,  with  a  manse,  and  the  glebes  of 
this  place  and  Laganallachy  together  are  valued  at 
£18  per  annum.  The  parish  church,  situated  near  the 
south  bank  of  the  Tay,  was  built  in  179S,  and  is  a  neat 
plain  structure  containing  820  sittings.  The  church 
of  Laganallachy,  in  the  district  of  Strathbran,  has 
about  450  sittings ;  and  divine  service  is  performed 
there  one  Sunday  in  the  month,  wholly  in  the  Gaelic 
language.  There  is  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel  attached 
to  Murthly  Castle,  recently  fitted  up  by  the  proprie- 
tor. Two  parochial  schools  are  supported ;  the  master 
of  the  one  has  a  salary  of  £29.  18.,  with  about  £10 
arising  from  the  fees,  and  the  master  of  the  other 
a  salary  of  £10,  with  £10  fees,  and  both  have  houses 
and  gardens  rent  free.  There  are  also  three  schools 
connected  with  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian 
Knowledge,  the  masters  of  which  have  salaries  of  £15 
each  ;  and,  the  schools  being  situated  in  populous  dis- 

2  U2 


DU  N  L 


DUNL 


tricts,  the  amount  of  fees  is  considerable.  A  small 
parochial  library  is  supported  by  subscription.  John 
Stewart,  Esq.,  of  Grandtully,  about  the  commencement 
of  the  last  century,  bequeathed  £20,000  merks  Scotch 
for  the  maintenance  of  twelve  poor  men  of  the  Episco- 
palian Church ;  and  in  1740,  a  building  for  their  re- 
ception was  erected  on  the  lands  of  Murthly ;  but  the 
original  purpose  of  the  testator  was  not  carried  into 
effect,  and  the  property  consequently  accumulated  to 
the  sum  of  £2609  sterling,  of  which  the  interest  is 
divided  among  poor  persons  of  this  and  the  neighbour- 
ing parishes.  There  are  several  Druidical  remains  ;  and 
on  the  farm  of  Balinloan  is  a  remarkable  stone  called 
Clach-a-mhoid,  where  it  is  said  a  baron  in  the  vicinity 
held  his  court.  Two  very  large  trees  are  still  standing 
near  the  church,  said  to  be  the  only  remains  of  Birnam 
Forest,  and  on  a  plain  near  the  bank  of  the  Bran  are 
the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Trochery,  an  ancient  residence 
of  the  Gowrie  family. 

DUNLICHTY,  county  of  Inverness. — See  Daviot. 

DUNLOP,  a  parish,  chiefly  in  the  district  of  Cun- 
ningham e,  county  of  Ayr,  but  partly  in  the  Upper 
ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  2-§  miles  (N.  N.  W.) 
from  Stewarton;  containing  1150  inhabitants.  This 
place  deriyes  its  name,  signifying  in  the  Gaelic  language 
a  "  winding  hill,"  from  the  situation  of  its  ancient 
castle  on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  of  which  the  base  was 
surrounded  by  a  small  river.  The  parish  is  about  seven 
miles  in  length,  and  two  in  average  breadth,  and  com-  • 
prises  6554  acres,  of  which  5S3-1  are  arable,  130  wood- 
land and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  hill  pasture, 
moss,  and  waste.  The  surface  is  gently  undulated,  and 
though  rather  elevated,  in  no  part  attains  a  height  of 
more  than  150  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea;  the 
highest  hills  are  those  of  Craignaught  and  Knockmead, 
towards  the  north-east,  which  command  some  pleasing 
and  richly-varied  prospects  over  the  adjacent  country. 
From  Bruckenheugh,  about  a  mile  to  the  south  of.  the 
church,  the  view  embraces  the  wooded  district  between 
this  parish  and  the  sea,  the  shores  of  the  Frith  of  Clyde 
with  their  numerous  bays  and  promontories,  the  lofty 
mountains  of  Arran,  with  Ailsa  Craig  and  the  hills  of 
Ireland  in  the  distance.  There  are  many  springs  of 
excellent  water,  and  the  lands  are  intersected  with  va- 
rious streams,  of  which  the  principal  is  the  Lugton  ; 
it  has  its  source  in  Loch  Libo,  in  Renfrewshire,  and, 
after  a  course  of  about  fifteen  miles,  in  which  it  forms  a 
boundary  between  this  parish  and  that  of  Beith,  flows 
into  the  river  Garnock  near  Kilwinning.  The  Glassert 
burn  runs  through  the  centre  of  the  parish,  dividing  it 
into  two  equal  parts,  and,  receiving  several  streamlets  in 
its  course,  falls  into  the  Annack  ;  Corsehill  burn  is  also 
a  small  stream,  separating  the  parish  from  that  of 
Stewarton.  Lugton  burn  abounds  with  trout  and  pike ; 
trout  are  also  found  in  the  other  streams,  and  in  the 
Glassert  char  used  formerly  to  be  taken  in  abundance, 
but  they  have  now  totally  disappeared.  Halket  loch,  for- 
merly covering  about  ten  acres,  has  been  drained  within 
the  last  few  years,  and  is  now  a  luxuriant  meadow. 

The  soil  is  generally  of  a  clayey  retentive  quality,  but 
fertile,  and  under  proper  management  very  productive ; 
in  the  southern  parts  of  the  parish  a  rich  loam  is  pre- 
valent, and  in  the  higher  lands  are  some  patches  of 
moss.  The  principal  crop  is  oats,  with  a  few  acres  of 
wheat ;  barley  and  bear  are  raised  for  home  consump- 
332 


tion,  and  also  small  quantities  of  potatoes  and  turnips, 
for  which,  however,  the  soil  is  not  well  adapted.  The 
system  of  agriculture  is  improving  ;  the  rotation  plan  of 
husbandry  is  adopted,  and  the  draining  of  the  lands, 
hitherto  much  neglected,  is  now  growing  into  general 
practice.  The  dairy-farms  are  the  chief  objects  of 
attention  with  the  farmers,  and  the  cheese  produced 
has  long  been  distinguished  for  its  quality  ;  it  differs 
from  other  kinds  mainly  in  its  being  made  of  unskimmed 
milk,  a  practice  originally  introduced  here  by  Barbara 
Gilmour,  from  which  circumstance  all  cheese  made  in  a 
similar  manner  has  obtained  the  distinctive  appellation 
of  Dunlop  cheese.  About  25,000  stone  are  annually 
produced  in  the  parish,  and  find  a  ready  sale  in  the 
various  markets.  Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing 
of  cattle,  which  are  all  of  the  Ayrshire  or  Cunninghame 
breed ;  the  sheep  are  generally  the  Leicestershire : 
about  900  milch-cows  are  kept  for  the  dairy.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £8493.  There  are  no 
natural  woods  ;  the  plantations  consist  of  larch,  Scotch 
fir,  ash,  elm,  beech,  and  plane,  and  on  the  larger  pro- 
perties they  are  well  attended  to,  and  are  in  a  flourish- 
ing state.  The  substrata  are,  claystone  passing  into 
porphyry  and  amygdaloid,  with  occasional  masses  of 
greenstone  and  basalt ;  limestone,  sandstone,  and  coal. 
The  limestone,  which  abounds  with  petrified  shells,  is 
quarried  at  Laigh-Gameshill ;  it  occurs  in  seams  of 
about  sixteen  feet  in  thickness,  and  being  of  excellent 
quality  about  5000  bolls  are  annually  raised,  part  of 
, which  is  burnt  on  the  spot.  Limestone  is  also  wrought 
in  other  parts  of  the  parish,  but  to  a  comparatively 
small  extent.  The  coal,  of  which  only  a  few  cart-loads 
have  been  removed,  was  found  to  be  of  so  inferior  a 
quality  that  it  was  not  thought  advisable  to  continue  the 
working  of  it :  the  greenstone  and  freestone  have  been 
quarried  in  several  places  for  building  purposes  and  for 
making  dykes  for  inclosing  the  lands,  and  also  to  fur- 
nish materials  for  the  furrow-drains. 

Dunlop  House,  a  spacious  and  elegant  mansion  in  the 
early  English  style,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  bank 
of  the  Corsehill  burn,  in  a  deeply-sequestered  spot,  and 
embosomed  in  a  richly-planted  demesne.  The  village, 
which  is  pleasant,  consists  principally  of  one  street, 
neatly  built ;  a  subscription  library  has  been  established, 
and  there  is  also  a  library  in  connexion  with  a  Sabbath 
school,  which  contains  about  250  volumes.  The  inha- 
bitants of  the  village  are  partly  employed  in  the  various 
trades  requisite  for  the  supply  of  the  parish,  and  many 
of  them  are  engaged  as  cbeese-factors  for  the  neigh- 
bouring districts,  which  they  supply  not  only  with  the 
produce  of  Dunlop,  but  also  with  that  of  other  places  in 
the  county  of  Ayr.  Fairs  for  the  sale  of  dairy  stock 
and  agricultural  produce  are  held  on  the  second  Friday 
in  May  (O.  S.)  and  the  12th  of  November,  at  both  of 
which  a  considerable  quantity  of  business  is  transacted. 
The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Irvine  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  of 
Eglinton.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £2 1 5,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The  church, 
erected  in  1S36  to  replace  the  ancient  building,  which 
had  become  too  small  for  the  increased  population,  is  a 
neat  and  substantial  edifice  adapted  for  a  congregation 
of  830  persons.  The  parochial  school  is  well  conducted  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £25.  13.,  with  £18  fees,  a 
house,  and  £2.  2.  in  lieu  of  a  garden.   The  present  school- 


DUNN 


DUNN 


house  was  erected  in  1840  :  the  old  one,  yet  standing, 
was  built  in  1641  by  James,  Viscount  Clandeboyes,  by 
whom,  according  to  the  inscription  in  front,  it  would 
appear  to  have  been  endowed  ;  but  nothing  is  known 
of  the  funds  appropriated  to  that  purpose.  At  Chapel 
House,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  village,  were  the  ruins 
of  an  ancient  chapel  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary, 
which  have  been  removed  within  the  last  few  years. 
The  castle  of  Dunlop,  which  was  taken  down  to  make 
room  for  the  present  modern  mansion,  was  of  great 
antiquity  ;  but  both  the  date  and  the  original  founder 
are  unknown.  Aiket  Castle,  about  a  mile  to  the  south 
of  the  church,  was  for  many  centuries  prior  to  the 
year  1700  inhabited  by  a  branch  of  the  Cunninghame 
family  :  the  original  tower,  which  was  four  stories  in 
height,  and  of  which  the  lower  story  has  a  vaulted  roof 
of  stone,  has  been  lowered  to  make  it  correspond  with 
the  additional  buildings  requisite  for  converting  it  into 
a  dwelling-house.  The  learned  John  Major,  the  tutor 
of  John  Knox,  and  professor  of  theology  in  the  univer- 
sity of  Glasgow,  was  vicar  of  Dunlop ;  and  James 
Hamilton,  Viscount  Clandeboyes,  was  born  in  the  parish, 
of  which  his  father  was  vicar.  Lieutenant-General 
James  Dunlop,  of  Dunlop,  father  of  the  present  pro- 
prietor, was  eminently  distinguished  in  his  military 
profession  ;  his  mother  was  the  early  friend  and  cor- 
respondent of  the  poet  Burns. 

DUNMORE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Airth, 
county  of  Stirling,  8  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from  Stirling; 
containing  153  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  south- 
west side  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  on  the  road  from 
Airth  to  Stirling,  and  has  a  harbour,  now  a  calling-place 
for  the  Stirling  steamers.  The  village  is  small  and  of 
rather  mean  appearance,  but  the  scenery  around  it  is 
peculiarly  beautiful,  and  the  high  grounds  in  the  vicinity 
finely  contrast  with  the  almost  level  plain  of  the  rest  of 
the  parish.  Formerly  an  extensive  coal-mine  was  in 
operation,  but  the  works  were  relinquished  about  the 
year  1S10,  when  more  than  thirty  families  removed 
from  the  neighbourhood.  Dunmore  Park  is  the  hand- 
some seat  of  the  Earl  of  Dunmore,  the  head  of  a  branch 
of  the  noble  family  of  Murray,  dukes  of  Atholl,  Lord 
Charles  Murray,  second  son  of  John,  first  marquess  of 
Atholl,  having  been  created,  in  16S6,  Earl  of  Dunmore, 
Viscount  Fincastle,  and  Lord  Murray  of  Blair,  Moulin, 
and  Tillemot.  The  present  mansion  was  erected  about 
twenty  years  since ;  it  is  a  large  building  in  the  Eliza- 
bethan style,  and  stands  on  an  expansive  lawn,  sur- 
rounded by  grounds  tastefully  laid  out,  and  richly 
planted  with  timber  of  various  kinds  andagrowth.  Here 
is  an  ancient  tower,  one  of  three  in  the  parish.  On 
the  summit  of  Dunmore  hill,  which  is  of  considerable 
height,  are  the  remains  of  a  strong  fortification  ;  and  in 
digging  a  few  years  since,  an  anchor  was  found  im- 
bedded in  the  soil,  at  least  half  a  mile  from  the  present 
course  of  the  river. 

DUNNET,  a  sea-port  and  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Caithness,  9  miles  (E.  N.  E.)  from  Thurso  ;  containing 
1880  inhabitants.  This  parish,  of  which  the  origin  of 
the  name  is  involved  in  obscurity,  is  one  of  the  most 
northerly  in  Scotland,  and  is  about  ten  miles  in  length, 
and  varies  in  breadth  from  two  to  four  miles.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  south  by  the  parish  of  Bower,  on  the 
south-west  by  that  of  Olrig,  on  the  east  by  Cannisbay, 
and  on  the  north  and  north-west  by  the  Pentland  Frith, 
333 


into  which  projects  the  extensive  promontory  of  Dunnet 
Head.  This  head  consists  of  numerous  hills  and  valleys, 
covered  with  fine  pasture  for  cattle  and  sheep,  and 
throughout  its  whole  extent  of  coast,  which  is  about 
nine  miles,  presents  a  front  of  broken  rocks  to  the  sea 
from  100  to  400  feet  high ;  an  isthmus  of  low  land, 
about  two  miles  broad,  connects  it  with  the  rest  of  the 
parish,  but  it  is  entirely  uninhabited.  A  large  number 
of  sea-fowl,  especially  the  layer  or  puffin,  visit  it  during 
the  season  of  incubation.  The  shore  to  the  east  of 
Dunnet  Head  is  low  and  rocky,  and  the  current  of  the 
Frith  during  spring  tides  is  so  exceedingly  strong  that 
no  vessel  can  stem  it,  from  which  circumstance,  and  the 
velocity  of  contiguous  currents  in  opposite  directions, 
the  navigation  here  is  dangerous  to  strangers.  The  bay 
of  Dunnet,  though  it  runs  far  into  the  land,  affords  no 
shelter  for  any  vessel  on  the  north  side,  it  being  ex- 
posed to  the  west ;  but  along  the  Frith  are  several  good 
havens  for  small  craft,  and  of  these,  Brough,  and  Ham 
or  Holm  havens  are  considered  capable  of  great  im- 
provement. In  the  interior,  the  parish  is  of  level  sur- 
face, there  being  scarcely  an  eminence  deserving  the 
name  of  a  hill.  The  larger  portion  consists  of  moss 
and  moor,  and  the  soil  in  the  cultivated  parts  is  in 
general  of  a  light  nature,  with  little  clay  or  loam  ;  in 
some  places  it  is  sandy,  and  in  others  a  light  black  earth 
and  rich  clay.  Adjoining  the  shore  east  of  Dunnet  bay,  is 
a  barren  tract  nearly  two  miles  in  breadth,  which  is  said 
to  have  been  formerly  arable  ground.  The  rock  forma- 
tion at  Dunnet  Head  is  freestone,  and  throughout  the 
rest  of  the  parish  it  is  grey  slate  :  at  Inkstack  are 
some  quarries  of  flagstone,  supplying  materials  for 
pavements,  of  which  considerable  quantities  are  shipped 
for  the  south.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  Dunnet  is 
£4268. 

The  parish  contains  the  three  villages  of  Dunnet, 
Brough,  and  Scarfskerry,  of  which  a  part  of  the  popula- 
tion is  engaged  in  salmon-fishing,  carried  on,  particu- 
larly in  Dunnet  bay,  for  the  last  ten  or  twelve  years 
with  great  success  ;  there  is  also  a  lobster-fishery,  for 
the  supply  of  the  London  market  ;  and  cod,  haddock, 
flounders,  halibut,  and  skate  are  also  obtained.  There 
are  four  fairs,  of  which  the  principal  is  Marymas,  held 
on  the  Tuesday  after  August  15th  (O.  S.)  ;  it  continues 
two  days,  and  is  almost  exclusively  a  cattle  and  horse 
fair  :  the  others  are  held  on  the  first  and  third  Tues- 
days in  October,  and  first  Tuesday  in  April  (O.  S.)  for 
cattle.  Cattle  are  also  conveyed  by  steamers  to  the 
Leith  and  Edinburgh  markets ;  grain  is  generally  shipped 
to  the  same  quarter,  and  meal  is  sent  to  the  weekly  mar- 
kets of  Wick  and  Thurso.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
of  the  parish  are  under  the  presbytery  of  Caithness  and 
synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caithness  ;  patron,  Sir  James 
Colquhoun,  Bart.  The  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £191, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  the  annual  value  of  £12. 
The  church,  which  is  very  ancient,  is  a  plain  oblong 
building,  with  a  tower  at  the  west  end ;  in  1S36-7  it 
underwent  a  thorough  repair,  having  been  re-roofed, 
and  enlarged  by  a  capacious  aisle,  and  it  is  now  a  com- 
modious and  comfortable  place  of  worship.  In  the 
parochial  school  are  taught  the  ordinary  branches  of 
education  ;  the  master  has  the  maximum  salary,  with 
about  £10  from  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  Another 
school  is  supported  by  the  General  Assembly,  and  a 
third  partly  by  Mr.  Traill,  on  whose  property  it  is  built, 


DUNN 


DUNN 


and  partly  by  fees  <  there  are  also  two  female  schools, 
aided  by  the  respective  heritors  and  the  Kirk  Session. 
In  1764,  William  Sinclair,  Esq.,  of  Freswick,  bequeathed 
an  annuity  of  £5.  11.  for  the  poor  of  the  parish;  and 
the  late  Messrs.  Oswald,  of  Glasgow,  left  £600,  now 
vested  in  laud,  for  the  same  purpose.  A  lighthouse  has 
been  built  on  Dunnet  Head,  and  was  first  lighted  on  the 
1st  October,  1S31  ;  it  stands  on  a  precipice,  about  300 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea;  and  from  the  ground  is 
sixty-one  feet  in  height.  It  has  already  proved  of  great 
service  in  preventing  shipwreck  and  guiding  vessels 
through  the  Frith. 

DUNNICHEN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar  ; 
including  the  villages  of  Bowriefauld,  Cotton  of  Lownie, 
Craichie,  Drummetermont,  and  Letham  ;  and  contain- 
ing 1625  inhabitants,  of  whom  54  are  in  the  village  of 
Dunnichen,  3|  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from  Forfar.  This  place, 
which  is  of  considerable  antiquity,  derives  its  name, 
signifying  in  the  Gaelic  language  "  the  hill  or  fort  of  the 
valley,"  from  a  prominent  hill  overlooking  the  vale  of 
Lunan,  and  on  which  are  still  some  remains  of  an 
ancient  fort  of  loose  stones,  though  the  greater  part  has 
been  removed  to  furnish  materials  for  inclosing  the 
lands.  A  battle  is  supposed  to  have  been  fought  here 
at  some  remote  period,  which  tradition  refers  to  the 
time  of  Arthur,  king  of  the  Britons  ;  but  no  authentic 
account  of  it  has  been  recorded,  though  numerous 
graves,  evidently  of  warriors,  have  at  various  times  been 
discovered  by  the  plough,  filled  with  human  bones,  and 
some  of  them  containing  urns  of  red  clay  rudely  orna- 
mented, and  holding  ashes.  The  parish  contains  4024^ 
Scotch  acres  :  the  surface  is  gently  undulated,  rising  in 
some  places  into  hills,  of  which  the  two  highest  are, 
Dunnichen  hill,  having  an  elevation  of  about  S00,  and 
Dunbarrow,  an  elevation  of  700,  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  former  hill,  which  is  cultivated  from  its 
base  to  the  summit,  and  interspersed  with  thriving  plan- 
tations, forms  a  pleasing  feature  in  the  landscape,  and 
commands  a  richly-varied  and  extensive  prospect  over 
the  whole  vale  of  Lunan  to  the  east,  and  Forfar  and 
Strathmore  to  the  west,  the  view  terminating  in  the 
distance  in  the  Grampian  range.  The  Vinney  water, 
which  has  its  source  in  the  parish  of  Forfar,  collects 
various  inconsiderable  tributaries  in  its  course  through 
this  parish,  and  falls  into  the  Lunan  in  Kirkden.  A 
loch  formerly  covered  an  area  of  fifty  acres,  but  it  has 
been  partially  drained,  and  converted  into  pasture  land  ; 
on  the  north  side  of  it  is  a  small  chalybeate  spring, 
strongly  impregnated,  and  near  the  base  of  Dunbarrow 
is  a  much  more  copious  spring,  of  similar  quality  but 
less  power. 

The  soil  in  the  higher  grounds  is  a  shallow  friable 
loam  intermixed  with  sand,  which  becomes  deeper  and 
richer  towards  the  lower  lands,  where  is  generally  a 
clayey  loam.  Of  the  whole  number  of  acres  3112  are 
arable,  400  in  plantations,  and  the  remainder,  of  which 
about  500  acres  might  be  reclaimed  and  brought  into 
cultivation,  is  rough  pasture  and  waste.  The  usual 
crops  are,  grain  of  all  kinds,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the 
system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  advanced  state  ;  bone-dust 
has  been  introduced  for  manure  on  turnip  land,  and 
shell-marl,  by  which  the  soil  in  many  parts  has  been 
much  improved,  is  procured  in  abundance  from  the  lake 
of  Restenneth,  in  the  parish  of  Forfar.  Considerable 
attention  is  paid  to  the  improvement  of  live  stock,  and 


the  dairy-farms  are  well  managed  ;  the  cattle  are  chiefly 
the  Galloway,  with  a  few  of  the  Fife  and  Teeswater 
breeds.  No  sheep  are  reared,  but  great  numbers  are 
sent  hither  from  the  Grampians  to  feed  on  turnips 
during  the  winter,  and  many  cattle  of  all  breeds,  bought 
at  the  neighbouring  fairs,  are  pastured  here.  The  plan- 
tations, being  duly  thinned,  are  in  a  flourishing  state. 
The  substrata  of  the  parish  are  chiefly  sandstone  or 
freestone,  with  portions  of  greenstone  occurring  occa- 
sionally, and  in  detached  situations ;  the  sandstone 
frequently  contains  rounded  pebbles  of  jasper,  quartz, 
and  agate.  In  the  trap  rocks  of  Dunbarrow  is  often 
found  a  siliceous  incrustation,  in  which  rock  crystals  are 
imbedded,  and  in  and  near  the  summit  of  Dunnichen 
are  several  masses  of  granite  and  mica-slate.  The  sand- 
stone, which  is  generally  of  a  greyish  white,  and  some- 
times inclining  to  blue,  is  extensively  quarried  at  Dun- 
nichen :  it  produces  excellent  millstones  and  other 
blocks  of  very  large  dimensions,  which  may  be  easily 
cut,  and  are  susceptible  of  a  high  polish,  but,  if  suffered 
to  remain  long  after  being  taken  from  the  quarry,  ac- 
quire a  degree  of  hardness  that  bids  defiance  to  any 
tool.     The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4600. 

Dunnichen  House  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  south- 
ern slope  of  the  hill,  near  its  base,  and  commands  an 
extensive  and  pleasingly-varied  view ;  the  demesne  is 
richly  planted,  and  is  rapidly  improving  under  the 
spirited  management  of  its  proprietor.  The  principal 
manufacture  carried  on  in  the  parish  is  the  weaving  of 
coarse  linen-cloth  called  Osnaburghs,  and  linens  of  finer 
texture  for  sheeting  and  shirting.  Fairs  are  held  at 
Letham  twice  in  the  year,  for  cattle,  and  the  hiring 
of  farm-servants  ;  and  a  fair  is  also  held  in  the  Kirk- 
ton  on  the  third  Wednesday  in  March,  O.  S.  The 
roads  formerly  afforded  very  few  facilities  of  communi- 
cation with  the  neighbouring  places ;  but  a  new  road 
from  Dundee  to  Brechin  has  been  completed,  greatly 
tending  to  increase  the  intercourse  with  the  larger 
towns.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  su- 
perintendence of  the  presbytery  of  Forfar  and  synod 
of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  stipend 
of  the  incumbent  is  £158,  of  which  £38  are  received 
from  government;  the  manse  was  built  in  1815,  in  a 
very  superficial  manner ;  the  glebe  land  is  valued  at 
£11  per  annum.  The  church,  seated  on  an  eminence 
in  the  small  hamlet  of  Kirkton,  was  erected  in  1.802,  but 
from  the  dampness  of  the  situation,  and  the  bad  con- 
struction of  the  roof,  which  was  covered  with  flags  of 
sandstone,  it  was  found  necessary,  in  1817,  to  cover  it 
with  a  new  roof  of  slate  ;  it  is  a  plain  edifice  adapted 
for  a  congregation  of  456  persons.  There  are  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church  and  Con- 
gregationalists  ;  the  linen-hall  of  the  village  of  Letham 
is  also  appropriated  as  a  place  of  worship  by  Seceders. 
The  parochial  school,  situated  in  the  hamlet  of  Crai- 
chie, affords  a  liberal  course  of  instruction  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the 
fees  average  about  £6  per  annum.  On  the  area  of 
the  ancient  fort  was  found,  after  the  removal  of  the 
stones  of  the  building,  a  thick  bed  of  ashes  mixed  with 
numerous  human  bones,  and  in  one  part  was  discovered 
a  number  of  small  golden  balls  thought  to  have  been 
the  current  coin  of  the  realm  at  the  period  of  its  erec- 
tion. The  late  George  Dempster,  Esq.,  for  many  years 
representative  of  the  county,  was  a  native  of  the  place. 


DUNN 


DUNN 


DUNNING,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth  ;  in- 
cluding the  village  of  Newtown  of  Pitcairns,  and  con- 
taining 2128  inhabitants,  of  whom  1068  are  in  the 
village  of  Dunning,  9  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Perth.  This 
parish,  supposed  to  take  its  name  from  the  Gaelic  term 
dim,  signifying  a  hill  or  fort,  contains  the  remains  of 
three  military  stations  called  Ardargie,  Rossie  Law, 
and  Ternavie,  which  are  thought  to  have  belonged  to  a 
line  of  forts  constructed  by  Agricola  along  the  northern 
base  of  the  Ochil  hills,  where  the  parish  lies,  and 
stretching  to  Ardoch,  and  thence  to  the  -wall  of  Anto- 
ninus. This  supposition  is  corroborated  by  the  cir- 
cumstance of  Roman  armour  and  numerous  human 
bones  having  been  dug  up  in  the  locality ;  and  the 
proximity  of  the  Pictish  station  Forteviot,  and  the  traces 
of  many  fortifications,  lead  to  the  conclusion  that  this 
was  subsequently  the  arena  of  several  sanguinary  con- 
flicts. The  family  of  Rollo,  descended  from  Eric  de 
Rollo,  who  came  over  with  William  the  Conqueror  as 
secretary,  were  first  located  in  this  place,  where  they 
have  since  remained,  in  the  time  of  David  I.,  who  gave 
considerable  possessions  to  Richard  de  Rollo,  a  son  or 
grandson  of  Eric  :  the  estate  in  1512  was  erected  into 
a  free  barony,  and  in  1651  Sir  Andrew  Rollo,  Knt., 
was  created  by  Charles  II.  Baron  Rollo,  of  Duncruib, 
the  name  of  the  property  belonging  to  this  ancient 
family.  The  village  of  Dunning  was  burnt  to  the  ground 
in  January,  1716,  with  many  others,  by  the  Earl  of  Mar, 
in  order  to  arrest  the  progress  of  the  royal  troops  ; 
and  to  perpetuate  the  remembrance  of  this  a  thorn-tree 
was  planted,  which  is  still  in  a  flourishing  condition, 
and  an  object  of  curiosity  and  veneration. 

The  parish  extends  in  length  about  seven  miles,  from 
north  to  south,  and  four   in  breadth,  comprehending  an 
extensive  tract  of   cultivated   land,    and    200    acres  of 
plantations  :    one-third   of  the  whole   lies    among   the 
Ochil  hills,  in  which  rises  the  Dunning,  a  stream  that 
falls,  after  a  rapid  course  over  a  gravelly  bed,  into  the 
river  Earn.     A  lake  called  the  White  Moss,  situated  in 
the  western  portion,  containing  many  small    fish,   and 
frequented  by  large  flocks  of  wild  ducks,  covers  about 
eleven  acres  of  ground,  and  forms,  with  the  lively  burn, 
a  pleasing  and  interesting  object  in  the  general  scenery ; 
and   the   lofty  Ochils,   depastured  by  numerous   flocks 
of  sheep,  and   here  stretching  along  the   south-eastern 
boundary  of  the    county,   exhibit  a  bold  and  striking 
outline,     replete    with     romantic     features     which    can 
scarcely  fail    to    captivate  the  admirer  of  the  beauties 
of  nature.     The  soil  along  the  banks  of  the  Earn  is 
light  and  sandy,  but  in  the  other  parts  generally  clayey 
or  gravelly,  and  the  crops  are  raised  under  the  rotation 
system.     The  farm-houses  are  commodious,  and  roofed 
with  slate ;  among  the  improvements  carried  on,  that 
of  draining  marshy  grounds  has  been  extensively  prac- 
tised, and  several  tracts,  especially  one  called  the  White 
Bog,  have  been  converted  into  good  arable  land.     The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £9000.     Quarries 
of  common  stone,  of  firm  texture,  are  open  in  several 
parts,  and  a  bed  of  white    freestone    has    been   lately 
discovered ;  whinstone  is  abundant  in  the  Ochils,  and 
fragments  of  quartz  are  carried  along  the  streams.     The 
plantations  are  detached  and  of  small  extent,  and  con- 
sist of  oak,  fir,  ash,  elm,  and  poplar :  the  garden  be- 
longing to  the  mansion  of  Duncruib,  the  seat  of  Lord 
Rollo,  is  ornamented  with  a  fine  spruce-tree,  planted  in 
335 


1/07,  of  great  bulk,  elevation,  and  beauty.  The  modern 
residences  are  the  houses  of  Pitcairns  and  Garvock. 
The  village  of  Dunning  is  held  in  feu  from  Lord  Rollo, 
and  is  governed  by  a  baron-bailie  ;  it  has  many  good 
houses,  a  public  reading-room,  and  a  post-office,  and  in 
place  of  a  gaol  there  is  an  instrument  of  punishment 
called  the  jougs.  A  large  proportion  of  the  population 
of  the  parish  are  cotton-weavers,  and  obtain  work  from 
Glasgow;  a  wool-mill  employs  many  hands,  and  there 
are  three  corn-mills,  a  flour-mill,  a  saw-mill,  two  malt- 
mills,  a  distillery,  and  a  brewery.  Three  fairs  are  an- 
nually held.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Auch- 
terarder  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling,  and  in  the 
patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Kinnoull ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £239,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  eight  and  a  quarter 
acres,  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The  church,  which 
was  rebuilt  in  1810,  is  conveniently  situated  in  the 
village,  and  contains  1000  sittings,  all  free.  The  mem- 
bers of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship  ;  and 
there  are  two  meeting-houses  belonging  to  the  United 
Associate  Synod,  one  to  Original  Seceders,  and  one  to  the 
Relief  persuasion.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruc- 
tion in  Latin  and  the  ordinary  branches  ;  the  master 
has  the  maximum  salary,  with  about  £50  fees. 

DUNNOTTAR,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Kincar- 
dine ;  containing,  with  the  village  of  Crawton,  and  a  por- 
tion of  the  town  of  Stonehaven,  1873  inhabitants.  This 
place,  of  which  the  Gaelic  name  is  descriptive  of  the  situa- 
tion of  its  ancient  castle  on  a  peninsular  promontory,  ap- 
pears to  have  been  distinguished  as  the  scene  of  some  im- 
portant, events  connected  with  the  history  of  the  country. 
The  castle  is  by  some  writers  supposed  to  have  been 
originally  founded  by  the  Picts,  to  whom  the  great  tower, 
which  is  evidently  the  most  ancient  part  of  the  structure, 
is  traditionally  attributed,  but  the  earliest  authentic 
notice  of  it  occurs  during  the  contest  between  Bruce 
and  Baliol,  when  Wallace,  who  had  assumed  the  regency, 
wrested  it  from  the  English,  by  whom  it  was  garrisoned. 
Some  records  in  the  possession  of  the  Marischals  assign 
the  erection  of  the  castle  to  Sir  William  Keith,  an  ances- 
tor of  that  family,  who  in  the  fourteenth  century  obtained 
permission  to  construct  a  fortress  on  the  site,  on  condi- 
tion of  building  a  church  in  a  more  convenient  situation, 
in  lieu  of  the  ancient  parish  church,  which  stood  within  the 
precincts  of  the  present  ruins.  The  fortress  was  one  of 
the  strongest  in  the  country,  and  remained  for  many  ages 
in  possession  of  the  family  of  Keith,  the  first  of  whom, 
in  the  reign  of  Malcolm  II.,  having  killed  in  battle  the 
Danish  general  Comus,  had  been  rewarded  with  a  grant 
of  lands  in  Lothian,  and  invested  with  the  title  of  Great 
Marischal  of  Scotland.  During  the  parliamentary  w7ar 
in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.,  the  regalia  were  for  security 
deposited  in  the  castle,  which  General  Ogilvy,  who  was 
then  in  command,  defended  for  more  than  six  months 
against  the  forces  of  Cromwell,  under  General  Lambert, 
in  1651,  till,  severely  pressed  by  famine,  he  was  compelled 
to  capitulate,  having  previously  conveyed  the  regalia  in 
safety  to  Kinneff,  through  the  assistance  of  the  governor's 
lady,  and  Mrs.  Granger,  wife  of  the  minister  of  that 
parish,  where  they  were  concealed  under  the  pulpit  of 
the  church  till  the  Restoration.  For  this  service,  the 
king  created  the  earl-marischal's  second  son  Earl  of 
Kintore,  and  invested  the  general  with  the  title  of 
baronet.  George,  the  last  earl-marischal,  having  joined 
in  the  rebellion  of  1715,  the  title   and  estates   of  the 


DUNN 


D  U  NO 


family  were  forfeited  to  the  crown  ;  and  the  castle,  which 
had  been  previously  purchased  by  government,  was 
dismantled,  and  has  since  been  a  ruin. 

The  parish  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Aberdeen  to 
Edinburgh  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parish  of 
Fetterresso,  on  the  east  by  the  German  Ocean,  on  the 
south  by  the  parish  of  Kinneff,  and  on  the  west  by  that 
of  Glenbervie.  The  surface  is  boldly  diversified  with 
hills,  of  which  Carmount,  at  the  extremity  of  an  exten- 
sive heath  of  that  name,  has  an  elevation  of  more  than 
S00  feet,  and  with  successive  ridges  for  nearly  three 
miles  towards  the  north-west.  The  coast,  is  abruptly 
precipitous,  consisting  of  a  range  of  cliffs  in  detached 
masses,  rising  from  150  to  300  feet  in  height.  In  these 
cliffs  are  numerous  caverns  worn  by  the  action  of  the 
waves,  of  which  one,  called  the  Long  Gallery,  under  a 
lofty  promontory,  extends  for  more  than  150  yards  in 
length,  and  affords  a  channel  through  which  a  boat  may 
pass  from  the  bay  at  its  entrance  to  another  at  its  outlet. 
To  the  south  of  this  cavern  is  Fowlsheugh,  the  highest  of 
the  rocks  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  and  the  haunt  of 
numbers  of  aquatic  birds  of  every  description,  that 
build  their  nests  and  hatch  their  young  in  these  almost 
inaccessible  heights.  The  entire  number  of  acres  is 
8156,  of  which  4S60  are  arable,  690  woodland  and  plan- 
tations, and  2606  natural  pasture  and  uncultivated  waste; 
the  soil  is  various,  consisting  in  different  parts  of  clay, 
loam,  sand,  and  gravel,  and  being  frequently  found  in  all 
these  varieties  on  the  same  farm.  The  system  of  agri- 
culture has  been  much  improved,  and  the  rotation  plan 
of  husbandry  is  in  use  ;  much  unprofitable  land  has  been 
brought  into  cultivation;  the  farm-buildings  are  in  general 
substantial  and  commodious,  and  great  attention  is  paid 
to  live  stock.  There  are  few  sheep  reared  ;  the  cattle  are 
usually  of  the  black  kind,  and  are  mostly  sold  when  two 
years  old.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£8768.  The  woods  are,  oak,  ash,  and  beech,  of  which 
there  are  many  fine  specimens,  on  the  lands  of  Auquhirie; 
and  the  plantations,  whereof  the  most  extensive  are  on  the 
estate  of  General  Forbes,  are,  pine,  larch,  and  Scotch 
and  spruce  firs,  intermixed  with  various  kinds  of  hard- 
wood, all  of  which,  with  the  exception  of  the  Scotch  fir, 
thrive  well.  The  moorlands  abound  with  every  kind  of 
game;  partridges  in  great  numbers,  and  some  few  phea- 
sants, are  found,  and  snipes,  wild  ducks,  and  teal  are 
plentiful.  The  rocks  on  the  coast  are  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  pudding-stone  formation,  with  portions  of 
trap  and  porphyritic  granite,  and  occasionally  of  columnar 
basalt ;  sandstone  is  extensively  quarried,  and  a  species 
of  flag,  formerly  in  use  for  roofing,  is  also  wrought  to  a 
moderate  extent.  Dunnottar  House,  the  seat  of  General 
Forbes,  is  a  spacious  mansion  surrounded  with  rich  and 
flourishing  plantations ;  the  grounds  are  tastefully  laid 
out,  and  the  gardens  attached  to  the  house  were  formed  at 
an  expense  of  £10,000.  Barras,  the  ancient  seat  of  the 
Ogilvys,  is  now  a  farm-house.  The  weaving  of  linen  is 
carried  on  to  a  small  extent,  and  many  of  the  inhabitants 
are  engaged  in  the  fisheries  and  other  branches  of  trade  in 
the  town  of  Stonehaven  :  Crawton,  in  the  south-eastern 
portion  of  the  parish,  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  persons  em- 
ployed in  the  white-fishery,  which  is  extensively  carried 
on  off  this  part  of  the  coast.  Facility  of  communication 
with  the  neighbouring  markets  is  afforded  by  good  roads 
in  every  direction  ;  along  the  sea- coast  is  the  high  road 
to  Edinburgh,  and  the  Strathmore  turnpike-road  passes 
336 


through  the  interior  of  the  parish.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery 
of  Fourdoun  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the  minis- 
ter's stipend  is  £233,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued 
at  £8  per  annum ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  church, 
erected  on  the  site  of  the  former  building  in  1789,  is  a 
neat  and  commodious  structure  pleasingly  situated.  The 
parochial  school  is  in  Stonehaven,  and  is  well  attended ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  gar- 
den, and  the  fees  average  £46.  The  remains  of  Dun- 
nottar Castle  are  very  extensive,  occupying  an  area  of 
five  acres  on  the  summit  of  an  abrupt  and  precipitous 
cliff,  boldly  projecting  from  the  mainland,  with  which  it 
is  connected  by  an  isthmus  nearly  covered  by  the  sea  at 
high  water;  the  great  tower  is  still  almost  entire  ;  and 
the  various  ranges  of  building,  which,  though  roofless,  are 
in  tolerable  preservation,  convey  an  impressive  idea  of 
its  former  grandeur  and  importance.  In  the  church- 
yard is  a  gravestone  to  the  memory  of  some  Covenanters 
who  were  confined  in  the  castle;  and  here  Sir  Walter 
Scott,  then  on  a  visit  to  the  minister  of  the  parish,  is  said 
to  have  had  his  first  interview  with  the  individual  whom, 
in  his  Antiquary,  he  describes  under  the  appellation  of 
"  Old  Mortality." 

DUNOON"  and  KILMUN,  a  parish,  in  the  district 
of  Cowal,  county  of  Argyll,  7\  miles  (W.  byS.)  from 
Greenock;  containing  4211  inhabitants.  The  early  his- 
tory of  this  parish  is  involved  in  great  obscurity,  and 
rests  chiefly  on  tradition.  Its  castle,  of  which  neither 
the  date  nor  the  founder  is  distinctly  known,  anciently 
belonged  to  the  hereditary  high  stewards  of  Scot- 
land, to  whom  Malcolm  gave  a  grant  of  lands  in  the 
district  in  the  eleventh  century.  During  the  contested 
succession  to  the  throne,  the  castle  was  besieged  by 
Baliol,  to  whom  it  surrendered  in  1333;  but  in  the  fol- 
lowing year  it  was  re-captured  by  Robert  Bruce,  and 
placed  under  the  custody  of  the  Campbells,  ancestors 
of  the  Argyll  family,  who  were  appointed  hereditary 
constables,  and  also  lords  of  Cowal.  The  Earl  of  Len- 
nox, while  seeking  to  become  regent  of  the  kingdom, 
appeared  in  the  Clyde  with  a  fleet,  in  1554,  and,  having 
made  himself  master  of  Rothesay,  proceeded  to  this 
place,  and  laid  siege  to  the  castle,  which  was  held  by  his 
powerful  opponent,  Archibald,  Earl  of  Argyll,  whom  he 
compelled  to  retreat  with  severe  loss.  In  1563,  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots,  paid  a  visit  to  the  Countess  of  Argyll, 
in  her  progress  through  the  west,  and,  during  her  resi- 
dence here,  granted  several  charters  to  the  inhabitants 
of  the  district,  which  are  still  extant.  The  castle  con- 
tinued in  the  possession  of  the  earls  of  Argyll  till  the 
end  of  the  seventeenth  century,  since  which  time  it  has 
been  suffered  to  fall  into  ruin  :  the  remains  consist  only 
of  part  of  one  of  the  towers,  in  a  dilapidated  state, 
affording  but  a  very  inadequate  idea  of  the  original 
buildings,  which  appear  to  have  covered  an  acre  of 
ground.  Kilmun,  formerly  a  separate  parish,  is  sup- 
posed to  have  derived  its  name  from  the  erection  of 
a  church  dedicated  to  St.  Mun  near  the  shore  of  the 
Holy  loch,  upon  the  spot,  where  a  stranded  vessel  from 
the  Holy  Land,  laden  with  consecrated  earth  for  the 
foundation  of  the  cathedral  of  Glasgow,  deposited  what 
portion  of  her  cargo  could  be  saved  from  the  wreck. 
A  collegiate  church  was  subsequently  founded  here,  and 
endowed  for  a  provost  and  six  prebendaries  in  1442,  by 
Sir  Duncan  Campbell,  of  Lochawe,  first  lord  of  Argyll, 


DUNO 


D  UN  R 


and  grandfather  of  Colin  Campbell,  the  first  earl ;  the 
only  portion  now  entire  is  the  square  tower,  about  forty- 
feet  in  height. 

Dunoon  is  bounded  on  the  south  and  east  by  the 
Frith  of  Clyde,  and  Kilmun  by  Loch  Long  on  the  east, 
and  partly  by  the  Holy  loch,  an  inlet  from  the  Frith, 
which  on  the  south  separates  a  portion  of  it  from 
Dunoon  :  the  districts  were  united  about  the  year  1660, 
and  are  together  24  miles  in  length  and  from  two  to 
nine  in  breadth,  comprising  144  square  miles.  The 
surface  is  boldly  varied  with  hills  and  valleys,  and 
towards  the  shores  of  the  Clyde,  along  the  greater  part 
of  it,  slopes  gently  to  a  level  plain  ;  the  interior  is  inter- 
sected with  several  mountainous  ridges  in  various  direc- 
tions, of  which  that  forming  part  of  the  range  of  hills 
in  the  vicinity  of  Benmore  is  the  most  elevated.  These 
ranges  are  the  boundaries  of  some  extensive  valleys 
which  they  inclose  between  their  steep  acclivities,  and 
of  which  the  principal  are,  Strath-Echaig,  about  two 
miles  in  breadth,  and  extending  for  nearly  four  miles 
to  Loch  Eck,  which  thence  forms  its  continuation  for 
about  seven  miles  ;  Glenfinart,  three  miles  in  length,  and, 
like  the  former,  richly  wooded ;  and  Glenmassan ;  all 
abounding  with  romantic  scenery.  Numerous  moun- 
tain streams,  many  of  them  having  pleasing  cascades, 
traverse  the  parish ;  but  the  only  one  that  can  be  called 
a  river  is  the  Echaig,  which  issues  from  Loch  Eck, 
and,  after  a  course  of  about  four  miles  through  the  vale 
of  Echaig,  in  which  it  receives  the  Massan  and  another 
stream,  falls  into  the  Holy  loch.  Loch  Eck,  of  which 
about  one-half  is  within  the  parish,  is  nearly  seven 
miles  in  length,  and  half  a  mile  broad  ;  the  banks  are 
precipitous  and  well  wooded,  and  the  scenery  around 
beautifully  diversified.  The  soil  is  generally  a  light 
sandy  loam  of  no  great  depth,  and  in  some  parts  of  the 
valleys  deeper  and  of  richer  quality.  The  crops  are, 
oats,  a  very  little  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  wheat 
was  formerly  raised  but  has  been  abandoned  :  the  pas- 
tures are  good,  and  great  attention  is  paid  to  live  stock. 
The  system  of  agriculture  is  improved  ;  the  lands  in 
cultivation  are  well  drained,  and  considerable  tracts  of 
waste  have  been  reclaimed  and  rendered  productive. 
The  cattle  are  of  the  West  Highland  breed,  with  the 
exception  of  some  of  the  Ayrshire  on  the  dairy-farms ; 
and  the  sheep  of  the  black-faced  kind,  with  a  few  of 
the  Leicestershire  and  Cheviot  breeds.  The  substrata 
are  chiefly  mica  and  clay  slate,  sandstone  of  the  old  red 
formation,  and  in  some  parts  limestone,  but  of  very 
inferior  quality  ;  there  are  quarries  of  slate  and  free- 
stone, but  they  are  not  extensively  wrought.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £15,754. 

The  principal  seat  is  Castle  Toward,  a  handsome 
mansion  in  the  later  English  style,  erected  by  the  late 
Kirkman  Finlay,  Esq.,  and  situated  in  an  ample  and 
richly-wooded  demesne,  commanding  extensive  and 
varied  prospects.  Hafton  House  is  in  the  Elizabethan 
style,  and  beautifully  seated  on  the  western  shore  of  the 
Holy  loch,  in  an  extensive  park  embracing  fine  views 
of  the  Frith.  Glenfinart  House  is  a  spacious  modern 
building  iu  the  old  English  style,  erected  on  the  site  of 
a  mansion  occupied  by  the  late  Earl  of  Duumore,  on 
the  shore  of  Loch  Long,  at  the  opening  of  the  valley  of 
Glenfinart :  Benmore  House,  Bernice,  and  the  Castle 
House,  near  the  ancient  castle  of  Dunoon,  are  also 
handsome  mansions  beautifully  situated.  The  village 
Vol.  I.— 337 J 


of  Dunoon  is  on  the  margin  of  the  Clyde,  and  is  much 
frequented  during  the  summer  months  by  parties  on 
excursions  of  pleasure ;  the  houses  are  neatly  built,  and 
numerous  pleasing  villas  have  been  erected.  The  small 
village  of  Kilmun,  on  the  northern  shore  of  the  Holy 
loch,  is  also  a  place  of  favourite  resort.  Though  not 
recognized  as  a  port,  a  pier  or  jetty  has  been  con- 
structed at  Dunoon  for  the  accommodation  of  passen- 
gers by  the  steam-packets  which  touch  at  the  place ; 
and  a  substantial  quay  has  also  been  erected  at  Kil- 
mun. The  only  trade  is  the  shipping  of  cattle,  sheep, 
and  agricultural  produce,  for  Liverpool  and  other  English 
markets  ;  a  schooner  of  eighty  tons'  burthen  was  lately 
built  here,  and  is  now  employed  in  the  foreign  trade. 
There  are  post-offices  at  Dunoon,  Kilmun,  and  Arden- 
tinny,  the  first  having  two  daily  deliveries  in  winter 
and  three  in  summer,  and  the  others  one  delivery  each  ; 
facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  good  roads, 
and  by  the  steamers  from  Glasgow,  Greenock,  and 
other  ports  in  the  Clyde.  Fairs  are  held  on  the  second 
Wednesday  in  January,  February,  August,  and  Octo- 
ber, and  the  third  Tuesday  in  November  (O.  S.). 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  presbytery  of  Dunoon  and  synod  of 
Argyll.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £275)  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £36.  17.  per  annum  ;  patron,  the 
Duke  of  Argyll.  The  church  at  Dunoon  was  erected  in 
1816;  it  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  later  English 
style,  with  a  square  embattled  tower,  and  since  its 
enlargement  in  1S34  contains  793  sittings.  The  pre- 
sent church  at  Kilmun  was  erected  in  1841  ;  it  is  also 
a  handsome  building,  with  a  tower  of  loftier  elevation 
than  that  of  the  ancient  church,  which  is  still  remain- 
ing. Chapels  of  ease  have  been  built  at  Toward  and 
Ardentinny,  partly  by  subscription,  aided  by  grants 
from  the  Church  Extension  fund ;  they  are  under  the 
charge  of  missionaries,  who  receive  from  £70  to  £90 
each  from  funds  subscribed  for  that  purpose.  A  third 
missionary  has  a  similar  stipend  for  assisting  the  minis- 
ter of  the  parish,  who  officiates  alternately  in  each  of 
the  two  churches.  There  are  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church  and  the  United  Associate 
Synod.  Parochial  schools  are  supported  at  Dunoon, 
Kilmun,  and  Toward  ;  the  master  of  Dunoon  has  a 
salary  of  £30,  of  Kilmun  £25,  and  of  Toward  £22,  each 
with  a  house  and  garden,  in  addition  to  the  fees.  Two 
schools  are  maintained  by  the  General  Assembly,  of 
which  the  masters  have  salaries  of  £25  each,  one  at 
Dalilongard,  and  the  other  at  Ardentinny  ;  and  a  female 
school  of  industry,  of  which  the  mistress  has  a  salary  of 
£30,  with  a  house  and  garden,  is  supported  by  an  associa- 
tion of  ladies.  There  is  also  a  school  in  connexion  with 
seceders.  Some  vestiges  remain  of  what  is  supposed  to 
have  been  a  Roman  camp,  on  the  farm  of  Ardinslat ; 
Druidical  remains  still  exist,  and  various  stone  coffins  of 
rude  formation,  containing  skeletons  in  a  perfect  state, 
have  been  found.  There  are  also  ruins  of  the  castle  of 
Toward,  the  ancient  baronial  residence  of  the  Lamonts. 

DUNREGGAN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Glen- 
cairn,  county  of  Dumfries,  5|  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from 
Penpont ;  containing  277  inhabitants.  It  is  a  well-built 
and  thriving  place,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Dal- 
what  stream,  over  which  is  a  stone  bridge,  forming  a 
communication  with  the  village  of  Minnyhive  :  the 
population  has  latterly  considerably  increased. 

2  X 


DUNR 


DUNS 


DUNROSSNESS,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Shet- 
land ;  including  the  islands  of  Fair  and  Mousa,  and 
the  late  quoad  sacra  district  of  Sandwick  and  Cunnings- 
burgh  ;  and  containing  4494  inhabitants.  This  parish 
is  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Mainland, 
and  forms  the  principal  part  of  a  peninsula,  washed  on 
the  east,  south,  and  west  by  the  sea.  The  shore,  though 
not  so  deeply  indented  with  inlets  as  that  of  most 
other  parts  of  the  Shetland  isles,  is  still  very  irregular 
in  its  outline,  and  contains  several  voes ;  the  chief  are 
Greetness  and  West  voe,  which,  with  Quendal  bay, 
border  on  Sumburgh  head,  the  most  southerly  point  of 
the  Mainland,  rendered  classical  by  Sir  Walter  Scott's 
Pirate,  and  on  which  an  excellent  lighthouse  was  erected 
a  few  years  since,  at  an  expense  of  about  £40,000. 
Among  the  islands  in  the  parish  are  those  of  Colsay, 
Mousa,  St.  Ninian's,  and  Fair  Island,  which  are  used 
chiefly  for  the  pasturage  of  sheep  and  cattle,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  the  last,  are  inconsiderable.  The  ex- 
posure of  Dunrossness  is  remarkably  bleak  and  stormy, 
and  occasionally  whole  farms  are  destroyed  by  the  drift- 
ing of  sand,  and  inlets  filled  up  which  before  had  been 
used  as  creeks  or  harbours  ;  but  the  district  yields  to 
very  few,  if  any,  in  Shetland,  in  the  fertility  of  its  soil 
and  the  quality  of  the  crops.  The  lochs  of  Skelberry 
and  Scousburgh.  in  winter,  are  the  resort  of  wild  swans ; 
and  eagles,  ravens,  and  hawks,  with  a  great  variety  of 
wild-fowl,  frequent  the  shores.  At  this  time  of  the 
year,  also,  the  stormy  seas,  and  the  dreary  tracts  of 
peat-moss,  invest  the  locality  with  a  wild  and  uninviting 
appearance  ;  but  at  other  periods  the  scene  is  greatly 
altered,  and  especially  during  the  operations  of  harvest 
and  fishing  every  thing  wears  a  pleasing  aspect. 

The  soil  of  the  lands  under  cultivation  is  various, 
comprehending  sand,  loam,  and  clay,  and  the  crops 
consist  principally  of  bear,  black  oats,  and  potatoes  ; 
ploughs,  drawn  by  horses,  are  used  in  some  parts,  but 
most  of  the  small  farms  are  turned  by  the  spade,  and 
husbandry,  as  in  all  other  districts  of  Shetland,  is  made 
entirely  subordinate  to  the  occupation  of  fishing.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £1665.  At  a 
place  called  Fit.fill,  copper-ore  was  wrought  some  years 
since,  and  shafts  were  also  sunk  at  Sand-lodge,  in  Sand- 
wick, but  the  operations,  proving  unsuccessful,  were 
shortly  abandoned.  The  inhabitants  are  engaged  in  the 
ordinary  kinds  of  fishing,  and  three  or  four  vessels  come 
annually  to  Levenwick  bay,  from  Rothesay,  to  receive 
the  herrings  immediately  after  they  are  taken.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  trade  in  fish,  considerable  quantities  of  pota- 
toes of  very  good  quality,  as  well  as  of  oats  and  bear, 
are  sent  to  Lerwick  for  sale;  and  a  small  profit  is  annu- 
ally derived  from  the  manufacture  of  kelp.  The  parish 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Lerwick  and  synod  of  Shetland, 
and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Zetland.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £208,  exclusive  of  a  vicarage-tithe 
on  a  certain  number  of  lambs  and  quantities  of  butter 
and  wool ;  there  is  a  manse,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at 
£8  per  annum.  The  church  was  built  in  1790,  and 
contains  858  sittings  ;  and  on  Fair  isle  is  another  church, 
a  substantial  edifice,  erected  by  the  then  proprietor  of 
the  island,  many  years  ago  ;  it  affords  accommodation 
to  about  150  persons.  There  are  meeting-houses  for 
Baptists  and  Methodists.  The  parochial  school  is  situ- 
ated in  the  Sandwick  district,  and  at  Cunningsburgh  is 
a  school  supported  by  the  Society  for  Promoting  Chris- 
338 


tian  Knowledge ;  in  each  of  those  places  a  library  has 
lately  been  instituted,  and  another  is  established  in 
Dunrossness. 

DUNSCORE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dumfries, 
9  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Dumfries ;  containing,  with  the 
village  of  Cottack,  1517  inhabitants.  This  place  is  not 
remarkable  for  any  events  of  historical  importance, 
but  it  was  formerly  the  seat  of  some  families  of  con- 
siderable antiquity,  the  chief  of  whom  were,  the  Grier- 
sons  of  Lag,  of  Chapel,  and  of  Dalgoner,  the  Kirks 
or  Kirkhoes  of  Bogrie  and  Sundaywell,  and  the  Kirk- 
patricks  of  Elliesland  and  Friars'  Carse.  The  Grier- 
sons  possessed  the  tower  of  Lag,  now  a  ruin,  for  many 
generations,  Gilbert  M'Gregor  or  Grierson  having  mi- 
grated from  the  Highlands  about  the  year  1408,  and 
obtained  the  lands  from  John  Mc  Wrath,  who  in  the 
conveyance  deed  is  described  as  armour-bearer  to  Archi- 
bald, Earl  of  Douglas.  A  descendant  of  this  family 
joined  the  Maxwells  of  Nithsdale,  against  the  John- 
stones  of  Annandale,  and  fought  at  the  famous  battle  of 
Dryfe-Sands  in  1593  ;  and  there  is  still  a  lineal  repre- 
sentative of  the  family  remaining  in  the  parish.  Con- 
siderable estates  at  Dunscore  were  given  to  the  monks 
of  Melrose  by  Affrica,  daughter  of  Edgar,  son  of  Dune- 
vald  and  grandson  of  Dunegal  of  Stranith,  a  term  im- 
plying "  the  strath  or  valley  of  Nith  :"'  Edgar  had  pos- 
sessed the  lands  under  William  the  Lion,  and  been 
succeeded  in  them  by  his  daughter,  who  assigned  so 
large  a  portion  to  the  monks.  The  benefice  of  Dun- 
score,  however,  belonged  to  the  monastery  of  Holy- 
wood,  and  the  cure  was  served  by  a  vicar.  The  parish 
contains  some  lands  called  the  Friars'  Carse,  formerly 
a  monkish  residence  dependent  on  the  establishment  of 
Melrose ;  a  small  loch  on  the  property,  containing  an 
artificial  island,  is  said  to  have  been  the  ancient  fish- 
pond, and  the  island  the  place  where  the  monks  hid  their 
valuables  when  the  English  invaded  Stranith. 

The  parish  is  twelve  miles  long,  and  varies  in  breadth 
from  half  a  mile  to  three  miles  and  a  half,  containing 
12,500  acres.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  pa- 
rishes of  Glencairn  and  Keir ;  on  the  south  by  the 
parish  of  Holywood  and  the  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright; 
on  the  east  by  the  river  Nith,  which  separates  it  from 
Kirkmahoe  ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  loch  and  water  of 
Urr,  dividing  it  from  the  stewartry.  The  surface  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  Nith  is  flat,  but  in  other  parts  it 
is  greatly  diversified  with  hills  and  valleys  ;  in  the  upper 
district  it  is  mountainous  and  rocky,  and  Bogrie,  the 
most  elevated  hill,  rises  more  than  1200  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  Solway  Frith.  The  Nith  runs  for  two  miles 
along  the  boundary  ;  and  the  Cairn,  a  much  more  rapid 
stream,  over  which  is  a  bridge  eighty  feet  in  span 
divides  the  parish  into  two  parts,  and,  after  receiving 
the  Clouden,  falls  into  the  Nith  a  little  below  Irongray. 
The  soil  in  the  lower  district  is  a  light  gravelly  or  sandy 
earth  ;  the  holm  land  on  the  banks  of  the  Nith  and 
Cairn  is  alluvial ;  in  the  upper  parts  the  soil  is  mostly  a 
kind  of  loam,  in  a  tilly  subsoil,  and  very  stony.  There 
are  also  occasional  patches,  as  well  as  considerable 
tracts,  of  peat-moss.  The  soil  in  general  is  thin  and 
dry,  except  on  the  holm  land,  where  it  is  much  richer 
and  deeper;  the  hills  in  many  places  are  almost  bare,  and 
exhibit  on  the  rocky  surface  nothing  but  heath.  Fully 
three-fourths  of  the  land  are  under  cultivation  ;  500 
acres  are  meadow,  250  plantation,  chiefly  larch  and  fir, 


DUNS 


DUNS 


and  60  natural  wood,  consisting  of  birch  and  oak.  All 
kinds  of  grain  are  raised,  as  well  as  green  crops  ;  agri- 
culture has  been  gradually  advancing  for  some  time 
past,  and  improvements  have  been  effected  in  every  de- 
partment. On  the  estates  of  Allanton,  Dalgoner,  Friars' 
Carse,  and  Stroquhan,  are  good  and  substantial  man- 
sion-houses. The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  employed  in 
husbandry,  but  weaving  is  also  carried  on,  though  to 
an  inconsiderable  extent.  The  Glasgow  and  Dumfries 
turnpike-road  passes  through  the  parish,  from  which  a 
branch  strikes  oif  at  the  lodge  of  Friars'  Carse,  leading 
westward  through  Balmaclellan  to  New  Galloway  ;  there 
is  also  a  road  intersecting  the  parish  from  Dumfries  to 
Ayr.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  Dunscore  is  £S900. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  pres- 
bytery of  Dumfries  and  synod  of  Dumfries ;  patron, 
the  Crown.  There  is  a  good  manse,  with  a  glebe  of 
fifty-one  acres,  and  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  the 
minimum,  with  an  addition  of  £12.  12.,  voluntarily  given 
by  the  heritors  since  1793.  The  church,  standing  in 
the  village  of  Cottack,  in  the  centre  of  the  parish, 
is  a  well-built  structure,  surmounted  with  an  elegant 
square  tower  at  the  west  end;  it  was  erected  in  1823, 
and  contains  850  persons.  The  members  of  the  Free 
Church  have  a  place  of  worship,  and  there  is  a  meeting- 
house belonging  to  the  Relief  Synod.  Three  paro- 
chial schools  are  supported,  in  which  the  classics,  with 
all  the  usual  branches  of  education,  are  taught ;  about 
£51  are  portioned  equally  among  the  masters,  who  also 
receive  the  interest  of  £300  bequeathed  about  a  century 
ago,  by  Mr.  Grierson,  of  Edinburgh.  The  master  of  the 
central  school  has,  in  addition,  the  interest  of  £50  be- 
queathed in  1807  by  Mrs.  Janet  Dobie,  and  of  £50  left 
in  1829  by  Robert  M'Kinnel,  Esq.,  of  Mc  Murdostan, 
who  also  at  the  same  time  left  £200  for  the  school  in 
the  lower  district.  Among  the  relics  of  antiquity  are 
those  on  Springfield  hill,  a  considerable  eminence,  where 
are  traces  of  a  military  station,  supposed  to  be  Roman, 
of  an  oblong  form,  and  covering  two  acres  of  ground. 
Burns,  the  poet,  resided  for  several  years  in  the  parish, 
at  the  farm  of  Elliesland. 

DUNSE,  a  market-town,  burgh  of  barony,  and  pa- 
rish, in  the  county  of  Berwick,  15  miles  (W.)  from 
Berwick,  and  42  (S.  E.)  from  Edinburgh;  containing, 
with  the  late  quoad  sacra  district  of  Boston,  3162  inha- 
bitants. This  place  derived  its  name  from  the  situation 
of  the  ancient  town  on  the  north-western  acclivity  of 
the  hill  on  the  south  side  of  which,  after  the  destruction 
of  the  old  town,  burnt  by  the  English,  the  present  was 
erected,  near  the  base  of  the  eminence,  towards  the  close 
of  the  sixteenth  century.  It  is  neatly  built ;  the  houses 
are  chiefly  modern,  and  of  good,  and  in  some  instances 
of  handsome,  appearance  ;  the  streets  are  spacious,  well 
paved,  and  lighted,  and  the  inhabitants  are  amply  sup- 
plied with  water  by  a  committee  of  the  feuars,  at 
the  expense  of  the  common  property  of  the  town. 
There  are  neither  any  manufactures,  nor  much  business 
carried  on  here,  except  such  handicraft  trades  as  are 
requisite  for  the  supply  of  the  inhabitants  and  the  im- 
mediate neighbourhood ;  but  the  town  is  thriving,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  county.  A  public 
library,  in  which  is  a  very  fair  collection,  is  maintained 
by  subscription  ;  and  there  are  also  a  reading-room 
furnished  with  newspapers  and  periodical  publications, 
and  two  circulating  libraries  that  are  liberally  supported. 
339 


The  post  has  a  good  delivery  :  the  market  is  on  Wed- 
nesday, and  fairs  are  held  in  June,  August,  and  Novem- 
ber, for  cattle  and  horses,  and  are  well  attended ;  there 
are  also  markets  in  March,  May,  July,  and  September, 
for  sheep,  of  which  a  great  number  are  sold.  Facility 
of  communication  with  the  county-town,  and  with  Edin- 
burgh and  other  places,  is  afforded  by  excellent  roads,  of 
which  the  turnpike-road  to  Edinburgh  passes  near 
Dunse. 

A  charter  was  granted  in  1489,  by  James  IV.,  con- 
stituting the  town  a  burgh  of  barony,  with  power  to 
choose  magistrates,  and  to  exercise  all  the  privileges 
usually  enjoyed  by  burghs  of  barony;  and  these  rights 
appear  to  have  been  in  force  for  nearly  two  cen- 
turies, during  which  the  bailies  and  burgesses  had  muni- 
cipal jurisdiction  within  the  limits  of  the  burgh.  In 
1670,  a  charter  was  granted  by  Charles  II.  to  Sir  James 
Cockburn,  who  had  purchased  the  lands  of  Dunse  from 
the  Homes,  of  Ayton,  confirming  all  the  previous  im- 
munities, which  were  afterwards  vested  in  the  family  of 
the  Hays,  of  Drummelzier,  whose  descendant,  William 
Hay,  Esq.,  of  Dunse  Castle,  is  the  present  superior  of 
the  barony.  Under  him  the  government  of  the  burgh 
is  administered  by  a  baron-bailie,  who  exercises  the 
ordinary  jurisdiction  in  cases  of  petty  offences  against 
the  peace,  and  in  pleas  of  debt  and  trespass  to  a  limited 
amount.  The  town-hall,  erected  in  1816,  at  an  expense 
of  £26S8,  of  which  £148S  were  raised  by  the  sale  of  the 
common  belonging  to  the  burgh,  and  the  remainder  by 
subscription,  is  a  handsome  edifice  in  the  ancient  style 
of  English  architecture,  containing  in  the  upper  part  a 
spacious  hall  or  court-room  for  the  transaction  of  busi- 
ness relating  to  the  burgh,  and  for  the  holding  of  public 
meetings,  under  which  are  some  shops.  The  police  is 
under  the  direction  of  certain  commissioners,  who  re- 
present the  ancient  burgesses,  and  unite  with  the  baron- 
bailie  in  the  general  management  of  the  town.  There  are 
within  the  burgh  14S  houses  of  the  annual  value  of  £10 
and  upwards,  and  S4  of  more  than  £5  and  under  the 
sum  of  £10. 

The  parish  is  about  six  miles  in  length,  from  south- 
east to  north-west,  and  three  miles  and  a  half  in  aver- 
age breadth,  and  of  very  irregular  form  ;  it  is  bounded 
on  the  north  and  east  for  a  considerable  space  by  the 
river  Whiteadder,  and  comprises  12,000  acres,  of  which 
nearly  6000  are  arable,  1000  woods  and  plantations, 
and  the  remainder  hill-pasture.  The  surface  is  exceed- 
ingly diversified  :  in  the  north  it  forms  part  of  the 
Lammermoor  range  of  hills,  including  Cockburn  Law, 
which  is  about  900  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
a  conspicuous  landmark  for  vessels  navigating  the  coast; 
and  in  the  eastern  and  southern  portions,  it  rises  in 
gentle  undulations  to  a  considerable  height,  attaining 
at  Dunse  Law  an  elevation  of  630  feet  above  the  sea. 
Besides  the  Whiteadder,  there  is  a  small  rivulet  called 
Langton  burn,  which  has  its  source  in  the  parish  of 
that  name,  and  after  forming  a  part  of  its  southern 
boundary,  falls  into  the  Blackadder  near  Wedderburn. 
There  are  few  springs  of  water  fit  for  domestic  use  in 
the  town,  and  the  chief  supply  was  formerly  obtained 
from  a  spring  on  Dunse  Law  ;  but,  by  the  appropriation 
to  that  purpose  of  a  considerable  sum  of  money  be- 
queathed by  Alexander  Christie,  Esq.,  of  Grueldykes,  an 
abundant  supply  of  excellent  soft  water  has,  with  the 
permission  of  Mr.  Hay,  been  conveyed  in  pipes  from  a 

2X2 


DUNS 


DUNS 


spring  near  the  site  of  the  old  town.  There  is  a  lake 
of  artificial  construction,  formed  in  the  grounds  of  Dunse 
Castle  for  the  embellishment  of  the  demesne.  Salmon 
and  grilse  are  found  in  abundance  in  the  Whiteadder, 
during  the  months  of  September  and  October ;  and  in 
May,  trout  of  a  delicate  flavour  are  plentiful  in  the 
Langton  burn.  The  scenery  is  richly  diversified,  dis- 
playing in  some  parts  a  considerable  boldness  of  feature, 
and  in  others  much  picturesque  beauty  ;  and  from  the 
higher  grounds  are  extensive  and  finely-varied  pros- 
pects. 

The  soil  in  the  northern  district  of  the  parish  is 
of  a  dry  gravelly  quality,  in  the  south  a  rich  deep  loam, 
and  in  those  parts  in  the  more  immediate  vicinity  of 
the  town  a  dark  sandy  loam.  The  crops  are,  grain  of 
all  kinds,  potatoes,  and  turnips ;  the  system  of  agricul- 
ture is  in  a  very  advanced  state,  and  the  five-shift  course 
generally  practised ;  the  lands  are  well  drained  and 
inclosed,  and  all  the  improvements  in  husbandry  and  in 
agricultural  implements  have  been  adopted.  A  due 
degree  of  attention  is  paid  to  live  stock  ;  the  sheep  are 
of  the  Leicester  and  Cheviot  breeds,  and  the  cattle  of 
the  short-horned  or  Teeswater,  with  the  exception  of 
some  Kyloes  or  Highland  oxen  fattened  for  home  con- 
sumption, the  others  being  chiefly  reared  for  the  English 
markets.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£15,922.  The  woods  and  plantations  are  under  good 
management,  and  in  a  very  thriving  condition.  The 
chief  substrata  are  greywacke  and  greywacke-slate,  with 
alternations  of  greenstone  and  red  sandstone  both  of 
the  old  and  new  formation ;  granite  and  porphyry  are 
found  in  some  of  the  hills.  The  sandstone  is  quarried 
in  the  southern  part  of  the  parish,  and  abounds  with 
vegetable  impressions.  Dunse  Castle  is  an  elegant  and 
spacious  mansion  in  the  ancient  English  style,  mostly 
of  modern  erection,  and  including  the  old  tower  built 
by  Randolph,  Earl  of  Moray,  and  incorporated  with  the 
present  structure  ;  it  is  beautifully  situated  in  a  demesne 
tastefully  laid  out  and  embellished  with  the  lake  already 
referred  to,  abounding  with  tench  and  perch.  Wedder- 
burn  Castle  is  a  stately  mansion  in  the  Grecian  style, 
finely  seated  in  richly-planted  grounds  ;  and  Manderston 
is  also  a  handsome  house,  the  grounds  of  which  are 
embellished  with  a  sheet  of  water  and  flourishing 
plantations. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dunse  and  synod 
of  Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and  patronage  of  William  Hay, 
Esq. ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £291.  13.,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £25  per  annum.  The  church, 
erected  in  1790  to  replace  the  ancient  building,  of 
Norman  character,  which  had  fallen  into  decay,  is  a 
plain  neat  edifice  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  S37 
persons.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church,  members  of  the  United  Associate 
Synod,  and  those  of  the  Relief  Synod.  The  parochial 
school  affords  education  to  about  120  children ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £70  fees,  and  a  house 
and  garden.  The  poor  have  the  proceeds  of  a  legacy  of 
£100  by  General  Dickson,  and  of  one  of  £1000  by  Mr. 
Christie;  and  an  annuity  of  £10  is  paid  to  five  poor 
females,  cousins  of  the  late  Dr.  Abraham  Robertson, 
Savilian  professor  of  astronomy  in  the  university  of 
Oxford.  There  are  also  two  friendly  societies  and  a 
savings'  bank,  which  have  both  contributed  to  diminish 
the  number  of  applications  for  parochial  relief.  The 
340 


foundations  are  still  remaining  of  Edinshall  Castle, 
situated  on  the  slope  of  Cockburn  Law,  and  one  of  the 
earliest  of  the  fortresses  erected  here  by  the  Saxons  on 
their  invasion  of  Britain.  It  was  of  circular  form,  about 
eighty-six  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  walls  were  nearly 
sixteen  feet  in  thickness,  and  perforated  in  the  interior 
with  numerous  cells,  extending  round  the  whole,  and 
apparently  vaulted  ;  but  the  materials  have  been  almost 
entirely  removed  for  various  purposes,  and  little  more 
than  the  foundations  are  remaining.  On  the  east  and 
south  of  the  circular  tower,  are  the  foundations  of 
several  quadrangular  buildings ;  and  the  whole  was 
defended  by  ramparts  of  stone  and  earth,  between  which 
were  trenches  of  considerable  depth.  From  the  situa- 
tion of  the  building  it  appears  to  have  been  rather 
intended  for  a  residence  than  a  military  post.  On  the 
summit  of  Dunse  Law  are  vestiges  of  the  intrenched 
camp  occupied  by  General  Leslie  and  20,000  of  the 
Covenanters  in  the  year  1639.  Abraham  Robertson, 
LL.D.,  was  born  here  in  1751;  and  Boston,  author  of 
the  Fourfold  State,  a  well-known  religious  work,  the 
Rev.  Thomas  Mc  Crie,  D.D.,  author  of  the  Life  of  John 
Knox  and  other  works,  and  the  Rev.  James  Gray,  who, 
officiating  in  his  ministerial  capacity  at  Cutch,  in  the 
East  Indies,  and  superintending  the  education  of  the 
prince  of  that  country,  died  there  in  1S30,  were  also 
natives  of  the  place.  It  is  said  that  the  celebrated  John 
Duns  Scotus  was  likewise  born  at  Dunse. 

DUNSHELT,  or  Daneshalt,  a  village,  in  the  parish 
of  Atjchtermuchtv,  district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife, 
1  mile  (S.  E.)  of  Auchtermuchty  ;  containing  ^646  inha- 
bitants. This  place  takes  its  name  from  its  having 
been  the  retreat  of  the  Danes,  who,  in  one  of  their 
invasions,  being  defeated  in  the  battle  of  Falkland  Muir, 
retired  from  the  field,  and  took  refuge  from  the  pur- 
suit of  the  conquerors  in  the  lower  part  of  the  parish. 
The  village  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  river  Eden,  and 
on  the  road  to  Falkland,  and  is  chiefly  inhabited  by 
persons  employed  in  the  weaving  of  linen  and  cotton 
goods  for  the  manufactures  of  Glasgow,  Aberdeen,  and 
Dundee.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  Seceders,  and 
also  a  school  in  the  village. 

DUNSYRE,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark,  1§  mile  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Roberton, 
and  5  miles  (S.  W.)  from  Linton ;  containing  28S  inha- 
bitants, of  whom  68  are  in  the  village.  This  place,  of 
which  the  name,  of  Celtic  origin,  is  supposed  to  signify 
the  "  hill  of  the  seer,"  appears  to  have  formed  part  of 
the  possessions  of  various  families  of  distinction  in  the 
earlier  periods  of  Scottish  history,  and  is  now,  with 
the  exception  of  a  small  portion,  the  property  of  Sir 
Norman  Macdonald  Lockhart,  Bart.  The  parish  is 
more  than  four  miles  in  length  from  north  to  south, 
and  from  three  to  four  miles  in  breadth,  and  is  bounded 
on  the  east  and  south  by  the  South  Medwin,  and  on 
the  north  by  the  North  Medwin  and  Dryburn  ;  it 
comprises  8779  Scottish  acres,  of  which  about  one- 
eighth  are  arable,  and  the  remainder  pasture  and  waste, 
with  thirty  acres  of  woodland  and  plantations.  The 
surface  is  generally  elevated,  and  rises  into  hills  of  con- 
siderable height,  of  which  that  of  Dunsyre  forms  in 
this  parish  the  termination  of  the  Pentland  hills,  a  range 
extending  for  nearly  twenty  miles  from  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  Edinburgh.  This  hill  has  an  elevation  of 
500  feet  above  the  general  surface  of  the  lands,  and  of 


DUNS 


D  U  R  I 


1230  above  the  sea ;  and  a  small  range  of  gradually 
diminishing  hills  branches  off  towards  the  west  from  it, 
stretching  to  the  parish  of  Carnwath.  Between  the 
Dunsyre  and  Walston  ranges  is  the  level  valley  of  the 
South  Medwin,  about  three  miles  in  length  and  a  mile 
broad.  The  scenery  of  the  parish  is  enlivened  with 
plantations  and  with  numerous  streams,  of  which  the 
only  one  that  may  be  called  a  river  is  the  South  Med- 
wiu,  having  its  source  in  the  north-eastern  extremity 
of  the  parish,  near  the  base  of  Craigingar,  and  which, 
flowing  through  the  valley,  is,  after  a  course  of  two  or 
three  miles  further,  diverted  towards  the  west,  where  it 
receives  a  stream  called  the  West  water,  issuing  from 
the  hills  to  the  north.  Craneloch,  situated  in  the 
moorland,  is  about  a  mile  in  circumference,  but  the 
scenery  is  destitute  of  beauty,  presenting  nothing  but 
marshy  lands  skirted  with  heath ;  it  abounds  with  pike 
and  perch,  and  trout  is  also  found  in  both  the  Medwins. 
The  lands  abound  with  springs  of  excellent  water,  and 
there  are  some  which  have  a  petrifying  quality,  and 
others  strongly  impregnated  with  iron. 

The  soil  is  generally  light  and  sandy,  in  some  parts 
intermixed  with  clay,  and  in  others  almost  a  barren 
heath  ;  the  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips. 
The  system  of  agriculture  is  advanced,  and  the  rotation 
plan  of  husbandry  universally  adopted  ;  the  lands  have 
been  drained  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  the  channel 
of  the  South  Medwin  straightened  to  afford  greater 
facilities  for  draining  the  marshy  grounds  in  its  vicinity. 
Attention  is  paid  to  the  management  of  the  dairy,  and 
to  the  improvement  of  stock  ;  the  milch-cows  on  the 
dairy-farms  are  all  of  the  Ayrshire  breed,  and  the  cattle 
mostly  with  a  cross  of  a  heavier  kind  for  agricultural 
purposes  and  for  the  market.  About  3000  sheep, 
chiefly  of  the  black-faced  breed,  are  annually  pastured. 
Considerable  quantities  of  skim-milk  and  Dunlop  cheese, 
and  of  butter,  are  sent  to  the  neighbouring  markets  ; 
and  the  dairy  produce  generally  is  esteemed  equal  in 
quality  to  that  of  any  part  of  the  county  of  Ayr.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2624.  The  sub- 
strata are  mainly  whinstone  of  a  blueish  colour,  free- 
stone, and  an  indifferent  kind  of  limestone,  with  partial 
seams  of  a  much  purer  kind  resembling  grey  marble, 
and  varying  from  eight  to  sixteen  feet  in  depth  ;  traces 
of  iron-ore  are  found  in  several  places,  and  copper-ore 
is  supposed  to  exist.  Coal  is  also  thought  to  prevail 
in  some  parts,  but  no  efficient  attempt  to  procure  it 
has  yet  been  made.  The  woods  and  plantations  are 
chiefly  Scotch  fir  and  larch,  but  they  are  rather  di- 
minishing than  increasing  in  extent.  The  village  is 
pleasantly  situated  in  the  vale  of  the  North  Medwin  : 
at  Medwin  Bank  are  a  carding-mill  and  a  dyeing  esta- 
blishment. The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Biggar 
and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale,  and  patronage  of 
the  Crown  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £156.  15.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £28  per  annum.  The 
church,  situated  on  an  eminence  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  Medwin,  is  an  ancient  edifice,  with  a  tower  in  the 
later  English  style,  which  was  added  to  it  in  1820,  when 
it  underwent  a  complete  repair ;  it  is  adapted  for  a 
congregation  of  about  250  persons.  The  parochial 
school  is  well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £25, 
with  £5  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  There  were 
formerly  numerous  castles  in  the  vale  of  Dunsyre,  in 
one  of  which  the  baron-bailie  held  his  courts  ;  several 
341 


relics  of  Roman  antiquity  still  remain,  and  the  ancient 
Roman  road  through  the  lands  to  the  camp  at  Cleghorn 
may  be  traced.  The  entrance  to  the  glen  in  which  the 
hill  of  Dunsyre  is  situated,  and  which  is  called  the 
Garvald,  forms  a  communication  between  the  east  and 
west  portions  of  the  parish  ;  the  route  of  the  army  of 
Agricola  through  this  rugged  defile  is  pointed  out  by  a 
dyke  of  earth,  and  some  cairns  are  yet  remaining,  in 
which  sepulchral  urns  of  burnt  clay,  rudely  carved,  have 
been  discovered. 

DUNTOCHER,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Old  Kilpatkick,  county  of  Dumbarton  ;  con- 
taining 3S09  inhabitants,  of  whom  2749  are  in  the  vil- 
lage, 8  miles  (N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Glasgow.  This  very 
thriving  place,  which,  less  than  forty  years  since,  was 
a  mere  hamlet,  owes  its  prosperity  to  the  enterprising 
spirit  of  a  resident,  Mr.  William  Dunn,  who  about  that 
period  purchased  the  Duntocher  mill,  and  extended  the 
works  then  employed  for  spinning  cotton-yarn.  In 
the  neighbourhood  are  now  several  vast  establishments 
for  this  branch  of  manufacture,  and  for  weaving, 
all  of  them  aided  by  powerful  steam  machinery. 
Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  also  employed  in  coal,  lime, 
and  iron  works,  in  brick-making,  and  various  other 
pursuits,  chiefly  on  the  property  of  Mr.  Dunn  here; 
and  all  around  presents  a  scene  of  remarkable  and  suc- 
cessful industry.  The  village  is  situated  about  two  miles 
distant,  northward,  from  the  river  Clyde,  and  on  the 
road  from  Kirkintilloch  to  Dumbarton ;  and  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  are  the  villages  of  Faifley  and  Hard- 
gate.  A  sub  post-office  has  been  established  under 
Glasgow.  At  Duntocher  is  a  bridge,  supposed  by  some 
to  be  a  Roman  structure,  and  near  it  is  an  engraved 
stone,  stating  that  it  was  erected  in  the  reign  of  Adrian  ; 
but  it  is  probable  that  the  materials  whereof  it  is 
built  were  obtained  at  a  more  recent  date  from  a  con- 
tiguous Roman  fort,  of  which  the  lines  can  with  diffi- 
culty be  traced  :  the  bridge  was  repaired  by  the  late 
Lord  Blantyre  in  1772.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
under  the  controul  of  the  presbytery  of  Dumbarton  and 
synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  the  stipend  of  the  minister 
is  £114,  produced  by  seat-rents  and  collections,  and 
the  patronage  is  vested  in  the  male  communicants.  The 
church  was  erected  in  1836,  at  the  cost  of  about  £1660, 
contributed  by  the  General  Assembly  and  by  opulent 
individuals,  and  is  a  very  chaste  and  handsome  edifice, 
containing  accommodation  for  876  persons.  The  mem- 
bers of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship  ;  and 
there  are  two  Secession  meeting-houses  and  a  Roman 
Catholic  chapel,  besides  two  or  three  schools.  A  sepul- 
chral stone  of  Roman  origin,  and  of  elegant  design  and 
workmanship,  was  discovered  some  time  since. 

DUPPLIN,  county  of  Perth. — See  Aberdalgie. 

DURINISH,  Isle  of  Skye.— See  Duirinish. 

DURISDEER,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dum- 
fries ;  containing,  with  part  of  the  village  of  Carron- 
bridge,  1445  inhabitants,  of  whom  107  are  in  the  vil- 
lage of  Durisdeer,  6  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Thornhill. 
This  district,  which  in  ancient  times  was  covered  with 
wood,  is  supposed  to  derive  its  name  from  duris,  sig- 
nifying a  door,  and  deer,  a  forest.  Several  great  fami- 
lies have  been  connected  with  it,  of  which  the  chief  are 
those  of  Douglas,  Stuart,  the  Menzies  of  Enock,  and 
the  Hunters  of  Balagan  ;  and  the  place  was  formerly 
celebrated  for  its  castle,  which,  with   the  fortresses  of 


D  URN 


D  U  R  N 


Dumfries,  Dalswinton,  and  Morton,  was,  by  an  agree- 
ment between  the  English  and  Scots,  demolished,  as 
being  troublesome  to  the  former,  at  the  restoration  of 
King  David  Bruce,  who,  after  being  captured  at  the 
battle  of  Durham,  had  been  kept  eleven  years  prisoner 
in  England.  The  parish  is  eight  miles  long  and  six 
broad,  and  contains  nearly  20,000  acres ;  it  is  almost 
surrounded  by  hills,  covered  with  grass,  heath,  or  bent, 
and  the  highest  of  which  are  the  Lowthers,  on  its  north- 
eastern side,  which  rise  3130  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  :  the  climate  is  bleak,  but  dry  and  healthy.  The 
river  Nith  runs  through  the  lands,  in  a  direction  from 
north-west  to  south-east,  and  besides  this  important 
stream,  there  are  five  considerable  burns,  viz.,  the 
Enterkin,  the  Carron,  the  Hapland,  the  Maarburn,  and 
the  burn  at  Crarie-Knoll. 

The  soil  in  general  is  loamy,  deep,  and  fertile,  in 
many  places  inclining  to  a  reddish  colour  ;  in  some 
parts  it  is  gravelly  and  sandy,  and  occasionally  wet  and 
heavy.  About  7896  acres  are  cultivated  ;  9554  are  hill- 
pasture,  and  2000  are  wood,  including  500  acres  that 
are  of  natural  growth  :  the  plantations  chiefly  consist 
of  hard-woods,  in  the  thinning  of  which  every  tree  is  in 
course  of  time  removed  except  the  oak.  The  usual  kinds 
of  grain  and  various  green  crops  are  raised  of  good 
quality ;  the  cattle  are  of  the  Galloway  breed,  and  the 
sheep  the  black-faced  ;  the  improved  system  of  husban- 
dry is  followed,  and  considerable  advances  have  been 
made  in  fencing,  the  construction  of  farm-buildings, 
and  the  formation  of  roads.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £"901.  The  rocks  in  the  hills  are 
whinstone  or  greywacke,  and  on  the  low  grounds  they 
are  chiefly  sandstone  of  a  red  colour,  and  very  soft, 
though  in  some  places  white,  and  of  a  much  firmer 
texture  :  quarries  have  been  opened  for  stones  adapted 
for  farm-buildings  and  dykes.  Drumlanrig  Castle,  in 
the  parish,  a  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  and  Queens- 
berry,  whose  property  extends  over  a  very  large  district 
in  this  part  of  the  country,  is  described  under  its  own 
head.  The  village  is  situated  near  the  eastern  boundary 
of  the  parish,  on  the  road  from  Dumfries  to  Edinburgh. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of 
Penpont  andsynod  ofDumfries;  patron, the  Duke  of  Buc- 
cleuch and  Queensberry.  There  is  a  manse,  with  a  glebe 
valued  at  £25  per  annum,  and  the  stipend  of  the  minis- 
ter is  £221.  The  church,  erected  in  1720,  contains  a 
handsome  marble  monument,  representing  James,  se- 
cond duke  of  Queensberry,  weeping  over  the  form  of 
his  deceased  duchess  :  a  vault  attached  to  the  church 
is  the  burial-place  of  the  family.  There  are  two  paro- 
chial schools,  in  which  the  classics,  with  the  usual 
branches  of  education,  are  taught ;  the  salaries  of  the 
masters  are  respectively  £30  and  £24,  with  about  £10 
fees  each,  and  the  accommodation  of  a  house.  A  third 
school  is  carried  on  in  the  parish,  situated  at  Enter- 
kinford,  and  the  master  receives  £10  per  annum 
from  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch.  About  a  mile  above 
the  church  are  the  vestiges  of  a  Roman  camp  which 
appears  to  have  been  a  summer  station  connected 
with  the  great  one  at  Tibbers,  to  guard  the  pass  from 
Lanarkshire. 

DURNESS,  a  parish,  in  the    county  of  Suther- 
land, 20  miles    (n.  W.  by  w.)    from  Tongue,   and  76 
(N.  W.)    from    Golspie,    containing    1109    inhabitants. 
This  parish,  of  which  the  name  is  of  doubtful  origin, 
342 


anciently  comprised  the  whole  of  the  lands  called  "  Lord 
Reay's  country,"  a  district  of  S00  square  miles  in  extent, 
from  which,  since  the  year  1724,  have  been  separated 
the  parishes  of  Tongue  on  the  east,  and  Eddrachillis  on 
the  south-west.  The  present  parish  of  Durness  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  North  Sea,  and  on  the 
west  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  is  about  twenty-five 
miles  in  length,  and  twelve  in  average  breadth,  com- 
prising, with  its  several  Friths,  an  area  of  300  square 
miles,  of  which  scarcely  one-hundredth  part  is  under  cul- 
tivation. The  surface,  which  is  boldly  diversified,  and 
abounds  with  magnificent  scenery,  is  naturally  divided 
into  three  mountainous  districts,  separated  from  each 
other  by  spacious  inlets  from  the  North  Sea.  Of  these, 
the  district  of  Parf,  extending  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean 
on  the  west  to  the  Kyle  of  Durness,  occupies  an  area  of 
more  than  seventy  square  miles  ;  the  district  of  Dur- 
ness, reaching  from  the  Kyle  to  the  western  shore  of 
Loch  Eriboll,  has  an  area  of  about  eighty  square  miles  ; 
and  the  district  of  Westmoin,  extending  from  the  east- 
ern shore  of  Loch  Eriboll  to  the  morass  east  of  Loch 
Hope,  contains  nearly  100  square  miles.  The  principal 
Mountains  are,  Scribhisbheinn,  Faisbheinn,  Fairemheall, 
Creigriabhach,  and  Bendearg,  all  in  the  Parf  district, 
varying  in  height  from  1500  to  2500  feet;  Ceannabinn, 
Meallmeadhonaeh,  Cranstackie,  and  Ben-Spionnadh  in 
the  Durness  district,  of  which  Ben-Spionnadh  has  an 
elevation  of  2566  feet;  and  Ben-Hope,  3150  feet  in 
height,  in  the  district  of  Westmoin,  which  contains  also 
several  ranges  of  lofty  and  precipitous  hills.  The  val- 
leys are,  Strath-Dinard,  extending  from  the  Kyle  of 
Durness  along  the  river  Grudy  for  about  fourteen  miles ; 
Strath-Beg,  a  narrow  fertile  vale  about  two  miles  in 
length ;  and  Strathmore,  extending  from  the  north  base 
of  Ben-Hope,  for  about  six  miles,  along  the  banks  of 
the  river  to  which  it  gives  name.  The  rivers  of  import- 
ance are,  the  Hope,  a  continuation  of  the  Strathmore 
water,  which  latter  has  its  source  in  Glen-gollie,  and, 
having  run  for  ten  miles,  flows  into  Loch  Hope ;  and 
the  Dinard,  which  rises  in  Loch  Dinard,  and,  after  a 
course  of  ten  miles,  falls  into  the  Kyle  of  Durness. 
Both  these  rivers,  especially  when  swollen  after  heavy 
rains,  are  impetuous,  and  afford  good  fishing  for  trout, 
and  occasionally  for  salmon.  There  are  numerous 
inland  lakes,  of  which  the  most  extensive  is  Loch  Hope, 
six  miles  in  length,  and  about  half  a  mile  broad.  Loch 
Borley  is  one  mile  in  length,  abounding  with  char,  and 
in  its  centre  is  a  beautiful  green  island;  Loch  Crospul  is 
about  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  has  abundance  of 
trout ;  Loch  Dinard  and  various  others  are  of  still  less 
extent. 

The  coast  is  generally  bold  and  elevated,  and  in  most 
parts  defended  by  a  chain  of  rocks,  rising  precipitously 
from  the  sea,  to  heights  varying  from  200  to  700  feet,  in 
some  places  the  shore  is  low  and  sandy,  and  at  the  bay 
of  Baluakiel  are  hills  of  shifting  sand.  The  headlands 
are,  Cape  Wrath,  Farout  Head,  and  Whiten  Head.  A 
lighthouse  has  been  erected  on  the  first-named,  at  an 
elevation  of  350  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  :  the  build- 
ing, which  is  of  granite  found  near  the  spot,  was  com- 
menced under  the  direction  of  the  lords  commissioners 
in  1827,  and  is  about  fifty  feet  in  height,  displaying  a 
revolving  light  alternately  red  and  white,  and  visible  at 
a  distance  of  twelve  nautical  miles.  Since  its  completion, 
wrecks,    which  were  previously  frequent,  have   seldom 


D  U  R  N 


DURO 


occurred.  Of  the  friths  that  intersect  the  parish,  the 
principal  are,  the  Kyle  of  Durness,  about  six  miles  in 
length,  and  one  mile  in  average  breadth,  and,  to  the 
east  of  this,  Loch  Eriboll,  ten  miles  long,  and  varying 
from  one  mile  to  four  miles  in  breadth.  The  chief  bays 
are,  Durness,  between  the  district  of  Parf  and  the  long  pro- 
montory of  Farout  Head  ;  the  small  bay  of  Balnakiel,  to 
the  east ;  and  the  bay  of  Camisendun,  in  Loch  Eriboll,  af- 
fording excellent  anchorage,  and  resorted  to  by  vessels 
unable  to  double  Cape  Wrath  or  enter  the  Pentland  Frith. 
There  are  several  islands  off  the  coast,  of  which  Garvellan, 
to  the  east  of  the  Cape,  and  about  a  mile  from  the  shore, 
is  100  yards  long,  nearly  of  equal  breadth,  and  sixty 
feet  high,  and  is  frequented  by  various  species  of  sea- 
fowl.  Hoan,  near  the  entrance  of  Loch  Eriboll,  is  one 
mile  in  length,  and  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  covered  with 
verdure ;  and  Choaric,  within  the  loch,  is  of  equal  dimen- 
sions and  fertility  :  in  both  there  are  places  of  sepulture, 
said  to  have  been  originally  selected  for  security  from 
the  depredation  of  wolves  which  infested  the  parish. 
Numerous  caverns,  also,  have  been  formed  in  the  rocks 
along  the  coast  by  the  action  of  the  waves  ;  the  most  re- 
markable is  Smo,  two  miles  to  the  east  of  the  church,  hav- 
ing natural  arches  of  great  height,  in  some  parts  100  feet 
wide,  and  abounding  with  features  of  romantic  character. 
About  a  mile  from  the  eastern  part  of  the  coast,  towards 
the  north,  are  the  rocks  called  the  Stags,  of  which  the 
summits  only  are  above  water  ;  and  at  some  distance 
from  Cape  Wrath  are  others,  visible  only  at  neap  tides; 
all  of  which,  previously  to  the  erection  of  the  lighthouse, 
were  frequently  fatal  to  vessels  making  for  the  Cape. 

Of  the  small  portion  of  land  under  cultivation,  the 
soil  is  clay  or  moss,  resting  on  a  substratum  of  lime- 
stone and  clay,  and  the  crops  are,  grain  of  various  kinds, 
and  potatoes ;  but  the  parish  is  principally  pastoral, 
and  dependent  on  its  fisheries.  The  cattle  are  of  the 
Highland  breed,  and  the  sheep,  with  the  exception  of  a 
few  of  the  black-faced,  chiefly  of  the  Cheviot  breed. 
Several  tracts  of  waste  have  been  reclaimed  and  laid 
down  in  pasture,  and  comfortable  cottages  have  been 
built  on  most  of  the  small  holdings.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £1/45.  The  herring-fishery 
commences  in  June,  and  continues  till  September ;  a 
small  kind  of  herring  of  superior  flavour  is  found  in 
Loch  Eriboll,  but  is  used  only  for  home  consumption.  In 
this  fishery  are  engaged  ten  boats,  manned  with  four 
men  and  a  boy  each,  for  which  the  harbour  of  Rispond 
affords  good  accommodation.  The  lobster-fishery  com- 
mences in  May,  and  continues  till  August,  and  employs 
six  boats,  with  two  men  each  :  when  taken  the  lobsters 
are  kept  in  a  perforated  floating- chest,  whence  they  are 
forwarded  weekly  in  smacks  to  the  London  market. 
Cod  and  ling  are  abundant  off  the  coast,  but  are  taken 
only  for  domestic  use ;  salmon  are  found  in  the  river 
Dinard  and  in  Loch  Hope,  and  the  number  caught  annu- 
ally, including  grilse,  averages  about  11,000.  The  cattle 
and  sheep  of  the  parish  are  sent  to  Falkirk,  and  the  wool 
to  Liverpool  and  Hull.  The  harbours  are,  Loch  Eriboll, 
affording  safe  anchorage  and  ample  shelter  for  vessels  of 
any  burthen  ;  Rispond,  where  a  substantial  pier  has  been 
constructed ;  and  Port  Our,  near  Balnakiel,  which  is 
adapted  only  for  boats.  A  boat-slip,  also,  has  been 
constructed  at  Clashcarnach,  to  the  east  of  the  Cape. 
There  are  considerable  remains  of  ancient  wood,  consist- 
ing principally  of  birch,  growing  in  sheltered  situations  ; 
343 


but  no  plantations  have  been  formed.  At  Balnakiel  is 
an  ancient  mansion-house,  formerly  the  residence  of 
Lord  Reay,  but  now  occupied  by  a  sheep  farmer :  there 
is  no  village  properly  so  called,  but  in  various  parts  are 
clusters  of  small  houses  containing  from  ten  to  thirty 
each.  Facility  of  intercourse  has  been  greatly  extended 
by  the  Duke  of  Sutherland,  proprietor  of  the  parish  ;  and 
good  roads  have  been  constructed,  among  which  are  those 
from  the  Kyle  of  Durness  to  Cape  Wrath,  from  Loch 
Eriboll  to  Tongue,  and  a  line  from  the  west  to  the 
east  of  the  parish,  thirty -four  miles  in  length  round  the 
loch,  or  crossingthe  ferry  twenty-four  miles.  A  post-office 
has  been  established,  which  has  communication  with 
Tongue  twice  every  week.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Tongue 
and  synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caithness.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  £158.  6.  8.,  of  which  more  than  two-thirds  are 
paid  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £20  per  annum :  the  patronage  is  in  the 
Crown.  The  church,  situated  within  a  few  yards  of  the 
sea-shore,  is  a  plain  structure  erected  in  1619,  and  con- 
taining 300  sittings.  In  the  Eriboll  district,  about  ten 
miles  from  the  parish  church,  is  a  small  church  in  con- 
nexion with  the  Establishment,  built  in  1S04,  and  con- 
taining 100  sittings;  divine  service  is  occasionally  per- 
formed by  a  missionary  supported  by  the  Society  for 
Propagating  Christian  Knowledge.  There  is  a  place  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  The  parochial 
school  is  not  well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £30,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average 
£11.  A  school,  also,  is  maintained  in  connexion  with 
the  Free  Church.  There  are  remains  of  several  Picts' 
houses,  of  which  the  most  entire  is  Dornadilla's  Tower, 
at  Strathmore,  consisting  of  circular  concentric  walls, 
150  feet  in  circumference,  and  nearly  twenty  feet  in 
height.  Robert  Donn,  the  "  Burns"  of  the  Highlands, 
and  author  of  some  Gaelic  poems,  lies  interred  in  the 
churchyard ;  and  a  substantial  monument  of  granite 
has  been  erected  to  his  memory. 

DUROR,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  district,  in  the  parish 
of  Lismore  and  Appin,  district  of  Lorn,  county  of 
Argyll,  6  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Appin ;  containing 
1692  inhabitants.  Duror  is  situated  on  an  arm  of  the 
sea,  called  the  Linnhe  loch,  into  which  a  portion  of  the 
land  projects  in  a  kind  of  promontory  ;  on  the  north  is 
Loch  Leven,  [and  on  the  south  stretches  Loch  Creran. 
It  includes  the  district  of  Glencoe,  is  about  twenty- 
eight  miles  in  length,  and  averages  about  seven  in 
breadth  ;  but  of  this  extensive  area  scarcely  a  twentieth 
part  is  under  cultivation,  the  rest  being  chiefly  pasturage 
for  sheep  and  black-cattle,  and  very  thinly  inhabited  by 
shepherds.  The  greater  number  of  the  population  are  at 
Glencoe,  where,  and  near  the  village,  are  considerable 
slate  works  and  quarries,  of  which  the  material,  of  a 
blue  colour,  and  much  esteemed,  is  exported  in  large 
quantities  to  Leith,  England,  and  even  America.  The 
surface  around  Glencoe  is  in  many  places  wild,  moun- 
tainous, and  romantic,  and  the  vale  is  celebrated  as  the 
birthplace  of  Ossian,  and  for  the  cruel  massacre  of  its 
unsuspecting  inhabitants  in  1691.  At  Ballichulish  and 
Ardsheal  are  good  mansions,  the  former  rather  modern, 
r.nd  the  latter  somewhat  ancient.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  under  the  controul  of  the  presbytery  of  Lorn 
and  synod  of  Argyll ;  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £120, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  the  annual  value  of  £1.  15. : 


D  U  R  R 


DUTH 


patron,  the  Crown.  The  church,  built  about  1S26,  by 
the  parliamentary  commissioners,  is  a  plain  edifice  con- 
taining accommodation  for  323  persons,  and  was  re- 
paired in  1S34.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have 
a  place  of  worship ;  and  there  is  a  Roman  Catholic 
chapel,  with  an  episcopal  chapel  and  a  mission  church. 
Two  parochial  schools  are  supported,  in  both  of  which 
English  and  Gaelic,  and  the  first  elements  of  education, 
are  taught ;  the  salaries  of  the  masters  respectively  are 
£18  and  £8,  with  about  £22  and  £10  in  fees.  A 
mineral  spring  here  was  used  for  medicinal  purposes  for 
some  time,  but  it  lately  fell  into  disrepute,  and  is  now 
quite  neglected. 

DURRIS,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Kincardine, 
5  miles  (E.)  from  Banehory-Ternan,  and  13  (W.  S.  W.) 
from  Aberdeen;  containing  1109  inhabitants.  This 
place  is  supposed  to  derive  its  name,  often  pronounced 
Dores,  from  a  Gaelic  word  signifying  a  mouth  or  en- 
trance, which  is  descriptive  of  this  part  as  affording  a 
principal  entrance  into  the  Highlands.  The  parish  was 
once  a  chapelry  belonging,  as  is  generally  thought,  to 
the  ancient  order  of  Knights  Templars ;  but  its  primi- 
tive history  is  involved  in  considerable  obscurity.  The 
estate  of  Durris,  which  extends  into  the  neighbouring 
parish  of  Banehory-Ternan,  was  formerly  in  the  pos- 
session of  Lord  Peterborough,  who  let  it  upon  lease  to 
the  late  John  Innes,  Esq.,  of  Leuchars,  near  Elgin.  On 
the  reduction  of  this  lease  by  the  supreme  court,  the 
property  came  into  the  hands  of  the  fourth  Duke  of  Gor- 
don, in  1S24,  as  next  heir  of  entail ;  and  by  authority 
of  an  act  of  parliament  transferring  the  entail  to  other 
lands,  the  estate  was  purchased  from  the  last  duke 
by  Anthony  Mactier,  Esq.,  late  of  Calcutta,  by  whom 
it  is  at  present  held.  The  parish  is  five  and  a  half 
miles  long,  about  three  and  three-quarters  broad,  and 
contains  about  17,000  acres  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  the  river  Dee,  which  separates  it  from  the  parish  of 
Banehory-Ternan,  and  from  Drumoak,  in  Aberdeen- 
shire ;  and  in  the  south  by  the  Grampian  mountains. 
The  surface  is  marked  by  great  irregularities,  consisting 
of  considerable  tracts  of  flat  ground,  alternated  with 
abrupt  acclivities  and  the  lofty  hills  of  Mindernal, 
Mountgower,  Craigberg,  and  Cairnmonearn,  the  last  of 
which  rises  about  1200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
There  are  several  small  rivulets,  but  the  only  one  worth 
notice  is  the  Shiach  burn,  which,  after  a  rapid  course 
of  twelve  miles,  falls  into  the  Dee  at  the  Church. 

The  soil  on  the  haugh  lands  by  the  river  side  is  in 
some  parts  a  rich  and  fertile  loam,  and  in  others  light 
and  sandy ;  in  a  few  places  the  soil  has  a  mixture  of 
clay  and  gravel  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  rests  upon 
a  stiff  tenacious  subsoil :  in  almost  every  direction,  and 
even  in  the  cultivated  fields,  occur  enormous  masses  of 
stone,  generally  gneiss.  The  hills  are  usually  covered 
with  two  or  three  feet  of  moss  and  heath,  but  the 
naked  rocks  often  protrude ;  in  the  hollows  at  the  base 
is  a  greater  depth  of  moss,  supplying  peat  in  large 
quantities,  and  of  the  best  description.  Upwards  of 
4000  acres  are  under  tillage,  about  1500  in  plantations, 
and  the  rest  in  pasture,  moss,  and  moor,  1000  acres 
of  which  are  capable  of  improvement  at  a  moderate 
expense;  oats  and  barley  are  the  grain  raised,  and  of 
the  green  crops  turnips  and  potatoes  are  the  chief.  The 
sheep  are  the  black-faced,  and  the  cattle  the  black- 
dodded  kind,  to  which  the  Ayrshire  breed  has  lately 
344 


been  added.  The  five  and  six  years'  rotations  of 
crops  are  generally  followed  ;  the  farm-buildings  are 
in  good  repair,  and  drainage  and  manuring  with  lime 
are  carefully  attended  to.  The  rocks  consist  prin- 
cipally of  granite,  whinstone,  and  gneiss,  the  last  of 
which  is  most  abundant,  and  appears  to  be  inexhausti- 
ble ;  there  is  limestone  in  several  places,  but  it  has 
never  been  quarried,  and  its  precise  quality  is  not 
exactly  known.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £3778. 

The  chief  seat  is  the  house  of  Durris,  recently  built, 
and  connected  with  a  more  ancient  mansion  by  an  ex- 
tensive colonnade ;  both  have  lately  been  subject  to 
considerable  additions  and  alterations.  There  is  no 
village  :  a  turnpike-road  runs  through  the  parish  for 
about  four  miles,  leading  from  Stonehaven  to  Banchory  ; 
a  new  road  from  Aberdeen  to  Banchory,  completed  in 
1840,  passes  through  from  east  to  west,  and  several 
cross  roads  are  well  adapted  to  local  convenience.  Fairs 
are  held  in  May,  June,  and  September,  for  the  sale  of 
cattle  and  sheep.  There  are  two  or  three  salmon- 
fisheries  in  the  river,  but  they  have  for  some  time  past 
been  decreasing,  and  are  now  in  a  very  low  condition. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  presby- 
tery and  synod  of  Aberdeen ;  patron,  Mr.  Mactier. 
There  is  a  manse,  with  a  glebe  of  15  acres,  valued  at  as 
many  pounds  per  annum,  and  the  stipend  of  the  minis- 
ter is  £158,  of  which  £81  are  received  from  the  ex- 
chequer. The  church,  a  very  plain  edifice,  was  built  in 
the  year  1822  by  the  late  proprietor,  and  accommodates 
550  persons  with  sittings,  all  free  :  part  of  the  old  church 
still  remains,  bearing  the  date  1537.  The  members  of 
the  Free  Church  have  no  place  of  worship.  There  is 
a  parochial  school,  at  which  Latin  is  taught,  with  the 
usual  branches  of  a  plain  education  ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £29,  with  £20  fees.  Another  school,  com- 
monly called  Hog's  Charity  School,  was  instituted  by 
Mr.  Hog,  a  native  of  the  parish,  who  left  £5  per  annum 
to  a  teacher,  who  was  required  to  educate  gratuitously 
ten  poor  children  recommended  by  the  Kirk  Session. 
The  master  has  also  a  small  plot  of  land,  given  by  the 
late  proprietor,  and  the  fees,  making  in  the  whole  a 
salary  of  about  £30  a  year  ;  and  the  same  branches  are 
taught  in  this  school  as  in  the  parochial,  Latin  ex- 
cepted. There  are  some  Druidical  remains,  and  tumuli, 
and  several  chalybeate  springs  in  the  parish  :  of  the 
last,  one,  called  Red-Beard's  Well,  from  a  robber  of 
that  name,  who  is  said  to  have  lived  in  a  neighbouring 
cave,  is  in  considerable  repute,  and  resembles,  in  many 
respects,  the  Harrogate  water. 

DUTHIL,  a  parish,  chiefly  in  the  county  of  Elgin, 
but  partly  in  that  of  Inverness,  2  miles  (N.  E.  by  E.) 
from  Carr-Bridge,  including  the  late  quoad  sacra  dis- 
trict of  Rothiemurchus,  and  containing  1769  inhabit- 
ants. This  place,  which  was  anciently  called  Gleann- 
chearnach,  or  "  the  heroes'  glen,"  derived  its  present  name 
from  the  Gaelic  word  Tuathil,  signifying  "north,"  on 
the  removal  of  its  church  from  a  spot  in  the  south,  called 
Deishal.  Rothiemurchus,  united  to  Duthil  in  1630,  was 
disjoined  in  1824,  and  formed  into  a  separate  eccle- 
siastical district,  which  is  described  under  its  own  head. 
Exclusively  of  this  portion,  which  is  in  Inverness-shire, 
the  parish  is  wholly  situated  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  county  of  Elgin,  on  the  north-eastern  bank  of  the 
Spey,  and  in  a  mountainous  and  thickly-wooded  tract, 


D  U  T  II 


D  Y  C  E 


in  ancient  times  an  almost  impenetrable  forest ;  it  was 
the  scene  of  many  deadly  feuds  between  rival  chieftains 
in  past  ages,  and  the  residence  of  the  powerful  Cumyns. 
This  family  possessed  the  principal  part  of  the  estates, 
and  for  many  generations  maintained  hostilities  with 
the  Grants  ;  but  the  enmity  between  the  clans  was 
ended  by  the  marriage  of  the  heiress  of  one  of  the 
Cumyns  to  Sir  John  Grant  of  Freuchy,  the  great  rival, 
thereby  fixing  the  property  in  the  family  of  Grant, 
with  whom  it  has  remained  to  the  present  time.  Du- 
thil  measures  in  length  about  sixteen  miles,  and  thir- 
teen in  breadth,  and  comprises  a  large  proportion  of 
uncultivated  ground,  and  of  natural  wood,  consisting 
chiefly  of  fir,  the  part  under  tillage  being  of  small 
extent. 

The  surface  presents  a  hilly,  bleak,  and  dreary  aspect, 
the  scenery  taking  its  principal  character  from  extensive 
moors  and  mountains,  the  latter  covered  with  hea- 
ther, and  the  whole  only  occasionally  interspersed  with 
patches  of  grass  or  corn  land.  A  lofty  range  traverses 
the  whole  northern  side,  and  terminates  in  the  Mona- 
dhlia,  an  imposing  chain  of  mountains  common  to  the 
districts  of  Badenoch,  Strathdearn,  and  Stratherrick  ; 
and  parallel  with  this,  but  not  of  equal  height,  a  ridge 
passes  along  the  southern  portion,  bleak  and  barren 
like  the  other.  These  two  ranges  skirt  the  interme- 
diate valley  of  the  Dulnan  stream,  which  takes  its  rise 
in  the  Badenoch  hills,  and,  flowing  through  the  vale 
from  west  to  east,  loses  itself  in  the  Spey  at  Be- 
lentomb  of  Inverallan,  and  which,  though  generally 
small,  overflows  its  banks  when  swollen  after  rain  or 
snow,  and  carries  desolation  among  the  neighbouring 
lands.  The  forest  of  Duthil  or  Dulnanside  was  destroyed 
by  fire  at  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  an  event 
which  was  the  occasion  of  the  final  extirpation  of  the 
wolves,  so  long  before  the  terror  of  the  neighbour- 
hood ;  but  there  is  still  a  large  forest  of  natural  Scotch 
fir  in  the  northern  district,  where  two  saw-mills,  of 
two  saws  each,  erected  for  the  cutting  the  timber 
felled  in  the  locality,  are  turned  by  the  waters  of  the 
Dulnan.  The  lochs  are  of  small  extent,  but  some  of 
them  contain  fine  trout,  especially  Loch  Bhruach,  situ- 
ated on  the  northern  hills  ;  in  others  are  pike ;  and 
salmon  and  trout  are  taken  in  the  rivers. 

The  soil  near  the  Dulnan  and  Spey  is  chiefly  alluvial, 
upon  a  deep  clayey  subsoil,  producing  in  favourable 
seasons  heavy  crops  of  oats  ;  and  some  of  the  higher 
grounds,  also,  where  the  soil  is  thin  and  gravelly,  and 
intermixed  with  stones,  yield  notwithstanding,  by  the 
recent  improvements  in  cultivation,  and  when  aided  by 
genial  seasons,  an  ample  return  in  oats,  bear,  barley, 
turnips,  and  potatoes.  The  system  of  husbandry  has 
been  greatly  improved  within  the  last  twenty  years, 
and  the  five-shift  course  is  usually  followed ;  much 
waste  ground  has  been  reclaimed,  and  the  former  huts 
of  the  farmers,  raised  with  turf,  have  been  succeeded 
by  well-built  stone  dwellings,  neatly  thatched  with 
straw.  Birch,  alder,  and  fir  thrive  well  in  this  part, 
and  the  first,  which  grows  naturally  to  a  considerable 
extent,  greatly  relieves  the  generally  uninteresting  sce- 
nery :  an  extensive  tract  of  barren  moor  was  planted  by 
the  late  Sir  James  Grant  along  the  northern  bank  of 
the  Spey,  upwards  of  fifty  years  since,  and  the  trees 
are  now  in  a  flourishing  condition.  The  rafeible  annual 
value  of  Duthil  is  £2674.  The  Highland  road  between 
Vol.  I.— 345 


Perth  and  Inverness  passes  through  the  parish ;  and 
from  the  hamlet  of  Carr-bridge,  where  a  post-office  was 
established  in  1S36,  a  road  branches  off  to  Grantown  : 
besides  the  bridge  at  the  hamlet,  there  is  one  at  Slug- 
gan,  built  shortly  after  the  year  1745,  on  the  line  of 
road  formed  under  the  direction  of  General  Wade,  but 
it  has  been  almost  impassable  since  the  flood  of  1S29. 
The  cattle  of  the  district  are  sold  at  neighbouring  mar- 
kets to  the  south  country  dealers  :  the  timber  cut  in  the 
forest  is  sent  mostly  to  Inverness.  The  parish  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Abernethy  and  synod  of  Moray,  and 
in  the  patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Seafield ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £200,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£5  per  annum.  The  church  is  a  commodious  edifice, 
built  in  1S26,  and  accommodating  between  S00  and  900 
persons  with  sittings,  all  free  :  a  handsome  mausoleum 
of  grey  granite  has  lately  been  erected  over  the  burial- 
ground  of  the  Grant  family.  The  parochial  school 
affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £25.  13.,  with  about  £12  or  £15  fees, 
and  £32  from  the  Dick  bequest :  there  is  also  a  school 
endowed  by  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian 
Knowledge,  and  another  is  supported  by  the  education 
scheme  of  the  General  Assembly. 

DYCE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  and  county  of  Aber- 
deen, 7  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Aberdeen  ;  containing 
472  inhabitants.  This  parish  was  in  remote  times  called 
the  chapelry  of  St.  Fergus,  to  whom  the  present  church 
is  dedicated ;  and  it  is  supposed  that,  with  several 
adjacent  parishes,  it  was  formerly  connected  with  the 
cathedral  of  Old  Machar.  It  is  in  extreme  length  about 
six  miles,  and  between  three  and  four  in  breadth,  and 
contains  4667  acres  ;  it  is  bounded  by  the  parish  of 
Fintray  on  the  north,  by  that  of  Newhills  on  the  south 
and  south-west,  by  Kiuellar  on  the  north-west,  and  by- 
New  and  Old  Machar  on  the  east.  The  surface,  which, 
is  not  marked  by  any  very  striking  peculiarities,  is  in 
general  tolerably  level,  with  the  exception  of  the  land  in 
the  north-west,  whence  the  broad  hill  of  Tyrebagger, 
commencing  a  declivity,  slopes  towards  the  south-east 
for  a  distance  of  about  three  miles,  and  then  loses  itself 
in  the  plain  below.  The  river  Don  runs  along  the  north- 
ern and  eastern  boundaries  of  the  parish,  and  after  a 
further  course  of  a  few  miles  in  a  south-eastern  direc- 
tion, falls,  two  miles  north  of  Aberdeen,  into  the  Ger- 
man Ocean  :  the  trout-fishing  during  the  months  of 
March  and  April  is  very  superior. 

The  finest  soil  lies  in  the  low  grounds  along  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  consists  of  alluvial  deposit,  pro- 
ducing rich  and  heavy  crops ;  the  soil  in  the  other  parts 
is  indifferent,  and  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  of  Tyre- 
bagger  poor  and  thin.  The  number  of  acres  under  cul- 
tivation is  2910,  under  wood  1176,  and  in  waste  581, 
out  of  which  237  are  considered  capable  of  profitable 
cultivation.  The  system  cf  agriculture  here  followed 
is  a  rotation  of  five,  six,  or  seven  years,  of  which  the 
five  years'  consists  of  grain  ;  turnips  ;  bear,  and  some- 
times oats,  with  clover  and  rye-grass  ;  hay  or  pasture  ; 
and  pasture.  Large  flocks  of  sheep  were  formerly  to  be 
seen,  but  they  have  been  greatly  diminished  since  the 
inclosures  and  the  plantations  in  the  parish  were  made, 
and  there  are  now  but  a  small  number  kept  for  home 
consumption  :  the  cattle  are  mostly  the  native  Aberdeen, 
which  are  frequently  crossed  with  the  short-horned  breed, 
and  in  some  grounds  these  latter  are  preferred  unmixed. 

2  Y 


D  Y  CE 


DYKE 


The  farm-houses  are  in  general  good  and  substantial 
dwellings,  and  some  of  them  very  superior ;  the  stead- 
ings are  complete  sets  of  buildings  of  a  quadran- 
gular form,  slated,  and  usually  supplied  with  thresh- 
ing-mills. On  the  smaller  farms,  however,  the  houses 
and  inclosures  are  of  an  inferior  description,  though  in 
a  state  of  progressive  improvement.  Great  changes 
have  been  effected  within  the  last  twenty  years  in  im- 
proving inferior  soils,  six  or  seven  hundred  acres  of 
which  have  been  successfully  treated  ;  and  a  very  large 
embankment  has  been  raised,  as  a  protection  against 
the  destructive  inundations  of  the  river  Don,  the  floods 
of  which  have  recently  been  much  augmented  through 
the  multiplication  of  drains.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  now  amounts  to  £35/0. 

The  prevailing  rock  in  the  district  is  granite ;  a  large 
supply  is  obtained  from  quarries  in  the  hill  of  Tyre- 
bagger,  and  stone  has  at  various  times  been  cut  for  the 
Bell-rock  lighthouse,  Sheerness  quay,  Deptford  quay, 
the  West  India  docks,  the  custom-house  of  London, 
St.  Katherine's  docks,  and  new  London  bridge.  Very 
extensive  plantations  of  Scotch  fir  and  larch  have  been 
made  on  the  hill,  and  are  the  resort  of  roe-deer,  black- 
cock, and  a  good  supply  of  woodcock  ;  but  the  grouse 
which  were  so  numerous  before  the  formation  of  plan- 
tations have  almost  entirely  disappeared.  On  the  lower 
grounds  are  found  partridges,  snipe,  wild-duck,  hares, 
and  rabbits.  The  inhabitants  of  the  parish  are  employed 
chiefly  in  agriculture  and  in  working  in  the  quarries. 
The  great  turnpike-road  from  Aberdeen  to  Inverness, 
via  Huntly,  runs  along  the  western  boundary  for  about 
two  miles ;  the  turnpike-road  from  Aberdeen  to  Banff 
crosses  the  eastern  quarter  ;  and  the  centre  is  intersected 
by  the  canal  from  Aberdeen  to  Inverury,  by  which  coal, 
lime,  and  manure  are  brought  up,  and  grain  and  other 
farm  produce  sent  back,  passage-boats  plying  on  it 
twice  a  day  during  summer.  Among  the  mansions  are, 
Caskieben,  the  seat  of  Dr.  Alexander  Henderson,  author 
of  a  work  on  wines,  and  Pitmedden,  both  modern 
buildings.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by 
the  presbytery  and  synod  of  Aberdeen.  The  stipend 
of  the  minister  is  £160,  of  which  nearly  a  third  is  drawn 
from  the  exchequer ;  there  is  a  manse,  with  good  offices, 
built  some  few  years  since,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at 
£7.  10.  per  annum;  patron,  John  Gordon  Gumming 
Skene,  Esq.  The  church  is  an  old  edifice,  of  uncertain 
date,  and  small  and  uncomfortable ;  it  stands  at  the 
northern  extremity  of  the  parish,  upon  a  rocky  point 
formed  by  a  winding  of  the  river  Don,  and  commands  a 
fine  view,  extending  to  twenty  miles,  of  the  scenery 
with  which  the  course  of  that  stream  is  ornamented. 
There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  Latin  is  taught, 
with  the  usual  branches  of  education  ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  fees  amounting  to  about  £8,  and  an 
allowance  from  the  fund  of  the  late  Mr.  Dick.  The 
chief  relic  of  antiquity  is  a  Druidical  temple  situated 
on  the  southern  slope  of  Tyrebagger  hill,  and  command- 
ing an  extensive  view  of  the  sea-coast  and  the  lower 
grounds  ;  it  is  formed  of  ten  large  pieces  of  granite,  dis- 
posed about  eight  feet  distant  from  each  other,  in  the  form 
of  a  circle,  and  rising  to  the  height  of  from  five  to  ten  feet 
above  the  ground.  Urns  have  sometimes  been  disco- 
vered. In  the  churchyard  is  one  of  the  oblong  monu- 
mental stones  commonly  supposed  to  be  of  Runic  origin, 
but  justly  traced  to  more  recent  times  ;  among  a  great 
346  B     S 


variety  of  other  sculpture,  it  is  marked  by  a  cross, 
forming  a  prominent  object  in  the  graving.  Arthur 
Johnston,  of  Caskieben,  a  celebrated  Latin  scholar,  was 
connected  with  this  place. 

DYKE  and  MOY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Elgin, 
3  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Forres  ;  containing,  with  the 
villages  of  Kintessack  and  Whitemyre,  1366  inhabitants, 
of  whom  166  are  resident  within  the  village  of  Dyke. 
These  two  ancient  parishes,  of  which  the  Gaelic  names 
are  descriptive  of  the  former  as  a  channel  for  waters, 
and  of  the  latter  as  a  level  and  fertile  plain,  were  united 
in  1618.  The  whole  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Moray  Frith,  and  on  the  west  by  the  county  of  Nairn, 
and  comprises  about  17,300  acres,  of  which  3220  are 
arable,  2S00  woodland  and  plantations,  1300  meadow 
and  pasture,  and  the  remainder  waste.  The  surface  is 
generally  undulated  within  the  district  of  Dyke,  which 
contains  the  forest  of  Darnaway  towards  the  south,  and 
the  woods  of  Dalvey  and  Brodie  towards  the  north. 
In  the  district  of  Moy  is  a  fine  extent  of  level  plain, 
stretching  northward  to  Kincorth,  on  the  western  shore  of 
Findhorn  loch,  towards  the  lands  of  Culbin,  which  at 
a  very  early  period  were  overwhelmed  with  drifts  of 
sand,  and  are  now  covered  with  sand-hills,  some  having 
an  elevation  of  100  feet.  The  river  Findhorn,  which, 
in  its  course  to  the  sea  at  Findhorn,  forms  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  parish,  in  1829  rose  to  an  unusual 
height,  and  carried  into  the  bay  an  immense  quantity 
of  sand,  which  for  three  square  miles  diminished  its 
depth  by  nearly  two  feet.  Several  rivulets  intersect 
the  parish,  and  flow  into  the  Findhorn,  of  which  the 
most  considerable  is  the  Muckleburn  ;  they  all  abound 
with  trout,  and  afford  good  sport  to  the  angler,  and  the 
salmon-fishery  in  the  Findhorn  is  of  considerable  value. 
The  coast  throughout  the  entire  extent  of  the  parish 
for  about  six  miles  is  shallow  and  sandy  :  there  are 
numerous  beds  of  cockles,  which  not  only  afford  an 
abundant  supply  for  sustenance  to  the  poor,  but  are 
sold  by  the  women  through  the  adjoining  district, 
making  a  return  of  more  than  £100  per  annum,  on  the 
average. 

The  soil  on  the  level  lands  is  a  rich  brown  and  black 
loam,  generally  light,  and  easily  cultivated ;  and  in 
other  parts  of  the  parish  are  alternations  of  sand  and 
gravel.  The  crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  turnips, 
and  potatoes,  with  the  usual  grasses ;  the  system  of 
agriculture  is  in  an  improved  state,  and  furrow-draining 
has  been  tried  with  success  upon  some  of  the  farms  : 
lime,  marl,  and  bone-dust  have  been  extensively  adopted 
for  manure.  The  lands,  however,  are  only  partly  in- 
closed, and  the  farm-buildings,  though  more  commo- 
dious than  formerly,  are  susceptible  of  still  greater 
improvement;  there  are  sixteen  threshing-mills,  the 
greater  number  worked  by  horses.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £5942.  The  woods,  which  are 
extensive,  are  oak,  ash,  beech,  elm,  birch,  horse-ches- 
nut,  sycamore,  and  alder  ;  and  in  the  forest  of  Darna- 
way much  valuable  timber  is  raised  and  sold  for  ship- 
building and  other  purposes.  The  plantations,  which 
are  well  managed  and  in  a  thriving  state,  consist  of 
larch,  and  spruce  and  Scotch  firs ;  and  there  are  several 
flourishing  orchards  in  the  parish.  The  substrata  are 
principally  old  red  sandstone,  with  gneiss  and  granite ; 
there  is  coarse  limestone,  containing  schist  and  pyrites 
of  iron ;   and  occasionally  some  lead-ore  is  found,  but 


DYKE 


D  Y  S  A 


not  in  sufficient    quantity   to  encourage    the    working 
of  it. 

Darnaway  Castle,  one  of  the  seats  of  the  Earl  of 
Moray,  situated  on  a  gentle  eminence,  and  surrounded 
by  an  extensive  and  richly-wooded  park,  has  been  re- 
cently enlarged  and  improved.  In  one  of  the  wings,  in 
the  more  ancient  part  of  the  building,  is  a  noble  hall 
eighty-nine  feet  in  length,  and  thirty-five  feet  wide,  with 
a  lofty  roof  of  timber  frame-work,  built  by  Thomas 
Randolph,  Earl  of  Moray,  regent  of  Scotland  during  the 
minority  of  David  Bruce,  and  in  which  are  still  pre- 
served his  hospitable  table  and  chair  of  old  carved  oak  : 
in  this  splendid  hall  the  late  earl  gave  a  sumptuous 
entertainment  to  his  tenantry  in  1S39.  Brodie  House  is 
an  ancient  castellated  mansion,  to  which  extensive  addi- 
tions in  a  corresponding  style  of  architecture  have 
been  made  by  the  present  proprietor,  and  is  situated  in 
grounds  that  have  been  tastefully  embellished ;  the 
ceiling  of  the  drawing-room  is  laid  out  in  compartments 
ornamented  with  grotesque  figures  of  stucco  in  high 
relief,  and  in  the  various  rooms  is  a  valuable  collection 
of  paintings.  Dalvey  House,  situated  on  a  knoll  over- 
looking the  Muckleburn,  and  nearly  occupying  the  site 
of  the  castle  of  Dalvey,  is  a  handsome  modern  mansion  ; 
the  gardens,  which  are  extensive,  and  kept  in  fine  order, 
are  open  to  public  inspection.  The  houses  of  Moy  and 
Kincorth  are  also  good  residences. 

The  village  of  Dyke   is  beautifully  situated  in  a  se- 
cluded spot  embosomed  in  trees  :  facility  of  communi- 
cation is  afforded  by  the  great  post-road  from  Aberdeen 
to  Inverness,  which  passes  through  the  parish,  and  by 
other  good   roads  that  intersect  it  in  all  directions,  by 
bridges  over  the  several  burns,  and  by  an  elegant  sus- 
pension-bridge  over  the   Findhorn,  which  connects  the 
parish  with  Forres,  the  nearest  post-town.     The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
presbytery  of  Forres  and  synod  of  Moray.     The  minis- 
ter's stipend   is  £'244.    11.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £16.  13.;  patrons,  the  Crown  and  James  M. 
Grant,  Esq.,  of  Moy.    The  church,  conveniently  situated 
in  the  village,   is  a  neat  structure  erected  in   1781,  in 
good  repair,  and  containing  900  sittings,  all  of  which 
are  rent  free.     The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a 
place  of  worship.     The  parochial  school  is  well  attended  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  gar- 
den, and  the  fees  average  £30  per  annum,  besides  which 
he  receives  £44  from  the  Dick  bequest :  there  is  also 
a   female    school   in   the  village,  under  a  teacher  who 
has  a  house  and  garden,  with  a  small  endowment  in 
money.     In  the  park    of  Brodie  House  is   a  stone   on 
one  side    of  which    is  sculptured  a  cross,  and  on   the 
other  several  fabulous    animals ;    it  was   discovered  in 
digging  the  foundation  for  the  church,  and  was  erected 
in  the  village  in  commemoration  of  Rodney's  victory, 
and  thence  called  Rodney's  Cross,  but  was  removed  to 
its    present  situation   within   the   last    few   years.     In 
sinking  the   same  foundations,  a  labourer,  who  had  con- 
trived to  keep  the  discovery  a  secret  from  his  compa- 
nions, found  in  an  earthen  pot  a  large  number  of  silver 
coins  of  the  reign  of  William  the  Lion  of  Scotland,  of 
which  many  had  been   struck  at  Stirling,  and  some  of 
Henry  II.  of  England,  all  which  he  sold  by  weight  for 
£46.     About   the   year    1832    there  was  dug  out  of  a 
steep  bank  on  the  Findhorn  a  large  stone  coffin  con- 
taining a  human  skeleton. 
347 


DYSART,  a  burgh,  sea- 
port town,  and  parish,  in  the 
districtof  Kirkcaldy,  county 
ftr?%  of  Fife  ;  including  the  vil- 
*mf  lages  of  Boreland  and  Galla- 
gf]  town,  the  late  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Pathhead,  and  part 
of  that  of  Thornton  ;  and 
containing  7591  inhabitants, 
of  whom  1SS5  are  in  the  town, 
2  miles  (E.)  from  Kirkcaldy, 
and  14  (N.  by  E.)  from  Edin- 
burgh. This  place  appears 
to  have  retained  its  original  name,  which  in  the  Gaelic 
language  signifies  the  "  Temple  of  the  Most  High,"  from 
its  rise  to  the  present  time.  The  earliest  event  upon 
record  connected  with  it  is  the  invasion  of  Fife  by  the 
Danes,  towards  the  close  of  the  ninth  century,  when, 
bringing  their  fleet  to  anchor  in  the  Frith  of  Forth,  they 
landed  on  the  coast  of  this  parish,  and  marching  into 
the  interior,  were  opposed  by  the  natives,  who,  assem- 
bling to  obstruct  their  progress,  gave  them  battle  in  a  field 
about  a  mile  to  the  north  of  the  town.  To  commemo- 
rate this  occurrence,  a  large  stone  was  erected  in  the 
centre  of  the  field  of  battle,  which  still  points  out  the 
spot.  Few  particulars  of  historical  importance  have 
been  preserved  to  throw  any  light  upon  the  origin  and 
progress  of  the  town ;  the  records  of  the  burgh,  and 
other  ancient  documents  in  the  possession  of  the  Sinclair 
family,  were  burnt  in  1715,  when  the  mansion  of  Lord 
Sinclair  was  destroyed  by  an  accidental  fire.  The  castle 
of  Ravenscraig,  a  little  to  the  west  of  the  town,  was, 
together  with  the  adjoining  lands,  granted  by  James  III. 
to  William  Sinclair,  Earl  of  Orkney,  on  his  resignation  of 
that  title,  and  has  ever  since  been  in  the  possession  of 
the  family  :  here  Lord  Sinclair  used  to  hold  his  baronial 
court,  and  the  castle  continued  to  be  a  residence  till  the 
Restoration,  after  which  it  was  suffered  to  fall  into  decay, 
and  it  is  now  a  ruin  of  romantic  appearance,  seated  on  a 
steep  rock  overlooking  the  sea. 

The  town,  which  is  of  great  antiquity,  and  was  once 
the  principal  trading  port  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  com- 
prises three  narrow  streets  diverging  from  an  open  area 
in  the  centre,  in  which  is  situated  the  town-hall ;  and 
still  retains  much  of  its  original  character.  The  high 
street  consists  of  substantial  houses  of  antique  appear- 
ance, some  till  lately  having  in  front  piazzas,  under 
which  the  merchants  and  dealers  formerly  sold  their 
wares.  Extensive  salt-works  appear  to  have  been  esta- 
blished here  at  a  very  early  period,  from  which,  about 
the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century,  not  only  the  chief 
towns  in  Scotland  were  supplied,  but  also  great  quantities 
were  exported  to  Holland.  From  that  period  the  trade 
of  the  town  and  port  continued  to  flourish  for  two  or 
three  centuries ;  malting  and  brewing  were  carried  on  to 
a  considerable  extent ;  large  quantities  of  merchandise  of 
every  description  were  regularly  exposed  for  sale,  and 
the  high  street  and  the  square  were  thronged  with  mer- 
chants. Its  port  was  crowded  with  shipping,  and  its 
foreign  and  domestic  commerce  advanced  beyond  that  of 
any  other  town  in  this  part.  This  state  of  prosperity  lasted 
till  the  Union,  after  which  it  began  to  decline  ;  its  port 
was  almost  deserted,  its  trade  with  foreign  coasts  nearly 
annihilated,  and  its  manufactures  greatly  diminished. 
From  this  depression,  however,  it  in  some  degree  reco- 

2  Y2 


D  Y  S  A 


D  Y  S  A 


vered,  though  it  is  far  from  having  regained  its  former 
importance ;  a  manufactory  of  nails  was  established  in 
the  town,  in  which,  till  within  the  last  forty  or  fifty 
years,  about  100  persons  were  constantly  employed,  and 
the  quantity  of  nails  annually  made  was  valued  at  £2000. 
Many  of  them,  used  in  ship-building,  were  sent  to  Edin- 
burgh, Glasgow,  and  the  principal  towns  in  the  north, 
but  for  some  years  this  branch  of  trade  has  been  declin- 
ing, and  it  is  at  present  only  carried  on  to  a  very  limited 
extent.  The  manufacture  of  linen-cloth  has  also  greatly 
diminished ;  but  one  branch  of  it  still  continues  to 
flourish.  The  chief  trade  now  pursued  is  the  manufac- 
ture of  checks  and  ticking,  which  was  established  about 
a  century  since,  and  has  been  uniformly  increasing  ;  2000 
looms  are  constantly  in  use  ;  the  number  of  yards 
annually  produced  is  more  than  31,000,000,  and  the 
value  above  £150,000.  This  trade  affords  employment 
to  about  5000  persons;  the  articles  are  sent  to  London, 
Manchester,  Liverpool,  Nottingham,  Leeds,  and  other 
places,  and  likewise  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and 
the  East  and  West  Indies.  A  mill  for  spinning  flax  was 
erected  some  years  since,  in  which  about  100  persons  are 
engaged  ;  and  there  is  a  pottery  of  stone-ware,  affording 
employment  to  a  nearly  equal  number  ;  also  a  small  rope- 
walk. 

The  business  of  the  port  consists  chiefly  in  the  ex- 
portation of  coal  and  ironstone  from  the  pits  in  the  pa- 
rish, and  in  the  importation  of  flax  and  other  goods  from 
Holland  and  the  Baltic.  There  are  eight  vessels  of  the 
aggregate  burthen  of  63S  tons  belonging  to  the  port ; 
and  the  number  of  vessels  that  entered  during  a  recent 
year,  to  deliver  or  receive  cargoes,  was  eighty-seven,  of 
the  aggregate  burthen  of  5296  tons.  The  harbour,  from 
the  ill  construction  of  the  eastern  pier,  was  once  exceed- 
ingly dangerous,  and  the  swell  so  great  as  to  subject  the 
vessels  sheltering  in  it  to  damage.  It  was  proposed 
to  take  down  that  pier,  and  to  rebuild  it  in  a  new  direc- 
tion, which,  according  to  the  opinion  of  several  eminent 
engineers,  would  not  only  remedy  the  evil,  but  render 
this  one  of  the  most  commodious  harbours  on  the  coast ; 
but,  as  the  expense  of  the  improvement  would  have  been 
beyond  the  means  possessed  by  the  town,  it  was  resolved 
merely  to  convert  a  quarry  adjoining  it  into  a  wet-dock, 
which  has  answered  the  purpose  admirably.  The  depth  of 
water  in  the  new  dock,  which  adjoins  the  western  pier, 
is  eighteen  feet  at  spring-tides  ;  and  it  is  capacious  enough 
to  hold  seventeen  or  eighteen  vessels  of  moderate  ton- 
nage, which  may  ride  in  perfect  safety,  in  addition  to 
what  the  harbour  would  formerly  accommodate.  A 
patent-slip  has  likewise  been  constructed,  at  a  consider- 
able expense,  for  repairing  ships ;  and  ship-building  is 
also  carried  on  upon  a  large  scale.  Two  steam-boats 
ply  regularly  between  this  place  and  Newhaven ;  a  sail- 
ing-packet leaves  the  port  without  fail  every  day  for 
Leith,  and  another  for  Dundee  occasionally.  Fairs 
were  formerly  held  six  times  in  the  year,  for  the  sale  of 
wool,  white  cloth,  linseed,  and  black-cattle  ;  they  were 
attended  by  numerous  merchants  from  Glasgow,  Edin- 
burgh, and  Stirling,  but  have  of  late  been  altogether 
discontinued.  Two  subscription  libraries  have  been 
established  ;  and  there  are  also  a  mechanics'  library,  one 
exclusively  for  religious  publications,  and  two  public 
reading-rooms,  which  are  well  attended. 

The  town  was  made  a  burgh  of  barony  by  Lord 
Sinclair,  and  there  is  still  extant  the  copy  of  a  summons 
348 


issued  from  Ravenscraig  Castle  to  the  bailies,  and  com- 
manding their  appearance  at  his  baronial  court.  It  was 
afterwards  erected  into  a  royal  burgh  by  charter  of 
Charles  II.,  and  the  government  was  vested  in  two 
bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  a  council  of  twenty-one  bur- 
gesses ;  but  in  consequence  of  an  error  in  the  election 
of  the  council  in  1831,  the  burgh  was  disfranchised  by 
judgment  of  the  court  of  session,  who  appointed  three 
managers  to  take  charge  of  its  affairs,  by  whom,  from 
the  impossibility  of  electing  a  council  subsequently,  the 
concerns  of  the  town  are  still  administered.  The  juris- 
diction of  the  magistrates  extends  to  the  bounds  of  the 
royalty.  The  treasurer  and  the  town-clerk,  who  acts 
also  as  assessor,  and  the  other  officers,  are  at  present 
appointed  by  the  managers;  the  bailies  act  as  justices  of 
the  peace  for  the  royalty,  and  hold  a  court  for  the  deter- 
mination of  civil  actions,  but  in  1831  only  four  civil 
cases  were  brought  before  it  for  decision,  and  there  is 
no  record  of  any  criminal  cases  whatever.  Burgesses 
and  freemen  residing  within  the  burgh  are  exempt  from 
one-third  of  the  dues  paid  by  strangers  on  the  landing 
of  goods  at  the  quay.  Dysart,  by  the  act  of  the  2nd  and 
3rd  of  William  IV.,  unites  with  Kirkcaldy,  Kinghorn, 
and  Burntisland,  in  returning  a  member  to  the  imperial 
parliament;  the  right  of  election  is  vested  in  the  resi- 
dent householders  of  the  annual  value  of  £10  and  up- 
wards, the  number  of  whom  within  the  limits  of  the 
municipal  burgh  is  thirty-two,  thechief  of  them  being  bur- 
gesses. The  number  of  £10  householders  without  the 
municipal,  but  within  the  parliamentary  limits,  is  124  ; 
and  the  whole  number  of  voters  at  a  late  election  was  106. 
The  town-hall  is  a  plain  substantial  building  of  stone, 
with  a  tower  surmounted  by  a  spire  ;  it  was  originally 
erected  in  1617,  and  contains  a  spacious  hall  for  the 
transaction  of  municipal  affairs,  a  guard-house,  weigh- 
house,  and  prison.  During  the  civil  war  in  the  reign  of 
Charles  I.,  the  former  building  was  converted  into  a 
barrack  by  Cromwell's  soldiers,  one  of  whom  entering 
the  magazine  with  a  lighted  match,  the  powder  exploded, 
and  reduced  the  whole  building  to  ruins,  in  which  state 
it  remained  for  some  years,  till  it  was  rebuilt. 

The  parish,  situated  on  the  Frith  of  Forth,  is  about 
four  miles  in  length,  and  three  in  breadth,  and  comprises 
3054  Scottish  acres,  of  which  about  400  are  natural 
woods  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  arable  land  in 
good  cultivation.  The  coast,  which  extends  for  about 
two  miles,  is  abrupt  and  rugged,  and  marked  in  several 
parts  with  rocks  of  considerable  elevation.  The  surface 
rises  gradually  towards  the  north,  and  in  the  more  level 
tracts  is  enlivened  by  two  small  rivers,  the  Oar  and  the 
Lochty,  of  which  the  former  has  its  source  in  the  parish 
of  Dunfermline,  and,  receiving  in  its  course  two  streams 
issuing  respectively  from  the  lochs  of  Fittie  and  Gellie, 
flows  in  an  eastern  direction  into  the  river  Leven  in  the 
parish  of  Markinch.  The  Lochty  rises  in  the  parish  of 
Kinglassie,  and  falls  into  the  Oar  at  a  short  distance 
from  the  influx  of  that  stream  into  the  Leven.  The  soil 
is  in  general  fertile,  and  the  substratum  abounds  in 
mineral  wealth  ;  the  most  improved  system  of  husbandry 
is  adopted,  and  much  waste  land  has  been  reclaimed, 
and  brought  into  cultivation.  The  crops  are,  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  of  which  large  quan- 
tities are  raised  for  the  supply  of  the  neighbouring  mar- 
kets. Great  attention  is  paid  to  live  stock  :  there  are, 
however,  very  few  sheep ;  the  cattle  are  generally  of  the 


D  Y  S  A 


E  A  GL 


Fifeshire,  Ayrshire,  and  Teeswater  breeds  ;  the  rearing 
of  horses  is  an  object  of  particular  solicitude,  and  many 
fine  specimens  are  produced.  The  plantations,  of  which 
more  than  300  acres  are  on  the  property  of  the  Earl  of 
Rosslyn,  are  chiefly  fir,  oak,  and  elm,  which  are  well 
managed  and  very  thriving  ;  the  lands  are  inclosed,  and 
the  fences  kept  in  good  repair  ;  the  farm-buildings  and 
offices,  also,  are  very  superior.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £10,775.  The  substrata  are, 
limestone,  which  is  extensively  quarried  for  agricultural 
and  other  purposes  ;  sandstone,  which,  though  inferior  in 
appearance,  is  notwithstanding  of  good  quality  ;  clay- 
stone,  worked  on  a  large  scale  for  pavements,  hearths, 
and  other  uses  ;  coal,  of  which  there  are  not  less  than 
fourteen  beds  on  the  estate  of  the  Earl  of  Rosslyn ;  and 
ironstone,  which  is  found  below  the  coal,  of  excellent 
quality,  producing  about  twelve  hundred  weight  of  iron 
from  every  ton.  Most  of  the  beds  of  coal  are  thin  ;  but 
three  of  them,  lying  above  each  other,  are  now  being 
worked,  of  which  the  uppermost  is  five,  the  next  eight, 
and  the  lowest  five  feet  in  thickness.  The  pits  are  sunk 
to  a  depth  of  seventy  fathoms,  and  produce  an  abun- 
dant supply  :  the  coal  is  slow  in  burning,  but  throws  out 
an  intense  heat ;  it  was  among  the  first  that  was  wrought 
in  Scotland,  and  there  are  the  remains  of  some  exhausted 
mines  that  are  supposed  to  have  been  in  operation  more 
than  three  centuries  since.  Five  beds  of  ironstone  are 
worked  a  little  to  the  westward  of  the  coal-mines,  where 
it  lies  nearer  to  the  surface  ;  it  is  wrought  on  an  exten- 
sive scale,  and  the  produce  is  shipped  to  Carron,  for 
the  supply  of  the  foundries  of  that  place.  The  landed 
proprietors  of  the  parish,  by  the  encouragement  they 
have  given  to  improvements  of  every  kind,  have  contri- 
buted greatly  to  its  prosperity  :  the  Earl  of  Rosslyn 
occasionally  resides  here,  in  a  mansion  situated  a  little 
westward  of  the  town,  commanding  an  extensive  view 
of  the  Frith  and  the  richly-varied  scenery  of  the  adjacent 
country.  The  house  is  spacious,  and  of  handsome 
appearance,  and  the  grounds  are  extensive,  and  finely 
planted  with  ornamental  timber  and  forest  trees,  of 
which  many  are  of  stately  growth. 

The  parish  is  ecclesiastically  in  the  presbytery  of 
Kirkcaldy  and  synod  of  Fife  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Ross- 
lyn. The  church  being  collegiate,  there  are  two  incum- 
bents 5  the  stipend  of  the  first  is  £'265.  10.,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £21.  S.  per  annum  ;  the  stipend  of 
the  second  minister  is  £20~.  11.,  without  either  manse  or 
glebe.  The  church,  erected  in  1802,  is  a  neat  and  sub- 
stantial edifice  situated  at  one  extremity  of  the  town, 
and  is  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  1600  persons.  A 
church  was  erected  by  subscription  in  the  village  of 
Pathhead  within  the  last  twenty  years,  at  an  expense  of 
£3000  ;  and  the  parish  has  for  ecclesiastical  purposes 
been  divided  by  the  presbytery,  and  one  division  allotted 
to  each  of  the  parochial  ministers.  There  are  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  the  Relief, 
and  Antiburghers.  A  subscription  school  was  lately 
erected,  forming  a  great  ornament  to  the  town,  from 
the  elegance  of  its  design.  The  Burgh  school,  which 
is  also  the  parochial  school,  affords  a  liberal  course 
of  instruction,  but  from  its  situation  is  accessible 
only  to  residents  in  the  town  ;  the  master,  who  is 
elected  by  the  town-council,  has  a  salary  of  £43  per 
annum,  arising  partly  from  the  funds  of  the  burgh, 
and  partly  from  the  interest  of  money  bequeathed  for 
349 


that  purpose,  with  £50  school  fees,  and  an  allowance 
in  lieu  of  a  house  and  garden.  There  is  an  endowed 
school  at  Pathhead,  the  master  of  which  has  a  good 
salary  for  teaching  150  children  reading,  writing,  and 
arithmetic  ;  also  one  in  Boreland,  of  which  the  master  has 
£S  per  annum,  with  a  school-room  and  dwelling-house 
rent  free,  and  a  supply  of  coal.  The  parish  contains 
several  religious  societies,  the  principal  of  which  are,  a 
Bible  and  missionary  association  which  gives  part  of  its 
income  to  the  Gaelic  and  Hibernian  Societies  ;  a  Sabbath- 
evening  school  society  ;  and  a  society  for  the  education 
of  children,  which  pays  one-half  of  the  school  fees  for 
the  children  of  such  parents  as  are  willing  to  pay  the 
other  half.  There  is  a  society  for  the  support  of  indi- 
gent and  aged  females,  which  appropriates  about  £40 
annually  to  that  purpose.  Three  friendly  societies,  also, 
belonging  respectively  to  maltmen,  bakers,  and  sailors, 
have  been  established  in  the  town  for  more  than  two 
centuries ;  and  their  funds,  which  are  ample,  are  exclu- 
sively appropriated  to  the  relief  of  poor  members.  In 
the  south  part  of  the  town  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Dennis ;  parts  of  the  old  walls 
are  standing,  but  the  building  itself  has  been  converted 
into  a  forge.  Near  the  site  of  this  chapel  are  the  re- 
mains of  the  old  church,  which  appears  to  have  been 
a  venerable  structure,  the  porch  and  the  tower  bearing 
evidence  of  great  antiquity ;  the  former  has  a  groined 
roof  of  stone,  and  above  the  door  are  two  sculptured 
stones,  one  of  which  seems  to  have  been  a  pedestal  for  a 
statue,  probably  of  the  tutelar  saint.  Nearly  in  the 
centre  of  the  harbour  is  a  high  rock  called  the  Fort,  and 
supposed  to  have  been  fortified  by  the  troops  of  Crom- 
well during  the  parliamentary  war  ;  but  no  traces  of 
any  military  works  are  visible.  On  the  lands  of  Car- 
berry  farm  the  Romans  are  said  to  have  had  a  camp, 
though  no  vestiges  are  at  present  discernible ;  and 
about  a  mile  to  the  west  of  the  town  are  the  Red  rocks, 
concerning  which  many  traditionary  stories  are  current. 
Robert  Beatson,  who  obtained  an  ensigncy  in  1756,  and 
was  present  at  the  taking  of  Martinique  and  Guadeloupe, 
was  born  in  this  parish  ;  he  was  distinguished  as  the 
author  of  a  Political  Index  to  the  History  of  Great  Britain 
and  Ireland,  a  chronological  register  of  both  houses  of 
parliament,  and  other  works.  Dysart  gives  the  title  of 
Earl  to  the  family  of  Tollemache ;  the  first  earl  was  son 
of  the  Rev.  William  Murray,  incumbent  of  the  parish, 
and  acted  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I. 


E 


EAGLESFIELD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Mid- 
dlebie,  county  of  Dumfries  ;  containing  456  inhabit- 
ants. This  is  the  principal  of  three  flourishing  villages 
in  the  parish,  erected  within  the  last  twenty  years,  and 
the  inhabitants  of  which  are  to  a  considerable  extent 
engaged  in  weaving. 

EAGLESHAM,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ren- 
frew, 9  miles  (S.)  from  Glasgow ;  containing  2428  in- 
habitants, of  whom  1S01  are  in  the  village.  This  place, 
which  is  of  considerable  antiquity,  is  supposed  to  have 
derived  its  name,  of  Celtic  origin,  from  the  erection  of 
its  ancient  church.  It  formed  part  of  the  district  of 
Mearns,  and,  together  with  other  lands,  was  granted  by 


E  AGL 


E  A  G  L 


David  I.,  King  of  Scotland,  to  Walter,  son  of  Alan,  the 
first  of  the  Stuarts,  from  whom  Robert  de  Montgomerie, 
of  Oswestry,  in  England,  procured  the  manor  of  Eagles- 
ham  about  the  middle  of  the  twelfth  century.  After 
the  accession  of  the  Stuarts  to  -the  Scottish  throne,  it 
was  held  by  Robert's  descendant,  John  de  Montgomerie, 
who  also  obtained  the  baronies  of  Eglinton  and  Ardros- 
san,  by  marriage  with  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Sir  Hugh 
Eglinton  by  Egidia,  sister  of  Robert  II. ;  and  this  John 
de  Montgomerie,  with  the  ransom  of  Harry  Percy,  sur- 
named  Hotspur,  whom  he  had  taken  prisoner  at  the 
battle  of  Otterburn  in  13SS,  erected  here  the  castle  of 
Polnoon,  of  which  there  are  still  some  vestiges  remaining. 
The  parish,  which  was  almost  exclusively  the  property 
of  the  Montgomerie  family,  is  situated  in  the  south- 
east angle  of  the  county,  and  is  about  six  miles  from 
north  to  south,  and  five  and  a  half  from  east  to  west. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Earn,  which 
separates  it  from  the  parish  of  Mearns ;  on  the  south 
by  the  parish  of  Loudon  ;  on  the  east  by  the  river 
White  Cart,  which  divides  it  from  the  parishes  of  East 
Kilbride  and  Garmunnoek  ;  and  on  the  west  by  the 
parish  of  Fenwick.  The  surface  is  generally  elevated, 
and  is  intersected  from  east  to  west  by  a  ridge  of  hills, 
of  which  the  highest  vary  from  1000  to  1200  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  which,  with  the  exception  of  a 
hill  in  Lochwinnoch,  are  the  highest  in  the  county. 
The  sources  of  the  river  Cart  and  its  numerous  tribu- 
taries are  within  the  parish  :  this  river,  which  flows  in 
a  northern  course  to  Cathcart  and  Langside,  then  takes 
a  western  direction  toward  Paisley,  whence  it  deviates 
towards  the  north,  and  receives  the  waters  of  the  Black 
Cart  at  Inchinnan  Bridge  previously  to  its  influx  into 
the  Clyde.  The  surface  is  also  diversified  with  lakes, 
and  with  reservoirs  for  the  supply  of  different  mills, 
which  latter  cover  nearly  240  acres  of  ground,  and  are 
frequented  by  various  species  of  aquatic  fowl. 

The  whole  number  of  acres  is  estimated  at  15,500,  of 
which  about  6100  are  arable,  nearly  4000  meadow  and 
pasture,  about  60  woodland  and  plantations,   and  the 
remainder  moorland  pasture  and  moss.    The  soil  along 
the  banks  of  the  Cart,  and  towards  the  west,  though 
light,  is  fertile  ;  but  many  of  the  inhabitants  rely  more  on 
the  pasturage  of  sheep  and  the  rearing  of  cattle  than  on. 
the  cultivation  of  the  lands.     The  principal  crops  are, 
oats,  barley,  and  potatoes  ;    the  system  of  agriculture 
has  been  improved  ;  much  progress  has  been  made  in 
draining,    and    considerable    quantities    of  waste    have 
been  reclaimed.     Many  of  the  farm-houses  and  offices 
have  been  rebuilt  on  a  more  commodious  plan,  and  the 
more   recent   improvements    in   husbandry    have   been 
adopted  ;  the  dairy-farms  are  in  general  well  managed, 
and  the  produce  finds  a  ready  sale  in  the  market  of 
Glasgow.     The  cows  are  chiefly  of  the  Ayrshire  ibreed, 
of  which   about  1000  are  pastured  on  the  farms,  and 
4000  sheep  are  maintained  on  the  moorland  pastures ; 
few  horses  are  reared,  the  greater  number  being  pur- 
chased in  the  spring  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  sold 
again  in  the  autumn.     The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £11,800.     The  moors  abound  with  grouse  and 
other  species  of  game,  and  afford  a  fine  field  of  sport  to 
the  members  of  the  Clydesdale  Coursing  Club,  the  hares 
being  numerous  and  swift,  and  requiring  greater  energy 
and  perseverance  in  the  chase  than  those  in  the  more 
lowland  countries.     Trout  and  various  other  kinds  of 
350 


fish  abound  in  the  lakes,  and  a  peculiar  species  found 
in  the  Clyde  and  the  Avon  was  originally  introduced 
by  Lady  Anne  Hamilton  from  this  vicinity.  The  plan- 
tations are  chiefly  the  common  Scotch  fir,  which  thrives 
admirably,  and  larch,  for  which  the  soil  is  better  adapted 
than  for  many  other  sorts ;  hard-woods  of  different 
kinds  are  found  in  the  lower  grounds  and  more  shel- 
tered situations.  The  rocks  in  the  higher  lands  are 
generally  of  the  trap  species,  intermixed  in  some  places 
with  porphyritic  claystone,  and  abounding  in  others 
with  jasper,  chalcedony,  blue  quartz,  calcareous  spar, 
and  felspar  containing  beautiful  crystals. 

Alexander,  the  eighth  earl  of  Eglinton,  obtained  for 
the  inhabitants  a  charter  for  a  weekly  market  and  an 
annual  fair,  in  1672  ;  the  market  has  been  discontinued, 
as  well  as  the  fair,  which  was  mostly  for  cattle,  and  was 
on  the  24th  of  April,  O.  S. ;  but  there  is  still  a  fair  on 
the  last  Thursday  in  August,  when  horse-races  take 
place.  The  village,  which  was  laid  out  on  a  new  plan 
by  the  tenth  earl,  is  about  one-third  of  a  mile  in  length, 
and  consists  of  two  ranges  of  houses,  between  which  is 
a  spacious  green,  varying  from  100  to  250  yards  in 
breadth,  disposed  in  lawns,  interspersed  with  trees,  and 
divided  in  the  centre  by  a  streamlet  of  clear  water.  In 
the  rear  of  each  of  the  houses  is  a  rood  of  garden  ;  the 
inhabitants  have  also  seventy  acres  of  ground  rent  free, 
which  are  laid  out  in  meadows  and  plantations.  The 
manufacture  of  silk  was  formerly  considerable,  employ- 
ing sixty-three  looms  in  the  village ;  but  that  branch  of 
trade  has  been  superseded  by  the  weaving  of  cotton 
goods,  for  which  materials  are  provided  by  the  manu- 
facturers of  Glasgow  and  Paisley,  and  afford  employ- 
ment to  nearly  400  persons,  resident  in  the  village.  At 
the  higher  extremity  of  the  rivulet  that  flows  through 
the  green  is  an  extentive  cotton-mill,  the  property  of 
Messrs.  Mc  Lean  and  Brodie,  of  Glasgow,  in  which  are 
15,312  spindles,  set  in  motion  by  a  water-wheel  of  cast- 
iron  forty-five  feet  in  diameter,  and  equivalent  to  the 
power  of  fifty  horses ;  it  gives  occupation  to  200  per- 
sons, of  whom  more  than  one-half  are  females.  There 
is  also  a  mill  at  Mill-hall,  employing  620  spindles  and 
nearly  seventy  persons,  of  whom  about  one-third  are 
females ;  this  establishment  is  chiefly  engaged  in  spin- 
ning shuttle-cord  for  power-looms,  and  wicks  for  can- 
dles, and  the  machinery  is  impelled  by  a  water-wheel  of 
24-horse  power.  The  parish  likewise  contains  a  corn- 
mill  in  which  about  3000  bolls  of  grain  are  ground 
annually.  There  is  a  post-office,  with  a  good  delivery ; 
and  facility  of  intercourse  with  Glasgow,  Paislej^,  Hamil- 
ton, and  other  towns  is  maintained  by  excellent  roads,  of 
which  seven  miles  of  turnpike  pass  through  the  parish. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  presbytery  of  Glasgow  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and 
Ayr;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £27S.  14.,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £25  per  annum ;  patron,  Allan 
Gilmour,  Esq.  The  church,  erected  in  1788,  is  a  neat 
structure  of  octagonal  form,  containing  550  sittings, 
most  of  which  are  free.  There  are  places  of  worship 
for  members  of  the  United  Secession  and  a  Reformed 
Presbyterian  Congregation.  The  parochial  school  is 
attended  by  about  120  scholars ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £30,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  £50  per  annum.  There  is  another  school,  in 
which  sixty  children  are  taught.  Robert  Pollok,  author 
of  the  Course  of  Time,  was  a  native  of  the  parish. 


EARL 


EARL 


EAGLESHAY,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Rousay 
and  Eagleshay,  county  of  Orkney;  containing  190 
inhabitants.  It  lies  on  the  east  side  of  the  island  of 
Rousay,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  Hovva  Sound,  and 
is  about  two  miles  and  a  half  long  and  one  broad,  and 
entirely  composed  of  sandstone  and  sandstone  flag;  in 
some  parts  the  strata  are  very  much  elevated.  The  soil 
is  good,  but  is  indifferently  cultivated.  This  island, 
from  its  beauty,  has  been  chosen  as  a  place  of  residence 
by  several  distinguished  persons  :  the  families  of  Dou- 
glas and  Monteith,  its  former  proprietors,  resided  here, 
and  even  the  bishops  preferred  it  for  their  habitation. 
St.  Magnus  was  murdered  on  the  isle,  and  the  church, 
dedicated  to  him  as  the  tutelar  saint  of  the  Orkneys, 
is  said  to  have  been  erected  on  the  very  spot  where  the 
deed  was  perpetrated  by  his  ambitious  relative.  In  the 
month  of  October,  the  spongia  palmata  and  oculata  are 
cast  on  the  shore  in  great  abundance ;  and  a  consider- 
able quantity  of  kelp  is  produced  annually. 

EAGLESHAY,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Northma- 
vine,  county  of  Shetland.  It  is  one  of  the  smallest 
of  the  Shetland  group,  and  is  situated  in  St.  Magnus' 
bay,  a  short  distance  westward  of  Islesburgh,  on  the 
Mainland  ;  there  is  some  good  pasturage  ;  and  rabbits 
are  very  numerous. 

EALAN  NA  COOMB,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of 
Tongue,  county  of  Sutherland.  This  isle,  also  called 
Ealan  na  Naoimph.  or  Island  of  Saints,  lies  off  the 
northern  coast  of  Sutherland,  and  a  little  eastward  of 
the  mouth  of  the  Kyle  of  Tongue  ;  it  is  of  very  small 
extent,  and  of  nearly  circular  form.  Here  were  formerly 
a  chapel  and  burial-place,  of  which  the  remains  are  still 
visible. 

EALAN  NA  ROAN,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of 
Tongue,  county  of  Sutherland.  This  place,  of  which 
the  name  signifies  the  "  Island  of  Seals,"  is  situated  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Kyle  of  Tongue  ;  it  is  about  two  miles 
in  circumference,  and  is  formed  of  a  mixture  of  sand 
and  a  reddish  kind  of  pebble,  which  appear  as  if  baked 
together.  It  contains  a  large  quantity  of  peat-moss, 
and  has  plenty  of  fresh  water.  Some  years  since,  part 
of  the  land  near  the  middle  of  the  island  sank  without 
any  visible  cause,  occasioning  a  vast  chasm. 

EARLSFERRY,  a  burgh 
of  regality,  in  the  parish  of 
Kilconquhar,  district  of 
St.  Andrew's,  county  of 
Fife,  •§  a  mile  (W.)  from 
Elie,  and  2  miles  (S.)  from 
Colinsburgh;  containing  496 
inhabitants.  This  place, 
which  is  of  great  antiquity, 
and  originally  an  inconsi- 
derable fishing -village,  de- 
rived its  name,  and,  accord- 
ing to  some,  its  erection 
into  a  royal  burgh,  from  Macduff,  Thane  or  Earl  of 
Fife,  who,  fleeing  from  the  usurper  Macbeth,  took  shelter 
in  a  small  recess  in  Kincraig  hill,  a  precipitous  rock 
rising  abruptly  from  the  south-western  coast  of  the 
parish.  After  remaining  for  some  time  in  concealment, 
he  was  conveyed  across  the  Frith  of  Forth,  to  Dunbar, 
by  the  fishermen  of  the  village ;  and  in  return  for  the 
kindness  he  had  experienced,  he  is  said  to  have  obtained 
from  ;Malcolm  III.  a  charter  of  incorporation  for  the 
351 


Burgh  Seal. 


inhabitants,  erecting  the  village  into  a  royal  burgh,  to 
which,  in  memory  of  his  escape,  he  gave  the  appellation 
of  Earl's  Ferry.  Among  the  privileges  conferred  was 
that  of  sanctuary  to  all  who  should  sail  from  this  place 
across  the  Frith  ;  it  was  ordained  that  their  persons 
should  be  inviolable  while  here,  and  that,  after  their 
embarkation,  no  boat  should  be  allowed  to  go  in  pursuit 
of  them  till  they  were  half  way  across.  The  place, 
after  it  became  a  burgh,  appears  to  have  carried  on  a 
large  trade ;  two  weekly  markets  and  two  annual  fairs 
were  held,  and  the  provost  and  bailies  levied  dues  and 
customs.  But  the  want  of  a  convenient  harbour  pre- 
vented its  attaining  much  consideration  as  a  port ;  its 
trade,  which  had  for  many  years  been  declining,  was, 
from  the  construction  of  a  harbour  and  the  erection  of  a 
pier  at  Elie,  in  its  immediate  neighbourhood,  at  length 
wholly  transferred  to  that  place  ;  and  both  its  fairs  and 
markets  have  been  consequently  discontinued.  The 
inhabitants  are  chiefly  employed  in  the  coal-works  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  town,  and  in  weaving  for  the  manu- 
facturers of  Dundee,  Kirkcaldy,  and  other  places  ;  the 
articles  woven  are,  sheetings,  dowlas,  and  -.checks,  which 
are  wrought  in  hand-looms  by  the  people  at  their  own 
dwellings.  There  are  about  seventy  seamen  engaged  in 
the  harbour  and  at  the  ferry  ;  and  during  the  months  of 
July  and  August,  a  few  of  them  are  employed  in  the 
herring-fishery  on  the  north-east  coast.  Many  of  the 
weavers  who  have  been  brought  up  as  seamen  occupy 
themselves  in  summer  in  the  whale-fisheries  on  the 
coast  of  Greenland,  from  which  pursuit  they  return  to 
their  looms  in  the  winter.  The  original  charter  of 
Malcolm,  which  was  bestowed  in  the  eleventh  century, 
was  destroyed  by  fire ;  and  a  new  charter,  confirming 
all  the  privileges  it  had  conferred,  was  in  15S9  granted 
by  James  VI.,  by  which  the  government  is  vested  in 
three  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  a  council  of  sixteen  bur- 
gesses, assisted  by  a  town-clerk  and  other  officers. 
The  bailies  and  treasurer  are  elected  annually  by  the 
council  for  the  time  being,  and  on  their  appointment 
nominate  the  council  for  the  following  year ;  they  are 
invested  with  the  power  to  hold  courts  for  the  deter- 
mination of  civil  and  criminal  causes  ;  but  since  1S20, 
only  five  civil  and  one  criminal  case  have  been  de- 
cided. Prior  to  the  Union  in  1707,  the  burgh,  on  its 
own  petition,  had  been  relieved  from  sending  a  member 
to  the  Scottish  parliament ;  and  it  was  consequently,  on 
that  event,  not  included  in  those  towns  which  jointly 
return  a  member  to  the  English  house  of  commons. 
Nor,  since  the  passing  of  the  act  of  the  2nd  and  3rd  of 
William  IV.,  has  the  burgh  possessed  any  privileges 
of  this  kind,  having  merely  shared  with  the  rest  of 
Fife  in  the  election  of  a  county  representative.  The 
prison  is  in  a  state  of  dilapidation ;  it  was  latterly  seldom 
used,  and  only  for  the  temporary  confinement  of  indi- 
viduals found  guilty  of  misdemeanours ;  and  on  the 
recent  passing  of  the  Prisons'  act,  it  was  abolished  as  a 
gaol. 

EARLSTOUN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Berwick  ; 
including  the  villages  of  Fans,  Mellerstain,  and  Redpath, 
and  containing  1756  inhabitants,  of  whom  927  are  in 
the  village  of  Earlstoun,  4  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Mel- 
rose. The  name  of  this  parish,  anciently  Ersildun  or 
Ersildon,  which  appears  to  have  been  gradually  changed 
into  Earlstoun,  is  traced  by  some  antiquaries  to  the 
Cambo-British  word  Arcwl-dwi,  signifying  "  the  prospect 


EARL 


E  A  R  L 


hill,"  from  a  commanding  eminence  on  the  south  of  the 
village  and  church.  It  is,  however,  perhaps  more  cor- 
rectly derived  from  the  name  Earl,  with  the  common 
termination  of  don,  ton,  or  town,  on  account  of  its  having 
belonged  to  the  earls  of  March,  who  were  seated  here 
from  the  12th  century  till  1453,  when  they  incurred  a 
forfeiture.  David  I.  occasionally  resided  in  this  part, 
and  James  IV.,  in  the  year  1506,  granted  the  barony 
to  Mungo  Home,  whose  family  had  previously  esta- 
blished their  residence  at  Cowdenknows,  on  the  Leader, 
about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  below  the  village  of  Earls- 
toun.  This  village,  on  the  1st  of  February,  1590-1, 
was  made  a  burgh  of  barony  by  James  VI.,  in  favour 
of  John  Home,  of  Cowdenknows,  the  great  grandson  of 
Mungo ;  and  the  grant  was  confirmed  in  1592.  In 
1636,  Sir  James  Home,  the  lineal  descendant  of  this 
family,  succeeded  to  the  earldom  of  Home,  Earl  James 
having  died  without  issue.  The  parish  lies  in  the 
south-western  extremity  of  the  county,  and  is  about 
six  miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  and  about  four 
and  a  half  in  breadth,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
the  parishes  of  Gordon  and  Legerwood,  on  the  south 
by  Mertoun,  on  the  east  by  Smailholm  and  Nenthorn, 
and  on  the  west  by  Melrose,  in  Roxburghshire.  The 
surface  in  the  vicinity  of  most  of  the  streams  is  tolera- 
bly even,  but  in  the  western  quarter  it  is  more  hilly, 
though  there  is  no  remarkable  eminence,  except  in  one 
place,  about  a  mile  south  of  the  village,  where  the 
ground  attains  an  elevation  of  1000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  There  are  two  considerable  rivers,  the  Eden 
on  the  east,  and  the  Leader  on  the  west,  both  of  which 
rise  in  Lammermoor,  and  flow  into  the  Tweed,  and 
are  celebrated  for  their  fine  trout.  The  scenery  of  the 
latter  is  in  some  parts  extremely  beautiful ;  and  its 
windings  between  the  hills  of  Carolside,  and  through 
the  classic  grounds  of  Cowdenknows,  have  been  the  in- 
spiring theme  of  Scottish  song. 

The  soil   is  of  different  varieties  ;  that  of  the  arable 
land  is  generally  dry,  and  in  some  parts  a  rich  fertile 
loam.     In   the   eastern  quarter  is  a  considerable  extent 
of  marshy  ground;  barren   heath  is  met  with  in  many 
places,  and  in  the  northern  district  is  a  moss  consisting 
of  several    hundreds   of  acres.     About  5600  acres    are 
cultivated  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  and  2118  are  waste 
or  in  pasture;  the  wood   covers   915   acres,  and  on  the 
Mellerstain  estate,  where    timber   is  regularly    cut    for 
sale,   a   large    extent  of  waste   has    been  planted  with 
Scotch  fir.     Grain  of  all  kinds  is  raised,  but  the  quan- 
tity, especially  of  wheat,  has  been  small,  the  soil  being 
chiefly  suited  to  turnips,  large  crops  of  which  are  pro- 
duced.    The  five  years'  rotation  system"  is  usually  fol- 
lowed, consisting  of  two  years'   grass  ;   oats  ;    turnips ; 
and,  lastly,  oats  or  barley,  with  grass  seeds.     The  sheep 
mostly  bred   are  the  Leicesters,  and  the  cattle  are  the 
short-horned,   to  the  rearing  of  which   much  attention 
is  paid.     Many  improvements  have  been  effected  in  the 
culture   of  the    lands  ;  and  although  great  losses  have 
been  sustained    in    some    cases  by  the    reclaiming    of 
waste,  yet  considerable  progress  has  been  made  in  this 
respect,  and  the  extensive  tract  of  moss  before  named, 
having  been  redeemed  at  an  expense  of  from  £1200  to 
£1400,   now   affords  tolerable   pasture   for   cattle.     On 
the  estate  of  Cowdenknows   much  benefit  has  been  de- 
rived from   laying  out  plantations,  which  greatly  orna- 
ment the  vicinity  of  the  Leader    as  well  as  the  village 
352 


of  Earlstoun.     The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £S533. 

At  Mellerstain,  the  seat  of  the  ancient  family  of 
Baillie,  is  a  large  and  elegant  mansion,  built  by  the  grand- 
father of  the  present  owner,  George  Baillie,  Esq. ;  it  is 
embosomed  in  a  forest  of  noble  trees,  which  cover  and 
adorn  a  wide  extent  of  country.  Cowdenknows,  now 
the  property  of  James  Gilfillan,  Esq.,  stands  on  the 
Leader,  amid  scenery  which  has  for  hundreds  of  years 
been  celebrated  for  its  beauty  ;  and  Carolside,  belonging 
to  Alexander  Mitchel,  Esq.,  is  also  seated  on  the  banks  of 
the  river,  in  a  delightfully  secluded  vale  surrounded  by 
hills,  and  is  remarkable  for  the  variety  of  the  attractions 
in  its  vicinity.  The  village  of  Earlstoun  is  situated  on 
the  Leader,  near  the  new  line  of  road  from  Jedburgh  to 
Edinburgh  ;  and  the  road  from  Kelso  passes  through 
it.  There  are  two  manufactures  carried  on  in  the 
parish ;  one  is  that  of  ginghams,  merinos,  shawls,  mus- 
lins, shirtings,  and  furniture  stripes ;  and  the  other  of 
plaidings,  blankets,  flannels,  and  other  woollens.  In 
the  former,  which  is  wholly  pursued  by  hand-loom 
weavers,  about  eighty  persons  are  employed ;  in  the 
latter  the  number  of  hands  is  about  forty.  Two  fairs 
of  considerable  importance  are  held  yearly  at  Earlstoun, 
principally  for  horses  and  cattle,  one  on  the  29th  of 
June,  and  the  other  on  the  third  Thursday  in  October. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery 
of  Lauder  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ;  patron, 
the  Crown.  The  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £21S,  and 
there  is  a  manse,  erected  in  1S14,  and  repaired  in  1S24, 
to  which  is  attached  a  glebe  valued  at  £37  per  annum. 
The  church,  built  in  1736,  and  enlarged  and  thoroughly 
repaired  in  1S32,  is  situated  in  the  village,  nearly  at 
one  extremity  of  the  parish  ;  it  formerly  accommodated 
only  450  persons,  but  on  account  of  its  recent  enlarge- 
ment it  is  now  capable  of  holding  nearly  200  more. 
The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  wor- 
ship, and  there  are  also  meeting-houses  for  Antiburghers 
and  the  Relief  body.  In  the  parochial  school,  the  clas- 
sics, French,  mathematics,  and  all  the  usual  branches 
of  education  are  taught ;  the  salary  of  the  master  is  £2S, 
with  £32  from  fees,  and  the  interest  of  £550  bequeathed 
partly  by  the  Rev.  Robert  Young,  and  partly  by  the 
late  Dr.  James  Wilson,  who  was  educated  in  the  school, 
and  long  resident  in  India.  A  school  at  Mellerstain  is 
partly  supported  by  the  Baillie  family ;  and  at  Fans 
and  Redpath  are  other  schools.  At  Cowdenknows  is 
an  ancient  tower  in  a  state  of  good  preservation,  bearing 
on  its  walls  the  date  1573  ;  but  the  chief  relic  of  anti- 
quity is  part  of  a  tower  standing  at  the  west  end  of  the 
village,  called  Rhymer's  Tower,  the  ancient  residence 
of  Sir  Thomas  Learmont,  or  Thomas  of  Ercildoune, 
commonly  called  Thomas  the  Rhymer,  the  earliest,  and 
in  some  respects  the  most  remarkable,  poet  of  Scotland. 
His  predictions  respecting  many  families  of  importance, 
and  with  regard  to  the  ruin  of  his  own  family,  and 
the  union  of  the  British  dominions  under  one  monarch, 
are  all  particularly  noticed  by  Sir  Walter  Scott  in  the 
Minstrelsy  of  the  Scottish  Border.  He.  lived  about  the 
end  of  the  13th  century,  and  held  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  the  lands  of  the  parish.  On  the  summit  of 
Blackhill  is  a  vitrified  fort,  and  in  various  parts  of  the 
parish  are  circular  encampments  of  the  primitive  in- 
habitants. Near  the  western  extremity  of  the  village 
there  existed  some  years  ago  an  ancient  thorn-tree,  to 


E  A  S  D 


E  A  S  S 


which  the  older  people  attached  the  magic  power  of 
sustaining  the  fortunes  of  the  place,  so  long  as  it  re- 
mained untouched. 

EARN,  BRIDGE  OF,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Dunbarny,  county  of  Perth,  3  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from 
Perth  ;  containing  369  inhabitants.  This  place,  which 
takes  its  name  from  its  situation  near  a  bridge  across 
the  river  Earn,  consists  of  two  portions.  The  one  was 
commenced  about  1769,  by  Mr.  John  Gilloch,  who  had 
obtained  from  Sir  William  Moncrieffe  a  ninety-nine 
years'  lease  of  a  tract  of  land  between  the  old  bridge 
of  Earn  and  Seale's  bridge ;  and  the  other  was  erected 
in  1S32,  and  forms  a  street  of  regularly-disposed  houses, 
intended  chiefly  for  the  accommodation  of  persons 
visiting  the  celebrated  mineral  wells  of  Pitkeithly,  at  a 
short  distance  from  this  spot,  and  within  the  confines 
of  the  parish.  These  waters  belong  to  the  saline  class, 
as  distinguished  from  the  acidulous,  chalybeate,  and 
sulphureous,  and  contain  carbonate  of  lime,  sulphate  of 
soda,  chloride  of  calcium,  and  chloride  of  sodium,  the 
two  last  being  the  principal  ingredients  ;  there  are 
also  portions  of  carbonic  acid  and  nitrogen.  They 
have  long  been  in  repute  for  their  efficacy  in  hepatic, 
scrofulous,  and  many  other  complaints,  and  are  visited 
by  numerous  invalids,  and  used  both  internally  and  ex- 
ternally, and  both  warm  and  cold.  There  is  an  inn 
near  the  wells,  fitted  up  for  the  accommodation  of 
strangers,  and  formerly  the  mansion-house  occupied 
by  the  proprietor  of  Pitkeithly  ;  but  the  chief  inn  is 
the  Moncrieffe  Arms,  at  the  village.  Apartments  of 
every  kind  may  also  be  obtained  at  the  several  lodging- 
houses  ;  and  a  regular  post-office  is  established  here  for 
the  surrounding  district.  One  of  the  most  picturesque 
and  interesting  objects  in  the  pleasing  scenery  of  the 
vicinity  is  the  new  and  elegant  bridge,  of  three  elliptical 
arches,  erected  over  the  river  in  1S21  by  the  city  of 
Perth,  at  a  cost  of  £16,000,  in  place  of  the  old  bridge, 
built  about  500  years  since,  and  of  which  two  of  the 
five  arches  still  remain,  overgrown  with  ivy.  Two 
mail-coaches  between  Edinburgh  and  Perth  pass  through 
the  village,  besides  many  other  conveyances  to  different 
parts.  The  parish  church  and  manse,  also,  are  situated 
here. 

EASDALE,  an  island  of  the  Hebrides,  annexed  to 
the  parish  of  Kilbrandon,  in  the  district  of  Lorn, 
county  of  Argyll,  and  containing  531  inhabitants. 
This  island  is  situated  a  little  to  the  west  of  that  of 
Seil,  belonging  to  the  same  parish,  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  a  narrow  channel  called  Easdale  Sound  ; 
it  is  washed  by  the  Atlantic  on  the  south,  and  the 
Sound  of  Mull  on  the  west  and  north-west,  and  is  less 
than  a  square  mile  in  extent.  The  village  is  built  on 
both  sides  of  the  sound,  and  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  per- 
sons employed  in  the  slate-quarries,  whose  tenements 
are  one  story  high,  with  good  slate  roofs,  and  of  neat 
and  comfortable  appearance.  Though  slate  of  the  same 
kind  is  obtained  in  the  islands  of  Seil  and  Luing,  Eas- 
dale is  the  chief  seat  of  the  operations  for  raising  the 
fine  blue  durable  material  for  which  it  has  been  so 
long  and  justly  celebrated  ;  the  whole  island  consists 
of  it,  and  there  is  one  quarry  120  feet  below  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The  quarries,  which  are  in  extensive  opera- 
tion, have  been  wrought  for  nearly  two  centuries  ;  and 
the  four  now  open  in  the  islands  employ  about  200 
men,  and  produce  from  four  to  five  millions  of  slates 
Vol.  I. — 353 


annually  :  much  of  the  labour  formerly  done  by  horses, 
carts,  &c,  is  now  effected  by  the  aid  of  steam-engines 
and  by  railroads.  The  steamers  running  between  Glas- 
gow and  the  northern  ports  pass  along  the  Sound  of 
Easdale,  and  a  post  communicates  daily  with  Oban. 
There  is  a  school  supported  by  the  Society  for  Propa- 
gating Christian  Knowledge. 

EASSIE  and  NEVAY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Forfar,  about  3  miles  (E.)  from  Meigle  ;  containing 
732  inhabitants.  These  two  districts,  formerly  separate 
parishes,  are  together  about  four  miles  in  length,  and 
three  in  average  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  5000 
acres,  of  which,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  proportion 
of  pasture  and  woodland,  the  whole  is  arable.  The  sur- 
face is  varied ;  in  Eassie  it  is  partly  level,  but  the  greater 
portion  is  included  in  the  Sidlaw  hills,  of  which  the 
northern  declivity  occupies  nearly  one-half  of  the  parish. 
The  river  Dean  is  the  northern  boundary  of  the  dis- 
trict of  Eassie,  along  which  it  winds  with  a  scarcely 
perceptible  current,  though,  from  the  great  depth  of  its 
channel,  and  the  numerous  and  sudden  changes  in  its 
course,  it  frequently  overflows  its  banks,  and  inundates  the 
adjacent  lands.  The  soil  in  the  lower  grounds  is  a  fine 
black  mould,  but  towards  the  hills  becomes  less  fertile, 
and  near  the  summits  affords  only  tolerable  pasturage ; 
in  Nevay  it  is  partly  marshy,  with  moss,  and  in  Eassie 
is  a  tract  of  strong  rich  clay,  well  adapted  for  grain. 
The  arable  lands  are  in  the  highest  state  of  cultivation, 
producing  oats  and  barley,  of  which,  from  the  great 
attention  paid  to  them,  considerable  quantities  are  sent 
to  various  parts  of  the  country  for  seed.  Much  care 
has  been  bestowed  on  the  improvement  of  live  stock ; 
the  cattle  are  principally  the  Angus  and  the  short- 
horned  ;  numerous  flocks  of  sheep,  chiefly  of  a  mixed 
breed  between  the  Highland  and  the  Leicestershire,  are 
fed  on  the  pastures,  and  in  autumn  many  are  fed  on 
turnips,  and  fattened  for  the  market.  The  farms  ave- 
rage about  200  acres  in  extent,  and  the  farm-buildings 
are  generally  substantially  built,  on  the  most  improved 
plan,  and  well  arranged ;  the  plantations,  which  are 
mostly  of  recent  growth,  consist  mainly  of  larch  and 
Scotch  fir,  and  are  in  a  thriving  state.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4019. 

There  are  several  small  scattered  hamlets,  but  no  regu- 
lar village  ;  the  population  is  chiefly  agricultural,  and  a 
small  number  are  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  coarse 
linen,  chiefly  for  domestic  use.  Freestone  of  good  qua- 
lity is  found  in  the  parish,  and  is  quarried  to  a  con- 
siderable extent.  The  river  Dean  abounds  with  trout, 
and  is  much  frequented  by  anglers.  The  high  road 
from  Aberdeen  to  Edinburgh  passes  through  the  parish; 
and  the  Newtyle  and  Glammis  railway,  joining  the 
Dundee  and  Cupar- Angus  line,  affords  facility  of  com- 
munication with  Dundee,  the  principal  market  of  this 
part  of  the  country,  and  conveyance  for  supplies  of  coal, 
lime,  and  manure.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Meigle  and 
synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£161,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per 
annum ;  patron,  Lord  Wharncliffe.  The  church  is  a 
handsome  structure,  erected  in  1833  on  a  site  con- 
venient for  both  districts.  The  parochial  school  is  well 
conducted ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a 
house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £18  per 
annum.     There  is  a  parochial  library  containing  a  good 

2  Z 


EAST 


EAST 


collection  of  works,  chiefly  on  religious  subjects.  The 
poor  are  partly  supported  by  the  proceeds  of  a  fund 
of  £120:  a  bequest  of  £100  by  Miss  Ogilvie,  of  West 
Hall,  for  such  as  are  not  on  the  parish  list,  has  been 
entirely  expended.  About  a  mile  from  the  old  church 
of  Eassie  is  a  large  circular  mound,  on  which  stands  the 
farm-house  of  Castle-Nairn ;  part  of  the  broad  moat 
that  surrounded  it  is  still  remaining.  It  is  supposed  to 
have  been  an  intrenchment  occupied  by  the  army  of 
Edward  of  England  during  his  invasion  of  the  country. 
There  is  also  a  large  stone  obelisk  in  the  parish,  curi- 
ously sculptured  with  hieroglyphic  characters. 

EAST  COALTOWN.— Se'e  Coaltown,  East.— And 
all  places  having  a  similar  distinguishing  prefix,  will  be 
found  under  the  proper  name. 

EASTBAKNS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dunbar, 
county  of  Haddington,  3  miles  (S.  E.byE.)  from  Dun- 
bar; containing  125  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  near 
the  coast  of  the  German  Sea,  in  the  eastern  extremity 
of  the  parish,  and  is  distant  from  Westbarns,  a  more 
populous  village,  about  five  miles.  There  was  a  Burgher 
meeting-house  here  till  the  year  1820,  when  the  con- 
gregation removed  to  the  town  of  Dunbar;  and  one 
of  the  parochial  schools  is  still  fixed  at  this  place. 

EASTHOUSES,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  New- 
battle,  county  of  Edinburgh,  1  mile  (E.)  from  New- 
battle  ;  containing  420  inhabitants.  This  is  a  consider- 
able colliery  village,  the  population  of  which  is  chiefly 
employed  in  the  neighbouring  mines  of  the  Marquess 
of  Lothian,  which  are  very  extensive.  The  parochial 
school  is  situated  in  the  village. 

EASTWOOD,  or  POLLOCK,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper 
ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  2-§  miles  (S.  W.)  from 
Glasgow ;  containing,  with  the  incorporated  town  of 
Pollockshaws,  the  village  of  Thornliebank,  and  part  of 
the  late  quoad  sacra  district  of  Levern,  7970  inhabitants. 
This  place  derives  the  former  of  its  names  from  the 
relative  situation  of  an  extensive  wood  which  was  a  part 
of  it,  but  which  has  long  been  converted  into  arable 
land ;  and  the  latter  name  from  the  circumstance  of 
the  chief  lands  being  designated  Pollock.  The  parish 
is  about  four  miles  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  and 
three  miles  in  breadth,  forming  an  irregular  area  of 
5000  acres  in  extent,  and  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the 
parish  of  Paisley,  of  which  a  considerable  portion  is 
circumscribed  by  the  lands  of  Eastwood.  The  surface 
is  pleasingly  undulated,  intersected  with  tracts  of  level 
ground,  and  rising  towards  the  south  into  a  range  of 
hills,  of  which  the  highest  has  an  elevation  of  300  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  scenery  is  diversified, 
and  in  many  parts  embellished  with  flourishing  plan- 
tations, and  watered  by  winding  streams,  which  give  to 
it  an  interesting  and  picturesque  appearance.  The  river 
White  Cart,  rising  in  the  moors  of  Eaglesham,  flows  for 
several  miles  through  the  parish  in  its  course  to  the 
Clyde,  receiving  at  Pollockshaws  the  waters  of  the 
Auldhouse  burn,  which  issues  from  a  lake  in  the  adjoin- 
ing parish  of  Mearns  ;  and  the  Brock  burn,  which  also 
rises  in  Mearns,  winds  through  Eastwood,  and  falls  into 
the  Levern,  which  skirts  the  western  extremity  of  the 
parish,  and  joins  the  Cart  near  Cruickston  Castle.  The 
soil  in  the  hilly  parts  towards  the  south  is  thin  and 
light,  but  on  the  banks  of  the  river  and  rivulets  ex- 
tremely rich  and  fertile  ;  about  one-half  of  the  lands  is 
arable  and  in  profitable  cultivation,  and  the  remainder, 
354 


with  the  exception  of  about  250  acres  of  natural  wood 
and  100  of  plantation,  is  good  pasture  land.  The  rota- 
tion system  of  husbandry  is  prevalent ;  the  crops  are, 
oats,  barley,  and  wheat,  with  potatoes  and  turnips ; 
some  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  cattle^which 
are  generally  of  the  Ayrshire  breed,  but  the  management 
of  live  stock  forms  only  a  secondary  object  with  the 
farmer,  and  consequently  Few  fine  specimens  are  fpro- 
duced.  Considerable  progress  has  been  made  in  reclaim- 
ing the  waste,  of  which  large  portions  have  been  brought 
into  a  state  of  cultivation,  and  great  improvements  have 
been  effected  in  draining  and  fencing  ;  the  farm-houses 
and  offices  are  substantial  and  commodious,  and  mostly 
roofed  with  slate.  The  plantations  are,  oak,  elm,  ash, 
sycamore,  beech,  larch,  and  Scotch,  spruce,  and  sil- 
ver firs.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£21,061. 

The  substrata  are  sandstone  and  limestone,  with  occa- 
sional belts  of  ironstone.  There  are  some  valuable  quar- 
ries of  stone  of  excellent  quality  for  building  and  for 
various  other  purposes ;  the  stone  of  one  of  the  quar- 
ries is  peculiarly  adapted  for  pavements,  hearths,  and 
staircases,  and,  as  it  may  be  cut  to  any  required  size,  is 
also  employed  for  cisterns.  Another  of  these  quarries 
produces  a  very  superior  kind  which  is  in  great  demand 
for  the  finer  parts  of  masonry,  and  is  much  admired  for 
the  uses  of  the  sculptor  and  the  statuary.  Limestone 
is  still  worked  at  Arden,  and  was  formerly  wrought  at 
Darnley  and  Cowgleu  ;  but  it  is  of  very  inferior  quality, 
unfit  for  burning  into  lime,  and  consequently  applied 
chiefly  to  road-making,  and  for  roughcasting  the  walls 
of  houses,  for  which  purpose  it  is  well  adapted  from  the 
hardness  it  acquires  from  exposure  to  the  air.  Coal 
abounds  in  the  parish,  and  is  wrought  at  Cowglen ; 
there  are  several  seams,  varying  in  thickness,  but  none 
exceed  three  feet.  Five  of  these  have  been  worked  with 
success ;  they  are  of  good  quality,  and  yield  an  ample 
supply  of  fuel ;  the  pits  vary  from  ten  to  forty  fathoms 
in  depth,  and  the  annual  produce  is  estimated  at  nearly 
£4000.  Pollock,  the  seat  of  Sir  John  Maxwell,  Bart., 
is  a  handsome  modern  mansion  pleasantly  situated. 
A  considerable  number  of  the  inhabitants  are  employed 
in  cotton-spinning,  weaving,  bleaching,  and  calico-print- 
ing, for  which  large  factories  have  been  established  in 
the  town  of  Pollockshaws,  the  village  of  Thornliebank, 
and  Auldhouse.  In  the  bleachfields  of  the  last,  more 
than  200  persons  are  employed  ;  the  particulars  of  the 
two  first  will  be  found  in  the  notices  of  those  places 
under  their  respective  heads.  The  parish  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Paisley  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr, 
and  in  the  gift  of  Sir  John  Maxwell ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £150,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued 
at  £35  per  annum.  The  old  church  was  taken  down, 
and  a  new  edifice  erected  in  1781  near  the  western 
extremity  of  Pollockshaws  ;  it  is  a  neat  building,  and 
in  good  repair,  but  affords  accommodation  only  to  760 
persons.  A  second  church  connected  with  the  Esta- 
blishment has  been  recently  erected  in  Pollockshaws ; 
and  there  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church,  the  United  Associate  Synod,  and  the  Synod 
of  Original  Seceders  :  the  Roman  Catholics,  of  whom- 
there  are  many  in  the  parish,  attend  the  chapel  at 
Glasgow.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  to 
about  100  scholars;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  £36  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.     There  are  no 


ECCL 


E  C  C  L 


monuments  of  antiquity  :  the  only  memorials  of  olden 
times  are  some  documents  in  the  possession  of  the 
Maxwell  family,  consisting  chiefly  of  a  royal  precept 
issued  in  the  reign  of  James  V.,  letters  from  the  Queen 
Regent,  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  previously  to  the  hattle 
of  Langside,  and  James  VI. ;  and  the  original  copy 
of  the  Solemn  League  and  Covenant,  with  the  various 
subscriptions,  beautifully  written.  Among  the  distin- 
guished literary  men  connected  with  Eastwood  have 
been,  Wodrow,  author  of  some  writings  on  the  anti- 
quities of  Scotland,  of  some  lives  of  the  most  learned 
men  who  have  flourished  in  the  country,  and  of  a  his- 
tory of  the  Church  ;  the  Rev.  Mr.  Crawford,  author  of  an 
unpublished  history  of  the  Church  from  the  first  intro- 
duction of  Christianity  into  Scotland  till  the  year  1680  ; 
and  Walter  Stewart,  of  Pardovan,  author  of  the  Collec- 
tions, who  died  here  while  on  a  visit  to  the  Maxwells, 
and  was  interred  in  the  aisle  of  the  church  appropriated 
as  a  place  of  sepulture  for  the  members  of  that  family, 
and  in  which  a  marble  monument  was  erected  to  his 
memory.  Wodrow  and  Mr.  Crawford  were  both  minis- 
ters of  the  parish. 

ECCLES,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Berwick, 
6  miles  (\V.  by  N.)  from  Coldstream  ;  containing,  with 
the  villages  of  Leitholm  and  Birgham,  1946  inha- 
bitants. The  name  of  this  parish  is  derived  from  the 
classical  word  signifying  a  church,  supposed  to  be  ap- 
plied on  account  of  the  number  of  churches  or  chapels 
at  one  time  situated  here.  It  is  remarkable  as  con- 
taining the  ancient  village  of  Birgham,  celebrated  for 
the  meeting,  in  11S8,  between  Hugh,  Bishop  of  Durham, 
and  William  the  Lion,  at  the  instance  of  Henry  II.  of 
England,  for  the  purpose  of  laying  a  tax  upon  the 
Scots  towards  the  support  of  the  war  in  the  Holy 
Land.  At  that  place,  also, was  convened,  in  1290,  an 
august  assembly,  for  the  settlement  of  the  marriage  of 
Prince  Edward,  son  of  Edward  I.,  with  Margaret  of 
Scotland,  a  union  afterwards  prevented  by  the  death 
of  the  young  princess,  in  one  of  the  Orkneys.  The  pa- 
rish was  anciently  the  seat  of  Bernardine  or  Cistercian 
nuns,  for  whom  a  convent  was  founded  by  Cospatrick, 
Earl  of  Dunbar;  but  the  building  has  entirely  disap- 
peared, with  the  exception  of  two  vaults,  now  converted 
into  cellars  for  the  mansion-house  of  one  of  the  landed 
proprietors.  There  is  much  obscurity  in  ancient  do- 
cuments respecting  the  date  of  this  religious  house, 
Hoveden  and  the  Melrose  Chronicle  representing  it  as 
founded  a  second  time  by  the  earl,  in  1154,  and  Cowpar 
fixing  the  event  in  1155,  while  the  Scoto-Chronicon 
annexed  to  Fordun  asserts  it  to  have  been  established 
by  his  countess.  In  1296,  during  the  interregnum  in 
Scotland,  Ada  de  Fraser,  the  prioress,  obtained  a  letter 
of  restitution,  in  consequence  of  the  fealty  sworn  to 
Edward  I.  by  the  Scots  ;  and  in  1333,  Edward  III., 
after  taking  Berwick,  also  received  the  homage  of  the 
convent.  It  was  visited  in  1523,  on  the  13th  of  Novem- 
ber, by  the  Duke  of  Albany  when  retreating  from  Wark 
Castle  ;  he  stayed  till  midnight,  and  then  marched  to 
Lauder.  In  1545,  the  abbey  and  town,  with  the  tower 
of  Mersington,  were  destroyed  by  the  Earl  of  Hertford 
on  his  memorable  inroad  into  Merse  and  Teviotdale, 
when  he  ravaged  and  burned  the  whole  country  without 
opposition.  In  1569,  Marieta  Hamilton,  then  prioress 
of  the  establishment,  granted  the  village  and  lauds  of 
Eccles,  by  charter,  to  Sir  Alexander  Hamilton,  of  In- 
355 


nerwick ;  and  the  charter  was  confirmed  by  Queen 
Mary  at  Edinburgh,  on  the  11th  of  May,  in  the  same 
year.  In  the  17th  century  the  village  was  erected  into 
a  burgh  of  barony  in  favour  of  George  Home,  Earl  of 
Dunbar. 

The  parish  is  nearly  seven  miles  long,  and  five  and 
a  half  broad,  and  contains  11,000  acres.  With  the 
exception  of  the  slight  elevations  of  Cotchet  Ridge, 
Hardacres,  Eccles,  Brae-Dunstan,  and  Bartlehill,  the 
surface  is  level  throughout ;  and  consists  of  arable 
land,  well  cultivated  and  fenced,  and  studded  with 
numerous  plantations.  The  climate,  however,  is  some- 
what damp,  and  to  a  slight  extent  unhealthy,  arising 
from  the  prevalence  of  a  rainy  atmosphere.  The  scenery 
is  much  enlivened  by  the  course  of  the  Tweed,  which 
runs  on  the  southern  boundary  of  the  parish,  and 
separates  it  from  Northumberland ;  its  banks  rise 
about  fifty  feet  above  the  water,  and  harbour  large 
numbers  of  foxes,  weasels,  and  rabbits.  The  soil  near 
the  river  is  in  general  light ;  in  the  middle  and  northern 
parts  of  the  parish  clay  and  loam  predominate,  and 
in  the  south-east  quarter  is  a  portion  of  moor.  Nearly 
the  whole  is  arable,  producing  excellent  crops  of  all 
kinds  of  grain,  and  turnips  and  potatoes  :  the  rotation 
here  followed  is  the  four  or  the  five  years'  shift,  which 
is  considered  well  suited  to  the  district.  Sheep  are 
kept  on  most  of  the  larger  farms,  and  consist  mainly 
of  the  Cheviot  and  Leicestershire  breeds,  the  former  of 
which,  on  account  of  their  being  more  hardy,  are  pre- 
ferred for  the  clayey  lands.  Rapid  advances  have  been 
made  in  agricultural  improvement,  and  the  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  now  amounts  to  as  large  a 
sum  as  £19,4-11.  The  prevailing  rock  is  the  red  sand- 
stone, which  exists  in  a  great  variety  of  forms  and  ad- 
mixtures. At  Birgham  Haugh,  magnesian  limestone, 
with  red  hornstone  and  crystals  of  calcareous  spar,  is 
found  ;  and  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  above,  are  considerable  quantities  of  clay- 
stone  porphyry.  Near  Kennetside  head,  the  large 
proportion  of  siliceous  material  gives  the  sandstone 
almost  the  appearance  of  a  quartz  rock ;  and  in  the 
marly  sandstone  on  the  banks  of  the  small  river  Leet 
are  thin  beds  of  gypsum.  Among  the  mansions  in  the 
parish  are  Purves  Hall,  Kames,  Antonshill,  Belchester, 
Stoneridge,  and  Eccles  House,  and  in  the  plantations 
of  the  last-mentioned  are  several  fine  old  trees,  chiefly 
elm  and  ash.  There  are  four  villages,  Eccles,  Leitholm, 
Birgham,  and  Hassington  ;  Leitholm  is  the  largest,  and 
has  a  bye-post  to  Coldstream.  The  London  and  Edin- 
burgh road,  by  Greenlaw,  traverses  the  parish  from 
south-east  to  north-west ;  and  that  by  Kelso,  and  the 
road  from  Kelso  to  Berwick,  also  cross  it. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  governed  by  the  pres- 
bytery of  Dunse  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ; 
patron,  the  Crown.  The  stipend  of  the  minister  is 
£246,  and  there  is  a  manse,  with  a  glebe  of  twenty  acres 
of  good  land.  The  first  church  was  dedicated  to  St. 
Cuthbert,  but  the  next,  built  about  the  year  1250,  was 
in  honour  of  St.  Andrew ;  the  present  church  was 
erected  in  1774,  at  an  expense  of  £1000.  It  is  after 
the  model  of  St.  Cuthbert's  chapel-of-ease  at  Edinburgh, 
and  is  an  elegant  building  seventy-eight  feet  long  and 
thirty-four  feet  broad,  and  ornamented  with  a  handsome 
spire ;  it  is  situated  about  a  mile  from  the  western 
boundary  of  the    parish,   and  contains    1000    sittings. 

2  Z  2 


E  C  CL 


E  CHT 


The  Relief  Congregation  have  a  place  of  worship,  and 
there  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  the  classics,  mathe- 
matics, and  all  the  usual  branches  of  education  are 
taught ;  the  salary  of  the  master  is  £34,  with  the  fees, 
and  a  house.  A  friendly  society  for  the  relief  of  the  sick 
and  superannuated  has  also  been  established.  The  chief 
relic  of  antiquity  is  a  monument  of  white  sandstone,  in 
the  form  of  a  cross,  without  any  inscription,  situated  at 
Crosshall,  about  a  mile  to  the  north  of  the  village  of 
Eccles.  The  pedestal  is  a  solid  block  of  stone,  two  and 
a  half  feet  high,  three  feet  square  on  its  upper  surface, 
and  raised  a  little  above  the  ground  ;  the  column  is  ten 
feet  high,  one  and  a  half  foot  broad  on  the  west  and 
east  sides,  and  one  foot  on  the  north  and  south,  at  the 
bottom.  On  its  north  face  is  sculptured  a  Calvary 
cross,  surmounted  by  a  shield  ;  at.  the  summit  of  the 
west  side  is  a  cross,  with  an  escutcheon  below  having 
chevrons  in  the  dexter  and  sinister  chief's  and  the  base, 
and  a  St.  John's  cross.  The  south  side  has  an  escut- 
cheon like  that  on  the  west,  and  beneath  an  ancient 
double-handed  sword  ;  the  east  has  a  cross,  and,  below, 
the  naked  figure  of  a  man  and  a  greyhound.  Many 
conjectures  have  been  made  respecting  its  origin  and 
design ;  the  most,  probable  is  that  it  was  erected  after 
the  second  crusade,  in  1114,  in  honour  of  the  father  of 
Sir  John  de  Soules,  lieutenant  or  viceroy  to  John  Baliol. 
On  Hardacres  hill,  about  a  mile  to  the  west  of  the 
monument,  are  traces  of  intrenehments.  Eccles  was 
the  birthplace  of  Henry  Home,  Lord  Karnes,  in  1696; 
and  it  was  here  that  he  entertained  Dr.  Franklin  and 
his  son  in  1/59,  and  composed  many  of  his  philosophical 
works. 

ECCLESCRAIG,  Kincardine.— See  St.  Cyrxjs. 

ECCLESFECHAN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Hod- 
dam,  county  of  Dumfries,  6  miles  (N.)  from  Annan  ; 
containing  768  inhabitants.  It  is  very  centrally  situated, 
in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  parish,  on  the  road 
between  Carlisle  and  Glasgow,  and  is  an  important 
and  thriving  market-village,  containing  many  respect- 
able shops  in  various  branches  of  trade.  A  large  part 
of  the  population  is  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of 
gingham,  which  is  the  chief  product  of  the  place.  It 
has  a  noted  cattle  fair  or  market,  to  which  its  prosperity 
has  been  principally  owing,  and  also  a  flourishing  pork- 
market  ;  the  former  is  held  monthly,  but  the  great 
sales  are  in  June  and  October,  and  the  latter  is  held 
during  the  winter.  In  the  vicinity  are  five  cross-roads, 
and  there  are  carriers  to  almost  every  part  within 
fifty  miles,  and  facilities  of  communication  in  nearly 
every  direction.  A  post-office  has  for  some  time  been 
established.  The  parochial  church  stands  about  a  mile 
south  of  the  village ;  and  the  members  of  the  Free 
Church  have  a  place  of  worship. 

ECCLESMACHAN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Linlithgow  j  containing,  with  the  villages  of  Three- 
Mile-town  and  Waterston,  303  inhabitants,  of  whom 
97  are  in  the  village  of  Ecclesmachan,  1  mile  (N.) 
from  Uphall.  This  place  derives  its  name  from  the 
dedication  of  its  ancient  church  to  St.  Machan,  who 
flourished  in  the  ninth  century.  The  parish,  which  is 
separated  into  two  detached  portions  by  the  interven- 
tion of  a  part  of  the  parish  of  Linlithgow,  comprises  an 
area  of  2458  acres  ;  about  2300  are  arable  and  pasture, 
130  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  roads 
and  waste.  The  surface  rises  into  two  ridges,  of  which 
356 


that  in  the  western  portion  of  the  parish  attains  an 
elevation  of  600  feet,  and  is  intersected  by  several  shal- 
low ravines ;  the  eastern  ridge,  of  less  height,  is  pre- 
cipitously steep,  rising  on  the  south  into  an  abrupt 
eminence  called  Tar  or  Tor  Hill.  The  lower  grounds 
are  watered  by  several  small  streams  that  flow  into  the 
river  Almond  ;  and  the  prevailing  scenery  is  softened 
by  the  thriving  plantations  that  have  been  formed  on 
the  lands  of  Blackcraig.  The  soil  is  generally  fertile  ; 
the  lands,  which  are  divided  into  farms  of  moderate 
extent,  are  under  good  cultivation,  and  the  best  system 
of  husbandry  has  been  adopted.  The  crops  are,  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  beans,  and  turnips  ;  the  grounds  are  well 
inclosed  with  hedges  of  thorn  and  ditches,  and  draining 
has  been  practised  to  some  extent,  but  there  is  still 
great  room  for  improvement.  The  rearing  of  live  stock 
is  confined  chiefly  to  the  Ayrshire  breed  of  cattle,  with 
a  cross  of  the  short-horned ;  oxen  of  the  Angus  or 
Highland  breed,  and  black-faced  sheep,  are  fattened 
on  the  pastures.  Coal  is  plentiful,  and  was  formerly 
wrought  in  several  parts  ;  sandstone  is  found  on  most 
of  the  lands;  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  rocks,  which 
are  principally  of  trap,  are  found  large  beds  of  indurated 
clay,  interspersed  occasionally  with  seams  of  ironstone. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2718. 

The  village  consists  of  a  few  houses  near  the  church, 
and  facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  roads  kept 
in  excellent  repair  by  statute  labour,  and  by  the  road 
from  Edinburgh  to  Falkirk,  and  the  Glasgow  middle 
road,  of  which  the  former  passes  through  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  parish,  and  the  latter  close  by  its 
southern  border.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Linlithgow 
and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale ;  patron,  the 
Earl  of  Hopetoun.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £256.  12., 
with  a  mause,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum. 
The  church,  which  was  nearly  rebuilt  in  the  beginning 
of  the  last  century,  and  thoroughly  repaired  in  1S22,  is 
a  plain  structure  containing  153  sittings.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  attended  by  about  fifty  children  :  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden, 
and  the  fees  average  about  £20  per  annum.  A  school 
was  erected  on  the  border  of  the  parish  by  the  late 
Robert  Warden,  Esq. ;  the  master  is  solely  dependent 
on  the  fees,  having  only  the  house  rent  free,  which  in 
summer  is  used  as  a  preaching-station  on  the  Sabbath 
evenings.  On  the  Tar  hill  is  a  spring  called  the 
Bullion  Well,  the  water  of  which  is  slightly  impregnated 
with  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  William  Hamilton,  a  poet 
of  eminence  in  the  early  part  of  the  18th  century,  was 
either  born,  or  resided  in  the  parish. 

ECHT,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kincardine 
O'Neil,  county  of  Aberdeen,  12  miles  (W.)  from 
Aberdeen;  containing  107S  inhabitants.  This  parish  is 
nearly  a  square  in  figure,  each  side  measuring  about 
four  and  a  half  miles,  and  comprises  between  15,000 
and  16,000  acres,  of  which  7000  are  in  tillage,  2000  in 
plantations,  and  the  remainder  uncultivated.  It  con- 
sists chiefly  of  a  valley  lying  between  two  hills  of  un- 
equal height,  of  which  the  more  elevated,  called  the  Hill 
of  Fare,  is  situated  about  one  mile  south-west  from  the 
church,  though  but  partly  in  the  parish.  The  base  of 
this  hill  is  nearly  eighteen  miles  in  circumference,  and 
its  height  1794  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea;  it  has 
some  thriving  plantations  of  fir,  abundance  of  the  usual 


ECHT 


ECKF 


kinds  of  game,  and  several  chalybeate  springs,  said  to 
be  beneficial  in  scorbutic  and  nephritic  complaints.  On 
the  outskirts  of  the  parish  are  other  rising  grounds, 
cultivated  to  the  summit. ;  and  in  the  north-western 
portion  is  a  hill  of  conical  form,  called  the  Barmekin, 
about  two -thirds  of  the  height  of  the  Hill  of  Fare,  entirely 
shrouded  in  wood,  and  contributing,  by  its  sylvan  beau- 
ties, to  enhance  the  effect  of  the  varied  and  pleasing 
scenery  of  the  locality.  The  lower  grounds  are  mossy  ; 
the  soil  in  some  places  is  light  and  sandy,  but  that  of 
the  best  lands  is  in  general  a  light  loam,  on  a  clayey 
subsoil;  the  climate  is  mild,  and  the  crops,  comprising 
bear,  potatoes,  hay,  turnips,  and  oats,  are  early  and  of 
good  quality.  The  system  of  farming  has  been  greatly 
improved  within  the  present  century ;  some  of  the 
estates  exhibit  the  skill  and  perseverance  of  the  most 
successful  husbandry  ;  lime  manure  is  extensively  used, 
and  bone-dust  has  recently  been  applied  with  much 
advantage.  Among  the  large  tracts  of  waste  land  which 
have  been  reclaimed,  that  on  the  estate  of  Echt,  amount- 
ing to  1S60  acres,  is  the  chief.  Inclosures  and  drains 
have  been  formed  on  all  the  principal  farms  ;  there  are 
many  substantial  and  convenient  houses  and  offices,  and 
above  forty  mills  have  been  erected  for  threshing  grain. 
The  few  sheep  kept  are  the  Cheviot  and  black-faced, 
and  the  cattle  are  mostly  the  Aberdeenshire.  Granite  is 
occasionally  quarried.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £5690. 

Between  1500  and  2000  acres  have  been  planted  in 
the  last  half  century  on  the  estate  of  Echt,  and  the  pro- 
prietor has  transplanted  about  150  large  trees  to  orna- 
ment the  beautiful  grounds  of  his  elegant  and  commo- 
dious mansion:  the  house  was  built  in  the  year  1S20, 
and  stands  in  a  park  of  eighty  acres,  attached  to  which 
is  a  very  extensive  and  productive  rrarden.  A  branch 
post  has  been  established  :  the  parish  is  intersected  by 
the  high  road  from  Aberdeen  to  Tarland,  and  a  road 
from  the  former  place  to  Alford  runs  along  a  small  part 
of  the  northern  extremity  of  Echt ;  a  third  road,  to 
Kincardine  O'Neil,  strikes  off  from  the  Tarland  road  at 
the  eastern  boundary,  and  traverses  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  the  parish  in  a  south-western  direction.  Several 
fairs  are  held  annually,  chiefly  for  sheep,  cattle,  horses, 
and  corn.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Kincardine 
O'Neil  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage  of 
the  Earl  of  Fife ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £183,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  of  about  four  and  a  half  acres,  valued 
at  £10  per  annum.  The  church,  built  in  1S04,  accom- 
modates 400  persons  ;  it  is  a  neat  structure,  comfort- 
ably fitted  up,  and,  being  centrally  situated,  is  conve- 
nient for  the  bulk  of  the  population.  The  parochial 
school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches  ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £29,  with  a  house,  and  £20  fees, 
and  also  participates  in  the  benefit  of  the  Dick  bequest. 
The  remains  of  a  Danish  camp  are  still  visible  on  the 
hill  of  Barmekin,  comprehending  five  intrenchments  ; 
the  inner  inclosure,  which  is  almost  circular,  measures 
300  feet  in  diameter,  and  covers  about  one  acre  of 
ground.  In  the  vicinity  are  several  cairns  and  tumuli, 
and  in  another  part  of  the  parish  is  a  Pictish  work  in 
the  form  of  a  horse-shoe.  On  the  28th  of  October, 
1562,  the  district  was  the  scene  of  the  battle  of 
Corrichie,  fought  between  the  forces  of  the  Earl  of 
Huntly  and  those  of  the  Earl  of  Murray ;  the  former 
were  defeated,  and  their  commander  slain,  and  his  son, 
357 


Sir  John   Gordon,  soon  afterwards  beheaded  at  Aber- 
deen. 

ECKFORD,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kelso, 
county  of  Roxburgh  ;  containing,  with  the  villages  of 
Caverton  and  Cessford,  1069  inhabitants,  of  whom  98 
are  in  the  village  of  Eckford,  5  miles  (S.  by  W.)  from 
Kelso,  and  48  in  that  of  Eckfordmoss,  adjoining.  This 
place  appears  to  have  derived  its  name  from  a  ford 
across  the  river  Teviot  near  the  village,  and  from  the 
number  of  oak-trees  with  which  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood abounded.  On  account  of  its  situation  only 
a  few  miles  from  the  border,  it  was  frequently  the  scene 
of  violence  and  devastation,  and  within  the  limits  of 
the  parish  were  several  strongholds  for  defence  against 
the  incursions  of  the  English,  and  as  places  of  security 
for  cattle  and  other  property.  The  principal  of  these 
were,  Ormiston,  Eckford,  and  Moss  Towers,  of  which  the 
last,  was  the  most  important,  both  for  its  strength  and 
for  its  position  in  a  marsh  near  the  village,  and  also 
from  its  being  the  residence  of  Hepburn,  Earl  of  Both- 
well.  This  castle  was  assaulted  in  1523  by  a  party  of 
English  led  by  Thomas,  Lord  Dacre,  who,  on  the  same 
day,  demolished  Ormiston  Tower  and  numerous  other 
places  in  the  vicinity;  and  in  1544  it  was  burnt,  to- 
gether with  the  tower  and  church  of  Eckford,  by  a  body 
of  the  English  under  Sir  Ralph  Eure,  who  put  to  death 
nearly  fifty  of  the  inhabitants.  In  1553,  the  village  of 
Eckford,  which  had  been  a  town  of  no  little  importance, 
was  burnt  by  the  Marquess  of  Dorset.  The  stronghold 
of  Moss  Tower  appears  to  have  been  rebuilt  after  its 
previous  destruction,  but  was  again  destroyed  by  the 
Earl  of  Sussex,  who,  in  1570,  laid  waste  a  large  portion 
of  the  surrounding  district.  But  the  most  famous  for- 
tress in  the  parish  was  Cessford  Castle,  which  was 
more  than  a  mere  stronghold,  and  of  which  the  remains 
are  noticed  in  the  ensuing  page. 

The  parish,  which  is  of  triangular  form,  is  about  six 
miles  in  extreme  length,  and  four  and  a  half  in  extreme 
breadth,  and  comprises  9695  acres,  of  which  772S  are 
arable,  S13  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remain- 
der rough  pasture,  common,  and  waste.  The  surface 
is  generally  undulated,  rising  towards  the  south  into 
moderate  elevations,  of  which  the  principal  are  Wooden 
hill  and  Caverton  hill,  commanding  extensive  and  pleas- 
ingly-varied prospects,  embracing  on  the  west  the  fertile 
vale  of  Teviot,  with  the  beautiful  scenery  along  the 
banks  of  that  river;  and  the  vale  of  the  river  Kale, 
with  its  picturesque  ranges  of  hills.  The  Teviot  has  its 
source  among  the  hills  that  separate  the  counties  of 
Roxburgh  and  Dumfries,  and,  after  flowing  through  the 
parish,  falls  into  the  Tweed  near  Kelso.  The  Kale, 
which  rises  in  the  Cheviot  hills,  in  the  county  of  North- 
umberland, after  an  impetuous  course  of  about  eighteen 
miles,  falls  into  the  Teviot  to  the  north  of  the  church  ; 
its  banks  in  various  parts  are  richly  wooded.  There  is 
a  lake  situated  near  the  village,  at  the  base  of  Wooden 
hill;  it  occupies  the  bed  of  an  extensive  marl-pit  which 
was  formerly  wrought,  and  is  in  some  places  thirty  feet 
in  depth.  In  the  slimy  bottom  of  this  lake,  medicinal 
leeches  of  excellent  quality  used  once  to  be  found  in 
considerable  numbers,  though  no  traces  of  such  are  now 
to  be  met  with,  probably  from  the  quantity  of  water. 
The  scenery  throughout  Eckford  is  of  pleasing  cha- 
racter, and  is  enriched  with  the  flourishing  plantations 
that  prevail  in  most  parts  of  the  parish.     The  soil  is 


E  C  K  F 


ED  D  E 


various ;  in  the  lower  grounds,  and  more  especially  on 
the  banks  of  the  Teviot,  a  light  friable  loam ;  on  the 
higher  grounds,  partaking  more  of  the  nature  of  clay  ■ 
but  it  is  generally  fertile,  and  by  good  management  ren- 
dered highly  productive.  The  crops  are,  oats,  barley, 
wheat,  potatoes,  turnips,  peas,  and  beans.  The  system  of 
agriculture  is  in  a  very  improved  state,  and  the  five-shift 
rotation  of  husbandry  usually  practised  ;  the  lands  are 
well  drained,  and  inclosed  chiefly  with  hedges  of  thorn. 
Much  waste  has  been  reclaimed  and  brought  into  pro- 
fitable cultivation.  Attention  is  paid  to  the  improve- 
ment of  live  stock  ;  the  sheep  are  mostly  of  the  Leices- 
tershire breed,  and  the  cattle  pastured  in  the  parish  of 
the  short-horned  breed.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
Eckford  is  £8837. 

The  woods  comprise  all  the  varieties  of  forest  trees, 
and  flourish  greatly ;  the  plantations  are  chiefly  of 
Scotch,  spruce,  and  silver  firs,  of  which  there  is  a  tract 
of  nearly  360  acres  at  Caverton-Edge,  where  formerly 
the  Kelso  races  were  held,  and  which,  from  one  of  the 
titles  of  its  proprietor,  the  Duke  of  Roxburghe,  is  called 
Beaumont  Forest.  There  are  many  specimens  of  an- 
cient timber  of  stately  growth  in  various  parts  of  the 
parish.  The  principal  substrata  are  whinstone  and 
sandstone,  of  which  also  the  hills  are  composed ;  they 
are  both  occasionally  quarried  for  building  and  other 
purposes.  A  small  seam  of  coal  was  discovered  many 
years  since  at  Caverton-Edge,  but  it  was  not  wrought 
with  sufficient  spirit  to  render  it  productive  of  any 
benefit,  and  the  works  were  soon  after  abandoned.  The 
manufacture  of  agricultural  implements  is  carried  on  at 
Kalemouth  ;  and  there  are  mills  for  grinding  corn  at 
Ormiston,  Eckford,  and  Caverton.  Marlefield  House, 
the  property  of  the  Marquess  of  Tweeddale,  is  a  spa- 
cious mansion  pleasantly  situated  in  a  demesne  richly 
planted,  and  tastefully  laid  out ;  in  front  of  the  house 
is  an  extensive  lawn,  and  the  grounds  are  in  some  parts 
embellished  with  avenues  of  lime-trees.  The  ancient 
mansion-house  of  Haughhead  is  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  river  Kale,  near  Eckford  mill,  and  is  still  in  a 
tolerable  state  of  repair.  At  a  short  distance  from  it 
is  an  artificial  mound  of  earth  and  stones  intermixed, 
surrounded  with  clumps  of  old  fir-trees ;  on  the  summit 
is  a  stone  commemorating  the  result  of  a  dispute  be- 
tween Hall,  the  original  proprietor  of  Haughhead,  and  his 
neighbour,  Ker,  of  Cessford,  whom  he  defeated  in  an 
attempt  to  take  possession  of  his  estate.  The  villages 
have  facility  of  intercourse  with  Kelso  and  other  towns 
in  the  district  by  good  roads,  and  by  two  bridges  over 
the  Teviot  and  Kale,  both  of  one  arch,  and  neatly  built 
of  stone.  An  elegant  chain-bridge,  also,  was  thrown 
across  the  Teviot,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Kale,  by 
the  late  William  Mein,  Esq.,  of  Ormiston  ;  it  is  180  feet 
in  length,  and  sixteen  feet  in  breadth,  and  forms  an 
interesting  feature  in  the  landscape.  The  turnpike-road 
from  Hawick  to  Kelso  passes  through  the  parish,  in  its 
western  portion. 

Eckford  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Jedburgh  and  synod 
of  Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and  patronage  of  the  Crown  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £219,  with  a  manse,  and  glebe 
valued  at  £12.  5.  per  annum.  The  church,  which  was 
dependant  on  the  abbey  of  Jedburgh,  is  a  substantial 
edifice  finely  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river 
Teviot,  and  is  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  300  persons. 
There  are  two  parochial  schools,  affording  together  in- 
35S 


struction  to  about  120  scholars.  Of  that  in  the  village 
of  Eckford  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  and  fees  averaging  about  £21  per  annum  ; 
the  master  of  the  school  at  Caverton  mill  has  a  salary 
of  £17,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  fees  averaging 
£17,  with  the  interest  of  a  bequest  of  £40.  There  is 
also  a  school  at  Cessford,  attended  by  about  forty  scho- 
lars ;  the  master  has  a  schoolroom  rent  free,  in  addition 
to  the  fees,  which  amount  to  £20.  Some  remains  exist 
of  Cessford  Castle,  the  ancient  manorial  residence  of  Sir 
Robert  Ker,  ancestor  of  the  Duke  of  Roxburghe's  family, 
and  warden  of  the  Scottish  middle  marches.  This  for- 
tress was  of  considerable  importance,  and  in  1523  the 
Earl  of  Surrey  in  vain  attempted  to  reduce  it,  but  after 
a  protracted  siege  obtained  possession  by  capitulation  ; 
the  remains  show  it  to  have  been  of  great  strength. 
The  chief  building  is  a  quadrangular  pile  sixty-seven 
feet  long,  sixty  feet  broad,  and  sixty-five  feet  high,  with 
walls  nearly  thirteen  feet  in  thickness ;  it  was  once  sur- 
rounded by  an  inner  and  outer  wall,  part  of  the  latter 
of  which  is  still  remaining,  and  the  interval  between 
them  is  supposed  to  have  been  appropriated  to  the  keep- 
ing of  cattle  and  other  valuable  property  placed  there 
for  security  in  times  of  danger.  Some  traces  of  the 
moat  by  which  the  whole  was  inclosed  may  also  be  per- 
ceived. A  little  to  the  north  of  the  castle,  and  near 
Cessford  burn,  is  a  cavern  of  considerable  size,  called 
Hobbie  Ker's  Cave ;  and  there  are  several  other  caverns 
of  artificial  construction  in  various  parts  of  the  parish. 
Stone  coffins  have  been  frequently  met  with ;  and  in 
one,  discovered  on  the  farm  of  Eckford-Eastmains  in 
1831,  were  found  a  few  human  bones,  and  a  small 
Roman  jar  filled  with  black  dust.  To  the  west  of 
Caverton  hill  are  the  remains  of  a  tumulus  called  the 
Black  dyke,  which  has  not  yet  been  fully  explored.  On 
the  farm  of  Moss  Tower,  a  coin  or  medal  of  the  Empress 
Faustina  has  been  found  in  the  peat-moss,  of  which  the 
inscription  was  quite  legible.  At  Caverton  was  an 
ancient  chapel  founded  by  Walter  Ker,  of  Cessford  ;  but 
there  are  no  vestiges,  though  near  it  is  a  well,  for  many 
years  called  Priest's  well, but  now  almost  undistinguished. 
Marlefield  House  is  said  to  have  been  the  birthplace  of 
Sir  William  Bennet,  the  intimate  friend  of  Ramsay, 
whose  pastoral  of  the  Gentle  Shepherd  was  first  repre- 
sented at  a  neighbouring  seat,  and  of  which  the  scenery 
is  thought  to  have  been  descriptive  of  Marlefield. 
The  poet  Thomson  also  spent  much  of  his  time  with  Sir 
William  Bennet  at  this  place,  and  he  is  supposed  to 
have  composed  the  "Winter"  of  his  Seasons  within  four 
miles  of  Marlefield,  on  a  hill  in  the  adjoining  parish  of 
Morebattle,  to  which  he  frequently  resorted.  Bennet 
lived  during  the  greater  period  of  his  life  in  the  parish  ; 
and  in  an  aisle  adjoining  the  church,  which  was  the 
place  of  sepulture  of  the  family,  his  remains  were  in- 
terred. 

EDAY,  in  the  county  of  Orkney. — See  Stronsay 
and  Eday. 

EDDERTON,  a  parish,  in  the  Mainland  district, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty,  5  miles  (S.  W.)  from 
Tain,  containing  975  inhabitants.  This  place,  which 
derives  its  name  from  its  situation  among  hills  that 
surround  it  on  all  sides  except  the  north,  was  noted 
in  the  reign  of  William  the  Lion  for  its  castle  near 
the  shore  of  the  Frith  of  Dornoch,  erected  by  that 
monarch  to  command  the  ferry  between  the  counties  of 


E  DD  E 


E  D  D  L 


Ross  and  Sutherland.  In  1227,  Ferquhard,  or  Farquhar, 
Earl  of  Ross,  having  accompanied  Alexander  II.  into 
England,  challenged  a  renowned  French  champion  whom 
he  met  at  the  court  of  Henry  III.  to  single  combat,  and 
in  gratitude  for  his  victory  founded  here,  on  his  return, 
the  abbey  of  Fearns,  which  he  amply  endowed  for 
Augustine  monks.  From  the  frequent  annoyances  to 
which  the  brethren  were  exposed  in  this  situation,  how- 
ever, the  founder,  at  the  request  of  the  abbot,  removed 
the  establishment,  about  the  year  1246,  to  a  more  se- 
cluded spot  about  twelve  miles  distant,  where  it  con- 
tinued to  flourish  till  the  Reformation,  when  one-half  of 
its  revenues  was  granted  to  the  bishopric  of  Ross,  and 
the  remainder  to  the  Ross  family  of  Balnagown.  The 
parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Dornoch 
Frith  and  the  Frith  of  Tain,  is  about  ten  miles  in  length, 
and  nearly  eight  miles  in  extreme  breadth,  comprising 
an  area  of  41,760  acres,  of  which  1630  are  arable,  710 
woodlands  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  meadow, 
pasture,  and  moor.  The  surface  is  partly  level,  con- 
sisting of  three  successive  ledges  of  table-land,  and  in 
other  portions  diversified  with  numerous  hills,  of  which 
the  most  conspicuous  are,  Cambuscurry  to  the  east, 
having  an  elevation  of  600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  the  hill  of  Struie  to  the  west,  rising  to  the  height  of 
1000  feet,  both  which  are  wholly  within  the  parish. 
Cnoc-an-t-Sabhal,  on  the  southern  boundary,  is  about 
1000  feet  in  height;  and  Muidhe-Bhlarie,  on  the  south- 
west border,  has  an  elevation  of  1300  feet  above  the  sea. 
There  are  four  small  rivers,  which  have  their  source  in 
the  parish,  the  Edderton  burn,  the  Daan,  the  Easter 
Fearn,  and  the  Grugaig  :  during  the  dry  season  they  are 
very  inconsiderable  streams,  but  after  rains  they  become 
swollen  and  impetuous  in  their  course,  and  have  some- 
times been  known  to  sweep  away  the  bridges  built  over 
them. 

The  soil  in  the  higher  lands  near  the  sea  is  gravelly, 
in  the  lower  a  deep  alluvial  loam  alternated  with  sand, 
and  in  other  places  a  mixture  of  clay,  gravel,  and  moss ; 
the  arable  lands  are  in  good  cultivation,  and  the  system 
of  husbandry  has  been  improved  under  the  encourage- 
ment given  to  his  tenants  by  the  principal  landholder, 
Sir  Charles  Ross.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £1794.  The  plantations,  some  of  which  are  of 
early  date,  are,  oak,  birch,  and  Scotch  fir,  of  which  last 
there  are  about  100  acres  on  the  lands  of  Balnagown  in 
a  very  nourishing  condition,  and  chiefly  of  ancient 
growth.  In  the  deeper  mosses  are  found  the  trunks  and 
roots  of  fir,  oak,  hazel,  and  birch,  some  of  which  are  of 
great  dimensions.  The  substrata  are  principally  old  red 
sandstone,  conglomerate,  of  which  the  rocks  are  mainly 
composed,  and  limestone  ;  and  in  the  hill  of  Struie  are 
found  gneiss,  quartz,  granite,  and  whinstone.  The  chief 
residences  are,  Ardmore  House,  beautifully  situated ; 
Balblair ;  and  Upper  Edderton.  There  is  no  village  in 
the  parish  :  at  Ardmore,  on  the  Frith  of  Tain,  is  a  good 
harbour  accessible  to  vessels  of  100  tons,  and  during  the 
summer  several  arrive  with  supplies  of  coal,  lime,  and 
other  merchandise.  At  Balblair  is  a  distillery,  com- 
menced about  forty-five  years  since;  it  consumes  120 
bushels  of  malt  weekly,  producing  240  gallons  of 
whisky,  in  very  high  repute.  Facility  of  communication 
with  Tain,  from  the  markets  of  which  the  inhabitants 
are  supplied  with  provisions,  is  afforded  by  the  turnpike- 
road  to  Bonar-Bridge. 
359 


The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  Edderton  parish  are 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Tain  and 
synod  of  Ross.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £203.  14.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £16  per  annum  ;  pa- 
troness, the  Hon.  Mrs.  Hay  Mackenzie,  of  Cromarty. 
The  former  church,  erected  in  1743,  and  efficiently  re- 
paired in  1794,  a  neat  plain  structure,  containing  350 
sittings,  being  inconveniently  situated,  a  new  church 
was  built  in  1841  in  a  more  centrical  part  of  the 
parish.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church  use  the  old 
edifice.  The  parochial  school  is  not  well  attended  ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden, 
and  the  fees  average  about  £5  per  annum.  A  female 
school,  supported  by  the  Society  for  Propagating  Chris- 
tian Knowledge,  was  established  in  1S37,  and  a  Gaelic 
school  in  1840  by  the  Gaelic  Society  of  Edinburgh. 
Behind  the  parochial  school-house  is  an  obelisk  of  rough 
whinstone,  ten  feet  in  height,  on  which  is  sculptured  the 
figure  of  a  fish,  probably  a  salmon,  with  two  concentric 
circles  below  it ;  and  surrounding  the  pillar,  at  a  distance 
of  three  yards  from  its  base,  is  an  intrenchnient  about 
two  feet  in  height,  inclosing  an  area  within  which  a  fight 
took  place  between  some  of  the  inhabitants  and  a  party  of 
Norwegian  pirates,  when  Carius,  the  leader  of  the  latter, 
was  killed.  The  name  of  the  place  is  from  that  event 
called  Carry-Blair.  In  the  churchyard  is  also  a  sculp- 
tured stone,  on  which  is  a  warrior  on  horseback,  with  a 
large  cross  above,  and  on  the  other  side  various  concentric 
circles  and  hieroglyphics.  A  complete  chain  of  circular 
forts  formerly  surrounded  the  parish,  but  few  at  present 
are  in  any  tolerable  state  of  preservation  :  one  of  them, 
called  Dune  Alliscaig,  about  fourteen  feet  in  height,  and 
having  a  spiral  staircase  within  the  walls,  was  in  the 
year  1818  demolished  for  the  sake  of  the  materials  which 
it  afforded. 

EDDLESTONE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Peebles  ; 
containing  742  inhabitants,  of  whom  139  are  in  the  vil- 
lage, 4  miles  (N.)  from  Peebles.  This  parish,  undistin- 
guished b}r  any  events  of  historical  importance,  is  about 
ten  miles  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  and  seven  miles 
in  breadth,  and  comprises  21,250  acres,  of  which  4370 
are  arable,  1050  woodland  and  plantations,  and  15,830 
permanent  pasture,  and  meadow.  The  surface  is  diver- 
sified by  hills  covered  with  verdure  to  their  summits  ; 
the  highest,  called  Dundroieh,  or  Druid's  hill,  has  an 
elevation  of  2100  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
commands  an  extensive  and  finely- varied  prospect  em- 
bracing the  Cheviot  hills,  part  of  the  pleasing  dales  of 
Teviot,  Annan,  and  Clyde,  with  portions  of  the  counties 
of  Perth  and  Fife,  the  river  Forth,  and  the  city  of  Edin- 
burgh. The  chief  river  is  the  South  Esk,  which  issues 
from  a  lake  of  about  two  miles  in  circumference,  at  the 
base  of  Dundroieh,  and  flows  into  the  sea  at  Musselburgh ; 
the  lake  abounds  with  pike,  eels,  and  perch,  and  forms 
an  interesting  feature  in  the  scenery,  which  is  also  en- 
riched with  extensive  plantations  of  modern  growth. 
The  soil  is  various,  and  on  some  of  the  farms  might  be 
rendered  much  more  fertile  than  it  is,  through  the  adop- 
tion of  a  more  extensive  system  of  draining  the  lands. 
The  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  peas,  potatoes,  and 
turnips  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  improved 
state.  The  buildings  are  substantial  and  commodious ; 
the  lands  are  generally  well  inclosed,  and  the  fences 
mostly  kept  in  good  repair.  About  5500  sheep  are 
annually  reared  on  the  hills,  of  which  nearly  one-half  are 


E  D  D  R 


ED  D  R 


of  the  Cheviot,  and  the  rest  of  the  black-faced  breed  ;  on 
the  dairy-farms  about  280  milch-cows  are  pastured, 
chiefly  the  Ayrshire  and  Teeswater,  and  500  head  of 
young  cattle  are  annually  reared.  The  woods  and  plan- 
tations are  well  managed,  and  usually  in  a  thriving  con- 
dition. The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish,  as  re- 
turned for  the  Income  tax,  is  £6694. 

The  village  is  pleasantly  situated,  neatly  built,  and 
well  inhabited  ;  a  post-office  has  been  established,  and 
has  a  daily  delivery  from  Edinburgh  and  Peebles,  with 
which,  and  other  places,  there  is  facility  of  communica- 
tion by  roads  kept  in  excellent  order.  A  fair  used  to 
be  held  in  the  village  on  the  25th  of  September ;  it  was 
a  considerable  mart  for  cattle,  and  numerously  attended, 
but  has  recently  been  wholly  discontinued.  The  pa- 
rish is  in  the  presbytery  of  Peebles  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale,  and  patronage  of  Lord  Eli- 
bank  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £249,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £24  per  annum.  The  church, 
rebuilt  in  1S29,  is  a  neat  and  substantial  edifice  adapted 
for  a  congregation  of  420  persons.  The  parochial  school 
affords  education  to  about  a  hundred  and  twenty  children; 
the  master's  salary  is  £34,  with  £42  fees,  and  a  good 
house ;  he  has  also  the  privilege  of  taking  board- 
ers. There  are  remains  of  three  circular  camps,  evi- 
dently Danish  :  one  of  these,  on  the  lands  of  Norshield, 
has  been  preserved  nearly  in  its  original  state  of  perfec- 
tion, and  surrounded  with  a  plantation  ;  the  others  are 
almost  obliterated.  On  the  lauds  of  Ringside,  a  vessel 
has  been  dug  up  containing  a  large  number  of  gold  and 
silver  coins,  the  former  in  good  preservation,  but  the 
latter  much  defaced;  on  some  was  legible  the  inscrip- 
tion Jacobus  S.  Scotorum  Rex.  Near  the  northern  extre- 
mity of  this  farm  was  a  tumulus,  inclosed  with  three 
circular  walls,  and  which  was  opened  by  the  tenant,  and 
found  to  contain  a  rudely-formed  stone  coffin,  in  which 
were  human  bones  in  a  partly  calcined  state,  and  close 
to  it  a  variety  of  brazen  weapons,  in  form  resembling 
axes ;  two  of  them  were  sent  to  the  museum  of  the 
Antiquarian  Society  of  Edinburgh.  This  farm  was  a 
hunting-seat  belonging  to  James  VI.  The  Rev.  Patrick 
Robertson,  the  present  incumbent,  is  the  great-grand- 
son of  the  Rev.  James  Robertson,  who  was  ordained  to 
the  parish  in  1697,  and,  after  a  ministration  of  fifty 
years,  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Alexander,  who  in 
1*72  was  followed  by  his  son  Dr.  Patrick  Robertson, 
who  held  the  living  also  for  fifty  years,  and  died  in 
1822. 

EDDRACHILLIS,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Sutherland,  15  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Assynt;  in- 
cluding the  islands  of  Handa  and  Scourie,  and  the  late 
quoad  sacra  district  of  Keanlochbervie,  and  containing 
1699  inhabitants.  The  Celtic  name  of  this  place,  Eadar- 
da-chaolas,  signifies  "  between  two  kyles  or  arms  of  the 
sea,"  and  is  descriptive  of  the  situation  of  the  main  part 
of  the  parish  between  the  kyle  of  Scow,  which  sepa- 
rates Eddrachillis  from  Assynt  on  the  south,  and  the 
kyle  of  Laxford.  The  parish  was  anciently  part  of  the 
barony  of  Skelbo,  and  was  granted  by  Hugo  Freskyn 
de  Moravia,  ancestor  of  the  Duke  of  Sutherland,  in  the 
twelfth  century,  to  his  brother,  Bishop  Gilbert  Moray, 
by  whom,  in  1235,  it  was  transferred  to  a  third  brother, 
Richard  Moray,  of  Culbyn.  About  the  year  1440,  it 
£ame  to  the  family  of  Kinnaird  of  Kinnaird,  by  an 
heiress,  Egidia  Moray;  and  in  1515,  Andrew  Kinnaird 
360 


disposed  of  it  to  John  Mackay  of  Eddrachillis,  son  of 
Mackay  of  Strathnaver,  the  superiority  remaining  with 
the  earls  of  Sutherland.  In  1829,  it  was  restored  to 
the  Sutherland  family  by  purchase.  So  early  as  1550, 
another  branch  of  the  Mackays  seized  the  territory  of 
Scourie  by  displacing  the  Mc  Leods,  and  located  them- 
selves here  under  the  title  of  Mackays  of  Scourie  ;  and 
from  this  family  sprang  Lieutenant-General  Hugh  Mac- 
kay, the  famous  commander-in-chief  in  the  time  of 
William  and  Mary,  eminent  for  his  skill  and  bravery, 
and  who  fell  in  1692,  shortly  after  the  siege  of  Namur, 
where  he  commanded  the  British  division  of  the  grand, 
army. 

The  parish  was  formerly  included  in  Durness,  but 
was  separated  in  1726;  its  extreme  length  from  north 
to  south  is  twenty-five  miles,  its  mean  breadth  seven 
miles,  and  it  contains  about  1 12,000  acres.  It  is  situ- 
ated in  the  angle  of  the  county  formed  by  the  Atlantic 
and  Northern  Seas,  and  in  its  general  features,  like 
other  Highland  districts,  is  exceedingly  wild,  rugged, 
and  mountainous,  in  some  parts  highly  romantic,  and 
interesting  to  the  tourist.  Its  outline  is  altogether  irre- 
gular, being  indented  by  numerous  fissures  and  arms  of 
the  sea,  and  it  is  naturally  formed  into  three  parts, 
namely,  the  Scourie  division,  between  Loch  Glendhu  and 
Loch  Laxford ;  Ceathramh-garbh,  between  Loch  Lax- 
ford  and  Loch  Inchard ;  and  Ashare.  The  derivation 
of  the  first  of  these  three  names  is  unknown  ;  the  second 
signifies  "a  rough  section  of  country,"  and  the  third 
"arable  land."  The  principal  mountains  are,  Beinne- 
Leothaid,  Beinne-Stac,  Beinne-Stroim,  Arkle,  and  the 
south-west  range  of  the  Reay  forest  to  the  summit  of 
Toinne-Beinne,  Meal-Horn,  Sabhal-mhoir,  and  Mille- 
Rinidh,  with  part  of  Beinne-Shith  :  several  of  these  rise 
3000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  Reay  forest, 
or  Diru-moir,  which  claims  particular  notice,  has  always 
been  reckoned  one  of  the  principal  forests  in  Scotland. 
Considerable  tracts  of  it  had  been  allotted  for  sheep  at 
the  commencement  of  the  present  century,  but  upon 
the  expiration  of  the  leases,  the  proprietor  restored  the 
whole  to  its  ancient  character  of  a  deer  forest,  and  the 
extent  of  land  set  apart  for  this  purpose  is  estimated  at 
60,000  acres,  of  which  half  is  in  this  parish,  and  half 
in  Durness.  Thousands  of  red-deer  roam  in  this  terri- 
tory, under  the  management  of  regularly  appointed 
foresters ;  almost  every  description  of  game  visits  the 
parish,  and  the  black  eagle  occupies  the  highest  rocks. 
The  harbours  are  numerous  and  excellent,  and  are  said 
to  be  so  large  as  to  be  capable  of  affording  safe  anchor- 
age to  the  whole  naval  and  mercantile  shipping  of  Great 
Britain  ;  those  most  celebrated  are,  Lochs  Laxford, 
Inchard,  Badcall,  Calva,  Glendhu,  and  the  Sound  of 
Handa.  Besides  the  island  of  Handa,  there  is  a  cluster 
of  isles  consisting  of  about  twenty,  lying  between  Ed- 
drachillis and  Assynt,  which  are  uninhabited,  but  afford 
good  pasturage  for  lambs  and  cattle.  The  most  remark- 
able inland  lakes  are  Loch  Moir  and  Loch  Stac,  which 
are  well  stocked  with  different  kinds  of  trout ;  the  most 
considerable  rivers  are  the  Laxford  and  Inchard,  which, 
with  numerous  minor  streams,  discharge  themselves 
into  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The  different  districts  of  the 
parish  are  well  supplied  with  water,  principally  from 
perennial  springs. 

Though  the  principal  occupation,  besides  fishing,  is 
the   rearing  and  pasturing  of  sheep,  yet  some  part  of 


EDEN 


EDI  N 


the  land  is  under  tillage.  The  soil  is  generally  a  mix- 
ture of  gravel  and  moss,  considerably  improved  by  the 
application  of  sea-weed  for  manure  ;  the  lands  of  Ashare 
are  superior  to  the  rest,  and  consist,  like  the  island 
of  Handa,  of  dark  loam  mixed  with  sand.  The  crops 
raised  are,  potatoes,  bear,  and  oats,  the  ground  for 
which  is  prepared  by  the  common  garden  spade  and 
the  Highland  implement  called  the  cas-chrom.  The 
sheep  on  the  large  farms  are  the  pure  Cheviots ;  those 
of  the  smaller  tenants  are  a  cross  between  the  Cheviot 
and  the  native  black-faced  :  the  cattle  are  of  an  inferor 
kind.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3027. 
The  rocks  comprise  gneiss,  hornblende,  veins  of  granite, 
and  quartz  ;  limestone,  also,  is  met  with  on  the  sides  of 
some  of  the  lochs.  The  island  of  Handa  is  composed 
chiefly  of  the  best  sort  of  red  sandstone,  and  its  rocks 
lie  horizontally,  and  are  considered  by  geologists  as 
possessing  an  almost  equal  interest,  though  of  another 
kind,  with  the  celebrated  basaltic  columns  in  the  island 
of  Staffa. 

The  people  are  principally  located  on  the  sea-coast, 
in  townships  or  hamlets,  each  family  possessing  a 
certain  portion  of  land;  and  their  occupation  consists 
partly  of  tilling  the  ground  and  partly  of  fishing,  the 
latter  comprehending  the  herring,  salmon,  white,  and 
lobster  fisheries.  Those  who  have  commodious  boats 
go  for  herrings  to  the  Caithness  coast,  but  large  quan- 
tities are  taken  at  home  in  the  lochs,  especially  in  Loch 
Glendhu.  The  salmon-fishing  is  good,  and  of  the 
swarms  of  almost  every  description  of  white-fish  on 
these  shores  very  considerable  numbers  are  taken ;  all 
kinds  of  shell-fish  are  abundant,  and  lobsters  are  con- 
veyed from  this  place  in  smacks,  by  a  London  company, 
to  the  market  at  Billingsgate.  Whales,  porpoises,  and 
seals,  likewise  frequent  the  coast  ;  but  the  first  of  these 
are  never  captured.  The  chief  approach  to  the  parish 
from  the  south  is  through  a  part  of  Assynt  to  the  kyle 
of  Scow,  where  is  a  ferry  380  yards  broad ;  and  there 
is  a  post-office  at  Scourie,  which  communicates  twice 
a  week  with  Golspie.  A  line  of  road  thirty-two  miles 
in  extent  runs  through  the  parish  ;  and  three  inns  have 
been  erected  in  it,  solely  at  the  expense  of  the  Duke  of 
Sutherland,  by  whose  liberality  and  exertions  the  whole 
aspect  of  the  district  has  been  entirely  changed.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of 
Tongue  and  synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caithness  ;  patron, 
the  Crown.  The  stipend  is  £15S,  of  which  £103  are 
paid  by  the  exchequer,  with  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per 
annum,  and  there  is  a  manse  at  Badcall,  recently  erected. 
The  church  is  a  plain  edifice,  built  upwards  of  a  century 
ago,  and  thoroughly  repaired  about  seven  years  since  ; 
it  is  a  commodious  edifice  in  very  excellent  condition, 
and  contains  2/5  sittings.  There  is  also  a  good  church 
at  Keanlochbervie,  to  which  a  quoad  sacra  district  was 
annexed  by  act  of  parliament  in  the  5th  of  George  IV. 
The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  wor- 
ship. There  is  a  parochial  school  at  Scourie,  of  which 
the  master  has  the  maximum  salary,  a  house,  and 
allowance  for  a  garden;  a  school  was  erected  and  en- 
dowed for  the  Keanlochbervie  district  in  1S45,  and 
another  is  supported  at  Ashare  by  the  Society  for  Pro- 
pagating Christian  Knowledge. 

EDENTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Collessie, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife  ;  containing  45  inha- 
bitants. 

Vol.  I. — 361 


Seal  and  Arms. 


EDINBURGH,  a 

city,  the  seat  of  a  university, 
and  the  metropolis  of  the 
kingdom  of  Scotland,  situ- 
ated in  longitude  3°  10'  30" 
(W.),  and  latitude  55°  57'  29" 
(N.),  about  a  mile  (S.  by  W.) 
from  Leith,  40  miles  (S.  S.W.) 
from  Dundee,  42  (E.  by  N.) 
from  Glasgow,  44  (S.  by  E.) 
from  Perth,  55  (W.  by  N.) 
from  Berwick-upon-Tweed, 
92i  (N.  by  W.)  from  Car- 
lisle, 109  (S.  W.  by  S.)  from  Aberdeen,  156  (S.  by  E.) 
from  Inverness,  270  (N.  E.)  from  Dublin,  and  392 
(N.  N.  W.)  from  London ;  containing  56,330,  and,  in- 
cluding the  suburban  parishes  of  St.  Cuthbert  and 
Canongate,  13S,1S2,  inhabitants.  The  following  is  a 
list  of  the  subjects  comprised  in  the  article,  with  the 
page  in  which  each  head  or  division  occurs  : — 


Early  History 

Events  of  the  14th  Century 

Of  the  15th    

And  of  the  lGth     

Era  of  the  Reformation     .. 

Occurrences  connected  with 
Mary,  Queen  of  Scots    . , 

And  with  James  VI 

Events  of  the  17th  Century. 

Proceedings  of  the  Cove- 
nanters    

The  Parliamentary  War  . . . 

Era  of  the  Revolution    .... 

Important  Events  of  the 
18th  Century     

Efforts  of  the  Pretender  in 
1715 

And  in  1745 

Events  of  the  19th  Century 

Royal  Visits 


361 

tional  Monument;  Monu- 

362 

ments    to  Playfair,  Stew- 

362 

art,  Burns,  and  Scott  .... 

377 

362 

Lighting,    &c.    Railways 

363 

378 

364 

Municipal   Affairs;    County 

365 

379 

366 

History, Government,  Build- 

ings, of  the  University 

381 

366 

New  College,  High  School, 

367 

382 

368 

Ecclesiastical     arrange- 
ments, and  Places  of  Wor- 

368 

ship:  High  Church  Parish 
Old  Church,  Tolbooth,  Tri- 

383 

369 

nity  College,  New  North, 

369 

384 

370 

The  Old  Grey  Friars',  New 

371 

Grey  Friars', St.Andrew's, 
St.  George's,    Lady  Yes- 
ter's,  St.  Mary's,  and  St. 

371 

Stephen's  Parishes     .... 
Canongate,    St.    Cuthbert's, 

384 

372 

Greenside,  and  St.  John's 
Former    Quoad    Sacra    Pa- 

385 

373 

386 

374 

Hospitals  and  other  Chari- 
table Institutions  ;    He- 

386 

George  Watson's,  John  Wat- 

375 

son's,  Merchants'  Maiden, 
and  Trades'  Maiden  Hos- 

387 

376 

Oiphan, Gillespie's,  Donald- 

son's, and  Trinity  Hospi- 

376 

388 

377 

The  Royal  Infirmary,  Pub- 
lic    Dispensary,    Lunatic 
Asylum,   Asylum  for  the 
Blind,  and  Institution  for 

377 

Fettes'  Endowment,    Chal- 
mers' Hospital,  and  Mis- 

388 

cellaneous  Charities   .... 

389 

389 

General  Description  of  the 
City    

Its  Extension  at  various 
Periods 

Notice  of  the  Castle :  the 
Regalia 

Of  Holyrood  Abbey  and 
Palace     

Of  the  Parliament-House, 
and  the  Libraries  of  the 
Advocatesand  the  Writers 
to  the  Signet 

Of  the  College  of  Physicians, 
that  of  Surgeons,  and  the 
Medical  Society     ...... 

Oftlie  Royal  Exchange,  and 
the  Bank  of  Scotland.. .. 

The  Register  Office 

Royal  Institution  and  other 
Literary  and  Scientific 
Institutions ;  Assembly 
Rooms;  Theatre 

Monuments  to  Nelson,  David 
Hume,  Lord  Melville,  the 
Earl  of  Hopetoun,  George 
IV.,    and   Pitt;   the   Na- 


Historical  Account. 

This  city  takes  its  name,  in  ancient  records  Dun  Edin, 
signifying  "the  hill  of  Edin,  or  Edwin,"  from  its  castle, 
either    founded  or  rebuilt  by  Edwin,  King   of  North- 

3  A 


E  D  I  N 


ED  IN 


umbria,  who,  having  greatly  increased  his  power  and 
extended  his  dominions,  erected,  in  626,  a  strong  for- 
tress for  the  protection  of  his  newly-acquired  territories 
from  the  frequent  incursions  of  the  Scots  and  Picts. 
The  original  fortress  is  supposed  to  have  existed  prior 
to  the  year  452,  at  which  time  it  was  captured  by  the 
Saxons,  and  Edinburgh  remained  in  their  possession 
till  685,  when  it  was  recovered  by  the  Scots ;  but  it  was 
soon  afterwards  again  taken  by  the  Saxons,  and  con- 
tinued to  form  part  of  the  kingdom  of  Nortkumbria 
until  936.  In  that  year  it  was  granted,  together  with 
all  the  lands  reaching  to  the  Firth  of  Forth,  by  Athel- 
stan  to  his  sister  on  her  marriage  with  Sictrich  of 
Sihtric  ;  but  about  956  it  was  ultimately  regained  by 
the  Scots,  since  which  it  has  been  included  in  their 
kingdom.  The  very  tardy  increase  of  the  town,  which 
did  not  attain  to  any  considerable  importance  prior  to 
the  14th  century,  is  attributed  to  its  situation  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Firth,  and  its  consequent  exposure  to 
the  depredations  of  the  English,  by  whom,  in  their  hos- 
tile incursions,  it  was  often  pillaged  and  burnt.  From 
the  frequency  of  these  devastations,  moreover,  not  only 
was  the  progress  of  the  town,  which,  from  its  castle, 
was  called  '■'  Edwin's  burgh,"  materially  retarded,  but 
the  public  records  were  destroyed  ;  and  the  city  archives 
throw  light  on  no  transactions  of  any  authenticity 
prior  to  the  year  1329,  when  Robert  I.  granted  the  in- 
habitants a  charter.  Indeed,  even  from  that  period 
till  the  year  1581  there  occur  only  a  few  unconnected 
and  unimportant  events.  It  is  not  known  by  which 
of  the  Scottish  monarchs  Edinburgh  was  first  consti- 
tuted a  royal  burgh ;  but  that  it  was  such  in  the  reign 
of  David  I.  is  evident  from  reference  made  to  it  in 
charters  granted  by  him  to  other  towns,  and  which 
have  been  preserved  ;  and  it  is  more  than  probable  that 
the  lands  called  the  Borough-Moor  and  Borough-Myre 
were  bestowed  by  that  sovereign,  in  his  charter  to  the 
city,  now  lost.  In  1385,  John,  Earl  of  Carrick,  son  of 
Robert  II.,  and  lord  high  steward  of  Scotland,  conferred 
upon  the  inhabitants,  by  charter  of  the  4th  of  July, 
power  to  erect  houses  in  the  precincts  of  the  castle, 
with  the  privilege  of  free  ingress  and  egress  to  their 
servants ;  and  in  13SS,  Robert  II.,  by  charter  of  the 
15th  of  July,  gave  them  a  tract  of  land  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Market-street,  for  the  improvement  of  the 
town. 

In  1437,  Walter,  Earl  of  Atholl,  his  grandson  Robert, 
and  kinsman  Robert  Graham,  were  publicly  executed  in 
Edinburgh  for  the  murder  of  James  I.  in  the  monastery 
of  the  Black  Friars  at  Perth.  In  1447,  James  II., 
by  charter  dated  the  4th  of  November,  allowed  the 
citizens  the  liberty  of  holding  an  annual  fair  on  the 
festival  of  the  Holy  Trinity.  In  1461,  Henry  VI.  of 
England,  with  his  queeu  Margaret  and  his  son  Edward, 
Prince  of  Wales,  after  the  defeat  of  his  army  at  the 
battle  of  Towton,  fled  for  refuge  into  Scotland,  and  was 
hospitably  entertained  in  the  castle  of  Edinburgh.  The 
honourable  reception  he  received  from  the  citizens  in- 
duced him,  on  his  return  to  the  south,  to  issue  letters- 
patent  granting  to  the  citizens  of  Edinburgh  full  per- 
mission to  trade  with  England,  paying  no  more  duties 
on  merchandise  than  his  own  subjects  ;  but  his  sub- 
sequent exclusion  from  the  throne  rendered  this  privi- 
lege unavailing.  In  1477,  James  III.  gave  the  citizens 
a  charter  enabling  them  to  appropriate  certain  parts  of 
362 


the  town  for  holding  the  markets,  which  previously 
had  not  been  fixed  to  any  precise  spot,  or  limited  to 
any  particular  days.  In  1481,  this  monarch  having 
excited  the  dissatisfaction  of  his  brother,  Alexander, 
Duke  of  Albany,  and  others  of  the  nobility,  by  his 
inauspicious  entertainment  of  favourites,  they  entered 
into  a  confederacy  for  the  removal  of  those  persons  by 
whom  he  was  influenced  to  the  prejudice  of  the 
country  ;  and  the  king,  being  intimidated  by  these  pro- 
ceedings, took  refuge  in  the  castle  of  Edinburgh,  in 
which  he  was  detained  a  prisoner  for  nearly  nine  months, 
while  the  confederates  were  appointed  regents  of  the 
kingdom.  But  the  Duke  of  Albany,  discontented  with 
the  conduct  of  the  other  regents,  and  yielding  to  the 
importunities  of  the  queen  for  the  liberation  of  her 
husband,  appointed  a  meeting  of  certain  of  his  friends 
at  Edinburgh,  who,  assisted  by  a  body  of  the  citizens, 
assaulted  the  castle,  and  restored  the  king  to  liberty. 

James,  thus  replaced  in  the  government,  in  testimony 
of  the  loyalty  of  the  citizens,  bestowed  upon  them  two 
charters  in  1482,  conferring  many  valuable  privileges, 
among  which  was  the  appointment  of  sheriffs  having 
power  to  hold  courts  for  the  trial  of  criminals,  with 
fines  and  escheats  belonging  to  their  office.  The  inhabit- 
ants were  also  invested  with  liberty  to  make  laws  for 
the  due  government  of  the  city,  were  exempted  from  pay- 
ment of  the  duties  on  salt,  and  received  a  grant  of 
customs  and  dues  on  the  several  articles  of  merchandise 
in  their  port  of  Leith  ;  and  as  a  perpetual  memorial 
of  their  loyalty  and  services,  the  king  removed  the  seat 
of  government  and  the  royal  residence,  previously  at 
Perth,  to  the  city  of  Edinburgh,  which  he  thus  made 
the  metropolis  of  his  kingdom.  Among  other  marks 
of  his  favour  bestowed  upon  the  citizens  at  this  time, 
was  the  gift  of  a  standard  or  banner,  to  which  the 
craftsmen,  not  only  of  Edinburgh,  but  of  all  other  cities 
within  the  realm,  were  bound  to  repair  for  the  assist- 
ance of  the  magistrates  in  defence  of  their  king  and  of 
their  own  rights ;  this  flag  is  still  preserved  by  the 
convener  of  the  trades,  and  on  its  being  displayed  in 
times  of  emergency,  all  the  artizans  of  the  city  and  sur- 
rounding districts  are  compelled  to  assemble,  and  place 
themselves  at  his  disposal. 

Events  of  the  Sixteenth  Century. 

In  150S,  James  IV.  granted  the  citizens  a  charter 
enabling  them  to  let  the  common  lands  designated  the 
Borough-Moor,  and  the  marsh  called  the  Commou-Myre, 
at  fee-farm  rents.  The  citizens,  on  this,  immediately 
proceeded  to  clear  the  grounds,  and  cut  down  the  trees 
with  which  they  were  thickly  covered  ;  and  having  in 
this  manner  procured  a  vast  quantity  of  timber,  the 
town  council,  for  promoting  the  sale  of  it,  allowed  to  all 
purchasers  of  a  sufficient  quantity  to  new-front  their 
houses  the  privilege  of  extending  them  seven  feet  into 
the  High-street  beyond  their  former  boundaries,  on 
each  side.  Thus  not  only  was  the  principal  street  re- 
duced fourteen  feet  in  width,  but  the  houses  previously 
fronted  with  stone  were  now  entirely  constructed  of 
wood,  to  the  great  prejudice  of  the  general  appearance 
of  the  city.  In  1513,  James,  being  by  the  intrigues  of 
France  led  into  a  war  with  England,  in  opposition  to 
the  counsel  of  his  nobles,  mustered  an  army  on  the 
Borough-Moor,  where  being  joined  by  the  citizens  under 


ED  I  N 


ED  I  N 


their  provost,  the  Earl  of  Angus,  lie  marched  into 
England,  and  was  defeated  in  the  disastrous  battle  of 
Flodden-Field,  in  which  the  king  and  most  of  the 
Scottish  nobility  were  slain.  The  royal  bod5r,  being 
found  after  the  battle,  was  carried  to  Berwick-on-Tweed, 
embalmed,  and  sent  to  London  inclosed  in  lead,  and 
was  thence  conveyed  to  the  monastery  of  Sheen,  at 
Richmond,  for  interment. 

On  the  news  of  this  calamitous  defeat,  the  town 
council  of  Edinburgh  issued  a  proclamation  enjoining 
all  the  citizens  capable  of  bearing  arms  to  assemble 
at  the  cross,  and  join  the  lord  provost  for  the  defence  of 
the  town  against  any  attempts  of  the  victorious  enemy ; 
a  guard  was  raised,  £500  were  voted  for  purchasing 
arms  and  ammunition,  and  such  of  the  inhabitants  as 
had  gardens  attached  to  their  houses  were  required,  for 
greater  security,  to  fortify  them  by  the  erection  of  walls. 
The  consternation  of  the  people  was  aggravated  by  the 
prevalence  of  the  plague,  which  was  making  dreadful 
havoc  among  them.  The  council,  in  consideration  of 
the  arduous  duties  devolving  upon  the  provost  during 
this  period  of  war  and  pestilence,  ordered  one  hundred 
merks  to  be  added  to  his  annual  income;  and  to  pre- 
vent the  further  ravages  of  the  plague,  they  directed 
that  all  the  houses  on  the  Borough-Moor,  at  that  time 
crowded  with  infected  persons,  should  be  unroofed,  and 
the  walls  taken  down.  In  1524,  Francis  Bothwell, 
lord  provost  of  Edinburgh,  having  resigned  that  office 
according  to  the  king's  command,  obtained  permission 
to  enter  a  protest  that  his  resignation  should  in  no  wise 
be  drawn  into  a  precedent  derogatory  or  prejudicial  to 
the  rights  and  privileges  of  the  corporation.  In  1544, 
Eenry  VIII.  of  England,  disappointed  in  his  efforts  to 
negotiate  a  marriage  between  his  son,  Prince  Edward, 
and  the  Princess  Mary,  daughter  of  James  V.,  sent  an 
arm j'  into  Scotland  under  the  Earl  of  Hertford  in  order 
to  compel  the  Scots  to  the  proposed  alliance  ;  and  the 
English  forces,  having  landed  at  Leith,  and  taken  pos- 
session of  that  town  unopposed,  advanced  to  Edinburgh, 
which  they  pillaged  an«l  set  fire  to,  without  attempting 
to  reduce  the  castle.  The  earl  returned  with  his  army 
to  Leith,  burnt  the  place,  and  afterwards  retreated  into 
England  ;  but  again  entering  Scotland,  with  a  more 
numerous  army,  in  1547,  to  force  the  Scots  to  acquiesce 
in  the  projected  union,  achieved  a  victory  over  the 
Scottish  forces  at  the  battle  of  Pinkie,  and  again  plun- 
dered Edinburgh. 

Era  of  the  Reformation. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  Reformation  in  Scot- 
land, in  1556,  the  citizens  destroyed  the  statues  of  the 
Virgin  Mary  and  other  saints  in  the  church  of  St. 
Giles,  which  produced  a  mandate  from  the  queen  dow- 
ager, regent  of  the  kingdom,  to  the  lord  provost  and 
council  to  discover  the  offenders,  and  deliver  them  to 
the  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrew's,  to  be  dealt  with  accord- 
ing to  the  statutes  of  the  Church.  The  citizens,  under 
apprehension  of  an  invasion  from  England,  in  155S, 
displayed  the  utmost  zeal  in  support  of  the  government. 
The  merchants  raised  a  body  of  700  men,  well  armed 
and  accoutred,  and  the  craftsmen  of  the  various  incorpo- 
rations, at  a  meeting  in  the  Tolbooth,  resolved  to  fur- 
nish an  equal  number  for  the  defence  of  the  city  ;  the 
town  council,  also,  voted  considerable  supplies  for  the 
363 


assistance  of  the  queen.  On  the  celebration  of  the  fes- 
tival of  St.  Giles,  the  tutelar  patron  of  Edinburgh,  ac- 
cording to  custom,  the  popish  priests  and  monks,  in 
order  to  prevent  any  obstruction  from  the  friends  of  the 
Reformation,  requested  the  presence  of  the  queen  regent 
at  the  procession ;  but,  on  repairing  to  the  church  to 
place  the  statue  of  the  saintjon  the  carriage  prepared 
for  its  reception,  they  had  the  mortification  to  find  that 
it  had  been  removed  during  the  preceding  night.  To 
obviate  the  failure  of  their  purpose,  however,  a  smaller 
image  of  the  saint  was  borrowed  from  the  church  of  the 
Grey  Friars  ;  but,  the  queen  retiring  from  the  ceremony 
before  the  procession  had  concluded,  the  populace  seized 
the  statue,  which  they  demolished  in  their  rage,  and  the 
attendants  betook  themselves  to  flight,  though,  by  the 
prudent  conduct  of  the  magistrates,  no  further  excesses 
took  place. 

In  1559,  the  people  of  Perth  having  destroyed  many 
of  the  monasteries  in  that  town  and  neighbourhood,  the 
queen  regent,  fearful  of  similar  outrages  in  Edinburgh, 
issued  a  proclamation  to  the  provost  and  magistrates 
for  the  preservation  of  the  sacred  edifices  and  religious 
houses  from  violence,  to  which  they  paid  so  much  atten- 
tion that  she  addressed  to  them  a  letter  of  thanks  for 
their  diligent  observance  of  her  mandate.  To  prevent 
any  attempts  of  the  populace,  the  magistrates  ordered 
all  the  gates  of  the  city  to  be  closed,  writh  the  exception 
of  those  of  the  Netherbow  and  West-port,  at  which  they 
placed  sufficient  guards  ;  and  to  obviate  all  danger  from 
the  lords  of  congregation,  they  sent  commissioners  to 
Linlithgow,  to  negotiate  with  them  for  the  safety  of 
the  churches  and  monasteries,  promising  to  reserve  the 
former  for  worship  according  to  the  Protestant  doc- 
trines, and  the  latter  for  seminaries  on  the  principles  of 
the  Reformation  ;  and  in  the  interim,  they  posted  a 
guard  over  the  church  of  St.  Giles,  and  removed  the 
stalls  of  the  choir  into  the  Tolbooth  for  greater  security. 
On  the  29th  of  June,  the  lords  of  congregation  arrived 
at  Edinburgh,  and  appointed  two  commissioners  to 
attend  the  council,  where  it  was  resolved  that,  as  the 
change  was  still  in  progress,  the  citizens  should,  without 
molestation,  exercise  which  form  of  religion  they  might 
prefer  till  the  10th  of  January  following.  Upon  this, 
the  queen  regent  sent  an  order  to  the  council  to  sum- 
mon the  citizens,  and  make  a  return  of  their  choice 
between  the  two  forms  of  faith ;  against  such  a  course 
the  citizens  remonstrated  by  petition  to  the  lords  com- 
missioners, and  they  in  answer  declared  that  they  would 
compel  no  man  to  act  against  the  dictates  of  his  con- 
science. The  queen,  assisted  by  a  body  of  French 
troops,  now  made  every  effort  for  the  maintenance  of 
the  ancient  religion  ;  and  the  lords  of  congregation  re- 
solved to  raise  a  body  of  troops  for  their  defence,  in 
which  they  were  assisted  by  the  council,  who  raised  for 
them  a  considerable  force,  with  which  they  marched  to 
Leith,  and  summoned  the  garrison  to  surrender.  On 
the  first  show  of  resistance,  however,  they  fled  with 
precipitation  ;  several  were  slain  in  the  pursuit,  and  so 
great  was  the  panic  after  their  return  that  they  aban- 
doned the  city ;  but,  having  received  a  supply  of  Eng- 
lish troops  from  Queen  Elizabeth,  and  being  reinforced 
with  a  body  of  400  of  the  citizens,  they  again  assaulted 
the  town  of  Leith,  were  completely  successful  in  their 
object,  and  compelled  the  French  auxiliaries  to  quit  the 
country. 

3  A  1 


EDIN 


EDI  N 


Occurrences  connected  with  Mary. 

Upon  the  death  of  the  queen  regent  in  1560,  the 
lords  of  congregation  became  masters  of  the  kingdom ; 
and  in  a  treaty  between  them  and  the  ambassadors  of 
Francis  and  Mary,  afterwards  Queen  of  Scots,  it  was 
stipulated  that  a  parliament  should  be  held  in  Edinburgh, 
which  event  took  place  in  the  following  August :  at  this 
parliament  it  was  enacted  that  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
pope  in  Scotland  should  be  abolished,  and  the  confession 
of  faith  drawn  up  by  the  General  Assembly  established. 
The  result  of  this  meeting  excited  the  strongest  feelings 
of  indignation  in  the  mind  of  Mary,  who  refused  to  ratify 
the  proceedings,  and  on  the  19th  of  August,  1561, 
arrived  at  Leith  from  France  to  take  possession  of  the 
throne-  On  the  1st  of  September  she  made  her  public 
entry  into  Edinburgh,  and  was  received  with  the  most 
enthusiastic  acclamations  of  the  citizens,  who  testified 
their  loyalty  and  attachment  by  every  demonstration  of 
joy,  but  on  the  Sunday  after  her  arrival,  the  populace 
raised  a  tumult,  and  were  with  difficulty  restrained  by 
the  magistrates  from  interrupting  the  performance  of 
divine  service  at  the  chapel  of  Holyrood  House,  and  offer- 
ing violence  to  the  priest,  who  was  officiating  according 
to  the  Romish  ritual.  The  magistrates  issued  a  procla- 
mation against  papists,  and  the  queen  addressed  to 
them  a  letter  complaining  of  the  insult  thus  offered  to 
her  religion  ;  but  this  produced  on  their  part  only  a  re- 
publication of  the  edict  in  severer  terms,  enjoining  all 
Roman  Catholics  to  leave  the  town  under  heavy  penal- 
ties, which  so  exasperated  the  queen  that  she  issued  a 
mandate  to  the  lord  provost  and  council  to  divest  the 
magistrates  of  their  office,  and  elect  others  in  their  place, 
with  which  the  council  complied. 

The  marriage  of  the  queen  with  Lord  Darnley,  who 
had  the  day  previously  been  proclaimed  king  at  the  mar- 
ket-cross, was  solemnized  in  the  chapel  of  the  palace  of 
Holyrood  House  on  the  27th  of  July,  1565,  and  in  the 
following  year  the  queen  was  delivered  of  a  son,  after- 
wards James  VI.  of  Scotland,  who,  on  the  demise  of 
Elizabeth,  succeeded  to  the  crown  of  England  by  the 
title  of  James  I.  The  assassination  of  David  Rizzio, 
secretary  to  the  queen,  which  had  taken  place  in  the 
palace  not  long  before  this  event,  under  the  personal 
superintendence  of  Lord  Darnley,  had  tended  greatly  to 
alienate  the  affections  of  the  queen  ;  and  the  earl  soon 
after  left  the  court,  and  retired  to  Glasgow.  Labouring 
under  severe  indisposition,  however,  he  was  here  visited 
by  the  queen,  who  tended  him  during  his  illness,  and 
brought  him  back  with  her  to  Edinburgh  ;  and  that  he 
might  not  be  disturbed  by  the  inevitable  tumult  of  the 
palace,  she  fitted  up  a  house  for  his  reception  at  a  place 
in  the  vicinity,  called  the  Kirk  of  Field,  where  for  several 
nights  she  slept  in  an  apartment  underneath  his  cham- 
ber. On  the  9th  of  February,  the  queen,  having  to 
preside  at  the  marriage  of  one  of  her  household,  passed 
the  night  in  the  palace  ;  and  about  two  o'clock  on  the 
following  morning,  the  house  in  which  Lord  Darnley  lay 
was  blown  up  by  gunpowder,  and  his  body  was  found 
at  some  distance  in  an  adjoining  field,  without  any  appa- 
rent marks  of  contusion  or  violence.  The  Earl  of  Both- 
well,  who  was  strongly  suspected  of  the  murder  of 
Darnley,  was  publicly  charged  with  that  crime  by  the 
Earl  of  Lennox,  who  wrote  to  the  queen  imploring 
364 


speedy  justice  on  the  murderer  of  his  son  ;  but,  in  a  court 
soon  afterwards  held,  he  was  acquitted.  On  the  return 
of  the  queen  from  Stirling,  where  she  had  been  visiting 
her  infant  son,  she  was  waylaid  by  Bothwell  at  the 
head  of  a  body  of  800  horse,  and  forcibly  conveyed  to 
Dunbar,  where  she  was  detained  for  some  time  by  the 
earl,  who,  however,  subsequently  obtained  a  pardon 
for  this  act  of  violence  and  for  all  other  crimes,  and, 
having  procured  a  divorce  from  his  wife,  sister  of  the 
Earl  of  Huntly,  was  married  to  the  queen,  in  Holyrood 
House,  on  the  15th  of  May. 

This  fatal  alliance  excited  the  indignation  of  the  prin- 
cipal nobility,  who  formed  an  association  for  the  protec- 
tion of  the  prince,  and  the  punishment  of  his  father's 
murderers ;  Bothwell  and  the  queen,  alarmed  at  this  in- 
surrection, fled  from  Holyrood,  and  took  refuge  in  the 
castle  of  Borthwick,  on  the  investment  of  which  by 
Lord  Hume  they  effected  their  escape  to  Dunbar.  The 
confederate  lords,  with  a  force  of  3000  men,  took  pos- 
session of  Edinburgh  ;  and  Bothwell  hearing  that  they 
had  sustained  some  disasters,  quitted  the  fortress  of 
Dunbar,  and  advanced  to  encounter  them  in  the  field. 
The  armies  met  at  Carberry  Hill,  about  six  miles  from 
the  city  ;  but  Mary,  mistrusting  the  fidelity  of  her  own 
troops,  whom  she  knew  to  be  unfavourable  to  her  cause, 
and  having  no  other  resource,  held  a  conference  with 
Kirkaldy,  and,  on  receiving  some  general  promises  of 
protection,  placed  herself  in  the  hands  of  the  confede- 
rates, by  whom  she  was  conducted  to  Edinburgh  amidst 
the  insults  of  the  populace.  Bothwell,  during  the 
queen's  conference  with  Kirkaldy,  fled  unattended  to 
Dunbar,  and  fitting  out  a  few  small  vessels,  sailed  for 
the  Orkneys,  where  for  a  time  he  subsisted  by  piracy  ; 
but,  being  pursued  by  Kirkaldy,  he  effected  his  escape 
in  an  open  boat,  and  obtained  a  passage  to  Denmark, 
where  he  was  thrown  into  prison,  and  died  miserably 
about  ten  years  after.  Several  of  his  servants  were 
made  prisoners,  and,  having  revealed  all  the  circum- 
stances of  the  murder  of  Darnley,  were  punished  for  the 
crime.  The  queen  was  detainee}  as  a  prisoner  in  the 
house  of  the  lord  provost,  and  subjected  to  every 
reproach  from  the  populace,  who  displayed,  on  her  ap- 
pearance at  the  window,  a  banner  bearing  the  effigy  of 
her  murdered  husband,  with  that  of  the  infant  prince  by 
his  side,  and  the  legend  "  Judge,  and  revenge  my  cause, 
O  Lord."  But,  the  queen  appealing  to  the  compassion 
of  the  citizens,  it  is  said  they  unfurled  the  standard 
given  to  them  by  James  III.,  and,  raising  a  sufficient 
force,  compelled  her  persecutors  to  restore  her  to  the 
palace  of  Holyrood,  from  which,  however,  she  was  on  the 
following  day  conveyed  to  the  castle  of  Lochleven.  A 
council  of  regency  was  now  appointed,  and  a  deputation 
waited  upon  the  captive  queen  in  the  castle,  requiring 
her  to  sign  an  abdication  in  favour  of  the  infant  prince, 
who  was  proclaimed  king,  and  soon  after  crowned  at 
Stirling,  the  Earl  of  Morton  taking  the  coronation  oath 
in  his  name:  she  also  agreed  to  make  the  Earl  of  Murray 
regent,  and  to  nominate  a  council  to  administer  the 
government  till  he  should  arrive  from  the  continent. 

The  Earl  of  Murray,  who  had  been  thus  appointed 
regent,  shortly  returned  from  France,  and  paid  a  visit 
to  the  queen  at  Lochleven.  He  obtained  possession  of 
the  castle  of  Edinburgh,  at  that  time  held  by  a  partisan 
of  Bothwell's,  and  of  which  he  created  Sir  William 
Kirkaldy  governor ;    but  Sir  William,  in    15"0,  finding 


E  D  I  N 


EDI  N 


to  what  severities  the  queen  was  subjected,  embraced 
her  cause,  and  the  city,  alternately  held  by  both  parties, 
became  for  some  time  the  scene  of  confusion  and  civil 
war.  The  lords  of  the  regency  applied  for  assistance  to 
Elizabeth  of  England,  and  that  queen  sent  to  their 
assistance  1000  infantry  and  300  cavalry,  under  the 
command  of  Sir  William  Drury,  who,  on  his  arrival  at 
Leith,  where  the  Scottish  army  was  encamped,  sum- 
moned the  governor  to  surrender  the  castle  of  Edin- 
burgh ;  but  a  party  who  had  been  driven  from  the  city, 
assembling  in  a  hostile  manner,  put  an  end  to  the 
treaty,  and  the  war  was  carried  on  with  the  most  fero- 
cious barbarity.  To  prevent  the  city  being  taken  by 
surprise,  a  strong  barrier  was  erected  by  the  queen's 
troops  at  the  Netherbow,  and  every  precaution  was 
adopted  for  its  security ;  the  war  continued  to  rage 
with  inveterate  fury,  and  such  was  the  rancour,  that 
those  who  were  made  prisoners,  on  either  side,  were 
led  to  immediate  execution.  A  truce  was  at  length  pro- 
posed and.  agreed  upon  by  the  leaders ;  but  Kirkaldy 
refusing  to  concur,  Sir  William  Drury,  who  had  re- 
treated into  England,  returned  with  a  more  formidable 
force,  and  ultimately  compelled  the  castle  to  surrender. 
During  this  period  the  city  suffered  greatly,  being  ex- 
posed on  the  one  hand  to  the  destructive  firing  from  the 
battery  of  the  castle,  and  on  the  other  to  the  devasta- 
tions of  the  contending  parties. 

Occurrences  connected  with  James  VI. 

On  the  conclusion  of  the  war,  the  Earl  of  Morton 
was  established  in  the  regency  ;  but,  becoming  odious 
from  the  unpopularity  of  his  conduct,  he  resigned  the 
office  to  the  young  king,  James  VI.,  and  the  castle, 
which  for  some  time  held  out  under  his  brother,  ulti- 
mately capitulated.  Morton,  however,  afterwards  re- 
suming his  authority,  repaired  to  Stirling,  and  ob- 
tained the  government  of  the  castle  there,  and  the 
custody  of  the  royal  person.  On  this,  the  citizens  of 
Edinburgh,  anxious  for  the  king's  safety,  raised  an 
armed  force,  and  drew  out  the  trained  bands,  for  the 
service  of  the  privy  council  ;  James  applied  to  the 
council  of  Edinburgh  for  a  guard  of  100  men  to  protect 
his  person,  and  for  some  troops  to  convey  the  Earl  of 
Morton  to  the  castle  of  Dunbar,  and  they  not  only  com- 
plied with  this,  but  also  gave  an  additional  100  men 
to  guard  the  palace  of- Holyrood  House.  The  king 
held  a  parliament  at  Edinburgh  in  1579  ;  and  on  his 
removal  subsequently  from  Stirling,  the  citizens  re- 
ceived him  with  joyful  acclamations,  and  escorted  him 
to  Holyrood  with  a  guard  of  2000  horsemen,  after  which 
he  convened  a  parliament  in  the  Tolbooth  :  the  Earl 
of  Morton,  late  regent,  was  accused  of  being  privy  to 
the  murder  of  Lord  Darnley,  and  on  being  brought  to 
trial  in  ]  580,  he  was  found  guilty,  and  put  to  death. 
In  1587,  the  king,  with  a  view  to  reconcile  the  nobles 
of  the  realm,  whom  civil  war  had  rent  into  adverse 
factions,  gave  a  royal  banquet  at  Holyrood  House, 
whence  he  conducted  his  hostile  guests  to  the  cross, 
where  they  were  entertained  by  the  magistrates  of  the 
city,  and  pledged  each  other  in  goblets  of  wine. 

The    magistrates,   on    the    approach    of  the    Spanish 

armada  towards  the  coast,  armed  the  citizens  to  prevent 

the   lauding  of  its  troops,   and  raised  a   body   of  300 

men  for  the  defence  of  Edinburgh  ;  and  just  before  the 

365 


marriage  of  James  with  the  Princess  Anne  of  Denmark, 
they  fitted  out  a  well-equipped  vessel  to  Denmark,  to 
bring  home  the  king  and  his  royal  bride,  on  whose 
arrival  at  Leith  they  escorted  the  princess  to  her  palace, 
and  afterwards  to  the  church  of  St.  Giles,  and,  on  the 
solemnization  of  her  marriage,  presented  her  with  a  very 
valuable  jewel.  In  1591,  Stuart,  Earl  of  Both  well,  made 
an  attempt  to  seize  the  person  of  the  king ;  but  his 
design  was  frustrated  by  the  vigilance  and  loyalty  of 
the  magistrates,  and  the  earl  and  eight  of  his  con- 
federates were  publicly  executed.  On  the  birth  of  the 
prince  Henry,  the  citizens  sent  to  the  king,  at  Stirling, 
a  gift  of  ten  tuns  of  wine,  and  a  deputation  of  100  of 
the  chief  inhabitants  to  assist  at  the  baptism.  An  at- 
tempt of  James  in  1596  to  controul  the  language  of  the 
pulpits  exasperated  both  the  clergy  and  the  citizens  ; 
a  tumult  arose,  in  which  the  person  of  the  king  was 
insulted  ;  and  on  his  subsequent  introduction  of  thea- 
trical performances,  a  meeting  of  the  presbytery  was 
convened,  and  a  decree  passed  against  the  toleration  of 
them,  which,  however,  on  the  presbytery  being  called 
before  the  privy  council,  they  were  compelled  to  retract. 
On  the  return  of  the  popish  lords  who  had  been 
pardoned  by  the  crown,  the  clergy  held  a  convocation 
of  their  most  influential  ministers  at  Edinburgh,  to 
which  they  gave  the  title  of  standing  council  of 
the  church  ;  and  being  cited  before  the  privy  council 
of  the  state  for  a  contemptuous  disregard  of  the  royal 
authority,  the  minister  of  St.  Andrew's  disavowed  all 
allegiance  to  the  government,  and  called  upon  the 
people  to  support  the  clergy  in  their  opposition.  The 
king  issued  a  proclamation  enjoining  the  new  council 
to  leave  Edinburgh  within  twenty-four  hours  ;  but  they 
refused  to  obey  it,  and  in  their  sermons  and  prayers 
invited  the  nobles  of  the  land  to  countenance  their  re- 
sistance to  the  royal  decree.  They  drew  up  a  petition, 
couched  in  the  most  opprobrious  language,  which  the 
king  declined  to  receive  ;  and  the  populace  rushed  in  a 
body  to  assault  the  Tolbooth,  in  which  the  king,  the 
judges,  and  the  chief  officers  of  state  were  assembled. 
This  attempt,  however,  was  frustrated  by  the  loyalty 
and  firmness  of  one  of  the  deacons,  who,  attended  by 
his  corporation,  intercepted  their  purpose ;  and  the 
mob,  in  some  degree  appeased  by  the  assurances  of  the 
lord  provost  that  the  king  would  accept,  any  petition 
respectfully  worded,  and  peaceably  presented,  at  length 
dispersed,  and  James  returned  unmolested  to  the  palace. 
On  the  following  day,  the  king  and  the  privy  council 
left  for  Linlithgow,  and  a  proclamation  was  published 
stating  that,  in  consequence  of  the  late  treasonable  out- 
rage, in  which  many  citizens,  instigated  by  the  ministers, 
had  taken  part,  the  crown  deemed  the  city  of  Edin- 
burgh no  longer  worthy  to  be  the  seat  of  government, 
to  be  unfit  for  the  residence  of  the  court,  and  for  the 
administration  of  justice.  The  state  therefore  required 
the  College  of  Justice,  the  inferior  judges,  and  the  barons 
to  retire  from  Edinburgh,  and  not  to  return  without 
the  king's  special  licence.  The  citizens  would  gladly 
have  conciliated  the  royal  favour,  but  the  ministers 
were  resolved  to  persevere  ;  they  proclaimed  a  fast,  and 
assailed  the  king  from  their  pulpits  with  the  most 
virulent  reproaches,  declaring  that  the  people  might 
lawfully  take  the  sword  out  of  his  hands ;  they  also 
addressed  a  letter  to  Lord  Hamilton,  intreating  him  to 
repair  to  Edinburgh,  place  himself  at  their  head,  and 


ED  I  N 


ED  IN 


be  the  leader  of  those  who  had  armed  themselves  in 
support  of  the  Church.  Hamilton,  however,  instead  of 
complying  with  their  request,  showed  the  letter  to  the 
king,  who  issued  his  mandate  to  the  magistrates  of 
Edinburgh,  for  the  seizure  and  incarceration  of  the 
ministers,  but,  having  intimation  of  the  intended  pro- 
ceedings, they  contrived  to  effect  their  escape. 

A  deputation  of  the  citizens  now  waited  upon  James 
at  Linlithgow,  to  endeavour  to  appease  his  resentment, 
but  in  vain.  The  king  went  the  following  day  to  Leith, 
and  thence  to  Edinburgh,  the  keys  of  which  were  ten- 
dered to  him  by  one  of  his  officers  of  state,  and  the 
charge  of  the  city  was  committed  to  the  Earl  of  Mar 
and  the  Lords  Seaton  and  Ochiltree;  the  citizens  were 
ordered  to  keep  within  their  houses  ;  the  streets  were 
lined  with  files  of  the  royal  guards,  between  which  the 
king  passed  to  the  Tolbooth,  and  a  convention  of  the 
states  was  held.  Before  this  assembly  the  magistrates 
of  the  city  humbled  themselves  with  submissive  rever- 
ence ;  they  made  the  most  solemn  protestations  of 
loyalty,  and  oifered  a  guarantee  that  none  of  the 
ministers  should  be  permitted  to  resume  their  charges, 
nor  any  others  be  admitted  to  the  pastoral  office  with- 
out the  royal  approbation.  They  also  proposed  to 
present  to  the  king,  and  to  the  lords  of  the  council,  a 
list  of  all  the  officers  of  the  corporation  for  their  ap- 
proval before  they  were  appointed,  and  gave  every 
assurance  of  their  freedom  from  any  participation  in 
the  tumult,  and  of  their  resolution  to  discover  and  bring 
to  justice  its  authors  and  abettors.  But  all  these 
proffers  were  vain  ;  the  convention  of  the  states  pro- 
nounced the  insurrection  to  be  high-treason,  and  that 
the  city  should  be  subjected  to  all  the  penalties  ;  it  was 
even  proposed  that  the  place  should  be  rased  to  its 
foundations,  and  that  a  pillar  should  be  erected  on  the 
site  as  a  lasting  monument  of  its  disgrace.  The  inter- 
position of  Elizabeth  obtained  from  the  king  a  mitiga- 
tion of  the  sentence,  but  the  town  council  were  notwith- 
standing ordered,  as  representatives  of  the  city,  to  enter 
themselves  in  ward  in  the  town  of  Perth  ;  the  trial 
commenced  on  the  1st  of  March,  when,  one  of  the  coun- 
cil neglecting  to  appear,  the  cause  was  decided,  the 
community  declared  rebels,  and  their  revenues  escheated 
to  the  crown.  Edinburgh  continued  for  some  time  in 
a  state  of  anarchy,  but  at  length  the  citizens  submitted 
themselves  entirely  to  the  king's  mercy,  and  on  the 
supplication  of  the  magistrates  and  council,  they  were 
to  a  certain  extent  relieved  from  the  forfeiture,  and 
restored  to  their  wonted  privileges.  In  1599,  the  con- 
vention of  the  states  assembled  at  Edinburgh  on  the 
10th  of  December,  and  ordained  that  the  first  day  of 
the  year,  which  had  previously  been  reckoned  the  25th 
of  March,  should  be  thenceforth  the  1st  of  January. 

Events  of  the  Seventeenth  Century. 

In  1603,  James  VI.,  being  on  the  death  of  Elizabeth 
successor  to  the  crown  of  England,  took  leave  of  the 
citizens  in  the  church  of  St.  Giles,  and,  addressing  them 
after  the  sermon,  assured  them  of  his  future  remem- 
brance and  protection ;  and  on  the  5th  of  April  he 
departed  for  London,  whither  he  was  followed  on  the 
1st  June  by  the  queen  and  royal  family.  In  1609,  he 
granted  to  the  town  council  of  Edinburgh  a  duty  of 
£4  Scotch  on  every  tun  of  wine  sold  within  the  city, 
366 


and  ordered  that  a  sword  should  be  borne  before  the 
lord  provost,  and  that  the  magistrates  should  in  public 
wear  gowns  of  state.  The  king,  who  on  his  departure 
had  promised  to  visit  his  native  dominions  every  three 
years,  found  no  opportunity  of  doing  so  till  the  year 
1617,  when,  on  the  16th  of  May,  he  arrived  at  Edin- 
burgh, and  was  received  with  every  demonstration  of 
joyful  welcome  by  the  provost  and  magistrates,  who 
entertained  him  with  a  sumptuous  banquet,  and  pre- 
sented him  with  10,000  merks  in  a  silver  basin.  After  the 
death  of  this  monarch,  his  son  and  successor,  Charles, 
paid  a  visit  to  Edinburgh  on  the  16th  of  May,  1633,  for 
the  purpose  of  being  crowned  King  of  Scotland,  which 
ceremony  was  performed  in  the  abbey  church  of  Holy- 
rood  with  unusual  splendour.  In  two  days  afterwards, 
the  king  convened  his  first  parliament  in  the  Tolbooth, 
and  confirmed  the  authority  of  the  College  of  Justice, 
the  privileges  of  the  royal  burghs,  and  the  rights  of  the 
citizens  ;  and  on  the  ISth  of  July  he  left  the  city  on  his 
return  to  England,  halting  for  a  night  at  Dalkeith,  Sea- 
ton,  and  Innerwick,  on  his  route.  Charles  was  accom- 
panied in  this  visit  by  Archbishop  Laud,  who  was  sworn 
a  privy  councillor  of  Scotland  at  Holyrood  House,  and 
preached  several  times  in  the  chapel  royal ;  and  while 
here  the  king  erected  the  bishopric  of  Edinburgh. 

During  the  time  that  he  was  in  Scotland,  the  people 
testified  the  most  loyal  attachment  to  their  sovereign ; 
but  great  discontents  broke  out  soon  after  his  depar- 
ture, and  the  subsequent  introduction  of  the  English 
liturgy  into  the  Church  of  Scotland,  in  1637,  exaspe- 
rated these  discontents  into  open  rebellion.  On  the 
attempt  to  read  the  liturgy  in  St.  Giles'  church,  the 
utmost  confusion  was  excited  ;  missiles  were  thrown  at 
the  head  of  the  dean  while  performing  the  service, 
and  at  Dr.  Lindsay,  Bishop  of  Edinburgh,  who  had 
ascended  the  pulpit  in  the  hope  of  appeasing  the  tumul- 
tuous uproar  ;  a  mob  collected  in  the  streets,  and  hurled 
stones  at  the  bishop  while  proceeding  home  in  his  car- 
riage with  the  lord  privy  seal,  and  the  Earl  of  Traquair 
and  the  Bishop  of  Galloway  escaped  with  difficulty  from 
the  populace.  The  national  covenant  was  subscribed 
by  great  numbers  of  the  nobility  and  gentry,  and 
by  the  inhabitants  generally  in  the  Grey  Friars ;  and 
copies  of  it  were  circulated  extensively  throughout  the 
country.  The  king,  alarmed  at  these  proceedings, 
commissioned  the  Marquess  of  Hamilton  to  negotiate 
with  the  Scots,  many  of  whom  were  already  in  arms 
for  the  support  of  the  covenant ;  and  when  the  mar- 
quess arrived  in  Scotland  he  found  it  in  a  state  of  rebel- 
lion. The  town  council  of  Edinburgh  took  part  with 
the  Covenanters,  and  raised  a  body  of  500  men  as  a 
reinforcement  of  their  army,  commanded  by  General 
Leslie,  who  assaulted  the  castle,  at  that  time  garri- 
soned by  a  body  of  troops  under  General  Ruthven,  and 
which  ultimately  surrendered  to  the  Covenanters.  The 
forces  under  Leslie  afterwards  made  themselves  masters 
of  Dalkeith  House,  in  which  were  considerable  supplies 
of  military  stores  ;  and,  removing  these  into  the  castle, 
they  erected  some  fortifications  at  Leith,  sent  emissaries 
to  England  to  enlist  the  nonconformists  in  their  cause, 
also  applied  to  Cardinal  Richelieu  for  immediate  aid, 
and  levied  large  contributions,  by  loan,  for  carrying  on 
the  war.  Charles  sent  the  Duke  of  Hamilton  with  a 
fleet  of  twenty  ships  and  5000  land  forces,  to  reduce 
Edinburgh  and  Leith  to  obedience;  but  on  the  arrival 


ED  I  N 


EDIN 


of  this  force  in  the  Firth  of  Forth,  a  treaty  took  place, 
according  to  the  terms  of  which,  the  castle  and  other 
garrisons,  being  delivered  to  Hamilton,  the  troops  were 
withdrawn. 

In  1641,  the  king  made  a  second  visit  to  Edinburgh, 
where  he  assembled  a  parliament,  in  which  a  great  num- 
ber of  the  nobility  were  excluded  from  their  privilege 
of  voting,  because  they  refused  to  subscribe  the  cove- 
nant. The  Earl  of  Argyll,  the  head  of  the  Covenanters, 
was  created  a  marquess ;  Leslie,  who  had  commanded 
the  covenanting  army,  was  made  Earl  of  Leven,  and 
appointed  governor  of  the  castle,  and  all  the  tried  and 
faithful  friends  of  the  king  were  neglected,  or  super- 
seded in  their  offices  by  the  most  inveterate  of  his 
enemies,  in  the  hope  of  conciliation,  though  the  Cove- 
nanters, notwithstanding  all  these  concessions,  still 
remained  in  arms,  and  added  daily  to  the  number  of 
their  troops.  Charles  left  Edinburgh  on  the  16th  of 
November,  and  soon  after  his  return  to  England,  which 
he  found  embroiled  in  civil  war,  gained  some  advan- 
tages over  the  parliamentarian  leaders,  who,  in  1643, 
applied  to  the  Scots  for  assistance ;  the  Scottish  par- 
liament voted  a  supply  of  1S,000  foot,  2000  horse,  and 
1000  dragoons,  and  the  magistrates,  notwithstanding 
they  had  received  a  letter  from  the  king  reminding 
them  of  his  former  favours,  raised  a  regiment  of  1200 
foot  for  the  service  of  his  enemies.  After  the  defeat  of 
the  parliamentarian  army  in  1645  by  the  Marquess  of 
Montrose,  the  city  was  in  great  danger ;  the  plague 
was  raging  within  its  walls,  and  so  much  had  its  popu- 
lation been  reduced  by  the  ravages  of  war  and  pesti- 
lence, that,  in  case  of  assault,  scarcely  a  hundred  men 
could  have  been  mustered  in  its  defence.  Montrose, 
having  defeated  the  army  of  the  Covenanters  at  Kilsyth, 
addressed  a  letter  to  the  magistrates  requiring  them  to 
liberate  such  of  the  royalists  as  they  held  prisoners. 
With  this,  in  their  present  situation,  they  thought  it 
prudent  to  comply ;  but  the  king  having  at  that  time 
arrived  at  Newcastle-upon-Tyne  with  the  Scottish  army, 
to  whose  protection  he  had  resigned  himself,  a  treaty 
was  opened  with  the  English  parliament,  to  which  the 
citizens  of  Edinburgh  sent  a  deputation,  and  Charles 
was  eventually  given  up  to  the  English  commissioners, 
in  1647. 

From   1650  to   1700. 

The  Marquess  of  Montrose,  who,  after  the  execution 
of  the  King  in  1649,  had  been  appointed  by  Charles  II. 
his  captain-general  in  Scotland,  landed  in  1650,  with  a 
force  of  500  foreigners,  chiefly  Germans,  hoping  to 
obtain  from  the  Covenanters  more  reasonable  terms  for 
restoring  the  king  to  the  throne  ;  but,  being  defeated 
by  Gen.  David  Leslie,  he  assumed  the  disguise  of  a 
peasant,  and,  intrusting  his  person  to  the  protection  of 
a  perfidious  friend,  was  betrayed  to  his  enemies,  and 
conveyed  to  Edinburgh  amidst  the  most  degrading  and 
opprobrious  insults.  He  was  afterwards  sent  in  cus- 
tody to  London,  where  the  parliament  was  then  sitting, 
and,  being  brought  to  trial,  was  condemned  to  be  con- 
veyed to  Edinburgh,  where,  on  the  day  after  his  arri- 
val, he  was  publicly  executed  with  every  demonstration 
of  wanton  barbarity,  in  pursuance  of  his  sentence.  The 
English  parliament,  fearing  an  accommodation  between 
Charles  II.,  who  had  for  that  purpose  landed  from 
36~ 


Holland,  and  the  Scottish  commissioners,  who  were 
then  treating  with  him  for  his  restoration,  now  sent 
Cromwell  with  an  army  of  16,000  men  into  Scotland, 
in  order  to  check  the  negotiation.  Cromwell  encamped 
his  troops  on  the  Pentland  hills,  within  a  few  miles  of 
Edinburgh  ;  the  Scots,  commanded  by  Leslie,  were 
drawn  up  at  Corstorphine.  After  some  skirmishing, 
Cromwell  withdrew  to  Dunbar,  where  in  a  little  time  he 
was  so  straitened  for  want  of  provisions  that  he  pur- 
posed sending  his  infantry  and  artillery  by  sea  into  Eng- 
land, and  effecting  his  retreat  by  forcing  his  way,  with 
his  cavalry,  through  the  forces  of  Leslie,  which  had 
taken  post  between  Dunbar  and  Berwick.  Leslie,  how- 
ever, being  induced  to  descend  into  the  plain,  and  give 
battle  to  Cromwell,  an  engagement  took  place  in  which 
Leslie's  army  was  totally  routed  ;  and  Cromwell,  pur- 
suing his  advantage,  took  possession  of  Edinburgh  and 
Leith,  and  completed  the  fortifications  which  the  Scots 
had  begun  and  left  unfinished.  The  lord  provost  and 
magistrates,  on  the  news  of  the  defeat,  left  the  city,  and 
fled  to  Stirling.  The  principal  inhabitants,  however, 
chose  thirty  of  their  number  to  preserve  the  peace,  and 
to  treat  with  Cromwell ;  and  upon  the  arrival  of  the 
English  commissioners  at  Dalkeith,  for  settling  dis- 
putes, they  sent  a  deputation,  soliciting  the  restitution 
of  their  magistracy,  which  was  granted,  accompanied  by 
an  order  to  elect  two  representatives  to  meet  the  com- 
missioners, and  assist  in  the  arrangement  of  public 
affairs. 

On  the  restoration  of  Charles  II.,  the  citizens  pre- 
sented the  king  with  the  sum  of  £1000  as  a  testimony 
of  their  loyalty,  which  he  acknowledged  by  granting 
them  the  privilege  of  levying  one-third  of  a  penny  on 
every  pint  of  ale,  and  two-pence  on  every  pint  of  wine 
consumed  in  the  city.  But  the  subsequent  efforts  of 
that  monarch  to  re-establish  episcopacy,  and  introduce 
the  English  liturgy,  exasperated  their  feelings  ;  and  the 
suppression  of  conventicles  by  military  force  excited  in 
their  minds  the  most  determined  opposition.  The  west- 
ern counties  rose  in  arms,  surprised  a  party  of  the  royal 
forces  at  Dumfries,  and  marched  thence  to  Edinburgh, 
professing  allegiance  to  the  crown,  but  demanding  the 
re-establishment  of  the  Presbyterian  form  of  worship, 
and  the  restoration  of  their  former  ministers.  On  this 
insurrection,  the  city  was  put  into  a  state  of  defence;  the 
gates  were  closed ;  the  magistrates  ordered  all  the  citi- 
zens who  had  horses  to  assemble,  and  hold  themselves 
in  readiness  to  act  for  the  preservation  of  order ;  the 
College  of  Justice  formed  themselves  into  a  company, 
and  were  supplied  with  arms  for  the  security  of  the 
government.  By  these  means  the  insurgents  were  soon 
subdued  ;  about  fifty  were  killed,  and  150  taken  prison- 
ers. But  the  more  vigorous  were  the  measures  adopted 
for  the  support  of  episcopacy,  the  more  the  Covenanters 
increased ;  the  preachers  openly  called  upon  the  people 
to  throw  off  their  allegiance ;  the  Archbishop  of  St. 
Andrew's  was  assassinated  in  his  carriage,  and  every 
prospect  of  conciliation  was  hopeless.  In  this  state  of 
excitement,  the  magistrates  of  the  city  took  still  further 
precautions  for  its  safety  ;  the  trained  bands  joined  the 
forces  of  the  crown,  and  dispatches  were  forwarded  to 
London  for  assistance.  The  Duke  of  Monmouth  was 
sent  to  Scotland  with  some  troops  of  cavalry,  and  was 
invested  with  the  chief  command  ;  and  a  battle  took 
place  at  Bothwell-Bridge,  in  which  700  of  the  Covenant- 


E  D  I  N 


ED  I  N 


ers  were  killed,  and  several  were  made  prisoners  and 
sent  to  Edinburgh,  where  two  of  the  most  seditious 
preachers  were  hanged. 

James,  afterwards  James  II.  of  England,  and  VII.  of 
Scotland,  while  Duke  of  York,  visited  Edinburgh,  where 
he  was  received  with  great  pomp  by  the  lord  provost 
and  town  council,  who  entertained  him  with  a  banquet 
in  the  parliament-house.  During  his  residence  here  he 
acquired  great  popularity ;  and  on  his  accession  to  the 
throne,  the  citizens  presented  a  loyal  address,  in  ac- 
knowledgment of  which  that  monarch  sent  them  a 
letter,  which  is  still  preserved  in  a  box  of  ebony,  of  rather 
curious  workmanship.  A  parliament  was  shortly  after 
held  in  Edinburgh,  which  acknowledged  his  supreme 
authority,  and  declared  that  the  whole  force  of  the 
country,  from  the  age  of  sixteen  to  sixty,  should  be  at 
his  disposal ;  but  the  open  encouragement  given  to  the 
celebration  of  the  mass  soon  excited  a  tumult,  in  the 
quelling  of  which  the  king's  guards  were  brought  from 
the  castle,  and,  firing  upon  the  mob,  killed  two  men  and 
a  woman.  Several  of  the  most  active  of  the  insurgents 
were  afterwards  hanged  at  the  Cross  ;  and  so  great  was 
the  zeal  for  the  re-establishment  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
faith,  that  a  Popish  college  in  the  palace  of  Holyrood 
House  printed  and  circulated  hand-bills  inviting  all 
persons  to  send  their  children  to  be  educated  in  the 
principles  of  that  religion  gratuitously. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  intelligence  of  the  lauding  of  the 
Prince  of  Orange,  however,  the  regular  troops  were 
withdrawn  for  the  reinforcement  of  the  king's  army,  and 
the  Presbyterians  flocked  to  Edinburgh  in  great  num- 
bers. The  greatest  severities  were  exercised  against  the 
Papists,  Episcopalians,  and  the  adherents  of  the  exiled 
monarch ;  the  Earl  of  Perth,  who  was  chancellor,  aban- 
doned the  country,  and  the  government  fell  entirely 
into  the  hands  of  the  friends  of  the  Revolution.  A  mob 
assembled  in  the  city  ;  the  drums  beat  to  arms,  and  the 
inhabitants  proceeded  to  demolish  the  royal  chapel  in 
Holyrood  House,  but  were  opposed  by  a  party  of  100 
men,  who  still  adhered  to  James,  and  who,  by  firing 
upon  them,  put  the  party  to  flight.  They  soon  returned, 
however,  in  greater  numbers,  headed  by  the  magistrates, 
who  had  obtained  a  warrant  from  the  privy  council, 
and  accompanied  by  the  trained  bands  and  herald-at- 
arms ;  and  summoned  the  followers  of  James  to  sur- 
render. After  having  defeated  their  opponents  with 
considerable  loss,  they  proceeded  to  the  abbey  church 
and  the  royal  chapel,  which  they  stripped  of  all  their 
ornaments;  nearly  demolished  the  college  of  the  Jesuits; 
and  plundered  the  houses  of  many  of  the  Roman  Catho- 
lics. The  town  council  tendered  their  services  to  the 
Prince  of  Orange;  and  the  Marquess  of  Atholl,  who, 
after  the  flight  of  the  chancellor,  had  assumed  the  reins 
of  government,  held  a  convention  of  the  states  at  Edin- 
burgh, and  transferred  their  allegiance  to  the  govern- 
ment of  William  and  Mary  ;  appointed  a  new  election 
of  the  city  magistrates  and  council,  by  poll  of  the  bur- 
gesses, in  St.  Giles'  church ;  ejected  several  ministers 
who  refused  to  pray  for  the  new  sovereigns,  and  finally 
re-established  the  Presbyterian  form  of  worship.  The 
Duke  of  Hamilton  and  other  friends  of  the  Revolution 
quartered  several  companies  of  infantry  in  the  city;  but 
the  castle  was  still  retained  for  James  by  its  governor, 
the  Duke  of  Gordon,  and  the  Lords  Balcarras  and 
Dundee  also  stood  firm  to  the  interests  of  the  exiled 
368 


monarch.  The  castle,  however,  being  but  ill  supplied 
with  provisions,  was  soon  compelled  to  surrender  ;  and 
the  adherents  of  the  Roman  Catholic  party  were  confined 
in  the  Tolbooth,  where  several  of  them  were  detained 
for  two  or  three  years,  and  subjected  to  the  severest 
privations. 

In  1695,  a  company  for  trading  to  Africa  and  the 
East  Indies  was  incorporated  by  act  of  parliament,  with 
very  considerable  privileges  ;  a  capital  of  £400,000  was 
quickly  raised,  and  in  the  following  year  six  ships  of 
large  burthen  sailed  from  the  Firth  of  Forth.  The  in- 
telligence of  their  having  effected  a  settlement  on  the 
Isthmus  of  Darien  arrived  on  the  25th  of  March,  1699, 
and  the  event  was  celebrated  by  public  rejoicings,  and 
by  thanksgivings  in  the  several  churches  of  the  city; 
but  the  sanguine  hopes  thus  excited  were  not  of  long 
continuance.  The  colonists,  after  one  or  two  fruitless 
attempts  by  the  Spaniards,  were  ultimately  driven  from 
the  settlement  in  1700;  and  on  the  news  of  this,  the 
citizens  were  so  much  excited  by  rage  and  disappoint- 
ment that  they  broke  out  into  the  most  wanton  excesses, 
and,  imputing  their  failure  to  the  jealousy  of  the  Eng- 
lish merchants,  proceeded  to  such  acts  of  tumult  and 
outrage  that  the  commissioners  and  officers  of  state 
found  it  prudent  to  retire  from  the  city  lest  they  should 
fall  victims  to  the  popular  fury. 

Events  of  the  Eighteenth  Century. 

On  the  accession  of  Queen  Anne,  the  citizens  were 
still  more  exasperated  by  the  seizure  of  one  of  the  ships 
belonging  to  the  African  Company,  which  had  been 
taken  in  the  river  Thames  ;  and  upon  their  solicitation 
to  the  English  ministry  for  its  restoration  being  dis- 
regarded, they  seized,  by  way  of  reprisal,  a  ship  belong- 
ing to  the  English  East  India  Company,  which  had 
anchored  in  the  Forth.  Captain  Green,  the  commander, 
and  part  of  the  crew,  were  accused  of  piracy;  and  being, 
upon  slight  evidence,  convicted  of  having  plundered  a 
Scottish  vessel  in  the  Indies,  they  were  sentenced  to 
be  hanged.  On  the  day  fixed  for  their  execution,  the 
populace  surrounded  the  prison,  and  the  parliament- 
house,  in  which  the  privy  council,  assisted  by  the  ma- 
gistrates, were  deliberating  about  the  expediency  of 
extending  the  royal  mercy  to  the  captain  and  his  men. 
The  lord  chancellor,  on  his  way  from  the  council  to  his 
house,  was  dragged  from  his  carriage  by  the  populace, 
and  was  only  rescued  by  the  timely  interposition  of  his 
friends ;  and  so  highly  were  the  people  incensed  at  the 
idea  of  a  reprieve,  that  it  was  found  necessary  to  execute 
the  prisoners  without  delay.  On  the  promulgation  of 
the  articles  of  the  Union  of  the  two  kingdoms  in  1707, 
the  mob  attacked  the  parliament-house,  insulted  the 
Duke  of  Queensberry,  the  chief  commissioner,  and  gave 
vent  to  the  most  violent  indignation.  They  beset  the 
house  of  the  lord  provost,  Johnston,  a  friend  to  the 
union,  who  narrowly  escaped  their  fury ;  and  so  greatly 
did  the  numbers  of  the  mob  increase,  that,  before  night, 
they  made  themselves  entire  masters  of  the  city.  Their 
first  purpose  was  to  blockade  the  gates,  to  prevent  which 
the  commissioners  ordered  a  party  of  soldiers  to  take 
possession  of  the  Netherbow,  and  afterwards,  with  the 
concurrence  of  the  provost,  stationed  a  battalion  of 
guards  in  the  Parliament-square.  Such,  indeed,  was 
the  opposition  to  the  union  that  all  the  military  of  the 


EDIN 


E  D  I  N 


surrounding  districts  were  concentrated  at  Edinburgh, 
and  three  regiments  of  infantry  were  constantly  on  duty 
in  the  city ;  but  the  Articles  were  at  length  agreed 
upon,  and  ultimately  signed  by  the  contracting  parties, 
in  an  obscure  cellar  under  a  house  in  the  High-street, 
opposite  the  Tron  church,  long  after  occupied  as  a 
tavern  and  coach-ofiice.  The  Duke  of  Queensberry  re- 
turned, with  the  document  thus  reluctantly  obtained, 
to  London  ;  and  several  of  its  chief  supporters  quitted 
the  city,  deeming  it  unsafe  to  remain.  The  ancient 
regalia  of  the  kingdom  \vere,  on  the  completion  of  the 
act  of  union,  deposited  in  the  crown-room  in  the  castle, 
on  the  26th  of  March,  1*07  ;  but  it  was  for  a  long  time 
generally  supposed  that  they  had  been  conveyed  to 
London,  and  deposited  in  the  Tower ;  and  this  opinion 
was  the  more  confirmed  by  the  exhibition  of  a  crown 
which  the  keeper  of  the  jewel-office  there  invariably  de- 
scribed as  the  royal  crown  of  Scotland. 

The  discontents  of  the  people  induced  the  Pretender 
to  make  an  effort  to  regain  the  throne,  and  a  French 
fleet  soon  after  appeared  in  the  Firth  of  Forth  for  the 
invasion  of  Scotland.  The  Earl  of  Leven,  at  that  time 
commander  of  the  forces,  conveyed  information  of  the 
event  to  the  provost  of  Edinburgh,  who,  with  the  ma- 
gistrates and  the  several  incorporations,  manifested  their 
loyalty  to  the  existing  dynasty  by  raising  a  body  of 
1200  men  to  serve  under  the  earl.  But  their  services 
were  rendered  unnecessary  by  the  vigilance  and  activity 
of  Sir  George  Byng,  who,  pursuing  the  fleet,  drove  them 
from  the  coast,  and  freed  the  country  from  the  danger 
with  which  it  had  been  threatened ;  and  the  magistrates 
testified  their  gratitude  for  this  important  service  by 
presenting  Sir  George  and  the  principal  officers  with 
the  freedom  of  the  city.  On  the  breaking  out  of  the 
rebellion  in  1715,  the  council  provided  for  the  security 
of  Edinburgh  by  repairing  and  fortifying  the  walls  and 
gates,  augmenting  the  town-guard,  arming  the  trained 
bands,  raising  a  body  of  400  men,  well  equipped,  to  be 
maintained  at  the  city's  expense,  and  by  fitting  out 
several  vessels  to  assist  the  king's  ships.  The  forces  of 
the  Earl  of  Mar  made  an  attempt  to  surprise  the  castle, 
in  which  they  were  frustrated  by  the  vigilance  of  the 
garrison;  and  about  1500  of  the  rebel  army,  under 
Brigadier  Me  Intosh,  contrived  to  cross  the  Forth,  and 
land  in  East  Lothian,  whence  they  marched  to  Edin- 
burgh ;  but  the  city  was  too  well  guarded  to  afford 
them  any  hope  of  entering  it,  and  they  therefore  re- 
moved to  Leith,  and  took  possession  of  the  citadel, 
which  they  fortified.  The  Duke  of  Argyll  advanced 
with  his  forces  to  dislodge  them,  but,  being  unprovided 
with  artillery,  withdrew,  threatening  to  return  with  a 
reinforcement :  during  his  absence,  however,  the}'  eva- 
cuated Leith ;  and,  6000  troops  arriving  from  Holland 
to  the  assistance  of  the  government,  the  rebellion  lan- 
guished, and  tranquillity  was  soon  restored.  In  17-5, 
a  destructive  fire  occurred  in  the  Lawnmarket,  which 
burned  with  so  much  rapidity  that  many  houses  in  the 
city,  with  all  their  effects,  were  destroyed ;  a  subscrip- 
tion was  opened  for  the  relief  of  the  sufferers,  and 
nearly  £1000  were  obtained.  About  this  time,  in  con- 
sideration of  the  arduous  duties  devolving  on  the  pro- 
vost, an  addition  of  £300  per  annum  was  voted  for  de- 
fraying his  expenses. 

In   1J36,  the  execution  of  a  smuggler  in  the  Grass- 
market  excited  a  tumult,  on  which  occasion  Porteotjs, 
Vol.  I.— 369 


captain  of  the   guard,  ordered  his  men  to  fire  on  the 
populace,  when  six  men  were  killed,  and  eleven  wounded. 
For  this  act,  Porteous  was  prosecuted,  and  convicted  of 
murder  by  the  unanimous  verdict  of  the  jury  ;  but  Queen 
Caroline,  acting  as  regent  in  the  absence   of  George  I. 
in  Hanover,  granted  him  a  reprieve,  which  so  exasper- 
ated the  people   that  they  assembled  in  great  numbers 
on  the  night  previous  to  the  execution,  surprised  and 
disarmed    the  town-guard,    blockaded  the   gates  of  the 
city  to  prevent  the    entrance    of   troops    quartered   in 
the  suburbs,  and  proceeded  to  the  prison,  liberating  all 
the  prisoners  with  the  exception  of  Porteous.     Him  they 
led  to  the  Grassmarket  by  torch-light ;  and  after  allow- 
ing an   acquaintance  to  receive  what  property  he  had, 
they  conducted  him  to  the  spot  where  the  six  men  had 
been  killed,  reproached  him  with  his  inhuman  conduct, 
hanged  him,  and  then  dispersed  without  committing  any 
further  outrage.     To  punish  this  insult  to  the  govern- 
ment,  the  lord  provost   was  committed  to  prison,  and, 
after  three   weeks'  confinement,  admitted  to  bail,  and 
ordered  to  appear,  with  four  of  the  bailies,  at  the  bar  of 
the  house  of  lords,  in  London,  where  three  of  the  lords 
justiciary  were  also  commanded  to  attend.     A  bill  was 
brought  in  for  disqualifying  the  provost  from  holding 
any  office  of  magistracy  in  the  city   of  Edinburgh   or 
any  other  part  of  Great  Britain,  and  for  confining  him 
in  close  custody  for  one  year,  for  abolishing  the  town- 
guard,  and  taking  down  the  gates  of  the  Netherbow.    All 
these  enactments,  however,  were  afterwards  commuted 
for  a  fine  of  £2000  to  be  paid  by  the  city  to  the  widow  of 
Captain  Porteous.     In  the  year  1740,  there  was  a  great 
dearth  of  provisions  in  Edinburgh  and  the  vicinity,  and 
the  magistrates  had  recourse  to  every  expedient   for  the 
relief  of  the  prevailing  distress  ;  large  public  and  private 
contributions  were  raised ;  the  banks  volunteered  loans 
of  money  without  interest  to  the   magistrates,   for  the 
purchase  of  supplies,  which  were  sold  at  moderate  prices 
to  the  poorer  inhabitants,  and  by  these  means  the  cala- 
mity w7as  greatly  alleviated. 

Events  of   1745. 

In  1745,  the  council,  apprised  by  letter  from  one  of  the 
secretaries  of  state,  that  the  eldest  son  of  the  Pretender 
meditated  an  invasion  of  the  kingdom,  took  every  pre- 
caution to  meet  the  threatened  danger,  and  provide  for 
the  security  of  the  city.  The  town-guard  was  augmented 
to  126  men,  the  trained  bands  kept  in  constant  readi- 
ness to  act,  and  a  body  of  1000  men  was  raised  to  serve 
under  the  lord  provost  and  council ;  the  walls  were 
repaired,  and  the  fortifications  put  into  a  proper  state  of 
defence ;  and  the  banks  and  public  offices  sent  their 
cash  and  valuable  property  to  the  castle.  The  king's 
forces,  however,  who,  with  the  town-guard,  were  posted 
at  Corstorphine,  fled  precipitately  on  the  approach  of  the 
Pretender's  army,  which  had  crossed  the  Forth  a  little 
above  Stirling.  The  town-guard  retreated  into  Edin- 
burgh, and  the  citizens  assembled  in  the  New  Church  to 
deliberate  upon  the  expediency  of  holding  out,  when  it 
was  resolved  to  capitulate  on  the  best  terms  that  could 
be  obtained.  But  while  appointing  deputies  to  treat  for 
this  purpose,  a  letter  was  handed  to  the  lord  provost 
and  magistrates,  sigued  "  Charles,  Prince  of  Wales," 
setting  forth  that  "  the  prince  was  now  ready  to  enter 
with  his  army  into  the  metropolis  of  his  ancient  king- 

3  B 


ED  I  N 


ED  I  N 


dom,"  and  upon  this  the  meeting  broke  up  in  the  great- 
est confusion.  Early  the  next  morning,  a  coach  was 
seen  driving  through  the  town  towards  the  Netherbow 
gate,  which  the  sentinel,  suspecting  no  danger,  opened  to 
let  it  pass  ;  but  no  sooner  was  the  gate  opened  than  a 
party  of  Highlanders  that  had  reached  it  undiscovered 
rushed  into  the  town,  made  themselves  masters  of  the 
gates,  took  the  soldiers  on  duty  prisoners,  secured  the 
town-guard,  and  seized  the  arms  and  ammunition. 
About  noon,  the  Highland  army,  headed  by  the  Young- 
Pretender,  arrived  in  the  King's  park,  and  encamped 
at  Duddingston ;  the  prince  and  his  suite  took  posses- 
sion of  the  palace  of  Holyrood  House,  and  compelled  the 
heralds  of  the  town  to  publish  at  the  Cross  a  declaration 
proclaiming  a  regency,  and  a  manifesto  promising  to  the 
citizens  the  free  exercise  of  the  Protestant  religion,  and 
the  unrestrained  enjoyment  of  all  their  rights  and  privi- 
leges. The  inhabitants  were  ordered  to  deliver  up  their 
arms  at  the  palace ;  the  soldiers  and  others  of  the  High- 
land army  were  strictly  prohibited  from  molesting  the 
citizens,  or  pillaging  their  property,  on  pain  of  summary 
execution.  A  message  was  sent  to  the  magistrates,  re- 
quiring them  to  furnish  a  supply  of  stores,  for  which 
payment  was  promised  on  the  restoration  and  settlement 
of  the  public  affairs ;  and  an  assessment  of  two  shillings 
and  sixpence  in  the  pound  was  made  for  that  purpose 
on  the  rents  of  the  citizens. 

On  the  20th  of  September,  the  Young  Pretender  and 
his  army   marched  from  their  camp    at  Duddingston, 
in  pursuit  of  the  royal  troops,  which  consisted  of  3000 
infantry,  with  some   dragoons  and  aitillery,   encamped 
near  Prestonpans  ;   and  early  on  the  following  morning, 
an  engagement  took  place,  which  ended  in  the  total  de- 
feat of  the  royal  army,   with  the  loss  of  their  artillery, 
baggage,  and  military  chest,  with  which  the  prince  re- 
turned triumphantly   to    Edinburgh.      The    conquerors 
conducted  themselves  with  the  greatest  moderation ;  their 
prisoners  were  liberated  on  parole,   and  the  clergy  or- 
dered to   continue  their  sacred  functions   as  formerly, 
but  they  all  declined,  with  the  exception  of  the  minister 
of  the  West,  and  the  lecturer  of  the  Tron,  kirk,  who  con- 
tinued to  pray  for  the  king  byname  without  molestation. 
The  military  abstained  from  plunder,  and  during  their 
stay  in  the  city  conducted  themselves  with  order  and 
regularity.     The    castle    was    still   unassailed,   and   the 
garrison  had  hitherto  avoided  all  interference  with  the 
invaders  ;  but  on  some  alarm,  a  few  shots  were  discharged 
on  the  Highlanders  who   defended  the  west  gate  of  the 
city,  and  on  the  following  day  orders  were  issued  to  the 
guard  to  cut  off  all  intercourse  between  the  city  and  the 
castle.     Upon  this  the  governor,  fearing  a  want  of  pro- 
visions, sent  a  letter  to  the  lord  provost,  stating  that, 
unless  free  intercourse  were  permitted,  he  should  be  com- 
pelled to  dislodge  the  Highland  guard ;    and  the  magis- 
trates thereupon  sending  a  deputation  to  the  Pretender, 
a  truce  for  a  short  time  was  concluded.     A  few  days 
afterwards  the  sentinels  of  the  West  fort,  firing  upon  a 
party  who  were   carrying  provisions  to   the  castle,  the 
garrison  commenced  a  severe   cannonade  on  the  city. 
Many  of  the  houses  were  greatly  damaged,  and  some  set 
on  fire ;  the  streets  were    scoured  with  cartridge-shot 
discharged  from  the  cannon  on  the  lower  hill,  and  seve- 
ral of  the  inhabitants  were  killed ;  but  on  the  next  day, 
the   Pretender  issued  a  proclamation  withdrawing   the 
blockade  of  the  castle,  and  all  further  hostilities  ceased. 
370 


Upon  the  31st  of  October,  the  prince  marched  for 
England  with  6000  men,  and  besieged  Carlisle,  which  he 
took  by  storm  ;  but,  meeting  with  little  support  from  his 
adherents  in  England,  and  impeded  by  the  vigilance  of 
the  royal  army,  he  retreated  to  Scotland,  and  having  gain- 
ed some  advantage  at  Falkirk,  returned  to  Edinburgh, 
and  made  an  attempt  to  reduce  the  castle,  in  which  he 
failed.  The  forces  under  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  beino- 
now  in  pursuit  of  the  rebels,  they  retreated  with  precipi- 
tation towards  the  north ;  but  the  duke  having  secured 
the  passes  at  Perth  and  Stirling,  and  intercepted  a  ves- 
sel from  France,  which  had  been  sent  with  supplies,  the 
Pretender's  army  was  overtaken  on  the  plains  of  Culloden. 
Here,  after  a  severe  battle,  in  which  above  "2000  were  left 
dead  on  the  field,  the  rebellion  was  totally  extinguished; 
and  the  prince,  after  numerous  adventures,  in  which 
his  life  was  in  the  power  of  numbers,  whom  the  reward  of 
£30,000  for  his  apprehension  could  not  prompt  to  betray 
him,  escaped  in  safety  to  the  continent.  Fourteen  of 
the  standards  borne  by  the  rebel  army  were  conveyed  to 
Edinburgh,  and  burnt  at  the  Cross  with  every  mark  of 
ignominious  contempt ;  and  Archibald  Stewart,  Esq., 
the  lord  provost,  was  now  brought  to  trial  in  London 
for  neglect  in  not  taking  due  precautions  for  the  defence 
of  the  city,  but,  after  a  long  investigation,  was  acquitted. 
The  city  was  for  some  time  without  any  settled  govern- 
ment, and  the  citizens  petitioned  the  king  for  a  restitu- 
tion of  their  rights,  which  he  granted  by  issuing  an  order 
for  the  election  of  their  magistrates  according  to  their 
wonted  usage.  The  new  magistrates  and  council  pre- 
sented an  address  of  congratulation  to  the  king  on  the 
suppression  of  the  rebellion,  and  ordered  the  freedom  of 
Edinburgh  to  be  presented  to  the  Duke  of  Cumberland 
in  a  box  of  gold  ;  they  offered  to  raise  a  body  of  1000 
men  for  the  support  of  the  government,  and  after  the 
restoration  of  tranquillity  paid  great  attention  to  the  ex- 
tension and  improvement  of  the  city,  by  commencing  the 
erection  of  the  New  Town. 

During  the  reign  of  George  III.,  the  peace  was  fre- 
quently interrupted  :  in  1779,  a  violent  tumult  was  ex- 
cited by  the  enemies  of  popery  ;  the  houses  of  many  of 
the  Roman  Catholics  were  destroyed,  and  numerous 
outrages  committed.  For  some  years,  the  magistrates 
maintained  a  force  of  five  regiments  of  cavalry,  two 
companies  of  volunteer  artillery,  and  a  company  of 
spearmen,  for  preserving  order.  In  the  progress  of  the 
French  Revolution,  a  numerous  party  of  republicans 
calling  themselves  Friends  of  the  People,  and  a  body 
styled  the  National  Convention,  assembled  in  the  city, 
and  held  regular  meetings,  though  occasionally  dispersed 
by  the  government  authorities  ;  and  on  the  31st  of 
December,  1811,  a  large  concourse  of  the  most  noto- 
rious and  lawless  characters,  armed  with  bludgeons, 
during  the  whole  of  that  night  committed  the  most 
desperate  outrages.  Several  of  the  police  were  wounded, 
and  one  man  killed  ;  but  the  riot  was  ultimately  quelled, 
and  three  of  the  rioters  were  hanged  on  a  gallows  raised 
in  the  High-street.  Almost  all  those  concerned  in  this 
outbreak  were  young  men,  chiefly  under  twenty  years  of 
age  ;  and  the  alarm  created  by  their  proceedings  led  to 
several  beneficial  plans  for  the  better  education  of  the 
young.  In  1815,  the  victory  of  Waterloo  was  cele- 
brated here  with  the  most  triumphant  rejoicings,  and  a 
resolution  was  passed  for  the  erection  of  a  monument 
on  the  Calton  hill  in  commemoration  of  the  event. 


ED  I  N 


E  D  I  N 


Visits  of  George  IV.  and  Her  present  Majesty. 

In  1S22,  His  Majesty  George  IV.  paid  a  visit  to  the 
city,  on  which  occasion  the  influx  of  strangers  from  all 
quarters  of  the  country,  and  of  all  ranks,  was  immense. 
In  addition  to  the  several  regiments  of  the  Scots  Greys, 
the  dragoon  guards,  and  other  troops  of  the  line,  yeo- 
manry cavalry  and  many  parties  of  Highlanders  in 
their  costume  were  sent  by  the  chiefs  of  the  various 
clans,  among  which  that  of  Sutherland  was  the  most 
conspicuous,  to  grace  the  triumphal  entry  of  the  sove- 
reign. The  slopes  of  Salisbury  Crags,  in  the  King's 
Park,  and  the  north  acclivities  of  the  Castle  hill,  were 
covered  with  military  tents  and  marquees  for  their  tem- 
porary accommodation  ;  and  on  the  front  of  the  Crags 
were  planted  several  pieces  of  cannon.  The  king,  who 
arrived  in  the  Leith  roads  on  the  14th  of  August, 
landed  on  the  following  day,  and  made  his  entrance  into 
Edinburgh,  escorted  by  a  splendid  retinue.  He  ad- 
vanced from  the  harbour,  aloug  Leith-walk  and  the 
Terrace-road  on  Calton  hill,  to  the  palace  of  Holyrood 
House,  to  which  a  new  and  more  commodious  approach 
had  been  opened  for  the  occasion  ;  and  during  the  pro- 
cession His  Majesty  frequently  expressed  his  admira- 
tion of  the  noble  streets  and  buildings  of  the  city, 
and  the  romantic  scenery  in  the  vicinity.  After  re- 
maining for  some  time  at  Holyrood  House,  the  king 
proceeded  to  the  palace  of  Dalkeith,  the  seat  of  the 
Duke  of  Buccleuch,  where  he  resided  during  the  rest  of 
his  stay  in  Scotland.  In  the  evening  the  city  was  bril- 
liantly illuminated,  and  salutes  from  the  castle,  Salis- 
bury Crags,  the  numerous  shipping  in  the  roads,  the 
fort  of  Leith,  and  the  various  regiments,  were  fired  in 
honour  of  the  royal  visit ;  bonfires  were  lighted  on 
Arthur's  Seat  and  other  eminences,  and  every  demon- 
stration of  an  ardent  and  joyful  welcome  was  testified. 

Upon  the  17th,  the  king  held  a  levee  in  Holyrood 
House,  which  was  attended  hy  a  numerous  assemblage 
of  the  nobility  and  gentry,  naval  and  military  officers, 
and  the  public  functionaries.  On  the  19th  there  was 
another  levee,  at  which  he  received  the  addresses  of  the 
General  Assembly,  the  Scottish  Episcopal  Church,  the 
Universities,  and  the  Highland  Society ;  and  on  the 
20th,  the  king  held  a  drawing-room,  which  was  graced 
by  the  presence  of  five  hundred  ladies  of  the  first  rank 
in  the  country.  His  Majesty,  on  the  22nd,  went  in 
state  from  the  palace,  through  the  Canongate  and  High- 
street,  to  the  castle,  and  on  the  next  day  reviewed 
about  3000  of  the  yeomanry  cavalry  on  the  Portobello 
sands,  after  which  he  was  present  at  a  grand  ball  in  the 
assembly-rooms  in  George-street,  attended  by  all  the 
peers  of  Scotland.  A  banquet  was  given  by  the  civic 
authorities  in  the  parliament-house,  on  Saturday,  the 
24th,  on  which  occasion  the  king  conferred  upon  Wil- 
liam Arbuthnot,  Esq.,  the  lord  provost,  the  honour  of  a 
baronetcy  ;  and  on  the  morning  of  Sunday  he  attended 
divine  service  in  the  High  Church,  when  the  sermon 
was  preached  by  Dr.  Lamont,  moderator  of  the  General 
Assembly.  On  the  26th  His  Majesty  appeared  at  a 
ball  given  in  the  assembly-rooms  by  the  members  of 
the  Caledonian  Hunt.  Upon  the  following  day  he 
authorised  the  laying  of  the  first  stone  of  the  national 
monument  by  the  Duke  of  Hamilton,  grand  master 
mason  of  Scotland ;  and  in  the  evening  visited  the 
theatre.  On  the  same  evening  there  was  a  ball  in  honour 
371 


of  the  royal  visit,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Duchesses  of 
Atholl  and  Montrose  and  other  ladies  of  rank.  On  Wed- 
nesday, the  king  paid  a  visit  to  the  Marquess  of  Lothian 
at  Newbattle  Abbey  ;  and  on  Thursday,  the  29th,  after 
a  short  visit  to  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun  at  his  seat,  Hope- 
toun  House,  he  embarked  at  Port-Edgar,  on  his  return 
to  England,  impressed  with  a  deep  sense  of  the  cordial 
hospitality  and  fervid  loyalty  of  his  Scottish  subjects. 

In  the  year  1S24,  a  destructive  fire  broke  out  in  the 
city,  which  continued  to  rage  with  unabated  fury, 
threatening  the  neighbourhood  with  desolation,  and 
filling  the  inhabitants  with  consternation  and  dismay  ; 
but,  after  doing  very  considerable  damage,  it  was  sub- 
dued. 

In  1842,  the  city  was  visited  by  Her  present  Majesty, 
accompanied  by  Prince  Albert  and  a  distinguished  suite. 
The  royal  party  arrived  in  the  Firth  of  Forth  on  the 
night  of  Wednesday,  the  31st  of  August,  and  the  course 
of  the  vessels  bearing  the  royal  visiters  was  facilitated 
by  the  streams  of  light  issuing  from  the  numerous  bon- 
fires on  the  adjacent  hills,  the  effect  of  which  was  mag- 
nificent in  the  extreme.  On  the  following  morning  Her 
Majesty  landed,  and  proceeded  to  Dalkeith,  the  splendid 
seat  of  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch ;  on  Friday  night,  the 
city  was  illuminated  in  honour  of  the  royal  visit ;  and 
on  Saturday  morning,  September  3rd,  Her  Majesty 
made  her  formal  entry  into  Edinburgh,  amid  the  enthu- 
siastic acclamations  of  an  immense  multitude.  The 
various  public  bodies  of  the  city  were  arranged  on  the 
occasion,  to  do  honour  to  the  Queen  ;  and  in  front  of 
the  Royal  Exchange,  the  lord  provost,  attended  by  the 
magistrates  and  other  authorities,  presented  the  keys  of 
the  city  to  Her  Majesty,  who  immediately  returned  them, 
and  proceeded  to  the  castle,  where  the  royal  party  re- 
mained for  a  short  time.  Her  Majesty  then  passed 
clown  Princes-street,  and  shortly  afterwards  quitted  the 
city  for  Dalmeny,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Rosebery, 
from  which  she  returned  in  the  afternoon,  through 
Leith,  to  Dalkeith.  On  Monday,  the  5th,  the  Queen 
held  her  court  at  Dalkeith ;  and  on  the  following  day 
set  out  for  the  Highlands,  where  she  continued  on  a 
tour  till  Tuesday,  the  13th,  on  the  afternoon  of  which 
she  reached  Dalkeith  :  on  Thursday  morning,  September 
15th,  Her  Majesty,  Prince  Albert,  and  suite,  left  for 
England,  by  sea. 

Description  of  the  City. 

The  city  of  Edinburgh  is  built  on  a  series  of  hills 
rising  abruptly  from  a  level  tract  of  land  in  the  northern 
portion  of  the  county,  about  two  miles  from  the  Firth 
of  Forth.  The  ground  ascends  gradually  from  the 
Firth  for  nearly  a  mile  towards  the  south,  attaining  at 
the  plain  whereon  the  palace  of  Holyrood  House  is  situ- 
ated, an  elevation  of  about  ninety-four  feet  above  the 
level  of  high-water  mark.  From  this  plain,  the  hill  on 
which  the  Old  Town  is  built,  and  which,  with  reference  to 
the  others,  may  be  called  the  central  hill,  rises  in  the 
form  of  a  flat  ridge,  increasing  by  degrees  in  width  for 
almost  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  and  terminating  on  the 
west  in  a  precipitous  rock  on  whose  summit  stands  the 
castle,  elevated  about  ISO  feet  above  the  plain  of  Holy- 
rood  on  the  east,  and  274  feet  above,  the  level  of  the 
Firth. 

The  Old  Town,  which  owed  its  origin  to  the  castle, 

3  B  2 


E  D  I  N 


ED  I  N 


formerly  extended  but  a  short  distance  from  that  for- 
tress,  and  ended  at    the  Netherbow  port,   one  of  the 
gates   of  the  ancient   city,    now  taken    down ;    it   con- 
sisted only  of  the  main  street   on  the  summit  of  the 
ridge,  and  of  several  wynds  and  closes  stretching  down 
the    steep    declivities    on  both   sides.      The   buildings, 
however,    were    subsequently    continued    towards   the 
east  ;     and  the   High-street  at  present  forms  a  conti- 
nuous line  of  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  including  the 
Castle-walk   leading  from   the  Castle   hill,    the  Lawn- 
market,  and  the  Canongate,  the  whole  extending  from 
the  castle  on  the  west  to  the  palace  of  Holyrood  on  the 
east,    and    containing    numerous   lofty    and    well-built 
houses,  of  which  many  are  of  ancient  character  and  of 
handsome  appearance.     Nearly  parallel  with  the  High- 
street,  on  the  north,  are,   the  street  called  the  North- 
Back  of  the  Canongate,  and  also  ths   Calton,  commu- 
nicating with  the  road  to   Leith  ;   and  on  the  south  is  a 
line  of  nearly  equal  length  with  the  High-street,  reach- 
ing from  the  suburb  of  Portsburgh  on  the   west,  and 
including  the  Grassmarket,  the  Cowgate,  and  the  South- 
Back  of  the  Canongate.     These   streets  are  intersected 
by  the  Pleasance,  continued  through   St.  Mary's-wynd 
and  Leith-wynd  ;   Bridge-street,  leading  along  the  north 
and  south  bridges,  and  uniting  the  southern  districts 
with  the  Old  and  New  Town  ;   and  St.  John's-street.     To 
the  west  of  Bridge-street  are,  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Cross  now    removed,  and  the   Parliament-square,  con- 
taining several  stately  edifices.     The  southern  declivities 
of  the  ridge  occupied  by  the  main  street  terminate  in  a 
level  tract  of  inconsiderable  breadth,  on  which  the  Cow- 
gate  is  situated  ;    and  beyond  this  the  ground  rises  gra- 
dually, and  expands  into  a  wide  open  plain.     The  north- 
ern  declivities  of  the  ridge  are  much  more  abrupt,  and 
terminate    in   some   flat   ground   of  moderate    breadth, 
which,  being  formerly  covered  with  water,  was  called  the 
North  Loch,  but  which  is  now  about  to  form  a  site  for 
the  termini  of  three  great  railways  :  beyond  this  the  sur- 
face rises,  by  a  gradual  ascent,  to  the  flat  hill  on  which 
the  New  Town  is  built. 

The  extension  of  the  town  on  the  north  side  of  the 
loch  was  projected  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II. ;  but  no 
efforts  were  made  to  that  effect  till  the  year  1751,  when 
the  fall  of  an  old  house,  and  the  dangerous  condition  of 
many  others  in  the  town,  led  to  the  draining  of  the  lake 
and  the  foundation  of  a  bridge,  of  which  the  first  stone 
was  laid  by  Provost  Drummond  on  the  21st  of  October, 
1763.  The  bridge,  which  was  erected  under  the  super- 
intendence of  Mr.  Who.  Mylne,  brother  of  the  architect 
of  Blackfriars  bridge,  London,  was  scarcely  completed, 
in  1769,  when  the  southern  arch  and  side  walls  gave  way, 
and  several  persons  were  killed  ;  it  was,  however,  finished 
in  1772,  at  an  expense  of  £18,000,  and  is  a  handsome 
structure  of  three  noble  arches,  each  seventy-two  feet  in 
span,  and  sixty-eight  feet  high,  with  two  smaller  arches 
of  about  twenty  feet  span,  at  either  end,  and  numerous 
others  that  are  inclosed  and  occupied  as  warehouses  and 
vaults. 

The  New  Town,  which  is  connected  with  the  Old  by 
this  bridge,  called  the  North  bridge,  and  also  by  a  large 
mound  of  earth  to  the  west,  formed  across  the  valley, 
and  of  which  the  acclivities  are  embellished  with  plan- 
tations, consists  principally  of  three  spacious  parallel 
streets.  Of  these,  Princes-street,  on  the  south,  forms 
a  magnificent  terrace  of  fine  houses  with  pleasure- 
372 


grounds  in  front,  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  and  commu- 
nicates with  the  new  London  road  on  the  east ;  George- 
street,  to  the  north,  extends  from  Charlotte-square  on 
the  west,  a  splendid  range  of  noble  houses,  to  St. 
Andrew's-square  on  the  east,  also  an  elegant  area,  sur- 
rounded by  handsome  buildings  ;  and  Queen-street, 
still  further  to  the  north,  the  third  of  these  spacious 
streets,  reaches  from  Albyn-place  on  the  west  to  York- 
place  on  the  east.  Between  Princes- street  and  George- 
street,  and  likewise  between  George-street  and  Queen  - 
street,  are  two  parallel  ranges  of  narrower  streets,  of 
•which  the  former  includes  West,  Middle,  and  East 
Rose  streets,  and  the  latter,  Young-street,  and  East 
and  West  Thistle  streets ;  and  intersecting  these,  at 
right  angles,  are  numerous  good  streets  from  north  to 
south,  of  which  the  principal  are  Charlotte,  Castle, 
Frederick,  Hanover,  St.  David's,  and  St.  Andrew's 
streets.  To  the  north  of  Queen-street,  but  separated 
from  it  to  the  west  by  a  wide  valley  agreeably  disposed 
in  pleasure-grounds  and  public  walks,  are,  Heriot-row, 
Abercromby-place,  Albany-street,  and  Forth-street,  the 
last  directly  communicating  with  Union-street  lead- 
ing to  Leith-walk.  Parallel  with  these,  northward,  are, 
Jamaica-street,  Northumberland-street,  and  Brough- 
ton-place  ;  beyond  are  Great  King-street,  Drummond- 
place,  and  London-street ;  and  parallel  with  these,  and 
still  further  to  the  north,  are  Cumberland-street  and 
Fettes-row.  To  the  west  of  this  part  of  the  New  Town 
is  the  Royal  Circus,  a  spacious  area  tastefully  laid  out, 
and  surrounded  with  elegant  houses  ;  to  the  east  are 
the  Royal-crescent  and  Bellevue-crescent ;  and  inter- 
secting the  ranges  of  parallel  streets  mentioned  in  the 
two  preceding  sentences,  at  right  angles,  are,  India- 
street,  St.  Vincent's-street,  and  Howe-street,  Pitt  and 
Dundas  streets,  Nelson-street  and  Duncan-street.  To 
the  east  of  the  last-named  are  Scotland,  Dublin,  and 
Duke  streets,  all  containing  well-built  houses. 

During  the  delay  which  occurred  in  the  formation  of 
the  New  Town,  a  very  considerable  district  on  the 
south  of  the  Old  was  erected  on  ground  which,  the 
magistrates  having  neglected  to  purchase  it,  was  bought 
by  Mr.  Brown,  an  enterprising  builder,  who  raised  some 
handsome  houses  called  Brown-square.  The  circum- 
stance of  these  being  soon  occupied  by  respectable 
families  led  to  the  erection  of  George-square,  on  a  more 
extensive  scale,  and  in  a  superior  elegance  of  style; 
several  fine  streets  were  afterwards  built,  and  also  addi- 
tional squares,  of  which  Argyll,  Adam's,  and  Nicholson 
squares  are  the  principal ;  many  new  lines  of  approach 
were  opened,  and  the  buildings  of  the  university  erected. 
This  important  district  was  subsequently  extended 
westward,  beyond  Heriot's  and  Watson's  hospitals,  to 
Lauriston,  and  southward  to  Newington ;  anil  a  large 
suburb  of  handsome  streets  and  elegant  villas  reaches 
towards  the  south-east,  almost  to  the  base  of  Salis- 
bury Crags,  a  remarkable  hill,  forming  an  exceedingly 
romantic  feature  in  the  scenery  of  Edinburgh,  and  sepa- 
rated from  Arthur's  Seat  by  a  deep  valley  called  the 
Hunter's  Bog.  The  want  of  a  more  direct,  line  of  com- 
munication with  the  Old  Town  was  soon  strongly  felt, 
and  for  this  purpose  the  South  bridge,  in  a  line  with 
the  North  bridge,  was  commenced  in  1785,  and  com- 
pleted in  17S9.  It  is  a  substantial  structure  of  twenty- 
two  arches  of  various  dimensions,  all  of  which  are 
concealed    by    houses,    except    one    over   the    Cowgate, 


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which  is  thirty  feet  in  span.,  and  thirty-six  in  height, 
defended  on  each  side  by  an  iron  palisade,  affording  a 
view  of  the  Cowgate  beneath  :  the  houses  on  this  bridge 
are  all  uniformly  built. 

Since  the  formation  of  the  New  Town,  very  exten- 
sive additions  have  been  made  to  the  city  in  all  direc- 
tions. On  the  north-west,  between  Charlotte-square 
and  the  Leith  water,  some  splendid  ranges  of  building 
have  been  erected  on  the  grounds  of  Drumseugh,  the 
property  of  the  Earl  of  Moray,  consisting  of  Moray- 
place,  a  spacious  octagon,  communicating  with  an  oval 
of  smaller  dimensions  on  the  west,  and  in  which  are 
mansions  in  the  first  style  of  elegance  ;  and  several 
squares,  streets,  and  places,  among  which  are,  Ainslie- 
place,  Randolph-crescent,  and  numerous  other  stately 
piles.  In  the  immediate  vicinity,  on  the  great  north 
road,  a  handsome  structure  called  the  Dean  Bridge  has 
been  erected  over  the  ravine  through  which  the  Leith 
water  flows,  connecting  the  western  extremity  of  the 
New  Town  with  the  parks  on  the  north  side  of  that  river. 
This  bridge,  a  massive  edifice  of  four  arches,  of  which 
the  two  central  are  of  stupendous  height,  was  com- 
pleted in  1832 ;  and  several  detached  mansions  have 
been  subsequent!}'  proposed  to  be  erected,  and  surrounded 
with  an  ample  demesne  of  pleasure-grounds  and  gar- 
dens. A  very  considerable  addition  to  the  New  Town 
was  made  about  the  same  time,  to  the  west  of  Princes- 
street,  on  the  lands  of  Coates,  the  property  of  Sir 
Patrick  Walker.  Some  fine  ranges  of  streets  were 
formed  in  the  park  here,  previously  the  seat  of  the 
Byres  family,  and  of  these  Melville-street,  almost  in  a 
line  with  George-street,  contains  some  very  stately 
buildings :  close  to  Melville-street,  on  the  Glasgow- 
road,  are  Atholl  and  Coates  crescents,  facing  each  other, 
with  shrubberies  in  front,  and  both  remarkable  for 
the  beauty  of  their  architecture  ;  also  Rutland- street 
and  Rutland-square,  to  the  south  of  which  are  hand- 
some streets  leading  to  Port-Hopetoun,  built  since  the 
construction  of  the  Union  canal. 

To  the  east  of  the  New  Town,  also,  many  important 
additions  have  been  made.  Picardy-place,  an  elegant 
pile  of  buildings,  has  been  erected,  to  the  north-east  of 
which  are  Gayfield-square  and  Greenside-place ;  and  a 
noble  line  of  approach  has  been  opened  from  the 
Calton  hill  by  the  removal  of  the  houses  of  Shakspeare- 
square,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  Princes-street,  and 
by  the  construction  of  the  Regent's  bridge.  This  is  a 
handsome  structure  of  one  arch,  fifty  feet  in  span  and 
fifty  feet  high,  completed  in  IS  19,  connecting  Princes- 
street  with  the  hill,  and  communicating  with  the  new 
London  road.  The  parapets  of  the  bridge  are  orna- 
mented with  niches  and  well-formed  pillars  connected 
with  the  houses  in  Waterloo-place,  a  fine  range  four 
stories  in  height,  on  the  south  side  of  which  are  the 
post-office  and  stamp-office,  both  handsome  buildings  ; 
and  an  elegant  hotel  has  been  built  by  a  proprietary 
of  shareholders,  at  an  expense  of  £30,000.  From 
Waterloo-place,  the  new  London  road  sweeps  round 
the  face  of  Calton  hill,  in  which  direction,  also,  nume- 
rous additions  to  the  city  have  been  made.  The  Leith- 
walk,  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  has  been  wholly 
paved,  and  forms  a  grand  line  of  approach,  having  on 
both  sides  detached  rows  of  well-built  houses  with  plea- 
sure-grounds in  front,  and  nurseries  and  plantations  in 
the   intervals  ;    and   on    the   east   of  Calton    hill,  and 


encircling  it  at  a  considerable  height  from  its  base, 
are,  Carlton-terrace,  the  Royal-terrace,  and  Regent- 
terrace,  superb  lines  of  houses,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  Firth  of  Forth,  the  coasts  of  Fife  and  Haddington, 
and  the  bay  of  Musselburgh.  At  some  distance  from 
Leith-walk,  towards  the  north-west,  is  Claremont-cres- 
cent,  in  front  of  which  are  the  Zoological  gardens  ;  and 
there  are  several  ranges  of  handsome  streets  in  the 
grounds  of  Hillside,  the  property  of  Mr.  Allan.  Addi- 
tional facilities  of  communication  with  the  Old  Town 
have  been  afforded  by  the  erection  of  George  IV.'s 
bridge  over  the  Cowgate  from  the  Lawnmarket  to 
Bristo-street,  a  well-built  structure  of  numerous  arches, 
of  which  three  only  are  left  open  ;  and  also  by  the 
construction  of  a  bridge  on  the  south  side  of  the 
castle,  by  the  commissioners  for  the  improvement  of 
the  city. 

In  conclusion  :  the  long  avenues  of  noble  streets  in- 
tersecting each  other  at  right  angles,  and  containing 
uniform  ranges  of  handsome  houses ;  the  numerous 
terraces,  places,  crescents,  and  squares  of  splendid 
mansions,  enlivened  with  gardens,  shrubberies,  and 
pleasure-grounds  in  the  very  centre  of  the  town  ;  the 
spacious  walks,  the  stateliness  of  the  public  buildings, 
the  imposing  aspect  of  the  ancient  castle,  the  palace, 
with  the  venerable  ruins  of  the  abbey  of  Holyrood  and 
parks  adjoining;  the  Zoological  gardens,  and  those  of 
the  Botanical  and  Horticultural  Societies  ;  the  monu- 
ments on  the  Calton  hill,  with  the  beautiful  line  of 
approach  from  the  town  ;  the  romantic  scenery  in  the 
immediate  vicinity,  Arthur's  Seat,  Salisbury  Crags,  the 
avenue  of  Leith-walk,  and  other  lines  of  communication 
with  the  different  suburbs,  and  a  vast  variety  of  other 
interesting  features  ;  all  these  contribute  to  impart  to 
the  city  an  air  of  impressive  grandeur  and  magnificence. 

The  environs  in  every  direction  abound  with  pic- 
turesque and  richly-diversified  scenery,  and  command 
extensive  prospects  over  a  wide  extent  of  country  em- 
bellished with  features  of  romantic  beauty  and  objects 
of  intense  interest.  Among  the  more  prominent  of  these 
are,  the  palace  and  grounds  of  Dalkeith,  the  seat  of  the 
Duke  of  Buccleuch  ;  Duddingston  House,  the  seat  of 
the  Marquess  of  Abercorn  ;  Hawthornden,  remarkable 
for  its  situation  on  a  precipitous  rock  overhanging  the 
North  Esk  ;  Roslin  Castle,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  St. 
Clairs,  earls  of  Orkney,  with  the  beautiful  ruins  of  the 
ancient  chapel,  one  of  the  richest  specimens  of  eccle- 
siastical architecture  extant ;  Corstorphine,  adorned  by 
its  luxuriant  woods  and  numerous  picturesque  villas  ; 
with  the  towns  of  Newhaven  and  Portobello,  favourite 
resorts  for  sea-bathing. 

The  Castle. 

The  castle  is  most  romantically  situated  at  the  western 
extremity  of  the  ridge  on  which  the  Old  Town  is  built, 
and,  with  its  several  buildings,  occupies  an  irregular 
area  of  about  seven  acres,  on  the  summit  of  a  rugged 
rock  rising  almost  perpendicularly  from  its  base  to  a 
height  of  more  than  300  feet,  and  inaccessible  on  all 
sides  except  the  east.  The  approach  from  the  town  is 
by  an  esplanade,  350  feet  in  length  and  300  feet  in 
breadth,  inclosed  on  both  sides  by  iron  palisades,  and 
forming  a  favourite  promenade;  on  the  north  side  is  a 
handsome  bronze  statue  of  the  Duke  of  York,  in  the 


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robes  of  the  order  of  the  garter,  placed  on  a  pedestal, 
and  holding  in  his  hand  a  field-marshal's  baton.  At 
the  west  end  of  the  esplanade,  a  draw-bridge  over  a 
wide  and  deep  fosse,  flanked  on  each  side  by  a  battery, 
leads  to  the  guard-house,  to  the  left  of  which  is  a  well 
for  supplying  the  garrison  with  water.  Beyond  this, 
the  path  conducts  round  the  north  side  of  the  rock, 
under  two  gateways,  of  which  one,  formerly  used  as  a 
state  prison,  is  defended  by  a  portcullis,  whence  a  long 
flight  of  steps  forms  an  ascent  to  the  Half-moon  battery 
and  the  more  ancient  parts  of  the  fortress.  The  Half- 
moon  battery  is  mounted  with  fourteen  eighteen- 
pounders,  commanding  the  town,  and  is  a  massive 
circular  tower,  above  the  battlements  of  which  the  royal 
standard  is  displayed  on  public  occasions.  The  Argyll 
battery,  mounting  ten  guns  of  twelve  and  eighteen- 
pounders,  from  which  salutes  are  generally  fired,  over- 
looks the  New  Town ;  and  on  the  acclivity  of  the  hill 
are  the  houses  of  the  governor,  fort-major,  and  store- 
master,  the  ordnance-office,  the  powder-magazine,  which 
is  bomb- proof,  the  grand  store-room,  and  the  arsenal, 
which  is  capable  of  containing  30,000  stand  of  arms. 
The  new  barracks,  a  spacious  range  of  buildings  four 
stories  in  height,  are  adapted  for  the  accommodation 
of  1000  men  ;  and  near  them  is  the  chapel  of  the  gar- 
rison, above  which  is  the  bomb-battery,  on  the  highest 
point  of  the  rock,  having  near  it  the  ancient  piece  of 
ordnance  called  "  Mons  Meg,"  mounted  on  an  elegant 
carriage  bearing  the  following  inscriptions  :  "  Believed 
to  have  been  forged  at  Mons,  A.D.  14S6  ;"  "At  the 
siege  of  Norham  Castle,  A.D.  1497;"  "Sent  to  the 
Tower  of  London,  A.D.  1754;"  "Restored  to  Scotland 
by  his  Majesty  George  IV.,  A.D.  IS1?!?." 

The  more  ancient  part  of  the  castle  comprises  a  qua- 
drangular court  of   considerable    extent,    of  which    the 
south   side    is  occupied  by  the  buildings  formerly  the 
parliament-house,  and  now  appropriated  to  the  use  of 
the  district  military  and  regimental  hospital  :   the  north 
side  is  formed  by  the  barracks,  and  the  west  by  various 
apartments   for  the   garrison.     The  east    side  contains 
the   principal  range,  surmounted  by  an  octagonal  turret 
of  considerable  elevation,  and  was  anciently   the  royal 
residence  :  here  is  the  apartment  in  which  James  VI. 
was  born  ;   over  the  door  is  the  letter  M,  with  the  date 
1566,  and  on  the  north  gable  are  a  rose   and  thistle, 
with  the  date  16 15.     Mary  of  Guise  is  said  to  have  died 
in  this  apartment ;  but  in  its  present  state  it  displays 
no   appearance  to  warrant  that  opinion.     In  this  part 
of  the  quadrangle  is  the   crown  room,   in  which,  upon 
the    Union,    were    deposited    the    ancient    regalia    of 
Scotland,  though  they  were  generally  supposed  to  have 
been  sent  to  the  Tower  of  London  :  on  a  search  under 
a    commission    issued    in    181S   by    George    IV.,  then 
regent,  to  several  noblemen,  the  judges  of  the  Supreme 
Court,   the  lord   provost,   and  other  gentlemen,  among 
whom  was  Sir  Walter  Scott,  they  were  found  inclosed 
in  an  oak  chest,   together  with   a    deed  of  deposition, 
dated  the  26th  of  March,  1707.     These  regalia,  which 
are  open  for  public    inspection   daily,   from  twelve  to 
three  o'clock,   on  producing  a  ticket,   obtainable   at   the 
Exchange,  consist  of  the  royal   crown  of  Scotland,  the 
sceptre,  the  sword   of  state,  and  a  silver  rod  of  office 
supposed  to  be  that  of  the  lord  treasurer;  and  in  the 
same  room  are  preserved  the  ruby  ring,  set  round  with 
diamonds,  which  was  worn  by  Charles  I.   at  his  coro- 
374 


nation ;  and  the  golden  collar  and  badge  of  the  order 
of  the  garter,  sent  by  Queen  Elizabeth  to  James  VI., 
and  the  badge  of  the  order  of  the  thistle,  bequeathed 
by  Cardinal  York  to  George  IV.,  and  deposited  here 
in  1830.  This  ancient  and  venerable  castle,  though 
much  disfigured  in  its  appearance  by  an  admixture  of 
modern  alterations  of  incongruous  character,  forms, 
from  its  elevated  and  commanding  situation,  a  strik- 
ingly impressive  feature  in  the  view  of  the  town. 

The  Abbey  and  Palace  of  Holyrood. 

At  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  town  are  the  remains 
of  the  ancient  Abbey  of  Holyrood,  founded  by  David  I. 
for  monks  of  the  order  of  St.  Augustine,  and  dedicated 
to  the  Holy  Cross,  in  gratitude  for  his  deliverance  from 
danger  while  hunting.  This  monastery,  which  was  libe- 
rally endowed  by  the  king  and  by  many  of  his  succes- 
sors, was  one  of  the  richest  establishments  of  the  kind 
in  the  kingdom ;  but  it  was  destroyed  by  the  English 
under  the  Earl  of  Hertford  in  1545,  and  little  of  the 
building  remains  except  the  nave  of  the  ancient  church, 
which  was  an  elegant  cruciform  structure,  a  portion 
of  which  was  appropriated  as  the  chapel  royal.  The 
chapel  was  thoroughly  repaired  in  the  year  1633,  on 
the  visit  of  Charles  I.  to  Scotland,  and  afterwards,  more 
completely,  for  his  coronation  ;  but  at  the  time  of  the 
Revolution  it  was  plundered  by  a  mob,  who  stripped  it 
of  the  roof,  destroyed  the  monuments,  took  away  the 
coffins  of  the  kings  and  nobles  who  had  been  interred 
within  its  walls,  and  scattered  their  bones  in  the  wildest 
disorder.  The  royal  vault,  when  opened  a  few  years 
previously,  in  16S3,  had  been  found  to  contain  the  cof- 
fins of  James  V.  and  his  queen,  Magdalene  ;  their  son, 
Prince  Arthur,  aud  Arthur,  son  of  James  IV.,  who  both 
died  in  infancy ;  Lord  Darnley ;  and  Lady  Jane  Stuart, 
Countess  of  Argyll.  The  chapel  remained  roofless  till 
1758,  when  it  was  covered  with  a  ponderous  roof  of 
flag  stones,  beneath  the  weight  of  which  the  walls  gave 
way,  and  the  building  has  from  that  time  been  a  ruin. 
The  remains  consist  chiefly  of  the  west  front  and  a  por- 
tion of  the  side  walls  and  piers  :  the  entrance  is  by  a 
richly-decorated  arch,  flanked  on  each  side  by  a  lofty 
square  embattled  tower;  above  the  arch  is  a  noble  win- 
dow of  elegant  design,  and  those  parts  of  the  interior 
which  are  yet  entire  display  great  beauty  and  costly 
magnificence  of  style.  In  the  north-west  tower  is  a 
handsome  marble  monument  to  Lord  Belhaven,  of  the 
Douglas  family,  who  died  in  1639  ;  but  though  the  cha- 
pel is  still  used  as  a  burial-place  by  distinguished  fami- 
lies, it  contains  no  other  monuments  of  importance.  In 
the  aisles  are  numerous  gravestones,  of  which  one  is 
pointed  out  as  the  grave  of  David  Rizzio  ;  and  there  is 
a  tablet  to  the  memory  of  Adam  Bothwell,  Bishop  of 
Orkney. 

The  Palace  of  Holyrood  House,  originally  built 
by  James  IV.,  and  enlarged  by  James  V.,  and  which 
was  a  very  spacious  structure  consisting  of  five  sepa- 
rate quadrangles,  was  burnt  by  Cromwell's  soldiers 
during  the  parliamentary  war,  and  rebuilt,  with  the 
exception  of  the  north-west  towers,  after  the  Resto- 
ration. The  present  palace,  erected  from  a  design  by 
Sir  William  Bruce,  is  a  stately  quadrangular  struc- 
ture in  the  Palladian  style  of  architecture,  inclosing  an 
area  of  about  100  feet   square,  to  which  the  principal 


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entrance  is  on  the  north-west,  by  a  handsome  gateway 
in  the  centre  of  the  front,  which,  at  each  of  the  angles, 
is  flanked  by  two  lofty  circular  towers,  embattled, 
and  crowned  with  a  pyramidal  roof  terminating  in  a 
point  surmounted  by  a  vane.  The  quadrangle  is  sur- 
rounded with  a  piazza,  in  the  south-west  angle  of  which 
is  the  entrance  to  the  royal  apartments,  by  a  grand 
staircase  leading  to  the  throne  room,  in  which  is  a  por- 
trait of  George  IV.  in  the  Highland  costume,  by  Wilkie. 
On  the  north  side  of  the  quadrangle  is  the  picture  gal- 
lery, 150  feet  in  length  and  twenty-eight  feet  wide,  of 
which  the  walls  are  painted  by  De  Wit  with  more  than 
a  hundred  full-length  portraits  and  heads  of  the  Scot- 
tish kings,  but  which  were  mutilated  and  defaced  by 
the  soldiers  under  General  Hawley,  after  their  defeat  at 
the  battle  of  Falkirk.  In  this  gallery  the  election  of 
the  representative  peers  of  Scotland  takes  place  on  the 
summoning  of  every  new  parliament. 

The  north-west  portion  of  the  palace  contains  the 
apartments  of  Queen  Mary,  and  those  of  the  Duke  of 
Hamilton,  hereditary  keeper,  which  latter  occupy  the 
first  floor  under  the  queen's,  and  in  one  of  which  the 
marriage  with  the  Earl  of  Bothwell  is  supposed  to  have 
been  celebrated.  The  apartment  in  the  western  front 
of  the  tower  called  the  queen's  bed-chamber  is  hung 
with  tapestry,  and  contains  a  portrait  of  Queen  Eliza- 
beth, of  which  the  hands  are  stained  with  blood,  and 
■various  articles  of  furniture  said  to  have  been  used  by 
Mary.  Attached  to  it  is  the  queen's  dressing-room,  in 
the  south-west  turret ;  and  to  the  right  of  it  is  the 
closet  in  which  the  queen,  with  the  Countess  of  Argyll 
and  a  few  other  ladies  of  the  court,  was  at  supper  when 
Lord  Darnley,  the  Lord  Ruthven,  and  others,  entering 
by  a  staircase  from  the  chapel  royal,  seized  Rizzio,  who 
"was  sitting  at  a  side  table,  and,  dragging  him  to  the 
head  of  the  staircase,  dispatched  him  with  their  dag- 
gers. In  the  queen's  presence-chamber  are  numerous 
paintings,  comparatively  of  recent  date ;  and  in  the 
apartments  of  the  duke  are  also  many  paintings  and 
portraits.  The  palace,  from  1795  to  1799,  afforded  an 
asylum  to  Charles  X.  of  France,  then  Count  D'Artois, 
who,  with  his  suite,  occupied  the  royal  apartments ; 
and  subsequently,  in  the  year  1S30,  the  same  monarch, 
■with  his  family,  consisting  of  the  Duke  and  Duchess 
D'Angouleme,  the  Duchess  de  Berri,  and  her  son,  the 
Duke  de  Bourdeaux,  and  a  numerous  suite,  whom  the 
revolution  had  driven  into  exile,  remained  in  the  palace 
till  their  departure  from  Scotland. 

In  the  grounds  on  the  north  and  east  of  the  palace 
and  the  chapel  ro3fal,  and  which  were  inclosed  by  a 
handsome  iron  palisade  on  the  visit  of  George  IV.,  the 
foundations  of  the  church  of  the  ancient  abbey  of  Holy- 
rood  may  be  still  distinctly  traced.  In  ^the  royal 
gardens  is  preserved  Queen  Mary's  sun-dial ;  and 
in  the  avenue  from  the  park  is  an  ancient  building 
which  has  obtained  the  name  of  the  Queen's  Bath  ; 
while  in  the  Canongate  is  a  large  edifice,  for  many 
years  the  residence  of  the  Earl  of  Murray,  regent,  to 
whom  it  had  been  given  by  the  queen,  and  in  the  gar- 
dens attached  to  which  is  a  tree  said  to  have  been 
planted  by  her.  Within  the  sanctuary  of  Holyrood 
House,  which  still  affords  security  for  twenty-four  hours 
to  persons  flying  from  their  creditors,  and  to  whom  a 
bailie  appointed  by  the  Duke  of  Hamilton  afterwards 
grants  protection,  on  application  in  that  time,  are  the 
3?5 


parks  of  St.  Anne's-yards,  the  Duke's-walk,  and  Ar- 
thur's Seat,  on  which  last  are  the  remains  of  the  cha- 
pel and  hermitage  of  St.  Anthony,  with  a  spring  of  fine 
water,  called  St.  Anthony's  well ;  and  also  within  the 
precincts  of  the  sanctuary  are  Salisbury  Crags  and  the 
south  parks,  extending  to  Duddingston  loch.  In  August, 
1843,  an  act  of  parliament  was  passed  authorising  the 
transfer  of  the  keepership  of  the  royal  park  of  Holyrood 
House  from  the  Earl  of  Haddington,  the  hereditary 
keeper,  to  the  Commissioners  of  Woods  and  Forests. 

There  are  still  some  remains  of  the  ancient  palace 
and  oratory  of  Mary  of  Guise,  queen  of  James  V.,  and 
mother  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  situated  in  Blyth's- 
close  ;  over  the  door  of  the  former  is  the  cipher  of  that 
queen,  with  the  inscription  Laus  et  Honor  Deo.  The 
situation  of  the  building,  which  has  long  been  divided 
into  small  tenements,  and  occupied  by  the  humblest 
class,  is  exceedingly  inappropriate  for  a  royal  residence  ; 
and  but  for  the  cipher  over  the  door,  it  could  not  be 
supposed  to  have  had  any  claims  to  that  distinction. 

The  Parliament  House,  and  Square. 

The  parliament-house,  situated  in  Parliament-square, 
was  built  in  1640,  at  an  expense  of  £11,000.  The  hall, 
in  which  the  pai-liaments  were  anciently  held,  is  a  noble 
apartment  122  feet  in  length  and  nearly  fifty  feet  wide, 
with  a  lofty  roof  of  old  timber  frame-work,  richly  carved, 
and  ornamented  with  gilding,  supported  by  arches  rest- 
ing on  corbels  on  the  walls.  It  is  lighted  by  a  range 
of  four  spacious  windows  on  the  west  side,  and  at  the 
south  end  is  a  handsome  window  of  large  dimensions 
and  of  elegant  design,  embellished  with  stained  glass, 
in  which  is  a  well-painted  figure  of  Justice,  with  the 
appropriate  emblems.  Near  the  north  end  is  a  statue 
of  the  first  Lord  Melville,  finely  executed  in  marble  by 
Chantrey ;  on  the  east  side  of  the  hall  is  one  of  the 
Lord  President  Forbes  by  Roubilliac,  erected  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  Faculty  of  Advocates  ;  and  on  the  opposite 
side,  towards  the  south  end,  are  two  other  statues  by 
Chantrey,  of  Lord  Chief  Baron  Dundas  and  Lord  Presi- 
dent Blair.  The  walls  of  the  parliament-house  were  for- 
merly hung  with  portraits  of  William  III.,  Queen  Mary, 
and  Queen  Anne,  by  Sir  Godfrey  Kneller,  and  of  George 
I.,  and  of  John  and  Archibald,  dukes  of  Argyll,  all  of 
which  have  been  removed. 

Connected  with  the  parliament-house  are  the  build- 
ings appropriated  to  the  use  of  the  library  of  the 
Faculty  of  Advocates,  which  was  founded  by  Sir 
George  Mackenzie,  lord  advocate  of  Scotland  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  II.,  and  at  present  contains  about 
200,000  volumes,  exclusively  of  an  extensive  collection 
of  manuscripts  on  Scottish  history  and  antiquities.  The 
library  is  under  a  chief  librarian  and  five  curators,  one 
of  whom  retires  annually,  and  is  succeeded  by  a  mem- 
ber of  the  faculty,  elected  by  the  body.  A  considerable 
number  of  the  books  are  kept  in  apartments  underneath 
the  hall  of  the  parliament-house,  and  the  remainder  in 
a  handsome  building  adjoining  it,  containing  two  spa- 
cious rooms,  of  which  the  upper  is  elegantly  decorated, 
and  has  a  richly-carved  ceiling  ornamented  with  gild- 
ing. In  this  room  are,  a  well  sculptured  bust  of  Baron 
Hume,  of  the  Scottish  exchequer,  and  nephew  of  the 
historian,  and  portraits  of  Sir  George  Mackenzie,  the 
founder  5  Archbishop  Spottiswoode,  lord  high  chancellor 


E  D  I  N 


ED  I  X 


of  Scotland  ;  the  Lords  Presidents  Forbes  and  Lockhart, 
and  other  judges  of  the  Supreme  Court ;  and  a  portrait 
of  Andrew  Crosbie,  Esq.,  advocate,  the  prototype  of 
Sir  Walter  Scott's  "  Counsellor  Pleydell"  in  Guy  Man- 
nering. 

Attached  also  to  the  buildings  of  the  parliament- 
house,  is  the  library  of  the  Writers  to  the  Signet, 
a  collection  of  more  than  60,000  volumes,  under  the 
direction  of  a  principal  librarian  and  a  body  of  cura- 
tors. The  building  comprises  two  large  apartments, 
of  which  the  upper  room  is  130  feet  in  length  and  forty 
feet  wide ;  the  lofty,  roof  is  elaborately  enriched,  and 
supported  by  a  noble  range  of  twelve  stately  columns 
on  each  side,  behind  which  a  gallery  extends  through- 
out the  whole  length.  This  apartment  is  lighted  by  a 
cupola  in  the  centre  of  the  ceiling,  the  interior  of  which 
was  painted  by  T.  Stothard,  R.A.,  in  1822,  with  ara- 
besque ornaments  and  figures  of  Apollo  and  the  Nine 
Muses,  and  three  groups  with  portraits  of  eminent 
poets,  historians,  and  philosophers,  respectively ;  in- 
cluding Homer,  Virgil,  Shakspeare,  Milton,  and  Burns 
among  the  poets  ;  Herodotus,  Livy,  Hume,  Robertson, 
and  Gibbon ;  and  Demosthenes,  Cicero,  Lord  Bacon, 
Napier  of  Merchiston,  Sir  Isaac  Newton,  and  Adam 
Smith.  On  the  grand  staircase  leading  to  this  splen- 
did room,  is  a  fine  portrait  of  Lord  President  Hope 
in  his  robes  as  lord  justice-general,  painted  by  Gordon ; 
and  on  the  landing-place  are  busts  of  Sir  James  Gibson 
Craig,  Bart.,  and  Colin  Mackenzie,  with  portraits  of  Lord 
President  Blair  and  other  eminent  lawyers. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Parliament-square  is  an  eques- 
trian statue  of  Charles  II.  erected  by  the  corporation 
in  1685,  at  an  expense  of  £1000,  and  representing 
the  king  in  the  Roman  costume,  with  a  truncheon 
in  the  right  hand  ;  and  the  buildings  around  the  area 
form  a  semicircular  range,  of  handsome  elevation,  with 
a  piazza  in  front,  comprising,  in  addition  to  the  par- 
liament-house, the  exchequer,  the  justiciary  courts,  the 
courts  of  session,  various  other  offices,  and  the  Union 
Bank  of  Scotland. 

College  of  Physicians,  and  of  Surgeons,  and 
the  Medical  Society's  Buildings. 

The  old  hall  of  the  College  of  Physicians,  situated  on 
the  south  of  George-street,  nearly  opposite  to  St.  An- 
drew's church,  and  of  which  the  first  stone  was  laid  by 
Dr.  Cullen  in  1775,  but  which  has  been  just  removed 
to  make  way  for  the  new  buildings  of  the  Commer- 
cial Bank  of  Scotland,  was  a  handsome  structure  in  the 
Grecian  style,  having  in  the  centre  of  the  principal  front 
a  boldly  projecting  portico  of  four  stately  Corinthian 
columns,  supporting  an  enriched  entablature  and  cor- 
nice, and  surmounted  by  a  triangular  pediment.  The 
whole  of  this  elegant  edifice  was  crowned  with  a  parapet 
and  open  balustrade,  and  the  interior  comprised  a  spa- 
cious and  chastely  decorated  hall  for  the  meetings  of 
the  members  of  the  college,  with  various  other  apart- 
ments ;  a  museum  ;  and  a  library  fifty  feet  in  length, 
thirty  feet  wide,  and  twenty  feet  high,  lighted  by  two 
ranges  of  five  windows,  and  surrounded  on  three  sides 
by  a  gallery.  The  new  hall  of  the  College  of  Physicians, 
situated  in  Queen-street,  is  a  building  of  much  plainer 
appearance.  The  library  is  enriched  with  a  series  of 
works  on  natural  history,  presented  by  Dr.  Wright,  of 
376 


Kersey.  Surgeons'  Hall,  belonging  to  the  Royal  College 
of  Surgeons,  incorporated  by  charter  in  17S8,  and  situ- 
ated in  Nicholson- street,  is  an  elegant  structure  erected 
at  a  cost  of  £20,000.  The  front  is  embellished  with  a 
noble  portico,  under  which  is  the  chief  entrance,  and 
the  interior  comprises  numerous  splendid  halls  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  members,  a  pathological 
museum  including  collections  by  Dr.  Barclay  and  other 
eminent  professors,  and  a  valuable  repository  of  prepa- 
rations for  the  illustration  of  the  science.  The  build- 
ings of  the  Medical  Society,  originally  instituted  in  1737, 
by  Dr.  Fothergill  and  other  distinguished  physicians, 
are  situated  in  Surgeons'-square,  to  the  east  of  the 
Infirmary,  and  comprise  three  large  rooms,  one  of 
which  contains  a  library  of  medical  works,  another  a 
museum  of  natural  curiosities  and  anatomical  prepa- 
rations ;  and  a  laboratory  for  chemical  experiments. 

The  Royal  Exchange,  and  Bank. 

The  Royal  Exchange,  in  High-street,  nearly  fronting 
the  Parliament-square,  and  of  which  the  first  stone  was 
laid  by  George  Drummond,  Esq.,  grand  master  of  the 
masonic  order,  in  1753,  was  completed  in  1761,  at  a 
cost  of  £30,000.  It  is  a  handsome  quadrangular  struc- 
ture, of  which  the  south  front  has  a  boldly  projecting 
piazza  rising  to  the  height  of  the  first  story,  and  crowned 
with  a  balustrade  :  above  this,  the  slightly  projecting 
centre  of  the  front  is  adorned  with  four  pilasters  of  the 
Corinthian  order,  supporting  an  enriched  cornice  with 
an  attic,  surmounted  by  a  triangular  pediment  orna- 
mented at  the  angles  and  on  the  apex  with  vases,  and 
having  in  the  tympanum  the  city  arms,  finely  sculp- 
tured. An  archway  leads  from  the  piazza  into  the 
quadrangular  area,  ninety-six  feet  in  length  and  eighty- 
six  feet  in  width,  of  which  three  sides  are  wholly  appro- 
priated as  shops  and  offices,  and  the  other  constitutes 
what  is  properly  the  Exchange  buildings.  These  form  a 
handsome  range  111  feet  in  length  and  fifty-seven  feet 
in  depth,  comprising  about  twenty  spacious  apartments, 
now  occupied  as  the  city  chambers,  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  town  council,  the  town-clerks,  and  other 
civic  functionaries. 

The  Bank  of  Scotland,  situated  in  Bank-street, 
nearly  opposite  to  George  the  Fourth's  bridge,  was  first 
established  by  a  company  incorporated  by  act  of  par- 
liament in  1695,  with  a  joint-stock  of  £100,000  ster- 
ling, which  has  been  since  increased  to  £2,000,000  ;  it  is 
under  the  direction  of  a  governor,  deputy  governor,  and 
a  body  of  twenty-four  directors.  The  building,  erected 
at  an  expense  of  £75,000,  is  a  fine  structure  of  stone,  of 
the  Corinthian  order,  having  in  the  centre  of  the  front 
tvvo  projecting  porticos  of  two  columns  each,  rising 
from  a  rusticated  basement,  and  supporting  an  enta- 
blature and  cornice  surmounted  with  an  open  balustrade 
that  extends  along  the  whole  of  the  building,  at  each 
end  of  which  are  corresponding  projections  of  duplicated 
Corinthian  pilasters.  Over  the  entrance  is  a  Venetian 
window  of  three  lights,  divided  by  Corinthian  columns 
sustaining  an  enriched  entablature,  above  which  are  the 
arms  of  Scotland,  having  on  one  side  a  figure  of  Plenty, 
with  an  inverted  cornucopia,  and  on  the  other  a  figure 
of  Justice,  well  sculptured,  with  the  motto  Tanto  itberior: 
behind  these,  a  cupola,  surmounted  with  a  dome,  rises 
from  the  centre  of  the  building. 


EDIN 


E  D  I  N 


The  Royal  Bank  of  Scotland,  situated  in  a  recess  to 
the  east  of  St.  Andrew's-square,  is  a  very  handsome 
building,  originally  erected  by  the  late  Sir  Laurence 
Dundas  as  a  family  residence,  but  sold  by  his  son  to 
the  Board  of  Excise,  by  whom  it  was  occupied  for  many 
years.  It  has  a  slight  projection  in  the  centre  of  the 
front,  embellished  with  four  engaged  Corinthian  columns 
springing  from  a  rusticated  basement,  in  which  is  the 
entrance,  and  supporting  an  entablature  and  cornice,  and 
a  triangular  pediment  having  in  the  tympanum  the  royal 
arms,  finely  sculptured. 

The  Register  Office. 

The  Register  Office,  situated  in  Princes-street, 
opposite  the  north  end  of  Bridge-street,  was  commenced 
in  177-1,  by  a  grant  of  £12,000  obtained  by  the  Earl  of 
Morton  in  the  reign  of  George  III.,  and  completed  in 
1S22,  at  an  expense  of  £40,000.  This  elegant  structure, 
which  is  partly  in  the  Grecian  style  of  architecture, 
after  a  design  by  Mr.  R.  Adam,  has  a  principal  front  200 
feet  in  length,  from  which  projects  a  central  portico  of 
four  Corinthian  columns,  rising  from  a  rusticated  piazza 
of  three  arches  forming  the  entrance,  and  supporting 
an  enriched  entablature  and  cornice,  with  a  triangular 
pediment,  in  the  tympanum  of  which  are  the  arms  of 
Great  Britain.  At  each  of  the  extremities  of  the  front 
is  a  projecting  wing  of  similar  character,  with  two 
columns,  between  which  is  a  Venetian  window,  sur- 
mounted by  a  turret  and  dome  rising  to  a  considerable 
elevation  above  the  balustrade ;  and  behind  the  central 
portico  are  seen  the  stately  cupola  and  dome  that  spring 
from  the  interior  of  the  quadrangle.  The  quadrangle 
is  surrounded  with  handsome  ranges  of  building  com- 
prising ninety-seven  vaulted  apartments,  among  which 
are,  an  elegant  room  thirty-five  feet  long,  twenty-four  feet 
wide,  and  twenty-three  feet  in  height,  for  the  use  of  the 
lord  registrar,  and  various  rooms  for  different  officers  of 
the  establishment,  and  for  the  clerks  of  the  courts 
of  session  and  justiciary.  Within  the  quadrangle  is 
a  circular  saloon,  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  rising  from  the 
centre  of  the  inclosure  to  the  height  of  eighty  feet,  ex- 
tending to  the  sides  of  the  quadrangle,  and  leaving  at 
the  angles  sufficient  space  for  the  admission  of  light. 
The  walls  are  divided  into  compartments  by  recesses 
for  the  reception  of  the  public  documents,  to  which 
facility  of  access  is  afforded  by  a  gallery  round  the 
interior ;  and  there  is  a  circular  window,  fifteen  feet  in 
diameter,  in  the  centre  of  the  dome,  which  is  richly 
ornamented  in  stucco.  From  the  saloon  two  grand 
staircases  lead  to  the  numerous  other  apartments  where 
the  national  records  are  deposited. 

The  Royal  and  other  Literary  and  Scientific 
Institutions. 

The  Royal  Institution,  situated  at  the  north  end 
of  the  Earthen  Mound,  in  Princes-street,  is  a  spacious 
structure  erected  in  1823,  from  a  design  by  Mr.  Playfair, 
upon  a  foundation  of  wooden  piles  which  the  nature  of 
the  ground  rendered  necessary  for  its  security  ;  it  was 
afterwards  enlarged  by  the  rebuilding  of  the  south 
end.  The  buildings  are  embellished  in  front  and  at  the 
end  with  columns  of  the  Doric  order,  and  are  surmounted 
by  a  magnificent  colossal  statue  of  Queen  Victoria,  exe- 
Vol.  I. — 377 


cuted  by  Mr.  Steel,  and  erected  in  1844.  They  com- 
prise a  spacious  gallery  for  the  exhibitions  of  the  Scottish 
Academy  of  painting,  sculpture,  and  the  fine  arts, 
founded  in  1 826  ;  and  apartments  for  the  Royal  Society 
of  Edinburgh,  instituted  in  1783  ;  and  the  Board  of 
Trustees  appointed  by  letters-patent  in  1727,  for  the 
encouragement  of  trade  and  manufactures  in  Scotland. 
The  Royal  Scottish  Society  of  Arts,  under  the  patronage 
of  the  Queen,  was  founded  in  the  year  1821,  and  incor- 
porated by  royal  charter  in  1841  ;  the  Association  for 
the  Promotion  of  the  Fine  Arts  in  Scotland  was  estab- 
lished in  1S33  ;  and  the  Art-Union  of  Scotland,  which 
is  under  the  direct  patronage  of  His  Royal  Highness 
Prince  Albert,  in  1837.  Among  the  other  scientific  and 
literary  institutions  are,  the  Royal  Medical  Society, 
already  noticed  ;  the  Harveian  Society,  founded  in  1782; 
the  Royal  Physical  Society,  instituted  in  177  ^  and 
chartered  in  17S8;  the  Anatomical  Society,  established 
in  1833;  the  Hunterian  Medical  Society;  the  Medico- 
Chirurgical  Society,  founded  in  182 1 ;  and  the  Obstetrical 
Society  :  the  Scottish  Society  of  Antiquaries,  established 
in  1780;  the  Astronomical  Institution;  the  Philoso- 
phical Association  ;  the  Geological  Society ;  the  Dialec- 
tic Society,  established  in  1787;  the  Diagnostic  Society, 
in  1816  ;  the  Juridical  Society,  in  1773  ;  the  Scots'  Law 
Society,  in  1815;  the  Speculative  Society,  in  1764;  the 
Theological  Society,  in  1776;  and  the  Metaphysical  and 
the  Phrenological  Societies.  The  College  Theological 
Library  was  instituted  in  169S  ;  the  Edinburgh  Subscrip- 
tion Library,  in  1794  ;  and  the  Architectural  Subscrip- 
tion Library,  in  1S32.  There  are,  besides,  the  Select 
Subscription,  the  New  Town  Subscription,  and  Mecha- 
nics' libraries  ;  and  public  subscription  reading-rooms. 
The  libraries  of  the  Faculty  of  Advocates  and  the  Writers 
to  the  Signet  have  been  described  in  a  previous  page. 

The  Assembly  Rooms,  in  George-street,  form  an  elegant 
structure  in  the  Roman  style  of  architecture,  having  in 
the  principal  front  a  stately  projecting  portico  of  four 
columns,  rising  from  a  rusticated  basement  forming  a 
piazza,  under  which  are  the  entrances,  to  the  whole  height 
of  the  building,  and  supporting  a  triangular  pediment. 
The  ball-room,  which  is  ninety-two  feet  long,  forty-two 
feet  w^ide,  and  forty  feet  high,  is  tastefully  decorated,  and 
is  approached  by  two  staircases,  which  meet  in  a  lofty 
saloon  in  the  middle  of  the  building,  which  also  gives 
access  to  a  spacious  and  very  handsome  Music  Hall 
erected  at  the  back  of,  and  immediately  in  connexion 
with,  the  Assembly  Rooms.  The  Theatre  Royal,  situated 
near  the  end  of  the  North  bridge,  was  erected  and 
first  opened  in  1769. 

Monuments. 

On  the  summit  of  the  highest  eminence  on  the  Calton 
hill,  is  the  monument  to  the  memory  of  Lord  Nelson, 
completed  in  lS15,and  forming  aconspicuous  object  in  the 
view  of  the  city  both  by  sea  and  land.  The  structure  con- 
sists of  a  lofty  cylindrical  tower  of  several  stages,  rising 
from  the  centre  of  a  heptagonal  building  flanked  at  the 
angles  with  projecting  embattled  turrets,  to  the  height 
of  100  feet,  and  surmounted  by  an  embattled  circular 
turret,  from  which  springs  a  flag-staff.  Above  the 
entrance  is  the  crest  of  Lord  Nelson,  with  the  stern  of 
the  San  Josef,  in  basso-relievo,  beneath  which  is  a 
tablet    with   an    appropriate   inscription ;    the  building 

3  C 


E  D  I  N 


EDIN 


around  the  base  is  occupied  as  a  tavern.  From  the 
summit  of  the  tower  is  a  truly  magnificent  view,  com- 
prehending the  German  Ocean  and  the  extensive  and 
interesting  tract  of  country  to  the  west.  The  monument 
of  the  historian,  David  Hume,  a  massive  circular  tower, 
is  also  situated  on  the  Calton  hill,  in  the  cemetery  over- 
looking the  old  town. 

The  monument  erected  in  1S28  to  the  memory  of 
Lord  Melville,  in  the  centre  of  St.  Andrew's-square, 
is  a  fluted  column,  136  feet  in  height,  above  the  capital 
of  which  is  a  colossal  statue  of  his  lordship,  the  whole 
raised  chiefly  by  subscription  of  gentlemen  connected 
with  the  navy,  as  a  tribute  of  respect  to  his  memory. 
To  the  east  of  the  square,  in  a  recess  in  front  of  the 
Royal  Bank  of  Scotland,  is  a  statue  of  the  great  Earl  of 
Hopetoun,  leaning  on  a  charger,  and  placed  on  a  pe- 
destal, erected  in,lS35  in  grateful  remembrance  of  his 
mihtai-y  services.  At  the  intersection  of  George-street 
and  Hanover- street  is  a  colossal  statue,  in  bronze,  of 
George  IV.,  by  Ghantrey,  raised  in  1832,  in  commemo- 
ration of  his  majesty's  visit ;  and  at  the  end  of  Frederick- 
street,  in  a  line  with  the  former,  is  a  similar  bronze 
statue  of  William  Pitt,  by  the  same  artist. 

The  national  Monument,  of  which  the  first  stone 
was  laid  by  the  Duke  of  Hamilton  in  1822,  by  sanction 
of  the  king,  and  which  occupies  a  commanding  emi- 
nence on  the  Calton  hill,  was  commenced  by  subscrip- 
tion in  commemoration  of  the  Scottish  naval  and  mili- 
tary officers  who  fell  in  the  battles  consequent  on  the 
French  revolution.  The  design  was  intended  to  be  a 
perfect  model  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens ;  but,  the 
amount  of  the  subscriptions  having  been  all  expended 
in  the  erection  of  twelve  magnificent  columns  raised 
prior  to  the  year  1S40,  the  works  have  since  that  time 
been  suspended.  Within  the  area  of  the  site  marked 
out  for  this  monument,  an  exhibition  of  statuary  and 
sculpture  was  established  by  Mr.  Robert  Forrest  in 
1S30,  which  has  been  gradually  increasing  in  interest 
and  variety,  and  forms  a  powerful  attraction  to  persons 
visiting  the  spot.  On  Calton  hill  are  also  the  monu- 
ments of  Professor  Playfair,  near  the  Observatory,  and 
of  Dugald  Stewart,  overlooking  the  Regent's  bridge, 
both  structures  of  elegant  design  ;  and  upon  a  height 
near  the  eastern  end  of  the  High  School  buildings,  is 
the  monument  recently  erected  in  honour  of  the  poet 
Burns.  This  is  a  handsome  circular  structure,  rising 
from  an  octagonal  base  with  numerous  appropriate 
inscriptions,  and  surrounded  by  Corinthian  columns 
supporting  a  highly-enriched  entablature  and  cornice, 
surmounted  by  an  attic  and  a  pedestal  and  figure : 
within  is  a  beautifully- sculptured  statue  of  the  poet  by 
Flaxman.  The  whole  of  the  monument  is  elaborately 
embellished  with  emblematical  sculpture,  in  which  the 
lyre  is  predominant. 

Opposite  to  the  extremity  of  St.  David-street,  in  Princes- 
terrace,  and  finely  situated  in  the  gardens  of  the  North 
Loch,  is  the  superb  monument  to  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
according  to  the  design  of  Mr.  Kemp,  approved  by  the 
committee  for  its  erection,  in  1840.  This  truly  splendid 
and  elaborately-enriched  structure,  which  has  just  been 
completed,  rises  to  the  height  of  180  feet,  from  a  base 
fifty-five  feet  square,  in  a  series  of  gradually  dimin- 
ishing towers  in  the  decorated  English  style.  These 
towers  are  strengthened  by  panelled  buttresses,  termi- 
nating in  crocketed  pinnacles  with  flowered  finials,  and 
378 


which  are  connected  by  flying  buttresses  of  scroll-work, 
and  have  angular  turrets  adorned  with  canopied  shrines, 
and  springing  from  pierced  parapets.  From  the  angles 
of  the  principal  tower,  in  which  is  enshrined  a  fine 
statue  of  the  poet,  are  boldly  projecting  turrets,  of  simi- 
lar character  but  very  much  larger,  connected  with  the 
main  building  by  lofty  and  sharply-pointed  arches, 
richly  moulded,  and  crowned  with  ogee  canopies  of 
feather-work.  The  roof  of  the  tower  is  delicately 
groined,  and  is  supported  by  four  piers  of  slender  clus- 
tered columns  with  flowered  capitals,  between  which 
are  four  spacious  and  graceful  arches  affording  access 
to  the  interior,  to  which  is  an  ascent  by  flights  of  steps 
from  the  base  between  the  turrets  that  project  from  the 
angles  of  the  monument. 

In  the  ravine  of  the  Water  of  Leith,  below  Dean 
bridge,  a  handsome  Doric  temple,  consisting  of  columns 
supporting  a  circular  dome,  and  in  which  is  a  statue 
of  Hygeia,  of  colossal  dimensions,  placed  on  a  pedestal, 
has  been  erected  over  St.  Bernard's  well,  a  mineral 
spring  near  the  margin  of  the  river,  and  forms  an  in- 
teresting and  pleasing  feature  in  the  scenery. 

Lighting,  &c. 

The  streets  of  the  city  are  well  lighted  with  gas  from 
extensive  works  in  the  North  Back  of  the  Canongate, 
erected  by  a  company  of  shareholders  incorporated 
under  an  act  of  parliament  in  1818,  with  a  capital  of 
£100,000,  subscribed  in  £25  shares  ;  and  the  inhabit- 
ants are  supplied,  though  indifferently,  with  water  by  a 
company  incorporated  in  1S19,  with  a  capital  of  £253,000, 
also  in  shares  of  £25  each.  The  water,  previously  to 
the  establishment  of  this  company,  was  brought  from 
Comiston ;  but,  the  supply  being  very  inadequate  to  the 
increased  extent  of  the  town,  it  is  now  conveyed  from 
more  copious  springs  at  Crawley  and  Glencross,  about 
eight  miles  distant,  into  capacious  reservoirs,  at  the 
Castle  hill  for  the  northern,  and  near  Heriot's  hospital 
for  the  southern,  districts,  whence  it  is  distributed  by 
pipes  to  the  houses.  The  various  works  for  this  purpose 
were  completed  at  a  cost  of  more  than  £200,000  ;  and 
a  large  compensation  reservoir  has  also  been  constructed 
in  a  valley  among  the  Pentland  hills,  for  the  supply  of 
the  different  mills  and  factories  in  that  district.  The 
quantity  of  water,  however,  being  still  insufficient,  and 
its  quality  inferior,  the  company  are  now  engaged  in 
bringing  an  additional  supply  from  the  west  side  of  the 
hills  ;  and  a  new  company,  also,  has  been  formed  for 
the  purpose  of  procuring  water  from  a  distance  of  twelve 
miles,  to  be  conveyed  along  the  line  of  the  lately  pro- 
jected Caledonian  railway.  The  markets,  which  are 
spacious  and  well  adapted  for  their  object,  are  abun- 
dantly furnished  with  all  kinds  of  provisions,  and  every 
variety  of  luxuries  ;  and,  from  the  vicinity  of  the  Forth, 
fish  of  all  sorts  is  plentiful,  and  of  moderate  price. 
Coal  of  excellent  quality  is  obtained  in  the  surrounding 
districts,  and  the  Union  canal  and  the  railways  afford 
every  facility  for  its  conveyance. 

Railways,  and  Canal. 

The  Edinburgh  and  Dalkeith  Railway  was  constructed 
under  the  sanction  of  acts  of  parliament  passed  in  1826, 
1829,  and  1834.     It  extends  from  the  city  to  the  South 


ED  I  N 


ED  I  N 


Esk,  near  Newbattle,  a  distance  of  eight  miles  and 
a  quarter,  with  branches  to  Leith,  Dalkeith,  and 
Fisherrow,  in  all  nearly  fifteen  miles ;  and  has  been 
open  since  July,  1831  :  the  present  capital  is  £150,000. 
The  line  is  for  the  greater  part  level,  and  worked  by 
horses  ;  but  there  is  an  incline  near  the  city  of  1  in  30, 
about  1160  yards  long,  worked  by  two  low-pressure 
condensing-engines  ;  and  on  the  same  incline  is  a  tunnel 
572  feet  in  length,  with  a  semicircular  stone  arch  of 
twenty-feet  span.  About  100,000  tons  of  goods  and 
300,000  passengers  are  annually  conveyed  upon  this 
railway.  The  Duke  of  Buccleuch  constructed  the 
branch  to  the  town  of  Dalkeith  at  his  own  expense, 
chiefly  with  the  view  of  connecting  his  extensive  coal- 
fields on  the  south  side  of  the  Esk  with  Edinburgh  : 
his  grace  lets  the  branch  to  the  company.  Owing  to  a 
contest  in  the  session  of  parliament  of  1S44,  between 
the  proprietors  and  those  of  the  North  British  railway, 
the  latter  company  agreed  to  purchase  the  line  for 
£113,000;  and  an  act  is  about  to  be  applied  for,  to 
extend  it  to  Hawick,  and  for  power  to  use  locomotive- 
engines.  The  Edinburgh,  Leith,  and  Granton  Railway  was 
formed  under  an  act- obtained  in  1836.  It  commences 
at  the  east  end  of  Princes-street  gardens,  and  proceeds 
by  a  tunnel  under  St.  Andrew's-street,  passing  beneath 
the  east  side  of  St.  Andrew's-square,  and  next  under 
Duke,  Dublin,  and  Scotland  streets,  at  the  bottom  of 
which  last  street  is  the  northern  entrance  to  the  tunnel ; 
the  railway  thence  continues  in  nearly  a  straight  line 
to  Trinity  pier,  on  the  Firth  of  Forth.  The  whole 
length  to  Trinity  is  13,000  feet,  or  about  two  miles  and 
a  half,  and  the  length  of  the  tunnel  1000  yards,  its 
width  twenty-four  feet,  and  its  height  seventeen.  An 
act  was  obtained  in  July,  1844,  for  the  extension  of 
the  railway  to  Leith  and  to  Granton  Pier,  and  these 
branches,  already  commenced,  will  be  completed  early 
in  1846,  the  main  line  connecting  them  with  the  Edin- 
burgh and  Glasgow  and  the  North  British  railways  : 
the  capital  is  now  £173,400. 

The  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  Railway  was  established 
under  an  act  which  received  the  royal  assent  on  the  4th 
July,  1S3S,  and  was  amended  by  another  act,  passed  in 
July,  1S40.  It  commences  at  the  Haymarket  in  Edin- 
burgh, and  terminates  at  George-square  in  Glasgow, 
and  is  forty-six  miles  in  length.  There  are  two  level 
planes  together  exceeding  seven  miles,  seven  ascend- 
ing, twenty-two  miles  long  in  the  aggregate,  and  three 
descending,  about  seventeen  miles  ;  and  the  line  attains 
its  summit  level  in  the  parish  of  Cumbernauld,  about 
twelve  miles  from  Glasgow  ;  the  gradients  and  curva- 
tures are  favourable,  and  almost  entirely  of  the  first 
class.  In  the  course  of  the  line  are  five  tunnels  ;  the 
first,  at  Winchburgh,  is  330  yards  long ;  the  next,  a 
curved  one,  at  Callendar,  S30 ;  and  the  other  three, 
which  are  on  the  Glasgow  inclined  plane,  are  4/6,  292, 
and  272  yards,  respectively  ;  the  width  of  each  being 
twenty- six  feet,  and  the  height  twenty-two.  There  are 
thirty-three  bridges  over,  and  thirty-one  arches  under, 
the  railway  where  it  intersects  turnpike  and  high  roads  ; 
the  former  are  generally  semi-elliptical,  twenty-eight 
feet  in  span,  and  seventeen  in  height ;  the  latter  are 
mostly  twenty  feet  in  span.  The  principal  viaducts  are 
those  across  the  Almond  and  Avon  rivers  ;  the  one 
being  720  yards  in  length,  twenty-eight  feet  in  width, 
and  fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water,  supported  by 
thirty-six  segmental  arches  of  seventy-five  feet  span, 
379 


with  piers  of  seven  feet  in  thickness  ;  and  the  other, 
over  the  Avon  valley,  consisting  of  twenty  arches. 
There  is  also  the  Redburn  viaduct  of  eight  arches.  The 
railway  takes  a  western  direction,  by  Kirkliston  and 
Linlithgow,  to  Falkirk,  and  then  a  south-west  course 
to  Glasgow,  passing  to  the  south  of,  and  nearly  parallel 
to,  the  Forth  and  Clyde  canal,  and  crossing  the  Monk- 
land  and  Kirkintilloch  railway  within  a  few  miles  of 
its  terminus.  The  work  was  commenced  at  the  Almond 
valley,  in  October,  183S,  and  the  line  was  opened  to  the 
public  on  the  21st  February,  1S42,  the  gross  expendi- 
ture to  the  31st  July,  1844,  being  £1,649,1 15.  In  the 
year  terminating  on  the  last-mentioned  day,  the  reve- 
nue amounted  to  £117,233;  the  working  expenses  to 
£41,550  ;  and  the  number  of  passengers  conveyed  was 
666,266.  By  an  act  passed  in  1S44,  the  company  are 
allowed  to  increase  their  capital  stock  to  £1,406,250, 
and  their  privilege  of  borrowing  to  £468,750,  and  are 
empowered  to  carry  the  line  to  the  North  bridge  of 
Edinburgh,  for  which  purpose  the  works  have  been 
commenced  and  will  be  finished  in  1846,  forming  a 
junction  with  the  North  British  railway. 

The  North  British  Railway  has  been  sanctioned  by  an 
act  which  received  the  royal  assent  in  July,  1844,  and 
by  which  the  capital  stock  of  the  company  has  been 
fixed  at  £S00,000,  with  power  to  borrow  £266,666. 
The  line  commences  at  the  North  bridge  in  the  city, 
where  it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Edinburgh  and  Glas- 
gow railway,  and  terminates  at  the  Castle  hill  of  Ber- 
wick-on-Tweed  ;  its  length  is  fifty-nine  miles,  with  a 
branch  to  Haddington  of  four  miles.  The  works,  com- 
menced in  September  1844,  are  expected  to  be  com- 
pleted in  1847. 

The  Union  Canal  was  projected  in  1817,  and,  after 
considerable  opposition,  was  begun  in  ISIS  by  a  joint- 
stock  company,  and  finished  in  1S22,  at  an  expense 
amounting  to  nearly  £400,000.  It  commences  at  Port- 
Hopetoun  Basin,  at  the  south  end  of  the  Lothian-road, 
in  Edinburgh,  and  is  carried  through  the  parishes  of 
St.  Cuthbert,  Colinton,  Currie,  Ratho,  and  a  part  of 
Kirkliston,  in  this  county;  those  of  Uphall,  part  of 
Kirkliston,  Dalmeny,  Abercorn,  and  Linlithgow,  in  the 
county  of  Linlithgow  ;  and  Muiravonside,  Polmont,  and 
Falkirk,  in  the  county  of  Stirling.  It  there  terminates, 
joining  the  Forth  and  Clyde,  or  Glasgow,  canal  at  Port- 
Downie,  near  Falkirk,  a  distance  of  thirty-one  and  a 
half  miles.  In  its  course,  it  is  carried  by  extensive 
aqueducts  over  the  Water  of  Leith,  the  Almond,  and 
the  Avon,  and  passes  through  Prospect-hill  tunnel,  cut 
out  of  the  solid  rock  for  696  yards  ;  preserving  its  level 
to  within  a  mile  of  its  junction  with  the  Forth  and 
Clyde  canal,  whence  it  falls  110  feet  by  a  series  of  eleven 
locks.  The  width  of  the  canal  at  the  surface  is  forty 
feet ;  at  the  bottom,  twenty  feet ;  and  its  depth  is  five 
feet.  The  aqueduct  at  Slateford  consists  of  eight  arches  ; 
its  height  is  sixty-five  feet,  and  its  length  500  ;  and  that 
over  the  Avon  is  still  more  extensive.  On  the  banks 
along  the  line  are  numerous  villages,  and  it  approaches 
close  to  the  royal  burgh  of  Linlithgow. 

Municipal  Affairs. 

The  town  appears,  from  a  charter  of  David  I.  be- 
stowing on  the  monks  of  Holyrood  Abbey  certain  en- 
dowments payable  out  of  "  his  burgh  of  Edwinesburg," 
to  have  been  constituted  a  royal  burgh  at  least  as  early  as 

3  C2 


ED  I  N 


EDI  N 


the  reign  of  that  monarch  ;  and  at  a  very  remote  period 
the  city  was  one  of  the  four  principal  burghs,  the 
commissioners  of  which,  with  the  chamberlain  of  Scot- 
land, constituted  the  court  for  superintending  the 
affairs  of  the  royal  burghs  of  the  kingdom.  Under 
charters  granted  by  the  successors  of  David,  confirming 
to  the  inhabitants  his  grant  of  a  large  portion  of  the 
forest  lands  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  castle,  the 
citizens  had  various  privileges,  among  which  was  a 
license  to  trade,  and  to  exact  tolls  and  customs  of  all 
merchandise  and  traffic  within  the  burgh,  to  which 
James  III.,  by  charter,  added  the  liberty  of  appointing 
a  sheriff  with  extensive  jurisdiction.  Numerous  addi- 
tional immunities  were  conferred  on  the  burgesses  by 
other  kings,  all  of  which  were  ratified  and  enlarged  by 
succeeding  monarchs,  and  especially  by  James  VI.,  who 
granted  to  the  provost,  bailies,  and  council,  the  site  of 
the  city  and  all  its  appendages,  and  the  hereditary 
offices  of  sheriff  and  coroner,  with  ample  civil  and 
criminal  jurisdiction  within  the  burgh  and  Leith  and 
Newhaven.  The  provost  was  declared  high-sheriff  and 
coroner,  and  the  bailies  conjointly  and  severally  were 
his  deputy  sheriffs  and  coroners  ;  and  the  whole  of  the 
escheats,  fines,  and  amercements  in  their  jurisdiction 
were  constituted  part  of  the  common  property  of  the 
city.  This,  which  was  called  the  "  Golden  charter,"  was 
confirmed  by  Charles  I.  :  but  many  of  the  privileges, 
being  thought  to  derogate  unreasonably  from  the  pre- 
rogative of  the  crown,  were  voluntarily  surrendered  by 
the  corporation  in  1630,  and  a  new  charter,  differing 
but  slightly  from  that  of  James  VI.,  except  in  those 
instances  thought  objectionable,  was  granted  in  1636, 
and  continued  to  be  the  governing  charter  till  the  reign 
of  William  IV. 

The  management  of  the  municipal  affairs  is  vested  iu 
four  public  bodies,  namely,  the  town  council,  the  police 
board,  the  road  trustees,  and  the  county  prison  board. 
The  town  council  consists  of  thirty-three  members,  of 
whom  thirty-one  are  chosen  by  the  parliamentary  voters 
qualified  within  the  royalty;  the  remaining  two,  being 
the  dean  of  guild  and  the  convener  of  the  trades,  are 
elected  respectively  by  the  guild-brethren  of  the  city 
and  the  deacons  of  the  incorporated  trades.  Out  of 
their  own  number,  the  whole  council  appoint  a  lord 
provost,  four  bailies,  and  a  treasurer  ;  and  these  officers, 
with  the  dean  of  guild,  constitute  the  magistracy.  The 
provost  is  dignified  with  the  title  of  the  Right  Honour- 
able, and  in  the  city  takes  precedence,  on  public  occa- 
sions, of  all  the  great  officers  of  state  and  of  the  nobility, 
walking  on  the  right  hand  of  the  king  or  his  commis- 
sioner, and  having  a  sword  of  state  and  a  mace  borne 
before  him.  He  is  also  admiral,  and  the  bailies  are 
admirals-depute,  over  the  city  and  liberties,  and  the 
town,  harbour,  and  road  of  Leith.  The  council  are 
superiors  of  the  burgh  of  regality  of  Canongate,  and  of 
the  burghs  of  barony  of  Easter  and  Wester  Fortsburgh  ; 
over  which  they  appoint  certain  of  their  number  as 
baron-bailies,  and  also  two  burgesses  of  Canongate,  and 
two  inhabitants  of  Portsburgh,  as  resident  bailies.  The 
bailies  of  Canongate  exercise  the  same  legal  jurisdiction 
within  the  limits  of  their  district  as  magistrates  of  royal 
burghs ;  but  the  bailies  of  Portsburgh  perform  only 
the  petty  duties  to  which  the  bailies  of  all  burghs  of 
barony  are  now  restricted.  The  council  used  formerly 
to  appoint  the  magistrates  of  Leith  ;  but,  since  1S33, 
360 


these  have  been  elected  by  the  town  council  of  that  place, 
and  the  council  of  Edinburgh  delegate  to  them  annually 
their  jurisdiction  of  admiralty  over  the  town  and  road 
of  Leith.  The  Merchant  Company  was  incorporated, 
by  royal  charter,  in  1681,  and  ratified  by  act  of  parlia- 
ment, in  1793;  each  of  the  members  pays  on  admis- 
sion a  fee  of  £63,  besides  contributing  to  a  widows' 
fund,  established  in  1828.  It  has,  however,  never  been 
acknowledged  by  the  town  council  as  one  of  the  city 
corporations ;  and  its  members,  as  such,  have  never 
enjoyed  any  municipal  privileges.  The  acknowledged 
corporations,  possessed  of  municipal  privileges,  are  four- 
teen in  number,  the  surgeons,  goldsmiths,  skinners, 
furriers,  hammermen,  wrights,  masons,  tailors,  bakers, 
fleshers,  cordiners,  websters,  waulkers,  and  bonnet- 
makers.  The  members  of  these  incorporations  possess 
the  exclusive  right  of  exercising  their  respective  profes- 
sions and  trades  within  the  ancient  royalty  of  the  city  ; 
and  formerly,  their  presidents,  bearing  the  title  of 
deacons,  were  members  of  the  town  council.  Their 
privileges,  however,  being  of  little  value,  as  the  New 
Town  is  entirely  free  from  municipal  restrictions  of  that 
kind,  the  incorporations  are  rapidly  dwindling  away, 
and  most  of  them  will  probably  soon  be  extinct.  The 
Police  Board  of  the  city  consists  of  thirty-two  commis- 
sioners elected  annually  by  the  ratepayers,  and  of  seven- 
teen public  officers,  including  the  provost,  the  magis- 
trates of  the  city  and  Canongate,  and  the  sheriff  of  the 
county  and  his  substitutes ;  it  takes  charge  of  the 
watching,  lighting,  and  cleansing  of  the  town.  The 
County  Prison  Board  consists  of  eighteen  members 
chosen  by  the  town  councils  of  Edinburgh,  Leith,  Mus- 
selburgh, and  Portobello,  and  of  the  magistrates  of  the 
shire ;  and  has  the  care  of  all  the  prisons,  bridewells, 
and  other  places  of  confinement. 

The  magistrates,  with  the  powers  of  sheriff,  preside 
weekly  in  a  bailie  court,  of  which  the  jurisdiction  ex- 
tends over  the  ancient  and  extended  royalty,  and  the 
barony  of  Portsburgh ;  they  also  sit  in  the  police 
court,  chiefly  for  the  trial  of  petty  offences,  the  more 
serious  causes  being  remitted  for  trial  to  the  sheriff  or 
high  court  of  justiciary.  There  is  a  court  called  the 
Ten  Merks  court,  for  civil  actions  not  exceeding  that 
sum,  in  which  a  summary  process  is  observed ;  and  a 
court  for  the  recovery  of  debts  not  exceeding  £3.  6.  S. 
is  also  held  by  the  magistrates,  under  the  provisions  of 
an  act  of  the  40th  of  George  III.  A  dean-of- guild  court 
is  held  weekly  before  the  dean,  assisted  by  a  council 
annually  nominated  by  the  town  council ;  and  the  juris- 
diction of  the  court  of  admiralty  extends  over  the  whole 
of  the  county  of  the  city. 

The  County  Hall,  situated  in  the  Lawnmarket,  is  an 
elegant  structure  in  the  Grecian  style  of  architecture, 
with  a  stately  portico  of  four  fluted  Ionic  columns 
rising  to  the  roof  of  the  building,  and  supporting  a 
triangular  pediment ;  and  the  front,  on  each  side  of  the 
portico,  to  which  is  an  ascent  by  a  flight  of  steps,  is 
embellished  with  pilasters  of  the  same  order.  The  in- 
terior comprises  a  spacious  hall  for  the  county  meetings, 
fifty-six  feet  long,  twenty-six  feet  wide,  and  twenty-six 
feet  high  ;  a  court-room  forty-three  feet  in  length,  and 
twenty-nine  feet  wide,  with  a  gallery  at  the  south  end ; 
apartments  for  the  accommodation  of  the  judges,  ma- 
gistrates, witnesses,  and  others  attending  the  sessions; 
and  various   offices.      The  Old   Tolbooth,  in  which  the 


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ED  I  N 


sessions  of  parliament,  the  meetings  of  the  College  of 
Justice,  and  the  various  courts  were  formerly  held ;  in 
which  the  public  business  of  the  corporation  was  trans- 
acted, and  the  civic  banquets  and  other  festivities  took 
place ;  and  in  which,  also,  were  the  city  and  county 
gaols  and  the  debtors'  prison,  was  taken  down  in  1317, 
and  a  new  Gaol  erected  on  the  Calton  hill,  at  a  cost  of 
nearly  £30,000.  Of  this  sum,  £10,000  were  granted 
by  government,  £S000  from  the  city,  £5000  from  the 
county,  and  the  remainder  raised  by  assessment.  The 
Bridewell,  also  on  the  Calton  hill,  nearly  behind  the 
gaol,  was  erected,  in  1796,  after  a  design  by  Mr.  Robert 
Adam,  at  an  expense  of  £11,794,  raised  by  subscrip- 
tion and  assessments,  aided  by  a  grant  from  govern- 
ment. The  buildings,  consisting  of  a  semicircular  range, 
in  front  of  which  is  the  governor's  house,  are  five  stories 
in  height,  and  comprise  fifty-two  working-rooms  and 
144  sleeping-cells,  of  which  some  are  appropriated 
to  prisoners  sentenced  to  solitary  confinement.  The 
Canongate  Tolbooth,  an  ancient  structure,  and,  since  the 
erection  of  the  new  gaol,  appropriated  exclusively  to 
prisoners  for  debt,  includes  a  common  room,  eight 
sleeping  apartments,  and  rooms  for  the  governor  :  the 
front  towards  the  street  has  a  low  tower  with  angular 
turrets,  between  which  is  a  clock,  and  is  surmounted  by 
a  small  spire. 

History  and  Government  of  the  University. 

The  University  was  origi- 
nally founded  by  the  town 
council,  to  whom  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots,  granted  for 
that  purpose  the  sites  and  re- 
mains of  the  several  ancient 
religious  houses  within  the 
city,  together  with  the  lands 
and  revenues  in  various  parts 
of  the  kingdom.  Thisgiftwas 
confirmed  by  James  VI.,  who 
also  bestowed  a  license  to 
'"•  erect  schools  and  houses  for 

the  students  within  the  precincts  of  the  monastic  de- 
mesnes, and  to  receive  benefactions  and  bequests  of 
land  and  other  property  for  its  endowment,  as  well  as 
to  elect  professors,  with  ample  powers  to  remove  them 
as  they  might  think  fit,  all  which  grants,  together  with 
others  by  the  same  monarch,  were  subsequently  ratified 
by  act  of  parliament.  The  town  council,  having  like- 
wise received  a  bequest  of  S000  merks  from  Robert 
Reid,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  for  the  purpose  of  founding  a 
college  in  the  city,  began,  in  1581,  to  erect  buildings 
appropriate  for  an  institution  of  the  kind  in  the  southern 
district  of  the  town,  within  the  precincts  of  the  ancient 
college  of  Kirk  of  Field.  In  15S3,  they  were  so  far 
advanced  that  they  chose  Robert  Rollock,  formerly  of 
St.  Salvator's  college  in  the  university  of  St.  Andrew's, 
as  professor  in  their  college  of  Edinburgh,  and  his 
talents  and  popularity  soon  attracted  a  considerable 
number  of  students.  After  the  appointment  of  other 
professors,  the  town  council  elected  Mr.  Rollock  prin- 
cipal, in  15S6  :  the  institution  steadily  increasing  in 
reputation  and  importance,  additional  professorships 
were  created,  and  the  establishment  has  since  that  time 
been  rapidly  advancing  in  prosperity.  James  VI.  sub- 
381 


sequently  granted  certain  church  lands  and  tithes  in 
the  counties  of  Lothian  and  Fife  for  its  further  endow- 
ment ;  and  for  its  due  regulation  the  town  council 
founded  an  annual  visitation  by  a  committee  of  sixteen 
of  their  own  body,  with  five  of  the  ministers  of  Edin- 
burgh, and  three  advocates,  who  made  their  first  inspec- 
tion in  1614.  The  town  council  continued  these  annual 
visitations  till  1640,  when  they  appointed  a  rector  of 
the  university  to  superintend  the  management. 

During  the  parliamentary  war  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I., 
the  progress  of  the  university  met  with  no  interruption  ; 
and  Cromwell,  in  his  protectorate,  endowed  it  with  an 
annuity  of  £200.  After  the  Restoration,  many  of  the 
students  were  strongly  imbued  with  the  principles  of 
the  Covenant,  and,  on  the  visit  of  the  Duke  of  York  to 
Edinburgh,  made  preparations  for  a  public  procession 
for  the  purpose  of  displaying  their  inveterate  abhor- 
rence of  the  Roman  Catholic  religion,  by  burning  an 
effigy  of  the  pope.  To  prevent  this  outrage  to  the  feel- 
ings of  the  Duke  of  York,  afterwards  James  II.,  the 
magistrates  dispatched  a  party  of  soldiers,  when  a 
violent  tumult  took  place  between  the  military  and  the 
students,  the  latter  aided  by  the  populace  ;  seven  of  the 
rioters  were  apprehended  and  lodged  in  prison,  but 
after  a  few  days  were  liberated.  With  the  view  of 
suppressing  these  feelings,  Charles  II.  appointed  a  visi- 
tation to  be  held  in  the  university  by  the  Bishop  of 
Edinburgh,  the  lord  provost  and  magistrates  of  the 
city,  and  others,  enjoining  them  to  make  their  report  in 
16S3  ;  but  the  result  is  not  known.  Not  long  before 
the  Revolution  in  1688,  another  visitation  was  held  for 
the  same  purpose,  when  a  sentence  of  deprivation  was 
passed  upon  the  principal  and  one  of  the  professors  ; 
but  since  the  accession  of  William  III.,  the  internal 
policy  of  the  university  has  been  free  from  all  similar 
interference.  In  1768,  a  memorial  was  presented  for 
rebuilding  the  university ;  but  the  breaking  out  of  the 
American  war  suspended  all  further  proceedings  towards 
that,  undertaking.  After  the  peace,  however,  it  was 
again  proposed,  in  17S6 ;  and  the  magistrates  having 
raised  a  subscription,  a  plan  was  designed  by  Robert 
Adam  for  rebuilding  it  upon  the  same  site,  and  the 
first  stone  of  the  present  structure  was  laid  with 
great  ceremony  by  Lord  Napier,  grand  master  mason 
of  Scotland,  on  the  16th  of  November,  1789- 

The  affairs  of  the  university  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  town  council,  by  whom  the  principal 
and  professors  are  chiefly  appointed,  and  of  a  senatus 
academicus,  assisted  by  a  secretary,  librarian,  curator 
of  the  museum,  and  other  officers.  Of  the  numerous 
professorships  founded  at  various  periods,  that  of 
Humanity,  established  in  1597,  is  in  the  patronage  of 
the  Lords  of  Session,  the  Town  Council,  the  Faculty  of 
Advocates,  and  the  Society  of  Writers  to  the  Signet. 
The  Town  Council  alone  present  to  the  professorships  of 
Greek,  founded  in  1/0S  ;  logic  and  metaphysics,  in  the 
same  year;  mathematics,  in  1674;  moral  philosophy 
and  political  economy,  in  1/0S  ;  natural  philosophy,  iu 
1708  ;  divinity,  in  I  620  ;  oriental  languages,  in  1642; 
theory  of  physic,  in  1685  ;  dietetics,  materia  medica,  and 
pharmacy,  in  1768  ;  chemistry  and  chemical  pharmacy, 
in  1713;  surgery,  in  1831;  practice  of  physic,  in  16S5; 
anatomy  and  physiology,  in  1/05 ;  general  pathology, 
in  1831  ;  midwifery  and  diseases  of  women  and  children, 
in  1726;   aad  clinical  medicine,  in  1741.     The  profes- 


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sorships  of  practical  astronomy,  founded  in  1786 ;  rhe- 
toric and  belles-lettres,  in  1762  ;  divinity  and  ecclesias- 
tical history,  in  1695;  public  law,  in  1*07;  medical 
jurisprudence  and  police,  in  1807;  clinical  surgery,  in 
1803;  military  surgery,  in  1806;  and  natural  history, 
in  1767,  are  all  in  the  gift  of  the  Crown.  The  profes- 
sorship of  universal  history,  founded  in  1719,  is  in  the 
patronage  of  the  Faculty  of  Advocates  and  the  Town 
Council;  that  of  agriculture,  established  in  1790,  in  the 
patronage  of  the  Lords  of  Session,  the  Barons  of 
the  Exchequer,  the  Town  Council,  and  the  Senatus 
Academicus  ;  music,  in  1839,  is  presented  to  by  the 
Principal  and  Professors.  Those  of  civil  law,  founded 
in  1710,  and  of  the  law  of  Scotland,  in  1719,  are  in  the 
gift  of  the  Faculty  of  Advocates  and  the  Town  Council ; 
that  of  conveyancing,  in  1825,  is  in  the  patronage  of 
the  Town  Council,  Deputy  Keeper,  and  Society  of 
Writers  to  the  Signet ;  and  that  of  botany,  in  1 676,  is 
in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown  and  the  Town  Council. 
Attached  to  the  university  are  eighty  bursaries,  varying 
in  value  from  £5  to  £100  per  annum,  of  which  last 
sum  there  are  three ;  six  are  of  £30  ;  ten  of  £20  ;  and 
their  aggregate  value  is  £1172  per  annum.  The  winter 
session  commences  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  November, 
and  closes  at  the  end  of  April  ■  and  the  summer  session 
on  the  first  Monday  of  May,  and  terminates  at  the  end 
of  July :  the  number  who  graduated  in  medicine  in 
1806  was  37;  in  1816,  76;  in  1826,  118;  in  1S36, 
123;   and  in  1844,  66. 

Buildings  of  the  University. 

The  rebuilding  of  the  university,  already  referred  to, 
was  greatly  retarded  by  want  of  adequate  funds,  and 
though  commenced  in  1789,  little  more  than  the  east 
front  and  part  of  the  north-west  range  was  raised  till  the 
year  1815,  when  government  granted  an  annual  sum  of 
£10,000,  and  a  committee  was  appointed  for  its  com- 
pletion, after  a  design  by  Mr.  Playfair.  The  present 
buildings,  in  a  mixed  style  of  architecture,  form  a  qua- 
drangle 356  feet  in  length,  and  258  in  breadth.  The 
east  front,  of  which  the  line  is  broken  by  slight  projec- 
tions in  the  centre  and  at  each  extremity,  is  embellished 
with  a  stately  portico  of  two  duplicated  Doric  columns, 
formed  each  of  one  entire  block,  rising  to  the  height  of 
twenty-six  feet,  and  supporting  an  entablature  and 
balustrade,  above  which  is  a  large  tablet  with  an  appro- 
priate inscription.  The  buildings  around  the  area  of 
the  quadrangle  are  of  various  height :  flights  of  steps 
lead  to  the  hall  of  the  senatus  academicus,  the  library, 
the  museum,  and  the  several  class-rooms,  which  are  all 
of  spacious  dimensions,  and  many  of  them  elegantly 
decorated. 

The  Library  is  187  feet  in  length,  and  fifty  feet  in 
width ;  the  roof,  richly  embellished  in  stucco,  is  sus- 
tained by  noble  ranges  of  pillars,  behind  which  are 
placed  the  recesses  for  the  reception  of  the  books.  The 
collection,  now  containing  more  than  100,000  volumes, 
originated  in  a  bequest  of  Mr.  Clement  Little,  advocate, 
who  left  his  library,  for  the  use  of  the  citizens,  to  the 
care  of  the  town  council,  by  whom  it  was  deposited  in 
the  university.  It  has  been  gradually  augmented  by 
purchases,  and  donations  ;  by  the  presentation  of  free 
copies  of  all  works  printed  in  Great  Britain ;  and  by 
the  payment  of  £5  towards  its  increase  by  each  of  the 
382 


professors  on  his  appointment,  and  a  sovereign  by  each 
of  the  students  on  his  matriculation.  In  the  library  are 
also  some  valuable  paintings  bequeathed  to  the  univer- 
sity by  Sir  James  Erskine,  of  Torry,  Bart.,  various  por- 
traits of  continental  and  other  reformers,  and  an 
interesting  collection  of  ancient  sculptures  and  other 
antiquities.  The  Museum  occupies  a  lower  and  an  upper 
room,  each  ninety  feet  long  and  thirty  feet  wide.  The 
lower  room  contains  principally  specimens  of  the  larger 
quadrupeds  and  other  animals  ;  the  upper  room,  which 
is  elegantly  fitted  up,  and  lighted  from  the  roof,  com- 
prises a  beautiful  collection  of  more  than  3000  British 
and  foreign  birds,  the  whole  carefully  arranged,  and 
including  a  large  number  of  stuffed  birds  recently  pur- 
chased by  the  university  from  Mr.  Dufresne,  of  Paris. 
On  the  tables  are  numerous  glass-cases  containing  shells, 
insects,  and  other  natural  curiosities  of  a  small  size; 
and  in  the  galleries  and  less  extensive  apartments  com- 
municating with  the  principal  room,  are  various  speci- 
mens of  minerals,  scientifically  arranged  by  Professor 
Jameson,  who,  on  his  appointment  to  the  chair  of 
natural  history,  presented  to  the  university  his  own 
private  collection,  to  which  an  addition  was  made  by 
the  late  Dr.  Thompson,  of  Naples.  The  Anatomical 
Museum  contains  a  very  large  collection  of  valuable  spe- 
cimens and  anatomical  preparations,  the  greater  number 
presented  by  the  grandfather  and  father  of  the  present 
Dr.  Monro. 

New  College. 

This  institution,  founded  in  1843,  originated  in  a 
meeting  of  the  General  Assembly,  held  in  St.  Andrew's 
church,  Edinburgh,  on  the  18th  of  May,  and  of  which 
the  result  was  a  disruption  of  numerous  ministers  from 
that  body,  who  adjourning  with  their  adherents  to 
Canonmills,  formed  themselves  into  a  "  General  As- 
sembly of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland,"  and  elected 
the  Rev.  Thomas  Chalmers,  D.D.,  for  their  moderator. 
Though  principally  intended  by  the  new  assembly,  its 
founders,  for  the  education  of  such  students  as  hold 
the  principles  of  the  Free  Church,  the  college  is  not 
confined  to  any  particular  denomination,  and  no  class 
of  the  community  is  by  the  statutes  excluded  from  par- 
ticipating in  the  instruction  it  is  calculated  to  afford. 
Its  primary  object  was  a  theological  education  ;  but  it 
is  also  designed  as  an  institution  for  general  studies, 
and  should  the  existing  university  tests  continue  to  be 
enforced,  it  will  ultimately  comprehend  a  complete  esta- 
blishment of  literary  and  philosophical,  as  well  as 
theological,  professorships.  The  institution,  which  was 
opened  on  Tuesday,  the  31st  of  October,  is  under  the 
direction  of  a  principal,  the  Rev.  Dr.  Chalmers,  who  is 
also  primarius  professor  of  divinity,  a  professor  of  theo- 
logy, a  professor  of  divinity  and  ecclesiastical  history, 
a  professor  of  Hebrew  and  the  oriental  languages,  a 
professor  of  moral  philosophy,  and  a  classical  tutor. 
The  funds  necessary  for  the  maintenance  of  the  col- 
lege are  derived  solely  from  the  contributions  of  pri- 
vate individuals,  and  the  fees  paid  by  the  students, 
which  do  not  exceed  £2.  2.  to  each  of  the  classes  ;  the 
number  of  students  during  the  first  year  was  212,  and 
in  the  year  1844  the  attendance  was  nearly  the  same. 
The  business  of  the  institution  is  at  present  conducted 
in  a  house  near  the  middle  of  George-street,  which  was 


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previously  a  private  dwelling,  and  is  very  inadequate 
for  the  purpose  ;  but  it  is  intended  to  erect  a  building 
of  such  magnitude  and  architectural  appearance  as  may 
be  fully  consistent  with  the  requirements  of  the  college 
and  the  character  of  the  town.  For  this  purpose,  an 
eligible  site  has  been  purchased  at  the  extremity  of  the 
Earthen  Mound,  and  designs  have  been  furnished  for  an 
appropriate  structure,  for  the  erection  of  which  a  sum 
exceeding  £20,000  has  been  already  subscribed  by  twenty 
individuals  alone. 

High  School,  and  Academy. 

The  High  School  of  Edinburgh  was  originally  founded 
as  a  public  grammar  school,  by  the  town  council,  in 
151S;  and  in  15*8,  being  found  inadequate  to  the 
wants  of  the  city,  it  was  refounded  on  a  more  extended 
scale.  From  the  progressive  increase  of  the  number 
of  pupils,  the  ancient  house  in  which  it  was  primarily 
established  was  taken  down  in  1777,  and  a  more  ex- 
tensive building  erected  on  its  site,  where  it  continued 
to  flourish  till  1S29,  when,  a  more  eligible  situation 
having  been  selected  in  1825,  the  school  was  removed 
to  the  present  spacious  and  elegant  structure  erected 
for  its  use  on  the  Calton  hill.  It  is  under  the  super- 
intendence of  a  rector  and  four  classical  masters,  and 
teachers  of  the  French  language,  writing,  arithmetic, 
and  the  mathematics,  all  of  whom  are  appointed  by  the 
magistrates  and  town  council.  The  fees  in  the  rector's 
class  are  £1.  5.  per  quarter,  and  in  each  of  the  four 
masters'  classes  £1 ;  for  the  French  and  mathematical 
classes,  10s.  6d.  each  ;  and  in  the  writing  and  arith- 
metical classes,  7s.  6d.  each.  The  average  number  of 
pupils  is  about  500,  to  the  most  successful  of  whom  are 
awarded  prizes  at  the  public  examinations,  which  take 
place  annually,  in  August,  before  the  magistrates  and 
council,  the  clergy  of  the  city,  and  the  professors  of  the 
university. 

The  building,  erected  after  a  design  by  Mr.  Hamilton, 
at  a  cost  of  £30,000,  partly  raised  by  subscription,  is  a 
stately  structure  of  freestone,  in  the  Grecian  style  of 
architecture,  270  feet  in  length,  and  embellished  in  the 
centre  of  the  principal  front  with  a  small  portico  of  six- 
Doric  columns,  supporting  an  entablature  and  cornice 
surmounted  by  a  triangular  pediment,  and  forming  the 
chief  entrance,  to  which  is  an  ascent,  by  a  flight  of  steps. 
On  each  side  of  the  portico  is  an  open  corridor  of 
twelve  Doric  columns,  with  entablature  and  cornice  of 
corresponding  character,  connecting  the  centre  with  the 
wings.  The  interior  comprises  a  noble  entrance-hall, 
seventy-five  feet  in  length,  and  forty-three  feet  wide, 
with  the  various  class-rooms  for  the  rector,  and  the 
four  classical  masters,  of  which  the  rector's  is  thirty- 
eight  feet  square,  and  each  of  the  other  four  thirty-eight 
feet  long,  and  twenty  feet  wide ;  to  each  of  the  class- 
rooms are  attached  two  smaller  apartments,  and  every 
arrangement  for  affording  ample  facility  to  the  purposes 
of  the  institution  has  been  studiously  provided.  At 
the  entrance  into  the  court-yard  are  two  lodges,  of  two 
stories  in  height,  in  one  of  which  are  the  class-rooms 
for  the  writing  and  mathematical  masters,  forty-eight 
and  thirty-six  feet  in  length  respectively,  and  both 
eighteen  feet  wide  ;  the  other  lodge  is  appropriated  as  a 
house  for  the  janitor ;  and  attached  to  the  school  are 
about  two  acres  of  play-ground. 
383 


The  Edinburgh  Academy,  established  in  1824,  on  a 
plan  similar  to  that  of  the  High  School,  and  situated  in 
Henderson-row,  to  the  north  of  the  New  Town,  is 
under  the  superintendence  of  a  board  of  fifteen  directors, 
of  whom  three  are  annually  elected  from  the  body  of 
subscribers  ;  it  is  conducted  by  a  rector  and  four  clas- 
sical masters,  with  other  teachers,  differing  in  no 
material  particular  from  the  High  School,  except  in  the 
amount  of  fees.  The  building,  erected  at  a  cost  of 
£14,000,  by  shareholders,  is  a  spacious  and  elegant 
structure  in  the  Grecian  style,  after  a  design  by  Mr. 
Burn,  containing  the  requisite  class-rooms,  halls,  and 
other  arrangements. 

Parishes,  and  Ecclesiastical  Arrangements. 

The  see  of  Edinburgh,  originally  founded  by  Charles  I. 
in  1633,  and  to  which  the  ancient  collegiate  church 
of  St.  Giles  was  appropriated  as  the  cathedral,  con- 
tinued till  the  Revolution,  when  the  city  contained 
only  six  parishes ;  it  is  now  the  seat  of  the  General 
Assembly  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  and  of  the  pres- 
bytery of  Edinburgh,  and  comprises  seventeen  civil 
parishes,  besides  which  there  were  until  recently  twelve 
quoad  sacra  or  ecclesiastical  parishes.  The  civil  parishes, 
with  the  exception  only  of  Canongate  and  St.  Cuth- 
bert's,  which  are  under  the  patronage  of  the  Crown,  are 
all  in  the  gift  of  the  Town  Council,  by  whom  a  stipend 
of  £54S  is  paid  to  each  of  the  ministers  ;  the  ecclesias- 
tical parishes  were  in  the  patronage  of  various  bodies, 
and  the  stipends,  differing  in  amount,  were  derived  from 
seat-rents  and  other  sources. 

The  parish  of  the  High  Church  is  wholly  within 
the  city,  and  contains  a  population  of  2776,  under  the 
pastoral  care  of  two  ministers.  The  church  is  a  portion 
of  the  cathedral  of  St.  Giles,  of  which  the  interior  was 
partitioned,  at  the  Reformation,  for  four  separate  con- 
gregations, and  has  been  subsequently  divided  into  three 
churches.  There  are  1399  sittings  for  this  parish, 
including  arrangements  for  the  lord  provost,  magis- 
trates, and  council  of  the  city,  the  judges  of  the  High 
Court  of  Session,  and  the  members  of  the  Kirk  Session. 
The  interior  of  this  once  splendid  edifice  was  richly 
embellished,  and  contained  forty  altars  to  different 
saints,  numerous  relics,  sumptuous  vestments,  and 
valuable  vessels  of  gold  and  silver,  all  of  which  were 
removed  or  destroyed  at  the  Reformation.  The  church 
was  externally  rebuilt  in  the  year  1S30,  after  a  design 
by  Mr.  Burn,  architect,  and  is  a  stately  structure  in 
the  English  style  of  architecture,  with  a  lofty  central 
tower  surmounted  by  a  small  spire  connected  with 
the  battlements  by  flying  buttresses,  uniting  iu  the 
form  of  an  imperial  crown,  and  rising  to  the  height  of 
161  feet  from  the  base.  The  south  aisle  was  formerly 
fitted  up  for  the  meetings  of  the  General  Assembly, 
but,  being  found  inconvenient  for  that  purpose,  the 
meetings  have  been  discontinued ;  and  it  is  now  occu- 
pied as  one  of  the  city  churches.  There  were  till  lately 
several  ancient  monuments,  among  which  were  those  of 
the  Regent  Murray,  the  Marquess  of  Montrose,  and  one 
erroneously  supposed  to  be  that  of  Napier,  of  Merchiston. 
The  parish  also  contains  a  preaching  station,  at  which  a 
missionary,  who  has  a  salary  of  £50,  raised  by  subscrip- 
tion, officiates  every  Sunday ;  an  episcopal  chapel, 
dedicated  to  St.  Paul ;  a  Free  church ;  and  a  place  of 


EDIN 


ED  IN 


worship  in  Carrubbers  Close,  for  a  congregation  as- 
suming no  particular  denomination. 

The  parish  of  the  Old  Church  is  of  very  limited 
extent,  and  contains  a  population  of  2939  ;  the  church, 
a  portion  of  the  collegiate  church  of  St.  Giles,  was 
taken  down  in  1S30,  and  has  not  been  rebuilt.  The 
congregation  assembled  for  public  worship  in  the  rooms 
belonging  to  the  High  School  on  Calton  hill  till  1335  ; 
but  the  south  aisle  of  St.  Giles'  is  now  appropriated  for 
them.  There  is  also  a  preaching  station,  in  which  ser- 
vice is  performed  twice  every  Sunday,  at  the  expense 
of  the  minister  of  the  parish. 

The  Tolbooth  parish,  so  called  from  the  proximity 
of  its  former  church  to  the  ancient  Tolbooth,  is  wholly 
within  the  city,  and  contains  a  population  of  2216;  the 
congregation  now  assemble  in  the  hall  recently  erected, 
near  the  Castle  hill,  for  the  meetings  of  the  General 
Assembly,  which  was  intended  also  to  serve  as  one  of 
the  city  churches,  and  has  consequently  been  assigned 
to  this  parish.  It  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  upwards 
of  £16,000,  jointly  defrayed  by  the  government  and  the 
town  council,  and  is  a  large  building  in  the  English 
style,  with  a  massive  tower  and  spire,  rising  240  feet  in 
height,  and  forming  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  objects 
in  Edinburgh  :  besides  the  spacious  hall  or  church,  it 
contains  apartments  for  the  officers,  committees,  and  the 
records  of  the  Assembly.  There  are  places  of  worship 
for  Wesleyans,  and  members  of  the  Free  Church. 

The  parish  of  Trinity  College  is  entirely  a  town 
parish,  containing  a  population  of  2615.  The  church, 
originally  founded  by  Mary  of  Gueldres,  queen  of 
James  II.,  for  a  provost,  eight  prebendaries,  two  cho- 
risters, and  a  sacristan,  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the 
later  English  style,  of  which  only  the  choir  and  tran- 
septs were  completed  ;  it  underwent  considerable  altera- 
tions in  1820,  and  contains  797  sittings.  In  a  portion 
of  the  building  the  remains  of  the  queen  are  supposed  to 
have  been  interred.  A  chapel  in  connexion  with  the 
Established  Church,  to  which  a  district  containing 
816  persons  was  for  a  short  time  annexed,  was  founded 
in  17S5  by  Lady  Glenorchy,  who  endowed  it  for  two 
ministers,  the  first  having  a  stipend  of  £400,  and  the 
second  one  of  £200,  paid  by  the  Trustees,  the  patrons. 
The  chapel,  which  was  taken  down  by  the  North 
British  Railway  Company  in  the  early  part  of  the  year 
1845,  was  a  neat  plain  structure,  containing  1514  sit- 
tings, of  which  104  were  free;  and  attached  to  it 
was  a  school  for  120  poor  children,  under  the  direction 
of  the  trustees.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for 
Independents. 

The  parish  of  the  New  North  Church,  wholly  within 
the  ancient  royalty,  has  a  population  of  2815.  A  por- 
tion of  the  cathedral  of  St.  Giles  was  early  appro- 
priated as  a  church  for  this  parish  ;  but,  from  the 
alteration  of  that  building,  the  congregation  afterwards 
assembled  in  a  place  of  worship  rented  for  their  use  by 
the  town  council,  and  containing  1233  sittings,  till,  in  a 
recent  year,  a  part  of  St.  Giles'  was  again  allotted  to 
them.  There  is  also  a  preaching  station  in  the  Lawn- 
market,  in  which  divine  service  is  performed  every  Sun- 
day by  a  licentiate  of  the  Establishment ;  and  a  place  of 
worship  has  been  erected  in  connexion  with  the  Free 
Church. 

The  parish  of  the  Tron  Church  is  wholly  within  the 
city,  and  contains  a  population  of  2498,  under  the  care 
3S4 


of  two  ministers.  The  church,  properly  Christ  Church, 
though,  from  its  proximity  to  the  public  weigh-house, 
called  the  Tron  Church,  is  a  spacious  and  handsome 
structure  in  a  mixed  style,  commenced  in  1637,  and 
completed  in  1673;  it  had  formerly  a  spire  of  wood, 
which  was  destroyed  by  an  accidental  fire  in  1824,  and 
replaced  by  a  lofty  square  tower  crowned  with  an  open 
balustrade  ornamented  by  pinnacles  at  the  angles,  and 
surmounted  with  a  turret  of  smaller  dimensions  having 
a  pyramidal  roof,  the  whole  erected  by  the  town  council 
in  1828.  The  interior,  which  contains  S32  sittings,  is 
well  arranged,  and  embellished  with  a  high  roof  of  richly- 
carved  oak.  There  is  also  a  hall  in  which  divine  service 
is  performed  two  or  three  times  during  the  week  by  a 
licentiate  of  the  Establishment ;  and  the  parish  con- 
tains places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church,  United  Secession,  Scottish  Baptists,  and  Original 
Burghers. 

The  parish  of  the  Old  Grey  Friars,  formed  in  1722, 
is  wholly  within  the  city,  and  contains  a  population  of 
2643.  The  church,  erected  by  the  town  council  in  1612, 
on  ground  which  formerly  belonged  to  the  ancient  mo- 
nastery of  the  Grey  Friars,  and  was  given  by  Queen 
Mary  to  the  magistrates  for  a  cemetery,  was,  previously 
to  the  late  fire,  a  handsome  structure  in  the  later  English 
style,  containing  1061  sittings.  The  tower,  which  had 
been  appropriated  as  the  city  magazine,  was  destroyed 
in  1718,  by  an  explosion  that  also  greatly  damaged  the 
church  ;  and  instead  of  rebuilding  the  tower,  the  magis- 
trates erected  on  its  site  the  church  of  the  New  Grey 
Friars'  parish,  separated  from  the  former  only  by  a  par- 
tition wall.  In  the  churchyard  are  interred  many  per- 
sons of  distinction,  including  George  Buchanan,  Sir 
George  Mackenzie  of  Rosehaugh,  Colin  Maclaurin,  Allan 
Ramsay,  and  Principal  Robertson.  There  is  a  preaching 
station  at  the  Magdalene  chapel,  in  the  Cowgate,  where 
divine  service  is  performed  twice  every  Sunday  by  the 
assistant  minister.  The  parish  also  comprises  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  Scottish  Bap- 
tists, Bereans,  and  Independents. 

The  parish  of  the  New  Grety  Friars  has  a  population 
of  3207.  The  church,  erected  in  1721,  adjoining  that  of 
the  Old  Grey  Friars,  and  repaired  and  reseated  in  ISIS, 
at  an  expense  of  £1518,  by  the  town  council,  was  a  neat 
structure  containing  1302  sittings;  it  was,  however, 
together  with  the  church  of  the  Old  Grey  Friars,  acci- 
dentally destroyed  by  fire  on  Sunday  morning,  January 
19th,  1S45.  The  flames  were  first  discovered  at  about 
half-past  nine  o'clock  :  by  half-past  ten  the  Old  Grey 
Friars'  church  had  almost  wholly  fallen  a  prey  to  the  de- 
vouring element,  and  shortly  afterwards  the  flames  seized 
upon  the  roof  of  the  New  Grey  Friars,  which  edifice,  not- 
withstanding the  greatest  exertions  of  the  firemen,  shared 
the  fate  of  the  other  church.  This  fire  was  one  of  the 
most  appalling  that  have  happened  in  Edinburgh  since 
the  year  1824  :  the  walls  were  almost  the  only  parts  of 
the  churches  left  standing  ;  the  scene  presented  after  the 
fire  was  one  of  the  utmost  desolation,  and  had  the  build- 
ing not  been  detached,  the  result  would  have  been  still 
more  lamentable.  Service  is  performed  at  the  Old  Gaelic 
chapel,  twice  every  Sunday,  by  a  missionary  appointed 
by  the  Kirk  Session ;  and  there  is  a  place  of  worship  for 
a  congregation  of  the  United  Christian  churches. 

The  parish  of  St.  Andrew,  separated  from  that  of  St. 
Cuthbert,  by  act  of  parliament,  in  1785,  contains  apopu- 


E  D  I  N 


E  D  I  N 


lation  of  4974,  under  the  pastoral  superintendence  of  two 
ministers.  The  church,  situated  on  the  north  side  of 
George-street,  was  erected  in  1785,  at  a  cost  of  £7000, 
by  the  town  council ;  it  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the 
Grecian  style,  with  a  stately  portico  of  four  Corinthian 
columns,  and  a  lofty  and  graceful  spire  rising  to  the  height 
of  168  feet  from  the  base  ;  the  interior  is  well  arranged, 
and  contains  1053  sittings.  The  episcopal  chapel,  dedi- 
cated to  St.  George,  was  erected  in  1794,  at  an  expense  of 
£3000  ;  it  is  an  elegant  structure,  partly  in  the  later 
English,  and  partly  in  other  styles,  after  a  design  by 
Mr.  Robert  Adam,  and  contains  642  sittings,  of  which 
fifty  are  free.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church,  United  Secession,  Baptists,  Indepen- 
dent Baptists,  Wesleyans,  and  the  followers  of  Mr. 
Mc  Lean,  who  assume  no  distinctive  denomination,  and 
a  Roman  Catholic  chapel. 

The  parish  of  St.  George  was  separated  from  that  of 
St.  Andrew  by  the  town  council  and  presbytery,  under 
an  act  of  parliament  in  1S14  j  it  is  partly  a  rural  parish, 
and  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  and  half  a  mile 
in  breadth,  containing  a  population  of  8075.  The  church, 
which  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  Charlotte-square, 
was  erected  by  the  town  council  in  1S14,  at  an  expense 
of  £33,000,  and  is  a  spacious  structure  in  the  Roman 
style,  with  a  central  portico,  and  a  square  tower  crowned 
with  a  lofty  dome  surmounted  by  a  cupola  and  cross  at 
an  elevation  of  160  feet  from  the  base;  the  interior  is 
chastely  decorated,  and  contains  16S7  sittings.  A  chapel 
of  ease  was  erected  in  Young-street  at  an  expense  of 
£700,  raised  by  subscription,  and  divine  service  is  per- 
formed three  times  every  Sunday  by  a  missionary  minis- 
ter, who  receives  a  stipend  of  £80  from  the  Kirk  Session  : 
the  chapel,  which  contained  only  347  sittings,  was  lately 
enlarged  for  a  congregation  of  1000  persons,  for  which 
purpose  £2000  were  given  by  a  single  benefactor.  There 
are  places  of  worship  for  Baptists  and  members  of  the 
Free  Church. 

The  parish  of  Lady  Yester's  church  is  wholly  a 
town  parish,  comprising  about  one-fourth  of  a  square 
mile,  and  containing  a  population  of  2223.  The  church 
was  originally  built  in  1647,  and  rebuilt  in  1805  by  the 
town  council,  to  whom  Margaret  Kerr,  Lady  Yester, 
gave  10,000  merks  for  its  erection,  and  5000  merks 
towards  its  endowment.  It  is  a  neat  structure  with  cir- 
cular gables  and  projecting  turrets  resting  on  corbels, 
and  terminating  in  slender  spires  ;  it  is  situated  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  contains  1212  sittings, 
including  160  appropriated  to  the  members  of  the  uni- 
versity, which  is  within  the  parish.  There  is  a  place  of 
worship  for  Original  Seceders. 

The  parish  of  St.  Mary  was  separated  from  that  of 
St.  Andrew  by  the  authority  of  the  town  council  and 
the  presbytery  of  Edinburgh  in  1S24;  it  is  wholly  a 
town  parish,  containing  a  population  of  6724.  The  church, 
situated  in  the  centre  of  Bellevue-crescent,  on  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  parish,  was  erected  by  the  council  in 
1S24,  at  an  expense  of  £13,000;  it  is  in  the  Grecian 
style,  with  a  portico  of  Corinthian  columns,  and  a  square 
tower  surmounted  by  a  circular  cupola  crowned  with  a 
dome,  and  contains  1646  sittings.  The  episcopal  chapel 
dedicated  to  St.  Paul,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  York- 
place,  was  erected  in  181S,  at  a  cost  of  £13,533,  raised 
by  subscription  ;  it  is  a  handsome  structure  after  a  design 
by  Mr.  Archibald  Elliott,  in  the  later  English  style 
Vol.  I. — 385 


of  architecture,  123  feet  in  length,  and  seventy-three  feet 
in  breadth,  with  lofty  embattled  turrets  at  each  extre- 
mity. The  walls  of  the  aisles  are  strengthened  with 
enriched  buttresses  between  the  windows,  terminating 
in  crocheted  pinnacles,  and  a  similar  range  is  continued 
in  the  clerestory  of  the  nave  ;  the  east  window  is  of  spa- 
cious dimensions,  and  embellished  with  stained  glass  and 
with  delicate  tracery,  and  above  the  west  entrance  is  a 
large  window  of  the  same  character.  Two  ministers  are 
attached  to  the  chapel,  each  of  whom  has  a  stipend  of 
£300.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church,  Independents,  and  Glassites. 

The  parish  of  St.  Stephen  was  separated  from  the 
several  adjoining  parishes  by  the  presbytery  and  the 
town  council,  under  an  act  of  parliament  in  1S28;  it 
is  wholly  a  town  parish,  and  comprises  a  population  of 
6849.  The  church  was  erected  in  1S28,  at  an  expense 
of  £25,000  ;  it  is  an  elegant  structure,  with  a  lofty  square 
embattled  tower.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  mem- 
bers of  the  Free  Church. 

The  parish  of  the  Canongate  is  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  in  length,  and  nearly  four-fifths  of  a  mile  in  breadth, 
comprising  a  considerable  rural  district,  and  containing  a 
population  of  9944,  under  the  pastoral  superintendence  of 
two  ministers,  of  whom  each  has  a  stipend  of  £240  ;  the 
minister  of  the  first  charge  is  appointed  by  the  Crown, 
and  has  a  manse,  and  the  minister  of  the  second  charge, 
who  is  chosen  by  the  Heritors  and  Kirk  Session,  has  an 
allowance  of  £40  in  lieu  of  a  manse.  The  church  was 
erected  in  1683,  by  the  town  council,  at  a  cost  of 
£2400,  derived  partly  from  a  bequest  by  Mr.  Thomas 
Moodie,  which  had  been  suffered  to  accumulate ;  and 
was  thoroughly  repaired  and  new  seated  in  1S19,  at  an 
expense  of  £2000.  It  is  a  plain  cruciform  structure 
of  irregular  style,  with  a  portico  of  four  columns  having 
an  entablature  and  cornice  surmounted  by  a  triangular 
pediment ;  the  interior  is  well  arranged,  and  contains 
1295  sittings.  In  the  churchyard  are  the  tombs  of 
Provost  Drummond  and  the  poet  Ferguson;  and  Adam 
Smith  and  Dugald  Stewart  are  also  interred  here.  There 
is  a  place  of  worship  for  a  congregation  of  members  of 
the  Free  Church. 

The  parish  of  St.  Cuthbert,  which  was  until  recently 
subdivided  into  several  ecclesiastical  districts,  is  of  great 
extent,  and  originally  included  the  whole  of  the  city  and 
the  burgh  of  Canongate  ;  it  is  about  five  miles  in  length, 
and  three  miles  and  a  half  in  breadth,  comprising  an 
extensive  rural  district,  and  containing  a  population  of 
71,908,  under  the  pastoral  superintendence  of  two 
ministers  appointed  by  the  Crown.  The  ministers  have 
each  a  stipend  of  £402.  14.  ;  the  one  has  also  a  manse, 
and  the  other  an  allowance  of  £60  in  lieu ;  and  the 
glebe  lands,  which  are  equally  divided  between  them, 
produce  to  each  an  income  of  £245.  The  church,  situ- 
ated at  the  western  extremity  of  Princes-street,  and 
rebuilt  in  1760,  at  a  cost  of  £4321,  is  a  spacious  and 
handsome  structure,  with  a  lofty  square  embattled 
tower,  surmounted  by  a  well-proportioned  spire ;  the 
interior  is  neatly  fitted  up,  and  contains  2400  sittings. 
The  chapel  of  ease  in  Gardner's-crescent  was  purchased 
by  the  Kirk  Session  in  1831,  together  with  the  ground 
attached  to  it,  for  £2500 ;  it  contains  1300  sittings. 
There  is  a  handsome  church  at  Morningside  ;  and  other 
churches  have  been  erected  in  the  parish  of  St.  Cuth- 
bert, as  noticed  in  a  succeeding  column.     The  episcopal 

3  D 


ED  I  N 


ED  I  N 


chapel  dedicated  to  St.  James  was  built  in  1820,  at  an 
expense  of  £4000,  raised  by  subscription ;  it  is  a  hand- 
some edifice,  and  contains  S50  sittings,  of  which  100  are 
free  :  the  minister  derives  a  stipend  of  £500,  chiefly  from 
the  seat-rents.  The  episcopal  chapel  dedicated  to  St. 
John  was  erected  in  1817,  at  a  cost  of  £16,000,  also 
raised  by  subscription  and  donations  ;  it  is  in  the  later 
English  style  of  architecture,  with  a  square  embattled 
tower  crowned  by  minarets  that  terminate  in  crocketed 
finials,  and  having  in  the  faces  double  belfry  windows, 
enriched  with  canopies.  The  walls  of  the  aisles  are 
strengthened  by  panelled  buttresses,  surmounted  with 
a  pierced  parapet,  and  a  similar  arrangement  is  con- 
tinued in  the  clerestory  of  the  nave ;  the  west  entrance 
is  under  a  deeply-recessed  archway,  above  which  is  a 
spacious  window  of  elegant  design.  The  nave  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  aisles  by  fine  clustered  columns,  which 
support  the  roof;  and  is  lighted  by  a  noble  range  of 
clerestory  windows,  and  at  the  east  end  by  a  window  of 
six  lights,  thirty  feet  high,  divided  by  transoms  into 
three  compartments,  of  which  the  upper  is  embellished 
with  a  rich  Catherine  wheel,  and  the  others  with  stained 
glass.  The  roof  of  the  nave  and  aisles  is  delicately 
groined,  and  the  whole  of  the  interior  of  the  edifice  is 
beautifully  arranged.  The  minister  has  a  stipend  of 
£550,  arising  from  seat-rents,  out  of  which  he  pays  a 
curate ;  and  the  chapel  contains  82 1  sittings.  There 
are  also  places  of  worship  in  the  parish  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church,  United  Secession,  and  Relief,  for 
Reformed  Presbyterians,  Original  Seceders,  the  Society 
of  Friends,  Baptists,  Wesleyans,  Independents,  Jews, 
and  Unitarians ;  an  Episcopalian  chapel,  dedicated  to 
St.  Peter,  and  containing  420  sittings,  two  Roman 
Catholic  chapels,  and  a  convent  established  at  White- 
house  in  1836,  and  dedicated  to  St.  Margaret. 

The  parish  of  Greenside  was  recently  divided  from 
St.  Andrew's,  and  erected  into  an  independent  parish ; 
it  is  in  the  northern  part  of  the  city,  in  the  direction  of 
Leith  Walk,  and  contains  3636  persons.  The  parish  of 
St.  John  is  also  of  very  recent  formation,  and  consists 
of  part  of  the  old  parishes  of  the  New  Grey  Friars,  Old 
Grey  Friars,  and  New  North  Church  ;  it  has  a  population 
of  2140,  and  lies  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  castle. 
Besides  the  churches  of  these  two  parishes,  there  is  a 
place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church. 

Former  Quoad  Sacra  Parishes. 

The  parish  of  New  Street  contained  a  population  of 
1932,  and  was  separated  from  the  parish  of  the  Canon- 
gate  by  act  of  the  General  Assembly  in  1834;  it  was 
of  small  extent,  and  wholly  within  the  burgh.  The 
church  was  originally  erected  as  a  chapel  of  ease,  at  a 
cost,  including  the  site,  of  £2900 ;  it  is  a  neat  struc- 
ture, and  has  1150  sittings.  The  parish  of  Leith  Wynd, 
containing  a  population  of  1868,  was  separated  also 
from  Canongate  by  the  Assembly  in  1 834  :  the  church, 
originally  built  as  a  chapel  of  ease,  in  1792,  is  ill  adapted 
to  the  use  of  the  congregation ;  it  contains  1 094  sit- 
tings. Buccleuch,  separated  from  the  parish  of  St.  Cuth- 
bert,  was  one  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  and  about  half 
a  mile  in  breadth,  and  contained  3168  persons;  the 
church,  built  in  1755,  by  subscription,  and  repaired  in 
1S09,  at  an  expense  of  £1300,  is  a  neat  structure  con- 
taining 1374  sittings.  St.  Bernard's  was  about  a  mile 
386 


and  a  half  in  length,  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in 
breadth,  and  had  a  population  of  4768 ;  the  church, 
erected  in  1822,  at  a  cost  of  £4200,  contains  1309  sit- 
tings. The  parish  of  Roxburgh  was  wholly  a  town 
parish,  and  comprised  an  area  of  about  one-fourth  of  a 
square  mile,  having  a  population  of  3683  :  the  church 
was  built  in  1809,  at  an  expense  of  £2960,  as  a  place  of 
worship  for  a  Relief  Congregation,  and  was  purchased 
in  1832  as  a  chapel  of  ease  ;  it  contains  830  sittings. 
The  parish  of  Newington,  separated,  like  the  three  pre- 
ceding, from  the  parish  of  St.  Cuthbert,  was  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  one-quarter  of  a  mile 
in  breadth,  and  contained  3310  persons;  the  church, 
erected  by  the  Kirk  Session  in  1823,  at  an  expense  of 
£6372,  contains  1623  sittings,  of  which  number  seventy- 
four  are  free.  The  Gaelic  church  in  the  parish  of  the 
Old  Grey  Friars  was,  by  act  of  the  General  Assembly, 
in  1834,  appropriated  to  the  whole  of  the  Highland 
population  of  Edinburgh,  Leith,  and  suburbs,  over 
whom  the  minister  was  invested  with  the  pastoral 
superintendence.  The  edifice,  originally  built  in  1809, 
by  subscription,  was  purchased  from  the  subscribers  by 
the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  Christian  Knowledge, 
in  1815,  at  a  cost  of  £3000 ;  it  is  a  neat  structure,  and 
contains  1166  sittings,  of  which  forty  are  free.  The 
parishes  of  Dean,  Momingside,  and  St.  Paul,  were  sepa- 
rated from  the  parish  of  St.  Cuthbert,  and  contained 
respectively  2262,  1795,  and  2874  inhabitants :  the 
church  of  Dean  has  1030  sittings,  including  thirty  free. 
The  parish  of  St.  Luke  was  separated  from  that  of  St. 
George,  and  had  a  population  of  2546  :  its  church  has 
been  already  referred  to  as  a  chapel  of  ease  in  Young- 
street,  in  the  preceding  page. 

Heriot's  Hospital. 

Heriot's  Hospital  was  founded  in  1624,  by  George 
Heriot,  a  native  of  Edinburgh,  who,  being  appointed 
goldsmith  and  jeweller  to  James  VI.,  accompanied  that 
monarch  to  London,  on  his  accession  to  the  throne  of 
England.  He  died  in  1624,  and  bequeathed  the  residue 
of  his  property,  which  realized  £23,625,  to  the  city 
ministers,  magistrates,  and  town  council,  in  trust  for  the 
erection  and  endowment  of  an  hospital  for  the  mainte- 
nance and  education  of  as  many  poor  boys,  sons  of 
freemen,  as  the  funds  would  allow.  The  building,  of 
which  the  first  stone  was  laid  in  1628,  was,  from  the 
frequent  interruption  arising  from  intestine  commotions, 
not  finished  till  1650,  when  it  was  seized  by  Cromwell 
after  the  sanguinary  battle  of  Dunbar ;  it  was,  however, 
restored  by  General  Monk,  on  his  being  provided  with 
other  accommodation  for  his  soldiers,  he  having  kept 
possession  of  it  for  eight  years  ;  and  in  1659  was  opened 
for  the  reception  of  thirty  boys.  Since  that  period,  the 
annual  revenue  of  the  hospital  has  increased  from  £1966 
to  £15,412;  and  there  are  at  present  180  boys  in  the 
establishment,  who  are  maintained,  and  instructed  in  the 
English,  French,  Latin,  and  Greek  languages,  writing, 
arithmetic,  mathematics,  book-keeping,  geography,  and 
practical  mechanics.  They  are  eligible  at  seven  years 
of  age,  and  under  ten  years  of  age,  and  are  kept  in  the 
hospital  till  they  are  fourteen ;  on  leaving  the  institu- 
tion, such  as  are  placed  out  as  apprentices  to  trades  are 
liberally  supplied  with  clothes  and  books,  and  receive 
£10  annually  for  five  years  during  their  apprenticeship, 


E  DI  N 


E  D  I  N 


and  a  present  of  £5  on  the  completion  of  their  inden- 
tures. Those  who  discover  any  talents  or  desire  for 
the  learned  professions  are  sent  to  the  university,  with 
an  allowance  of  £30  per  annum  for  four  years,  and 
there  are  also  ten  bursaries  of  £'20  per  annum,  founded 
in  the  university  by  the  trustees  of  the  hospital,  which 
are  given  to  the  most  deserving  of  the  pupils. 

The  buildings,  which  are  pleasantly  situated  on  an 
eminence  to  the  south-east  of  the  castle,  form  a  hand- 
some quadrangular  range  162  feet  in  length,  in  the 
castellated  style,  after  a  design  by  the  celebrated  archi- 
tect, Inigo  Jones,  with  embattled  turrets  at  the  angles. 
In  the  centre  of  the  principal  front  is  a  square  project- 
ing tower,  embattled,  and  surmounted  by  an  octagonal 
turret  and  dome,  above  which  is  a  cupola  of  similar 
design,  with  a  vane ;  over  the  entrance  are  the  armorial 
bearings  of  the  founder,  and  in  a  niche  above  the  gate- 
way within  the  quadrangle  is  placed  his  statue,  in  the 
costume  of  the  day.  On  the  south  side  of  the  qua- 
drangle, which  is  ninety-four  feet  square,  with  a  piazza 
on  the  north  and  east  sides,  is  the  chapel,  projecting 
beyond  the  line  of  the  buildings  within  the  area  and 
also  in  a  noble  oriel  window  in  the  rear  :  the  chapel  is 
sixty-one  feet  in  length,  and  twenty-two  feet  wide ;  the 
floor  is  laid  with  black  and  white  marble,  and  the  whole 
of  the  interior  has  bpen  recently  fitted  up  with  great 
elegance.  On  the  west  side  of  the  quadrangle  is  the 
large  hall,  or  dining-room ;  and  adjoining  it  is  the 
council  chamber,  a  handsome  and  spacious  room,  in 
which  are  portraits  of  the  founder  and  several  of  the 
trustees.  The  remainder  of  the  building,  which  is  three 
stories  in  height,  and  four  stories  at  the  angles,  contains 
apartments  for  the  governor,  class-rooms,  dormitories, 
and  other  requisite  offices  ;  and  the  park  and  grounds 
attached  are  extensive,  well  planted  with  shrubberies, 
and  inclosed  by  a  low  wall. 

Connected  with  the  hospital,  and  maintained  from 
the  same  funds,  are  the  Heriot  Foundation  schools,  for 
the  instruction  of  poor  children  of  deceased  burgesses 
and  freemen,  and  of  others  in  indigent  circumstances. 
Of  these  schools  there  are  at  present  five,  the  masters  of 
which  have  a  salary  of  £140  each,  and  the  mistresses 
£45  each,  without  any  fees ;  and  there  are  also  two 
infant  schools,  and  numerous  Sunday  schools,  supported 
from  the  surplus  funds  of  the  hospital,  and  affording 
instruction  to  nearly  1800  children. 

George  and  John  Watson's  Hospitals. 

George  Watsons  Hospital,  situated  near  Teviot-row,  to 
the  south  of  Heriot's  hospital,  was  founded  in  1723,  by 
Mr.  George  Watson,  for  the  maintenance  and  education 
of  sons  and  grandsons  of  decayed  merchants  of  Edin- 
burgh, for  which  purpose  he  bequeathed  £12,000.  This 
sum,  being  suffered  to  accumulate,  amounted  to  £20,000 
in  173S,  when  an  appropriate  building  was  erected  by 
the  trustees,  at  a  cost  of  £5000,  on  a  site  of  land  com- 
prising seven  acres,  purchased  from  Heriot's  trustees  ; 
and  in  1741  twelve  boys  were  admitted.  The  number 
increased  in  three  years  to  thirty ;  and  there  are  at  pre- 
sent about  eighty  boys  on  the  foundation,  who  are  main- 
tained, clothed,  and  instructed  in  the  English,  Latin, 
Greek,  and  French  languages,  writing,  arithmetic,  book- 
keeping, the  mathematics,  drawing,  dancing,  and  music. 
The  boys  are  eligible  for  admission  at  from  seven  to  ten 
3S7 


years  of  age ;  on  leaving  the  school,  each  receives  a 
present  of  £7  for  clothing,  and  £10  annually  for  five 
years  as  an  apprentice  fee,  and  if,  after  having  faithfully 
fulfilled  his  indentures,  he  remains  for  three  years  un- 
married, a  further  sum  of  £50  towards  establishing 
himself  in  business.  Such  as  display  a  taste  and  suffi- 
cient degree  of  talent  for  literary  pursuits  are  allowed 
£20  per  annum,  for  four  years,  for  their  support  at  the 
university,  and,  after  leaving  it,  £17  per  annum  for  two 
years.  The  hospital  is  under  the  superintendence  of  a 
body  of  governors,  consisting  of  the  master,  assistants, 
and  treasurer  of  the  Merchants'  Company,  the  bailies 
and  dean  of  guild  of  the  corporation,  and  the  two 
ministers  of  the  Old  Church  parish.  The  buildings 
form  a  neat  and  substantial  pile,  comprising  a  centre 
and  two  projecting  wings.  The  central  range,  which 
rises  above  the  roof  of  the  main  edifice,  is  embellished 
with  a  low  tower  crowned  by  a  dome,  from  which 
springs  a  turret  with  a  conical  roof  surmounted  by  a 
vane,  representing  a  ship  in  full  sail,  as  the  emblem  of 
commerce  ;  over  the  entrance  is  a  tablet  having  the 
armorial  bearings  of  the  founder,  and  in  front  of  the 
building  is  an  extensive  piece  of  ground  inclosed  as  a 
place  of  exercise  for  the  pupils.  The  interior,  which  is 
well  arranged,  comprises  spacious  class-rooms,  and  the 
various  offices  for  the  purposes  of  the  institution. 

John  Watson's  Hospital  was  founded  by  Mr.  John 
Watson,  writer  to  the  signet,  who,  in  1759,  bequeathed 
the  residue  of  his  estate  to  Lord  Milton,  Mr.  John  Mac- 
kenzie, and  others,  in  trust  for  such  pious  and  chari- 
table use  within  the  city  of  Edinburgh  as  they  should 
think  fit  ;  and  from  those  trustees  the  patronage  de- 
volved upon  the  keeper  and  deputy-keeper  of  the  signet, 
who,  in  1S22,  obtained  an  act  of  parliament  for  the 
erection  and  endowment  of  an  hospital  for  the  mainte- 
nance and  education  of  destitute  children,  and  for  bring- 
ing them  up,  and  assisting  their  establishment  in  trade. 
The  proceeds  of  the  bequest,  which,  in  1781,  amounted 
to  £4721.  9.  6.,  have  since  that  time  greatly  accumulated, 
and  at  present  exceed  £132,000.  There  are  126  chil- 
dren in  the  institution,  who  are  admitted  at  from  five 
to  eight,  and  stay  till  they  are  fourteen,  years  of  age ; 
they  are  maintained,  clothed,  and  instructed  in  reading, 
writing,  and  arithmetic,  and  the  girls  also  in  needle- 
work and  housewifery,  and  on  leaving  the  school  the 
boys  are  placed  out  to  trades,  and  the  girls  as  servants 
in  respectable  families.  The  building,  which  is  situated 
on  the  Dean  land,  was  commenced  in  1825,  and  com- 
pleted in  1S2S ;  it  is  a  spacious  and  handsome  struc- 
ture in  the  Grecian  style  of  architecture,  with  a  stately 
portico  in  the  centre  of  the  principal  front,  and  contains 
every  requisite  arrangement  for  its  purpose. 

Other  Hospitals. 

The  Merchants  Maiden  Hospital,  near  Heriot's  hospital, 
was  founded  in  1695,  by  the  Merchants'  Company,  in 
conjunction  with  Mrs.  Mary  Erskine,  for  the  mainte- 
nance and  education  of  daughters  or  grand-daughters 
of  merchant-burgesses  or  ministers  of  Edinburgh,  who 
are  eligible  for  admission  from  the  age  of  seven  to  eleven, 
and  are  maintained  till  they  are  seventeen  years  of  age. 
There  are  at  pi-esent  ninety-six  girls  in  the  hospital,  who 
are  instructed  in  the  English  and  French  languages, 
writing,  arithmetic,  geography,  history,  drawing,  dancing, 

3  D  2 


ED  I  N 


ED  I  N 


music,  and  needle-work ;  and  on  leaving  the  institution, 
each  receives  a  present  of  £9.  6.  S.  The  hospital  is 
under  the  superintendence  of  a  body  of  governors  con- 
sisting of  five  members  of  the  town  council,  the  master 
and  three  assistants  of  the  Merchants'  Company,  the 
Earl  of  Mar,  and  three  of  the  ministers  of  the  city.  The 
buildings,  originally  in  Bristo-street,  having  become  in- 
adequate for  the  purpose,  the  present  edifice  was  erected 
in  1818,  at.  an  expense  of  £12,250;  it  is  a  handsome 
structure  in  the  Grecian  style,  after  a  design  by  Mr. 
Burn,  180  feet  in  length  and  sixty  feet  in  depth,  with 
a  portico  of  four  columns  in  the  centre  of  the  principal 
front. 

The  Trades'  Maiden  Hospital  was  founded  in  1*04,  by 
the  freemen  of  the  incorporated  trades,  in  conjunction 
with  Mrs.  Mary  Erskine,  and  is  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  a  body  of  governors  consisting  of  the  deacons 
of  the  trades,  two  trades'  councillors,  and  others,  incor- 
porated by  act  of  parliament  in  17 07.  There  are  about 
fifty  girls,  the  daughters  or  grand-daughters  of  freemen 
of  the  trading  companies,  who  are  maintained  and  in- 
structed in  the  English  and  French  languages,  writing, 
arithmetic,  geography,  history,  music,  sewing,  and  laun- 
dry-work ;  they  are  eligible  for  admission  at  from  seven 
to  eleven  years  of  age,  and  remain  in  the  hospital  till 
they  are  seventeen  :  on  leaving,  each  girl  receives  a  pre- 
sent of  £5.  11.  and  a  Bible.  The  building,  which  is  a 
plain  neat  structure,  is  well  adapted  to  the  purpose,  and 
contains  all  the  requisite  accommodations. 

The  Orphan  Hospital  was  first  projected  by  Mr.  An- 
drew Gardiner,  merchant,  in  1727  ;  and  in  1733  a  house 
was  hired  for  the  purpose,  into  which  thirty  destitute 
children  were  received.  A  building  was  erected  in  1735, 
near  the  Trinity  College  church,  by  the  directors,  who 
were  incorporated  by  act  of  George  II.  in  1742 ;  but, 
from  the  subsequent  increase  of  the  city,  a  more  capa- 
cious building  was  erected  near  North  Bridge-street,  at 
an  expense  of  £16,000.  This  edifice,  however,  has  been 
demolished  within  the  last  few  years,  and  the  hospital 
removed  to  the  west  of  Edinburgh,  near  John  Watson's 
Hospital:  150  children  of  both  sexes  are  maintained, 
and  instructed  in  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  and  geo- 
graphy. The  children  are  eligible  for  admission  from 
seven  to  ten  years  of  age,  and  the  hospital  is  open 
without  distinction  to  all  parts  of  Scotland. 

Gillespie's  Hospital  was  founded  by  Mr.  James  Gilles- 
pie, an  eminent  tobacco  and  snuff  merchant,  who,  in 
1797,  bequeathed  to  the  master,  treasurer,  and  assistants 
of  the  Merchants'  Company,  five  members  of  the  town 
council,  and  the  two  ministers  of  the  Tolbooth  church, 
in  trust,  the  whole  of  his  landed  property  and  £12,000 
in  money,  for  the  erection  and  endowment  of  an  hos- 
pital for  forty-two  aged  men  and  women  in  indigent 
circumstances,  and  of  good  reputation,  and  for  the 
establishment  and  support  of  a  school  for  the  mainte- 
nance and  education  of  100  boys.  The  trustees  were 
incorporated  as  governors  in  1801,  and  in  1802  they  pur- 
chased an  ancient  structure  called  Wrights  Houses, 
near  Bruntfield  Links,  with  the  land  adjoining  it, 
on  the  site  of  which  they  erected  the  present  building. 
The  aged  persons  arc  eligible  when  fifty-five  years  old, 
and,  in  addition  to  their  maintenance  and  lodging,  have 
an  annual  allowance  in  money  for  clothing  ;  the  boys 
are  received  at  from  six  to  twelve  years  of  age,  and  are 
instructed  in  the  English  language,  writing,  and  arith- 
3SS 


metic.  The  hospital  is  a  handsome  castellated  structure 
of  stone,  consisting  of  a  centre  and  two  projecting  wings  ; 
in  the  centre  of  the  front  is  a  massive  square  embattled 
tower,  with  circular  turrets  at  the  angles,  resting  on 
corbels;  and  the  wings,  which  are  of  less  elevation  than 
the  centre,  are  embattled,  and  embellished  with  angular 
turrets  of  similar  design.  The  buildings  contain  the 
various  accommodations  for  the  inmates,  house-keepers, 
and  servants,  and  a  chapel  in  which  divine  service  is 
performed  twice  daily  by  the  chaplain,  who  also  preaches 
a  sermon  on  the  Sunday  :  attached  to  the  hospital  is  a 
spacious  garden,  and  to  the  school  sufficient  ground  for 
exercise.  There  are  at  present  fifty  aged  persons  in  the 
house,  and  150  boys  in  the  school. 

Donaldson's  Hospital  was  founded  by  Mr.  James 
Donaldson,  printer  of  the  Edinburgh  Advertiser,  who, 
in  1S30,  bequeathed  property  exceeding  £210,000  to 
trustees,  for  the  erection  and  endowment  of  an  hospital 
for  the  maintenance  and  education  of  200  poor  boys  and 
girls.  The  trustees  purchased  a  piece  of  ground  at  the 
west  end  of  the  town,  for  the  site  of  a  building  in  the 
Elizabethan  style,  after  a  design  by  Mr.  Playfair.  This 
is  now  advancing  to  completion,  and  forms,  next  to  the 
college,  the  largest  public  building  in  the  city  ;  it  is  a 
plain  but  imposing  mass,  inclosing  a  quadrangular  court, 
and  is  situated  on  the  high  bank  of  the  Water  of  Leith, 
a  mile  west  of  Princes-street. 

Trinity  Hospital  was  originally  founded  by  Mary  of 
Gueldres,  queen  of  James  II.,  in  1462,  in  connexion 
with  Trinity  collegiate  church,  and  was  subsequently 
given  by  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  to  the  corporation,  who 
took  down  the  ancient  bede-house,  then  in  a  ruinous 
state,  and  fitted  up  the  buildings  occupied  by  the  pro- 
vost and  prebendaries  of  the  collegiate  church,  for  the 
reception  of  the  poor  inmates,  consisting  of  decayed 
burgesses,  their  wives,  and  children.  The  revenues 
have  been  greatly  increased  by  good  management,  and 
there  are  at  present  forty-two  aged  persons  who  are 
maintained  and  clothed,  and  about  100  out- pensioners 
who  receive  each  an  allowance  of  £6  per  annum.  The 
building  contains  the  requisite  apartments  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  a  long  gallery  of  small  dormitories  for  one 
person  each  ;  but  it  is  about  to  be  demolished,  as  being 
in  the  line  of  the  North-British  railway,  and  the  inmates 
will  be  removed  to  the  Regent  Moray's  house  in  the 
Canongate,  which  will  be  appropriately  fitted  up  for  the 
purpose. 

Miscellaneous  Charitable  Institutions. 

The  Royal  Infirmary,  situated  to  the  east  of  the  uni- 
versity, was  founded  by  subscription,  and  placed  under 
the  superintendence  of  a  committee  of  subscribers,  who 
were  incorporated  by  act  of  parliament  in  1736;  the 
medical  department  is  under  the  care  of  the  most  emi- 
nent physicians  and  surgeons  of  the  city,  and  the  insti- 
tution affords  relief  to  a  very  extended  number  of 
patients.  The  building,  erected  in  1738,  at  a  cost  of 
£5000,  and  subsequently  enlarged  by  a  grant  of  £S0OO 
from  the  lords  of  the  treasury,  for  the  appropriation  of 
sixty  beds  for  sick  soldiers,  is  a  handsome  and  spacious 
structure  four  stories  high,  consisting  of  a  central  range 
240  feet  long,  and  two  projecting  wings  seventy  feet  in 
length.  In  the  centre  of  the  principal  range  is  a  portal 
of  four  Ionic   columns  with  two   antae,  supporting   an 


E  D  I  N 


E  D  I  N 


entablature  and  cornice  surmounted  by  an  attic  ;  and 
in  a  niche  over  the  entrance  is  a  statue  of  George  II.  in 
the  Roman  costume,  behind  which,  rising  from  the 
centre  of  the  building,  is  an  octagonal  turret  crowned 
with  a  dome.  The  interior  contains  a  spacious  hall,  in 
which  is  a  bust  of  Provost  Drummond  by  Nollekens, 
manager's  rooms,  consulting  rooms  for  the  physicians 
and  surgeons,  waiting-rooms,  rooms  for  students,  and 
fifteen  different  wards  for  patients  ;  in  the  fourth  story 
is  an  operation  room,  in  the  form  of  a  theatre,  lighted 
from  the  roof,  and  arranged  for  100  spectators. 

The  Public  Dispensary,  in  Richmond-street,  was 
founded  in  1766,  and  is  under  the  superintendence  of 
a  president,  two  vice-presidents,  and  a  committee  of 
twenty  directors,  annually  elected ;  it  is  entirely  sup- 
ported by  subscription,  and  administers  medical  advice 
and  relief  to  numerous  patients.  The  building  is  neat 
and  substantial,  and  is  embellished  in  the  centre  of  the 
front  by  a  small  portico,  supporting  an  entablature  and 
cornice  with  a  triangular  pediment,  in  the  tympanum  of 
which  is  the  story  of  the  good  Samaritan,  well  sculp- 
tured in  alto-relievo.  A  branch  of  this  institution  was 
opened  in  Physicians'  Hall  in  1S15. 

The  Royal  Lunatic  Asylum,  founded  in  1S10,  at  Morn- 
ingside,  on  the  south-western  outskirts  of  the  city,  con- 
tinued for  long  to  receive  only  patients  of  the  higher 
classes,  who  were  able  to  pay  a  considerable  sum  ;  but, 
a  few  years  ago,  the  public  attention  having  been 
earnestly  called  to  the  subject,  the  directors  collected 
large  subscriptions,  and  erected  a  very  spacious  edifice, 
capable  of  containing  350  patients  of  the  lower  classes, 
at  a  rate  of  board  varying  from  £15  to  £'20.  The  build- 
ing cost  about  £36,000,  and  is  fitted  up  with  every  re- 
quisite for  the  proper  treatment  of  the  patients,  accord- 
ing to  the  most  improved  system  ;  it  is  also  surrounded 
with  extensive  grounds  for  the  recreation  of  its  inmates. 

The  Asylum  for  the  Blind,  in  Nicholson-street,  was 
opened  in  1793,  chiefly  through  the  exertions  of  the 
Rev.  Dr.  David  Johnston  and  other  charitable  gentle- 
men of  Edinburgh,  and  is  supported  by  subscriptions 
and  donations.  It  is  under  the  superintendence  of  a 
president,  vice-presidents,  and  a  committee,  and  affords 
relief  to  about  eighty  or  ninety  inmates,  who  are  main- 
tained, and  instructed  in  the  principles  of  religion  and 
in  various  branches  of  useful  learning,  and  also  in  such 
trades  as  are  best  adapted  to  their  peculiar  circum- 
stances, in  which  several  of  them  have  been  made  so 
efficient,  as,  on  leaving  the  asylum,  to  maintain  them- 
selves and  families  in  independence.  The  buildings, 
which  are  plain  and  substantial,  and  of  which  one  part 
is  appropriated  to  males,  and  another  to  females,  are 
in  every  respect  well  adapted  to  their  use. 

The  Institution  for  Deaf  and  Dumb  Children  was 
founded  in  1S10,  and  is  under  a  president,  vice-pre- 
sidents, and  committee.  About  fifty  children  are  main- 
tained, and,  in  addition  to  religious  instruction,  taught 
reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  and  other  branches  of 
learning,  of  which  they  may  be  susceptible ;  they  are 
trained  to  habits  of  industry,  and  are  instructed  in 
useful  trades,  the  proceeds  of  which  are  added  to  the 
funds  of  the  institution.  Fettes'  Endowment  arises  in  a 
bequest  of  Sir  William  Fettes,  Bart.,  of  Comely  Bank, 
who  died  in  May,  1S36,  leaving  the  greater  portion  of 
his  large  fortune  for  the  maintenance,  education,  and 
outfit  of  young  persons  whose  parents  have  fallen  into 
389 


adverse  circumstances.  Chalmers'  Hospital,  of  which 
the  management  is  vested  in  the  dean  and  faculty  of 
advocates,  owes  its  institution  to  Mr.  George  Chalmers, 
plumber,  of  the  city,  who  died  in  March  1836,  be- 
queathing the  chief  part  of  his  property,  estimated  at 
about  £30,000,  for  the  relief  of  sick  and  hurt  persons. 

Among  other  scholastic  and  benevolent  foundations 
are,  the  School  of  Arts,  established  in  1821,  for  the 
instruction  of  mechanics  ;  the  Sessional  School  of 
Canongate,  instituted  in  1829;  the  Lancasterian  School, 
wherein,  in  1844,  were  upwards  of  600  children  ;  and 
Dr.  Bell's  Schools,  in  each  of  which  between  400  and 
500  children  are  instructed  :  the  School  for  the  Blind, 
in  Hunter-square ;  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  School,  in 
John-street ;  the  Association  for  Promoting  Education 
among  Workmen  and  Apprentices ;  and  the  Angus, 
Aberdeenshire,  and  Mearnshire  Clubs,  the  Caithness, 
Lanark,  and  Northern  Islands'  Associations,  and  the 
Morayshire  and  Orkney  and  Shetland  Societies,  all  in- 
stituted at  Edinburgh  for  the  advancement  of  education 
in,  or  for  charitable  objects  connected  with,  those  dis- 
tricts respectively.  There  are  besides,  the  Edinburgh 
branch  of  the  London  Scottish  Hospital ;  the  Institu- 
tion for  the  Relief  of  Incurables,  founded  by  the  late 
Mrs.  Elizabeth  Keir ;  the  Fever  Board  ;  the  Royal 
Port-Hopetoun,  Canongate,  and  New  Town  dispen- 
saries ;  the  Midwifery  and  Lying-in  Dispensary  and 
Hospital;  the  Maternity  Hospital,  founded  in  1843; 
and  other  institutions  for  the  relief  of  aged  and  indigent 
women,  and  the  cure  of  female  diseases  ;  the  Eye  In- 
firmary, established  in  1834;  the  House  of  Refuge, 
Queensberry  House ;  the  Night  Asylum  for  the  House- 
less ;  the  Servants'  Home;  the  Magdalen  Asylum, 
founded  in  1797;  the  Lock  Hospital,  Surgeon-square; 
and  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  at  Morningside.  Numerous 
religious  and  missionary  societies  have  been  instituted  ; 
and  there  are  various  minor  societies  for  dispensing 
relief  to  the  destitute  sick,  the  indigent  poor,  and  aged 
persons,  and  for  the  distribution  of  clothing;  also  the 
Edinburgh,  Canongate,  and  St.  Cuthbert's  Charity 
workhouses. 

Eminent  Natives. 

Among  the  distinguished  natives  of  the  city  of  Edin- 
burgh may  be  enumerated  the  following :  Alexander 
Alesius,  a  celebrated  theologian  of  the  16th  century,  born 
in  1500  ;  James  VI.,  born  in  1566;  Dr.  Walter  Balcan- 
quel,  an  eminent  divine  of  the  17th  century,  born  about 
15S0  ;  the  pious  and  learned  Robert  Leighton,  some  time 
Bishop  of  Dunblane,  and  afterwards  Archbishop  -of 
Glasgow,  1610  ;  Gilbert  Burnet,  Bishop  of  Salisbury, 
author  of  the  History  of  the  Reformation,  1643  ;  Sir  John 
Lauder,  Lord  Fountainhall,  lawyer  and  statesman,  1646; 
Dr.  Archibald  Pilcaime,  eminent  physician,  1652;  John 
Keill,  celebrated  mathematician  and  natural  philosopher, 
167  1;  John  Law,  of  Lauriston,  comptroller-general  of 
the  finances  of  France  under  the  regency  of  the  Duke 
of  Orleans,  and  projector  of  the  famous  Mississippi 
scheme  in  that  kingdom,  also  born  in  1671  :  the  accom- 
plished statesman,  John  Dalrymple,  second  Earl  of  Stair, 
1673  ;  Dr.  Alexander  Webster,  an  eminent  divine  and 
statistical  inquirer,  about  1707;  John  Campbell,  LL.D., 
a  distinguished  miscellaneous  writer,  1708;  the  accom- 
plished Hugh  Campbell  Hume,  third  and  last  Earl  of 


ED  I  N 


E  D  I  N 


Marchmont,  same  year;  Alexander  Russell,  author  of  the 
History  of  Aleppo,  ahout  1710 ;  James  Short,  optician 
and  improver  of  reflecting  telescopes,  1710;  William 
Tytler,  of  Woodhouselee,  antiquarian  writer,  1711; 
David  Hume,  the  historian,  17 11  ;  John  Stuart,  third 
Earl  of  Bute,  and  prime  minister  of  Great  Britain,  1713  ; 
Allan  Ramsay,  portrait  painter,  son  of  the  author  of 
The  Gentle  Shepherd,  same  year  ;  William  Strahan,  the 
eminent  printer  to  the  king,  and  a  patron  of  literature, 
1715  ;  Dr.  Hugh  Blair,  author  of  the  celebrated  Sermons, 
171S ;  Francis  Garden,  a  distinguished  judge,  under 
the  designation  of  Lord  Gardenstone,  1721;  James 
Elphinstone,  a  miscellaneous  writer,  same  year;  Sir 
David  Dalrymple,  a  celebrated  judge  and  antiquary, 
commonly  called  Lord  Hailes,  his  law  title,  1726  ;  Dr. 
James  Hutton,  an  eminent  philosophical  character,  same 
57ear ;  Robert  Adam,  the  architect,  1728;  William  Fal- 
coner, author  of  the  well-known  poem  of  The  Shipwreck, 
about  1730 ;  Dr.  Alexander  Monro,  celebrated  as  a 
teacher  of  medicine,  1733  ;  Robert  Mijlne,  architect,  from 
whose  plans  Blackfriars-bridge,  London,  was  built, 
1734 ;  Alexander  Runciman,  a  painter  of  considerable 
note,  1736 ;  John  Donaldson,  also  an  eminent  painter, 
son  of  a  glover  in  the  city,  1737  ;  Sir  William  Forbes,  of 
Pitsligo,  a  distinguished  banker  and  citizen,  1739 ; 
Dr.  William  Lothian,  author  of  a  History  of  the  United 
Provinces  of  the  Netherlands,  1740  ;  James  Boswell,  the 
friend  and  biographer  of  Dr.  Johnson,  same  year ; 
William  Smellie,  a  naturalist,  and  useful  miscellaneous 
writer,  born  about  the  same  time  ;  Dr.  Gilbert  Stuart, 
historical  essayist,  1742  ;  Henry  Mackenzie,  one  of  the 
most  illustrious  names  connected  with  polite  literature 
in  Scotland,  1745;  and  William  Cruickshanks,  F.R.S., 
an  eminent  surgeon  in  London,  partner  and  successor 
of  the  famous  Dr.  William  Hunter  of  the  Windmill- 
street  anatomical  school,  likewise  in  1745. 

Within  the  compass  of  the  last  hundred  years,  Edin- 
burgh has  rivalled  most  cities  of  the  empire  in  the  num- 
ber and  eminence  of  its  gifted  men  ;  and  we  select  the 
following  from  a  long  record  of  distinguished  natives  : 
The  Hon.  Henry  Erskine,  a  great  pleader,  third  son  of 
the  tenth  earl  of  Buchan,  born  1746  ;  the  accomplished 
writer  and  judge,  Alexander  Fraser  Tytler,  styled  Lord 
Woodhouselee,  1747 ;  Hugo  Arnot,  author  of  the  History 
of  Edinburgh.,  1749  ;  John  Brown,  an  ingenious  artist, 
1752;  Lieut. -Col.  John  Campbell,  known  for  his  gallant 
defence  of  the  fortress  of  Mangalore,  in  India,  1753  ; 
Dugald  Stewart,  the  highly-distinguished  metaphysical 
writer,  son  of  Dr.  Matthew  Stewart,  professor  of  mathe- 
matics in  the  university,  1753  ;  Sir  Henry  Raeburn,  cele- 
brated portrait-painter,  1756  ;  John  Pinkerton,  the  volu- 
minous historian  and  critic,  1758;  Sir  Walter  Scott,  the 
illustrious  poet  and  novelist,  1771  ;  Dr.  Andrew  Duncan, 
entitled  to  a  prominent  place  among  those  who  have 
distinguished  themselves  in  the  history  of  medicine,  and 
whose  father,  of  the  same  name,  was  professor  in  the 
university,  1773  ;  Lord  Jeffrey,  likewise  1773 ;  Wil- 
liam Blackwood,  the  publisher,  and  originator  of  the 
magazine  which  bears  his  name,  1776 ;  Francis  Horner, 
whose  virtues,  talents,  and  eloquence  raised  him,  while 
yet  a  young  man,  to  so  high  a  rank  in  public  life,  1778  ; 
Patrick  Gibson,  an  eminent  artist,  and  writer  upon  art, 
1782  ;  and  Alexander  Gordon  Laing,  whose  name  is  so 
mournfully  connected  with  the  history  of  African  dis- 
covery, 1793. 
390 


EDINBURGHSHIRE,  or  Mid  Lothian,  the  metro- 
politan county  of  the  kingdom  of  Scotland,  bounded  on 
the  north  by  the  Firth  of  Forth,  along  the  shore  of 
which  it  extends  for  about  twelve  miles  ;  on  the  east, 
by  Haddingtonshire  and  small  portions  of  the  counties 
of  Berwick  and  Roxburgh  ;  on  the  south,  by  the  counties 
of  Lanark,  Peebles,  and  Selkirk ;  and  on  the  west,  by  Lin- 
lithgowshire. It  lies  between  55°  39' and  55°  59'  (N.Lat.) 
and  2°  36'  and  3°  33'  (W.  Long.),  and  is  about  thirty- 
six  miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  and  eighteen  miles 
in  extreme  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  360  square 
miles,  or  230,400  acres;  41,779  houses,  of  which  38,927 
are  inhabited  ;  and  containing  a  population  of  225,454, 
of  whom  102,666  are  males,  and  122,78S  females.  The 
county  originally  occupied  the  central  portion  of  the 
ancient  and  extensive  province  of  Lothian,  or  Loudon, 
and  from  this  circumstance  it  obtained  the  appellation, 
of  Mid  Lothian,  by  which  it  is  still  often  designated. 
It  appears  to  have  been  inhabited  at  a  very  early  period 
by  the  Ottadini  and  Gadeni,  two  of  the  British  tribes 
descended  from  the  Celts,  who  first  made  themselves 
masters  of  this  part  of  Britain,  and  who  maintained 
their  independence  till  the  time  of  the  Roman  invasion, 
when,  to  secure  his  conquests,  Agricola  constructed  a 
chain  of  forts  extending  from  the  Forth  to  the  Clyde. 
Though  frequently  assailed  by  incursions  of  the  Cale- 
donians and  Britons,  the  Romans,  notwithstanding 
occasional  reverses,  retained  possession  of  the  terri- 
tories they  had  acquired,  which,  under  their  sway, 
formed  part  of  the  province  of  Valentia.  After  their 
departure  from  Britain,  this  district  very  soon  fell  into 
the  power  of  the  Saxons,  who,  under  their  chieftain 
Ida,  established  themselves  in  the  surrounding  coun- 
tries, which  they  continued  to  govern  with  absolute 
authority.  In  the  reign  of  Malcolm  II.,  Uchtred,  Earl  of 
Northumberland,  against  whom  that  monarch  marched 
an  army  for  the  recovery  of  his  rightful  dominions,  after 
a  long-contested  battle  on  the  banks  of  the  Tweed, 
gained  the  victory  ;  but,  being  soon  afterwards  assassi- 
nated, Malcolm,  in  prosecution  of  his  claims,  renewed 
the  war  against  the  earl's  successor,  Eadulph,  whom  he 
compelled  to  cede  the  disputed  territory  for  ever ;  and 
since  that  period  it  has  continued  to  form  part  of 
the  kingdom  of  Scotland.  Subsequently  to  this  date, 
the  history  of  the  county  is  so  perfectly  identified  with 
the  history  of  the  capital,  and  that  of  Scotland  at  large, 
that  any  fuller  detail  in  this  place  would  be  super- 
fluous. 

The  introduction  of  Christianity  appears  to  have  been, 
in  some  small  degree,  accomplished  during  the  time  of 
the  Romans ;  but,  the  Saxons  who  succeeded  them 
being  strangers  to  that  faith,  it  made  but  little  progress 
til],  by  the  persevering  efforts  of  St.  Cuthbert,  it  was 
more  generally  diffused.  Prior  to  the  cession  of  Lo- 
thian in  the  reign  of  Malcolm  II.,  this  district  was  com- 
prised in  the  ancient  diocese  of  Lindisfarn,  but  it  was 
subsequently  included  in  that  of  St.  Andrew's,  of  which 
it  continued  to  be  part  until  the  erection  of  the  diocese 
of  Edinburgh,  in  which  it  remained  till  the  Reforma- 
tion. Since  that  period  the  county  has  formed  a  por- 
tion of  the  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale,  and  it 
now  comprises  the  presbytery  of  Edinburgh,  and  thirty 
parishes,  besides  those  in  the  city  of  Edinburgh.  For 
civil  purposes,  it  was  first  erected  into  a  sheriffdom  in 
the  reign  of  David  I.,  and  is  under  the  jurisdiction  of  a 


EDIN 

sheriff,  by  whom  two  sheriffs-substitute  are  appointed  ; 
the  sessions  and  other  courts  are  held  at  Edinburgh, 
the  county  town,  and  courts  for  the  recovery  of  small 
debts  at  Edinburgh  and  Dalkeith.  Edinburgh  is  the  only 
royal  burgh  ;  Musselburgh,  Canongate,  and  Portsburgh 
are  burghs  of  regality,  and  the  county  also  contains  Dal- 
keith, a  burgh  of  barony,  the  town  and  port  of  Leith, 
and  the  flourishing  villages  of  Inveresk,  Joppa,  Porto- 
bello,  Newhaven,  Corstorphine,  Currie,  Mid  Calder, 
West  Calder,  Gilmerton,  Lonehead,  Roslin,  Penicuick, 
Lasswade,  Ratho,  Bonnyrig,  Cramond,  and  Pathhead, 
with  numerous  pleasant  hamlets.  By  the  act  of  the 
2nd  of  William  IV.,  the  county  returns  one  member  to 
the  imperial  parliament. 

Of  the  lands,  about  100,000  acres  are  arable,  S0,000 
meadow  and  pasture,  and  the  remainder  moorland  and 
waste.  The  surface  is  diversified  with  hills,  of  which 
the  two  principal  ranges  are  the  Pentland  and  the  Moor- 
foot  :  the  former,  a  continuation  from  the  county  of 
Peebles  on  the  south-west,  extends  to  within  six  miles 
of  the  sea  and  four  miles  of  the  city,  occupying  a  dis- 
trict of  about  forty  square  miles,  and  varying  consi- 
derably in  elevation.  Rising  from  a  more  level  tract  of 
country,  they  appear  loftier  than  the  Moorfoot,  and 
they  have  generally  a  more  bleak  and  barren  aspect ; 
the  highest  hills  in  the  range  within  the  county  are,  the 
Caerketton,  which  has  an  elevation  of  1555  feet,  and 
the  Spittal,  of  1360.  The  Moorfoot  hill's,  in  the  south- 
east portion  of  the  county,  occupy  an  area  of  nearly 
fifty  square  miles  in  extent,  and  range  from  1400  to 
1S50  feet  in  height ;  they  are  interspersed  with  fertile 
dales  and  tracts  of  arable  land,  and  a  large  part  of  their 
acclivities  is  under  cultivation,  producing  excellent 
crops.  This  district  is  watered  by  the  Heriot  and  Gala. 
Between  the  Pentland  range  and  the  Firth  of  Forth  are, 
the  Braid  and  Blackford  hills,  Craig-Lockhart,  Craig- 
millar,  Arthur's  Seat,  Salisbury  Crags,  the  ridge  on 
which  the  castle  and  the  Old  Town  of  Edinburgh  are 
built,  and  the  Calton  and  Corstorphine  hills.  The  prin- 
cipal streams,  not  being  of  sufficient  importance  to 
obtain  the  appellation  of  rivers,  are  generally  designated 
waters,  with  the  exception  of  the  Esk.  The  Esk  origi- 
nates in  the  confluence  of  the  North  and  South  Esk,  of 
which  the  former  rises  in  the  Pentland,  and  the  latter 
in  the  Moorfoot  hills,  and  both,  after  a  separate  course 
of  twelve  or  fifteen  miles,  unite  in  the  pleasure-grounds 
of  Dalkeith,  and  thence,  flowing  for  about  five  miles, 
fall  into  the  Forth  at  the  bay  of  Musselburgh.  The 
North  Esk,  in  its  way  to  Dalkeith,  runs  in  a  rocky 
channel,  through  a  beautifully  romantic  tract  of  country 
comprising  Roslin,  Hawthornden,  Lasswade,  and  Mel- 
ville. The  Almond  water,  forming  for  a  considerable 
distance  the  western  boundary  of  the  county,  rises  in 
the  high  grounds  in  Lanarkshire,  and,  taking  a  north- 
eastern course,  passes  through  a  level  district,  fre- 
quently overflowing  its  banks,  and  joins  the  Firth  of 
Forth  at  Cramond.  In  its  progress  along  the  pictu- 
resque valley  to  which  it  gives  name,  it  is  crossed  by 
many  bridges,  by  an  aqueduct  of  the  Union  canal,  and 
a  viaduct  of  the  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  railway.  The 
Leith  water  has  its  source  in  some  springs  in  the  parish 
of  Currie,  and,  after  a  course  of  fourteen  miles,  in  which 
it  turns  more  than  100  mills,  and  flows  under  viaducts 
of  the  Edinburgh  and  Newhaven  railways,  and  an  aque- 
duct of  the  Union  canal,  falls  into  the  Firth  at  the  har- 
391 


EDIN 

bour  of  Leith.  The  Gala  has  its  source  at  the  base  of 
the  Moorfoot  hills,  and,  after  a  southern  course  for 
about  ten  miles  through  the  vale  of  Gala,  enters  the 
county  of  Selkirk,  and  ultimately  falls  into  the  Tweed 
near  Galashiels.  There  are  no  lakes  of  any  import- 
ance. 

The  soil  is  greatly  varied ;  the  most  prevalent  is 
clayey  loam,  alternated  with  sand  and  gravel ;  and  not 
unfrequently  all  the  different  varieties  are  found  on  one 
farm.  The  lands  are  generally  fertile,  but  the  richest 
are  in  the  lower  part  of  the  county,  towards  the  Forth, 
where  there  are  not  less  than  70,000  acres  of  arable 
ground,  producing  the  most  luxuriant  crops.  The  farms 
are  of  moderate  extent,  few  less  than  100,  and  few  more 
than  300  acres ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  the  high- 
est state  of  improvement.  The  chief  crops  are,  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  beans,  peas,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  vegeta- 
bles and  fruits  of  all  kinds  are  raised  in  abundance  for 
the  supply  of  the  city,  and  the  amount  paid  for  straw- 
berries alone  is  calculated  at  £6000  per  annum.  The 
farm-buildings  are  substantial  and  well  arranged,  gene- 
rally of  stone  ;  the  dwelling-houses  roofed  with  slate,  and 
the  offices  with  tiles  ;  the  lands  are  drained  and  inclosed. 
From  the  abundance  of  manure  collected  in  the  city, 
little  of  any  other  kind  is  employed  in  its  vicinity  ;  but 
in  the  uplands,  and  on  the  distant  farms,  limestone  is 
the  principal  manure.  The  cattle  are  chiefly  of  the  black 
breed,  and  the  horses  used  for  husbandry  mostly  of  the 
Lanarkshire,  with  a  few  of  the  Clydesdale  breed ;  the 
milch-cows  are  usually  of  the  Ayrshire  and  Teviotdale 
breed.  Considerable  attention  is  paid  to  the  manage- 
ment of  the  dairy-farms,  of  which  the  main  produce  is 
milk  and  butter  for  the  supply  of  the  city  and  other 
towns.  The  sheep,  of  which  large  numbers  are  pastured 
on  the  moorlands,  are  mostly  of  the  Cheviot  breed  ; 
swine  are  also  reared  in  considerable  numbers,  and  large 
quantities  of  poultry  and  geese.  There  are  still  some 
remains  of  the  ancient  Caledonian  forest  which  formerly 
spread  over  the  greater  portion  of  the  county,  though 
about  the  commencement  of  the  sixteenth  century,  the 
Borough  Muir  and  other  lands  being  leased  by  grant  of 
James  V.  to  the  corporation  of  Edinburgh,  such  quanti- 
ties of  timber  were  felled,  that,  in  order  to  procure  pur- 
chasers, the  magistrates  bestowed  on  every  citizen  who 
bought  sufficient  to  new-front  his  house,  the  privilege  of 
extending  it  seven  feet  further  into  the  street.  Nume- 
rous oaks  of  stately  growth  still  adorn  the  lands  of  the 
chief  mansions  ;  and  very  extensive  plantations  have  been 
formed  in  various  parts,  and  on  all  the  principal  hills, 
many  of  which  are  richly  w  ooded  to  their  summit.  The 
substrata  arc  mostly  limestone,  freestone,  and  whinstone, 
all  of  which  are  quarried.  Coal  is  very  abundant 
throughout  the  greater  portion  of  the  county ;  and 
towards  Dalkeith,  in  the  eastern  district,  is  a  very  exten- 
sive coalfield,  reaching  from  the  coast  of  Musselburgh, 
for  nearly  fifteen  miles,  to  the  confines  of  Tweeddale. 
The  Dalkeith  basin  contains  as  much  coal  as  the  fields 
of  Stirling,  Clackmannan,  or  Glasgow,  and  is  remarkable 
for  a  comparatively  small  development  of  hydrogen,  an 
advantage  counterbalanced,  however,  by  a  great  quan- 
tity of  carbonic  acid.  Mr.  Bald  has  calculated  that  this 
field  alone  would  supply  the  consumption  of  Edinburgh 
for  five  hundred  years,  at  the  rate  of  350,000  tons  per 
annum  ;  but  he  includes  in  this  estimate  the  deeper  coal, 
of  which  none  has  been  yet  wrought.      Coal   appears  to 


ED  I  N 


ED  I  N 


have  been  first  raised  here  for  fuel  by  the  monks  of  New- 
battle  Abbey,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  twelfth  century. 
Many  of  the  seams  are  of  very  fine  quality,  and  there  are 
at  present  about  twenty  mines  in  constant  operation  :  the 
progress  of  mining,  however,  is  much  impeded  by  the 
quantity  of  water  accumulating  in  the  pits,  which  can  be 
drawn  off  only  by  engines  of  extraordinary  power.  Lead 
was  fomerly  wrought  on  the  south  side  of  the  Pentland 
hills.,  and  was  found  to  contain  a  considerable  propor- 
tion of  silver ;  copper-ore,  also,  was  discovered  on  the 
confines  of  Peeblesshire,  but  not  in  sufficient  quantity  to 
remunerate  the  working  of  it.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  county  is  £1,057,562. 

The  principal  manufacture  is  that  of  linen,  for  which 
there  are  several  extensive  bleaching  and  print-fields  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  city,  and  on  the  banks  of  the 
Esk.  A  considerable  business  is  also  carried  on  in  the 
manufacture  of  gunpowder,  glass,  soap,  salt,  candles, 
bricks,  tiles,  and  pottery  of  various  kinds,  and  paper ; 
and  the  manufacture  of  silk  has  been  recently  introduced, 
for  which  some  mills  have  been  erected  on  the  banks  of 
the  Union  canal.  There  are  large  iron-works  at  Cra- 
mond,  works  for  chemical  preparations,  tanneries,  dis- 
tilleries, breweries,  and  numerous  other  manufacturing 
establishments,  in  all  of  which,  though  the  county  is  not 
distinguished  for  the  extent  of  its  produce  in  this  respect, 
the  greatest  improvement  has  been  made  in  the  quality 
of  the  articles.  Every  facility  of  intercourse  with  the 
neighbouring  districts  is  afforded  by  roads  kept  in  excel- 
lent repair,  by  the  Union  canal,  the  Edinburgh  and 
Glasgow  and  other  railways,  and  the  Firth  of  Forth. 
The  maritime  commerce  of  the  county  is  very  important, 
and,  together  with  that  of  the  East  and  West  Lothians, 
Peebles,  and  Selkirkshire,  is  concentrated  at  the  port  of 
Leith.  The  shores  of  the  Firth  are  low  and  sandy,  and 
for  a  considerable'  breadth  covered  at  high  water ;  the 
Firth  abounds  with  herrings  and  other  fish,  and  the 
beach  abounds  with  shell-fish  of  every  kind  :  there  are 
also  some  valuable  beds  of  oysters.  The  principal  re- 
mains of  antiquity  are  of  Roman  origin,  and  chiefly  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  capital.  Numerous  camps  are  found 
in  various  places,  of  which  one,  near  Crichton  Castle,  is 
in  a  very  perfect  state  ;  circular  camps,  supposed  to  be 
of  Danish  formation,  are  also  prevalent,  some  consisting 
of  three,  and  others  of  more,  concentric  intrenchments 
of  earth  and  stones.  In  the  parish  of  Heriot  are  the 
remains  of  a  Druidical  circle ;  and  in  Kirkliston  are  two 
upright  stones,  commemorating  a  victory  obtained  by 
Kenneth,  commander  of  the  forces  under  Malcolm  II. 
over  the  usurper  Constantine.  The  county  also  contains 
many  cairns,  barrows,  and  tumuli,  near  which  stone 
coffins  have  been  found  ;  the  remains  of  ancient  castles, 
of  which  some  were  hunting  seats  of  the  kings  ;  the 
ruins  of  various  religious  houses  ;  and  other  relics  of 
antiquity,  all  of  which,  with  the  gentlemen's  seats,  are 
described  in  the  articles  on  their  several  localities. 

EDINKILLIE,  or  Edenkeillie,  a  parish,  in 
the  county  of  Elgin,  Sf-  miles  (S.)  from  Forres ;  con- 
taining 1237  inhabitants.  This  place  derives  its  name, 
signifying  in  the  Gaelic  language  "  the  face  of  the  wood," 
from  the  ancient  forests  of  Darnaway  and  Drummine, 
of  which  the  greater  part  of  the  former  and  the  whole 
of  the  latter  were  once  within  the  limits  of  the  parish. 
A  charter  granted  by  David  Bruce  is  still  extant,  ap- 
pointing Richard  Comyne,  ancestor  of  the  present  pro- 
392 


prietor  of  Altyre,  keeper  of  the  king's  forest  of  Darna- 
way ;  and  in  147S,  a  similar  charter  was  bestowed  by 
James  III.  upon  Thomas  Cummyne,  of  the  same  place, 
investing  him  with  the  office  of  warden  of  the  forest  of 
Drummine.  The  parish,  which  is  frequently  called 
Brae-Moray,  is  about  thirteen  miles  in  extreme  length, 
and  seven  miles  at  the  greatest  breadth,  varying  consi- 
derably in  form,  and  comprising  an  area  of  nearly 
34,000  acres,  of  which  3400  are  arable,  4700  woodland 
and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  meadow,  pasture, 
and  waste.  The  surface  is  diversified  with  numerous 
hills,  of  which  the  highest,  named  Knock-Moray,  has  an 
elevation  of  about  1000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
commanding  from  its  summit  an  extensive  and  richly- 
varied  prospect  over  the  surrounding  country.  The 
river  Findhorn,  which  has  its  source  in  the  county  of 
Inverness,  flows  for  nearly  seven  miles  in  a  winding 
course  through  the  parish,  and  falls  into  Findhorn  loch, 
in  the  Moray  Frith :  the  Divie  rises  in  the  hills  in  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  parish,  and,  after  a  north-east 
course  of  almost  nine  miles,  runs  into  the  Findhorn  ; 
and  the  Dorback,  issuing  from  the  lake  of  Lochindorb, 
falls  into  the  Divie  near  the  church.  On  the  banks  of 
the  Findhorn,  which  passes  through  a  tract  of  country 
remarkable  for  the  picturesque  beauty  of  its  scenery,  is 
an  extensive  heronry.  At  Sluie,  on  that  river,  is  a  valu- 
able salmon-fishery,  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Moray, 
which,  previously  to  the  improvement  of  the  fisheries 
nearer  the  sea,  was  amazingly  productive ;  it  is  now 
let  at  an  annual  rent  of  £50,  to  a  company  who  employ 
four  men  with  drag-nets,  taking  on  the  average  not 
more  than  700  fish  annually.  The  river  abounds  with 
trout,  which  are  also  found  in  the  Divie  and  Dorback. 
The  lake  of  Lochindorb,  partly  in  this  parish,  is  cele- 
brated for  the  remains  of  a  castle  situated  on  an  island 
within  its  limits,  of  which  Edward  I.  of  England  took 
possession,  on  his  route  to  Inverness,  in  1303,  and  in 
which  he  resided  for  some  time  on  his  return,  and  re- 
ceived the  submission  of  the  northern  estates  of  the 
kingdom.  This  castle,  in  1336,  became  the  abode  of 
Catherine  de  Beaumont,  widow  of  David  Hastings,  Earl 
of  Atholl,  and  was  besieged  by  Sir  Andrew  Moray,  who 
had  succeeded  Douglas  in  the  regency  of  Scotland  dur- 
ing the  captivity  of  David  Bruce  ;  but,  on  the  approach 
of  Edward  III.  of  England,  Sir  Andrew  retreated  with 
his  forces  to  his  castle  of  Darnaway.  Edward  placed  a 
garrison  of  English  in  the  castle ;  and  the  fortress 
afterwards  passed  from  the  Earl  of  Moray  to  the  Camp- 
bells of  Cawdor,  and  is  now  the  property  of  the  Earl  of 
Seafield. 

The  soil  of  the  arable  lands  is  in  some  parts  a  brown 
loam  alternated  with  a  rich  black  mould,  and  in  others 
light,  dry,  and  gravelly,  with  large  tracts  of  moss  ;  the  * 
crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  peas,  potatoes,  and  tur- 
nips, with  the  usual  grasses.  The  system  of  husbandry 
has  within  the  last  few  years  been  greatly  improved ; 
much  waste  has  been  reclaimed  and  brought  into  profit- 
able cultivation ;  the  lands  have  been  well  drained,  and 
inclosed  chiefly  with  sunk  fences,  faced  with  stone,  and 
planted  with  hedge-rows  of  thorn  intermixed  with  forest 
trees.  The  black-cattle  reared  in  the  pastures  are 
principally  of  the  Highland  breed,  with  a  few  of  larger 
size  bought  in  autumn,  and,  when  fattened,  sold  to 
dealers  for  the  southern  markets  ;  the  sheep,  of  which 
about  2500  are  reared,  are  the  black-faced,  and  250  of 


E  D  I  N 


EDNA 


the  Cheviot  breed  are  annually  purchased  in  September, 
and  fed  on  turnips,  either  for  the  butcher,  or  to  be  sold 
with  their  lambs  in  the  following  year.  The  natural 
woods  consist  of  oak,  ash,  beech,  elm,  sycamore,  Spa- 
nish-chesnut,  mountain-ash,  poplar,  birch,  holly,  alder, 
larch,  and  spruce  and  Scotch  firs.  A  large  quantity  of 
wood  which  had  arrived  at  maturity  in  the  forest  has 
been  cut  down  of  late  years,  and  replaced  with  young 
plants,  chiefly  oaks,  of  which  about  100,000  are  planted 
every  year.  The  plantations  are  still  more  extensive 
than  the  natural  woods,  and  have  been  principally 
formed  by  the  Earl  of  Moray,  who,  between  the  years 
1767  and  1/91,  planted  10,591,000  trees,  of  which 
9,687,000  were  Scotch  firs,  596,000  oaks,  and  the  re- 
mainder various  kinds  of  forest  trees.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2774. 

Dunphail  House  is  an  elegant  mansion  built  after  a 
design  by  Mr.  Playfair,  in  1829,  and  situated  on  a 
terrace  on  the  bank  of  the  Divie,  in  a  demesne  tastefully 
laid  out  in  parterres  and  shrubberies,  and  richly  embel- 
lished with  plantations.  The  scenery,  which  is  beau- 
tifully picturesque,  is  heightened  by  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  castle,  which  are  seen  from  the  house  rising 
above  the  trees  that  surround  the  base.  Relugas  House 
is  a  handsome  mansion  seated  in  a  demesne  between  the 
rivers  Findhorn  and  Dorback  ;  it  has  been  enlarged  by 
an  addition  of  a  noble  suite  of  apartments,  ninety-six 
feet  in  length,  within  the  last  fifteen  years,  and  the 
grounds  are  finely  planted.  Logie  House  is  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Findhorn  ;  and  a  handsome  shooting-lodge 
has  been  erected  by  the  Hon.  John  Stuart,  and  is 
occupied  during  the  season  by  various  members  of  the 
Moray  family.  The  only  village  is  a  cluster  of  houses 
at  Conicaval,  situated  in  the  north.  There  are  two 
small  inns  in  the  parish  ;  and  facility  of  communication 
with  Forres  and  the  adjacent  towns  is  afforded  by  the 
road  from  Forres  to  Perth,  by  excellent  roads  formed 
by  Sir  William  G.  G.  Cumming,  of  Altyre,  Bart., 
and  others  by  Charles  L.  Cumming  Bruce,  Esq. ;  and  by 
substantial  bridges  over  the  Divie  and  Dorback,  to  re- 
place those  destroyed  by  floods  in  1S29.  The  ecclesi- 
astical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
presbytery  of  Forres  and  synod  of  Moray.  The  minis- 
ter's stipend  is  £180,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued 
at  £12  per  annum;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Moray.  The 
church,  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river  Divie,  is  a 
plain  structure  built  in  1741,  and  repaired  in  1S13,  and 
contains  500  sittings.  The  parochial  school  is  well  con- 
ducted ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £16  ;  he  has  also  an 
allowance  from  the  trustees  of  Dick's  bequest.  There 
are  schools  at  Conicaval  and  Tullydivie,  both  supported 
by  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge ; 
and  at  Halfdavoch  is  a  female  school,  to  the  mistress  of 
which  Sir  William  Cumming  pays  £5  per  annum. 
There  are  some  remains,  as  already  noticed,  of  the 
ancient  castle  of  Dunphail,  of  the  foundation  of  which 
there  is  no  authentic  record  :  after  the  battle  of  the 
Standard,  the  fortress  was  besieged  by  Randolph,  Earl 
of  Moray,  and  gallantly  defended  by  Cummin,  its  pro- 
prietor. The  Doune  hill  of  Relugas  is  of  very  great 
antiquity,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  a  stronghold  to 
which  the  inhabitants  of  the  district  retired  with  their 
cattle,  on  the  frequent  irruption  of  the  Danes ;  it  is  a 
conical  hill  of  very  precipitous  ascent,  nearly  surrounded 
Vol.  I.— 393 


at  the  base  by  the  Divie,  and,  where  undefended  by  the 
river,  strongly  intrenched  with  ramparts  of  stone.  By 
some  antiquaries  it  is  connected  with  a  chain  of  signal- 
posts  used  in  times  of  danger,  and  is  said  to  have  been 
at  one  time  occupied  by  the  Romans,  who  are  thought 
to  have  had  a  chain  of  similar  forts  extending  from 
Forres  to  Brae-Mar,  and  thence  to  Perth. 

EDINVILLE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Dallas, 
county  of  Elgin  ;   containing  17  inhabitants. 

EDMONDSTONE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  New- 
ton, county  of  Edinburgh,  3|  miles  (S.  E.  by  E.)  from 
Edinburgh;  containing  143  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  the 
western  part  of  the  parish,  and  is  one  of  several  small 
villages  within  its  limits,  of  which  some  consist  of  long 
rows  of  red-tiled  houses,  chiefly  inhabited  by  colliers. 
The  road  from  Edinburgh  to  Dalkeith  passes  at  a  short 
distance  on  the  south  ;  and  a  little  westward  of  the 
village  is  Edmondstone  House,  an  elegant  residence 
finely  situated  amidst  beautiful  plantations. 

EDNAM,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kelso,  county 
of  Roxburgh  ;  containing  615  inhabitants,  of  whom 
146  are  in  the  village,  2$  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Kelso. 
The  name  of  this  parish,  which  is  a  contraction  of  the 
word  Edenham,  signifies  a  hamlet  on  the  Eden,  and  is 
descriptive  of  the  situation  of  the  village  near  that  river. 
Little  is  known  concerning  the  very  early  history  of  the 
place,  the  few  well-authenticated  facts  relating  only  to 
its  ecclesiastical  affairs,  and  reaching  no  further  back 
than  the  twelfth  century.  About  this  period  the  church 
had  two  chapels  attached  to  it,  the  one  at  a  place  in  the 
parish  called  Newton  or  New-town,  to  distinguish  it 
from  the  old  village  of  Ednam,  and  the  other  situated 
at  Naithan's-thirn  or  Nanthorn.  Robert,  Bishop  of  St. 
Andrew's,  who  died  in  1158,  ratified  the  connexion  be- 
tween the  parochial  church  and  the  chapel  of  Newton  ; 
and  Bishop  Arnold,  who  died  in  1162,  confirmed  to  the 
monks  of  Coldingham  the  possession  of  all  the  three 
places  of  worship.  There  was  also  an  hospital,  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Lawrence,  and  supposed  to  have  been 
founded  by  the  Edmonstons  of  Ednam,  who  were  its 
patrons;  it  is  referred  to  in  1348,  in  a  writ  of  Edward 
III.,  who  therein  directs  that  the  establishment,  with  the 
hospital  of  St.  Mary  of  Berwick,  should  be  restored  to 
Robert  de  Burton. 

The  parish  is  nearly  square  in  form,  its  length  being 
three  miles  and  a  quarter,  and  its  breadth  three  miles, 
and  it  contains  5500  acres.  The  surface  is  pleasantly 
varied  by  undulations  and  gently-rising  hills,  well  culti- 
vated, or  covered  with  rich  verdure  and  flourishing 
plantations ;  and  the  parish  being  only  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  distant  from  the  English  border,  the  scenery 
partakes  very  much  of  the  general  character  of  that  on 
each  side  of  the  Tweed.  Ednam  hill,  on  the  east  of 
the  village,  forms  an  interesting  object  in  the  picture  ; 
it  is  arable  to  the  summit,  and  commands  an  extensive 
view  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  river  Eden  con- 
stitutes another  striking  feature  in  the  parish,  flowing 
through  a  district  ornamented  with  hedge-rows  and 
with  numerous  clumps  of  trees  standing  in  the  midst  of 
well-cultivated  fields  :  on  the  south-east  runs  the  Tweed. 
The  soil  in  some  parts  consists  of  loam  resting  upon  a 
gravelly  subsoil,  and  in  others  it  is  clay,  with  a  less 
retentive  subsoil  than  is  usually  found  in  such  situa- 
tions ;  upon  the  same  subsoil,  likewise,  there  is  light 
gravelly  earth,  and  in  some  places  the  soil  is  moorish. 

3  E 


ED  RO 


ED  RO 


These  four  different  descriptions  are  found  in  nearly 
equal  portions.  The  cultivated  land  consists  of  about 
3*00  acres,  two-fifths  of  which  are  in  grain,  two  in  pas- 
ture and  hay,  and  one  in  turnips  and  fallow ;  seventy 
acres  are  in  pasture  along  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  forty 
in  pleasure-grounds,  and  about  seventy  in  plantations. 
Grain  of  all  kinds  is  produced,  with  good  crops  of  pota- 
toes, turnips,  and  hay.  The  cattle  are  those  usually 
termed  the  short-horned,  and  the  sheep  are  of  the  Lei- 
cester breed,  of  which  kind  a  flock  was  lately  reared  by 
one  of  the  farmers  of  so  superior  a  description  that  it 
excited  the  attention  of  agriculturists  in  distant  parts 
of  the  kingdom.  The  lands  are  highly  cultivated,  and 
husbandry  is  thoroughly  understood  ;  the  soil  is  well 
drained,  and  embankments  have  been  constructed  to  a 
considerable  extent.  The  whole  of  the  substratum  is 
calcareous,  with  very  few  exceptions ;  no  quarries  are 
■wrought.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£8329. 

There  is  a  mansion-house  named  Hendersyde,  a 
handsome  modern  building,  the  residence  of  one  of  the 
heritors.  The  village  is  neat  in  its  appearance,  the 
houses  being  regularly  built,  and  covered  with  tiles  or 
slate  ;  the  woollen  manufacture  was  once  carried  on, 
and  there  is  still  a  brewery.  The  river  Eden,  which  rises 
in  the  parish  of  Gordon,  and  divides  that  of  Ednam  into 
two  parts,  flows  close  to  the  village,  and  has  two  stone 
and  two  wooden  bridges  in  the  parish,  all  in  the  best  state 
of  repair  :  three  turnpike-roads,  one  of  them  between 
Berwick  and  Kelso,  intersect  the  parish,  and  there  are 
several  other  roads.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  sub- 
ject to  the  presbytery  of  Kelso  and  synod  of  Merse  and 
Teviotdale ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  stipend,  with  an 
allowance  for  communion  elements,  is  £158.  6.  8.,  of 
which  £111  are  payable  from  the  land,  and  the  rest 
from  the  exchequer ;  an  excellent  manse  was  finished  in 
1834,  and  there  is  a  glebe  of  the  annual  value  of  £15. 
The  church  stands  near  the  village,  and  accommodates 
about  260  persons ;  it  was  built  in  1S00,  and  is  in  good 
repair.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  mathe- 
matics and  French  are  taught,  with  all  the  ordinary 
branches  of  education ;  the  master  has  the  maximum 
salary,  with  about  £36  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden. 
Thomson,  author  of  the  Seasons,  was  born  in  the  manse, 
his  father,  the  Rev.  Thomas  Thomson,  being  minister 
of  Ednam  ;  and  in  1820,  an  obelisk,  fifty-two  feet  in 
height,  was  erected  to  his  memory,  on  some  rising 
ground  about  a  mile  from  the  village,  at  the  expense  of 
the  Ednam  Club,  an  association  of  gentlemen  who  an- 
nually celebrated  the  poet's  birthday  here.  Mr.  William 
Dawson,  the  distinguished  agriculturist,  who  introduced 
turnip  husbandry  into  Scotland,  was  also  a  native  of  the 
parish. 

EDROM,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Berwick, 
3  miles  (N.  E.  by  E.)  from  Dunse ;  containing,  with  the 
village  of  Allanton,  1415  inhabitants.  This  place,  of 
which  the  name,  anciently  Aderham,  is  said  to  have 
been  derived  from  the  situation  of  its  village  near  the 
river  Whiteadder,  is  distinguished  as  the  scene  of  the 
death  of  Sir  Anthony  D'Arcy,  a  native  of  France,  who, 
in  1517,  was  appointed  warden  of  the  marches  and 
governor  of  Dunbar  Castle,  in  the  room  of  Lord  Home, 
by  the  Duke  of  Albany,  regent  of  Scotland  during  the 
minority  of  James  V.  D'Arcy  is  supposed  to  have  in- 
veigled his  predecessor  to  Edinburgh,  where,  with  his 
394 


brother,  Home  was  treacherously  put  to  death  ;  and  in 
retaliation  of  this,  David  Home,  laird  of  Wedderburn, 
attacked  D'Arcy  and  his  party  at  Langton,  and  put 
them  to  flight,  and  D'Arcy's  horse  being  engulphed  in  a 
bog,  he  was  compelled  to  fly  on  foot,  and  was  overtaken 
at  Broomhouse,  in  this  parish,  by  the  laird  of  Wedder- 
burn, who  killed  him  on  the  spot,  and  carrying  his 
head  in  triumph  through  Dunse  moor,  fixed  it  on  the 
battlements  of  Home  Castle.  In  1674,  a  very  large 
meeting  of  Covenanters  assembled  at  East  Nisbet  for 
the  purpose  of  celebrating  the  sacrament,  at  which 
more  than  3000  communicated.  The  parish  is  about 
five  miles  and  a  half  in  average  length,  and  two  miles 
and  a  half  in  average  breadth,  and  comprises  8400 
acres,  of  which  7500  are  arable,  600  woodland  and 
plantations,  and  the  remainder  rough  pasture  and  waste. 
The  surface  is  generally  flat,  with  a  slight  degree  of  ac- 
clivity ;  and  the  scenery,  which  is  enlivened  by  the 
windings  of  rivers,  and  enriched  with  woods  and  plan- 
tations, is  in  many  parts  exceedingly  picturesque.  The 
Whiteadder  forms  the  northern  boundary  of  the  parish 
for  nearly  six  miles,  and,  after  embellishing  much  beauti- 
ful scenery,  falls  into  the  Tweed  within  two  miles  of 
Berwick  :  the  Blackadder,  a  stream  about  fifty  feet  in 
breadth,  intersects  the  parish,  dividing  it  into  two  almost 
equal  portions,  and,  after  a  course  of  about  six  miles 
within  its  limits,  flows  into  the  Whiteadder  at  the  vil- 
lage of  Allanton. 

The  soil  in  some  parts  is  shallow  and  poor,  in  others 
a  rich  and  fertile  clay,  with  some  tracts  of  barren  moor- 
land ;  the  crops  are,  grain  of  all  kinds,  with  potatoes 
and  turnips.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  ad- 
vanced state,  and  the  five-shift  course  of  husbandry 
is  generally  prevalent ;  the  lands  are  well  drained  and 
inclosed,  the  farm-houses  and  offices  substantially  built, 
and  all  the  more  recent  improvements  in  agricultural 
implements  have  been  adopted.  Great  numbers  of 
sheep  of  various  breeds,  with  a  cross  between  the  Lei- 
cestershire and  Cheviot,  are  annually  reared,  and  also 
many  cattle  are  pastured.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £15,020.  The  woods  and  plantations 
are  in  a  thriving  condition ;  the  former  consist  of  the 
usual  varieties  of  hard-woods,  and  the  plantations,  of 
fir,  intermixed  with  different  kinds  of  forest  trees  :  the 
thinning  of  the  wood  on  one  estate  produces  a  return  of 
£300  per  annum.  The  substrata  are  chiefly  clay,  marl, 
and  sandstone,  of  which  the  rocks  in  the  parish  are 
usually  composed  ;  the  sandstone  is  of  a  whitish  colour, 
occurs  in  beds  varying  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  thick- 
ness, and  is  quarried  in  several  parts.  Red  sandstone, 
resting  on  conglomerate,  is  also  found,  and  there  is  an 
extensive  tract  of  shell-marl  bog  on  the  lands  of  Kim- 
merghame,  from  which  great  quantities  of  marl  have 
been  obtained,  and  of  which  one  cubic  yard  is  con- 
sidered to  be  equal  in  efficacy  to  a  boll  of  lime.  In 
draining  this  bog  and  removing  the  marl,  several 
beavers'  heads  and  deers'  horns  were  discovered. 

Broom  House,  one  of  the  seats  in  the  parish,  is  a 
spacious  and  handsome  mansion  erected  in  1813,  on 
the  site  of  an  ancient  baronial  castle  :  in  excavating  for 
the  foundation,  several  human  skeletons  were  found, 
one  of  which,  perfectly  entire,  was  inclosed  in  a  stone 
coffin.  Within  the  grounds  is  the  grave  of  D'Arcy. 
Nisbet  House  is  a  fine  castellated  mansion,  beautifully 
situated ;   Kimmerghame  is  an  ancient  mansion  on  the 


E  D  Z  E 


ED  ZE 


Blackadder ;  and  Kelloe,  Allanbank,  and  Blackadder 
House,  are  all  handsome  residences,  likewise  seated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Blackadder.  In  the  grounds  of  the  last  is  a 
beautiful  conservatory  in  the  early  English  style  of  archi- 
tecture ;  the  frame  is  of  cast  iron,  and  the  windows, 
enriched  with  elegant  tracery,  are  embellished  with  stained 
glass,  the  whole  raised  by  the  late  Thomas  Boswall, 
Esq.,  at  an  expense  of  several  thousand  pounds.  Edrom 
House  is  beautifully  situated,  commanding  some  very 
rich  scenery,  with  distant  views  of  the  hills  of  Dunse 
and  Cockburn,  and  the  Lammermoor  and  Cheviot  hills. 
There  are  three  corn-mills  on  the  Blackadder,  to  two  of 
which  is  added  machinery  for  sawing  timber ;  and  on  the 
Whiteadder  is  a  paper-mill,  chiefly  for  the  manufacture 
of  printing  and  writing  papers,  and  which  is  con- 
ducted on  a  very  extensive  scale,  affording  occupation 
to  eighty  persons.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Chirnside  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and 
patronage  of  the  Crown ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£242.  16.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per 
annum.  The  present  church,  erected  in  1732,  and  sub- 
sequently repaired,  is  a  spacious  and  neat  edifice, 
adapted  for  a  congregation  of  450  persons  :  from  several 
inscriptions,  with  ancient  dates,  it  would  appear  that 
portions  of  the  old  church  have  been  incorporated  with 
the  building.  The  parochial  school  is  well  attended  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £15  fees,  a  house, 
and  an  allowance  in  money  in  lieu  of  garden.  There 
are  three  libraries  in  the  parish  for  the  use  of  young 
persons,  supported  by  subscription  and  donations. 

EDWARD,  KING,  county  Aberdeen. — See  King- 
Edward. 

EDZELL,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county  of  Kin- 
cardine, but  chiefly  in  that  of  Forfar,  6  miles 
(N.  by  W.)  from  Brechin  ;  containing  1064  inhabitants, 
of  whom  290  are  in  the  village.  This  place,  in  old  re- 
cords designated  Edziel,  perhaps  derives  its  name  from 
a  Gaelic  term  signifying  "  the  cleft,"  or  "  dividing  of  the 
waters:"  The  most  ancient  proprietors  of  land  are  said 
to  have  been  a  family  of  the  name  of  Stirling,  from 
whom  considerable  property  came  by  marriage  to  the 
Lindsays  of  Glenesk,  who  possessed  nearly  the  whole 
of  the  parish,  and  have  left  a  memorial  of  their  con- 
nexion with  the  place  in  the  exemption,  remaining  to 
this  day,  of  the  lands  of  Edzell  from  the  payment  of 
custom  at  the  great  June  fair  of  Brechin.  About  the 
year  1/14  the  estates  were  purchased  by  the  Earl  of 
Panmure,  who  was  wounded  at  Sheriffmuir,  and  the 
property,  with  the  earl's  other  estates,  afterwards  es- 
cheated to  the  crown ;  it  came  subsequently  into  the 
hands  of  the  York  Building  Company,  and  eventually 
passed  by  purchase  to  William,  Earl  of  Panmure,  in 
the  peerage  of  Ireland,  a  near  branch  of  the  family, 
from  whom  it  has  descended  to  the  present  owner. 
The  castle  of  Edzell,  now  an  extensive  ruin,  consists  of 
two  towers,  formerly  connected  by  a  splendid  range 
of  apartments  ;  the  southern  portion,  called  Stirling's 
tower,  is  much  older  than  the  other,  and  is  supposed 
to  have  been  built  and  inhabited  by  the  Stirlings.  The 
fortress  was  occupied  by  a  garrison  of  Cromwell's  in 
1651  ;  and  though  it  ceased  to  be  a  residence  in  1715, 
it  was  held  in  March  or  April,  1746,  by  Colonel  John 
Campbell,  afterwards  Duke  of  Argyll,  who  commanded 
the  Argyll  Highlanders,  when  the  Duke  of  Cumberland 
was  marching  through  the  heart  of  the  country. 
395 


The  parish  lies  on  the  north-east  border  of  Forfar- 
shire. Its  southern  part  is  a  peninsula  about  three 
miles  long  and  two  wide,  formed  by  the  two  branches 
of  the  North  Esk,  called  the  North  and  West  waters ; 
and  at  the  northern  extremity  of  this  peninsular  por- 
tion, where  the  West  water,  entering  the  parish  from 
Lethnot,  takes  a  southerly  direction,  nearly  at  right 
angles  with  its  former  course,  the  parish  expands  in 
width  to  about  four  miles.  The  lands  in  the  north 
are  bordered  by  the  North  water,  or  principal  branch 
of  the  North  Esk,  on  both  sides  for  several  miles. 
About  4270  acres  are  arable,  200  are  under  wood,  of 
which  about  ninety  acres,  chiefly  larch,  were  planted  at 
the  beginning  of  the  present  century ;  and  1060  acres 
are  waste,  affording  only  a  little  pasture,  though  one- 
third  of  the  extent  is  considered  capable  of  improve- 
ment. Besides  these  lands,  there  is  a  hilly  surface  of 
about  forty-six  square  miles,  covered  with  brown  heath, 
with  here  and  there  verdant  patches,  produced  by  the 
moisture  of  neighbouring  springs,  or  the  fertility  of  a 
superior  soil.  The  crops  consist  chiefly  of  oats,  barley, 
potatoes,  turnips,  and  hay  ;  the  farms  in  general  are  of 
moderate  size,  and  in  many  instances  the  obstructions 
presented  by  moors,  moss,  and  high  grounds  forbid 
enlargement.  The  parish  is  wholly  the  property  of 
Lord  Panmure,  with  the  exception  of  the  Kincardine- 
shire portion,  which  is  one-seventh  of  the  whole,  and 
was  formerly  a  separate  parish,  called  New  Dosk,  the 
old  burial-ground  still  remaining.  The  substrata  con- 
sist partly  of  red  sandstone,  exhibiting  several  varieties  ; 
and  granite,  with  some  other  rocks,  is  found.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2991,  of  which 
£486  are  for  Kincardineshire. 

The  village  of  Edzell,  formerly  called  Slateford,  has 
recently  been  much  enlarged  and  improved,  Lord  Pan- 
mure having,  in  1S39,  granted  building-leases  for 
ninety-nine  years  ;  many  good  houses  have  been  erected 
according  to  a  regular  plan,  and  much  benefit  has  re- 
sulted from  the  conditions  requiring  every  tenement  to 
be  raised  with  stone  and  lime,  and  covered  with  slate, 
and  to  have  small  allotments  in  front  for  flowers,  in- 
closed by  low  walls.  The  proprietor  has  lately  erected 
in  the  centre  a  handsome  building  for  a  post-office  and 
reading-room ;  there  is  an  excellent  and  convenient 
inn,  and  many  visiters  take  lodgings  here  in  summer, 
attracted  by  the  salubrity  of  the  locality,  and  the  beau- 
tiful scenery  on  the  North  Esk.  A  mill  for  the  carding 
and  spinning  of  wool,  and  the  manufacture  of  blankets, 
has  been  in  operation  for  some  years  in  the  parish, 
employing  above  thirty  hands,  men  and  women  ;  and 
about  twenty-seven  looms  are  engaged  in  the  manu- 
facture of  coarse  linen  for  an  establishment  at  Montrose, 
On  the  North  Esk  is  a  salmon-fishery,  but  of  inconsi- 
derable value.  The  dairy  produce  is  generally  carried 
for  sale  to  the  market  at  Brechin,  and  the  grain  is 
shipped  at  Montrose.  There  is  a  long-established  fair, 
now  on  the  decline,  in  August ;  and  three  of  more  recent 
date,  originated  by  Lord  Panmure,  for  sheep  and  cattle, 
and  on  the  increase,  are  regularly  held  here  in  the 
months  of  May,  July,  and  October,  respectively.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Brechin  and  synod  of 
Angus  and  Mearns,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown  j 
the  minister  has  a  stipend  of  £158,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £9  per  annum.  The  church  was  erected 
in  the  year  1818,  at  the  end  of  the  village.     The  mem- 

3  E  2 


ELAN 


ELG  A 


bers  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship.  The 
parochial  school,  situated  in  the  village,  affords  in- 
struction in  the  ordinary  branches  ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  £24  fees. 
A  school  has  also  been  established,  and  premises  built, 
in  the  Kincardineshire  district,  by  the  proprietor  of 
that  portion,  John  Gladstone,  Esq.,  of  Fasque  ;  it  has 
an  endowment  of  £10  per  annum,  making  an  income 
for  the  teacher,  together  with  the  school  fees,  of  about 
£24.  At  Colmellie  are  two  Druidical  circles,  and  the 
ancient  place  of  execution  for  the  district  still  retains 
the  name  of  Gallow  Hill :  near  the  West  water  is  the 
burial-place  in  which  stood  the  old  parish  church,  and 
which  is  still  used  by  the  inhabitants,  though  the  edi- 
fice itself  has  been  superseded  by  the  present  church, 
erected  on  a  new  site. 

EIGG,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Small  Isles, 
county  of  Inverness;  containing  546  inhabitants. 
This  is  one  of  a  cluster  of  isles  which  constitute  the 
parish  ;  it  is  about  three  miles  and  a  half  in  length  and 
two  and  a  half  in  breadth,  and  lies  ten  miles  westward 
of  Arisaig  on  the  main  land.  The  whole  shore  is  rocky, 
with  the  exception  of  Lagg  bay,  on  the  west  side ;  the 
surface  is  uneven,  and  diversified  by  hills  covered  with 
heath,  which  in  some  places  is  mixed  with  coarse  grass. 
The  low  grounds  are  tolerably  productive  where  there  is 
a  sufficiency  of  soil,  and  about  a  third  part  of  the  island 
is  arable  and  pasture  land,  the  rest  being  moor  and 
moss,  applied  to  the  rearing  of  cattle,  which  is  the  chief 
occupation  of  the  inhabitants.  The  highest  elevation  is 
towards  the  south,  where  is  a  singularly-formed  hill, 
called  the  Scuir  of  Eigg,  terminating  in  a  lofty  peak, 
said  to  be  1340  feet  in  height,  and  surrounded  by  per- 
pendicular precipices.  Through  the  middle  of  the 
island  runs  a  hollow,  called  in  Gaelic  Eagg,  and  hence 
is  derived  its  name :  on  the  south-eastern  side  are 
several  caves.  There  are  various  Danish  forts  ;  and  a 
barrow  here,  is  said  to  be  the  burial-place  of  Donnan, 
the  tutelary  saint  of  the  island. 

EILDON,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  and  district  of 
Melrose,  county  of  Roxburgh,  1§  mile  (E.  S.  E.) 
from  Melrose ;  containing  56  inhabitants.  It  is  situ- 
ated in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  parish,  and  on  the 
road  from  Melrose  to  Jedburgh.  In  the  vicinity  is  the 
elegant  mansion  of  Eildon  Hall,  surrounded  by  fine 
plantations  ;  and  about  a  mile  westward  are  the  Eildon 
hills,  which  are  partly  in  Bowden  parish.  They  are 
three  in  number,  and  are  of  conical  form,  rising  from 
one  broad  base  ;  the  elevation  of  two  of  them  is  about 
1400  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  north-east  hill  is  chiefly 
remarkable  for  the  vestiges  of  a  regularly-formed  Roman 
camp,  communicating  with  military  stations  on  the  two 
other  hills.  The  views  from  the  summits  are  magnifi- 
cent, and  embrace  a  great  part  of  the  south-eastern 
district  of  Scotland. 

ELAN  A  BHRIU,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Eddra- 
chillis,  county  of  Sutherland.  It  lies  off  the  west- 
ern coast,  and  derives  its  name,  signifying  "  the  Island 
of  the  Judge,"  from  the  bowels  of  Judge  Morrison,  of 
Lewis,  having  been  interred  here,  after  his  murder  by 
Little  John  Mac  Dhoil  Mhich  Huishdan.  The  isle  is 
about  four  acres  in  extent,  and  furnishes  good  pasture 
for  lambs  ;  it  is  always  held  by  the  minister  of  Eddra- 
chillis,  as  the  gift  of  the  noble  family  of  Mac  Kay,  lords 
Reay. 

396 


ELAN  A  GHARIN,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Assynt 
county  of  Sutherland.  It  is  a  small  islet,  off  the 
western  coast,  and  is  attached  to  the  farm  of  Unapool, 
and  appropriated  to  pasturage. 

ELAN  AN  DU,  isles,  in  the  parish  of  Assynt, 
county  of  Sutherland.  They  are  a  small  cluster,  of 
which  the  name  signifies  "  the  black  islands,"  lying,  like 
the  preceding  isles,  off  the  western  coast  of  the  county  ; 
they  are  appropriated  to  pasturage,  but  are  of  little 
value. 

ELAN  MHUIN,  an  isle,  in  the  parishes  of  Appin, 
county  of  Argyll,  and  Kilmalie,  county  of  Inver- 
ness. It  is  situated  in  Loch  Leven,  and  is  of  small 
extent,  with  two  rocky  islets  adjoining  it.  The  island 
is  the  joint  property  of  the  proprietors  of  Calart,  in  In- 
verness, and  of  Glencoe,  in  Argyllshire,  to  whom  the 
rent  of  the  land  is  paid  alternately  ;  and  it  is  therefore 
generally  considered  as  alternately  in  Inverness  and  in 
Argyll. 

ELDERSLIE,  lately  an  ecclesiastical  district,  in  the 
Abbey  parish  of  the  town  of  Paisley,  Upper  ward  of 
the  county  of  Renfrew,  2|  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from 
Paisley;  containing  10S6  inhabitants.  The  village, 
which  is  on  the  road  from  Paisley  to  Beith,  is  distin- 
guished as  the  birthplace  of  the  celebrated  Sir  William 
Wallace,  who  was  born  in  an  ancient  house  near  its 
western  extremity.  In  the  garden  of  the  house,  close 
to  the  foundation  of  the  wall,  a  stone  was  dug  up, 
bearing  the  inscription  W.  W.  W.,  with  the  legend 
"  Christ  is  only  my  Redeemer,"  and  which  is  preserved 
in  the  cabinet  of  Alexander  Speirs,  Esq.,  of  Elderslie ; 
and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  is  an  old  tree 
called  Wallace's  tree,  in  which  that  hero  concealed  him- 
self when  pursued  by  his  enemies.  The  village  is  plea- 
santly situated,  and  is  abundantly  supplied  with  water 
from  numerous  fine  springs,  of  which  one,  discovered 
while  boring  for  coal,  is  called  the  Bore.  The  inhabit- 
ants are  chiefly  engaged  in  weaving,  and  also  in  the 
spinning  of  cotton,  for  which  two  extensive  mills  have 
been  erected,  affording  employment  to  about  400  per- 
sons. The  Glasgow,  Paisley,  and  Johnstone  canal, 
and  the  Glasgow,  Paisley,  and  Ayr  railway,  which 
pass  in  the  vicinity,  afford  ample  facilities  of  commu- 
nication. The  ecclesiastical  district  included  also  the 
villages  of  Quarrelton  and  Thorn,  and  was  about  three 
miles  in  length,  and  one  mile  in  average  breadth  :  the 
church  is  a  neat  structure  in  the  later  English  style  of 
architecture,  erected  by  subscription,  and  containing 
about  800  sittings. 

ELDRIG,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Mochrum, 
county  of  Wigton,  3  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Port- 
William  ;  containing  217  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in 
the  south-west  part  of  the  parish,  and  in  the  vicinity  of 
a  stream  which  flows  from  Loch  Eldrig  into  Luce 
bay. 

ELGAR,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Shapinsay,  county 
of  Orkney.  This  place,  also  called  Eller-Holm,  lies  a 
little  to  the  south  of  the  island  of  Shapinsay,  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  a  reef  of  rocks  that  are  almost 
dry  at  low  water.  It  furnishes  pasture  for  a  number  of 
sheep  and  young  cattle  in  summer,  and  gives,  by  its 
favourable  situation,  the  utmost  security  to  the  fine 
harbour  ofElwick.  There  are  evident  marks  of  its  hav- 
ing been  formerly  inhabited,  though  at  present  no  one 
resides  upon  it. 


E  L  G  I 


E  LGI 


Bur  ah  Seal. 


ELGIN,  a  burgh,  mar- 
ket-town, and  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Elgin,  of  which  it 
jg\  is  the  capital,  63^  miles  (N. 
§§;  W.)  from  Aberdeen,  and  174 
(N.)  from  Edinburgh  ;  con- 
taining 5216  inhabitants,  of 
whom  4325  are  in  the  town. 
This  place  appears  to  have 
derived  its  name  and  found- 
ation from  Elgin,  or  Hel- 
gyn,  general  of  the  arm)'  of 
Sigurd,  the  Norwegian  Earl 
of  Orkney,  who,  about  the  year  930,  made  himself 
master  of  Caithness,  Sutherland,  Ross,  and  Moray,  in 
the  southern  part  of  which  last  district  he  built  a  town, 
supposed  to  be  the  origin  of  the  present,  a  few  miles 
from  the  small  harbour  of  Burgh-Head,  where  the  Nor- 
wegians kept  their  shipping.  A  castle  seems  to  have 
been  erected  at  an  early  period,  either  for  the  defence  of 
the  town,  or  as  a  residence  for  its  founder ;  and  on  some 
rising  ground  called  Lady  hill,  there  are  still  traces  of 
an  ancient  fortress  which,  in  the  reigns  of  William  the 
Lion  and  Alexander  I.  and  II.,  is  said  to  have  been  a 
favourite  resort  and  an  occasional  residence  of  those 
monarchs.  A  charter  of  William  is  yet  extant,  in  which 
that  king  grants  to  the  Bishop  of  Moray  an  annual  pay- 
ment out  of  the  fee-farm  rent  of  "  his  burgh  of  Elgin  ;" 
and  in  1224,  Alexander  II.  sanctioned  the  removal  of 
the  seat  of  that  diocese  to  Elgin,  where  a  cathedral  was 
erected,  and  also  an  episcopal  palace.  The  town  thus  be- 
came distinguished,  and  in  ecclesiastical  affairs  obtained  a 
degree  of  importance  inferior  to  the  cities  of  St.  Andrew's 
and  Glasgow  alone.  In  1269,  Alexander  III.  bestowed 
upon  the  inhabitants  all  the  liberties  and  privileges  of  a 
royal  burgh;  and  Robert  I.,  in  his  charter  granting  the 
earldom  of  Moray  to  Thomas  Ranulf,  expressly  stipulates 
that  the  burgesses  of  Elgin,  in  holding  under  the  earl, 
should  retain  all  their  accustomed  rights  as  fully  as  when 
they  held  them  immediately  under  the  charter  of  Alex- 
ander III.  The  town  appears  to  have  suffered  severely 
at  various  times,  and  to  have  been  frequently  destroyed 
by  fire.  In  1390,  the  Earl  of  Moray  conferred  upon  the 
burgesses  an  exemption  from  certain  sums  paid  to  his 
castle,  in  consequence  of  the  various  calamities  to  which 
they  had  been  exposed ;  and  his  successor  soon  after- 
wards remitted  to  them  the  customary  dues  on  wool, 
cloth,  and  all  other  merchandise  exported  from  the  har- 
bour of  Spey,  in  consideration  of  the  same  or  similar 
disasters.  Archibald  Douglas,  Earl  of  Moray,  in  1451, 
bestowed  a  charter  reciting  and  confirming  that  of  Alex- 
ander III.  ;  and  Chai-les  I.  of  England,  in  1633,  ratified 
all  previous  grants  by  his  predecessors  in  favour  of  the 
burgh,  of  which  the  form  of  government  was  finally 
settled  by  an  act  of  the  convention  of  burghs  in  the  year 
1706. 

The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  river  Lossie,  which  forms  the  boundary  of  the  parish 
for  some  distance  ;  and  is  sheltered  in  the  rear  by  a 
richly-wooded  and  gently-sloping  height,  in  the  form  of 
a  crescent,  which  protects  it  from  the  severer  winds. 
It  is  irregularly  built,  but  contains  several  good  houses 
and  handsome  villas  of  recent  erection  ;  the  streets  are 
paved,  and  lighted  with  gas  by  a  voluntary  assessment, 
and  a  contribution  of  £30  annually  from  the  funds  of 
397 


the  burgh.  The  inhabitants  were  until  recently  only 
supplied  with  water  from  the  river,  and  from  wells  sunk 
in  different  parts  of  the  town ;  but  they  have  now  a 
more  adequate  and  convenient  supply,  derived  from  a 
spring  in  the  hills,  four  miles  distant  to  the  south  of 
Elgin,  and  conveyed  by  pipes  to  the  houses.  There  is 
an  extensive  circulating  library,  containing  many  well- 
selected  volumes  of  history  and  general  literature  ;  and  a 
literary  association,  established  in  1818,  is  supported  by 
subscription,  and  has  a  well-assorted  library  of  more  than 
700  volumes,  with  a  reading-room  recently  added  to  it, 
supplied  with  newspapers  and  periodical  works.  The  Mo- 
rayshire Farmers'  Club,  established  in  1799,  holds  its  an- 
nual meetings  here  for  the  encouragement  of  husbandry, 
and,  by  the  distribution  of  prizes  to  all  successful  competi- 
tors within  the  surrounding  district,  has  greatly  tended  to 
the  interest  and  improvement  of  this  part  of  the  country  : 
an  extensive  and  valuable  library  has  been  formed  by  the 
club,  which  contains  a  numerous  collection  of  standard 
works  on  agriculture.  There  are  no  manufactures  pur- 
sued to  any  extent ;  the  traffic  is  principally  in  grain, 
which  is  sent  to  different  markets,  and,  among  others, 
to  Leith,  Liverpool,  and  London.  A  very  extensive 
trade  in  flour  has  long  been  carried  on  with  Aberdeen 
and  other  towns  in  that  county,  and  also  in  the  county 
of  Banff;  and  it  has  lately  increased.  There  are  in  the 
town  a  tannery  and  some  breweries,  and  near  it  two  dis- 
tilleries ;  the  shops  are  well  supplied  with  articles  of 
merchandise,  and  several  of  the  inhabitants  are  em- 
ployed in  various  handicraft  trades. 

A  considerable  degree  of  foreign  trade  appears  to  have 
been  once  carried  on,  and  in  169S  a  harbour  was  con- 
structed at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Lossie,  in  the  parish  of 
Drainie,  about  five  miles  from  Elgin,  by  the  town  council, 
who  received  the  anchorage  and  shore  dues.  These  dues, 
however,  were  by  no  means  adequate  to  keep  the  harbour 
in  an  efficient  state  of  repair,  and  until  the  recent  con- 
struction of  Stotfield  harbour  the  retail  dealers  in  the 
town  consequently  obtained  their  principal  London 
goods  by  smacks  trading  to  Inverness,  which  sometimes 
landed  them  at  Burgh-Head  ;  articles  of  lighter  weight 
were  generally  brought  by  steam-boats  to  Aberdeen,  and 
forwarded  thence  by  land-carriage.  Considerable  quanti- 
ties of  grain  are  nevertheless  shipped,  and  coal  is  landed, 
at  the  harbour  of  Lossiemouth,  where  there  is  a  small 
village  for  the  residence  of  persons  connected  with  the 
port;  but,  from  the  want  of  sufficient  depth  of  water, 
only  vessels  of  very  small  burthen  can  enter.  A  joint- 
stock  company  was  recently  formed  for  constructing 
a  harbour  at  Stotfield  point,  at  a  very  inconsiderable 
distance  from  Lossiemouth;  and  the  completion  of  this 
important  work  has  opened  a  direct  communication  with 
the  London  and  other  markets  for  agricultural  produce 
at  less  expense,  and  to  a  much  greater  extent,  than  was 
formerly  practicable.  The  market,  which  is  on  Tuesday 
and  Friday,  is  abundantly  supplied  with  grain,  poultry, 
butter,  and  provisions  of  all  kinds  ;  fairs  are  held  in  the 
town  on  the  Fridays  preceding  Martinmas  and  Whit- 
suntide, for  the  hiring  of  farm-servants  and  the  sale  of 
various  wares,  and  ten  fairs  are  annually  held  in  the 
vicinity  for  cattle  and  horses.  Facility  of  communica- 
tion is  afforded  by  excellent  turnpike-roads  branching 
off  from  the  town  in  every  direction;  the  great  north 
road  passes  through  it.  The  post-office  has  a  tolerably 
good  delivery. 


E  L  G  1 


ELGI 


The  burgh,  under  its  charter,  was  governed  by  a  pro- 
vost, four  bailies,  a  treasurer,  dean  of  guild,  and  ten 
others,  who  formed  the  town  council ;  but  since  the 
passing  of  the  Municipal  Reform  act,  the  controul  has 
been  vested  in  seventeen  councillors,  together  with  a 
provost,  town-clerk,  and  other  officers,  elected  under  the 
authority,  and  subject  to  the  regulations,  of  that  act. 
There  are  six  incorporated  guilds,  the  shoemakers, 
tailors,  hammermen,  glovers,  wrights,  and  weavers,  all 
of  which,  except  the  weavers,  claim  the  privilege  of  ex- 
clusively carrying  on  their  trades  within  the  burgh.  The 
freedom  is  obtained  by  birth,  by  servitude  to  a  freeman 
of  the  incorporated  guilds,  or  by  purchase  for  the  sum 
of  £16,  which  has  been  fixed  by  the  town  council  for  all 
indiscriminately,  though  previously  the  payment  varied 
according  to  the  practice  of  the  different  guilds.  The 
magistrates  exercise  both  civil  and  criminal  jurisdiction 
within  the  limits  of  the  burgh,  and  over  all  lands  held 
under  burgage  tenure  ;  but  since  the  establishment  of  the 
sheriff's  court  few  civil  actions  have  been  tried ;  and  in 
their  criminal  jurisdiction,  the  magistrates  invariably 
confine  themselves  to  the  adjudication  of  petty  offences. 
The  burgh  is  the  head  of  an  elective  district,  and,  with 
the  burghs  of  Cullen,  Banff,  Peterhead,  Kintore,  and 
Inverury,  returns  one  member  to  the  imperial  parlia- 
ment ;  the  right  of  election  is,  by  the  Reform  act,  vested 
in  the  resident  £10  householders.  The  number  of  voters 
within  the  municipal  boundaries  is  213,  of  whom  ninety- 
five  are  burgesses  ;  and  of  similar  residents  beyond  the 
municipal,  but  within  the  parliamentary  limits,  fifty,  of 
whom  six  are  burgesses.  Of  £5  householders  within 
the  burgh  the  number  is  110,  of  whom  forty  are  bur- 
gesses. The  election  of  the  member  takes  place  here, 
and  the  assizes  and  sessions  for  the  county  are  also  held 
in  the  town.  The  old  county  hall  and  gaol,  both  very 
indifferent  buildings,  have  been  superseded  by  a  new 
and  elegant  edifice. 

The  parish,  which  is  of  very  irregular  form,  com- 
prises 11,500  acres;  7000  are  arable,  1500  woodland 
and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  rough  pasture  and 
waste.  The  surface  is  varied  :  from  the  town  it  has 
a  gentle  acclivity  towards  the  base  of  the  Blackhills  ; 
and  to  the  west  of  the  river  it  is  divided,  by  a  precipi- 
tous ridge  of  considerable  elevation,  into  the  vales  of 
Pluscardine  and  Mosstowie.  The  scenery  is  generally 
of  a  pleasing  character,  and  in  many  parts  beautifully 
picturesque  and  romantic.  The  river  Lossie,  which 
rises  in  the  hills  of  Dallas,  skirts  the  parish  to  the 
north,  and  in  other  parts  winds  through  it  with  a  silent 
course,  frequently  overflowing,  and  doing  considerable 
damage  to  the  adjoining  fields  :  after  a  course  of  about 
eight  miles,  it  falls  into  the  Moray  Frith  at  the  village 
of  Lossiemouth.  The  soil  is  various  ;  most  of  the  ara- 
ble land  is  of  a  light  and  sandy  quality ;  in  some  parts 
inclining  to  clay ;  and  in  others,  especially  near  the 
river,  a  deep  rich  loam.  The  crops  are,  wheat,  oats, 
barley  of  the  Chevalier  kind,  which,  from  its  adaptation 
to  the  soil,  is  raised  in  great  quantities,  potatoes,  and 
turnips.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  improved ;  lime 
and  bone-dust  are  extensively  used  for  manure  ;  the 
lands  are  well  drained  and  inclosed  ;  the  farm-houses 
and  offices  are  substantial  and  commodious,  and  those 
of  the  larger  farms  are  built  of  stone,  and  roofed  with 
slate.  Threshing-mills  have  been  erected,  several  of 
which  are  driven  by  water  ;  there  are  numerous  mills 
398 


for  grain,  a  mill  for  carding  wool,  and  one  for  sawing 
timber.  Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  breed  of  cattle 
and  horses ;  the  prevailing  breed  of  cattle  is  a  black 
kind  resembling  the  Aberdeenshire,  but  inferior  in  size, 
with  an  occasional  cross  of  the  short-horned  :  very  few 
sheep  are  reared.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £15,592.  The  plantations  consist  of  Scotch, 
and  spruce  firs  and  larch,  intermixed  with  every  variety 
of  forest  trees ;  they  are  under  careful  management,  and 
in  a  very  flourishing  state.  The  principal  substratum 
is  sandstone,  of  which  the  ridge  separating  the  valleys 
of  Pluscardine  and  Mosstowie  is  chiefly  composed. 
Limestone,  also,  is  found  near  the  town,  of  a  dark 
colour,  in  some  parts  alternated  with  sand  and  clay; 
it  is  quarried  for  building  and  other  purposes,  and 
burnt  into  lime  for  manure,  and  for  making  mortar  for 
the  use  of  builders.  Westerton,  the  seat  of  Lieut.-Col. 
Alexander  Hay,  is  a  handsome  modern  mansion  beau- 
tifully situated  in  the  romantic  vale  of  Pluscardine, 
commanding  a  view  of  the  ruins  of  the  abbey  and  the 
richly-wooded  grounds  of  the  Earl  of  Fife. 

The  parish  is  the  seat  of  a  presbytery,  and  of  the 
synod  of  Moray  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  There  are  two 
ministers,  each  of  whom  has  a  stipend  of  £241  ;  one 
minister  has  a  manse,  but  the  other  has  neither  manse 
nor  allowance  in  lieu  ;  the  glebe  is  equally  divided. 
A  home  mission  for  the  remoter  parts  of  the  parish 
has  been  maintained  for  more  than  a  century,  from 
the  funds  of  the  Royal  Bounty  and  the  interest  of 
some  legacies  bequeathed  for  the  purpose,  and  the 
minister  dispenses  the  ordinances  of  religion  to  more 
than  600  persons.  The  parish  church,  situated  in  the 
centre  of  the  town,  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the 
old  church  of  St.  Giles,  which  had  become  dilapidated ; 
it  is  an  elegant  structure  of  freestone,  in  the  Grecian 
style  of  architecture,  with  a  noble  portico  at  the  west 
end  of  six  columns  of  the  Doric  order,  having  an  enta- 
blature and  cornice  surmounted  with  a  triangular  pedi- 
ment. At  the  east  end  is  a  square  tower  supporting  a 
circular  campanile  turret,  surrounded  with  columns. 
The  interior  of  the  edifice  is  neatly  fitted  up,  well 
arranged,  and  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  ISOO 
persons  ;  the  church  was  completed  at  an  expense  of 
£8300,  and  was  opened  for  divine  service  in  October, 
1828.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
United  Secession,  members  of  the  Free  Church,  Original 
Seceders,  Baptists,  and  Independents,  and  an  episcopal 
and  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel.  The  Elgin  academy,  partly 
supported  by  endowment,  and  partly  from  the  common 
funds  of  the  burgh,  comprises  three  schools,  each  under 
the  direction  of  a  master ;  the  classical  master  has  a 
salary  of  £50  per  annum,  and  the  mathematical  and 
English  masters  a  salary  of  £45  each.  The  late  James 
Mc  Andrew,  Esq.,  of  Elgin,  bequeathed  £200,  the  inter- 
est to  be  distributed  in  prizes  to  three  boys  in  the  clas- 
sical school.  The  Elgin  institution  for  the  support  of 
old  age  and  the  instruction  of  young  persons,  established 
and  endowed  by  Lieut.-Gen.  Andrew  Anderson,  E.  I.  C.  S., 
affords  accommodation  for  ten  aged  and  infirm  persons, 
and  for  sixty  children  who  are  maintained  and  educated 
in  a  school  of  industry  ;  and  connected  with  the  build- 
ing is  a  free  school  for  230  children,  with  apartments 
for  a  master  and  mistress,  who  have  a  joint  salary  of 
£75  per  annum.  The  teacher  of  the  school  of  industry 
has   a   salary  of  £55,  with  lodging  and  maintenance. 


EL  G  I 


ELGI 


The  buildings  of  the  institution  occupy  a  spacious  qua- 
drangular area,  and  are  handsomely  erected  of  freestone  : 
the  central  range  has  a  Doric  portico  supporting  an 
entablature  and  pediment,  on  which  latter  are  three 
sculptured  figures  representing  the  founder  and  the 
objects  of  the  institution,  the  whole  surmounted  by  a 
circular  cupola  and  dome ;  and  the  wings  are  embel- 
lished with  porticos  of  the  same  order.  The  interior 
is  well  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  the  establishment, 
and  contains  a  neat  chapel,  schoolrooms,  with  refec- 
tories and  dormitories  for  the  children,  and  apartments 
for  the  aged  persons  ;  the  gardens  are  well  laid  out,  and 
the  whole  is  inclosed  with  a  stone  wall  and  iron  pali- 
sade. The  expense  of  the  buildings,  which  were  com- 
pleted in  1S33,  was  about  £12,000.  An  infant  school 
is  supported  by  subscription,  the  master  of  which  has 
a  salary  of  £25  per  annum,  with  a  house  and  the  school 
fees  ;  and  there  is  a  trades'  school,  with  an  endow- 
ment of  £5  per  annum  from  the  common  fund  of  the 
burgh. 

The  poor  have  the  interest  of  lands  and  monies  vested 
in  the  corporation,  amounting  to  £23.  7-  6.,  and  of  pro- 
perty in  the  hands  of  the  Kirk  Session,  amounting 
to  £54.  15.  per  annum.  James  VI.,  by  charter  in  1620, 
granted  to  the  provost,  bailies,  and  community  of  the 
burgh,  the  site  and  revenues  of  the  hospital  of  Maison 
Dieu,  under  which  grant  an  almshouse  has  been  erected 
for  four  bedesmen,  who  receive  annually  four  bolls,  of 
barley,  paid  out  of  the  rents  of  the  hospital  lands.  Four 
bedesmen  are  also  supported  by  the  proceeds  of  money 
and  land  bequeathed  by  William  Cumming,  of  Auchray, 
in  1693,  and  producing  annually  £71.  18.,  which  sum  is 
equally  divided  among  them.  Mr.  Duff,  in  1729,  left 
lands  for  the  support  of  a  decayed  burgess,  which  yield 
£23  per  annum,  paid  to  persons  nominated  by  the  Earl 
of  Fife.  A  bequest  by  Mr.  Petrie,  in  1777,  for  the  edu- 
cation of  six  poor  orphans  or  children  of  the  town  of 
Elgin,  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Kirk  Session  ;  and  from  the 
proceeds  each  of  the  children  receives  £4  per  annum 
for  three  years.  The  Guildry  charitable  fund  was  esta- 
blished in  1S14,  by  the  guild  brethren,  for  the  relief  of 
the  widows  and  children  of  decayed  members  ;  and  by 
good  management,  the  funds  have  accumulated  suffi- 
ciently to  enable  them  to  divide  £250  annually  among 
the  objects  of  the  institution.  Grey's  hospital  for  the 
sick  poor  of  the  town  and  county  was  founded  in  1819, 
by  Dr.  Alexander  Grey,  of  Calcutta,  who  endowed  it 
with  funds  for  its  maintenance ;  and  Dr.  Dougal  be- 
queathed £15  per  annum  for  the  purchase  of  medicines 
for  the  poor,  which  was  given  to  the  trustees  of  the 
hospital.  The  number  of  patients  admitted  annually 
is  about  250,  and  the  number  in  the  house  at  one  time 
about  twenty-five  ;  and  since  the  addition  of  Dr.  Dou- 
gal's  bequest,  medicines  and  advice  have  been  gratui- 
tously dispensed  to  300  out-patients  every  year.  The 
building  is  in  the  Grecian  style  of  architecture,  with  a 
handsome  portico  of  four  Doric  columns,  supporting  an 
entablature  and  cornice,  and  a  stately  dome  rises  from 
the  centre  of  the  edifice ;  the  interior  is  well  arranged. 
On  the  grounds  belonging  to  it,  and  nearly  adjoining, 
a  county  lunatic  asylum  for  paupers  has  been  built. 
Dr.  Grey  likewise  bequeathed  £2000,  which,  on  the 
decease  of  his  widow,  will  be  augmented  with  an  addi- 
tional £1000,  for  the  assistance  of  unmarried  daughters 
of  respectable  but  decayed  burgesses  :  the  interest  of 
399 


this  sum  is  divided  among  them  by  the  ministers  and 
physicians  of  the  parish,  who  are  permanent  trustees. 
A  portion  of  land,  also,  was  bequeathed  by  Mr.  Laing 
for  the  assistance  of  a  decayed  merchant  and  guild  bro- 
ther ;  it  produces  £5.  10.  per  annum,  which  are  paid  to 
the  nominee  of  the  nearest  surviving  relative  of  the 
testator.  The  six  incorporated  trades  distribute  con- 
siderable sums  among  their  poor  members  and  widows 
and  children  ;  and  a  savings'  bank  was  established  in 
1815,  in  which  the  amount  of  deposits  is  above 
£23,000. 

There  are  some  beautiful  remains  of  the  ancient 
cathedral,  founded  by  the  Bishop  of  Moray  in  1224,  and 
which  was  burnt  by  Alexander  Stewart,  generally  called 
the  Wolf  of  Badenoch,  whom  one  of  the  bishop's  succes- 
sors had  excommunicated  for  the  unjust  seizure  and 
detention  of  his  lands  ;  it  was,  however,  soon  afterwards 
restored,  and  continued  in  all  its  original  magnificence 
till  the  year  156S,  when  the  Regent  Morton  directed 
the  lead  to  be  stripped  off  its  roof,  in  order  to  pay  his 
troops.  From  its  exposure  to  the  weather,  it  now  began 
to  decay ;  the  wood-work  of  the  great  tower  in  time 
perished,  and  the  foundation  sinking,  it  fell  in  17 11. 
When  entire  the  cathedral  had  five  towers,  two  at  the 
west  end,  two  at  the  east,  and  one  stately  tower  rising 
from  the  centre  ;  it  was  a  splendid  cruciform  structure 
in  the  decorated  style  of  English  architecture,  264  feet 
in  length,  and  of  proportionate  breadth,  and  the  central 
tower  was  198  feet  high.  The  remains  consist  partly  of 
the  walls  and  turrets  of  the  choir ;  and  the  western 
towers,  with  the  grand  western  entrance,  are  yet  tole- 
rably entire ;  but  only  a  few  fragments  of  the  walls  of 
the  nave  and  transepts  are  standing.  The  chapter- 
house, an  octangular  building  nearly  forty  feet  in  dia- 
meter, with  a  richly- groined  roof,  supported  on  one 
central  column,  is  still  in  good  preservation.  Of  the 
college,  which  was  an  appendage  of  the  cathedral,  only 
the  eastern  gateway,  with  part  of  the  wall  by  which  it 
was  inclosed,  is  now  remaining ;  the  episcopal  palace 
and  conventual  buildings  have  all  disappeared,  and 
though  enough  is  left  to  afford  an  idea  of  the  style  of 
this  once  stately  structure,  the  ruins  convey  but  a  very 
imperfect  memorial  of  its  ancient  grandeur  and  mag- 
nificence. By  the  laudable  exertions  of  the  barons  of 
the  exchequer  of  Scotland,  and  the  commissioners  of 
woods  and  forests  of  England,  much  of  the  accumu- 
lated rubbish  has  been  removed,  and  man)'  interesting 
details  which  had  been  long  concealed  have  been 
brought  to  light.  There  are  still  some  ruins  of  the 
church  of  a  convent  of  Grey  Friars,  founded  here  by 
Alexander  II. ;  and  the  site  of  the  hospital  of  Maison 
Dieu  may  be  traced  in  a  field  near  the  town.  About  six 
miles  to  the  west  of  Elgin  are  the  ruins  of  the  abbey  of 
Pluscardine,  situated  in  the  valley  of  that  name  ;  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  the  stone  wall  that  inclosed  it  is  yet 
remaining,  and  the  dormitory,  which  has  been  roofed 
and  restored  in  the  original  style,  is  fitted  up  as  a  place 
of  worship  for  the  inhabitants  of  the  district.  The 
remains  are  carefully  preserved  from  further  decay  by 
the  proprietor,  the  Earl  of  Fife ;  and  the  plantations 
which  his  lordship  has  formed  in  the  immediate  vici- 
nity add  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  their  appearance. 
On  Lady  hill  is  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  George, 
last  duke  of  Gordon,  who  died  in  1S36.  Elgin  gives 
the  title  of  Earl  to  the  family  of  Bruce. 


E  L  G  I 


E  LI  E 


ELGINSHIRE,  a  county  in  the  north-east  of  Scot- 
land, bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Moray  Frith,  on  the 
east  and  south-east  by  Banffshire,  on  the  south  by  a 
detached  portion  of  the  county  of  Inverness,  and  on 
the  west  by  Nairnshire.  It  lies  between  57°  1 1'  and 
57°  43'  (N.  Lat.)  and  3°  2'  and  3°  5S'  (W.  Long.),  and 
is  about  40  miles  in  length,  and  23  miles  in  extreme 
breadth ;  comprising  an  area  of  S40  square  miles,  or 
537,600  acres;  8526  houses,  of  which  8154  are  in- 
habited; and  containing  a  population  of  35,012,  of 
whom  16,090  are  males,  and  IS, 922  females.  This 
county  formerly  constituted  a  portion  of  the  ancient 
province  of  Moray,  which  contained  the  shires  of  Nairn 
and  Elgin,  and  a  large  part  of  the  county  of  Banff,  and 
which  was  for  many  ages  distinguished  as  the  "  granary 
of  Scotland."  At  a  very  early  period  Moray  had  an 
establishment  of  Culdees,  and  it  subsequently  became 
the  seat  of  various  religious  societies,  that  emigrated 
from  Italy,  and  settled  here  about  the  commencement 
of  the  10th  century.  In  the  year  1100  it  was  made  a 
diocese  ;  and  in  1150,  an  abbey  for  Cistercian  monks 
was  founded  at  Kinloss  by  David  I.  The  priories  of 
Urquhart,  Pluscardine,  and  Kingussie  were  soon  after- 
wards established;  and  in  1224,  Andrew,  Bishop  of 
Moray,  erected  a  cathedral  for  his  diocese  at  Elgin,  of 
which  the  remains  form  one  of  the  most  interesting 
ecclesiastical  relics  in  the  country.  Since  the  Reforma- 
tion the  county  has  been  included  in  the  synod  of 
Moray ;  it  comprises  parts  of  several  presbyteries,  and 
consists  of  about  twenty  parishes.  For  civil  purposes 
it  is  joined  with  the  shire  of  Nairn,  under  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  one  sheriff,  who  appoints  a  sheriff-substitute  for 
each  ;  and  it  contains  the  royal  burghs  of  Elgin  and 
Forres,  of  which  the  former  is  the  county  town,  the 
towns  of  Garmouth  and  Lossiemouth,  and  a  few 
villages.  Under  the  act  of  the  2nd  of  William  IV.,  the 
two  counties  return  one  member  to  the  imperial 
parliament. 

The  surface,  which  rises  gradually  from  the  shores 
of  the  Frith  towards  the  Grampian  range,  is  beautifully 
diversified  with  parallel  ranges  of  hills  of  moderate 
elevation,  intersecting  the  county  from  cast  to  west,  and 
between  which  are  fertile  valleys  of  pleasing  appearance. 
The  chief  rivers  are,  the  Spey,  the  Lossie,  and  the 
Findhorn,  of  which  the  first  enters  the  county  from 
Inverness,  at  Aviemore,  and,  pursuing  a  north-easterly 
course,  and  receiving  the  Dulnan  and  Avon,  falls  into  the 
Moray  Frith  at  Garmouth ;  it  is  scarcely  navigable, 
from  the  extreme  rapidity  of  its  current,  except  for  the 
floating  of  timber  from  the  forests  of  Strathspey,  but 
abounds  with  salmon,  the  fisheries  of  which  produce  a 
rental  of  £7000  per  annum.  The  Lossie  has  its  source 
in  a  loch  of  that  name,  within  the  county,  and,  taking 
a  direction  nearly  parallel  with  the  Spey,  flows  through 
the  town  of  Elgin  into  the  Frith  at  Lossiemouth.  The 
river  Findhorn  rises  in  the  county  of  Inverness,  and 
soon  after  entering  the  county  receives  the  streams  of 
the  Dorbac  and  the  Divie,  and  runs  northward  into 
Findhorn  bay,  in  the  Moray  Frith.  The  chief  lakes 
are,  Lochnaboe,  covering  about  sixty  acres,  and  sur- 
rounded with  a  forest  of  ancient  firs  ;  Inchstellie,  of  very 
small  dimensions  ;  Loch  Spynie,  which  has  been  almost 
wholly  drained ;  and  Lochandorb,  on  the  boundary 
between  Elgin  and  the  detached  portion  of  the  county 
of  Inverness.  The  last  is  four  miles  in  length,  and 
400 


about  one  mile  broad  ;  on  the  border  are  some  remains 
of  a  castle,  which  was  besieged  by  Edward  II.  of  Eng- 
land in  his  wars  with  Bruce. 

About  one-fifth  of  the  land  is  arable  and  in  cultiva- 
tion, and  of  the  remainder  less  than  one-half  is  in 
pasture,  woodlands,  and  plantations.  The  soil  in  the 
lower  districts  is  sand,  alternated  with  clay  and  loam, 
which  last  is  the  most  predominant ;  the  system  of 
agriculture,  though  inferior  to  that  of  some  other  coun- 
ties, is  still  greatly  improved,  and  the  farm-buildings 
and  offices  are  generally  substantial  and  commodious. 
Considerable  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  live 
stock  ;  the  cattle  are  mostly  a  mixture  of  the  Shetland 
and  Lancashire  breeds,  and  the  sheep  of  the  black-faced 
breed ;  the  horses  are  the  Clydesdale  and  the  Lanark, 
with  a  few  of  the  Suffolk  and  Yorkshire.  The  natural 
wood  with  which  the  county  formerly  abounded  has 
been  greatly  diminished,  and  only  some  remains  are 
found  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers.  The  minerals  are  not 
very  important :  iron-ore  has  been  wrought,  though 
the  works  have  long  been  discontinued  ;  and  there  are 
indications  of  lead-ore  and  coal.  Limestone  is  found 
in  several  parts  near  the  coast,  and  there  are  quarries 
of  excellent  freestone  ;  slate  is  also  wrought  in  some 
places.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  county  is 
£99,299.  The  principal  seats  are,  Innes  House,  Duffus 
House,  Damaway  Castle,  Brodie  House,  the  Grange, 
Burgie  Castle,  Ortown  House,  and  Elchies  House. 
The  chief  manufactures  are  the  woollen  and  cotton,  of 
which  the  former  has  been  long  established  ;  there  are 
likewise  some  bleaching-grounds,  and  the  spinning  of 
flax  affords  employment  to  a  considerable  number  of 
persons.  There  are  some  tanneries,  and  also  distilleries 
on  an  extensive  scale,  the  latter  paying  collectively  duties 
to  government  amounting  to  £50,000  annually.  The 
county  contains  numerous  remains  of  antiquity,  of 
which  the  chief  are  the  ruins  of  Elgin  cathedral,  the 
episcopal  palace  at  Spynie,  the  priory  of  Pluscardine, 
and  the  castles  of  Lochandorb,  Dunphail,  and  Relugas  : 
there  are  also  many  memorials  of  the  frequent  battles 
which  occurred  between  the  inhabitants  and  the  Danes, 
by  whose  incursions  this  part  of  the  country  was  much 
infested. 

ELIE,  a  parish,  and  burgh  of  barony,  in  the  district 
of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of  Fife,  3  miles  (S.  S.  E.) 
from  Colinsburgh  ;  containing  907  inhabitants,  of  whom 
S29  are  in  the  village.  This  place  is  supposed  to  have 
derived  its  name  from  the  marshy  nature  of  the  soil 
previously  to  the  modern  improvements  in  agriculture, 
and  a  portion  of  land  bordering  on  the  loch  of  Kilcon- 
quhar  still  retains  that  character.  The  manor  has  been 
for  many  generations  in  the  family  of  Anstruther,  of 
whom  the  first  baronet,  Sir  William  Anstruther,  repre- 
sented the  county  of  Fife  from  the  year  16S1  to  1709, 
and  was  made  a  lord  of  session  in  the  reign  of  Queen 
Anne,  strenuously  exerting  himself  for  the  establish- 
ment and  maintenance  of  the  Protestant  religion.  A 
small  harbour  on  the  coast  here  seems  to  have  been 
formerly  very  much  resorted  to  as  a  place  of  safety,  in 
stress  of  weather,  by  ships  navigating  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  as,  if  they  missed  this  haven,  there  was  no  other 
till  they  were  driven  on  the  coast  of  Norway.  It  was 
easy  of  access,  and  perfectly  secure  ;  and  in  a  petition 
presented  to  the  privy  council  for  its  repair,  it  is  stated 
that  it  had  afforded  protection  to  more  than  300  troops 


E  L  I  E 


E  L  L  O 


that  must  otherwise  have  perished  in  a  storm.  It  is 
now  in  a  very  ruinous  and  dilapidated  condition,  but, 
from  a  survey  recently  made,  it  appears  that  it  might 
be  completely  repaired,  and  rendered  one  of  the  best 
harbours  on  the  coast  of  Fife.  The  parish,  separated 
from  that  of  Kilconquhar  about  the  year  1639,  is  two 
miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  and  one  mile  in 
breadth,  and  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  sea ;  it 
comprises  15/0  acres,  of  which  1464  are  arable,  50 
woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  pasture 
and  waste.  The  surface  is  generally  flat,  and  the  sands 
along  the  shore  are  peculiarly  commodious  for  bathing  : 
a  small  rivulet,  issuing  from  the  loch  of  Kilconquhar, 
traverses  the  parish,  and  falls  into  the  harbour  •  but 
there  is  no  river. 

The  soil  is  mostly  dry  and  sandy,  and  the  crops  are, 
wheat,  barley,  oats,  and  beans,  with  potatoes  and  tur- 
nips ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  highly  improved 
state  ;  the  farm-buildings  are  substantial  and  commo- 
dious, and  the  lands  are  chiefly  inclosed  with  fences  of 
thorn,  to  which  considerable  attention  is  paid.  The 
plantations  consist  of  beech  and  Scotch  fir.  The  sub- 
stratum is  principally  whinstone,  limestone,  sandstone, 
shale,  and  clay,  interspersed  with  ironstone;  the  limestone 
is  of  inferior  quality,  and  not  quarried  to  any  extent. 
Coal  is  thought  to  abound  in  this  parish,  which  forms 
a  section  of  the  great  independent  coal  formation  ;  but 
it  is  not  worked  at  present,  though  formerly  several  pits 
were  open.  The  strata  of  coal  are  traversed  by  several 
dykes  of  trapstone,  one  of  which,  consisting  of  basalt, 
projects  into  the  sea,  and  is  very  compact;  the  shale  in 
many  places  has  impressions  of  various  plants,  and 
stems  and  branches  of  trees  are  found  imbedded  in  the 
sandstone.  Sauchur  Point,  a  bold  headland,  consists 
of  basalt,  greenstone,  clinkstone,  and  trap  tuffa,  and 
abounds  with  a  beautiful  red  gem  called  the  Elie  ruby, 
which  is  of  a  brilliant  colour,  varying  in  size  from  a 
garden-pea  downwards,  and  is  found  only  on  this  part  of 
the  coast.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£3661.  Elie  House,  the  property  of  Sir  W.  C.  Anstru- 
ther,  is  a  noble  ancient  mansion,  situated  in  grounds 
which  have  been  tastefully  disposed  and  richly  orna- 
mented ;  but,  as  the  proprietor  is  not  resident,  it  is  not 
kept  up,  and  is  rapidly  falling  into  dilapidation.  The 
village,  which  is  much  resorted  to  during  the  summer 
months  for  sea-bathing,  is  well  built,  and  has  a  remark- 
ably neat  and  cheerful  aspect :  a  subscription  library 
has  been  established,  which  contains  a  tolerably  exten- 
sive collection  of  interesting  volumes.  The  post  is 
daily,  and  is  a  branch  from  the  office  at  Colinsburgh. 
A  small  fishery  is  carried  on  by  a  few  of  the  inhabit- 
ants, for  the  supply  of  the  village ;  a  packet  sails 
weekly  to  Leith,  and  the  Aberdeen  and  other  steam- 
vessels  touch  at  this  port  twice  or  three  times  in  the 
day,  both  going  and  returning.  The  parish  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  St.  Andrew's  and  synod  of  Fife,  and 
patronage  of  Sir  W.  C.  Anstruther  ;  the  minister's  sti- 
pend is  £150,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
about  £50  per  annum.  The  church,  which  was  sub- 
stantially repaired  in  1S31,  is  a  neat  and  well-arranged 
edifice,  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  600  persons,  and 
is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  village.  The  parochial 
school  affords  a  good  education;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £40,  with  £60  fees,  &c,  a  house,  and  a  small  garden, 
for  the  deficiency  of  which  he  has  an  allowance  of 
Vol.  I. — 401 


£2  per  annum.  There  are  revenues  vested  in  the 
minister  and  elders  for  the  use  of  the  poor,  amounting 
to  £73  per  annum.  A  friendly  society  called  the  Sea 
Box,  consisting  of  masters  of  vessels  and  seamen,  asso- 
ciated for  their  mutal  benefit,  obtained  from  George  III. 
a  charter  of  incorporation  ;  the  .funds,  which  are  ample, 
are  derived  from  land,  houses,  and  other  property,  and 
as  the  demands  are  comparatively  small,  the  society  is 
rapidly  increasing  its  capital. 

ELLENABAICH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kil- 
brandon  and  Kilchattan,  district  of  Lorn,  county  of 
Argyll;  containing  311  inhabitants.  This  is  a  small 
place,  situated  in  the  Kilbrandon  portion  of  the  parish. 

ELLENERTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kirrie- 
muir, county  of  Forfar  ;  containing  10S  inhabitants. 
It  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  persons  employed  in  agricul- 
ture and  in  the  manufactures  connected  with  the  trade 
of  the  town  of  Forfar. 

ELLIM,  county  of  Berwick. — See  Longformacus. 

ELLON,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Ellon,  county 
of  Aberdeen,  16  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Aberdeen;  con- 
taining 2941  inhabitants.  The  name  of  this  place  is 
supposed  to  be  derived  from  the  Gaelic  term  Aibeaim, 
signifying  an  island,  and  to  have  been  applied  on  ac- 
count of  the  situation  of  a  small  island  in  the  river 
Ythan,  near  the  village,  and  contiguous  to  the  ferry 
formerly  used  on  the  principal  line  of  road  leading  from 
Aberdeen  to  the  north-eastern  district  of  the  county. 
The  probability  of  this  derivation  is  increased  by  the 
circumstance  of  the  word  Elleann  being  inscribed  on 
some  old  communion  cups  presented  to  the  Kirk  Session 
by  the  family  of  Forbes,  of  Watertown.  Ellon  was 
from  a  very  remote  period  the  seat  of  the  jurisdiction  of 
the  earldom  of  Buchan,  and  the  court  was  held  in  the 
open  air,  on  an  eminence  rising  from  the  bank  of  the 
Ythan,  and  called  originally  the  "  Moot  hill  of  Ellon," 
but  in  later  times  the  "Earl's  hill."  The  lands  formerly 
belonged  to  the  Cistercian  abbey  of  Kinloss,  in  Moray, 
and  in  the  thirteenth  century  Robert  I.  confirmed  to 
the  abbot  the  possession  of  the  church  of  Ellon  :  at  one 
period,  also,  this  was  a  prebendal  church  of  Aberdeen, 
and  the  bishop  of  that  see  had  considerable  lands  here. 
The  parish  is  mostly  situated  on  the  northern  bank  of 
the  river  Ythan  ;  it  measures  between  eight  and  nine 
miles  in  average  length,  and  five  in  average  breadth, 
and  comprises  nearly  20,000  acres,  of  which  about 
15,000  or  16,000  are  arable,  and  the  remainder  moor, 
with  the  exception  of  200  acres  of  plantations.  Though 
there  are  no  remarkable  eminences,  the  surface  is  agree- 
ably diversified  with  rising  grounds  commanding,  in  a 
clear  day,  extensive  prospects,  which  comprehend  the 
north-eastern  range  of  the  Grampians,  Benochie,  the 
Foudland  hills,  the  summits  of  some  of  the  Spey-side 
mountains,  and  a  long  stretch  of  the  German  Ocean 
reaching  from  the  Girdleness  lighthouse  on  the  south, 
nearly  to  Rattray  point  on  the  north.  The  valley  of  the 
Ythan,  bisecting  the  parish  from  east  to  west,  is  joined 
on  the  north  by  the  small  valley  of  Ebrie,  extending  in 
that  direction  for  several  miles,  and  on  the  south  by 
that  of  Brony,  which  reaches  about  the  same  distance 
towards  the  south-west.  The  river,  rising  in  the  parish 
of  Forgue,  falls  into  the  German  Ocean  at  the  sands  of 
Forvie  ;  it  expands,  just  before  it  joins  the  sea,  into  a 
broad  shallow  basin,  and  is  navigable  for  lighters  to  the 
meadow  of  Watertown,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below 

3F 


EL  L  O 


EN  HA 


the  village,  where  there  is  a  landing-place.  The  salmon- 
fishing  on  the  river  was  formerly  worth  several  hun- 
dreds of  pounds  per  annum  ;  hut,  since  the  increase  of 
stake-nets  along  the  coast,  it  has  been  almost  annihi- 
lated. The  burns  of  Ebrie  and  Brony,  however,  falling 
into  the  Ythan,  are  well  stocked  with  salmon-trout, 
common  burn-trout,  and  finnock,  affording  excellent 
sport  to  the  angler ;  and  parties  from  Aberdeen  fre- 
quently visit  the  district  in  the  summer  months  to  en- 
joy this  recreation. 

The  soil  is  in  part  dry,  resting  on  a  gravelly  bed  ; 
clay  is  found  in  some  places,  and  there  is  a  very  con- 
siderable extent  of  fertile  diluvial  earth.  In  the  northern 
portion,  where  the  higher  grounds  are,  the  soil  is  mossy, 
and  exceedingly  poor,  much  mixed  with  white  sand,  en- 
cumbered with  loose  stones  above,  and  worthless  diluvial 
deposits  below,  and  totally  incapable  of  profitable  culti- 
vation. The  grain  chiefly  depended  on  is  oats ;  hut 
bear,  as  well  as  turnips,  forms  a  considerable  portion  of 
the  produce,  especially  the  latter.  The  crops  are  raised 
under  the  rotation  system  of  husbandry  ;  and  most  of 
the  modern  improvements  being  understood,  agriculture 
is  on  a  respectable  footing,  the  chief  impediment  to 
more  extensive  advances  being  the  want  of  encourage- 
ment for  the  outlay  of  capital.  Threshing-mills  are 
numerous,  and  the  farm-houses  and  offices  in  general 
convenient  and  well  built.  Sheep-farming  is  unknown  : 
the  cattle,  formerly  the  Aberdeenshire  horned  and  Angus 
polled  breeds,  have  been  latterly  much  mixed  with  the 
Teeswater,  which  prevails  to  a  considerable  extent.  Great 
encouragement  has  been  afforded  in  the  improvement 
of  stock  by  the  Formartine  Agricultural  Association,  of 
which  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen  is  patron,  and  most  of  the 
farmers  here  members.  The  rocks  are  all  of  the  primi- 
tive formation,  and  comprise  granite,  gneiss,  quartz,  &c. 
The  impervious  nature  of  the  subsoil,  and  the  proximity 
of  a  stormy  sea-coast,  render  the  parish  unfavourable 
to  the  growth  of  wood ;  and  the  trees,  consisting  chiefly 
of  Scotch  fir  and  larch,  are  all  of  inferior  size,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  scattered  specimens  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  village.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £9678. 

The  mansion-house  of  Arnage,  seated  in  the  valley  of 
the  Ebrie,  and  on  the  bank  of  the  stream,  is  an  ancient 
structure  commanding  a  pleasing  view  of  the  scenery 
in  the  immediate  locality.  Turner  Hall,  situated  on 
the  estate  so  called,  about  two  miles  north  of  the  vil- 
lage, embraces  extensive  prospects  of  the  German  Ocean, 
the  high  grounds  of  Aberdeen,  and  several  of  the  moun- 
tains in  the  districts  of  the  Don,  the  Dee,  and  the  Spey. 
There  is  also  a  mansion-house  on  the  estate  of  Esle- 
mont,  surrounded  by  fifty  or  sixty  acres  of  plantation, 
ornamentally  disposed  ;  and  a  fourth,  named  Dudwick, 
a  plain  old  house,  occupies  a  cold  marshy  situation  in 
the  upland  district.  Ellon  Castle,  now  deserted,  and 
almost  ruinous,  was  erected  principally  about  the  year 
17S0,  by  the  late  Earl  of  Aberdeen,  who  made  it  his 
residence,  and  enriched  the  surrounding  grounds  with  a 
variety  of  plantations,  which  have  since  been  to  a  great 
extent  cut  down.  The  village  contains  nearly  400  per- 
sons, and,  being  the  principal  market  for  a  large  district, 
and  the  residence  of  several  thriving  traders,  is  the 
scene  of  considerable  traffic.  There  is  a  general  post- 
office,  and  the  high  road  from  Aberdeen  to  Peterhead 
and  Fraserburgh  passes  through  :  a  turnpike-road  leads 
402 


to  the  port  of  Newburgh,  about  five  miles  and  a  half 
distant,  and  there  are  also  good  commutation  roads.  A 
market  is  regularly  held  once  in  every  fortnight,  for 
grain  and  black-cattle,  and  is  well  attended,  especially 
by  the  Aberdeen  butchers,  and  dealers  in  grain,  whose 
purchases  are  chiefly  for  exportation  at  Newburgh  :  two 
annual  fairs  take  place  in  the  village,  and  four  in  its 
immediate  vicinity.  The  parish  is  the  seat  of  the  pres- 
bytery of  Ellon,  in  the  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  is  in  the 
patronage  of  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  minister's  sti- 
pend is  £219,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £18 
per  annum.  The  church,  erected  in  1777,  is  a  plain 
commodious  building,  accommodating  1200  persons, 
and  is  lighted  at  the  evening  service  with  gas.  There 
is  an  episcopal  chapel  near  the  village,  containing  be- 
tween 300  and  400  sittings ;  also  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church,  Independents,  and  the 
United  Secession.  The  parochial  school,  situated  in  the 
village,  affords  instruction  in  Latin,  Greek,  French,  and 
mathematics,  in  addition  to  the  usual  branches ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £2S,  with  a  house,  and  £25  fees. 
There  is  also  a  school  in  the  northern  district,  where 
instruction  is  given  in  the  ordinary  branches,  and  the 
master  of  which,  besides  his  salary  and  fees,  has,  as 
well  as  the  master  of  the  other  school,  a  portion  of  the 
Dick  bequest.  The  parish  has  a  savings'  bank  and 
three  friendly  societies. 

ELLSRICKLE,  or  Elsridgehill,  a  village,  in  the 
parish  of  Walston,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of 
Lanark,  ljp  mile  (S.)  from  Walston ;  containing  211 
inhabitants.  It  lies  in  the  southern  part  of  the  parish, 
on  the  road  from  Peebles  to  Lanark,  and  is  a  pleasantly 
situated  and  picturesque  village,  of  which  the  scattered 
cottages  are  sheltered  by  plantations,  and  trees  of  larger 
growth  ;  and  from  the  advantages  it  possesses,  and  the 
liberality  of  the  proprietor  of  the  soil  around  it,  it  is 
likely  to  increase  in  its  extent  and  attractions.  A  burn 
proceeding  directly  hence  unites  with  several  others  in 
the  vale  of  Ellsrickle.  Some  of  the  inhabitants  are 
employed  in  hand-loom  weaving  for  the  Glasgow  manu- 
facturers. There  is  a  school,  supported  partly  by  con- 
tributions from  the  heritors  and  partly  by  the  school 
fees. 

ELPHINSTONE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Tra- 
nent, county  of  Haddington,  2  miles  (S.  by  W.)  from 
Tranent ;  containing  236  inhabitants.  This  village  lies 
in  the  southern  extremity  of  the  parish,  on  the  road 
from  Dalkeith,  by  Penston,  to  Haddington  ;  it  is  chiefly 
inhabited  by  colliers.  The  lands  adjacent  were  formerly 
embellished  with  woods,  of  which  nearly  the  whole  have 
been  cut  down.  The  tower  of  Elphinstone  is  a  square 
massive  pile  of  building,  supposed  to  have  been  erected 
in  the  early  part  of  the  14th  century,  and  in  1600  a 
dwelling-house  was  attached  to  it,  which  is  still  in- 
habited ;  but  the  stately  trees  by  which  it  was  sur- 
rounded have  been  removed.  A  school  for  the  instruc- 
tion of  the  children  of  persons  employed  in  the  collieries 
is  supported  by  subscription. 

ENGINE,  NEW  and  OLD,  hamlets,  in  the  parish 
of  Newton,  county  of  Edinburgh  ;  containing  respec- 
tively 51  and  49  inhabitants. 

ENHALLOW,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Rousay 
and  Egilshay,  county  of  Orkney  ;  containing  26  in- 
habitants. It  is  a  low  and  very  small  islet,  somewhat 
in  the  form   of  a  heart,  lying  to  the  westward  of  the 


E  N  Z  I 


EURO 


island  of  Rousay,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  reef 
of  rocks.  The  Sound  of  Enhallow  is  on  the  south, 
between  this  and  the  island  of  Pomona,  and  is  narrow ; 
but  as  the  tide  is  rapid,  its  passage  can  only  be 
attempted  with  a  fair  wind  and  in  moderate  weather,  it 
being  otherwise  very  dangerous. 

ENSAY,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Harris,  island 
of  Lewis,  county  of  Inverness  ;  containing  16  inhabit- 
ants. It  lies  in  the  Sound  of  Harris,  and  is  about  two 
miles  in  length  and  a  mile  in  breadth ;  it  has  a  good 
verdant  soil,  and  is  well  cultivated. 

ENZIE,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  formed  of  part 
of  the  parishes  of  Bellie  and  Rathven,  in  the  county 
of  Banff,  4  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Fochabers  ;  containing 
2103  inhabitants.  The  district  is  about  six  miles  in 
length  and  from  three  to  four  in  breadth,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Moray  Frith,  and  on  the 
south  by  the  Aldmore  hills  and  Whiteash.  The  surface 
presents,  generally,  a  very  pleasing  aspect,  considerably 
heightened  by  the  interspersion  of  wood  ;  and  the  views 
embrace  a  large  extent  of  the  Frith  and  of  the  opposite 
coast  of  Ross-shire  and  Sutherland.  The  soil  is  various, 
in  some  places  rich  and  fertile,  and  in  others  hard  and 
thin ;  and  the  crops,  which  are  usually  early,  consist 
chiefly  of  wheat,  oats,  and  barley,  the  first  being  most 
cultivated.  The  Duke  of  Richmond  is  the  principal 
proprietor  of  the  land.  On  the  hill  of  Parrymont,  in 
the  Rathven  portion  of  the  district,  is  a  quarry,  whence 
an  abundance  of  blue  slate  and  stone  flags  is  obtained  ; 
and  at  Gollachie  are  a  woollen-cloth  factory  and  a 
car  ding-mill.  White-fishing  is  prosecuted  with  advan- 
tage ;  cod  and  haddock  are  caught  in  considerable 
quantity,  and  the  former,  and  ling,  are  cured  by  the 
inhabitants,  and  disposed  of  in  the  southern  markets. 
There  is  a  salmon-fishing  station  at  Port-Gordon,  the 
chief  village,  belonging  to  a  company  in  the  neighbour- 
hood ;  and  here,  also,  a  pretty  extensive  trade  is 
carried  on  in  the  exportation  of  grain,  and  the  importa- 
tion of  coal  and  salt.  Eight  or  ten  vessels  belong  to 
the  place,  by  which  the  commerce  in  these  articles  is 
for  the  most  part  conducted  ;  and  a  kind  of  temporary 
harbour  affords  them  a  safe  anchorage.  The  north 
coast-road  from  Banff  to  Fochabers,  and  the  road  from 
Keith  to  Port-Gordon,  intersect  the  district.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  controuled  by  the  presbytery  of 
Fordyce  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  the  patronage  is 
vested  in  the  Committee  for  managing  the  Royal 
Bounty  :  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £62,  and  there 
is  a  glebe  of  eight  acres,  valued  at  about  £1  per  acre, 
and  for  which  the  minister  pays  a  ground  rent  of  two 
bolls  of  barley.  The  church  is  a  small  structure,  built 
in  1785,  and  enlarged  by  a  gallery  at  the  end  in  1S15, 
and  by  a  side  gallery  in  1822,  and  now  contains  400 
sittings  ;  it  is  nearly  equidistant  from  Rathven  church 
and  the  church  of  Bellie,  about  four  miles  from  each. 
The  Roman  Catholics  have  a  place  of  worship  near 
Achinhalrig,  a  small  hamlet,  where,  and  at  Starryhaugh 
and  Curl'urrach,  are  schools  supported  by  the  Society  for 
Propagating  Christian  Knowledge  ;  and  at  Port-Gordon 
is  a  school  maintained  by  the  Duke  of  Richmond.  The 
late  celebrated  Dr.  Alexander  Geddes,  a  Roman  Catho- 
lic divine,  and  a  translator  of  Horace's  Satires,  and  of  a 
portion  of  the  Bible,  with  critical  notes,  was  a  native  of 
the  place.  Enzie  confers  the  title  of  Earl  on  the  Mar- 
quess of  Huntly. 
403 


ERISKAY,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  South  Uist, 
county  of  Inverness  ;  containing  80  inhabitants.  This 
is  a  small  isle  of  the  Hebrides,  on  the  south  side  of 
South  Uist,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  narrow  and 
rocky  sound.  It  is  noted  as  having  been  the  first  place 
upon  which  the  unfortunate  prince  Charles  Stuart 
landed,  in  his  wild  enterprise  to  regain  the  throne  of 
his  ancestors  in  1745.  The  island  affords  some  pas- 
turage, and  the  inhabitants  are  partly  employed  in 
fishing  and  in  the  manufacture  of  kelp.  On  a  detached 
and  high  rock,  at  its  southern  end,  are  the  ruins  of  an 
old  square  tower. 

ERROL,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth  ;  includ- 
ing the  villages  of  Drums,  Grange,  Leetown,  Mains  of 
Errol,  and  Westown  ;  and  containing  2832  inhabitants, 
of  whom  1147  are  in  the  village  of  Errol,  10  miles  (E.) 
from  Perth,  and  12  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from  Dundee.  This 
place,  of  which  the  name,  in  the  Gaelic  language,  is 
descriptive  of  its  situation  as  a  conspicuous  landmark 
in  the  Frith  of  Tay,  was,  by  charter  of  William  the 
Lion,  constituted  a  barony,  and  granted  to  the  family 
of  Hay,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  twelfth  century.  A 
descendant  from  the  elder  branch  of  that  family  was,  in 
the  time  of  James  II.,  created  Earl  of  Errol,  and  this 
title  is  still  possessed  by  the  Hays,  though  all  their 
estates  here  were  sold  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.  of  Eng- 
land, with  the  exception  of  the  property  of  Leys,  in  the 
eastern  portion  of  the  parish,  which,  having  been  con- 
veyed in  the  thirteenth  century  by  the  proprietor  to  a 
younger  brother,  is  yet  in  the  hands  of  his  descendants. 
The  parish  is  about  six  miles  in  length,  and  of  irregular 
form,  ranging  from  two  miles  and  a  half  to  three  and  a 
half  in  breadth  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the 
Frith,  and  comprises  S600  acres,  of  which  nearly  the 
whole  is  rich  arable  land  in  high  cultivation,  with  small 
portions  of  pasture  and  woodland,  chiefly  around  gen- 
tlemen's seats.  The  surface,  though  generally  level,  is 
broken  by  two  lofty  ridges  of  varying  breadth,  which 
traverse  the  western  portion  of  the  parish  in  directions 
nearly  parallel,  and  by  a  smaller  ridge  almost  in  a  simi- 
lar direction,  about  half  a  mile  distant  from  the  former. 
The  whole  of  the  coast,  which  extends  for  six  miles,  is 
flat,  and  its  elevation  not  more  than  twenty  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  river,  which  is  here  more  than  two  miles 
in  breadth.  From  the  higher  grounds  are  fine  views 
of  diversified  scenery,  embracing  the  Lomond  hills, 
in  the  county  of  Fife,  the  vale  of  Strathearn,  the  hill 
of  Moncrieff,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Earn  and  the 
Tay,  with  the  summits  of  the  western  Highlands  of  the 
county  of  Perth.  The  village  of  Errol,  from  the  beauty 
of  its  situation  on  the  slope  of  an  eminence  crowned 
with  the  rich  foliage  of  stately  oaks,  is  a  strikingly  pic- 
turesque feature  in  the  general  landscape  as  seen  from 
the  river  at  the  distance  of  less  than  half  a  mile  ;  and 
the  scenery  immediately  around  it  abounds  with  almost 
every  variety.  Beneath  the  village  is  one  of  the  largest 
plains  in  the  country,  bounded  on  one  side  by  the  braes 
of  the  Carse  of  Gowrie,  an  extended  range  of  hills  cul- 
tivated nearly  to  the  summit,  and  surmounted  by  the 
distant  hills  of  Dunsinnan ;  and  on  the  other  side  by 
the  Frith,  which,  from  the  majestic  breadth  of  its  waters, 
with  numerous  vessels  constantly  passing,  forms  a  fine 
contrast  to  the  rich  luxuriance  of  the  vale.  In  the  north 
and  north-west  parts  of  the  parish  are  several  pools, 
receiving  the  streams  which  descend  from  the  higher 

3  F2 


ERRO 


E  R  R  O 


grounds,  and  the  water  collected  by  the  different  drains 
that  have  been  formed  for  carrying  off  the  surface 
water  from  the  farms.  From  these  pools  issue  various 
streams,  that  find  their  way  into  the  Frith  ;  the)'  are  on 
an  average  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in  width,  and  from 
two  to  three  feet  deep,  except  after  heavy  and  continued 
rains,  when  they  acquire  a  considerable  additional 
depth.  The  only  springs  are  those  that  have  been  found 
by  sinking  wells. 

The  soil  in  the  higher  parts  of  the  parish  is  generalty 
a  black  loam  resting  upon  clay,  and  occasionally  on 
gravel ;  it  is  of  various  depths,  and  more  or  less  wet  in 
different,  places.  On  the  lower  lands  the  soil  is  mostly 
clay,  intermixed  with  sand,  and,  by  long  cultivation  and 
the  plentiful  use  of  manure,  has  been  rendered  extremely 
fertile.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  good,  and  the 
rotation  plan  of  husbandry  adopted ;  the  crops  are, 
wheat,  barley,  oats,  turnips,  and  peas,  all  of  which  are 
abundant.  The  farm-buildings  have  been  much  im- 
proved, and  draining  has  been  carried  to  a  considerable 
extent;  embankments  have  been  also  constructed  for 
protecting  the  low  lands  from  the  inundations  of  the 
Tay.  The  principal  of  these  was  completed  by  Mr.  Allen 
in  1S36,  when  about  100  acres  were  reclaimed  from  the 
river,  now  forming  some  of  the  richest  land  on  his  estate  ; 
the  embankment  is  forty  feet  wide  at  the  base,  and  two 
feet  on  the  summit,  and  is  eleven  feet  high  ;  the  lower 
portion  of  the  bank,  to  the  height  of  four  feet,  consists 
of  a  wall  of  dry  stones,  and  the  upper  of  earth  and  reeds 
intermixed  with  stones.  A  second  embankment  has  been 
more  recently  constructed  by  Captain  Allen,  R.N.,  on 
a  similar  plan,  to  the  east  of  Port-Allen,  and  of  greater 
extent  than  the  former  to  the  west  of  the  port ;  and  in 
process  of  time,  by  continuing  these  embankments,  a 
very  large  portion  of  most  valuable  land  will  be  added 
to  the  farms  contiguous  to  the  river.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £20,260.  There  are  some 
plantations  on  the  banks  of  the  Tay,  to  resist  the  incur- 
sion of  the  tide,  consisting  chiefly  of  hard- woods  :  in  the 
grounds  of  the  principal  proprietors  the  trees  are  chiefly 
larch ;  in  Errol  Park  is  oak  of  venerable  growth,  for 
which  the  soil  is  well  adapted,  and  in  some  of  the 
poorer  lands  that  are  uncultivated  Scotch  fir  is  predo- 
minant. The  substrata  are  chiefly  limestone  of  inferior 
quality,  which  is  used  for  building,  and  sandstone,  tole- 
rably fine  grained,  but  not  very  compact ;  and  the  mine- 
rals hitherto  found,  are  calcareous  spar,  quartz,  and 
chalcedony.  The  sandstone  is  wrought  at  Clashbennie, 
where  an  extensive  quarry  has  been  opened,  from  which 
between  4000  and  5000  tons  are  annually  raised.  In 
this  quarry  have  been  found  at  different  times  various 
fossils  and  organic  remains  ;  impressions  of  small  fish 
have  been  frequently  discovered,  and  in  1836  a  portion 
of  stratum  was  found,  in  which  was  an  entire  impres- 
sion of  a  fish  nearly  twenty-seven  inches  and  a  half  in 
length,  and  about  thirteen  inches  in  breadth,  in  form 
resembling  a  tortoise.  The  upper  portion  of  the  stra- 
tum, containing  the  entire  body  of  the  fish,  was  soon 
afterwards  found,  and  purchased  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Noble, 
of  St.  Madoes.  Errol  Park  is  an  ancient  mansion  finely 
situated ;  the  park  contains  some  fine  specimens  of 
stately  timber,  and  the  avenue  to  the  house  is  formed  of 
lofty  oaks  of  venerable  growth.  The  grounds  adjoining 
the  residences  of  the  other  proprietors  are  also  well 
planted. 

404 


The  village  is  irregularly  built ;  but  its  situation  on  an 
acclivity,  at  a  moderate  distance  from  the  river,  gives  it 
a  very  pleasing  aspect,  and  it  is  well  inhabited.  The 
weaving  of  linen-cloth  is  carried  on  for  the  manufac- 
turers of  the  town  of  Dundee,  and  affords  employment 
to  several  families ;  a  considerable  number  are  also 
engaged  in  spinning  and  winding  yarn.  A  kind  of  soft 
canvass,  made  from  an  inferior  sort  of  hemp,  is  likewise 
manufactured  here,  chiefly  for  bags  and  packages  for 
goods  ;  and  much  business  is  done  in  a  tile  and  brick 
work  recently  erected,  upon  a  very  extensive  scale,  by 
the  Messrs.  Adams,  of  Glasgow,  on  the  property  of 
Captain  Allen,  to  the  north  of  the  village,  with  a  view 
to  promote  the  draining  of  the  lands  in  the  district. 
The  salmon  and  sperling  fishery  is  pursued  to  a  moderate 
extent,  producing  to  the  proprietors  an  annual  rental  of 
£300.  The  navigation  of  the  Tay  is  confined  chiefly  to 
Port- Allen,  where  there  is  a  small,  but  commodious,  har- 
bour ;  and,  from  the  progress  which  is  still  being  made 
in  the  construction  of  embankments,  the  chanuel  will  be 
considerably  deepened,  and  greater  facilities  of  entrance, 
afforded  for  the  shipping.  The  exports  are,  grain,  pota- 
toes, and  other  agricultural  produce,  and  the  chief  imports 
are  lime  and  coal;  about  5000  bolls  of  lime,  and  1000 
tons  of  coal,  are  annually  landed.  A  passage-boat  plies 
daily  between  this  place  and  Newburgh,  and  on  its  re- 
turn brings  timber,  iron,  and  other  articles  of  commerce. 
The  harbour  dues  are  paid  to  the  proprietor ;  and  the 
ferry  is  also  in  his  possession,  and  produces  a  rent  of 
£200  per  annum.  About  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the 
village  of  Errol,  at  a  place  called  Flatfield,  is  a  post-office, 
which  has  a  branch  in  the  village.  Fairs  are  held  in 
July  and  October,  the  latter  having  beeu  recently  re- 
vived ;  the  July  fair  is  numerously  attended,  though 
little  business  is  done,  except  in  hiring  farm-servants. 
The  nearest  market-town  is  Perth,  with  which,  and 
with  other  places  in  the  neighbourhood,  a  facility  of 
communication  is  obtained  by  good  roads,  one  of  which, 
a  turnpike-road,  passes  through  the  parish  for  several 
miles. 

Errol  is  for  ecclesiastical  purposes  included  in  the 
presbytery  of  Perth  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stir- 
ling ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £26S,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £16  ;  patron,  Capt.  Allen.  The 
church,  pleasantly  situated  on  a  gentle  acclivity  at  the 
extremity  of  the  village,  is  a  handsome  cruciform  struc- 
ture in  the  later  English  style,  with  a  lofty  square  em- 
battled tower  crowned  by  pinnacles  ;  it  was  erected  in 
1832,  at  an  expense  of  £6000,  and  is  adapted  for  a  con- 
gregation of  1434  persons.  There  are  places  of  worship 
for  the  United  Secession,  members  of  the  Free  Church, 
and  the  Relief  Church.  The  parochial  school  affords  a 
useful  education  ;  the  salary  of  the  master  is  £34,  with 
£35  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  There  is,  in  addi- 
tion to  a  small  subscription  library  in  the  village,  an 
extensive  and  valuable  library  connected  with  the  Sim- 
day  schools,  containing  about  400  volumes  ;  a  friendly 
society  has  been  established,  and  a  savings'  bank  opened. 
At  Clashbennie,  and  also  at  Inchmartin,  is  a  solitary 
upright  stone,  of  large  dimensions  but  rude  form,  appa- 
rently raised  as  a  memorial  of  some  event  not  hitherto 
ascertained.  At  Westown,  rather  more  than  three  miles 
from  the  village  of  Errol,  are  the  ruins  of  a  small  ancient 
church,  which  in  old  documents  is  styled  "the  church 
of  the  Blessed  Virgin  of  Inchmartin,"  and  in  which,  till 


E  It  S  K 


ERSK 


within  the  last  half  century,  the  ministers  of  Errol  used 
to  preach  every  alternate  Sunday;  the  building  is  most 
romantically  situated,  and  interments  were  not  long 
since  made  in  the  cemetery  surrounding  it.  In  the 
grounds  of  Murie  is  a  circular  mound,  about  twenty 
feet  in  height,  called  the  Law  Knoll ;  the  diameter  at 
the  base  is  about  forty  yards,  and  at  the  summit  thirty 
feet.  The  acclivities  are  planted  with  trees,  and  around 
the  top  is  a  low  wall  of  turf,  on  the  outside  of  which  is 
a  broad  walk  ;  the  base  is  inclosed  in  a  triangular  area 
formed  by  three  walls  of  turf.  It  is  situated  at  one 
extremity  of  an  avenue  of  lofty  oaks  leaning  in  a  right 
line  to  a  spot  anciently  called  Gallow  Knoll,  but  now 
Gallow-flat ;  the  mound  is  supposed  to  be  the  spot 
where  the  law  was  once  administered,  and  Gallow-flat 
was  the  place  of  execution. 

ERSKINE,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper  ward  of  the 
county  of  Renfrew,  10  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Glasgow  ; 
containing,  with  the  village  of  Bishopton,  1407  inha- 
bitants. This  place,  of  which  the  name  is  of  uncertain 
origin,  is  of  considerable  antiquity  :  according  to  most 
historians,  the  lands  were  conferred  upon  the  founder 
of  the  Erskine  family  by  Malcolm  II.,  in  reward  of  his 
valour  at  the  battle  of  Murthill,  in  which  he  slew  with 
his  own  hand  Enrique,  one  of  the  Danish  generals, 
whose  head  he  presented  to  that  sovereign  after  the 
victory.  The  parish  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  river 
Clyde,  and  extends  along  its  south  bank  for  nearly 
eight  and  a  half  miles,  increasing  in  breadth  from  the 
western,  where  it  is  less  than  two  miles,  to  the  eastern, 
extremity,  where  it  is  more  than  three  miles  broad.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  parish  of  Inchinnan,  on 
the  south  by  that  of  Houston  and  Killallan,  and  on 
the  west  by  the  parish  of  Kilmalcolm.  The  surface, 
though  level  near  the  shore,  rises  rapidly  towards  the 
south  ;  and  the  higher  grounds  command  diversified 
prospects  over  the  Frith  of  Clyde  and  the  opposite 
coast  of  Dumbartonshire,  embracing  the  castle  of  Dum- 
barton ;  on  the  west  of  the  parish,  appear  Port-Glasgow 
and  Greenock,  and  on  the  east,  the  park  and  pleasure- 
grounds  of  Erskine  House,  the  splendid  seat  of  Lord 
Blantyre.  The  more  distant  view  of  Dumbartonshire 
abounds  with  objects  of  romantic  beauty  and  inter- 
esting character ;  the  vale  of  Leven  is  interspersed 
with  numerous  elegant  villas,  and  further  off  are 
seen,  in  clear  weather,  the  waters  of  Loch  Lomond, 
and  the  lofty  mountain  of  Ben-Lomond.  The  river 
Clyde,  near  Erskine  House,  retains  its  original  character, 
and  its  banks  are  conspicuous  for  picturesque  scenery ; 
it  is  crossed  by  two  ferries  within  the  limits  of  the 
parish.  Erskine  ferry,  which  communicates  with  the 
village  of  Old  Kilpatrick,  is  under  good  management, 
and  has  an  excellent  inn,  much  frequented  by  parties 
of  pleasure  from  Glasgow.  The  Western  ferry,  about 
six  miles  from  the  former,  connects  the  parish  with 
Dumbarton  :  it  was  lately  proposed  to  place  it  under  the 
direction  of  the  Glasgow  and  Greenock  Railway  Com- 
pany, and  to  erect  commodious  quays,  and  establish  a 
communication  by  means  of  a  steam-boat  with  the  oppo- 
site coast ;  but  these  measures  have  not  been  carried 
into  effect,  and  the  ferry  still  remains  in  the  hands  of 
Lord  Blantyre,  the  former  proprietor. 

The  whole   number  of  acres   is  7109,   of  which  5123 
are  arable,  554  woodland  and  plantations,  S00  meadow 
and  pasture,  and  the  remainder  moss  and  waste.     The 
405 


soil  is  various,  but  in  general  light ;  in  the  north- 
eastern portion,  a  dark  grey  mould  mixed  with  gravel ; 
and  in  other  places,  clay  alternated  with  sand.  The 
crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips, 
with  the  usual  grasses  ;  the  rotation  system  of  hus- 
bandry is  prevalent,  and  much  improvement  in  agri- 
culture has  been  effected  under  the  auspices  of  Lord 
Blantyre.  Tile-draining  has  been  extensively  introduced, 
and  works  for  the  making  of  tiles,  for  which  clay  of 
excellent  quality  is  found,  have  been  established  on 
their  respective  lands  by  Lord  Blantyre  and  Mr.  Rodger  ; 
the  farm-houses  are  generally  substantial  and  commo- 
dious, and  most  of  the  lands  are  inclosed  either  with 
fences  of  hawthorn,  or  with  walls  of  stone.  The  dairy- 
farms  are  well  managed  :  the  cows  are  principally  the 
Ayrshire,  with  some  few  of  a  mixed  breed  between  the 
Ayrshire  and  Guernsey ;  the  average  number  on  the 
several  farms  is  about  350,  and  450  young  cows  and 
black- cattle  are  pastured  on  the  hills.  Few  horses  are 
kept  except  for  agricultural  use,  and  these  are  usually 
of  the  Clydesdale  breed.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £S18'2.  The  plantations  are  larch,  and 
Scotch,  spruce,  and  silver  firs  ;  and  the  prevailing  woods, 
oak,  elm,  beech,  ash,  walnut,  sycamore,  and  horse-ches- 
nut,  of  which  there  are  some  fine  trees.  The  substratum 
is  partly  gravel,  mixed  with  clay,  and  interspersed  with 
large  boulders  of  greywacke  and  granite  ;  in  the  south- 
eastern part  of  the  parish,  carboniferous  rock ;  and 
towards  the  western  extremity,  the  hills  are  wholly  of 
trap  rock  of  porphyritic  quality,  containing  crystals  of 
felspar,  with  amygdaloids  of  calcareous  spar.  On  the 
West  ferry  hill,  while  cutting  through  it  for  the  forma- 
tion of  the  Glasgow  and  Greenock  railway,  the  workmen 
discovered  some  fine  basaltic  columns  ;  zeolites  have 
been  found  in  the  trap  rocks ;  and  in  the  Bishopton 
ridge  is  a  new  mineral,  called  "  Greenockite"  in  honour 
of  Lord  Greenock,  who  discovered  it,  and  which  has, 
on  analysis,  proved  to  be  a  protosuhhate  of  cadmium. 
There  are  two  quarries  of  freestone  on  the  lands  of 
Lord  Blantyre,  from  which  were  taken  materials  for  the 
erection  of  the  church,  the  mansion-house  of  Erskine, 
and  other  buildings ;  there  is  a  similar  quarry  on  the 
lands  of  Mr.  Rodger,  and  in  several  parts  of  the  parish 
whinstone  is  wrought  for  the  roads. 

Erskine  House,  beautifully  situated  on  a  terrace  over- 
looking the  Clyde,  was  erected  by  the  late  Lord  Blantyre 
from  a  design  by  Sir  Robert  Smirke,  of  London ;  it 
is  a  fine  structure  in  the  Elizabethan  style  of  archi- 
tecture, ornamented  with  richly- crocketed  pinnacles, 
and  forming  an  imposing  and  highly  interesting  feature 
in  the  scenery  of  the  coast.  The  principal  building 
is  1S5  feet  in  length,  comprising  a  splendid  suite  of 
state  apartments,  a  picture  gallery  US  feet  in  length, 
and  a  stately  vestibule  and  hall:  the  interior  is  adorned 
with  numerous  oriel  windows  of  elegant  design,  and 
the  internal  decorations  are  costly  and  magnificent. 
The  demesne  is  richly  wooded,  and  embellished  with 
flourishing  plantations  ;  the  pleasure-grounds  are  taste- 
fully laid  out,  and  contain  an  obelisk  erected  by  the 
gentry  of  Renfrewshire  as  a  tribute  of  respect  to  the 
memory  of  the  late  Lord  Blantyre,  lord  lieutenant  of 
the  county,  and  major-general  in  the  British  army,  who 
was  accidentally  shot  during  the  revolution  at  Brussels 
in  1830.  Drums  is  a  handsome  residence,  pleasantly 
situated.     Finlaystone   is  a  modern  mansion,  built  on 


E  S  K  D 


E  S  KD 


the  site  of  the  ancient  castle,  the  seat  of  the  earls  of 
Glencairn,  where,  for  the  first  time  after  the  Reforma- 
tion, the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was  adminis- 
tered by  the  celebrated  John  Knox.  The  vessels  used 
on  that  occasion  were  carefully  preserved  by  the  family, 
and  lent  to  the  parish  church  of  Kilmalcolm ;  they 
are  supposed  to  have  been  removed  from  Finlaystone  by 
the  last  Lady  Glencairn,  who  took  them  with  her  to 
England.  Dargavel  is  an  ancient  mansion  in  that  style 
of  French  architecture  introduced  into  Scotland  by 
Mary,  Queen  of  Scots ;  it  is  a  castellated  structure,  of 
which  the  lower  story  has  a  groined  roof,  and  it  is 
flanked  with  towers  in  which  are  loop-holes  for  the 
discharge  of  musketry. 

The  population  is  agricultural ;  but  some  of  the 
females  are  employed  in  the  spinning  of  fine  yarn 
for  the  manufacture  of  thread,  first  introduced  into 
Scotland  by  Miss  Shaw,  of  Bargarran,  who,  by  repeated 
efforts,  succeeded  in  producing  an  article  of  superior 
quality,  which,  being  carried  by  Lady  Blantyre  to  Bath, 
was  eagerly  purchased  by  the  lace  manufacturers  of 
that  neighbourhood,  and,  under  the  name  of  Bargarran 
thread,  obtained  a  high  price.  The  making  of  this 
thread  is  carried  on  extensively  in  Paisley,  and  affords 
employment  to  numbers  of  the  female  population  of  the 
district.  A  post-office  has  been  established  at  Bishop- 
ton,  and  facility  of  intercourse  with  the  neighbour- 
ing towns  is  afforded  by  the  road  and  railway  from 
Glasgow  to  Greenock,  which  pass  through  the  parish, 
and  by  good  roads  kept  in  repair  by  statute  labour  : 
boats,  also,  from  Glasgow  to  Greenock  touch  almost 
every  hour  at  Erskine  ferry.  There  are  some  fisheries 
on  the  Clyde,  but  they  are  quite  unimportant ;  the  few 
salmon  taken  here  are  generally  sent  to  Glasgow.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  presbytery  of  Greenock  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and 
Ayr  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £279,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £9.  12.  9-  per  annum  :  patron,  Lord 
Blantyre.  The  church,  having  become  ruinous,  was 
taken  down  in  IS  13,  and  a  new  church  erected  near  its 
site,  on  ground  given  by  Lord  Blantyre  ;  it  is  a  neat 
structure  in  the  Elizabethan  style  of  architecture,  con- 
taining 500  sittings.  There  is  likewise  a  place  of  wor- 
ship for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  A  parochial 
library,  containing  about  400  volumes,  is  supported 
by  subscription.  The  parochial  school,  for  which  a 
handsome  and  spacious  building  has  been  recently 
erected,  is  well  attended ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£30,  with  a  good  house,  and  the  fees  average  £30  per 
annum.  There  is  also  a  subscription  school,  lately  re- 
built. A  friendly  society  until  recently  contributed 
greatly  to  the  diminution  of  pauperism,  and  a  savings' 
bank  was  likewise  in  operation,  in  which  there  were  de- 
posits to  a  moderate  amount. 

ESKDALEMUIR,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dum- 
fries, 13  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Langholm  ;  containing 
646  inhabitants.  This  parish,  as  its  name  partly  im- 
ports, consists  of  the  lands  lying  at  the  head  of  Eskdale, 
which  were  originally  possessed  by  the  clan  of  Beat- 
tieson,  but  which  passed  into  other  hands  under  the 
following  circumstances.  Cardinal  Beaton  and  Robert 
Lord  Maxwell,  according  to  tradition,  were  sent  by 
James  V.  as  ambassadors  to  France,  in  the  year  1537, 
to  conclude  a  marriage  between  that  sovereign  and 
Mary  of  Guise,  when  Lord  Maxwell,  by  commission,  as 
406 


proxy  for  the  king,  married  the  princess,  and,  having, 
with  the  cardinal,  conducted  her  to  Scotland,  received 
as  a  reward  from  the  crown  the  lands  comprehended 
under  the  name  of  the  Five  Kirks  of  Eskdale.  Lord 
Maxwell  at  once  offered  the  occupiers  a  title  to  their 
several  possessions  on  certain  specified  conditions  ;  but, 
indignant  at  the  royal  grant,  they  objected,  and  matters 
ran  into  such  severe  altercation,  that  he  was  obliged 
to  flee  to  save  his  life,  and  shortly  afterwards  he  sold 
the  estate  to  Scott  of  Branxholm,  ancestor  of  the  ducal 
family  of  Buccleuch,  leaving  him  to  obtain  possession 
as  well  as  he  could.  Upon  this,  Scott,  who  was  warden 
of  the  middle  marches  between  Scotland  and  England, 
having  raised  numerous  friends,  proceeded  to  Eskdale- 
muir, and  expelled  all  the  clan  of  Beattieson,  except 
Roland  Beattie,  of  Watcarrick,  who  had  saved  Lord 
Maxwell's  life  by  lending  him  a  horse  on  which  to 
escape  from  the  malcontents,  and  to  whom  that  noble- 
man had  confirmed  a  tenant-right  in  his  property. 
Having  thus  cleared  the  domain,  Scott  g'ave  feu  rights 
of  the  greater  part  of  it  to  his  relations  and  depend- 
ents. 

Eskdalemuir  was  originally  a  part  of  the  parish  of 
Westerkirk,  but  was  erected  in  1/03  into  a  separate 
parish  ;  it  is  the  largest  in  the  county,  being  about 
twelve  miles  long,  from  north  to  south,  and  eight  miles 
broad,  and  contains  42,250  acres.  The  surface  is 
strongly  marked  in  the  northern  portion  by  part  of  a 
chain  of  mountains  extending  from  the  sources  of  the 
Clyde  and  Annan  on  the  west  to  the  source  of  the 
Tyne,  in  Northumberland,  in  the  east :  the  highest  hills 
are  Lochfell  and  Eskdale  pen.  The  White  and  Black  Esk, 
so  named  from  the  sandy  and  mossy  soils  over  which 
they  run,  take  their  rise  in  this  parish,  and,  uniting  at 
its  southern  extremity,  form  that  beautiful  river  which, 
after  receiving  many  tributary  streams,  loses  itself  in 
the  Solway  at  Longtown,  in  Cumberland.  There  are 
three  celebrated  cascades  called  Goat-linn,  Wellsburn 
Spout,  and  the  Garvald  Linns.  The  soil  is  deep  in 
many  parts,  but  is  not  fertile,  on  account  of  the  elevated 
site  of  the  district ;  the  hills  towards  the  south  are 
green,  but  the  more  retired  parts  are  moss,  covered 
with  coarse  grass  and  different  kinds  of  water-plants. 
The  number  of  acres  cultivated,  or  occasionally  in 
tillage,  is  482,  the  rest  remaining  constantly  in  pasture  : 
there  is  very  little  wood  to  be  seen  in  any  direction. 
This  is  chiefly  a  grazing  parish  :  the  sheep,  with  a  very 
few  exceptions,  are  all  Cheviots,  and  the  cattle  are  of 
the  Galloway  breed,  with  some  Ayrshire  and  Dutch ; 
both  are  usually  taken  to  the  Langholm  and  Lockerbie 
markets.  Many  improvements  have  been  effected  by 
the  embankment  of  the  rivers,  by  mole-catching  to  a 
surprising  extent,  and  by  surface-draining,  there  being 
now  nearly  400,000  roods  of  drains  in  the  parish.  The 
ring  fences  around  the  inclosed  lands  are  commonly  of 
stone,  the  subdivisions  of  thorn,  and  the  march  dykes 
between  farms  always  of  stone.  The  strata  consist  of 
greywacke  and  other  transition  rocks ;  the  common 
fuel  is  peat,  of  which  there  is  an  abundant  supply.  The 
parish  roads  extend  about  twenty  miles  in  length  ;  and 
there  are  several  bridges  over  the  rivers,  of  which 
one,  erected  across  the;  Black  Esk,  is  on  the  line  of 
road  to  Lockerbie,  Lochmaben,  Dumfries,  and  Moffat. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  Eskdalemuir  is  £6766. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  pres- 


ETTR 


ETTR 


bytery  of  Langholm  and  synod  of  Dumfries ;  patron, 
the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  and  Queensberry.  The  stipend 
is  £221,  with  a  good  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  considerable 
extent,  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The  church  stands 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  on  the  bank  of  the 
White  Esk;  it  was  built  in  1S26,  and  is  a  commodious 
and  elegant  structure,  containing  sittings  for  393 
persons.  The  Reformed  Presbyterians  have  a  place 
of  worship.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which 
Latin,  Greek,  and  French  are  taught,  with  the  usual 
branches  of  education  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  about  £10  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  A 
library  has  been  lately  instituted,  and  is  in  a  prosperous 
state.  The  chief  relic  of  antiquity  is  the  camp  desig- 
nated Castle-O'er,  or  Overbie,  which  is  situated  on  the 
farm  of  Yetbyre,  and  though  of  an  oval  form,  is  gene- 
rally considered  as  of  Roman  origin,  and  to  have  com- 
municated with  the  camps  of  Middlebie  and  Netherbie  : 
there  is  scarcely  a  hill  within  sight  of  it  on  which 
there  is  not 'some  vestige  of  an  outer  encampment. 
Another  camp,  however,  has  more  recently  been  dis- 
covered on  the  farm  of  Raeburnfoot,  and  has  led  to  the 
opinion  that  the  former  is  a  Saxon  work,  and  the  latter 
the  true  Roman  camp  of  Overbie ;  it  exhibits  all  the 
lineaments,  as  far  as  they  are  visible,  of  a  most  com- 
plete military  station,  with  the  prffitorium  and  every 
other  mark  of  a  Roman  work.  Were  the  lines  on  the 
west  side  of  the  entrances  extended  as  far  as  those  on 
the  eastern  side,  so  as  to  make  it  a  square,  it  would 
cover  seven  acres.  There  are  two  Druidical  circles  on 
the  farm  of  Coatt,  measuring  in  circumference  ninety 
feet  and  340  feet,  respectively.  The  parish  and  ad- 
joining district  confer  the  title  of  Baron  Scott  and 
Eskdale  on  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch. 

ESSIE,  county  of  Aberdeen. — See  Rhynie. 

ESSIE,  Forfarshire. — See  Eassie. 

ETTRICK,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Selkirk,  18§ 
miles  (S.  W.)  from  Selkirk;  containing  525  inhabitants. 
The  name,  of  uncertain  origin,  is  supposed  by  some  to 
be  in  the  Gaelic  language  descriptive  of  the  river  on 
which  Ettrick  is  situated.  The  parish  is  about  ten 
miles  in  length,  and  nearly  of  equal  breadth  in  the 
widest  part,  and  comprises  43,96*S  acres,  of  which  217 
are  arable,  120  meadow,  270  woods  and  plantations, 
150  water,  and  the  remainder  pasture.  The  surface  is 
broken  by  numerous  hills,  some  of  which  are  of  moun- 
tainous height,  and  all  covered  with  verdure  from  their 
base  to  their  summit,  with  the  exception  only  of  a  few 
whose  brows  and  summits  of  heath  add  to  the  variety 
and  beauty  of  the  landscape.  Ettrick  Pen,  the  highest 
of  these  mountains,  has  an  elevation  of  2200,  Wardlaw 
of  19S0,  and  Old  Ettrick  hill  of  1800  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The  chief  river  is  the  Ettrick,  which  rises 
on  the  south  side  of  a  mountainous  ridge,  between 
Loch-fell  and  Capel-fell,  and  in  its  progress  through  the 
parish  receives  numerous  streams  descending  from  the 
heights  ;  it  generally  flows  with  an  equable  and  tranquil 
current,  but,  when  swollen  by  continued  rains,  it  ac- 
quires the  impetuosity  of  a  torrent,  and,  frequently 
bursting  its  banks,  inundates  the  adjacent  lands.  After 
leaving  the  parish,  it  pursues  a  north-eastern  direction, 
and  falls  into  the  Tweed  near  Abbotsford.  The  Timah, 
a  small  rivulet,  has  its  source  in  the  hills  on  the  con- 
fines of  the  parish  of  Eskdalemuir,  and,  after  a  course 
of  about  six  miles  through  this  parish,  falls  into  the 
407 


Ettrick  near  the  church  :  the  Rankleburn,  also  a  small 
rivulet,  rises  near  the  source  of  the  Timah,  and  joins  the 
Ettrick  not  far  from  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Tushie- 
law.  These  streams  abound  with  trout ;  and  in  the 
Ettrick,  salmon  and  sea-trout  are  found  in  the  ordinary 
seasons. 

The  soil  is  very  various ;  on  the  summits  of  the 
hills,  a  deep  moss ;  on  the  slopes,  a  mossy  gravel ;  on 
the  low  lands,  a  rich  alluvial  deposit,  and  in  general 
fertile.  The  crops  are,  oats  and  barley,  with  potatoes 
and  turnips ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  improved ; 
the  lands  have  been  drained  and  partially  inclosed,  and 
the  farm-buildings  are  commodious  and  well  built.  The 
principal  attention,  however,  is  paid  to  the  rearing  and 
pasture  of  sheep  and  cattle  ;  the  Cheviot  breed  of  sheep 
has  altogether  superseded  the  old  black-faced  kind,  and 
the  average  number  annually  pastured  in  the  parish 
may  be  taken  as  about  26,000.  Recently,  Highland 
Kyloes  have  been  introduced  on  some  of  the  farms,  and 
eat  the  refuse  of  the  pastures,  and  render  them  more 
fertile.  The  milch-cows  are  all  of  the  short-horned  and 
Ayrshire  breeds,  and  about  400  head  of  black-cattle  are 
pastured  every  year.  A  due  degree  of  attention  to  the 
improvement  of  live  stock  has  been  excited  by  the 
Pastoral  Society,  instituted  in  ISIS,  under  the  patron- 
age of  the  late  Lord  Napier,  and  which  holds  one  of  its 
annual  meetings  here.  The  rateable  value  of  Ettrick  is 
£7S44.  Though  formerly  part  of  an  extensive  forest, 
there  is  very  little  old  timber  in  the  parish ;  the  chief 
trees  are,  the  mountain  and  common  ash,  birch,  alder, 
willow,  and  thorn.  The  plantations,  which  are  of  com- 
paratively recent  formation,  consist  of  Scotch  and  spruce 
firs  and  larch,  intermixed  with  the  various  kinds  of 
forest  trees  ;  they  are  well  managed,  and  in  a  flourish- 
ing condition.  The  principal  substrata  are  greywacke 
and  clay-slate,  of  which  the  rocks  are  formed.  A  small 
nodule  of  antimony  was  once  found  in  the  channel  of  a 
burn,  near  the  source  of  the  Ettrick,  but,  after  diligent 
search,  no  further  appearance  of  it  could  be  ascertained  ; 
pyrites  of  iron  have  been  also  discovered  occasionally, 
and  near  the  loch  of  the  Lowes,  which  borders  on  the 
parish,  is  a  black  rock  of  glossy  appearance,  supposed 
to  consist  of  aluminous  slate.  Thirlstane,  the  seat  of 
Lord  Napier,  is  a  handsome  mansion  of  modern  erection, 
situated  in  a  romantic  and  deeply-sequestered  spot. 
Facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  excellent  roads, 
which  traverse  the  parish  for  an  extent  of  thirty  miles, 
opening  an  easy  intercourse  between  its  most  distant 
parts  and  with  all  the  neighbouring  towns.  All  were 
constructed,  and  brought  to  their  present  state  of  perfec- 
tion, under  the  persevering  efforts  of  the  late  Lord  Napier, 
to  whom  the  parish  is  deeply  indebted  for  its  present 
improved  condition,  and  by  whose  liberality  numerous 
pleasing  and  comfortable  cottages  have  been  spread 
over  a  tract  of  land  previously  little  better  than  a  dreary 
desert.  Fairs  are  held  in  the  end  of  March,  for  the  sale 
of  ewes  and  the  hiring  of  farm-servants  and  shepherds  ; 
in  the  end  of  July,  for  lambs  and  wool,  and  the  transac- 
tion of  general  business  ;  at  the  end  of  September,  for 
draft  ewes,  young  Iambs,  and  fat  sheep  ;  and  in  Novem- 
ber, for  fat  sheep  for  the  markets.  The  September  fair 
is  the  most  numerously  attended,  and  generally  nearly 
1 0,000  head  of  stock  are  exposed  for  sale.  There  is  a 
small  prison  called  the  "  Round  House,"  near  the  ground 
where  the  fairs  are  held. 


EVAN 


E  V  I  E 


Ettrick  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Selkirk  and  synod  of 
Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and  patronage  of  Lord  Napier; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £229.  9.  7-,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £28  per  annum.  The  church,  situated 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  was  rebuilt  upon  a 
larger  scale  in  1S24  ;  it  is  a  neat  and  handsome  edifice, 
adapted  for  a  congregation  of  about  450  persons.  The 
parochial  school  affords  a  liberal  course  of  instruction  ; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34  per  annum,  with  £15 
fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  A  parochial  library, 
containing  more  than  800  volumes,  has  been  maintained 
by  subscription  and  donations,  to  which  Lord  Napier 
has  largely  contributed  ;  and  a  Bible  and  Missionary 
Society  is  also  supported  here,  under  the  patronage  of 
his  lordship.  In  the  retired  valley  of  the  Rankleburn, 
which  is  inclosed  with  lofty  and  precipitous  hills,  are 
two  farm-steads  called  the  Buccleuchs,  from  which  the 
family  of  Scott  take  their  ducal  title  ;  and  in  a  deep 
ravine  leading  from  them  to  the  Hawick  road,  is  the 
spot  where  the  buck  was  killed,  from  which  circum- 
stance the  name  of  these  lauds  is  said  to  have  been  de- 
rived. About  a  mile  from  the  farm,  and  on  the  bank  of 
the  burn,  may  still  be  traced  the  foundations  and  part 
of  the  walls  of  the  church  or  chapel  of  Buccleuch.  On 
the  road  on  the  banks  of  the  Ettrick  are  the  ruins  of 
the  ancient  castle  of  Tushielaw,  formerly  the  stronghold 
of  the  Scott  family,  noted  for  their  predatory  excursions 
in  the  neighbourhood,  and  of  whom  two  individuals 
were  convicted,  in  the  reign  of  James  V.,  of  exacting 
black  mail,  and  the  one  hanged  on  a  tree  near  the  gate 
of  his  castle,  and  the  other  beheaded  at  Edinburgh,  and 
his  head  fixed  on  the  Tolbooth.  About  two  miles  from 
this  spot  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  baronial  castle 
of  Thirlstane,  surrounded  by  some  ash-trees  of  very 
ancient  growth  ;  and  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Ettrick 
are  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Gamescleuch,  the  resi- 
dence of  a  branch  of  the  family  of  the  Scotts  of  Thirl- 
stane. On  the  lands  of  the  farm  of  Kirkhope  may  be 
traced  the  boundaries  of  a  cemetery  formerly  belonging 
to  some  church  or  chapel  of  which  there  are  no  vestiges 
remaining ;  and  near  the  farm  of  Chapelhope  are  the 
site  and  foundations  of  another  church  or  chapel,  with  a 
cemetery  attached.  An  ancient  tripod  and  two  stone 
hatchets  were  found  some  years  since,  and  are  now  in 
the  possession  of  Lord  Napier.  About  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  church  was  till  lately  a  house,  with  a  gable 
end,  fronting  the  road,  in  which  was  born  James  Hogg, 
the  Ettrick  shepherd.  Alexander  Cunningham,  minis- 
ter to  the  state  of  Venice  in  the  reign  of  George  I.,  and 
author  of  a  History  of  Great  Britain  from  the  Revolu- 
tion in  16SS  till  the  Accession  of  George  I.,  written  in 
Latin,  and  long  after  his  decease  translated  into  Eng- 
lish, and  published,  in  17S7,  by  Dr.  William  Thomson, 
was  born  here  during  the  incumbency  of  his  father. 
Boston,  author  of  the  Fourfold  State,  was  minister  of 
Ettrick  from  1707  to  1732. 

ETTRICK-BRIDGE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Yar- 
row, county  of  Selkirk,  7  miles  (\V.  S.  W.)  from  Sel- 
kirk, containing  108  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  the 
eastern  part  of  the  parish,  on  the  Ettrick  water,  and 
is  chiefly  inhabited  by  persons  engaged  in  handicraft 
trades.     There  are  a  church  and  school  in  the  village. 

EVANTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kiltearn, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty  ;   containing  462  inha- 
bitants.    This  village  had  no  existence  five- and- thirty 
40S 


years  ago  ;  it  is  built  upon  a  waste  piece  of  land,  con- 
sists of  about  a  hundred  houses,  and  is  of  very  regular 
and  neat  appearance.  Two  fairs,  neither  of  them  well 
attended,  owing  to  the  convenient  supply  of  necessaries 
from  the  shops  in  the  village,  are  held  on  the  first 
Tuesdays  in  June  and  December.  The  United  Seces- 
sion have  a  place  of  worship  here ;  and  there  is  a 
school. 

EVIE  and  RENDALL,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Orkney;  containing,  with  the  island  of  Gairsay,  151S 
inhabitants,  of  whom  907  are  in  Evie,  18  miles  (N.  W. 
by  N.)  from  Kirkwall.  These  two  ancient  parishes, 
which  appear  to  have  been  united  since  the  time  of  the 
Reformation,  are  situated  on  the  mainland  of  the  Ork- 
ney Isles,  and  are  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Atlantic 
Ocean ;  on  the  north-east  and  east  by  Enhallow  Sound 
or  Frith,  which  separates  them  from  the  islands  of 
Rousay  and  Shapinshay  ;  on  the  south  by  the  parish  of 
Firth  ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  parish  of  Birsay  and 
Harray.  The  coast  is  not  distinguished  by  any  of  those 
prominent  features  which  are  so  conspicuous  on  the 
shores  of  the  other  islands  ;  the  chief  headland  is  Costa, 
at  the  northern  extremity  of  Evie,  a  bold  hill  rising 
from  a  wide  base  to  a  considerable  elevation,  and  pre- 
senting towards  the  sea  a  large  mass  of  precipitous 
rock.  On  the  east,  opposite  to  the  deeply  indented  bay 
of  Woodwick,  is  the  island  of  Gairsa)',  forming  a  part 
of  Rendall,  from  the  main  portion  of  which  it  is  sepa- 
rated by  a  narrow  sound.  This  island  is  of  nearly  cir- 
cular form,  and  about  four  miles  in  circumference ;  the 
ground  rises  from  the  shore,  and  terminates  towards 
the  centre  in  a  beautiful  green  hill,  on  the  summit  of 
which  is  a  cairn. 

The  surface  is  diversified  with  hills  forming  a  conti- 
nuous range,  averaging  from  300  to  400  feet  in  elevation 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  dividing  the  parish  from 
Birsay  and  Harray ;  and  with  several  smaller  hills, 
between  which  are  some  pleasing  and  fertile  valleys. 
Towards  the  sea  it  has  a  gentle  declivity,  varying  from 
half  a  mile  to  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half  in  breadth.  On 
the  boundary  between  Evie  district  and  Birsay  is  a 
beautiful  lake,  about  two  miles  in  length,  and  half  a 
mile  broad,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  small  island  ;  it 
abounds  with  trout  of  excellent  quality,  and,  though  of 
no  great  depth,  is  found  very  serviceable  in  propelling  a 
corn-mill  during  the  summer,  when  other  mills  are  use- 
less from  want  of  water.  The  soil  is  partly  a  rich 
black  loam,  and  partly  clay  alternated  with  sand,  and  in 
Rendall  is  of  lighter  quality  than  in  Evie  ;  there  is  a 
very  considerable,  deposit  of  marl  on  the  shores  of 
•Woodwick  bay,  and  in  the  valleys  which  intersect  the 
hills  is  an  abundance  of  peat-moss.  Peat  bogs  occur  in 
the  lower  lands,  and  in  Rendall  is  a  valley  of  peat-moss, 
which  is  almost  impracticable  from  the  number  of  roots 
and  branches  of  trees  imbedded  in  the  soil.  There  is 
no  timber  of  any  kind,  and  the  only  trees  are  some 
recently  planted  in  the  manse  garden,  of  which  the  per- 
manent growth  seems  very  doubtful.  The  land  in  cul- 
tivation yields  favourable  crops,  and  the  pastures  are 
fertile  ;  the  natural  grasses  are  thickly  interspersed  with 
wild  flowers  of  every  description  :  the  cattle  and  sheep 
reared  in  the  parish  thrive  well.  The  rocks  are  all  of 
the  secondary  formation,  and  vary  from  blue  slate  to 
white  sandstone.  There  is  no  village  :  fairs  for  cattle 
and  horses  are  held  in  June  and  October.     Cod,  ling, 


E  WES 


EYE  M 


haddock,  dog-fish,  skate,  halibut,  and  the  young  of  coal- 
fish  are  found  in  abundance  off  the  coast,  and  many  of 
the  inhabitants  occasionally  engage  in  the  herring- 
fisheries,  but,  though  the  place  is  admirably  suited  for 
the  purpose,  no  regular  fishing  establishment  has  been 
settled  here. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Kirkwall  and  synod  of  Ork- 
ney. The  minister's  stipend  is  £154.  6.,  of  which  more 
than  half  is  paid  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £50  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of 
Zetland.  There  was  originally  a  church  in  each  of  the 
united  districts,  but,  both  falling  into  decay  towards 
the  close  of  the  last  century,  one  church  was  erected  in 
a  centrical  situation  in  1799>  by  the  heritors,  in  lieu  of 
the  two;  it  is  a  neat  structure  containing  498  sittings. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church,  and  Independents.  The  parochial  school  is 
well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £30,  out  of 
which  he  pays  £4  to  an  assistant  for  teaching  a  small 
number  of  children  in  the  island  of  Gairsay  ;  he  has 
also  a  house  and  garden.  A  school  is  supported  by 
the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  Christian  Knowledge. 
Along  the  shores  of  the  parish  are  numerous  Picts' 
houses,  and  in  Evie  several  tumuli,  some  of  which,  on 
being  opened,  were  found  to  contain  small  areas  from 
one  to  two  feet  square,  inclosed  with  fiat' stones,  and 
about  eighteen  inches  in  depth,  and  in  which  were 
ashes,  charcoal,  and  small  fragments  of  burnt  bones. 
In  1S32,  on  taking  down  an  old  farm-building  in  Ken- 
dall, 150  silver  coins  were  found  wrapped  in  coarse 
woollen-cloth,  in  a  hole  in  one  of  the  walls,  supposed 
to  have  been  concealed  there  during  the  visit  of  Crom- 
well ;  they  were  of  the  reigns  of  Elizabeth,  James,  and 
Charles  I.,  with  a  few  of  Scottish  currency. 

EWE,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Gairloch,  county 
of  Ross  and  Cromarty  ;  containing  34  inhabitants.  It 
is  situated  in  Loch  Ewe,  on  the  western  coast  of  the 
county ;  it  is  about  two  miles  in  length,  and  in  some 
parts  nearly  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  is  a  fertile  and  well- 
cultivated  isle,  upon  the  improvement  of  which  much 
care  and  expense  have  been  bestowed.  The  loch  is 
between  eight  and  ten  miles  long,  and  into  its  inner 
part  pours  the  beautiful  stream  of  the  Ewe,  which  is  the 
natural  outlet  from  Loch  Maree  :  this  stream  is  cele- 
brated for  the  abundance  of  its  salmon. 

EWES,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dumfries, 
4  miles  (N.)  from  Langholm  ;  containing  32S  inhabit- 
ants. Ewesdale,  the  former  appellation  of  this  place, 
has  been  long  contracted  into  Ewes,  the  name  of  its 
chief  river,  so  called  from  the  Celtic  Uisge,  signifying 
water.  The  parish  is  eight  miles  in  length,  and  about 
five  and  a  half  in  breadth,  and  contains  31,000  acres; 
it  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  east  by  Roxburghshire, 
on  the  south  by  Langholm  parish,  and  on  the  west  by 
that  of  Westerkirk.  It  is  pastoral  and  mountainous, 
and  the  country  on  both  sides  of  the  river  Ewes,  which 
runs  through  the  parish  for  eight  miles,  is  marked  by 
numerous  hills,  nearly  all  green,  with  the  exception  of 
a  few  parts  overspread  with  heath,  and  affording  cover 
and  food  for  various  kinds  of  game.  The  rivers  abound 
in  fish.  In  the  low  lands  by  the  Ewes  the  soil  is  light 
and  gravelly,  and  produces,  in  favourable  seasons,  good 
crops  of  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips ;  on  the 
higher  grounds  it  approximates  to  a  deep  loam.  The 
Vol.  I.— 409 


number  of  arable  acres  is  1100,  of  natural  pasture 
■23,169,  and  in  wood  and  plantations  200.  The  cattle 
are  of  the  Galloway  breed,  and  the  sheep  are  the  Che- 
viots, and  in  general  amount  to  about  18,000;  the 
parish  consumes  the  produce  of  the  ground  at  home, 
the  chief  profit  consisting  in  the  sale  of  wool,  sheep,  arid 
cattle.  All  the  necessary  improvements  have  been  car- 
ried into  effect,  and  the  farm-buildings  are  in  the  best 
order.  The  principal  rocks  are  greywacke  and  grey- 
wacke  slate.  The  means  of  communication  are  good ; 
the  great  road  from  Edinburgh,  by  Carlisle,  to  London 
runs  for  eight  miles  within  the  parish,  and  there  are  two 
other  public  roads,  one  of  which  leads  to  the  east,  and 
the  other  to  Dumfries  and  Moffat.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £4951.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Langholm  and  synod 
of  Dumfries;  patron,  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch.  The  sti- 
pend is  £'2(21,  with  a  good  manse  and  offices,  and  a 
glebe  of  thirty  arable  acres.  The  church,  an  ancient 
structure,  was  repaired  in  1831,  and  contains  200  sit- 
tings. There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  the  usual 
branches  are  taught,  with  French,  Latin,  Greek,  and 
mathematics  ;  the  master  has  the  maximum  salary,  with 
about  £5  fees,  and  the  legal  accommodations.  Some 
almshouses  were  founded  in  1761,  by  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Malcolm,  minister  of  the  parish,  for  the  support  of 
four  of  the  poorest  families,  to  whom  the  Duke  of  Buc- 
cleuch gives  about  half  an  acre  of  ground  for  a  garden. 
On  the  farm  of  Unthank,  in  the  parish,  are  remains  of 
a  chapel  connected  with  Melrose  Abbey ;  the  burial- 
ground  is  still  in  use.  There  are  also  vestiges  of  two 
encampments,  either  Saxon  or  Pictish. 

EYEMOUTH,  a  sea-port,  burgh  of  barony,  and 
parish,  in  the  county  of  Berwick,  3  miles  (N.  E.)  from 
Ayton,  and  8  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Berwick  ;  containing 
1401  inhabitants.  This  place,  which  derives  its  name 
from  its  situation  at  the  influx  of  the  river  Eye  into  the 
sea,  appears  to  have  been  indebted  for  the  degree  of 
importance  it  possessed  at  a  remote  period  to  its  con- 
nexion with  the  priory  of  Coldingham,  to  which  it  seems 
to  have  been  granted  by  charter  in  the  reign  of  William 
the  Lion.  From  its  advantageous  position,  it  was  pro- 
bably early  made  available  as  a  port  for  the  landing 
and  embarking  of  pilgrims  visiting  the  priory,  and  for 
the  supply  of  that  establishment  with  various  stores  for 
the  use  of  its  numerous  fraternity.  Few  events  of  his- 
torical importance  are  recorded  in  relation  to  the  place 
prior  to  the  erection  of  a  fortress  here  by  the  Duke  of 
Somerset  in  his  invasion  of  the  country  in  the  year 
154",  and  which  was  dismantled  on  the  conclusion  of  a 
treaty  of  peace  between  England  and  France  in  1550; 
it  was  afterwards  restored  and  garrisoned  for  a  time,  but 
was  finally  demolished  at  the  period  of  the  union  of  the 
two  kingdoms.  The  town,  which  is  pleasantly  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Eye,  is  irregularly  built,  but 
contains  many  good  houses  ;  it  is  chiefly  inhabited  by 
persons  employed  in  the  corn  trade,  which  is  carried  on 
to  some  extent,  in  the  fisheries,  and  in  the  various 
handicraft  trades  requisite  for  the  neighbourhood.  The 
streets  are  well  paved,  and  the  inhabitants  are  supplied 
with  water  conveyed  by  iron  pipes.  The  approaches 
are  commodious,  and  a  good  bridge  has  been  built 
across  the  Eye,  near  which  the  turnpike-road  to  Ayton 
branches  off  in  two  directions,  the  one  leading  by  the 
north,  and  the  other  by  the  south,  bank  of  the  river. 

3  G 


E  Y  EM 


E  Y  E  M 


A  chain-bridge,  also,  has  recently  been  thrown  over  the 
Eye,  by  Capt.  Brown,  to  form  a  readier  communication 
with  his  estate  of  Netherbyres.  A  parochial  library  is 
supported  by  subscription,  and  has  a  tolerable  collection 
of  volumes  on  divinity  and  other  subjects. 

The  trade  in  grain,  since  the  establishment  of  the 
market,  has  been  rapidly  increasing,  and  is  now  very 
extensive.  The  quantity  of  grain  sold  in  the  first  year 
after  the  opening  of  the  market  was  estimated  at 
£20,000 ;  warehouses  have  been  erected  on  the  quay, 
and  a  spacious  building  formerly  used  for  barracks  has 
been  converted  into  a  store-house.  On  the  river  is  a 
mill  for  preparing  pearl-barley  and  oatmeal,  of  which 
great  quantities  are  shipped  for  London.  The  manu- 
facture of  paper  has  been  established  at  Millbank,  on 
the  borders  of  the  parish,  where  a  spacious  mill  with 
the  requisite  machinery  has  been  erected,  in  which  a 
considerable  number  of  persons  are  employed ;  and  at 
Gunsgreen,  adjoining  the  harbour,  but  in  Ayton  pa- 
rish, a  distillery  was  till  lately  at  work.  The  post-office, 
which  has  a  good  delivery,  is  a  branch  of  the  office  at 
Ayton.  The  market  is  on  Thursday,  and  is  abundantly 
supplied  with  grain,  and  numerously  attended  ;  and 
two  fairs  are  annually  held  here,  but  very  little  business 
is  transacted.  A  lucrative  fishery  is  carried  on  off  the 
coast ;  the  fish  usually  taken  are,  cod,  haddock,  and 
herrings.  In  the  cod  and  haddock  fishery  about  fifteen 
boats  are  regularly  engaged,  each  of  which  is  managed 
by  six  men,  and  the  yearly  produce  is  estimated  at 
£3000.  The  herring-fishery  is  also  very  productive, 
and  in  1820  afforded  employment  to  more  than  100 
boats,  whose  cargoes  in  that  year  amounted  to  10,000 
barrels  ;  but  since  that  time  it  has  materially  diminished. 
The  cod,  either  dried  or  pickled,  is  generally  sent  to 
London  ;  the  red  or  smoked  herrings  to  London,  Hull, 
Glasgow,  and  Newcastle  ;  and  the  white  or  pickled  her- 
rings to  Ireland,  and  the  ports  of  the  Baltic. 

The  business  of  the  port  consists  chiefly  in  the  ex- 
portation of  grain  and  the  produce  of  the  fisheries  and 
distillery  ;  and  in  the  importation  of  timber,  bones  for 
manure,  rags  for  the  paper  manufacture,  coal,  slates, 
bricks  and  tiles,  freestone,  and  paving  stones,  with 
various  articles  of  general  merchandise.  The  exports 
in  a  recent  year  were,  850  quarters  of  wheat,  4300 
quarters  of  barley,  2800  quarters  of  oats,  and  2800 
gallons  of  spirits  j  the  quantity  of  coal  imported  was 
2367  tons,  and  the  whole  number  of  vessels  that  en- 
tered the  port  was  198.  The  harbour,  which,  previously 
to  the  year  1770,  was  exposed  to  the  north-east  winds, 
was  then  much  improved  and  rendered  more  secure  by 
the  erection  of  a  pier  and  breakwater  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Mr.  Smeaton ;  and  it  has  been  subsequently 
enlarged  and  deepened  by  the  removing  of  shingle  and 
the  clearing  away  of  rocks.  In  1844,  an  extensive 
additional  pier  was  completed.  The  depth  of  water  at 
spring  tides  is  sixteen  feet,  and  at  neap  tides  ten  feet ; 
and  from  its  situation  in  the  German  Ocean,  and  its 
facility  of  access,  the  harbour  is  much  frequented  by 
vessels  detained  by  contrary  winds.  The  custom-house 
is  superintended  by  a  principal  coast-officer  and  two  tide- 
waiters,  who  reside  on  the  spot ;  and  the  care  and 
management  of  the  port  are  under  the  controul  of  a 
board  of  trustees  appointed  by  act  of  parliament.  The 
town  was  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony  by  charter 
granted  in  1597,  by  James  VI.,  in  favour  of  Sir  George 
410 


Home,  of  Wedderburn,  with  all  the  usual  privileges, 
and  is  governed  by  a  baron-bailie  appointed  by  the 
superior  of  the  barony.  With  the  consent  of  the  supe- 
rior, the  burgesses  had  power  to  elect  magistrates,  to 
erect  a  gaol,  and  hold  courts  for  the  trial  of  all  offences 
not  capital,  and  for  the  determination  of  civil  pleas  to  an 
unlimited  amount,  together  with  a  weekly  market  and 
two  annual  fairs  ;  but  the  only  jurisdiction  exercised  by 
the  bailie  is  the  occasional  holding  of  a  court  for  the 
determination  of  petty  causes. 

The  parish  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  and 
nearly  of  equal  breadth,  and  comprises  880  acres,  of 
which,  with  the  exception  of  about  20  in  woodland, 
plantation,  and  a  few  acres  of  pasture,  the  whole  is 
arable.  The  surface  is  varied,  and  in  some  parts  rocky, 
and  the  scenery  is  diversified  with  wood  and  water. 
The  river  Eye  has  its  source  at  Dodhill,  in  the  parish  of 
Oldhamstocks,  and,  after  flowing  through  Cockburns- 
path,  Coldingham,  and  Ayton,  forms  the  eastern  boun- 
dary of  this  parish  for  about  a  mile,  and  falls  into  the  sea. 
The  Ale,  a  small  rivulet,  runs  for  some  miles  through  a 
picturesque  valley,  then  constitutes  the  southern  boun- 
dary, and  joins  the  Eye  at  the  south-eastern  extremity 
of  the  parish.  The  soil  is  every  where  extremely  rich 
and  fertile ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  very  ad- 
vanced state,  and  the  four  and  six  shift  rotations  of 
husbandry  equally  prevail :  the  crops  are,  wheat,  barley, 
oats,  potatoes,  and  turnips.  Bone-dust  and  sea-wrack 
are  amply  used  for  manure ;  the  lands  are  well  drained 
and  inclosed,  and  all  the  more  recent  improvements  in 
implements  have  been  adopted.  The  sheep  are  of  the 
Leicestershire  breed,  and  the  cattle  of  the  short-horned 
or  Teeswater;  very  few  of  either  are  reared  in  the  parish, 
but  a  considerable  number  are  bought,  and  fed  for  the 
market  on  turnips  and  grass.  The  chief  substrata  are, 
greywacke,  greywacke  slate,  and  old  red  sandstone,  with 
rocks  of  trap  and  porphyry  ;  there  is  also  a  rock  of 
breccia  or  coarse  conglomerate,  forming  the  promontory 
that  bounds  the  bay.  This  stone,  of  which  the  break- 
water and  quays  of  the  harbour  were  constructed,  is  of 
excellent  quality  ;  it  is  occasionally  quarried  for  build- 
ing, and  can  be  raised  in  masses  of  any  size.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £2683.  The  manor- 
house  of  Linthill  is  an  ancient  edifice,  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  banks  of  the  Ale,  near  its  influx  into  the  river 
Eye,  and  commands  a  finely-varied  prospect,  embracing 
the  harbour,  with  the  shipping,  and  the  sea  in  the  dis- 
tance. The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Chirnside  and 
synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and  patronage  of  the 
Crown  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £130.  19.  6.,  exclusively 
of  a  composition  for  tithes  of  fish,  for  which  each  boat 
pays  £1.  13.  4.,  with  an  excellent  manse,  and  a  glebe  of 
above  9  acres.  The  church,  situated  in  the  centre  of 
the  town,  was  erected  in  1812  ;  it  is  a  neat  edifice  with 
a  tower,  containing  little  exterior  embellishment,  and  is 
adapted  for  a  congregation  of  450  persons.  There  are 
places  of  worship  for  the  Free  Church,  the  Secession,  and 
Primitive  Methodists.  The  parochial  school  affords  a 
liberal  course  of  instruction;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £34,  with  £23  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  There 
are  some  remains  of  the  fort  erected  by  the  Duke  of 
Somerset,  occupying  a  considerable  site  on  the  promon- 
tory projecting  into  the  sea,  which,  from  its  command- 
ing position,  affords  an  extensive  prospect :  little  is  left 
except  the  foundations,  now  covered  with  verdure,  but 


FAIR 


F  A  L  A 


it  would  appear  to  have  been  a  place  of  great  extent 
and  of  massive  proportions.  The  adjacent  grounds 
have  been  tastefully  laid  out,  and  form  an  interesting 
and  much  frequented  promenade.  Eyemouth  gave  the 
title  of  Baron  to  the  great  Duke  of  Marlborough. 


F 

FAIFLEY,  a  village,  in  that  part  of  the  parish 
of  Old  Kilpatrick  which  formed  the  late  quoad 
sacra  parish  of  Duntocher,  county  of  Dumbarton, 
2£  miles  (E.  N.  E.)  from  Old  Kilpatrick  ;  containing 
321  inhabitants.  This  place  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Dun- 
tocher, and  is  one  of  several  villages  within  a  mile  of 
each  other  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Clyde,  owing 
their  prosperity  to  the  recent  introduction  of  the  cotton 
and  woollen  manufactures,  and  the  erection  of  mills, 
steam-engines,  and  other  machinery  and  facilities  for 
their  production,  chiefly  through  the  spirit  and  enter- 
prise of  Mr.  William  Dunn,  a  resident  proprietor  of 
land  here.  About  the  year  IS  12,  Mr.  Dunn  purchased 
the  mill  of  the  Faifley  Spinning  Company,  by  whom 
this  branch  of  business  had  been  carried  on  for  some 
time  previously,  but  on  a  limited  scale ;  and  having 
made  large  additions  to  the  buildings,  and  invited  the 
industry  of  the  inhabitants  by  the  most  liberal  en- 
couragement, the  village  soon  increased  in  extent  and 
population.  Besides  the  spinning  and  weaving  of  cotton, 
the  chief  product  of  the  place,  there  are  iron- works,  in 
which  spades,  shovels,  and  other  articles  are  made ;  and 
some  minor  manufactures.  The  principal  stream  in  the 
parish,  which  issues  from  two  lochs  behind  the  Kil- 
patrick braes,  passes  here,  and  falls  into  the  Clyde  at 
Dalmuir.     There  are  two  small  schools. 

FAIR,  an  island,  forming  part  of  the  parish  of  Dun- 
rossness,  in  the  county  of  Shetland  ;  and  containing 
232  inhabitants.  It  lies  between  the  Orkney  and  Shet- 
land groups,  and  is  about  three  miles  in  length  and 
nearly  two  in  breadth,  rising  into  three  lofty  promon- 
tories, and  encompassed  with  precipitous  rocks.  The 
island  is  every  where  inaccessible,  except  upon  the 
south-east,  where,  lowering  itself  a  little,  it  affords  a 
safe  station  for  small  vessels.  The  Sheep  Craig,  one  of 
the  promontories,  is  nearly  insulated,  rising  from  the 
sea  in  a  conical  shape  to  an  elevation  of  480  feet.  The 
soil  is  moderately  fertile,  and  the  hills  are  clothed  with 
excellent  pasturage  for  sheep  ;  the  place  is  thickly  peo- 
pled, and  the  inhabitants  are  chiefly  engaged  in  the 
taking  of  saith,  about  forty  tons  of  which,  when  dried, 
they  send  annually  to  the  Leith  market :  the  ling  and 
cod  fishing  formerly  prosecuted  has  been  discontinued 
on  account  of  its  distance  from  the  island.  The  houses 
are  clustered  together  on  the  southern  shores  in  the 
form  of  small  hamlets,  or,  as  they  are  here  called,  towns, 
and  are  named  respectively  Seutter,  Taing,  Shirva,  Leogh, 
Bousta,  and  Gelah.  A  substantial  church,  capable  of 
accommodating  120  persons,  was  built  by  the  proprietor 
of  the  isle  many  years  ago,  at  a  cost  of  £150,  and  is 
distant  from  the  parish  church  thirty-five  miles.  There 
is  also  a  good  school.  In  15SS,  the  flag-ship  of  the  Duke 
de  Medina-Sidonia,  the  admiral  of  the  Spanish  armada, 
was  wrecked  on  this  island,  and  tradition  points  out  the 
humble  residence  of  the  shipwrecked  commander. 
411 


FAIRLIE,  a  village,  and  lately  a  quoad  sacra  dis- 
trict, in  the  parish  of  Largs,  district  of  Cunninghams, 
county  of  Ayr,  3  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from  Largs  ;  contain- 
ing 521  inhabitants.  This  district  consists  of  the  south- 
ern division,  and  comprehends  about  one-third,  of  the 
parish  of  Largs  ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Frith 
of  Clyde,  and  the  land  rises  rather  abruptly  from  the 
shore,  and  terminates  in  two  distinct  chains  of  hills  on 
each  side  of  the  Kelburn.  The  loftiest  of  these  hills 
attains  an  elevation  of  nearly  2000  feet,  and  their  sub- 
strata are  red  and  white  freestone  to  the  height  of  be- 
tween 300  and  500  feet,  and  whinstone  on  the  upper 
range :  at  the  division  of  the  hills,  pudding-stone  abounds. 
Of  5000  acres,  not  more  than  200  or  250  are  under 
tillage,  and  about  the  same  quantity  in  natural  wood 
and  plantations ;  the  low  parterres  of  Kelburn,  the 
richest  in  Ayrshire,  let  at  from  five  to  six  pounds  per 
acre.  The  chief  owner  of  the  soil  is  the  Earl  of  Glas- 
gow, whose  seat  of  Kelburn  is  a  beautiful  mansion,  of 
which  the  more  substantial  part  was  built  in  1556,  and 
the  principal  modern  additions  in  1715. 

The  village  of  Fairlie  is  seated  on  the  coast  of  the 
Clyde,  and  on  the  line  of  the  turnpike-road  from  Greenock 
to  Ayr ;  it  is  a  very  pleasant  little  place,  much  fre- 
quented during  the  summer  and  autumn  by  visiters  who 
resort  hither  from  the  large  and  populous  towns  for  the 
benefit  of  the  sea  air  and  for  bathing.  The  climate  is 
remarkably  salubrious  ;  and  the  retired  and  picturesque 
character  of  the  vicinity,  ornamented  with  numerous 
villas  and  much  beautiful  scenery,  renders  it  a  popular 
and  very  favourite  spot,  preferred  by  many  strangers 
to  the  bustling  town  of  Largs,  also  a  well-frequented 
watering-place.  There  is  much  cod,  ling,  and  haddock 
fishing,  and  herrings  are  occasionally  caught  :  at  Kel- 
burn is  a  salmon-fishery.  Steam-boats  from  Glasgow 
and  Greenock  call  at  the  village  daily  in  summer.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  presbytery  of  Greenock 
and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  the  patronage  is 
vested  in  the  Managers  and  Communicants :  the  stipend 
is  £75,  arising  from  seat-rents  and  from  ordinary,  and 
two  special,  collections.  The  church  was  built  in  1833-4, 
at  an  expense  of  about  £650,  and  contains  300  sittings. 
The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  wor- 
ship. There  is  an  excellent  school-house,  of  which  the 
master  has  the  interest  of  £300,  bequeathed  by  Lady 
Jane  Boyle,  sister  of  the  Earl  of  Glasgow,  and  of  £100 
added  by  Glasgow  gentlemen  who  have  summer  resi- 
dences around  Fairlie  :  the  noble  proprietor  of  Kelburn 
has  also  given  him  a  house.  Attached  to  the  church  is 
a  library,  and  another  to  the  school.  Of  Fairlie  Castle, 
a  strong  square  building,  said  to  have  belonged  to  Hardi- 
canute,  the  walls  are  still  entire ;  and  near  it,  but  in 
West  Kilbride  parish,  are  remains  of  an  ancient  chapel, 
round  which  are  some  fine  old  trees.  Kelburn  confers 
the  title  of  Viscount  on  the  Earl  of  Glasgow. 

FALA  and  SOUTRA,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county 
of  Haddington,  but  chiefly  in  that  of  Edinburgh  ; 
containing,  with  part  of  the  village  of  Faladam,  393 
inhabitants,  of  whom  112  are  in  the  village  of  Fala, 
S|  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Dalkeith.  The  name  of  Fala  is 
derived  from  Fah,  in  the  Anglo-Saxon,  "  speckled,"  and 
law,  the  description  of  hill  upon  which  the  church 
stands:  Soulra  signifies  "the  hamlet  with  a  prospect." 
In  1164,  an  hospital  for  the  relief  of  pilgrims,  dedicated 
to  the  Holy  Trinity,  was    founded    at  Soutra  by  Mal- 

3  G2 


F  A  L  A 


FALK 


colm  IV.,  who  conferred  upon  it  the  privilege  of'  sanc- 
tuary ;  and  its  endowments,  which  were  very  extensive, 
embraced  the  churches  of  Soutra,  Wemyss,  in  Fife,  St. 
Giles  of  Comiston,  and  several  others.  The  revenues 
were  subsequently  vested  in  Trinity  College  and  Hos- 
pital in  Edinburgh,  and  afterwards,  about  1560,  in  the 
town  council  of  that  city.  The  patronage  of  the  church 
of  Fala,  of  which  the  history  is  very  obscure,  belonged 
previously  to  the  Reformation  to  the  family  of  Edmes- 
town ;  and  in  the  year  1618,  on  the  20th  February,  the 
two  parishes  were  united,  and  the  property  after  some 
time  descended  to  the  Hamiltons  of  Preston,  and  the 
estate  of  Faia,  through  their  heiress,  to  Sir  John  Dal- 
rymple,  of  Cousland  :  the  present  proprietor  of  Fala 
proper  is  the  Earl  of  Stair.  The  church  of  Soutra, 
having  been  abandoned,  became  a  ruin ;  and  the  walls 
of  one  of  its  aisles,  and  some  occasional  irregularities 
of  surface  indicating  prostrate  dwellings,  are  now  the 
only  vestiges  of  the  former  village,  once  so  considerable 
and  populous. 

The  parish  is  about  five  miles  in  length,  from  east 
to  west,  and  three  and  a  half  in  breadth,  from  north  to 
south.  The  western  division  of  it  consists  of  a  ridge 
of  the  Lammermoor  hills,  laid  out,  with  the  exception 
of  some  patches  in  tillage,  for  the  pasturage  of  sheep  ; 
and  the  eastern  division,  which  is  chiefly  of  a  clayey 
soil  and  of  an  undulated  surface,  is  in  good  cultivation, 
producing  all  the  crops  common  to  the  district  of  the 
Lothians.  There  are  considerable  tracts  of  moss  and 
moorland,  and  a  large  extent  of  marsh,  whence  issues 
a  sheet  of  water  on  Fala  muir,  called  the  Flow.  The 
prevailing  scenery,  however,  is  very  beautiful,  and  in- 
cludes many  objects  of  interest  and  admiration.  Among 
these  may  be  mentioned,  Soutra  hill,  which  forms  the 
western  point  of  the  Lammermoors,  and  is  upwards  of 
1200  feet  above  the  sea;  the  mansion  and  lands  of 
Woodcot ;  Costerton  House,  very  romantically  situated  ; 
the  rich  fields  and  wooded  inclosures  around  the  an- 
cient halls  of  Hamilton  and  Fala ;  and  the  cascade  of 
Liundean,  and  several  intersecting  rivulets.  The  wider 
prospect  from  Soutra  hill  presents  numerous  handsome 
residences,  the  highly-cultivated  plains  of  the  Lothians, 
the  Fentland  hills,  and  castle  of  Edinburgh,  with  the 
Frith  of  Forth  and  the  coasts  of  Fife  in  the  distance. 

The  system  of  husbandry  in  the  parish  has  been 
latterly  much  improved  ;  the  lands  have  been  partly 
drained,  and  inclosed,  chiefly  with  hedges  of  thorn  ;  and 
material  advantage  will  arise  from  the  drainage  of 
Fala  Flow,  a  measure  already  in  progress.  The  sheep, 
of  which  considerable  numbers  are  reared  on  the  moor- 
land farms,  are  mostly  a  cross  between  the  Gala-water 
and  Tweedsmuir  breeds,  with  a  few  of  the  Cheviot ; 
and  a  moderate  number  of  black-cattle,  and  a  few 
horses  for  the  plough,  are  also  reared.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  Edinburghshire  portion  of  the 
parish  is  £1583,  and  of  the  Haddingtonshire  portion 
£1298.  The  village  of  Fala  is  situated  on  a  com- 
manding eminence,  and  in  its  immediate  vicinity  are 
the  commodious  inn  and  hamlet  of  Blackshiels,  the 
post-place  of  the  district :  a  little  northward  of  the 
latter  is  Faladam,  partly  in  the  parish  of  Crichton.  The 
great  road  between  Edinburgh  and  Lauder  affords  a 
facility  of  communication.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of 
Dalkeith  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  the 
412 


stipend  of  the  minister  is  £169,  of  which  more  than 
one-half  is  received  from  the  exchequer,  and  there  is  a 
manse,  with  a  glebe  valued  at  £25.  10.  per  annum. 
The  patronage  is  vested  in  the  Earl  of  Stair  and  the 
Town  Council  of  Edinburgh.  The  church,  which  is 
pleasantly  seated  on  an  eminence  overlooking  the  vil- 
lage, is  a  plain  and  unpretending  edifice,  affording 
accommodation  to  250  persons.  There  is  a  place  of 
worship  for  Burghers.  The  parochial  school  is  attended 
by  about  eighty  children  ;  the  master  has  the  maximum 
salary,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average 
about  £25  per  annum.  A  good  parish  library  has  been 
formed  by  the  contributions  of  the  inhabitants.  On 
Soutra  hill  are  some  ruins  of  the  hospital;  and  the 
aisle  of  the  ancient  church  is  used  as  the  burial-place  of 
a  neighbouring  family. 

FALADAM,  a  hamlet,  partly  in  the  parish  of 
Crichton,  and  partly  in  that  of  Fala,  county  of 
Edinburgh  ;  containing  64  inhabitants.  It  lies  on 
the  road  from  Lauder  to  Edinburgh,  and  is  distant 
about  half  a  mile  north-west  from  the  village  of  Fala. 
The  population  is  employed  in  tending  sheep  and  cul- 
tivating the  soil. 

FALKIRK,  a  burgh,  mar- 
ket-town, and  parish,  in  the 
count}'  of  Stirling;  in- 
cluding the  villages  of  Bar- 
leyside,  Bonnybridge,  Came- 
lon,  Glen,  and  Laurieston, 
1M£.  with  part  of  the  late  quoad 
sacra  district  of  Grange- 
mouth ;  and  containing 
15,621  inhabitants,  of  whom 
S209  are  in  the  town, 
11  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Stir- 
ling, and  24  (W.  by.-N.)  from 
Edinburgh.  This  place,  which  is  situated  on  the  ancient 
boundary  between  the  Roman  territories  on  the  south, 
and  those  of  the  Caledonians  on  the  north,  is  supposed 
to  have  derived  its  former  name,  Eccles-brae,  from  the 
position  of  its  church  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  of  which 
that  appellation  is  accurately  descriptive.  According 
to  some  writers,  the  present  name  arose  from  the  place 
being  near  the  wall  of  Antonine,  and  was  originally 
Wall-Kirk,  of  which  the  term  Falkirk  is  a  modification. 
From  its  situation,  it  became  at  a  very  early  period 
the  scene  of  numerous  sanguinary  conflicts,  in  one 
of  which,  between  the  Roman  forces  and  those  of 
Fergus  II.,  in  the  year  415,  Robert  de  Graham,  the 
commander  of  the  king's  army,  was  slain,  and  his  re- 
mains interred  in  the  churchyard,  from  which  circum- 
stance that  portion  of  the  wall  within  the  parish  received 
the  appellation  of  Graham's  Dyke.  In  129S,  a  battle 
took  place  to  the  north  of  the  town,  near  the  present 
village  of  Grahamston,  between  the  army  of  Edward  I. 
of  England  and  the  Scots  under  William  Wallace,  in 
which  Sir  John  Graham  of  Dundaff,  and  Sir  John 
Stewart  of  Bonkill,  who  commanded  divisions  of  the 
Scottish  army,  were  both  killed  ;  the  Scots,  dispirited 
by  the  fall  of  their  leaders,  and  overpowered  by  num- 
bers, were  compelled  to  give  way,  and,  after  a  dreadful 
carnage  on  each  side,  crossing  the  river  Carron,  re- 
treated northwards.  Sir  John  Graham  and  Sir  John 
Stewart  were  interred  in  the  churchyard,  where  their 
grave-stones    are    still    preserved.       In    the    reign    of 


Bursh  Seal. 


FA.LK 


FALK 


James  III.,  the  town  was  for  some  time  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  discontented  nobles  who  had  risen  in 
rebellion  against  their  sovereign  and  assembled  a  nume- 
rous army  at  this  place;  but,  previously  to  the  arrival 
of  the  royal  troops,  which  were  on  their  march  to  attack 
them  here,  the  rebel  forces  advanced  to  Sauchie-Burn, 
near  Stirling,  where  a  battle  took  place,  which  termi- 
nated in  the  defeat  and  death  of  that  monarch.  In 
1543,  a  meeting  was  held  at  Callendar  House,  the  seat 
of  Lord  Livingstone,  in  this  parish,  between  the  Earl  of 
Arran,  regent  of  Scotland,  and  Cardinal  Beaton  and 
the  Earl  of  Moray,  when  a  treaty  was  concluded,  which 
put  an  end  to  the  projected  union  of  the  Princess  Mary, 
afterwards  Queen  of  Scots,  and  Prince  Edward,  the  son 
of  Henry  VIII.  of  England.  Callendar  House  was  fre- 
quently visited  by  Mary,  who,  with  part  of  her  retinue, 
halted  here  on  her  route  to  the  north  in  156?,  and  in 
1565  became  sponsor  at  the  baptism  of  the  infant  son 
of  William,  the  sixth  Lord  Livingstone.  In  1567,  the 
queen,  with  her  infant  son,  afterwards  James  VI.,  spent 
a  night  at  Callendar,  on  her  route  to  visit  her  husband, 
Lord  Darnley,  at  Glasgow  ;  and  also,  on  her  return, 
accompanied  by  Darnley,  spent  a  day  here,  and  on  the 
following  morning  proceeded  to  Ediuburgh.  After  the 
queen's  escape  from  the  castle  of  Lochleven,  Lord 
Livingstone  welcomed  her  arrival  at  Niddry  Castle ; 
and  at  the  battle  of  Langside,  after  distinguishing  him- 
self for  his  fidelity  and  valour  at  the  head  of  his  vassals, 
accompanied  her  in  her  flight  from  the  field,  and,  with 
Lady  Livingstone,  attended  her  in  the  various  prisons 
in  which  she  was  afterwards  confined  by  Elizabeth. 
These  faithful  adherents  of  the  queen,  and  companions 
of  her  misfortunes,  died  in  England  in  15*3,  and  their 
remains  were  conveyed  for  interment  in  the  church  of 
Falkirk. 

During  the  minority  of  James  VI.,  the  Earl  of  Mor- 
ton, who  had  resigned  the  regency  of  Scotland,  having 
seized  the  person  of  the  king,  and  obtained  possession 
of  the  castle  of  Stirling,  assembled  a  considerable  army 
of  his  friends,  and  encamped  at  Falkirk,  where,  also, 
the  army  of  his  opponents  soon  arrived  to  offer  him 
battle  ;  but,  just  as  the  engagement  was  about  to  take 
place,  a  truce  was  agreed  to  on  both  sides,  and  a  treaty 
was  subsequently  concluded,  which  was  published  at 
the  market-crosses  of  Stirling  and  this  town  in  15/S. 
In  the  parliamentary  war  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I., 
James,  the  first  earl  of  Callendar,  who  was  a  firm  ad- 
herent of  the  king,  became  a  commander  in  the  army 
which  marched  to  his  relief  when  a  prisoner  in  the  Isle 
of  Wight,  attended  by  a  large  body  of  his  Falkirk  re- 
tainers. On  the  defeat  of  these  forces,  the  earl  retired 
to  Holland  ;  and  the  inhabitants  of  this  place,  forcing 
their  way  through  the  ranks  of  the  victorious  parlia- 
mentarians, returned  home.  After  the  battle  of  Dun- 
bar, in  1650,  Cromwell  marched  to  the  Torwood,  in 
the  vicinity  of  Falkirk,  in  pursuit  of  the  royal  army, 
and  on  his  route  stormed  and  took  possession  of  Cal- 
lendar House,  in  which  a  garrison  had  been  placed. 
The  siege  was  carried  on  with  great  obstinacy,  and  many 
fell  on  both  sides  before  the  garrison  surrendered  ;  the 
houses  in  the  town  were  plundered  by  the  troops  of 
Cromwell,  and  the  church  was  occupied  by  his  soldiers 
as  stabling  for  their  horses.  On  the  removal  of  the 
old  gates  of  the  mansion  of  Callendar,  by  the  late  pro- 
prietor, numerous  remains  of  those  who  fell  during  the 
413 


siege  were  discovered.  During  the  rebellion  of  1745,  a 
battle  occurred  on  the  moors  to  the  south-west  of  the 
town,  between  the  forces  under  General  Hawley  and  a 
party  of  Highlanders  in  the  service  of  the  Pretender, 
in  which  the  numbers  on  each  side  have  been  estimated 
at  8000.  The  combat  terminated  in  the  total  defeat 
of  the  royal  forces,  of  whom  nearly  300  were  left  dead 
on  the  field  ;  and  among  those  who  fell  were  Sir  Robert 
Munro  of  Foulis,  and  his  brother,  Dr.  Munro,  to  whose 
memory  a  monument  was  raised  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  churchyard.  The  titles  of  Linlithgow  and  Callendar 
became  united  in  James,  the  fifth  earl  of  Linlithgow 
and  fourth  earl  of  Callendar,  on  whose  joining  in  the 
rebellion  of  1745  they  became  extinct ;  the  estates  had 
been  sold  in  1720  to  the  York  Buildings'  Company, 
and  on  its  dissolution  were  purchased  by  the  late 
William  Forbes,  Esq.,  father  of  the  present  proprietor. 
The  lands  of  Kerse,  in  the  parish,  were  bought  in  16S3 
from  Sir  William  Livingstone,  of  Kilsyth,  a  branch  of 
the  Callendar  family,  by  Sir  Thomas  Hope,  king's  ad- 
vocate, from  whom  they  descended  to  his  second  son, 
one  of  the  lords  of  session,  and  afterwards  lord  justice- 
general.  They  were  subsequently  purchased  by  Law- 
rence Dundas,  Esq.,  of  Edinburgh,  whose  son,  Sir 
Thomas,  was  created  a  peer  in  1794  by  the  title  of 
Lord  Dundas ;  on  his  demise  they  passed  to  his  son, 
Lawrence,  who  was  created  Earl  of  Zetland  in  1S3S, 
and  they  are  now  the  property  of  Thomas,  the 
second  earl. 

The  town  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Linlithgow 
to  Glasgow,  and  consists  of  one  principal  street,  nearly 
a  mile  in  length,  and  of  several  smaller  streets  parallel 
with  it,  or  diverging  from  it  in  various  directions;  the 
houses,  of  which  many  are  of  modern  date,  are  hand- 
some and  well  built.  In  the  High-street  is  the  town- 
house,  erected  in  IS  13,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  steeple 
built  in  1697,  and  taken  down  in  1S03;  the  present 
edifice  has  an  elegant  spire  140  feet  high,  and  forms  a 
great  ornament.  The  town  is  well  paved,  lighted  with 
gas,  and  amply  supplied  with  water.  Owing  to  its  situa- 
tion on  an  eminence,  from  which  is  a  gentle  declivity 
on  both  sides,  it  is  always  dry  and  clean  ;  and,  admit- 
ting a  free  circulation  of  air,  it  is  regarded  as  a  healthful 
place  of  residence.  From  the  main  street,  a  street 
called  the  Kirk  Wynd  extends  for  more  than  a  mile  to 
the  north,  connecting  the  town  with  the  villages  of 
Grahamston  and  Bainsford,  and  has  handsome  ranges 
of  modern  houses  on  each  side.  About  a  mile  to  the 
west  of  the  town  is  the  populous  village  of  Camelon  ; 
and  nearly  at  the  same  distance  to  the  east  is  Laurieston, 
beyond  which,  close  to  the  junction  of  the  Forth  and 
Clyde  canal  with  the  river  Carron,  is  the  populous  and 
flourishing  town  and  port  of  Grangemouth,  which,  with 
the  various  other  villages  in  the  parish,  is  noticed 
under  its  own  head.  There  are  several  libraries  in 
the  town,  supported  by  subscription,  of  which  the  prin- 
cipal, established  in  1792,  has  a  collection  of  more 
than  3000  volumes;  a  circulating  library  contains  1200, 
and  a  Relief-Church  library  1000  volumes.  Public 
subscription  reading  and  news  rooms  are  also  well  sup- 
ported. A  school  of  arts  was  founded  in  1827,  and 
has  continued  to  increase  ;  it  possesses  a  library  of  600 
volumes,  and  lectures  on  natural  history  and  the  arts 
and  sciences  are  delivered  weekly  by  the  members.  A 
horticultural  society  has  been  for  some  time  established 


F  A  L  K 


F  A  L  K 


in  the  town,  under  very  extensive  patronage ;  the 
members  hold  meetings  four  times  during  the  season, 
when  exhibitions  of  fruits  and  flowers  take  place. 

Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  employed  in  the  Carron 
iron-works,  a  most  important  concern  in  the  adjoining 
parish  of  Larbert ;  the  principal  manufactures  carried 
on  in  Falkirk  parish  are  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
the  town,  and  in  the  several  villages.  Of  the  establish- 
ments in  the  vicinity  of  the  town,  the  most  extensive  are 
the  Falkirk  iron-works,  seated  on  each  side  of  the 
Forth  and  Clyde  canal,  about  half  a  mile  distant,  and 
in  which  about  700  persons  are  occupied  in  the  manu- 
facture of  small  castings  of  every  description,  including 
pans,  kettles,  stove-grates,  and  various  other  articles  for 
the  home  trade  and  for  exportation.  There  are  four 
tanneries  near  the  town,  in  three  of  which  the  currying 
of  leather  also  takes  place,  and  in  the  other  the  dressing 
of  sheep  and  lamb  skins  ;  they  together  afford  employ- 
ment to  about  fifty  persons.  The  weaving  of  muslin 
and  coarse  linen,  formerly  much  more  extensive,  is  car- 
ried on  by  about  forty  of  the  inhabitants,  chiefly  for  the 
Glasgow  manufacturers  :  in  the  town  is  a  large  brewery 
for  porter  and  ale,  of  which  latter  considerable  quan- 
tities are  sent  to  London  :  several  persons  are  also 
employed  in  building  vessels  for  the  trade  on  the  canal, 
for  which  there  is  a  yard  upon  its  banks.  The  making 
of  nails  is  carried  on  at  Camelon,  where  is  also  a  distil- 
lery ;  at  Castlecary,  Bonnyside,  and  near  Bainsford, 
are  extensive  saw-mills  ;  and  at  Grahamston  are  works 
for  the  manufacture  of  pyroligneous  acid.  From  its 
vicinity  to  the  Carron  iron-works,  from  the  extensive 
collieries  around,  and  the  great  cattle  trysts  which 
are  held  on  Stenhouse  Muir,  Falkirk  derives  its  chief 
traffic  ;  and  it  is  generally  the  resort  of  the  dealers 
attending  those  markets,  and  of  numerous  persons  con- 
nected with  the  works  in  the  vicinity,  who  make  it 
their  head-quarters,  and  for  whose  accommodation  there 
are  numerous  commodious  inns,  and  shops  amply  sup- 
plied with  stores  and  merchandise  of  every  variety. 
The  post-office  has  two  daily  deliveries  from  Edinburgh 
and  Glasgow,  and  one  from  Stirling,  Alloa,  and  the 
neighbouring  towns ;  and  there  are  branch  offices  at 
Grangemouth,  Camelon,  Grahamston,  and  Laurieston. 
The  old  Falkirk  Bank  has  been  superseded  by  a  branch 
of  the  Bank  of  Scotland  ;  there  are  also  branches  of  the 
National  Bank  and  Clydesdale  Banking  Company,  and 
the  Commercial  Banking  Company  have  a  concern  here, 
for  which  a  very  handsome  building  has  been  erected  in 
the  High-street. 

Facilities  of  communication  are  afforded  by  numerous 
good  roads  that  intersect  the  parish,  by  the  Forth  and 
Clyde  and  the  Union  canals,  and  by  the  Edinburgh  and 
Glasgow  railway,  which  passes  south  of  the  town,  for 
eight  miles  through  the  parish.  The  Forth  and  Clyde 
canal  was  commenced  in  1768,  under  an  act  of  parlia- 
ment enabling  the  company  to  raise  a  capital  of 
£150,000,  in  shares  of  £100  each,  and  was  completed 
in  1790  by  a  grant  of  £50,000  from  government;  the 
whole  length  is  thirty-eight  and  a  half  miles,  from 
Grangemouth,  in  this  parish,  to  the  Clyde  at  Glasgow. 
The  summit  level  is  141  feet  above  the  sea,  and  is 
attained  by  twenty  locks  on  the  east,  and  nineteen  on 
the  western  side  ;  the  breadth  of  the  canal  at  the  sur- 
face is  fifty-six  feet,  and  at  the  bottom  twenty-seven 
feet,  and  the  average  depth  nine  feet.  It  is  navigable 
414 


for  vessels  of  eighty  or  ninety  tons,  and  passes  through 
the  entire  length  of  the  parish.  The  Union  canal,  extend- 
ing to  Edinburgh,  was  commenced  in  1818,  and  com- 
pleted in  1S22  ;  the  breadth  is  forty  feet  at  the  surface, 
and  twenty  feet  at  the  bottom,  and  its  mean  depth  is 
five  feet ;  it  enters  the  parish  on  the  east,  and  runs 
through  it  for  about  three  miles  to  its  junction  with  the 
Forth  and  Clyde  canal.  The  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow 
railway  enters  the  parish  from  Polmont,  on  the  east,  and 
passes  through  it  in  a  direction  almost  parallel  with  the 
Union  canal,  over  which,  near  the  termination  of  the 
canal,  it  is  carried  by  an  arch  of  130  feet  in  span;  and 
its  progress  is  continued  at  Callendar  by  a  tunnel  S45 
yards  in  length,  twenty-six  feet  in  width,  and  twenty- 
two  feet  in  height.  A  branch  from  the  line  is  in  con- 
templation to  the  town  of  Falkirk,  about  half  a  mile 
distant.  The  market,  which  is  amply  supplied  with 
grain  and  provisions  of  all  kinds,  is  on  Thursday ;  and 
exclusively  of  the  great  cattle  trysts  on  Stenhouse 
Muir,  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Larbert,  nine  fairs  are 
held  in  the  town,  on  the  first  Thursdays  in  March, 
April,  and  November,  the  second  Thursdays  in  June 
and  July,  the  third  Thursdays  in  May  and  August,  and 
the  last  Thursdays  in  January  and  October ;  they 
are  chiefly  for  cattle  and  horses,  and  are  very  nume- 
rously attended.  The  inhabitants  received  a  charter 
from  James  VI.,  erecting  the  town  into  a  free  burgh 
of  barony;  and  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II.,  the  Earl  of 
Callendar  obtained  a  charter  constituting  it  a  royal 
burgh,  with  liberty  to  elect  magistrates,  create  free  bur- 
gesses, to  hold  courts,  and  to  have  a  prison,  and  the 
privilege  of  two  weekly  markets  and  four  annual  fairs. 
The  controul  has  been  for  many  years  vested  in  two 
separate  bodies,  called  the  stent-masters  and  feuars ; 
the  stent-masters  are  twenty-four  in  number,  of  whom 
four  are  chosen  by  the  merchants,  and  two  by  each  of 
the  several  trades.  Both  these  bodies  elect  from  among 
themselves  a  president  and  treasurer  ;  the  former  attend 
to  the  lighting  of  the  town  and  the  supply  of  the  inha- 
bitants with  water,  and  the  latter  principally  to  the 
tolls  and  customs,  and  the  management  of  the  town 
estates.  The  burgh  exercises  no  magisterial  jurisdic- 
tion; courts  of  justice  are  held  monthly  under  the 
superintendence  of  a  sheriff-depute  who  resides  here. 
By  act  of  William  IV.,  the  town  received  a  municipal 
charter  vesting  the  government  in  a  provost,  three 
bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  seven  councillors  ;  but,  no  funds 
having  been  assigned  for  defraying  expenses,  the  corpo- 
ration do  not  interfere  with  the  established  manage- 
ment. The  police  is  under  a  constable  appointed  by 
the  sheriff  of  the  county,  and  in  cases  of  emergency  the 
town  is  watched  by  a  body  of  the  inhabitants,  called  the 
town  guard  ;  the  only  prison  is  a  small  apartment  for 
temporary  confinement, in  the  town-house.  Under  the  act 
of  the  2nd  and  3rd  of  William  IV.,  the  town  is  associated 
with  the  burghs  of  Airdrie,  Hamilton,  Lanark,  and  Lin- 
lithgow, in  returning  a  member  to  parliament. 

The  parish,  which  is  situated  in  the  eastern  division 
of  the  county,  is  mostly  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Carron,  though,  from  some  alteration  in  the  course  of 
that  river,  a  few  small  portions  are  now  on  its  northern 
bank.  It  is  about  nine  miles  in  length,  and  varies  from 
two  to  five  miles  in  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of 
nearly  15,000  acres,  of  which  11,000  are  arable,  2000 
meadow  and  pasture,   1800  woodland   and  plantations, 


F  AL  K 


FALK 


and  the  remainder  waste.  The  surface  from  the  banks 
of  the  river  to  the  town  is  an  extended  plane  of  level 
carse  land,  in  the  most  luxuriant  state  of  cultivation, 
with  a  gentle  acclivity  towards  the  town,  to  the  south  of 
which  the  ground  rises  gradually  to  an  elevation  of  600 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  towards  the  east  and  west  is 
pleasingly  undulated.  The  higher  parts  command  ex- 
tensive and  beautifully-diversified  prospects  over  the 
adjacent  country,  comprising  various  towns  and  villages, 
with  numerous  elegant  mansions  and  pleasant  villas, 
encircled  by  the  heights  of  Kilsyth  and  Denny,  with 
the  Ochil  and  Saline  hills,  and,  to  the  north-west,  the 
far  distant  and  lofty  mountains  of  Benledi  and  Ben- 
voirlich.  The  river  Carron,  which  flows  in  a  winding 
course  for  about  fourteen  miles  through  the  parish,  into 
the  Forth  a  little  below  Grangemouth,  is  navigable  for 
vessels  of  200  tons  to  the  village  of  Carronshore,  beyond 
which  it  is  a  limpid  stream  abounding  with  trout,  perch, 
and  eels.  At  Castlecary,  on  the  west,  a  rivulet  dividing 
the  parish  from  Cumbernauld,  in  the  county  of  Dum- 
barton, forms  in  its  progress  a  picturesque  cascade  of 
eighty  feet,  a  little  to  the  north  of  which  it  joins  a 
stream  called  the  Bonnywater,  falling  into  the  Carron 
near  the  village  of  Bonnybridge.  The  Grange  burn 
separates  the  parish  for  nearly  two  miles  from  that  of 
Polmont  on  the  east,  and  afterwards  flows  into  the 
Carron ;  and  near  the  village  of  Camelon,  the  Light- 
water  burn,  now  a  small  streamlet,  runs  through  the 
centre  of  a  wide  channel  which  appears  to  have  been 
once  the  bed  of  a  very  considerable  river,  the  banks, 
with  their  several  windings,  being  clearly  defined.  The 
adjacent  lands  have  every  appearance  of  a  coast  indented 
with  bays,  and  marked  by  projecting  headlands  5  and 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  is  the  site  of  an  ancient  town, 
supposed  to  have  been  the  city  of  Camelon,  which,  ac- 
cording to  tradition,  was  a  sea-port :  indeed,  fragments 
of  anchors  and  boats  of  antique  form  have  at  various 
times  been  found  imbedded  in  the  soil.  There  are  three 
small  lakes  in  the  higher  portion  of  the  parish,  but 
they  are  not  distinguished  by  features  of  importance. 

The  soil  is  generally  fertile,  and  in  the  lower  lands 
luxuriantly  rich  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  very 
advanced  state,  and  has  been  brought  to  great  perfec- 
tion under  the  auspices  of  the  Agricultural  Association 
of  the  eastern  district  of  the  county,  which  was  esta- 
blished here  in  1839,  and  of  which  the  Earl  of  Dunmore 
is  patron,  and  Mr.  Forbes,  of  Callendar,  president.  The 
crops  are,  wheat,  beans,  barley,  and  oats,  with  rye-grass 
and  clover.  The  breed  of  cattle  has  been  much  im- 
proved ;  the  farm  houses  and  offices  are  substantial  and 
commodiously  arranged,  and  the  lands  are  well  inclosed. 
Lime  is  extensively  used,  and  considerable  quantities  of 
other  manure  are  supplied  from  Grangemouth ;  tile- 
draining  is  generally  practised,  and  belonging  to  the 
Earl  of  Zetland  are  three  kilns  for  the  manufacture  of 
the  tiles.  The  parish  abounds  with  coal,  particularly 
in  the  higher  districts,  where  are  several  collieries, 
producing  not  only  an  abundant  supply  for  the  vici- 
nity, but.  also  for  exportation ;  ironstone,  limestone, 
and  sandstone  are  also  plentiful,  and  veins  of  silver, 
copper,  lead,  and  cobalt  have  been  found,  but  not  in 
any  considerable  quantity.  Freestone  is  extensively 
wrought,  and  there  are  not  less  than  seven  quarries  in 
operation,  affording  employment  to  160  men;  a  whin- 
stone  quarry  has  also  been  recently  opened,  from  which 
415 


blocks  were  raised  for  the  railway.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £28,748.  The  woodland  at  Cal- 
lendar is  supposed  to  have  formed  a  portion  of  the  an- 
cient Caledonian  forest  which,  during  the  time  of  the 
Romans,  occupied  a  considerable  tract  of  this  part  of 
the  country.  The  timber  is  generally  oak,  beech,  ash, 
hazel,  and  birch  ;  and  the  plantations,  which  are  chiefly 
Scotch  fir  and  larch,  are  under  good  management,  and  in 
a  thriving  state,  adding  greatly  to  the  variety  and  beauty 
of  the  general  scenery.  Callendar  House,  the  seat  of 
William  Forbes,  Esq.,  is  a  spacious  and  ancient  man- 
sion, with  walls  of  great  thickness  and  turrets  of  antique 
character,  retaining  much  of  its  original  baronial  mag- 
nificence, though  in  some  parts  modernised  by  the  late 
proprietor.  It  is  situated  in  a  park  of  more  than  500 
acres,  embellished  with  timber  of  venerable  growth ; 
and  within  the  grounds  is  the  family  mausoleum,  a 
handsome  circular  building  of  the  Grecian-Doric  order, 
in  which  are  the  remains  of  the  late  Mr.  Forbes.  Kerse 
House,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Zetland,  is  a  very  ancient 
mansion  with  numerous  additions  of  more  modern  date, 
and  chiefly  in  the  Elizabethan  style,  which  forms  its 
prevailing  character  ;  it  is  beautifully  seated  in  a  well- 
wooded  park  forming  the  chief  ornament  of  the  eastern 
carse  lands,  and  the  pleasure-grounds  are  tastefully  laid 
out.  Bantaskine  House  is  a  handsome  modern  man- 
sion on  an  elevated  spot  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
town,  and  ornamented  with  thriving  plantations  ;  the 
grounds  command  some  extensive  prospects. 

The  parish,  which  was  formerly  much  more  exten- 
sive, including  the  parishes  of  Denny,  Slamannan,  Muir- 
avonside,  and  Polmont,  separated  from  it  at  various 
times,  is  ecclesiastically  in  the  presbytery  of  Lin- 
lithgow and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £339,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £20  per  annum ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The 
church  was  originally  founded  by  Malcolm  Canmore, 
in  1057,  and  was  a  cruciform  structure  with  a  central 
tower;  the  present  church,  rebuilt  in  1810  with  the 
exception  of  the  ancient  tower,  the  area  under  which 
now  forms  a  porch,  is  of  quadrangular  shape,  and  con- 
tains 1300  sittings.  Churches  have  been  erected  at 
Camelon  and  Grangemouth ;  and  a  place  of  worship 
once  belonging  to  the  Old-Light  Associate  Synod,  is  now 
in  connexion  with  the  Independent  bod}7.  There  are 
also  places  of  worship  for  the  Free  Church,  United 
Secession,  the  Relief,  and  Baptists ;  and  a  splendid 
Roman  Catholic  chapel,  opened  in  the  summer  of  1S43. 
Two  parochial  schools  are  maintained,  in  one  of  which 
are  taught  the  Latin,  Greek,  and  French  languages, 
and  in  the  other  only  the  English  language,  writing, 
and  arithmetic,  with  the  usual  branches  of  general  edu- 
cation ;  the  master  of  the  former  has  a  salary  of  £17, 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  fees  averaging  £35  per 
annum ;  the  master  of  the  English  school  has  a  salary 
of  £34,  with  a  dwelling-house  and  garden,  and  fees 
amounting  to  £4S.  There  are  numerous  other  schools 
in  the  parish,  together  affording  instruction  to  more 
than  1200  children  :  one  of  these,  at  Falkirk,  is  exclu- 
sively for  the  gratuitous  instruction  of  the  poor,  of 
whom  about  eighty  are  in  attendance,  and  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £40,  arising  from  an  annual  collection  at 
the  parish  church,  and  private  donations.  The  remains 
of  several  of  the  forts  erected  by  Agricola  may  still  be 
seen  in  the   direction   of  the  vallum   built    afterwards 


FALK 


FALK 


by  Antoninus.  At  Castlecary,  a  small  hamlet  at  the 
western  extremity  of  the  parish,  the  site  of  one  of  these 
forts,  a  field  of  six  acres  in  extent,  now  covered  with 
grass,  may  be  distinctly  traced  ;  a  part  of  the  vaulted 
foundations  is  remaining  underneath  the  surface,  and 
many  of  the  stones  belonging  to  the  fort  have  been  used 
in  the  inclosure  of  the  field.  The  old  tower  of  Castle- 
cary,  which  is  a  very  ancient  structure,  and  said  to  be 
Roman,  is  still  tolerably  entire,  and  is  inhabited  by  the 
Earl  of  Zetland's  forester:  at  this  hamlet,  also,  is>  a 
landing-place  for  passengers  by  the  canal  boats.  Stones 
with  various  inscriptions,  now  preserved  in  the  museum 
of  the  college  of  Glasgow,  have  been  dug  up  in  various 
parts  of  the  ditch  which  defended  the  Roman  wall,  and 
of  which  portions  are  yet  discernible  in  Callendar  Park, 
and  in  the  grounds  of  Bantaskine  House.  Vestiges  re- 
main of  a  Roman  road  that  entered  the  parish  at  Castle- 
cary,  and  passed  along  the  south  side  of  the  wall,  nearly 
to  Roughcastle,  crossed  the  wall,  and  led  to  the  fort  at 
Camelon,  and  thence  to  the  river  Carron,  where  it  en- 
tered the  parish  of  Larbert ;  and  in  excavating  the 
Forth  and  Clyde  canal,  at  no  great  distance,  a  Roman 
granary  has  been  discovered,  in  which  was  wheat  of  a 
blackish  colour.  Part  of  the  vertebra  of  a  whale  has 
been  found  imbedded  in  the  clay  at  Grangemouth,  while 
making  excavations  there  ;  also  in  the  brick-field  of  the 
Earl  of  Zetland,  about  three  miles  from  the  sea;  and  in 
excavating  the  tunnel  for  the  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow 
railway  in  1840,  the  trunk  of  a  petrified  tree,  about  five 
feet  in  circumference,  was  discovered  at  a  depth  of  129 
feet  below  the  surface. 

FALKLAND,    a   royal 
burgh  and  parish,  in  the  dis- 
trict   of   Cupar,    county    of 
W5&'  ■••■■'.■■.■V'.-B^"Fife,    10    miles    (W.)    from 

:  ■<  -        w  Cupar,    and    24     (N.   N.   E.) 

from  Edinburgh ;  contain- 
ing, with  the  villages  of 
Balmblae,  Freuchie,  and 
Newton,  2886  inhabitants, 
of  whom  1313  are  in  the 
burgh.  This  place,  anciently 
called  Kilgour,  signifying  in 
the  Gaelic  language  the.  "  Hill 
of  Goats,"  is  situated  in  a  secluded  spot  at  the  northern 
base  of  the  East  Lomond  hill,  and  was  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal strongholds  of  the  MacdufFs,  thanes  of  Fife.  In 
the  castle  here  David,  Duke  of  Rothesay,  eldest  son 
of  Robert  III.,  was  starved  to  death  by  order  of  his 
uncle,  the  Duke  of  Albany,  on  whose  attainder  in  the 
year  1424  it  was,  together  with  the  lands  attached 
to  it,  forfeited  to  the  crown,  and  from  the  forest  in 
the  vicinity  became  a  favourite  hunting-seat  of  the 
Scottish  kings.  The  present  palace  was  erected  on  the 
site  of  the  ancient  castle  by  James  V.,  who  made  it 
his  occasional  residence,  and  died  here  in  1542  ;  the 
queen  regent  was  staying  at  the  palace  when  she  was 
informed  of  the  destruction  of  the  cathedral  of  St. 
Andrew's  ;  and  with  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  it  was  also 
a  place  of  favourite  resort.  James  VI.  passed  much  of 
his  time  here  while  pursuing  the  diversion  of  the  chase; 
and  it  was  from  Falkland  that  the  Earl  of  Bothwell,  in 
1593,  decoyed  him  to  Perth,  to  obtain  possession  of 
person.     Charles   II.,   while    in    the    power  of  the 


Burgh  Seal. 


his 


Covenanters,  resided  at  the  palace  for  some  davs  :  sub- 
416 


sequently  to  his  restoration  to  the  throne,  the  building 
was  considerably  damaged  by  an  accidental  fire.  After 
the  battle  of  Sheriffmuir  in  1715,  the  palace  was  seized, 
by  Rob  P-oy  Me  Gregor,  who,  with  his  party,  kept  pos- 
session of  it  for  a  time,  and  laid  the  country  around  it 
under  contribution.  The  buildings  at  present  consist  of 
one  side,  and  portions  of  some  of  the  angles  and  other 
sides,  of  a  quadrangle  which  in  its  appearance  is  similar 
to  those  of  Holyrood  House  and  Stirling;  the  original 
ceiling  of  the  hall,  or  grand  audience-chamber,  is  still 
entire,  and  displays  some  splendid  specimens  of  elabo- 
rate carving  and  exquisite  paintings.  Notwithstanding 
the  injuries  to  which  it  has  been  exposed,  the  palace  has 
been  partially  restored  by  the  family  of  Bruce,  who  pur- 
chased the  estate,  and  it  is  now  inhabited  by  their  agent. 

The  town  consists  principally  of  one  spacious  street, 
in  which  are  the  market-place  and  town-hall,  and  from 
which  diverge  several  narrow  and  irregularly-formed 
streets  in  various  directions.  The  houses  are  generally 
of  antique  appearance,  with  thatched  roofs,  intermixed 
with  several  of  modern  erection,  built  of  white  free- 
stone, which  have  greatly  improved  the  aspect  of  the 
place  ;  and  the  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  with 
water.  The  only  important  trade  carried  on  is  hand- 
loom  weaving,  in  which  most  of  the  people  are  employed 
at  their  own  houses.  The  post-office  has  a  good  deli- 
very ;  the  market  is  well  supplied  with  provisions  of 
every  kind  ;  and  fairs,  chiefly  for  cattle  and  horses,  are 
held  on  the  second  Thursday  in  January,  the  last  in 
February  and  April,  the  third  in  June,  the  first  after  the 
12th  of  August,  the  fourth  in  September,  and  on  the 
Friday  before  the  Edinburgh  Hallow  fair  in  Novem- 
ber. The  town  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh  by  char- 
ter of  James  II.,  granted  in  1458,  and  confirmed  by 
James  VI.  in  1595;  the  government  is  vested  in  three 
bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  a  town  council  of  fifteen  per- 
sons, chosen  agreeably  with  the  regulations  of  the 
Municipal  Reform  act.  The  magistrates  exercise  civil 
and  criminal  jurisdiction  over  the  whole  extent  of  the 
royalty  ;  but  very  few  cases  are  brought  under  their 
decision,  except  debts  to  a  trifling  amount,  and  petty 
offences  against  the  police.  The  town-hall,  situated  in 
the  market-place,  is  a  neat  building  containing  the 
requisite  courts  and  an  assembly-room. 

The  parish  is  about  four  miles  in  length,  and  nearly 
of  equal  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  10,000  acres,  of 
which  about  300  are  woodland  and  plantations,  and 
the  remainder  arable,  meadow,  and  pasture.  The  sur- 
face is  partly  flat,  including  an  extensive  tract  formerly 
the  Park  of  Falkland,  and  partly  diversified  with  hills,  of 
which  the  highest  is  the  East  Lomond,  fully  1200  feet 
in  height,  and  fertile  to  the  very  summit.  The  principal 
river  is  the  Eden,  which  flows  through  the  parish  ;  and 
numerous  springs  of  excellent  water  issue  from  the  hills  : 
the  lake  to  the  east  of  the  palace,  in  which  were  several 
inlets,  has  been  drained,  and  the  land  brought  into  cul- 
tivation. The  soil  is  various,  partly  a  light  brown  loam, 
partly  sand  and  gravel  covered  with  heath  and  furze, 
and  partly  a  deep  black  moss  :  the  whole  length  from 
east  to  west  between  the  plain  and  the  Lomond  hill 
is  a  rich  loam,  producing  abundant  crops.  The  system 
of  husbandry  has  been  greatly  improved  under  the 
auspices  of  Mr.  Bruce  and  other  landed  proprietors;  a 
large  tract  of  common  has  been  convei-ted  into  fine 
arable    fields,  and   most    of  the  other  waste  has  been 


F  A  It  N 


F  A  It  R 


reclaimed  and  brought  into  profitable  cultivation. 
Draining  and  inclosing  are  extensively  practised,  and 
the  various  farms  under  beneficial  leases  have  been 
carried  to  the  highest  state  of  productiveness.  The 
Lomond  hill  abounds  with  limestone,  and  lead-ore 
has  been  discovered  recently  ;  coal,  marl,  and  fullers' 
earth  are  also  found  in  various  parts.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £S606.  Falkland  House, 
the  seat  of  the  family  of  Bruce,  is  an  elegant  mansion 
beautifully  situated,  and  embellished  with  thriving  plan- 
tations. The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod  of 
Fife  :  the  minister's  stipend  is  £252.  S.,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £18  per  annum ;  patrons,  the 
family  of  Bruce.  The  church,  erected  in  1620,  and 
repaired  in  1770,  is  a  plain  structure  containing  6S~ 
sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church,  the  United  Secession,  and  Baptists 
of  Free  Communion.  The  parochial  school  is  well 
attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  allow- 
ance for  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about 
£50.  On  the  Lomond  hill  are  vestiges  of  an  ancient  camp 
supposed  to  be  of  Roman  origin.  The  town  gives  the 
title  of  Viscount  to  the  Cary  family,  a  dignity  created 
in  the  person  of  Sir  Henry  Cary,  K.  B.,  who  was  ap- 
pointed lord  lieutenant  of  Ireland  in  162*2,  and  on 
his  death  in  1633  was  succeeded  in  the  title  by  his  son, 
Lucius,  one  of  the  most  learned  and  accomplished  men 
of  his  age,  slain  at  the  battle  of  Newbury  in  1643. 

FANKERTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Denny, 
county  of  Stirling  ;  containing  68  inhabitants.  It  lies 
in  the  north  part  of  the  parish,  on  the  road  from  Denny 
to  Fintry,  the  Carron  water  running  here  in  nearly  a 
parallel  direction.  A  part  of  the  population  is  employed 
in  the  Herbertshire  mill,  a  considerable  paper  manufac- 
tory, on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Carron,  in  the  parish 
of  Dunipace. 

FANS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Earlstoun,  county 
of  Berwick,  3  miles  (E.  N.  E.)  from  Earlstoun  ;  contain- 
ing 153  inhabitants.  The  village  lies  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  parish,  and  a  short  distance  from  the  river 
Eden.  A  school  is  supported  chiefly  by  George  Baillie, 
Esq.,  of  Mellerstain,  by  whom  the  teacher  is  also  allowed 
a  dwelling. 

FARAY,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Walls,  county  of 
Orkney.  It  is  of  small  extent,  lying  to  the  east  of  the 
island  of  Hoy,  of  which  the  southern  portion,  with  this 
isle,  and  the  isles  of  Flota,  Cava,  and  Graemsay,  consti- 
tutes the  parish.     There  is  some  good  pasturage  for  sheep. 

FARNELL,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar, 
4  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Brechin  ;  containing  620  inhabit- 
ants. This  place  derives  its  name,  of  Gaelic  origin, 
from  its  having  been  anciently  the  resort  of  swans. 
The  parish  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  two  in 
breadth ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  South 
Esk,  and  comprises  5540  acres,  of  which  3330  are  ara- 
ble, 560  woods  and  plantations,  600  undivided  common, 
and  the  remainder  forest  land,  called  Monteithmont 
muir.  The  surface,  though  generally  flat,  rises  towards 
the  north,  and  on  the  south  side  is  marked  by  a  ridge 
of  hills  of  no  great  elevation,  extending  into  the  parishes 
of  Marytown  and  Craig.  The  river,  which  has  its 
source  in  the  Grampian  hills,  separates  the  parish  from 
the  town  of  Brechin,  and  falls  into  a  small  bay  of  the 
sea,  on  the  west  of  Montrose  ;  it  abounds  with  salmon 
Vol.  I. — 417 


and  small  trout,  and  in  that  part  of  its  course  which 
skirts  the  parish  it  runs  between  banks  of  great  beauty, 
richly  wooded,  and  along  which  a  road  has  been  con- 
structed, commanding  several  highly-picturesque  pros- 
pects. A  small  rivulet  that  flows  near  the  church, 
occasionally,  after  rain  or  the  melting  of  the  snow-, 
swells  into  a  torrent,  bursting  its  banks,  and  inundating 
the  adjacent  meadows  ;  its  channel  has,  however,  been 
deepened,  and  other  means  adopted  to  confine  it  within 
its  due  limits.  The  soil  in  the  higher  lands  is  of  rather 
inferior  quality,  but  in  the  lower  a  rich  loam  intermixed 
with  clay,  of  great  fertility,  and  well  adapted  for  the 
growth  of  wheat.  The  crops  are,  wheat,  oats,  barley, 
peas,  beans,  turnips,  and  potatoes  ;  the  system  of  agri- 
culture is  in  a  very  advanced  state;  the  lands  are 
drained  and  inclosed,  the  farm-houses  and  offices  of 
very  superior  character,  and  all  the  more  recent  im- 
provements in  husbandry  are  practised.  There  are  two 
mills  for  meal,  and  two  saw-mills,  one  of  which  latter 
is  occasionally  used  for  making  bone-dust,  as  manure 
for  turnip  land.  The  ordinary  kinds  of  live  stock  are 
reared  with  great  attention,  and  the  farmers  of  the 
parish  have  obtained  many  of  the  prizes  awarded  by 
the  Forfarshire  Agricultural  Association.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5246. 

The  plantations  are  chiefly  larch  and  Scotch  fir,  occa- 
sionally intermixed  with  various  kinds  of  forest-trees, 
and  are  judiciously  managed  and  in  a  flourishing  condi- 
tion. Kinnaird  Castle,  the  seat  of  Sir  James  Carnegie, 
Bart.,  is  a  spacious  and  handsome  mansion  of  quadran- 
gular form,  with  a  square  tower  at  each  of  the  angles, 
and  has  an  imposing  grandeur  of  effect ;  the  demesne  is 
tastefully  laid  out  and  richly  wooded,  and  the  lawn  in 
front  of  the  house  is  embellished  with  some  very  stately 
timber.  Every  facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by 
good  roads  kept  in  repair  by  statute  labour ;  and  a 
turnpike-road  has  recently  been  constructed  from  For- 
far to  Montrose,  which  passes  for  two  miles  through 
the  parish.  Farnell  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Brechin  and 
synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns,  and  in  the  patronage  of 
the  Crown;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £250.  10.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The 
church  is  a  handsome  edifice  in  the  early  English  style 
of  architecture,  with  a  finely-vaulted  roof,  and  is  adapted 
for  a  congregation  of  about  330  persons.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £30,  with  about  £20  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden. 
The  poor  have  the  interest  of  bequests  to  the  amount 
of  £500,  producing  £25  a  year.  Near  the  church,  and 
within  the  glen  from  which  the  parish  takes  its  name, 
are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Farnell,  the 
baronial  seat  of  the  Ogilvys,  of  Airlie  ;  it  is  still  in  good 
repair,  and  part  of  it  is  appropriated,  rent  free,  as  dwell- 
ings for  infirm  and  aged  persons. 

FARR,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Sutherland,  19 
miles  (\V.  by  S.)  from  Thurso ;  containing,  with  the 
late  quoad  sacra  district  of' Strathy,  2217  inhabitants. 
The  name  of  Farr,  or  Far,  as  it  is  sometimes  written, 
may  be  derived  from  the  Gaelic  word  Faire,  implying  a 
"watch"  or  "  sentinel,"  and  doubtless  arose  in  reference 
to  the  Dun,  or  circular  tower,  standing  on  the  coast, 
about  half  a  mile  north  of  the  parish  church,  and  which 
formed  the  first  and  most  important  of  a  regular  chain 
of  such  ancient  buildings  extendingfor  more  than  twenty- 
four  miles  into  the  interior.     These  towers  are  thought 

3  H 


FARE 


FAIR 


to  have  been  erected  by  a  race  called  in  Gaelic  Cruinnich, 
from  a  word  signifying  "  circular,"  or  one  denoting  "  a 
gathering  together."  There  are  also  numerous  tumuli 
in  the  neighbourhood,  which  are  generally  considered  to 
have  been  the  burying-places  of  invaders,  especially 
Danes,  who  fell  in  the  fierce  and  bloody  conflicts  so 
frequent  with  the  native  inhabitants ;  the  sepulchres  of 
the  chieftains  are  usually  at  a  little  distance  from  the 
ordinary  burying-places,  and  marked  out  by  some  signal 
and  more  permanent  memorial.  In  the  churchyard  of 
Farr,  for  example,  is  a  large  erect  stone,  curiously  sculp- 
tured with  pagan  devices,  and  traditionally  reported  to 
note  the  burial-place  of  some  Dane  of  distinction,  by 
many  supposed  to  be  a  prince  ;  it  is  two  feet  in  breadth, 
six  feet  above  the  ground,  and  as  many  beneath.-  Several 
of  the  tumuli  are  said  to  be  the  depositaries  of  those 
who  fell  in  the  battle  between  Reginald,  King  of  the 
Isles,  and  Harold,  Earl  of  Orkney  and  Caithness.  In 
times  less  remote,  the  ancient  clan  of  the  Mackays 
made  a  very  considerable  figure  here,  their  principal  re- 
sidence during  the  15th,  16th,  and  17th  centuries  being 
Strathnaver,  of  which  Farr  formed  a  part.  Subse- 
quently, upon  the  marriage- alliance  between  the  earls 
of  Sutherland  and  the  Gordons,  some  of  the  latter  came 
to  reside  in  the  district ;  and  about  one  hundred  years 
ago  there  were  few  persons  in  the  parish  but  Mackays 
and  Gordons,  which  names,  indeed,  are  still  the  most 
numerous  among  the  popidation.  The  ancient  castle, 
probably  built  by  the  Norwegians,  is  supposed  to  have 
been  the  seat  of  the  Mackays  of  Farr  before  they  were 
created  barons  under  the  title  of  Lords  Reay. 

The  parish  lies  in  the  northern  extremity  of  Scot- 
land, and  is  about  forty  miles  long,  varying  in  breadth 
from  eight  to  twenty  miles,  and  containing  300,000 
acres ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Northern 
Ocean.  The  general  aspect  of  the  parish  is  mountainous, 
the  surface  having  in  most  parts  a  very  thin  shallow 
soil,  and  in  others  exhibiting  only  bare  rock.  The 
principal  mountain  is  Bein  Chlibrig,  of  conical  shape, 
and  the  loftiest  in  Sutherland,  of  which  the  southern 
side  is  partially  covered  with  heath  and  grass,  but  the 
northern  is  bare  and  rocky ;  it  is  situated  in  the  south- 
western part  of  the  parish,  and  attains  to  3200  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  attracting  great  numbers  of 
ptarmigan,  who  locate  themselves  about  the  summit. 
The  other  hills,  nearer  the  sea-coast,  reach  different  de- 
grees of  elevation,  but  are  all  inferior  in  height  to  the 
Chlibrig.  There  are  several  picturesque  valleys,  also 
forming  striking  features  in  the  scenery  ;  the  chief  are 
those  called  Strathnaver  and  Strathrathy,  which  both 
in  extent  and  beauty  far  exceed  all  the  rest.  The 
former  extends  from  the  coast  in  a  south-west  direction 
for  about  twenty-eight  miles,  including  the  ground 
along  the  river  Naver,  the  loch  of  Naver,  and  the  water 
of  Mudale,  beyond  the  loch  ;  and  is  considered,  for  the 
richness  of  its  pasture  and  the  variety  of  its  scenery, 
the  most  interesting  Highland  vale  in  the  county. 
Strathrathy  runs  immediately  south  from  the  sea  for 
twelve  miles,  and  lies  about  ten  miles  north-east  of 
Strathnaver,  between  which  and  this  valley  are  situated 
the  less  commanding  but  still  pleasing  straths  of  Kirk- 
tomie,  Armidale,  Swordly,  and  Clachan,  in  the  last  of 
which  stand  the  church  and  manse.  The  parish  com- 
prises about  thirteen  miles  of  sea-coast,  reaching  from 
Naver  bay  in  the  west  to  Baligil  burn  in  the  east ;  it  is 
418 


for  the  most  part  abrupt  and  precipitous,  and  dangerous 
to  mariners,  but  contains  the  bays  of  Naver,  Farr, 
Kirktomie,  Armidale,  and  Strathy,  where  boats  may 
safely  land  in  moderate  weather.  The  headlands  are, 
Airdniskicb,  Aird  of  Farr,  Aird  of  Kirktomie,  and 
Strathy  head,  from  the  last  of  which  the  lights  of  Cape 
Wrath  and  the  promontory  of  Dunnet  Head  are  seen  on 
a  clear  day.  There  are,  besides,  numerous  caves, 
natural  arches,  and  fissures,  along  the  coast,  as  well  as 
in  the  interior,  some  of  which  are  visited  with  consi- 
derable interest  by  the  curious ;  the  chief  caves  by  the 
sea-side  are  those  in  the  Aird  of  Kirktomie  and  Strathy- 
point,  and  at  Farr  is  a  very  fine  natural  arch. 

There  are  many  springs  of  excellent  water  in  the 
parish,  and  several  fresh-water  lakes  of  considerable 
extent  and  beauty,  the  largest  of  which  are,  Loch  Naver, 
Loch  Coir-na-fearn,  and  Loch  Strathy.  The  first  of 
these,  seven  miles  long,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  broad, 
and  in  some  parts  thirty  fathoms  deep,  is  by  far  the 
most  striking  and  important ;  its  shore  at  different 
parts  exhibits  all  the  varieties  of  rock,  pebbles,  and 
sand.  The  rivers  are  the  Naver,  Borgie,  and  Strathy, 
the  first  of  which,  the  largest  in  the  county,  issuing 
from  the  loch  of  the  same  name,  is  joined  near  Ach- 
ness  by  a  stream  rising  in  Loch  Coir-na-fearn,  and, 
after  receiving  many  other  waters  in  its  meandering, 
and  sometimes  rapid  and  sometimes  apparently  quies- 
cent, course  through  the  strath,  falls,  about  eighteen 
miles  from  its  source,  into  the  sea.  The  river  Strathy 
flows  from  Loch  Strathy,  and,  when  augmented  by  the 
swellings  of  its  tributaries  from  the  several  hills  and 
marshes,  becomes  a  powerful  stream.  The  Borgie, 
which  issues  from  Loch  Loyal,  in  the  parish  of  Tongue, 
forms  a  boundary  of  this  parish,  and  joins  the  ocean 
within  a  mile  of  the  Naver,  at  Torrisdale  ;  there  are 
salmon -fishings  in  it,  which  for  a  long  time  .past  have 
belonged  to  the  Sutherland  family.  Indeed,  all  the 
larger  lakes  and  rivers  contain  a  plentiful  supply  of 
salmon  ;  and  in  the  smaller,  trout  are  taken  in  consider- 
able quantities. 

The  soil  differs  greatly  ;  a  very  large  portion  of  it  in 
the  interior,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lochs,  ex- 
cept Loch  Naver,  is  a  deep  moss ;  while  that  on  the 
borders  of  the  rivers  Strathy  and  Naver  consists  of 
sand,  gravel,  and  moss.  Along  the  coast  it  is  found  to 
be  light  and  sandy,  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
bays,  in  addition  to  this,  to  contain  some  alluvial  de- 
posits. About  800  acres  in  various  parts  are  under 
wood,  and  about  700  on  the  coast  are  cultivated  by 
small  tenants  :  with  these  deductions  the  whole  land  is 
laid  out  in  extensive  sheep-walks.  The  herbage  is  of 
many  kinds,  varying  principally  according  to  the  eleva- 
tion of  the  land.  The  common  red  heather,  deer-hair, 
and  the  long  tough  grass  called  flying-bent  are  com- 
monly found  on  the  mountains,  hills,  and  moors ;  and 
in  the  softer  marshes  is  a  profusion  of  the  species  known 
by  the  name  of  cotton-grass.  The  trees  growing  here 
are  of  much  variety,  and,  with  some  trifling  exceptions, 
are  indigenous  ;  the  alder  attains  a  considerable  size 
on  the  grounds  watered  by  the  Naver,  where,  also,  the 
birch  is  most  flourishing  and  abundant.  About  22,000 
sheep  of  the  Cheviot  breed  are  annually  grazed  in  the 
parish.  The  land  occupied  by  the  small  tenants  is 
generally  uneven  in  the  surface,  and  capable  of  great 
improvement   by   draining,  inclosing,    and   ploughing; 


FARR 


F  E  A  It 


the  crops  consist  of  oats,  bear,  and  potatoes.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £808.  The  rocks 
and  stone  in  the  district,  which  are  abundant  in  every 
direction,  are  chiefly  coarse  granite,  gneiss,  and  sand- 
stone. On  the  coast  near  Kirktomie  is  a  considerable 
quantity  of  red  sandstone,  mixed  with  conglomerate, 
and  in  the  vicinity  of  Strathy  is  some  superior  limestone, 
from  which  lime  is  obtained  ;  also  a  large  quarry  of 
white  sandstone,  easily  convertible  to  purposes  of  utility 
from  the  readiness  with  which  it  is  dressed  by  the 
chisel.  At  Strathy  the  strata  of  freestone  and  lime- 
stone are  horizontal ;  in  the  rest  of  the  parish  the 
strata  of  rock  are  nearly  vertical,  or  form  an  angle  of 
from  five  to  thirty  degrees  with  the  perpendicular.  Cat- 
tle trysts  are  held  at  Aultnaharrow  on  the  14th  Sep- 
tember, and  at  Bettyhill  on  the  first  Wednesday  in 
November.  Salmon  are  taken  in  considerable  quanti- 
ties at  three  stations  on  the  coast,  and  about  eighteen 
boats  are  engaged  in  the  herring-fishery  during  the 
season,  from  May  till  September ;  the  salmon  are  sold 
to  a  company  who  have  a  curing  establishment  here. 
Turbot,  cod,  ling,  haddock,  and  other  fish  are  also 
obtained.  There  is  a  post-office  connected  with  the 
market-town  of  Thurso,  thirty-two  miles  distant ;  and 
the  inhabitants  have  some  facility  of  communication  by 
means  of  a  mail-diligence  carrying  four  passengers, 
which  runs  to  and  fro,  three  times  a  week,  between 
Thurso  and  the  neighbouring  parish  of  Tongue,  be- 
tween which  places  there  is  also  a  weekly  carrier.  The 
road  from  Bonar-Bridge  to  Tongue  passes  through  the 
heights,  and  about  sixteen  miles  of  the  line  from  Tongue 
to  Thurso  near  the  coast :  on  the  river  Naver  is  a 
chain-boat,  and  over  the  different  parish  roads  are  two 
bridges  of  three  arches  each,  and  twelve  of  one  arch. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  pres- 
bytery of  Tongue  and  synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caith- 
ness ;  patron,  the  Duke  of  Sutherland  :  the  stipend  of 
the  minister  is  £167,  with  a  good  manse,  built  in  1818, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £8  per  annum.  The  church, 
situated  near  the  coast,  is  convenient  for  the  population, 
the  greater  portion  of  whom  reside  in  its  vicinity,  the 
remoter  district  being  peopled  only  by  an  inconsiderable 
number  of  shepherds  in  the  employ  of  the  great  sheep- 
farmers.  It  was  erected  in  1774,  and  is  a  plain  build- 
ing, with  substantial  walls,  and  seats  about  750  persons. 
There  is  a  government  church  at  Strathy,  ten  miles  east 
from  the  parish  church,  built  in  1826,  and  accommo- 
dating about  350  persons.  The  members  of  the  Free 
Church  have  also  a  place  of  worship.  There  is  a  paro- 
chial school,  in  ■which  instruction  may  be  obtained  in 
the  classics,  mathematics,  and  all  the  ordinary  branches 
of  education  ;  the  master  has  the  maximum  salary,  with 
about  £5  fees,  a  house,  and  £3  in  lieu  of  a  garden. 
Three  other  schools  are  supported  respectively  at  Stra- 
thy, Armidale,  and  Clarkhill,  in  all  which  the  classics, 
mathematics,  and  the  usual  branches  are  taught,  with 
the  exception  of  the  school  at  Clarkhill,  which  is  under 
a  female  teacher.  The  master  of  the  school  at  Strathy, 
a  parliamentary  one,  has  a  salary  of  £25,  with  about  £4 
in  lieu  of  fees.  The  Committee  of  the  General  Assembly 
give  a  salary  of  similar  amount  to  the  teacher  at  Armi- 
dale, the  fees  being  £3  ;  and  the  mistress  of  Clarkhill 
receives  £5  from  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian 
Knowledge,  and  the  fees.  The  masters  have  excellent 
accommodations,  including  each  a  house  and  garden, 
419 


and  a  croft  of  land  from  the  heritor.  The  Duke  of 
Sutherland  derives  his  title  of  Baron  Strathnaver  from 
the  vale  in  this  parish  :  the  dignity  was  conferred  upon 
his  Grace's  ancestor  as  early,  it  is  supposed,  as  the 
beginning  of  the  13th  century. 

FASKINE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Old  Monk- 
land,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  1|  mile 
(S.)  from  Airdrie ;  containing  408  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  in  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish,  and  is 
one  of  the  numerous  villages  that  owe  their  rise  to  the 
minerals  or  manufactures  of  the  district.  Faskine  is 
the  seat  of  an  extensive  colliery,  and  it  was  here  that 
the  coal  called  the  Splint,  or  Lady  Anne  coal,  was  first 
found,  the  seam  deriving  its  name  from  Lady  Anne  Stir- 
ling, the  wife  of  A.  Stirling,  Esq.  In  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  village  are  four  ironstone  mines. 

FEARN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar,  8  miles 
(W.)  from  Brechin ;  containing  404  inhabitants.  The 
word  Fearn,  signifying  in  the  Gaelic  language  "an  alder 
tree,"  appears  to  have  been  used  in  the  present  instance 
on  account  of  the  numbers  of  that  tree  growing  in  the 
parish  or  neighbourhood.  The  place  is  not  remarkable 
for  any  striking  historical  events  ;  but  the  existence  of 
some  of  those  curious  stone  circles  of  large  dimensions 
which  are  also  found  in  other  parts,  proves  the  very 
ancient  occupation  of  the  soil  by  inhabitants  concerning 
the  origin  or  character  of  whom  we  are  left  in  doubt. 
Upon  the  banks  of  the  river  Noran  are  the  ruins  of 
the  castle  of  Vane,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  cele- 
brated Cardinal  Beaton,  who  is  said  to  have  appro- 
priated it  to  a  Lady  Vane,  a  name  originally  Bane,  or 
Bain,  denoting  "fair."  The  lands  formerly  belonged  to 
the  Earl  of  Crawford ;  and  tradition  states  that  John 
Collessie,  knight  of  Balnamoon,  with  a  party  of  horse- 
men, before  the  commencement  of  the  battle  of  Brechin 
in  1452,  asked  of  him,  as  a  reward  for  his  services,  the 
possession  of  the  barony  of  Fearn  ;  and  that,  upon  re- 
fusal, the  earl  and  his  followers  were  defeated  through 
Collessie's  defection  from  his  cause. 

The  parish  is  nearly  seven  miles  long,  and  is  three 
broad;  about  3100  acres  are  under  culture,  330  are 
plantations,  and  the  remainder  is  heath  and  sheep- 
walks.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parish  of 
Lethnot  and  Navar,  on  the  south  and  west  by  that  of 
Tannadice,  and  on  the  east  by  Menmuir  and  Careston. 
The  surface  consists  of  two  parallel  ridges,  rising  one 
above  the  other,  between  the  valley  of  Strathmore  and 
the  Grampian  hills,  and  inclosing  two  sweeps  of  low 
ground,  the  southern  range  of  which  is  suited  to  tillage, 
and  the  northern  to  pasturage.  The  rivers  are,  the 
Cruik,  having  its  source  at  the  foot  of  the  Grampians, 
and  the  Noran,  wateriug  the  lower  valley,  and  marking 
in  its  course  the  south-west  boundary  of  the  parish. 
The  soil  of  the  cultivated  grounds  is  a  fine  rich  loam, 
and  the  land  is  distributed  into  sixteen  farms,  varying 
in  size  from  fifty  to  300  acres,  and  each  comprising  cer- 
tain portions  of  moor  or  pasture ;  a  large  part  of  the 
district  called  the  barony  of  Fearn  is  waste,  covered 
with  whins  and  broom.  Wheat,  bark}',  and  oats  are 
the  grain  usually  sown.  The  recent  introduction  of 
bone-dust  manure  has  been  of  great  service  to  hus- 
bandry, and  much  benefit  has  resulted  from  the  many 
improvements  made  within  the  last  forty  years  in  the 
farm-houses.  The  live  stock  reared  for  the  market 
consists  of  black-cattle  and  sheep,  to  which  much  atten- 

3  H2 


FEAR 


F  EN  VV 


tion  is  paid,  the  open  pastures  and  the  plentiful  herbage 
provided  by  the  extensive  cultivation  of  turnips  afford- 
ing great  facilities.  The  rocky  strata  differ  considerably 
in  different  parts.  The  southern  declivity  of  the  lower 
ridge  is  sandstone  ;  and  upwards,  towards  the  north,  to 
the  middle  of  the  slope  of  the  other  ridge,  is  a  large 
sweep  of  argillaceous  rock,  of  an  iron  cast,  called  halm 
by  the  natives  of  the  district.  Above  this,  the  sand- 
stone again  appears  ;  and  not  far  distant,  the  ordinary 
greywacke  is  to  be  seen.  The  estates  of  Auchnacree, 
Deuchar,  and  Noranside  have  convenient  and  substan- 
tial mansions,  surrounded  by  good  gardens  and  plan- 
tations ;  and  the  house  of  the  last  of  them,  encompassed 
with  beautiful  scenery,  commands  a  view  over  the  vale 
of  Strathmore  to  the  distance  of  100  miles.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £42*0.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Brechin 
and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns.  The  minister  has  a 
salary  of  £155,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  10  acres, 
valued  at  £19  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The 
church,  built  in  1S06,  stands  on  the  summit  of  a  natural 
mound,  in  the  middle  of  a  dene,  and  is  conveniently 
situated  for  the  population.  There  is  a  parochial  school, 
the  master  of  which  has  a  salary  of  £28.  12.  6.,  with  a 
house  and  garden,  and  £13.  10.  fees. 

FEARN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, 5  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Tain  ;  containing,  with  the 
villages  of  Balintore  and  Hiltown,  1914  inhabitants. 
The  Gaelic  name  of  this  parish,  Fearnn,  signifies  "  the 
alder-tree,"  and  was  applied  in  consequence  of  the  great 
number  of  alders  growing  at  Mid-Fearn,  in  the  parish 
of  Edderton,  in  the  neighbourhood.  An  abbey  was 
founded  there  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  II.,  by  Far- 
quhar,  first  earl  of  Ross  ;  but  a  bull  was  afterwards 
obtained  from  the  pope  for  removing  the  establishment 
to  a  fertile  plain  in  this  parish,  on  account  of  the  com- 
parative sterility  of  the  lands  in  Edderton.  The  abbey 
was  not  only  a  place  of  worship  before  the  Reformation, 
but  was  used  as  such  until  October,  1742,  when  sud- 
denly, during  the  performance  of  service,  the  roof  fell 
in,  and  thirty-six  persons  were  instantly  killed,  eight 
others  dying  soon  afterwards.  The  parish,  which  is 
about  two  miles  wide,  and  several  miles  in  length, 
stretches  along  the  western  shore  of  the  Moray  Frith, 
and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parish  of  Tain,  on 
the  south  by  that  of  Nigg,  and  on  the  west  by  Logie 
Easter.  The  surface  is  nearly  level,  with  the  exception 
of  a  few  eminences ;  about  three-fourths  are  arable,  and 
the  rest  partly  green,  and  partly  covered  with  heath. 
The  coast  for  about  a  mile  is  flat  and  sandy,  especially 
where  the  fishing  village  of  Balintore  lies ;  but  Hiltown, 
another  fishing  station,  half  a  mile  from  the  former,  is 
skirted  by  a  coast  altogether  bold  and  rocky.  The  loch 
of  Eye,  the  only  water  of  consequence,  is  about  two 
miles  long,  and  half  a  mile  broad. 

The  soil  is  a  deep  loam  in  the  centre  of  the  parish  ; 
the  loans  of  Fearn  to  the  south,  and  the  lands  of  Allan 
to  the  west,  are  a  deep  clay ;  and  in  the  other  parts 
the  soil  is  gravelly  or  sandy.  The  greater  portion  is 
cultivated,  or  occasionally  in  tillage;  15S  acres  are 
under  wood,  and  the  remainder  is  waste  or  pasture. 
Many  improvements  have  taken  place  in  agriculture 
within  the  last  thirty  years,  by  trenching,  draining, 
and  levelling ;  green  crops  are  extensively  raised,  and 
some  of  the  best  wheat  in  Scotland  is  grown  here.  The 
420 


produce  is  sent  to  the  Leith  and  London  markets  ;  and 
a  monthly  market  for  swine  is  held  on  the  Hill  of  Fearn. 
Fisheries  of  grey  fish  and  herring  are  carried  on  to  a 
considerable  extent  by  the  villagers  residing  on  the  sea- 
shore. The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5229. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery 
of  Tain  and  synod  of  Ross  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The 
stipend  of  the  minister  is  £206,  with  a  good  manse,  and 
a  glebe  of  five  acres,  worth  about  £12.  10.  per  annum. 
The  church  is  of  early  English  architecture.  There  is  a 
parochial  school,  the  master  of  which  has  a  salary  of 
£36,  including  £2  for  garden,  with  a  house,  and  about 
£10  fees.  At  Balintore  is  also  a  school,  in  which  Gaelic 
is  taught,  and  of  which  the  teachers  are  supported  by 
the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge.  There 
are  several  Druidical  temples  in  the  parish,  but  the  chief 
antiquities  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  abbey,  the  castle  of 
Lochlin,  situated  on  the  eastern  head  of  the  lake  of  the 
same  name,  and  the  vestiges  of  the  very  ancient  castle 
of  Cadboll.  Here  is  buried  Sir  John  Lockhart  Ross,  of 
Balnagown,  vice-admiral  of  the  Blue,  a  distinguished 
naval  hero,  who  died  in  1*90. 

FENTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dirleton, 
county  of  Haddington,  4  miles  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from 
North  Berwick  ;  containing  201  inhabitants.  This  place 
consists  of  East  and  West  Fentou,  and  lies  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  parish,  a  short  distance  from  the 
Peffer  burn,  its  boundary  in  that  direction.  A  part  of 
the  lands  in  this  neighbourhood  formerly  belonged  to 
the  powerful  family  of  De  Vallibus,  or  De  Vaux.  In 
1606,  James  VI.,  having  given  the  castle  of  Dirleton  to 
Sir  Thomas  Erskine,  captain  of  the  English  guard,  for 
his  valour  in  preserving  him  from  the  traitorous  attempt 
of  Gowrie,  created  him  Baron  Dirleton,  and  afterwards 
Viscount  Fenton,  this  being  the  first  dignity  of  viscount 
created  in  Scotland  :  in  1619,  he  was  raised  to  the  title 
of  Earl  of  Kellie.  Some  years  since,  upwards  of  thirty 
pentagonal  basaltic  pillars  were  laid  bare  on  the  farm 
of  West  Fenton. 

FENWICK,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cunning- 
hame,  county  of  Ayr  ;  including  the  villages  of  Kirk- 
town  and  Upper  Fenwick,  and  containing  2018  inha- 
bitants, of  whom  355  are  in  Upper  Fenwick,  4  miles 
(N.  N.  E.)  from  Kilmarnock.  This  place  in  ancient 
times  formed  part  of  the  parish  of  Kilmarnock,  from 
which  it  was  separated  in  the  year  1642,  and  called  New 
Kilmarnock,  its  present  appellation  having  been  subse- 
quently derived  from  Fenwick  hill,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
church.  The  parish  is  nine  miles  in  length,  and  up- 
wards of  six  in  breadth,  and  is  in  figure  nearly  an 
oblong,  the  surface  rising  gradually  from  the  south  to 
the  north,  and  reaching  an  elevation  of  about  700  feet 
near  the  part  where  it  joins  the  Mearns  moor.  The 
climate  is  moist,  and  rain  is  very  frequent,  and  the 
soil  to  a  great  extent  unproductive,  several  large  tracts 
consisting  of  deep  moss,  which,  at  many  seasons  in 
the  year,  are  impassable  without  risk  of  life.  The 
lower  division  contains  most  of  the  population,  and  the 
land  here  produces  good  average  crops ;  the  higher 
grounds,  bordering  on  Renfrewshire,  are  chiefly  pas- 
toral, and  of  excellent  quality,  and  the  stock  grazed 
upon  them  is  of  a  good  breed,  and  in  superior  condi- 
tion. The  process  of  draining  has  been  for  some  time 
attended  to,  and  much  land  once  entirely  useless  is  now 
under  tillage,  and  affords  good  returns.     Limestone  is 


FERG 


F  E  11  G 


abundant,  and  is  quarried  in  several  places  ;  coal  has 
recently  been  discovered  in  much  larger  quantities  than 
those  formerly  obtained,  and  iron  has  also  been  found 
in  the  same  locality  in  considerable  abundance,  one  bed 
measuring  five  feet  in  thickness.  The  parish  contains 
several  small  hamlets  ;  the  inhabitants  generally  dis- 
pose of  their  produce  at  the  markets  of  Glasgow  and 
Kilmarnock  :  coal  is  procured  from  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  latter  place,  and  peat  is  obtained  plentifully  from 
the  mosses  in  the  district.  The  public  road  from 
Glasgow  to  Kilmarnock  and  Ayr  passes  through  the 
parish.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  Fenwick  is  £9366. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  presbytery  of 
Irvine  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  the  patronage 
vested  in  the  Earl  of  Glasgow  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£123,  of  which  a  part  is  received  from  the  exchequer, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  eight  acres,  valued  at 
£24  per  annum.  The  church,  seated  on  the  right  bank 
of  one  of  the  two  streams  which  intersect  the  parish, 
is  a  plain  cruciform  structure,  built  in  1643,  and  con- 
taining between  700  and  800  sittings,  all  free.  There 
is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  United  Seces- 
sion. The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the 
ordinary  branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £28, 
with  a  good  house,  built  in  1S05,  a  rood  of  garden,  and 
£20  fees.  There  is  a  second  school,  with  an  endow- 
ment of  £10  per  annum;  and  the  parish  contains  a 
subscription  library.  The  Earl  of  Glasgow  takes  the 
title  of  Baron  Boyle,  of  Fenwick,  from  this  place. 

FERGUS,  ST.,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Banff, 
5  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Peterhead  ;  containing  1391 
inhabitants.  This  parish,  which  is  locally  situated  in 
Aberdeenshire,  though  annexed  to  Banffshire,  was  for- 
merly called  Langley ;  it  took  its  present  name,  in 
honour  of  its  patron  saint,  in  the  year  1616,  when  the 
church  was  removed  from  its  ancient  site,  the  downs 
called  the  Links  of  St.  Fergus,  where  it  had  been  erected 
as  a  vicarage  by  the  abbot  of  Aberbrothock.  The  lands 
formed  part  of  the  great  earldom  of  Buchan  till  its  for- 
feiture by  the  Cumyns  in  1308  ;  they  afterwards  came 
into  the  possession  of  the  ancient  family  of  Cheyne, 
who  built  the  castle  of  Inverugie,  and  who,  being  heri- 
table sheriffs  of  Banff,  wished  this  property  to  be 
placed  under  their  own  jurisdiction,  for  which  pur- 
pose they  obtained  an  act  of  the  legislature.  The  Car- 
melite friary  in  Aberdeen  was  founded  aud  endowed 
by  one  of  this  family,  Reginald  le  Cheyne,  who  secured 
to  it,  by  deed,  £2  annually  out  of  the  lands  of  Black- 
water,  in  this  parish.  His  son,  Sir  Reginald  Cheyne, 
■was  lord  chamberlain  of  Scotland  in  1267  ;  and  another 
son,  named  Henry,  was  bishop  of  Aberdeen  in  1281. 
Sir  Reginald  was  succeeded  in  his  property  by  a  son  of 
the  same  name,  who  was  made  prisoner  at  the  battle 
of  Halidon  Hill  in  1333,  and  who  died  about  1350, 
leaving  two  daughters,  Mary  and  Mariot,  by  the  mar- 
riage of  the  latter  of  whom  with  John  de  Keith,  of 
Raven's-Craig,  the  parish  of  St.  Fergus  passed  into  the 
family  of  the  Keiths.  John  de  Keith  was  second  son 
of  Sir  Edward  Keith,  marischal  of  Scotland  ;  and  the 
issue  of  his  marriage  with  Mariot  Cheyne  continued  a 
separate  branch  of  the  Keiths  until,  in  1538,  the  families 
became  united  by  the  marriage  of  William,  fourth 
earl-marischal,  with  the  heiress  of  Sir  William  Keith 
of  Inverugie.  The  property  escheated  to  the  crown  in 
1715,  by  the  attainder  of  the  then  earl,  and  was  sold 
421 


by  the  crown  to  the  York  Building  Company.  It  was 
purchased,  however,  from  the  trustees  of  the  company 
by  George,  son  of  the  attainted  earl,  in  1761 ;  and 
in  1764  the  family  disposed  of  it  to  James  Ferguson, 
Esq.,  one  of  the  senators  of  the  College  of  Justice,  with 
whose  descendants  it  has  since  remained. 

The  parish  is  five  and  a  half  miles  in  extreme  length, 
and  its  greatest  breadth  is  three  and  a  half  miles  ;  it 
contains  7S/S  acres,  and  is  bounded  on  the  south  by 
the  river  Ugie,  and  on  the  east  by  the  German  Ocean. 
The  shore  is  marked  only  by  one  point  of  any  note, 
called  Scotstown  Craig,  the  beach  being  generally  low 
and  sandy  ;  but  at  a  small  distance  from  the  coast,  a 
line  of  hills  runs  along,  covered  with  a  thick  bed  of 
drifted  sand,  overgrown  with  grass,  and  which  divides 
the  shore  from  the  interior  land,  and  forms  a  natural 
and  efficient  rampart  against  the  drifting  of  the  sands 
into  the  country  by  the  violence  of  the  east  wind. 
These  hills,  varying  in  breadth,  form  the  fine  pasture 
land  known  by  the  name  of  the  Links  of  St.  Fergus,  and 
afford,  perhaps,  the  finest  grazing  for  sheep  and  young 
cattle  of  any  downs  in  the  country.  In  the  lower  part 
of  the  parish,  to  the  extent  of  a  mile  from  the  shore, 
the  ground  is  flat  and  uniform  ;  but  afterwards  it  rises 
towards  the  western  extremity  in  a  succession  of  grace- 
ful undulations,  exhibiting  the  pleasing  aspect  of  a  well 
cultivated  surface.  The  only  high  land  approximating 
to  the  character  of  an  eminence  is  the  Castle  hill, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Inverugie  Castle.  The  climate,  on 
account  of  the  exposure  to  the  sea,  is  cold,  and  the 
impervious  character  of  the  subsoil  renders  it  damp  ; 
yet  it  is  not  found  to  be  unhealthy.  There  are  some 
good  springs  in  the  lower  lands  which  yield  a  constant 
supply  of  water ;  but  in  the  upper  part  a  drought 
sometimes  occurs,  especially  in  the  hot  summer  months. 

The  soil  near  the  shore  is  a  sandy  loam  mixed  with 
moss,  requiring  but  little  labour  for  cultivation ;  it 
produces  turnips,  potatoes,  and  heavy  crops  of  grain, 
which,  however,  is  not  so  fine  in  quality  as  that  grown 
on  the  stronger  lands.  The  middle  portion  of  the 
parish  is  a  tenacious  clay,  yielding  excellent  grain  :  the 
soil  in  the  western  district  is  not  so  good,  being  chiefly 
clay  and  moss,  and  having  not  very  long  ago  been  a 
moor.  The  larger  part  of  the  land  is  arable,  scarcely 
more  than  a  sixth  consisting  of  pasture,  moss,  and 
plantations.  The  Aberdeenshire  and  Buchan  cattle, 
which,  with  their  several  crosses,  formerly  prevailed 
here,  have  within  these  few  years  yielded  to  a  great 
extent  to  the  Teeswater.  The  unfitness  of  the  soil  gene- 
rally for  the  growth  of  turnips  rather  discourages  the 
breeding  of  cattle  ;  but  the  easy  communication  recently 
opened  with  the  London  market  has  stimulated  the 
attempts  to  overcome  this  natural  obstacle,  and  the 
number  of  oxen,  cows,  and  sheep  is  now  very  consider- 
able. Many  improvements  have  taken  place  by  the 
formation  of  main  drains  and  ditches,  the  planting  of 
hedges,  and  the  construction  of  various  kinds  offences; 
the  farm-buildings,  also,  are  much  better  than  formerly, 
and  the  houses  on  the  best  farms  are  generally  slated, 
and  the  offices  tiled.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £6172.  The  rocks  consist  of  granite, 
trap,  gneiss,  greywacke,  and  quartz,  and  these  are  seen 
in  all  kinds  of  combinations  :  limestone  is  also  found, 
frequently  mixed  with  gneiss  and  granite.  There  are 
some    tracts  of  peat-moss,  in  which  remains  of  oak, 


F  E  R  N 


F  E  R  R 


hazel,  and  birch  are  imbedded  ;  the  antlers  of  full-grown 
stags  have  been  found,  and  large  quantities  of  marine 
testacea. 

The  parish  contains  three  mills,  at  one  of  which, 
called  Stone  mill,  were  produced  in  a  recent  year,  150S 
sacks  of  meal,  of  two  and  a  half  hundred-weight  each, 
sent  to  the  London  market,  314  forwarded  to  Shetland, 
and  200  for  home  consumption ;  613  sacks  of  flour 
and  100  sacks  of  barley,  also,  were  prepared  for  domes- 
tic use.  There  is  a  salmon-fishery  on  the  Ugie,  but  it 
has  been  much  injured  by  a  sand-bank  thrown  up  by 
the  sea  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  which  prevents 
the  fish  from  entering,  unless  it  happens  to  be  driven 
back  by  the  force  of  a  land  flood.  Considerable  num- 
bers of  black-trout,  and  the  pearl  muscle,  are  found  in 
the  river  ;  but,  the  pearls  are  not  of  great  value,  being- 
dingy  and  opaque.  The  neighbouring  seas,  also,  abound 
with  fine  fish,  consisting  of  turbot,  sole,  ling,  dog-fish, 
whiting,  herring,  plaice,  flounder,  cod,  and  halibut ;  but 
the  most  valuable  of  these  are  seldom  taken,  as  the 
fishermen  have  no  nets  suitable  for  the  purpose.  There 
is  a  small  village,  independently  of  the  kirktown  ;  but 
the  larger  part  of  the  population  is  scattered  through- 
out the  rural  districts.  The  turnpike-road  from  Fra- 
serburgh to  Peterhead  runs  along  the  parish  from  north 
to  south ;  and  over  the  Ugie  is  a  bridge  for  it,  built  in 
the  latter  part  of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  con- 
necting St.  Fergus  with  the  parish  of  Peterhead.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery 
of  Deer  and  synod  of  Aberdeen ;  patron,  the  Crown  : 
the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £917,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £18  per  annum.  The  church,  erected 
in  1763,  is  a  convenient  structure,  tastefully  decorated 
in  the  interior,  and  having  three  galleries;  it  contains 
610  sittings.  There  is  a  small  meeting-house  belonging 
to  the  Baptists  ;  and  a  parochial  school  is  supported,  in 
which  Latin,  mathematics,  and  the  usual  branches  of 
education  are  taught,  the  master  receiving  a  salary  of 
£34  per  annum,  with  about  £20  fees.  A  good  parish 
library  was  founded  in  1829,  and  a  savings'  bank  in 
1824.  The  chief  relic  of  antiquity  is  the  ruin  of  Inver- 
ugie  Castle,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  earls-mari- 
schal  of  Scotland,  and  the  birthplace  of  Field-Marshal 
Keith,  who  fell  at  the  battle  of  Hochkirchen  in  1758 : 
one  of  the  towers,  of  great  antiquity,  is  called  Cheyne's, 
but  the  greater  part  of  the  fabric  is  said  to  have  been 
erected  by  the  earl  who  founded  Marischal  College, 
Aberdeen.  The  churchyard,  on  the  coast,  is  a  very 
ancient  cemetery,  and  of  such  singular  interest,  partly 
on  account  of  the  loneliness  of  its  situation,  that  the 
late  Dr.  Beattie  often  expressed  a  wish  to  have  his 
remains  deposited  here. 

FERGUSHILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kil- 
winning, district  of  Cunninghame,  county  of  Ayr  ; 
containing  279  inhabitants.  This  village  has  sprung 
up  within  the  last  few  years  owing  to  the  extension  of 
coal-mines  in  its  vicinity,  the  population  being  princi- 
pally engaged  in  the  works ;  and  it  has  already  become 
one  of  the  chief  villages  of  the  parish. 

FERNIE  EASTER,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of 
Monimail,  district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife,  3  miles 
(W.byN.)  from  Cupar;  containing  44  inhabitants.  It  lies 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish ;  and  in  its  vicinity  is 
Fernie  Castle,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  one  of 
Macduff's  castles,  and  was  evidently  of  great  strength. 
422 


FERNIGAIR,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Hamil- 
ton, Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  1  mile 
(S.  E.  by  E.)  from  Hamilton  ;  containing  74  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  and  on 
the  turnpike-road  from  Hamilton  to  Larkhall :  the  Clyde 
flows  at  a  short  distance  from  the  village. 

FERRYDEN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Craig, 
county  of  Forfar  ;  containing  921  inhabitants.  This  is 
a  considerable  village,  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
South  Esk  river,  immediately  opposite  the  harbour  of 
Montrose,  and  is  a  prosperous  place,  with  a  rapidly 
increasing  population,  chiefly  fishermen  and  their  fami- 
lies. Between  twenty  and  thirty  boats  are  engaged  in 
the  white-fishery  alone,  which  here  consists  principally 
of  cod,  haddock,  and  skate,  all  taken  in  great  quantity ; 
and  much  salmon  is  also  caught  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Esk,  the  various  kinds  of  fish  from  this  quarter  largely 
supplying  the  Edinburgh  and  London  markets.  There 
is  a  good  harbour,  with  a  safe  roadstead  ;  and  here,  pre- 
viously to  the  erection  of  bridges  higher  up  the  river, 
was  a  ferry  to  Montrose.  In  the  village  is  a  school, 
supported  by  an  endowment,  bequeathed  by  a  benevo- 
lent lady,  lately  deceased. 

FERRYPORT-ON-CRAIG,  a  parish,  in  the  district 
of  St.  Andrew's,  county  of  Fife,  1 1  miles  (N.  E.  by  N.) 
from  Cupar;  containing  1741  inhabitants,  of  whom. 
1556  are  in  the  village.  This  place  formed  part  of  the 
ancient  lands  of  Craig,  belonging  to  Archbishop  Sharp, 
of  St.  Andrew's,  who,  by  authority  of  the  pope,  granted 
them  on  lease  to  the  Scotts,  of  Balwearie,  in  Fifeshire, 
from  whom,  to  distinguish  them  from  others  in  the 
county,  of  the  same  name,  they  received  the  appellation 
of  Scotscraig,  which  they  still  retain.  The  name  of  the 
village  is  obviously  derived  from  the  establishment  of  a 
ferry  over  the  Tay  to  the  opposite  shore  at  Broughty, 
to  which  ferry,  previously  to  the  erection  of  a  pier  for 
their  better  accommodation,  passengers  had  access  only 
by  means  of  a  platform  of  timber  extending  to  the 
boats  from  the  rugged  rocks  which  girt  the  coast.  The 
lands  are  supposed  to  have  been  part  of  the  parish  of 
Leuchars  previously  to  the  year  1606,  when,  by  act  of 
James  VI.,  they  were  erected  into  a  distinct  parish ; 
and  in  confirmation  of  that  opinion,  one  of  the  fields  is 
still  called  the  Chapel,  probably  from  the  existence  of  a 
chapel  of  ease  to  the  mother  church  prior  to  the  sepa- 
ration. There  was  a  castle  at  this  place,  but  at  what 
time  or  by  whom  it  was  founded,  does  not  appear: 
from  the  style  of  the  building,  as  far  as  can  be  ascer- 
tained from  the  small  portions  of  it  still  remaining,  it 
seems  to  have  been  adapted  for  the  use  of  cannon,  and 
to  have  been  erected  to  defend  this  pass  of  the  river,  in 
conjunction  with  the  castle  of  Broughty,  in  Forfarshire. 
The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Tay, 
which  washes  its  coast  for  nearly  five  miles  before  it 
falls  into  the  German  Ocean  ;  it  differs  greatly  in 
breadth,  not.  exceeding  in  the  widest  part  a  mile  and  a 
half,  and  comprises  2600  acres,  of  which  1400  are 
arable,  120  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remain- 
der rough  pasture  and  waste.  The  surface  is  abruptly 
varied,  being  in  the  eastern  parts  flat  and  low,  and  in 
others  rising  into  ridges  of  craggy  rock.  Its  rugged 
aspect  has  under  recent  improvements  been  consider- 
ably softened,  and  many  rocks  near  the  village,  which 
is  situated  on  the  shore,  have  been  removed;  but  to 
the  westward  the  lands  are  still  precipitous,  and  very 


FE  R  R 


FETL 


irregular.  Except  the  Tay,  there  is  no  stream  of  any 
consequence;  but  numerous  springs  in  the  higher 
grounds,  descending  to  the  low  lands,  afford  an  abun- 
dant supply  of  excellent  water.  The  soil  in  the  lower 
parts  of  the  parish  is  a  light  loam,  resting  on  a  bed  of 
sand  j  and  in  the  higher,  a  rich  black  loam,  on  a  sub- 
stratum of  whinstone.  The  agricultural  district  is 
■under  good  cultivation,  and  extremely  productive ;  the 
crops  are,  barley,  oats,  rye,  and  wheat,  with  potatoes, 
of  which  considerable  quantities  are  raised  for  the  Lon- 
don market,  turnips,  and  the  usual  green  crops  :  flax 
was  formerly  grown  to  a  good  extent,  but  for  many 
years  has  been  totally  discontinued.  The  pastures 
maintain  large  numbers  of  sheep  and  cattle,  the  former 
chiefly  a  cross  between  the  Cheviot  and  Leicestershire 
breeds,  and  the  latter  a  mixture  of  the  Fife,  Angus,  and 
Ayrshire  :  there  is  a  small  undivided  common  of  about 
twenty  acres,  on  which  all  the  inhabitants  have  a  right 
of  pasturage.  The  woods  consist  mainly  of  larch  and 
oak,  which  latter,  though  of  recent  introduction,  appears 
to  thrive  well.  The  farm-buildings  are  in  general  sub- 
stantial and  commodious,  and  some,  of  more  modern 
erection,  are  of  very  superior  order ;  but  little  progress 
has  hitherto  been  made  in  inclosing  the  lands,  which, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  fields,  are  wholly  open. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  Ferryport-on-Craig  is 
£3191. 

The  principal  proprietor  in  the  parish  is  the  owner  of 
Scotscraig,  whose  mansion,  erected  in  1807,  is  a  spa- 
cious structure,  beautifully  situated  in  grounds  taste- 
fully laid  out,  and  embellished  with  plantations.  The 
village  consists  of  more  than  300  neatly-built  houses, 
chiefly  one  story  in  height,  with  a  few  of  two  stories, 
and  some  larger  houses  of  recent  erection,  which  are 
handsomely  built,  and  roofed  with  blue  slate.  The 
shore  has  been  greatly  improved  by  the  levelling  of 
various  eminences  that  impeded  the  communication 
between  the  village  and  the  river.  Two  piers  have  been 
constructed  at  the  ferry,  at  the  larger  of  which  vessels 
laden  with  coal  and  other  necessaries  land  their  car- 
goes for  the  supply  of  the  neighbourhood,  and  whence 
grain,  potatoes,  and  other  agricultural  produce  are 
shipped  for  the  London  market ;  the  smaller  pier  is  the 
landing-place  for  passengers  by  the  ferry-boats.  There 
is  an  extensive  salmon-fishery  belonging  to  the  proprie- 
tor of  Scotscraig,  and  extending  along  the  coast  for  the 
whole  length  of  the  parish  ;  it  formerly  produced  an 
annual  rental  of  £2000,  but,  since  the  disuse  of  stake- 
nets,  which  were  formerly  employed,  it  yields  only 
about  £600.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  village 
and  parish  are  employed  in  hand-loom  weaving  for  the 
manufacturers  of  Dundee,  to  which,  during  the  winter 
months,  they  devote  their  chief  attention,  in  the  sum- 
mer resuming  their  agricultural  labours.  A  fair,  once 
very  numerously  attended,  is  still  held  in  the  village 
on  the  first  Tuesday  in  June  (O.  S.),  but  is  now  resorted 
to  only  by  a  few  dealers  in  general  merchandise.  Faci- 
lity of  communication  between  this  place  and  the  neigh- 
bouring towns  is  partly  afforded  by  an  excellent  line  of 
road  extending  for  about  three  miles  from  the  village  to 
Newport,  which  was  formed  in  1S30,  at  the  sole  expense 
of  Robert  Dalgleish,  Esq.,  at  that  time  proprietor  of 
Scotscraig  ;  and  regular  intercourse  with  Dundee  is 
maintained,  either  by  steamers  from  Newport,  or  by 
sailing-packets  which  leave  the  ferry  here  daily.  A 
423 


library,  established  in  the  village  very  recently,  con- 
tains a  valuable  collection  ;  and  in  1S36,  a  savings'  bank 
was  opened,  which  has  proved  successful.  The  parish 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  St.  Andrew's  and  synod  of  Fife; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £159.  13.,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £35  per  annum.  The  church,  rebuilt 
in  1S25,  is  a  neat  and  substantial  edifice  situated  in  the 
village,  and  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  900  persons. 
There  are  also  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church  and  the  United  Secession.  The  parochial 
school  affords  an  extensive  course  of  instruction  ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  £19  fees,  and  a  good 
house  and  garden.  Five  free  scholars  are  taught  in  con- 
sideration of  a  bequest  for  that  purpose  by  William 
Dalgleish,  Esq. ;  they  are  nominated  by  the  proprietor 
of  Scotscraig  and  the  incumbent  of  the  parish,  and 
remain  in  the  school  for  five  years.  There  are  also 
several  Sabbath-evening  schools,  supported  by  con- 
tributions collected  at  the  church.  Some  vestiges  of 
the  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrew's  palace  here  are  yet 
remaining. 

FETLAR  and  NORTH  YELL,  a  parish,  in  the  county 
of  Shetland;  containing  1745  inhabitants,  of  whom 
761  are  in  Fetlar,  36  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Lerwick. 
This  parish,  which  is  situated  nearly  at  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  Shetland  isles,  consists  of  the  island 
of  Fetlar  and  the  northern  part  of  that  of  Yell.  The 
former  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  channel  separat- 
ing it  from  the  islands  of  Unst  and  Uyea,  on  the  south 
by  the  wide  channel  which  divides  it  from  Whalsey 
island  and  the  Mainland,  on  the  east  by  the  German 
Ocean,  and  on  the  west  by  Colgrave  Sound,  separating 
it  from  the  island  of  Yell.  The  latter  district,  North 
Yell,  is  bounded  on  the  west  and  north  by  the  northern 
ocean,  and  on  the  east  by  the  frith  called  Blue  Mull 
Sound,  which  divides  it  from  the  island  of  Unst.  Fetlar 
is  seven  miles  in  length  and  four  in  breadth,  and  com- 
prises 7S6f  merks  of  land  under  cultivation  (each  mcrk 
being  about  three-quarters  of  an  acre),  and  between 
10,000  and  12,000  acres  which,  with  the  exception  of 
1200,  are  undivided  common;  North  Yell  is  six  miles 
long  and  five  broad,  and  contains  634  merks  of  culti- 
vated, and  from  12,000  to  15,000  acres  of  uncultivated 
land. 

The  situation  is  bleak,  and  the  surface  hilly ;  but 
there  are  no  lofty  elevations,  the  highest  grounds  not 
rising  more  than  300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
being,  in  each  district,  alternated  with  tolerably  fertile 
valleys.  The  islands  are  singularly  irregular  in  figure, 
and  the  coast  is  indented  with  fissures,  creeks,  and  bays 
of  various  extent.  Of  the  last  the  principal,  in  Fetlar, 
are  those  of  Aith,  Tresta,  Strand,  Mowick,  Funzie,  a  ling- 
fishing  station,  Gruting  voe,  and  Urie  bay,  where  a  kind 
of  pier  has  lately  been  erected ;  but  none  of  these  are 
considered  safe  harbours.  North  Yell,  in  this  respect, 
has  much  the  advantage,  the  bays  of  Basta  voe  and 
Cullivoe  forming  excellent  retreats  and  landing-places  ; 
besides  which,  it  has  the  bays  of  Papal,  Gloup  voe,  and 
other  inlets.  Colgrave  Sound,  encompassing  Fetlar 
from  south-west  to  north-west,  is  a  rapid  and  dangerous 
channel,  about  nine  miles  across  in  the  widest,  and 
three  miles  in  the  narrowest,  part.  Blue-Mull  Sound 
measures  in  the  narrowest  part  about  a  mile  across, 
and  the  Sound  between  the  islands  of  Fetlar  and  Unst 
is  five  miles  broad;  in  both  these  channels,  but  espe- 


F  ETL 


F  E  TT 


cially  in  that  of  Blue-Mull,  the  tide  runs  with  great 
force,  and  the  passage  is  often  hazardous.  The  rocks 
on  the  coast  are  frequently  covered  with  sea-fowl  ;  wild 
pigeons  are  numerous,  and  flocks  of  wild  swans  often 
visit  the  islands.  There  are  many  small  lakes,  abound- 
ing with  trout,  the  largest  of  which  is  one  in  Fetlar, 
near  the  manse,  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length, 
and  a  quarter  in  breadth. 

The  inhabitants  are  employed  in  agriculture  and  fish- 
ing, the  latter  occupation  engaging  most  of  their  atten- 
tion. The  soil  in  Fetlar  comprises  sand,  clay,  and  marl ; 
that  in  North  Yell  is  chiefly  a  peat-moss  :  each  pro- 
duces good  oats  and  potatoes,  but  barley  is  cultivated 
only  to  a  very  limited  extent,  and  wheat  is  rarely  seen, 
the  want  of  inclosures  to  protect  these  kinds  of  grain, 
and  of  sun  to  ripen  them,  being  the  chief  obstacles. 
The  rotation  system  is  partially  practised  5  but  the 
ground  is  generally  turned  with  a  spade,  the  number  of 
ploughs  being  very  small ;  and  the  state  of  agriculture 
throughout  the  two  districts  indicates  strongly  the  want 
of  resources,  and  much  more  attention  and  skill,  to 
place  it  on  a  respectable  footing.  In  North  Yell,  many 
plots  of  common  ground  have  recently  been  brought 
under  cultivation,  and  a  few  in  Fetlar.  The  sheep  and 
cattle  are  mostly  of  the  native  breed,  small  but  hardy, 
and  appear  to  thrive  better  than  any  others  :  a  mixed 
breed  of  sheep,  introduced  some  time  since  by  Sir 
Arthur  Nicolson,  has  not  been  found  well  suited  to  the 
climate,  and  a  few  cows  of  a  larger  growth  which  have 
been  tried,  have  in  the  same  manner  proved  unequal  to 
meet  the  severity  of  the  district.  The  ponies  bred  are 
of  the  same  size,  vigorous  spirit,  and  untiring  strength, 
as  those  in  the  other  isles  of  Shetland.  The  rocks 
comprise  mica-slate,  quartz,  thlorite-slate,  gneiss,  clay- 
slate,  and  serpentine  containing  chromate  of  iron,  the 
last  of  which,  formerly  exceedingly  abundant,  was  for 
Jong  occasionally  quarried  in  the  island  of  Fetlar. 
With  the  common  stone  from  the  same  locality,  a  man- 
sion-house has  been  recently  built  by  Sir  Arthur  Nicol- 
son, and  another  by  Mr.  Smith,  a  heritor ;  and  quarries 
.in  the  island  of  Yell  have  supplied  a  material  for  the 
erection  of  the  houses  of  Gloup,  Greenbank,  and  Mid- 
brake,  the  dressings,  however,  being  of  free-stone 
brought  from  Lerwick.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £806. 

■  The  fisheries  of  ling  and  herrings,  which  are  among  the 
principal,  occupy  much  of  the  time  of  the  inhabitants  ; 
in  addition  to  which,  tusk,  cod,  saith,  and  other  kinds 
are  taken  nearly  all  the  year  round.  The  fish  caught  in 
winter  are  salted,  and  preserved  in  vats  till  spring, 
when  they  are  dried  and  exported  to  Leith  ;  the  fish 
taken  in  summer  are  preserved  in  the  same  manner, 
and  sent,  not  only  to  the  market  of  Leith,  but  also  to 
Ireland  and  Spain  :  the  produce  of  the  herring-fishery, 
which  is  carried  on  to  a  tolerable  extent  in  August 
and  September,  is  forwarded,  when  cured,  to  Leith  and 
to  Ireland.  The  stations  for  the  ling-fishery  are,  Fun- 
zie,  on  the  eastern  side  of  Fetlar,  and  Gloup,  on  the 
north  side  of  Yell,  towards  the  northern  ocean ;  and 
Urie,  Strand,  and  Aith  banks,  in  Fetlar,  and  Cullivoe 
and  Bayanne,  in  North  Yell,  are  stations  for  the  curing 
of  herrings.  A  large  quantity  of  skate,  halibut,  had- 
dock, sillock,  piltock,  and  whiting,  is  also  taken,  fur- 
nishing the  inhabitants  with  a  considerable  portion 
of  their  subsistence  5  and  there  are  oysters  at  Basta  voe, 
424 


and  a  good  supply  of  several  other  kinds  of  shell-fish. 
The  parish  is  entirely  destitute  of  conveyances  and  roads ; 
and  the  intercourse  with  Lerwick,  the  only  market- 
town  of  the  Shetlands,  is  so  uncertain  and  dangerous, 
that,  although  the  post-office  in  North  Yell  communi- 
cates twice  a  week  with  that  place  in  fair  weather, 
letters  are  often  delayed  for  a  long  time  on  their  route. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  presbytery  of 
Burravoe  and  synod  of  Shetland,  and  the  patronage 
vested  in  the  Earl  of  Zetland  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£IS0,  including  the  sum  for  communion  elements,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £9  per  annum.  There 
are  two  churches,  both  very  near  the  sea-shore ;  that  in 
Fetlar  was  rebuilt  in  ] 790,  and  accommodates  269 
persons,  and  that  in  North  Yell  was  built  in  1S32, 
and  contains  sittings  for  390.  The  Wesleyans  have 
a  place  of  worship  in  Fetlar.  The  parochial  school  is 
in  North  Yell,  and  affords  instruction  in  reading,  writing, 
arithmetic,  book-keeping,  and  navigation  ;  the  master 
has  the  minimum  salary,  and  receives  a  few  pounds  in 
fees.  In  Fetlar  is  a  school  of  much  longer  standing  than 
the  parochial  school  supported  by  the  Society  for  Propa- 
gating Christian  Knowledge ;  the  master,  who  teaches 
the  same  branches  as  those  taught  in  the  other  school, 
receives  a  salary  of  £15,  and  a  small  amount  in  fees. 
There  is  also  a  small  subscription  library.  The  anti- 
quities comprehend  the  remains  of  several  chapels  and 
forts,  a  Roman  camp  at  Snawburgh,  several  fonts,  which 
have  been  dug  up  at  Aithsness,  and  a  few  urns  contain- 
ing ashes  and  bones. 

FETTERANGUS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Old 
Deer,  county  of  Banff,  1§  mile  (N.N.  E.)  from  Deer; 
containing  225  inhabitants.  This  place  is  locally  situ- 
ated in  the  shire  of  Aberdeen,  and  is  a  modern  village, 
erected  on  the  estate  of  Mr.  Ferguson,  of  Pitfour  :  the 
population  is  employed  chiefly  in  the  linen  manufacture. 
A  little  east  of  the  village  is  the  great  road  from  Fraser- 
burgh to  Aberdeen. 

FETTERCAIRN,  a  burgh  of  barony  and  a  parish, 
in  the  county  of  Kincardine,  15|  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from 
Stonehaven  ;  containing  1*93  inhabitants,  of  whom  3/2 
are  in  the  burgh.  This  place  is  supposed  to  have  de- 
rived its  name  from  several  cairns  on  the  ascent  of 
one  of  the  mountains  by  which  it  is  bounded  on  the 
north,  raised  over  the  remains  of  the  warriors  who 
fell  in  battles  which,  according  to  tradition,  were  fought 
in  this  pass  of  the  Grampiaus.  The  only  event  of  his- 
torical importance  connected  with  the  parish,  is  the 
murder  of  Kenneth  III.,  King  of  Scotland,  which  took 
place  in  the  castle  of  Fenella  about  a  mile  to  the  west 
of  the  village.  The  details  of  this  occurrence,  though 
variously  recorded  by  historians,  ascribe  the  murder  to 
Fenella,  the  proprietor  of  the  castle,  in  resentment  of 
the  death  of  her  son,  whom  that  monarch  had  sentenced 
to  execution  for  rebellion.  The  lands  of  Fettercairn 
were  formerly  the  property  of  theMiddletons,  of  whom 
John,  the  zealous  adherent  of  Charles  I.  and  II.,  was, 
after  the  Restoration,  created  Earl  of  Middleton  and 
Viscount  Fettercairn ;  and  the  estates  continued  in  the 
possession  of  that  family  till  1777,  when  they  were 
purchased  by  Sir  John  Stuart,  Bart.,  maternal  grand- 
father of  the  present  proprietor. 

The  village,  though  possessing  the  privileges  of  a 
burgh  of  barony,  is  not  distinguished  by  any  features 
of  importance.     There  are  two  libraries,  of  which  one, 


FETT 


FETT 


of  about  500  volumes,  is  the  property  of  the  Fettercairn 
Club,  and  the  other,  containing  nearly  an  equal  num- 
ber, is  parochial,  and  supported  by  subscription.  At 
Nethermill,  adjoining  the  village,  is  a  distillery  of  whisky 
from  malt  only;  and  at  Arnhall,  on  the  banks  of  the 
North  Esk,  is  a  mill  for  carding  and  spinning  wool, 
and  for  the  manufacture  of  coarse  woollen-cloths.  The 
post-office,  under  that  of  Montrose,  has  a  daily  delivery 
by  a  messenger  from  that  town  ;  and  facility  of  com- 
munication is  afforded  by  good  roads,  kept  in  repair 
by  statute  labour,  and  which  pass  through  the  village, 
and  intersect  the  neighbourhood  in  various  directions. 
The  parish,  which  is  situated  in  the  western  portion  of 
the  county,  on  the  south  of  the  Grampian  hills,  is 
bounded  on  the  south-west  by  the  North  Esk  river  for 
about  three  miles,  and  is  nearly  eight  miles  in  length 
and  four  and  a  half  in  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of 
13,000  acres,  of  which  7500  are  arable,  1800  woodland 
and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  pasture,  moss,  and 
waste.  The  surface  rises  gradually,  in  gentle  undula- 
tions, to  the  base  of  the  Grampian  hills,  of  which  the 
highest  within  the  parish  has  not  an  elevation  of  more 
than  1600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  There  are 
numerous  springs,  some  with  a  chalybeate  property; 
but  the  only  river  is  the  North  Esk,  over  which  is  the 
romantic  bridge  of  Gannachy,  connecting  the  parish 
with  that  of  Edzell,  a  structure  of  one  arch  thirty  feet 
in  height  and  fifty-two  feet  span,  springing  from  two 
precipitous  rocks,  and  built  in  1732,  by  Mr.  Black,  of 
Edzell.  The  soil  is  various,  in  some  parts  alluvial,  in 
some  a  stiff  clay,  and  in  others  a  deep  moss  alternated 
with  gravel ;  the  crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  potatoes, 
and  turnips.  The  system  of  agriculture  has  been  con- 
siderably improved  under  the  auspices  of  the  Fettercairn 
Club,  who  hold  their  meetings  in  the  village ;  much  of 
the  waste  land  has  been  reclaimed  by  draining ;  the 
farm-buildings  are  comfortable  and  substantial,  the  lands 
well  inclosed,  and  on  most  of  the  farms  threshing-mills 
have  been  erected.  Much  attention  is  paid  to  the  im- 
provement of  live  stock  ;  the  sheep,  with  the  exception  of 
a  few  Cheviots,  are  generally  of  the  black-faced  breed, 
and  the  black- cattle  of  the  Augusshire,  with  some  of  the 
Aberdeenshire  and  Ayrshire.  Considerable  numbers  of 
swine  are  also  reared,  all  of  the  Chinese  breed.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £9107. 

The  plantations,  which  are  extensive,  consist  of  the 
usual  varieties,  the  most  conspicuous  being  the  ash, 
beech,  and  fir  ;  they  are  under  careful  management,  and 
in  a  thriving  state.  The  principal  substrata  are,  red 
freestone,  whinstone,  and  limestone  ;  and  porcelain  clay 
of  fine  quality  is  found  on  the  banks  of  a  small  burn, 
at  Balnakettle.  Fettercairn  House  is  an  ancient  edifice, 
to  which  large  additions  have  been  lately  made  by  the 
proprietor.  Fasque  is  a  spacious  house  in  the  castel- 
lated style,  beautifully  situated  on  an  eminence,  in 
diversified  grounds,  in  which  is  a  fine  sheet  of  w:ater 
twenty  acres  in  extent,  which,  with  the  stately  approach  to 
the  house,  was  formed  by  the  present  owner.  The  Burn 
House  is  a  handsome  modern  mansion,  on  the  banks  of 
the  North  Esk,  in  a  richly-planted  demesne,  tastefully 
laid  out  in  walks,  and  commanding  much  picturesque 
scenery.  Balbegno  Castle  is  an  ancient  and  spacious 
building,  on  the  parapet  of  which  are  various  sculptures 
and  the  date  1509;  the  interior  contains  a  noble  hall, 
of  which  the  lofty  roof  of  stone  is  richly  groined,  and 
Vol.  I.—  425 


divided  into  sixteen  compartments,  in  which  are  em- 
blazoned the  armorial  bearings  of  sixteen  peers  of 
Scotland.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Fordoun  and  synod 
of  Angus  and  Mearns.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £232, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum  ; 
patron,  the  Crown.  The  church,  erected  in  1804,  and 
enlarged  in  1S39,  is  a  handsome  structure,  with  a  tower, 
and  spire  rising  to  the  height  of  104  feet;  it  is  beau- 
tifully situated,  and  contains  1000  sittings,  of  which  the 
number  may  be  easily  augmented.  The  members  of 
the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  well  conducted ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average 
about  £30  per  annum,  to  which  maybe  added  £1.  15., 
the  rent  of  a  bequest  in  land.  A  female  school  in  the 
village  is  supported  by  Sir  John  Stuart  Forbes,  who 
provides  a  school-room  and  house  rent-free  for  the  mis- 
tress, to  whom  he  pays  a  salary,  in  addition  to  the  school 
fees.  An  almshouse  has  been  built  by  Mr.  Gladstone 
for  eight  people,  to  each  of  whom  he  allows  a  room  and 
garden.  Dr.  Ramsay,  of  Barbadoes,  bequeathed  £500 ; 
Provost  Christie,  of  Montrose,  £50;  James  Black,  the 
builder  of  Gannachy  bridge,  200  merks  ;  George  Cooper, 
of  Slateford,  £20;  R.  Valentine,  of  Bogindollo,  £50; 
Anthony  Glen,  of  Luthermuir,  £20;  and  James  Smith, 
of  Fettercairn,  several  houses ;  all  intended  for  the 
relief  of  the  poor  of  the  parish.  In  the  village  is  pre- 
served the  ancient  cross  of  Kincardine,  an  octagonal 
column  to  which  is  an  ascent  of  six  stone  steps  ;  on 
the  capital  are  the  arms  of  John,  Earl  of  Middleton, 
with  his  coronet  and  initials.  Greencairn,  the  supposed 
residence  of  Dame  Fenella,  is  now  a  heap  of  shapeless 
ruins. 

FETTERESSO,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Kincar- 
dine ;  containing,  with  about  two-thirds  of  the  town 
of  Stonehaven,  5212  inhabitants.  This  place,  of  which 
the  name,  in  the  Celtic  language,  is  perhaps  descriptive 
of  the  marshy  nature  of  its  lands,  is  of  very  remote 
antiquity,  and  is  distinguished  as  the  site  of  a  station 
occupied  either  by  the  Caledonians  or  the  Romans. 
The  latter  people,  having,  under  Agricola,  subdued  the 
southern  portion  of  the  country,  advanced  with  an 
army  of  26,000  men  towards  the  north,  and,  near 
the  Grampian  mountains,  and  most  probably  in  this 
neighbourhood,  encountered  the  Caledonians  under 
Galgacus,  their  king,  who,  with  30,000  men,  defending 
his  country  against  the  invaders,  routed  their  ninth 
legion,  but  was  finally  subdued.  The  remains  of  this 
station,  which  inclosed  an  area  of  seventy-one  acres, 
and  was  defended  by  a  vallum  and  fosse,  are  still  nearly 
entire  ;  and  till  within  the  few  last  years,  there  were 
existing  the  remains  of  another  camp  near  Stonehaven, 
about  three  or  four  miles  distant  from  the  former.  The 
ancient  forest  of  Craigie,  and  subsequently  the  whole  of 
the  lordship  of  Cowie,  in  this  parish,  together  with 
numerous  other  lands  in  the  counties  of  Aberdeen  and 
Kincardine,  were  granted  by  Robert  Bruce  to  his 
steady  adherent,  Sir  Alexander  Fraser,  who  signalised 
himself  at  Bannockburn,  and  was  killed  in  the  battle 
of  Duplin,  in  1332.  Upon  his  death  the  principal  lands 
descended  to  his  son,  whose  only  daughter  and  heiress 
conveyed  them,  by  marriage,  to  Sir  William  de  Keith, 
the  great  marischal  of  Scotland,  and  ancestor  of  the 
familv  of  the  earls-marischal,  whose  chief  residence  in 

3  I 


FETT 


FE  TT 


this  part  of  the  country  was  for  many  ages  the  castle 
of  Fetteresso,  in  which  James  VII.,  after  his  landing  at 
Peterhead  in  1715,  was  for  some  time  hospitably  enter- 
tained. On  the  attainder  of  the  last  earl,  the  estates 
were  forfeited  to  the  crown ;  and  in  the  year  1782, 
the  castle  and  property  of  Fetteresso  were  bought  by 
the  late  Admiral  Duff,  in  whose  family  they  still  re- 
main. A  portion  of  the  lands,  now  the  barony  of  Ury, 
was  inherited  by  Sir  William,  a  second  son  of  Sir 
Alexander  Fraser,  who  sold  it  in  1413  to  William  de 
Hay,  lord  of  Errol,  and  constable  of  Scotland ;  and  it 
was  subsequently  purchased  by  the  Marischal  family, 
who,  in  1647,  sold  it  to  Colonel  David  Barclay,  whose 
descendant  is  the  present  proprietor. 

The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the 
German  Ocean,  is  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  be- 
tween five  and  six  in  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of 
24,914  acres,  of  which  about  10,000  are  arable,  2000 
woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  meadow, 
pasture,  and  waste.  The  surface  is  abruptly  varied, 
though  not  rising  into  mountainous  elevation  ;  and  the 
scenery  embraces  much  diversity  of  chai-aeter,  in  some 
parts  enriched  with  thriving  plantations  and  being  pleas- 
ingly picturesque,  in  others  dreary  and  barren.  The 
river  Carron,  which  separates  the  parish  from  that  of 
Dunnottar,  forms  its  southern  boundary  for  about  five 
miles,  and  falls  into  the  sea  at  Stonehaven ;  and  the 
Cowie,  which  flows  through  the  parish  in  a  direction 
nearly  parallel,  falls  into  the  sea  at  the  small  bay  of 
Cowie,  to  the  north.  The  surface  is  also  intersected  by 
two  rivulets,  Muchalls  and  Elsick,  which  though  gene- 
rally inconsiderable,  are  sometimes  swollen  by  the  ac- 
cession of  numerous  streamlets,  and  inundate  the  adja- 
cent lands.  The  soil  is  extremely  various  ;  in  the  east 
and  south,  rich  and  fertile ;  in  other  places,  of  very 
inferior  quality  ;  and  in  some  parts  wholly  unprofitable. 
The  system  of  agriculture  was  greatly  improved  by  the 
late  Mr.  Barclay,  who,  by  great  perseverance,  brought 
it  to  its  present  state  of  perfection  :  several  of  the  lands 
have  been  carefully  drained.  The  chief  crops  are  oats 
and  barley,  with  some  wheat,  which  is  not  however  in 
extensive  cultivation,  and  turnips,  of  which  very  con- 
siderable quantities  are  grown  :  several  portions  of  land 
are  let  in  small  lots  annually,  for  raising  potatoes,  which 
are  partly  shipped  from  Stonehaven  for  London.  The 
pastures  are  very  extensive,  and  there  are  numerous 
herds  of  cattle,  chiefly  of  the  Angus,  with  some  of 
the  Teeswater  or  short-horned  breed ;  nearly  400  are 
fattened  annually,  and  sent  to  the  different  markets 
in  the  district,  and  to  London  and  other  distant  parts 
by  steamers  from  Aberdeen.  The  horses  are  chiefly 
reared  for  agricultural  uses,  and  but  little  attention 
has  been  paid  to  the  improvement  of  the  breed.  The 
sheep  are  of  various  kinds,  and  part  of  them  of  the 
Leicestershire  breed,  of  which  a  few  are  shipped  for  the 
London  market ;  they  are  mostly  fed  upon  turnips  on 
the  several  farms,  but  some  are  pastured  on  the  hills, 
though  not  to  so  great  an  extent  as  formerly.  The 
dairy-farms  are  well  managed ;  and  large  quantities  of 
butter,  cheese,  poultry,  and  eggs  are  forwarded  to  Aber- 
deen and  Stonehaven.  The  farm-buildings  have  been 
much  improved,  and  on  most  of  the  farms  are  threshing  - 
mills,  of  which  many  are  driven  by  water,  and  one  by 
steam-power.  The  woods  and  plantations  are  exten- 
sive j  the  former,  though  in  parts  unproductive  from 
426 


the  nature  of  the  subsoil,  still  contain  a  good  deal  of 
valuable  timber,  and  the  latter,  with  the  exception  of 
the  larches  on  some  particular  lands,  are  generally 
thriving.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£19,209. 

Fetteresso  Castle,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Marischal 
family,  beautifully  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Carron,  was  partly  rebuilt  by  the  late  Mr.  Duff;  it  is  a 
spacious  mansion,  surrounded  by  an  extensive  and  well- 
wooded  park,  in  which  is  some  stately  timber,  and  the 
gardens  and  pleasure-grounds  are  tastefully  laid  out. 
Ury,  originally  built  by  the  Hay  family,  is  situated  on  a 
steep  acclivity  of  the  river  Cowie ;  it  is  of  moderate 
extent,  but  of  great  strength,  with  vaulted  roofs  of  stone. 
The  park  is  extensive,  and  contains  many  trees  of  vene- 
rable growth,  and  some  thriving  modern  plantations ; 
the  grounds  are  well  disposed,  and  the  gardens,  formed 
on  terraces,  add  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  their  appear- 
ance. Netherley  and  Muchalls  are  handsome  mansions : 
the  latter,  a  fine  old  edifice,  for  ages  the  residence  of 
the  Burnet  family,  is  on  an  eminence  near  the  sea. 
Elsick  is  also  an  ancient  mansion,  formerly  belonging 
to  the  Bannermans  ;  Cowie  is  a  small  but  handsome 
house.  There  are  several  fishing-villages  on  the  coast ; 
one  at  Cowie,  where  eight  boats  are  engaged,  each  with 
a  crew  of  five  men  ;  one  at  Sketteraw,  employing  seven, 
and  one  at  Stranathro,  having  four  boats.  At  these 
stations  are  small  harbours,  well  adapted  for  the  pur- 
pose. The  chief  fish  taken  off  the  coast  are,  haddock, 
cod,  and  ling,  of  which  great  quantities,  especially  of 
haddock,  are  dried  and  smoked,  and  sent  for  the  supply 
of  the  neighbouring  towns,  and  by  steamers  from  Aber- 
deen to  London.  The  inhabitants  of  these  villages  are 
during  the  season  employed  in  the  herring-fishery,  in 
which  about  fifteen  boats  are  usually  engaged.  There 
are  also  some  salmon-fisheries  in  the  parish,  let  to 
tenants  whose  aggregate  rents,  however,  do  not  exceed 
£100  per  annum;  the  greater  number  of  the  salmon 
are  forwarded  to  London.  Woollen-cloth  for  domestic 
use  is  woven  by  several  families  in  the  parish,  and  there 
is  a  small  mill  for  spinning  the  yarn ;  many  of  the 
females,  also,  are  employed  in  knitting  woollen-hose  for 
the  manufacturers  of  Aberdeen.  Facility  of  communi- 
cation is  afforded  by  good  roads,  of  which  the  turnpike- 
road  from  the  south  to  Aberdeen  passes  through  the 
parish,  and  by  the  Aberdeen  and  Edinburgh  steam- 
boats, which  touch  here  on  their  way.  Fairs,  chiefly  for 
cattle,  are  held  at  Muchalls  frequently  during  the  year. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Fordoun  and  synod  of  Angus 
and  Mearns.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £253.  11.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £16  per  annum  ;  patron, 
the  Crown.  The  present  church,  erected  in  1813,  on  a 
site  near  Stonehaven,  is  a  handsome  structure  contain- 
ing 1400  sittings  :  some  remains  exist  of  the  ancient 
church,  to  which  is  attached  an  extensive  cemetery,  still 
used.  There  is  a  chapel  of  ease  at  Cookney,  on  the 
lands  of  Muchalls,  a  neat  building  with  700  sittings,  the 
minister  of  which  derives  an  income  from  the  seat- 
rents  ;  and  on  the  same  lands  is  an  episcopal  chapel. 
Two  parochial  schools  are  maintained,  one  in  the  north- 
ern, and  one  in  the  southern  district  of  the  parish ; 
the  master  of  the  former  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  fees 
amounting  to  £20  per  annum,  and  the  latter  a  salary  of 
£17,  and   £10  fees,  one  of  them  having  also  a  house. 


FIFE 


FIFE 


A  school  was  established  at  Cairn  Hill  by  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Morison,  who  endowed  it  with  a  house  and  garden  for 
the  master,  and  the  interest  of  £100.  The  poor  have 
the  proceeds  of  some  charitable  bequests,  among  which 
is  a  legacy  of  property  supposed  to  be  worth  £500,  by 
two  females  of  the  name  of  Duns.  There  are  Druidical 
remains  in  several  parts  of  the  parish.  Various  pieces 
of  ancient  armour,  chariot  wheels,  and  other  relics  have 
been  found  at  Kempstone  Hill,  the  supposed  field  of 
battle  between  the  Caledonians  under  Galgacus  and  the 
Romans  ;  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  camp  near  Stone- 
haven, sepulchral  urns  were  not  long  since  discovered. 
A  tumulus  on  the  lands  of  R.  W.  Duff,  Esq.,  is  said  to 
have  been  erected  over  the  remains  of  Malcolm  I.  ;  and 
at  no  great  distance  were  discovered,  in  1837,  a  skeleton, 
an  urn  about  twenty-eight  inches  in  circumference  and 
six  inches  in  depth,  and  more  than  100  jet  beads,  all  in 
a  tomb  about  three  feet  in  length  and  two  feet  wide. 
On  the  summit  of  a  rock  near  the  sea,  at  Cowie,  are 
some  remains  of  an  ancient  building  thought  to  have 
been  a  castle. 

FIARAY  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Barra,  county  of 
Inverness.  It  is  one  of  the  Hebrides,  lies  about  a  mile 
northward  of  Barra,  and  is  uninhabited. 

FIDREY  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Dirleton,  and 
county  of  Haddington.  This  is  a  small  and  beautiful 
island,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  about 
half  a  mile  distant  from  the  coast,  and  opposite  to  Dir- 
leton.  On  it  are  the  ruins  of  a  building,  an  ancient 
chapel,  or  a  lazaretto  for  the  sick,  which  was  dedicated 
to  St.  Nicholas. 

FIFE-KEITH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Keith, 
county  of  Banff;  containing  578  inhabitants.  This 
village  is  on  the  banks  of  the  Isla,  adjoining  to  and 
opposite  Old  Keith,  and  is  of  very  recent  origin,  having 
been  commenced  by  Lord  Fife,  from  whom  it  takes  its 
name,  about  IS  17.  It  is  connected,  by  two  bridges  over 
the  river,  with  Old  and  New  Keith,  the  three  places 
being  now  considered  as  one  town. — See  Keith. 

FIFESHIRE,  a  maritime  county  in  the  east  of  Scot- 
land, bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Tay,  on  the 
east  by  the  German  Ocean,  on  the  south  by  the  Frith 
of  Forth,  and  on  the  west  by  the  counties  of  Perth, 
Kinross,  and  Clackmannan.  It  lies  between  56°  3'  and 
56°  25'  (N.  Lat.)  and  2°  35'  and  3°  38'  (W.  Long.),  and 
is  about  4S  miles  in  length  and  18  in  extreme  breadth, 
comprising  an  area  of  504  square  miles,  or  322,560 
acres ;  30.54S  houses,  of  which  29,036  are  inhabited ; 
and  containing  a  population  of  140,140,  of  whom  65,715 
are  males,  and  74,425  females.  This  county  anciently 
formed  part  of  the  extensive  district  of  Ross,  which 
derived  its  name  from  its  peninsular  shape,  and  included 
the  present  counties  of  Kinross  and  Clackmannan,  with 
portions  of  the  counties  of  Perth  and  Stirling,  all  under 
one  common  jurisdiction.  The  lands  of  Clackmannan 
were  first  separated  from  this  district,  and  erected  into 
a  distinct  county;  and  subsequently,  iu  1425,  that  por- 
tion forming  the  head  of  the  peninsula  was  made  a 
county  under  the  appellation  of  Kinross.  The  remain- 
der, including  a  small  part  previously  belonging  to 
Perthshire,  almost  entirely  constitutes  the  modern 
county  of  Fife,  of  which  the  name  is  of  obscure  and 
doubtful  origin.  The  district,  originally  inhabited  by 
the  ancient  Caledonians,  became  subject  to  the  Romans, 
who  penetrated  into  its  most  secluded  retreats,  and 
427 


subsequently  to  the  Picts  ;  but  the  particular  details  of 
its  history  during  these  periods  are  not  distinctly 
recorded. 

After  the  subjugation  of  the  Picts,  and  the  union  of 
the  two  kingdoms  under  Kenneth  II.,  that  monarch, 
in  acknowledgment  of  the  eminent  services  rendered  to 
him  by  Macduff,  a  powerful  chieftain  who  had  contri- 
buted greatly  to  his  victory,  conferred  upon  him  all  the 
lands  he  had  conquered  from  the  Picts.  These  extended 
from  Fifeness  to  Clackmannan,  and  from  the  rivers  Tay 
and  Erne  on  the  north,  to  the  river  Forth  on  the  south  ; 
and  of  this  territory  the  king  also  appointed  him  here- 
ditary thane.  Though  occasionally  subject  to  Danish 
incursions,  the  district,  from  its  central  situation  be- 
tween the  northern  and  southern  divisions  of  the  king- 
dom, enjoyed  almost  undisturbed  tranquillity  under  its 
thanes,  of  whom  Duncan  Macduff,  having  aided  in  the 
destruction  of  the  usurper  Macbeth,  and  in  the  resto- 
ration of  Malcolm  Canmore,  was  created  Earl  of  Fife 
by  that  sovereign,  and  invested  with  many  privileges, 
which  were  made  hereditary  in  his  family.  Among 
these,  the  most  important  were,  the  placing  of  the  Scot- 
tish kings  in  the  chair  of  state  at  the  ceremony  of  their 
coronation,  the  honour  of  leading  the  van  of  the  royal 
army,  and  the  liberty  of  compromising  for  manslaugh- 
ter by  the  payment  of  a  fine  proportioned  to  the  rank 
of  the  victim.  This  last  immunity  was  commemorated 
by  the  erection  of  a  stone  pillar  called  Macduff's  cross, 
a  certain  area  around  which  afforded  sanctuary.  After 
the  death  of  Duncan,  the  twelfth  earl,  Murdoch,  Duke 
of  Albany,  by  marriage  with  his  only  daughter,  suc- 
ceeded to  the  earldom  of  Fife,  which,  on  his  attainder  in 
1425,  reverted  to  the  crown.  It  was  subsequently  re- 
vived as  an  Irish  peerage  in  the  person  of  William  Duff, 
of  Braco,  who  was  created  Baron  Braco  of  Kilbride,  and 
Earl  of  Fife,  iu  1759  ;  James,  the  second  earl,  was 
made  Baron  Fife  in  the  peerage  of  Great  Britain  in 
1790,  and  the  title  is  now  vested  in  his  descendant,  the 
present  earl. 

Prior  to  the  Reformation,  the  county  was  included  in 
the  archdiocese  of  St.  Andrew's  ;  it  is  at  present  in  the 
synod  of  Fife,  and  comprises  the  presbyteries  of  St. 
Andrew's,  Cupar,  Kirkcaldy,  and  Dunfermline,  and 
about  sixty  parishes.  The  shire  is  divided  into  the 
districts  of  Cupar,  Kirkcaldy,  St.  Andrew's,  and  Dun- 
fermline :  a  sheriff's  court  is  held  at  Cupar  for  the  three 
first-named,  and  one  at  Dunfermline  for  the  last-men- 
tioned district.  The  justices  of  the  peace  hold  petty 
sessions  in  all  the  districts,  their  decisions  being 
subject  to  revision  by  the  courts  of  quarter-sessions, 
which  are  held  at  Cupar,  the  county  town.  Besides  the 
county  town,  Fife  contains  the  royal  burghs  of  St.  An- 
drew's, Dunfermline,  Inverkeithing,  Burntisland,  Kirk- 
caldy, Kinghorn,  Pittenweem,  East  and  West  Anstru- 
ther,  Dysart,  Kilrenny,  Crail,  Auchtermuchty,  Falkland, 
and  Earlsferry  ;  the  towns  of  Leven,  Largo,  Limekilns, 
Pathhead,  Ferryport-on-Craig,  Newport,  Aberdour,  Mark- 
inch,  and  Newburgh,  with  numerous  smaller  towns 
and  villages.  Several  of  the  towns  have  been  royal 
residences,  and  many  of  them  are  sea-ports  with  tole- 
rable harbours  at  high-water  ;  but  the  best  harbour  is 
that  at  Burntisland,  where  a  pier  was  built  in  1S44,  at 
which  steamers  and  other  vessels  may  land  goods  and 
passengers  at  all  times  of  the  tide.  The  principal  port 
of  the  county  is  Kirkcaldy  :  at  Dysart  is  a  wet-dock,  in 

3  12 


FIFE 


FIFE 


which  vessels  are  always  afloat.  Under  the  act  of  the 
2nd  of  William  IV.,  Fife  returns  one  member  to  the 
imperial  parliament ;  and  there  are  also  two  districts 
of  burghs  within  the  county,  each  of  which  sends  a  re- 
presentative ;  while  Dunfermline  and  Inverkeithing  join 
with  Culross,  Stirling,  and  Queensferry,  in  sending 
another. 

The  surface  is  pleasingly  diversified  with  gentle  un- 
dulations, and  in  some  parts  with  hills  of  lofty  elevation; 
and  is  separated  by  ranges  of  hills  into  several  beautiful 
and  extensive  vales,  of  which  the  principal,  called  the 
Howe  of  Fife,  is  watered  by  the  river  Eden,  described 
below.  The  chief  hills  are,  the  East  and  West  Lomond, 
of  which  the  former  has  an  elevation  of  1260,  and  the 
latter  of  12S0  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  the  Largo 
Law,  1020  feet  in  height ;  and  the  Kelly  Law,  which 
is  S0O  feet.  Most  of  the  hills  are  covered  with  verdure 
almost  to  their  summit.  The  rivers  are,  the  Leven,  the 
Eden,  the  Orr,  and  the  Lochty  :  the  Leven  issues  from 
the  lake  of  that  name,  in  the  county  of  Kinross,  and, 
flowing  through  a  richly-cultivated  strath,  falls  into  the 
Frith  of  Forth  at  Leven.  The  Eden  has  its  source  in 
the  confluence  of  several  small  streams  in  the  parish  of 
Strathmiglo,  and,  taking  an  eastern  direction,  runs  by 
the  town  of  Cupar,  and  joins  the  German  Ocean  at  St. 
Andrew's  bay.  The  river  Orr  rises  in  a  lake  now 
drained,  and,  pursuing  a  south-eastern  course,  in  which 
it  is  joined  by  streams  from  Loch  Fittie  and  Loch  Gellie, 
and  by  the  Lochty,  flows  into  the  Leven  near  Cameron 
Bridge.  The  principal  lakes  are,  Loch  Lindores,  about 
a  mile  in  length,  and  varying  in  breadth,  abounding  with 
pike  and  perch,  and  beautifully  situated  in  a  richly- 
wooded  spot ;  Loch  Kilconquhar,  in  the  parish  of  that 
name,  about  two  miles  in  circumference;  Loch  Gellie, 
three  miles  round  ;  and  Kinghorn  loch,  a  natural  reser- 
voir situated  near  that  town,  which  supplies  the  mills 
with  water. 

The  soil  is  exceedingly  various  ;  along  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  a  deep  rich  loam  alternated  with  clay  and  gravel ; 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Eden,  along  the  shore  north- 
ward, a  fine  light,  dry,  and  sandy  soil ;  to  the  south 
of  the  Eden,  of  inferior  quality.  West  of  St.  Andrew's 
are  tracts  of  moor  and  moss,  with  some  intervening 
portions  of  fertile  land  ;  towards  the  river  Tay,  a  rich 
soil,  resting  on  whin  rock  ;  and  on  the  slopes  of  the 
hills,  a  productive  clay,  with  loam  and  gravel.  The 
system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  highly  improved  state  ;  the 
extent  of  the  farms  varies  from  fifty  or  sixty  to  400  or 
500  acres  ;  the  buildings  are  generally  substantial  and 
well  arranged,  and  on  most  of  the  farms  are  threshing- 
mills,  of  which  some  are  driven  by  steam.  The  lands 
have  been  drained,  and  are  inclosed  with  walls  of  stone, 
or  hedges  of  hawthorn.  The  chief  crops  are,  oats, 
wheat,  barley,  turnips,  and  potatoes ;  much  attention 
is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  cattle,  and  the  number  of  sheep 
is  exceedingly  great.  The  number  of  horses  employed 
in  agriculture,  in  1844,  was  S158,  and  otherwise,  2466  : 
occasionally,  numbers  of  pigs  are  fed.  The  planta- 
tions are  very  extensive,  but  chiefly  of  modern  growth: 
on  the  lands  of  the  Earl  of  Leven  is  a  forest  of  Scotch 
firs,  several  miles  in  length ;  but  little  ancient  timber  is 
found  except  in  the  grounds  of  some  of  the  principal 
mansions.  The  prevailing  substrata  are  coal  and  lime- 
stone, both  of  which  are  of  good  quality,  and  largely 
wrought.  Freestone  of  different  colours,  from  a  dark 
428 


red  to  a  beautiful  white,  of  compact  texture,  and  sus- 
ceptible of  a  high  polish,  is  also  abundant ;  and  in  the 
northern  districts,  whinstone,  of  which  the  rocks  prin- 
cipally consist,  is  predominant,  and  of  excellent  quality 
for  the  roads.  Ironstone  is  found  in  various  parts  ;  in 
some  places  in  seams  too  thin  to  remunerate  the  labour 
of  working  it ;  in  others  in  veins  of  greater  extent, 
and  yielding  from  thirty-three  to  forty  per  cent,  of 
ore,  wrought  for  the  Carron  Iron  Company.  Lead  and 
copper  have  been  found  in  several  places  ;  the  former, 
principally  in  the  Lomond  hills,  has  been  wrought,  but 
not  with  any  profitable  result,  and  the  works  have  been 
discontinued.  The  seats  are,  Falkland  House,  Leslie 
House,  Melville  House,  Crawford  Priory,  Donibristle, 
Balcarras,  Broomhall,  Dunnikeir  House,  Raith,  Wemyss 
Castle,  Balcaskie,  Bethune,  Balbirnie,  Craigsanquhar, 
Dysart  House,  Elie  House,  Pitmilly,  Dunbog,  Rankeillor, 
Lathrisk,  Pitferran,  Torry,  Inchdairny,  Strathendry, 
Mugdrum,  Rossie,  Pittencrieff,  Largo  House,  Newton- 
Collessie,  Durie,  Innergelly,  Mount  Melville,  Kelly 
House,  Cambo,  Scotscraig,  Fordel,  Balgarvie,  Lochore, 
St.  Fort,  Kemback,  Fernie,  Kilconquhar,  Charlton,  Kil- 
maron,  and  others.  These  mansions  are  for  the  most 
part  handsomely  built,  and,  with  their  surrounding 
grounds,  form  a  striking  feature  in  the  scenery. 

The  principal  manufacture  is  that  of  linen,  which  is 
carried  on  throughout  the  county ;  the  fabrics  are, 
damasks,  diapers,  Osnaburghs,  Silesias,  and  the  plainer 
kinds  of  brown  linens,  ticking,  checks,  and  sail-cloth, 
which  are  made  in  most  of  the  villages.  The  spinning 
of  flax  is  carried  on  to  a  great  extent ;  and  at  Dunferm- 
line, Kinghorn,  Abbotshall,  Leven,  and  other  places,  are 
large  mills  for  the  purpose.  The  manufacture  of  paper, 
soap,  candles,  and  glue,  is  also  extensive  ;  and  there  are 
several  iron-founderies,  tanneries,  potteries,  brick  and 
tile  works,  numerous  bleachfields  on  the  Leven,  a  vi- 
triol-work, breweries,  distilleries,  malting  establishments 
on  a  very  large  scale,  and  various  other  works.  Ship- 
building is  carried  on  at  the  several  sea-port  towns 
on  the  south.  The  commerce  of  the  county  con- 
sists chiefly  in  the  export  of  cattle  and  sheep,  grain, 
potatoes,  and  other  agricultural  produce,  coal,  lime- 
stone, and  lime  ;  and  in  the  importation  of  timber, 
bark,  hides,  tallow,  flax,  hemp,  tar,  iron,  slates,  groce- 
ries, and  other  articles.  Facility  of  communication  is 
afforded  by  good  roads  ;  at  Newport  is  a  commodious 
ferry  across  the  Tay  to  Dundee,  and  steam-boats  ply 
daily  from  Largo,  Leven,  and  Dysart,  to  Mid  Lothian. 
There  are  two  ferries,  also,  of  great  importance  across 
the  Forth ;  one  connecting  Burntisland,  in  Fife,  with 
Granton  ;  and  the  other,  higher  up  the  Frith,  connect- 
ing North  and  South  Queensferry.  The  total  annual 
value  of  real  property  in  the  county,  assessed  to  the 
Income  tax  for  the  year  1S42,  was  £50S,923,  of  which 
amount  £3S1,572  were  for  lands,  £74,654  for  houses, 
£22,564  for  mines,  £4797  for  quarries,  £1159  for  fish- 
eries, and  the  remainder  for  other  kinds  of  property  not 
comprised  in  the  foregoing  items.  There  are  numerous 
remains  of  antiquity,  among  which  are  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  abbey  and  palace  of  Dunfermline,  the  abbey  of 
Lindores,  the  palace  of  Falkland,  the  tower  and  chapel 
of  St.  Regulus,  Cardinal  Bethune's  Castle,  the  Castle  of 
Macduff,  the  Castle  of  Ravenscraig,  Rosythe  Castle,  and 
the  Castle  of  Lochore,  with  various  others,  which  are 
noticed  in  articles  on  the  places  where  they  are  situated. 


FIND 


FIND 


FILLAN'S,  ST.,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Comrie, 
county  of  Perth  ;  containing  1*2  inhabitants.  It  is  a 
beautiful  and  romantic  place,  situated  on  the  north 
side  of  Loch  Earn,  and  consists  of  a  number  of  well- 
built  houses,  rendered  of  pleasing  appearance  by  shrub- 
beries in  front.  Here  was  established  some  years  since 
the  St.  Fillan's  Society,  holding  annual  meetings  for  the 
encouragement  of  Highland  games  and  dress.  A  school 
is  supported  by  Lord  Willoughby  de  Eresby,  who  allows 
the  teacher  a  salary  of  £20,  and  a  dwelling-house  and 
garden.  On  the  summit  of  Dun-Fillan  hill  is  a  rock 
known  as  St.  Fillan's  Chair,  and  two  small  cavities  are 
said  to  have  been  made  by  the  saint,  the  impression  of 
his  knees  from  his  constant  habit  of  prayer. 

FINAVON,  or  Finhaven,  Forfar. — See  Oathlaw. 

FIND  HORN,  a  burgh  and  sea-port  town,  in  the 
parish  of  Kixloss,  county  of  Elgin,  4  miles  (N.  by  E.) 
from  Forres  ;  containing  S06  inhabitants.  This  place,  the 
name  of  which  signifies  "the  mouth  of  the  Erne,"  stands 
on  the  northern  boundary  of  the  county,  and  near  the 
river  Erne,  or  Findhorn,  which  expands  into  a  capa- 
cious bay  called  Loch  Findhorn,  on  the  west  of  the 
town,  and  communicates  by  a  narrow  strait  with  the 
Moray  Frith.  It  is  a  burgh  of  barony,  the  sea-port  of 
Forres,  and  the  property  of  H.  A.  I.  Munro,  Esq. ;  it 
is  inhabited  chiefly  by  fishermen,  seafaring  persons, 
and  a  few  merchants  and  tradespeople,  and  is  the  seat 
of  a  very  considerable  traffic.  This  is  the  third  town 
of  the  same  name,  the  first,  which  stood  about  a  mile 
west  of  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbour,  and  the 
second,  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  present  town,  having 
both  been  washed  away  by  the  sea.  Even  now,  only  a 
small  space,  containing  a  broken  bank  of  sand,  inter- 
venes between  the  tide-mark  and  the  north  end  of  the 
town,  forming  the  sole  rampart  against  the  tremendous 
swell  occasioned  by  north-easterly  winds  ;  and  this  is 
sometimes  so  torn  and  drifted  by  hurricanes,  that  the 
sand  covers  the  streets  and  gardens  to  the  depth  of 
ten  or  twelve  feet,  threatening  the  town  with  destruc- 
tion at  no  distant  period.  The  river,  affording  fine 
trout-angling,  and  famed  for  its  romantic  scenery,  rises 
in  the  mountains  near  Badenoch,  and,  after  a  serpentine 
and  impetuous  course  of  about  sixty  miles  from  the 
south-west,  through  the  counties  of  Inverness,  Nairn, 
and  Elgin,  often  carrying,  in  rainy  seasons,  desolation 
to  the  neighbouring  crops,  expands  into  the  bay  already 
referred  to,  and  joins  the  Frith. 

Findhorn  is  one  of  the  safest  harbours  on  the  coast ; 
it  measures  in  length,  from  the  bar  at  the  north  to  its 
southern  limit,  three  and  a  half  miles,  the  breadth  vary- 
ing from  a  little  more  than  half  a  mile  to  two  miles. 
There  are  two  quays  of  hewn  stone,  one  of  which  was 
recently  erected  with  a  breast-work,  by  which  it  is 
joined  to  the  old  pier,  at  an  expense  of  upwards  of 
£1300;  superior  accommodation  is  afforded  for  ship- 
ping, and  the  depth  of  water  in  the  channel,  where  most 
shallow,  is  ten  and  a  half  feet  at  the  lowest  neap  tide,  and 
from  thirteen  to  seventeen  at  high  tide.  A  considerable 
part  of  the  bay  is  dry  at  low  water ;  but  the  river,  in 
some  places  half  a  mile  broad,  has,  at  the  lowest  ebb  of 
stream  tides,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  of  water,  in 
which  the  largest  vessels  can  float  in  safety.  The  earth 
and  sand  bank  at  the  entrance,  called  the  bar,  and  by 
some  supposed  to  be  a  portion  of  the  land  encroached 
upon  by  the  sea,  would  prove  dangerous  from  its  shif't- 
429 


ing  with  strong  floods  or  easterly  winds  ;  but  the  pilots 
understand  its  nature  so  well,  that  an  accident  is 
scarcely  ever  heard  of.  The  fisheries  pursued  are  those 
of  salmon,  herrings,  and  haddock,  which  are  carried  on 
with  great  spirit,  and  prove  a  source  of  considerable 
emolument  to  the  proprietors  :  about  sixty  men  are 
engaged,  who  follow  their  avocation  in  large  boats 
carrying  several  persons  and  from  eight  to  ten  tons' 
weight  of  fish.  The  salmon-fishery  produces  annu- 
ally, on  an  average,  about  six  hundred  boxes  of  fish, 
each  valued  at  £5,  and  sent,  packed  in  ice,  to  the 
London  market :  the  herring-fishery,  which  has  been 
carried  on  for  above  twenty  years,  has  for  a  long  time 
supplied  20,000  barrels  every  year ;  and  the  haddock- 
fishery  is  valued  at  £2000.  There  are  twelve  vessels 
belonging  to  the  port,  together  registered  at  1000 
tons,  and  occupied  in  an  extensive  coasting-trade.  The 
imports  comprise  great  quantities  of  Sunderland  and 
Newcastle  coal,  and  lime  from  the  same  places ;  coal 
from  the  Frith  of  Forth,  slates  from  Ballichulish,  iron 
from  Wales  and  Staffordshire,  salt  from  Liverpool,  and 
large  supplies  of  bone-dust  for  manure.  The  exports 
for  provincial  use  consist  of  herrings,  grain,  eggs,  and 
about  2000  loads  of  timber  every  year  from  the  forests 
of  Darnaway  and  Altyre.  The  port  is  also  visited  by 
foreign  vessels,  bringing  iron,  timber,  and  tar  from 
the  Baltic,  and  timber  from  British  North  America  ; 
and  there  are  regular  trading  smacks  from  London, 
Leith,  and  Liverpool,  with  cargoes  for  Forres,  Elgin, 
and  Nairn.  A  very  good  turnpike-road  runs  from 
Findhorn  to  Forres,  between  which  places  there  is  a 
daily  post  ;  and  from  this  road  a  branch  diverges  at  the 
bridge  of  Kinloss,  eastward  to  Burgh-Head  and  Elgin. 
Fairs  are  held  in  the  town  for  the  sale  of  sheep,  black- 
cattle,  and  horses,  on  the  second  Wednesday  in  March, 
July,  and  October,  O.  S.  An  Assembly's  school  was  till 
lately  supported,  the  master  of  which  had  a  salary  of 
£20,  and  about  £12  fees,  with  an  allowance  of  £10 
from  Mr.  Munro,  of  Novar,  in  lieu  of  land  and  other 
accommodations  :  a  school-room  and  a  house  for  the 
master  were  built  a  few  years  since,  at  a  cost  of  £  1 60, 
raised  by  subscription  and  public  collections.  This 
school  is  now  maintained  from  the  funds  of  the  Free 
Church,  and  is  in  strict  connexion  with  it. 

FINDOCHTY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Rathven, 
county  of  Banff,  2|  miles  (N.  E.  by  E.)  from  Buckie  ; 
containing  414  inhabitants.  This  is  a  fishing-village  on 
the  coast  of  the  Moray  Frith,  a  short  distance  from  Fin- 
dochty  point,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  north-east  of  Rath- 
ven. It  was  founded  in  1716,  on  the  property  of  the 
then  Earl  of  Findlater.  The  fishery  here  is  very  exten- 
sive, affording  employment  to  nearly  the  whole  of  the 
male  population,  whose  reputation  for  the  superior  cure 
of  herrings  and  other  fish  has  been  maintained  for 
upwards  of  a  century.  About  forty  boats,  chiefly  of  the 
larger  size,  belong  to  the  place. 

FINDOGASK,  Perth.— See  Cask,  Nether. 

FINDON,  or  Finnan,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Banchory-Devenick,  county  of  Kincardine,  6J  miles 
(S.  by  W.)  from  Aberdeen;  containing  190  inhabitants. 
This  is  a  fishing-village,  situated  on  the  eastern  coast, 
near  Girdleness,  and  having  a  small  harbour;  it  is  cele- 
brated for  the  finely-flavoured  fish  called  the  "  Finnan 
haddock,"  which  are  caught  here,  and  cured  in  a  pecu- 
liar manner,  by  the  smoke  of  peat.     So  delicate  is  this 


F  I  NT 


FI  NT 


fish  that  it  can  ravely  be  sold  fresh,  in  an  undepreciated 
condition,  at  the  distance  of  Edinburgh.  Several  boats, 
and  a  large  portion  of  the  inabitants,  are  engaged  in  the 
fishery,  and,  in  the  summer  season,  in  that  of  herrings 
in  the  Moray  Frith. 

FINNIESTON,  a  village  and  western  suburb,  within 
the  jurisdiction  of  the  city  of  Glasgow,  county  of  La- 
nark ;  containing  2096  inhabitants.  This  place,  which 
forms  part  of  Anderston,  was  commenced  by  the  foun- 
der of  that  district  on  a  plan  laid  down  by  his  chaplain, 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Finnie,  from  whom  it  derived  its  name; 
it  consists  of  several  streets,  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles.  The  houses  are  well  built,  with  garden 
ground  attached  to  each,  and  stretch  northward  from, 
the  banks  of  the  Clyde,  on  which  are  some  handsome 
villas,  occupied  by  the  opulent  merchants  and  manufac- 
turers of  the  city,  and  which,  from  their  elevated  site, 
command  pleasingly  interesting  views.  In  the  village 
is  a  spacious  manufactory  of  cut-glass,  in  which  many 
articles  of  the  most  elegant  and  brilliant  quality  are 
produced.  To  the  east  of  this  place  are  Grahamston 
and  Brownfield,  formerly  distinguished  as  detached 
suburban  villages,  but  now  forming  an  integral  part  of 
the  city. 

FINNYFOLD,  Aberdeen.  — See  Whinnie-Fatjld. 

FINTRAY,  a  parish,  in  the  district  and  county  of 
Aberdeen,  2§  miles  (E.)  from  Kintore ;  containing 
1032  inhabitants.  This  place  is  said  to  have  derived  its 
name  from  a  Gaelic  term  signifying  "  the  fair  bank  or 
boundary  of  the  river."  It  was  formerly  celebrated  for 
its  abbey,  nothing  of  which  now  remains  but  the  foun- 
dations ;  it  was  called  the  Northern  Abbey  of  Lindores, 
and  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected  in  13S6,  that 
date  having  been  found  upon  a  stone  thought  to  have 
been,  on  account  of  the  situation  in  which  it  was  dis- 
covered, a  part  of  the  ancient  building.  The  parish 
is  in  that  part  of  Aberdeenshire  called  Formartin,  and 
stretches  from  five  to  six  miles  along  the  bank  of  the 
river  Don  ;  it  is  from  three  to  four  miles  in  breadth, 
and  contains  6500  acres.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north 
and  west  by  the  parish  of  Keith-Hall ;  on  the  south  by 
the  Don,  which  separates  it  from  the  parishes  of  Dyce, 
Kinellar,  and  Kintore  ;  and  on  the  east  by  New  Machar. 
The  ground  rises  gradually  towards  the  north  to  the 
height  of  about  300  feet,  after  which  it  forms  an  easy 
declivity.  The  violent  and  destructive  floods  of  the 
river,  which  runs  from  west  to  east,  and  falls  into  the 
sea  near  Old  Aberdeen,  are  among  the  most  remark- 
able events  of  modern  times  connected  with  the  history 
of  the  parish  :  the  first  of  which  account  was  taken  hap- 
pened in  1768,  at  harvest  time,  and  carried  away  the 
larger  part  of  the  crops  from  the  lower  grounds,  just  as 
it  was  ready  to  be  laid  up  in  stacks.  Another  inunda- 
tion took  place  in  August,  1*99,  and,  in  addition  to  a 
considerable  quantity  of  hay,  swept  away  much  grain  then 
standing  uncut.  A  still  more  violent  flood  occurred  on 
Aug.  4,  1829,  desolating  to  a  great  extent  the  property 
of  several  individuals ;  the  water  rose  about  fourteen 
feet  above  its  ordinary  level,  and  nearly  eighteen  inches 
higher  than  it  had  done  in  any  former  case  in  memory. 
Good  embankments,  however,  have  been  constructed  ; 
and  at  Fintray  and  Wester  Fintray,  about  300  acres  of 
land  of  very  fine  quality  are  now  protected. 

The  soil  varies  considerably ;   in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  river  is  a  deep,  rich,  alluvial  mould,  while  at  some 
430 


distance  inward  the  soil  is  much  lighter.  On  the  higher 
land  it  is  poor,  consisting  chiefly  of  peat-moss  and  moor  ; 
but  in  the  northern  quarter  it  improves  in  quality,  and 
rewards  the  labour  of  good  cultivation.  There  are  from. 
5000  to  6000  acres  cultivated,  or  occasionally  in  tillage  ; 
about  S00  are  pasture  or  waste ;  and  between  600  and 
700  under  wood.  The  produce  is  oats,  peas,  hay,  pota- 
toes, sometimes  a  little  barley,  and  large  quantities  of 
turnips,  to  the  growth  of  which  the  soil  is  well  adapted. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £4130.  The 
cattle  are  of  the  Aberdeenshire  breed,  many  of  which 
are  fed  and  fattened,  and  the  horses  are  of  superior 
quality  :  a  few  sheep  only  are  reared,  and  these  chiefly 
for  gentlemen's  pleasure-grounds.  The  improvements 
in  draining,  inclosing,  and  embanking  have  been  con- 
siderable within  the  last  few  years  ;  and  the  farm-houses 
and  offices  are  in  a  far  better  condition  than  formerly. 
The  plantations  are  in  a  flourishing  state.  The  prevail- 
ing rock  is  granite,  which  is  found  in  large  quantities, 
and  of  superior  quality  ;  limestone  may  also  be  obtained, 
but  fuel  is  too  scarce  to  admit  of  the  necessary  process 
for  converting  it  into  lime.  There  is  a  good  residence, 
built  in  the  cottage  style,  upon  the  lands  of  Disblair ; 
but  the  chief  mansion  is  Fintray  House,  a  large  and 
excellent  edifice  lately  erected  by  the  chief  proprietor 
of  the  parish. 

The  manufacture  of  fine  woollen-cloth  is  pursued  at 
Cothal  mills,  established  in  1798,  and  regularly  carried 
on  since  that  period  :  it  produces  about  8000  yards  per 
month.  The  recent  introduction  of  the  manufacture  of 
Tweed  plaid  has  enabled  the  proprietor  to  employ  a 
considerably  larger  number  of  hands  than  formerly,  to 
meet  the  call  for  an  extensive  supply  of  this  article,  to 
the  production  of  which  his  works  are  particularly 
adapted.  The  inhabitants  of  the  parish  are,  however, 
chiefly  engaged  in  husbandry.  There  are  well-con- 
structed commutation  roads  passing  in  all  directions 
through  the  parish.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  sub- 
ject to  the  presbytery  of  Aberdeen  and  synod  of  Aber- 
deen, and  the  patronage  is  vested  in  Sir  John  Forbes, 
Bart.  :  the  stipend  is  £217,  with  a  manse,  built  in  1S04, 
and  a  glebe  of  the  annual  value  of  £10.  The  church, 
which  is  a  commodious  and  substantial  building,  was 
erected  in  1821,  and  has  500  sittings,  all  free.  There  is 
a  parochial  school,  in  which  Latin  and  mathematics  are 
taught,  with  the  usual  branches  of  education ;  the  mas- 
ter has  a  salary  of  £28,  with  about  £23  fees,  a  portion 
of  the  Dick  bequest,  a  house,  and  a  quarter  of  an  acre 
of  garden-ground.  Another  school  is  open,  in  which 
the  instruction  is  of  the  same  kind  as  in  the  parochial 
school ;  the  master  receives  the  interest  of  £200  left  by 
the  Rev.  Dr.  Morison,  of  Disblair,  with  fees,  an  allow- 
ance from  the  Dick  bequest,  and  a  house  and  garden. 
A  silver  cup  is  still  in  possession  of  the  minister,  having 
the  date  of  1632,  and  believed  to  have  been  cast  from  a 
silver  head  of  St.  Meddan,  who  was  the  tutelar  saint  of 
the  parish  ;  it  is  reported  to  have  been  carried  in  proces- 
sion, on  account  of  its  magical  virtues  in  procuring 
suitable  weather  for  the  purposes  of  agriculture.  • 

FINTRY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Stirling, 
17  miles  (N.)  from  Glasgow  ;  containing,  with  the  vil- 
lages of  Gonochan  and  Newtown,  and  the  Clachan, 
8S4  inhabitants.  This  parish  is  said  to  have  derived 
its  name  from  Gaelic  terms  signifying  "  Fair  land,"  and 
applied  in  consequence  of  the  picturesque  appearance  of 


FI  NT 


F  I  11  T 


parts  of  the  district,  in  contrast  with  the  dreary  moors 
and  barren  mountains  by  which  they  are  surrounded. 
It  is  of  an  irregular  form,  extending  about  six  miles  in 
length,  from  east  to  west,  and  five  in  breadth ;  and 
comprises  13,000  acres,  of  which  1000  are  arable,  100 
under  wood  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  hill 
and  moor  pasture,  chiefly  laid  out  in  large  sheep-farms. 
The  surface,  which  embraces  some  of  the  highest  ground 
between  the  Friths  of  Clyde  and  Forth,  is  considerably 
diversified,  and  marked  principally  by  three  ranges  of 
hills,  and  two  intermediate,  and  beautifully  rural  and 
fertile  valleys.  The  ranges  of  hills  are,  the  Fintry  hills, 
on  the  north ;  a  continuation  of  the  Killearu  line, 
traversing  the  middle  of  the  parish,  and  uniting  with 
the  Dundaff  range,  on  the  west,  in  St.  Ninian's  parish  ; 
and  a  southern  chain,  continued  from  the  Campsie  Fells 
and  the  Meikle  Binn.  These  elevations  are  rich  in 
fern,  moss,  and  lichen,  and  in  the  various  valuable 
botanical  specimens  peculiar  to  such  localities ;  the 
moors  abound  with  grouse  and  a  variety  of  wild-fowl. 
The  chief  rivers  are  the  Carron  and  the  Endrick,  both 
of  which  rise  in  the  parish,  and,  watering  the  two  val- 
leys already  referred  to,  contribute  materially  to  enliven 
their  delightful  scenery.  The  Carron,  celebrated  in 
song,  running  by  the  margin  of  the  Campsie  hills,  forms 
the  boundary  line,  for  the  distance  of  about  two  miles, 
between  Fintry  and  the  parish  of  Campsie,  after  which, 
leaving  the  valley,  it  enters  a  new  district,  and  eventually 
empties  itself  into  the  Forth.  The  Endrick,  which 
'receives  a  considerable  accession  to  its  waters  by  the 
junction  of  the  Gonochan  burn,  is  a  bold  and  preci- 
pitous stream,  passing  with  great  noise,  in  some  places, 
along  its  rocky  and  rugged  channel,  and  exhibiting  a 
magnificent  cascade  in  its  progress  over  a  lofty  rock, 
commonly  called  the  "Loup  of  Fintry,"  ninety  feet  in 
height ;  it  loses  itself  at  last  in  Loch  Lomond.  Both 
these  rivers  are  well  stocked  with  trout ;  and  in  the 
latter,  below  the  waterfall,  a  species  called  par  is  ex- 
ceedingly numerous,  and  affords  fine  sport  to  the  lovers 
of  angling. 

The  soil  is  in  general  productive ;  and  oats  and 
barley,  which  are  the  staple  crops,  are  raised  of  very 
excellent  quality,  together  with  hay,  a  great  quantity  of 
which  is  obtained  from  an  extensive  tract  called  the 
Carron  bog,  situated  near  the  river  of  the  same  name. 
The  fine  sheep-walks,  however,  formed  of  many  small 
farms  broken  up  several  years  ago,  and  upon  which 
large  numbers  of  live  stock  range,  confer  on  the  parish 
its  chief  character,  and  are  the  principal  source  of 
wealth  to  the  landowner.  About  4000  sheep  are  usually 
kept,  and  nearly  1000  head  of  cattle,  besides  a  good 
supply  of  Ayrshire  cows  for  the  dairy,  the  produce  of 
which  is  of  superior  quality,  and  is  disposed  of  in  the 
neighbouring  towns  and  villages.  Open  drains  are 
frequently  cut  along  the  margin  of  the  hills,  to  the 
great  advantage  of  the  pastures  ;  and  several  excellent 
farm-houses,  with  offices,  have  been  built  in  different 
parts  of  the  parish  within  these  few  years.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  Fintry  is  £4610.  The  rocks  are 
of  several  kinds,  and  become  so  prominent  in  the 
northern  chain  of  hills  as  to  invest  the  scenery  with  a 
character  of  singular  variety  and  grandeur;  they  chiefly 
comprise  granite,  whinstone,  freestone,  and  redstone, 
here  called  firestone,  and  in  the  north-western  portion 
of  the  parish  is  a  hill  called  Doun,  formed  partly 
431 


of  a  perpendicular  rock  about  fifty  feet  in  height,  dis- 
tributed into  numerous  beautiful  basaltic  columns. 
Small  quantities  of  coal  are  also  found  in  different 
places.  The  plantations,  some  of  which  are  recent, 
consist  of  various  sorts  of  fir,  oak,  beech,  &c. ;  and  en- 
compassing Culcreuch  House,  an  ancient  mansion  with 
modern  additions,  situated  in  the  north-west,  is  an 
extensive  sweep  of  fine  old  timber. 

The  chief  village,  designated  Newtown,  was  built  to 
accommodate  the  population  that  sprang  up  in  conse- 
quence of  the  erection  of  a  cotton-factory  by  the  late 
Mr.  Speirs,  nearly  fifty  years  since;  it  is  situated  in  the 
western  part  of  the  parish.  The  establishment  contains 
20,000  spindles,  and  employs  about  260  hands,  the 
machinery  being  partly  driven  by  the  water  of  the  river 
Endrick,  collected  for  that  purpose  in  a  reservoir 
covering  about  thirty  acres.  The  intercourse  kept  up 
with  Glasgow  by  the  conveyance  of  the  raw  material 
and  the  manufactured  goods,  is  said  to  have  been  the 
occasion  of  a  material  improvement  in  the  state  of  the 
roads,  and  to  have  opened  a  larger  market  for  the  sale 
of  the  farm  produce.  The  village,  the  population  of 
which  exceeds  500,  also  contains  a  distillery,  erected  in 
1816,  and  producing  annually  70,000  gallons  of  malt 
whisky.  There  are  likewise  two  hamlets,  one  called 
Clachan,  and  the  other  Gonachan,  in  the  former  of 
which  are  the  church  and  manse,  and  in  the  latter  the 
parochial  school,  and  near  it  a  small  wool-factory.  The 
numerous  lambs  bred  here  are  generally  sent  for  sale 
to  Glasgow,  with  a  part  of  the  dairy  produce,  the  other 
part  being  disposed  of  at  Campsie  and  Kirkintilloch  ; 
the  black-cattle  are  sold  at  Falkirk.  The  parish  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Dumbarton  and  synod  of  Glasgow 
and  Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Duke  of  Montrose  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £155,  with  a  manse,  lately 
rebuilt,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £22  per  annum.  The 
church  is  a  neat  structure  with  a  tower  at  the  west 
end,  built  in  1823,  and  contains  500  sittings.  The 
master  of  the  parochial  school  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with 
about  £20  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  Another 
school  has  lately  been  opened  in  the  village,  chiefly  for 
the  benefit  of  the  children  of  those  employed  in  the 
factor}';  about  100  attend  in  the  day-time,  and  fifty 
or  sixty  in  the  evening.  The  premises,  which  are  spa- 
cious, and  comprise  a  house  for  the  master,  were 
erected  in  consequence  of  a  legacy  of  £3000  for  that 
purpose  by  Mr.  John  Stewart,  a  merchant  of  Fintry, 
who  died  in  1S36,  and  who  also  left  £500  to  form  a 
fund  for  a  savings'  bank  in  the  parish.  There  is  a 
small  subscription  library,  which  has  been  established 
several  years.  The  only  relic  of  antiquity  is  the  ruin 
of  an  ancient  castle,  with  a  fosse  and  mound,  the  former 
residence  of  the  Grahams,  of  Fintry  ;  it  stood  on  the 
south  side  of  Fintry  hill,  opposite  Sir  John  de  Graham's 
castle  in  the  parish  of  St.  Ninian's,  which  was  burnt 
down  by  Edward  I.  after  the  battle  of  Falkirk.  The 
parish  confers  the  title  of  Baron  on  the  Duke  of 
Montrose. 

FIRTH  and  STENNESS,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Orkney,  the  former  district  6  miles  (W.  by  N.)  and  the 
latter  S  miles  (W.)  from  Kirkwall;  containing  1167 
inhabitants,  of  whom  5S4  are  in  Firth.  These  ancient 
parishes,  which  appear  to  have  been  united  soon  after 
the  abolition  of  episcopacy  in  Scotland,  are  situated  on 
the  Mainland  of  the  Orkney  Islands,  and  are  bounded 


FI  RT 


FLAN 


on  the  north  by  the  parishes  of  Harray  and  Rendall,  on 
the  east  by  the  parish  of  Kirkwall,  on  the  south  by 
that  of  Orphir,  and  on  the  west  by  the  parishes  of  Sand- 
wick  and  Stromness.  The  coast,  including  the  small 
island  of  Damsay  and  the  holm  of  Grimbister,  detached 
portions  of  Firth,  lying  in  the  bay  of  that  name,  is 
about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  the  shores  low  and  flat, 
with  few  or  no  headlands  of  importance.  The  bay  of 
Firth  abounds  with  fish  of  various  kinds  ;  and  oysters 
of  large  size,  and  of  excellent  quality,  are  found  in 
considerable  numbers.  The  island  of  Damsay,  more 
than  a  mile  in  circumference,  is  extremely  beautiful ; 
its  surface  is  covered  with  verdure,  affording  luxuriant 
pasture  for  sheep,  of  which  a  few  hundreds  of  superior 
breed  are  kept  within  its  limits.  On  this  island  was 
anciently  a  castle,  which  at  that  time  was  regarded 
as  a  place  of  much  strength ;  and  there  was  subse- 
quently a  church  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  of  which, 
however,  little  more  than  the  site  remains. 

The  parish  is  about  nine  miles  in  extreme  length,  and 
varies  greatly  in  breadth  :  the  number  of  acres,  from 
the  great  irregularity  of  form,  has  not  been  ascertained. 
The  surface  is  broken  by  numerous  ridges  of  hilly  moor- 
land, covered  with  heath  and  moss  to  the  very  summit ; 
the  soil  near  the  shore  is  a  deep  mossy  loam,  and  in 
other  parts  shallow.  There  are  some  portions  of  arable 
land  in  good  cultivation,  yielding  tolerable  crops,  and 
some  fields  of  rich  pasture  near  the  borders  of  the  loch 
of  Stenness,  and  in  parts  of  Firth  ;  but  in  general  little 
improvement  has  been  made  in  agriculture.  The  loch 
of  Stenness,  to  the  north-west,  is  a  noble  sheet  of  water 
nearly  five  miles  in  length,  and  divided  almost  into  two 
separate  lakes  by  the  projection  of  a  strip  of  land  from 
the  north-west  to  the  bridge  of  Broigar.  In  that  por- 
tion of  the  lake  which  is  bounded  by  the  parish  of 
Harray  on  the  east,  are  numerous  small  holms,  fre- 
quented by  great  numbers  of  aquatic  fowl  of  various 
kinds  ;  and  the  shores  are  embellished  with  fields  of 
natural  grass,  alternated  with  others  of  highly-cultivated 
land,  and  studded  with  neat  houses  belonging  to  the 
proprietors  of  small  farms  that  acknowledge  no  superior 
landlord.  On  the  peninsula  dividing  the  lake  are  the 
celebrated  stones  of  Stenness,  one  of  the  most  extensive 
and  complete  Druidical  relics  in  the'  count}',  consisting 
of  a  circle,  nearly  entire,  of  massive  and  lofty  columns, 
beyond  which  are  a  semicircle,  with  several  single  stones 
irregularly  placed,  and  numerous  cairns.  Burness,  a 
seat  in  the  parish,  is  a  handsome  mansion  finely  situated 
on  the  shore  of  the  bay  of  Firth.  There  is  but  one 
village,  namely  that  designated  Phinstown,  seated  at 
the  western  extremity  of  the  bay  :  the  platting  of  straw 
affords  employment  to  part  of  the  females,  who  work 
at  their  own  homes  for  the  manufacturers  of  Kirkwall 
and  Stromness.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Cairston  and 
synod  of  Orkney.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £158,  of 
which  part  is  paid  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse, 
and  two  glebes  valued  together  at  £27  per  annum ; 
patron,  the  Earl  of  Zetland.  There  are  two  churches, 
that  of  Firth,  built  in  1313,  and  the  church  of  Stenness, 
in  1793,  and  repaired  and  reseated  in  1816;  they  are 
both  neat  structures,  and  contain  each  about  700  sit- 
tings. Divine  service  is  performed  in  each  regularly 
every  Sunday.  The  whole  of  the  services  were  until 
recently  performed  by  the  incumbent  alone  ;  but  he  is 
432 


now  assisted  by  a  missionary,  for  whose  support  the 
General  Assembly  give  the  annual  sum  of  £30,  while 
one  of  the  proprietors  contributes  £20.  There  are 
also,  in  the  parish,  places  of  worship  for  members 
of  the  Free.  Church  and  the  United  Secession.  The 
parochial  school  is  well  attended ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £26,  with  a  house  and  garden  :  the  fees  are 
very  inconsiderable.  There  is  in  each  of  the  districts 
a  school  supported  by  the  Society  for  Propagating 
Christian  Knowledge,  who  pay  each  of  the  teachers  a 
salary  of  £15  per  annum.  In  the  neighbourhood  of 
Garmiston,  in  Stenness,  is  an  extensive  plain  between 
two  hills,  on  which  are  numerous  tumuli,  supposed  to 
cover  the  graves  of  the  slain  in  the  battle  of  Summers- 
dale,  or  Bigswell,  which  took  place  in  the  reign  of 
James  V.,  between  the  inhabitants,  under  Sir  James 
Sinclair,  son  of  Robert,  Earl  of  Orkney,  and  a  body  of 
men  under  John,  Earl  of  Caithness,  who,  pretending  to 
have  some  claim  to  the  eai-ldom,  landed  at  Howton  in 
order  to  take  forcible  possession  of  it. 

FISH  HOLM  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Delting, 
county  of  Shetland.  It  is  a  small  island  of  the  Shet- 
land group,  situated  northward  of  the  Mainland  of  the 
parish,  and  in  the  southern  part  of  Yell  Sound. 

FISHERROW,  county  of  Edinburgh.  —  See 
North  esk. 

FLADA,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Kilmuir,  county 
of  Inverness.  It  is  of  very  small  extent,  and  lies  close 
to  the  north  coast  of  the  Isle  of  Skye  :  the  soil  affords 
pasturage  for  sheep. 

FLADA-WHEIN,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Kil- 
muir, county  of  Inverness.  This  is  one  of  the 
Hebrides,  lying  about  six  miles  northward  from  the 
nearest  point  of  the  Isle  of  Skye  ;  it  is  two  miles  in 
circumference,  and  its  coasts  abound  with  fish.  The 
quality  of  the  grass  here  is  very  good,  and  the  land  is 
wholly  appropriated  to  the  pasturage  of  sheep.  Al- 
though the  isle  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  salt,  deep,  and 
rapid  channel,  it  contains  two  or  three  fresh-water 
springs.  In  its  vicinity  are  four  smaller  islets,  each 
capable  of  rearing  a  few  sheep. 

FLADDA,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Barra,  county 
of  Inverness;  containing  7  inhabitants.  It  is  a  small 
islet  of  the  Hebrides,  lying  between  the  island  of  Barra 
and  island  of  Sanderay. 

FLADDA,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Portree,  isle  of 
Skye,  county  of  Inverness  ;  containing  29  inhabit- 
ants. It  lies  in  the  Sound  of  Rona,  and  westward  of 
the  northern  point  of  Raasay  island. 

FLADDAY  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Harris,  county 
of  Inverness.  This  is  a  flat  islet,  situated  within  the 
island  of  Scarp,  at  the  entrance  of  Loch  Resort,  and  on 
the  western  side  of  the  Mainland  of  Harris. 

FLANNAN  ISLES,  a  group  of  seven  islands,  in  the 
parish  of  Lewis,  county  of  Inverness.  They  lie 
seventeen  miles  north-west  of  Gallan  Head,  in  Lewis, 
and  are  supposed  to  be  the  Insula;  Sacra:  of  ancient 
writers,  and  to  have  been  the  residence  of  the  Druids 
from  the  number  of  Druidical  remains  still  found  upon 
them.  The  largest  islet  has  an  area  of  about  eighty 
acres,  and  the  second  in  size  perhaps  twenty  acres,  and 
both  are  noted  for  fattening  sheep  ;  the  rest  are  of  much 
smaller  dimensions,  and  altogether  unoccupied.  Vari- 
ous kinds  of  sea-fowl  resort  hither ;  and  when,  on  the 
arrival  of  a  boat,  they  come  out  of  their  holes,  they  are 


F  L  I  S 


F  OCH 


described  as  covering  the  surface  of  the  islands,  and 
giving  them  "  the  appearance  of  a  meadow  thickly 
enamelled  with  field-flowers."  Though  this  group  is 
much  dreaded  by  mariners,  it  would  seem  that  the 
danger  of  approach  is  not  great. 

FLAWCRAIG,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Kin- 
naird,  county  of  Perth,  1  mile  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from 
Kinnaird;  containing  44  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  parish,  and  on  the  road  between 
Kinnaird  and  Fingask. 

FLISK,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cupar,  in  the 
county  of  Fife,  8  miles  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from  Cupar; 
containing,  with  the  hamlet  of  Glenduckie,  270  inha- 
bitants. This  place  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its 
name,  descriptive  of  wetness  or  moisture,  from  the 
situation  of  the  lower  grounds,  which,  stretching  along 
the  Tay  on  one  continued  level,  were  formerly  subject 
to  occasional  inundations.  The  parish  lies  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  river,  and  is  about  four  miles  in  length,  and 
of  very  irregular  form,  varying  from  half  a  mile  to  two 
miles  in  breadth  ;  it  comprises  2500  acres,  of  which 
430  are  pasture,  300  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the 
remainder  arable  land  in  profitable  cultivation.  The 
surface  near  the  river  is  flat,  but  rises  gradually  towards 
the  south  till  it  attains  a  considerable  elevation,  forming 
part  of  a  hilly  range,  of  which  the  highest  points  are, 
Lyndemus  hill,  Logie  Law,  and  Glenduckie  hill,  the 
first  of  which  is  about.  750  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
river.  The  beach  is  clayey,  and  is  defended  by  an  accu- 
mulation of  shingle  thrown  up  by  the  tide.  The  soil  is, 
for  the  greater  portion,  a  loam  intermixed  with  clay  ;  in 
some  parts,  especially  towards  the  river,  clay  and  gravel ; 
and  in  others,  a  rich  black  loam  of  great  fertility.  The 
scenery  is  in  several  places  enlivened  with  flourishing 
plantations,  chiefly  of  larch  and  Scotch  fir  ;  the  timber 
in  Flisk  wood,  of  more  ancient  growth,  is  mostly  oak. 
There  are  numerous  springs  of  excellent  quality,  which 
afford  an  ample  supply  of  water.  The  crops  are,  barley, 
oats,  wheat,  potatoes,  peas,  and  turnips.  The  system  of 
agriculture  is  improved  ;  draining  has  been  practised  to 
a  considerable  extent,  and  some  progress  made  in  inclos- 
ing the  farms  ;  the  feuces  are  mainly  stone  dykes,  and 
are  kept  in  good  repair,  and  bone-dust  has  been  exten- 
sively introduced  as  manure.  The  cattle  are  usually  of 
the  old  Fifeshire  breed,  crossed  occasionally  with  the 
Forfarshire  and  Teeswater ;  but  the  number  is  very 
limited,  and  few,  if  any,  sheep  are  reared.  The  farm- 
buildings  are  substantial  and  commodious.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3027. 

The  substrata  are  generally  secondary  trap,  of  which 
the  upper  part  of  the  hills  is  composed,  and  red  sand- 
stone in  the  lower  districts  ;  greenstone  is  also  found 
in  several  places,  with  agates  and  other  stones.  Along 
the  margin  of  the  river  Tay  are  the  debris  of  an  ancient 
forest,  covered  at  full  tide,  with  four  or  five  feet  of 
water  ;  the  appearance  is  that  of  peat-moss,  and  at  low 
water  the  stumps  of  trees,  with  their  roots  attached,  are 
seen  resting  on  a  stratum  of  clay.  The  nearest  market- 
towns  are,  Cupar,  Dundee,  and  Newburgh,  to  which  the 
farmers  resort  for  the  sale  of  produce.  There  are  seve- 
ral stations  in  the  parish  for  the  salmon-fishery,  and 
also  two  for  Sperling  ;  the  quantity  of  fish  taken  is  not 
great,  but  they  are  of  excellent  quality.  The  manufac- 
ture of  potato-flour  is  carried  on  at  the  farm  of  East 
Flisk,  where  a  mill  has  been  erected  for  the  purpose, 
Vol.  I.— 433 


which  is  propelled  by  a  steam-engine  of  two-horse 
power.  Coal,  tiles,  slates,  and  stone  are  landed  on  the 
heach  ;  but  as  there  is  no  pier,  the  inhabitants  derive 
little  other  benefit  from  the  navigation  of  the  river. 
The  road  from  Newburgh  to  Woodhaven,  maintained  by 
statute  labour,  runs  through  the  parish.  Flisk  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod  of  Fife,  and  patronage  of 
the  Earl  of  Zetland  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £151.  11., 
with  a  manse  and  glebe.  The  church,  erected  in  1790, 
near  the  site  of  the  old  church,  then  taken  down,  is  a 
neat  plain  edifice  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  150 
persons  ;  it  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  bank  of  the 
river,  and  about  four  miles  from  Glenduckie,  the  inha- 
bitants of  which  hamlet  attend  the  church  of  Dunbog, 
it  being  more  convenient,  for  them.  The  parochial 
school  affords  a  good  education  to  the  children  of  the 
parish  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £10  fees, 
and  a  house  and  garden. 

Near  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish  are  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Ballinbreich,  seated  on  an 
eminence  overlooking  the  river,  and  surrounded  with  a 
plantation  ;  it  was  for  many  ages  the  residence  of  the 
earls  of  Rothes,  of  whom  Andrew,  the  fourth  earl,  was 
buried  in  the  old  church.  Being,  however,  deserted 
by  that  family,  the  castle  was  sold,  together  with  the 
adjoining  lands,  and  has  been  suffered  to  fall  into 
decay.  The  only  remains  are,  part  of  the  walls,  of  red 
sandstone,  which  appear  to  have  inclosed  an  area  150 
feet  in  length  and  seventy  feet  in  width,  and  some  of 
the  ancient  timber,  of  which  two  remarkably  fine  ches- 
nut-trees  have  been  preserved.  Near  the  castle,  and 
within  the  grounds,  is  a  spot  called  Chapel  Hill,  said  to 
have  been  the  site  of  some  religious  building,  of  which 
the  foundations  may  with  difficulty  be  traced.  There 
are  also  slight  remains  of  another  chapel,  in  Flisk  wood, 
consisting  of  low  walls;  but  whether  this  building  or  the 
ruin  near  the  castle  is  referred  to  in  the  enumeration 
of  the  parishes  of  Fife,  in  which  this  parish  is  designated 
"  Flisk  cum  Capella,"  is  uncertain.  Several  stone 
coffins  of  rude  form,  containing  urns  in  which  were 
burnt  bones,  were  a  few  years  since  discovered  on  the 
farms  of  East  Flisk  and  Belhelvie  ;  burnt  bones  were 
also  found  in  a  cairn  on  the  summit  of  a  mount,  on 
Fliskmill  farm  ;  and  on  Fliskmill  hill  are  some  stones 
called  St.  Muggin's  Seat.  Silver  half-crowns,  shillings, 
and  sixpences,  coined  in  the  reign  of  Edward  III., 
have  been  also  found  on  the  lands  of  East  Flisk.  The 
Rev.  John  Wemyss,  principal  of  St.  Leonard's  College, 
St.  Andrew's,  in  1592  ;  and  the  Rev.  John  Fleming,  D.D., 
author  of  the  Philosophy  of  Zoology  and  History  of  British 
Animals,  and  professor  of  natural  philosophy  in  King's 
College,  Aberdeen,  in  1S32,  were  ministers  of  this 
parish. 

FLODDA,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Barra,  county 
of  Inverness;  containing  53  inhabitants.  It  lies  near 
the  island  of  Helesay,  in  the  sound  of  Flodda,  and 
eastward  of  the  Mainland  of  Barra.  Flodda  Sound 
opens  to  the  south,  and  ships  of  large  ■  burthen  may 
ride  in  it  with  safety  at  all  seasons. 

FLOTTA,  in  the  county  of  Orkney. — See  Walls 
and  Flotta. 

FOCHABERS,  a  burgh  of  barony,  in  the  parish  of 
Bellie,  county  of  Elgin,  7  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from  Elgin  ; 
containing  1135  inhabitants.  This  place  is  situated  in 
the  vicinity  of  Gordon  Castle,  on  rising  ground  near  the 

3  K 


F  O  C  H 


FOD  D 


confluence  of  a  small  rivulet  with  the  Spey,  over  which 
latter  is  a  fine  bridge  of  three  arches,  having  a  water- 
way of  340  feet.  It  is  a  neat  village,  built  on  a  regular 
plan,  with  a  handsome  square  in  the  centre,  orna- 
mented on  each  side  with  trees,  and  streets  entering  the 
square  at  right  angles  ;  and  is  governed  by  a  baron- 
bailie,  appointed  by  the  superior.  A  village  of  the 
same  name  formerly  stood  about  a  mile  northward  of 
the  present,  and  still  nearer  to  Gordon  Castle ;  but  it 
ceased  to  exist  on  the  formation  and  rise  of  the  modern 
village.  Among  the  most  conspicuous  buildings  are, 
the  parochial  church,  and  a  highly-ornamental  epis- 
copal chapel,  recently  built  and  endowed  by  the  Duchess 
of  Gordon,  on  the  north  side  of  the  village,  and  consist- 
ing of  two  stories,  surmounted  with  two  spires ;  the 
tipper  story  is  used  for  public  worship,  and  the  ground 
floor  is  occupied  as  an  infant  school,  and  contains  apart- 
ments for  the  teacher.  There  are  also  a  Roman  Catho- 
lic chapel,  and  a  subscription  library.  The  great  road 
from  Edinburgh  to  Inverness  passes  through  the  vil- 
lage ;  and  annual  markets  are  held,  partly  for  the  sale 
of  horses,  but  especially  for  black-cattle,  on  the  third 
Wednesday  in  January,  the  fourth  in  March  and  May, 
the  second  in  August,  and  the  fourth  in  October  and 
December.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  a  spacious  man- 
sion for  the  lessees  of  a  salmon-fishery  on  the  Spey, 
with  a  range  of  apartments  in  an  extensive  court,  con- 
veniently fitted  up,  and  supplying  every  facility  for  the 
operations  connected  with  this  important  branch  of 
traffic ;  the  produce,  valued  at  several  thousand  pounds 
a  year,  is  sent  to  London  packed  in  ice,  and  employs 
regularly,  during  the  season,  eight  smacks  in  the  con- 
veyance. 

Gordon  Castle,  until  lately  the  seat  of  the  dukes  of 
Gordon,  whose  title  has  become  extinct,  and  now  a  pos- 
session of  their  heir  of  entail  and  representative,  the 
Duke  of  Richmond,  is  considered  the  most  magnificent 
and  princely  mansion  north  of  the  Frith  of  Forth.  This 
edifice  was  originally  a  gloomy  tower,  in  the  centre  of  a 
morass  called  the  Bog  of  Gight,  and  accessible  only  by 
a  narrow  causeway,  and  a  drawbridge.  It  is  now  a  vast 
structure,  of  which  the  exterior  measures  5*0  feet  in 
length ;  and  the  building  consists  of  four  lofty  stories, 
with  spacious  two-storied  wings,  and  connecting  galle- 
ries or  arcades  of  similar  height.  From  behind  the  centre 
rises  a  ponderous  square  tower  of  the  eleventh  century, 
nearly  ninety  feet  high,  overlooking  the  stately  pile, 
which  is  faced  on  all  sides  with  freestone,  and  encircled 
by  an  embattled  coping.  The  castle  is  approached  by 
an  imposing  gateway  at  the  north  end  of  the  village, 
and  entered  by  a  grand  vestibule  embellished  by  copies 
of  the  Apollo  Belvidere  and  the  Venus  de  Medici,  a  bust 
of  Homer,  busts  of  Aurelius  and  Faustina,  of  Csesar 
and  Caracalla,  one  of  a  vestal  virgin,  and  one  of  Pitt, 
each  raised  on  a  handsome  pedestal  of  Sienna  marble. 
At  the  bottom  of  the  great  staircase  are  busts  of  Seneca 
and  Cicero,  and  of  a  grand  duke  of  Tuscany,  a  relative 
of  the  family  of  Gordon  ;  and  on  the  first  landing-place 
is  a  gigantic  wooden  head  of  some  ancient  divinity  of 
the  sea,  with  other  objects  of  striking  interest.  The 
state  apartments  are  numerous  and  splendid,  and 
superbly  furnished :  the  great  dining-room  is  of  the 
most  just  proportions,  and  contains  many  fine  paintings 
and  portraits,  as  do  most  of  the  other  rooms,  including 
the  library,  where  are  several  thousand  volumes,  various 
434 


ancient  and  valuable  MSS.,  geographical  and  astrono- 
mical instruments,  and  antique  curiosities.  There  are 
also  a  small  theatre,  and  a  music-room.  Among  the 
finest  pictures  may  be  mentioned  those  of  Abraham 
turning  off  Hagar  and  her  son  ;  Joseph  resisting  Poti- 
phar's  wife ;  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul ;  Dido  and  St.  Ceci- 
lia ;  Ulysses  and  Calypso  ;  Bacchus  and  Ariadne  ;  Venus 
and  Adonis  ;  a  portrait  of  the  last  duke  of  Gordon ; 
and  one  of  the  second  countess  of  Huntly,  daughter  of 
James  I.,  and  the  lady  through  whom  Lord  Byron 
boasted  of  having  a  share  of  the  royal  blood  of  Scotland 
in  his  veins. 

The  park  in  which  the  castle  stands  is  of  great 
extent,  and  presents  every  variety  of  surface,  walks, 
drives,  meandering  streamlets,  groves,  arbours,  and 
broad-spreading  meadows  ;  while  an  almost  intermin- 
able forest  extends  over  the  mountain  side  in  the  dis- 
tance. Among  the  trees  are  majestic  rows  of  elm  and 
beech,  and  many  of  large  dimensions,  particularly  the 
limes,  planes,  the  walnut,  and  horse-chesnut ;  and  there 
are  fine  plantations  of  birch,  larch,  Scotch  fir,  and  other 
growing  timber  in  a  flourishing  state.  Before  the  castle 
is  a  richly-verdant  sward,  fringed  with  sweetly-scented 
shrubs  ;  and  the  gardens  around  it  occupy  a  space  of 
twelve  acres,  and  are  ornamented  by  rare  plants,  and 
enlivened  by  a  beautiful  lake.  To  the  north  of  the 
mansion  is  a  military  station,  called  the  "  Roman 
camp." 

FODDERTY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ross  and 
Cromarty,  2  miles  (W.)  from  Dingwall;  containing, 
with  the  villages  of  Auchterneed,  Keithtown,  and  Mary- 
burgh,  the  island  of  Balblair,  and  part  of  the  quoad 
sacra  districts  of  Carnoch  and  Kinlochluichart,  2437 
inhabitants.  The  name  is  probably  derived  from  two 
words  in  the  Gaelic  language,  signifying  a  meadow  along 
the  side  of  a  hill,  a  description  characteristic  of  the 
celebrated  valley  of  Strathpeffer,  which  comprehends 
part  of  the  parish.  The  ancient  history  of  Fodderty 
is  very  imperfectly  known  ;  but  it  appears  to  be  closely 
connected  with  that  of  the  famous  Mc  Kenzies,  of  whom 
Roderick  Mc  Kenzie  was  knighted  by  James  VI. ;  the 
grandson  of  Roderick,  named  George,  was  made  secre- 
tary of  state  to  Queen  Anne,  with  the  dignity  of  Earl 
of  Cromarty,  and  in  169S  he  obtained  an  act  to  annex 
all  his  lands  in  Ross- shire  to  the  county  whence  he 
derived  his  title.  Fodderty  comprehended  a  large  part 
of  these  lands  ;  and  thus  it  happens  that,  though  actu- 
ally situated  in  Ross,  it  belongs  to  the  county  of  Cro- 
marty. The  length  of  the  parish,  from  north  to  south, 
is  about  eleven  miles,  and  it  is  nine  miles  in  breadth, 
from  east  to  west.  It  is  bounded  by  Dingwall  on  the 
east,  by  Contin  and  Kinlochluichart  on  the  west,  by 
Kincardine  and  Kiltearn  on  the  north,  and  by  Urray  on 
the  south.  The  surface  partly  consists  of  the  valley 
already  mentioned,  encompassed  by  lofty  hills ;  and  a 
rivulet  called  Peffery  runs  through  it,  whence  the  valley, 
nearly  six  miles  long  and  three-quarters  broad,  derives  its 
name.  The  views  in  every  direction  are  very  fine.  The 
lofty  and  massive  Ben- Wyvis,  3426  feet  high,  and  partly 
in  the  parish  ;  Knock-Farril,  on  which  is  a  strikingly 
marked  vitrified  fort ;  the  vale  of  Strathpeffer,  with  its 
venerable  castle;  the  town  of  Dingwall,  the  Frith  of 
Cromarty,  and  the  interesting  scenery  of  Tulloch  Castle, 
interspersed  in  different  directions  with  the  round  tops 
of  wild  and  rugged  hills,  all  unite  to  complete  the  land- 


FO  DD 


TOGO 


scape.  Loch  Ussie,  containing  several  islands,  and  en- 
compassed with  thriving  plantations,  is  also  a  pleasing 
object. 

The  soil  slightly  varies,  but  in  general  it  is  found  to 
be  a  dark  loamy  mould,  with  a  stiff  clayey  subsoil.  A 
very  large  portion  of  the  land  is  in  a  state  of  bigh  cul- 
tivation; about  1000  acres  are  under  fir  and  larch  plan- 
tation, and  the  remainder  is  hill  pasture.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £609*2.  The  strata  differ 
considerably,  exhibiting  gneiss  on  the  higher  grounds, 
and  in  the  lower  parts  red  sandstone  and  conglomerate  ; 
in  many  places  is  a  slaty  rock  with  black  whinstone, 
and  in  others  a  bituminous  schist,  mixed  with  p}rrites. 
The  noble  mansion  of  Castle-Leod,  built  in  1616,  the 
ancient  residence  of  the  earls  of  Cromarty,  is  of  truly 
baronial  appearance,  five  stories  high,  and  turreted  ;  it 
stands  at  the  base  of  a  hill  beautifully  rounded  at  the 
summit,  and  in  the  midst  of  extensive  parks  adorned 
with  various  kinds  of  trees,  many  of  them  of  ancient 
growth  and  gigantic  stature.  Among  these  is  a  ches- 
nut,  measuring  at  the  bottom  of  its  trunk  twenty-four 
feet  in  circumference ;  the  width  of  its  branches  is 
ninety  feet. 

There  is  a  great  variety  of  mineral  springs  within 
the  parish,  but  the  most  celebrated  is  the  Strathpeffer 
spa,  which  has  been  brought  into  great  repute  within 
the  last  thirty  years  ;  it  has  two  wells,  one  much 
stronger  than  the  other,  both  impregnated  with  sul- 
phuretted hydrogen  gas,  and  said  to  be  highly  efficacious 
in  nervous  and  dyspeptic  complaints.  A  considerable 
number  of  respectable  houses  have  been  built  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  spa,  the  fame  of  which  has  drawn  many 
visiters.  A  large  and  convenient  pump-room  was  erected, 
in  1S19,  at  an  expense  of  £125,  and  is  regularly  sup- 
plied with  the  public  papers  ;  a  splendid  hotel  has  been 
recently  built  at  Blar-na-ceaun,  within  about  half  a  mile 
of  the  pump-room,  and  there  is  an  inn  also  on  the  east 
side  with  comfortable  accommodations.  An  hospital, 
or  infirmary,  has  been  lately  formed,  through  the  exer- 
tions of  J.  E.  Gordon,  Esq.,  for  the  poor  who  resort  to 
the  spa  for  the  benefit  of  its  waters  ;  it  can  accommo- 
date fifty  persons,  but  is  yet  unendowed.  There  is  a 
penny-post  in  the  parish ;  and  between  the  months  of 
May  and  October,  during  the  visiting  season,  a  convey- 
ance runs  twice  every  day  to  Dingwall,  where  it  meets 
the  Inverness  coach.  On  the  river  Conon  is  a  salmon- 
fishery  ;  and  in  the  small  stream  of  the  Peffery,  black 
trout  are  frequently  taken.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Dingwall  and  synod 
of  Ross  :  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £'355,  with  a 
manse,  built  in  1796,  and  a  glebe  and  garden  of  thir- 
teen acres  ;  the  patronage  belongs  to  the  Hon.  Mrs.  Hay 
Mc  Kenzie.  The  church,  a  plain  but  pleasing  structure, 
built  in  ISO?,  and  enlarged  in  1S35,  accommodates  600 
persons  with  sittings  :  the  service  is  alternately  per- 
formed in  English  and  Gaelic.  In  the  village  of  Mary- 
burgh  is  a  church,  recently  erected,  distant  from  the 
parish  church  about  five  miles.  A  parochial  school  is 
maintained,  in  which  the  classics  are  taught,  with  the 
ordinary  branches  of  education  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £36,  with  a  house,  and  £20  fees.  Near  Fodderty 
is  Temple-croft,  or  Croicht-an-Team  puil,  in  which  stone 
coffins  containing  skeletons  have  been  recently  found  : 
on  the  heights  of  the  Hilton  estate  is  a  sepulchral  cairn, 
measuring  in  circumference  260  feet,  and  near  this  spot 
435 


are  the  remains  of  some  Druidical  temples.  There  are 
two  huge  stones  on  cither  side  of  the  church,  vulgarly 
reported  to  have  been  thrown  at  his  enemies  by  the  far- 
famed  Fingal,  the  hero  of  Ossian,  and  to  have  remained 
in  their  present  position.  The  most  striking  antiquity, 
however,  is  Castle-Leod,  built  by  Sir  Roderick  Mc 
Kenzie. 

FOGO,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Berwick,  4  miles 
(S.  by  W.)  from  Dunse  ;  containing  455  inhabitants,  of 
whom  about  35  are  in  the  village.  This  place,  of  which 
the  name  is  of  uncertain  derivation,  appears,  though  un- 
connected with  any  event  of  historical  importance,  to 
have  some  claim  to  antiquity  ;  and  from  a  confirmatory 
charter  of  Malcolm  IV.,  in  1159,  it  is  clear  that  the 
church  of  Fogo  had  been  granted  previously  to  that 
time  to  the  monastery  of  Kelso.  The  parish  is  five  miles 
in  length,  from  east  to  west,  and  two  miles  and  a  half  in 
average  breadth,  and  comprises  about  5000  acres,  of 
which  4600  are  arable,  300  woodland  and  plantations, 
and  the  remainder  meadow  and  pasture.  The  surface  is 
traversed  in  the  north  by  two  parallel  ridges  of  inconsi- 
derable height,  between  which  the  river  Blackadder 
flows  throughout  the  whole  length  of  the  parish  :  on  the 
south  are  some  extensive  level  tracts.  The  scenery  is 
pleasingly  varied,  and  in  parts  enriched  with  timber  of 
stately  growth.  The  Blackadder,  which  has  its  source 
in  some  mossy  land  in  the  parish  of  Westruther, 
from  which  circumstance  it  takes  its  name,  runs  in  a 
direction  from  east  to  west,  and  falls  into  the  White- 
adder  in  the  parish  of  Edrom  ;  it  abounds  with  eels  and 
trout  of  a  reddish  colour,  but  salmon  are  never  fouud  in 
its  stream.  There  is  a  bridge  of  one  arch  on  the  road 
to  Dunse,  built  in  1664,  lately  repaired,  and  which 
bears  the  name  of  the  family  of  Cockburn,  of  Langton. 

The  soil  on  the  higher  land  is  exceedingly  fertile,  con- 
sisting principally  of  a  deep  black  loam  ;  but  in  the 
lower  lands  it  is  thinner,  and  of  inferior  quality,  resting 
on  a  retentive  clay.  The  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat, 
and  turnips ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  ad- 
vanced state,  and  the  four-shift  course  of  husbandry 
generally  prevalent.  Bone-dust  and  various  other  kinds 
of  manure  are  used  in  the  cultivation  of  turnips ;  the 
lands  have  been  in  great  part  thoroughly  drained,  and 
inclosed  with  hedges  of  thorn  ;  the  farm-buildings  are 
substantial  and  well  arranged,  and  all  the  more  recent 
improvements  in  the  construction  of  agricultural  im- 
plements have  been  adopted.  Considerable  attention 
is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  live  stock ;  the  cattle  are 
partly  of  the  short-horned,  and  partly  of  the  Highland 
breed,  and  the  sheep  mostly  the  Leicestershire.  The 
plantations  are  fir,  intermixed  with  forest  trees,  of  which 
the  chief  are,  beech,  birch,  and  lime.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  Fogo  is  £5851.  Caldra  House,  the 
principal  mansion  in  the  parish,  is  now  in  the  occupa- 
tion of  Capt.  Cathcart ;  and  Charter  Hall,  a  neat  summer 
seat,  built  by  the  late  Henry  Trotter,  Esq.,  of  Morton 
Hall,  is  occasionally  visited  by  the  proprietor.  Com- 
munication with  the  neighbouring  market-towns  and 
other  places  is  afforded  by  good  roads,  of  which  the 
turnpike-road  to  Berwick,  and  to  the  suspension-bridge 
communicating  with  Northumberland,  passes  through 
the  parish,  and  that  from  Coldstream  to  Dunse  crosses 
its  western  extremity.  Fogo  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Dunse  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and  patron- 
age of  the  Crown  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £219.  5.  10., 

3  K2 


FORD 


FORD 


.with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £18.  10.  per  annum. 
The  church,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Blaekadder, 
is  an  ancient  structure,  repaired  in  1755,  and  reseated 
in  1S17,  and  is  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  200  per- 
sons. The  parochial  school  is  well  attended ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £25.  13.,  with  £20  fees,  and  a 
house  and  garden.  Among  the  remains  of  antiquity 
may  be  mentioned  the  old  house  of  Harcarse,  situated 
on  the  immediate  borders  of  the  parishes  of  Edrom 
and  Swinton,  and  formerly  belonging  to  the  family 
of  Hogg,  now  extinct ;  and  at  the  western  extremity 
of  the  parish,  at  a  place  named  Chesters,  are  vestiges  of 
a  Roman  camp,  the  stones  of  which  have  been  nearly 
all  removed.  To  the  south  of  the  parish  have  been 
discovered,  in  a  marshy  tract  of  land,  some  remains  of 
a  causeway,  probably  part  of  the  road  leading  to  the 
camp. 

FORBES,  Aberdeenshire. — See  Tullynessle. 

FORDEL-SQUARE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Dalgety,  district  of  Dunfermline,  county  of  Fife, 
2|  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Inverkeithing ;  containing  157 
inhabitants.  It  lies  on  the  western  side  of  the  parish, 
and  is  connected  with  the  Fordel  coal-works,  which 
have  been  wrought  for  nearly  250  years,  and  where 
nearly  70,000  tons  of  coal  were  until  recently  annually 
raised.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  a  picturesque  water- 
fall ;  and  Fordel  House,  an  elegant  mansion,  surrounded 
with  extensive  plantations,  is  only  a  short  distance  from 
the  village. 

FORDOUN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Kincardine, 
1 1  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Stonehaven  ;  containing,  with 
the  village  of  Auchinblae,  2342  inhabitants,  of  whom 
34  are  in  the  Kirktown.  This  place,  which  is  of  remote 
antiquity,  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name,  signi- 
fying in  the  Gaelic  language  the  "front  hill,"  from  the 
situation  of  the  church  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  of 
Fenella,  in  front  of  the  Grampian  range.  The  parish, 
or  part  of  it,  had  also  the  appellation  of  Paldy,  from 
the  dedication  of  an  ancient  chapel  to  St.  Palladius, 
who  was  sent  from  Rome  in  the  fifth  century,  to  oppose 
the  Pelagian  heresy,  and  who,  but  upon  very  doubtful 
authority,  is  said  to  have  fixed  his  residence  here.  Of 
this  chapel,  on  a  pilgrimage  to  which,  to  visit  the 
shrine  of  the  saint,  Kenneth  III.  was  murdered  by 
Dame  Fenella,  as  related  in  the  article  on  Fettercairn, 
some  memorials  are  preserved  in  the  name  of  a  well  in 
the  manse  garden,  still  called  the  well  of  St.  Palladius. 
A  sculptured  stone,  commemorative  of  the  murder, 
appears  to  have  been  erected  in  the  chapel,  but,  at  the 
Reformation,  it  was  removed,  and  for  greater  security 
concealed  under  the  pulpit  of  the  old  parish  church, 
where,  on  the  rebuilding  of  that  structure,  it  was 
afterwards  discovered. 

The  parish,  which  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Grampian  mountains,  is  about  eight  miles  in  length, 
and  five  and  a  half  in  average  breadth,  comprising  an 
area  of  27,800  acres,  of  which  11,500  are  arable,  21 60 
woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  moorland 
pasture  and  waste.  The  surface  is  strikingly  varied, 
rising  from  the  south-east,  by  bold  undulations,  towards 
the  Grampian  range  on  the  north-west,  and  broken 
into  deep  glens  and  pleasing  vales  by  numerous  streams 
descending  from  the  mountains,  and  by  the  prominent 
hill  of  Fenella,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish.  This 
hill,  which  is  one  mass  of  sandstone,  is  about  four  miles 
436 


in  length,  and  a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  breadth,  rising 
in  a  gracefully  curvilinear  form  to  the  height  of  1200 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  separated,  by  the 
picturesque  vale  of  Strath-Fenella,  from  the  Grampians, 
which  in  this  parish  do  not  attain  an  elevation  of 
more  than  1500  feet.  The  rivers  are  the  Luther  and 
the  Bervie.  The  Luther  has  its  source  in  the  hills 
behind  Drumtochty,  and,  flowing  to  the  village  of 
Auchinblae,  where  it  receives  a  stream  from  Glenfar- 
quhar,  takes  a  south-easterly  direction  to  Fordoun 
House,  beyond  which  it  changes  its  course  to  the  west, 
and  flows  through  the  parish  of  Laurencekirk  into 
the  North  Esk.  The  Bervie  has  its  source  in  the  hills 
of  Glenfarquhar,  and,  running  to  the  south-east,  by 
Glenbervie  House,  winds  round  the  base  of  the  hill  of 
Knock,  and,  after  a  devious  course,  flows  through  the 
parish  of  Bervie  into  the  sea.  Of  the  small  streams 
that  descend  from  the  Grampians,  the  principal  are,  the 
burn  of  Craigniston,  which  for  some  distance  separates 
the  parish  from  Fettercairn  ;  and  the  Ferdun,  formed 
by  two  burns  which  unite  at  Clattering  Briggs,  and, 
after  washing  the  western  base  of  the  hill  of  Fenella, 
fall  into  the  Luther.  The  Luther  and  the  Bervie  both 
abound  with  small  trout  ;  and  salmon  are  occasionally 
found  in  the  latter. 

The  soil  in  the  lower  grounds  is  a  tenacious  clay,  of 
moderate  fertility ;  along  the  bases  of  the  hills,  a  deep 
rich  loam  ;  and  on  the  higher  grounds,  a  brown 
gravelly  loam  :  the  crops  are,  barley,  oats,  wheat, 
beans,  peas,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  with  the  various 
grasses.  The  system  of  husbandry  has  been  greatly 
bettered  under  the  auspices  of  the  Fettercairn  Club, 
which  includes  also  this  parish  and  the  parishes  of 
Laurencekirk  and  Marykirk.  The  lands  have  been 
drained  and  partly  inclosed ;  the  farm-buildings  are 
substantial  and  commodious,  and  the  more  recent  im- 
provements in  the  construction  and  use  of  agricultural 
implements  have  been  adopted.  Much  attention  is 
paid  to  the  management  of  the  dairy-farms,  and  to 
live  stock.  The  cattle  are  of  the  pure  Angus  or  Aber- 
deen polled  breed ;  the  best  are  sent  to  the  London 
market,  where  they  obtain  a  high  price,  and  the  re- 
mainder to  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow.  The  sheep,  which 
are  reared  solely  on  the  hills,  are  of  the  black-faced  or 
mountain  breed,  with  a  few  of  the  Cheviot,  recently 
introduced ;  and  the  horses,  reared  chiefly  for  agricul- 
ture, approach  very  nearly  to  the  Clydesdale  breed. 
The  wood  is  of  modern  growth,  with  the  exception  of 
some  natural  birch  and  coppice,  on  the  lands  of  Drum- 
tochty Castle  ;  the  plantations  consist  of  larch,  and 
spruce  and  Scotch  firs,  interspersed  with  oak,  ash, 
elm,  beech,  birch,  and  sycamore.  The  chief  substrata 
are,  red  sandstone,  greenstone,  in  which  occasionally 
amethysts  are  imbedded,  clay-slate,  limestone,  and  free- 
stone, of  which  there  are  several  quarries.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £12,967. 

Drumtochty  Castle  is  a  spacious  castellated  mansion 
in  the  early  English  style,  erected  by  George  Harley 
Drummond,  Esq.,  at  a  cost  of  £30,000,  and  seated  on 
an  eminence  rising  from  the  bank  of  the  Luther,  in  a 
richly-wooded  demesne,  tastefully  laid  out  in  walks, 
commanding  much  picturesque  and  finely-varied  scenery. 
Phesdo,  an  elegant  mansion  of  Aberdeen  granite,  in  the 
Grecian  style,  with  a  handsome  portico  of  the  Doric 
order,  built  by  the  late  Alexander  Crombie,  of  Aberdeen, 


E  O  R  D 


F  O  II  D 


Esq.,  is  beautifully  situated  in  grounds  embellished 
with  plantations,  and  near  the  base  of  Fenella  hill, 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  vale  of  Strathmore  and 
the  Grampians.  Monboddo,  the  birthplace  of  Lord 
Monboddo,  is  an  ancient  mansion,  greatly  improved 
by  the  late  Mrs.  Burnett,  his  daughter.  Fordoun  House 
is,  together  with  the  farm,  in  the  occupation  of  a 
tenant ;  as  is  also  Castleton.  The  Kirktown  merely  con- 
tains the  church,  manse,  and  school-house,  with  a  few 
cottages  and  an  inn.  The  village  of  Kincardine,  once 
the  county  town,  and  residence  of  the  sheriff,  who  held 
his  courts  here  till  the  reign  of  James  VI.,  when  they 
were  removed  to  Stonehaven,  has  dwindled  into  an 
insignificant  hamlet  :  the  ancient  cross  that  stood  in 
the  market-place  has  been  removed,  and  placed  in  the 
village  of  Fettercairn.  The  castle  of  Kincardine,  of 
which  the  ruins  are  situated  on  the  adjacent  lands  of 
Castleton,  was  a  celebrated  palace  of  several  of  the 
Scottish  monarchs,  of  whom  Kenneth  III.,  while  here, 
was  murdered  by  Dame  Fenella ;  and  in  this  castle 
John  Baliol  is  said  to  have  been  residing  when  he 
abdicated  the  crown  in  favour  of  Edward  I.  of  England. 
From  the  ruins,  it  appears  to  have  been  a  spacious 
quadrangular  structure  of  great  solidity,  but  only  the 
foundations  of  some  of  the  walls  are  now  remaining. 
The  village  of  Auchinblae,  situated  to  the  east  of  Strath- 
Fenella,  contains  several  inns :  the  inhabitants  are 
partly  employed  in  the  spinning  of  flax  and  the  weaving 
of  coarse  linen ;  and  the  place,  which  has  a  thriving 
appearance,  has  been  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony, 
and  is  governed  by  a  baron-bailie  appointed  by  the  Earl 
of  Kintore.  Fairs  are  annually  held  in  the  parish,  of 
which  the  most  considerable  is  Paldy  fair,  for  horses, 
sheep,  and  cattle,  which  takes  place  in  July,  on  a  moor 
near  the  foot  of  the  Grampians.  Another  fair  for 
horses  and  cattle  is  also  held  in  July,  at  Lammas 
muir,  in  the  western  portion  of  the  parish  ;  and  at 
Auchinblae,  besides  two  annual  fairs,  are  weekly  mar- 
kets for  grain  and  cattle,  during  the  winter.  Runners 
from  the  post-offices  of  Stonehaven  and  Montrose  bring 
the  letters ;  and  facility  of  communication  is  main- 
tained by  the  turnpike-road  from  Aberdeen  to  Edin- 
burgh, through  Strathmore,  and  by  statute  roads  and 
bridges  kept  in  excellent  repair. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Fordoun,  which  holds 
its  sittings  here,  and  the  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns. 
The  minister's  stipend  is  £249,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £12  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Crown. 
The  church,  erected  in  1S29,  at  a  cost  of  £3000,  is  a 
handsome  structure  in  the  later  English  style  of  archi- 
tecture, with  a  tower  at  the  west  end,  ninety-three  feet 
in  height  ;  the  interior  is  well  arranged,  and  contains 
1230  sittings.  The  burying-ground  is  inclosed  by  a 
wall  of  masonry,  in  which  is  an  elegant  gateway.  There 
is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church. 
The  parochial  school,  for  which  an  appropriate  building 
has  been  erected,  is  attended  by  about  seventy  chil- 
dren ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £35.  12.,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £15  per  annum.  A 
parochial  library  was  established  in  1S27,  which  now 
contains  nearly  700  volumes  ;  and  there  is  also  a  small 
library  belonging  to  the  Sunday  school.  Alexander 
Crombie,  Esq.,  bequeathed  £100,  Mrs.  Bogendollo  £50, 
and  the  late  Mrs.  Burnett,  of  Monboddo,  £50,  for  the 
437 


benefit  of  the  poor.  Close  to  Fordoun  House  are  the 
remains  of  a  Roman  camp,  of  which  the  praetorium  is 
in  a  tolerably  perfect  state  ;  near  it  have  been  found 
urns  containing  ashes  and  half-burnt  bones,  a  gold 
ring,  and  other  relics  of  Roman  antiquity.  In  a  secluded 
glen  not  far  from  Drumtochty,  are  some  remains  of  a 
small  friary  ;  and  on  the  hill  above  Newlands,  and 
near  Castleton,  are  Druidical  ruins.  John  of  Fordoun, 
author  of  the  Scotochronicon,  and  Dr.  Beattie,  brother 
of  the  author  of  The  Minstrel,  were  natives  of  this  place. 

FORDYCE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Banff;  con- 
taining, with  the  villages  of  Sandend  and  New  Mills, 
and  the  town  of  Portsoy,  3442  inhabitants,  of  whom 
243  are  in  the  village  of  Fordyce,  2|  miles  (W.  S.  W.) 
from  Portsoy.  The  name  of  this  place,  which  appears 
to  have  undergone  no  orthographical  variation  since 
the  most  ancient  times,  is  supposed  to  be  derived  from 
the  two  Gaelic  words  fuar,  cold,  and  dcas,  south,  which, 
from  their  original  appropriation  as  descriptive  of  the 
southern  portion  of  the  parish,  have  been  subsequently 
used  as  an  appellation  for  the  whole  of  it.  The  lands 
once  belonged  to  the  family  of  Sinclair,  but  afterwards 
came  into  that  of  Ogilvie,  in  which  they  have  remained 
for  about  400  years  to  the  present  time.  Sir  Walter 
Ogilvie,  in  1455,  obtained  permission  of  James  II.,  to 
fortify  his  house  of  Findlater,  situated  here ;  and  the 
castle  seems  to  have  been  regularly  occupied  till  nearly 
the  end  of  the  reign  of  James  VI.,  when  it  was  in 
the  possession  of  John  Gordon,  son  of  the  Earl  of 
Huntly,  who  had  received  the  castle  and  estates  from 
one  of  the  Ogilvie  family,  who  had  disinherited  his  own 
son.  After  much  litigation  and  many  severe  feuds, 
however,  it  returned  to  the  former  possessors,  chiefly 
through  arbitration,  in  which  the  queen  took  a  leading 
part.  During  its  occupancy  by  Gordon,  it  was  one 
among  many  places  that  refused  to  acknowledge  Queen 
Mary  when  she  visited  the  northern  districts,  in  con- 
sequence of  which  she  sent  a  party  of  120  soldiers 
against  it,  who  were  attacked  by  Gordon  at  Cullen,  and 
all  of  them  either  slain  or  routed.  The  district  of 
Findlater  has  given  the  title  of  Earl  to  several  of  its 
proprietors,  one  of  whom  united  to  it  that  of  Seafield  ; 
and  the  present  Lord  Seafield,  who  now  holds  the 
estates,  is  grandson  to  Sir  Ludovic  Grant,  who  married 
Lady  Margaret,  eldest  daughter  of  James,  fifth  earl 
of  Findlater. 

Fordyce,  which  once  comprehended  the  parishes  of 
Ordiquhill,  Deskford,  and  Cullen,  long  since  separated, 
is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Moray  Frith,  and  is 
about  seven  or  eight  miles  in  length,  and  from  two  to 
six  in  breadth,  comprising  18,6/0  acres,  of  which  9306 
are  either  cultivated  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  5960  waste 
or  natural  pasture,  1500  undivided  common,  and  1234 
under  wood.  The  surface  is  greatly  diversified  with 
hill  and  dale,  and  several  lofty  elevations  give  to  the 
scenery  a  very  bold  and  decided  character.  The  prin- 
cipal of  these  are  the  hills  of  Durn  and  Fordyce,  nearly 
in  the  middle  of  the  parish,  which  stretch  in  a  form 
almost  semicircular,  from  north-east  to  south-west, 
the  former  rising  about  700  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  ;  and  the  hill  of  Knock,  near  the  southern  boundary, 
on  the  summit  of  which  is  a  bed  of  peat-moss,  and 
which,  attaining  an  elevation  of  between  1200  and 
1400  feet,  serves  at  a  considerable  distance  as  a  land- 
mark for  mariners.     The  coast,  though  not  precipitous, 


FORD 


FORF 


is  marked  by  a  strong  rocky  outline,  broken  by  nume- 
rous caves  and  several  headlands  and  bays.  The 
chief  points  are,  the  East  and  West  heads,  taking  their 
names  from  their  relative  positions  to  Portsoy,  and 
Logie  head,  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish; 
the  bays  are  named  Portsoy  and  Sandend,  the  former 
possessing  a  secure  and  convenient  harbour,  and  the 
latter  having  about  half  a  mile  of  sandy  beach,  in  which 
is  situated  Redhyth  point,  where  small  vessels  find 
anchorage  and  shelter.  The  streams  are  inconsiderable, 
comprising  only  the  burn  of  B-oyn,  which  marks  the 
eastern  boundary  of  the  parish ;  the  burn  of  Durn, 
which  joins  the  sea  at  Portsoy ;  and  the  burn  of 
Fordyce,  falling  into  the  bay  of  Sandend. 

The  soil,  which  is  incumbent  on  strata  of  almost 
every  description,  comprehends  strong  clay  and  light 
and  clayey  loam  ;  it  is  wet  and  cold  in  the  southern 
quarter,  but  rich  and  fertile  about  the  coast,  producing 
all  kinds  of  grain,  with  potatoes,  turnips,  hay,  and 
flax.  The  cattle  are  chiefly  a  cross  between  the  old 
Banffshire  and  the  Buchan  breeds  :  their  improvement 
has  been  greatly  promoted  by  premiums  given  by  the 
Banffshire  Farmers'  Club  and  the  Highland  Society ; 
and  a  decided  advantage  has  been  obtained  by  the  in- 
troduction of  the  Teeswater  bull.  The  sheep  are  the 
Cheviots,  with  a  few  of  the  native  black-faced  ;  the 
horses  are  in  general  of  the  ordinary  kind,  with  the 
exception  of  those  bred  from  Clydesdale  mares,  which 
are  very  superior  in  strength  and  appearance.  Though 
the  fences  and  farm-buildings -are  still,  to  a  great  ex- 
tent, in  a  defective  condition,  much  has  been  done 
within  the  present  century  in  the  way  of  agricultural 
improvement,  especially  by  draining.  Upwards  of 
10,000  yards  of  ditches,  and  nearly  20,000  yards  of 
drains,  have  been  completed  on  one  farm  since  1S37, 
independently  of  1600  of  marsh  ditches  cut  in  another 
part ;  bone  manure  has  been  introduced,  and  several 
threshing-mills  erected.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
Fordyce  is  £S712.  The  parish  is  of  considerable  im- 
portance in  a  geological  point  of  view,  and  is  celebrated 
for  its  extensive  strata  of  serpentine  rock,  of  which 
there  are  immense  beds,  and  which,  admitting  of  a  very 
fine  polish,  has  long  been  a  favourite  material,  not 
only  in  Britain,  but  also  in  many  parts  of  the  con- 
tinent, for  the  manufacture  of  various  kinds  of  orna- 
ments. In  the  palace  of  Versailles,  where  it  is  known 
by  the  name  of  Scottish  marble,  it  has  been  employed 
in  the  construction  of  several  chimney-pieces.  Among 
the  numerous  geological  varieties  are,  hornblende,  sye- 
nite, granite,  felspar,  mica-slate,  quartz,  and  clay-slate ; 
also  limestone  with  veins  of  granite,  and  small  por- 
tions of  magnetic  iron-ore.  The  plantations  are  prin- 
cipally larch  and  Scotch  fir,  with  some  ash,  the  last  of 
which  is  found  in  a  thriving  condition  near  the  old 
castle  of  the  Boyn.  The  seats  are,  Birkenbog,  an  old 
plain  building,  inhabited  by  the  tenant  who  rents  the 
farm ;  and  Glassaugh,  a  neat  and  spacious  modern 
mansion,  recently  much  enlarged  and  improved.  The 
village  of  Fordyce  was  made  a  burgh  of  barony  in  1499. 
About  fourteen  miles  of  turnpike-road  run  through  the 
parish,  branching  off  in  various  directions  to  Banff, 
Cullen,  Keith,  and  Huntly ;  and  there  are  several  good 
substantial  bridges.  Two  fairs  are  held ;  one  in  No- 
vember, for  cattle  and  for  hiring  servants,  and  the  other 
in  December,  for  cattle  onlv. 
438 


The  parish  is  ecclesiastically  in  the  presbytery  of 
Fordyce  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage 
of  the  Earl  of  Seafield.  The  stipend  is  £226 ;  and 
there  is  a  manse,  with  a  glebe  of  two  and  a  half  acres, 
valued  at  £5  per  annum,  and  a  croft  of  five  acres,  called 
the  Vicar's  Croft,  bequeathed  in  1595  for  the  use  of  the 
minister.  The  church,  built  in  1804,  contains  1050 
sittings.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in 
Greek,  Latin,  mathematics,  and  all  the  branches  of  a 
useful  education  ;  the  salary  of  the  master  is  £34,  and 
he  has  also  10  acres  of  land,  left  by  Thomas  Menzies, 
of  Durn,  and  receives  about  £30  in  fees.  Walter 
Ogilvie,  of  Redhyth,  in  167S,  bequeathed  land  for  the 
establishment  of  bursaries  at  the  parochial  school  and 
at  King's  College,  Aberdeen  5  in  the  former  there  are 
seventeen,  extending  to  five  years  each.  George  Smith, 
who  was  born  in  the  village  of  Fordyce,  established  nine 
bursaries  in  his  native  parish,  likewise  of  five  years' 
duration;  they  commenced  in  1801,  and  are  worth  £25 
per  annum  each,  appropriated  to  board,  clothing,  and 
education  :  he  also  left  £25  a  year  to  the  minister  for 
superintending  the  youth  on  the  foundation.  The  Rev. 
James  Stuart,  rector  of  Georgetown  and  All  Saints,  in 
South  Carolina,  left  £1200  for  a  bursary  in  the  school 
of  Fordyce,  for  boys  bearing  the  name  of  Stuart,  which 
endowment  commenced  in  1S10  ;  and  there  ,are  two 
other  small  bursaries,  founded  by  James  Murray.  On 
the  hill  of  Durn  are  the  remains  of  an  encampment, 
supposed  to  have  been  thrown  up  by  the  Danes  ;  and 
several  urns,  containing  ashes  and  bones,  have  been 
occasionally  dug  up  in  different  places.  But  the  chief 
relic  of  antiquity  is  the  old  castle  of  Findlater,  situated 
on  a  rock  almost  surrounded  by  the  sea,  and  which 
appears  to  have  been  of  considerable  strength.  The 
lower  apartments  are  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  are 
strongly  arched  ;  and  on  the  south  were  formerly  a 
fosse  and  drawbridge,  beyond  which,  at  the  distance  of 
about  one  hundred  yards,  an  outwork  existed,  for 
greater  security,  consisting  of  a  fosse  and  rampart. 
There  are  several  chalybeate  springs ;  but  the  most 
celebrated  is  that  called  "  John  Legg's  Well,"  which  is 
much  frequented  in  summer  both  by  natives  and 
strangers.  Sir  James  Clark,  Physician  to  Her  Majesty, 
and  Dr.  John  Forbes,  physician  extraordinary  to  Prince 
Albert,  were  educated  at  the  parochial  school. 

FORFAR,  a  royal  burgh, 
the  county  town,  a  parish, 
and  the  seat  of  a  presbytery, 
in  the  county  of  Forfar,  70 
miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Edin- 
burgh; containing,  with  the 
villages  of  Carseburn  andLu- 
nanhead,9620  inhabitants,  of 
whom  S362  are  in  the  burgh. 
This  place,  in  some  ancient 
documents,  is  noticed  under 
the  designation  of  Forfar- 
Burgh  Seal.  Restenneth ;  and  in  others, 

Forfar  and  Restenneth  are  separately  mentioned  as  dis- 
tinct parishes,  the  union  of  which,  though  extremely 
probable,  has  not  been  proved  by  any  authentic  evidence. 
In  the  latter  part  of  the  seventh  century,  a  priory  was 
founded  at  Restenneth,  which  became  subordinate  to  the 
abbey  of  Jedburgh,  and  of  which  there  are  still  some  re- 
mains on  the  west  side  of  the  loch  of  Restenneth.    In  this 


F  O  R  F 


FO  R  F 


establishment,  Alexander  I.  deposited  the  public  records 
that  had  been  placed  by  King  Fergus  in  the  abbey  of 
Iona,  or  Icolmkill,  which  was  difficult  of  access;  and  in 
1296,  Robert,  then  prior,  took  the  oath  of  fealty  to 
Edward  I.  of  England.  The  priory  appears  to  have 
been  well  endowed,  and  to  have  had  considerable  pos- 
sessions in  the  neighbourhood  ;  it  flourished  till  about 
the  year  1652,  when  the  right  of  patronage  of  the 
church  was  purchased  from  the  prior  by  the  magis- 
trates and  council  of  the  burgh.  Forfar  appears  to 
have  been  a  royal  residence  at  a  very  early  period. 
Malcolm  Canmore  is  said  to  have  held  parliaments  in 
the  castle,  situated  on  an  eminence  to  the  north  of  the 
town,  where  he  resided  with  his  court ;  and  his  queen, 
Margaret,  had  a  palace  on  a  small  island  in  the  loch  of 
Forfar,  called  the  Inch,  on  which,  for  many  years,  the 
inhabitants  of  the  burgh  were  in  the  habit  of  celebrating 
an  annual  festival  in  honour  of  her  memory.  In  1307, 
Robert  Bruce,  on  his  route  from  Abei'deen  to  Angus, 
assaulted  the  castle  of  Forfar,  at  that  time  strongly 
garrisoned  by  the  English,  and,  taking  it  by  escalade, 
put  the  whole  of  the  garrison  to  the  sword,  and  ordered 
the  fortifications  to  be  levelled  with  the  ground.  In 
1647,  the  burgesses  opposed  the  surrender  of  the  person 
of  Charles  I.  into  the  hands  of  the  republican  party, 
and,  through  their  provost,  entered  a  warm  protest 
against  that  measure  in  parliament.  When  the  city  of 
Dundee  was  taken  by  the  army  of  General  Monk,  a 
detachment  of  English  forces  was  sent  to  Forfar,  who 
plundered  the  town,  and  destroyed  ail  the  charters  and 
public  records  of  the  burgh.  Towards  the  close  of  the 
17th  century,  frequent  trials  and  executions  for  witch- 
craft occurred  here,  of  which  the  last  was  in  16S2  :  the 
place  of  execution,  a  small  hollow  to  the  north  of  the 
town,  still  retains  the  name  of  the  "  Witches  Howe," 
and  the  iron  bridle  that  was  fastened  round  the  head  of 
the  victims  on  these  occasions  is  yet  preserved. 

The  town,  which  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Aber- 
deen to  Perth,  consists  of  two  principal  and  of  several 
smaller  streets,  in  which  are  numerous  well-built  houses, 
many  of  them  of  handsome  appearance  ;  and  within  the 
last  half  century  very  great  improvements  have  taken 
place.  The  streets  are  lighted  with  gas,  and  the  inha- 
bitants are  supplied  with  water  from  wells  sunk  by 
subscription  of  individuals,  aided  by  grants  for  the 
purpose  by  the  magistrates  of  the  burgh.  A  subscrip- 
tion library  is  supported ;  there  are  a  newsroom,  and 
a  mechanics'  reading-room,  both  containing  a  good  col- 
lection of  books ;  and  a  horticultural  society  has  been 
established.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  employed  in  the 
linen  manufacture ;  the  principal  articles  are,  sheetings, 
Osnaburghs,  and  dowlas,  in  the  weaving  of  which  about 
3000  persons  are  regularly  employed  in  their  own 
dwellings.  The  quantity  of  linen  annually  woven  is 
about  14,000,000  yards,  and  the  average  value  £300,000. 
There  are  ale  and  beer  breweries,  and  various  shops  for 
the  supply  of  the  vicinity  with  different  articles  of  mer- 
chandise. A  very  considerable  increase  of  general  traffic 
has  taken  place  since  the  opening  of  the  railway  between 
Forfar  and  Arbroath,  which  has  its  terminus  at  the 
north  extremity  of  the  town,  and  which  was  opened  to 
the  public,  for  the  conveyance  of  goods  and  passengers, 
on  the  3rd  of  January,  1839  :  the  line  is  fifteen  miles  in 
length,  with  a  rise  upon  the  whole  distance  of  about 
220  feet,  and  it  was  completed  at  an  expense  of  £140,000. 
439 


In  1S40,  an  act  was  obtained  for  increasing  the  capital 
stock  of  the  company.  An  excellent  road  from  Forfar 
to  Kirriemuir,  also,  has  been  constructed,  opening  a 
communication  with  a  large  Highland  district.  The 
principal  market  is  on  Wednesday  ;  and  there  is  a 
market,  well  supplied  with  provisions  of  all  kinds,  on 
Saturday.  Fairs  are  held  on  the  last  Wednesday  in 
February,  the  second  in  April,  and  the  first  in  May,  for 
cattle  and  horses ;  on  the  day  after  Dunsmuir  fair,  in 
June,  for  cattle ;  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  July,  for 
sheep,  on  the  Wednesday  following,  for  cattle,  and  on 
Thursday,  for  horses  :  on  the  first  Wednesday  in  August, 
for  cattle  ;  the  last  Wednesday  in  September,  for  horses 
and  cattle;  and  the  third  Wednesday  in  October  and 
the  first  in  November,  for  cattle.  These  fairs  are  much 
frequented  by  dealers  from  the  southern  counties  and 
from  different  parts  of  England  ;  and  on  account  of  its 
position  in  the  very  centre  of  the  county,  Forfar  is  re- 
markable for  the  great  attendance  and  amount  of  busi- 
ness transacted  at  its  Wednesday  weekly  market,  which 
indeed,  from  the  beginning  of  the  month  of  November 
until  the  end  of  that  of  March,  resembles  a  large  fair. 

The  burgh,  by  charter  of  Charles  II.,  bestowed  in 
the  year  1665,  is  governed  by  a  provost,  two  bailies,  a 
treasurer,  and  a  town  council  of  fifteen  members.  There 
are  five  incorporated  companies,  the  glovers,  shoe- 
makers, tailors,  weavers,  and  hammermen,  the  terms 
of  admission  to  which  vary  considerably  ;  the  fee  paid 
on  admission  as  a  burgess  is,  for  a  stranger  £2,  and 
for  the  son  of  a  freeman,  the  husband  of  a  freeman's 
daughter,  or  an  apprentice,  £1.  The  jurisdiction  of  the 
burgh  extends  over  the  whole  royalty,  which  is  about 
two  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  and  half  a  mile  in 
breadth,  and  also  over  the  liberties,  under  the  charter. 
The  bailies  hold  a  court  for  the  determination  of  civil 
pleas  to  any  amount,  in  which  they  are  assisted  by  an 
assessor,  and  also  a  criminal  court,  chiefly  for  the  trial 
of  petty  offences,  though  by  charter  their  jurisdiction 
extends  to  capital  crimes ;  but,  from  the  conducting  of 
causes  by  written  pleas,  the  expenses  of  process  tend 
greatly  to  diminish  the  number  of  suits  in  the  latter. 
As  the  county  town,  the  sessions  are  regularly  held 
here,  as  well  as  the  election  of  the  representative  in 
parliament.  A  handsome  building  has  been  erected  at 
an  expense  of  £5000,  containing  a  sheriff's  court,  with 
offices  for  the  sheriff's  clerk,  and  rooms  for  the  juries 
and  for  the  records.  The  town  and  county  hall,  situated 
in  the  centre  of  the  town,  is  a  neat  edifice,  comprising 
halls  for  the  transaction  of  public  business,  and  courts 
for  holding  the  sessions  ;  and  in  the  same  building  is 
the  old  gaol,  now  converted  into  an  excellent  market- 
place, as,  from  its  inadequacy  as  a  gaol,  ground  was 
lately  purchased  to  the  north  of  the  town,  on  which  a 
more  spacious  and  better  arranged  prison  has  been 
erected.  The  burgh,  with  those  of  Montrose,  Arbroath, 
Brechin,  and  Bervie,  returns  one  member  to  the  impe- 
rial parliament :  the  elective  franchise,  under  the  Reform 
act,  is  vested  in  the  resident  £10  householders  ;  the 
number  of  these  is  250. 

The  parish,  which  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the 
valley  of  Strathmore,  is  about  six  miles  in  length,  from 
north  to  south,  and  five  miles  in  breadth.  The  surface, 
though  generally  level,  is  varied  by  the  two  hills  of  Bal- 
mashinar,  near  the  town,  and  Lower,  at  its  southern  ex- 
tremity, of  which  the  former  commands    an  extensive 


F  O  R  F 


F  O  R  F 


and  richly- diversified  prospect :  the  rivers  are  the 
Lunan  and  the  Venn}',  which,  though  abounding  in 
trout,  are,  ia  their  course  through  the  parish,  very  in-' 
considerable  streamlets.  There  were  formerly  three 
large  lakes,  Restenneth,  Fithie,  and  the  loch  of  Forfar ; 
but.  the  two  first  have  been  drained  for  marl,  and  the 
last,  though  still  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  has  been  much 
reduced  in  extent.  The  soil,  with  the  exception  of  a 
tract  of  wet  clay  in  the  south,  is  generally  light  and 
dry,  producing  excellent  crops  of  oats,  barley,  and  tur- 
nips, with  various  other  green  crops.  The  lands  are  in 
a  good  state  of  cultivation  ;  the  use  of  shell-marl  found 
in  the  lakes  for  manure  has  been  almost  superseded  by 
the  use  of  lime,  and  the  system  of  husbandry  has  been 
greatly  advanced.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £12,015.  In  the  south-west,  and  also  in  the 
eastern  parts  of  the  parish,  freestone  of  good  quality  for 
building  is  extensively  wrought.  From  the  quarries 
here,  has  been  taken  the  stone  of  which  most  of  the 
houses  in  the  town,  and  the  steeple  of  the  church,  are 
built ;  and  large  quantities  of  flags  for  pavement,  and  of 
thin  sandstone  for  roofing,  are  sent  by  railroad  to 
Arbroath  and  Dundee,  whence  they  are  shipped  to 
various  parts  of  the  kingdom.  The  only  mansion- 
house  is  that  of  Lower,  built  by  a  former  earl  of  North- 
esk,  and  now  the  property  of  his  descendants,  the  family 
of  Carnegie. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Forfar  and  synod  of 
Angus  and  Mearns.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £167.  17-, 
with  a  manse,  a  handsome  modern  building,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £20  per  annum  ;  patrons,  the  Town  Council. 
The  church,  originally  built  in  1*91,  and  partly  rebuilt, 
and  made  more  commodious,  in  1836,  is  a  plain  sub- 
stantial edifice,  with  a  steeple  erected  in  1814,  in  which 
are  three  old  bells,  the  gift  of  Mr.  Strang,  a  native  of  the 
town,  and  a  merchant  of  Stockholm  ;  the  interior  con- 
tains about  1800  sittings,  of  which  sixty-two  are  free. 
The  church  of  St.  James  was  erected  in  1836,  at  an  ex- 
pense of  £1200,  raised  by  subscription;  and  a  portion 
of  the  parish,  comprising  an  area  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  long,  and  of  nearly  equal  breadth,  and  containing  a 
population  of  2236,  was  for  a  short  time  assigned  to  it 
-as  an  ecclesiastical  district,  by  authority  of  the  pres- 
bytery. It  is  a  neat  structure,  containing  1 1 34  sittings, 
of  which  100  are  free  ;  and  the  stipend  of  the  minister, 
derived  from  seat-rents,  is  £80  per  annum,  to  be  ad- 
vanced to  £100  when  the  funds  will  permit.  An  epis- 
copal chapel  was  built  in  1824  ;  it  has  3S0  sittings,  and 
is  under  the  superintendence  of  the  Bishop  of  Dunkeld. 
There  are  also  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church  and  United  Secession,  and  for  Indepen- 
dents ;  and  an  old  house  has  recently  been  purchased, 
and  fitted  up  as  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  in  which 
service  is  occasionally  performed.  The  parochial  school 
affords  instruction  to  about  eighty  children  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  an  allowance  of  £8.  15.  in 
lieu  of  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £25 
per  annum.  There  are  likewise  three  burgh  schools, 
the  master  of  one  of  which  has  a  salary  of  £40 ;  the 
other  masters  have  each  a  school-room  rent-free,  but 
are  not  in  receipt  of  any  salary.  A  considerable  income 
arises  from  land  purchased  with  a  bequest  of  Mr.  Strang, 
in  1650,  for  distribution  among  the  poor.  In  the  vici- 
nity are  the  remains  of  two  Roman  camps,  between 
440 


which  a  causeway  was  continued  for  some  way  through 
this  parish  ;  and  nearly  at  an  equal  distance  from  each, 
are  remains  of  a  Pictish  camp  of  large  extent,  of  which 
the  rampart  and  fosse,  extending  from  Loch  Forfar  to 
Loch  Restenneth,  are  said  to  have  been  formed  by  the 
Picts  under  Feredith,  to  protect  their  camp  from  the 
Scots  under  Alpin,  prior  to  the  battle  of  Restenneth. 

FORFARSHIRE,  a  maritime  county,  in  the  east  of 
Scotland,  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  counties  of  Aber- 
deen and  Kincardine ;  on  the  east,  by  the  German 
Ocean  ;  on  the  south,  by  the  Frith  of  Tay  ;  and  on  the 
west,  by  Perthshire.  It  lies  between  56°  27'  and  57° 
(N.  Lat.)  and  2°  28'  and  3°  22'  (W.  Long.),  and  is  about 
38|  miles  in  length,  and  37^  in  extreme  breadth,  com- 
prising an  area  of  S40  square  miles,  or  537,600  acres  ; 
3S,255  houses,  of  which  36,184  are  inhabited;  and  con- 
taining a  population  of  170,520,  of  whom  79,375  are 
males,  and  91,145  females.  This  district,  which  was 
formerly  called  Angus,  is  said  to  have  received  that 
name  from  Angus,  brother  of  Kenneth  II.,  to  whom  it 
was  granted  by  that  monarch,  after  his  victory  over  the 
Picts  ;  and  it  continued  for  many  generations  to  be 
governed  by  a  succession  of  thanes,  of  whom  Macbeth, 
the  associate  of  Macduff,  Thane  of  Fife,  in  the  murder 
of  Duncan,  was  the  last.  The  county  was  subsequently 
governed  by  earls,  of  whom  Gilchrist,  the  first  earl, 
flourished  in  the  reign  of  Malcolm  III.,  and  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  son,  the  second  earl,  who  attended  David  I. 
at  the  battle  of  the  Standard,  in  1138.  The  earldom 
was,  by  Robert  II.,  conferred  on  the  Douglas  family ; 
and  at  present,  the  shire  gives  the  inferior  title  of  Earl 
to  the  Duke  of  Hamilton.  Prior  to  the  Reformation, 
the  county  was  included  in  the  diocese  of  Brechin  ;  it  is 
now  in  the  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns,  and  comprises 
several  presbyteries,  and  about  fifty-five  parishes.  For 
civil  purposes  it  is  divided  into  the  districts  of  Forfar 
and  Dundee,  in  each  of  which  towns  is  a  resident  she- 
riff-substitute ;  and  it  contains  the  royal  burghs  of 
Forfar,  which  is  the  county  town,  Dundee,  Arbroath, 
Montrose,  and  Brechin,  and  the  market-towns  of  Kir- 
riemuir and  Glammis,  with  several  smaller  towns  and 
villages.  Under  the  act  of  the  2nd  of  William  IV., 
the  county  returns  one  member  to  the  imperial  par- 
liament. 

The  surface  is  boldly  varied.  Towards  the  north 
it  forms  part  of  the  Grampian  range,  here  called  the 
Binchennin  hills,  of  which  Catlavv,  the  highest,  has  an 
elevation  of  2264  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  :  this 
portion  of  the  county,  known  as  the  Braes  of  Angus, 
is  a  wild  pastoral  district,  though  less  bold  and  rugged 
than  others  in  the  country.  Nearly  parallel  with  these 
heights  are  the  Sidlaw  hills,  supposed  to  be  a  continua- 
tion of  the  Ochil  range,  and  of  less  height  than  the 
Binchennin,  few  of  them  attaining  more  than  1400  feet 
above  the  sea.  Between  the  two  ridges  is  the  beautiful 
and  fertile  valley  of  Strathmore,  called  here  the  Howe  of 
Angus,  extending  for  nearly  thirty-three  miles  in  length, 
and  varying  from  six  to  eight  miles  in  breadth,  diver- 
sified with  gentle  eminences,  fruitful  fields,  pleasing  vil- 
lages, and  handsome  seats,  surrounded  with  flourishing 
plantations.  The  district  between  the  Sidlaw  hills  and  the 
coast  is  a  level  tract  of  great  fertility,  from  three  to  eight 
miles  in  breadth,  and  in  the  highest  state  of  cultivation. 
The  principal  valleys  are,  Glenisla,  Glenprosen,  Glenesk, 
Lethnot,  and  Clova,  all  of  which  are  watered  by  streams 


FO  11  F 


FO  R  G 


descending  from  the  mountains.  The  chief  rivers  are 
the  North  and  South  Esk,  which  have  their  sources  on 
the  northern  confines  of  the  county.  The  former,  issu- 
ing from  Lochlee,  receives  the  waters  of  the  Unich, 
which  in  its  course  forms  numerous  picturesque  cas- 
cades ;  it  then  flows  through  the  vale  of  Glenesk, 
between  banks  crowned  with  trees  of  birch,  into  the 
county  of  Kincardine,  and  falls  into  the  sea  about  three 
miles  to  the  north  of  Montrose :  its  tributaries  are,  the  Lu- 
ther, the  Cruick,  the  West  Water,  the  Tarf,  and  the  Mark. 
The  South  Esk  has  its  rise  near  that  of  the  North  Esk, 
and,  running  through  the  centre  of  the  county,  receives 
the  Noran,  the  Lemno,  the  Carity,  and  the  Prosen, 
and  joins  the  sea  at  Montrose.  The  river  Isla  rises  to 
the  west  of  the  sources  of  the  Esks,  and,  after  being  fed 
by  the  waters  of  the  Meigle,  the  Dean,  the  Carbet,  and 
the  burn  of  Glammis,  flows  westward  into  the  Tay  at 
Kinclaven.  The  Dighty  and  Lunan  are  of  inferior  cha- 
racter, the  former  issues  from  some  small  lakes  in  the 
parish  of  Lundie,  and  runs  into  the  river  Tay  to  the 
east  of  Broughty-Ferry  ;  and  the  latter,  having  its  source 
in  the  lakes  of  Rescobie  and  Balgives,  flows  into  the 
sea  at  Lunan  bay.  Most  of  the  rivers  abound  with 
trout  and  salmon,  and  the  Lunan  with  eels.  There  are 
also  numerous  lakes  in  the  county,  but  few  of  them  are 
more  than  a  mile  in  circumference  ;  the  principal  are, 
Lochlee,  Loch  Brandy,  Loch  Forfar,  and  the  Lochs 
Rescobie  and  Balgives. 

About  three-fifths  of  the  land  are  under  cultivation  ; 
20,000  acres  are  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the 
remainder  mountain  pasture  and  waste  ;  the  soil  on  the 
hills  is  heathy  moor,  but  in  the  valleys  rich  and  fertile. 
The  lands  have  been  greatly  benefited  by  draining,  and 
abundant  crops  of  every  kind  are  raised  :  wheat,  which 
formerly  was  very  little  cultivated,  is  now  grown  in 
large  quantities,  and  of  excellent  quality;  the  various 
improvements  in  husbandry  have  been  generally  adopted, 
and  the  system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  very  advanced 
state.  Considerable  attention  is  paid  to  live  stock ; 
numbers  of  sheep  of  various  breeds  are  pastured  on  the 
Grampian  and  Sidlaw  hills,  and  on  the  former  is  reared 
a  small  breed  of  horses  called  Garrons.  The  plantations 
consist  of  oak,  beech,  birch,  and  other  trees,  which  have 
nearly  superseded  the  larch  ;  and  the  improvement  of 
the  soil  has  adapted  it  to  the  growth  of  timber  of  all 
kinds.  The  principal  substrata  are,  limestone,  freestone, 
and  sandstone  of  good  quality  for  flags ;  the  limestone 
is  extensively  wrought  in  several  places,  but  its  use  for 
manure  has  in  some  degree  been  diminished  by  the 
introduction  of  bone-dust,  of  which  great  quantities  are 
prepared  at  Arbroath  and  Dundee,  and  shell-marl  is 
found  in  the  lakes,  for  the  procuring  of  which  some  of 
them  have  been  drained.  Lead-ore  was  formerly  obtained 
in  the  upper  part  of  the  parish  of  Lochlee,  and  copper-ore 
has  been  found  in  the  Sidlaw  range.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  Forfarshire  is  £479,268.  The  seats  are, 
Glammis  Castle,  Cortachie  and  Airlie  Castles,  Camper- 
down  House,  Lindertis,  Isla  Bank,  Gray,  Careston,  Bal- 
namoon,  Brechin  Castle,  Panmure  House,  Kinnaird, 
Dun,  Rossie,  Ethie,  Guthrie,  Dunnichen,  Isla,  Craigo, 
Langley  Park,  and  various  others.  The  principal  manu- 
factures are,  the  weaving  of  linen  and  the  coarser  fabrics, 
as  huckaback,  canvass,  dowlas,  sheeting,  and  sacking,  of 
which  great  quantities  are  exported  ;  the  manufacture 
of  fine  coloured  thread  ;  and  the  bleaching  of  linen,  for 
Vol.  I.— 441 


which  there  are  extensive  grounds  on  the  banks  of  the 
several  streams.  Numerous  mills  for  the  spinning  of 
flax  are  in  operation,  driven  by  water  and  steam  : 
there  are  large  tanneries,  breweries,  distilleries,  and 
other  works  ;  and  ship-building  is  pursued  at  the  ports 
of  Dundee,  Arbroath,  and  Montrose.  There  are  valu- 
able fisheries  along  the  coast,  and  salmon-fisheries  in 
the  Frith  of  Tay.  Facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  good  roads  in  various  directions,  and  by  railways, 
of  which  the  Arbroath  and  Forfar  railway  was  opened 
in  1839,  and  the  Dundee  and  Arbroath  railway,  nearly 
one  continued  level  along  the  coast,  in  1840.  There  are 
some  remains  of  the  cathedral  of  Brechin,  and  near 
them  a  round  tower  supposed  to  be  of  Pictish  origin ; 
the  county  also  contains  the  ruins  of  numerous  ancient 
castles,  of  the  abbey  of  Arbroath  and  similar  religious 
establishments,  tumuli,  cairns,  Druidical  altars,  and 
various  other  remains  of  antiquity,  which  are  described 
in  the  articles  on  the  parishes. 

FORGAN,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  St.  Andrew's, 
county  of  Fife,  9  miles  (N.  E.  by  E.)  from  Cupar;  con- 
taining, with  the  villages  of  East  and  West  Newport,  and 
Woodhaven,  1219  inhabitants.  This  place  is  supposed 
to  have  derived  its  name,  signifying  in  the  Saxon  lan- 
guage "afore-ground,"  from  the  elevated  and  conspi- 
cuous situation  which  it  occupies  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  Tay.  For  many  generations  it  was  the  property 
of  the  Nairnes,  who  held  distinguished  offices  in  the 
state,  and  one  of  whom  was  elevated  to  the  peerage 
of  Scotland  in  the  time  of  Charles  I.  The  estate  of 
St.  Fort,  with  other  lands  in  the  parish  belonging  to 
that  ancient  family,  was  sold  at  the  beginning  of  the 
last  century  ;  but  the  title,  which  had  become  forfeited 
during  the  rebellion  of  1745,  was  restored  in  the  reign 
of  George  IV.  The  St.  Fort  estate  is  now  in  the  hands 
of  Henry  Stewart,  Esq. ;  and  the  only  portion  of  the 
original  possessions  which  is  still  the  property  of  the 
Nairne  -family,  is  the  small  estate  of  Morton.  The 
parish  is  six  miles  in  length  and  above  two  in  breadth; 
it  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Tay,  and  com- 
prises 5000  acres,  of  which  4000  are  arable  and  in  pro- 
fitable cultivation,  600  pasture  and  meadow,  and  400 
woodland  and  plantations.  The  surface  is  in  some 
parts  pleasingly  undulated,  and  in  others  agreeably 
diversified  with  level  plains  :  of  the  rising  grounds  the 
most  elevated  are  the  eminences  of  St.  Fort  and  New- 
ton, which  are  about  300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  scenery  is  richly  varied,  and  from  the  higher  lands 
are  fine  views  over  the  river,  which  skirts  the  parish  for 
nearly  four  miles ;  the  shore  is  bold  and  rocky,  and 
indented  with  several  bays,  of  which  the  chief  are, 
Woodhaven  and  Newport,  where  convenient  harbours 
have  been  constructed,  and  Wormit  bay,  which  bounds 
the  western  extremity  of  the  parish. 

The  soil  is  generally  fertile,  consisting  of  black  loam 
interspersed  with  clayey  mould,  and  in  some  parts  of  a 
light  gravelly  kind,  in  which  are  found  occasionally 
large  boulders  of  trapstone.  The  system  of  agriculture 
is  in  a  very  advanced  condition ;  the  rotation  plan  of 
husbandry  is  practised,  and  every  improvement  in  the 
management  of  the  lands  is  speedily  adopted.  The 
crops  are,  barley,  oats,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips, 
which  are  usually  favourable  and  abundant ;  and  the 
surplus  produce  of  grain  finds  a  ready  sale  in  the  mar- 
kets of  St.  Andrew's,  Cupar,  and  Dundee.     The  cattle 


F  O  R  G 


F  O  R  G 


are  principally  of  the  Fifeshire  breed,  with  a  slight  mix- 
ture of  the  Angus,  Ayrshire,  and  Teeswater,  which  last, 
however,  are  by  no  means  suited  to  the  soil ;  the  sheep 
.are  of  the  Cheviot  and  Leicestershire  breeds.  The 
plantations  have  been  lately  much  extended,  especially 
on  the  lands  of  St.  Fort  and  Tayfield ;  they  consist 
chiefly  of  fir,  though  the  soil  is  well  adapted  for  oak, 
ash,  chesnut,  and  beech  :  there  are  few  trees  of  remark- 
able growth,  except  some  yew-trees  at  Kirkton,  which 
are  unrivalled  specimens  of  the  kind.  The  farm-houses 
and  offices  are  mostly  superior ;  and  several  of  them, 
of  more  recent  erection,  are  handsome  and  exceedingly 
convenient.  Considerable  progress  has  been  made  in 
inclosing  the  lands,  but  much  yet  remains  to  be  done  in 
this  respect ;  the  fences  are  principally  of  stone,  with 
a  few  of  hedges,  and  are  generally  well  kept.  The 
substrata  are,  sandstone,  whinstone,  and  greenstone, 
which  last  is  extensively  quarried  for  building  and 
for  other  purposes  :  there  is  neither  freestone  nor  lime- 
stone in  the  parish,  but  lime  for  agricultural  uses  is 
brought  by  sea  from  various  places,  and  freestone  from 
the  quarries  in  Angus.  The  greenstone  is  fine  grained, 
compact,  and  of  deep  colour ;  and  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  are  rocks  of  amygdaloidal  greenstone,  in  which 
are  found  metals,  and  quartz  resembling  agate.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £7914. 

St.  Fort,  the  residence  of  Mr.  Stewart,  is  a  spacious 
and  handsome  mansion  in  the  Elizabethan  style  of 
architecture,  recently  erected,  and  pleasantly  situated 
in  a  demesne  enriched  with  flourishing  plantations. 
Tayfield  is  also  a  handsome  mansion,  lately  enlarged 
and  embellished,  and  beautifully  seated  on  the  bank  of 
the  Tay,  of  which  it  commands  an  extensive  view,  with 
the  varied  and  romantic  scenery  of  the  adjacent  lands, 
thickly  interspersed  with  pleasing  cottages.  A  salmon- 
fishery  is  still  carried  on;  but  since  the  prohibition  of 
stake-nets,  it  is  neither  so  abundant  nor  so  profitable  as 
formerly,  and  at  present  scarcely  affords  to  the  pro- 
prietor a  rental  of  £  1 50  per  annum  :  the  fish,  which 
are  of  very  superior  flavour,  and  in  great  demand,  are 
sent  to  Dundee,  where  they  are  packed  in  ice  and  for- 
warded by  steam-boats  to  London.  A  very  large  shoal 
of  herrings  was  formerly  found  in  the  Tay,  near  New- 
port ;  but  none  have  appeared  within  the  last  fifty  years. 
The  weaving  of  linen  is  carried  on  upon  a  limited  scale, 
affording  employment  to  about  twenty  or  thirty  persons, 
who  work  at  their  own  homes  for  the  manufacturers 
of  Dundee.  Facility  of  intercourse  with  the  neighbouring 
market-towns  is  afforded  by  excellent  roads,  of  which 
the  principal  road  from  the  north-eastern  part  of 
the  country  to  Edinburgh  extends  for  nearly  three  miles 
through  the  parish,  passing  by  the  ferry  at  Newport, 
from  which  place  communication  with  Dundee  is  main- 
tained by  steam-boats,  which  ply  hourly,  and  have  alto- 
gether superseded  the  sailing- packets  formerly  in  use. 
A  ferry  from  Woodhaven  to  Dundee  was  also  once  kept 
up ;  but,  being  attended  with  great  inconvenience,  an 
act  of  parliament  was  obtained  a  few  years  since  for  its 
discontinuance,  and  for  the  establishment  of  that  of 
Newport  as  the  only  ferry.  The  parish  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  St.  Andrew's  and  synod  of  Fife,  and  patronage 
of  the  Crown  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £230.  19.  8.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  about  nine  acres.  The  old  church, 
situated  in  a  pleasing  and  sequestered  spot,  at  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  the  parish,  formerly  belonged  to  the 
442 


priory  of  St.  Andrew's,  and  is  said  to  have  been  built  on 
that  site  for  the  accommodation  of  a  family  residing  in 
the  neighbouring  mansion-house  of  Kirkton,  and  who 
contributed  largely  towards  the  expense  of  its  erection. 
This  edifice  has  been  suffered  to  go  to  ruin,  as,  from 
the  inconvenience  of  its  position  for  the  generality  of 
the  parishioners,  a  new  church  was  erected  in  1S41  in  a 
more  central  part  of  the  parish.  There  is  a  place  of 
worship  near  Newport  for  a  congregation  of  Indepen- 
dents. The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  to  about 
120  children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  the 
fees,  and  a  good  dwelling-house  and  large  garden :  an 
excellent  school-house  was  recently  erected  in  a  conve- 
nient situation,  upon  the  completion  of  which  the  num- 
ber of  scholars  considerably  increased.  There  are 
numerous  cairns  and  tumuli,  though  none  of  them 
have  been  fully  explored  ;  and  in  forming  the  road  to 
Newport,  several  urns  of  rude  workmanship  were  dis- 
covered. 

FORGANDENNY,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county  of 
Kinross,  but  chiefly  in  that  of  Perth,  3§  miles  (W.)  from 
Bridge  of  Earn  ;  containing  796  inhabitants,  of  whom, 
66  are  in  the  village.  This  parish  is  about  ten  miles  in 
length,  and  two  in  average  breadth,  and  comprises 
12,800  acres,  of  which  2000  have  never  been  cultivated. 
It  is  divided  into  the  upper  and  lower  districts  ;  the 
former  comprehends  a  part  of  the  Ochils,  covering  fully 
three-fourths  of  the  surface  of  the  parish ;  and  the 
latter,  stretching  from  the  foot  of  these  hills,  on  the 
south,  to  the  river  Earn,  on  the  north,  consists  of  a  well- 
cultivated  tract,  somewhat  similar  to  the  Carse  of 
Gowrie.  The  scenery  is  good,  on  account  of  the  beau- 
tiful variations  of  the  surface  ;  the  land  gradually  rises 
from  the  river  southward,  and  the  acclivities  of  the 
Ochils  by  degrees  attain  the  height  of  1000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  Considerable  beauty  is  also  con- 
ferred on  the  scenery  by  the  course  of  the  picturesque 
Earn,  which  is  well  stocked  with  salmon,  sea-trout,  and 
other  varieties,  with  whiting,  pike,  and  eels  ;  and  be- 
sides this  river,  the  May,  a  fine  mountain  stream  rising 
in  Auchterarder,  enters  the  parish  at  its  south-western 
extremity,  and  flows  northward  in  the  direction  of 
the  Earn  :  it  contains  a  large  supply  of  fine  trout. 
The  higher  district  is  cold,  its  soil  light,  and  though 
it  bears  good  crops  of  other  grain,  wheat  is  never  sown 
here  ;  but  on  the  lower  grounds  all  kinds  of  white  and 
green  crops  are  produced  of  excellent  quality,  the  soil 
being  rich  and  strong.  Much  of  the  hilly  waste  has 
been  recently  laid  down  in  excellent  sheep  pastures  : 
some  of  the  highest  grounds  have  been  made  to  yield 
fine  crops  of  turnips,  and  have  been  inclosed  with  wire 
fences  ;  and  furrow-draining  has  been  much  practised 
in  the  lower  parts  of  the  parish,  where,  also,  the  farm- 
buildings  are  almost  entirely  constructed  after  an 
improved  method.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £5879,  of  which  £340  are  for  the  Kinross- 
shire  portion.  Trap  rocks  constitute  nearly  the  whole 
of  the  substrata ;  but  they  are  so  soft  and  friable  as  to 
be  almost  useless,  even  for  the  building  of  stone  fences, 
or  any  other  purpose  except  the  repair  of  roads.  The 
old  red  sandstone  lies  under  this  rock,  though  at  too 
great  a  depth  to  admit  of  quarrying ;  in  the  upper  dis- 
trict are  to  be  seen  beautiful  specimens  of  conglomerate, 
and  numerous  blue  and  purple  pebbles  appear  in  the 
decomposed  trap.     A  thin  vein  of  limestone  exists  on 


FORG 


FORG 


the  estate  of  Dambuils,  but  on  account  of  its  sandy 
character,  and  the  distance  of  coal,  it  is  not  wrought : 
copper  is  said  to  have  been  formerly  obtained  in  the 
wood  of  Condie,  though  no  traces  of  it  are  now  visible. 
The  natural  wood  covers  about  forty  acres,  and  400 
are  in  plantations,  comprising  the  trees  usually  grown 
in  the  country. 

The  mansion  of  Freeland,  belonging  to  Lord  Ruthven, 
is  a  modern  residence,  having  been  remodelled  about 
1S34 ;  and  that  of  Condie,  an  ancient  structure,  has 
received  some  recent  additions  :  the  other  mansions  are 
Rossie  and  Torrance,  the  former  erected  about  eighty 
years  since,  and  the  latter  about  fifty.  The  population 
are  entirely  agricultural :  besides  the  village  of  Forgan- 
denny,  there  is  a  small  hamlet  in  the  Ochils,  called  Path- 
Struie,  or  the  Path  of  Condie.  The  road  from  Stirling 
to  Bridge  of  Earn  passes  through  the  former  village, 
and  affords  facility  for  the  conveyance  of  the  produce, 
which  is  disposed  of  at  Perth,  Newburgh,  in  Fifeshire, 
and  sometimes  at  Kinross.  The  parish  is  in  the  pres- 
bytery of  Perth  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling,  and 
in  the  patronage  of  the  Crown  :  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £200,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  six  acres,  valued 
at  £15  per  annum.  The  church,  a  plain  edifice  of  con- 
siderable antiquity,  was  formerly  one  of  the  eleven 
prebendal  churches  of  Dunkeld  cathedral ;  it  has  lately 
undergone  repair,  and  accommodates  410  persons. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church  and  the  United  Secession.  The  parochial 
school,  situated  in  the  village  of  Forgandenny,  affords 
instruction  in  the  usual  branches ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  £10  fees. 
There  is  also  a  school  at  the  Path  of  Condie,  instituted 
by  an  act  of  the  presbytery  of  Perth,  dated  1660,  and 
confirmed  by  the  privy  council  in  1663,  empowering  the 
heritors  to  appropriate  the  vacant  stipend  of  1659  to 
its  endowment ;  the  money  was  placed  at  interest  for 
the  payment  of  the  teacher,  and  was  augmented  by  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Willison,  a  late  incumbent,  who  made  a 
bequest  of  a  small  field,  producing  £7.  10.  annually. 
A  library  of  religious  books,  and  one  of  miscellaneous 
works,  are  attached  to  the  parochial  school.  On  the 
north,  side  of  the  Ochils  is  a  hill  on  which  formerly 
stood  an  important  fortification,  supposed  by  some  to 
have  been  of  the  vitrified  class,  but  considered  by  most 
as  Danish.  Its  boundary  line,  once  formed  by  a  circular 
stone  wall,  circumscribes  an  area  170  yards  in  diameter  ; 
and  the  hill,  called  Castle-Law,  commands  most  extensive 
prospects,  embracing  the  mouth  of  the  Tay  and  the 
German  Ocean,  on  the  east ;  Strathearn,  to  the  Gram- 
pian mountains,  on  the  west ;  a  large  part  of  the 
counties  of  Perth  and  Angus,  on  the  north  and  north- 
east ;   and  the  Lomond  hills,  on  the  south. 

FORGLEN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Banff, 
1  mile  (w.  by  N.)  from  Turriff,  on  the  road  to  Banff ; 
containing  771  inhabitants.  This  place  is  called  also 
Teunan,  from  St.  Eunon,  to  whom  a  chapel,  of  which 
there  are  still  some  vestiges  remaining,  is  said  to  have 
been  dedicated.  It  is  bounded  on  the  south  and  east 
by  the  river  Doveran,  which  has  its  source  in  the 
mountains  of  Aberdeenshire,  and,  after  receiving  in  its 
course  through  the  parish  numerous  streams  from  the 
high  grounds,  falls  into  the  Moray  Frith  at  Banff.  The 
parish  is  five  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  from  south- 
east to  north-west,  and  about  four  miles  in  breadth, 
443 


and  contains  7234  acres,  of  which  3617  are  in  a  state 
of  profitable  cultivation,  1433  in  plantations,  1055  waste 
land  and  pasture,  and  about  1130  capable  of  being  re- 
claimed and  cultivated  at  a  moderate  expense.  The 
surface  is  pleasingly  undulated,  and  the  soil,  though 
light,  is  fertile  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  improved ; 
the  principal  crops  are  barley  and  oats,  and  wheat  has 
recently  been  raised,  but  not  in  sufficient  quantities  to 
remunerate  the  grower.  Considerable  attention  is  paid 
to  the  rearing  of  live  stock ;  the  cattle  are  of  the 
Aberdeenshire  and  Buchan  breeds,  with  some  of  the 
Teesvvater,  Dunrobin,  and  Galloway ;  the  sheep  are 
generally  of  the  Highland  breed,  which  has  been  bene- 
fited by  the  introduction  of  the  Cheviot,  Merino,  and 
Leicestershire  kinds.  Much  progress  has  been  made 
in  inclosing  the  lands,  but  the  chief  fences  are  of  stone, 
and  the  farm-buildings  are  indifferent.  There  are  quar- 
ries of  clay -slate  in  several  parts,  worked  for  various 
purposes.  The  salmon-fishery  on  the  Doveran  was  for- 
merly extensive  and  profitable ;  but  it  has  greatly 
diminished  within  the  last  few  years,  and  the  annual 
rental  for  an  extent  of  three  miles  of  the  river  is  at 
present  not  more,  than  £5.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  Forglen  is  £3210.  Over  the  several  rivulets  that 
intersect  the  parish  are  bridges  in  good  repair ;  and 
across  the  Doveran  is  a  substantial  bridge  of  red  sand- 
stone, erected  in  1826,  at  an  expense  of  £2503,  and 
connecting  this  parish  with  the  post-town  of  Turriff. 
Peat  and  wood  are  the  principal  fuel,  but  coal  is 
brought  from  Banff.  There  is  a  parochial  library, 
containing  a  valuable  collection  of  books  on  religious 
and  general  subjects  ;  and  a  savings'  bank  has  been 
established,  or  rather  revived,  under  the  auspices  of  the 
minister. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Turriff  and  synod 
of  Aberdeen,  and  patronage  of  Sir  R.  Abercromby  ;  the 
stipend  is  £175.  5.  10.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £14  per  annum.  The  church,  erected  in 
1806,  and  situated  on  the  south-eastern  boundary  of 
the  parish,  is  in  good  repair,  and  will  accommodate  a 
congregation  of  from  400  to  500  persons.  The  mem- 
bers of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship.  The 
parochial  school  is  well  attended  ;  the  salary  of  the 
master  is  £34,  with  £30  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden ; 
also  the  interest  of  £100  bequeathed  by  the  Rev.  George 
Bruce,  minister  of  Dunbar,  in  1*93,  and  a  portion  of 
the  Dick  bequest,  producing  about  £30  per  annum. 
There  is  likewise  a  female  school,  in  which  children  are 
taught  to  sew ;  the  building  was  erected  by  subscrip- 
tion. The  poor  of  the  parish  are  eligible  to  admission 
into  the  Aberdeen  infirmary,  for  which  collections  are 
made  annually  at  the  church,  as  also  for  the  Assembly's 
India  Mission,  and  for  the  schools  in  the  Highlands 
and  islands.  From  some  ancient  charters  preserved  in 
the  family  of  Forglen,  it  appears  that  the  lands  of  this 
parish  and  the  patronage  of  the  church  formerly  be- 
longed to  the  abbey  of  Aberbrothock  ;  and,  as  already 
stated,  there  are  still  remains  of  an  old  religious  house, 
by  tradition  assigned  to  St.  Eunon.  At  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  church  are  two  barrows,  which  have  not 
been  opened ;  and  in  constructing  a  road  in  1827,  an 
urn  containing  ashes  was  found.  A  silver  coin  of  the 
size  of  a  crown  piece,  with  the  date  1670,  was  lately 
discovered  in  the  wall  of  an  old  house ;  it  seems  to 
have  been  current  in  the   electorate  of  Cologne.     The 

3  L  2 


FORG 


FORR 


former  house  of  Forglen,  supposed  to  have  heen  origi- 
nally built  about  the  year  1440,  had  over  the  entrance 
the  arms  of  Scotland,  sculptured  in  stone,  with  various 
inscriptions  ;  the  present  mansion,  very  lately  erected, 
is  a  spacious  edifice,  beautifully  situated,  and  surrounded 
with  fine  old  timber. 

FORGUE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Strathbogie, 
county  of  Aberdeen,  65  miles  (N.  E.  by  E.)  from  Huntly ; 
containing  2489  inhabitants.  The  name  of  this  place 
was  originally  written  Forrig,  and  is  supposed  to  be 
derived  from  the  Gaelic  language.  The  parish  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  the  river  Doveran,  which  separates  it 
from  Rothiemay,  in  Banffshire,  and  on  the  south  by  the 
Urie;  it  measures  between  nine  and  ten  miles  in  length, 
and  about  six  miles  and  a  half  at  its  greatest  breadth, 
from  east  to  west,  comprising  9000  or  10,000  acres  mostly 
under  tillage,  and  a  considerable  extent  of  plantations, 
moor,  and  waste.  The  surface  is  diversified  with  knolls 
and  acclivities,  straths  and  holms  ;  and  the  scenery  is 
consequently  picturesque  and  interesting,  except  in  the 
direction  of  the  Foudland  hills,  which  are  in  the  southern 
quarter,  and,  from  their  barren  and  dreary  aspect,  being 
covered  with  stunted  heath,  impress  upon  that  part 
of  the  parish  a  bleak  and  uninviting  appearance.  The 
Foreman,  a  prominent  hill  of  conical  form,  with  its  sides 
well  wooded,  rises  in  the  northern  district,  near  the 
Doveran,  to  the  height  of  1000  feet,  and  commands 
from  its  summit  extensive  and  varied  prospects  :  a  path 
passed  by  Queen  Mary,  when  she  travelled  over  this 
elevation  to  Rothiemay  House,  still  goes  by  the  name 
of  the  Queen's  road.  Rivulets,  many  of  which  abound 
with  trout,  flow  in  every  direction,  and,  after  enlivening 
and  beautifying  the  lands,  fall  into  the  larger  streams. 
The  soil  comprehends  sand,  gravel,  loam,  clay,  and 
moss,  and  the  ground  therefore  differs  very  much  in 
quality  ;  all  kinds  of  grain  and  green  crops  are  raised, 
and  the  rotation  system  is  practised,  with  which  most 
other  agricultural  improvements  have  been  introduced. 
Particular  attention  has  also  been  shown  in  the  rearing 
of  cattle,  of  which  crosses  between  the  pure  Aberdeen- 
shire and  the  short-horned  have  proved  very  successful. 
Many  of  the  farms  are  neatly  fenced,  and  all  well  culti- 
vated ;  and  the  comparatively  inland  situation  of  the 
parish,  it  being  fourteen  miles  from  the  sea,  with  the 
■well  laid-out  grounds  in  tillage,  and  the  ornamental 
and  tastefully-arranged  plantations,  renders  the  appear- 
ance of  the  district  particularly  agreeable.  The  rocks 
consist  of  the  common  stone  found  in  most  of  the 
neighbouring  parishes,  and  limestone,  the  latter  of 
which,  some  time  since,  was  extensively  quarried.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  Forgue  is  £8540. 

The  parish  contains  the  mansions  of  Cobairdy,  Haddo, 
Corse,  Drumblair,  Templeland,  Auchaber,  and  Boynes- 
Mill,  most  of  them  well  built ;  but  the  mansion  of  Fren- 
draught,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Crichton  family,  is, 
in  point  of  situation  and  scenery,  the  most  distin- 
guished residence.  There  are  six  mills,  and  at  Glen- 
dronach  is  a  distillery.  The  turnpike-road  from  Huntly 
to  Banff,  and  another  from  Huntly  to  Aberdeen,  pass 
through  the  parish  ;  the  chief  communication  for  trade  is 
with  Banff,  Portsoy,  Macduff,  Inverury,  and  Huntly,  and 
Sunderland  coal  is  occasionally  imported  for  fuel.  Fairs 
are  held  for  the  sale  of  cattle  and  sheep,  and  for  general 
traffic,  at  Hawkhall,  on  the  third  Tuesday  in  April,  the 
last  Thursday  in  May,  and  the  third  Tuesday  in  Sep- 
444 


tember,  all  O.  S.  Forgue  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Turriff 
and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage  of  Alex- 
ander Morison,  Esq.,  of  Bognie ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £191,  with  an  excellent  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  about 
12  acres,  valued  at  £18  per  annum.  The  church,  situ- 
ated upon  a  gentle  eminence,  is  a  neat,  commodious, 
and  substantial  edifice,  built  in  1819,  and  containing 
900  sittings,  which  are  all  free.  The  members  of  the 
Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship ;  there  is  a  small 
episcopal  chapel,  and  about  seven  miles  from  the 
church  is  a  preaching  station,  belonging  to  Seceders,  but 
now  deserted.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruction 
in  Latin  and  mathematics,  besides  all  the  elementary 
branches ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  a  house,  a 
portion  of  the  Dick  bequest,  and  £20  fees.  There  is  a 
savings'  bank  ;  and  the  poor  enjoy  the  benefit  of  a 
charitable  bequest  of  £20  per  annum.  The  antiquities 
comprise  the  remains  of  several  Druidical  temples ; 
vestiges  of  a  Roman  redoubt,  as  is  supposed  ;  and  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Frendraught,  at  the  con- 
flagration of  the  tower  of  which,  in  1630,  Viscount 
Aboyne,  eldest  son  of  the  Marquess  of  Huntly,  and 
four  others,  perished.  The  Admirable  Crichton,  who 
flourished  about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  is 
said  to  have  been  born  at  Frendraught,  the  principal 
seat  of  the  family,  and  from  which  they  derived  the  title 
of  Viscount. 

FORRES,  a  royal  burgh 

x/fi^fp-^si.   '■'•■•''■    "  ■--■  a[)d  parish,  in  the  county  of 

M^ifS^^^^^.  Elgin,  12  miles  (W.  by  S.) 

from  Elgin;  containing  3711 
inhabitants,  of  whom  2844 
are  in  the  burgh.  This  place, 
of  which  the  name,  in  the 
Gaelic  language,  is  descrip- 
tive of  its  situation  on  the 
river  and  bay  of  Findhorn, 
has  by  some  historians  been 
identified  with  the  Varis  of 
Ptolemy,  and  is  celebrated 
for  its  ancient  castle,  in  which  Duffus,  King  of  Scotland, 
was  treacherously  murdered  by  the  governor,  in  966. 
A  battle  is  said  to  have  taken  place  here  about  the  com- 
mencement of  the  eleventh  century,  between  a  party  of 
Danish  invaders  and  Malcolm  II.  :  it  terminated  in  a 
treat}',  in  commemoration  of  which  an  obelisk  was  raised, 
called  Sweno's  Stone,  elaborately  sculptured  with  devices, 
and  which  is  still  remaining  in  a  very  perfect  state.  Not 
long  afterwards,  the  forces  of  Duncan,  King  of  Scotland, 
were  encamped  on  a  moor  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town ; 
and  on  his  way  to  meet  that  monarch,  Macbeth,  accom- 
panied by  Banquo,  was  met  on  an  adjoining  waste  by 
the  weird  sisters,  as  described  by  Shakspeare  in  his 
tragedy  of  Macbeth. 

The  town,  which  is  situated  on  a  moderately  elevated 
ridge,  consists  partly  of  one  long  street  called  the  High- 
street,  from  which  several  smaller  streets  diverge  on 
both  sides ;  and  is  intersected  throughout  its  whole 
length  by  the  road  from  Elgin  to  Nairn.  The  streets 
are  well  paved,  and  lighted  with  gas  ;  and  the  inhabit- 
ants are  amply  supplied  with  water.  A  public  library 
is  supported  by  subscription,  and  has  a  good  collection 
of  volumes ;  there  is  also  a  newsroom,  well  furnished 
with  daily  journals  and  periodical  publications ;  and  a 
newspaper  called  "The  Forres  Gazette,"  is  published  on 


Burgh  Seal. 


F  O  R  R 


FORR 


the  first  Wednesday  in  every  month.     A  masonic  lodge 
has  been  for  some  time  established,  for  which  an  elegant 
building  has  been  erected  from  a  design  by  Mr.  Simp- 
son, of  Aberdeen,   containing  a  handsome  ball-room,  a 
supper-room,  and  apartments  for  the  meetings  of  the 
brethren.     A  horticultural   society  under  the  patronage 
of  the  Earl  of  Moray  holds  annual  meetings  in  June 
and  September,  when  exhibitions  of  flowers,  fruits,  and 
vegetables  attract  numbers  of  visiters  from  all  parts. 
The  environs  abound  with  pleasingly-diversified  scenery  ; 
and  on  the  highest  of  the  richly-wooded  Cloven  hills, 
near  the   eastern  extremity  of  the  town,  a  lofty   octa- 
gonal tower  of  three  stages,  crowned  with  an  embattled 
parapet,  was  erected  in  1S06,  by  public  subscription,  to 
the   memory   of  Lord  Nelson.      No   manufactures  are 
carried  on  here,  nor  any  trade  except  such  as  is  neces- 
sary for  the  supply  of  the  inhabitants  of  the   town  and 
neighbourhood :   there   are  numerous   handsome  shops, 
amply  supplied  with  merchandise  of  every  kind.     In  the 
immediate  vicinity  are  a  brewery  and  a  distillery ;   and 
in  a  powerful  saw-mill  for  timber,  great  quantities  of 
hexagonal  blocks  for  wood-pavement  have  recently  been 
prepared  for  the  London  market,  and  shipped  from  the 
port  of  Findhorn,  about  five  miles  distant  from  the  town. 
The  older  records  of  the   corporation  are  lost ;  but 
there  is  evidence  of  the  inhabitants  having  obtained  the 
privileges  of  a  royal  burgh  by  charter  of  William  the 
Lion  or  Alexander  II.,  which   was  renewed  by  James 
IV.     The   government,  under  this   charter,  is  vested  in 
a  provost,  three  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and 
eleven  councillors,  who  are  chosen  under  the  provisions 
of  the  Municipal  Reform  act.     There  are  no  incorpo- 
rated trades  ;   and  the  necessity  for  becoming  a  member 
of  the  guildry,  in  order  to  qualify  as  a  burgess,  and  for 
which   the    entrance   fee    had  risen    successively    from 
£2.  10.  to   £13.  10.,  is  no   longer  enforced.     The  ma- 
gistrates  exercise  jurisdiction   in  civil    causes    to    any 
amount,  and  in  criminal  matters  for  petty  offences  and 
breaches  of  the  peace.     The  town-hall,  erected  in  1839, 
on  the  site  of  the  ancient  tolbooth,  in  the  centre  of  the 
High-street,  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  later  English 
style,  with  a  square  tower,  above  which  rises  an  octa- 
gonal turret,  surmounted  with  a  dome.     The  building 
contains  a  spacious  hall   for  holding  the   courts,  with 
apartments  for  the  sheriff  and  justices,  a  council-cham- 
ber, a  record  room,  offices   for  the  town-clerk,   and  ac- 
commodations for  the  post-office.    The  old  gaol,  attached 
to  the  tolbooth,  was  removed  on  the  erection  of  the  pre- 
sent town-hall ;  and  a  small  prison,  containing  two  or 
three  cells  for  the  temporary  confinement  of  criminals, 
has  been  recently  built.     The  burgh  is  associated  with 
the  burghs  of  Fortrose,  Inverness,  and  Nairn,  in  return- 
ing a  member  to  the  imperial  parliament ;   the  number 
of  qualified  voters  is  156.     The  market,  which  is  amply 
supplied  with  grain,  is  on  Tuesday  ;  and  markets  for 
butchers'  meat  and  fish  are  held  daily.     Fairs  for  cattle 
and  horses  occur  on  the  first  Wednesdays  in  January 
and  July,  on  the  third  Wednesdays  in  February,  April, 
May,   and   November,    on   the   fourth  Wednesdays   in 
August  and  September ;  and  for  hiring  servants,  on  the 
Saturday  before  the  22nd  of  November.    The  post-office 
has  a  good  delivery ;   and  facility  of  communication  is 
afforded  by  the  high  road  from  Elgin  to  Nairn;  by  a 
turnpike-road  to  the   sea-port  village  of  Findhorn,  at 
the  mouth  of  Findhorn  bay,  where  the  London  and 
445 


Leith  steamers  call  regularly ;  by  good  district  roads  in 
various  directions;  and  by  an  elegant  chain-bridge  over 
the  river  Findhorn,  constructed  at  an  expense  of  £"000, 
in  1S31,  to  replace  the  former  bridge  of  stone,  which 
had  been  destroyed  by  a  flood  in  1829. 

The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
bay  of  Findhorn,  and  on  the  west  by  the  river  of  that 
name,  is  about  four  miles  in  length,  and  from  one  to 
three  miles  in  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  5200  acres, 
of  which  3300  are  arable,  1200  woodland  and  planta- 
tions, and  the  remainder  moorland   pasture  and  waste. 
The  surface  towards  the  north-west  is  a  perfect  plain, 
only  a  trifling  height  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  in  the 
central  portion,  it  is  diversified  with   gentle  acclivities, 
terminating  in  conical  hills  of  moderate  height ;  on  the 
south-east,  the  land  becomes  more  elevated.     The  river 
Findhorn  has  its  source  in  the  mountains  of  Inverness, 
and,  after  a  course  of  considerable  length,  enters  this 
parish,   and   flowing   northward,    falls   into   the   bay   of 
Findhorn  :  the  only  other  stream  is  the  burn  of  Forres, 
which  rises  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Rafford,  and,  run- 
ning by  the  town,  near  which  it  receives  a  small  tribu- 
tary, also  joins  the  bay.    On  the  Findhorn  is  a  lucrative 
salmon-fishery,  belonging  to  the  Messrs.  Forbes,  of  Aber- 
deen, and  valued  at  £500  per  annum  ;   it  was  greatly 
injured  by  the  flood  in  1S29,  but  has  lately  very  much 
improved.     The  soil  along  the  margin  of  the  bay  and 
the  banks  of  the  river  is  a  rich  deep  loam,  with  a  slight 
admixture  of  clay  ;   in  the   central  parts   of  the  parish, 
a  light   sand  which,  under  good   management,  is  richly 
fertile ;    and   in   the   higher   grounds,   a   retentive   clay, 
alternated  with  sand  and   moss.     The  crops  are,  wheat, 
barley,   oats,  potatoes,   and   turnips ;    and   considerable 
portions  of  the  land  are  cultivated  as  gardens,  in  which 
flowers  and  fruits  of  every  kind  are  raised  with  great 
success.     The   system   of  husbandry  is  in  a  highly  im- 
proved  state,  and  some  of  the  waste  has  been  made  to 
yield   luxuriant  crops   of  grain  ;    the  farm-houses    are 
substantially  built  of  stone,  roofed  with  slate,  and  gene- 
rally   well  arranged,    and    on   most   of  the  farms    are 
threshing-mills,  of  which  one  is  driven  by  steam.     The 
cattle  are  not  confined  to  any  particular  breed,  nor  are 
the  sheep,  and  many  of  the  farmers  change  their  live 
stock    annually :    particular    attention   is   paid    to    the 
management    of  the    dairy-farms,    for   the    produce   of 
which  there  is  a  large  demand.     The  rateable   annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £S4S1.     The  plantations  consist 
of  oak,  ash,  elm,  plane,  and  beech,  interspersed  with 
larch  and  Scotch  fir,  of  which  there  are  some  fine  speci- 
mens  on  the  lands  of  various  proprietors,  particularly 
a  stately  avenue  of  ash-trees  on  the  road  to  Forres  from 
the  west.     The  chief  substrata  are  sandstone  and  lime- 
stone, the  latter  of  which  is  quarried  on  the  farm  of 
Mundole,  where  kilns  have  been  erected  for  burning  it 
into  manure.      Sanquhar  House  is  a  handsome  mansion 
situated  on  an  eminence,  about  a  mile  to  the  south   of 
the  town,  in  a  richty-wooded  demesne  enlivened  by  the 
windings  of  the  burn  of  Forres  :  Invererne,  a  mile  north 
of  the  town,  is  also  a  handsome  modern  residence,  sur- 
rounded by  thriving  plantations.     Forres  House,  a  spa- 
cious   mansion,   is   at   present  in  the   occupation  of  a 
tenant :    Drumduan  is   an   elegant  villa  to  the  east  of 
Forres,  commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  surround- 
ing country. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 


FORT 


FORT 


dence  of  the  presbytery  of  Forres,  of  which  this  place  is 
the  seat,  and  of  the  synod  of  Moray.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  £274,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£25  per  annum ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Moray.  The 
church,  a  plain  structure,  built  in  1775,  and  repaired  in 
1839,  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  contains  1000  sittings. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  the  Free  Church,  United 
Secession,  and  Independents,  and  an  episcopal  chapel. 
The  parochial  and  burgh  schools,  which  are  consolidated 
under  the  patronage  of  the  corporation,  and  held  in  the 
buildings  of  Anderson's  academy,  are  conducted  by  three 
masters,  to  whom  collectively  are  paid  salaries  amounting 
to  £120  per  annum.  The  academy,  for  which  a  handsome 
building  m  the  Grecian  style  of  architecture  was  erected 
in  the  High-street,  was  founded  in  1S24,  and  endowed 
with  property  producing  £130  per  annum,  by  the  late 
Jonathan  Anderson,  Esq.,  of  Glasgow,  for  the  education 
of  children  of  the  parishes  of  Forres,  Rafford,  and  Kin- 
loss.  Of  the  ancient  castle  of  Forres,  which,  after  the 
murder  of  Duffus,  was  demolished,  and  subsequently 
rebuilt,  only  some  slight  vestiges  are  remaining  on  a 
hill  to  the  west  of  the  town.  When  it  ceased  to  be  a 
royal  residence,  the  castle  became  the  possession  of  the 
earls  of  Moray,  from  whom  it  passed,  with  the  property 
attached,  to  the  Dunbars,  hereditary  sheriffs  of  Moray, 
who  resided  in  a  building  intended  to  form  part  of  a 
new  structure,  and  which  is  now,  with  the  lands  belong- 
ing to  it,  owned  by  Sir  Lewis  Grant.  James  Dick, 
Esq.,  who  bequeathed  £140,000,  of  which  the  proceeds 
are  divided  among  the  parochial  schoolmasters  of  the 
counties  of  Elgin,  Banff,  and  Aberdeen,  was  a  native  of 
the  parish. 

FORT- AUGUSTUS,  a  village,  post-town,  and  lately 
a  quoad  sacra  district,  in  the  parish  of  Boleskine  and 
Abertarff,  county  of  Inverness,  131  miles  (N.  W.) 
from  Edinburgh  ;  containing  700  inhabitants.  This 
place,  situated  at  the  south-western  extremity  of  Loch 
Ness,  in  the  middle  part  of  the  county,  derives  its  origin 
from  the  establishment  of  a  garrison  here  in  1729,  for 
the  purpose  of  checking  the  proceedings  of  some  clans 
in  the  neighbourhood  that  were  favourable  to  the  house 
of  Stuart ;  and  is  the  central  of  a  chain  of  forts,  all 
built  with  the  same  design,  across  the  Highlands.  Its 
name  was  given  to  it  in  honour  of  the  then  Prince  of 
Wales,  father  of  George  III.  The  fort,  which  stands  on 
a  peninsula  formed  by  the  rivers  Tarff  and  Oich,  is  of  a 
square  form,  with  bastions  at  the  corners,  on  which  can 
be  mounted  twelve  six-pounders  ;  and  it  is  defended  by 
a  ditch,  with  a  battery,  a  covert-way,  and  glacis.  The 
barracks  are  constructed  for  one  field-officer,  four  cap- 
tains, twelve  subalterns,  and  280  rank  and  file.  In 
1745  the  fort  was  taken  by  the  Highlanders,  and  dis- 
mantled, but  was  soon  repaired,  and  became  the  focus 
of  some  of  those  severe  military  operations  by  which 
the  Highlanders  were  completely  subdued  :  it  is  now 
under  the  charge  of  a  barrack-master  and  a  few  soldiers 
from  Fort- George,  whither  the  guns  were  removed  a  few 
years  since.  The  village  is  seated  behind  the  fort,  on 
the  slope  of  an  alluvial  terrace ;  and,  the  scenery  in  the 
vicinity  is  altogether  of  a  wild  and  mountainous  cha- 
racter. Over  the  Tarff  is  a  bridge,  kept  in  repair  by 
government ;  but  it  was  till  lately  in  a  very  ruinous 
state,  and  dangerous  even  to  foot-passengers.  Fairs 
are  held  on  the  Monday  before  the  second  Wednesday  in 
June,  and  the  20th  of  September,  or,  if  not  on  that  day, 
446 


on  the  Monday  before    the  29th.     A  mission  church, 
containing  368  sittings,  was  built  about   seventy  years 
ago,  partly  by  subscription,  and  partly  by  aid  from  govern- 
ment ;  the  minister's  salary  is  £74  per  annum,  which 
is  chiefly  paid  by  the  committee  for  managing  the  royal 
bounty  ;   and  an    ecclesiastical    district  comprising  the 
whole  of  the  ancient  parish  of  Abertarff  was  until  lately 
attached  to  the  church.     An  excellent  and  commodious 
school-house  and  dwelling  have  been  built  by  subscrip- 
tion.    Several  Roman  coins  were  discovered  in  1767. 
FORT-GEORGE,  Inverness.— See  Campbelton. 
FORT- WILLIAM,  a  royal  fortress  and  a  village,  in 
the  parish  of  Kilmalie,  county  of  Inverness,  30  miles 
(S.  W.)   from  Fort-Augustus,   and  135    (N.  W.  by  W.) 
from  Edinburgh;    containing   1091   inhabitants.     This 
place,  called  also  Maryburgh,  in  honour  of  the  queen  of 
William  III.,  in  whose  reign  the  present  fortress   was 
erected,   and   Gordonsburgli,  from  the  family  of  Gordon, 
on  whose  lands  the  village  is  built,  is  situated  at  the 
eastern  extremity  of  Loch  Eil,  near  the  base  of  Ben- 
Nevis,  and  in  the  heart   of  a   district  abounding  with, 
wildly  romantic    scenery.     The  fortress  stands  on  the 
site  of  an  intrenchment  thrown  up  by  General  Monk, 
during  the  usurpation  of  Cromwell,  and   consists  of  an 
irregular  triangle,  defended  by  a  glacis  and  fosse,  with 
two  bastions,  mounted  with  fifteen  twelve-pounders  ;  it 
has  a  bomb-proof  magazine,   and  barracks  for  the  re- 
ception of  two  field-officers,  two  captains,  four  subalterns, 
and  a  garrison  of  ninety-six  non-commissioned  officers 
and  privates.     It  was  besieged  by  a  party  of  the  rebels, 
under  the  command  of  Captain   Scott,    in   1746  ;  but, 
after  a  resolute  defence  of  five   weeks,  during  which  six: 
men  were  killed  and  twenty- four  wounded,  the  assailants 
raised  the  siege,  and  dispersed.     A  considerable  portion 
of  the  wall  was  undermined  some  few  years  since,  by 
the  impetuous   current   of  the  river  Nevis,  descending 
from  Ben-Nevis  ;  and  the  structure  has  since  that  time 
been  gradually  going  into  decay.     The  village  consists 
of  a  long  narrow  street,  extending  along  the  margin  of 
the  lake,  and  intersected  by  various  smaller  streets ;  the 
inhabitants  are  chiefly  supported  by  the  herring-fishery, 
for  which  the  harbour  affords  considerable  facilities,  and 
a  quay  has  recently  been    constructed,    partly    at   the 
expense    of  the  fishery  commissioners,    and  partly  by 
private  contributions.     A  public   library,  which  has  a 
tolerable  collection  of  standard  works,  is  supported  by 
subscription  ;   and  there  are  some  good  inns  :  one  of  the 
sheriffs-substitute,  whose  jurisdiction  extends  over  part 
of  Argyllshire,  resides  in  the  village,  and  there  are  some 
families  of  respectability  within  the  fortress.     Fairs  are 
held  for  cattle  and  horses  on  the  second  Wednesdays 
in  June  and  November,  and  a  fair  for  sheep  and  wool 
on  the  Tuesday  after  the  second  Thursday  in  July,  all 
of  which  are  well   attended.     A  church   was    recently 
erected,  to  replace  a  former  which  had  been  pronounced 
unsafe  ;  it  is  a  neat  structure   containing  350  sittings, 
and  the  minister  has  a  stipend  of  £100,   of  which  £60 
are  paid  by  the  Committee  of  the   Royal  Bounty,  £20 
by  the  congregation,  and  the  remainder  by  the  heritors. 
There  are  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church,  an  episcopal,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel; 
and  the  parochial  school  is  situated  in  the  village. 

FORTEVIOT,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth, 
5  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Bridge  of  Earn  ;  containing 
638  inhabitants,  of  whom  69  are  in  the  village.     This 


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was  the  seat  of  many  of  the  Pictish  kings,  who  had  a 
palace  at  Haly  Hill,  near  the  site  of  the  present  church  ; 
and  this  palace,  after  the  extinction  of  the  Pictish  mo- 
narchy, and  the  union  of  the  two  kingdoms  by  Kenneth 
Mc  Alpine,  became  the  favourite  summer  residence  of 
several  of  the  Scottish  sovereigns.  Kenneth  resided 
for  many  years  at  the  place,  where  he  ended  his  days  ; 
it  was  afterwards  the  summer  residence  of  Malcolm 
Canmore,  and  several  of  his  successors'  charters  were 
dated  hence.  Previously  to  the  battle  of  Dupplin, 
which  occurred  on  the  31st  of  July,  1332,  Edward 
Baliol  encamped  his  forces  in  a  field  in  this  parish, 
called  the  Miller's  acre ;  and  the  ancient  mill  from 
which  it  took  its  name,  and  the  ford  of  Coblehaugh, 
where  his  army  crossed  the  river,  are  yet  remaining. 
The  eminence  of  Haly  Hill  has  been  considerably  un- 
dermined by  the  river  May,  and  many  portions  of  the 
buildings  of  the  palace  have  been  destroyed ;  but  there 
are  still  some  vestiges,  and  in  several  houses  in  the 
parish  that  were  built  with  the  ruins,  may  be  traced 
numerous  stones  curiously  sculptured  with  antique 
figures,  which  once  formed  part  of  the  royal  resi- 
dence. 

The  parish,  which  is  about  eight  miles  in  length  and 
two  in  breadth,  is  divided  into  three  detached  and  un- 
equal portions  by  the  intervening  parishes  of  Aberdalgie 
and  Forgandenny.  Of  these  portions  the  central  divi- 
sion, in  which  is  the  village,  is  the  largest,  and  is  situ- 
ated on  the  south  of  the  river  Earn ;  another  extends 
into  the  Ochils,  comprising  some  of  the  most  conspi- 
cuous hills  of  the  range;  and  the  third,  lying  to  the 
east  of  Aberdalgie,  and  the  smallest,  is  bounded  on  the 
south  by  the  Earn.  The  surface  is  beautifully  diversified 
with  hill  and  dale :  and  the  scenery,  enriched  with 
wood,  and  enlivened  by  the  windings  of  the  rivers,  is 
in  many  places  strikingly  picturesque.  The  Earn 
crosses  the  whole  breadth  of  the  parish  from  east  to 
west,  and,  frequently  overflowing  its  banks,  does  consi- 
derable damage  to  the  lower  lands.  The  May,  which 
rises  in  the  Ochils,  after  a  course  of  eight  miles  joins 
the  Earn.  In  its  progress,  it  forces  for  itself  a  pas- 
sage through  a  deep  fissure  in  a  rock,  which,  from  the 
rumbling  noise  of  the  waters,  has  obtained  the  appella- 
tion of  the  "  Humble  Bumble;"  and  a  little  above  this 
is  the  linn  of  Muckarsie,  where  the  river  is  precipitated 
from  a  height  of  thirty  feet,  and,  after  heavy  rains,  forms 
a  picturesque  cascade.  The  lands,  of  which  the  soil 
is  various,  are  under  excellent  cultivation,  producing 
favourable  crops ;  the  farms  are  generally  of  large  ex- 
tent, and  the  occupiers  men  of  capital.  The  farm- 
buildings  are  consequently  of  superior  order  ;  and  all 
the  recent  improvements  in  husbandry,  and  in  the  con- 
struction of  agricultural  implements,  have  been  adopted 
to  their  full  extent.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £6301. 

Invermay  House,  the  seat  of  Alexander  H.  M.  Belshes, 
Esq.,  and  for  many  generations  the  seat  of  that  ancient 
family,  is  now  a  handsome  modern  mansion,  beautifully 
situated  on  an  eminence  overhanging  the  river  May,  and 
commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  vale  of  Strathearn, 
with  the  windings  of  its  river,  and  the  romantically- 
diversified  scenery  of  the  adjacent  country.  All  that 
remains  of  the  old  structure  is  apparently  a  ruin,  though 
containing  several  apartments  still  entire,  and  in  good 
preservation,  and  forming  a  pleasing  contrast  with  the 
447 


modern  mansion.  The  grounds  are  tastefully  laid  out, 
and  embellished  with  plantations,  and  with  the  graceful 
course  of  the  river  May,  which  flows  through  the  de- 
mesne. About  a  mile  from  the  house  is  the  sepulchral 
chapel  of  Muckarsie,  the  church  of  that  parish  before  it 
was  united  to  Forteviot,  and  now  the  burial-place  of  the 
family  ;  the  approach  is  by  a  beautiful  avenue  of  lime- 
trees.  The  whole  of  the  grounds  are  kept  in  the  finest 
order,  and  are  open  to  the  public  for  one  day  in  the 
week,  affording  a  favourite  excursion  to  invalids  fre- 
quenting the  neighbouring  wells  of  Pitcaithly.  The 
village  of  Forteviot  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  May,  a  short  distance  from  its  influx  into 
the  Earn,  and  is  neat  and  well  built ;  the  inhabitants 
are  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery 
of  Perth  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling  ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £244,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£6.  15.  per  annum.  The  church,  before  the  Reforma- 
tion, was  attached  to  the  abbey  of  Cambuskenneth,  and 
subsequently  to  the  college  of  St.  Andrew's,  in  whom, 
and  in  the  family  of  Belshes,  of  Invermay,  the  patronage 
of  the  living  is  jointly  vested  :  the  present  edifice  was 
built  about  seventy  years  since,  and  is  a  plain  structure, 
in  good  repair.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  mem- 
bers of  the  Secession  Church  in  the  Ochil  district  of  the 
parish.  The  parochial  school  is  attended  by  about  fifty 
children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house, 
and  an  allowance  of  £2.  2.  9.  in  lieu  of  garden,  the  fees 
averaging  £16  per  annum. 

FORTH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Carnwath, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  S|  miles  (N.  E. 
by  E.)  from  Lanark  ;  containing  357  inhabitants.  This 
is  a  modern  village,  seated  on  the  road  from  Lanark  to 
Whitburn,  and  may  be  almost  regarded  as  an  appen- 
dage to  Wilsontown,  being  chiefly  inhabited  by  persons 
employed  in  the  coal  and  iron  mines  connected  with  the 
extensive  iron-works  of  that  place,  founded  by  the 
Messrs.  Wilson,  of  London,  about  the  year  1780. 

FORTINGAL,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth, 
85  miles  (VV.  S.  W.)  from  Aberfeldy ;  containing,  with 
part  of  the  late  quoad  sacra  districts  of  Foss,  Glenlyon, 
and  Rannoch,  2740  inhabitants.  This  place,  of  which 
the  name  is  of  very  doubtful  origin,  is  historically  dis- 
tinguished only  for  the  conflicts  of  hostile  clans,  and  for 
a  battle  that  occurred  at  Glen-Sassun,  between  the  forces 
of  Robert  Bruce  and  those  of  Edward  of  England.  The 
parish  is  forty  miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  and 
varies  from  thirty  to  thirty-five  miles  in  breadth.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parish  of  Laggan,  in  the 
county  of  Inverness,  and  on  the  north-east  by  that  of 
Blair- Atholl ;  on  the  east,  by  the  parish  of  Dull ;  on  the 
south,  by  the  parishes  of  Kenmore  and  Killin ;  on  the 
west,  by  the  parish  of  Appin,  in  Argyllshire,  and  part  of 
Weem  ;  and  on  the  south-west  by  the  parish  of  Glenor- 
chy.  It  occupies  a  large  portion  of  the  north-western 
district  of  the  county,  including  a  considerable  part  of 
the  great  Caledonian  forest,  and  comprising  an  area  of 
nearly  130  miles  in  circumference.  The  surface  is 
strikingly  diversified  with  mountains  and  valleys,  deep 
sequestered  glens,  and  lakes  of  various  extent,  the  whole 
forming  one  of  the  boldest  and  richest  combinations  of 
scenery  in  the  country.  Exclusively  of  the  lofty  moun- 
tains that  inclose  the  parish  on  the  north  and  south 
sides,  one   vast    and    continuous   range    intersects  the 


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whole  area,  in  a  direction  from  east  to  west,  dividing  it 
into  two  nearly  equal  portions,  of  which  the  northern 
comprehends  the  district  of  Rannoch,  and  the  southern 
those  of  Fortingal  and  Glenlyon.  In  addition  to  the 
principal  chains  which  circumscribe  and  divide  the 
parish,  there  are  numerous  mountains  of  considerable 
magnitude  that  rise  to  a  great  height  in  detached  situa- 
tions ;  and  from  the  summits  of  them  most  magnificent 
views  are  obtained  of  the  amphitheatre  spread  beneath, 
abounding  with  every  variety  of  picturesque  and  roman- 
tic beauty.  The  chief  mountains,  of  which  there  are 
more  than  ten  or  twelve  connected  with  the  parish,  have 
elevations  varying  from  3000  to  3S00  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea ;  the  range  that  intersects  the  parish  is 
not  less  than  seven  miles  in  breadth  at  the  base,  and 
many  of  its  heights  are  more  than  3000  feet  above  the 
sea. 

Of  the  valleys  the  principal  is  Glenlyon,  extending  in 
a  western  direction  for  more  than  thirty  miles,  and 
inclosed  by  mountains  on  each  side,  which  in  some 
parts  of  it  obtrude  so  greatly  as  scarcely  to  allow  suffi- 
cient breadth  for  the  channel  of  the  river  that  flows 
between  their  bases.  There  were  formerly  several  lakes 
in  this  glen,  of  which  Loch  Lyon,  nearly  at  the  head,  is 
the  only  one  now  remaining,  and  is  that  in  which  the 
river  Lyon  has  its  source.  The  valley  is  almost  a  per- 
fect level,  affording  excellent  pasturage  for  sheep,  of 
which  about  20,000  are  generally  fed  ;  the  sides  of  the 
mountains,  also,  are  covered  with  verdure  to  their  very 
summits.  Numerous  dells  branch  off  from  the  glen,  of 
which  some  are  nearly  four  miles  in  length,  and  watered 
by  various  streams,  forming  tributaries  to  the  Lyon. 
One  of  these  streams,  called  Allt-da-ghob,  from  the  dell 
of  that  name,  has,  when  viewed  from  the  hill  on  the 
opposite  side,  a  truly  grand  appearance :  on  being 
swollen  by  rains,  it  rushes  down  the  sides  of  an  abrupt 
precipice,  nearly  500  feet  in  height,  with  tumultuous 
impetuosity,  then  is  totally  lost  in  a  chasm  invisible  to 
the  spectator  from  its  great  depth,  and,  after  successive 
reappearances  as  if  issuing  from  the  brow  of  the  moun- 
tain, runs  violently  down  a  second  precipice,  of  200  feet, 
in  one  continued  sheet,  to  the  level  of  the  glen,  from 
which  it  flows  with  a  tranquil  course  into  the  Lyon. 
The  valley  of  Glenmore,  situated  between  Rannoch  and 
Fortingal,  anciently  formed  part  of  the  forest  of  Sith- 
Chaillinn,  of  which  the  only  vestiges  now  remaining  are 
the  roots  of  trees  once  existing,  which  are  dug  up  in 
great  quantities  for  fuel,  and  also  for  affording  light,  for 
which  purpose  the  roots  of  the  fir-trees  are  well  adapted. 
Many  trunks  of  old  oaks  are  also  found  in  this  glen, 
of  a  black  hue,  and  which,  though  soft  when  first  found, 
harden  on  exposure  to  the  atmosphere  ;  they  are  split, 
and  sold  in  the  markets  for  sharpening  scythes,  for 
which  they  answer  well.  The  valley  of  Fortingal,  whence 
the  parish  takes  its  name,  is  a  fine  level  tract  about 
half  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  six  miles  in  length,  commu- 
nicating by  defiles  with  the  roads  to  Loch  Tay  and 
Glenlyon,  and  with  the  turnpike-road  to  Crieff  and 
Inverness :  with  the  exception  of  these  passes,  it  is 
completely  surrounded  with  mountains.  The  vale  is 
ornamented  with  residences  and  demesnes  tastefully 
arranged,  and  enriched  with  woods  and  plantations; 
and  from  its  great  diversity  of  features  it  is  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  and  interesting  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  The  mountains  by  which  it  is  inclosed  are 
448 


clothed  with  verdure  to  their  summits,  and  contrast 
finely  with  the  level  tracts  of  luxuriant  pasturage,  and 
the  expanse  of  fertile  lands  in  the  highest  state  of  culti- 
vation. 

Of  the  rivers,  the  Tummel  has  its  source  in  Loch 
Rannoch,  and,  while  flowing  through  that  district,  is 
called  the  Water  of  Rannoch  ;  it  is  smooth  and  tranquil 
for  some  miles,  but  becomes  an  impetuous  and  rapid 
current  on  leaving  the  glen,  and,  being  joined  by  the 
Foss,  afterwards  obtains  its  general  appellation.  The 
river  Gamhair  rises  in  the  southern  part  of  Glen  Etive, 
and,  after  a  course  of  several  miles,  in  which  it  forms 
some  smaller  lakes,  expands  into  Loch  Laoidean,  on 
issuing  from  which  it  obtains  its  name  :  pursuing  its 
way  for  about  five  miles,  it  enters  an  extensive  tract  of 
meadow  land,  which  in  rainy  seasons  it  completely  inun- 
dates, and  having  flowed  through  the  inhabited  portion 
of  the  glen,  it  falls  into  Loch  Rannoch.  The  river  Lyon 
has  its  source  in  the  loch  of  that  name,  and,  after  water- 
ing Glenlyon,  and  receiving  in  its  course  of  nearly  forty 
miles  almost  innumerable  streams  from  the  mountains, 
falls  into  the  Tay  below  Taymouth  Castle.  The  Eroclid 
issues  from  the  lake  of  that  name,  and,  after  a  peaceful 
progress  of  about  two  miles,  becomes,  from  the  acces- 
sion of  mountain- streams,  a  rapid  and  impetuous  tor- 
rent, sometimes  bursting  its  banks  with  resistless  vio- 
lence, till  it  forces  its  way  into  Loch  Rannoch.  There 
are  many  smaller  rivers  in  various  parts  of  the  parish  ; 
and  from  the  mountainous  character  of  the  lands 
through  which  they  pass,  and  the  consequent  accumu- 
lation of  their  waters  from  mountain  torrents,  they  are 
all  diversified  in  their  appearance,  and,  from  the  power- 
ful obstructions  to  their  course,  exhibit  waterfalls  in 
numerous  places.  The  falls  of  the  Tummel,  on  the  con- 
fines of  the  parish,  of  the  Lyon,  in  the  glen  of  that 
name,  of  the  Gamhair  and  Duibhe,  at  the  head  of 
Glen  Rannoch,  of  the  Conait,  and  of  the  Keltney,  are 
beautifully  picturesque.  Of  the  lakes  in  this  extensive 
parish,  Loch  Erochd,  to  the  north-east  of  Glen  Rannoch, 
is  sixteen  miles  in  length,  and  about  one  mile  in  average 
breadth ;  it  is  inclosed  on  both  sides  by  lofty  and  pre- 
cipitous ranges  of  rugged  and  barren  mountains,  occa- 
sionally softened  and  enlivened  by  fertile  spots  in  l-ich 
cultivation,  and  by  the  sporting  boxes  of  the  gentry  who 
resort  to  this  place  for  shooting  the  various  kinds  of 
game  with  which  the  mountains  abound.  Loch  Laoi- 
dean is  about  eight  miles  to  the  west  of  Glen  Rannoch ; 
it  is  six  miles  in  length,  and  little  more  than  half  a  mile 
in  breadth,  and  is  studded  with  several  picturesque 
islands,  richly  wooded.  Its  shores  are  indented  with 
numerous  small  creeks,  and  diversified  with  boldly-pro- 
jecting promontories  ;  and  near  the  western  extremity 
of  the  lake  is  an  island  of  yew-trees,  among  which  the 
red  deer  frequently  shelter,  and  the  eagle  rears  its  young. 
Loch  Lyon,  which  is  romantically  situated  in  the  glen  of 
that  name,  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  half  a 
mile  broad  ;  its  shores  abound  with  agreeable  scenery, 
and  though  less  bold,  it  is  more  pleasing  in  its  features, 
being  beautified  with  luxuriant  verdure  and  enriched  by 
cultivation.  Loch  Garry,  on  the  border  of  the  parish, 
eight  miles  from  Glen  Rannoch,  is  about  four  miles  in 
length,  and  half  a  mile  in  breadth ;  its  scenery  is  bold 
and  varied,  but  differs  little  from  that  of  some  of  the 
other  lakes.  In  the  rocks,  and  the  sides  of  the  various 
mountains,  are  many  caves  of  natural  formation,  which, 


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in  the  earlier  periods  of  the  history,  afforded  shelter  to 
the  chiefs  of  hostile  clans  in  their  frequent  conflicts,  and 
in  some  of  which  Sir  William  Wallace  and  King  Robert 
Bruce,  during  the  war  with  England,  concealed  them- 
selves while  watching  for  opportunities  of  attacking 
their  enemies,  or  waiting  after  a  defeat  to  recruit  their 
forces,  and  concert  new  enterprises  for  the  deliverance 
of  their  country.  They  also  provided  a  secure  asylum 
for  numerous  depredators. 

The  soil  varies  according  to  the  elevation  of  the 
lands  ;  in  the  lower  valleys  it  is  generally  dry  and  gra- 
velly ;  on  the  acclivities  of  the  mountains  it  is  thinner, 
but  affords  excellent  pasturage  for  cattle  and  sheep ; 
nearer  the  summits  it  is  a  bleak  sterile  moor,  producing 
but  little  grass,  and  abounding  with  heath  ;  and  the 
summits  of  the  mountains  are  covered  with  moss.  The 
number  of  acres  in  the  parish  is  44S,000  j  but  compara- 
tively little  is  under  regular  cultivation,  the  arable  lands 
bearing  only  a  small  proportion  to  the  pastures,  and 
the  principal  object  of  the  inhabitants  being  the  feeding 
of  cattle  and  sheep,  the  latter  chiefly  of  the  black-faced 
kind,  which  are  more  hardy,  and  thrive  well  on  the 
mountain  pastures.  Particular  attention  is  paid  to  the 
improvement  of  the  breed,  and  also  to  that  of  the  cattle, 
which  are  all  the  West  Highland,  and  at  the  sales 
that  occasionally  take  place  sell  for  high  prices.  Con- 
siderable improvements  have  been  effected  in  the  sys- 
tem of  agriculture  ;  the  farm-buildings  and  offices  are 
substantial  and  commodious  ;  the  lands  are  well  in- 
closed, and  the  fences  kept  in  good  repair.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £13,300.  The  woods 
are  chiefly  the  remains  of  the  ancient  Caledonian  forest, 
which  at  one  time  was  more  than  eighty  miles  in  extent ; 
they  consist  mainly  of  birch  and  native  fir.  The  plan- 
tations, scattered  over  various  parts  of  the  parish,  are 
not,  in  the  aggregate,  of  any  very  great  extent ;  they 
comprise  native  fir,  larch,  and  spruce,  with  some  oak, 
ash,  beech,  elm,  and  birch.  The  substrata  are  lime- 
stone, forming  part  of  the  Grampian  range,  which 
crosses  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish  ;  it  is  of  superior 
quality,  and  is  wrought  for  agricultural  purposes  and  for 
building.  Abed  of  fine  blue  stone  has  been  found,  and 
a  quarry  opened  on  the  lands  of  Mr.  Menzies,  of  Chest- 
hill  ;  marble  of  various  colours  also  occurs  in  several 
parts,  and  rock  crystals,  spars,  and  agates  of  great 
variety  and  beauty  are  obtained  in  the  mountains.  A 
vein  o*f  lead-ore  of  considerable  richness  was  disco- 
vered in  Glenlyon,  and  formerly  wrought  with  success  ; 
near  the  village,  also,  lead-ore  appears  ;  and  slate  is  sup- 
posed to  exist  in  some  places,  but  has  not  been  yet 
explored.  In  the  district  of  Bolfracks.  in  a  detached 
portion  of  the  parish,  is  an  extensive  quarry,  the  stone 
of  which  is  of  superior  quality  for  building  ;  it  is  very 
compact  and  durable,  and  susceptible  of  a  high  polish, 
in  every  respect  resembling  the  stone  of  which  Tay- 
mouth  Castle  is  built. 

In  Glen-Fortingal  are  several  handsome  residences, 
beautifully  encompassed  by  richly-wooded  and  pleasant 
demesnes ;  and  in  Glen-Rannoch  are  likewise  some 
good  seats,  one  of  which  is  situated  in  a  demesne  com- 
prising about  70,000  Scotch  acres.  Communication 
with  the  neighbouring  towns  is  afforded  by  roads  kept 
in  repair  by  statute  labour  ;  the  nearest  great  towns 
are  Crieff  and  Perth,  the  former  about  thirty,  and  the 
latter  forty,  miles  distant.  A  penny-post  has  been 
established  at  Kinloch-Rannoch,  which  communicates 
Vol.  I.— 449 


with  Pitlochry ;  and  at  the  western  extremity  of  Glen- 
Rannoch  is  a  handsome  bridge  over  the  river  Gamhair, 
erected  by  Sir  Neil  Menzies.  Fairs  are  held  at  Kirkton 
in  the  beginning  of  December,  continuing  for  three 
days,  for  the  sale  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats,  and 
the  transaction  of  general  business ;  in  the  end  of 
April,  for  lint  and  clover  seeds  ;  and  in  August,  for 
lambs,  the  first  being  the  principal  market  in  this  part 
of  the  country.  Fairs  are  also  held  at  Kinloch-Ran- 
noch, in  April,  for  cattle ;  in  August,  for  lambs ;  and 
in  October,  for  cattle ;  and  at  Inverwick,  in  the  dis- 
trict of  Glenlyon,  annually  for  sheep.  The  ecclesias- 
tical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
presbytery  of  Weem  and  synod  of  Perth.  The  stipend 
of  the  incumbent  is  £255  ;  the  manse  is  a  handsome 
and  commodious  residence,  and  the  glebe  is  valued  at 
£10  per  annum.  The  church,  a  very  ancient  and  sub- 
stantial structure,  was  repaired  in  1821,  and  is  adapted 
for  a  congregation  of  376  persons.  There  are  two 
government  churches,  situated  respectively  in  Glenlyon 
and  Glen-Rannoch.  The  parochial  school  affords  a 
good  course  of  instruction  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34,  with  a  house,  and  an  allowance  in  money  in  lieu 
of  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £21  per  annum. 
There  are  also  two  schools  under  the  patronage  of  the 
General  Assembly,  and  two  under  that  of  the  Society 
for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge  ;  the  masters  of 
each  of  the  former  have  a  salary  of  £20,  with  a  house, 
and  a  portion  of  land  ;  and  those  of  the  latter  have  a 
salary  varying  from  £15  to  £20,  with  an  allowance  in 
money  for  fuel.  Seven  other  schools,  in  distant  parts 
of  the  parish,  are  supported  by  general  subscription  of 
the  inhabitants.  The  parochial  school-house  is  a  very 
handsome  and  commodious  building,  recently  erected  by 
the  heritors. 

To  the  west  of  Fortingal  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman 
camp,  in  which  the  site  of  the  general's  tent  is  still 
marked  out  by  the  fosse  with  which  it  was  surrounded ; 
the  prsetorium  is  in  good  preservation,  and  north-west 
of  it  is  a  tumulus  sixty  feet  in  length,  and  about  twenty 
feet  wide  at  the  base,  raised  over  the  remains  of  those 
who  fell  in  battle.  A  little  to  the  west  of  the  general's 
tent  are  two  obelisks,  the  one,  about  six  feet  in  height, 
yet  standing,  and  the  other,  eight  feet,  long  since  fallen 
to  the  ground.  This  encampment  occupies  an  area 
of  nearly  ninety  acres.  There  are  some  remains  of 
Druidical  circles  near  the  parish  church,  and  in  various 
parts  of  the  parish  are  others  ;  also  numerous  forts  of 
circular  form,  of  which  the  walls,  built  of  loose  stones, 
are  of  great  thickness ;  the  diameter  within  the  walls 
averages  about  sixty  feet,  and  the  area  is  divided  into 
various  halls  and  smaller  apartments.  These  forts  are 
generally  referred  to  the  time  of  Fingal,  and  are  tradi- 
tionally said  to  have  been  castles  belonging  to  the 
heroes  of  that  chieftain.  There  are  two  ancient  castles, 
though  of  later  date,  the  baronial  residences  of  chiefs 
in  feudal  times  :  one  of  these  is  situated  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a  rock  in  the  east  portion  of  the  parish,  and  was 
the  seat  of  the  brother  of  the  Earl  of  Buchan,  ancestor 
of  the  Stewarts  of  Atholl.  The  other,  situated  in  Glen- 
lyon, is  on  a  lofty  and  precipitous  bank,  and  was  defended 
by  a  drawbridge  ;  it  was,  till  the  middle  of  the  16th 
century,  the  residence  of  Duncan  Campbell,  of  Glenlyon, 
who  was  equally  renowned  for  his  valour  and  his  hos- 
pitality. On  the  lands  of  Inverchadain  are  the  remains 
of  a  mound  of  turf  and  stones,   called  "  Sheomar-na- 

3M 


FORT 


F  O  S  S 


Bursh  Seal. 


Staing,"  where  Wallace,  on  his  route  from  Argyll, 
remained  for  several  days,  attended  by  a  few  of  his 
faithful  adherents,  and  where  he  was  joined  by  the  men 
of  Rannoch,  who  marched  with  his  forces  to  the  battles 
of  Dunkeld  and  Perth.  In  the  churchyard  of  Fortingal 
is  a  very  ancient  yew-tree  of  remarkable  growth,  the 
trunk  of  which  is  divided  into  two  stems,  between  which 
is  an  interval  of  several  feet :  at  a  distance  it  appears 
like  two  distinct  trees,  and  though  partly  injured  at  an 
early  period  of  its  growth,  it  has  attained  to  such  a 
size  that  the  branches  spread  over  an  area  of  nearly 
sixty  feet  in  circumference. — See  Rannoch,  &c. 

FORTROSE,  or  Cha- 
nonry, a  royal  burgh,  and 
lately  a  quoad  sacra  district, 
in  the  parish  of  Rosemarkie, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, 10§  miles  (N.  N.  E.) 
from  Inverness,  and  S(S.S.W.) 
from  Cromarty ;  containing, 
with  the  burgh  of  Rose- 
§fy?  markie,  10S2  inhabitants,  of 
whom  324  are  in  that  burgh. 
This  place,  anciently  the 
Chanonry  of  Ross,  and  the 
seat  of  that  diocese,  was  united  by  charter  of  James  II., 
in  1455,  with  the  town  of  Rosemarkie,  which  had  been 
erected  into  a  royal  burgh  by  Alexander  II.,  and  which 
is  distant  from  it  about  half  a  mile  to  the  east.  The 
united  burghs,  under  the  common  name  of  Fortrose, 
received  a  confirmation  of  all  ancient  privileges  from 
James  VI.,  in  1592;  and  by  charter  of  the  same  mo- 
narch, in  1612,  these  privileges  were  extended,  and  the 
burgesses  invested  with  all  the  liberties  and  immunities 
enjoyed  by  those  of  Inverness.  There  was  anciently  a 
castle  at  Fortrose,  belonging  to  the  earls  of  Seaforth, 
who  were  also  viscounts  of  Fortrose;  but  no  remains 
exist.  Of  the  cathedral,  a  splendid  structure,  only  a 
roofless  aisle  is  now  left,  of  which  one  portion,  con- 
taining the  tombs  of  several  of  the  bishops,  is  preserved 
as  a  burial-place  for  the  families  of  the  Mackenzies  and 
other  landed  proprietors.  To  the  east  of  the  site  of  the 
cathedral,  which  occupied  a  spacious  square,  in  which 
were  the  houses  of  the  canons,  is  a  detached  building 
with  an  arched  roof,  converted  into  the  town-hall,  and 
having,  below,  a  vaulted  apartment  lately  appropriated 
as  the  town  gaol.  The  episcopal  palace,  and  a  great 
part  of  the  cathedral,  were  destroyed  by  Oliver  Crom- 
well, who  sent  the  materials  by  sea  to  Inverness,  for  the 
erection  of  his  fortress  at  that  place. 

The  town,  which  is  situated  on  the  western  bank  of 
the  Moray  Frith,  has  much  declined  from  its  former 
importance,  and  the  principal  trade  now  carried  on  is 
that  of  making  shoes,  in  which,  and  in  the  manufacture 
of  coarse  linen,  and  the  shipping  of  cattle,  salmon, 
and  other  produce,  for  London,  the  greater  number  of 
the  inhabitants  are  employed.  It  is,  however,  beginning 
to  revive,  as  a  bathing  place,  for  which  its  delightful 
and  healthy  situation  renders  it  well  adapted ;  and 
Roderick  Mackenzie,  Esq.,  the  principal  proprietor  in 
the  neighbourhood,  has  lately  made  considerable  im- 
provements, tending  to  enhance  the  beauty  of  the  town. 
A  neat  and  ornamental  water-cistern,  also,  has  just 
been  erected  at  the  cross  of  Fortrose,  from  the  funds 
of  the  burgh.  At  Chanonry  Point,  a  headland  pro- 
jecting deeply  into  the  Frith,  is  a  lighthouse,  near  the 
450 


ferry  to  Fort-George,  on  the  opposite  shore ;  and  a 
small  commodious  harbour,  erected  by  the  parliamen- 
tary commissioners,  is  frequented  by  the  Leith,  Aber- 
deen, and  Dundee  traders.  The  town  of  Rosemarkie, 
though  in  point  of  antiquity  it  has  the  precedence, 
is  -still  inferior  to  Fortrose  in  importance,  and  is  in- 
habited partly  by  persons  occupied  in  fishing.  The 
post-office  has  a  daily  delivery  ;  and  fairs  are  held  in 
April,  June,  and  November.  Facility  of  communica- 
tion is  afforded  by  good  roads  to  Inverness  and  Ding- 
wall, and  by  the  ferry  to  Fort-George  :  steam-vessels 
plying  in  the  Frith,  and  well  fitted  up  for  the  convey- 
ance of  passengers  and  goods,  land  various  kinds  of 
merchandise,  and  convey  the  salmon  taken  here  to 
Aberdeen,  Leith,  and  London,  to  which  last  place  consi- 
derable numbers  of  cattle  are  also  sent. 

The  government  of  the  burgh  is  vested  in  a  provost, 
three  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and  nine 
councillors,  chosen  under  the  regulations  of  the  late 
Municipal  Reform  act.  There  are  no  incorporated 
trades :  the  fees  of  admission  as  burgesses  are,  for 
strangers,  £3.  3.  for  ordinary  trades,  and  £5.  5.  for 
those  of  a  higher  class  ;  and  for  sons  of  burgesses  half 
those  sums.  The  magistrates  exercise  jurisdiction  in 
civil  and  criminal  cases  to  the  usual  extent ;  but  very 
little  business  is  transacted  in  either  of  the  courts.  A 
circuit  sheriff's  court  is  regularly  held  here.  The 
burgh  is  associated  with  those  of  Forres,  Inverness,  and 
Nairn,  in  returning  a  member  to  the  imperial  parlia- 
ment ;  the  number  of  qualified  voters  is  forty-nine.  The 
quoad  sacra  parish  of  Fortrose,  which  included  the 
town  of  Fortrose,  and  a  portion  of  the  adjacent  lands, 
was  separated  from  the  parish  of  Rosemarkie  by  act  of 
the  General  Assembly.  The  church,  a  handsome  and 
substantial  structure,  recently  erected  in  the  town,  by 
subscription,  affords  ample  accommodation  ;  the  minis- 
ter, who  is  appointed  by  the  male  communicants  of 
the  congregation,  derives  his  stipend  from  the  produce 
of  a  fund  bequeathed  for  that  purpose  by  Mr.  Thomas 
Forbes,  and  from  the  seat-rents.  There  are  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  and  Baptists; 
and  an  episcopal  chapel,  in  the  later  English  style  of 
architecture.  The  academy,  under  the  superintendence 
of  a  rector  and  an  assistant,  is  supported  by  subscrip- 
tion, and  is  well  attended. — See  Rosemarkie. 

FORVIE,  county  of  Aberdeen. — See  Slains. 

FOSS,  late  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  partly  in  the  parish 
of  Fortingal,  but  chiefly  in  that  of  Dull,  county  of 
Perth,  8  miles  (N.)  from  Dull ;  containing  450  inha- 
bitants, of  whom  1 1  are  in  Fortingal.  This  district 
was  separated  for  ecclesiastical  purposes,  by  act  of  the 
General  Assembly,  in  1S30,  and  annexed  as  a  quoad 
sacra  parish  to  a  church  erected  here  by  parliamentary 
grant.  The  church  is  situated  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  river  Tummel,  near  the  western  extremity  of  the 
lake  of  that  name  :  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is 
£120,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  the  annual  value  of 
£2.  10. 

FOSSOWAY,  a  parish,  in  the  counties  of  Kinross 
and  Perth,  6  miles  (W.)  from  Kinross,  and  8  (N.  E. 
by  E.)  from  Alloa ;  containing,  with  the  villages  of 
Blairingone,  Crook  of  Devon,  and  Easter  and  Wester 
Gartwhinean,  1724  inhabitants.  This  parish  includes 
the  ancient  parish  of  Tulliebole,  united  with  it  in  1614, 
and  which,  forming  part  of  the  county  of  Kinross, 
divides  Fossoway  into  two  separate  portions.     Of  these, 


F  O  S  S 


FO  S  S 


the  one  lying  to  the  north  of  the  lands  of  Tulliebole, 
comprises  the  barony  of  Fossoway,  with  a  considerable 
part  of  the  Ochil  hills  ;  and  that  on  the  south,  the 
barony  of  Aldie  on  the  east,  and  the  lands  of  Blairin- 
gone  on  the  west,  with  the  valley  between  the  Ochils, 
on  the  north,  and  the  Cleish  and  Saline  hills  on  the 
south.  The  whole  of  the  united  parish  is  eleven  miles 
in  extreme  length,  and  about  ten  miles  in  extreme 
breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  18,6S'2  acres,  of  which 
nearly  11,000  are  arable  and  pasture,  1125  woodland 
and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  waste.  The  surface 
is  diversified  with  hills  of  various  elevation,  of  which 
the  principal  are  from  1000  to  1500  feet  in  height  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  One  of  these,  called  Easter  Down- 
hill, is  of  conical  form,  skirted  round  its  base  with 
natural  wood,  and  covered  with  verdure  to  the  summit; 
and  the  hill  of  Inmerdownie,  which  is  the  highest  in 
the  parish,  commands  an  extensive  prospect,  embracing 
at  one  view  the  rivers  Forth  and  Tay.  Most  of  the 
hills  afford  excellent  pasturage  for  sheep  and  cattle, 
and  the  intervening  valleys  are  richly  cultivated  ;  the 
lower  grounds  are  also  intersected  with  ridges,  rising 
more  or  less  precipitously  to  considerable  degrees  of 
eminence.  The  river  Devon,  which  bounds  the  parish 
for  nearly  nine  miles,  has  its  source  in  the  Ochils,  and, 
after  a  long  and  winding  course,  falls  into  the  river 
Forth  at  Cambus.  The  lands  are  also  watered  by  the 
rivulets  of  North  and  South  Queich  and  the  East  Gair- 
ney,  which  flow  into  Loch  Leven,  and  the  West  Gair- 
ney,  which  joins  the  Devon  near  the  Linn  Caldron.  In 
the  Devon  and  in  the  other  streams  trout  of  good  quality 
are  taken. 

The  scenery  is  boldly  varied,  and  in  some  parts  strik- 
ingly romantic  :  the  river  Devon  forms  several  cascades, 
of  which  one  of  the  principal  is  the  Rumbling  Bridge, 
so  called  from  a  bridge  twenty-two  feet  in  span,  below 
which  the  river,  impeded  in  its  progress  by  projecting 
rocks,  falls  successively  from  various  heights  with  tumul- 
tuous noise.  Lower  down  is  the  Linn  Caldron,  where, 
within  a  distance  of  twenty-eight  yards,  the  stream  has 
two  falls,  one  of  thirt3r-four  and  the  other  of  forty-four 
feet,  of  nearly  perpendicular  descent ;  and  in  the  in- 
terval the  rocks  are  worn  into  three  spacious  cavities, 
in  two  of  which  the  water,  from  its  violent  agitation, 
has  the  appearance  of  boiling.  Near  the  old  Rumbling 
Bridge,  which  is  still  entire,  a  bridge  has  been  recently 
erected  on  the  line  of  the  turnpike-road.  The  soil  in 
some  parts  of  the  parish  is  mossy,  in  others  a  gravel, 
and  in  some  places  clay  alternated  with  loam;  the 
system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  advanced  state ;  much 
waste  land  has  been  brought  into  profitable  cultivation, 
and  the  inclosures,  partly  of  stone  dykes  and  partly 
fences  of  thorn,  are  well  kept.  On  the  lands  of  Fosso- 
way, a  fence  of  wire-work  attached  to  posts  of  wood 
has  recently  been  introduced.  The  farm-houses  and 
offices,  with  very  few  exceptions,  are  substantial  and 
commodious  ;  and  most  of  the  later  improvements  in 
husbandry  have  been  adopted.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  Perthshire  portion  of  the  parish  now 
amounts  to  £3900,  and  that  of  the  Kinross-shire  por- 
tion to  £4618.  The  plantations  are  extensive,  and  pro- 
perly managed  ;  they  consist  principally  of  spruce  and 
Scotch  fir,  ash,  elm,  plane,  and  beech,  all  of  which  grow 
well  in  the  soil.  Larch,  which  formerly  produced  con- 
siderable profit,  has  within  the  last  few  years  appeared 
451 


to  degenerate  :  oak,  which  has  only  recently  been 
planted,  seems  to  thrive.  There  are  quarries  of  whin- 
stone  and  freestone  in  several  parts,  and  in  the  western 
districts  are  found  limestone,  coal,  and  ironstone  :  at 
Blairingone  are  three  collieries  in  operation,  two  of 
which  were  but  lately  opened.  The  ironstone  for  many 
years  was  extensively  wrought,  but  the  working  of  it 
has  recently  been  almost  discontinued.  In  a  rock  near 
the  Rumbling  Bridge  is  found  copper-ore ;  but  the 
quantity  bears  so  small  a  proportion  to  the  material  in 
which  it  is  contained,  that  it  cannot  be  wrought  to 
advantage. 

The  castle  of  Tulliebole,  the  seat  of  Sir  James  W. 
Moncrieff,  Bart.,  one  of  the  judges  of  the  Court  of  Session, 
is  an  ancient  mansion,  having  been  erected  in  160S; 
Devonshaw  House  and  Arndean  are  both  handsome 
modern  mansions,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  banks  of 
the  Devon.  The  castle  of  Aldie,  once  the  baronial  seat 
of  the  Mercers,  and  now  the  property  of  their  represen- 
tative, the  Baroness  Keith,  though  uninhabited  remains 
entire.  The  principal  villages  are  Blairingone  and  Crook 
of  Devon,  both  burghs  of  barony  :  the  latter  is  situated 
on  the  river  Devon,  which  here  makes  a  sudden  turn  in 
its  course,  whence  the  village  takes  its  name ;  and  there 
is  a  good  inn  for  the  accommodation  of  the  numerous 
visiters  who  frequent  the  place  in  order  to  view  the 
interesting  scenery  in  its  vicinity.  The  parish  also  con- 
tains several  hamlets,  of  which  the  most  considerable 
are  Gartwhinean  and  Carnbo.  Fairs  are  held  in  May 
and  in  October,  when  cattle  and  wares  are  exposed  for 
sale.  The  turnpike-road  from  Dunfermline  to  Crieff 
passes  through  the  parish,  from  north  to  south,  and 
that  from  Kinross  to  Alloa  intersects  it  from  east  to 
west :  parallel  with  the  latter,  and  about  two  miles  to 
the  north  of  it,  is  the  turnpike-road  from  Stirling  to 
the  east  of  Fife ;  and  the  Dunning  road  also  crosses  a 
portion  of  the  parish.  There  are  six  bridges  over  the 
Devon,  which  tend  to  facilitate  the  communication  be- 
tween this  place  and  the  neighbouring  towns.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  presbytery  of  Auehterarder  and  synod  of  Perth 
and  Stirling.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £164,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £8.  13.  4. ;  patron,  Sir 
Graham  Montgomerie,  of  Kinross.  The  church,  built 
in  1S06,  is  a  plain  edifice  in  good  repair,  containing  525 
sittings.  A  church,  to  which  a  quoad  sacra  parish  was 
for  a  short  time  assigned,  has  been  erected  on  a  site  a 
little  to  the  east  of  the  village  of  Blairingone,  given  for 
that  purpose  by  Mark  Watt,  Esq.,  who  also  subscribed 
liberally  towards  its  erection ;  it  was  opened  for  divine 
service  in  1 S3S,  and  is  a  neat  structure  containing  250 
sittings.  The  parochial  school  is  attended  by  about 
seventy  children ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with 
a  house  and  garden,  some  land  worth  £12  per  annum, 
and  the  fees  averaging  £2".  Another  school  is  partly 
supported  by  private  subscription.  There  is  a  petrify- 
ing spring  on  the  lands  of  Devonshaw ;  and  on  the 
estate  of  Blairingone,  a  mineral  spring  was  discovered 
about  fifteen  years  since,  the  water  of  which,  according 
to  an  analysis  made  by  Dr.  Thomson,  professor  of 
chemistry  in  the  university  of  Glasgow,  contains  in  an 
imperial  gallon,  5'S7  grs.  common  salt,  170'99  grs.  sul- 
phate of  soda,  953'1S  grs.  sulphate  of  alumine,  1753-10 
grs.  dipersulphate  of  iron,  141 '55  grs.  persulphate  of 
iron,  and  5S'70  grs.  of  silica.     The  water  is  too  strong 

3  M  2 


FOUL 


F  O  V  E 


for  internal  use,  without  dilution ;  but,  externally  ap- 
plied, is  powerful   in  healing  wounds. — See  Blairin- 

CONE,  &C. 

FOULA,  an  island,  in  the  county  of  Shetland  ; 
forming  part  of  the  parish  of  Walls  and  Sandness, 
and  containing  215  inhabitants.  This  island  lies  almost 
twenty  miles  distant  from  any  land,  and  is  the  most 
westerly  of  the  Shetlands  ;  it  is  about  three  miles  in 
length,  and  one  and  a  half  in  breadth,  with  bold  and 
steep  shores,  and  formed  chiefly  of  three  hills  of  a  nearly 
conical  shape,  the  highest  of  which  attains  an  elevation 
of  between  S00  and  900  feet.  There  is  very  little  level 
ground  ;  and  the  isle  has  only  one  landing-place,  Ham, 
on  the  east  side,  and  even  this  cannot  be  approached 
in  bad  weather :  the  island  is  resorted  to  as  a  fishing 
station,  and  it  affords  excellent  pasturage  for  sheep. 
Dense  columns  of  birds  of  various  kinds  hover  round  it, 
literally  darkening  the  air  at  particular  seasons ;  the 
surface  of  the  hills  swarms  with  plover,  crows,  and  cur- 
lews, and  the  cormorants  occupy  the  lower  portions  of 
the  cliffs.  The  minister  of  Walls  makes  a  periodical 
visit  to  the  isle,  remaining  usually  for  two  Sundays  ;  the 
schoolmaster  officiates  as  a  kind  of  pastor  at  other  times. 

FOUNTAIN  HALL,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Stow, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  4  miles  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from 
Stow  ;  containing  60  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  the 
centre  of  the  parish,  on  the  western  side  of  the  Gala 
water,  and  on  the  road  from  Stow  to  Borthwick.  There 
is  a  good  library  in  the  hamlet. 

FOULDEN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Berwick, 
5  miles  (N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Berwick  ;  containing  393 
inhabitants,  of  whom  73  are  in  the  village,  and  the  re- 
mainder in  the  rural  districts  of  the  parish.  This  place, 
of  which  the  signification  and  derivation  of  the  name 
are  alike  uncertain,  is  chiefly  distinguished  for  a  con- 
ference held  in  the  church  in  15S7,  between  commis- 
sioners appointed  by  James  VI.  of  Scotland,  and  others 
sent  by  Elizabeth  of  England,  to  discuss  and  investigate 
those  circumstances  in  the  conduct  of  the  unfortunate 
Mary  by  which  Elizabeth  endeavoured  to  vindicate  the 
incarceration  and  subsequent  decapitation  of  her  royal 
sister.  The  parish  is  about  two  miles  and  a  quarter  in 
length,  and  very  nearly  of  equal  breadth,  and  comprises 
3000  acres,  of  which  2400  are  arable,  300  woodland 
and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  rough  pasture  and 
waste.  The  surface  is  diversified  with  gentle  slopes, 
and  with  wood-crowned  heights,  which  shelter  it  from 
the  colder  winds  ;  the  scenery  is  generally  interesting, 
and  in  some  parts  pleasingly  picturesque  and  romantic. 
The  river  Whiteadder,  which  is  here  of  considerable 
depth,  skirts  the  southern  side  of  the  parish  for  the  whole 
distance,  in  its  progress  to  the  Tweed,  into  which  it  falls 
near  Berwick  ;  its  banks  are  of  precipitous  height,  and 
on  the  north  side  intersected  with  numerous  glens, 
through  which  many  streams  from  the  higher  lands 
find  their  way  into  its  channel. 

The  soil  in  some  parts  is  a  strong  clay,  in  some  a 
sandy  loam,  and  in  others  a  cultivated  moor ;  the  crops 
are,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  beans,  potatoes,  and  turnips. 
The  system  of  agriculture  is  in  an  advanced  state  ;  the 
lands  are  well  drained  and  inclosed,  the  farm-houses 
and  offices  substantially  built  and  conveniently  arranged; 
and  all  the  more  recent  improvements  in  husbandry  are 
practised.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£5002.  The  woods  are  partly  of  great  age  ;  the  plan- 
452 


tations  consist  of  oak,  ash,  elm,  birch,  chesnut,  and 
sycamore,  with  spruce  and  Scotch  firs.  Foulden  House, 
the  seat  of  the  proprietor  of  four-fifths  of  the  parish,  is 
a  handsome  mansion,  pleasantly  situated  in  an  exten- 
sive and  richly-wooded  demesne,  ornamented  with  much 
stately  timber  of  ancient  growth,  and  with  young  and 
thriving  plantations.  The  village  is  neatly  built,  and 
inhabited  by  persons  employed  in  agricultural  pursuits 
and  in  the  various  handicraft  trades  requisite  for  the 
parish.  A  fair,  chiefly  for  pleasure,  is  held  annually  in  the 
village  ;  and  the  want  of  easier  means  of  communication 
with  the  market-town  and  other  places,  which  was  pre- 
viously severely  felt,  was  recently  supplied  by  the  erec- 
tion of  a  good  bridge  over  the  river  Whiteadder,  for 
which  purpose  a  grant  from  the  county  of  £500,  and  a 
subscription  of  £1500  from  the  gentry  of  the  district, 
were  obtained.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Chirnside  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and 
patronage  of  John  Wilkie,  Esq. ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £152.  18.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £24 
per  annum.  The  church,  situated  within  the  grounds 
of  Foulden  House,  was  erected  in  1786,  after  the  ancient, 
church  had  become  ruinous ;  it  is  a  neat  edifice,  well 
adapted  for  the  parish,  and  the  interior  is  capable  of  being 
seated  for  the  accommodation  of  the  whole  population. 
The  parochial  school  affords  a  good  course  of  instruction; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £10  fees,  and  a 
house  and  garden.  From  the  name  of  an  estate  in  the 
parish,  called  Nunlands,  it  is  supposed  that  a  religious 
establishment  once  existed  here,  though  no  account  of  it 
has  transpired  ;  and  there  were  formerly  remains  of  an 
ancient  fort  called  Foulden  Castle,  probably  a  place  of 
retreat  during  the  wars  of  the  border.  In  the  church- 
yard is  an  epitaph  to  the  memory  of  some  hero  who 
appears  to  have  distinguished  himself  in  those  preda- 
tory incursions  so  frequent  in  feudal  times ;  it  is  inscribed 
to  George  Ramsay,  and  dated  4th  January,  1592. 

FOVERAN,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Ellon, 
county  of  Aberdeen,  12  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Aber- 
deen ;  containing,  with  the  village  of  Newburgh  and  the 
barony  of  Knockhall,  1620  inhabitants.  This  place 
was  formerly  remarkable  for  its  castle,  called  Foveran, 
as  is  supposed,  from  a  sweet  and  powerful  spring,  which 
still  flows  with  its  ancient  vigour  ;  but  every  vestige 
of  the  fortress  is  gone.  The  parish  is  situated  in  the 
district  of  Formartine,  stretching  along  the  coast  of  the 
German  Ocean,  and  is  separated  on  the  north  by  the 
burn  of  Tarty  from  the  parish  of  Logie-Buchan,  and 
from  the  sands  of  Forvie  on  the  east  by  the  river  Ythan. 
It  is  about  seven  miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west, 
and  three  in  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  and  is 
watered  by  the  beautiful  burn  of  Foveran,  which  turns 
three  meal-mills,  and,  after  forming  in  its  pleasing 
course  the  chief  ornament  in  the  scenery,  which  is 
nearly  destitute  of  wood,  falls  into  the  Ythan  at  New- 
burgh. Agriculture  is  steadily  pursued  ;  but  the  prin- 
cipal interest  of  the  locality  lies  in  the  fishing  village 
and  maritime  port  of  Newburgh,  which  see.  The  land 
is  generally  fertile,  and  distributed  into  many  good 
farms,  producing  fine  crops;  the  farm-houses  are  mostly 
built  of  stone  and  lime,  and  are  commodious  and  well 
finished :  within  the  last  twenty  years  large  tracts 
of  barren  soil  have  been  improved,  and  drains  and 
fences  constructed  on  an  extensive  scale.  The  mail- 
road  from  Aberdeen  to  Peterhead  intersects  the  parish, 


FOWL 


FOWL 


and  has  several  branches,  one  ofwhieli,  called  the  Fiddes 
road,  joins  the  Udny  turnpike-road,  opening  important 
facilities  of  intercourse  with  that  part  of  the  country  : 
there  is  also  a  turnpike-road  from  Aberdeen  to  Meth- 
lick,  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish ;  and 
another  has  been  just  completed,  which  is  found  highly 
beneficial,  from  Old  Meldrum  to  the  village  of  New- 
burgh.  About  twenty  head  of  fat-cattle  are  shipped 
every  week  at  the  port,  for  the  London  market;  and 
lime,  coal,  timber,  bones,  &c.  are  imported.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £57  13.  Foveran  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Ellon  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in 
the  patronage  of  the  Crown  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£193,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £11  per 
annum.  The  church  is  a  plain  substantial  edifice,  built 
in  1794,  and  accommodating  700  persons  ;  the  interior 
contains  two  handsome  marble  monuments  to  the  Foveran 
family,  and  another,  of  very  superior  character,  designed 
by  Bacon,  to  the  Udny  family.  Excellent  walls  have 
recently  been  built  round  the  churchyard,  with  money 
left  for  that  purpose  by  Miss  Robertson,  of  Foveran. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual 
branches ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £2S,  with  about 
£31  fees.  There  is  also  a  school  at  Cultercullen,  in  the 
western  quarter,  with  an  endowment  of  £S  per  annum, 
and  a  free  house,  and  piece  of  land.  Mr.  Mather,  a 
native  of  the  parish,  left  a  sum  for  the  establishment  of 
four  bursaries  at  Marischal  College,  under  the  patronage 
of  the  minister,  for  boys  educated  in  the  parochial 
school ;  also  money  for  clothing  and  educating  twenty 
poor  fishermen's  children  belonging  to  Newburgh,  and 
£20  per  annum  to  the  minister  or  schoolmaster  for  lec- 
turing once  in  each  week  to  the  people  in  the  village, 
About  half  a  mile  north  of  Newburgh,  are  the  ruins  of 
the  castle  of  Knockhall,  built  in  the  year  1565,  and  acci- 
dentally burnt  in  1734  ;  it  was  the  seat  of  the  family  of 
Udny,  whose  ancient  burial-ground,  also  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  village,  contains  the  remains  of  an  old 
chapel  generally  called  Rood  Church. 

FOWLIS. — See  Lxjndie  and  Fowlis. 

FOWLIS  WESTER,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Perth  ;  including  the  villages  of  Buchanty  and  Gil- 
merton,  and  containing  1609  inhabitants,  of  whom  187 
are  in  the  village  of  Fowlis  Wester,  5  miles  (E.  N.  E.) 
from  Crieff.  The  origin  of  the  name  of  this  place, 
Fowlis,  or  Foulis,  is  differently  accounted  for.  A  local 
tradition  states  that  one  of  the  earls  of  Strathearn, 
wishing  for  a  church  in  the  vicinity  of  his  castle  here, 
stood  on  an  eminence  where  he  had  a  summer  seat,  and 
resolved  to  erect  one  where  the  sun  first  shone,  which 
was  on  the  spot  it  now  occupies,  by  him  denominated 
Foicgiwlish,  "under  the  light."  Others  derive  the  name, 
but  erroneously,  from  the  ancient  family  of  Fowlis,  who 
are  said  to  have  held  property  here  ;  they  came  into 
Scotland,  from  France,  in  the  reign  of  Malcolm  Can- 
more,  and  branches  of  the  family  separated  into  different 
parts  of  the  country,  which  still  retain  the  appellation 
of  Fowlis.  The  village  was  once  a  place  of  considerable 
importance,  where  the  steward  of  Strathearn  held  his 
court ;  and  about  a  mile  east  of  the  church,  on  a  part  of 
the  estate  of  Fowlis,  was  formerly  a  castle,  the  seat  of 
the  ancient  earls  of  Strathearn,  but  the  site  of  which 
now  forms  a  grassy  mount.  Here  resided  Mallus,  or 
Malise,  the  first  earl,  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  I. ;  and 
his  grandson,  Gilbert,  in  the  year  1200,  founded  the 
453 


monastery  of  Inchaffray,  near  the  south  border  of  the 
parish.  The  seventh  carl,  named  also  Malise,  opposing 
Baliol,  forfeited  the  title;  and  his  countess,  Joanna, 
daughter  of  Sinclair,  Earl  of  Orkney,  in  1320  was  en- 
gaged in  a  plot  against  Robert  I.,  for  which,  according 
to  some  accounts,  she  was  condemned  to  perpetual 
imprisonment.  Mary,  sister  of  the  last-mentioned  earl, 
was  married  to  Sir  John  Moray,  of  Drumsargard,  to 
whom  she  conveyed  the  lands  of  Abercairney,  in  the 
parish  ;  and  her  son,  Sir  Maurice  Moray,  is  said  to  have 
been  restored  to  the  earldom,  which,  however,  at  length 
became  extinct  on  his  being  taken  prisoner,  with 
David  II.  and  many  other  noblemen,  at  the  battle  of 
Durham  in  1346. 

The  parish  is  six  miles  in  extreme  length  and  four 
in  breadth,  and  contains  15,600  acres.  It  is  situated 
on  the  north  side  of  Strathearn,  and  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Glen-Almond  ;  on  the  south  lies  the  parish  of 
Madderty,  on  the  east  that  of  Methven,  and  on  the 
west  Menzie.  The  surface  is  marked  by  two  mountain 
ranges,  of  which  the  northern  is  the  highest,  and  forms 
a  part  of  the  Grampian  mountains ;  the  southern  is 
three  miles  in  breadth,  and  consists  of  large  tracts  of 
moss  and  heath,  ornamented  with  some  plantations, 
and  interspersed  with  a  few  cottages. and  cultivated 
farms.  In  the  south,  where  the  surface  is  extremely 
irregular,  are  a  number  of  braes,  which  diversify  the 
valley  lying  in  that  direction,  as  well  as  the  southern 
slopes  of  the  last-named  range  of  hills.  The  beautiful 
and  meandering  stream  of  the  Almond  bounds  the 
parish  for  two  miles  ;  and  the  lands  contiguous  to  it 
exhibit  an  assemblage  of  woods,  hills,  rocks,  and  cas- 
cades, with  cottages,  so  strikingly  grouped  as  to  con- 
stitute some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  the  county.  The 
river  Pow,  rising  in  the  mosses  below  Methven,  runs  on 
the  south,  and  joins  the  Earn  near  Iunerpeffray.  la 
the  west  is  the  loch  of  Luag,  situated  in  a  narrow  glen, 
from  which  may  be  seen  the  stupendous  amphitheatre 
of  hills  around  Comrie,  with  the  famed  Benvoirlich  tow- 
ering to  the  clouds. 

The  soil  has  many  varieties  of  gravel,  sand,  loam, 
and  clay,  resting  chiefly  on  rock  :  though  tolerably  fer- 
tile, it  is  in  many  places  thin  and  dry,  and  where  the 
subsoil  is  clay  the  earth  is  wet  and  cold.  On  the  banks 
of  the  Pow  the  soil  is  alluvial,  from  the  inundations  of 
the  river.  There  are  9400  acres  in  tillage,  6200  in  pas- 
ture, and  1000  under  wood  :  all  kinds  of  grain  are  raised, 
of  average  quality  ;  the  green  crops  consist  of  potatoes 
and  turnips,  and  are  produced  to  a  large  extent,  with 
considerable  quantities  of  hay.  The  cattle  are  the  Fife, 
the  Ayrshire,  and  the  Teeswater ;  and  very  superior 
horses  of  the  Clydesdale  breed,  the  Garron,  and  the 
Cleveland  bay,  are  reared  in  the  parish.  A  highly-im- 
proved system  of  husbandry  is  followed,  and  great 
advances  have  been  made  in  every  branch  of  agricul- 
ture ;  but,  though  most  of  the  arable  land  is  inclosed 
with  stone  dykes  and  with  hedges,  much  still  remains 
to  be  done  in  this  respect,  and  the  more  effectual  em- 
bankment of  the  river  Pow  is  required  for  protection  in 
the  rainy  season.  The  rocks  chiefly  belong  to  the  tran- 
sition formation  :  the  hills  consist  of  mica-slate,  with 
occasional  beds  of  quartz  and  hornblende,  and  a  coarse 
red  conglomerate  composed  principally  of  hornblende 
porphyry,  which  sometimes  has  the  appearance  of  com- 
mon   greywacke ;    the    slate   dips  at  the   angle  of  45° 


FRAS 


FRAS 


towards  the  north.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  parish  are 
several  extensive  beds  of  grey  sandstone  in  thick  strata, 
which,  instead  of  being  vertical,  like  the  slate,  are  nearly 
horizontal :  trap  dykes  also  occur.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £12,700. 

The  chief  mansion  is  the  House  of  Abercairney,  an 
elegant  modern  edifice  in  the  form  of  an  ancient  cathe- 
dral :  the  House  of  Cultoquhey  is  also  a  substantial  and 
commodious  residence,  built  from  a  design  by  Smirke,  in 
the  style  of  the  Elizabethan  age.  The  village  of  Fowlis 
is  very  ancient,  and  still  admits  of  great  improvements, 
though  some  have  recently  taken  place  in  the  construc- 
tion and  slating  of  the  houses.  The  lands  of  Lacock, 
adjoining  Fowlis,  form  a  burgh  of  barony,  with  the  pri- 
vilege of  a  weekly  market  and  two  annual  fairs,  none  of 
which,  however,  have  been  lately  held.  St.  Methvan- 
mas'  fair  is  held  at  Fowlis  on  the  6th  of  November,  for 
the  sale  of  black-cattle  and  for  hiring  servants  ;  it  was 
anciently  the  parish  festival,  instituted  in  honour  of  the 
saint  to  whom  the  church  was  dedicated.  The  weaving 
of  cotton  is  carried  on  to  some  extent  in  the  parish,  the 
raw  material  being  obtained  from  Glasgow  :  the  manu- 
facture of  sieves,  also,  has  employed  several  families  for 
some  generations,  to  supply  the  Perth  and  Fife  markets, 
where  the  articles  meet  with  a  ready  sale  at  good  prices. 
There  is  a  fishery  on  the  Almond  for  salmon  and  white- 
trout,  which  are  taken  at  a  cascade,  below  which  a 
basket  is  suspended  to  receive  the  fish,  that  fall  into  it 
in  attempting  to  overleap  the  cascade  in  their  passage 
up  the  river.  The  turnpike-road  from  Perth  to  Crieff 
passes  through  the  parish  ;  and  there  are  several  other 
roads,  all  of  which  are  kept  in  good  order.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Auch- 
terarder  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling ;  patron, 
William  Moray  Stirling,  Esq.,  of  Abercairney.  The 
stipend  of  the  minister  is  £225,  with  a  good  manse  and 
offices,  and  a  glebe  of  seven  acres,  valued  at  £20  per 
annum.  The  church,  a  very  ancient  edifice,  accommo- 
dates 800  persons  with  sittings.  There  is  a  parochial 
school,  in  which  the  usual  branches  of  education  are 
taught;  the  master  has  the  maximum  salary,  with  a 
house  and  garden,  and  about  £25  in  fees.  In  the  village 
of  Fowlis  is  an  old  Calvary  cross,  on  one  side  of  which 
is  a  representation  of  a  wolf-chase ;  and  in  the  parish 
are  several  Druidical  temples,  one  of  them  supposed  to 
have  been  the  temple  of  an  Arch-Druid,  and  consisting 
of  a  double  concentric  circle  of  forty  stones  in  its  outer 
precinct. 

FRASERBURGH,  a 
burgh  of  regality  and  a  pa- 
rish, in  the  district  of  Bu- 
chan,  county  of  Aberdeen, 
42  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from 
Aberdeen,  and  149  (N.  N.  E.) 
from  Edinburgh  ;  containing 
3615  inhabitants,  of  whom 
326  are  in  the  village  of 
Broadsea.  This  place,  an- 
ciently   called    Faithly,  was 

once    the    property    of    Sir 
Burgh  Seal.  ,,  j       £  i. 

Alexander  Fraser,  on  whose 

lands  a  town  was  built,  for  which  he  obtained  a  charter 

from  James  VI.,  erecting    it  into  a  burgh  of  regality 

named,  in  compliment  to  its  superior,  Fraserburgh,  by 

which  appellation,  also,  the  parish  has  since  been  desig- 

454 


nated.  Sir  Alexander,  by  marriage  with  the  daughter 
of  George,  the  seventh  baron  Saltoun,  succeeded  to  the 
title  as  tenth  baron  ;  and  his  descendant,  the  present 
Lord  Saltoun,  who  is  also  hereditary  provost  of  the 
burgh,  is  principal  proprietor  of  the  parish.  The  town, 
which  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Kinnaird  Head, 
a  bold  promontory  projecting  into  the  German  Ocean, 
near  the  entrance  of  the  Moray  Frith,  consists  of  several 
spacious  and  well-formed  streets,  intersecting  each 
other  at  right  angles.  The  houses  are  substantially 
built,  and  generally  of  handsome  appearance,  and  many 
of  the  more  modern  class  are  spacious  ;  the  streets  are 
well  paved,  and  the  inhabitants  amply  supplied  with 
water.  The  cross,  erected  by  Sir  Alexander  Fraser,  in 
the  centre  of  the  town,  is  an  elegant  hexagonal  struc- 
ture of  nine  receding  stages,  diminishing  from  an  area 
of  500  feet  at  the  base  to  twenty-three  feet  on  the 
platform,  from  which  rises  a  pillar,  twelve  feet  high, 
ornamented  with  the  bearings  of  the  Frasers,  sur- 
mounted by  the  British  arms. 

The  principal  trade  carried  on  arises  from  the  ex- 
portation of  grain,  other  agricultural  produce,  and 
fish  ;  and  the  importation  of  timber,  coal,  lime,  bricks, 
tiles,  salt,  and  various  kinds  of  goods  for  the  supply 
of  the  shops  in  the  town.  The  quantity  of  grain  ex- 
ported averages  20,000  quarters,  and  of  potatoes  15,000 
bolls  annually  ;  of  fish,  about  50,000  barrels  of  herrings, 
and  dried  and  pickled  cod  to  the  amount  of  £6000 ; 
the  whole  affording  employment  to  many  persons  :  and 
the  harbour  dues,  originally  not  exceeding  £70,  have 
since  the  improvement  of  the  harbour  increased  to 
£1900  per  annum.  The  number  of  vessels  registered 
as  belonging  to  the  port,  which  is  a  creek  to  that  of 
Banff,  is  twenty-two,  varying  from  forty-five  to  260 
tons'  burthen ;  and  about  280  boats  are  engaged  in 
the  herring-fishery,  which  is  carried  on  with  spirit,  and, 
during  its  continuance,  makes  an  increase  of  2000  per- 
sons in  the  population  of  the  parish.  The  harbour, 
situated  at  the  north-eastern  extremity  of  the  bay  of 
Fraserburgh,  is  easy  of  access,  and  has  a  depth  of  six 
feet  at  low  water,  and  of  twenty  feet  at  spring  tides  ; 
it  is  about  eight  acres  in  extent,  and  affords  ample 
security  to  vessels  at  all  times.  It  has  been  greatly 
improved  by  the  construction  of  additional  piers,  and 
the  erection  of  a  lighthouse  on  Kinnaird  Head,  the  whole 
at  an  expense  of  £50,000,  of  which  part  was  paid  by 
government,  and  the  remainder  by  Lord  Saltoun,  and 
by  subscription  of  the  inhabitants.  Other  improve- 
ments are  at  present  contemplated.  The  bay,  which  is 
about  three  miles  in  length,  forms  an  excellent  road- 
stead, where  numerous  ships  of  any  burthen  may  lie  at 
anchor,  and  is  consequently  much  resorted  to  by  ves- 
sels of  every  description,  in  adverse  weather.  The 
manufacture  of  rope  and  sails,  the  spinning  of  linen- 
yarn,  and  some  other  works  connected  with  the  shipping, 
are  also  carried  on,  to  a  moderate  extent.  The  town 
was  erected  into  a  burgh  of  regality  in  1613,  and  the 
government  is  vested  in  an  hereditary  provost,  by  whom 
are  appointed  two  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  treasurer, 
and  thirteen  councillors.  The  lessees  of  lands  within 
the  burgh  are  burgesses,  and  are  bound  to  maintain 
the  public  works  of  the  town,  for  which  purpose  they 
possess  the  market  customs  and  tolls,  and,  in  lieu  of 
certain  privileges  over  commons,  have  lands  producing  a 
rent  of  £160  per  annum.     The  bailies  hold  courts  within 


FRAS 


FRIO 


the  burgh  for  actions  of  debt,  and  for  the  trial  of  petty 
offences.  The  town-hall  was  built  by  Sir  Alexander 
Fraser,  as  well  as  a  small  gaol,  now  in  a  ruinous  state, 
and  unfit  for  the  detention  of  prisoners.  As  many  as 
three  branch  banks,  and  a  savings'  bank,  have  been 
established;  the  post-office  has  a  daily  delivery,  and 
facility  of  communication  with  Aberdeen,  Peterhead, 
Banff,  Strichen,  and  other  places  is  maintained  by  good 
roads. 

The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Moray  Frith,  and  on  the  east  by  the  bay  of  Fraserburgh, 
is  about  eight  miles  in  length,  and  three  and  a  half  in 
average  breadth,  but  is  divided  into  two  nearly  equal 
parts  by  an  intervening  portion  of  the  parish  of  Rathen, 
more  than  a  mile  in  breadth  :  it  contains  11,000  acres, 
of  which,  with  the  exception  of  about  eighty  acres,  the 
whole  is  arable.  The  surface  near  the  eastern  coast  is 
low  and  sandy,  and  towards  the  north  flat  and  rocky, 
with  the  exception  of  the  lofty  promontory  of  Kinnaird 
Head  :  from  the  shore  the  land  rises  gradually  to  the 
interior,  and  to  the  south  are  several  hills,  of  which 
that  of  Mormond,  covered  with  moss  and  heath,  has 
an  elevation  of  S10  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
river  Philorib,  which  has  its  source  in  the  higher  dis- 
tricts, and  receives  in  its  way  some  tributary  streams, 
forms  a  boundary  between  this  parish  and  Rathen,  and 
falls  into  the  bay  of  Fraserburgh.  The  soil  in  some 
parts  is  sandy  and  light,  and  in  others  clay,  and  loam 
alternated  with  gravel,  and  interspersed  with  moorland 
and  moss  ;  the  crops  are,  grain  of  all  kinds,  with  beans, 
peas,  potatoes,  and  turnips.  The  system  of  husbandry 
has  greatly  improved ;  the  farms  vary  from  fifty  to 
300  acres  in  extent ;  the  lands  are  partly  inclosed  and 
under  good  cultivation,  and  shell-sand,  sea-weed,  and 
bone-dust  are  the  chief  manures.  The  cattle  are  of  the 
native  breed,  intermixed  with  various  others,  and  recently 
some  of  the  Teeswater  have  been  introduced :  large 
numbers  are  shipped  from  the  port  to  the  London  mar- 
ket, where  they  obtain  a  high  price.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £10,145. 

There  are  some  remains  of  aged  natural  wood  in  the 
grounds  of  Philorth  House  ;  and  from  numerous  trunks 
of  trees  buried  in  the  moss,  it  would  appear  that  the 
district  was  anciently  well  wooded  :  plantations  have 
been  recently  formed  around  the  house  of  Philorth,  and 
on  several  lands  previously  unproductive.  The  prin- 
cipal substrata  are,  limestone,  which  is  quarried  for 
building  purposes  and  for  manure,  and  granite,  which 
is  found  in  great  quantity  in  the  upper  districts  of  the 
parish  ;  ironstone,  also,  occurs  among  the  rocks,  and 
apparently  of  good  quality,  but  from  the  scarcity  of 
fuel  it  is  not  wrought.  Philorth  House,  the  seat  of 
Lord  Saltoun,  the  only  mansion  of  any  importance,  is 
pleasantly  situated  at  a  short  distance  from  the  bay, 
and  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river  Philorth,  in  grounds 
tastefully  laid  out.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  the 
parish  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery 
of  Deer  and  synod  of  Aberdeen.  The  minister's  stipend 
is  £'319,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £10  per 
annum ;  patron,  Lord  Saltoun.  The  church,  in  the 
centre  of  the  town,  is  a  substantial  structure  built  in 
1S02,  and  contains  1000  seats  ;  a  tower  and  spire  were 
afterwards  added,  at  an  expense  of  £300,  raised  by  sub- 
scription. There  are  places  of  worship  for  Independ- 
ents, the  Free  Church,  and  Episcopalians.  The  parochial 
455 


school  is  attended  by  100  children,  of  whom  thirty 
are  girls;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £29.  18.  10.,  with 
a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £50 
per  annum  ;  he  receives  also  a  share  of  Dick's  bequest. 
There  are  some  vestiges  of  ancient  religious  houses,  one 
of  which,  called  the  College,  is  said  to  have  been  con- 
nected with  the  abbey  of  Deer  ;  and  at  the  west  end  of 
the  town,  are  the  remains  of  a  spacious  quadrangular 
building  erected  in  1592,  by  Sir  Alexander  Fraser,  who 
obtained  a  charter  for  the  foundation  of  a  college,  but 
which  was  not  carried  into  effect.  On  Kinnaird  Head 
are  the  ruins  of  a  tower  called  the  Wine  Tower,  under 
which  is  a  cavern,  penetrating  for  more  than  100  feet 
into  the  rock  :  there  are  also  some  ruins  of  Danish 
camps  and  Pictish  houses  in  the  parish. 

FRESWICK,  a  township,  in  the  parish  of  Canisbay, 
county  of  Caithness  ;  containing  414  inhabitants.  This 
place  is  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  where 
the  coast  is  washed  by  the  North  Sea,  and  indented  by 
Freswick  bay ;  the  beach  here  is  composed  of  sand 
and  a  mixture  of  sandstone  and  shells,  and  at  a  short 
distance  southward  is  the  promontory  of  Freswick  point. 
The  lands  are  the  property  of  the  Sinclair  family,  who 
are  proprietors  of  the  greater  portion  of  the  parish,  and 
to  whom  belongs  Freswick  House,  an  ancient  mansion, 
not  inhabited  for  many  years,  and  now  in  an  almost 
ruinous  state.  The  burn  of  Freswick,  which  is  the  chief 
stream,  pursues  an  easterly  course  of  a  few  miles,  and 
discharges  itself  into  the  bay.  Here  are  the  ruins  of 
an  edifice  called  Bucholie  Castle,  which  appears  to  be 
of  great  antiquity  ;  and  there  was  formerly  a  chapel 
dedicated  to  St.  Maddan,  but  scarcely  a  vestige  now 
remains. 

FREUCHIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Falkland, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife,  1|  mile  (E.  S.  E.) 
from  Falkland;  containing  713  inhabitants.  It  lies 
near  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  parish,  on  the  road 
from  Falkland  to  Pitlessie,  and  has  the  small  hamlet  of 
Little  Freuchie  on  the  west.  The  village  is  of  some  anti- 
quity, and  is  said  to  have  been  in  former  times  a  place 
of  exile  for  courtiers  who  had  incurred  the  royal  dis- 
pleasure ;  it  suffered  much  from  the  depredations  of 
Rob  Roy's  garrison  at  Falkland,  in  1716.  It  is  chiefly 
inhabited  by  persons  employed  in  hand-loom  weaving. 
There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  United 
Secession;  and  a  small  school  is  supported  by  subscrip- 
tion. 

FRIARTON,  a  village,  in  the  East  parish  of  the 
city  and  county  of  Perth  ;   containing  62  inhabitants. 

FRIOCKHEIM,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parishes  of  Kirkden  and  Inverkeillor,  county  of 
Forfar  ;  containing  1443  inhabitants,  of  whom  905 
are  in  the  village  of  Friockheim,  3§  miles  (E.  by  N.) 
from  Letham,  and  7  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from  Arbroath. 
This  district  is  nearly  five  miles  in  extent,  comprising 
about  1694  acres  in  tillage  or  pasture,  308  under  plan- 
tation, and  395  in  uncultivated  waste  ;  and  is  skirted 
on  the  whole  of  its  northern  boundary  by  the  Lunan 
water,  one  of  the  finest  trouting-streams  in  Forfarshire. 
The  village,  which  is  on  the  north-eastern  limits  of  the 
district,  has  grown  up  within  the  last  sixteen  or  eighteen 
years  under  the  auspices  of  John  Andson,  Esq.,  owing 
chiefly  to  the  feuing  of  small  lots  of  ground,  and  the 
rapid  increase  of  the  linen  manufacture  "in  the  neigh- 
bourhood.    Upwards  of  400  persons  are  now  employed 


FULL 


FY  V  I 


in  flax-spinning,  and  the  manufacture  of  sheetings, 
Osnaburghs,  dowlas,  and  sail-cloth,  which  are  exported 
principally  to  the  American  market.  The  houses  are 
neatly  built,  and  there  is  a  spinning-mill  in  operation 
here.  The  turnpike-road  from  Arbroath  to  Forfar  runs 
nearly  through  the  centre  of  the  district :  the  Arbroath 
and  Forfar  railway  passes,  within  three  minutes'  walk 
south  of  the  village,  having  an  intermediate  station  here  ; 
and  by  these  means  there  is  a  frequent  and  expeditious 
communication.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
presbytery  of  Arbroath  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  : 
the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £70,  derived  from  seat- 
rents  and  collections,  with  a  manse  ;  and  the  patronage 
is  vested  in  the  male  communicants.  The  church,  erected 
in  1835,  by  the  presbytery,  aided  by  the  Church  Exten- 
sion Society,  is  a  neat  edifice,  and,  from  its  recent 
enlargement,  contains  600  sittings.  There  is  a  parochial 
school,  in  which  the  usual  branches  of  education  are 
taught,  and  which  is  capable  of  accommodating  about 
140  scholars  ;  and  a  parochial  library  has  been  insti- 
tuted by  the  Kirk  Session. 

FUDAY,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Barra,  county 
of  Inverness;  containing  5  inhabitants.  This  is  a 
small  and  fertile  island  lying  about  two  miles  and  a  half 
northward  of  Barra,  and  affords  excellent  pasture  :  it 
was  until  lately  uninhabited. 

FULLARTON,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Dundonald,  district  of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr, 
6|  miles  (W.)  from  Kilmarnock  ;  containing  3103  inha- 
bitants. This  place,  which  is  situated  on  the  south- 
western bank  of  the  river  Irvine,  derives  its  name  from 
its  ancient  proprietors,  the  Fullartons,  by  one  of  whom 
a  convent  was  founded  in  1240,  on  the  site  of  the  pre- 
sent town,  and  amply  endowed  for  friars  of  the  Carmelite 
order.  The  establishment  continued  to  flourish  till  the 
Reformation,  when  it  was  suppressed  ;  and  while  laying 
out  the  lands  in  allotments  for  the  erection  of  the  town, 
vestiges  of  the  ancient  building,  consisting  of  the  foun- 
dations of  its  walls,  were  discovered  near  the  mansion- 
house  of  the  founder.  The  town,  which  forms  a  popu- 
lous suburb  to  the  burgh  of  Irvine,  on  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  river,  is  well  built,  and  consists  chiefly  of  two 
streets,  one  being  in  a  line  with  the  main  street  of  Irvine, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  handsome  bridge  :  seve- 
ral smaller  streets  diverge  in  various  directions.  Its 
situation  on  the  shore  of  the  harbour  of  Irvine  gives  to 
the  place  a  very  interesting  appearance,  which  is  much 
heightened  by  the  beauty  of  the  surrounding  scenery, 
and  the  numerous  pleasing  villas  in  the  immediate 
vicinity. 

A  public  library  is  supported  by  subscription  ;  and 
the  inhabitants  are  partly  employed  in  hand-loom  weav- 
ing for  the  manufacturers  of  Ayr  and  Glasgow,  and  in 
the  various  handicraft  trades  connected  with  the  wants 
of  the  neighbourhood.  In  1707,  William  Fullarton, 
Esq.,  the  superior,  obtained  for  the  inhabitants  a  charter 
erecting  the  town  into  a  burgh  of  barony,  with  the  pri- 
vilege of  two  annual  fairs ;  but,  from  the  proximity  of 
Irvine,  the  charter  does  not  appear  to  have  been  carried 
into  effect.  The  district  of  Fullarton  was  separated  for 
ecclesiastical  purposes  from  the  parish,  by  act  of  the 
General  Assembly,  in  1838,  and,  with  a  part  of  the 
estate  of  Shewalton,  erected  into  a  quoad  sacra  parish, 
since  abolished.  The  church,  erected  in  that  year,  is  a 
handsome  substantial  structure,  built  by  subscription, 
456 


and  containing  900  sittings  :  the  minister,  who  is 
chosen  by  a  committee  of  subscribers  and  the  male 
communicants,  has  a  stipend  of  £88,  derived  from  the 
seat-rents  and  collections,  and  guaranteed  by  bond.  A 
school  in  connexion  with  the  Established  Church  is  sup- 
ported by  the  General  Assembly,  who  allow  the  master 
a  salary  of  £15,  in  addition  to  the  fees;  and  a  school- 
house  for  300  children  has  been  erected  at  an  expense 
of  £500,  obtained  from  the  trustees  of  Dr.  Bell's  be- 
quest for  educational  purposes. 

FUNGARTH,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Caputh, 
county  of  Perth  ;  containing  76  inhabitants. 

FYVIE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Turriff,  county 
of  Aberdeen,  7|  miles  (S.  S.  W.)  from  Cuminestown  ; 
containing  3597  inhabitants.  This  place,  of  which  the 
ancient  name,  Fyvyn,  is  of  doubtful  etymology,  is  chiefly 
distinguished  for  its  castle,  of  which  the  original  founder 
is  unknown,  but  which,  in  1296,  was  visited  by  Edward  I. 
of  England,  in  his  progress  through  the  kingdom  of 
Scotland.  This  castle,  which  appears  to  have  been  of 
considerable  strength,  was  in  1395  in  the  possession  of 
Sir  James  Lindesay,  during  whose  absence  it  was  va- 
liantly defended  by  his  lady  against  Robert,  son  of  the 
Earl-Marischal  Keith,  till  the  return  of  Sir  James, 
who  compelled  the  assailants  to  raise  the  siege.  In 
1644,  it  was  held  for  some  time  by  the  Marquess  of 
Montrose  against  the  army  of  the  Earl  of  Argyll  ;  but 
the  marquess,  not  thinking  it  secure  from  the  superior 
forces  of  his  adversary,  retired  to  an  eminence  in  the 
vicinity,  in  which  he  intrenched  himself  till  his  retreat 
to  Strathbogie.  From  certain  records  still  preserved  in 
the  castle,  there  seems  to  have  been  a  town  at  this  place, 
which  had  the  liberties  of  a  royal  burgh,  under  Reginald 
le  Cheyne,  in  1250,  and  subsequently  became  a  burgh 
of  barony  under  the  Fyvie  family,  as  superiors,  but  of 
which  not  even  the  site  can  now  be  traced.  A  charter 
is  extant,  granting  to  Alexander,  third  earl  of  Dunferm- 
line, in  16/3,  the  privilege  of  a  weekly  market  and  three 
annual  fairs  in  the  manor  of  Fyvie,  and  confirming  to 
him  and  to  his  successors  all  the  rights  of  a  free  burgh 
of  barony.  Two  of  these  fairs  are  still  held  in  the 
parish,  one  on  Fastern's  Even  (Shrove  Tuesday)  ;  but 
the  market-cross,  and  every  other  vestige  of  the  burgh, 
long  since  disappeared. 

The  parish,  which  is  about  thirteen  miles  in  extreme 
length,  and  nearly  eight  miles  in  extreme  breadth,  com- 
prises an  area  of  27,034  acres,  of  which  15,950  are 
arable,  2500  meadow  and  pasture,  1735  woodland  and 
plantations,  and  the  remainder  heathy  moorland  and 
moss.  The  surface  is  pleasingly  diversified  with  hills  of 
moderate  height,  of  which  the  most  conspicuous  is  that 
of  Eastertown,  towards  the  south,  forming  a  part  of  the 
Bethelnie  range,  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Meldrum. 
The  river  Ythan,  which  has  its  source  in  the  parish  of 
Forgue,  about  eleven  miles  to  the  west,  takes  its  course 
through  this  parish,  which  it  divides  into  two  nearly 
equal  parts,  and,  after  enlivening  the  grounds  of  Fyvie 
Castle,  runs  eastward,  and  falls  into  the  sea  at  New- 
burgh,  in  the  parish  of  Foveran.  The  soil  along  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  in  the  plain  near  the  castle,  is  a 
rich  fertile  loam,  producing  early  crops  ;  in  the  level 
lands  it  is  generally  a  loam,  resting  on  a  substratum  of 
gravel ;  and  in  the  northern  part  are  large  tracts  of 
moor  and  moss.  The  crops  are,  oats,  bear,  barley, 
potatoes,  and  turnips,  with  a  few  tares  and  peas,  and  a 


F  Y  V  I 


G  A  I  11 


little  flax.  The  system  of  husbandry  is  improved;  the 
farm-buildings  are  substantial,  and  on  the  various  farms 
are  not  less  than  eighty  threshing-mills,  of  which  forty- 
five  are  driven  by  water,  and  the  remainder  by  horses. 
The  cattle  are  of  the  old  Aberdeenshire  breed,  with  not 
a  few  of  a  cross  with  the  Teeswater ;  about  5000  head  of 
cattle  are  annually  reared  in  the  pastures,  and  1600 
sheep.  A  considerable  number  of  pigs  are  reared,  and 
sent  to  the  London  market ;  while  the  produce  of  the 
dairy-farms  is  also  very  great.  The  plantations,  which 
are  extensive  and  well  managed,  consist  of  fir,  inter- 
spersed with  the  most  usual  forest-trees,  all  of  which 
are  in  a  thriving  condition  ;  the  principal  ancient  woods 
are  on  the  lands  of  Fyvie  Castle,  in  which  are  many 
trees  of  stately  growth.  The  chief  substrata  are  whin- 
stone  and  sandstone  ;  but,  from  the  great  dip  of  the 
beds,  the  quarries  are  difficult  to  work,  and  few  blocks 
have  been  raised.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £1 0,224. 

Fyvie  Castle  is  an  ancient  and  venerable  structure, 
built  at  various  periods  with  a  due  regard  to  the  pre- 
servation of  the  original  style.  It  is  beautifully  situated 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Ythan,  in  a  park  surrounded 
with  richly-wooded  heights ;  and  consists  of  two  sides 
of  a  quadrangle,  of  which  that  on  the  south-east,  called 
the  Preston  tower,  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected  about 
the  year  1400.  In  the  south  wing  is  the  Seton  tower, 
of  which  the  old  iron  gate  is  yet  remaining ;  and  over  the 
gateway  are  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  Seton  family, 
sculptured  on  a  tablet  of  freestone.  To  the  south-west 
is  the  Meldrum  tower  ;  and  at  the  northern  extremity 
of  the  western  wing,  is  the  tower  erected  by  the  late 
Hon.  General  Gordon,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  chapel, 
which  had  fallen  into  ruin.  The  whole  of  the  castle 
and  the  grounds  have  been  recently  much  improved. 
Rothie  House  is  a  handsome  modern  mansion,  built  by 
the  late  ownei-,  and  is  situated  on  an  eminence  overlook- 
ing a  pleasing  valley,  and  surrounded  by  a  demesne 
which  has  been  laid  out  with  great  taste,  and  embel- 
lished with  thriving  plantations  by  the  present  pro- 
prietor. Kinbroom  House,  about  a  mile  to  the  west  of 
Rothie,  is  also  a  pleasant  residence,  commanding  a  fine 
view.  Gight  Castle,  a  beautifully  picturesque  ruin,  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  Ythan,  and  now  the  property  of 
the  Earl  of  Aberdeen,  was  anciently  the  seat  of  the 
Gordons,  maternal  ancestors  of  the  late  Lord  Byron. 
There  is  no  village  properly  so  called  in  the  parish  ; 
but  near  the  church  are  a  few  neat  cottages,  to  which 
gardens  are  attached,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
distant  is  a  post-office,  on  the  turnpike-road  from  Aber- 
deen to  Banff.  Fairs  are  held  on  the  manor  of  Fyvie, 
on  Fastern's  E'en,  in  February,  for  the  sale  of  horses  ; 
and  in  July,  on  the  day  before  Strichen  fair,  for  cattle 
and  for  hiring  servants. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Turriff  and  synod  of 
Aberdeen.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £224,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £17.  10.  per  annum; 
patron,  William  Gordon,  Esq.,  of  Fyvie.  The  church, 
erected  in  1S08,  is  a  spacious  plain  edifice,  containing 
1 114  sittings  :  in  the  churchyard  is  the  burying-place 
of  the  Gordons,  of  Gight,  which  was  originally  within 
the  ancient  church.  A  chapel,  in  which  a  missionary 
officiates,  has  been  erected  at  Millbrex,  in  the  northern 
district  of  the  parish,  at  a  cost  of  £600,  towards  which 
Vol.  I. — 457 


the  Earl  of  Aberdeen  gave  £100  and  the  site  for  the 
building,  the  Church  Extension  Committee  of  the  General 
Assembly  £70,  and  the  remainder  was  raised  by  sub- 
scription of  the  parishioners  of  Fyvie  and  Monquhitter, 
for  whose  accommodation  it  was  built.  It  is  a  neat 
structure  containing  500  sittings;  and  the  minister  has 
a  stipend  of  £60,  of  which  £20  are  paid  from  the  Royal 
Bounty,  and  the  remainder  derived  from  the  seat-rents, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  small  glebe.  There  are  two  epis- 
copal chapels,  one  at  Woodhead,  and  the  other  at 
Meiklefolla  ;  and  the  members  of  the  Free  Church  have 
a  place  of  worship.  The  parochial  school  is  well  at- 
tended ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
and  garden,  and  the  fees,  &c.,  average  £30  per  annum. 
A  priory  was  founded  here  by  Fergus,  Earl  of  Buchan, 
in  1179,  and  endowed  with  the  lands  of  Ardlogy  and 
Leuchendy  by  Reginald  Le  Cheyne,  in  1285  ;  it  after- 
wards became  subordinate  to  the  abbey  of  Aberbrothock. 
The  buildings,  which  were  situated  on  the  Ythan,  about 
a  mile  below  the  castle,  long  since  disappeared,  with 
the  exception  of  some  faint  vestiges  of  the  chapel,  which 
may  still  be  traced  in  a  field  near  the  church.  There 
are  also  remains  of  the  intrenchments  thrown  up  by  the 
Marquess  of  Montrose  and  the  Earl  of  Argyll  during 
the  civil  war. 


G 


G'AASKER  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Harris,  county 
of  Inverness.  This  is  a  large,  green,  but  uninhabited 
island  of  the  Hebrides,  lying  about  four  leagues  north- 
west from  Taransay.  The  name  is  derived  from  the 
Gaelic,  signifying  "  the  rock  of  geese,"  from  the  circum- 
stance of  its  being  frequented  by  countless  numbers  of 
wild-geese. 

GADGIRTH-HOLM,  with  Bankfoot,  a  hamlet,  in 
the  parish  of  Coylton,  district  of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr  ; 
containing  77  inhabitants.  It  is  seated  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river  Ayr,  and  consists  simply  of  a  group  of 
cottages.  Gadgirth  House  is  a  plain  modern  mansion, 
of  an  oblong  form,  standing  on  the  bank  of  the  Ayr, 
and  forming  the  centre  of  a  beautiful  and  interesting 
landscape. 

GAIRLOCH,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ross  and 
Cromarty,  60  miles  (W.  by  N.)  from  Dingwall ;  in- 
cluding the  islands  of  Horisdale  and  Longo,  the  late 
quoad  sacra  district  of  Poolewe,  and  part  of  that  of 
Shieldag;  and  containing  4880  inhabitants.  This  place 
takes  its  name  from  a  salt-water  lake  called  Gairloch, 
from  the  Gaelic  word  gearr,  signifying  "short."  It  is 
not  remarkable  for  any  important  historical  events ; 
but  some  antiquities  in  the  parish  indicate  the  settle- 
ment and  military  operations  of  the  Danes,  and  the 
celebrated  Loch  Maree  has  an  island  in  its  centre,  the 
tombstones  aud  hieroglyphical  figures  on  which  sup- 
port the  current  tradition  that  it  was  the  sepulchre  of 
Danish  kings.  The  parish  is  forty  miles  long,  and 
thirty  broad,  at  its  extreme  points.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  the  river  Gruinard,  by  which  it  is  separated 
from  Lochbroom  parish ;  on  the  south  by  an  arm  of 
the  sea  ;  by  a  chain  of  hills  on  the  east ;  and  on  the 
west  by  the  Minch,  which  divides  Lewis  from  the  main 
land.     The  general  aspect  of  the  surface  is  hilly  ;   and 

3  N 


G  A  I  R 


GALA 


in  some  parts  the  elevations  are  of  unusual  height,  sup- 
plying grand  and.  romantic  scenery.  The  beautiful 
inland  water  of  Loch  Maree,  eighteen  miles  long,  with 
its  thickly-wooded  islands,  twenty-four  in  number,  is 
one  of  the  most  striking  features  in  the  parish,  and 
has  long  been  the  admiration  of  the  traveller-,  not  only 
from  its  own  attractions,  but  also  on  account  of  the 
imposing  mountain  scenery  by  which  it  is  encompassed. 
A  lofty  range,  commencing  on  each  side  of  it,  runs  to 
a  distance  of  four  miles  beyond  its  extremity,  presenting 
in  the  group  the  majestic  Slioch,  or  Sliabhach,  towering 
3000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  loch  is  of  the 
average  breadth  of  one  mile  and  a  half;  it  is  about 
sixty  fathoms  deep,  and  was  never  known  to  freeze. 
Among  its  islands  is  that  of  Maree,  where  St.  Maree, 
one  of  St.  Columba's  followers,  resided,  and  where  is  a 
consecrated  well,  with  a  burying-ground  supposed  by 
some  to  be  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  by  others, 
as  already  stated,  to  have  been  the  sepulchre  of  Danish 
kings.  The  only  river  of  note  is  the  Ewe,  which  issues 
from  Loch  Maree,  and,  after  running  a  mile  north- 
westward, joins  the  estuary  called  Loch  Ewe  ;  it  abounds 
with  salmon  of  the  finest  quality,  and  its  fame  draws 
the  lovers  of  angling,  during  the  season,  from  all  quar- 
ters. There  are  two  salt-water  lakes,  Gairloch  and 
Loch  Ewe,  the  latter  nine  or  ten  miles  long.  The 
climate  of  the  parish,  though  mild,  is  very  rainy, 
occasioned  partly  by  the  prevalence  of  south-west 
winds,  and  partly  by  the  mountainous  character  of  the 
country. 

Arable  land  lets  only  at  from  10s.  to  £1  per  acre,  and 
there  is  much  room  for  agricultural  improvement  :  the 
more  respectable  families  have  large  sheep-farms,  but 
the  lots  of  ground  of  the  poorer  inhabitants  do  not 
generally  exceed  one  or  two  acres.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £4810.  Towards  the  sea-coast  is 
a  belt  of  red  sandstone  of  the  old  formation,  forming 
low  barren  headlands ;  to  this  succeeds,  at  the  head  of 
Loch  Gairloch,  micaceous  schist,  and  five  miles  farther 
eastward  the  sandstone  again  appears,  in  mountain 
ridges  and  eminences,  some  of  them  3000  feet  high, 
characterised  by  a  rude  grandeur  seldom  equalled.  At 
the  head  of  Loch  Maree,  quartz  succeeds  the  sandstone  ; 
and  on  the  estate  of  Letterewe,  near  the  loch,  a  century 
and  a  half  ago,  some  veins  of  iron-ore  were  wrought 
for  several  years  ;  but  the  wood  in  the  neighbourhood, 
used  for  fuel,  failing,  the  labourers  were  compelled  to 
give  up  the  work.  The  ruins  of  two  of  the  furnaces 
employed  in  the  operations  are  still  to  be  seen.  A  cattle- 
market  is  held  in  July,  and  cattle  are  also  sent  to 
Beauly ;  herrings  and  cod  are  forwarded  to  Glasgow, 
wool  to  Liverpool  and  Inverness,  and  salmon  to  London. 
The  houses,  generally  speaking,  are  of  the  humblest 
description,  and  the  people  are  employed  about  equally 
between  agriculture  and  fishing  :  they  mostly  reside  in 
irregular  hamlets,  or  clusters  of  cottages  ;  and  some  of 
them  manufacture  a  stout  woollen-cloth  and  coarse 
stockings,  but  chiefly  for  private  wear,  a  small  quantity 
only  of  either  being  sent  to  market.  The  mail  from 
Dingwall  to  Stornoway  runs  through  the  parish  twice 
a  week,  but  the  roads  are  in  bad  condition:  indeed, 
with  the  exception  of  ten  miles  of  road  in  the  centre  of 
the  parish,  and  ten  miles  leading  to  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  Loch  Maree,  they  are  little  more  than  foot- 
paths. There  are  four  vessels  belonging  to  the  several 
458 


ports,  of  about  thirty-five  tons'  burthen  each.  Flower- 
dale,  an  old  chateau,  in  a  vale  of  great  beauty,  is  a  seat 
of  Sir  Francis  Mackenzie  ;  around  it  are  some  large 
forest-trees.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  governed  by 
the  presbytery  of  Lochcarron  and  synod  of  Glenelg  : 
the  patronage  is  vested  in  the  Crown.  The  stipend  of 
the  minister  is  £217,  "with  a  manse,  erected  in  1805, 
and  enlarged  in  1S23,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per 
annum.  The  church,  built  in  1791,  and  repaired  in 
1834,  accommodates  385  persons  with  sittings.  There 
is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  English,  Gaelic,  Greek, 
Latin,  and  mathematics  are  taught,  with  the  ordinary 
branches  of  education ;  the  master's  salary  is  £30,  with 
a  house,  and  about  £4  fees.  Another  school  is  sup- 
ported by  the  Gaelic  School  Society.  The  ordinary 
language  spoken  is  Gaelic ;  and  William  Ross,  a  re- 
spectable poet,  who  was  born  in  the  parish,  and  died 
here  about  forty -five  years  since,  wrote  in  this  tongue. 
The  foundations  of  one  or  two  small  forts  can  be  traced 
near  the  sea-shore ;  and  at  Cairnfield  are  those  of  a 
large  building,  supposed  by  some  to  have  been  a  Culdee 
religious  house. 

GAIRNEY-B RIDGE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of 
Cleish,  county  of  Kinross,  2|  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from 
Kinross  ;  containing  50  inhabitants.  This  village  takes 
its  name  from  its  situation  near  a  bridge  over  the  river 
Gairney,  a  stream  which  rises  among  the  Cleish  hills,  and 
discharges  itself  into  Loch  Leven,  half  a  mile  south  of 
Kinross.  There  is  a  Sabbath  school,  in  which  are 
about  130  children.  Michael  Bruce  once  taught  a 
school  here. 

GAIRSAY,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Evie  and 
Kendall,  county  of  Orkney;  containing  71  inha- 
bitants. This  is  an  isle  of  the  Orkney  group,  about 
four  miles  in  circuit,  and  separated  by  a  strait  from 
Rendall.  It  consists  chiefly  of  a  conical  hill  of  consi- 
derable altitude  ;  the  whole  of  the  west  side  is  pretty 
steep,  but  towards  the  east  it  is  more  level  and  fertile, 
and  in  this  quarter,  and  in  the  south,  the  lands  are 
tolerably  well  cultivated.  Here  is  a  small  harbour  called 
the  Mill-Burn,  perfectly  secured  on  all  sides  by  the 
island  itself,  and  by  a  holm,  which  covers  the  entrance 
to  the  south,  leaving  a  passage  on  each  side  of  it  to  the 
anchoring  ground. 

GALASHIELS,  a  manufacturing  town,  burgh  of 
barony,  and  parish,  partly  in  the  district  of  Melrose, 
county  of  Roxburgh,  and  partly  in  the  county  of  Sel- 
kirk, 6  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Selkirk,  and  32  (S.  S.  E.) 
from  Edinburgh;  containing  2140  inhabitants,  exclu- 
sively of  2396  in  the  parish  of  Melrose,  into  which 
the  town  extends.  This  place,  which  is  of  remote 
antiquity,  derives  its  name,  signifying  in  the  British 
lauguage  "  a  full  stream,"  from  its  situation  on  the  river 
Gala,  by  which,  from  the  rapidity  and  violence  of  its 
current,  the  town  was  formerly  subject  to  frequent  and 
disastrous  inundations.  In  the  reign  of  David  II.,  the 
Scottish  army  was  quartered  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood, after  the  battle  of  Crichtondean,  in  which 
the  English,  being  taken  by  surprise,  had  been  defeated, 
and  compelled  to  cross  the  Tweed  near  the  town.  About 
a  mile  distant,  on  the  road  to  Abbotsford,  is  a  tract 
formerly  a  marsh,  but  now  in  a  state  of  cultivation, 
where,  in  a  skirmish,  some  of  the  English  forces  were 
slain,  and  in  which,  while  draining  the  land,  were  found 
several  implements    of  war.     In    1599,   the    place  was 


GALA 


GALA 


erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony;  and  in  1622,  from  a 
report  of  the  lords  commissioners,  it  appears  that  it 
had  become  of  some  importance,  and  contained  not  less 
than  400  inhabitants.  The  town  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  river  Gala,  which  pursues  its  course  in  a  direc- 
tion from  north-west  to  south-east,  and  is  spanned  by 
four  bridges.  It  is  of  very  pleasing  appearance,  con- 
sisting chiefly  of  houses  built  within  the  last  fifty  years 
in  a  neat  and  handsome  style ;  the  streets  are  well 
laid  out,  and  partially  lighted,  and  the  inhabitants  are 
amply  supplied  with  water.  A  public  library,  supported 
by  subscription,  has  a  collection  of  more  than  5000 
volumes  of  general  literature ;  and  there  are  public 
reading  and  news  rooms,  well  supplied  with  newspapers  ; 
also  a  good  circulating  library,  and  libraries  attached  to 
some  of  the  places  of  worship. 

The  principal  trade  carried  on  here,  and  to  which 
the  town  owes  its  importance,  is  the  woollen  manufac- 
ture, which  has  been  gradually  brought  to  a  very  high 
state  of  perfection  :  the  articles  produced  are,  narrow 
fancy  cloths  of  various  quality,  known  in  the  mar- 
ket as  "tweeds," -|  Saxony-wool  tartan,  shawls,  and 
plaids.  The  narrow  cloths  vary  in  price  from  twenty 
to  eighty  pence  per  yard,  the  ^  tartan  cloakings  from 
two  to  nine  shillings  per  yard,  and  the  shawls,  which 
are  in  high  esteem  for  their  texture  and  for  the  richness 
and  variety  of  their  colours,  from  three  to  thirty  shillings 
each.  There  are  eleven  factories  in  the  town,  and  a 
twelfth  is  about  to  be  erected  ;  they  are  all  dependent 
on  water-power,  except  two,  which  have  the  aid  of  steam, 
and  the  spindles  now  number  17,000,  and  the  looms 
563,  affording  together  employment  to  1400  persons. 
The  quantity  of  wool  annually  used  is  estimated  at  fully 
]  ,000,000  lb.,  value  £80,000,  principally  from  Australasia, 
Germany,  and  other  foreign  countries,  the  use  of  wool 
of  home  growth  being  nearly  superseded  :  the  yearly 
value  of  finished  goods  is  £200,000.  The  great  increase 
of  the  trade  of  Galashiels  may  be  understood  from  the 
statement  of  the  fact  that,  seventy  years  ago,  only  722 
stone  of  wool  were  used  by  the  clothiers,  and  scarcely 
as  much  more  could  be  manufactured  by  private  per- 
sons. In  the  year  1/90,  it  appears  that  243  packs  of 
wool,  each  pack  containing  twelve  stone  of  twenty-four 
lb.,  were  purchased  by  the  manufacturers ;  besides 
which,  they  received  from  different  quarters  wool,  yarn, 
and  weaved  cloth,  to  a  considerable  amount,  to  be  dyed 
and  dressed.  At  that  period,  about  250  women  were 
constantly  engaged  in  spinning  wool ;  there  were  also 
occasional  spinners ;  and  three  machines,  having  each 
thirty  or  thirty-six  spindles,  were  employed  two  or 
three  days  in  the  week  :  the  number  of  looms  was  only 
forty-three.  Hosiery  is  made  to  a  small  extent ;  there 
are  likewise  a  tannery,  two  skinneries,  several  forges  for 
the  manufacture  of  machinery  required  for  the  factories, 
and  a  thriving  brewery.  Three  banks  have  branches  in 
the  town.  The  market,  held  on  Monday,  was  formerly 
of  considerable  note,  but  has  now  unaccountably  fallen 
into  disuse,  and  the  fairs  are  but  very  indifferently  at- 
tended. The  post-office  has  a  tolerable  delivery ;  and 
facility  of  communication  with  the  neighbouring  towns  is 
afforded  by  excellent  roads  in  every  direction,  of  which 
the  new  road  from  Carlisle  passes  through  the  town.  Two 
bridges  have  been  erected  in  the  parish,  over  the  rivers 
Tweed  and  Ettrick  ;  there  are  also  a  suspension-bridge 
upon  a  highly  ingenious  principle,  and  other  bridges  for 
459 


foot  passengers  across  the  various  streams.  The  burgh 
is  governed  by  a  bailie,  appointed  by  the  chief  lord ; 
but,  though  he  has  the  jurisdiction  common  to  burghs 
of  barony,  he  holds  no  courts  either  for  civil  or  criminal 
cases,  and  the  police  of  the  town  is  managed  by  con- 
stables, who  are  paid  by  the  two  counties  in  which 
Galashiels  is  situated. 

The  parish,  which  includes  the  old  parishes  of  Gala- 
shiels and  Lindean,  is  nearly  eight  miles  in  length, 
and  about  three  miles  in  average  breadth ;  and  is 
bounded  by  the  rivers  Tweed,  Ettrick,  and  Gala,  the 
first  of  which  also  flows  through  the  parish,  between 
banks  richly  clothed  with  wood,  and  displaying  much 
beautiful  scenery.  It  comprises  more  than  10,000  acres, 
of  which  about  one-half  are  arable,  500  woodland  and 
plantations,  and  the  remainder  hill-pasture  and  waste. 
The  surface  is  diversified  with  hills  and  narrow  winding 
glens,  and  some  of  the  former  have  a  considerable 
elevation,  the  highest  being  the  Meigle,  which  commands 
the  town,  and  is  nearly  1500  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea  :  the  loftier  grounds  embrace  interesting  views 
of  the  adjacent  country,  enlivened  by  the  rivers.  The 
Gala  was  formerly  subject  to  great  inundations,  but,  from 
the  deepening  of  its  channel,  has  been  rendered  less 
impetuous  in  its  course,  and  much  less  destructive  of 
the  lands  than  previously.  The  chief  lake  within  the 
parish  is  Loch  Cauldshiels,  which  is  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  in  circumference,  and  of  great  depth ;  it  was 
adorned  on  one  side,  by  the  late  Sir  Walter  Scott,  with 
beautiful  plantations.  A  smaller  lake,  about  twelve 
acres  in  extent,  was  formerly  drained  in  the  hope  of 
finding  marl,  but  afterwards,  on  the  failure  of  the  at- 
tempt, suffered  to  resume  its  ancient  waters ;  it  has 
plenty  of  eels,  but  is  perfectly  destitute  of  any  orna- 
mental features.  The  rivers  abound  with  salmon,  and 
trout  of  very  large  size  are  frequently  found  in  them  ; 
the  fishery  on  the  Tweed  has  been  recently  placed  under 
more  salutary  regulations,  and  at  present  does  not 
commence  till  the  middle  of  February. 

The  soil  is  various  ;  in  some  places  a  rich  black  loam, 
in  others  a  stiff  retentive  clay,  and  on  the  banks  of  the 
rivers  of  a  very  sandy  quality.  The  crops  are,  oats, 
barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the  system  of  agri- 
culture is  advanced,  and  the  four  and  five  shift  courses 
of  husbandry  are  prevalent.  The  lands  have  mostly 
been  well  drained,  and  inclosed  partly  with  stone  dykes 
and  partly  with  thorn  hedges,  and  bone-dust  has  been 
partially  introduced  as  manure  ;  the  farm-houses  and 
offices  are  commodiously  arranged,  and  all  the  more 
recent  improvements  have  been  generally  adopted. 
Great  attention  is  paid  to  live  stock  ;  the  cattle  are  of 
a  good  kind,  and  the  sheep  of  the  Cheviot  and  Leices- 
tershire breeds.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £9649,  including  £2215  for  the  Roxburgh- 
shire portion.  The  plantations  are  Scotch  and  spruce 
firs,  intermixed  with  larch,  oak,  ash,  elm,  beech,  and  syca- 
more ;  they  are  well  managed,  and  in  a  very  thriving 
condition.  The  substrata  are,  greywacke,  clay-slate, 
and  ironstone,  but  no  quarries  have  been  opened  :  an 
attempt  has  been  made  to  find  coal,  but  hitherto  with- 
out success,  and  nothing  more  than  a  black  shale,  quite 
destitute  of  any  bituminous  quality,  has  been  disco- 
vered. The  seats  are,  Gala  House,  a  handsome  man- 
sion in  a  well-planted  demesne,  ornamented  with  some 
ancient  trees  of  stately  growth ;   and  Faldonside.     The 

3  N  2 


GALL 


GALS 


parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Selkirk  and  synod  of 
Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and  patronage  of  Hugh  Scott,  Esq. ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £211.  11.,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £9,8  per  annum.  The  church,  erected 
in  IS  13,  is  a  good  structure  in  the  later  English  style 
of  architecture,  with  a  square  embattled  tower,  and  is 
adapted  for  a  congregation  of  1000  persons.  There  are 
places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  the 
United  Associate  Synod,  the  Relief  Church,  Baptists, 
and  Independents.  The  parochial  school  affords  a  liberal 
course  of  instruction,  and  is  well  attended  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £70  fees,  a  house  and  garden, 
and  the  privilege  of  taking  boarders.  There  are  also 
two  schools  in  the  rural  districts ;  the  master  of  one 
has  a  salary  of  £S,  and  of  the  other  £5,  in  addition 
to  the  fees.  A  Bible  and  missionary  society  is  sup- 
ported by  subscription  ;  and  there  is  a  small  but  well- 
assorted  library,  in  connexion  with  the  Sabbath  schools. 
A  friendly  society,  which  has  been  established  here  for 
the  last  twenty  years,  and  a  savings'  bank,  in  which 
the  amount  of  deposits  exceeds  £700,  have  contributed 
to  reduce  the  number  of  claims  upon  the  parochial 
funds.  Vestiges  of  two  encampments,  both  supposed 
to  be  of  Roman  origin,  may  be  traced  on  the  lands  of 
Faldonside,  and  also  on  the  estate  of  Fairnilee  ;  and 
there  are  still  some  remains  of  the  ancient  Roman  road 
in  the  parish.  Nothing  is  left  of  the  church  at  Lin- 
dean,  which  had  been  abandoned,  on  account  of  extreme 
dilapidation,  nearly  forty  years  before  the  two  parishes 
were  united. 

GALDRY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Balmerino, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife,  4  miles  (S.  W.)  from 
Newport ;  containing  355  inhabitants.  In  the  parish  are 
two  ridges,  and  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  southern 
ridge  is  a  large  extent  of  high  table-land,  in  which  this 
village  is  placed ;  it  is  seated  on  the  road  from  New- 
burgh  to  Newport. 

GALLATOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dysart, 
district  of  Kirkcaldy,  county  of  Fife,  1  mile  (N.  N.  W.) 
from  Dysart;  containing  1198  inhabitants.  This  village 
is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name  from  the  circum- 
stance of  the  land  on  which  part  of  it  is  built  having 
anciently  been  a  place  for  the  execution  of  criminals. 
It  is  on  the  road  from  Dysart  to  Falkland,  is  of  consi- 
derable extent,  and  divided  into  two  portions  called  East 
and  West  Gallatown.  The  inhabitants  were  formerly 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  nails,  which  was  largely 
established  here  :  since  the  decline  of  that  trade,  the 
population  have  found  ample  employment  in  the  weav- 
ing of  checks  and  ticking,  in  agriculture,  and  in  the 
mines  and  quarries  in  the  neighbourhood. 

H(&  <£r*  GALLOWAY,  NEW,  a 

i^fe^^fe.         royal  burgh,  in  the  parish  of 
^Mwri     Kelxs,  stewartry  of  Kirk- 
cudbright, 19  miles  (N.  by 
^SSfrn!)    W.)  from  Kirkcudbright,  and 
i^lM   25  (w>)  'rom  Dumfries  ;  con- 


,   taining  403  inhabitants.  This 
fflWw   place,  which   is   of  no  very 
great    antiquity,  is    situated 
on    the    west    bank    of  the 
river  Ken,   over  which  is  a 
handsome    bridge    of     gra- 
nite, comprising  five  arches, 
whereof  the  central  arch  has  a  span  of  ninety  feet.    The 
460 


Burgh  Seal. 


town  consists  chiefly  of  one  main  street,  from  which 
diverge  two  smaller  streets,  extending  along  the  roads 
from  Kirkcudbright  to  Newton-Stewart  and  to  Dum- 
fries. The  houses  are  but  of  indifferent  appearance,  and 
the  inhabitants  are  mostly  occupied  in  the  various  handi- 
craft trades  requisite  for  the  accommodation  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood ;  there  are  several  shops,  and  three  good  inns. 
The  post-office  has  a  daily  delivery  ;  a  branch  of  the 
Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  bank  has  been  established,  and 
facility  of  communication  is  maintained  by  the  turn- 
pike-roads, and  others  which  are  kept  in  good  repair. 
Four  fairs  of  some  importance  were  formerly  held  here, 
and  those  in  April,  Midsummer,  and  at  Hallowtide  are 
still  tolerably  attended,  but  chiefly  for  hiring  servants. 
The  inhabitants  received  a  charter  from  Charles  I.  dated 
15th  January,  1629,  by  which  all  the  privileges  of  a 
royal  burgh  were  conferred  on  the  town,  and  the 
government  was  vested  in  a  provost,  four  bailies,  a  dean 
of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and  twelve  common-councilmen  ; 
but  in  1708,  by  an  act  of  the  Convention  of  Royal 
Burghs,  the  corporation  was  made  to  consist  of  a  pro- 
vost, two  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  council  of  fifteen.  The 
provost  and  other  officers  of  the  burgh  are  all  resi- 
dent ;  and  courts  are  held  by  the  sheriff  and  justices  of 
peace  on  the  first  Monday  in  every  month.  The  town- 
hall,  attached  to  which  is  a  gaol  for  debtors  and  crimi- 
nals, is  situated  in  the  main  street,  and  has  a  steeple 
with  a  clock.  The  burgh  is  joined  with  those  of  Wig- 
ton,  Stranraer,  and  Whithorn,  in  returning  a  member 
to  the  imperial  parliament ;  the  constituency,  however, 
does  not  exceed  seventeen. 

GALLOWLAW,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Pan- 
bride,  county  of  Forfar  ;  containing  79  inhabitants. 
It  is  one  of  several  hamlets,  or  groups  of  cottages,  in 
the  parish. 

GALSTON,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kyle,  county 
of  Ayr,  5  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from  Kilmarnock ;  con- 
taining, with  the  village  of  Greenholme,  4334  inhabit- 
ants. This  parish,  which  is  fancifully  supposed  to  have 
derived  its  name  from  the  temporary  settlement  of  a 
number  of  Gauls,  is  thirteen  miles  in  length,  and  from 
four  to  five  miles  broad  ;  and  comprises  14,577  acres,  of 
which  more  than  one-half  are  arable,  1000  woodland 
and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  pasture  and  waste. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Irvine  ;  on  the 
east  by  the  river  Avon,  dividing  it  from  the  parish  of 
Avondale,  in  Lanarkshire ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  river 
Cessnock,  which  separates  it  from  the  parishes  of  Ric- 
carton  and  Craigie.  The  surface  is  diversified  with  hills, 
of  which  the  chief  are  Distincthorn  and  Molmont  hill, 
the  former  having  an  elevation  of  1100,  and  the  latter 
of  1000,  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ;  the  scenery  is 
pleasingly  varied,  and  in  some  parts  enriched  with  wood 
and  flourishing  plantations.  There  were  formerly  several 
lakes  in  the  parish  ;  but  in  the  agricultural  improve- 
ments that  have  taken  place,  they  have  been  all  drained 
and  brought  into  cultivation,  with  the  exception  of 
Loch  Gait,  which,  however,  is  little  more  than  an  incon- 
siderable tract  of  marsh.  The  soil  is  various  ;  in  the 
higher  lands,  a  loam  intermixed  with  sand,  or  with  a 
kind  of  moss  ;  and  along  the  banks  of  the  Irvine,  a  rich 
loam  :  in  other  parts,  a  variety  of  clay  is  most  preva- 
lent. The  crops  are,  grain  of  different  kinds,  potatoes, 
and  turnips  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  advanced,  and 
much  previously  unproductive  land  has  been  rendered 


G  A  L  S 


GAM  II 


fertile  by  the  practice  of  furrow-draining,  which,  by  the 
liberal  encouragement  afforded  by  the  proprietors,  has 
been  carried  on  to  a  very  great  extent.  The  dairy-farms 
are  extensive  and  well  managed,  and  about  '210  tons  of 
cheese  are  annually  produced  ;  the  cows  are  usually  of 
the  Ayrshire  breed,  and  considerable  numbers  of  black- 
cattle  are  reared.  The  sheep  are  of  the  black-faced  kind, 
and  much  attention  is  paid  to  the  improvement  of  live 
stock  generally.  The  farm-buildings  are  substantial 
and  commodious,  and  those  of  more  recent  erection  are 
of  superior  order  ;  the  lands  are  enclosed,  and  the  fences 
well  kept  up.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £10,44S. 

The  woods  are  of  oak,  elm,  ash,  and  other  forest-trees  ; 
and  the  plantations,  larch  and  fir,  intermixed  with  oak, 
ash,  and  elm.  The  substrata  are  red  sandstone,  alter- 
nated with  whinstone,  coal,  limestone,  and  ironstone  : 
the  general  dip  of  the  strata  throughout  is  north-west. 
In  the  channel  of  a  small  burn  running  into  the  Ir- 
vine, are  some  beautiful  pebbles  peculiar  to  this  place, 
called  Galston  pebbles  ;  and  on  Molrnont  hill  are  found 
numerous  nodules  of  agate  and  chalcedony.  Coal,  of 
which  there  are  three  seams  of  six  feet  in  thickness, 
and  one  of  three  feet,  and  limestone,  are  both  worked, 
but  not  to  any  great  extent  beyond  what  is  requisite  for 
the  neighbourhood  ;  and  paving  stone  and  roofing  slate 
are  quarried.  There  is  a  large  work  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  draining  tiles,  on  the  estate  of  the  Duke  of  Port- 
land, as  well  as  one  situated  on  the  lands  of  Mr. 
Brown,  for  the  supply  of  the  different  farms  ;  the  clay  is 
found  in  abundance,  and  of  good  quality.  Lanfine  is  a 
handsome  mansion  surrounded  with  extensive  grounds 
and  thriving  plantations  ;  Holms,  in  the  ancient  Eng- 
lish style,  is  a  modern  mansion  of  elegant  design  ;  and 
Cessnock,  an  ancient  house  belonging  to  the  Duke  of 
Portland,  is  an  interesting  structure.  The  village  is 
pleasantly  situated,  and  many  of  the  inhabitants  are 
engaged  in  weaving  for  the  manufacturers  of  Glasgow 
and  Paisley,  and  a  few  have  introduced  the  weaving 
of  fancy  silks.  There  are  four  corn-mills,  a  mill  for 
flax,  a  saw-mill,  and  a  paper-mill.  Four  fairs  are  held 
annually  in  the  village,  of  which  those  of  any  import- 
ance are  on  the  third  Thursday  in  April  and  the 
first  in  December.  A  penny  post  has  been  established 
here,  which  has  a  daily  delivery  ;  and  facility  of  com- 
munication is  afforded  with  Kilmarnock  and  the  neigh- 
bouring towns  by  roads  kept  in  excellent  repair,  of 
which  the  turnpike-road  from  Glasgow  to  London 
passes  within  the  limits  of  the  parish. 

Galston  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  patronage  of  the  Duke  of  Port- 
land ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £1J8.  16.,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum.  The  church, 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  is  a  neat  and  sub- 
stantial edifice  with  a  handsome  spire,  erected  in  1S0S, 
and  is  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  102S  persons. 
There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  United 
Secession  ;  likewise  a  Free  Church  place  of  worship, 
just  built.  The  parochial  school  is  well  conducted ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £55  fees,  and  a  house 
and  garden.  There  are  two  other  schools,  the  masters 
of  which  receive  an  annual  payment  of  £5.  12.  from  the 
heritors.  The  late  Mr.  Charles  Blair,  of  Longhouse, 
bequeathed  £4000  for  the  foundation  and  endowment  of 
a  free  school  in  the  parish,  when  the  bequest,  by  the 
461 


accumulation  of  interest,  should  produce  £200  per 
annum  :  this  has  been  very  lately  accomplished,  and 
the  establishment  is  now  in  operation.  John  Brown, 
Esq.,  of  Waterhaughs,  also  bequeathed  £1000,  the 
interest  of  which  is  appropriated  to  the  clothing 
and  education  of  children  of  the  poor.  There  are  the 
remains  of  a  very  extensive  Roman  camp,  the  ram- 
parts of  which,  though  in  some  places  greatly  obliter- 
ated by  the  plough,  still  mark  out  an  area  of  nearly 
300  yards  in  length,  and  120  yards  in  breadth.  On 
this  spot  was  found,  in  1831,  a  silver  coin  with  the 
legend  Ccesar  Augustus  Dim  F.  Pater  Patrice ;  and  to  the 
east,  in  the  parish  of  Avondale,  several  others  were  dis- 
covered, with  the  inscription  Divus  Antoninus.  The  vici- 
nity of  the  camp  was  the  scene  of  an  encounter  between 
William  Wallace,  who,  with  fifty  of  his  men,  lay  con- 
cealed here,  and  Fenwick,  an  English  officer,  with  a 
force  of  200,  whom  he  signally  defeated.  Other  coins, 
bearing  the  inscriptions  Alexander,  David,  and  Ed- 
ward, have  also  been  found.  On  the  bank  of  the  Avon, 
and  nearly  surrounded  by  the  river,  are  the  remains  of 
some  earth-works  called  Main  Castle,  most  probably 
connected  with  the  Roman  camp. 

GAMRIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Banff,  6£ 
miles  (E.)  from  Banff;  containing,  with  the  burgh  of 
Macduff  and  the  villages  of  Crovie  and  Gardenstown, 
4741  inhabitants,  of  whom  2001  are  in  the  rural  dis- 
tricts. The  name  of  this  place,  in  the  Gaelic  language, 
has  reference  to  a  memorable  victory  obtained  here 
over  the  Danes,  by  the  Thane  of  Buchan,  about  the 
commencement  of  the  11th  century,  in  gratitude  for 
which,  and  in  fulfilment  of  his  vow,  he  erected  the 
ancient  church  in  the  year  1004, which  date  maybe  seen 
over  one  of  its  windows.  The  parish  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  Moray  Frith  ;  on  the  east  by  the  burn  of 
Nethermill,  which  separates  it  from  the  parish  of  Aber- 
dour  ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  river  Doveran,  dividing  it 
from  the  parish  of  Banff.  It  is  about  ten  miles  in 
length,  varying  from  three  to  four  miles  in  breadth,  and 
comprises  an  area  of  21,500  acres,  of  which  10,000  are 
arable,  ~50  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  re- 
mainder, of  which  perhaps  4000  acres  might  be  brought 
into  profitable  cultivation,  rough  pasture  and  waste. 
The  surface  is  strikingly  diversified  with  hills,  precipi- 
tous rocks,  and  deep  glens,  most  of  which  are  covered 
with  verdure  ;  and  is  interspersed  with  fertile  valleys 
and  level  tracts  in  good  cultivation.  The  coast,  which 
is  more  than  ten  miles  in  extent,  is  bold  and  rugged, 
and  girt  with  an  indented  ledge  of  rocks  rising  precipi- 
tously to  a  height  of  600  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
Frith,  and  perforated  with  caverns  of  romantic  appear- 
ance. The  bay  of  Gamrie,  in  the  east,  is  formed  by  two 
projecting  headlands,  of  which  one  is  called  Gamrie 
Head,  and  the  other,  and  the  more  prominent,  is  Troup 
Head,  near  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish  ;  west- 
ward are  Melrose  Head  and  the  Coley  rock,  near  the 
harbour  of  Macduff,  in  the  bay  of  Banff.  The  rocks 
on  the  coast  are  frequented  by  multitudes  of  sea-fowl  of 
almost  every  variety,  of  which  the  most  numerous  are 
the  kittywake,  the  razor-bill,  the  guillemot,  and  the 
puffin,  each  selecting  its  peculiar  ledge  for  the  purpose 
of  incubation.  Haddocks,  ling,  cod,  and  herrings,  with 
various  kinds  of  flat  and  shell  fish,  are  taken  in  abun- 
dance, yielding  annually  on  an  average  a  return  of  more 
than  £13,000.     The  river  Doveran,  which  abounds  with 


G  A  M  II 


G  A  R  G 


salmon,  and  on  which  is  a  fishery  belonging  to  the  Earl 
of  Fife,  producing  a  rent  of  £"2000,  flows  along  the 
border  of  the  parish  into  the  bay  of  that  name  :  the 
burn  of  Nethermill  and  the  Logie,  of  which  the  former 
joins  the  sea  at  Nethermill,  and  the  latter,  after  a  cir- 
cuitous course,  falls  into  the  Doveran,  are  the  only 
rivulets  of  importance. 

The  soil,  which  is  extremely  various  in  different 
parts  of  the  parish,  has  been  greatly  improved  by  the 
use  of  lime  brought  from  England,  and  of  bone-dust,  as 
manure  ;  and  the  system  of  husbandry  has  been  gra- 
dually advancing.  The  chief  crops  are,  oats,  barley, 
potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  bear  is  raised  on  some  farms, 
but  wheat,  beans,  and  peas,  are  very  rarely  attempted. 
Large  quantities  of  grain  are  annually  sent  to  the 
London  markets,  and  barley  and  bear  are  sold  to  the 
breweries  and  distilleries  in  the  adjacent  districts.  The 
cattle,  of  which  considerable  numbers  are  shipped  from 
the  ports  in  the  parish,  are  generally  of  the  Aberdeen- 
shire, with  some  of  the  short-horned  breed  :  the  sheep, 
of  which  but  few  comparatively  are  pastured,  are  partly 
of  the  Cheviot,  and  partly  of  the  Leicestershire  breed. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  Gamrie  is  £8231.  There 
are  some  luxuriant  belts  of  natural  wood  in  the  western 
portion  of  the  parish  ;  and  very  extensive  plantations 
have  been  formed  in  the  Tore  of  Troup,  which,  toge- 
ther with  those  around  Troup  House,  extend  over  more 
than  700  acres,  consisting  chiefly  of  beech  and  Scotch 
fir,  with  larch,  the  last  now  becoming  more  prevalent. 
The  rocks  are  principally  composed  of  greywacke,  pri- 
mary slate,  and  granite ;  and  the  substrata  comprise 
red  sandstone  and  conglomerate  :  the  greywacke  is 
occasionally  quarried  for  building,  and  the  slate  was 
formerly  wrought  for  roofing,  but  has  been  superseded 
by  that  obtained  from  Foudland  and  Easdale.  Troup 
House  is  a  spacious  mansion,  built  in  1772,  and  com- 
manding an  extensive  view  of  the  sea ;  the  demesne 
is  tastefully  laid  out,  and  embellished  with  natural  wood 
and  thriving  plantations.  It  was  suffered  to  fall  into 
neglect  during  the  minority  of  the  present  proprietor, 
who  built  for  his  residence  a  picturesque  Norwegian 
cottage  at  Torewood.  There  is  a  small  hamlet  called 
Longman,  commenced  by  the  late  Earl  of  Fife,  who 
allotted,  in  small  portions,  some  waste  land  on  the  hill 
of  Longman,  on  the  road  from  Peterhead  to  Banff. 
Facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  the  turnpike- 
road  to  Banff,  and  by  various  other  good  roads  which 
intersect  the  parish ;  a  messenger  delivers  letters  on 
alternate  days  from  Banff  and  Fraserburgh,  and  appli- 
cation has  been  made  for  establishing  an  office  at  Dub- 
ford,  in  the  parish,  where  cross  roads  branch  off  in  all 
directions. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Turriff  and  synod  of  Aber- 
deen. The  minister's  stipend  is  £224.  13.,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £10  per  annum;  patron,  the 
Crown.  The  present  church,  erected  in  1830,  and  situ- 
ated in  a  central  part  of  the  parish,  is  a  handsome  struc- 
ture in  the  later  English  style,  and  contains  1 000  sittings. 
A  chapel  of  ease  in  connexion  with  the  Established 
Church  was  erected  and  endowed  by  the  late  Earl  of 
Fife,  at  Macduff,  to  which  a  district  of  the  parish  was 
attached  by  the  presbytery,  towards  the  close  of  the  last 
century.  The  parochial  schools  of  Gamrie  and  Macduff 
are  both  well  attended  :  the  master  of  each  has  a  salary 
462 


of  £25.  13.,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  a  portion  of 
Dick's  bequest;  the  fees  of  the  former  average  £25, 
and  of  the  latter,  £50.  A  school-house,  also,  has  been 
erected  at  Longman  by  the  Earl  of  Fife.  The  only 
striking  remains  of  antiquity  are  the  ruins  of  the  old 
church,  built  in  1004,  and  in  the  thick  walls  of  which 
were  imbedded  the  skulls  of  three  Danes  who  fell  in  the 
battle  previously  noticed,  of  which  one  is  preserved  in 
the  museum  of  the  literary  institution  at  Banff.  Some 
remains  of  the  Danish  camp  near  Gamrie  Head,  have, 
from  the  slaughter  that  took  place  there,  obtained  the 
appellation  of  Bloody  Pits  ;  and  there  is  also  an  ancient 
ruin  on  the  farm  of  Pitgair,  called  Wallace's  Castle,  but 
of  which  the  history  is  unknown. 

GARDENSTOWN,  a  fishing  village,  in  the  parish 
of  Gamrie,  county  of  Banff,  7  miles  (E.)  from  Banff ; 
containing  348  inhabitants.  This  place,  which  is  situ- 
ated on  the  eastern  shore  of  Gamrie  bay,  appears  to 
have  been  originally  built  about  the  year  1720,  by  Alex- 
ander Garden,  Esq.,  of  Troup,  from  whom  it  takes  its 
name,  and  whose  descendant  is  the  present  proprietor. 
The  village  is  neatly  built  at  the  head  of  the  bay ;  and 
the  inhabitants  are  chiefly  employed  in  the  fisheries  off 
this  part  of  the  coast.  The  fish  taken  here  are,  cod, 
ling,  haddocks,  whitings,  and  various  kinds  of  shell-fish, 
in  which  about  twenty-five  boats  are  generally  engaged  j 
and  during  the  season,  thirty-five  boats,  having  crews 
of  four  men  each,  are  occupied  in  the  herring-fishery. 
The  harbour,  though  small,  is  commodious  and  easy  of 
access,  affording  secure  shelter  to  the  boats  engaged  in 
the  fisheries  ;  and  there  are  also  three  vessels  belonging 
to  the  port,  of  130  tons'  aggregate  burthen,  employed  iu 
the  export  of  grain,  cattle,  and  fish,  for  the  London 
market,  and  in  the  importation  of  lime,  coal,  salt,  gro- 
ceries, and  other  goods.  Facility  of  communication 
with  Aberdeen  and  Banff  is  maintained  by  good  roads. 
There  is  a  small  place  of  worship  for  Protestant  dis- 
senters of  all  denominations,  situated  in  the  village,  and 
recently  erected. 

GARE LOCH-HEAD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Row, 
county  of  Dumbarton,  6  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Row  ; 
containing  217  inhabitants.  This  is  a  rising  village, 
situated,  as  its  name  imports,  at  the  head  of  the  Gare- 
loch,  a  beautiful  branch  of  the  Frith  of  Clyde ;  and 
consists  chiefly  of  a  collection  of  cottages.  The  loch 
extends  in  a  northern  direction  about  twelve  miles  into 
Dumbartonshire,  forming  the  east  side  of  the  peninsula 
of  Roseneath,  on  which  is  a  fine  seat  of  the  Duke  of 
Argyll ;  its  average  breadth  is  about  a  mile,  and  its 
greatest  depth  twenty-three  fathoms.  The  banks  are 
much  less  precipitous  than  those  of  the  neighbouring 
Loch  Long,  which  lies  on  the  western  side  of  the  penin- 
sula ;  and  southward  they  become  more  level,  and 
some  good  houses  are  built  on  them.  At  the  entrance 
of  the  lake  is  the  fine  village  and  watering-place  of 
Helensburgh.  A  chapel  in  connexion  with  the  Esta- 
blishment was  built  by  subscription  at  Gareloch-Head, 
about  1838  ;   and  there  is  also  a  school. 

GARGUNNOCK,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Stir- 
ling, 6  miles  (W.)  from  Stirling ;  containing  803  inha- 
bitants, of  whom  319  are  in  the  village.  This  place, 
anciently  called  Gargownno,  is  supposed  to  have  derived 
its  name  from  the  Celtic  words  Caer-guineach,  signifying 
"  a  pointed  or  conical  fortress,"  a  building  answering  to 
this  description,   called  the  Peel  of  Gargunnock,  being 


G  A  R  G 


GARI 


situated  near  the  north-eastern  extremity  of  the  locality. 
The  parish  is  skirted  on  the  south  by  the  Lennox  hills, 
■which  form  its  boundary  in  that  direction,  and  on  the 
north  by  the  river  Forth  ;  it  is  six  miles  in  length,  and 
four  in  breadth,  comprising  966S  acres,  of  which  5332 
are  under  cultivation,  3/62  natural  pasture,  and  574 
wood  and  plantations.  The  hills  rise  1400  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  command  from  their  summits 
one  of  the  most  extensive,  varied,  and  beautiful  views  in 
the  country;  and  from  them  the  whole  of  the  lands  slope 
northwards,  terminating  in  the  plain  reaching  totheForth. 
The  river  is  here  about  sixty  feet  broad  and  twelve  deep, 
and  contains  large  quantities  of  pike,  eels,  perch,  trout, 
and  salmon,  which  two  last,  however,  from  the  casting  of 
moss  into  the  stream,  are  not  so  numerous  as  formerly. 
In  addition  to  the  Forth,  with  its  picturesque  meander- 
ings,  and  besides  the  many  springs  in  the  parish,  which 
afford  a  constant  supply  of  excellent  water,  there  are 
several  burns  running  in  various  directions,  of  which 
those  of  Leckie,  Gargunnock,  and  Boquhan  abound  in 
fine  trout,  and  the  vicinity  of  the  last  is  enriched  by  a 
glen  of  its  own  name,  so  beautifully  wild  and  romantic 
as  to  produce  a  very  striking  effect  on  the  mind  of  the 
spectator.  Cascades  are  met  with  in  different  places, 
enlivening  the  mountain  ravines  ;  and  besides  almost 
every  description  of  wild  animals  and  birds  usually 
found  in  the  country,  the  district  is  remarkable  for  its 
roe-deer,  which  breed  in  the  glens  in  great  numbers. 

The  lauds  may  be  portioned  into  three  distinct  kinds, 
moor,  dry-field,  and  carse,  the  soils  of  which  vary  con- 
siderably. The  first  of  the  tracts,  on  which  sheep  and 
black-cattle  are  pastured  in  summer,  is  a  wet  gravel 
and  clay ;  the  dry-field  for  the  most  part  sandy  and 
clayey,  with  a  little  loam  ;  and  the  last-named  district  a 
deep  rich  clayey  earth,  resting  on  a  subsoil  principally 
of  blue  clay.  Below  this  blue  clay,  about  ten  feet  from 
the  surface,  is  a  layer  of  sea-shells,  which  is  indeed 
found  throughout  the  whole  strath  of  Monteath,  extend- 
ing twenty  miles  in  length  and  between  three  and  four 
in  breadth,  and  is  considered  a  certain  indication  of  this 
part  of  the  country  having  formed,  in  ancient  times,  a 
part  of  the  bed  of  the  ocean.  Afterwards,  this  extensive 
tract  was  overgrown  with  wood,  called,  in  the  time  of 
the  Romans,  the  Caledonian  forest,  and  cut  down  by 
that  people  in  the  beginning  of  the  third  century.  On 
the  dry-field  portion,  oats,  barley,  hay,  and  various 
kinds  of  green  crops,  constitute  the  chief  produce  ;  in 
addition  to  which,  wheat  and  beans  are  grown  on  the 
carse  land.  The  sheep  are  in  general  the  black-faced, 
and  Ayrshire  cattle  and  Clydesdale  horses  are  reared  ; 
many  swine,  also,  are  bred,  some  of  which  are  small, 
but  others  very  large.  Great  attention  is  paid  to  hus- 
bandry, and  the  rotation  of  crops  is  regularly  followed  ; 
draining  has  been  extensively  practised,  particularly  the 
improved  method  by  wedge-drains,  to  the  great  advan- 
tage of  the  soil ;  and  good  farm-houses  and  offices,  with 
excellent  fences,  have  been  raised.  Roads  have  been 
also  constructed  in  different  directions  :  and  these  various 
improvements,  with  numei-ous  others,  have  increased 
the  price  of  land  within  the  last  forty  years  to  double 
its  former  amount :  the  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish,  indeed,  is  now  £6S56.  The  rocks  in  the  hills 
consist  of  whinstone ;  and  those  in  the  dry-land  por- 
tion, of  red  and  white  sandstone,  of  each  of  which  there 
are  quarries.  Limestone  is  found  in  great  abundance 
463 


under  the  white  sandstone  ;  veins  of  spar  exist  near  the 
hills,  and  it  is  confidently  asserted  that  coal  might  be 
obtained  on  the  estate  of  Gargunnock  :  peat  is  plentiful 
on  parts  of  the  Lennox  range,  and  is  sometimes  cut, 
but  the  principal  fuel  in  use  is  coal  brought  from  Ban- 
nockburn,  nine  miles  distant.  The  natural  wood  com- 
prises oak,  ash,  birch,  and  willow  ;  the  plantations  con- 
sist principally  of  Scotch  and  silver  fir,  elm,  larch,  and 
plane. 

The  most  ancient  mansion  is  that  of  Gargunnock  ; 
the  next  is  the  seat  of  Boquhan,  built  about  the  begin- 
ning of  the  present  century,  and  the  barony  of  which 
name  was  formerly  possessed  by  the  Grahams.  Leckie 
is  a  more  modern  structure,  in  imitation  of  the  old 
English  baronial  residence,  surrounded  by  beautiful 
grounds,  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  strath  of 
Monteath.  Meiklewood  was  erected  very  recently  by 
Colonel  Graham,  to  whom  the  parish  is  indebted  for  a 
handsome  suspension-bridge,  built  over  the  Forth,  at 
his  own  cost,  about  twelve  years  since,  near  the  line  of 
the  Dumbarton  road,  and  also  for  a  new  road,  two  miles 
long,  running  from  the  bridge  to  the  great  road  from 
Stirling  to  Callander,  by  which  excellent  means  of  com- 
munication have  been  opened  through  a  highly  interesting 
tract  of  country.  The  village,  which  is  in  the  barony 
of  Gargunnock,  stands  on  a  declivity  near  the  church, 
and  commands  a  richly-diversified  prospect  of  the  sur- 
rounding country.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Stirling  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling,  and  in  the 
patronage  of  Sir  Francis  Walker  Drummond,  Bart.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £155,  of  which  about  a  sixth  part 
is  received  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  of  7  acres,  valued  at  £15.  10.  per  annum.  The 
church  was  built  in  1774,  and  is  a  plain  building  with 
three  galleries,  the  whole  containing  500  sittings.  The 
members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship. 
The  parochial  schoolmaster  receives  a  salary  of  about 
£26,  and  £11  fees.  There  is  a  subscription  library; 
and  the  parish  has  two  charitable  bequests,  one  of  £260, 
and  the  other  of  £365.  A  farmers'  club  was  instituted 
in  1796,  by  General  Campbell,  of  Boquhan.  At  the 
burn  of  Boquhan  are  two  chalybeate  springs,  which  are 
considered  of  great  efficacy,  though  not  much  frequented. 
Keir-hill,  the  top  of  which  measures  about  140  yards  in 
circumference,  was  a  fortified  station  in  the  thirteenth 
century ;  and  the  Peel  of  Gargunnock,  situated  on  an 
eminence  near  the  Forth,  and  surrounded  by  a  rampart 
and  ditch,  once  gave  protection  to  the  English  till  they 
were  dislodged  by  Sir  William  Wallace,  who  occupied 
Keir-hill. 

GARIOCH,  CHAPEL  OF,  a  parish,  in  the  district 
of  Garioch,  county  of  Aberdeen,  5  miles  (N.  W.)  from 
Inverury  ;  containing  203S  inhabitants.  This  place  was 
formerly  called  Logie  Durno  or  Durnock,  words  signi- 
fying "  a  low  or  hollow  place";  but,  upon  the  annexation 
of  the  parsonage  of  Fetternear,  situated  on  the  north  of 
the  river  Don,  to  that  of  this  parish,  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Urie,  early  in  the  seventeenth  century,  the 
church  of  Logie  Durno  was  disused,  and  a  new  one  built 
on  the  spot  where  had  once  been  a  chapel  called  Capella 
BeatcE  Marice  Virginis  de  Garryoch,  whence  the  present 
name  of  the  parish.  The  district  is  celebrated  in  his- 
tory for  the  sanguinary  battle  of  Harlaw,  which  was 
fought  here  on  the  24th  of  July,  1411,  between  the  Earl 
of  Mar,  who  commanded  the  royal  army,  and  Donald, 


G  A  R  I 


G  A  R  I 


Lord  of  the  Isles,  and  which  was  fatal  to  so  many  of  the 
nobility  and  gentry,  and  of  the  bravest  soldiers  in  the 
country,  that  Buchanan,  the  historian,  asserts  that  there 
perished  in  this  conflict  more  illustrious  men  than  had 
fallen  in  foreign  warfare  during  many  years.  Donald, 
having  ravaged  and  plundered  other  parts,  had  invited 
his  Highland  followers  to  seize  and  pillage  Aberdeen, 
and  was  proceeding  thither  for  that  purpose,  when  the 
Duke  of  Albany,  who  was  regent,  gave  to  the  Earl  of 
Mar  a  commission  to  collect  troops  to  oppose  him.  In 
consequence  of  this,  he  marched  from  Aberdeen  at  the 
head  of  a  noble  train,  gathered  from  different  quarters, 
and  met  Donald  with  a  force  nearly  ten  times  as  large 
as  his  own,  at  the  little  village  of  Harlaw,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  confluence  of  the  Water  of  Urie  with 
the  Don.  Here  the  earl  attacked  the  array  of  Donald, 
10,000  strong,  with  such  vigour  that  he  quickly  pene- 
trated into  the  midst  of  it ;  but  the  Highlanders,  mak- 
ing up  by  numbers  what  they  wanted  in  discipline  and 
in  armour,  returned  the  attacks  of  the  earl  and  his 
veterans  with  their  usual  courage  and  impetuosity,  and 
a  succession  of  conflicts  was  carried  on  through  the  day 
which,  while  they  produced  the  most  dreadful  carnage 
on  both  sides,  had  given,  when  night  ended  the  slaugh- 
ter, victory  to  neither.  The  Highland  chief  retired 
from  the  field ;  the  earl  was  compelled  to  remain  till 
the  morning,  through  wounds  and  exhaustion.  In  the 
following  century,  Queen  Mary,  in  her  journey  to  the 
north,  previously  to  the  battle  of  Corrichie,  passed  a 
day  here,  at  Balquhain  Castle,  the  ancient  seat  of  the 
Leslies,  and  is  said  to  have  attended  mass  in  the  parish 
church.  Many  years  afterwards,  the  unfortunate  Mar- 
quess of  Montrose,  when  the  Covenanters  had  triumphed, 
arrived  at  the  castle  of  Pitcaple,  in  the  custody  of  Gene- 
rals Leslie  and  Strachan,  who  thence  conducted  their 
illustrious  captive,  seated  on  a  Highland  pony,  and 
ignominiously  attired,  to  the  city  of  Edinburgh,  where 
he  was  executed  on  the  21st  of  May,  1650.  Charles  II., 
upon  his  return  from  Holland  in  the  same  year,  was 
entertained  at  this  castle,  in  a  very  sumptuous  manner, 
on  which  occasion  a  ball  took  place  on  the  lawn,  under 
a  thorn-tree  still  standing,  and  which,  for  size,  is  said 
to  exceed  all  others  in  this  part  of  Britain. 

The  parish,  the  figure  of  which  is  very  irregular,  is 
eleven  miles  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  and  varies 
in  breadth  from  two  to  five  miles.  It  comprises  11,427 
acres,  of  which  S342  are  under  tillage,  including  twelve 
acres  of  garden  and  orchard  ground;  1010  waste,  nearly 
900  acres  being  capable  of  profitable  cultivation  ;  110 
moss;  and  1965  wood  and  plantations;  besides  which 
there  are  between  1000  and  2000  acres  of  waste  on  the 
east  front  of  Benochie  hill,  which  is  a  common  to 
this  and  other  parishes.  The  surface  is  diversified  by 
two  considerable  ridges,  the  one  on  the  north,  and  the 
other  on  the  south,  side  of  the  Urie,  and  stretching 
nearly  in  the  same  direction  with  the  stream,  the  inter- 
jacent vale  being  well  defended  by  the  hilly  ground  on 
each  side,  and  watered  by  the  river  for  about  five  or 
six  miles.  The  Urie  is  celebrated  for  its  fine  trout,  and, 
at  a  small  distance  from  the  parish,  falls  into  the  Don; 
the  Don  is  well  stocked  with  salmon,  eels,  trout,  and  pike, 
and  forms  about  three  miles  of  the  southern  boundary  of 
the  parish  in  its  passage  to  the  German  Ocean,  which  it 
reaches  a  mile  from  Aberdeen.  The  eminence  on  which 
the  church  stands,  south  of  the  Urie,  and  by  which  the 
464 


old  turnpike-road  from  Aberdeen  passed,  commands,  in 
one  part,  an  interesting  view  of  local  and  distant  sce- 
nery, especially  of  the  Garioch  district,  the  prospect 
embracing  nine  churches. 

The  parish  is  entirely  agricultural ;  and  the  vale, 
interspersed  by  beautifully-formed  knolls,  of  which  that 
of  Dun-o-deer  is  most  conspicuous,  is  under  good  culti- 
vation. The  crops,  comprehending  grain  of  various 
kinds,  are  indeed  so  heavy  that  Garioch  is  frequently 
called  the  granary  of  Aberdeenshire  ;  and  they  are  in 
general  more  early  in  appearance  even  than  those  in 
some  of  the  southern  parts,  on  account  of  the  richness 
of  the  soil.  A  fine  black  loam  occurs  in  many  places  ; 
a  good  clay  in  others,  on  a  tilly  subsoil ;  and  near  the 
rivers,  a  rich  vegetable  mould,  on  gravel.  Wheat,  which 
formerly  was  grown  in  but  small  quantities,  is  now 
more  extensively  produced ;  and  all  the  usual  green 
crops  are  raised  in  abundance.  The  cattle  are  chiefly 
of  two  breeds,  each  of  which  is  a  cross  breed,  and 
are  much  prized  by  the  English  graziers,  who  fatten 
large  numbers  of  them  for  the  London  market.  -The 
rotation  system  of  husbandry  is  practised  ;  the  applica- 
tion of  bone  manure  has  been  found  of  great  service  to 
the  crops  of  turnips,  and  the  parish  has  been  greatly 
improved  in  various  other  respects  during  the  present 
century,  but  especially  by  the  inclosures  and  extensive 
drains  which  have  been  made,  and  by  the  building  of 
good  farm-houses  and  offices.  Much  waste  land  has  also 
been  reclaimed  ;  and  a  far  larger  number  of  cattle  than 
formerly  are  reared  for  sale,  through  the  advance  of 
turnip  husbandry.  The  parish  contains  seven  corn-mills, 
connected  with  which  are  five  barley-mills ;  another 
barley-mill,  and  a  lint-mill ;  two  mills  for  carding  and 
spinning  wool,  and  three  saw-mills.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  Chapel  of  Garioch  is  £7335.  The 
rocks  consist  of  whinstone  and  granite,  the  former  of 
which  comprises  nearly  the  whole  of  the  strata  to  the 
north  of  the  Urie,  and  for  two  miles  south  of  it ;  the 
granite  runs  through  the  remainder  of  the  district.  The 
hill  of  Benochie  supplies  the  stone  principally  used  for 
mansion-houses  and  farm -steadings ;  and  the  granite 
obtained  from  this  quarter  admits  of  a  fine  polish,  and 
has  been  employed  for  chimney-pieces  in  some  of  the 
best  residences.  The  wood  comprehends,  for  the  most 
part,  larch,  and  spruce  and  Scotch  fir,  and  has  nearly 
all  been  planted  within  the  present  century,  with  the 
exception  of  several  fine  old  plane,  horse-chesnut,  beech, 
and  fir  trees,  on  the  lawns  of  the  mansion-houses.  The 
seats  are  four  in  number,  and  contribute,  with  their 
beautiful  grounds  and  plantations,  to  heighten  in  no 
small  degree  the  general  effect  of  the  scenery.  Logie- 
Elphinstone  is  situated  upon  the  north  bank  of  the  Urie, 
and  that  of  Pitcaple  on  the  other  side ;  the  mansion  of 
Pittodrie  is  on  an  acclivity  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
hill  of  Benochie,  which  rises  1400  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  commands  extensive  prospects  ;  and  the  mansion 
of  Fetternear,  the  ancient  summer  residence  of  the 
bishops  of  Aberdeen,  built  in  1329,  by  Bishop  Kinin- 
month,  stands  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Don,  and,  like 
the  others,  is  pleasantly  situated.  A  new  road  has  been 
made  to  Aberdeen,  and  the  marketable  produce  is  gene- 
rally sent  to  that  city,  being  conveyed  to  Port-Elphin- 
stone,  six  miles  distant,  and  thence  transmitted  to  its 
destination  by  the  canal. 

Chapel  of  Garioch  is  the  seat  of  the  presbytery  of 


G  ARM 


GART 


Garioch,  in  the  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  is  in  the  pa- 
tronage of  Sir  Robert  Dalrymple  Horn  Elphinstone, 
Bart.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £21S,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  of  eighteen  acres,  valued  at  £16  per  annum. 
The  church  is  a  neat  and  commodious  edifice,  built  in 
1813,  and  contains  S00  sittings.  A  second  church  was 
opened  in  June,  1S39,  at  Blairdaff,  in  the  southern  part 
of  the  parish,  about  four  and  a  half  miles  from  the 
mother  church  ;  it  contains  500  sittings.  It  was  erected 
at  a  cost  of  about  £500,  by  subscription,  aided  by  a 
grant  from  the  General  Assembly's  church  extension 
fund ;  the  ground  for  the  site  and  burial-ground  was 
given  by  Robert  Grant,  Esq.,  of  Tillyfour.  The  accom- 
modation is  shared  by  a  part  of  the  adjacent  parishes  of 
Oyne  and  Monymusk,  which  subscribed  to  the  building, 
and,  with  the  portion  of  this  parish  attached  to  the 
church,  constitute  an  ecclesiastical  district  comprehend- 
ing 1000  persons.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church 
have  a  place  of  worship.  The  parochial  school  affords 
instruction  in  Greek,  Latin,  practical  mathematics,  and 
geography,  besides  the  elementary  branches  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £27 ,  with  a  portion  of  the  Dick  bequest, 
a  house,  and  £-20  fees.  There  are  two  other  schools, 
partially  supported  by  the  heritors,  in  which  the  ordi- 
nary branches  are  taught.  The  antiquities  within  the 
limits  of  the  parish  comprise  the  remains  of  old 
tombs  and  monumental  stones  of  warriors,  and  a  curious 
stone,  half  a  mile  west  from  the  church,  called  the 
"  maiden  stone,"  and  marked  with  several  hieroglyphics, 
supposed  by  some  to  be  Danish  ;  the  stone  is  about  ten 
feet  high  above  the  ground,  and  reaches,  as  is  thought, 
six  feet  below  the  surface.  The  ruins  of  the  churches  of 
Logie-Durno  and  Fetternear,  with  their  cemeteries,  are 
still  visible  ;  and  half  a  mile  to  the  south-east  of  the 
present  church,  is  the  ruin  of  the  castle  of  Balquhain, 
the  body  of  which  is  said  to  have  been  burnt  down  by 
the  Duke  of  Cumberland  in  17-46.  Near  the  castle  is 
a  Druidical  circle  in  good  preservation.  Sir  Walter 
Farquhar,  physician  to  George  IV.  while  Prince  Regent, 
was  the  son  of  the  Rev.  Robert  Farquhar,  for  many  years 
minister  of  the  parish.  The  Earl  of  Mar  takes  the  title 
of  Baron  Erskine  and  Garioch  from  this  district. 

GARLIESTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Sor- 
bie,  county  of  Wigton,  7  miles  (S.  S.  E.)  from  Wigton; 
containing  656  inhabitants.  This  is  a  considerable  mo- 
dern sea-port  village,  founded  by  John,  seventh  earl  of 
Galloway,  when  Lord  Garlies.  It  is  built  in  the  form 
of  a  crescent,  and  pleasantly  situated  along  the  head  of 
a  bay  which  bears  its  name  and  affords  safe  anchorage 
for  vessels  ;  and  is  an  excellent  fishing-station.  The 
shore  is  flat  and  sandy ;  the  depth  of  water  in  the 
bay,  between  twenty  and  thirty  feet ;  and  a  large  num- 
ber of  vessels  may  ride  at  anchor  in  safety  in  the  har- 
bour, which  is  open  to  Liverpool,  Whitehaven,  and 
other  places  on  the  western  coast  of  England.  About 
fifteen  vessels  belong  to  the  port,  of  from  fifty  to  100 
tons'  burthen  each ;  and  foreign  ships  occasionally 
touch  here.  In  the  village  is  a  rope  and  sailcloth 
manufactory.  There  are  two  schools,  largely  endowed 
by  the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Galloway,  in  which  a  num- 
ber of  children  have  gratuitous  instruction. 

GARMOND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Moncuhit- 
ter,  district  of  Turriff,  county  of  Aberdeen,  half  a 
mile  (N.)  from  Cuminestown  ;   containing  226  inhabit- 
ants.   It  is  situated  in  the  north-east  part  of  the  parish, 
Vol.  I.— 465 


on  the  road  from  Cuminestown  to  Banff,  and  is  a  mo- 
dern village,  having  been  built  subsequently  to  1739, 
when  Cuminestown  was  commenced. 

GARMOUTH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Spey- 
moutii,  county  of  Elgin,  4  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from 
Fochabers  ;  containing  604  inhabitants.  This  is  a  burgh 
of  barony,  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  Spey,  on  the 
road  to  Fochabers,  and  is  now  so  united  to  the  village 
of  Kingston  that  the  two  may  be  regarded  as  one  place. 
The  houses,  generally,  are  not  well  built  ;  but  the  streets 
are  regularly  laid  out,  and  the  appearance  of  Garmouth 
is  rather  neat  and  pleasing.  The  harbour  here  suffers 
under  some  natural  disadvantages  :  since  the  flood  of 
1S29,  it  has  been  far  from  secure,  and  it  is  at  present 
unfit  for  the  entrance  of  any  vessels  except  those  of 
small  burthen.  A  considerable  trade  was  formerly  car- 
ried on  in  timber,  but  it  has  very  much  declined.  There 
is,  however,  a  good  traffic  in  the  exportation  of  corn  and 
the  importation  of  coal,  and  some  excellent  vessels  are 
built ;  the  place  has,  besides,  the  benefit  of  a  valuable 
salmon-fishery  in  the  Spey.  About  twelve  vessels  be- 
long to  the  port,  of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  nearly  700 
tons.  The  parochial  school  is  here. — See  Kingston-Port. 

GARTCLOSS,  a  village,  in  that  part  of  the  parish 
of  Old  Monkland  which  formed  the  late  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Gartsherrie,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of 
Lanark,  2  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Coatbridge ;  containing 
206  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  the  north-eastern  part  of 
the  parish,  near  the  border  of  Cadder  parish,  and  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  Gartcloss  coal-mine,  one  of  the 
most  considerable  in  the  district :  the  inhabitants  are 
chiefly  employed  in  this  mine. 

GARTLY,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county  of  Banff, 
and  partly  in  the  district  of  Strathbogie,  county  of 
Aberdeen,  4  miles  (S.)  from  Huntly  ;  containing  1037 
inhabitants.  This  parish  is  divided  nearly  in  the  centre, 
by  the  river  Bogie,  into  two  portions,  of  which  the  one, 
called  the  Barony,  is  within  the  county  of  Banff,  and  is 
said  to  have  been  separated  from  Aberdeenshire  by  its 
proprietor,  Barclay,  one  of  the  feudal  barons  of  the  an- 
cient earls  of  Huntly,  who,  being  at  that  time  sheriff 
of  Banff,  was  desirous  of  having  his  property  under  his 
own  immediate  jurisdiction.  The  other  portion  of  the 
parish,  called  the  Braes,  is  in  the  county,  and  within 
the  controul  of  the  sheriff,  of  Aberdeen.  Few  events  of 
historical  importance  have  occurred  with  respect  to  this 
place,  which  is  chiefly  distinguished  for  a  visit  by  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots,  who,  on  her  return  from  an  excursion 
to  Inverness  and  Ross  shire,  spent  a  night  at  Gartly 
Castle,  the  baronial  residence  of  the  Gordon  family,  of 
which,  though  now  in  ruins,  some  small  portion  is  still 
remaining.  The  parish,  irregular  in  form,  is  about 
twelve  miles  in  length,  and  four  miles  and  a  half  in 
breadth,  and  comprises  about  17,000  acres,  of  which 
5600  are  arable,  11,000  pasture,  moorland,  and  moss, 
and  the  remainder,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  acres  of 
natural  wood  and  plantations,  roads  and  waste.  The 
surface  is  diversified  with  hills  and  valleys,  and  with 
numerous  glens  of  highly  picturesque  appearance  :  from 
the  hills  many  rivulets  descend  into  the  Bogie,  which 
rises  in  Auchindoir,  and,  after  winding  for  fourteen 
miles  through  this  parish  and  that  of  Rhynie,  joins  the 
Doveran  near  Huntly,  and  falls  into  the  sea  at  Banff. 
The  eastern  and  western  parts  of  the  parish  are  espe- 
cially hillv,  and  have  extensive  moors  abounding  with 

30 


G  A  RT 


G  ART 


grouse  and  other  game ;  the  hills  are  covered  with  moss, 
which  supplies  both  Gartly  and  the  town  of  Huntly 
with  fuel,  and  particularly  the  mosses  in  the  west  are  of 
great  depth.  The  glen  of  Tylliminnet  is  richly  embel- 
lished with  a  fine  wood  of  birch  and  several  young  and 
thriving  plantations,  and  is  seen  among  the  surrounding 
bills  with  the  most  romantic  effect ;  the  banks  of  the 
river  are  planted  with  alder,  but  there  is  little  other 
wood  in  the  parish.  The  moors  are  well  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  timber,  and  if  planted  it  would  tend  much  to 
the  improvement  of  the  parish  ;  a  considerable  portion, 
also,  of  the  moors  might,  at  a  moderate  outlay,  be 
brought  into  a  profitable  state  of  cultivation. 

The  soil,  especially  in  the  lower  grounds  and  valleys, 
is  extremely  fertile,  producing  abundant  crops  ;  and  the 
system  of  agriculture  is  advanced  :  the  five-shift  course 
of  husbandry  is  generally  prevalent,  and  is  found  best 
adapted  to  the  climate  and  soil.  Since  the  introduction 
of  turnip  cultivation,  the  breed  of  cattle,  to  which  much 
attention  is  paid,  has  been  greatly  improved;  the  prin- 
cipal kinds  are  the  old  Aberdeenshire,  crossed  by  the 
Argyleshire,  which  is  found  to  answer  well.  But  few 
sheep,  not  more  than  about  1700,  and  these  chiefly  the 
black-faced,  are  pastured  on  the  hills.  The  substratum 
is  mostly  gravel :  limestone  is  also  found,  but  in  so 
small  quantity,  and  at  such  a  depth,  as  to  render  the 
working  of  it  unprofitable  to  the  farmer,  who  can  obtain 
it  in  the  neighbouring  parish  of  Cairnie  at  less  expense. 
On  several  of  the  hills  are  quarries  of  slate  of  good 
quality,  the  working  of  which  affords  remunerative  em- 
ployment to  many  labourers.  Much  improvement  has 
been  recently  made  in  draining,  and  considerable  portions 
of  waste  have  been  reclaimed,  particularly  on  the  farm 
of  Bucharn  by  Mr.  George  Gordon,  who,  in  1828,  received 
the  gold  medal  from  the  Highland  Society,  and  who 
has  also  divided  and  inclosed  his  lands  with  stone  walls. 
The  farm-buildings  are  substantial  and  commodious ; 
and  there  are  tolerable  facilities  of  intercourse  with  the 
neighbouring  market-towns  by  the  turnpike-road  which 
passes  through  the  parish  for  nearly  four  miles.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  Gartly  is  £4437. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  presbytery  of 
Strathbogie  and  synod  of  Moray.  The  minister's  sti- 
pend is  £191.  6.  5.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£16  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Duke  of  Richmond.  The 
church,  an  ancient  building,  was  erected  in  1621  ;  but, 
with  the  exception  of  the  steeple,  little  of  the  original 
edifice  is  remainiug  :  it  has  undergone  many  alterations 
within  the  last  twenty  years,  and  now  affords  accom- 
modation to  nearly  600  persons.  The  members  of  the 
Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship.  The  parochial 
school  affords  a  useful  education ;  the  salary  of  the 
master  is  £32.  10.,  with  £20  fees,  and  a  house  and 
garden.  The  parochial  library  contains  more  than  200 
volumes.  Some  slight  remains  exist  of  Gartly  Castle ; 
and  till  lately  there  were  several  tumuli  on  the  farm  of 
Mill  Hill,  near  the  church,  where,  according  to  tradition, 
a  skirmish  took  place  in  1411.  They  have  almost  all 
been  levelled :  in  one  of  them  were  found  two  ancient 
dirks,  and  in  another  some  brass  buckles,  supposed 
to  have  been  used  to  fasten  the  sword-belts  of  the 
warriors.  On  the  farm  of  Faich  hill  has  been  dis- 
covered an  urn  containing  bones ;  and  on  the  lands  of 
Cockston  was  recently  found  an  urn  of  clay,  in  which 
were  numerous  round  pieces  of  stamped  leather,  thought 
466 


to  have  been  anciently  current  for  money.  A  stone 
coffin  was  found  on  the  lands  of  Coldran  by  Captain 
Gordon,  but  nothing  is  known  of  its  history  ;  and  in  a 
vault  in  the  church  are  preserved  the  ashes  of  Viscount 
Aboyne,  and  of  John  Gordon,  laird  of  Rothiemay,  with 
some  of  their  followers,  who  were  burned  in  the  old 
tower  of  Frendraught,  in  the  parish  of  Forgue,  in  1630. 
At  Muirellis,  James  I.  is  said  to  have  passed  an  evening 
with  the  tenant  of  that  farm,  which  he  visited  incognito, 
and  to  have  been  so  much  pleased  with  the  hospitality 
of  his  host,  that  he  obtained  from  the  Earl  of  Huntly  a 
grant  that  he  and  his  descendants  should  have  posses- 
sion of  the  land  rent-free.  It  is  also  on  record,  that  an 
infant  son  of  the  Baron  of  Gartly  was  drowned  by  an 
inundation  of  the  Bogie,  in  returning  from  the  chapel  of 
Brawlinknows,  after  receiving  the  rite  of  baptism. 

GARTMORE,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Port  of  Monteith,  county  of  Perth,  15 
miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Doune  ;  containing  347  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  253  are  in  the  village.  This  district  is 
about  two  miles  and  a  half  in  length,  and  one  mile  and 
a  half  in  breadth,  and  comprises  about  1360  acres,  of 
which  760  are  in  tillage  and  pasture,  200  under  plan- 
tation, and  400  uncultivated.  The  surface  partakes  of 
the  general  mountainous  character  of  the  Highland 
country  of  which  it  forms  a  part,  and  the  prevailing 
scenery  is  beautifully  diversified  ;  the  substratum  is  red 
sandstone.  The  river  Forth  flows  on  the  north  and 
north-east,  the  Kelty  on  the  south,  and  the  road  from 
Dumbarton  to  Stirling  passes  within  four  miles.  A 
market  or  fair  takes  place  on  the  16th  of  June,  at  which 
cattle  of  all  descriptions  are  exposed  for  sale,  and  ser- 
vants for  the  ensuing  year  are  engaged.  Gartmore 
House,  a  substantial  and  very  commodious  mansion,  is 
of  considerable  antiquity,  and  stands  in  grounds  taste- 
fully embellished,  and  commanding  some  interesting 
views.  The  village  is  pleasantly  situated,  and  has  a 
rural  aspect ;  the  inhabitants  are  chiefly  employed  in 
agriculture,  and  partly  in  the  handicraft  trades  requisite 
for  the  wants  of  the  district.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  under  the  presbytery  of  Dunblane  and  synod  of 
Perth  and  Stirling,  and  the  patronage  is  vested  in  the 
communicants  :  the  church,  erected  in  1 790,  at  an  ex- 
pense of  £400,  raised  by  subscription,  is  a  neat  plain 
edifice,  containing  415  sittings.  The  members  of  the. 
Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship;  and  there  are 
two  schools. 

GARTSHERRIE,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Old  Monkland,  county  of  Lanark  ;  con- 
taining, with  the  villages  of  Coatbridge,  Coatdyke,  Gart- 
closs,  Merrystone,  and  Summerlee,  5906  inhabitants,  of 
whom  1499  are  in  the  village  of  Gartsherrie,  2  miles 
(W.)  from  Airdrie.  This  is  a  considerable  mining  dis- 
trict, in  the  works  connected  with  which  the  chief  of 
the  population  are  employed :  the  iron-works  are  of 
great  magnitude,  and  include  a  number  of  blast-furnaces 
for  the  smelting  of  the  ore.  The  coal-mine  here  is  also 
worked  on  a  very  extensive  scale ;  there  are  five  strata 
of  coal,  between  each  of  which  is  a  stratum  of  sandstone 
and  shale  :  the  seams  of  coal  vary  in  thickness  from 
one  foot  four  inches  to  four  feet.  The  Glasgow  and 
Garnkirk  railway,  which  starts  from  St.  Rollox,  in  the 
north-east  quarter  of  the  city,  joins  the  Monkland  and 
Kirkintilloch  railway  at  this  place.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  under  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton  and  synod 


GARY 


GARY 


of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  the  patronage  is  vested  in  the 
subscribers  to  the  church  :  the  stipend  of  the  minister 
is  £150,  secured  by  bond.  The  church,  erected  at  a 
cost  of  £3300,  is  an  elegant  structure,  with  a  tower 
rising  to  the  height  of  136  feet,  and  contains  1500 
sittings.  Near  it  is  the  Academy,  erected  in  1844,  at  a 
cost  of  £2300  ;  and  there  is  a  large  Sabbath  school  in 
connexion  with  the  Establishment. 

GARTWHINEAN,  EASTER  and  WESTER,  ham- 
lets, in  the  parish  of  Fossoway  and  Tulliebole,  county 
of  Perth,  2  miles  (E.)  from  Dollar;  the  one  containing 
96,  and  the  other  49  inhabitants.  These  places  lie  on 
the  south  side  of  the  river  Devon,  which  here  separates 
the  parish  from  that  of  Muckart.  A  rocky  pinnacle  in 
the  neighbourhood,  called  Gibson's  Crag,  was  the  ren- 
dezvous of  the  chiefs  of  the  Murrays. 

GARVALD  and  BARA,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Haddington,  5  miles  (S.  E.  by  E.)  from  Haddington  ; 
containing  S62  inhabitants,  of  whom  257  are  in  the 
village.  Garvald  derives  its  name,  signifying  in  the 
Gaelic  language  "the  rough  water,"  from  the  situation 
of  its  village  on  a  rapid  and  impetuous  stream,  forcing 
its  way  through  a  channel  of  rugged  fragments  of  rock, 
and  which,  after  floods  or  continued  rains,  in  the  vio- 
lence of  its  course  throws  out  stones  of  great  weight 
upon  the  low  grounds.  Garvald  and  Bara  were  united 
in  1702,  and  service  was  alternately  performed  in  the 
church  of  each  parish  till  the  year  1744,  when  that  of 
Bara  fell  into  a  state  of  dilapidation.  The  parish  is 
nearly  nine  miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  and 
almost  five  in  breadth,  from  north  to  south  ;  and  is 
bounded  on  the  north  and  east  by  the  parish  of  Whit- 
tingham,  on  the  south  by  that  of  Lauder,  in  Berwick- 
shire, and  on  the  west  by  the  parishes  of  Gifford,  Had- 
dington, and  Morham.  The  surface  is  varied,  rising  in 
elevation  towards  the  Lammermoor  hills,  displaying  in 
some  parts  an  intermixture  of  heath  and  grass,  and  in 
others  being  richly  cultivated  and  covered  with  luxu- 
riant verdure.  The  soil,  in  several  places  is  a  deep 
loam,  resting  upon  clay,  and  exceedingly  fertile  ;  and  in 
others,  of  a  light  gravelly  nature,  well  adapted  for  the 
growth  of  turnips  and  potatoes,  both  of  which  are  raised 
to  a  very  considerable  extent.  The  chief  crops  are  oats 
and  barley,  with  some  wheat,  potatoes,  turnips,  beans, 
and  peas;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  highly  improved; 
the  farms  are  thoroughly  drained  and  well  inclosed,  and 
much  ground  that  was  formerly  barren  heath  has,  by  a 
liberal  use  of  lime,  been  brought  into  an  excellent  state 
of  cultivation.  The  higher  lands  afford  fine  pasturage 
for  sheep,  of  which  more  than  7000  are  annually  reared, 
chiefly  of  the  black-faced  and  Cheviot  breeds,  with  an 
occasional  cross  of  the  Leicestershire,  which  appears  to 
answer  well ;  about  300  black-cattle,  also,  are  annually 
fed  and  fattened  for  the  butcher.  The  farm-houses  and 
offices  are  substantial,  and  all  the  recent  improvements 
in  agricultural  implements  have  been  generally  adopted. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  Garvald  and  Bara  is 
£7571. 

Nunraw,  a  seat  in  the  parish,  was  anciently  a  nun- 
nery, a  cell  belonging  to  the  priory  of  Haddington ;  a 
great  portion  of  the  building  has  been  modernised,  but 
it  still  displays  many  indications  of  antiquity.  Hopes 
is  an  elegant  mansion  built  by  the  present  owner;  it  is 
pleasantly  situated  in  a  sequestered  glen,  near  the  Lam- 
mermoor hills,  and  in  a  well-disposed  demesne,  en- 
467 


riched  with  thriving  plantations  formed  by  the  pro- 
prietor, who  has  also  added  greatly  to  the  beauty  and 
interest  of  the  parish  by  various  others  on  the  estate. 
The  village  is  neatly  built/and  has  facility  of  communi- 
cation with  neighbouring  places  by  good  roads  kept  in 
repair  by  statute  labour,  and  by  the  turnpike-road  from 
Dunse  to  Haddington,  which  passes  for  six  miles  through 
the  parish.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  are  employed  in 
weaving,  and  in  the  various  trades  requisite  for  the 
supply  of  the  parish  ;  and  several  are  engaged  in  some 
freestone  quarries  situated  near  the  village.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
presbytery  of  Haddington  and  synod  of  Lothian  and 
Tweeddale.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £189 ; 
the  manse  is  a  comfortable  residence,  erected  in  1820, 
and  the  glebe  comprises  thirteen  and  a  half  acres  of  land, 
valued  at  £25  per  annum  :  the  church  is  an  ancient 
structure,  repaired  and  enlarged  in  1S29  ;  it  is  adapted 
to  a  congregation  of  360  persons,  and  contains  fifty  free 
sittings,  but  is  inconveniently  situated  at  one  extremity 
of  the  parish.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a 
place  of  worship.  The  parochial  school  affords  a  useful 
education  to  about  sixty  children ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  about  £16  per  annum.  There  are  two  friendly 
societies,  which  render  much  assistance  to  the  poor  not 
on  the  parish  list.  Near  the  Lammermoor  hills  are  the 
ruins  of  Whiteeastle,  a  strong  ancient  fortress,  erected 
for  the  defence  of  a  pass  from  the  Merse  and  from  the 
English  frontier.  On  the  lands  of  Garvald  farm  are  the 
remains  of  a  circular  encampment,  about  1500  feet  in 
circumference  :  there  was  also  a  similar  camp  on  the 
lands  of  Carfrae,  the  stones  of  which  were  used  to  form 
an  inclosure  ;  and  in  removing  them  for  that  purpose, 
the  brass  handle  of  a  sword  was  discovered.  At  New- 
lands  are  tumuli  called  respectively  the  Black  and  the 
Green  Castle  ;  the  spot  was  planted  by  the  Marquess  of 
Tweeddale,  within  the  last  few  years,  with  Scotch  firs. 
There  are  also  two  other  encampments,  one  on  Park 
farm,  and  the  other  on  the  estate  of  Hopes. 

GARVELLOCH,  or  Holy  Islands,  a  cluster  of 
small  islands,  in  the  parish  of  Jura  and  Colonsay, 
district  of  Islay,  county  of  Argyll.  These  islands, 
which  are  situated  in  the  Atlantic,  to  the  west  of  Balna- 
huaigh,  obtained  their  second  name  from  having  been 
the  residence  of  the  monks  of  Iona  previously  to  the 
foundation  of  that  monastery  ;  and  there  are  still  some 
remains  of  a  chapel  and  cemetery,  and  of  the  ancient 
conventual  buildings.  The  isles  are  the  property  of 
Colin  Campbell,  Esq.,  of  Jura,  to  whom  they  pay  a 
rental  of  £150  per  annum,  derived  chiefly  from  their 
excellent  pasture  for  sheep  and  black-cattle.  Here  is 
also  a  marble-quarry,  which  appears  to  have  been 
wrought  at  a  very  early  period,  and  of  which  some  of 
the  produce  is  to  be  seen  in  the  castle  of  Inverary. 

GARVOCK,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Kincardine, 
2  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from  Laurencekirk  ;  containing  446 
inhabitants.  This  place,  of  which  the  name,  in  the 
Gaelic  language,  is  descriptive  of  the  general  appearance 
of  its  surface,  formed  part  of  the  ample  possessions  of 
the  Keiths,  earls-marischal  of  Scotland,  who  occasionally 
resorted  to  it  for  the  diversion  of  hunting;  but  since 
1715,  when  the  estate  was  forfeited,  the  lands  have 
been  divided  among  several  proprietors,  of  whom  the 
Earl  of  Kintore   is  the  principal.     Though  few  traces  of 

3  02 


G  A  R  V 


G  A  S  K 


its  original  character  are  now  remaining,  it  appears  to 
have  been  one  extensive  forest ;  and  within  its  limits, 
in  the  reign  of  James  I.,  was  perpetrated  the  inhuman 
murder  of  Melville,  of  Glenbervie,  sheriff  of  Mearns, 
whom  Barclay,  laird  of  Mathers,  and  others,  had  trea- 
cherously invited  to  join  them  on  a  hunting  party. 
The  parish  is  rather  more  than  seven  miles  in  length, 
and  nearly  four  miles  in  extreme  breadth,  comprising 
an  area  of  S500  acres,  of  which  2900  are  arable,  100 
woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder,  of  which 
about  one-half  might  be  reclaimed,  moorland  pasture 
and  waste.  The  surface  in  the  central  portion  is  a 
hollow  plain,  surrounded  by  ascending  grounds  except 
on  the  east ;  in  other  parts  it  is  gently  undulated, 
rising,  towards  the  south-west,  into  the  hills  of  Gar- 
vock,  which  have  an  elevation  of  750  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  command  from  their  summit  an 
unbounded  and  richly-diversified  prospect.  There  are 
numerous  springs  of  excellent  water  in  various  parts, 
and  at  the  north-west  base  of  Garvock  hill  is  one 
strongly  impregnated  with  chalybeate  properties  :  but 
the  only  river  connected  with  the  parish  is  the  Water 
of  Bervie,  which  forms  a  portion  of  its  north-east 
boundary,  and  falls  into  the  sea  at  Bervie. 

The  soil  is  naturally  wet,  resting  on  a  subsoil  of 
clay  ;  on  the  higher  grounds,  light  and  gravelly ;  and 
in  the  lowlands,  chiefly  alluvial  deposit.  The  crops 
are,  oats,  barley,  and  bear,  with  potatoes  and  turnips  : 
wheat  has  been  raised,  and  also  peas,  though  not  with 
any  degree  of  success ;  beans,  however,  have  been  re- 
cently introduced  with  every  prospect  of  a  fair  return. 
The  system  of  husbandry  has  been  greatly  advanced 
within  the  last  few  years  ;  considerable  tracts  of  waste 
have  been  reclaimed,  and  brought  into  profitable  cul- 
tivation, by  draining  and  the  use  of  lime ;  but  the 
farm-buildings,  with  few  exceptions,  are  still  of  very 
inferior  order,  and  the  lands  are  only  partially  inclosed. 
Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  management  of  the  dairy- 
farms,  and  the  butter  made  here  obtains  a  decided  pre- 
ference in  the  market.  The  cattle  are  generally  the 
Angus,  with  a  mixture  of  the  Aberdeenshire  breed ; 
much  care  is  bestowed  on  their  improvement,  and  large 
numbers  are  sent  to  London  :  few  sheep  are  bred.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3285.  There 
are  some  small  remains  of  ancient  wood ;  and  the 
plantations,  which  are  chiefly  of  recent  growth,  consist 
of  larch,  and  spruce  and  Scotch  firs,  interspersed  with 
ash,  beech,  and  plane,  all  which,  with  the  exception  of 
the  larch  and  Scotch  fir,  are  in  a  thriving  condition. 
The  rocks  are  mostly  sandstone,  conglomerate,  and 
trap  :  a  coarse  kind  of  limestone  occurs  in  the  hill  of 
Garvock.,  though,  from  the  difficulty  of  access,  it  is 
not  wrought;  and  red  sandstone,  of  good  quality  for 
building,  is  occasionally  quarried. 

There  is  no  village,  or  even  hamlet  of  any  importance, 
in  the  parish.  A  fair  was  formerly  held  annually  on 
the  hill  of  Garvock,  on  the  third  Tuesday  in  July  (O.  S.), 
and  continued  for  three  following  days,  for  the  sale  of 
sheep,  cattle,  merchandise,  and  for  hiring  servants  ;  it 
was  called  St.  James'  fair,  but  has  recently  been  re- 
moved by  the  proprietor  of  the  tolls.  A  messenger 
from  the  post-office  of  Laurencekirk  arrives  every 
morning,  and  returns  in  the  afternoon ;  and  facility  of 
communication  is  maintained  by  good  roads,  which 
have  been  recently  made.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
46S 


under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  For- 
doun,  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  £177-  Hi  9-,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £20  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The 
church  is  a  neat  structure  erected  in  1778,  and  contains 
300  sittings.  The  parochial  school  is  attended  by  about 
sixty  children;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £31,  with 
a  house,  and  an  allowance  of  £2.  2.  for  garden,  and  the 
fees  average  £15.  The  present  minister,  the  Rev.  John 
Charles,  has  assigned  £100,  the  interest  to  be  paid  to 
the  master  for  the  gratuitous  instruction  of  poor  chil- 
dren. A  parochial  library,  now  containing  490  volumes, 
was  established  in  1S35.  There  are  numerous  cairns, 
and  many  Druidical  remains,  in  various  parts  of  the 
parish  ;  and  on  the  farm  of  Nether  Tulloch,  under  three 
hillocks,  have  been  found  three  stone  coffins,  of  which 
two  contained  only  some  black  earth,  and  the  third  an 
urn  and  a  human  skeleton. 

GASK,  NETHER,  or  Findogask,  a  parish,  in 
the  county  of  Perth,  3  miles  (N.  W.  byN.)  from  Dun- 
ning ;  containing,  with  the  village  of  Clathy,  436  in- 
habitants. The  name  of  this  place  is  supposed  by  some 
to  be  derived  from  a  word  in  the  Gaelic  language,  sig- 
nifying "a  slope;"  but  its  etymology  is  extremely 
doubtful.  The  length  of  the  parish  is  about  two 
miles,  and  the  breadth  irearly  the  same ;  it  contains 
about  2560  acres.  The  ground  slopes,  on  each  side, 
from  the  Roman  causeway  which  runs  through  the 
middle  of  the  parish,  on  the  highest  ground :  the 
southern  side  is  a  pleasant  tract,  laid  out  in  cultivated 
fields  ;  on  the  other  slope,  towards  the  north,  are  plan- 
tations of  fir,  oak,  and  beech,  interspersed  with  corn- 
fields and  pastures.  The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  Madderty  and  Methven  parishes,  on  the  south  by 
Dunning,  on  the  east  by  Tibbermore  and  Forteviot,  and 
on  the  west  by  Trinity-Gask.  The  river  Earn  runs 
along  the  southern  boundary,  and,  though  not  navigable, 
is  a  considerable  stream,  the  line  of  whose  windings  in 
this  part  is  about  three  miles  in  length ;  it  contains 
salmon,  white  and  yellow  trout,  perch,  flounders,  pike, 
and  eels.  The  soil,  is  partly  clayey  and  partly  loamy  : 
in  the  northern  quarter  is  an  extensive  moss,  a  portion 
of  which  has  been  reclaimed  and  cultivated,  and  the 
rest  supplies  the  people  with  peat  for  fuel.  Grain  of 
all  kinds  is  produced,  as  well  as  green  crops,  the  whole 
of  good  quality  :  more  than  1200  acres  are  underwood, 
consisting  mainly  of  larch,  Scotch  fir,  and  oak  ;  and 
the  woods  abound  with  every  description  of  game.  The 
modern  system  of  agriculture  has  been  adopted  for  the 
last  thirty  years,  and  all  the  land  is  cultivated,  except 
the  part  under  wood  :  the  cattle  are  the  Teeswater  and 
Ayrshire  ;  the  sheep  are  the  Leicesters,  and  the  com- 
mon breed  of  horses  is  usually  reared.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3500.  The  rocks  con- 
sist" of  sandstone  and  grey  slate,  both  of  which  are 
quarried  ;   and  marl  is  found  in  different  places. 

The  mansion  of  Gask  is  the  residence  of  the  chief 
proprietor,  whose  ancestors  for  many  generations  have 
resided  on  the  property ;  it  is  a  commodious  and  sub- 
stantial building,  erected  in  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century,  and  ornamented  with  many  large  and  beautiful 
trees.  The  turnpike-roads  have  been  improved,  and 
the  parish  roads  are  in  a  tolerably  good  state ;  the  road 
from  Perth  to  Stirling  intersects  the  parish.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of 


G  A  S  K 


GATE 


Auchterarder  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling  ;  patron, 
the  Crown.  The  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £155,  with 
a  manse,  built  in  1S00,  and  a  glebe  of  twenty  acres, 
valued  at  £15  per  annum.  The  church  was  erected 
also  in  1800,  and  is  a  plain  edifice  in  good  repair, 
accommodating  nearly  400  persons  with  sittings,  all  of 
which  are  free.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which 
Latin  is  taught,  with  all  the  ordinary  branches  of  edu- 
cation ;  the  master  has  the  maximum  salary,  with  a 
house  and  garden,  and  about  £12  fees.  A  parochial 
library  was  founded  in  1824,  and  is  supported  by  sub- 
scription. The  Roman  causeway  which  runs  through 
the  parish  is  twenty  feet  broad,  and  has  been  macadam- 
ized within  these  few  years ;  it  leads  westward  to  a 
camp  still  visible  in  the  parish  of  Muthill,  and  eastward 
to  another  camp  in  the  parish  of  Scone.  By  its  side 
are  stations,  capable  of  containing  from  twelve  to  twenty 
men,  and  inclosed  by  ditches,  which  are  very  distinct. 
Within  the  policy  of  Gask,  vestiges  of  two  other  camps 
may  be  traced,  one  on  the  south,  and  the  other  on  the 
north,  of  the  causeway  ;  and  the  prretorium  of  the  latter 
is  yet  marked,  though  the  ground  has  been  planted 
with  fir.  One  of  these  camps  seems  to  have  been  capable 
of  containing  500  men,  and  the  other,  half  that  number. 
The  place  gives  the  title  of  Baron  to  the  ducal  family 
of  Murray. 

GASK,  TRINITY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Perth, 
2  miles  (N.)  from  Auchterarder,  and  4  (S.  E.)  from  Crieff; 
containing  620  inhabitants.  This  parish  derives  its 
name  Gask,  of  Gaelic  origin,  from  the  peculiar  nature 
of  its  surface,  consisting  almost  entirely  of  braes  and 
undulated  ground ;  its  distinctive  prefix,  Trinity,  arose 
from  the  union  of  three  districts,  which  constitute  the 
present  parish.  It  is  chiefly  situated  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  river  Earn,  and  in  the  picturesque  strath  to 
which  that  river  gives  name  ;  and  is  about  five  miles  in 
length,  and  three  in  breadth.  The  surface  is  pleasingly 
varied,  containing  but  few  tracts  of  level  land;  and  the 
scenery  is  enlivened  by  the  windings  of  the  Earn,  which 
flows  from  west  to  east,  displaying  much  beauty  in 
the  natural  wood  and  thriving  plantations  with  which 
its  banks  are  crowned.  The  soil,  greatly  differing  in 
various  parts,  has,  in  some,  been  rendered  productive 
by  draining,  and  by  the  construction  of  embankments 
to  protect  the  lower  lands  from  the  occasional  over- 
flowings of  the  Earn ;  and  through  the  improvement 
that  has  taken  place  in  the  system  of  agriculture,  a 
considerable  portion  of  barren  land  has  been  reclaimed 
and  brought  into  profitable  cultivation.  Of  the  whole 
number  of  acres  in  the  parish,  nearly  4300  are  arable, 
and  1000  in  woods  and  plantations ;  and  of  the  re- 
mainder, which  is  chiefly  moorland  and  waste,  it  is 
supposed  that  about  2000  acres  may  be  rendered  arable, 
when  the  measures  at  present  in  contemplation  for  that 
purpose  shall  be  completed.  The  river  abounds  with 
various  kinds  offish,  of  which  the  principal  are,  salmon, 
trout,  perch,  and  pike  ;  but  the  quantity  of  salmon 
has  greatly  diminished  since  the  use  of  stake-nets  has 
been  introduced  in  the  Tay.  The  crops  are,  grain  of 
all  kinds,  potatoes,  and  turnips  :  bone-dust  and  lime 
are  employed  as  manure,  but  on  account  of  the  expense 
of  bringing  those  articles  from  a  great  distance,  the 
quantity  is  not  adequate  to  the  wants  of  the  soil.  Great 
attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  cattle,  which  are 
mostly  of  the  short-horned  breed,  introduced  by  Lord 
469 


Strathallan,  and  which  are  found  to  answer  well  ;  the 
sheep,  though  very  limited  in  numbers,  are  chiefly  of 
the  Leicestershire  breed.  The  farm-buildings  are  sub- 
stantial, and  on  all  the  large  farms  are  threshing-mills, 
of  which  several  are  driven  by  water ;  there  are  also 
corn-mills  in  various  parts.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £4700. 

The  oldest  of  the  woods  are  Scotch  fir;  and  the 
plantations  of  more  modern  date  are  principally  spruce, 
larch,  oak,  and  beech,  all  of  which,  under  judicious 
management,  are  in  a  thriving  state.  The  substrata  are 
chiefly  sandstone  and  whinstone,  of  which  there  are 
several  varieties,  and  occasionally  a  gray  stone,  of  great 
compactness,  containing  a  portion  of  copper,  but  not 
sufficient  in  quantity  to  repay  the  cost  of  working  it. 
The  sandstone  and  whinstone  are  quarried  for  building 
purposes,  and  for  the  roads ;  but  the  stone  is  of  inferior 
quality.  Millearne,  a  seat  in  the  parish,  is  a  spacious 
mansion  in  the  later  English  style,  beautifully  situated 
in  grounds  laid  out  with  great  taste,  and  forming  a 
conspicuous  feature  in  the  landscape.  Colquhalzie  is  a 
handsome  mansion,  finely  seated  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  Earn,  and  commanding  some  highly  interesting 
views.  Facility  of  communication  with  the  neighbouring 
towns  is  afforded  by  good  roads  ;  a  ferry-boat  plies 
across  the  river,  and  at  Kinkell  is  a  bridge  of  four 
arches,  built  by  subscription  in  1793,  and  kept  in  ex- 
cellent repair.  An  agricultural  society  has  been  esta- 
blished in  the  parish,  for  the  promotion  of  husbandry 
by  the  distribution  of  prizes  to  the  successful  candi- 
dates in  ploughing  matches.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of 
Auchterarder  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling;  patron, 
the  Earl  of  Kinnoull.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is 
£230  ;  the  manse  is  a  commodious  residence,  and  the 
glebe  comprises  fourteen  and  a  half  acres  of  profitable 
land,  with  about  ten  acres  of  wood.  The  church  is 
adapted  for  a  congregation  of  about  350  persons,  but 
is  inconveniently  situated.  There  is  a  place  of  worship 
for  the  United  Associate  Synod.  The  parochial  school 
affords  a  useful  education  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34,  and  the  fees  average  about  £12  per  annum.  The 
poor  have  the  interest  of  a  bequest  of  £80.  Some 
remains  exist  of  an  ancient  castle  called  Gascon  Hall, 
of  which,  however,  there  are  no  authentic  records  ;  and 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  Roman  road  leading  to 
the  camp  at  Ardoch  is  within  the  parish.  A  kistvaen, 
containing  human  bones  and  ashes,  was  found  a  few 
years  since  upon  the  lands  belonging  to  the  Earl  of 
Kinnoull ;  it  consisted  of  four  upright  stones,  with  one 
lying  horizontally  on  the  top. 

GASSTOWN,  a  village^  forming  part  of  the  late 
quoad  sacra  parish  of  St.  Mary,  in  the  burgh  and 
county  of  Dumfries,  and  containing  162  inhabitants. 

GATEHOUSE  OF  FLEET,  a  burgh  of  barony, 
manufacturing  town,  and  port,  partly  in  the  parish  of 
Anwoth,  but  chiefly  in  that  of  Girthon,  stewartry  of 
Kirkcudbright,  7  miles  (W.)  from  Kirkcudbright; 
containing  1S32  inhabitants,  of  whom  419  are  in  the 
parish  of  Anwoth.  This  place,  which  was  built  on  the 
site  of  the  ancient  town  of  Fleet,  about  the  middle  of  the 
last  century,  takes  its  name  from  an  old  tenement,  the 
only  house  at  that  time  in  existence,  and  which  was  situ- 
ated at  the  gate  of  the  avenue  leading  to  Cally.  The 
mansion   of  Cally  was  the  family  seat  of  the  founder, 


GATE 


GELS 


and  is  now  the  residence  of  his  descendant,  Alexander 
Murray,  Esq.,  of  Broughton,  M.P.  for  the  stewartry, 
who  is  lord  of  the  manor,  and  the  superior  of  the 
burgh.  The  town  is  pleasantly  seated  on  the  river 
Fleet,  near  its  influx  into  the  bay  of  that  name,  and 
consists  principally  of  three  spacious  and  well-formed 
streets,  parallel  with  each  other,  and  of  which  the  eastern 
leads  to  a  handsome  stone  bridge  of  two  arches,  con- 
necting it  with  that  portion  of  the  burgh  lying  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river.  The  houses  are  well  built 
and  of  good  appearance ;  the  inhabitants  are  amply  sup- 
plied with  water  ;  and  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
town  abounds  with  pleasingly-diversified  and  interesting 
scenery. 

The  chief  manufacture  is  that  of  cotton,  introduced 
here  by  the  late  James  Murray,  Esq.,  who  for  that  pur- 
pose induced  Messrs.  Birtwhistle  and  Sons,  from  York- 
shire, to  erect  two  large  mills,  which  for  the  last  twelve 
years  have  been  conducted  by  their  lessees,  John 
Mc  Kie  and  Company,  by  whom  the  business  is  carried 
on  with  great  success.  One  of  these  mills  was  destroyed 
by  an  accidental  fire  in  1840,  but  has  been  rebuilt,  and 
fitted  up  with  machinery  of  the  most  improved  kind  ; 
and  both  are  in  full  operation,  affording  employment  to 
200  persons.  The  works  are  driven  by  two  water 
wheels  of  fifty-five  horse  power,  supplied  by  a  tunnel 
cut  from  Loch  Whinnyan,  at  an  expense  of  £1400  ;  and 
the  average  quantity  of  cloth  annually  made  is  60,000 
pieces,  of  twenty-four  yards  each  in  length.  A  brewery 
has  been  established  upon  a  moderate  scale.  There  is  a 
tannery  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river;  green  hides  are 
dressed  in  the  town,  to  the  amount  of  £400  annually ; 
and  about  60,000  bricks  are  made  in  some  works  a  little 
to  the  north.  The  trade  of  the  port  consists  chiefly  in 
the  exportation  of  different  cotton  goods,  leather,  and 
agricultural  produce  ;  and  in  the  importation  of  cotton 
wool,  timber,  lime,  coal,  wine,  and  groceries.  Several 
vessels  belong  to  the  port,  averaging  eighty  tons'  bur- 
then ;  and  in  1840,  the  number  of  vessels  that  entered 
inwards  was  forty-two,  of  93 1  tons'  aggregate  burthen  ; 
and  in  the  same  year,  sixteen  cleared  outwards,  of  395 
tons. 

The  harbour,  called  Boat-Green,  about  300  yards 
below  the  bridge,  is  accessible  for  vessels  of  160  tons, 
and  has  been  greatly  improved,  at  a  cost  of  nearly 
£3000,  by  Mr.  Murray,  who,  in  1824,  constructed  a 
canal  1400  yards  in  length,  into  which  he  diverted  the 
waters  of  the  Fleet,  which  previously  inundated  the 
lands  at  every  tide.  By  this  work,  the  navigation  from 
Fleet  bay  to'the  town  has  been  much  facilitated,  and  a 
considerable  tract  of  marshy  ground  reclaimed.  From 
two  rocks  on  opposite  sides  of  the  canal,  a  swivel  bridge 
has  been  thrown  across,  which  has  removed  the  road 
from  the  demesne  of  Cally,  and  affords  an  easier  ap- 
proach to  the  town.  A  market  is  held  on  Saturday,  and 
is  amply  supplied  with  provisions  of  all  kinds  ;  there  are 
large  markets  for  cattle,  for  eight  successive  weeks, 
beginning  on  the  first  Friday  in  November  ;  and  a  fair 
is  held  on  the  27th  June,  or  Monday  after.  The  town 
was  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony,  by  royal  charter, 
in  1795,  and  is  governed  by  a  provost,  two  bailies,  and 
four  councillors,  annually  elected  by  the  resident  £2 
proprietors.  The  magistrates  exercise  civil  and  cri- 
minal jurisdiction  within  the  burgh,  but  only  to  a  small 
extent ;  there  is  a  prison  for  the  temporary  confinement 
470 


of  petty  offenders,  but  it  is  seldom  used.  The  post- 
office  has  a  daily  delivery  ;  and  a  branch  of  the  Western 
Bank  of  Scotland  has  been  established.  Facility  of 
communication  is  afforded  by  good  roads  kept  in  re- 
pair by  statute  labour ;  and  the  turnpike-road  from 
Dumfries  to  Portpatrick  passes  through  the  town. 

GATESIDE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Beith,  dis- 
trict of  Cunninghame,  county  of  Ayr,  lj  mile  (N.  E. 
by  E.)  from  Beith  ;  containing  270  inhabitants.  It 
lies  in  the  northern  part  of  the  parish,  on  the  borders  of 
Renfrewshire,  and  a  little  east  of  the  road  from  Beith  to 
Paisley. 

GATESIDE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Kirkgun- 
zeon,  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright  ;  containing  23  in- 
habitants. 

GATESIDE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Neilston, 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  f-  of  a  mile 
(N.  N.  E.)  from  Neilston;  containing  673  inhabitants. 
This  village  has  arisen  from  the  establishment  of  the 
cotton  manufacture  in  this  part  of  the  parish,  soon  after 
its  introduction,  and  the  consequent  erection  of  a  spa- 
cious mill  for  spinning  and  weaving  cotton,  in  1786.  It 
is  neatly  built,  and  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  persons  em- 
ployed in  the  cotton-works,  and  in  the  printing  and 
bleaching  establishments  connected  with  them. 

GATTONSIDE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  and  district 
of  Melrose,  county  of  Roxburgh,  1  mile  (N.  by  W.) 
from  Melrose  ;  containing  252  inhabitants.  The  situa- 
tion of  this  village,  in  the  finest  part  of  the  vale  of  Mel- 
rose, is  romantically  beautiful.  It  is  seated  on  the 
southern  slope  of  a  hill  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Tweed, 
opposite  to  Melrose,  with  which  town  it  has  been  lately 
connected  by  a  wire  bridge.  The  houses,  which  are 
generally  thatched,  are  situated  amidst  orchards  and 
gardens  ;  and  a  greater  quantity  of  fruit  is  grown  here 
than  in  any  other  portion  of  the  vale.  The  inhabitants 
are  partly  employed  in  agriculture,  and  partly  in  the 
manufactures  of  Galashiels. 

GAVINTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Langton, 
county  of  Berwick,  1^  mile  (S.  W.  by  S.)  from  Dunse ; 
containing  206  inhabitants.  This  village  takes  its  name 
from  David  Gavin,  Esq.,  a  former  proprietor  of  the 
parish,  who,  finding  the  ancient  village  of  Langton  an 
impediment  to  the  extensive  improvements  he  was  mak- 
ing on  his  estate,  induced  the  inhabitants,  by  a  very  ad- 
vantageous grant  of  lands,  to  abandon  their  old  resi- 
dence, and  build  themselves  houses  on  the  site  of  the 
present  village.  It  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  a 
stream,  a  tributary  to  the  Blackadder  water,  and  also 
south  of  the  high  road  from  Dunse  to  Lauder.  The 
parochial  school  is  in  the  village. 

GEILSTONE-BRIDGE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Cardross,  county  of  Dumbarton,  5  a  mile  (N.  N.  W.) 
from  Cardross  ;  containing  133  inhabitants.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  the  east  side  of  the  coast  road  from  Dumbarton 
to  Helensburgh,  and  on  a  stream  -which  shortly  falls 
into  the  Clyde.  In  the  village  is  a  library  of  more  than 
400  volumes. 

GELSTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kelton,  stew- 
artry of  Kirkcudbright,  3|  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from 
Castle-Douglas  ;  containing  146  inhabitants.  It  lies  in 
the  eastern  part  of  the  parish  of  Kelton,  in  which  it  is 
now  comprehended ;  but  it  was  anciently  a  parish  of 
itself,  and  here  are  the  ruins  of  its  church,  which  fell 
into  decay  previously  to  1689,  when  the  union   of  the 


G  I  FF 


GIGH 


two  parishes  and  that  of  Kirkcormack  took  place.  A 
small  burn,  flowing  in  a  northern  direction,  passes  near 
the  village,  and  falls  into  the  Carlinwark  loch  ;  and  two 
others  take  a  south-eastern  course,  one  on  each  side  of 
Gelston  hill.  Gelston  Castle  was  built  by  the  late  Sir 
William  Douglas,  Bart.,  and  is  remarkable  for  the  ele- 
gance of  its  architecture,  and  the  romantic  beauty  of  its 
situation.  In  the  village  is  one  of  three  parochial 
schools.  Various  antiquities  have  been  discovered  in 
the  neighbourhood  :  on  opening  a  sepulchral  tumulus, 
near  Gelston,  a  stone  coffin  was  found,  seven  feet  long 
and  three  wide,  which  contained  human  bones  of  un- 
usual length  and  thickness. 

GEORGETOWN,  a  village,  in  the  Old  Church 
parish  of  Dumfries,  county  of  Dumfries  ;  containing 
154  inhabitants. 

GIBBIESTOWN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Meth- 
ven,  county  of  Perth  ;   containing  26  inhabitants. 

GIFFORD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Yester,  county 
of  Haddington,  4  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from  Haddington  ; 
containing  5'25  inhabitants.  This  village,  which  is  beau- 
tifully situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Gifford  water, 
and  in  the  picturesque  vale  of  Yester,  is  built,  chiefly  on 
lands  leased  from  the  Marquess  of  Tweeddale,  and  held 
by  tenure  of  certain  feudal  services.  In  consequence  of 
agreeing  to  render  these  services,  the  inhabitants  were 
exempted  by  the  marquess  from  various  taxes  and  im- 
posts, and  were  endowed  with  a  grant  of  common  land, 
comprising  sixty  acres,  valued  at  £100  per  annum,  and 
the  produce  of  part  of  which,  now  under  cultivation,  is 
applied  to  the  improvement  of  the  place.  The  mar- 
quess, as  lord  of  the  manor,  formerly  appointed  a  baron- 
bailie,  and  held  a  Birla  or  Boorlaw  court,  to  which  was 
attached  an  officer  called  a  constable,  who  long  retained 
his  office  :  this  court,  which  was  discontinued  only 
within  the  last  fifty  years,  exercised  jurisdiction  in  petty 
misdemeanors,  and  had  a  prison  and  stocks  for  the 
confinement  and  punishment  of  offenders.  The  vil- 
lage consists  principally  of  two  streets  of  regularly-built 
and  handsome  houses,  one  of  which  extends  in  a  line 
with  the  avenue  leading  to  Yester  House,  the  property 
of  the  marquess,  and  terminates  with  the  parochial 
school-house,  a  handsome  building  surmounted  with  a 
small  cupola  :  at  the  extremity  of  the  other  street  is  the 
parish  church.  The  inhabitants  are  employed  chiefly 
in  the  various  trades  requisite  for  the  supply  of  the 
vicinity,  and  partly  in  the  cultivation  of  the  adjacent 
lands.  The  weaving  of  linen  was  formerly  carried  on 
to  some  extent,  affording  occupation  to  more  than  twenty 
persons  at  their  own  houses  ;  but  since  the  introduction 
of  improved  machinery,  it  has  greatly  diminished,  and 
not  above  three  or  four  persons  are  little  more  than 
half  engaged  in  that  pursuit.  A  penny  post-office  has 
been  established,  which  has  a  daily  delivery  ;  and  the 
East  Lothian  Agricultural  Society  hold  an  annual  meet- 
ing here,  to  award  premiums  for  improvements  in  hus- 
bandry, and  for  the  best  pens  of  sheep.  Fairs  for  the 
sale  of  sheep,  cattle,  and  horses,  are. held  on  the  last 
Tuesday  in  March,  the  third  in  June,  and  the  first  in  Oc- 
tober, which  are  numerously  attended,  and  at  which  sel- 
dom less  than  4000  sheep,  500  head  of  cattle,  and  an  equal 
number  of  horses,  are  brought  for  sale.  All  the  poor 
used  to  receive  soup  three  times  in  the  week,  from  the 
kitchen  of  the  Marquess  of  Tweeddale,  when  the  family 
were  residing  at  Yester  House ;  and  they  still  derive  a 
471 


supply  of  fuel  from  his  grounds,  whence  the  wood  is,  in 
winter,  driven  home  to  their  doors. 

GIFFORDTON,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Col- 
lessie,  district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife  ;  containing 
71  inhabitants.  It  is  a  modern  hamlet,  the  houses  in 
which  are  generally  well  arranged  and  of  neat  appear- 
ance. 

GIGHA  and  CARA,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of 
Cantyre,  county  of  Argyll,  21^  miles  (S.  by  W.) 
from  Tarbert ;  containing  550  inhabitants.  Some  per- 
sons derive  the  name  of  the  former  of  these  two  dis- 
tricts from  the  compound  Gaelic  term  Eilean-Dhia, 
signifying  "  God's  island  ;"  others  are  of  opinion  that  it 
may  be  traced  to  the  word  geodka,  "a  creek,"  applied 
on  account  of  the  numerous  inlets  and  bays  here.  The 
word  Cara  is  supposed  to  signify  "  a  monastery."  The 
parish  consists  of  two  islands,  situated  in  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  between  the  southern  portion  of  the  island  of 
Islay  and  the  peninsula  of  Cantyre,  and  separated  from 
the  latter  by  a  channel  3§  miles  across,  in  which  the 
current  is  often  extremely  strong,  especially  at  new  and 
full  moon.  They  are  both  but  little  elevated  above  the 
sea :  the  highest  point  in  Gigha,  called  Creag-bhan,  or 
"  the  white  rock,"  rises  only  to  the  height  of  400  feet ; 
and  Cara,  situated  a  mile  and  a  half  south  of  the  former 
island,  has,  in  this  respect,  the  same  general  appearance. 
Gigha  measures  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  almost 
seven  miles,  and  is  two  and  a  half  miles  in  extreme 
breadth ;  Cara  is  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  aud  half  a 
mile  in  breadth,  and  the  two  isles  comprise  together 
about  4000  acres,  of  which  half  are  arable,  ten  under 
plantation,  and  the  remainder  pasture  and  waste.  The 
coast  of  Gigha  is  computed  at  twenty-five  miles  in 
extent,  being  very  circuitous  in  consequence  of  the  great 
number  of  its  creeks  ;  on  the  west  side  it  is  bold  and 
rocky,  and  contains,  near  the  middle,  a  cave  called  the 
Great  Cave,  and  another  named  the  Pigeons'  Cave,  from 
the  many  wild-pigeons  frequenting  it.  Though  rugged, 
however,  along  the  larger  part  of  the  western  line,  there 
are,  at  the  two  extremities,  and  on  the  eastern  side, 
several  bays  well  adapted  for  bathing,  and  containing 
a  fine  white  sand,  formerly  exported  in  large  quantities 
to  Dumbarton,  for  the  manufacture  of  glass.  In  about 
the  centre  of  the  eastern  coast  is  the  bay  of  Ardminish, 
ornamented  at  its  head  by  the  church  and  manse,  and 
resorted  to  by  vessels  taking  away  produce,  or  bringing 
to  the  island  coal,  lime,  and  other  commodities.  A  little 
north  of  this  is  the  bay  of  Drimyeon,  a  spacious  and 
secure  retreat ;  and  firm  anchorage  is  also  usually- 
found  in  all  the  other  bays  in  the  island,  especially  in 
that  of  Tarbert,  within  a  mile  of  its  north-eastern 
extremity. 

Between  Gigha  and  Cara  is  the  small  uninhabited 
islet  of  Gigulum  ;  and  between  this  and  Gigha  is  a  sound 
affording  good  anchorage  for  large  shipping,  and  much 
used  by  government  cutters,  and  by  vessels  trading 
with  the  northern  Highlands,  as  well  as  by  those  from 
England  and  Ireland,  which  visit  this  and  the  adjacent 
parish  of  Killean  for  the  purchase  of  seed-potatoes. 
The  principal  entrance  to  the  sound  is  from  the  east, 
rocks  lying  on  the  opposite  side.  The  most  prominent 
headland  in  the  parish,  called  Ardminish  point,  is  on 
the  north  side  of  the  bay  of  that  name.  At  the  south- 
west end  of  Gigha  is  Sloc-an-leim,  or  "  the  springing 
pit,"  a  subterraneous  passage  133  feet  long,  into  which 


GI  G  H 


GILC 


the  sea  rushes  with  considerable  fury.  The  shore  of 
the  island  of  Cara  is  rocky  and  steep,  except  towards 
the  north-east ;  and  at  its  southern  extremity  is  a  pre- 
cipitous rock,  117  feet  high,  called  the  Mull  of  Cara, 
thronged  by  sea-fowl,  and  the  resort,  too,  of  the  hawk. 
Around  this  coast  also,  as  well  as  that  of  the  other 
islands,  mackerel,  sea-perch,  lythe,  rock-cod,  and  many 
other  fish  are  found  •  and  cod,  ling,  and  large  haddocks 
may  be  obtained  on  the  banks,  two  or  three  miles  dis- 
tant. Some  rocky  portions  of  the  surface  of  Gigha  are 
covered  with  various  species  of  lichen,  of  which  those 
named  parmelia,  sticta-ramalina,  and  lecanora  are  much 
esteemed  as  valuable  dyes ;  and  the  juniper,  which  is 
abundant  and  prolific  upon  the  eastern  coast,  supplies 
in  the  summer  and  autumn  quantities  of  berries,  here 
used  in  order  to  flavour  whisky.  Many  tracts  are 
clothed  with  stunted  heath  ;  but  the  surface  is  in  dif- 
ferent places  pleasingly  diversified  with  knolls  and  hil- 
locks, profusely  ornamented  with  musk  roses.  On  the 
coast  is  found  the  ulva-latissima,  used  as  a  pickle,  as 
well  as  the  different  kinds  of  Carigean  moss. 

The  soil  is  a  rich  loam,  containing  in  some  parts  an 
admixture  of  sand,  clay,  and  moss ;  it  is  tolerably  fer- 
tile, and  produces  good  crops  of  bear,  oats,  potatoes, 
and  turnips.  The  land  is  particularly  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  the  last,  but,  in  consequence  of  the  demand 
for  seed-potatoes,  especially  for  Ireland,  more  attention 
is  paid  to  the  cultivation  of  these  than  the  turnips.  A 
small  part  of  the  arable  land  is  still  under  the  old  sys- 
tem of  husbandry,  the  larger  property  only  being  sub- 
ject to  the  rotation  of  crops ;  the  farms  are  to  some 
extent  inclosed  and  subdivided,  but  the  buildings  require 
further  improvement.  There  is  a  corn-mill,  to  which  a 
new  road  was  lately  formed  at  a  cost  of  £250  ;  the  mill 
itself  has  been  repaired,  and  among  other  improvements 
that  have  been  found  of  general  advantage  is  the  drain- 
ing of  the  Mill-dam  loch,  affording  an  opportunity  to 
the  people  to  obtain  from  it  turf  for  fuel.  A  few  sheep 
are  reared,  of  the  Cheviot  breed,  and  many  from  other 
places  are  wintered  here  ;  about  1000  hogs,  also,  are 
annually  brought,  at  the  close  of  autumn,  from  Jura 
and  other  contiguous  parts,  to  be  tended  at  the  rate  of 
2s.  6d.  each  for  five  months.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  Gigha  and  Cara  is  £2091.  The  strata  of 
the  parish  comprise  mica-slate,  felspar-slate,  quartz, 
and  hornblende,  with  chlorite-slate,  crossed  in  many 
places  at  right  angles  by  basaltic  dykes  ;  and  boulders 
of  hornblende  are  frequently  seen  both  on,  and  a  little 
below,  the  surface,  measuring  two  and  three  feet  in 
diameter.  Traces  of  copper  are  observable  in  Gigha, 
and  of  iron-ore  at  the  south  end  of  Cara.  The  planta- 
tions, which  are  but  few,  consist  of  oak,  ash,  larch, 
plane,  Scotch  fir,  and  pineaster,  the  last  being  less 
affected  by  the  sea  air  and  storms  than  any  of  the  other 
kinds. 

The  population  exhibit  more  of  the  maritime  than  of 
the  agricultural  character  ;  the  young  men  generally 
become  sailors,  and  a  large  proportion  of  the  rest  are 
engaged  in  fishing  for  cod  and  ling  for  several  months, 
beginning  about  Candlemas.  Upwards  of  twenty  boats, 
carrying  four  men  each,  are  engaged  in  this  pursuit ; 
they  proceed  to  the  banks  already  referred  to,  north- 
west and  south-west  of  the  parish,  and  usually  take  as 
many  fish  as  enable  them,  after  a  plentiful  supply  for 
their  own  families,  to  dispose  of  about  fifty  tons.  These, 
4?  2 


when  cured,  are  sold  at  Glasgow,  Greenock,  and  Camp- 
belltown,  at  from  £10  to  £14  per  ton.  Besides  the 
fishing-boats  and  twenty  of  smaller  size,  a  vessel  of 
thirty  tons  and  another  of  fourteen  are  employed  in 
carrying  agricultural  produce  to  market ;  they  convey 
annually,  on  the  average,  S00  tons  of  potatoes,  400 
quarters  of  bear,  and  150  quarters  of  oats,  besides  black- 
cattle,  horses,  sheep,  and  pigs,  and  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  dairy  produce.  Coal,  lime,  and  other  articles 
are  imported  ;  and  vessels  of  large  burthen  visit  the 
parish  from  Ireland,  England,  and  the  Clyde,  for  pota- 
toes, and  sometimes  for  cod  and  ling.  A  steam-boat, 
running  between  Loch  Tarbert  and  Islay,  passes  Gigha 
three  times  weekly  in  summer,  and  once  in  winter;  there 
is  also  a  ferry  from  each  of  the  properties  to  Tayinloan, 
a  hamlet  on  the  Mainland,  where  is  the  receiving-house 
for  letters.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
presbytery  of  Cantyre  and  synod  of  Argyll,  and  the 
patronage  belongs  to  the  Duke  of  Argyll;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £266,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£10  per  annum.  The  church  was  built  about  the  year 
17S0,  and  is  in  tolerable  repair.  The  parochial  school 
affords  instruction  in  English  and  Gaelic,  and  Latin  is 
also  taught,  with  all  the  usual  branches  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £25.  13.,  with  a  house,  and  about  £14  fees. 
At  the  distance  of  a  mile  from  the  present  church  may 
be  seen  the  walls  of  the  former  edifice,  with  a  stone 
font,  standing  in  the  midst  of  the  burial-ground.  About 
the  centre  of  Gigha  is  Dun-Cliijie,  formerly,  as  is  tradi- 
tionally reported,  a  strong  fortification  occupied  by 
Keefie,  the  King  of  Lochlin's  son,  who,  it  is  said,  was 
killed  here  by  Diarmid,  one  of  the  heroes  of  Fingal. 

GIGHA  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Barra,  county  of 
Inverness.  It  is  one  of  the  Hebrides,  and  lies  north- 
east of  Barra  island,  having  Ottervore  bay  on  the  west : 
the  isle  is  of  small  extent,  and  is  inhabited. 

GIGULUM  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Gigha  and  Cara, 
district  of  Cantyre,  county  of  Argyll.  This  is  a  small 
uninhabited  islet,  situated  between  the  islands  of  Gigha 
and  Cara ;  and  in  the  sound  between  Gigulum  and 
Gigha  is  good  anchorage  ground  for  large  vessels,  as  is 
more  particularly  noticed  in  the  article  on  ths  parish,    i 

GILCOMSTON,  a  district,  and  lately  an  ecclesiastical 
parish,  in  the  parish  of  Old  Machar,  city,  district,  and 
county  of  Aberdeen;  containing  5194  inhabitants. 
This  place,  which  forms  part  of  the  northern  suburbs 
of  the  city,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  gentle  acclivity, 
and  near  a  rivulet  which  in  its  course  turns  some  mills. 
The  streets  are  irregularly  formed,  apparently  without 
any  regard  to  uniformity  of  plan  ;  and  the  houses  "are 
generally  indifferently  built,  of  mean  appearance,  and 
chiefly  inhabited  by  labourers  employed  in  agriculture 
and  in  the  several  manufactories  in  the  neighbourhood. 
A  distillery  of  whisky  was  established  in  1750,  by  a 
joint  stock  company,  at  the  mill  of  Gilcomston ;  but, 
for  want  of  sufficient  encouragement,  it  was  in  a  few 
years  discontinued,  and  a  public  brewery  was  subse- 
quently established  on  the  premises.  To  the  west  of 
the  town  is  the  celebrated  chalybeate  called  the  Well 
of  Spaw;  and  the  environs  abound  with  picturesque 
scenery.  The  district  was  separated  from  the  parish  of 
Old  Machar  by  act  of  the  General  Assembly,  in  1834, 
and  was,  for  a  short  time,  for  ecclesiastical  purposes,  a 
parish  of  itself;  it  comprised  about  600  acres  of  tole- 
rably fertile  land,  in   good  cultivation.      The  church, 


G  I  L  M 


GIRT 


originally  a  chapel  of  ease,  was  erected  in  1771,  and 
enlarged  by  galleries  in  1796;  it  is  a  neat  structure, 
conveniently  situated,  and  contains  1522  sittings.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £230,  derived  solely  from  the  seat- 
rents.  There  are  also  an  episcopal  chapel,  erected  by 
subscription  in  1812,  and  containing  386  sittings,  and 
places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church  and 
of  the  Original  Secession.  Several  Sabbath  schools 
collectively  contain  nearly  300  children  ;  and  connected 
with  them  is  a  library  of  400  volumes. 

GILLS,  a  township,  in  the  parish  of  Canisbay, 
county  of  Caithness,  15  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Wick  ; 
containing  164  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  shore 
of  the  Pentland  Frith,  nearly  opposite  the  island  of 
Stroma,  and  at  the  head  of  Gills  bay,  into  which  a 
small  stream  runs,  after  passing  through  the  village. 
The  bay  is  tolerably  safe  for  vessels  in  moderate 
weather,  and  in  this  respect  is  preferable  to  Duncansbay 
and  Freswick  bay,  both  in  the  parish ;  but  it  cannot 
be  regarded  as  an  eligible  place  of  anchorage  at  other 
times. 

GILMERTON,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Liberton,  county  of  Edinburgh  ;  con- 
taining 942  inhabitants,  of  whom  548  are  in  the  village 
of  Gilraerton,  4  miles  (S.  E.  by  S.)  from  Edinburgh. 
This  district  comprises  about  1 100  acres,  the  whole  in 
tillage  or  pasture,  with  the  exception  of  some  small 
plantations  around  the  seats  of  the  principal  heritors. 
It  contains  several  coal-mines,  of  which  those  of  Gil- 
merton,  Drum,  and  Somerside  are  the  principal :  the 
Gilmerton  mine  ceased  to  be  wrought  in  1838,  but  is 
now  again  brought  into  operation.  Iron-ore  is  known 
to  exist  in  considerable  quantity,  some  of  it  of  the  best 
black-band  kind ;  and  the  lime-works  here  are,  per- 
haps, among  the  oldest  in  the  kingdom.  Drum  House, 
a  fine  mansion,  was  erected  in  1698  by  Lord  James 
Somerville,  but  has  since  passed  through  the  hands  of 
various  families  ;  Gilmerton  House,  the  property  of  Sir 
David  Baird,  Bart.,  is  also  an  ancient  structure  ;  and 
an  elegant  residence  in  the  Elizabethan  style  has  lately 
been  built  at  Fernieside.  The  village  is  situated  on  the 
road  from  Edinburgh  to  Carlisle,  and  colliers  and 
carters  form  a  large  part  of  its  population  :  in  the  dis- 
trict are  the  two  smaller  villages  of  Edgehead  and  Tod- 
hills.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  presbytery 
of  Edinburgh  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tvveeddale  ; 
and  the  patronage  is  vested  in  the  male  communicants. 
The  church,  opened  for  divine  service  in  April,  1S37,  is 
a  neat  structure,  seated  for  300  persons,  and  built  at 
a  cost  of  about  £600,  raised  by  subscription  aided  by 
a  grant  from  the  General  Assembly.  The  members  of 
the  Free  Church  also  have  a  place  of  worship.  There 
is  a  school,  of  which  the  teacher  has  a  salary  contributed 
by  Sir  David  Baird  and  others,  and  a  house  and  garden  ; 
and  a  small  library  was  founded  by  the  late  Rev.  James 
Grant,  minister  of  Liberton.  Gilmerton  Cave,  or,  as  it  is 
usually  termed,  "  the  Cove,"  is  a  curious  and  extensive 
subterraneous  passage,  consisting  of  several  apartments, 
dug  out  of  the  solid  rock,  with  forms  and  tables,  simi- 
larly wrought,  for  the  convenience  of  visiters.  It  was 
the  work  of  five  years'  hard  labour  of  an  eccentric  in- 
dividual, a  blacksmith,  named  Paterson,  by  whom  it 
was  completed  in  1/24  ;  and  it  has  since  continued  to 
attract  the  attention  of  all  strangers.  In  the  cave  is 
also  a  well. 

Vol.  I.— 473 


GILMERTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Fowlis 
Wester,  county  of  Perth  ;  containing  203  inhabitants. 
This  is  a  modern  village  of  neat  appearance,  well  built, 
and  pleasantly  situated  on  the  high  road  from  Perth  to 
Crieff. 

GILSTON,  NEW,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Largo, 
district  of  St,  Andrew's,  county  of  Fife,  4  miles 
(N.  by  E.)  from  Largo  ;  containing  229  inhabitants.  It 
lies  in  the  northern  part  of  the  parish,  and  near  its 
eastern  boundary.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  village  is  a 
singular  mass  of  rum-coal,  said  to  be  eighty  feet  in 
thickness,  and  wrought  in  open  quarry.  In  this  quar- 
ter of  the  parish,  also,  are  considerable  plantations, 
consisting  of  oak,  ash,  beech,  elm,  and  other  trees,  and 
greatly  enriching  the  scenery. 

GIRTHON,  a  parish,  in  the  stewartry  of  Kirkcud- 
bright, 6  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Kirkcudbright ;  containing, 
with  the  larger  part  of  the  burgh  of  Gatehouse  of  Fleet, 
1S74  inhabitants.  This  place,  which  is  of  great  anti- 
quity, is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name,  signifying, 
in  the  Celtic  language,  an  inclosure  or  sanctuary,  from 
some  religious  establishment  having  that  privilege,  and 
which  existed  at  a  very  early  period,  at  the  passage  of 
the  river  Fleet.  In  1300,  Edward  I.  of  England,  during 
the  contested  succession  to  the  Scottish  throne,  resided 
for  several  days  at  the  old  town  of  Fleet,  now  Gate- 
house, and  presented  an  oblation  at  the  altar  of  Girthon  : 
after  levying  some  fines  from  the  town,  for  the  mis- 
conduct of  the  inhabitants,  who  had  attempted  to  oppose 
his  progress,  he  retired  without  further  molestation. 
The  lands  anciently  belonged  to  a  branch  of  the  family 
of  the  Stewarts,  from  whom  they  passed  by  marriage  to 
Donald  de  Levenax,  or  Lennox,  son  of  the  Earl  of 
Lennox  ;  and  on  the  death  of  the  seventh  lord  of  Gir- 
thon, the  estate,  together  with  the  family  seat  of  Cally, 
was  conveyed  by  his  daughter,  in  marriage,  to  Richard 
Murray,  of  Broughton,  whose  descendant,  Alexander 
Murray,  Esq.,  M.P.,  is  the  present  proprietor. 

The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  south  and  west 
by  the  bay  and  river  of  Fleet,  is  about  sixteen  miles  in 
length,  and  from  two  to  five  in  breadth,  comprising 
15,4S0  acres,  of  which  4000  are  arable,  1000  woodland 
and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  heath  and  waste, 
affording  tolerable  pasture  for  sheep  and  cattle.  The 
surface  towards  the  north  and  east  is  mountainous  and 
bleak  ;  towards  the  south,  with  the  exception  of  some 
gentle  undulations,  pretty  level.  In  the  mountainous 
district  are  several  lakes,  of  which  the  principal  are, 
Loch  Greanoch,  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  half  a 
mile  in  breadth  ;  Loch  Skerroch,  nearly  half  a  mile 
square ;  Loch  Fleet  ;  and  Loch  Whinnyan,  on  the 
eastern  border  of  the  parish.  From  Loch  Fleet  flows 
the  little  water  of  Fleet ;  and  this,  after  a  few  miles,  is 
joined  by  the  great  water  of  the  same  name,  together 
making  the  river  Fleet,  which,  after  a  winding  course, 
dividing  the  parish  from  that  of  Anwoth,  runs  into 
Fleet  bay.  In  Loch  Greanoch  are  found  char  in  great 
abundance,  and  pike  in  Loch  Skerroch  ;  a  few  salmon  are 
taken  in  the  river  Fleet,  and  flounders  in  great  plenty  ; 
and  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  are  two  small  islands, 
where  excellent  oysters  are  obtained.  These  isles  are 
uninhabited,  affording  only  pasturage  for  sheep.  The 
soil  is  various  :  the  arable  lands,  which  are  under  good 
cultivation,  produce  favourable  crops,  and  the  meadows 
are  luxuriant.     The  farm-houses,  most  of  which  have 

3P 


G  I  R  V 


G  I  R  V 


been  rebuilt,  are  substantial  and  commodious  ;  and  all 
the  more  recent  improvements  in  husbandry  have  been 
adopted.  The  cattle,  of  which  about  1200  are  annually 
reared,  are  of  the  Galloway  breed;  and  the  sheep, 
of  which  8000  are  fed  in  the  mountain  pastures,  are 
of  the  small  native  kind.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £5698. 

There  are  considerable  remains  of  ancient  woods  at 
Castramont  and  a  few  other  places  ;  and  the  planta- 
tions of  more  recent  date  are  in  a  thriving  condition. 
The  substrata  are  chiefly  clay-slate  and  granite,  of  which 
latter  the  rocks  are  principally  composed.  A  slate- 
quarry  was  some  years  since  in  operation,  but  has  been 
superseded  by  the  importation  of  slate  from  England 
and  Wales,  at  a  cheaper  rate  ;  and  a  vein  of  copper-ore, 
which  was  formerly  wrought  by  a  company  from  Wales, 
has  been  also  discontinued.  The  principal  mansion  is 
Cally,  the  seat  of  Mr.  Murray,  a  spacious  and  elegant 
structure  of  granite,  erected  in  1/63,  and  since  much 
improved;  it  contains  a  noble  hall  of  marble,  in  which 
are  some  handsome  pieces  of  sculpture,  and  has  many 
stately  apartments,  with  valuable  paintings.  The  plea- 
sure-grounds and  gardens  are  extensive  and  tastefully 
embellished,  and  in  the  park  are  numerous  herds  of 
deer,  and  some  fine  specimens  of  the  ancient  Caledonian 
breed  of  cattle.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcudbright 
and  synod  of  Galloway.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£158.  6.  8.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20 
per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  church,  situated 
at  Gatehouse,  is  a  neat  substantial  structure,  erected  in 
1818,  and  contains  714  sittings.  The  members  of  the 
Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship.  The  parochial 
school  is  attended  upon  the  average  by  ninety  chil- 
dren :  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £45,  increased  to 
that  amount  by  Mr.  Murray,  with  a  house  and  garden  ; 
and  the  fees  average  about  £40  per  annum.  A  charity 
school  is  supported  by  Lady  Anne  Murray,  in  which 
the  children  are  gratuitously  clothed  and  instructed. 
The  site  of  the  palace  of  the  bishops  of  Galloway  is  still 
pointed  out  here,  though  there  are  no  vestiges  of  the 
building ;  and  in  the  pleasure-grounds  of  Cally  are 
the  remains  of  the  ancient  family  seat.  There  are 
several  small  moats,  called  "  Doons,"  and  also  an  an- 
cient camp,  forming  one  of  a  line  which  traverses  the 
stewartry. 

GIRVAN,  a  busy  sea-port, 
i^^^W^^W^\%.  market-town,  and  parish,  in 
^RjRG^^w?/-  *ne  district  of  Carrick, 
ItQjS)  countv  of  Ayr,  29  miles  (N. 
N.  E.)  from  Stranraer,  and 
97  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from  Edin- 
burgh ;  containing  8000  in- 
habitants. Girvan  is  sup- 
posed to  have  derived  its 
'  name  from  the  river  on  which 
it  is  situated,  and  which, 
on  account  of  the  rapidity  of 
its  course,  was  called  the 
Griffan,  from  two  Celtic  words  descriptive  of  its  cha- 
racter. Few  circumstances  of  historical  importance  are 
connected  with  the  place,  and  its  origin  and  early  history 
are  not  distinctly  recorded.  The  town  is  beautifully 
seated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  here  discharges 
its  waters  into  a  spacious  bay  ;  and  commands  an  exten- 
474 


Burgh  Seal. 


sive  and  interesting  view  of  the  sea,  the  rock  of  Ailsa, 
the  mull  and  promontory  of  Cantyre,  the  islands  of 
Sanda,  Arran,  and  Little  Cumbray,  part  of  the  Isle  of 
Bute,  and  the  coast  of  Ireland  in  the  distance.  It  ap- 
pears to  have  risen  into  note  from  the  grant  of  a  charter 
to  Thomas  Boyd,  of  Ballochtoul,  which  was  recited  and 
confirmed  to  Sir  Archibald  Muir,  of  Thornton,  provost 
of  Edinburgh,  in  1696,  by  William  III.,  who  bestowed 
on  it  all  the  privileges  of  a  burgh  of  barony  ;  and  from 
the  advantage  of  its  situation  on  the  coast,  and  in  a 
large  manufacturing  district,  it  gradually  increased  in 
population  and  extent,  and  ultimately  became  the  seat 
of  trade  and  manufacturing  industry.  The  number  of 
inhabitants  has  been  greatly  augmented  since  the  intro- 
duction of  cotton-weaving  by  the  settlement  of  nume- 
rous weavers  from  Ireland,  for  whom  many  small  houses 
have  been  built  in  the  town  and  suburbs.  A  public 
library  is  maintained  by  subscription,  and  two  circulat- 
ing libraries  have  been  recently  established,  which  are 
well  supported  ;  there  is  also  a  library  belonging  to  the 
agricultural  society  of  the  district.  Not  less  than  2000 
looms  are  employed  in  weaving  cotton  for  the  Glasgow 
and  Paisley  manufacturers,  who  have  agents  settled 
here  for  conducting  that  business  ;  and  many  of  the  in- 
habitants are  engaged  in  the  several  trades  connected 
with  the  port,  and  requisite  for  the  supply  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood with  various  articles  of  merchandise. 

The  Girvan  is  frequented  by  salmon,  and  a  considera- 
ble fishery  was  formerly  carried  on,  under  the  protection 
of  the  charter,  by  the  proprietors  on  both  sides  of  the 
river  ;  but  it  has  been  greatly  diminished  by  laying  down 
stake-nets.  The  bay  abounds  with  white-fish  of  every 
kind,  the  chief  of  which  are  cod,  haddock,  whiting, 
mackerel,  soles,  flounders,  turbot,  and  lobsters ;  but, 
notwithstanding,  very  little  attention  was  paid  to  this 
valuable  fishery  till  of  late,  when  some  steps  were  taken 
to  render  it  more  available  to  the  trade  of  the  place. 
A  considerable  business  is  also  carried  on  in  the  shipping 
of  grain,  of  which  about  1200  bolls  of  wheat  are  sent 
off  quarterly,  on  the  average  •,  and  the  trade  of  the  town 
would  be  much  extended  by  the  construction  of  a  rail- 
road from  the  collieries  in  the  district.  The  harbour, 
till  recently,  was  in  a  totally  unimproved  condition,  ad- 
mitting only  vessels  of  very  small  burthen  ;  but  a  quay, 
though  at  present  only  on  a  small  scale,  has  been  con- 
structed, which  has  much  facilitated  the  exportation  of 
potatoes  and  coal  ;  and  when  further  improvements 
have  been  made,  the  harbour  will  be  one  of  the  most 
commodious  on  this  part  of  the  coast.  There  are  at 
present  upwards  of  twenty  vessels  belonging  to  Girvan, 
of  from  100  to  300  tons'  burthen ;  and  ship-build- 
ing is  carried  on  with  spirit.  Branch  banks  have 
been  established,  and  also  a  post-office :  the  market, 
which  is  amply  supplied  with  provisions  of  all  kinds, 
is  regularly  held,  once  a  week  ;  and  fairs,  to  which 
black-cattle  are  brought  for  sale,  are  held  on  the 
last  Mondays  in  April  and  October,  chiefly  for  the  hir- 
ing of  servants.  Facility  of  intercourse  with  all  places 
of  importance  in  the  district  is  afforded  by  excellent 
roads,  of  which  that  from  Glasgow  to  Portpatrick  passes 
along  the  west  side  of  the  parish  for  nearly  nine  miles; 
and  there  are  good  inland  roads  traversing  the  parish  in 
all  directions.  The  burgh,  under  its  charter,  is  governed 
by  two  bailies  and  a  council  of  twelve  burgesses,  assisted 
by  a  town-clerk,   treasurer,  and  other  officers  ;  four  of 


GIRV 


GLAD 


the  council  retire  annually,  but  are  capable  of  re-election 
by  the  majority  of  the  burgesses  ;  and  the  bailies  are  an- 
nually elected  by  the  council.  The  other  officers  of  the 
corporation  are  appointed  by  the  magistrates ;  the 
senior  bailie  is,  by  virtue  of  his  office,  a  member  of  the 
council,  and  the  junior  bailie  takes  the  office  of  senior 
magistrate  for  the  ensuing  year.  The  jurisdiction  ex- 
tends over  the  whole  of  the  burgh  and  the  barony  of 
Ballochtoul ;  and  a  bailie's  court  is  held  weekly,  on 
Wednesday,  in  the  towu-hall,  for  the  determination  of 
civil  pleas  to  the  amount  of  £2,  and  for  the  trial  of  petty 
offences,  which  are  generally  punished  by  the  imposition 
of  fines  not  exceeding  £1,  and  with  imprisonment  for 
non-payment.  The  average  number  of  civil  cases  ap- 
pears for  some  years  to  have  been  gradually  diminishing, 
and  at  present  is  under  fifty.  All  persons  wishing  to 
carry  on  trade  must  enter  as  freemen,  for  which  a  fee  of 
£2  on  admission  is  paid  to  the  common  fund.  The 
police  is  under  the  management  of  the  magistrates  ;  and 
sixty  of  the  inhabitants  are  annually  appointed  constables 
for  the  preservation  of  the  peace.  The  town-hall  is  a 
neat  building;  and  attached  to  it  is  a  prison  for  petty 
offenders  in  default  of  payment  of  their  fines,  and  for 
the  temporary  confinement  of  others  previously  to  their 
being  sent  to  the  gaol  of  Ayr. 

The  parish,  situated  on  the  coast,  is  nine  miles  in 
length,  and  extends  about  four  miles  in  mean  breadth, 
though  of  very  irregular  form,  varying  from  two  to  seven 
miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  west  for  nearly  the  whole 
of  its  length,  by  the  sea,  and  comprises  about  19,000 
acres,  of  which,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  portion  of 
woodland  and  plantation,  the  greater  part  is  arable  land 
and  moorland  pasture,  and  the  remainder  waste.  The 
surface,  which  in  no  part  is  very  level,  is  diagonally  in- 
tersected by  a  boldly  elevated  ridge,  of  which  the  highest 
point  is  1200,  and  the  mean  height  900,  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  lands  are  watered  by  three  rivers, 
of  which  the  Girvan  is  the  principal  ;  the  Lendal,  a 
comparatively  small  stream,  falls  into  the  sea  at  Carleton 
bay,  and  the  Assel,  after  flowing  through  the  parish,  falls 
into  the  Stiuchar  in  the  parish  of  Colmonell.  There  are 
also  two  lakes  ;  but,  though  of  great  depth,  they  only 
cover  a  very  inconsiderable  portion  of  ground.  The 
soil  is  generally  fertile,  and  in  the  lower  lands  well 
adapted  for  the  growth  of  wheat  ;  in  the  higher  parts 
the  lands  are  coarse,  and  comparatively  unproductive. 
The  crops  are,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  and  bear,  potatoes, 
beans,  peas,  and  many  acres  of  turnips  for  the  sheep  ; 
the  system  of  husbandry  is  improved,  and  draining  has 
been  practised  on  the  lands  requiring  it,  recently  to  a 
great  extent.  Sea-weed,  found  in  abundance  on  the 
shore,  is  very  generally  used  as  manure,  though  not  alto- 
gether to  the  exclusion  of  lime  :  the  farm  houses  and 
offices  in  the  parish  have  been  almost  all  rebuilt  within 
the  last  fifty  years,  and  are  in  general  substantial  and 
commodious  ;  and  some,  of  more  recent  erection,  are 
inferior  to  none  in  this  part  of  the  country.  Great 
attention  is  paid  to  live  stock,  though,  from  a  greater 
quantity  of  land  having  been  improved  and  rendered 
arable,  the  number  of  cattle  pastured  has  proportionally 
diminished.  The  dairy-farms  are  well  managed ;  the 
cows  are  of  the  Ayrshire  breed,  and  about  500  are  kept 
on  the  several  farms,  and  300  head  of  young  cattle  pas- 
tured every  year.  The  sheep  are  chiefly  of  the  larger 
black-faced  breed,  with  a  few  of  the  Cheviot ;  2200  are 
475 


annually  reared,  and  about  400  bought  in  and  fed  on 
turnips  for  the  markets.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £12,845. 

There  is  very  little  natural  wood,  and  the  plantations 
are  on  a  limited  scale.  The  substrata  are  mostly  lime- 
stone, red  freestone,  whinstone  of  a  bluish  colour,  and 
graystone  in  detached  masses  ;  the  limestone  has  been 
extensively  quarried  for  the  supply  of  the  neighbouring 
district.  Copper  has  been  found  on  some  of  the  lands  ; 
and  it  is  thought  that  there  are  abundant  veins  of  ore  at 
Ardmillan.  Indeed,  attempts  have  been  made  to  ascer- 
tain the  fact,  but  upon  too  inefficient  a  scale  to  warrant 
any  just  conclusion  :  what  ore  was  obtained  was  found 
to  be  of  rich  quality,  and  in  searching  for  it  several 
beautiful  specimens  of  asbestos  were  discovered.  Along 
the  coast,  the  rocks  are  chiefly  of  the  conglomerate 
kind  ;  and  huge  masses  are  seen,  piled  upon  each  other, 
and  in  some  instances  so  nicely  poised  on  the  slender 
props  which  sustain  their  prodigious  weight  as  to  fill 
the  beholder  with  fearful  apprehensions.  The  parish  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ; 
patron,  the  Crown,  'ihe  minister's  stipend  is  £269.  12., 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £12  per  annum. 
The  church,  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  close 
to  the  Glasgow  and  Portpatrick  road,  was  erected  about 
the  year  1*80,  when  the  population  was  scarcely  a 
fourth  of  the  present  number  ;  it  is  adapted  for  a  con- 
gregation of  850  persons,  but  is  altogether  inadequate 
to  the  wants  of  the  parishioners.  There  are  places  of 
worship  for  Burghers,  Wesleyan  Methodists,  the  Free 
Church,  and  Seceders  from  the  Free  Church.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  well  conducted  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £34,  with  £50  fees,  and  an  allowance  of  £20  in  lieu 
of  a  house  and  garden.  He  also  receives  the  interest  of 
£1000  bequeathed  by  Mrs.  Crauford,  of  Ardmillan,  for 
the  education  of  forty  children  without  fees,  of  whom 
ten  are  taught  church  music  by  the  precentor  of  the 
church,  to  whom  she  left  £12  per  annum  for  that  pur- 
pose. Another  school  is  supported  by  subscription,  for 
teaching  children  to  read  the  scriptures,  and  for  instruct- 
ing them  in  their  catechism.  A  savings'  bank  has  been 
established,  and  some  benevolent  societies  have  con- 
tributed to  diminish  the  number  of  applications  for 
parochial  aid.  Vestiges  remain  of  numerous  small  cir- 
cular camps  ;  and  there  were  formerly  many  cairns,  but 
most  have  been  destroyed  to  furnish  materials  for 
fences  :  on  removing  one  of  these,  a  stone  coffin  of  thin 
slabs  was  found,  and  an  urn  of  earthenware,  rudely 
ornamented,  containing  ashes. 

GLACK,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Methven,  county 
of  Perth  ;   containing  36  inhabitants. 

GLADSMUIR,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Hadding- 
ton, 3§  miles  (E.  by  N.)  from  Tranent;  containing, 
with  the  villages  of  Samuelston,  Long  Niddry,  and  Pen- 
ston,  1699  inhabitants.  This  place,  which  was  anciently 
a  wide  uncultivated  moor,  is  supposed  to  have  derived 
its  name  from  its  being  the  resort  of  vast  numbers  of 
kites.  It  formed  part  of  the  possessions  of  Alexander 
Baliol,  whose  brother,  John,  father  of  John  Baliol, 
King  of  Scotland,  founded  the  college  at  Oxford  called 
after  his  name,  and  whose  son,  William,  obtained,  by 
marriage  with  the  daughter  of  William  Wallace,  the 
lands  of  Lamington,  in  the  county  of  Lanark,  and, 
altering  his  name  to  Baillie,  founded  the  family  of  the 
Baillies   of  Lamington,  whose  lineal  descendant  is  the 

3  P2 


GLAD 


GLAD 


present  proprietor.  The  parish  is  five  miles  in  length, 
extending  from  the  Frith  of  Forth,  on  the  north,  to  the 
river  Tyne,  on  the  south  ;  it  is  four  miles  in  breadth, 
and  comprises  6/31  acres,  of  which  6386  are  arable  and 
in  good  cultivation,  302  woodland  and  plantations, 
thirty-four  are  homesteads,  and  seven  and  a  half,  roads. 
The  surface  rises  gradually  from  the  northern  and 
southern  extremities,  forming  an  elevated  ridge  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  on  the  highest  point  of 
which  the  church  is  situated,  and  along  which  passes 
the  great  London  road.  The  shore  of  the  Frith,  which 
bounds  the  parish  for  about  a  mile,  is  rugged,  and  inter- 
spersed with  large  masses  of  detached  rocks.  The 
Tyne,  which  forms  a  boundary  for  something  more 
than  a  mile  and  a  half,  is  but  an  inconsiderable  stream, 
scarcely  sufficient  for  turning  some  mills  in  its  course. 
In  the  lower  lands  are  several  copious  springs,  affording 
an  abundant  supply  of  water.  The  scenery  is  generally 
pleasing,  and  in  some  parts  finely  embellished  with 
rich  and  flourishing  plantations  ;  and  from  the  higher 
grounds  are  obtained  extensive  and  interesting  views  of 
the  surrounding  country. 

The  soil  is  various ;  in  some  parts  a  rich  loam,  in 
others  loam  intermixed  with  clay,  in  some  light  and 
sandy,  and  in  others  a  deep  moss  :  the  crops  are,  bar- 
ley, oats,  wheat,  beans,  peas,  potatoes,  and  turnips.  The 
system  of  agriculture  is  in  a  very  advanced  condition  ; 
the  lands  have  been  greatly  improved  by  draining,  and 
by  the  introduction  of  bone-dust  and  guano  as  manures  ; 
much  waste  has  been  reclaimed,  and  many  tracts  of 
sterile  marsh  brought  into  a  highly-cultivated  state. 
The  farm-houses  are  substantial  and  well  built,  and  on 
most  of  the  farms  are  threshing-mills,  driven  by  steam  ; 
the  lands  are  inclosed  with  hedges  of  thorn,  and  ditches, 
which  are  kept  in  good  order.  Great  attention  is  paid 
to  the  rearing  of  live  stock  :  the  sheep,  of  which  about 
3000  are  annually  pastured,  are  chiefly  of  the  Cheviot 
breed,  with  a  cross  between  that  and  the  Leicester- 
shire ;  the  cattle,  of  which  500  are  annually  fattened  for 
the  markets,  and  the  milch-cows,  are  partly  of  the  Ayr- 
shire breed.  About  220  horses,  also,  are  reared,  chiefly  for 
agricultural  purposes.  The  woods  consist  of  oak,  beech, 
lime,  birch,  elm,  chesnut,  and  hazel;  and  the  planta- 
tions of  Scotch  fir,  spruce,  and  larch.  The  lands  are 
rich  in  mineral  wealth,  and  the  inhabitants,  in  addition 
to  their  agricultural  pursuits,  are  extensively  employed 
in  mining.  The  substrata  are  principally  coal,  lime- 
stone, and  ironstone.  The  coal  is  found  mostly  in  the 
district  of  Penston,  where  it  has  been  worked  for  some 
centuries  ;  the  old  mines  being  almost  exhausted,  new 
ones  have  been  opened  in  the  same  field,  and  every 
where  coal  is  found  in  abundance.  The  seams  vary  in 
thickness  from  thirty-two  inches  to  three  feet ;  steam- 
engines  have  been  erected  in  the  new  pits,  to  drain  off 
the  water,  and  the  workings  are  successfully  carried  on. 
In  1835,  a  blacksmith  residing  at  the  village  of  Mc 
Merry,  on  the  property  of  St.  Germains,  in  sinking  a 
well  behind  his  house,  discovered  a  vein  of  parrot  coal, 
which  was  profitably  wrought  for  some  time,  but  has 
lately  failed.  Between  Gladsmuir  and  the  village 
of  Samuelston,  the  magistrates  of  Haddington  at- 
tempted to  form  a  colliery  on  their  own  land  ;  but 
after  an  outlay  of  more  than  £2000,  they  abandoned 
the  proceedings.  Limestone  is  worked  in  several  parts, 
and  near  Long  Niddry  is  a  kiln  for  burning  it  into  lime  ; 
476 


there  are  also  kilns  in  other  places,  but  the  works  are 
not  carried  on  to  any  great  extent.  Iron-ore  is  fre- 
quently found  ;  it  was  wrought  for  some  time  on  the 
lands  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Wemyss  ;  and  from  the 
increase  in  the  demand  for  iron,  the  works  will  most 
probably  be  resumed.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
Gladsmuir  is  £11,103.  Elvingston  House,  a  seat  in 
the  parish,  is  a  handsome  mansion,  completed  in  1840, 
and  pleasantly  situated  in  a  tastefully  laid-out  demesne, 
approached  by  an  avenue  of  trees  about  300  yards  in 
length.  Southfield,  the  property  of  the  earl,  is  also  a 
handsome  house,  surrounded  with  plantations,  and  now 
in  the  occupation  of  a  tenant ;  and  at  Greendykes  are 
some  farm-buildings  of  very  superior  character.  The 
nearest  market-town  is  Haddington,  which  is  the  prin- 
cipal mart  for  the  agricultural  produce,  and  with  which, 
and  the  neighbouring  towns,  facilities  of  communication 
are  afforded  by  excellent  roads  :  the  London  road  passes 
for  nearly  three  miles  through  the  parish,  and  the 
numerous  cross-roads  are  kept  in  good  repair  by  sta- 
tute labour. 

The  parish  consists  of  the  lands  of  Samuelston,  Pen- 
ston, Elvingston,  and  others,  which,  in  the  year  1650, 
were  severed  from  the  parishes  of  Haddington  and 
Aberlady,  and  a  church  erected  at  Thrieplaw,  which 
continued  to  be  the  parochial  church  till  1695,  when  an- 
other edifice  was  built,  and  the  original  one  was  suffered 
to  fall  into  decay.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
under  the  presbytery  of  Haddington  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  alternate  patrons,  the  Crown 
and  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£316.  17-,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £8  per 
annum.  The  church,  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  parish,  is  a  handsome  structure,  and  adapted  for 
a  congregation  of  about  750  persons.  The  eminence  on 
which  it  is  built  commands  a  magnificent  prospect  em- 
bracing the  Frith  of  Forth,  with  the  county  of  Fife,  the 
North  Berwick  and  the  Traprain  hills,  the  vale  of  Tyne 
and  the  Lammermoor  hills,  the  distant  heights  of  Dum- 
barton and  the  county  of  Perth,  and  a  vast  variety  of 
other  interesting  objects.  The  parochial  school  affords 
education  to  nearly  100  children;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  with  £32  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden. 
There  are  also  schools  at  Samuelston  and  Long  Niddry, 
the  masters  of  which  have  a  house  and  garden  rent-free, 
and  the  former  a  salary  of  £15,  paid  by  Lord  Hadding- 
ton, and  the  latter  one  of  £9,  in  addition  to  the  custo- 
mary fees. 

In  various  parts  are  the  foundations  of  old  houses, 
leading  to  an  opinion  that  the  parish  was  once  more 
populous ;  and  there  are  also  remains  of  several  ancient 
mansions.  Of  these  are,  the  mansion  of  Long  Niddry, 
the  seat  of  a  branch  of  the  Douglas  family  ;  the  houses 
of  East  and  West  Adniston,  of  which  scarcely  any  ves- 
tiges are  remaining ;  and  the  old  mansion-house  of 
Penston,  once  of  great  strength,  with  arched  roofs,  but 
which  has  been  long  a  ruin,  and  its  remains  converted 
into  farm-buildings.  Some  stone  coffins  have  been  dis- 
covered at  Seaton  hill,  containing  many  human  bones  ; 
they  were  generally  of  red  flagstone,  about  five  feet  long 
and  two  feet  wide,  and  near  them  was  found  an  urn 
filled  with  burnt  bones.  On  the  lands  of  Southfield, 
some  labourers,  while  making  drains,  dug  up  a  consi- 
derable number  of  small  British  coins  of  silver ;  and 
several  similar  coins  have  been  found  at  Greendykes. 


GLAM 


GLAM 


John  Knox,  when  compelled  to  leave  St.  Andrew's,  took 
refuge  at  Long  Niddry,  where  he  acted  as  tutor  to  the 
sons  of  Mr.  Douglas  ;  and  during  his  stay  there,  he 
preached  the  reformed  doctrines  in  a  chapel  near  the 
mansion-house,  which  still,  though  in  ruins,  retains  the 
name  of  "  Knox's  Kirk."  There  are  slight  vestiges  of 
the  ancient  parochial  church  which  was  situated  at 
Thrieplaw  :  on  the  establishment  of  the  coal-works  at 
that  place,  the  remaining  walls  were  incorporated  into 
the  dwellings  of  the  miners.  Near  the  village  of  Pen- 
ston,  also,  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  windmill,  which,  in 
the  earlier  working  of  the  collieries  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, was  erected  for  the  purpose  of  drawing  off  the 
water  from  the  pits,  which  is  now  much  more  effectually 
done  by  steam-engines.  Dr.  Robertson,  principal  of  the 
university  of  Edinburgh,  was  incumbent  of  this  parish, 
where  he  succeeded  his  uncle,  Andrew  Robertson,  in 
17-14;  and  during  his  residence  here,  he  composed  the 
greater  portion  of  his  History  of  Scotland. 

GLAIDNEY,  or  Glaidney-Cotton,  a  village,  in  the 
parish  and  district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife  ;  containing 
195  inhabitants.  This  village,  which  is  situated  near  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  parish,  and  is  connected  with 
the  northern  portion  of  it  by  a  handsome  bridge  over 
the  river  Eden,  is  neatly  built,  and  chiefly  inhabited  by 
persons  employed  in  the  various  manufactures  of  the 
town  and  parish. 

GLAMMIS,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar  ; 
containing,  with  the  villages  of  Arnyfoul,  Charleston, 
Drumglay,  Grasshouses  of  Thornton,  Milton,  Newton, 
and  Thornton,  216"  inhabitants,  of  whom  556  are  in 
the  village  of  Glammis,  52  miles  (N.)  from  Edinburgh. 
This  place,  of  which  the  name  is  of  uncertain  derivation, 
is  identified  with  the  murder  of  Malcolm  II.,  which, 
according  to  some  writers,  is  said  to  have  occurred  in 
the  castle  of  Glammis,  at  that  time  a  royal  residence, 
and,  according  to  others,  to  have  happened  in  a  skir- 
mish with  his  assailants  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  in 
which  he  was  mortally  wounded.  The  castle,  and  the 
lands  belonging  to  it,  were  granted  by  Robert  II.  to  Sir 
John  Lyon,  ancestor  of  the  Strathmore  family,  upon 
whom,  also,  he  conferred  his  second  daughter  in  marriage, 
and  the  barony  of  Kinghorn.  On  the  conviction  of  Lady 
Glammis,  who  was  executed  in  1537,  for  an  alleged  con- 
spiracy against  the  life  of  James  V.,  the  castle  was  for- 
feited to  the  crown,  and  again  became  a  royal  residence  ; 
but  on  a  subsequent  discovery  of  her  innocence,  the 
honours  and  the  estate  were  restored  to  her  son,  Lord 
Glammis,  whose  descendant,  the  Earl  of  Strathmore,  is 
the  present  proprietor.  The  parish,  which  forms  part 
of  the  southern  portion  of  the  vale  of  Strathmore,  is 
situated  near  the  base  of  the  Grampian  hills,  and  is 
about  ten  miles  in  length,  varying  from  one  mile  to  five 
miles  in  breadth,  and  comprising  an  area  of  15,000 
acres,  of  which  8000  are  arable,  4500  meadow  and  pas- 
ture, 1600  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder 
roads  and  waste.  The  surface  towards  the  north  is 
generally  level,  with  an  elevation  of  about  260  feet 
above  the  sea ;  towards  the  south,  it  rises  by  gentle 
undulations  to  the  Sidlaw  hills,  which  are  from  1000  to 
1  500  feet  in  height.  The  principal  river  is  the  Dean, 
which,  issuing  from  Loch  Forfar,  at  the  north-eastern 
extremity  of  the  parish,  flows  in  a  western  direction, 
receiving  in  its  course  the  Ballandarg  burn,  the  Kerbet 
water,  and  the  Glammis  burn,  and  falling  into  the 
477 


river  Isla.  Loch  Forfar,  of  which  the  western  extre- 
mity is  within  the  parish,  was  formerly  200  acres  in 
extent,  but  has  been  reduced  to  nearly  one-half  by 
draining,  There  are  also  several  springs  in  the  parish, 
of  which  some  are  slightly  chalybeate. 

The  soil,  though  much  diversified,  is  generally  fer- 
tile :  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  Dean,  it  is  a  light 
loam,  alternated  with  gravel  and  sand,  and  in  the  hol- 
lows are  some  tracts  of  moss  ;  on  the  south  side  is  a 
deep  brown  loam  of  great  richness,  with  other  kinds. 
The  system  of  agriculture  is  advanced,  and  the  lands 
have  been  improved  by  large  quantities  of  marl,  pro- 
cured by  the  draining  of  the  lake.  The  cattle,  of  which 
great  numbers  are  reared  in  the  pastures,  are  partly  of 
the  native  Angus  breed,  and  are  sent  by  the  Dundee 
steamers  to  the  London  market,  where  they  obtain  a 
high  price.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£7S01.  The  plantations,  which  are  extensive,  and  all 
of  modern  growth,  consist  of  ash,  elm,  oak,  birch,  and 
larch,  with  spruce  and  Scotch  firs  ;  they  are  under 
careful  management,  and  in  a  thriving  state.  The  chief 
substrata  are  of  the  old  red  sandstone  formation,  whin- 
stone,  and  trap  ;  and  near  the  Sidlaw  hills  are  some 
beds  of  slate,  which  have  been  extensively  worked.  The 
sandstone  is  quarried  for  building,  and  the  whinstone 
for  the  roads ;  a  kind  of  grit  is  also  formed,  of  which 
mill-stones  are  made  for  exportation,  and  there  are 
veins  of  lead-ore,  of  which  those  near  the  village  were 
formerly  wrought.  Glammis  Castle,  the  seat  of  the 
Earl  of  Strathmore,  is  a  venerable  structure  of  great 
antiquity,  consisting  of  two  quadrangular  ranges  of 
great  strength,  crowned  with  turrets  and  lofty  towers, 
of  which  the  principal,  100  feet  in  height,  constitutes 
the  central  portion  of  the  mansion.  The  buildings  were 
repaired,  and  partly  modernised,  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  Inigo  Jones  ;  and  other  restorations  and  addi- 
tions have  been  subsequently  made.  In  front  of  the 
mansion  is  a  massive  pedestal,  on  which  are  four  lions 
rampant,  of  gigantic  size,  each  holding  a  dial,  facing  one 
of  the  cardinal  points.  The  mansion  contains  a  splen- 
did collection  of  paintings,  an  extensive  assortment  of 
ancient  armour,  and  a  valuable  museum  of  natural  curi- 
osities and  antiques.  The  park  in  which  it  is  situated 
abounds  with  ornamental  timber,  and  with  stately  ave- 
nues of  ancient  growth,  leading  to  the  house,  and  of 
which  one,  particularly  worthy  of  notice,  is  more  than 
a  mile  in  length. 

The  village  of  Glammis,  which  is  nearly  in  the  centre 
of  the  parish,  on  the  great  road  from  Aberdeen  to  Edin- 
burgh, is  neatly  built.  A  public  library,  containing 
about  ~00  volumes,  is  supported  by  subscription  ;  and  a 
handsome  building,  containing  two  spacious  halls,  has 
been  erected  by  the  friendly  societies  of  masons  and 
gardeners.  The  manufacture  of  brown  linen,  chiefly 
Osnaburghs  and  sheetings,  is  carried  on  to  a  consider- 
able extent,  for  which  purpose  a  mill  for  spinning  flax 
was  erected  on  the  Glammis  burn  in  1806;  the  machi- 
nery is  driven  by  a  water-wheel  of  twenty-four-horse 
power.  The  yarn  spun  at  this  mill  is  woven,  in  seve- 
ral of  the  numerous  villages  in  the  parish,  into  brown 
linen,  of  which  about  4000  pieces  are  annually  made  for 
the  Dundee  market ;  and  7500  pieces  are  woven  by  pri- 
vate individuals  in  different  parts  of  the  parish,  in  addi- 
tion to  what,  is  made  from  the  yarn  spun  at  the  mill. 
A  circulating  library,  containing  300  volumes,  has  been 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


opened  for  the  use  of  the  persons  employed  by  the  mill- 
owner.  The  post-office  has  a  daily  delivery  ;  and  faci- 
lity of  communication  is  maintained  by  the  roads  from 
Aberdeen  to  Edinburgh  and  from  Kirriemuir  to  Dundee, 
which  intersect  each  other  in  the  village,  and  by  good 
roads  in  various  other  directions  through  the  parish. 
A  branch  of  the  Dundee  and  Newtyle  railway  was  made 
from  Newtyle  to  this  place  in  1835;  it  is  seven  and  a 
half  miles  in  length,  and  at  about  a  mile  from  Newtyle 
a  line  diverges  from  it  to  Cupar-Angus.  Fairs  for  cat- 
tle and  sheep  are  held  annually ;  the  older  in  May  and 
November,  and  those  of  more  recent  date  in  April, 
July,  and  October. 

The  ecclesiastical  aifairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Forfar  and  synod  of  Angus 
arid  Mearns.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £255.  15.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £16.  10.  per  annum  j 
patron,  the  Earl  of  Strathmore.  The  church,  erected  in 
1793,  is  a  neat  plain  structure  with  a  spire,  and  con- 
tains 950  sittings.  The  parochial  school  is  attended  by 
about  seventy  children;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  a  house,  and  an  allowance  of  £2.  2.  in  lieu  of 
garden,  and  the  fees  average  £25  per  annum.  There 
were  three  ancient  castles  ;  one  at  Cossins,  the  property 
of  the  Strathmore  family  ;  one  in  the  glen  of  Ogilvie, 
and  one  in  the  glen  of  Denoon  ;  but  they  have  all  been 
totally  destroyed.  Within  a  short  distance  of  the 
church  is  an  obelisk  of  rude  design,  raised  to  comme- 
morate the  murder  of  Malcolm  :  on  one  side  are  sculp- 
tured the  figures  of  two  men,  above  which  are  a  lion 
and  a  centaur  ;  and  on  the  other  are  several  sorts  of 
fishes,  supposed  to  have  allusion  to  the  loch  of  Forfar, 
in  which  the  assassins  were  drowned  while  making  their 
retreat  from  the  castle.  In  a  wood  not  far  from  the 
village  of  Thornton  is  a  large  cairn,  on  which  is  also  an 
obelisk,  similar  to  the  former,  and  named  King  Mal- 
colm's Gravestone.  Near  Cossins  is  a  third  obelisk, 
called  St.  Orland's  Stone,  on  one  side  of  which  is  a 
cross  fleuri,  and  on  the  other  the  figures  of  four  men 
on  horseback,  in  full  speed,  one  of  whom  is  trampling 
under  his  horse's  feet  a  wild  boar  ;  and  near  the  base 
of  the  obelisk  is  the  figure  of  a  dragon.  This  place 
gives  the  title  of  Baron  Glammis  to  the  Earl  of 
Strathmore,  that  dignity  having  been  conferred  on 
Patrick  Lyon  in  1445. 

GLASFORD,  county  of  Lanark. — See  Glassford. 

MtSMm*  GLASGOW,  a  city, 

the  seat  of  a  university,  and 
a  sea-port,  having  separate 
jurisdiction,  locally  in  the 
Lower  ward  of  the  county 
of  Lanark,  and  situated  in 
longitude  4°  15'  51"  (W.), 
and  latitude  55°  52'  10"  (N.), 
23  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from 
Greenock,  29  (S.  W.  by  S.) 
from  Stirling,  34  (N.  E.  by  N.) 
from  Ayr,  43  (W.  byS.)  from 
Edinburgh,  79  (N.  N.  W.) 
from  Dumfries,  144  (S.  W.)  from  Aberdeen,  196  (N.  N.  E.) 
from  Dublin,  213  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from  Manchester,  and 
396  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from  London;  containing  120,183, 
and,  with  the  suburbs  of  Barony  and  Gorbals,  274,533 
inhabitants.  The  following  is  a  list  of  the  subjects 
478 


comprised   in  the  article,  with  the  page   in  which  each 
head  or  division  occurs  : — 


Seal  and  Arms. 


Eavly  History 478 

Events  of  the  15th  Century  479 

Of  the  Ifith    479 

Of  the  17lh    480 

And  of  the   18th  and  ]9th 

Centuries    481 

General  Description  of  the 

City    483 

Lighting,  Supply  of  Water, 
&c 484 

Libraries     485 

Literary  and  Scientific  In- 
stitutions           485 

Places  of  Amusement    ....      480 

Trade  and  Commerce:  ori- 
gin and  progress  of  the 
various  kinds  of  Manufac- 
ture          486 

Business  of  the  Port:  Ship- 
ping, Customs,  Harbour, 
&c 487 

Steam  Navigation 488 

Forth  and  Clyde,  Monkland, 
and  Johnstone  Canals   . .      488 

Edinburgh,  Garnkirk,  Ayr, 

and  Greenock  Railways..     489 

Public  Buildings  connected 
with  Trade:  the  Ex- 
change          489 

Corn  Exchange  and  other 
Markets 490 


Municipal  Affairs    ,  491 

Public   Buildings  connected 

with  Municipal  Affairs..  491 
Merchants'    House,  Trades' 

House.  Prisons  ......  . .  492 

Origin  and  progress  of  the 

University 492 

Its  Government ;  Professors, 

Bursaries,  &c 493 

Buildings  of  the  University  494 

The  Andersonian  Institution  494 
Ecclesiastical      Affairs: 

Parishes,  Churches,  &c....  494 

The  Cathedral 494 

Parishes  in  the  City 495 

Former  Quoad  Sacra  Pa- 
rishes    496 

Barony  Parish    496 

Necropolis 496 

Schools  and  Benevolent  In- 
stitutions         497 

The  High  School 497 

The  Royal  Infirmary 497 

Lunatic  Asylum,  Magda- 
len Asylum,  Lock  Hos- 
pital, and    St.    Nicholas' 

Hospital 497 

Hutcheson's  Hospital    ....      498 
Charitable  Societies,  and  Be- 
quests      498 

The  Town  Hospital 498 


Historical  Account. 

This  place,  which  appears  to  have  been  a  Roman 
station  within  the  wall  of  Antoninus,  and  to  have 
formed  part  of  the  province  of  Valentia,  is  conjectured  by 
some  authorities  to  derive  its  name,  originally  Glas- 
Achadh,  said  by  them  to  denote  in  the  Gaelic  language, 
"  a  green  field,"  from  a  verdant  piece  of  ground  on 
the  bank  of  the  Clyde,  by  which  it  is  bounded  on  the 
south.  According  to  others,  the  term  signifies  "  a  dark 
glen,"  and  arose  from  a  secluded  retreat  occupied  by 
St.  Kentigern,  son  of  Thametes,  daughter  of  Loth, 
King  of  the  Ficts,  who  was  born  at  Culross  about  the 
year  516.  St.  Kentigern  was  educated  under  the  care 
of  St.  Servanus,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  by  whom  he  was 
generally  addressed  in  the  Norwegian  term,  Mon  Gha, 
an  epithet  of  affectionate  endearment,  from  which  appel- 
lation he  has  been  also  designated  as  St.  Mungo.  On 
the  death  of  Servanus,  Kentigern,  who  had  become 
celebrated  for  his  sanctity,  retired  into  Wales,  where 
he  founded  a  monastery  which  he  afterwards  resigned 
to  St.  Asaph ;  and,  returning  into  Scotland,  he  fixed 
his  abode  in  a  narrow  glen  near  the  site  of  the  present 
cathedral.  Here,  after  living  for  some  time  in  a  solitary 
cell,  he,  in  560,  laid  the  foundation  of  a  stately  church, 
which  was  amply  endowed  by  Ryderick,  or  Roderick, 
King  of  the  Scots,  who  founded  the  see  of  Glasgow,  of 
which  he  made  Kentigern  the  first  bishop.  St.  Ken- 
tigern died  in  610,  and  was  buried  in  the  church  he 
had  founded,  where  his  monument  is  still  preserved. 
He  was  succeeded  in  the  diocese  by  his  disciple,  Bald- 
red,  who  had  instituted  a  religious  house  at  Inchinnan ; 
and  after  Baldred's  decease,  the  see  became  succes- 
sively a  prey  to  the  Picts,  Scots,  Saxons,  Britons,  and 
Danes,  by  whom  it  was  eventually  so  reduced  that  little 


GLAS 


G  L  A  S 


is  known  of  its  subsequent  history  for  a  period  of 
nearly  500  years.  In  111  5,  the  establishment  was  re- 
founded  by  David,  Prince  of  Cumberland,  who  appointed 
his  tutor  and  chaplain,  John  Achaius,  bishop  of  the 
diocese ;  and  on  his  accession  to  the  throne,  by  the 
title  of  David  I.,  he  richly  endowed  the  see,  and  made 
the  bishop  chancellor  of  the  kingdom.  This  office,  how- 
ever, the  bishop  soon  afterwards  resigned,  devoting 
his  attention  solely  to  the  duties  of  his  diocese ;  he 
rebuilt  part  of  the  cathedral  in  1136,  and  the  edifice 
was  consecrated  in  the  presence  of  the  king,  who,  on 
the  occasion,  assigned  to  it  the  lands  now  called  Par- 
tick.  In  1180,  Josceline,  who  had  succeeded  John 
Achaius,  materially  enlarged  and  beautified  the  cathe- 
dral, and  obtained  from  William  the  Lion  a  charter, 
erecting  the  town  which  had  risen  up  under  the  auspices 
of  the  prelates  into  a  free  burgh,  and  granting  an 
annual  fair  for  eight  days.  Consequently,  the  place 
appears  to  have  been,  in  1268,  governed  by  a  provost 
and  bailie,  appointed  by  the  bishop,  and  who  had  the 
power  to  hold  courts  of  justice,  and  enjoyed  various 
other  privileges. 

In  1300,  Edward  I.  of  England,  having  possessed 
himself  of  all  the  fortresses  in  the  country,  appointed 
Anthony  Beck  to  the  see  of  Glasgow  ;  and  his  general, 
Earl  Percy,  who  had  usurped  the  military  government 
of  the  western  district  of  Scotland,  seized  the  episcopal 
palace.  Upon  this,  the  town  became  the  scene  of  a 
sanguinary  conflict  between  the  troops  of  Edward  and 
the  Scots  under  Sir  William  Wallace,  who,  assisted 
by  his  relative,  Adam  Wallace,  of  Richardtown,  the 
laird  of  Auchinleck,  and  a  few  of  his  trusty  adherents, 
marched  from  Ayr  during  the  night,  and,  arriving  the 
following  morning  at  the  bridge  of  Glasgow,  crossed  the 
river,  and  drew  up  his  forces  on  the  spot  where  Bridge- 
gate  now  stands.  Forming  his  men  into  two  divisions, 
one,  led  by  Wallace,  marched  directly  up  the  High- 
street  to  meet  Percy's  troops,  consisting  of  1000  men, 
and  the  other  division,  led  by  the  laird  of  Auchinleck, 
took  a  circuitous  route  by  Drygate.  The  action  com- 
menced between  Wallace's  party  and  the  earl,  near  the 
site  of  the  present  college,  and  was  continued  for  a 
time  with  resolute  valour  on  both  sides  ;  but,  while  the 
victory  was  still  doubtful,  the  division  under  Auchinleck, 
attacking  the  English  in  the  rear,  put  them  completely 
to  the  rout.  Percy  was  killed  by  Wallace,  who,  not 
thinking  his  victory  decisive,  or  deeming  it  unsafe  to 
remain  in  his  present  situation,  advanced  to  Bothwell, 
and,  assailing  a  large  body  of  Northumbrians,  gained  a 
second  victory  over  superior  numbers.  In  the  years 
1350,  1380,  and  1381,  the  plague  committed  great 
ravages  in  the  town :  and  in  13S7,  during  the  prelacy 
of  Bishop  Glendoning,  the  spire  of  the  cathedral  was 
destroyed  by  lightning.  A  mint  was  established  in 
Drygate-street  in  the  time  of  Stuart,  Earl  of  Carrick, 
afterwards  Robert  III. ;  and  coins  were  struck,  having 
on  the  obverse  the  king's  crest  and  crown,  without 
the  sceptre,  with  the  legend  "  Robertus,  Dei  Gratia  Rex 
Scotorum,"  and  on  the  reverse,  "  Dominus  Protector" 
around  the  outer  circle,  and  in  an  inner  circle  "  Villa 
de  Glasgow."  In  1431,  Isabella,  cousin  to  James  I.,  de- 
vised the  lands  of  Ballagan  to  the  convent  of  the  Grey 
Friars  at  Glasgow,  for  the  salvation  of  her  soul,  and  of 
those  of  her  husband,  the  Duke  of  Albany  ;  her  father  ; 
and  three  sons. 
479 


From  1450  to  1570. 

In  1450,  Bishop  Turnbull  obtained  from  James  II. 
a  charter  erecting  Glasgow  into  a  regality,  and  from 
Pope  Nicholas  V.  a  bull  for  the  foundation  of  a  univer- 
sity, which  he  amply  endowed.  This  establishment 
tended  greatly  to  the  increase  and  prosperity  of  the 
town,  which,  prior  to  that  event,  had  scarcely  a  popu- 
lation of  1500  persons;  but  the  privileges  granted  to 
the  new  institution  deprived  the  citizens,  to  a  consider- 
able extent,  of  their  political  independence.  The  bishops, 
also,  a  long  time  exercised  the  right  of  appointing  the 
provost  and  bailies  of  the  regality ;  but  it  eventually 
became  vested  in  the  Lennox  family,  who  ultimately 
resigned  their  power  to  the  crown,  and  after  1621  the 
election  was  vested  in  the  magistrates  and  council  of 
the  town.  At  this  time,  the  inhabitants  resided  chiefly 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  cathedral,  and  in  that  part  of  the 
High-street  which  was  bounded  by  the  episcopal  palace. 
After  the  foundation  of  St.  Nicholas'  hospital  and  the 
establishment  of  the  university,  however,  the  city  began 
gradually  to  extend  to  the  present  Cross,  and  eastward 
in  the  direction  of  the  Gallowgate.  In  1484,  the  citi- 
zens erected  a  collegiate  church  dedicated  to  the  Blessed 
Virgin,  in  a  right  line  westward  from  the  Gallowgate, 
and  the  buildings  consequently  stretched  towards  that 
edifice,  now  the  Tron  church  :  the  inhabitants  being 
then  chiefly  employed  in  the  fishery  of  the  Clyde,  a 
street  was  also  formed,  leading  to  the  river,  and  which 
was  called  Fishergate,  and  is  now  Bridgegate-street. 
By  act  of  parliament,  in  1488,  the  diocese  of  Glasgow- 
was  erected  into  a  metropolitan  see,  of  which  Robert 
Blacadder  became  archbishop ;  and  the  temporalities 
and  privileges  of  the  archdiocese  were  confirmed  by 
charter  of  James  VI.  After  the  martyrdom  of  Hamilton, 
abbot  of  Ferme,  who  had  imbibed  the  doctrines  of  the 
reformed  religion,  and  who  was  burnt  at  St.  Andrews 
in  153S,  it  was  thought  expedient,  for  the  suppression 
of  heresy,  to  make  a  public  example  in  the  city  of 
Glasgow ;  and  as  the  then  archbishop,  Dunbar,  was  a  man 
of  extreme  benevolence  and  an  enemy  to  persecution, 
some  friars  were  sent  from  St.  Andrew's  for  the  purpose. 
On  this  occasion,  Jeremiah  Russell,  of  the  Grey  Friars, 
at  Glasgow,  and  a  young  gentleman  of  Ayr,  not  more 
than  eighteen  years  of  age,  were  condemned  to  be 
burnt  at  the  stake  ;  and  the  sentence,  notwithstanding 
the  remonstrances  of  the  bishop,  was  soon  afterwards 
executed.  On  the  death  of  James  V.,  his  daughter, 
Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  embarked  for  France;  and 
Cardinal  Beaton,  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrew's,  being 
appointed  regent,  subsequently  resigned  that  post  to  the 
Earl  of  Arran,  afterwards  Duke  of  Chatelherault ;  but 
the  earl  became  so  unpopular  that  the  queen  dowager 
and  the  cardinal  invited  the  Earl  of  Lennox,  then  in 
France,  to  come  over,  and  take  upon  himself  the  office. 
Arran,  however,  compromising  his  difference  with  the 
queen  and  Beaton,  was  allowed  nominally  to  retain  the 
regency,  leaving  the  chief  administration  to  the  cardinal. 
Lennox,  exasperated  by  this  insult,  raised  an  army  of 
10,000  men,  and,  marching  from  Glasgow  to  Leith, 
offered  the  cardinal  battle ;  but  the  latter,  unprepared 
to  encounter  so  formidable  a  force,  negotiated  for  a 
truce,  and  the  earl  returned  to  Glasgow,  and,  placing 
a  garrison  in  the  bishop's  castle,  proceeded  to  Dum- 
barton to  hold  a  conference.     The  regent,  having  mus- 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


tered  an  army  in  the  mean  time,  stormed  the  castle, 
and,  after  compelling  the  garrison  to  surrender  upon 
terms,  put  every  man  to  the  sword.  Upon  this,  Lennox, 
resolved  on  making  a  desperate  effort  to  displace  Arran, 
and  obtain  the  regency,  in  which  he  was  assisted  by 
the  Earl  of  Glencairn,  attempted  to  march  to  Clydesdale 
to  give  his  opponents  battle ;  and  the  regent,  to  pre- 
vent this  movement,  endeavoured  to  take  possession 
of  Glasgow ;  but  Glencairn,  with  about  800  of  his 
vassals,  aided  by  the  citizens,  attacked  the  troops  of 
the  regent  at  a  place  called  the  Butts,  and  achieved  a 
partial  success,  becoming  master  of  the  artillery  of  his 
adversaries.  Just  on  the  eve  of  victory,  however,  a 
small  party  of  horse  under  Robert  Boyd  coming  to  the 
succour  of  the  regent,  Glencairn,  apprehending  that  a 
greater  force  was  in  reserve,  fled  with  the  utmost  pre- 
cipitation ;  and  Arran,  entering  the  city,  abandoned  it 
to  the  mercy  of  his  soldiers,  by  whom  it  was  plundered 
and  nearly  destroyed.  In  this  engagement  two  gallant 
sons  of  the  Earl  of  Glencairn  were  slain. 

Henry,  Lord  Darnley,  the  husband  of  Mary,  Queen 
of  Scots,  after  the  celebration  of  the  birth  of  a  son,  in 
1566,  arrived  from  Stirling  on  a  visit  to  his  father,  who 
resided  at  Limmerfield,  near  the  Barony  church,  Glas- 
gow, where  being  taken  ill,  the  queen  came  from  Stirling, 
and  remained  with  him  till  he  was  sufficiently  recovered 
to  be  removed  to  Edinburgh.  In  1568,  the  queen,  who 
had  been  kept  prisoner  in  the  castle  of  Lochleven, 
effecting  her  escape,  was  joined  by  the  Earls  of  Argyll, 
Eglinton,  Cassillis,  Rothes,  and  others,  who  assembled 
an  army  to  displace  the  Regent  Murray,  and  raise  her 
to  the  throne.  The  regent,  at  that  time  employed  in 
holding  a  court  in  Glasgow,  was  taken  by  surprise  ;  but, 
hastily  raising  what  forces  he  could,  and  being  joined 
by  the  Earls  of  Montrose,  Mar,  and  Monteith,  the  Lords 
Temple,  Home,  and  Lindsay,  and  a  number  of  the  citi- 
zens, he  advanced  to  intercept  the  queen's  party  on 
their  march  to  Dumbarton  Castle,  and,  crossing  the 
bridge,  took  up  a  position  on  a  hill  near  the  village  of 
Langside,  about  two  miles  from  Glasgow.  A  battle 
ensued,  in  which  the  regent's  forces  were  completely 
victorious,  leaving  300  of  the  queen's  army  dead  on  the 
field,  and  taking  400  prisoners.  The  queen,  during  the 
whole  of  the  engagement,  stood  on  a  hill ;  and  when 
she  saw  her  troops  defeated,  mounted  her  horse,  and 
fled  to  the  abbey  of  Dundrennan,  in  Galloway,  a  dis- 
tance of  sixty  miles,  without  taking  any  rest.  The 
regent  returned  to  Glasgow,  where  he  offered  a  public 
thanksgiving  for  his  victory,  and  was  sumptuously  en- 
tertained by  the  magistrates  and  council,  through  whom 
he  expressed  his  obligation  to  the  citizens  for  their 
bravery  and  fidelity  ;  and  on  a  representation  made  to 
him  by  the  dean  of  guild,  that  undue  exactions  were 
practised  at  the  Mill  of  Partick,  then  the  property  of 
the  crown,  he  granted  it  to  the  corporation,  with  the 
lands  appertaining  to  it.  In  1570,  the  castle  of  Glasgow 
was  assaulted  by  the  Hamiltons  and  their  party  ;  but, 
though  the  governor  was  at  that  time  absent,  and  the 
garrison  consisted  only  of  twenty-four  men,  they  de- 
fended themselves  with  such  resolution  that  the  assailants 
were  repulsed  with  considerable  loss ;  and  two  days 
after  the  siege,  Sir  William  Drury,  arriving  with  a  party 
of  English,  advanced  to  Hamilton,  took  the  castle  there 
by  storm,  and  in  retaliation  of  the  aggression  of  its  pro- 
prietors, demolished  it  entirely. 
480 


From    15*0  to   1725. 

When  the  doctrines  of  the  Reformation  had  made 
considerable  progress,  Archbishop  James  Beaton,  nephew 
of  the  cardinal,  and  the  last  of  the  Roman  Catholic  pre- 
lates of  Glasgow,  finding  it  hopeless  to  try  to  regain  his 
influence,  removed  the  relics,  plate,  and  ancient  records, 
with  every  thing  of  value,  from  the  cathedral  church 
into  his  castle ;  and  subsequently  retired  to  France, 
taking  with  him  the  treasures  he  had  accumulated. 
After  his  departure,  the  Earl  of  Lennox  appointed  a 
nominal  archbishop,  while  he  himself  wielded  all  the 
powers,  and  appropriated  all  the  revenues  of  the  see  ; 
and  the  people,  having  cast  off  the  yoke  of  papal 
tyranny,  vented  their  fury  on  those  sacred  edifices  which 
they  had  previously  regarded  with  so  much  veneration. 
The  cathedral  was  stripped  of  its  leaden  roof  in  1573; 
and  in  1579,  under  the  sanction  of  the  legislature,  the 
magistrates,  at  the  solicitation  of  Melville,  principal  of 
the  college,  issued  a  warrant  for  its  final  destruction. 
It  was,  however,  preserved  by  the  resolute  conduct  of 
the  incorporated  trades,  who,  when  the  workmen,  to  the 
number  of  several  hundreds,  were  summoned  by  beat 
of  drum  to  commence  the  task  of  demolition,  formed 
themselves  into  a  body,  and  threatened  instant  death  to 
the  first  man  that  should  attempt  to  displace  a  single 
stone.  So  highly,  indeed,  were  the  citizens  incensed  at 
this  attempt  to  destroy  the  proudest  ornament  of  the 
citjr,  that,  had  not  the  magistrates  restrained  them,  they 
would  have  wreaked  their  vengeance  upon  Melville  and 
all  his  adherents.  For  this  insurrection,  the  citizens 
were  summoned  by  the  ministers  to  appear  before  the 
council  at  Edinburgh,  where,  however,  the  king,  at  that 
time  not  more  than  thirteen  years  of  age,  expressed 
his  approbation  of  their  conduct,  and  commanded  the 
ministers  to  proceed  no  further  in  the  affair,  observing 
that  too  many  churches  had  already  been  destroyed,  and 
that  he  would  not  suffer  any  more  abuses  of  the  kind. 
The  confession  of  faith,  which  had  been  subscribed  by 
James  VI.  and  his  household,  and  afterwards  by  all  ranks 
in  the  kingdom,  was  subscribed  in  1581  by  2250  persons 
in  Glasgow.  In  1603,  the  pestilence  made  great  ravages 
in  the  city.  The  prison  of  the  Tolbooth  was  erected  in 
the  same  year ;  and  in  the  year  following,  some  regula- 
tions respecting  precedency  among  the  several  trading 
companies  were  laid  down,  which  were  confirmed  by  the 
king  and  parliament  in  1612,  under  the  designation  of 
the  letter  of  guildry.  In  16 13,  regular  bills  of  mortality 
were  first  ordered  to  be  kept.  In  1622,  the  church  of 
the  Black  Friars  was  erected  on  ground  given  by  the 
college,  who  assigned  their  right  of  patronage  to  the 
magistrates  and  council;  and  in  1636,  the  town-hall, 
adjoining  the  Tolbooth,  and  the  meal-market,  were  built. 
A  royal  charter  was  obtained  in  the  course  of  this  year 
for  the  appointment  of  a  water-bailie,  with  maritime, 
civil,  and  criminal  jurisdiction  extending  from  the  bridge 
of  Glasgow  to  the  Clough,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Clyde, 
about  twenty-six  miles  below  the  town.  In  1649,  Glas- 
gow was  visited  with  pestilence  and  famine ;  and  in 
1652,  a  destructive  fire  broke  out  on  the  east  side  of 
the  High-street,  which,  communicating  with  the  Salt- 
market,  spread  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  and 
extending  to  the  Trongate,  Gallowgate,  and  Bridgegate 
streets,  destroyed  nearly  one-third  of  the  city,  and  pro- 
perty to  the  amount  of  £100,000. 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


In  1650,  Oliver  Cromwell,  having  gained  posses- 
sion of  Edinburgh,  advanced  to  Glasgow,  and  took  up 
his  abode  at  Silver-Craigs  House,  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Salt-market,  where  he  held  his  levees.  Understand- 
ing that  Patrick  Gillespie,  minister  of  the  Outer  High 
church,  had  the  chief  influence  in  ecclesiastical  affairs, 
he  invited  him  to  a  conference ;  and  on  the  following 
Sunday,  he  went  in  state  to  the  cathedral,  when  Mr. 
Zachary  Boyd,  being  appointed  to  preach,  took  occasion  in 
his  sermon  to  inveigh  against  the  conduct  of  the  usurper. 
In  1650,  also,  the  presbytery  of  Glasgow  issued  an  edict, 
requiring  every  minister  to  appropriate  a  certain  por- 
tion of  his  stipend  to  the  raising  and  maintenance  of  a 
regiment  of  horse,  for  the  protection  of  the  church,  and 
the  defence  of  the  country  from  the  invasion  of  the 
sectarians.  The  regiment  was  well  appointed,  but  was 
so  governed  as  to  promote  only  the  interests  of  Crom- 
well, who,  in  1658,  addressed  a  letter  to  the  provost, 
requesting  that  the  election  of  the  magistrates  might  be 
deferred.  In  1660,  the  restoration  of  Charles  II.  was 
celebrated,  agreeably  to  the  order  of  the  session,  by  a 
public  thanksgiving ;  but  on  the  attempt,  soon  after- 
wards, to  introduce  episcopacy  into  Scotland,  the  citi- 
zens strenuously  opposed  the  king's  mandate.  On  the 
refusal  both  of  the  clergy  and  laity  to  comply,  the  Earl 
of  Middleton,  with  a  committee  of  the  privy  council, 
came  to  Glasgow,  and  having  assembled  in  the  college, 
the  earl  informed  the  committee  that  the  archbishop 
desired  the  royal  order  to  be  enforced,  to  which  the 
whole  meeting  acquiesced,  with  the  exception  of  Lord 
Lee,  who  declared  that  such  a  course  would  desolate  the 
country.  It  was,  nevertheless,  carried  into  effect,  and 
in  one  day  400  ministers  were  expelled  from  their 
churches  :  the  citizens  of  Glasgow,  who  were  chiefly 
Covenanters,  suffered  great  persecution;  and  in  1666, 
several  of  them  were  hanged  in  the  streets  for  refusing 
to  embrace  episcopacy.  In  16*7,  a  second  conflagra- 
tion broke  out,  and  destroyed  130  houses,  upon  which 
occasion  the  citizens  burst  open  the  gaol,  and,  on  the 
alleged  plea  of  preserving  life,  liberated  the  prisoners, 
most  of  whom  were  confined  on  a  charge  of  noncon- 
formity. Notwithstanding  these  severe  calamities,  the 
city  appears  to  have  made  a  steady  progress  in  import- 
ance, and  in  1695,  under  an  act  of  general  assessment, 
was  returned  as  the  second  place  in  Scotland  in  point 
of  wealth  and  prosperity.  The  election  of  the  magis- 
trates, however,  seems  to  have  been  completely  under 
the  controul  of  the  government:  in  1681,  it  was  deferred 
because  the  Duke  of  York  had  not  decided  with  respect 
to  the  individuals  to  be  selected ;  and  after  he  had  left 
the  town,  and  an  election  had  taken  place  which  was 
not  conformable  to  his  wishes,  the  privy  council  ordered 
a  new  choice  to  be  made,  and  many  of  the  town  coun- 
cillors were  removed  from  office.  In  16S9,  the  magis- 
trates and  council  were  appointed  by  the  concurrent 
votes  of  all  the  burgesses;  and  in  1690,  Glasgow  was 
created  a  free  burgh  by  charter  of  William  and  Mary, 
and  invested  with  privileges  equal  to  those  of  Edin- 
burgh, or  any  royal  burgh  within  the  kingdom,  and 
which  they  have  ever  since  retained. 

Towards  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  the 
inhabitants  began  to  display  a  spirit  of  active  enterprise 
in  trade  and  commerce  ;  and  finding  a  very  insufficient 
depth  of  water  in  their  old  port  of  Broomielaw,  which 
was  accessible  only  to  small  craft,  they  took  measures 
Vol.  I. — 481 


for  the  construction  of  a  new  harbour,  nearer  the  mouth 
of  the  Clyde.  For  this  purpose  they  proposed  to  form 
a  port  at  Dumbarton  ;  but,  being  opposed  in  their  de- 
sign by  the  magistrates  of  that  place,  they  fixed  upon  a 
site  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  and  in  1662  pur- 
chased thirteen  acres  of  land  from  Sir  Robert  Maxwell, 
near  the  village  of  Newark,  about  nineteen  miles  below 
Glasgow.  Here,  having  laid  out  the  plan  of  a  town, 
they  constructed  the  first  dry-dock  in  Scotland  ;  and  in 
1*14,  having  obtained  from  the  presbytery  a  separation 
of  the  lands  from  the  parish  of  Kilmalcolm,  they  erected 
them  into  the  present  parish  of  Port-Glasgow,  of  which 
the  patronage  was  vested  in  the  City.  On  the  union 
of  the  two  kingdoms  in  1707,  the  people  of  Glasgow 
showed  such  hostility  to  the  measure,  and  manifested 
such  a  disposition  to  break  out  into  open  violence,  that 
the  magistrates  found  it  necessary  to  prohibit  the  meet- 
ing of  more  than  three  persons  together  in  the  streets, 
after  sunset.  The  population  at  that  time  was  about 
14,000;  trade  and  commerce  were  but  in  their  infancy; 
and  so  little  affluence  prevailed,  even  among  the  higher 
classes  of  the  citizens,  that  the  members  of  parliament 
received  payment  for  attending  the  sessions.  In  1712, 
an  inundation  of  the  Clyde,  during  whichthe  water  rose 
to  the  height  of  eighteen  feet  six  inches  above  its  ordi- 
nary level,  did  much  damage  in  the  lower  parts  of  the 
town.  In  1715,  when  the  rebellion  under  the  Earl  of 
Mar  broke  out,  the  citizens,  at  their  own  expense,  raised 
a  regiment  of  600  men,  which,  led  by  the  provost, 
marched  to  Stirling,  and  joined  the  king's  forces  ;  and 
in  order  to  protect  themselves  from  the  depredations  of 
the  rebels,  the  inhabitants  intrenched  the  town  with  a 
ditch,  twelve  feet  broad  and  six  feet  deep.  An  imposi- 
tion of  two  pence  Scotch  upon  each  pint  of  ale  sold 
within  the  burgh  was  granted  by  act  of  parliament,  in 
1722,  to  the  magistrates,  to  enable  them  to  improve 
and  beautify  the  city  ;  and  in  1724,  the  town  was  so 
much  enlarged  that  an  additional  place  of  worship  was 
found  necessary,  and  the  Ramshorn  church  was  conse- 
quently erected  in  the  north-west. 

From   1725  to   1775. 

In  1725,  on  the  extension  of  the  malt-tax  to  Scot- 
land, for  which  measure  Mr.  Campbell,  of  Shawfield, 
member  for  the  city,  had  given  his  vote,  the  inhabitants 
were  highly  exasperated;  and  on  the  23rd  June,  the  day 
on  which  the  act  was  to  come  into  operation,  a  tumultuous 
assembly  collected  in  the  streets,  and  violently  obstructed 
the  excisemen  in  the  discharge  of  their  duty.  To  quell 
this  insurrection,  two  companies  of  Lord  Deloraine's 
regiment  of  foot,  commanded  by  Captain  Bushell,  were 
sent  into  the  town,  for  whose  accommodation  the  ma- 
gistrates ordered  the  guard-house  to  be  prepared  ;  but 
the  populace  took  forcible  possession  of  it,  and  locking 
the  doors,  carried  off  the  keys,  and,  proceeding  to  Mr. 
Campbell's  house  at  Shawfield,  demolished  it  entirely. 
On  their  return,  the  rioters  broke  open  the  town  maga- 
zine, and  distributing  the  arms,  formed  themselves  into 
a  body,  and  attacked  the  military,  who,  by  the  advice 
of  the  provost,  were  leaving  the  city.  After  patiently 
sustaining  the  assault  of  the  rioters  for  some  time,  Cap- 
tain Bushell  ordered  his  party  to  fire,  when  nine  of  the 
citizens  were  killed,  and  seventeen  wounded;  and  the 
military,  without  further  molestation,  retired  to  Dum- 

3Q 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


barton  Castle.  When  this  affair  was  reported  to  the 
secretary  of  state,  General  Wade  was  dispatched  to 
Glasgow  with  the  remaining  companies  of  Lord  Delo- 
raine's  regiment,  six  troops  of  dragoons,  a  troop  of  Lord 
Stair's  cavalry,  and  a  company  of  Highlanders  under 
the  command  of  Captain  Campbell,  of  Lochnell.  These 
having  taken  possession  of  the  town,  the  lord  advocate 
investigated  the  matter,  and  committed  nineteen  of  the 
rioters  to  prison,  to  be  conveyed  on  the  following  day 
to  Edinburgh  by  Captain  Bushel],  who,  with  his  two 
companies  of  foot,  had  returned  from  Dumbarton.  It 
appearing  also,  in  the  course  of  the  inquiry,  that  the 
magistrates  had  countenanced  the  rioters  in  the  de- 
struction of  Mr.  Campbell's  house,  as  well  as  in  their 
attack  on  the  military,  the  provost  and  others  were 
committed  to  the  Tolbooth  ;  and  the  lord  advocate  re- 
fusing to  accept  of  bail,  they  were  placed  under  a  guard 
of  the  Royal  Scotch  dragoons,  and  sent  as  prisoners  to 
Edinburgh  Castle.  Application,  however,  being  made 
to  the  lords  justiciary  to  accept  of  bail,  the  provost  and 
the  other  magistrates  were  liberated  on  the  29th  of  July, 
and,  on  their  return  to  Glasgow,  were  met  on  the  road 
by  200  of  the  inhabitants  on  horseback,  and  brought 
into  the  city  in  triumph.  Captain  Bushell  was  tried  for 
the  murder  of  the  niue  citizens  upon  whom  he  ordered 
his  party  to  fire,  and  found  guilty,  but  was  afterwards 
pardoned. 

In  the  rebellion  of  1*45,  the  citizens  showed  then- 
attachment  to  the  reigning  family  by  raising  two  batta- 
lions, of  600  men  each,  for  the  service  of  government, 
of  which  one  was  engaged  in  the  battle  of  Falkirk,  and 
signalized  itself  for  its  intrepidity.  The  rebels,  exas- 
perated by  this  display  of  loyalty,  resolved  to  retaliate 
upon  the  citizens,  by  plundering  and  setting  fire  to  the 
town,  from  which  they  were  diverted  only  by  the  influ- 
ence of  Cameron  of  Lochiel,  who  threatened,  if  they 
persisted  in  that  determination,  to  withdraw  his  clan 
from  their  party.  On  the  14th  of  September,  the  ma- 
gistrates received  a  letter  from  the  Pretender's  son, 
demanding  from  the  corporation  the  payment  of  £15,000 
sterling,  with  all  arrears  of  taxes  that  might  be  then 
due  to  government,  and  a  supply  of  arms  and  ammu- 
nition ;  but,  expecting  to  be  relieved  by  the  forces  of 
Sir  John  Cope,  then  on  their  march  to  the  north,  the 
magistrates  refused  compliance.  After  the  unfavourable 
result  of  Cope's  expedition,  however,  they  deemed  it 
prudent  to  comply  with  a  second  demand  by  Sir  John 
Hay  in  person,  attended  by  a  company  of  horse,  and 
Glengyle,  chief  of  the  Me  Gregor  clan,  who,  having 
authority  to  mitigate  the  sum,  if  he  judged  it  expe- 
dient, effected  a  compromise  by  receiving  £5000  in 
money  and  £500  in  goods.  On  the  return  of  the  rebel 
army  from  England,  Sir  John  Hay  made  another  claim 
for  12,000  linen  shirts,  6000  cloth  coats,  6000  pairs  of 
shoes,  6000  pairs  of  hose,  and  6000  bonnets,  to  which 
the  magistrates  were  compelled  to  yield.  These  sup- 
plies, together  with  the  previous  payments,  and  the 
expense  of  maintaining  the  two  battalions  they  had 
raised,  cost  the  city  £14,000,  of  which,  on  application  to 
the- government,  they  received  £10,000  in  1749.  In  the 
course  of  this  year  the  first  local  bank  was  established 
in  the  city,  under  the  title  of  the  Ship  Banking  Com- 
pany j  and  in  1752,  the  first  theatre  was  built,  inCastle- 
street.  In  1755,  the  merchants  of  Glasgow,  with  a 
view  of  extending  their  commerce,  and  opening  a  more 
482 


direct  communication  with  the  continent  of  Europe,  pro- 
jected the  construction  of  a  canal  from  the  river  Clyde 
to  the  river  Forth,  which  was  afterwards  carried  into 
effect,  upon  an  enlarged  scale,  under  an  act  of  parlia- 
ment, by  John  Smeaton,  the  skilful  engineer.  A  colla- 
teral branch  from  the  same  to  the  city  of  Glasgow,  and 
also  a  cut  from  the  port  of  Borrowstounness  to  join 
the  canal  near  the  Frith  of  Forth,  were  proposed  about 
the  same  time  ;  but  the  latter  of  these  was  never  com- 
pleted. An  elegant  bridge  was  erected  over  the  Clyde, 
near  the  old  bridge  built  by  Bishop  Raye,  which,  since 
the  introduction  of  wheel  carriages,  had  been  found 
inconveniently  narrow;  and  in  1770  an  act  of  parlia- 
ment was  obtained  for  deepening  the  river  from  Dum- 
buck  ford  to  Glasgow,  by  which  an  additional  depth  of 
seven  feet  was  gained  at  the  quay  of  Broomielaw.  A 
navigable  canal,  also,  was  cut  from  the  high  ground 
above  the  cathedral  to  the  parish  of  Monkland. 

From  1775  to  the  present  time. 

The  trade  of  the  port  had  been,  from  the  time  of  the 
Union,  making  gradual  but  steady  progress,  and  in  17*5 
employed  more  than  60,000  tons  of  shipping  in  the  im- 
portation of  merchandise,  chiefly  from  America  :  in  the 
single  article  of  tobacco,  the  annual  import  averaged 
57,143  hogsheads.  Upon  the  breaking  out  of  the  Ame- 
rican war,  however,  the  trade  of  Glasgow  received  a 
very  severe  check.  On  this  occasion,  the  city  raised  a 
corps  of  1000  men,  well  appointed,  for  the  service  of 
government;  and  the  merchants  at  the  same  time  fitted 
out  fourteen  privateers,  of  twelve  and  twenty-two  guns 
and  1000  men,  which,  in  the  course  of  the  war,  were  of 
great  service  in  driving  off  the  privateers  of  the  enemy, 
and  protecting  the  trade  of  the  coast.  In  1779,  on  a 
motion  being  made  for  bringing  into  parliament  a  bill 
to  repeal  the  penal  statutes  against  Roman  Catho- 
lics, about.  12,000  of  the  citizens  formed  themselves  into 
societies  for  opposing  the  contemplated  measure.  The 
minds  of  the  populace  were  so  inflamed,  indeed,  that  on 
the  22nd  of  October,  a  mob  assembled  during  divine  ser- 
vice, and,  proceeding  to  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel  in 
High-street,  scattered  the  congregation,  destroyed  the 
paintings  and  ornaments  round  the  altar,  and  were 
only  restrained  from  the  entire  demolition  of  the  build- 
ing by  the  arrival  of  the  magistrates,  with  a  competent 
force,  to  disperse  them.  Meeting  a  second  time,  they 
pulled  down  the  warehouse  of  a  Roman  Catholic  in 
King-street ;  and  on  being  compelled  to  retire  by  the 
magistrates  and  a  party  of  the  military,  they  hastened  to 
his  dwelling-house,  which  they  burnt,  with  all  the  fur- 
niture. The  introduction  of  a  bill  into  parliament,  soon 
afterwards,  for  taking  off  the  duty  upon  French  cam- 
bric, also  excited  great  discontent ;  and  a  large  body  of 
weavers  in  the  town,  and  from  the  adjacent  villages, 
paraded  the  streets  on  horseback,  with  an  effigy  of  the 
minister  who  proposed  the  bill,  which  effigy  they  first 
hanged,  and  afterwards  burnt  in  the  market-place  :  the 
bill  was  subsequently  withdrawn.  From  the  commence- 
ment of  the  war  with  America,  the  attention  of  the  citi- 
zens had  been  more  particularly  directed  to  the  increase 
of  manufactures  j  and  the  population  having  been  con- 
sequently augmented,  the  first  stone  of  a  new  church, 
dedicated  to  St.  Enoch,  was  laid  on  the  12th  of  April, 
1780;   and  in  the  following  year,  the  Tontine-buildings 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


and  coffee-rooms  were  erected,  to  the  great  ornament  of 
the  city. 

In  17  S2,  another  inundation  of  the  Clyde  took  place 
on  the  11th  and  12th  of  March,  after  an  almost  unin- 
terrupted fall  of  snow  and  rain  for  several  days.  The 
waters,  on  the  11th,  spread  over  the  Green,  stopped  all 
communication  by  the  bridges,  and  flooded  the  Bridge- 
gate-street,  to  the  depth  of  several  feet :  during  the 
night,  the  flood  increased,  and,  after  extinguishing  the 
fires  on  the  ground  floors  of  the  houses,  ascended  to  the 
bed  rooms  of  the  inhabitants.  On  the  following  morn- 
ing, however,  the  waters  began  to  decrease  ;  and  inter- 
course with  the  houses  was  maintained  by  boats,  which 
supplied  the  inmates  with  food  and  other  necessaries. 
Upon  the  13th,  the  river  assumed  the  ordinary  level. 
So  extensive  was  the  inundation  in  the  town  and  neigh- 
bourhood, that  the  village  of  Gorbals  appeared  as  an 
island  in  the  midst  of  the  sea;  and  the  rapidity  of  the 
current  was  so  strong  that  the  greatest  apprehensions 
were  entertained  for  the  safety  of  the  bridges.  This 
calamity  was  followed,  during  the  same  year,  by  a  gene- 
ral failure  of  the  crops,  and  a  consequent  dearth  of  pro- 
visions, under  which  the  sufferings  of  the  inhabitants 
were  alieviated  by  the  exertions  of  the  magistrates,  who 
offered  a  bounty  upon  all  provisions  brought  into  the 
town,  and  by  various  wealthy  individuals,  who  combined 
together,  and,  purchasing  large  quantities  of  supplies  of 
every  kind,  sold  them  at  a  very  considerable  rate  below 
the  prime  cost.  In  1787.  a  spirit  of  discontent,  which 
had  for  some  time  prevailed  among  the  journeymen 
weavers,  broke  out  into  open  violence ;  and  a  mob, 
assembling,  and  demanding  an  increase  of  wages,  which 
was  not  granted,  proceeded  to  cut  down  the  webs  from 
the  looms  of  such  as  were  willing  to  work  at  the  pre- 
vious prices,  destroyed  the  property  of  the  master  wea- 
vers, cleared  out  the  goods  from  their  warehouses,  and 
burnt  them  in  the  streets.  To  quell  these  outrages,  the 
magistrates,  with  a  party  of  peace-officers,  advanced  to 
Calton ;  but  they  were  overpowered,  and  compelled  to 
retire ;  and  it  was  not  till  they  had  obtained  a  detach- 
ment of  the  39th  regiment,  commanded  by  Lieut. -Col. 
Kellet,  that  they  were  enabled  to  disperse  the  rioters.  On 
approaching  them  for  this  purpose,  the  military  were 
assailed  with  stones,  brickbats,  and  other  missiles ;  but, 
after  the  magistrates  had  read  the  Riot  act,  and  strenu- 
ously exhorted  the  people  to  desist,  the  soldiers  were 
ordered  to  fire,  and  three  of  the  ringleaders  were  killed, 
and  several  of  the  rioters  wounded,  upon  which  the  mob 
thought  proper  to  return  to  their  homes. 

After  the  conclusion  of  the  American  war  in  17S3, 
the  merchants  made  every  exertion  to  revive  their  com- 
merce, and  established  a  chamber  of  commerce  and 
manufactures,  which  was  afterwards  incorporated  by 
royal  charter.  Encouraged  by  the  increasing  prospe- 
rity of  the  town,  the  magistrates  let  out,  on  building 
leases,  the  Ramshorn  lands,  to  the  north  of  the  town, 
binding  the  lessees  to  erect  their  buildings  according  to 
an  improved  plan,  laying  out  the  ground  in  regularly- 
formed  streets  and  squares  ;  and  consequently,  upon  a 
site  of  considerable  extent,  formerly  occupied  as  orchards 
and  gardens,  stately  ranges  have  been  raised,  which, 
in  beauty  and  magnificence  of  appearance,  are  almost 
unrivalled  by  those  of  any  city  in  the  kingdom.  In 
1790,  the  canal  joining  the  Forth  and  Clyde,  which  had 
been  commenced  in  1768,  was  completed  ;  and  on  the 
483 


29th  of  June,  the  communication  was  opened  by  Archi- 
bald Speirs,  Esq.,  of  Elderslie,  chairman  of  the  com- 
mittee of  management,  who,  with  the  assistance  of  the 
principal  engineer,  poured  a  hogshead  of  water,  brought 
from  the  river  Forth  by  the  canal,  into  the  Clyde,  in 
commemoration  of  the  union  of  the  eastern  and  western 
seas.  In  1793,  the  Tron  church  was  destroyed  by  an 
accidental  fire,  which  broke  out  in  the  session-house  ad- 
joining; and  the  records  of  the  general  session  were  all 
burnt.  In  the  following  year,  a  scheme  was  projected 
for  letting  the  lands  appertaining  to  Hutcheson's  hos- 
pital on  building  leases,  and  the  plan  of  a  village,  to  be 
called  Hutchesonton,  was  prepared  :  the  foundation 
stone  of  a  new  bridge  was  laid  by  the  lord  provost  and 
magistrates ;  and  the  Glasgow  infirmary,  of  which  the 
foundation  had  been  laid  two  years  before,  was  opened 
for  the  reception  of  patients.  In  1795,  the  citizens,  to 
counteract  the  menaced  attempts  of  the  abettors  of  the 
French  revolution,  enrolled  themselves  into  two  corps 
of  volunteers,  for  the  protection  of  the  city,  and  the 
defence  of  their  coast,  under  the  sanction  of  parliament. 
On  the  18th  of  November,  a  third  inundation  of  the 
Clyde  did  much  damage  to  the  lower  parts  of  the  town  : 
about  the  middle  of  the  day,  the  current  was  so  impe- 
tuous that  it  shook  the  piers  of  the  newly-erected  bridge, 
causing  two  of  the  arches  to  fall  into  the  river  ;  and  in 
the  course  of  the  afternoon,  the  three  remaining  arches 
also  fell.  In  1797,  the  Royal  Glasgow  volunteers  in- 
creased their  numbers  to  ten  companies  ;  and  a  second 
battalion  of  500  men  was  formed,  whose  services  were 
accepted  by  government,  and  who  were  placed  under 
the  command  of  officers,  appointed  by  the  lord  lieute- 
nant of  the  county  ;  and  two  troops  of  volunteer  cavalry 
were  also  raised,  for  additional  security.  In  August, 
1822,  when  George  IV.  visited  Scotland,  the  lord  pro- 
vost and  magistrates,  with  the  corporation  and  depu- 
tations from  the  merchants  and  trades'  houses,  went  in 
public  procession  to  Edinburgh,  and  presented  loyal 
addresses  to  His  Majesty.  In  1S3C2,  the  cholera  raged  in 
the  city,  with  great  violence,  from  the  12th  of  February 
till  the  11th  of  November,  during  which  period  there 
were  620S  patients,  of  whom  3005  died. 

Description  or  the  City. 

The  city  is  built,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river  Clyde, 
which,  in  this  part  of  its  course,  flows  nearly  from  east 
to  west,  through  a  level  tract  of  fertile  land,  abounding 
with  mineral  wealth.  From  the  river,  the  ground  has, 
at  some  distance  from  the  shore,  a  gradual  ascent  for 
nearly  half  a  mile,  terminating  in  a  ridge  of  considerable 
elevation,  on  the  summit  and  declivities  of  which,  to- 
wards the  north-east,  the  more  ancient  part  of  the  town 
is  chiefly  situated.  Two  extensive  and  spacious  lines  of 
street  pass  through  the  whole  of  the  city,  intersecting 
each  other  at  the  Cross.  Of  these,  the  principal  line, 
consisting  of  the  Gallowgate,  Trongate,  and  Argyll 
streets,  reaches  for  something  more  than  a  mile  and  a 
half,  in  a  direction  from  east  to  west,  and  is  about 
eighty  three  feet  in  average  breadth  ;  and  the  other,  in- 
tersecting the  city  from  north  to  south,  and  comprising 
the  High-street  and  the  Saltmarket- street,  is  above 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  about  fifty-four 
feet  wide.  Parallel  with  the  former  of  the  two  great 
lines,  are  Bell,  Wilson,  Ingram,  Cochrane,  George,  Duke, 

3  Q2 


GLAS 


G  L  A  S 


and  Clyde  streets  ;  entering  which,  at  right  angles,  are 
King,  Candleriggs,  Brunswick,  Hutcheson,  Stockwell, 
Dunlop,  Glassford,  Miller,  Queen,  Buchanan,  Jamaica, 
and  Maxwell  streets.  Near  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  Saltmarket-street  is  Bridgegate-street,  diverging  ob- 
liquely to  the  south-west,  and  once  forming  the  principal 
avenue  from  the  old  bridge  into  the  city ;  and  south  of 
Argyll  street  are  many  streets  leading  to  Clyde-street 
and  the  quays  at  Broomielaw.  To  the  north-east  of 
George  and  Duke  streets,  and  almost  in  a  line  with  each 
other,  are  Rotten -row  and  Drygate-street,  of  which  the 
latter  was  the  chief  street  of  the  ancient  town.  North 
of  High-street,  on  a  triangular  plot  of  ground  formerly 
the  site  of  the  episcopal  palace,  is  the  Royal  Infirmary, 
nearly  opposite  to  which,  on  the  west,  was  the  hospital 
of  St.  Nicholas  ;  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Molendinar 
rivulet,  to  the  east,  is  the  venerable  cathedral.  To  the 
east  of  the  Saltmarket-street  is  St.  Andrew's-street, 
conducting  into  St.  Andrew's-square,  a  handsome  range 
of  buildings,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  the  church  dedi-. 
cated  to  that  saint  ;  and  still  further  to  the  east  is  Ham- 
ilton-street. South  of  Argyll-street  is  St.  Enoch's- 
square,  on  the  south  side  of  which  is  the  church  of  St. 
Enoch,  and  on  the  east  Surgeon's  Hall ;  and  to  the 
north-west  of  the  same  street  is  St.  George's,  the  most 
spacious  square  of  the  city,  and  in  which  the  houses  are 
large  and  of  elegant  appearance.  In  the  last-named 
square  are,  a  bronze  statue  of  Sir  John  Moore,  a  native 
of  Glasgow,  erected  at  a  cost  of  £4000  ;  a  statue,  by 
Chantrey,  of  the  great  James  Watt ;  and  a  Doric  column 
to  the  memory  of  Sir  Walter  Scott.  There  are  some 
remains  of  ancient  mansions,  identified  with  many  events 
of  importance  in  Scottish  history,  and  of  those  which 
are  still  entire  the  principal  is  the  house  near  the 
northern  extremity  of  High-street,  in  which  Lord  Darn- 
ley,  the  husband  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  resided  dur- 
ing his  illness.  Near  the  end  of  Bridgegate-street,  till 
lately  stood  Silver-Craigs  House,  where  Oliver  Crom- 
well took  up  his  abode,  and  held  his  levees,  after  the 
battle  of  Dunbar. 

As  viewed  from  the  Cross,  the  city  has  a  striking 
character  of  magnificence  and  grandeur,  combining 
views  of  the  Trongate,  Argyll,  and  Gallowgate  streets  ; 
the  Tontine-buildings,  in  front  of  which  is  an  equestrian 
statue,  in  bronze,  of  King  William  III.,  presented  by 
James  Macrae,  Esq.,  in  1735;  and  part  of  the  High- 
street,  on  the  east  side  of  which  are  situated  the  stately 
edifice  of  the  university,  and  the  Hunterian  Museum, 
an  elegant  structure  in  the  Roman  style  of  architec- 
ture. The  houses  are  spacious  and  handsome,  built  of 
freestone,  and  roofed  with  slate ;  and  those  in  the 
streets  diverging  from  the  Cross  were  once,  for  some 
length,  embellished  with  piazzas  of  the  Doric  order.  Num- 
bers of  the  houses  consist  of  several  tenements  under 
the  same  roof,  called  flats,  each  of  which  is  inhabited  by 
a  separate  family ;  those  at  Blythswood  are  mostly 
constructed  upon  a  plan  adapted  for  one  family  only.  The 
streets  are  all  well  paved,  the  carriage-ways  with  whin- 
stone,  and  the  foot-paths  with  flags.  The  city  is  lighted 
with  gas,  partly  from  works  erected  by  a  company 
incorporated  by  act  of  parliament  in  1817,  and  whose 
capital,  originally  £40,000,  has  been  augmented  to 
£150,000.  The  works,  which  are  upon  a  very  extensive 
scale,  occupy  an  area  125  yards  in  length,  and  nearly 
of  equal  breadth  ;  and  connected  with  them  are  several 
484 


subsidiary  establishments  in  different  parts  of  the  town. 
The  gas  is  purified  with  lime,  and  afterwards  with  a 
solution  of  sulphate  of  iron,  and  is  conducted  to  the 
houses  of  the  inhabitants  by  cast-iron  pipes,  laid  under 
the  foot-paths  on  both  sides  of  the  street :  the  aggre- 
gate length  of  the  pipes  is  110  miles;  and  in  the  pro- 
duction of  the  gas  requisite,  not  less  than  9000  tons  of 
coal  are  annually  consumed.  In  1843  a  second  gas 
company  was  formed,  whose  works  are  likewise  upon 
a  very  large  scale  indeed.  The  inhabitants  are  at 
present  furnished  with  water  by  the  united  Glas- 
gow and  Cranston-Hill  Water  Companies,  of  which  the 
former  was  incorporated  in  1806,  and  the  latter  in 
1  SOS  :  the  works  were  originally  constructed  at  an  ex- 
pense of  £320,000,  and  have  been  since  considerably 
enlarged.  Previously  to  its  distribution  to  the  houses, 
the  water  is  made  to  pass  through  a  natural  filter  of 
sand  ;  and  it  is  thence  conveyed  by  pipes,  laid  under 
the  carriage-way  of  the  streets.  A  company  called  the 
Gravitation  Water  Company,  however,  propose  to  carry 
the  water  of  the  Avon,  the  Giel,  and  the  Kype  to  the 
city,  from  the  south,  for  its  more  abundant  supply,  at  an 
expense  calculated  at  about  half  a  million  sterling  ;  the 
survey  has  already  been  completed  under  Mr.  Beardmore, 
an  eminent  engineer,  and  a  bill  will  be  immediately 
introduced  into  parliament  to  sanction  the  undertaking. 
The  water  of  these  streams  is  of  excellent  quality;  and 
the  reservoir  it  is  proposed  to  construct,  covering  an 
extent  of  about  800  acres,  will  add  a  new  feature  to  the 
scenery  of  the  district. 

The  public  green,  a  beautiful  and  important  appen- 
dage to  the  city,  to  which  it  is  conjectured  to  have  im- 
parted its  name,  is  situated  to  the  south-east,  on  the 
bank  of  the  Clyde,  and  comprises  about  136  acres.  It 
has  been  greatly  improved,  at  a  cost  of  more  than 
£50,000,  and  laid  out  as  a  park,  with  pleasure-grounds, 
and  serpentine  gravel-walks  amidst  shrubberies  and 
plantations  embellished  with  stately  timber.  The  whole 
forms  a  delightful  promenade  for  the  inhabitants ;  and 
there  is  a  carriage  drive,  two  miles  and  a  half  in  extent, 
through  a  rich  variety  of  beautiful  scenery,  and  com- 
manding numerous  extensive  and  interesting  views  of 
the  river,  the  city,  with  its  cathedral  and  lofty  spires, 
the  suburbs,  the  adjacent  hills,  and  many  other  pleasing 
features.  At  the  western  end  of  the  High-green  is  a 
handsome  obelisk,  erected  by  subscription  of  the  citi- 
zens, at  an  expense  of  £2075,  in  honour  of  Lord  Nelson  ; 
the  first  stone  was  laid  on  the  1st  of  August,  1S06,  the 
anniversary  of  the  battle  of  the  Nile.  On  the  margin 
of  the  river,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  green,  is  a 
lodge  belonging  to  the  Royal  Humane  Society,  replete 
with  all  the  requisite  apparatus  for  the  restoration  of 
suspended  animation  from  drowning,  and  for  the  right 
application  of  which  officers  are  in  constant  attendance. 
The  suburbs  are  extensive,  and  several  of  modern  ap- 
pearance :  the  ancient  Gorbals,  now  a  burgh  of  barony, 
is  situated  upon  the  south  of  the  Clyde,  communicating 
with  the  city  by  the  old  bridge.  On  the  same  side  of 
the  river,  to  the  west,  are  Hutchesonton  and  Tradeston  ; 
the  former  connected  with  the  city  by  a  stone  bridge  of 
five  arches,  erected  in  1834,  at  an  expense  of  £22,440; 
and  the  latter  by  the  Glasgow  bridge,  a  handsome  struc- 
ture of  granite,  of  seven  arches,  500  feet  long  and  fifty 
feet  wide  within  the  parapets,  forming  the  chief  entrance 
to  the  city  from   the  south,   and   completed  by  the  late 


GLAS 


G  L  A  S 


Mr.  Telford,  in  1836,  at  a  cost  of  £34,427.  North  of 
the  Clyde  are  Bridgeton,  Calton,  Grahamston,  Finnies- 
ton,  and  Anderston,  all  of  which  are  described  under 
their  respective  heads,  as  are  also  Gorbals,  Hutcheson- 
ton,  &c.  Near  the  east  end  of  the  Gallowgate-street  are 
the  Infantry  Barracks,  erected  ill  1795,  and  inclosing  a 
quadrangular  area  of  four  acres,  of  which  three  sides 
are  occupied  with  buildings,  and  the  fourth  by  an  iron 
palisade  ;  the  central  range  comprises  the  officers 
apartments  and  mess-room,  and  the  wings  seventy-two 
apartments,  each  adapted  for  fourteen  men.  The  area 
affords  an  extensive  ground  for  parade,  and  contains  a 
guard  house,  magazine,  infirmary,  and  other  offices. 
The  City  Guard-house,  formerly  in  Candleriggs-street, 
but  rebuilt  on  the  east  side  of  Montrose-street,  was  a  neat 
edifice  fronted  with  a  piazza  ;  and  the  interior  was  well 
arranged  :  its  site,  however,  is  now  occupied  by  other 
buildings. 

Literary  and  Scientific  Institutions,  and  Places 
of  Amusement. 

The  first  circulating  library  was  established  by  Mr. 
John  Smith,  in  1753,  and  at  present  contains  about 
'20,000  volumes  :  another,  founded  in  1807,  and  pur- 
chased in  IS  11  by  Messrs.  Potter  and  Company,  has  a 
collection  of  nearly  18,000  volumes.  The  public  sub- 
scription library  was  instituted  in  1791,  by  Walter  Stir- 
ling, Esq.,  who  bequeathed  his  mansion  in  Miller-street, 
with  the  whole  of  his  library,  his  share  in  the  Tontine- 
buildings,  and  £1000  in  money,  in  trust  to  the  lord  pro- 
vost, and  others  chosen  from  the  town  council,  the 
merchants'  house,  the  presbytery  of  Glasgow,  and  the 
faculty  of  surgeons  and  physicians,  for  its  establish- 
ment. Though  originally  intended  for  the  gratuitous 
use  of  the  citizens,  it  is  supported,  and  has  been  greatly 
extended,  by  subscription  gradually  augmented  from 
three  to  ten  guineas,  paid  by  each  member  on  admis- 
sion, and  which  entitles  him  to  the  benefit  of  it  for  life. 
It  contains  more  than  6000  volumes,  which  are  kept  in 
the  hall  of  Hutcheson's  hospital.  The  Glasgow  public 
library  was  established  in  1804,  by  a  society  of  gentle- 
men, who  placed  it  under  the  management  of  a  com- 
mittee, nine  curators,  a  treasurer,  secretary,  and  libra- 
rian ;  it  has  a  collection  of  4000  volumes,  and  is  sup- 
ported by  an  annual  subscription  of  ten  shillings,  and 
a  payment  of  twelve  shillings  on  entrance.  A  theolo- 
gical library,  purchased  at  the  death  of  the  Rev.  James 
Robinson,  in  1814,  for  the  use  of  the  public,  by  a  society 
of  clergymen  of  the  Associate  Synod,  and  subsequently 
enlarged,  is  supported  by  a  proprietary  of  '200  share- 
holders, of  £5  each,  and  a  subscription  of  five  shillings, 
and  is  open  to  strangers  of  all  denominations,  on  pay- 
ment of  half  a  guinea  annually  ;  it  contains  about  3000 
volumes.  There  are  also  numerous  book  societies  in 
the  town. 

The  Lyceum,  in  South  Albion-street,  is  a  handsome 
building  elegantly  fitted  up,  comprising  a  saloon  fifty- 
four  feet  in  length  and  thirty-three  feet  in  width, 
adjoining  which  was  till  lately  a  well-furnished  library, 
thirty-three  feet  long  and  twenty-two  wide ;  it  was 
amply  supplied  with  newspapers  and  periodicals,  and 
maintained  by  subscriptions  of  two  guineas  per  annum. 
The  Literary  and  Commercial  Society,  believed  to  have 
been  founded  by  Dr.  Adam  Smith,  meets  every  Thurs- 
485 


day,  from  the  middle  of  November  till  the  end  of  April. 
Surgeons'  Hall,  on  the  east  side  of  St.  Enoch's-square,  is 
a  good  building  of  the  Ionic  order,  erected  in  1791,  for 
the  use  of  the  faculty  of  surgeons  and  physicians  :  the 
front  is  decorated  with  a  range  of  Ionic  pilasters,  sup- 
porting an  entablature  and  cornice,  surmounted  with  an 
attic  and  open  balustrade.  The  interior  contains  the 
hall  for  the  faculty,  a  spacious  room,  adorned  with  a 
painting  of  Hygeia,  the  goddess  of  health,  and  other 
allegorical  devices  ;  a  library  ;  committee-rooms  ;  and 
various  offices.  In  the  lobby  are  several  old  portraits, 
among  which  are  those  of  Galen,  Hippocrates,  and 
other  fathers  of  medicine  ;  and  on  the  right  hand,  is 
the  entrance  into  the  library.  Two  societies  hold 
their  meetings  here,  namely,  the  Glasgow  Medical 
Society  and  the  Medico-Chirurgical  Society,  the  for- 
mer of  which  meets  on  the  first  and  third  Tuesdays 
of  every  month  from  October  to  May  inclusive.  The 
Philosophical  Society,  established  in  1802,  for  the  diffu- 
sion of  knowledge  by  reading  essays  on  philosophical 
subjects,  and  exhibiting  models  for  the  improvement  of 
machinery,  is  under  the  controul  of  a  president,  vice- 
president,  and  council  of  twelve,  with  a  treasurer, 
secretary,  and  librarian  ;  and  is  supported  by  subscrip- 
tions of  fifteen  shillings  annually,  and  a  payment  of 
one  guinea  on  admission.  The  Astronomical  Society, 
now  extinct,  was  instituted  in  1808,  by  a  number  of 
gentlemen  incorporated,  under  the  sanction  of  the  town 
council,  for  the  promotion  of  astronomical  science,  and 
was  supported  by  a  proprietary  consisting  of  250  share- 
holders, of  £20  each.  Its  observatory  was  a  handsome 
and  well-arranged  edifice,  situated  on  Garnet-hill,  about 
a  mile  to  the  north-west  of  the  Cross,  and  commanding 
an  extensive  prospect.  The  building  was  in  the  Egyptian 
style  of  architecture,  from  a  design  by  Mr.  Webster,  of 
London,  and  comprised  three  distinct  compartments,  of 
which  the  principal,  constituting  the  scientific  obser- 
vatory, was  crowned  with  a  revolving  cupola  ;  the  popular 
observatory  contained  a  great  variety  of  instruments  and 
books  for  the  use  of  the  subscribers,  and  the  western 
compartment  was  fitted  up  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
observer.  In  the  scientific  observatory  were  three  mas- 
sive pedestals  of  stone,  on  one  of  which  was  placed  a  side- 
real clock,  and  on  another,  twenty  feet  high,  were  an 
azimuth,  and  an  altitude  instrument,  which,  from  their 
elevation,  were  within  the  revolving  cupola,  and  capable 
of  being  fitted  up  with  an  equatorial  circle  :  on  the  third 
pedestal  was  a  large  mural  circle  by  Troughton.  On  the 
terrace  in  front  of  the  popular  observatory  was  a  tele- 
scope, on  Herschel's  construction,  ten  feet  long,  sheltered 
from  the  wind  by  the  projection  of  the  wings  of  the 
building  ;  and  on  the  roof  was  a  telescope,  fourteen  feet 
long,  erected  by  Herschel  himself.  The  Mechanics'  Insti- 
tution was  founded  in  1823,  for  the  promotion  of  the 
arts  and  sciences,  by  the  delivery  of  lectures  in  natural 
philosophy,  chemistry,  and  other  subjects  ;  and  in  1831, 
a  commodious  building  was  erected  for  that  purpose,  in 
Hanover-street,  on  the  pediment  of  which  is  a  colossal 
statue  of  James  Watt.  The  edifice  contains  apartments 
for  the  models  and  apparatus,  a  theatre  for  the  lectures, 
and  a  library  consisting  of  more  than  3000  volumes  : 
the  funds  arise  from  annual  subscriptions  of  the  students, 
of  whom  the  average  number  is  about  500.  The  Mail- 
land  Club,  similar  in  its  design  to  the  Bannatyne  Club 
of  Edinburgh  and  the  Roxburghe  Club  of  London,  has 


GL  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


been  established  within  the  last  few  years,  for  the 
reprinting  of  scarce  and  valuable  books,  and  the  print- 
ing of  curious  and  important  manuscripts,  illustrative 
of  the  history,  literature,  and  antiquities  of  Scotland. 

The  Assembly  Rooms,  in  Ingram-street,  were  erected  in 
1796,  after  a  design  by  Messrs.  Adam,  by  Tontine  sub- 
scription, in  shares  of  £20  each.  The  building,  which 
is  an  elegant  specimen  of  the  Ionic  order,  rising  from  a 
rusticated  basement,  is  divided  in  front,  into  three  com- 
partments, by  two  boldly-projecting  central  portions, 
between  which  is  the  central  window,  and  two  less 
prominent  projections  at  the  extremities ;  and  is 
embellished  with  pillars  supporting  an  entablature 
and  cornice,  surmounted  by  an  open  balustrade.  The 
interior  contains  the  assembly  room,  eighty  feet  long, 
thirty -five  feet  wide,  and  twenty-seven  feet  high,  ele- 
gantly fitted  up,  and  brilliantly  lighted  ;  a  card  room  ; 
retiring  and  supper  rooms  of  similar  character ;  and 
various  other  apartments.  Theatrical  performances,  pre- 
viously to  the  erection  of  a  theatre,  took  place,  under 
the  Edinburgh  company,  in  a  temporary  booth  near  the 
bishop's  palace  :  in  1764,  a  regular  theatre  was  built, 
and  opened  by  Mr.  Bellamy;  but,  on  the  first  night, 
some  disorderly  persons  set  fire  to  the  scenery  and 
machinery.  The  stage  was  refitted  ;  but  the  subsequent 
performances  never  received  any  adequate  patronage, 
and  in  1782  the  structure  was  made  a  storehouse.  In 
1785,  a  theatre  which  had  been  erected  in  Dunlop-street 
was  opened  by  Mrs.  Siddons,  Mrs.  Jordan,  and  others  ; 
and  the  taste  for  the  drama  began  to  increase,  which, 
in  1805,  led  to  the  erection  of  a  splendid  building  in 
Queen-street,  at  an  expense  of  £18,500  raised  by  sub- 
scription. This  edifice,  however,  was  burnt  down  in 
1829;  and  the  former  building  in  Dunlop-street  was 
consequently  enlarged  and  embellished  by  Mr.  Alexan- 
der, and  continued  to  be  used  until  1S39,  when  it  was 
pulled  down,  and  a  larger  and  more  elegant  structure 
erected  in  its  stead.  The  Circus,  to  the  west  of  Jamaica- 
street,  long  abandoned,  was  capable  of  holding  about  1000 
persons,  and  was  fitted  up  for  the  performance  of  pan- 
tomimes and  equestrian  feats,  for  which  latter  purpose 
there  was  a  circular  area  between  the  pit  and  the  or- 
chestra. The  old  Botanic  Gardens  originated  in  the  want 
of  such  an  appendage  to  the  university,  and  were  formed 
in  1830,  by  a  proprietary  of  £10  shareholders,  incor- 
porated under  the  designation  of  the  Botanic  Garden 
Institution,  and  who  purchased  for  that  purpose  eight 
acres  of  ground  near  the  reservoir  of  the  Cranston-hill 
water- works.  In  consideration  of  the  university  having 
bought  shares  to  the  amount  of  £2000,  their  professor  of 
botany  was  invested  with  the  exclusive  privilege  of  de- 
livering lectures  in  the  hall  of  the  institution,  a  handsome 
and  well-arranged  building,  adjoining  the  gardens.  This 
land  near  the  reservoir,  however,  has  been  sold,  and  a 
new  garden  of  twenty-one  acres  formed  on  the  banks  of 
the  Kelvin ,  two  miles  off.  The  stock  of  the  society  ex- 
ceeds £10,000;  and  the  gardens,  which  contain  a  very 
extensive  assortment  of  rare  and  valuable  plants  from 
almost  every  part  of  the  world,  are  under  the  direction 
of  a  president,  vice-president,  and  a  committee  of  nine 
of  the  proprietors.  The  Public  Baths  were  erected  in 
1800,  by  Mr.  William  Harley,  in  Bath-street,  at  the 
eastern  extremity  of  Nile-street  ;  they  comprise  hot  and 
cold  baths,  with  every  requisite.  The  Victoria  Baths  are 
of  recent  erection,  and  very  well  conducted. 
486 


Trade  and  Commerce. 

The  first  branch  of  trade  pursued  by  the  inhabitants 
was  the  curing  of  salmon  taken  in  the  Clyde,  of  which 
they  exported  great  quantities  to  France  and  Holland, 
receiving,  in  return,  brandy,  wines,  and  salt ;  and 
towards  the  commencement  of  the  17th  century,  they 
embarked  largely  in  the  herring-fisheries,  in  which,  also, 
they  carried  on  a  very  extensive  trade,  in  vessels  of 
their  own,  and  for  the  protection  of  which,  in  the  reign 
of  Charles  II.,  they  fitted  out  a  privateer  of  considerable 
force.  About  this  time,  likewise,  they  imported  much 
iron  from  the  Baltic  ;  and  after  the  union  of  the  two 
kingdoms,  which  opened  to  them  the  markets  of  America 
and  the  West  Indies,  they  appear  to  have  imbibed  such 
a  spirit  of  commercial  enterprize  as  laid  the  foundation 
of  their  future  wealth.  They  exported,  in  English  ves- 
sels, various  goods  for  the  supply  of  those  colonies,  from 
which  they  obtained  in  return  large  quantities  of  tobacco. 
The  increasing  success  with  which  this  traffic  was  car- 
ried on,  soon  enabled  them  to  build  and  maintain  vessels 
of  their  own;  and  in  1718,  the  first  of  these  ships  left 
Glasgow  for  America.  So  very  great,  indeed,  was  the 
prosperity  attending  their  colonial  relations,  that  it  at 
length  excited  the  jealousy  of  the  English  merchants  ; 
and  after  numerous  vexatious  obstructions,  opposed  by 
those  of  Bristol,  London,  Whitehaven,  and  other  rival 
ports,  the  trade  gradually  diminished,  and  in  1735 
almost  declined.  It,  however,  revived  soon  after,  though 
not  to  its  former  extent,  and  continued  by  degrees,  and 
slowly,  to  augment,  till  the  breaking  out  of  the  American 
war,  which  involved  many  of  the  principal  merchants  in 
ruinous  losses.  But  the  spirit  of  enterprise  which  had 
been  so  powerfully  excited,  though  damped  by  these  dis- 
asters, was  not  extinguished :  the  people  of  Glasgow 
found  other  sources  of  trade  in  the  West  Indies,  and 
on  the  continent  of  Europe  ;  and  in  1790;  there  were 
476  ships,  of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  46,581  tons,  em- 
ployed in  the  business  of  the  Clyde. 

The  subsequent  introduction  of  manufactures  af- 
forded to  the  inhabitants  a  permanent  source  of  in- 
creasing prosperity.  Of  these,  the  earliest  appear  to 
have  been  those  of  plaiding,  soap,  ropes,  and  the  re- 
fining of  sugar,  of  which,  however,  the  first  only  was 
carried  to  any  considerable  extent  :  the  tanning  of 
leather  has  been  pursued  from  an  early  date ;  and  the 
Glasgow  Tan-work  Company,  founded  soon  after  the 
union,  had  very  extensive  premises  at  the  head  of  the 
Gallowgate.  Breweries,  too,  on  a  large  scale,  were  esta- 
blished by  several  companies  at  a  distant  period.  The 
manufacture  of  linen,  lawns,  cambrics,  and  similar  arti- 
cles, was  begun  about  1725,  and  continued  for  some 
time  to  be  the  staple  trade  of  the  city  and  neighbour- 
hood ;  and  though  almost  superseded  by  the  cotton 
manufacture,  it  is  still  pursued  to  a  tolerable  extent. 
The  weaving  of  inkle  was  established  in  1732,  by  Mr. 
Alexander  Harvie,  of  Glasgow,  who,  at  imminent  risk, 
brought  over  the  first  loom  for  that  purpose  from  Haer- 
lem,  together  with  some  workmen,  and  opened  a  factory 
here  :  this  branch  of  manufacture  was  subsequently  in- 
troduced into  Manchester  and  other  towns  in  England, 
but  it  is  yet  carried  on  here  upon  a  large  scale.  The 
manufacture  of  delft-ware,  in  imitation  of  the  Dutch, 
in  which  many  improvements  have  been  made,  and  of 
the  various  kinds  of  pottery  and  earthenware,  is  also 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


considerable  ;  and  the  snuff  manufacture,  which,  while 
the  tobacco  trade  with  America  lasted,  was  very  exten- 
sive, is  still  successfully  prosecuted.  The  founding  of 
types,  and  the  art  of  printing,  have  been  brought  to 
great  perfection  ;  and  numerous  handsome  editions  of 
the  Greek  and  Roman  classics,  and  other  standard 
works,  have  issued  from  the  university  press  and  others. 
The  manufacture  of  green  and  flint  glass  ware  has  like- 
wise made  considerable  progress ;  and  large  public  ale 
and  porter  breweries  have  been  established. 

The  cotton  manufacture,  which  was  introduced  at 
an  early  period,  and  is  now  become  the  staple  trade  of 
the  town  and  its  vicinity,  has  been  extremely  rapid  in 
its  advance.  Several  large  factories,  bleaching-grounds, 
and  printfields,  for  which  the  situation  of  Glasgow,  the 
purity  of  the  water  of  the  Clyde,  and  the  abundant 
supply  of  coal  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  ren- 
dered the  place  highly  favourable,  were  soon  established; 
and  in  1791,  not  less  than  15,000  looms,  each  employ- 
ing nine  persons,  were  in  active  operation.  The  intro- 
duction of  this  manufacture  and  the  several  trades  con- 
nected with  it,  gave  rise  to  the  invention  of  machinery 
of  all  kinds  ;  and  the  improvements  in  the  construction 
of  the  steam-engine,  which  appear  to  have  been  carried 
to  their  height  under  the  direction  of  the  celebrated  Mr. 
Watt,  of  this  place,  and  subsequently  of  the  Soho  works, 
near  Birmingham,  have  increased  this  important  branch 
of  trade  to  an  extent  almost  incredible.  There  are  at 
present,  in  Glasgow  and  its  suburbs,  as  many  as  fifty 
cotton-mills,  in  which  are  more  than  500,000  spindles  ; 
two  of  these  are  fire-proof,  and  the  cost  of  their  erection 
and  machinery  exceeded  £32,000  each.  The  number  of 
looms  is  47,127,  of  which  15,127  are  steam-looms, 
18,537  hand-looms  in  the  city  aud  suburbs,  and  the 
rest  hand-looms  in  other  parts  for  the  Glasgow  manu- 
facturers. 

The  printing  of  calico,  in  which  considerable  improve- 
ment has  been  made  by  the  use  of  the  cylinder,  is  car- 
ried on  extensively ;  and  the  art  of  dyeing  Turkey  red, 
which  was  introduced  about  the  beginning  of  the  pre- 
sent century  by  M.  Papillon,  in  conjunction  with  Mr. 
George  Macintosh,  who  first  erected  works  for  that 
purpose,  has  been  practised  with  increased  advantage. 
The  printing  of  Bandana  hankerchiefs,  begun  by  Messrs. 
Monteith  and  Company,  has  been  also  brought  to  great 
perfection.  The  weaving  of  Cashmere  shawls  has  been 
much  improved  by  Messrs.  Houldsworth  and  Sons,  of 
this  place,  who,  having  purchased  from  Captain  Coch- 
rane his  patent  for  the  spinning  of  Cashmere  wool,  the 
secret  of  which  had  been  discovered  in  France,  esta- 
blished a  factory  here  for  that  purpose  with  complete 
success.  The  attention  of  this  firm  has  likewise  been 
directed  to  the  art  of  spinning  Merino  yarn,  also  dis- 
covered by  the  captain,  and  for  which  the  Board  of  Arts 
awarded  him  a  premium  of  £300 ;  and  the  merinos 
produced  in  the  factory  of  Messrs.  Houldsworth  are 
equal  in  softness  and  quality  to  those  of  France.  The 
woollen  manufacture  is  confined  chiefly  to  the  coarser 
kinds  of  cloth,  and  carpets  aud  blankets,  made  from 
native  wool,  which  is  not  adapted  for  articles  of  finer 
texture.  The  manufacture  of  steam-engines,  and  of  the 
various  kinds  of  machinery,  is  carried  on  to  a  very  great 
extent :  there  are  not  less  than  fourteen  establishments, 
in  one  of  which,  alone,  very  nearly  1000  persons  are 
constantly  employed.  The  number  of  steam-engines  in 
48? 


the  different  factories  of  the  city  and  suburbs  is  esti- 
mated at  more  than  350,  including  those  in  the  col- 
lieries and  similar  works. 

From  the  peculiarly  advantageous  situation  of  Glas- 
gow on  the  Clyde,  and  in  a  spacious  district  abounding 
with  coal  and  ironstone  of  rich  quality,  the  iron  ma- 
nufacture has  naturally  become  an  important  source 
of  wealth.  In  the  works  for  this  purpose,  material 
improvement  has  been  effected,  both  in  the  quality  of 
the  iron  and  in  the  facility  of  obtaining  it,  by  the  use 
of  the  patent  "  hot  blast,"  invented  by  Mr.  Neilson,  in 
1S24,  and  which,  by  conveying  a  stream  of  hot  air  to 
the  blast-furnaces,  has  been  found  to  increase  the  in- 
tensity of  heat  in  the  fires  to  an  extraordinary  degree. 
And  not  only  is  a  greater  quantity  of  iron  of  better  quality 
thus  produced,  in  less  time ;  but  also,  by  allowing  of 
the  substitution  of  coal  in  the  place  of  coke,  previously 
used,  the  amount  of  fuel  has  been  reduced  to  three- 
sevenths  of  what  was  necessary  by  the  cold  blast  pro- 
cess. Nor  is  it  in  the  making  of  iron  only  that  this 
invention  has  proved  profitable  :  in  the  foundry  and 
in  the  forge,  the  advantage  of  its  adoption  is  likewise 
strikingly  apparent.  There  are  now  nine  iron-foundries 
in  the  city  and  suburbs ;  and  in  the  Govan  works,  which 
consist  of  five  furnaces,  about  26,000  tons  of  iron  are 
produced  annually,  on  an  average. 

Extensive  chemical-works  were  established  in  the 
parish  of  St.  Rollox,  in  1300,  by  Messrs.  Tennant,  Knox, 
and  Company,  for  the  manufacture  of  sulphuric  acid, 
chloride  of  lime,  soda,  and  other  articles.  The  build- 
ings of  this  concern  occupy  an  area  of  nearly  28,000 
square  yards,  and  contain  more  than  100  furnaces,  re- 
torts, and  other  apparatus  ;  the  vessels  of  platina  alone 
are  valued  at  £7000,  and  in  the  various  processes  600 
tons  of  coal  are  consumed  weekly.  The  manufacture 
of  acetate  of  lead,  previously  imported  from  Holland, 
and  of  which  large  quantities  are  used  in  calico  print- 
ing, was  established  here  in  1786,  by  Mr.  Charles  Mac- 
intosh, and  carried  on  to  such  an  extent  that  great 
quantities  of  it  were  exported  to  the  very  place  from 
which  the  mode  of  preparing  it  had  been  originally 
obtained.  Mr.  Macintosh  also  effected  many  improve- 
ments in  the  dyeing  of  fancy  muslins,  and  the  prepara- 
tion of  chloride  of  lime,  in  powder,  for  the  purpose  of 
bleaching;  and  in  1808,  he  established  very  extensive 
alum-works  in  the  neighbourhood ;  commenced  the 
manufacture  of  Prussian  blue,  and  the  triple  prussiate 
of  potash  as  a  substitute  for  indigo ;  and  introduced  the 
process  of  rendering  silk  and  woollen  stuffs  waterproof 
by  the  insertion,  between  two  surfaces,  of  a  layer  of 
caoutchouc,  made  liquid  by  solution  in  naphtha.  The 
same  gentleman  likewise  invented  a  process  for  convert- 
ing iron  into  steel,  by  inclosing  it  in  air-tight  vessels, 
and  subjecting  it  to  the  action  of  carburetted  hydrogen 
gas  ;  for  all  which  inventions  and  discoveries  he  was, 
in  1823,  elected  a  fellow  of  the  Royal  Society  of  London. 
The  distillery  of  whisky  is  comparatively  of  recent  in- 
troduction ;  the  first  establishment  of  any  magnitude 
was  in  1736,  and  since  that  period  no  very  great  in- 
crease has  taken  place. 

The  trade  of  the  port  is  principally  with  America, 
the  East  and  West  Indies,  and  the  continent  of  Europe; 
and  since  the  dissolution  of  the  East  India  Company's 
charter,  the  traffic  has  been  extended  to  China.  In 
the  year  1814,  the  quantity  of  sugar  imported   into  the 


G  L  A  S 


GL  A  S 


ports  of  the  Clyde  from  the  West  Indies,  was  540, 19S 
cwt.,  of  rum  1,251,092  gallons,  and  of  cotton  wool 
6,530,177  lb. ;  exclusively  of  large  quantities  of  grain, 
hemp,  tallow,  and  timber  from  the  Baltic.  The  ex- 
ports, chiefly  manufactured  goods,  during  the  same 
year,  amounted  to  £4,016,181.  The  number  of  ships 
that  entered  inwards  was  448,  of  the  aggregate  bur- 
then of  72,219  tons  ;  and  the  number  that  cleared  out- 
wards, during  that  year,  was  592,  of  94,350  tons.  A 
very  considerable  trade  is  carried  on  at  Glasgow  in 
timber,  in  which  the  firm  of  Messrs.  Pollock,  Gilmour, 
and  Company  employ  thirty-nine  large  ships,  of  which 
the  aggregate  burthen  is  nearly  27,000  tons,  and  which 
occupy  more  than  1300  seamen  ;  they  generally  make 
from  two  to  three  voyages  annually,  but  are  in  part 
used  in  importing  other  kinds  of  merchandize.  The 
first  ship  engaged  in  the  China  free  trade  was  consigned 
to  Mr.  William  Mathieson,  of  this  city;  and  her  cargo 
of  teas  was  disposed  of  in  the  sale-room  of  the  Royal 
Exchange,  at  a  remunerating  price,  on  the  14th  of 
November,  1834.  In  1840,  the  number  of  vessels  that 
entered  the  port  of  Glasgow  was  16,486,  of  the  aggre- 
gate burthen  of  1,166,329  tons:  the  vessels  employed 
in  foreign  trade,  direct  to  Glasgow,  amounted  in  the 
year  1844  to  316,  registering  58,816  tons;  while  the 
vessels  that  cleared  out  for  foreign  ports  amounted 
to  442,  registering  83,621  tons.  In  1812,  the  cus- 
toms yielded  only  £3124;  in  1814,  £7420;  in  1817, 
£8290;  in  1820,  £1 1,000  ;  in  1822,  £16,148  ;  in  1824, 
£29,926;  in  1825,  £41,154;  in  1828,  £74,255;  in 
1833,  £97,042  ;  in  1834,  £166,913  ;  in  1835,  £270  667  ; 
in  1837,  £389,702;  and  in  1844,  £551,851.  From  this 
statement,  some  notion  may  be  gained  as  to  the  great 
and  progressive  advances  of  the  commerce  of  the  city  ; 
but  it  must  be  observed  that  the  increase  is  not  solely 
to  be  attributed  to  an  augmented  trade,  but  partly  to 
the  circumstance  of  numbers  of  ships  now  being  able, 
from  a  greater  depth  of  water,  to  proceed  to  the  Broomie- 
law,  at  Glasgow,  and  pay  duties  there,  instead  of  at 
Greenock,  on  the  Frith  of  Clyde.  The  present  custom- 
house was  built  in  1839,  at  a  cost  of  £13,000. 

The  harbour  at  Broomielaw  has  been  greatly  im- 
proved and  extended,  and,  by  the  deepening  of  the  river, 
has  been  rendered  accessible  to  vessels  of  more  than  700 
tons  ;  the  quay  reaches  for  3360  yards  in  length  on  the 
north,  and  nearly  2260  on  the  south,  side  of  the  river. 
There  are  spacious  warehouses  erected  for  the  reception 
of  merchandize,  with  every  requisite  for  facilitating  the 
trade  of  the  port.  Six  dredging-machines,  with  power- 
ful steam  apparatus  and  two  diving-bells,  are  kept  for 
clearing  the  river  from  obstructions  ;  and  powerful 
cranes  have  been  erected,  one  of  which,  constructed  by 
Messrs.  Claud  Girwood  and  Company,  is  capable  of 
raising  a  weight  of  thirty-two  tons,  while  another,  on 
the  south  side  of  the  river,  made  by  Mr.  Caird,  can 
raise  forty-five  tons  at  a  time.  In  1840,  an  act  was 
passed  for  further  deepening  and  improving  the  Clyde, 
and  enlarging  the  harbour,  and  for  constructing  a 
wet-dock.  The  tonnage  and  harbour  dues  have  pro- 
gressively increased  :  in  1771,  they  amounted  to  £1071  ; 
in  1791,  to  £2145;  in  1804,  to  £4760;  in  1825,  to 
£8480;  in  1826,  to  £16,200;  in  1835,  to  £31,900  ;  and 
in  1840,  to  £46,446.  Since  the  deepening  of  the  Clyde, 
ship-building  has  been  introduced,  and  is  now  carried 
on  with  success ;  yards  for  that  purpose  have  been  con- 
488 


structed,  and  several  vessels  of  considerable  burthen 
have  been  launched  from  the  port,  among  which  was  a 
very  large  steamer  for  the  Mediterranean  trade.  The 
art  of  propelling  vessels  by  steam  appears  to  have 
been  first  brought  into  actual  use  at  this  place,  by  Mr. 
Henry  Bell,  who,  having  constructed  a  steam-engine 
of  thirty-horse  power,  employed  Messrs.  Wood  and 
Company,  of  Port-Glasgow,  to  build  a  boat  for  him, 
which  was  the  first  that  sailed  on  any  navigable  river  in 
Europe.  This  vessel,  which  was  called  the  Comet,  began 
to  ply  on  the  18th  of  January,  1812,  between  Glasgow 
and  Greenock,  performing  the  voyage  at  the  rate  of  five 
miles  per  hour,  which  was  subsequently  increased  to 
seven.  Since  that  time,  steam  navigation  has  been 
much  encouraged  ;  and  some  of  the  Glasgow  boats  have 
now  400-horse  power.  The  number  of  steamers  em- 
ployed at  the  port,  in  a  recent  year,  was  sixty-seven,  of 
which  eighteen  plied  between  this  place  and  the  ports 
of  Liverpool,  Belfast,  Dublin,  and  Londonderry  ;  eleven 
between  Stranraer  and  the  Western  Highlands,  for  goods 
and  passengers  ;  twenty-six  for  passengers  only,  in  the 
river  and  Frith  of  Clyde ;  eight  for  luggage  ;  and  four 
for  towing  vessels.  At  the  present  time  the  number  of 
steamers  is  still  larger ;  the  boats  of  more  recent  con- 
struction are  elegantly  fitted  up  for  passengers,  and 
their  speed  is  greatly  increased. 

Canals  and  Railways. 

The  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal,  already  referred  to,  and 
which,  for  want  of  funds,  had  been  suspended  in  1775, 
was  resumed  in  1784,  when  government  granted  £50,000 
from  the  forfeited  estates,  towards  its  completion,  which 
was  effected  in  1790.  This  important  work  is  nearly 
thirty-five  miles  in  length,  of  which  sixteen  miles  are  on 
the  summit  level,  having  an  elevation  of  156  feet  above 
the  sea  :  the  ascent  to  this  level,  from  the  eastern  sea, 
is  obtained  by  twenty,  and  from  the  western  sea  by 
nineteen,  locks.  The  average  width  of  the  canal  is 
fifty-six  feet  on  the  surface,  and  twenty-eight  at  the 
bed  ;  and  the  average  depth  ten  feet.  By  the  opening 
of  this  line  of  navigation,  the  distance  by  sea  is  dimi- 
nished 800  or  1000  nautical  miles,  and  the  passage 
rendered  vastly  more  safe.  The  canal,  in  its  progress, 
crosses  the  rivers  Luggie  and  Kelvin,  and  is  conveyed 
over  the  latter,  and  the  deep  valley  in  which  it  flows, 
by  a  bridge  of  four  lofty  arches,  erected  at  an  expense 
of  £8509.  It  is  supplied  by  eight  capacious  reservoirs, 
covering  more  than  720  acres  of  ground.  Several  swift 
passage-boats  leave  Port-Dundas,  at  Glasgow,  and  re- 
turn, daily  ;  the  concern  is  in  a  very  flourishing  state, 
aud  in  1844,  59,333  tons  of  goods  were  carried.  During 
the  suspension  of  this  undertaking,  the  city  com- 
pleted a  collateral  cut  to  Hamilton  hill,  about  a  mile 
to  the  north  of  Glasgow,  which  was  subsequently  ex- 
tended to  Port-Dundas,  and  which,  affording  a  more 
ready  communication  than  was  previously  possessed, 
greatly  increased  the  facilities  of  commerce.  The  Monk- 
land  Canal,  begun  in  1770,  and  connecting  the  town 
with  the  collieries  in  the  parishes  of  Old  and  New 
Monkland,  is  about  twelve  miles  in  length,  thirty-five 
feet  wide  at  the  surface,  and  twenty-four  at  its  bed,  and 
about  five  feet  in  average  depth  ;  it  attains  its  summit 
level  at  Blackhill,  and  is  thence  continued  to  Sheepford, 
where  are  two  locks,  by  means  of  which  it  communi- 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


cates  with  the  river  Cakler.  The  Glasgow,  Paisley,  and 
Ardrossan  Canal  was  commenced  in  1807,  and  the  part 
between  Glasgow  and  Johnstone  was  opened  in  1811  : 
the  projected  line,  from  Port-Eglinton  to  the  harbour 
at  Ardrossan,  is  thirty-five  miles  and  three-quarters  ; 
but  nothing  has  been  done  since  the  completion  of  the 
Johnstone  portion,  and  the  distance  does  not,  therefore, 
exceed  eleven  miles.  The  canal  is  thirty  feet  wide  at 
the  surface,  and  eighteen  feet  at  the  bed,  and  the  ave- 
rage depth  four  feet  six  inches  ;  near  Johnstone  it  has 
eight  locks,  and  there  are  numerous  boats  employed  in 
carrying  heavy  goods. 

The  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  Railway,  which  is  more 
particularly  described  under  the  head  of  Edinburgh, 
was  commenced  in  October,  1S38,  and  opened  on  the 
21st  of  February,  1S42.  It  is  forty-six  miles  in  length, 
and,  for  a  considerable  distance  previously  to  its  en- 
tering the  city,  has  its  course  in  a  direction  nearly 
parallel  with  the  Forth  and  Clyde  canal,  passing,  within 
less  than  four  miles  of  the  terminus  at  Glasgow,  over 
the  Monkland  and  Kirkintilloch  railway.  It  forms  a 
curve  of  nearly  half  a  mile  radius  at  Springvale,  to  the 
north  of  the  city,  and,  descending  in  an  inclined  plane, 
proceeds  through  three  tunnels,  of  4/6,  292,  and  272 
yards  in  length,  respectively,  each  of  which  has  a  span 
of  twenty-six  feet  in  width,  and  is  twenty-two  feet  in 
height.  The  gross  expenditure  amounted  to  £1,649,115, 
up  to  July  1844,  when  an  act  was  passed  authorising 
the  company  to  increase  their  capital  stock,  origi- 
nally £900,000,  to  £1,406,250,  and  their  power  of 
borrowing  to  £46S,750,  with  the  view  of  extending  the 
works  at  Edinburgh,  so  as  to  form  a  junction  with  the 
North  British  railway.  The  Glasgow  and  Garnkirk  Rail- 
way at  present  commences  at  St.  Rollox,  near  the  city, 
and  pursues  a  north-eastern  circuitous  course  of  eight 
miles,  till  it  joins  the  Monkland  and  Kirkintilloch  rail- 
way, not  far  from  the  Gargill  colliery,  at  Gartsherrie. 
After  proceeding  by  Milton,  it  curves  through  Robroy- 
ston  Moss,  near  Clay  House  ;  it  intersects  another  moss 
in  the  parish  of  Cadder,  and  passes  by  Whitehill  and 
Gartcloss  to  its  junction.  From  Glasgow  to  Robroy- 
stou  Moss  the  line  has  a  gradual  ascent,  but  for  the 
remainder  of  its  course  it  is  nearly  level,  passing  under 
several  bridges,  and  having  six  level  crossings  with 
protecting  gates.  The  line  is  worked  by  locomotive- 
engines,  of  which  one,  constructed  by  Messrs.  Johnston 
and  Mc  Nab,  of  this  city,  drew  after  it  a  train  of  thirty- 
six  loaded  coal- waggons,  weighing  145  tons,  through 
the  entire  length,  in  one  hour  and  seven  minutes.  The 
whole  was  completed  at  an  expense  of  £107,365,  and 
was  opened  to  the  public  on  the  2nd  of  July,  1831.  The 
depot  at  St.  Rollox  has  booking-offices  and  waiting- 
rooms,  with  sheds  and  buildings  for  the  repair  of  the 
engines  and  carriages  :  at  Gartsherrie  the  business  of 
the  station  is  conducted  at  an  inn,  and  there  are  two 
or  three  intermediate  stations  on  the  line.  The  sub- 
scribed capital  of  the  company,  in  shares  of  £25  each,  is 
£139,000;  and  in  1844,  an  act  was  passed  authorising 
an  addition  of  £100,000,  with  power  to  form  an  inde- 
pendent line  from  the  original  eastern  terminus  to  Coat- 
bridge and  the  Wishaw  and  Coltness  railway,  and  also 
to  extend  the  line  at  the  west  end  into  the  city.  These 
extensions  will  soon  be  completed,  and  will  increase  the 
line  to  nearly  eleven  miles. 

The    Glasgow,    Paisley,   Kilmarnock,   and  Ayr  Railway 
Vol.  I.— 489 


commences  at  Tradeston,  near  the  city,  and  for  a  short 
distance  proceeds  in  a  direction  parallel  with  the  Glas- 
gow and  Johnstone  canal,  and,  making  a  slight  curve, 
passes  on  to  Paisley,  and  is  there  carried  over  the  river 
Cart.  Thence  it  runs  between  Elderslie  and  Johnstone, 
and,  crossing  the  canal  in  three  different  places,  ad- 
vances nearly  parallel  with  the  Black  Cart  river,  till  it 
verges  on  the  loch  of  Kilbirnie,  nineteen  miles  from 
Glasgow,  where  it  attains  its  summit  level,  about  seventy 
feet  above  the  terminus.  The  line  thence  proceeds 
towards  Ayr,  passing  on  the  east  of  the  Garnock 
river,  which  it  crosses  in  the  parish  of  Dairy,  where  the 
Kilmarnock  branch  of  eleven  miles  diverges  from  it 
on  the  east.  It  then  advances  to  Dalgarvan  Mill,  and 
intersects  the  west  side  of  the  town  of  Kilwinning,  near 
which  the  short  Ardrossan  railway  strikes  off;  and, 
advancing  to  Irvine,  it  passes  near  the  Frith  of  Clyde, 
in  the  parish  of  Dundonald,  to  Barassie  Mill,  after  which, 
crossing  the  Kilmarnock  and  Troon  tramroad,  it  runs 
between  Monkton  and  the  Frith  to  Prestwick,  and  ter- 
minates at  the  new  bridge  of  Ayr,  on  the  north  side 
of  the  river.  The  line,  from  Glasgow  to  Ayr,  is  forty 
miles  in  length,  of  which  about  one-fourth  is  level,  and 
of  the  remainder  the  steepest  gradient  is  not  more  than 
twelve  feet  in  a  mile.  The  heaviest  earthworks  are 
between  Glasgow  and  Paisley  :  the  Ibrox  cutting,  here, 
above  a  mile  long,  has  a  depth  of  twenty  feet ;  and  the 
Arklestone  tunnel  and  cuttings  are  nearly  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  in  length,  and  fifty  feet  below  the  surface. 
The  chief  bridges  are  those  over  the  Irvine  and  Gar- 
nock rivers,  and  one  over  the  Cart,  at  Paisley,  which 
has  a  span  of  eighty-five  feet,  and  a  viaduct  crossing 
seven  streets,  supported  on  arches  proportionate  to 
their  breadth.  The  intermediate  stations  are  at  Paisley, 
Johnstone,  Beith,  Kilwinning,  Irvine,  Troon,  and  Prest- 
wick. The  whole  line  was  completed  at  an  expense  of 
£732,3S0,  including  only  half  the  cost  of  the  portion 
between  Glasgow  and  Paisley,  the  other  half  being  con- 
tributed by  the  Glasgow  and  Greenock  Company  :  the 
road  was  opened  to  Ayr  on  the  12th  of  August,  1840. 
The  Glasgow,  Paisley,  and  Greenock  Railway  is  connected 
with  the  Ayr  railway  as  far  as  Paisley,  whence  the  line 
diverges,  and  proceeds  in  a  direction  W.  N.  W.,  passing 
through  Port-Glasgow  to  Greenock,  a  distance  of  22^ 
miles.  In  its  course,  including  the  viaducts  at  Glasgow 
and  Paisley,  there  are  not  less  than  sixty  bridges  :  at 
Bishopton-Ridge,  where  it  attains  its  summit  level,  are 
two  short  tunnels,  and  there  are  deep  cuttings  at  Carts- 
burn  and  Carnegie  hills.  In  the  summer  of  1840,  more 
than  3000  men,  200  horses,  and  one  locomotive  and 
three  fixed  engines,  were  employed  on  the  line.  The 
portion  between  Glasgow  and  Paisley  was  opened  on 
the  14th  of  July,  1840,  and  the  line  was  finished  to 
Greenock  on  the  31st  of  March,  1841  :  the  present 
capital  of  the  company  is  £866,666.  Facilities  of  in- 
tercourse are  also  afforded  by  numerous  coaches,  of 
which,  in  1834,  there  were  sixty-one  leaving  and  re- 
turning to  the  city  daily;  and  thirty-seven  steam-boats 
performed  each  two  or  three  trips  every  day,  Sundays 
only  excepted. 

Public  Buildings  connected  with  Trade,  &c. 

The  Town-hall  and  old  Royal  Exchange,  in  Trongate- 
street,  erected  in   1636,  and  greatly  improved  in  1740, 

3  R 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


for  the  accommodation  of  the  merchants  of  the  city,  is 
an  elegant  structure,  and  adorned  by  a  piazza  of  the 
Doric  order,  having  the  keystones  of  the  arches  orna- 
mented with  grotesque  heads  well  sculptured  :  above  the 
piazza  rises  the  chief  story,  embellished  with  pillars  of 
the  Ionic  order,  supporting  a  handsome  entablature  and 
cornice  surmounted  by  an  open  balustrade  enriched  with 
pilasters  crowned  by  vases.  The  principal,  or  Town, 
hall,  which  is  occasionally  used  by  the  inhabitants  for 
holding  public  meetings,  is  fifty-four  feet  in  length,  and 
twenty-seven  feet  wide,  with  a  coved  ceiling  twenty- 
four  feet  high.  The  walls  are  decorated  with  trophies, 
and  full-length  portraits  of  James  VI.,  Charles  I.  and  II, , 
James  II.,  William  III.  and  his  queen,  Mary,  Queen 
Anne,  George  I.,  II.,  and  III.,  and  of  Archibald,  Duke 
of  Argyll,  in  his  robes  as  lord  justice-general  :  over  the 
mantel-piece  is  a  bust,  in  bronze,  of  George  III.  ;  and 
at  the  east  end  of  the  hall,  a  statue,  in  marble,  of  Wil- 
liam Pitt,  by  Flaxman.  To  the  west  of  the  old  Exchange, 
in  the  same  building,  were  the  old  assembly-rooms,  a 
handsome  suite,  elegantly  fitted  up.  The  chief  room  is 
forty-seven  feet  long,  twenty-four  feet  wide,  and  twenty- 
four  feet  high  ;  the  walls  are  adorned  with  fluted  Corin- 
thian columns,  sustaining  an  enriched  ceiling,  from 
which  are  suspended  three  brilliant  chandeliers  of  cut 
glass.  This  room  is  now  the  principal  hall  of  the 
Tontine  hotel.  The  New  Exchange,  a  spacious  edifice, 
at  the  west  end  of  the  old  part  of  the  city,  was  erected 
about  fifteen  years  ago,  and  for  the  beauty  of  its  design 
is  not  surpassed  by  any  structure  in  the  kingdom  :  on 
each  side,  lofty  and  handsome  buildings  have  been  raised, 
to  form  a  suitable  square.  This  superb  pile,  which  was 
planned  by  Mr.  David  Hamilton,  a  native  of  Glasgow, 
and  cost  £60,000,  is  wholly  in  the  Grecian  style  of 
architecture,  and  is  entered  by  a  noble  portico,  sur- 
mounted by  a  lantern  tower.  The  great  room  measures 
130  feet  in  length,  sixty  feet  in  breadth,  and  thirty  feet 
in  height  in  the  centre,  aud  is  supported  on  each  side 
by  pillars  of  the  Corinthian  order.  Close  to  the  New 
Exchange,  and  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  square,  is  an 
equestrian  statue  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  the  in- 
auguration of  which  took  place  October  8th,  1844 ;  it 
is  a  noble  performance,  and  was  raised  by  the  muni- 
ficence of  the  inhabitants,  by  whom  the  sculptor  Maro- 
chetti  was  engaged  for  the  purpose.  On  one  side  of 
the  pedestal  is  represented,  in  bas-relief,  the  victory  of 
Assaye  ;  on  the  opposite  side  is  depicted  that  of  Water- 
loo ;  and  the  two  remaining  sides  are  occupied  by  repre- 
sentations of  the  Soldier's  Return,  and  the  peaceful 
pursuits  of  Agriculture. 

The  Tontine  Coffee-rooms  and  Hotel  form  a  hand- 
some edifice,  erected  in  1781,  after  a  design  by  Hamilton. 
The  coffee-room  is  seventy-four  feet  long,  and  of  pro- 
portionate width  and  height :  at  the  north  end,  which 
is  circular,  is  a  spacious  window,  divided  by  Doric 
columns  into  compartments,  within  which  are  seats  for 
the  subscribers  ;  and  the  room,  which  is  amply  sup- 
plied with  Scotch,  English,  and  Irish  newspapers,  and 
periodical  publications  of  every  kind,  is  lighted  by  richly- 
cut  glass  chandeliers.  The  principal  entrance,  which  is 
from  the  piazza,  leads  into  a  vestibule  of  which  the  lofty 
roof  is  sustained  by  pillars  of  the  Doric  order,  with  cor- 
responding pilasters  inserted  at  proper  intervals  in  the 
walls.  The  reading-room  is  supported  by  an  annual 
subscription  of  £1.  19,.,  but  is  open  to  strangers  gra- 
490 


tuitously  for  a  limited  time  ;  the  hotel  contains  nume- 
rous suites  of  apartments,  elegantly  furnished,  and  re- 
plete with  every  accommodation.  There  are  numerous 
banking  establishments,  of  which  the  principal  are, 
branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  the  British  Linen 
Company,  the  Commercial,  the  National,  and  the  Royal 
Banks  of  Scotland  ;  the  City  of  Glasgow  bank ;  the 
Clydesdale,  the  Glasgow  Joint-stock,  and  the  Glasgow 
Union  Companies.  The  old  Post-office,  situated  on  the 
east  side  of  South  Albion-street,  was  a  neat  edifice  of 
stone,  with  a  handsome  cornice  and  pediment,  in  the 
centre  of  the  front.  At  one  end  of  the  building  was  a 
covered  entrance,  and  at  the  other  a  spacious  lobby,  in 
which  was  a  range  of  windows  so  contrived  that  persons 
having  boxes  might  see  at  once  if  there  were  any  letters, 
previously  to  the  commencement  of  the  general  deli- 
very. The  present  Post-office  is  in  Glassford-street,  where 
a  building  formerly  occupied  as  warehouses  is  fitted  up 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  public. 

The  market,  which  is  abundantly  supplied  with  pro- 
visions of  all  kinds,  is  on  Wednesday ;  and  fairs  are 
held  annually,  on  the  second  Wednesday  in  January, 
the  Thursday  before  Easter,  the  26th  of  May  or  on  the 
Monday  following,  the  first  Monday  after  Whitsunday, 
the  second  Monday  in  July,  and  on  the  Wednesday 
after  Martinmas.  The  Corn  Exchange,  in  Hope- 
street,  was  completed  and  opened  for  the  use  of  the 
corn  merchants  in  November,  1842;  it  is  a  handsome 
quadrangular  structure  of  stone,  erected  under  the 
superintendence  of  Messrs.  Brown  and  Carrick,  by  a 
proprietary  of  £50  shareholders.  The  exterior  is  re- 
lieved by  a  range  of  circular-headed  windows  :  in  the 
centre  of  the  principal  front,  at  the  entrance  from  Hope- 
street,  is  a  beautiful  portico  of  Corinthian  columns, 
twenty-five  feet  high,  supporting  an  entablature  and 
pediment ;  and  the  walls  all  round  are  crowned  with  an 
open  balustrade.  The  interior  contains  a  hall  for  the 
meeting  of  the  merchants,  eighty  feet  in  length  and 
fifty-seven  wide,  lighted  by  cupolas  formed  in  the  com- 
partments of  the  ceiling,  which  is  twenty-two  feet  high, 
and  by  a  magnificent  lantern  in  the  centre,  fifty  feet 
long  and  thirty  feet  wide,  sustained  on  eight  fluted 
columns  of  the  Corinthian  order.  Around  the  hall  are 
ranged  thirty-six  stalls,  let  to  tenants  at  a  rent  of  £10 
per  annum,  and  so  contrived  as  to  afford  every  facility 
of  carrying  on  the  business  of  the  market  :  underneath 
the  hall  is  a  store,  capable  of  containing  800  tons  of 
grain.  There  are  markets  for  butchers'  meat  and  fish 
situated  in  King-street,  the  former  112  feet,  long  and 
fifty-seven  feet  wide,  and  the  latter  173  feet  by  forty- 
six.  The  area,  which  is  inclosed  with  walls,  and  has 
several  handsome  entrance  gateways,  is  subdivided  into 
stalls,  and  paved  with  freestone ;  the  benches  for  the 
fish  are  covered  with  lead,  aud  each  stall  has  a  separate 
water  pipe.  The  market  for  beef,  in  Bell- street,  is  of 
plainer  character.  The  vegetable  and  green  market 
formerly  occupied  the  site  of  the  ancient  Wynd  church; 
and  the  butter,  cheese,  poultry,  and  egg  market,  once 
in  Montrose-street,  has  been  removed  to  the  Bowling- 
green  (now  the  Bazaar),  in  Candleriggs-street,  covering 
241 1  square  yards.  The  slaughter-house,  to  the  south  of 
Bridgegate-street,  is  a  large  building,  erected  in  1810, 
and  occupying  4736  square  yards ;  it  contains  seventy- 
seven  separate  killing-rooms,  two  cattle-yards,  and  two 
alleys  leading  to  the  killing-rooms,  along  the  whole  of 


G  L  A  S 


GL  A  S 


which  are  placed  pipes  for  conveying  water,  with  copi- 
ous sewers,  to  carry  off  the  offensive  matter.  The  cattle- 
market,  erected  in  1818,  between  the  roads  leading  to 
Edinburgh  by  the  Gallowgate  and  Duke  streets,  is  a 
spacious  area,  containing  '29,560  square  yards,  paved 
with  stone,  and  inclosed  with  walls.  It  has  a  good  inn, 
with  stabling,  and  affords  accommodation  for  the  dis- 
play of  120  oxen  and  nearly  10,000  sheep  ;  it  is  well 
attended  by  dealers  from  distant  places,  and  occasionally 
cattle  and  pigs  are  sent  from  Ireland  for  sale.  At  the 
east  end  of  Ingram-street  is  the  Tron  or  weigh  house,  a 
large  building  which  is  also  used  as  a  storehouse. 

Municipal  Affairs. 

The  city  of  Glasgow,  though  declared  to  be  a  free 
burgh  by  charter  of  William  the  Lion,  still  exercised  the 
privileges  conferred  upon  it.  solely  under  the  influence 
and  controul  of  the  bishops  and  archbishops  of  the  see, 
in  favour  of  whom,  indeed,  the  charter  was  especially 
granted.  Even  after  it  was  erected  into  a  burgh  of 
regality  by  James  II.,  the  citizens  continued  to  be 
governed  by  bailies  appointed  by  the  bishops,  who 
generally  selected  the  most  powerful  among  the  nobility 
of  the  kingdom  to  fill  that  office,  which  eventually  be- 
came hereditary  in  the  family  of  the  dukes  of  Lennox. 
After  the  resignation  of  this  power  by  one  of  the  dukes, 
the  choice  of  the  magistrates  was  regularly  made  by  the 
crown  till  the  year  1611,  when,  by  an  ample  charter 
bestowed  by  James  VI.,  confirming  all  former  gifts,  the 
burgesses  were  vested  with  the  liberty  of  electing  their 
own  magistrates.  This  charter  was  ratified  and  ex- 
tended by  Charles  I.,  and  afterwards  confirmed  by 
charter  of  Charles  II.  ;  and  in  1690,  by  charter  of  Wil- 
liam III.,  the  citizens  received  all  the  privileges  of  a 
royal  burgh,  with  rights  and  immunities  as  full  and 
free  as  those  of  Edinburgh.  Under  this  charter,  as  ex- 
plained by  usage  since  the  Union,  and  as  lately  modified 
by  the  Municipal  Corporations'  act,  the  government  of 
the  city  is  vested  in  a  lord  provost,  five  bailies,  a  trea- 
surer, a  dean  of  guild  elected  by  the  Merchants'  House, 
a  deacon-convener  elected  by  the  Trades'  House,  a  bailie 
of  the  river  Clyde,  and  twenty-two  other  councillors, 
assisted  by  assessors  and  town-clerks,  a  chamberlain  and 
superintendent  of  works,  and  other  officers.  The  coun- 
cil, thus  consisting  of  thirty-two  members,  formerly 
chosen  by  the  corporation,  have,  since  the  passing  of 
the  Municipal  act,  been  chosen  by  the  £10  householders 
resident  within  the  burgh.  The  provost  and  treasurer 
continue  in  office  for  three  years,  and  the  third  of  the 
council  who  have  been  longest  in  office  retire  annually, 
in  November  :  the  chamberlain  is  appointed  by  the 
magistrates  and  council  during  pleasure,  but  is  generally 
continued  for  life;  the  town-clerks,  also,  regard  their 
appointment  as  ad  vitam  aut  cv.lpam.  The  corpora- 
tion are  patrons  of  all  the  churches  of  the  Esta- 
blishment within  the  royalty,  except  the  High  church  ; 
they  have  also  the  patronage  of  the  Grammar  or  High 
School,  and  the  right  of  presentation  to  several  bursaries, 
or  scholarships,  in  the  university.  The  jurisdiction  of 
the  magistrates  extends  over  the  ancient  royalty,  the 
lands  of  Ramshorn,  with  other  parts  of  the  Barony 
parish,  and  the  lands  of  Blythswood. 

The  city  is  divided  into  five  wards,  each  of  which 
chooses  six  of  the  town-councillors ;  and  the  inhabitants 
491 


have  the  power,  on  certain  payments,  of  joining  either 
of  two  classes,  the  merchants  and  the  tradesmen,  each 
having  a  separate  house,  in  which  their  interests  are 
respectively  under  the  superintendence  of  a  dean  of 
guild  and  a  deacon-convener,  who  are  e'ected,  the  dean 
by  the  merchants  and  the  convener  by  the  trades,  and 
are  members  of  the  council.  There  are  fourteen  trades  or 
companies,  duly  incorporated,  and  which,  as  settled  by 
the  letter  of  guildry,  take  precedence  as  follows  ;  the 
hammermen,  tailors,  cordiners,  maltmen,  weavers,  bax- 
ters,  skinners,  Wrights,  coopers,  fieshers,  masons,  gar- 
deners, barbers,  and  bonnet-makers.  These  companies 
constitute  the  Trades'  House.  The  origin  of  the  Mer- 
chants' House  is  involved  in  some  obscurity :  it  appears, 
prior  to  17-47,  to  have  consisted  wholly  of  the  burgesses 
who  followed  the  occupation  of  merchants  ;  but,  by  an 
act  of  the  house  in  that  year,  the  corporation  was 
thrown  open  to  all  traders  within  the  city,  whether 
natives  or  foreigners,  wholesale  or  retail  dealers,  of  fair 
character,  who  should  pay  a  subscription  of  four  shil- 
lings annually,  and  a  fine  of  five  shillings  on  admission, 
which  latter  sum  has  been  subsequently  raised  to  ten 
guineas.  This  house  is  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  dean  of  guild,  who  has  power  to  compel  such  of  the 
inhabitants  as  are  not  freemen,  and  exercise  the  privi- 
leges of  the  city,  to  enter  themselves  as  burgesses,  and  to 
pay  the  fine.  Most  of  the  companies  are  possessed  of 
property  to  a  considerable  amount,  and  contribute  largely 
to  the  support  of  charitable  institutions. 

The  magistrates  exercise  both  civil  and  criminal  juris- 
diction within  the  burgh,  the  former  to  an  unlimited 
amount  in  personal  actions,  and  the  latter  extending  to 
all  offences  not  capital,  or  punishable  by  transporta- 
tion. A  court  is  held  every  other  Thursday  before 
the  dean  of  guild  and  his  council,  consisting  of  eight 
members,  four  from  the  Merchants'  and  four  from  the 
Trades'  House.  It  grants  warrants  for  the  erection  or 
repair  of  buildings  in  the  public  thoroughfares,  which 
cannot  be  commenced  without  their  order;  also  for  the 
removal  of  obstructions  and  nuisances ;  and  in  this 
court,  prosecutions  are  instituted  against  such  as  trade 
in  the  city  without  having  obtained  their  freedom.  The 
business  is  conducted  by  the  town-clerks,  who  act  as 
assessors.  The  Water-Bailie's  court  is  held  on  stated 
days,  for  civil  and  criminal  business  ;  and  in  all  cases 
above  the  amount  of  ten  shillings,  the  proceedings  are 
in  writing  :  the  causes  are  decided  by  the  town-clerks, 
as  assessors  ;  and  the  jurisdiction  of  the  court  extends 
from  the  port  to  the  Cloch  lighthouse,  twenty-five  miles 
below  Glasgow,  for  all  offences  committed  on  the  river 
or  in  the  harbour.  The  Police  establishment  is  managed, 
in  a  very  effective  manner,  by  a  board,  elected  from 
each  of  the  wards  into  which  the  city  is  divided,  the 
magistrates  being  members  ex  officio  :  the  police  build- 
ings, erected  at  an  expense  of  £14,000,  and  finished  in 
the  month  of  January,  1S26,  are  of  a  superior  kind,  and 
embrace  every  requisite  accommodation,  including  a 
court-room,  numerous  cells,  &c. 

Among  the  edifices  connected  with  municipal  affairs, 
one  of  the  most  prominent  is  that  designated  the  City  and 
County  Buildings,  an  elegant  structure  recently  erected, 
and  connected  with  the  present  Merchants'  House,  also 
modern.  The  old  Merchants'  House,  a.  spacious  and  neat 
building  on  the  south  side  of  Bridgegate-street,  was 
erected  in  1 659,  and  sold  only  a  few  years  ago  :  its  chief 

3R9 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


external  ornament  is  its  lofty  tower,  of  three  stages, 
rising  from  each  other  in  diminished  proportions,  and 
terminating  in  a  pyramidal  spire,  surmounted  by  a  vane 
representing  a  ship  in  full  sail,  and  having  an  elevation  of 
164  feet  from  the  base.  The  interior  contained  a  spa- 
cious hall,  eighty  feet  in  length  and  thirty  wide,  the  walls 
of  which  were  hung  with  well-painted  portraits  of  the 
most  munificent  benefactors  to  the  poor  members  of  the 
company  :  there  were  also  various  other  apartments  for 
the  transaction  of  the  business  of  the  institution.  The 
Trades  House,  on  the  west  side  of  Glassford-street,  was 
erected  on  the  site  of  a  former  building,  after  a  design 
by  Messrs.  Robert  and  James  Adam  ;  it  is  a  handsome 
structure  of  stone,  consisting  of  a  central  range  and  two 
slightly-projecting  wings,  rising  from  a  rusticated  base- 
ment. Over  the  entrance,  in  the  centre  of  the  edifice, 
is  a  boldly-projecting  portico  of  two  duplicated  columns 
of  the  Ionic  order,  supporting  an  enriched  entablature 
and  cornice,  surmounted  by  a  triangular  pediment,  above 
which  is  an  attic,  with  an  open  balustrade,  having  in 
the  centre  a  shield  bearing  the  city  arms,  supported  by 
two  female  figures  in  a  reclining  attitude,  well  sculp- 
tured. The  whole  is  crowned  by  a  spacious  dome,  rising 
from  the  roof,  and  terminating  in  a  cupola  and  lantern. 
The  hall,  which  is  seventy  feet  in  length,  thirty-five  feet 
wide,  and  twenty-four  feet  high,  is  lighted  in  front  by 
three  large  Venetian  windows,  between  which  are  other 
windows  of  smaller  dimensions,  and  by  the  lantern  of 
the  dome,  the  interior  of  which  is  richly  embellished  ; 
the  walls  are  ornamented  with  pilasters  of  the  Doric 
order,  supporting  an  entablature  and  cornice,  and  are 
hung  with  portraits  of  the  principal  benefactors,  and  the 
armorial  bearings  of  the  fourteen  companies. 

The  old  Tolbooth,  to  the  east  of  the  town-hall,  an 
ancient  building  containing  the  courts  of  justice  for  the 
city  and  county,  and  also  the  prison  for  debtors  and 
malefactors,  was  five  stories  in  height.  It  had  square 
turrets  at  the  angles,  and  on  the  south  side  a  boldly- 
projecting  and  embattled  porch,  forming  the  principal 
entrance,  with  a  square  tower  surmounted  by  a  spire, 
rising  from  the  battlements,  and  strengthened  by  flying 
buttresses  resembling  an  imperial  crown,  together  126 
feet  in  height.  In  the  tower,  which  is  still  preserved, 
is  an  excellent  clock,  whereby  the  other  clocks  in  the 
town  are  regulated  ;  also  a  remarkably  fine  set  of  musi- 
cal chimes,  containing  about  thirty  bells.  This  prison, 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  without  court-yards, 
chapel,  or  infirmary,  not  containing  sufficient  accommo- 
dation for  holding  the  courts,  and  having  only  thirty- 
two  apartments  for  prisoners  of  every  description,  was 
abandoned  by  the  corporation,  and,  with  the  exception 
of  the  tower,  sold  to  Mr.  Cleland  for  £8000,  in  1807. 
A  new  building,  containing  the  gaol  and  justiciary  cir- 
cuit courts  has  consequently  been  erected  on  a  greatly- 
enlarged  plan,  in  a  healthy  situation,  on  the  public 
green  adjoining  the  river.  The  new  Prison,  raised  at  an 
expense  of  £34,800,  contains  spacious  rooms  for  the 
several  courts,  and  122  apartments  for  prisoners,  admit- 
ting of  efficient  classification,  and  furnished  with  water 
and  every  requisite  for  cleanliness  and  health.  Two 
cells,  parted  from  the  rest  of  the  gaol,  and  so  con- 
structed as  to  dispense  with  the  use  of  irons,  are  reserved 
for  prisoners  under  sentence  of  death.  The  governor's 
house  commands  a  view  of  the  several  airing  yards  ;  the 
chapel  is  seated  for  200  persons,  and  there  is  an  infir- 
492 


mary,  well  ventilated,  for  the  reception  of  the  sick. 
The  old  Bridewell,  in  Duke-street,  opened  in  1798,  con- 
tains 105  cells,  and,  though  ill  adapted  for  classification, 
answered  the  purpose  for  which  it  was  erected  till,  from 
the  great  increase  of  population,  it  became  too  small, 
when  the  authorities  formed  a  resolution  to  erect  a 
bridewell  capacious  enough  to  receive  the  prisoners  both 
of  the  city  and  the  county,  for  which  purpose,  having 
procured  an  act  of  parliament,  they  erected  the  present 
structure,  which  was  opened  in  1824.  This  building, 
adjoining  the  former,  is  not  only  sufficiently  ample  and 
spacious,  but  combines  all  the  advantages  of  complete 
classification,  seclusion,  security,  and  healthful  accom- 
modation. The  House  of  Refuge,  for  the  reclamation  of 
juvenile  offenders,  was  erected  by  subscriptions  exceed- 
ing £10,000,  on  a  site  comprising  four  acres  of  ground 
on  the  lands  of  White  Hill  ;  the  institution  is  also  open 
to  the  reception  of  orphan  children  and  others  whose 
parents  abandon  them  to  vagrancy,  and  is  conducted  on 
a  plan  combining  every  thing  requisite  for  the  resto- 
ration of  the  depraved  to  habits  of  order  and  virtuous 
industry. 

Previously  to  the  Reform  act,  Glasgow  was  united 
with  the  burghs  of  Rutherglen,  Renfrew,  and  Dumbar- 
ton, in  returning  one  member  to  the  imperial  parlia- 
ment, who  was  elected  by  the  burgesses;  but  since  the 
passing  of  that  act,  the  city  of  itself  has  returned  two 
members,  and  the  right  of  election  has  been  in  the  £10 
householders. 

The  University. 

The  University  was  ori- 
ginally founded  in  1451,  by 
Bishop  Turnbull,  who,  under 
the  sanction  of  James  II., 
procured  for  that  purpose  a 
bull  from  Pope  Nicholas  V., 
and  was  appointed  the  first 
regent  or  chancellor.  The 
bishop,  with  the  assistance 
of  his  chapter,  prepared  a 
body  of  statutes  for  the  go- 
vernment of  the  institution, 
which  was  placed  under  the 
superintendence  of  a  chancellor,  rector,  doctors,  and 
masters  of  the  four  faculties  of  theology,  canon  law, 
civil  law,  and  the  arts,  as  enumerated  in  the  papal 
bull,  and  of  which  the  several  professors  had  taken 
their  degrees  in  other  universities.  To  encourage  the 
professors,  in  1453,  the  bishop  obtained  for  every 
beneficed  clergyman  belonging  to  the  college,  exemption 
from  all  taxes  and  public  burdens,  and  from  residence 
in  their  respective  cures,  provided  they  took  care  to 
have  the  religious  duties  regularly  performed.  The 
rector  was  sole  judge  in  all  civil  and  criminal  causes  in 
which  any  member  of  the  university  was  a  party;  and 
the  whole  of  the  privileges  and  exemptions  were  con- 
firmed by  an  act  of  James  II.,  and  renewed  by  succeeding 
sovereigns.  The  institution,  however,  had  no  endow- 
ment, but  was  supported  solely  by  the  small  perquisites 
and  fees  paid  into  the  common  fund  on  the  conferring 
of  degrees,  and  the  patronage  of  two  or  three  small 
chapelries  :  there  was  at  first  no  building  appropriated 
for  its  use,  and  the  officers  held   their  meetings  either 


Seal. 


GL  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


in  the  chapter-house  of  the  Black  Friars',  or  in  the 
cathedral,  till  the  year  1459,  when  James,  the  first  lord 
Hamilton,  gave  to  the  principal  and  the  regent  of  the 
college  of  arts,  a  spacious  mansion  in  the  High-street, 
and  four  acres  of  land  on  Dow  Hill. 

On  the  Reformation,  Archbishop  James  Beaton,  who 
was  then  chancellor,  withdrew  to  France,  taking  with 
him  the  plate  of  the  cathedral,  and  the  bulls,  charters, 
and  other  records,  both  of  the  see  and  of  the  university, 
which  he  deposited  partly  in  the  convent  of  the  Car- 
thusian monks,  and  partly  in  the  Scotch  college,  at 
Paris,  to  be  preserved  till  the  restoration  of  papacy.  At 
this  period,  with  the  exception  of  the  college  of  arts, 
which  was  still  maintained  by  the  contributions  of  the 
students,  the  university  appears  to  have  fallen  to  decay. 
In  this  depressed  state  of  its  finances,  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots,  granted  to  the  College  of  Arts,  in  1560,  the  kirk 
and  manse  of  the  Friars  "  Prsdicatores,"  with  thirteen 
acres  of  land,  and  the  rents  and  annuities  belonging  to 
that  paternity,  for  the  foundation  of  five  bursaries  for 
poor  students  ;  and  in  15/2,  the  corporation  of  Glasgow 
gave,  for  the  support  of  the  university,  all  the  lands, 
tenements,  and  other  profits  and  emoluments  of  the 
several  chapels,  altarages,  and  prebends  in  the  churches 
of  the  city.  In  1577,  James  VI.,  a  minor,  granted,  with 
consent  of  the  Earl  of  Morton,  then  regent,  the  rectory 
and  vicarage  of  the  kirk  of  Govan;  and  conferred  also 
upon  the  university  a  new  charter  of  foundation,  which, 
in  its  most  essential  points,  is  still  in  force  j  and  from 
that  time  the  institution  has  continued  to  flourish. 
Charles  I.  bestowed  upon  it  all  the  temporalities  of  the 
bishopric  of  Galloway  ;  William  III.  granted  £300  from 
the  exchequer,  payable  annually,  for  its  support ;  and 
in  1702,  the  number  of  students  had  amounted  to  402. 
Queen  Anne,  in  170S,  assigned  £210  per  annum  to- 
wards the  maintenance  of  a  professor  of  anatomy  and 
botany ;  and  succeeding  sovereigns  have  been  liberal 
benefactors.  Alexander  Macfarlane,  of  Jamaica,  who 
had  built  an  observatory  there,  at  his  death  bequeathed 
the  whole  of  his  astronomical  apparatus  to  the  college, 
on  condition  that  they  should  erect  an  observatory  ; 
and  in  17  60,  a  royal  grant  of  £50  per  annum  was  made 
in  aid  of  the  support  of  a  professor  of  astronomy.  The 
university  has  been  also  patronised  by  many  distin- 
guished individuals,  among  whom  was  the  late  Dr. 
William  Hunter,  of  London,  who  bequeathed  to  it  the 
whole  of  his  valuable  collection  of  specimens  illustrative 
of  natural  history,  medals,  anatomical  preparations, 
books,  and  manuscripts,  with  £8000  for  the  erection 
of  a  museum  for  their  reception. 

The  university,  as  at  present  constituted,  is  under 
the  superintendence  of  three  distinct  bodies,  the 
senate,  the  comitia,  and  the  faculty.  The  members  of 
the  senate  are,  the  rector,  the  dean  of  the  several 
faculties,  and  the  professors,  of  whom  the  rector  is  pre- 
sident, or,  in  affairs  for  which  he  is  competent,  the 
dean  :  they  hold  their  meetings  for  the  election  and 
admission  of  the  chancellor,  and  dean  of  faculty,  the 
vice-chancellor,  and  vice-rector ;  for  the  election  of  a 
representative  in  the  General  Assembly ;  for  the  con- 
ferring of  degrees,  the  management  of  the  library,  and 
other  matters  belonging  to  the  university.  The  comitia 
consists  of  the  rector,  the  dean,  the  principal,  the  pro- 
fessors, and  the  matriculated  students,  of  whom  the 
rector,  or  the  vice-rector,  is  president.  They  meet  for 
493 


the  election  and  admission  of  the  rector  ;  for  the  hear- 
ing of  public  disputations  in  the  several  faculties,  pre- 
viously to  the  conferring  of  degrees  ;  for  hearing  the 
inaugural  discourses  of  the  principal  and  professors, 
before  admission  to  their  respective  offices ;  and  for  the 
promulgation  of  the  laws  of  the  university,  and  other 
acts  of  the  university  and  college  courts.  The  faculty 
consists  of  the  principal,  and  the  professors  of  divinity, 
church  history,  the  oriental  languages,  natural  and 
moral  philosophy,  the  mathematics,  logic,  Greek,  hu- 
manity, civil  law,  medicine,  anatomy,  and  practical 
astronomy  :  the  principal  is  president,  and  has  a  casting, 
but  not  a  deliberative,  vote.  The  members  of  faculty 
have  the  administration  of  the  revenues  of  the  college, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  particular  bequests  in  which 
the  rector  or  other  officers  are  expressly  named  ;  also 
the  patronage  of  eight  professorships,  of  several  bur- 
saries, and  of  the  parish  church  of  Govan. 

The  principal  officers  of  the  university  are,  the  chan- 
cellor, vice-chancellor,  rector,  dean  of  faculties,  prin- 
cipal, the  keeper  of  the  museum,  librarian,  and  sub- 
librarian. The  chancellor,  who  holds  office  for  life,  has 
the  sole  privilege  of  conferring  degrees  on  persons  found 
qualified  by  the  senatus  academicus ;  the  rector  is 
elected  annually,  and  exercises  academical  jurisdiction 
among  the  students,  and  also  magisterial  jurisdiction  in 
matters  between  the  students  and  citizens.  The  dean 
of  faculty,  who  holds  office  for  two  years,  regulates  the 
course  of  studies  in  the  several  faculties,  and,  together 
with  the  rector,  principal,  and  professors,  decides  upon 
the  qualification  of  the  candidates  for  degrees.  The 
principal  is  appointed  by  the  crown  ;  he  is  primarius 
professor  of  divinity,  and  has  the  superintendence  of 
the  deportment  of  the  members  of  the  college. 
There  are  twenty-three  professors  in  the  four  faculties 
of  arts,  theology,  law,  and  medicine :  in  the  first  of 
these  are  the  professorships  of  humanity,  Greek,  logic, 
moral  philosophy,  natural  philosophy,  mathematics, 
practical  astronomy,  and  natural  history;  in  theology 
are  the  professorships  of  divinity,  church  history,  and 
the  oriental  languages ;  in  law  is  the  single  professor- 
ship of  civil  law  ;  and  in  the  faculty  of  medicine  are  the 
professorships  of  anatomy,  the  theory  and  practice  of 
medicine,  surgery,  midwifery,  chemistry,  botany,  materia 
medica,  and  diseases  of  the  eye.  All  these  professor- 
ships were  founded  previously  to  the  year  1839  ;  since 
that  period  have  been  established  those  of  the  institutes 
of  medicine,  forensic  medicine,  and  civil  engineering. 
The  chairs  of  divinity,  natural  and  moral  philosophy, 
logic,  Greek,  humanity,  mathematics,  and  oriental  lan- 
guages are  in  the  gift  of  the  faculty,  rector,  and  dean  ; 
the  rest,  are  presented  to  by  the  crown.  Attached  to 
the  college  are  sixty-nine  bursaries,  varying  from 
£5  to  £40  per  annum,  tenable  from  four  to  six  years  ; 
and  some  valuable  exhibitions.  Of  the  latter,  the  chief 
were  founded  in  16S8,  by  Mr.  John  Snell,  for  the  sup- 
port of  episcopacy  in  Scotland,  for  which  purpose  he 
devised  an  estate  near  Leamington,  in  the  county  of 
Warwick,  now  producing  £1300  per  annum,  which  sum 
is  appropriated  to  the  education  of  ten  students  from 
Glasgow  at  Baliol  College,  Oxford.  The  other  exhi- 
bitions were  founded  by  John  Warner,  Bishop  of  Ro- 
chester, who  assigned  £20  per  annum  to  be  paid  to  each 
of  four  Scotch  students  at  the  same  college ;  and  this 
endowment   is   received    by   four   of  the   above    exhi- 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


bitioners,  who  have  an  income  of  £150  each,  instead  of 
£130,  tenable,  like  the  other  six  exhibitions,  which  re- 
main at  £130,  for  ten  years. 

The  library  of  the  university  was  founded  in  the  15th 
century,  and  contains  a  very  extensive  collection,  in 
which  are  many  beautiful  editions  of  the  classics;  the 
number  of  volumes  is  increased  by  donations,  and  by 
the  purchase  of  works  with  a  sum  granted  in  lieu  of  the 
privilege  of  receiving  a  copy  of  every  book  published  in 
the  kingdom,  and  with  fees  from  the  students,  who 
are  entitled  to  admission  to  the  library.  The  botanic 
garden,  adjoining  the  college,  was  prepared  for  the  use 
of  the  botanical  professor,  in  1753;  but  from  various 
causes  being  inadequate,  the  botanic  gardens  opened  of 
late,  as  previously  noticed,  have  been  rendered  avail- 
able to  the  purposes  of  the  university.  The  Hunterian 
museum  was  founded  by  the  celebrated  William  Hunter, 
in  the  year  1/81  ;  it  is  an  exceedingly  elegant  struc- 
ture of  stone,  erected  from  a  design  by  Mr.  William 
Stark,  after  the  model  of  a  Roman  temple  of  the 
Doric  order,  and  so  contrived  that  from  every  point 
of  view  it  presents  an  appearance  of  simple  magni- 
ficence. The  collection  is  valued  at  above  £100,000; 
and  the  museum,  in  which  is  a  fine  statue  of  James 
Watt,  in  marble,  by  Chantrey,  is  open  to  the  public  for 
daily  inspection.  The  buildings  of  the  university  are 
situated  on  the  east  side  of  High-street,  towards  which 
is  the  principal  front,  305  feet  in  length  ;  and  they  ex- 
tend 282  feet  in  depth,  inclosing  an  area  of  9556  square 
yards,  divided  into  four  courts,  of  which  three  are 
quadrangular  ranges  three  stories  in  height,  and  relieved 
with  turrets  and  other  ornaments  :  on  the  east  side  of 
the  western  quadrangle  is  a  lofty  tower.  The  erections 
in  the  eastern  division,  which  had  stood  for  more  than 
two  centuries,  and  had  become  dilapidated,  were  in  great 
part  taken  down  and  rebuilt  in  1S11.  The  principal 
front  has  three  entrances,  of  which  the  central  is 
adorned  with  rusticated. masonry ;  and  the  gateway, 
over  which  are  the  royal  arms  in  basso-relievo,  gilt,  is 
surmounted  by  a  balcony  supported  on  corbels.  The 
east  front  is  divided  into  three  compartments,  of  which 
the  central  projects,  and  is  embellished  with  a  lofty  por- 
tico of  four  massive  columns  of  the  Doric  order,  sus- 
taining an  entablature  and  cornice,  with  a  triangular 
pediment ;  the  receding  compartments  have  corre- 
sponding pilasters,  with  entablature  and  cornice,  crowned 
with  an  open  balustrade.  This  range  contains  the  com- 
mon hall,  the  anatomical  theatre,  and  the  halls  of  the 
professors  of  humanity,  Greek,  logic,  chemistry,  mathe- 
matics, and  medicine.  At  the  southern  extremity  is  the 
college  library,  a  handsome  building,  the  front  of  which 
is  enriched  with  Corinthian  pilasters,  supporting  an 
angular  pediment,  with  niches  on  each  side  :  the  new 
library,  to  the  south  of  the  anatomical  theatre,  is  a 
building  of  plainer  character.  The  great  hall,  and  the 
halls  for  the  several  faculties,  fronting  the  High-street, 
are  spacious ;  the  walls  are  decorated  with  pilasters, 
sustaining  an  enriched  entablature  and  cornice,  and  are 
hung  with  portraits  of  eminent  professors  and  other 
literary  characters.  The  chapel,  in  which  the  professors 
and  students  attend  divine  service,  is  fitted  up  with  great 
taste,  and  contains  990  sittings.  The  college  gardens, 
inclosed  with  a  high  stone  wall,  are  laid  out  in  gravel- 
walks,  parterres,  and  shrubberies  ;  and  at  the  extremity 
is  Macfarlane's  observatory. 
494 


The  Andersonian  University. 

This  institution  was  founded  in  1795,  by  Mr.  John 
Anderson,  professor  of  natural  philosophy  in  the  univer- 
sity of  Glasgow,  who  endowed  it  with  a  valuable  library, 
museum,  and  philosophical  apparatus.  It  is  placed  un- 
der the  direction  of  eighty-one  trustees,  elected  by  ballot 
from  the  several  classes  of  tradesmen,  agriculturists, 
manufacturers,  artists,  physicians  and  surgeons,  law- 
yers, and  divines ;  and  nine  managers  are  annually 
chosen,  with  a  president,  treasurer,  and  secretary.  The 
trustees  appointed  Dr.  Garnet,  professor  of  natural 
philosophy  and  chemistry  in  the  Royal  Institution  of 
London,  as  principal  lecturer ;  and  he  was  succeeded 
in  1799,  by  the  late  Dr.  Birkbeck,  who  introduced  a 
familiar  course  of  instruction,  demonstrated  by  experi- 
ments. In  1828,  the  trustees  purchased  the  buildings 
of  the  old  city  grammar  school,  fronting  George-street, 
for  the  permanent  use  of  the  institution,  and  which  have 
been  enlarged  and  adapted  to  that  purpose.  They 
contain  various  class-rooms,  a  library,  museum,  and  a 
hall  for  the  delivery  of  lectures  on  the  different  branches 
of  popular  science,  natural  philosophy,  logic,  ethics, 
rhetoric,  mathematics,  modern  and  oriental  languages, 
painting,  drawing,  medicine,  chemistry,  anatomy,  sur- 
gery, and  midwifery,  which  are  well  attended  by  the 
respective  classes. 

Ecclesiastical  Arrangements,  Churches,  &c. 

The  ancient  see  of  Glasgow,  after  the  abdication  of 
Archbishop  Beaton,  in  1560,  was  governed  by  prelates 
appointed,  at  first  by  the  Earl  of  Lennox,  in  whose 
family  the  temporalities  were  vested,  and  subsequently 
by  the  crown ;  and  from  the  time  of  the  Reformation 
to  the  Revolution,  it  was  under  the  superintendence  of 
fourteen  Protestant  archbishops,  of  whom  the  last,  John 
Paterson,  was  consecrated  in  1687.  There  were  thirty- 
nine  prebendaries  belonging  to  the  cathedral,  all  of  whom 
had  residences  in  its  immediate  vicinity ;  but  their 
houses  were  given  to  various  noblemen  and  gentlemen 
who  had  influence  at  court,  and  the  venerable  cathedral 
itself  was  preserved  from  destruction  only  by  the 
spirited  resistance  of  the  citizens  already  referred  to. 
The  cathedral,  thus  preserved  as  one  of  the  proudest 
ornaments  of  the  city,  is  a  stately  cruciform  structure 
in  the  early  English  style  of  architecture,  319  feet  in 
length  and  sixty-three  feet  in  width,  with  a  square  tower 
rising  from  the  intersection  of  the  nave  and  transepts, 
surmounted  by  a  lofty  spire,  and  with  a  tower  also  at 
the  west  end  of  the  north  aisle.  The  nave,  of  which 
part  was  till  lately  appropriated  as  the  Outer  High 
church,  is  ninety  feet  in  height,  and  is  divided  from  the 
aisles  by  noble  ranges  of  clustered  columns  that  support 
the  roof :  the  choir,  which  has  been  appropriated  as  the 
Inner  High  church,  is  eighty-five  feet  in  height,  and  of 
richer  detail  than  the  nave,  the  columns  that  sustain  the 
roof  being  embellished  with  flowered  capitals.  The 
entrance  into  the  choir  is  through  a  fine  screen  of  the 
later  English  style;  and  the  west  doorway  into  the 
nave,  which  has  been  stopped  up,  is  adorned  with 
canopied  niches  :  indeed,  all  the  details  of  this  interest- 
ing structure  are  in  the  best  character  of  the  English 
style.  The  crypt,  which  was  for  more  than  two  cen- 
turies used  as  the  church  of  the  Barony  parish,  is  un- 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


rivalled  for  elegance  of  design  by  that  of  any  other 
cathedral  of  the  kingdom  ;  it  is  well  lighted  from  the 
abrupt  slope  of  the  ground,  and  is,  perhaps,  one  of  the 
richest  specimens  of  the  early  English  style  in  existence. 
The  piers  are  of  beautiful  character,  and  the  groinings, 
which  are  elaborately  intricate,  are  enriched  with  bosses 
and  other  ornaments  ;  the  capitals  of  the  piers  are  em- 
bellished with  flowers,  and  the  doors  with  foliage.  This 
portion  of  the  ancient  structure  has  been  carefully 
cleared  from  the  rubbish  that  had  been  suffered  to 
accumulate  ;  and  since  the  completion  of  a  new  church 
in  High  John-street,  by  the  corporation,  in  lieu  of  the 
Outer  High  church  in  the  cathedral,  which  had  been 
pronounced  to  be  deeply  infected  with  the  dry  rot,  and 
consequently  unsafe,  the  whole  of  the  nave,  containing 
many  interesting  monuments  and  other  valuable  details 
in  a  ruinous  state  from  neglect,  and  other  parts  of  the 
edifice  have,  under  the  superintendence  of  architects 
appointed  by  government,  been  renovated  and  restored 
to  their  pristine  beauty. 

The  city  is  the  seat  of  a  presbytery,  including  the 
ten  parishes  in  Glasgow,  and  the  twelve  surrounding  pa- 
rishes of  Barony,  Gorbals,  Rutherglen,  Cumbernauld, 
Carmunnock,  Cadder,  Campsie,  Govan,  Kirkintilloch, 
Kilsyth,  Cathcart,  and  Eaglesham.  The  parish  of  the 
Inner  High  church,  originally  the  parish  of  Glasgow,  but 
now  comprising  only  about  1000  acres  in  extent,  is 
principally  occupied  by  buildings,  the  rural  districts  not 
containing  more  than  100  persons,  out  of  a  population 
of  15,444.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £350,  with  a  glebe 
which  is  let  for  building,  and  produces  a  net  rental  of 
£138.  5.  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  church, 
as  already  stated,  is  the  choir  of  the  cathedral ;  it  was 
repaired  in  1S05,  and  contains  1143  sittings.  A  room 
has  been  fitted  up  in  the  Caledonian  pottery  for  divine 
service,  which  was  regularly  performed  by  a  minister 
of  the  Establishment  until  1838  ;  and  a  missionary  also 
officiated  at  two  preaching  stations  within  the  parish. 
The  parish  of  the  Outer  High  church,  or  the  parish  of 
St.  Paul,  containing  a  population  of  9583,  was  erected 
in  1648,  out  of  the  original  parish  of  Glasgow  :  the 
minister  is  appointed  by  the  corporation,  who  are  the 
patrons  also  of  the  parishes  of  College,  Tron,  St.  David, 
St.  George,  St.  Andrew,  St.  Enoch,  St.  John,  and  St. 
James,  to  the  minister  of  each  of  which,  as  well  as  to 
the  minister  of  St.  Paul's,  they  pay  a  stipend  of  £425. 
The  present  church  was  erected  by  the  corporation,  and 
dedicated  to  St.  Paul,  in  1836  ;  it  is  a  handsome  struc- 
ture, and  contains  1198  sittings.  There  are  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  Glassites, 
Old  Scotch  Independents,  Baptists,  Scottish  Baptists, 
the  Society  of  Friends,  and  others.  The  parish  of  the 
College,  or  Blackfriars,  is  a  town  parish,  within  which  the 
buildings  of  the  university  are  situated,  and  is  densely 
populous,  numbering  10,574  persons:  the.  church,  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  was  built  in  1699,  by  pri- 
vate subscription,  and  has  been  occasionally  repaired, 
and  lately  reseated  ;  it  is  a  plain  edifice  containing  130' 
sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  United  Secession,  the  Independent  United  Brethren, 
and  the  Independent  Relief.  The  parish  of  the  Tron 
church  was  formed  out  of  the  old  parish  of  Glasgow  in 
1602,  and  includes  a  portion  of  the  city,  containing 
9990  persons  :  the  church,  situated  near  the  north- 
eastern extremity  of  the  parish,  was  erected  in  1794, 
495 


and  within  the  last  twenty  years  has  undergone  some 
internal  alterations  and  repairs;  it  contains  1366  sit- 
tings. The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place 
of  worship.  The  parish  of  St.  David,  which  contains  a 
population  of  976+,  was  divided  from  the  older  city 
parishes  in  1720,  by  the  presbytery  and  the  court  of 
Teinds  :  the  church,  erected  in  1825,  is  a  neat  structure 
containing  1148  sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship 
for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  the  United  Secession, 
Independents,  the  Relief,  Swedenborgians,  Hebrews, 
Bereans,  Wesleyans,  and  a  congregation  calling  them- 
selves Christians. 

The  parish  of  St.  George,  of  which  the  population  is 
20,3/0,  was  disjoined  from  the  Old  Wynd  parish  by  the 
court  of  Teinds,  in  1687,  and  consists  of  three  separate 
districts  which  are  intersected  by  parts  of  the  Barony 
parish  :  the  church  was  built  in  1807,  from  the  city 
funds,  and  has  not  been  altered  since  its  erection  j  it  is 
a  handsome  edifice  containing  1317  sittings.  A  church, 
dedicated  to  St.  Peter,  has  been  erected  by  the  Church 
Building  Society,  at  an  expense  of  about  £3200,  includ- 
ing the  site  ;  and  a  portion  of  the  parish,  comprising 
4366  persons,  was  for  a  time  annexed  to  it  as  an  eccle- 
siastical district.  There  are  also  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church,  Baptists,  Independents, 
and  Original  Seceders.  The  parish  of  St.  Andrew,  which 
is  entirely  a  town  parish,  and  has  a  population  of  7317, 
was  founded  in  1765,  and  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length, 
and  of  nearly  equal  breadth.  The  church  was  finished  in 
1756,  out  of  the  funds  of  the  city,  and  was  reseated  in 
1333  ;  it  has  a  lofty  tower  surmounted  by  a  spire,  and 
a  noble  portico  of  six  Corinthian  columns,  supporting 
an  entablature  and  cornice,  with  a  triangular  pediment ; 
it  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  St.  Andrew's-square,  and 
contains  1210  sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church,  Church  Presbyterians,  and 
an  episcopal  chapel.  The  parish  of  St.  Enoch  was 
formed  by  the  court  of  Teinds,  in  1782,  and  is  about 
half  a  mile  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth, 
containing  8877  persons.  The  church,  originally  erected 
from  the  city  funds,  in  1782,  and  rebuilt,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  steeple,  in  1828,  is  a  stately  structure 
with  a  lofty  tower  of  several  stages,  terminating  in  a 
pyramidal  spire,  surmounted  by  a  vane ;  it  is  finely 
situated  on  the  south  side  of  St.  Enoch's-square,  and 
contains  1224  sittings.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church  ;  and  the  Roman  Catho- 
lics have  two  chapels,  the  one  a  spacious  edifice  in  the 
later  English  style,  erected  in  1816,  at  an  expense,  in- 
cluding the  residence  for  the  priest,  of  £17,000,  and  the 
other  a  smaller  building,  purchased  in  1824,  at  a  cost 
of  £500.  The  parish  of  St.  John,  formed  out  of  three 
contiguous  parishes  by  the  court  of  Teinds,  in  1819,  is 
about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  one-quarter 
of  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  contains  a  population  of  16,228: 
the  church,  which  is  situated  near  the  western  extremity 
of  the  parish,  was  built  in  1819,  from  the  city  funds, 
and  has  undergone  no  alteration  ;  it  contains  1636  sit- 
tings. There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the 
Free  Church,  Original  Burghers,  the  United  Secession, 
and  the  Relief,  and  an  episcopal  chapel.  The  parish  of 
St.  James  was  erected  by  the  court  of  Teinds,  in  1S19, 
and  is  about  one  mile  in  length,  and  half  a  mile  in 
breadth  ;  it  comprehends  nearly  the  whole  of  the  Public 
Green,  and  comprises  about  115  acres,  and  11,216  per- 


G  L  A  S 


GL  A  S 


sons.  The  church  was  built  in  1812,  by  the  Wesley- 
ans,  from  whom  it  was  purchased  by  the  corporation  in 
1819,  and  erected  into  a  parish  church;  it  is  a  neat 
structure,  and  contains  1371  sittings.  There  are  places 
of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  the  Relief, 
and  the  Reformed  Presbyterians.  The  parish  of  Gorbals 
is  described  under  its  own  head. 

Among  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  which  were  created 
out  of  the  ten  parishes  just  noticed,  and  till  lately  existed 
in  the  city,  was  that  of  Albion,  formed  in  1834,  out  of 
the  parishes  of  the  Outer  High  church  and  St.  David, 
and  having  a  population  of  4792  :  the  church  had  been 
built  in  1768,  and  enlarged  in  1823,  and  is  a  handsome 
structure  containing  1S00  sittings.  The  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  St.  George  in  the  Fields  was  separated  from  the 
parish  of  St.  George,  and  was  about  half  a  mile  in 
length,  and  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth, 
containing  4745  persons.  The  church  was  built  in  1824, 
as  a  chapel  of  ease,  partly  by  donations,  and  partly  by 
funds  borrowed  for  the  purpose,  at  an  expense  of  £2350; 
it  is  a  neat  edifice,  and  has  1226  sittings.  The  parish 
of  Si!.  Thomas  was  formed  from  St.  John's  ;  it  was 
wholly  a  town  parish,  and  about  half  a  mile  in  length, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth,  with  a  population  of 
3762.  The  church  was  erected  in  1 823,  as  a  chapel  of 
ease,  chiefly  under  the  auspices  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  Chalmers, 
at  a  cost  of  £3320,  raised  by  donations  and  by  subscrip- 
tion of  twenty-one  shareholders  of  £100  each;  it  con- 
tains 1398  sittings.  St.  Ann's  was  formed  from  the 
parishes  of  St.  Andrew  and  St.  James,  and  was  of 
moderate  extent  :  the  church,  originally  built  by  the 
Wesleyans  in  1819,  was  bought  for  the  use  of  the 
Establishment  in  1831,  at  a  cost,  including  repairs,  of 
£1500;  it  has  accommodation  for  776"  persons.  Bridge- 
gate,  having  a  population  of  5396,  was  formed  from  the 
parish  of  St.  James  :  this  church,  also,  was  recently 
purchased  from  the  Wesleyans,  at  a  cost,  including  re- 
pairs, of  £2300 ;  it  is  a  neat  building,  and  contains  S90 
sittings.  All  these  quoad  sacra  parishes,  formed  in,  or 
subsequently  to,  the  year  1834,  have  been  completely 
abolished. 

The  barony  civil  and  ecclesiastical  parish  was  sepa- 
rated in  1595  from  the  burgh  of  Glasgow,  which  pre- 
viously formed  the  only  parish,  including  both  the 
royalty  and  the  barony ;  it  contains  a  great  portion  of 
the  suburbs  and  parliamentary  borough,  with  a  wide 
rural  district,  and  is  eight  miles  and  a  half  in  length 
and  four  and  a  half  in  breadth,  comprising  nearly  14,000 
acres,  and  having  a  population  of  106,075.  The  minister 
of  the  parish  receives  a  stipend  of  £310,  with  an  allow- 
ance for  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  considerable  value. 
Previously  to  1800,  the  crypt  of  the  cathedral  was 
appropriated  as  the  place  of  worship  of  this  parish,  but 
in  that  year  the  present  church  was  erected,  and  in 
1830  it  was  repaired  and  enlarged;  it  is  a  neat  struc- 
ture, situated  about  a  mile  from  the  nearest,  and  five 
miles  from  the  farthest,  boundary  of  the  parish,  and 
contains  1403  sittings.  There  are  numerous  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  and  also  for 
Baptists,  Burghers,  Independents,  Reformed  Presby- 
terians, the  United  Secession,  and  Unitarians,  and  an 
episcopal  chapel.  The  late  quoad  sacra  parish  of  St, 
Mark,  separated  from  the  parish  in  1835,  was  wholly  a 
town  parish,  about  400  yards  in  length,  and  200  yards 
in  breadth,  having  a  population  of  3315  :  the  church  was 
496 


originally  built  by  dissenters,  from  whom,  in  1835  it 
was  purchased  by  the  Church  Building  Society,  at  a 
cost,  including  repairs,  of  £1260;  it  contains  1032  sit- 
tings. The  quoad  sacra  parish  of  St.  Stephen,  contain- 
ing 3975  persons,  was  formed  in  1836  :  the  church  had 
been  built  in  1835,  at  an  expense  of  nearly  £3000,  and 
is  a  handsome  edifice  with  1156  sittings.  From  the 
Barony  parish  were  also  separated,  for  ecclesiastical 
purposes,  the  parishes  of  Anderston,  Colton,  Camlachie, 
Maryhill,  Shettleston,  Bridgeton,  St.  Luke,  St.  Matthew, 
and  Renfield,  most  of  which  are  fully  described  under 
their  own  heads  ;  but  all  these  quoad  sacra  divisions, 
like  those  referred  to  in  the  preceding  paragraph,  have 
been  abrogated. 

Within  the  royalty  and  barony  are  likewise  the 
churches  of  Duke-street,  St.  Columba,  and  Hope-street, 
established  for  the  accommodation  of  the  Gaelic  popu- 
lation of  the  city  and  suburbs.  Of  these,  the  Duke- 
street  place  of  worship,  then  a  chapel  of  ease,  was  erected 
into  a  parish  church  by  the  General  Assembly  in  1834, 
and  so  continued  for  a  short  time,  though,  from  the 
scattered  residences  of  the  congregation,  it  was  found 
impossible  to  assign  to  it  any  particular  district ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  paid  from  the  seat-rents  and 
collections.  The  church  was  built  in  1798,  at  an  ex- 
pense of  £2400,  raised  by  subscription,  and  repaired  in 
1814  and  1820,  at  a  cost  of  £600  ;  it  is  a  neat  struc- 
ture, and  contains  1277  sittings:  the  morning  service 
is  performed  in  the  Gaelic  language,  and  the  after- 
noon service  in  English.  The  church  of  St.  Columba, 
formerly  in  Ingram-street,  but  at  present  situated  in 
Hope-street,  was  also  for  a  time  a  parochial  church  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  averages  £222,  and  the  church, 
built  in  1767,  and  rebuilt  in  1781,  by  subscription,  con- 
tains 1078  sittings.  The  West  Gaelic  chapel  of  Hope- 
street  was  likewise  made  a  parish  church,  in  1835,  by 
act  of  the  General  Assembly ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£300,  paid  by  the  managers  from  the  seat-rents,  and 
secured  by  bond  to  that  amount.  The 'church  was  built 
in  1824,  at  an  expense  of  £4826,  of  which  £300  were 
raised  by  subscriptions  and  donations,  and  the  remainder 
by  loan  ;  it  is  a  handsome  structure,  and  contains  1435 
sittings.  The  various  burying-grounds  in  the  city  and 
suburbs  have,  from  the  great  increase  of  building,  been 
almost  surrounded  with  houses  ;  and  several  that  were 
originally  in  retired  situations  are  now  inclosed  in  the 
very  heart  of  the  city.  To  remedy  this  inconvenience, 
a  spacious  public  cemetery  has  been  formed  by  the  Mer- 
chants' House,  who,  in  1S30,  appropriated  a  portion  of 
their  park,  adjoining  the  cathedral,  to  the  purpose  : 
this  ground,  which  is  called  the  Necropolis,  is  laid  out 
with  much  taste,  and  the  requisite  buildings  are  of  a 
character  harmonizing  with  the  solemnity  of  the  use  to 
which  they  are  applied.  The  situation  of  the  cemetery 
is  highly  picturesque,  overlooking  the  venerable  cathe- 
dral and  the  old  surrounding  burial-ground  ;  the  several 
walks  and  drives  are  beautiful  and  varied ;  and  the 
plants  and  shrubberies,  with  the  various  ornaments  in 
a  diversity  of  styles,  render  the  whole  exceedingly  in- 
teresting and  attractive.  Within  the  cemetery  are,  a 
lofty  pillar  surmounted  with  a  statue,  by  Forrest,  of 
John  Knox,  and  a  handsome  monument  with  a  statue, 
by  the  same  artist,  of  William  Mc  Gavin,  besides  many 
others  :  the  monument  of  the  Reformer  is  seen  for  many 
miles  eastward  of  the  city. 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


Schools  and  Benevolent  Institutions. 

The  Grammar  or  High  School  is  of  great  antiquity, 
and  appears  to  have  been  originally  founded  as  an 
appendage  to  the  cathedral,  and  under  the  immediate 
superintendence  of  the  chancellor  of  the  diocese,  by 
whom  the  masters  were  appointed.  After  the  founda- 
tion of  the  university  it  continued  as  a  distinct  establish- 
ment, though  the  masters  were  frequently  among  the 
number  of  those  who  elected  the  regents  of  the  univer- 
sity, and  examined  the  candidates  for  degrees.  In  1595, 
John  Blackburn,  who  was  master  of  the  grammar  school, 
was  also  lord  rector  of  the  university  :  at  that  period, 
the  scholars  commenced  their  studies  at  five  o'clock  in 
the  morning ;  and  this  practice  appears  to  have  lasted 
during  the  government  of  Blackburn,  who,  on  his  ap- 
pointment to  the  ministry  of  the  Barony  church,  in 
161 5,  resigned  the  mastership.  From  1700,  the  school 
was  occasionally  under  the  controul  of  a  rector,  which 
office  was  abolished  in  1830  ;  and  from  that  time  there 
were  four  masters,  each  of  whom  had  the  entire  charge 
of  his  own  class  for  the  whole  period  of  its  continuance 
in  the  school,  which  was  generally  for  the  term  of  four 
years.  In  1S34,  a  material  change  was  made  in  the 
condition  of  the  seminary  ;  two  of  the  four  masterships 
for  Greek  and  Latin  were  suppressed,  and  in  their  place 
were  substituted  teachers  of  English  grammar,  the 
French,  Italian,  and  German  languages,  writing,  geogra- 
phy, and  the  mathematics.  Its  designation  was  altered 
to  that  of  the  High  School,  and  its  affairs  placed  under 
the  superintendence  of  a  committee  of  the  town-council, 
assisted  by  the  clergy  of  the  city,  and  the  professors  of 
the  university.  The  classical  masters,  who  are  appointed 
by  the  council,  have  each  a  salary  of  £50,  paid  from  the 
funds  of  the  corporation  ;  and  they  receive,  in  addition, 
a  fee  of  13s.  6d.  quarterly  from  each  of  the  scholars,  of 
whom  about  300  are  on  the  average  in  attendance. 
The  buildings  of  the  school,  situated  in  Grey  Friars' 
W3'nd,  becoming  insufficient  for  the  purpose,  were  aban- 
doned in  the  year  17S8,  and  a  handsome  structure 
erected  for  its  use  on  the  north  side  of  George-street ; 
but  this  edifice  was  disposed  of  in  1S2S,  to  the  Ander- 
sonian  Institution,  and  new  schoolrooms  were  raised  in 
John-street.  The  buildiug  in  George- street,  when  used 
as  the  school,  contained  a  hall,  seventy  feet  in  length, 
and  seven  spacious  class-rooms,  with  apartments  for 
the  masters ;  and  behind  the  building  was  a  play- 
ground, comprising  an  area  of  3773  square  yards,  in- 
closed with  a  dwarf  wall  surmounted  by  iron  palisades. 
A  school  is  supported  by  the  Fleshers'  Company,  who 
pay  the  master  a  salary  of  £S0  per  annum,  for  the 
gratuitous  education  of  the  children  attending  it.  There 
are  also  schools  for  the  clothing  and  instruction  of  chil- 
dren, in  connexion  with  some  of  the  charitable  founda- 
tions in  the  city ;  and  in  the  several  parishes  are  paro- 
chial and  other  schools,  affording  education,  either 
gratuitously  or  on  very  moderate  terms,  to  nearly  9000 
children  of  both  sexes  ;  more  than  100  Sabbath  schools, 
in  which  5000  children  receive  religious  instruction  ; 
and  tea  or  twelve  infant  schools,  all  of  which  are  well 
attended.  The  salaries  of  the  parochial  schoolmasters 
vary  from  £25  to  £35,  and  the  amount  of  fees  from 
£30  to  £80  per  annum  ;  and  the  quarterly  payments  of 
the  scholars  from  two  to  fifteen  shillings  each.  A  Nor- 
mal seminary  was  erected  in  1S37,  by  the  Glasgow 
Vol.  I.— 497 


Educational  Society,  for  preparing  teachers  to  practise 
the  system  of  moral,  intellectual,  and  physical  training 
pursued  by  the  society. 

The  Royal  Infirmary  was  established  in  1792,  and 
is  supported  by  voluntary  subscriptions,  and  partly  by 
the  fees  of  students  attending  it  as  a  school  of  medi- 
cine and  surgery.  It  has  a  permanent  fund  of  about 
£16,000  from  accumulated  donations  and  bequests,  and 
is  under  the  superintendence  of  twenty-five  directors, 
consisting  of  the  lord  provost,  the  members  of  parlia- 
ment for  the  city,  the  dean  of  guild  and  convener,  the 
professors  of  medicine  and  anatomy  in  the  universitj', 
and  members  of  the  town-council,  the  Merchants'  and 
Trades'  Houses,  and  the  faculty  of  physicians  and  sur- 
geons, with  ten  others  chosen  by  ballot  at  the  general 
meeting.  The  internal  arrangements  are  under  the 
management  of  two  physicians,  four  surgeons,  an  apo- 
thecary, chaplain,  matron,  and  other  officers  ;  and  its 
general  disbursements  are  about  £3600  per  annum. 
The  building,  erected  in  1792,  partly  on  the  site  of  the 
archbishop's  palace,  is  a  handsome  structure  designed  by 
Messrs.  Robert  and  James  Adam,  of  quadrangular  form, 
consisting  of  a  centre  and  two  boldly-projecting  wings  : 
in  the  centre  is  a  stately  portico  of  Corinthian  columns, 
supporting  an  enriched  entablature  and  cornice,  sur- 
mounted by  a  triangular  pediment,  in  the  tympanum  of 
which  are  the  royal  arms  in  alto-relievo.  The  building, 
which  is  four  stories  high,  is  crowned  in  the  middle  with 
a  spacious  dome  and  lantern,  which  gives  light  to  the 
hall  of  operations.  It  originally  contained  only  eight 
wards,  giving  accommodation  to  136  in-patients;  but, 
being  found  inadequate  to  the  wants  of  the  increased 
population,  it  was  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  four 
wards,  erected  in  the  rear  of  the  building,  at  an  expense 
of  £4000  ;  and  it  is  now  adapted  for  the  reception  of 
220  patients. 

The  Lunatic  Asylum  was  established  in  1S10,  and 
is  under  a  committee  of  management,  of  which  the  lord 
provost  is  president.  It  is  supported  partly  by  sub- 
scription and  donations,  but  chiefly  by  the  payments  for 
the  several  patients,  which  vary  from  eight  shillings  to 
half  a  guinea  per  week,  for  paupers,  according  to  the 
contributions  towards  its  erection  made  by  the  parishes 
from  which  they  are  sent,  and  from  that  amount  to 
three  guineas,  weekly,  for  other  patients,  according  to 
their  rank.  The  internal  ai-rangements  are  superin- 
tended by  a  physician  and  other  medical  officers,  a 
housekeeper,  and  requisite  attendants ;  the  disburse- 
ments average  £2000  per  annum,  and,  one  year,  exceeded 
the  income  by  about  £400.  The  present  buildings,  situ- 
ated about  three  miles  west  of  Glasgow,  have  been  but 
just  erected.  The  old  buildings,  lately  sold  to  the  direc- 
tors of  the  Town's  hospital,  their  situation  not  being 
sufficiently  private,  were  erected  in  1810,  at  an  expense, 
including  the  site,  of  £18,359,  after  a  design  by  Mr. 
William  Stark ;  they  occupy  an  area  of  three  and  a  half 
acres,  and  consist  partly  of  a  central  range  crowned 
with  a  majestic  dome,  and  commanding  an  unobstructed 
view  of  the  several  wards,  which  radiate  from  it  as  a 
centre.  The  dining-rooms,  parlours,  and  bed-rooms, 
in  the  new  building,  for  patients  of  a  higher  class,  are 
spacious  and  well  furnished  ;  and  the  institution  is  con- 
ducted with  minute  regard  to  the  health,  comfort,  and 
recreation  of  all  the  inmates.  The  Magdalene  Asylum 
was  originallv  projected  by  a  society  of  gentlemen  who 

3  S 


GL  A  S 


GL  AS 


purchased  a  site  for  its  erection  behind  the  cathedral ; 
but,  some  difficulties  arising,  the  design  was  not  carried 
into  effect  till  1812,  when  a  more  commodious  site  was 
obtained,  and  the  as3'lum  erected.  The  institution  is 
supported  by  subscription,  and  the  annual  disburse- 
ments average  £600  j  the  inmates  are  employed  in  tam- 
bouring, knitting,  sewing,  making  clothes  for  the  esta- 
blishment, and  in  other  useful  works  suited  to  their 
capacity.  The  building,  to  the  east  of  the  old  lunatic 
asylum,  is  of  neat  appearance,  consisting  of  a  centre 
with  projecting  wings :  it  is  three  stories  in  height, 
and  contains  a  handsome  committee-room,  apartments 
for  the  matron  and  for  thirty-four  inmates,  and  a  chapel 
containing  1 50  sittings.  The  whole  is  surrounded  with 
a  high  wall,  inclosing  an  area  of  about  an  acre,  laid 
down  in  grass  for  the  purpose  of  bleaching  linen,  in 
which  some  of  the  inmates  are  employed.  The  Lock 
Hospital  was  founded  in  1805,  and  is  maintained  by 
subscription  :  the  buildings,  on  the  south  side  of  Rot- 
ten-row, comprise  a  committee-room,  with  rooms  for 
the  housekeeper  and  surgeon,  and  apartments  for  the 
patients.  St.  Nicholas  Hospital  was  founded  in  the 
reign  of  James  III.,  by  Bishop  Muirhead,  who  amply 
endowed  it  for  a  priest  and  twelve  aged  laymen  :  the 
endowment  has,  from  causes  not  known,  been  greatly 
diminished,  and  at  present  produces  only  about  £30 
per  annum,  which  sum  is  distributed,  in  pensions  of 
£3  each,  to  ten  aged  men  by  the  magistrates  and  town- 
council.  The  buildings,  which  had  become  a  ruin,  were 
removed  to  make  room  for  a  street. 

Hutcheson's  Hospital  was  founded  in  1641,  by 
George  and  Thomas  Hutcheson,  brothers,  who  be- 
queathed certain  lands  and  money  for  its  endowment. 
The  money  was  invested  by  the  corporation,  in  con- 
junction with  the  other  trustees,  in  the  purchase  of  land 
in  the  barony  of  Gorbals,  on  which  the  suburb  of 
Hutchesonton  was  built ;  and  the  original  endowment  has 
been  augmented  by  benefactions,  of  which  the  principal 
have  been  10,000  merks  by  Mr.  James  Blair,  £2700  by 
Mr.  Daniel  Baxter,  and  the  half  of  his  heritable  and 
personal  property  by  Mr.  John  Snow.  The  income,  now 
amounting  to  about  £3000  per  annum,  is  partly  dis- 
tributed in  life  pensions  to  decayed  burgesses  of  three 
years'  standing,  and  fifty  years  of  age  ;  and  the  widows 
and  daughters  of  burgesses  are  also  admitted  as  pen- 
sioners. The  hospital  is  under  the  controul  of  the 
magistrates  and  council,  and  the  ministers  of  the  city 
churches.  Connected  with  the  institution,  and  sup- 
ported from  its  funds,  is  a  school  of  eighty  boys,  sons 
of  burgesses,  who  have  been  previously  for  six  months 
in  an  English  school,  and  are  above  seven  years  of  age ; 
they  are  clothed,  instructed,  and  placed  out  as  appren- 
tices with  premiums.  The  buildings  of  the  hospital  are 
situated  in  Ingram-street,  and  consist  of  a  handsome 
range,  rising  from  a  rusticated  basement,  and  orna- 
mented with  Corinthian  columns,  supporting  an  entab- 
lature and  cornice,  and  surmounted  by  an  enriched 
attic  :  on  each  side  of  the  central  entrance  are  niches  to 
receive  statues  of  the  founders,  and  from  the  rear  of 
the  edifice  rises  a  tower,  156  feet  in  height,  crowned  by 
a  pyramidal  spire.  The  great  hall  and  committee-rooms 
are  elegantly  fitted  up,  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
patrons  and  managers  ;  and  adjoining  the  hall  are  the 
buildings  appropriated  to  the  use  of  the  school.  In 
1"?8,  Mr.  George  Wilson,  merchant  of  London,  a  native 
498 


of  this  city,  bequeathed  to  the  magistrates  and  council, 
in  trust,  £3000  for  the  clothing  and  education  of  poor 
boys,  to  which  have  been  added  subsequent  donations  ; 
and  from  these  funds,  forty-eight  boys  are  clothed  and 
instructed  in  the  school  established  for  that  purpose. 
A  bequest  by  Sir  John  Scott,  of  lands,  for  the  appren- 
ticing of  boys,  has,  since  the  improved  state  of  trade 
rendered  the  payment  of  premiums  unnecessary,  been 
appropriated  by  the  magistrates  and  council  to  the 
placing  of  twelve  additional  scholars  in  the  school 
founded  by  Mr.  Wilson,  and  also  in  the  school  of 
Hutcheson's  hospital. 

The  Highland  Society  was  established  by  a  few  gen- 
tlemen of  the  Highlands,  for  the  clothing,  educating, 
and  apprenticing  of  indigent  sons  of  Highlanders  ;  and 
is  supported  by  the  payment  of  £2.  2.  by  each  member 
on  admission,  and  by  annual  subscriptions  and  dona- 
tions. There  are  about  sixty  boys  on  the  funds,  who 
are  clothed,  instructed,  and  apprenticed,  and  to  each  of 
whom,  on  the  expiration  of  his  indentures  with  credit, 
is  given  a  silver  medal.  The  late  Marine  Society,  for  the 
encouragement  of  mariners,  and  the  support  of  the 
widows  and  children  of  seamen,  was  founded  in  1758, 
and  maintained  by  a  payment  of  fourpence  on  each 
ton  of  merchandise  shipped  from  the  Clyde,  a  contri- 
bution of  fourpence  per  month  from  the  wages  of  each 
seaman,  and  occasional  donations  and  bequests.  It 
distributed  about  £150  annually,  in  pensions  of  £3  to 
the  widow  of  a  master,  £2  to  the  widow  of  a  mate,  and 
£1.  10.  to  the  widow  of  a  common  seaman.  The 
Society  of  the  Sons  of  the  Clergy  was  instituted  in  1790, 
by  several  ministers  of  the  Established  Church,  for  the 
relief  of  the  widows  and  children  of  clergymen  who 
might  be  in  indigent  circumstances  ;  and  is  supported 
by  payment  of  £5.  5.  by  each  of  the  members  on  ad- 
mission, by  annual  collections  in  the  churches,  and  by 
donations  and  bequests :  the  society  distributes  an- 
nually about  £200.  Buchanan's  Society  was  established 
in  1725,  for  the  relief  of  indigent  persons  of  that  name, 
or  of  others  descended  from  or  connected  with  the 
clan  ;  it  is  supported  by  payments  of  £5  by  members 
on  admission,  the  produce  of  some  land  and  houses, 
and  by  donations  and  bequests.  The  society,  in  1815, 
founded  a  bursary  of  £25  per  annum,  tenable  for  four 
years,  in  the  university  of  Glasgow,  and  which  was  first 
held  by  a  youth  of  the  name,  a  descendant  of  the 
founder.  Mr.  William  Mitchel,  in  1729,  bequeathed 
£3000,  of  which  he  appropriated  the  interest  to  be 
divided  among  decayed  burgesses  and  their  families  : 
and  in  1741,  Mr.  Robert  Tennent  bequeathed  21,000 
merks,  of  which  he  appropriated  5000  to  the  support 
of  two  schools,  6000  to  the  maintenance  of  three 
widows,  and  10,000  to  be  lent  in  small  sums  to  poor 
tradesmen,  for  five  years,  without  interest.  In  1788, 
Mr.  James  Coulter  bequeathed  to  the  lord  provost  and 
magistrates,  in  trust,  £1200  to  be  distributed  among 
deserving  persons  in  indigent  circumstances,  in  life 
pensions  of  not  less  than  £4,  and  not  more  than  £10 
per  annum.  There  are  also  numerous  other  charitable 
bequests,  friendly  societies,  institutions  for  the  relief  of 
sick  strangers,  and  for  various  pious  purposes. 

The  Town  Hospital  was  originally  established  in  1733, 
in  a  building  which,  though  capacious  and  in  an  airy 
situation  at  that  time,  became,  from  the  increase  of  the 
population,  quite  inadequate  for  the  purpose,  and  was 


G  L  A  S 


G  L  A  S 


soon,  from  the  extent  of  building  subsequently  erected, 
closely  surrounded.  The  directors  consequently  pur- 
chased a  spot  of  land  in  a  more  eligible  situation,  com- 
prising 12,000  square  yards,  surrounded  with  a  wall, 
and  for  which  they  paid  £3000,  and  then  erected  a  new 
hospital  and  workhouse,  at  a  cost  of  £10,000.  These 
buildings,  however,  proving  inadequate  like  the  former, 
the  directors,  in  1840,  purchased  the  building  and  part 
of  the  grounds  of  the  old  lunatic  asylum,  as  already  men- 
tioned in  the  account  of  that  institution.  The  hospital  is 
supported  by  donations  from  the  public  bodies  and  indi- 
viduals of  the  city  and  suburbs,  and  by  an  assessment ; 
and  is  under  the  management  of  a  preceptor,  vice-pre- 
ceptor, and  forty-eight  directors,  of  whom  twelve  are 
chosen  from  each  of  the  four  bodies  of  the  town-council, 
the  Merchants'  House,  Trades'  House,  and  the  General 
Session,  and  who  hold  quarterly  meetings,  at  which 
they  elect  the  various  officers.  The  internal  superin- 
tendence is  conducted  by  a  committee  of  eight  members, 
two  each  from  the  four  bodies ;  there  are  generally 
about  500  poor  in  the  house,  and  600  out-pensioners, 
and  the  annual  assessment  averages  £10,000.  In  1817, 
which  was  a  year  of  peculiar  distress,  in  addition  to 
these  funds  for  the  relief  of  the  poor,  a  subscription  was 
raised,  which  amounted  to  £12,871 ;  and  there  were,  in 
that  year,  5140  families  upon  the  books  of  the  establish- 
ment. Glasgow  confers  the  title  of  Earl  on  the  family 
of  Boyle. 

GLASS,  a  parish,  chiefly  in  the  district  of  Strath- 
bogie,  county  of  Aberdeen,  but  partly  in  Banff- 
shire, 5  miles  (W.)  from  Huntly ;  containing  S86 
inhabitants,  of  whom  321  are  in  the  county  of  Banff. 
This  parish,  of  which  the  name,  in  the  Gaelic  language, 
signifying  "grey,"  is  descriptive  of  the  uncultivated 
portion  of  its  surface,  is  about  eight  miles  in  extreme 
length,  and  five  miles  in  extreme  breadth,  comprising  an 
area  of  nearly  19,000  acres,  of  which  4500  are  arable, 
and  the  remainder  meadow,  pasture,  and  waste.  The  sur- 
face is  diversified  with  hills,  which,  towards  the  west, 
increase  in  elevation,  forming  its  boundary  in  that  direc- 
tion ;  and  it  is  also  bounded  on  the  south  by  a  range  of 
hills,  which  separate  it  from  Gartly  and  Rhynie.  The 
vale  of  Straihbogie  forms  part  of  the  eastern  portion ; 
and  there  are  several  other  fertile  straths  between  the 
hills,  of  which  the  vale  of  the  Doveran  is  the  most  im- 
portant, and  is  inclosed  by  hills  on  each  side,  which 
vary  from  1200  to  2000  feet  in  height  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  river  Doveran,  which  has  its  source  in  the 
hills  of  Cabrach,  flows  in  a  serpentine  course  through 
this  vale,  and,  leaving  the  parish,  eventually  falls  into  the 
Moray  Frith  at  Banff.  From  the  hills  issue  numerous 
springs,  of  which  those  near  the  summit  are  frequently 
dry  during  the  summer,  while  those  at  the  base  flow 
without  interruption  through  the  lower  grounds. 

The  soil  generally  is  a  light  loam,  yielding  chiefly 
oats  and  bear,  with  potatoes  and  turnips ;  wheat  has 
been  sown,  but  has  not  been  productive  of  remunerating 
crops.  The  system  of  husbandry  is  improved ;  the 
farms  are  of  moderate  extent,  not  many  exceeding  150 
acres ;  and  the  farm-buildings,  usually  of  stone,  with 
thatched  roof's,  are  substantial  and  commodious.  Con- 
siderable numbers  of  sheep  were  formerly  reared  in  the 
pastures;  but,  from  great  losses  frequently  sustained 
during  severe  seasons,  a  few  hundreds  only,  of  the 
Highland  black-faced  breed,  are  now  kept;  and  the  pas- 
499 


turcs  are  more  profitably  stocked  with  cattle.  There 
are  a  few  acres  of  natural  wood  ;  and  100  acres  of  land 
have  recently  been  planted  with  pine,  larch,  and  forest 
trees,  to  which  very  large  additions  are  in  contempla- 
tion. The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£1877-  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  presbytery  of  Strathbogie  and  synod 
of  Moray.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £197-  l7->  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per  annum  ;  patron, 
the  Duke  of  Richmond.  The  church,  situated  in  a 
green,  near  the  river,  is  a  neat  plain  structure  contain- 
ing 550  sittings  ;  it  was  built  in  1782,  and  is  in  good 
repair.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place 
of  worship.  The  parochial  school  is  well  attended;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house,  and  an  allow- 
ance in  money  in  lieu  of  garden,  and  the  fees  average 
about  £28  annually. 

GLASSARY. — -See  Kilmichael-Glassary. 

GLASSERTON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Wigton, 
if  mile  (S.  W.)  from  Whithorn;  containing,  with  the 
village  of  Monrieth,  1253  inhabitants.  The  name  of 
this  place  is  thought  to  signify,  in  the  Saxon  language, 
"a  bare  hill;"  and  it  is  supposed  that  the  term  was 
adopted  from  the  number  of  bare  hills  in  the  vicinity. 
Very  little  is  known  of  the  early  history  of  the  parish. 
It  is  said,  however,  that  St.  Ninian,  here  usually  called 
St.  Ringan,  the  founder  of  Whithorn  Priory,  and  first 
bishop  of  Galloway,  resided  for  a  time  in  a  cave  on  the 
shore,  at  Physgill,  for  the  purpose  of  mortification  or 
penance  ;  and  the  cave,  which  is  arched  with  stones, 
is  still  vulgarly  called  St.  Ringan's  cave.  The  present 
parish  was  formed  by  the  union  of  the  lands  of  Glasser- 
ton  and  Kirkmaiden.  The  walls  of  Kirkmaiden  church 
are  yet  in  existence,  on  the  shore,  near  Monrieth  ;  and 
it  is  clear  that  it  was  formerly  a  distinct  parish  ;  though 
when  it  was  united  with  Glasserton  cannot  now  be 
ascertained.  The  parish  is  about  eight  miles  in  length, 
varying  in  breadth  from  one  to  three  miles,  and  con- 
tains 13,477  acres.  It  has  the  parish  of  Mochrum  on 
the  west ;  Sorbie  and  Kirkinner  on  the  north  ;  Whit- 
horn on  the  east;  and  the  bay  of  Luce  on  the  south. 
Its  coast,  which  is  bold  and  rugged,  and  broken  by  nu- 
merous headlands  and  green  peaks,  lies  parallel  with 
the  north  coast  of  the  Isle  of  Man,  the  island  being 
between  sixteen  and  eighteen  miles  south  of  Glasserton. 
The  general  appearance  of  the  country  is  unequal,  the 
ground  presenting  a  succession  of  heights  and  hollows. 
There  is  a  small  lake  near  Castle-Stewart  house,  in  the 
north,  in  which  are  found  eels,  trout,  pike,  and  perch  : 
the  loch  of  Dowalton,  also,  forms  a  small  part  of  the 
boundary  of  the  parish ;  and  the  road  from  Stranraer 
to  Newton-Stewart  intersects  it. 

The  soil  varies  very  considerably  in  different  parts. 
On  the  lands  in  the  north  it  is  damp  and  poor,  having  a 
tenacious  subsoil  of  till,  which  holds  the  moisture  too 
near  the  surface ;  in  the  more  southern  parts  it  is  a  gra- 
velly loam,  frequently  mixed  with  clay  and  moss.  Be- 
tween 7000  and  8000  acres  are  under  cultivation  ;  the 
waste  extends  over  about  3000,  and  from  200  to  300 
are  planted.  The  crops  follow  the  rotation  of  oats  ; 
potatoes  or  turnips;  rye-grass  and  clover,  with  wheat 
and  barley;  and  a  crop  of  hay  ;  after  which  the  ground 
returns  to  pasture.  Agriculture  has  been  much  im- 
proved within  the  last  thirty  years,  especially  since  the 
practice  of  raising  green  crops  became  general.     Much 

3  S  2 


GL  A  S 


GL  A  S 


moss  and  heath  have  been  brought  into  cultivation  ;  arid 
the  natural  obstacles  to  good  farming  arising  from  the 
nature  of  the  soil  have  been  successfully  treated  by 
skill  and  perseverance.  The  proper  application  of 
manure,  and  the  attention  paid  to  divisions  and  inclo- 
sures,  have  also  contributed  to  produce  a  highly- 
advanced  state  of  husbandry,  and  have  amply  rewarded 
the  labour  of  the  cultivator.  Dairy-farming  is  pursued 
in  man}'  parts  in  preference  to  breeding,  on  account  of 
its  greater  profit ;  the  cows  are  chiefly  the  Ayrshire. 
The  sheep  in  most  repute  are  the  Leicesters  and  the 
Highland  breed ;  a  few,  purchased  at  Falkirk,  are  fat- 
tened on  turnips  during  the  winter.  The  cattle  are  the 
black  Galloways,  for  which  the  parish  has  always  been 
famous.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  Glasserton  is 
£8519.  The  subsoil  of  the  lands  is  for  the  most  part 
strong  till  and  rock,  clay,  and  gravel,  presenting  many 
impediments  to  agricultural  improvement,  which  can 
only  be  successfully  met  by  a  highly-efficient  system  of 
husbandry  :  the  strata  are  the  greywacke  rock,  among 
which  a  piece  of  granite  is  occasionally  found.  In  the 
parish  are  the  mansions  of  Glasserton  and  Physgill,  both 
handsome  modern  erections. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  governed  by  the  pres- 
bytery of  Wigton  and  synod  of  Galloway,  and  the 
patronage  is  in  the  Crown  :  the  stipend  of  the  minister 
is  £202,  with  a  good  manse,  built  in  1818,  and  a  glebe 
of  fifteen  acres,  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The  church 
is  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  its  situation,  in  Glasser- 
ton park,  a  tract  of  150  acres  thickly  spread  with  orna- 
mental plantations,  among  which,  in  different  directions, 
a  variety  of  single  trees  majestically  rise,  giving  a  bold 
relief  to  the  picturesque  scenery.  The  edifice,  erected  in 
the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth  century,  was  repaired, 
and  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  an  aisle  and  a  hand- 
some tower,  in  1836,  and  now  contains  400  sittings. 
There  is  a  parochial  school,  the  master  of  which  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  and  about  £20  fees,  with  a  good  house, 
built  in  1825.  Another  school  is  supported,  the  mas- 
ter of  which  has  a  salary  of  £15,  and  fees;  the  salary 
arises  from  the  gratuities  of  two  ladies,  and  the  school 
and  master's  house  stantl  on  land  granted  by  the  Earl 
of  Stair  rent-free.  The  poor  have  the  interest  of  two 
sums,  one  of  £100,  and  the  other  of  £60.  Not  long 
since  was  discovered,  in  a  marl-pit  on  the  estate  of 
Castlewig,  in  Whithorn  parish,  but  near  the  border  of 
Glasserton,  the  head  of  a  urus,  which  was  sent  to  Sir 
Walter  Scott,  and  is  yet  to  be  seen  at  Abbotsford. 

GLASSFORD,  a  parish,  in  the  Middle  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark,  2|  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Strathaven  ; 
containing,  with  the  villages  of  Westquarter  and  Chapel- 
ton,  1736  inhabitants.  This  parish,  which  is  bounded  on 
the  south  by  the  river  Avon,  is  not  distinguished  by  any 
events  of  historical  importance.  It  is  about  eight  miles 
in  length,  and  of  very  irregular  form,  varying  in  breadth 
from  nearly  four  miles  to  two  at  its  extremities,  and  to 
half  a  mile  at  the'  centre ;  it  comprises  5598  Scottish 
acres,  which,  with  the  exception  of  about  500  acres,  are 
generally  arable,  and  in  a  state  of  profitable  cultivation. 
The  surface  is  uniformly  level,  though  having  a  gradual 
ascent  to  a  considerable  elevation;  and  consists  partly 
of  dales  extending  along  the  lower  parts  of  the  parish, 
towards  the  south,  and  partly  of  moors.  The  soil  is 
various,  being  in  different  parts  moss,  clay,  and  light 
loam  :  of  the  moss  some  small  portion  has  been  im- 
500 


proved,  and  of  the  remainder  it  is  probable  that,  from 
the  rapid  advance  of  agriculture,  the  greater  part  will 
be  brought  into  cultivation.  The  principal  crops  are, 
oats,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  attempts  have  been  made 
of  late  to  raise  wheat,  and  with  tolerable  success,  but 
hitherto  a  small  tract  only  has  been  sown  for  that  pur- 
pose. A  considerable  portion  of  land  is  in  pasture,  and 
great  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  sheep  and  cattle, 
of  which  the  latter  are  mostly  of  the  Ayrshire  breed. 
There  is  but  little  wood  ;  the  plantations  are  chiefly  of 
beech,  ash,  and  fir.  The  lands  are  in  general  well  in- 
closed, except  in  the  moorland  districts;  and  the  fences, 
which  are  usually  of  thorn  and  beech,  have  of  late  been 
much  attended  to,  and  are  well  kept  up  :  the  farm- 
houses, also,  many  of  which  are  of  recent  erection,  are 
substantial  and  comfortable.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £6*00. 

Freestone  is  found  in  different  parts  ;  near  the  village 
of  Westquarter  are  three  quarries  of  excellent  quality, 
and  there  is  also  one  at  a  place  called  Flatt,  all  of  which 
are  in  operation,  affording  employment  to  several  men, 
and  supplying  abundant  material  for  building.     Lime- 
stone is  also  prevalent,  and  lime-kilns  on  an  extensive 
scale   have   been  established   in    the    moors,   providing 
plenty  of  lime  for  manure  :   coal  is  found  in  some  parts, 
and  at  Crutherland  works  have  been  opened  on  a  limited 
scale,   for  the   supply  of  that   estate.     A  considerable 
number  of  females  are  employed  in  weaving,  and  on  the 
bank  of  the  river  Avon  are  a  flour  and   an  oat  mill. 
Communication  is  maintained  with  Strathaven  and  other 
market-towns  by  means  of  good  turnpike-roads,  of  which 
one,  from  that  town  to  Glasgow,  by  East  Kilbride,  and 
also  one  to  Hamilton,  pass  through  the  parish.     Glass- 
ford  is   in  the   presbytery  of  Hamilton   and  synod   of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  patronage  of  Lady  Mary  Mont- 
gomerie ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £256.  17.  11.,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  nine  acres  of  rich  land.     The 
parish  church,  situated  in  the  village  of  Westquarter, 
nearly  at  one  extremity  of  the  parish,  was  erected  in 
1820,  and  is  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  560  persons. 
A  handsome  church,  with  a  spire,  was  erected  on  the 
Church-extension    principle  in   1839,  in  the  village  of 
Chapelton,  about  three  miles  from  the  parish  church. 
There  is  also  a  place  of  worship  for  the  Free  Church. 
A  female  society  for  the  promotion  of  religious  objects 
was  formed  in  1835,  and  a  parochial  library  has  been  esta- 
blished.    The  parochial  school,  situated  at  Westquarter, 
affords  education  to  a  considerable  number ;   the  salary 
of  the  master,  of  which  a  portion  has  been  assigned  to 
the   masters  of  two  branch  schools,  is  £25.  13.,  with 
£35  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.     The  branch  schools 
are  in  the  village  of  Chapelton    and  at  Millwell :   the 
former  is  endowed  with  £5.  11.;  and  the  latter  with 
£2.  15.   6.,  a  house  and  garden  given  by  Lady  Mont- 
gomerie,  and  the  sum  of  £3  from  the  parish.     About 
300   children   attend  three  Sabbath  schools,  of  which 
one  is  at  Westquarter,  and  another  at  Chapelton  ;    and 
there  is  also  a  class  of  adults.     On  the  lands  of  Avon- 
holm  are  the  remains  of  a  cromlech,  consisting  of  three 
upright  stones.     Within  the  last  few  years  there  were, 
near  Hallhill  House,  some  ruins  of  an  ancient  castle, 
which  have  been   wholly  removed  by  the  proprietor  ;   it 
appears  to  have  been  a  very  strong  fortress,  capable  of 
containing  more  than  100  men,  and  was  probably  a  safe 
retreat  in  times  of  danger.    There  are  still  some  remaius 


GLEN 


GLEN 


of  the  original  church  and  steeple  in  the  grave-yard,  in 
which  is  also  a  tomb  inscribed  to  William  Gordon,  of 
Earlston,  in  Galloway,  who  was  shot  by  a  party  of 
dragoons  on  his  way  to  Bothwell  Bridge,  in  1679. 

GLEMSHOLM  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  South  Ro- 
naldshay,  county  of  Orkney.  This  is  a  small  islet 
lying  northward  of  the  island  of  Burray,  from  which  it 
is  distant  about  half  a  mile  :  it  is  nearly  a  mile  in  length 
and  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  is  appropriated  to  the 
pasturage  of  cattle  and  sheep. 

GLEN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Falkirk,  county 
of  Stirling  ;   containing  98  inhabitants. 

GLEN  ARY,  Argyll. — SeelNVERARvandGLENARY. 
GLENBERVIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Kincar- 
dine, 7  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Stonehaven  ;  containing 
1*296  inhabitants,  of  whom  397  are  in  the  village  of 
Drumlithie.  This  parish,  which  obviously  derives  its 
name  from  the  situation  of  its  church  in  a  small  glen 
on  the  north-eastern  bank  of  the  river  Bervie,  is  totally 
unconnected  with  any  event  of  historical  importance. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  hills  of  Strachan 
and  Durris,  forming  part  of  the  lower  range  of  the 
Grampians  ;  and  is  about  six  miles  and  a  half  in  length 
and  five  in  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  13,000  acres, 
of  which  5000  are  arable,  185  woodland  and  plantations, 
and  the  remainder  meadow,  pasture,  high  moorland, 
and  waste.  The  surface  is  varied,  and  naturally  divided 
into  three  districts,  of  which  that  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  is  level,  and  separated  from  the  middle  district 
by  a  deep  ravine;  the  northern  district  includes  a  low 
and  narrow  ridge  of  the  Grampians.  The  rivers  are,  the 
Bervie,  which  has  its  source  in  the  hills  to  the  north- 
west, and,  taking  an  eastern  course,  flows  along  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  parish  into  that  of  Arbuthnott; 
the  Carron,  which  rises  in  the  hills  near  the  west  of  the 
glen  of  Bervie,  and  runs  eastward  towards  Fetteresso  ; 
and  the  Cowie,  which  has  its  source  in  the  hills  to  the 
north  of  the  parish,  and  flows  through  Fetteresso  into 
the  bay  of  Cowie,  near  Stonehaven. 

The  soil  is  various;  in  the  district  along  the  Bervie, 
early,  and  pretty  fertile ;  in  the  middle  district,  light  and 
cold  towards  the  west,  but  more  productive  towards  the 
east ;  and  in  the  northern  district  are  some  tracts  of 
good  arable  land,  with  a  large  extent  of  heath  and  moor, 
The  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  and  bear,  with  potatoes  and 
turnips  ;  the  system  of  husbandry  is  in  a  very  advanced 
state,  and  all  the  improvements  in  the  construction  of 
agricultural  implements  have  been  adopted.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5147.  There  is  but 
little  wood ;  and  the  few  plantations  that  have  been 
formed  are  of  recent  growth,  and  of  very  limited  extent. 
Glenbervie  House  is  a  plain,  ancient  building.  The 
only  village  in  the  parish  is  Drumlithie,  which  is  chiefly 
inhabited  by  weavers,  and  persons  employed  in  the 
usual  handicraft  trades  requisite  for  the  supply  of  the 
neighbourhood.  The  linens  woven  here  are  principally 
of  the  coarser  kinds,  mostly  Osnaburghs  and  sheeting, 
in  which  about  eighty  persons  are  engaged.  A  fair  is 
held  in  the  village,  for  the  sale  of  cattle,  generally  about 
the  second  week  in  October.  Facility  of  communica- 
tion is  maintained  by  good  roads,  of  which  the  high 
road  from  Perth,  through  Strathmore,  to  Aberdeen  passes 
near  the  village ;  and  at  Stonehaven  agricultural  pro- 
duce is  shipped  for  the  London  market.  The  ecclesias- 
tical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presby- 
501 


tery  of  Fordoun  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £231,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £7.  5.  per  annum ;  patrons,  the  family  of 
Nicholson.  The  church,  a  neat  plain  structure  erected 
in  the  year  1826,  contains  700  sittings.  The  parochial 
school  is  well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £30, 
with  a  house,  and  £2.  2.  in  lieu  of  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  £15  per  annum.  This  place  gave  the  title  of 
Baron,  in  the  peerage  of  Ireland,  to  the  Right  Hon. 
Silvester  Douglas,  created  Lord  Glenbervie  in  1S00  ; 
but  it  became  extinct  at  his  lordship's  death. — See 
Drumlithie. 

GLENBUCK,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Muirkirk, 
district  of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr,  3|  miles  (N.  E.  by  E.) 
from  Muirkirk  ;  containing  237  inhabitants.  This  place, 
which  is  situated  in  the  extreme  east  of  the  parish,  and 
north  of  the  high  road  from  Muirkirk,  was  an  appen- 
dage to  considerable  iron-works,  erected  in  179-t,  by  an 
English  company ;  but  these  works  having  been  discon- 
tinued in  1813,  the  village  has  since  fallen  greatly  into 
decay.  The  Ayr  river  flows  at  a  short  distance  on  the 
south  ;  and  connected  with  it  are  two  artificial  lakes  or 
reservoirs,  which  were  formed  about  1802,  by  the  Messrs. 
Finlay,  of  Glasgow,  to  supply  their  cotton-factories  at 
Catrine,  in  the  parish  of  Sorn.  In  the  village  is  a 
school. 

GLENBUCKET,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Alford, 
county  of  Aberdeen,  2  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Strathdon, 
on  the  road  to  Aberdeen  ;  containing  542  inhabitants. 
This  place  is  supposed  to  derive  its  name  from  the  stream 
of  Bucket,  which,  rising  among  lofty  mountains,  inter- 
sects the  parish,  and  falls  into  the  Don  near  the  castle 
of  Glenbucket,  the  seat  of  the  Gordons  of  Glenbucket. 
The  last  laird  of  this  ancient  family  espoused  the  cause 
of  the  Stuarts,  and  held  a  distinguished  command  in 
1715  and  1745:  he  was  consequently  compelled  to 
make  his  escape  to  France,  when  a  very  aged  man,  after 
the  fatal  battle  of  Culloden.  The  length  of  the  parish 
is  about  ten  miles,  and  its  breadth  about,  two  and  a 
half;  it  contains  upwards  of  12,000  acres,  of  which 
1000  are  arable,  200  planted,  and  there  is  some  good 
pasture  and  meadow  land.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north- 
east by  the  parish  of  Cabrach  ;  on  the  north-west  by 
Banffshire  ;  on  the  south-east  by  the  parish  of  Fowie  ; 
and  on  the  south  by  Strathdon.  The  district  is  alto- 
gether mountainous,  and  is  entered  from  the  east  by 
only  a  narrow  and  romantic  pass,  commencing  at  the 
confluence  of  the  rivers  Don  and  Bucket  below  the  castle, 
which  stands  on  the  acclivity  of  the  hill  of  Benneaw, 
rising  1800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  greatest 
elevation  is  the  hill  of  Craigenscore,  on  the  north,  the 
height  of  which  is  about  2000  feet.  The  climate  is 
subject  to  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  the  summers 
being  sometimes  intensely  hot,  and  the  winters  bringing 
keen  north  winds,  deep  snows,  and  sharp  and  long- 
continued  frosts.  The  soil  is  in  general  good,  and  the 
improved  system  of  husbandry  is  adopted ;  yet  the 
deficiencies  in  draining,  inclosing,  and  planting,  and  the 
want  of  roads,  form  great  obstacles  to  rapid  advances 
in  prosperity.  The  produce  of  the  farms  is  usually  sent 
to  the  markets  of  Aberdeen.  The  rocks  consist  of 
granite,  gneiss,  &c,  with  several  others  of  the  primitive 
formation  :  there  is  a  good  supply  of  superior  limestone, 
which  is  wrought  to  advantage  by  the  tenants,  both 
for  their  own  use  and  for  sale.     The  inhabitants  are  all 


GLEN 


GLEN 


employed  in  agriculture  :  the  parish  is  the  property  of 
the  Earl  of  Fife,  and  its  rateable  annual  value  amounts 
to  £9S9.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the 
presbytery  of  Alford  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  patron, 
the  Crown.  The  stipend  is  £158,  of  which  £125  are 
drawn  from  the  exchequer  ;  there  is  an  excellent  manse, 
with  a  glebe  of  about  £10  value.  The  church,  built 
about  fifty-five  years  since,  is  a  plain  commodious 
edifice.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  the  master  of 
which  has  the  medium  legal  salary,  school  fees,  a  house 
and  garden,  with  three  acres  of  land.  The  parish  also 
contains  a  parochial  library.  Burnett's  mortification, 
shared  in  by  all  the  parishes  in  the  synod,  and  of  which 
no  parish  can  receive  more  than  £50,  nor  less  than  £20, 
comes  to  Glenbucket  about  once  in  eight  years.  The 
old  castle,  now  nearly  in  ruins,  is  a  highly  picturesque 
object. 

GLENCAIRN,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dum- 
fries, 13§  miles  (N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Dumfries  ;  con- 
taining, with  the  villages  of  Dunreggan,  Kirkland,  and 
Minnyhive,  2094  inhabitants.  The  parish  is  about  fif- 
teen miles  long,  and  three  and  a  half  broad,  and  contains 
above  35,000  acres ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Tynron  parish,  on  the  south  by  Dunscore,  on  the  east 
by  Keir,  and  on  the  west  by  Balmaclellan  and  Dairy. 
The  surface  is  diversified  by  numerous  hills  and  valleys, 
by  wood  and  water.  The  hills  extend  in  ranges  from 
east  to  west,  rising  from  1000  to  1500  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea ;  the  higher  parts  are  covered  with 
heath,  but  the  rest  is  generally  spread  with  good 
green  pasture.  The  valleys  are  highly  cultivated,  and 
produce  crops  of  grain.  On  account  of  its  proximity 
to  the  high  hills  on  the  west,  the  parish  has  a  moist 
atmosphere ;  and  it  suffers  frequently  from  violent 
inundations  caused  by  copious  rains,  which  bring  great 
mischief  to  the  low  grounds.  There  is  a  lake  about 
three  miles  in  circumference,  and  four  or  five  fathoms 
deep,  abounding  with  pike  and  a  large  kind  of  trout  ; 
the  water  has  a  black  hue,  on  account  of  the  mossy 
ground  in  the  neighbourhood.  Three  streams,  named 
Castlefairn,  Craigdarroch,  and  Dalwhat,  rise  in  the 
western  hills,  and,  meeting  a  little  below  the  village  of 
Minnyhive,  form  one  stream,  which  takes  the  appella- 
tion of  Cairn.  This  river  has  a  course  of  sixteen  miles, 
and  then  joins  the  Nith,  about  a  mile  above  Dumfries, 
and  seven  miles  distant  from  the  Solway  Frith. 

The  soil  in  general  is  light  and  gravelly,  and  adapted 
in  a  superior  degree  for  turnip  husbandry.  About  7000 
acres  are  cultivated,  or  occasionally  in  tillage ;  26,600 
have  never  been  cultivated  ;  and  800  are  under  wood. 
The  crops  of  grain  raised  in  the  valleys  are  very  fine, 
and  the  grounds  are  under  the  most  improved  system 
of  agriculture.  Great  benefits  have  resulted  from  effi- 
cient draining,  and  the  construction  of  embankments  ; 
and  by  the  spirited  and  liberal  support  of  some  of  the 
proprietors,  much  moss  has  been  reclaimed,  and  excel- 
lent farm  houses  and  offices  erected.  The  quantity  of 
arable  land  has,  indeed,  been  quadrupled  within  the  last 
fifty  years  ;  and  the  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
now  amounts  to  £11,138.  The  rocks  are  chiefly  of 
the  transition  class  :  there  is  a  slate-quarry  which  was 
formerly  wrought  to  some  extent,  but  which  has  since 
been  neglected.  The  mansions  are  Maxwellton  House 
and  Craigdarroch  House.  Fairs  are  held  at  Minnyhive, 
in  March,  July,  and  October,  for  the  hiring  of  servants  ; 
502 


and  a  market  for  lambs  has  recently  been  established. 
There  is  a  daily  post ;  and  about  eighteen  miles  of 
turnpike-road  run  through  the  parish,  upon  which  the 
Glasgow  and  Dumfries  coach  travels  three  times  a  week  : 
there  are  four  bridges  on  this  road,  and  six  upon  the 
parish  roads,  and  all  are  kept  in  good  order. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  pres- 
bytery of  Penpont  and  synod  of  Dumfries  ;  patron,  the 
Duke  of  Buccleueh.  The  stipend  is  £280  ;  and  there 
is  a  manse,  with  a  glebe  of  twelve  acres,  valued  at  £18 
per  annum.  The  old  church  contained  only  accommo- 
dation for  500  or  600  persons,  and  was  an  uncomfort- 
able building  ;  a  new  one  has  been  lately  erected  to  seat 
upwards  of  1000  persons.  There  are  also  a  place  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  and  one 
belonging  to  the  United  Secession.  Three  parochial 
schools  are  supported,  in  which  the  classics,  with  the 
usual  branches  of  education,  are  taught ;  the  respective 
salaries  are  £25.  13.,  £17-  2.,  and  £8.  11.,  and  the 
joint  fees  amount  to  about  £54.  There  are  likewise 
two  subscription  libraries  at  Minnyhive,  and  a  congre- 
gational library  belonging  to  Seceders.  The  chief  relic 
of  antiquity  is  a  tumulus  generally  called  the  Moat,  but 
sometimes  the  Bow  Butts,  situated  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  church,  and  supposed  to  have  been  for- 
merly employed  as  a  place  for  the  exercise  of  archery. 
In  the  village  of  Minnyhive  is  a  cross,  erected  about 
163S,  when  a  charter  was  granted,  constituting  the 
village  a  burgh  of  barony,  with  power  to  hold  a  weekly 
market. 

GLENCAPLE-QUAY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Caerlaverock,  county  of  Dumfries,  4|  miles  (S.  S.  E.) 
from  Dumfries  ;  containing  268  inhabitants.  The  vil- 
lage is  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Nith,  and 
has  a  small  harbour,  of  which  the  water  is  twelve  feet 
deep  at  spring  tides.  Vessels  bound  for  Dumfries,  to 
which  town  this  port  is  subsidiary,  unload  here  when 
unable,  from  their  burthen,  to  reach  the  place  of  their 
destination  ;  and  much  employment  is  afforded  to  the 
male  population,  as  carriers,  in  consequence.  A  road 
from  the  village  runs  in  a  northern  direction,  and  partly 
along  the  shore,  to  Dumfries.  A  short  distance  hence, 
close  by  the  river,  was  a  cell  or  chapel,  dedicated  to 
St.  Columba ;  and  near  it  is  a  well,  where  persons  who 
drank  of  its  water  usually  deposited  alms. 

GLENCOE,  a  district,  in  the  parish  of  Lismore 
and  Appin,  district  of  Lorn,  county  of  Argyll,  17  miles 
(N.  E.  by  E.)  from  Appin.  This  singularly  wild  and 
celebrated  Highland  vale  is  situated  nearly  at  the  head 
of  an  arm  of  the  sea  called  Loch  Etive,  and  extends 
in  a  north-western  direction  to  Ballichulish,  on  Loch 
Leven,  a  distance  of  about  ten  miles.  From  the  latter 
point,  the  western  line  of  the  Highland  military  road 
passes  through  the  extensive  and  valuable  slate-quarries 
in  that  quarter,  and  then  turns  up  the  dark  vale  of 
Glencoe.  The  scenery  of  this  vale  is  in  many  respects 
different  from  that  of  other  Highland  glens.  It  forms 
a  narrow  strip  of  rugged  territory,  along  whicli  flows 
the  wild  and  rapid  stream  of  the  Coe ;  and  on  each  side 
of  the  banks  of  this  stream,  stupendous  hills  shoot 
almost  perpendicularly  upwards  to  the  height  of  per- 
haps 2000  feet,  terminating  either  in  cragged  summits 
or  in  spires  and  cones  ;  while  numerous  torrents  descend 
from  the  heights  at.  intervals,  increasing  the  awful  gran- 
deur of  the  scene.    The  mountainous  elevations  seem  as 


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GLEN 


if  composed  of  huge  disjointed  rocks  heaped  one  upon 
another,  and  appear  to  be  in  danger  of  falling  every 
moment,  and  of  filling  the  dismal  chasm  below  with 
their  crumbling  materials.  In  some  places,  the  oppo- 
site ranges  approach  so  near  as  almost  to  exclude  the 
sun  from  the  vale,  even  when  at  its  greatest  height  in 
June.  Where  accessible,  the  hills  afford  tolerable  pas- 
ture for  sheep  ;  but  in  various  parts,  particularly  on  the 
south  side  of  the  glen,  no  foot  has  ever  trod,  and  the 
eagle  and  his  feathered  subjects  are  the  only  visitants. 
At  its  south-eastern  extremity,  the  vale  is  bounded  by 
the  mountain  called  Buchael-Etive. 

Glencoe  is  famous  as  the  birthplace  of  the  poet  Ossian, 
by  whom  many  of  the  mountains,  and  the  wild  scenery 
of  the  district,  are  accurately  described  ;   and  it  were  to 
be  wished  that  the  celebrity  of  the  vale  were  confined 
to  the  martial  deeds  of  Fingal  and  his  heroes.     But  the 
place  is  also  memorable  for  one  of  the  most  barbarous 
and  bloody  crimes  that  have  been  committed  in  a  mo- 
dern age,  or  have  ever  been  sanctioned  by  any  regular 
and  civilized  government ;  that  known  as  the  "  massacre 
of  Glencoe."     It  appears  that  William  III.,  of  England, 
had  published   a  proclamation  inviting  the  Highlanders 
who  had  been  in  arms  for  James  VII.,  to  accept  of  a 
general   amnesty  before  the   1st   of  January,  1691,  on 
pain    of  military  execution    after  that  time.     Mackian 
Macdonald,  laird    of  Glencoe,   in  accordance  with   this 
invitation,  repaired  to  Fort-William  on   the  very  last 
day  of  December,  and  offered  to  surrender  to  the  gover- 
nor of  that  fortress,  by  whom,  however,  he  was  informed 
that  he   should   apply  to  the  civil  magistrates.     Upon 
this   intimation,  he   set  out  with   all  possible  haste   to 
Inverary,  the  county  town,  and  there  surrendered  him- 
self to  the  sheriff,  the  time  prescribed  for  submission 
having  been  exceeded  by  only  a  single  day.     The  she- 
riff, in  consequence  of  his  previous  offer  to  the  governor 
of  Fort-William,  and  moved  by  Macdonald's  entreaties 
and  suppliant  manner,  agreed  to  accept  his  oath  of  alle- 
giance, and  to  certify  to  the  unavoidable  cause  of  the 
delay  from   the   snows  and  other  interruptions   on  the 
road ;    and  the    confiding   laird    returned   to    Glencoe, 
assured  of  security  and  protection.     But  an  exteiisive 
combination  was,  it  would  appear,  formed  for  his  de- 
struction ;   the  fact  of  his  having  sworn  allegiance  was 
altogether  suppressed,  at  the  instance,  chiefly,   of  the 
president  Stair  and  the  Earl  of  Breadalbane  ;   and  the 
certificate  of  the  magistrate  was  erased  from  the  minutes 
presented  to  the   privy  council.     Early  in  the  month  of 
February,  therefore,  a  party  of  military  under  the   com- 
mand of  Captain  Campbell,  of  Glenlyon,  entered  the  vale 
on  pretence  of  levying  taxes  and  hearth-money ;  the  clan 
became  alarmed  at  their  appearance,  but  on  Macdonald 
inquiring  of  this  officer,  if  his  intentions  were  friendly, 
he  assured  him  upon   his  honour  that  they  were.     All 
apprehension    was    allayed    in    consequence ;     and    for 
nearly  two  weeks,  the  unsuspecting  inhabitants  treated 
their  visiters  with  every  mark  of  attention  and  hospi- 
tality.    The  soldiers  were  comfortably  quartered  among 
them  ;    civilities  were   interchanged  on   both   sides,  and 
even  on  the  night  of  the  dreadful  massacre,  the  13th  of 
February,    Macdonald    and    Campbell    had    played    at 
cards,  the  latter  renewing,  when  retiring,  his  frequently- 
expressed  protestations  of  the  warmest  friendship   for 
his  host. 

The  fatal  order  from  the  executive  in  England  arrived 
503 


in  the  night.     It  directed    an  immediate    and    sudden 
attack  upon  the  defenceless  villagers  while  asleep,  com- 
manded the  passes  to  be  securely  guarded,  to  prevent 
escape ;   and  exhorted  the  military  not  to  suffer  a  man 
under  the  age  of  seventy  to  be  spared  by  their  swords. 
From  some  suspicious  circumstances,  the  sons  of  Mac- 
donald were   impressed  with  a  presentiment  of  danger  ; 
but  this  was   not  the  case  before  they  discovered  the 
approach   of  the  soldiery ;    and  ere  they  could   alarm 
their  father,  the  massacre  was  spreading  through  the 
vale.     A  party  entering  the  house  as  friends,  shot  the 
laird  as  he  rose  from  his  bed.     His  wife  was  stripped 
naked  by  the  assassins,  who  tore  the  rings  with  their 
teeth  from  her  fingers;  and  she  expired  in  the  morning 
from   the  effects   of  grief  and   horror.     A  guest  of  the 
family,  Macdonald  of  Achtrichatain,  who  had  submitted 
three   months  before,  and  who  had  the  royal  protection 
in  his  pocket,  was  among  the  victims.     Nine  men  were 
bound,  and  deliberately  shot,  at  Campbell's  quarters;  his 
landlord  was  shot  by  his  orders  ;   and  a  youth,  who  had 
clung  to  his  knees  for  protection,  was  stabbed  to  death. 
At  another  part  of  the  vale,  the   inhabitants  were   shot 
while  sitting  round  their  fires  ;   several  women  perished 
with  their  children  in  their  arms  ;  a  man  eighty  years 
of  age  was  put  to  the  sword  ;   and  another,  who  had 
escaped   to  a  house   for  concealment,  was  burnt  alive. 
Thirty-eight  persons  were  thus  inhumanly  butchered  by 
their  own  inmates  and   guests.     The  rest,  alarmed  by 
the  report  of  musketry,  mostly  escaped  to  the  hills,  and 
were    preserved   from    destruction    by    a   tempest   that 
added  to  the  horrors  of  the  night,  and  which  was  so 
terrific  as  to  prevent  a  detachment  from  Fort-William, 
of  400   men,  under  Colonel  Hamilton,  from   advancing 
in  sufficient  time  to  complete  the  massacre.    The  women 
and  children  were  spared  from  the  stroke  of  death  ;  but 
it  seemed   as  if  only  to  render  their  fate  more  cruel. 
Such  of  them  as  had  not  died  from  fright,  or  escaped, 
were  turned  out  naked  at  the  dead  of  night,  in  a  keen 
frost,  into  a  waste  covered  with  snow,  six  miles  distant 
from  any  inhabited  place  ;  and  many  of  them  were  found 
dead  or  dying  under  rocks  and  hedges.     The  carnage 
was  succeeded  by  rapine  and  desolation ;  the  houses  in 
the  vale  were  demolished,  and  the  cattle  became  a  prey 
to  the  murderers. 

According  to  Smollett,  the  Earl  of  Breadalbane  had 
borne  a  personal  enmity  to  Macdonald,  and  had,  from 
this  motive,  concealed  from  the  ministry  the  fact  of  his 
submission :  the  order  for  the  extermination  of  the 
whole  clan,  countersigned,  it  is  said,  by  the  king  him- 
self, was  thus  transmitted  to  the  secretary  of  state  in 
Scotland,  and  but  too  fatally  executed.  The  outcry 
against  the  massacre  was  not  confined  to  these  king- 
doms ;  but  resounded,  with  every  aggravation,  through- 
out Europe.  Yet  the  secret  circumstances  relating  to 
it  were  never  sufficiently  examined ;  no  inquiry  was 
instituted  at  the  time,  nor  was  any  punishment  inflicted 
subsequently  upon  its  authors.  On  the  contrary,  it  is 
asserted  that  the  officers  who  were  most  active  in  the 
sanguinary  deed  were  promoted.  The  place  where  the 
massacre  was  chiefly  committed  is  at  the  north-west 
end  of  the  vale  ;  and  the  old  house  of  Glencoe,  still  an 
object  of  horror,  is  now  a  ruin.  Near  the  slate-quarry 
in  Glencoe  is  an  Episcopalian  chapel,  served  by  the 
minister  that  officiates  at  Portnacroish,  in  the  Strath  of 
Appin. 


GLEN 


GLEN 


GLENCROSS,  or  Glencorse,  a  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Edinburgh,  2J  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Peni- 
cuick  ;  containing  708  inhabitants.  This  parish,  which 
consists  of  portions  severed  from  the  parishes  of  Lass- 
wade  and  Penicuick,  in  1616,  derives  its  name  from  an 
ancient  cross  in  the  cemetery  of  the  old  church  of  St. 
Catherine,  now  covered  by  the  water  of  the  Compen- 
sation reservoir.  The  battle  of  the  Pentland  hills,  be- 
tween the  Covenanters  under  Colonel  Wallace  and  the 
king's  troops  commanded  by  General  Dalziel,  took  place 
on  Rullion  Green,  in  this  parish,  on  the  28th  of  Novem- 
ber, 1666,  and  terminated  in  the  defeat  of  the  former, 
with  considerable  slaughter.  Glencross  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  the  parish  of  Colinton,  on  the  east  and  on 
the  south  by  that  of  Lasswade,  and  on  the  west  by  Peni- 
cuick ;  it  is  three  miles  in  length,  and  nearly  the  same 
in  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  about  19*20  acres,  of 
which  16S0  are  arable,  and  the  remainder  hilly  moor- 
land. The  surface  is  beautifully  diversified  with  hill 
and  dale,  and  abounds  with  scenery  of  strikingly  pic- 
turesque character  ;  in  the  northern  district  is  a  consi- 
derable portion  of  the  Pentland  hills,  and  throughout 
the  parish  the  land  is  irregularly  undulating.  The 
Glencross,  or  Logan,  water  has  its  source  in  the  Pent- 
lands,  and,  winding  in  an  eastern  direction  through  the 
parish,  flows  into  the  river  Esk  in  the  parish  of  Glen- 
cross. This  tributary  stream,  in  its  course  along  a 
valley  between  the  Pentland  hills,  has  been  formed,  by 
the  Edinburgh  Water  Company,  at  an  immense  expense, 
into  a  reservoir  for  the  supply  of  the  numerous  mills 
upon  the  Esk,  in  consideration  of  their  having  diverted 
from  that  river,  for  the  supply  of  Edinburgh,  the  power- 
ful spring  of  Crawley,  which  rises  near  the  manse,  and 
discharges  sixty  cubic  feet  of  water  per  minute. 

The  soil  varies  from  a  fine  rich  loam  to  a  gravelly 
and  stiff  clay,  and  is  adapted  for  crops  of  every  kind ; 
the  principal  are,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  tur- 
nips, with  the  various  grasses.  The  system  of  agricul- 
ture is  in  a  very  forward  state  ;  the  lands  have  been 
well  drained  and  inclosed,  in  the  lower  parts  with  hedges 
of  thorn,  and  in  the  higher  with  stone  dykes.  The 
farm  houses  and  offices  are  greatly  improved  in  appear- 
ance ;  they  are  substantial  and  commodiously  arranged, 
and  on  most  of  the  farms  are  threshing-mills.  Much 
waste  has  been  reclaimed  and  brought  into  cultivation, 
yielding  fine  crops  of  grain  by  the  judicious  use  of  lime 
formed  into  a  compost  for  manure.  The  hills  afford 
good  pasturage  for  sheep,  which  are  chiefly  the  black- 
faced,  with  some  of  the  Cheviot  breed,  and  a  few  of  a 
cross  between  the  black-faced  and  the  Leicestershire. 
Plantations  have  been  formed  on  an  extensive  scale,  and 
are  well  managed,  and  in  a  thriving  condition ;  they 
consist  of  almost  every  sort  of  trees,  both  of  hard  and 
soft  wood.  There  are  some  remarkable  specimens  of 
Portugal  laurel  in  the  gardens  of  Logan  Bank,  and  of 
variegated  holly  at  Woodhouselee,  some  of  which  latter 
are  more  than  thirty-five  feet  in  height ;  also  a  silver  fir 
at  Woodhouselee,  which  measures  thirteen  feet  and  a 
half  in  girth,  at  three  feet  from  the  ground.  The  chief 
substrata  are,  coal,  limestone,  sandstone,  clay-slate, 
greenstone,  and  conglomerate  ;  and  the  rocks  are  prin- 
cipally of  porphyritic  formation,  containing  fine  speci- 
mens of  compact  felspar,  calcareous  and  heavy  spars, 
and  agate.  Coal  was  formerly  wrought  in  Glencross  muir ; 
and  the  heavy  spar  was  also  worked  for  some  time,  in 
504 


the  hope  of  finding  copper  or  silver,  but  not  to  any  great 
extent.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5391. 
Woodhouselee,  the  seat  of  James  Tytler,  Esq.,  is  an 
elegant  mansion  beautifully  situated  in  an  ample  de- 
mesne tastefully  laid  out,  and  embellished  with  planta- 
tions :  Bush,  Glencross  House,  Logan  Bank,  Castlelaw, 
and  Bellwood,  are  also  good  mansions.  The  ancient 
house  of  Greenlaw  was  converted  by  government  into  a 
depot  for  French  prisoners  of  war,  in  1803,  and  in  1813 
was  enlarged  for  the  reception  of  7000  men  ;  but,  from 
the  termination  of  the  war  before  the  buildings  were 
completed,  they  were  not  applied  to  that  purpose ;  and 
they  are  at  present  occupied  by  a  small  detachment  of 
troops  from  the  castle  of  Edinburgh.  There  is  no  vil- 
lage in  the  parish,  except  a  few  clusters  of  houses  at 
Milton -Mill ;  the  population  is  entirely  agricultural. 
There  was  formerly  a  distillery  in  the  parish  ;  but  a 
paper-mill,  lately  erected,  and  one  single  meal-mill, 
are  the  only  works  at  present :  a  market  for  sheep 
is  held  on  the  first  and  second  Mondays  in  April,  at 
House  of  Muir.  Facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  good  roads,  kept  in  excellent  repair,  and  by  bridges 
over  the  Glencross  water  and  the  river  Esk  :  the  turn- 
pike-road from  Edinburgh  to  Dumfries  intersects  the 
parish.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale 
and  the  presbytery  of  Dalkeith.  The  minister's  stipend 
is  £156.17.,  of  which  £88  are  paid  by  government; 
patron,  Mr.  Tytler.  The  manse,  about  a  mile  from  the 
church,  was  built  in  IS] 6;  the  glebe  comprises  nine 
acres,  including  garden,  and  is  valued  at  £19.  15.  per 
annum.  The  church,  situated  on  the  summit  of  an 
isolated  hill,  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  was  erected  in 
1665,  and  partly  rebuilt  after  sustaining  damage  from 
fire,  and  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  transepts,  in  1699  ; 
it  was  repaired  in  18-11,  and  contains  180  sittings,  a 
number  very  inadequate  to  the  population  of  the  parish. 
The  parochial  schoolmaster  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a 
good  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about  £20 
annually.  There  are  vestiges  of  an  ancient  camp  at 
Castlelaw,  from  which  that  estate  most  probably  took 
its  name  ;  and  on  an  eminence  near  Marchwell  were, 
till  within  the  last  few  years,  some  very  perfect  remains 
of  a  Druidical  circle ;  but  they  have  been  removed  for 
the  sake  of  the  materials,  which  have  been  used  in  the 
erection  of  a  wall.  The  late  William  Tytler,  Esq., 
author  of  an  inquiry  into  the  evidence  against  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots  ;  his  son,  Lord  Woodhouselee,  author 
of  the  Life  of  Lord  Karnes ;  and  Patrick  Fraser  Tytler, 
Esq.,  youngest  son  of  Lord  Woodhouselee,  and  author 
of  the  History  of  Scotland,  all  resided  on  the  estate  of 
Woodhouselee.  The  late  Rev.  Dr.  Inglis,  author  of 
a  vindication  of  ecclesiastical  establishments,  likewise 
lived  for  many  years  in  the  parish. 

GLENDOVAN,  or  Glendevon,  a  parish,  in  the 
county  of  Perth,  8  miles  (S.  S.  E.)  from  Auchterarder -, 
containing  157  inhabitants.  This  parish,  which  is  about 
six  miles  in  length  and  four  in  breadth,  derives  its 
name  from  the  river  Devon,  which  runs  through  it  in 
a  direction  from  west  to  east,  taking  its  course  along  a 
narrow  and  verdant  glen,  and  being  inclosed  by  banks 
of  considerable  elevation.  It  lies  in  the  midst  of  the 
Ochil  hills,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parishes 
of  Blackford  and  Auchterarder,  on  the  east  by  Fossaway, 
on  the   south-east  by  Muckart,  and  on  the  west  and 


GLEN 


GLEN 


south  by  Clackmannanshire  ;  it  comprises  about  6000 
acres,  of  which  not  more  than  100  are  arable,  and  the 
whole  of  the  remainder  rich  meadow  and  pasture  land. 
The  surface  is  varied  by  the  hills,  clothed  to  their  sum- 
mits with  luxuriant  verdure  ;  and  except  about  thirty 
persons  employed  in  the  woollen  manufacture,  for  which 
a  mill  has  been  established  at  Burnfoot,  the  popula- 
tion is  wholly  pastoral.  The  dairy-farms  are  well 
managed ;  and  the  produce  is  sold  in  the  markets  of 
Alloa  and  Stirling,  where  it  finds  a  ready  sale.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  Glendovan  is  £1500.  A  good 
road  has  been  constructed  for  about  three  and  a  half 
miles  through  the  parish,  at  an  expense  of  £5257,  and 
has  been  of  great  benefit  in  facilitating  a  supply  of  coal, 
which  is  plentiful  in  the  immediate  vicinity  :  peat-moss 
is  also  abundant,  and  is  used  to  a  considerable  extent 
for  fuel.  The  Devon,  a  fine  copious  stream,  abounds 
with  excellent  trout,  and  flows  through  a  tract  enriched 
with  pleasingly  picturesque  scenery  :  on  the  south  bank 
is  Glendovan  House,  a  handsome  mansion  commanding 
a  good  view  of  the  glen.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Auchterarder  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling,  and 
patronage  of  the  Crown ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£158,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £20  per 
annum.  The  parochial  school  is  well  conducted ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £15  fees,  and  a  house 
and  garden. 

GLENDUCKIE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Flisk, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife,  3  miles  (E.)  from 
Newburgh  ;  containing  53  inhabitants.  It  is  seated  in 
the  extreme  south  of  the  parish,  a  short  distance  north 
of  the  high  road  from  Newburgh  to  Cupar.  The  ham- 
let is  appendant  to  the  farm  of  Glenduckie,  and  con- 
sists of  the  farm-house  and  twelve  or  fourteen  cottages. 

GLENELG,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Inverness, 
ISS5  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Edinburgh  ;  containing,  with 
the  island  of  Rassay,  2729  inhabitants.  The  name  of 
this  place,  according  to  some,  signifies  "  the  valley  of 
hunting,"  and  according  to  others,  "  the  valley  of  the 
roe,"  each  of  which  descriptions  is  appropriate  to  the 
character  of  the  district.  The  parish  is  about  twenty 
miles  in  length,  and  of  nearly  the  same  breadth.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north-east  and  east  by  the  parish  of 
Glenshiel,  in  the  county  of  Ross  ;  on  the  south-east  and 
south  by  Glengarry  and  Lochaber ;  on  the  south-west 
by  the  lake  of  Morir,  dividing  it  from  Ardnamurchan  ; 
and  on  the  west  and  north-west  by  the  Sound  of  Sleat, 
separating  it  from  the  Isle  of  Skye.  The  coast  is  ab- 
rupt and  rocky,  except  in  the  bay  of  Glenelg  and  in  the 
lochs,  where  good  anchorage  may  be  obtained.  The 
interior  consists  of  three  districts,  named  Glenelg 
Proper,  Knodyart,  and  North  Morir,  which  are  formed 
by  the  intersection  of  two  arms  of  the  sea,  called  Loch 
Hourn  and  Loch  Nevis.  The  surface  is  diversified  with 
hill  and  glen.  In  the  district  of  Glenelg  are  two  valleys, 
through  each  of  which  a  river  runs ;  and  the  inhabit- 
ants reside  partly  in  villages  on  each  side  of  the  streams, 
their  arable  land  extending  along  the  banks,  and  on  the 
acclivities  of  the  hills.  In  Knodyart  the  people  live 
near  the  sea :  North  Morir  is  but  little  inhabited,  being 
rocky  and  mountainous,  and  chiefly  adapted  for  pasture. 
Loch  Hourn  and  Loch  Nevis  are  about  four  miles  wide 
at  the  entrance,  and  are  navigable  for  twenty  miles ;  the 
former  is  celebrated  for  the  beauty  of  its  scenery  and  the 
well-wooded  mountains  rising  from  its  margin.  There 
Vol.  I. — 505 


are  also  several  fresh-water  lakes,  which,  as  well  as  the 
rivers,  contain  a  tolerable  supply  of  fish. 

The  soil  in  Glenelg  proper  is  loamy  and  fertile ;  that 
in  the  district  of  Knodyart  is  much  lighter,  but,  when 
well  cultivated,  produces  good  crops.  The  parish,  how- 
ever, is  chiefly  pastoral,  being  rendered  unfit  for  exten- 
sive agricultural  operations  by  the  rockiness  of  the  sur- 
face, and  by  the  great  quantity  of  rain  to  which  the  lands 
are  subject  at  all  seasons,  exposing  the  farmer  to  con- 
siderable loss.  Sheep  are  the  staple  live  stock,  the  arable 
land  not  being  able  to  supply  a  sufficiency  of  winter 
provender  for  any  other ;  the  few  cattle  kept  are  of  the 
pure  Highland  breed,  and  the  sheep  the  black-faced 
and  Cheviots.  About  2000  acres  are  under  wood  ;  and 
the  rateable  annual  value  of  the  whole  parish  amounts 
to  £6642.  The  rocks  are  chiefly  gneiss,  with  mica-slate, 
quartz,  hornblende,  granite,  syenite,  and  serpentine. 
There  are  also  several  beds  of  limestone ;  but  it  is  not 
wrought,  as  the  scarcity  of  proper  fuel  renders  the 
operation  too  expensive,  and  as  the  shells  which  abound 
on  the  coast  are  found  to  be  a  good  substitute.  Plum- 
bago is  met  with  in  considerable  quantities.  The  only 
mansion-house  in  the  parish  is  that  of  Inverie,  on  the 
property  of  Glengarry,  in  the  district  of  Knodyart ;  it 
is  beautifully  situated  on  the  banks  of  Loch  Nevis.  The 
chief  village  is  Kirkton,  which,  with  its  circumjacent 
scenery,  has  excited  the  admiration  of  most  visiters  to 
this  part  of  the  country,  and  is  conveniently  seated 
upon  a  bay  affording  good  anchorage  with  the  wind 
south-east,  north-east,  or  east.  Its  principal  street  con- 
sists of  slate-roofed  houses,  having  some  good  shops, 
with  numerous  cottages  in  the  vicinity,  these  last,  how- 
ever, being  of  a  mean  description,  and  extremely  dirty  : 
it  is  also  the  site  of  the  parish  church.  The  roads 
leading  from  the  village  are  beautified  with  rows  of 
trees  ;  and  these,  together  with  the  extensive  bay  and 
the  interesting  back-ground,  form  a  very  agreeable  and 
striking  picture.  The  village  of  Amisdale,  situated  at 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  district  of  Glenelg  proper, 
on  the  banks  of  Loch  Hourn,  is  also  rendered  attractive 
by  its  imposing  Alpine  scenery.  There  is  a  herring- 
fishery  connected  with  the  parish,  which  produces  about 
£250  a  year  ;  and  annual  fairs  are  held  in  the  months 
of  May,  July,  and  September,  respectively.  The  inha- 
bitants enjoy  good  means  of  communication.  The  par- 
liamentary road  towards  the  Isle  of  Skye  passes  through 
the  principal  glen  to  the  ferry  of  Kyle  Rhea ;  it  is 
kept  in  good  order,  and  has  excellent  bridges  over  the 
mountain  streams.  A  steam-boat,  also,  visits  the  parish 
weekly,  except  in  the  most  stormy  weather;  and  post- 
offices  have  been  established  under  Lochalsh  and  Fort- 
Augustus. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  pres- 
bytery of  Lochcarron  and  synod  of  Glenelg ;  patrons, 
the  family  of  Baillie,  of  Kingussie.  The  stipend  is  £237  : 
the  manse,  which  was  built  recently,  more  than  a  mile 
from  the  church,  is  a  large  and  handsome  edifice,  beau- 
tifully situated.  The  glebe  is  valued  at  £40  per  annum, 
and  is  of  great  extent,  comprehending  360  acres,  nearly 
thirty  of  which  are  arable,  the  rest  being  pasture  :  this 
tract  was  received  in  lieu  of  the  old  glebe,  which  was 
comprehended  in  a  portion  of  land  sold  to  govern- 
ment for  building  a  fort  and  barracks,  subsequently 
to  the  rebellion  of  1715.  The  church  contains  about 
400   sittings,  and    is    in    good    condition,  having   been 

3  T 


GLEN 


GLEN 


repaired  and  re-seated  about  1827.  In  the  districts  of 
Knodyart  and  Morir,  the  population  of  which  is  almost 
entirely  Roman  Catholic,  a  missionary  labours  under 
the  patronage  of  the  General  Assembly,  also  preaching 
every  third  Sunday  at  Arnisdale,  on  account  of  its  dis- 
tance from  the  parish  church.  Two  Roman  Catholic 
priests  officiate  in  Knodyart  and  Morir.  The  parochial 
school  affords  instruction  in  English  and  Gaelic  read- 
ing, and  sometimes  in  Latin,  with  the  common  branches 
of  education ;  the  master  has  £30  a  year,  with  £9  in 
lieu  of  a  house  and  garden,  and  about  £5  fees.  Other 
schools  are  supported  by  the  General  Assembly's  Com- 
mittee and  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Know- 
ledge. The  chief  relics  of  antiquity  are  two  duns  or 
Pictish  towers,  situated  in  Glenbeg;  they  are  the  finest 
specimens  of  their  class  in  this  part  of  the  Highlands, 
and  are  supposed  by  many,  not  to  be  the  workmanship 
of  any  purely  Celtic  tribe,  but  to  have  been  raised  by 
the  Danes  or  Norwegians.  Glenelg  gives  the  title  of 
Baron  to  the  family  of  Grant,  a  dignity  created  in  1835, 
in  the  person  of  the  Hon.  Charles  Grant,  who  had  been 
representative  in  parliament  of  the  county  of  Inverness 
for  some  years  previously,  and  was  at  that  time  secre- 
tary of  state  for  the  colonies. 

GLENGAIRN,  county  of  Aberdeen. — See  Glen- 
mtjick,  Tullich,  and  Glengairn. 

GLENHEAD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Lochwin- 
noch,  county  of  Renfrew,  2|  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from 
Beith  ;  containing  53  inhabitants.  This  small  village 
is  chiefly  inhabited  by  persons  employed  in  agriculture  ; 
it  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Castle- 
Semple  loch,  and  contains  a  school,  of  which  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £5  per  annum,  paid  by  the  master  of  the 
parochial  school,  and  also  a  house  and  garden  rent- 
free. 

GLENHOLM,  county  of  Peebles. — See  Brotjgh- 

TON. 

GLENISLA,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar, 
10  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Alyth  ;  containing,  with  the 
hamlet  of  Kirkton,  1134  inhabitants.  This  very  exten- 
sive parish,  which  comprehends  the  north-western  por- 
tion of  the  county,  derives  its  name  from  its  situation 
in  a  spacious  and  picturesque  valley  watered  by  the  river 
Isla.  It  is  about  eighteen  miles  in  length,  and  nearly 
six  in  extreme  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  39,776 
acres,  of  which  3960  are  arable,  4500  undivided  com- 
mon, about  500  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  re- 
mainder mountain  pasture  and  waste,  The  surface  is 
strikingly  diversified  :  on  the  north,  the  parish  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  county  of  Aberdeen  by  a  barrier  of  moun- 
tainous elevation,  from  which  extend,  towards  the  south, 
two  ranges  of  nearly  equal  height,  that  bound  the  parish 
on  the  east  and  west.  Between  these  ranges,  for  a 
short  distance  from  the  northern  boundary,  the  surface 
is  divided  into  three  small  vales  by  intervening  ridges  ; 
and  farther  towards  the  south  is  the  height  of  Kilry, 
which  intersects  the  parish  from  west  to  east,  leaving 
only  a  narrow  interval,  through  which  the  Isla  pursues 
its  course.  The  range  of  mountains  forming  the  eastern 
boundary  divides,  for  some  few  miles,  into  three  nearly 
parallel  ranges,  inclosing  two  small  vales  watered  by 
the  rivulets  of  Pitlochrie  and  Glenmarkie.  The  lowest 
of  the  mountainous  ranges  of  Glenisla  has  an  elevation 
of  1400  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea :  towards  the 
north,  they  greatly  increase  in  height,  terminating  in  the 
506 


mountain  of  Glassmile,  3000  feet  high,  on  the  western 
verge  of  which  is  raised  a  heap  of  stones,  whereof  the 
base  lies  in  the  three  parishes  of  Glenisla,  in  the  county 
of  Forfar,  Kirkmichael,  in  that  of  Perth,  and  Crathie,  in 
the  county  of  Aberdeen.  Mount  Blair,  on  the  western 
boundary,  has  an  elevation  of  2260  feet ;  and  from  the 
summit  is  obtained  a  commanding  view  over  the  adja- 
cent district,  with  the  Lammermoor,  Pentland,  and 
other  hills  of  almost  infinite  variety.  The  river  Isla, 
which  has  its  source  in  the  heights  of  Caanlochan,  flows 
in  a  south-easterly  direction,  through  an  extensive  tract 
abounding  with  truly  romantic  scenery.  It  forms  some 
picturesque  cascades ;  and  near  the  bridge  of  Milna 
Craig,  being  arrested  in  its  course  by  immense  masses 
of  projecting  rock,  it  rushes  with  impetuous  violence 
through  its  contracted  channel,  and  falls  from  a  height 
of  eighty  feet  into  a  wide  gulph  beneath.  About  two 
miles  from  this,  again  confined  within  a  narrow  channel, 
scarcely  three  yards  in  width,  by  towering  cliffs  of  pre- 
cipitous rock,  it  forces  its  way  through  a  frightful 
chasm,  and  descends  in  a  torrent  into  a  deep  and  spa- 
cious ravine  lined  on  both  sides  with  walls  of  perpendi- 
cular rocks,  crowned  with  trees  of  every  variety  of  foliage. 
This  pass,  which  is  called  the  Slug  of  Auchrannie,  is 
much  admired  for  the  grandeur  of  its  scenery. 

The  soil  is  partly  clay  alternated  with  gravel,  and, 
though  tenacious  of  moisture,  is,  when  properly  drained, 
productive  of  grain  of  every  kind  ;  the  upper  lands  are 
chiefly  moss,  with  some  portions  of  gravel.  The  crops 
are  mostly  oats  and  barley,  with  the  various  green 
crops,  and  the  hills  afford  good  pasturage  for  sheep  and 
cattle  ;  the  system  of  agriculture  is  improved,  and  the 
rotation  plan  of  husbandry  generally  prevalent.  The 
lands  are  well  drained,  and  partly  inclosed  ;  and  the 
farm-buildings,  many  of  which  are  of  modern  erection, 
are  substantial  and  convenient.  The  cattle,  of  which 
the  annual  number  is  about  1800,  are  of  the  Angus  and 
Highland  breeds;  and  the  sheep,  of  which  nearly  10,000 
are  pastured  on  the  hills,  are  chiefly  of  the  black-faced 
kind.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£4009.  The  plantations,  which  are  of  modern  growth, 
are  larch  and  Scotch  fir,  and  thrive  well.  The  substra- 
tum in  the  south  is  of  the  old  red  sandstone  formation, 
with  some  portions  of  trap  rock  ;  the  sandstone  is  well 
adapted  for  building,  and  there  are  quarries  of  blue 
limestone,  which  is  burnt  for  manure.  Communication 
is  afforded  by  roads  kept  in  repair  by  statute  labour,  of 
which  one  leads  to  Alyth,  where  is  a  branch  post-office, 
and  another  forms  the  Kirriemuir  and  Castletown  road ; 
and  there  are  several  bridges  over  the  river,  two  of 
which  are  of  stone,  one  of  iron,  and  another  of  wood, 
the  two  last  for  foot  passengers  only.  Fairs  for  cattle, 
sheep,  and  horses  are  held  on  the  first  Wednesday  in 
March  and  the  first  Wednesday  in  August,  O.  S.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  presbytery  of  Meigle  and  synod  of  Angus  and 
Mearns ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £159.  12.,  of  which 
about  one-third  is  paid  from  the  exchequer,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £10  per  annum  :  patron, 
the  Crown.  The  church,  erected  in  1821,  and  situated 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  is  a  neat  structure 
containing  700  sittings.  The  parochial  school  is  well 
conducted;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £29.  18.  10., 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  about 
£10  per  annum.     Another  school  is  supported  by  the 


GLEN 


GLEN 


Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge,  who  allow 
the  master  a  salary  of  £16  per  annum.  There  are  some 
small  remains  of  the  castles  of  Fortar  and  Newton, 
ancient  baronial  seats  of  the  carls  of  Airlie;  the  for- 
mer was  destroyed  in  1640,  by  the  Marquess  of  Argyll. 
In  1841,  a  silver  coin  or  medal,  with  a  halt-length  figure 
of  Anselm  Casimer,  Archbishop  of  Mentz,  and  silver 
coins  of  Elizabeth  and  James  VI.,  were  found  in  a  field 
on  the  farm  of  Bellaty. 

GLENLUCE,     county    of     Wigton.— See    Luce, 
Old. 

GLENLYON,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  chiefly  in 
the  parish  of  Fortingai.,  and  partly  in  that  of  Weem, 
county  of  Perth,  12  miles   (W.)   from  the  Kirktown  of 
Fortingai;    containing   570    inhabitants.     This  district 
extends  in  a  western  direction,  from  the  head  of  Fortin- 
gai, nearly  to  the  stage-house  of  Tyndrum,  upon  the 
western  military  road,  a  distance  of  about  thirty-two 
miles.     It  consists  of  a  very  narrow  glen,  the  sides  of 
which  are  formed  of  some  of  the  loftiest  mountains  in 
the  county.     What  is  termed  its   general  level  ground, 
by  the  river  Lyon,  is  seldom  more  than  a  furlong  broad  ; 
and  the  mountains  on   the  north  approach  so  closely  in 
some  places  to  the  opposite   range,  on  the  south,  as  to 
confine  the  struggling  river  to  a   bed  not  much  more 
than  eight   yards    wide.     Numerous   streams,   some   of 
them  four  miles  in  length,  descend  from  the  mountains 
and  swell  the  Lyon  ;  and  this  river,  of  which  the  source 
is  a  lake  of  the  same   name,  after  flowing  in  nearly  an 
eastern  direction  for  upwards  of  forty  miles,  its  tribu- 
taries rendering  it  more  rapid  at  each  confluence,   falls 
into  the  Tay  below  Taymouth  Castle.     In  the  head  of 
the  district  the  soil  is  good  ;   but  the   seasons  are  incle- 
ment, and  the  crops  seldom  attain  to   perfection.     The 
hills,  however,  afford  excellent  pasturage  for  sheep  ;   and 
in  this  respect  Glenlyon  is  exceeded  by  few,  if  any,  of  the 
glens  in  the  Perthshire  Highlands.     In  different  parts 
along  the  vale  are  small  hamlets,  so  secluded  amidst 
Alpine  scenery  as  to  be  deprived  of  the  rays  of  the  sun 
for  a  third  part  of  the  year.     The  means  of  communi- 
cation are  but  indifferent  :   a   carrier  or  runner  passes 
and  repasses  between  Aberfeldy  and  the  extremity  of 
the  glen  three  times  a  week.     The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  under  the  presbytery  of  Weem  and  synod  of  Perth 
and  Stirling,  and  the  patronage  is  vested  in  the  Crown  : 
the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £120,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  of  the  annual  value  of  £2.  10.,  a  privilege  of  cut- 
ting peat,  and  the  summer  grazing  of  two  cows.     The 
church,  situated  in  the  hamlet  of  Innerwick,  was  built 
by  the  heritors,  in  1828,  at  a  cost  of  £6/3,  and  contains 
between  500  and  600  sittings.     A  district  box  for  the 
poor  yields  per  annum  about  £16.     This  place  gave  the 
title  of  Baron,  in  the  peerage  of  the  United  Kingdom, 
to  James,  second  son  of  John,  fourth   duke  of  Atholl, 
who  died  in  1837,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son  George, 
as  second  lord,  now  the  presumptive  heir  to  the  duke- 
dom.— See  Fortingai,. 

GLENMORRISTON,    Inverness.  —  See     Urciu- 

HART. 

GLENMUICK,  TULLICH,  and  GLENGAIRN,   a 

parish,  in  the  district  of  Kincardine  O'Neil,  county 
of  Aberdeen,  16  miles  (W.)  from  Kincardine  O'Neil ; 
containing,  with  the  village  of  Ballater,  2118  inhabit- 
ants. The  compound  Gaelic  term  Glean-miiie,  expres- 
sive of  "  a  valley  frequented  by  swine,"  is  supposed  to 
507 


have  been  applied  to  this  place  from  some  part  of  it 
having  been  formerly  celebrated  for  its  breed  of  swine. 
The  word  Tullich  is  corrupted  from  tulach,  signifying 
"rising  grounds,  or  hillocks,"  and  is  descriptive  of  the 
vicinity  of  the  village  of  Tullich.  Glengairn  is  derived 
from  the  three  words  glean-garbh-amliain,  meaning  "  the 
hollow  or  glen  of  the  rough  water,"  a  term  properly 
applied  to  the  water  of  Gairn,  on  account  of  the  rocky 
channel  through  which  it  pursues  its  course.  The  out- 
line of  the  parish  is  very  irregular,  the  length  in  several 
places  being  eighteen  miles  and  the  breadth  fifteen  miles, 
and  the  average  length  about  fourteen  and  a  half  and 
the  breadth  twelve  and  a  half.  Glenmuick  measures  in 
average  length  fifteen  miles,  from  east  to  west,  and  five 
and  a  half  in  breadth  ;  Tullich,  fourteen  miles  in  length, 
from  east  to  west,  and  seven  miles  in  breadth ;  and 
Glengairn,  eight  miles  in  length,  and  four  in  breadth. 
They  comprise  together  about  115,200  acres,  of  which 
3643  are  under  cultivation,  3185  in  woods  and  planta- 
tions, and  the  remainder  hills,  moss,  and  moor,  afford- 
ing pasture,  fuel,  and  game.  The  surface  in  most  parts 
is  mountainous  and  hilly ;  the  small  portion  under  til- 
lage is  chiefly  in  fertile  straths,  and  on  the  banks  of 
the  rivers.  In  addition  to  several  rivulets  or  burns,  the 
lands  are  watered  by  the  Dee,  the  Muick,  and  the  Gairn; 
the  first  divides  the  parish  throughout  its  whole  length, 
the  district  of  Glenmuick  being  nearly  all  on  its  south- 
ern side,  and  Tullich  and  Glengairn  on  the  northern. 

The  chief  mountains,  which  are  partly  in  contiguous 
parishes,  are,  Lochnager,  Cairutaggart,  Mountkeen,  and 
Morven,  rising  respectively  to  the  height  of  3S14  feet, 
3000  feet,  3126  feet,  and  2934  feet.  The  most  con- 
siderable hills  are  in  ranges,  varying  from  1000  to 
2500  feet  :  that  of  Culblean,  at  the  east  of  Tullich,  ex- 
tends from  Morven,  in  a  southern  direction,  for  six 
miles,  as  far  as  the  river  Dee.  From  the  centre  of  this, 
another  range  runs  westward,  along  the  north  bank  of 
the  Dee,  to  the  valley  of  Gairn;  and,  though  interrupted 
here,  it  rises  again  on  the  west  side  of  the  valley,  and 
stretches  parallel  with  the  Dee  to  the  church  of  Crathie. 
A  third  chain,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Dee,  extends  in 
a  line  with  the  former,  for  about  six  miles,  towards  the 
west;  and,  after  often  changing  its  direction,  and  bound- 
ing several  lochs,  it  reaches  the  parish  of  Braemar,  at 
the  mountain  of  Cairntaggart.  There  are  also  some 
insulated  hills,  of  which  that  called  Craigandarroch,  400 
yards  north  of  the  church,  rises  to  the  height  of  1400 
feet,  and  another,  named  the  Cnoc,  a  mile  west  of  the 
church,  attains  an  elevation  of  1150  feet.  The  ground 
rising  from  the  streams,  where  the  ascent  is  not  too 
abrupt  or  rocky,  is  cultivated  to  the  height  of  between 
100  and  200  feet. 

The  wild  and  romantic  mountain  scenery  of  the  dis- 
trict is  blended  with  many  beautifully  picturesque  fea- 
tures, for  which  it  is  much  indebted  to  its  rivers  and 
lakes.  The  Dee,  rising  in  the  mountains  of  Braemar, 
flows  into  this  parish,  and  receives,  on  its  northern  side, 
at  about  one  mile  and  a  half  north-west  of  the  church, 
the  river  Gairn,  which  has  passed  through  the  district 
of  Glengairn  ;  and  half  a  mile  west  of  the  church,  on 
its  southern  side,  it  is  joined  by  the  Muick,  a  stream  re- 
markable for  the  beautiful  cascade  called  the  Linn  of 
Muick.  It  then  proceeds  in  an  easterly  course  to  Aber- 
deen, where  it  falls  into  the  sea.  Among  the  lochs, 
that  of  Dhuloch,  at  the  south-western  extremity  of  Glen- 

3  T2 


GLEN 


GLEN 


muick,  is  celebrated  for  its  impressive  scenery  ;  and  its 
water,  which  is  deep  and  cold,  derives  a  sable  hue  from 
the  stupendous  overhanging  cliffs  of  Craigdhuloch,  which 
rise  on  its  southern  shore  above  ]000  feet  in  height. 
A  mountain  rivulet  falls  into  it  from  a  considerable 
elevation,  over  a  rock,  on  the  north;  and  a  small  stream, 
called  by  its  own  name,  runs  out  of  it,  in  an  eastern 
course,  forming  several  cascades,  and,  at  the  distance  of 
a  mile  and  a  half,  losing  itself  in  Loch  Muick.  This  lake 
is  situated  in  the  midst  of  romantic  scenery,  and  is 
closely  girt  by  the  mountain  of  Lochnagar  on  the  north, 
and  a  lofty  range  of  the  Grampians  on  the  south  and 
west.  The  loch  of  Cannor,  about  three  miles  round, 
and  lying  at  the  base  of  Culblean,  in  the  district  of 
Tullich,  is  also  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  richly  orna- 
mented with  birch-wood,  and  interspersed  with  small 
islands.  On  one  of  these  once  stood  a  fortress,  sup- 
posed to  have  been  built  as  a  hunting-seat  by  Malcolm 
Canmore ;  and  not  far  from  the  loch  is  a  curious  exca- 
vation, called  "the  Vat"  on  account  of  its  shape,  it 
being  nearly  circular,  measuring  at  the  bottom  about 
twelve  feet  in  diameter,  and  gradually  increasing  to  the 
top.  A  stream  falls  into  it  from  the  height  of  thirty 
feet ;  and  the  hollow  is  supposed  to  have  been  gradually 
wrought  by  the  pebbles  driven  round  it,  for  ages,  by 
the  rapid  and  incessant  action  of  the  water.  Salmon 
are  found  in  the  rivers  ;  and  the  lochs  are  well  stocked 
with  eels,  pike,  par,  and  trout. 

The  soil  is  in  general  shallow  and  dry,  in  some  parts 
sandy,  in  others  gravelly :  the  grain  chiefly  cultivated 
is  oats  and  bear,  and  most  kinds  of  green  crops  are 
raised.  The  sheep  are  the  black-faced,  occasionally 
crossed  with  other  sorts ;  the  cattle  are  the  small  native 
breed,  mixed  with  the  Galloway  and  others.  The  lai'ger 
agriculturists  are  gradually  introducing  the  rotation 
of  crops,  and  other  approved  usages  ;  the  farm-build- 
ings are  tolerably  good,  and  some  tracts  of  waste  land 
have  been  trenched,  drained,  and  brought  under  tillage, 
within  the  last  ten  or  twelve  years.  Embanking  has 
also  been  carried  on  to  some  extent ;  but  the  inclosures 
are  still  deficient,  and  much  is  yet  required  to  raise  the 
parish  to  a  level  with  many  of  the  neighbouring  dis- 
tricts. The  rateable  annual  value  of  Glenmuick,  Tullich, 
and  Glengairn  is  £5745.  The  prevailing  rocks  are, 
primitive  limestone,  gneiss,  and  trap,  of  the  first  of 
which  three  quarries  are  in  operation ;  and  these  rocks 
are  frequently  intersected  with  veins  of  quartz  and  por- 
phyry. Granite  occurs  in  numerous  boulders ;  and 
ironstone  and  bog-iron  are  abundant.  The  natural 
wood  consists  chiefly  of  Scotch  fir ;  the  plantations  are 
of  the  same  wood,  mixed  with  larch,  pine,  mountain- 
ash,  and  others  ;  but  plane,  elm,  and  ash  are  not  found 
to  thrive.  The  mansion  of  Birkhall,  built  in  1715,  and 
thoroughly  repaired  and  enlarged  in  1839,  is  a  beautiful 
residence,  romantically  situated ;  Monaltrie  House  is 
a  modern  structure,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  village,  and 
has  very  superior  flower  and  fruit  gardens  attached 
to  it. 

The  inhabitants  are  engaged  chiefly  in  agriculture ; 
but  many  females  are  employed  in  flax-spinning  and  the 
knitting  of  stockings.  A  post-office,  in  Ballater,  com- 
municates daily  with  Aberdeen  ;  and  there  is  a  good 
commutation  road,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Dee,  to 
Charlestown  of  Aboyne,  where  it  meets  the  Aberdeen 
turnpike-road.  A  substantial  wooden  bridge  of  four 
508 


arches  was  erected  over  the  Dee  in  1834,  "two  excellent 
stone  ones  having  been  previously  carried  away  by  the 
floods,  the  first  in   1799,  and  the  other  in  1829:  the 
present   structure   was  raised   at  a  cost  of  more   than 
£2000,  defrayed  partly  by  subscription,  and  partly  by 
a   grant    from    the    Parliamentary    Commissioners   for 
Highland  roads  and  bridges.     The  farmers  usually  send 
their  corn  and  dairy  produce  to  Aberdeen,  and  the  live 
stock  to  the  Scotch  or  English  cattle-markets.     Fairs 
are  held  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  May,  O.  S.,  the  last 
Tuesday  in  June,  the  second  Monday  and  Tuesday  in 
September,  O.  S.,  and  the  Saturday  before  the  22nd  of 
November  :  those  in  May  and  September  are  for  the 
sale  of  cattle,  horses,  sheep,  and  general  wares  ;  that  in 
June  for  the  sale  of  wool ;  and  that  in  November  for 
hiring   servants.      The    parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Kincardine  O'Neil  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the 
patronage  of  the  Marquess  of  Huntly.     The  minister's 
stipend  is  £237,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at 
£7-  10.  per  annum.     The  church,  built  in    1798,  is  a 
neat  substantial  edifice,  with  a  spire ;   it  is  situated  in 
the  middle  of  a  square  in  the  village  of  Ballater,  and 
has   accommodation   for  about  800   persons.      A  mis- 
sionary,   in    connexion    with    the   Established    Church, 
officiates  in  a  chapel  at  Rinloan,  in  Glengairn,   seven 
miles  from  Ballater,  and,  besides  the  usual  accommo- 
dations, receives  £60  per  annum  from  the  Royal  Bounty 
Committee.     The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a 
place  of  worship ;  and  there  is  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel 
on  Gairnside,  five  miles  distant  from  the  church,  and  a 
second,  a  very  small  one,  in  another  part.     The  paro- 
chial school,  situated  in  Ballater,  affords  instruction  in 
the  usual  branches  ;    the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  a  house,  and  £15  fees,  and  participates  in  the  Dick 
bequest.      There  is   also   a  school  near  the   chapel  in 
Glengairn,  the  master  of  which,  in  addition  to  accom- 
modations, has  £15  per  annum  from  a  bequest  by  Miss 
Farquharson.    The  parish  contains  a  subscription  library 
and  a  savings'  bank.     On  the  moor  near  Culblean  are 
several  cairns,  said  to  cover  the  graves  of  those  who  fell 
in  flight  after  the  battle  of  Culblean,  fought  between  the 
followers  of  King  David  Bruce,  and  those  of  Cummin, 
Earl  of  Atholl,  in  1335.     The  Marquess  of  Huntly  de- 
rives his  title  of  Baron  Meldrum,  of  Morven,  from  a 
place  in  this  parish. — See  Ballater. 

GLENORCHY  and  INISHAIL,  a  parish,  in  the  dis- 
tricts of  Lorn  and  Argyll,  county  of  Argyll,  14  miles 
(N.  by  E.)  from  Inverary ;  containing  1644  inhabitants, 
of  whom  247  are  in  that  portion  of  the  parish  which 
was  till  lately  annexed,  quoad  sacra,  to  Strathfillan  church. 
These  two  ancient  parishes,  which  were  united  in  the 
year  1 6 IS,  derive  their  names  from  the  situation  of  their 
respective  churches,  the  former  in  a  picturesque  glen 
watered  by  the  river  Orchy,  and  the  latter  on  the  beau- 
tiful island  of  Inishail,  in  Loch  Awe.  The  lordship  of 
Glenorchy  was  granted  in  the  fifteenth  century,  by 
James  II.,  to  an  ancestor  of  the  Breadalbane  family, 
whose  descendant,  the  marquess,  is  the  present  pro- 
prietor; the  lands  of  Inishail  are  divided  among  several 
owners,  of  whom  Mr.  Campbell,  of  Monzie,  is  the  prin- 
cipal. The  parish,  which  is  partly  bounded  on  the 
west  by  Loch  Etive,  is  twenty-four  miles  in  length,  vary- 
ing from  five  to  twenty  miles  in  breadth,  and  comprises 
an  area  of  nearly  300  square  miles.  The  surface,  with 
the  exception  of  the  vale  of  Glenorchy  and  the  district 


GLEN 


GLEN 


of  Inishail,  is  hilly  and  mountainous,  abounding  in 
boldly  romantic  scenery.  Of  the  mountainous  ranges, 
the  most  conspicuous  is  that  of  Cruachan,  on  the  north 
and  north-eastern  boundary,  separating  the  parish  from 
those  ofArdchattan  and  Appin,  and  in  which  are  the 
heights  of  Beinabhuiridh,  Stob-au-Daimh,  Beinmacmo- 
naidh,  and  Beindourain.  The  range  extending  from 
the  western  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  Loch  Awe,  along 
the  south  side  of  the  vale  of  the  Orchy,  terminates  at 
the  bases  of  the  mountains  Tighearnan  and  Beinach- 
leidh,  near  Beinlaoidh,  the  highest  mountain  in  the 
parish.  These  ranges  are  in  several  places  broken  by 
intervening  glens,  through  which  run  the  rivers  Orchy 
and  Awe,  which  in  their  course  form  some  pleasing 
cataracts,  flowing  between  banks  densely  wooded  and 
marked  with  features  of  strikingly  romantic  character. 
Both  rivers  abound  with  salmon  and  trout,  and  are 
much  frequented  by  anglers.  The  chief  lakes  are  Loch 
Awe  and  Lochtolla,  which  contain  salmon,  trout  of  large 
size,  eels,  char,  perch,  and  pike,  the  last  of  recent  intro- 
duction. Of  the  former  lake,  only  the  eastern  extremity 
is  in  this  parish  ;  but,  from  the  beauty  of  the  scenery 
on  its  shores,  it  forms  a  very  interesting  feature.  Loch- 
tolla, which  is  situated  among  the  hills  of  Glenorchy,  is 
about  four  miles  in  length,  and  a  mile  in  average  breadth : 
on  the  north  bank  is  a  picturesque  shooting-lodge  be- 
longing to  the  Marquess  of  Breadalbane,  surrounded 
with  thriving  plantations.  There  are  also  several  smaller- 
lakes  in  the  parish. 

The  soil  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers  is  a  mixture  of 
light  earth  and  sand,  and  on  the  sides  of  Loch  Awe  a 
deep  and  rich  loam  resting  on  a  gravelly  subsoil ;  the 
crops  are,  oats,  barley,  bear,  potatoes,  and  turnips.  The 
system  of  husbandry  has  made  considerable  progress  ; 
the  farm-houses  are  generally  substantial  and  well 
built ;  but  the  offices  are  of  rather  inferior  order,  and 
the  lands  only  partially  inclosed.  Embankments  have 
been  raised  on  the  Orchy,  and  the  channel  of  the  river 
Awe  deepened.  The  upland  portion  of  the  parish  is 
purely  pastoral,  and  great  numbers  of  sheep  and  black 
cattle  are  reared  on  the  hills.  The  sheep  are,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  of  the  Cheviot  and  Leicestershire,  all 
of  the  black-faced  breed ;  and  the  cattle  of  the  pure 
Argyllshire  breed,  except  some  Ayrshire  cows  on  the 
dairy-farms.  The  sheep  and  cattle  are  sent  principally 
to  Falkirk  and  Dumbarton,  and  the  wool  to  Liver- 
pool. Though  comparatively  little  remains  of  the  ancient 
woods  with  which  the  parish  formerly  abounded,  the 
lands  are  still  far  from  being  destitute  of  timber,  and 
various  modern  plantations  have  been  formed,  which 
are  in  a  thriving  state,  and  add  much  to  the  beauty 
of  the  scenery.  The  prevailing  rocks  are  mica-slate 
and  gneiss,  with  granite  and  porphyry ;  and  the  sub- 
strata chiefly  clay-slate,  whinstone,  and  limestone,  much 
mixed  with  mica  and  quartz.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  the  parish  is  £SSS6. 

Among  the  seats  is  Inishdrynich  House,  a  handsome 
mansion  beautifully  situated  on  the  north  side  of  Loch 
Awe,  in  a  demesne  richly  wooded,  and  laid  out  with 
great  taste.  New  Inverawe,  about  a  mile  from  Inish- 
drynich, and  also  on  the  banks  of  the  loch,  is  a  modern 
mansion,  surrounded  with  plantations ;  and  Roekhill  is 
likewise  a  pleasant  residence,  on  Loch  Awe,  of  which 
it  commands  an  extensive  and  interesting  view.  There 
is  no  village  of  any  importance.  At  Dalmally  is  a  post- 
509 


ing  inn,  affording  every  accommodation;  and  facility 
of  communication  is  maintained  by  good  roads  which 
have  been  formed  in  various  parts  of  the  parish,  and 
are  kept  in  excellent  order.  Fairs  are  held  on  the  third 
Wednesday  in  March,  and  the  fourth  Tuesday  in  No- 
vember. The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Lorn  and  synod  of 
Argyll ;  patrons,  the  Duke  of  Argyll  and  the  Marquess 
of  Breadalbane.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £'206,  with  a 
manse,  a  glebe  valued  at  £22  per  annum,  and  the  privi- 
lege of  depasturing  eight  cows  on  four  farms  in  the 
neighbourhood,  which  is  equivalent  to  £10  more.  The 
church  of  Glenorchy,  erected  in  1S11,  is  a  handsome 
structure  in  the  later  English  style  of  architecture  ;  it 
is  beautifully  situated  on  an  islet  formed  by  the  wind- 
ings of  the  river  Orchy,  and  contains  500  sittings,  all 
of  which  are  free.  The  church  of  Inishail,  formerly  on 
an  island  of  that  name  in  Loch  Awe,  but  rebuilt  on  the 
shore  of  the  lake,  is  a  plain  structure  containing  250 
sittings.  The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place 
of  worship.  Two  parochial  schools  are  supported  in 
Inishail,  the  masters  of  which  have  each  a  salary  of 
£■25.  13.,  and  fees  averaging  £5  per  annum  :  there  is 
also  a  parochial  school  at  Glenorchy,  of  which  the  mas- 
ter has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  fees  amounting  to  £20, 
and  a  house  and  garden.  The  parochial  library  con- 
tains about  300  volumes. 

There  are  some  remains  of  ancient  castles,  among 
which  are  those  of  Fraocheilein,  situated  on  a  rock  in 
Loch  Awe,  and  erected  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  III. 
by  the  chief  of  the  elan  MacNaughton.  The  castle  of 
Caolchurn,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  lake,  was 
for  many  centuries  the  stronghold  of  the  Breadalbane 
family  ;  the  great  tower  or  keep  was  built  by  the  lady 
of  Sir  Colin  Campbell,  ancestor  of  the  family,  during 
his  absence  in  the  Holy  Land,  in  14-10.  This  castle, 
after  the  removal  of  the  owners  to  their  seat  at  Tay- 
mouth,  fell  into  decay,  which  was  greatly  accelerated 
by  the  appropriation  of  the  materials  to  the  building  of 
farm-houses  in  the  parish.  There  are  slight  remains, 
also,  of  the  castles  of  Acliallader,  Duchoille,  and  others. 
On  the  island  of  Inishail  are  the  ruins  of  a  convent  for 
nuns  of  the  Cistercian  order,  of  which  the  chapel  was,  after 
the  Reformation,  used  as  the  parish  church  of  Inishail, 
till  the  erection  of  the  present  structure  in  1/36.  Upon 
a  small  islet  in  the  lake,  called  the  Priest's  Isle,  are  the 
remains  of  the  house  of  the  priest  of  Inishail,  surrounded 
with  a  wall  of  dry  stones  ;  and  from  the  south  shore  of 
the  lake,  may  be  traced  some  huge  blocks  of  stone  in- 
tended for  the  foundation  of  a  bridge,  and  still  called 
the  Druid's  Bridge.  On  opening  a  cairn  on  the  farm 
of  Stronmilehan,  a.  few  years  since,  was  found  a  stone 
coffin  containing  an  urn.  The  Rev.  Dr.  John  Smith, 
the  translator  of  the  Bible  into  the  Gaelic  language,  and 
Duncan  Me  Intyre,  an  eminent  Highland  bard,  were 
natives  of  the  parish.  The  place  gives  the  title  of  Vis- 
count Glenorchy  to  the  Marquess  of  Breadalbane. 

GLENSHIEL,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Ross  and 
Cromarty,  16  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Balmacara,  in  Loch- 
alsh ;  containing  745  inhabitants.  The  derivation  of 
the  name  of  Glenshiel  is  involved  in  obscurity,  the  ori- 
ginal word  being  equally  applicable  to  a  "glen  of  cattle," 
"  of  hunting,"  or  "  of  rain."  The  history  of  the  parish, 
till  about  the  middle  of  the  thirteenth  century,  is  also 
uncertain.     At  this  time  the  Mc  Kenzies,  whose  founder 


GLEN 


G  O  G  A 


had  been  rewarded  by  Alexander  III.  for  his  bravery  at 
the  battle  of  Largs,  expelled  from  Glenshiel  several 
tribes  known  by  the  names  of  Macbheolan,  Macaulay, 
and  others,  and  made  themselves  possessors  of  the  land. 
In  the  beginning  of  the  next  century,  however,  the 
Mc  Raes,  a  clan  supposed  to  be  of  Irish  origin,  settled  in 
the  parish,  and  shortly  became  almost  the  sole  proprie- 
tors. The  descendants  of  this  ancient  tribe,  with  some 
adherents  of  the  Mackenzie  family,  and  400  Spaniards 
headed  by  William,  Earl  of  Seaforth,  engaged  the  royal 
troops  in  the  narrow  pass  of  Glenshiel,  in  the  cause  of 
the  dethroned  family  of  Stuart;  but,  after  several  severe 
engagements,  the  Highlanders  were  repulsed,  and  re- 
tired, carrying  with  them  the  earl,  who  had  been  dan- 
gerously wounded.  The  celebrated  Rob  Roy  was  con- 
cerned in  this  battle,  against  the  king's  troops.  The 
Mc  Raes  fought  on  the  same  side  also  at  Auldearn  and 
Sheriff muir,  but  did  not  interfere  in  the  rebellion  of 
1745. 

The  parish  is  about  twenty-six  miles  in  length,  vary- 
ing in  breadth  from  two  to  six  miles,  and  contains 
75,000  acres.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Loch 
Duich,  which  divides  it  from  the  parishes  of  Lochalsh 
and  Kintail ;  on  the  south  by  the  parish  of  Glenelg ;  on 
the  east  by  the  parishes  of  Kiltarlity,  Urquhart,  and 
Kilmonivaig ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  strait  of  Kylerea, 
which  separates  it  from  the  Isle  of  Skye.  The  surface 
is  formed  of  two  divisions,  the  Eastern  and  Western. 
The  eastern  consists  of  three  ranges  of  lofty  mountains, 
divided  by  narrow  valleys,  and  rising  in  a  bold  and  pre- 
cipitous manner  at  the  western  end,  to  an  elevation  of 
nearly  4000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  :  among  the 
many  peaks  by  which  they  are  distinguished,  Scur-uran 
is  the  most  conspicuous.  The  celebrated  valley  of  Glen- 
shiel lies  between  two  of  these  ridges  ;  it  is  about  fifteen 
miles  in  length,  of  various  breadth,  and  narrows  so 
much  at  the  middle,  b}'  the  approach  of  the  mountains, 
as  to  leave  only  sufficient  space  for  the  stream  of  Shiel 
to  pass  along.  In  a  more  expansive  portion,  it  forms  a 
bed  for  the  waters  of  the  lake  of  Cluonie.  The  scenery 
is  altogether  of  a  bold  and  romantic  cast.  The  western 
division  of  the  parish,  called  Letterfearn,  implying  "  the 
alder  side,"  is  of  a  different  character  from  the  other 
division,  consisting  of  a  verdant  tract  gradually  rising 
from  Loch  Duich,  and  marked  by  rocky  projections  and 
headlands,  diversified  with  well-cultivated  fields  and 
interesting  copses.  Good  springs  are  numerous  in  the 
parish  ;  and  in  the  eastern  division  are  two  considerable 
rivers,  of  very  clear  water,  stocked  with  salmon  and 
trout,  and  which  flow  for  about  twelve  miles,  and  then 
empty  themselves  into  Loch  Duich,  at  the  south  and 
east  extremities.  One  of  these  is  the  Shiel,  running 
through  the  valley  of  Glenshiel.  The  principal  inland 
lakes  are,  Loch  Cluonie,  Loch  Luin,  and  Loch  Shiel,  all 
of  which  abound  in  excellent  trout. 

The  soil,  near  the  shore  is  gravelly,  and,  if  well  ma- 
nured, produces  good  crops  of  potatoes  ;  in  several  of 
the  valleys  a  rich  vegetable  mould  is  found,  partially 
mixed  with  sand  or  gravel,  and  admitting  of  superior 
cultivation.  About  280  acres  are  employed  in  tillage, 
and  71,600  are  under  pasture  :  about  seventy  acres  are 
wood,  considerable  portions  of  which  consist  of  ash  and 
alder.  There  are  a  few  good  farms,  but  the  tillage  is 
principally  confined  to  yearly  tenants  who  hold  from 
one  to  two  acres  of  land,  which  is  turned  with  the  spade, 
510 


and  sown  with  barley  or  oats,  or  planted  with  potatoes  : 
the  manure  used  is  sea- weed.  The  houses  on  the  supe- 
rior farms  are  convenient  and  substantial  buildings  : 
those  inhabited  by  the  small  tenants,  however,  are  of 
a  mean  description,  built  of  common  stones,  without 
cement,  and  containing  only  one  apartment  with  par- 
titions. Black-cattle,  which  formerly  comprised  the 
whole  live  stock,  have  been  gradually  yielding,  since 
the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  to  sheep.  The 
breed  of  these,  which  has  been  much  promoted,  is  the 
black-faced,  or  the  Cheviot,  with  the  cross  of  the  two  : 
the  cattle  are  chiefly  the  native  Highland,  celebrated  for 
their  beauty  and  their  hardiness,  but  a  few  Ayrshire 
cows  are  kept  on  some  of  the  farms  for  their  milk.  The 
subsoil  is  a  stiff  and  tenacious  till,  rendering  draining 
difficult  and  expensive,  and  impeding  the  efforts  of  cul- 
tivation. The  prevailing  rock  is  gneiss,  sometimes  re- 
ceiving a  tinge  of  red  from  iron-ore  ;  limestone,  also,  is 
found  in  several  parts.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £3014. 

There  is  no  village  within  the  parish  :  fairs  are  held 
at  Shielhouse,  for  the  sale  of  black-cattle,  at  Whitsun- 
tide, in  July,  and  September.  Communication  between 
Glenshiel  and  Inverness  is  maintained  by  means  of  a 
parliamentary  road  running  for  eighteen  miles  through 
the  parish.  There  is  a  good  harbour,  named  Ob-inag, 
at  the  point  where  Loch  Duich  joins  Loch  Alsh ;  it  is 
capable  of  sheltering  the  largest  vessels.  The  bays, 
also,  of  Ardintoul  and  Craigan-roy,  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  Loch  Duich,  afford  secure  anchorage.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  presbytery  of 
Lochcarron  and  synod  of  Glenelg,  and  the  patronage  is 
in  the  Queen:  the  minister's  stipend  is  £158,  with  a 
manse,  built  in  1834,  and  a  glebe  of  about  twenty-four 
acres,  valued  at  £16  per  annum.  The  church,  which  is 
the  first  erected  in  the  parish,  was  built  in  175S,  and  is 
situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  Letterfearn  5  it  was  re- 
paired, enlarged,  and  new-roofed  in  1840,  and  accom- 
modates 300  persons  with  sittings.  There  is  a  parochial 
school,  in  which  Latin,  Gaelic,  and  English  are  taught; 
the  master  has  a  salary  of  £28,  and  about  £2  fees.  The 
only  relic  of  antiquity  is  a  strong  circular  fort  on  the 
estate  of  Letterfearn,  called  a  Picts'  house.  In  the  pa- 
rish are  some  chalybeate  springs ;  but  they  have  not 
been  used  for  medicinal  purposes. 

GLENTANNER,  county  of  Aberdeen.  —  See 
Aboyne. 

GOGAR,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Corstorphine, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  2  miles  (W.)  from  Corstorphine  ; 
containing  32  inhabitants.  The  lands  of  Gogar  anci- 
ently formed  a  parish,  which  merged,  after  the  Reforma- 
tion, into  the  adjoining  parishes  of  Corstorphine,  Kirk- 
liston, and  Ratho.  The  estate  was  given  by  King 
Robert  Bruce  to  Alexander  Seton,  one  of  his  companions 
in  arms ;  and  for  a  long  series  of  years  subsequently, 
it  was  a  possession  of  successive  influential  families. 
The  hamlet  is  in  that  division  of  the  ancient  parish  in- 
corporated with  Corstorphine,  and,  though  now  very 
small  and  unimportant,  is  said  to  have  been  a  consider- 
able village,  which,  at  one  time  numbered  300  inha- 
bitants :  the  road  from  Corstorphine  to  Brocksburn 
passes  through  it,  and  the  Gogar  burn  flows  in  its  vici- 
nity, on  the  south  and  west.  A  small  portion  of  the 
church  still  exists  ;  and  there  is  a  school,  supported  by 
subscription. 


GO  L  S 


GOL  S 


GOLSPIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Sutherland, 
S  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Dornoch ;  containing,  with  the 
village  of  Bachies,  1214  inhabitants,  of  whom  491  are  in 
the  village  of  Golspie.  This  place,  anciently  called  Cul- 
mallie,  and  of  which  the  present  name  is  of  doubtful 
etymology,  formed  part  of  the  ample  territories  of  the 
thanes  of  Sutherland,  of  whom  William  was  created 
Earl  of  Sutherland  by  Malcolm  Canmore,  in  1067. 
Robert,  or  Robin,  the  second  earl,  in  1100,  erected  here 
the  castle  of  Dunrobin,  which  has  since  that  time  been 
the  residence  of  many  of  his  successors,  and  is  now  a 
seat  of  his  descendant,  the  Duke  of  Sutherland,  who  is 
proprietor  of  nearly  the  whole  county.  In  1746,  a 
battle  took  place  on  the  north  side  of  the  Little  Ferry, 
between  the  militia  of  the  county  and  a  party  of  the 
adherents  of  the  Pretender,  in  which  the  latter  were  de- 
feated with  great  slaughter,  and  the  Earl  of  Cromarty 
and  several  other  men  of  rank  were  made  prisoners. 
The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  Moray 
Frith,  and  on  the  south-west  by  Loch  Fleet,  which 
separates  it  from  the  parish  of  Dornoch,  is  about  eight 
miles  in  length,  and  six  miles  in  extreme  breadth.  The 
surface,  though  generally  level,  is  diversified  with  hills, 
of  which  those  in  the  direction  of  the  coast  are,  Bein-a- 
Bhragidh,  having  an  elevation  of  1300  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  Silver  Rock  and  Morvich,  which 
are  of  inferior  height;  in  the  interior  are,  Bein-Horn, 
1712,  and  Bein-Lundie,  1464  feet  high.  In  the  centre 
of  the  parish  is  the  valley  of  Dunrobin,  which  is  richly 
wooded,  and  abounds  in  picturesque  scenery;  and 
towards  the  coast,  and  between  the  bases  of  the  hills, 
are  some  level  tracts  of  fertile  land.  On  the  summit  of 
Bein-a-Bhragidh,  a  monument  was  erected  by  his  tenantry 
in  1836,  to  the  memory  of  the  late  Duke  of  Sutherland, 
who  died  in  1S33.  The  rivers  in  the  parish  are,  the 
Fleet,  forming  part  of  its  western  boundary  ;  and  the 
Golspie  burn,  which  intersects  the  eastern  portion  of  it, 
flowing  through  the  picturesque  glen  to  which  it  gives 
name,  into  the  frith,  at  the  village.  There  are  several 
small  inland  lakes,  of  which  the  principal  are,  Horn, 
Lundie,  Farralarie,  and  Salachie ;  but  none  are  more 
than  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  about  one-third  of  a 
mile  in  breadth.  The  coast  is  indented  by  some  small 
bays,  and  by  Loch  Fleet,  an  inlet  from  the  Frith,  across 
which  was  erected,  in  1815,  a  strong  mound  of  earth, 
connecting  this  parish  with  that  of  Dornoch,  on  the 
opposite  shore.  This  mound,  which  was  completed  at 
an  expense  of  £9600,  towards  which  the  duke  contri- 
buted £1600,  is  nearly  1000  yards  in  length,  sixty  yards 
broad  at  the  base,  and  twenty  on  the  summit ;  and  ter- 
minates in  a  bridge  of  four  arches,  forming  an  excellent 
road,  over  which  the  mail  passes. 

Of  the  lands  in  the  parish  about  2040  are  arable,  S00 
in  W'oodland  and  plantations,  and  the  remainder  hill 
moorland  and  waste ;  the  soil  is  in  general  light,  but  of 
good  quality  and  fertile,  and  in  some  parts  a  deep  loam 
mixed  with  clay.  The  crops  are,  grain  of  all  kinds,  with 
potatoes,  turnips,  and  vegetables.  The  system  of  hus- 
bandry has  been  brought  to  great  perfection  ;  the  lands 
have  been  drained,  and  inclosed  chiefly  with  stone 
dykes  ;  and  the  farm-houses  and  offices  are  substantial 
and  commodious.  The  cattle  principally  reared  are  of 
the  Dunrobin  breed,  originally  introduced  from  Argyll- 
shire. On  some  farms,  however,  the  Highland  black 
breed  is  preferred  ;  upon  one  farm  is  a  stock  of  the 
511 


black-polled  Galloway,  and  on  the  dairy-farms  the  cows 
are  chiefly  the  Ayrshire.  The  sheep,  to  the  improve- 
ment of  which  great  attention  is  paid,  are  of  the  Che- 
viot breed,  and  obtain  a  decided  preference  in  the  mar- 
kets :  a  few  horses,  chiefly  for  agriculture,  are  also 
reared.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£S959.  The  plantations  have  been  greatly  extended  ; 
and  among  the  trees  most  prevalent  in  the  Highlands, 
large  numbers  of  forest  trees  of  every  kind  have  been 
recently  introduced  with  success.  The  principal  rocks 
are  porphyritic  granite  and  mica-slate  ;  and  the  sub- 
strata, red  and  white  sandstone,  and  limestone.  The 
sandstone  varies  much  in  texture,  some  veins  being 
much  more  durable  than  others,  and  better  adapted  for 
building,  for  which  the  stone  is  extensively  quarried. 
There  are  also  indications  of  coal  within  the  limits  of 
the  parish. 

Dunrobin  Castle,  occasionally  the  residence  of  the 
duke,  is  a  spacious  massive  structure,  situated  on  the 
summit  of  a  rock  rising  from  the  sea  :  it  occupies  a 
quadrangular  area,  inclosed  by  walls  of  great  thickness, 
and  flanked  at  the  angles  by  circular  towers  with  conical 
roofs  3  and  is  surrounded  with  strikingly  romantic  sce- 
nery. The  village  of  Golspie,  which  is  pleasantly  seated 
on  the  coast,  is  neatly  built,  and  contains  an  excellent 
inn,  a  post-office  which  has  a  daily  delivery,  a  branch 
bank,  and  numerous  shops  well  stocked  with  various 
kinds  of  merchandise.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  are 
employed  in  the  usual  handicraft  trades  ;  a  fair  for  cattle 
and  pedlery  is  annually  held  here,  in  October ;  and 
during  the  fishing  season  the  village  is  much  frequented, 
the  small  harbour  affording  good  shelter  for  the  boats 
engaged  off  the  coast.  There  is  also  a  pier  in  the  bay  of 
Dunrobin.  Great  facilities  are  likewise  afforded  by  the 
Fleet  loch,  in  which  is  a  secure  harbour  of  considerable 
extent,  having  eighteen  feet  depth  of  water  at  ebb  tides, 
about  a  mile  to  the  south  of  the  Little  Ferry;  it  is  fre- 
quented by  vessels  importing  coal,  lime,  bone-dust,  and 
various  kinds  of  merchandise  for  the  supply  of  the  dis- 
trict, and  which  return  with  cargoes  of  grain,  wool,  and 
whisky.  A  smack  plies  regularly  once  a  month  between 
the  Little  Ferry  and  Leith,  touching  at  Helmsdale  aud 
Aberdeen  ;  and  there  is  also  a  steamer  from  the  Moray 
Frith  to  London,  which  calls  at  this  place.  The  eccle- 
siastical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
presbytery  of  Dornoch  and  synod  of  Sutherland  and 
Caithness.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £204,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £6  per  annum  ;  patron, 
the  Duke  of  Sutherland.  The  church,  erected  in  1738, 
and  enlarged  in  1751,  is  a  neat  structure,  situated  in  the 
village,  close  to  the  sea-shore,  and  containing  565  sit- 
tings. The  parochial  school  is  well  attended  ;  the  mas- 
ter has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and 
the  fees  average  about  £26  per  annum.  There  are 
some  remains  of  two  Pictish  castles,  one  at  a  short  dis- 
tance to  the  east,  and  the  other  to  the  west,  of  Dun- 
robin Castle  :  in  the  western  ruin,  the  central  circle  and 
the  gallery  between  it  and  the  outer  walls  are  still  dis- 
tinctly apparent.  Near  Morvich  are  some  Druidical 
remains.  A  portion  of  the  ancient  church  is  yet  stand- 
ing, as  well  as  part  of  the  wall  that  inclosed  the 
cemetery  in  which  were  interred  many  of  the  earls  of 
Sutherland  :  near  these  ruins  have  been  found  several 
brass  rings  and  other  relics,  which  are  preserved  in 
Dunrobin  Castle. 


GORB 


GORD 


GOMETRAY  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Kilninian, 
county  of  Argyll.  It  is  a  small  basaltic  island  of  the 
Hebrides,  lying"  between  the  isles  of  Mull  and  StafTa, 
and  separated  from  Ulva  by  such  a  narrow  sound  that, 
from  most  points  of  view,  they  appear  as  if  one  island. 
There  is  a  harbour  on  the  north,  and  another  on  the 
south  side,  both  of  which  are  safe  and  tolerably  commo- 
dious. The  inhabitants  rear  cattle  and  horses,  and 
manufacture  kelp. 

GONOCHAN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Fintry, 
county  of  Stirling,  §  a  mile  (E.  by  S.)  from  Fintry  ; 
containing  44  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  a  burn  of 
the  same  name,  and  on  the  high  road  from  Fintry  to 
Campsie  :  the  burn  is  a  tributary  to  the  river  Endrick, 
and  both  have  their  source  in  the  parish.  In  the  ham- 
let is  the  parochial  school,  with  the  dwelling  of  the 
master,  the  latter  a  neat  building,  erected  by  himself. 

GORBALS,  a  parish,  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city  of 
Glasgow,  chiefly  in  the  county  of  Lanark,  but  partly  in 
the  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew;  containing 
39,263  inhabitants.  This  place,  originally  called  Bridg- 
end, from  its  situation  at  the  extremity  of  a  bridge  over 
the  Clyde,  connecting  it  with  Glasgow,  was  anciently 
part  of  the  parish  of  Govan,  from  which  it  was  separated 
in  1771.  At  that  time  it  comprised  only  about  fourteen 
acres,  to  which  were  subsequently  added  the  lands  of 
Rea,  Little  Govan,  and  the  prebend  of  Polmadie,  con- 
taining about  600  acres,  and  also  that  part  of  Govan 
called  the  Barony,  a  tract  of  400  acres,  belonging  to  the 
corporation  of  Glasgow,  the  patrons  of  Hutcheson's  hos- 
pital, and  the  Trades'  house.  The  whole  of  the  rural 
district  is  arable  land,  with  a  small  proportion  of  mea- 
dow and  pasture  ;  the  soil  is  rich,  and  the  moors  have 
been  brought  into  profitable  cultivation.  The  crops  are, 
wheat,  oats,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  abundance  of  ma- 
nure is  obtained  from  the  city  and  suburbs,  and  every 
recent  improvement  in  agriculture  has  been  adopted. 
The  population  is  partly  agricultural,  but  chiefly  em- 
ployed in  the  various  manufactures  of  Glasgow.  The 
parish,  with  the  adjacent  lands,  was  formed  into  a  burgh 
of  barony  and  regality  at  a  very  early  period,  and  in 
1607  was  bestowed  by  the  Archbishop  of  Glasgow  upon 
Sir  George  Elplnnstone,  who,  in  1611,  obtained  from 
James  VI.  a  charter  confirming  the  grant.  In  1647, 
his  successor  conveyed  it  to  the  magistrates  and  town 
council  of  Glasgow,  who  are  still  superiors  of  the  burgh 
and  barony,  of  which  the  former  includes  the  old  parish 
of  Gorbals  and  part  of  the  parish  of  Govan,  and  the  lat- 
ter has  been  divided  into  the  districts  of  Hutchesonton, 
Laurieston,  Tradeston,  and  Kingston,  which  are  described 
under  their  respective  heads. 

The  burgh  is  governed  by  four  bailies,  who  are  an- 
nually appointed  by  the  inhabitants,  and  of  whom  two 
may  be  continued  in  office  for  a  second  year.  Their 
jurisdiction  is  exercised  chiefly  in  matters  of  police,  in 
which  they  are  assisted  by  commissioners  under  the 
police  statute ;  they  have  no  corporate  rights  or  exclu- 
sive privileges.  The  police  buildings  comprise  a  spa- 
cious hall  and  court-house.  A  court  for  the  trial  of 
civil  causes  not  exceeding  thirty  shillings,  in  which  the 
process  is  either  ordinary  or  summary,  and  a  court  for 
the  recovery  of  debts  not  above  forty  shillings,  are  held 
before  the  bailies  occasionally,  the  town-clerks  of  Glas- 
gow acting  as  assessors.  The  burgh  and  barony  are 
wholly  within  the  parliamentary  boundary  of  the  city  5 
512 


the  number  of  £10  householders  is  1635.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £150,202.  Gorbals  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Glasgow  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and 
Ayr,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the  heritors  and  the  Kirk 
Session  :  the  stipend  is  £250  ;  there  is  neither  manse 
nor  glebe,  in  lieu  of  which  the  minister  has  an  allowance 
of  £25  per  annum.  The  church  erected  in  1771  was 
subsequently  purchased  for  the  district  of  Kirkfield,  and 
a  larger  and  more  commodious  edifice  built  for  this 
parish  in  1813,  at  an  expense  of  £7350 ;  it  is  a  hand- 
some structure,  and  contains  1460  sittings.  There  are 
also  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church, 
United  Secession,  Relief  Church,  and  Wesleyans.  A 
school,  in  which  are  about  140  children,  is  supported  by 
the  Kirk  Session,  who  pay  the  master  a  salary  of  £50, 
for  the  gratuitous  instruction  of  the  children  of  the 
parish  ;  and  there  is  a  school  for  girls,  established  in 
1 833,  under  a  bequest  of  £2000  by  Mrs.  Waddell,  of 
Stonefield.  The  patronage  of  the  girls'  school  is  vested 
in  the  magistrates,  and  the  minister  and  elders  of  the 
Kirk  Session  of  Gorbals,  with  preference  to  children  of 
the  name  of  Macfarlane ;  the  mistress  has  a  salary  of 
£20,  with  a  house,  coal,  and  candles. 

GORDON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Berwick, 
8|  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Kelso ;  containing  903  inhabit- 
ants. The  name  of  this  place  is  derived  from  the  Gaelic 
word  Goirtean,  signifying  "  a  little  farm  or  field,"  pro- 
bably in  reference  to  a  particular  tract  appropriated  to 
the  growth  of  corn,  or  under  some  kind  of  superior  cul- 
tivation. The  territory  of  Gordon,  which  was  formerly 
of  great  extent,  is  said  to  have  been  granted,  in  the 
reign  of  Malcolm  Canmore,  or  of  David  I.,  to  an  Anglo- 
Norman  settler  who  assumed  from  it  the  surname  of 
Gordon.  One  of  his  descendants,  Sir  Adam  Gordon, 
who  was  killed  at  the  battle  of  Halidon-hill  in  1333, 
changed  his  residence  to  the  shire  of  Aberdeen,  in  con- 
sequence of  obtaining  considerable  possessions  in  the 
north  :  but  the  family  derived  the  title  of  duke  from 
this  district  until  the  year  1836,  when  the  dignity  be- 
came extinct.  A  small  distance  to  the  north  of  the 
village  of  West  Gordon,  an  eminence  still  called  the 
Castle  is  pointed  out,  as  the  spot  on  which  the  ancestors 
of  the  dukes  had  their  seat ;  it  is  now  entirely  covered 
with  plantations,  and  nothing  remains  but  the  vestiges 
of  a  moat  or  ditch.  The  parish  was  in  remote  times 
of  much  greater  extent  than  at  present.  Part  of  it, 
called  Durrington-Laws,  has  been  annexed  to  Longfor- 
macus,  twelve  miles  distant ;  and  another  portion,  called 
Spottiswoode,  was  united,  with  the  parish  of  Bassen- 
dean,  to  the  lands  of  Westruther,  about  1647,  in  order 
to  form  the  modern  parish  of  the  latter  name.  Reli- 
gious foundations  were  established  here  at  a  very  early 
period  :  at  Huntly-wood,  in  the  parish,  was  a  chapel  de- 
dicated to  the  Virgin  Mary,  the  advowson  of  which  came 
into  the  family  of  Home  in  the  reign  of  James  IV.  There 
was  also  a  chapel,  called  White-Chapel,  at  the  hamlet 
of  Spottiswoode,  the  ruins  of  which  but  recently  disap- 
peared ;  it  was  built  by  John  de  Spottiswoode,  during 
the  reign  of  David  II.  The  parish  church  was  formerly 
an  appendage  to  that  of  Home ;  the  monks  of  Kelso 
obtained  the  patronage  about  the  year  1171,  and  held 
it  in  their  possession  till  the  time  of  the  Reformation. 

The  parish,  which  lies  in  the  western  portion  of  the 
Merse,  and  is  of  oval  figure,  is  about  seven  miles  long, 
varying  in  breadth  from  two  to  four  miles,  and  contains 


GORD 


G  O  U  R 


S900  acres.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  part  of 
Legerwood,  by  Westruther,  and  part  of  Greenlaw ;  on 
the  south  by  Hume,  now  joined  to  the  parish  of  Stit- 
chell,  and  by  Earlstoun  ;  on  the  east  by  Greenlaw  ;  and 
on  the  west  by  the  parish  of  Legerwood.  The  site  of 
the  parish  is  elevated,  and  the  surface  uneven  and  hilly, 
though  there  are  no  mountains.  The  small  river  Eden 
runs  through  the  whole  extent,  from  north  to  south, 
dividing  it  into  two  nearly  equal  parts  ;  and  the  north- 
eastern boundary  is  washed,  for  about  two  and  a  half 
miles,  by  the  Blackadder,  which  separates  it  from  Green- 
law. The  soil  in  general  is  light  and  sandy,  but  in 
some  places  it  approximates  to  clay  :  there  are  several 
extensive  tracts  of  moor  and  moss.  About  500  acres 
are  planted  with  fir,  beech,  oak,  and  elm,  the  first  of 
which  greatly  predominates  ;  4296  acres  are  cultivated, 
or  occasionally  in  tillage,  and  4100  are  constantly  waste, 
or  in  pasture.  Grain  of  all  kinds  is  raised  ;  good  crops 
of  turnips  and  potatoes  are  also  produced,  as  well  as  of 
hay.  The  best  system  of  husbandry  is  followed,  and 
the  rotation  is  the  five  years'  change ;  the  farm-build- 
ings are  usually  substantial  and  convenient,  and  all 
the  arable  land  is  inclosed  with  stone  dykes  or  thorn 
hedges.  Much  waste  has  been  reclaimed  and  culti- 
vated ;  and  draining  has  been  carried  on  to  a  consider- 
able extent.  The  prevailing  rock  is  whinstone,  which 
lies  scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  uncultivated  moors 
in  blocks  of  from  a  few  pounds  to  two  tons  in  weight : 
in  some  parts,  small  beds  of  red  sandstone  are  seen,  but 
it  is  so  friable  as  to  be  almost  useless.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5495. 

The  only  village  is  West  Gordon ;  containing  about 
300  inhabitants.  The  road  from  Kelso  to  Edinburgh 
crosses  the  parish  at  the  widest  part,  and  another  road, 
from  Earlstoun  to  Greenlaw,  runs  through  its  whole 
length ;  these,  together  with  the  numerous  parish  roads, 
are  kept  in  good  order.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Lauder  and  synod  of  Merse 
and  Teviotdale,  and  the  patronage  is  in  the  Crown  :  the 
stipend  of  the  minister  is  £164,  with  a  manse,  built  in 
1S03,  and  a  glebe  of  twelve  acres  of  arable  land,  valued 
at  £30  per  annum.  The  church,  built  in  17i>6,  and 
repaired  in  1834,  is  conveniently  placed  in  the  centre  of 
the  parish;  it  contains  400  sittings.  There  is  a  paro- 
chial school,  in  which  Latin,  mathematics,  and  all  the 
usual  branches  of  education  are  taught  ;  the  master  has 
the  maximum  salary,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and 
about  £21  fees.  A  parochial  library  was  established 
about  the  year  1S23,  and  has  been  of  great  service.  No 
important  relics  of  antiquity  remain  in  the  parish  ;  but 
there  are  two  farms  called  Rumbleton  and  Rumbleton- 
Law,  which  names  are  said  to  be  corruptions  of  the 
terms  Roman-Town  and  Roman-Town-Law.  At  the 
latter  of  these  places  were  recently  appearances  of  ex- 
tensive fortifications  on  a  law  or  hill,  which  have  been 
ploughed  up,  and  inclosed  ;  they  are  supposed  to  have 
been  Roman  works.  At  Huntly,  also,  are  the  remains 
of  some  walls  that  appear  to  have  been  part  of  a 
fortified  place. 

GORDONSTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Auch- 
terless,  district  of  Turriff,  county  of  Aberdeen, 
7  miles  (S.)  from  Turriff;  containing  9S  inhabitants. 
It  lies  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  a  short  distance 
east  of  the  Ythan  river ;  and  is  a  small  straggling  vil- 
lage. 

Vol.  I.— 513 


GOREBRIDGE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Temple, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  3  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Temple; 
containing  240  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  a  detached 
portion  of  the  parish  between  the  parishes  of  Borthwick 
and  Newbattle,  and  derives  its  name  from  a  bridge 
over  the  Gore  burn,  a  tributary  to  the  South  Esk.  A 
considerable  increase  in  its  population  has  latterly  taken 
place,  caused  by  the  establishment  of  the  manufacture 
of  gunpowder,  mills  for  which  were  built  at  Stobhill, 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  village,  in  the  year  1794,  these 
being  the  first  mills  of  the  kind  erected  in  Scotland. 
The  inhabitants  generally  attend  the  church  at  Borth- 
wick, which  is  somewhat  nearer  than  that  of  Temple. 
Two  small  schools  are  supported  by  subscription. 

GOURDON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Bervie, 
county  of  Kincardine,  1^  mile  (S.  by  W.)  from  Ber- 
vie ;  containing  390  inhabitants.  This  is  a  fishing-vil- 
lage on  the  eastern  coast,  having  a  small  harbour,  which, 
however,  is  neither  convenient  nor  safe,  and  is  difficult 
of  entrance,  and  much  exposed  to  the  violence  of  the 
south  and  east  winds.  There  are  seven  boats  belonging 
to  the  place,  each  manned,  commonly,  by  six  or  seven 
men,  engaged  in  the  cod  and  haddock  fishery ;  and 
about  ten  larger  boats,  manned  each  by  five  men,  are 
employed  in  the  herring-fishery  for  two  months  in  the 
year.  Here  are  large  and  commodious  granaries,  from 
which  upwards  of  30,000  quarters  of  grain  are  annually 
shipped  at  the  port,  which  is  subsidiary  to  that  of  Mon- 
trose. There  are  also  convenient  sheds  for  coal,  lime, 
and  other  articles. 

GOUROCK,  lately  an  ecclesiastical  district  in  the 
parish  of  Innerkip,  Lower  ward  of  the  county  of  Ren- 
frew, 2  miles  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Greenock  ■  containing 
244S  inhabitants,  of  whom  2169  are  in  the  village. 
This  district,  which  was  formed  for  ecclesiastical  pur- 
poses, in  1S32,  by  act  of  the  General  Assembly,  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  by  which  it  is  bounded  on 
the  north  ;  and  is  about  three  ■  and  a  half  miles  in 
length,  and  three  miles  in  breadth.  The  surface  near 
the  shore  of  the  bay  of  Gourock  is  tolerably  level ;  but 
the  ground  rises  thence  gradually  towards  the  south 
and  east,  and  the  higher  parts  command  pleasing  views 
over  the  Frith,  and  of  the  adjacent  country,  in  some 
directions  richly  cultivated,  and  in  others  boldly  ro- 
mantic. The  soil  is  of  moderate  fertility ;  in  several 
places  light  and  sandy,  and  in  others  of  better  quality. 
The  total  number  of  acres  is  not  precisely  known ; 
about  2000  are  arable,  2500  uncultivated  moor,  of  which 
nearly  one-half  might  be  rendered  profitable,  200  un- 
divided common,  and  about  thirty  acres  woodland  and 
plantations.  Considerable  improvements  have  been 
made  in  the  system  of  husbandry,  furrow-draining  has 
been  extensively  practised,  and  the  crops  are  generally 
favourable  and  abundant.  The  scenery  is  enlivened 
with  some  agreeable  seats  and  villas.  Gourock  House 
is  a  handsome  mansion,  erected  on  the  site  of  an  ancient 
castle,  of  which  the  remains  were  taken  down  in  1747  ; 
it  is  beautifully  situated,  and  the  grounds  are  tastefully 
laid  out,  and  embellished  with  flourishing  plantations. 
Several  headlands  mark  this  part  of  the  coast,  of  which 
Ironotter  Point,  on  the  eastern,  and  Kempoch  Point, 
on  the  western  shore  of  the  bay,  are  the  principal ;  the 
bay  has  depth  of  water  sufficient  to  render  it  accessible 
to  vessels  of  the  largest  class,  and  a  small  pier  has  been 
constructed  for  the  landing  of  goods. 

3  U 


GO  V  A 


G  O  V  A 


The  village,  situated  on  the  bay,  is  said  to  have  been 
the  first  place  in  Scotland  where  the  curing  of  herrings 
was  practised,  and  which  was  introduced  in  1688,  by 
Walter  Gibson,  provost  of  Glasgow,  who  built  salt-pans 
for  the  purpose ;  but  that  trade  has  long  been  discon- 
tinued, and  the  inhabitants,  though  during  the  season 
employed  in  the  herring-fishery,  are  now  chiefly  engaged 
in  the  fishery  off  the  coast.  The  fish  taken  are,  cod, 
ling,  haddock,  and  whiting,  with  some  few  salmon  and 
trout,  the  proceeds  of  all  which  are  estimated  at  £300 
per  annum.  There  are  two  sloops,  and  several  smaller 
boats,  belonging  to  the  fishermen  of  the  place.  The 
beach  affords  great  facilities  for  bathing ;  and  numerous 
families  from  Glasgow  and  Paisley  consequently  frequent 
the  village  in  summer,  for  whose  accommodation  there 
are  several  handsome  houses.  The  manufacture  of 
ropes  is  carried  on  extensively  by  a  company,  who  em- 
ploy about  thirty-five  persons  ;  the  quantity  of  cordage 
averages  ISO  tons  annually,  and  the  proceeds  amount 
to  more  than  £7500.  The  church  was  built  in  1832,  at 
an  expense  of  £2286,  of  which  sum  £1731  were  raised 
by  subscription,  and  £535  given  by  General  Darroch, 
who  also  presented  the  site  ;  it  is  a  handsome  structure, 
containing  947  sittings.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £120, 
paid  from  the  seat-rents  and  by  General  Darroch.  The 
members  of  the  Free  Church  have  also  a  place  of  wor- 
ship. Connected  with  the  church  is  a  parochial  library 
of  nearly  600  volumes ;  but  it  appears  to  be  altogether 
in  disuse.  A  parochial  school  is  supported  by  the 
chief  landed  proprietors ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£20,  but  no  dwelling-house,  and  the  fees  average 
£30. 

GOV  AN,  a  parish,  chiefly  in  the  Lower  ward  of  the 
county  of  Lanark,  but  partly  in  the  Upper  ward  of  the 
county  of  Renfrew  ;  including  the  village  of  Strath- 
bungo,  and  the  late  quoad  sacra  district  of  Partick  ;  and 
containing  7810  inhabitants,  of  whom  2474  are  in  the 
village  of  Govan,  2  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Glasgow.  The 
name  of  this  parish  is  generally  supposed  to  have  been 
derived  from  the  two  Saxon  words  god  and  win,  "  good 
wine,"  applied  on  account  of  the  superior  ale  for  which 
the  place  was  celebrated,  and  which,  after  being  kept 
for  several  years,  approached  in  flavour  to  wine.  Some, 
however,  derive  it  from  the  Gaelic  word  gamham,  pro- 
nounced gamin,  and  signifying  "a  ditch,"  used  in  refer- 
ence to  the  river  Clyde,  which  runs  through  the  parish, 
and  which,  in  ancient  times,  was  a  very  narrow  stream. 
The  most  remote  historical  information  relating  to 
Govan  is  connected  with  the  removal  of  Constantine, 
King  of  Cornwall,  into  Scotland  :  that  prince  is  said  to 
have  come  from  Ireland,  after  resigning  his  crown, 
among  the  followers  of  St.  Columba,  in  the  year  565, 
and  to  have  founded  a  monastery  here,  of  which  he 
became  the  first  abbot.  He  is  supposed  to  have  been 
martyred  by  the  inhabitants  of  Cantyre,  who  thus  re- 
sisted his  attempts  to  convert  them  to  Christianity,  and 
afterwards  to  have  been  buried  in  his  own  monastery. 
Many  of  the  estates  of  the  parish  were,  in  early  times, 
successively  made  over  as  gifts  to  the  church.  David  I. 
gave  the  lands  of  Govan  to  the  church  of  St.  Kentigern, 
otherwise  called  St.  Mungo,  at  Glasgow ;  and  in  1136, 
■when  present  at  the  consecration  of  the  cathedral  of 
that  city,  he  bestowed  a  part  of  the  estate  of  Partick, 
and  subsequently  another  portion  of  the  same  lands,  on 
the  see. 

514 


These  grants,  with  many  others,  were  confirmed  by 
the  bulls  of  several  popes  ;  and  Bishop  John,  who  filled 
the  episcopal  chair  for  thirty-two  years,  made  Govan  a 
prebend  of  Glasgow,  the  emoluments  of  which  were 
increased  by  Herbert,  chancellor  of  Scotland,  who  pre- 
sided as  Bishop  of  Glasgow  till  1164.  The  lands  were 
consequently  long  held  by  tenants  under  the  bishops 
and  archbishops ;  but  at  the  Reformation,  Walter, 
commendator  of  Blantyre,  was  commissioned  to  feu 
the  estates,  that  the  tenants,  becoming  heritable  pos- 
sessors of  their  several  properties,  might  be  encouraged 
to  improve  them  to  the  utmost.  In  1595,  the  land- 
holders united  in  procuring  a  charter,  to  confirm  this 
privilege,  from  James  VI. ;  and  from  that  time  the 
crown  became  lessor.  Afterwards,  the  college  of  Glas- 
gow obtained  leases  of  the  lands  from  the  crown,  and 
continued  to  hold  them  for  upwards  of  a  century,  to 
the  year  1825,  when,  in  lieu  of  the  leases,  a  grant  was 
made  to  the  establishment  of  an  annuity  of  £800,  for 
fourteen  years,  by  George  IV.  The  heritors  still  pay 
feu  duties  to  the  crown,  as  coming  in  place  of  the  arch- 
bishops. But  the  parish  is  not  remarkable  solely  on 
account  of  its  ecclesiastical  history  :  as  containing  the 
Muir  of  Govan,  it  was  in  ancient  times  the  scene  of 
several  important  political  and  military  transactions. 
That  this  was  the  case,  is  evident  from  the  circumstance 
that  the  lords  who  had  confederated  together  in  defence 
of  the  Protestant  religion,  after  the  treaty  between  the 
queen  regent  and  the  Protestants,  at  Leith,  on  July 
24th,  1559,  suspecting  her  integrity,  resolved  to  have  a 
meeting  with  "  their  kin  and  friends,  upon  Govan  Muir, 
beside  Glasgow,"  for  the  purpose  of  providing  for  exi- 
gencies. This  meeting,  however,  the  queen  regent,  by  the 
exercise  of  no  common  address,  contrived  successfully 
to  prevent.  The  moor,  also,  is  famed  for  the  defeat  of 
Queen  Mary's  army  after  her  escape  from  the  castle  of 
Lochleven. 

The  parish  is  about  five  miles  long,  and  from  two  to 
three  miles  broad.  The  lands  of  Haggs,  Titwood,  and 
Shields  belong  to  the  county  of  Renfrew  :  the  remainder 
of  Govan  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parishes  of 
New  Kilpatrick,  Barony,  and  Glasgow ;  by  Cathcart, 
Eastwood,  and  the  Abbey  parish  of  Paisley,  in  Renfrew- 
shire, on  the  south  ;  on  the  east  by  Barony,  Gorbals, 
and  Rutherglen ;  and  on  the  west  by  Renfrew  parish. 
The  surface  is  diversified  by  gentle  undulations  and 
acclivities,  the  extensive  and  fertile  plain  in  the  centre 
of  the  parish  being  succeeded  on  each  side  by  gradually 
rising  grounds ;  and  the  fields  are  defined  by  well- 
grown  hedges,  which,  with  the  Clyde,  and  the  numerous 
and  beautiful  villas  in  different  directions,  constitute  an 
assemblage  of  very  agreeable  and  interesting  scenery. 
The  Clyde,  after  being  joined  by  the  Kelvin,  runs 
through  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and,  though  anciently 
rather  a  narrow  stream,  is  now  a  channel  for  ships  of 
600  tons'  burthen,  conveying  stores  from  every  part  of 
the  world  into  the  harbour  of  Glasgow.  The  soil  in 
general  is  of  good  quality,  and  produces  fine  crops  of 
grain,  as  well  as  of  the  best  potatoes  and  turnips.  The 
five  years'  rotation  is  followed;  and  the  ground  is 
largely  supplied  with  manure  from  Glasgow,  to  which 
it  is  chiefly  indebted  for  its  fertility :  wheat  and  oats 
are  the  chief  grain,  and  are  grown  in  considerable  quan- 
tities. Many  improvements  have  been  made,  in  remoter 
as  well  as  more  recent  times,  in  the  agricultural  cha- 


GO  V  A 


GOVA 


racter  of  the  district ;  and  the  celebrated  moor,  depicted 
in  song  as  "  the  carpet  of  purple  heath,''  now  consists 
of  a  number  of  well-inclosed  fields,  bearing,  year  after 
year,  as  luxuriant  crops  as  are  any  where  to  be  met 
with.  Similar  changes  have  been  effected  in  other 
parts,  especially  about  Moss  House  and  Heathery  Hall. 
At  White-Inch,  the  low  ground  along  the  north  side  of 
the  Clyde  has  been  recently  enriched,  and  elevated  to  a 
height  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet,  by  soil  obtained  from 
the  deepening  and  widening  of  the  river,  in  consequence 
of  which  the  worth  of  the  land  has  been  nearly  doubled. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  Govau  is  £30,0/0. 

The  subterraneous  contents  of  the  parish  are 
chiefly  coal,  with  the  strata  peculiar  to  that  formation. 
Several  pits  are  regularly  worked,  in  one  of  which,  at 
Bellahoustown,  on  the  south  of  the  river,  a  portion  of 
the  layers  consists  of  parrot  or  cannel  coal,  which  sells 
at  a  high  price  for  the  purpose  of  being  converted  into 
gas.  At  Jordanhill  and  Cartnavel,  about  fifty  fathoms 
beneath  the  surface,  are  sixteen  beds  of  coal,  some  of 
them  two  feet  thick,  and  part  being,  like  the  parrot 
coal,  of  the  finest  quality  for  making  gas.  Above  the 
gas-coal,  as  well  as  at  a  lower  depth,  are  numerous 
seams  of  ironstone,  which  vary  in  thickness  from  five  to 
twelve  inches,  and  are  of  excellent  quality.  The  col- 
lieries of  Govan,  forming  part  of  the  well-known  Glas- 
gow coal-fields,  have  been  long  wrought ;  and  it  is 
supposed  that,  beneath  the  seven  principal  seams  now 
open,  lie  others,  which  will  afford  a  plentiful  supply  if 
at  any  time  those  at  present  being  worked  should  be 
exhausted.  The  surface  just  above  the  coal  is  composed, 
in  general,  of  diluvial  matter,  containing  rolled  stones, 
over  which  are  deposits  of  sand,  fine  clay,  and  marine 
shells.  A  number  of  fossil  trees  were  discovered  a  few 
years  ago  at  Balgray,  standing  close  to  each  other  in 
their  natural  position,  though  two  feet  only  of  the 
trunks  were  found  attached  to  the  roots. 

The  population  of  the  parish,  which, has  very  consi- 
derably increased  of  late  years,  from  the  growing  pros- 
perity of  Glasgow,  is  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture 
and  manufactures,  and  a  large  number  in  coal-pits 
and  quarries.  In  the  village  of  Govan  are  340  hand- 
loom  weavers  ;  a  dye-work  employs  118  hands  ;  and  at 
a  small  distance  from  the.  village  is  a  factory  for  throw- 
ing silk,  erected  in  1S24,  and  which  affords  occupation 
to  about  250  persons.  Near  Port-Eglinton  is  a  carpet 
manufactory,  established  several  years  ago,  in  which 
554  persons  are  engaged ;  and  various  other  concerns 
are  carried  on  in  different  parts,  chiefly  connected,  with 
the  cotton  manufacture.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
collieries  are  iron-works,  containing  several  blast-fur- 
naces, which  produce  many  hundred  tons  of  pig-iron 
annually  ;  and  near  these,  a  bar-iron  manufactory,  be- 
longing to  the  same  proprietor,  has  been  constructed, 
producing  upwards  of  400  tons  weekly.  There  is  a 
fishery  for  salmon  on  the  Clyde,  the  rent  of  which  was 
formerly  £326 ;  but  it  has  fallen,  since  1812,  to  £60 
per  annum,  in  consequence  of  the  erection  of  the  nu- 
merous manufactories  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  In 
the  villages  of  Govan  and  Partick  are  penny-posts,  which 
communicate  with  Glasgow  twice  each  day.  Four  great 
roads  pass  through  the  parish,  one  of  which  runs  from 
Glasgow  to  Paisley  ;  another  leads  to  Kilmarnock  and 
Ayr  ;  the  third  to  Port-Glasgow  and  Greenock,  through 
Renfrew ;  and  the  fourth  to  the  West  Highlands  by  the 
515 


town  of  Dumbarton.  The  Glasgow  and  Johnstone  canal 
also  intersects  the  parish,  and  a  branch  of  the  Forth 
and  Clyde  canal  touches  its  northern  boundary.  A 
boat,  capable  of  conveying  horses  and  carriages,  plies 
upon  the  ferry  that  connects  the  two  parts  of  the  parish 
at  the  village  of  Govan  :  all  steam-boats,  also,  except 
those  of  the  largest  class,  land  and  take  in  passengers 
here.  The  Pollock  and  Govan  railway  joins  the  mineral 
fields  on  the  south-east  of  Glasgow,  with  that  city  and 
the  harbour  ;  and  the  Greenock  and  Ayr  railroad  runs 
for  about  three  miles  through  the  parish  of  Govan. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the  pres- 
bytery of  Glasgow  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr.  The 
temporal  immunities  of  the  church  came,  at  the  time  of 
the  Reformation,  into  the  possession  of  the  college  of 
Glasgow.  The  Regent  Morton  had  offered  the  benefice 
to  his  uncle,  Andrew  Melville,  principal  of  the  college, 
on  condition  that  he  would  not  press  his  views  of  eccle- 
siastical polity ;  but  this  compromise  being  refused  by 
Melville,  the  regent  conveyed  the  temporalities  to  the 
college,  devolving  upon  the  principal  the  obligation  of 
serving  the  cure ;  and  since  that  time  the  university 
has  held  the  patronage.  The'  stipend  of  the  minister 
is  £315,  with  a  good  manse,  standing  near  the  church, 
and  a  glebe  of  seven  acres,  valued  at  £25  per  annum. 
The  church,  situated  at  the  west  end  of  the  village  of 
Govan,  and  about  100  yards  from  the  Clyde,  was  built  in 
1826,  and  is  a  plain  structure  containing  1096  sittings  : 
the  design  of  the  tower  and  spire  was  taken  from  the 
church  of  Stratford-upon-Avon, in  England.  The  church- 
yard is  raised  several  feet  above  the  level  of  the  adjacent 
ground,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  double  row  of  venerable 
elms.  There  are  places  of  worship  belonging  to  the  Free 
Church,  United  Secession,  Relief  Church,  and  Roman 
Catholics.  The  parochial  school  is  situated  in  the  vil- 
lage of  Govan;  the  master  has  the  maximum  salary, 
with  £1.  13.  4.  from  Glasgow  college,  £1.  19.  accruing 
from  an  ancient  bequest  of  Lamb  Hill,  and  £36  arising 
from  a  sum  of  £200,  left  by  Mr.  Abram  Hill,  in  1757. 
Mr.  Hill  was  educated  in  the  school  as  a  poor  orphan, 
and  his  gift  was  invested  in  ten  acres  of  land,  now  pro- 
ducing the  above  sum,  for  which  ten  children  are  taught 
gratuitously:  the  master  has  also  £1S  fees,  a  good 
house,  and  an  allowance  in  lieu  of  a  garden.  An  infant 
school  was  instituted  at  Partick,  in  1S37,  on  a  very 
extensive  scale  ;  and  other  schools  are  supported  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  parish.  There  is  a  good  parochial 
library,  under  the  management  of  the  trustees  of  Mrs. 
Thorn,  its  founder,  and  containing  above  600  volumes ; 
also  a  savings'  bank,  and  several  friendly  societies. 

The  ruins  of  the  once  celebrated  Hospital  of  Polmadie 
were,  at  the  close  of  the  last  century,  among  the  most 
interesting  antiquities  of  the  parish.  This  hospital 
was  built  at  a  very  remote  period,  for  the  reception  of 
persons  of  both  sexes  to  be  maintained  for  life ;  and 
was  dedicated  to  St.  John.  The  church  and  tempo- 
ralities of  Strathblane  were  early  annexed  to  it,  with 
part  of  the  lands  of  Little  Govan ;  and  these  posses- 
sions, with  many  important  privileges,  were  confirmed 
to  the  establishment  by  Alexander  III.,  Robert  Bruce, 
and  several  others.  In  the  year  1427,  Bishop  Cameron, 
with  the  consent  of  the  chapter,  erected  the  hospital, 
and  the  church  of  Strathblane,  into  a  prebend,  with  a 
provision  that  the  person  collated  to  the  office  should 
support  a  vicar  in  the  parish  of  Strathblane,  and  pay 

3  U2 


G  R  A  H 


GRAI 


four  choristers  to  sing  in  the  cathedral.  St.  Ninian's 
Hospital,  founded  by  Lady  Lochow,  in  the  fourteenth 
century,  for  the  reception  of  persons  afflicted  with 
leprosy,  partly  occupied  a  piece  of  ground  called  St. 
Ninian's  croft,  where  Hutchesonton,  formerly  within  this 
parish,  but  now  in  Gorbals,  at  present  stands  ;  and  close 
to  its  site,  a  number  of  human  bones  were  not  long 
since  found,  pointing  out  the  locality,  as  is  supposed,  of 
the  lepers'  churchyard.  On  the  south  of  the  Clyde, 
opposite  the  ferry-house,  is  an  ancient  circular  hill, 
thought  to  have  been  the  sepulchre  of  some  celebrated 
hero  ;  and  in  another  part  of  the  parish  is  the  picturesque 
ruin  of  Hagg's  Castle,  built  in  1585,  by  an  ancestor  of 
Sir  John  Maxwell,  of  Pollock. — See  Gorbals. 

GOWAN-BANK,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  St. 
"Vigean's,  county  of  Forfar  j  containing  72  inhabit- 
ants. 

GOWKHALL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Carnock, 
district  of  Dunfermline,  county  of  Fife,  1  mile  (E.) 
from  Carnock  ;  containing  196  inhabitants.  It  is  situ- 
ated in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  a  short  distance 
north  of  the  high  road  from  Dunfermline  to  Carnock  ; 
and  is  one  of  three  villages  of  which  the  population  is 
chiefly  engaged  in  manufactures. 

GOWKSHILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cock- 
pen,  county  of  Edinburgh  ;  containing  219  inhabit- 
ants. 

GPwEMSAY  ISLE,  in  the  parish  of  Hoy,  county  of 
Orkney  ;  containing  214  inhabitants.  It  is  one  of  the 
Orkney  group,  and  lies  about  a  mile  and  a  half  south 
from  Stromness  ;  in  length  it  is  nearly  two  miles,  and  in 
breadth  one.  The  whole  of  the  island  is  level,  and  is 
either  cultivated  for  the  production  of  grain,  or  suffered 
to  remain  in  old  grass  for  the  pasturage  of  sheep  and 
cattle.  Through  almost  its  whole  extent  runs  a  bed  of 
schistus,  or  slate,  used  for  the  covering  of  houses.  The 
inhabitants  excel  in  fishing.  The  principal  disadvantage 
under  which  they  labour,  is  the  scarcity  of  fuel.  Grasm- 
say  was  formerly  a  vicarage,  but  is  now  united  to  Hoy, 
which  see. 

GRAHAMSTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Fal- 
kirk, county  of  Stirling,  1  mile  (N.)  from  Falkirk. 
This  village  derives  its  name  from  Sir  John  the  Graham, 
who  was  killed  here  in  the  battle  which  Wallace  fought 
with  Edward  I.  in  1298.  It  forms  part  of  the  suburbs 
of  Falkirk,  and  is  included  within  the  burgh,  and  situ- 
ated on  the  south  bank  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde  canal, 
over  which  is  a  drawbridge,  connecting  it  with  Bains- 
ford.  The  houses  are  handsomely  built,  chiefly  of 
stone,  and  of  modern  appearance  ;  and  there  are  nume- 
rous shops,  stored  with  various  kinds  of  merchandise. 
The  labouring  portion  of  the  inhabitants  are  chiefly 
employed  in  the  Falkirk  iron-works,  and  in  those  of  the 
Carron  Company.  From  its  situation  on  the  canal,  the 
place  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  in  timber  and  in 
grain  ;  and  numerous  vessels  arrive  here  with  dried  fish 
for  the  market  of  Falkirk,  where  it  finds  a  ready  sale. 
A  post-office,  subordinate  to  that  of  Falkirk,  has  been 
established  ;  and  there  are  several  schools  in  the  vil- 
lage. 

GRAHAMSTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Neil- 
ston,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  3  miles 
(S.  S.  E.)  from  Paisley  ;  containing  706  inhabitants. 
This  village,  like  many  others  in  the  parish,  is  indebted 
for  its  origin  to  the  introduction  of  the  cotton  manufac- 
516 


ture  into  this  district  about  the  year  1790,  and  to  the 
erection  of  an  extensive  spinning-mill  in  1S01,  by  Mr. 
Graham,  from  whom  it  takes  its  name ;  it  is  neatly 
built,  and  principally  inhabited  by  persons  employed  in 
the  cotton-works. 

GRAITNEY,  vulgarly  called  Gretna,  a  parish,  in 
the  county  of  Dumfries,  9§  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Car- 
lisle, and  309  (N.  W.  by  N.)  from  London  ;  containing, 
with  the  village  of  Springfield,  1761  inhabitants.  The 
derivation  of  the  name  of  this  place  is  doubtful ;  but  it 
is  usually  traced  to  the  words  Great  knowe,  descriptive 
of  a  hill  standing  at  the  distance  of  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  church.  The  district  is  chiefly  memo- 
rable for  the  many  bloody  feuds  of  which  it  was  for- 
merly the  scene,  as  the  frontier  land  of  Scotland,  and 
the  celebration  of  which  in  tales  and  songs  has  scarcely 
at  this  time  altogether  passed  away.  The  parish  is 
skirted  on  the  east  by  the  river  Sark ;  and  the  lands 
lying  between  that  river  and  the  Esk,  now  forming  the 
English  parish  of  Kirkandrews,  were  for  many  ages 
debateable  ground,  being  common  to  both  England  and 
Scotland.  These  lands  extended  eight  miles  in  length 
and  four  in  breadth,  and  were  long  held  by  a  kind  of 
lawless  banditti,  whose  chief  employment  was  rapine 
and  smuggling.  In  the  year  1552,  however,  a  line  of 
demarkation  was  agreed  upon  by  the  sovereigns  of  the 
respective  kingdoms ;  but  notwithstanding  this,  the 
habits  of  the  people  continued  nearly  the  same  until 
the  union  of  the  crowns  under  James  VI.,  from  which 
time  the  state  of  the  population  gradually  improved. 

The  parish  is  six  miles  in  length  and  three  in 
breadth,  and  contains  about  11,000  acres.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  the  parishes  of  Kirkpatrick-Fleming 
and  Halfmorton ;  on  the  south  by  the  Solway  Frith ; 
on  the  east  by  the  county  of  Cumberland ;  and  on  the 
west  by  the  parish  of  Dornock.  The  surface  is  generally 
level  towards  the  south  and  west;  but  towards  the 
east  and  north  it  is  diversified  by  many  gentle  accli- 
vities, of  which  Graitney,  the  highest,  rises  about  250 
feet  above  the  sea.  This  eminence  commands  a  beau- 
tiful and  extensive  view  of  the  valleys  of  Esk  and  Eden, 
the  Solway  Frith,  the  coast  of  Cumberland,  and  St. 
Bees  in  a  southern  direction,  and  the  mountains  of 
Dumfriesshire  and  Northumberland.  The  eastern  por- 
tion of  the  parish,  from  the  number  of  its  hedge  rows, 
has  the  appearance  of  being  well  wooded  ;  and  the  lands 
in  this  quarter  are  thickly  interspersed  with  ash,  oak, 
and  plane  trees,  among  which  the  first  predominates. 
These,  with  the  laburnum,  give  a  pleasing  variety  to 
the  scenery,  and  indicate,  by  their  fine  and  expansive 
growth,  the  fostering  power  of  a  congenial  soil.  The 
whole  southern  boundary  of  the  parish  is  washed  by  the 
Solway,  the  flat  shore  of  which  consists  of  sand  and 
clay ;  but  the  only  part  of  the  coast  approximating  to 
the  character  of  a  bay  is  the  curve  between  Redkirk  and 
Tordoff  points,  the  latter  of  which  is  about  two  miles 
from  Bowness,  on  the  opposite  shore.  The  Frith,  in 
the  widest  part,  is  between  four  and  five  miles  across  ; 
and  it  is  navigable  as  far  as  Sarkfoot,  in  this  parish, 
for  vessels  of  120  tons'  burthen.  The  tide  flows  with 
great  rapidity,  and  rises,  at  its  spring,  twenty  feet  above 
the  low-water  mark ;  when  it  recedes,  the  streams  of 
the  rivers  Esk  and  Eden,  which  run  into  the  Solway 
from  Cumberland,  are  seen  with  a  wide  bed  of  inter- 
mediate sand,  and  the  Frith  appears  like  a  sandy  waste, 


G  R  A  I 


GRAN 


for  a  distance  of  forty  miles,  to  the  south-western  ex- 
tremity of  Dumfriesshire,  where  the  river  Nith  joins  it. 
There  are  several  little  landing  places  along  the  shore  ; 
but  the  navigation  is  dangerous  to  those  not  acquainted 
with  the  soundings  of  the  Frith.  The  Kirtle  stream 
divides  the  parish  into  two  nearly  equal  portions. 
There  are  excellent  salmon-fisheries  on  the  coast,  and 
sturgeon,  cod,  and  herrings  are  occasionally  caught : 
salmon  ascend  the  rivers  for  spawning,  in  the  beginning 
of  October,  and  return  early  in  March. 

The  soil  near  the  sea  is  a  rich  loam,  with  a  subsoil 
of  deep  strong  clay,  and  has  the  appearance  of  having 
been  transported  hither  by  the  tides,  which  formerly 
came  much  higher  up  than  at  present.  Further  inland, 
the  earth  partakes  more  of  the  nature  of  clay  and 
gravel,  resting  upon  hills  of  sand  of  great  dimensions. 
Portions  of  peat-moss  are  seen  in  different  places,  in 
which  the  remains  of  large  oak-trees  are  imbedded;  and 
in  some  of  these,  silver  coins  have  been  discovered, 
without  a  date,  but  bearing  the  scarcely  legible  marks 
of  Canterbury  and  London,  and  partly  belonging  to 
the  reign  of  one  of  the  Edwards.  About  10,000  acres 
are  cultivated,  or  occasionally  in  tillage :  300  acres 
have  never  been  cultivated,  and  sixty  are  planted  with 
wood.  All  kinds  of  green  crops  and  grain  are  pro- 
duced, oats  being  the  chief  crop  of  the  latter;  and 
considerable  quantities  of  every  sort  of  live  stock  are 
kept.  The  most  improved  system  of  husbandry  is  fol- 
lowed :  the  manure  in  use  comprises  dung  and  lime,  and 
guano,  the  lime  being  brought  from  several  of  the  neigh- 
bouring parishes.  The  farms  have  been  considerably 
enlarged,  and  are  well  inclosed  with  hedges;  and  the 
superior  method  of  cultivation  which  has  been  pursued 
has  nearly  tripled  the  worth  of  the  land  since  the  year 
1790,  the  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  now 
amounting  to  £6069.  The  prevailing  rock  is  sandstone, 
through  which  many  excellent  springs  of  water  find  a 
passage.  Among  the  villages  and  hamlets  is  that  of 
Gretna,  where  a  weekly  cattle-market  was  formerly  held, 
and  which  was  a  burgh  of  barony :  the  cross  was 
standing  till  within  these  few  years.  The  ancient  man- 
sion of  Graitney  Hall,  in  which  one  of  the  landowners 
once  resided,  has  been  fitted  up  in  an  elegant  and  com- 
modious manner,  as  an  inn ;  it  is  properly  conducted, 
and  every  accommodation  may  be  had,  the  same  as  at 
the  best  inns  in  England.  The  population  are  partly 
engaged  in  agriculture  :  about  600  persons  are  cotton- 
weavers,  employed  by  Carlisle  houses,  and  who  receive 
the  yarn  regularly  every  fortnight.  Vessels  of  100  tons 
arrive  at  various  places  along  the  shore,  from  the  ports 
of  Cumberland,  and  bring  coal  to  the  amount  of  600 
tons  yearly,  together  with  about  an  equal  quantity  of 
slate.  Grain  and  potatoes  are  largely  exported  to  Liver- 
pool and  other  places  on  the  coast  of  Lancashire.  Till 
the  commencement  of  the  present  century,  an  extensive 
contraband  trade  was  carried  on  with  the  Isle  of  Man  ; 
but  this  traffic,  with  all  its  injurious  consequences,  has 
been  abolished.  The  turnpike-roads  between  Glasgow 
and  Carlisle,  and  between  Carlisle  and  Portpatrick,  run 
through  the  parish  ;  and  the  old  road  to  Carlisle  crosses 
the  Glasgow  road  at  the  village  of  Gretna,  where  is  a 
post-office,  connected  with  that  of  Carlisle.  There  are 
two  bridges  over  the  Sark,  and  one  over  the  Kirtle, 
which,  as  well  as  the  roads,  are  kept  in  good  order.  A 
cattle-market  is  held  in  June,  and  fairs  on  the  loth  of 
517 


September,  the   first   Thursday  after    Falkirk    tryst  in 
October,  and  the  second  Thursday  in  November. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  pres- 
bytery of  Annan  and  synod  of  Dumfries  ;  patron,  the 
Earl  of  Mansfield.  The  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £237  : 
the  manse  has  recently  been  enlarged  and  repaired,  and 
is  now  a  comfortable  residence ;  the  glebe  consists  of 
about  sixteen  acres,  valued  at  £2S  per  annum.  The 
church  was  built  in  1790,  and  is  a  commodious  building 
capable  of  containing  800  persons.  There  is  a  meeting- 
house at  the  village  of  Rigg,  belonging  to  the  United 
Associate  Synod.  Two  parochial  schools  are  supported, 
in  which  the  usual  branches  of  education  are  taught, 
and  the  masters  of  which  have  each  £25  a  year,  with 
fees  amounting  to  about  £24  and  £20  respectively.  A 
friendly  society  was  instituted  more  than  fifty  years 
ago.  There  are  several  ruinous  towers  in  the  parish,  the 
relics  of  ancient  times,  and  raised  for  the  defence  of  the 
inhabitants  against  the  English  borderers  ;  the  walls 
were  of  great  thickness,  and  the  doors  of  massive  iron, 
and  within  were  formed  caves  for  the  safe  custody  of 
cattle,  &c.  They  have  port-holes  above,  for  the  in- 
specting or  carrying  on  of  warlike  operations.  The 
lands  of  Redkirk  were  formerly  a  separate  parish  ;  but 
its  church,  situated  at  Redkirk  point,  has  been  entirely 
swept  away  by  the  repeated  encroachment  of  the  tide. 
The  remains  of  a  Druidical  temple  are  still  visible  on 
the  farm  of  Old  Graitney ;  and  there  are  also  the  re- 
mains of  several  old  camps  in  the  neighbourhood.  This 
being  the  nearest  and  most  easily  accessible  point  in 
Scotland  from  the  sister  kingdom,  it  has  long  been  a 
place  for  fugitive  marriages,  first  celebrated  here  by  a 
man  named  Paisley,  a  tobacconist,  whose  original  resi- 
dence was  on  a  green  between  Gretna  and  Springfield, 
to  the  latter  of  which  villages  he  removed  in  1*82.  It 
is  said  that  between  300  and  400  marriages  are  annu- 
ally celebrated  in  the  neighbourhood  by  rival  "  priests," 
functionaries  of  the  lowest  class,  who  accost  parties  as 
they  pass,  and  officiate  for  a  very  small  charge.  An 
attempt  was  made  in  the  General  Assembly,  in  1826, 
to  suppress  this  description  of  marriage,  but  without 
success.     Paisley  died  at  a  great  age,  in  1814. 

GRANGE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Banff,  3  miles 
(E.  by  N.)  from  Keith  ;  containing  1661  inhabitants. 
This  place  originally  formed  a  part  of  the  parish  of 
Keith,  from  which  it  was  separated  in  the  year  1618; 
it  took  its  name  from  the  circumstance  of  its  being  a 
country  residence  belonging  to  the  abbots  of  Kinloss, 
to  whom  it  was  given  by  William  the-  Lion  in  the  12th 
century.  Attracted  by  the  beauty  of  the  place,  at  that 
time  mostly  under  wood,  the  abbots  had  a  castle  here, 
situated  upon  an  eminence,  partly  natural  and  partly 
artificial,  and  overlooking  rich  and  extensive  haughs, 
enlivened  and  refreshed  for  several  miles  by  the  mean- 
derings  of  the  picturesque  Isla.  In  the  neighbourhood 
is  the  Gallow-hill,  the  spot  upon  which  criminals  were 
executed  within  the  local  jurisdiction.  At  the  time  of 
the  Reformation,  the  abbot,  anticipating  the  change 
about  to  take  place,  feued  out  the  district  into  many 
small  properties,  of  which  that  of  Edingight  still  be- 
longs to  the  descendant  of  the  original  feuar,  and  about 
four-fifths  of  the  others  to  Lord  Fife,  who  inherits  from 
his  ancestor,  Alexander  Duff,  of  Braco,  another  of  the 
first  feuars.  The  remaining  portion  is  in  the  possession 
of  the  Earl  of  Seafield. 


GRAN 


GRAN 


The  parish  is  six  miles  in  length  and  five  in  breadth, 
and  comprises  about  "20,000  acres,  of  which  a  large  por- 
tion is  under  cultivation :  there  are  extensive  plan- 
tations of  young  wood.  The  surface  is  much  diversified, 
and  consists  of  high  and  low  ground,  the  latter  com- 
prehending most  of  the  cultivated  parts  :  on  the  east  is 
the  Knock,  an  eminence  rising  1600  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  cultivated  to  a  considerable  height. 
This  hill  is  chiefly  covered  with  deep  peat  and  heather, 
the  moss  running,  at  the  summit,  to  the  depth  of  eight 
or  ten  feet  ■  and  from  it  a  very  fine  and  extensive  view 
may  be  obtained  both  of  land  and  sea.  In  the  dry 
summer  of  1826,  its  sides  were  surrounded  by  a  con- 
flagration, destroying  the  combustible  portion  of  the 
surface  ;  but  it  has  not  been  ascertained  in  what  way 
the  fire  originated.  There  are  also  several  lofty  hills  in 
the  northern  part  of  the  parish ;  in  the  southern  divi- 
sion are  two  called  the  Mickle  and  Little  Balloch,  or- 
namented around  their  base  with  wood ;  and  in 
the  centre  is  the  Sillyearn,  where  there  is  a  young, 
though  large  and  thriving,  plantation.  The  scenery  is 
much  indebted  for  its  variety  to  its  sylvan  beauties, 
and  to  the  course  of  its  interesting  stream,  on  the  south 
of  which  a  wide  belt  of  larch  and  Scotch  fir,  of  recent 
growth,  especially  improves  the  locality ;  and  the  Isla 
is  rendered  still  more  striking  in  pictorial  effect  by  an 
ancient  bridge,  erected  by  a  Mr.  Christie,  to  render  the 
church  accessible  to  the  residents  of'Cantly.  This  bene- 
volent act  was  notified,  and  the  memory  of  it  trans- 
mitted to  posterity,  by  an  inscription  on  a  stone  once 
part  .of  the  bridge,  but  now  supposed  to  be  submerged 
in  the  flood  below,  consisting  of  these  words  :  "  Built 
by  Alexander  Christie,  tenant  in  Cantly,  for  the  glory 
of  God,  and  the  good  of  the  people  of  Grange."  A 
provision  was  made  for  the  repairs  of  the  bridge  by  the 
deposit  of  100  merks  in  the  hands  of  the  laird  of  Edin- 
gight;  and  though  this  sum  is  supposed  to  have  been 
long  since  exhausted,  an  addition  was  made  to  the 
structure  in  the  year  1/83,  by  erecting,  and  cementing 
to  it,  another  bridge  of  the  same  size,  to  render  it 
passable  by  carts,  the  first  being  only  for  foot-pas- 
sengers. The  cost  of  this  was  defrayed  by  the  transfer, 
on  the  part  of  the  patron,  of  the  vacant  stipend  of  that 
year. 

The  soil  in  some  parts  is  very  good,  particularly  on 
the  banks  of  the  Isla,  where  the  ground,  having  a  fine 
southern  exposure,  is  tolerably  dry,  and  produces  early 
crops  ;  but  in  the  other  parts,  especially  in  the  northern 
quarter,  the  soil  is  clayey,  cold,  and  wet,  with  an  imper- 
vious subsoil,  and  not  only  comparatively  unproductive, 
but  frequently  of  very  poor  quality.  Oats  forms  the 
staple  crop  of  grain ;  and  the  green  crops  consist  of 
rye-grass  and  white  and  red  clover.  Husbandry  is  on 
a  very  respectable  footing,  and  the  six-shift  course  is 
that  chiefly  followed  :  bone-manure  is  much  used  for 
turnip-soils,  and  most  of  the  larger  farms  have 
threshing-mills,  and  are  inclosed  with  limestone  dikes 
and  good  hedges.  The  portion  under  tillage  is  gradu- 
ally increasing  in  extent ;  and  many  of  the  lower  parts 
of  the  heathy  and  mossy  hill  of  Aulmore,  which  is  in- 
terspersed with  numerous  cottages  of  the  poor,  have 
been  brought  into  cultivation.  Substantial  embank- 
ments, also,  have  been  raised  on  some  of  the  farms, 
against  the  floodings  of  the  Isla  ;  and  on  the  better 
cultivated  lands,  all  the  implements  of  agriculture  are 
518 


of  the  best  description,  and  the  horses  and  cattle  of  a 
superior  stock.  Limestone  of  very  fine  quality  is  abun- 
dant, and  is  constantly  worked  to  a  great  extent ;  many 
of  the  small  farms  have  lime-kilns,  and  large  lime-works 
are  also  in  operation.  At  a  place  called  Seggiecroolc 
is  a  bed  of  plumbago.  The  deep  and  wide-spreading 
mosses  supply  abundance  of  peat  for  fuel ;  and  the 
residue  of  the  woods  once  beautifying  the  locality,  is 
found  deeply  imbedded,  comprising  thick  logs  of  oak 
and  fir.     The  rateable  annual  value  of  Grange  is  £5299. 

The  mansion  of  Edingight,  in  the  parish,  is  an  ancient 
structure,  irregularly  built,  and  standing  on  an  estate 
ornamented  with  young  plantations  covering  fifty  or 
sixty  acres.  Braco  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the 
ancient  family  of  Duff.  There  is  a  hamlet  named  Nether- 
mills  ;  and  the  parish  is  traversed  by  the  turnpike-road 
from  Keith  to  Banff :  the  produce,  consisting  of  grain, 
pork,  and  fat-cattle,  is  shipped  chiefly  at  Banff,  for  the 
London  market.  Grange  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Strath- 
bogie  and  synod  of  Moray,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the 
Earl  of  Fife;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £165,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  of  five  acres,  valued  at  £7  per 
annum.  The  church  was  built  in  1795,  and  contains 
6 16  sittings;  it  is  situated  within  a  mile  of  the  border 
of  the  parish,  on  the  site  of  the  old  castle  occupied  by 
the  abbots  of  Kinloss.  There  is  a  place  of  worship 
for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  and  another  for  the 
United  Associate  Synod.  The  parochial  school  affords 
instruction  in  the  usual  branches ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  with  a  house,  and  about  £6  fees.  He 
also  receives  a  bequest  of  £1.  2.  yearly  ;  the  interest  of 
£100  left  by  the  late  Rev.  Mr.  Bruce,  minister  of 
Dunbar  ;  and  a  portion  of  the  Dick  bequest.  There  is 
likewise  a  General  Assembly's  school,  the  master  of 
which  has  £25  per  annum,  with  a  small  piece  of  land : 
the  premises  were  built  by  subscription,  in  1827, 
through  the  exertions  of  the  minister,  the  Rev.  W.  Duff; 
and  the  tenants  on  the  estate  subscribe  for  the  rent 
of  the  master's  allotment.  The  Earl  of  Fife  derives  his 
title  of  Baron  Braco  from  the  farm  of  that  name. 

GRANGE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  and  district  of 
St.  Andrew's,  county  of  Fife,  l£  mile  (S.  by  E.)  from 
St.  Andrew's ;  containing  84  inhabitants.  It  lies  a 
short  distance  west  of  the  high  road  from  West  Anstru- 
ther  to  St.  Andrew's. 

GRANGE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Errol,  county 
of  Perth,  2  miles  (N.  E.  by  N.)  from  Errol;  contain- 
ing 68  inhabitants.  It  is  seated  on  the  road  from  Errol 
to  Invergowrie,  and  is  one  of  several  small  hamlets  in 
the  parish,  besides  the  village  of  Errol,  in  which  the 
linen-cloth  manufacture  engages  a  part  of  the  popula- 
tion. 

GRANGEMOUTH,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in 
the  county  of  Stirling;  comprising  the  sea-port  town 
of  Grangemouth,  in  the  parish  of  Falkirk,  and  also  part 
of  Polmont  parish  ;  the  whole  containing  1722  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  1488  are  in  the  town,  3  miles  (N.  E.) 
from  Falkirk.  This  place  derives  its  name  from  its 
original  situation  at  the  mouth  of  the  Grange  burn,  a 
stream  flowing  round  the  grange  of  the  ancient  abbey  of 
Abbotshaugh,  but  now,  by  a  recent  diversion  of  its 
course,  falling  into  the  river  Carron  at  a  considerable 
distance  to  the  east.  The  town,  which  is  situated  at 
the  eastern  extremity  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde  canal,  was 
commenced  in  the  year  1777,  by  Sir  Laurence  Dundas. 


GRAN 


GRAN 


The  streets  may  be  said  to  be  regularly  formed,  and  the 
houses  are  well  built  and  of  handsome  appearance  ;  the 
environs  are  pleasant,  and  the  place  has  generally  a 
cheerful  and  prepossessing  aspect.  The  trade  of  the 
port  has  been  progressively  increasing  since  the  forma- 
tion of  the  harbour  ;  and  in  1S10,  an  independent  cus- 
tom-house was  in  consequence  established  here.  The 
trade  consists  principally  in  the  exportation  of  coal, 
glass,  and  bricks  to  Russia,  Sweden,  and  Norway  ;  pig 
and  wrought  iron,  to  Denmark  ;  coal,  soap,  woollens,  and 
pig-iron,  to  Prussia;  coal,  pig  and  cast  iron,  and  cotton 
manufactures,  to  Holland ;  pig  and  cast  iron  to  Ger- 
many ;  coal,  pig-iron,  glass,  and  bricks,  to  France,  Por- 
tugal, Italy,  and  Turkey  ;  glass,  and  woollen  and  cotton 
manufactures,  to  Van  Diemen's  Land ;  coal,  bricks, 
cordage,  woollens,  and  cottons,  to  Canada  and  New 
Brunswick  ;  and  coal  and  beer  to  the  ports  of  Brazil.  The 
imports  are  chiefly  corn,  tallow,  flax,  hemp,  matting, 
tar,  bristles,  and  wooden  wares,  from  Russia ;  manga- 
nese ore,  pitch,  and  linseed-cakes,  from  Sweden  ;  corn 
from  Denmark  and  Germany ;  corn,  flax,  timber,  and 
wooden  wares,  from  Prussia ;  bark,  cheese,  madder,  and 
geneva,  from  Holland ;  and  timber  from  Canada  and 
New  Brunswick.  The  number  of  vessels  that  cleared 
outwards  in  a  recent  year  to  foreign  ports  was  615,  of 
the  aggregate  burthen  of  61,979  tons  ;  the  number  that 
entered  inwards  from  foreign  ports  was  14S,  of  21,145 
tons  ;  and  the  amount  of  duties  paid  at  the  custom- 
house was  £20,000.  This  sum,  however,  does  not  show 
the  full  trade  of  the  place,  as  a  large  part  of  the  goods 
imported  was  removed,  under  bond,  to  Glasgow,  where 
the  duties  were  paid.  The  number  of  vessels  regis- 
tered as  belonging  to  the  port,  in  the  same  year,  was 
fifty-two,  of  72*0  tons'  aggregate  burthen.  A  con- 
siderable coasting  trade  is  also  carried  on  here ;  and 
a  very  extensive  inland  trade  by  means  of  the  Forth 
and  Clyde  canal,  which  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  ninety 
tons  from  this  place  to  Port-Dundas,  near  Glasgow,  and 
also  to  the  Clyde,  and  through  which  the  number  of 
vessels  that  passed  in  a  late  year  was  2959.  The  cus- 
tom-house establishment  consists  of  a  collector,  comp- 
troller, clerk,  two  land-waiters,  six  tide-waiters,  and  a 
locker ;  and  the  officers  of  the  Canal  Company  here,  are 
a  collector,  overseer  of  works,  and  a  harbour-master. 

The  harbour  and  quays  are  situated  near  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Carron,  at  its  junction  with  the  Forth  and 
Clyde  canal.  Considerable  improvements  have  been 
recently  made,  under  the  superintendence  of  Sir  John 
Macueill,  civil  engineer,  of  London,  employed  for  that 
purpose  by  the  late  Earl  of  Zetland  and  the  council 
of  the  Canal  Company.  According  to  the  plan  adopted, 
the  channel  of  the  Grange  burn  has  been  changed,  and 
a  spacious  wet-dock  to  the  east  of  the  harbour  has  been 
constructed,  which  is  twenty-seven  feet  in  depth,  and 
capable  of  receiving  seventy  sail  of  merchantmen  or 
steamers  of  the  largest  class.  The  entrance-lock  is  250 
feet  in  length  and  55  feet  broad,  and  the  facilities  of  trade 
have  been  consequently  greatly  increased.  The  basin 
for  bonded  timber  has  been  very  much  enlarged  ;  and  a 
canal,  fifteen  feet  in  depth,  has  been  cut,  forming  a 
communication  between  it  and  the  wet-dock.  The  river 
Carron  has  been  deepened  so  as  to  allow  canal  traders, 
drawing  nine  feet  water,  to  enter  and  to  depart  at  low 
tides ;  and  all  the  local  advantages  of  the  port  have 
been  rendered  available  to  its  improvement,  and  to  the 
519 


extension  of  its  commerce.  Ship-building  is  carried  on 
with  success ;  and  a  graving-dock,  which,  at  spring 
tides,  has  a  depth  of  fourteen  feet,  was  constructed  by 
Lord  Dundas  in  1811,  and  is  capable  of  receiving  two 
vessels  of  300  tons'  burthen.  The  first  steam-boat  built 
here,  was  launched  in  1839  as  a  towing  vessel  for  the 
port  of  Memel  :  the  vessels  generally  built  at  this  place 
vary  from  ninety  to  250  tons.  The  manufacture  of  sails 
and  ropes  is  also  extensive,  and  considerable  quantities 
are  exported  to  the  colonies.  The  distance  from  the 
quay  to  the  farthest  beacon  at  the  mouth  of  the  Carron, 
is  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half :  vessels  were  formerly  ex- 
clusively conducted  by  the  Carron  pilots  stationed  here 
under  the  Trinity  House  of  Leith,  but  they  are  now 
partly  towed  by  steam-boats. 

The  parochial  district  until  recently  attached  to  the 
port,  was  separated  for  ecclesiastical  purposes  soon 
after  the  erection  of  a  church  here  in  1837.  It  com- 
prised about  1300  acres,  of  which  100,  forming  the 
demesne  of  Kerse  House,  a  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Zetland, 
are  ornamented  with  thriving  plantations,  and  the  re- 
mainder is  divided  into  farms  not  exceeding  120  acres 
each.  The  surface  is  generally  fiat,  and  the  soil  almost 
uniformly  a  rich  alluvial  clay,  with  a  small  intermixture 
of  fine  white  sand  ;  the  lands  are  well  cultivated,  and 
the  crops  are  usually  favourable.  Kerse  House  is  the 
principal  mansion  in  the  district  ;  it  is  surrounded  with 
thriving  plantations,  and  there  are  a  few  trees  around 
some  of  the  farm-houses  ;  but  otherwise  there  is  little 
wood  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  church  was  erected 
by  the  late  earl,  and  is  situated  near  Kerse  House  ;  it  is  a 
handsome  structure  in  the  Norman  style  of  architecture, 
and  contains  700  sittings,  exclusively  of  the  front  gal- 
lery, which  is  appropriated  to  the  family  of  the  founder. 
In  the  year  1843,  this  edifice,  with  the  consent  of  the 
Earl  of  Zetland,  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  members 
of  the  Free  Church,  of  whom  there  is  now  a  very  consi- 
derable congregation  :  the  minister  derives  his  stipend 
from  the  sustentation  fund  of  the  Free  Church,  aided  by 
his  hearers.  The  only  other  place  of  worship  is  one  for 
Baptists  ;  but  many  of  the  inhabitants  attend  places  of 
worship  at  Falkirk.  Schools  for  boys  and  girls,  with 
dwelling-houses  for  the  master  and  mistress,  and  a 
room  which  is  used  as  a  library,  were  erected  by  the 
late  Lady  Dundas,  in  1827.  The  master  has  a  salary 
of  £10,  and  the  mistress  of  £5,  paid  by  the  Earl  of 
Zetland,  with  an  allowance  for  the  gratuitous  instruction 
of  poor  children ;  and  the  fees  average  £40  and  £20 
per  annum,  respectively. 

GRANGEPANS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Carri- 
den,  county  of  Linlithgow,  |  a  mile  (E.  by  S.)  from 
Borrowstounness ;  containing  517  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  on  the  south  shore  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and 
nearly  equidistant  from  Borrowstounness  and  Bridge- 
ness.  The  place  has  been  for  some  time  the  seat  of  the 
salt  manufacture,  and  although  the  trade  in  the  article 
has  been  much  reduced,  yet  in  1834  there  were  six  pans 
in  operation,  producing  annually  about  23,000  bushels  ; 
in  1843  the  number  of  pans  had  decreased  to  four.  In 
the  village  is  also  a  malting  establishment ;  and  until 
lately  the  manufacture  of  sal-ammoniac  was  carried  on. 
The  mansion-house  of  Grange  is  of  some  antiquity,  and, 
having  undergone  repair,  is  now  occupied  by  a  tenant. 
The  coast  road  from  Borrowstounness  to  Bridgeness 
passes  through  the  village. 


GRAN 


GRE  E 


GRANTON,  a  growing  town,  in  the  parish  of  Cra- 
mond,  county  of  Edinburgh,  1\  miles  (N.  W.)  from 
Edinburgh.  This  place,  formerly  remarkable  only  as 
the  spot  where  the  English  troops  under  the  Earl  of 
Hertford  disembarked  in  the  year  1544,  now  claims 
importance  for  its  magnificent  and  extensive  pier,  the 
finest  landing-place  in  the  Frith  of  Forth.  This  truly 
national  work  was  erected,  at  his  sole  expense,  by  the 
Duke  of  Buccleuch,  who  is  proprietor  of  the  estate  of 
Caroline  Park,  formerly  called  Granton.  It  was  com- 
menced in  November,  1835,  and  partially  opened  on 
the  28th  of  June,  1838,  the  day  of  the  coronation  of  Her 
Majesty,  by  Lord  John  Scott,  brother  of  his  Grace,  in 
presence  of  an  immense  concourse  of  spectators  ;  and  in 
commemoration  of  the  day,  one  of  the  jetties  is  named 
the  "Victoria."  Vessels  and  steamers  of  the  largest 
size  can  approach  the  pier,  which  is  1700  feet  in  length, 
and  varies  in  breadth  from  eighty  to  160  feet;  it  has 
a  massive  wall  with  occasional  entrances  to  each  side  of 
the  pier,  running  up  the  centre  ;  and  the  whole  is  of  the 
most  solid  and  beautiful  masonry.  The  Victoria  jetty, 
on  the  west  side,  extends  ninety  feet ;  on  the  east  side 
is  a  jetty  of  similar  dimensions  ;  and  two  others  are  at 
the  distance  of  about  350  feet  seawards.  There  are 
also  two  slips  for  shipping  cattle ;  and  a  lighthouse  at 
the  extremity  of  the  pier.  On  the  Queen's  visit  to  this 
part  of  her  dominions  in  IS42,  Granton  pier  was  the 
place  of  Her  Majesty's  landing,  on  the  1st  of  September, 
and  of  her  embarkation,  on  her  return  to  England,  on 
the  15th  of  the  same  month.  In  July,  1844,  an  act  was 
obtained  for  the  extension  of  the  Edinburgh  and  New- 
haven  railway  to  Granton ;  the  line  has  been  com- 
menced, and,  it  is  expected,  will  be  completed  in  1846. 
An  elegant  and  commodious  inn  has  been  erected  here 
by  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch,  and  there  is  already  the 
nucleus  of  a  handsome  town  and  sea-port.  The  most 
direct  road  from  Edinburgh  to  Granton  is  by  Inverleith- 
row,  at  the  head  of  which  is  the  new  road,  on  the  left, 
through  Wardie  grounds. 

GRANTOWN,  a  town,  in  the  parish  of  Cromdale, 
county  of  Inverness,  135  miles  (N.  by  W.)  from  Edin- 
burgh ;  containing  1000  inhabitants.  This  place,  situated 
about  half  a  mile  north  of  the  river  Spey,  was  founded 
upon  an  uncultivated  moor,  in  1/66,  by  Sir  James 
Grant,  of  Grant,  Bart.,  since  which  it  has  risen  to  a 
flourishing  condition,  and  become  one  of  the  neatest  and 
most  interesting  towns,  in  appearance,  in  the  north  of 
Scotland.  It  contains  several  good  shops  :  and  in  its 
centre  is  a  spacious  square,  700  feet  in  length,  and  180 
in  breadth,  on  the  south  side  of  which  is  the  Speyside 
Orphan  Hospital,  built  in  1S24,  with  money  left  by  Lady 
Grant,  of  Monymusk.  This  charity  is  supported  from 
a  fund  amounting  to  nearly  £200  per  annum,  which  has 
increased  to  the  present  sum  by  additions  from  the 
Grant  family  :  the  children,  now  about  thirty  in  num- 
ber, must  be  natives  of  the  parishes  of  Cromdale,  Aber- 
nethy,  Duthil,  Inveraven,  or  Knockando,  and  they  are 
boarded,  clothed,  and  educated.  A  branch  of  the  Na- 
tional Bank  of  Scotland  was  established  in  1829,  and  a 
branch  of  the  Caledonian  Bank  in  1839 ;  there  is  also  a 
prison  in  the  town.  The  post-office  communicates  daily 
with  Carr-bridge,  Forres,  and  Ballindalloch  ;  and  a  good 
road  runs  from  the  place  to  Keith,  and  another  to 
Forres.  There  are  four  annual  markets,  exclusive  of 
cattle-trysts  ;  cattle  are  purchased  here  by  graziers  for 
520 


the  southern  markets,  and  much  traffic  is  also  carried 
on  with  the  surrounding  districts.  A  church  was  built 
in  1802,  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  town,  containing 
accommodation  for  nearly  1000  persons  ;  and  the  paro- 
chial minister  officiated  here  alternately  with  the  church 
at  Cromdale,  till  the  year  1S35,  when  an  ordained 
minister  was  appointed  to  this  station,  comprehending 
the  old  parish  of  Inverallan.  There  is  also  a  place  of 
worship  for  Baptists.  A  grammar  school  was  built  a  few 
years  since  by  the  proprietor,  from  whom  the  master 
receives  a  salary  of  £25  per  annum  :  in  addition  to  the 
usual  branches,  instruction  is  given  in  the  classics  and 
mathematics. 

GRASSHOUSES  OF  THORNTON,  a  hamlet,  in  the 
parish  of  Glammis,  county  of  Forfar  ;  containing  74 
inhabitants. 

GRAYSTONE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  ofCARMYHE, 
county  of  Forfar,  4  miles  (S.  byE.)  from  Letham  ;  con- 
taining 79  inhabitants.  It  lies  about  a  mile  westward 
of  the  high  road  from  Monikie  to  Brechin  ;  and  is  one 
of  several  small  hamlets,  of  which  the  largest  contains 
about  twenty  houses. 

GREAT  CUMBRAY.  — See  Cumbray,  Great.— 
And  all  places  having  a  similar  distinguishing  prefix,  will 
be  found  under  the  proper  name. 

GREEN  HOLM,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  North- 
mayine,  county  of  Shetland.  It  lies  a  short  distance 
north  of  the  main  land  of  Northmavine,  between  Fetha- 
land  point  and  Romna  Stacks,  and  is  uninhabited. 

GREEN  HOLM,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Tingwall, 
county  of  Shetland.  This  is  an  islet  of  very  inconsi- 
derable extent,  one  of  the  smallest  of  the  Shetland 
group,  situated  about  a  mile  south-west  of  Scalloway,  a 
sea-port  village  on  the  main  land  of  the  parish.  It  is 
uninhabited. 

GREEN  HOLM,  LITTLE  and  MUCKLE,  two  isles, 
in  the  parish  of  Eday,  county  of  Orkney.  They  lie  to 
the  south  of  the  island  of  Eday,  about  a  mile  distant 
from  Warness  point.  The  larger  is  appropriated  to  the 
pasturage  of  cattle  and  sheep ;  the  smaller  is  very  in- 
considerable, and  both  are  uninhabited. 

GREENEND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Old  Monk- 
land,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  1  mile 
(S.  W.)  from  Airdrie ;  containing  502  inhabitants.  It 
is  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  a  short  dis- 
tance north  of  the  Calder  water,  which  is  here  very 
devious  in  its  course ;  and  is  one  of  numerous  large 
villages  which  have  latterly  sprung  up  in  this  wealthy 
mining  parish,  now  the  principal  seat  of  the  iron  manu- 
facture in  Scotland.  The  village  is  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  great  Calder  iron-works,  and  of  extensive 
coal-mines,  in  both  of  which  a  large  portion  of  the  male 
population  is  engaged. 

GREENGAIRS,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  New 
Monkland,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark, 
3  miles  (N.  E.)  from  New  Monkland;  containing  184 
inhabitants.  This  place  is  situated  in  the  north-east 
part  of  the  parish,  and  is  divided  into  East  and  West. 
It  is  one  of  several  thriving  villages  which  owe  their 
prosperity  and  increase  of  population  to  the  valuable 
coal  and  iron  mines  of  the  district.  The  high  road 
from  New  Monkland  to  Slamannan  church  runs  for  a 
short  distance  on  the  south;  and  in  the  neighbourhood 
are  some  small  streams.  In  the  village  is  a  school,  with 
a  house  for  the  master. 


GREE 


GREE 


GREENHILL,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Lochma- 
ben,  county  of  Dumfries,  2  miles  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from 
Lockerbie  ;  containing  S9  inhabitants.  It  is  seated  in 
the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  and  on  the  west  side  of 
the  river  Annan,  which  winds  along  the  borders  of 
Lochmaben,  and  separates  it  from  the  parish  of  Dryfes- 
dale. 

GREENLAW,  a  burgh  of  barony,  the  county  town, 
and  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Berwick,  8  miles  (S.  W.) 
from  Dunse,  and  36  (S.  E.  by  E.)  from  Edinburgh ; 
containing  1355  inhabitants.  This  place  is  supposed 
to  have  derived  its  name  from  the  situation  of  the 
ancient  village  on  one  of  those  conical  eminences  of 
which  there  are  several  in  the  parish,  which  eminence, 
from  its  superior  verdure,  obtained  the  appellation  of 
the  Green  Law.  The  manor  anciently  belonged  to  the 
earls  of  Dunbar,  under  whom  Sir  Patrick  Home,  ances- 
tor of  the  Home  family,  held  the  lands  in  1435,  when 
the  earldom  became  annexed  to  the  crown.  After  Ber- 
wick had  ceased  to  be  part  of  Scotland,  in  14S2,  the 
courts  of  justice  previously  held  there  were  generally 
held  at  Dunse,  and  occasionally  at  Lauder,  till  towards 
the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  when  the  town  of 
Greenlaw  was  declared,  by  act  of  parliament,  to  be  the 
head  burgh  of  the  shire.  Since  that  time  this  has  con- 
tinued to  be  the  county  town.  The  burgh,  of  which 
Sir  Hugh  Hume  Purves  Campbell,  of  Marchmont,  Bart., 
is  superior,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  north  bank  of 
the  river  Blackadder,  over  which  are  two  bridges  of 
stone  ;  and  consists  principally  of  one  street  of  con- 
siderable length,  opening,  on  the  south  side,  into  a  spa- 
cious quadrangular  area.  In  the  centre  of  this  area 
was  the  market  cross,  a  handsome  Corinthian  column, 
erected  by  the  Earl  of  Marchmont,  and  on  the  site  of 
which  is  the  present  county-hall.  The  houses  are  neatly 
built ;  and  the  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  with  water, 
conveyed  into  two  spacious  reservoirs  of  stone,  erected 
at  the  expense  of  the  superior  of  the  burgh.  A  public 
library,  containing  a  well-assorted  collection  of  volumes, 
is  supported  by  subscription;  and  there  are  several 
good  inns  in  the  town. 

No  manufacture  is  carried  on  here,  and  only  a  few  per- 
sons are  employed  in  a  carding  and  fulling  mill  ;  a  con- 
siderable degree  of  traffic,  however,  arises  from  its  situ- 
ation as  a  public  thoroughfare,  and  there  is  a  post-office 
subordinate  to  that  of  Dunse.  The  weekly  market  has 
long  been  discontinued  :  but  fairs  are  held  on  the  22nd 
of  May,  and  the  last  Thursday  in  October,  for  milch- 
cows  and  various  kinds  of  cattle,  and  are  numerously 
attended.  Facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  the 
great  road  from  London  to  Edinburgh,  by  way  of  Cold- 
stream, and  others  that  pass  through  the  place.  As  the 
county  town,  the  sheriff's  and  usual  courts  are  held,  and 
the  public  business  of  the  county  transacted,  here ;  the 
sheriff's  and  commissary  courts  occur  every  Thursday 
during  the  session,  and  the  justice-of-peace  courts  for 
small  debts,  monthly.  The  county-hall  is  a  handsome 
structure  in  the  Grecian  style  of  architecture,  erected  by 
the  late  Sir  W.  P.  H.  Campbell,  and  contains  a  hall 
sixty  feet  long,  forty  feet  wide,  and  twenty-eight  feet  in 
height,  ornamented  with  columns  of  the  Corinthian 
order;  also  various  apartments  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  sheriffs  and  others  attending  the  county  meetings. 
The  principal  entrance  is  by  an  elegant  vestibule,  lighted 
by  a  dome,  and  containing  a  room  for  the  preservation 
Vol.  I.— 521 


of  the  records.  The  new  gaol,  erected  in  1824,  is  a 
neat  building  containing  eighteen  sleeping-cells,  two 
day-rooms  for  criminals,  and  one  for  debtors  ;  attached 
to  the  day-rooms  are  spacious  airing-yards,  to  which 
the  prisoners  have  access  during  the  day,  and  the  whole 
is  surrounded  by  a  lofty  wall.  There  is  a  plentiful  sup- 
ply of  water ;  and  the  prison  is  under  excellent  ma- 
nagement. 

The  parish  is  from  eight  to  nine  miles  in  length,  and 
nearly  three  miles  in  average  breadth,  comprising  an 
area  of  about  12,000  acres,  of  which  nearly  7000  are 
arable,  500  woodland  and  plantations,  1200  undivided 
common  affording  good  pasture,  and  the  remainder 
moor,  moss,  and  waste.  The  surface  is  diversified  with 
hills  of  no  great  elevation,  and,  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
parish,  is  intersected  for  almost  two  miles  by  a  gravelly 
ridge  called  the  Kaimes,  about  sixty  yards  in  width  at 
the  base,  and  forty  feet  high.  On  the  south  side  of  this 
ridge  is  the  moss  of  Dugden,  500  acres  in  extent,  and 
in  some  places  ten  feet  deep,  yielding  peat  which,  when 
properly  dried,  is  little  inferior  to  coal.  The  only  river 
of  importance  is  the  Blackadder,  which  flows  through 
the  parish,  dividing  it  into  two  nearly  equal  parts,  and, 
about  two  miles  above  the  town,  being  joined  by  a 
small  stream  called  the  Faungrass ;  it  abounds  with 
trout,  and  is  much  frequented  by  anglers.  The  soil  on 
the  south  side  of  the  Blackadder  is  a  deep  rich  loam, 
producing  grain  of  excellent  quality,  and  on  the  north 
side,  moorland  and  heath  ;  the  crops  are,  wheat,  oats, 
barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  with  the  usual  grasses. 
The  system  of  husbandry  is  in  an  improved  state  ;  the 
lands  have  been  drained  and  partly  inclosed,  and  the 
farm-buildings  are  generally  substantial.  The  pastures 
are  well  adapted  for  sheep  and  black-cattle,  of  which 
considerable  numbers  are  reared  in  the  parish ;  and  horses 
for  agricultural  purposes  are  bred  upon  many  of  the 
farms.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £7410. 
The  rocks  are  mostly  of  the  primitive  formation,  and 
the  substrata  principally  red  sandstone  ;  white  sand- 
stone and  a  claystone  porphyry  are  also  found  in  some 
places.  The  mansions  are  Rowchester  and  Lambden, 
both  of  modern  erection  :  the  pleasure-grounds  and 
house  of  Marchmont,  also,  the  noble  seat  of  Sir  H.  H.  P. 
Campbell,  though  situated  in  the  adjoining  parish  of 
Polwarth,  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  of 
Greenlaw.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Dunse  and  synod 
of  Merse  and  Teviotdale.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£254.  15.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £30 
per  annum  ;  patron,  Sir  H.  H.  P.  Campbell.  The  church, 
situated  in  the  town,  is  a  plain  structure  in  good  repair, 
containing  476  sittings.  There  are  places  of  worship 
for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  the  United  Secession, 
and  Original  Burghers.  The  parochial  school  is  attended 
by  about  130  children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £50. 
Sir  W.  P.  H.  Campbell  bequeathed  £50  per  annum  to  the 
poor.  There  are  some  remains  of  a  Roman  camp  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Blackadder,  about  two  miles  from  the 
town ;  and  directly  opposite  to  it,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  river,  several  trenches  diverge  towards  Hume  Castle, 
four  miles  distant.  On  the  north-east  of  the  parish,  also, 
are  still  visible  the  remains  of  an  intrenchment,  inter- 
secting the  moor  from  east  to  west  for  more  than  a 
mile ;  it  is  called  Herriot's  Dyke. 

3  X 


G  R  E  E 


GREE 


Burgh  Seal. 


GREENLOANING,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Dun- 
blane, county  of  Perth,  5  miles  (N.  E.  by  N.)  from 
Dunblane  ;  containing  5S^inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in 
the  north-east  part  of  the  parish,  and  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  river  Allan  :  there  .is  a  Secession  place  of  wor- 
ship. 

GREENOCK,  a  sea-port, 
burgh,  and  market-town,  in 
the  Lower  ward  of  the  county 
of  Renfrew,  17  miles  (W.  N. 
W.)  from  Renfrew,  22  (W.  N. 
W.)  from  Glasgow,  and  65 
(W.)  from  Edinburgh  ;  com- 
prising the  parishes  of  East, 
Middle,  and  West  Greenock, 
and  containing  36,936  inha- 
bitants. This  place  is  said 
by  some  to  have  derived  its 
name,  in  the  Gaelic  language 
Grian-chnoc,  from  the  site  of  its  ancient  baronial  castle 
on  a  hill  unsheltered  by  any  intervening  object  from 
the  rays  of  the  sun.  It  originally  consisted  partly  of 
the  lands  of  Easter  Greenock,  in  which  is  the  suburb  of 
Cartsdyke,  or,  as  it  is  also  called,  Crawfurdsdyke,  so 
named  from  the  erection  of  a  small  quay  by  its  proprie- 
tor, Thomas  Crawfurd,  Esq. ;  and  partly  of  the  small 
village  of  Greenock,  belonging  to  Sir  John  Shaw,  owner 
of  the  barony  of  Wester  Greenock,  and  who,  in  1669, 
purchased  from  Margaret  Crawfurd,  lady  of  Kilberny, 
the  barony  of  Easter  Greenock,  with  the  exception  of 
the  lands  of  Crawfurdsdyke,  which  are  now  the  pro- 
perty of  William  Crawfurd,  Esq.  On  the  decease  of  Sir 
J.  Shaw,  the  last  of  that  name,  in  1752,  John  Shaw  Stew- 
art, Esq.,  afterwards  Sir  John  Shaw  Stewart,  succeeded 
to  the  lands  of  Easter  and  Wester  Greenock,  in  right  of 
his  mother;  and  on  his  death  in  1S12,  they  passed  to 
his  nephew,  Sir  Michael  Shaw  Stewart,  from  whom  they 
descended  to  Sir  Michael  Robert  Shaw  Stewart,  the 
present  proprietor. 

The  villages  both  of  Wester  Greenock  and  Crawfurds- 
dyke at  first  consisted  only  of  a  few  thatched  huts, 
stretching  along  the  bay,  and  inhabited  by  fishermen  ; 
but  they  gradually  increased,  and  in  16/0,  Sir  John,  son 
of  the  former  Sir  John  Shaw,  obtained  from  Charles  II. 
a  charter  annexing  the  lands  of  Finnart,  of  which  he 
had  become  proprietor,  to  the  barony  of  Wester  Gree- 
nock, and  erecting  both  into  one  barony,  under  the 
designation  of  the  barony  of  Greenock.  The  inhabitants 
appear  to  have  pursued  the  fishery  with  success  ;  they 
had  some  shipping,  and  carried  on  a  considerable  coast- 
ing, and  a  small  foreign,  trade,  chiefly  in  herrings,  of 
which,  in  1674,  they  sent  20,000  barrels  to  Rochelle, 
exclusively  of  other  quantities  to  Sweden  and  the  Baltic. 
The  two  places  had  each  a  harbour  capable  of  receiving 
vessels  of  large  burthen  ;  and  from  that  of  Crawfurds- 
dyke, a  part  of  the  expedition  to  Darien  was  fitted  out, 
in  1697-  The  union  of  the  two  kingdoms  opened  to 
the  inhabitants  new  channels  of  commerce ;  and  in 
1719,  they  fitted  out  the  first  vessel  employed  in  the 
American  trade,  which  they  afterwards  prosecuted  with 
singular  success,  bringing  home  great  quantities  of 
tobacco,  which  they  exported  for  the  supply  of  the  con- 
tinent. The  rapidly-increasing  importance  of  Greenock 
was,  in  fact,  such  that  it  excited  the  jealousy  of  the 
ports  of  London,  Bristol,  and  Liverpool ;  but  the  break- 
522 


ing  out  of  the  American  war  greatly  obstructed  its  chief 
source  of  prosperity,  and  the  loss  of  the  American  trade 
for  some  time  impeded  the  commercial  interests  of  the 
port.  It  was,  however,  soon  counterbalanced  by  an 
enlarged  traffic  with  South  America  and  the  East  and 
West  India  colonies  ;  the  trade  of  the  port  revived ; 
and  it  has  continued  to  increase  till  the  present  time, 
the  place  now  ranking  as  one  of  the  principal  sea-ports 
of  the  country.  The  town,  extending  in  every  direction 
for  the  accommodation  of  its  growing  population,  has 
become  the  residence  of  numerous  merchants  and  ship- 
owners; the  seat  of  various  thriving  manufactures,  which 
put  it  nearly  on  a  par  with  the  most  flourishing  com- 
mercial and  manufacturing  towns  in  the  kingdom  ;  and 
more  recently,  a  parliamentary  borough. 

The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  south  shore 
of  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  which  is  here  four  and  a  half 
miles  broad ;  and  extends  for  almost  a  mile  along  the 
margin  of  the  united  bays  of  Greenock  and  Crawfurds- 
dyke. The  buildings  occupy  a  narrow  site  of  level 
land,  bounded  on  the  south  by  a  ridge  of  hills  which 
rises  abruptly  to  an  elevation  of  nearly  600  feet  imme- 
diately above  the  town,  commanding  a  richly-diversified 
view  of  the  Frith  and  the  coast  of  Dumbarton,  on  the 
north,  and  much  variety  of  interesting  scenery  on  the 
east  and  west.  The  place  is  for  the  most  part  very 
irregularly  built,  consisting,  in  the  older  portion,  of  vari- 
ous narrow  and  ill-formed  streets,  and  in  that  of  more 
modern  date,  of  several  spacious  and  handsome  streets, 
with  numerous  pleasant  villas,  especially  towards  the 
west,  iu  which  direction  chiefly  the  houses  are  increas- 
ing. It  is  paved,  lighted  with  gas,  and  amply  supplied 
with  water  from  the  vicinity,  passed  through  filters 
previously  to  its  being  distributed  through  the  town, 
the  necessary  works  having  been  constructed  by  a  com- 
pany incorporated  by  act  of  parliament,  in  1825,  chiefly 
for  providing  water-power  for  giving  motion  to  the 
machinery  of  mills  and  factories.  For  this  latter  pur- 
pose, an  enterprize  of  vast  magnitude  has  been  com- 
pleted under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Thorn,  civil  engineer, 
and  proprietor  of  the  Rothesay  cotton-works,  at  the 
suggestion  of  Sir  Michael  Shaw  Stewart,  from  whom  the 
undertaking  is  called  the  Shaw's-water  works.  These 
works,  which  are  mostly  situated  at  a  distance  of  about 
three  miles,  on  the  south-west  side  of  the  ridge  of  hills 
that  overlooks  the  town,  consist  partly  of  a  spacious 
reservoir  formed  by  strong  embankments,  inclosing  an 
area  of  295  acres,  and  containing  284,678,550  cubic  feet 
of  water,  conveyed  by  an  aqueduct  six  miles  in  length 
from  numerous  streams ;  and  there  is  also  a  compen- 
sation reservoir  of  forty  acres,  containing  14,465, 89S 
cubic  feet.  From  the  principal  reservoir,  which  has  an 
elevation  of  500  feet  above  the  town,  the  water  descends 
by  a  gradual  declivity,  and  in  its  course  towards  Gree- 
nock forms,  at.  convenient  intervals,  many  falls  of  greater 
or  less  height,  from  which  it  is  diverted  to  the  several 
factories  that  have  been  erected  near  it,  supplying  to 
each  1200  cubic  feet  per  minute  for  twelve  hours 
daily.  The  aggregate  power  of  these  different  falls, 
which  vary  in  depth,  according  to  the  wants  of  each 
factory,  is  estimated  as  equivalent  to  that  of  1782  horses. 
This  important  undertaking  was  successfully  completed 
in  1829,  at  an  expense  of  £51,000,  including  the  pur- 
chase of  the  ground. 

The  public  library,  established  in  the  year  1783,  and 


GREE 


G  R  E  E 


for  many  years  held  in  the  Freemasons'  Hall,  in  Hamil- 
ton-street, has  been  removed  into  a  building:  in  Union- 
street,  towards  the  erection  of  which  Mr.  James  Watt. 
contributed  £3000,  as  a  suitable  place  for  the  reception 
of  a  marble  statue,  by  Chantrey,  in  honour  of  his  father, 
the  celebrated  improver  of  the  steam-engine,  which 
statue  had  been  voted  at  a  public  meeting  of  the  inha- 
bitants of  Greenock,  the  native  place  of  Watt.  The 
building,  which  is  in  the  early  English  style  of  architec- 
ture, consists  of  a  centre,  containing  the  library,  and 
two  wings,  one  of  which  forms  a  reading-room,  and  the 
other  a  house  for  the  librarian;  the  library  consists  of 
above  10,000  volumes,  and  is  supported  by  annual  sub- 
scriptions of  thirteen  shillings  and  £1.  1.  A  mechanics' 
institution  was  established  in  1S36;  and  a  handsome 
building  has  been  erected  for  its  use  at  an  expense  of 
more  than  £1300,  raised  by  subscription.  The  ground- 
floor  contains  a  library  of  2000  volumes,  a  reading- 
room,  and  an  apartment  for  mechanical  and  philoso- 
phical apparatus  ;  above  which  is  a  hall  sixty-two  feet 
long,  and  thirty-nine  feet  wide,  for  the  delivery  of  lec- 
tures on  chemistry,  mechanics,  and  other  subjects. 
There  is  also  a  mechanics'  library  at  Crawfurdsdyke, 
containing  nearly  1500  volumes  ;  and  three  circulating 
libraries  have  collections  varying  from  500  to  1500 
volumes.  Two  public  newsrooms  are  likewise  sup- 
ported, in  one  of  which,  in  Cathcart-square,  is  a  por- 
trait of  Sir  John  Shaw,  who  is  justty  regarded  as  the 
founder  of  the  commercial  prosperity  of  the  town. 
Assemblies  are  held  in  the  Exchange  buildings,  in  which 
are  elegant  rooms  ;  and  a  theatre,  erected  by  Stephen 
Kemble,  is  opened  occasionally.  The  Tontine  hotel,  in 
the  principal  street,  is  a  spacious  building,  erected  at  an 
expense  of  £10,000,  and  contains  some  handsome  apart- 
ments, and  every  requisite  accommodation  for  families. 
Manufactures  of  almost  every  kind  are  carried  on 
here  to  a  very  considerable  extent ;  and  there  are  nume- 
rous large  establishments  for  refining  sugar,  breweries, 
distilleries,  tanneries,  foundries,  and  forges.  The  manu- 
facture of  woollen  cloth  and  yarn  is  pursued  in  two 
factories,  in  one  of  which  25,000  stones  of  wool  are  an- 
nually consumed  in  the  production  of  tartans,  twilled 
cloths,  and  yarn  ;  and  the  other,  of  recent  establish- 
ment, is  still  more  extensive.  A  very  large  cotton  fac- 
tory has  lately  been  opened,  of  which  the  machinery  is 
propelled  by  the  Shaw's  water  :  the  building,  which  is  of 
stone,  is  263  feet  in  length,  sixty  feet  in  breadth,  and 
three  stories  in  height.  In  those  parts  where  the  pro- 
cess carried  on  is  most  in  danger  of  fire,  the  building  is 
fire-proof;  and  in  case  of  need,  the  pipes  by  which  it  is 
heated  with  steam  can  be  rendered  available  as  a  fire- 
engine.  The  water-wheel  that  drives  the  machinery  is 
seventy  feet  in  diameter,  and  wholly  of  iron,  weighing 
about  ISO  tons.  The  number  of  people  employed  is  gene- 
rally 400,  of  whom  the  greater  number  are  females.  There 
are  eleven  large  establishments  for  the  refining  of  sugar, 
affording  occupation  to  350  persons;  one  of  these  is  wholly 
engaged  in  refining  for  exportation,  and  the  aggregate 
quantity  is  about  14,000  tons  annually.  Three  breweries 
employ  about  forty-five  persons,  and  do  business  to  the 
amount  of  £30,000  per  annum ;  and  there  is  a  distillery 
producing  whisky  annually  to  the  amount  of  £50,000, 
and  paying  duties  to  the  excise  of  £21,000.  Connected 
with  the  distillery  is  a  dairy  of  fifty  cows.  The  manu- 
facture of  sail-cloth  gives  employment  to  nearly  300 
523 


persons,  and  consumes  annually  about  600  tons  of  raw 
material :  attached  to  the  premises,  is  an  extensive 
rope-walk,  in  which  large  quantities  of  cordage  are  an- 
nually made,  averaging  700  tons.  There  are  also  three 
other  rope-walks,  in  the  aggregate,  affording  employ- 
ment to  eighty  persons.  Four  tanneries  employ  to- 
gether about  fifty  hands,  and  do  business  to  the  amount 
of  £1S,000  annually;  and  two  potteries,  in  which  200 
people  are  constantly  engaged,  make  on  the  average 
100,000  dozens  of  white  and  printed  earthenware.  The 
paper  manufacture  provides  occupation  to  about  forty 
persons,  of  whom  a  considerable  number  are  females, 
and  produces  annually  300  tons  of  packing  and  coloured 
papers.  There  are  also  some  extensive  cooperages,  to- 
gether employing  about  500  men  and  boys.  The  straw- 
plat  manufacture  of  Greenock  occupies  generally  about 
seventy  persons  on  the  premises,  and  affords  employ- 
ment to  150  who  work  at  their  own  dwellings  in  the 
town,  and  to  1500  in  the  islands  of  Orkney.  There  are 
three  extensive  iron-foundries  and  forges  for  all  kinds 
of  castings,  and  for  the  manufacture  of  steam-engines 
and  boilers,  and  various  sorts  of  machinery,  together 
affording  employment  to  more  than  1000  persons.  In 
these  establishments,  steam-engines  of  the  aggregate 
power  of  nearly  3000  horses  are  annually  manufactured  ; 
and  numerous  English-built  steamers  have  been  sup- 
plied with  engines  and  machinery  from  the  works.  Two 
manufactories  for  chain-cables  and  anchors,  also,  em- 
ploy above  110  persons;  and  there  is  a  work  for  the 
making  of  bar-iron,  in  which  a  considerable  number  are 
engaged.  Four  large  mills  for  grinding  grain,  yield 
upwards  of  50,000  bolls  annually  :  one  of  them  was 
also  supplied  with  machinery  for  freeing  rice  imported 
into  this  country  from  the  husk,  but  this  was  found  to 
be  attended  without  any  of  the  expected  benefit,  and  has 
been  discontinued. 

The  trade  of  the  port,  which,  after  it  had  recovered 
from  the  depression  it  suffered  during  the  American 
war,  had  greatly  increased,  has  recently  sustained  some 
diminution  from  the  deepening  of  the  Clyde  and  the 
introduction  of  steam  towing-boats,  by  which  ships  that 
previously  landed  their  cargoes  here  are  now  enabled  to 
reach  Glasgow.  The  exports  are  chiefly  linen,  woollen, 
and  silk  manufactures,  cotton-yarn,  hardware,  earthen- 
ware, glass,  refined  sugar,  iron  and  machinery,  copper, 
and  lead.  The  imports  are,  cotton-wool,  sugar,  molasses, 
coffee,  cocoa,  pepper,  tobacco,  corn,  wine,  oil,  spirits, 
timber,  deals,  mahogany,  dye-woods,  brimstone,  and 
numerous  other  goods.  The  quantity  of  cotton-yarn 
exported  in  a  recent  year  was  valued  at  more  than 
£1,000,000;  and  the  quantity  of  cotton-wool  imported 
was  11,597,653  lb.  The  number  of  vessels  that  en- 
tered inwards  during  1S43  was,  206  from  British  ports, 
of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  60,269  tons  ;  and  six  from 
foreign  ports,  of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  2583  tons. 
The  number  that  cleared  outwards  in  1S3S  was,  235 
British  vessels,  of  63,582  tons ;  and  nine  foreign  ves- 
sels, of  3411  tons.  In  the  coasting  trade,  during  the 
same  year,  911  vessels  entered  inwards,  of  the  burthen 
of  99,430  tons  ;  and  1222  cleared  outwards,  of  128,017 
tons'  burthen.  The  amount  of  duty  paid  at  the  custom- 
house in  1S43  was  £347,S69  :  the  number  of  vessels 
registered  as  belonging  to  the  port  is  45 1 ,  of  86,942  tons' 
aggregate  burthen  ;  and  the  number  of  seamen  is  3365. 

The  harbour  was  commenced  in  1707,  by  the  inha- 

3X2 


GREE 


GREE 


bitants,  to  whom  the  lord  of  the  manor,  Sir  John  Shaw, 
conveyed  the  ground  on  which  it  is  formed,  together 
with  his  right,  as  superior  of  the  barony,  to  levy  anchor- 
age dues  ;  and  in  order  to  raise  funds  for  its  completion, 
they  voluntarily  imposed  an  assessment  of  Is.  Ad.  on 
every  sack  of  malt  brewed  into  ale  within  the  burgh. 
The  harbour  thus  formed  being  found,  however,  totally 
inadequate  to  the  rapid  increase  of  the  trade,  an  exten- 
sion including  the  bay  of  Crawfurdsdyke  was  carried 
into  effect,  at  an  expense  of  £20,000  ;  and  the  subse- 
quent erection  of  dry-docks  and  other  works  requisite 
to  render  it  complete,  including  warehouses,  bonding- 
yards  for  timber,  and  other  accommodations,  have  in 
the  whole  amounted  to  £119,000.  The  outer  harbour, 
which  is  accessible  to  the  largest  vessels,  has  sufficient 
depth  of  water,  and  good  anchorage  ;  but  the  roadstead 
is  contracted  by  a  considerable  sand-bank,  which  ex- 
tends from  Port-Glasgow  towards  Dumbarton.  The 
entrance  to  the  inner  harbour  is  105  feet  wide,  and  the 
depth  great  enough  to  allow  vessels  of  any  burthen  to 
approach  the  quays.  The  Custom-house  quay  is  1035 
feet  in  length,  the  East  quay  531,  and  the  West  quay 
425  feet,  forming  together  a  line  of  very  nearly  2000 
feet,  replete  with  evei-y  facility  for  the  loading  and  land- 
ing of  cargoes,  with  spacious  warehouses  and  stores. 
Ship-building  is  carried  on  to  a  great  extent,  for  which 
purpose  there  are  seven  dockyards  belonging  to  different 
companies,  affording  employment  to  1200  men,  with 
dry-docks,  and  three  patent-slips  for  repairing  vessels, 
one  of  which  is  capable  of  receiving  ships  of  400  tons. 
The  number  of  vessels  annually  launched  averages  about 
twenty,  of  the  aggregate  burthen  of  from  6000  to  7000 
tons.  Boat-building  is  also  carried  on,  by  companies 
confined  to  that  object,  who  employ  about  forty  work- 
men, and  launch  annually  about  800  tons  of  all  descrip- 
tions. The  improvement  of  the  harbour  has  greatly 
tended  to  increase  the  trade  of  the  port  as  well  as  its 
revenue,  which  amounted  in  a  recent  year  to  as  large  a 
sum  as  £12,079. 

The  custom-house,  which  is  situated  in  the  central 
portion  of  the  quay,  is  a  spacious  and  elegant  building 
in  the  Grecian  style,  with  a  stately  portico  in  front,  the 
whole  erected  in  ISIS,  at  an  expense  of  £30,000.  The 
chamber  of  commerce  and  manufactures  was  incor- 
porated by  royal  charter  in  1S13,  and  is  under  the 
management  of  twelve  directors,  of  whom  three  annu- 
ally go  out  of  office  by  rotation.  The  Exchange  build- 
ings, erected  in  1814,  at  a  cost  of  £7000,  afford  every 
accommodation  for  the  meeting  of  merchants  and  ship- 
owners, and  for  the  transaction  of  commercial  affairs ; 
they  contain  also  two  spacious  assembly-rooms,  in 
which,  during  the  season,  concerts  and  card  and  dancing 
assemblies  are  held.  The  post-office  has  a  good  delivery  ; 
and  in  addition  to  the  Greenock  and  the  Clydesdale 
Banks,  there  are  branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  the 
Royal  Bank  of  Scotland,  the  Glasgow  Union  Banking 
Company,  and  the  Western  Bank  of  Scotland.  The 
market,  which  is  on  Friday,  is  abundantly  supplied 
with  grain  and  with  provisions  of  all  kinds ;  and  fairs 
are  held  on  the  first  Thursday  in  July  and  the  fourth 
Thursday  in  November.  Facility  of  communication  is 
afforded  by  excellent  roads,  of  which  eight  miles  of  turn- 
pike-road pass  through  the  parish,  and  by  steamers, 
which  have  nearly  superseded  travelling  by  coaches.  The 
Glasgow,  Paisley,  and  Greenock  Railway  was  commenced 
524 


in  1837,  by  a  company  empowered  to  raise  a  joint-stock 
capital  of  £400,000  in  shares,  and  £133,333  by  loan. 
The  length  is  twenty-twff-  miles  and  a  half,  of  which 
seven  miles  form  part  of  the  Glasgow  and  Ayr  railway, 
whence  the  Greenock  line  diverges,  to  the  south  of 
Paisley,  crossing  the  rivers  Black  Cart  and  Gryfe,  and 
reaching  its  summit  level  on  the  Bishopton  ridge. 
Thence  it  is  continued  by  an  embankment,  running 
nearly  parallel  with  the  river  Clyde,  to  Port-Glasgow, 
from  which,  taking  a  curvilinear  direction,  it  terminates 
at  Greenock,  where  is  a  short  branch  leading  to  the 
docks.  There  are  sixty  bridges  on  the  whole  line,  in- 
cluding the  viaducts  at  Greenock  and  Port-Glasgow  ; 
and  four  ascending  and  four  descending  planes,  the 
former  of  nine  miles,  and  the  latter  seven  and  a  half, 
the  remainder  of  the  course  being  level.  The  line  passes 
along  two  tunnels  at  Bishopton  ridge,  cut  through  hard 
rock  for  above  a  mile  in  length,  and  thirty-seven  feet  in 
depth  ;  the  embankment  near  the  Clyde  is  more  than  a 
mile  long,  and  twenty-eight  feet  in  height,  and  there  is 
also  one  crossing  Fulwood  moss,  four  miles  long,  but 
averaging  only  ten  feet  in  height.  The  railway  was 
completed  in  June,  1840,  at  an  expense  of  £498,142, 
including  one-half  the  cost  of  the  portion  between  Glas- 
gow and  Paisley,  of  which  the  other  half  was  defrayed 
by  the  Glasgow  and  Ayr  Railway  Company.  The  pre- 
sent capital  is  £866,666. 

The  town  was  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony  by 
charter  of  Charles  I.,  granted  to  Sir  John  Shaw,  its 
proprietor,  in  1635,  and  confirmed  by  Charles  II.  in  1670. 
In  1741,  the  then  Sir  John  Shaw,  by  a  charter  which 
was  renewed  in  1751,  conferred  upon  his  tenants  in  the 
burgh,  the  privilege  of  electing  two  bailies,  a  treasurer, 
and  six  councillors,  with  power  to  hold  courts  for  the 
admission  of  burgesses,  the  good  government  of  the 
town,  and  the  trial  and  punishment  of  delinquents. 
This  charter  continued  in  force  till  the  passing  of  the 
Municipal  Reform  act  of  the  3rd  and  4th  of  William  IV. 
A  provost,  four  bailies,  treasurer,  and  council  are  now 
elected  agreeably  with  the  provisions  of  that  measure  ; 
and  their  jurisdiction  extends  over  the  whole  of  the  muni- 
cipal and  parliamentary  boundaries  of  the  burgh.  The 
magistrates  hold  courts  daily  for  the  trial  of  criminal 
causes  not  extending  beyond  petty  thefts  and  misde- 
meanours, all  higher  matters  being  referred  to  the  sheriff 
of  the  county,  who  holds  a  court  here  for  those  cases  to 
which  the  jurisdiction  of  the  magistrates  does  not  ex- 
tend. The  burgh,  under  the  provisions  of  the  general 
Reform  act  of  the  2nd  and  3rd  of  William  IV.,  returns 
one  member  to  the  imperial  parliament  :  the  right  of 
election  is  vested  in  the  £10  householders,  of  whom 
the  number  is  9S5.  The  town-hall  was  erected  in  1765, 
after  a  design  by  the  father  of  the  distinguished  Watt ; 
it  is  a  neat  structure  containing  the  several  court-rooms, 
and  other  apartments  for  the  transaction  of  the  public 
business  of  the  magistrates.  The  town  gaol  and  bride- 
well, a  handsome  building  in  the  castellated  style,  con- 
tains thirty-five  cells  for  criminals.  The  sheriff's  court- 
house, erected  in  1834,  by  subscription,  consists  of  a 
spacious  hall  for  the  courts,  with  the  necessary  apart- 
ments for  the  sheriff  and  his  clerk,  and  rooms  for  jury- 
men and  witnesses,  appropriately  fitted  up. 

The  parish  originally  formed  part  of  that  of  Inner- 
kip,  from  which  it  was  separated  by  act  of  parliament, 
in  1592;  and  it  has  since  been  subdivided  into  smaller 


GHEE 


GREE 


parishes,  including  the  lands  of  Easter  Greenock  and 
Crawfurdsburn,  and  a  considerable  portion  of  the 
parish  of  Houston,  which  were  annexed  to  it  by  the 
Court  of  Teinds  in  1650.  It  extends  along  the  Clyde 
for  nearly  five  miles,  and  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the 
parish  of  Houston  ;  on  the  south-east,  by  the  parishes 
of  Port-Glasgow  and  Kilmalcolm  ;  and  on  the  west,  by 
Innerkip.  The  surface  is  hilly,  rising  towards  the  south, 
by  elevated  ridges,  to  a  height  of  600  feet.  The  coast 
is  flat  and  sandy,  and  is  not  distinguished  by  any  pecu- 
liarity of  features,  the  hill  of  Binnans,  the  highest  in  the 
ridge,  forming  the  only  landmark  of  importance,  and 
from  which  is  obtained  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Frith. 
The  soil  on  the  shore  is  chiefly  clay,  intermixed  with 
sea-shells  and  gravel;  and  in  the  higher  grounds,  a  rich 
loam,  alternated  with  peat-moss.  The  estimated  num- 
ber of  acres  is  8000,  of  which  nearly  3000  are  arable, 
1150  meadow  and  pasture,  about  fifty  woodland  and 
plantations,  and  the  remainder  moor :  there  are  some 
quarries  of  sandstone,  but  of  very  inferior  quality.  The 
scenery  is  beautifully  diversified,  and  on  the  acclivities 
of  the  hills  are  numerous  scattered  villas,  overlooking 
the  Clyde.  The  mansion-house  of  Greenock  is  finely 
situated  on  an  eminence  above  the  town  ;  the  greater 
portion  of  it  is  ancient,  but  several  additions  have  been 
made  of  more  modern  character.  There  is  some  fine 
old  timber  on  the  demesne,  and  also  on  that  of  Craw- 
furdsburn House,  which  is  likewise  an  ancient  building. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  real  property  in  Greenock 
is  £111,493. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Greenock  and  synod  of  Glas- 
gow and  Ayr.  The  original  parish,  which,  since  the 
New  or  Middle  parish  was  disjoined  from  it  in  1741, 
has  been  designated  the  parish  of  West  Kirk,  is  about 
three  miles  and  a  half  in  length  and  two  and  three- 
quarters  in  breadth.  The  minister's  income  is  £718, 
arising  from  a  stipend  of  £287,  an  annuity  from  the 
corporation  of  £25,  and  the  rents  of  the  glebe,  amount- 
ing to  £406,  with  a  manse ;  patron,  Sir  Michael  Robert 
Shaw  Stewart.  The  old  church,  a  cruciform  structure 
built  in  1590,  being  inconveniently  situated,  and  greatly 
dilapidated,  has  been  superseded  by  a  new  church  built 
on  a  more  commodious  site ;  the  present  structure, 
which  is  of  elegant  design,  contains  1400  sittings.  There 
are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church, 
as  well  as  for  the  United  Secession,  Baptists,  the  Relief, 
Independents,  Reformed  Presbyterians,  and  Wesleyans  ; 
and  an  episcopal,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel.  The 
Middle  Kirk  parish,  created  by  the  Court  of  Teinds,  is 
about  one-third  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  in  breadth,  and  wholly  within  the  town.  The  minis- 
ter's stipend  is  £200,  with  £20  for  communion  ele- 
ments, and  a  manse  ;  patrons,  the  Magistrates  and  Town 
Council,  the  Kirk  Session,  and  the  Feuarsin  the  parish. 
The  church,  erected  in  1*47,  at  an  expense  of  £2388, 
by  subscription,  aided  by  a  grant  from  the  corporation, 
is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  Grecian  style,  with  a 
portico  of  the  Ionic  order,  and  an  elegant  spire  145 
feet  in  height,  and  contains  1497  sittings.  A  chapel, 
also,  has  been  recently  erected  by  the  Society  for  Pro- 
pagating Christian  Knowledge,  for  the  use  of  the  mariners 
frequenting  the  port ;  it  contains  350  sittings,  and  divine 
service  is  regularly  performed  on  Sunday  by  a  missionary, 
who  has  a  salary  of  £26  per  annum.     The  parish  of  East 


Kirk  was  divided  from  the  original  parish,  also  by  the 
Court  of  Teinds,  in  1809  ;  it  is  about  three  miles  and  a 
half  in  length  and  two  and  a  half  in  breadth.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £200,  with  £20  for  communion 
elements,  and  a  manse ;  patrons,  the  Magistrates  and 
Council,  and  a  committee  named  by  the  Seat-proprietors. 
The  church,  erected  in  1774  as  a  chapel  of  ease,  con- 
tains 976  sittings.  The  late  quoad  sacra  parish  of  North 
Kirk  was  separated  from  the  parish  of  West  Kirk  by 
the  General  Assembly,  in  1834,  and  was  about  half  a 
mile  in  length,  and  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
breadth ;  patrons,  the  Congregation.  The  church,  at 
first  a  chapel  of  case,  was  built  in  1823,  at  an  expense  of 
£600,  and  contains  1165  sittings.  South  Kirk  quoad 
sacra  parish  comprised  a  small  district  within  the  town  ; 
patrons,  the  Proprietors  of  the  church,  which  was  built 
as  a  Gaelic  chapel  of  ease,  in  1791,  at  a  cost  of  £1300, 
raised  in  shares,  and  is  a  neat  structure  •with  1300 
sittings.  The  late  quoad  sacra  parish  of  St.  Andrew 
was  also  separated  from  the  old  parish ;  patrons,  the 
Trustees.  The  church  was  built  by  subscription,  aided 
by  grant  from  the  Church-extension  fund,  at  a  cost  of 
£2600 ;  it  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  later  English 
style  of  architecture,  and  contains  945  sittings.  The 
late  parish  o(  St.  Thomas  was  separated  in  1S39,  from 
the  old  parish  and  the  Middle  parish  :  the  church  was 
built  by  private  subscription,  aided  by  a  grant  from  the 
extension  fund.  Cartsdyke  (which  see)  was  separated 
from  the  East  parish,  in  the  year  1S39,  but  has.  like 
the  four  preceding  districts,  ceased  to  be  a  quoad  sacra 
parish. 

The  old  parochial  school  has  been  superseded  by  the 
establishment  of  two  burgh  schools,  in  one  of  which  the 
Latin,  Greek,  and  French  languages  are  taught ;  and  in 
the  other,  arithmetic,  the  mathematics,  geography,  and 
drawing.  They  are  under  the  management  of  two  mas- 
ters, appointed  by  the  corporation,  and  who  have  each 
a  salary  of  £30,  with  the  fees  and  an  allowance  of  £25 
in  lieu  of  house  and  schoolroom.  The  Highlanders 
academy  was  built  in  1837,  partly  by  subscription,  and 
partly  by  grant  from  government,  on  a  site  given  by 
the  late  Sir  Michael  Shaw  Stewart ;  it  is  a  handsome 
building,  containing  two  schools,  and  apartments  for  the 
masters  of  an  infant  and  juvenile  school,  with  a  large 
inclosed  play-ground.  There  are  also  two  schools  for 
orphans,  built  by  the  corporation,  one  for  the  gratuitous 
instruction  of  children  in  the  elementary  branches  of 
education,  and  the  other  for  teaching  girls  to  sew  and 
knit,  and  qualifying  them  for  service ;  they  are  both 
supported  by  subscription,  and  partly  by  the  proceeds 
of  the  children's  work.  The  Greenock  hospital  and 
infirmary  was  established  in  1809,  when  a  building  was 
erected  at  an  expense  of  £1815,  on  a  site  of  land  given 
by  Sir  John  Shaw  Stewart ;  it  is  maintained  by  sub- 
scription. The  number  of  patients  averages  about  585 
annually  received  into  the  house,  and  200  out-patients. 
Two  wings  have  been  added  to  the  building,  which  is 
now  adapted  for  the  reception  of  100  patients.  The 
institution  is  under  the  superintendence  of  four  phy- 
sicians, two  surgeons,  and  a  resident  apothecary ;  the 
annual  expenditure  is  about  £1000.  There  are  nume- 
rous friendly  and  benefit  societies  ;  and  a  savings'  bank 
has  been  for  some  time  established,  in  which  are  de- 
posits to  the  amount  of  £63,000.  Gait,  the  novelist, 
resided  at  Greenock,  where  he  died  in  1839.     The  town 


G  U  T  H 


GUTH 


gives  the  inferior  title  of  Baron  to  the  family  of  Cath- 
cart,  a  dignity  created  in  1807,  in  the  person  of  the 
late  Earl  Cathcart,  upon  his  return  from  Copenhagen, 
where  he  had  served  as  commander-in-chief  of  the  mili- 
tary force  employed  in  the  expedition  to  that  place. 

GRETNA,  Dumfries. — See  Graitney. 

GRIMSAY,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  North  Uist, 
county  of  Inverness  ;  containing  269  inhabitants.  This 
is  an  isle  of  the  Hebrides,  lying  between  North  Uist  and 
Benbecula,  and  is  about  two  miles  in  length  :  a  large 
portion  of  it  is  covered  with  heath.  A  great  quantity  of 
kelp  is  burned  on  its  shores,  the  manufacture  of  which 
is  the  chief  employment  of  the  population.  Grimsay  is 
an  island  only  at  high  water. 

GROAY,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Harris,  county  of 
Inverness.  It  is  one  of  a  group  of  islets  in  the  Sound 
of  Harris,  and  is  of  very  small  extent,  and  uninhabited. 

GRUINARD,  or  Greinord,  an  isle,  in  the  parish 
of  Lochbroom,  county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty.  It  is 
situated  at  the  entrance  to  a  loch  of  the  same  name,  on 
the  western  coast  of  the  county,  about  five  miles  south- 
east of  Udrigill  Head. 

GUILDIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Monikie,  county 
of  Forfar,  3|  miles  (W.  N.  W.)  from  Muirdrum ;  con- 
taining S3  inhabitants.  It  is  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
parish,  and  adjoining  the  village  of  Monikie  :  the  popu- 
lation is  chiefly  employed  in  the  weaving  of  linen  for 
the  manufacturers  of  the  neighbouring  towns. 

GUILDIEMUIR,  a  village,  in  the  above  parish  and 
county ;  containing  75  inhabitants.  This  village  and 
Guildie  adjoin  each  other. 

GUILDTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  St.  Mar- 
tin, county  of  Perth  ;  containing  178  inhabitants.  It 
lies  in  the  western  part  of  the  parish,  and  is  of  modern 
date,  having  been  founded  within  the  present  century. 
The  houses  are  in  general  neat  and  comfortable,  with  a 
piece  of  garden-ground  attached  to  each.  This  village, 
and  Caroline-Place,  also  in  the  parish,  are  the  property 
of  the  Guildry  Incorporation  of  Perth. 

GULANE,  anciently  Golyn,  a  village,  in  the  parish 
of  Dirleton,  county  of  Haddington,  5f  miles  (W.  by 
S.)  from  North  Berwick,  containing  273  inhabitants. 
This  village,  which  formerly  gave  name  to  the  parish,  is 
pleasantly  situated  ;  and  the  ground  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  is  favourable  to  the  training  of  race- horses,  of 
which  two  separate  establishments  have  been  erected. 
There  is  a  school  attended  by  fifty  children,  of  which 
the  master  is  provided  with  a  house  and  garden,  rent- 
free,  by  Mrs.  Ferguson,  who  also  allows  him  a  salary  of 
£5  per  annum,  in  addition  to  the  fees. 

GUNISTER,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Northmavine, 
county  of  Shetland.  It  is  one  of  the  smallest  of  the 
Shetland  group,  and  lies  about  a  mile  southward  of  the 
main  land  of  the  parish  :  there  is  pasturage  for  cattle 
and  sheep. 

GUNNA,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Tiree,  district  of 
Mull,  county  of  Argyll.  This  is  a  small  isle  of  the 
Hebrides,  lying  in  the  sound  between  Tiree  and  Coll, 
and  is  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  half  a  mile  in  breadth. 
It  is  remarkable  for  the  great  quantity  of  sea-weed  upon 
its  shores. 

GUTHRIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfar, 
Smiles  (N.  W.)  from  Arbroath;  containing  530  inha- 
bitants. This  place  confers  its  name  upon  the  very 
ancient  and  distinguished  family  of  the  Guthries,  one  of 
526 


whom,  on  the  resignation  of  the  guardianship  of  Scot- 
land by  Sir  William  Wallace,  in  1299,  and  his  retire- 
ment into  France,  was  sent  by  the  Scottish  nobles  to 
solicit  the  return  of  that  hero,  in  order  to  assist  his 
countrymen  to  expel  the  English  invaders.  His  descend- 
ant, Sir  David  Guthrie,  who  was  lord  high  treasurer  of 
Scotland  in  the  reign  of  James  III.,  purchased  from  the 
monks  of  Arbroath,  the  church  of  Guthrie,  which  had 
for  many  years  been  attached  to  that  abbey,  and  founded 
here  a  collegiate  church  for  a  provost  and  three  pre- 
bendaries. This  foundation  was  confirmed  by  a  bull 
of  Pope  Sextus  IV.,  in  1479  ;  and  to  it  was  subsequently 
annexed  the  vicarage  of  Kirkbuddo,  or  Carbuddo,  now 
forming  a  widely-detached  portion  of  the  parish  of 
Guthrie.  Sir  David  Guthrie  also  erected  a  spacious  and 
strongly-fortified  baronial  castle  here,  which  is  still 
entire ;  and  on  his  decease,  the  manor  passed  to  his 
son,  Sir  Alexander,  who,  with  one  of  his  sons  and  three 
of  his  brothers-in-law,  fell  in  the  battle  of  Flodden  Field. 
It  is  now  the  property  of  his  descendant,  John  Guthrie, 
Esq.  The  parish,  including  Kirkbuddo,  which  is  situ- 
ated at  a  distance  of  nearly  seven  miles  to  the  south- 
west, and  separated  by  several  intervening  parishes, 
comprises  an  area  of  about  4000  acres,  of  which  3200 
are  arable,  and  the  remainder  woodland  and  plantations, 
with  a  very  considerable  tract  of  unreclaimed  moor. 
The  surface  of  the  main  portion  is  varied,  sloping  gra- 
dually from  the  hill  of  Guthrie,  which  is  in  the  north- 
west, and  has  an  elevation  of  about  500  feet,  towards 
the  south  and  east ;  while  in  the  southern,  or  Kirk- 
buddo, portion,  the  laud  is  nearly  level,  though  consi- 
derably raised  above  the  sea.  The  parish  is  watered  by 
the  small  river  Lunan,  which  flows  through  a  narrow 
valley,  and  forms  its  boundary.  The  soil  in  some  parts 
is  a  rich  black  loam,  resting  on  a  bed  of  retentive  clay, 
and  in  others  of  inferior  quality,  but  generally  suscepti- 
ble of  improvement  by  draining,  which  is  gradually 
growing  into  general  practice.  The  system  of  agricul- 
ture is  advanced,  and  some  portions  of  the  moor  have 
been  reclaimed  ;  the  farm-buildings  are  usually  commo- 
dious, and  considerable  progress  has  been  made  in  the 
inclosure  of  the  lands.  The  woodlands  around  Guthrie 
Castle  and  Kirkbuddo  House  are  under  good  manage- 
ment ;  and  in  different  parts  of  the  parish  are  some 
thriving  plantations,  which  add  much  to  the  beauty  of 
the  scenery.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£2727. 

The  castle,  the  seat  of  Mr.  Guthrie,  was  originally 
built  in  1468.  The  more  ancient  part  consists  of  a 
massive  square  tower,  crowned  with  embattled  tur- 
rets, rising  above  the  foliage  of  the  richly-wooded 
demesne  by  which  it  is  surrounded,  and  conveying  an 
impressive  idea  of  baronial  grandeur  ;  the  more  modern 
portions  have  been  added  at  various  times,  and  the 
whole  has  been  recently  improved  by  the  present  pro- 
prietor. It  is  beatifully  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  Lunan,  which  has  its  source  in  a  lake  in  the  vici- 
nity. Kirkbuddo  House,  the  seat  of  George  Ogilvy, 
Esq.,  is  a  handsome  modern  mansion  surrounded  with 
plantations.  There  is  no  village  properly  so  called  ;  the 
population  are  principally  agricultural,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  who  are  employed  in  weaving  for  the 
manufacturers  in  the  neighbourhood.  In  Kirktown,  a 
hamlet  consisting  only  of  a  small  number  of  scattered 
houses,  are  some  individuals    engaged   in  the  various 


H  A  DD 


H  ADD 


handicraft  trades  requisite  for  the  supply  of  the  inhabit- 
ants of  the  parish.  Facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  the  Arbroath  and  Forfar  turnpike-road,  and  the 
Arbroath  and  Forfar  railway,  which  pass  near  the 
church.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  presbytery  of  Arbroath  and  synod  of 
Angus  and  Mearns.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £15S,  of 
which  nearly  one-half  is  paid  from  the  exchequer,  with 
a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £9  per  annum  ;  patron, 
John  Guthrie,  Esq.  The  church,  which  is  situated  on 
an  acclivity  rising  from  the  valley  of  the  Lunan,  is  a 
substantial  neat  building  erected  in  1826,  and  contains 
306  sittings.  Diviue  service  is  occasionally  also  per- 
formed by  the  minister  in  a  schoolroom  at  Kirkbuddo. 
The  parochial  schoolmaster  is  superannuated,  and  the 
school  taught  by  an  assistant ;  the  salary  is  £27,  with 
the  fees,  a  house,  and  a  garden.  A  school  at  Kirk- 
buddo is  supported  by  subscription  j  and  there  is  a  paro- 
chial library,  consisting  chiefly  of  works  on  religious 
subjects.  Of  the  collegiate  church  founded  by  Sir  David 
Guthrie  the  only  remains  are  a  small  aisle,  now  the  burial- 
place  of  the  family ;  and  of  the  chapel  of  Kirkbuddo 
scarcely  any  vestiges  can  be  traced.  In  the  southern 
portion  of  the  parish  are  some  remains  of  a  Roman 
camp,  still  in  a  very  entire  state,  inclosing  an  area  of 
about  760  yards  in  length  and  360  yards  wide  :  in  the 
south-east  angle,  supposed  to  have  been  the  site  of  the 
praetorium,  is  an  eminence  commanding  a  view  of  the 
whole  of  the  interior.  John  Guthrie,  of  this  place,  was 
consecrated  Bishop  of  Moray,  over  which  see  he  con- 
tinued to  preside  till  1638. 


H 


HADDINGTON,  a  burgh, 
market-town,  and  parish,  in 
the  county  of  Haddington, 
of  which  it  is  the  capital,  1 6 
miles  (E.)  from  Edinburgh, 
and  373  (N.)  from  London  ; 
containing  5452  inhabitants, 
of  whom  I87S  are  in  the 
town.  This  place,  of  which 
the  name  is  of  very  uncer- 
tain derivation,  is  of  unques- 
tionable antiquity,  though, 
from  the  repeated  destruc- 
tion of  its  ancient  records,  comparatively  little  of  its 
remote  history  has  been  preserved.  It  appears  to  have 
been  a  royal  residence  at  an  early  period,  and  in  various 
documents  is  mentioned  as  having  been  a  demesne  town 
of  the  kings  in  the  beginning  of  the  twelfth  century. 
Ada,  Countess  of  Northumberland,  and  mother  of  Mal- 
colm IV.,  in  117S  founded  here  a  convent  for  sisters  of 
the  Cistercian  order,  which  she  richly  endowed,  and 
dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary ;  and  Alexander  II.,  King 
of  Scotland,  was  born  at  this  place  in  1198.  The  town, 
which  was  wholly  built  of  wood,  was,  in  1224,  totally 
consumed  by  fire,  supposed  to  have  been  the  work  of  an 
incendiary,  as,  in  the  same  night,  the  several  towns  of 
Stirling,  Roxburgh,  Lanark,  Perth,  Forfar,  Montrose, 
and  Aberdeen,  experienced  a  similar  calamity.  It 
was  repeatedly  burnt  and  laid  waste  by  the  English, 
527 


Burgh  Seal. 


during  the  frequent  wars  between  the  two  countries, 
but  always  speedily  recovered  from  its  desolation.  The 
abbey  of  St.  Mary  continued  to  flourish  till  the  Disso- 
lution ;  and  in  1548,  the  Scottish  parliament  assembled 
within  its  walls,  to  deliberate  upon  the  marriage  of  Mary, 
afterwards  Queen  of  Scots,  with  the  Dauphin  of  France, 
and  to  give  their  assent  to  her  education  at  the  French 
court.  In  159S,  the  greater  part  of  the  town  was 
destroyed  by  an  accidental  fire  originating  in  the  care- 
lessness of  a  servant.  It  suffered  considerable  damage, 
also,  from  inundations  of  the  river  Tvne,  in  the  years 
135S,  1421,  and  1775. 

The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Tyne,  which 
separates  it  on  the  east  from  the  suburb  of  N ungate, 
with  which  communication  is  afforded  by  a  good  stone 
bridge  of  four  arches ;  and  over  the  same  river  are 
three  other  bridges  within  the  limits  of  the  parish.  It 
consists  principally  of  two  parallel  streets  of  unequal 
length,  of  which  the  longer,  forming  the  High-street, 
and  being  a  continuation  of  the  road  from  Edinburgh, 
is  spacious  and  well  built,  comprising  handsome  houses, 
and  is  intersected  at  right  angles  by  a  street  of  consi- 
derable extent.  It  is  well  paved,  and  lighted  with  gas 
from  works  erected  in  1835  ;  and  the  inhabitants  are 
amply  supplied  with  water.  The  appearance  of  the  place 
has  been  greatly  improved  by  the  erection  of  several 
elegant  buildings  ;  and  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
town,  a  new  and  commodious  market  has  been  formed. 
The  approaches  from  the  east  and  west  are  pleasant,  and 
ornamented  with  agreeable  villas  having  fine  gardens, 
and  with  extensive  nursery-grounds;  and  the  general 
aspect  of  the  town,  which  is  seated  at  the  foot  of  the 
Garleton  hills,  is  strikingly  picturesque.  A  subscription 
library  has  been  established,  which  contains  more  than 
1000  volumes  ;  a  parochial  library,  also,  is  supported 
with  funds  left  for  that  purpose  by  the  late  Andrew 
Begbie,  Esq.  There  is  a  valuable  library,  bequeathed  to 
the  town  by  the  Rev.  John  Gray,  of  Aberlady,  who  also 
gave  fifty  merks  per  annum  for  the  purchase  of  addi- 
tional volumes  ;  and  in  Haddington  is  also  a  library  for 
the  use  of  the  presbytery.  A  mechanics'  institution 
was  founded  in  1S23,  and  is  supported  by  subscription, 
for  the  delivery  of  lectures  on  chemistry,  the  various 
branches  of  mechanics,  and  other  subjects  ;  attached  to 
it  are  a  good  library,  a  museum,  and  the  requisite  appa- 
ratus. The  Agricultural  and  the  Horticultural  Societies  of 
East  Lothian  hold  their  meetings  in  the  town  ;  and  there 
is  a  branch  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  and  also  of  the 
British  Linen  Company.  A  considerable  trade  is  carried 
on  in  wool,  and  in  the  preparation  of  bones  for  manure; 
the  only  manufactories  are  an  iron  forge  and  an  esta- 
blishment for  carriage-building.  The  tanning  and  cur- 
rying trades  are  pursued  to  a  good  extent  ;  and  there 
are  two  breweries  and  two  distilleries,  on  an  extensive 
scale.  The  market  is  on  Friday,  chiefly  for  grain  of 
various  kinds ;  it  is  well  attended,  and  is  one  of  the 
greatest  marts  in  the  country  for  wheat.  The  market- 
place for  butchers'  meat  is  a  neat  and  commodious 
structure,  recently  formed  at  an  expense  of  more  than 
£2000,  defrayc  d  from  the  public  funds  of  the  town. 

Though  Haddington  has  been  a  royal  burgh  from  a 
very  remote  period,  the  earliest  charter  extant  was 
granted  by  James  VI.,  and  is  dated  at  Newmarket,  the 
30th  of  January,  1624.  It  confirmed  all  rights  and  pri- 
vileges conferred  by  the  charters  which,  in  the  repeated 


H  ADD 


H  ADD 


conflagrations  of  the  town,  had  been  destroyed,  and 
vested  the  government  in  a  provost,  bailies,  and  council 
of  merchants  and  tradesmen,  by  whom  the  other  officers 
were  chosen.  The  corporation  at  present  consists  of 
a  provost,  three  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and 
nineteen  councillors,  appointed  under  the  authority,  and 
subject  to  the  provisions,  of  the  Municipal  act  of  Wil- 
liam IV. ;  a  baron-bailie  is  appointed  for  the  suburb  of 
Nungate,  and  also  for  the  lands  in  Gladsmuir  belonging 
to  the  corporation.  The  provost  and  bailies  are  ex 
officio  justices  of  the  peace  within  the  burgh  and  liber- 
ties, and  they  have  also,  by  their  charter,  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  sheriffs  within  the  royalty ;  but  they  do  not 
exercise  this  function,  and  the  sheriff  of  East  Lothian 
has  concurrent  jurisdiction  with  the  magistrates  of  the 
burgh,  who  are  assisted  by  a  town-clerk  and  other  offi- 
cers. The  magistrates  hold  a  court  weekly  for  the 
adjudication  of  civil  cases,  aided  by  the  advice  of  the 
town-clerk  ;  and  also  for  the  trial  of  petty  misdemea- 
nours, and  for  the  maintenance  of  the  police.  There  are 
nine  incorporations,  which  have  the  exclusive  right  of 
exercising  trade  within  the  burgh,  viz.,  the  hammermen, 
wrights  and  masons,  weavers,  fleshers,  shoemakers, 
bakers,  tailors,  and  skinners  ;  each  of  these  fraternities 
sends  two  members  to  a  council  consisting  of  a  con- 
vener, nine  deacon-conveners,  and  the  members  of  the 
incorporations,  for  the  regulation  of  the  various  trades. 
The  burgh  joins  with  those  of  Jedburgh,  Dunbar,  Lau- 
der, and  North  Berwick,  in  the  return  of  a  member  to 
serve  in  parliament ;  the  right  of  election  is  vested  in 
the  resident  freemen  and  £10  householders.  Hadding- 
ton being  the  county  town,  the  courts  for  the  shire  ai-e 
held  in  it  at  the  appointed  periods  ;  and  recently,  some 
elegant  county  buildings  have  been  erected  at  the  west 
end  of  the  town,  in  the  old  English  style,  at  a  cost  of 
£5500,  from  a  design  by  Mr.  Burn.  The  foundation 
stone  was  laid,  with  masonic  honours,  in  May,  1833,  by 
Sir  John  Gordon  Sinclair,  Bart.  The  edifice  contains 
the  sheriff  and  justice-of-peace  court-rooms,  and  other 
offices  connected  with  the  county;  the  front  is  of 
polished  stone,  and  other  parts  of  the  building  are  of 
also  a  superior  material.  It  occupies  the  site  of  some 
old  ruins  that  consisted  of  a  vault  and  part  of  an  arched 
passage,  the  pillars  of  the  Saxon  order ;  but  all  traces 
of  the  history  of  these  remains,  thought  to  have  been 
the  most  ancient  in  Haddington,  are  now  lost.  The 
town-house,  for  the  transaction  of  the  business  of  the 
burgh,  has  been  improved  at  an  expense  of  £2000,  paid 
out  of  the  corporation  funds ;  it  is  a  neat  building, 
including  an  assembly-room,  with  a  handsome  spire. 
The  prison  contains  the  requisite  apartments  for  the 
classification  of  prisoners. 

The  parish  is  about  six  miles  and  a  half  in  length 
and  six  in  breadth,  and  comprises  11,169  acres,  of  which 
9312  are  arable,  1250  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the 
remainder  meadow,  pasture,  and  waste.  The  surface 
is  pleasingly  undulated,  and  the  scenery  enriched  with 
woods  of  ancient  growth  and  with  flourishing  planta- 
tions ;  the  soil  is  generally  fertile,  and  well  adapted  for 
all  kinds  of  grain.  The  rotation  system  of  husbandry 
is  practised  ;  considerable  improvement  has  been  made 
in  draining  and  inclosing  the  lands,  and  the  recent 
introduction  of  bone-dust  aud  rape  for  manure  has  much 
contributed  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil :  the  crops  are, 
wheat,  barley,  oats,  beans,  peas,  potatoes,  and  turnips. 
52S 


The  farm-buildings  are  substantial  and  commodious  ; 
and  every  improvement  in  agricultural  implements  has 
been  carefully  adopted.  The  woods  consist  chiefly  of 
oak,  hazel,  and  birch  ;  and  the  plantations  of  Scotch  fir, 
larch,  and  spruce.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £33,648.  Amisfield,  a  seat  of  the  Earl  of 
Wemyss,  is  a  stately  mansion  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
river  Tyne,  surrounded  by  a  well-planted  demesne  and 
extensive  park,  which,  during  the  annual  sports  called 
the  Tyneside  games,  celebrated  there  under  the  patron- 
age of  the  neighbouring  nobility  and  gentry,  are  much 
resorted  to.  Stevenson,  a  seat  of  Sir  John  Gordon  Sin- 
clair, is  beautifully  situated  to  the  east  of  Amisfield, 
also  in  a  richly-planted  demense.  Lennoxlove,  anciently 
Lethington,  a  seat  of  Lord  Blantyre,  is  a  handsome 
mansion,  part  of  which,  of  great  antiquity,  and  built  by 
the  Gifford  family,  consists  of  a  square  tower  of  massive 
strength  :  the  park  is  of  considerable  extent,  aud  con- 
tains some  fine  old  timber ;  it  was  first  inclosed  with 
walls  by  the  Duke  of  Lauderdale,  who  was  born  here. 
Monkrigg  is  an  elegant  modern  mansion,  finely  situated, 
and  encompassed  by  some  highly-enriched  scenery  ;  and 
Coalston,  a  little  to  the  south,  embraces  an  interesting 
view  of  the  grounds  of  Lennoxlove,  and  of  the  surround- 
ing country.  The  other  seats  in  the  parish  are,  Clerk- 
ington,  Letham,  Alderston,  and  Huntington. 

Haddington  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Haddington  and 
synod  of  Lothian  and  Tvveeddale,  and  in  the  patronage 
of  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun.  There  are  two  ministers,  the 
church  being  collegiate  ;  the  stipend  of  the  first  minister 
is  £343,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £24  per 
annum,  and  the  stipend  of  the  second  minister  is  £366, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £25  per  annum. 
The  church,  supposed  to  have  been  built  in  the  14th 
century,  is  a  venerable  and  elegant  cruciform  structure 
in  the  decorated  English  style,  with  a  lofty  square  em- 
battled tower;  the  choir  and  transepts  are  in  a  dilapi- 
dated condition,  but  the  nave  has  been  commodiously 
arranged  for  a  congregation  of  1240  persons.  It  con- 
tains, in  the  aisle  belonging  to  the  Lauderdale  family,  a 
splendid  monument  of  varied  marbles  to  Lord  Chan- 
cellor Maitland  and  his  lady,  with  recumbent  figures  in 
white  marble.  This  fine  church,  which  is  210  feet  in 
length,  was  part  of  a  magnificent  monastery  of  Fran- 
ciscans, where  Lord  Seton,  one  of  its  greatest  bene- 
factors, was  buried  in  1441  ;  the  buildings  were  partly 
destroyed  by  Edward  I.  A  handsome  chapel  of  ease 
was  erected  in  1838,  to  which  a  district  was  till  -lately 
assigned,  containing  a  population  of  1878.  There  are 
also  an  episcopal  chapel,  and  places  of  worship  for 
members  of  the  Free  Church,  the  Old  Light  Seceders, 
members  of  the  United  Secession,  Independents,  and 
Wesleyans.  The  grammar  school  is  endowed  by  the 
corporation,  who  appoint  two  masters,  and  pay  their 
salaries ;  it  is  open  to  all  the  sons  of  freemen.  The 
parochial  school,  affording  a  useful  education,  is  sup- 
ported by  the  heritors ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  £50  fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  The  parish 
poor  have  the  interest  of  £300,  the  aggregate  amount 
of  several  bequests.  The  late  David  Gourlay,  Esq.,  be- 
queathed a  field  of  four  acres,  with  £450  in  money,  and 
£840  in  the  funds,  in  trust  to  the  ministers  of  Had- 
dington, for  the  relief  of  the  industrious  poor  not  on 
the  parish  list.  A  dispensary  for  administering  medi- 
cines to  the  sick  poor  is  supported  by  subscription  ;  and 


H  A  D  D 


HA  D  D 


a  savings'  bank  has  been  established,  in  which  the 
amount  of  deposits  is  above  £1000.  In  the  suburb  of 
Nungate  are  the  remains  of  St.  Martin's  chapel,  for- 
merly belonging  to  the  abbey  of  Haddington.  John 
Knox,  the  reformer,  was  born  in  this  parish,  at  Gifford- 
gait,  adjoining  the  town,  in  1505,  and  received  the 
rudiments  of  his  education  in  the  grammar  school.  The 
distinguished  family  of  Maitland  resided  for  many  years 
at  Lethington,  which  they  obtained  by  purchase.  Sir 
Richard  Maitland,  who  died  in  15S6,  was  lord  privy 
seal,  and  author  of  some  poems  of  merit ;  his  eldest  son, 
William,  filled  the  office  of  secretary  of  state  in  the 
reign  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots  ;  and  his  next  son,  who 
was  created  Lord  Maitland,  of  Thirlstane,  in  1590,  was 
lord  high  chancellor  of  Scotland  till  his  death  in  1595. 
Haddington  confers  the  title  of  Earl  on  the  family  of 
Hamilton. 

HADDINGTONSHIRE,  a  maritime  county,  in  the 
south-east  of  Scotland,  bounded  on  the  north  and  east 
by  the  Frith  of  Forth,  on  the  south  by  the  county  of 
Berwick,  and  on  the  west  by  Edinburghshire.  It.  lies 
between  55°  46'  10"  and  56°  4'  (N.  Lat.)  and  2°  8'  and 
2°  49'  (W.  Long.),  and  is  about  twenty-five  miles  in 
length  and  sixteen  in  extreme  breadth,  comprising  an 
area  of  224  square  miles,  or  144,510  acres;  S752  houses, 
of  which  SO  10  are  inhabited;  and  containing  a  popula- 
tion of  35, SS6,  of  whom  17,279  are  males,  and  1S,607 
females.  This  count)',  which  is  likewise  called  East 
Lothian,  as  being  the  eastern  part  of  the  extensive  dis- 
trict of  Lothian,  including  also  the  shires  of  Linlithgow 
and  Edinburgh,  was  before  the  time  of  the  Romans 
inhabited  by  the  Gadeni,  and  subsequently  formed  a 
portion  of  the  Saxon  kingdom  of  Northumbria  till  the 
year  1020,  when  it  was  ceded  to  Malcolm  II.,  and  an- 
nexed to  Scotland.  From  that  period,  for  nearly  two 
centuries,  it  appears  to  have  remained  in  almost  undis- 
turbed tranquillity,  and  to  have  made  considerable  pro- 
gress in  agriculture ;  but  during  the  wars  to  which  the 
disputed  succession  to  the  Scottish  throne  gave  rise,  it 
suffered  materially,  and  in  1296  became  the  scene  of 
the  battle  of  Dunbar,  in  which  Baliol  was  defeated.  In 
1650,  it  again  suffered  from  the  English,  under  Crom- 
well, on  the  same  field ;  and  in  1745,  the  battle  of 
Prestonpans  occurred,  between  the  forces  of  the  Pre- 
tender and  the  English  under  Sir  John  Cope,  since 
which  time,  however,  it  has  enjoyed  uninterrupted 
peace. 

The  county  is  in  the  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweed- 
dale,  and  comprises  the  presbyteries  of  Dunbar  and 
Haddington,  with  twenty-four  parishes.  In  civil  matters, 
the  district,  for  a  very  long  period,  was  merely  a  con- 
stabulary -subject  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the  sheriff  of 
Edinburgh  ;  but  in  the  reign  of  James  II.  of  England, 
it  was  erected  into  an  independent  county.  It  contains 
the  three  royal  burghs  of  Haddington,  the  county  town, 
Dunbar,  and  North  Berwick  ;  and  the  populous  villages 
of  Prestonpans,  Tranent,  Aberlady,  Belhaven,  Ortniston, 
Dirleton,  Stenton,  Tyninghame,  Cockenzie,  East  Linton, 
Gilford,  and  Salton,  with  numerous  smaller  villages. 
Under  the  act  of  the  2nd  and  3rd  of  William  IV.,  the 
county  returns  one  member  to  the  imperial  parliament. 
The  surface  is  varied  :  towards  the  shores  of  the  Frith 
of  Forth  it  is  nearly  level,  but  it  rises  by  gentle  undula- 
tions towards  the  south,  for  some  distance,  into  ridges 
of  moderate  elevation,  which  extend  from  east  to  west, 
Vol.  I.— 529 


and  increase  in  height  as  they  approach  the  southern 
boundary,  where  they  form  part  of  the  Lammermoor 
hills.  These  hills,  on  the  south-east  subside  for  a  con- 
siderable extent  into  a  level  plain,  and  on  the  west  into 
the  fruitful  valley  of  the  Tyne,  between  which  and  the 
Frith  are  some  hills  of  inferior  height.  The  principal 
heights  on  the  ridges  are  the  Gunlane  and  Garleton 
hills  ;  and  from  the  open  plain  rise  two  conical  hills,  at 
a  distance  of  seven  miles  from  each  other,  of  which  one, 
called  North  Berwick  Law,  has  an  elevation  of  800,  and 
the  other,  called  Traprain  Law,  of  700  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  chief  rivers  are  the  Tyne  and  the 
Peffer.  The  Tyne  rises  in  Edinburghshire,  and,  flowing 
in  an  easterly  direction,  through  the  pleasant  vale  to 
which  it  gives  name,  and  turning  numerous  mills  in  its 
course,  falls  into  the  Frith  at  Tyninghame.  The  Peffer, 
a  much  smaller  stream,  has  its  source  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  county,  and,  passing  through  a  tract  of  level 
ground,  falls  into  the  Frith  in  the  parish  of  Whitekirk, 
on  the  east,  and  into  Aberlady  bay,  on  the  west.  The 
Salton  and  Gifford  waters  are  tributary  to  the  Tyne ; 
while  Beltonford  burn,  which  has  its  source  among  the 
Lammermoor  hills,  in  the  parish  of  Garvald,  after  a 
course  of  seven  or  eight  miles  to  the  north-east,  flows 
into  the  Frith  to  the  west  of  the  harbour  of  Dunbar. 

About  two-thirds  of  the  land  are  arable,  and  the  re- 
mainder meadow  and  pasture,  with  some  extensive 
woodlands  and  plantations.  The  soil,  though  various, 
is  generally  fertile,  and  the  system  of  agriculture  in  the 
highest  state  of  improvement ;  the  crops  are,  wheat, 
oats,  barley,  peas,  beans,  potatoes,  and  turnips.  Wheat 
is  the  staple  crop  ;  the  turnips  are  of  the  choicest 
quality,  and  the  county  has  long  been  distinguished  for 
the  excellence  of  its  agricultural  produce.  The  farms 
vary  from  sixty  to  250  acres,  and  are  under  very  skilful 
management ;  the  lands  are  well  drained  and  inclosed, 
and  abundantly  manured  with  lime  ;  the  buildings  and 
offices,  also,  are  substantial  and  commodious.  On  the 
several  farms  are  threshing-mills,  of  which  many  are 
driven  by  steam.  The  Lammermoor  hills  afford  good 
pasturage  for  sheep,  which  are  mostly  of  the  Cheviot, 
but  partly  of  the  black-faced,  breed  ;  the  cattle  are  partly 
the  short-horned,  but  chiefly  of  the  Highland  breed. 
The  substrata  of  the  Lammermoor  district  are  of  the 
transitional,  and  those  of  the  lowlands  of  the  secondary, 
formation  ;  coal  is  found  in  the  west,  and  limestone  of 
the  finest  quality  is  abundant.  Ironstone-clay,  and  clay 
of  good  quality  for  bricks,  occur  in  various  parts  of  the 
county;  and  sandstone  of  compact  texture  for  building, 
and  trapstone  for  the  roads,  are  quarried  to  a  great 
extent.  About  6000  acres  are  in  woods  and  planta- 
tions, which  are  in  a  very  thriving  state;  and  at  Tyning- 
hame are  some  remarkably  fine  hedges  of  holly,  of  which 
one  is  twenty-five  feet  in  height,  and  thirteen  feet  in 
width.  The  first  manufactory  in  Britain  for  the  weaving 
of  holland  was  established  in  this  county,  and  the  first 
mill  erected  in  Scotland  for  the  preparation  of  pot-barley 
was  at  Salton.  The  county  is  now,  however,  almost 
wholly  agricultural,  the  manufactures  carried  on  being 
few  and  unimportant.  Draining-tiles  are  made ;  and 
there  are  some  paper  and  flax  mills,  some  starch-works, 
distilleries,  and  breweries.  The  making  of  salt  was  once 
carried  on  to  a  great  extent,  at  Prestonpans  ;  but  it  is  now 
very  much  diminished.  The  herring-fishery  off  the  coast 
employs  about  300  boats  during  the  months  of  August 

3  Y 


H  A  L  B 


H  A  L  K 


and  September,  accommodation  being  found  in  the  har- 
bour of  Dunbar.  Facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  good  roads,  constructed  under  various  acts  of  parlia- 
ment, and  kept  in  repair  by  commissioners.  The  rate- 
able annual  value  of  the  county  is  £258,743,  of  which 
£221,714  are  returned  for  lands,  £31,558  for  houses, 
£490S  for  mines,  and  £563  for  quarries.  There  are 
numerous  remains  of  antiquity,  consisting  of  mounds, 
encampments,  and  the  ruins  of  ancient  castles,  abbeys, 
and  other  religious  houses,  all  which  are  noticed  in  the 
articles  on  the  several  parishes  in  which  they  are  situ- 
ated. 

HAGGS,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the  parish 
of  Denny,  county  of  Stirling,  2  miles  (S.  S.  W.)  from 
Denny;  containing  1905  inhabitants,  of  whom  431  are 
in  the  village.  This  place  occupies  the  southern  por- 
tion of  the  parish  of  Denny,  from  which  it  was  sepa- 
rated for  ecclesiastical  purposes  by  act  of  the  General 
Assembly,  in  1840.  The  village,  which  is  situated  on  the 
road  to  Glasgow,  consists  of  several  houses  of  two  stories, 
roofed  with  slate,  some  detached  and  pleasing  cottages, 
and  a  neat  row  of  small  houses  near  the  coal-works,  at 
the  eastern  extremity  of  which  is  a  large  building  appro- 
priated as  a  storehouse.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly 
employed  in  the  collieries  in  this  part  of  Denny,  and 
in  the  various  manufactories  in  the  neighbourhood. 
Facility  for  the  conveyance  of  the  produce  of  the  mines 
is  afforded  by  the  Forth  and  Clyde  canal,  and  by  the 
Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  railway,  on  which  is  a  station 
at  Castle- Carie,  near  the  village.  The  district  is  not  re- 
markable in  an  agricultural  point  of  view ;  the  surface 
is  destitute  of  timber,  and  the  scenery  consequently  of 
dreary  aspect;  the  soil  is  generally  thin  and  cold,  and 
the  system  of  husbandry  in  a  very  imperfect  state. 
The  church,  which  was  opened  in  1840,  was  erected 
chiefly  through  the  instrumentality  and  exertions  of  the 
Rev.  John  Dempster,  minister  of  Denny,  and  the  co- 
operation and  assistance  of  William  Forbes,  Esq.,  of 
Callendar,  M.P.  for  the  county;  it  is  a  handsome  and 
substantial  structure,  containing  700  sittings.  The 
minister,  who  is  chosen  by  the  male  communicants,  de- 
rives his  stipend  from  seat-rents  and  contributions  of 
the  congregation,  no  permanent  endowment  having  been 
established.  A  school  in  the  village  is  supported  by 
the  General  Assembly. 

HAILES- QUARRY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Colinton,  county  of  Edinburgh,  f  of  a  mile  (N.  W. 
by  W.)  from  Colinton;  containing  158  inhabitants.  It 
is  situated  in  the  south-east  part  of  the  parish,  on  the 
road  from  Edinburgh  to  Currie  ;  and  has  its  aoljunct 
from  a  considerable  stone-quarry,  of  which  the  material 
is  of  a  slaty  quality,  and  divides  easily  into  thin  por- 
tions, excellent  for  pavements,  lobbies,  and  steps.  The 
quarry  is  wrought  to  a  great  depth,  and  is  very  produc- 
tive ;  and  in  one  year,  1825,  when  building  in  Edin- 
burgh was  pushed  to  some  extent,  yielded  its  pro- 
prietor, Sir  Thomas  Gibson  Carmichael,  Bart.,  a  rent  of 
£9000.     Hailes  was  anciently  the  name  of  the  parish. 

HALBEATH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  and  district  of 
Dunfermline,  county  of  Fife,  3  miles  (N.  E.)  from 
Dunfermline;  containing  461  inhabitants.  This  village 
is  inhabited  chiefly  by  persons  employed  in  the  exten- 
sive colliery  in  the  neighbourhood,  of  which  the  produce 
is  conveyed  by  a  railway  to  the  port  of  Inverkeithing, 
where  it  is  shipped. 
530 


HALFMORTON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dum- 
fries, 6  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Longtown  ■  containing  737 
inhabitants.  This  place  derives  its  name  from  its 
having  formed  part  of  the  ancient  parish  of  Morton,  of 
which,  on  its  suppression  in  the  early  part  of  the  17th 
century,,  one-half  was  merged  in  the  parish  of  Canobie, 
and  the  other,  named  Halfmorton,  though  still  re- 
maining as  a  parish  quoad  civilia,  was  ecclesiastically 
united  to  the  parish  of  Wauchope.  On  the  subsequent 
erection  of  Wauchope  and  Staplegorton  into  the  present 
parish  of  Langholm,  in  1703,  the  minister  of  that 
parish  officiated  only  every  fourth  Sabbath  at  Half- 
morton, which,  in  1S39,  was  consequently  disjoined 
from  Langholm  by  a  decree  of  the  Court  of  Teinds,  and 
erected  into  an  independent  parish.  Halfmorton  is 
situated  in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  county,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  east  by  the  river  Sark,  which  separates 
it  from  Cumberland  ;  it  comprises  an  area  of  about 
5700  acres,  of  which  125  are  woodland  and  plantations, 
400  moss,  and  the  remainder  chiefly  arable,  with  a  due 
proportion  of  meadow  and  pasture.  The  surface  is 
agreeably  diversified,  and  the  scenery  embellished  with 
thriving  plantations.  The  Sark  is  the  principal  river, 
and  a  small  stream  called  the  Logan  flows  through  the 
parish  ;  in  both  these  are  found  trout,  but  not  in  great 
abundance. 

The  soil  along  the  banks  of  the  river  is  deep  and 
rich,  and  the  arable  grounds  produce  valuable  crops  : 
there  are  considerable  tracts  of  peat-moss.  The  system 
of  agriculture  is  improved,  and  the  lands  have  been 
drained  and  partly  inclosed.  The  pastures  are  stocked 
with  sheep  of  the  Cheviot  breed,  and  with  black-cattle; 
a  considerable  number  of  horses  are  reared,  mostly  for 
agricultural  uses,  and  on  some  of  the  farms  great  num- 
bers of  swine  are  fed.  The  substrata  are  chiefly  red 
sandstone,  clay,  and  gravel ;  and  limestone  is  found  in 
several  places.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £3176.  The  only  approximation  to  a  village  is  the 
small  hamlet  of  Chapelknowe,  in  which  the  church  is 
situated  :  a  few  persons  are  employed  in  hand-loom 
weaving  for  the  manufacturers  of  Carlisle.  There  are  a 
subscription  library,  and  also  one  belonging  to  the 
church.  Facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  roads 
kept  in  good  order  by  statute  labour.  The  ecclesias- 
tical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  pres- 
bytery of  Langholm  and  synod  of  Dumfries.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  about  £200  ;  patrons,  the  Crown, 
and  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch,  alternately.  The  church,  a 
plain  structure  built  in  1744,  and  containing  212  sit- 
tings, has  been  recently  enlarged.  There  is  a  place  of 
worship  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  well  conducted ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £25.  13.,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  £30  annually.  There  are  no  remains  of  the 
ancient  church  of  Morton ;  but  the  churchyard  is  still 
used. 

HALKIRK,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Caithness, 
7  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from  Thurso  ;  containing  2963  in- 
habitants, of  whom  236  are  in  the  village.  This  place, 
of  which  the  name  is  of  very  uncertain  origin,  includes 
the  ancient  parishes  of  Halkirk  and  Skinnet,  supposed 
to  have  been  united  soon  after  the  Reformation.  It  is 
evidently  of  very  remote  antiquity,  and  was  one  of  the 
seats  of  the  Harolds  and  Sinclairs,  earls  of  Caithness, 
of  whose  baronial  castle  there  are  still  considerable  re- 


HALK 


II  ALV 


mains  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river  Thurso.  On  the 
opposite  bank  of  that  river,  also,  was  one  of  the  resi- 
dences of  the  bishops  of  Caithness  and  Sutherland,  of 
which,  however,  not  the  slightest  vestige  can  now  be 
traced.  The  only  event  of  historical  importance  con- 
nected with  the  place,  is  the  assassination  of  one  of  the 
bishops  by  some  ruffians  said  to  have  been  employed  for 
that  purpose  by  the  Earl  of  Caithness,  in  revenge  for 
an  additional  assessment  imposed  by  the  bishop  on  his 
lands.  The  perpetrators  of  this  inhuman  murder  were 
afterwards  discovered,  through  the  strenuous  exertions 
of  King  Alexander  II.,  by  whose  special  order  they  were 
sentenced  to  exemplary  punishment. 

The  parish,  which  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  county,  is  about  twenty-four  miles  in  length  and 
from  three  to  twelve  in  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of 
7-1,000  acres,  of  which  6000  are  arable,  nearly  an  equal 
number  meadow  and  pasture,  and  the  remainder  moor- 
land, water,  and  waste.  The  surface  is  generally  level ; 
the  only  hill  of  any  considerable  elevation  is  that  of 
Spittal,  about  three  miles  to  the  south-east  of  the 
church,  and  partly  in  the  parish  of  Watten.  There 
are  not  less  than  twenty  lake's,  of  which  the  most  ex- 
tensive are,  Loch  Calder  in  the  north,  and  Loch  More 
in  the  south  ;  the  former  is  three  miles  and  a  half  in 
length  and  nearly  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  the  latter  of 
about  equal  extent.  The  rivers  are,  the  Thurso,  which, 
issuing  from  Loch  More,  flows  through  this  parish  and 
that  of  Thurso,  and  falls  into  the  sea  at  Thurso  bay; 
and  the  Forss,  which  partly  bounds  this  parish  on  the 
north-west,  and  joins  the  sea  at  Forss,  in  the  parish  of 
Thurso.  Salmon  and  trout  are  found  in  both  these 
rivers  ;  and  trout  of  various  kinds  are  taken  in  the 
larger,  and  also  in  the  smaller  lakes,  and  in  the  various 
streams  that  issue  from  them  into  the  river  Thurso. 

The  soil  is  various,  in  many  parts  a  clayey  loam, 
and,  though  generally  wet  and  cold,  resting  on  a  clayey 
subsoil,  has  been  greatly  improved  by  the  use  of  lime 
and  marl,  which  are  found  in  various  places.  The  chief 
crops  are,  oats,  barley,  and  bear ;  the  system  of  hus- 
bandry has  been  gradually  advancing,  and  some  consi- 
derable tracts  of  moor  and  moss  have  been  drained,  and 
brought  into  cultivation  ;  the  farm-houses  and  offices 
are  in  tolerable  condition,  and  the  lands  have  been 
partly  inclosed.  The  pastures  are  luxuriantly  rich  ;  and 
considerable  numbers  of  black-cattle  and  sheep  are 
reared,  the  former  of  the  Highland  breed,  and  are  sent 
to  Thurso  and  Wick,  whence  many  are  forwarded  by 
steam  to  the  English  markets.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £6052.  The  moors  abound  with 
game,  consisting  chiefly  of  grouse,  hares,  snipes,  and 
partridges ;  and  certain  portions  are  leased  out  by  the 
proprietors,  producing  a  rental  of  £500  per  annum. 
There  are  but  very  scanty  remains  of  ancient  wood  ; 
and  few  plantations  have  been  made,  except  around  the 
houses  of  some  of  the  proprietors  ;  and  these  are  not 
in  a  very  thriving  state,  the  soil  and  climate  being  un- 
favourable to  their  growth.  The  principal  substrata  are 
limestone  and  freestone ;  and  coal  and  lead-ore  have 
also  been  found,  the  latter  of  which  was  wrought  by  the 
late  Sir  John  Sinclair,  of  Ulbster,  Bart.  There  were 
once  several  quarries  of  limestone  in  operation,  both  for 
building  purposes  and  for  manure ;  and  quarries  of  flag- 
stone for  paving  are  wrought  at  Spittal,  the  produce 
being  annually  sent  to  Leith  and  Aberdeen,  for  exporta- 
531 


tion.  Several  handsome  and  substantial  houses  have 
been  erected  in  various  parts,  inhabited  by  some  of  the 
principal  farmers,  but  no  seat  requiring  particular 
description.  The  village  is  neatly  built ;  it  contains 
one  good  inn,  and  has  a  friendly  society  with  funds 
amounting  to  £300.  A  cattle-market,  called  St.  Mag- 
nus', is  held  in  the  village  on  the  third  Tuesday  in 
December ;  and  another,  called  Georgemass,  takes 
place  on  the  last  Tuesday  in  April  and  in  July,  on  the 
hill  of  Ruggy,  partly  in  the  parish.  Communication  is 
maintained  with  Thurso  by  several  good  roads,  recently 
formed,  and  by  two  bridges  over  the  river  Thurso,  one 
near  the  village,  and  the  other  at  Dale,  which  are  both 
substantial  structures ;  and  by  a  bridge  of  wood  at 
Dirlot.  The  turnpike- road  to  Thurso  passes  for  nearly 
a  mile  through  a  part  of  the  parish ;  and  letters  are 
brought  from  that  town  regularly  every  day  in  the 
week. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Caithness  and  synod  of 
Sutherland  and  Caithness.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£205.  19.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £8  per 
annum ;  patron,  Sir  James  Colquhoun,  Bart.  The 
church,  erected  in  17-13,  and  enlai-ged  in  1833,  is  situ- 
ated in  the  village,  and  is  a  neat  plain  structure  con- 
taining 858  sittings.  There  is  a  missionary  chapel  at 
Achrenny,  with  403  sittings  ;  the  minister  has  a  stipend 
of  £50  from  the  Royal  Bounty,  with  a  house  and  garden, 
and  pasture  for  a  horse.  In  addition  to  this,  he  receives 
£45  from  the  inhabitants  of  Halsary,  in  the  parish  of 
Watten,  and  Halladale,  in  the  parish  of  Reay,  where, 
also,  there  are  missionary  stations  at  which  he  officiates. 
The  parochial  school  is  well  conducted  ;  the  master  has 
a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  about  £5  per  annum.  There  are  several  Pictish 
houses,  and  remains  of  ancient  chapels  in  the  parish, 
among  which  latter  are  those  of  St.  Thomas  at  Skinnet, 
and  St.  Magnus  at  Spittal,  whereof  the  walls  are  still 
tolerably  entire.  Some  remains  of  a  third  also  existed, 
at  Banniskirk  ;  but  they  have  totally  disappeared  under 
the  operation  of  the  plough.  Of  the  remains  of  the 
castle  of  Braal,  the  seat  of  the  earls  of  Caithness,  the 
more  ancient  portion  is  a  tower,  of  which  the  walls,  of 
great  thickness,  are  still  remaining  to  the  height  of 
thirty- five  feet;  within  the  eastern  wall  is  a  staircase, 
leading  to  the  summit.  The  more  modern  portion, 
which,  from  the  difficulty  of  carrying  the  materials,  was 
never  completed,  consists  only  of  the  ground-floor,  100 
feet  in  length  and  fifty  feet  wide,  divided  into  six  vaults. 
There  are  also  remains  of  castles  at  Dirlot  and  Loch 
More  :  the  former,  said  to  have  been  erected  by  the 
Sutherlands,  is  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  detached 
rock  rising  abruptly  to  the  height  of  fifty  feet,  from  the 
river  Thurso,  by  which  it  was  at  one  time  surrounded. 
The  latter  was  built  by  Ronald  Cheyne,  in  the  14th 
century,  in  a  district  selected  as  abounding  with 
deer.  There  are  several  springs  supposed  to  possess 
mineral  properties ;  but  they  have  not  been  properly 
analysed. 

HAL  VERA,  or  Havera,  an  isle,  forming  part  of 
the  parishes  of  Bressay,  Burra,  and  Quarff,  in  the 
county  of  Shetland  ;  and  containing  37  inhabitants. 
It  lies  about  two  miles  southward  of  Burra  island,  and 
half  a  mile,  in  the  same  direction,  from  West  Burra, 
and  at  the  entrance  to  Cliff  sound.     The  isle  is  of  small 

3  Y2 


HAMI 


H  A  M  I 


Burgh  Seal. 


extent,  and  has  the  appearance  of  a  high  rock,  the 
access  to  it  being  by  a  romantic  kind  of  creek  ;  and 
the  houses  seem  built  in  [dangerous  situations  on  the 
brink  of  a  precipice.  There  is  a  smaller  isle,  called 
Little  Halvera. 

HAMILTON,  a  parish, 
burgh,  and  market-town,  in 
the  Middle  ward  of  the  county 
of  Lanark,  including  the  vil- 
lage of  Fernigair,  and  con- 
taining 10,862  inhabitants,  of 
whom  S876  are  in  the  town, 
11  miles  (S.  E.  by  E.)  from 
Glasgow,  and  38  (W.  S.  W.) 
from  Edinburgh.  This  place 
appears  to  have  been  distin- 
guished at  a  very  early  period, 
as  a  royal  residence,  under 
the  appellation  of  Cadzow,  of  which  name,  however,  the 
origin  and  signification  are  now  unknown.  In  1153, 
and  also  in  12S9,  the  monarchs  held  their  courts  here; 
and  it  continued  to  be  a  royal  manor  till  the  battle  of 
Bannockburn,  immediately  after  which  it  was  conferred 
by  Bruce  upon  Walter  Fitzgilbert  de  Hamilton,  ancestor 
of  the  present  ducal  family  of  that  name,  in  whose  pos- 
session it  has  ever  since  remained.  In  1445,  James  II., 
by  charter  dated  the  3rd  of  July,  created  James,  then 
proprietor  of  the  estate,  first  Lord  Hamilton  ;  and 
erected  the  manor  of  Cadzow  into  a  barony,  which  took 
its  name  from  the  family  of  its  possessor.  In  1474, 
Lord  Hamilton  married  the  Princess  Mary,  eldest 
daughter  of  the  king,  and  widow  of  the  Earl  of  Arran, 
by  virtue  of  which  alliance  his  descendants  were,  after 
the  death  of  James  V.,  recognised  by  parliament  as 
heirs  of  the  crown  in  the  event  of  the  death  of  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots.  On  their  accompanying  that  princess 
into  France,  they  were  created  dukes  of  Chatelherault, 
in  that  kingdom  •  and  they  were  subsequently  made 
dukes  of  Hamilton  by  Charles  I.,  and  dukes  of  Brandon, 
in  England,  by  Queen  Anne.  Few  events  of  historical 
importance  have  occurred  to  distinguish  the  town.  Of 
these  the  principal  are  conflicts  which  took  place  in 
1650,  between  the  army  of  the  Covenanters,  consisting 
of  1500  horse  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Kerr,  and 
the  forces  of  General  Lambert  sent  against  them  by 
Cromwell,  when,  after  an  obstinate  resistance,  in  which 
Kerr  and  100  of  his  men  were  killed,  the  Covenanters 
were  dispersed.  In  1679,  the  army  of  the  Covenanters, 
again  assembling,  to  the  number  of  4000  men,  encamped 
at  Bothwell  moor,  between  the  river  Clyde  and  the 
town,  from  which  position  they  were  dislodged  by  the 
royal  army  under  the  Duke  of  Monmouth,  by  whom 
they  were  defeated  with  the  loss  of  1200  of  their  num- 
ber who  were  taken  prisoners.  In  1774,  an  accidental 
fire  broke  out  in  the  town,  which,  raging  for  several 
days  with  unabated  violence,  reduced  a  considerable 
portion  of  it  to  ashes. 

The  town  is  situated  on  a  tract  of  elevated  ground, 
about  a  mile  from  the  confluence  of  the  Avon  with  the 
Clyde,  and  considerably  to  the  westward  of  the  ancient 
town,  of  which  the  only  remains  now  existing  are  a  small 
portion  of  an  out-building  belonging  to  the  old  hall  in  the 
pleasure-grounds  of  Hamilton  Palace.  It  is  intersected 
by  the  Cadzow  burn,  over  which  is  a  noble  bridge  of  three 
arches,  and  by  the  roads  leading  to  Glasgow  and  Edin- 
532 


burgh,  on  the  line  of  the  latter  of  which  an  elegant  bridge 
of  five  arches  was  erected,  over  the  Clyde,  by  act  of  par- 
liament, in  1780  :  across  the  same  river  is  also  Both- 
well  bridge,  a  very  ancient  structure  on  the  road  to 
Glasgow,  of  which  the  date  is  unknown,  and  which  was 
recently   widened  and  repaired.      A  handsome  bridge 
has  lately  been  built  over  the  Avon,  on  the   London 
road  ;  and  across  the  same  river  is  an  ancient  bridge  of 
three  arches,  built,  by  the  monks  of  Lesmahago.     The 
houses  are  in  general  well  built,  and  some  additional 
houses  have  been  very  recently'  erected.     The   streets 
are  lighted  with  gas  by  a  company  of  proprietary  share- 
holders, who  have  erected  works  for  the  purpose  upon 
a  very  elegant  plan  ;    and   the   inhabitants  are   amply 
supplied  with  water  conveyed  in  pipes,  from  a  distance 
of  three  miles,  by  a  company  whose  formation  was  but 
recently  completed.     The  public  library,  supported  by 
subscription,  was  first  opened  in  1S08,  chiefly  under  the 
auspices   of  Dr.  John  Hume,  and  at  present  contains 
more  than  3000  volumes  ;  and  a  mechanics'  institution 
has  been  established  within  the  last  few  years,  which  is 
maintained  with  success.    The  cavalry  barracks  occupy  a 
large  area  surrounded  with  a  wall,  and  comprise  a  riding- 
room,   and   an    hospital,   with    stabling  and   the   other 
usual  accommodations.    There  are  three  masonic  lodges, 
two  gardeners'  societies,  and  a  friendly  society.     Con- 
siderable improvements  have  taken  place  in  the  town 
by  the  formation  of  new  streets.     The  post  is  frequent ; 
and    great   facility    of  intercourse   is    maintained  with 
Glasgow  and  the  adjacent  towns  by  numerous  coaches 
and  other  modes  of  conveyance.    The  market  is  on  Fri- 
day ;  and  several  fairs  are  held  in  the  year,  which  were 
formerly  great  marts  for  lint  and  wool,  but  at  present 
are  little  more   than  large  markets.     The   market  for 
butchers'  meat  and  the  shambles  are  situated  nearly  in 
the  middle  of  the  town,  on  the  bank  of  the  Cadzow 
burn ;  and  the  buildings  are  neat,  and  well  adapted  to 
the  purpose,     A  very  considerable  trade  was  formerly 
carried   on  here   in  malt,   under  the    direction    of  the 
Society   of  Maltsters,   which  society  is    still   kept   up, 
though   the   trade   has    altogether  declined :    the   linen 
trade,  also,  which  formed  at  one  time  almost  the  staple 
business  of  the  place,    has  been  wholly   discontinued. 
The  cotton  trade,  on  its  first   introduction,  flourished 
here  for  some  years,  and  the  town  became  the  principal 
seat  of  the  district  for  the  weaving  of  imitation  or  Scotch 
cambrics  ;  it  has  been  on  the  decline  since  1792,  but  is 
still  considerable,  and  affords  employment  to  many  of 
the  inhabitants.    There  are  at  present  about  1300  looms 
in  the  town,  and  fifty  in  the  rural  districts  of  the  parish; 
and  many  females  are  engaged  in  winding  and  in  tam- 
bouring.    The  old  lace  manufacture,  introduced  by  one 
of  the  duchesses  of  Hamilton,  has  for  many  years  been 
decaying,  and  is  now  almost  extinct ;  but  a  new  manu- 
facture of  lace,  introduced  some  years  since  by  a  firm 
from   Nottingham,  is  at   present  the  most  flourishing 
trade  of  Hamilton,  and  gives  occupation  to  nearly  3000 
women  in  the  town  and  neighbourhood.     The  principal 
productions  are,  tamboured  bobbinets,  and  black  silk 
veils  of  various  patterns,  with  other  articles,  for  which 
there  is  a  very  large  and  increasing  demand,  for  the 
markets  of  England,  America,  and  the  British  colonies. 
Many   very    respectable   houses    are    engaged    in    this 
trade,  which  has,  since  its  introduction  by  Mr.  Galloch, 
been   very  much    improved   by  others.      Great    quan- 


H  A  M  I 


H  A  U  I 


tities  of  check  shirts  are  also  made  in  the  town,  and 
exported  to  Australia ;  the  weaving  of  stockings  is  car- 
ried on  to  a  limited  extent  ;  and  the  tanning  of  leather 
is  conducted,  though  on  a  very  small  scale. 

The  present  town,  though  the  greater  part  of  it  is 
comparatively  modern,  is  of  considerable  antiquity,  and, 
in  the  reign  of  James  II.,  was  erected  into  a  burgh  by 
charter  of  that  monarch,  granted  in  1456.  In  1548,  it 
was  created  a  royal  burgh  by  Queen  Mary  ;  and  it  con- 
tinued to  enjoy  its  privileges  as  such  till  16/0,  when  the 
inhabitants  forfeited  their  rights  by  disuse,  and  accepted 
a  new  charter  from  Anne,  Duchess  of  Hamilton,  by 
which  it  became  merely  the  chief  burgh  of  the  duchy  of 
Hamilton.  At  the  present  time,  the  government  is  vested 
in  a  provost,  three  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  a  council  of 
seven,  assisted  by  a  town-clerk  and  other  officers.  The 
provost  and  bailies  are  elected  annually  from  the  council, 
four  of  whom  go  out  of  office  by  rotation,  every  year, 
when  four  new  ones  are  chosen  by  the  inhabitants  ;  the 
treasurer  and  the  town-clerk  are  appointed  by  the  cor- 
poration. The  provost  and  bailies  are  justices  of  the 
peace,  by  virtue  of  their  office,  and  are  empowered  by 
the  charter  to  hold  courts  for  the  determination  of  all 
claims  in  actions  of  debt,  and  for  the  trial  of  all  criminal 
cases  not  extending  to  life  or  limb,  within  the  burgh. 
The  magistrates  used  formerly  to  hold  occasionally  a 
court  for  the  recovery  of  debts  under  forty  shillings, 
which  court,  however,  has,  on  account  of  a  doubt  en- 
tertained of  its  legality,  fallen  into  disuse  :  they  still 
hold  weekly  courts  for  the  recovery  of  debts  and  for 
civil  actions  to  an  unlimited  amount,  in  which  the  town- 
clerk  acts  as  assessor ;  and  also  courts  of  police  for 
the  trial  of  misdemeanours  and  other  offences  not  capi- 
tal. The  elective  franchise  was  granted  by  act  of  the 
2nd  and  3rd  of  William  IV. ;  and  the  burgh  has,  from 
that  time,  in  conjunction  with  Lanark,  Falkirk,  Linlith- 
gow, and  Airdrie,  returned  one  member  to  the  imperial 
parliament.  The  right  of  election  is  vested  in  the  house- 
holders occupying  tenements  of  the  yearly  value  of  £10 
and  upwards,  of  whom  there  are  nearly  300.  The  former 
court-house  and  prison,  erected  at  the  cross  in  the  reign 
of  Charles  I.,  were  lately  taken  down  ;  and  the  old 
town-hall  is  now  disused.  A  new  town-hall  with  pub- 
lic offices  and  a  prison,  of  which  the  first  stone  was 
laid  in  1834,  has  been  built  in  lieu,  and  consists  of  a 
distinct  range  of  building,  two  stories  high,  comprising, 
on  the  ground-floor,  three  apartments  for  the  sheriff's 
clerk,  with  a  record-room,  and  offices  for  the  town- 
clerk,  &c,  as  well  as  a  court-room  thirty-seven  feet  long, 
and  thirty-two  feet  broad  :  in  the  upper  story  is  a  large 
hall  for  county  meetings,  with  other  apartments.  Be- 
hind is  the  prison,  three  stories  high,  containing  forty- 
five  cells,  with  a  spacious  day-room  for  debtors,  and 
day-rooms  for  criminals  ;  the  lower  part  is  appropriated 
as  a  bridewell,  and  the  upper  part  to  debtors.  Between 
the  public  offices  and  the  prison  is  the  house  of  the 
governor,  with  requisite  apartments,  and  a  bath  for  the 
use  of  the  prison  ;  the  whole  surrounded  with  a  high 
wall,  inclosing  an  area  of  about  two  roods.  The  trades' 
hall,  in  Church-street,  erected  in  1816,  is  a  neat  and 
appropriate  building,  comprising,  in  the  upper  part,  a 
hall  for  the  meetings  of  the  trades,  and,  in  the  lower,  a 
well-arranged  tavern.  There  are  also  a  tax,  excise,  and 
stamp  office.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £3S,181. 
533 


The  parish  extends  for  nearly  six  miles  in  length, 
and  is  almost  of  the  same  breadth  ;  it  is  bounded  on 
the  north  and  north-east  by  the  river  Clyde,  on  the 
south  and  south-west  by  the  parish  of  Glassford,  on  the 
east  by  the  parishes  of  Dalziel,  Cambusnethan,  Dalserf, 
and  Stonehouse,  and  on  the  west  by  Blantyre.  It  com- 
prises 14,240  acres  of  land,  of  which  about  S000  are 
arable  and  of  good  quality,  2000  woodland,  and  2040 
unprofitable  or  waste.  The  surface  is  generally  level, 
occasionally  varied  with  sloping  ridges,  but  not  rising 
into  hills  of  any  considerable  elevation.  The  most  fer- 
tile lands  are  the  extensive  vales  on  the  southwestern 
bank  of  the  Clyde,  where  the  soil  is  a  deep  rich  loam  : 
and  on  the  north-eastern  side  of  that  river  are  some  hun- 
dreds of  acres  which,  though  belonging  to  this  parish, 
seem  to  be  more  properly  within  that  of  Dalziel,  which 
nearly  surrounds  them.  The  soil  in  the  middle  of  the 
parish  rests  upon  a  yellow  clay,  and  is  less  fertile  than 
that  of  the  valleys  near  the  Clyde;  the  higher  parts  con- 
sist chiefly  of  gravel  and  sand,  and  are  comparatively 
unproductive.  The  substrata  are  principally  sandstone 
rock,  appearing  in  great  masses  that  are  from  under 
fifty  to  more  than  300  feet  in  thickness  ;  whinstone 
also  prevails  in  some  parts,  and  coal,  lime,  and  ironstone 
are  found.  The  several  strata  of  coal  vary  from  twenty 
to  twenty-four  feet  in  average  thickness.  The  lime- 
stone is  of  various  quality  ;  that  obtained  in  the  south- 
west is  excellent,  and  much  used  for  building  and  also 
for  manure.  The  ironstone  is  found  in  seams  about 
eighteen  inches  thick,  and  also  in  masses  varying  from 
very  minute  balls  to  others  of  several  inches  in  diameter, 
chiefly  in  the  clay  near  the  strata  of  coal.  Among  the 
crops  are,  wheat,  which  is  grown  on  all  the  lands  near 
the  Clyde,  and  also  on  some  few  of  the  higher  lands  ; 
and  oats  of  various  descriptions,  of  which  the  Polish, 
Essex,  and  Friesland  are  predominant.  Peas  and  beans 
are  chiefly  raised  on  the  lower  grounds.  Barley,  for- 
merly more  largely  cultivated,  is  now  seldom  sown, 
except  for  preparing  lands  for  artificial  grasses ;  but 
potatoes  are  produced  in  great  quantities,  and  of  good 
quality,  and  a  little  flax  for  domestic  use.  The  system 
of  agriculture,  though  varying  greatly  in  different  parts, 
is  generally  advanced  ;  there  are  some  considerable 
dairy-farms,  and  much  attention  is  paid  to  the  breeding 
of  cattle,  in  which  many  improvements  have  taken  place 
within  the  last  few  years.  Great  improvement  has  also 
been  made  in  draining  and  inclosing  the  lands  ;  the 
fences  are  chiefly  hedges,  and  are  mostly  well  kept  up. 
The  pastures,  especially  in  the  low  lands  bordering  on 
the  Clyde,  are  fertile  ;  and  attached  to  a  few  of  the 
farms,  and  even  to  some  of  the  houses  in  the  town,  are 
orchards  which  are  cultivated  with  assiduous  care,  and 
abound  with  fruit  of  excellent  quality.  There  are  con- 
siderable tracts  of  woodland  in  the  parish,  of  which  the 
principal  are,  Bar-Michael  wood  near  Bothwell  bridge, 
Ross  wood  on  the  river  Clyde,  and  Hamilton  wood  on 
the  Avon  and  Barncluith  burn.  Forest  trees  of  every 
kind  thrive  well,  particularly  on  the  lower  lands.  Oak 
is  very  prevalent,  and  many  of  the  older  trees  have 
attained  considerable  size,  several  of  them  measuring 
thirty-six  feet  in  girth;  larch  and  Scotch  fir  also  thrive; 
and  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  where  they  have  any  eleva- 
tion, are  crowned  with  luxuriant  foliage.  Silver  and 
spruce  fir  are  grown  with  success ;  and  the  cedar  of 
Lebanon  has  attained  a  tolerable  size  where  it  has  been 


H  A  M  I 


H  A  M  I 


planted.  Freestone  is  found  in  several  parts,  of  a  good 
quality  for  building;  and  at  present  about  fifty  men  are 
constantly  employed  in  the  various  quarries. 

The  principal  river  is  the  Clyde,  which  rises  in  the 
heights  of  Crawford,  and  enters  the  parish  below  the 
falls  at  Lanark  ;  it  expands  abruptly  in  its  course,  which 
is  very  rapid,  into  a  breadth  varying  from  eighty  to  100 
feet,  and  is  subject  after  rains  to  frequent  inundations, 
by  which  the  lands  have  at  different  times  been  much 
injured.  The  Avon  also  intersects  the  parish,  receiving 
in  its  course  six  tributary  streams  ;  and  there  are  three 
other  streamlets  or  burns,  which  fall  into  the  Clyde. 
The  Avon  rises  on  the  west,  near  the  borders  of  the 
county  of  Ayr,  and,  after  a  picturesque  course  of  several 
miles  through  the  vale  to  which  it  gives  name,  enters 
the  parish  at  Millheugh  bridge,  a  little  below  which  it 
flows  through  a  defile  bounded  on  each  side  by  majestic 
rocks  of  romantic  aspect,  rising  to  the  height  of  200  or 
300  feet,  and  richly  clothed,  in  some  parts  almost  to 
their  summits,  with  stately  and  venerable  oaks.  Nearly 
in  the  centre  of  this  defile  are  the  remains  of  Cadzow 
Castle,  seated  on  a  rock  ascending  perpendicularly  to 
the  height  of  200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river;  and 
on  the  opposite  bank  is  the  banquet-house  of  the  Duke 
of  Hamilton,  built  after  the  model  of  Chatelherault, 
from  which  it  takes  its  name.  Not  far  from  the  extre- 
mity of  the  chasm,  and  about  three  miles  from  the  en- 
trance, are  the  gardens  of  Barncluith,  the  property  of 
Lord  Ruthven,  rising  in  terraces  from  the  western  bank 
of  the  river,  which,  after  forcing  its  way  through  this 
rocky  channel,  flows  along  the  fertile  valleys  of  the 
parish,  and  falls  into  the  Clyde  near  Hamilton  bridge. 
Of  the  several  tributary  streams  that  intersect  the  parish 
the  principal  are,  Cadzow  burn,  which  rises  in  Glass- 
ford,  and,  after  running  through  the  town,  falls  into  the 
Clyde  at  a  short  distance  below  Hamilton  bridge;  and 
Barncluith  burn,  which  joins  the  Avon  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  town.  The  latter  burn  flows  through  Hamil- 
ton wood,  forming  in  its  way  five  or  six  falls,  varying 
from  five  to  six  feet  in  height,  and  adding  greatly  to  the 
beauty  of  the  scenery.  The  Clyde  and  the  Avon  abound 
with  fish,  of  which  salmon,  trout,  pike,  perch,  lampreys, 
and  silver-eels  are  the  most  common;  and  roach  are 
occasionally  found.  Fish  are  found  also  in  the  streams 
tributary  to  those  rivers. 

Hamilton  Palace,  the  seat  of  his  grace  the  Duke 
of  Hamilton,  situated  on  the  borders  of  the  town,  about 
half  a  mile  to  the  west  of  the  confluence  of  the  Avon 
and  Clyde,  was  originally  a  square  tower  of  very  small 
dimensions.  The  more  ancient  part  of  the  present 
mansion  was  built  in  1590,  and  nearly  rebuilt  about  the 
year  1720  ;  considerable  additions  have  been  made  to  the 
building  since  1822,  and  at  present  it  is  one  of  the  most 
splendid  structures  in  the  kingdom.  The  north  front 
is  264  feet  in  length,  and  three  stories  in  height,  with  a 
stately  portico  of  duplicated  Corinthian  columns,  each 
thirty  feet  high,  and  three  feet  in  diameter,  formed  of 
one  single  block,  and  supporting  a  triangular  pediment. 
To  the  west  is  a  wing  100  feet  in  length,  appropriated 
for  offices  and  servants'  apartments ;  and  in  the  rear  of 
the  building  is  a  corridor  of  recent  addition,  in  which 
are  baths  and  various  appendages  for  the  use  of  the 
family.  The  entrance  hall  is  lofty  and  richly  embel- 
lished ;  and  all  the  state  apartments,  which  are  ex- 
tremely spacious,  are  magnificently  decorated,  and  richly 
534 


ornamented  with  sculpture.  The  dining-room  is  seventy 
feet  in  length  and  thirty  feet  wide,  and  has  numerous 
embellishments,  among  which  is  a  tripod  of  exquisite 
beauty  standing  on  a  pedestal  of  African  marble  :  the 
other  apartments,  also,  abound  with  costly  vases,  cabi- 
nets, specimens  of  mosaic,  gems,  and  other  rare  and 
interesting  curiosities.  The  gallery,  which  is  120  feet 
long,  twenty  feet  wide,  and  twenty  feet  high,  contains 
an  extensive  and  very  valuable  collection  of  paintings 
by  the  most  eminent  masters  of  the  Italian  and  Flemish 
schools,  and  many  family  portraits.  At  the  upper  end 
is  the  throne  used  by  his  grace  when  ambassador  at  the 
court  of  Petersburgh,  and  on  one  side  of  it  is  a  bust  of 
Augustus,  and  on  the  other  one  of  Tiberius,  both  of 
oriental  porphyry  :  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  gallery  is 
a  beautiful  door  of  black  marble,  surmounted  by  a 
pediment  supported  on  two  pillars  of  green  porphyry. 
The  library  contains  a  large  collection  of  well-assorted 
volumes,  and  of  prints,  the  latter  alone  being  valued  at 
£10,000.  The  stables,  built  between  the  palace  and  the 
town,  are  on  a  scale  adapted  to  the  style  of  the  palace  ; 
and  the  grounds  abound  with  stately  timber,  and  with 
every  variety  and  beauty  of  scenery.  The  banqueting- 
house  of  Chatelherault  was  erected  in  1732,  by  the  then 
duke,  after  a  model  of  the  citadel  of  that  name  in  France; 
it  is  built  of  red  freestone,  and  decorated  with  four  square 
towers,  and,  with  its  numerous  pinnacles  and  other 
ornaments,  forms  a  conspicuous  object  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  river  Avon.  It  contains,  among  various 
interesting  works  of  taste,  a  small  but  choice  collection 
of  paintings ;  and  the  grounds,  in  which  is  an  exten- 
sive flower-garden,  are  tastefully  embellished.  Earnock 
House,  a  seat  in  the  parish,  is  beautifully  situated  in 
its  western  part,  on  an  elevated  site  surrounded  with 
flourishing  plantations  ;  the  house  is  of  modern  erec- 
tion, well  adapted  for  its  purpose,  and  the  gardens  and 
pleasure-grounds  are  agreeably  laid  out.  Ross  is  a 
spacious  mansion,  pleasantly  situated  in  grounds  com- 
prehending much  pleasing  scenery  :  Nielsland  is  also  a 
handsome  residence,  with  an  extensive  demesne ;  and 
there  are  some  good  houses  at  Fair  Hill,  Grovemount, 
Edlewood,  and  Fairholme.  Of  Barncluith  the  principal 
feature  is  the  gardens  previously  noticed  ;  and  many  of 
the  ancient  seats  of  different  branches  of  the  Hamilton 
family  have  become  farm-houses.  The  chief  landed  pro- 
prietor is  the  Duke  of  Hamilton,  who  owns  more  than 
one-half  of  the  parish. 

The  parish  formerly  comprised  the  chapelry  of  Ma- 
chan,  now  the  parish  of  Dalserf ;  and  the  church  was 
granted  by  David  I.,  together  with  the  lands  belonging 
to  it,  to  the  abbey  of  Glasgow,  and  was  afterwards 
appropriated  to  the  deanery  of  that  see.  The  ecclesi- 
astical affairs  are  now  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  presbytery  of  Hamilton  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and 
Ayr.  There  are  two  ministers,  of  whom  the  first  has 
a  stipend  of  £313.  13.,  whereof  £2.  15.  arise  from  a 
bequest  for  communion  elements;  and  £107.  10.  are 
allowed  by  the  Duke  of  Hamilton  in  lieu  of  manse  and 
glebe  :  the  second  minister  has  a  stipend  of  less  amount, 
with  a  manse,  but  no  glebe.  The  old  church,  which  was 
made  collegiate  under  the  influence  of  the  first  Lord 
Hamilton,  in  1451,  stood  in  the  higher  part  of  the 
parish,  and  was  endowed  for  a  provost  and  eight  pre- 
bendaries, and  contained  a  chapel  dedicated  to  the  Vir- 
gin Mary,  for  which  a  chaplain  was  appointed.     The 


H  A  M  I 


H  A  It  D 


building,  which  was  of  hewn  stone,  consisted  of  a  nave, 
choir,  and  transepts,  of  elegant  design,  and  continued 
till  1732,  when  it  fell  into  decay,  since  which  time  it  has 
been  greatly  dilapidated,  nothing  of  it  now  remaining 
but  one  of  the  transepts,  still  used  as  a  burying-place 
for  the  Hamilton  family.  The  present  parish  church, 
situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  is  a  handsome 
structure  of  circular  form,  erected  after  a  design  by  the 
elder  Adam,  architect ;  and  is  adapted  to  a  congrega- 
tion of  S00.  A  second  church  in  connexion  with  the 
Establishment,  and  capable  of  containing  1021  persons, 
has  been  lately  erected;  but  this  building  is  now  in  the 
hands  of  members  of  the  Free  Church,  who  appoint 
the  minister.  The  Episcopalians  in  the  neighbourhood 
have  just  formed  themselves  into  a  congregation.  The 
Roman  Catholics  have  purchased  ground  for  the  erec- 
tion of  a  chapel ;  and  there  are  two  congregations  of 
the  Relief,  one  in  Muir-street,  and  the  other  in  Bran- 
don-street ;  also  places  of  wrorship  for  Antiburghers, 
New  Light  Burghers,  Old  Independents,  and  a  taber- 
nacle in  connexion  with  the  Congregational  Union.  The 
grammar  school  is  of  ancient  origin,  and  in  1588  was 
endowed  by  Lord  John  Hamilton  with  £20  Scotch  per 
annum ;  it  aiFords  a  liberal  education  to  about  forty 
children,  and  is  under  the  patronage  of  the  corporation. 
The  master's  salary  is  £34,  and  the  fees  on  the  average 
amount  to  £60  :  the  school-house  is  a  venerable  build- 
ing, nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  The  hospital 
founded  and  supported  by  the  Duke  of  Hamilton,  for 
twelve  aged  men,  was  originally  built  in  the  old  town, 
but  was  removed  to  the  present  after  the  erection  of  the 
collegiate  church  ;  it  is  an  ancient  building  with  a  cam- 
panile turret,  situated  near  the  cross,  and  was  formerly 
inhabited  by  the  pensioners,  but  has  for  some  years 
been  let  out,  and  the  receipts  applied  to  their  use.  An 
hospital  was  built  and  endowed  in  1775,  by  William 
Aikman,  Esq.,  for  four  aged  men,  who  have  each  a  resi- 
dence in  the  building,  which  is  in  Muir-street,  with  a 
suit  of  clothes  every  second  year,  and  £4  per  annum. 
Mr.  John  Rae  bequeathed  to  the  town  council  a  sum  of 
money  which,  together  with  some  bequests  of  other 
benefactors,  produces  an  annual  interest  of  £9.  2.  4., 
which,  according  to  the  will  of  the  testators,  is  distri- 
buted among  poor  housekeepers.  Mr.  Robertson,  of 
this  town,  and  sheriff-clerk  of  Lanark,  in  conjunction 
with  Mr.  Lyon,  left  £4  per  annum  for  nine  aged  men  ; 
and  Miss  Christian  Allan,  in  1785,  left  to  the  Kirk 
Session  £50,  in  trust  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor.  Mr. 
William  Torbet  bequeathed  to  the  same  trustees  an 
orchard  that  lets  at  £10  per  annum;  and  they  have 
also  a  legacy  of  £50,  the  interest  of  which  is  divided 
among  five  female  housekeepers  named  by  them  ;  an- 
other legacy  of  £50,  of  which  only  £30  were  paid,  for 
clothing  the  indigent  poor;  and  a  donation  of  £100,  of 
which  the  interest  is  applied  to  the  instruction  of  twelve 
children. 

Among  the  anticiuities  in  the  parish,  the  most  con-  . 
spicuous  are  the  remains  of  Cadzow  Castle,  previously 
noticed  as  crowning  the  summit  of  a  precipitous  rock 
rising  from  the  river  Avon,  in  Hamilton  woods  ;  it  has 
been  repaired  at  various  times.  The  keep,  surrounded 
by  a  fosse,  over  which  is  a  narrow  bridge  leading  to  the 
entrance  gateway,  and  a  well  within  the  walls,  are  still 
in  good  preservation ;  and  several  vaults,  with  part  of 
the  walls  of  the  chapel,  may  yet  be  distinctly  traced. 
535 


Darngaber  Castle,  in  the  south-east  of  the  parish,  sup- 
posed to  have  been  founded  by  Thomas,  son  of  Sir  John 
de  Hamilton,  lord  of  Cadzow,  occupied  an  elevated  site 
at  the  extremity  of  a  point  of  land  near  the  confluence 
of  two  rivulets  :  the  only  remains  are,  portions  of  the 
foundations,  which  appear  to  have  consisted  of  flat  un- 
hewn and  uncemented  stones ;  and  some  vaults,  that 
seem  to  have  been  constructed  at  a  much  earlier  period. 
At  Meikle  Earnoch,  two  miles  south  of  the  town,  is  a 
tumulus  about  twelve  feet  in  diameter,  and  eight  feet 
high,  which  appears  to  have  been  originally  of  larger 
dimensions.  On  opening  it  several  urns  were  found, 
containing  human  bones  nearly  reduced  to  ashes  ;  they 
were  all  of  baked  earth,  without  inscription,  but  some 
of  them  were  decorated  with  mouldings.  To  the  north 
of  Hamilton  Palace  is  a  mount  supposed  to  have  been 
in  remoter  ages  a  seat  for  the  administration  of  justice  ; 
it  is  about  thirty  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  fif- 
teen feet  high,  and  near  it  is  a  stone  cross  four  feet 
high,  without  inscription.  This  is  thought  to  have  been 
the  market  cross  of  the  old  town,  called  Netherton, 
which,  previously  to  the  erection  of  the  present  town  of 
Hamilton,  occupied  this  part.  In  the  south  of  the 
parish  is  a  portion  of  a  cromlech,  consisting  of  one 
stone  of  about  six  feet,  which,  having  declined  greatly 
from  its  erect  position,  was  recently  replaced  by  the 
tenant  of  a  neighbouring  farm. 

HANDA,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Eddrachillis, 
county  of  Sutherland  ;  containing  65  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  off  the  western  coast  of  the  county,  and 
separated  from  the  main  land  of  the  parish  by  a  narrow 
sound;  and  is  about  a  mile  square.  On  the  north,  one 
vast  perpendicular  rock,  or  majestic  cliff,  600  feet  in 
height,  presents  its  face  to  the  sea,  and  is  the  habitation 
of  innumerable  sea-fowl  during  the  season  of  incuba- 
tion ;  on  the  south,  the  isle  is  much  lower,  and  the 
ascent,  gentle  and  easy.  It  has  some  fertile  spots,  pro- 
ducing corn  and  hay,  but  is  principally  appropriated  to 
sheep-walks.  Fishing  is  the  chief  employment  of  the 
population,  who  also  obtain  by  fowling,  and  frequently 
by  daring  exploits,  great  quantities  of  birds  and  eggs,  as 
well  for  disposal  to  their  main  land  neighbours,  as  for 
their  own  subsistence.  This  was  once  the  residence  of 
Little  John  Mac  Dhoil  Mhich  Huishdan,  one  of  the 
Macleods  of  Assynt,  and  the  murderer  of  Judge  Mori- 
son,  of  Lewis,  in  the  reign  of  James  VI. 

HANGIN  SHAW,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cath- 
cart,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  1  mile 
(N.  N.  E.)  from  Cathcart;  containing  143  inhabitants. 
It  is  seated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  and  a 
short  distance  east  of  the  road  from  Cathcart  to  Glas- 
gow :   the  Cart  water  flows  south  of  the  village. 

HARDGATE,  a  village,  in  that  part  of  the  parish  of 
Old  Kilpatrick  which  formed  the  quoad  sacra  parish 
of  Duntocher,  county  of  Dumbarton,  2  miles  (E.) 
from  Old  Kilpatrick  ;  containing  467  inhabitants.  This 
is  one  of  numerous  thriving  villages  which  have  sprung 
up  in  this  great  manufacturing  district  within  the  pre- 
sent century.  It  arose  in  the  erection  of  the  mill  here,  in 
1831,  for  spinning  and  weaving  cotton,  by  ftlr.  Dunn,  a 
large  proprietor  of  land  in  this  quarter,  and  the  enter- 
prising founder  of  several  other  mills  and  works  in  the 
vicinity.  The  villages  of  Hardgate,  Duntocher,  Faifley, 
and  Milton,  in  which  Mr.  Dunn  has  considerable  esta- 
blishments, are  all  within  less  than  a  mile  of  each  other, 


HARE 


H  A  S  C 


and  border  on  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  which  flows  on  the 
south  of  the  parish. 

HARDGATE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Urr,  stew- 
artry  of  Kirkcudbright,  5^  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Castle- 
Douglas  ;  containing  46  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  the 
centre  of  the  parish,  a  short  distance  northward  of  the 
church. 

HARRAY. — See  Birsay,  county  of  Orkney. 

HARRIS,  a  parish,  comprising  the  southern  divi- 
sion of  the  island  of --Lewis,  in  the  county  of  Inver- 
ness, 44  miles  (N.  W.)  from  Portree  ;  and  containing, 
with  the  islands  designated  Bernera,  Ensay,  Hermitray, 
Killigray,  Pabbay,  Scalpay,  Scarp,  and  Tarrinsay,  4429 
inhabitants.  The  parish  of  Harris  was  till  lately  called 
Kilbride;  its  present  name  is  corrupted  from  the 
Gaelic  term  na  hardibh,  signifying  "  the  heights,"  this 
district  of  the  Hebrides  being  the  highest  and  most 
mountainous  of  any  in  the  island  of  Lewis.  It  consists 
chiefly  of  the  southern  part  of  that  island,  separated 
from  the  northern  portion  by  an  isthmus  about  six  miles 
across,  formed  by  the  approach  to  each  other  of  the  two 
great  harbours,  Loch  Resort  and  Loch  Seaforth.  The 
Atlantic  Ocean  bounds  it  on  the  west ;  on  the  east  is  the 
Minch,  which  separates  it  from  the  island  of  Skye;  and 
on  the  south  is  the  channel  generally  called  the  Sound 
of  Harris,  but  sometimes  Caolas  Uist,  or  the  Sound  of 
Uist,  lying  between  Harris  and  the  islands  of  Bernera 
and  North  Uist.  The  parish  is  fifty  miles  in  length, 
varies  in  breadth  from  eight  to  twenty-four  miles,  and 
comprises  94,000  Scotch  acres,  of  which  85,000  are 
moor  and  pasture,  800  subject  to  tillage  by  the  plough, 
and  6000  by  the  spade,  300  under  plantations,  and  the 
remainder  sand  and  rock.  The  shore  on  the  west  is  in 
some  parts  sandy,  and  in  others  strongly  marked  by  pre- 
cipitous rocks ;  the  eastern  coast  is  broken  with  many 
harbours,  bays,  and  creeks.  At  a  small  distance  on  the 
west  are  the  inhabited  islands  denominated  Tarrinsay 
and  Scarp  ;  and  in  the  Sound  of  Harris,  a  channel  about 
nine  miles  across,  affording  a  communication  for  vessels 
between  the  Minch  and  the  Atlantic,  are  the  inhabited 
islands  of  Bernera,  Pabbay,  Ensay,  and  Killigray,  with 
many  smaller  ones,  uninhabited,  and  entirely  appro- 
priated to  pasturage.  The  coasts  abound  with  oysters 
and  lobsters,  and  several  boats  are  engaged  in  taking 
the  latter :  the  sun-fish,  also,  is  sometimes  taken  in 
the  summer  months,  with  the  harpoon  ;  and  in  the 
island  of  Gaasker,  seals  are  killed  in  large  numbers 
with  clubs. 

The  main  land  of  the  parish  is  divided  into  two  dis- 
tinct portions  by  an  isthmus  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
breadth,  formed  by  an  arm  of  the  sea  on  each  side, 
respectively  called  East  and  West  Loch  Tarbert.  The 
northern  district  is  prominently  intersected  by  part  of 
a  range  of  mountains  running  longitudinally  through- 
out the  parish,  and  which  attain  an  elevation  of  from 
2000  to  3000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  are 
here  at  their  greatest  height.  This  portion  is  traversed 
by  large  herds  of  deer,  which  range  among  the  hills  and 
glens ;  and,  though  destitute  of  wood,  is  called  the 
Forest,  having,  as  is  supposed,  been  once  a  royal  forest. 
The  surface  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  parish  is 
similar  in  appearance  to  the  former,  but  marked  by  more 
moderate  elevations  :  grouse,  wild-geese,  plover,  and 
pigeons,  are  numerous  on  the  moors  and  lower  grounds  ; 
and  the  eagle  is  a  visitant  of  some  of  the  most  lofty 
536 


rocks.  There  are  fresh-water  lakes  and  rivulets  in  every 
direction;  the  waters  of  Lacksta,  Scurt,  and  Obbe 
abound  with  salmon  and  trout.  The  district  is  chiefly 
pastoral,  only  a  very  small  portion,  on  account  of  the 
intractable  nature  of  the  ground,  being  capable  of 
the  regular  operations  of  husbandry.  The  soil  of  a 
large  part  of  the  land  in  cultivation  is  very  poor ;  and 
several  of  the  best  farms,  formerly  possessed  by  small 
tenants,  have  been  consolidated,  and  converted  into 
sheep-walks.  The  crops  consist  principally  of  oats,  bar- 
ley, and  potatoes ;  the  live  stock  are  mostly  Cheviot 
sheep  and  black- cattle,  to  the  breed  of  which  particular 
attention  is  paid.  The  small  tenants  occupy  cottages  of 
unhewn  stone,  with  clay  cement,  and  covered  with  straw 
thatch,  the  one  building  often  serving  for  the  family  and 
the  cows  and  horses  :  on  the  larger  farms  are  respect- 
able steadings.  The  Earl  of  Dunmore  is  proprietor  of 
the  parish,  and  has  a  shooting-seat  here.  The  rocks  are 
partly  of  the  primitive  formation  ;  but  that  which  most 
prevails  is  gneiss.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  Harris 
is  £4015. 

About  250  families  are  engaged,  during  the  summer 
months,  in  the  manufacture  of  kelp,  600  tons  of  which 
are  annually  prepared  :  attempts  were  made  by  the  late 
proprietor  to  establish  fishing-stations  in  several  parts 
of  the  parish,  but  they  all  proved  unsuccessful.  The 
harbour  of  Scalpay,  on  the  eastern  coast,  is  much  fre- 
quented by  foreign  ships  ;  and  the  numerous  bays  and 
creeks  are  convenient  places  of  resort  for  small  craft. 
Many  boats  belong  to  the  parish,  and  are  employed  in 
conveying  kelp  to  market  :  the  lobsters  taken  here  are 
regularly  sent  by  smacks  to  London.  A  packet  runs  twice 
in  each  week  in  summer,  and  once  in  winter,  between 
Tarbert,  in  Harris,  and  Uig,  in  the  Isle  of  Skye.  An 
annual  fair  is  held  in  July,  at  Tarbert,  for  the  sale  of 
cattle  and  horses  ;  the  sheep  graziers  send  their  stock 
to  the  Falkirk  tryst.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Uist  and  synod  of  Glenelg,  and  in  the  patronage  of  the 
Earl  of  Dunmore:  the  minister's  stipend  is  £158,  of 
which  nearly  two-thirds  are  received  from  the  exche- 
quer, with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £45  per 
annum.  A  new  church,  with  400  sittings,  has  just 
been  built,  the  old  edifice,  situated  nearly  in  the  centre 
of  the  parish,  and  accommodating  only  250  persons, 
having  become  too  ruinous  for  public  worship.  At 
Bernera  is  a  government  church,  erected  in  1829,  to 
which  is  attached  a  district  consisting  of  some  islands 
belonging  to  the  parish ;  and  a  missionary  is  supported 
at  Tarbert  by  the  Royal  Bounty,  a  church  and  manse 
having  been  provided  by  A.  N.  Macleod,  Esq.,  the  late 
proprietor.  The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in 
Latin,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  branches ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £30,  with  a  house,  and  about  £6  fees. 
There  are  also  three  schools  supported  by  the  Gaelic 
School  Society,  Gaelic  being  the  prevailing  language  of 
the  place ;  but  these  will  soon  be  superseded  by  Eng- 
lish schools.  The  chief  relic  of  antiquity  is  the  ruin  of 
a  church  at  Rodil,  once  attached  to  the  priory  of  St. 
Clement's,  and  used,  until  it  became  too  much  dilapi- 
dated, as  the  parochial  place  of  worship. 

HARTHILL,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Shotts, 
Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  containing  1?6 
inhabitants. 

HASCUSSAY,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Mid  and 
South    Yell,    county  of  Shetland  ;    containing   42 


HAVE 


HA  W  I 


inhabitants.  It  lies  on  the  east  side  of  Yell,  in  Col- 
grave  sound,  and  west  of  the  isle  of  Fetlar ;  it  is  one  of 
the  smaller  of  the  Shetland  group,  and  was  formerly 
uninhabited. 

HASSENDEAN,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Minto, 
district  of  Jedburgh,  county  of  Roxburgh,  7  miles 
(W.)  from  Jedburgh ;  containing  21  inhabitants.  This 
place,  seated  on  a  small  stream  of  the  same  name,  was 
anciently  a  parish,  of  which  the  lands  were  divided  be- 
tween the  parishes  of  Minto,  Wilton,  and  Roberton. 
After  the  Reformation  the  church  and  its  pertinents 
were  granted  to  Walter,  Earl  of  Buccleuch.  There  was 
formerly  a  cell  here,  dependent  on  the  abbey  of  Mel- 
rose ;  and  a  farm  adjoining  the  church  continues  to 
bear  the  name  of  the  Monks'  croft.  The  church  and 
greater  part  of  the  churchyard  have  been  washed  away 
by  the  river  Teviot,  which  passes  on  the  south  of  the 
parish  of  Minto,  and  of  which  the  Hassendean  burn  is 
a  tributary. 

HAUGH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Mauchline, 
district  of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr,  1§  mile  (S.)  from 
Mauchline;  containing  79  inhabitants.  It  is  seated  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  river  Ayr,  and  has  a  woollen 
manufactory,  chiefly  for  carpet  yarn,  employing  about 
thirty  persons. 

HAUGH,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Urr,  stewartry 
of  Kirkcudbright,  4|  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Castle- 
Douglas  ;  containing  240  inhabitants.  It  is  situated 
on  the  Urr  water,  about  a  mile  westward  from  the 
church,  and  is  one  of  the  four  most  populous  villages 
in  the  parish. 

HAUGH-HEAD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  ofCAMPSiE, 
county  of  Stirling  ;  containing  328  inhabitants,  This 
place  is  situated  in  the  western  part  of  the  parish,  and 
is  one  of  several  villages  of  which  the  population  is 
engaged  in  the  coal-mines,  print-works,  and  print-fields 
of  the  district. 

HAUGH-M1LL,  a  village,  in  that  part  of  the  parish 
of  Markinch  which  formed  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
Milton  of  Balgonie,  county  of  Fife  ;  containing  1/0 
inhabitants.  This  village  has  risen  since  the  erection 
of  some  mills,  in  1794,  for  the  spinning  of  flax  and  tow 
into  canvass  yarn,  for  which  purpose  they  continued  to 
be  employed  till  1832,  when  the  present  proprietor  in- 
troduced a  complete  set  of  new  machinery,  for  the 
spinning  of  the  finer  yarns  for  home-made  linens.  In 
1835,  he  greatly  augmented  the  number  of  spindles, 
now  amounting  to  2000.  The  machinery  is  propelled 
by  two  water-wheels  of  forty-horse  power ;  and  from 
twenty-five  to  thirty  tons  of  flax  are  consumed  monthly, 
imported  chiefly  from  Holland,  Belgium,  France,  Arch- 
angel, Riga,  and  St.  Petersburg.  In  1836,  a  spacious 
bleachfield  was  established  in  connexion  with  the  works  ; 
and  both  of  these  afford  employment  to  about  185 
persons,  many  of  whom  live  in  cottages  built  upon  the 
premises. 

HAVEN,  EAST,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Pan- 
bride,  county  of  Forfar,  4|  miles  (S.  \V.)  from 
Arbroath;  containing  145  inhabitants.  This  place  de- 
rives its  affix  from  its  relative  situation  with  respect  to 
another  village,  about  a  mile  distant,  and  also  on  the 
sea-coast.  It  is  neatly  built,  and  is  inhabited  chiefly 
by  persons  engaged  in  the  fishery,  and  in  the  trades 
requisite  for  the  supply  of  the  immediate  neighbour- 
hood. The  fish  that  are  taken  are,  lobsters,  cod,  had- 
Vol.  I. — 537 


docks,  and  other  kinds,  which  are  found  in  abundance 
off  this  part  of  the  coast,  and  are  sent  to  Dundee  and 
other  places  in  the  vicinity,  and  to  the  London  market. 
Great  quantities  of  lobsters  are  forwarded  to  London, 
being  kept  alive  during  the  passage  by  the  free  admis- 
sion of  sea-water  into  wells  constructed  for  that  pur- 
pose. The  cod  and  haddocks  are  sold  fresh  at  Dundee, 
and  markets  in  the  vicinity ;  and  after  the  supply  of 
the  neighbourhood,  many  are  salted,  and  exported  to 
distant  places.  Three  boats  are  employed  in  the  fishery  : 
the  season  for  the  lobster-fishing  commences  in  the 
beginning  of  February,  and  usually  terminates  about 
the  end  of  May.  A  considerable  trade,  also,  is  carried 
on  here,  during  the  summer,  in  the  importation  of  coal 
and  lime ;  and  there  are,  belonging  to  this  place  and 
West  Haven,  four  vessels,  varying  in  burthen  from 
about  fifty  to  seventy  tons.  The  village  has  no  pro- 
perly constructed  harbour,  but  merely  an  open  cove  or 
landing  place,  accessible  to  vessels  of  eighty  tons ;  so 
that,  from  the  want  of  shelter,  the  trade  is  entirely  dis- 
continued during  the  winter.  Facility  of  intercourse  is 
afforded  by  the  great  turnpike-road  from  Dundee  to 
Arbroath,  and  by  the  Dundee  and  Arbroath  railway, 
which  has  an  intermediate  station  here,  a  handsome 
structure  in  the  Elizabethan  style,  furnished  with  every 
requisite  accommodation. 

HAVEN,  WEST,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Pan- 
bride,  county  of  Forfar,  5|  miles  (S.  W.)from  Ar- 
broath ;  containing  301  inhabitants.  This  village  is 
situated  on  the  coast,  at  a  distance  of  a  mile  only 
from  East  Haven,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  small 
hamlet  adjoining  it,  to  the  landward,  is  in  every 
respect  so  identified  with  that  village  in  its  fishery, 
trade,  and  other  circumstances,  as  to  require  no  separate 
description. 

HAVERA,  county  of  Shetland. — See  Halvera. 

HAWICK,  a  burgh  of 
barony  and  a  parish,  in  the 
district  of  Hawick,  county 
of  Roxburgh,  10  miles  (w. 
S.  W.)  from  Jedburgh,  and 
50  (S.  S.  E.)  from  Edin- 
burgh ;  containing  S000  in- 
habitants, of  whom  7000  are 
in  the  burgh.  This  place,  of 
which  the  name  simply  de- 
notes "  a  village  or  town  in 
the  bend  of  a  river,"  is  of 
remote  antiquity,  and  is  ge- 
nerally supposed  to  have  been  originally  of  Saxon  foun- 
dation ;  but  very  little  of  its  history  is  known  prior  to 
the  commencement  of  the  fourteenth  century.  The  first 
authentic  notice  of  the  burgh  occurs  in  a  charter  granted 
by  Robert  Bruce  ;  and  the  barony,  together  with  that 
of  Sprouston,  appears  to  have  been  conferred  by  David 
II.  on  Thomas  de  Murray,  from  whom  it  descended, 
during  that  king's  reign,  to  Maurice,  Earl  of  Strathearn. 
In  the  early  part  of  the  fifteenth  century,  it  became  the 
property  of  Sir  William  Douglas,  who,  for  his  gallant 
services  in  the  wars  of  the  border,  obtained  from  James 
I.  a  charter  confirming  to  him  the  lands  of  Hawick,  and 
bestowing  also  those  of  Selkirk  and  Drumlanrig.  The 
barony  remained  for  many  generations  in  the  possession 
of  his  descendants,  of  whom  Sir  William  Douglas  was, 
in  1639,  created  Earl  of  Queensberry,  Viscount  Drum- 

3  Z 


Burgh  Seal. 


HAWI 


H  A  WI 


lanrig,  and  Lord  Hawick.  It  subsequently  became  the 
property  of  the  Scott  family,  who  continued  to  exercise 
lordly  authority  over  their  feudatories  till  the  year  1747, 
when,  on  the  final  abolition  of  heritable  jurisdictions, 
the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  received  from  parliament  the 
sum  of  £400,  as  a  compensation.  During  the  border 
warfare,  the  town  suffered  repeated  devastation  ;  in  1418, 
it  was  burnt  by  the  forces  under  Sir  Robert  Umfraville, 
governor  of  Berwick,  and  in  1544  was  laid  waste  by  the 
troops  of  Sir  Ralph  Evers  and  Sir  Brian  Latoun.  In 
1570,  to  prevent  its  occupation  by  the  English  under 
the  Earl  of  Surrey,  the  inhabitants  themselves  set  fire 
to  the  town,  which,  with  the  exception  of  the  ancient 
castle,  called  the  Black  Tower,  was  wholly  destroyed, 
In  rebuilding  the  town  after  these  calamities,  the  dan- 
gers to  which  it  was  exposed  led  to  the  adoption  of  a 
peculiar  style  of  architecture ;  the  houses  were  built  of 
rough  whinstone,  with  walls  of  massive  thickness,  and 
without  any  entrance  except  from  a  court-yard  in  the 
rear.  Of  these  buildings,  each  of  which  was  well  cal- 
culated for  defence,  there  are  still  some  few  specimens 
remaining.  From  its  situation  near  the  confluence  of 
two  rivers,  the  town  is  exposed  to  inundations  ;  and  in 
1767,  after  a  heavy  fall  of  rain,  the  Slitrig,  in  the  course 
of  two  hours,  rose  to  a  height  of  twenty  feet  above  its 
ordinary  level,  and  carried  away  the  garden  wall  of  the 
manse,  the  parish  school-room,  a  corn-mill,  and  the 
whole  of  the  houses  in  one  of  the  streets. 

The  present  town  is  pleasantly  seated  on  the  south- 
east bank  of  the  Teviot,  and  is  divided  into  two  parts  by 
the  river  Slitrig,  which  flows  through  it  into  the  former 
stream.  It  consists  of  one  principal  street,  and  of  seve- 
ral smaller  streets  and  lanes  diverging  from  it  on  both 
sides  ;  some  new  streets  have  been  formed,  and  a  hand- 
some range  of  buildings  called  Slitrig-crescent,  and 
another  named  Teviot-crescent.  The  streets  are  well 
paved,  and  lighted  with  gas ;  and  the  inhabitants  are 
amply  supplied  with  water,  conveyed  by  pipes.  Con- 
necting the  opposite  sides  of  the  town  are  two  bridges 
over  the  Slitrig,  one  of  which  is  of  antique  character ; 
and  towards  the  eastern  extremity,  an  elegant  bridge 
has  been  erected  across  the  Teviot.  The  approach  to 
the  town,  both  from  the  east  and  west,  derives  great 
beauty  from  the  nursery  grounds  and  gardens  in  those 
directions ;  the  surrounding  scenery,  also,  is  very  pleas- 
ing. The  public  subscription  library,  established  in 
1762,  is  supported  by  a  proprietary  of  shareholders,  and 
has  a  collection  of  3500  volumes  ;  the  trades'  library, 
opened  in  1802,  has  1200  volumes  ;  and  there  are  seve- 
ral smaller  libraries.  The  town  also  contains  three 
public  reading  and  news  rooms,  as  well  as  subscription 
assembly-rooms,  which  are  used  occasionally  for  public 
meetings.  A  school  of  arts,  founded  in  1824,  under  the 
patronage  of  James  Douglas,  Esq.,  was  formerly  sup- 
ported by  subscription,  for  the  delivery  of  courses  of 
lectures  on  literary  and  scientific  subjects. 

The  staple  trade  is  the  woollen  manufacture,  which 
of  late  has  been  rapidly  increasing,  and  is  now  carried 
on  to  a  very  considerable  extent.  The  weaving  of  coarse 
woollen  stockings  was  first  introduced  in  1771,  by  Mr. 
John  Hardie,  and,  on  his  retiring  from  the  concern  in 
1780,  was  continued  on  a  much  larger  scale  by  Mr. 
John  Nixon.  Still,  comparatively  little  was  done  pre- 
viously to  the  adoption  of  machinery  for  the  spinning  of 
yarn,  which  took  place  about  the  commencement  of  the 
538 


present  century.  Since  that  period  the  woollen  manu- 
facture has  greatly  increased  in  variety  and  extent ;  and 
there  are  now  eleven  factories  belonging  to  the  manu- 
facturers of  this  place,  some  of  them,  however,  situated 
within  the  limits  of  the  adjoining  parish  of  Wilton. 
In  all  of  these,  machinery  on  the  most  approved  prin- 
ciples is  employed  ;  four  are  partly  driven  by  steam, 
and  the  others  by  water  only.  The  articles  are,  under- 
clothing, flannels,  plaidings,  shawls,  tartans,  drug- 
gets and  woollen  cloths  of  every  description,  lambs'- 
wool  hosiery  of  the  finest  texture,  and  Scottish  and 
English  blankets.  The  production  of  these  affords  occu- 
pation, including  women,  to  nearly  3000  persons.  There 
are  also  many  persons  employed  in  the  making  of 
thongs,  gloves,  candles,  and  some  other  articles,  and  in 
the  tanning  of  leather  and  dressing  of  sheep-skins  ;  the 
manufacture  of  machinery  of  all  kinds  is  consider- 
able ;  and  there  are  numerous  masons,  carpenters, 
smiths,  millwrights,  and  others  occupied  in  handicraft 
trades.  The  post-office  has  a  good  delivery ;  and  pre- 
viously to  the  alteration  in  the  rates  of  postage  the 
revenue  amounted  to  £1000.  There  are  three  branch 
banks,  and  a  savings'  bank,  in  which  latter  the  deposits 
are  nearly  £7000.  The  market  is  on  Thursday,  and  is 
amply  supplied  with  grain  and  with  all  kinds  of  provi- 
sions. Fairs  are  held  on  the  17th  of  May,  for  cattle 
and  hiring  servants;  on  the  20th  and  21st  of  Septem- 
ber, for  sheep  ;  on  the  third  Tuesday  in  October,  for 
cattle  and  horses  ;  and  the  8th  of  November,  for  cattle 
and  hiring  servants.  Facility  of  communication  is 
afforded  by  turnpike  and  statute  roads,  which  have 
been  greatly  improved,  and  by  bridges  over  the  rivers, 
kept  in  excellent  repair. 

The  more  ancient  records  of  the  burgh  were  lost  in 
the  destruction  of  the  town  during  the  border  wars  ; 
and  the  oldest  charter  now  extant  is  that  granted  by 
James  Douglas,  baron  of  Hawick,  and  dated  in  1537. 
Under  this  charter,  ratified  and  extended  in  1545,  by 
Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  the  inhabitants  exercise  all  the 
privileges  of  a  royal  burgh,  with  the  exception  of  send- 
ing a  member  to  parliament.  The  government  is  vested 
in  two  bailies,  elected  annually,  a  treasurer,  and  a  cotin- 
cil  of  thirty-one  members,  of  whom  fifteen  are  appointed 
as  vacancies  occur,  and  hold  their  seats  for  life,  and 
fourteen  are  chosen  every  year  by  the  seven  incorpo- 
rated trades,  each  of  which  returns  two.  The  fees  for 
admission  as  a  burgess  are,  for  strangers  £4,  for  the 
sons-in-law  of  burgesses  £2,  and  for  sons  £1.  The  in- 
corporated trades  are,  the  weavers,  tailors,  hammermen, 
skinners,  shoemakers,  butchers,  and  bakers,  the  highest 
fee  for  admission  into  which  is  ten  shillings.  The  ma- 
gistrates hold  courts  when  requisite,  both  for  civil  and 
criminal  cases  within  the  burgh,  in  which  they  are 
assisted  by  the  town-clerk,  who  acts  as  assessor  ;  in 
civil  pleas  their  jurisdiction  extends  to  sums  of  any 
amount,  but  in  criminal  cases  is  confined  to  petty  mis- 
demeanours. Annually,  on  the  last  Friday  in  May,  O.  S., 
a  procession  of  the  magistrates  on  horseback  occurs, 
which  is  called  the  riding  of  the  marches  ;  and  on  this 
occasion,  a  standard  taken  in  1514,  the  year  subse- 
quent to  that  in  which  the  battle  of  Flodden  Field 
was  fought,  is  carried  before  them.  There  is  a  town- 
hall,  in  which  the  courts  are  held ;  and  a  gaol  has 
been  very  recently  erected  for  the  use  of  the  town  and 
district. 


H  A  W  I 


HEBH 


The  parish,  which  is  situated  in  the  western  portion 
of  the  county,  is  about  fifteen  and  a  half  miles  in  length, 
and  rather  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  in  average 
breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  15,360  acres,  of  which 
4100  are  arable,  160  woodland  and  plantations,  and 
11,100  meadow  and  pasture.  The  surface  is  beautifully 
diversified.  A  sinuous  valley,  watered  by  the  river 
Teviot,  intersects  the  parish  nearly  through  the  whole 
length,  and  is  bounded  on  either  side  by  ranges  of 
hills,  clothed  with  verdure  to  their  summits,  and  seve- 
ral of  which  have  a  considerable  elevation.  The  vale  of 
the  Slitrig,  intersecting  the  parish  towards  the  east, 
forms  also  a  rich  pastoral  district,  though  of  more  wild 
and  secluded  aspect.  The  scenery  is  greatly  enlivened 
by  the  windings  of  the  two  rivers,  which  unite  at  the 
town  ;  and  the  hills  command  a  varied  prospect  over 
the  adjacent  country.  The  soil  along  the  banks  of  the 
streams  is  generally  gravelly,  and  on  the  other  arable 
lands  a  light  loam.  The  system  of  agriculture  has 
greatly  improved  within  the  last  few  years  ;  and  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  waste  has  been  drained,  and  ren- 
dered profitable,  under  the  auspices  of  an  agricultural 
society  for  the  west  of  Teviotdale,  formed  in  1S35,  un- 
der the  patronage  of  the  Duke  of  Buceleuch.  The  usual 
crops  are,  grain  of  every  kind,  with  potatoes  and  tur- 
nips. The  farm-buildings  are  comrnodiously  arranged  ; 
all  the  various  improvements  in  agricultural  implements 
have  been  adopted ;  and  great  attention  is  paid  to  the 
breeds  of  cattle  and  sheep,  of  which  great  numbers  are 
reared  in  the  pastoral  districts.  The  plantations  are 
well  managed,  and  in  a  thriving  state.  The  rocks  are 
composed  chiefly  of  greywaeke  ;  and  there  are  some 
quarries  of  stone,  of  good  quality  for  the  roads.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £12,923. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs   are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Jedburgh  and  synod  of 
Merse  and  Teviotdale.     The  minister's  stipend  is  £278, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £56  per  annum ; 
patron,  the  Duke  of  Buceleuch.    The  old  parish  church, 
erected  in  1764,  on  rising  ground  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  is  a  very  plain  structure   containing  704  sittings, 
a  number  totally  inadequate  to  the  population.     An  ele- 
gant new  church  has  been  erected  by  the  Duke.     The 
members  of  the  Free  Church  have  also  a  place  of  wor- 
ship ;    and  there  are  places  of  worship  for  the  United 
Associate   Synod,    Relief,    Independent    body,    Roman 
Catholics,  and  Society  of  Friends.    The  parochial  school 
is  under  the  management  of  a  rector  and  his  assistant, 
who  divide  between  them  a  salary  of  £33,  paid  by  the 
heritors,  £19,  the  proceeds  of  a  bequest  by  the  Rev. 
Alexander  Orrock  in  171  1,  and  the  fees,  averaging  £106, 
of  all  which  the  rector  has  three-fifths,  with  an  allowance 
of  £17  in  lieu  of  a  dwelling-house,  and  the  assistant 
two-fifths.     The  school  is  attended  by  about  220  chil- 
dren, who    are   instructed   in   the   Latin,    Greek,    and 
French  languages,  and  the  mathematics,  &c.     There  is 
also  a  school  in  the  hamlet  of  Newmiil,  endowed  by  the 
heritors  with  a  salary  of  £12  to  the  master,  in  addition 
to  his  fees,  which   average   £18  per  annum.     At  the 
upper  extremity  of  the  town  are  the  remains  of  a  moat, 
supposed  to  have  been  a  place  for  administering  justice  ; 
and  in  various  parts  of  the  parish  are  vestiges  of  border 
fortresses,  of  which  the  most  remarkable  is  that  called 
the  Black  Tower,  the  baronial  seat  of  the  lords  of  Drum- 
lanrig,  subsequently  the  residence  of  Anw,  Duchess  of 
539 


Buceleuch,  and  now  forming  part  of  the  Tower  inn. 
Another  is  attached  to  the  castle  of  Branxholme,  the 
ancient  residence  of  the  Buceleuch  family,  and  cele- 
brated by  Sir  Walter  Scott  in  his  Lay  of  the  Last  Min- 
strel. This  castle  was  burnt  by  the  Earl  of  Northum- 
berland, in  1532,  and  blown  up  with  gunpowder  during 
the  invasion  of  the  Earl  of  Surrey,  in  1570;  but  was 
partly  rebuilt,  according  to  an  inscription  on  the  walls, 
by  "Sir  W.  Scott,  of  Branxheim,  Knyte,"  in  1574,  and 
completed  by  "  Dame  Margaret  Douglas,  his  spous,"  in 
1576.  On  the  brow  of  a  hill  at  Goldielands,  about  two 
miles  distant,  is  a  third  border  fortress,  which  retains 
much  of  its  original  character,  and  is  said  to  have  been 
the  residence  of  the  Goldie  family.  An  ancient  vessel 
of  bronze,  with  a  handle  and  spout,  and  standing  on 
three  feet,  supposed  to  have  been  used  by  the  Romans 
for  sacrifice,  was  dug  up  a  few  years  since,  at  Reasknow, 
and  is  now  in  the  possession  of  James  Grieve,  Esq.,  of 
Branxholme  Braes,  who  has  also  a  coin  of  Alexan- 
der III.,  discovered  in  the  moss  at  Hislop,  and  in  a  very 
perfect  state.  On  the  removal  of  a  cairn  near  the  town, 
about  1S09,  several  large  stones  placed  edgewise,  and 
inclosing  a  human  skull  and  bones  of  large  size,  were 
found  ;  and  some  sepulchral  urns  of  rude  workmanship 
have  been  discovered  at  various  times. 

HAWKSTONE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  St. 
Madoes,  county  of  Perth,  2|  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from 
Errol ;  containing  51  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  parish,  and  is  one  of  the  only  two  hamlets, 
or,  as  they  are  sometimes  designated,  villages,  it  con- 
tains. Here  is  a  large  stone,  which  tradition  says  is 
the  stone  whereon  the  hawk  of  the  peasant  Hay,  the 
ancestor  of  the  noble  family  of  that  name,  alighted,  after 
it  had  performed  its  flight  round  the  land  that  was, 
consequently,  given  to  that  gallant  rustic,  in  reward  of 
his  services  performed  at  the  battle  of  Luncarty.  Hence 
the  name  of  the  place. — See  Redgorton. 

HAZELBANK,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Lesma- 
hago,  Upper  Ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  4  miles 
(N.  by  E.)  from  Lesmahago  ;  containing  238  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  the  parish,  on 
the  road  from  Lanark  to  Larkhall,  and  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Clyde,  which  here  separates  Lesmahago 
from  the  parish  of  Lanark. 

HEBRIDES,  or  Western  Islands,  a  series  of 
islands  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  about  300  in  number, 
of  which  S6  are  inhabited  ;  lying  at  various  distances 
from  the  western  coast  of  the  Highlands  ;  and  chiefly 
pertaining  to  the  counties  of  Argyll,  Inverness,  and 
Ross.  Of  the  early  history  of  these  islands  but  very 
little  is  known  ;  they  appear  to  have  been  anciently 
under  the  jurisdiction  of  petty  chieftains,  sometimes  in- 
dependent, and  at  others  tributary  to  the  kings  of 
Norway.  About  the  12th  century,  these  chieftains 
began  to  meditate  inroads  on  the  mainland:  in  1153, 
Somerled  invaded  Scotland,  and  made  an  attempt  to 
dethrone  Malcolm  IV.,  in  which  he  was  defeated  by  the 
Earl  of  Angus ;  and  on  a  subsequent  occasion  he  was 
slain  in  a  battle  near  Renfrew.  After  the  death  of 
Magnus,  son  of  Olave,  the  last  of  the  independent 
chieftains,  the  sovereignty  of  the  isles  was  ceded  to 
Alexander  III.,  by  treaty  signed  at  Perth  in  1266 ;  but, 
notwithstanding  that  treaty,  the  descendants  of  the  old 
chieftains  assumed  the  title  of  lords  of  the  isles,  and 
exercised  a  jurisdiction  irrespective  of  the  crown.     Of 

3  Z  2 


HE  L  E 


HELM 


these,  John,  lord  of  Cantyre,  married  a  daughter  of 
Robert  II. ;  and  from  this  alliance,  his  family  derived  a 
great  accession  of  power  and  influence,  Donald,  his 
son,  at  the  head  of  10,000  men,  ravaged  the  county  of 
Ross,  but  was  eventually  defeated,  in  1411.  James  I. 
waged  incessant  war  against  these  turbulent  chiefs, 
many  of  whom  he  took  prisoners,  and  hanged ;  and 
Donald,  lord  of  the  isles,  was  put  to  death  in  Ireland  ; 
but  it  was  not  till  the  reign  of  James  V.  that  the  lords 
were  brought  into  complete  subjection  to  the  Scottish 
crown.  Of  these  various  isles,  of  which  the  principal 
are  separately  described,  that  of  Lewis,  with  its  adjacent 
islands,  chiefly  belongs  to  the  county  of  Ross ;  Barra, 
Eig,  North  Uist,  South  Uist,  Skye,  and  smaller  isles,  to 
the  county  of  Inverness ;  and  Canna,  Muck,  Rum, 
Gigha  and  Cara,  Colonsay  and  Oronsay,  Tiree  and  Coll, 
Mull,  Jura,  and  Islay,  with  the  circumjacent  isles,  to  the 
county  of  Argyll. 

HECK,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Lochmaben, 
county  of  Dumfries,  1\  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Lock- 
erbie ;  containing  57  inhabitants.  It  lies  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Annan,  which  river  forms  the  eastern  boun- 
dary of  the  parish.  The  village  is  ancient,  and  is  one 
of  several  the  holm  ground  around  which  is  extremely 
rich  and  fertile.  Mention  is  made  of  the  place  in  royal 
warrants  under  the  sign-manual  of  James  VI.  and  of 
Charles  II. 

HEISKER,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  North  Uist, 
county  of  Inverness;  containing  39  inhabitants.  It  is 
one  of  the  Hebrides,  lying  about  two  miles  westward 
of  North  Uist ;  and  is  two  miles  in  length,  but  very 
narrow.  The  soil  is  sandy,  yielding  very  scanty  pas- 
ture at  any  time,  and  but  a  small  quantity  of  grain. 
The  isle  has  hitherto  derived  its  chief  value  from  its 
kelp  shores. 

HELENSBURGH,  a  town,  and  a  burgh  of  barony, 
chiefly  in  the  parish  of  Row,  but  partly  in  that  of 
Cardross,  county  of  Dumbarton  ;  containing  2229 
inhabitants,  of  whom  1672  are  in  the  burgh,  8  miles 
(N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Dumbarton.  This  place  is  situated 
on  the  north  shore  of  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Gareloch,  and  nearly  opposite  to  the  port  of 
Greenock,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Frith,  which  is  here 
about  four  miles  in  width.  It  was  founded  in  1777»  by 
Sir  James  Colquhoun,  in  honour  of  his  wife,  Lady 
Helen  Sutherland,  from  whom  it  derives  its  name  ;  and 
has  rapidly  grown  into  importance  as  a  fashionable 
watering-place,  and  a  favourite  resort  of  families  of  dis- 
tinction during  the  summer  months.  The  town  is 
regularly  built,  and  consists  partly  of  one  principal 
street,  extending  along  the  shore  for  more  than  a  mile, 
and  intersected  at  right  angles  by  numerous  other  well- 
formed  streets.  The  houses  are  of  handsome  appear- 
ance, and  interspersed  with  pleasing  villas  having 
grounds  tastefully  laid  out ;  the  surrounding  scenery, 
also,  is  agreeably  diversified.  On  the  opposite  shore 
of  the  Gareloch  are  the  elegant  mansion  and  pleasure- 
grounds  of  Roseneath ;  and  at  the  western  extremity  of 
the  town  is  Ardincaple,  the  beautiful  seat  of  the  Duke 
of  Argyll,  who  is  also  proprietor  of  Roseneath.  Along 
the  banks  of  the  Gareloch  are  various  interesting  pro- 
menades ;  and  to  the  north,  the  scenery  is  boldly 
marked  with  rugged  mountains  of  Highland  character. 
A  public  library,  containing  more  than  1000  volumes, 
and  a  news-room  amply  furnished  with  daily  journals 
540 


and  periodical  publications,  are  supported  by  subscrip- 
tion ;  there  are  two  commodious  hotels,  with  several 
inns,  and  also  numerous  lodging-houses  for  the  accom- 
modation of  visitors.  On  the  shore,  at  the  east  end  of 
the  town,  is  a  spacious  and  well-arranged  building, 
containing  hot  and  cold  baths,  with  every  requisite 
appendage. 

Facility  of  intercourse  is  provided  by  steamers  to 
Greenock,  which  make  nine  trips  daily ;  and  from 
Greenock  steamers  run  to  Glasgow,  touching  at  all 
the  intermediate  places  on  both  banks  of  the  Clyde. 
Between  Greenock  and  Glasgow  are  also  six  railway 
trains,  in  connexion  with  the  Helensburgh  boats  ;  and 
persons  leaving  Glasgow  by  these  trains  reach  Helens- 
burgh in  one  hour  and  a  half.  The  passage,  by  steam- 
boat, to  Glasgow,  is  about  three  hours,  and  to  Greenock 
a  quarter  of  an  hour.  The  quay,  constructed  in  1817, 
and  which,  at  high  water,  was  partly  obstructed,  has 
been  greatly  improved  ;  and  a  very  substantial  and  com- 
modious quay  has  been  made  about  a  mile  to  the  west 
of  the  town,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Gareloch.  The 
town  was  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony  by  charter 
granted  in  1802  to  Sir  James  Colquhoun,  under  whom, 
as  superior,  the  government  is  vested  in  a  provost,  two 
bailies,  and  four  councillors,  elected  annually  by  the 
burgesses  from  their  own  body,  consisting  of  all  inha- 
bitants who  are  leaseholders  of  houses  and  lands  under 
the  superior.  A  weekly  market  on  Thursday,  and  four 
annual  fairs,  of  two  days  each,  for  horses,  cattle,  and 
other  merchandise,  on  the  second  Tuesday  in  February, 
the  1st  June,  the  6th  August,  and  the  12th  November, 
are  allowed  by  charter ;  but  they  are  not  much  fre- 
quented. The  late  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Helensburgh 
was  separated  from  the  parish  of  Row,  by  act  of  the 
presbytery,  in  1839,  and  contained  a  population  of  1899. 
The  church  was  originally  built  for  a  congregation  of 
Seceders,  in  1824,  and,  on  their  re-union  to  the  Esta- 
blished Church,  was  made  parochial ;  it  passed,  how- 
ever, in  1843,  into  the  hands  of  members  of  the 
Free  Church,  the  minister  and  congregation  joining 
in  the  great  secession  of  that  year.  The  building  con- 
tains 600  sittings  ;  and  there  is  also  an  Independent 
meeting-house  in  the  town.  A  school  is  partly  sup- 
ported by  the  Kirk  Session ;  and  a  grant  has  been 
given  by  government  towards  the  erection  of  a  paro- 
chial school.  Mr.  Henry  Bell,  who  first  successfully 
applied  the  steam-engine  to  navigation,  resided  at  this 
place  from  1804  till  his  decease  in  1830;  he  built 
his  first  steam-boat,  the  Comet,  at  Port-Glasgow,  in 
1S12,  and  made  his  first  passage  across  the  Clyde  to 
Helensburgh. 

HELESAY,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Barra, 
county  of  Inverness  ;  containing  108  inhabitants.  It 
is  one  of  a  numerous  group  of  isles  that  lie  in  the 
strait  between  Barra  and  South  Uist,  from  the  former 
of  which  it  is  about  five  miles  distant.  On  the  west  of 
the  island  is  Ottervore  Sound. 

HELMSDALE,  a  fishing-village,  in  the  parish  of 
Loth,  county  of  Sutherland,  17  miles  (N.  E.)  from 
Golspie;  containing  526  inhabitants.  This  village  is 
situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river  Helmsdale,  near 
its  influx  into  the  Moray  Frith.  It  consists  chiefly  of 
neatly-built  houses  inhabited  by  persons  engaged  in  the 
fisheries,  and  is  connected  with  the  western  portion  of 
the  parish  by  a  handsome  bridge  of  two  arches,  erected 


H  E  RI 


H  E  R  I 


over  the  Helmsdale,  at  an  expense  of  £2200,  by  the 
parliamentary  commissioners,  in  1S11.  It  has  long 
been  celebrated  for  its  valuable  salmon-fisheries  on  the 
river,  belonging  to  the  Duke  of  Sutherland,  and  which 
are  carefully  managed  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
proprietor's  agents  :  the  fish,  which  are  of  superior  size 
and  flavour,  are  sent  packed  in  ice  to  the  London 
market,  where  they  are  purchased  by  contract.  The 
herring-fishery,  in  the  Frith,  is  also  very  extensive ; 
houses  for  curing  the  herrings  have  been  built  on  a 
principle  well  adapted  for  the  purpose ;  and  since  the 
year  1S15,  the  quantity  cured  at  this  place  has  gradually 
increased  from  about  5000  to  46,000  barrels  annually, 
of  which  the  whole  are  exported  to  the  continent  and 
to  Ireland.  The  harbour  was  greatly  improved  by 
the  erection  of  a  substantial  pier  by  the  proprietor,  at  a 
cost  of  £1600,  in  1S18,  since  which  time  additional 
sums  have  been  expended ;  and  still  further  improve- 
ments are  in  contemplation.  The  fishery  affords  em- 
ployment to  a  very  considerable  number  of  coopers,  and 
a  steam-mill  has  been  erected  for  sawing  the  staves  of 
the  barrels ;  there  are  also  several  boat-builders  ;  and 
various  handicraft  trades  are  carried  on  for  the  supply 
of  the  inhabitants.  A  post-office  has  been  established, 
which  has  a  daily  delivery  ;  and  facility  of  communica- 
tion is  afforded  by  the  parliamentary  road  from  Dun- 
robin,  in  the  parish  of  Golspie,  to  the  Ord  of  Caithness  ; 
by  a  good  road  from  the  village,  through  the  strath  of 
Kildonan,  to  the  North  Sea ;  and  by  vessels  from  dif- 
ferent ports  of  England  and  Ireland,  which  touch  at 
the  harbour.  A  handsome  church  has  recently  been 
erected  in  the  village  by  the  Duke  of  Sutherland,  in 
which  a  minister  of  the  Establishment  officiates  occa- 
sionally ;  and  there  is  a  school  supported  ;  also  a  large 
place  of  worship  in  connexion  with  the  Free  Church, 
opened  in  February,  1S45. 

HERBERTSHIRE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Duni- 
pace,  county  of  Stirling,  7  miles  (W.  N.  W.)  from 
Falkirk;  containing  "61  inhabitants.  This  village,  some- 
times called  Milton,  is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Carron,  over  which  is  a  handsome  bridge  of  three  arches, 
connecting  it  with  the  village  of  Denny.  The  inhabit- 
ants are  chiefly  engaged  in  the  printing  of  calico,  which 
was  first  established  here  in  1/S3,  and  is  conducted  on 
an  extensive  scale,  in  works  belonging  to  Charles  Carnie, 
Esq.,  who  has  a  residence  near  the  village.  The  num- 
ber of  persons  employed  in  this  establishment  is  about 
400,  of  whom  120  are  females  ;  the  process  is  partly 
carried  on  by  machiner)'  of  ingenious  construction,  and 
some  of  the  machines  will  imprint  four  different  colours 
at  the  same  time. 

HERIOT,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Edinburgh  ; 
containing,  with  the  hamlets  of  Fala-Hill  Inn,  Robert- 
son, and  Broomieknowe,  355  inhabitants.  The  history 
of  this  parish  is  of  little  interest,  except  as  connected 
with  the  various  proprietors  of  its  lands  and  ecclesiasti- 
cal revenues.  The  church  was  formerly  of  considerable 
value  ;  and  its  patrouage,  in  the  12th  and  13th  centu- 
ries, belonged  to  Roger  de  Quincy,  then  lord  of  the 
manor,  and  constable  of  Scotland,  who  is  supposed  to 
have  derived  it  from  the  lords  of  Galloway,  and  these 
latter  from  the  Morvilles.  In  portioning  out  his  estates 
among  his  three  daughters,  De  Quincy  gave  Heriot  to 
Elena,  the  youngest,  who  married  La  Touche,  an  Eng- 
lish baron,  and  who  afterwards  granted  the  church  of 
541 


"  Heryeth,"  as  it  was  then  called,  to  the  monastery  of 
Newbottle,  which  gift  was  confirmed  by  a  bull  of  pope 
Nicholas,  and  by  Fraser,  Bishop  of  St.  Andrew's,  the 
diocesan.  In  1309,  William  Blair,  the  incumbent,  re- 
signed his  vicarage  to  Bishop  Lamberton,  who  imme- 
diately gave  the  vicarage  revenues  to  the  monks  of  New- 
bottle,  who  already  possessed  the  rectory.  At  the  time 
of  the  Reformation,  these  monks  held  both  the  church 
and  lands  of  Heryeth.  The  property  soon  afterwards 
came  into  the  hands  of  Mark  Kerr,  commendator  of 
Newbottle,  to  whose  heir  it  regularly  descended  ;  and 
the  lands  then  successively  passed  to  Robert,  second 
earl  of  Lothian,  by  whom  they  were  sold  to  Walter 
Hay,  to  whose  son  they  fell  in  1643.  On  the  failure  of 
this  family  in  1692,  by  the  death  of  lord  Borthwick,  the 
barony  of  Heriot  came  to  a  son  of  Lord  Stair,  from  whom 
it  descended,  through  the  late  dowager  lady  Dalrymple, 
to  her  eldest  son,  the  Earl  of  Stair,  present  proprietor  of 
the  lands. 

The  parish,  which  is  of  oblong  form,  is  about  six  and 
a  half  miles  long,  and  three  and  three-quarters  broad, 
and  contains  15,000  acres.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north- 
west by  Temple  and  Borthwick  parishes ;  on  the  east 
by  Stow,  and  part  of  Fala ;  and  on  the  south  by  Inner- 
leithen, in  Peeblesshire.  It  is  altogether  hilly,  and  a 
pastoral  parish,  only  about  one-tenth  of  the  land  being 
arable.  The  ground  rises  in  some  parts  to  a  great  eleva- 
tion, particularly  in  the  south-east,  where  is  the  hill  of 
Dewar,  about  1654  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea;  and 
also  in  the  south-west,  where  Blackup  Scars,  which  is 
the  highest  hill,  rises  1000  feet  above  the  sea  at  its  base, 
and  2193  at  its  summit.  These  hills  are  part  of  the 
Moorfoot  range,  which  is  a  branch  of  the  Lammermoor 
and  Soutra,  stretching  from  the  north-east  towards 
Peebles  on  the  south-west.  A  great  variety  of  rare 
plants  is  to  be  found,  affording,  especially  in  the  months 
of  August  and  September,  a  rich  field  for  botanical  re- 
search. The  higher  grounds  are  mostly  bare  of  trees, 
there  being,  indeed,  a  great  want  of  plantations  in  every 
part  of  the  parish.  The  climate,  from  the  elevated  situa- 
tion of  the  district,  and  the  hilly  character  of  the  sur- 
face, is  bleak  and  piercing,  though  salubrious.  The 
Heriot  water  rises  in  the  south-west  extremity  of  the 
parish,  and,  after  winding  in  its  course  for  five  miles, 
unites  with  the  Gala  at  the  eastern  boundary,  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  below  the  church.  This  stream,  which 
is  subject  to  frequent  swellings,  rose  in  August  1S37  to 
an  unusual  height,  destroying  dykes  and  walls,  and 
bringing  desolation  to  the  property  within  the  range  of 
its  violence.  The  Gala  water  has  its  source  in  the  north, 
and,  after  a  course  of  about  two  miles,  quits  the  parish 
near  its  junction  with  the  Heriot. 

The  soil  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers  is  rich  and  fertile, 
and  capable  of  producing  the  finest  crops,  though  the 
severity  of  the  climate  is  a  great  obstacle  to  the  opera- 
tions of  husbandry.  The  wheat  grown  is  inconsiderable, 
and  barley  is  now  substituted  in  the  place  of  bear.  The 
number  of  acres  under  pasture  is  upwards  of  12,000,  of 
which  about  1600  are  considered  susceptible  of  profit- 
able cultivation.  Besides  the  grain,  potatoes  and  tur- 
nips of  good  quality  are  raised.  The  parish,  however, 
is  chiefly  celebrated  for  its  sheep  and  cattle,  the  former, 
which  are  partly  of  the  Cheviot  kind,  being  reared  in  very 
large  numbers  ;  about  766O  sheep  are  regularly  kept, 
and  the  lambs  fetch  the  highest  prices.     Of  the  small 


PI  I  G  H 


HO  B  K 


quantity  of  wood  grown,  the  beech,  larch,  and  plane 
seem  best  adapted  to  the  soil.  There  are  numerous  en- 
closures, and  these  of  a  very  superior  kind ;  and  the 
farm-steadings  throughout  the  parish  are  generally  in  a 
pretty  fair  state.  The  farms  vary  in  extent  from  50  to 
2000  acres.  There  is  no  village  :  the  chief  communi- 
cation of  the  inhabitants  is  with  Dalkeith,  nine  miles 
distant.  About  three  miles  of  good  turnpike  road  run 
through  the  parish  ;  but  the  other  roads  belonging  to 
the  locality  are  indifferent,  and  there  are  no  facilities  of 
this  kind  in  the  higher  lands  for  the  purpose  of  trans- 
porting lime  and  other  manure,  the  extensive  applica- 
tion of  which,  for  the  improvement  of  the  poorer  grounds, 
is  thus  prevented.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  Heriot 
is  £3854.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  subject  to  the 
presbytery  of  Dalkeith  and  s)'nodof  Lothian  and  Tweed- 
dale,  and  the  patronage  is  vested  in  the  Earl  of  Stair. 
The  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £15S,  of  which  about  a 
fifth  is  received  from  the  Exchequer,  with  a  manse, 
built  in  1793,  and  repaired  in  1S29,  and  a  fine  garden  of 
the  best  soil ;  adjoining  it  is  a  glebe  of  twenty  acres  of 
land,  valued  at  £30  per  annum.  The  church  is  situated 
about  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  accommodates  200 
persons  with  sittings;  it  was  rebuilt  in  1S04,  and  has 
since  undergone  extensive  repairs,  by  which  it  has  been 
rendered  convenient  and  comfortable.  A  parochial 
school  is  supported,  the  master  of  which  has  a  salary  of 
£34,  with  a  house,  and  about  £25  fees.  There  is  also  a 
parochial  library.  The  relics  of  antiquity  merely  com- 
prise some  camps,  consisting  of  two  or  three  concentric 
circles,  and  a  gateway,  the  history  of  which  is  unknown. 

HERMISTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Currie, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  If  mile  (N.  by  W.)  from  Currie; 
containing  164  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  road 
from  Edinburgh  to  East  Calder,  which  intersects  the 
northern  part  of  the  parish  ;  and  is  the  third  village  of 
Currie  in  extent  and  population. 

HERMITRAY,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Harris, 
island  of  Lewis,  county  of  Inverness  ;  containing 
8  inhabitants.  This  is  one  of  a  group  of  isles  situated 
in  the  sound  of  Harris,  and  east  of  the  island  of 
Bernera,  A  fishing  statioii  was  established  here  by 
Charles  I. 

HERRIOTFIELD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Mon- 
zie,  county  of  Perth  ;   containing  106  inhabitants. 

HESTON,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Rerrick,  stew- 
artry  of  Kirkcudbright.  It  is  a  small  island,  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Urr,  -which  discharges  itself 
into  the  Solway  Frith.  Standing  high  out  of  the  water, 
it  affords  good  shelter  to  Auchencairn  bay,  where  is  a 
safe  and  commodious  anchorage  for  small  shipping. 
The  island  is  of  smooth  surface,  and  pastures  sheep. 

HIETON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Roxburgh, 
district  of  Kelso,  county  of  Roxburgh,  1  mile  (E.  by 
S.)  from  Kelso ;  containing  214  inhabitants.  This  vil- 
lage is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  turnpike-road  leading 
from  Kelso  to  Jedburgh,  and  is  inhabited  chiefly  by 
persons  employed  in  agriculture  ;  the  surrounding  sce- 
nery is  varied,  and  the  adjacent  lands  in  a  good  state  of 
cultivation.     There  is  a  parochial  school  here. 

HIGHTAE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Lochmaben, 
county  of  Dumfries,  2§  miles  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from 
Lockerbie;  containing  436  inhabitants.  It  is  situated 
in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  and  a  short  distance 
from  the  river  Annan,  which  separates  Lochmaben  fr  >m 
542 


the  parish  of  Dryfesdale.  This  is  one  of  the  villages  de- 
nominated the  "Four  Towns,"  the  lands  around  which 
being  portions  of  the  original  royal  domains  granted  by 
Robert  Bruce  in  small  plots  to  the  domestic  servants  of 
Lochmaben  Castle,  are  still  held  without  any  written 
title  other  than  a  transference,  by  a  tenant,  of  his  right 
to  a  successor.  The  holm  ground  attached  to  these 
villages,  of  which  this  is  the  largest,  is  uncommonly 
rich  and  fertile.  Loch  Hightae,  in  the  vicinity,  is  a 
fine  lake  of  fifty-two  acres,  abounding  in  perch,  pike, 
trout,  bream,  roach,  and  other  fish.  The  Cameronians 
have  a  place  of  worship,  built  in  1766,  originally  for  a 
Relief  congregation  ;  and  a  school  is  endowed  with  the 
interest  of  £100,  left  by  Mr.  James  Richardson  in  1726. 
— See  Lochmaben. 

HILDASAY,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Tingwall, 
county  of  Shetland.  It  is  of  small  extent,  and  lies 
near  the  south  coast  of  the  main  land  of  Shetland,  and 
nearly  parallel  with  Skelda  Ness. 

HlLLEND,  a  village,  chiefly  in  the  parish  of  Inver- 
keithing,  and  partly  in  that  of  Dalgety,  district  of 
Dunfermline,  county  of  Fife,  if  mile  (N.  E.  by  E.) 
from  In verkei thing  ;  containing  2S1  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  on  the  road  from  Inverkeithing  to  Aberdour, 
and  is  of  neat  appearance.  A  small  stream  flows  a  little 
to  the  north  of  the  village. 

HILLHEAD,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Cockpen, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  \  a  mile  (S.  E.)  from  Lasswade  ; 
containing  76  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish,  on  the  road  from  Lasswade  to 
Cockpen  ;  and  in  its  neighbourhood  are  several  coal- 
mines. The  scenery  around  is  embellished  with  some 
good  mansions. 

HILLSWICK,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  North- 
mavine,  county  of  Shetland  ;  containing  211  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  situated  near  Hillswick  ness,  and  westward 
of  Hillswick  creek,  which  opens  into  St.  Magnus'  bay, 
on  the  north  side  of  Shetland.  The  creek  affords  safe 
and  excellent  anchorage  for  any  number  of  vessels,  and 
of  any  burthen,  having  good  moorings  of  from  seven  to 
twenty  fathoms ;  there  is  also  a  large  and  convenient 
beach  for  drying  fish,  with  warehouses,  and  salt  and 
fish  cellars.  Numerous  voes  indent  this  part  of  the 
coast. 

HILLYLAND,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Tibber- 
more,  county  of  Perth  ;   containing  202  inhabitants. 

HILTON,  county  of  Berwick. — See  Whitsome. 

HILTON,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  and  county  of 
Inverness  ;   containing  64  inhabitants. 

HILTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Fearn, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty,  10  miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from 
Tain;  containing  310  inhabitants.  This  is  a  fishing 
village,  lying  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Moray  Frith  : 
the  fishing  is  chiefly  of  grey  fish  and  herrings,  and  is 
carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent,  in  connexion  with 
the  village  of  Balintore,  about  half  a  mile  southward. 
The  coast  between  the  two  places  is  level  and  sandy ; 
at  Hiltown,  however,  it  becomes  high  and  rocky. 

HOBKIRK,  or  HOPEKIRK,  a  parish,  in  the  dis- 
trict of  Jedburgh,  county  of  Roxburgh,  8  miles  (E. 
S.  E.)  from  Hawick  ;  containing  776  inhabitants.  This 
parish,  which  is  not  distinguished  by  any  events  of  his- 
torical importance,  appears  to  have  derived  its  name 
from  the  situation  of  its  church.  It  is  eleven  miles  in 
length,  from  north  to  south,  and  about  three  miles  in 


HOB  K 


HODD 


breadth ;  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parishes 
of  Cavers  and  Bedrule,  on  the  east  by  the  parish  of 
Sonthdean  and  a  small  part  of  that  of  Castleton,  on  the 
south  by  Castleton,  and  on  the  west  by  Kirkton  and 
Cavers.  The  surface  is  strikingly  varied;  in  the  south- 
ern extremity  is  a  chain  of  hills  forming  part  of  the 
Cheviot  range,  and  on  the  northern  boundary  is  the 
Rubberslaw  hill,  which  has  an  elevation  of  1420  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Between  this  hill  and  the 
southern  range  is  the  level  valley  of  the  river  Rule,  on 
the  east  bank  of  which  is  the  beautiful  hill  of  Bon- 
ehester,  rising  in  a  spherical  form  to  a  height  of  1260 
feet,  and  covered  with  rich  verdure  to  its  summit.  The 
river  rises  in  the  southern  range  of  hills,  and,  flowing 
through  the  whole  length  of  the  parish,  falls  into  the 
Teviot  about  two  miles  from  its  northern  extremity, 
after  a  course  of  nearly  thirteen  miles,  in  which  it  has 
been  augmented  by  many  streams  descending  from  the 
higher  grounds.  There  are  numerous  springs  in  various 
parts,  affording  an  abundant  supply  of  excellent  water ; 
and  some  few  patches  of  marsh  and  bog.  The  river, 
with  its  valley,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  and  most  seques- 
tered in  the  south  of  Scotland  ;  it  abounds  with  trout, 
and  is  much  frequented  by  anglers  ;  and  the  smaller 
streams  also  contain  trout  and  other  fish,  but  they  are 
generally  swept  with  nets. 

The  soil  in  some  parts  is  a  reddish  clay,  in  which 
are  found  numerous  boulders  of  stone  ;  in  some  places 
heathy,  and  in  others  moss.  The  whole  number  of 
acres  is  estimated  at  19,000,  of  which  nearly  3500 
are  arable,  about  900  in  wood  and  plantations,  and  the 
remainder  meadow,  pasture,  and  waste  land.  The  crops 
are,  oats,  peas,  wheat,  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the 
system  of  agriculture  is  improved ;  the  lands  have  been 
drained  and  partly  inclosed,  and  a  considerable  portion 
of  waste  has  been  reclaimed  and  brought  into  cultivation. 
The  fences  are  partly  of  paling,  for  which  the  thinnings 
of  the  woods  afford  ample  materials,  and  partly  of  thorn 
hedges,  &c.  ;  the  old  farm-houses  are  indifferent,  but 
improvement  is  rapidly  advancing,  and  all  the  buildings 
of  modern  erection  are  substantial  and  commodious. 
Much  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  live  stock. 
About  10,000  sheep,  mostly  of  the  Cheviot,  with  a  cross 
of  the  Leicestershire  breed,  are  fed  in  the  pastures ; 
and  there  are  also  a  few  of  the  Merino  breed  :  the 
quantity  of  wool  produced  annually  is  1500  stones. 
Above  300  head  of  young  cattle,  also,  are  reared  every 
year,  chiefly  of  the  short-horned  breed.  The  woods 
consist  of  birch,  hazel,  alder,  beech,  oak,  and  elm,  which 
on  some  of  the  lands  are  regularly  thinned;  but  in  the 
other  lands  less  attention  has  been  paid,  and  consider- 
able quantities  of  valuable  timber  might  be  cut  down, 
with  great  benefit  to  the  remaining  trees.  The  planta- 
tions, which  are  chiefly  larch  and  Scotch  and  sprnce 
firs,  are  in  a  flourishing  condition,  and  are  rapidly  in- 
creasing in  extent.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £6269.  The  substrata  are  mainly  greywacke, 
sandstone,  and  limestone,  and,  on  the  higher  parts  of 
the  hills,  greenstone  of  several  varieties.  The  sandstone 
and  limestone  are  quarried  for  building  purposes  and 
for  manure  ;  and  a  stratum  of  agate  or  coarse  jasper  is 
found  at  Robertslin,  of  which  various  ornaments  are 
made.  There  are  no  villages  in  the  parish,  and  but  two 
small  hamlets,  each  of  six  or  eight  dwellings.  Facility 
of  communication  is  afforded  with  the  neighbouring 
543 


market-towns  by  roads  kept  in  excellent  order,  and  by 
the  turnpike-road  from  Hawick  to  Newcastle,  and  that 
from  Jedburgh  to  Castleton,  both  which  pass  for  several 
miles  through  the  parish. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Jedburgh  and  synod  of  Merse 
and  Teviotdale  ;  and  the  patronage  is  in  the  Crown. 
The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £206  :  the  manse, 
which  has  been  thoroughly  repaired  within  the  last  few 
years,  is  a  tolerably  good  residence,  and  the  glebe  com- 
prises fifteen  acres,  with  half  the  glebe  of  the  suppressed 
parish  of  Abbotrule,  together  about  twenty-four  acres, 
valued  at  £40  per  annum.  The  church,  erected  in  1/00, 
and  repaired  in  1*77,  and  in  other  years,  is  well  situated, 
but  a  very  inconvenient  edifice,  adapted  for  a  congre- 
gation of  400  persons  :  the  floor,  as  in  most  ancient 
churches,  is  below  the  level  of  the  churchyard.  The 
parochial  school  affords  education  to  about  eighty  chil- 
dren ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £32.  10.,  with  an 
allowance  for  deficiency  of  garden  ground,  and  a  house, 
and  the  fees  average  £24  per  annum.  A  subscription 
library  has  been  established,  and  meets  with  due  en- 
couragement. A  bequest  of  £100  was  made  some  time 
since  by  Lady  Yester ;  the  interest  is  divided  between 
the  heritors  for  charitable  purposes,  and  the  school- 
master. On  Bonchester  hill  are  considerable  remains 
of  ancient  fortifications,  of  which  some  are  square,  and 
others  of  circular  form,  intersected  also  by  lines  of 
more  modern  construction.  This  hill,  which  is  admir- 
ably adapted  for  the  site  of  a  camp,  is  supposed  to  have 
derived  its  name  from  its  having  been  occupied  by  the 
Romans  for  that  purpose.  Querns,  arrow  heads,  and 
various  other  relics  of  antiquity  have  been  found  here. 
On  Rubberslaw  and  other  heights  are  also  traces  of 
camps ;  and  ashes  and  human  bones,  and  urns,  have 
been  frequently  discovered.  Two  cairns  were  lately  re- 
moved, which  are  thought  to  have  been  raised  over  the 
remains  of  warriors  slain  in  some  battle  that  occurred 
near  the  spot ;  one  of  these  was  situated  on  the  eastern 
side  of  Rubberslaw,  and  the  other  at  Fodderlee.  Of  a 
battle  at  the  latter  place,  there  are  some  traditionary 
records  ;  but  nothing  is  recorded  respecting  the  former. 
At  Langraw,  a  great  quantity  of  burnt  bones  and  ashes 
have  been  discovered,  within  a  circular  inclosure  about 
eighteen  feet  in  diameter.  On  their  removal,  were 
found,  in  the  sandstone  underneath,  four  holes,  in  which 
upright  poles  had  been  fixed,  and  secured  by  stones 
wedged  in  from  above  ;  but  of  the  purpose  of  the  erec- 
tion of  these,  or  the  use  to  which  they  were  applied, 
nothing  is  known.  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  passed 
through  this  parish  on  her  route  from  Jedburgh  to  Her- 
mitage Castle,  and,  near  its  extremity,  was  obstructed 
by  a  bog,  which  has  been  ever  since  called  the  "  Queen's 
Mire."  Thomson,  the  poet,  resided,  or  frequently  visited, 
here,  and  wrote  his  first  sketch  of  Winter  from  the  view 
of  Rubberslaw^. 

HODDAM,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dumfries, 
6  miles  (N.)  from  Annan ;  containing,  with  the  village 
of  Ecclesfechan,  1627  inhabitants.  This  parish  com- 
prehends the  ancient  parishes  of  Hoddam,  Luce,  and 
Ecclesfechan,  which  were  united  in  1609.  Hoddam,  in 
ancient  charters,  is  spelt  Hodholm  and  Hodolm,  signi- 
fying "the  head  of  the  holm,''  and  is  supposed  to  have 
derived  that  appellation  from  its  situation  on  the  bank 
of  the  river  Annan,  where  the   ground  is  flat  and  rich, 


H  OD  D 


HOLM 


and  what  is  usually  called  holm  land.  The  name  of  Luce 
is  said  to  be  derived  from  the  luxuriance  of  the  herbage; 
and  that  of  Ecclesfechan  from  the  Latin  word  Ecclesia, 
"  a  church,"  and  an  Irish  abbot  called  Fechan,  who  is 
thought  to  have  lived  in  this  part  about  the  seventh 
century.  When  the  three  parishes  were  united,  a  new 
church  was  built  in  a  central  situation,  and  the  old 
churches  gradually  fell  to  decay.  Hall-Guards,  in  the 
parish,  was  the  site  of  the  old  castle  of  Hoddam,  which 
is  considered  to  have  been  the  seat  of  a  branch  of  the 
family  of  Bruce ;  but  the  fortress  was  demolished  some 
centuries  ago,  in  compliance  with  the  terms  of  a  border 
treaty.  It  was  rebuilt  by  John,  Lord  Herries  ;  but 
one  of  that  family  afterwards  erected  a  castle  in  a  more 
favourable  situation,  at  Cummertrees,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Annan,  and  the  seat  in  this  parish  was  then 
neglected. 

The  parish  is  about  five  miles  long,  and  three  and  a 
half  broad,  and  contains  7158  acres.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Tundergarth ;  on  the  south  and  south- 
west by  the  river  Annan  ;  on  the  east  by  Middlebie 
parish ;  and  on  the  west  by  St.  Mango.  It  is  included 
in  the  district  of  Annandale,  and  is  remarkable  for 
the  beauty  of  its  scenery,  which  is  interestingly  diver- 
sified with  good  grounds,  wood,  and  water.  The  surface 
consists  for  the  most  part  of  an  extensive  plain,  sur- 
rounded by  gently  swelling  hills  in  the  highest  state  of 
cultivation,  the  whole  intersected  by  thriving  hedges, 
and  ornamented  with  groups  of  flourishing  plantations. 
The  highest  land  is  the  hill  of  Burnswark,  740  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  which  commands  views 
of  several  English  counties,  of  the  Isle  of  Man,  and,  in 
very  fine  weather,  of  the  mountainous  part  of  York- 
shire. The  streams  are,  the  Annan,  the  Milk,  and  the 
Mein,  the  last  of  which,  however,  is  only  a  rivulet.  The 
Annan  is  about  100  feet  wide,  and  has  numerous  pools 
fifteen  or  sixteen  feet  deep ;  it  contains  salmon  and 
trout,  but  the  fish  have  become  much  less  plentiful  since 
the  use  of  lime  manure,  which,  when  washed  off  the 
lands  by  floods  or  rains,  strongly  impregnates  the 
waters.  The  Milk,  touching  the  parish  on  the  south- 
west, is  a  good  trout  stream,  and  also  abounds  with 
small  fish.  The  Mein,  which  is  a  tributary  to  the 
Annan,  frequently  changes  its  channel,  bringing  con- 
siderable havoc  to  the  lands  through  which  it  takes 
its  course. 

The  soil  on  the  holm  lands  is  a  deep  loam,  and  ex- 
ceedingly fertile  ;  the  great  plain  in  the  heart  of  the 
parish  is  of  a  light  gravelly  soil,  and  also  yields  fine 
crops.  The  high  ground  in  the  north,  however,  is 
clayey,  resting  upon  a  cold  tilly  subsoil  and  a  copper 
rock,  and  is  very  inferior  to  the  lands  below.  About 
6430  acres  are  under  cultivation  ;  730  are  hill  pasture, 
and  upwards  of  sixty  wood.  All  kinds  of  grain  are 
produced,  though  the  quantity  of  wheat  bears  no  pro- 
portion to  the  oats  and  barley ;  a  few  turnips  and 
large  quantities  of  potatoes  are  raised,  and  almost  every 
cottager  keeps  one  or  two  hogs,  which  are  fed  to  some 
extent  upon  the  latter  root.  The  best  system  of  hus- 
bandry is  adopted  ;  and  all  the  arable  land  being  good, 
and  a  considerable  proportion  of  superior  quality,  the 
crops  are  in  general  very  valuable.  The  lands  have 
been  entirely  inclosed,  within  the  last  fifty  years,  with 
good  fences.  The  substrata  consist  chiefly  of  sand- 
stone and  limestone,  with  slate-clay,  clay-ironstone,  and 
544 


amygdaloid.  No  workable  coal  has  yet  been  discovered ; 
but  some  attempts  recently  made  have  excited  a  hope 
that  it  will  eventually  be  found.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  Hoddam  is  £5209.  The  turnpike-road  from 
Lockerbie  to  Longtown  runs  through  the  parish,  in 
addition  to  which  there  are  five  cross  roads.  A  large 
and  beautiful  stone  bridge  has  been  erected  over  the 
Annan,  and  several  over  the  Mein  :  these,  as  well  as 
the  roads  and  fences  throughout  the  parish,  are  kept  in 
good  order.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by 
the  presbytery  of  Annan  and  synod  of  Dumfries  ;  alter- 
nate patrons,  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  and  the  Sharpe 
family.  The  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £259,  with  a 
superior  manse,  and  three  glebes  valued  at  £43.  10.  a 
year.  The  church,  built  in  1S17,  and  standing  about 
a  mile  from  Ecclesfechan,  is  comfortably  fitted  up,  and 
seats  561  persons.  The  United  Secession  have  a  place 
of  worship  ;  and  there  is  a  parochial  school,  the  master 
of  which  receives  £35  per  annum,  with  about  £12  fees. 
At  Burnswark,  in  the  northern  extremity  of  the  parish, 
is  one  of  the  most  entire  Roman  encampments  in  the 
kingdom  ;  it  was  formed  by  Agricola  ;  and  a  number  of 
altar-pieces,  arms,  &c,  have  been  found  in  its  vicinity. 
Carlyle,  author  of  the  History  of  the  French  Revolution, 
was  born  in  the  parish. — See  Ecclesfechan. 

HOLBURN,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Old  Machar,  city,  district,  and  county  of 
Aberdeen  ;  containing  3757  inhabitants.  This  is 
partly  a  rural,  and  partly  a  town,  district.  A  consi- 
derable portion  of  the  rural  population  may  be  said  to 
be  congregated  in  three  villages,  the  rest  being  dispersed 
over  the  district  generally,  which  comprises  an  extent 
of  more  than  two  and  a  half  square  miles.  The  church, 
which  was  built  by  subscription,  in  1836,  at  a  cost  of 
£1S5S.  18.  9.,  and  opened  for  divine  service  in  Sep- 
tember, 1S37,  stands  at  the  junction  of  the  principal 
roads  in  this  portion  of  Old  Machar,  and  is  a  neat 
edifice  containing  1332  sittings.  The  stipend  of  the 
minister  is  £1S0,  derived  from  seat-rents,  and  of  which 
£100  are  secured  by  bond.  Holburn  is  one  of  four 
quoad  sacra  parishes  which  were  formed  by  an  act  of 
the  General  Assembly,  in  1S34,  out  of  the  parish  of  Old 
Machar,  and  were  lately  abolished. 

HOLEKETTLE-BRIDGE,  a  village,  in  the  parish 
of  Kettle,  district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife,  1  mile 
(S.  W.)  from  Kettle ;  containing  288  inhabitants.  It 
lies  in  the  north-western  part  of  the  parish,  on  the 
high  road  from  Pitlessie  to  Leslie ;  and  is  a  village  of 
comparatively  recent  growth,  and  neatly  built. 

HOLLEE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kirkpatrick- 
Fleming,  county  of  Dumfries;  containing  114  in- 
habitants. 

HOLM  and  PAPLAY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Orkney,  8  miles  (S.  E.  by  E.)  from  Kirkwall ;  containing, 
with  the  island  of  Lambholm  and  the  village  of  St. 
Mary,  866  inhabitants.  This  parish,  which  is  situated 
on  the  south-eastern  portion  of  the  main  land,  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  the  parishes  of  Kirkwall  and  St.  An- 
drew's, on  the  east  by  the  German  Ocean,  on  the  west 
by  Scalpa  Flow,  and  on  the  south  by  Holm  Sound.  It 
is  about  six  miles  in  length,  and  varies  from  one  mile  to 
two  miles  in  breadth.  The  coast  is  not  very  elevated  : 
the  principal  headlands  are,  Roseness,  on  the  southern 
extremity  of  Paplay,  at  the  eastern  entrance  of  the 
sound  ;   Howquoy,  at  the  western  entrance  ;  and  Skel- 


II  OLM 


HOLY 


daquoy  Point,  stretching  for  almost  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  south,  and  forming  the  western  boundary  of 
Holm  Sound  bay.  The  sound,  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
which  is  the  small  but  picturesque  island  of  Lambholm, 
is  an  important  passage  from  the  eastern  to  the  western 
coasts,  through  which  vessels  pass  with  greater  security, 
and  by  a  shorter  line,  than  either  by  the  Caledonian 
canal  or  Pentland  Frith  ;  it  affords,  also,  safe  anchorage 
for  vessels  which  may  have  to  wait  for  the  tide.  The 
surface  towards  the  south  is  low,  but  rises  gradually 
towards  the  north,  terminating  in  a  range  of  hills  of 
sufficient  elevation  to  shelter  the  lands  from  the  north 
winds;  it  is  intersected  by  numerous  limpid  streams. 

The  whole  number  of  acres  is  76IO,  of  which  2850 
are  arable,  830  in  constant  pasture,  and  the  remainder 
undivided  common.  The  soil  is  generally  a  light  black 
loam,  in  some  places  alternated  with  sand,  and  in  others 
with  clay  ;  and  is  well  adapted  for  the  cultivation  of 
turnips,  which  frequently  attain  a  large  growth,  averag- 
ing from  twelve  to  fourteen  pounds  each  in  weight.  The 
chief  crops  are  oats  and  bear,  with  potatoes,  turnips, 
and  the  various  kinds  of  grasses ;  flax,  also,  was  for- 
merly cultivated  with  great  success.  Very  considerable 
improvements  in  agriculture  have  taken  place  under 
the  auspices  of  Alexander  Sutherland  Gramme,  Esq.,  the 
principal,  and  almost  the  sole,  proprietor  of  the  lands. 
The  common  Orkney  breed  of  cattle,  formerly  prevalent, 
has  been  improved  by  the  introduction  of  the  Dunrobin, 
and  also  of  the  Teeswater,  or  short-horned  breed  ;  and 
a  powerful  stimulus  has  been  given  to  the  rearing  of 
cattle,  by  steam  navigation,  which  has  opened  new  mar- 
kets for  the  sale  of  produce.  The  district  of  the  parish 
called  Paplay  has  been  always  remarkable  for  the  fer- 
tility of  its  soil,  and  the  abundance  of  its  crops  :  it  is 
supposed  to  have  derived  its  appellation  from  having 
been  the  property  of  some  religious  establishment. 
There  is  nothing  peculiar  in  the  geological  features  of 
the  parish.  Graeme's  Hall,  the  seat  of  the  ancient  family 
of  the  Graemes,  descendants  of  Graeme,  Bishop  of  Ork- 
ney, is  now  deserted. 

The  site  of  a  fishing- village  was  laid  out  on  the  shore  of 
the  harbour  of  Holm  Sound  when  the  parish  was  sur- 
veyed in  1S2S,  with  a  view  to  encourage  the  settlement 
of  fishermen  by  profession  at  this  place,  which,  from  the 
convenience  of  its  harbour,  and  its  proximity  to  the 
German  Ocean,  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  purpose. 
The  fish  found  off  the  coast  are,  cod,  ling,  haddock, 
halibut,  flounders,  and  skate.  For  the  supply  of  his 
family,  almost  every  inhabitant  has  a  share  in  a  boat ;  and 
most  of  them  are  also  adventurers  in  the  herring-fishery, 
which  commences  in  July,  and  ends  in  September ;  but 
there  is  no  regular  fishing  establishment,  the  population 
being  generally  agricultural.  Fairs  for  cattle  and  horses 
are  held  quarterly.  The  grain  raised  in  the  parish  is 
sent  to  the  distilleries  in  Kirkwall,  for  which,  and  for 
the  conveyance  of  other  produce,  facilities  are  afforded 
by  steamers,  which,  since  1833,  have  continued  to  ply 
here  for  eight  months  during  the  year.  The  ecclesias- 
tical affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  pres- 
bytery of  Kirkwall  and  synod  of  Orkney.  The  minis- 
ter's stipend  is  £157,  of  which  more  than  one-third  is 
paid  from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £4  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Zetland. 
The  church,  originally  dedicated  to  St.  Nicholas,  and 
rebuilt  in  1818,  is  situated  at  Paplay,  in  the  eastern 
Vol.  I. — 545 


portion  of  the  parish,  and  affords  sufficient  accommoda- 
tion for  the  parishioners  ;  the  seats  are  all  free.  There 
is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  United  Seces- 
sion. The  parochial  school  is  well  attended  ;  the  mas- 
ter has  a  salary  of  £26,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and 
the  fees  average  about  £5  per  annum.  Mr.  Patrick 
Graeme,  sheriff-depute  of  the  county  in  1770,  and  pro- 
prietor of  Graeme's  Hall,  was  a  great  benefactor  to  the 
parish  ;  he  supplied  the  inhabitants  with  linseed  gratis, 
introduced  the  cultivation  of  flax,  and  taught  them  the 
art  of  making  it  into  cloth,  of  which,  for  many  years 
prior  to  his  decease,  they  exported  20,000  yards 
annually  to  the  English  markets.  Admiral  Alexander 
Grrome,  who  distinguished  himself  in  the  action  with 
the  Dutch  off  the  Dogger  Bank,  in  which  he  lost  his 
right  arm,  though  not  resident,  was  also  a  great  bene- 
factor to  his  tenants. 

HOLM  ISLES,  in  the  county  of  Orkney.  Holm 
is  a  name  by  which  several  islands  of  the  Orkney 
group  are  known,  with,  in  most  cases,  a  distinctive 
affix.  Of  these,  one  simply  called  Holm  is  in  the 
parish  of  Westray,  and  lies  on  the  east  side  of  Papa- 
Westray.  Holm  of  Grim  bister,  in  the  parish  of 
Firth,  is  situated  in  a  creek,  east  of  Pomona,  and  a  very 
short  distance  from  its  shore.  Holm  of  Howton  be- 
longs to  Orphir  parish,  and  is  south  of  the  main  land, 
in  Scalpa  Flow ;  its  scanty  herbage  feeds  a  few  sheep. 
Holm  of  Huir,  in  the  parish  of  Stronsay,  lies  north  of 
the  island  of  that  name,  and  is  appropriated  to  the  pas- 
turage of  sheep  and  cattle.  Holm  of  Pharay,  in  the 
parish  of  Eday,  is  situated  in  Westray  Frith,  and  north- 
west of  Eday,  and  forms  a  northern  point  of  Fersness 
bay.  All  these  isles  are  of  very  small  extent,  and  unin- 
habited. Holm  of  Midgarth,  in  the  parish  of  St. 
Peter,  Stronsay,  is  also  of  moderate  extent;  but  it  has 
two  dwellings,  and  six  persons  at  present  reside 
upon  it. 

HOLMS,  The,  isles,  in  the  parish  of  Unst,  county 
of  Shetland,  These  are  three  minute  uninhabited 
isles,  which  lie  to  the  north-west  of  the  island  of  Unst ; 
they  are  each  nearly  of  the  same  size,  and  are  the  small- 
est of  the  whole  Shetland  group. 

HOLTON- SQUARE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Alloa,  county  of  Clackmannan  ;  containing  295  in- 
habitants. It  is  a  colliery  village,  consisting  of  about 
sixty  dwellings,  and  appendant  to  the  mines  of  the 
same  name. 

HOLYTOWN,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Bothwell,  middle  ward  of  the  county  of 
Lanark,  1 1  miles  (E.  by  S.)  from  Glasgow  ;  containing, 
with  the  villages  of  Chapelhall  and  Newarthill,  SI69  in- 
habitants, of  whom  900  are  in  the  village  of  Holytown. 
This  district  is  situated  in  a  part  of  the  county  abound- 
ing with  coal  and  ironstone,  both  of  which  are  wrought 
to  a  very  great  extent.  The  collieries  comprise  all  the 
various  seams,  and  not  less  than  from  twenty  to  thirty 
are  in  operation  ;  the  ell  coal,  the  nine  feet,  and  the 
splint  coal  are  found  in  abundance  in  the  mines  of  Cha- 
pelhall. On  the  Woodhall  estate,  ironstone,  of  good 
quality,  principally  that  called  the  black  band,  is  plen- 
tiful ;  and  it  is  wrought  at  Calderbraes,  near  the  village 
of  Holytown,  and  at  Greenside,  near  Newhouse.  The 
Monkland  Iron  and  Steel  Company  have  extensive  works 
near  Chapelhall,  in  which  are  three  blast-furnaces, 
making  together  about  1440  tons  of  pig-iron  monthly, 

4  A 


HOLY 


HOLY 


and  six  others  producing  2880  tons  :  in  the  same  esta- 
blishment are  mills  and  forges  in  which  400  tons  of 
malleable  iron  are  manufactured  weekly.  Some  works 
at  Cairnbroe,  also,  belonging  to  a  firm,  contain  six 
blast-furnaces,  yielding  600  tons  of  iron  per  week  ■  and 
two  more  furnaces  are  in  contemplation.  About  one 
hundred  tons  of  steel  are  made  by  the  Monkland  Com- 
pany annually,  of  which  thirty  tons  are  wrought  into 
files  ;  and  about  sixty  tons  of  scrap  iron  are  collected 
by  them  monthly,  and  manufactured  into  engines  for 
steam -boats  and  other  purposes.  In  the  company's 
works  more  than  2400  persons,  including  miners,  are 
constantly  employed  ;  and  the  average  annual  amount 
of  the  produce  of  the  various  iron-works  in  the  district 
is  estimated  at  £676,000. 

Among  the  principal  mansions  are,  Woodhall,  an 
ancient  house  in  good  preservation ;  Cleland  House,  a 
handsome  modern  mansion,  beautifully  situated  on  the 
South  Calder ;  Carfin  and  Jerviston,  both  on  the  banks 
of  the  same  river  ;  and  Lauchope  House,  an  elegant 
mansion  recently  erected;  and  tastefully  embellished. 
The  village  is  on  the  great  road  from  Edinburgh  to 
Glasgow,  and  the  district  is  intersected  by  the  roads 
from  Stirling  to  Carlisle,  and  from  Edinburgh  to  Ayr 
and  Hamilton  ;  it  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  persons  em- 
ployed in  the  collieries  and  iron-works.  The  post  has  a 
daily  delivery  ;  and  facility  for  the  conveyance  of  the 
produce  of  the  several  works  is  afforded  by  the  Wishaw 
and  Coltness  railway,  which  joins  the  Garnkirk  line  at 
Gartsherrie,  and  by  the  Monkland  canal.  The  late 
quoad  sacra  parish  of  Holytown  was  about  four  miles  in 
length,  and  of  nearly  equal  breadth,  comprising  an  area 
of  12,000  acres,  of  which  one-half  are  arable,  and  of  the 
remainder,  about  one-third  woodland  and  plantations, 
and  two-thirds  meadow  and  pasture.  The  soil  is  a  cold 
and  tenacious  clay,  difficult  to  work,  but,  from  the  im- 
proved state  of  husbandry,  producing  favourable  crops, 
though  not  more  than  sufficient  for  the  supply  of  the 
population.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton  and 
synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr.  A  preaching  station  was 
for  some  time  established  in  the  district,  which,  within 
the  last  few  years,  has  been  replaced  by  the  erection  of 
a  handsome  church,  containing  S30  sittings.  The  minis- 
ter derives  his  stipend,  £80,  from  the  seat-rents  and 
collections,  under  the  patronage  of  the  male  communi- 
cants. There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  the  United  Asso- 
ciate Synod.  District  parochial  schools  are  supported 
by  small  endowments,  in  addition  to  the  fees ;  five 
schools  are  maintained  by  the  parties  connected  with 
the  several  works,  in  which  more  than  1000  children 
receive  instruction  ;  and  three  more  are  about  to  be 
erected  by  subscription.  There  are  also  eight  Sabbath 
schools ;  and  to  those  of  Holytown,  Newarthill,  Chapel- 
hall,  and  Cairnbroe,  libraries  are  attached. 

HOLYWOOD,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dumfries, 
3  miles  (N.  N.  W.)  from  Dumfries;  containing  1061 
inhabitants,  of  whom  SI  are  in  the  village.  It  is  un- 
certain when  the  present  name  was  first  applied  to  this 
parish  ;  but  the  Oak  forest  which  once  overspread  the 
ground,  and  the  Druidical  temples  situated  here,  leave 
no  doubt  as  to  its  origin.  This  wood,  or  forest,  ex- 
tended, it  is  supposed,  for  about  eight  miles,  reaching  to 
Snaid,  in  the  parish  of  Glencairn  ;  and  as  it  was  well 
known  by  the  early  Christian  missionaries  to  have  been 
546 


the  retreat  of  the  Druids,  some  of  whose  temples  are  in 
the  vicinity,  the  memory  of  its  primitive  consecration 
was  probably  transmitted  by  them,  under  the  name  of 
Holywood.  The  ancient  abbey  of  Holywood  stood  in 
the  south-east  corner  of  the  present  burying-ground. 
It  was  founded  by  Dervorgilla,  or  Donagilla,  daughter 
of  Allan,  lord  of  Galloway,  who  died  in  1269 ;  she  was 
the  mother  of  John  Baliol,  declared  king  of  the  Scots 
by  Edward  I.,  in  1292.  It  was  called  Monasterium  sacri 
nemoris,  on  account  of  its  situation  in  the  grove  of  oaks  j 
and  its  monks  were  of  the  Praemonstratensian  order  -. 
among  them  is  said  to  have  been  Johannes  de  Sacro 
Bosco,  a  great  mathematician,  and  author  of  the  book 
De  Sphcera.  This  monastery,  with  that  of  Whithorn,  is 
supposed  to  have  sprung  from  the  religious  institution 
of  Souls-seat,  near  Stranraer,  founded  by  Fergus,  lord  of 
Galloway,  early  in  the  twelfth  century.  The  remains  of 
the  abbey,  the  roof  of  which  was  supported  by  a  fine 
pointed  arch  across  the  middle  of  the  building,  were 
taken  down  in  1778,  and  the  materials  used  for  the 
erection  of  the  present  parish  church.  The  two  bells 
belonging  to  the  edifice  were,  however,  preserved  ;  they 
are  of  excellent  tone,  and  are  now  the  parish  bells.  The 
patronage  of  Holywood  formerly  belonged  to  the  earls 
of  Nithsdale,  one  of  whom  sold  it,  in  1714,  to  Alexander 
Ferguson,  of  Isle,  in  Kirkmahoe,  whose  son,  Robert, 
disposed  of  it  to  Robert  Ferguson,  of  Fourmerkland,  in 
this  parish,  after  which  it  passed  through  several  hands, 
and  was  purchased,  in  1S23,  by  the  late  John  Crichton, 
Esq.,  of  Skeoch.  Cowhill,  in  the  parish,  was  long  the 
seat  of  the  Maxwells,  cadets  of  the  noble  family  of 
Nithsdale.  In  the  year  1560,  the  old  castle  was  burnt 
by  the  English;  and  a  tower,  in  lieu,  was  built  in  1579; 
but,  being  obtained  by  purchase,  in  17S3,  by  G.  John- 
stone, Esq.,  a  Liverpool  merchant,  he  pulled  it  down  in 
order  to  erect  an  elegant  mansion  on  its  site. 

The  parish  is  about  ten  miles  long,  and  its  mean 
breadth  is  one  mile  and  a  half;  it  contains  8960  acres. 
It  is  situated  in  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the  vale  of 
Nithsdale,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north-east  by  Kirk- 
mahoe ;  on  the  east  by  the  parish  of  Dumfries  ;  on  the 
south  by  Terregles,  Irongray,  and  Kirkpatrick-Durham, 
in  the  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright ;  and  on  the  west  and 
north  by  Glencairn  and  Dunscore.  Being  in  a  broad 
valley,  the  surface  is  flat  and  low,  with  the  exception  of 
one  range  of  hills,  which,  however,  are  neither  abrupt 
nor  of  great  height.  The  lands  are  watered  by  the 
Nith  and  Cluden,  the  latter  of  which  is  a  famous  trout- 
stream.  The  soil  in  the  vicinity  of  these  rivers  is  a  rich 
alluvial  mould,  free  from  stones  :  adjacent  to  this  the 
earth  is  light  and  dry,  and  rests  upon  fine  sand  or 
gravel.  In  some  other  parts  there  is  a  deep  strong 
loam,  very  strong,  and  recumbent  upon  a  tilly  subsoil : 
although  this  in  its  natural  state  is  not  so  fertile  as  the 
former,  yet  when  drained,  limed,  and  properly  wrought, 
it  becomes  much  more  productive,  except  in  cold  and 
wet  seasons.  The  hilly  ground  is  somewhat  more  shal- 
low and  dry ;  it  is  covered  with  an  ordinary  kind  of 
grass,  mixed  with  heath  and  harsh  weeds.  The  parish 
comprises  7500  acres  under  tillage,  560  in  wood,  360 
moss,  300  hill  land,  120  meadow,  and  120  roads.  Both 
white  and  green  crops  of  all  kinds  are  produced,  and 
the  system  of  husbandry  followed  is  of  the  most  ap- 
proved kind.  Fine  crops  of  turnips  are  raised  by  the 
liberal  and  judicious  application  of  bone-dust  manure, 


HOPE 


H  O  UN 


and  are  eaten  off  the  ground  by  the  sheep.  The,  cattle 
are  mostly  the  black  Galloways ;  the  cows  for  the 
dairy  are  of  the  Ayrshire  breed.  The  hilly  tracts  are 
occupied  by  the  native  Scotch  sheep  j  but  the  English 
breed  is  preferred  on  the  lower  grounds,  for  the  superior 
quality  of  the  wool.  Extensive  improvements  have  been 
going  on  for  a  considerable  time  in  the  different  branches 
of  husbandry,  comprising  subdivisions  of  land,  good 
drainage,  the  repairing  and  enlarging  of  farm-houses, 
&c.  :  indeed,  the  rental  of  the  parish  has  been  consider- 
ably more  than  doubled  since  the  year  1790.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  Holywood  now  amounts  to 
£7437. 

The  rocks  in  the  upper  part  of  the  parish  are  the 
greywacke ;  in  the  midland  district  they  consist  of  hard 
red  freestone  and  limestone.  Boulders,  also,  of  large 
and  small  grained  greywacke,  conglomerate,  and  trap, 
with  several  varieties  of  granite  and  sienite,  are  found, 
from  the  weight  of  a  stone  to  three  tons.  The  parish 
has  two  small  villages,  viz.,  Holywood  and  Cluden.  The 
facilities  of  communication  are  extremely  great,  about 
thirty  miles  of  road  being  distributed  in  different  direc- 
tions throughout  the  parish,  all  of  which  are  in  excel- 
lent condition  for  travelling.  The  turnpike-road  from 
Carlisle  to  Glasgow,  by  Dumfries,  is  carried  near  the 
manse  ;  and  a  coach  runs  upon  it  to  and  fro  every  day. 
A  coach,  also,  passes  from  Dumfries  to  Glasgow,  by 
Ayr.  At  Cluden,  within  the  parish,  are  some  extensive 
mills,  which  are  let  on  lease  to  the  Company  of  Bakers, 
at  Dumfries.  16,000  bushels  of  wheat;  12,000  of  oats  ; 
of  barley  shelled,  1000  ;  and  of  barley  for  flour,  between 
400  and  500  bushels,  are  produced  at  the  mills  every 
year.  About  one  mile  higher  up  the  Cluden  is  another 
mill,  in  which  barley  is  ground,  flax  prepared,  and  wool 
carded.  Wool  is  also  spun  by  machinery,  on  a  small 
scale,  at  Speddoch. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  pres- 
bytery of  Dumfries  and  synod  of  Dumfries ;  patron, 
James  Otto,  Esq.,  of  Skeoch.  The  stipend  of  the  minister 
is  £204  ;  and  there  is  a  good  manse,  with  seven  acres 
of  arable  land,  valued  in  £10.  10.  per  annum.  The 
church  was  built  in  1773,  and  thoroughly  repaired  in 
1821.  It  is  a  neat  building  with  a  square  tower,  and 
well  adapted  for  accommodation,  but  inconveniently 
situated,  being  eight  miles  distant  from  a  part  of  the 
population  :  it  contains  600  sittings.  There  are  three 
parochial  schools,  in  which  all  the  usual  branches  of 
education  are  taught.  The  master  of  the  first  school 
has  a  salary  of  £26;  the  second  master  has  £15,  and 
the  third  £10.  The  total  income  of  the  first  master  is 
about  £60  ;  that  of  the  second  and  third,  between  £25 
and  £30  each.  There  is  also  a  subscription  library, 
established  fifty  years  ago,  the  volumes  in  which  are 
chiefly  theological.  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south- 
west from  the  church,  are  eleven  large  stones,  placed  in 
an  oval  form  :  the  number  was  twelve  till  within  these 
few  years.  They  have  been  universally  ascribed  to  the 
Druids  ;  and  the  massy  size  of  the  stones,  the  largest  of 
which  weighs  twelve  tons,  excites  the  astonishment  of 
all  visiters.  Mr.  Charles  Irvine,  who,  in  1790,  discovered 
the  method  of  rendering  salt  water  fresh,  for  which  he 
was  rewarded  by  government  with  a  grant  of  £5000, 
was  connected  with  the  parish. 

HOPEMAN,   a  village,  in   the   parish  of  Duffus, 
county  of  Elgin,  2^  miles  (E.  N.  E.)  from  Burgh-Head  ; 
547 


containing  58S  inhabitants.  This  village,  also  called 
Hopeman  Harbour,  is  situated  on  the  shore  of  the 
Moray  Frith,  and  between  the  ports  of  Burgh-Head  and 
Lossiemouth.  It  is  the  seat  of  a  considerable  fishery, 
but,  though  regularly  built,  has  not  been  remarkable 
hitherto  for  a  cleanly  appearance.  In  1840,  anew  and 
excellent  harbour  was  completed  here,  having  seventeen 
and  a  half  feet  of  water  at  spring  tides,  and  five  feet  at 
low  water,  with  an  easy  entrance  of  thirty-six  feet,  at 
right  angles  to  the  coast,  leading  from  the  outer  to 
the  inner  harbour,  the  whole  completely  sheltered. 
Salmon,  herrings,  and  white-fish  are  the  kinds  chiefly 
taken  off  this  part  of  the  coast.  In  the  village  is  a  small 
school. 

HORDA,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Burray,  county  of 
Orkney.  It  is  one  of  the  smaller  isles,  lying  in  the 
Pentland  Frith,  between  South  Ronaldshay  and  Swinna  ; 
and  is  about,  a  mile  in  length  and  half  a  mile  in  breadth, 
affording  pasturage  to  cattle  and  sheep. 

HORISDALE,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Gair- 
loch,  county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty;  containing  27 
inhabitants. 

HORNDEAN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Ladykirk, 
county  of  Berwick,  7  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Berwick; 
containing  124  inhabitants.  This  place  consists  chiefly 
of  the  Kirktown  of  the  ancient  parish  of  Horndean, 
which  was  annexed,  at  the  Reformation,  to  the  parish 
of  Ladykirk.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  gentle 
acclivity  rising  from  the  banks  of  the  river  Tweed,  and 
is  inhabited  by  persons  employed  in  the  various  handi- 
craft trades  carried  on  for  the  supply  of  the  neighbour- 
hood, in  the  salmon-fishery,  and  in  agriculture. 

HOSPITAL-MILL,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Cults, 
district  of  Cupar,  county  of  Fife  ;  containing  66  inha- 
bitants. It  consists  of  a  small  group  of  houses,  and  of 
a  mill,  formerly  a  flax,  and  now  a  tow  mill,  in  which 
are  spun  about  200  tons  of  tow  annually,  valued  at 
£7000,  and  for  which  Dundee  is  the  principal  market. 

HOUNAM,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Kelso,  county 
of  Roxburgh,  11  miles  (S.  S.  E.)  from  Kelso;  con- 
taining 280  inhabitants,  of  whom  45  are  in  the  hamlet, 
and  the  remainder  in  the  rural  districts  of  the  parish. 
This  place,  of  which  the  name  is  of  doubtful  origin,  is 
not  distinguished  by  any  events  of  historical  import- 
ance, though,  from  its  situation  on  the  confines  of 
England,  and  the  remains  of  numerous  forts,  it  pro- 
bably participated  in  the  frequent  hostilities  of  the 
border  warfare.  The  parish  measures  about  eight  miles 
in  length  and  six  in  mean  breadth,  and  is  bounded  on 
the  south-east  by  the  county  of  Northumberland,  in 
England.  The  surface  is  almost  one  continued  series 
of  hills,  forming  part  of  the  Cheviot  range,  and  is 
diversified  with  gentle  undulations  in  some  parts,  and 
in  others  with  small  valleys  and  narrow  glens,  inter- 
vening between  the  bolder  hills.  Through  these  valleys, 
the  waters  of  the  Kale  and  Capehope  wind  for  several 
miles,  along  the  banks  of  which  are  some  small  tracts 
of  level  land.  The  highest  of  the  hills  is  Hounam  Law, 
which  has  an  elevation  of  1464  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea ;  it  is  of  conical  form,  and  easy  of  ascent,  and 
is  about  nine  miles  in  circumference  at  the  base.  The 
lower  hills  vary  from  1200  to  1300  feet.  The  Kale  water 
has  its  source  in  the  hills  in  the  parish  of  Oxnam, 
and,  taking  a  northerly  course,  divides  the  parish  into 
two  nearly  equal  parts,  and,  after  a  very  circuitous  pro- 

4  A2 


HO  UN 


HOUN 


gress,  unites  with  the  Capehope  near  the  village,  a  little 
to  the  westward  of  which  it  forms  a  picturesque  cascade, 
falling  from  a  rocky  precipice.  These,  and  various 
smaller  streams  which  flow  through  the  parish,  abound 
■with  excellent  trout.  There  are  also  numerous  springs 
of  excellent  water,  and  one  of  medicinal  properties,  which 
is  in  some  repute  as  a  powerful  diuretic. 

The  soil  varies  greatly  in  different  parts,  but  is 
notwithstanding  tolerably  fertile,  and  in  the  valleys  and 
lower  grounds  extremely  rich,  in  the  higher  lands  a 
sandy  gravel,  and  in  some  places  moss  and  heath.  The 
whole  number  of  acres  is  estimated  at  14,45S  ;  of  these, 
about  13,540  are  hilly  pasture  and  sheep-walks,  816 
acres  arable,  and  10*2  in  wood  and  plantations.  The 
crops  are,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the  sys- 
tem of  agriculture  is  advanced ;  the  lands  have  been 
drained,  and  considerable  portions  of  waste  reclaimed. 
The  farm-houses,  most  of  which  have  been  rebuilt,  are 
substantial  and  commodiously  arranged  ;  those  of  mo- 
dern erection  are  of  stone,  and  roofed  with  slate  ;  and 
all  the  more  recent  improvements  in  agricultural  im- 
plements have  been  generally  adopted.  The  number  of 
sheep  annually  fed  on  the  hilly  pastures  is  about  13,000, 
principally  of  the  Cheviot  breed,  to  the  improvement 
of  which  much  attention  is  paid  ;  those  on  the  lower 
pastures  are  of  a  mixed  breed  between  the  Cheviot  and 
Leicestershire.  Above  1600  stones  of  wool  are  annually 
procured  for  sale.  About  seventy  milch-cows  are  kept 
on  the  dairy-farms,  and  120  head  of  young  cattle  an- 
nually reared,  chiefly  the  Ayrshire :  few  horses  are 
reared,  except  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  these  are 
partly  of  the  Lanarkshire,  and  partly  of  the  English 
breeds.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£5171-  Wood  formerly  abounded  in  some  parts,  and 
there  are  still  scattered  remains  of  ancient  forests  ;  but 
the  woods  have  been  nearly  all  cut  down,  and  very  few 
trees,  if  any,  have  been  planted  in  their  place.  The 
plantations  are  chiefly  of  recent  formation;  those  of 
Chester  House  have  attained  considerable  growth  ;  and 
the  younger  plantations  at  Greenhill,  and  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  village,  are  in  a  thriving  state,  and,  when  mature, 
will  add  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  There 
are  also  some  well-grown  trees  in  the  hedge-rows,  in- 
cluding oak,  ash,  elm,  and  beech ;  and  birch,  hazel, 
alder,  and  mountain-ash  appear  to  be  indigenous  to  the 
soil.  The  plantations  arc  mostly  plane,  Scotch  fir,  and 
larch.  The  rocks  in  the  parish  are  principally  of  por- 
phyry formation,  and  in  the  cavities  are  found  grey 
amethyst,  rock-crystal,  calcareous  spar,  quartz,  agates, 
and  jasper ;  the  two  last  afford  some  very  beautiful 
specimens.  The  substrata  in  the  lower  parts  are 
chiefly  clay,  gravel,  and  sand.  Greenhill,  the  seat  of 
the  Duke  of  Roxburghe,  is  a  handsome  and  spacious 
mansion,  beautifully  situated  in  grounds  tastefully  laid 
out,  and  embellished  with  shrubberies  and  ornamental 
plantations. 

The  hamlet,  which  is  of  considerable  antiquity,  is 
pleasingly  seated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Kale  water, 
and  at  the  base  of  a  gently  rising  ground,  which  gra- 
dually terminates  in  a  hill  of  considerable  height ; 
it  consists  of  a  substantial  inn,  and  a  few  dwelling- 
houses,  each  of  two  stories,  and  all  lately  rebuilt. 
Almost  adjoining  it,  is  a  neat  range  of  houses  which 
may  be  regarded  as  a  continuation  of  the  hamlet. 
Fairs  are  held  on  the  Oxnam  side  of  the  parish,  on  the 
54S 


31st  July  and  15th  October,  for  lambs  and  ewes,  and 
are  well  attended.  Facility  of  intercourse  with  the 
market-towns  is  afforded  by  various  good  roads  that 
pass  through  the  parish,  and  by  handsome  and  sub- 
stantial bridges  recently  erected  over  the  different 
streams,  and  all  of  which  are  kept  in  excellent  repair. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Jedburgh  and  synod  of 
Merse  and  Teviotdale  :  patron,  Sir  George  Warrender, 
Bart.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  about  £206  ;  the 
manse,  erected  in  1776,  and  enlarged  and  repaired  in 
1832,  is  a  tolerably  comfortable  residence,  and  the 
glebe  comprises  about  nine  acres,  valued  at  £11  per 
annum.  The  church  is  very  ancient,  and  was  formerly 
a  cruciform  structure  ;  but  it  has  been  curtailed  in  its 
proportions,  and  is  at  present  a  plain  rectangular 
building,  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  not  more  than 
200  persons.  The  parochial  school  affords  education  to 
about  thirty  children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £34, 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £11. 
There  are  traces  of  ancient  camps  in  various  parts ;  the 
Roman  road  called  the  "Street"  passes  through  the 
parish ;  and  on  some  rising  ground  near  the  village, 
overlooking  the  Kale  water,  are  the  remains  of  an  old 
fort,  which  has  given  the  name  of  Chester  House  to  the 
lands  on  which  it  is  situated.  At  Hounam-Mains  are 
distinct  traces  of  a  very  extensive  circular  intrench- 
ment  called  the  Rings  ;  likewise  part  of  a  circle  of  up- 
right stones,  supposed  to  be  Druidical ;  and  in  several 
parts  of  the  parish  are  similar  stones,  of  large  dimen- 
sions, in  detached  situations.  There  are  also  some 
cairns,  thought  to  have  been  raised  over  the  tombs  of 
warriors  killed  in  battle. 

HOUNDWOOD,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the 
parish  of  Coldingham,  county  of  Berwick,  6  miles 
(W.  N.  W.)  from  Ayton  ;  containing,  with  the  villages  of 
Auchincraw  and  Reston,  1334  inhabitants.  This  dis- 
trict, which  is  situated  in  the  southern  portion  of  Col- 
dingham,  comprises  about  12,000  acres,  of  which  S500 
are  arable,  300  woodland  and  plantations,  and  the  re- 
mainder meadow,  pastm-e,  and  waste.  The  surface  is 
diversified  with  hills,  of  which,  however,  the  highest, 
Wardlaw  Bank,  has  not  an  elevation  of  more  than  640 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  though  commanding 
from  its  summit  a  splendid  view  to  the  east,  south,  and 
west,  embracing  the  German  Ocean,  the  Merse,  part  of 
Roxburghshire,  the  heights  of  Lammermoor,  and  the 
Cheviot  hills  in  the  distance.  The  lands  are  watered 
by  the  small  river  Eye,  which  flows  for  nearly  eight 
miles  through  the  district,  and  falls  into  the  sea  at 
Eyemouth  :  common  trout  of  excellent  quality  are  found 
in  abundance.  The  soil  is  tolerably  fertile,  and  the 
arable  grounds  are  in  good  cultivation,  producing  favour- 
able crops  ;  the  system  of  husbandry  is  improved  ;  the 
lands  have  been  drained  and  inclosed,  and  the  farm- 
houses and  offices  are  substantial  and  commodious. 
The  plantations  are  chiefly  oak,  elm,  birch,  and  fir  ; 
they  are  under  good  management,  and  generally  in  a 
thriving  state.  Renton  House,  the  seat  of  Sir  Samuel 
Stirling,  Bart.,  and  Houndwood  House,  the  property 
and  residence  of  Mrs.  Coulson,  are  the  principal  man- 
sions. In  the  village  of  Reston  is  a  small  manufactory 
for  woollen  cloths  of  the  coarser  kind ;  but  the  popu- 
lation of  the  district  is  mostly  agricultural.  The  cattle 
and  sheep  bred  in  the  pastures  are  sent  to  Ayton,  Dunse, 


HOUS 


II  o  u  s 


and  Morpeth  ;  and  other  agricultural  produce  chiefly 
to  Dunbar,  Eyemouth,  and  Berwick.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery 
of  Chirnside  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and 
the  patronage  is  vested  in  the  male  communicants  :  the 
stipend  of  the  minister  is  £87,  arising  from  scat-rents 
and  collections.  A  chapel  which  was  erected  on  the 
lands  of  Renton,  in  1794,  by  the  Renton  family,  and  in 
which  divine  service  was  performed  by  a  minister  of 
their  endowment,  has  been  closed  since  the  opening  of 
the  present  church  in  1836.  The  church  is  a  handsome 
Structure  in  the  Grecian  style  of  architecture,  and  con- 
tains 500  sittings,  of  which  twenty  are  free ;  it  was 
built  by  subscription,  at  a  cost  of  £800,  towards  which 
£16?.  10.  were  contributed  from  the  General  Assembly's 
funds.  The  chapel  at  Renton  is,  however,  still  in  good 
repair.  There  are  a  parochial  school,  and  a  school  sup- 
ported by  subscription.  Formerly,  numerous  remains 
existed  of  strongholds,  of  which  that  of  Houndwood 
was  the  seat  of  the  prior  of  Coldingham. 

HOUSTON  and  KILLALLAN,  a  parish,  in  the 
Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew  ;  including  the 
village  of  Crosslee  and  part  of  the  late  quoad  sacra  dis- 
trict of  Bridge-of-Weir,  and  containing  "2818  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  623  are  in  the  village  of  Houston,  14 
miles  (S.  \V.)  from  Glasgow.  This  place  consists  of 
two  parishes  which  were  united  in  the  year  1760,  when 
the  population  in  both  of  them  was  scarcely  more  than 
one-third  of  the  present  number.  The  principal  resi- 
dent proprietor  is  W.  M.  Fleming,  Esq.,  whose  ancestor, 
Peter  Fleming,  held  the  estate  of  Barochan,  in  this 
parish,  and  being  celebrated  for  his  skill  in  falconry, 
received  from  James  IV.  the  hood  of  his  favourite  hawk, 
richly  studded  with  gems,  as  a  reward  for  his  dexterity, 
which  hood,  though  many  of  the  jewels  have  been  lost, 
and  among  them  a  ruby  of  great  value,  is  still  preserved 
in  the  house  at  Barochan,  the  residence  of  his  descend- 
ant. The  parish  of  Houston  is  supposed  to  have 
derived  its  name  from  Hugo  de  Padvinan,  who  obtained 
a  grant  of  the  barony  of  Kelpeter  from  Baldwin,  sheriff 
of  Lanark,  and  who  substituted  his  own  name  for  that 
by  which  the  barony  had  been  previously  called.  The 
name  of  the  other  parish  is  thought  to  be  a  corruption 
of  Killfillan,  an  appellation  said  to  have  been  obtained 
from  Fillanus,  its  tutelary  saint. 

The  united  parish  is  about  six  miles  in  length  and 
three  in  breadth,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  east 
by  the  parish  of  Erskine  ;  on  the  south,  by  the  river 
Gryfe,  which  separates  it  from  the  parish  of  Kilbar- 
chan  ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  parish  of  Kilmalcolm. 
The  river  Gryfe  has  its  source  in  the  upland  moors  and 
high  hills  between  Kilmalcolm  and  Largs,  the  latter 
place  situated  on  the  coast  of  the  Frith  of  Clyde  ;  and, 
augmented  by  numerous  streams  which  meet  near  Du- 
chal,  it  enters  the  parish,  and  pursues  a  rapid  course 
towards  the  low  lands  at  Fulwood,  in  which  it  is  preci- 
pitated over  several  rocky  heights.  Thence  it  winds  its 
way  into  the  Clyde,  first  receiving  the  river  Black  Cart 
at  Walkinshaw,  and  the  White  Cart  near  the  bridge  of 
Inchinnan.  The  surface  is  irregular,  and  in  many  parts 
beautifully  diversified.  In  the  lands  of  Houston  is  an 
extensive  wood,  consisting  chiefly  of  oak,  ash,  birch, 
and  plane  trees,  of  which  many  are  of  venerable  growth  ; 
there  is  a  similar  wood  of  natural  growth,  and  exten- 
sive and  thriving  plantations,  at  Barochan.  The  high 
549 


grounds  in  the  district  of  Killallan,  likewise,  are  largely 
planted  with  oak,  ash,  beech,  and  Scotch  fir  ;  and  the 
mosses  have  been  covered  with  trees  which  appear  to 
be  thriving  well.  Agriculture  forms  but  a  secondary 
pursuit  in  the  parish,  and  comparatively  only  a  small 
portion  of  land  is  in  cultivation  ;  the  greater  number  of 
the  inhabitants  being  employed  in  the  various  manufac- 
tures which  have  been  established.  Improvements  have, 
notwithstanding,  been  made  in  draining  the  grounds, 
and  many  of  the  mosses  have  been  reclaimed,  and  pro- 
duce abundant  crops ;  the  farm-buildings  are  substan- 
tial and  commodious,  and  are  all  roofed  with  slate. 
The  scarcity  of  common  manure  has  led  to  the  intro- 
duction of  a  compost  of  moss  prepared  with  oil,  which, 
under  proper  management,  has  been  found  to  answer 
well.  The  substratum  is  chiefly  clay,  covered  in  some 
parts  with  moss  six  feet  in  depth  ;  in  the  higher  dis- 
tricts, granite  of  good  quality  is  prevalent ;  and  in  the 
lower  parts,  sandstone  and  limestone  are  quarried. 
Coal  exists  in  abundance  ;  and  mines  have  been  opened 
for  the  supply  of  the  extensive  works  in  the  parish,  and 
for  fuel  in  the  neighbouring  places.  Barochan,  the 
patrimonial  seat  of  Mr.  Fleming,  is  of  considerable  an- 
tiquity, and  has  recently  undergone  great  improve- 
ments ;  it  is  beautifully  situated,  and  embellished  with 
ornamental  plantations,  forming  a  conspicuous  feature 
in  the  landscape.  A  subscription  library  has  been  esta- 
blished in  the  village  of  Houston.  Fairs  are  held  in 
May,  chiefly  for  milch-cows,  young  cattle,  and  for 
others,  of  the  Highland  breed.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £11,293. 

The  chief  manufacture  is  that  of  cotton,  for  which 
several  extensive  mills  have  been  erected,  mostly  on  the 
banks  of  the  Gryfe.  The  principal  are  the  New  mills, 
near  the  Bridge  of  Weir,  in  the  district  of  Killallan, 
erected  in  1792,  and  at  present  conducted  by  Messrs. 
Findlay ;  they  contain  6240  mule  spindles,  and  are 
driven  by  a  water-wheel  thirteen  feet  in  diameter,  with 
power  equal  to  that  of  twelve  horses,  and  afford  employ- 
ment to  nearly  100  persons.  The  mill  at  Gryfe  grove, 
erected  in  1822,  contains  nearly  1000  mule  spindles, 
and  500  for  water-twist,  with  the  requisite  machinery, 
set  in  motion  by  a  water-wheel  of  cast-iron,  of  twelve 
feet  diameter,  and  giving  occupation  to  about  forty  per- 
sons :  adjoining  is  a  mill  erected  by  the  same  proprie- 
tor, for  carding  wool.  A  mill  has  also  been  erected  by 
Mr.  Shanks,  in  which  are  1400  spindles,  driven  likewise 
by  an  iron  water-wheel  twelve  feet  in  diameter.  Gryfe 
mill,  to  the  east  of  the  Bridge-of-Weir  mill,  and  belong- 
ing to  Messrs.  John  Freeland,  and  Co.,  was  built  in  1793, 
and  contains  1S,000  spindles;  it  is  set  in  motion  by  a 
water-wheel  nineteen  feet  in  diameter,  and  employs 
nearly  300  persons.  Crosslee  mill,  conducted  by  Messrs. 
Stevenson  and  Sons,  is  driven  by  a  wheel  of  cast-iron, 
twenty-six  feet  in  diameter,  and  equivalent  to  seventy- 
horse  power ;  it  affords  constant  employment  to  300 
people.  Houston  cotton-mills,  situated  on  the  burn  of 
that  name,  and  built  in  1793,  is  driven  by  a  wheel  of 
eighteen-hox-se  power,  about  thirty  feet  in  diameter, 
and  employs  140  persons  :  attached  to  this  mill  is  a 
steam-engine,  by  which  the  machinery  is  set  in  motion 
when  the  water  of  the  stream  is  insufficient  for  that 
purpose.  Houston  bleachfield,  on  the  same  rivulet, 
belonging  to  Messrs.  Carlisle,  is  an  extensive  establish- 
ment, chiefly  employed  for  the  manufacturers  of  Glas- 


HOY 


H  U  M  E 


gow  and  Paisley  :  about  4000  pounds  of  cotton  and 
60,000  pounds  of  linen-yarn  and  thread,  and  about 
12,000  pounds  of  raw  silk,  are  annually  bleached  in 
this  establishment,  in  which  fifty  persons  are  engaged. 
The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Paisley  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  patronage  of  Alexander  Speirs, 
Esq.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £264,  with  a  manse, 
and  a  glebe  valued  at  £13.  10.  per  annum.  The  church, 
erected  in  3775,  is  conveniently  situated  ;  it  is  in  good 
repair,  and  is  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  S00  per- 
sons. The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place 
of  worship  ;  and  there  is  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel.  The 
parochial  schoolmaster  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £24 
fees,  and  a  house  and  garden. 

HOWGATE,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Penicuick, 
county  of  Edinburgh,  2  miles  (S.  S.  E.)  from  Peni- 
cuick ;  containing  SI  inhabitants.  It  lies  on  the  high 
road  from  Libberton  to  Dumfries  ;  and  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood are  several  fine  streams,  of  which  some  are 
tributaries  to  the  Esk.  A  Secession  meeting-house  was 
built  here  in  1750. 

HOWIESHILL,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Cambus- 
jlang,  Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  2^  miles 
{S.  E.  by  E.)  from  Rutherglen ;  containing  62  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  situated  on  the  road  from  Rutherglen  to 
Hamilton,  and  is  one  of  the  numerous  hamlets  in  the 
parish,  and  a  short  distance  east  of  Cambusland. 

HOWWOOD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Lochwin- 
noch,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Renfrew,  2|  miles 
(S.  W.)  from  Johnstone  ;  containing  252  inhabitants. 
It  is  seated  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  the  parish,  and 
on  the  road  from  Lochwinnoch  to  Johnstone,  which 
runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  Ardrossan  and  Johnstone 
canal.  The  village  is  neatly  built,  though  of  small 
extent,  and  consists  principally  of  detached  houses  and 
cottages  inhabited  by  persons  engaged  in  cotton-mills 
and  in  agriculture.  A  school  has  been  established,  the 
master  of  which  has  a  good  house  and  garden  rent-free, 
and  occasionally  a  donation,  which  is  raised  by  volun- 
tary contribution  of  the  inhabitants  :  his  principal  in- 
come, however,  arises  from  the  fees.  A  friendly  society, 
also,  has  long  been  formed,  and  has  acquired  ample 
funds. 

HOY,  an  island,  in  the  county  of  Orkney  ;  con- 
taining I486  inhabitants,  of  whom  1153  are  in  the 
parish  of  Walls  and  Flotta,  and  the  remainder  in  that 
of  Hoy  and  Grasmsay.  See  the  articles  on  those  two 
parishes. 

HOY  and  GRjEMSAY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Orkney,  2§  miles  (S.)  from  Stromness;  containing 
547  inhabitants,  of  whom  214  are  in  the  island  of 
Graemsay.  This  parish,  which  is  chiefly  situated  in  the 
island  of  Hoy,  the  principal  of  the  South  Orkney  isles, 
is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Sound  of  Hoy,  which 
separates  it  from  the  parish  of  Stromness,  in  the  main 
land  ;  on  the  east,  by  the  bay  of  Scalpa,  in  which  is  the 
small  island  of  Graemsay ;  on  the  south  and  south-east, 
by  the  parish  of  Walls  ;  and  on  the  west,  by  the  Atlan- 
tic Ocean.  That  part  of  the  parish  which  is  in  the  isle 
of  Hoy  is  about  nine  miles  in  extreme  length,  and  six 
miles  in  breadth.  The  surface  is  boldly  elevated,  form- 
ing the  highest  ground  in  the  whole  island,  from  which 
circumstance  it  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name ; 
and  the  lands  are  chiefly  marked  by  three  lofty  hills, 
ranged  in  triangular  form,  of  which  that  to  the  north- 
550 


east  rises  from  a  broad  base  to  the  height  of  1200  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  soil  along  the  shores  of 
Hoy  is  a  rich  loam,  and  in  other  parts  peat,  alternated 
with  clay.  The  greater  portion  of  the  land  is  covered 
with  heath,  affording  pasture  to  many  flocks  of  sheep 
which  roam  at  large  :  in  the  husbandry  of  what  is  ara- 
ble very  little  improvement  has  been  made.  The  sce- 
nery, for  want  of  timber,  has  a  dreary  aspect,  relieved, 
however,  in  some  parts  by  small  valleys,  intersecting 
the  hills,  and  watered  by  numerous  rivulets,  of  which 
the  banks  are  ornamented  with  a  few  shrubs  and  wild- 
flowers.  The  hills  abound  with  Alpine  plants ;  and 
there  are  several  deep  glens,  in  whicb  the  sound  of  the 
voice,  or  the  report  of  a  musket,  is  re-echoed  by  repeated 
reverberations.  A  rock  on  the  brink  of  a  valley,  called 
the  Dwarfie- stone,  has  been  excavated  into  three  dis- 
tinct apartments  ;  in  one  of  these  is  something  resem- 
bling a  bed,  and  between  this  and  a  smaller  apartment  is 
a  recess  apparently  intended  as  a  fire-place,  with  a  hole 
cut  in  the  roof  to  emit  the  smoke.  The  whole  mass 
is  of  sandstone,  about  thirty-two  feet  in  length,  seven- 
teen feet  in  breadth,  and  seven  and  a  half  feet  in  height. 
Veins  of  iron  and  lead  ore  have  been  discovered  ;  and 
the  latter,  on  analysis,  was  found  to  contain  a  consider- 
able proportion  of  silver  ;  and  some  grains  of  gold  have 
also  been  met  with. 

The  island  of  Graemsay,  which  is  separated  from  the 
rest  of  the  parish  by  a  sound  about  a  mile  in  breadth,  is 
a  beautiful  spot,  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length  and  a  mile 
broad.  Its  surface  is  level,  and  covered  with  verdure 
affording  luxuriant  pasturage ;  the  soil  is  fertile,  and 
that  portion  of  the  land  which  is  arable  produces  rich 
crops  of  grain  :  the  substratum  throughout  is  clay- 
slate,  which  is  wrought  for  roofing.  Cod,  ling,  and 
other  fish  are  found  in  abundance  off  the  coast ;  and 
seven  boats  belonging  to  the  parish  are  regularly  em- 
ployed in  the  herring-fishery,  during  the  season.  The 
ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  presbytery  of  Cairston  and  synod  of  Orkney.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £150,  to  which  are  added  £8.  6.  S. 
for  communion  elements,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £8  per  annum ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Zetland. 
There  are  two  churches,  both  in  good  repair.  The 
church  of  Hoy  was  built  towards  the  close  of  the  last 
century,  and  that  of  Graemsay  was  thoroughly  repaired 
about  the  year  1810;  they  contain  each  182  sittings. 
Divine  service  is  performed  every  third  Sunday  at 
Graemsay ;  and  on  the  two  others  the  inhabitants 
attend  the  church  at  Hoy.  The  parochial  school  at 
Hoy  is  well  attended ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £26, 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  are  about  £2  per 
annum.  A  school  in  Grsemsay  is  supported  by  the  So- 
ciety for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge.  Among  the 
precipices  on  the  coast  is  a  massive  lofty  insulated 
pillar  which,  from  a  fancied  resemblance,  is  called  the 
"  Old  Man  of  Hoy  ;"  it  is  conspicuously  seen  from  the 
Caithness  coast. 

HULMITRAY,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Harris, 
county  of  Inverness.  This  is  one  of  the  smaller  isles 
of  the  Hebrides,  and  is  situated  in  the  Sound  of  Harris, 
and  a  short  distance  to  the  north-east  of  the  island  of 
North  Uist. 

HUMBIE,  county  of  Haddington. — See  Keith  and 
Humbie. 

HUME. — See  Stitchell,  county  of  Roxburgh. 


HUNT 


HUNT 


'  HUNA,  a  township,  in  the  parish  of  Canisbay, 
county  of  Caithness,  19  miles  (N.)  from  Wick;  con- 
taining 111  inhabitants.  This  place  is  situated  on  the 
shore  of  the  Pentland  Frith,  and  consists,  in  its  western 
part,  from  Huna  Inn  to  Gill's  bay,  of  one  of  the  most 
fertile  districts  in  the  parish,  and  eastward  to  Duncans- 
bay  burn,  of  moss,  which  prevails  to  the  very  brink  of 
the  Frith.  The  parochial  church  stands  on  an  eminence 
close  by  the  shore,  and  the  manse  is  built  about  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile,  inland,  from  it :  the  tall  white  spire  of  the 
former  is  an  excellent  landmark  at  sea.  Here  is  a 
post-office,  from  which  the  mail-boat  with  the  Orkney 
bags  crosses  the  Frith  three  times  a  week,  the  distance 
to  the  landing-place  in  Orkney  being  about  twelve  miles. 
Edwin,  King  of  Scotland,  fought  an  army  of  Orkney- 
men  at  Huna,  and  signally  defeated  them. 

HUNDA,  an  island,  forming  part  of  the  parish  of 
St.  Peter  in  South  Ron aldshay,  south  isles  of  Orkney, 
and  containing  6  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  Scalpa  Flow,  to 
the  north  of  Ronaldshay,  and  west  of  the  isle  of  Burray ; 
and  is  of  small  extent. 

HUNIE,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Unst,  county  of 
Shetland.  This  is  a  very  small  islet,  lying  on  the 
east  side  of  the  isle  of  Unst,  and  a  short  distance  from 
Balta. 

HUNTERFIELD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Cock- 
pen,  county  of  Edinburgh  ;  containing  90  inhabit- 
ants. 

HUNTHILL,  a  hamlet,  in  the  parish  of  Blantyre, 
Middle  ward  of  the  county  of  Lanark,  3-§  miles  (W.  N. 
W.)  from  Hamilton ;  containing  60  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  on  the  western  borders  of  the  parish,  and  nearly 
adjoins  the  village  of  Blantyre,  in  the  manufactures  and 
works  connected  with  which  the  population  is  partly 
engaged. 

HUNTLY,  a  burgh  of  barony  and  a  parish,  in  the 
district  of  Strathbogie,  county  of  Aberdeen,  39  miles 
(N.  W.)  from  Aberdeen,  and  145  (N.  by  E.)  from  Edin- 
burgh ;  containing  3642  inhabitants,  of  whom  2731  are 
in  the  burgh.  This  place,  including  the  united  parishes 
of  Dumbennan  and  Kinoir,  anciently  formed  part  of  the 
ample  possessions  of  the  powerful  family  of  the  Cumyns, 
of  whose  baronial  seat,  Strathbogie  Castle,  there  are  still 
considerable  remains.  During  the  contested  succession 
to  the  throne  of  Scotland  after  the  death  of  Alexander 
III.,  the  Cumyns,  who  were  the  adherents  of  Edward  I. 
of  England,  were  nearly  extirpated  by  the  Gordons, 
upon  whom  Robert  Bruce  conferred  the  castle  and  lands 
of  Strathbogie,  in  reward  of  their  important  services. 
The  castle  was  almost  destroj^ed  after  the  battle  of 
Glenlivet,  in  1594,  but  was  restored,  with  considerable 
additions,  by  the  first  Marquess  of  Huntly,  in  1602, 
and,  under  the  name  of  Huntly  Castle,  was  the  seat  of 
the  head  of  the  Gordon  family  till  their  removal  to 
Fochabers,  when  it  became  the  residence  of  the  Mar- 
quess of  Huntly,  eldest  son  of  the  Duke  of  Gordon,  and 
so  continued  for  a  time.  On  the  death  of  George,  the 
fifth  duke,  in  1836,  without  issue,  the  dukedom  of 
Gordon  became  extinct;  but  the  Marquessate  of  Huntly, 
his  second  title,  descended  to  his  kinsman,  the  Earl  of 
Aboyne.  The  late  duke's  heir  of  entail,  the  Duke  of 
Richmond,  is,  with  the  exception  only  of  the  estate  of 
Avochy,  the  present  proprietor  of  all  the  lands. 

The  town,  which  derives  its  name  from  its  founders, 
the  family  of  Gordon,  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  penin- 
551 


sula,  near  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Doveran  and 
Bogie,  over  the  former  of  which  is  an  ancient  bridge  of 
one  spacious  arch,  and  over  the  latter  a  substantial 
bridge  of  three  arches.  The  streets  are  regularly  formed, 
intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles ;  and  in  the  centre 
is  a  noble  square,  surrounded  with  handsome  houses, 
some  of  which  are  of  very  elegant  appearance.  The 
town  is  well  paved,  and  lighted  with  gas  ;  and  the  in- 
habitants are  amply  supplied  •with  water.  There  are 
several  libraries,  of  which  the  chief  are,  the  Farmers' 
Agricultural  library,  an  evangelical  subscription  library, 
and  a  circulating  library  ;  and  there  is  also  a  reading- 
room,  supplied  with  public  journals  and  periodical 
publications.  The  environs  abound  with  picturesque 
scenery,  enlivened  by  numerous  villas,  and  derive  much 
interest  from  the  venerable  ruins  of  the  ancient  castle, 
and  the  beautiful  grounds  of  Huntly  lodge,  on  the  oppo- 
site bank  of  the  Doveran.  The  linen  manufacture  was 
formerly  carried  on  here  to  a  very  great  extent,  but, 
since  the  termination  of  the  war,  has  very  much  de- 
clined ;  and  at  present,  not  more  than  forty  weavers 
are  employed,  for  the  wholesale  houses  of  Aberdeen, 
and  a  few  in  the  weaving  of  damask.  There  are  a 
bleach-field  upon  a  moderate  scale,  and  a  tannery  and 
distillery  in  full  operation  ;  the  usual  handicraft  trades 
for  the  supply  of  the  neighbouring  district  afford  em- 
ployment to  many  of  the  inhabitants,  and  there  are 
numerous  shops  supplied  with  merchandise  of  various 
kinds.  From  its  situation  on  the  principal  road  from 
Aberdeen  to  Inverness,  the  town  has  a  considerable 
degree  of  traffic.  The  post-office  has  a  daily  delivery; 
and  there  are  branches  of  the  North  of  Scotland,  the 
Town  and  County,  and  the  Aberdeen  banks,  for  the  first 
of  which  a  handsome  building  has  been  erected  in  the 
square.  A  market  is  held  on  Thursday,  which  is  amply 
supplied  with  grain,  and  numerously  attended  by  dealers 
from  different  parts  of  the  country ;  and  fairs,  chiefly 
for  cattle  and  horses,  are  held  monthly,  of  which  those 
at  Whitsuntide  and  Martinmas  are  also  for  hiring  ser- 
vants. Facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  good 
turnpike-roads,  of  which  that  from  Aberdeen  to  Inver- 
ness passes  through  the  town,  that  to  Banff  through 
the  north-east,  and  one  to  Portsoy  through  the  north- 
ern, district  of  the  parish.  The  town  was  erected  into 
a  free  burgh  of  barony  by  charter  of  James  III.,  granted 
to  George,  second  earl  of  Huntly  ;  and  is  governed  by 
a  baron  bailie,  appointed  by  the  superior,  but  whose 
jurisdiction  extends  only  to  the  removal  of  obstructions 
in  the  public  streets  and  thoroughfares. 

The  parishes  of  Dumbennan  and  Kinoir  were  united 
in  17'27,  and,  in  honour  of  the  eldest  son  of  the  Duke 
of  Gordon,  called  Huntly.  The  united  parish  is  about 
ten  miles  in  length,  and  four  miles  in  breadth.  The 
surface  is  diversified  with  hills  of  moderate  height, 
which  surround  the  town  on  all  sides,  and  of  which  the 
hill  of  Kinoir,  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  consisting  of 
several  thousand  acres,  has  been  recently  planted  by 
the  Duke  of  Richmond,  at  an  expense  of  nearly  £3000. 
The  rivers  are  the  Doveran  and  the  Bogie.  The  Dove- 
ran has  its  source  in  the  hills  of  Cabrach,  and,  flowing 
through  the  parish  in  a  north-easterly  direction,  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  the  Bogie.  The  Bogie  rises  in  the 
parish  of  Auchindoir,  and  forms  the  boundary  between 
this  parish  and  that  of  Drumblade  for  two  or  three 
miles.    Both  these  rivers  abound  with  trout,  and  salmon 


H  U  N  T 


HUTC 


are  also  found  in  the  Doveran.  The  quantity  of  land 
which  is  arable  cannot  be  precisely  determined,  but 
there  is  little  waste  capable  of  improvement :  the  soil, 
though  various,  and  consisting  chiefly  of  clay,  moss, 
and  gravel,  is  tolerably  fertile  ;  and  the  chief  crops  are 
oats,  barley,  and  bear.  The  hills  afford  good  pasture 
for  cattle,  of  which  considerable  numbers  are  reared, 
and  sent  to  the  English  markets  ;  but  few  sheep  are 
bred  in  the  parish.  The  system  of  husbandry  has  been 
improved  under  the  auspices  of  an  agricultural  society 
of  which  the  Duke  of  Richmond  is  patron,  and  which 
holds  annual  meetings  in  the  town  for  the  distribution 
of  prizes,  when  a  cattle  show  takes  place.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £7 "45.  The  plantations 
consist  chiefly  of  birch,  elm,  oak,  larch,  and  Scotch  and 
spruce  firs,  all  of  which  are  carefully  managed,  and  in  a 
thriving  state.  The  rocks  are  generally  of  granite  and 
whinstone  :  limestone  has  been  quarried,  though  it  is 
of  inferior  quality,  and  very  difficult  to  work  with  any 
prospect  of  advantage  ;  and  ironstone  and  plumbago 
have  been  also  found.  Huntly  Lodge,  the  seat  of  the 
Dowager  Duchess  of  Gordon,  was  formerly  a  shooting- 
box  belonging  to  the  dukes,  by  one  of  whom,  about 
1830,  it  was  enlarged  and  greatly  improved  as  a  resi- 
dence. It  is  an  elegant  mansion,  beautifully  situated 
in  a  demesne  embellished  with  plantations,  and  taste- 
fully laid  out  in  walks,  and  enlivened  by  the  rivers 
Doveran  and  Bogie,  which  unite  within  the  grounds. 
Avochy  House,  the  seat  of  John  Gordon,  Esq.,  is  a 
pleasant  residence,  within  the  grounds  of  which  are 
some  slight  remains  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Avochy. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Strathbogie  and  synod  of 
Mora)'.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £1S5.  13.  9.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £'25  per  annum  ;  patron, 
the  Duke  of  Richmond.  The  old  church,  situated  in 
the  centre  of  the  town,  is  a  spacious  plain  structure, 
erected  in  1S05,  at  a  cost  of  £'2600,  and  containing 
1S00  sittings.  The  new  church,  erected  in  1841,  at  an 
expense  of  £1400,  is  also  in  the  town,  and  contains 
1 100  sittings ;  the  duty  is  performed  by  a  missionary, 
appointed  by  the  General  Assembly,  and  who  has  a 
stipend  of  £100,  derived  chiefly  from  the  seat-rents. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church,  the  United  Secession,  and  Independents ;  also 
an  episcopalian,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  the  latter 
a  handsome  structure  in  the  later  English  style.  The 
parochial  school  is  well  attended ;  the  master  has  a 
salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees 
average  £60.  He  also  receives  £30  per  annum  from 
the  Dick  bequest.  The  school  is  held  in  a  building 
erected  by  the  Duchess  Dowager  of  Gordon,  in  which 
are  also  held  a  school  connected  with  the  new  church, 
and  supported  by  subscription,  and  an  infant  and  a 
sewing  school,  of  which  the  mistresses  receive  salaries 
from  the  duchess.  A  dispensary  is  maintained  ;  and 
there  are  several  friendly  societies,  and  a  savings'  bank 
in  the  town,  in  which  are  deposits  amounting  to  £3644. 
The  remains  of  the  castle  consist  partly  of  those  of  the 
ancient  castle  of  Strathbogie,  of  which  the  chief  portion 
is  a  large  circular  tower,  now  in  ruins ;  and  partly  of 
the  restorations  of  Huntly  Castle,  which  also  are  greatly 
dilapidated.  The  whole  forms  a  venerable  pile  of  ruins, 
romantically  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Doveran,  near 
the  bridge. 
552 


HURLET,  a  village,  in  the  Abbey  parish  of  the 
town  of  Paisley,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Ren- 
frew, 3  miles  (S.  E.)  from  Paisley ;  containing  2S7  in- 
habitants. The  village  and  the  adjacent  hamlets  are 
inhabited  chiefly  by  colliers,  and  others  employed  in  the 
extensive  mineral  works  carried  on  in  the  district.  The 
immediate  neighbourhood  abounds  with  coal,  which  has 
been  wrought  for  more  than  three  centuries;  and  iron- 
stone is  found  in  great  abundance,  in  the  procuring  of 
which  alone  about  100  men  are  at  present  constantly 
engaged.  The  manufacture  of  copperas  was  introduced 
into  Scotland  by  a  company  from  Liverpool,  who  esta- 
blished their  works  at  this  place ;  and  a  similar  con- 
cern was  formed  at  Nitshill,  in  the  vicinity,  in  1S07,  by 
a  company  who  subsequently  purchased  the  works  at 
Hurlet,  which  they  converted  into  a  manufactory  for 
alum.  Large  quantities  of  muriate  of  potash  and  sul- 
phate of  ammonia  are  also  produced,  and  conveyed  to 
Glasgow  and  Paisley  by  canal,  and  by  the  Hurlet  rail- 
way. The  produce  of  the  mines  and  mineral  works  in 
the  district,  in  a  recent  year,  was,  42,554  tons  of  coal, 
4931  tons  of  limestone,  5701  tons  of  aluminus  schistus, 
1200  tons  of  alum,  and  300  tons  of  copperas  ;  the  num- 
ber of  men  employed  was  5S0.  To  remedy  the  distress 
to  which  the  miners  and  others  are  subject,  from  the 
frequent  occurrence  of  accidents  in  their  dangerous  em- 
ployments, a  friendly  society  has  been  established;  and 
about!  100  children  of  the  workmen  attend  a  school 
in  the  neighbourhood,  where  they  are  taught  reading, 
writing,  and  arithmetic,  and,  on  the  Sabbath,  receive 
religious  instruction.  The  villages  of  Corsemill  and 
Dovecothall,  in  the  vicinity,  are  chiefly  inhabited  by 
persons  employed  in  the  bleaching  and  print  fields  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  Levern;  and  several  are  occupied 
in  the  extensive  cotton-mills  at  Barrhead,  in  the  adjoin- 
ing parish  of  Neilston. 

HURLFORD,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Riccarton, 
district  of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr,  l£  mile  (E.  S.  E.)  from 
Kilmarnock;  containing  371  inhabitants.  This  place 
is  seated  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river  Irvine,  over 
which  is  a  good  and  substantial  bridge,  that  has  lately 
undergone  extensive  alteration  and  repair.  The  popu- 
lation is  chiefly  engaged  in  the  coal-works  in  operation 
in  the  parish.  The  great  high-road  from  Ayr  to  Edin- 
burgh intersects  the  village.  There  is  a  school,  of  which 
the  master  has  a  free  house  and  garden,  and  for  which 
the  ground  was  given  by  the  Duke  of  Portland. 

HUTCHESONTON,  a  town,  in  the  parish  and 
barony  of  Gorbals,  within  the  jurisdiction  of  Glasgow, 
county  of  Lanark  ;  containing  3559  inhabitants.  This 
place,  which  forms  one  of  the  principal  suburbs  of  the 
city,  is  situated  to  the  south  of  the  Clyde,  on  land  ori- 
ginally in  the  parish  of  Govan,  purchased  in  1647  by 
the  corporation  of  Hutcheson's  hospital.  The  town  was 
commenced  in  1794,  and  consists  of  several  spacious 
and  well-formed  streets,  intersecting  each  other  at  right 
angles ;  the  houses  are  generally  from  three  to  four 
stories  in  height,  and  are  tolerably  well  built  of  stone, 
and  roofed  with  slate.  The  whole  is  well  lighted  with 
gas,  and  amply  supplied  with  water.  The  inhabitants 
had  formerly  facility  of  communication  with  the  city  of 
Glasgow  by  a  bridge  over  the  Clyde,  which  was  scarcely 
completed  when  it  was  swept  away  by  an  inundation  of 
the  river,  in  1795.  The  loss  of  this  bridge  greatly  re- 
tarded the  progress  of  the  town  ;  and  it  was  not  till  the 


H  U  T  T 


II  U  T  T 


year  1S29  that  the  foundation-stone  of  a  new  one,  on 
the  same  site,  was  laid  by  the  preceptor  of  the  hospital. 
The  present  bridge  is  a  handsome  structure  of  five  arches, 
from  a  design  by  Mr.  Robert  Stevenson,  civil  engineer  ; 
and  is  406  feet  in  length,  and  thirty-six  feet  wide  within 
the  parapets. 

The  population  are  partly  employed  in  the  cotton 
manufacture,  weaving  both  by  power  and  hand  looms, 
and  in  different  branches  of  the  linen  trade.  A  very 
extensive  factory  for  weaving  stripes  and  checks  for 
furniture,  various  fabrics  for  women's  dresses,  shirtings, 
and  other  articles,  was  established  here  by  Messrs. 
Somerville  and  sons.  There  are  also  some  foundries 
and  iron-works,  of  which  the  most  important  are  those 
of  Mr.  W.  Dixon,  who  has  erected  several  hot-blast  fur- 
naces on  the  principle  of  Neilson's  patent,  in  which 
about  4000  tons  of  pig-iron  are  annually  produced.  The 
greater  portion  of  the  town  was  included  within  the  late 
ecclesiastical  district  of  Hutchesonton,  separated  from 
the  parish  by  act  of  the  General  Assembly.  That  arrange- 
ment, however,  has  been  set  aside  ;  and  a  congregation 
of  members  of  the  Free  Church  now  rent,  the  church, 
a  plain  but  elegant  structure,  erected  in  1839,  at  a 
cost  of  £'2600,  by  the  Church  Building  Society,  and 
containing  more  than  1000  sittings.  The  members  of 
the  Relief  have  also  a  place  of  worship.  A  school-house, 
capable  of  receiving  650  children,  has  been  built  by 
subscription,  aided  by  a  grant  from  government ;  in- 
struction is  afforded  upon  very  moderate  terms.  There 
are  likewise  Sunday  schools  for  children  of  both  sexes, 
all  well  attended.   , 

HUTTON,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Berwick, 
6  miles  (W.  by  N.)  from  Berwick-upon-Tweed  ;  contain- 
ing, with  the  village  of  Paxton,  1133  inhabitants.  The 
parish  of  Hutton  was  enlarged  in  the  year  1614,  by  the 
annexation  of  the  neighbouring  parish  of  Fishwick ; 
and  these  two  districts  form  the  parish  as  it  at  present 
exists.  Hutton,  which  lies  near  the  Whiteadder  river, 
is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name  from  the  situation 
of  its  village  in  a  hollow,  whence  the  term  How-town, 
corrupted  into  Hutton.  Fishwick,  which  is  on  the  banks 
of  the  Tweed,  is  generally  thought  to  have  derived  its 
name  from  the  avocations  of  its  inhabitants  as  fishermen  : 
the  ruins  of  its  church  were  not  long  ago  still  visible. 
From  a  diary  of  the  progress  of  Edward  I.  through 
Scotland,  it  seems  probable  that  he  encamped  in  this 
locality  on  the  29th  of  March,  1'296,  the  day  preceding 
that  on  which  he  took  the  town  of  Berwick.  It  appears 
that  Hatton,  or  Haitden,  was  the  place  where  he  rested 
with  his  army  the  day  after  he  left  Coldstream  ;  and  as 
this  parish  lies  in  the  direct  line  of  his  march  to  Ber- 
wick from  Coldstream,  where  he  crossed  the  Tweed  on 
the  2Sth  of  March,  it  is  concluded  that  it  must  be  the 
spot  there  referred  to. 

The  parish,  which  resembles  in  figure  an  irregular 
triangle,  is  about  four  miles  long  and  three  broad,  and 
contains  5261  acres.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
parishes  of  Chirnside,  Foulden,  and  Mordington,  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  the  Whiteadder  river;  it  has 
the  Tweed  on  the  south,  the  parish  of  Berwick  on  the 
east,  Edrom  on  the  west,  and  Whitsome  and  Ladykirk 
on  the  south-west.  The  surface  presents  one  continued 
flat,  with  the  exception  of  the  ground  on  the  banks  of 
the  Tweed  and  Whiteadder,  which,  being  diversified 
with  gentle  elevations,  relieves  the  tame  and  uninterest- 
Vol.  I. — 553 


ing  scenery  in  the  other  parts  of  the  parish.  The  height 
of  these  elevations,  however,  above  the  sea  seldom  ex- 
ceeds 150  feet.  The  soil  near  the  rivers  is  a  rich  deep 
loam,  resting  upon  sandstone,  and  exceedingly  fertile, 
producing  heavy  crops.  The  ground  in  the  middle  of 
the  parish  is  of  an  inferior  quality,  being  thin,  wet,  and 
moorish,  and  rests  upon  a  tenacious  clayey  subsoil.  A 
tract  of  this  description,  about  a  mile  broad,  commences 
here,  and  runs  from  east  to  west,  to  the  extremity  of 
the  county  ;  while  on  each  side  of  it  the  earth  is  rich 
and  productive.  The  parish  comprises  4950  acres  either 
cultivated  or  occasionally  in  tillage.  Above  sixty  acres 
on  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  being  too  steep  for  the  opera- 
tions of  the  plough,  remain  for  the  most  part  in  natural 
pasture,  part  of  which  is  of  very  superior  quality.  About 
250  acres  are  under  wood,  consisting  of  ash,  elm,  plane, 
oak,  beech,  and  all  the  varieties  of  fir.  This  department 
of  rural  economy  claims  much  of  the  attention  of  the 
proprietors,  especially  on  the  estates  of  Broad  Meadows, 
Paxton,  and  Fishwick,  where  the  plantations  are  in  a 
state  of  rapid  progression.  The  lands  are  considered 
most  suitable  to  wheat,  though  excellent  crops  of  tur- 
nips are  produced,  as  well  as  of  grain  of  all  kinds.  The 
farm-buildings  and  offices  are  in  general  neat  and  con- 
venient ;  and  nearly  the  whole  of  the  grounds  are  in- 
closed with  good  thorn  hedges.  Improvements  in  every 
department  of  husbandry  have,  indeed,  been  carried  on 
for  many  years  past.  Sandstone  of  various  kinds  is  the 
prevailing  rock  :  on  the  estate  of  Hutton  Hall  is  a  stra- 
tum of  very  fine  gypsum.  The  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  is  £10,446. 

There  are  several  mansion-houses,  of  which  Hutton 
Hall  is  the  most  ancient  and  remarkable.  It  is  situated 
on  an  eminence  near  the  Whiteadder,  and  appears  to 
have  been  originally  a  square  tower,  constructed  princi- 
pally for  observation  and  security,  to  which  many  sub- 
sequent additions  have  been  made,  to  accommodate  it  to 
the  usages  of  modern  times.  The  mansion  of  Paxton 
was  built  about  eighty  years  ago,  of  dark  sandstone  ; 
the  front,  is  massive  and  commanding,  and  the  house  is 
enlivened  by  the  passage  of  the  river  Tweed  on  the  south- 
east. The  apartments  are  elegant  and  commodious,  and 
a  very  valuable  collection  of  paintings  enriches  the  man- 
sion. Broad-Meadows  is  constructed  of  fine  white  free- 
stone, and  is  a  modern  building  in  the  Grecian  style  of 
architecture.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  these  resi- 
dences is  interesting,  and  in  some  parts  beautiful,  espe- 
cially near  Paxton.  Not  far  from  the  last-named  place 
are  Spittal  House  and  Tweed  Hill,  the  latter  of  which 
stands  on  the  Tweed,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Union  chain- 
bridge.  The  population  is  almost  entirely  agricultural; 
their  chief  communication  is  with  the  town  of  Berwick. 
There  is  a  manufactory  for  bricks  and  tiles  on  the  estate 
of  Paxton,  where  large  quantities  of  the  latter  are  pro- 
duced for  drainage.  Three  corn-mills  are  also  in  opera- 
tion in  the  parish,  the  produce  of  which,  consisting  of 
flour,  meal,  and  pearl-barley,  is  exported  from  Berwick 
to  London.  Upon  that  part  of  the  Tweed  forming  the 
boundary  line  of  the  parish  are  four  or  five  fishing-sta- 
tions ;  upwards  of  twenty  men  are  employed,  and  con- 
siderable quantities  of  trout,  salmon,  and  grilse  are 
caught,  which  are  packed  in  ice  at  Berwick,  and  des- 
patched to  the  London  market. 

Two  turnpike  roads  pass  through  the  parish,  one 
leading  from  Berwick   to   Dunse,  and  the  other  from 

4  B 


HUTT 


HUTT 


Berwick  to  Kelso,  by  Swinton  ;  on  each  there  is  a  con- 
siderable traffic.  The  lines  of  turnpike  road  are  about 
ten  miles,  and  the  parish  roads  of  equal  extent.  About 
two  miles  and  a  half  from  the  village  of  Hutton,  and  six 
from  Berwick,  is  the  iron  suspension-bridge  over  the 
Tweed,  erected  in  1S20,  and  by  which  many  serious 
accidents,  and  the  loss  of  lives  have  been  prevented.  It 
is  361  feet  in  length,  and  of  one  hundred  tons  weight  of 
malleable  iron ;  the  whole  expense  was  between  £7000 
and  £8000.  Another  bridge  has  been  lately  erected, 
across  the  Whiteadder,  uear  Hutton  Mill,  connecting  the 
parish  with  Foulden,  and  also  opening  a  facility  of  com- 
munication with  the  sea-port  of  Eyemouth,  the  only 
one  in  the  county.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are 
directed  by  the  presbytery  of  Chirnside  and  synod  of 
Merse  and  Teviotdale,  and  the  patronage  is  vested  in 
the  Crown:  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £236,  with 
a  manse,  built  fifty  years  ago,  and  enlarged  and  repaired 
in  1822.  There  are  two  glebes,  one  of  which  is  in 
Hutton,  and  the  other  in  Fishwick,  amounting  together 
to  about  thirteen  acres,  valued  at  £30  per  annum.  The 
present  church,  erected  in  1S34,  is  remarkably  neat  in 
its  external  appearance,  and  accommodates,  in  a  plain 
manner,  but  commodiously,  above  600  persons.  There 
is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  Latin,  mathematics,  and 
all  the  usual  branches  of  education  are  taught  :  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  the  fees  and  a  house. 
The  parish  also  has  two  small  parochial  libraries,  a 
friendly  society,  and  an  agricultural  association,  the 
last  designed  chiefly  to  promote  improvements  in  the 
art  of  ploughing.  Dr.  Andrew  Foreman,  Bishop  of 
Moray,  Archbishop  of  Bourges  in  France,  and  after- 
wards Archbishop  of  St.  Andrew's,  and  who  flourished 
at  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century,  was  a  native  of  the 
parish. 

HUTTON  and  CORRIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of 
Dumfries,  7  miles  (N.  N.  E.)  from  Lockerbie ;  con- 
taining 809  inhabitants.  The  name  of  Hutton  appears 
to  be  derived  from  the  term  Holt,  signifying  an  elevated 
piece  of  ground  or  a  mound  of  earth,  from  some  mounds 
of  artificial  construction  in  the  district,  used  in  ancient 
times  as  seats  of  deliberation,  and  for  the  administra- 
tion of  justice.  Corrie,  which  was  joined  to  Hutton 
soon  after  the  Reformation,  derives  its  appellation  from 
a  rivulet  which  runs  through  it,  and  the  name  of  which, 
in  the  Gaelic  language,  signifies  "  a  narrow  glen,"  the 
stream  issuing  from  a  glen.  On  the  farm  of  Closs,  in 
the  parish,  are  some  remains  of  a  place  called  Maskersa, 
where  the  Grahams,  of  Gillesbie,  formerly  had  their 
residence,  but  from  which  they  removed,  more  than  300 
years  ago,  to  a  tower  on  the  brink  of  the  Dryfe,  which 
was  a  fortress  of  great  strength,  surrounded  by  a  fosse. 
Of  this  family  the  descendants  still  retain  property  in 
the  neighbourhood.  It  was  in  the  .tower  of  Gillesbie 
that  the  first  president  of  the  court  of  session  was  for 
a  time  confined,  when  taken  away  to  prevent  his  giving 
a  decision  in  a  suit  in  which  one  of  the  parties  thought 
he  had  too  much  influence. 

The  parish  extends  twelve  miles  in  length,  from 
north-west  to  south-east,  and  the  average  breadth  is 
about  three  miles  ;  it  contains  nearly  23,000  acres.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  north-east  by  the  ridge  of  hills  which 
divides  Annandale  from  Eskdale  ;  on  the  south-east  by 
the  water  of  Milk,  which  separates  Corrie  from  the 
parish  of  Tundergarth  ;  and  on  the  north  and  west  by 
554 


the  parishes  of  Wamphray,  Applegarth,  and  Dryfesdale. 
The  general  aspect  of  the  country  is  diversified  with  an 
agreeable  variety  of  scenery.  Towards  the  north  the 
hills  are  covered  with  verdure,  and  the  banks  of  the 
Dryfe  with  wood,  the  effect  of  which  is  considerably 
heightened  by  the  course  of  the  stream,  which  runs 
over  a  gravelly,  and  frequently  a  rocky,  bottom.  In 
the  approach  to  the  Milk,  the  view  is  somewhat  similar  ; 
but  the  features  of  the  landscape  are  less  marked  and 
prominent.  On  the  heights  between  these  two  waters, 
the  scene  is  reversed,  and  becomes  bleak  and  rugged. 
The  soil  in  some  places  is  mixed  with  a  fine  gravel,  and 
in  others  with  good  clay  ;  in  the  high  lands  it  is  mossy 
or  moorish.  About  3000  acres  of  land  are  occasionally 
cultivated  ;  the  remaining  20,000  have  not  been  ploughed 
within  the  last  fifty  years.  Much  of  this  ground  was 
formerly  in  tillage ;  but  the  consolidation  of  the  small 
farms  has  led  to  the  conversion  of  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  ploughed  land  into  pasture.  All  kinds  of  white 
and  green  crops  are  raised,  with  the  exception  of  wheat ; 
and  the  system  of  husbandry  followed  is  adapted  to 
the  improved  state  of  agriculture.  About  two-thirds  of 
the  lands  are  employed  as  sheep  pasture  in  nine  or  ten 
regular  breeding  farms,  keeping  about  10,000  sheep, 
which  are  wholly  Cheviots,  except  600  or  700  of  the 
black-faced  breed.  The  cattle,  which  are  also  of  supe- 
rior quality,  and  much  attended  to,  are  of  the  black 
Galloway  breed.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £5300.  The  communication  of  the  people  is 
chiefly  with  Dumfries,  seventeen  miles  distant.  The 
roads  were  formerly  in  bad  condition ;  but  they  have 
been  entirely  re-constructed  within  the  last  thirty  years  : 
they  consist  partly  of  two  lines,  one  of  which  leads 
from  Dumfries  towards  Hawick,  and  the  other  from 
Moffatt  towards  Langholm  and  Carlisle.  There  are 
bridges  over  the  Dryfe,  Corrie,  and  Milk,  which,  as  well 
as  the  roads,  are  kept  in  good  repair. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  directed  by  the  pres- 
bytery of  Lochmaben  and  synod  of  Dumfries  ;  patrons, 
the  Johnstone  family,  of  Annandale.  The  stipend  of 
the  minister  is  £241,  with  a  manse,  built  in  1S03,  and 
since  enlarged  and  improved,  and  a  glebe  of  above 
thirty-five  acres,  worth  £25  per  annum.  The  church 
is  situated  near  the  Dryfe,  equidistant  from  the  north- 
eastern and  southern  extremities  of  the  parish ;  it  is  in 
good  repair,  and  accommodates  312  persons  with  sit- 
tings. There  is  a  parochial  school  situated  in  the 
Hutton  division  of  the  parish,  where  the  classics,  ma- 
thematics, and  French,  with  the  usual  branches  of 
education,  are  taught.  The  master  has  a  house  and 
garden,  with  a  salary  of  £27,  and  about  £20  fees  ;  he  has 
also  two-thirds  of  the  interest  of  £260,  bequeathed  in 
1802,  by  Mr.  James  Graham,  a  native  of  the  parish,  for 
teaching  poor  children  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic. 
There  is  another  parochial  school  at  Corrie,  which  has 
been  for  a  considerable  time  endowed  with  a  bequest  by 
Mr.  Edward  Moffatt,  of  Exeter,  consisting  of  the  in- 
terest of  £280,  for  teaching  the  children  of  this  division 
of  the  parish  reading  and  writing.  In  1S20,  Col.  James 
Wilson,  grand-nephew  of  the  founder,  added  £20  per 
annum  to  the  salary,  on  condition  of  the  master  teaching 
the  children  arithmetic,  and  that  the  school  should  be 
considered  as  endowed,  he  and  his  heirs  appointing  the 
master.  The  heritors  of  Corrie  have  for  some  time  paid 
the  master  about  £16  a  year;  and  besides  a  house  and 


1  N  C  II 


INCH 


garden,  he  has  five  acres  of  good  pasture  ground.  The 
same  branches  of  instruction  are  taught  as  in  the  school 
at  Hutton.  The  relics  of  antiquity  consist  of  the 
remains  of  several  old  intrenchments  of  a  circular 
form,  called  British  forts,  and  of  a  rectangular  one  at 
Carter-town,  which  was  a  Roman  camp,  and  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  a  post  of  communication  between 
Annandale  and  Eskdale,  where  the  Romans  had  several 
stations. 


IBRIS,  or  EYEBROUGHY,  an  isle,  in  the  parish 
of  Dirleton,  county  of  Haddington.  This  islet  lies 
close  to  the  main  land  of  the  parish,  in  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  and  is  of  small  extent,  and  very  narrow.  The 
isle  of  Fidrey,  also  appertaining  to  Dirleton,  is  distant 
about  a  mile  east-north-east  from  Ibris. 

ICOLMKILL,  county  of  Argyll. — See  Iona. 

ILLARY,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  North  Uist, 
county  of  Inverness;  containing  80  inhabitants.  It 
is  one  of  the  Hebrides,  lying  westward  of  North  Uist ; 
and  is  three  miles  in  length,  and  in  most  places  one  and 
a  half  in  breadth.  The  soil  is  partly  sandy,  and  partly 
a  black  loam,  yielding  tolerable  crops  of  barley,  and 
some  pasture  for  cattle.  Illary  is  of  insular  appearance 
only  at  the  flow  of  the  tide. 

INCH,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Wigton,  2^  miles 
(E.)  from  Stranraer ;  containing,  with  the  hamlets  of 
Aird,  Cairnryan,  and  Lochans,  2950  inhabitants.  This 
place,  which  is  of  great  antiquity,  and  distinguished  for 
its  lochs,  appears  to  have  derived  its  name  from  an 
island  in  the  loch  of  Castle- Kennedy,  which  was  called 
the  Inch,  an  appellation  corrupted  from  the  Celtic  word 
Inis  or  Ynis,  signifying  "  an  island."  The  locdity,  in. 
very  ancient  times,  was  occupied  by  the  Novantes,  whose 
town  of  Rerigonium  was  situated  on  the  bank  of  the 
Rerigonius  sinus,  now  called  Loch  Ryan,  and  was  near 
the  farm  of  Innermessan,  adjacent  to  which  is  a  large 
circular  mound  or  moat,  formerly  surrounded,  as  is 
supposed,  by  a  fosse,  and  measuring  seventy-eight  feet 
in  height,  and  336  round  its  base.  Various  purposes 
have  been  assigned  to  this  work  of  antiquity ;  but 
whether  it  was  intended  for  the  administration  of  jus- 
tice, for  a  rendezvous  in  times  of  danger,  or  for  the 
Beltan  (Bel's  fire),  or  for  all  these,  is  uncertain.  The 
circumstance,  however,  of  charred  wood,  ashes,  and 
bones  having  been  found  at  some  depth  below  the  sur- 
face, within  its  line  of  circumscription,  is  strong  evidence 
of  its  having  been  used  occasionally,  and  perhaps  re- 
gularly, as  a  place  of  sepulture.  On  or  near  the  site  of 
Rerigoinum,  at  a  later  period,  stood  the  town  and  castle 
of  Innermessan.  The  latter  belonged  to  Sir  Andrew 
Agnew,  of  Lochnaw ;  the  former,  till  eclipsed  by  the 
town  of  Stranraer,  was  the  largest  place  in  the  Rhins  of 
Galloway  ;  but  no  traces  of  either  remain,  except  a 
sewer  about  three  feet  under  ground. 

The  celebrated  abbey  of  Soulseat,  or  Saulseat,  was 
founded  here  in  the  12th  centui-y,  by  Fergus,  lord  of 
Galloway,  for  Pramonstratensian  monks.  Though  its 
history  is,  for  the  most  part,  involved  in  obscurity, 
Chalmers  is  of  opinion  that  it  was  the  first  institution 
of  the  order  in  Scotland ;  that  its  abbots  were  the  supe- 
riors of  the  Prsmonstratensian  monks  throughout  the 
5  55 


kingdom  ;  and  that  the  establishment  was  the  mother 
of  the  more  opulent  priory  of  Whithorn,  as  well  as  of 
the  abbey  of  Holywood.  In  an  act  of  parliament  of 
1487,  it  is  spoken  of  as  not  being  subject  to  the  autho- 
rity or  appointment  of  the  Pope.  In  1532,  it  appears 
that  David,  abbot  of  Soulseat,  was  invested  with  a  com- 
mission from  the  king,  to  visit  and  reform  all  the 
houses  in  Scotland  of  his  own  order;  and  in  1658,  the 
abbot  is  named  in  a  document  as  uniting  with  others 
in  defence  of  the  queen.  This  abbey,  situated  on  a 
peninsula  that  stretched  out  into  a  lake,  to  which  it 
gave  its  name,  and  surrounded  by  a  burial-ground,  was 
called  Sedes  Animantm,  and  Monasterium  viridis  slagni,  the 
latter  term  in  allusion  to  the  green  appearance,  at  cer- 
tain times,  of  the  surface  of  the  lake.  It  was  a  ruin  in 
16S4,  and  but  very  small  portions  of  the  remains  are 
now  to  be  seen  ;  but  a  part  of  the  burial- ground  is  still 
occasionally  used  as  a  place  of  interment.  The  man- 
sion of  Castle-Kennedy,  situated  here,  and  which  was 
accidentally  destroyed  by  fire  in  1715,  was  a  lofty  and 
spacious  structure,  supposed  to  have  been  built  in  the 
reign  of  James  VI.,  and  was  the  seat  of  the  powerful 
earls  of  Cassilis,  whose  property  and  influence  spread 
over  so  large  a  part  of  Wigtonshire.  It  passed,  with 
the  lands,  in  the  time  of  Charles  II.,  to  Sir  J.  Dalrymple, 
the  younger,  of  Stairs,  in  whose  family  the  estate  has 
since  continued,  though  the  building,  the  remaining 
walls  of  which  are  seventy  feet  high,  has  not  been  in- 
habited since  the  fire.  The  structure  is  surrounded 
by  grounds  beautifully  laid  out  after  a  military  plan 
devised  by  Marshal  Stair  ;  and  adjoining  are  flourishing 
plantations,  containing  some  lofty  and  luxuriant  ash- 
trees. 

The  parish  of  Inch  formerly  comprehended  a  part 
of  that  of  Stranraer  and  the  whole  of  Portpatrick.  The 
latter  was  separated  and  made  distinct  in  162S;  and 
about  the  same  period,  a  portion  of  Inch,  with  some 
land  in  Leswalt,  was  allotted  to  form  the  parish  of 
Stranraer,  and  the  old  parish  of  Soulseat  was  united  to 
Inch.  The  parish  has  the  county  of  Ayr  on  the  north, 
the  parishes  of  New  and  Old  Luce  on  the  east,  and  that 
of  Stoneykirk  on  the  south ;  on  the  west  it  is  bounded 
for  about  eight  miles  by  Loch  Ryan.  It  is  ten  miles 
in  length,  and  in  one  part  nearly  of  the  same  breadth, 
comprising  30,600  acres,  of  which  12,600  are  cultivated 
or  occasionally  in  tillage,  and  the  remainder  waste  or 
natural  pasture.  The  northern  portion  is  principally 
high  land,  rising  in  some  places  to  an  elevation  of  S12 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and,  with  the  exception 
of  a  small  portion  under  the  plough,  is  in  general  rug- 
ged, and  covered  with  heath,  about  S00  acres  only  being 
considered  capable  of  cultivation.  The  southern  portion, 
which  is  part  of  an  isthmus  formed  by  Loch  Ryan  and 
the  bay  of  Luce,  is  slightly  undulated,  but  has,  when 
viewed  from  the  hills,  the  appearance  of  a  continuous 
plain.  It  contains  several  hollows,  provincially  called 
Pots,  which  were  produced  by  the  action  of  the  water 
when  spread  over  this  division  of  the  parish,  and  one  of 
which  is  1000  feet  in  circumference,  and  100  feet  deep. 

The  river  Luce,  in  which  are  good  salmon,  forms  the 
boundary  line  between  this  parish  and  Luce  ;  and  the 
Piltanton,  a  smaller  and  slower  stream,  falling,  like  the 
former,  into  the  bay  of  Luce,  divides  it  from  Stoneykirk. 
The  lands  are  also  ornamented  with  twelve  lochs  of 
fresh  water,    including    those    of  Castle-Kennedy    and 

4  B  2 


INCH 


INCH 


Soulseat,  which  are  the  most  celebrated  for  their  beau- 
tiful scenery.  The  whole  abound  in  pike,  perch,  trout, 
eels,  and  roach ;  and  in  the  frosty  weather,  some  of 
them  are  frequented  by  large  numbers  of  wild-duck, 
teal,  widgeon,  coots,  and  cormorants.  These,  with  the 
swarms  of  wild-geese  near  the  brooks  and  the  sea-shore, 
and  the  flocks  of  cm-lews,  plovers,  and  every  kind  of 
game  on  the  high  lands,  afford  ample  gratification  to 
the  sportsman,  and  impart  an  air  of  livejiness  to  the 
district,  which  is  sometimes  increased  by  crowds  of  per- 
sons of  all  ranks  enjoying,  upon  the  frozen  surface  of 
the  lochs,  the  favourite  amusements  of  curling  and 
skating.  Swans,  also,  frequently  visit  the  place  in  the 
winter ;  and  the  sea-mew,  in  the  spring,  finds  a  retreat 
among  the  sedge  of  the  lochs,  for  bringing  forth  her 
young.  Loch  Ryan,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Clyde, 
has  long  been  a  secure  retreat  for  vessels  entering  or 
leaving  that  river,  and  for  those  navigating  the  Irish 
channel,  even  in  the  most  stormy  and  dangerous 
weather,  on  account  of  its  excellent  anchorage  and 
safe  shelter  off  the  village  of  Cairnryan.  It  is  between 
eight  and  nine  miles  in  length,  from  its  northern  ex- 
tremity to  the  town  of  Stranraer  at  its  head,  and  is 
about  three  miles  wide  at  the  entrance.  It  has  at  first 
from  four  to  five  fathoms'  depth  of  water,  which  gra- 
dually increases  to  from  seven  to  eight  :  and  is  con- 
sidered to  be  admirably  adapted  for  a  mail-packet 
station  between  Scotland  and  Ireland.  Salmon  are 
taken  in  its  estuaries  ;  and  its  fishery,  the  produce  of 
which  comprises  cod,  haddock,  whiting,  herrings,  floun- 
ders, and  oysters  of  very  superior  quality,  partly  belongs 
to  Sir  Alexander  Wallace,  and  is  held  by  charter  from 
the  crown. 

The  soil,  varying  almost  as  much  as  the  surface,  is 
in  the  high  grounds  partly  loam,  though  chiefly  clay, 
with  a  considerable  proportion  of  moss,  and  large  tracts 
of  peat,  from  which  the  inhabitants  are  plentifully  sup- 
plied with  good  fuel.  In  the  lower  parts  it  is  light  and 
fertile,  resting  on  gravel  or  sand,  and  produces  good 
crops  of  all  kinds  of  grain,  potatoes,  turnips,  and  hay. 
The  cultivation  of  the  turnip  was  introduced  into  the 
parish,  about  a  century  since,  by  Marshal  Stair,  and, 
though  practised  only  to  a  very  inconsiderable  extent 
till  within  the  last  few  years,  has  now  become  a  favourite 
branch  of  husbandry,  the  lightness  of  the  soil  being 
remarkably  suited  to  the  root.  The  crops  are  eaten  off 
the  ground  by  sheep,  to  the  great  advantage  of  the  land. 
The  cattle  are  partly  of  the  Galloway  kind ;  but  the 
great  regard  formerly  paid  to  this  stock  has  lately  much 
diminished,  and  the  fanners,  turning  their  attention 
more  to  the  dairy,  have  introduced  the  Ayrshire  cow 
to  a  great  extent ;  and  cheese  now  forms  a  considerable 
part  of  the  disposable  produce.  Numerous  improve- 
ments in  agriculture  have  taken  place  within  the  pre- 
sent century  ;  many  acres  of  bog  have  been  reclaimed, 
and  converted  into  good  arable  land,  now  yielding  fine 
crops  ;  and  most  of  the  farm-houses  have  been  rendered 
comfortable  dwellings.  The  fences  on  the  lower  grounds 
are  occasionally  formed  of  thorn  hedges,  but  are  gene- 
rally turf  dykes,  sown  with  whins  ;  on  the  higher  lands 
they  are  entirely  of  stone.  The  rateable  annual  value 
of  Inch  is  £10,986.  The  geology  of  the  parish  has  no 
striking  features,  the  hills  consisting  chiefly  of  stratified 
transition  rocks,  the  principal  of  which  is  greywacke  : 
detached  blocks  of  granite  are  occasionally  to  be  seen  ; 
556 


and  near  Loch  Ryan  is  an  excellent  slate-quarry.  Several 
attempts  have  been  made  to  discover  coal,  but  without 
effect.  There  is  a  little  natural  wood,  principally  in 
the  glens  of  the  Highland  district ;  the  plantations  cover 
655  acres,  all  inclosed.  The  oldest  are  those  made  by 
Marshal  Stair,  and  consist  chiefly  of  beech,  a  wood  sup- 
posed at  that  time  to  be  the  only  one  suited  to  the  soil 
and  climate,  but  which  has  since  been  equalled,  if  not 
surpassed,  in  growth  and  value  by  the  ash  and  plane. 
These  latter,  with  oak,  elm,  and  larch,  are  now  to  be 
seen,  in  a  thriving  condition,  in  most  of  the  plantations, 
and  serve  very  beneficially  as  a  protection  to  the  arable 
grounds. 

The  chief  village  is  Cairnryan,  which  contains  196  per- 
sons, and  is  distant  seven  miles  from  the  parish  church  ; 
about  100  reside  in  another  village,  and  a  few  in  a 
suburb  of  Stranraer,  lately  built  in  the  parish.  The 
high  road  from  London  to  Portpatrick,  and  that  from 
Glasgow  to  the  same  place,  pass  through  Inch,  and  are 
daily  traversed  by  mail  coaches.  The  steam-packet, 
also,  running  between  Glasgow  and  Stranraer,  and  that 
from  Belfast  to  Stranraer,  touch  at  Cairnryan,  for  pas- 
sengers and  goods.  A  monthly  market,  called  "  the 
Stranraer  cattle-market,"  is  held  from  April  to  October. 
The  parish  ecclesiastically  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Stran- 
raer and  synod  of  Galloway,  and  in  the  patronage  of 
the  Crown.  The  stipend  is  £'264;  and  there  is  a 
manse,  rebuilt  in  1S3S,  with  a  glebe  containing  eighteen 
acres,  valued  at  £15.  15.  per  annum,  and  four  acres, 
lately  added  by  the  draining  of  a  loch.  The  church, 
built  in  1770,  and  capable  of  accommodating  400  per- 
sons, occupies  a  beautiful  situation  adjoining  the  pic- 
turesque woods  and  lake  of  Castle-Kennedy.  The 
parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the  classics, 
practical  mathematics,  and  the  various  branches  of  a 
good  education ;  the  master  receives  the  minimum 
salary,  about  £23  in  fees,  and  has  a  house  and  garden. 

At  Glenterra  is  a  relic  of  antiquity  called  the  Standing 
Stones,  situated  near  the  road  to  New  Luce,  consisting 
of  four  large  upright  stones,  and  conjectured  to  have 
been  originally  a  Druidical  temple  :  near  these  is  a 
single  stone,  also  erect.  There  is  likewise  a  series  of 
stones  called  the  Stepping-Stones  of  Glenterra,  disposed 
like  stairs,  extending  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  along 
a  peaty  moss,  and  supposed  to  have  been  placed  there 
for  the  convenience  of  transit.  Stone  axes  are  occa- 
sionally discovered ;  and  there  are  numerous  cairns  in 
the  upper,  and  tumuli  in  the  lower,  part  of  the  parish, 
which  are  generally  thought  to  have  been  raised  by  the 
Novantes  for  sepulchral  purposes.  They  are  usually 
called  the  Auld  Grey  Cairns,  and  are  formed  of  a  circular 
heap  of  stones,  from  fifty  to  seventy  feet  in  diameter, 
and  rising  from  six  to  eight  feet  in  the  centre  :  in  the 
interior  is  a  cavity  formed  by  large  flat  stones,  in  which 
an  urn  is  generally  found,  containing  bony  fragments, 
ashes,  &c.  At  the  farm  of  Larg,  near  the  river  Luce, 
are  the  remains  of  a  castle,  once  the  residence  of  the 
Lyns  of  Larg.  The  castle  of  Craig-Caffie,  also  situated 
here,  was  the  property  of  the  Nelsons,  a  family  now 
extinct,  and  is  a  moderate-sized  ancient  structure,  sur- 
rounded by  a  fosse,  and  still  in  good  condition,  but 
converted  into  a  farm-house.  That  part  of  the  parish 
which,  with  a  portion  of  Leswalt,  was  detached  to  form 
the  parish  of  Stranraer,  was  the  site  of  a  chapel  dedi- 
cated to  St.  John ;  and  near  this  stood  a  castle,  which 


INCH 


inch 


Symson,  in  his  description  of  Galloway,  written  in  1684, 
calls  "a  good  house  pertaining  to  Sir  John  Dalryniple, 
younger,  of  Stair,"  but  which  is  now  a  jail  for  the 
town  of  Stranraer.  There  are  several  chalybeate  springs, 
and  some  partially  sulphureous.  Marshal  Stair,  cele- 
brated in  military  and  political  history,  was  a  native  of 
Inch.  North-west  Castle  is  the  seat  of  Sir  John  Ross, 
the  well  known  navigator  of  the  Arctic,  who  was  born 
here  in  1777,  during  the  incumbency  of  his  father,  the 
Rev.  Andrew  Ross  ;  and  General  Sir  Alexander  J.  Wal- 
lace, distinguished  as  a  military  officer  in  Egypt,  India, 
and  the  Peninsula,  also  resides  in  the  parish. 

INCH-CAILLOCH,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Bucha- 
nan, county  of  Stirling.  This  beautiful  island,  of 
which  the  name  signifies  the  "  Isle  of  Old  Women,"  is 
situated  in  Loch  Lomond,  and  is  one  of  a  cluster  in  that 
magnificent  and  celebrated  lake.  It  lies  close  to  the 
shore,  about  two  miles  distant  in  a  line  westward  from 
the  church  of  Buchanan,  and  is  a  mile  in  length,  ele- 
vated, and  covered  with  wood,  except  where  cultivated 
for  wheat  and  oats,  which  it  produces  of  very  good  qua- 
lity. Here  formerly  stood  a  nunnery,  the  church 
attached  to  which  was  once  the  parochial  church  of 
Buchanan  ;  but  owing  to  the  inconvenience  arising 
from  crossing  to  the  island  in  boisterous  weather,  divine 
service  was  transferred  to  a  chapel  near  the  house  of 
Buchauan.  This  place  is  the  property  of  the  Duke  of 
Montrose. 

INCHCOLM,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  Aberdour, 
district  of  Dunfermline,  county  of  Fife,  1|  mile  (S. 
by  W.)  from  Aberdour;  containing  5  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  in  the  Frith  of  Forth,  immediately  opposite  to 
Aberdour  ;  and  the  approach  to  it  is  very  beautiful.  On 
this  island  are  the  remains  of  a  celebrated  monastery  of 
Augustines,  founded  in  1123,  by  Alexander  I.,  in  accord- 
ance with  a  vow,  and  most  richly  endowed  by  his  muni- 
ficence. It  soon  became  famous  for  its  sanctity  ;  and 
in  consequence,  Alan  de  Mortimer,  lord  of  Aberdour, 
bestowed  half  of  the  lands  of  the  parish  on  the  monks, 
for  the  privilege  of  a  family  burial-place  in  their  church. 
The  wealth  of  the  convent  proved  so  great  a  temptation 
to  the  army  and  seamen  employed  in  the  invasion  of  the 
kingdom  by  Edward  III.,  that,  they  ravaged  it  without 
mercy,  not  sparing  even  the  vessels  consecrated  to  divine 
worship.  A  storm,  however,  happening  instantly  to 
follow,  which  overtook  their  ships,  and  in  which  many 
of  them  perished,  they  were  struck  with  what  they  re- 
garded as  a  judgment  upon  their  impiety  ;  and  they  re- 
turned on  the  cessation  of  the  tempest,  and  restored  the 
spoil.  The  monastery  continued  a  place  of  great  conse- 
quence, and  was  highly  venerated,  until  the  Reforma- 
tion. On  every  side  the  island  is  hemmed  in  by  rugged 
rocks  ;  in  the  centre  is  a  hollow  vale,  connecting  the 
two  circular  ends  of  the  island,  as  if  by  an  isthmus  ; 
and  a  range  of  fine  land  and  marine  scenery  appears  in 
all  directions,  with,  on  the  south-east,  a  splendid  view  of 
the  city  of  Edinburgh.  A  small  part  of  the  island  is 
arable  ;  and  a  few  stunted  trees  grow  round  the  ancient 
walls  of  the  ruined  cloisters.  The  isle  abounds  in 
rabbits  ;  has  an  occasional  lobster-fishery  ;  and  is  noted 
for  its  onions,  which  it  produces  in  great  quantities. 
During  the  late  war  with  France,  Inchcolm  was  gar- 
risoned by  a  party  of  artillery ;  and  on  the  east  end, 
where  it  is  high  and  rocky,  a  battery  of  ten  guns  was  at 
that  time  erected. 
557 


INCH-CONAGAN,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Luss, 
county  of  Dumbarton.  It  lies  in  the  fine  water  of 
Loch  Lomond,  about  a  mile  eastward  of  the  shore,  and 
is  one  of  a  group  of  several  isles  closely  bordering  on 
one  another.  It  is  more  than  half  a  mile  in  length,  and 
about  two  furlongs  and  a  half  in  breadth  ;  and  contains 
about  ninety-four  acres,  chiefly  under  natural  wood. 

INCH-CRUIN,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Buchanan, 
county  of  Stirling.  This  isle,  of  which  the  name  sig- 
nifies "  the  Round  Island,"  is  situated  in  Loch  Lomond, 
and  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  affording 
some  good  arable  and  pasture  ground.  There  was  for- 
merly a  retreat  here  for  insane  persons. 

INCH-FAD,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Buchanan, 
county  of  Stirling.  The  name,  in  English,  "  Long 
Island,"  is  descriptive  of  its  form  ;  it  is  about  a  mile  in 
length,  and  between  two  and  three  furlongs  in  breadth, 
and  lies,  like  the  two  preceding  isles,  in  the  loch  of 
Lomond,  not  far  from  the  main  land  of  the  parish.  The 
soil  is  very  fertile,  producing  excellent  grain,  and  fine 
pasture;  and  there  is  a  small  portion  of  wood. 

INCHGARVIE,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Inver- 
keithing,  county  of  Fife.  This  is  a  small  islet  in  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  about  half  a  mile  south  of  Queensferry, 
in  the  parish  of  Inverkeithing,  and  double  this  distance 
from  Queensferry,  on  the  opposite  shore  of  Linlithgow. 
In  the  reign  of  James  IV.,  a  fort  was  erected  here, 
which  was  latterly  used  as  a  state  prison  ;  and  this  fort, 
or  another  built  on  its  site,  is  still  remaining  on  the 
summit  of  the  isle,  in  ruins.  Owing  to  the  alarm  occa- 
sioned by  the  appearance  of  Paul  Jones  and  his  squadron 
in  the  Frith,  in  1779,  the  fortifications  were  renewed, 
and  four  twenty-four  pounders  were  mounted  upon 
them  ;  but  they  have  been  since  removed. 

INCHINNAN,  a  parish,  in  the  Upper  ward  of  the 
county  of  Renfrew,  3  miles  (N.)  from  Paisley;  con- 
taining, with  the  hamlets  of  Broomlands  and  Luckens- 
ford,  500  inhabitants.  This  place  derives  its  name, 
signifying  in  the  Gaelic  language  "a  river  island,"  from. 
its  peninsular  situation,  being  almost  surrounded  by  the 
rivers  which  form  its  principal  boundaries.  In  some 
documents  it  is  mentioned  under  the  designation  of 
Killinan,  from  the  circumstance  of  the  site  of  its  church 
being  totally  insulated  by  the  winding  of  one  of  those 
rivers,  of  which,  however,  the  channel  w-as  long  since 
diverted.  The  manor  was  one  of  the  many  grants  con- 
ferred upon  the  ancient  family  of  the  Stuarts,  pre- 
viously to  their  accession  to  the  throne  ;  and  is  parti- 
cularly noticed  in  a  charter  of  Malcolm  IV.,  dated  at 
Roxburgh  in  1158,  in  which  that  monarch  confirms  to 
Walter  Stuart  the  office  of  high  steward  of  Scotland, 
and  the  lands  which  had  been  bestowed  upon  him  by 
David  I.  In  1511,  James  IV.,  by  charter,  granted  to 
Matthew,  Lord  Darnley,  and  second  Earl  of  Lennox, 
the  manor  and  palace  of  Inchinnan,  with  their  depen- 
dencies, all  which,  upon  the  death  of  the  fourth  earl, 
descended  to  his  grandson,  James  VI.,  who  conferred 
them  upon  his  great  uncle,  John,  Lord  D'Aubigny, 
whom  he  also  raised  to  a  dukedom  in  1581.  These 
estates,  again  reverting  to  the  crown,  were,  in  1680, 
given  by  Charles  II.  to  his  natural  son,  Charles,  whom 
he  had  created  Duke  of  Lennox  and  Richmond,  and 
who  sold  them  to  the  Duke  of  Montrose,  from  whom 
they  were  ultimately  purchased  by  the  ancestor  of  Mr. 
Campbell,  of  Blythswood,  the  present  proprietor. 


INCH 


INCH 


The  parish  is  about  three  and  a  half  miles  in  length, 
and  varies  from  three  quarters  of  a  mile  to  something 
more  than  two  miles  in  breadth.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  river  Clyde,  which  separates  it  from  the 
parish  of  Kilpatrick,  in  the  county  of  Dumbarton  ;  on 
the  south  by  the  river  Gryfe,  which  separates  it  from  the 
parish  of  Renfrew  j  on  the  east  by  the  river  Cart,  which 
also  divides  it  from  Renfrew  ;  and  on  the  west,  by  the 
parishes  of  Erskine  and  Houston.  The  surface  rises 
gradually  from  the  rivers  in  a  gentle  acclivity,  in  some 
parts  diversified  with  hills  of  considerable  elevation, 
cultivated  from  the  base  nearly  to  their  summits,  which 
are  crowned  with  plantations,  adding  much  beauty  and 
variety  to  the  scenery,  which  is  also  enlivened  by  the 
different  streams  that  skirt  the  parish.  The  Clyde, 
which  has  been  much  improved  by  the  deepening  of  its 
channel,  affords  some  salmon  ;  and  great  quantities  of 
those  fish  used  formerly  to  be  taken  here.  The  river 
Gryfe  flows  with  a  tranquil  course,  in  a  clear  and  pel- 
lucid stream,  between  banks  richly  diversified,  till  it 
forms  the  boundary  of  the  parish.  It  then  passes 
through  the  grounds  of  Walkingshaw,  receives  the  Black 
Cart,  and,  winding  along  a  level  tract  of  rich  land, 
meanders  round  the  rocky  hill  on  which  the  church 
is  built  :  then,  being  joined  by  the  White  Cart  near  the 
bridge  of  Inchinnan,  it  expands  into  ample  breadth,  and 
continues  its  course  till  it  falls  into  the  Clyde  near 
Blythsvvood.  These  rivers  abound  with  perch,  trout, 
aud  eels  ;  and  in  the  river  Cart,  near  its  confluence  with 
the  Clyde,  is  an  island  occasionally  frequented  by  the 
halcyon  or  kingfisher.  On  the  banks  of  the  Gryfe  and 
other  streams,  snipes,  wild-duck,  and  other  water-fowl 
are  abundant ;  pheasants  and  partridges  are  plentiful, 
and  grouse  is  often  found  on  the  moorlands. 

The  whole  number  of  acres  in  the  parish  is  3060,  of 
which  2600  are  arable  land  in  good  cultivation,  100 
natural  pasture,  and  300  wood.  The  soil  is  generally 
a  stiff  clay  ;  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  a  rich  black 
loam  ;  and  in  the  hill}'  parts,  a  light  sand  and  gravel. 
The  crops  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  tur- 
nips ;  the  system  of  husbandry  is  in  a  very  advanced 
state,  and  great  improvement  has  been  made  in  drain- 
ing and  inclosing  the  lands,  for  the  former  of  which  a 
tile-kiln  till  lately  existed  on  the  lands  of  Blythswood. 
Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  management  of  dairy- 
farms,  and  nearly  300  cows  are  kept  for  that  pur- 
pose, which  are  the  finest  of  the  Ayrshire  breed  : 
few  horses  are  reared  but  such  as  are  employed  in  agri- 
culture, and  these  are  the  Clydesdale.  The  produce  of 
the  dairies  finds  a  ready  market  at  Paisley,  to  which 
town,  also,  and  to  Glasgow,  the  grain  raised  in  the 
parish  is  sent.  The  farm-buildings  are  substantial  and 
commodious,  and,  with  very  few  exceptions,  are  all 
roofed  with  slate.  Considerable  portions  of  the  moor- 
lands have  been  reclaimed,  and  brought  into  cultivation. 
Such  of  them  as  still  remain,  produce  great  quantities 
of  peat,  which  is  used  for  fuel :  and  much  of  the  best 
quality,  which  is  found  on  the  Southbarr  estate,  is  sent 
to  Edinburgh  and  Clackmannan  by  water,  and  to  Glas- 
gow and  Greenock  by  land  carriage,  for  the  supply  of 
the  distilleries.  The  substratum  of  the  soil  is  generally 
a  loose  gravel,  interspersed  with  boulders  of  primary 
and  secondary  rocks,  resting  upon  a  bed  of  carboni- 
ferous rock,  traversed  by  dykes  of  whinstone,  some  of 
which  are  of  great  thickness,  and  alternated  with  grey 
558 


sandstone,  in  which  are  found  occasionally  beautiful 
specimens  of  fossils.  Limestone  and  coal  are  predomi- 
nant ;  and  both  have  been  worked,  especially  the  first, 
to  a  very  considerable  extent.  Whinstone  is  quarried 
for  paving,  and  for  mending  the  roads.  Freestone  of 
very  superior  quality  is  also  quarried  on  the  lands  of 
Park,  whence  was  taken  the  stone  of  which  the  church 
and  the  bridge  of  this  parish  are  built ;  and  from  the 
whin  dykes,  all  the  materials  were  furnished  for  the 
use  of  the  trustees  for  the  improvement  of  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  Clyde.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £6308.  The  principal  seats  are,  Southbarr, 
Park,  and  House  Hill.  There  is  scarcely  any  assemblage 
of  houses  that  deserves  the  name  of  a  village,  the  popu- 
lation being  wholly  agricultural.  The  bridge  over  the 
Gryfe  and  the  White  Cart,  near  their  confluence,  is  an 
elegant  structure  erected  at  an  expense  of  £17,000, 
and  consists  of  two  divisions,  each  spanning  one  of 
those  rivers  :  near  it  is  a  wharf,  to  which  coal  is  brought 
for  the  supply  of  the  inhabitants  ;  and  there  is  another 
bridge  at  Barnsford.  Good  roads  afford  an  easy  com- 
munication with  the  neighbouring  towns  in  different 
directions. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Paisley  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is 
£261  ;  the  manse  is  a  comfortable  residence  of  modern 
erection,  and  the  glebe  comprises  seven  and  a  half  acres 
of  profitable  land,  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The 
incumbent  also  receives  the  revenue  arising  from  a 
piece  of  land  called  Ladyacre,  which,  before  the  Refor- 
mation, was  given  for  the  maintenance  of  an  altar  in 
the  parish  church.  The  old  church  was  a  very  ancient 
building,  supposed  to  have  been  founded  before  the 
reign  of  David  I.,  who  granted  it,  with  all  its  depen- 
dencies, to  the  Knights  Templars,  after  whose  suppres- 
sion it  was  transferred  to  the  Hospitallers,  who  had  a 
preceptory  at  Torphichen,  in  the  county  of  Linlithgow. 
The  last  of  the  superiors,  at  the  dissolution  of  monas- 
teries, laying  aside  his  monastic  office  and  title,  pur- 
chased the  lands  that  had  belonged  to  the  establishment 
from  the  crown,  and  was  created  Lord  Torphichen. 
The  patronage  of  the  church  of  this  place  was  subse- 
quently obtained  by  the  Dukes  of  Lennox  and  Montrose, 
from  whom  it  passed,  by  purchase,  to  the  ancestor  of 
Mr.  Campbell,  in  whom  it  is  at  present  vested.  The 
present  parish  church  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  structure,  in  1829  ;  it  is  a  neat  edifice  in  the 
pointed  style,  with  a  massive  square  tower.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  under  good  regulation,  and  is  attended 
by  about  sixty  scholars  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of 
£34,  with  £24  fees,  and  a  house  and  offices,  a  spacious 
school-room  and  play-ground  for  the  children,  and  half 
an  acre  of  garden.  Agricultural  chemistry  is  taught 
in  this  school.  There  is  a  female  school  of  industry, 
superintended  by  a  mistress,  who  has  a  school-room, 
house,  and  garden  provided  for  her  by  the  heritors, 
and  is  supported  partly  by  fees,  which  are  very  mo- 
derate. The  parish  has  also  two  Sabbath  schools, 
and  a  parochial  library,  containing  a  good  collection 
of  religious  and  historical  works,  to  which  all  the 
parishioners  have  access,  on  payment  of  a  nominal 
subscription.  The  ancient  palace  of  Inchinnan,  which 
was  situated  in  the  northern  portion  of  the  parish,  over- 
looking the  Clyde,  was  built  by  Matthew,  Earl  of  Len- 


INCH 


INCH 


nox,  at  the  commencement  of  the  sixteenth  century  : 
there  are  now  no  remains  of  it,  the  materials  having 
been  used  for  various  purposes  ;  and  no  memorial  is 
preserved  except  the  site.  Silver  and  copper  coins  of 
the  reigns  of  Henry  IV.  of  France,  and  William  and 
Mary  of  England,  were  found  among  the  ruins  of  the 
old  church,  which  was  taken  down  in  1828.  In  the 
churchyard  are  several  tombs,  with  crosses  of  different 
character,  sculptured  on  the  ridges  of  the  covering 
stone  ;  they  are  said  to  have  been  the  tombs  of  Knights 
Templars.  Robert  Law,  author  of  the  Memorials  of 
Scotland,  was  a  native  of  the  parish. 

INCHKEITH,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of  King- 
horn,  district  of  Kirkcaldy,  county  of  Fife,  cl\  miles 
(S.  S.  E.)  from  Kinghorn  :  containing  9  inhabitants. 
This  is  a  rocky  isle,  in  the  Frith  of  Forth,  lying  nearly 
equidistant  between  Kinghorn  and  Leith.  It  derives 
its  name  from  the  gallant  Keith,  who,  in  1010,  so 
greatly  signalised  himself  at  the  battle  of  Barrie,  in 
Forfarshire,  against  the  Danes,  the  island,  with  the 
barony  of  Keith,  being  conferred  upon  him  on  that 
occasion,  as  a  reward  for  his  valour,  by  Malcolm  II. 
In  the  fourteenth  century,  having  fallen  to  the  crown, 
it  was  bestowed,  with  the  lands  of  Kinghorn,  on  Lord 
Glammis  ;  and  the  Strathmore  family  retained  it  until 
1649,  when  it  became  the  property,  by  purchase,  of  Sir 
John  Scott,  of  Scotstarvit.  After  passing  subsequently 
into  the  hands  of  various  persons,  it  at  length  came  to 
the  Dukes  of  Buccleuch,  as  heritors  of  the  parish.  The 
isle  is  above  a  mile  in  length,  and  of  various  breadth,  and 
irregular  surface ;  it  has  excellent  pasturage  for  cattle 
and  sheep,  and  some  patches  of  good  arable  land  ;  with 
fine  springs  of  water,  collected  by  tubes  into  a  tank  for 
the  supply  of  vessels.  On  the  south  side  is  a  small 
quay;  and  a  lighthouse  stands  on  an  elevation  of  ISO 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  is  seen  at  the  distance  of  eigh- 
teen nautical  miles.  At  the  close  of  the  fifteenth  century, 
Inchkeith  was  made  a  place  of  compulsory  retirement 
for  persons  labouring  under  a  loathsome  disease  called 
the  "  grandgore."  It  was  subsequently  an  important 
military  station,  particularly  during  the  regency  of 
Mary  of  Guise,  and  the  reigns  of  the  unfortunate  Queen 
Mary,  and  Charles  I.  of  England. 

INCH-KENNETH,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Kilfin- 
ichen,  county  of  Argyll.  It  lies  in  Loch-na-Keal, 
about  two  miles  east  of  Colonsay,  on  the  western  coast 
of  Mull,  and  twelve  miles  west-by-south  from  Aros. 
It  is  a  pleasant  island,  about  a  mile  long  and  half  a  mile 
broad,  and  having  some  good  laud.  In  1773,  Inch- 
Kenneth  was  the  retreat  of  Sir  Allan  Maclean,  the  chief 
of  his  clan,  who  was  here  visited  by  Johnson  and  Bos- 
well  :  his  residence  is  now  in  ruins.  Some  vestiges  of 
a  chapel  mark  the  site  of  an  ancient  seminary  of  monks, 
dependent  on  the  abbey  of  Iona. 

INCH-LONAIG,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Luss, 
county  of  Dumbarton.  This  islet  is  one  of  a  nume- 
rous group,  beautifully  situated  in  Loch  Lomond,  and 
is  about  a  mile  long  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad,  and 
estimated  to  contain  145  acres,  of  which  a  number  are 
under  wood.  It  lies  equidistant  between  Luss,  on  one 
side  of  the  lake,  and  the  parish  of  Buchanan,  on  the 
opposite  shore  ;  and  has  been  latterly  appropriated  as  a 
deer-park,  by  the  Colquhoun  family,  whose  handsome 
seat  of  Ross  dhu  is  on  the  borders  of  the  lake.  The 
isle  is  remarkable  for  the  number  and  size  of  its  fine  old 
559 


yew-trees,  which   are  of  natural  growth,  and  of  which 
bows  and  arrows  were  formerly  made. 

INCH-MARNOCK,  an  island,  in  the  parish  of 
Rothesay,  and  lying  in  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  2  miles 
(W.)  from  the  Isle  of  Bute.  This  island,  which  is 
situated  opposite  to  St.  Ninian's  Point,  in  the  bay  of 
that  name,  was  anciently  a  settlement  of  Culdee  monks. 
It  was  subsequently  granted  by  Roderick  of  Cantyre  to 
the  monastery  of  Cantyre,  about  the  year  1229,  before 
the  erection  of  Rothesay  into  a  parish,  and  continued  to 
form  a  part  of  that  establishment  till  the  Reformation. 
It  is  two  miles  in  length  and  half  a  mile  in  breadth,, 
and  comprises  560  acres,  of  which  120  are  arable,  and 
the  remainder  moorland  and  pasture.  The  surface  is 
pleasingly  diversified  ;  and  near  the  eastern  shore  are 
the  picturesque  remains  of  an  ancient  chapel  dedicated 
to  St.  Marnock. 

INCH-MICKERY,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Cra- 
mond,  county  of  Edinburgh,  situated  in  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  near  the  isle  and  village  of  Cramond,  and  a  little 
to  the  east  of  luchcolm.  It  is  of  very  small  extent,  not 
being  more  than  a  few  furlongs  in  circumference  ;  and 
is  remarkable  for  a  profusion  of  mosses,  lichens,  and 
long  tangling  sea-weed.  On  its  shores  are  noted  oyster- 
beds. 

INCH-MOAN,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Luss,  county 
of  Dumbarton.  This  isle,  of  which  the  name  signifies 
"  the  Moss  Isle,"  lies  in  Loch  Lomond ;  is  about  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  length  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
breadth;  and  contains  about  100  acres,  mostly  covered 
with  moss,  and  supplying  peat  to  the  village  of  Luss 
and  its  neighbourhood. 

INCH-MURIN,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Buchanan, 
county  of  Stirling,  the  largest  and  most  southern  of 
the  islands  of  the  loch  of  Lomond.  Its  length  is  about 
two  miles  and  its  breadth  one  ;  it  is  finely  wooded,  and 
affords  excellent  pasture.  This  isle  was  the  residence  of 
the  ancient  Earls  of  Lennox  ;  and  at  the  south  end  are 
the  ruins  of  a  castle,  surrounded  by  venerable  oaks,  in 
which  the  noble  family  resided.  It  is  now  the  property 
of  the  Duke  of  Montrose,  and  is  kept  chiefly  as  a  deer- 
park.  In  1793,  the  late  duke  built  a  handsome  hunt- 
ing-seat and  offices  here,  at  present  occupied  by  the 
keeper,  who  cultivates  some  ground  around  the  house. 
From  St.  Murrin,  the  tutelary  saint  of  Paisley,  the 
island  is  said  to  have  derived  its  name. 

INCH-TAVANACH,  an  isle,  in  the  parish  of  Luss, 
county  of  Dumbarton,  one  of  the  numerous  islands  in 
Loch  Lomond,  and  lying  near  the  west  margin  of  the 
lake,  between  Ross-dhu  and  the  village  of  Luss.  The 
name  signifies  "  the  Island  of  the  Monk;"  and  it  ap- 
pears to  have  been  a  place  of  retirement  for  some  con- 
templative hermit.  This  is  the  loftiest  land  in  the  loch, 
and  is  chiefly  composed  of  grey  granite,  with  some 
rocks  of  micaceous  schistus,  and  quantities  of  quartz. 
The  isle  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length  and 
three  furlongs  in  breadth,  and  is  largely  covered  with 
wood  and  heath,  some  out-field  occasionally  producing 
good  crops.     A  family  resides  upon  it. 

INISHAIL,  county  of  Argyll. — See  Glenorchy. 

INCHTURE  and  ROSSIE,  a  parish,  in  the  county 
of  Perth  ;  including  the  villages  of  Baledgarno  and 
Ballindean,  and  containing  765  inhabitants,  of  whom 
243  are  in  the  village  of  Inchture,  13  miles  (E.  by  N.) 
from  Perth.     The  word  Inchture  is  altogether  of  doubt- 


INCH 


INCH 


ful  derivation,  but  is  supposed  by  some  Gaelic  scholars 
to  be  formed  from  the  terms  innis,  "an  island,"  and  ear, 
"  the  east,"  the  eminence  on  which  the  church  and  village 
stand  being  the  most  eastern  of  a  series  of  elevations 
that  were  formerly  islands.  The  parish,  which  compre- 
hends the  ancient  parish  of  Rossie,  now  extinct,  though 
the  ruin  of  the  church  still  remains,  is  situated  on  the 
north-west  of  the  estuary  of  the  Tay,  and  measures  in 
length  four  miles,  from  north  to  south,  and  three  in 
breadth,  comprising  3700  Scotch  acres,  of  which  about 
3200  are  in  tillage  and  pasture,  and  the  remainder  under 
wood.  Being  mostly  in  the  rich  and  fertile  tract  of  the 
Carse  of  Gowrie,  usually  considered  as  the  "  garden  of 
Scotland,"  the  parish  shares  in  all  the  superiority  of 
scenery,  soil,  and  produce  for  which  that  beautiful  dis- 
trict is  so  justly  celebrated.  The  surface  is  consider- 
ably diversified.  On  the  south-east,  where  the  lands 
are  washed  by  the  estuary,  are  extensive  sand-banks, 
which,  at  ebb-tide,  are  seen  stretching  over  several  hun- 
dreds of  acres,  and  which  are  bordered  inland  with  a 
broad  margin  of  sedge  or  reeds.  This  is  succeeded  by 
a  rich  alluvial  plain,  about  twenty  feet  high,  extending 
the  whole  breadth  of  the  parish,  and  reaching  north- 
westerly for  two  or  three  miles.  At  the  extremity  of 
this  plain,  again,  is  the  eminence  ornamented  with  the 
pleasing  village  of  Inchture ;  and  still  further  towards 
the  north-west  appear,  in  succession,  the  hills  known 
by  the  names  of  Rossie,  Baledgarno,  and  Ballindean, 
forming  a  portion  of  the  district  here  called  the  "  braes 
of  the  carse;"  and  the  border  of  the  Sidlaw  range 
rising  about  500  feet  high.  The  parish  is  watered  by 
two  principal  streams  designated  "  pows,"  and  which  are 
augmented  by  numerous  rivulets  descending  from  the 
hills.  The  one  flows  for  a  considerable  distance  along 
the  south-western  boundary,  into  the  Frith  at  Powgavie, 
where  it  forms  the  harbour  of  that  name;  and  the  other, 
towards  the  north,  formed  of  the  burns  of  Baledgarno 
and  Rossie,  partly  separates  the  parish  from  Long- 
forgan,  where  it  reaches  the  Frith.  The  estuary  is  here 
about  three  miles  wide ;  but  at  low  water  the  tide  re- 
cedes to  a  great  distance  from  the  shore,  and  the  sands 
are  marked  by  many  deep  fissures,  called  "water-runs," 
being  channels  for  the  streams.  The  water  of  the  Tay 
is  strongly  impregnated  with  salt,  in  consequence  of 
the  rapidity  of  the  tide,  and  the  large  influx  from  the 
sea. 

The  soil  on  the  level  grounds,  which  constitute  by 
far  the  larger  portion  of  the  parish,  is  a  rich  alluvial 
clay  of  great  depth  ;  the  undulations  and  hills  comprise 
loam,  gravel,  and  sand,  with  a  little  peat,  resting  gene- 
rally on  red  sandstone  or  whinstone.  The  whole  is 
highly  cultivated,  and  presents  one  of  the  finest  speci- 
mens to  be  met  with  of  agricultural  skill.  All  kiuds  of 
crops  are  raised  :  the  rotation  followed  on  about  two- 
thirds  of  the  grounds  is  the  seven-shift,  and  in  the  re- 
mainder the  six-shift  course  is  followed.  A  large  part 
of  the  district  in  which  the  parish  is  situated  being  a 
corn  country,  the  rearing  of  cattle  has  hitherto  been  a 
subordinate  consideration ;  but  much  more  attention 
is  now  paid  to  it  than  formerly ;  and  Leicester  sheep, 
and  the  Ayrshire  and  Teeswater  stock  of  cattle,  have 
been  to  some  extent  introduced,  as  well  as  an  improved 
breed  of  horses.  Most  of  the  farms  have  been  thoroughly 
drained  ;  the  reclaiming  of  laud  overflowed  by  the  tide 
is  going  on  with  spirit ;  and  many  embankments  have 
560 


been  raised.  Though  the  inclosures  at  present  are  prin- 
cipally in  the  upper  portion  of  the  parish,  numerous 
hedge-rows  have  been  planted,  and  palings  erected,  on 
the  lower  grounds ;  and  the  farm-houses  and  buildings 
are,  in  general,  in  good  condition.  In  1S3S,  a  thresh- 
ing-mill driven  by  steam,  the  only  one  of  the  kind  in 
the  parish,  was  erected  on  Lord  Kinnaird's  property  at 
Powgavie.  The  substratum  of  the  lower  parts  consists 
of  red  sandstone,  and  the  hills  of  whinstone,  of  each  of 
which  several  quarries  are  in  operation.  There  is  lime- 
stone, but  not  at  present  worked  ;  and  the  locality 
contains  several  veins  of  copper,  which,  however,  have 
never  been  wrought :  valuable  pebbles,  also,  and  various 
minerals,  have  occasionally  been  found.  The  planta- 
tions, with  the  exception  of  the  ornamental  portions, 
are  chiefly  on  the  hills,  and  comprise  oak,  ash,  elm, 
beech,  birch,  larch,  and  other  kinds.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £8011. 

Rossie  Priory,  situated  on  the  slope  of  Rossie  hill, 
and  commanding  most  extensive  and  beautiful  views, 
was  built  chiefly  by  the  late  Lord  Kinnaird,  in  1S07;  it 
is  a  very  superior  mansion,  erected  with  stone  from  the 
quarries  on  the  estate,  and  has  been  much  enlarged  and 
improved  by  the  present  noble  proprietor,  whose  an- 
cestor, in  the  twelfth  century,  obtained  a  grant  of  the 
lands  here  from  William  the  Lion.  The  only  other 
mansion  is  a  modern  edifice,  named  Ballindean  House, 
and  situated  near  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  the  same  name. 
The  village  of  Inchture  is  famed  for  its  excellent  beer  ; 
and  from  its  brewery  are  sent,  weekly,  large  supplies  to 
Perth,  Dundee,  Cupar-Angus,  and  all  parts  of  the  sur- 
rounding district.  The  parish  also  contains,  besides 
several  hamlets,  the  villages  of  Baledgarno  and  Ballin- 
dean. The  former  is  supposed  to  have  been  so  called 
from  Edgar,  who  came  to  the  throne  at  the  beginning 
of  the  eleventh  century,  and  whose  name  is  contained 
in  the  two  middle  syllables  :  his  castle  was  on  an  ad- 
joining hill,  still  called  Castle  hill,  though  no  remains 
of  the  building  are  now  visible.  The  manufacture  of 
linen  is  carried  on  in  the  parish  in  private  houses  ;  the 
article  produced  is  a  very  coarse  fabric  for  sacks  or 
packing.  The  population,  however,  are  almost  all  agri- 
cultural, and  have  somewhat  diminished  in  number 
within  the  last  few  years,  in  consequence  of  the  con- 
solidation of  some  of  the  smaller  farms.  There  is  a 
general  post-office  established  at  Inchture ;  and  the 
high  road  between  Edinburgh  and  Aberdeen  by  way  of 
Perth  and  Dundee,  passes  through  the  parish.  The 
harbour  of  Powgavie,  or  Polgavie,  forms  the  chief  point 
of  traffic  :  a  considerable  number  of  vessels  come  laden 
with  coal,  lime,  manure,  seeds,  and  grain,  and  carry 
away  farm  produce,  especially  corn  and  potatoes,  wood, 
fruits,  &c.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dundee 
and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns,  and  in  the  patronage 
of  the  Crown  :  the  minister's  stipend  is  £200,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  of  ten  acres,  valued  at  £30  per  an- 
num. The  church,  conveniently  situated  in  the  middle 
of  the  principal  village,  was  built  in  1S35,  of  red  sand- 
stone from  a  quarry  in  the  vicinity.  The  parochial 
school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual  branches ;  the 
master  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  dwelling-house,  and 
£27  fees.  On  the  borders  of  the  parish  is  a  large 
stone,  supposed  by  some  to  be  that  on  which  the  falcon 
alighted  when  boundaries  were  assigned  to  the  lands 
given  to  the  gallant  Hay  and  his  two  sons,  after  the 


I  N  N  E 


INNE 


celebrated  battle  of  Luncarty.  The  other  antiquities 
comprise  chiefly  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Moncur,  the 
cross  formerly  surrounded  by  the  village  of  Rossie,  and 
the  interesting  remains  of  the  old  church  of  that  name, 
now  overgrown  with  ivy  and  ash. 

INNERKIP,  a  parish,  in  the  Lower  ward  of  the 
county  of  Renfrew  ;  including  the  village  of  Gourock, 
and  containing  3420  inhabitants,  of  whom  431  are  in 
the  village  of  Innerkip,  6  miles  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from 
Greenock.  This  parish,  of  which  the  name,  originally 
Inverkip,  is  derived  from  its  situation  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Kip,  formerly  included  the  old  parish  of 
Greenock,  which  was  separated  from  it  in  1589,  by 
charter,  obtained  by  Sir  John  Shaw,  of  Wester  Greenock, 
and  ratified  by  parliament  in  1594.  The  present  parish, 
which  is  about  seven  miles  in  length  and  six  in  breadth, 
is  bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  the  Frith  of  Clyde, 
on  the  east  by  the  parish  of  Greenock,  and  on  the  south 
by  the  parish  of  Largs,  in  the  county  of  Ayr.  The 
coast  is  indented  with  several  bays,  of  which  the  prin- 
cipal are,  Gourock  on  the  north,  and  Lunderston,  Inner- 
kip, and  Wemyss,  on  the  west.  The  surface  has  a 
gradual  ascent  from  the  shore  towards  the  south-east, 
and  is  beautifully  diversified  with  level  plains  and  gentle 
undulations,  and  intersected  by  small  rivulets,  flowing 
in  some  parts  through  verdant  meadows,  and  in  others 
disappearing  in  thickly  wooded  glens.  The  principal 
rivers  are  the  Kip  and  the  Duff,  which  latter  forms  a 
confluence  with  the  Kip  near  its  influx  into  the  bay  of 
Innerkip.  The  soil  along  the  shore  is  light  and  sandy, 
in  the  higher  grounds  of  heavier  quality,  but  much  in- 
termixed with  gravel.  The  whole  number  of  acres  has 
not  been  ascertained  :  more  than  half  the  parish  is 
moorland,  of  which  a  considerable  part  is  undivided 
common ;  there  is  a  large  extent  of  natural  meadow 
and  pasture  ;  and  but  a  small  proportion  is  arable,  the 
farmers  relying  more  upon  the  produce  of  the  dairy,  for 
which  they  find  profitable  markets,  than  on  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  soil.  Considerable  improvement  has,  not- 
withstanding, been  made  in  the  system  of  agriculture  ; 
furrow-draining  has  been  adopted  with  success,  and 
some  small  portions  of  waste  land  have  been  reclaimed. 
The  rocks  are  principally  of  the  old  red  sandstone  for- 
mation, and  towards  Wemyss  bay  are  intersected  with 
trap  :  in  the  upper  part  of  the  parish,  sandstone  of  fine 
quality  has  been  extensively  quarried  for  building.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  Innerkip  is  £14,205. 

The  scenery  throughout  is  pleasingly  diversified  ;  and 
the  higher  grounds  embrace  extensive  and  interesting 
prospects.  Ardgowan  House,  the  seat  of  Sir  Michael 
Robert  Shaw  Stewart,  is  an  elegant  mansion,  beautifully 
situated  on  the  shore  near  Innerkip  bay,  embosomed  in 
thriving  plantations,  and  commanding  a  fine  view  over 
the  Frith  of  Clyde.  Kelly,  the  seat  of  the  family  of 
Wallace,  is  also  a  handsome  mansion,  on  the  shore  of 
Wemyss  bay,  and  embellished  with  plantations.  There 
are  several  other  good  houses  belonging  to  different 
proprietors.  The  village  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  Kip,  near  its  influx  into  the  Clyde  ;  it 
is  chiefly  inhabited  by  fishermen,  and  is  much  frequented 
during  the  season  for  sea-bathing.  There  are  some  well- 
furnished  houses  for  the  accommodation  of  visiters ; 
and  a  post-office,  subordinate  to  that  of  Greenock,  has 
been  established  here.  Facility  of  communication  is 
afforded  by  an  excellent  turnpike-road  from  Greenock, 
Vol.  I.— 561 


recently  completed.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Greenock  and 
synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr.  The  minister's  stipend  is 
£278.  14.  6.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  four  acres  ; 
patron,  Sir  Michael  Robert  Shaw  Stewart.  The  parish 
church  is  a  neat  modern  structure,  containing  sufficient 
accommodation  for  the  population.  A  church  has  been 
erected  in  the  district  of  Gourock,  of  which  an  account 
will  be  found  under  the  head  of  Gourock.  The  paro- 
chial school  is  well  attended  ;  the  master  has  a  salary 
of  £30.  15.,  but  no  house,  and  the  fees  average  £26  per 
annum.  On  the  lands  of  Ardgowan  are  some  remains 
of  the  ancient  mansion-house,  consisting  of  a  venerable 
tower ;  and  over  the  Dunrod  rivulet  is  a  very  antique 
bridge. 

INNERLEITHEN,  a  parish,  chiefly  in  the  county 
of  Peebles,  but  partly  in  the  county  of  Selkirk,  6^ 
miles  (E.  S.  E.)  from  Peebles;  containing  931  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  463  are  in  the  village,  and  468  in  the 
rural  districts  of  the  parish.  This  place,  properly  Inver- 
leithen,  derives  its  name  from  one  of  the  numerous 
streams  that  flow  through  the  lands  into  the  river 
Tweed.  The  parish  comprises  about  30, COO  acres,  of 
which  2000  are  arable,  500  woodland  and  plantations, 
30  in  brushwood,  and  the  remainder,  of  which  probably 
1500  might  be  brought  into  profitable  cultivation,  hilly 
pasture.  Its  form  is  that  of  a  triangle,  of  which  the 
longest  side  extends  along  the  river  Tweed,  and  the  two 
other  sides  meet  in  the  ridge  of  mountains  called  the 
Moorfoot  hills  :  the  highest  hills  in  this  range  are  the 
Hartfell,  Coomb,  and  Loch  Craig,  far  off  to  the  south, 
and  having  an  elevation  of  about  2S00  feet.  The 
surface  along  the  shore  of  the  Tweed  spreads  into  a 
rich  and  fertile  plain,  and  in  other  parts  is  intersected 
with  numerous  deep  glens,  watered  by  running  streams : 
of  these  glens  the  most  spacious  is  that  through  which 
the  Leithen  flows,  and  which  contains  a  considerable 
portion  of  level  meadow  land.  There  are  many  springs 
in  the  parish,  some  of  which  possess  highly  medicinal 
properties  ;  the  principal  is  that  issuing  from  the  base 
of  a  hill  near  the  village,  which  from  that  circumstance 
has  obtained  its  rapid  increase.  The  scenery  is  strik- 
ingly varied,  and  in  parts  very  picturesque.  From  the 
farm  of  Purves  Hill,  which  has  a  considerable  elevation, 
is  a  descent  towards  the  river,  by  a  continued  succes- 
sion of  terraces,  about  200  yards  in  length  and  eighteen 
feet  broad,  divided  into  several  series  by  unequal  inter- 
vals of  level  ground.  These  terraces,  as  seen  from  the 
lands  below,  form  a  singular  feature  in  the  landscape ; 
and  some  timber  of  mature  growth,  and  various  thriving 
plantations  on  some  of  the  lands  in  the  parish,  add 
much  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  The  soil  near  the 
river  is  rich  and  fertile,  but  in  the  higher  grounds  of 
inferior  quality,  abounding  with  heath  and  moss.  The 
crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  peas,  and  turnips  ;  the 
system  of  husbandry  is  advanced;  the  farm-buildings 
are  substantial  and  commodious,  and  the  lands  are  well 
inclosed.  About  400  head  of  cattle  are  annually  reared, 
and  much  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  improvement 
of  the  breed,  originally  the  old  Tweeddale,  by  the  intro- 
duction of  the  Alderney  and  Northumberland:  16,000 
sheep,  also,  are  annually  pastured,  which  are  chiefly  of 
the  black-faced  and  Cheviot  breeds.  Few  horses  are 
reared,  except  for  purposes  of  agriculture.  The  woods 
consist  of  oak,  ash,  elm,  hazel,   and  birch ;   and  the 

4  C 


I  N  N  E 


I  NN  E 


plantations,  of  larch  and  firs,  intermixed  with  the  usual 
hard-woods.  The  substrata  are,  greywacke,  greywacke- 
slate,  clay-slate,  .and  porphyry  of  red  and  grey  colour, 
the  last  of  which  abounds  with  crystals  of  felspar.  Slate 
has  been  quarried  in  several  parts ;  and  a  quarry  at 
Hollylee,  which  had  long  been  abandoned,  has  again 
been  opened  by  the  proprietor,  and  the  produce  used 
for  paving  the  halls  of  his  mansion.  The  rateable  an- 
nual value  of  the  parish  is  £7072,  of  which  £S1S  are 
returned  for  the  Selkirkshire  portion. 

The  chief  houses  are  Glen-Ormiston  and  Hollylee, 
which  are  both  spacious  and  handsome  structures,  finely 
situated,  and  embellished  with  thriving  plantations.  The 
village,  which,  as  ahead}'  stated,  is  indebted  for  its  in- 
crease to  the  mineral  water  of  Innerleithen,  is  neatly 
built ;  and  several  good  houses  have  been  erected  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  numerous  visiters  who,  during 
the  summer,  take  up  their  residence  here  for  the  benefit 
of  the  water,  which  is  found  efficacious  in  various  com- 
plaints. The  water,  on  being  analysed,  is  found  to  con- 
tain, in  one  imperial  quart,  5'3  grains  of  carbonate  of 
magnesia,  9'5  grains  of  muriate  of  lime,  and  21-2  grains 
of  muriate  of  soda.  The  spring  issues  from  a  mountain 
composed  of  greywacke,  clay-slate,  and  red  porphyry ; 
and  there  is  a  second  spring,  which  varies  a  little  in  the 
proportions  of  its  ingredients,  containing  10"12  grains 
of  carbonate  of  magnesia,  19"4  of  muriate  of  lime,  and 
31*  of  muriate  of  soda.  A  handsome  building  has  been 
erected,  with  a  viranda  in  front,  for  the  use  of  the  visi- 
ters ;  and  the  village  is  growing  into  some  repute  as  a 
watering-place.  A  circulating  library,  which  contained 
a  well-assorted  collection,  was  once  supported  by  sub- 
scription ;  attached  to  it  was  a  commodious  reading  and 
news  room.  A  club  has  been  formed  for  the  promotion 
of  gymnastic  exercises,  under  the  patronage  of  several 
noblemen  and  gentlemen  of  the  district ;  and  is  sup- 
ported with  much  spirit.  The  woollen  manufacture  was 
introduced  here  about  fifty  years  since,  by  Mr.  Brodie, 
of  Traquair,  who  erected  a  large  factory  for  that  pur- 
pose, which,  after  his  decease,  was  let  to  several  tenants, 
by  whom  the  various  departments  of  the  trade  are  still 
carried  on,  affording  employment  to  fifty  persons. 
Facility  of  intercourse  with  Peebles,  the  nearest  market 
town,  and  with  the  other  towns  in  the  district,  is  af- 
forded by  good  roads,  of  which  the  turnpike-road  from 
Kelso  to  Glasgow  passes  for  nearly  ten  miles  along  the 
shores  of  the  Tweed.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Peebles  and 
synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  patron,  John  Booth, 
Esq.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is  £231 ;  the  manse 
is  a  comfortable  residence,  and  the  glebe  comprises 
twelve  acres,  valued  at  £20  per  annum.  The  church, 
built  in  17S6,  is  a  neat  substantial  edifice,  conveniently 
situated,  and  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  350  persons. 
The  members  of  the  Free  Church  have  a  place  of  wor- 
ship. The  parochial  school  is  well  attended  ;  the  mas- 
ter has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house  and  garden,  and 
the  fees  average  about  £40.  There  is  a  friendly  society, 
which  is  well  supported,  and  has  contributed  materially 
to  diminish  the  number  of  applications  for  parochial 
relief. 

INNERWICK,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Hadding- 
ton, 4  miles   (S.  E.  by  S.)   from  Dunbar;   containing, 
with  the  hamlet  of  Skateraw,  and  village  of  Thornton- 
loch,  961  inhabitants,  of  whom  144  are  in  the  village  of 
562 


Inner  wick.  This  place,  of  which  the  name,  of  Gaelic 
origin,  is  descriptive  of  its  relative  position,  was  granted 
by  David  I.  to  Walter  Stewart,  to  whom  the  gift  was 
confirmed  by  Malcolm  IV.,  in  1157  ;  and  it  remained  in 
the  possession  of  his  descendants  till  the  reign  of  Charles 
II.  of  England.  It  afterwards  passed  to  the  Hamiltons, 
and  idtimately  to  Sir  Peter  Wedderburn,  of  Gosford, 
ancestor  of  the  present  proprietor.  The  parish,  which 
is  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  varies  from  two  to 
three  miles  in  breadth,  is  bounded  on  the  north-east  by 
the  German  Ocean,  and  comprises  11,725  acres,  of 
which  5040  are  arable,  6300  meadow  and  pasture,  and 
378  woodland  and  plantations.  The  surface  is  varied 
with  fertile  vales  and  deep  dells,  and,  from  the  shore, 
rises  gently  towards  the  Lammermoor  hills  :  the  coast, 
which  extends  for  about  two  miles,  is  rocky,  but  marked 
with  few  features  of  grandeur.  The  scenery  is  pleasing, 
and  in  some  places  enriched  with  wood  :  that  part  of  the 
parish  bordering  upon  the  hills  is  characterized  by  pic- 
turesque beauty.  The  lands  are  watered  by  two  small 
streams,  of  which  one,  called  the  Monynut,  rises  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and,  taking  a  south-eastern 
course,  falls  into  the  Whiteadder  at  St.  Bathan's  Abbey, 
in  the  county  of  Berwick.  The  other,  called  the  Thorn- 
ton water,  rises  also  near  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and, 
flowing  in  a  direction  from  south  to  north,  falls  into 
the  sea  near  the  village  of  Thorntonloch. 

The  soil  is  generally  fertile,  consisting  of  a  deep  rich 
loam ;  the  crops  are,  oats,  wheat,  barley,  peas,  beans, 
potatoes,  and  turnips.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  in 
a  very  advanced  state  ;  and  the  course  of  husbandry  on 
the  lighter  soils  is  a  five,  and  on  the  heavier  a  six,  shift 
course.  Lime  and  bone-dust  are  the  principal  manures. 
The  farm-houses  and  offices  are  substantial  and  well 
arranged  ;  and  the  lands  are  inclosed,  partly  with  stone, 
and  partly  with  hedges  of  thorn,  all  of  which  are  kept  in 
good  order  :  most  of  the  farms  are  also  furnished  with 
threshing-mills,  some  driven  by  steam,  others  by  water. 
Much  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  live  stock,  for 
which  the  extent  of  natural  pasture  affords  abundant 
opportunity.  About  5000  sheep  are  fed  in  the  hilly 
district,  and  a  large  number,  also,  are  pastured  on  the 
lower  lands  ;  the  former  are  chiefly  of  the  Cheviot  and 
black-faced  breeds,  with  occasionally  a  cross  between 
the  two  ;  the  latter  are  the  Leicestershire.  Very  few 
black  cattle  are  reared  ;  but  a  considerable  number  are 
purchased,  and  fattened  for  the  markets.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £10,384.  The  woods  are 
mostly  oak,  and  the  plantations  fir ;  some  of  the  trees 
are  of  very  ancient  growth  ;  and  from  the  names  of 
several  places,  it  would  appear  that  the  lands  were  for- 
merly covered  with  extensive  woods.  The  substrata  of 
the  higher  portion  of  the  parish  are,  greywacke,  grey- 
wacke slate,  and  red  sandstone  intersected  with  veins  of 
trap  rock  ;  and  of  the  lower,  limestone,  ironstone,  bitu- 
minous shale,  and  indications  of  coal,  which  last  appears 
to  have  been  formerly  worked.  The  limestone,  which  is 
of  excellent  quality,  is  quarried  at  the  Skateraw  shore, 
where  is  also  a  kiln  for  burning  it  into  lime  for  manure. 
Great  quantities  of  limestone  were  formerly  sent  from 
these  quarries  to  the  Devon  iron-works  ;  at  present,  it 
is  burnt  here,  and  then  sent  chiefly  to  Berwickshire. 
Freestone  of  good  quality  for  building  is  also  found  in 
the  parish,  but  is  worked  only  as  occasion  requires.  A 
small  harbour  was   constructed   on  the  Skateraw  shore, 


I  N  S  C 


I  N  S  C 


some  years  since,  for  the  exportation  of  the  produce  of 
the  quarries,  and  for  the  importation  of  coal  ;  and 
belonging  to  it  are  two  boats,  employed  in  the  fishery 
off  the  coast,  where  haddock,  mackarel,  lobsters,  and 
other  fish  are  taken.  The  village  of  Innerwick  is  situ- 
ated about  a  mile  from  the  London  road,  which  passes 
through  the  parish  ;  it  consists  of  irregularly  built  and 
detached  houses,  on  the  base  of  a  steep,  but  richly  cul- 
tivated, hill.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  employed  in 
agriculture,  and  in  the  trades  requisite  for  the  supply  of 
the  parish.  The  nearest  market  town  is  Dunbar,  with 
which,  and  with  other  places  in  the  district,  the  people 
have  facilities  of  intercourse  by  good  roads. 

The  church  of  Innerwick,  together  with  its  revenues, 
was  granted  by  Walter  Stewart  to  the  abbey  of  Paisley, 
which  gift  was  confirmed  by  Malcolm  IV.,  in  the  12th 
century ;  it  of  course  ceased  to  belong  to  the  monks  at 
the  Reformation,  and  in  16/0  the  great  and  small  tithes 
were  granted  to  Sir  Patrick  Wedderburn.  The  parish  is 
now  in  the  presbytery  of  Dunbar  and  synod  of  Lothian 
and  Tweeddale,  and  in  the  patronage  of  Mrs.  Ferguson  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £577.  19.,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum.  The  church,  situated 
on  an  eminence,  in  the  village  of  Innerwick,  is  a  neat 
plain  edifice,  erected  in  1784.  The  members  of  the  Free 
Church  have  a  place  of  worship.  The  parochial  school, 
also  situated  in  the  village,  is  well  attended  ;  the  master 
has  a  salary  of  £31,  with  £33  fees,  and  a  house  and 
garden.  There  is  a  parochial  library  in  the  village  ;  and 
at  Thorntonloeh,  a  small  itinerating  library.  The  poor 
are  partly  supported  by  the  interest  of  £S00,  vested  in 
securities.  There  are  some  remains  of  the  ancient  castle 
of  Innerwick,  formerly  the  baronial  residence  of  the 
Stewarts,  and  afterwards  of  the  Hamiltons.  In  1403, 
when  occupied  by  an  English  garrison,  it  was  assaulted 
and  taken  by  the  Regent,  the  Duke  of  Albany  ;  and, 
together  with  Thornton  Castle,  which  stood  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  glen,  it  was  attacked  by  the  Pro- 
tector Somerset,  on  his  invasion  of  Scotland.  The  re- 
mains are  now  very  slight,  and  are  rapidly  disappearing. 
At  a  short  distance  from  the  castle  are  some  small  re- 
mains of  Edinkens  Bridge,  the  origin  of  which  is  in- 
volved in  obscurity :  near  it  were  four  large  stones, 
apparently  indicating  the  tomb  of  some  distinguished 
person,  supposed  to  have  been  Edwin  of  Northumbria, 
who  took  refuge  with  Malcolm  III.,  from  the  tyranny  of 
William  the  Conqueror.  Several  stone  coffins  have  been 
found  in  the  parish,  in  two  of  which  were  a  ring  and 
part  of  a  sword :  and  near  the  village  is  a  field  called 
Corsikill  Park,  in  which  tradition  records  a  conflict  to 
have  taken  place  between  Cospatrick  and  William  Wal- 
lace. On  the  Skateraw  shore  was  an  ancient  chapel 
dedicated  to  St.  Dennys,  the  remains  of  which  have, 
within  the  last  few  years,  been  completely  destroyed  by 
encroachments  of  the  sea. 

INNISKENNETH.— See  Inch-Kenneth,  and  Kil- 

FINICHEN. 

INSCH,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Garioch,  county 
of  Aberdeen,  3f-  miles  (W.)  from  Old  Rain  ;  contain- 
ing 1379  inhabitants.  The  word  Insch,  or  Inch,  is  of 
Celtic  derivation,  and  signifies  "  an  island,"  its  applica- 
tion to  this  place  having  probably  been  occasioned  by  the 
site  of  the  village  being  formerly  surrounded  by  water. 
The  parish  is  situated  on  the  northern  bank  of  the 
small  river  Shevock,  which  separates  it  from  the  parishes 
563 


of  Premnay  and  Kinnethmont,  and,  running  eastward, 
falls  at  length  into  the  Urie.  The  lands  measure  in 
length  six  miles,  and  three  in  breadth,  comprising  7618 
acres,  of  which  5410  are  under  cultivation,  108  in  plan- 
tation, and  the  remainder  waste.  The  surface  is  much 
varied  by  several  interesting  elevations.  That  of  the 
hill  of  Foudland  is  the  most  lofty,  forming  the  chief  of  a 
series  of  slate  hills  stretching  on  the  west  into  Gartly, 
and  into  Culsamond  on  the  east;  it  rises  1100  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  commands  extensive  and 
beautiful  prospects,  especially  of  the  rich  and  fertile  vale 
of  the  Garioch.  The  hill  of  Dunnideer,  however,  about 
a  mile  west  of  the  village,  though  only  half  the  height  of 
the  former,  is  by  far  the  most  striking  object  in  the 
scenery,  not  only  on  account  of  its  insulated  situation, 
and  its  ample  base,  measuring  3000  yards  in  circum- 
ference, but  especially  from  its  abrupt  and  almost  per- 
pendicular ascent,  and  its  conical  form.  The  summit, 
somewhat  flattened,  attracts  the  antiquary  by  the  curious 
ruins  on  it,  and  the  tourist  by  its  picturesque  beauty. 
Opposite  to  it,  on  the  west,  is  the  equally  abrupt  emi- 
nence of  Christ-kirk,  in  the  parish  of  Kinnethmont, 
which  is  separated  from  Dunnideer  only  by  a  narrow 
valley,  watered  by  the  Shevoek. 

The  soil  in  general  is  a  light  loam,  upon  a  gravelly 
or  clayey  subsoil ;  but  on  the  sides  of  the  hill  of  Foud- 
land it  is  a  clay,  mixed  with  slaty  earth  ;  and  here,  as 
well  as  in  various  other  parts,  are  peat  mosses,  supply- 
ing fuel.  Most  of  these,  however,  have  become  nearly 
exhausted,  so  that  wood  and  coal  are  now  much  used, 
the  latter  brought  from  Aberdeen,  by  canal,  to  Inverury. 
Much  of  the  arable  land  is  of  superior  quality,  and  pro- 
duces excellent  crops,  chiefly  of  oats.  The  cattle  are  of 
the  Aberdeen  or  the  Angus  kind,  which  are  frequently 
crossed  with  the  short-horned  or  Durham  breed ;  and 
the  improvement  in  the  stock  has  been  considerable,  in 
consequence  of  the  great  encouragement  offered  by  the 
cattle-shows  held  by  the  Highland  and  the  local  agricul- 
tural societies.  The  six  years  rotation  is  that  most  pre- 
valent ;  and  the  general  system  of  husbandry  includes 
all  the  modern  improvements  :  bone-manure  is  liberally 
and  successfully  applied  to  the  turnip  lands  ;  and  thresh- 
ing machines,  generally  driven  by  water,  are  every  where 
in  operation.  The  chief  deficiency  is  the  want  of  in- 
closures  and  of  good  farm-buildings.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5334.  The  chief  lands 
belong  to  J.  M.  Lesly,  Esq.,  of  Balquhain,  who  holds  the 
estates  called  the  Barony  of  Meikle-Wardhouse,  Knock- 
enbaird,  and  others,  and  whose  ancestors  once  possessed 
the  larger  part  of  this  parish,  and  also  lands  in  several 
others  in  the  district  of  Garioch. 

The  slate  of  the  Foudland  hill  quarries,  an  excellent 
material  of  blue  colour,  has  long  been  highly  celebrated, 
and  wrought  to  a  great  extent.  900,000  slates  were 
once  annually  raised,  a  large  proportion  of  which  were 
sent  to  Aberdeen  ;  but  not  more  than  half  this  number 
are  now  produced,  the  demand  having  diminished  on 
account  of  the  facility  with  which  the  Easdale  slates, 
from  Argyllshire,  can  be  conveyed  by  sea.  The  rock  in 
the  smaller  hills  is  principally  gneiss,  with  black  or  grey 
granite  ;  and  on  the  low  grounds,  near  the  base  of  Dun- 
nideer, considerable  quantities  of  bog-iron  ore  have  been 
found.  The  only  gentleman's  seat  is  Rothney,  a  hand- 
some modern  mansion  in  the  cottage  style,  finely  situ- 
ated on  a  gentle  acclivitv  on  the  northern  bank   of  the 

4  C  2 


1  N  SC 


I  N  V  E 


Shevock,  beautifully  ornamented  with  wood,  and  the 
approach  to  which  from  the  village  is  particularly  ad- 
mired. The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  engaged  in  agricul- 
tural occupations,  and  in  trading  in  corn  and  cattle  ;  a 
few  are  employed  in  making  stockings  for  the  Aberdeen 
manufacturers.  The  feuars  of  Insch  are  heritable  pro- 
prietors of  their  houses  and  small  gardens ;  they  also 
mostly  rent  about  four  acres  of  ground  each,  under  Sir 
Andrew  Leith  Ha3r,  superior  of  the  ancient  burgh  of 
Insch,  to  which  it  is  supposed,  from  a  mound  near  the 
village,  called  the  Gallow  hill,  was  formerly  attached 
the  power  of  "  pot  and  gallows."  The  houses  are  regu- 
larly built,  and  are  in  general  of  two  stories,  constructed 
of  stone  and  lime.  There  are  several  good  shops, 
chiefly  for  the  sale  of  necessaries  ;  and  these,  as  well  as 
the  dwelling-houses,  have  been  for  some  years  lighted 
with  gas.  The  mail  road  from  Aberdeen  passes  through 
the  parish,  to  the  north  side  of  the  Foudland  hill,  from 
which  two  lines  diverge  to  Huntly,  the  one  forming  a 
route  over  the  western  part  of  the  hill,  and  the  other  a 
longer  and  more  irregular,  but  more  level,  one,  through 
Kinnethmont  and  Gartly.  The  traffic  on  these  roads 
is  considerable,  the  country  produce  being  conveyed 
along  them  to  the  canal  at  Inverury,  from  which  place 
the  carts  bring  home,  on  their  return,  coal,  lime,  and 
bones  for  manure.  Two  fairs  for  cattle,  horses,  and 
general  wares,  are  held  respectively  on  the  third  Wed- 
nesday in  May  and  third  Tuesday  in  October,  both  Old 
style ;  and  there  are  feeing-markets  on  the  Fridays 
before  the  ISth  May  and  18th  November.  The  weekly 
market,  held  on  Friday,  has  disappeared. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Garioch  and  synod 
of  Aberdeen,  and  in  the  patronage  of  Sir  John  Forbes, 
Bart.     The  minister's  stipend  is  £204,  with  a  manse,  a 
glebe  of  twelve  acres,  valued  at  £15,  and  a  right  to  fuel, 
which  has  been  commuted  for  an  annual  payment  of 
£9.  8.  10.     The  church,  a  plain  building,  standing  in 
the  village,  is  supposed,  from  the  date  of  1613  on  its 
fine  old  belfry,  to  have  been  built  in  that  year  ;   it  was 
well-roofed  in  1789,  and  new-seated  in  1793,  and  con- 
tains 460  sittings,  of  which  sixty  are  under  the  controul 
of  the  Kirk  Session,  and  are  let  on  very  low  terms  for 
the  benefit  of  the    poor.      The    members   of  the   Free 
Church  have  a  place  of  worship.     The  parochial  school 
affords  instruction  in  Greek,  Latin,  English  grammar, 
geography,  and  mathematics,  in  addition  to  the  ordi- 
nary branches  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £27,  with  a 
house  and  garden,   and   about  £15  fees  :  he  also  par- 
ticipates in  the  benefit  of  the  Dick  bequest.     There  is 
likewise  a  school  supported  by  the  General  Assembly, 
the  master  of  which  receives  a  salary  of  £25,  with  £14 
fees,  and  has  a  house,  garden,  and  three  acres  of  ground. 
The  same  branches  are  taught  as  in  the  parochial  school; 
and  its  situation  among  the  glens  of  Foudland,  conve- 
nient for  parts,  not  only  of  Insch,  but  of  the  parishes 
of  Forgue,  Drumblade,  and  Gartly,  all  far  removed  from 
their  respective  parochial  schools,  renders  it  a  source  of 
much  advantage.     A  savings'  bank  has  also  existed  for 
some  years.     The  relics  of  antiquity  comprise  several 
Druidical  remains,  on  eminences,  and  stone  pillars,  and 
obelisks  ;  but  the  principal  one  is  the  celebrated  vitri- 
fied fort  on  the  hill  of  Dunnideer.     It  consists  of  an 
outwork  in  the  shape  of  a  parallelogram,  inclosing  an 
old  ruin  of  a  tower ;  and  the  stones,  which  are  of  gra- 
nite, have  been  cemented  by  that  singular  process  seen 
564 


in  similar  antiquities  in  the  country,  but  of  the  precise 
character  of  which  many  opinions  exist.  A  castle  in 
the  interior,  constructed  apparently  of  the  materials  of 
the  vitrified  fort,  is  supposed  by  some  to  have  been 
built  by  King  Gregory. 

INSH,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  formed  of  part 
of  the  parish  of  Kingussie,  and  a  small  part  of  that  of 
Alvie,  in  the  county  of  Inverness;  containing  613  in- 
habitants, of  whom  88  are  in  the  village  of  Insh,  7  miles 
(N.  E.)  from  Pitmain.  This  place  was  anciently  a  vica- 
rage, united  to  the  rectory  of  Kingussie;  and  by  act  of 
the  General  Assembly  in  1S33,  was  again  declared  a  dis- 
tinct parish,  ecclesiastically,  which  privilege,  however,  it 
has  ceased  to  possess.  It  is  situated  on  the  south  bank 
of  the  Spey  ;  and  when  the  river  swells,  a  branch  of  it 
flows  on  each  side  of  a  small  hill  whereon  the  church 
stands :  hence  the  name  of  Insh,  signifying  an  island.  The 
Spey  passes  here  through  a  fine  lake  called  Loch  Insh, 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length  and  nearly  the  same 
in  breadth  ;  and  close  to  its  eastern  margin  is  the  man- 
sion-house of  Invereshie,  where  is  a  ferry  across  the  Spey. 
The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  presbytery  of 
Abernethy  and  synod  of  Moray,  and  the  patronage  is 
vested  in  the  Crown  :  the  stipend  of  the  minister  is 
£120,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £2.  10.  per 
annum.  The  church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Ewan.  A  school 
is  supported  by  a  committee  of  the  General  Assembly. 
A  considerable  increase  in  the  population  of  this  district 
took  place  within  the  decennial  period  between  the  late 
and  preceding  census. 

INVER,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Little  Dun- 
keld,  county  of  Perth,  £  a  mile  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Dun- 
keld ;  containing  106  inhabitants.  This  is  a  small 
place,  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Tay  and 
Bran,  and  on  the  great  Highland  road  from  Perth  to 
Inverness.  Before  the  bridge  of  Dunkeld  was  built, 
here  was  a  ferry  across  the  Tay.  The  celebrated  com- 
poser of  Scotch  reels,  Neil  Gow,  was  a  native  of  the  vil- 
lage.—  See  Dunkeld,  Little. 

INVER,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Tain,  county  of 
Ross  and  Cromarty,  4§  miles  (E.  by  N.)  from  Tain  ; 
containing  211  inhabitants.  This  village  is  situated  at 
the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish,  on  the  shore  of 
Dornoch  Frith  ;  and  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  persons 
employed  in  the  fishery,  for  which  it  forms  the  princi- 
pal station.  The  fish  taken  here  are,  haddock,  floun- 
ders, cod,  whiting,  and  skate,  which  are  found  in  great 
abundance,  for  the  supply  of  the  adjacent  district ;  and 
during  the  season,  herrings  are  also  plentiful.  A  school 
for  the  instruction  of  the  children  of  the  fishermen,  who 
speak  chiefly  the  Gaelic  language,  is  supported  in  the 
village,  by  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Know- 
ledge. 

INVERALLOCHY,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Ra- 
then,  district  of  Deer,  county  of  Aberdeen,  4  miles 
(E.  S.  E.)  from  Fraserburgh  ;  containing  507  inhabit- 
ants. This  village  is  situated  on  the  north-eastern  shore 
of  the  parish,  on  the  German  Ocean,  a  short  distance 
eastward  from  Cairnbulg  Point,  and  nearly  adjoining 
the  fishing-town  of  Cairnbulg.  The  male  population 
consists  chiefly  of  fishermen,  who  with  their  families 
remove  in  the  summer  season  to  Fraserburgh,  where 
they  assist  in  the  herring-fishery  of  that  place.  On  the 
shore  here  is  an  abundance  of  sea- weed,  which  is  largely 
used  in  manuring  the   neighbouring   lands.     Until  of 


I  N  V  E 


I  N  VE 


late,  kelp  was  manufactured  to  some  extent ;  the  re- 
duced value  of  the  article,  however,  has  led  almost  to 
the  abandonment  of  its  manufacture  in  this  quarter. 
The  castle  of  Inveralloehy,  now  in  ruins,  appears  to 
have  been  a  place  of  considerable  strength ;  it  was 
anciently  the  property  of  the  Cumyns,  Earls  of  Buchan. 
There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church. 

INVERARITY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Forfak, 
4|  miles  (S.)  from  Forfar  ;  containing  997  inhabitants. 
This  place  derives  its  name  from  a  Celtic  term  descrip- 
tive of  the  locality  of  its  church,  which,  till  the  year 
1754,  was  situated  near  the  spot  where  the  river  Arity  is 
joined,  almost  at  right  angles,  by  the  Corbie  burn,  at  a 
small  distance  from  the  present  house  of  Fothringham. 
The  parish  comprehends  the  ancient  parish  of  Meathie  ;  it 
measures  three  miles  square,  and  contains  about  6000 
acres.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parish  of 
Forfar ;  on  the  south  by  the  parishes  of  Monikie  and 
Murroes ;  on  the  east  by  Guthrie  and  Dunnichen  ;  and 
on  the  west  by  Kinnettles,  Tealing,  and  Glammis.  The 
surface  is  uneven,  consisting  of  a  valley,  well  cultivated 
and  fenced,  surrounded  by  rising  grounds  and  hills  of 
various  elevation,  some  of  which  are  richly  wooded. 
The  soil  on  the  higher  lands  is  a  dark  loam ;  in  several 
places,  it  is  alluvial ;  its  ordinary  character,  however,  is 
that  of  clay.  About  4000  acres  are  cultivated;  1000 
are  waste,  consisting  of  coarse  pasture  and  moor ;  and 
the  remainder  are  plantations,  composed  of  oak,  beech, 
plane,  and  all  the  firs  usually  grown  in  the  country. 
The  annual  value  of  the  produce  is  considerable,  grain 
of  every  kind  forming  a  prominent  article  :  all  the  vari- 
ous green  crops  are  raised,  and  of  good  quality.  The 
common  breed  of  cattle  is  the  Angus  or  native  black,  to 
which  great  attention  is  paid.  The  best  system  of 
agriculture  is  followed  ;  and  extensive  drainage,  the  in- 
closing with  hedges  or  stone  dykes,  and  marl-manuring, 
with  various  other  improvements  in  husbandry,  have 
been  carried  on  to  such  an  extent  that  very  little  re- 
mains to  be  done.  The  prevailing  rocks  are  sandstone 
and  grey  slate,  several  quarries  of  which  are  extensively 
wrought.  The  mansions  are  those  of  Fothringham,  the 
seat  of  the  ancient  family  of  that  name,  and  the  House 
of  Kinealdrum.  Four  miles  of  the  turnpike-road  from 
Forfar  to  Dundee  pass  through  the  parish ;  and  a  coach 
from  Aberdeen  to  Edinburgh,  and  another  from  Bre- 
chin to  Dundee,  travel  daily  upon  it.  The  rateable 
annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £5593.  The  ecclesiastical 
affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Forfar  and  synod 
of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  patrons,  the  family  of  Fothring- 
ham, of  Powrie.  The  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £300, 
with  a  good  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  twelve  acres.  The 
church,  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  was  built  in  1/54,  is 
in  good  repair,  and  will  accommodate  600  persons  with 
sittings.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  Latin  is 
taught,  with  the  usual  branches  of  education ;  the  mas- 
ter has  the  maximum  salary,  with  fees  to  the  annual 
amount  of  about  £27.  The  chief  relic  of  antiquity  is 
the  Roman  camp  called  "  Haer  Faads,"  part  of  which 
lies  in  the  parish  of  Guthrie  ;  it  is  nearly  a  parallelo- 
gram, measuring  about  300  yards  by  700.  At  the  Kirk 
Brae,  near  the  dene  of  Fothringham,  is  the  last  vestige 
of  the  old  church.  James  Webster,  the  traveller  in 
Egypt,  &c,  whose  posthumous  works  have  been  pub- 
lished; Drummond,  the  botanist,  who  died  some  time 
565 


Burgh  Seal. 


since ;  and  the  mother  of  the  distinguished  Professor 
Playfair,  were  natives  of  the  parish  ;  as  was  also,  it  is 
conjectured,  Archibald  Constable,  the  celebrated  book- 
seller of  Edinburgh,  and  publisher  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's 
works. 

INVERARY,  a  royal 
burgh,  the  county  town,  and 
a  parish,  in  the  district  and 
county  of  Argyll,  60  miles 
(N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Glasgow, 
and  114  (W.  N.  W.)  from 
Edinburgh ;  containing  2285 
inhabitants,  of  whom  1233 
J?£  are  in  the  burgh.  This  place 
§Oi^  takes  its  name  from  its  situ- 
ation at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Aray,  which  here  falls 
into  Loch  Fyne.  It  appears 
to  have  been  for  many  years  only  an  inconsiderable 
hamlet  consisting  of  a  few  fishermen's  huts,  prior  to  the 
fourteenth  century,  when  the  Campbell  family,  selecting 
it  as  their  principal  residence,  erected  a  baronial  castle, 
around  which  the  original  town  gradually  arose.  In 
1742,  Archibald,  third  Duke  of  Argyll,  pulled  down  the 
houses  that  had  been  raised  nearly  contiguous  to  the 
castle,  and  built  others,  of  superior  character,  on  grounds 
which  he  gave  to  the  inhabitants  at  a  nominal  rent.  In 
1745  he  commenced  the  erection  of  the  present  mag- 
nificent castle,  which,  after  a  short  interruption  during 
the  time  of  the  rebellion,  was  completed  at.  an  expense 
of  nearly  £300,000,  when  the  ancient  castle  was  taken 
down.  In  174S,  the  Duke  introduced  the  linen  manu- 
facture, which  was  carried  on  for  some  time  with  con- 
siderable benefit  to  the  inhabitants  ;  and  in  177°>  his 
distant  relative,  John,  the  fifth  duke,  established  a 
woollen  manufacture  at  the  Water  of  Douglas.  For  this 
purpose  he  built  premises,  erected  machinery,  and  pro- 
vided every  requisite,  at  his  own  expense  ;  giving  the 
farm  on  which  the  factory  was  built,  and  the  works,  at 
a  low  rent,  to  a  person  who  carried  on  the  manufacture 
for  a  time  with  tolerable  success. 

The  present  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  west- 
ern shore  of  Loch  Fyne,  and  to  the  south  of  the  plea- 
sure-grounds of  the  castle,  of  which  it  commands  an 
interesting  view.  The  houses  are  substantially  built, 
and  of  handsome  appearance  ;  the  streets  are  extremely 
clean,  and  lighted  with  gas,  and  the  inhabitants  are 
amply  supplied  with  water.  The  principal  trade  carried 
on  here  at  present  is  the  herring-fishery,  for  which  the 
season  commences  generally  about  the  end  of  June,  and 
continues  till  the  beginning  of  January  ;  and  the  fisher- 
men, during  the  interval,  are  many  of  them  employed 
in  agriculture.  The  number  of  boats  engaged  in  the 
fishery  averages  from  fifty  to  sixty,  employing  about 
110  men  and  fifty  boys  ;  and  nearly  140  persons  are 
occupied  in  curing  and  packing  the  fish,  of  which,  on 
the  average,  about  2000  barrels  are  exported.  The  har- 
bour is  not  adapted  for  vessels  of  any  considerable  bur- 
then; and  previously  to  1S09  the  quay  was  in  a  very 
bad  state ;  but  a  good  pier  has  since  been  constructed, 
which,  in  1836,  was  extended  at  an  expense  of  £1200, 
whereof  £S00  were  contributed  by  the  Fishery  Board, 
and  the  remainder  by  the  Duke  of  Argyll  and  the  cor- 
porationof  the  town.  The  post-office  has  a  daily  deli- 
very.    A  ferry  to  the  opposite  shore  of  Loch  Fyne  is 


I  N  VE 


I  N  V  E 


kept  up  by  the  corporation  ■  and  great  facilities  of  com- 
munication are  afforded  by  steamers.  The  market  is 
well  supplied  with  provisions  ;  and  fairs  are  held  an- 
nually on  the  1/th  of  May  and  16th  of  September,  for 
cattle,  and  on  the  15th  of  July,  for  wool. 

The  first  notice  of  the  place  occurs  in  a  charter  granted 
to  Colin,  first  Earl  of  Argyll,  erecting  the  town  into  a 
burgh  of  barony  ;  and  it  was  subsequently  made  a  royal 
burgh  by  charter  of  Charles  I.  while  a  prisoner  in 
Carisbrooke  Castle,  vesting  the  government  in  a  pro- 
vost, four  bailies,  and  a  council.  Since  the  passing  of 
the  Municipal  Reform  act,  however,  the  corporation  has 
consisted  of  a  provost,  two  bailies,  and  sixteen  council- 
lors. The  magistrates  exercise  both  civil  and  criminal 
jurisdiction  within  the  burgh,  with  the  exception  of  the 
castle  and  park  of  Inverary ;  but  the  former  kind  of 
jurisdiction  has  been  almost  superseded  by  the  sheriff's 
small-debt  court,  and  the  latter  is  limited  to  petty  riots 
and  assaults.  The  burgh  is  associated  with  those 
of  Oban,  Campbelltown,  Rothesay,  Irvine,  and  Ayr,  in 
returning  a  member  to  the  imperial  parliament.  The 
number  of  £10  householders  within  the  parliamentary 
boundaries  is  sixty-three,  of  whom  thirty-one  are  bur- 
gesses ;  and  of  those  above  £5,  and  below  £10,  twenty- 
three,  of  whom  four  are  burgesses.  The  town -hall,  in 
which  the  courts  for  the  burgh  and  for  the  count}'  are 
held,  is  a  handsome  building,  and  contains  a  spacious 
court-room.  Attached  to  it  is  a  prison,  containing  five 
apartments  for  debtors,  and  eight  cells  for  criminals  ; 
but  a  much  larger  prison  has  been  just  erected,  conti- 
guous to  the  old  one. 

The  parish,  which  comprises  the  ancient  parishes  of 
Kilmilieu  and  denary,  now  united,  is  situated  between 
the  lochs  Awe  and  Fyue,  and  bounded  on  the  south  and 
east  by  the  latter,  along  which  it  extends  for  about  ten 
miles,  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  presenting  an  outline  of 
projecting  rocks  indented  with  bays.  It  is  sixteen  miles 
in  extreme  length,  varying  from  three  to  six  miles  in 
breadth,  and  is  supposed  to  comprise  an  area  of  fifty- 
two  square  miles,  or  34,280  acres,  of  which  by  far  the 
greater  portion  is  in  pasture.  The  surface  is  moun- 
tainous, and  of  great  diversity  of  character.  The  highest 
of  the  mountains  is  Benbui,  which  has  an  elevation  of 
2800  feet ;  and  in  front  of  the  castle  are  two  perpen- 
dicular masses  of  porphyritic  rocks,  called  Dunchuaich 
and  Dunchorvil,  of  which  the  former  is  700,  and  the 
latter  S00,  feet  high.  The  headlands  of  Kenmore  and 
Stronshira  command  an  interesting  view  of  the  parish. 
The  shores  are  generally  smooth  and  level ;  but  towards 
the  southern  extremity,  the  rocks  rise  precipitously  from 
the  lake,  and  assume  a  bold  rugged  aspect.  The  chief 
rivers  are,  the  Shira,  which  flows  through  the  vale  of 
Glenshira  into  the  Douloch,  or  "black  lake;"  and  the 
Aray,  flowing  through  denary  into  Loch  Fyne.  A  river 
called  the  Gear-Amhuinn,  or  "  short  river,"  connects 
the  Douloch  with  Loch  Fyne.  The  lochs  abound  with 
salmon,  trout,  and  other  kinds  of  fish  ;  and  salmon- 
trout,  herrings,  cod,  and  flounders  are  often  taken  to- 
gether in  the  same  net.  The  soil  near  the  shore  is 
chiefly  a  thin  light  loam,  on  a  gravelly  bottom  ;  at  the 
bases  of  the  mountains,  in  the  valleys,  a  deep  dark  loam 
on  sand  and  clay;  and  in  other  parts,  moss,  with  a 
small  quantity  of  earth  washed  down  from  the  higher 
grounds.  The  system  of  agriculture  in  the  valleys  is  in 
an  improved  condition;  but  in  the  higher  lands,  so 
566 


much  progress  has  not  been  made,  as  the  farms  contain 
a  much  larger  portion  of  pasture  than  of  arable  ground. 
The  buildings  on  the  principal  farms  are  substantial, 
and  handsomely  built ;  but  many  of  those  on  the  smaller 
farms  are  of  very  inferior  order.  Great  regard  is  paid 
to  the  rearing  of  cattle,  which  are  generally  of  the 
West  Highland  breed  ;  little  attention  is  bestowed  on 
the  dairy,  but  for  some  years  the  Highland  Society  have 
awarded  prizes  for  the  best  samples  of  cheese.  The 
sheep,  of  which  great  numbers  are  reared,  are  of  the 
black-faced  breed  ;  the  horses  are  partly  of  a  mixed 
breed  between  the  native  and  the  Clydesdale.  Consi- 
derable numbers  of  pigs  are  also  fed  for  market.  The 
rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £6836,  of  which 
£1973  are  returned  for  the  burgh. 

The  substrata  are  chiefly  mica-slaje  intersected  with 
porphyry,  limestone,  and  greenstone ;  and  many  of 
the  rocks  abound  with  garnet,  and  occasionally  with 
felspar.  There  is  an  extensive  quarry  of  good  paving 
stone,  from  which  are  raised  great  quantities  for  the 
city  of  Glasgow.  The  plantations  are  in  a  very  thriving 
condition ;  they  consist  mostly  of  oak,  Scotch  fir, 
spruce,  larch,  ash,  beech,  and  plane.  They  were  chiefly 
formed  by  the  first  Marquess  of  Argyll  and  his  son,  the 
ninth  earl,  and  by  Archibald,  third  duke,  and  his  suc- 
cessors ;  and  are  supposed  to  occupy  an  area  of  about 
12,000  acres.  Among  the  earliest  were  those  of  Dun- 
chuaich and  the  heights  above  the  castle  of  Inverary, 
including  the  stately  avenue  of  beech  at  the  entrance  of 
the  vale  of  Glenshira ;  and  among  the  more  recent  are 
those  of  the  hills  of  Douloch  and  Stronshira,  which 
contain  some  beautiful  specimens  of  larch,  Norway 
spruce,  and  American  black  and  white  spruce,  silver  fir, 
laburnum,  and  lime.  The  mansion  of  Inverary  Castle, 
the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  erected  near  the  site  of 
the  ancient  baronial  castle,  is  a  spacious  quadrangular 
structure,  with  circular  towers  at  the  angles.  The  great, 
hall  is  ornamented  with  ancient  armour,  among  which 
are  150  stand  of  arms  used  by  the  Campbells  at  the 
battle  of  Culloden,  ranged  on  each  side  :  in  a  circular 
recess  fronting  the  entrance,  are  various  specimens  of 
Highland  armour.  The  gallery  leading  to  the  principal 
apartments  is  spacious,  and  superbly  decorated ;  and 
the  paintings,  family  portraits,  and  tapestry  are  all  of 
the  very  highest  order.  The  demesne,  which  is  nearly 
thirty  miles  in  circuit,  is  tastefully  embellished,  and  laid 
out  in  walks  and  rides,  comprising  much  picturesque 
and  romantic  scenery,  and  commanding  extensive  and 
richly-diversified  prospects.  A  noble  avenue  of  stately 
trees  of  ancient  growth  leads  into  the  beautiful  glen  of 
Essachossan. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Inverary,  of  which  this  is 
the  seat,  and  of  the  synod  of  Argyll.  There  are  two 
charges  :  the  minister  of  the  first  has  a  stipend  of 
£168.  15.,  of  which  one-third  is  paid  from  the  exchequer, 
with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £45  per  annum ; 
and  the  minister  of  the  second  charge,  a  stipend  of 
£157.  15.,  of  which  four-fifths  are  derived  from  the 
exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £30  per 
annum ;  patron  of  both,  the  Duke  of  Argyll.  The 
church,  erected  in  1798,  and  repaired,  after  being  greatly 
damaged  by  a  storm,  in  183S,  is  a  spacious  and  hand- 
some structure,  with  a  central  tower  and  spire  115  feet 
in  height,  dividing  it  into  two  distinct  portions,  one  for 


I  N  V  E 


I  N  V  E 


the  first  or  Gaelic  church,  containing  450,  and  the  other 
for  the  English  congregation,  containing  410  sittings. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free 
Church,  and  for  the  United  Associate  Synod.  The 
grammar  school  is  under  the  patronage  of  the  corpora- 
tion, and  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £20,  with  the 
usual  accommodations :  the  burgh  parochial  school- 
master has  £25.  13.  4.  a  year,  with  a  house,  &c.  A 
female  school  in  the  burgh  is  supported  by  the  Duke 
of  Argyll,  who  pays  the  teacher  £20  per  annum,  to 
which  £4  are  added  by  the  council ;  and  a  female  school 
of  industry,  also  in  the  burgh,  is  supported  by  the 
duchess,  who  allows  £26,  with  a  dwelling-house,  coal, 
and  other  perquisites.  In  the  rural  districts  of  the 
parish  are,  a  parochial  school,  of  which  the  master  has 
a  salary  of  £25.  13.,  with  a  house  and  garden;  a  school 
maintained  by  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian 
Knowledge,  of  which  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £15, 
to  which  the  duke  adds  £18,  with  a  house  and  gar- 
den, fuel,  and  grass  for  a  cow;  and  a  female  school,  the 
teacher  of  which  has  £5  from  the  society,  and  a  house 
from  the  duke.  The  poor,  of  whom  the  average  number 
on  the  parish  list  is  fifty,  are  supported  partly  by  col- 
lections at  the  church,  averaging  £65  annually,  and  the 
interest  of  funds  in  the  hands  of  the  Kirk  Session,  pro- 
ducing nearly  £10  ;  but  chiefly  by  the  Duke  of  Argyll, 
who,  in  various  ways,  distributes  not  less  than  £300 
annually  for  their  relief.  There  are  some  slight  ves- 
tiges of  an  old  fort  at  Dunchuaich ;  of  the  ancient 
castle  of  the  Mac  Naughtens,  on  the  banks  of  Douloch  ; 
and  of  some  r-eligious  houses  at  Kilbride  and  Achan- 
tiobairt.  The  market-cross,  supposed  to  have  been 
brought  from  Iona,  was  removed  from  the  old  town, 
and  erected  in  the  present  burgh  ;  and  on  the  lawn 
around  Iuverary  Castle  is  an  upright  stone,  thought  to 
have  been  erected  in  commemoration  of  some  battle 
near  the  spot.  Over  the  water  of  Douglas  is  a  very 
ancient  bridge  of  one  arch,  forming  the  segment  of  a 
circle,  and  thence  called  the  Roman  bridge  ;  but  the 
date  of  its  erection  is  unknown.  Dr.  Claudius  Buchanan 
is  supposed  to  have  been  a  native  of  this  place,  which 
gives  the  title  of  Baron  to  the  Campbell  family,  dukes 
of  Argyll. 

INVERAVEN,  a  parish,  partly  in  the  county  of 
Elgin,  but  chiefly  in  the  county  of  Banff,  11  miles 
(N.  E.  by  E.)  from  Grantown ;  containing  2417  inha- 
bitants. This  place  derives  its  name  from  its  situation 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Aven,  which  has  its  source  in 
a  lake  of  that  name  at.  the  base  of  the  mountains  Ben- 
macdui,  Bein-na-main,  and  Cairngorum,  and  after  re- 
ceiving various  streams  in  its  course,  enters  the  parish, 
and  falls  into  the  Spey  about  a  mile  above  the  church. 
The  parish  is  chiefly  noticed  in  historical  records  as 
the  scene  of  a  memorable  battle  which  occurred  in  1594, 
between  the  Earl  of  Huntly  and  the  Marquess  of  Argyll, 
when  the  latter,  after  an  obstinate  engagement,  in  which 
many  were  slain  on  both  sides,  was  totally  defeated. 
Not  far  from  the  field  of  battle  is  a  tumulus  called  Lord 
Auchindown's  Cairn,  pointing  out  the  spot  where  Sir  P. 
Gordon,  of  Auchindown,  was  killed  while  fighting  on 
the  side  of  the  Earl  of  Huntly.  The  parish  is  bounded 
on  the  north-west  by  the  river  Spey,  and  is  about  twenty 
miles  in  length,  and  varies  from  nearly  four  miles  to 
eight  or  nine  in  breadth ;  it  comprises  6400  acres  of 
arable  land  in  good  cultivation,  about  1000  in  plantations, 
567 


and  500  in  natural  wood,  with  a  wide  extent  of  heath 
and  moor.  The  surface  is  mountainous,  with  large  in- 
tervening tracts  of  moorland  ;  and  the  lower  part,  near 
the  Spey,  is  divided  from  the  district  of  Glcnlivet, 
forming  the  rest  of  the  parish,  by  the  Cairnocay  moun- 
tains, a  lofty  range  extending,  in  a  direction  almost 
parallel  with  the  river,  from  the  hill  of  Benrinnes  to 
the  stream  of  the  Aven.  The  district  of  Glcnlivet  is 
separated  into  two  nearly  equal  portions  by  the  hill  of 
Bochle,  which  rises  to  a  considerable  elevation  from  the 
centre  of  the  vale,  which  is  watered  by  the  Livet,  a 
tributary  to  the  Aven.  On  this  river  was  formerly  a 
waterfall  called  the  Linn  of  Livet ;  but  it  was  destroyed 
in  order  to  give  a  readier  passage  to  the  salmon  that 
frequent  that  stream.  The  Spey,  which  washes  the 
parish  for  several  miles,  abounds  with  various  kinds  of 
fish,  and  was  formerly  much  celebrated  for  the  size  and 
flavour  of  its  salmon,  which  were  found  in  greater  num- 
bers than  at  present,  both  in  that  river  and  in  the 
Aven  ;  but  the  fishery  has  been  much  diminished  by 
the  establishment  of  others  nearer  the  mouth  of  the 
Spey,  which  prevent  many  of  the  fish  from  ascending 
so  far  up.  In  that  part  of  the  parish  bordering  on 
Kirkmichael  is  a  small  lake  formed  by  the  river  Aven, 
and  supposed  to  be  almost  of  unfathomable  depth. 

The  soil  of  the  cultivated  lands,  though  inferior  in 
some  places,  is  generally  fertile,  consisting,  in  the  lower 
portion,  of  loam  partly  mixed  with  gravel,  and  in  the 
district  of  Glenlivet  of  pure  loam  and  a  rich  strong  clay. 
Considerable  improvements  have  been  made  in  the 
agriculture  of  the  parish  ;  large  tracts  of  waste  have 
been  drained,  and  brought  into  cultivation  ;  and  nume- 
rous thriving  plantations  have  been  raised,  especially 
near  the  Spey,  in  Inveraven  Proper,  which  abounds  with 
ornamental  timber.  The  principal  crop  is  oats,  with 
a  good  proportion  of  barley ;  and  wheat  is  also  raised 
occasionally  in  small  quantities,  of  good  quality,  in  the 
low  end  of  Glenlivet.  The  plantations  consist  of  larch, 
oak,  and  mountain-ash,  which  grow  luxuriantly  on  the 
banks  of  the  Spey  and  Aven ;  and  Scotch  and  spruce 
firs,  of  which  there  are  some  beautiful  specimens.  The 
Highland  and  Agricultural  Society  encourage  the  breed 
of  live  stock  by  the  distribution  of  premiums  ;  but 
comparatively  little  attention  is  paid  to  improvement 
in  this  respect.  The  sheep  are  generally  of  the  black- 
faced  kind,  with  a  few  of  English  breed,  which  are  not 
so  well  adapted  to  the  soil ;  the  breed  of  horses  is 
rather  small,  but  better  suited  to  the  state  of  the 
country  than  those  of  larger  size.  The  farm-buildings 
are  usually  commodious,  though  still  capable  of  great 
improvement;  and  in  several  parts,  especially  m  Glen- 
livet, are  several  of  very  superior  character.  The  vale 
of  Glenlivet  was  formerly  noted  for  the  manufacture  of 
illicit  spirits  ;  and  on  almost  every  stream  in  the  parish 
were  houses  for  traffic  in  smuggled  whisky ;  but  this 
practice  has  of  late  materially  diminished,  and  there  are 
now  in  the  vale  two  very  extensive  distilleries,  where 
whisky  of  the  best  quality  is  legally  produced,  which 
obtains  a  high  price  in  every  part  of  the  country.  There 
are  several  mills  in  the  parish ;  also  some  small  manu- 
factories for  woollen  cloths  and  plaidings,  chiefly  under 
the  management  of  the  farmers.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  Inveraven  is  £5032. 

Ballindalloch  House,  in  the  parish,  is  a  perfect  speci- 
men of  the  old  Scottish  castle ;   it  is  a  square  edifice 


INVE 


I  N  VE 


with  three  circular  towers,  and  some  additions  have 
been  made  to  the  old  building  during  the  last  century. 
It  is  situated  about  half  a  mile  from  the  confluence  of 
the  Aven  with  the  river  Spey,  and  is  richly  embellished 
with  timber,  and  surrounded  by  scenery  of  interesting 
character.  At  a  short  distance  may  still  be  traced  the 
foundations  of  the  original  castle,  which  has  long  been 
suffered  to  fall  into  decay,  and  almost  into  oblivion,  the 
only  memorial  being  preserved  in  a  traditionary  legend, 
by  which  its  restoration  is  said  to  have  been  prohibited. 
The  farm-house  of  Colquoich  is  conspicuous  for  the 
abundance  of  Scotch  fir  and  larch  which  grow  luxu- 
riantly in  the  surrounding  plantations.  The  substratum 
of  the  parish  is  generally  primitive  rock  :  red  granite, 
of  good  quality  for  building,  is  found  near  the  river 
Spey,  and  on  the  north  of  the  Benrinnes  mountain,  in 
which  asbestos  has  also  been  discovered.  Limestone, 
embedded  in  gneiss,  is  found  in  the  vale  of  Glenlivet ; 
no  regular  quarries  have  been  opened,  but  it  is  fre- 
quently dug  by  the  tenants  on  the  different  farms,  for 
their  own  use ;  and  numerous  limekilns  have  been 
erected  in  various  parts  of  the  vale.  The  roads  and 
bridges  are  kept  in  good  repair ;  and  considerable  in- 
tercourse is  maintained  with  the  villages  of  Tomantoul 
and  Charlestown,  respectively  three  miles  from  each 
extremity  of  the  parish,  where  markets  are  occasionally 
held,  and  also  with  Grantown  and  Dufftown.  Fairs  are 
held  at  Burnside,  about  a  mile  from  the  church,  on  the 
Tuesday  before  the  third  Friday  in  February,  the  Tues- 
day before  the  26th  of  May,  the  second  Tuesday  in 
July,  O.  S.,  and  the  Tuesday  before  the  23d  November, 
for  the  sale  of  horses,  cattle,  and  grain,  and  also  for 
hiring  servants. 

The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Aberlour  and  synod 
of  Moray,  and  in  the  gift  of  the  Earl  of  Seafield;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £238.  1/.  11.,  with  a  manse,  and 
a  glebe  valued  at  £7  per  annum.  The  church,  which 
was  erected  in  1806,  is  in  good  repair,  and  affords 
accommodation  to  about  550  persons.  In  Glenlivet  is 
a  missionary  station,  supported  by  the  Royal  Bounty  : 
the  chapel  was  erected,  or  rather  rebuilt,  in  1S25.  The 
minister  has  a  salary  of  £60,  with  a  small  farm,  a  house, 
and  a  range  of  hill  pasture  for  sheep,  on  the  Gordon 
estate.  There  are  also  in  the  vale  two  Roman  Ca- 
tholic chapels,  the  one  at  Tombia,  and  the  other  at 
Chapelton ;  the  former  will  contain  a  congregation  of 
nearly  1000,  and  the  latter  of  about  300  persons.  The 
parochial  school  affords  education  to  about  fifty  chil- 
dren ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £28.  17-  5.,  with  £11 
fees,  a  house  and  garden,  and  a  portion  of  the  Dick 
bequest.  There  are  two  male,  and  one  female  school, 
for  Protestants,  in  the  vale  of  Glenlivet;  the  masters 
derive  their  salaries  from,  the  Society  for  Propagating 
Christian  Knowledge,  and  the  General  Assembly's  Com- 
mittee for  Highland  schools,  and  have  houses  and  gar- 
dens on  the  Gordon  estate  :  the  mistress  of  the  female 
school  has  likewise  a  house,  &c,  and  is  paid  £5  per 
annum,  in  addition  to  a  similar  sum  from  the  society. 
In  Glenlivet  are  likewise  three  Roman  Catholic  schools, 
two  for  females,  and  one  for  males,  all  supported  by 
funds  contributed  by  the  congregations  at  the  two 
chapels.  Various  traces  of  Druidical  establishments 
exist  in  several  parts  of  the  parish,  of  which  the  most 
considerable  are  at  Chapelton,  on  the  farm  of  Kil- 
machlie,  where,  also,  ancient  coins  of  silver,  of  the  size 
568 


of  half-crowns,  and  some  old  weapons,  have  been  dis- 
covered by  the  plough.  The  cemetery  of  a  religious 
house  formerly  existing  at  Downan  is  still  used  as  a 
burial-ground,  as  is  also  that  of  another,  at  Buitterlach, 
near  which  is  a  cairn  of  large  dimensions.  On  the  farm 
of  Haughs,  at  Kilmachlie,  is  a  spot  of  ground  supposed 
to  have  been  anciently  a  place  of  sepulture,  and  which 
has  been  recently  planted  with  trees.  A  portion  of  the 
old  castle  of  Drumin  occupies  an  elevated  site  on  a 
promontory,  near  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Livet 
and  Aven  ;  the  walls  on  the  east  and  north  sides  are 
of  considerable  height,  and  of  massive  thickness.  At 
Blairnndy  are  the  ruins  of  a  hunting-seat  formerly 
belonging  to  the  earls  of  Huntly. 

INVERBERVIE,  county  of  Haddington.— See 
Bervie. 

INVERBROTHOCK,  lately  a  quoad  sacra  parish, 
in  the  parish  of  St.  Vigean's,  county  of  Forfar  ;  con- 
taining 5195  inhabitants.  This  place,  which  is  situated 
on  the  small  river  Brothock,  forms  the  principal  suburb 
of  the  town  of  Arbroath,  and  participates  largely  in  the 
manufactures  carried  on  in  that  burgh.  The  spinning  of 
hemp  and  flax  gives  employment  to  more  than  1500  of 
the  inhabitants;  and  the  yarn  produced  from  the  several 
mills  is  partly  exported,  and  partly  woven  by  hand.  About 
300  persons  are  employed  in  weaving  the  coarser  kinds 
of  linen,  for  sacking,  and  for  sail-cloth  for  the  supply  of 
the  shipping.  The  terminus  of  the  Arbroath  and  Forfar 
railway  is  within  this  district ;  and  facility  of  commu- 
nication is  also  afforded  by  the  Dundee  and  Arbroath 
railway,  the  great  north  road,  and  various  other  roads. 
The  church  was  erected  in  1S28,  at  an  expense  of  about 
£2000,  raised  by  subscription,  towards  which  the  town 
council  of  Arbroath  and  the  principal  heritors  largely 
contributed;  it  is  a  neat  structure  containing  1230  sit- 
tings. The  minister,  who  is  chosen  by  the  proprietors  of 
the  pews,  has  a  stipend  of  £150,  with  an  allowance  of 
£20  for  communion  elements.  There  are  places  of  wor- 
ship for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  Original  Seceders, 
and  a  congregation  of  Wesleyans.  A  handsome  school- 
room was  erected  in  the  year  1842,  by  subscription, 
aided  by  a  grant  from  government ;  it  is  capable  of 
receiving  250  scholars,  and  the  school  is  supported 
wholly  by  the  fees.  There  is  a  Sabbath  school  library, 
containing  480  volumes ;  also  a  theological  library  of 
400  volumes. 

INVERCHAOLAIN,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of 
Cowal,  county  of  Argyll,  7  miles  (N.)  from  Rothe- 
say ;  containing  699  inhabitants.  The  name  of  this 
place  is  derived  from  the  Chaolain,  a  small  stream  which, 
at  this  part,  joins  Loch  Straven,  or  Striven,  an  arm  of 
the  sea  intersecting  the  parish  in  a  northern  direction. 
Inverchaolain  is  situated  in  the  south-eastern  division 
of  the  county,  and  is  about  fifteen  miles  long,  and  eight 
miles  in  extreme  breadth,  including  the  loch  ;  it  com- 
prises upwards  of  40,000  acres,  of  which  1300  are 
arable,  1500  low  pasture,  nearly  1500  wood,  and  the 
remainder  hill  pasture.  The  surface  is  irregular,  and 
rises  in  the  form  of  elevated  ranges  on  each  side  of 
the  lake,  which  is  more  than  nine  miles  long,  and 
about  two  broad  at  the  entrance,  but  narrowing  as  it 
penetrates  into  the  country.  The  depth  varies  in  the 
middle  from  twenty  to  fifty  or  sixty  fathoms,  but  is  in 
general  more  shallow  towards  the  shores,  which  in  many 
parts  are  smooth  and  sandy,  offering  excellent  facilities 


I  N  VE 


I  N  V  E 


for  bathing.  The  only  other  waters  connected  with  the 
parish,  except  a  few  rivulets,  which  exhibit  several  in- 
teresting cascades,  are  the  Kyles  of  Bute  and  Loch  Ridon 
or  Riddan,  forming  respectively  the  south-western  and 
western  boundaries,  and  affording  herrings  and  the 
ordinary  white-fish.  The  whole  of  the  sea-shore  be- 
longing to  the  parish  measures  between  thirty  and  forty 
miles. 

Near  the  coast  the  soil  is  light  and  sandy,  mixed  in 
some  parts  with  moss  ;  in  the  more  inland  tracts  it  runs 
through  several  varieties,  and  much  of  the  earth  is  of 
a  red  cast.  Agriculture  is  in  a  very  low  state,  the  old 
system  of  cultivation  generally  prevailing.  Most  of  the 
land  is  laid  out  in  sheep-farms,  merely  interspersed  with 
arable  tracts,  and  held  on  lease  for  only  nine  years. 
Some  parts,  however,  form  an  exception  ;  are  highly  cul- 
tivated, drained,  and  fenced  ;  and  have  very  comfortable 
houses,  the  leases  running  for  nineteen  years.  The 
sheep,  usually  numbering  upwards  of  10,000,  are  of  the 
black-faced  kind,  excepting  a  few  Leicesters,  fed  on  the 
lower  grounds.  Considerable  numbers  of  cows,  chiefly 
cthe  Argyllshire,  with  some  of  the  Ayrshire  for  the  dairy, 
are  kept ;  and  about  200  calves  are  annually  reared. 
The  cattle  are  generally  disposed  of  to  the  drovers,  for 
the  low  country  markets  ;  the  sheep  are  sold  to  the 
Greenock,  Glasgow,  Rothesay,  or  Dunoon  butchers. 
The  strata  of  the  parish  comprise  chiefly  mica-slate,  and 
a  variety  of  hard  common  rocks  lying  in  beds,  with 
many  whinstone  dykes.  Limestone  was  formerly  quar- 
ried ;  but  it  has  been  superseded  by  Irish  lime  in  shell, 
the  latter  being  of  superior  quality  and  less  expensive. 
The  wood  comprehends  about  440  acres  of  thriving 
plantations,  principally  larch,  spruce-fir,  oak,  ash,  and 
birch  :  there  are  also  1000  acres  of  oak  coppice,  the 
periodical  cuttings  of  which  make  a  profitable  return. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £3283.  The 
mansion  of  Southhall,  situated  near  the  opening  to  the 
East  Kyles  of  Bute,  embraces  beautiful  views  of  the  Frith 
of  Clyde ;  and  at  Gortan,  on  the  eastern  side  of  Loch 
Straven,  a  cottage  has  recently  been  built,  surrounded 
with  nearly  100  acres  of  plantations,  and  commanding 
fine  prospects  of  Rothesay  bay,  with  Ayrshire  and  Arran 
in  the  distance. 

The  inhabitants  are  scattered  in  various  directions, 
and  are  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  but  mostly  keep 
nets  for  taking,  at  the  proper  seasons,  the  fish  with 
which  the  different  waters  abound,  comprising  all  kinds 
of  white-fish,  with  herrings,  and  tolerable  quantities  of 
lobsters,  crabs,  and  other  shell-fish.  The  peat  obtained 
in  the  district  is  used  for  fuel ;  but  the  people  more 
frequently  burn  coal,  brought  from  various  places.  The 
parish  is  tolerably  well  supplied  with  roads,  some  of 
which  are  kept  in  very  good  order.  A  fair  is  held  in 
November,  for  the  sale  of  black-cattle.  Inverchaolain 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dunoon  and  synod  of  Argyll, 
and  in  the  patronage  of  the  Marquess  of  Bute.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £150,  of  which  a  part  is  received 
from  the  exchequer,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  of  nearly 
five  acres,  valued  at  £13.  10.  per  annum.  The  church, 
built  in  1812,  is  situated  on  an  eminence,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  picturesque  burial-ground ;  it  contains 
250  sittings,  and  forms  that  accommodate  about  forty 
more.  A  chapel,  connected  with  the  Establishment,  and 
situated  on  the  East  Kyles  of  Bute,  was  opened  in  1840, 
having  been  built  by  subscription,  and  a  contribution 
Vol.  I.— 569 


from  the  General  Assembly's  church-extension  fund. 
There  are  two  schools  in  the  parish  ;  the  masters  have 
salaries  of  £22  and  £11  respectively,  and  the  fees.  In 
a  small  island  in  Loch  Riddan  is  the  ruin  of  the  ancient 
castle  of  Elland-heirrig,  fortified  by  the  Earl  of  Argyll 
when  he  made  his  descent  upon  Scotland  in  1685,  and 
which  is  seen  by  passengers  in  steam-boats  passing 
along  the  Kyles  of  Bute.  The  island,  and  the  property 
lying  in  the  vicinity,  were  at  that  period  possessed  by  a 
family  named  Campbell,  now  extinct,  who  had  other 
very  considerable  lands  in  this  part  of  Scotland,  and 
were  of  some  celebrity  as  warriors. 

INVERCRUDEN,  Aberdeenshire.— See  Cruden. 

INVERESK,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Edinburgh, 
5  miles  (E.  by  S  )  from  Edinburgh  ;  containing,  with 
the  town  of  Musselburgh,  and  the  villages  of  Monkton- 
hall,  Cowpits,  Craighall,  Stoneyhill,  and  part  of  New 
Craighall,  S263  inhabitants,  of  whom  211  are  in  the 
village  of  Inveresk.  This  place  derives  its  name  from 
its  situation  near  the  influx  of  the  river  Esk  into  a  bay 
on  the  south  shore  of  the  Frith  of  Forth.  The  parish 
is  about  three  miles  in  length  and  two  and  a  half  in 
breadth,  comprising  4000  acres,  of  which,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  small  portion  of  woodland  and  planta- 
tions, the  whole  is  arable,  and  in  a  high  state  of  culti- 
vation. The  surface,  though  generally  level,  and  sloping 
towards  the  coast,  is  pleasingly  varied  with  gentle  un- 
dulations, which,  in  the  direction  of  the  southern  boun- 
dary of  the  parish,  terminate  in  a  ridge,  though  of  in- 
considerable height,  having  an  elevation  of  little  more 
than  500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Along  the 
shore  of  the  Frith  are  some  beautiful  downs  of  great 
extent,  well  adapted  for  the  celebration  of  public  games, 
and  on  which  a  fine  race-course  has  been  formed,  and 
a  handsome  and  commodious  stand  erected.  The  river 
Esk,  combining  the  waters  of  the  North  Esk,  which  has 
its  source  in  the  Pentland  hills,  and  of  the  South  Esk, 
which  rises  in  the  Moorfoot  range,  flows  from  Dalkeith 
Park  (within  which  the  two  streams  unite),  in  a  pleasing 
winding  course  through  the  parish,  and  falls  into  the 
bay  of  Musselburgh.  Salmon  are  found  in  the  river, 
though  not  in  any  considerable  numbers ;  and  off  the 
coast  are  taken  haddock,  cod,  flounders,  whiting,  and 
occasionally  soles  and  mackerel. 

The  soil  near  the  village  is  a  light  sandy  loam,  of 
great  fertility ;  and  on  the  higher  grounds,  a  deep  clayey 
loam  ;  the  whole  producing  exuberant  crops  of  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  peas,  beans,  potatoes,  and  turnips.  The 
system  of  husbandry  has  been  brought  to  great  perfec- 
tion, and  the  lands  generally  are  in  the  highest  state  of 
cultivation  ;  the  farm-houses  are  substantially  built  and 
well  arranged,  and  on  most  of  the  farms  are  threshing- 
mills,  some  of  which  are  worked  by  steam.  The  lands 
have  been  well  drained,  and  inclosed  either  with  stone 
walls  or  hedges  of  thorn ;  and  all  the  more  recent  im- 
provements in  the  construction  of  agricultural  imple- 
ments have  been  adopted.  The  cattle  reared  are  not 
confined  to  any  particular  breed;  the  horses  are  usually 
the  Clydesdale,  and  the  sheep  of  the  Cheviot  and  Lei- 
cestershire breeds.  A  considerable  portion  of  land  is 
cultivated  as  gardens ;  and  large  quantities  of  fruit, 
flowers,  and  vegetables  are  raised  for  the  supply  of  the 
Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  markets.  The  rateable  annual 
value  of  the  parish  is  £26,677-  The  plantations  are, 
ash,  oak,  elm,  plane,  beech,  larch,  and  Scotch  and  spruce 

4D 


IN  VE 


IN  VE 


firs,  with  a  few  pines,  all  of  which  seem  well  adapted  to 
the  soil,  and  are  in  a  thriving  state.  The  principal  sub- 
strata are,  coal,  freestone,  and  limestone.  The  coal- 
field extends  under  the  whole  of  the  parish,  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  Esk,  and  contains  forty  seams,  vary- 
ing from  two  and  a  half  to  nine  feet  in  thickness  :  of 
these  seams  three  are  wrought,  which  are  respectively 
three,  four  and  a  half,  and  four  feet  thick,  and  at 
depths  of  nine,  twelve,  and  ninety  fathoms.  The  chief 
collieries  now  in  operation  are  at  New  Craighall,  Monk- 
tonhall,  and  Edmonstone  :  at  New  Craighall  a  steam- 
engine  of  140-horse  power  was  many  years  ago  erected, 
at  an  expense  of  £6000,  by  Messrs.  Claud  Girdwood 
and  Company,  for  drawing  off  the  water.  Another,  of 
still  greater  power,  has  recently  been  erected.  There 
were  formerly  collieries  at  Pinkie-burn,  Midfield,  and 
Cowpits ;  but  the  workings  have  been  abandoned. 
Several  quarries  of  limestone  are  wrought  to  a  consi- 
derable extent ;  and  a  further  supply  of  that  material 
may  readily  be  obtained  from  Cousland,  in  the  adjoin- 
ing parish  of  Cranston. 

Among  the  principal  mansions  in  the  parish  is  Pinkie 
House,  the  seat  of  Sir  John  Hope,  Bart.,  anciently  the 
country  residence  of  the  abbots  of  Dunfermline,  and, 
according  to  an  inscription  in  front  of  the  building,  en- 
larged or  improved  by  Lord  Seton,  in  1613.  The  most 
ancient  portion  is  a  massive  square  tower,  crowned  with 
turrets,  and  of  which  the  walls  are  of  immense  thick- 
ness, and  the  ground-floor  strongly  vaulted.  The  man- 
sion in  its  present  state,  though  only  part  of  a  more 
magnificent  structure,  is  spacious,  and  contains  many 
splendid  apartments,  in  one  of  which,  called  the  king's 
room,  the  abbot  entertained  his  sovereign.  The  painted 
gallery,  which  is  120  feet  in  length,  and  decorated  with 
an  enriched  ceiling  painted  in  device,  was  used  as  an 
hospital  for  the  wounded,  after  the  battle  of  Pinkie  ; 
and  Prince  Charles  Edward  slept  in  the  apartment  on 
the  night  after  the  battle  of  Prestonpans.  Carberry 
House  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  acclivity  of  Carberry 
hill,  upon  the  summit  of  which  is  still  pointed  out.  the 
place  where  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  sat,  while  holding 
a  conference  with  Kirkaldy  of  Grange.  The  mansion, 
which  is  of  great  antiquity,  has  within  the  last  thirty 
years  been  repaired,  and  partly  modernised ;  it  com- 
mands a  fine  prospect  embracing  the  Frith  of  Forth. 
The  grounds  are  tastefully  embellished,  and  enriched 
with  groves  and  avenues  of  oak,  chesnut,  and  beech,  of 
stately  and  venerable  growth.  There  are  numerous  other 
mansions,  of  which  the  principal  are,  Stoneyhill  House, 
anciently  the  seat  of  the  son  of  Archbishop  Sharpe ; 
Monkton  House,  said  to  have  been  built  by  General 
Monk  ;  and  New  Hailes,  formerly  the  seat  of  Lord 
Hailes,  author  of  the  Annals  of  Scotland.  The  grounds 
of  the  last  are  pleasingly  laid  out ;  and  near  the  house 
is  a  column,  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  Earl  of  Stair. 
The  village  of  Inveresk  is  situated  on  rising  ground  over- 
looking the  picturesque  and  fertile  valley  of  the  Esk  ; 
and  from  the  mildness  of  the  climate,  and  the  interest- 
ing variety  of  the  scenery  around,  it  has  long  been 
distinguished  as  the  "  Montpelier "  of  Scotland,  and 
selected  as  a  favourite  place  of  residence. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Dalkeith  and  synod  of 
Lothian   and   Tweeddale.      The    minister's    stipend    is 
£324.  11.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £22  per 
570 


aiinuni  ;  patron,  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch.  There  is  also 
an  assistant  minister,  who  receives  the  interest  of  a 
bequest  of  £340,  £5  from  seat-rents,  and  from  £35  to 
£40  from  his  office  as  session-clerk.  The  church  of  St. 
Michael,  a  spacious  building,  supposed  to  have  been 
erected  soon  after  the  introduction  of  Christianity  into 
Britain,  was  taken  down  in  1804,  and  a  new  structure 
erected  on  its  site  in  1806.  The  present  church,  con- 
taining 2400  sittings,  is  a  plain  edifice  in  the  Grecian 
style  of  architecture,  with  a  lofty  tower  and  spire,  form- 
ing a  conspicuous  landmark,  and  towards  the  building 
of  which  a  contribution  was  made  by  the  Commissioners 
of  Northern  Lighthouses.  A  church  has  been  built  in 
Fisherrow,  in  the  parish  ;  and  there  are  places  of  wor- 
ship for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  the  Relief,  United 
Secession,  Independents,  and  Wesleyans  ;  and  an  epis- 
copal chapel.  A  grammar  school,  at  Musselburgh,  is 
supported  under  the  patronage  of  the  magistrates  and 
town  council,  who  give  the  master  a  salary  of  £27.  4.  5., 
in  addition  to  the  house  and  schoolroom.  There  are 
also  English  schools  in  Musselburgh  and  Fisherrow,  of 
which  the  masters  receive  salaries  of  £12  and  £17,  re- 
spectively, from  the  corporation  funds.  The  relics  of 
antiquity  that  have  been  discovered  in  various  parts  of 
the  parish,  afford  striking  evidence  that  this  place  was 
not  merely  a  military  station,  but  evidently  a  Roman 
colony,  or  municipum.  The  ancient  church  of  St. 
Michael  was  built  on  the  site,  and  partly  with  the  ma- 
terials, of  the  praetorium  of  a  Roman  camp  on  Inveresk 
hill.  Foundations  of  baths,  and  numerous  other  ves- 
tiges of  Roman  occupation,  have  been  discovered  at 
different  times.  Among  these  were,  a  votive  altar  in- 
scribed Apollini  Granno ;  a  golden  coin  of  Trajan,  much 
obliterated ;  and  a  copper  medal  with  the  inscription 
Diva  Faustina.  Walker,  an  eminent  engraver  of  por- 
traits, and  Burnet,  a  distinguished  historical  engraver, 
•were  natives  of  the  parish,  as  is,  also,  Alexander  Ritchie, 
who  has  excelled  as  a  sculptor.  Logan,  the  poet, 
was  educated  in  the  grammar  school. — See  Mussel- 
burgh, Northesk,  &c. 

INVERGORDON,  a  village  and  small  sea-port,  in 
the  parish  of  Rosskeen,  mainland  district  of  the  county 
of  Ross  and  Cromarty,  19  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Ding- 
wall ;  containing  998  inhabitants.  This  place,  which 
is  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  Cromarty  Frith,  at 
nearly  an  equal  distance  from  Tain  and  Dingwall,  has 
greatly  increased  in  importance  since  the  construction 
of  a  commodious  harbour  by  Roderick  Mc  Leod,  Esq., 
in  1S28,  at  a  cost  of  more  than  £5000.  The  village  is 
neatly  built,  and  the  surrounding  scenery  derives  much 
additional  beauty  from  the  pleasure-grounds  of  Inver- 
gordon  Castle,  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  A  subscrip- 
tion library  has  been  established.  A  cattle-show  takes 
place  annually  ;  there  are  numerous  inns  for  the  accom- 
modation of  travellers  ;  and  from  its  central  situation, 
the  place  is  rapidly  advancing.  The  harbour  is  accessi- 
ble to  vessels  of  large  burthen.  The  port  carries  on  an 
extensive  trade  in  the  exportation  of  grain,  cattle, 
horses,  sheep,  pigs,  and  all  the  various  kinds  of  agri- 
cultural produce  ;  and  is  one  of  the  most  frequented  in 
Easter  and  Wester  Ross.  A  substantial  pier  has  been 
erected  for  the  loading  and  unloading  of  vessels,  and 
also  a  slip  for  building  and  repairing  ships.  A  wooden 
jetty  has  recently  been  added  to  the  pier,  in  order  to 
secure  a  depth  of  ten  feet  water  at  ebb-tides ;  and  the 


INVE 


1  N  V  E 


trade  of  the  place  is  facilitated  by  a  ferry  across  the 
Frith  to  Cromarty.  Facility  of  communication  is  also 
afforded  by  good  roads,  and  by  steamers,  which  ply 
during  the  summer  months,  weekly,  to  Inverness,  Aber- 
deen, and  Leith,  and  every  alternate  week  to  London. 
The  north  and  south  mails  pass  daily  through  the  vil- 
lage. Fairs  for  cattle,  horses,  agricultural  produce, 
fish,  and  various  kinds  of  wares,  are  held  on  the  first 
Thursdays  in  every  month  throughout  the  year  ;  on  the 
second  Tuesdays  in  April,  October,  and  December;  on 
the  third  Tuesday  in  February  ;  and  the  first  Tuesday 
in  August. 

1NVERGOWRIE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Liff, 
Benvie,  and  Invergowrie,  county  of  Forfar,  3  miles 
(W.)  from  Dundee;  containing  108  inhabitants.  This 
village  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
Tay,  and  gives  name  to  a  fine  bay,  at  the  bottom  of 
which  is  a  small  mouldering  ruin  called  Invergowrie 
church,  half  covered  with  ivy,  close  on  the  water's  edge. 
This  is  said  to  have  been  the  first  Christian  structure 
north  of  the  Tay,  having  been  founded  in  the  seventh 
century,  by  a  papal  legate  named  Boniface.  From 
Invergowrie  Alexander  I.  embarked  on  his  escape  from 
assassination  at  the  palace  of  Liff.  The  village  stands 
at  the  commencement  of  the  Carse  of  Govvrie,  and  on 
the  high  road  from  Perth  to  Dundee.  About  half  a 
mile  from  it,  on  Invergowrie  hill,  are  the  remains  of  a 
Roman  camp,  which  had  a  communication,  on  the 
north-east,  with  the  camp  of  Hare  Faulds,  and  was 
designed,  it  is  supposed,  to  keep  up  a  communication 
with  the  Roman  shipping  in  the  Tay.  Its  site  is  now 
surrounded  with  a  plantation  of  trees. 

INVERKEILLOR,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  For- 
far, 6  miles  (N.  by  E.)  from  Arbroath  ;  containing, 
with  the  hamlets  of  Leysmill,  Chapelton  of  Boysack, 
March  of  Lunanbank,  and  Millfield,  1879  inhabitants, 
of  whom  141  are  in  the  village  of  Inverkeillor.  This 
place,  which  was  perhaps  anciently  called  Conghoillis, 
derives  its  present  name  from  its  situation  near  the 
mouth  of  a  small  rivulet  designated  Keillor,  which 
flows  into  the  bay  of  Lunan  about  a  mile  to  the 
south-east  of  the  village.  It  lays  claim  to  a  remote 
degree  of  antiquity ;  and  near  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Lunan  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  house  of  Redcastle, 
said  to  have  been  built,  by  William  the  Lion  for  a  hunt- 
ing-seat, the  probability  of  which  is  confirmed  by  the 
names  of  several  of  the  adjacent  lands.  The  parish  is 
bounded  on  the  north,  and  also  intersected,  by  the 
river  Lunan  ;  on  the  east  is  the  North  Sea.  It  is  about 
seven  miles  in  length,  and  of  very  irregular  form,  vary- 
ing from  two  and  a  half  to  four  and  a  half  miles  in 
breadth  ;  and  comprises  an  area  of  7500  acres,  of  which 
130  are  woodland  and  plantations,  2500  pasture,  and 
the  remainder  arable.  The  surface  is  generally  level, 
but  rises  towards  the  north  by  a  gentle  acclivity  from 
the  river  Lunan,  and  towards  the  south  from  the  river 
Keillor,  terminating,  in  the  latter  direction,  in  a  high 
ridge  of  rocky  coast,  at  the  promontory  of  Redhead, 
which  has  an  elevation  of  230  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  The  Lunan  has  its  source  near  Forfar,  and,  flow- 
ing eastward,  through  the  northern  portion  of  the 
parish,  falls  into  Lunan  bay  :  the  Keillor  rises  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  parish,  and  also  joins  the  sea  at 
the  bay.  The  coast  extends  for  nearly  six  miles  ;  and  the 
shore  along  the  bay  of  Lunan  is  a  flat  firm  sand,  bevond 
571 


which,  to  the  south,  it  is  bold  and  rocky.  The  hay 
affords  good  anchorage  for  vessels  ;  and  all  along  the 
coast  are  salmon-fisheries. 

The  soil  is  in  general  fertile,  in  some  places  a  deep 
rich  loam,  and  in  others  of  a  lighter  quality  ;  the  crops 
are,  grain  of  every  kind,  with  potatoes  and  turnips. 
The  system  of  husbandry  is  in  a  very  improved  state  ; 
the  lands  are  well  drained  ;  the  farm-buildings  of  supe- 
rior construction;  and  the  fences,  which  are  chiefly  of 
stone,  are  kept  in  good  order.  The  cattle  reared  in  the 
parish  are  usually  of  the  Angus  black  breed,  without 
horns  ;  most  of  them  are  sold  when  three  years  old,  for 
the  English  market,  where  they  obtain  a  high  price  ; 
and  the  others  are  pastured  for  home  use,  or  for  the 
Glasgow  market.  The  sheep  are  of  the  Highland  black- 
faced  breed,  with  a  few  of  the  Cheviot  and  Leicester- 
shire. The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  amounts 
to  £S76l.  The  plantations  are,  beech,  elm,  oak,  birch, 
and  plane,  with  larch  and  Scotch  fir,  for  which  the  soil 
is  well  adapted.  The  rocks  are  mostly  red  sandstone, 
alternated  with  trap  and  porphyry,  in  which  are  found 
agates  of  great  beauty  ;  and  the  principal  substrata  are 
whinstone  and  freestone.  The  latter  is  quarried  at 
Leysmill,  where  large  paving-stones  are  dressed  by 
machinery  driven  by  steam  :  in  these  works,  which  are 
the  property  of  Mr.  Carnegie  of  Boysack,  about  fifty 
men  are  constantly  employed.  Ethie  House,  the  seat 
of  the  Earl  of  Northesk,  is  an  ancient  mansion  origi- 
nally erected  by  Cardinal  Beaton,  and  is  pleasantly 
situated  near  the  coast.  The  only  other  houses  in  the 
parish  of  any  note  are  those  named  Kinblethmont  and 
Anniston. 

The  village  of  Inverkeillor  is  on  the  great  north  road 
from  Edinburgh  to  Aberdeen  :  the  inhabitants  are 
the  ordinary  tradesmen  necessary  for  the  convenience  of 
a  country  population.  Many  persons  within  the  parish 
are  employed  in  the  spinning  of  flax,  for  which  there 
are  several  mills,  some  being  driven  by  steam,  and 
others  by  the  water  of  the  Lunan.  Near  the  church  is 
a  posting-house,  called  Chance  Inn,  at  which  the  mail 
delivers  letters  twice  a  day  ;  and  facility  of  communica- 
tion is  afforded  by  good  roads,  and  several  bridges  over 
the  Lunan.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Arbroath  and 
synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns.  The  minister's  stipend 
is  £246.  14.,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £8.  15. 
per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  church,  erected  in 
1735,  and  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  an  aisle  in  1799, 
is  a  plain  structure  containing  700  sittings.  There  is  a 
place  of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church.  The 
parochial  schoolmaster  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  a  house 
and  garden;  he  receives  also  £10  from  a  bequest  for 
the  gratuitous  instruction  of  twelve  poor  children,  and 
the  fees  average  about  £15  per  annum.  There  is  also  a 
school  at  Chapelton,  of  which  the  master  has  a  free 
house  and  garden,  and  a  salary  of  £7,  arising  from  a 
bequest,  in  addition  to  the  fees.  The  bequest  from 
which  these  payments  to  the  schools  are  made,  amounts 
to  £1000,  under  the  management  of  the  Kirk  Session, 
who  appropriate  the  remainder  of  the  proceeds  to  the 
poor  not  upon  the  parish  roll.  Near  the  sea  are  the 
remains  of  St.  Murdoch's  chapel,  with  the  burying- 
ground  attached  to  it ;  and  at  Chapelton  are  the  remains 
of  the  chapel  of  Quytefield,  the  burial-place  of  the  family 
of  Boysack. 

4D  2 


I  N  V  E 


I  N  V  E 


Obverse. 


Reverse. 


Seal  and  Arms. 


INVERKEITHING,  a  parish,  sea-port,  burgh,  and 
market-town,  in  the  district  of  Dunfermline,  county 
of  Fife,  12§  miles  (N.  W.  by  W.)  from  Edinburgh ; 
containing,  with  the  village  of  Hillend,  2530  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  16*4  are  in  the  burgh.  This  place,  which 
is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name  from  its  position 
at  the  influx  of  the  Keithing  into  the  sea,  and  which 
at  present  includes  the  ancient  parish  of  Rosyth,  so 
called,  in  the  Gaelic  language,  from  its  peninsular  situ- 
ation, appears  to  be  of  considerable  antiquity  ;  and  the 
adjacent  ferry  was,  on  her  flight  from  England,  the 
landing-place  of  Margaret,  who  afterwards  became  the 
queen  of  Malcolm  III.  Several  battles  have  at  various 
times  occurred  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  the  last  of 
which  was  between  the  Scots  and  the  forces  of  Oliver 
Cromwell,  in  1651  ;  and  there  are  still  the  remains  of  a 
redoubt,  said  to  have  been  thrown  up  by  Cromwell's 
army  while  they  were  encamped  on  the  Ferry  hill. 
The  town  is  pleasantly  and  advantageously  situated  on 
an  eminence  overlooking  the  bay  of  St.  Margaret's  Hope, 
in  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  consists  chiefly  of  one  prin- 
cipal street,  from  which  a  smaller  street  and  some  lanes 
branch  off  in  different  directions.  The  houses  are  in 
general  well  built,  of  sandstone  or  greenstone ;  and 
many  of  the  older  buildings  have  been  taken  down,  and 
replaced  with  others  of  more  modern  and  handsome 
appearance.  There  are  a  public  subscription  library, 
a  circulating  library,  and  one  exclusively  for  religious 
works,  all  of  which  are  well  supported.  The  environs 
are  pleasant,  and  abound  with  objects  of  interest ;  and 
the  place  has,  on  the  whole,  a  clean  and  cheerful  as- 
pect. 

A  distillery  is  conducted  on  a  very  extensive  scale, 
employing  about  eighty  persons  ;  and  the  produce, 
which  is  chiefly  whisky,  is  shipped  off  for  the  supply  of 
the  London  market.  There  are  two  iron-foundries, 
where  works  of  the  larger  kind  are  cast ;  and  in  con- 
nexion with  them  are  forges,  in  which  steam-engines 
and  various  kinds  of  machinery  are  manufactured,  the 
whole  affording  occupation  to  fifty  persons.  Bricks  for 
common  uses,  and  fire-bricks  of  very  superior  quality, 
are  made  in  great  numbers ;  and  chimney  and  other 
ornaments  are  manufactured,  resembling  freestone  in 
appearance.  There  are  a  tannery,  salt-works,  and  a 
laboratory  for  magnesia,  in  full  operation ;  two  mills 
for  meal  and  flour  ;  one  for  barley;  and  a  mill  worked 
by  steam  for  crushing  bones  for  agricultural  purposes, 
of  which  the  produce  is  sent  to  most  places  on  the 
eastern  coast.  The  town  has  also  a  large  yard  for  build- 
ing and  repairing  ships,  where  a  considerable  number  of 
572 


people  are  engaged.  The  trade  of  the  port  was  once 
rather  more  extensive  than  at  present,  from  the  great 
number  of  persons  employed  in  the  quarries  of  green- 
stone, of  which  vast,  quantities  were  shipped  off  for  paving 
the  streets  of  London,  but  which  has  of  late  been  partly 
superseded  by  the  use  of  granite  from  Aberdeen.  Much 
stone  was  likewise  used  in  the  construction  of  the  pier 
at  Leith  and  the  bridge  of  Stirling,  the  shipping  of  which 
was,  of  course,  discontinued  after  those  works  were  com- 
pleted. At  present,  the  trade  consists  chiefly  in  the 
exportation  of  the  produce  of  coal-mines  and  manufac- 
tories, and  in  the  importation  of  timber,  bark,  and  large 
quantities  of  bones  ;  but  much  stone  is  still  exported. 
In  1843  there  were  twenty-eight  vessels,  varying  from 
twenty  to  160  tons'  burthen,  registered  as  belonging  to 
the  port,  and  mostly  employed  in  the  coasting  trade. 
Steam-boats  sail  from  the  village  of  North  Queensferry, 
in  the  vicinity,  to  Leith,  Stirling,  and  other  ports,  afford- 
ing a  facility  of  intercourse  with  the  principal  towns  in 
this  part  of  the  country ;  and  several  lines  of  good 
turnpike-road,  also,  serve  to  maintain  an  easy  commu- 
nication with  the  neighbouring  market-towns.  An  iron 
railway  has  been  recently  constructed,  in  place  of  a  for- 
mer one  of  wood,  for  conveying  coal,  lime,  bricks,  and 
also  stone  from  the  quarries,  to  the  port,  for  exporta- 
tion. The  market,  on  Monday,  for  grain  and  live 
stock,  is  held  in  a  handsome  and  commodious  market- 
house.  Five  annual  fairs  are  held  in  the  town,  for 
horses,  cattle,  and  various  kinds  of  merchandise,  which 
formerly  were  numerously  attended  by  dealers  from 
various  parts ;  but  very  little  business  is  at  present 
transacted,  except  at  the  cattle-fair  in  May,  and  the 
Lammas  fair  on  the  first  Friday  in  August,  which  latter 
is  resorted  to  by  considerable  numbers  of  people  from 
the  neighbouring  districts,  when  horse  and  foot  races 
regularly  take  place. 

The  inhabitants  of  the 
burgh  received  a  charter  of 
incorporation  at  a  ver)'  early 
period,  which  is  recited  in  a 
charter  granted  by  William 
the  Lion,  and  was  confirmed 
and  enlarged  by  charter  of 
James  VI.,  giving  to  the  bur- 
gesses the  customs  on  ves- 
sels navigating  the  port  from 
the  great  stone  near  Milna- 
thort, on  the  north,  to  the 
middle  of  the  Frith  of  Forth, 
on  the  south  ;  and  from  the  river  Leven,  on  the  east,  to 
the  river  Devon,  on  the  west ;  with  certain  tracts  of 
land,  and  various  other  privileges.  By  this  charter,  the 
government  is  vested  in  a  provost,  two  bailies,  a  dean 
of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and  a  council  of  ten  burgesses, 
assisted  by  a  town-clerk  and  other  officers,  all  chosen 
under  the  regulations  of  the  Municipal  Reform  Act.  The 
provostship  was  made  hereditary,  by  a  grant  of  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots,  in  the  family  of  the  Hendersons,  of 
Fordel ;  and  the  provost  of  this  burgh  was,  in  public 
processions,  next  in  precedence  to  the  provost  of  Edin- 
burgh. By  their  ancient  charter,  the  magistrates  had 
power  of  jurisdiction  in  capital  offences ;  and  a  rising 
ground  near  the  town  still  retains  the  name  of  Gallow- 
hill,  being  the  place  where  criminals  were  formerly  exe- 
cuted.    The  provost,  bailies,  and  the  other  officers  of 


Second  Seal  of  the  Burgh. 


I  N  VE 


I  N  V  E 


the  corporation  were  formerly  all  elected  by  the  coun- 
cil ;  and  the  council  rilled  up  vacancies  as  they  occurred 
from  the  burgesses,  by  a  majority  of  their  own  body. 
There  are  five  trades,  viz.,  the  hammermen,  tailors, 
shoemakers,  bakers,  and  weavers,  which  are  severally 
governed  by  deacons  ;  and  the  freedom  of  the  burgh  is 
obtained  by  becoming  a  member  of  any  one  of  these 
companies,  on  the  payment  of  certain  fees.  The  juris- 
diction of  the  provost  and  bailies,  the  former  of  whom 
is  always  a  justice  of  the  peace  by  virtue  of  his  office,  ex- 
tends over  the  whole  of  the  royalty  of  the  burgh,  and  the 
magistrates  hold  courts  for  the  determination  of  civil 
actions  to  any  amount ;  but  all  criminal  cases,  except 
in  trifling  misdemeanours,  are  referred  to  the  county 
assizes.  The  burgh  unites  with  those  of  Culross,  South 
Queensferry,  Stirling,  and  Dunfermline,  in  returning 
one  member  to  the  imperial  parliament ;  the  right  of 
election  is  vested,  by  the  act  of  the  2nd  and  3rd  of  Wil- 
liam IV.,  in  the  resident  householders  of  the  annual 
value  of  £10  and  upwards.  The  number  of  electors  is 
ninety,  of  whom  thirty-four  are  burgesses  ;  and  the 
number  of  persons  whose  houses  are  below  the  value  of 
£10  per  annum,  is  forty-five,  of  whom  six  are  bur- 
gesses. The  town-hall  is  a  neat  building  of  stone,  and 
is  well  adapted  to  the  use  of  the  corporation,  and  for 
holding  the  courts  :  the  prison,  which  is  only  for  the 
temporary  confinement  of  offenders,  is  small  and  inse- 
cure. The  market-cross  is  a  neat,  and  rather  lofty, 
pillar  of  stone ;  and  between  the  town  and  the  village  of 
North  Ferry,  is  a  handsome  building  originally  erected 
for  a  lazaretto,  but  which  has  been  superseded  by  sta- 
tioning a  frigate  in  the  bay  of  St.  Margaret's  Hope,  for 
the  quarantine  service.  The  annual  revenue  of  the 
burgh  is  between  £600  and  £*00. 

The  parish  extends  for  six  miles  along  the  shore  of 
the  Frith,  including  the  bay  of  St.  Margaret's  Hope,  so 
called  from  the  landing  of  Queen  Margaret ;  it  com- 
prises about  2500  acres,  chiefly  arable,  with  a  moderate 
portion  of  pasture,  and  a  few  acres  in  plantations.  The 
surface  is  greatly  varied,  consisting  of  hills  of  consider- 
able elevation  with  intervening  valleys,  and  level  sands 
stretching  along  the  coast  and  frequently  interrupted 
by  cragged  heights.  In  the  Frith  are  the  rocky  island 
of  Inch-Garvie  and  the  rock  of  Bimar,  which  latter  has 
been  the  cause  of  frequent  shipwrecks.  The  streamlet 
called  theKeithing,  as  already  stated,  here  falls  into  the 
Frith ;  and  two  small  burns,  after  intersecting  the 
parish,  unite  their  streams,  and  also  join  the  harbour. 
The  scenery  is  marked  rather  with  features  of  romantic 
character,  than  of  picturesque  beauty;  and  the  want  of 
ornamental  timber  gives  an  appearance  of  bleakness  to 
the  landscape.  The  soils  are  various,  but  generally  fer- 
tile, and  much  waste  and  mossy  land  has  been  reclaimed 
by  draining,  and  brought  into  profitable  cultivation  ; 
the  system  of  husbandry,  also,  has  been  greatly  im- 
proved. The  crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  beans,  peas, 
potatoes,  and  turnips  ;  the  little  pasture  there  is,  is  on 
the  acclivities  of  the  hills.  The  plantations  are  chiefly 
of  recent  growth,  and  consist  of  larch  and  fir,  inter- 
spersed with  oak,  ash,  beech,  and  elm  trees ;  and  on 
the  banks  of  the  streams  are  some  alder  and  willow. 
The  farm-buildings  are  mostly  substantial  and  commo- 
dious, and  several,  of  modern  erection,  are  of  very  supe- 
rior style  ;  the  lands  are  inclosed  principally  with  hedges 
of  thorn  which  are  kept  in  good  order,  but  a  few  of  the 
573 


fields  are  fenced  with  stone  dykes.  The  substratum  i« 
generally  greenstone,  of  which  the  hills  consist;  and 
limestone  and  sandstone  abound :  coal  is  found  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  parish.  Among  the  minerals  are, 
quartz,  steatite,  felspar,  sulphate  of  barytes,  calcareous 
spar,  and  pyrites  of  iron  ;  and  boulders  of  chlorite  and 
mica-slate  are  frequently  found.  The  greenstone  is 
quarried  extensively  for  building,  paving,  and  for  mend- 
ing the  roads ;  and  large  quantities  are  shipped  from 
the  port  :  the  sandstone  is  also  quarried,  and  sent  to 
the  towns  on  the  neighbouring  coast ;  and  there  are 
quarries  of  limestone  of  excellent  quality,  of  which 
great  quantities  are  forwarded  to  distant  places.  The 
coal  is  likewise  worked  to  a  very  considerable  extent, 
about  30,000  or  40,000  tons  being  annually  raised. 
The  rateable  yearly  value  of  Inverkeithing  is  £7431. 
On  the  estate  of  Duloch  is  an  ancient  mansion  ;  also 
a  modern  house,  the  occasional  residence  of  its  pro- 
prietor ;  and  on  a  promontory  near  St.  Margaret's  Hope 
is  a  handsome  marine  villa. 

Inverkeithing  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dunfermline 
and  synod  of  Fife,  and  in  the  patronage  of  Lady  Baird ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £263.  8.,  with  a  manse,  and  a 
glebe  valued  at  £40  per  annum.  The  church,  which  is 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  is  a  handsome  edifice 
in  the  later  style  of  English  architecture,  built,  with  the 
exception  of  the  tower,  in  1827,  to  replace  the  for- 
mer structure,  destroyed  by  an  accidental  fire  in  1S25. 
It  is  a  conspicuous  feature  in  the  view  of  the  town,  and 
is  adapted  for  a  congregation  of  nearly  1000  persons. 
There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  a  congregation  of  the 
United  Associate  Synod.  The  parochial  school,  for  which 
an  elegant  building  has  been  erected,  and  which  is  also 
the  burgh  school,  affords  a  liberal  education  to  170  scho- 
lars :  the  master,  who  is  appointed  jointly  by  the  town- 
council  and  the  heritors,  has  a  salary  of  £34,  with  £100 
fees,  and  a  house  and  garden.  A  female  school  has  been 
established  for  teaching  reading  and  sewing,  the  mistress 
of  which  is  appointed  by  the  council,  who  pay  her  a  sa- 
lary of  £5,  in  addition  to  the  fees.  There  are  some  Druid- 
ical  remains  on  the  summit  of  Letham  hill ;  and  in  the 
north  of  the  parish  is  a  stone  pillar,  about  ten  feet  in 
height,  on  which  are  rudely-sculptured  figures  of  men 
and  horses,  which  are  much  defaced  by  time  ;  it  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  raised  in  commemoration  of  some 
successful  conflict  with  the  Danes.  On  the  summit  of 
a  rock  in  the  bay  connected  by  a  narrow  isthmus  with 
the  main  land,  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  castle  of 
Rosyth,  consisting  of  the  walls  of  a  square  tower,  which, 
from  the  traces  of  foundations,  appears  to  have  been  at 
the  north-east  angle  of  a  quadrangular  range  of  build- 
ings. The  castle  is  said  to  have  been  anciently  the 
baronial  seat  of  the  Stuarts,  of  Rosyth,  descendants  of 
Walter,  high  steward  of  Scotland,  and  father  of  Robert 
II. ;  it  is  now  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun. 
Over  the  gateway  is  a  coat  of  arms,  much  mutilated,  but 
clearly  Queen  Mary's,  surmounted  by  a  crown,  with 
the  inscription  M.  R.  and  the  date  1561  ;  and  near  the 
door  on  the  south  side  is  a  couplet  in  the  Scottish  dia- 
lect, having  allusion  to  the  bell,  as  summoning  the 
guests  to  the  banquet.  On  the  transoms  of  thejwin- 
dows  in  the  hall,  also,  are  engraved  the  initials  M.  S. 
and  M.  N.  An  old  building  in  the  town  is  said  to  be 
the  remains  of  the  residence  of  Annabella  Drummond, 
queen  of  Robert  III.,  in  which  she  died  in  1403  :  the 


I  N  V  E 


IN.VE 


teKement,  though  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  is  exempt 
from  the  jurisdiction  of  the  magistrates,  who,  under 
their  charter  from  that  monarch,  were  obliged  to  pay 
her  100  shillings  annually.  Near  it  are  numerous 
ruins,  among  which  were  recently  discovered  the  foun- 
dations of  an  ancient  chapel  belonging  to  one  of  the 
monasteries  founded  here  for  brethren  of  the  Franciscan 
and  Dominican  orders.  There  are  also  in  the  town 
some  old  houses  well  known  to  have  been  residences  of 
the  families  of  Fordel  and  Rosebery.  During  the  re- 
pairs of  the  former  church,  was  found  a  beautiful  hex- 
agonal font  of  sandstone,  richly  sculptured  on  each 
face  of  the  shaft  with  the  bust  of  an  angel  with  expanded 
wings,  bearing  on  its  breast  a  shield  of  antique  form, 
in  which  were  the  arms  of  Scotland  and  of  several  of 
the  monarchs;  it  had  been  apparently  buried  with 
care. 

IN  VERKEITHNY,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Banff, 
10  miles  (N.  E.)  from  Huntly:  containing  6S7  inha- 
bitants. This  place  takes  its  name  from  the  large  burn 
of  Keithny,  which  here  falls  into  the  river  Doveran,  on 
the  south  side  whereof  the  parish  lies,  stretching  in 
length,  along  the  stream,  between  five  and  six  miles, 
and  measuring  from  four  miles  to  five  in  breadth.  On 
the  north,  the  parish  is  bounded  by  that  of  Marnoch, 
on  the  west  by  Rothiemay,  on  the  south-west  and  south 
by  Forgue,  and  on  the  east  by  Turriff,  the  two  last 
parishes  in  the  county  of  Aberdeen.  It  is  computed  to 
contain  5610  acres,  of  which  4000  are  cultivated,  800 
waste  or  natural  pasture,  and  the  same  number  woods 
and  plantations,  and  undivided  common.  There  is 
scarcely  anything  to  be  met  with  in  the  nature  of  peat 
or  moss.  The  soil  is  tolerably  good,  and  a  considerable 
quantity  of  grain  is  annually  raised ;  the  land  is  farmed 
upon  the  most  approved  system,  and  the  rents  average 
about  15s  per  acre,  the  whole  rateable  annual  value  of 
the  parish  amounting  to  £3343.  The  public  road  from 
Banff  to  Huntly,  to  the  former  of  which  places  the 
agricultural  produce  is  mostly  sent,  passes  through  the 
western  portion  of  the  parish.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of 
Turriff  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  and  the  patronage  is 
vested  in  Thomas  G.  Bremner,  Esq.  The  stipend  of  the 
minister  is  £215,  with  a  manse,  built  in  1787,  and  a 
glebe  of  nearly  six  acres,  valued  in  £10  per  annum.  The 
church,  a  very  plain  edifice,  stands  in  a  narrow  vale, 
near  the  bank  of  the  Doveran,  where,  also,  is  the  manse. 
The  parochial  school  affords  instruction  in  the  usual 
branches ;  the  salary  of  the  master  is  £34  per  annum, 
with  about  £30  fees,  and  a  house  :  fifty  children  are 
educated. 

INVERLEVEN,  in  the  county  of  Fife.— -See  Duu- 

EIESIDE. 

INVERMORRISTON,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Urquhart  and  Glenmorriston,  county  of  Inver- 
ness, 2  \\  miles  (S.  W.  by  W.)  from  Bonar  Ferry;  con- 
taining 94  inhabitants.  This  place  is  situated  at  the 
confluence  of  the  river  Morriston  with  Loch  Ness ;  and 
an  excellent  road  has  been  formed  from  it,  coastwise, 
along  the  north-west  shore  of  the  loch,  to  Bonar  Ferry. 
The  Grant  family  have  a  handsome  seat  in  the  vicinity ; 
and  there  is  an  excellent  inn.  A  missionary  minister 
preaches  here,  and  in  the  upper  part  of  the  glen,  alter- 
nately ;  and  a  branch  of  the  parochial  school  is  in  the 
village. 

574 


Arms 


INVERNESS,  a  royal 
burgh,  sea-port  town,  and 
parish,  in  the  county  of 
Inverness,  of  which  it  is 
the  chief  town,  156  miles 
(N.  N.  W.)  from  Edinburgh  ; 
containing,  with  the  villages 
of  Balloch,  Clachnaharry, 
Culcaboch,  Hilton,  Resawrie, 
and  Smithtown  of  Culloden, 
15,418  inhabitants,  ofwhom, 
9100  are  in  the  burgh.  This 
place,  which  derives  its  name 
from  its  situation  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  Ness,  is 
the  largest  and  most  flourishing  town  in  the  Highlands, 
of  which  it  may  be  considered  as  the  capital.  It  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  ancient  metropolis  of  the 
kingdom  of  the  Picts,  and  the  residence  of  their  kings 
previously  to  the  union  of  the  Picts  and  Scots  in  the 
reign  of  Kenneth  II. ;  and  to  have  been  visited,  in  the 
sixth  century,  by  St.  Columba,  for  the  conversion  of  the 
inhabitants  to  the  Christian  religion.  The  castle,  for 
many  years  the  occasional  residence  of  the  Scottish 
kings,  is  identified  by  Shakspeare  as  the  scene  of  the 
murder  of  Duncan  by  Macbeth,  lord  of  Ross  and  Moray, 
though,  by  most  historians,  the  perpetration  of  that 
crime  is  said  to  have  taken  place  in  the  vicinity  of  Elgin. 
It  was  razed  to  the  ground,  about  the  middle  of  the 
11th  century,  by  Duncan's  son,  Malcolm  Canmore,  who 
erected,  near  the  site,  a  strong  fortress  which  was  held 
for  the  king  by  one  of  the  most  powerful  of  the  nobility, 
with  a  view  to  keep  the  inhabitants  of  this  Highland 
district  in  subjection.  Soon  after  the  completion  of 
this  castle,  some  houses  were  raised  in  its  immediate 
neighbourhood ;  and  a  town  gradually  arose,  which, 
under  its  protection,  increased  in  extent  and  import- 
ance, and  was  frequently  visited  by  the  kings.  Though 
often  plundered  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  Isles  and  by 
the  Highlanders,  the  town  continued  to  prosper ;  and 
in  the  13th  century,  it  had  attained  a  considerable 
degree  of  commercial  consequence,  being  inhabited  by 
numerous  Flemings  and  Saxons,  who  had  settled  here, 
and  who  carried  on  a  lucrative  trade  in  the  exportation 
of  hides,  malt,  and  various  kinds  of  fish. 

In  1303,  the  castle  was  besieged  and  taken  by 
Edward  I.  of  England ;  but  it  was  soon  afterwards 
retaken  by  the  adherents  of  Robert  Bruce,  who  was 
then  raising  forces  in  the  Western  Islands,  to  assert  his 
right  to  the  throne ;  and  it  remained  in  the  possession 
of  his  successors,  kings  of  Scotland,  till  the  reign  of 
James  I.  In  1411,  the  town  was  plundered  by  Donald, 
Lord  of  the  Isles,  who,  in  his  march  from  the  battle 
of  Harlaw,  set  fire  to  the  castle,  which  was  nearly  de- 
stroyed ;  it  was,  however,  restored  by  the  king,  who 
repaired  the  fortifications,  and  made  the  chief  of  the 
Macintosh  family,  descended  from  one  of  the  earls  of 
Fife,  governor.  The  castle  continued  for  some  time  to 
be  a  place  for  the  confinement  of  state  prisoners,  and, 
in  1508,  was  placed  under  the  command  of  the  Earl  of 
Huntly,  who  was  also  created  heritable  sheriff  of  the 
county.  On  the  insurrection  of  a  succeeding  earl,  in 
1562,  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  in  her  progress  to  the 
north  to  quell  the  rebellion,  came  to  Inverness  with  a 
few  attendants,  and,  being  refused  admission  into  the 
castle,  at  that  time  held   in  her  name  by  the  insurgent 


I  N  V  E 


I  N  V  E 


earl,  lodged  in  a  house  at  the  base  of  the  fortress. 
From  this  perilous  situation  the  queen  was  relieved  by 
the  Frasers,  Monroes,  and  Mackenzies,  whom  her  pro- 
clamation had  brought  to  her  assistance  ;  the  castle  was 
compelled  to  surrender,  and  the  deputy-governor  was 
executed  on  the  spot.  The  queen,  after  remaining  for 
four  days  in  the  castle,  left  the  town,  and  retired  to 
Aberdeen. 

During  the  war  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.,  the  castle 
was  an  object  of  constant  dispute  between  the  con- 
tending parties.  It  was  repeatedly  besieged  and  taken 
for  the  king  by  the  Marquess  of  Montrose,  and  as  fre- 
quently retaken  by  his  opponents:  in  1649,  it  was 
nearly  demolished  by  the  royalists  under  Sir  Thomas 
Urquhart ;  and  during  the  same  year,  the  town  was 
seized  by  the  royal  forces  under  Generals  Middleton 
and  Monroe.  The  castle  was,  however,  recaptured  by 
Cromwell,  who  erected  a  strong  fortress  for  the  defence 
of  the  town,  capable  of  accommodating  1000  men,  to 
provide  materials  for  which  he  destroyed  the  monas- 
teries of  Kinloss  and  Beauly,  and  all  the  religious  houses 
in  the  neighbourhood.  After  the  Restoration,  this  for- 
tress was  demolished,  to  conciliate  the  Highlanders, 
who  had  been  held  under  powerful  restraint,  and  se- 
verely annoyed,  by  the  garrison  of  Cromwell ;  and 
several  of  the  more  ancient  houses  in  the  town  were 
built  with  the  materials.  The  royal  castle  which  had 
been  nearly  demolished  by  Urquhart  was,  at  the  time 
of  the  Revolution,  restored  by  government,  at  an  ex- 
pense of  £50,000,  and  garrisoned,  in  order  to  keep  the 
Highlanders  in  subjection.  It  was  still  further  im- 
proved in  1718,  by  the  erection  of  a  house  for  the 
governor ;  and  the  whole  of  the  buildings,  called  Fort- 
George,  formed  a  royal  garrison  under  a  governor  chosen 
by  the  crown,  an  appointment  held  always  by  one  of 
the  principal  of  the  nobility,  and  which,  though  it  sub- 
sequently became  merely  nominal,  was  possessed  by  the 
Gordon  family  till  the  death  of  the  last  duke,  in  1836. 
In  1745,  the  castle  was  assaulted  by  the  forces  under 
the  command  of  Charles  Edward,  son  of  the  Pretender, 
by  whom  it  was  taken  and  destroyed.  That  prince,  on 
the  night  last  but  one  before  the  battle  of  Culloden, 
which  took  place  near  the  town,  slept  at  the  house  of 
Lady  Drummuir,  in  Church-street ;  and  on  the  night 
after  the  battle,  the  Duke  of  Cumberland,  who  made 
Inverness  his  head-quarters,  slept  in  the  same  house, 
which  appears  to  have  been  almost  the  only  one  of  any 
importance  in  the  place.  The  circulation  of  money  by 
the  troops  of  the  duke  during  their  stay  in  the  town, 
appears  to  have  contributed  greatly  to  its  restoration 
from  that  state  of  decay  into  which,  from  the  time  of 
the  Revolution,  it  had  been  gradually  falling.  The 
walls  of  the  royal  castle,  which  remained  nearly  entire 
for  some  years,  have  been  removed,  and  the  site  con- 
verted into  a  bowling-green. 

The  town  is  situated  chiefly  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
river  Ness,  near  its  influx  into  the  Moray  Frith,  and 
consists  of  several  well-formed  and  spacious  streets, 
crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  houses  are 
generally  substantial  and  well  built,  and  many  are  large 
and  of  handsome  appearance,  the  residence  of  opulent 
families ;  the  streets  are  paved  with  granite,  and  the 
foot-paths  laid  with  Caithness  flags.  The  town  is 
lighted  with  gas  from  works  erected  at  an  expense 
of  £8757,  by  a  company  established  under  an  act  of 
575 


parliament ;  and  the  inhabitants  are  supplied  with  water 
raised  from  the  river  by  machinery,  and  distributed  to 
the  houses  by  pipes.  There  are  several  subscription 
and  circulating  libraries,  and  two  public  reading  and 
news  rooms,  all  well  furnished  with  newspapers,  of 
which  three  are  published  in  the  town,  and  with  the 
most  interesting  periodical  works.  The  Northern  In- 
stitution for  the  promotion  of  science  and  literature, 
established  here  in  1825,  has  been  discontinued;  and 
its  valuable  library,  and  museum  of  antiquities  and 
natural  curiosities,  have  been  presented  to  the  directors 
of  the  Inverness  Academy,  for  the  use  of  the  pupils. 
In  Church-street  is  a  plain  neat  building  called  the 
Northern  Meeting  Rooms,  containing  an  elegant  ball- 
room, in  which  card  and  dancing  assemblies  are  held, 
a  spacious  dining-room,  and  other  rooms,  in  which 
public  meetings  take  place.  Leading  from  the  extremity 
of  the  High-street,  is  a  handsome  bridge  of  stone,  of 
seven  arches,  erected  in  16S5,  by  subscription,  at  a  cost 
of  £1300,  and  connecting  the  principal  part  of  the  town 
with  that  portion  of  it  which  lies  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  river,  and  with  the  various  suburbs  in  that  vicinity. 
Above  this  is  the  new  bridge,  of  wood,  built  in  1808,  by 
private  subscription,  at  an  expense  of  £4000.  The 
environs  abound  with  interesting  and  pleasing  scenery  : 
in  the  river,  which  is  here  of  great  breadth,  are  two 
picturesque  islands,  beautifully  laid  out  in  lawns,  shrub- 
beries, and  walks,  connected  with  the  opposite  banks 
of  the  stream  by  suspension-bridges,  and  forming  de- 
lightful promenades.  There  are  several  good  family 
hotels  in  the  town,  of  which  the  Caledonian  hotel  is 
very  extensive,  and  elegantly  fitted  up ;  also  numerous 
commodious  inns  and  lodging-houses. 

The  chief  manufacture  carried  on  is  that  of  cloth  for 
bags,  sacking,  and  tarpaulins,  for  the  London  market, 
and  for  exportation  to  the  East  and  West  Indies  ;  about 
300  persons  are  employed,  of  whom  more  than  half  are 
women.  The  weaving  of  Highland  plaids  and  tartans 
is  also  pursued  to  a  small  extent,  affording  occupation 
to  twenty-five  persons  ;  there  are  three  tanneries,  a  dis- 
tillery, and  two  public  breweries;  and  about  a  hundred 
families  are  supported  by  the  sawing  of  timber.  The 
trade  of  the  port  consists  chiefly  in  the  exportation  of 
wool,  grain,  and  hempen  cloths  ;  and  the  importation 
of  hemp  and  timber  from  the  Baltic,  and  tar  from  Arch- 
angel, of  which  last,  upon  an  average,  from  400  to  600 
tons  are  annually  landed.  There  are  six  vessels  belong- 
ing to  the  port,  of  130  tons'  average  burthen,  employed 
in  the  trade  with  London  ;  three  in  that  of  Leith  ;  and 
two  in  that  of  Aberdeen  :  the  custom  duties  in  the  year 
1843  amounted  to  £4357.  Since  the  completion  of  the 
Caledonian  canal,  the  commerce  of  the  town  has  been 
greatly  extended,  a  direct  line  of  intercourse  having  been 
thus  opened  with  Glasgow  and  Liverpool,  and  with  the 
manufacturing  districts  in  their  vicinity.  The  jurisdic- 
tion of  the  port,  which  is  the  head  of  the  district,  ex- 
tends from  the  mouth  of  the  river  Spey  to  Dornoch 
Frith  on  the  east,  and  from  Assynt  Point  to  Ardnamur- 
chan  on  the  west.  The  aggregate  tonnage  of  the  ship- 
ping of  the  whole  district  is  about  S000  tons,  of  which 
nearly  two-thirds  belong  to  this  place.  The  harbour,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  is  accessible  to  vessels  of  250 
tons  ;  and  ships  of  500  tons  can  anchor  with  safety  in 
the  Kessock  roads,  or  deliver  their  cargoes  at  the  wharfs 
of  the   Caledonian  canal,  within  a  mile  of  the  town. 


I  N  V  E 


I  N  V  E 


During  the  summer  months,  steam-vessels  sail  regularly 
from  Inverness  to  Leith,  Aberdeen,  and  London.  Ship- 
building has  within  the  last  few  years  been  introduced, 
and  is  carried  on  upon  a  moderate  scale.  The  market- 
days  are  Tuesday  and  Friday,  when  butchers'  meat,  eggs, 
and  poultry,  and  garden  and  agricultural  produce  of 
every  kind,  are  exposed  for  sale  in  great  abundance. 
Fairs  are  held  in  February,  July,  August,  and  Novem- 
ber, for  cattle,  horses,  butter,  cheese,  home-made  stuffs, 
and  various  other  kinds  of  merchandise.  The  July  fair 
is  attended  by  the  principal  Highland  sheep-farmers, 
and  by  the  south  of  Scotland  and  English  wool- staplers, 
when  not  less  than  100,000  head  of  sheep,  and  an  equal 
number  of  stones  of  wool,  are  generally  sold.  The  ex- 
change, situated  near  the  town-hall,  is  a  neat  building, 
well  adapted  for  its  use  ;  and  the  old  cross,  in  front  of 
it,  is  still  in  good  preservation. 

The  Caledonian  Canal,  which  extends  from  Inver- 
ness, on  the  north-east,  to  Corpach,  near  Fort-William, 
on  the  south-west,  intersects  Scotland  from  sea  to  sea. 
It  passes  for  eight  miles  within  the  parish  ;  and  its  entire 
length  is  60^  miles,  of  which  twenty-three  miles  have 
been  formed  by  excavation,  and  the  remainder  consists 
of  a  succession  of  natural  lakes,  Loch  Ness,  Loch  Oich, 
and  Loch  Lochy.  The  canal  is  120  feet  wide  at  the 
top,  fifty  at  the  bottom,  and  the  full  depth  of  water  cor- 
responding to  these  dimensions  was  proposed  to  be 
twenty  feet ;  but  the  works  have  not  hitherto  been 
completed  to  afford  a  greater  practicable  depth  than 
thirteen  or  fourteen  feet.  There  are  twenty-eight  locks 
on  the  line,  fourteen  ascending  to,  and  fourteen  descend- 
ing from,  the  summit  level  in  Loch  Oich,  which  is  about 
ninety-five  feet  above  ordinary  high-water  at  Inver- 
ness. The  locks  are  1/0  feet  long,  by  forty  in  breadth, 
the  rise  in  most  cases  being  eight  feet ;  and  the  bridges 
are  of  cast-iron,  and  swing  horizontally.  Acts  for  the 
construction  of  the  canal  were  passed  in  1803  and  1804  ; 
the  works  were  commenced  under  the  superintendence 
of  Mr.  Telford,  in  1S05  ;  and  after  an  expenditure  of 
nearly  £1,000,000  sterling,  the  navigation  was  opened 
in  1822,  in  the  unfinished  state  already  mentioned,  and 
in  which  it  has  ever  since  remained.  The  present  rate 
of  tonnage-duty,  levied  on  sailing-vessels  or  steam-boats 
laden  or  unladen,  passing  along  the  canal  in  either 
direction,  is  one  farthing  per  ton  per  mile ;  there  being 
no  dues  chargeable  upon  goods  of  any  description.  The 
produce  of  the  rate  amounted,  for  the  year  ending 
30th  April,  1842,  to  £2723  ;  and  the  number  of  pas- 
sages made  by  vessels  during  that  period  was  1350. 
Since  then,  the  navigation  has  only  been  partially  open, 
at  irregular  intervals,  owing  to  the  works  not  being  in  a 
perfect  state.  The  defective  and  unsatisfactory  condi- 
tion of  the  canal  has,  however,  of  late  engaged  the  seri- 
ous attention  of  government ;  and  nautical  and  engi- 
neering surveys  and  reports  have  been  made  by  Sir 
Edward  Parry  and  Mr.  Walker,  who  concur  in  recom- 
mending the  efficient  repair  and  completion  of  the 
works,  with  the  establishment  of  steam  tug-boats  and 
other  facilities  for  the  accommodation  of  the  larger 
classes  of  commercial  shipping.  The  estimated  expense 
of  these  operations  is  about  £200,000,  towards  which 
the  sum  of  £105,000  was  voted  by  parliament  up  to 
1844  ;  and  a  contract  has  been  entered  into  for  the 
engineering  details,  amounting  to  £136,000,  which  will 
occupy  a  period  of  three  years  from  their  commence- 
576 


'Burgh  Seal. 


ment  in  October,  1843.  The  passage  from  sea  to  sea  is 
necessarily  interrupted  during  their  progress  ;  but  parts 
of  the  canal  are  kept  open,  and  made  available  for  the 
local  traffic. 

The  town  was  made  a  royal 
burgh  by  charter  of  David 
I. ;  and  additional  privileges 
were  granted  by  succeeding 
monarchs  to  the  time  of 
James  VI.,  under  whose  char- 
ter, in  1591,  the  government 
is  vested  in  a  provost,  four 
bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a 
treasurer,  and  fourteen  coun- 
cillors. The  councillors  were 
formerly  elected  by  a  majo- 
rity of  their  own  body,  five  of 
whom  retired  every  year,  and  were  replaced  :  the  provost, 
bailies,  dean  of  guild,  and  treasurer  remained  members 
of  the  council  for  one  year  after  the  expiration  of  their 
office,  and  of  course  were  not  of  the  number  that  retired. 
There  are  six  incorporated  trades,  viz.,  the  hammermen, 
Wrights  and  coopers,  shoemakers,  tailors,  weavers,  and 
skinners,  into  one  of  which  a  person  must  enter  before 
he  is  eligible  to  the  council  or  magistracy ;  the  fees  of 
admission  vary  from  £1.  1.  to  £3  for  sons  of  freemen, 
for  apprentices  from  £5  to  £6,  and  for  strangers  from 
£20  to  £30.  The  jurisdiction  of  the  burgh  extends 
over  the  whole  of  the  ancient  and  enlarged  royalty ;  and 
the  magistrates  hold  courts,  with  jurisdiction  equivalent 
to  that  of  the  sheriff,  for  the  determination  of  civil  pleas, 
and  the  trial  of  criminal  offences,  in  which  the  town- 
clerk  acts  as  assessor.  The  average  number  of  civil 
causes  tried  annually  is  forty,  of  from  £2  to  £20  in 
amount  ;  and  of  criminal  causes  two.  There  is  also  a 
court  held  by  the  dean  of  guild,  as  well  as  a  sheriff's 
court  for  the  recovery  of  small  debts.  The  burgh,  in 
conjunction  with  the  burghs  of  Forres,  Fortrose,  and 
Nairn,  returns  a  member  to  the  imperial  parliament ; 
the  right  of  election  is  vested  in  the  resident  £10  house- 
holders. The  town-hall,  at  the  extremity  of  Church- 
street,  was  erected  in  170S,  and  contains  the  necessary 
accommodations  for  transacting  the  public  business  : 
the  gaol,  erected  in  1791)  has  a  handsome  spire  150  feet 
in  height,  but  is  ill  adapted  for  the  classification  of  pri- 
soners. The  county-hall,  situated  on  the  Castle  Hill,  is 
a  good  building  in  the  castellated  style,  erected  at  an 
expense  of  £7000,  after  a  design  by  Mr.  Burn,  of  Edin- 
burgh, and  has  the  requisite  court-rooms  and  offices  : 
immediately  adjoining  is  a  site  reserved  for  the  erection 
of  a  new  gaol  for  the  county  and  the  town. 

The  parish  extends  along  the  coast  of  the  Moray 
and  Beauly  Friths,  and  is  about  fourteen  miles  in  length 
and  two  and  a  half  in  average  breadth,  comprising  an 
area  of  12,000  acres,  of  which  9000  are  arable,  and  the 
remainder,  of  which  1000  might  be  brought  into  culti- 
vation, woodland,  plantations,  and  waste.  The  surface, 
of  which  a  considerable  portion,  forming  part  of  the 
Caledonian  valley,  or  great  Glen  of  Albin,  is  tolerably 
level,  is  diversified  on  each  side  by  the  mountainous 
chains  which  bound  the  vale,  and  which,  towards  the 
coast,  decrease  in  height.  These  mountains  subside  on 
the  east  into  a  smooth  ridge  having  an  elevation  of 
about  400  feet,  and  on  the  west  divide  into  groups  of 
picturesque   hills,  terminating   in  Craig-Phadric,  a  re- 


I  N  V  E 


I  N  V  E 


markable  elevation  of  vitrified  rock,  with  a  tabular  sum- 
mit, to  which  the  ascent  is  by  precipitous  and  rugged 
acclivities.  Along  the  line  of  coast,  which  is  marked 
with  bays  of  gentle  curvature,  is  a  level  tract  of  rich 
land  in  the  best  state  of  cultivation  ;  and  most  of  the 
higher  grounds  are  beautifully  ornamented  with  luxuri- 
ant woods,  and  plantations  of  Scotch  fir,  larch,  ash,  elm, 
beech,  and  oak.  The  river  Ness,  which  has  its  source 
in  Loch  Ness,  after  a  course  of  eight  miles,  flows 
through  the  parish  into  the  bay  opposite  Kessock  point, 
between  the  Moray  and  Beauly  Friths ;  and  there  are 
numerous  rivulets,  of  which  several  in  their  progress 
form  picturesque  cascades.  The  Ness  formerly  abounded 
with  salmon,  and  the  fisheries  on  it  produced  a  rental 
of  £1 100  per  annum,  which,  within  the  last  thirty  years, 
has  been  reduced  to  £370;  and  there  is  a  prospect  of 
a  still  further  reduction.  A  few  herrings  or  coal-fish 
are  occasionally  taken  on  the  sea-shore.  The  prevail- 
ing scenery  is  marked  with  features,  in  some  parts  of 
grandeur,  and  in  others  of  romantic  beauty  ;  and  the 
views  from  the  higher  grounds  are  extensive  and  richly 
varied.  Numerous  handsome  seats  of  the  Highland 
gentry  are  situated  in  the  glens,  and  on  the  elevated 
ridges  which  intersect  the  parish ;  and  the  pleasing 
hamlets  of  their  tenantry  are  scattered  through  the 
various  districts.  There  are  also  many  tastefully  orna- 
mented villas  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the 
town.  The  soil  in  the  upper  lands  is  light  and  sandy, 
resting  on  a  substratum  of  gravel ;  and  in  the  lower 
lands,  a  deep  rich  loam,  intermixed  with  clay :  the 
crops  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  hay,  and  the  usual  green 
crops.  The  system  of  agriculture  is  advanced;  the 
lands  are  well  inclosed  with  fences  of  stone  or  hedges  ; 
and  the  farm  houses  and  offices  are  generally  substantial 
and  commodious.  Considerable  portions  of  waste  have 
been  reclaimed  and  brought  into  profitable  cultivation  ; 
and  all  the  more  recent  improvements  in  implements  of 
husbandry  have  been  adopted.  The  cattle  are  usually 
of  a  mixed  breed,  partakiug  of  the  OldHighlaud,  Moray, 
and  Ayrshire  kinds ;  and  considerable  attention  is  paid 
in  rearing  them  for  the  dairy,  and  also  for  the  market. 
There  are  some  quarries  of  red  and  of  grey  sandstone, 
which  are  wrought  to  a  moderate  extent,  chiefly  for 
domestic  purposes.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
parish  is  £30,258,  including  £10,500  for  the  burgh. 
Among  the  gentlemen's  seats  are,  Culloden  House, 
Raigmore  House,  New  Castle,  the  Inches,  Culduthel, 
Doehfour,  Dunain,  and  Muirtown,  all  beautifully  situ- 
ated in  richly-planted  demesnes. 

The  parish,  with  which  that  of  Bona  was  united  at  a 
time  not  distinctly  known,  is  the  head  of  the  presbytery 
of  Inverness,  in  the  synod  of  Moray.  There  are  three 
parochial  ministers,  who  officiate  alternately  in  the  two 
ancient  chtjrchks.  The  first  aud  second  have  each  a 
stipend  of  £276.  10.,  with  a  small  allowance  in  lieu  of 
the  manses,  which,  being  ruinous,  were  sold  for  incon- 
siderable sums,  of  which  they  receive  the  interest  re- 
spectively ;  and  the  proceeds  of  the  glebe,  amounting 
to  £100  per  annum,  are  equally  divided  between  them. 
The  third  minister  has  a  stipend  of  £200,  of  which  part 
is  paid  from  the  exchequer ;  but  he  has  neither  manse 
nor  glebe.  Of  the  two  old  churches,  the  one  called  the 
High  church,  in  which  divine  service  is  performed  only 
in  the  English  language,  was  built  in  1772;  it  is  a  plain 
edifice  containing  1260  sittings,  and  has  an  ancient 
Vol.  I.— 577 


square  tower,  said  to  have  been  erected  by  Oliver  Crom- 
well. The  other,  called  the  Gaelic  church,  because  the 
service  is  performed  in  that  language,  was  built  in  1794, 
and  is  also  a  plain  structure,  containing  1220  sittings. 
The  patronage  is  in  the  Crown  and  Lord  Lovat ;  but 
the  latter  has  transferred  his  portion  of  it,  during  his 
life,  to  Professor  Scott,  of  King's  College,  Aberdeen. 
The  late  quoad  sacra  parish  of  North  Church  was  sepa- 
rated from  the  parish  of  Inverness  by  act  of  the  General 
Assembly:  the  church,  erected  in  1S37,  at  a  cost  of 
£1400,  raised  by  subscription,  aided  by  a  grant  from 
the  Assembly,  is  a  neat  structure  containing  1033  sit- 
tings. The  late  quoad  sacra  parish  of  East  Inverness 
was  nearly  five  miles  in  length  and  about  two  miles  in 
extreme  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  5000  acres,  and 
including  an  extensive  rural  district :  the  church,  built 
in  179S,  at  a  cost  of  £1400,  by  subscription,  and  altered 
and  repaired  in  1822,  has  1177  sittings.  There  is  a 
preaching  station  in  the  ancient  parish  of  Bona,  where 
divine  service  is  performed  by  the  assistant  of  one 
of  the  ministers  of  the  parish.  The  episcopal  chapel, 
erected  in  1801,  at  a  cost  of  £1000,  is  a  neat  building  ; 
and  there  are  places  of  worship  for  the  United  Seces- 
sion, Independents,  and  Wesleyans ;  and  a  Roman 
Catholic  chapel,  erected  in  1S36,  at  an  expense  of 
£2000.  There  are  also  places  of  worship  for  members 
of  the  Free  Church. 

The  old  burgh  grammar  school  has  long  merged  into 
the  Royal  Academy,  founded  in  1792,  for  the  education 
of  children  in  the  higher  classes  of  the  Highland  popu- 
lation ;  incorporated  by  royal  charter  ;  and  endowed  by 
liberal  subscriptions,  and  the  transfer  of  the  funds  ap- 
propriated by  the  burgh  to  the  support  of  the  old 
grammar  school.  To  these  sources  of  income  has  been 
added  a  munificent  bequest  of  propert)',  now  amounting 
to  £26,794,  by  Captain  William  Macintosh,  of  Farr,  in 
1S03,  for  the  education  of  boys  of  that  name,  of  the 
families  of  Farr,  Holm,  Dalmigavie,  and  Kellachy,  or 
the  nearest  of  kin,  of  whom  there  are  nearly  forty  in 
the  establishment.  The  academy  is  under  the  direction 
of  the  provost  and  magistrates  of  the  burgh,  the  sheriff 
of  the  county,  the  moderator  of  the  presbytery,  and  a 
committee  of  five  persons  chosen  annually  from  the 
subscribers;  and  the  instruction  is  given  by  a  rector, 
who  has  a  salary  of  £250  per  annum,  without  any  fees, 
and  four  classical  and  other  masters,  who,  in  addition 
to  their  fees,  have  salaries  varying  from  £30  to  £40 
each.  The  course  of  studies  consists  of  the  classics, 
mathematics,  the  elements  of  chemistry,  natural  history, 
and  philosophy,  with  all  the  branches  of  a  commercial 
education  :  there  are  at  present  about  300  pupils.  Mr. 
John  Raining,  of  Norwich,  in  1747,  bequeathed  £1000 
to  the  General  Assembly,  for  the  foundation  of  a  school, 
which  has  been  established  here,  and  placed  under  the 
direction  of  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Know- 
ledge ;  it  has  two  masters,  who  receive  salaries  of 
£4S  and  £40  per  annum,  respectively,  with  a  house 
and  garden  each  ;  and  the  number  of  pupils  is  250. 
There  are  also  two  other  schools  in  the  parish,  of  which 
the  masters  have  salaries  of  £17  and  £15  each,  sup- 
ported by  the  same  society,  A  large  school,  likewise, 
has  recently  been  erected  by  the  magistrates,  to  whom 
the  Rev.  Dr.  Bell  bequeathed  £10,000,  in  trust,  for  the 
foundation  and  support  of  schools  on  the  Madras  system. 
The  Infirmary,  to  which  is  attached  a  lunatic  asylum, 

4  E 


IN  V  E 


I  N  V  E 


was  founded  in  1804,  chiefly  through  the  exertions  of 
the  provost,  William  Inglis,  Esq.,  and  is  supported  by- 
subscriptions  and  donations.  It  is  under  the  direction 
of  the  magistrates  of  the  burgh,  the  sheriff  of  the  county, 
the  moderator  of  the  presbytery,  the  ministers  of  the 
parish,  and  a  committee  of  subscribers  annually  chosen ; 
the  medical  department  is  superintended  by  the  faculty, 
who  visit  the  institution  gratuitously,  a  resident  house- 
surgeon  and  apothecary,  a  matron,  nurses,  and  the  re- 
quisite attendants.  The  building,  which  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  beyond  the  town, 
is  a  handsome  and  spacious  structure,  including  a  dis- 
tinct arrangement  for  the  asylum,  which  is  detached 
from  the  infirmary.  The  latter  contains  numerous  airy 
and  well- ventilated  wards  for  the  various  classes  of 
patients,  with  hot  and  cold  baths.  The  Dispensary, 
situated  on  Muirtown  Green,  was  established  in  1832, 
for  administering  advice  and  medicines  to  the  poor,  and 
has  afforded  extensive  relief ;  it  is  wholly  supported  by 
subscription.  There  are  also  several  benefit  societies  in 
the  town,  which  have  tended  to  diminish  the  number 
of  applications  for  parochial  relief.  Mr.  Jonathan  Ander- 
son, of  Glasgow,  bequeathed  to  the  magistrates  property 
now  amounting  to  £3845  ;  and  Mr.  Klien,  also,  be- 
queathed £1000,  of  which  the  interest  is  distributed 
annually  among  decayed  householders.  The  United 
Charitable  Institutions,  for  which  a  neat  building  has  been 
erected  on  an  eminence  to  the  south  of  the  Castle  Hill, 
to  which  it  is  proposed  to  add  a  tower,  fitted  up  for  an 
observatory,  include  an  infant  school,  a  female  school, 
a  female  work  society,  and  an  association  for  the  distri- 
bution of  blankets  and  clothing  to  the  poor. 

Above  the  village  of  Clachnaharry,  to  the  west  of  the 
town,  are  some  rocky  eminences  called  the  Watchman  s 
stones,  where  anciently  a  guard  was  stationed  to  give 
notice  of  the  approach  of  any  hostile  force,  and  on  one 
of  which  a  lofty  column  was  erected  by  the  late  H.  R. 
Duff,  Esq.,  of  Muirtown,  to  commemorate  a  sanguinary 
conflict  that  took  place  in  1333,  between  the  Clan 
Chattan  and  the  Monroes  of  Fowlis.  Near  these  emi- 
nences is  the  hill  of  Craig  Phadric,  on  the  summit  of 
which,  at  an  elevation  of  435  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  is  a  vitrified  fortress  with  a  double  vallum,  exhibiting 
heaps  of  boulder  stones  strongly  cemented  by  fire.  It 
was  connected  with  a  chain  of  similar  fortresses  extend- 
ing in  various  directions  into  the  centre  of  the  county, 
and  upon  which  beacon-fires  were  anciently  lighted,  to 
convey  signals  to  the  opposite  coast.  To  the  west  of 
Craig  Phadric  is  a  high  gravelly  ridge  called  Tor-a- 
Bhean,  supposed  to  contain  the  tomb  of  Donald  Bane, 
a  chieftain  of  the  Hebrides,  who,  in  1187,  at  the  head 
of  a  body  of  islanders,  encountered  Duncan  Macintosh, 
son  of  the  governor  of  Inverness  Castle,  when  a  severe 
conflict  ensued,  in  which  both  were  killed.  Near  the 
base  of  this  ridge,  on  the  shore  of  the  Caledonian  canal, 
a  massive  silver  chain  of  thirty-three  double  circular 
links  was  found  in  1S08,  weighing  104  ounces,  and 
thought  to  have  been  worn  by  that  island  chief  as  an 
ensign  of  office;  it  is  now  in  the  museum  of  the  Society 
of  Antiquaries,  Edinburgh.  On  the  margin  of  Loch 
Dochfour  are  the  remains  of  the  church  of  Bona ;  and 
between  Loch  Dochfour  and  Loch  Ness  is  a  quadrilateral 
inclosure,  rounded  at  the  angles,  supposed  to  have  been 
a  Roman  camp,  and  on  the  highest  point  of  which  are 
the  ruins  of  a  fort  commanding  the  fords  across  the 
578 


river  Ness.  In  the  same  vicinity  are  numerous  sepul- 
chral tumuli.  The  eastern  portion  of  the  parish  con- 
tains part  of  the  memorable  field  on  which  the  battle  of 
Culloden  was  fought ;  and  bordering  on  the  parish  of 
Croy  are  many  cairns,  and  various  circles  of  stones, 
supposed  to  be  Druidical.  Near  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Ness  is  Cairn  Arc,  a  large  pile  of  stones,  in  the  Moray 
Frith  ;  and  in  Beauly  Frith  are  several  similar  cairns, 
which  are  corroborative  of  the  opinion,  not  unsustained 
by  facts,  that  the  sea  has  made  considerable  encroach- 
ments on  this  part  of  the  coast.  The  late  Duke  of 
Sussex  bore  the  inferior  title  of  Earl  of  Inverness  ;  and 
the  place  at  present  gives  the  title  of  Duchess  to  the 
widow  of  his  royal  highness. 

INVERNESS-SHIRE,  an  extensive  county,  in  the 
north  of  Scotland,  bounded  on  the  north  by  Ross-shire 
and  the  Moray  Frith  ;  on  the  east,  by  the  counties  of 
Nairn,  Elgin,  Banff,  and  Aberdeen  ;  on  the  south,  by 
Perth-shire  and  the  county  of  Argyll ;  and  on  the  west, 
by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It  lies  between  56°  54'  and 
57°  50'  (N.  Lat.)  and  4°  20'  10"  and  6°  35'  (W.  Lon.), 
and  is  about  ninety  miles  in  length,  and  nearly  eighty  in 
extreme  breadth;  comprising  an  area  of  7200  square 
miles,  or  4,60S,000  acres,  exclusive  of  the  several 
islands  attached  to  it;  and  containing  19,779  houses, 
of  which  19,194  are  inhabited;  and  a  population  of 
97,799,  of  whom  45,538  are  males,  and  52,261  females. 
This  county,  which  takes  its  name  from  its  chief  town, 
originally  formed  the  western  portion  of  the  ancient 
province  of  Moray,  and,  prior  to  the  union  of  the  two 
kingdoms  under  Kenneth  II.,  was  inhabited  by  the 
Picts,  who  are  said  to  have  had  frequent  battles  with 
the  Danes,  by  whom  their  territories  were  invaded. 
The  town  of  Inverness  is  thought  to  have  been  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Pictish  kings,  and  is  so  identified  with  the 
historical  events  of  the  county  as  to  render  any  notice 
of  them  here  superfluous.  Prior  to  the  Reformation, 
the  county  was  part  of  the  diocese  of  Moray  ;  since  that 
event  it  has  been  included  in  the  synods  of  Moray,  Ross, 
and  Glenelg,  containing  several  presbyteries,  and  about 
forty-five  parishes.  For  civil  purposes,  it  is  under  the 
superintendence  of  four  sheriffs- substitute,  appointed  by 
the  sheriff,  and  who  hold  their  courts  respectively  at 
Inverness,  Fort-William,  Skye,  and  Long  Island.  The 
county  contains  the  villages  of  Fort-George,  Fort-Augus- 
tus, Portree,  Grantown,  Campbelton,  Kingussie,  Beauly, 
and  several  others.  Under  the  act  of  the  2nd  and  3rd 
of  William  IV.,  it  returns  one  member  to  the  imperial 
parliament. 

The  surface  is  strikingly  diversified  by  wild  and 
lofty  mountains  interspersed  with  deep  and  narrow 
glens,  and  by  numerous  ridges  of  hills  inclosing  valleys 
of  various  width  and  appearance.  The  main  land  is 
divided  into  two  nearly  equal  parts  by  the  vale  of  Glen- 
more,  which  intersects  it  throughout  in  a  direction  from 
north-east  to  south-west,  reaching  from  the  Moray 
Frith  to  Loch  Eil,  and  containing  a  succession  of  lakes, 
by  the  connecting  of  which  the  Great  Caledonian  canal 
has  been  formed.  On  both  sides  of  this  valley  are  nu- 
merous straths,  separated  by  mountainous  ridges,  and 
all  watered  by  streams  descending  from  the  heights. 
The  country  on  the  west  of  Glenmore,  between  it  and 
the  Atlantic,  is  the  more  extensive  and  mountainous, 
constituting  the  Highland  district ;  that  on  the  east  is 
the  Lowland  district,  and,  though  in  many  parts  of  wild 


I  N  V  E 


I  N  V  E 


aspect,  is  in  a  better  state  of  cultivation.  The  coast  is 
indented  with  a  variety  of  inlets  from  the  sea,  forming 
salt-water  lakes,  of  'which  several,  on  the  south-west, 
separate  it  from  the  county  of  Argyll  ;  and  in  addition 
to  the  districts  of  Badenoch,  Lochaber,  Glenelg,  Glen- 
garry, Arisaig,  Moydart,  and  Stratbglass,  into  which 
the  main  land  is  naturally  divided,  the  county  contains 
the  Isle  of  Skye,  part  of  Lewis,  North  and  South  Uist, 
Benbecula,  Barra,  Eigg,  Eriskay,  Bernera,  and  others  of 
the.  Hebrides.  The  principal  mountains  are,  Ben-Nevis, 
which  has  an  elevation  of  4370  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea  ;  Mealfourvonie,  which  rises  to  the  height  of 
3600  feet ;  Scarsough,  3412  feet ;  and  Craig  Phadric, 
which  is  above  400  feet  in  height. 

The  chief  rivers  are  the  Ness  and  the  Spey.  The  Ness 
issues  from  Loch  Ness,  in  the  valley  of  Glenmore,  and, 
taking  a  north-eastern  course  for  a  few  miles,  falls  into 
the  Moray  Frith,  forming  the  harbour  of  Inverness,  to 
■which  town  it  gives  its  name.  The  river  Spey  has  its 
source  in  Loch  Spey,  in  the  district  of  Badenoch;  and, 
flowing  eastward  with  great  rapidity,  and  receiving 
numerous  tributary  streams  in  a  winding  course  of  120 
miles  through  the  strath  to  which  it  gives  name,  it 
passes  the  village  of  Rothes,  and,  diverting  its  course 
to  the  north,  falls  into  the  Moray  Frith  at  Garmouth. 
Of  the  smaller  rivers,  the  Beauly,  the  Foyers,  and  the 
Garry  alone  are  deserving  of  any  particular  description. 
The  Beauly  has  its  source  in  the  confluence  of  the  rivu- 
lets Farrar,  Carrick,  and  Glass,  which  give  their  names 
to  the  straths  through  which  they  flow  :  after  a  course 
of  about  eight  miles,  between  rocky  and  precipitous 
banks,  in  which  it  makes  some  beautiful  falls,  whereof 
the  chief  is  at  Kilmorack,  it  falls  into  Beauly  Frith. 
The  Foyers  rises  in  the  mountainous  district  of  Bade- 
noch, and,  after  a  course  often  miles  through  a  tract  of 
country  abounding  in  romantic  scener)r,  joins  Loch 
Ness.  In  its  progress  it  makes  some  highly-picturesque 
cascades.  At  one  part,  its  waters  form  three  successive 
descents  together  from  a  height  of  above  200  feet  into 
a  pool  beneath,  beyond  which,  the  stream,  flowing 
through  a  narrow  rocky  channel,  falls  from  an  elevation 
of  more  than  212  feet  in  one  unbroken  sheet,  which, 
after  heavy  rains,  has  an  impressive  grandeur  of  effect. 
The  river  Garry  has  its  source  in  a  small  lake  of  that 
name,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  county,  and,  passing 
through  the  strath  of  Glengarry,  runs  into  Loch  Oich. 
The  principal  rivers,  and  also  their  tributaries,  abound 
with  salmon.  The  chief  lakes  are,  Loch  Ness,  Loch 
Lochy,  Loch  Oich,  and  Loch  Eil,  which  are  situated  in 
the  valley  of  Glenmore,  and  connected  with  each  other 
by  the  Caledonian  canal ;  Lochs  Laggan,  Treag,  and 
Ericht,  in  the  south ;  Lochs  Affarie,  Benevian,  Clunie, 
and  some  others,  in  the  north ;  and  Lochs  Quoich, 
Arkaig,  and  Shiel,  in  the  western  part  of  the  county. 
The  salt-water  lakes,  or  inlets  from  the  sea  in  the  main- 
land, are,  Lochs  Moidart,  Morir,  Nevish,  Hourn,  and 
Beauly. 

Of  the  lands,  not  more  than  one-twelfth  part  is  un- 
der cultivation,  the  remainder  being  either  covered  with 
heath,  or  in  mountain  pasture.  The  soil  on  the  level 
grounds  near  the  sea  is  chiefly  clay  alternated  with 
loam,  and  in  some  parts  a  fine  rich  black  mould.  In 
some  of  the  straths,  also,  between  the  mountain  ridges, 
the  soil  is  extremely  fertile,  except  in  those  parts  where, 
from  the  rapidity  of  the  mountain  streams,  beds  of  gra- 
579 


vel  accumulate.  The  arable  lands  are  in  a  good  state  of 
cultivation,  producing  excellent  crops  of  wheat,  barley, 
and  oats ;  great  quantities  of  potatoes  are  likewise 
raised.  The  system  of  agriculture  has  been  much  im- 
proved, and  considerable  tracts  of  waste  have  been 
drained  and  brought  into  cultivation  ;  the  farm  houses 
and  offices,  also,  are  generally  substantial  and  well 
arranged  ;  but  the  cottages  of  the  labourers  are  very 
indifferent.  Many  of  the  farms  are  of  course  in  pas- 
ture ;  and  the  breed  of  cattle  and  sheep  has  of  late  been 
an  object  of  considerable  attention.  The  cattle,  of 
which  the  stock  may  be  averaged  at  50,000,  are  prin- 
cipally of  the  Skye  or  Kyloe  breed  :  the  sheep,  of  which 
from  120,000  to  130,000  are  pastured  on  the  different 
farms,  are  of  the  Linton  and  Cheviot  breeds.  The 
horses,  previously  to  the  increase  of  the  sheep-pas- 
tures, were  of  the  Old  Highland  breed  ;  but  the  number 
has  been  greatly  reduced,  and  those  which  are  now 
reared,  chiefly  for  purposes  of  husbandry,  are  of  various 
kinds,  according  to  the  choice  of  the  different  proprie- 
tors, who  breed  them  only  for  their  own  use.  Consi- 
derable numbers  of  swine  have  been  lately  reared  in 
several  parts,  the  Highlanders  having  overcome,  in  a 
great  measure,  their  wonted  prejudices  against  that  kind 
of  food  ;  and  the  stock  has  been  improved  by  the  intro- 
duction of  the  Chinese  breed. 

The  whole  county  appears  to  have  been  at  a  very 
remote  period  covered  with  woods  ;  and  in  most  of  the 
mosses,  of  which  some  are  very  extensive,  are  found 
trunks  of  trees.  In  Glenmore  and  Strathspey  are  not 
less  than  15,000  acres  of  natural  fir,  exclusive  of  70,000 
acres  of  modern  plantations  of  firs  and  larch;  and  in 
other  parts  of  the  county  are  most  extensive  and  flou- 
rishing plantations  of  fir,  larch,  beech,  plane,  and  oak, 
of  which  last  there  are  some  carefully-preserved  woods 
at  Lochiel  and  Fasfern.  The  substrata  are  princi- 
pally limestone,  freestone,  and  granite  :  the  limestone 
abounds  in  many  places,  yet,  from  the  scarcity  of  fuel, 
little  of  it  is  burnt  into  lime,  which  for  agricultural  pur- 
poses is  chiefly  imported.  Slate  of  durable  texture  is 
largely  quarried,  and  great  quantities  are  annually  ship- 
ped off ;  a  quarry  of  grey  slate  was  opened  at  Aultmore, 
but  of  too  porous  a  texture  for  roofing.  Marble  of 
every  variety  of  colour,  and  of  excellent  quality,  is  found 
in  Ben-Nevis  and  in  most  of  the  islands  ;  and  common 
granite,  of  which  the  hills  principally  consist,  is  exten- 
sively quarried.  A  dark- coloured  granite  occurs  in  many 
places,  in  large  blocks  with  scarcely  any  fissures,  and  is 
much  esteemed  for  ornamental  buildings  ;  and  a  varie- 
gated kind  of  granite,  with  black,  white,  and  red  spots, 
which  sparkle  in  the  sun,  is  found  in  Badenoch.  Free- 
stone of  a  reddish  colour,  of  compact  texture,  and  sus- 
septible  of  a  high  degree  of  polish,  is  met  with  on  the 
lands  of  Lovatt;  but  no  sandstone  occurs  in  the  county. 
There  are  some  indications  of  coal ;  but  the  only  mine- 
ral worked  is  lead-ore,  of  which  there  are  mines  in  Ben- 
Nevis,  at  Inverskaddel,  near  Loch  Arkaig,  Glengarry, 
and  other  places.  Black-lead,  of  good  quality  for  pen- 
cils, is  also  found,  but  is  not  wrought  :  there  is  clay 
for  bricks  and  tiles  along  the  coast.  The  seats  are, 
Castle-Grant,  Dunvegan,  Castle-Mc  Leod,  Castle-Chis- 
holme,  Fasfern,  Lochiel,  Beaufort,  Belladrum,  Rothie- 
murehus,  Kinrara,  Farraline,  Belville,  Glengarry,  Dal- 
chully,  and  others. 

The  principal  manufactures  are  those  of  hemp,  thread 

4  E  2 


I  N  V  E 


INVE 


of  various  colours,  kelp,  bricks,  and  tiles  ;  and  some 
branches  of  the  woollen  manufacture,  chiefly  for  domes- 
tic use,  and  confined  to  private  families.  There  are 
several  bleaching  and  print  fields,  tanneries,  breweries, 
and  distilleries  ;  and  at  the  villages  on  the  coast,  a  con- 
siderable trade  is  carried  on  in  the  exportation  of  cattle, 
sheep,  wool,  timber,  and  slates,  and  in  the  importation 
of  coal,  lime,  flour,  oatmeal,  groceries,  and  other  arti- 
cles for  home  consumption.  There  are  valuable  salmon- 
fisheries  on  the  rivers ;  the  herring-fisheries,  also,  em- 
ploy a  considerable  number  of  the  inhabitants  on  the 
western  coast.  Facility  of  communication  is  afforded 
by  several  good  roads  which  have  been  formed  through- 
out the  interior  ;  and  the  Great  Caledonian  canal,  which 
intersects  the  county  from  north-cast  to  south-west, 
passing  through  the  valley  of  Glenmore  for  more  than 
sixty  miles,  and  connecting  the  German  Ocean  with  the 
Atlantic,  affords  means  of  inland  navigation  for  ships  of 
almost  any  burthen,  and  facility  for  the  conveyance  of 
produce  of  all  kinds.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the 
county  is  £182,064,  of  which  £161,499  are  returned  for 
lands,  £17,S94  for  houses,  £2596  for  fisheries,  and  £75 
for  quarries. 

Among  the  various  remains  of  antiquity  are  the 
ruins  of  ancient  fortresses  consisting  of  stones  of  enor- 
mous size,  placed  together  without  cement  of  any  kind  ; 
they  are  generally  of  circular  or  elliptical  form,  contain- 
ing, between  two  concentric  walls,  a  considerable  inter- 
val supposed  to  have  been  used  for  keeping  military  and 
other  stores.  The  area  within  the  inner  wall,  which 
alone  was  pierced  with  windows,  is  thought  to  have 
been  occupied  by  the  garrison.  Of  these  fortresses  the 
three  most  perfect  are  at  Glenelg,  Castle- Spynie,  in  the 
district  of  Aird,  and  Dun-da-law,  in  Badenoch.  On  the 
summit  of  Craig-Phadic  are  the  remains  of  a  vitrified 
fort  of  elliptical  form,  of  which  the  longer  diameter  is 
220  feet,  and  the  shorter  little  more  than  half  that 
length ;  and  near  Fort-William  are  the  remains  of  a 
similar  fortress,  called  Dunghairdghall.  Upon  the  east 
bank  of  the  river  Lochy  are  the  remains  of  Inverlochy 
Castle,  a  square  structure  with  circular  towers  at  the 
angles,  surrounded  by  a  ditch  inclosing  an  area  of  7000 
square  yards.  On  the  summit  of  a  precipitous  rock 
which  divides  the  channel  of  the  Lochy,  are  the  ruins  of 
Tor  Castle  ;  and  on  a  projecting  rock  on  the  west  side 
of  Loch  Ness,  are  the  remains  of  Urquhart  Castle,  which 
was  taken  in  1303,  by  Edward  I.  of  Englaud,  who, 
exasperated  at  the  obstinate  and  protracted  defence,  put 
the  governor  and  the  whole  of  the  garrison  to  the 
sword.  The  roads  of  Glenroy,  consisting  of  three  pa- 
rallel lines  on  one  side  of  the  river,  opposite  to  three 
similar  lines  on  the  other,  are  most  probably  natural, 
though  some  suppose  them  to  have  been  made  for  the 
purpose  of  hunting.  There  are  several  Druidical  re- 
mains ;  and  in  the  Frith  of  Beauly  are  some  ancient 
cairns,  of  which  two,  larger  than  the  rest,  rise  above  the 
surface  of  the  water,  and  have  been  found  to  contain 
beams  of  timber,  and  human  bones. 

INVERNOCHTIE,    county    of    Aberdeen.  — See 
Strathdon. 

1NVERTIEL,  or  Westbridge,  lately  a  quoad  sacra 
parish,  partly  in  the  parish  of  Abbotshall,  and  partly 
in  that  of  Kinghorn,  district  of  Kirkcaldy,  county 
of  Fife,  1  mile  (S.  W.  by  S.)  from  Kirkcaldy;  con- 
taining 1465  inhabitants.  This  district  is  estimated  to 
580 


comprise  1000  acres,  of  which  about  700  are  in  tillage, 
200  in  pasture,  and  the  remainder  under  plantation. 
The  substratum  consists  chiefly  of  brown  sandstone  of 
the  coal  formation  ;  and  coal  was  for  some  time  wrought, 
but  no  mines  are  at  present  in  operation.  About  700 
persons  are  employed  in  hand-loom  weaving  ;  and  there 
is  a  flax-spinning  mill,  in  which  100  hands  are  engaged. 
The  Frith  of  Forth  lies  on  the  south  of  the  parish,  and 
the  public  road  between  Edinburgh  and  Dundee  runs 
close  by  the  village.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcaldy  and 
synod  of  Fife,  and  the  patronage  is  vested  in  the  heads 
of  families  being  communicants :  the  stipend  of  the 
minister  partly  arises  from  seat-rents  and  collections. 
The  church,  a  plain  structure,  erected  in  1836-7,  by 
subscription,  aided  by  a  grant  of  £272  from  the  Church- 
Extension  fund,  contains  726  sittings,  whereof  a  portion 
are  free:  its  erection  removed,  in  a  considerable  mea- 
sure, the  inconvenience  felt  in  the  parish  of  Kinghorn 
from  want  of  accommodation  and  pastoral  attendance. 
The  members  of  the  Free  Church  bave  now  possession 
of  it.  Sir  Michael  Scott,  a  celebrated  statesman  and 
philosopher  of  the  13th  century,  one  of  the  most  learned 
men  of  his  age,  and  called  by  the  people  of  his  times 
"the  Wizard,"  was  born,  and  resided,  at  Balwearie,  in 
this  district :  he  was  knighted  by  Alexander  II.,  and 
died  in  1296. 

INVERURY,  a  royal 
burgh,  and  a  parish,  in  the 
^  district  of  Garioch,  county 
3  of  Aberdeen,  l6miles  (N.W.) 
M?  fr°m  Aberdeen,  and  137  (N. 
i<s4b  n.  E.)  from  Edinburgh  ;  con- 
taining 2020  inhabitants,  of 
whom  1619  are  in  the  burgh. 
This  place,  which  derives  its 
name  from  its  situation  at 
the  confluence  of  the  river 
Ury  with  the  Don,  is  of  re- 
mote antiquity,  and,  as  part 
of  the  lordship  of  Garioch,  was  granted  by  William  the 
Lion  to  his  brother,  David,  Earl  of  Huntingdon.  Of 
the  baronial  castle  of  the  earl,  which  occupied  a  site 
near  the  Bass,  and  which  appears  to  have  been  the  first 
stronghold  erected  in  the.  county,  there  are  no  remains; 
but  a  charter  of  the  date  of  117S  is  still  extant,  by 
which  the  earl  granted  the  church  of  Inverury,  with 
several  others,  to  the  abbey  of  Lindorcs.  During  the 
wars  with  England  in  the  reign  of  Edward  I.,  Robert 
Bruce,  who  had  removed  to  this  place  from  Sliach, 
in  Strathbogie,  in  a  state  of  ill  health,  was  attacked  by 
the  English  army  under  Cumyn,  over  whom  he  obtained 
a  signal  victory,  in  acknowledgment  of  which  he  erected 
the  town  of  Inverury  into  a  royal  burgh.  In  1745,  a 
battle  occurred  here  between  the  forces  of  the  Pretender 
and  the  Macleods,  the  latter  of  whom  Lord  Loudon  had 
sent  from  the  north,  with  a  body  of  men,  to  relieve  the 
city  of  Aberdeen,  at  that  time  in  the  possession  of  the 
rebels,  who  had  imposed  upon  the  inhabitants  a  tribute 
of  £1000.  The  Macleods,  on  their  arrival  at  this  place, 
were  attacked  by  Lord  Lewis  Gordon,  who,  with  a  force 
of  1200  men,  crossing  the  river  Ury,  surprised  and 
defeated  them  :  there  was,  however,  a  sharp  encounter, 
in  which  many  were  killed  and  taken  prisoners  on  both 
sides. 


Burz.h  Seal. 


I  N  V  E 


I  O  N  A 


The  town  consists  of  irregularly-built  and  detached 
houses,  scattered  along  the  turnpike-road  from  Huntly 
to  Aberdeen.  From  the  difficulty  of  access  previously 
to  the  erection  of  the  bridge  over  the  Don,  which  was 
built  at  a  cost  of  £'2000,  in  1 791  >  the  place  was  not 
much  more  than  an  obscure  village,  and  had  neither  any 
manufacture  nor  trade.  Upon  that  event,  however,  it 
became  of  some  little  importance.  The  opening  of  the 
Aberdeen  and  Invcrury  canal,  which  was  completed  in 
1807,  at  a  cost  of  £44,000,  gave  an  additional  impulse 
to  its  trade ;  and  the  subsequent  erection  of  bridges 
over  the  river  Ury  has  supplied  all  that  was  wanting  to 
its  prosperity.  Considerable  improvements  have  since 
taken  place  in  the  town,  which  is  now  lighted  with  gas. 
The  manufacture  of  linen  is  pursued  to  some  extent, 
affording  employment  to  more  than  sixty  of  the  inha- 
bitants. Various  handicraft  trades,  also,  are  carried  on 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  adjacent  district ;  and 
there  are  several  shops  well  supplied  v  ith  goods  of  every 
kind.  The  increase  of  trade  since  the  completion  of  the 
canal  has  been  very  great;  and  large  quantities  of  grain, 
lime,  coal,  salt,  and  also  other  produce,  are  now  sent 
to,  or  received  from,  Port-Elphinstone,  where  the  canal 
terminates,  near  the  bridge  over  the  Don,  on  the  oppo- 
site bank  of  the  river,  in  the  parish  of  Kintore.  The 
post-office  has  a  tolerable  delivery.  Branches  of  the 
Aberdeen,  the  Town  and  County,  and  the  North  of 
Scotland,  banks,  have  recently  been  established ;  and 
facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  good  roads, 
and  by  the  canal,  on  which  an  iron  boat  for  passengers 
and  light  goods  plies  daily  to  Aberdeen.  Fairs  for 
cattle,  sheep,  horses,  and  grain  are  held  monthly,  those 
at  Whitsuntide  and  Martinmas  being  likewise  for  hiring 
servants;  also  every  alternate  Tuesday  from  November  to 
March.  The  town,  after  the  loss  of  its  original  charter, 
was  created  a  royal  burgh  by  charter  of  novodamus 
by  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  in  1558:  the  government  is 
vested  in  a  provost,  three  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a 
treasurer,  and  four  councillors,  chosen  under  the  regu- 
lations of  the  Municipal  Reform  act.  There  are  no 
incorporated  trades  ;  but  the  guild  burgesses  have  an 
exclusive  privilege  of  trading,  and  are  exempt  from  the 
payment  of  custom  dues.  The  magistrates  have  juris- 
diction over  the  whole  of  the  royalty,  and  hold  courts, 
in  civil  actions  to  an  unlimited  amount,  and  in  criminal 
cases  for  the  trial  of  petty  delinquencies.  The  burgh 
is  associated  with  those  of  Banff,  Cullen,  Elgin, 
Kintore,  and  Peterhead,  in  returning  a  member  to  the 
imperial  parliament ;  the  number  of  qualified  voters  is 
ninety-four. 

The  parish,  which  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the 
river  Don,  and  on  the  north  and  east  by  the  Ury,  is 
about  four  miles  in  extreme  length  and  two  miles  in 
breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  5100  acres,  of  which 
3000  are  arable,  1000  woodland  and  plantations,  and 
the  remainder  moorland  pasture  and  waste.  The  sur- 
face, though  level  near  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  rises 
gradually  towards  the  west,  terminating  in  the  three 
nearly  equidistant  hills  of  Manar  to  the  south,  Knock- 
inglew  in  the  centre,  and  Drimmies  to  the  north,  be- 
tween which  are  some  fine  tracts  of  fertile  vale.  The 
soil  on  the  lower  grounds  is  a  rich  light  mould,  super- 
incumbent upon  sand,  but  on  the  higher  grounds  of  less 
fertility ;  the  chief  crops  are  oats  and  barley,  with 
potatoes  and  turnips,  and  the  usual  grasses.  The  sys- 
581 


tem  of  husbandry  is  improved,  and  the  rotation  of  crops 
is  duly  observed ;  lime  and  bone-dust,  for  which  the 
canal  affords  facility  of  conveyance,  are  used  as  manure  ; 
and  some  of  the  unprofitable  land  has  been  brought 
into  cultivation.  The  Aberdeenshire  breed  of  cattle  is 
that  most  prevalent ;  but  on  some  farms,  a  few  of  the 
short-horned,  &c.,  arc  reared.  There  are  no  regular  flocks 
of  sheep  pastured,  though  a  few  of  the  English  breed 
are  kept,  for  domestic  use,  and  chiefly  for  their  wool. 
The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is  £6395.  The 
plantations  are  well  attended  to,  and  are  generally  in 
a  thriving  state  :  there  are  considerable  remains  of 
ancient  wood.  The  rocks  are  chiefly  of  granite.  Manar 
House  is  a  substantial  modern  mansion,  beautifully 
situated  on  the  southern  acclivity  of  Manar  hill,  com- 
manding a  fine  view  of  the  river  Don,  and  surrounded 
with  plantations. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Garioch  and  synod  of 
Aberdeen.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £25".  11.,  with  a 
manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £15  per  annum;  patron, 
the  Earl  of  Kintore.  The  old  church,  built  in  1775, 
contained  only  400  sittings,  a  number  very  inadequate 
to  the  increased  population  ;  and,  consequently,  a  new 
church,  containing  1330  sittings,  has  been  erected  by 
the  heritors  and  the  magistrates  of  the  burgh.  The 
present  structure  is  of  beautiful  granite,  in  the  later 
English  style  of  architecture.  The  burial-ground  of  the 
parish  lies  near  the  river  Don.  There  are  places  of 
worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  Independents, 
and  Wesleyans  ;  and  an  episcopal  chapel  has  recently 
been  built.  A  Roman  Catholic  seminary,  formerly  at 
Aquhorties,  in  this  parish,  has  been  removed  to  Blairs, 
in  the  parish  of  Maryculter,  county  of  Kincardine  ;  and 
the  ancient  building,  beautifully  situated,  is  at  present 
a  farm  house.  The  parochial  school  is  attended  by 
about  ninety  children  ;  the  master  has  a  salary  of  £30, 
with  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  fees  average  £35 
annually.  The  chief  monuments  of  antiquity  are  two 
tumuli,  one  of  which,  called  the  Bass,  and  situated  at 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  town,  is  in  the  form  of  a 
truncated  cone,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  a  seat 
for  the  administration  of  justice  ;  the  other,  called  the 
Conyng  hillock,  is  traditionally  said  to  have  been  raised 
over  the  remains  of  one  of  the  Pictish  kings.  There  is 
also  a  very  complete  Druidical  temple.  Invcrury  gives 
the  title'of  Baron  to  the  Earl  of  Kintore. 

IONA,  or  Icolmkill,  an  island  of  the  Hebrides, 
and  also  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the  parish  of  Kil- 
finichen,  district  of  Mull,  county  of  Argyll  ;  con- 
taining 10S4  inhabitants,  of  whom  460  are  on  the 
island.  This  place,  which  is  of  remote  antiquity,  is 
situated  to  the  south-west  of  the  Isle  of  Mull,  in  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  ;  and,  at  a  very  early  period,  was  the 
principal  seat  of  the  Druidical  worship,  from  which  cir- 
cumstance it  obtained  the  appellation  of  Inish-Druinish, 
or  the  "  Island  of  Druids."  It  was  subsequently  occu- 
pied by  the  ancient  Culdees,  for  whom,  it  is  recorded, 
Fergus  II.  erected  a  monastery  and  a  stately  church, 
which  became  the  burying-place  of  many  of  his  suc- 
cessors, kings  of  Scotland.  Its  namelona,  signifying,  in 
the  Gaelic  language,  the  "  Island  of  Waves,"  appears  to 
have  been  derived  from  the  violent  agitations  of  the 
narrow  sound  by  which  it  is  separated  from  Mull :  that 
of  Icolmkill,  by  which  it  is  not  uncommonly  known, 


IO  N  A 

arose  from  the  foundation  of  a  religious  establishment 
by  St.  Columba,  about  the  middle  of  the  sixth  century. 
St.  Columba,  emigrating  from  Ireland,  for  the  conver- 
sion of  the  natives  of  the  Hebrides  to  the  Christian 
faith,  landed  here,  with  twelve  of  his  companions,  in 
the  year  563,  and,  having  converted  many  of  the 
northern  Plots  to  Christianity,  received  from  their  king 
a  grant  of  the  island,  on  which  he  founded  a  monas- 
tery for  canons  regular  of  the  order  of  St.  Augustine, 
ihis  monastery,  which  was  amply  endowed,  flourished 
under  the  superintendence  of  its  founder,  and  acquired 
such  reputation  for  sanctity  and  learning  as  to  obtain 
tor  the  isle  the  appellation  of  the  Holy  Island,  and  to 
render  it  the  resort  of  pious  and  learned  men  from 
Ireland,  Norway,  and  all  parts  of  Scotland,  for  which 
it  was  the  principal  school  of  theology  and  philosophy. 

St.  Columba  presided  over  the"  monastery  he  had 
founded  till  his  death  in  597,  at  which  time  his  zeal  for 
the  propagation  of  Christianity  had  prompted  him  to 
found,  in  various  parts  of  Britain,  100  monasteries  and 
365  churches,  and  to  ordain  not  less  than  3000  priests. 
The  island  hence  became  the  grand  centre  from  which 
the  truths  of  the  Christian  religion,  and  the  benefits  of 
sound  learning,  were  diffused  to  every  portion  of  the 
kingdom;  and  after  the  death  of  St.  Columba,  the 
monastery  continued  to  flourish  under  his  successors, 
and  was  held  in  such  veneration,  that  the  island  was 
regarded  as  consecrated  ground,  and  became  the  burying- 
place  of  many  of  the  kings  of  Ireland  and  Norway. 
From  this  monastery,  which  was  independent  of  the 
papal  jurisdiction,  and  in  which,  under  St.  Columba 
and  his  successors,  the  principles  and  discipline  of  the 
Culdees  were  retained,  Oswald,  king  of  Northumbria,  in 
632,  obtained  a  bishop  to  teach  his  subjects  the  prin- 
ciples of  Christianity  ;  and  in  765,  Neil  Frasaeh,  King 
of  Ireland,  abdicated  the  sovereignty,  and  retired  to  this 
island,  where  he  died.  In  777,  Asglal,  son  of  the  King 
of  Connaught,  became  a  monk  of  Iona,  which  was  still, 
and  continued  for  many  years,  the  principal  university 
of  Britain,  to  which  the  young  princes  of  Scotland, 
Northumbria,  and  other  kingdoms,  were  sent  to  receive 
their  education.  The  monastery  subsequently  became 
subject  to  the  predatory  incursions  of  the  northern 
pirates,  by  whom  it  was  frequently  plundered  and  laid 
waste;  and  in  797,  it  was  burnt  by  the  Danes,  who, 
again,  in  801,  massacred  nearly  eighty  of  the  monks, 
and  compelled  the  abbot  and  the  rest  to  seek  safety  by 
flight.  On  its  restoration  after  the  retreat  of  the  Danes, 
the  monastery  was  refounded  for  monks  of  the  Cluniac 
order,  under  whose  superintendence  it  subsisted  till  the 
dissolution ;  its  revenues  were  then  appropriated  to  the 
see  of  Argyll,  and,  after  the  abolition  of  episcopacy, 
became  the  property  of  the  dukes. 

Of  the  ancient  buildings  connected  with  the  monas- 
tery, the  principal  remains  are  those  of  the  abbey 
church,  which  was  also  the  cathedral  of  the  bishops  of 
the  Isles,  and,  with  its  tower,  is  almost  entire.  It  is  a 
cruciform  structure  of  red  granite,  chiefly  in  the  Norman 
style,  160  feet  in  length,  seventy  feet  across  the  tran- 
septs, and  twenty-four  feet  in  mean  breadth,  with  a 
tower  rising  from  the  centre  to  the  height  of  seventy 
feet.  The  choir,  which  is  sixty  feet  in  length,  is  divided 
from  the  nave  by  massive  circular  columns,  supporting 
the  tower,  and  of  which  the  capitals  are  sculptured  with 
grotesque  figures,  displaying  scriptural  allusions  and 
5S2 


IONA 

other  devices.  The  nave  and  choir  are  separated  from 
the  aisles  by  ranges  of  columns  of  similar  form,  and 
obtusely-pointed  arches,  sustaining  the  roof;  and  are 
lighted  by  a  lower  tier  of  large  windows  of  various 
character  and  inelegant  design,  and  by  a  range  of 
clerestory  windows,  of  which  some  are  Norman,  and 
others  headed  in  trefoil.  The  high  altar,  of  marble 
brought  from  the  Isle  of  Skye,  unfortunately  acquired 
the  reputation  of  possessing  a  charm  against  shipwreck, 
and  has  totally  disappeared  by  fragments.  Around  the 
cathedral  are  various  ruins  of  walls,  supposed  to  have 
been  chapels,  and  parts  of  the  monastic  buildings  :  four 
of  the  arches  of  the  cloister  are  still  remaining,  and 
portions  of  the  bishop's  palace,  the  hall,  and  the  re- 
fectory. On  the  south  side  of  the  cathedral  are  the 
remains  of  St.  Oran's  chapel,  a  rude  edifice  sixty  feet 
in  length,  and  twenty-two  feet  broad,  in  a  roofless  state, 
but  otherwise  in  good  preservation  :  the  sculpture  of 
the  doorway,  which  is  a  Norman  arch,  with  chevron 
mouldings,  is  especially  worthy  of  attention.  It  con- 
tains various  tombs  of  different  periods,  among  which 
is  that  of  St.  Oran,  the  disciple  of  St.  Columba,  a  hand- 
some monument,  apparently  of  much  more  recent  date 
than  the  chapel.  On  the  north  of  this  chapel  are  the 
ruins  of  the  Nunnery,  or  rather  the  chapel  of  the  Nun- 
nery, a  structure  in  the  Norman  style,  nearly  of  the 
same  dimensions  as  the  chapel  of  St.  Oran  ;  part  of  the 
vaulted  roof  is  still  remaining,  and  there  are  some  very 
slender  traces  of  the  conventual  buildings.  The  tomb- 
stone of  the  Princess  Anna,  lady  abbess,  is  yet  to  be 
seen;  it  bears  the  date  1543,  and  has  a  figure  of  the 
abbess,  in  the  attitude  of  prayer  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  who 
has  an  infant  in  her  arms,  and  a  mitre  on  her  head. 

To  the  south  of  St.  Oran's  chapel  is  the  inclosure 
called  "  Relig-Owran,"  or  "the  burying-place  of  Oran," 
in  which  are  a  vast  number  of  tombs,  overgrown  with 
grass  and  weeds,  and  mostly  so  defaced  as  to  render  the 
inscriptions  on  them  altogether  illegible.  In  this  ceme- 
tery it  is  said  that  one  of  the  kings  of  France,  four 
kings  of  Ireland,  eight  kings  of  Norway,  and  forty-eight 
kings  of  Scotland,  are  interred,  the  last  commencing 
with  Fergus  II.  and  ending  with  Macbeth,  whose  suc- 
cessor, Malcolm  Canmore,  removed  the  place  of  royal 
sepulture  to  Dunfermline.  The  precincts  of  the  ceme- 
tery, which  contained  also  the  tombs  of  the  lords  of  the 
Isles,  and  of  the  most  distinguished  families,  had  the 
privilege  of  sanctuary ;  and  in  various  parts  of  the 
island  were  not  less  than  360  crosses  of  stone,  of  which 
four  only  are  now  left.  At  the  time  of  the  Reforma- 
tion, the  synod  of  Argyll  ordered  sixty  of  these  crosses 
to  be  thrown  into  the  sea ;  and  the  remainder  appear  to 
have  been  either  wantonly  destroyed,  or  suffered  to  fall 
from  neglect.  Of  those  that  remain,  two  are  in  a  per- 
fect state,  of  which  one  is  sculptured  with  figures  of 
Adam  and  Eve,  standing  by  the  forbidden  tree  ;  the 
third  has  only  ten  feet  of  the  shaft,  and  of  the  fourth 
the  foot  only  is  left,  imbedded  in  a  mound  of  earth.  In 
order  to  preserve  all  these  venerable  remains  from  fur- 
ther injury,  they  have  been  inclosed  with  walls  by  the 
Duke  of  Argyll,  and  placed  under  the  vigilant  superin- 
tendence of  a  keeper. 

The  island  is  about  three  miles  in  extreme  length, 
and  a  mile  and  a  half  in  average  breadth,  comprising  an 
area  of  2000  acres,  of  which  not  more  than  600  are 
arable,  and  the  remainder  hill  pasture,  rock,  or  morass. 


1  R  V  I 


I  R  V  1 


The  surface  rises  into  eminences,  of  which  the  highest, 
Dun-ii,  has  an  elevation  of  400  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  coast  on  the  eastern  side  is  low  and 
sandy,  and  is  indented  with  a  bay,  called  the  Bay  of 
Martyrs,  in  which  were  landed  the  bodies  of  such  as 
were  intended  for  interment  in  the  cemetery.  This  bay, 
which  affords  good  anchorage  in  five  fathoms,  within 
two  cables'  length  of  the  shore,  is  frequented  by  nu- 
merous steamers  conveying  passengers  to  visit  the 
island;  and  near  it  is  the  village,  containing  about  170 
persons.  On  the  western  shore  of  the  isle  is  Port-na- 
Currach,  or  the  "  bay  of  the  boat,"  where  St.  Columba 
is  said  to  have  landed,  in  commemoration  of  which 
event  a  heap  of  earth,  about  fifty  feet  in  length,  was 
thrown  up  in  the  form  of  a  boat,  with  the  keel  upwards. 
Numerous  small  springs  of  excellent  water  intersect  the 
island  ;  and  near  the  abbey  gardens  are  vestiges  of  an 
artificial  lake  of  several  acres,  surrounded  by  hills  ;  also 
the  ruins  of  a  mill.  The  soil  of  the  arable  land  is  light 
and  sandy,  but  fertile,  producing  favourable  crops ; 
several  of  the  hills  are  arable  to  their  summit,  and  in 
good  cultivation,  and  most  of  the  others  afford  excellent 
pasture.  Marble  of  good  quality  was  formerly  wrought 
by  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  and  considerable  quantities  sent 
to  Leith  and  London ;  but  the  mines  have  been  discon- 
tinued for  some  time.  Pebbles  of  green  serpentine, 
also,  are  found  along  the  shore  ;  they  are  susceptible 
of  a  high  polish,  and  are  formed  into  various  elegant 
trinkets.  The  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Iona,  erected  by 
authority  of  act  of  parliament,  comprises,  besides  the 
island,  a  district  of  Mull,  containing  a  population  of 
620  persons  :  the  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  placed  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  presbytery  of  Mull  and  synod 
of  Argyll.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £120,  paid  by 
government,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £1.  10. 
per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Crown.  The  church,  erected 
by  government,  in  1S28,  at  a  cost  of  £700,  is  a  neat 
structure  containing  266  sittings.  The  members  of  the 
Free  Church  have  a  place  of  worship.  A  school,  for 
which  an  appropriate  building  has  been  erected  by  the 
Duke  of  Argyll,  is  supported  by  government ;  and  there 
is  also  a  school  maintained  by  a  Society. 

IRONGRAY,     Kirkcudbright.  —  See     Kirkpa- 
trick-Irongray. 


Obverse. 


Seal. 


IRVINE,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of  Cunning- 
hams, county  of  Ayr,  26  miles  (W.  S.  W.)  from  Glasgow, 
and  6875  (W.  by  S.)  from  Edinburgh;  containing  5214 
inhabitants,  of  whom  4594  are  resident  within  the 
burgh  of  Irvine  ;  exclusively  of  3053  in  the  parish  of 
Dundonald,  into  which  the  town  extends,  the  total 
population  of  the  town  being  7647.  This  place  derives 
583 


its  name  from  the  river  on  which  it  is  situated,  and 
appears  to  have  attained  a  high  degree  of  importance  at 
a  very  early  period.  The  inhabitants  obtained  from 
Alexander  II.  a  charter  conferring  upon  the  town  all  the 
privileges  of  a  royal  burgh  ;  and  a  charter  confirming 
all  previous  grants  was  subsequently  given  to  them  by 
Robert  Bruce,  in  recompense  of  their  services  during 
his  wars  with  England  in  the  reign  of  Edward  I.  These 
two  charters  were  renewed  and  enlarged  by  successive 
sovereigns  till  the  reign  of  James  VI. ;  and  the  various 
immunities  possessed  by  the  inhabitants  were  ratified 
by  parliament  in  1641.  The  town  is  finely  situated  on 
the  north-east  bank  of  the  river  Irvine,  near  its  junction 
with  the  Garnock,  and  consists  partly  of  one  spacious 
street,  extending  throughout  its  whole  length,  from, 
which  diverge  several  smaller  but  well-formed  streets, 
at  right  angles.  The  streets  are  well  paved,  and  lighted 
with  gas  ;  and  the  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  with 
water.  A  public  library  was  established  in  1796,  and  is 
supported  by  subscription  ;  there  is  also  a  reading  and 
news  room,  well  supplied  with  the  daily  journals  and 
the  most  esteemed  periodical  publications.  A  handsome 
bridge,  erected  in  1746,  and  greatly  improved  in  1S27, 
connects  the  town  with  the  spacious  suburb  of  Fullar- 
ton,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river ;  and  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  are  some  fine  downs,  on  which  the 
game  of  golf  takes  place,  and  the  Eglinton  races  are 
held.  The  environs  are  interspersed  with  numerous 
pleasant  villas ;  and  the  scenery,  in  itself  picturesque, 
is  heightened  by  the  proximity  of  the  grounds  of  Eglin- 
ton Park. 

The  chief  manufacture  carried  on  is  the  weaving  of 
book-muslin,  jaconets,  and  checks,  in  which  more  than 
500  looms  are  engaged  ;  and  great  numbers  of  females 
are  employed  in  tambouring  muslin.  The  manufacture 
of  anchors  and  cables  is  also  considerable  :  there  are 
extensive  rope- walks,  a  yard  for  ship-building,  and  some 
works  for  magnesia  and  other  chemical  processes.  The 
trade  of  the  port,  which,  previously  to  the  erection  of 
Port-Glasgow,  was  the  shipping-place  of  the  Glasgow 
merchants,  now  consists  principally  in  the  export  of 
coal,  of  which  nearly  300,000  tons  are  annually  shipped, 
chiefly  for  Ireland  and  various  parts  of  the  British  coast, 
but  occasionally  for  France,  Malta,  Gibraltar,  and  other 
foreign  parts.  The  chief  imports  are,  timber,  and  some- 
times grain,  from  America ;  grain  and  butter,  in  large 
quantities,  from  Ireland ;  and  iron,  slates,  and  limestone, 
from  various  places.  The  number  of  vessels  belonging 
to  the  port,  in  1S43,  was  122,  of  15,380  tons'  aggregate 
burthen  5  and  the  amount  of  duties  paid  at  the  custom- 
house, £2040.  The  harbour,  which  was  greatly  im- 
proved in  1826,  and  has  since  been  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  commissioners,  has  more  than  thirteen  feet 
depth  of  water  on  the  bar  at  spring-tides,  and  is  acces- 
sible to  vessels  not  exceeding  250  tons.  The  jurisdic- 
tion of  the  port  extends  over  that  portion  of  the  coast 
included  between  Troon  and  Largs.  The  post-office  has 
a  good  delivery.  Branches  of  the  Union,  Ayrshire,  and 
British  Linen  Company's  banks,  have  been  established  ; 
and  great  facility  of  communication  is  afforded  by  the 
Glasgow  and  Ayr  railway,  which  has  one  of  its  inter- 
mediate stations  in  the  town.  The  market,  which  is 
abundantly  supplied  with  grain  and  provisions  of  all 
kinds,  is  on  Monday.  Fairs  are  held  on  the  first  Wed- 
nesday in  January,  for  horses ;    the  first  Tuesday  in 


I  R  V  I 


I  S  L  A 


May,  for  cattle  ;  and  the  third  Monday  and  Wednesday 
in  August,  for  horses,  and  for  lint  and  wool.  The  an- 
cient market-cross,  a  very  elegant  structure  in  the  centre 
of  the  town,  was  removed  in  1694,  and  the  materials 
employed  in  the  erection  of  the  present  meal-market. 

The  government  of  the  burgh,  by  the  charter  of 
James  VI.,  is  vested  in  a  provost,  two  bailies,  a  dean  of 
guild,  and  a  treasurer,  with  twelve  councillors,  chosen 
under  the  regulations  of  the  Municipal  Reform  act. 
There  are  six  incorporated  trades,  namely,  the  shoe- 
makers, coopers,  tailors,  weavers,  hammermen,  and 
squaremen.  The  fee  of  admission  as  a  guild  burgess  is 
£5;  and  as  a  common  burgess,  £2.  10.  for  a  stranger, 
and  half  that  sum  for  a  sou  or  son-in-law  of  a  bur- 
gess. The  magistrates,  whose  jurisdiction  is  confined  to 
the  royalty,  hold  burgh  courts  both  in  civil  and  cri- 
minal matters;  and  a  justice-of-peace  court  is  regularly 
held  here,  as  is  also  a  sheriff's  court.  The  town- 
hall,  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  principal  street,  was 
built  in  1/45,  and  is  a  neat  plain  structure,  contain- 
ing a  court-room  and  a  council-chamber,  the  public 
library,  and  three  apartments  for  criminals.  The 
debtors'  prison  has  been  discontinued  since  1840,  under 
the  new  Prison  act,  and  has  been  transferred  to  the 
county  gaol  of  Ayr,  whither,  also,  all  criminal  prisoners 
are  sent  whose  cases  require  more  than  temporary  con- 
finement. The  burgh  is  associated  with  those  of  Ayr, 
Campbelltown,  Inverary,  and  Oban,  in  returning  a 
member  to  the  imperial  parliament  :  the  number  of 
qualified  voters,  including  the  suburb  of  Fullarton, 
which  is  within  the  parliamentary  boundaries,  is  237. 

The  parish,  situated  in  the  north-western  portion  of 
the  county,  is  bounded  on  the  east  and  south-east  by 
the  river  Annick  ;  on  the  west,  by  the  Irvine ;  and  on 
the  north-west,  by  the  river  Garnock.  It  is  about  four 
miles  in  length  and  nearly  two  in  extreme  breadth, 
comprising  an  area  of  almost  4000  acres,  of  which  3000 
are  arable,  and  the  remainder,  woodland,  plantations, 
and  waste.  The  surface  along  the  shore,  and  on  the 
banks  of  the  rivers,  is  flat  and  sandy  ;  the  soil  near  the 
town  is  a  light  rich  loam,  and  in  the  higher  parts  a 
strong  clay.  The  crops  are,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  pota- 
toes, and  turnips;  the  system  of  husbandry  is  improved; 
the  lands  are  well  drained  and  inclosed,  and  the  farm- 
buildings  generally  substantial  and  commodious.  The 
dairy-farms  are  well  managed,  and  the  produce  is  in 
high  reputation.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish 
is  £10,156.  The  plantations  distributed  over  various 
parts  are  mostly  in  a  thriving  state  :  there  are  some 
considerable  remains  of  ancient  timber.  The  chief  sub- 
strata are,  coal,  of  which  there  are  numerous  seams  ; 
and  whinstone,  of  good  quality  for  building,  and  of  which 
an  extensive  quarry,  near  the  town,  is  in  full  operation. 
The  only  seat  of  importance  is  Bourtree  Hill,  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Annick,  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  to  the  east  of  the  town. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  presbytery  of  Irvine,  of  which  this  place 
is  the  seat,  and  the  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr.  The 
minister's  stipend  is  £280.  9-,  with  a  manse,  and  a  glebe 
valued  at  £25  per  annum  ;  patron,  the  Earl  of  Eglin- 
ton.  The  church,  erected  in  1774,  and  repaired  in 
1830,  is  a  spacious  structure  with  a  handsome  tower 
and  spire,  and  contains  1800  sittings.  There  are  places 
of  worship  for  members  of  the  Free  Church,  the  Relief 
584 


and  Secession  Synods,  and  Baptists.  The  academy,  for 
which  a  building  was  erected  in  the  town  in  1S16, 
capable  of  receiving  500  pupils,  is  under  the  patronage 
of  the  corporation,  who  appoint  a  rector  with  a  salary 
of  £30,  and  an  English  master  and  a  commercial  master, 
who  are  in  receipt  of  salaries  of  £30  each,  in  addition  to 
the  fees,  which,  however,  are  moderate.  Near  Bourtree 
Hill  are  some  remains  of  an  ancient  structure  called 
Stone  Castle,  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Eglinton  ;  the 
principal  portion  is  a  square  tower,  of  unknown  anti- 
quity. With  this  castle  is  said  to  have  been  connected 
a  nunnery  with  a  chapel  and  cemetery.  Irvine  is  re- 
markable as  the  birthplace  of  Montgomery,  the  poet, 
and  of  Gait,  the  novelist ;  and  as  having  been  for  some 
time  the  residence  of  Burns  :  whilst  the  last  named 
was  endeavouring  to  establish  himself  in  business  here, 
his  shop  was  unfortunately  burnt,  and  his  prospects 
blighted. 

ISLAY,  a  large  island,  in  the  county  of  Argyll  ; 
comprising  the  parishes  of  Kilchoman,  Kildalton,  and 
Kilarrow ;  and  containing  13,602  inhabitants.  It  is 
variously  called,  by  some  Ila,  Hay,  and  Isla,  but  more 
commonly  Islay ;  and  is,  according  to  some  accounts, 
twenty-eight  miles  in  length  and  eighteen  in  breadth, 
while  others  make  its  length  twenty-five  miles  and  its 
breadth  twenty-two.  The  island  is  separated  from  Jura 
by  a  narrow  sound,  over  which  is  a  ferry  from  Portas- 
kaig  to  Feoline  on  the  opposite  shore.  Islay  was  once 
a  part  of  the  kingdom  of  the  lords  of  the  Isles,  who 
were  crowned  here  by  the  bishops  of  Argyll,  upon  a 
large  stone,  which  is  still  pointed  out ;  and  numerous 
ruins  and  memorials  of  antiquity,  consisting  of  castles, 
forts,  and  chapels,  are  to  be  found  in  almost  every 
direction,  attesting  the  former  importance  of  the  isle. 
It  continued  under  the  lords  until  the  reign  of  James  III. ; 
and  when  their  power  was  abolished,  their  descendants, 
the  Macdonalds,  were  the  proprietors,  holding  directly 
of  the  Crown.  It  afterwards  passed,  by  the  fortune  of 
war,  to  the  Macleans ;  but  James  VI.,  irritated  at  the  dis- 
turbances raised  by  the  private  wars  waged  between  these 
and  other  clans,  rescinded  the  grant  made  by  his  pre- 
decessor, and  transferred  the  lands  of  Islay,  Jura,  and 
Muckairu,  to  Sir  John  Campbell,  of  Cawdor,  ancestor 
of  the  earls  Cawdor,  in  consideration  of  an  annual  feu- 
duty,  whereof  the  portion  for  this  island  was  £500,  paid 
to  this  day.  It  is  now  the  property  of  another  family 
of  the  same  name,  a  member  of  whom  was  lately  the 
representative  of  the  county. 

Islay  is  in  general  mountainous,  especially  towards 
the  north,  but  there  is  much  low,  level,  and  cultivated 
land  ;  the  coast  is  indented  by  bays  and  points,  and 
the  shores  are  for  the  most  part  rugged.  The  inlets  of 
Loch  Indal  and  Loch  Gruuard  nearly  insulate  a  consi- 
derable part  of  the  district  of  Kilchoman  ;  and  besides 
several  inland  lakes,  there  are  numerous  streams  and 
rivulets,  in  some  of  which  are  salmon  and  trout :  the 
whole  coast,  also,  abounds  with  fish.  Lead-mines  were 
at  one  time  very  successfully  wrought,  to  the  north-west 
of  Portaskaig  ;  and  a  copper-mine,  likewise,  was  long  in 
operation ;  but  as  the  ore  was  mixed  with  lead,  and  the 
separation  was  troublesome,  both  mines  were  at  length 
abandoned.  The  facilities  for  the  improvement  of  the 
land  are  very  great,  and  more  than  one-half  of  the  sur- 
face could  be  brought  into  regular  tillage.  The  island 
boasts  of  the  breed  and  number  of  its  cattle  and  horses; 


JANE 


J  ED  B 


but  whisky,  for  which  it  is  also  celebrated,  is  the  great 
staple  commodity,  producing  annually  to  government  a 
revenue  of  more  than  £30,000  :  two-thirds  of  the  grain 
used  in  the  distillation  are  raised  on  the  isle.  Bow- 
more  is  the  principal  village ;  it  is  situated  on  the 
banks  of  Loch  Indal,  at  the  extremity  of  the  bay,  and 
is  a  neat  and  improving  modern  village,  consisting  of 
regularly-formed  streets,  which  intersect  each  other  at 
right  angles,  and  the  houses  are  in  general  well  built. 
It  has  an  excellent  harbour,  with  a  fine  quay,  and  there 
is  good  anchorage  for  vessels  drawing  ten  feet  of 
water.  The  village  is  the  seat  of  the  presbytery  of 
Islay  and  Jura.  See  Bowmore.  There  are  a  few 
handsome  seats  :  Islay  House  stands  at  the  head  of 
Loch  Indal,  having  in  front  an  extensive  level  lawn,  and 
is  surrounded  by  plantations,  the  ground  gently  rising, 
and  being  extremely  well-wooded  behind.  Ardnave, 
near  Loch  Grunard,  was  either  the  birthplace  or  the 
paternal  residence  of  the  lady  of  Prince  Polignac,  in- 
volved in  the  fate  of  Charles  X.  of  France,  and  for  years 
a  state  prisoner  in  the  fortress  of  Ham.  On  the  islet  of 
Oversay,  opposite  to  Portnahaven,  is  a  very  fine  light- 
house, of  which  the  light,  flashing  every  five  seconds,  is 
seen  at  the   distance  of  seventeen  nautical   miles. — See 

KlLCHOMAN,   KlLDALTON,  and   KlLARROW. 

ISLE    OF    WHITHORN.— See   Whithorn,    Isle 

OF. 

ISSAY,  an  island,  in  that  part  of  the  parish  of 
Duirinish  which  constituted  the  late  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Waternish,  county  of  Inverness;  contain- 
ing 90  inhabitants.  This  isle,  also  called  Eilean  Isa,  or 
"  Island  of  Jesus,"  is  the  largest  of  several  isles  lying 
between  Loch  Bay  and  Loth  Dunvegan,  two  considera- 
ble north-western  inlets  of  the  Isle  of  Skye.  It  is  about 
three  miles  in  circumference  ;  and  the  soil,  being  gene- 
rally fertile,  affords  comfortable  support  to  about  fifteen 
families. 


JAMESTOWN,  or  Dam  head,  a  village,  in  the  pa- 
rish of  Bonhill,  county  of  Dumbarton;  containing 
314  inhabitants.  This  place,  heretofore  a  small  hamlet, 
has  latterly  increased  in  population  and  extent,  owing 
to  the  numerous  and  flourishing  calico-printing  and 
bleaching  establishments  which  have  sprung  up  in  the 
parish,  and  in  which  the  population  here  are  chiefly 
employed. 

JAMESTOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Contin, 
county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty;  containing  115  inha- 
bitants. 

JANETOWN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Lochcar- 
ron,  county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty,  1  mile  (S.)  from 
Lochcarron  ;  containing  513  inhabitants.  It  is  situated 
on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Carron  loch,  an  arm  of  the 
sea  into  which  falls  the  Carron  water  about  two  miles 
northward  of  the  village.  From  a  very  small  hamlet 
consisting  of  only  three  families,  it  has  risen  latterly 
into  comparative  importance,  in  consequence,  princi- 
pally, of  the  division  of  land  into  lots.  The  high  road 
from  Dingwall  to  the  western  coast  passes  through  ; 
and  there  is  a  post-office,  where  the  mails  arrive  three 
times  a  week.  On  the  Carron  is  a  good  salmon-fishery. 
Vol.  I.— 585 


Bursh  Seal. 


JEDBURGH,  a  burgh, 
market-town,  and  parish,  in 
the  district  of  Jedburgh, 
county  of  Roxburgh,  of 
which  it  is  the  capital,  11 
miles  (S.  W.  by  S.)  from 
Kelso,  and  49  (S.  E.  by  S.) 
from  Edinburgh ;  contain- 
ing, with  the  villages  of  Bon- 
gate,  Bonjedward,  Lanton, 
andUlston,  5116  inhabitants, 
of  whom  2697are  inthe  town. 
This  place  derives  its  name, 
originally  Jedworih,  or  Jedicvod,  from  its  situation  on 
the  river  Jed,  which  rises  on  the  north  side  of  the  Car- 
lin  Tooth,  in  the  Cheviot  range,  and,  after  flowing  with 
considerable  rapidity  through  nearly  the  whole  length 
of  the  parish,  and  receiving  in  its  course  numerous 
tributary  streams  which  descend  from  the  higher  lands 
into  the  vale  of  the  Jed,  falls  into  the  river  Teviot 
about  two  miles  and  a  half  to  the  north  of  Jedburgh. 
From  the  name  of  the  river,  in  ancient  records  fre- 
quently called  Ged  or  Gad,  this  place  is  thought  to  have 
been  the  principal  seat  of  the  Gadeni,  who  occupied  the 
district  lying  between  the  county  of  Northumberland 
and  the  river  Teviot.  The  ancient  town,  now  called 
Old  Jedworth,  in  contradistinction  to  the  present  burgh, 
from  which  it  is  about  four  miles  distant,  appears  to 
have  originated  in  the  foundation  of  a  chapel  by  Ecgred, 
Bishop  of  Lindisfarn,  who  died  in  S45  ;  and  there  are 
still  some  slight  remains  of  the  walls  of  the  building, 
and  of  the  tombstones  in  the  cemetery,  though  scarcely 
above  the  level  of  the  ground,  and  perfectly  hidden  by 
the  grass  by  which  they  are  overspread.  The  present 
town  owes  its  origin  to  the  foundation  of  the  magnificent 
abbey  of  Jedburgh.  This  establishment  is,  by  some 
historians,  said  to  have  been  founded  in  1118,  and  by 
others  in  1147;  but,  from  the  great  antiquity  of  some 
parts  of  the  structure,  and  also  from  old  documents  in 
which  St.  Kennock  is  mentioned  as  abbot  in  the  year 
1000,  it  is  supposed  to  have  existed  prior  to  the  time  of 
David  I.,  by  whom  it  was  probably  rebuilt  or  enlarged. 
From  the  situation  of  Jedburgh  as  a  border  town,  it  was 
exposed  to  continual  depredations,  and  was  frequently 
plundered  and  reduced  to  ashes.  It  suffered  materially 
during  the  invasion  of  Scotland  by  Edward  I.,  and  sub- 
sequently by  the  incursions  of  hostile  clans  ;  the  abbey 
was  burnt  and  pillaged  by  the  Earl  of  Surrey  in  1523, 
and  by  the  Earl  of  Hertford  in  1545.  In  1566,  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots,  attended  by  an  armed  retinue,  held  a 
court  of  justice  at  this  place,  for  the  suppression  of  the 
turbulence  of  the  borderers  ;  and,  being  seized  with  a 
dangerous  illness  during  her  continuance  here,  resided  in 
"  the  house  of  the  Lord  Compositor"  till  her  recovery, 
when  she  returned  along  the  eastern  borders  to  Dunbar. 
In  1575,  a  severe  affray,  called  the  "  Raid  of  the  Reed 
Swire,"  happened  here  ;  it  was  the  last  of  those  hostile 
feuds  which  so  frequently  took  place  between  the  bor- 
derers of  Scotland  and  England;  and  since  its  occur- 
rence the  only  event  deserving  of  historical  notice,  has 
been  the  temporary  alarm  created  by  the  arrival  of  the 
Pretender  and  his  Highland  troops  in  1745. 

From  its  exposed  situation,  the  town  was  strongly 
defended  by  castles,  and  by  numerous  other  fortifica- 
tions ;  and  the  forest  in  its  immediate  vicinity  was  the 

4  F 


JEDB 


JE  D  B 


rendezvous  of  numerous  armies.  The  Castle  of  Jedburgh 
was  of  great  antiquity,  though  the  precise  time  of  its 
erection,  and  the  name  of  its  original  founder,  are  un- 
known ;  it  was  a  place  of  much  strength,  and  the  favour- 
ite seat  of  Malcolm  IV.,  who  died  here  in  1165.  It 
was  the  frequent  residence,  also,  of  many  others  of  the 
kings,  among  whom  were,  William  the  Lion,  Alexander 
II.,  and  Alexander  III.,  whose  son,  Alexander,  was  born 
here  in  1263,  and  who,  after  the  death  of  his  children, 
celebrated  in  this  castle,  with  unusual  pomp,  his  subse- 
quent marriage  with  Jolande,  daughter  of  the  Count  de 
Dreux.  During  the  wars  between  the  two  kingdoms, 
the  castle  was  often  an  object  of  contest :  after  the 
battle  of  Durham,  it  was  taken  by  the  English,  who 
kept  possession  of  it  till  1409,  when  it  was  retaken  by 
the  Scots,  by  whom  it  was  afterwards  demolished.  The 
Castle  of  Fernihirst,  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the 
river  Jed,  about  two  miles  from  Jedburgh,  is  supposed 
to  have  been  founded  by  the  ancestors  of  the  Marquess 
of  Lothian  ;  it  was  taken  in  1523,  by  the  Earl  of  Sur- 
rey, and  remained  in  the  hands  of  the  English  till  1547, 
when,  after  an  obstinate  siege,  it  was  retaken  by  the 
Scots,  assisted  by  a  party  of  French  at  that  time  sta- 
tioned at  Jedburgh.  In  1569,  the  Earl  of  Westmorland, 
who  had  entered  into  a  rebellion  against  Elizabeth,  in 
favour  of  Mary,  after  the  dispersion  of  his  troops  took 
refuge  in  this  castle,  where  he  remained  in  concealment 
till  he  finally  effected  his  escape  into  the  Netherlands. 
In  the  year  following,  the  castle,  in  consequence  of  its 
owner  having  joined  with  others  of  the  border  chiefs, 
in  an  irruption  into  the  English  pale,  was  taken  and  de- 
molished by  the  Earl  of  Sussex  and  Sir  John  Foster ; 
but  it  was  rebuilt  in  159S,  and  part  still  remains  entire. 
After  the  destruction  of  Jedburgh  Castle,  the  town  was 
defended  by  six  towers,  of  which,  however,  there  are 
none  remaining ;  and  other  fortifications  were  scattered 
through  the  parish,  of  which  the  tower  at  Lanton,  nd 
the  ruins  of  another  at  Timpandeau,  are  still  left. 

The  town  is  pleasingly  situated  in  the  picturesque 
and  fertile  valley  of  the  river  Jed,  over  which,  within 
the  parish,  are  nine  bridges.  Of  these,  one  at  the  foot 
of  the  Canongate,  handsomely  built  of  stone,  and  having 
three  ribbed  circular  arches,  is  of  great  antiquity,  and 
had  formerly  a  gateway  over  the  centre,  long  since 
removed.  The  bridge  near  Bongate  is  of  modern  erec- 
tion :  and  near  it  is  a  large  stone,  sculptured  with 
representations  of  various  animals,  and  inscribed  with 
nearly  obliterated  characters,  and  which  is  supposed  to 
have  been  the  pedestal  of  the  ancient  cross  of  Bongate. 
The  house  in  which  Queen  Mary  resided  during  her 
illness  is  still  entire ;  it  is  a  spacious  building  with  walls 
of  great  thickness,  and  some  of  the  ancient  tapestry  is 
yet  preserved.  It  is  at  present  the  property  of  the 
Lindsay  family,  by  whom  it  was  purchased  from  the 
Scotts,  of  Ancrum.  The  streets  are  spacious  and  regu- 
larly formed ;  the  houses  in  general  well  built ;  and  in 
the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  town,  are  many 
handsome  villas.  There  are  three  public  libraries,  of 
which  one,  called  the  Company's  Library,  contains  a  very 
extensive  collection ;  also  a  circulating  library  and  a 
reading-room,  and  two  public  reading-rooms.  The  prin- 
cipal trade  is  the  manufacture  of  blankets,  flannels, 
tartans,  shawls,  plaidings,  hosiery,  woollen-yarn,  and 
carpets,  affording  constant  employment  to  nearly  400 
persons.  There  are  also  foundries  for  brass  and  iron, 
586 


and  a  manufactory  for  printing-presses,  in  which  latter 
about  twenty  persons  are  engaged.  The  town  has  two 
branch  banks,  one  a  branch  of  the  Linen  Company,  and 
the  other  of  the  National  Bank ;  likewise  a  savings' 
bank  for  the  district  of  Jedburgh,  including  the  parishes 
of  Jedburgh,  Ancrum,  Bedrule,  Southdean,  Hobkirk, 
Minto,  Oxnam,  and  Crailing,  established  by  Mr.  Ruther- 
ford, of  Edgerston,  in  1S15,  and  the  expenses  of  which 
are  defrayed  from  a  fund  raised  by  subscription.  The 
market  is  on  Tuesday,  and  is  chiefly  for  grain,  which  is 
sold  by  sample  to  a  very  considerable  amount.  Fairs 
for  horses  and  cattle  are  held  by  charter  on  the  26th 
of  May,  or  on  the  first  Tuesday  after ;  the  second 
Tuesday  in  August,  O.  S.  ;  the  25th  September,  or  on 
the  following  Tuesday,  if  the  25th  happen  either  on 
Saturday,  Sunday,  or  Monday ;  and  the  first  Tuesday 
in  November,  O.  S.  Statute-fairs  for  hiring  servants 
occur  at  Whitsuntide  and  Martinmas  ;  and  there  are 
markets,  toll  free,  for  sheep  and  cattle,  established  in 
1 823,  on  the  second  Thursday  in  every  month  from  De- 
cember till  the  end  of  May.  There  are  also  large  fairs 
for  sheep,  at  Rink,  in  the  parish,  seven  miles  from  the 
town,  on  July  12th,  and  October  15th,  which  are  nume- 
rously attended  by  farmers,  and  dealers  in  wool,  both 
of  Scotland  and  England. 

The  various  charters  by  which  the  burgh  was  origi- 
nally incorporated  were  all  destroyed  during  the  wars 
with  England,  in  the  course  of  which  the  town  was  fre- 
quently burned ;  but  they  were  renewed  and  confirmed 
by  Queen  Mary,  in  1556,  when  the  magistrates  were 
invested  with  the  power  of  apprehending,  and  passing 
sentence  upon,  criminals  guilty  of  capital  offences.  By 
another  charter,  James  VI.,  in  3  569,  granted  to  the 
corporation  all  the  revenues  of  the  abbey  of  Jedburgh 
arising  within  the  parish,  for  the  purpose  of  erecting 
hospitals  for  the  support  of  the  poor  and  infirm,  and  for 
other  pious  uses.  This  gift  was  ratified  by  parliament 
in  1597  ;  and  a  further  charter  was  bestowed  by  Charles 
II.,  in  1641.  By  these  charters,  the  government  of  the 
bm-gh  is  vested  in  a  provost,  four  bailies,  a  dean  of 
guild,  and  a  council  of  eighteen  :  the  incorporated 
trades  consist  of  the  smiths,  weavers,  shoemakers,  ma- 
sons, tailors,  wrights,  butchers,  and  glovers.  Under 
the  act  for  amending  the  representation,  the  burgh 
unites  with  those  of  Haddington,  North  Berwick,  Lau- 
der, and  Dunbar,  in  returning  one  member  to  parlia- 
ment. The  original  boundary  has  been  enlarged  by  the 
inclusion  of  a  considerable  suburb  on  the  south  side  of 
the  river,  and  the  exclusion  of  a  few  acres  of  uninha- 
bited land:  the  number  of  houses  of  the  value  of  £10  and 
upwards  is  208,  and  of  those  above  £5  and  below  £10, 
sixty-eight.  The  magistrates,  in  addition  to  their  con- 
troul  within  the  burgh,  exercise  jurisdiction  over  the 
great  fair  of  St.  James,  near  Kelso,  where  they  preside 
at  a  court  to  take  cognizance  of  offences  during  the  fair. 
They  hold,  within  the  burgh,  a  bailie-court,  and  a  court 
of  the  dean  of  guild  ;  but  since  the  sheriff's  court,  and 
that  of  the  justices  of  peace  have  been  established,  the 
burgh  [courts  have  greatly  declined.  The  chief  officer 
under  the  corporation  is  the  town-clerk,  who  holds  his 
office  for  life.  The  county-hall  is  a  neat  building  of  stone, 
containing  the  necessary  apartments  for  transacting 
the  public  business  of  the  county  and  the  burgh.  "The 
Castle,"  comprising  the  gaol  and  bridewell,  is  a  hand- 
some edifice,  well  arranged  for  classification,  and  con- 


J  ED  B 


J  ED  B 


tains  day-rooms,  airing-yards,  and  every  requisite  for 
the  health,  cleanliness,  and  comfort  of  the  prisoners. 

The  parish,  which  is  divided  into  two  detached  por- 
tions by  the  intervening  parishes  of  Oxnam  and  South- 
dean,  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parishes  of 
Ancrum  and  Crailing,  on  the  west  by  those  of  Bedrule 
and  Southdean,  on  the  east  by  Oxnam  and  Eckford, 
and  on  the  south  by  the  county  of  Northumberland. 
The  lower  portion,  in  which  the  burgh  is  situated,  is 
about  seven  miles  in  length  and  five  in  breadth,  and  the 
upper  portion  five  miles  in  length  and  four  in  breadth, 
including  together  an  area  of  thirty-eight  square  miles. 
The  eastern  part  of  the  lower  portion  is  intersected  by 
the  river  Oxnam,  and  the  northern  part  by  the  Teviot. 
The  surface  is  pleasingly  diversified  with  hills  and  val- 
leys :  the  high  grounds  on  the  sides  of  the  vale  of  Jed 
are  penetrated  by  deep  ravines,  and  in  some  places  gra- 
dually attain  an  elevation  of  300  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  river.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  parish  are  several 
green  hills,  of  conical  form,  of  which  two,  rising  to  the 
height  of  1100  feet,  are  apparently  lessened  from  their 
proximity  to  Carter  Fell,  one  of  the  Cheviot  hills,  which 
has  an  elevation  of  more  than  2000  feet.  The  Dunian, 
the  highest  hill  in  the  parish,  but  of  w'hich  the  summit 
is  in  the  parish  of  Bedrule,  has  an  elevation  of  1120 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Some  remains  of  the 
ancient  forest  of  Jed,  consisting  of  a  few  clusters  of 
birch-trees,  still  exist  near  Fernihirst ;  and  considerable 
plantations,  which  have  now  attained  a  luxuriant  growth, 
add  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  Two  oaks,  also, 
of  the  ancient  forest  are  yet  left,  near  the  town  :  the 
one,  rising  to  the  height  of  ninety-nine  feet,  measures 
fourteen  feet  in  girth ;  and  the  other,  which  has  less 
height,  but  branches  out  more  widely,  is  twenty-one 
feet  in  girth  at  three  feet  from  the  ground.  Forest- 
trees  of  every  kind  grow  well  in  the  lower  lands  ;  in  the 
higher,  Scotch  fir  and  larch  are  the  most  prevalent. 
From  the  old  stocks  in  the  forest,  which  was  cut  down 
in  the  last  century,  many  new  trees  have  arisen  ;  and 
the  whole  district  abounds  in  timber. 

The  soil  is  peculiarly  favourable  for  the  growth  of 
fruit-trees  ;  and  pears  in  great  variety,  and  of  the  finest 
quality,  are  produced  in  abundance.  The  land,  espe- 
cially in  the  lower  districts,  is  fertile,  and  of  good 
quality,  and  the  system  of  agriculture  is  much  im- 
proved ;  considerable  tracts  of  waste  have  been  re- 
claimed within  the  last  thirty  years,  and  at  present  the 
number  of  acres  under  tillage  is  14/2S1,  in  pasture  6930, 
and  under  wood  24SS.  The  prevailing  plan  of  husban- 
dry is  the  five-shift,  consisting  of  two  white  and  three 
green  crops ;  the  fences  and  in  closures  are  kept  in  excel- 
lent order,  and  the  farm-buildings  are  commodious  and 
in  good  repair.  Many  improvements  have  been  made 
in  draining  and  planting,  and  in  the  breed  of  stock, 
under  an  association  called  the  Farmers'  Club ;  and  the 
Roxburgh  Horticultural  Society  hold  monthly  meetings 
in  the  town  from  the  beginning  of  April  to  the  end  of 
September,  for  the  distribution  of  prizes  to  the  most 
successful  growers  of  flowers,  fruits,  and  vegetables. 
Limestone  of  excellent  quality  abounds  in  the  southern 
parts  of  the  parish  ;  and  near  the  town  are  several 
strata  ranged  above  each  other,  of  which  one  is  nine 
inches  in  thickness.  Coal  exists,  and  there  are  appear- 
ances of  its  having  been  formerly  worked ;  but  some 
recent  attempts  to  procure  it  have  been  discontinued. 
5S7 


There  are  several  sandstone  quarries,  of  a  white,  and 
also  of  a  reddish  colour.  Iron-ore  is  found  in  a  bed 
three  feet  in  thickness,  occurring  between  the  primary 
and  secondary  formations,  which  near  the  town  are 
seen  in  combination  ;  the  strata  of  the  former  are  ver- 
tical and  in  many  places  irregular,  and  of  the  latter 
horizontal,  alternating  with  red  freestone  and  soft  sand- 
stone of  the  same  colour.  Several  of  the  hills  are  of 
whinstone,  resting  on  sandstone.  The  chief  seats  in  the 
parish  are,  Edgerston,  Mossburnford,  Langlee,  Lintalee, 
Hundalee,  Glenburn  Hall,  Hunthill,  Stewartfield,  and 
Bonjedward.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  Jedburgh 
is  £22,370. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  presbytery  of  Jedburgh,  of  which  this  is 
the  seat,  and  of  the  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale ; 
patron,  the  Crown.  The  stipend  of  the  incumbent  is 
£297,  'with  a  manse,  built  in  1S06  ;  and  the  glebe  com- 
prises seven  acres  of  arable  land  worth  £5  per  acre,  and 
pasture  land  which  lets  for  £13.  13.  The  church  is 
part  of  the  ancient  abbey,  of  which  the  western  portion 
of  the  nave  has  been  fitted  up  for  public  worship,  and 
affords  accommodation  to  910  persons.  Of  that  stately 
and  magnificent  structure,  situated  on  the  sloping  bank 
of  the  river  Jed,  near  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
town,  the  only  remains  are,  the  nave,  the  north  tran- 
sept, and  the  choir  of  the  church,  a  cruciform  building, 
230  feet  in  length,  with  a  massive  central  tower,  rising 
to  the  height  of  100  feet,  and  surmounted  by  a  pro- 
jecting battlement  crowned  with  turrets  and  pinnacles. 
The  western  entrance  is  strikingly  beautiful,  consisting 
of  a  lofty  Norman  doorway  of  deeply-recessed  arches, 
springing  from  slender  clustered  columns,  richly  moulded 
and  elaborately  ornamented.  Above  the  doorway  is  a 
spacious  window  of  three  compartments,  of  which  the 
central  arch  is  circular,  and  the  others  finely  pointed  j 
and  in  the  gable  is  a  round  window  of  very  elegant 
design.  The  nave,  which  is  130  feet  in  length,  is  sepa- 
rated on  each  side,  from  the  aisles,  by  a  series  of  lofty 
arches  supported  on  clustered  columns  with  sculptured 
capitals  :  the  triforium  consists  of  semicircular  arches 
richly  moulded,  circumscribing  two  pointed  windows 
of  elegant  tracery ;  and  the  clerestory,  of  a  range 
of  pointed  windows  of  graceful  proportions.  The 
choir,  which  is  greatly  dilapidated,  is  of  more  ancient 
character.  Its  roof  is  supported  on  massive  pillars, 
from  which  spring  broad  circular  arches  of  the  earlier 
Norman  style,  ornamented  with  zigzag  mouldings  ;  the 
triforium  is  of  similar  character,  surmounted  by  a  range 
of  sharply-pointed  clerestory  windows  of  later  date. 
The  north  transept,  which  is  still  entire,  is  embellished 
with  windows  of  elegant  design,  highly  enriched  with 
tracery ;  and  the  principal  window  is  of  lofty  dimen- 
sions and  of  great  beaut}'.  The  south  transept,  the 
cloisters,  the  chapter-house,  and  other  conventual  build- 
ings, have  all  disappeared  ;  but  a  doorway,  forming  the 
south  entrance  to  the  church  from  the  cloisters,  is  still 
remaining,  an  almost  unrivalled  specimen  of  architec- 
tural beauty  and  elaborate  decoration.  On  the  south 
side  of  the  choir  is  a  chapel,  formerly  used  as  a  gram- 
mar school.  Places  of  worship  have  been  erected  for 
one  congregation  of  the  denomination  called  the  Relief, 
and  for  two  congregations  of  the  United  Secession ; 
the  meeting-houses  are  all  neat  buildings  of  stone. 
There  are  also  a  Free  Church  and  Episcopal  chapel. 

4  F  2 


J  E  D  B 


J  E  M  I 


The  United  Schools  of  Jedburgh,  consisting  of  the 
grammar  school  and  the  burgh  English  school,  united 
in  1804,  contain  about  150  children,  and  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  heritors  and  the  magistrates  of 
the  burgh,  by  whom  the  rector  is  appointed.  The  rec- 
tor receives  from  the  burgh  £21.  6.  S.,  and  £12  for  the 
English  school,  for  which  he  is  bound  to  keep  an  assist- 
ant ;  also  £S.  6.  8.  from  the  heritors,  making  a  salary 
of  £41.  13.  4.  The  school  fees  amount  on  the  average 
to  £120,  and  the  otferings  at  Candlemas  to  nearly  £30; 
the  rector  has  also  a  commodious  house  and  garden. 
The  parochial  schools  at  Lantern  and  Rink  are  well 
attended  ;  the  masters  are  allowed  by  the  heritors 
£11.2.  each.  There  is  also  a  school  endowed  by  the  Mar- 
quess of  Lothian.  The  town  has  two  religious  societies, 
one  for  the  diffusion  of  education,  and  the  other  for 
imparting  religious  knowledge;  they  are  supported  by 
subscriptions,  amounting  on  an  average  to  £15  per 
annum.  A  dispensary  was  founded  in  1807,  chiefly  by 
donations  from  the  Kerr  family,  and  is  maintained  by 
annual  subscriptions  :  a  commodious  house,  with  baths 
and  other  requisites,  was  erected  in  1 822,  by  the  then 
Marquess  of  Lothian.  The  number  of  patients,  who  are 
received  from  the  parishes  of  Jedburgh,  Ancrum,  Bed- 
rule,  Southdean,  Hobkirk,  Minto,  Oxnam,  and  Crailing, 
amounts  annually  to  about  220.  A  sum  of  money  aris- 
ing from  accumulated  legacies,  chiefly  by  Lady  Yes- 
ter,  of  Fernihirst,  is  vested  in  the  burgh  magistrates, 
producing  an  interest  of  £23,  appropriated  to  the 
education  of  poor  children,  and  to  the  relief  of  the  poor, 
for  whose  benefit  also  about  £40  are  annually  collected 
at  the  church. 

A  Roman  road,  crossing  the  Jed  and  the  Teviot  about 
half  a  mile  above  their  junction,  intersects  the  northern 
part  of  the  parish  within  two  miles  of  the  town  ;  it  is 
paved  with  whinstone,  and  in  a  state  of  good  preserva- 
tion. There  are  also  vestiges  of  an  ancient  road  lead- 
ing over  the  high  ground  from  Ancrum  bridge  to  the 
town.  Near  Monklaw  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman 
camp  about  160  yards  square;  and  there  are  traces  of 
camps  at  Howdean,  Swinnie,  Camptown,  and  Ferni- 
hirst, but  nearly  obliterated  by  the  progress  of  cultiva- 
tion. At  Lintalee  are  the  remains  of  an  encampment 
formed  by  Douglas,  for  the  defence  of  the  frontier, 
during  the  absence  of  Bruce  in  Ireland,  and  celebrated 
for  a  memorable  engagement  in  which  the  Earl  of  Rich- 
mond, who  had  invaded  Scotland  at  the  head  of  10,000 
men,  fell  in  a  personal  combat  with  Douglas  :  the  double 
rampart  by  which  it  was  defended  is  still  remaining. 
In  the  face  of  the  precipice  below  the  camp,  and  now 
inaccessible,  is  a  cavern  dug  in  the  rocky  bank  of  the 
river  Jed  ;  and  at  Hundalee  and  Mossburnford  are 
similar  caverns,  excavated  in  the  rock  as  places  of  re- 
fuge, and  for  the  concealment  of  property  during  the 
frequent  irruptions  of  the  English  borderers.  In  the 
year  1827,  many  Saxon  coins  of  silver,  chiefly  of  the 
reign  of  Ethelred,  and  one  of  the  reign  of  Canute,  were 
found  in  a  field  near  Bongate,  with  a  ring  formed  of 
silver  wire  ;  some  of  the  coins  are  at  present  in  the  pos- 
session of  Mr.  Bainbridge,  of  Gattonside,  but  most  of 
them  are  widely  dispersed.  Several  coins  of  the  reigns 
of  Edred,  Edwy,  Ethelred,  Edward  I.  and  III.,  and  of 
Henry  I.  and  II.,  have  been  also  found,  near  the  abbey 
bridge  ;  and  some  Roman  coins  are  said  to  have  been 
discovered  near  Stewartsfield.  A  horn  was  discovered 
5SS 


near  Swinnie  within  the  last  few  years,  containing  silver 
coins  of  James  V.  of  Scotland  ;  and  in  the  year  1S34, 
about  400  silver  coins  of  the  reigns  of  Henry  VIII., 
James  V.,  and  Mary,  were  ploughed  up  near  the  farm- 
house of  that  place.  A  silver  coin,  or  medal,  comme- 
morating the  marriage  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  with 
the  Dauphin  of  France,  was  not  long  since  found  at 
Larkhall.  On  one  side  are  combined  the  letters  F.  and 
M.,  surmounted  by  a  crown,  with  the  inscription,  Fecit 
vtraque  ununi  1 558  ;  on  the  other  are  the  arms  of  Scot- 
land impaled  with  those  of  the  Dauphin,  and  the  in- 
scription, Fran,  et  Ma.  D.  G.  R.  R.  Scotor.  D.  D.  Vien. 
Arrow-heads  of  flint  are  occasionally  dug  up  on  How- 
dean  moor,  which  is  reported  to  have  been  the  scene  of 
a  battle  ;  and  a  camp-kettle,  which  was  presented  to 
the  late  Sir  Walter  Scott  by  Mr.  Rutherford,  was  found 
some  years  since  at  Edgerston. 

In  IS!  5,  a  sarcophagus  of  stone,  formed  of  unhewn 
slabs,  four  feet  six  inches  in  length,  and  two  feet  six 
inches  in  breadth,  containing  a  large  urn  and  three  of 
smaller  size,  one  of  which  was  full  of  pure  water,  was 
found  in  a  garden  on  the  west  side  of  the  High-street. 
The  large  urn,  near  which  were  parts  of  skulls,  was  of 
very  elegant  form  ;  two  of  the  smaller  urns  crumbled 
into  dust  on  being  touched.    In  the  same  garden,  which 
is  in  some  records   called  the  Temple  Garden,  were  dis- 
covered the  foundations  of  ancient  buildings,  at  a  depth 
of  six  feet  below  the  surface.     A  trophy  taken  from  the 
English  at  the  battle  of  Bannockburn,  and  another  from 
the  Highlanders  at  Killiecrankie,  are  in  the  possession 
of  the  corporate  body  of  weavers  ;  and   another,  taken 
from  the  English  at  the  battle  of  Newburn,  in  that  of 
the  shoemakers.     The  inhabitants  of  Jedburgh,  and  of 
the   forest,  constantly  accustomed  to  warfare,  were  a 
brave  and  hardy  race  ;    and  their  valour  is  recorded  by 
the  Earl  of  Surrey,  in  his  despatches  to  Henry  VIII. 
respecting  the  storming  of  Jedburgh.     Their  favourite 
weapon  was  the  Jedworth  axe,  and  their  war-cry,  "Jed- 
worth's  here."    At  Tudhope,  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
town,   is  a   spring   strongly  impregnated  with  sulphur 
and  iron,  and  found  very  efficacious  in  scorbutic  disor- 
ders ;  there  are  chalybeate  springs  in  several  parts  of 
the  parish,  and  at  Gilliestongues  is  a  petrifying  spring. 
Among  the  eminent  persons   of  this  place  were  nume- 
rous abbots  of  Jedburgh,  successors  to   St.  Kennock, 
and  who  held  various  high  offices  of  trust  and  import- 
ance under  the  kings  of  Scotland,  and  were  greatly  dis- 
tinguished by  their  learning  and  talents.     Adam  Bell,  a 
brother  of  the  Carmelite  convent,  who  died  here,  was 
the  author  of  a  history  of  Scotland  from  the  earliest 
period  to  the  year  1535,  entitled  Rota  Temporum.    John 
Rutherford,  principal  of  St.  Salvator's  college,  St.  An- 
drew's, and  author  of  a  work  on  the  Art  of  Reasoning, 
was  a  native  of  the  town.     Samuel  Rutherford,  princi- 
pal of  St.  Mary's  college,  St.  Andrew's,  who  was  born 
in  an  adjoining  parish,  received  his   early  education  in 
the  grammar  school  of  Jedburgh,  as  did  also  the  poet 
Thomson  ;   and  among  other  distinguished  natives  may 
be  named  Andrew  Young,  regent  of  philosophy  in  the 
university  of  Edinburgh,  and  Sir  David  Brewster. 

JEMIMAVILLE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Kirk- 

michael,  or  Resolis,  county  of  Ross  and  Cromarty  ; 

containing  139  inhabitants.    It  is  one  of  three  very  small 

villages  in  the  parish,  and,  though  the  largest  of  them, 

-  consists  of  only  a  group  of  houses,  of  an  inferior  class. 


joiin 


John 


JOCK'S  LODGE,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  South 
Leith,  county  of  Edinbihigh,  1|  mile  (E.  by  S.)  from 
Edinburgh  ;  containing  449  inhabitants.  This  is  a  con- 
siderable, though  scattered,  village,  situated  on  the  south- 
ern border  of  the  parish,  and  on  the  road  from  Edinburgh 
to  Portobello  and  Musselburgh.  It  is  said  by  some  to 
have  had  its  eccentric  name  from  that  of  a  beggar  who, 
in  the  eighteenth  century,  inhabited  a  small  tenement 
on  the  spot ;  but  it  appears,  on  better  authority,  that 
the  village  was  called  Jock's  Lodge  in  Cromwell's  time. 
It  is  opposite  to  Piershill  cavalry  barracks,  which  were 
built  in  1793,  and  are  named  from  Colonel  Piers,  who 
commanded  a  regiment  stationed  at  Edinburgh  in  the 
reign  of  George  II.,  and  who  either  erected  or  rented  a 
villa  on  the  height  of  a  rising  ground  overlooking  Res- 
talrig,  now  occupied  by  the  officers'  apartments,  and 
called  Piershill.  On  the  right  hand  of  the  village  are 
many  neat  residences. 

JOHNSHAVEN,avillage,  in  the  parish  of  Benholme, 
county  of  Kincardine,  4  miles  (S.  W.  by  S.)  from 
Bervie  ;  containing  1 17*3  inhabitants.  This  place,  which 
comprises  the  principal  part  of  the  population  of  the 
parish,  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  fishermen  and  weavers, 
whose  houses  are  small  and  irregularly  built.  It  is 
situated  on  the  shore  of  the  German  Ocean,  close  to  a 
small  harbour  which  is  frequented  in  summer  by  coal 
sloops,  and  occasionally  by  vessels  freighted  with  lime. 
Off  the  coast,  fish  are  caught,  consisting  for  the  most 
part  of  cod,  haddocks,  and  turbot. 

JOHNSTONE,  a  parish,  in  the  county  of  Dumfries, 
9  miles  (S.  by  E.)  from  Moffat;  containing  107''  in- 
habitants. It  is  generally  supposed  that  the  name  of 
this  place  was  derived  from  some  ancient  and  important 
personage  of  the  name  of  John,  distinguished  either  by 
his  possessions  or  achievements,  and  to  whose  name  the 
ordinary  Saxon  termination  ton  or  toun  was  added.  The 
parish  from  time  immemorial  has  been  the  property  of 
the  family  of  the  Johnstones,  lairds  of  Annandale,  whose 
castle  of  Lochwood  was  situated  in  the  north  of  the 
parish,  and  almost  surrounded  by  impassable  bogs  and 
marshes.  This  fort,  which  was  a  place  of  great  strength, 
and  inaccessible  to  a  foe,  induced  James  VI.  to  declare, 
that  "he  who  built  Lochwood,  though  outwardly  an  honest 
man,  must  have  been  a  knave  at  heart."  About  the 
end  of  the  sixteenth  century,  it  was  burnt  by  Robert, 
natural  brother  to  Lord  John  Maxwell ;  in  revenge  for 
which  the  Johnstones,  who  were  a  warlike  tribe,  assisted 
by  the  famous  Buccleuch,  the  Elliots,  Armstrongs,  and 
Grahams,  the  bravest  of  the  warriors  of  the  Scottish 
border,  attacked  and  cut  to  pieces  a  party  of  the  Max- 
wells, near  Lochmaben,  where  the  incendiary  himself, 
Robert,  was  among  the  number  of  the  slain.  Those 
who  escaped  taking  refuge  in  the  church  of  Lochmaben, 
the  sacred  edifice  was  burnt  to  ashes  by  the  Johnstones. 
This  rash  and  sacrilegious  act  occasioned  the  memorable 
battle  of  Dryfesands,  in  which  the  Johnstones  finally 
prevailed,  Lord  Maxwell  being  attacked  behind  and  slain 
by  "Will  of  Kirkhill,"  while  engaged  in  single  combat 
with  Lord  Johnstone. 

The  parish  is  situated  in  that  part  of  Dumfriesshire 
known  by  the  name  of  Annandale,  and  comprehends  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  old  parishes  of  Garvald  and 
Dumgree  ;  it  is  six  miles  in  length,  and  averages  three 
in  breadth.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parish  of 
Kirkpatrick  Juxta ;  and  on  the  east  by  Applegarth  and 
5S9 


Wamphray,  from  both  which  it  is  separated  by  the  river 
Annan.  On  the  south,  at  a  narrow  point  of  about  a 
mile,  forming  the  vertex  of  its  triangular  figure,  is  the 
parish  of  Lochmaben  ;  and  011  the  south-west,  the  river 
Kinnel  divides  it  from  Kirkmichael  parish.  The  country 
is  generally  flat  with  a  gradual  ascent  towards  the  west. 
A  large  proportion  of  the  surface  is  stony,  supplying 
great  facilities  for  filling  those  thorough  drains  that  have 
been  cut  to  so  very  considerable  an  extent  of  late. 
The  whole  lies  between  the  rivers  Annan  and  Kin- 
nel, with  the  exception  of  2000  or  3000  acres  to  the 
west,  of  the  latter  stream,  which  rise,  in  their  ascent 
towards  Nithsdale,  about  1200  or  1500  feet.  The  two 
rivers  form  a  junction  two  miles  below  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  parish.  The  Annan  abounds  with  yel- 
low and  sea  trout,  as  well  as  eels  and  salmon.  Its 
banks  are  subject,  in  rainy  and  snowy  seasons,  to  violent 
inundations,  from  which  great  mischief  has  arisen  to 
the  crops  :  two  of  the  most  remarkable  floods  were  in 
August  17S2,  and  in  August,  September,  and  October, 
1790. 

The  soil  of  the  flat  alluvial  land  along  the  Annan  is 
a  dry  loam  or  gravel :  in  the  other  parts  it  is  chiefly  a 
light  loam,  resting  on  gravel  or  rock,  or  a  moorish  soil 
lying  upon  a  retentive  clay  or  till.  There  are  several 
peat-mosses,  extending  to  some  hundreds  of  acres.  Be- 
tween 5000  and  6000  acres  are  under  tillage ;  about 
5000  are  uncultivated,  or  in  natural  pasture  ;  from  500 
to  1000,  which  have  never  been  ploughed,  are  considered 
capable  of  cultivation  ;  and  1500  are  under  plantations 
or  natural  wood.  Wheat  was  not  very  long  since  un- 
known in  this  district,  as  a  part  of  the  produce  ;  but  it 
is  now  cultivated  in  a  slight  degree,  with  all  other  kinds 
of  grain  ;  and  the  green  crops,  of  which  turnips  and 
potatoes  are  the  principal,  are  abundant  and  of  good 
quality.  The  most  improved  system  of  husbandry  has 
been  for  some  time  adopted,  and  within  the  last  half 
century  the  aspect  of  the  parish  has  been  entirely 
changed  by  the  construction  of  roads,  the  formation  of 
inclosures,  and  especially  by  the  number  of  comfortable 
dwellings  erected  for  the  accommodation  of  the  labouring 
classes.  There  are  two  sheep-farms,  on  which  the  stock 
consists  partly  of  the  native  black-faced,  and  partly  of 
the  Cheviots.  The  cows  are  the  Galloway,  except  upon 
two  or  three  dairy-farms,  where  they  are  entirely  of  the 
pure  Ayrshire  breed.  Great  attention  has  been  paid  to  the 
improvement  of  cattle  ;  and  the  farmers  have,  in  several 
instances,  obtained  premiums  from  the  Annandale  Agri- 
cultural Society. 

The  plantations  receive  much  care.  They  were  greatly 
increased  nearly  half  a  century  ago  by  the  Earl  of 
Hopetoun,  at  which  time  a  large  quantity  of  Scotch  firs, 
interspersed  with  larch  and  spruce,  were  added  to  the 
former  stock.  About  a  dozen  of  fallow-deer,  in  the 
year  17S0,  were  put  into  an  inclosure  opposite  the  house 
of  Raehills,  and  after  a  while  broke  loose,  and  esta- 
blished themselves  among  these  extensive  plantations. 
Since  that  time  no  one  has  been  able  to  capture  or  con- 
troul  them  ;  and  they  are  now  increased  to  the  number, 
as  is  supposed,  of  about  250.  The  rocks  in  the  district 
consist  of  red  sandstone  and  whinstone,  the  latter  of 
which  varies  much  in  its  fineness  and  consistence.  At- 
tempts have  been  made  to  discover  a  vein  of  lead-ore, 
the  existence  of  which  seemed  to  be  indicated  by  the 
several  portions  occasionally  found  above  the  surface ; 


JOHN 


JOHN 


but  the  expected  success  has  not  attended  the  under- 
taking. The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£4408.  The  mansion-house  of  Raehills,  the  seat  of 
J.  J.  Hope  Johnstone,  Esq.,  descendant  of  the  earls  of 
Hopetoun,  was  principally  built  by  James,  third  earl, 
grandfather  of  the  present  possessor,  in  the  year  17S6  ; 
and  is  a  castellated  edifice,  of  the  old  baronial  style 
which  prevailed  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  A  large 
addition,  fronting  the  south,  and  containing  an  elegant 
suite  of  apartments,  has  lately  been  erected,  constituting 
it  one  of  the  most  splendid  and  imposing  mansions  in 
the  south  of  Scotland. 

This  is  entirely  an  agricultural  parish,  and  the  popu- 
lation are  scattered.  Considerable  attention  is  paid  by 
them  to  the  rearing  of  pigs,  which  are  considered  the 
staple  commodity.  Large  quantities  are  converted  into 
hams  and  flitches,  and  sent  to  Newcastle,  Shields,  and 
Sunderland,  whence  a  great  proportion  is  shipped  for 
the  London  market.  The  road  from  London  to  Glasgow, 
by  Carlisle,  passes  for  five  miles  through  the  parish  ; 
and  that  from  Dumfries  to  Edinburgh,  by  Moffat,  for 
the  same  distance.  A  turnpike-road  from  Moffat  to  Loch- 
maben  and  Annan  runs  for  six  miles,  from  north  to 
south,  nearly  through  its  centre.  The  London  and 
Glasgow,  and  Edinburgh  and  Dumfries,  mails  travel  on 
these  roads.  There  is  a  bridge  over  the  Kinnel  at  St. 
Ann's,  and  one  across  the  Annan  at  Johnstone  Mills, 
besides  several  over  the  smaller  streams  :  all  these,  with 
the  roads,  are  kept  in  good  repair.  The  ecclesiasti- 
cal affairs  are  subject  to  the  presbytery  of  Lochmaben 
and  synod  of  Dumfries ;  patron,  Mr.  Johnstone.  There 
is  a  good  manse,  with  a  glebe  of  ten  acres,  worth  about 
20s.  per  acre  :  the  stipend  is  £165.  13.  The  church, 
which  is  inconveniently  situated,  on  the  eastern  extre- 
mity of  the  parish,  was  built  in  1733,  and  rebuilt  and 
enlarged  in  1818,  and  is  now  a  comfortable  and  com- 
modious edifice.  There  is  a  parochial  school,  where 
Latin,  Greek,  and  French  are  taught,  with  all  the  usual 
branches  of  education.  The  master  has  the  maximum 
salary,  with  the  fees,  which  average  about  £21  per 
annum,  and  £3  received  from  a  bequest  left  for  his 
benefit  by  Mr.  Aitkin,  farmer,  of  Kirkbank  :  he  has  also 
the  legal  allowance  of  land.  There  are  two  other  schools, 
of  which  the  teacher  at  Goodhope  receives  £16  a  year 
from  the  patron  of  the  parish,  with  about  £10  fees  :  the 
master  of  the  school  of  Cogrieburn-bridge  has  an  in- 
come of  £10,  independently  of  the  fees.  The  parochial 
library,  now  consisting  of  300  volumes,  was  established 
in  1828.  There  was  once  also  a  farming  society,  founded 
in  1S18,  which  proved  beneficial  in  supplying  a  stimu- 
lus to  improvements  in  husbandry,  especially  in  the 
breeding  and  rearing  of  cattle.  Among  the  relics  of 
antiquity  is  a  small  barrow,  or  tumulus,  near  the  farm 
of  Crawknowes,  said  to  mark  the  spot  where  the  Laird 
of  Lochwood,  in  a  private  quarrel,  shot  the  Laird  of 
Dumgree,  whose  body  he  afterwards  hid  in  the  earth. 
The  only  other  memorial  of  antiquity  is  the  old  castle 
of  Lochwood,  supposed  to  have  been  built  during  the 
fourteenth  century.  Dr.  Matthew  Halliday,  physician 
to  the  Empress  Catherine  of  Russia,  and  Dr.  John  Ro- 
gerson,  who  succeeded  him  in  that  station,  were  born  in 
the  parish  of  Johnstone ;  the  latter  died  about  fifteen 
years  since. 

JOHNSTONE,  a  village,  or  rather  a  manufacturing 
town,  and  lately  a  quoad   sacra  parish,  in  the  Abbey 
590 


parish  of  Paisley,  Upper  ward  of  the  county  of  Ren- 
frew, 3^  miles  (W.  by  S.)  from  Paisley ;  containing 
5824  inhabitants.  This  place,  which,  about  sixty  years 
since,  consisted  merely  of  a  few  scattered  cottages,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  river  Black  Cart,  over  which 
is  a  bridge,  from  which  it  derived  its  former  name.  It 
is  indebted  for  its  rise,  and  subsequent  rapid  increase, 
to  the  introduction  of  the  manufacture  of  cotton-yarn, 
and  to  the  encouragement  given  by  its  spirited  pro- 
prietor, Mr.  Houston,  who  granted  leases  of  land  for 
the  erection  of  dwelling-houses,  and  for  the  numerous 
spacious  works  which  have  been  since  opened.  The 
increase  of  the  place  both  in  population  and  manu- 
facturing importance  has  been  unrivalled  in  the  history 
of  any  other  place  in  Scotland.  In  1781,  when  the 
lands  were  first  leased,  it  contained  only  ten  inhabitants  : 
in  1792,  the  number  had  augmented  to  1434  ;  in  1811, 
to  3647  ;  and  in  1831,  to  5617-  The  town  is  regularly 
built,  consisting  of  Houston-square,  nearly  in  the 
centre  j  a  spacious  market-place  ;  and  numerous  hand- 
some streets  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles. 
The  houses  are  of  stone,  and  to  each  is  attached  an 
adequate  portion  of  garden  ground  ;  the  inhabitants 
are  amply  supplied  with  water,  and  the  streets  are  well 
lighted  with  gas.  Assembly-rooms  have  been  erected  ; 
a  lodge  of  freemasons  has  been  instituted  ;  numerous 
excellent  shops  furnish  every  thing  requisite  for  the 
supply  of  the  inhabitants  ;  circulating  libraries  are  kept 
by  the  various  booksellers  ;  a  post-office  with  two  daily 
deliveries  has  been  established  ;  and  in  almost  every 
respect  the  town  may  be  said  to  be  improving. 

The  population  are  chiefly  employed  in  the  cotton 
trade,  for  which  there  are  numerous  mills  in  the  town 
and  immediate  vicinity.  Two  of  these  are  propelled  by 
water,  and  the  others  by  steam-power  ;  they  contain  in 
the  aggregate  90,000  spindles.  The  capital  employed 
in  their  erection,  and  in  keeping  them  in  operation,  is 
estimated  at  £135,000;  and  they  afford  constant  occu- 
pation to  more  than  2500  persons.  An  extensive  factory, 
also,  has  been  erected  for  weaving  cloth  by  machinery. 
There  are  two  iron  and  two  brass  foundries,  and  some 
factories  for  the  manufacture  of  machinery  of  all  kinds, 
in  which  steam-engines  are  used  of  the  aggregate  power 
of  26  horses,  and  which  afford  employment  to  120 
persons.  As  many  as  three  branch  banks  have  been 
established  here.  The  village  is  well  stocked  with  every 
kind  of  provisions ;  and  fairs  are  annually  held  on  the 
Thursday  after  the  second  Monday  in  July,  and  the  last 
Thursday  in  December,  for  cattle.  The  Glasgow,  Paisley, 
and  Ardrossan  canal,  which  commences  at  Port-Eglin- 
ton,  near  Glasgow,  and  passes  Paisley,  is  completed  only 
to  this  place,  a  distance  of  eleven  miles  free  of  lockage  ; 
it  is  28  feet  broad  at  the  top,  14  at  the  bottom,  and  4§ 
feet  in  depth,  and  cost  nearly  £100,000.  The  navigation 
was  opened  in  1811,  and  light  iron  passage-boats  were 
established  in  1831  ;  but,  by  a  recent  arrangement  with 
the  Ayrshire  and  Greenock  Railway  Companies,  the  con- 
veyance of  passengers  is  to  be  discontinued  for  twenty- 
one  years,  and  the  traffic  confined  to  heavy  goods,  of  which 
68,063  tons  were  carried  in  the  year  ending  30th  Sept., 
1844.  The  canal  terminates  in  a  basin  at  one  extremity 
of  the  town;  and  adjoining  the  wharf,  is  a  yard  for 
landing  the  stone  from  the  Nitshill  quarry.  The  magis- 
trates hold  a  petty-session  in  the  assembly-rooms  on 
the  first  Friday  in  every  month.     A  church  was  erected 


JURA 


JURA 


here  in  1793,  at  a  cost  of  £1400  ;  it  contains  995  sittings, 
and  is  a  handsome  octagonal  edifice,  with  a  very  light 
and  elegant  spire,  built  in  imitation  of  the  spire  of 
Lincoln  designed  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  but  on  a 
smaller  scale.  It  forms  a  strikingly  interesting  object  as 
seen  from  the  road  to  Paisley,  and  gives  to  the  town 
a  very  pleasing  appearance.  The  ecclesiastical  affairs 
are  under  the  presbytery  of  Paisley  and  synod  of  Glasgow 
and  Ayr,  and  the  patronage  is  vested  in  the  Congregation  ; 
the  stipend  of  the  minister  is  £150,  arising  from  seat- 
rents  and  collections,  and  part  of  the  amount  is  secured 
by  bond.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  members  of 
the  Free  Church,  the  United  Secession,  Relief,  and 
United  Methodists  ;  the  first  a  fine  building. 

JOPPA,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of  Coylton,  district 
of  Kyle,  county  of  Ayr,  3^  miles  (S.  E.  by  E.)  from  Ayr; 
containing  16S  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  road 
from  Ayr  to  Coylton,  a  short  distance  westward  of  the 
Coyl  water,  and  is  regarded  as  the  principal  village  in 
the  parish,  the  others  being  chiefly  groups  of  cottages. 
There  is  a  Sabbath  school  here ;  also  a  private  school, 
attended  by  about  fifty  children,  and  of  which  the  teacher 
has  a  rent-free  schoolroom. 

JOPPA,  a  village,  in  that  part  of  the  parish  of  Dud- 
dingston,  county  of  Edinburgh,  which  formed  the 
late  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Portobello,  |  a  mile  (E.  S.  E.) 
from  Portobello  ;  containing  275  inhabitants.  This  is  a 
modern  and  neat  village,  situated  on  the  sea-side,  and 
on  the  great  road  between  Edinburgh  and  Musselburgh. 
It  may  be  said  to  form  a  suburb  of  the  large  and  fashion- 
able village  of  Portobello,  which  is  visited,  on  account 
of  its  excellent  beach,  and  its  proximity  to  Edinburgh, 
as  a  bathing-place  in  the  summer  season.  In  the  vicinity 
are  some  handsome  villas. 

JUNIPER -GREEN,  a  village,  in  the  parish  of 
Colinton,  county  of  Edinburgh,  If-  mile  (W.  by  S.) 
from  Colinton  ;  containing  325  inhabitants.  It  lies  on 
the  high  road  from  Currie  to  Edinburgh,  and  in  the 
western  extremity  of  the  parish.  It  is  one  of  the  five 
principal  villages  of  Colinton  ;   and  has  a  small  school. 

JURA  and  COLONSAY,  a  parish,  in  the  district  of 
Islay,  county  of  Argyll  ;  containing  2299  inhabitants. 
This  parish,  which  is  situated  to  the  west  of  the  main 
land,  comprises  the  islands  of  Jura,  Colonsay,  Oronsay, 
Scarba,'Lunga,  Balnahuaigh,  and  Garvelloch,  and  several 
small  uninhabited  islets.  The  island  of  Jura,  takes  its 
name  from  the  numerous  herds  of  red-deer  with  which 
it  abounded,  and  of  which  many  are  still  preserved.  It 
is  separated  from  the  main  land  by  the  sound  of  Jura, 
which  forms  its  eastern  boundary  ;  and  from  the  isle 
of  Islay,  by  the  sound  of  that  name,  which  bounds  it 
on  the  south  :  on  the  west  is  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It  is 
about  thirty-six  miles  in  extreme  length,  and  varies  from 
two  to  nearly  eight  miles  in  breadth  ;  the  number  of  acres 
has  not  been  ascertained.  The  surface  is  rugged,  and 
broken  by  mountains  of  conical  form,  of  which  the 
three  principal,  called  the  Paps  of  Jura,  are,  Beinn-a- 
Chaolais,  Beinn-an-Oir,  and  Beinn-Shianta.  These 
mountains,  of  which  the  highest,  Beinn-an-Oir,  has  an 
elevation  of  2700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  form 
a  conspicuous  landmark  for  mariners  ;  they  are  seen 
from  a  great  distance,  and  are  the  first  points  discovered 
by  vessels  navigating  the  Atlantic. 

%,  The    coast   is   rocky  and   precipitous,  and    in   many 
places    perforated  with   deep   caverns,    some  of  which 
591 


afford  secure  shelter.  Of  these,  the  most  remarkable  is 
Uaglilainaidi,  on  the  western  coast,  of  which  the  entrance 
is  thirty-eight  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  at  high  tides, 
and  thirty-three  feet  in  height.  The  interior  has  an  area 
of  1312  square  yards  ;  the  floor  is  smooth,  and  the  roof 
beautifully  arched.  So  perfectly  is  this  cavern  protected, 
that,  during  the  severest  storms,  scarcely  a  breath  of  wind 
is  felt  within  it.  There  are  numerous  moorland  lakes, 
of  which  several  abound  with  trout  ;  and  from  them  issue 
various  streams,  which,  in  their  course  towards  the  sea, 
form  considerable  rivers,  wherein  trout  and  salmon  are 
found.  Of  these  rivers,  the  largest  are,  the  Knockbreck, 
on  which  the  proprietor,  Mr.  Campbell,  has  a  salmon- 
fishery,  and  the  Avin  Lussa,  in  the  north  of  the  island  : 
the  river  Corran  has  its  source  in  some  springs  issuing 
from  the  mountains,  and,  flowing  eastward,  receives 
different  tributaries  in  its  course,  and  falls  into  the 
sound  of  Jura  near  Corran  House.  The  shore  on  the 
west  is  deeply  indented  by  Loch  Tarbel,  an  inlet  from 
the  sea,  which  almost  divides  the  island  into  two  parts  ; 
and  on  the  eastern  shore  are  several  bays,  of  which 
Lowland  Day  and  the  bay  of  Small  Isles  constitute 
commodious  harbours.  The  former,  two  miles  and 
a  half  in  circumference,  has  an  entrance  570  yards 
in  width,  and  is  from  five  to  six  fathoms  in  depth ;  the 
latter,  which  is  more  capacious,  is  formed  by  three  small 
islands,  ranging  in  a  line  nearly  parallel  with  the  coast, 
and  between  which  are  the  entrances. 

The  soil  in  the  east  of  the  island,  in  which  direction 
nearly  the  whole  population  resides,  is  stony  and  shal- 
low along  the  shore,  but  on  the  acclivities,  where  most 
of  the  arable  land  is  situated,  of  better  quality.  The 
crops  are,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  a  little  flax  ;  the 
system  of  agriculture  has  been  improved  ;  much  of 
the  land  has  been  drained,  and  some  tracts  of  moss 
have  been  brought  into  cultivation.  The  farm-buildings 
are  commodious  ;  and  the  lands  have  been  inclosed, 
partly  with  stone  dykes,  and  partly  with  hedges  of 
thorn.  The  cattle,  of  which  about  1200  are  annually 
sold,  are  of  the  native  black  breed  :  the  sheep,  of  which, 
also,  great  numbers  are  reared  in  the  pastures,  are 
generally  the  black-faced,  with  some  of  the  Cheviots, 
which  are  increasing  in  number.  The  prevailing  rocks 
are  of  the  primitive  formation,  and  the  substrata  chiefly 
mica-slate,  trap,  and  whinstone  :  slate  was  formerly 
quarried.  The  rateable  annual  value  of  the  parish  is 
£5761.  The  mansions  are,  Jura  House,  the  seat  of 
the  principal  proprietor,  a  spacious  residence,  to  which 
splendid  additions  have  been  recently  made ;  and 
Ardlussa,  also  a  handsome  mansion,  beautifully  situated, 
and  surrounded  with  plantations.  The  only  village 
is  Miltown,  which  includes  Craighouse ;  the  inhabitants 
are  chiefly  employed  in  weaving,  and  in  the  various 
handicraft  trades  requisite  for  the  supply  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood. There  is  a  neat  inn  at  Craighouse,  which 
has  been  rebuilt  and  enlarged.  A  distillery  has  been 
erected,  which  produces  about  700  gallons  of  whisky 
per  week^j  and  there  is  likewise  a  good  corn-mill,  from 
which  the  village  takes  its  name.  Facility  of  inter- 
course is  afforded  by  several  roads  and  bridges,  and  by 
three  ferries,  on  which  are  staiths  for  the  shipping  of 
cattle  :  the  ferry  at  Kenuachdrach  communicates  with 
Craignish  ;  that  of  Lagg  with  North  Knapdale,  and 
the  ferry  of  Feoline  with  Portaskaig.  From  Feoline 
to  Lagg,  a  distance  of  seventeen  miles,  a  government  road 


J  UK  A 


JURA 


has  been  formed,  which  adds  greatly  to  the  means 
of  intercourse  ;  and  at  the  latter  place  is  a  sub-office, 
at  which  the  London,  Edinburgh,  and  Glasgow  mails 
are  received  from  Islay. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  presbytery  of  Islay  and  Jura,  and 
synod  of  Argyll.  The  minister's  stipend  is  £200, 
charged  with  the  payment  of  £50  to  an  assistant  at 
Colonsay ;  he  has  a  manse,  and  a  glebe  valued  at  £12 
per  annum  :  patron,  the  Duke  of  Argyll.  The  church, 
erected  about  the  year  1/76,  is  a  neat  plain  structure; 
the  interior  has  been  enlarged  and  greatly  improved 
by  Mr.  Campbell,  and  contains  250  sittings,  all  of 
which  are  free.  In  the  old  churchyard  is  an  elegant 
mausoleum  for  the  Campbell  family.  There  are  two 
schools  in  Jura,  and  one  in  Colonsay,  among  the  three 
masters  of  which  the  parochial  salary  of  £34  is  equally 
divided,  the  deficiency  being  made  good  by  Mr.  Camp- 


bell, who  has  ei'ected  two  commodious  schoolrooms, 
with  good  houses  for  the  two  masters,  to  each  of  whom 
he  gives  a  garden  and  a  small  portion  of  land.  Two 
other  schools  are  supported  by  the  Society  for  Pro- 
pagating Christian  Knowledge,  of  which  one  is  at 
Colonsay.  The  sick  poor  are  admissible  to  the  infirmary 
and  asylum  of  Glasgow,  through  the  liberality  of  Mr. 
Campbell.  Stones  of  vast  dimensions  are  found  along 
the  shores,  and  in  other  places  ;  they  are  supposed  to 
have  fallen  from  the  erect  position  in  which  they  were 
originally  raised  in  commemoration,  it  is  said,  of  ancient 
battles.  There  are  also  the  ruins  of  many  chapels  of 
early  date.  In  digging  the  foundation  for  an  inn  at 
Lagg,  several  stone  coffins  were  found  ;  and  in  forming 
the  road  from  Feoline  to  Lagg,  numerous  urns,  con- 
taining ashes,  were  discovered.  Silver  coins  of  the 
reign  of  Charles  I.,  also,  were  found  many  years  since. — 
See  Colonsay,  &c. 


END  OF  VOL.  I. 


592 


Gilbert  and  Rivington,  Printers,  St.  John  Square,  London. 


INDEX 


PLACES    DESCRIBED    IN    THE    WORK, 


WHETHER 


UNDER  THEIR  OWN  HEADS,  OR  INCIDENTALLY: 


EMBRACING    THE 


MOUNTAINS,  HILLS,  LAKES,  RIVERS,  HEADLANDS,  SEATS,  ANTIQUITIES,  &c. 


Vol.  I.— 593  4  G 


INDEX. 


***  Those  places  which  are  described  in  the  Work  under  their  own  heads,  are  denoted  by  Small  Capitals. 


ABBETHUNE,  seat,  St.  Vigean's,  ii.  587. 

Abbey,  district,  in  Arbroath,  i.  58. 

Abbey,  Stirling.  See  Cambuskenneth,  and 
Logie. 

Abbey  Burn,  Dundrennan,  i.  321. 

Abbey-Craig  Hill,  Logie,  ii.  205,  206. 

Abbey-Green,  village,  in  Lesmahago,  La- 
nark, i.  1. 

Abbey  Mill  of  Blacklaw,  Bendochy,  i.  117. 

Abbey  Parish,  Renfrew.     See  Paisley. 

Abbey  Park,  Paisley,  ii.  338. 

Abbey  St.  Bathan's,  Berwick.  See  Ba- 
than's,  St. 

Abbeytown,  bridge,  in  Airth,  Stirling,  i.  35. 

Abbotrule,  lands,  Roxburgh,  i.  543.  ii.  476. 

Abbotsford,  seat,  Melrose,  ii.  246. 

Abbotshall,  parish,  Fife,  i.  1. 

Abbotshaugh,  Grangemouth,  i.  518. 

Abbot's  Isle,  Ardchattan,  ii.  288. 

Abbot's  Yard,  Kirkoswald,  ii.  120. 

Abb's  Head,  St.,  Berwickshire,  i.  91,  208. 

Abden,  mansion,  Kinghorn,  ii.  76. 

Abbie,  parish,  Fife,  i.  2. 

Aberarder,  house,  Daviot,  i.  274. 

Aberbrothock,  Forfarshire.    See  Arbroath. 

Abercairney,  lands,  Fowlis  Wester,  i.  453, 
454. 

Aberchalder,  Wester,  i.  273. 

Aberchirder,  village,  in  Marnock,  Banff,  i. 
3.  ii.  232. 

Abercorn,  parish,  Linlithgow,  i.  3. 

Abercrombie,  parish,  Fife,  i.  5. 

Aberdalgie  and  Dupplin,  parish,  Perth, 
i.  5. 

Aberdargie,  village,  in  Abernethy,  Perth, 
i.  6,  30. 

ABERDEEN,  city,  history  of,  i.  6  ;  descrip- 
tion of,  10  ;  libraries  and  public  institu- 
tions, 11  ;  manufactures,  12  ;  trade  and 
harbour,  13  ;  markets,  14  ;  local  govern- 
ment, 15;  Marischal  College,  16;  pa- 
rishes, 17  ;  schools  and  charities,  17  ; 
eminent  natives,  19. — Bell's  bequest,  47. 

ABERDEEN,  OLD,  city,  history  of,  i.  19  ; 
description,  19  ;  King's  College,  20  ;  pa- 
rish, church,  schools,  &c.  21. 

Aberdeen  Canal  described,  i.  14. 

ABERDEENSHIRE,  county,  i.  21. 

Aberdona,  Clackmannan,  i.  199. 

Aberbour,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  22. 

Aberdour,  parish,  Fife,  i.  23. 
595 


Aberdour,  New,  village,  in  Aberdour,  i.  22, 

23. 
Aberfeldy,  village,  Perth,  i.  24,  301. 
Aberpoyle,  parish,  Perth,  i.  24. 
Abergeldie,  house,  in  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Aberiachan,  burn,  Urquhart,  ii.  582. 
Aberkerber,  Banff.     See  Aberchirder. 
Aberlady,  parish,  Haddington,  i.  25. 
Aberlemno,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  26. 
Aberlour,  parish,  Banff,  i.  27- 
Aberluthnott,  Marykirk,  ii.  235. 
Aber-Milk,  St.  Mungo,  ii.  293. 
Abernethy,  parish,  Fife  and  Perth,  i.  28. 
Abernethy,  parish,  Inverness  and  Elgin, 

i.  28. 
Abernyte,  parish,  Perth,  i.  30. 
Abertarpf.     See  Boleskine  and  Abertarff. 
Aberuchill,  mansion,  Comrie,  i.  216. 
Aberuthven,  ancient  parish,  Perth,  i.  77- 
Abington,  village,  in  Crawfordjohn,  Lanark, 

i.  31,  231. 
Aboon  the  Brae,  spring,  Neilston,  ii.  300. 
Aboyne  and  Glentanner,  parish,  Aberdeen, 

i.  31. 
Aboyne  Castle,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  32. 
Achadashenag  House,  Kilninian   and  Kil- 

more,  ii.  55. 
Achalick,  bay,  Kilfinan,  ii.  31. 
Achall,  loch,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Achallader,  castle,  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 
Achantiobairt,  in  Iuverary,  i.  567. 
Acharacle.     See  Aharacle. 
Acharn,  hamlet,  in  Kenmore,  Perth,  i.  32, 

ii.  12. 
Achenreoch,  lake,  Urr,  ii.  585. 
Achilty,  Loch,  Coutin,  i.  216. 
Achincass,  castle,  Kirkpatrick-Juxta,  Dum- 
friesshire, ii.  125. 
Achindarroch,   mansion,  South   Knapdale, 

Argyllshire,  ii.  1 34. 
Achinduin,     castle,    Lismore    and   Appin, 

Argyllshire,  ii.  190. 
Achingahan,  lands,  Luss.  ii.  222. 
Achnaba,  mansion,  Lochgilphead,  ii.  195. 
Achnacarry,  seat,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 
Achnacloich,  loch,  Rosskeen,  ii.  431. 
Achnacone,  mansion,  Lismore  and  Appin, 

ii.  190. 
Achnacroish,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189. 
Achnacroish,  house,  Torosay,  ii.  552. 
Achness,  in  Farr,  i.  418. 
Achnuallan,  in  Arderseir,  Inverness,  i.  64. 
Achoish,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  135. 


Achrannie,  Slug  of,  cascade,  Lintrathen,  ii. 

187. 
Achray,  lake,  Perthshire,  ii.  366. 
Achronie,  hill,  Kinnellar,  ii.  85. 
Ackergill,  hamlet,  in  Wick,  Caithness,  i. 

32,  ii.  611. 
Ad,  river,  Kilmichael-Glassary,  ii.  47- 
Adamhill,  in  Tarbolton,  ii.  531. 
Adam's  Castle,  Kinneff,  ii.  84. 
Adamsrow,  village,  in  Newton,  Edinburgh, 

i.  32. 
Adamstown,  moor,  in  Auchterhouse,  i.  80. 
Adamtown,  seat,  Monkton  and  Prestwick, 

ii.  271. 
Adder  Law,  hill,  Applegarth,  i.  55. 
Aden,  estate,  Old  Deer,  i.  276. 
Admiston,  East  and  West,  houses,  Glads- 

muir,  i.  476. 
Advie,  old  parish,  Inverness,  i.  239. 
Ae,  Water  of,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  117  ;  Loch- 

maben,  198  ;  Tinwald,  543. 
Aen,  river,  Strachan,  ii.  504. 
Affleck  Castle,  Monikie,  ii.  265. 
Affric,  loch,  Kilmorack,  ii.  49  ;  Kiltarlity ,  63. 
Afton,  stream,  tributary  to  the  Nith,  i.  32, 

253. 
Afton-Bribgend,  in  New  Cumnock,  Ayr,  i. 

32. 
Afton  Lodge,  Tarbolton,  ii.  530. 
Agabatha,  fort,  Collessie,  i.  213. 
Aharacle,  late  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  Ard- 

namurchan,  i.  32. 
Aich,  mountain,  Luss,  ii.  222. 
Aigas,  house,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  64. 
Aigash,  isle,  in  Kiltarlity,  Inverness,  i.  32. 
Aikenhead,  house,  Cathcart,  i.  192. 
Aikenway,  estate,  Rothes,  ii.  432. 
Aiket  Castle,  in  Dunlop,  i.  333. 
Aikey  Brae,  near  Old  Deer,  i.  275,  276. 
Aikrigill,  Wick,  county  Caithness,  i.  32. 
Ailsa,  isle,  belonging  to  Dailly,  Ayr,  i.  32. 
Ainart,  Loch,  Ardnamurchan,  Argyll,  i.  65. 
Aird,  hamlet,  in  Inch,  Wigton,  i.  33. 
Airdit,  hill,  Leuchars,  ii.  174. 
Airdlamont,  Kilfinan,  ii.  31,  32. 
Aird-Linn,  in  Tynron,  i.  570. 
Airdmeanaeh,  in  Kilfinichen  and  Kilviceu- 

en,  ii.  32,  33. 
Airdniskich,  headland,  Farr,  i.  418. 
Aird  Point,  Inverness-shire,  i.  39. 
Airdrie,  house,  Crail,  i.  226. 
AIRDRIE,  town,   in  New  Monkland,  La- 
nark, i.  33. 

4  G2 


INDEX. 


Airdrie  House,  New  Monkland,  ii.  268. 
Airds  Bay,   Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189  ; 

House,  ii.  190. 
Aird's  Bay,  Ardchattan,  ii.  288. 
Aird's  Moss,  Auchinleck,  i.  75. 
Airi-Innis,  lake,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Airlie,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  33. 
Airlie  Castle,  in  Airlie  parish,  i.  34. 
Airlywight  House,  Auchtergaven,  i.  79. 
Airntullv,  village,  in  Kinclaven,  Perth,  i. 

34. 
Airs  of  Selivoe,  in  Sandsthig  and  Aithsting, 

county  of  Shetland,  ii.  450. 
Airth,  parish,  Stirling,  i.  34. 
Airth  Castle,  in  Airth  parish,  i.  34,  35. 
Airthrey,  mineral  spring,  near  Bridge  of 

Allan,  i.  36. 
Airthrey  Castle,  Logie,  ii.  205. 
Aite  Suidlie  Fhin,  eminence,  Portree,  ii.  389. 
Aith,  hay,  in  Fetlar,  i.  423,  424. 
Aithsness,  in  Fetlar,  Shetland,  i.  424. 
Aithsting,  Shetland.     See  Saiidstiiig  mid 

Aitlisting. 
Aith's  Voe,  in  Sandsting  and  Aithsting,  ii. 

450. 
Aitnach  Craig,  in  Dairy,  i.  267. 
Alauna,  Lecropt,  ii.  1 59. 
Albie  Thorn,  in  Applegarth,  Dumfries,  i.  55. 
Albin,  Glen  of,  Inverness,  i.  576. 
Albion,  Glasgow,  late  quoad  sacra  parish,  i. 

496. 
Alcaig,  Urquhart  and  Logie  Wester,  ii.  584. 
Alcluyd,  Dumbartonshire,  i.  302. 
Aldernie,  stream,  Boharm,  i.  138. 
Alderston,  house,  Haddington,  i.  528. 
Aldhame,   ancient   parish,   Haddington,  ii. 

604. 
Aldhouse,  village,  in   East   Kilbride,  La- 
nark, i.  35,  ii.  23. 
Aldie,  barony,  Fossoway,  i.  451. 
Aldinny,  stream,  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 
Aldmore  Hills,  Banff,  i.  403. 
Aldowrie,  mansion,  Dores,  i.  285. 
Ale,  river,  Roxburghshire  ;  Ancrum,  i.  44'; 

Ashkirk,  72  ;  Bowden,  149  ;    Lilliesleaf, 

ii.  180. 
Ale,  river,  Ayton,  i.  90  ;  Eyemouth,  410. 
Alemoor,  lake,  Roberton,  i.  422. 
Alexandria,   late    a   quoad  sacra   parish, 

Dumbarton,  i.  35,  141. 
Alford,  district,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  21. 
Alford,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  35. 
Aline,  loch,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Allachic,  district,  Aberlour,  Banff,  i.  27. 
Allachoy,  burn,  Aberlour,  i.  27. 
Allan,  bay,  Sorbie,  ii.  473. 
Allan,  river,  Blackford,  i.  131  ;  Dunblane, 

314  ;  Lecropt,  ii.  160. 
Allan,  river,  Melrose,  ii.  246. 
Allan,  Bridge  of,  village,  Stirling,  i.  36. 
Allanbank,  house,  Edrom,  i.  395. 
Allanbank,  minsion,  Lauder,  ii.  156. 
Allander,  river,   Baldemock,   i.   92  ;   New 

Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 
Allangiange,  Knockbain,  ii.  137. 
Allans,  isles,  Bute,  ii.  255. 
Allanton,  estate,  in  Cambusnethan,  county  of 

Lanark,  i.  171,  ii.  489. 
Allanton,  estate,  Dunscore,  i.  339. 
Allanton,  village,  in  Edrom,  Berwick,  i.  36. 
Allardyce,  Castle  of,  in   Arbuthnott,  i.   60, 

120. 
Allcrmuir,  hill,  Lasswade,  ii.  153. 

596 


ALLOA,  town,  Clackmannan,  i.  36. 

Allt-da-ghob,  stream,  Fortingal,  i.  448. 

Almagill  Hills,  Dalton,  i.  271. 

Almond,  district,  Muiravonside,  ii.  289. 

Almond,  river,  Linlithgowshire,  i.  391,  ii. 
184  ;  Calder,i.  166,167  5  Cramond,  226  ; 
Dalmeny,  265  ;  Kirkliston,  ii.  110;  Li- 
vingstone, 191. 

Almond,  river,  Perthshire,  ii.  365  ;  Fowlis 
Wester,  i.  453,  454  ;  Methven,  ii.  251  ; 
Monzie,  276. 

Almondbank,  village,  in  Methven   parish, 

Perth,  i.  38. 
'  Alness,  parish,  county   of  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, i.  39,  154. 

Alsh,  loch,  Lochalsh,  ii.  192. 

Altar  Stone,  in  Old  Deer,  i.  277- 

Altars  of  Lina,  rocks,  North  Ronaldshay, 
Orkney,  ii.  424. 

Alt-Chaorach,  stream,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 

Altirlie,  headland,  Pettie,  ii.  371. 

Altivaig,  in  Kilmuir,  Inverness,  i.  39,  ii. 
53. 

Alt-Ketlan,  stream,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 

Altnarie,  burn,  Ardclaeh,  i.  63. 

Alt-Patrick,  burn,  ii.  342. 

Altyre,  parish,  Rafford,  ii.  399, 400. 

Alva,  parish,  Stirling,  i.  39. 

Alvah,  parish,  Banff,  i.  40. 

Alves,  parish,  Elgin,  i.  41,  ii.  82. 

Alvie,  parish,  Inverness,  i.  42. 

Altth,  parish,  Perth  and  Forfar,  i.  42. 

Amat  Cottage,  Kincardine,  ii.  68. 

Amherst  Bay,  Latheron,  ii.  223. 

Amisfield,  seat,  Haddington,  i.  528. 

Amisfield,  village,  Tinwald,  Dumfriesshire, 
i.  43,  ii.  542,  543. 

Amondell  House,  Uphall,  ii.  580. 

Amulrie,  village,  in  Dull,  Perth,  i.  43,  301, 
302. 

Ana,  tract,  Melrose,  ii.  312. 

Anabich,  island,  in  Harris,  Inverness,  i.  44. 

Ancrum,  New,  estate,  in  Temple,  ii.  534. 

Ancrum-Muir,  Maxton,  ii.  239. 

Ancrum,  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  44, 

Ander  Hill,  Bressay,  i.  153. 

Anderston,  burgh,  Lanark,  i.  44. 

Andow,  loch,  Ardchattan,  hi.  288. 

ANDREW'S,  ST.,  city,  Fife  ;  history, i.  45  ; 
description,  46  ;  University,  46  ;  Madras 
College,  47  ;  trade,  47  ;  burgh  govern- 
ment, 48  ;  rural  district,  48  ;  ecclesiastical 
affairs,  48  ;  antiquities,  49. — See  also  i. 
171,  ii.  167. 

Andrew's,  St.,  hill,  Bressay,  i.  153. 

Andrew's,  St.,  old  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  229. 

Andrew's,  St.,  parish,  Orkney,  i.  49. 

Andrew's  Lhanbryde,  St.,  parish,  Elgin,  i. 
50. 

Andunty,  loch,  Pettie,  ii.  371. 

Angry  Burn,  Dallas,  i.  263. 

Angus.     See  Forfarshire. 

ANNAN,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  50. 

Annan,  river,  Annan  parish,  i.  51,  52  ; 
Applegarth,  55  ;  Brydekirk,  156  ;  Hod- 
dam,  544  ;  Johnstone,  589  ;  Kirkpatrick- 
Juxta,  ii.  125. 

Annandale,  Dumfriesshire,  i.  308. 

Annat,  river,  Kilmadock,  ii.  38. 

Annaty,  stream,  Scone,  ii.  456. 

Ann's,  St.,  Lasswade,  ii.  154. 

Anne's,  St.,  Yards,  Edinburgh,  i.  375. 

Anniston,  house,  Inverkeillor,  i.  571. 


Aunock,  river,  Dreghorn,  i.  291  ;  Stewar- 
ton,  ii.  488. 

Annock  Lodge,  Dreghorn,  i.  291. 

Anstruther  Easter,  parish,  Fife,  i.  52. 

Anstrutheb  Wester,  parish,  Fife,  i.  53. 

Antermony,  house,  Campsie,  i.  175. 

Anthony's,  St.,  Well,  Edinburgh,  i.  375. 

Antonshill,  house,  Eccles,  i.  355. 

Anwoth,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  54. 

Aonaeh-Sassan,  hill,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 

App,  stream,  Ballantrae,  i.  94. 

Appin,  county  Argyll.     See  Lismore. 

Appin,  district,  Dull,  Perthshire,  i.  301,  302. 

Applecross,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i. 
54. 

Applegarth  and  Sibbaldbie,  parish,  Dum- 
fries, i.  55. 

Appletree-Hall,  village,  in  Hawick,  Rox- 
burgh, i.  56. 

Aquaharney,  estate,  Cruden,  i.  244. 

Aquhorties,  in  Inverury,  i.  581. 

Arasaig,  district,  Argyll,  i.  64,  65,  66. 

Aray,  river,  Inverary,  i.  565. 

Arbeadie,  village,  Banchory- Ternan,  i.  56. 

Arbigland  House,  Kirkbean,  ii.  95. 

Arbikie,  mound,  Lunan  parish,  ii.  220. 

Arbirlot,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  56. 

ARBROATH,  sea-port  and  parish,  Forfar, 
i.  56. 

Arbroath  and  Forfar  railway,  i.  57. 

Arbuthnott,  parish,  Kincardine,  i.  59. 

Archerfield,  house,  Dirleton,  i.  282. 

Archers  Croft,  Blantyre,  i.  136. 

Archiestown,  village,  Elgin,  i.  60,  ii.  136. 

Ard,  Loch,  Aberfoyle,  Perth,  i.  25. 

Ardargie,  station,  Dunning,  i.  335. 

Ardblair,  mansion,  Blairgowrie,  i.  134. 

Ardchaduill,  promontory,  Lochbroom,  ii. 
192. 

Ardchattan,  parish,  Argyll,  i.  60. 

Ardclach,  parish,  Nairn,  i.  62,  82. 

Ardeer,  grounds,  Stevenstou,  ii.  487. 

Ardelisters,  isles,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 

Arden,  in  Eastwood,  i.  354. 

Arden,  house,  Bonhill,  i.  141. 

Arden,  village,  Lanark,  i.  63. 

Ardenconnel,  mansion,  Row  parish,  ii.  438. 

Ardendraught,  bay,  Cruden,  i.  243. 

Ardentinny,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  337. 

Ardeonaig,  Kenmore,  ii.  12. 

Arderseir,  parish,  Inverness,  i.  63. 

Ardgartain  House,  Lochgoilhead,  ii.  196. 

Ardgowan  House,  Innerkip,  i.  561. 

Ardineaple,  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchattan,  ii. 
20. 

Ardineaple  Castle,  Row  parish,  ii.  438. 

Ardinning,  Loch,  Strathblaue,  ii.  511. 

Ardinslat,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  337. 

Ardintoul,  bay,  Glenshiel,  i.  510. 

Ardintrive,  harbour,  Kerera  isle,  ii.  14. 

Ard-Ivachar,  in  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 

Ardkinglass  Lodge,  Lochgoilhead,  ii.  196. 

Ardlair,  farm,  Stracban,  ii.  505. 

Ardle,  river,  Bendochy,i.  117  5  Blairgowrie, 
134  ;  Moulin,  ii.  284  ;  Rattray,  406. 

Ardleish,  farm,  in  Arrochar,  i.  71- 

Ardlussa,  house,  Jura,  i.  591 . 

Ardmaddy,  bay,  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchat- 
tan, ii.  19,20. 

Ardmarnock  House,  Kilfinau,  ii.  32. 

Ardineanach,  district,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 
ii.  430. 

Ardmellie,  estate,  Marnoch,  ii.  232. 


INDEX. 


Ard-Michael,  headland,  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 
Ardmillan,  in  Girvan,  i.  475. 
Ardminish,  in  Gigha  and  Cara,  i.  471. 
Ardmore,  in  Waternish,  i.  299. 
Ardraore,  bay,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 
Ardmore,  promontory,  Cardross,  i.  1 78. 
Ardmore  House,  Edderton,  i.  359. 
Ardmueknish,  bay,  Ardchattan,  i.  62. 
Ardnacallich,    promontory,     Kilninian,    ii. 

577. 

Ardnafuaran,  in  Ardnamurchan,  i.  66. 
Ardnamurchan,  parish,  Argyll  and  Inver- 
ness, i.  64. 
Ardneil,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 
Ardoch,  late  quoad  sacra  parish,  Perth,  i. 

66,  ii.  297. 
Ardoch,  farm,  Kilmarnock,  ii.  44. 
Ardoch,  lands,  Cardross,  i.  178. 
Ardoch,  river,  Kilmadock,  ii.  38. 
Ardonald,  in  Cairnie,  i.  165. 
Ardpatrick,  in  Kilcalmonell  and  Kilberry, 

ii.  25,  26. 
Ardrissaig,  village,  Argyll,  i.  67,  ii.   135, 

195. 
Ardross,   district,   Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 

430. 
Ardross,  lands,  Rosskeen,  ii.  431. 
ARDROSSAN,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  67- 
Ardsheal,  Duror,  Argyll,  i.  343. 
Ardstinchar,  castle,  Ballantrae,  i.  94. 
Ardtealla,  bay,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 
Ardtallanaig,  Kenmore,  ii.  13. 
Ardtoe,  bay  at,  in  Ardnamurchan,  Argyll, 

i.  64. 
Ardtornish,  estate,  Morvern,  ii.  283,  284. 
Ardveirge,  Laggan,  ii.  140. 
Ardvorlich,  in  Comrie,  i.  216. 
Ardvrack,  castle,  Assynt,  i.  73. 
Ard-Vula,  headland,  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 
Ardwall,  house,  Anwoth,  Kirkcudbright,  i. 

54. 
Ardwell,  Stoneykirk,  ii.  501. 
Argaty,  mansion,  Kilmadock,  ii.  39. 
Argrennan,  seat,  Tongland,  ii.  547. 
Argyll  House,  Stirling,  ii.  492. 
ARGYLLSHIRE,  i.  68. 
Arichonan,  hill,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  133. 
Arinangour,  village,  Argyll,  i.  70. 
Arisaig.     See  Arasaig. 
Arity,  stream,  Inverarity,  i.  565. 
Arkaig,  loch,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 
Arkendeith,  Tower  of,  Avoch,  i.  84. 
Arkinholrne,  Kirkurd,  ii.  127. 
Arkle,  mountain,  Eddrachillis,  i.  360. 
Arklestone,  near  Glasgow,  i.  489. 
Armadale,  village,  Linlithgow,  i.  70. 
Armadale  Castle,  Sleat  parish,  Skye,  ii.  470. 
Armidale,  valley,  Farr,  i.  418,  419. 
Armiddle,  hill,  Turriff,  ii.  566,  567. 
Arnage,  house,  Ellen,  i.  402. 
Amal,  river,  in  Lewis,  i.  109. 
Arnat,  river,  Moulin,  ii.  284. 
Arndean,  house,  Fossoway,  i.  451. 
Arndilly,  estate,  Boharm,  i.  137,  138. 
Arnfinlay,  castle,  Kippen,  ii.  95. 
Arngask,  parisli,  Fife,  Kinross,  and  Perth, 

i.  70. 
Arnhall,  in  Fettercairn,  i.  425. 
Arnisdale,  village,  Glenelg,  i.  505,  506. 
Arnish  Point,  Stornoway,  Lewis,  ii.  502. 
Arniston,  House  of,  Borthwick,  i.  145. 
Arnold's,  St.,  seat,  in  Tannadice,  ii.  528. 
Arnprior,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  71,  ii.  94. 
597 


Arntully.     See  Airntully. 

Arnyfoul,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  71. 

Aros,  Kilninian  and   Kilmore,  ii.  54,  292, 

446. 
Aross,  bay,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 
Arradoul,  Ruthven,  ii.  405. 
Arran,  isle,  i.  163. 
Arran,  isle,  Buteshire,  i.  71. 
Arran  House,  Kilbride,  ii.  21. 
Arrochar,  parish,  Dumbarton,  i.  71. 
Artendol,  old  parish,  Boharm,  i.  137. 
Arthur's  Oven,  Larbert,  ii.  149. 
Arthur's  Seat,  Edinburgh,  i.  371,  372,  375. 
Arthurlee,  Cross,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  72.' 
Arthurlee,  West,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  72. 
Arthurstone,   lands,   Cupar-Angus,  i.  256, 

257. 
Ascog,  bay,  Kingarth,  ii.  74. 
Ashare,  district,  Eddrachillis,  i.  360,  361. 
Ashburn,  seat,  Renfrewshire,  ii.  415. 
Ashdale,  Kilbride,  ii.  2). 
Ashgrove,  lake,  Kilwinning,  ii.  66 ;  house,  67. 
Ashiesteel,  seat,  Yarrow,  ii.  618,  619. 
Ashig,  in  Strath,  ii.  510. 
Ashintully,  mansion,  Kirkmiehael,  ii.  118. 

Ashi's  Hill,  Dores,  i.  285. 

Ashkirk,  parish,  Selkirk  and  Roxburgh,  i. 
72. 

Ashley,  estate,  Ratho,  ii.  403. 

Asleed,  stream,  Monquhitter,  ii.  271. 
Assel,  stream,  Girvan,  i.  475. 
Assynt,  parish,  Sutherland,  i.  72. 

Asta,  loch,  Tingwall,  ii.  542. 

Athelstaneford,  parish,  Haddington,  i.  73. 
Atholl,  district,  Moulin,  ii.  284. 

Auchaber,  house,  Forgue,  i.  444. 

Auchalton,  Kirkmiehael,  ii.  1 15. 

Auchan  House,  Duudonald,  i.  320. 

Auchandryne,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  74. 

Auchenbowie,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320,  321. 

Auchencruive,  mansion,  St.  Quivox,  ii.  399. 

Auchendavie,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 

Auchengeith,  hill,  Kirkmahoe,  ii.  112. 

Auchenharvie,  castle,  Stewarton,  ii.  489. 

Auchenlodmont,  Paisley,  ii.  342. 

Auchenreoch,  house,  Strickathrow,  ii.  517. 

Auchenskeoch,  in  Colvend,  i.  215. 

Auchernach,  house,  Strathdon,  ii.  513. 

Auehinbathie  Castle,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  203. 

Auchinblae,  village,  Kincardine,  i.  74,  437. 

Auchincairn,  village,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  74. 

Auchixcraw,  village,  Berwick,  i.  74. 

Auchindennan,  lands,  Luss,  ii.  222. 

Auchindoir  and  Kearn,  parish,  Aberdeen, 
i.  74. 

Auchindown,  castle,  Mortlach,  ii.  281. 

Auchindown's  Cairn,  Inveraven,  i.  567. 

Auchinduich,  farm,  Crieeh,  i.  234. 

Auchinearn,  Old  and  New,  villages,  La- 
nark, i.  75,  164. 

Auchingray,  near  Clarkston,  i.  200,  ii.  268. 

Auchinhalrig,  in  Enzie,  i.  403. 

Auchinheath,  Lesmahago,  ii.  171. 

Auchinhove,  seat,  Lumphanan,  ii.  219. 

Auchinlaich,  lands,  Callander,  i.  168. 

Auchinleck,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  75. 

Auchinlilly-lin-Spout,  in  Benny,  i.  279. 

Auchinloch,  hamlet,  Lanark,  i.  76,  164. 

Auchinmully,  village,  Stirling,  i.  76,  106. 

Auchinraith,  hamlet,  Lanark,  i.  76. 

Auchinreoch,  house,  Campsie,  i.  175. 

Auehinroath,  house,  Rothes,  ii.  432. 

Auchintiber,  hamlet,  Lanark,  i.  76. 


Auchintorlie,  seat,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59. 
Auchintoslian,  seat,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59. 
Auchintoul,  mansion,  Marnoch,  ii.  233. 
Auchiries  House,  Rathen,  ii.  402. 
Auchlane,  burn,  Kelton,  ii.  9. 
Auchleeks,  house,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  133. 
Auchlevan,  in  Ardchattan,  ii.  288. 
Auchleven,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  76,  ii.  392. 
Auchlishie,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  132. 
Auehlunies,  mansion,  Maryculter,  ii.  234. 
Auchlunkart,  house,  Boharm,  i.  138. 
Auchlyne  House,  Killin,  ii.  37. 
Auchmacoy,  estate,  Logie-Buehan,  ii.  206. 
Auchmannoch,  seat,  Sorn,  ii.  475. 
Auchmedden,  estate,  in    Aberdour,  Aber- 
deen, i.  22,  23. 
Auchmillan,  hamlet,  Ayrshire,  i.  76. 
Auchmithie,  village,  Forfar,  i.  76,  ii.  587. 
Auchmore,  district,  Weem,  ii.  595,  596. 
Auchmuir  Bridge,  in  Ballingry,  i.  95. 
Auchmuty,  Markinch,  ii.  231. 
Auchxacraig,  village,  Argyll,  i.  77,  ii-  552. 
Auchnacree,  estate,  Fearn,  Forfar,  i.  420. 
Auchnagairn,  mansion,  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 
Auchnamara,  stream,  North  Knapdale,  ii. 

133. 
Auchness,  burn,  Dallas,  i.  263. 
Auchrannie,  Slug  of,  Glenisla,  i.  506. 
Auehray,  Loch,  Aberfoyle,  Pei-th,  i.  25. 
Auchreddy,  old  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  275. 
Auchry,  mansion,  Monquhitter,  ii.  272. 
Auehter,  Water  of,  Cambusnethan,  i.  170. 
Adchterarder,  parish,  Perth,  i.  77- 
Auchterderran,  parish,  Fife,  i.  78. 
Auchtergaven,  parish,  Perth,  i.  78. 
Auchterhouse,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  79. 
Auchterless,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  80. 
Auchtermairnie,  seat,  Kennoway,  ii.  13. 
AUCHTERMUCHTY,  parisli,  Fife,  i.  80— 

i.  30. 
AucuTERNUD,hamlet,  Ross  and  Cromarty,.i. 

81. 
Auchtertool,  parish,  Fife,  i.  81,  ii.  76. 
Auchtertyre,  farm,  Newtyle,  ii.  316. 
Auchtigall,  Peterhead,  ii.  369. 
Auchtrematane,  burn,  Portpatrick,  ii.  388. 
Auckingill,  township,  Caithness,  i.  82. 
Auld,  river,  Kirkpatrick-Irongray,  ii.  124. 
Auldbar  House,  in  Aberlemno,  i.  27. 
Auldcathie,  old  parish,  Linlithgowshire,  i. 

265,  266,  ii.  110. 
Auldearn,  parish,  Nairn,  i.  82,  194. 
Auldfield,  Renfrewshire,  i.  83. 
Auld  Grey  Cairns,  Inch,  i.  556. 
Auldhouse,  burn,  Eastwood,  i.  354. 
Auldtown,  hamlet,  Loudoun,  ii.  217- 
Auld  Wick,  in  Wick,  Caithness,  ii.  610. 
Auld  Wives'  Lifts,  in  Baldernock,  i.  92. 
Aulmore,  hill,  Grange,  i.  518. 
Ault-an-fhiler,  stream,  Pettie,  ii.  371. 
Aultgraad,  or  Aultgrande,  stream,  Alness, 

i.  39  ;  Kiltearn,  ii.  64. 
Aultguish,  burn,  Urquhart,  ii.  582. 
Aultnaharrow,  in  Farr,  i.  419. 
Aultsigh,  stream,  Urquhart,  ii.  582,  583. 
Auskerry,  isle,  Orkney,  i.  83,  ii.  519. 
Aven,  Sanda  isle,  Cantyre,  Argyll,  ii.  476. 
Aven,  river,  Birse,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  130. 
Aven,  river,  Linlithgowshire.     See  Awn. 
Aven,  river,  Banffshire  ;  Inveraven,  i.  567  ; 

river  and  loch,  Kirkmiehael,  ii.  116. 
Avich,  loch,  Kilchrenan  and  Dalavich,  ii.  27. 
Avin  Lussa,  stream,  Jura,  i.  591. 


INDEX. 


Avoch,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  83. 

Avochy  House,  Huutly,  i.  552. 

Avon,  river,  Lanarkshire  ;  Avondale,  i.  84  ; 

Dalserf,   269  ;    Hamilton,    534  ;    Stone- 
house,  ii.  500. 
Avon,  river,  Linlithgowshire,  ii.  183,  184  ; 

Borrowstounness,  i.  144;    Slamannan,  ii. 

469. 
Avona  Portieosa,  Southend,  ii.  476. 
Avondale,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  84. 
Avonholm,  lands,  Glassford,  i.  500. 
Awe,  loch,  Argyllshire  ;  Ardchattan,  i.  60, 

61,69;  Glenorchy,  509  ;  Kilchrenan  and 

Dalavich,  ii.  27 ;  Kilmartin,  44. 
Awe,  river,  Ardchattan,  i.  61  ;  Glenorchy, 

509  ;  Muckairn,  ii.  288. 
AYR,    situation,    &c,    i.  85 ;    trade    and 

manufactures,  86  ;  local  government,  86  ; 

parish,   87  ;     ecclesiastical    affairs,    87 ; 

eminent  men,  88. 
Ayr,  river,  Auchinleck,  i.  75  ;  Mauchline, 

ii.  237 i  Muirkirk,  291  ;  Tarbolton,  530. 
Ayr  and  Glasgow  railway,  i.  489. 
AYRSHIRE,  i.  88. 
Ayton,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  89. 
Ayton  House,  in  Abernethy,  Perth,  i.  29. 


B 


Ba,  stream  and  loch,  Torosay,  ii.  551. 
Baberton,  seat,  Currie,  i.  258. 
Bachd,  isle,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  ii.  54. 
Bachies,  village,  Sutherland,  i.  91. 
Back,  in  Stornoway  parish,  Lewis,  ii.  503. 
Backdean,  hamlet,  Newton,  i.  91. 
Backmuir,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  91. 
Back  Part,  vale,  Monzie,  ii.  276. 
Back  Sands,  Marytown,  ii.  236. 
Badan,  Loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
Badcall,  harbour,  Eddrachillis,  i.  360,  361. 
Badenoch,  district,  Inverness-shire,  i.  42, 

ii.  80. 
Baidland,  hill,  Dairy,  i.  267. 
Baikie,  in  Airlie,  Forfar,  i.  34. 
Baillieston,  village,  Lanark,  i.  91. 
Baillieston  Toll,  Old  Monkland,  i.  106. 
Bainsford,  village,  Stirling,  i.  91. 
Balancleroeh,  house,  Campsie,  i.  175. 
Balantrodach,  chapelry,  Temple,  ii.  535. 
Balas,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
Balbardie  House,  Bathgate,  i.  Ill,  112. 
Balbeggie,  village,  Perth,  i.  91,  ii.  88. 
Balbegno  Castle,  Fettercairn,  i.  425. 
Balbirne,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  91. 
Balbirnie,  lands,  Markinch,  ii.  231,  232. 
Balbirnie- Bridge,  Markinch,  ii.  231. 
Balblair,   hamlet,   Kirkmichael  and   Culli- 

cudden,  ii.  119. 
Balblair,  house,  Edderton,  i.  359. 
Balblair,  isle,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  91. 
Balbrogie,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  91. 
Baleunno,  village,  Perthshire,  i.  91. 
Baleaithly,  lands,  Dunino,  i.  326. 
Balcarres,  near  Colinsburgh,  i.  210,  ii.  28, 

29. 
Balcarry,  bay,  Rerwick,i.  74,  ii.  416 ;  House, 

ii.  416. 
Balcaskie  House,  Carnbee,  i.  183. 
Balcastle,  Kilsyth,  ii.  63. 
Balclirystie,  lands,  Newburn,  ii.  309. 
Balchullisii.     See  BallichiUish. 
Balckerabeck,  farm,  Tealing,  ii.  534. 
598 


Balcomie,  house,  Crail,  i.  226. 
Balconey,  seat,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  Li.  430. 
Balcurvie,  village,  Fife,  i.  92. 
Baldernock,  parish,  Stirling,  i.  92,  174. 
Baldoon,  castle,  Kirkinner,  ii.  107. 
Baldorney,  seat,  Banffshire,  i.  105. 
Baldovan,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  92 ;  House, 

ii.  229. 
Baldovie,  mansion,  Kingoldmm,  ii.  78. 
Baldowrie,  Kettins,  ii.  14. 
Baldridge,  burn,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 
Baledgarno,  village,  Perth,  i.  92,  560. 
Baledmund,  mansion,  Moulin,  ii.  284. 
Balerno,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  92,  257. 
Balfield,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  92. 
Balfour,  castle,  Markinch,  ii.  231. 
Balfour  Castle,  Kingoldrum,  ii.  79. 
Balfron,  parish,  Stirling,  i.  92. 
Balgarvie,  seat,  Monimail,  ii.  265. 
Balgavies,  in  Aberlemno,  Forfar,  i.  26,  27. 
Balgay,  lands,  near  Dundee,  i.  318,  ii.  178. 
Balgersho,  lands,  Cupar- Angus,  i.  256. 
Balgie,  in  Applecross,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 

i.  55. 
Balgonar,  seat,  Saline,  ii.  447. 
Balgone,  estate,  North  Berwick,  i.  123. 
Balgonie,  Fifeshire.     See  Coaltown ;  Milton 

of  Balgonie ;  and  Markinch. 
Baigovie,  in  Craig,  i.  222,  223. 
Balgowan,  seat,  Methven,  ii.  251. 
Balgown,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Balgownie,  Brig  of,  Old  Aberdeen,  i.  19. 
Balgray,  in  Govan,  i.  515. 
Balgray,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  93. 
Balgreggan,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  1 15. 
Balgreggan,  seat,  Stoneykirk,  ii.  501. 
Balgrie,  Kennoway,  ii.  13. 
Baliiaddie,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  93. 
Balhary,  mansion,  Alyth,  Perth,  i.  43. 
Balhousie,  Largo,  ii.  151. 
Balhousie,  mansion,  Perth,  ii.  360. 
Baligil,  burn,  Fair,  i.  418. 
Balinaby,  residence,  Kilehoman,  ii.  27. 
Balinloan,  farm,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  332. 
Balintore,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  131. 
Bai.intore,  village,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i. 

93,  420. 
Balintraid,  Kilmuir  Easter,  ii.  54. 
Balishear,  isle,  Inverness-shire,  i.  93. 
Balkail,  mansion,  Old  Luce,  ii,  219. 
Balkello,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  93. 
Ballagan,  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 
Ballandarg,  burn,  Glammis,  i.  477- 
Ballandarg,  seat,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  132. 
Ballantrae,  parish,  Ayrshire,  i.  93. 
Ballater,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  94,  508. 
Balleid   House,  Lethendy  and  Kinloch,  ii. 

173. 
Ballenbreich,  castle,  Flisk,  i.  433. 
Ballencrieff,  seat,  in  Aberlady,  Haddington, 

i.  26. 
Ballendean,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  94. 
Ballendrick,  house,  Dunbarny,  i.  313. 
Ballengeich,  Stirling,  ii.  491. 
Ballenluig,  village,  Perth,  i.  94. 
Ballewan,  farm,  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 
Balliasta,  in  Unst,  Shetland,  ii.  579. 
Ballichulish,  district,  Argyll  and  Inver- 
ness, i.  95,  ii.  189. 
Ballikinrain,  Killearn,  ii.  35. 
Ballimore,  mansion,  Strachur,  ii.  505. 
Ballimore  House,  Kilfinan,  ii.  32. 
Ballindalloch,  Balfron,  i.  93. 


Ballindalloch  House,  Inveraven,  i.  567. 

Ballindoch,  estate,  Perthshire,  i.  43. 

Ballindown,  mansion,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  64. 

Ballingear,  house,  Kells,  ii.  6. 

Ballingry,  parish,  Fife,  i.  95. 

Ballintomb,  moor,  in  Knockando,  Elgin,  i. 
60. 

Ballo,  hill,  Longforgan,  ii.  210. 

Balloan,  in  Tarbat,  ii.  529. 

Balloch,  castle,  Bonhill,  i.  141. 

Balloch,  castle,  Kenmore,  ii.  12. 

Balloch,  farm,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  132. 

Balloch,  lake,  Muthill,  ii.  297. 

Balloch,  village,  Inverness,  i.  95. 

Balloch,  Mickle  and  Little,  hills,  i.  518. 

Ballochleam,  rock,  Kippen,  ii.  94. 

Ballochmorie,  seat,  Colmonell,  i.  213. 

Ballochmyle,  mansion,  Mauchline,  ii.  237. 

Ballochney,  village,  Lanark,  i.  95. 

Ballochtoul,  Girvan,  i.  474,  475. 

Ballogie,  mansion,  Birse,  i.  130. 

Ballomill,  rivulet,  Cults,  i.  249. 

Ballownie,  farm,  Strickathrow,  ii.  517. 

Ballumbie,  mansion,  Murroes,  ii.  294. 

Ballygrant,  Kilarrow  and  Kilmeny,  ii.  16. 

Ballykellet,  barony,  Cumbray,  i.  250. 

Ballyshear,  mansion,  Southend,  ii.  477. 

Balmacaan,  house,  Urquhart,  ii.  583. 

Balmachree,  farm,  Pettie,  ii.  372. 

Balmaclellan,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  95. 

Balmadies,  mansion,  Rescobie,  ii.  417,  418. 

Balmae,  residence,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  102. 

Balmaghie,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  96. 

Balmaha,  in  Buchanan,  i.  157. 

Balmakelly,  moor,  Marykirk,  ii.  236. 

Balmakewan,  mansion,  Marykirk,  ii.  235. 

Balmalcolm,  village,  Fife,  i.  97. 

Balmaleedie  Hill,  Marykirk,  ii.  235. 

Balmanno  Castle,  Dron,  i.  292. 

Balmashinar,  hill,  Forfar,  i.  439. 

Balmbrae,  village,  Fife,  i.  97. 

Balmerino,  parish,  Fife,  i.  97. 

Bal  Mhoadan,  Argyllshire,  i.  60,  62. 

Balmoral,  house,  in  Crathie,  i.  229. 

Balmore,  village,  Baldernock,  i.  92,  98. 

Balmule,  house,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 

Balmullo,  village,  Fife,  i.  98,  ii.  174,  175. 

Balmuto,  seat,  Kinghorn,  ii.  76'. 

Balnaboth,  seat,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  132. 

Balnabruach,  village,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 
i.  98,  ii.  319. 

Balnacraig,  estate,  in  Aboyne,  Aberdeen,  i. 
32. 

Balnagown,  estate,  Edderton,  i.  359  ;  Kil- 
muir Easter,  ii.  54. 

Balnagown,  forest,  Kincardine,  ii.  68. 

Balnagown,  stream,  Kilmuir  Easter,  ii.  53  ; 
Rosskeen,  431 . 

Balna-huaigh,  isle,  Argyll,  i.  99. 

Balnakeilly,  mansion,  Moulin,  ii.  284. 

Balnakettle,  in  Fettercairn,  i.  425. 

Balnakiel,  Durness,  i.  342,  343. 

Balnamoon,  lands,  Menmuir,  ii.  248. 

Balnapaling,  village,  Nigg,  ii.  319. 

Balnasuisi,  hamlet,  Perth,  L  99. 

Balnkirk,  Kennoway,  ii.  13. 

Balquhain  Castle,  in  Garioch,  i.  464,  465. 

Balquhidder,  lands,  Methven,  ii.  251. 

Balquhidder,  parish,  Perth,  i.  99. 

Balquhindachy,  hill,  Methlick,  ii.  250. 

Balruddery,  Liff  and  Benvie,  ii.  179. 

Balrymont,  hills,  St.  Andrew's,  i.  48. 

Balshandie,  lake,  Lundie  and  Fowlis,ii.  221. 


INDEX. 


Balsillie,  heights,  Leslie,  ii.  170. 
Balta,  islet,  Shetland,  i.  99,  ii.  578. 
Balthayock,  mansion,  Kinnoull,  ii.  88,  89. 
Balvag,  river,  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 
Balvaird,  castle,  in  Abernethy,  Fife,  i.  30. 
Balvenie,  district,  Banffshire,  i.  105. 
Balvery,  castle,  Mortlach,  ii.  281. 
Balvicar^  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchattan,  ii.  19, 

20. 
Balwahanaid,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  99. 
Balweary,  castle,  in  Abbotshall,  Fife,  i.  2. 
Balwherne,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  99. 
Bamff,  lands,  in  Alyth,  i.  42,  43. 
Bamfiat,  in  Culter,  i.  248. 
Banchoby-Devenick,  parish,  i.  99. 
Banchory-Ternan,   parish,   Kincardine,   i. 

100. 
Bandirran,  Kettins,  ii.  14. 
Bandrum,  seat,  Saline,  ii.  447. 
Bane's  Hole,  cave,  Knockando,  ii.  136. 
Baneton,  village,  Fife,  i.  101. 
BANFF,  burgh,  i.  101,  ii.  225. 
BANFFSHIRE,  i.  104. 
Bankend,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  105. 
Bankfoot,  village,  Perth,  i.  105 — i.  78. 
Bank-Head,  Canisbay,  ii.  252. 
Bankhead,  Slamannan,  ii.  469. 
Bankhead,  district,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  105. 
Bankhead,  farm,  Linton,  ii.  187. 
Bankhead,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  105. 
Bankhead,  seat,  Currie,  i.  258. 
Bankuock,  in  Denny,  i.  279. 
Bankton-Park,  village,  Fife,  i.  105. 
Banniskirk,  in  Halkirk,  i.  531. 
Bannock,  burn,  Stirlingshire,  i.  106  ;  ii.  320, 

496. 
Bannockburn,  village,  Stirling,  i.  105  ;  ii. 

319,320,321. 
Bantaskine  House,  Falkirk,  i.  415,  416. 
Banton,  village,  Stirling,  i.  106,  ii.  63. 
Banton,  Lower,  village,  Kilsyth,  i.  76. 
Bar,  The,  Auldearn,  i.  82. 
Bar  Hill,  Old  Cumnock,  i.  254. 
Bar-Michael,  wood,  near  Bothwell-Bridge, 

i.  533. 
Bara,  Haddington.     See  Garvald. 
Barachan,  creek,  Kilfinichen  and  Kilviceu- 

en,  ii.  33. 
Barachnie,  village,  Lanark,  i.  106. 
Baradale,  in  Ardnamurchan,  Argyllshire,  i. 

65. 
Barassie,  farm,  Dundonald,  i.  321,  489. 
Barbaraville,  village,  Kilmuir  Easter,  i. 

106. 
Barberswells,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  106. 
Barbieston,  lands,  Dalrymple,  i.  268,  269. 
Barbreck,  house,  Craignish,  i.  224. 
Barbush,  Kilbarchan,  ii.  17. 
Barcaldine,  mansion,  Ardehattan,  i.  62. 
Barcaple,  seat,  Tongland,  ii.  547. 
Barden,  stream,  Birnie,  i.  128. 
Bardowie,  mansion,  Baldernock,  i.  92. 
Baremman,  lands,  Roseneath,  ii.  427,  428. 
Barewan,  Nairnshire,  i.  194. 
Bargally,  house,  Minnigaff,  ii.  258. 
Bargany,  estate,  Dailly,  i.  259,  260. 
Bargeny,  seat,  Ayrshire,  i.  89. 
Bargrennan,  Minnigaff,  ii.  258. 
Barhill,  hamlet,  Ayr,  i.  106,  213. 
Barholm  House,  Kirkmabreck,  ii.  111. 
Barjarg,  hamlet,  Dumfries,  i.  106,  ii.  2. 
Barleith,  lands,  Riccarton,  ii.  420. 
Barleyside,  hamlet,  Stirling,  i.  106. 
599 


Barlocco,  in  Rerwick,  ii.  417. 
Barmekin,  in  Keig,  ii.  2. 
Barniiean,  hill,  Echt,  i.  357. 
Barmore,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  135. 
Barnamuch,  farm,   in  Ardehattan,  Argyll, 

i.  61. 
Barubarroch,  Kirkinner,  ii.  107. 
Barnbougle,  lands,  Dalmeny,  i.  265. 
Barucluith,  Hamilton,  i.  533,  534. 
Barncorkrie,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Barnellan,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 
Barness,  farm,  Kirkinner,  ii.  107. 
Barnhill,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  106,  ii.  264. 
Barnhill,  village,  Lanark,  i.  106. 
Barnhill,  mansion,  Kinnoull,  ii.  88. 
Barnhill,  seat,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59. 
Barnhowrie,  estate,  Colvend,  i.  215. 
Barnkirk  Hills,  Annan,  i.  52. 
Barns,  mansion,  Manor  parish,  ii.  230. 
Barns,  East,  village,  Dunbar,  i.  354. 
Barns,  West,  village,  Dunbar,  ii.  598. 
Barusford,  in  Iuchinnan,  i.  558. 
Barnshean,  stream  and  loch,  Kirkmichael, 

ii.  115. 
Barnside  Hill,  Mouswald,  ii.  285. 
Barnslee,  castle,  Markinch,  ii.  232. 
Barntalloeh,  castle,  Langholm,  ii.  147. 
Barnton,  house,  Cramond,  i.  227. 
Barnweill,  Ayr.     See  Craigie,  and  Tarbolton. 
Barnyards,  castle,  Tannadiee,  ii.  529. 
Barnyards,  village,  Fife,  i.  106. 
Barochan,  estate,  Houston,  i.  549. 
Barogill  Castle,  Caithness,  i.  106. 
Barone  Hill,  Rothesay,  ii.  434. 
Barony,  in  Gartly,  Banff,  i.  465. 
Barony,  Lanark.     See  Glasgow. 
Barony,  lands,  in  Gorbals,  i.  512. 
Barr,  hill,  Kilbarchan,  ii.  16. 
Barr  Hill,  lands,  Kirkintilloch,  ii,  109. 
Barr,  lake,  Lochwinnoeh,  ii.  201 ;  castle,  203. 
Barr,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  106. 
Barra,  parish,  Inverness,  i.  107. 
Barra,  Hill  of,  Bom-tie,  i.  7,  149. 
Barrack  House,  in  Bower,  i.  150. 
Barras,  in  Kincardineshire,  i.  336,  ii.  84. 
Barraston,  in  Baldernock,  i.  92. 
Barrel-of-Butter,  islet,  Orkney,  i.  108. 
Barrhead,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  108,  ii.  301. 
Barrie,  parish,  Fox-far,  i.  108. 
Barroch,  seat,  Caithness,  i.  1 66. 
Barrogil  Castle,  Canisbay,  i.  176. 
Barrowfield,  near  Glasgow,  i.  155,  168. 
Barry  Hills,  in  Alyth,  Perth,  i.  42,  43. 
Barscobe,  Balmaclellan,  i.  95,  96. 
Barshell  Hill,  in  Tinwald,  ii.  543. 
Barskimming,  estate,  Stair,  ii.  484. — ii.  237. 
Bartlehill,  eminence,  Eccles,  i.  355. 
Barvas,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  109. 
Barvic,  stream,  Monivaird  and  Strowan,  ii. 

267. 
Barwhinnock,  house,  Twynholm,  ii.  569. 
Bashaw,  Car-luke,  i.  180. 
Bass,  in  Inverury,  i.  580,  581. 
Bass,  isle,  Haddington,  i.  110,  122, 123. 
Bassendean,  Berwickshire,  ii.  601,  602. 
Basta  Voe,  in  North  Yell,  i.  423,  424. 
Bath,  lands,  Beith,  i.  113. 
Bathan's,  Abbey,  St.,  parish,  i.  1 10. 
BATHGATE,  burgh,  Linlithgow,  i.  110. 
Battery,  East,  pier,  Queensferry,  ii.  397. 
Battery,  West,  pier,  Queensferry,  ii.  397. 
Battledykes,  Roman  camp,  Oathlaw,  ii.  325. 
Battle  Hill,  in  Annan,  i.  52. 


Battle  Hill,  in  Drumblade,  i.  292. 

Battle  Knowes,  in  Whitsome  and  Hilton,  ii. 

607. 
Battle  Law,  in  Balmerino,  i.  98. 
Battle-Muir,  Langton,  ii.  149. 
Battoek,  lands,  Polmont,  ii.  378. 
Battock,  Mount,  mountain,  Strachan,  ii.  504. 
Baturrich  Castle,  Kilmaronock,  ii.  44. 
Bay  Cottage,  in  Avoch,  i.  83. 
Bay,  loch,  Duirimsh,  i.  300. 
Bayanne,  in  North  Yell,  i.  424. 
Bayble,  bay,  Stornoway  parish,   Lewis,  ii. 

503. 
Bayfield,  mansion,  Nigg,  ii.  319. 
Bayhierava,  harbour,  Barra,  i.  1 07. 
Baynton,  Fife.     See  Baneton. 
Beacon,  in  Torthorwald,  ii.  554. 
Beacon  Hill,  Bressay,  i.  153. 
Bealach,  pass,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Bealaeh-a-Chumhain- Glais,      frith,     Lunga 

Island,  ii.  222. 
Bealochintie,  bay,  Killean  and  Kilchenzie, 

ii.  34. 
Beanoch,  loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
Beanston,  residence,  Prestonkirk,  ii.  393. 
Beardy-Row,  village,  Bertram-Shotts,  ii.  4  47- 
Beath,  parish,  Fife,  i.  112. 
Beaton's  Mill,  in  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  603. 
Beattock  Inn,  Kirkpatrick-Juxta,  ii.  125. 
Beaufort  Castle,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 
Beauly,  river,    Kilmorack,    i.   112,  ii.  49  ; 

Kiltarlity,  ii.  63  ;  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 
Beauly,  village,  Kilmorack,  i,  112,  ii.  50. 
Beckton,  hi  Dryfesdale,  i.  296. 
Bedlay,  well,  Chryston,  i.  198. 
Bedlormie,  castle,  Torphichen,  ii.  553. 
Bedrule,  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  112. 
Bee,  Loch,  in  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 
Beechwood,  mansion,  Corstorphine,  i.  218. 
Beechwood,  mansion,  Kettins,  ii.  14. 
Beil,  rivulet,  Beil-Grange,  i.  113. 
Beil,  seat,  Stenton,  ii.  486. 
Beil-Grange,  hamlet,  Haddington,  i.  113. 
Bein-a-Bhragidh,  hill,  Golspie,  i.  511. 
Beinabhuiridh,  mountain,  Gleuorchy,  i.  509. 
Beinachleidh,  mountain,  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 
Bein-an-inich,  Isle  of  Mull,  ii.  293. 
Bein-Breacaidh,  mountain,  Moulin,  ii.  284. 
Beindourain,  mountain,  Glenorchy,  i.  509, 
Beinevean,  loch,  Kilmorack,  ii.  49. 
Bein-Heinish,  hill,  Tiree,  ii.  544. 
Beinlaoidh,  mountain,  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 
Beinligh,  hill,  Portree,  ii.  389. 
Bein-Lundie,  hill,  Golspie,  i.  511. 
Beinmacmonaidh,  mountain,  Glenorchy,  i. 

509. 
Beinn-a-Chaolais,  hill,  Jura,  i.  591. 
Beinn-an-Oir,  hill,  Jura,  i.  591. 
Beinn-Bharfhionn,  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 
Beinn-chait,  Blair- Atholl,  i.  132. 
Bein-deirg,  Blair- Atholl,  i.  132. 
Beinne-Leothaid,  in  Eddrachillis,  i.  360. 
Beinnemhian,  loch,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 
Beinne-Shith,  in  Sutherland,  i.  360. 
Beinne-Stac,  in  Eddrachillis,  i.  360. 
Beinne-Stroim,  in  Eddrachillis,  i.  360. 
Beinn-ghlo,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  132. 
Beinn-Ghulbhuinn,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  118. 
Beinn-mheadhonaidh,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  132. 
Beinn-Shianta,  hill,  Jura,  i.  591. 
BEITH,  parish,  Renfrew  and  Ayr,  i.  1 13. 
Belchester,  house,  Eccles,  i.  355. 
Belentomb  of  Inverallan,  i.  345, 


INDEX. 


Belfield,  seat,  Inveresk,  ii.  323. 
Belhaven,  village,  Haddington,  i.  115,  310. 
Belhelvie,  farm,  in  Flisk,  i.  433. 
Belhelvie,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  115. 
Belhennie,  hamlet,  Rhynie  and  Essie,  ii.  419. 
Belivat,  Loch,  in  Ardclaeh,  Nairn,  i.  63. 
BellRockLightbouse,opposite  Arbroath,  i.  57. 
Bella,  stream,  Old  Cumnock,  i.  254. 
Bellabeg,  house,  Strathdon,  ii.  513. 
Belladrum,  mansion,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  64. 
Bellahoustown,  in  Govan,  i.  515. 
Beliauocli,  village,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  133. 
Bellaty,  farm,  Glenisla,  i.  507. 
Bell-Craig,  cascade,  Wamphray,  ii.  591. 
Bellefield,  mansion,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 
Belleville,  estate,  in  Alvie,  Inverness,  i.  42. 
Bellevue,  residence,  Auchtermuchty,  i.  81. 
Bellfield,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
Bellfield,  mansion,  Riccarton,  ii.  421. 
Belliduff,  tumulus,  Meigle,  ii.  243. 
Bellie,  parish,  Banff  and  Elgin,  i.  115. 
Belloch,  castle,  Bonhill,  i.  141. 
Bellshill,  village,  Lanark,  i.  116,  148. 
Bell's  Know,  Borrowstounness,  i.  144. 
Bell's-Quarry,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  1 16. 
Bellstown,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  116. 
Bell-tree,  ancient  ash,  Methven,  ii.  252. 
Bellwood,  house,  Glencross,  i.  504. 
Bellwood,  mansion,  Kinnoull,  ii.  88. 
Bellyclone,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  116,  ii.  226. 
Belmont  House,  Meigle,  ii.  243. 
Belmont,  mansion,  Corstorphine,  i.  218. 
Belmont,  residence,  Shetland,  ii.  579. 
Belnaboth,  in  Towie,  ii.  558. 
Belnagoak,  hill,  Methlick,  ii.  250. 
Belretiro,  house,  in  Bonhill,  i.  141. 
Belrinnes,  mountain,  Banffshire,  i.  105. 
Belton  House,  Dunbar,  i.  312. 
Belton  Water,  Dunbar,  i.  311. 
Beltonford,  burn,  Haddingtonshire,  i.  529. 
Beltrees,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  203. 
Belty,  burn,  Kincardine  O'Neil,  ii.  70. 
Belvidere,  house,  Camlachie,  i.  172. 
Bemersyde  Hill,  Mertoun,  ii.  248  ;  House, 

249. 
Ben-Aburd,  mountain,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  22. 
Benachally,  mountain,  Clunie,  i.  203,  204. 
Benachielt,  ravine,  Latheron,  ii.  154. 
Benagen,  mountain,  Boharm,  i.  137,  138. 
Ben-a-gheil,  Latheron,  ii.  154. 
Benalder,  mountain,  Laggan,  ii.  139. 
Benan  Head,  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 
Benarmine,  hill,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
Ben-Aulay,  Ardchattan,  i.  61,  62. 
Ben-Aven,  mountain,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  22. 
Benbecula,  island,  Inverness,  i.  116. 
Benbraniaehan,  hill,  Dalmellington,  i.  264. 
Benbreck,  farm,  Dairy,  i.  268. 
Benbreoch,  hill,  Dalmellington,  i.  264. 
Benbui,  mountain,  Inverary,  i.  566. 
Ben-Bui,  Nairnshire,  ii.  299. 
Ben-Chaorach,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Ben-C'hapull,Kilninver  andKilmelford,  ii.  56. 
Benchochan,  mountain,  Aberfoyle,Perth,i. 25. 
Benchoin,  hill,  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 
Benclionzie,  hill,  Monivaird  and  Strowan, 

ii.266. 
Ben-Chlibrig,  Farr,  i.  418. 
Benchroin,  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 
Bencleucli,  bill,  Tillicoultry,  ii.  540. 
Bencloch,  hill,  Alva,  Stirling,  i.  39. 
Ben-Cochail,  mountain,  Ardchattan,  Argyll, 
i.61. 

600 


Ben-Cornachantian,  Luss,  ii.  222. 
Ben-Cruachan,  mountain,  Ardchattan,  i.  60, 

69. 
Bendearg,  mountain,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Ben-Deirg,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Benderloch,  district,  Argyllshire,  i.  60. 
Bendochy,  parish,  Perth,  i.  116,  135. 
Ben-Don,  mountain,  Aberfoyle,  Perth,  i.  25. 
Ben-eaddan,  mountain,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Beneagen,  hill,  Rothes,  ii.  432. 
Beneich,  hill,  Dumbartonshire,  i.  304. 
Ben-Finnart,  Dumbartonshire,  i.  304. 
Benfrectan,  in  Reay  parish,  ii.  409. 
Bengaillin,  Campbelltown,  i.  173. 
Bengairn,  hill,  Rerwick,  ii.  416. 
Bengali,  village,  Dryfesdale,  i.  295. 
Ben-Griam-more,  Kildonan,  ii.  30. 
Benintuirk,  mountain,  Saddell  and  Skipness, 

ii.  445. 
Benholme,  parish,  Kincardine,  i.  117,  120. 
Ben-Hope,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Ben-Horn,  hill,  Golspie,  i.  511. 
Ben-Hutig,  mountain,  Tongue,  ii.  548. 
Ben-Ketlan,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Ben-Laoghal,  hill,  Tongue,  ii.  548,  549. 
Ben-Lawers,  Perth,  ii.  365. 
Ben-Ledi,  Perthshire,  ii.  365. 
Ben-Loch,  in  Cross  and  Burness,  i.  240. 
Ben-Lomond,  Buchanan,  i.  157. 
Ben-Macdhui,  mountain,  Aberdeenshire,  i. 

229. 
Beu-Maigh,  in  Torosay,  ii.  551. 
Ben-Molurgan,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Benmore,  in  Dunoon  and  Kilrnun,  i.  337. 
Benmore,  Kilfinichen  and  Kilviceuen,  Ar- 
gyllshire, ii.  32. 
Benmore,  mountain,  Assynt,  i.  73. 
Benmore,  mountain,  Killin,  ii.  37- 
Ben-na-Bad,  Reay  parish,  ii.  408. 
Bennabuird,  hill,  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Ben-na-Cailich,  eminence,  Skye,  ii.  467. 
Ben-na-hua,  mountain,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Ben-Nambian,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Bennamuickduidh,  in  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Ben-Nan-Aighean,   mountain,  Ardchattan, 

i.  61. 
Benneaw,  hill,  Glenbucket,  i.  501. 
Bennetstone,  village,  Stirling,  i.  118. 
Ben-Nevis,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 
Ben-Newe,  hill,  Strathdon,  ii.  512. 
Benochee,  mountain,  Oyne,  ii.  336. 
Ben-Ormin,  in  Clyne,  i.  204. 
Ben-Radh,  Reay  parish,  ii.  408. 
Ben-Reisipoll,  mountain,  Argyll,  i.  65,  69. 
Benrinnes,  mountain,  Banffshire,  i.  27. 
Ben-Ruaidh,  Reay  parish,  ii.  408. 
Ben-Scoullard,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Benshalgs,  lake,  Knockando,  ii.  136. 
Ben-Shurery,  Reay  parish,  ii.  408. 
Ben-Spionnadh,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Ben-Starive,  mountain,  Ardchattan,  Argyll, 

i.  61. 
Benston,  in  Old  Cumnock,  i.  254. 
Bentallachan,  hill,  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 
Bentealluidh,  in  Torosay,  ii.  551. 
Ben-Treelahan,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Bents,  Burn  of,  in  Alford,  Aberdeen,  i.  35. 
Ben-Ulay,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Benutium,  Roman  station,   Kirkcudbright, 

ii.  100. 
Benvalla,  hill,  Stobo,  ii.  498. 
Benvan,  hill,  Kilmartin,  ii.  44. 
Benvane,  hill,  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 


Ben-Veallich,  Loth  parish,  ii.  215. 
Ben-Vean,  Ardchattan,  i.  61,62. 
Ben-Veedan,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Benvenue,  mountain,  Aberfoyle,  Perth,  i. 

25. 
Benvie,  village,  Liff,  i.  118. 
Benvigory,  hill,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 
Ben-Voirlich,  Balquhidder,  ii.  194. 
Benvraick,  hill,  Drymen,  i.  296. 
Ben-Vreck,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Benwhat,  hill,  Dalmellington,  i.  264. 
Ben-Wyvis,  Fodderty,  i.  434,  ii.  64. 
Berbeth,  glen,  Straiton,  ii.  506,  507. 
Beregonium,  ancient  city,  Argyll,  i.  62. 
Bernard's,  St.,  Well,  Edinburgh,  i.  378. 
Bernera,  isle,  Barra,  Inverness,  i.  118— i. 

107,  108. 
Bernera,  isle,  in  Harris,  i.  118. 
Bernera,  Great  and  Little,  isles,  in  Uig, 

Lewis,  i.  118. 
Bernice,  house,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  337. 
Berriedale,  district,  Caithness,  i.   118,  ii. 

155. 
Berry  Rock,  Walls  and  Sandness,  ii.  589. 
Berryhill,  farm,  Auchtergaven,  i.  79. 
Bertha,  ancient  name  of  Perth,  ii.  357. 
Bertrasi-Shotts,  parish,  Lanark,   i.    118, 

171. 
Bertyland,  Fife,  i.  160. 
Berubium,  Roman  station,  Caithness,  i.  315. 
Bervie,  burgh,  Kincardine,  i.  120. 
Bervie,  Water  of,  Arbuthnott,  i.  59  ;  Bervie, 

120, 121 ;  Glenbervie,  501. 
BERWICK,  NORTH,  parish,  Haddington, 

i.  122. 
BERWICK-UPON-TWEED,  i.  124.  126. 
Berwick  and  Edinburgh,  or  North  British, 

railway,  i.  379. 
BERWICKSHIRE,  i.  126. 
Bethelnie,  Meldrum,  ii.  243. 
Betteral  Well,  New  Machar,  ii.  226. 
Bettyhill,  in  Farr,  i.  419. 
Bhrodichan,  Loch,  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Bhruach,  Loch,  Duthil,  i.  345. 
Bible  Stone,  Birnie,  i.  129. 
Bieldside,  residence,  Peterculter,  ii.  368. 
Bigga,  isle,  Shetland,  i.  126. 
BIGGAR,  town,  Lanark,  i.  126. 
Biggar  Water,  Biggar,  i.  127  ;  Broughton, 

155  ;   Skirling,  ii.  467. 
Bighouse,  seat,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Big  Rock,  mountain,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Bilbo,  in  Crimond,  i.  237. 
Bilsdean,  hamlet,  Haddington,  i.   128,    ii. 

327. 
Bilston,  burn,  Lasswade,  ii.  154. 
Bimar,  in  Inverkeithing,  i.  573. 
Bin  Hill,  Cullen,  i.  245. 
Binarty,  hill,  Ballingry,  i.  95. 
Binchennin,  hills,  Forfarshire,  i.  440. 
Binean,  hill,  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 
Binghill,  residence,  Peterculter,  ii.  368. 
Binks,  house,  Queensferry,  ii.  398. 
Binliga,  hill,  Stobo,  ii.  498. 
Binn,  hill,  Kinfauns,  ii.  73. 
Binnan  Hill,  in  Straiton,  ii.  506. 
Binnaness  Voe,  in  Tingwall,  ii.  541. 
Binnans,  hill,  Greenock,  i.  525. 
Binning  Wood,  Whitekirk,  ii.  605. 
Binns,  hill,  in  Abercorn,  Linlithgow,  i.  4. 
Binns  House,  seat,  in  Abercorn,  Linlithgow, 

i.  4. 
Binny  Craig,  hill,  Linlithgow,  ii.  183. 


INDEX. 


Binny,  East,  Linlithgow,  ii.  183. 
Birdstoxe,  village,  Stirling,  i.  128. 
Birghaji,  village,  Berwick,  i.  128.  355. 
Birkeubog,  seat,  Fordyce,  i.  438. 
Birkenside,  Legerwood,  ii.  161. 
Birkhall,  house,  in  Glenmuick,  i.  508. 
Birkhill,  Balmerino,  Fife,  i.  98. 
Birkhill-Feus,  Liffand  Benvie,  ii.  179. 
Birnam  Hill,  Perth,  ii.  365. 
Birnam  Lodge,  and  Cottage,  Dunkeld,i.  331 . 
Birnie,  parish,  Elgin,  i.  128. 
Birns  Water,  Bolton,  i.  140. 
Birrens,  Middlebie,  ii.  252. 
Birsay  and  Harray,  Orkney,  i.  129. 
Birse,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  130 — i.  31. 
Bishop  Loch,  Old  Monkland,  i.  164,  ii.  269. 
Bishopmill,  village,  Elgin,  i.  130,  ii.  481, 

482. 
Bishopric,  district,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 
Bishopsbridge,  hamlet,  Lanark,  i.  130 
Bishop's  Burn,  in  Wigton,  ii.  612. 
Bishop's  Forest,  hill,  Kirkpatrick-Irongray, 

ii.  124. 
Bishop's  Forest,  Nigg,  ii.  318. 
Bishop's  Hill,  Portmoak,  ii.  384,  458. 
Bishop's  Isle,  Inverness,  i.  118. 
Bishop's  Loch,  New  Machar,  ii.  225. 
Bishop's  Walk,  Dunblane,  i.  314. 
Bishopton,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  131,  405. 
Bishopton-Ridge,  Renfrewshire,  i.  489. 
Blackadder,  river,  Edrom,  i.  394,  395  ;  Fogo, 

435  ;  Greenlaw,  521  ;  Westruther,  ii.601. 
Blackadder  House,  Edrom,  i.  395. 
Black-Andrew,  hill,  Selkirkshire,  ii.  46] . 
Blaekbog,  castle,  New  Cumnock,  i.  253. 
Blackbraes,  in  Muiravonside,  ii.  290. 
Black  Bum,  Blackness,  i.  131. 
Black  Burn,  rivulet,  Rafford,  ii.  400. 
Blackburn,  stream,  Castleton,  i.  190. 
Blackburn,  stream,  Crawfordjohn,  i.  231. 
Blackburn,  hamlet,  Kinnellar,  ii.  86. 
Blackburn,  village,  Linlithgow,  i.  131,  ii. 

191. 
Black  Cairn,  eminence,  Newburgh,  ii.  308. 
Black  Cart,  river.     See  Cart,  Black. 
Black  Castle,  in  Garvald  and  Bara,  i.  467. 
Black-Craig,  Blantyre,  i.  136. 
Blaekcraig,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320. 
Blackcraig,  estate,  Blairgowrie,  i.  134. 
Blaekcraig,  lands,  Ecclesmachan,  i.  356. 
Blackcraig,  mountain,  New  Cumnock,  i.  253. 
Black  Devon,  river.     See  Devon,  Black. 
Blackdikes,  Kettle,  ii.  15. 
Black  Dyke,  Eckford,  i.  358. 
Black-Earnside,  forest,  Dunbarny,  i.  312. 
Blackerstone,  in  Longformacus  and  Ellim, 

ii.  211,212. 
Black  Esk.     See  Esk,  Black. 
Blackethouse,  seat,  Kirtle,  ii.  132. 
Blacket-House,  stronghold,    Middlebie,   ii. 

253. 
Blackford,  parish,  Perth,  i.  131. 
Blackford  Hills,  Edinburghshire,  i.  391. 
Blackball,  Paisley,  ii.  342. 
Blackhall,  seat,  Strachan,  ii.  504,  505. 
Black  Hill,  Tynron,  ii.  570. 
Blaekhill,  near  Glasgow,  i.  488,  ii.  270. 
Blackhill,  Logie  Easter,  ii.  208. 
Blaekhill,  Peterhead,  ii.  370. 
Blackhill,  eminence,  Earlstoun,  i.  352. 
Black  Hillock,  in  Auldearn,  i.  83. 
Blackhills,  near  Elgin,  i.  398. 
Blackhouse  Heights,  Yarrow,  ii.  617. 
Vol.  I.— 601 


Blackiemuir,  lands,  Laurencekirk,  ii.  1 57. 

Black  Isle,  district,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 
118,  430. 

Black  Jack,  castle,  Craig,  i.  222. 

Black-Larg  Hill,  Sancpahar,  ii.  453. 

Blaeklaw,  hill,  Lundie  and  Fowlis,  ii.  221. 

Black  Loch,  Dumfries,  i.  307. 

Black  Loch,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 

Black  Loch,  Mearns,  ii.  242. 

Black  Loch,  Great,  Slamannan,  ii.  469. 

Black  Loch,  Little,  Slamannan,  ii.  469. 

Blacklunans,  in  Alyth,  Forfar,  i.  43. 

Blackmill,  bay,  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchattan, 
ii.  19. 

Black  Mount,  in  Walston,  ii.  590. 

Blackness,  lands,  Liffand  Benvie,  ii.  178. 

Blackness,  village,  Linlithgow,  i.  131,  186. 

Blackpots,  near  Whitehills,  Banff,  ii.  604. 

Blackridge,  village,  Linlithgow,  i.  132,  ii. 
553. 

Blackshaws,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  164. 

Blackshiels,  hamlet,  Fala,  i.  142. 

Blaekstone,  lands,  Kilbarchan,  ii.  17, 188. 

Black  Tower,  Hawick,  i.  538,  539. 

Blackup  Scars,  Heriot,  i.  541. 

Blackwall  House,  Paisley,  ii.  344. 

Blackwater  of  Dee,  Balmaghie,  i.  97. 

Black  Water,  Methlick,  ii.  250. 

Blackwater,  stream,  Cabrach,  i.  163. 

Blackwater,  stream,  Dairy,  i.  267. 

Blackwater,  stream,  Perthshire  ;  Bendochy, 
i.  117  ;  Blairgowrie,  134  ;  Kirkmichael, 
ii.  118. 

Blackwater-Foot,  cairn,  Kilmorie,  ii.  52. 

Blackwood,  estate,  Keir,  ii.  2. 

Bladnoch,  village,  Wigton,  i.  132. 

Bladnoch,  stream,  Kirkinner,  ii.  107  ;  Kirk- 
owan,  121  ;  Penninghame,  354. 

Blaeloch-head,  in  Beith,  i.  114. 
Blaiky's  Point,  Ayton,  i.  90. 

Blainslie,  Upper,  Melrose,  ii.  246. 
Blair,  hill,  Blairgowrie,  i.  133,  134, 135. 

Blair,  lands,  Carnock,  i.  184. 
Blair,  lands,  Dairy,  i.  267. 
Blair,  Mount,  Glenisla,  i.  506. 
Blair-Adam,  Cleish,  i.  201,  202  ;  ii.  91. 
Blair- Atholl,  parish,  Perth,  i.  132. 
Blairburn,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  133. 
Blair  Castle,  Culross,  i.  247. 
Blairdaff,  in  Chapel  of  Garioch,  i.  465. 
Blair-Drummoud,  Kincardine  in  Monteith, 

ii.  69. 
Blairfindy,  in  Inveraven,  i.  568. 
BLAIRGOWRIE,  burgh,  Perth,  i.  133— i. 

117. 
Blair  Hill,  in  Dailly,  i.  259. 
Blairingone,  village,  Perth,  i.  135,  451. 
Blair-in-roan,  hill,  Muthill,  ii.  296,  297. 
Blair-Logie,  village,  Perth,  i.  ]  33. 
Blairmore,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  135. 
Blairmormond,  estate,  Loninay,  ii.  214. 
Blair-mucks,  lands,  Shotts,  i.  119. 
Blair-na-coi,  field,  Knockbain,  ii.  137. 
Blairquhan  Castle,  ii.  507. 
Blairs,  estate,  Maryculter,  ii.  235. 
Blairs,  loch,  Rafford,  ii.  400. 
Blair-Tummock,  in  Old  Monkland,  i.  241, 

ii.  270. 
Blakelaw,  hill,  Linton,  ii.  187. 
Blalowne,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
Blane,  river,  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 
Blanefield,  in  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 
Blane's,  St.,  hill,  Kingarth,  ii.  74. 


Blantyre,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  135. 

Blaressen  Spout-head,  Killearn,  ii.  35. 

Blar'   na'n  Ceann,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i. 
216,  435. 

Blatum  Bulgium,  Middlebie,  ii.  252. 

Blaven,  height,  Skye,  ii.  467. 

Blebo-Craigs,  village,  Fife,  i.  137. 

Blebo  House,  Kemback,  ii.  10. 

Blelack,  seat,  Logie-Coldstone,  ii.  207. 

Blelock,  Middle,  farm,  Auchtergaven,  i.  79. 

Blervie,  castle,  Rafford,  ii.  399,  400. 

Bloak,  hamlet,  Stewarton,  ii.  488. 

Bloekairn,  farm,  Baldernock,i.  92. 

Bloody  Bay,  isle  of  Mull,  ii.  292. 

Bloodylaws,  height,  Oxnam,  ii.  335. 

Bloody  Pits,  in  Gamrie,  i.  462. 

Bloomhill,  house,  Cardross,  i.  178. 

Bluehill,  Banffshire,  i.  27. 

Blue  Mull  Sound,  Shetland,  i.  423. 

Blue-Row,  hamlet,  Dumbarton,  i.  137. 

Bluevale,  village,  Glasgow,  i.  137. 

Blythswood,  Glasgow,  i.  484. 

Blythswood,  lands,  Inchinnan,  i.  558. 

Boadsberry,  hill,  Crawford,  i.  230. 

Boarhili.s,  village,  Fife,  i.  137— i.  45. 

Boar's  Head,  rock,  Urquhart,  ii.  581. 

Boat  Cave,  Island  of  Staffa,  ii.  483. 

Boat-Green,  harbour,  Gatehouse,  i.  470. 

Boat  of  Bridge,  Boharm,  i.  138. 

Boath,  estate,  Auldearn,  i.  82. 

Boehle,  hill,  Inveraven,  i.  567. 

Boddam,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  137. 

Boddam  Castle,  Peterhead,  ii.  370. 

Boddin,  point,  Craig,  i.  222. 

Bodisbeck,  hill,  Moffat,  ii.  260. 

Boghall,  castle,  Biggar,  i.  127,  128. 

Boghead,  Lochwinnoeh,  ii.  202. 

Boghead,  residence,  Bathgate,  i.  112. 

Boghead,  village,  Lanark,  i.  137. 

Bogie,  river,  Auchindoir,  i.  75  ;  Kinneth- 
mont,  ii.  86. 

Bogie,  Wester,  lands,  in  Abbotshall,  Fife,  i. 
1,2. 

Bogmore,  in  Coull,  Aberdeen,  i.  219. 

Bogrie,  hill,  Dunscore,  i.  338. 

Bogton,  lake,  Dalmellington,  i.  264. 

Boharm,  parish,  Elgin  and  Banff,  i.  137. 

Boilhandy,  in  Strathdon,  ii.  513. 

Boiling  Well,  spring,  Scoonie,  ii.  457. 

Boindie,  parish,  Banff,  i.  138— i.  103. 

Boindie,  stream,  Banff,  i.  103,  138. 

Boisdale,  loch,  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 

Bole,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  139. 

Boleskine  and  Abertarff,  parish,  Inver- 
ness, i.  139. 

Bolfracks,  district,  Fortiugal,  i.  449. 

Bolshan,  lauds,  Kinnell,  ii.  85. 

Bolton,  parish,  Haddington,  i.  1 40. 

Bolton  Water.     See  Gifford  Water. 

Bombie,  castle,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  103. 

Bona,  old  parish,  Inverness,  i.  577,  578. 

Bon-Accord,  district,  Aberdeen,  i.  140. 

Bonally,  House  of,  Colinton,  i.  211. 

Bonar,  village,  Sutherland,  i.  140, 234,  ii.  68. 

Boncastle,  mound,  Douglas,  i.  288. 

Bonchester,  hill,  Hobkirk,  i.  543. 

Bones'Barn,Kilninver  and  Kilmelford,  ii.  57. 

Bo'ness.     See  Borrowstonnness. 

Bonessan,    village,   Kilfinichen  and   Kilvi- 

ceuen,  ii.  33. 
Bongate,  village,  Roxburgh,  L  141. 
Bonhard,  seat,  Linlithgowshire,  ii.  185. 
Bonhill,  parish,  Dumbarton,  i.  141,  ii.  222. 

4  H 


INDEX. 


Boxjedward,  village,  Roxburgh, i.  141,587- 
Boxkle,  village,  Lanark,  i.  142. 
Bonniugton,  Lanark,  ii.  143. 
Boxxixgtox,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  142. 
Bonxixgton,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  142. 
Bonnington  House,  Ratho,  ii.  404. 
Bonny,  river,  Bonnybridge,  i.  142,  279. 
Boxxybridge,  village,  Stirling,  i.  142. 
Bonnyrnuir,  Stirlingshire,  i.  142. 
Boxxyeigg,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  142. 
Bonnyside,  near  Falkirk,  i.  414. 
Bonnytown,  estate,  Marytown,  ii.  236. 
Boon  Hill,  Legerwood,  ii.  160,  161. 
Booshala.     See  Buachaille. 
Boquhan,  Stirlingshire,  i.  463,  ii.  94. 
Boea  Holm,  inRendal,  Orkney,  i.  142. 
Bord,  loch,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  108. 
Bore,  spring,  Elderslie,  i.  396. 
Bored  Stone,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  319. 
Boreland,  castle,  Old  Cumnock,  i.  254. 
Boreland,  farm,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 
Boeelaxd,  village,  Fife,  i.  142. 
Boreeay,  isle,  Inverness,  i.  142. 
Borg,  Pictish  house,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Borgie,  stream,  Tongue,  ii.  548. 
Boegue,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  142. 
Borland,  farm,  Walston,  ii.  590. 
Borland,  mansion,  Killin,  ii.  37- 
Borland-Park,  village,  Perth,  i.  143. 
Borlands,  Kettins,  ii.  15. 
Borley,  Loch,  Burness,  i.  342. 
Borness,  Borgue,  i.  142. 
Borough  Moor,  lands,  Edinburgh,  i.   362, 

363,  391. 
Boroughmuir,  Linlithgow,  ii.  184. 
Boroughmuir-Head,  Morningside,  ii.  280. 
Borough  Roods,  lands,  Langholm,  ii.  147. 
Borron  Point,  Kirkbean,  ii.  95,  96. 
Borrovvston,  in  Reay  parish,  ii.  409. 
Boeeowstoux,  hamlet,  Linlithgow,  i.  143. 
Borrowstounness,    burgh,    Linlithgow,  i. 

143. 
Boethwick,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  144. 
Borthwick,  vale,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 
Borthwickbrae,  mansion,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 
Borthwickshiels,  mansion,  Roberton,  ii.  422- 
Borve,  in  Barvas,  i.  109. 
Borve,  castle,  in  South  Uist,  ii.  677- 
Borvie,  district,  Skye,  ii.  473. 
Bostox,  in  Dunse,  Berwick',  i.  146. 
Boston,  loch,  Dairy,  i.  267. 
Boswell's,  St.,  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  146. 
Boterie,  Knockando,  ii.  136. 
Bothan's.   St.,  old   parish,  Haddington,   ii. 

620,  621. 
Bothkexxae,  parish,  Stirling,  i.  146. 
Bothwell,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  147,  532. 
Bothwell-Bridge,  Lanark,  i.  147, 148. 
Bothwell-Haugh,  Lanark,  i.  1 47- 
Bothwell  Water,  Spott  parish,  ii.  479. 
Botripiixie,  parish,  Banff,  i.  148. 
Bouetie,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  148. 
Bourtree  Hill,  Irvine,  i.'  504. 
Bousta,  hamlet,  in  Fair,  i.  411. 
Bow  Butts,  in  Glencairn,  i.  502. 
Bow-Butts,  in  Strachan,  ii.  505. 
Bow  Castle,  Stow  parish,  ii.  504. 
Bowden,  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  149. 
Bowden,  hill,  Kettle,  ii.  16. 
Bowden  Hill,  Torphichen,  ii.  552,  553. 
Bower,  parish,  Caithness,  i.  150,  ii.  594. 
Bowerhouse,  mansion,  Spott  parish,  ii.  479. 
Bowhill,  seat,  Selkirk  parish,  ii.  460. 
CO  2 


Bow-Knap,  rock,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 

Bowland,  mansion,  Stow,  ii.  504. 

Bowlixg-Bay,  village,  Dumbarton,  i.  150, 
ii.  59. 

Bowmont,  Roxburghshire,  i.  358,  ii.  621. 

Bowmore,  village,  Argyll,  i.  150,  585. 

Bowriefauld,  village,  Forfar,  i.  151. 

Boyn,  castle,  Boindie,  i,  139. 

Boyn,  district,  Banffshire,  i.  105. 

Boyn,  river,  Boindie,  i.  138,  139. 

Boyndie,  Banff.     See  Boindie. 

Boyndlie,  in  Tyrie,  ii.  571. 

Boynes-Mill,  house,  Forgue,  i.  444. 

Braal,  castle,  Halkirk,  i.  531. 

Brabster  House,  Canisbay,  i.  176. 

Bracadale,  parish,  Inverness,  i.  151. 

Brack,  loch,  Balmaclellan,  i.  95,  96. 

Bracholy,  former  parish,  Pettie,  ii.  370. 

Brackla,  in  Cawdor,  i.  194. 

Braekland,  in  Callander,  i.  168. 

Braco,  in  Grange,  Banff,  i.  518. 

Beaco,  village,  Perth,  i.  151. 
Bractullo,  mound,  Kirkden,  ii.  105.' 
Braden,  Loch,  in  Straiton,  ii.  506. 
Brae,  The,  Campsie,  i.  174. 
Brae-Dunstan,  eminence,  Eccles,  i.  355. 
Braehead,  village,  Lanark,  i.  151,  ii.  23. 
Brae-Heads,  suburb,  Cupar,  i.  255. 
Braelangwell,  lands,  Kirkmichael  and  Culli- 

cudden,  ii.  119. 
Braelangwell  Lodge,  Kincardine,  ii.  68 
Brae  Lochaber,  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  49. 
Braemar,  Aberdeen.     See  Crathie,  and  Cas- 
tletown. 
Brae-Marr,  district,  Midmar,  ii.  253. 
Brae-Moray,  district,  Edinkillie,  i.  392. 
Brae-Riach,  hill,  Rothiemurchus,  ii.  436. 
Braeriach,  mountain,  in  Aberdeenshire,  i.  22. 
Braeroddach,  in  Aboyne,  Aberdeen,  i.  31. 
Braes,  in  Gartly,  Aberdeen,  i.  465. 
Bragar,  in  Barvas,  i.  109. 
Bragrum,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  151. 
Brahan  Castle,  in  Urray,  ii.  585,  586. 
Braid,  stream,  Duddingston,  i.  297. 
Braid  Hills,  Edinburghshire,  i.  391. 
Braidwood,  village,  Lanark,  i.  151. 
Braidwood  House,  Carluke,  i.  180,  181. 
Braky,  Easter,  lands,  Kinnell,  ii.  85. 
Braky,  Wester,  lands,  Kinnell,  ii.  85. 
Bran,  river,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  331,  ii.  365. 
Brand's  Hill,  St.  Cyrus,  i.  258. 
Branxliolme,  castle,  Hawick,  i.  539. 
Brany,  loch,  Cortachy,  i.  218. 
Brany,  stream,  Lochlee,  ii.  196. 
Brawlbin,  hill,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Breacacha,  in  Coll,  Argyll,  ii.  544,  545. 
Breadalbane,  district,  Perth,  ii.  364. 
Breakrow,  in  Reay  parish,  ii.  409. 
BRECHIN,  burgh,  Forfar,  i.  151. 
Breckry,  stream,  Southend,  ii.  477- 
Breconbeds,  Kirtle,  ii.  133. 
Breda,  seat,  in  Alford,  Aberdeen,  i.  36. 
Breich,  stream,  Whitburn,  ii.  603. 
Brenahegleish,  ravine,  Latheron,  ii.  154. 
Breochel,  castle,   Rasay  island,  ii.  402. 
Bressay,  Burra,  and  Quarff,  parish, i.  153. 
Briarachan,  river,  Moulin,  ii.  284. 
Brickfield,  near  Blackness,  i.  131. 
Bridekirk,  Dumfries.     See  Brydekirlc. 
Bride's,  St.,  Ring,  Monifieth,  ii.  264. 
Bridge  of  Allan.    See  Allan,  Bridge  of.   And 
all  places  Jiaving  a  similar  distinguishing 
prefix  will  be  found  under  the  proper  name. 


Bridgecastle,  lands,  Torphichen,  ii.  553. 
Bridge-End,  Maxwelltown,  ii.  239. 
Bridgegate,  Glasgow,  late  quoad  sacra  pa- 
rish, i.  496. 
Bridgend,  old  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  229. 
Bridgend,  in  Aberdour,  Aberdeen,  i.  23. 
Bridgend,  village,  Argyll,  i.  154,  ii.  16. 
Bridgend,  Forfar,  i.  154. 
Bridgend,  near  Glasgow,  i.  512. 
Bridgend,  Kilchoman,  ii.  27. 
Bridgend,  village,  Perth,  i.  154. 
Bridgend,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  154. 
Beidgexd,  village,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i. 

154. 
Beidgexd,  South,  village,  Perth,  i.  154. 
Bridgend,    West,   village,   Dumbarton,   i. 

154. 
Beidgeness,  village,  Linlithgow,  i.  154,  186. 
Bridgeton,  St.  Cyrus,  i.  258,  259. 
Bridgeton,  district,  Glasgow,  i.  154. 
Bridgetown,  village,  Perth,  i.  154. 
Brierbush,  hamlet,  Penpont,  ii.  356. 
Briery- Yards,  house,  Wilton,  ii.  615. 
Brighton,  lauds,  Polmont,  ii.  378. 
Brindister  Voe,   Sandsting  and   Aithsting, 

ii.  450. 
Brisbane,  vale,  Largs,  ii.  151  ;  House,  152. 
Broad   Bay,  Stornoway   parish,  Lewis,  ii. 

502. 
Broadfield,  mansion,  Kilmalcolm,  ii.  39. 
Broadford,  near  Aberdeen,  i.  13. 
Broadford,  village,  Strath,  ii.  509. 
Broadhaven,  village,  Caithness,  i.  155. 
Broad  Law,  in  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  568. 
Broadlee,  farm,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 
Broadlie,  in  Neilston,  ii.  301. 
Broad-Meadows,  estate,  Hutton,  i.  553. 
Broadmeadows,  mansion,  Selkirk  parish,  ii. 

460. 
Broad  Moss,  common,  Rattray,  ii.  407. 
Broadsea,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  155. 
Broatshouse,    mansion,   Kirkpatrick-Flem- 

ing,  ii.  124. 
Brook,  burn,  Eastwood,  i.  354. 
Brocklehurst,  Old,  hamlet,  Dumfries,  i, 

155. 
Brodick,  village,  Bute,  i.  155,  ii.  20,  21,  22. 
Brodie,  in  Dyke  and  Moy,  i.  346,  347. 
Broich,  Crieff,  i.  236. 
Broich,  burn,  Kippen,  ii.  94  ;  house,  95. 
Broigar,  bridge,  Firth  and  Stenness,  i.  432. 
Brolas,  district,  Kilfinichen  and  Kilviceuen, 

ii.  32,  33. 
Brony,  valley,  Ellon,  i.  401,  402. 
Brook,  West,  seat,  Currie,  i.  258. 
Brooklands,  mansion,  Kirkpatrick-Durham, 

ii.  122. 
Broom,  river,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Broom  Acres,  in  Cummertrees,  i.  252. 
Broom,  Loch,  Dunkeld,  i.  329. 
Broom,  Loch,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192,  193. 
Broom,  Little  Loch,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Broom,  Little,  river,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Broomhall,  lands,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 
Broomhall,  seat,  Charleston,  i.  197- 
Broomhill,  lands,  Larkhall,  i.  270,  ii.  152. 
Broomhill,  loch,  Lochmaben,  ii.  198. 
Broomhill,  mansion,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 
Broomholm,  lands,  Langholm,  ii.  146,  147. 
Broomhouse,  in  Edrom,  i.  394. 
Broomhouse,  Easter,  farm,  Spott  parish,  ii. 

479. 
Broomielaw,  Glasgow,  i.  488. 


INDEX. 


Broomknoll,  Lanark.     See  Airdrie. 

Broomlands,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  155. 

Broomly,  house,  in  Bonhill,  i.  141. 

Broomyleas,  height,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 

Brora,  village,  river,  loeh,  Sutherland,  i. 
155,  204  ;  ii.  423. 

Brosaig,  loch,  Argyll,  i.  65. 

Brother  Isle,  Shetland,  i.  155. 

Brother  Loch,  Mearns,  ii.  242. 

Brotherton,  in  Benholme,  i.  117,  118. 

Brothock,  river,  Arbroath,  i.  58. 

Brough,  castle,  Delting,  i.  278. 

Brough,  haven,  Dunnet,  i.  333. 

Brough-Head,  Elgin.     See  Burgh-Head. 

Brough  Lodge,  residence,  Shetland,  ii.  403. 

Broughton,    Glenholh,     and     Kilbucho, 
Peebles,  i.  155. 

Broughty-Ferry,  village,  Forfar,  i.   156, 
ii.  264. 

Brow,  in  Ruthwell  parish,  ii.  445. 

Brow,  mine,  Leadhills,  ii.  159. 

Brown,  Loeh,  Mauchline,  ii.  237. 

Brown-  Carrick  Hill,  Maybole,  ii.  241. 

Brownfield,  near  Glasgow,  i.  156. 

Brown  Head,  Kilraorie,  ii.  51. 

Brownieside,  lands,  Clarkston,  i.  200. 

Brownside,  in  Neilston,  ii.  300. 

Brownside  Hill,  in  Alvah,  Banff,  i.  41. 

Broxburn,  river,  Spott  parish,  ii.  479. 

Broxburn,  village,    Linlithgow,  i.   156,  ii. 
580. 

Broxmouth  Park,  Dunbar,  i.  311,  312. 

Bruan,  Latheron,  ii.  154,  155. 

Bruar,  stream,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  132. 

Bruce  Castle,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  321. 

Bruce,  farm,  Cummertrees,  i.  252. 

Brucefield,  Clackmannan,  i.  199. 

Bruckenheugh,  hill,  Dunlop,  i.  332. 

Brunstaue,  stream,  Duddingston,  i.  297. 

Brunstane  Castle,  Penicuick,  ii.  352. 

Brunt,  hill,  Dunbar,  i.  311. 

Bruntaburn,  in  Westruther,  ii.  602. 

Brunton,  hamlet,  Fife,  i.  156. 

Brunton,  village,  Creich,  ii.  223. 

Bruray,  isle,  Skerries,  Shetland,  ii.  466. 

Brux,  Kildrummy,  ii.  31. 

Bruxie,  in  Old  Deer,  i.  276. 

Bruxiehill,  in  Arbuthnott,  i.  59, 

Brydekirk,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  156. 

Buachail-Etive,  mountains,  Ardchattan,   i. 
61,  09. 

Buachaille,  isle,  near  Staffa,  ii.  482. 

Buccleuch,  late  quoad  sacra  parish,  Edin- 
burgh, i.  386. 

Buccleuchs,  farmsteads,  Ettrick,  i.  408. 

Buehan,  district,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  21,  105. 

Buchanan,  parish,  Stirling,  i.  157,  ii.  222. 

Buchanhaven,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  157. 

Buehan  Ness,  Peterhead,  ii.  369. 

Buchanty,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  158. 

Buchany,  village,  Perth,  i.  158. 

Bucharin,  castle,  Boharm,  i.  137,  138. 

Bucharn,  farm,  Gartly,  i.  466. 

Bucholie,  castle,  Caithness,  i.  175. 

Buck  of  Cabraeh,  Auchindoir,  i.  75. 

Bucket,  stream,  Glenbucket,  i.  501. 

Buckhaven,  village,  Fife,  i.  158,  ii.  597. 

Buckholmside,  village,  Roxburgh,  i.  158. 

Buckie,  village,  Banff,  i.  158,  ii.  405. 

Buckie,  Bum  of,  Alford,  Aberdeen,  i.  35. 

Buckieburn,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  321. 

Buckie  Den,  Lunan,  ii.  220. 

Buck  Inch,  isle,  Renfrew,  ii.  413. 
603 


Bucklerhead,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  158. 
Bucklyvie,  village,  Stirling,  i.  158. 
Buckwell,  in  Walston,  ii.  590. 
Buddo,  rock,  St.  Andrew's,  i.  48. 
Buffs  of  Lewis,  Island  of  Lewis,  ii.  176. 
Buie,  stream,  Ardchattan,  i.  62. 
Buitterlach,  in  Inveraven,  i.  568. 
Buittle,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  158. 
Bullers-Buchan,  hamlet,  Aberdeen,  i.  159. 
Bullion,  in  Liff  and  Benvie,  ii.  194. 
Bullion  Well,  Ecclesmachan,  i.  356. 
Bunachton,  loeh,  Daviot,  i.  274. 
Bunawe,  Argyll,  i.  61,  62,  6!)  ;  ii.  288. 
Bunchrew,  mansion,  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 
Bundaloch.     See  Domie. 
Buness,  house,  Unst,  ii.  579. 
Bunkle  and  Preston,  parish,  Berwick,  i. 

159. 
Bunkle  Edge,  hill,  i.  159. 
Bunroy,  in  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  49. 
Bunty,  village,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  31,  197. 
Burdiehouse,  Liberton,  ii.  178. 
Burg,  promontory,  Kilfmichen  and   Kilvi- 

ceuen,  ii.  33. 
Burgh-Head,  village,  Elgin,  i.   160,  299. 
Burghill,  near  Brechin,  i.  152. 
Burgie,  in  RafFord,  ii.  399,  400. 
Burican,  Kilmorie,  ii.  52. 
Burleigh  Castle,  Orwell,  ii.  334. 
Burnbanks,  hamlet,  Kincardine,  i.  160. 
Burnbrae,  house,  Calder,  i.  167. 
Burnbridge,  hamlet,  Stirling,  i.  160. 
Burness,  Orkney.     See  Cross. 
Burness,  house,  Firth  and  Stenness,  i.  432. 
Burness,  lake,  Westray,  ii.  600. 
Burnfoot,  in  Glendevon,  i.  505. 
Burnfoot,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  202. 
Burnfoot,  bay,  Rerwick,  ii.  416. 
Burnfoot,  mansion,  Westerkirk,  ii.  599. 
Burnfoot,  seat,  Middlebie,  ii.  253. 
Burngrove,  house,  Wilton,  ii.  615. 
Burnhaven,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  160. 
Burnhead,  Carluke,  i.  181. 
Burnhead,  hamlet,  Penpont,  ii.  356. 
Burn  House,  Fettercairn,  i.  425. 
Burnhouse,  mansion,  Stow,  ii.  504. 
Burnmouth,  village,  i.  90. 
Burnock  Water,  Ochiltree,  ii.  326. 
Burns,  hamlet,  Fife,  i.  160. 
Burnside,  in  Dirleton,  i.  282. 
Burnside,  in  Inveraven,  i.  568. 
Burnside,  hill,  Rescobie,  ii.  417. 
Burnside,  mansion,  Rathven,  ii.  405. 
Burnswark,  hill,  Hoddam,  i.  544. 
Burntisland,  burgh,  Fife,  i.  160,  427. 
Burntsfield  House,  Morningside,  ii.  280. 
Burntsfield-Links,  Morningside,  i.  388,  ii. 

280. 
Bumturk,  Kettle,  ii.  15. 
Burra  and  Quarff,  in  Bressay,  Shetland, 

i.  153,  154,  162. 
Burra  Firth,  Unst,  ii.  578. 
Burrafirth,   West,  in  Sandsting  and  Aith- 

sting,  ii.  450. 
Burra  Sound,  Bressay,  i.  153. 
Burra  Voe,  in  Yell,  ii.  619. 
Burray,  isle,  Orkney,  i.  162. 
Burreltown,  village,  Perth,  i.  162. 
Burrion  Castle,  North  Ronaldshay,  Orkney, 

ii.  424. 
Burrow  Head,  Whithorn,  ii.  606. 
Burrowhead,  in  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 
Burwardstown,  Borrowstounness,  i.  143. 


Busby,  village,  Lanark  and   Renfrew,    i. 

162,  ii.  242. 
Busby  Castle,  Kilmaurs,  ii.  46. 
Bush,  house,  Glencross,  i.  504. 
Bushyhill,  village,  Lanark,  i.  162. 
Busta,  house,  Delting,  i.  277,  278. 
Bute,  Isle  of,  Buteshire,  i.  162. 
Bute,  North,  parish,  Buteshire,  i.  162. 
BUTESHIRE,  i.  163. 
Buttergask,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  163. 
Butterstone,  loch,  Caputh,  i.  177- 
Butts,  in  Renfrew  parish,  ii.  414. 
Buy,  Loch,  Isle  of  Mull,  ii.  292,  551. 
Byrecleugh,  Longformacus   and  EUim,  ii. 

211,212. 
Byth  House,  King-Edward  parish,  ii.  75- 
Byth,  New.     See  Newbyth. 


Caaf,  river,  Dairy,  i.  266,  207. 
Caanlochan,  in  Glenisla,  i.  506. 
Cabrach,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  163. 
Cadboll,  castle,  Fearn,  i.  420. 
Caddam,  village,  Cupar- Angus,  i.  257. 
Caddel,  burn,  Ardrossan,  Ayr,  i.  68. 
Cadden,  castle,  Kinneff,  ii.  84. 
Cadder,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  164. 
Cadder,  river,  Avondale,  i.  84. 
Cademuir,  farm,  Manor  parish,  ii.  230. 
Cadger's  Brig,  in  Biggar,  i.  127. 
Cadgerton,  village,  Monifieth,  ii.  263. 
Cadzow,  ancient  parish,  Lanark,  i.  532, 534, 

535. 
Caerbantorigum,  fort,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  1 00. 
Caerdean,  mansion,  Meigle,  ii.  243. 
Caerketton,  in  Edinburghshire,  i.  211,  391. 
Caerlanrig,  in  Cavers,  i.  194. 
Caerlaverock,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  161. 
Caerwinning,  hill,  Dairy,  i.  267. 
Cailm,  loch,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Cairn,  stream,  Dumfries,  i.  219  ;  Dunscore, 

338  ;  Glencairn,  502  ;  Kirkpatrick-lron- 

gray,  ii.  124. 
Cairn  of  Dolt,  hill,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  113. 
Cairn  of  Ord,  Banff,  i.  103. 
Cairnakay,  hill,  Banffshire,  i.  27. 
Caim-a-Mount,  Kincardineshire,  ii.  7L 
Cairnapple,  Bathgate,  i.  111. 
Cairn-Arc,  Inverness,  i.  578. 
Cairn-a-Vain,  Orwell,  ii.  334. 
Cairn-a-Veil,  Kinnellar,  ii.  85. 
Cairnbarrow,  mountain,  Kirkcudbright,  ii. 

103. 
Cairnbeddie,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  165,  ii.  233. 
Cairnbroe,  in  Bothwell,  i.  148,  546. 
Cairnbulg,   village,   Aberdeen,  i.    165,  ii. 

403. 
Cairnburghs,  isles,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore, 

ii.  54,  56,  560. 
Cairn-Chainachan,     hill,     Monivaird     and 

Strowan,  ii.  267. 
Caimehuinaig,  hill,  Kincardine,  ii.  68. 
Cairn-Coinneag,  mountain,  Rosskeen,  ii.  431. 
Cairn-Dui,  height,  Nairnshire,  ii.  299. 
Cairn-Edward,  Kells,  ii.  6. 
Cairness,  estate,  Lonmay,  ii.  214. 
Cairneyflappet,  castle,  Strathmiglo,  ii.  514. 
Cairney-Hill,  Perth.     See  Carnie-Hill. 
Cairneyhill,  village,  Fife,  i.  165. 
Caimey  Mount,  Carluke,  i.  181. 
Cairnfield,  in  Gairloeh,  i.  458. 
Cairnfield,  Kirkinner,  ii.  107. 

4H  2 


INDEX. 


Cairnfield,  mansion,  Rathven,  ii.  405. 
Cairngall,  mansion,  Longside,  ii.  213. 
Cairn-Geddes,  in  Arngask,  i.  70. 
Cairn-Glaschurn,  height,  Nairnshire,  ii.  299. 
Cairngorum,  mountain,  Kirkmiehael,ii.  116. 
Cairn-Greg,  Monifieth,  ii.  264. 
Cairn- Gregor,  in  Dunlichty,  i.  274. 
Cairn-gryffe,  peak,  Pettinain,  ii.  372. 
Cairnharrah,  hill,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  54. 
Cairn  Hill,  in  Fetteresso,  i.  427. 
Cairn-Hill,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  1 13. 
Cairnhill,  house,  Craigie,  i.  223. 
Cairn  Hills,  Calder,  i.  166,  167. 
Cairnie,  parish,  Aberdeen  and  Banff,  i.  165. 
Cairnie,  seat,  Kilconquhar,  ii.  29. 
Cairn-Irenan,  Killiernan,  ii.  36. 
Cairnkinnow,  eminence,  Penpont,  ii.  356. 
Cairnmonearn,  hill,  Durris,  i.  344. 
Cairnmore,  farm,  Logie-Coldstone,  ii.  207- 
Cairnmore,  hill,  Strathdon,  ii.  512. 
Cairnmuir  House,  Kirkurd,  ii.  127. 
Caimmure,  in  Caputb,  i.  178. 
Cairn-Naple,  hill,  Torphichen,  ii.  552. 
Cairnocay,  mountains,  Inveraven,  i.  567. 
Cairnpat,  hill,  Portpatrick,  ii.  388. 
Cairnrtam,  village,  Wigton,  i.  166,  556. 
Caim-Semblings,  Kinnellar,  ii.  85. 
Cairnsmuir,  house,  Minnigaff,  ii.  258. 
Cairnsmuir,  mountain,  Carsphairn,  i.  188. 
Cairnsmuir,  mountain,  Kirkmabreck,  ii.  111. 
Cairntable,  hill,  Muirkirk,  ii.  291. 
Cairntaggart,  hill,  Glenmuick,  i.  507. 
Cairnton,  Banchory-Ternan,  i.  101. 
Cairntoul,  hill,  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Cairnwilliam,  hill,  Moneymusk,  ii.  275. 
Cairston,  in  Stromness,  Orkney,  ii.  518. 
Caitha,  hamlet,  Stow,  ii.  504. 
CAITHNESS-SHIRE,  i.  166,  286. 
Cakemuir,  lands,  Cramond,  i.  228. 
Calair,  stream,  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 
Calanish,  in  Uig,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  574. 
Calehow,  or  Calkow.     See  Kelso. 
Calda  House,  Assynt,  i.  73. 
Caldanach,  lands,  Luss,  ii.  222. 
Caldan  Hill,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  319. 
Calder,  Inverness  and  Nairn.     See  Cawdor. 
Calder,  Lanark.     See  Cadder. 
Calder,  loch,  Halkirk,  i.  531 . 
Calder,  or  Rotten  Calder,  river,  Blantyre, 

i.  136  ;  East  Kilbride,  ii.  22. 
Calder,  river,  Kingussie,  ii.  81. 
Calder,  river,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  201. 
Calder  Bank  and  Braes,  village,  Lanark, 

i.  166,  545. 
Calder-Comitis,  Edinburgh,  i.  166. 
Calder,  East.     See  Kirknewton. 
Calder  Grove,  Cambuslang,  i.  170. 
Calder,  Mid,  parish,  Edinburgh,  166. 
Calder,  North,  river,  Both  well,  i.  147, 148  ; 

New  Monkland,  ii.  268. 
Calder,  South,  river,  Bothwell,  i.  147,  148  ; 

Cambusnethan,  170  ;  Dalziel,  271. 
Calder,  West,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  167. 
Calder  Works,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  270. 
Calderhall,    seat,    Kirknewton    and     East 

Calder,  ii.  120. 
Calderside,  Blantyre,  i.  136. 
Calderwood,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  22,  23. 
Caldham,  Marykirk,  ii.  235. 
Caldra  House,  in  Fogo,  i.  435. 
Caldron  Linn,  in  Fossoway,  i.  451. 
Caldwell  House,  Bcith,  i.  114. 
Caledonian  canal,  Inverness-shire,  i.  576. 
604 


Calf,  isle,  Argyll,  i.  168. 

Calf  Sound,  Eday,  ii.  519. 

Calgarry,  creek,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  ii. 

54. 
Callader,  loch,  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Callander,  parish,  Perth,  i.  168. 
Callart,  seat,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 
Callendar  House,  Falkirk,  i.  413,  414,  415. 
Callends,  mansion,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 
Callievar,  mountain,  Alford,  Aberdeen,  i.  35. 
Callum's,  hill,  Crieff,  i.  235. 
Cally,  mansion,   Gatehouse  of  Fleet,  i.  469, 

474. 
Cally,  Wester,  estate,  Blairgowrie,  i.  134. 
Calrossie,  seat,  Logie  Easter,  ii.  208. 
Calton,  district,  Glasgow,  i.  168. 
Calton  Hill,  Edinburgh,  i.  373,  377,  378. 
Calva,  harbour,  Eddrachillis,  i.  360. 
Calwattie,  bay,  Roseneath,  ii.  427. 
Cama,  loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
Cambo,  lands,  Kingsbarns,  ii.  79. 
Cambus,  river,  Kilmadock,  ii.  38. 
Cambus,   village,   Clackmannan,   i.   169— i. 

37,  38. 
Cambus,  Old.     See  Coclcburnspath. 
Cambusbarron,  village,  Stirling,  i.   169,  ii. 

321. 
Cambuscurry,  hill,  Edderton,i.  359. 
Cambuskenneth,  village,  Stirling,  i.  169. 
Cambuslang,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  169. 
Cambus-Michael,  ancient  parish,  St.  Mar- 
tin's, ii.  233. 
Cambusmore,  Kilmadock,  ii.  39. 
Cambusnethan,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  170. 
Cambus-Wallaee,  Biggar,  i.  128. 
Cambus- Wallace,  house,  Buchany,  i.  158. 
Camelon,  village,  Stirling,  i.  171. 
Cameron,  parish,  Fife,  i.  171. 
Cameron,  in  Bonhill,  i.  141,  ii.  222. 
Cameron-Bridge,  Markinch,  ii.  232. 
Camilla,  mansion,  and  loch,  Auchtertool,  i. 

81,  82. 
Camisendun,  bay,  Durness,  i.  343. 
Camis-Eskan,  estate,  Cardross,  i.  178. 
Camistinavaig,  loch,  Portree,  ii.  389. 
Camlachie,  village,  near  Glasgow,  i.  172. 
Camlodden,  in  Kilmichael-Glassary,  ii.  47. 
Cammusmore,  bay,  Kilmuir,  ii.  53. 
Campbell's  Cairns,  Knockando,  ii.  136. 
CAMPBELLTOWN,  burgh,  Argyll,  i.  172. 
Campbelton,  village,  Inverness,  i.   174 — i. 

63,  64. 
Camp  Castle,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 
Camp  Castle,  fort,  in  Aberlemno,  Forfar,  i.  27- 
Camperdown    House,   Liff  and  Benvie,   ii. 

179,  180. 
Camp  Field,  Monymusk,  ii.  275. 
Campfield,  residence,  Kincardine  O'Neil,  ii. 

70. 

Camp  Hill,  in  Yetholm,  ii.  622. 
Camphill,  seat,  Lumphanan,  ii.  219. 
Campie,  seat,  Inveresk,  ii.  323. 
Camp-Know,  Blantyre,  i.  136. 
Cample,  river,  Morton,  ii.  282. 
Camp  Muir,  Langton,  ii.  148. 
Campmuir,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  174,  ii.  15. 
Camps,  Easter  and  Wester,  lands,  Carnock, 

i.  184. 
Campsaile,  bay,  Roseneath,  ii.  427. 
Campshead,  in  Crawford,  i.  230. 
Campsie,  parish,  Stirling,  i.  174 — i.  92. 
Campsie,  Linn  of,  Cargill,  i.  179. 
Camptown,  in  Jedburgh,  i.  588. 


Camserney,  Dull,  i.  301. 

Camster,  hills,  Wick,  ii.  610. 

Camstraddan,  lands,  Luss,  ii.  222,  223. 

Camus  Stone,  in  Colinton,  i.  210. 

Camus-na-Gaul,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 

Camustane,  hill,  Monikie,  ii.  264,  265. 

Canaan  House,  Morningside,  ii.  280. 

Canaan  Lodge,  Morningside,  ii.  280. 

Candacraig  House,  Strathdon,  ii.  513. 

Cander,  river,  Dalserf,  i.  269. 

Candida  Casa,  Wigtonshire,  ii.  605. 

Candren  Well,  spring,  Paisley,  ii.  344. 

Candy,  burn,  Biggar,  i.  127. 

Canisbay,  parish,  Caithness,  i.  175. 

Canna,  isle,  Argyll,  i.  176,  ii.  472, 

Cannesburn,  hamlet,  Dumbartonshire,  i. 
176. 

Cannich,  river,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 

Cannisb,  mountain,  Assynt,  i.  73. 

Cannon  Holes,  St.  Mungo,  ii.  293. 

Cannor,  loch,  Glenmuick,  i.  508. 

Canobie,  or  Canonbie,  parish,  Dumfries,  i. 
176,  530. 

Canongate.     See  Edinburgh. 

Cant,  hill,  Shotts,  i.  119. 

Cantly,  lands,  in  Grange,  i.  518. 

Cantray,  mansion,  Croy  and  Dalcross,  i.  243. 

Cant's  Kirk,  Pitsligo,  ii.  375. 

Canty,  bay,  North  Berwick,  i.  123. 

Cantyre,  Argyllshire,  i.  69,  89. 

Cautyre,  Mull  of,  Southend,  ii.  476,  477. 

Caolas  Uist,  in  Harris,  i.  536. 

Caolchurn,  castle,  Glenorehy,  i.  509. 

Caolvallock,  hamlet,  Perthshire,  i.  177. 

Cape  Orcas.  See  Orcas,  Cape.  And  all 
places  having  a  similar  distinguishing  pre- 
fix will  be  found  under  the  proper  name. 

Capehope,  stream,  Hounam,  i.  547. 

Capenoch,  estate,  Keir,  ii.  2. 

Caplerig,  mansion,  Mearns,  ii.  242. 

Caprington,  lands,  Riecarton,  ii.  420. 

Caputh,  parish,  Perth,  i.  177,  330. 

Cara,  Argyll.     See  Crigha  and  Cam. 

Caraldstone,  Forfar.     See  Careston. 

Carberry,  farm,  Dysart,  i.  349. 

Carberry  Hill,  near  Edinburgh,  i.  364. 

Carberry  House,  in  Inveresk,  i.  570. 

Carbet,  stream,  Forfarshire,  i.  441. 

Carbeth,  Strathblanc,  ii.  511. 

Carbost,  in  Bracadale,  i.  151. 

Carbrook  House,  Dunipaee,  i.  327. 

Carbuddo,  old  parish,  Guthrie,  i.  526. 

Cardean,  in  Airlie,  Forfar,  i.  34. 

Carden,  Mill  of,  Premnay,  ii.  392. 

Cardinal's  Steps,  rocks,  Kilrenny,  ii.  60. 

Cardon,  in  Broughton,  i.  155. 

Cardonald,  mansion,  Paisley,  ii.  344. 

Cardoness,  house,  Anwoth,  Kirkcudbright, 
i.  54. 

Cardrona,  house,  Traquair,  ii.  560. 

Cardross,  parish,  Dumbarton,  i.  178. 

Cardross,  seat,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  387- 

Careston,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  179. 

Carfin,  house,  Bothwell,  i.  148. 

Carfrae,  lands,  Garvald  and  Bara,  i.  407. 

Cargen,  estate,  Troqucer,  ii.  562. 

Cargen  Water,  Lochrutton,  ii.  199. 

Cargill,  parish,  Perth,  i.  179. 

Carinish,  in  North  Uist,  ii.  575. 

Carity,  stream,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  131. 

Carlaverock,  Dumfries.     See  Caerlaverock. 

Carleton,  bay,  Girvan,  i.  475. 

Carleton,  castle,  Colmonell,  i.  214. 


INDEX. 


Carleton,  mountain,  Ayr,  i.  89. 
Carlines  Cairn,  mountain,  i.  188. 
Carlin-Skerry,  isle,  Orkney,  i.  108. 
Carlinwark,  loch,  Kelton,  ii.  9. 
Carlinwark,  mansion,  Kelton,  ii.  9. 
Carlogie  House,  in  Aboyne,  Aberdeen,  i.  32. 
Carlops,  village,  Peebles,  i.  180,  ii.  180'. 
Carloway,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 
Carloway,  in  Uig,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 

574. 
Carlowrie,  estate,  Kirkliston,  ii.  110. 
Carluke,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  180. 
Carmacoup,  seat,  Douglas,  i.  288. 
Carman,  hill,  Cardross,  i.  178. 
Carmel,  river,  Kilmaurs,  ii.  46. 
Carmel-Bank,  mansion,  Kilmaurs,  ii.  46. 
Carmichael,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  181. 
Carmount,  hill,  Dunnottar,  i.  336. 
Carmunnock,  pai'ish,  Lanark,  i.  182. 
Carmyle,  village,  Lanark,  i.  182. 
Carmylie,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  182. 
Carna,  isle,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Carnac,  fort,  Dunbarny,  i.  313. 
Carnaig,  stream,  Dornoch,  i.  286. 
Carna-nam-Fiann,  Rosskeen,  ii.  431. 
Carnassary,  castle,  Kilmartin,  ii.  45. 
Carna veran,  hill,  in  Alford,  Aberdeen,  i.  36. 
Carnbaddy,  farm,  Lumphanan,  ii.  219. 
Carnbee,  parish,  Fife,  i.  183. 
Carnbo,  hamlet,  Fossoway,  i.  451. 
Camduff,  in  Stewarton,  ii.  489. 
Carnegie,  Forfarshire,  i.  182. 
Carnegie  Hills,  Renfrewshire,  i.  489. 
Carnie-Hill,  village,  Perthshire,  i.  183. 
Carnie  Lodge,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
Carniel  Hill,  Carnock,  i.  184. 
Carn-ma-Cheasog,  cairn,  Luss,  ii.  222. 
Carn-na-Cuimhne,  in  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Carnoch,  district,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i  .184. 
Carnock,  parish',  Fifej  i.  184. 
Carnock  Park,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320,  321. 
Carnoustie,  village,  Forfar,  i.  184 — i.  109. 
Carnsalloch,  estate,  Kirkmahoe,  ii.  112. 
Carnwath,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  185. 
Carolina  Park,  Cramond,  i.  227,  520. 
Caroline-Place,  hamlet,  Perth,   i.  186,  ii. 

234. 
Carolside,  in  Earlstoun,  i.  352. 
Carpow,  house,  Abernethy,  Perth,  i.  29,  30. 
Carr-Bridge,  village,  Inverness-shire,  i.  345. 
Carr  Rock,  Berwick-on-Tweed,  i.  124. 
Carradale,  stream,  Saddell  and  Skipness,  ii. 

446. 
Carraig,  rock,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189. 
Carrick,  castle,  Lochgoilhead,  ii.  196. 
Carrick,  district,  Ayrshire,  i.  89,  ii.  240. 
Carriden,  parish,  Linlithgow,  i.  186. 
Carrington,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  186. 
Carrol  Rock,  in  Clyne,  i.  204. 
Carron,  burn,  Durisdeer,  i.  342. 
Can'on,  hill,  in  Aberlour,  Banff,  i.  27. 
Carron,  loch,  Lochearron,  ii.  193. 
Carron,  river,  Fetteresso,  i.  426  ;  Glenber- 

vie,  501. 
Carron,  river,  Kincardine,  ii.  68. 
Carron,   river,    Stirlingshire ;    Camelon,   i. 

171  ;  Denny,  278,   279  ;    Falkirk,  415 ; 

Fintry,  431  ;  Grangemouth,  519. 
Carron,  village,  Stirling,  i.  187. 
Carronbridge,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  187. 
Carron-Grove,  in  Denny,  i.  278. 
Carron  Hall,  Larbert,  ii.  149. 
Carronshore,  village,  Stirling,  i.  187. 
605 


C'arroy,  Loch,  Duirinish,  i.  299,  300. 
Carruth,  mansion,  Kilmalcolm,  ii.  39. 
Carruthers,  old  parish,  Middlebie,  ii.  252. 
Carry-Blair,  in  Edderton,  i.  359. 
Carsaig,  in  Kilfinichen  and  Kilviceuen,  ii.  33. 
Carsaig,  bay,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 
Carse,  bay,  Carsethorn,  i.  187. 
Carse,  Hill  of,  Rescobie,  ii.  417- 
Carse-Bridge,  in  Alloa,  i.  37,  38. 
Carseburn,  village,  Forfar,  i.  187. 
Carsecreuch,  castle,  Old  Luce,  ii.  218. 
Carsethorn,  village,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  187, 

ii.  96. 
Carskey,  bay,  Southend,  ii.  476. 
Carskey,  mansion,  Southend,  ii.  477- 
Carslogie,  mansion,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
Carsphairn,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  188. 
Carstairs,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  188. 
Cart,  Black,  river,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  201. 
Cart,  White,  river  ;  Cathcart,  i.  191,  192  ; 

Paisley,  ii.  341. 
Carter  Fell,  hill,  Roxburghshire,  ii.  440. 
Carterhope,  farm,  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  5G8. 
Carter-Town,  in  Hutton  and  Corrie,  i.  555. 
Cartland,  village,  Lanark,  i.  189,  ii.  142, 

143. 
Cartnavel,  in  Govan,  i.  515. 
Cartsburn,  Renfrewshire,  i.  489. 
Cartsdyke,  or  Crawfurdsdyke,  Greenock, 

i.  189,  522,  523,  524. 
Cartside  Cottage,  Cathcart,  i.  192. 
Carty.     See  Port-Carty. 
Carvy,  stream,  Strathdon,  ii.  512. 
Carwood,  in  Biggar,  i.  128. 
Cary,  ferry,  in  Abernethy,  Perth,  i.  29. 
Caryle,  old  parish,  Fife,  i.  225. 
Caskieben,  house,  Dyce,  i.  346. 
Cassencarrie,  mansion,  Kirkmabreck,  ii.  111. 
Cassilis,  seat,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  1 15. 
Cassley,  stream,  Criech,  i.  234. 
Castel-dun-Richuan,  in  Dores,  i.  285. 
Castle,  in  Gordon,  Berwick,  i.  512. 
Castle,  mount,  Kirkurd,  ii.  128. 
Castle,  village,  Ayr,  i.  189. 
Castle  Bay,  Portpatrick,  ii.  388. 
Castlebay,  Barra,  i.  107. 
Castle-Campbell,  in  Dollar,  i.  283. 
Castle-Carrick,  Argyll,  i.  69. 
Castlecary-,   village,  Falkirk,  i.   189,  415, 

416,  530. 
Castle  Close,  Dunkeld,  Perth,  i.  328. 
Castle-Cluggy,  Monivaird  and  Strowan,  ii. 

266. 
Castle-Coeffin,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  190. 
Castle-Cole,  in  Clyne,  i.  205. 
Castle-Craig,  Kirkmichael  and  Cullicudden, 

ii.  118. 
Castle-Craig,  Kirkurd,  ii.  127. 
Castle-Craig,  in  Tillicoultry,  ii.  541. 
Castle-Craig,  hill,  West  Calder,  i.  168. 
Castle-Craig,  rocks,  Nigg,  ii.  319. 
Castle-Craignish,  Argyll,  i.  224. 
Castle-Douglas,  burgh,  Kirkcudbright,  i. 

189. 
Castle  Dykes,  Carstairs,  i.  188. 
Castle-Dykes,  Dumfries,  i.  305,  306. 
Castle-Dykes,   entrenchment,   Ruthven,  ii. 

443. 
Castledykes,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  103. 
Castlefairn,  stream,  Glencairn,  i.  502. 
Castle-Forbes,  Keig,  ii.  1,  2. 
Castle-  Fraser,  in  Cluny,  i.  204. 
Castlegower,  farm,  Buittle,  i.  159. 


Castle-Grant,  Cromdale,  i.  239. 
Castle-Grey,  in  Mid  Calder,  i.  167. 
Castlehaven,  in  T arbat,  ii.  529. 
Castle-Hill,  Aberdeen,    archery  at,    i.    9  ; 

barracks,  11. 
Castle-Hill,  Ardrossan,  Ayr,  i.  68. 
Castle  Hill,  Campbelltown,  i.  172. 
Castle  Hill,  Clunie,  i.  203. 
Castle  Hill,  Cullen,  i.  245. 
Castle  Hill,  Culross,  i.  246. 
Castle  Hill,  Cupar,  i.  255,  256. 
Castle  Hill,  Dundee,  i.  320. 
Castle  Hill,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  23. 
Castle  Hill,  Edinburgh,  i.  373. 
Castle  Hill,  Inchture,  i.  560. 
Castle  Hill,  Inverness,  i.  576. 
Castle  Hill,  Inverugie,  Banff,  i.  421. 
Castle  Hill,  Kittoch-Side,  ii.  133. 
Castle  Hill,  Lanark,  ii.  144. 
Castle  Hill,  Lochmaben,  ii.  197- 
Castle  Hill,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 
Castle  Hill,  in  Renfrew  parish,  ii.  414. 
Castle  Hill,  Stirling,  ii.  490,  491,  492. 
Castle  Hill,  Strachan,  ii.  505. 
Castle  Hill,  Symington,  ii.  526. 
Castle  Hill,  Tamiadice,  ii.  529. 
Castlehill,  in  Birnie,  i.  129. 
Castlehill,  in  Cardross,  i.  178. 
Castlehill,  Carluke,  i.  181. 
Castlehill,  in  Crimond,  i.  236. 
Castlehill,  Olrick  parish,  ii.  328. 
Castle  Hills,  mounds,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  25. 
Castle  House,  Dalmellington,  i.  265. 
Castle  House,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  337. 
Castle-Huntly,  lands,  Longforgan,  ii.   210, 

211. 
Castle  Island,  Kinross,  ii.  90. 
Castle-Kennedy,  in  Inch,  i.  555, 556. 
Castle  Knap,  Lunan,  ii.  220. 
Castle  Law,  in  Abernethy,  Perth,  i.  29. 
Castle  Law,  in  Forgandenny,  i.  443. 
Castlelaw,  in  Yetholm,  ii.  622. 
Castlelaw,  house,  Glencross,  i.  504. 
Castlelaw,  seat,  Coldingham,  i.  210. 
Castle-Lenrick,  seat,  Perthshire,  ii.  367. 
Castle-Leod,  mansion,  Fodderty,  i.  435. 
Castle-Loan,  Borrowstounness,  i.  144. 
Castle  Loch,  Lochmaben,  ii.  198. 
Castle-Mearnaig,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  190. 
Castlemilk,  St.  Mungo,  ii.  293. 
Castlemilk,  estate,  in  Cai'munnock,  i.  182. 
Castle-Mairn,  house,  Eassie  and  Nevay,  i. 

354. 
Castle-O'er,  camp,  Eskdalemuir,  i.  407. 
Castle-Quaw,  stronghold,  Lanark,  ii.  144. 
Castle- Rainy,  in  Turriff,  ii.  565. 
Castle-Rankine,  glen,  Denny,  i.  278. 
Castles,  columns,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  ii. 

55. 
Castle- Semple,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  201,  202. 
Castleside,  lands,  Ashkirk,  i.  72. 
Castle-Stewart,  Glasserton,  i.  499. 
Castle-Stewart,  Penniughame,  ii.  355. 
Castle- Stuart,  seat,  Pettie,  ii.  371- 
Castle-Swein,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 
Castle-Synniness,  Old  Luce,  ii.  218. 
Castleton,  ancient  palace,  Muckart,  ii.  288, 

289. 
Castleton,  house,  Fordoun,  i.  437. 
Castleton,  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  190. 
Castle-Toward,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  337. 
Castletown,  barony,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  201. 
Castletown,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  191. 


INDEX. 


Castletown,  village,  Caithness,  i.  191. 
Castle- Varrich,  in  Tongue,  ii.  5-18,  550. 
Castlewaws,  farm,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  203. 
Castle- Wemyss,  in  Wemyss,  Fife,  ii.  597- 
Castlewig,  in  Whithorn,  i.  500,  ii.  600. 
Castramont,  in  Girthon,  i.  474. 
Cat  Castle,  in  Stonehouse  parish,  ii.  500. 
Caterthun,  Brown,  hill,  Menmuir,  ii.  247. 
Caterthun,  White,  hill,  Menmuir,  ii.  247. 
Catfrith  Voe,  in  Tingwall,  ii.  541. 
Cathcart,  parish,  Renfrew,  i.  191. 
Cathcart,  New,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  192. 
Catherine's,  St.,  ancient  parish,  Penieuick, 

ii.  352. 
Catherine's,  St.,  residence,  Liberton,  ii.  178. 
Cathkin  Hill,  Carmunnock,  i.  182. 
Cathlaw,  house,  Torphiehen,  ii.  553. 
Catlaw,  hill,  Kingoldrum,  ii.  78;  Kirriemuir, 

131. 
Catrine,  village,  Ayr,  i.  192. 
Catrine-Bank,  seat,  Som,  ii.  475. 
Catseraig,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320. 
Cat-stane,  monument,  Kirkliston,  ii.  109. 
Cattepol,  lands,  Pettie,  ii.  370. 
Catter  House,  Kilmaronock,  ii.  44. 
Catterline,  village,  Kincardine,  i.  193,  ii. 

84. 
Cauldhame,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  193. 
Cauldshiels,  loch,  near  Galashiels,  i.  459. 
Causea,  hill,  Drainie,  i.  290. 
Causewayhead,  village,  near  Stirling,  i.  193. 
Causeyside,  village,  Lanark,  i.  193. 
Cauvin's  Hospital,  Duddingston,  i.  298. 

Cava,  islet,  Orkney,  i.  193,  ii.  333. 
Cavens,  residence,  Kirkbean,  ii.  95  ;  castle, 
392. 

Cavers,  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  193. 

Cavers,  seat,  Bowden,  i.  149. 

Caverton,  hill,  Eckford,  i.  357,  358. 

Caverton,  village,  Roxburgh,  i.  194. 

Cawdor,  parish,  Inverness   and   Nairn,   i. 
194— i.  82. 

Cawpla,  loch,  Neilston,  ii.  300. 

Ceanloeh,  rivulet,  Uig,  ii.  573. 

Ceannabinn,  mountain,  Durness,  i.  342. 

Ceann-a-Mhara,  hill,  Tiree,  ii.  544. 

Ceannard,  Loch,  Dull,  i.  301. 

Ceannard,  river,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 

Ceannchruinn,  river,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 

Ceathramh-garbh,  in  Eddrachillis,  i.  3G0. 

Ceilltarraglan,  Portree,  ii.  388. 

Cellardykes,  Kilrenny,  ii.  60. 

Celurca,  Montrose,  ii.  272. 

Ceres,  bum,  Ceres,  i.  195  ;  Kemback,  ii.  10. 

Ceres,  parish,  Fife,  i.  194. 

Cessford,  castle,  Eckford,  i.  357,  358. 

Cessford,  village,   Roxburgh,  i.  195. 

Cessnock,  house,  Galston,  i.  461. 

Cessnock,  river,  Riccarton,  ii.  420. 

Chance-Inn,  in  Inverkeillor,  i.  571. 

Chance-Inn,  village,  Fife,  i.  195. 

Chanlock,  hill,  Penpont,  ii.  35C. 

Ciiannelkirk,  parish,   Berwick,  i.   196. 

Channerwick,  in  Dunrossness,  Shetland,  ii. 
452. 

Chanonry,  Ross  and  Cromarty.     See  Fort- 
rose. 

Chaolain,  stream,   Inverchaolain,  i.  568. 

Chaolis-port,  loch,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 

Chapel,  in  Ferryport-on-Craig,  i.  422. 
Chapel,  farm,  Kelso,  ii.  239. 
Chapel,  village,  Fife,  i.  196. 
Chapel  Burn,  in  Crawford,  i.  230. 
606 


Chapel  Burn,  Larbert,  ii.  149. 
Chapelburn,  in  Dalserf,  i.  269. 
Chapelden,  in  Aberdour,  Aberdeen,  i.  23. 
Chapelgill,  in  Broughton,  i.  155. 
Chapel-Green,  Kilsyth,  ii.  63. 
Chapelhall,  village,  Lanark,  i.  196 — i.  148, 

545. 
Chapel  Haugh,  Whittingham,  ii.  608. 
Chapel  Hill,  in  Culter,  i.  248. 
Chapel  Hill,  in  Flisk,  i.  433. 
Chapel  Hill,  Kirkmahoe,  ii.  112. 
Chapel  Hill,  Logie  Easter,  ii.  208. 
Chapel-Hill,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59. 
Chapel  Hill,  in  Tarbat,  ii.  529. 
Chapelhill,  Moneydie,  ii.  263. 
Chapelhill,  farm,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 
Chapelhill,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  196. 
Chapelhope,  farm,  Ettrick,  i.  408. 
Chapel  House,  in  Dunlop,  i.  333. 
Chapelknowe,  hamlet,  Halfmorton,  i.  530. 
Chapel  of  Garioch.     See  Garioch. 
Chapel  Park,  Ladykirk,  ii.  581. 
Chapelrossan,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Chapelshade,  Dundee,  i.  317,  319. 
Chapelton,  in  Inveraven,  i.  568. 
Chapelton,  Marnoch,  ii.  232. 
Chapelton,  farm,  Stewarton,  ii.  489. 
Chapelton,  hamlet,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  196. 
Chapelton,  village,  Cambuslang,  Lanark, 

196— i.  170. 
Chapelton,  village,  in  Glasford,  Lanark, 

196,  500. 
Chapelton  of  Boysack,  hamlet,   Forfar, 

196,  571. 
Chapeltown,  hamlet,  Killiernan,  ii.  36. 
Chapel  Well,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  115. 
Chapel  Well,  Rothes,  ii.  432. 
Charleston,  village,  Fife,  i.  196,  323,  324. 
Charleston,  village,  Forfar,  i.  197- 
Charleston,  village,  Nigg,  ii.  318. 
Charlestown,  hamlet,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 

i.  197,  ii.  137. 
Charlestown,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  197 — i. 

31,  32. 
Charlestown,  village,  Aberlour,  i.  197- 
Charleton,  seat,  Kilconquhar,  ii.  29. 
Charnan,  loch,  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 
Charter  Hall,  in  Fogo,  i.  435. 
Charters'  Chests,  near  Charlestown,  i.  191. 
Chartreshall,  hamlet,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  321. 
Cheese  Bay,  in  North  Uist,  ii.  574. 
Chenzie,  island,  Islay,  Argyll,  ii.  385. 
Cherry-Bank,  village,  Perth,  i.  197. 
Cherry-Trees,  vale,  Yetholm,  ii.  621. 
Chester  Hill,  Manor  parish,  ii.  230. 
Chester  House,  Hounam,  i.  548. 
Chesterhall  House,  Cramond,  i.  228. 
Chesterhill,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  197. 
Chesters,  in  Fogo,  Berwick',  i.  436. 
Chesters,  fortification,  Kirkurd,  ii.  128. 
Chesters,  mansion,  in  Ancrum,  Roxburgh, 

i.  44. 
Chesters,  village,  Roxburgh,  i.  197. 
Cheviot  Hills,  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  278. 
Cheyne's  Tower,  St.  Fergus,  i.  422. 
Chicken  Heads,headlands,  Stornoway,Lewis, 

ii.  502. 
Chipperkyle,  mansion,  Kirkpatrick-Durham, 

ii.  122. 
Chirnside,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  197. 
Chirsty's  Rock,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  ii. 

55. 
Chisholme,  mansion,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 


Chlachdhian,  in  Abernethy,  Elgin,  i.  28. 
Choaric,  isle,  Durness,  i.  343. 
Choice  Lee,  Langton,  ii.  148. 
Chon,  Loch,  Aberfoyle,  Perth,  i.  25. 
Chorey,  Loch,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189. 
Christie's  Hole,  Papa-Stour,  Shetland,  ii.  346. 
Christ's- Kirk,  ancient  parish,  Kinnethmont, 

ii.  86. 
Chryston,  village,  Lanark,  i.  198 — i.  164. 
Cill  Andreas,  Blair- Atholl,  i.  133. 
Clach-a-Charridh,  obelisk,  Nigg  parish,  ii. 

461. 
Claeh-a-mhoid,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  332. 
Clachan,  Kilmorie,  ii.  52. 
Ciachan,  hamlet,  Penninghame,  ii.  355. 
Clachan,  sound,  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchattan, 

ii.  19. 
Clachan,  valley,  Farr,  i.  418. 
Clachan,  village,  Campsie,  i.  198 — i.  1 75. 
Clachan,  village,  Fintry,  i.  431. 
Clachan,  village,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  190. 
Clachan  Bridge,  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchattan, 

ii.  20. 
Clachan  House,  Roseneath,  ii.  428. 
Clachan,  St.  John's,  village,  Kirkcudbright, 

i.  198. 
Clachan-Seil,  bay,  Kilninver  and    Kilmel- 

ford,  ii.  56. 
Clachdhian,  rock,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  116. 
Claelmabane,  hill,  Kincardineshire,  ii.  71. 
Clachnaharry,  village,  Inverness,  i.  198. 
Clach  na  Seanaish,  in  Croy  and  Dalcross,  i. 

243. 
Clachnatum,  in  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Clackmannan,  i.  198. 
CLACKMANNANSHIRE,  i.  199,  ii.  91. 
Claigean,  bay,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 
Clairtown,  St.,  village,  Fife,  i.  200. 

Clamshell  Cave,  Island  of  Staffa,  ii.  483. 

Clans,  Loch  of  the,  Nairnshire,  ii.  299. 

Clanyard,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 

Claonaig,  stream,  Saddell  and  Skipness,  ii. 
446. 

Clarebrand,  hamlet,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  200. 

Clarencefield,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  200. 

Clarkhill,  in  Farr,  i.  419. 

Clarkston,  district,  Lanark,  i.  200. 

Clarkston,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  200. 

Clary,  lands,  Penninghame,  ii.  354,  355. 

Clashbennie,  in  Errol,  i.  404. 

Clashcamach,  in  Durness,  i.  343. 

Clashmore,  in  Dornoch,  i.  286. 

Clashnessie,  village,  Sutherland,  i.  200,  ii. 
499. 

Clatchard  Crag,  hill,  in  Abdie,  Fife,  i.  2,  3. 

Clathick,  mansion,  Monivaird  and  Strowan, 
ii.  267. 

Clathy,  village,  Perth,  i.  200. 

Claton  Forest,  Oathlaw,  ii.  325. 

Clatt,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  200. 

Clattering  Briggs,  in  Fordoun,  i.  436. 

Clatto  Hill,  Kemback,  ii.  10. 

Clatto  Hill,   Mains  and  Strathmartine,  ii. 
229. 

Clatto,  lands,  Kettle,  ii.  16. 

Claverhouse,  residence,  Mains  and  Strath- 
martine, ii.  229. 

Clavin,  hills,  Dundonald,  i.  320. 

Claybarns,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  201. 

Clayhole,  village,  Leswalt,  ii.  172. 

Clay  House,  Lanarkshire,  i.  489. 

Clayhouse,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  201. 

Claymires,  Kippen,  ii.  95. 


INDEX. 


Clayshank,  aucient   parish,  Stonevkirk,  ii. 

501. 
Clayslap,  village,  Lanark,  i.  201. 
Cleghoru,  rock,  Lanark,  ii.  143  ;  house,  144, 

146. 
Cleish,  parish,  Kinross,  i.  201. 
Cleland,  house,  Bothwell,  i.  148. 
Clement,  St.,  parish.     See  Aberdeen. 
Clerkington,  house,  Haddington,  i.  528. 
Clerkington,  manor,  Temple,  ii.  534. 
Clermiston,  mansion,  Corstorphine,  i.  218. 
Clett,  isle,  Sutherland,  i.  202. 
Cleugh,  bum,  Carnwath,  i.  185. 
Cleugh,  burn,  Sorn  parish,  ii.  475. 
Cleughbrae,  hamlet,  Dumfries,  i.  202. 
Cleughorn  Lodge,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  23. 
Cliff  Hills,  in  Bressay,  i.  162. 
Cliff,  loch,  Unst,  ii.  578,  579. 
Cliff  Sound,  Bressay,  i.  153,  162. 
Cliffdale,  residence,  Shapinshay,  ii.  462. 
Clifton,  village,  Perth,  i.  202. 
Clifton  Hall,  estate,  Kirkliston,  ii.  110. 
Clifton  Hill,  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  278. 
Clifton  Park,  Linton,  ii.  187. 
Climpy,  hamlet,  Lanark,  i.  202 — i.  185. 
Clints  of  Drumore,  hills,   Kirkmabreck,  ii. 

111. 
Clippens  House,  Kilbarchan,  ii.  17- 
Clober,  in  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58,  258. 
Clochnabane,  hill,  Strachan,  ii.  504. 
Clochoderick,  farm,  Kilbarchan,  ii.  17- 
Cloghill,  residence,  Newhills,  ii.  310. 
Cloncaird,  lands,  Kirkmiehael,  ii.  115. 
Clonelaugh,  Kirkmiehael,  ii.  115. 
Closeburn,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  202. 
Closs,  farm,  Hutton  and  Corrie,  i.  554. 
Closters,  burn,  Olrick,  ii.  329. 
Clouden,  burn,  Dunscore,  i.  338. 
Clounie,  loch,  Glenshiel,  i.  510. 
Clova,  Forfar.     See  Cortaclty. 
Clova,  Kildrummy,  ii.  31, 
Cloven  Hills,  in  Forres,  i.  445. 
Cloven  Stone,  rock,  Moy  and  Dalrossie,  ii . 

286. 
Cluden,  Holywood,  i.  546,  547- 
Cluden,  river,  Kirkpatrick-Irongray,  ii.  124. 
Clun  of  Newbigging,  Carnock,  i.  184. 
Clune,  in  Auldearn,  i.  82. 
Chine,  lands,  Carnock,  i.  184. 
Cluney,  river,  Crathie  and  Braemar,  i.  229. 
Clunie,  bleachfield,  in  Abernethy,  Perth,  i. 

29. 
Clunie,  parish,  Perth,  i.  203,  ii.  364. 
Cluny,  Auchterderran,  i.  78. 
Cluny,  forest,  Blairgowrie,  i.  134. 
Cluny,  house,  Dull,  i.  301. 
Cluny,  mansion,  Marnoch,  ii.  233. 
Cluny,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  204. 
Cluny  Castle,  Laggan,  ii.  1 40. 
Cluny  Water,  Charlestown,  i.  191. 
Cluthie,  rivulet,  Kilmany,  ii.  41. 
Clyde,  river,  Lanarkshire,  ii.  143,  145  ; — 

Bothwell,  i.  147, 148  ;   Cambuslaug,  170  ; 

Crawford,  230  ;    Dalserf,  269  ;  Glasgow, 

483,  488  ;  Hamilton,  534  ;  Pettinain,  ii. 

372  ;  Renfrew,  413. 
Clyde  Iron- works,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  270. 
Clydesdale.     See  Lanarkshire. 
Cltne,  parish,  Sutherland,  i.  204. 
Clyth,  Latheron,  ii.  155. 
Clyth,  East,  Latheron,  ii.  155. 
Clyth    Ness,   headland,   Latheron,  ii.   154, 

155. 

607 


Clythe,  Easter,  in  Kildonan,  ii.  30. 
Cnoc,  hill,  Glenmuick,  i.  507. 
Cnoc-an-t-Sabhal,  hill,  Edderton.  i.  359. 
Cnoek-a-Chath,  hill,  Lairg,  ii.  140. 
Coalhill,  village,  Argyll,  i.  205 — i.  174. 
Coalsnaughton,   village,    Clackmannan,   i. 

205,  ii.  541. 
Coalston,  house,  Haddington,  i.  528. 
Coalton,  village,  Fife,  205. 
Coaltown,  East,  village,  Fife,  i.  205. 
Coaltown,  West,  village,  Fife,  i.  205. 
Coaltown  of  Balgonie,  village,  Fife,  i.  205. 
Coalyburn,  Linton,  ii.  186. 
Coalyland,  village,  Clackmannan,  i.  205 — ■ 

i.  38. 
Coatbridge,  village,  Lanark,  i.  205,  ii.  270. 
Coat  Castle,  in  Stonehouse  parish,  ii.  500. 
Coatdyke,  village,  Old  Monkland,  i.  205. 
Coates,  lands,  Edinburgh,  i.  373. 
Coates,  Lower,  in  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 
Coates,  West,  residence,  Newburn,  ii.  309. 
Coatt,  farm,  Eskdalemuir,  i.  407. 
Cubairdy,  house,  Forgue,  i.  444. 
Coblehaugh,  in  Forteviot,  i.  447. 
Cochno,  seat,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59. 
Cock  of  Arran,  Buteshire,  i.  71. 
Coekairney,  house,  Dalgety,  i.  261. 
Cockburn  Law,  Dunse,  i.  339,  340. 
Cockburnspath,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  205. 
Cockenzie,  village,  HaddingtoD,  i.  206;  ii. 

558,  559. 
Cocklaw,  farm,  Walston,  ii.  591. 
Cocklaw,  hill,  Yetholm,  ii.  621. 
Cocklerue,   hill,   Linlithgow,   ii.    183,    184, 

552. 
Cockpen,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  207. 
Cockpool,  in  Ruthwell,  ii.  444. 
Cockston,  farm,  Gartly,  i.  4G6. 
Coe,  stream,  Glencoe,  i.  502,  ii.  189. 
Cogrieburn-Bridge,  Johnstone,  i.  590. 
Coigach,  barony,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Coila,  river,  Ochiltree,  ii.  326. 
Coiltie,  stream,  Urquhart,  ii.  582. 
Coinich,  stream,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189. 
Coir-na-Fearn,  loch,  Farr,  i.  418. 
Colbanstoun,  old  parish,  Lanark,  i.  220. 
Coldhome,  Rothiemay,  ii.  435. 
Coldingham,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  207 — i.  89, 

90. 
Coldon,  lands,  Kinross,  ii.  91. 
Coldran,  lands,  Gartly,  i.  466. 
COLDSTREAM,  burgh,  Berwick,  i.  209. 
Coles  Castle,  Sutherland,  ii.  523. 
Coley,  rock,  Gamrie,  i.  46 1 . 
Colfargie,  in  Abernethy,  Perth,  i.  29. 
Colgrain,  in  Cardross,  i.  178. 
Colgrave  Sound,  in  Shetland,  i.  423. 
Coligarth,  district,  Lady  parish,  Orkney,  ii. 

138. 
Coliness,  Lady  parish,  Orkney,  ii.  138. 
Colinsburgh,  town,  Fife,  i.  210. 
Colinton,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  210. 
Colipool,  village,  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchat- 

tan,  ii.  20. 
Coll,  Argyll.     See  Tiree. 
Coll,  Upper  and  Nether,  rivers,  Lewis,  ii. 

502. 
Coll  House,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  ii.  55. 
Collace,  parish,  Perth,  i.  211. 
Collairney,  house,  Dunbog,  i.  315. 
College,  in  Fraserburgh,  i.  455. 
College,  The,  Pencaitland,  ii.  352. 
College  of  Roseisle,  hamlet,  Elgin,  i.  212. 


Collelo  hills,  Aberdour,  Fife,  i.  24. 

Collennan,  in  Duudonald,  i.  320. 

Collessie,  parish,  Fife,  i.  212. 

Collieston,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  213. 

Collin,  mansion,  Rerwiek,  ii.  416. 

Collin,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  213,  ii.  555. 

Collinswell,  house,  Burntisland,  i.  161. 

Colliston,  seat,  St.  Vigeau's,  ii.  587. 

Collistonmill,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  213. 

Colluthie,  in  Moonzie  parish,  ii.  277- 

Colm,  St.,  isle,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  199. 

Colm,  St.,  village.     See  Combs,  St. 

Colme,  St.,  house,  in  Dalgety,  i.  261. 

Colmelhe,  in  Edzell,  i.  396. 

Colmes,  St.,  old  parish,  Cross  and  Burness, 
i.  240. 

Colmkill,  loch,  Skye,  ii.  467. 

Colmonell,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  213. 

Colosnia,  Lanark,  ii.  141. 

Colonsay,  isle,  Argyll,  i.  214. 

Colonsay,  Little,  isle,  Argyll,  i.  214. 

Colquhalzie,  seat,  Trinity-Gask,  i.  469. 

Colquoich,  farm,  Inveraven,  i.  568. 

Colsay,  isle,  Argyll,  i.  214. 

Coltfield,  hamlet,  Elgin,  i.  214. 

Coltness,  in  Cambusnethan,  i.  171,  ii-  489. 

Coltsbridge,  Edinburghshire,  i.  218. 

Colvend  and  Southwick,  parish,  Kirkcud- 
bright, i.  214. 

Colzium  Castle,  Kilsyth,  ii.  63. 

Comaraich,  ancient  parish,  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, i.  54. 

Combs,  St.,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  215,  ii.  214. 

Comely-Bank,  village,  Roxburgh,  i.  215. 

Comes,  well,  in  Alvah,  Banff,  i.  41. 

Comiston,  near  Edinburgh,  i.  211,  378. 

Comlongan,  castle,  Ruthwell,  ii.  444,  445. 

Common  Hill,  Rothesay,  ii.  434. 

Common  Myre,  lands,  Edinburgh,  i.  362. 

Commonty  of  Sound,  Lerwick,  ii.  188. 

Comore,  reservoir,  Neilston,  ii.  300. 

Compston,  house,  Twynholm,  ii.  569. 

Comrie,  barony,  Weem,  ii.  595. 

Comrie,  parish,  Perth,  i.  215. 

Conait,  falls,  Fortingal,  i.  448. 

Conan,  estate,  Urquhart,  ii.  584. 

Conan,  river,  Urquhart  and  Logie  Wester, 
ii.  584. 

Conanbridge,  village,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 
i.  210. 

Conansythe,  in  Carmylie,  i.  183. 

Condie,  Forgandeuny,  i.  443. 

Condorat,  village,  Dumbarton,  i.  216. 

Conerock,  eminence,  Rothes,  ii.  432. 

Conglass,  glen,  Kirkniichael,  ii.  116. 

Conglens,  lands,  Luss,  ii.  222. 

Conicaval,  haniiet,  Edinkillie,  i.  393. 

Coniglen,  vale,  Southend,  ii.  477. 

Coniugsburgh,  Shetland.  See  Gunningsbwgh. 

Co.n'nage,  village,  Inverness,  i.  216,  ii.  370, 
371. 

Connel,  loch,  Kirkeolm,  ii.  99. 

Connel  Ferry,  Argyll,  i.  61,  62. 

Conney  Park,  Kilsyth,  ii.  63. 

Conry,  stream,  Strathdon,  ii.  512. 

Content,  village,  St.  Quivox,  ii.  399,  588. 

Contin,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  216. 

Conval  Hills,  East  and  West,  Banff,  i.  27. 

Conveth,  Laurencekirk,  ii.  157. 

Convinth,  ancient  parish,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 

Cookney,  in  Fctteresso,  i.  426. 

Coom,  hill,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 

Coomb's,  St.,  Kirk,  Olrick,  ii.  329. 


INDEX. 


Copay,  isle,  Inverness,  i.  217- 
Cope's  Well,  Crieff,  i.  23G. 
Copixshay,  island,  Orkney,  i.  217- 
Coquet,  river,  Oxnam,  ii.  335. 
Corafuar,  hill,  Dumbartonshire,  i.  304. 
Corb,  in  Myth,  Perth,  i.  43. 
Corhet-House  Tower,  Morebattle  and  Mow, 

ii.  278. 
Corbie,  burn,  Inverarity,  i.  565. 
Corbie  Hall,  farm,  Carstairs,  i.  188. 
Corehinan,  burn,  Auchindoir,  i.  75. 
Core,  stream,  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  568. 
Core-Elian,  isle,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134.    ^ 
Coreen,  in  Tullynessle  and  Forbes,  i.  75,  ii. 

564. 
Corehouse,  Lanark,  ii.  143. 
Corfhouse,  bay,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Corfurrach,  Rathven,  ii.  406. 
Corhabbie  Hills,  Mortlaeh,  ii.  280. 
Coria,  town  of  the  Damnii,  i.  188. 
Corinachencher,  bay,  Torosay,  ii.  551. 
Corkendale-law,  hill,  Neilston,  ii.  300. 
Cormilligan,  hill,  Tynron,  ii.  570. 
Cormiston,  lands,  Libberton,  ii.  177. 
Cormorant's  Cave,  Staffa,  ii.  483. 
Cornal  Tower,  Moffat,  ii.  261. 
Corncairn,  village,  Banff,  i.  217- 
Corncockle  Muir,  in  Lochmaben,  i.  55. 
Cornhill,  village,  Banff,  i.  217- 
Cornie,  river,  in  Abercorn,  Linlithgow,  i.  3, 

4. 
Corodale,  in  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 
Corpach,  village,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 
Corpach  Ferry,  Kilmahe,  ii.  40. 
Corrachree,  seat,  Logie-Coldstone,  ii.  207- 
Corra  Lin,  Lanark,  ii.  143. 
Corral,  burn,  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 
Corran,  stream,  Jura,  i.  591. 
Corran  Ferry,  Argyll,  i.  66. 
Corran- Ardgour,  bay,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 
Corranie,  mountain,  Cluny,  i.  204. 
Corrennie  Hill,  Tough,  ii.  556. 
Corrichie,  How  of,  Banchory-Ternan,  i.  100. 
Corrie,  Dumfries.     See  Hutton  mid  Corrie. 
Corrie,  bay,  Kilbride,  ii.  21,  22. 
Corrie,  stream,  Dryfesdale,  i.  296. 
Corrie,  village,  Arran,  i.  217- 
Corriedow,  cave,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 
Corries,  excavations,  Killearn,  ii.  35. 
Corrisel,  seat,  Penningbame,  ii.  355. 
Corrody  Hills,  in  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 
Corrybrough,  mansion,  Moy  and  Dalrossie, 

ii.  287. 
Corrymony,  in  Urquhart  and  Glenmorris- 

ton,  ii.  582,  583. 
Corsancone,  hill,  New  Cumnock,  i.  253. 
Corsbie,  lands,   Legerwood,  ii.   160  ;   lake, 

161. 
Corsbie,  seat,  Penninghame,  ii.  355. 
Corse,  Coull,  i.  219,  220. 
Corse,  house,  Forgue,  i.  444. 
Corsehill,  in  Stewarton,  ii.  488,  489. 
Corsikill  Park,  in  Innerwiek,  i.  563. 
Corsindae,  mansion,  Midmar,  ii.  254. 
Corsock,  hamlet,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  217- 
Corsock,  lake,  Parton,  ii.  347  5  house,  347- 
Corsock,  Nether,  Parton,  ii.  347. 
Corstorphine,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  217, 

369. 
Corswall  Castle,  Kirkcolm,  ii.  99. 
Cortachy  and  Clova,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  218. 
Cortes,  lands,  Rathen,  ii.  402,  403. 
Coruisk,  loch,  Skye,  ii.  467. 
608 


Corwar,  seat,  Colmonell,  i.  213. 
Corymulzie  Cottage,  in  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Coryvreckan,  gulph,   Scarba  isle,  Argyll,  ii. 

455. 
Coshieville,  in  Dull,  i.  301. 
Cossins,  castle,  Glammis,  i.  478. 
Costa,  headland,  Evie  and  Rendall,  i.  408. 
Costerton  House,  Fala  and  Soutra,  i.  142. 
Cotburn,  hills,  Turriff,  ii.  566. 
Cotchet  Ridge,  Eccles,  i.  355. 
Cote,  loch,  Torphichen,  ii.  552. 
Cotes,  East  and  West,  villages,  Lanark,  i. 

205. 
Cothal,  in  Fintray,  i.  430. 
Cothiemuir,  hill,  Keig,  ii.  2. 
Cot-hill,  loch,  Slains  and  Forvie,  ii.  468. 
Cothill,  Lunan,  ii.  220. 
Cottack,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  219. 
Cottlehill,  in  Aberdour,  Fife,  i.  24. 
Cotton,  village,  Aberdeen,  ii.  617. 
Cotton  Hill,  in  Deskford,  i.  279. 
Cotton  of  Lownie,  village,  Forfar,  i.  219. 
Cot-town,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  219. 
Cot-town  of  Gardyne,  village,  Kirkden,  ii. 

105. 
Cotts,  lake,  Urquhart,  ii.  581. 
Cotty,  burn,  Cramond,  I.  228. 
Coul,  mansion,  Contin,  i.  217. 
Coulalt,  loch,  Knockando,  ii.  136. 
Coulard,  hill,  Drainie,  i.  290. 
Coull,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  219. 
Coullin,  range  of  hills,  Bracadale,  i.  151. 
Coulmony  House,  seat,  in  Ardclach,  Nairn, 

i.  63. 
Coulter,  loch,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320. 
Coultry  Hill,  Balmerino,  i.  98. 
Countesswells,  mansion,  Peterculter,  ii.  368. 
Coupar-Angus,  Forfar.     See  Cupar-Angas. 
Coursington,  in  Dalziel,  i.  271. 
Court  Hill,  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 
Courthill,  Lunan,  ii.  220. 
Court  Hilloch,  in  Bellie,  i.  116. 
Cove,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  135. 
Cove,  bay,  Cockburnspath,  i.  206. 
Cove,  mansion,  Kirkpatrick-Fleming,  ii.  124. 
Cove,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  220. 
Cove,  Black  and  White,  caverns,  Rerwick, 

ii.  417. 
Covesea,  hamlet,  Drainie,  i.  290. 
Covington  and  Thankeston,  parish,   La- 
nark, i.  220. 
Cowal,  district,  Argyll,  i.  69,  162. 
Cowbog,  in  Aberdour,  Aberdeen,  i.  23. 
Cowbrae  Hill,  Borthwick,  i.  145. 
Cowcaddens,  village,  near  Glasgow,  i.  220. 
Cowden,  near  Dalkeith,  i.  262,  263. 
Cowden-Beath,  village,  Fife,  i.  220. 
Cowdenknows,  estate,  Earlstoun,  i.  352. 
Cowglen,  in  Eastwood,  i.  354. 
Cowhill,  in  Holywood,  i.  546. 
Cowhill,  in  Whitburn,  ii.  603. 
Cowie,  lordship,  Fetteresso,  i.  425,  426. 
Cowie,  village,  Kincardine,  i.  220. 
Cowpits,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  221,  570. 
Cowshaven,  cave,  in  Aberdour,  Aberdeen, 

i.  22. 
Cowsland,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  221,  228. 
Cowthalley,  castle,  Carnwath,  i.  185. 
Coxton  Tower,  in   St.   Andrew's,   Elgin,  i. 

50. 
Coyl,  river,  Coylton,  i.  221. 
Coylton,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  221. 
Crachie,  stream,  Redgorton,  ii.  411. 


Craftaramie,  Kilmaronock,  ii,  44. 

Cragerachan,  height,  Nairnshire,  ii.  299. 

Cragganester,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  222. 

Craggantoul,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  222. 

Craggy,  loch,  Lairg,  ii.  141. 

Craggy,  loch,  Tongue,  ii.  548. 

Cragie  House,  Newton-upon-Ayr,  ii.  314. 

Cragleith,  isle,  North  Berwick,  i.  123. 

Crag-Ower,  height,  Nairnshire,  ii.  299. 

Crag  Tower,  Oxnam,  ii.  336. 

Craibstone,  residence,  Newhills,  ii.  310. 

Craichie,  village,  Forfar,  i.  222. 

Craickmoor,  hill,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 

Craig,  Auchindoir,  i.  75. 

Craig,  in  Dundee,  i.  317. 

Craig,  hill,  Kirkmabreck,  ii.  111. 

Craig,  house,  Balmaclellan,  i.  96. 

Craig,  mansion,  Kilmaurs,  ii.  46. 

Craig,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  222. 

Craig,  rivulet,  Balmaclellan,  i.  95. 

Craig  of  Madderty,  Perth,  i.  223. 

Craigaehaoineadh,  Kincardine,  ii.  68. 

Craigallion,  loch,  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 

Craigandarroch,  hill,  Glenmuick,  i.  507. 

Craigan-roy,  bay,  Glenshiel,  i.  510. 

Craigbarnet,  house,  Campsie,  i.  175. 

Craigbeg,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320. 

Craigberg,  hill,  Durris,  i.  344. 

Craig-Caffie,  castle,  Inch,  i.  556. 
Craig-Chailleach,  Killin,  ii.  37. 
Craigerook,  house,  Cramond,  i.  227- 
Craigdallie,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  223. 
Craigdam,  in  Tarves,  ii.  533. 
Craigdarroch,  Glencairn,  i.  502. 
CraigdaiToch,  mansion,  Contin,  i.  217. 
Craig-David,  Kinneff,  i.  121,  ii.  84. 
Craig-Dhereag,   hill,  Port  of  Monteitb,  ii. 

387. 
Craig-Dhu,  hill,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  387. 
Craigdhuloch,  hill,  Glenmuick,  i.  508. 
Craigdow,  hill,  Kirkoswald,  ii.  120. 
Craig-Ellachie,  bridge,  Banffshire,  i.  27. 
Craig-Ellachie,  Lower,  rock,  Rothes,  ii.  432. 
Craigellie,  estate,  Lonmay,  ii.  214. 
Craigencallie,  Minnigaff,  ii.  257. 
Craigend,  in  Muiravonside,  ii.  290. 
Craigend,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320. 
Craigend,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  223. 
Craigend,  hill,  Lanark,  ii.  143. 
Craigend,  loch,  Newabbey,  ii.  303 ;  farm, 

304. 
Craigend,  village,  Lanark,  i.  223. 
Craigend,  village,  Dunbarny,  i.  313. 
Craigend  Castle,  in  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 
Craigends,  mansion,  Kilbarehan,  ii.  17. 
Craigenfeoch,  Paisley,  ii.  342. 
Craigengelt,  lands,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  322. 
Craigenscore,  hill,  Glenbucket,  i.  501. 
Craigflower,  house,  Torryburn,  ii.  554. 
Craigfoodie,  Dairsie,  i.  260. 
Craigforth,  mansion,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  321. 
Craig-Gibbon,  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 
Craighall,  castle,  Rattray,  ii.  406,  407. 
Craighall,  old  seat,  Ceres,  i.  195. 
Craighall,  village,  Ayr,  i.  223. 
Craighall,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  223. 
Craighall,  New,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  223, 

570. 
Craighead,  in  Campsie,  i.  175. 
Craighead,  in  Crawfordjohn,  i.  231. 
Craighead,  in  Dailly,  i.  259. 
Craighead  House,  Shotts,  i.  119. 
Craigh-Hcad,  Kilwinning,  ii.  66. 


INDEX. 


Craighouse,  village,  Jura,  i.  591. 
Craigie,  forest,  Fetteresso,  i.  425. 
Craigie,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  223. 
Craigie,  mansion,  St.  Quivox,  ii.  399. 
Craigie,  village,  Linlithgow,  i.  223,  265. 
Craigie,  village,  Perth,  i.  223. 
Craigie  and  Barnweill,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  223. 
Craigieburn,  Moffat,  ii.  201. 
Craigie,  hill,  Leuchars,  ii.  175. 
Craigiehill,  in  Riccarton,  ii.  420. 
Craigielands,  village,  Kirkpatrick-Juxta,  i. 

224,  ii.  125. 
Craigievar,  estate,  Leochel  and  Cushnie,  ii. 

166. 
Craigingar,  in  Dunsyre,  i.  341. 
Craiglaw  House,  Kirkowan,  ii.  121. 
Craigleith,  rock,  in  Alva,  Stirling,  i.  40. 
Craig-Lockhart,  Colinton,  i.  211. 
Craiglusear,  hill,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 
Craiglush,  loch,  Caputh,  i.  177. 
Craigmaddie,  loch,  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 
Craigmaddie,  seat,  Baldernock,  i.  92. 
Craigman,  in  New  Cumnock,  i.  253. 
Craigmile,  seat,  Kincardine  O'Neil,  ii.  70. 
Craigmill,  estate,  Dallas,  i.  263. 
Craigmill,  hamlet,  Logie,  i.  224,  ii.  205. 
Craigmillar,  castle,  Liberton,  ii.  177. 
Craigmoni,  eminence,  Urquhart,  ii.  583. 
Craigmuie,  Bahnaclellan,  i.  96. 
Craignair  Hill,  Buittle,  i.  159. 
Craignaught,  hill,  Dunlop,  i.  332. 
Craigneil,  castle,  Colmonell,  i.  214. 
Craignethan  Castle,  Lesmahago,  ii.  172. 
Craigneuk,  village,  Lanark,  i.  224. 
Craignish,  parish,  Argyll,  i.  224. 
Craigniston,  burn,  Fordoun,  i.  436. 
Craignuire,  bay,  Torosay,  ii.  551. 

Craigo,  village,  Forfar,  i.  225,  ii.  208,  209. 
Craig-Obney,  in  Auchtergaven,  i.  78,  79. 
Craigoch,  burn,  Portpatrick,  ii.  388. 

Craig-Owl,  in  Tealing,  ii.  533. 

Craig-Phadric,  Inverness,  i.  576,  578. 

Craig-Rossie,  hill,  Auchterarder,  i.  77. 

Craigrothie,  village,  Fife,  i.  225. 

Craigruigh,  hill,  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 

Craigs  of  Coyl,  in  Coylton,  i.  221. 

Craigsanquhar,  house,  Fife,  i.  428. 

Craig-Sparrow,  hill,  Newburgh,  ii.  308. 

Craigston  Castle,  King-Edward  parish,  ii.  75. 

Craigton,  village,  Forfar,  i.  225. 

Craigton-Field,  village,  Dumbarton,  i.  225. 

Craigvinian,  hill,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 

Craigwater,  stream,  Rhynie  and  Essie,  ii. 
419. 

Craigwood,  in  Dunkeld,  i.  330. 

Craig-y-barns,  Dunkeld,  i.  329,  330. 

Craiksland,  in  Dundonald,  i.  320. 

Crail,  burgh,  Fife,  i.  225. 

Crailing,  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  226. 

Crakaig,  bay,  Kilninian,  ii.  577- 

Crakaig,  mansion,  Loth  parish,  ii.  215. 

Crammag,  headland,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 

Cramond,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  226. 

Crane,  loch,  Dunsyre,  i.  341. 

Crane,  loch,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  117- 

Crannich,  district,  Weem,  ii.  595. 

Cranshaws,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  227- 

Cranstackie,  mountain,  Durness,  i.  342. 

Cranston,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  228- 

Cranston  Hill,  near  Glasgow,  i.  484,  486. 

Cranston-Ridel,  Edinburgh,  i.  228. 

Crarie-Knoll,  in  Durisdeer,  i.  342. 

Crathes  Castle,  Banchory-Ternan,  i,  101. 
Vol.  I.— 609 


Crathie  and  Braemar,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i. 

228. 
Craw  Hill,  in  Torphichen,  ii.  553. 
Crawford,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  230. 
Crawpordjohn,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  230. 
Crawfordston,  Tarbolton,  Ayr,  ii.  631. 
Crawfurd  Priory,  Cults,  i.  249. 
Crawfurdland  Castle,  Kilmarnock,  ii.  43. 
Crawfurdsburn  House,  Greenock,  i.  525. 
Crawfurd's-dyke,  Renfrew.     See  Cartsdykc. 
Crawick,  stream,  Sanquhar,  i.  231. 
Crawickbridge,  hamlet,  Dumfries,  i.  231. 
Crawickmill,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  231,  ii. 

453. 
Crawknowes,  farm,  Johnstone,  i.  590. 
Crawley,  spring,  Glencross,  i.  504. 
Crawton,  village,  Kincardine,  i.  232,  336. 
Creach-Bhunn,  mountain,  Argyll,  i.  65. 
Creag-bhan,  hill,  Gigha  and  Cara,  i.  471. 
Crean-Mull,  isles,  Inverness,  i.  232. 
Crear,  farm,   Kilcalmonell  and  Kilberry,  ii. 

26. 
Crease,  lands,  Langton,  ii.  149. 
Cree,  river,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  103,  111,354. 
Creebridge,  village,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  232. 
Creechy,  lands,  Kintore,  ii.  93. 
Creed,  river,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 
Creetown,  burgh,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  232. 
Creich,  parish,  Fife,  i.  232. 
Creich,  loch,  Skye,  ii.  467. 
Creid,  loch,  Stornoway,  Lewis,  ii.  502. 
Creigriabhaeh,  mountain,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Creran,  river  and  loch,  Ardchattan,  i.   60, 

61,  62. 
Creuchies,  in  Blairgowrie,  i.  134. 
Crew  Well,  Newtyle  parish,  ii.  317- 
Criblaw,  hill,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 
Crichie,  village,  Aberdeen.     See  Stuartfield. 
Crichton,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  233. 
Crichtondean,  near  Galashiels,  i.  458. 
Crickup,  stream,  Closeburn,  i.  202. 
CRIEFF,  town,  Perth,  i.  234. 
Crieve,  hill,  Tundergarth,  ii.  565. 
Criffel,  hill,  Newabbey,  ii.  303. 
Crimond,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  236. 
Crimonmogate,  estate,  Lonmay,  ii.  214,215. 
Crinamail,  isle,  Inverness,  i.  237. 
Crinan  Canal,  Ardrissaig,Arayll,i.  67,ii  135. 
Crinan,  loch,  Kilmartin,  ii.  45. 
Cringletie,  seat,  Peeblesshire,  ii.  351. 
Crocketford,  village,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  237. 
Croe,  river,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Crofthead,  Held,  Whitburn,  ii.  147. 
Crofthead,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  237, ii-  301. 
Croftmoraig,  lands,  Dull,  i.  302. 
Crogo,  Balmaclellan,  i.  95,  96. 
Croich,  district,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  237- 
Crohn,  island,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  237. 
Cro-Marr,  tract,  Midmar,  ii.  253. 
Cromarty,  burgh,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  237- 
CROMARTY,  county.    See  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, and  Kilmuir  Easter. 
Crombie,  ancient  parish,  Torrybum,  ii.  554. 
Crombie,  burn,  Kingoldrum,  ii.  78. 
Crombie,  mansion,  Marnoch,  ii.  232. 
Crombie-Point,  village,  Fife,  i.  239,  ii.  554. 
Cromdale,  parish,  Elgin  and  Inverness,  i. 

239. 
Cromlix,  barony,  Dunblane,  i.  314. 
Cromore,  harbour,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 
Cromwell-Park,  village,  Perth,  i.  240. 
Cromwell's  Mount,  in  Arderseir,  Inverness, 
i.  64. 


Cronan,  lands,  Cupar- Angus,  i.  256.. 
Cronay,  isle,  Sutherland,  i;  240— i.  73. 
Crook,  hamlet,  Elgin,-  i.  240. 
Crook  of  Devon,  village,  Kinross,  i.  240. 
Crooks,  Westerkirk,  ii.  598. 
Crookston,  mansion,  Stow,  ii.  504. 
Croot,  loch,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  115. 
Crosbie,  near  Troon,  Ayr,  ii.  561. 

Crosbie,  residence,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 
Crospul,  loch,  Durness,  i.  342. 

Cross,  isle,  Shetland,  i.  241. 

Cross,  or  Ness,  district,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 
i.  241. 

Cross,  The,  in  Alloa  parish,  Clackmannan, 
i.  38. 

Cross  and  Burness,  parish,  Orkney,  i.  240. 

Crossaig,  stream,  Saddell  and  Skipness,  ii. 
446. 

Cross-Arthurlee.     See  Arthurlee,  Cross. 

Crossbasket,  residence,  Kilbride,  East,  ii.  23. 

Crossburn  House,  Douglas,  i.  288. 

Crossford,  village,  Fife,  i.  241. 

Crossford,  village,  Lanark,  i.  241. 

Crossgates,  hamlet,  Fife,  i.  241. 

Crossgates,  village,  Dunfermline,  i.  241. 

Crosshall,  in  Eccles,  i.  356. 

Crosshill,  district,  Lanark,  i.  241. 

Crossbill,  village,  Ayr,  i.  241,  ii.  115. 

Crosshill,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  242 — i.  192. 

Crosshouse,  village,  Ayr,  i.  242. 

Crosskirk  Bay,  Reay,  ii.  409  ;  chapel,  410. 

Crosslee,  hamlet,  Stow,  ii.  504. 

Crosslee,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  242,  549. 

Crossmichael,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  242. 

Crosspol,  bay,  Tiree  and  Coll,  ii.  544. 

Crossraguel,  abbey,  Kirkoswald,  ii.  120,  121. 

Crossridge,  hill,  Carmichael,  i.  18]. 

Crosswater,  river,  New  Luce,  ii.  217. 

Crovie,  village,  Gamrie,  i.  243. 

Croy  and  Dalcross,  parish,  Nairn  and  In- 
verness, i  243. 

Croyes,   mansion,  Kirkpatrick-Durham,  ii. 
122. 

Cruachan.     See  Ben-Cruaclum. 

Cruachlusach,  hill,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  133. 

Crucifield  Hill,  in  Unst,  ii.  580. 

Cruckie  Height,  Parton,  ii.  347. 

Cruden,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  243. 

Cruggleton,  ancient  parish,  Sorbie,  ii.  473. 

Cruiek,  river,  Menmuir,  ii.  248. 

Cruickston  Castle,  Paisley,  ii.  300,  344. 

Crumstane  Hill,  Langton,  ii.  149. 

Crutherland,  in  Glassford,  i.  500. 

Cuan,  sound,  Kilbrandon   and  Kilchattan, 
ii.  19. 

Cuchullin,  height,  Skye,  ii.  467. 

Cuff  Hill,  Beith,  i.  114. 

Cuffabout,  hamlet,  Linlithgow,  i.  244. 

Cuil,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  188. 

Culbin,  lands,  Dyke  and  Moy,  i.  346. 

Culblair,  farm,  Pettie,  ii.  372. 

Culblean,  in  Tullich,  hill,  i.  507,  508. 

Culbokie,  village,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  244. 

Culcaboch,  village,  Inverness,  i.  244. 

Culdoch,  farm,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  102. 

Culduthel,  house,  Inverness,  i.  577. 

Culfargie,  in  Perthshire,  i.  291. 

Culfreich,  loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 

Cullalo  Hills,  Auchtertool,  i.  81. 

Cullen,  burgh,  Banff,  i.  244. 

Cullgruff,  seat,  Crossmichael,  i.  242. 

Cullicudden.      See  Kirkmichael  and   Cnl^ 
licitdden, 

41 


INDEX. 


Culliness,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Cullisaid,  loch,  Tongue,  ii.  548. 
Cullivoe,  bay,  in  North  Yell,  i.  423,  424. 
Culloch,  in  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 

CuLLOCHBURN,    Or    CoLLOCHBURN,    Village,    i. 

213. 

Culloden,  Field  of,  near  Inverness,  i.  243, 
273,  370. 

Culloden  House,  Inverness,  i.  577- 

Culm,  hill,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 

Culross,  burgh,  Perth,  i.  246. 

Culsamond,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  247. 

Culsh,  Standing  Stones  of,  New  Deer,  i.  275. 

Culsterness,  in  Delting,  i.  278. 

Culter,  estate,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  294,  ii.  368. 

Culter,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  248. 

Culter,  rivulet,  Peterculter,  ii.  367. 

Culterallers,  lands,  Culter,  i.  248. 

Cultereullen,  in  Foveran,  i.  453. 

Culterfell,  in  Broughton,  i.  155. 

Cultoquhey  House,  Monzie,  ii.  276. 

Cults,  parish,  Fife,  i.  248. 

Cults,  in  Banchory-Devenick,  i.  100. 

Culvennan  Hill,  Kirkowan,  ii.  121. 

Culzean  Castle,  Kirkoswald,  ii.  120. 

Cumbernauld,  parish,  Dumbarton,  i.  249, 
379. 

Cumbernauld,  mansion,  Dumbarton,  i.  250. 

Cumbray,  Great,  parish,  Bute,  i.  250. 

Cumbrat,  Little,  Bute,  i.  251. 

Cumhill-Mhor,  hill,  Loehbroom,  ii.  192. 

Cuminestown,  village,  Aberdeen,  i.  251,  ii. 
272. 

Cumloden,  lands,  Minnigaff,  ii.  257,  258. 

Cummertrees,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  252. 

Cummings'  Camp,  Bourtie,  i.  149. 

Cummingston,  village,  Elgin,  i.  252. 
Cumner,  hill,  Carnbee,  i.  183. 
Cumnock,  New,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  252. 
Cumnock,  Old,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  253. 
Cumrue,  loch,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  117- 
Cuniack,  mountain,  Assynt,  county  of  Su- 
therland, i.  73. 
Cunninghame ,  district,  i.  89. 
Cunningham-Head,  house,  Dreghorn,  i.  291. 
Cunninghar,  in  Tillicoultry,  ii.  541. 
Cunningsburgh,  Shetland.     See  Sandwich. 
Cunningsburgh  Hills,  Shetland,  i.  162. 
Cunoquhie,  seat,  Monimail,  ii.  265. 
Cunzierton,  in  Oxnam  parish,  ii.  335. 
CUPAR,  town,  Fife,  i.  254. 
Cupar-Angus,  town,  Perth  and  Forfar,  i. 

256 -i.  179. 
Cupar-Grange,  Bendochy,  i.  1 17,  256. 
Cur,  river,  Strachur,  ii.  505. 
Curfurrach,  in  Enzie,  i.  403. 
Curgarff,  in  Strathdon,ii.  512,  513. 
Curghie,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Curloch,  New  Luce,  ii.  218. 
Curr,  hill,  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  278. 
Curreath,  house,  Dundonald,  i.  320. 
Currie,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  257. 
Currie  Hill,  Edinburghshire,  i.  257,  258. 
Currie  House,  Borthwick,  i.  145. 
Cushnie,  Aberdeen.     See  Leochel. 
Cuthbert's,  St.     See  Edinburgh. 
Cuthbert's,  St.,  cottage,  Kirkcudbright,  ii. 

102. 
Cuthill,   or  Cuttle,  village,  Haddington, 

i.  258. 
Cyder  Hall,  Sutherland,  ii.  523. 
Cypress  Grotto,  Lasswade,  ii.  153. 
Cyrus,  St.,  parish,  Kincardine,  i.  258. 

610 


D 


Daan,  burn,  Edderton,  i.  359. 
Dail,  house,  Craignish,  i.  224. 
Daill,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  135. 
Daillt,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  259— i.  106. 

Dairsie,  parish,  Fife,  i.  260. 

Dairsie-Muir,  village,  Dairsie,  ii.  335. 

Dalachy,  farm,  iu  Aberdour,  Fife,  i.  24. 

Dalarossie,  Inverness.     See  M oy. 

Dalaruin,  village,  Campbelltown,  i.  173. 

Dalavich,  Argyll.     See  Kilchrenan. 

Dalbeattie,  village,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  260. 

Dalblair,  in  Auchinleck,  i.  76. 

Dalcross,  Nairn  and  Inverness.    See  Croy 
and  Dalcross. 

Daldawn,  mansion,  Kelton,  ii.  9. 

Daldowie  House,  New  Monkland,  ii.  268. 

Dale,  in  Halkirk,  i.  531. 

Dalgain,  ancient  name  of  Sorn,  ii.  474. 

Dalgarno,  old  parish,  Dumfries,  i,  202. 

Dalgarnoch,  New,  Morton,  ii.  282. 

Dalgarvan,  village,   Ayr,   i.   261 — i.    114, 
489. 

Dalgerrock,  seat,  Colmonell,  i.  213. 

Dalgety,  parish,  Fife,  i.  261. 

Dalginch,  castle,  Markineh,  ii.  232. 

Dalginross,  village,  Perth,  i.  261 — i.  215. 

Dalgoner,  estate,  Dunscore,  i.  339. 

Dalguise,  house,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 

Dalhoan,  barony,  Crosshill,  i.  241. 

Dalhonzie,  mansion,  Comrie,  i.  216. 

Dalhousie,   village,  Edinburgh,  i.  261 — i. 
207. 

Dalhousie-Mains,  Newbattle,  ii.  305. 

Dalilongard,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  337. 

Dalintober,  village,  Argyll,  i.  262 — i.  174. 

Dalkairney  Linn,  in  Straiton,  ii.  506. 

DALKEITH,  town  and  parish,  Edinburgh, 
i.  262  ;  railway,  378  ;  coal  basin,  391. 

Dallas,  parish,  Elgin,  i.  263. 

Dallichip  works,  Bonhill,  i.  141. 

Dalmahoy,  estate,  Ratho,  ii.  403,  404. 

Dalmaik,  old  parish,  now  Drumoak,  i.  294. 

Dalmally,  in  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 

Dalmellington,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  264. 

Dalmeny,  parish,  Linlithgow,  i.  265,  ii.  398. 
Dalmonach  Works,  Bonhill,  i.  141. 
Dalmoni,  valley,  Urquhart,  ii.  583. 
Dalmore,  estate,  Stair,  ii.  484. 
Dalmuir,  village,  Dumbarton,  i.  266,  ii.  59. 
Dalmuir-Shore,  village,  Dumbarton,  i.  266, 

ii.  59. 
Dalnotter,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59,  256. 
Dalpatrick,  in  Dalserf,  i.  270. 
Dalquharran,  lands,  Dailly,  i.  260. 
Dalquhurn,  in  Cardross,  i.  178,  ii.  416. 
Dalrey,  Perthshire,  i.  99. 
Dalrigh,  Kerera  isle,  ii.  14. 
Dalrossie.     See  Moy  and  Dalrossie. 
Dalruadhain,  Argyllshire,  i.  172. 
Dalry,  parish,   Kirkcudbright,   i.   267 — i. 

188. 
Dalry,  town,  Ayr,  i.  266. 
Dalrymple,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  268. 
Dalscairth,  estate,  Troqueer,  ii.  562. 
Dalserf,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  269. 
Dalsholm,  village,  Dumbarton,   i.  270— ii. 

58. 
Dalswinton,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  270 ;  ii. 
112,  113. 


Dalton,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  270. 

Dalton,  Little,  Mouswald,  ii.  285. 

Dalvait,  hamlet,  Dumbarton,  i.  271. 

Dalvey,  Dyke  and  Moy,  i.  346,  347. 

Dalwhat,  stream,  Glencairn,  i.  502. 

Dalwhinnie,  Laggan,  ii.  139. 

Dalyards,  in  Arderseir,  Inverness,  i.  64. 

Dalyell,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 

Dalziel,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  271. 

Dame  Helen's  Castle,  Dalmellington,  i.  265. 

Damend,  farm,  Tulhallan,  ii.  563. 

Damhead,  Dumbarton.     See  Jametson. 

Damhead,  village,  Fife,  Kinross,  and  Perth, 
i.  272— i.  70,  71. 

Damiett,  hill,  Dollar,  i.  283. 

Damsay,  isle,  Firth  and  Stenness,  i.  432. 

Dandaleith,  plain,  Rothes,  ii.  432. 

Daneshalt,  Fife.     See  DunsJmlt. 

Danevale,  seat,  Crossmichael,  i.  242. 

Danger,  Castle  of,  Douglas,  i.  287. 

Daukeith,  mansion,  Symington,  ii.  525. 

Daoire-nam-Mart,  lake,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 

Dardar,  glen,  in  Aberdour,  Aberdeen,  i,  22. 

Dargavel,  house,  Erskine,  i.  406. 

Dargie,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  272. 

Darleith,  in  Bonhill,  i.  ]  41. 

Darlingshaugh,  village,  Roxburgh,  i.  272. 

Darnaway,  Elgin,  i.  346,  347,  392. 

Darngaber  Castle,  Hamilton,  i.  535. 
Darnick,  village,  Roxburgh,  i.  272. 
Darnley,  in  Eastwood,  i.  354. 
Darrach,  hill,  Denny,  i.  278,  279. 
Darvel,  village,  Ayr,  i.  272,  ii.  216. 
David,  St.,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  272,  ii.  226. 
David,  St.,  village,  Fife,  i.  272. 
Davidson's-Mains,   village,    Edinburgh,    i. 

272. 
Daviot,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  272. 
Daviot  and  Dunlichty,  parish,  i.  273. 
Davoch,  in  Boharm,  i.  137. 
Dawan,  loch,  Logie-Coldstone,  ii.  207. 
Dawick,  old  parish,  Peebles,  i.  293. 
Deals  Voe,  in  Tingwall,  ii.  541. 
Dean,  burn,  Borrowstounness,  i.  144. 
Dean,  castle,  Kilmarnock,  ii.  42,  43. 
Dean,  district,  Edinburgh,  i.  274,  373,  378. 
Dean,  river,  Forfarshire  ;  Airlie,  i,  33, 34  ; 

Eassie  and  Nevay,  353  ;  Glammis,  477. 
Dean,  village,  Roxburgh,  i.  274. 
Deanburnhaugh,  village,  Roxburgh,  i.  274. 
Deanston,  district,  Perth,  i.  274. 
Deaothack,  stream,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 
Dechmont,  hill,  Lanark,  i.  169,  170. 
Dechmont-law,  hill,  Livingstone,  ii.  191. 
Dee,  loch,  Minnigaff,  ii.  257. 
Dee,    river,    Birse,   i.    130 ;    Crathie   and 
Braemar,  229  ;    Glenmuick,   507 !    Kin- 
cardine O'Neil,  ii.  70  ;  Kincardineshire, 
71  ;  Maryculter,  234  ;  Peterculter,  367. 
Dee,  river,  Kelton,  ii.  9  ;  Kirkcudbright, 
101,  102  ;  Kirkcudbright  stewartry,  103  ; 
Tongland,  547. 
Dee,  Bridge  of,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  275. 
Deechoid,  hill,  Muckairn,  ii.  288. 
Deep,   North   and   South,  channels,   New- 
burgh,  ii.  306. 
Deepsykehead,  Linton,  ii.  186. 
Deer,  district,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  21. 
Deer  Camp,  Morton,  ii.  282. 
Deer,  New,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  275. 
Deer,  Old,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  275. 
Deer  Sound,  Orkney,  i.  49,  50. 
Deerness,  district,  Orkney,  i.  277 — i.  49. 


INDEX. 


Delfour,  in  Alvie,  Inverness,  i.  42. 
Delgaty  Castle,  in  Turriff,  ii.  567. 
Delting,  parish,  Shetland,  i.  277- 
Delvine  House,  in  Caputh,  i.  177- 
Demyat  Peak,  Logie,  ii.  205. 
Den,  The,  Auchindoir,  i.  75. 
Denburn  vale,  Aberdeen,  i.  12,  13. 
Denfiend,  Monikie,  ii.  265. 
Denhead,  lands,  Cupar- Angus,  i.  256. 
Denholm,  village,  Roxburgh,  i.  278 — i.  194. 
Denino,  Fife.     See  Dunino. 
Denmill,  lands,  in  Abdie,  Fife,  i.  2. 
Demniln,  Liff  and  Benvie,  ii.  179. 
Denny,  town,  Stirling,  i.  278. 
Denoon,  glen,  Glammis,  i.  478. 
Denovan,  village,  Stirling,  i.  279. 
Dens,  estate,  Old  Deer,  i.  276. 
Dercleugh,  loch,  in  Straiton,  ii.  506. 
Derculich,  house,  Dull,  i.  301. 
Dergan,  stream,  Ardchattan,  i.  62. 
Deskfokd,  parish,  Banff,  i.  279. 
Deskry,  river,  Logie-Coldstone,  ii.  207. 
Dess,  burn,  in  Aboyne,  Aberdeen,  i.  31. 
Deuchar,  estate,  in  Fearn,  i.  420. 
Deugh,  river,  Carsphairn,  i.  188. 
Devana,  Peterculter,  ii.  367. 
Devar,  isle,  Campbelltown,  i.  173. 
Devenick.     See  Banchory-Dexenick. 
Devon,  river,  Dollar,  i.  283  ;  Logie,  ii.  205  ; 

Muckart,  289. 
Devon,  Black,  river,  Clackmannan,  i.  199. 
Devonshaw  House,  in  Fossoway,  i.  451. 
Devonside,   village,  Clackmannan,  i.   280, 

ii.  541. 
Dewar,  hill,  Heriot,  i.  541. 
Dewartown,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  280. 
Dhruim,  district,  Kilmorack,  ii.  49. 
Dhu,  loch,  in  Wick,  ii.  610. 
Dhu,  mountain,  Luss,  ii.  222. 
Dhuisk,  river,  Barhill,  i.  1 06. 
Dhuisk  Lodge,  seat,  Colmonell,  i.  213. 
Dhuloch,  loch,  Glenmuick,  i.  507- 
Dighty  Water,  Auchterhouse,  i.  79  ;  Moni- 

fieth,  ii.  264. 
Diltymoss,  Forfarshire,  i.  183. 
Dinard,  stream,  Durness,  i.  342,  343. 
DINGWALL,  burgh,  Ross,  i.  280. 
Dinnet,  burn,  in  Aboyne,  Aberdeen,  i.  31. 
Dinwoodie,    old   chapelry,  Applegarth,   i. 

282— i.  55. 
Dippen  Point,  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 
Dipple,  ancient  parish,  Speymouth,  ii.  478. 
Dippool,  rivulet,  Carnwath,  i.  185. 
Dirleton,  parish,  Haddington,  i.  282. 
Dirlot,  in  Halkirk,  i.  531. 
Dirnanaen,  mansion,  Moulin,  ii.  284. 
Dirrmgton  Laws,  hills,  Longformacus  and 

Ellim,  ii.  212. 
Diru,  loch,  Tongue,  ii.  548. 
Diru-Moir,  in  Sutherland,  i.  360. 
Disblair,  lands,  Fintray,  i.  430. 
Dispolly,  in  Reay  parish,  ii.  409. 
Distincthorn,  hill,  New  Galloway,  i.  460. 
Divach,  burn,  Urquhart,  ii.  582. 
Divie,  river,  Edinkillie,  i.  392,  393. 
Dochart,  loch,  Perthshire,  ii.  366. 
Dochart,  river,  Killin,  ii.   37  ;    Weem,  ii. 

595. 
Dochfour,  house,  Inverness,  i.  577,  578. 
Dodhead,  height,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 
Dodhill,  in  Oldhamstocks,  i.  410. 
Dods  Corse  Stane,  Legerwood,  ii.  161. 
Dods  Farm,  Legerwood,  ii.  161. 

611 


Dog  Castle,  in  Torsay,  Argyll,  ii.  554. 

Dogden  Moss,  Berwickshire,  ii.  601. 

Dog's  Pillar,  Kilmore  and  Kilbride,  ii.  51. 

Dogtown,  farm,  Kinglassie,  ii.  78. 

Dome,  loch,  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 

Dolbeth,  mansion,  Barony  parish,  Glasgow, 
ii.  464. 

Dollar,  town,  Clackmannan,  i.  283. 

Dollar  Law,  hill,  Manor  parish,  ii.  230. 

Dollars,  mansion,  Riccarton,  ii.  421. 

Dollerie,  mansion,  Madderty,  ii.  226. 

Dolphingston,  village,  Haddington,  i.  284, 
ii.  395. 

Dolphinton,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  284. 

Domesdale,  Linlithgow,  ii.  184. 

Don,  river,  Aberdeen,  i.  21  ;  Alford,  35  ; 
Fintray,  430;  Monymusk,ii.  275;  Strath- 
don,  512  ;  Towie,  557. 

Don,  loch,  Torosay,  ii.  551. 

Donald  Caum's  Shealing,  Lochs  parish,  ii. 
199. 

Donan  Castle,  Kintail,  i.  285,  ii.  92. 

Donibristle,  lands,  Fife,  i.  24,  261. 

Doon,  in  Twynholm,  ii.  569. 

Doon,  castle,  in  Straiton,  ii.  507. 

Doon,  fortress,  Kilmorie,  ii.  52. 

Doon,  river,  Dalmellington,  i.  264 ;  Dal- 
rymple,  268  ;  Kirkmichael,  ii.  115  ;  Strai- 
ton, 506. 

Doon,  Loch,  in  Straiton,  ii.  506. 

Doon  Hill,  Spott  parish,  ii.  479. 

Doonpark,  mansion,  Kirkpatrick-Durham, 
ii.  122,  123. 

Dorback,  stream,  Edinkillie,  i.  392,  393. 

Dore  Holm,  isle,  Shetland,  i.  285. 

Dores,  parish,  Inverness,  i.  285. 

Dormont,  house,  Dalton,  i.  271. 

Dornadilla's  Tower,  Durness,  i.  343. 

Dornal,  loch,  Colmonell,  i.  213. 

Dornie  and  Bundaloch,  village,  Ross  and 
Cromarty,  i.  285,  ii.  92. 

Dornoch,  burgh,  Sutherland,  i.  285. 

Dornock,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  287. 

Doras-mor,  sound,  Craignish,  i.  224. 

Dosk,  New,  old  parish,  Edzell,  i.  395. 

Double  Dykes,  encampment,  Stonehouse,  ii. 
500. 

Double  Hill,  Rescobie,  ii.  417. 

Douglas,  stream,  in  Douglas,  i.  288. 

Douglas,  stream,  Inverary,  i.  567. 

Douglas,  town,  Lanark,  i.  287. 

Douglas,  Castle,  town.    See  Castle-Douglas. 

Douglas  Park,  Bothwell,  i.  148. 

Douglas,  Water  of,  Arrochar,  i.  71. 

Douglaston,  village,  Forfar,  i.  289. 

Douloch,  lake,  Inverary,  i.  566,  567. 

Doun,  hill,  Fintry,  i.  431. 

Doune,  farm,  in  Arrochar,  i.  71. 

Doune,  hill,  Dumbartonshire,  i.  304. 

Doune,  mansion,  Rothiemurchus,  ii.  436. 

DOUNE,  town,  Perth,  i.  289,  ii.  39. 

Doune  Lodge,  Kilmadock,  ii.  39. 

Doune  of  Nochty,  Strathdon,  ii.  513. 

Dour,  rivulet,  in  Aberdour,  Fife,  i.  23,  24. 

Doura,  village,  Ayr,  i.  290,  ii.  66,  67. 

Dovecote,  villa,  Inveresk,  ii.  295. 

Dovecot-hall,  Neilston,  ii.  301. 

Dovecotland,  village,  Perth,  i.  290. 

Dovehill,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  290. 

Dovemount  Well,  in  Wilton,  ii.  615. 

Doveron,  river,  Alvah,  i.  40  ;  Banff,  102, 
103  ;  Cabrach,  163  ;  Marnoch,  ii.  232  ; 
Rothiemay,  435  ;  Turriff,  566. 


Dowal,  loch,  Lochcarron,  ii.  193. 

Dowally,  Perth.    See  Dunkeld  and  Dmcally, 

and  Caputh. 
Dowalton,  loch,  Sorbie,  ii.  473. 
Dow  Hill,  Glasgow,  i.  493. 
Dowloch,  lake,  Penpont,  ii.  356. 
Down,  village,  now  Macduff,  Banff,  ii.  225. 
Downan,  in  Inveraven,  i.  568. 
Downfield,  hill,  Kettle,  ii.  16. 
Downhill,  near  Dunbar,  i.  310,  311. 
Downhill,  Easter,  in  Fossoway,  i.  451. 
Downie,  fortress,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 
Downie  Hills,  Monikie,  ii.  264. 
Downie  Park,  Tannadice,  ii.  528. 
Downies,    village,    Banchory-Devenick,    i. 

290— i.  100. 
Draffan,  castle,  Dunino,  i.  326. 
Dragon  Hole,  cave,  Kinfauns,  ii.  73. 
Drainie,  parish,  Elgin,  i.  290. 
Dreel,  burn,  in  Abercrombie,  Fife,  i.  5. 
Dreghorn,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  291. 
Dreghorn  Castle,  in  Colinton,  i.  211. 
Drem,  barony,  Athelstaneford,  i.  74. 
Drimdrissaig,  mansion,  South  Knapdale,  ii. 

134. 
Drimmashie  Moor,  Daviot,  i.  273. 
Drimmie,  hill,  Longforgan,  ii.  210  ;  House, 

211. 
Drimmie,  residence,  Rescobie,  ii.  417. 
Drimmiew,  hill,  Inverury,  i.  581. 
Drimnacreige,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 
Drimsynie  House,  Lochgoilhead,  ii.  196. 
Drimvuick,  Ardchattan,  i.  62. 
Drimyeon,  Gigha  and  Cara,  i.  471. 
Drochil  Castle,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 
Dron,  Longforgan,  ii.  211. 
Dron,  parish,  Perth,  i.  291. 
Drongan,  estate,  Stair,  ii.  484. 
Drongs,  rock,  Northmavine,  ii.  323. 
Dronky,  loch,  Aberfoyle,  Perth,  i.  25. 
Dronley,  village,  Forfar,  i.  292— i.  79,  80. 
Drop,  The,  in  Clunie,  i.  204. 
Dropping  Cave,  in  Slains  and  Forvie,  ii.  468. 
Druid- Hill  Burn,  Penpont,  ii.  356. 
Druidibeg,  Loch,  in  South  Uist,  ii.  576,  577. 
Druid's  Bridge,  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 
Druimadoun,  bay,  Bute,  i.  163. 
Druimbuy,  harbour,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Druimleah,  in  Criech,  i.  233. 
Druim-na-Coup,  in  Tongue,  ii.  548. 
Druim-nam-Ban-Fionn,  Lismore  and  Appin, 

ii.  189. 
Drum,  estate,  Drumoak,  i.  294. 
Drum,  lands,  Liberton,  i.  473,  ii.  177- 
Drum,  Mills  of,  Banchory-Ternan,  i.  100. 
Drumalbin,  hill,  Carmichael,  i.  181. 
Drum-Ashi,  hill,  Dores,  i.  285. 
Drumaw,  camp,  Ayton,  i.  91. 
Drumblade,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  292. 
Drumblair,  house,  Forgue,  i.  444. 
Drumburn,  hamlet,  Newabbey,  ii.  304. 
Drumcarro  Craig,  in  Cameron,  i.  172. 
Drumclog,  in  Avondale,  i.  84. 
Drumcoltran,  tower,  Kirkgunzeon,  ii.  106. 
Drumderflt,  estate,  Knoekbain,  ii.  137. 
Drumdol,  lands,  Fife,  i.  97- 
Drumdow,  estate,  Stair,  ii.  484. 
Drumduan,  house,  Forres,  i.  445. 
Drumeldrie-Muir,  village,  Fife,  i.  292. 
Drumelie,  loch,  Lethendy  and  Kinloch,  ii. 

173. 
Drumfin,  house,  Tobermory,  ii.  546. 
Drumfurrich,  district,  Aberlour,  Banff,  i.  27. 

4  I  2 


INDEX. 


Drumglay,  village,  Forfar,  i.  293. 

Drumidoon,  headland,  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 

Drumin,  castle,  Inveraven,  i.  568. 

Druminnor,  seat,  Auchindoir,  i.  75. 

Drumkilbo,  mansion,  Meigle,  ii.  243. 

Drumlamford,  seat,  Colmonell,  i.  213. 

Druml  an  rig,  palace,  Dumfries,  i.  293,  ii.  356. 

Drumlemble,  village,  Argyll,  i.  293. 

Drumley,  house,  Tarbolton,  ii.  530. 

Drumlithie,  village,  Kincardine,  i.  293,  501. 

Drumlochan,  burn,  Ardclach,  i.  63. 

Drumlochy,  castle,  Blairgowrie,  i.  135. 

Drummachargan,  eminence,  Monivaird  and 
Strowan,  ii,  266. 

Drummelzier,  parish,  Peebles,  i.  293,  ii.  567. 

Drummetermont,  village,  Forfar,  i.  293. 

Drummine,  forest,  Edinkillie,  i.  392. 

Drummond,  barony,  Drymen,  i.  297. 

Drummond,  hills,  Laggan,  ii.  139. 

Drummond,  loch  and  castle,  Muthill,  ii.  297- 

Drummond,  village,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i. 
294,  ii.  65. 

Drummore  Castle,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  103. 

Drummossie  Moor,  Daviot,  i.  273. 

Drumnadrochit,  in  Urquhart,  ii.  583. 

Drumnamarg,  estate,  Killiernan,  ii.  36. 

Drumoak,   parish,   Aberdeen  and    Kincar- 
dine, i.  294. 

Drumochtor,  forest,  Laggan,  ii.  139. 

Drumochy,  village,  Fife,  i.  295. 

Drumore,  loch,  Kirkmichae),  ii.  115. 

Drumore,  village,  Wigton,  i.  295,  ii.  114. 

Drumpark,  residence,  Kirkpatrick-Irongray, 
ii.  125. 

Drumpellier,  in  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 

Drumquhindle,  Little,  Methlick,  ii.  249. 

Drumry,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 

Drdms,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  295. 

Drums,  house,  Erskine,  i.  405. 

Drumsargart,  barony,  Lanark,  i.  169. 

Drumseugh,  lands,  Edinburgh,  i.  373. 

Drumsturdt-Muir,  village,  Forfar,  i.  295. 

Drumtochty,  Kincardineshire,  i.  436. 

Drumuachder,  hill,  Perth,  ii.  365. 

Drumuachter,  forest,  Kingussie,  ii.  81. 

Drumvaich,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  295. 

Drunkie,  lands,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  387. 

Dryburgh,  village,  Berwick,  i.  295. 

Dryburgh  House,  Mertoun,  ii.  249. 

Dryburn,  stream,  Dunbar,  i.  311. 

Dryburn,  stream,  Dunsyre,  i.  340. 

Dryden,  seat,  Lasswade,  ii.  429. 

Dryfe,  river,  Applegarth,  i.  55  ;  Dryfesdale, 
296  ;  Lochmaben,  ii.  198. 

Dryfesauds,  Dumfriesshire,  i.  589. 

Dryfesdale,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  295. 

Dryhope  Castle,  Yarrow,  ii.  618. 

Drymen,  parish,  Stirling,  i.  290. 

Dualt,  glen,  Killearn,  ii.  35. 

Duard,  promontory,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 

Duart,  in  Torosay,  Argyll,  ii.  550,  551. 

Dubbieside,  village,  Fife,  i.  297,  ii.  175. 

Dubbs,  in  Stevenston  parish,  ii.  487. 

Dubbs,  river,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  201. 

Duchal,  mansion,  Kilmalcolm,  ii.  39. 

Duchal,  river,  Kilmalcolm,  ii.  39. 

Duchess'  Cave,  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 

Duchoille,  castle,  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 

Ducbrae  House,  in  Balmaghie,  i.  97. 

Ducbray,  hill,  Dunkeld,  i.  329. 

Duckray,  stream,  Aberfoyle,  Perth,  i.  25. 

Duddingston,  parish,   Edinburgh,   i.   297, 
370. 

612 


Duddingston,  Easter,  village,    Edinburgh, 

i.  298. 
Duddingston    House,    seat,    in    Abercorn, 

Linlithgow,  i.  4. 
Duddingston,  Wester,  village,  Edinburgh, 

i.  298. 
Duddingston-Mills,   village,   Edinburgh,   i. 

298. 
Duddy  Law,  Longformacus  and   Ellim,  ii. 

212. 
Dudhope,  castle,  Dundee,  i.  320. 
Dudwick,  house,  Ellon,  i.  402. 
Duff,  stream,  Innerkip,  i.  561. 
Duff  House,  near  Banff,  i.  103. 
Dufftown,  village,  Banff,  i.  298. 
Duffus,  parish,  Elgin,  i.  299. 
Dugalston,  estate,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 
Dugden,  moss,  Greenlaw,  i.  521. 
Dugharidh,  Kilmorie,  ii.  52. 
Duibhe,  stream,  Fortingal,  i.  448. 
Duich,  loch,  Glenshiel,  i.  510. 
Duirinish,  parish,  Inverness,  i.  299. 
Duke's  Walk,  Edinburgh,  i.  375. 
Dularran  Holm,  Balmaclellan,  i.  96. 
Dulcapon,  barony,  Dunkeld,  i.  329. 
Dulcie,  in  Ardclach,  Nairn,  i.  63. 
Dull,  parish,  Perth,  i.  300. 
Dullatur,  bog,  Cumbernauld,  i.  250. 
Dullen,  stream,  Mortlaeh,  ii.  280,  281. 
Dulnan,  stream,  Duthil,  i.  345. 
Duloch,  house,  Iuverkeithing,  i.  573. 
Dulzellowlie,  Kirkoswald,  ii.  120. 
Dumbarney,  Perth.    See  Dunbarny. 
DUMBARTON,  burgh,  i.  302. 
DUMBARTONSHIRE,  i.  303. 
Dumbennan,  old  parish,  Huntly,  i.  551. 
Dumbroch,  loch,  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 
Dumbuck,  hills,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59. 
Dumbuck,  seat,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59. 
Dumbuck,  village,  Dumbarton,  i.  304. 
Dumbuils,  estate,  Forgandenny,  i.  443. 
Dumcrief,  residence,  Moffat,  ii.  261. 
Dumfin,  fortification,  Luss,  ii.  223. 
DUMFRIES,  burgh,  i.  305. 
Dumfries  House,  Old  Cumnock,  i.  254. 
DUMFRIESSHIRE,  i.  308. 
Dumgree,  old  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  589. 
Dun,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  309. 
Duu-a-Bheallich,  fortress,  North  Knapdale, 

ii.  134. 
Dunachton,  lands,  in  Alvie,  i.  42. 
Dunagoil,  bay,  Kingarth,  ii.  74. 
Dunagoil,  fort,  Kingarth,  ii.  73. 
Dunain,  house,  Inverness,  i.  577. 
Dunan,  promontory,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Dunans,  lands,  Kilmodan,  ii.  48. 
Dunardary,  hill,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  133. 
Dunaverty,  bay,  Southend,  Argyll,  ii.  476. 
DUNBAR,  burgh,  Haddington,  i.  310,  364, 

367. 
Dunbarny,  parish,  Perth,  i.  312. 
Dunbarrow,  hill,  Dunnicheu,  i.  334. 
Dunbeath,  hamlet,  Caithness,  i.  313 — i.  118, 

166. 
Dunbeath,  river,  Latheron,  ii.  154. 
Dunblane,  town,  Perth,  i.  313. 
Dunblane,  Well  of,  near  Bridge  of  Allan,  i. 

36. 
Duu-bo-chaistil,  in  Callander,  i.  168. 
Dunbog,  parish,  Fife,  i.  314. 
Duncanlaw,  in  Yester,  ii.  621. 
Duncansbay,  township,  Caithness,  i.  315— i. 

175. 


Dun-Charloway,  fort,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  199. 

Dun-Chine,  in  Gigha,  Argyll,  i.  472. 

Dunchorvil,  in  Inverary,  i.  566. 

Dunchuaich,  in  Inverary,  i.  566,  567. 

Duncol,  estate,  Kirkmahoe,  ii.  112. 

Duncow,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  315,  ii.  112, 
113. 

Duncrivie,  village,  Kinross,  i.  315— i.  70, 
71. 

Duncruib,  house,  Dunning,  i.  335. 

Duncruin,  hill,  Kilmaronock,  ii.  44. 

Dundaf  Lin,  cascade,  Lanark,  ii.  143. 

Dundaff,  Balfron,  i.  93. 

Dundaff  Hill,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320. 

Dundargue,  castle,  in  Aberdour,  Aberdeen, 
i.  22,  23. 

Dundas,  Dalmeny,  i.  265. 

DUNDEE,  burgh  and  sea-port,  Forfarshire ; 
history,  i.  316  ;  situation,  316  ;  trade  and 
manufactures,  317  ;  burgh,  317  ;  parish, 
318  ;  churches,  schools,  &c,  319. 

Dundee  and  Arbroath  railway,  i.  58,  318. 

Dundee  and  Newtyle  railway,  i.  318. 

Dundonald,  in  Auchterderrau,  i.  78. 

Dun-Donald,  mound,  North  Knapdale,  ii. 
134. 

Dundonald,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  320. 

Dundonuell,  lands,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192,  193. 

Dundrennan,  village,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  321. 

Dundroich,  hill,  Eddlestone,  i.  359. 

Dunduff,  castle,  Maybole,  ii.  241. 

Dunduff,  lake,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 

Dunduramh,  castle,  Lochgoilhead,  ii.  196. 

Dundurcus,  suppressed  parish,  i.  137  J  "• 
431,  432. 

Dundurn,  ancient  parish,  Perth,  i.  215. 

Dundyvan,  village,  Lanark,  i.  321,  ii.  270. 

Dundyvan,  New,  village,  Lanark,  i.  321. 

Dune  Alliscaig,  in  Edderton,  i.  359. 

Dunearn,  hill,  Burntisland,  i.  160,  161. 

Dunearh,  hill,  Nairnshire,  i.  63. 

Duneaton,  river,  Crawfordjohn,  i.  231. 

DUNFERMLINE,  burgh,  Fifeshire  ;  his- 
tory, i.  321  ;  situation,  322  ;  trade  and 
manufactures,  323 ;  municipal  affairs, 
323  ;  parish,  324  ;  ecclesiastical  affairs, 
325  ;  antiquities,  325. 

Dun-Fillan  Hill,  Perthshire,  i.  429. 

Dungart,  Little,  farm,  Ayrshire,  i.  214. 

Dungavel,  hill,  Wiston,  ii.  616. 

Dungeon,  loch,  Kells,  ii.  6. 

Dungivel,  hill,  Avondale,  i.  84. 

Dunglass,  glen,  Cockburnspath,  i.  206. 

Dunglass,  hill,  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 

Dunglass,  seat,  Berwickshire,  i.  126. 

Dunglass  Castle,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  60. 

Dunglow,  hill,  Cleish,  i.  201. 

Dungoiaeh,  hill,  Strathblane,  ii.  511,  512. 

Dungoil,  bay,  Bute,  i.  163. 

Dungyle,  hill,  Kelton,  ii.  9,  10. 

Dunhead,  fort,  Carmylie,  i.  183. 

Duniaa  Hill,  Bedrule,  i.  113. 

Dun-ii,  hill,  Iona,  i.  582. 

Dunikier  Law,  Kilconquhar,  ii.  28. 

Dunino,  parish,  Fife,  i.  326. 

Dunipace,  parish,  Stirling,  i.  326. 

Dunira,  mansion,  Comrie,  i.  216. 

Dunjop,  house,  Tongland,  ii.  547- 

Dunkeld  and  Dowally,  parish,  Perth,  i. 
327. 

Dunkeld,  Little,  parish,  Perthshire,  i.  331 

— i.  177- 
Dunlappie,  old  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  516. 


INDEX. 


Dunijchty,   Inverness.      See  Daviot  and 

Dunlichty. 
Dunlop,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  332. 
Dunlugas,  seat,  in  Alvah,  Banff,  i.  41. 
Dun  Mac  Sniachan,  eminence,  Ardchattan, 

i.  62. 
Dunman,  hill,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  1 13. 
Dun-mhie  Raonaill,  Kilnuiver  and  Kilmel- 

foi'd,  ii.  57. 
Dunmore,  and  Dunmore  Park,  Stirling,  i. 

334— i.  34. 
Dunmore,  fort,  Monzie,  ii.  276. 
Dunmore,  hill,  Fife,  i.  314,  315. 
Dunmore  Castle,  Kilcalmonell  and  Kilberry, 

ii.  26. 
Dun-naom-haig,  fort,  Kildalton,  ii.  30. 
Dunuemarl,  castle,  Culross,  i.  246. 
Dunnet,  parish,  Caithness,  i.  333. 
Dunnichen,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  334. 
Dunnidald,  house,  i.  222. 
Dunnideer,  hill,  Insch,  i.  563,  564. 
Dunnikier  House,  Kirkcaldy,  ii.  98,  347. 
Dunning,  parish,  Perth,  i.  335. 
Dunnottar,  parish,  Kincardine,  i.  335 — i.  7. 
Dun-o-deer,  in  Chapel  of  Garioch,  i.  464. 
Dunolly,  castle,  Kilmore  and  Kilbride,  ii. 

51. 
Dunoon  and  Kilhun,  parish,  Argyll,  i.  336. 
Dunphail  House,  Edinkillie,  i.  393. 
Dunreay,  hill,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Dunreggan,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  337. 
Dunrobin,  castle,  Golspie,  i.  511. 
Dunrod,  lands,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  100,  102. 
Dunrod,  rivulet,  Innerkip,  i.  561. 
Dunrossness,  parish,  Shetland,  i.  338. 
Dunrostan,  stream,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  133. 
Dun-scaich,  building,  Sleat  parish,  Skye,  ii. 

471. 

Dunscore,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  338. 

Dunscriben,  fort,  Urquhart,  ii.  583. 

DUNSE,  town,  Berwick,  i.  339. 

Dunshelt,  village,  Fife,  i.  340. 

Dunsinnan  Hill,  Collace,  i.  211,  ii.  233. 

Dunsinnan  House,  Collace,  i.  211. 

Dunskeath  Castle,  Nigg,  ii.  318. 

Dunskeig,  fort,  Kilcalmonell  and  Kilberry, 
ii.  26. 

Dunskey,  Portpatrick,  ii.  387,  388. 

Dunslaw,  eminence,   Roxburgh   parish,  ii. 
439. 

Dunstaffnage,  Kilmore  and  Kilbride,  ii.  50. 

Dunsyre,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  340. 

Duntaynish,  hill,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  133. 

Duntiblae,  mansion,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 

Dunxocher,  district,  Dumbarton,  i.  341,  ii. 
59,  60. 

Duutreath,  castle,  Strathblane,  ii.  510,  511. 

Duntroon  Castle,  Kilmartin,  ii.  44,  45. 

Duntulm,  bay,  Kilmuir,  ii.  53. 

Dunure,  castle,  Maybole,  ii.  241. 

Dunure,  fishing  harbour,  Maybole,  ii.  240. 

Dunvegan,  Duirinish,  i.  300. 

Dupplin,  ancient  parish,  Perth,  i.  5  ;  church, 
i.  6. 

Dupplin  Castle,  seat,  Aberdalgie  and  Dup- 
plin, i.  6. 

Dura-Den,  Fifeshire,  i.  195,  ii.  10. 

Durhamhill,  mansion,  Kirkpatrick-Durham, 
ii.  122. 

Durie,  lands,  Leven,  ii.  175,  457,  458. 

Durinish,  Isle  of  Skye.     See  Duirinish. 

Durisdeer,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  341. 

Durn,  hill,  Fordyce,  i.  437,  438. 
613 


Durn,  streamlet,  Fordyce,  ii.  391. 
Durness,  parish,  Sutherland,  i.  342,  360. 
Duror,  district,  Argyll,  i.  343. 
Durran,  loch,  Olrick,  ii.  328. 
Durrington-Laws,  Longformacus,  i.  512. 
Durris,  parish,  Kincardine,  i.  344. 
Dusk,  stream,  Beith,  i.  114. 
Duthil,  parish,  Elgin  and  Inverness,  i.  344. 
Dwarfie-Stone,  in  Hoy  and  Grsemsay,  i.  550. 
Dwarrick,  headland,  Caithness,  i.  166. 
Dyce,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  345,  ii.  225. 
Dye,  river,  Cranshaws,  i.  227. 
Dye,  river,  Strachan,  ii.  504. 
Dyke  and  Moy,  parish,  Elgin,  i.  346. 
Dyrock,  river,  Kirkmiehael,  ii.  115. 
DYSART,  burgh,  Fife,  i.  347— i.  1. 
Dysart,  lands,  Marytown,  ii.  236. 


E 


Eagerness,  headland,  Sorbie,  ii.  473,  474. 
Eaglescarnie,  estate,  Bolton,  i.  140. 
Eaglesfield,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  349,  ii. 

133. 
Eaglesham,  parish,  Renfrew,  i.  349. 
Eagleshay,  isle,  Orkney,  i.  351. 
Eagleshay,  isle,  Shetland,  i.  351,  ii.  323. 
Ealan.     See  EiUan. 
Earl-Cairney,  in  Dalmeny,  i.  266. 
Earl's  Burn,  near  Denny,  i.  278. 
Earlsferry,  burgh,  Fife,  i.  351. 
Earlshall,  mansion,  Leuchars,  ii.  174. 
Earl's  Hill,  Ellon,  i.  401. 
Earl's  Hill,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320. 
Earl's  Knoll,  eminence,  Stronsay,  ii.  346. 
Earl's  Seat,  hill,  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 
Earlston,  house,  Borgue,  i.  142. 
Earlston,  stream,  Dairy,  i.  267. 
Earlstoun,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  351. 
Earn,  Loch,  Perthshire,  ii.  194. 
Earn,    river,   Auehterarder,   i.   77  ;    Dun- 

baruy,  313  ;  Gask,  469  ;  Monivaird  and 

Strowan,  ii.  267. 
Earn,  Bridge  of,  village,  Perth,  i.  353 — 

i.  313. 
Earuock,  Hamilton,  i.  534,  535. 
Easdale,  isle,  Argyll,  i.  353,  ii.  19. 
Easnambroc,  waterfall,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 
Eassie  and  Nevay,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  353. 
East  Coaltown.    See  Coaltown,  East.    And 

all  places  having  a  similar  distinguishing 

prefix  will  be  found  under  tlie  proper  name. 
East,  parish.     See  Aberdeen. 
Eastbarns,  village,  Dunbar,  i.  354 — i.  312. 
East-Burn,  Stewarton  parish,  ii.  488. 
Eastburn,  stream,  Kirkcaldy,  ii.  98. 
East-Church,  district,  Brechin,  i.  153. 
Eastend,  mansion,  Carmichael,  i.  181. 
Easter-Elchies,  mansion,  ii.  136. 
Easterhill,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 
Easterhouse,  in  Old  Monkland,  i.  241,  ii. 

269. 
Easter-Skene,  mansion,  Skene  parish,  ii.  466. 
Eastertown,  hill,  Fyvie,  i.  456. 
Eastfield,  Rutherglen,  ii.  442. 
East-Head,  near  Portsoy,  i.  438. 
Easthouses,  village,  Newbattle,  i.  354,  ii. 

305. 
Eastriggs,  farm,  Dornock,  i.  287- 
Eastwood,  parish,  Renfrew,  i.  354. 
Ebrie,  valley,  Ellon,  i.  401,  402. 
Eccles,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  355. 


Ecclescraig,  Kincardine.     See  Cyrus,  St. 
Ecclesfechan,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  356,543, 

544. 
Eccles  House,  Penpont,  ii.  356. 
Ecclesmachan,  parish,  Linlithgow,  i.  356. 
Echaig,  river,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  337. 
Echt,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  356. 
Eck,  Loch,  Strachur,  ii.  505. 
Eckford,  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  357. 
Eday,  Orkney.     See  Stronsay  and  Eday. 
Edderton,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  358. 
Eddlestone,  parish,  Peebles,  i.  359. 
Eddlestone,  river,  Peebles,  ii.  350. 
Eddrachillis,  parish,  Sutherland,  i.  360. 
Eden,  river,    St.   Andrew's,  i.   47  ;  Ceres, 
194  ;    Cupar,   256  ;    Kemback,   ii.    10  ; 
Kettle,  15  ;  Strathmiglo,  514. 
Eden,  river,  Ednam,  i.  393,  394  ;  Leger- 
wood,  ii.  1C0 ;  Stitchell  and  Hume,  497  ; 
Westruther,  601. 
Eden  Castle,  King-Edward  parish,  ii.  74. 
Eden  House,  King-Edward  parish,  ii.  75. 
Edenkillie.     See  Edinkillie. 
Edenton,  village,  in  Collessie,  Fife,  i.  361. 
Edenwood,  mansion,  Ceres,  i.  195. 
Ederlin,  loch,  Kilmichael-Glassary,  ii.  47. 
Edgehead,  village,  Liberton,  i.  473. 
Edge  Moss,  Blantyre,  i.  136. 
Edgerston,  house,  Jedburgh,  i.  587,  588. 
Edinample,  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 
Edinbarnet,  seat,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59. 
EDINBURGH,  i.  361  :— 

Early  History,  361. 

Events  of  the  14th  century,  362. 

Of  the  15th,  362. 

And  of  the  16th,  362. 

Era  of  the  Reformation,  363. 

Occurrences  connected  with  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots,  364 

And  with  James  VI.,  365. 

Events  of  the  17th  century,  366. 

Proceedings  of  the  Covenanters,  366. 

The  Parliamentary  War,  367. 

Era  of  the  Revolution,  368. 

Important  Events  of  the  18th  century, 
368. 

Efforts  of  the  Pretender  in  1715,  369. 

And  in  1745,  369. 

Events  of  the  19th  century,  370. 

Royal  visits,  371. 

General  Description  of  the  city,  371. 

Its  extension  at  various  periods,  372. 

Notice  of  the  Castle  :  the  Regalia,  373. 

Of  Holyrood  Abbey  and  palace,  374. 

Of  the  Parliament-House,  and  the 
Libraries  of  the  Advocates  and  the 
Writers  to  the  Signet,  375. 

Of  the  College  of  Physicians,  that  of 
Surgeons,  and  the  Medical  Society, 
376. 

Of  the  Royal  Exchange,  and  the  Bank 
of  Scotland,  376. 

The  Register  Office,  377. 

Royal  Institution  and  other  Literary 
and  Scientific  Institutions ;  Assembly 
Rooms  ;  Theatre,  377. 

Monuments  to  Nelson,  David  Hume, 
Lord  Melville,  the  Earl  of  Hope- 
toun,  George  IV.,  and  Pitt ;  the 
National  Monument ;  Monuments  to 
Playfair,  Stewart,  Burns,  and  Scott, 
377- 


INDEX. 


EDINBURGH,  continued. 

Lighting,   &c,  Railways  and  Canal, 
378. 

Municipal   Affairs  ;    County   Hall  ; 

Prisons,  379. 
History,  Government,  Buildings,  of  the 

University,  381. 
New   College,  High  School,  and  Aca- 
demy, 382. 
Ecclesiastical      arrangements,      and 

Places  of  Worship  ;    High  Church 

Parish,  383. 
Old  Church,  Tolbooth,  Trinity  College, 

New  North,  and  Tron  Church,  384. 
The    Old    Grey    Friars',    New    Grey 

Friars',  St.  Andrew's,   St.  George's, 

Lady  Yester's,  St.  Mary's,  and  St. 

Stephen's  Parishes,  384. 
Canongate,  St.  Cuthbert's,  Greenside, 

and  St.  John's,  385. 
Former  Quoad  Sacra  Pai'ishes,  386. 

Hospitals  and  other  Charitable  In- 
stitutions ;  Heriot's  Hospital,  386. 
George  Watson's,  John  Watson's,  Mer- 
chants' Maiden,  and  Trades'  Maiden 
Hospitals,  387. 
Orphan,  Gillespie's,   Donaldson's,  and 

Trinity  Hospitals,  388. 
The  Royal  Infirmary,  Public  Dispen- 
sary,  Lunatic  Asylum,  Asylum  for 
the   Blind,  and  Institution  for  Deaf 
and  Dumb,  388. 
Fettes'   Endowment,   Chalmers'   Hos- 
pital,  and   Miscellaneous   Charities, 
389. 
Eminent  Natives,  389. 

See  also  Leith,  ii.  161. 
EDINBURGHSHIRE,  i.  390. 
Edingarth,  seat,  Banffshire,  i.  105. 
Edingham,  in  Urr,  ii.  585. 
Edingight,  property,  Grange,  i.  517,  518. 
Edinglassie,  house,  Strath- Don,  ii.  532. 
Edinkens,  bridge,  Innerwick,  i.  563. 
Edinkillie,  parish,  Elgin,  i.  392 — i.  63. 
Edinshall,  castle,  Dunse,  i.  340. 
Edintore,  seat,  Keith,  ii.  4. 
Edinville,  hamlet,  Elgin,  i.  393. 
Edinvillie,  district,  Aberlour,  Banff,  i.  27. 
Edlewood,  house,  Hamilton,  i.  534. 
Edmonston,  mansion,  Biggar,  i.  128. 
Edmonstone,  in  Inveresk,  i.  570. 
Edmonstone,  village,   Edinburgh,  i.  393,  ii. 

313. 
Ednam,  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  393. 
Ednam  House,  Kelso,  ii.  8. 
Edrington,  lands,  Mordington,  ii.  277,  278. 
Edrom,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  394. 
Edward,  King,  parish.     See  King-Edward. 
Edzell,  parish,  Kincardine  and  Forfar,  i. 

395. 
Efort,  loch,  in  North  Uist,  ii.  574. 
Eggmore,  lands,  Dumfries,  i.  256. 
Eglinton  Castle,  Kilwinning,  ii.  66,  67. 
Eglismonichty,  ancient  chapelry,  Monifieth, 

ii.  263. 
Eigg,  island,  Inverness,  i.  396. 
Eil,  loch,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 
Eilan-na-gaul,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 
Eildon,  hamlet,  Roxburgh,  i.  396. 
Eildon  Hills,  Melrose,  i.  396,  ii.  246. 
EiLEAN-A-IiMRic,  isle,  Eddrachillis,  i.  396. 
614 


Eilean-a-Gharin,  isle,  Assynt,  i.  396. 
Eilean-an-Dd,  isles,  Assynt,  i.  396. 
Eilean-an-Righ,  isle,  Laggan,  ii.  140. 
Eilean-Mhor,  isle,  Tiree  and  Coll,  ii.  544. 
Eilean-Mhuin,  isle,  Argyll  and  Inverness, 

i.  396. 
Eilean-More,  isle,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 
Eilean-na-Coomb,  isle,  Sutherland,  i.  351. 
Eilean-na-Gaeil,  isle,  Tongue,  ii.  549. 
Eilean-na-Gamhna,  isle,  South  Kuapdale,  ii. 

134. 
Eilean-na-Muick,  isle,  South  Knapdale,  ii. 

134. 
Eilean-nan-Caorach,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 
Eilean-nan-Con,  isle,  Laggan,  ii.  140. 
Eilean-nan-Naomh,  isle,  Sutherland,  i.  351, 

ii.  549. 
Eilean-nan-Ron,   isle,   Sutherland,  i.  351, 

ii.  549. 
Eilean'n  Tagart,  Kilchrenan  and  Dalavich, 

ii.  27. 
Eirde  Houses,  in  Strathdon,  ii.  514. 
Eishart,  loch,  Sleat  parish,  Skye,  ii.  470. 
Elan  Achlearish,  Priest  isle,  Lochbroom,  ii. 

395. 
Elan-Duirnish,  isle  in  Ardchattan,  Argyll, 

i.  61. 
Elan-nan- Each,  isle,  Argyll,  ii.  288. 
Elein-an-Stalcaire,   Lismore  and  Appin,  ii. 

190. 
Elein-Loch-Oscair,  isle,  Lismore  and  Appin, 

ii.  189. 
Elchaig,  river,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Elchies,  ancient  parish,  Knockando,  ii.  135. 
Elderslie,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  396. 
Elderslie  House,  Renfrew  parish,  ii.  414. 
Eldin,  estate,  Lasswade,  ii.  154. 
Eldrig,  village,  Wigton,  i.  396. 
Elean-Munde,  ancient  parish,  Lismore  and 

Appin,  ii.  188. 
Elgar,  isle,  Orkney,  i.  396. 
ELGIN,  burgh,  i.  397. 
ELGINSHIRE,  i.  400. 
Elhardholm,   isle,  Shapinshay,   Orkney,  ii. 

462. 
Elibank  Cottage,  Yarrow,  ii.  618. 
Elidarwick,  harbour,  Shapinshay,  Orkney, 

ii.  461. 
Elie,  parish,  Fife,  i.  400. 
Eliock,  lands,  Sanquhar,  ii.  454. 
Eliogary,  in  Barra,  i.  108. 
Ellain-Imersay,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 
Elian.     See  Eilean. 
Elland-Heirrig,  Inverchaolain,  i.  569. 
Ellandonan  Castle,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i. 

285. 
Ellanfada,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 
Ellenabaich,  village,  Argyll,  i.  401. 
Ellenerton,  village,  Forfar,  i.  401. 
Eller-Holm,  isle,  Orkney,  i.  396. 
Elliesland,  farm,  Dunscore,  i.  339. 
Ellieston,  lands,  St.  Boswell's,  i.  146. 
Ellim,  Berwick.     See  Longformacus. 
Elliot,  river,  Arbirlot,  Forfar,  i.  56. 
Elliston  Castle,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  203. 
Ellon,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  401. 
Ellsrickle,  village,  Lanark,  i.  402,  ii.  590, 

591. 
Elot,  stream.     See  Elliot. 
Elphinstone,  village,  Haddington,  i.  402. 
Elrick,  mansion,  New  Machar,  ii.  226. 
Elshieshields,  mansion,  Lochmaben,  ii.  198. 
Elsick,  Fetteresso,  i.  420. 


Elsness,  district,  Lady  parish,  Orkney,  ii. 
138. 

Elsridgehill,  or  Ellsrickle,  village,  i.  402. 

Elst,  loch,  Criech,  i.  234. 

Elvingston  House,  Gladsinuir,  i.  476. 

Elwick,  harbour,  Shapinshay,  Orkney,  ii. 
461,  462. 

Embo,  in  Dornoch,  i.  286. 

Encrogo,  loch,  Crossraichael,  i.  242. 

End,  Loch,  Coylton,  i.  221. 

End,  Loch,  Newabbey,  ii.  303. 

Endrick,  river,  Drymen,  i.  296  ;  Fintry, 
431  ;  Kilmaronock,  ii.  44  ;  Stirlingshire, 
496. 

Endrick- Bank,  mansion,  Drymen,  i.  297. 

Engine,  New  and  Old,  hamlets,  Edinburgh, 
i.  402. 

Enhallow,  island,  Orkney,  i.  402. 

Enneric,  stream,  Urcmhart,  ii.  582. 

Ennich,  loch,  Rothiemurchus,  ii.  436. 

Enoch's,  St.,  Hall,  in  Bothwell,  i.  148. 

Ensay',  isle,  Harris,  i.  403 — i.  118. 

Enterkin,  burn,  Durisdeer,  i.  342. 

Enterkine,  house,  Tarbolton,  ii.  530. 

Enzie,  district,  in  Bellie,  and  in  Rathven,  i. 
403. 

Enzieholm,  farm,  Westerkirk,  ii.  599. 

Eorsa,  isle,  Kilfiniehen  aud  Kilviceuen,  ii.  33. 

Epidium  Promontorium,  Southend,  ii.  476. 

Erchless  Castle,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  64. 

Eregie,  mansion,  Dores,  i.  285. 

Eriboll,  loch,  Durness,  i.  343. 

Erichkie,  stream,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  132. 

Ericht,  loch,  Perthshire,  ii.  81, 139,  365. 

Ericht,  river,  Blairgowrie,  i.  134  ;  Rattray, 
ii.  406. 

Erichtside  Mill,  Rattray,  ii.  407. 

Eridine  House,  Kilchrenan  and  Dalavich, 
ii.  27. 

Erigarth,  bay,  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 

Erines,  mansion,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 

Eriska,  isle,  in  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 

Eriskay,  isle,  in  South  Uist,  i.  403. 

Erisort,  loch,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  199,  200. 

Erkless  Castle,  Kilmorack,  i.  112. 

Ernan,  stream,  Strathdon,  ii.  512. 

Ernespie,  seat,  Crossmichael,  i.  242. 

Eroeht,  loch  and  river,  Fortingal,  i.  448. 

Erraid,  isle,  Mull  district,  Argyll,  ii.  292. 

Errickstane-Brae,  hill,  Dumfries,  i.  308. 

Errol,  parish,  Perth,  i.  403. 

Erskine,  parish,  Renfrew,  i.  405. 

Ervary,  hill,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  133. 

Ervieside  Hill,  Cockburnspath,  i.  206. 

Esby,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  117. 

Esk,  loch,  Cortachy,  i.  218. 

Esk,  river,  Dumfriesshire,  i.  176  ;  Eskdale- 
muir,  406  ;  Westerkirk,  ii.  598,  599. 

Esk,  river,  Edinburghshire,  i.  569. 

Esk,  Black,  river,  Eskdalemuir,  i.  406  ; 
Westerkirk,  ii.  598. 

Esk,  North,  river,  Edzell,  i.  395  ;  Forfar- 
shire, 441  ;  Kincardineshire,  ii.  71  5  Lo- 
gic-Pert, 208. 

Esk,  North,  river,  Edinburghshire,  i.  391 ; 

Lasswade,  ii.  153 ;  Linton,  185. 
Esk,  South,  river,  Dalkeith,  i.  263  ;  Tem- 
ple, ii.  535. 
Esk,  South,  river,  Forfarshire  ;  Cortachy, 
i.  218  ;  Farnell,  417  ;  Kirriemuir,  ii.  131  ; 
Marytown,  236  ;  Oathlaw,  325. 
Esk,   White,   river,   Eskdalemuir,  i.   406 ; 
Westerkirk,  ii.  598. 


INDEX. 


Eskadale,  mansion,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  64. 
Eskadale,  Wester,  hamlet,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  64. 
Eskdale,  Dumfriesshire,  i.  308. 
Eskdalemuir,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  406. 
Eslemont,  estate,  Ellon,  i.  402. 
Espedair,  burn,  Paisley,  ii.  342. 
Esragan,  streams,  Ardehattan,  i.  62. 
Essachossan,  glen,  Inverary,  i.  566. 
Esscumhan,  cascade,  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 
Esse-forse,  cataract,  Kilnmian  and  Kilmore, 

ii.  55. 
Essenside,  loch,  Ashkirk,  i.  72. 
Esset,  burn,  Tullyuessle  and  Forbes,  ii.  564. 
Essie,  Aberdeen.     See  Khynie. 
Essie,  Forfar.     See  Eassie. 
Essil,  ancient  parish,  Speymouth,  ii.  478. 
Essmore,  fall,  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 
Ethie,  burn,  Cromarty,  i.  238. 
Ethie  House,  in  Inverkeillor,  i.  571- 
Ethiebeaton,  Monifieth,  ii.  264. 
Etive,  Loch,  Ardehattan,  i.  61,  69. 
Etive,  river,  Ardehattan,  i.  62. 
Etterick,  North  Bute,  i.  162,  163,  ii.  434. 
Etteick,  parish,  Selkirk,  i.  407. 
Ettrick  Forest,  Selkirkshire,  ii.  460,  617. 
Ettrick-Bridge,  in  Yarrow,  i.  408,  ii.  618. 
Euchan,  stream,  Sanquhar,  ii.  454. 
Eucliar,  estuary,  Kilniniver  aud  Kilmelford, 

ii.  56,  57. 
Evan,  river,  Moffat,  ii.  260. 
Evan-Bridge  Spa,  Moffat,  ii.  26 1 . 
Evanton,   village,  Ross    and  Cromarty,   i. 

408,  ii.  65. 
Evelaw,  in  Westruther,  ii.  602. 
Evelick,  hill,  Kilspindie,  ii.  61. 
Evelix,  stream,  Dornoch,  i.  286. 
Evie  and  Rendall,  parish,  Orkney,  i.  408. 
Ewe,  isle  and  loch,  in  Gairloch,  i.  409. 
Ewe,  river,  Poolewe,  ii.  380. 
Ewes,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  409. 
Ewes,  river,   Langholm,  ii.  146. 
Eye,  district,  island  of  Lewis,  ii.  135. 
Eye,  loch,  in  Fearn,  i.  420. 
Eye,  river,  Berwickshire,  i.  90,  410. 
Eyebrochy,  isle,  Dirleton,  i.  282. 
Eyemouth,  burgh,  Berwick,  i.  409 — i.  90. 
Eynart,  Loch,  in  Strath,  ii.  509. 
Eynort,  Loch,  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 


Fadd,  Loch,  Rothesay,  ii.  434. 

Faich-Hill,  farm,  Gartly,  i.  466. 

Faifley,  village,  Old  Kilpatrick,  i.  411,  ii. 

59,  60. 
Fail,  in  Tarbolton,  Ayr,  ii.  530. 
Failford,  in  Tarbolton,  Ayr,  ii.  530,  531. 
Fair,  isle,  Dunrossness,  i.  411. 
Fairburn  Tower,  Urray,  ii.  586. 
Fairemheall,  mountain,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Fairfield,  seat,  Monkton  and  Prestwick,  ii. 

271. 
Fairgirth,  estate,  Colvend,  i.  215. 
Fair  Hill,  in  Hamilton,  i.  534. 
Fairholme,  house,  Hamilton,  i.  534. 
Fairlie,  district,  in  Largs,  i.  411,  ii.  152. 
Fairlie,  lands,  Dundonald,  i.  320. 
Fairly,  burn,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 
Fairly,  residence,  Newhills,  ii.  310. 
Fairnington,  mansion,  Roxburgh  parish,  ii. 

439. 
Faisbheinn,  mountain,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Faithly,  ancient  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  454. 
615 


Fala  and  Soutra,  parish,  Haddington  and 

Edinburgh,  i.  411. 
Faladam,  Edinburghshire,  i.  142. 
Falbey,  lake,  Parton,  ii.  347. 
Falcon  Hall,  Morningside,  ii.  280. 
Faldonside,  house,  near  Galashiels,  i.  459, 

460. 
Falfearnie,  rivulet,  Cortaehy,  i.  218. 
Falfield,  Kilconquhar,  ii.  29. 
FALKIRK,  burgh,  Stirlingshire;  history, 

i.  412  ;   description  of  the   town,   413  ; 

trade   and   manufactures,    414  ;    parish, 

414  ;  ecclesiastical  affairs,  415. 
Falkland,  parish  and  burgh,  i.  416. 
Falloch,  river,  Killin,  ii.  37. 
Falside,  lands,  Tranent,  ii.  559. 
Falside  Brae,  Inveresk,  ii.  295. 
Fankerton,  village,  Denny,  i.  417 — i-  278. 
Fannich,  mountain,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Fannyside  Muir,  Cumbernauld,  i.  250. 
Fans,  village,  Earlstoun,  i.  417 — i.  352. 
Farat,  isle,  in  Walls,  Orkney,  i.  417. 
Fare  Hill,  Echt,  i.  356  ;  Midmar,  ii.  254. 
Farg,  stream,  Arngask,  i.  70  ;  Dron,  291. 
Farme,  mansion,  Rutherglen,  ii.  442. 
Farnell,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  417— i.  222. 
Farnilee,  estate,  Galashiels,  i.  460. 
Farnua,  ancient  parish,  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 
Farout  Head,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Fan-,  house,  Daviot  and  Dunlichty,  i.  274. 
Farr,  parish,  Sutherland,  i.  417. 
Farragon,  hill,  Dull,  i.  301. 
Farralarie,  lake,  Golspie,  i.  511. 
Farrer,  river,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 
Faskally,  in  Moulin,  ii.  284. 
Farskane's  Cave,  Rathven,  ii.  406. 
Faskine,  village,  Old  Monkland,  i.  419,  ii. 

269. 
Faslane,  castle,  Row  parish,  ii.  437. 
Fasuacloich,  lake,  Ardehattan,  Argyll,  i.  62. 
Fasnacloich,  mansion,  Lismore  and  Appin, 

ii.  190. 
Fasnacoil,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 
Fasque,  mansion,  Fettercaim,  i.  425. 
Fassfern,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 
Fast  Castle,  Coldingham,  i.  209. 
Fatlips  Castle,  Minto,  ii.  259. 
Fatlips  Castle,  Symington,  ii.  526. 
Faungrass,  stream,  Greenlaw,  i.  521. 
Fawside,  cottage,  Kinneff,  ii.  84. 
Fea,  Brae  of,  in  Cross  and  Burness,  i.  240. 
Fearn,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  419. 
Fearn,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  420. 
Feam,  Easter,  burn,  Edderton,  i.  359. 
Fearn,  Mid,  in  Edderton,  i.  420. 
Fearns,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  359. 
Fechley,  in  Towie,  ii.  558. 
Fedderate,  castle,  New  Deer,  i.  275. 
Fedinch,  isle,  Newburgh,  ii.  306. 
Fendoch,  camp,  Monzie,  ii.  276. 
Fenella,  castle,  Fettereairn,  i.  424. 
Fenella,  hill,  in  Fordoun,  i.  436,  437. 
Fens,  farm,  St.  Boswell's,  i.  146. 
Fenton,  village,  Dirleton,  i.  420. 
Fenton,  West,  farm,  Dirleton,  i.  282,  283. 
Fenton  Tower,  North  Berwick,  i.  123. 
Fenwick,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  420. 
Fenzies,  loch,  Lethendy  and  Kinloch,  ii.  1 73. 
Feochan,  loch,  Kilmore  and  Kilbride,  ii.  51. 
Feoline,  in  Jura,  Argyll,  i.  591. 
Ferdun,  burn,  Fordoun,  i.  436. 
Fereneze,  in  Neilston,  ii.  300. 
Fergus,  loch,  Coylton,  i.  221. 


Fergus,  loch,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  100,  102. 
Fergus,  St.,  parish,  Banff,  i.  421. 
Fergushill,  village,  Ayrshire,  i.  422,  ii.  66. 
Ferindonuil,  Kiltearn,  ii.  64. 
Ferintosh,  lands,  Urquhart,  ii.  584. 
Fernie  Castle,  Monimail,  ii.  265. 
Fernie  Easter,  hamlet,  Fife,  i.  422. 
Ferniegair,  hamlet,  Lanark,  i.  422. 
Fernieside,  house,  Liberton,  i.  473. 
Fernihurst,  castle,  Jedburgh,  i.  586. 
Ferntower,  in  Crieff,  i.  236. 
Ferrybank,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
Ferryden,  village,  Forfar,  i.  422 — i.  222. 
Ferryfield,  ferry,  in  Abernethy,  Perth,  i.  29. 
Ferryfield,  works,  Bonhill,  i.  141. 
Ferryhill,  lands,  Aberdeen,  i.  17. 
Ferry  Hills,  Dunfermline,  Fife,  ii.  398. 
Ferryport-on-Craig,  parish,  Fife,  i.  422. 
Ferrytown  of  Cree,  burgh,  Kirkcudbright, 

i.  232. 
Fersness,  bay,  North  Isles,  Orkney,  ii.  373. 
Fersness,  headland,  Eday,  ii.  519. 
Feshie,  stream,  in  Alvie,  Inverness,  i.  42. 
Fetheland,  Northmavine,  Shetland,  ii.  323, 

324. 
Fetheray,  isle,  Dirleton,  i.  282,  283. 
Fetlar  and  North  Yell,  parish,  Shetland, 

i.  423. 
Fetterangus,  village,  Old  Deer,  i.  424. 
Fettercairn,  burgh,  Kincardine,  i.  424. 
Fetteresso,  parish,  Kincardine,  i.  425 — i.  9. 
Fetternear,  old  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  463. 
Feuchan,  loch,  Kilninver  and  Kilmelford,  ii. 

56. 
Feugh,  river,  Banchory-Ternan,  i.  101. 
Fiaray,  isle,  Barra,  Inverness,  i.  427. 
Fiddich,  river,  Boharm,  i.  137,  138  ;  Mort- 

lach,  ii.  280. 
Fidrey,  isle,  Dirleton,  i.  427. 
Fife-Keith,  village,  Banff,  i.  427,  ii-  3. 
Fifeness,  Crail,  i.  225. 
FIFESHIRE,  i.  427. 
Figgate  Whins,  waste,  Portobello,  i.  297,  »• 

386. 
Fillan,  river,  Killin,  ii.  37. 
Fillans,  St.,  village,  Perth,  i.  429. 
Fillan's,  St.,  Chair,  in  Strathfillan,  ii.  514. 
Finavon.     See  Oathlaw. 
Fincastle,  district,  Dull,  i.  301. 
Findhorn,  loch,  Kinloss,  ii.  82. 
Fiudhom,  river,  Ardclach,  i.  63  ;  Dyke  and 

Moy,   346  ;    Ediukillie,   392  ;    Findhorn 

town,  429  ;  Moy  and  Dalrossie,  ii.  286. 
Findhorn,  town,  in  Kinloss,  i.  429. 
Findlater,  Fordyce,  i.  437,  438. 
Findochty,  village,  Banff,  i.  429. 
Findogask,  Perth.     See  Nether  Gash. 
Findon,  estate,  Urquhart,  ii.  584. 
Findon,  village,  Kincardine,  i.  429 — i.  100. 
Findrack,  seat,  Lumphanan,  ii.  219. 
Findrassie,  lands,  New  Spynie,  ii.  481,  482. 
Fine,  Loch,  Argyll,  i.  69,  70. 
Finfan,  in  Urquhart,  ii.  581. 
Fingal,  Cave  of,  Staffa,  ii.  482. 
Fingal's  Stairs,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Fingask  Castle,  Kilspindie,  ii.  61. 
Fingask,  mansion,  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 
Finhaven.     See  Oathlaic. 
Finlarig  Castle,  Killin,  ii.  37. 
Finlas,  Loch,  in  Straiton,  ii.  506. 
Finlass,  river,  Luss,  ii.  222. 
Finlayston,  mansion,  Kilmalcolm,  ii.  39. 
Finnan,  isle,  Ardnamurchan,  i.  65. 


INDEX. 


Finnan,  village,  Kincardine,  i.  429. 
Finnich,  mansion,  Drynieu,  i.  297. 
Fixxiestox,  suburb  of  Glasgow,  i.  430. 
Fixxyfold,  Aberdeen.    See  Whinnie-Fauld. 
Fixtray,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  430. 
Fixtry,  parUh,  Stirling,  i.  430. 
Fintry,  village,  Monifieth,  ii.  264. 
Finzean,  mansion,  Birse,  i.  130. 
Fiona ven,  hill,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
Fir  Hill,  Colinton,  i.  211. 
Firth,  seat,  Lasswade,  ii.  429. 
Firth  and  Stenxess,  parish,  Orkney,  i.  431. 
Fir-tree,  burn,  Urquhart,  ii.  582. 
Fisherrow,  Edinburgh.     See  Narthesk,  and 

Musselburgh. 
Fisherton,  Maybole,  ii.  241. 
Fish  Holm,  isle,  in  Delting,  i.  432. 
Fishinish,  in  Torosay,  ii.  551,  552. 
Fishwiek,  old  parish,  Hutton,  i.  553. 
Fishwives'  Causeway,  Portobello,  ii.  386. 
Fitfill,  hi  Dunrossness,  i.  338. 
Fitrall  Head,  Argyll,  i.  214. 
Fithie,  burn,  in  Tealing,  ii.  533. 
Fithie,  lake,  Forfar,  i.  440. 
Fittick,  St.,  Nigg  parish,  ii.  317- 
Fitty,  hills,  Westray,  ii.  600. 
Fitty,  loch,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 
Five  Kirks  of  Eskdale,  lands,  Dumfries,  i. 

406. 
Flada,  isle,  hi  Kiluiuir,  Inverness,  i.  432,  ii. 

53. 

Flada-Wheix,  isle,  in  Kilmuir,  i.  432. 
Fladda,  isle,  in  Barra,  Inverness,  i.  432. 
Fladda,  isle,  in  Portree,  Isle  of  Skye,  i.  432. 
Fladda  Sound,  Barra,  i.  107. 
Fladdaehuain,  isle,  Kilmuir,  ii.  53. 
Fladday,  isle,  in  Harris,  i.  432. 
Flanders  Moss,  Stirling,  i.  296. 
Flaxxan,  isles,  in  Lewis,  i.  432. 
Flass,  lands,  Westruther,  ii.  602. 
Flatfield,  in  Errol,  i.  404. 
Flatt,  in  Glassford,  i.  500. 
Flawcraig,  hamlet,  Kinnaird,  i.  433. 
Fleet,  loch,  Golspie,  i.  511. 
Fleet,  river,  Rogart,  ii.  423. 
Fleet,  river  and  bay,  Kirkcudbright  ;  An- 
woth,  i.  54  ;  Gatehouse,  470;  Girthon,  473. 
Flemington,  loch,  Pettie,  ii.  371, 372. 
Flemington  House,  Pettie,  ii.  371. 
Flemington-MiU,  stream,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 
Flint  Hill,  Stobo,  ii.  498. 
Flisk,  parish,  Fife,  i.  433. 
Fliskmill,  farm,  in  Fiisk,  i.  433. 
Float,  Bay  of,  Stoneykirk,  ii.  501. 
Flodda,  isle,  in  Barra,  Inverness,  i.  433. 
Flode,  in  Criech,  Sutherland,  i.  234. 
Floors,  hills,  Avondale,  i.  84. 
Floors,  park,  Kelso,  ii.  8. 
Floita,  Orkney.     See  Walls  and  Flotta. 
Flotta-Calf,  isle,  Walls  and  Sandness,  ii.  589. 
Flow,  in  Falaand  Soutra,  i.  412. 
Flowerburn,  mansion,  Rosemarkie,  ii.  426. 
Fludha,  residence,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  102. 
Fochabers,  village,  Elginshire, i. 433 — i.l  16. 
Fodderlee,  in  Hobkirk,  i.  543. 
Fodderty,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty, i.  434. 
Foco,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  435. 
Foile,  rivulet,  Aberfoyle,  Perth,  i.  24. 
Foodie,  hill,  Fifeshire,  i.  260. 
Forbes,  Aberdeen.     See  Tullynessh. 
Ford,  estate,  Crichton,  ii.  347. 
Furdel,  in  Dalgety,  i.  261,  272. 
Fordel,  lands,  in  Arngask,  i.  70. 
616 


Fordel-Square,  village,  in  Dalgety,  i.  436. 

Fordoux,  parish,  Kincardine,  i.  436. 

Fordyce,  parish,  Banff,  i.  437. 

Foreman,  hill,  Forgue,  i.  444. 

Fore  Part,  vale,  Monzie,  ii.  276. 

Forest,  The,  Birse,  i.  130. 

Forest,  The,  Harris,  i.  536. 

Forest-Mill,  in  Alloa,  Clackmannan,  i.  38. 

Forest-of- Lewis,  peninsula,  Lochs  parish,  ii. 

200. 
FORFAR,  burgh,  i.  438. 
FORFARSHIRE,  i.  440. 
Forg ax,  parish,  Fife,  i.  441 . 
Forgaxdexny,  parish,  Kinross  and  Perth, 

i.  442. 
Forglen,  parish,  Banff,  i.  443. 
Forgue,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  444. 
Formal,  Knock  of,  hill,  Lintrathen,  ii.  187. 
Forneth,  seat,  Clunie,  i.  203. 
Fornighty,  in  Ardclach,  Nairn,  i.  63. 
Forres,  burgh,  Elgin,  i.  444,  ii.  82. 
Forsa,  stream,  Torosay,  ii.  551. 
Forse,  Latheron,  ii.  155. 
Forss,  river,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Forss  House,  Thurso,  ii.  539. 
Fort,  rock,  Dysart,  i.  349. 
Fort,  St.,  estate,  Forgan,  i.  441,  442. 
Fort-Augustus,  village,  Inverness,  i.  446. 
Fort-Charlotte,  Lerwick,  ii.  168. 
Fort-George,  Inverness,  i.  174. 
Fort  Hill,  lands,  Dun,  i.  309. 
Fort-William,  village,   Inverness,  i.  446, 

ii.  41. 
Fortar,  castle,  Glenisla,  i.  507. 
Forteviot,  parish,  Perthshire,  i.  446. 
Forth,  river,  Aberfoyle,  i.  24,  25  ;  Clack- 
mannan, 199  ;  Drymen,  296  ;  Perthshire, 

ii.  365  ;  Stirlingshire,  495. 
Forth,  village,  in  Carnwath,  i.  447. 
Forth  and  Clyde  Canal,  i.  488. 
Forthar,  Kettle,  ii.  15. 
Forthy,  river,  Arbuthnott,  i.  59. 
Fortixgal,  parish,  Perth,  i.  447. 
Fortissat,  seat,  Shotts,  i.  119. 
Fortrose,  town,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  450. 
Forvie,  Aberdeenshire.     See  Slains. 
Foss,  district,  in  Dull,  and  in  Fortingal,  i. 

450— i.  301. 
Fossoway,  parish,  Kinross  and  Perth,  i.  450. 
Fothringham,  house,  Inverarity,  i.  565. 
Foudland,  hill,  Insch,  i.  563,  564. 
Foula,  isle,  in  Walls  and  Sandness,  i.  452. 
Foulden,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  452. 
Foulshiels,  near  Yarrowford,  ii.  619. 
Fouxtainhall,  hamlet,  Stow,  i.  452. 
Fountainhall,  lands,  Pencaitland,  ii.  351. 
Four-Towns  of  Lochmaben,  ii.  198,  471. 
Foverax,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  452. 
Fowlis,  Easter,  estate,  Leochel  and  Cushnie, 

ii.  166. 
Fowlis,  Wester,  estate,  Leochel  and  Cushnie, 

ii.  166. 
Fowlsheugh,  in  Dunnottar,  i.  336. 
Fowlshiels,  Selkirk  parish,  ii.  460. 
Foxhall,  estate,  Kirkliston,  ii.  110. 
Foyers,  falls,  Boleskine,  i.  579- 
Fraisgill,  cavern,  in  Durness,  ii.  549. 
Fraoeheilein,  castle,  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 
Fraochy,  Loch,  Dull,  i.  301  ;  Kenmorc,  ii. 

11. 
FRASERBURGH,  town,  Aberdeen,  i.  454. 
Free  Church,  New  College,   Edinburgh,  i. 

382. 


Freefield,  mansion,  Rayne,  ii.  408. 
Freeland,  mansion,  Forgandenny,  i.  443. 
Frenchland  Tower,  Moffat,  ii.  261. 
Frendaught,  mansion,  Forgue,  i.  444. 
Freswick,  township,  in  Canisbay,  i.  455. 
Freuchie,  village,  Falkland,  i.  455. 
Friar's  Brae,  eminence,  Linlithgow,  ii.  1 84. 
Friars'  Carse,  lands,  Dunscore,  i.  33K,  339. 
Friars'  Croft,  Dunbar,  i.  312. 
Friar's  Dubbs,  Bervie,  i.  1 20. 
Friartox,  hamlet,  Perth,  i.  455. 
Friockheim,  village,  Forfar,  i.  455. 
Frisa,  loch,  Isle  of  Mull,  ii.  292. 
Froon,  stream,  Luss,  ii.  222. 
Fruid,  stream,  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  568. 
Fuday,  isle,  Barra,  Inverness,  i.  456. 
Fullarton,  district,  Dundonald,  i.  456,  ii. 

561. 
Fulton,  fort,  Bedrule,  i.  113. 
Fulwood,  in  Houston  and  Killallan,  i.  549. 
Fungarth,  hamlet,  Caputh,  i.  456. 
Funtack,  river,  Moy  and  Dalrossie,  ii.  287. 
Funzie,  bay,  in  Fetlar,  i.  423,  424. 
Futtie,  fishing-village,  near  Aberdeen,  i.  13, 

14. 
Fyntrack,  village,  Monifieth,  ii.  263. 
Fyvie,  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  456 — i.  273. 


G 


G'aasker,  isle,  in  Harris,  Inverness,  i.  457. 

Gadgirth-Holm,  hamlet,  Ayr,  i.  457. 

Gadgirth  House,  Coylton,  i.  221. 

Gady,  stream,  Clatt,  i.  201  ;  Premnay,  ii. 
392. 

Gaick,  forest,  Kingussie,  ii.  81. 

Gair,  Kirkpatrick-Fleming,  ii.  124. 

Gair,  bridge  over  the  Eden,  St.  Andrew's, 
i.  48. 

Gairloch,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i. 
457. 

Gairney,  or  West  Gairney,  stream,  Cleish, 
i.  201. 

Gairney,  East,  rivulet,  Fossoway,  i.  451. 

Gaisxey-Bridge,  hamlet,  Cleish,  i.  458. 

Gairnside,  in  Glengairn,  i.  508. 

Gairsay,  isle,  Evie  and  Rendall,  i.  458. 

Gait,  Loch,  Galston,  i.  460. 

Gala,  river,  Edinburghshire,  &c,  i.  391,  ii. 
503. 

Gala  House,  near  Galashiels,  i.  459. 

Galabank,  in  Annan,  i.  52. 

Galachlaw,  hill,  Liberton,  ii.  178. 

GALASHIELS,  town,  Roxburgh  and  Sel- 
kirk, i.  458. 

Galdry,  village,  in  Balmerino,  i.  460 — i.  98. 

Gallaberry,  station,  Dryfesdale,  i.  295,  296. 

Galla-Know,  Oxnam,  ii.  336. 

Gallan  Head,  Uig,  ii.  573. 

Gallant  Knowe,  Leslie,  ii.  171. 

Gallatown,  village,  in  Dysart,  i.  460. 

Gallery,  house,  Logie-Pert,  ii.  209. 

Gallo,  hills,  Westray,  ii.  600. 

Gallow  Drum,  in  Clunie,  i.  204. 

Gallow-Flat,  in  Errol,  i.  405. 

Gallow-Flat,  tumulus,  Rutherglen,  ii.  443. 

Gallow  Hill,  Banff,  i.  103. 

Gallow  Hill,  Crieff,  i.  234. 

Gallow  Hill,  Douglas,  i.  288. 

Gallow  Hill,  Edzell,  i.  396. 

Gallow  Hill,  in  Grange,  i.  517. 

Gallow  Hill,  in  Insch,  i.  564. 


INDEX. 


Gallon'  Hill,  Leeropt,  ii.  159. 

Gallon-  Hill,  Mnnineth,  ii.  2C4. 

Gallow  Hill,  Rafford,  ii.  400. 

Gallon'  Hill,  eminence,  Ruthven,  ii.  443. 

Galloway,  New,  town,  Kirkcudbright,   i. 

460. 
Galloway  House,  Sortie,  ii.  474. 
Gai.lowlaw,  hamlet,  Forfar,  i.  460. 
Gallows  Hill,  Kirkden,  ii.  105. 
Gallows  Hill,  in  Terregles,  ii.  536. 
Gallows  Knoll,  Clatt,  i.  201. 
Gallows  Know,  Kinross,  ii.  91. 
Galston,  parish,  Ayr,  i.  460. 
Galtrigil  Head,  Duirinish,  i.  300. 
Galtway,  lands,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  100,  102. 
Galval,  castle,  Boharm,  i.  138. 
Gamescleuch,  castle   Ettrick,  i.  408. 
Gameshope,  burn,  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  568. 
Gamhair,  river,  Fortingal,  i.  448. 
Garnhuinn,  loch,  Rothiemurchus,  ii.  436. 
Gamrie,  parish,  Banff,  i.  461. 
Gannachy,  bridge,  Fettercairn,  i.  425. 
Garabo.st,  in    Stornoway  parish,  Lewis,  ii. 

503. 
Garamount  House,  Lady  parish,  Orkney,  ii. 

138. 
Garden,  mansion,.  Kippen,  ii.  95. 
Garden  of  Paradise,  Monymusk,  ii.  275. 
Garden's  Mill,  Rayne,  ii.  408. 
Gardenstown,  village,  Banff,  i.  462. 
Garder  House,  Sandsting  and  Aithsting,  ii. 

451. 
Gardyne  Castle,  Kirkden,  ii.  104. 
Gareloch,  river,  Roseueath,  ii.  427. 
Gareloch-Head,  village,  Row,  i.  462. 
Garfarran,  farm,  Drymen,  i.  297. 
Gargill,  in  Gartsherrie,  i.  489. 
Gargunnock,  parish,  Stirling,  i.  462. 
Garie,  stream,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  131. 
Garioch,  Chapel  of,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  463 

— i.  273. 
Gariochsford,  Premnay,  ii.  392. 
Garion,  bridge,  Dalserf,  i.  270. 
Garleton  Hills,  Haddington,  i.  527. 
Garlies,  castle,  Minnigaff,  ii.  257. 
Garliestown,  village,  Sorbie,  i.  465,  ii.  473. 
Garlogie,  in  Skene  parish,  ii.  466. 
Garmiston,  in  Firth  and  Stenness,  i.  432. 
Garmond,  village,  Monquhitter,   i.  465,  ii. 

272. 
Garmouth,  village,  in  Speymouth,  i.  465. 
Garnet  Hill,  Glasgow,  i.  485. 
Garngaber,  seat,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 
Garnkirk,  Lanarkshire,  i.  489. 
Garnock,  river,  Dairy,  i.  266,  267  ;  Kilbir- 

nie,  ii.  18. 
Garpel,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  202. 
Garpel,  stream,  Muirkirk,  ii.  291. 
Garrallan,  house,  Old  Cumnock,  i.  254. 
Garrarissa,  isle,  Craignish,  i.  224. 
Garrel,  ancient  parish,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  116. 
Garrel,  burn,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  117- 
Garrel,  hill,  Kilsyth,  ii.  62. 
Garrick's  Haven,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  22. 
Garrier,  burn,  Kilmaurs,  ii.  46. 
Garrion  Gill,  Carluke,  i.  180. 
Garroch  Head,  Kingarth,  ii.  73,  74. 
Garrowhill,  mansion,  Crossbill,  i.  241. 
Garry,  Loch,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  132. 
Garry,  river,  Blair-Atholl,   i.  132  ;  Moulin, 

ii.  284. 
Garry,  river,  Auehtergaven,  i.  78. 
Garscadden,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 
Vol.  I.— 617 


Garscube  House,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 

Gart,  in  Callander,  i.  168. 

Gartcloss,  village,  Old  Monkland,  i.  465,  ii. 

269. 
Garteraig,  mansion,   Barony  parish,  Glas- 
gow, ii.  464. 
Gartgill,  in  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 
Garth,  house,  Delting,  i.  277- 
Garthland,   estate,     Loehwinnoeh,   ii.    201, 

202,  203. 
Garthland,  lands,  Stoneykirk,  ii.  501. 
Gartincaber,  mansion,  Kilmadock,  ii.  39. 
Gartly,  parish,  Banff  and  Aberdeen,  i.  465. 
Gartmore,  district,  Perth,  i.  466,  ii.  387- 
Gartmorn  Dam,  reservoir,  in  Alloa,  i.  38. 
Gartness,  in  Drymen,  i.  297. 
Gartness,  village,  Clarkston,  i.  200. 
Gartsherrie,  district,  Lanark,  i.  466,  489, 

ii.  270. 
Gartshore,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  108,  109. 
Gartur,  moss,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  387- 
Garturk,  hi  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 
Gartwhinean,  Easter  and  Wester,  hamlets, 

Fossoway,  i.  467. 
Garvald,  in  Dunsyre,  i.  341. 
Garvald,  ancient   parish,   Kirkmichael,   ii. 

116,  117. 
Garvald,  burn,  Kilmadock,  ii.  38. 
Garvald  and  Bara,  parish,  Haddington,  i. 

467. 
Garvald  Linn,  in  Eskdalemuir,  i.  406. 
Garvaldfoot  moor,  Linton,  ii.  186. 
Garvamore,  Laggan,  ii.  140. 
Garve,  stream,  Urray,  ii.  585. 
Garveld  House,  Dolphinton,  i.  284. 
Garvellan,  isle,  Durness,  i.  343. 
Garvelloch,  islands,  Argyll,  i.  467. 
Garvock,  house,  Dunning,  i.  335. 
Gauvock,  parish,  Kincardine,  i.  467- 
Gascon  Hall,  Trinity-Gask,  i.  469. 
Gask,  in  Turriff,  ii.  567. 
Gask,  Nether,  parish,  Perth,  i.  468. 
Gask,  Trinity,  parish,  Perth,  i.  469. 
Gask  Hill,  Collessie,  i.  212. 
Gasstown,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  469. 
Gatehead,  hamlet,  Kilmaurs,  ii.  46. 
Gatehouse,  residence,  Stanley,  Perth,  ii.  484. 
Gatehouse  of  Fleet,  town,  Kirkcudbright, 

i.  469. 
Gateside,  hamlet,  Kirkgunzeon,  i.  470. 
Gateside,  residence,  Newhills,  ii.  310. 
Gateside,  village,  Beith,  i.  470. 
Gateside,  village,  Neilston,  i.  470,  ii.  301. 
Gattonside,  village,  Melrose,  i.  470. 
Gattonside  Hills,  Melrose,  ii.  245. 
Gaudy,  river,  Auchleven,  i.  76- 
Gavin,  stream,  in  Glengairn,  i.  507- 
Gayinton,  village,  Langton,  i.  470,  ii.  143. 
Gawreer,  burn,  Dreghorn,  i.  291. 
Gaylet  Pot,  cavern,  Auchmithie,  i.  77- 
Geam,  Loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
Geanach,  Mount,  Birse,  i.  130. 
Geanies,  seat,  Tarbat,  ii.  529. 
Gear-Abhain,  river,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Gear-Amhuinn,  stream,  Inverary,  i.  566. 
Geary  Pot,  in  St.  Vigean's,  ii.  587- 
Geddes  House,  Nairn,  ii.  299. 
Geilstone-Bridge,  village,  Cardross,  i.  470 

— i.  178. 
Gelah,  hamlet,  in  Fair,  i.  411. 
Gellan,  hill,  Coull,  i.  219. 
Gelland,  hill,  Carnbee,  i.  183. 
Gellie,  loch,  Fife,  i.  428. 


Gelston,  village,  Kelton,  i.  470,  ii.  10. 

Gelston  Castle,  seat,  Kelton,  ii.  9. 

Gelt,  stream,  Auchinleck,  i.  76. 

Gennerhill,  lands,  Avondale,  i.  84. 

Genoch,  mansion,  Old  Luce,  ii.  218. 

Georgetown,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  471- 

Georgetown,  village,  Rannoch,  ii.  401. 

Gerloch,  harbour,  Lismore  aud  Appin,  ii. 
189. 

Germain's,  St.,  in  Gladsmuir,  i.  476. 

Germain's,  St.,  seat,  Tranent,  ii.  559. 

Germanus,  St.,  lake,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 

Gibbet  Know,  in  Clunie,  i.  204. 

Gibbiestown,  hamlet,  Methven,  i.  471. 

Gibliston,  house,  Carnbee,  i.  183. 

Gibson's  Crag,  Fossoway,  i.  467. 

Gibsontown,  house,  Tundergarth,  ii.  565. 

Giddes  Well,  in  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  568. 

Giffen,  barony,  Beith,  i.  113. 

OiiFFORD,  village,  in  Yester,  i.  471. 

Gifford  Water,  Bolton,  i.  140. 

Giffordgait,  near  Haddington,  i.  529. 

Giffordton,  hamlet,  Collessie,  i.  471. 

Gigha,  isle,  Barra,  Inverness,  i.  472. 

GiGHA  and  Cara,  parish,  Argyll,  i.  471.  ' 

Gight,  burn,  Methlick,  ii.  250. 

Gight,  Bog  of,  Fochabers,  i.  434. 

Gight  Castle,  in  Fyvie,  i.  457- 

Gightyburn,  stream,  Kinnell,  ii.  85. 

Gigulum,  isle,  Gigha  and  Cara,  i.  472. 

Gil,  burn,  Borrowstounness,  i.  144. 

Gilbertfield,  house,  Cambuslang,  i.  170. 

Gilcomston,  district,  Aberdeen,  i.  472. 

Giles,  St.     See  Edinburgh. 

Gilkerscleugh,  in  Crawfordjohn,  i.  231. 

Gillesbie,  in  Hutton  and  Corrie,  i.  554. 

Gillies  Hills,  St.  Ninians,  ii.  319. 

Gilliestongues,  in  Jedburgh,  i.  588. 

Gill-Knoeky,  in  Canobie,  i.  176. 

Gills,  township,  Canisbay,  i.  473. 

Gilmerton,  district,  Liberton,  i.  473,  ii.  178- 

Gilmerton,  seat,  Athelstaneford,  i.  74. 

Gilmerton,  village,  Fowlis  Wester,  i.  473. 

Gilmillscroft,  seat,  Sorn,  ii.  475. 

Gilp,  Loch,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  135,  195. 

Gilston,  New,  village,  Largo,  i.  473. 

Girdleness,  headland,  Nigg,  ii.  318. 

Girgenti,  residence,  Stewarton,  ii.  488. 

Girlsta,  loch,  Tingwall,  ii.  542. 

Girnag,  mountain,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  132. 

Girnigoe,  castle,  Wick,  ii.  609,  610. 

Girthgate,  road,  Melrose,  ii.  244. 

Girth-Head,  Wamphray,  ii.  591 . 

Girtiion,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  473. 

Girvau,  river,  Girvan  parish,  i.  474  ;  Kirk- 
michael, ii.  115  ;  Straiton,  506. 

GIRVAN,  town  and  parish,  Ayrshire,  i. 
474— i.  106. 

Givel,  stream,  Avondale,  i.  84. 

Glack,  hamlet,  Methven,  i.  475. 

Glack,  mansion,  Daviot,  i.  273. 

Glack  of  Newtyle,  Newtyle  parish,  ii.  316. 

Glackharnis,  pass,  Banff,  i.  27. 

Glackindaline,  bay,  Kilninian,  ii.  577- 

Gladefield  House,  Kincardine,  ii.  68. 

Gladehouse,  stream,  Temple,  ii.  535. 

Gladsmuir,  parish,  Haddington,  i.  475. 

Glaidney,   or   Glaidney-Cotton,    Cupar,   i. 

477. 
Glaissean,  Loch,  Kilmichael-Glassary,  ii.  47- 
Glaisters,  farm,  Kirkgunzeon,  ii.  389. 
Glamich,  hill,  Skye,  ii.  467- 
Glammis,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  477- 

4K 


INDEX. 


Glammis  Tower,  Kinghorn,  ii.  75. 
Glasbhein,  mountain,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Glaschoiren  Hill,  Argyll,  i.  65. 
Glasehul,  in  Towie,  ii.  558. 
Glaschine,  castle,  Blairgowrie,  i.  135. 
Glasford,  Lanark.     See  Glassfwd. 
Glasgoego,  mansion,  Kinnellar,  ii.  86. 
GLASGOW,  i.  478  :— 

Early  History,  478. 

Events  of  the  15th  Century,  479. 

Of  the  16th,  479. 

Oi  the  17th,  480. 

And  of  the  18th  and  19th  Centuries, 
481. 

General  Description  of  the  City,  483 

Lighting,  Supply  of  Water,  &c.,  484. 

Libraries,  485. 

Literary  and  Scientific  Institutions,  485. 

Places  of  Amusement,  486. 

Trade  and  Commerce  :  origin  and 
progress  of  the  various  kinds  of 
Manufacture,  486. 

Business  of  the  Port  :  Shipping,  Cus- 
toms, Harbour,  &c,  487. 

Steam  Navigation,  488. 

Forth  and  Clyde,  Monkland,  and  John- 
stone Canals,  488. 

Edinburgh,  Garnkirk,  Ayr,  and  Green- 
ock Railways,  489. 

Public  Buildings  connected  with  Trade  : 
the  Exchange,  489. 

Corn  Exchange  and  other  Markets, 
490. 


Municipal  Affairs,  491. 

Public  Buildings  connected  with  Mu- 
nicipal Affairs,  491. 

Merchants'  House,  Trades'  House,  Pri- 
sons, 492. 

Origin  and  progress  of  the  Univer- 
sity, 492. 

Its  Government  ;  Professors,  Bursa- 
ries, &c,  493. 

Buildings  of  the  University,  494. 

The  Andersonian  Institution,  494. 

Ecclesiastical  Affairs :  Parishes, 
Churches,  &c,  494. 

The  Cathedral,  494. 

Parishes  in  the  City,  495. 

Former  Quoad  Sacra  Parishes,  496. 

Barony  Parish,  496. 

Necropolis,  496. 

Schools  and  Benevolent  Institutions, 
497. 

The  High  School,  497. 

The  Royal  Infirmary,  497- 

Lunatic  Asylum,  Magdalen  Asylum, 
Lock  Hospital,  and  St.  Nicholas' 
Hospital,  497. 

Hutcheson's  Hospital,  498. 

Charitable  Societies  and  Bequests,  498. 

The  Town  Hospital,  498. 
Glasgow  and  Edinburgh  railway,  i.  379. 
Glasnock  House,  Old  Cumnock,  i.  254. 
Glasnock,  river,  Old  Cumnock,  i.  253,  254. 
Glass,  Isle  of.     See  Scalpay,  Inverness. 
Glass,  loch,  Kiltearn,  ii.  64. 
Glass,  parish,  Aberdeen  and  Banff,  i.  499. 
Glass,  river,  Kiltarlity,  ii.63. 
Glassary.     See  Kilmichael-Glassary. 
Glassaugh,  house,  Fordyce,  i.  438. 
618 


Glassel,  Banchory-Ternan,  i.  100,  101. 
Glassert,  river,  Campsie,  i.  198. 
Glassert,  stream,  Dunlop,  i.  332. 
Glasserton,  parish,  Wigton,  i.  499. 
Glassford,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  500. 
Glassletter,  loch,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Glassmile,  mountain,  Glenisla,  i.  506. 
Glassmount,  hill,  Kinghorn,  ii.  76. 
Gleann-chearnach,  old  parish,  i.  344. 
Glemassan,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,i.  337- 
Glemsholm,  isle,  South  Ronaldshay,  i.  501. 
Glen,  hamlet,  Falkirk,  i.  501. 
Glen,  house,  Traquair,  ii.  560. 
Glen,  river,  in  Lewis,  i.  109. 
Glenadle,  vale,  Southend,  ii.  478. 
Glenae,  house,  Tinwald,  ii.  543. 
Glenae,  tower,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  1 17- 
Glenaheurich,  in  Ardnamurchan,  i.  65. 
Glenaladale,  in  Moidart,  Argyll,  i.  65.  _ 
Glenalla,  hill,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  115. 
Glenalmond,  Perth,  i.  235. 
Glen-Almond  Cottage,  Monzie,  ii.  276. 
Glen-App,  Ballantrae,  i.  94. 
Glenarbuek,  seat,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59. 
Glenartney,  valley,  Comrie,  i.  215,  216. 
Glenary.     See  Inverary  and  Glenary. 
Glenavon,  forest,  Banffshire,  i.  105,  ii.  116. 
Glenbarr,  mansion,  Killean  and  Kilchenzie, 

ii.  34. 
Glenbeg,  in  Glenelg,  i.  506. 
Glenbervie,  parish,  Kincardine,  i.  501. 
Glenbran,  district,  Perthshire,  i.  30. 
Glenbrantir,  house,  Strachur,  ii.  505. 
Glenbreckry,  vale,  Southend,  ii.  477- 
Glenbrennan,  hill,  Kirkpatrick-Irongray,  ii. 

124. 
Glenbrierachan,  vale,  Moulin,  ii.  84. 
Glen-Brook,  seat,  Currie,  i.  258. 
Glenbuck,  village,  Ayrshire,  i.  501. 
Glenbdcket,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  501. 
Glenbuckie,  Perthshire,  i.  99. 
Glenburn  Hall,  Jedburgh,  i.  587. 
Glencainail,  in  Torosay,  ii.  551. 
Glencairn,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  502. 
Glen-Cannich,  Kilmorack,  ii.  49. 
Glencaple-Quay,  village,   Caerlaverock,  i. 

502— i.  165. 
Glenearse  House,  Kinfauns,  ii.  73. 

Glen-Chapel,  near  Darvel,  i.  272. 

Glen-Chatt,  valley,  Birse,  i.  130. 

Glencloy,  Kilbride,  ii.  21,  22. 

Glencoe,    district,    Argyllshire,  i.    502,  ii. 
189. 

Glen-Convinth,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 

Glencreran,  in  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189. 

Glencross,    or   Glencorse,   parish,    Edin- 
burgh, i.  504. 

Glen-Darroch,  seat,  Currie,  i.  258. 

Glendaruel,  lands,  Kilmodan,  ii.  48. 

Glendean,  in  Traquair,  ii.  560. 

Glendelvine,  house,  Caputh,  i.  177- 

Glendhu,  loch,  Eddrachillis,  i.  360,  361. 

Glen-Dindal,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 

Glendinning,  lands,  Westerkirk,  ii.  598, 599. 

Glendochart,  vale,  Killin,  ii.  37. 

Glendoick  House,  Kinfauns,  ii.  73. 

Glendorch,  in  Crawfordjohn,  i.  231. 

Glendovan,  or  Glendevon,  parish,  Perth, 
i.  504. 

Glen-Dow,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 

Glen-Dubh,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 

Glendi/ckie,  hamlet,  Fife,  i.  505 — i.  433. 

Glen  Duglass,  Luss,  ii.  222. 


Glen-Dye,  vale,  Strachan,  ii.  504,  505. 
Gleneagles,  in  Blackford,  i.  131. 
Glenearn,  mansion,  Dron,  i.  292. 
Glenelchaig,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Glenelg,  parish,  Inverness,  i.  505. 
Glen-Ennich,  tract,  Rothiemurchus,  ii.  486. 
Glen-Etive,  Ardchattan,  i.  61,  62. 
Glen-Euchar,  Kilninver  and  Kilmelford,  ii. 

56. 
Glen-Esk,  Kincardineshire,  ii.  71. 
Glenesk,  mansion,  Lasswade,  ii.  153. 
Glenfairness,  in  Ardclach,  i.  63. 
Glenfalloch,  vale,  Killin,  ii.  37. 
Glenfarg,  Abernethy,  Perth,  i.  29,  30. 
Glenfarquhar,  Kincardineshire,  i.  436. 
Glen-Farrar,  Kilmorack,  ii.  49. 
Glen-Fiddich,  in  Cabraeh,  i.  163. 
Glenfinart,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  337. 
Glen-Finlass,  Luss,  ii.  222. 
Glenfiunan,  Ardnamurchan,  i.  66. 
Glenfoot,  village,   in  Abernethy,  Perth,  i. 

29. 
Glenforsa,  in  Torosay,  ii.  551,  552. 
Glen-Fortingal,  Perth.     See  Fortingal. 
Glen-Froon,  stream,  Luss,  ii.  222. 
Glenfruin,  strath,  Row  parish,  ii.  437,  438. 
Glengaber,  stream,  Traquair,  ii.  560. 
Glengairn.      See    Glenmuick,    Tullich,    and 

Glengairn. 
Glengarnock,  lands,  Kilbirnie,  ii.  18,  19. 
Glen-Garr,  in  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 
Glengarry,  district,  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  48. 
Glengarry,  property,  Glenelg,  i.  505. 
Glen-Gollie,  Sutherland,  i.  342. 
Glengonar,  Lanarkshire,  i.  230,  231. 
Glenhaltin,  vale,  Skye,  ii.  472. 
Glenhead,  village,  Renfrew,  i.  506. 
Glen  Hill,  Newabbey,  ii.  304. 
Glenhinistil,  vale,  Skye,  ii.  472. 
Glenholm,  Peebles.     See  Broughton. 
Gleniffer  Hills,  Paisley,  ii.  338,  341,  344. 
Glenisla,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  506. 
Glen-Ketlan,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Glenkill,  burn,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  117. 
Glen-Kindy,  house,  Strathdon,  ii.  513. 
Glen-Kinglas,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Glen-Latterach,  burn,  Dallas,  i.  263. 
Glen-Lednock,  valley,  Comrie,  i.  215,  216. 
Glenlee,  mansion,  Kells,  ii.  6. 
Glenlich-hom,  Muthill,  ii.  296. 
Glenlivet,  district,  Inveraven,  i.  567,  568. 
Glenloehar,  in  Balmaghie,  i.  97. 
Glenlochay,  Killin,  ii.  37. 
Glenlogan,  seat,  Sorn,  ii.  475. 
Glenlogy,  stream,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  131. 
Glenloig,  Kilmorie,  ii.  52. 
Glenloig,  stream,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  131. 
Glenlore,  mansion,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  202. 
Glenluce,  Wigton.     See  Luce,  Old. 
Glenlude,  stream,  Traquair,  ii.  560. 
Glenlyon,   district,   Perth,  i.  507 — i-  448, 

449. 
Glenny-Law,  hill,  in  Abernyte,  Perth,  i.  31*. 
Glenmanow,  burn,  Penpont,  ii.  356. 
Glenmarkie,  rivulet,  Glenisla,  i.  500. 
Glenmeuble,  in  Arasaig,  Argyll,  i.  65. 
Glenmill,  in  Campsie,  i.  175. 
Glenmillan,  seat,  Lumphanan,  ii.  219. 
Glenmore,  Inverness-shire,  i.  579. 
Glenmore,  in  Torosay,  ii.  551. 
Glenmore,  bay,  in  Ardnamurchan,  Argyll, 

i.  64. 
Glenmore,  forest,  Abernethy,  i.  28. 


INDEX. 


Glenmore,  seat,  Kilninver  and  Kilmelford, 

ii.  57. 
Glenmore,  stream,  Old  Cumnock,  i.  254. 
Glenmore,  vale,  Auchinleek,  i.  75,  76. 
Glenmore,  valley,  Fortingal,  i.  448. 
Glenmorriston,  Inverness.     See  TJrquhart. 
Glenmuick,  Tullich,  and  Glengairn,  pa- 
rish, Aberdeen,  i.  507. 
Glen-Noe,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Glenogle,  in  Tannadice,  ii.  529. 
Glenorchard,  mansion,  Baldernock,  i.  92. 
Glenorchy,  district,  Leith,  ii.  164. 
Glenorchy  and  Inishaii.,  parish,  Argyll,  i. 

508— i.  61,  70. 
Glen-Ormiston,  house,  Innerleithen,  i.  562. 
Glenprosen,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  132. 
Glenquaich,  district,  Weem,  ii.  595. 
Glenquhargan,  Craig  of,  Penpont,  ii.  356. 
Gienquiech,  house,  Tannadice,  ii.  528. 
Glen-Rannoch.     See  Rannoch. 
Glenrinnes,  in  Aberlour,  Banff,  i.  27,  28. 
Glen-Rosa,  Kilbride,  ii.  21. 
Glenroy,  in  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  48,  49. 
Glen-Salloch,  Ardchattan,  i.  61,  62. 
Glensanda,  castle,  Lismore  and   Appin,  ii. 

190. 
Glen-Sannox,  Kilbride,  ii.  21. 
Glen-Sassun,  in  Fortingal,  i.  447. 
Glen-Shee,  Auchtergaven,  i.  78,  79. 
Glenshee,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  117. 
Glenshellis,  mansion,  Strachur,  ii.  505. 
Glenshiel,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i. 

509. 
Glenshira,  in  Inverary,  i.  566. 
Glenshirra,  Laggan,  ii.  140. 
Glenside,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  115. 
Glenspean,  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  48. 
Glentanner,  Aberdeen.     See  Aboyne. 
Glenterra,  in  Inch,  i.  556. 
Glentirran,  Kippen,  ii.  94. 
Glentruim  House,  Laggan,  ii.  140. 
Glen- Turret,  cliffs,  Monivaird  and  Strowan, 

ii.  266. 
Glentyan  House,  Kilbarchan,  ii.  17- 
Glen-Uigg,  Skye,  ii.  472. 
Glen-Ure,  Ardchattan,  i.  61  ;  House,  62. 
Glenure  House,  Strathfillan,  ii.  514. 
Glen-Urquhart,  Inverness-shire,  ii.  582. 
Glespin,  in  Crawfordjohn,  i.  231. 
Glesterlaw,  Kinnell,  ii.  85. 
Gling-Glang,  cavern,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Glomach,  waterfall,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Glorat  House,  in  Campsie,  i.  175. 
Gloup,  in  North  Yell,  i.  423,  424. 
Glow,  Loch,  Cleish,  i.  201. 
Glunamore,  islet,  Southend,  Argyll,  ii.  476. 
Gluss,  isle,  Shetland,  ii.  323. 
Goales  Den,  Kilmany,  ii.  41. 
Goat-Fell,  Arran,  i.  163. 
Goat-linn,  in  Eskdalemuir,  i.  406. 
Goats-Milk  Hill,  Kinglassie,  ii.  78. 
Gogar,  hamlet,  Edinburgh,  i.  510 — i.  217, 

218. 
Gogar,  moor,  Ratho,  ii.  404. 
Gogo,  river,  Largs,  ii.  151. 
Goil,  loch  and  river,  Lochgoilhead,  i.  69, 

ii.  195. 
Goldberrie  Head,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 
Goldielands,  in  Hawick,  i.  539. 
Golfdrum,  Dunfermline,  i.  325. 
Gollachie,  in  Enzie,  i.  403. 
Gollanfield,  mansion,  Pettie,  ii.  371. 
Golspie,  parish,  Sutherland,  i.  51 1. 
619 


Golyn,  Haddingtonshire,  i.  282,  283,  526. 
Gometray,  isle,  Kilninian,  i.  512,  ii.  55. 
Goner,  stream,  Tyrie,  ii.  57 1. 
Gonociian,  hamlet,  Fintry,  i.  512. 
Goodhope,  Johnstone,  i.  590. 
Goodie,  river,  Kincardine  in  Monteith,  ii. 

69. 
Gorbals,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  512. 
Gordon,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  512. 
Gordon  Castle,  near  Fochabers,  i.  434 — i.  116. 
Gordon-Mills,  hamlet,  Kirkmichael  and  Cul- 

licudden,  ii.  119. 
Gordon,  West,  village,  in  Gordon,  i.  513. 
Gordonsburgh,  Inverness.  See  Fort- William. 
Gordonstown,  village,  Auchterless,  i.  513 — 

i.  80. 
Gordonstown,  mansion,  Drainie,  i.  290. 
Gore,  stream,  Borthwick,  i.  145. 
Gorebridge,  village,  Temple,  i.  513. 
Gorget  Tree,  in   Applegarth,  Dumfries,  i. 

56. 
Gormac,  burn,  Drumoak,  i.  294. 
Gormloch,  in  Sutherlandshire,  ii.  522. 
Gortan,  house,  Inverchaolain,  i.  569. 
Gorthleck,  in  Stratherrick,  i.  273. 
Gortleg,  mansion,  Dores,  i.  285. 
Gorton,  mansion,  Lasswade,  ii.  153. 
Gosford,  seat,  in  Aberlady,  Haddington,  i. 

26. 
Goul,  loch,  New  Machai',  ii.  225. 
Gounies,  headland,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Gour,  loch,  Criech,  i.  234. 
Gourdie,  Hill  of,  Clunie,  i.  203. 
Gourdoun,  village,  Bervie,  i.  513— i.  117, 

120,  121. 
Gourock,  burn,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 
Gourock,  district,  Renfrew,  i.  513. 
Govan-hill,  in  Craig,  i.  222. 
Govan,  Little,  in  Gorbals,  i.  512,  515. 
Govan,  parish,  Lanark,  i.  514 — i.  487. 
Gowan-Bank,   hamlet,   Forfar,   i.  516,    ii. 

587. 
Gowkhall,  village,  Fife,  i.  516. 
Gowkshill,  village,  Edinburgh,  i.  516. 
Gowling  Hills,  Stirling,  ii.  491. 
Gowrie,  district,  Perth,  ii.  364,  366. 
Gozlington,  in  Stonehouse  parish,  ii.  500. 
Gradenburn,  Coldstream,  i.  209. 
Graeme's  Hall,  Holm  and  Paplay,  i.  545. 
Gr^emsay,  isle,  Hoy,  i.  516,  550. 
Graham's  Dyke,  Falkirk,  i.  412  ;  Polmont, 

ii.  378. 
Grahame's  Knowe,  Newtyle,  ii.  317. 
Grahamston,  Glasgow,  i.  430. 
Grahamston,  village,  Falkirk,  i.  516 — i.  412, 

414. 
Grahamstown,  village,  Neilston,  i.  516. 
Graigengower,  hill,  Straiton,  ii.  506. 
Graitney,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  516. 
Grampians,  hills,  Kincardineshire,  ii.  71 . 
Grandholm,  near  Aberdeen,  ii.  617. 
Grandtully,  district,  Dull,  i.  301,  302. 
Grange,  burn,  Grangemouth,  i.  518. 
Grange,  estate,  Tundergarth,  ii.  565. 
Grange,  hamlet,  St.  Andrew's,  Fife,  i.  518. 
Grange,  hamlet,  Errol,  i.  518. 
Grange,  in  Burntisland,  i.  161. 
Grange,  mansion,  Carriden,  i.  519. 
Grange,  parish,  Banff,  i.  517. 
Grange,  seat,  Monifieth,  ii.  263. 
Grange  of  Conan,  near  Arbroath,  ii.  586. 
Grange-Fell,  in  Tundergarth,  ii.  565. 
Grangehall,  seat,  Kinloss,  ii.  82,  83. 


Grangehill,  mansion,  Kinghorn,  ii.  77. 
Grangemouth,  sea-port,  Stirling,  i.  518. 
Grangemuir,  seat,  Anstmther  Wester,  Fife, 

i.  53. 
Grangepans,  village,  Linlithgow,  i.  519— i. 

186. 
Grannoch,  Loch,  Balmaghie,  i.  97. 
Granton,  near  Edinburgh,  i.  520 — i.  379, 

ii.  163. 
Granton,  mansion,  Moffat,  ii.  261. 
Grantown,  town,  Cromdale,  i.  520. 
GRASSH0USES0fTH0RNT0N,hamlet,G)ammis, 

i.  520. 
Gray  House,  Liff  and  Beuvie,  ii.  179. 
Graystone,  hamlet,  Carmylie,  i.  520. 
Greanoch,  loch,  Girthon,  i.  473. 
Great-Cave,  in  Gigha  and  Cara,  i.  471. 
Great  Cumbray.  See  Cumbray,  Great.  And 
all  places  hating  a  similar  distinguishing  pre- 
fix will  be  found  under  the  proper  name. 
Greatlaws,  in  Skirling  parish,  ii.  467. 
Greatmoor,  mountain,  Castleton,  i.  190. 
Greenan,  castle,  Maybole,  ii.  241. 
Greenback,  house,  Fetlar  and  North  Yell, 

i.  424. 
Greenburn,  in  Newhills,  ii.  310. 
Greencairn,  old  seat,  Fettereairn,  i.  425. 
Green  Castle,  in  Garvald  and  Bara,  i.  467. 
Greencraig,  hill,  Creich,  i.  233. 
Greendykes,  in  Gladsmuir,  i.  476. 
Greenend,  village,  Old  Monkland,  i.  520. 
Greengairs,  village,  New  Monkland,  i.  520. 
Greenhall,  Blantyre,  i.  136. 
Green  Hill,  Deskford,  i.  279. 
Greenhill,  hamlet,  Lochmaben,  i.  521. 
Greenhill,  hill,  Strathdon,  ii.  512. 
Greenhill,  in  Hounani,  i.  548. 
Green-hill  of  Burnside,  Rescobie,  ii.  417. 
Greenhill,  seat,  Morningside,  ii.  280. 
Green  Holm,  isle,  Northmavine,  i.  520. 
Green  Holm,  isle,  Tingwall,  i.  520. 
Green  Holm,  Little  and   Muckle,  isles, 

Eday,  i.  520. 
Green  Knowe,  in  Culter,  i.  248. 
Greenlaw,  burgh,  Berwick,  i.  521— i.  126. 
Greenlaw,  house,  Glencross,  i.  504. 
Greenlaw,  seat,  Crossmichael,  i.  242. 
Greenloaning,  village,  Perth,  i.  522. 
Greenoch,  stream,  Muirkirk,  ii.  291. 
GREENOCK,  sea-port,  Renfrew;  history,  i. 
522  ;  description  of  the  town,  522  ;  trade 
and  manufactures,  523;  municipal  affairs, 
524  ;  parish,  524  ;  ecclesiastical   affairs, 
525. 
Greenside,  in  Bothwell,  i.  545. 
Greenside,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  386. 
Greenwell,  in  Unst,  Shetland,  ii.  580. 
Greenyard,  river,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Greenyards,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320. 
Greetness,  in  Dunrossness,  i.  338. 
Greeto  Water,  Largs,  ii.  151. 
Gregness,  headland,  Nigg,  ii.  317. 
Greinord,  isle,  Lochbroom,  i.  526. 
Gremista,  villa,  Lerwick,  ii.  168. 
Grennan,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Grennan  Hill,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  113. 
Gress,  district,  in  Stornoway  parish,  Lewis, 

ii.  503. 
Gress,  river,  Stornoway,  Lewis,  ii.  502. 
Gretna-Green,  in  Graitney,  i.  517. 
Grey- Friars,  Old  and  New,  parishes.     See 

Edinburgh. 
Grey  Friars,  parish.     See  Aberdeen. 
4K2 


INDEX. 


Grey-head,  Canisbay,  i.  175. 
Grey  Mare's  Tail,  cataract,  ii.  261. 
Grey  Mare's  Tail,  fall,  Closeburn,  i.  202. 
Greystonlees,  quarry,  Berwickshire,  i.  91. 
Gribun,  district,  Isle  of  Mull,  ii.  292,  293. 
Griceness,  headland,  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 
Grieshernish,  Loch,  Duirinish,  i.  299,  300. 
Grimbister,  Holm  of,  in  Firth,  i.  545. 
Grimsay,  isle,  North  Uist,  i.  526. 
Grimshadir,  loch,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 
Grimsta,  rivulet,  Uig,  ii.  573. 
Groat,  isle,  Harris,  i.  526. 
Grog,  loch,  Cadder,  i.  164. 
Grougar,  barony,  Kilmarnock,  ii.  43. 
Grove,  seat,  Kirkpatriek-lrongray,  ii.  125. 
Grovemount,  house,  Hamilton,  i.  534. 
Gruagach,  castle,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i.  285. 
Grucula,  in  Shapinshay,  Orkney,  ii.  461. 
Grudy,  river,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Grugaig,  burn,  Edderton,  i.  359. 
Gruinard,  isle,  Lochbroom,  i.  526. 
Gruinard,  loch,  Kilchoman,  ii.  26. 
Grunay,  isle,  Skerries,  Shetland,  ii.  466. 
Grating,  harbour,  Sandsting  and  Aithsting, 

ii.  450. 
Grating  Voe,  in  Fetlar,  i.  423. 
Gryfe,  river,  Houston,  i.  549  ;  Inchinnan, 

558. 
Gryfe-Grove,  in  Houston,  i.  549. 
Guallan,  hill,  Drymen,  i.  296. 
Guard,  bridge  over  the  Eden,  St.  Andrew's, 

i.  48. 
Guidie,  stream,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  387. 
Guildie,  village,  Monikie,  i.  526. 
Guildiemuir,  village,  Monikie,  i.  526. 
Guildtown,  village,  St.  Martin,  i.  526,  ii. 

234. 
Guisachan,  mansion,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  64. 
Gulane,  village,  Haddington,  i.  526— i.  282. 
Gulberwick,  ancient  parish,  Tingwall,  il.  541. 
Gumscleugh,  hill,  Traquair,  ii.  560. 
Gunister,  isle,  Northmavine,  i.  526,  ii.  323. 
Gunna,  isle,  Tirce,  i.  526. 
Gunnie,  in  Old  Monkiand,  ii.  269. 
Gunsgreen,  Ayton,  i.  90. 
Gushet,  lands,  near  Glasgow,  i.  44, 
Guthrie,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  526. 
Guynd,  house,  Carmylie,  i.  183. 
Gwendall,  barony,  Wandell,  ii.  592. 
Gylen  Castle,  Kilmore  and  Kilbride,  ii.  51. 
Gynag,  river,  Kingussie,  ii.  81. 
Gyran,  hill,  Sandwick,  ii.  451. 


H 

Haaf-Grunie,  isle,  Unst,  ii.  579. 
Haa-ton  House,  Lumphanan,  ii.  220. 
Habchester,  camp,  Ayton,  i.  91. 
Ha'  burn,  in  Deskford,  Banff,  i.  280. 
HackWood,  bum,  Wandell,  ii.  592. 
Haddenrig,  height,  Sprouston,  ii.  480,  481. 
Hadden-Stank,  Sprouston,  ii.  481. 
HADDINGTON,  burgh,  i.  527. 
HADDINGTONSHIRE,  i.  529. 
Haddo,  house,  Forgue,  i.  444. 
Haddo,  seat,  Crimond,  i.  237. 
Haddo  House,  Methlick,  ii.  250. 
Haer  Cairns,  Letliendyand  Kiuloch,  ii.  173. 
Haer  Faads,  Inverarity,  i.  565. 
Hafton  House,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  337. 
Hagenhope,  stream,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 
HaOOS,  district,  in  Denny,  i.  530. 
620 


Haggs,  lauds,  Govan,  i.  514,  516. 
Hailes,  Edinburgh,  i.  210. 
Hailes,  Prestonkirk,  ii.  393. 
Hailes,  New,  house,  in  Inveresk,  i.  570. 
Hailes-Quarry,  village,  Colinton,  i.  530. 
Haining,  castle,  Muiravonside,  ii.  289. 
Haining,  near  Yarrowford,  ii.  619. 
Hairlaw,  reservoir,  Neilstou,  ii.  300. 
Hairnish-An-Tuim,  cave,  Knockando,  ii.  136. 
Halbeath,  village,  Dunfermline,  i.  530. 
Halbury,  castle,  Kildonan,  ii.  30. 
Halfdavoch,  in  Edinkillie,  i.  393. 
Halfmorton,   parish,  Dumfries,  i.  530,  ii. 

146. 
Halkerton,  lands,  Laurencekirk,  ii.  158. 
Halket,  loch,  Dunlop,  i.  332. 
Halkirk,  parish,  Caithness,  i.  530. 
Halladale,  river,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Hallbar,  in  Carluke,  i.  181. 
Hall-dykes,  in  Dryfesdale,  i.  296. 
Halleaths,  Lochmaben,  ii.  198. 
Hall- Forest  Castle,  Kintore,  ii.  92. 
Hallgreen,  castle,  Bervie,  i.  120. 
Hall-Guards,  in  Hoddam,  i.  544. 
Hallhead,  estate,  Leochel  and  Cushnie,  ii. 

166,  167. 
Hall  Hill,  in  Collessie,  i.  213. 
Hall  Hill,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  201. 
Hallliill  House,  in  Glassford,  i.  500. 
Hallidown  Hill,  Berwick-on- Tweed,  i.  124, 

125. 
Hall  Meadow,  Annan,  i.  51. 
Hallmyre  Bog,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 
Hallyards,  in  Auchtertool,  i.  81. 
Hallyards,  lands,  Kirkliston,  ii.  1 10. 
Hallyards,  mansion,  Manor  parish,  ii.  230. 
Hallyburton  House,  Kettins,  ii.  14. 
Hallydean,  lordship,  Kelso,  ii.  8. 
Halsery,  in  Watten,  ii.  595. 
Halterburn,  farm,  Yetholm,  ii.  622. 
Halvera,  isle,  Shetland,  i.  531 — i.  153, 162. 
Halvera,  Little,  isle,  Shetland,  i.  532. 
Haly  Hill,  in  Forteviot,  i.  447- 
Haly  Ness,  Dunrossness,  Shetland,  ii.  452. 
Ham,  haven,  Dunnet,  i.  333. 
Ham,  in  Foula,  Shetland,  i.  452. 
Hamer,  old  parish,  Haddington,  ii.  604. 
HAMILTON,  burgh,  Lanark,  i.  532. 
Hamilton-Farme,  Rutherglen,  ii.  442,  443. 
Hamilton  Hill,  Glasgow,  i.  488. 
Hammer,  residence,  Shetland,  ii.  463. 
Hamna  Voe,  Northmavine,  ii.  323,  324. 
Handa,  isle,  Eddrachillis  parish,  i.  535— i. 

360,  361. 
Hauderick,  promontory,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Handexwood,  estate,  West  Calder,  i.  167- 
Hangcliff,  headland,  Ness  isle,  Shetland,  ii. 

302. 
Hanged  Men's  Trees,  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 
Hang-hill,  Carluke,  i.  181. 
Hanging  Bridge,  Penpont,  ii.  355. 
Hangingshaw  Law,  Yarrow,  ii.  618. 
Hanginshaw,  village,  Cathcart,  i.  535. 
Hanna  Voe,  Papa-Stour,  Shetland,  ii.  346. 
Hapland,  burn,  Durisdeer,  i.  342. 
Harbour  Craig,  Carlops,  i.  180. 
Harburn,  estate,  Calder,  i.  167. 
Harcarse,  in  Fogo,  Berwick,  i.  436. 
Hardacres,  eminence,  Eccles,  i.  355,  356. 
Harden,  mansion,  Rohcrton,  ii.  422. 
Hardgate,  hamlet,  Urr,  i.  536. 
Hakdgate,  village,  Old  Kilpatrick,  i.  535, 
ii.  59. 


Hardies  Mill,  Stitchell  and  Hume,  ii.  498. 
Hardington  House,  Wiston,  ii.  616. 
Hare-Cairn,  tumulus,  Monikie,  ii.  265. 
Harelaw  Moor,  Westruthers,  ii.  601. 
Harelaw  Tower,  Canobie,  i.  176. 
Harestanes,  Old,  Kirkurd,  ii.  128. 
Harits  Dyke,  in  Westruther,  ii.  602. 
Harker  Rocks,  Ayton,  i.  90. 
Harlamuir,   Linton,  ii.  186. 
Harlaw,  in  Chapel  of  Garioch,  i.  463. 
Harold's  Tower,  Thurso,  ii.  539. 
Haroldswick,  bay,  Unst,  ii.  578. 
Harpercroft,  farm,  Dundonald,  i.  321. 
Harray,  Orkney.     See  Birsay  and  tlarrcuj. 
Harris,  parish,  in  Lewis,  i.  536. 
Harrow,  loch,  Kells,  ii.  6. 
Hartfell,  in  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  568. 
Hartfell  Spa,  Moffat,  ii.  261. 
Harthill,  castle,  Oyne,  ii.  337- 
Harthill,  village,  Shotts,  i.  536 — i.  119. 
Hartside,  barouy,  Wandell,  ii.  592,  593. 
Hart's  Leap,  Yarrow,  ii.  617- 
Hartwood,  house,  West  Calder,  i.  167. 
Harvieston  House,  Borthwick,  i.  145. 
Harviestoun,  house,  Tillicoultry,  ii.  541. 
Hascussay,  isle,  Shetland,  i.  536. 
Hassendean,  hamlet,  Minto,  i.  537,  ii-  258, 

259. 
Hassington,  village,  in  Eccles,  i.  355. 
Hassock,  lands,  Minnigaff,  ii.  257. 
Hatton,  estate,  Ratho,  ii,  403,  404. 
Hatton,  farm-house,  Marykirk,  ii.  235. 
Hatton,  hill,  Newtyle,  ii.  316  ;   castle,  317. 
Hatton,  Kinnell,  ii.  85. 
Hatton  Castle,  in  Turriff,  ii.  567. 
Haugh,  village,  Mauchline,  i.  537- 
Haugh,  village,  Urr,  i.  537. 
Haughead,  mansion,  Eckford,  i.  358. 
Haugh-Head,  village,  Campsie,  i.  537- 
Haugh-Mill,  village,  Markinch,  i.  537- 
Haughs,  farm,  Inveraven,  i.  568. 
Haughs  of  Nether  Beuholme,  i.  117. 
Haughton,  seat,  in  Alford,  Aberdeen,  i.  36. 
Haven,  East,  village,  Panbride,  i.  537,  ii- 

345. 
Haven,  West,  village,  Panbride,  i.  537,  ii- 

345. 
Havera,  Shetland,     See  Halvera. 
Hawick,  town,  Roxburgh,  i.  537. 
Hawkeshead,  Paisley,  ii.  342,  344. 
Hawkhall,  in  Forgue,  i.  444. 
Hawkhill,  mansion,  Rosemarkie,  ii.  420. 
Hawkhill,  villa,  Largs,  ii.  152. 
Hawkshaw,  lands,  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  568. 
Hawkshill,  Luuan,  ii.  220. 
Hawkstone,  hamlet,  St.  Madoes,  i.  539,  ii. 

227. 
Hawkwood,  hill,  Avondale,  i.  84. 
Hawthornden,  seat,  Lasswade,  ii.  153,  154. 
Haxalgate,  road,  Melrose,  ii.  247. 
Haylie,  Largs,  ii.  152. 
Hayocks,  mansion,  Stevenston,  ii.  487- 
Haystone,  burn,  Peebles,  ii.  349. 
Hazelbank,  village,  Lesmahago,  i.  539. 
Hazelden,  Mearns,  ii.  242. 
Hazelhead,  mansion,  Newhills,  ii.  310. 
Hazlehead,  in  Beith,  i.  115. 
Hazlelaw,  in  Muiravonside,  ii.  290. 
Hazzledeu,  in  Cameron,  i.  172. 
Heacla,  mountain,  South  Uist,  ii.  575. 
Headlecross,  in  Cambusnethan,  i.  171. 
Headshaw,  loeb,  Ashkirk,  i.  72. 
Headswood  Cottage,  in  Denny,  i.  279. 


INDEX. 


Heathcote,  mansion,  Maryculter,  ii.  234. 
Heather  Cow,  cairn,  Bower,  i.  150. 
Heatherwic,  old  parish,  Dunbar,  i,  312. 
Heathery  Hall,  Govan,  i.  515. 
Heathryhaugh,  seat,  Moffat,  ii.  261. 
Heaven-Aqua,  spring,  Linton,  ii.  185. 
Hebrides,  islands,  i.  539. 
Heck,  hamlet,  Loehmabeu,  i.  540. 
Hecla,  mountain,  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 
Hedderwick,  lands,  Montrose,  ii.  274. 
Heinish,  bay,  Tiree,  ii.  544. 
Heisker,  isle,  North  Uist,  i.  540. 
Helensburgh,  town,  in  Row  and  Cardross, 

i.  540. 
Helesay,  isle,  Barra,  i.  540. 
Hell-lum,  excavation,  Slaius  and  Forvie,  ii. 

468. 
Hellmoor,  lake,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 
Hell's  Cleueh,  hill,  Kirkurd,  ii.  127. 
Helmsdale,  village,  Loth,  i.  540 — i.  280,  ii. 

30,  216. 
Helshetter,  in  Reay  parish,  ii.  410. 
Helvels,  Greater  and  Less,  Duirinish,  i.  299. 
Hempriggs  House,  Wick,  ii.  611. 
Hempriggs,  Loch,  in  Wick,  ii.  610. 
Henderland,  in  Lyne  and  Megget,  ii.  224. 
Henderson.  Kilmarnock,  ii.  43. 
Hendersyde,  mansion,  Ednam,  i.  394. 
Henwood,  stronghold,  Oxnam,  ii.  336. 
Heogaland,  holm,  Unst,  ii.  579. 
Herbertshire,  village,  Dunipace,  i.  541 — 

i.  278,  327. 
Herdmanston,  lands,  Salton,  ii.  448,  449. 
Heriot,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  541. 
Herlaw,  cairn,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 
Hermand,  house,  West  Calder,  i.  167- 
Hermanness,  headland,  Unst,  ii.  578. 
Hermiston,  village,  Currie,  i.  542. 
Hermitage,  Castleton,  i.  190,  191. 
Hermitage,  cascade,  Kenmore,  ii.  12. 
Hermitage,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 
Hermitray,  isle,  Harris,  i.  542. 
Herriotfield,  hamlet,  Monzie,  i.  542. 
Herriotfield,  village,  Moneydie,  ii.  263. 
Herriot's  Dyke,  Greenlaw,  i.  521. 
Heryeth,  ancient  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  541. 
Heston,  isle,  Rerrick,  i.  542,  ii.  416. 
Heughead,  in  Coldingham,  i.  209. 
Heugh-Head,  in  Strathdon,  ii.  513. 
Heugh  Well,  Blairgowrie,  i.  135. 
Hieton,  village,  Roxburgh,  i.  542. 
Higgin's  Neuck,  ferry,  Airth,  Stirling,  i.  35. 
High-Bridge,  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  48. 
Ilighchesters,  farm,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 
Highfield  House,  Urray,  ii.  586. 
Hightae,  village,  Lochmaben,  i.  542,  ii.  198, 

199. 
High- Work,  mines,  Leadhills,  ii.  159. 
Hildasay,  isle,  Tingwall,  i.  542. 
Hilderston,  hills,  Torphichen,  ii.  553. 
Hill-Cairnie,  mansion,  Kilmany,  ii.  41. 
Hillend,  village,  Fife,  i.  542. 
Hillhead,  in  Carluke,  i.  180. 
Hillhead,  hamlet,  Cockpen,  i.  542. 
Hillhead,  village,  Leswalt,  ii.  172. 
Hill  House,  Kirkmabreck,  ii.  111. 
Hillhouse,   hill,    Wandell    and   Lamming- 

toune,  ii.  592. 
Hillhouse,  mansion,  Dundonald,  i.  320. 
Hillhouse,  seat,  Kirknewton  and  East  Cal- 
der, ii.  120. 
Hillhousefield,  barony,  Leith,  ii.  1 64. 
Hillowton,  seat,  Crossmichael,  i.  242. 
621 


Hills,  The,  castle,  Lochrutton,  ii.  199. 
Hillside,  lands,  Edinburgh,  i.  373. 
Hillside,  mansion,  in  Aberdour,  Fife,  i.  24. 
Hillswick,  Northmavine,  i.  542,  ii.  323. 
Hillyland,  village,  Tibbermore,  i.  542. 
Hilton,  Berwick.     See  Whitsome. 
Hilton,  estate,  Fodderty,  i.  435. 
Hilton,  hamlet,  Inverness,  i.  542. 
Hilton,  house,  Aberdeen,  ii.  617- 
Hilton,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
Hiltown,  village,  Fearn,  i.  542 — i.  420. 
Hirsel,  barony,  Coldstream,  i.  209,  210. 
Hirst,  hill,  Shotts,  i.  119. 
I    Hirst,  in  Cumbernauld,  i.  250. 
Hirta,  isle.     See  Kllda,  St. 
Hislop,  near  Hawick,  i.  539. 
Hoan,  isle,  Durness,  i.  343. 
Hoardwell,  estate,  Bunlde,  i.  159. 
Hobbie  Ker's  Cave,  in  Eckford,  i.  358. 
Hobkirk,  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  542. 
Hoddam,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  543— i.  252. 
Hog's  Hole,  in  Arbuthnott,  i.  60. 
Holburn,  district,  Aberdeen,  i.  544. 
Holburn  Head,  Thurso,  ii.  538,  539. 
Holehouse,  hill,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  1 17- 
Holekettle-Bridge,  village,  Kettle,  i.  544. 
Hollands  Bay,  Stronsay  and  Eday,  ii.  519. 
Hollee, village,  Kirkpatrick-Fleming,  i.  544. 
Holloch,  stream,  Muiravonside,  ii.  290. 
Hollows  bridge,  Canobie,  i.  176,  177- 
Hollybush,  seat,  Dalrymple,  i.  269. 
Ilollylee,  in  Innerleithen,  i.  562. 
Holm,  haven,  Dunnet,  i.  333. 
Holm,  in  Westray,  Orkney,  i.  545. 
Holm,  mansion,  Croy  and  Dalcross,  i.  243. 
Holm,  plain,  Dairy,  i.  267. 
Holm,  residence,  Balmaclellan,  i.  96. 
Holm  and  Paplay,  parish,  Orkney,  i.  544. 
Holm  of  Grimbister,  in  Firth,  i.  545. 
Holm  of  Houton,  in  Orphir,  i.  545,  ii.  333. 
Holm  of  Midgarth,  in  Stronsay,  i.  545. 
Holm  of  Pharay,  in  Eday,  i.  545. 
Holm  of  Puip,  in  Stronsay,  i.  545. 
Holm  Point,  headland,  Lewis,  ii.  502. 
Holm-Head,  Kirkpatrick-Fleming,  ii.  123. 
Holm  Sound,  Burray,  i.  162. 
Holmains,  castle,  Dalton,  i.  271. 
Holms,  isles,  Unst,  Shetland,].  545. 
Holms,  mansion,  Galston,  i.  461. 
Holms  Water,  in  Glenholm,  i.  155. 
Holton-Square,  village,  Alloa,  i.  545. 
Holy  Isle,  Arran.     See  Lamlasli. 
Holy  Islands,  in  Jura  and  Colonsay,  i.  467. 
Holy  Isles,  Lewis,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 

461. 
Holy  Linn,  cascade,  Balmaclellan,  i.  96. 
Holy  Loch,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  336,  337. 
Holy  Pool,  Strathfillan,  ii.  514. 
Holy  Trinity,  Aberdeen,  late  quoad  sacra 

parish,  i.  17- 
Holy  Wells,  springs,  Neilston,  ii.  301. 
Holydean,  in  Bowden,  i.  149,  150. 
Holyrood  House,  Edinburgh,  i.  374. 
Holytown,  village,  Bothwell,  i.  545. 
Holywood,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  546. 
Home,  castle,  Stitchell  and  Hume,  ii.  497- 
Homer,  burn,  Penpont,  ii.  356. 
Hook,  mansion,  in  Applegarth,  Dumfries,  i. 

55. 
Hope,  Loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
Hope,  river,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Hopekirk,  Roxburgh.     See  Hobkirk, 
Hopeman,  village,  Duffus,  i.  547- 


Hopes,  house,  Garvald  and  Bara,  i.  467- 
Hopesrigg,  mansion,  Westerkirk,  ii.  599. 
Hope-Temple,  gardens,  Paisley,  ii.  339. 
Hopetoun  House,  seat,  in  Abereora,  Lin- 
lithgow, i.  4,  371. 
Horda,  isle,  Burray,  i.  547. 
Horisdale,  isle,  Gairloch,  i.  547. 
Horn,  lake,  Golspie,  i.  511. 
Horndean,  village,  Ladykirk,  i.  547,  ii.  138. 
Horse  Isle,  Ardrossan,  Ayr,  i.  68. 
Horse  of  Copinshay,  in  Orkney,  i.  217. 
Horse-Shoe  Bay,  Kerera  isle,  ii.  14. 
Hoscoat,  mansion,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 
Hoselaw,  lake,  Linton,  ii.  186,  187. 
Hospital-Mill,  hamlet,  Cults,  i.  547 — i.  249. 
Houff,  stronghold,  Lumphauan,  ii.  220. 
Hounam,  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  547. 
Houndwood,  district,  Coldingham,  i.  548 — 

i.  209. 
Hounslow,  in  Westruther,  ii.  602. 
Hourn,  Loch,  in  Glenelg,  i.  505. 
Housay,  isle,  Skerries,  Shetland,  ii.  466. 
House,  isle,  Bressay,  i.  153,  162. 
House  of  Muir,  in  Glencross,  i.  504. 
Housebay,  in  Stronsay,  ii.  520. 
Househill,  residence,  Nairn,  ii.  299. 
Househill,  seat,  Paisley,  ii.  342. 
House-Hill,  seat,  Inchinnau,  i.  558. 
Houston,  estate,  Uphall,  ii.  580. 
Houston  and  Killallan,  parish,   Renfrew, 

i.  549— i.  525. 
Houston  House,  Linlithgowshire,  ii.  185. 
Houton,  bay,  Orphir,  Orkney,  ii.  333. 
Houton  Head,  promontory,  Orphir,  Orkney, 

ii.  333. 
Houton,  Holm  of,  in  Orphir,  i.  545. 
Hova,  headland,  Ness  isle,  Shetland,  ii.  302. 
How  of  Alford,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  35. 
Howa  Sound,  Eagleshay,  Orkney,  i.  35 1 . 
Howdean,  in  Jedburgh,  i.  588. 
Howe  of  the  Mearns,  Kincardineshire,  ii.  7 1. 
Howgate,  hamlet,  Penicuick,  i.  550,  ii.  354. 
Howie,  Den  of,  near  Fetterangus,  i.  276. 
Howieshill,  hamlet,  Cambuslang,  i.  550. 
Howlet,  burn,  Loudoun,  ii.  216. 
Howliston  Tower,  Stow,  ii.  504. 
Howquoy,  headland,  Holm  and  Paplay,  i. 

544. 
Howwood,  village,  Lochwinuoch,  i.  550,  ii. 

202. 
Hoy,  isle,  Orkney,  i.  550. 
Hoy  and  Gr^msay,  parish,  Orkney,  i.  550. 
Hoymouth,  Orkney,  ii.  455. 
Huip,  isle,  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 
Huipness,  headland,  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 
Hullerhirst,  seat,  Stevenston,  ii.  487. 
Hulmitray',  isle,  Harris,  i.  550. 
Humbie,  estate,  Kirkliston,  ii.  110. 
Humbie,     Haddington.       See     Keith   and 

Humbie. 
Humbie,  Queensferry,  ii.  396. 
Humble-Bumble,  in  Forteviot,  i.  447. 
Hume,  Roxburgh.     See  Stitchell  and  Hume. 
Huna,  isle,  in  Unst,  ii.  579. 
Huna,  township,  Canisbay,  i.  551. 
Hunda,  island,  South  Ronaldshay,  i.  551. 
Hunie,  isle,  Unst,  i.  551. 
Huntalee,  Jedburgh,  i.  587,  588. 
Hunterfield,  village,  Cockpen,  i.  551. 
Hunter's  Bay,  Sorbie,  ii.  473. 
Hunter's  Bog,  Edinburgh,  i.  372. 
Hunterston,  residence,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24, 

25. 


INDEX. 


Iluutfield,  lands,  Libberton,  ii.  177. 
Hunthiix,  hamlet,  Blantyre,  i.  551. 
Hunthill,  house,  Jedburgh,  i.  587. 
Huntington,  house,  Haddington,  i.  528. 
Huntingtower,  barony,  Redgorton,  ii.  410  ; 

Castle,  539. 
Huntingtower-Field,  in  Tibbermore,  ii.  540. 
HUNTLY,  town,  Aberdeen,  i.  551. 
lluntly-Wood,  in  Gordon,  i.  512. 
Hurlet,  village,  Paisley,  i.  552,  ii.  342. 
Hurley-Hawkin,  castle,   Liff  and  Benvie,  ii. 

180. 
Hurlford,  village,  Ricearton,  i.  552. 
Hutchesonton,  district,  Glasgow,  i.  552 — i. 

498. 
Hutton,  parish,  Berwick,  i.  553. 
Hutton  and  Corrie,  parish,  Dunifries,i.  554. 
Hutton,  Little,  old  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  29b'. 
Hynd  Castle,  Monikie,  ii.  265. 
Hyndford,  Pettinain,  ii.  373. 


I 


lasgair,  isle,  Kilmuir,  ii.  53. 

Ibris,  isle,  Dirleton,  i.  555 — i.  282. 

Ibrox,  near  Glasgow,  i.  489. 

Icolmkill,  Argyll.     See  Iona. 

Idoch,  Water  of,  Monquhitter,  ii.  271. 

Idrigil,  cliffs,  Duirinish,  i.  300. 

Idvie,  Kirkden,  ii.  104,  105. 

Illary,  isle,  North  Uist,  i.  555. 

Il-Liston,  mansion,  Kirkliston,  ii.  111. 

Inalterie,  farm,  Deskford,  i.  280. 

Inch,  island,  Forfar,  i.  439. 

Inch,  parish,  Wigton,  i.  555,  ii.  387. 

Inch  House,  Liberton,  ii.  177,  178. 

Inch,  North,  Perth,  ii.  360. 

Inch,  South,  Perth,  ii.  359,  360. 

Inchard,  loch,  Eddrachillis,  i.  360. 

Inchbare,  house,  Strickathrow,  ii.  517. 

Inchberry,  district,  Rothes,  ii.  432. 

Inchbervis,  tower,  Auchtergaven,  i.  79. 

Inchbrakie,  in  Crieff,  i.  236. 

Inchbrayock,  Forfar,  i.  222,  ii.  273,  431. 

Inch-Cailloch,  isle,  Buchanan,  i.  557,  »• 

222. 
I.NCHCOL5I,  isle,  Aberdour,  i.  557 — i-  23. 
Inch-Conagan,  isle,  Luss,  i.  557- 
Inch-Cruin,  isle,  Buchanan,  i.  557. 
Inchdairnie,  mansion,  Kinglassie,  ii.  77- 
Inchdrewer,  castle,  Banff,  i.  104. 
Inch-Effray,  Madderty,  ii.  226. 
Inches,  island,  Aberdeen  harbour,  i.  13,  14. 
Inches,  The,  Inverness,  i.  577. 
Inch-Fad,  isle,  Buchanan,  i.  557. 
Inchgarvie,  isle,  Inverkeithing,  i.  557,  ii. 

398. 
Inchinna.n,  parish,  Renfrew,  i.  557. 
Inchira,  mansion,  Kinnoull,  ii.  88. 
Inchkeith,  island,  Kinghorn,  i.  559,  ii.  163. 
Inch-Kenneth,  isle,  Kilfinichen,  i.  559. 
1  nch-Lonaig,  isle,  Luss,  i.  559. 
Inchmahome,  lake,  Port  of  Monteith,ii.  386, 

387. 
Inchmarlo,    mansion,  Banchory-Ternan,  i. 

101. 
Inch-Marnock,  island,  Rothesay,  i.  559 — i. 

162,  163. 
Inchmartin,  in  Errol,  i.  404. 
Inch-Mickery,  isle,  Cramond,  i.   559— i. 

227. 
Inch-Moan,  isle,  Luss,  i.  559. 
Inch-Murin,  isle,  Buchanan,  i.  559 — i.  157. 
622 


Inehnadaff,  in  Assynt,  i.  73. 

Inch-Riach,  mountain,  Rothiemurchus,  ii. 
436. 

Inchrye  House,  seat,  in  Abdie,  Fife,  i.  3. 

Inch-Tavanach,  isle,  Luss,  i.  559. 

Inchture  and  Rossie,  parish,  Perth,  i.  559. 

Inchtuthil,  Perthshire,  i.  177,  178. 

Inchyra  Hill,  St.  Madoes,  ii.  227. 

Indal,  loch,  Kilchoman,  ii.  26. 

Inganess,  St.  Andrew's,  Orkney,  i.  49,  50. 

Ingans,  hills,  Cleish,  i.  201. 

Ingleston,  camp,  Ruthven,  ii.  444. 

Inglismaldie,  mansion,  Marykirk,  ii.  235. 

Inishail,  Argyll.     See  Glenorehy. 

Inish-Chonnel,  isle,  Kilchrenan  and   Dala- 
vich,  ii.  27. 

Inish-Druinish,  Argyll,  i.  581. 

Inishdrynich  House,  Glenorehy,  i.  509. 

Inish-Errich,   isle,   Kilchrenan    and  Dala- 
vich,  ii.  27- 

Ink-Craig,  stream,  Carnock,  i.  184. 
Inmerdownie,  hill,  Fossoway,  i.  451. 
Innergelly,  house,  Kilrenny,  ii.  60. 
Innerkip,  parish,  Renfrew,  i.  561 — i.  524. 
Innerleithen,  parish,  Peebles  and  Selkirk, 

i.  561. 
Innermessan,  farm,  Inch,  i.  555. 
Innerpeffray,  Muthill,  ii.  297. 
Innerquhomry,  mansion,  Longside,  ii.  213. 
Innersand,   in  Sandsting  and  Aithsting,  ii. 

451. 
Innerwell,  bay,  Sorbie,  ii.  473. 
Innerwick,  hamlet,  Glenlyon,  i.  507. 
Innerwick,  parish,  Haddington,  i.  562. 
Innes  House,  Urquhart,  ii.  581. 
Inniskenneth.     See  Inch-Kenneth  and  Kilfi- 
nichen. 
Innocents'  Howe,  Urquhart,  ii.  581. 
Inord,  Loch,  Portree,  ii.  389. 
Insch,  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  563. 
Insh,  district,  Inverness,  i.  564. 
Inshewan,  house,  Tannadice,  ii.  528. 
Inshoch,  Auldcairn,  i.  82,  83. 
Inver,  loch,  Assynt,  ii.  196. 
Inver,  village,  Tain,  i.  564. 
Inver,  village,  Little   Dunkeld,  i.  564 — i. 

331. 
Inverallan,  old  parish,  Inverness,  i.  520. 
Inverallochy,   village,  Rathen,  i.  564,  ii. 

402,  403. 
Inverarity,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  565. 
INVERARY,  burgh,  Argyll,  i.  565. 
Inveraven,  parish,  Elgin  and  Banff,  i.  567. 
Inverawe,  in  Ardchattan,  Argyll,  i.  61,  62. 
In  vera  we,  New,  mansion,  Glenorehy,  i.  509 . 
Inveraylort,  in  Ardnamurchan,  i.  66. 
Inverbervie,  Haddington.    See  Bervie. 
Inverbervie,  tower,  Auchtergaven,  i.  79. 
Inverboindie.     See  Boindie. 
Inverbrothock,  district,  Arbroath,  i.  568. 
Invercannieh,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 
Invercauld,  estate,  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Inverchadain,  in  Fortingal,  i.  449. 
Inverchaolain,  parish,  Argyll,  i.  558. 
Invereharron,  Kincardine,  ii.  68. 
Inverchasly,  farm,  Criech,  i.  234. 
Invercoe,  in  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189. 
Invercruden,  Aberdeenshire.     See  Cruden. 
Inverculan,  old  parish,  Banff,  i.  244. 
Inverdruie,  Rothiemurchus,  ii.  436. 
Inverebrie,  Methlick,  ii.  249. 
Inverernan,  seat,  Strathdon,  ii.  513. 
Invererne,  house,  Forres,  i.  445. 


Invereshie,  house,  Insh,  i.  564. 
Lnveresk,  parish,  Edinburgh,  i.  569. 
Invergarry,  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  49. 
Inverghiusachaw,  in  Ardchattan,  Argyll,  i. 

62. 
Invergordon,  village,  in  Rosskeen,  i.  570,  ii. 

431. 
Invergowrie,  village,  Liff,  i.  571,  ii.   178, 

179,  180. 
Inverie,  house,  Glenelg,  i.  505. 
Inverinate,  bay,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Inverkeillor,  parish,  Forfar,  i.  571. 
INVERKEITHING,  burgh,  Fife,  i.  572. 
Inverkeithny,  parish,  Banff,  i.  574. 
Inverleithen.     See  Innerleithen. 
Inverleven,  Fife.     See  Dubbieside. 
Inverliver,  Ardchattan,  Argyll,  i.  62. 
Inverlochy,  castle,  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  48. 
Inverlussay,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  133. 
Invermark,  mansion,  Lochlee,  ii.  197. 
Invermay  House,  Forteviot,  i.  447. 
Invermorriston,  village,  Urquhart,  i.  574, 

ii.  583. 
Inverneill,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134,  135. 
INVERNESS,  burgh,  Inverness-shire;  his- 
tory, i.  574;  description  of  the  town,  575; 
trade  and  manufactures,  575  ;  municipal 
affairs,  576;  parish,  576;  ecclesiastical  af- 
fairs, schools,  &c,  577;  antiquities,  578. 
INVERNESS-SHIRE,  i.  578. 
Invernettie,  burn,  Burnhaven,  i.  160. 
Invernettie  Point,  Peterhead,  ii.  370. 
Invernochtie,  Aberdeen.     See  Strathdon. 
Inverquharity,  braes,  Kirriemuir,  ii.   131, 

132. 
Inverquiech,  near  Alyth,  i.  43. 
Invertiel,  district,  Fife,  i.  580,  ii.  77. 
Inverugie,  castle,  St.  Fergus,  i.  422. 
Inveruglass,  river,  Arrochar,  i.  71. 
INVERURY,  burgh,  Aberdeen,  i.  580— i. 

14. 
Inverwick,  in  Glenlyon,  Perth,  i.  449. 
Invery,  seat,  Strachan,  ii.  505. 
Inweary,  rivulet,  in  Abercrombie,  Fife,  i.  5. 
Inzievar,  house,  Torryburn,  ii.  554. 
Iona,  island,  Kilfinichen,  Argyll,  i.  581. 
Iorsa,  loch,  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 
Ire,  Holmes  of,  Cross  and  Burness,  i.  240. 
Irishlaw,  hill,  Largs,  ii.  151. 
Irneside,  in  Newburgh,  ii.  306. 
Irongath  hills,  Carriden,  i.  186. 
Irongray,  Kirkcudbright.     See  Kirkpatrick- 

Irongray. 
Ironottcr  Point,  Gourock,  i.  513. 
IRVINE,  burgh,  Ayr,  i.  583— i.  456. 
Irvine,  river,  Loudoun,  ii.  216. 
Irvine  House,  Langholm,  ii.  147. 
Isauld  House,  Reay  parish,  ii.  409. 
Isla,  river,  Botriphnie,  i.  148;  Grange,  517, 

518;  Keith,  ii.  3,4. 
Isla,  river,  Airlie,   i.   33  ;    Glenisla,   506  ; 
Meigle,  ii.  242;  Perthshire,  365;  Ruthven, 
443. 
Islay,  island,  Argyll,  i.  584. 
Isle  of  Whithorn.     See  Whithorn,  Isle  of. 
Issay,  island,  Duirinish,  i.  585. 
Ituna,  river,  Logie-Buchan,  ii.  206. 


Jackston,  hill,  St.  Cyrus,  i.  258. 
Jackton,  hamlet,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  23. 
James  Roy's  Cairn,  hill,  Knockando,  ii.  136. 


INDEX. 


Jamestown,  village,  Bonhill,  i.  585. 
Jamestown,  village,  Contin,  i.  585. 
Jamestown,  village,  Westerkirk,  ii.  598. 
Janefield,  residence,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  102. 
Janetown,  village,  Lochcarron,  i.  585,  ii. 

193. 
Janet's  Brae,  eminence,  Peebles,  ii.  349. 
Jardine  Hall,  seat,  in  Applegarth,  Dumfries, 

i.  55. 
Jed,  river,  Jedburgh,  i.  585. 
JEDBURGH,  burgh,  Roxburgh,  i.  585. 
Jemimaville,  village,   Kirkmichael,  i.  588, 

ii.  119. 
Jerviston,  house,  Both  well,  i.  148. 
Jerviswood,  lands,  Lanark,  ii.  143. 
Jock's  Burn,  in  Carluke,  ii.  622. 
Jock's-Lodge,  village,  South  Leith,  i.  589, 

ii.  164. 
John's,  St.,  headland,  Canisbay,  i.  175. 
John's,  St.,  Chair,  Dairy,  i.  198. 
John's,  St.,  Hill,  Kinneff,  ii.  84. 
John's,  St.,  Well,  in  Deskford,  i.  280. 
John's,  St.,  Well,  Spott  parish,  ii.  479. 
John-Knox,   Aberdeen,   late    quoad   sacra 

parish,  i.  17. 
John  Knox's  Kirk,  Gladsmuir,  ii.  477. 
John  Legg's  Well,  in  Fordyce,  i.  438. 
John  O'Groat's  House,  Canisbay,  i.  176. 
Johnshaven,  village,  Benholme,  i.  589— i. 

120. 
Johnston,  lands,  Laurencekirk,  ii.  157,  158- 
Johnston,  loch,  Cadder,  i.  164. 
Johnstonburn,  house,   Keith  and   Humbie, 

ii.  4. 
Johnstone,  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  589. 
JOHNSTONE, town,  Paisley,  i.  590,  ii.  340. 
Johnstone  Canal,  ii.  340. 
Johnstone  Castle,  Paisley,  ii.  342. 
Joppa,  village,  Coylton,  i.  591. 
Joppa,  village,  Duddingston,  i.  591. 
Jordan  Hill,  Renfrew  parish,  ii.  413,  414. 
Jordanstone,  house,  Alyth,  i.  43. 
Jordieland,  farm,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  102. 
Juniper-Green,  village,  Colinton,  i.  591. 
Jur.A  and  Colonsat,  parish,  Argyll,  i.  591. 

K 

Kailzie,  ancient  parish,  Traquair,  ii.  559, 

560. 
Kaim,  village,  Duffus,  i.  299. 
Kaimes,  in  Greenlaw,  i.  521. 
Kaimes'  Hill,  Ratho,  ii.  404. 
Kair,  mansion,  in  Arhuthnott,  i.  60. 
Kale,  river,  Eckford,  i.  357,  358  ;  Hounam, 

547  ;  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  279. 
Kalemouth,  in  Eckford,  i.  358. 
Kam,  rivulet,  Kemback,  ii.  10. 
Kame  Hill,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 
Karnes,  barony,  Cumbray,  i.  .250. 
Karnes,  house,  Eccles,  i.  355. 
Kames  Bay,  Bute,  i.  162,  163. 
Kames  Castle,  Rothesay,  ii.  434. 
Kames  Hill,  Rothesay,  ii.  434. 
Katrine,  loch,  Perthshire,  ii.  366. 
Keallin,  harbour,  North  Uist,  ii.  574. 
Keanlochbervie,  district,  Sutherland,  ii.  1. 
Kean's  Cottage,  Rothesay,  ii.  434. 
Kearn.     See  Auchindoir. 
Keavil,  house,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 
Kebat,  glen,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  116. 
Kebbaty,  mansion,  Midmar,  ii.  254. 
623 


Keen,  Mount,  Lochlee,  ii.  ]  96. 

Keig,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  1,  556. 

Keig,  Old,  farm,  Keig,  ii.  2. 

Keil,  estate,  Southend,  ii.  477,  478. 

Keilcolm-Keil,  mansion,  Southend,  ii.  477- 

Keill,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  188. 

Keillor,  rivulet,  Inverkeillor,  i.  571. 

Keills,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  133,  134. 

Keilour,  stream,  Collessie,  i.  212. 

Keil's  Glen,  Largo,  ii.  150. 

Keir,  in  Straiton,  ii.  507. 

Keir,  hill,  Dolphinton,  i.  284,  285. 

Keir,  lands,  Lecropt,  ii.  159,  160. 

Keir,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  2. 

Keirfield,  Lecropt,  ii.  160. 

Keirhead,  house,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  441. 

Keir  Hill,  Gargunnock,  i.  463. 

Keir  House,  near  Bridge  of  Allan,  i.  36. 

Keiss,  district,  Caithness,  ii.  2. 

Keith,  cascade,  Rattray,  ii.  406. 

Keith,  parish,  Elgin  and  Banff,  ii.  3. 

Keith  and  Humbie,  parish,  Haddington, 
ii.  4. 

Keith-Hall  and  Kinkell,  parish,  Aber- 
deen, ii.  5. 

Keithick,  lauds,  Cupar- Angus,  i.  256,  257. 

Keith-Inch,  Peterhead,  ii.  368. 

Keithing,  streamlet,  Inverkeithing,  i.  572. 

Keithny,  bum,  Inverkeithny,  i.  574. 

Keithtown,  village,  Fodderty,  ii.  5. 

Kelburn,  in  Largs,  i.  411. 

Kelburn  Castle,  Largs,  ii.  152. 

Kelhead,  in  Cummertrees,  i.  252. 

Kellas,  hamlet,  Murroes,  ii.  5. 

Kelles,  Easter,  lands,  Dallas,  i.  263. 

Kellie  Castle,  Carnbee,  i.  183. 

Kellie  Law,  in  Carnbee,  i.  183. 

Kelloe,  house,  in  Edrom,  i.  395. 

Kells,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  5 — i.  188. 

Kelly,  barony,  Methven,  ii.  251. 

Kelly,  burn,  Methhck,  h.  250. 

Kelly,  castle,  Arbirlot,  Forfar,  i.  56. 

Kelly,  mansion,  Innerkip,  i.  561. 

Kellyheads,  hills,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 

Kelly  Law,  Fife,  i.  428. 

Kellywood,  lands,  Tulliallan,  ii.  562. 

KELSO,  burgh,  Roxburgh,  ii.  6. 

Kelso,  New,  Lochcarron,  ii.  1 94. 

Kel  Stane,  in  Colinton,  i.  210. 

Keltie,  river,  Callander,  i.  168. 

Keltnie,  falls,  Dull,  i.  301,  302. 

Kelton,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  9. 

Keltox,  village,  Caerlaverock,  ii.  10. 

Kelty,  river,  Kilmadock,  ii.  38. 

Kelty,  village,  Beath,  ii.  10. 

Kelty,  village,  Cleish,  ii.  10. 

Kelty  Water,  Cleish,  ii.  234. 

Kelvin,  river,  Kilpatrick,  New,  ii.  58  ; 
Kirkintilloch,  108. 

Kem,  rivulet,  Kemback,  ii.  10. 

Kemback,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  10. 

Kemnay,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  11. 

Kempe  Knowe,  mound,  Renfrew,  ii.  414. 

Kempoch  Point,  Gouroek,  i.  513. 

Kemps  Castle,  Ochiltree,  ii.  327. 

Kempston,  in  Urquhart,  ii.  581. 

Kempstone  Hill,  in  Fetteresso,  i.  427. 

Ken,  loch,  Kells,  ii.  6. 

Ken,  river,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  96,  ii.  103. 

Kendrochad.     See  Bridgend. 

Kenly,  burn,  Dunino,  i.  326. 

Kenmore,  headland,  Inverary,  i.  566. 

Kenmore,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  11. 


Kenmundy,  estate,  Old  Deer,  i.  276. 

Kenmure  Castle,  seat,  Kells,  ii.  6. 

Kennet,  village,  Clackmannan,  ii.  13. 

Kennethmont.     See  Kinnethmont. 

Kennetpans,  Clackmannan,  i.  199. 

Kennetside  Head,  Eccles,  i.  355. 

Kennoway,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  13. 

Kennox,  mansion,  Stewarton,  ii.  488. 

Kenrive,  in  Kilmuir  Easter,  ii.  54. 

Kentailen,  bay,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  1 89. 

Kenture,  bay,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 

Kenuachdrach,  in  Jura,  i.  591. 

Keose,  farm,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 

Kepp,  village,  Kippen,  ii.  14. 

Keppelhills,  Newhills  parish,  ii.  310. 

Keppoch,  in  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  48. 

Keppoch,  house,  Cardross,  i.  178. 

Keppock-Hill,  village,  near  Glasgow,  ii. 
14— i.  137. 

Kerbit,  rivulet,  Kinnettles,  ii.  87- 

Kerco,  Kinclaven,  ii.  72. 

Kerera,  island,  Argyll,  ii.  14,  51. 

Kerfield,  residence,  Peebles,  ii.  349. 

Kerilaw,  seat,  Stevenston,  ii.  487- 

Kerloak,  hill,  Banchory-Ternan,  i.  100, 101. 

Kerrycroy,  village,  Kingarth,  ii.  14. 

Kerse,  loch,  Dalrymple,  i.  268. 

Kerse  House,  Falkirk,  i.  415. 

Kershope,  stream,  Castleton,  i.  190. 

Kersie,  ferry,  Airth,  Stirling,  i.  35. 

Kersiebank,  seat,  Polmont,  ii.  379. 

Kessaig,  St.,  Hill  of,  Callander,  i.  168.| 

Kessock,  Wester,  Knockbain,  ii.  137. 

Kettins,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  14. 

Kettle,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  15. 

Kettletoft,  bay,  Sanda,  Orkney,  ii.  449. 

Kidlaw,  in  Yester,  ii.  620. 

Kiel,  river,  Largo,  ii.  150. 

Kier,  Dumfries.     See  Keir. 

Kilarrow  and  Kilmeny,  parish,  Argyll,  ii. 
16. 

Kilbag-head,  headland,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  20(1. 

Kilbagie,  Clackmannan,'  i.  199. 

Kilbarchan,  parish,  Renfrew,  ii.  16. 

Kilbartha,  ancient  parish,  Tome,  ii.  557- 

Kilberry,  Argyll.     See  Kilcalmonell. 

Kilbirnie,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  17. 

Kilblaan,  ancient  parish,  Southend,  ii.  476. 

Kilbrachmont,  hill,  Kilconquhar,  ii.  28. 

Kilbrandon  and  KilchattaN;  parish,  Ar- 
gyll, «•  19- 

Kilbride,  Argyll.     See  KUmore. 

Kilbride,  in  Inverary,  i.  567. 

Kilbride,  in  Kilmichael-Glassary,  ii.  47- 

Kilbride,  iu  Strath,  ii.  510. 

Kilbride,  bay,  Kilfinan,  ii.  31. 

Kilbride,  parish,  county  of  Bute,  ii.  20. 

Kilbride,  old  parish,  Lewis,  i.  536. 

Kilbride,  East,  parish,  Lanark,  ii.  22. 

Kilbride,  West,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  24. 

Kilbryde  Castle,  Dunblane,  i.  314. 

Kilbucho,  Peebles.     See  Broughton. 

Kilcadzow,  village,  Carluke,  ii.  25 — i.  ISO. 

Kilcalmkill,  house,  in  Clyne,  i.  204. 

Kilcalmonell  and  Kilberry,  parish,  Ar- 
gyll, ii.  25. 

Kilchattan,  Argyll.    See  Kilbrandon. 

Kilchattan-Bay,  village,  Kingarth,  ii.  26. 

Kilchenzie,  Argyll.     See  Killean. 

Kilchiaran,  Kilchoman,  ii.  26. 

Kilchoan,  in  Ardnamurchan,  Argyll,  i.  64, 
66. 

Kilchoman,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  26. 


INDEX. 


Kilchonsland,  old  parish,  Argyll,  i.  173. 
Kilchrenan  and  Dalavich,  parish,  Argyll, 

ii.  27. 
Kilchrist,  ancient  parish,  Urray,  ii.  585. 
Kileolmkill,  ancient  church,  Argyll,  i.  62. 
Kileolmkill,   ancient   parish,   Southend,   ii. 

476. 
Kilcolumkill,   ancient  parish,   Morvern,  ii. 

283. 
Kilconquhar,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  28. 
Kilcormack,  old  parish,  Kelton,  i.  471. 
Kilcoy,  Killieman,  ii.  36. 
Kilcraigie,  ferry,  Roseneath,  ii.  428. 
Kilda,  St.,  island,  Inverness,  ii.  29. 
Kildalton,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  29. 
Kildonan,  parish,  Sutherland,  ii.  30. 
Kiklonan,  in  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 
Kildoanan,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  1 13. 
Kildroehat,  residence,  Stoneykirk,  ii.  501. 
Kildrummy,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  31. 
Kilfinan,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  31. 
Kilfinichen  and  Kilviceuen,  parish,  Ar- 
gyll, ii.  32. 
Kilgour,  old  parish,  Fife,  i.  416, 
Kilgraston,  in  Dunbarny,  i.  312,  313. 
Kilhenzie,  castle,  Maybole,  ii.  241. 
Kiliter,  hill,  Cardross,  i.  178. 
Kilkerran,  lands,  Dailly,  i.  259,  260. 
Kilkivan,  old  parish,  Argyll,  i.  1 73. 
Kill,  river,  Stair,  ii.  483. 
Killarrow,  Argyll.     See  EilarroK. 
Killbar,  Barra,  i.  108. 
Killchiaran,  harbour,  Lismore  and  Appin, 

ii.  189. 
Killean,  in  Clyne,  i.  204. 
Killean,  in  Torosay,  Argyll,  ii.  552. 
Killean  and  Kilchenzie,  parish,  Argyll,  ii. 

33. 
Killearn,  parish,  Stirling,  ii.  34. 
Killellan.     See  Houston  and Killallan. 
Killermont  House,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 
Killevin,  in  Kilmichael-Glassary,  ii,  47. 
Killiecrankie,  pass,  Moulin,  ii.  284. 
Killiemore,  in  Penninghame,  ii.  354,  355. 
Killiernan,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 

35. 
Killigray,  island,  Inverness,  ii.  36— i.  118. 
Killin,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  37. 
Killiness  Point,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  113. 
Killintringan  Bay,  Portpatrick,  ii.  388. 
Killisport,  loch,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 
Kill-ma-Lemnock,  ancient  baronv,   Elgin,  i. 

50. 
Killochen,  lands,  Dailly,  i.  260. 
Killochyktt,  hamlet,  Stow,  ii.  38. 
Killoe,  stream,  Sanquhar,  ii.  454. 
Killoran,  house,  Colonsay,  i.  214. 
Kilmaehlie,  farm,  Inveraven,  i.  568. 
Kilmadock,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  38. 
Kilmaglass,   ancient   parisli,    Strachur,    ii. 

505. 
Kilmahew,  lands,  Cardross,  i.  178. 
Kn.MAiroG,  village,  Callander,  ii.  39. 
Kilmahunaig,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 
Kilmalcolm,  parish,  Renfrew,  ii.  39,  381. 
Kilmalie,  parish,  Argyll  and  Inverness,  ii. 

39. 
Kilmaluag,  bay,  Kilmuir,  ii.  53. 
Kilma.ny,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  41. 
Kilmardinny,  estate,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 
KILMARNOCK,  burgh,  Ayr,  ii.  42. 
Kilmarnock,  New,  former  parish,  i.  420. 
Kilmaron,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
624 


Kilmaronock,  parish,  Dumbarton,  ii.  44. 
Kilmaiitin,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  44. 
Kilmaurs,  burgh,  Ayr,  ii.  45. 
Kilmaveonaig,  old  parish,  Perth,  i.  132,  133. 
Kilmelford,  Argyll.     See  Kilnhiver. 
Kilmeny,  district,  Argyll,  ii.  46. 
Kilmhorie,  old  parish,  Argyll,  i.  224. 
Kilmichael,  Kilbride,  ii.  21,  22. 
Kilmichael,  old  parish,  Argyll,  i.  173. 
Kilmiciiaei.-Glassary,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  40. 
Kilmilieu,  old  parish,  Inverary,  i.  566. 
Kilminster,  moss,  Wick,  ii.  610. 
Kilmodan,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  47 — i.  60. 
Kilmonivaig,  parish,  Inverness,  ii.  48 — ii. 

40. 
Kilmorack,  parish,  Inverness,  ii.  49. 
Kilmore,  Argyll.     See  Kilninian. 
Kilmore,  house,  Urquhart,  ii.  583. 
Kilmore  and  Kilbride,  parish,  Argyll,  ii. 

50. 
Kilmorie,  in  Ardnamurchan,  i.  66. 
Kilmorie,  chapel,  Kirkcolm,  ii.  99. 
Kilmorie,  parish,  county  of  Bute,  ii.  51. 
Kilmorrie,  ancient  parish,  Straehlachlan,  ii. 

505. 
Kilmory,  lands,  Kilmichael-Glassary,  ii.  47. 
Kilmory,  mansion,  Lochgilphead,  ii.  195. 
Kilmuir,  parish,  Inverness,  ii.  52. 
Kilmuir    Easter,  parish,  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, ii.  53. 
Kilmuir  Wester,  Ross.     See  ICnockbain. 
Kil-Muluag,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  188. 
Kilmun,  Argyll.     See  Dunoon. 
Kilmux,  mansion,  Scoonie,  ii.  458. 
Kilnave,  in  Kilchoman,  ii.  26. 
Kilneuair,  in  Kilmichael-Glassary,  ii.  47. 
Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  parish,  Argyll,  ii. 

54. 
Kilninter   and   Kilmelford,  parish,  Ar- 
gyll, H.  56. 
Kilpatrick,  New,  or  East,  parish,  Dum- 
barton and  Stirling,  ii.  57. 
Kilpatrick,Old,  or  West,  parish,  Dumbar- 
ton, ii.  58. 
Kilpurnie,  hill,  Newtyle,  ii.  317- 
Kilqubanity,    lands,   Kirkpatriek-Durham, 

ii.  122. 
Kilravock,  castle,  Croy  and  Dalcross,  i.  243. 
KILRENNY,  burgh,  Fife,  ii.  60— i.  53. 
Kilspindie,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  61. 
Kilspindy,  lands,  and  castle,  Haddington,  i. 

26. 
Kilstay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  113. 
Kilsyth,  burgh  and  parish,  Stirling,  ii.  61 — 

i.  174. 
Kiltarlity,  parish,  Inverness,  ii.  63. 
Kiltearn,  parish,   Ross  and   Cromarty,  ii. 

64. 
Kiltrie,  Kenmore,  ii.  13. 
Kilumtaith,  ancient  parish,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Kilvickeon,  Argyll.     See  Kilfinichen. 
Kilvic-O-Charmaig,  ancient  parish,  North 

Knapdale,  ii.  133. 
KILWINNING,  town  and  parish,  Ayr,  ii. 

65— i.  68. 
Kimmerghame,  lands,  Edrom,  i.  394. 
Kinairdy,  mansion,  Marnoch,  ii.  232. 
Kinhattoch,  ancient  parish,  Towie,  ii.  557- 
Kinbeam,  farm,  in  Aberdour,  Aberdeen,  i. 

22. 
Kinbettock,  Aberdeen.     See  Towie. 
Kinblethmont,  house,  Inverkeillor,  i.  571. 
Kinbroom  House,  in  Fyvie,  i.  457. 


Kinbuck,  village,  Dunblane,  ii.  67—1.314. 

Kincaid,  Campsie,  i.  175. 

Kincairnie,  village,  Caputh,  ii.  67. 

Kincaldrum,  house,  Inverarity,  i.  565. 

Kincaple,  village,  St.  Andrew's,  ii.  67. 

Kincardine,  in  Blackford,  i.  131. 

Kincardine,  Inverness.     See  Abernethy. 

Kincardine,    burgh,   Tulliallan,   ii.   «7 — i. 
246,  ii.  562,  563. 

Kincardine,  old  village,  Fordoun,  i.  437. 

Kincardine,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 
68. 

Kincardine  in  Monteith,  parish,  Perth,  ii. 
69. 

Kincardine  O'Neil,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  70. 

KINCARDINESHIRE,  ii.  71. 

Kinclaven,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  72. 

Kincorth,  Dyke  and  Moy,  i.  346,  347. 

Kincraig,  hill,  Earlsferry,  i.  351,  ii.  28,  29. 

Kincraig  House,  Rosskeen,  ii.  431. 

Kindace,  lands,  Kilmuir  Easter,  ii.  54. 

Kindallachan,  village,  Dunkeld,  i.  330. 

Kindar,  Loch,  Newabbey,  ii.  303. 

Kinelie,  burn,  Towie,  ii.  557. 

Kindrogan,  mansion,  Moulin,  ii.  284. 

Kinellan,  loch,  Contin,  i.  216. 

Kinfauns,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  72. 

Kingartii,  parish,  Bute,  ii.  73, 

Kingcase,  hospital,  Monkton  and  Prestwick, 
ii.  271. 

King  Coil's  Tomb,  Tarbolton,  ii.  531. 

Kingcausie,  mansion,  Maryculter,  ii.  234. 

King-Edward,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  74. 

Kingennie,  ancient  chapelry,  Monifieth,  ii. 

263. 
Kingerloch,  tract,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii. 

188,  189,  190. 
KINGHORN,   burgh  and  parish,  Fife,  ii. 

75— i.  I. 
Kingincleugh  Cottage,  Mauchline,  ii.  237. 
Kinglas,  river,  Ardchattan,Argyllshire,  i.  62. 
Kinglassie,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  77. 
Kingledoors,  in  Drummelzier,  i.  293. 
King    Malcolm's    Gravestone,    Glammis,  i. 

478. 
Kingoldrum,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  78. 
Kingoodie,  village,  Longforgan,  ii.  79,  210 
Kingoody,  hill,  Bourtie,  i.  149. 
King's  Cairn,  Rathven,  ii.  406. 
King's  Castle,  Kirkwall  and  St.  Ola,  ii.  130. 
King's  Causeway,  Tain,  ii.  526. 
King's  Cave,  Kilmorie,  ii.  52. 
King's  Cave,  Little  Cumbray,  i.  251. 
King's  Cellar,  vault,  Dunfermline,  ii.  181. 
King's  College.     See  Old  Aberdeen. 
King's  Haugh,  in  Cabrach,  i.  164. 
King's  Hill,  Carluke,  i.  180. 
King's  Inch,  isle,  Renfrew,  ii.  412. 
King's  Knot,  Stirling,  ii.  492. 
King's  Meadows,  Peebles,  ii.  349. 
King's  Park,  Stirling,  ii.  491,  492,  494. 
King's  Pass,  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 
King's  Pool,  in  Westerkirk,  ii.  598. 
King's  Seat,  Dunkeld,  i.  327. 
King's  Seat,  hill,  Abernyte,  Perth,  i.  30. 
King's  Seat,  hill,  Dollar,  i.  283. 
King's  Seat,  lands,  New  Machar,  ii.  226. 
King's  Well,  Newtyle,  ii.  317- 
Kingsbarns,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  79. 
Kingscavil,  Linlithgow,  ii.  183. 
Kingsdale,  mansion,  Kennoway,  ii.  14. 
Kingseat,  hill,  Alyth,  Perth,  i.  43. 
Kingsford,  seat,  in  Alford,  Aberdeen,  i.  36. 


INDEX. 


Ringside,  lauds,  Eddlestone,  i.  300. 

Kingslauds,  Wester-town  of,  Auchtergaven, 
i.  79. 

Kiugsmuir,  lands,  Dimino,  i.  326. 

Kingston,  district,  Renfrew,  ii.  80. 

Kingston-Port,  village,  Speymouth,  ii.  80 
— i.  465. 

Kingswell,  seat,  Sorn,  ii.  473. 

Kingussie,  parish,  Inverness,  ii.  80. 

Kinharvey,  lands,  Newabbey,  ii.  304. 

Kinkell,  Aberdeen.     See  Keith-Hall. 

Kinkell,  in  Trinity- Gask,  i.  469. 

Kinkell,  rocks,  St.  Andrew's,  i.  48. 

Kinloch,  Perth.     See  Lethendy. 

Kiuloch,  hamlet,  "Rum  island,  ii.  441. 

Kinloch,  stream,  Tongue,  ii.  548. 

Kinloch,  village,  Collessie,  ii.  82. 

Kinloeh-Etive,  Argyll,  i.  61. 

Kinloch  House,  Collessie,  i.  212. 

Kinlochlaich,  mansion,  Lismore  and  Appin, 
ii.  190. 

Kinloch-Luichart,  district,  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, ii.  82. 

Kinlochspelve,  district,  Argyll,  ii.  82. 

Kinloss,  parish,  Elgin,  ii.  82. 
Kinmount  House,  Cummertrees,  i.  252. 
Kinmuck,  Keith-Hall  and  Kinkell,  ii.  5. 
Kinnaird,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  83. 
Kinnaird,  village,  Larbert,  ii.  84,  149. 
Kinnaird,  village,  Moulin,  ii.  83. 
Kinnaird  Castle,  Farnell,  i.  417. 
Kinnaird  Head,  near  Fraserburgh,  i.  454. 
Kinnaird  House,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 
Kinnairdy,  seat,  Banffshire,  i.  105. 
Kinnedar,  old  parish,  Elgin,  i.  290. 
Kiunedars,  Upper  and  Lower,  seats,  Saline, 

ii.  447. 
Kinneff,  parish,  Kincardine,  ii.  84 — i.  121. 
Kinneil,  Borrowstounness,  i.  143,  144. 
Kinneil,  Upper,  farm,  Borrowstounness,  i. 

144. 
Kinnell,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  85 — i.  222. 
Kinneil,  seat,  Killin,  ii.  37- 
Kinnellar,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  85. 
Kinnel- Water,  Kirkpatrick-Juxta,  ii.  125. 
Kinnermony,  district,  Aberlour,  Banff,  i.  27. 
Kinnerny,  old  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  204. 
Kinness,  rivulet,  St.  Andrew's,  i.  47. 
Kixnesswood,  village,  Portmoak,  ii.  86. 
Kinnethmont,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  86. 
Kinnettles,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  87. 
Kinuinmonth,  estate,  Lonmay,  ii.  214,  215. 
Kinnordy,  lake,  Kirriemuir,   ii.    131,  and 

House,  132. 
Kinnooll,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  88— i.  6. 
Kinoir,  old  parish,  Huntly,  i.  551. 
Kinrara,  estate,  in  Alvie,  Inverness,  i.  42. 
KINROSS,  town,  Kinross,  ii.  89. 
Kinrossie,  village,  Collace,  ii.  91. 
KINROSS-SHIRE,  ii.  91. 
Kintail,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  92. 
Entail,  ancient  parish,  Sutherland,  ii.  548. 
Kintessack,  village,  Dyke,  ii.  92. 
Kintore,  burgh,  Aberdeen,  ii.  92— ii.  5. 
Kintra,  bay,  in  Ardnamurchan,  Argyll,  i.  64. 
Kintra,  Moss,  Ardnamurchan,  i.  65." 
Kintradwell,  mansion,  Loth  pariah,  ii.  215. 
Kintulloch,  village,  Dunbarny,  ii.  94. 
Kip,  river,  Innerkip,  i.  561. 
Kip  Rock,  in  Ayton,  i.  90. 
Kiplaw,  hill,  Linton,  ii.  187. 
Kippen,  parish,  Perth  and  Stirling,  ii.  91. 
Vol.  I. — 625 


Kippenross,  house,  Dunblane,  i.  314. 

Kipperminshock,  lands,  Cardross,  i.  178. 

Kippet  Hills,  Slains  and  Forvie,  ii.  468. 

Kippilaw,  seat,  Bowden,  i.  149. 

Kipps,  New  Monkland,  ii.  267. 

Kipps,  hills,  Torphichen,  ii.  553. 

Kirk,  hamlet,  Lundie  and  Fowlis,  ii.  95. 

Kirk,  harbour,  Kinghorn,  ii.  76. 

Kirk  Hill,  Kinnettles,  ii.  88. 

Kirk  of  Field,  Edinburgh,  i.  364,  381. 

Kirk  of  How,  in  Westray,  ii.  601. 

Kirk  of  the  Grove,  Monzie,  ii.  276. 

Kirkaldt,  Fife.     See  Kirkcaldy. 

Kirkandrews,   village,  Borgue,   ii.   95 — i 

142,  143. 
Kirkapol,  hay,  Tiree,  ii.  544. 
Kirk  Bank,  mansion,  St.  Mungo,  ii.  293. 
Kirkeean,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  95. 
Kirk  Brae,  in  Inverarity,  i.  565. 
Kirkbride,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  113. 
Kirkhuddo,  old  parish,  Guthrie,  i.  526. 
Kirkburn,  in  Cambuslang,  i.  170. 
KIRKCALDY,  burgh,  Fife,  ii.  96— i.  1. 
Kirk-Christ,  old  parish,  Twynholm,  ii.  568. 
Kirkcolm,  parish,  Wigton,  ii.  98. 
Kirkconnel,  farm,  Tongland,  ii.  548. 
Kirkconnel,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  99, 
Kirkconnel,    ancient   parish,    Kirkpatrick- 

Fleming,  ii.  123. 
Kirkcovog,  Kirkwall  and  St.  Ola,  ii.  128. 
Kirkcraig,  rock,  Kinghorn,  ii.  76. 
KIRKCUDBRIGHT,  burgh,  ii.  100. 
KIRKCUDBRIGHT,  stewartry,  ii.  103. 
Kirkcudbright-Imiertig,  i.  93. 
Kirkdale,  ancient  parish,  Kirkmabreck,  ii. 

111. 
Kirkden,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  104. 
Kirkdrain,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  ]  13. 
Kirkfield,  district,  Gorbals,ii.  105— i.  512. 
Kirkfield-Bank,  village,    Lesmahago,    ii. 

105. 
Kirkforthar,  seat,  Markinch,  ii.  231. 
Kirkgunzeon,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  105. 
Kirkheuch,  St.  Andrew's,  i.  49. 
Kirkhill,  in  Avondale,  i.  84. 
Kirkhill,  castle,  Colmonell,  i.  214. 
Kirkhill,  mansion,  Meigle,  ii.  243. 
Kirkhill,  parish,  Inverness,  ii.  106. 
Kirkhill,  seat,  Uphall,  ii.  580. 
Kirkhill,  village,  Cambuslang,  ii.  106. 
Kirkhill,  village,  Penicuick,  ii.  100. 
Kirk-holm,  in  Sandsting  and  Aithstin»,  ii. 

451. 
Kirkhope,  bay,  Walls  and  Sandness,  ii.  589. 
Kirkhope,  farm,  Ettrick,  i.  408. 
Kirkibbost,  isle,  North  Uist,  ii.  100. 
Kirkiboll,  village,  Tongue,  ii.  106. 
Kirkindar,  Newabbey,  ii.  303. 
Kirkinner,  parish,  Wigton,  ii.  107. 
KIRKINTILLOCH,  burgh,  Dumbarton,  ii. 

108,  270. 
Kirkland,  in  Bonhill,  i.  141. 
Kirkland,  hamlet,  Glencairn,  ii.  109. 
Kirkland,  village,  Wemyss,  ii.  109,598. 
Kirkland  of  Tinwald,  village,  Tinwald,  ii. 

109. 
Kirklane,  village,  Kincardine  in  Monteith, 

ii.  109. 
Kirklands,  house,  in  Ancrum,  Roxburgh  i 
44.  =  '   ' 

Kirklands,  seat,  Saline,  ii.  447. 
Kirklands  of  Inverlunan,  Lur.an  parish,  ii 
220. 


Kirklaw  Hill,  Skirling,  ii.  467. 

Kirklebride,  lands,  Kirkpatrick- Durham,  ii. 
122. 

Kirkleish,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  113. 

Kirkliston,   parish,   Edinburgh  and   Lin- 
lithgow, ii.  109— i.  510. 

Kirk  Loch,  Lochmaben,  ii.  198. 

Kirkmabreck,    parish,    Kirkcudbright,   ii. 
111. 

Kirkmadrine,  ancient  parish,  Sorbie,  ii.  473. 

Kirkmaiioe,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  112. 

Kirkmaiden,  parish,  Wigton,  ii.  113. 

Kirkniaiden,  old  parish,  Glasserton,  i.  499. 

Kirkmay,  house,  Crail,  i.  226. 

Kirkmiehael,  lands,  Row  parish,  ii.  438. 

Kirkmichael,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  114. 

Kirkmichael,  parish,  Banff,  ii.  115. 

Kirkmichael,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  116. 

Kirkmichael,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  117. 

Kirkmichael    and    Cullicudden,    parish, 
Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  118. 

Kirkmdirhill,  village,  Lesmahago,  ii.  119. 

Kirknewton    and    East   Calder,    parish, 
Edinburgh,  ii.  119. 

Kirkney,  Water  of,  Rhyme  and  Essie,  ii. 
419. 

Kirkoswald,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  120. 

Kirkowan,  parish,  Wigton,  ii.  121 — ii.  107. 

Kirkpatrick  -  Durham,   parish,    Kirkcud- 
bright, ii.  122. 

Kirkpatrick-Fleming,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii. 
123. 

Kirkpatrick-Irongray,    parish,   Kirkcud- 
bright, ii.  124. 

Kirkpatrick-Juxta,  parish,  Dumfries,   ii. 
125. 

Kirk-Pottie,  old  parish,  Perth,  i.  312. 

Kirkside,  lands,  St.  Cyrus,  i.  259. 

Kirkstyle,  Lanarkshire,  i.  180. 

Kirkstyle,  in  Ruthwell,  ii.  444. 

Kirktomie,  valley,  i.  418,  419. 

Kirkton,  Forgan,  i.  442. 
Kirkton,  hamlet,  Dunnichen,  i.  334. 
Kirkton,  hamlet,  Glenisla,  ii.  126. 
Kirkton,  hamlet,  Tealing,  ii.  126. 
Kirkton,  lands,  Carluke,  i.  180. 
Kirkton,  stream,  Neilston,  ii.  300. 
Kirkton,  village,  Auchterhouse,  ii.  126. 
Kirkton,  village,  Balmerino,  ii.  126. 
Kirkton,  village,  Glenelg,  i.  505. 
Kirkton,  village,  Kirkmaiioe,  ii.  126. 
Kirkton,  village,  Largo,  ii.  126. 
Kirkton,  village,  Monzie,  ii.  276. 
Kirkton,  village,  Newtyle,  ii.  316. 
Kirkton,  village,  Strathmartine,  ii.  126. 
Kirkton  Hill,  Marykirk,  ii.  235. 
Kirkton  of  Kinnettles,  Kinnettles,  Forfar, 

ii.  126. 
Kirkton  of  Weem,  Perth,  ii.  126. 
Kirktoun,  glen,  Campsie,  i.  174. 
Kirktoun,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  126. 
Kirktoun,  village,  Burntisland,  ii.  120. 
Kirktoun,  village,  Fenwick,  ii.  127. 
Kirktoun  Holm,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  23. 
Kirktown,  in  Auchterless,  i.  80. 
Kirktown,  Rayne,  ii.  408. 
Kirktown,  hamlet,  Gutlirie,  i.  526. 
Kirktown  of  Fordoun,  Kincardineshire   ii 

127. 
Kirktown  of  New  Deer,  village,  Buchan 

ii.  127— i.  275. 
Kirktown  of  Rasay,  Rasay  island,  ii.  402. 
Kirkurd,  parish,  Peebles,  ii.  127. 
4L 


INDEX. 


Kirkville  House,  Skene,  ii.  466. 

KIRKWALL  and  ST.  OLA,  burgh,  Ork- 
ney, ii.  128. 

Kirkwood,  grounds,  St.  Mungo,  ii.  293. 

Kirk-Yetholm,  Roxburgh.     See  Yetlwhn. 

Kirouehtree,  seat,  Minnigaff,  ii.  258. 

KIRRIEMUIR,  burgh,  Forfar,  ii.  130. 

Kirtle,  district,  Dumfries,  ii.  132. 

Kirtle,  river,  Kirkpatrick-FIeming,  ii.  123. 

Kirtlebridge,  village,  Middlebie,  ii.  133. 

Kirtleton,  seat,  Kirtle,  ii.  132. 

Kishorn,  district,  in  Applecross,  i.  54,  ii. 
464. 

Kismull  Castle,  Barra,  i.  107. 

Kittersan,  hamlet,  Kirkowan,  ii.  133. 

Kittoch,  stream,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  23. 

KiTTocH-SinE,  village,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  133 
— ii.  23. 

Klett,  isle,  in  Assynt,  i.  73. 

Knab,  promontory,  Lerwick,  ii.  168. 

Knaik,  river,  Muthill,  ii.  296. 

Knap,  point,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 

Knapdale,  North,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  133. 

Knapdale,  South,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  134. 

Kneess,  headland,  Stornoway,  Lewis,  ii.  502. 

Knightland  Moss,  Drumblade,  i.  292. 

Knightsridge  hill,  Livingstone,  ii.  191. 

Knightswood,  village,   New  Kilpatrick,  ii. 
135. 

Knipe,  mountain,  New  Cumnock,  i.  253. 

Knock,  in  Mull  island,  Argyll,  ii.  446. 

Knock,  or  Un,  district,  Lewis,  ii.  135. 

Knock,  burn,  Rothiemay,  ii.  435. 

Knock,  castle,  Sleat  parish,  Skye,  ii.  471. 

Knock,  hill,  Bathgate,  i.  111. 

Knock,  hill,  Grange,  i.  518. 

Knock,  house,  Largs,  ii.  152. 

Knockando,  parish,  Elgin,  ii.  135. 

Knockbain,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 
136. 

Knockbreck,  river,  Jura,  i.  591. 

Knoek-Craig,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  117. 

Knockdavie,  in  Burntisland,  i.  162. 

Knockdaw,  castle,  Colmonell,  i.  214. 

Knockderry,  Roseneath,  ii.  428. 

Knockdolian,  Colmonell,  i.  213,  214. 

Knockdow,  mountain,  Ayr,  i.  89. 

Knock-Durroch,  eminence,  Monzie,  ii.  276. 

Knockenbaird,  lands,  Inseh,  i.  503. 

Knoekespoch,  house,  Clatt,  i.  201. 

Knockewart,  estate,  Ardrossan,  Ayr,  i.  68. 

Knock-Farril,  in  Fodderty,  i.  434. 

Knock-Georgan,  hill,  Ayrshire,  i.  68. 

Kuockhall,  castle,  Foveran,  i.  453. 

Knockhead,  Boindie,  i.  138. 

Knock  Hill,  Renfrew  parish,  ii.  413,  414. 

Knockinglew,  hill,  Inverury,  i.  581. 

Knockman,  loch,  Dairy,  i.  267. 

Knockmarloch,  in  Riccarton,  ii.  420. 

Knockmead,  hill,  Dunlop,  i.  332. 

Knock-Moray,  hill,  Edinkillie,  i.  392. 

Knoekmoy,  mountain,  Southend,  ii.  476. 

Knock-na-Bareibhich,  hill,  Reay,  ii.  408. 

Knock-na-Gillan,  farm,  in  Auldearn,  i.  83. 

Knocknalling,  house,  Kells,  ii.  6. 

Knoeknounan,  mountain,  Ayr,  i.  89. 

Knocksiioggle-Holm,  village,   Coylton,   ii. 
137. 

Knockaide,  hill,  Largs,  ii.  151. 

Knock-Sleitill,  hill,  Reay,  ii.  408. 

Knocksting,  loch,  Dairy,  i.  267. 

Knodyart,  district,  Glenelg,  i.  505,  506. 

Knowhead,  lands,  Dennv,  i.  278. 
626 


Knownowton,  in  Cambusnethan,  i.  170. 

Knows,  Beith,  i.  114. 

Knowsouth  House,  Bedrule,  i.  113. 

Kyle,  castle,  Auchinleck,  i.  76. 

Kyle,  river,  Stair,  ii.  483. 

Kyleakin,  village,  Isle  of  Skye,  ii,  137. 

Kyleshill,  eminence,  Polwarth,  ii.  379. 

Kyleside,  in  Assynt,  i.  73. 

Kype,  stream,  Avondale,  i.  84. 

Kype's  Rigg,  in  Avondale,  i.  84. 


Lackerstone,  barrow,  Kettle,  ii.  16. 
Lacksta,  in  Harris,  i.  536. 
Laeock,  lands,  Fowlis  Wester,  i.  454. 
Ladhope,  district,  Roxburgh,  ii.  137. 
Ladhope  Hills,  Melrose,  ii.  246. 
Ladies'  Hill,  Stirling,  ii.  491. 
Lady,  isle,  Ayr,  ii.  137,  561. 
Lady,  parish,  Orkney,  ii.  138. 
Ladyacre,  in  Inchinnan,  i.  558- 
Ladybank,  village,  Collessie,  ii.  ]38. 
Ladyburn,  rivulet,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
Lady-Glen,  in  Dailly,  i.  260. 
Lady  Hill,  Elgin,  i.  397,  399. 
Lady-Kirk,  Duncansbay,  Caithness,  i.  315. 
Ladykirk,  Orkney.     See  Stronsay. 
Ladykirk,  parish,  Berwick,  ii.  138. 
Ladykirk,  seat,  Monkton  and  Prestwick,  ii. 

271. 
Ladyland,  lands,  Kilbirnie,  ii.  18. 
Ladyloan,  district,  Forfar.     See  Arbroath. 
Ladysford,  house,  Tyrie,  ii.  571. 
Lady's  Rock,  Papa-Stour,  Shetland,  ii.  346. 
Lady  Yester,  parish.     See  Edinburgh. 
Ladywell,  near  Glasgow,  i.  137. 
Lag,  in  Kilmorie,  ii.  52. 
Lag,  Dumfriesshire,  i.  338,  ii.  285. 
Laga,  in  Ardnamurchan,  i.  66. 
Lagamhulin,  Kildalton,  ii.  29, 30. 
Laganallachy,  old  parish,  Perth,  i.  331. 
Lagg,  bay,  Eigg,  Inverness,  i.  396. 
Lagg,  in  Jura,  Argyll,  i.  591,  592. 
Laggan,  eminence,  Monivaird  and  Strowan, 

ii.  266. 
Laggan,  parish,  Inverness,  ii.  139. 
Laggan,  river,  Kilarrow  and  Kilmeny,  ii.  16. 
Laggan  of  Cantyre,  Campbelltown,  i.  173. 
Laggan  Point,  Torosay,  Argyll,  ii.  552. 
Laggan-UIva,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  ii.  55. 
Laght  Alpine,  Dalmellington,  i.  265. 
Lahaich,  loch,  Kilfinichen  and  Kilviceuen, 

ii.  33. 
Lahill,  seat,  Newburn,  ii.  309. 
Laigh,  vale,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Laigh-Gameshill,  Dunlop,  i.  332. 
Lainshaw  House,  Stewarton,  ii.  488. 
Lairdmannoch,  Linn  of,  Tongland,  ii.  547. 
Laird's  hill,  Kilsyth,  ii.  62. 
Lairg,  parish,  Sutherland,  ii.  140. 
Laithers,  lands,  Turriff,  ii.  567. 
Lakefield,  house,  Urquhart,  ii.  583. 
Lakehead,  Kirkmahoe,  ii.  113. 
Lamancha,  in  Newlands  parish,  ii.  311. 
Lamb,  isle,  Dirleton,  i.  282. 
Lamba,  isle,  Shetland,  ii.  141,  323. 
Lambden,  house,  Greenlaw,  i.  521. 
Lamberlaws,  in  Burntisland,  i.  162. 
Lamljerton,  manor,  Mordington,  ii.  277, 278. 
Lambhead,  in  Stronsay,  ii.  519,  520. 
Lambholm,  isle,  Orkney,  ii.  141. 


Lamgarroch,  hill,  Tynron,  ii.  570. 
Lamlash,  island,  Bute,  ii.  141 — ii.  21,  22. 
Lammerlaw,  hill,  Yester,  ii.  620. 
Lammermoor,  district,  i.  126,  529. 
Lammingtoune,  village,  Wandell,  ii.    141, 

592,  593. 
Lamp  Acre,  Corstorphine,  i.  218. 
LANARK,  burgh,  Lanark,  ii.  141. 
Lanark,  New,  village,  Lanark,  ii.  144. 
LANARKSHIRE,  ii.  144. 
Land,  farm,  Tynron,  ii.  570. 
Lanfine,  mansion,  Galston,  i.  461. 
Langavat,  loch,  Uig,  ii.  573. 
LANGHOLM,  burgh,  Dumfries,  ii.  146— i. 

530. 
Langholm,  New,  village,  Dumfries,  ii.  147. 
Langholm,  The,  mountain,  Dumfriesshire,  i. 

308. 
Langhouse,  seat,  Renfrewshire,  ii.  415. 
Langlee,  house,  Jedburgh,  i.  587. 
Langlee  Hills,  Melrose,  ii.  246. 
Langley,  former  parish,  Banff,  i.  421 . 
Langley  Park,  Dun,  i.  309. 
Langloan,  village,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  147, 

269,  270. 
Langraw,  in  Hobkirk,  i.  543. 
Langrigg,  village,  Whitburn,  ii.  147. 
Langshaw,  Melrose,  ii.  247. 
Langshaw,   mansion,  Kirkpatrick-FIeming, 

ii.  124. 
Langside,  mansion,  Peebles,  ii.  349. 
Langside,  village,  Cathcart,  ii.  147 — i.  192. 
Langton,  parish,  Berwick,  ii.  148. 
Langton  Tower,  Coldingham,  i.  209. 
Langton,  burn,  Dunse,  i.  339,  340. 
Langwell,  river,  Latheron,  ii.  154,  155. 
Lanrick,  moor,  Kilmadoek,  ii.  39. 
Lanton,  village,  Jedburgh,  ii.  149 — i.  586, 

588. 
Lany,  suppressed  parish,  Port  of  Monteith, 

ii.  386. 
Laoghal,  loch,  Tongue,  ii.  548. 
Laoidean,  loch,  Fortingal,  i.  448. 
Laorin,  creek,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  ii.  54. 
Laraig-ruadh,  pass,  Rothiemurchus,  ii.  436. 
Larbert,  parish,  Stirling,  ii.  149. 
Larch  Grove,  in  Currie,  i.  258. 
Larg,  farm,  Inch,  i.  556. 
Larg,  hill,  Kirkmabreck,  ii.  111. 
Larg  Hills,  Urr,  ii.  585. 
Largie,  mansion,  Killean  and  Kilchenzie,  ii. 

34. 
Largo,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  1 49. 
Largo,  Lower,  village,  ii.  151. 
Largoward,  Kilconquhar,  ii.  29. 
LARGS,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  151. 
Largybeg  Point,  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 
Larig-Aoilt,  Ardchattan,  i.  61. 
Lariston,  estate,  Castleton,  i.  191. 
Larkhall,  district,  Lanark,  ii.  152 — i.  270. 
Larkhall,  in  Jedburgh,  i.  588. 
Laroch,  stream,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189  ; 

farm,  ii.  190. 
Lasswade,  parish,  Edinburgh,  ii.  153. 
Lathallan,  Kilconquhar,  ii.  29. 
Lathallan,  Wester,  mansion,  Newburn,  ii. 

309. 
Lathalmond,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 
Latheron,  parish,  Caithness,  ii.  154. 
Latheron-Wheel,  hamlet,  Latheron,  ii.  155. 
Lathrisk,  estate,  Kettle,  ii.  1 5. 
Lathro,  lands,  Kinross,  ii.  91. 
Lauchope  House,  Bothwell,  i.  546. 


INDEX. 


LAUDER,  burgh,  Berwick,  ii.  155. 

Lauderdale,  Berwickshire,  i.  126. 

Laughing  Hill,  Borrowstounness,  i.  144. 

LAURENCEKIRK,  burgh,  Kincardine,  ii. 
157. 

Laurencetoun,  Falkirk,  ii.  158. 

Laurieston,  district,  near  Glasgow,  ii.  158. 

Laurieston,   village,  Balmaghie,  ii.   15H— 
i.  97. 

Laurieston,  village,  Stirling,  ii.  158. 

Lauriston,  St.  Cyrus,  i.  258,  259. 

Lauriston,  house,  Cramond,  i.  227. 

Laverock,  tract,  Berwick,  i.  207. 

Law,  in  Carluke,  i.  181. 

Law,  hill,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 

Law,  mount,  Kirkurd,  ii.  128. 

Law  Cairn,  in  Tyrie,  ii.  571. 

Law  Castle,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  25. 

Lawers,  Kenmore,   ii.   12.     See  also  Ben- 
Lawers. 

Lawers,  seat,  Monivaird  and  Strowau,  ii. 
267. 

Law-field,  in  Craig,  i.  222. 

Lawhead,   hill,    Whitekirk    and   Tynning- 

hame,  ii.  604. 
Lawhill,  Blautyre,  i.  136. 
Law  Hillock,  in  Deskford,  i.  280. 
Lawhill-Side,  hill,  Bourtie,  i.  149. 
Lawkneis,  hill,  Selkirkshire,  ii.  461. 
Law  Knoll,  in  Errol,  i.  405. 
Lawmoor,  house,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  23. 
Law-Muir,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 
Lawrence,  St.,  Slamannan,  ii.  469. 
Lawrence  Road,  in  Culsamond,  i.  247. 
Lawrie's  Well,  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  279. 
Laws, mansion,  Monifieth,  ii.  263  ;  hill,  264. 
Laxay,  river,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 
Laxdale,  river,  Stornoway,  Lewis,  ii.  502. 
Laxfirth  Voe,  in  Tingwall,  ii.  541,  542. 
Laxford,  loch,  Eddrachillis,  i.  360. 
Leacht,  hill,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  116. 
Leader,  river,  Earlstoun,  i.  352  ;  Lauder, 

ii.  156. 
Leadhills,  district,  Lanark,  ii.  159 — i.  230. 
Leadhlich,  hill,  Coull,  i.  219. 
Leadlaw,  hill,  Linton,  ii.  186. 
Lea-Elian,  isle,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 
Learney,  hill,  Kincardine  O'Neil,  ii.  70. 
Leask,  estate,  Slains  and  Forvie,  ii.  468, 469. 
Lebanon,  suburb,  Cupar,  i.  255. 
Leckan,  hills,  Kilchrenan  and  Dalavicb,  ii. 

27- 
Leckie,  Gargunnock,  i.  463. 
Lecropt,  parish,  Perth  and  Stirling,  ii.  159. 
Leddie,  river,  Aberlady,  Haddington,  i.  25. 
Leddiegreen,  house,  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 
Ledmore,  in  Criech,  i.  233. 
Lednock,  stream,  Comrie,  i.  215. 
Lee,  hill,  in  Carluke,  i.  180. 
Lee,  lands,  Lanark,  ii.  142,  143. 
Lee,  river,  Lochlee,  ii.  196. 
Leeds,  New,  village,  Strichen,  ii.  160. 
Lees,  seat,  Coldingham,  i.  210. 
Leet,  river,  Swinton,  ii.  524. 
Leetown,  village,  Errol,  ii.  160. 
Leetside,   farm,  Whitsome  and  Hilton,   ii. 

607. 
Legerwood,  parish,  Berwick,  ii.  160. 
Leggan,  loch,  Kippen,  ii.  94. 
Leggerdale,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  105. 
Leitchtown,  residence,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii. 

387. 
LEITH,  burgh,   Edinburghshire,  ii.   161  ; 
627 


also  i.  363,  364,  &c,  Edinburgh  ;  Bell's 
bequest,  i.  47. 
Leith,  St.   John's,  district,  Edinburgh,  ii. 

165. 
Leith,  Water  of,  Edinburghshire,  i.  211,391. 
Leith,  Water  of,  village,  Edinburgh,  ii. 

165. 
Leithen,  river,  Peebles,  ii.  350. 
Leith  Hall,  mansion,  Kinnethmont,  ii.  86. 
Leith-Lumsden,    village,  Auchindoir   and 

Kearn,  ii.  165. 
Leitholm,  village,  Eccles,  ii.  165— i.  355. 
Lemna,  burn,  Rescobie,  ii.  417- 
Lempit-Law,  height,  Sprouston,  ii.  480. 
Lempitlaw,  village,  Sprouston,  ii.  165,  481. 
Lenabo,  Longside,  ii.  213. 
Lendal,  stream,  Girvau,  i.  475. 
Leney  House,  Callander,  ii.  39. 
Leney,  Little,  Callander,  i.  168. 
Leunel,  ancient  parish,  Coldstream,  i.  209, 

210. 
Lennock,  stream,  Birnie,  i.  128. 
Lennox,  district,  Dumbarton,  i.  304. 
Lennox  Castle,  Campsie,  ii.  166. 
Lennox  Fells,  Balfron,  i.  93. 
Lennox  Tower,  Currie,  i.  257. 
Lennoxlove,  mansion,  Haddington,  i.  528. 
Lennox's  Cairn,  mound,  Linlithgow,  ii.  182. 
Lennoxtown,  village,    Stirling,  ii.   165— i. 

174. 
Lentran,  mansion,  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 
Lentrathen,  Forfar.     See  Lintratlien. 
Lenzie,  Wester,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  108. 
Leochel  and  Cushnie,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii. 

166. 
Leogh,  hamlet,  in  Fair,  i.  411. 
Leonach,  height,  Nairnshire,  ii.  299. 
Leonard's,  St.,  College.     See  Andrew's,  St. 
Leonard's,  St.,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  167. 
LERWICK,  burgh,  Shetland,  ii.  168,  541. 
Leslie,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  169. 
Leslie,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  170. 
Lesmahago,  parish,  Lanark,  ii.  171. 
Lesmore,  lands,  Rhynie  and  Essie,  ii.  419. 
Lesmurdie,  in  Cabrach,  i.  164. 
Lessendrum,  mansion,  Drumblade,  i.  292. 
Lessudden,  village,  Roxburgh,  ii.  172 — ii. 

146, 
Leswalt,  parish,  Wigton,  ii.  172— i.  555. 
Lethain,  house,  Haddington,  i.  528. 
Letham,  village,  Dunnichen,  ii.  172. 
Letham,  village,  Monimail,  ii.  172. 
Letham  Grange,  in  St.  Vigean's,  ii.  587. 
Letham  Hill,  Inverkeithing,  i.  573. 
Lethen,  burn,  Ardclach,  i.  63. 
Lethen,  estate,  Auldearn,  i.  82 — i.  63. 
Lethenbar,  hill,  Ardclach,  Nairn,  i.  63. 
Lethendy,  Scone  parish,  ii.  457. 
Lethendy  and  Kinloch,  parish,  Perth,  ii. 

173. 
Lethington,  house,  Haddington,  i.  528,  529. 
Lethnott  and  Navar";  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  173. 
Letterbeg,  farm,  Strachan,  ii.  505. 
Letterewe,  estate,  Gairloch,  i.  458. 
Letterfearn,  district,  Glenshiel,  i.  510. 
Letterfourie,  mansion,  Rathven,  ii.  405. 
Leuchar,  rivulet,  Peterculter,  ii.  367- 
Leuchars,  mansion,  ii.  581. 
Leuchars,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  174. 
Leucophibia,  Wigtonshire,  ii.  605. 
LEVEN,  burgh,  Fife,  ii.  175. 
Leven,  loch,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 
Leven,  loch,  Kinross-shire,  ii.  91. 


Leven,  river,  Leslie,  ii.  170. 
Leven,  river,  Bonhill,  i.  141. 
Levenach,  ancient  district,  Dumbarton,  i. 

304. 
Levenbank- works,  Bonhill,  i.  141. 
Levenfield,  Bonhill,  i.  141. 
Levenstrath,  mansion,  Southend,  ii.  477. 
Levenwiek,  bay,  Dunrossness,  i.  338. 
Levern,  district,  Renfrew,  ii.  176. 
Levern,  river,  Neilston,  i.  108,  ii.  300. 
Lewis,  Island  of,  Inverness,  and  Ross  and 

Cromarty,  ii.  176. 
Lewistown,  East  and  West,  village,  Urqu- 

hart,  ii.  176. 
Ley,  in  Towie,  ii.  558. 
Ley  op  Halliburton,  hamlet,  Kettins,  ii. 

176. 
Leys,  in  Croy  and  Dalcross,  i.  243. 
Leys,  in  Kincardineshire,  i.  100,  101,  294. 
Leys,  lands,  Errol,  i.  403. 
Leysmill,  village,  Inverkeillor,  ii.  176 — i. 

571. 
Lhanbryde.     See  Andrew's,  St.,  Elgin. 
Libberton,  parish,  Lanark,  ii.  176. 
Liberton,  parish,  Edinburgh,  ii.  177- 
Libo,  loch,  Neilston,  ii.  300. 
Licklyhead,  mansion,  Premnay,  ii.  392. 
Lickprivick,  castle,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 
Liddel,  river,  Canobie,  i.   176  ;  Castletou, 

190. 
Liddelbank,  estate,  Castleton,  i.  191. 
Liddesdale,  Roxburgh,  i.  190. 
Lidnathy,  stream,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  131. 
Liechestown,  farm,  Deskford,  i.  280. 
Liff  and  Benvie,  parish,  Forfar  and  Perth, 

ii.  178. 
Lightburn,   village,   Cambuslang,   ii.    180, 

464. 
Lightwater,  burn,  Falkirk,  i.  415. 
Lilliard's  Edge,  Maxton,  ii.  239. 
Lilliesleaf,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  180. 
Lillyburn,  in  Campsie,  i.  175. 
Lily,  loch,  Shotts,  i.  119. 
Limefield,  house,  West  Calder,  i.  167. 
Limekilns,  village,  Dunfermline,  ii.  181. 
Limmerfield,  Glasgow,  i.  480. 
Lincluden,  seat,  Terregles,  ii.  536. 
Lindean,  old  parish,  Galashiels,  i.  459. 
Lindertis  House,  hi  Airlie,  Forfar,  i.  34. 
Lindores,  village,  Abdie,  ii.  181 — i.  2,  3;  ii. 

306,  308. 
Lindston,  loch,  Dalrymple,  i.  268,  269. 
Line,   lake,   Kilninver   and  Kihnelford,   ii. 

57. 
Linga,  isle,  Fetlar,  Shetland,  ii.  181. 
Linga,  isle,  Delting,  Shetland,  ii.  181. 
Linga,  isle,  Tingwall,  Shetland,  ii.  181. 
Linga,  isle,  Unst,  Shetland,  ii.  181. 
Linga,  isle,  Walls  and  Sandness,  Shetland, 

ii.  181. 
Linga,  Little  and  Muckle,  Stronsay,  Shet- 
land, ii.  181. 
Lingafiold,  hill,  Sandwick,  ii.  451,  452. 
Lingay,  isle,  Barra,  Inverness,  ii.  181. 
Lingay,  isle,  Harris,  Inverness,  ii.  181. 
Linghohn,  isle,  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 
Linglass,  in  Wick,  Caithness,  ii.  611. 
Linhouse,  stream,  Calder,  i.  166,  167. 
Linket,  bay,  North  Ronaldshay,  Orkney,  ii. 

424. 
Linndean,  cascade,  Fala  and  Soutra,  i.  412. 
Linksfield,  in  St.  Andrew's  Lhanbryde,  El- 
gin, i.  50. 

4  L  2 


INDEX. 


Linksness,  headland,  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 
Linktown,  town,  Fife,  ii.  181 — i.  2. 
Linlathen,  mansion,  Monifieth,  ii.  263. 
LINLITHGOW,  burgh,  Linlithgow,  ii.  182 

— i.  365,  366. 
Linlithgow-Bridge,  Linlithgow,  ii.  184 — ii. 

182,  290. 
LINLITHGOWSHIRE,  ii.  184. 
Linmill,  burn,  Dalmeny,  i.  265. 
Linn,  lands,  Dairy,  i.  267- 
Linn,  in  Deskford,  i.  279. 
Linnburn,  seat,  Kirknewton  and  East  Calder, 

ii.  120. 
Linnhe,  Loch,  Argyllshire,  i.  69. 
Linnhe,  rivei',  Arroehar,  i.  71. 
Linnmill,  burn,  in  Abercorn,  Linlithgow,  i. 

4. 
Lintalee,  Jedburgh,  i.  587,  588. 
Linthill,  house,  Eyemouth,  i.  410. 
Linthill,  seat,  Bowden,  i.  149. 
Linton,  house,  in  Cluny,  i.  204. 
Linton,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  186. 
Linton,  or  West  Linton,  parish,  Peebles,  ii. 

185. 
Linton,  village,  Prestonkirk,  ii.  185. 
Lintkathen,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  187. 
Lintrose,  mansion,  Kettins,  ii.  14. 
Lmwoon,  village,  Renfrew,  ii.  188. 
Ljsmore  and  Appin,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  188 — 

i.  95. 
Liston,  Kirkliston,  ii.  109. 
Liston-Shiels,  Kirkliston,  ii.  110. 
Lithy,  Loch,  Auldearn,  i.  82. 
Little  Colonsay.  See  Colonsay,  Little.  And, 

all  places  having  a  similar  distinguishing 

prefix  will  be  found  under  the  proper  name. 
Littledean  Tower,  Maxton,  ii.  239. 
Little-Ferry,  in  Golspie,  i.  511. 
Little-France,  village,  Liberton,  ii.  177- 
Little-Loch,  Mearns,  ii.  242. 
Littt.e-Mii.l,  village,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  191 

— ii.  59. 
Littlemilstick,  in  A voch,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 

i.  83. 
Little-Water,  Methlick,  ii.  250. 
Little- Wood  Park,  in  Tullynessle,  ii.  564. 
Liver,  stream,  Ardchattan,  i.  62. 
Livet,  river,  Banffshire,  i.  105. 
Livet,  Linn  of,  Inveraven,  i.  567. 
Livingstone,  parish,  Linlithgow,  ii.  191. 
Loak,  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 
Loanhead,  village,  Denny,  ii.  191. 
Loanhead,   village,   Lasswade,   ii.   191 — ii. 

1515,  154. 
Loans,  village,  Dundonald,  ii.  191. 
Loans-Bridge,  Dairy,  i.  267. 
Loch  Alvie.    See  Alxie,  Loch.   And  all  other 

Lochs  will  be  found  under  file  proper  name, 

atul  not  under  the  Jtead  of  Loch. 
Lochaber,  district,  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  48. 
Loch-a-Bhealich,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Loch-a-Chorry,  Kincardine,  ii.  68. 
Lochalsh,   parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 

191. 
LocJiao,  stream,  Avondale,  i.  84. 
Loch-an-Eilean,  Rothiemurchus,  ii.  436. 
Loch-an-Falloch,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  387. 
L'x  lian-Leamhan,  Kilmichael-Glassary,   ii. 

47. 
L0CHAH8,  village,  Inch,  ii.  192. 
Lochar,  river,  Dumfries,  i.  307,  ii.  555. 
Locharbriogs,  village,  Dumfries,  ii.  192. 
Lochar  Moss,  Dumfries,  i.  307,  ii-  285. 

628 


Lochaven,  in  Abernethy,  Elgin,  i.  28. 

Lochaweside,  Kilmichael-Glassary,  ii.  47. 

Lochay,  river,  Killin,  ii.  37. 

Lochbroom,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 
192. 

Loch-Burn,  rivulet,  Linlithgow,  ii.  183. 

Lochbuy,  in  Torosay,  Argyll,  ii.  550,  551, 
552. 

Lochcarron,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 
193— i.  54. 

Loehcote,  house,  Torphichen,  ii.  553. 

Lochcraig,  mountain,  Moffat,  ii.  260. 

Lochearnhead,    village,    Balquhidder,    ii. 
194. 

Lochee,   village,   Forfar,   ii.    194 — ii.   179, 
180. 

Loch-End,  lake,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 

Lochend,  lake,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 

Lochend,  lands,  Kirkgunzeon,  ii.  106. 

Lochend  House,  Dunbar,  i.  311. 

Locher,  river,  Kilbarchan,  ii.  17. 

Locherwart,  ancient  parish,  i.  144. 

Lochfell,  height,  Moffat,  ii.  260. 

Lochfineside,  Kilmichael-Glassary,  ii.  47. 
Lochfoot,  village,  Lochrutton,  ii.  194. 
Lochgelly,  village,  Auchterderran,  ii.  194 

— i.  78. 
LOCHGILPHEAD,  village,  Argyll,  ii.  195. 
Lochgoilhead  and  Kilmorich,  parish,  Ar- 
gyll, ii.  195. 
Lochgorum,  Kilchoman,  ii.  26. 
Lochhead,  Argyllshire,  i.  1 72. 
Loch-head,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 
Lochhouse,    tower,    Kirkpatrick-Juxta,    ii. 

125. 
Lochiel,  in  Lorn,  Argyll,  i.  70. 
Lochinbreck,  lake,  Balmaghie,  i.  97. 
Loeh-in-daal,  Sleat  parish,  Skye,  ii.  470. 
Loehindorb,  lake  and  castle,  Edinkillie,  i. 

392. 
Lochintallin,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 
Lochinvar,  lake,  Dairy,  i.  267. 
Lochinver,  village,  Assynt,  ii.  196- — i.  73. 
Loehknock,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 
Lochlands,  Aberdeen,  market,  i.  14. 
Lochlee,  in  Tarbolton,  ii.  530. 
Lochlee,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  196. 
Lochleven  Castle,  Kinross,  ii.  89,  404. 
Loehlin,  castle,  Fearn,  i.  420. 
LOCHMABEN,  burgh,  Dumfries,  ii.  197. 
Lochmaddy,   in   North  Uist,   ii.  562,  574, 

575. 
Lochmalonie,  Kilmany,  ii.  41. 
Lochmingary,  creek,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore, 

ii.  54. 
Lochmure,  lands,  Angus,  i.  97. 
Lochnaboe,  lake,  Elginshire,  i.  400. 
Lochnachat,  lake,  Clunie,  i.  203. 
Loch-na-Clar,  in  Sutherlandshire,  ii.  523. 
Lochnacuen,  Kildonan,  ii.  30. 
Lochnagar,  mountain,  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Loch-na-Keal,  isle  of  Mull,  ii.  292. 
Loch-nanean,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  118. 
Loch-nan-Uamh,  Ardnamurchan,  Argyll,  i. 

65. 
Loch-na-Reaull,  Ardnamui'chan,  Argyll,  i. 

65. 
Loeh-na-Sealg,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Lochnell  House,  Ardchattan,  i.  62. 
Lochnaw  Castle,  Leswalt,  ii.  172. 
Lochore,  estate,  Ballingry,  i.  95. 
Lochranza,  castle,  Kilbride,  ii.  21. 
Lochridge,  mansion,  Stewarton,  ii.  488. 


Lochrin,  St.  Cuthbert's,  Edinburgh,  ii.  390. 

Lochrutton,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  199. 
Lochs,  district,  in  Applecross,  i.  54. 
Lochs,  parish,  in  Lewis,  Ross  and  Cromartv. 

ii.  199. 
Lochside,  hamlet,  St.  Cyrus,  ii.  200. 
Loch-Skene,    mountain,   Dumfries,   i.   308, 
309. 

Lochsyde,  seat,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  202. 
Lochthorn,  village,  Dumfries,  ii.  200. 
Lochtolla,  lake,  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 
Lochton,  hill,  Longforgan,  ii.  210 ;  mansion, 

211. 
Lochty,  Markinch,  ii.  232. 

Lochty,  river,  Kinglassie,  ii.  77- 

Lochwinnoch,  parish,  Renfrew,  ii.  200. 

Lochwood,  castle,  Johnstone,  i.  589. 

Lochy,  loch  and  river,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 

LOCKERBIE,  town,  Dumfries,  ii.  204. 

Logan,  house,  Old  Cumnock,  i.  254. 

Logan,  seat,  Wigtonshire,  ii.  614. 

Logan,  stream,  Glencross,  i.  504. 

Logan,  stream,  Halfmorton,  i.  530. 

Logan-Bank,  house,  Glencross,  i.  504. 

Logan  House,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 

Logan  House,  Penicuick,  ii.  352. 

Logan  Water,  Lesmahago,  ii.  171. 

Logan  Water,  Penicuick,  ii.  353. 

Loggie,  burn,  Torphichen,  ii.  552. 

Logie,  burn,  Gamrie,  i.  462. 

Logie,  house,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 

Logie,  lands,  Liff  and  Benvie,  ii.  1 78. 

Logie,  loch,  Crimond,  i.  237- 

Logie,  parish,  Clackmannan,  Perth,  and  Stir- 
ling, ii.  205. 

Logie,  parish,  Fife,  Ii.  204. 

Logie,  or  South  Parish,  Forfar.    See  Kirrie- 
muir. 

Logie,  village,  Logie-Pert,  ii.  204. 

Logiealmond,  district,  Moneydie,  ii.  262. 

Logiebride,  ancient  parish,  Perth,  i.  79. 

Logie-Buchan,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  206. 

Logie-Coldstone,  parish,  Aberdeen, ii.  207. 

Logie-Durno,     Aberdeen.      See     Garioch, 
Chapel  of. 

Logie  Easter,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 
ii.  207. 

Logie-EIphinstone,   house,    Chapel    of   Ga- 
rioch, i.  464. 

Logie  Head,  in  Fordyce,  i.  438. 

Logie  House,  Edinkillie,  i.  393. 

Logie  Law,  in  Flisk,  i.  433. 

Logie-Pert,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  208. 

Logierait,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  209. 

Logie  Wester,  Nairn,  and  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty.    See  Urquhart. 

Loing,  loch,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 

Loing,  river,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 

Loirston,  loch,  Nigg,  ii.  318. 

Lomond  Hills,  East  and  West,  Fife,  i.  428. 

Lomond,  Loch,  Buchanan,  i.  157  ;  Luss,  ii. 
222. 

Lonach,  hill,  Strathdon,  ii.  512. 

Lonan,  river,  Ardchattan,  ii.  288. 

Louehead,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  202. 

Long,  Loch,  Argyllshire,  i.  71,  ii.  427. 

Long  Loch,  Lundle  and  Fowlis,  ii.  221. 

Long  Loch.  Neilston,  ii.  300. 

Longa,  island,  in  Strath,  ii.  509. 

Longannat,  hamlet,  Tulliallan,  ii.  563. 

Longcastle,   ancient   parish,    Kirkinner     ii. 
107. 

Long  Craig,  pier,  Queensferry,  ii.  397- 


INDEX. 


Longfaugh,  property,  Crichton,  i.  233. 
Longforgan,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  210. 
Longformacus  and  Ellim,  parish,  Berwick, 

ii.  211. 
Long  Gallery,  cave,  Dunnottar,  i.  336. 
Long  Haven,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  22. 
Longhope,   bay,    Walls   and    Sandness,   ii. 

589. 
Long  Island,  Hebrides,  ii.  212. 
Longleys,  hamlet,  Cupar-Angus,  ii.  212. 
Longman,  hamlet,  Gamrie,  i.  462. 
Long   Man's  Grave,  in  Abernyte,  Perth,  i. 

31. 
Longniddey,   village,    Gladsmuir,   ii.   212, 

476. 
Longo,  isle,  Gairloch,  in  Ross  and  Cromarty, 

ii.  212. 
Longridge.     See  Langrigg. 
Longside,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  212. 
Longstone,  village,  Colinton,  ii.  213. 
Lonmat,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  213. 
Lordseairnie,  castle,  Moonzie,  ii.  277- 
Loretto,  Chapel  of,  Inveresk,  ii.  296. 
Lorn,  braes,  Kilninver  and  Kilnielford,  ii. 

56. 
Lorn,  Lynn  of,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  188. 
Lornty,  stream,  Blairgowrie,  i.  135. 
Lossie,  river,  Elgin,  i.  128,  263,  397,  398. 
Lossiemouth,  sea-port,    Elgin,  ii.   215— i. 

397. 
Loth,  parish,  Sutherland,  ii.  215. 
Lothian  Bridge,  Cramond,  i.  228. 
Lothian,  East.     See  Haddingtonshire. 
Lothian,  Mid.     See  Edinburghhire. 
Lothian,  West.     See  Linlithgoicshire. 
Loudoun,  or  Loudon,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  216 — 

i.  85. 
Louisburgh,  village,  Wick,  ii.  217- 
Loups,  waterfalls,  Kingoldrum,  ii.  78. 
Lower,  in  Forfar,  i.  439. 
Lowes,  Loch,  Balniaclellan,  i.  95. 
Lowes,  The,  loch,  Yarrow,  ii.  618. 
Lowland  Bay,  Jura,  i.  591. 
Lowries  Know,  Kettle,  ii.  16. 
Lows,  in  Caputh,  i.  177- 
Lowthers,  hills,  Durisdeer,  i.  342. 
Lowthertown,  village,  Domock,  ii.  217. 
Lowtis,  hill,  Newabbey,  ii.  303. 
Loy,  Loch,  Auldearn,  i.  82. 
Loyall  Hills,  in  Alyth,  Perth,  i.  42,  43. 
Luacragan,  river,  Ardchattan,  ii.  288. 
Luag,  loch,  Fowdis  Wester,  i.  453. 
Luath's  Stone,  in  Tough,  ii.  556. 
Lubnaig,  loch,  Perthshire,  ii.  366. 
Luce,  New,  parish,  Wigton,  ii.  217. 
Luce,  Old,  or  Glenluce,  parish,  Wigton,  ii. 

218. 
Luce,  old  parish,  Hoddam,  i.  543,  544. 
Luce,  river,  New  Luce,  ii.  217  ;  Old  Luce, 

218. 
Luckensford,  hamlet,  Inchinnan,  ii.  219. 
Lucklaw  Hill,  Logie,  ii.  204. 
Lucklawhill-Feus,  hamlet,  Logie,  ii.  219. 
Lud  Castle,  promontory,  Arbroath,  ii.  587. 
Lude,   ancient   parish,    Perthshire,   i.   132, 

133. 
Lude  House,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  133. 
Luffness,  seat,  in  Aberlady,  Haddington,  i. 

26. 
Lugar,  river,  Auchinleck,  i.  75  ;  Old  Cum- 
nock, 254. 
Lugate  Castle,  Stow,  ii.  504. 
Lugate  Water,  Stow  parish,  ii.  503. 
629 


Luggie,  river,  New  Monkland,  ii.  268. 

Luggiebank,  mansion,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 

Lugton,  river,  Kilwinning,  ii.  GG. 

Lugton,  village,  Dalkeith,  ii.  219. 

Luichart,  stream,  Urray,  ii.  585. 

Luin,  loch,  Glenshiel,  i.  510. 

Luina,  loch,  Kilchrenan  and  Dalavich,  ii. 

27. 
Luing,  isle,  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchattan,  ii. 

19. 
Lumphanan,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  219. 
Lumsden,  village,  Auchindoir,  i.  75. 
Lunan,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  220. 
Lunan,  burn,  Caputh,  i.  177. 
Lunan,  river,  Kirkden,  ii.  104 ;  Lunan,  220. 
Lunanhead,  village,  Forfar,  ii.  221. 
Lunasting,  Shetland.     See  Nesting. 
Luncarty,  ancient  parish,  Redgorton,  ii.  410. 
Lunderston,  bay,  Innerkip,  i.  561. 
Lundie,  hill,  Strickathrow,  ii.  516. 
Lundie,  lake,  Golspie,  i.  511. 
Lundie  and  Fowlis,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  221. 
Lundie  House,  Liff  and  Benvie,  ii.  179. 
Luudin,  estate,  Largo,  ii.  149,  150. 
Lundin,  Standing  Stones  of,  Largo,  ii.  222. 
Lundinmill,  village,  Largo,  ii.  222. 
Lundis,  farm,  Newabbey,  ii.  304. 
Lunga,  isle,  Argyll,  ii.  222. 
Lunnafrith,  sound,  Yell,  ii.  619. 
Lurg,  in  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Lurg,  lands,  Tulliallan,  ii.  562. 
Lurg,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58. 
Lurgie  Craigs,  in  Stitchell  and  Hume,  ii. 

498. 
Lurky,  lake,  Parton,  ii.  347. 
Luscar,  lands,  Carnock,  i.  184. 
Lusragan,  river,  Ardchattan,  ii.  288. 
Luss,  parish,  Dumbarton,  ii.  222 — i.  157. 
Lussa,  stream,  Torosay,  ii.  551. 
Lustielaw,  in  Arngask,  i.  71. 
Luther,  river,  Fordoun,  i.  436. 
Luthermuir,  village,  Marykirk,  ii.  223. 
Luthrie,  village,  Creieh,  ii.  223— i.  232. 
Lybster,  village,  Caithness,  ii.  223— ii.  155. 
Lybster,  village,  Reay,  ii.  410. 
Lydoch,  loch,  Perthshire,  ii.  365. 
Lynchat,  village,  Alvie,  ii.  224. 
Lyndemus  Hill,  Flisk,  i.  433. 
Lyne,  river,  Peebles,  ii.  350. 
Lyne,  stream,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 
Lyne  and  Megget,  parish,  Peebles,  ii.  224. 
Lynedoch  House,  Methven,  ii.  251,  252. 
Lynevilg,  Rothiemurchus,  ii.  436. 
Lynturk,  estate,  Leochel  and  Cushnie,  ii.  166, 

167. 
Lynviulg,  Alvie,  Inverness,  i.  42. 
Lyon,  castle,  Borrowstouiiness,  i.  144. 
Lyon,  loch,  Fortingal,  i.  448. 
Lyon,  river,  Glenlyon,  i.  507. 

M 

Maam-an-Tuirc,  mountain,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Maarburn,  rivulet,  Durisdeer,  i.  342. 
Mabery,  loch,  Penninghame,  ii.  354. 
Mabiery,  loch,  Colmonell,  i.  213. 
Mc.  Arthur's  Head,  hill,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 
Mc.  Culloch's  Castle,  Kirkbean,  ii.  96. 
Mc.  Larty,  isle,  Craignish,  i.  224. 
Mc.  Leod's  Tables,  Duirinish,  i.  300. 
Mc.  Merry,  village,  Gladsmuir,  i.  476. 
Mc.  Niven,  isle,  Craignish,  i.  224. 


M'Question,  in  Tynron,  ii.  570. 

Mac  Alister,  bay,  Torosay,  ii.  551. 

Maebeth's  Stone,  Lumphanan,  ii.  219. 

Macbeth's  Stone,  Meigle,  ii.  243. 

MACDUFF,  burgh,  Banff,  ii.  225— i.  102, 
103. 

Macduff's  Cave,  Kilconquhar,  ii.  29. 

Macduff's  Cross,  Newburgh,  ii.  308. 

Machan,  West,  lands,  Larkhall,  ii.  152. 

Machanshire,  old  parish,  Lanark,  i.  269. 

Machany,  river,  Blackford,  i.  131. 

Machar,  New,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  225 — 
i.  21. 

Machar,  Old.     See  Aberdeen,  Old. 

Maehony,  river,  Muthill,  ii.  296. 

Machray,  bay,  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 

Machrihanish,  bay,  Campbelltown,  i.  173. 

Machririoeh,  bay,  Southend,  ii.  476. 

Machry-Kill,  in  Dailly,  i.  260. 

Macinrie,  loch,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  387- 

Mackinnon's  Cave,  Staffa,  ii.  483. 

Mackintosh,  lands,  Moy  and  Dalrossie,  In- 
verness, ii.  287. 

Macmillan's  Tower,  North  Knapdale,  Ar- 
gyllshire, ii.  134. 

Macute's-Green,  in  Lesmahago,  county  of 
Lanark,  i.  1. 

Madderty,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  226— i.  300. 

Madderty,  Castle  of,  Muthill,  ii.  297. 

Maddiston,  village,  Muiravonside,  ii.  226. 

Maddy,  Loch,  North  Uist,  ii.  562,  574, 
575. 

Madoes,  St.,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  227. 

Madras  College.     See  Andrew's,  St. 

Maebearie,  loch,  Kirkowan,  ii.  121. 

Maedie,  loch,  Tongue,  ii.  548. 

Magbiehill,  in  New  lands  parish,  ii.  311. 

Magdalen  Fields,  Berwick,  i.  124,  125. 

Magdalene  Bridge,  Edinburgh,  i.  297- 

Maghaig,  loch,  Kilmadock,  ii.  38. 

Magirdum,  Newburgh,  ii.  308. 

Magnus  Muir,  near  St.  Andrew's,  i.  46. 

Magnus',  St.,  Bay,  Shetland,  ii.  323. 

Maich,  stream,  Kilbirnie,  ii.  18. 

Maiden,  rock,  St.  Andrew's,  i.  48. 

Maiden-Bridge,  Newbattle,  ii.  305. 

Maiden  Bower,  in  Dumfries,  i.  307. 

Maiden  Castle,  Collessie,  i.  213. 

Maiden  Castle,  Markinch,  ii.  232. 

Maiden  Paps,  Caithness,  i.  166. 

Maiden-Skeery',  isle,  Shetland,  ii.  228,  323. 

Maiden  Stone,  rock,  Ayton,  i.  90. 

Maik's,  St.,  Well,  Drumoak,  i.  294. 

Main  Castle,  in  Galston,  i.  461. 

Mainland  Isle,  Shetland,  ii.  228. 

Mains,  house,  Chirnside,  i.  197. 

Mains,  lands,  Kirkliston,  ii.  109. 

Mains  and  Strathmartine,  parish,  Forfar, 
ii.  228. 

Mains  Castle,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 

Mains  of  Dalhousie,  Edinburgh,  i.  207. 

Mains  of  Errol,  hamlet,  Errol,  ii.  229. 

Mains  of  Morton,  Morton  parish,  ii.  281. 

Maisly,  Keith,  ii.  4. 

Maisterton,  ancient  parish,  Newbattle,  ii. 
305. 

Makerstoun,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  229. 

Malleny,  seat,  Currie,  i.  258. 

Mallore  Hills,  Ardchattan,  ii.  288. 

Maltan  Walls,  in  Anerum,  Roxburgh,  i.  44. 

Malzie  Water,  Mochrum,  ii.  260. 

Mamore,  farm,  Roseneath,  ii.  428. 

Manar,  Inverury,  i.  581. 


INDEX. 


Manderston,  house,  Dunse,  i.  340. 
Manor,  parish,  Peebles,  ii.  229. 
Manoi'head,  Manor  parish,  ii.  230. 
Mauquhill,  farm,  Dairy,  i.  268. 
Mansfield,  village,  New  Cumnock,  ii.  230. 
Manslaughter  Law,  Longibrmacus  and  Ellim, 

ii.  211. 
Manuel,  stream,  Muiravonside,  ii.  290. 
Manuel  Priory,  Muiravonside,  ii.  290. 
Manxman's  Lake,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  101. 
Maole-Buidhe,  hill,  Kirkmichael  aaid  Culli- 

cuddeu,  ii.  118. 
March  of  Lunanbank,  hamlet,  Inverkeillor, 

ii.  230. 
Marchfarm,  hamlet,  Kirkinner,  ii.  230. 
Marchmont  House,  Polwarth,  ii.  379— i.  521. 
Marchwell,  in  Glencross,  i.  504. 
Marcus,  house,  Tannadice,  ii.  528. 
Maree,  loch,  Gairloch,  i.  457,  458. 
Mareg,  harbour,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 
Marestone,  hamlet,  Aberlemno  and  Res- 

cobie,  ii.  230. 
Margaret's,  St.,  Convent,  Morningside,  ii. 

280. 
Margaret's,  St.,  Hope,  Fifeshire,  i.  322. 
Map.garet's,  St.,  Hope,  village,  South  Ro- 

naldshay,  Orkney,  ii.  231,  425. 
Marischal  College.     See  Aberdeen. 
Mark,  stream,  Lochlee,  ii.  196. 
Market  Hill,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  22. 
Markinch,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  231. 
Markland  Well,  Lochrutton,  ii.  199. 
Markle,  lands,  Prestonkirk,  ii.  393. 
Marlee  House,  Lethendy,  and  Kinloch,  ii. 

173. 
Marlefield  House,  Eckford,  i.  358. 
Marnoch,  parish,  Banff,  ii.  232. 
Marr,  district,  Aberdeen,  i.  229,  ii.  253. 
Marr  Lodge,  in  Crathie,  i.  229. 
Martin,  isle,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  233. 
Martin,    St.,   extinct   parish,   Kirkmichael 

and  Cullicudden,  ii.  118. 
Martin's,  St.,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  233. 
Martinham,  lake,  Dalrymple,  i.  268. 
Martyrs,  bay,  Iona,  i.  583. 
Martyrs,  district,  Paisley,  ii.  343. 
Mary,  loch,  in  Alness,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 

i.  39. 
Mary,  St.     See  South  Eonaldshay,  Orkney. 
Mary,  St.,  lake,  Yarrow,  ii.  618. 
Mary,  St.,  lands,  Renfrew  parish,  ii.  414. 
.Mary's,   St.,   hamlet,   Holm   and   Paplay, 

Orkney,  ii.  234. 
-Mary's,  St.,  lake,  Tobermory,  ii.  546. 
Mary's,  St.,  well,  Ladykirk,  ii.  139. 
Mary's,  St.,  College.     See  Andrew's,  St. 
Mary's,  St.,  Hill,  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 
Mary's,  St.,  island,  Lewis,  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, ii.  461. 
Mary's,  St.,  Isle,  seat,  Kirkcudbright, ii.  102. 
Maryburgh,  Inverness.     See  Fort-William. 
M  vuyburoii,  hamlet,  Cleish,  ii.  234. 
Maryburgh,  village,  Fodderty,  ii.  234— i. 

435. 
Makyculter,  parish,  Kincardine,  ii.  234. 
Makyhill,  district,  near  Glasgow,  ii.  235. 
Mahykirk,  parish,  Kincardine,  ii.  235— ii. 

208. 
Maryporfcj  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  1 14. 
Marytown,     parish,    Forfar,     ii.     236— i. 

222. 
Ma  in  town,  village,  Forgan,  ii.  236. 
Muivtown,  village,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  236. 
630 


Marywell,  spring,  Marytown,  ii.  236. 

Marywell,  village,  St.Vigean's,  ii.  237,587. 

Maskersa,  in  Hutton  and  Corrie,  i.  554. 

Massau,  stream,  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  337. 

Mastertown,  village,  Dunfermline,  ii.  237- 

Mathers,  Kaim  of,  St.  Cyrus,  i.  259. 

Mathers,  Milton  of,  village,  St.  Cyrus,  ii.  256. 

Mauchline,  town,  Ayr,  ii.  237,  291. 

Mauldslie,  in  Carluke,  i.  180. 

Maul-Elan- An,  isles,  Sutherland,  ii.  238. 

Maulside,  in  Dairy,  i.  267. 

Maum-Soule,  mountain,  Kilmorack,  ii.  49. 

Maunderlea,  hill,  Alvah,  Banff,  i.  40. 

Mavine,  isthmus,  Northmavine,   Shetland, 
ii.  323. 

Mavisbank  House,  Lasswade,  ii.  153,  154. 

Maxton,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  238. 

Maxwell,  parish,  Kelso,  ii.  239. 

Maxwellheugh,  village,    Kelso,  ii.  239 — 
ii.  9. 

Maxwellton,  village,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  239 
— ii.  23. 

Maxwellton  House,  in  Glencairn,  i.  502. 

Maxwelltown,   burgh,   Kirkcudbright,  ii. 

239. 
May,  island,  Fife,  ii.  240. 

May,  river,  Forgandenny,  i.  442  ;    Forte- 

viot,  447. 
MAYBOLE,  town,  Ayr,  ii.  240. 

Mayeu  House,  Rothiemay,  ii.  435. 
Meadowbank,   seat,  Kirknewton  and  East 
Calder,  ii.  120. 

Meadowhead,  in  Dalziel,  i.  272. 
Meadow-Head,  mine,  Leadhills,  ii.  159. 
Meadowhill,  lands,  Larkhall,  ii.  152. 
Meadowmill,  village,  Tranent,  ii.  241,  558, 

559. 
Mealfuarvonie,  mountain,  Urquhart,  ii.  582. 
Meal-Horn,  mountain,  Eddrachillis,  i.  360. 
Meallmeadhonach,   mountain,   Durness,    i. 

342. 
Mearns,  hill,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  132. 
Mearns,  parish,  Renfrew,  ii.  242. 
Mearns,  The.     See  Kincardineshire. 
Meathie,  ancient  parish,  Inverarity,  i.  565. 
Meckphin,  hamlet,  Methven,  ii.  242. 
Medwin,  river,  Libberton,  ii.  1 76. 
Medwin,  North,  river,  Libberton,  ii.  176. 
Medwin-Bank,  Dunsyre,  i.  341 . 
Meft,  farm,  Urquhart,  ii.  581. 
Megdale,  lands,  Westerkirk,  ii.  599. 
Megget,  Peebles.     See  Lyne. 
Megget,  river,  Westerkirk,  ii.  598. 
Megginch  Castle,  Perthshire,  ii.  367. 
Meig,  stream,  Contin,  i.  216. 
Meigle,  hill,  Galashiels,  i.  459. 
Mf.igle,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  242. 
Meikle,  river,  Loehbroom,  ii.  192. 
Meikleben,  hill,  Kilsyth,  ii.  62. 
Meikle-Cese,  hill,  Longformacus  ami  Ellim, 

ii.  212. 
Meikle  Ferry,  Sutherland,  i.  233. 
Meiklefolla,  in  Fyvie,  i.  457. 
Meiklehill,  mansion,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 
Meikleour,  village,  Caputh,  ii.  243. 
Meikleour  House,  in  Caputh,  i.  177. 
Meikleriggs,  Paisley,  ii.  342. 
Meikle- Wardhouse,  lands,  Insch,  i.  563. 
Meiklewarthill,  hamlet,  Rayne,  ii.  243, 

408. 
Meiklewood,  house,  Stirling,  i.  463. 
Meikly,  loch,  Urquhart  and  Glenmorriston, 
ii.  582,  583. 


Mein,  river,  Middlebie,  ii.  252. 

Meinfoot,  Middlebie,  ii.  252. 

Melbie  House,  Vaila,  Walls,  ii.  586. 

Melbost,  in  Stornoway,  Lewis,  ii.  503. 

Meldrum,  burgh,  Aberdeen,  ii.  243. 

Meldrum  Tower,  in  Fyvie,  i.  457. 

Melford,  loch,  Kilninver  and  Kilmelford  ii 
56. 

Melford,  seat,  Kilninver  and  Kilmelford,  ii 
57. 

Melgum,  river,  Kingoldrum,  ii.  78  ;  Lin- 
trathen,  187. 

Melgund,  castle,  in  Aberlemno,  Forfar,  i.  27. 

Melista,  in  Uig,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  574. 

Mellerstain,  village,  Earlstoun,  ii.  244— 
i.  352. 

Melness,  lands,  Tongue,  ii.  549,  550. 

MELROSE,  town,  Roxburgh,  ii.  244. 

Melrose,  Old,  Melrose,  ii.  244. 

Melrose  Head,  Gamrie,  Banff,  i.  461. 

Melsetter,  lands,  Walls  and  Sandness,ii.  589. 

Melshach,  hill,  Kinnethmont,  ii.  87. 

Melundy,  hill,  Dallas,  i.  263. 

Melvich,  village,  Reay,  ii.  247. 

Melville,  ancient  parish,  Lasswade,  ii.  153. 

Melville,  seat,  Monimail,  ii.  265— i.  213. 

Melville  Castle,  Lasswade,  ii.  153. 

Menaway,  hills,  Keig,  ii.  1. 

Menmuir,  parish,  Forfar,  ii,  247. 

Menstrie,  village,  Logie,  Clackmannan,  ii. 
248. 

Menzies,  castle,  Weem,  ii.  595,  596. 

Meuzion,  farm,  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  568. 

Merchants,  The,  rocks,  Southend,  ii.  477. 

Merchiston,  castle,  Morningside,  ii.  280. 

Merchiston,  New,  Falkirk,  ii.  158. 

Merkland,  cross,  Kirkpatrick-Flemino-  ii 
123. 

Merkland,  loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 

Merkland,  mansion,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 

Merryston,  village,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  248. 

Merryston,  West,  village,  Old  Monkland 
ii.  248. 

Merse,  Berwickshire,  i.  126. 

Mersington,  fortress,  Eccles,  i.  355. 

Merton  Hall,  Penninghame,  ii.  355. 

Mertoun,  parish,  Berwick,  ii.  248. 

Mess  John's  Well,  in  Aberdour,  Aberdeen 
i.  23. 

Methelnie,  Aberdeen.     See  Meldrum. 

Methill,  district,  Fife,  ii.  249,  597,  598. 

Methill,  hill,  Peterhead,  ii.  370. 

Methlick,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  249. 

Methven,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  250. 

Mey,  East  and  West,  townships,  Caith- 
ness, ii.  252 — i.  1 75. 

Meyrick,  hill,  Minnigaff,  ii.  257. 

Mhiefail,  Loch,  in  Harris,  ii.  517. 

Mhor,  promontory,  Loehbroom,  ii.  192. 

Mid  or  Middle  Calder.  See  Calder,  Mid. 
And  all  places  having  a  similar  distinguish- 
ing prefix  will  be  found  under  the  proper 
name. 

Midbrake,  house,  Fetlar  and  North  Yell,  i. 
424. 

Middle  Blelock.     See  Bleloclc,  Middle. 

Middlebie,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  252. 

Middlefield,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 

Middlefield,  lands,  Langton,  ii.  149. 

Middlefoodie,  burn,  Dairsie,  i.  260. 

Middleton,  Edinburghshire,  i.  233. 

Middleton,  hamlet,  Orwell,  ii.  253. 

Middleton,  mansion,  Kirkden,  ii.  105. 


INDEX. 


Middleton  and  North  Middleton,  villages, 
Borthwick,  ii.  253. 

Middleton,  North  and  South,  burns,  Borth- 
wick, i.  145. 

Middleton  Hall,  Uphall,  ii.  580. 

Middleton  House,  Borthwick,  i.  145. 

Midfield,  in  Inveresk,  i.  570. 

Midgarth,  Holm  of,  in  Stronsay,  i.  545. 

Mid  Hills,  Killin,  ii.  37. 

Midhope  House,  seat,  in  Abercorn,  Linlith- 
gow, i.  4. 

Midland,  hill,  Orphir,  ii.  333. 

Midlem,  village,  Bowden,  ii.  253 — i.  149, 
150. 

Midmar,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  253. 

Mid-Muir,  hills,  Kilchrenan  and  Dalavich, 
ii.  27. 

Midshiels,  house,  Wilton,  ii.  615. 

Midtown,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  202. 

Migdol,  loch,  Criech,  i.  234. 

Miglo,  stream,  Strathmiglo,  ii.  514. 

Migvie,  Aberdeen.     See  Tarland,  ii.  254. 

Milbay,  village,  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchattan, 
ii.  254. 

Milburn  works,  Bonhill,  i.  141. 

Milburn  Tower,  Ratho,  ii.  404. 

Milbuy  hill,  Avoch,  i.  83. 

Mildovan,  lands,  Cardross,  i.  178. 

Mildriggen,  stream,  Kirkinner,  ii.  107. 

Mile-End,  village,  suburb  of  Glasgow,   ii. 
254. 

Milheugh,  Blantyre,  i.  136. 

Milk,  Water  of,  St.  Mungo,  ii.  293. 

Mill,  Loch,  Lochmaben,  ii.  198. 

Mill,  Loch,  Newburgh,  ii.  308. 

Mill,  West,  village,  Cockpen,  ii.  254. 

Millarston,  village,  Paisley,  ii.  254. 

Mill  Bank,  mansion,  St.  Mungo,  ii.  293. 

Millbank,  near  Eyemouth,  i.  410. 

Millbank,  mansion,  Morningside,  ii.  280. 

Millbank,  seat,  St.  Vigean's,  ii.  587. 

Mill  Bay,  in  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 

Millbay,  village,  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchat- 
tan, ii.  20. 

Millbrake,  in  Old  Deer,  i.  276. 

Millbrex,  district,   Aberdeen,  ii.   254— i. 
457. 

Millbridge,  hamlet,  Cathcart,  ii.  254. 

Mill-Burn,  in  Gairsay,  i.  458. 

Millburn,  in  Tarbolton,  Ayr,  ii.  530. 

Millburn,  mansion,  Dalserf,  i.  270. 

Millburn,  stream,  Dirleton,  i.  282. 

Mill-Dam,  loch,  Gigha  and  Cara,  i.  472. 

Mill-Danes,  Kinglassie,  ii.  78- 

Millden,  Lochlee,  ii.  197- 

Millearne,  seat,  Trinity-Gask,  i.  469. 

Millenwood  Fell,  Roxburghshire,  ii.  440. 

Millerhill,  Easter  and  Wester,  villages, 
Newton,  ii.  254. 

Mille-Rinidh,  mountain,  Eddrachillis,  i.  360. 

Miller's  Acre,  in  Forteviot,  i.  447- 

Millerston,  village,  suburbs  of  Glasgow,  ii. 
255. 

Millerton  Hill,  Aytou,  i.  90. 

Millfield,  hamlet,  Inverkeillor,  ii.  255. 

Millfield,  seat,  Polmont,  ii.  379. 

Mill  Glen,  in  Tillicoultry,  ii.  540. 

Millguy,  Stirling.     See  Milngavle. 

Mill-Hall,  in  Eaglesham,  i.  350. 

Millhead,  estate,  Kirkmahoe,  ii.  112. 

Millheugh,  bridge,  Hamilton,  i.  534. 

Millheugh,  village,  Dalserf,  ii.  255. 

Mill  Hill,  Carmichael,  i.  181. 
631 


Mill-Hill,  farm,  Gartly,  i.  466. 

Milligs,  village,  Row  parish,  ii.  255,  438. 

Milliken  House,  Kilbarchan,  ii.  17. 

Mill-Lead,  Tibbermore,  ii.  539. 

Mill  of  Banff,  i.  103. 

Mill  of  Carden,  Premnay,  ii.  392. 

Mill  of  Halden,  village,  Bonhill,  ii.  254. 

Millport,  village,  Great  Cumbray,  ii.  255 — 

i.  251. 
Mills  of  Forth,  village,  Kinross,  ii.  255. 
Milltown,  village,  Rothiemay,  ii.  255,  435. 
Milltown  of  Auchterhouse,  Forfar,  i.  80. 
Millwell,  in  Glassford,  i.  500. 
Milna  Craig,  bridge,  Glenisla,  i.  506. 
Milnathort,   village,   Kinross,   ii.  255 — ii. 

89,  334. 
Milne-Graden,  in  Coldingham,  i.  210. 
Milngavie,  village,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  255. 
Milnhaugh,  Moneydie,  ii.  263. 
Milnhead,  estate,  Kirkmahoe,  ii.  112. 
Milnhouse,  village,  in  Applegarth,  i.  55. 
Milnmount  House,  Kilmuir  Easter,  ii.  54. 
Milntown,  hamlet,  Urquhart,  ii.  583. 
Milntown,  village,  Kilmuir  Easter,  ii.  256. 
Milrig,  mansion,  Ricearton,  ii.  421. 
Milton,  Dunipace.     See  Herbertshire. 
Milton,  lake,  Urr,  ii.  585. 
Milton,  suburbs  of  Glasgow,  district,  ii.  256. 
Milton,  village,  Campsie,  ii.  256. 
Milton,  village,  Glammis,  ii.  256. 
Milton,  village,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  256 — i. 

304. 
Milton,  village,  St.  Cyrus,  ii.  256. 
Milton-Brodie,  house,  in  Alves,  Elgin,  i.  41. 
Milton  House,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59. 
Milton-Lockhart,  mansion,  Carluke,  i.  180. 
Milton-Mill,  hamlet,  Gleneross,  i.  504. 
Milton  of  Balgonie,  village,  Fife,  ii.  256. 
Milton  of  Mathers,   village,  St.  Cyrus,  ii. 

256— i.  258. 
Miltown,  village,  Auchterarder,  ii.  472. 
Miltown,  village,  Jura,  i.  591. 
Miltown,  village,  Killiernan,  ii.  36. 
Minchmoor,  hill,  Traquair,  ii.  560. 
Minden  Cottage,  Peebles,  ii.  349. 
Mindernal,  hill,  Durris,  i.  344. 
Mindork,  castle,  Kirkowan,  ii.  122. 
Mindrum,  farm,  Yetholm,  ii.  622. 
Minefield,  mansion,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii. 

190. 
Mine-house,  Logie,  ii.  205. 
Mingala,  isle,  Barra,  Inverness,  ii.  257— i. 

107. 

Mingary,  castle,  in  Ardnamurchan,  i.  66. 
Minginish,  district,  Bracadale,  i.  151. 
Minister's  Well,  Roseneath,  ii.  427. 
Minn,  in  Sandsting  and  Aithsting,  ii.  450. 
Minnick,  stream,  Sanquhar,  ii.  454. 
Minnigaff,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  257. 
Minnoch,  stream,  Barr,  i.  106. 
Minnyhive,  village,   Dumfries,   ii.  258 — i. 

502. 
Mintlaw,  village,  Longside,  ii.  258 — ii.  213. 
Minto,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  258. 
Mirroch  Bay,  Portpatrick,  ii.  388. 
Misery,  Mount,  Kilmaronock,  ii.  44. 
Mishnish,  lands,  Tobermory,  ii.  546. 
Misty  Law,  hill,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  201. 
Moan,  loch,  Kirkmabreck,  ii.  111. 
Moat,  in  Ochiltree  parish,  ii.  327. 
Moat,  The,  in  Glencairn,  i.  502. 
Moat,  The,  in  Tyrie,  Aberdeen,  ii.  571. 
Moat  Brae,  Dumfries,  i.  308. 


Mochrum,  hill,  Kirkoswald,  ii.  120. 

Mochrum,  parish,  Wigton,  ii.  259. 

Mochrum  Fell,  Parton,  ii.  347. 

MOFFAT,  parish,  Dumfries  and  Lanark,  ii. 
260. 

Moffat,  Easter,  residence,  i.  119. 

Moffat  Mills,  Clarkston,  i.  200. 

Moffat,  Wester,  residence,  New  Monkland, 
ii.  268. 

Moidart,  district,  Argyll,  i.  64,  65,  60. 

Moir,  loch,  Eddrachillis,  i.  360. 

Molas,  isle,  Bute,  ii.  141. 

Mollance,  seat,  Crossmichael,  i.  96,  242. 

Mollensburn,  village,  Cadder,  ii.  261. 

Molmont,  hill,  New  Galloway,  i.  460,  461. 

Mouadlia,  hills,  Laggan,  ii.  139. 

Monaebrugh,  Kilsyth,  ii.  61. 

Monaltrie  House,  Glenmuick,  i.  508. 

Monaltry,  lands,  Crathie,  i.  229. 

Monan's,  St.,  fishing-town,  Fife,  ii.  2€2— i.  5. 

Monar,  loch,  Kilmorack,  ii.  49. 

Monboddo,  mansion,  Fordoun,  i.  437- 

Moncrieffe,  isle,  Kinnoull,  ii.  88. 

Moncrieffe,     old    chapelry,    and    mansion, 
Perth,  i.  312,  313. 

Moncur,  castle,  Inchture,  i.  561. 

Moness,  falls,  near  Aberfeldy,  Perth,  i.  24. 

Moness,  house,  Dull,  i.  301. 

Moneydie,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  262. 

Money  Point,  in  Stoneykirk,  ii.  501. 

Monfode,  Ardrossan,  Ayr,  i.  68. 

Moniack,  mansion,  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 

Monifieth,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  263. 

Monikie,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  264. 

Monbiail,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  265. 

Monivaird  and  Strowan,  pai'ish,  Perth,  ii. 
266. 

Monk-Callie,  lands,  Bendochy,  i.  117- 

Monkcastle,  residence,  Kilwinning,  ii.  67. 

Monk-Dyke,  lands,  Renfrew  parish,  ii.  414. 

Monkeigie  and  Kinkell,  Aberdeen.     See 
Keith-Hall. 

Monkland,  ancient  name  for  Rerwick,  ii.  4 16. 
Monkland,  New  or  East,  parish,  Lanark, 

ii.  267. 
Monkland,  Old,  parish,  Lanark,  ii.  269. 
Monklaw,  in  Jedburgh,  i.  588. 
Monk- Mire,  lands,  Bendochy,  i.  117- 
Monkrigg,  house,  Haddington,  i.  528. 
Monks'  Croft,  Hassendean,  i.  537. 
Monk's  House,  Auskerry,  Orkney,  i.  83. 
Monkstadt,  Kilmuir,  ii.  53. 
Monkston,  village,  Collessie,  ii.  270. 
Monk's  Well,  Ladykirk,  ii.  139. 
Monkton  and  Pbestwick,  parish,  Ayr,  U. 

270. 
Monktonhall,  village,  Inveresk,  ii.  271 — i. 

570. 
Monkton  House,  Inveresk,  ii.  271. 
Monkton-Mains,  seat,  Monkton  and  Prest- 

wick,  ii.  271. 
Monqohitter,  pai'ish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  271. 
Monreith  House,  Mochrum,  ii.  260. 
Monrieth,  or  Monreith,  village,  Glasser- 

ton,  ii.  272. 
Mons,  The,  hill,  Dalmeny,  i.  265. 
Montblairy  House,  in  Alvah,  Banff,  i.  41. 
Montcoffer,  woods,  Banff,  i.  102. 
Montcoffer  House,  King-Edward  parish,  ii. 

75. 
Monteith,  district,  Stirling,  i.  463. 
Monteith,  Port  of.     See  Port  of  Monteith. 
Monteithmont  Muir,  in  Farnell,  i.  417- 


INDEX. 


Monteviot  House,  Grafting,  i.  226. 
Montgoinerie  House,  Tarbolton,  ii.  530. 
Monthrewmont,  forest,  Kinnell,  ii.  85. 
Montkeggie.     See  JZeith-Hall. 
Montlokowre,  hill,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  1 13. 
Montrave,  mansion,  Seoonie,  ii.  458. 
MONTROSE,  burgh,  Forfar,  ii.  272. 
Montrose,  Old,  Marytown,  ii.  236. 
Montrose's  Dyke,  Banchory-Ternan,  i.  100. 
Monwig,  lake,  in  Aberdour,  Aberdeen,  i.  22. 
Montmusk,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  274. 
Monynut,  stream,  Innerwick,  i.  562. 
Monzie,  burn,  Leuchars,  ii.  174. 
Monzie,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  276. 
Monzievaird,  Perthshire.     See  Monimird. 
Moodiesburn,  village,  Cadder,  ii.  277. 
Moodlaw,  lake,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 
Moonzie,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  277. 
Moorfoot  Hills,  Edinburghshire,  i.  391. 
Moorland,  Luss,  ii.  223. 
Moral,  waterfall,  Urquhart,  ii.  582. 
Morangie,  burn,  Tain,  ii.  527. 
Moray,  county  of.     See  Elginshire. 
Mordington,  parish,  Berwick,  ii.  277. 
More,  loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
Morebattle  and  Mow,  parish,  Roxburgh, 

ii.  278— i.  358. 
Moredun,  hill,  Dunbarny,  i.  312. 
Moredun,  seat,  Liberton,  ii.  177,  178. 
Moreinsh,  Kenmore,  ii.  13. 
Morham,  parish,  Haddington,  ii.  279. 
Morinish  Castle,  Kilniuiau  and  Kilmore,  ii. 

55. 
Morir,  loch,  in  Ardnamurchan,  Argyll,  i. 

64,  65. 
Morir,  North,  in  Glenelg,  i.  64,  505,  506. 
Morir,  South,  district,  Argyll,  i.  64,  65,  66. 
Mormond,  hill,  Strichen,  ii.  515. 
Mormond,  village,  Aberdeen,  ii.  280. 
Mormond  House,  Rathen,  ii.  402. 
Morningside,  district,  Edinburgh,  ii.  280. 
Morphy,  St.  Cyrus,  i.  258,  259. 
Morriston,  stream,  Urquhart  and  Glenmor- 

riston,  ii.  582. 
Morthill,  height,  Olrick,  ii.  328. 
Morthwait,  lands,  Temple,  ii.  535. 
Mortimer's  Deep,  channel,  Fife,  i.  23. 
Mortlach,  parish,  Banff,  ii.  280— i.  19. 
Mortlich,  hill,  Coull,  i.  219. 
Morton,  estate,  Forgan,  i.  441. 
Morton,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  281 — i.  539. 
Morton  Hall,  Liberton,  ii.  177,  178. 
Morven,  hill,  Glenmuick,  Aberdeen,  i.  507. 
Morven,  mountain,  Latheron,  ii.  154. 
Morvern,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  282. 
Morvich,  hill,  Golspie,  i.  511. 
Moss,  Killearn,  ii.  35. 
Mossat,  stream,  Auehindoir,  i.  75. 
Mossbank,  house,  Delting,  i.  277. 
Mossburnford,  Jedburgh,  i.  587,  588. 
Mosscastle,  in  Crawfordjohn,  i.  231. 
Mossfennan,  house,  Broughton,  i.  156. 
Mossfield,  Alness,  i.  154. 
Moss- Flanders,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  387. 
Moss  House,  Govan,  i.  515. 
Mossknowe,  mansion,  Kirkpatrick-Fleming, 

ii.  124. 
Mosstodlach,  village,  Speymouth,  ii.  284. 
Moss  Tower,  Eckford,  i.  357,  358. 
Mosstowie,  vale,  Elgin,  i.  398. 
Mote  Hill,  Stirling,  ii.  490. 
Motherwell,  village,  Dalziel,  ii.  284. 
Motray,  river,  Kilmany,  ii.  41. 
632 


Moulin,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  284. 

Mounie,  lands,  Daviot,  i.  273. 

Mountains  Cross,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 

Mount  Blair.  See  Blair,  Mount.  And  all 
hills  hating  a  similar  prefix  will  be  also 
found  under  the  proper  name,  and  not  under 
the  head  Mount. 

Mount-Annan,  house,  Dumfries,  i.  52. 

Mount-Blow,  seat,  Old  Kilpatrick,  ii.  59,  60. 

Mount-Cyrus,  in  St.  Cyrus,  i.  259. 

Mountgerald,seat,Ross  andCromarty,  ii.  430. 

Mountgower,  Durris,  i.  344. 

Mountgreenan  House,  Kilwinning,  ii.  67- 

Mount-Hill,  Kirkurd,  ii.  128. 

Mount- Hill,  Monimail,  ii.  265. 

Mount-Lothian,  ancient  parish,  Penicuick, 
ii.  352. 

Mount-Melville,  house,  in  Cameron,  i.  172. 

Mount-Pleasant,  Newburgh,  Fife,  ii.  285. 

Mountquhanie,  Kilmany,  ii.  41. 

Mountstuart,  seat,  Kingarth,  ii.  74. 

Mount-Vernon,  mansion,  Crossbill,  i.  241. 

Mount-Vernon,  residence,  Liberton,  ii.  178. 

Mournack,  hill,  Stornoway,  Lewis,  ii.  502. 

Mourning  Well,  Tyrie,  ii.  571. 

Mousa,  isle,  Shetland,  ii.  285,  452. 

Mouss,  vale,  Lanark,  ii.  142. 

Mouswald,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  285. 

Mow,  Roxburgh.     See  Morebattle. 

Mowhaugh,  in  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  279. 

Mowick,  bay,  in  Fetlar,  i.  423. 

Moy,  Elgin.     See  Dyke  and  Mot/. 

Moy  and  Dalrossie,  parish,  Nairn  and  In- 
verness, ii.  286. 

Moyness,  old  castle,  Auldearn,  i.  82. 

Muchalls,  Fetteresso,  i.  426. 

Muck,  island,  Argyll,  ii.  287. 

Muck,  loch,  Dalmellington,  i.  264. 

Muckairn,  district,  Argyll,  ii.  288. 

Muckarsie,  Linn  of,  Forteviot,  i.  447. 

Muckart,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  288. 

Muckerach  Castle,  in  Cromdale,  i.  240. 

Mucklarie,  lands,  Dunkeld,  i.  330. 

Muckle-Burn,  in  Ardclach,  i.  63. 

Muckle  Ferry,  Dornoch,  i.  286. 

Muckle  Loch,  in  Slains  and  Forvie,  ii.  468. 

Muckle  Skerry,  Skerries,  Shetland,  ii.  466. 

Mueross,  St.  Andrew's,  Fife,  i.  45. 

Mudale,  stream,  Farr,  i.  418. 

Mugdock,  castle,  Strathblane,  ii.  510. 

Mugdock,  Loch,  Strathblane,  ii.  511. 

Mugdrum,  isle,  Abernethy,  Perth,  ii.  289, 
306. 

Muick,  loch,  Glenmuick,  i.  508. 

Muick,  stream,  in  Glenmuick,  i.  507. 

Muidhe-Bhlarie,  hill,  Edderton,  i.  359. 

Muilie,  loch,  Kilmorack,  ii.  49. 

Muiravonside,  parish,  Stirling,  ii.  289. 

Muirdrum,  village,  Panbride,  ii.  290. 

Muirdykes,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  203. 

Muirellis,  lands,  Gartly,  i.  466. 

Muirends,  Knocbbain,  ii.  137- 

Muiresk  House,  Turriff,  ii.  567- 

Muirhead,  hamlet,  Kettle,  ii.  290. 

Muirhead,  hamlet,  Liff,  Benvie,  and  Inver- 
gowrie,  ii.  290. 

Muirhead,  village,  Cadder,  ii.  290. 

Muir  House,  Cramoud,  i.  227- 

Muirhouse,  estate,  Ormiston,  ii.  331. 

Muirhouses,  village,  Carriden,  ii.  290. 

Muirkirk,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  291. 

Muir  Moss,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  130. 

Muirness,  house,  Cambusnethan,  i.  171. 


Muir  of  Leckan,  in  Kilchrenan  and  Dalavich, 

ii.  27. 
Muirsheil,  mansion,  Lochwinnoch,  ii.  202. 
Muirside,  hamlet,  Kinnell,  ii.  85. 
Muirside,  hamlet,  Logie-Pert,  ii.  292. 
Muirtown,  house,  Inverness,  i.  577- 
Muirtown-  Green,  Inverness,  i.  578. 
Muiry  Hall,  lands,  Queensferry,  ii.  397. 
Mulbuy,  hill,  Killiernan,  ii.  36. 
Muldren,  estate,  West  Calder,  i.  167. 
MULL,  Isle  of,  Argyll,  ii.  292. 
Mull  head,  Deerness,  i.  277. 
Mull  of  Cantyre,  Southend,  ii.  476,  477- 
Mull  of  Cara,  in  Gigha  and  Cara,  i.  472. 
Mull  of  Galloway,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  1 13. 
Mull  of  Logan,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Mull  of  Papa,  Orkney,  ii.  346. 
Mullion,  barony,  Redgorton,  ii.  411. 
Mulloch,  bay,  Rerwick,  ii.  416. 
Mulroy,  in  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  48. 
Multivie,  in  Alness,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  i. 

39. 
Muncraig  Head,  Borgue,  i.  142. 
Mundole,  farm,  Forres,  i.  445. 
Muuess,  in  Unst,  Shetland,  ii.  579. 
Mungo,  St.,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  293. 
Mungo's,  St.,  Well,  Penicuick,  ii.  352. 
Munloehy,  bay,  Avoch,  i.  83,  84. 
Munlochy,  village,  Knockbain,  ii.  294 — ii. 

137. 
Munnock,  burn,  Ardrossan,  Ayr,  i.  68. 
Muolbuie,  ridge,  Urquhart,  ii.  584. 
Murdoch,  Loch,  Tinwald,  ii.  543. 
Murdostown,  estate,  Shotts,  i.  119. 
Murie,  lands,  Errol,  i.  405. 
Murieston,  stream,  Calder,  i.  166,  167. 
Murieston,  Easter,  lands,  i.  167. 
Murkle,  bay,  Olrick,  ii.  328. 
Murkle  House,  Thurso,  ii.  539. 
Murray's  Hall,  hill,  Kinnoull,  ii.  88. 
Murray's  Hall,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320. 
Murraythwaite,  Dumfriesshire,  i.  309. 
Murroch,  glen,  Dumbarton,  i.  303. 
Murroes,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  294. 
Murthly,  district,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 
Murtle,  rivulet,  Peterculter,  ii.  367. 
Murtle  House,  Peterculter,  ii.  368. 
Musa,  isle,  Shetland.     See  Mousa. 
Musdale,  isle,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189. 
Muses,  Temple  of  the,  Mertoun,  ii.  249. 
MUSSELBURGH,  burgh,  Edinburgh,  ii. 

294. 
Mute  Hill,  in  Caputh.  i.  177- 
Muthili.,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  296. 
Mutiny  Stones,  Longformacus  and  Ellim,  ii. 

211. 
Mutton-Brae,  Free  churches,  Aberdeen,  i. 

17. 

Mylnefield,  lands,  Longforgan,  ii.  210,  211. 
Myothill,  in  Denny,  i.  278. 
Myre,  in  Moonzie  parish,  ii.  277- 
Myres  Castle,  seat,  Auchtermuchty,  i.  81. 
Myreside,  hamlet,  Kettle,  ii.  297- 
Myrton  Cottage,  Mochrum,  ii.  260. 


N 


Nagana,  loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
NAIRN,  burgh,  county  of  Nairn,  ii.  298— i. 

64,  82. 
Nairn,  river,  Daviot,  i.  274. 
NAIRNSHIRE,  ii.  299. 


INDEX. 


Naluire,  loch,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 

Nanthorn,  in  Ednam,  i.  393. 

Naughton  House,  Balmerino,  i.  08. 

Naunt,  river  and  loeh,  Ardchattan,  ii.  288. 

Navar,  Forfar.     See  Lethnot. 

Naver,  river  and  loch,  Farr,  i.  418. 

Naw,  loeh,  Leswalt,  ii.  172. 

Neartay,  isle,  Harris,  Inverness,  ii.  299. 

Necropolis,  Glasgow,  i.  490. 

Needle's  Eye,  in  Colvend,  i.  215. 

Needle's  Eye,  Logie-Buchan,  ii.  200. 

Neidpath,  castle,  Peebles,  ii.  348,  349. 

Neilston,  parish,  Renfrew,  ii.  299. 

Nell,  loch,  Kilmore  and  Kilbride,  ii.  51. 

Nemphlar,  Lanark,  ii.  144. 

Nenthorn,  parish,  Berwick,  ii.  301 . 

Nerston,  hamlet,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  23. 

Ness,  Ross  and  Cromarty.     See  Cross. 

Ness,  island,  Shetland,  ii.  302 — i.  153. 

Ness,  river,  Inverness,  i.  577- 

Ness  Bay,  North  Ronaldshay,  Orkney, ii.  424'. 

Ness,  Glen  of,  Dalmellington,  i.  264. 

Ness,  Loch,  Boleskine,  i.  139. 

Nesting,  Lunasting,  and  Whalsay,  parish, 
Shetland,  ii.  302. 

Nestwood,  mansion,  Berwick,  ii.  416. 

Nethan  Water,  Lesmahago,  ii.  171. 

Netherbyres,  mansion,  Ayton,  i.  90. 

Netherdale,  seat,  Marnoch,  ii.  232. 

Nether  Gask,  Perthshire.  See  Gash,  Nether. 

Netherhouse,  in  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 

Netherlaw,  mansion,  Rerwick,  ii.  416. 

Netherlee,  hamlet,  Cathcart,  ii.  303. 

Netherley,  mansion,  Fetteresso,  i.  426. 

Nethermains,  hamlet,  Kinnaird,  ii.  303. 

Nethermill,  in  Aberdour,  Aberdeen,  i.  22, 23. 

Nethermill,  in  Fettercairn,  i.  425. 

Nethermill,  burn,  in  Abercorn,  Linlithgow-, 
i.  4. 

Nethermill,  burn,  Gamrie,  i.  462. 

Nethermills,  hamlet,  Grange,  i.  518. 

Nethei'place,  in  Mearns  parish,  ii.  313. 

Netherplace,  mansion,  Mauehline,  ii.  237. 

Nether  Tofts,  farm,  Kirktoun,  ii.  127. 

Netherton,  in  Hamilton,  i.  535. 

Netherton,  New  Kilpatrick,  ii.  58,  135. 

Netherton-Quarry,  village,  New  Kilpa- 
trick, ii.  303. 

Nethenrrd  House,  Kirkurd,  ii.  127, 128. 

Netherwood,  in  Cumbernauld,  i.  250. 

Nethy,  river,  Abernethy,  Perth,  i.  28. 

Nethy,  river,  Abernethy,  Elgin,  i.  28. 

Neyay,  Forfar.     See  Eassie  and  Nevay. 

Nevis,  river,  Kilmalie,  ii.  40. 

Nevis,  Loch,  Glenelg,  i.  505. 

New  Galloway-.  See  Galloicay,  New.  And 
all  places  having  a  similar  distinguishing 
prefix  will  be  found  under  the  proper  name. 

Newabrey,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  303. 

Newark,  Selkirk  parish,  ii.  460. 

Newark,  castle,  Maybole,  ii.  241. 

Newark,  district,  Lady  parish,  Orkney,  ii.  1 38. 

Newark,  district,  Renfrew,  ii.  304,  382. 

Newark,  mansion-house,  in  Abercrombie, 
Fife,  i.  5. 

Newark  Castle,  Yarrowford,  ii.  619. 

Newarthill,  village,  Bothwell,  ii.  304— i. 
148. 

Newbarns,  estate,  Oathlaw,  ii.  325. 

Newbattle,  parish,  Edinburgh,  ii.  304. 

Newbigging,  house,  Burntisland,  i.  101. 

Newbigging,  house,  Carnock,  i.  184. 

Newbigging,  village,  Auchtertool,  ii.  306. 

Newbigging,  village,  Carnwath,  ii.  305. 
Vol.  I.— 633 


Newbigging,  village,  Newtyle,  ii.  306,  316. 
Newbigging,  village,  Tealing,  ii.  306. 
Newbottle,  Edinburgh.     See  Newbattle. 
Newbridge,  hamlet,  Terregles,  ii.  306. 
Newbridge,  village,  Kirkliston,  ii.  306. 
NEWBURGH,  burgh,  Fife,  ii.  306. 
Newburgh,  sea-port,  Aberdeen,  ii.  306. 
Newburn,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  309. 
Newby,  estate,  Annan,  i.  51. 
Newbyth,  mansion,  Whitekirk,  ii.  605. 
Newbyth,  village,  Aberdeen,  ii.  309. 
New-Castle,  Inverness,  i.  577. 
New-Church,  district,  Dumfries,  i.  307. 
Newe,  seat,  Strathdon,  ii.  513. 
New-England,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Newfield,  house,  Dundonald,  i.  320. 
Newgord,  holm,  in  Unst,  ii.  579. 
Newhall,  district,  Weem.  ii.  595. 
Newhall,  house,  Crail,  i.  220. 
Newhall,  house,  in  Yester,  ii.  620. 
Newhall,  lands,  Kirkmichael  and  Cullicud- 

den,  ii.  119. 
Newhall,  mansion,  Kettins,  ii.  14. 
New-Hall  House,  Penicuick,  ii.  352,  353, 

354. 
New  Halls,  Queensferry,  ii.  397. 
Newhayen,  district,  Edinburgh,  ii.  309— ii. 

164. 
Newhills,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  310. 
Newholm,  mansion,  Dolphinton,  i.  284. 
Newhouse,  in  Bothwell,  i.  545. 
Newhouse,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320. 
Newington,  district,  Edinburgh,  ii.  311. 
Newlaud  Mailings,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  108. 
Newlandrig,  village,  Borthwick,  ii.  311. 
Newlands,  Cathcart,  i.  192. 
Newlands,  in  Fordoun,  i.  437. 
Newlands,  in  Garvald  and  Bara,  i.  467. 
Newlands,  parish,  Peebles,  ii.  311. 
Newliston,  estate,  Kirkliston,  ii.  109,  110. 
Newmaih,  Blantyre,  i.  136. 
Newmains,  residence,  Lochmaben,  ii.  198. 
New-Mill,  house,  Dairsie,  i.  260. 
New  Mills,  near  Bridge  of  Weir,i.  549. 
Newmills,  or  Torry,  Fife.     See  Torry. 
Newmills,  hamlet,  Fordyce,  ii.  312. 
Newmills,  village,  Keith,  ii.  311. 
Newmiln,  in  Airth,  Stirling,  i.  34,  35. 
Newmilns,  burgh,  Ayr,  ii.  312 — ii.  217. 
Newport,  village,  Forgan,  ii.  312, 
New-Posso,  seat,  Peeblesshire,  ii.  351. 
Newstead,  village,  Melrose,  ii,  312. 
Newton,  in  Criech,  i.  234. 
Newton,  in  Ednam,  i.  393. 
Newton,  castle,  Glenisla,  i.  507. 
Newton,  estate,  Kilmadock,  ii.  39. 
Newton,  farm,  Bedrule,  i.  113. 
Newton,  hamlet,  Kirkpatrick-Durham,  ii. 

312. 
Newton,  hamlet,  in  Wamphray,  ii.  591. 
Newton,  hamlet,  Wiston  and  Roberton,  ii. 

313. 
Newton,  house,  in  Alves,  Elgin,  i.  41 . 
Newton,  house,  Cambuslang,  i.  1 70. 
Newton,  house,  Tibbermore,  ii.  539. 
Newton,  mansion,  Blairgowrie,  i.  1 34. 
Newton,  mansion,  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 
Newton,  parish,  Edinburgh,  ii.  312. 
Newton,  residence,  Nairn,  ii.  299. 
Newton,  seat,  St.  Vigean's,  ii.  587. 
Newton,  village,  Abercorn,  ii.  313. 
Newton,  village,  Glammis,  ii.  313. 
Newton,  village,  Great  Cumbray,  Bute,  ii. 

312. 


New-ton,  village,  Mearns,  ii.  313 — ii.  242. 
Newton,  village,  Pencaitland,  ii.  313,  352. 
Newton,   village,    Urquhart    and   Wester 

Logie,  ii.  313. 
Newton,  Little,  Nenthorn,  ii.  302. 
Newton-Collessie,  seat,  Fife,  i.  428. 
Newton-Don,  seat,  Nenthorn,  ii.  302. 
Newton-Donhouse,  in  Stitchell  and  Hume, 

ii.  497. 
Newton-Douglas,  Peiminghame,  ii.  314. 
Newton-Grange,  Newbattle,  ii.  305. 
Newton  Hall,  in  Yester,  ii.  620. 
Newton  Hall,  mansion,  Kennoway,  ii.  14. 
Newton  House,  Crawford,  i.  230. 
Newton  House,  Culsamond,  i.  247. 
Newton  House,  Newton  parish,  ii.  313. 
Newton,  Long,  village,  Yester,  ii.  621. 
Newton-Mill,  mansion,  Strickathrow,  ii.  517- 
Newtonmore,  village,  Kingussie,  ii.  313. 
Newton  of  Belltrees,   hamlet,  Lochwin- 

noch,  ii.  313. 
Newton  of  Falkland,  village,  Fife,  ii.  313. 
Newton-Ralston,  village,  Renfrew,  ii.  313. 
Newtonshaw,  village,  Clackmannan,  ii.  313. 
NEWTON-STEWART,  town,  Wigton,  ii. 

314. 
Newton-upon-Ayr,  burgh,  Ayr,  ii.  314. 
Newtown,  hamlet,  Bedrule,  ii.  316. 
Newtown,  suburb,  Cupar,  i.  255. 
Newtown,  village,  Abbotshall,  ii.  315 — i.  2. 
Newtown,  village,  Aberdour,  ii.  316— i.  24. 
Newtown,  village,  Borrowstounness,  ii.  316. 
Newtown,  village,  Fintry,  ii.  316 — i.  431. 
Newtown,  village,  Melrose,  ii.  316. 
New-Town.     See  Edinburgh. 
Newtown  of  Pitcairn,  village,  Dunning,  ii. 

316. 
Newtyle,  in  Caputh,  i.  177. 
Newtyle,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  316. 
Newtyle  railway,  i.  318. 
New  Village,  Newtyle  parish,  ii.  316. 
Nibon,  isle,  Shetland,  ii.  323. 
Nicholas,  St.,  Orkney.     See  Stronsatj. 
Nicholas,  St.,  parish.     See  Aberdeen. 
Nicolson,  barony,  Temple,  ii.  534. 
Niddrie,  lands,  Liberton,  ii.  177,  178. 
Niddry,  village,  Kirkliston,  ii.  317 — ii- 1 10, 

111. 
Niddry,  Long.     See  Longnkldry. 
Neilsland,  house,  Hamilton,  i.  534. 
Nigg,  parish,  Kincardine,  ii.  317- 
Nigg,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  318. 
Nine-Stone  Ridge,  Castleton,  i.  190. 
Niuewar  House,  Dunbar,  i.  312. 
Ninewells,  house,  Chirnside,  i.  197,  198. 
Nine  Wells,  spring,  Newburgh,  ii.  307- 
Ninian's,  St.,  bay,  Rothesay,  ii.  434. 
Ninian's,  St.,  isle,  Dunrossness,  i.  338. 
Ninian's,  St.,  parish,  Stirling,  ii. '319. 
Ninian's,  St.,  Croft,  in  Govan,  i.  516. 
Nisbet,  ancient  parish,  Roxburgh,  i.  226. 
Nisbet,  in  Edrom,  i.  394. 
Nisbet,  hamlet,  Pencaitland,  ii.  322. 
Nisbet,  lands,  in  Culter,  i.  248. 
Nisbet,  East  and  West,  Roxburgh,  ii.  322. 
Nisbet  House,  Dalziel,  i.  272. 
Nith,   river,    Caerlaverock,   i.    165  ;    New 

Cumnock,  253  ;  Sanquhar,  ii.  454 ;  Tro- 

queer,  561. 
Nithsdale,  Dumfriesshire,  i.  308. 
Nitshill,  village,  Paisley,  ii.  322,  342. 
Noarsa,  village,  Islay,  Argyll,  ii.  385. 
Noblehouse,  in  Newlands  parish,  ii.  311. 
Nochty,  stream,  Strathdon,  ii.  512. 
4  M 


INDEX. 


Noddle,  river,  Largs,  ii.  151. 

Noe,  river,  Ardchattan,  Argyll,  i.  62. 

Noir,  loch,  Dallas,  i.  263. 

No  Ness,  headland,  Dunrossness,  Shetland, 

ii.  452. 
Noop,  bay,  Westray,  ii.  600. 
Noop,  headland,  Ness,  Shetland,  ii.  302. 
Noran,  rivulet,  Careston,  i.  179. 
Noranside,  estate,  in  Fearn,  i.  420. 
Norman-Dykes,  ancient  camp,  Peterculter, 

ii.  367- 
Norman  Law,  Kilmany,  ii.  41. 
Norman's  Law,  hill,  in  Abdie,  Fife,  i.  2,  3, 
Norriestown,  district,  Perth,  ii.  322. 
Norshield,  lands,  Eddlestone,  i.  360. 
North-Bar,  near  Beith,  i.  1 13. 
North  Berwick.  See  Beraick,  North.  And 

all  places  having  a    similar  distinguishing 

prefix  will  be  found  under  the  proper  name. 
North-British  railway,  i.  379. 
Northchurch,  district,  Lanark,  ii.  322. 
Northern  Abbey  of  Lindores,  Aberdeen,  i. 

430. 
Northesk,  district,  Edinburgh,  ii.  323. 
Northfield,  Coldingham,  i.  208. 
Northfield  House,  Annan,  i.  52. 
North  Head,  headland,  Peterhead,  ii.  370. 
North-Loch,  Edinburgh,  i.  372,  378. 
Northmavine,  parish,  Mainland,  Shetland, 

ii.  323. 
Northmuir,  village,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  324. 
North  Parish.     See  Aberdeen. 
Northwall,  district,  Lady  parish,    Orkney, 

ii.  138. 
North  Water,  river,  Forfar.  See  Esk,  North. 
North- West  Castle,  Inch,  i.  557. 
Norton  House,  Ratho,  ii.  404. 
Norwick,  bay,  Unst,  ii.  578. 
Noss,  county  of  Shetland,  ii.  324. 
Noss  Head,  Wick,  ii.  610. 
Noth,  hill,  Rhynie  and  Essie,  ii.  419. 
Novar  House,  seat,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.430. 
Nungate,  suburb,  Haddington,  i.  528,  529. 
Nunlands,  in  Foulden,  i.  452. 
Nunmill,  in  Twynholm,  ii.  569. 
Nunraw,  burn,  Whittingham,  ii.  608. 
Nunraw,  house,  Garvald  and  Bara,  i.  467. 
Nun's  Spring,  Ladykirk,  ii.  139. 
Nunton,  High  and  Low,  farms,  Twynholm, 

ii.  569. 
Nut-Holm  hill,  St.  Mungo,  ii.  293. 
Nyte,  rivulet,  in  Abernyte,  Perth,  i.  30. 


o 

Oa,  district,  Argyll,  ii.  324. 

Oakfield,  village,  Beath,ii.  324. 

Oakley,  house,  Torryburn,  ii.  554. 

Oakshaw  Head,  hill,  Paisley,  ii.  337,  343. 

Oakwood,  Selkirk  parish,  ii.  460. 

Oar,  stream,  Dysart,  i.  348. 

Oathlaw,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  324. 

OBAN,  burgh,  Argyll,  ii.  325. 

Obbe,  in  Harris,  i.  536. 

Ob-inag,  harbour,  Glenshiel,  i.  510. 

Obney  Hills,  Auchtergaven,  i.  78,  79. 

Ochil  Hills,  Logie,  ii.  205. 

Ochiltree,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  326— i.  84. 

Ochterlony,  mansion,  Rescobie,  ii.  417. 

Ochtertyre,  estate,  Monivaird  and  Strowan, 

ii.  267. 
Ochtertyre,  seat,  Kincardine  in  Monteith,  ii. 

70. 

634 


Odin's  Cave,  Torosay,  ii  552. 

Odness,  headland,  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 

Ogilface,  castle,  Torphichen,  ii.  553. 

Ogilvie,  glen,  Glammis,  i.  478. 

Ogilvy  Castle,  Blackford,  i.  131. 

Ogle,  Easter  and  Wester,  seats,  Tannadice, 
ii.  528. 

Ogston,  old  parish,  Elgin,  i.  290. 

Oich,  Loch,  i.  576. 

Oich,  stream,  Boleskine,  i.  139. 

Oikel,  river,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 

Ola,  St.,  county  of  Orkney.    See  Kirkwall. 

Old  Brocklehurst.  See  Broeklelmrst,  Old. 
And  all  places  hating  a  similar  distin- 
guishing prefix  will  be  found  under  the 
proper  name. 

Oldcastle,  hamlet,  Slains  and  Forvie,  ii.  327. 

Oldenev,  isle,  Assynt,  Sutherland,  ii.  327- 

Oldhamstocks,  parish,  Berwick,  ii.  327. 

Old  Man  of  Hoy,  Orkney,  i.  550. 

Old-Mill,  Property  of,  Aberdeen,  i.  18. 

Oldrome,  village,  Dundonald,  ii.  328. 

Oldshields,  in  Biggar,  i.  128. 

Olivebank,  seat,  Inveresk,  ii.  323. 

Oliver  Castle,  in  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  568. 

011a,  harbour,  Sandsting  and  Aithsting,  ii. 
450. 

Ollaberry,  mansion,  Northmavine,  ii.  324. 

Olrick,  or  Olrig,  parish,  Caithness,  ii.  328. 

Omoa,  village,  Bertram-Shotts,  ii.  329 — i.  1 1 9. 

Opsay,  isle,  Harris,  Inverness,  ii.  329. 

Orangefield,  seat,  Monkton  and  Prestwick, 
ii.  271. 

Oransay,  isle,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 

Orbost,  mansion,  Duirinish,  i.  300. 

Orcas,  Cape,  Orkney  Islands,  ii.  330. 

Orchard  Park,  Bolton,  i.  140. 

Orchardton,  bay,  Sorbie,  ii.  473. 

Orchardton,  mansion,  Rerwick,  ii.  416. 

Orchardstown,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 

Orchil,  stream,  Boharm,  i.  137,  138. 

Orchy,  river,  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 

Ord-ban,  hill,  Rothiemurchus,  ii.  436. 

Ord  Hill,  in  Drumoak,  i.  294. 

Ord  House,  Urray,  ii  586. 

Ord  of  Caithness,  i.  166. 

Ordens,  Boindie,  i.  1 39. 

Ordie,  hill,  Dunkeld,  i.  329. 

Ordie,  river,  Auchtergaven,  i.  78,  79. 

Ordiquhill,  parish,  Banff,  ii.  329. 

Ore,  river,  Auchterderran,  i.  78. 

Ore  Hope,  bay,  Walls  and  Sandness,ii.589. 

Orinsay,  island,  North  Uist,  Inverness,  ii. 
329. 

ORKNEY  Islands,  ii.  329. 

Orland's,  St.,  Stone,  Glammis,  i.  478. 

Ormidale,  lands,  Kilmodan,  ii.  48. 

Ormiston,  Eckford,  i.  357,  358. 

Ormiston,  lands,  Kirknewton  and  East 
Calder,  ii.  120. 

Ormiston,  parish,  Haddington,  ii.  330. 

Ormond's  Mount,  Avoch,  i.  84. 

Ormsary,  stream,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 

Oronsay,  county  of  Argyll,  ii.  333. 

Orphir,  parish,  Orkney,  ii.  333. 

Orr,  river,  Fife,  i.  428. 

Orrea,  Roman  station,  Redgorton,  ii.  410. 

Orrin,  stream,  Urray,  ii.  585. 

Orroland,  mansion,  Rerwick,  ii.  416. 

Orton,  Rothes,  ii.  432. 

Orwell,  parish,  Kinross,  ii.  334. 

Oscar,  Loch,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189. 

Osnaburgh,  village,  Dairsie,  ii.  335. 

Osse-Skerry,  rock,  Northmavine,  ii.  323. 


Ossian's  Seat,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 
Otterburn,  in  Longformacus  and  Ellim,   ii. 

211. 
Otter  House,  Kilfinan,  ii.  32. 
Otterston,  loch,  Dalgety,  i.  261. 
Ottirvore,  Barra,  i.  107. 
Ouan,  Loch,  Monivaird  and  Strowan,  ii.  266. 
Oude,  river,  Kilninver  and  Kilmelf'ord,  ii.  57. 
Our  Lady's  Well,  Bedrnle,  i.  1 13. 
Overbie,  camp,  Eskdalemuir,  i.  407. 
Overbister,  district,  Lady  parish,  Orkney, 

ii.  138. 
Overhall,  residence,  Premnay,  ii.  392. 
Overlee,  farm,  Cathcart,  i.  192. 
Oversay,  Islay,  Argyll,  i.  585. 
Overtown,  Smailholm,  ii.  471. 
Overtown,  in  Tulliallan,  ii.  563. 
Overtown,  village,  Cambusnethan,  ii.  335. 
Oxenford  Castle,  Cramond,  i.  228. 
Oxgang,  seat,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 
Oxna,  isle,  Shetland,  ii.  335. 
Oxnam,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  335. 
Oyne,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  336. 


Pabay,  isle,  Skye,  Inverness,  ii.  337. 

Pabba,  isle,  Barra,  Inverness,  ii.  337. 

Pabbay,  isle,  Lewis,  Inverness,  ii.  337 — i.  118. 

Pabba Y,  isle,  Uig,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  337. 

Pad,  hill,  Renfrew,  ii.  300. 

Padanarum,  village,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  337. 

PAISLEY,  burgh,  Renfrewshire  ;  history, 
ii.  337  ;  description  of  the  town,  338* ; 
trade  and  manufactures,  339  ;  municipal 
affairs,  340  ;  parish,  341  ;  ecclesiastical 
affairs,  342  ;  schools  and  other  charities, 
343  ;  remains  of  antiquity,  344.  See  also 
i.  489,  for  railways. 

Paiston,  Ormiston,  ii.  331,  332. 

Palace-Craig,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 

Palace-Walls,  in  Ashkirk,  i.  72. 

Paldy,  old  parish,  Kincardine,  i.  436. 

Palnackie,  village  and  sea-port,  Kirkcud- 
bright, ii.  345. 

Palnure,  MinnigafF,  ii.  258. 

Pananich,  spring,  Ballater,  i.  94. 

Panbride,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  345. 

Panhope,  harbour,  Walls  and  Sandness,  ii. 
589. 

Panmure  House,  Panbride,  ii.  345. 

Pap,  mountain,  Latheron,  ii.  154. 

Papa,  isle,  Shetland,  ii.  346— i.  162. 

Papa,  Little,  Shetland,  ii.  346,  450. 

Papa-Sound,  village,  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 

Papa-Stour,  island,  Shetland,  ii.  346,  588, 
589. 

Papa-Stronsay,  isle,  Orkney,  ii.  346. 

Papa-Westray,  isle,  North  Isles,  Orknev, 
ii.  346,  601. 

Papal,  bay,  in  North  Yell,  i.  423. 

Papdale  House,  Kirkwall  and  St.  Ola,  ii.  129. 

Papigo,  headland,  Wick,  i.  155. 

Paplay,  Orkney.      See  Holm  and  Paplay. 

Papple,  in  Whittingham,  ii.  608. 

Paps  of  Jura,  mountains,  Argyll,  i.  69. 

Parbroath,  in  Creich,  i.  233. 

Parf,  district,  Durness,  i.  342. 

Park,  estate,  Drumoak,  i.  294. 

Park,  estate,  Lonmay,  ii.  214. 

Park,  estate,  Ordiquhill,  ii.  329. 

Park,  farm,  Garvald  and  Bara,  i.  467. 

Park,  lands,  Morton,  ii.  281. 

Park,  mansion,  Drymen,  i.  297. 


INDEX. 


Park,  peninsula,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 
Park,  seat,  Inchinnau,  i.  558. 
Park  Castle,  Old  Luce,  ii.  218. 
Park  Farm,  Blantyre,  i.  136. 
Parkhead,  village,  near  Glasgow,  ii.  34fi. 
Park  Hill,  seat,  Polmout,  ii.  379. 
Parkhill,  Kilmuir  Easter,  ii.  54. 
Parkhill,  mansion,  New  Maehar,  ii.  226. 
Parkhill,  mansion,  Rattray,  ii.  407- 
Parkhill,  seat,  St.  Vigean's,  ii.  587- 
Parkhouse,  hill,  Old  Deer,  i.  276,  277. 
Park-Moor,  in  Tarbolton,  ii.  531. 
Parrymont,  hill,  in  Rathven,  i.  403. 
Parsonscroft,  lands,  near  Glasgow,  i.  44. 
Parson's  Lake,  Kilninver  and   Kilmelford, 

ii.  57. 
Partick,  district,  Lanark,  ii.  346. 
Parton,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  346. 
Paterson's  Rock,  Southend,  ii.  477- 
Pathhead,  district,  Fife,  ii.  347. 
Pathhead,  village,  Crichton,  ii.  347 — i-  233. 
Pathhead,  village,  New  Cumnock,  ii.  347. 
Pathheads,  Rathven,  ii.  406. 
Path-Struie,  hamlet,  Forgandenny,  i.  443. 
Patiemuir,  village,  Dunfermline,  ii.  347. 
Patna,  village,  Straiton,  ii.  348, 507. 
Pavilion,  The,  Ardrossan,  Ayr,  i.  67. 
Paxton,  village,  Hutton,  ii.  348— i.  553. 
Pearsie,  mansion,  Kingoldrum,  ii.  78. 
Pease  Den,  Cockburnspath,  i.  206. 
Peashills,  farm,  Balmerino,  i.  98. 
Peat,  hill,  Selkirk  parish,  ii.  460. 
Peatie,  hamlet,  Kettins,  ii.  348. 
Peattie,  burn,  Bervie,  i.  121. 
Peattoun,  residence,  Roseneath,  ii.  428. 
PEEBLES,  burgh,  Peeblesshire,  ii.  348. 
PEEBLESSHIRE,  or  Tweeddale,  ii.  350. 
Peel-Bog,  wooden   castle,  Lumphaiian,   ii. 

219,  220. 
Peelwalls,  house,  Ayton,  i.  90. 
Peffei',  river,  Aberlady,  i.  25  ;  Athelstane- 

ford,  73  ;  Dirleton,  282. 
Peffery,  rivulet,  Fodderty,  i.  434,  435. 
Pegal  Head,  Walls  parish,  Orkney,  ii.  421. 
Peindinavaig,  hill,  Portree,  ii.  389. 
Pelphrie,  burn,  Menmuir,  ii.  248. 
Pencaitland,  parish,  Haddington,  ii.  351. 
Penelheugh,  eminence,  Roxburgh  parish,  ii. 

439. 
Penkill,  river,  Minnigaff,  ii.  258. 
Penmore,  seat,  Colmonell,  i.  213. 
Penick,  house  of,  Auldearn,  i.  83. 
Penicuick,  parish,  Edinburgh,  ii.  352. 
Pennan,  village,  Aberdour,  ii.  354  — i.  22, 23. 
Pennersaughs,  parish,  Middlebie,  ii.  252. 
Penninghame,  parish,  Wigton,  ii.  354. 
Pennycross  House,  Kilfinichen  and  Kilvi- 

ceuen,  ii.  33. 
Pennyccick,  Edinburgh.     See  Penicuick. 
Pennygowan,  Torosay,  ii.  551. 
Pennymuir,  in  Oxnam  parish,  ii.  335,  336. 
Penpont,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  355. 
Penshiel,  old  parish,  Dunbar,  i.  312,  ii.  608. 
Penston,  village,  Gladsmuir,  ii.  357 — i.476, 

477- 
Pentecox,  hamlet,  Newton,  ii.  357. 
Pentland,  ancient  parish,  Lasswade,  ii.  153, 

154. 
Pentland,  village,  Lasswade,  ii.  357. 
Pentland  Hills,  Edinburghshire,  i.  391. 
Pentland  Skerries,  islands,  Orkney,  ii.  357. 
Penton  Linns,  in  Canobie,  i.  1/6. 
Penwherry,  castle,  Colmonell,  i.  214. 
635 


Pepperwell  Oak,  Methven,  ii.  251. 

Perclewan,  in  Dalrymple,  i.  269. 

Percy  Hill,  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  278. 

Perk  Hill,  Lumphanan,  ii.  219. 

Persey,  district,  Perth,  ii.  357. 

Pert,  ancient  parish,  Logie-Pert,  ii.  208. 

PERTH,  city,  Perthshire ;  history,  ii.  357  ; 

situation  of  the  town,  &c,  359  ;  trade  and 

manufactures,    360  ;    municipal    affairs, 

361  ;    rural   district,   362  ;  ecclesiastical 

affairs,  362  ;  schools  and  charities,  363  ; 

antiquities,  364.     See  also  i.  362. 
PERTHSHIRE,  ii.  364. 
Peter,  St.,  North  Isles,  Orkney.  See  Stron- 

say. 
Peter,  St.,  South  Isles,  Orkney.    See  South 

Rcnatdshay. 
Peterciilter,  Aberdeen,  ii.  367— i.  13. 
PETERHEAD,  burgh,  Aberdeen,  ii.  368— 

i.  9. 
Pf.terhythe,  village,  Rathven,  ii.  370. 
Petgornoc,  lands,  Fife,  i.  97. 
Pettie,  or  Petty,   parish,    Inverness   and 

Nairn,  ii.  370. 
Pettinain,  parish,  Lanark,  ii.  372. 
Petty,  Inverness  and  Nairn.     See  Pettie. 
Pettycur,  harbour,  Kinghorn,  ii.  76. 
Petyn,  former  parish,  Pettie,  ii.  370. 
Pharay,  island,  North  Isles,  Orkney,  ii.  373. 
Pharay,  island,  South  Isles, Orkney,  ii.  373. 
Phesdo,  mansion,  in  Fordoun,  i.  436. 
Philiphaugh,  in  Selkirk,  ii.  459,  460. 
Phjlipstown,  village,  Abercorn,  ii.  373. 
Philorth,  Fraserburgh,  i.  165,  455. 
Philorth,  Water  of,  Rathen,  ii.  402. 
Phinstown,  village,  Firth  and  Stenness,  i.432. 
Physgill,  in  Glasserton,  i.  499,  500. 
Pibble,  mountain,  Kirkmabreck,  ii.  111. 
Picts'  Howe,  Logie-Coldstone,  ii.  207. 
Pierceby  Hall,  Tundergarth,  ii.  565. 
Pierceton,  house,  Dreghorn,  i.  291. 
Pierowall,  bay,  Westray,  ii.  600. 
Piershill,  near  Edinburgh,  i.  589. 
Pierwall,  village,  Ladykirk,  ii.  373. 
Pigeons'  Cave,  in  Gigha  and  Cara,  i.  471. 
Piltanton,  burn.     See  Poltanton. 
Piuiel  Heugh,  in  Crailing,  i.  226. 
Pinkie,  Plains  of,  Inveresk,  ii.  295. 
Pinkie-burn,  in  Inveresk,  i.  570. 
Pinkie  House,  in  Inveresk,  i.  570. 
Pinkterton,  old  parish,  Dunbar,  i.  312. 
Pinnacle  Hill,  mansion,  Kelso,  ii.  8. 
Piperhall,  hamlet,  Kingarth,  ii.  373. 
Pirn,  mansion,  Stow,  ii.  504. 
Pirntaiton,  in  Stow  parish,  ii.  504. 
Pitalpie,  Liff  and  Benvie,  ii.  180. 
Pitbeadly,  hill,  St.  Cyrus,  i.  258,  259. 
Pitblado,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
Pitcairly,  lands,  Newburgh,  ii.  308. 
Pitcaipn,  county  of  Perth.     See  Newtoicn  of 

Pitcairn. 
Pitcairn,  mansiou,  Dunning,  ii.  316. 
Pitcairn- Green,  village,  Redgorton,  ii.  374. 
Pitcairn  House,  Leslie,  ii.  171. 
Pitcaple,  castle,  in  Chapel  of  Garioeh,  i.  464. 
Pitcon,  lands,  Dairy,  i.  267. 
Pitcorthie  House,  Carnbee,  i.  183. 
Pitcox,  village,  Stenton,  ii.  374. 
Pitcullo,  mansion,  Leuchaxs,  ii.  174. 
Pitcur,  Ford  of,  hamlet,  Kettins,  ii.  374. 
Pitdennies,  burn,  Cairneyhill,  i.  165. 
Pitdennies,  lands,  Carnock,  i.  184. 
Pitferrane.     See  Pitfrrane. 


Pitfichie  Castle,  Monymusk,  ii.  276. 
Pitfirrane,  house,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 
Pitfour,  estate,  Old  Deer,  i.  276. 
Pitfour  Castle,  St.  Madoes,  ii.  227. 
Pitgair,  farm,  Gamrie,  i.  462. 
Pitgaveny,  in  St.  Andrew's  Lhanbryde,  El- 
gin, i.  50. 
Pitjossie,  Arch  of,  in  Aberdour,  Aberdeen,  i. 

22. 
Pitkanny,  lands,  Pettie,  ii.  370. 
Pitkeathly,  house,  Dunbaruy,  i.  313. 
Pitkeithly,  mineral  springs,  Perth,  i.  353. 
Pitlessie,   village,   Cults,  Fife,  ii.  374— i. 

249. 
Pitlethie,  Leuchars,  ii.  175. 
Pitliver  House,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 
Pitlochrie,  rivulet,  Glenisla,  Forfar,  i.  506. 
Pitlochry',  village,  Moulin,  ii.  374. 
Pitlour  House,  Strathmiglo,  ii.  515. 
Pitlyal,  lake,  Lundie  and  Fowlis,  ii.  221. 
Pitmachie,  Oyne,  ii.  336,  337. 
Pitmedden,  seat,  Udny,  ii.  572. 
Pitmiddie,  village,  Kinnaird,  ii.  374. 
Pitmilly,  seat,  Kingsbarns,  ii.  79. 
Pitmudie,  hamlet,  Lintrathen,  ii.  374. 
Pitmuies,  mansion,  Kirkden,  ii.  105. 
Pitmurchie,  seat,  Lumphanan,  ii.  219. 
Pitormie,  lands,  Dairsie,  i.  260. 
Pitreavie  House,  Dunfermline,  i.  322,  324. 
Pitrodie,  burn,  Kilspindie,  ii.  61. 
Pitrodie,  village,  Kilspindie,  ii.  374. 
Pitscaudly,  Hill  of,  Rescobie,  ii.  417. 
Pitscottie,  Easter,  lands,  Ceres,  i.  195. 
Pitsligo,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  374. 
Pitsligo,  New,  district,  Aberdeen,  ii.  375. 
Pittairthy,  castle,  Dunino,  i.  326. 
Pittan  Druidh,  in  Dunino,  i.  326. 
Pitteucrieff,  glen,  Dunfermline,  i.  321,  323, 

324. 
PITTENWEEM,  burgh,  Fife,  ii.  376. 
Pittheveliss,  village,  East  parish,  Perth, 

ii.  376. 
Pittodrie,  mansion,  Oyne,  ii.  336. 
Pittrichie,  house,  Udny,  ii.  572. 
Pittullie,   village,  Aberdeen,   ii.   377— ii. 

375. 
Plada,  isle,  Kilbrandon,  Argyll,  ii.  377- 
Pladda,  island,  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 
Plater,  forest,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  131. 
Piatt,  South,  hill,  Ratho,  ii.  403. 
Plean,  district,  Stirling,  ii.  377— ii.  320, 321. 
Pleasance,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  11 7. 
Plenderleath,  in  Oxnam  parish,  ii.  335. 
Plockton,   burgh,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 

377— ii.  192. 
Plodda,  waterfall,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63. 
Pluscardine,  vale,  Elgin,  i.  398,  399. 
Poldown,  harbour,  in  Applecross,  i.  55. 
Polgavie,  harbour,  Inchture,  i.  560. 
Polkemmet,  seat,  Whitburn,  ii.  603. 
Poll,  rivulet,  Aberfoyle,  Perth,  i.  24. 
Pollach,  creek,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  ii.  54. 
Poll-Dubh,  spring,  Logie-Coldstone,  ii.  207. 
Pollock,  Renfrew.     See  Eastwood. 
Pollock,  Upper,  seat,  Mearns,  ii.  242. 
POLLOCKSHAWS,  town,  Renfrew,  ii.  377. 
Polmadie,  lands,  Gorbals,  1.512,  515. 
Polmailly,  house,  Urquhart,  ii.  583. 
Polmaise,  mansion,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  321. 
Polmoxt,  parish,  Stirling,  ii.  378. 
Polmood,  seat,  Peeblesshire,  ii.  351. 
Polnish,  in  Ardnamurchan,  i.  66. 
Polnoon,  castle,  Eaglesham,  i.  350. 
4M2 


INDEX. 


Polquhaise,  farm,  New  Cumnock,  i.  253. 
Polquhite,  estate,  Culsamond,  i.  247. 
Pol-Roag,  in  Duirinish,  i.  300. 
Poltairve,  creek,  Kilfinicheu  and  Kilviceuen, 

ii.  33. 
Poltalloch,  estate,  Kilmartin,  ii.  45. 
Poltanton,  river,  Stoneykirk,  ii.  501. 
Poltiel,  loch,  Duirinish,  i.  300. 
Polton,  mansion,  Lasswade,  ii.  153. 
Polton-Street,  village,  Cock  pen,  ii.  3/9. 
Polwarth,  parish,  Berwick,  ii.  379. 
Pomillon,  river,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  23. 
Pomona  or  MAiNLAND,island,  Orkney,  ii.  380. 
Ponfeigh,  in  Carmichael,  i.  182. 
Poniel  Water,  Lesmahago,  ii.  171- 
Pool,  village,  Muckart,  ii.  380. 
Poolewe,  district,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 

380. 
Port-Allan,  Whithorn,  ii.  604. 
Port-Allen,  in  Errol,  i.  404. 
Portanellan,  lake,  Kilmeny,  ii.  46. 
Port-Appin,  village,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii. 

190. 
Portavata,  isle,  Ardnaniurchan,  Inverness, 

ii.  380. 
Port-Bannatyne,  village,  Bute,  ii.  381. 
Port-Carty,  Kirkmabreek,  ii.  111. 
Port-Chaistel,  in  Tarbat,  ii.  529. 
Port-Charlotte,  village,  Kilchoman,  ii.  27. 
Port-Downie,  near  Falkirk,  i.  379. 
Port-Dundas,  village,  near  Glasgow,  ii.  381 

— i.  488. 
Porteasie,  village,  Rathven,  ii.  381. 
Port-Edgar,  Queensferry,  i.  371,  ii.  397. 
Port-Eglinton,  in  Govan,  i.  515. 
Port-Ellen,  port,  Islay,  Argyll,  ii.  381 — ii. 

30. 
Port-Elphinstone,    village,    Aberdeen,    ii. 

381— ii.  93. 
Port-Float,  bay,  Stoneykirk,  ii.  501. 
Port-Gill,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
PORT -GLASGOW,   burgh,   Renfrew,  ii. 

381. 
Port-Gordon,  village,  Banff,  ii.  383 — i.403, 

ii.  406. 
Port-Gower,  village,  Loth  parish,  ii.  383 — 

ii.  216. 
Port  Hill,  Aberdeen,  i.  10. 
Port-Hopetoun,  near  Edinburgh,  i.  379. 
Portincross,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  25. 
Port-Innerwell,  Sorbie,  ii.  474. 
Port-Kaile,  bay,  Portpatrick,  ii.  388. 
Port-Kill,  Roseneath,  ii.  428. 
Portlethen,  village,   Bauchory-Devenick, 

ii.  383— i.  100. 
Portlich,  village,  Kilmuir  Easter,  ii.  383. 
Port-Logan,  village,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  384 — 

ii.  114. 
Portmahomack,  port,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 

ii.  384. 
Port-Maluag,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  188. 
Port- Mary,  Dundrennan,  i.  321,  ii.  416. 
Portmoak,  parish,  Kinross,  ii.  384. 
Port-Montgomery,  Portpatrick,  ii.  387. 
1'ortrnore,  bay,  Kirkcohn,  ii.  99. 
Port-Murray,  bay,  Portpatrick,  ii.  388. 
Portnacoultcr,  in  Criech,  i.  233. 
Portnacrolsh,  village,  Lismore  and  Appin, 

ii.  385— ii.  190. 
Port-na-Ctirrach,  Iona,  i.  583. 
Portnafcamin,  harbour,  Argyll,  i.  214. 
Portnahaven,  district,  Islay,  Argyll,  ii.  385 

— ii.  27. 

636 


Portnamurlaeh,    Lismore    and    Appin,    ii. 

189. 
Portnessock,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Portnockie,  village,  Rathven,  Banff,  ii.  385, 

406. 
Port-Nuick,  Queensferry,  ii.  397. 
Portobello,  burgh,  Edinburgh,  ii.  385. 
Port  of  Monteith,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  386 — 

i.  25. 
Port  of  the  Athollmen,  Craignish,  i.  225. 
Port-Our,  Durness,  i.  343. 
PORTPATRICK,  burgh,  Wigton,  ii.  387. 
Port-Ranrsa,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.   189, 

190. 
Portree,  parish,  Skye,  Inverness,  ii.  388. 
Portsburgh,  burgh,  Edinburgh,  ii.  390 — i. 

380. 
Portseaton,  village,  Tranent,  ii.  390. 
Portskerray,  village,  Reay,  Sutherland,  ii. 

390. 
PORTSOY,  burgh,  Banff,  ii.  391. 
Port-Spittal,  bay,  Stoneykirk,  ii.  501. 
Portuisgen,  creek,  Kilfinichen  and    Kilvi- 
ceuen, ii.  33. 
Portvasgo,  Tongue,  ii.  549. 
Port- William,  village,  Wigton,  ii.  391 — ii. 

260. 
Port-Wymss,  village,  Kilchoman,  ii.  27. 
Port-Yarrock,  Whithorn,  ii.  606. 
Posso,  New,  seat,  Peeblesshire,  ii.  351. 
Potarch,  Bridge  of,  Birse,  i.  130. 
Potento,  mansiou,  Meigle,  ii.  243. 
Pow,   burn,   Monkton   and    Prestwick,    ii. 

271. 
Pow,  river,  in  Airth,  Stirling,  i.  34,  35. 
Pow,  river,  Madderty,  ii.  226. 
Powburn,  stream,  Duddingston,  i.  297. 
Powfoot,  village,  Ciunmertrees,  ii.  391. 
Powgavie,  harbour,  Inchture,  i.  560. 
Powgree,  stream,  Beith,  i.  113. 
Powis  House,  Logie,  ii.  205. 
Powrie,  castle,  Murroes,  ii.  294. 
Powsail,  rivulet,  Drummelzier,  i.  293. 
Poyntzfield,  Kirkmichael  and  Cullicudden, 

ii.  119. 
Preacher's  Burn,  rivulet,  Mull,  Argyll,  ii 

446. 
Premnav,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  392. 
Prenderguest,  estate,  Ayton,  i.  90. 
Presholm,  Rathven,  ii.  406. 
Press,  ancient  parish,  Aberdeen,  i.  130. 
Prestelloch,  lands,  Luss,  ii.  222. 
Preston,  Berwick.     See  Bunkle. 
Preston,  hamlet,  Cranston,  ii.  392. 
Preston,  village,  Prestonpans,  ii.  392. 
Preston -Farm,  Kirkbean,  ii.  96. 
Prestonfield  House,  Duddingston,  i.  298. 
Preston  Hall,  Cramond,  i.  228. 
Preston  Hall,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
Prestonhaugh,  Prestonkirk,  ii.  393. 
Prestonholme,  village,  Cockpen,  ii.  393. 
Prestonkirk,  parish,  Haddington,  ii.  393. 
Preston-Mill,  village,  Kirkbean,  ii.  392. 
Prestonpans,  parish,  Haddington,  ii.  393. 
Preston  Tower,  in  Fyvie,  i.  457. 
Prestwick,  burgh,  Ayr,  ii.  395 — ii.  271. 
Priest,  isle,  Lochbroom,  in  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, ii.  395. 
Priesthaugh,  in  Cavers,  i.  194. 
Priestinch,  lands,  in  Abercorn,  Linlithgow, 

i.  3,  4. 
Priestown,  farm,  Tealing,  ii.  534. 
Priest's  burn,  in  Abdie,  Fife,  i.  3. 


Priest's  Folly,  lands,  in  Abercorn,  Linlith- 
gow, i.  3. 

Priest's  Isle,  in  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 

Priest's  Well,  Eckford,  i.  358. 

Primrose,  Edinburgh.     See  Carrington. 

Primside,  loch,  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii. 
278. 

Prince's  Cave,  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 

Prinlaws,  village,  Leslie,  ii.  170. 

Priory-Lane,  Dunfermline,  i.  325. 

Proaig,  bay,  Kildalton,  ii.  29. 

Prosen,  river,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  131. 

Prospect-Hill,  tunnel,  i.  379. 

Proudfoot,  headland,  Wick,  ii.  610. 

Puidrac,  in  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 

Puip,  Holm  of,  in  Stronsay,  i.  545. 

Pulrossie,  estate,  Criech,  i.  233,  234. 

Pulteney-Town,  Wick,  Caithness,  ii.  395, 
609,  610. 

Pundler's  Know,  Kettle,  ii.  16. 

Purves  Hall,  Eccles,  i.  355. 

Purves-Hill,  farm,  Innerleithen,  i.  56], 

Pyked  Stane,  Kirkurd,  ii.  127. 


Q 


Quaas,  in  Dryfesdale,  i.  296. 
Quaich,  stream,  Dull,  i.  301. 
Quair,  stream,.  Traquair,  ii.  560. 
Quarff.     See  Bressay,  and  also  Burra. 
Quarrelton,  village,   Paisley,   ii.   396 — ii. 

342. 
Quarrelwood,  Kirkmahoe,  ii.  113. 
Quarry,  village,  Killiernan,  ii.  36. 
Quarrywood  Hill,  New  Spynie,  ii.  481,  482. 
Quartachie,  old  parish,  Forfar,  i.  218. 
Quarter,  seat,  Peeblesshire,  ii.  351. 
Quarter  House,  Dunipace,  i.  327. 
Queen  Blearie's  Stone,  Renfrew,  ii.  414. 
Queen  Mary's  Camp,  in  Cathcart,  i.  192. 
Queen's  Bath,  Holyrood,  Edinburgh,  i.  375. 
Queensberry  hill,  Closeburn,  i.  202. 
Queen's  Chair,  The,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  100. 
QUEENSFERRY,  burgh,  Linlithgow,  it. 

396. 
Queensferry,  North,  village,  Fife,  ii.  398. 
Queenside,  loch,  Renfrewshire,  ii.  415. 
Queen's  Isle,  or  Mousa  Isle,  Shetland,,  ii. 

285. 
Queen's  Mire,  Hobkirk,  i.  543. 
Queen's  Road,  in  Forgue,  i.  444. 
Queich,  North,  river,  Orwell,  ii.  334. 
Queich,  South,  river,  Fossoway,  i.  451. 
Quendale,  bay,  Dunrossness,  i.  338. 
Quendall,  barony,  Wandell,  ii.  592. 
Quhyte-Wooleu,  hill,  Dryfesdale,  i.  296. 
Quiech,  castle,  Tannadice,  ii.  528. 
Quien,  loch,  Kingarth,  ii.  74. 
Quinish  Lodge,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  ii. 

55. 
Quiraing,  plain,  Kiliuuir,  ii.  53. 
Quivox,  St.,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  398. 
Quothquan,  village,  Libberton,  ii.  399 — ii. 

176,  177. 
Quytefield,  in  Inverkeillor,  i.  571. 


R 

Rabbit  Islands,  in  Tongue,  ii.  549. 
Rachan,  Broughton,  i.  155. 
Raddery  House,  Rosemarkio,  ii.  42C. 


INDEX. 


Radernie,  lands,  Cameron,  i.  172. 
Rae,  loch,  Lethendy  and  Kinlocli,  ii.  173. 
Raeberry,  castle,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  103. 
Raeburnfoot,  farm,  Eskdalemuir,  i.  407. 
Raecleugh  Head,  Langtou,  ii.  148. 
Raehills,  house,  Johnstone,  i.  589,  590. 
Raemoir,  house,  Banchory-Ternan,  i.  101. 
Raffoed,  parish,  Elgin,  ii.  399 — ii,  82. 
Raigmore,  house,  Inverness,  i.  577- 
Rain,  Old,  village,  Rayne,  ii.  408. 
Rait,  castle,  Nairn,  i.  83. 
Rait,  village,  Kilspindie,  ii.  401— ii.  61. 
Raith,  estate,  Fife,  i.  1  and  2. 
Raitts,  burn,  in  Alvie,  Inverness,  i.  42. 
Ralia,  hamlet,  Kingussie,  ii.  401. 
Ralston  House,  Paisley,  ii.  342. 
Rammerscales,  mansion,  Dalton,  i.  271. 
Ramshorn,  lands,  Glasgow,  i.  483. 
Randolph  Field,  Stirling,  ii.  490. 
Ranfurly  Castle,  Kilbarchan,  ii.  17. 
Rangag,  lake,  Latheron,  ii.  154. 
Range,  Castle,  Dalton,  i.  271. 
Rankeillor,  house,  Fife,  i.  428. 
Rankenshaugh,  lands,  near  Glasgow,  i.  44. 
Rankleburn,  rivulet,  Ettrick,  i.  407. 
Rannaehie,  moor,  Cullen,  i.  244. 
Rannoch,  district,  Perth,  ii.  401 — i.  449. 
Ranza,  loch,  Kilbride,  ii.  21,  22  ;  Kilmorie, 

51. 
Raplock,  village,  Stirling,  ii.  401. 
Rapness,  bay,  Westray,  ii.  600. 
Rarichie,  Wester,  Nigg,  ii.  319. 
Rasay,  island,   Inverness,  ii.  401 — ii.  389, 

390. 
Rasay,  stream,  Contin,  i.  216. 
Rashcrook,  stream,  Birnie,  i.  128. 
Rassay,  island,  Glenelg,  Inverness,  ii.  402. 
Rathad-na-meirlich,  road,   Rothiemurehus, 

ii.  436. 
Rathen,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  402. 
Rathillet,  hamlet,  Kilmany,  ii.  403 — ii.  41. 
Ratho,  parish,  Edinburgh,  ii.  403— i.  510. 
Rathven,  parish,  Banff,  ii.  404. 
Rattray,  in  Crimond,  i.  236,  237. 
Rattray,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  406. 
Ravelrig,  Currie,  i.  257,  258. 
Ravelston,  lands,  Corstorphine,  i.  217,  218. 
Ravencraig,  castle,  Dysart,  i.  347. 
Ravenscraig  Castle,  Peterhead,  ii.  370. 
Ravenstruther,  village,  Carstairs,  ii.  407. 
Rawmone,  in  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 
Raws  of  Noth,  hamlet,  Rhyme  and  Essie, 

ii.  419. 
Rayne,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  408. 
Rea,  lands,  Glasgow,  i.  512. 
Reanlochbervie,  Sutherland.     See  Kean- 

lodiberme. 
Reasknow,  in  Hawick,  i.  539. 
Reawick,  house,  Sandsting   and  Aithsting, 

ii.  451. 
Reay,  parish,  Caithness  and  Sutherland,  ii. 

408. 
Reay  Forest,  Sutherland,  i.  360. 
Red-Beard's  Well,  Durris,  i.  344. 
Redburn,  Blantyre,  i.  136. 
Redburn,  viaduct,  i.  379. 
Redcastle,  in  Inverkeillor,  i.  571. 
Redcastle,  Killiernan,  ii.  36. 
Red  Chapel,  Dunkeld,  i.  330. 
Redden-burn,  Sprouston,  ii.  481. 
Redding,  village,  Stirling,  ii.  410. 
Redding  Moor,  Polmont,  ii.  378. 
Red  Gill,  well,  in  Alvah,  Banff,  i.  41. 
637 


Redgorton,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  410. 
Red-Hall,  castle,  Kirkpatrick-Fleming,   ii. 

123. 
Redhall,  barony,  Colinton,  i.  210. 
Redhall,  residence,  Speymouth,  ii.  479. 
Redhead,  in  Eday,  ii.  519. 
Redhead,  promontory,  Inverkeillor,  i.  571. 
Redholm,  isle,  Orkney,  ii.  411. 
Red  House,  Morton,  ii.  281. 
Redhouse,  castle,  in  Aberlady,  Haddington, 

i.  26. 
Redhyth,  point,  Fordyce,  i.  438. 
Red  Kirk,  Graitney,  i.  516,  517. 
Red  Moss,  Madderty,  ii.  226. 
Red  Moss,  New  Machar,  ii.  226. 
Rednock  House,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  387. 
Redpath,  village,  Earlstoun,  ii.  411 — i.  352. 
Red  Bjver,  in  Uig,  ii.  573. 
Red  Rocks,  in  Dysart,  Fife,  i.  349. 
Redrow,   village,   Newton,   Edinburgh,  ii. 

412. 
Redstone,  Kilwinning,  ii.  66. 
Red-Syke,  in  Biggar,  i.  127. 
Reeky  Lynn,  Lintrathen,  ii.  187. 
Reelick,  mansion,  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 
Reiving-Craig,  Bathgate,  i.  111. 
Relig-Owrau,  in  Iona,  Argyll,  i.  582. 
Relugas  House,  Edinkillie,  i.  393. 
Rendall,  county  of  Orkney.     See  Erie. 
Renfield,  district,  near  Glasgow,  ii.  412. 
RENFREW,  burgh,  Renfrewshire,  ii.  412. 

— ii.  340. 
RENFREWSHIRE,  ii.  414. 
Renny-Hill,  house,  Kilrenny,  ii.  60. 
Renton,  Cardross,  i.  178. 
Renton,  Coldingham,  i.  548,  549. 
Renton,  village,  Dumbarton,  ii.  416. 
Repentance,  Tower  of,  Cummertrees,  i.  252. 
Reres,  hill,  Kilconquhar,  ii.  28. 
Rerigonium,  Wigtonshire,  i.  555. 
Rerwick,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  416. 
Resawrie,  hamlet,  Inverness  parish,  ii.  417. 
Rescobie,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  417. 
Resga,  isle,  Ardnamurchan,  Argyll,  i.  64. 
Resh  Law,  in  Channelkirk,  i.  196. 
Resolis.     See  Kirkmichael  and  Cullicudden. 
Resort,  loch  and  rivulet,  Uig,  ii.  573. 
Restalrig,  village,  South  Leith,  ii.  418 — 

ii.  164. 
Restenneth,  loch,  Lunanhead,  ii.  221. 
Restenneth,  old  parish,  Forfar,  i.  438,  440. 
Resting,  burn,  Urcmhart,  ii.  582. 
Restlaw  Haw,  in  Channelkirk,  i.  196. 
Reston,  village,  Coldingham,  ii.  418— i.  548. 
Reswallie,  residence,  Rescobie,  ii.  417- 
Retreat,  lands,  Longformacus  and  Ellini,  ii. 

212. 
Retreat  Cottage,  Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  ii. 

55. 
Rewcastle,  hamlet,  Bedrule,  ii.  418. 
Rheininver,  loch,  i.  263. 
Rhians,  stream,  Tongue,  ii.  548. 
Rhidorch,  vale,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Rhin,  in  Rogart,  ii.  423. 
Rhind  or  Rhynd,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  418. 
Rhives,  mansion,  Kilmuir  Easter,  ii.  54. 
Rhodes,  in  North  Berwick,  i.  123. 
Rhonehouse,  village,  Kelton,  ii.  419 — ii.  9, 

10. 
Rhuandunan,  in  Bracadale,  i.  151. 
Rhueva,  harbour,  North  Uist,  ii.  574. 
Rhu-Rairnish,  headland,  Lochs  parish,  ii. 

200. 


Rhymer's  Tower,  in  Earlstoun,  i.  352. 
Rhynds,  seat,  Saline,  ii.  447. 
Rhynie  and  Essie,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  419. 
Rhynns  of  Galloway,  ii.  613. 
Riccarton,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  419 — i.  223. 
Ricearton,  seat,  Currie,  i.  258. 
Riddaw,  Loch,  Inverchaolain,  i.  569. 
Riddell,  estate,  Lilliesleaf,  ii.  180. 
Ridings,  farm,  Morton,  ii.  282. 
Ridon,  Loch,  Inverchaolain,  i.  569. 
Riess,  village,  Wick,  ii.  421. 
Riff,  promontory,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Rigfoot,  in  Longformacus  and  Ellim,  ii.  212. 
Rigg,  bay,  Sorbie,  ii.  473,  474. 
Rigg,  village,  Graitney,  i.  517. 
Riggend,  village,  New  Monkland,  ii.  421. 
Righouse,  mansion,  Dreghorn,  i.  291. 
Ring,  intrenchment,  Kirkurd,  ii.  128. 
Ringan  Head,  farm,  Prestonpans,  ii.  394. 
Ringan's,  St.,  Cave,  in  Glasserton,  i.  499. 
Ringans-Dean,  in  Bowden,  i.  150. 
Ringly  Hall,  fortification,  Maxton,  ii.  239. 
Rings,  The,  in  Hounam,  i.  548. 
Ringsdale  Castle,  Stonehouse,  ii.  500. 
Rink,  in  Jedburgh,  i.  588. 
Rinloan,  in  Glengairn,  i.  508. 
Rinmure,  lands,  Kinnell,  ii.  85. 
Rispond,  harbour,  Durness,  i.  343. 
Rissa,  isle,  Orkney,  ii.  421. 
Ristol,  isle,  Lochbroom,  in  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, ii.  421 — ii.  193. 
Roadside,  village,  St.  Cyrus,  ii.  421. 
Roag,  Loch,  Uig,  Ross  and  Cromartv,  ii. 

573. 
Roan,  isle,  Tongue,  Sutherland,  ii.  421. 
Roan,  Loch,  Crossmichael,  i.  242. 
Robertland,  castle,  Stewarton,  ii.  488. 
Roberton,  parish,  Roxburgh  and  Selkirk, 

ii.  421. 
Roberton,  village,  Wiston  and  Roberton, 

ii.  421. 
Robertslin,  in  Hobkirk,  i.  543. 
Robgill  Tower,  Dornock,  i.  287- 
Robin's  Height,  in  Dramblade,  i.  292. 
Robroyston,  loch,  Cadder,  i.  164. 
Robroyston  Moss,  Lanarkshire,  i.  489. 
Rochall  Mount,  Lochmaben,  ii.  199. 
Rochsilloch,  lands,  Old  Monkland,  i.  321. 
Rochsoles,  mansion,  New  Monkland,  ii.  268. 
Rockfield,  village,  Tarbat,  ii.  422. 
Rockhall,  seat,  Mouswald,  ii.  285. 
Rockhill,  house,  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 
Rockville,  house,  North  Berwick,  i.  123. 
Rodil,  in  Harris-,  Inverness,  i.  536. 
Roduey's  Cross,  Dyke  and  Moy,  i.  347- 
Roe,  Little  and  Muckle,  Shetland,  ii.  422. 
Roe,  North,  Northmavine,  ii.  324. 
Rogart,  parish,  Sutherland,  ii.  423. 
Rollox,  St.,  Glasgow,  i.  487,  489. 
Romach,  loch,  Rafford,  ii.  399. 
Romanno,  mansion,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 
Rome,  OH,  in  Dundonald,  i.  320. 
Romua  Stacks,  Northmavine,  Shetland,  ii. 

323. 
Ron,  isle,  Renfrew,  ii.  413. 
Rona,  hill,  Northmavine,  Shetland,  ii.  323, 

324. 
Rona,  isle,  Skye,  Inverness,  ii.  424. 
Ronaldshay,  North,  island,  Orkney,  ii.  424. 
Ronaldshay,  South,  parish,  Orkney,  ii.  424. 
Ronaldson's  Tower,  Kilninver  and  Kilmel- 

ford,  ii.  57. 
Ronan's  Voe,  Northmavine,  ii.  323. 


INDEX, 


Ronat,  isle,  North  Uist,  Inverness,  ii.  425, 

574. 
Ronheads,  fishing-station,  Peterhead,  ii.369. 
Rood  Church,  in  Foveran,  i.  453. 
Roome,  bay,  Crail,  i.  225. 
Rora,  Longside,  ii.  213. 
Rorie,  river,  Rosskeen,  ii.  431. 
Roros,  Glenlyon,  Weem,  ii.  595. 
Roscobie,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 
Rosebank,  house,  Wick,  ii.  611. 
Rosebank,  mansion,  Lasswade,  ii.  429. 
Rosebank,  village,  Dalserf,  ii.  425. 
Rosebery,  barony,  Temple,  ii.  534. 
Rosehall,  in  Criecli,  Sutherland,  i.  234. 
Rosehall,  Kincardine,  ii.  69. 
Rosehall,  in  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 
Rosehaugh,  seat,  Avoch,  i.  83. 
Roseheartt,  burgh,  Aberdeen,  ii.  425 — ii. 

375. 
Roseislehaugh,  seat,  Duffus,  ii.  426. 
Roseisles,  hamlets,  Duffus,  ii.  426. 
Rosemarkie,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 

426— i.  450. 
Rosemount,  mansion,  Symington,  ii.  525. 
Roseneath,  parish,  Dumbarton,  ii.  426. 
Roseness,   headland,  Holm  and  Paplay,  i. 

544. 
Rosetta,  mansion,  Peebles,  ii.  349. 
Rosewell,  village,  Lasswade,  ii.  428,  429. 
Roslin,  burgh,  Edinburgh,  ii.  428. 
Ross,  in  Hamilton,  i.  533,  534. 
Ross,  district,  including  Fife,  i.  427. 
Ross,   district,  Kilfinichen  and  Kilviceuen, 

ii.  32. 
Ross,  fishing-village,  Mordington,  ii.  429 — 

ii.  278. 
Ross,  isle,  Mull  district,  Argyll,  ii.  292. 
Ross,  lands,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  1 17. 
Ross,  village,  Comrie,  ii.  430. 
Ross,  Easter,  district,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 

ii.  430. 
Ross,  Little,  isle,  Borgue,  Kirkcudbright, 

ii.  430— ii.  101. 
ROSS  and  CROMARTY,  ii.  430. 
Ross-Dhu,  Luss,  ii.  222,  223. 
Rossend  Castle,  in  Burntisland,  i.  162. 
Rossie,  house,  Craig,  i.  222. 
Rossie  Loch,  Collessie,  i.  212. 
Rossie,  mansion,  Forgandenny,  i.  443. 
Rossie,  or  Inch-Brayock,  isle,  Forfar,  ii. 

431. 
Rossie  and  Inchture,  Perth.     See  IncUure. 
Rossie  Law,  station,  Dunning,  i.  335. 
Rossie  Priory,  seat,  Longforgan,  ii.  211. 
Rosskeen,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii. 

431— i.  39. 
Ross  Priory,  seat,  Kilmaronock,  ii.  44. 
Rossy,  moor,  Kinnell,  ii.  85. 
Rosyth,  castle,  Inverkeithing,  i.  573. 
Rothes,  Markinch,  ii.  231,  232. 
Rothes,  parish,  Banff  and  Elgin,  ii.  431. 
ROTHESAY,  burgh,  Bute,  ii.  432. 
Rothie  House,  in  Fyvie,  i.  457. 
Rothiemay,  parish,  Banff,  ii.  434. 
Rothiemurchus,  district,  Inverness,  ii.  435. 
Rothmaise,  hill,  Rayne,  ii.  408. 
Rothney,  seat,  Insch,  i.  563. 
Rotmel,  in  Dunkeld,  i.  329,  330. 
Rottearn,  hamlet,  Dunblane,  ii.  436— i.  66. 
Rottenburn,  Blantyrc,  i.  136. 
Roucan,  village,  Torthorwald,  ii.  436. 
Rough  bank,  Beith,  i.  114. 
Rough  Hill,  East  Kilbride,  ii.  23. 
638 


Roughside,  Beith,  i.  1 13. 

Rousay  and  Eagleshay,  parish,  Orkney,  ii. 

436. 
Rousholmhead,  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 
Routing-Bridge,   Kirkpatrick-Irongray,    ii. 

124. 
Row,  parish,  Dumbarton,  ii.  437. 
Rowallan,  Kilmarnock,  ii.  43,  44. 
Rowchester,  house,  Greenlaw,  i.  521. 
Roxrurgh,  parish,  Roxburghshire,  ii.  439 
-ii.  7. 

Roxburgh,  late  quoad  sacra  parish,   Edin- 
burgh, i.  386. 

ROXBURGHSHIRE,  ii.  440. 

Royal  Mill,  Kippen,  ii.  94. 

Royton,  house,  Cramond,  i.  227- 

Ruail,  river,  Kilmodan,  ii.  47. 

Ruardinnan,  ferry,  Luss,  ii.  222. 

Rubberslaw,  hill,  Hobkirk,  i.  543. 

Ruchill,  stream,  Comrie,  i.  215. 

Rudewell,  spring,  Stenton,  ii.  486. 

Ruggy,  hill,  Halkirk,  i.  531. 

Rule,  river,  Bedrule,  i.  112,  113  ;  Hobkirk, 
543. 

Rullion-Green,  Gleneross,  i.  504. 

Rum,  island,  Small  Isles,  Argyll,  ii.  440. 

Rumbleton,  and  Rumbleton-Law,  in  Gor- 
don, i.  513. 

Rumbling  Bridge,  Muckart,  ii.  289. 

Rumford,  village,  Muiravonside,  ii.  441. 

Ru-na-Braddan,  Inverness-shire,  i.  39. 

Runahaorine,   headland,  Killean   and   Kil- 
chenzie,  ii.  34. 

Runrory,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  132. 

Rusco,  house,  Auwoth,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  54. 

Ruskholm,  isle,  Stronsay,  Orkney,  ii.  441. 

Ruskie,  hamlet,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  441. 

Ruskie,  loch,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  387. 

Rutherford,  hamlet,  Maxton,  ii.  441 — ii. 
239. 

Rutherford,  lands,  Linton,  ii.  185. 

RUTHERGLEN,  burgh,  Lanark,  ii.  441. 

Ruthrie,  district,  Aberlour,  Banff,  i.  27,  28. 

Ruthven,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  443. 

Ruthven,  river,  Auchterarder,  i.  77- 

Ruthven  Castle,  Tibbermore,  ii.  539. 

Ruthvenfield,  Tibbermore,  ii.  444,  540. 

Ruthwell,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  444. 

Rutton,  loch,  Lochrutton,  ii.  199. 

Ryan,  Loch,  Wigtonshire,  i.  556,  ii.  508. 

Rye,  river,  Dairy,  i.  266,  267. 

Rysay,  Little,  isle,  Walls  and  Sandness,  ii. 
589. 

Ryval,  ancient  name  of  Ruthwell,  ii.  444. 


Sabhal-mhoir,  mountain,  Eddraehillis,  i.  360. 

Saddel  and  Skipness,  parish,  Argyll,  ii. 
445. 

Saddleyoke,  hill,  Moffat,  ii.  260. 

Sagay,  isle,  Harris,  Inverness,  ii.  446. 

St.  Boswell's.  See  Boswell's,  St.  And  all 
places  liaving  a  similar  distinguishing  prefix 
will  be  found  under  the  proper  name. 

Saintear,  lake,  Westray,  ii.  600. 

Salachie,  loch,  Golspie,  i.  511. 

Salen,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189. 

Salen,  district,  Mull,  Argyll,  ii.  446. 

Salenrua,  bay,  Ardchattan,  ii.  288. 

Salin,  creek,  Ardnamurchan,  Argyll,  i.  64. 

Saline,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  446. 


Salineside,  lands,  Ashkirk,  i.  72. 

Salisbury  Crags,  hill,  Edinburgh,  i.  372, 375. 

Sallysburgh,   village,   Bertram-Shotts,  ii. 
447— i.  119. 

Saloehy,  in  Buchanan,  i.  157. 

Saltburn,  village,  Rosskeen,  ii.  447. 

Saltcoats,  mansion,  Dirleton,  i.  283. 

SALTCOATS,  town,  Ayr.ii.  447-i.  68. 

Salthouse  Head,  Peterhead,  ii.  370. 

Salt-Preston,  Prestonpaus,  ii.  394. 

Salton,  parish,  Haddington,  ii.  447. 

Salton,  East,  village,  Salton,  ii.  448. 

Salton,  West,  village,  Salton  parish,  ii.  449. 

Salt-Stones,  Boindie,  i.  138. 

Salvator's  College.     See  Andrew's,  St. 

Samphrey,  isle,  Mid  and  South  Yell,  Shet- 
land, ii.  449. 

Samuelston,  village,  Gladsmuir,  ii.  449 — i. 
476. 

Sand,  isle,  Small  Isles,  Argyll,  ii.  449. 

Sanda,  isle,  Cantyre,  Argyll,  ii.449, 476,  477- 

Sanda,  isle,  Orkney,  ii.  449 — ii.  424. 

Sandbed,  farm,  Kirkmahoe,ii.  113. 

Sand  End,  in  Cruden,  i.  243. 

Sandend,  village,  Fordyce,  ii.  449. 

Sanderay,  isle,  Inverness.     See  Sandra. 

Sandford,  village,  Stonehouse,  ii.  450,  500. 

Sandhead,  village,  Stoneykirk,  ii.  450. 

Sandhouse,  in  Sandsting  and  Aithsting,  ii. 
451. 

Sand  Inch,  isle,  Renfrew,  ii.  413. 

Sandlaw,  estate,  in  Alvah,  Banff,  i.  41. 

Sand  loch,  Dumfries,  i.  307. 

Sand  Loch,  in  Slains  and  Forvie,  ii.  468. 

Sand  Lodge,  Dunrossness,  Shetland,  ii.  452, 
453. 

Sandness    and    Walls.      See    Walls   and 
Sandness. 

Sandra,  or  Sanderay,  isle,  Barra,  Inver- 
ness, ii.  450. 

Sands,  lands,  Tulliallan,  ii.  562. 

Sands,  The,  Dumfries,  i.  306. 

Sandside  Bay,  Reay  parish,  ii.  409. 

Sandsound  Voe,  Sandsting  and  Aithsting, 
ii.  450. 

Sandsting  and  Aithsting,  parish,  Shetland, 
ii.  450. 

Sandvoe,  harbour,  Sandsting  and  Aithsting, 
ii.  450. 

Sandwick,  bay,  Unst,  ii.  578. 

Sandwick,  isle,  Yell,  Shetland,  ii.  452. 

Sandwick,  parish,  Orkney,  ii.  451. 

Sandwick,  old  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  i.  142. 

Sandwick,  West, residence,  Shetland,  ii.  463. 

Sandwick    and    Cunningsburgh,    district^, 
Shetland,  ii.  452. 

Sandyford,  stream,  Muiravonside,  ii.  290. 

Sandy  Haven,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  22. 

Sandyhills,  village,  near  Glasgow,  ii.  453. 

Sandy  know,  farm,  Smailholm,  ii.  471. 

Sannox,  Kilbride,  ii.  22. 

SANQUHAR,  burgh,  Dumfries,  ii.  453. 

Sanquhar  House,  Forres,  i.  445. 

Sarclet,  village,  Wick,  ii.  454. 

Sark,  stream,  Graitney,  i.  516,  517. 

Sarkfoot,  Graitney,  i.  516. 

Saturness,  headland,  Kirkbean,  ii.  95. 

Sauchenford,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  321. 

Sauchenside,  Edinburghshire,  i.  197- 
Saucher,  hamlet,  Collace,  ii.  454. 
Sauchie,   Stirlingshire,  i.  106  ;  ii.  319,  321, 

322. 
Sauchie,  streamlet,  Kinglassic,  ii.  77- 


INDEX. 


Sauchiebog,  village,  Cambuslang,  ii.  454. 
Sauchieburn,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  319. 
Saucbie  Tower,  Clackmannan,  i.  190. 
Sauchur  Point,  headland,  i.  401. 
Sauchy,  coalfield,  in  Alloa,  Clackmannan,  i. 

38. 
Saugbton,  lands,  Corstorphine,  i.  217,  218. 
Saughton,  New,  Cramond,  i.  227. 
Sanlseat,  abbey,  Inch,  i.  555. 
Savock,  in  New  Deer,  i.  275. 
Saxa-Vord,  in  Unst,  Shetland,  ii.  579. 
Sayrs  Law,  hill,  Longformacus  and  Ellim, 

ii.  212. 
Scallop  Cave,  Island  of  Staffa,  ii.  483. 
Scalloway,  village,  Shetland,  ii.  454,  541. 
Scalpa,  isle,  Skye,  Inverness,  ii.  455. 
Scalpa,  village,  Pomona,  Orkney,  ii.  455. 
Scalpa  Flow,  bay,  Orkney,  ii,  455. 
Scalpay,  island,  Harris,  Inverness,  ii.  455. 
Scalpsie,  bay,  Rothesay,  ii.  434. 
Scamadale,  loch,  Kilniuver  and  Kilmelford, 

ii.  57. 
Scar,  in  Loch  Ryan,  Wigton,  ii.  508. 
Scaraben,  mountain,  Latheron,  ii.  154. 
Scarba,  island,  Argyll,  ii.  455. 
Scarfskerry,  village,  Dunnet,  i.  333. 
Scarlaw,  castle,  Cranshaws,  i.  227. 
Scarnose,  headland,  Cullen,  i.  245. 
Scarp,  isle,  Harris,  Inverness,  ii.  455. 
Searr,  stream,  Penpont,  ii.  35b'. 
Scarry  hills,  Caithness,  i.  166. 
Scarsough,  mountain,  Inverness,  i.  579. 
Scarvy,  isle,  Harris,  Inverness,  ii.  455. 
Sceair  Caristina,  rock,  Kdninian  and  Kil- 

more,  ii.  55. 
Sceir-Mhor,  in  Tiree,  ii.  544. 
Schaw  Pai'k,  Clackmannan,  i.  1 99. 
Schell,  hill,  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  278. 
Sehiehallion,  or  Sith-Chaillinn,  Perthshire, 

ii.  365— i.  448. 
Schivas,  mansion,  Tarves,  ii.  533. 

School  hill,  Aberdeen,  i.  10,  18. 

Scirrival,  Barra,  i.  107. 

Scobbach  House,  Turriff,  ii.  567. 

Scoltie,  hill,  Strachan,  ii.  504. 

Scone,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  455. 

Scone-Lethendy,  lands,  Perth,  ii.  303. 

Scoonie,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  457. 

Scoonie-Burn,  hamlet,  Scoonie  parish,  ii. 
458. 

Scotland-Well,  village,  Portmoak,  ii.  458. 

Scotsburn,  mansion,  Logie-Easter,  ii.  208. 

Scotscraig,    lands,    Ferryport-on-Craig,    i. 
422,  423. 

Scotstown,  in  Renfrew  parish,  ii.  413,  414. 

Scotstown,  estate,  Auchterhouse,  i.  80. 

Scotstown,  seat,  Peeblesshire,  ii.  351. 

Scotstown  Craig,  St.  Fergus,  i.  421. 

Scoulag,  bay,  Kingarth,  ii.  74. 

Scour-Choinich,  mountain,  Argyll,  i.  65. 

Scourie,   village,   Eddrachillis,  ii.    458 — i. 
300,  361. 

Scour-na-lapich,  mountain,  Kilmoraek,  ii.  49. 

Scousburgh,  loch,  Dunrossness,  i.  338. 

Scouthel,  in  Watten,  ii.  594. 

Scow,  Kyle  of,  Sutherland,  i.  360,  301. 

Serabster  Roads,  Thurso,  ii.  538. 

Screll,  hill,  Rerwick,  ii.  410. 

Scribhisbheinn,  mountain,  Durness,  i.  342. 

Scriden,  loch,  Isle  of  Mull,  ii.  292. 

Scrogiehill,  hamlet,  Methven,  ii.  458. 

Scroulach,  mountain,  Strathdon,  ii.  512. 

Sculomy,  creek,  Tongue,  ii.  549. 
639 


Scur-Dhoniel,  mountain,  Argyll,  i.  65. 
Scurr  Hill,  Balmerino,  Fife,  i.  98. 
Scurt,  in  Harris,  i.  536. 
Scur-uran,  in  Glenshiel,  i.  510. 
Scuttrie,  in  Leocbel  and  Cushnie,  ii.  107- 
Sea-Bank,  estate,  Stevenston,  ii.  487. 
Sea-Cliffe  House,  Whitekirk,  ii.  605. 
Seafields,  lands,  New  Spynie,  ii.  481. 
Seafield  Church,  Rathven,  ii.  385. 
Seaforth,  loch,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 
Seaforth  Lodge,  Stornoway  parish,  Lewis, 

ii.  503. 
Sea-Greens,  in  St.  Cyrus,  i.  259. 
Seal   Cave,  in  Stornoway  parish,  Lewis,  ii. 

503. 
Seale's  Bridge,  Perthshire,  i.  353. 
Sea  Mab,  eminence,  Muckart,  ii.  288. 
Seapark,  mansion,  Kinloss,  ii.  83. 
Seaside-Place,  in  Aberdour,  Fife,  i.  24. 
Seaton,  seat,  St.  Vigean's,  ii.  587. 
Seaton,  Kirktown  of,  now  Old  Aberdeen,  i.  7- 
Seaton  Hill,  in  Gladsmuir,  i.  476. 
Seaton  House,  Tranent,  ii.  390. 
Sea-town,  Banff,  i.  104. 
Sea-town,  Cullen,  i.  244,  245. 
Seatown  of  Delnies,  hamlet,  Nairn,  ii.  459. 
Seedhill,  Paisley,  ii.  343. 
Seggie,  Leuchars,  ii.  174. 
Seggiecrook,  in  Grange,  i.  518. 
Seggieden  House,  Kinfauns,  ii.  73. 
Seil,  island,   Kilbrandon,  Argyll,  ii.  459 — 

ii.  19. 
Seirach,  loch,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Selivoe,  harbour,  Sandsting  and  Aithsting, 
ii.  450. 

SELKIRK,  burgh,  Roxburgh  and  Selkirk, 
ii.  459. 

SELKIRKSHIRE,  ii.  460. 

Seresort,  loch,  Rum  island,  ii.  441. 

Serf,  St.,  island,  Kinross,  ii.  90,  91. 

Serf's,  St.,  ancient  parish,  Redgorton,  ii.  410. 

Servanus,  Portmoak,  ii.  384. 

Seton  Tower,  in  Fyvie,  i.  457- 

Seutter,  hamlet,  Fair,  i.  411. 

Shadir,  in  Barvas,  i.  10.9. 

Shaggy,  river,  Crieff,  i.  235. 

Shaint,  isles,  Lochs  parish,  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, ii.  461. 

Shambelly,  lands,  Newabbey,  ii.  304. 

Shandon,  hill,  Row  parish,  ii.  438. 

Shandwick,  mansion,  Logie  Easter,  ii.  208. 

Shandwick,  village,  Nigg  parish,  ii.  461 — 
ii.  319. 

Shank  Point,  Borthwiek,  i.  145. 

Shankston,  loch,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  115. 

Shantron,  hill,  Dumbartonshire,  i.  304. 

Shanwell,  estate,  Orwell,  ii.  334. 

Shauwilly  Point,  in  Little  Cumbray,  i.  251. 

Shapinshay,  isle,  Orkney,  ii.  461. 

Shaw,  The,  Ardclach,  Nairn,  i.  63. 

Shawfield,  near  Glasgow,  i.  481,  ii.  442. 

Shawhead,   village,  Kirkpatrick-Irongray, 
ii.  462— ii.  125. 

Shaw  Hill,  mansion,  Riccarton,  ii.  421. 

Shaw  Park  House,  in  Alloa,  Clackmannan, 
i.  38. 

Shaws,  lake,  Ashkirk,  i.  72. 

Shaw's  Water,  Greenock,  i.  522. 

Sheader,  farm,  Snizort,  Skye,  ii.  473. 

Shean,  in  Ardchattau,  i.  61,  62. 

Sheardale,  near  Dollar,  i.  283. 

Shebster,  in  Reay  parish,  ii.  409. 

Sheddocksley,  house,  Newhills,  ii.  310. 


Shedog,  in  Kilmorie,  ii.  52. 
Sheelngreen,  in  Culsamond,  i.  273. 
Sheep,  isle,  Southend,  Argyll,  ii.  462. 
Sheep  Craig,  in  Fair,  Shetland,  i.  411. 
Sheepford,  near  Glasgow,  i.  488. 
Sheilhouse,  rivulet,  Morton,  ii.  282. 
Shelky-Skerry,   rocks,  North   Ronaldshay, 

Orkney,  ii.  424. 
Shell,  Inch,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 
Shelliva,  loch,  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 
Shelter-stone,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  116. 
Shenwell,  farm,  Cabrach,  i.  163. 
Sheomar-na-Staing,  in  Fortingal,  i.  449. 
Sheriff-Hall,  near  Dalkeith,  i.  262. 
Sheriffhall-Engine,   hamlet,  Newton,  ii. 

462. 
Sheriff  Muir,  near  Dunblane,  i.  314. 
Sheriff's  Knowe,  in  Yarrow,  ii.  619. 
Sheriffsmuir,  moor,  Stobo,  ii.  499. 
Sherrington,  village,  Dumfries,  i.  164. 
Sheshernieh,  loch,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  118. 
SHETLAND  Islands,  ii.  462. 
Shettleston,  district,  near  Glasgow,  ii.  464. 
Shevoek,  rivulet,  Premnay,  ii.  392. 
Shewalton,  village,  Dundonald,  ii.  464 — i. 

320. 
Shiach,  burn,  Dun-is,  i.  344. 
Shian,  residence,  Kenmore,  ii.  12,  13. 
Shiehallion,  in  Perthshire.    See  Sehiehallion. 
Shiel,  loch  and  river,  Ardnamurchan,  Ar- 
gyll, i.  65,  66. 
Shiel,  river  and  loch,   Glenshiel,  Ross  and 

Cromarty,  i.  510. 
Shield,  lands,  Ochiltree,  ii.  327. 
Shieldag,  district,  Ross   and  Cromarty,  ii. 

464— i.  54,  55. 
Shieldhill,  lands,  Libberton,  ii.  177- 
Shieldhill,  village,  Kinneff,  ii.  84. 
Shields,  lands,  Govan,  i.  514. 
Shields,  lands,  St.  Quivox,  ii.  398. 
Shielhill,  Polmont,  ii.  379. 
Shielhill,  seat,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  132. 
Shielhouse,  in  Glenshiel,  i.  510. 
Shiellsburn,  Coldingham,  i.  209. 
Shielswood,  loch,  Ashkirk,  i.  72. 
Shin,  Loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
Shin,  river,  Lairg,  ii.  140. 
Shineach,  loch,  Kilmichael-Glassary,  ii.  47. 
Shinnel,  river,  Tynron,  ii.  570. 
Shira,  stream,  Inverary,  i.  506. 
Shirgarton,  hamlet,  K'ppen,  ii.  465. 
Shirva,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 
Shirva,  hamlet,  in  Fair,  i.  411. 
Shisken,  vale,  Kilmorie,  ii.  52. 
Shoehie,  river,  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 
Shona,  isle,  Ardnamurchan,  Inverness,  ii. 

405— i.  64. 
Shonaveg,  isle,  Ardnamurchan,  Inverness, 

ii.  405. 
Shotts,  Lanark.     See  Bertram-Shotts. 
Shuna,  isle,  Kilbrandon,  Argyll,  ii.  405. 
Shuna,  sound,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  189. 
Shuna  Castle,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  190. 
Shurery,  loch,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Si'am-na-Rapaich,   mountain,  Morvern,  ii. 

283. 
Sibbaldbie,  Dumfries.     See  Applegarth  and 

Sibbaldbie,  ii.  405. 
Sidlaw  Hills,  i.  440,  ii.  305. 
Sight  Hill,  Muiravonside,  ii.  290. 
Sibbister,  district,  Lady  parish,  Orkney,  ii. 

138. 
Sillyearn,  hill,  Grange,  i.  518. 


INDEX. 


Silverbanks,  village,  Cambuslang,  ii.  465. 
Silver-Craigs  House,  Glasgow,  i.  481,  484. 
Silver  Rock,  hill,  Golspie,  i.  511. 
Silver  Wells,  in  Walston,  ii.  590. 
Simprim,  Berwick.     See  Siciiiton. 
Sinclair,  castle,  Wick,  Caithness,  ii.  610. 
Sinclair,  estate,  Dysart,  i.  200. 
Sinclair  bay,  Caithness,  i.  166. 
Sinclairton,  Fife.     See  ClaiHown,  St.,  and 

Patlihead. 
Sinnahard,  in  Towie,  ii.  558. 
Sir  Robert's  Prap,  Newburgh,  ii.  309. 
Sisters'  Land,  in  Aberdour,  Fife,  i.  24. 
Sithain-a-Charra,  Kincardine,  ii.  68. 
Six  Ploughs,  Methlick,  ii.  249. 
Ska,  islet,  in  Unst,  Shetland,  ii.  578. 
Skae,  Loch,  Balmaelellan,  i.  95. 
Skateraw,  hamlet,  Innerwick,   ii.   465 — i. 

562,  563. 
Skea,  hills,  Westray,  ii.  600. 
Skeen,  loch,  Moffat,  ii.  261. 
Skeilay,  isle,  Harris,  Inverness,  ii.  465. 
Skelberry,  loch,  Dunrossness,  i.  338. 
Skelbo,  ruins,  Sutherland,  i.  287. 
Skeld,  voes,  Sandsting  and  Aithsting,  ii.  450. 
Skeldaquoy,  headland,  Holm  and  Paplay,  i. 

544. 
Skeldon,  lands,  Dalrymple,  i.  268,  269. 
Skellater,  house,  Strathdon,  ii.  513. 
Skelmurly  Castle,  Largs,  ii.  152. 
Skene,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  465. 
Skeoch,  St.,  in  Craig,  i.  222. 
Skeotisway,  isle,  Harris,  Inverness,  ii.  466. 
Skerray,  Tongue,  ii.  548,  550. 
Skerrington,  lands,  Ricearton,  ii.  420. 
Skerries,  isles,  Shetland,  ii.  466. 
Skerroch,  loch,  Girthon,  i.  473. 
Skerry,  Muclcle,  Skerries,  Shetland,  ii.  466. 
Skerry  of  Vasa,  Shapinshay,  Orkney,  ii.  461. 
Skeiraw,  village,  Fetteresso,  ii.  466— i.  426. 
Skiack,  loch,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 
Skiaek,  river,  Kiltearn,  ii.  64. 
Skiakid,  village,  Tongue,  ii.  466. 
Skibo,  castle,  Sutherland,  i.  286. 
Skid-N'uir,  source  of  the  Forth,  Perth,  i.25. 
Skilmoney,  hill,  Methlick,  ii.  250. 
Skiltiemuir,  hamlet,  Coekpen,  ii.  466. 
Skimmer  Hill,  Salton,  ii.  448. 
Skinnet,  old  parish,  Caithness,  i.  530,  531. 
Skip.ness,  county  of  Argyll.     See  Saddell. 
Skiport,  loch,  South  Uist,  ii.  5/6. 
Skirdustan,  parish,  Banff,  i.  27. 
Skirling,  parish,  Peebles,  ii.  466. 
Skirsa-head,  Canisbay,  i.  175. 
Skree],  hill,  Kelton,  ii.  9. 
Skye,  Isle  of,  Inverness,  ii.  467- 
Slack,  burn,  Kelton,  ii.  9. 
Slain  Men's  Lee,  Selkirk  parish,  ii.  459. 
Slai.ns  and  Forvie,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii. 

468. 
Slains  Castle,  Cruden,  i.  243,  244. 
Slam,  loch,  Tongue,  ii.  548. 
Si.amaxnan,  parish,  Stirling,  ii.  469. 
Slapan,  Loch,  in  Strath,  ii.  509. 
Slateford,  village,  Colinton,ii.  470 — i.211. 

379. 
Slateford,  village,  Edzcll,  ii.  470. 
Sleat  or  Slate,  parish,  Skye,  ii.  470. 
Sledmuir,  hamlet,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  471. 
Sleitill,  loch,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Sliabhach,  mountain,  Gairloch,  i.  458. 
Sliabh-Ghaoil,  hill, Soutli  Kuapdalc,  ii.  134. 
Sliach,  in  Drumbladf,  i.  292. 
640 


Sligichan,  Loch,  Portree,  ii.  389. 

Slioch,  mountain,  Gairloch,  i.  458. 

Slipperfield,  Lintou,  ii.  185. 

Slitrig,  river,  Cavers,  i.  1 93  ;  Hawick,  538, 
539. 

Sloe-an-leim,  in  Gigha  and  Cara,  i.  471 . 

Slohabert,  hamlet,  Kirkinner,  ii.  471. 

Slough-Ends,  range,  Cumbray,  i.  251. 

Sloy,  loch,  Arrochar,  i.  304. 

Sluggan,  in  Duthil,  Elgin,  i.  345. 

Sluie,  in  Edinkillie,  i,  392. 

Smaddy,  loch,  Crossmichael,  i.  242. 

Smailholm,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  471. 

Small  Glen,  pass,  Monzie,  ii.  276. 

Smallholm,  hamlet,  Lochraaben,  ii.  471  • 

Small  Isles,  bay,  Jura,  i.  591. 

Small  Isles,  parish,  Argyll  and  Inverness, 
ii.  471. 

Small  Waters,  lochs,  Unst,  ii.  578. 

Smeaton  House,  Prestonkirk,  ii.  393. 

Smithston  House,  Tarbolton,  ii.  530. 

Smithtown  of  Culloden,  hamlet,  Inverness, 
ii.  472. 

Smithyhaugh,  village,  Auchterarder,  ii.  472. 

Smo,  cavern,  Durness,  i.  343. 

Smyllum,  mansion,  Lanark,  ii.  143. 

Snab,  lands,  Borrowstounness,  i.   144. 

Snaid,  in  Glencairn,  i.  546. 

Snaigow  House,  in  Caputh,  i.  177- 

Snar,  stream,  Crawfordjohn,  i.  231. 

Snawburgh,  in  Fetlar  and  North  Yell,  i.  424. 

Snelsetter,  house, Walls  aud  Sandness,  ii.590. 

Snipe,  loch,  Dalrymple,  i.  268. 

Snizort,  parish,  Skye,ii.  472. 

Snoassumul,  isle,  Barra,  Inverness,  ii.  473. 

Snow  Tower,  Kildrummy,  ii.  31. 

Snusgar,  castle,  Sandwick,  ii.  452. 

Soat,  isle,  Assynt,  Sutherland,  ii.  473. 

Soay,  island,  Bracadale,  Skye,ii.473 — i.  151. 

Soay,  isle,  Tiree  and  Coll,  ii.  544. 

Soccach,  mountain,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 

Soccoch,  Hills,  in  Towie,  ii.  557. 

Society,  bay,  in  Abercorn,  Linlithgow,  i.  4. 

Softlaw,  lands,  Kelso,  ii.  239. 

Soleburn,  stream,  Leswalt,  ii.  172. 

Solway  Frith,  Dumfries-shire,  i.  516. 

Somerside,  in  L:berton,  Edinburgh,  i.  473. 

Sonachan  House,  Kilchrenan  aud  Dalavich, 
ii.  27. 

Soreie,  parish,  Wigton,  ii.  473. 

Sordal,  hill,  Bower,  i.  150. 

Soriby,  bay,  Kilninian,  ii.  577- 

Sorn,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  474. 

Sornhill,  village,  Ricearton,  ii.  475. 

Soules  Cross,  Kilmarnock,  ii.  44. 

Soulseat,  abbey,  Inch,  i.  555. 

Soul-Skerry,  isle,  Stromness,  Orkney,  ii. 
475. 

Sound,  ancient  parish,  Tingwall,  ii.  541. 

Souters,  North  and  South,  Ross  and  Cro- 
marty, i.  238. 

Souterhouse,  in  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 

South  Bridgend.  See  Eridijend,  South.  And 
all  places  luiming  a  similar  distinyuhlih>:i 
prefix  will  be  found  under  the  proper  name. 

Southanan,  sands,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 

Southbarr,  estate,  Inchinnan,  i.  558. 

South-Bay,  North  Ronaldshay,  Orkney,  ii. 
424. 

South-Burn,  Lauder,  ii.  156. 

Southdean,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  475. 

Southend,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  476. 

Southfield,  house,  Gladsmuir,  i.  476. 


Southfield,  house,  Liberton,  ii.  178. 

Southfield,  residence,  Auchtermuchty,  i.  81. 

Southfield,  seat,  Mearns,  ii.  242. 

Southhall,  mansion,  Inverehaolain,  i.  569. 

South-Head,  headland,  Peterhead,  ii.  370. 

Southmuir,  village,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  478. 

South  Parish.     See  Aberdeen. 

Southwick,  Kirkcudbright.  See  Colvend 
and  Southwick. 

Soutra,  Haddington.   See  Fala  and  Soutra. 

Soutra  hill,  in  Channelkirk,  i.  196. 

Soy,  loch,  Portsoy,  ii.  391. 

Spalander,  loch,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  115. 

Spalander,  stream,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  115. 

Spa  Well,  Woolman  hill,  Aberdeen,  i.  12. 

Spean,  river,  Kilmoniraig,  ii.  48. 

Speddoch,  in  Holywood,  i.  547. 

Spedlin's  Tower,  Lochmaben,  ii.  199. 

Speedy  Hill,  in  Auehtergaven,  i.  79. 

Spelve,  loch,  Torosay,  ii.  551. 

Spey,  river,  Aberlour,  i.  27,  28;  Elgin- 
shire, 400  ;  Fochabers,  434  ;  Inveraven, 
567  >  Kingussie,  ii.  81. 

Speymouth,  parish,  Elgin,  ii.  478. 

Spinningdale,  in  Criech,  i.  234. 

Spital,  hamlet,  Killieman,  ii.  36. 

Spittal,  farm-house,  Penieuick,  ii.  352. 

Spittal,  hill,  Edinburghshire,  i.  391. 

Spittal,  hill,  Halkirk,  i.  531 . 

Spittalfield,  village,  Caputh,  ii.  479. 

Spittal  Hill,  in  Cambuslang,  i.  170. 

Spittal  House,  Hutton,  i.  553. 

Spott,  parish,  Haddington,  ii.  479. 

Spottes,  seat,  Urr,  ii.  585. 

Spottiswoode,  lands,  Westruther,  ii.  602— 
i.  512. 

Springfield,  in  Dalmeny,  i.  266. 

Springfield,  estate,  Penieuick,  ii.  353. 

Springfield,  hill,  Dunscore,  i.  339. 

Springfield,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 

Springfield,  seat,  St.  Vigean's,  ii.  587. 

Springfield,  village,  Cupar,  Fife,  ii.  480. 

Springfield,  village,Graitney,ii.480 — i.  517. 

Springfield  House,  Lasswade,  ii.  153,  154. 

Spring-Garden,  district,  Aberdeen,  ii.  480. 

Spring-Hill,  seat,  Douglas,  i.  288. 

Springhill,  mansion,  Newhills,  ii.  310. 

Springholji,  village,  Urr,  ii.  480. 

Springkell,  mansion,  Kirkpatrick-Fleming, 
ii.  124. 

Springvale,  near  Glasgow,  i.  489. 

Springwood,  mansion,  Kelso,  ii.  8. 

Sprouston,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  480. 

Spurness,  headland,  Sanda,  Orkney,  ii.  449. 

Spynie,  loch,  Drainie,  i.  290. 

Spynie,  New,  parish,  Elgin,  ii.  481. 

Squaretown,  hamlet,  Newton,  Edinburgh, 
ii.  482. 

Sruthan-nan-Ceann,  stream,  Argyll,  ii.  544. 

Stac,  Loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 

Stac,  mountain,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 

Stacks  of  Duncansbay,  Caithness,  i.315. 

Stadaig,  promontory,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 

Staffa,  island,  Argyll,  ii.  482. 

Stags,  rocks,  Durness,  i.  343. 

Staik,  hill,  Kilbirnie,  ii.  18. 

Stair,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  483. 

Stair-Bridge,  in  Tarbolton,  Ayr,  ii.  531. 

Stake,  hill,  Largs,  ii.  151. 

Standing-Stones,  Glenterra,  Inch,  i.  556. 

STANE,village,Cambusnethan,  ii.  484— i.  17 1. 

Stanhope-Mills,  village,  Corstorphine,  i.  218. 

Stanley,  burn,  Ardrossan,  Ayr,  i.  68. 


INDEX. 


Stanley,  district  and  village,  Perth,  ii.  484 
— i.  78,  79. 

Stanley  Castle,  Paisley,  ii.  344. 

Stanley  Know,  in  Clunie,  i.  204. 

Stannachy  Ford,  Brechin,  i.  152. 

Stanrig,  in  Muiravonside,  ii.  290. 

Stanstill,  in  Bower,  i.  150. 

Staplegorton,  old  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  530. 

Stapleton,  in  Dornock,  i.  287. 

Starly  burn,  Burntisland,  i.  161. 

Starr,  village,  Fife,  ii.  485. 

Starryhaugh,  in  Enzie,  i.  403. 

Start,  headland,  Orkney,  ii.  138. 

Starthope  Hill,  Wande'll,  ii.  593. 

Staxigo,  village,  Wick,  ii.  485. 

Steeds  Stalls,  in  Clunie,  i.  203. 

Stein,  hamlet,  Duirinish,  ii.  485,  594. 

Steinscholl,  district,  Skye,  ii.  485. 

Stempster,  lake,  Latheron,  ii.  154. 

Stempster  House,  in  Bower,  i.  150. 

Stenhouse,  lands,  Tynron,  ii.  570. 

Stenhouse  Muir,  village,  Stirling,  ii.  485. 

Stenness,  county  of  Orkney.     See  Firth. 

Stenness,  isle,  Northmavine,  Shetland,  ii.  486. 

Stennies,  fishery  station,  Northmavine,  ii. 
324. 

Stennis,  stream,  Westerkirk,  ii.  598. 

Stenton,  parish,  Haddington,  ii.  486. 

Stepping-Stones,  Glenterra,  i.  556. 

Stevenson,  stream,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 

Stevenston,  seat,  Haddington,  i.  528. 

Stevenston,  town,  Ayr,  ii.  486. 

Stewartfield,  house,  Jedburgh,  i.  587,  588. 

Stewarton,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  487. 

Stew  arton  and  Wishawton,  village,  Lanark, 
ii.  489. 

Stewartown,  village,  Kirkcolm,  ii.  99. 

Stewarts-Raiss,  tower,  Paisley,  ii.  344. 

Sticks,  district,  Weem,  ii.  595. 

Stinehar,  river,  Barr,  i.  106. 

Stirches,  house,  Wilton,  ii.  615. 

Stircoke,  vale,  Wick,  ii.  610,  611. 

Stirkrigg,  Bedrule,  i.  113. 

STIRLING,  burgh,  Stirlingshire  ;  history, 
ii,  489  ;  notice  of  the  Castle,  491  ;  de- 
scription of  the  town,  492  ;  trade  and 
manufactures,  492  ;  municipal  affairs, 
493  ;  parish,  493  ;  ecclesiastical  affairs, 
schools,  &c.j  494.     See  also  i.  365. 

Stirliughill,  Peterhead,  ii.  370. 

STIRLINGSHIRE,  ii.  495. 

Stirling's  Tower,  Edzell,  i.  395. 

Stitchell  and  Hume,  parish,  Roxburgh  and 
Berwick,  ii.  497. 

Stob-an-Daimh,  mountain,  Glenorchy,  i.  5C9. 

Stobbsmills,  village,  Borthwick  and  Temple, 
ii.  498,  535. 

Stobcross,  lands,  near  Glasgow,  i.  44. 

Stobhall,  in  Cargill,  i.  179,  180. 

Stobhill,  village,  Newbattle,  ii.  498. 

Stobhill-Engine,  hamlet,  Cockpen,  ii.  498. 

Stobo,  parish  Peebles,  ii.  498. 

Stobs,  in  Cavers,  i.  193,  194. 

Stocket,  forest,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  7,  8. 

Stockiemuir,  Drymen,  i.  296. 

Stoer  or  Store,  district,  Sutherland,  ii.  499. 

Stonebyres,  seat,  Lesmahago,  ii.  171. 

Stonebyres,  waterfall,  Lanark,  ii.  143. 

Stone  Castle,  Irvine,  i.  584. 

Stonefield,  bay,  Muckairn,  ii.  288. 

Stonefield,  village,  Blantyre,  ii.  499. 

STONEHAVEN,  burgh,  Kincardine,  ii.  499. 

Stonehill,  in  Carmichael,  i.  181. 
Vol.  I.— 641 


Stone-house,  Castle,  Kirkpatrick  -  Fleming, 

i.  23. 
Storehouse,  parish,  Lanark,  ii.  500. 
Stonelaw,  Rutherglen,  ii.  442. 
Stone  Lude,  in  Bower,  i.  150. 
Stone  Mill,  St.  Fergus,  i.  422. 
Stone  of  Odin,  Shapinshay,  Orkney,  ii.  462. 
Stone  of  the  Burying-ground,  Nigg,  ii.  319. 
Stoneridge,  house,  Eccles,  i.  355. 
Stoneyhill,  hamlet,  Inveresk,  ii.  501— ii. 

271. 
Stoneyhill  House,  in  Inveresk,  i.  570. 
Stoneykirk,  parish,  Wigton,  ii.  501. 
Stoneypath,  Whittingham,  ii.  608. 
Stoneywood,  mill,  Aberdeen,  i.  1 3. 
Stonypath,  lands,  Dolphinton,  i.  285. 
Store,  Sutherland.     See  Stoer. 
Stormont,  loch,  Blairgowrie,  i.  135. 
Stormont,  plain,  Perth,  i.  177. 
Stormontfield,  Scone  parish,  ii.  457. 
Stornoway,  in  Kilcalmonell  and  Kilberry,  ii. 

25. 
STORNOWAY,  burgh,  island  of  Lewis,  ii. 

502. 
Storr,  mountainous  ridge,  Skye,  ii.  472. 
Stotfield,  village,  Drainie,  ii.  503— i.  397, 

ii.  215. 
Stourholm,  isle,  Northmavine,  Shetland,  ii. 

503. 
Stove,  bay,  Cross  and  Burness,  i.  240. 
Stow,  parish,  Edinburgh  and   Selkirk,  ii. 

503. 
Strachan,  parish,  Kincardine,  ii.  504. 
Stracathro,  seat,  Strickathrow,  ii.  517. 
Strachur  and  Strachlachi.an,  parish,  Ar- 
gyll, ii.  505— ii.  195. 
Strachurmore,  house,  in  Strachur,  ii.  505. 
Strafontane,  district,  Abbey  St.  Bathan's,  i. 

110. 
Strageath,  Perthshire,  i.  236. 
Straiton,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  506. 
Straloch,  lands,  New  Machar,  ii.  225,  226. 
Straxathro,  village,  Fetteresso,  ii.  507 — i- 

426. 
Strand,  bay,  in  Fetlar,  i.  423,  424. 
Stranduff,  residence,  Kincardine  O'Neil,  ii. 

71. 

STRANRAER,  burgh,  Wigton,  ii.  508— i. 

556. 
Strath,  parish,  Inverness,  ii.  509. 
Strath-Aen,  Strachan  parish,  ii.  504. 
Strathaird,  lands,  in  Strath,  ii.  509. 
Strathalladale,  vale,  Reay,  ii.  409. 
Strathallan,  Perthshire,  i.  314. 
Strathardle,  district,  Moulin,  ii.  284. 
Strathaven,  district,  Banffshire,  i.  105. 
STRATH  AVEN,  town,  Lanarkshire,  ii.  510 

— i.  84. 
Strathban,  in  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 
Strath-Beg,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Strathbeg,  glen,  Lochbroom,  ii.  193. 
Strathbeg,  loch,  Aberdeenshire,  i.   236,  ii. 

214. 
Strathblane,   parish,  Stirling,   ii.   510 — i. 

515. 
Strathbogie,  Aberdeenshire,  i.  22,  165. 
Strathbogie  Castle,  Huntly,  i.  551,  552. 
Strathbran,  district,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 
Strathbrock,  ancient  parish,  Uphall,  ii.  580. 
Strathbrora,  vale,  i.  204,  ii.  423. 
Strathbuxgo,  village,  Glasgow,  ii.  512. 
Strathearron,  district,  Ross  and  Cromarty, 

ii.  430. 


Strathceannard,  vale,  Lochbroom,  ii.  192. 
Strathclyde,  i.  302. 

Strathconon,  county  Ross.     See  Carnoch. 
Strathdearn,  Nairnshire,  ii.  299. 
Strathdighty,  in  Mains  and  Strathmartine, 

ii.  228. 
Strath-Diuard,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Strathbon,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  512. 
Strath-Doveran,  Banffshire,  i.  105. 
Strathearn,  Perth,  i.  453. 
Strath-Echaig,  in  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,    i. 

337. 
Strath-Endrick,  Stirling,  i.  296,  297. 
Strathendry,  seat,  Leslie,  ii.  170. 
Strath-Fenella,  in  Fordoun,  i.  436. 
Strathfillan,  district,  Argyll  and  Perth, 

ii.  514. 
Strathfleet,  vale,  Rogart,  ii.  423. 
Strathgartney,  estate,  Perthshire,  i.  37. 
Strath-Glass,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  63,  64. 
Strathgryfe,  vale,  Renfrewshire,  ii.  415. 
Strath-Herric,  in  Boleskine,  i.  139. 
Strathkinness,   village,   St.   Andrew's,  ii. 

514— i.  48. 
Strath-Leven,  seat,  Dumbartonshire,  i.  304. 
Strathmartine,  Forfar.     See  Mains. 
Strathmiglo,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  514. 
Strathmore,  vale,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Strathmore,  vale,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  130. 
Strathnairn,   in   Daviot   and   Dunlichty,  i. 

273. 
Strath-na-Sealg,  mountains,  Lochbroom,  ii. 

192. 
Strathnaver,  valley,  Farr,  i.  418,  419. 
Strath-Oikell,  Kincardine,  ii.  68. 
Strathpeffer,  in  Fodderty,  i.  281,  434. 
Strathrathy,  valley,  Farr,  i.  418. 
Strathrusdale,  vale,  Rosskeen,  ii.  431. 
Strath-Swordale,  parish,  Inverness,  ii.  509. 
Strath-Tay,  Logierait,  ii.  210. 
Strath y,  district,  Fai-r,  ii.  515. 
Strathyre,  village,  Balquhidder,  ii.  515. 
Stravanan,  bay,  Kingarth,  ii.  74. 
Straven,  Loch,  Inverchaolain,  i.  568. 
Stravithy,  castle,  Dunino,  i.  326. 
Stream  Sound,  Bressay,  i.  153. 
Strelitz,  village,  Cargill,  ii.  515. 
Strettum,  brae,  Lumphanan,  ii.  219. 
Strichex,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  515. 
Strickathrow,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  516. 
String,  lake,  Kiluinver  and  Kilmelford,  ii. 

57. 
Striven,  Loch,  Argyll.     See  Straven. 
Striviling,  now  Stirling,  ii.  489. 
Strom,  loch,  Whiteness,  ii.  542. 
Stroma,  island,  Canisbay,  ii.  517. 
Stromay,  isle,  Harris,  ii.  517. 
Strome,  Lochcarron,  ii.  193. 
STROMNESS,  burgh,  Orkney,  ii.  518. 
Stron,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 
Stronehavie,  farm,  Moulin,  ii.  285. 
Stronchrubie,  farm,  in  Assynt,  i.  73. 
Stronfernan,  village,  Kenmore,  ii.  519. 
Stronmilchan,  farm,  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 
Stronriggan,  stream,  Dairy,  i.  267. 
Stronsay    and   Eday,   parish,   Orkney,   ii. 

519. 
Stronshira,  headland,  Inverary,  i.  566. 
Strontiax,  district,  Ardnamurchan,  ii.  520. 
Stroquhan,  estate,  Dunscore,  i.  339. 
Strowan,old  parish,  Blair- Atholl,  i.  132, 133 
Strowan,  Perthshire.     See  Monimirrl  and 
Stroican. 

4N 


INDEX. 


struie,  hiU,  Edderton,  i.  359. 

Struthers,  old  seat,  Ceres,  i.  195. 

Stray,  house,  Kiltarlity,  ii.  64. 

Stuartfield,  village,  Old  Deer,  ii.  521. 

Stuartown,  village,  Pettie,  ii.  521. 

Stuekrogert,  lands,  Luss,  ii.  222. 

Succoch,  liill,  Leochel  and  Cushnie,  ii. 
166. 

Suddy,  Ross  and  Cromarty.  See  Knock- 
bain. 

Suidhe-Chatain,  hill,  Kingarth,  ii.  74. 

Suie  Hills,  Clatt,  i.  200. 

Suilvhen,  mountain,  Assynt,  i.  73. 

Sullom  Voe,  Northmavine,  ii.  323. 

Sumburgh,  headland,  Dunrossness,  i.  338. 

Summer  Isles,  in  Lochbroom,  ii.  521. 

Summerlee,  village,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  521. 

Summersdale,  in  Firth  and  Stenness,  i. 
432. 

Sunadale,  stream,  Saddell  and  Skipness,  ii. 
446. 

Sunart,  district,  Argyll,  i.  64,  65. 

Sunderland  Hall,  Selkirk  parish,  ii.  460. 

Sunderland  House,  Kilchoman,  ii.  27. 

Sundruni  Castle,  Coylton,  i.  221. 

Sunlaws  Tower,  Roxburgh  parish,  ii.  439. 

Sunnybank,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 

Sunny  Lodge,  Lanark,  ii.  143. 

Sunnyside,  house,  Liberton,  ii.  1 78. 

Susannah,  mine,  Leadhills,  ii.  159. 

SUTHERLANDSHIRE,  ii.  521. 

Suursay,  isle,  Harris,  ii.  523. 

Swaites  Hill,  Pettinain,  ii.  372. 

Swanbister,  bay,  Orphir,  Orkney,  ii.  333. 

Swannay,  isle,  Orkney,  ii.  525. 

Swanston,  village,  Colinton,  ii.  523. 

Swarbach's  Minn,  Sandsting  and  Aithsting, 
ii.  450. 

Swartmill,  lake,  Westray,  ii.  600. 

Sweetheart,  abbey,  Newabbey,  ii.  304. 

Swendrow,  in  Rousay  isle,  Orkney,  ii.  437. 

Sueno's  Stone,  obelisk,  Rafford,  ii.  400. 

Swineholm,  isle,  Evie,  ii.  523. 

Swiney,  village,  Latheron,  ii.  523 — ii.  155. 

Swinnie,  in  Jedburgh,  i.  588. 

Swinridgemuir,  house,  Dairy,  i.  267. 

Swinsey,  burn,  Stewarton,  ii.  488. 

Swi.nton  and  Simfrim,  parish,  Berwick,  ii. 
523. 

Swinton,  village,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  525. 

Switha,  isle,  Walls  and  Sandness,  ii.  589. 

Swona,  isle,  Orkney,  ii.  525. 

Sword  Well,  in  Dornock,  i.  287. 

Swordle,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 

Swordly,  valley,  Farr,  i.  418. 

Sydserf,  in  North  Berwick,  i.  123. 

Si'MiNGTON,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  525. 

Symington,  parish,  Lanark,  ii.  525. 

Synniness  Castle,  Old  Luce,  ii.  218. 

Synton  Moss,  Ashkirk,  i.  72. 


Taamer,  isle,  Bracadale,  i.  151. 
Taftsness,  headland,  Sanda,  Orkney,  ii.  449. 
TAIN,  burgh,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  526. 
Taing,  hamlet,  in  Fair,  i.  411. 
Tala,  stream,  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  568. 
Talla,  islet,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  387. 
Tallisker  Head,  Bracadale,  i.  151. 
Talmine,  bay,  Tongue,  ii.  549. 
Tamnahara,  hill,  Roseneath,  ii.  427. 
642 


Tanara  Isles,  in  Lochbroom,  ii.  527- 
Tanfield,  village,  Aberdeen,  ii.  617. 
Tangi.eha,  hamlet,  St.  Cyrus,  ii.  528. 
Tangwick,  mansion,  Northmavine,  ii.  324. 
Tanna,  loch,  Kilmorie,  ii.  51. 
Tanuach,  in  Wick,  Caithness,  ii.  609. 
Tannaehy,  mansion,  Rathven,  ii.  405. 
Tannachy,  New,  village,  Rathven,  ii.  528. 
Tannadice,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  528. 
Tanner,  rivulet,  in  Aboyne,  Aberdeen,  i.  31. 
Tantallan  Castle,   North   Berwick,  i.   123, 

289. 
Tar  Hill,  Ecclesmachan,  i.  356. 
Taransay,  Inverness.     See  Tarrinsay. 
Taras  Water,  Langholm,  ii.  147. 
Tarbat,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  529. 
Tarbat  House,  Kilmuir  Easter,  ii.  53,  54. 
Tarbert,  hill,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 
Tarbert,  in  Harris,  Inverness,  i.  536. 
Tarbert,  town,  Kilcalmouell,  ii.  529. 
Tarbert,  East  Loch,  South  Knapdale,  ii.  134. 
Tarbert,  West  Loch,  Kilcalmonell  and  Kil- 

berry,  ii.  25. 
Tarbet,  Arroehar,  i.  72. 
Tarbet,  Castle  of,  Dirleton,  i.  282. 
Tarbet,  Loch,  Jura,  Argyll,  i.  591. 
Tarbet,  East,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Tarbet,  West,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Tabbolton,  parish,  Ayr,  ii.  530. 
Tarelaw  Linn,  in  Straiton,  ii.  506. 
Tarff,  river,  Kirkowan,  ii.  121. 
Tarff,  river,   Tongland,    Kirkcudbright,  ii. 

547. 
Tarff,  stream,  Boleskine,  i.  139. 
Tarfside,  hamlet,  Lochlee,  ii.  531. 
Tarlain,  Well  of,  Gamrie,  ii.  225. 
Tarland  and  Migvie,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii. 

531. 
Tarrinsay,  isle,  Harris,  ii.  532. 
Tarth,  stream,  Kirkurd,  ii.  127. 
Tarty,  burn,  Foveran,  i.  452. 
Tarves,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  532. 
Tarvit,  near  Cupar,  Fife,  i.  195,  256. 
Tatius-Holm,  camp,  Kirkpatrick-Juxta,  ii. 

126. 
Tay,  loch,  Kenmore,  ii.  11. 
Tay,  liver,  Caputh,  i.   177  ;  Cargill,  179  ; 

Dull,  301  ;  Inchture,  560  ;  Kenmore,  ii. 

1 1  ;    Kinnoull,     88  ;    Perthshire,     365 ; 

Weem,  595. 
Tayfield,  lands,  Forgan,  i.  442. 
Taymouth,  estate,  Kenmore,  ii.  12. 
Tayribbi,   village,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii. 

190. 
Tayvallich,  village,  North  Knapdale,  ii.  133. 
Teagus,  loch,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Tealing,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  533. 
Teampul-na-Trianade,  in  North  Uist,  ii.  575. 
Teanassie,  farm,  Kilmorack,  ii.  49. 
Teasses,  house,  Ceres,  i.  195. 
Teindlaud,  The,  Elginshire,  i.  50. 
Teith,  river,  Perthshire,  ii.  38,  365. 
Teith,  Bridge  of,  village,  Kilmadock,  ii. 

534. 
Templand,  village,  Loehmaben,  ii.  534. 
Temple,  lands,  Darvel,  i.  272. 
Temple,  lands,  Linton,  ii.  186. 
Temple,  house,  Kinneff,  ii.  84. 
Temple,  parish,  Edinburgh,  ii.  534. 
Temple,  village,  Largo,  ii.  535. 
Temple,  in  Troon,  Ayr,  ii.  561. 
Temple-Brae,  lands,  Turriff,  ii.  565. 
Temple-Croft,  near  Fodderty,  i.  435. 


Temple-Denny,  lands,  Denny,  i.  278. 
Temple-Feu,  house,  Turriff,  ii.  565. 
Temple  Garden,  Jedburgh,  i.  588. 
Templehall,  Ormiston,  ii.  331,  333. 
Temple  Hall,  Whitsome  and  Hilton,  ii.  607. 
Templeland,  house,  Forgue,  i.  444. 
Temple-Liston,  Kirkliston,  ii.  10.9. 
Tenandry,  district,  Perthshire,  ii.  536. 
Tendal,  stream,  Ardchattan,  i.  62. 
Tents  Moor,  Leuchars,  ii.  174. 
Ternate,  lake,  Morvern,  ii.  283. 
Ternavie,  station,  Dunning,  i.  335. 
Terregles,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  536. 
Terringzean,  castle,  Old  Cumnock,  i.  254, 
Terth,  stream,  Newlauds,  ii.  311. 
Teunan,  in  Banff.     See  Forglen. 
Teviot,  river,  Cavers,  i.  193  ;  Eckford,  357  ; 

Kelso,  ii.  8. 
Teviotbank  House,  Minto,  ii.  259. 
Texa,  isle,  Kildalton,  ii.  536. 
Thainston,  lauds,  Kintore,  ii.  93,  94. 
Thanes  Castle,  Druuimelzier,  i.  293. 
Thankeston,  village,  Covington,  ii.  536 — i. 

128. 
The  Hirst.     See  Hirst,  The.     And  all  places 

liaving  a  similar  prefix  will  be  found  under 

the  proper  name,  and  not  under  The. 
Thief's  Cave,  Monzie,  ii.  276. 
Third,  East,  Smailholm,  ii.  471. 
Third,  West,  SmaiUiolm,  ii.  471. 
Thirlestane,  in  Yetholm,  ii.  622. 
Thirlstane,  Lauder,  ii.  156. 
Thirlstane,  seat,  Ettrick,  i.  407,  408. 
Thomas,  St.,  lands,  Renfrew  parish,  ii.  414. 
Thomaston,  castle,  Kirkoswald,  ii.  121. 
Thorlieshope,  estate,  Castleton,  i.  191. 
Thorn,  village,  Paisley,  ii.  536. 
Thornhill,  village,  Kincardine,  ii.  537. 
Thornhill,  village,  Morton,  ii.  536 — ii.  282. 
Thornlieeank,  village,  Eastwood,  ii.  537. 
Thornton,  hamlet,  Carrington,  ii.  537. 
Thornton,  hamlet,  Glammis,  ii.  537 — i-  478. 
Thornton,  stream,  Innerwick,  i.  562. 
Thornton,  village,  Fife,  ii.  537— ii.  231,232. 
Thornton  Castle,  Marykirk,  ii.  235. 
Thornton  House,  Kilmaurs,  ii.  46. 
Thorntonloch,  village,  Innerwick,  ii.  537 — 

i.  562,  563. 
Thorntree-Mains,  farm,  Tranent,  ii.  558. 
Threave  Castle,  in  Balmaghie,  i.  96. 
Three  Brethren  Cairn,  hill,  Selkirk  parish, 

ii.  460. 
Three-Mi  le-Town,  hamlet,  Ecclesmachan, 

ii.  537. 
Three-Shire  Stone,  Crawfordjohn,  i.  231. 
Three  Sisters,  cliff's,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 
Threepwood,  Beith,  i.  113,  114. 
Thrieplaw,  in  Gladsmuir,  i.  476,  477,  ii.  357. 
Throsk,  mansion,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  321. 
Thrumster  House,  Wick,  ii.  611. 
THURSO,  burgh,  Caithness,  ii.  537. 
Tibbermore,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  539. 
Tiber's  Castle,  Penpont,  ii.  355,  357- 
Tiel,  river,  Auchtertool,  i.  81. 
Tig,  river,  Ballantrae,  i.  93,  94. 
Tigerton,  village,  Menmuir,  ii.  540. 
Tigheaman,  mountain,  Glenorchy,  i.  509. 
Tillanamont,  in  Tyrie,  ii.  571. 
Tillichewen,  seat,  in  Bonhill,  i.  141. 
Tillicoultry,  parish,  Clackmannan,  ii.  540. 
Tilling,  hill,  Shotts,  i.  119. 
Tillyfour,  mansion,  Oyne,  ii.  336. 
Tillygreig,  house,  Udny,  ii.  572. 


INDEX. 


Tilquhilly,  seat,  Kincardineshire,  ii.  71. 
Tilt,  river,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  132. 
Tilt  Bridge,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  133. 
Tilwhilly,  lands,  Banchory-Ternan,  i.  101. 
Timah,  rivulet,  Ettrick,  i.  407. 
Timpandean,  fortress,  Jedburgh,  i.  586. 
Tingwall,  Whiteness,  and  Weesdale,  pa- 
rish, Shetland,  ii.  541. 
Tinnes  Castle,  Drummelzier,  i.  293. 
Tinnis  Hill,  Castleton,  i.  190. 
Tinto,  mountain,  Lanarkshire,  i.  181,  ii.  526. 
Tinwald,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  542. 
Tinwald  Downs,  Dumfries,  i.  306. 
Tirally,  bay,  Kirkmaiden,  ii.  114. 
Tiree  and  Coll,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  543. 
Tirefoor,  castle,  Lismore  and  Appin,  ii.  190. 
Tirlundie,  hill,  Tyrie,  ii.  375. 
Tister,  in  Bower,  i.  150. 
Titwood,  lands,  Govan,  i.  514. 
Toar  of  Troup,  Aberdour,  Aberdeen,  i.  23. 
Tobermory,  town,  Argyll,  ii.  545. 
Toberonchy,  bay,  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchat- 

tan,  ii.  19. 
Toberonchy,  village,  Kilbrandon  and  Kil- 

chattan,  ii.  20. 
Todhead,  Montrose,  ii.  273. 
Todhills,  hamlet,  Tealing,  ii.  546. 
Todhills,  village,  Liberton,  i.  473. 
Todshawhill,  farm,  Roberton,  ii.  422. 
Toftingall,  loch,  Watten,  ii.  594. 
Tofts,  Nether,  farm,  Kirktoun,  ii.  127. 
Toinne-Beinne,  in  Eddrachillis,  i.  360. 
Tolbooth,  parish.     See  Edinburgh. 
Tollcross,  village,  Glasgow,  ii.  546. 
Tollis  Hill,  Lauder,  ii.  157. 
Tollow  Hill,  of  the  Grampians,  i.  99. 
Tolquhon,  castle,  Tarves,  ii.  533. 
Tolsta,  bay,  Stornoway,  Lewis,  ii.  502. 
Tomachar,  hamlet,  Port  of  Monteith,  ii.  546. 
Tomachar,  stone,  Logie-Coldstone,  ii.  207. 
Tom-a-chastel,  hill,  Monivairdand  Strowau, 

ii.  266. 
Tom-a-Cliroich,  mound,  Pettie,  ii.  372. 
Torn-a-Mhoid,  mound,  Pettie,  ii.  372. 
Tomatin,  lands,  Moy  and  Dalrossie,  ii.  287. 
Toniavem,  Kincardine  O'Neil,  ii.  71. 
Tonibia,  in  Inveraven,  i.  568. 

Tomereck,  hamlet,  Weem,  ii.  546. 

TostiNTOUL,  village,   Kirkmichael,  ii.  546 — 
ii.  116. 

Tomnarraeh,  burn,  Ardclaeh,  i.  63. 

Tomphobuil,  in  Dull,  i.  301. 

Tonderghie,  in  "Whithorn,  ii.  606. 

Tong,  river,  Stornoway,  Lewis,  ii.  502. 

Tongland,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  547. 

Tongue,  parish,  Sutherland,  ii.  548. 

Tonley,  seat,  in  Tough,  ii.  556. 

Tookquoy,  bay,  Westray,  ii.  600. 

Tor-a-Bhean,  Inverness,  i.  578. 

Tor-Alvie,  in  Alvie,  Inverness,  i.  42. 

Torboll,  in  Dornoch,  i.  286. 

Torbolton,  Ayr.     See  Tarbolton. 

Torbrex,  village,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  550. 

Torcastle,  in  Dallas,  i.  263. 

Tordarroch,  in  Dunlichty,  i.  273. 

Tordoff,  in  Graitney,  i.  516. 

Torewood,  Banffshire,  i.  462. 

Torfoot,  lands,  Avondale,  i.  84. 

Torgarrow,  burn,  Ardelach,  i.  63. 

Tor  Hill,  Ecclesmachan,  i.  356. 

Torloisk,  house,   Kilninian  and  Kilmore,  ii. 
55. 

Torlum,  hill,  Muthill,  ii.  296,  297. 
643 


Tormard,  loch,  Reay,  ii.  409. 

Torness,  in  Stronsay,  ii.  519. 

Torogay,  isle,  Harris,  ii.  550. 

Torosay,  parish,  Argyll,  ii.  550. 

Torphichen,  parish,  Linlithgow,  ii.  552. 

Torquhah,  mansion,  Stow,  ii.  504. 

Torra,  river,  in  Lewis,  i.  109. 

Torrance,  ancient  parish,  East  Kilbride,  ii. 

22, 23. 
Torrance,  mansion,  Forgandenny,  i.  443. 
Torrance,  village,  Campsie,  ii.  553 — i.  175. 
Torridon,  district,  in  Applecross,  i.  54,  55. 
Torrie,  granite  quarries,  Aberdeen,  i.  13. 
Torrie  House,  Torryburn,  ii.  554. 
Torrisdale,  stream,  Saddell  and  Skipness,  ii. 

446. 
Torrisdale,  village,  Tongue,  ii.  553,  549 — 

i.  418. 
Torrs,  farm,  Kelton,  ii.  10. 
Torr's  Lake,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  101. 
Torry,  village,  in  Nigg,  ii.  553. 
Torry,  village, in  Torryburn, ii.  553. 
Torryburn,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  554. 
Torsay,  isle,  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchattan,  ii. 

554. 
Torsouce  Castle,  Stow,  ii.  504. 
Torthorwald,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  554. 
Torwood,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  331. 
Torwood,  village,  Dunipace,  ii.  555. 
Torwoodlee,  mansion,  Stow,  ii.  504. 
Toscarton,  ancient   parish,   Stoneykirk,   ii. 

501. 
Tothorl  Castle,  Douglas,  i.  288. 
Touch,  lands,  St.  Ninian's,  ii.  320,  321. 
Touch,  Easter  and  Wester,  lands,  Fife,  i.  1. 
Tough,  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  ii.  555 — i.  35. 
Toward,  hi  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  i.  337. 
Towe  Hill,  Cumbernauld,  i.  250. 

Tower,  burn,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 

Tower  Hill,  Kinfauns,  ii.  73. 

Towie-Barclay,  house,  Turriff,  ii.  567. 

Townend  House,  Symington,  ii.  525. 

Town-Head,  Banchory-Ternan,  i.  101. 

Tovvnhead,  hamlet,  Penpont,  ii.  356. 

Town  Loch,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 

Town-Yetholm,  Roxburgh.     See  Yetholm. 

Tradeston,  suburb,  Glasgow,  ii.  558. 

Trafalgar,  hamlet,  Collessie,  i.  213. 

Trailflat,  hamlet,  in  Tinwald,  ii.  558 — ii. 
542,  543. 

Trailtrow,  ancient  ehapelry,  i.  252. 

Trallaig,  loch,  Kilninver  and  Kilmelford,  ii. 
57- 

TRANENT,  town,  Haddington,  ii.  558. 

Traplain  Law,  Haddingtonshire,  i.  529,  ii. 
393. 

Traquair,  parish,  Peebles,  ii.  559. 

Trees,  farm,  Maybole,  ii.  241. 

Treesbank,  seat,  Riccarton,  ii.  420. 

Treig,  river,  Kilmonivaig,  ii.  48. 

Treishnish,  isles,  in  Kilninian,  ii.  560 — ii. 
54,  56. 

Tressness,  district,  Lady  parish,  Orkney,  ii. 
138. 

Tresta,  bay,  in  Fetlar,  i.  423. 

Tresta,  in  Sandsting  and  Aithsting,  ii.  451. 

Trevie,  Loch,  Dallas,  i.  263. 

Trialivall,  lake,  Lochs  parish,  ii.  200. 

Trinafour,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  133. 

Trinity,  Newhaven,  North  Leith,  ii.  310. 

Trinity-Gask,  Perthshire.  See  Gask,  Trinity. 

Trinity-Muir,  hamlet,  Brechin,  ii.  560 — i. 
152. 


Trochain,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  115. 
Trochery,  castle,  Little  Dunkeld,  i.  332. 
Troda,  isle,  Kilmuir,  ii.  560. 
Trohaughton,  hill,  Dumfries,  i.  307. 
Tromie,  river,  Kingussie,  ii.  81. 
Tron-Church,  parish.     See  Edinburgh. 
Trondray,  isle,  Tingwall,  Whiteness,  and 

Weesdale,  ii.  560. 
Trool,  loch,  Minnigatf,  ii.  257. 
TROON,  town,  in  Dundonald,  Ayr,  ii.  560 

— ii.  42. 
Troqueer,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  561. 
Trosachs,  The,  Perthshire,  i.  25. 
Troup  Head,  Gamrie,  Banff,  i.  461. 
Troup  House,  Gamrie,  i.  462. 
Trow  Craigs,  rocks,  Roxburgh  parish,  ii. 

439. 
Trows,  New,  village,  Lesmahago,  ii.  562. 
Truderscaig,  loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  523. 
Truim,  river,  Kingussie,  ii.  81. 
Truhisgarry,  district,  North  Uist,  ii.  562. 
Trustach  Hill,  Banchory-Ternan,  i.  101. 
Trysting-Stones,  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii. 

278. 
Trysting-tree,  elm,  Roxburgh  parish,  ii.  439. 
Tua,  Loch,  Isle  of  Mull,  ii.  292. 
Tudhope,  in  Jedburgh,  i.  588. 
Tudhope,  mountain,  Castleton,  i.  190. 
Tuimpan,  headland,  Stornoway,  Lewis,  ii. 

502. 
Tuiteam-Tarbhach,  Kincardine,  ii.  68. 
Tulina,  ancient  town,  Perthshire,  i.  177- 
Tulliallan,  parish,  Perthshire,  ii.  562. 
Tullibardine,  lands,  Blackford,  i.  131. 
Tullibody,  village,  Alloa,  ii.  563 — i.  36, 37- 
Tullich,  village,  Glenmuick,  ii.  563 — i.  31. 
Tulliehetal,  old  parish,  Perth,  i.  215. 
Tullichewen,  lands,  Luss,  ii.  222. 
Tulliebole,  Kinross.     See  Fossoicay  and  Tid- 

liebole. 
Tullius'  hill,  Lauder,  ii.  157. 
Tulloch,  estate,  Dingwall,  i.  280,  281. 
Tulloch,  loch,  Rafford,  ii.  400.       . 
Tulloch,  village,  Perth,  ii.  563. 
Tulloch-ard,  mountain,  Kintail,  ii.  92. 
Tulloch  Castle,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  430. 
Tulloch,  Nether,  farm,  Garvock,  i.  468. 
Tullos,  hill,  Nigg  parish,  ii.  317. 
Tullybeagles,  in  Methven,  i.  78,  79- 
Tullybelton,  in  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 
Tullydivie,  in  Edmkillie,  i.  393. 
Tullynessle  and  Forbes,  parish,  Aberdeen, 

ii.  563— i.  35. 
Tulm,  isle,  Kilmuir,  ii.  53. 
Tummel,  Loch,  Blair-Atholl,  i.  132. 
Tummel,  river,  Fortingal,  i.  448  ;  Moulin, 

ii.  284;  Perthshire,  365. 
Tummel-Bridge,  Dull,  i.  301,  302. 
Tundergarth,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  564. 
Turin,  Aberlemno,  Forfar,  i.  26,  27- 
Turleum,  hill,  Monivaird  and  Strowan,  ii. 

266. 
Turn-again  Hill,  Redgorton,  ii.  410. 
Tumberry  Castle,  Kirkoswald,  ii.  120. 
Turner  Hall,  Ellon,  i.  402. 
Turnlaw,  hill,  Lanark,  i.  169. 
Turret,  Loch,  Monivaird  and  Strowan,  ii. 

266. 
Turret,  river,  Crieff,  i.  235. 
TURRIFF,  burgh,  Aberdeen,  ii.  565— ii. 

271. 
Turry  Chapel,  in  Coull,  i.  220. 
Tushielaw,  castle,  Ettrick,  i.  408. 
4N  2 


INDEX. 


Tweeddale.     See  Peeblesshire. 
Tweeden,  stream,  Castleton,  i.  190. 
Tweed-Hill,  Hutton,  i.  553. 
Tweed,  river,  Berwick,  i.  124,  126. 
Tweed,  river,  Melrose,  ii.  246;  Peebles,  349, 

350. 
Tweed's  Cross,  Tweedsmuir,  ii.  568. 
Tweedsjiuir,   parish,  Peebles,   ii.   567 — *- 

293. 
Twinlaw  Cairns,  Westruther,  ii.  601. 
Twtnholm,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  568. 
Tylliminnet,  glen,  Gartly,  i.  466. 
Tyncairn,  in  Alvil,  Inverness,  i.  42. 
Tyndrum,  village,  Killin,  county  of  Perth, 

"ii.  569— ii.  37. 
Tyne,  river,  Castleton,  i.  190. 
Tyne,  river,  Crichton,  i.  233  ;  Gladsmuir, 

476  ;  Haddington,  527  5   Prestonkirk,  ii. 

393. 
Tynninghame,  village,  Whitekirk,  ii.  569, 

604,  605. 
Tynrox,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  569. 
Tyrebagger,  hill,  Dyce,  i.  345,  346. 
Tyrie,  county  Argyll.     See  Tiree  and  Coll. 
Tyrie,  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  ii.  570. 


u 


Uaghlamaich,  cave,  Jura  and  Colonsay,  i. 

591. 
Uaighmor,  hill,  Kilrnadoek,  ii.  38. 
Uaine,  loch,  Logie-Coldstone,  ii.  207. 
Uamvar,  hill,  Kilraadock,  ii.  38. 
Udale,  residence,  Cromarty,  i.  238. 
Uddingston,  village,  Bothwell,  ii.  571. 
Uddington,  village,  Douglas,  ii.  572. 
Udny,  parish,  Aberdeen,  ii.  572 — ii.  225. 
Ugie,  river,  St.  Fergus,  i.  422  ;  Peterhead, 

ii.  370;  Strichen,  516. 
Uig,  parish,  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  572. 
.Uigg,  bay,  Skye,  ii.  472;  isle,  473. 
Uii,  in  Stornoway  parish,  Lewis,  ii.  503. 
Uilevay,  bay,  Barra,  i.  107- 
Uisgava,  loch,  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 
Uisge,  loch,  Torosay,  ii.  551. 
Uist,  North,  parish,  Inverness,  ii.  574. 
Uist,  South,  parish,  Inverness,  ii.  575 — i. 
107. 

Ulbster,  in  Wick,  Caithness,  ii.  611. 
Ulinish,  isle,  in  Kilmuir,  ii.  577- 
Ullapool,  village,  in  Lochbroom,  ii.  577- 
Ullhouse,  mansion,  Delting,  i.  277. 
Ulston,  village,  Jedburgh,  ii.  577- 
Ulva,   island,    Kilninian    and   Kilmore,  ii. 

577. 
Unarav,  isle,  Yell,  ii.  578. 
Underbank,  villa,  West  Kilbride,  ii.  24. 
Underwood,  house,  Craigie,  i.  223. 
Unieh,  stream,  Forfarshire,  i.  441. 
Unicorn,  rock,  Bressay,  i.  153. 
Union,  late  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  Aberdeen, 

i.  17. 

Union  Canal,  i.  379. 

Union  Suspension-Bridge,  Hutton,  i.  554,  ii. 

348. 
Uxst,  parish,  Shetland,  ii.  578. 
Unthank,  seat,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 
Unthank,  farm,  Ewes,  i.  409. 
Ui'Hall,  parish,  Linlithgow,  ii.  580. 
Uplamoir,   village,   Neilston,   ii.    580  —  ii. 

■300. 
Uppat,  seat,  Sutherland,  ii.  523. 
644 


Upperbie,  or  Overbie,  Eskdalemuir,  i.  407. 

Upsetlington,  village,  Ladykirk,  ii.  580— ii. 
138. 

Urchany,  hill,  Nairn,  ii.  298. 

Ure,  loch,  Stornoway,  Lewis,  ii.  502. 

Ure,  river,  Ardchattan,  Argyll,  i.  62. 

Urigill,  loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 

Urie  Bay,  in  Fetlar,  i.  423,  424. 

Urie,  loch,  Kilbride,  ii.  21. 

Urie,  river,  Culsamond,  i.  247  ;  Keith-Hall 
and  Kinkell,  ii.  5. 

Urquhart,  parish,  Elgin,  ii.  581. 

Urquhart  and  Glenjiorriston,  parish,  In- 
verness, ii.  582. 

Urquhart  and  Logie  Wester,  parish, 
Nairn,  and  Ross  and  Cromarty,  ii.  583. 

Urr,  Bridge  of,  Kirkpatrick-Durham,  ii. 
122. 

Urr,  parish,  Kirkcudbright,  ii.  585. 

Urr,  river,  Colvend,  i.  215  ;  Kirkpatrick- 
Durham,  ii.  122  ;  Urr,  585. 

Urrard,  mansion,  Moulin,  ii.  284. 

Urray,  parish,  Inverness,  and  Ross  and 
Cromarty,  ii.  585. 

Ury,  estate,  Fetteresso,  i.  426. 

Usan,  village,  Craig,  Forfar,  ii.  586 — i.  222, 
223. 

Ushinish,  headland,  South  Uist,  ii.  576. 

Ussie,  loch,  Fodderty,  i.  435. 

Uy"a,  isle,  Northmavine,  ii.  586. 

Ui'A,  isle,  Unst,  ii.  586. 

Uya  Sound,  house,  Unst,  ii.  579,  580.  ■ 

Uyea,  residence,  Shetland,  ii.  463. 


Vaila,  isle,  Walls  and  Saudness,  ii.  586. 
Valey,   isle,   Sandsting   and   Aithsting,  ii. 

586. 
Vallay,  island,  North  Uist,  ii.  586. 
Valley,  The,  Stirling,  ii.  491. 
Valleyfield,  hills,  Unst,  ii.  578. 
Valleyfield,  house,  Tongland,  ii.  547. 
Valleyfield,  Penicuick,  ii.  354. 
Valleyfield,  Low,  village,  Culross,  county 

of  Perth,  ii.  586. 
Valtos,  in  Uig,   Ross    and    Cromarty,  ii. 

574. 
Vanduaria,  Paisley,  ii.  337. 
Vane,  castle,  Fearn,  i.  419. 
Varis,  in  Elginshire,  i.  444. 
Varrich,  promontory,  Tongue,  ii.  548,  550. 
Vasa,  Skerry  of,    Shapiushay,   Orkney,  ii. 

462. 
Vat,  The,  in  Tullich,  i.  508. 
Vatten,  farm,  Duirinish,  i.  300. 
Vealloch,  Loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
Vementry,   island,   Sandsting,   ii.   586— ii. 

450. 
Veneheon,  farm,  Yctholm,  ii.  622. 
Veness,  headland,  Eday,  ii.  519. 
Venlaw,  mansion,  Peebles,  ii.  349. 
Vennachar,  loch,  Perthshire,  ii.  366. 
Venny,  lake,  Forfar,  i.  440. 
Vernon,  Mount,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 
Vestrafiold,  hill,  Sandwick,  ii.  451. 
Veyatie,  loch,  Sutherland,  ii.  522. 
Vicarland,  village,  Cambuslang,  ii.  586. 
Vicar's  Bridge,  Dollar,  i.  283. 
Vicar's  Croft,  in  Fordyce,  i.  438. 
Viewfield,  residence,  Nairn,  ii.  299. 
Viewpark,  mansion,  Morningside,  ii.  280. 


Vigean's,  St.,  parish,  Forfar,  ii.  586— i.  57, 
58. 

Vinney,  stream,  Dunnichen,  i.  334;  Kirk- 
den,  ii.  104. 

Voil,  Loch,  Balquhidder,  i.  99. 

Vorgay,  isle,  in  North  Uist,  ii.  574. 

Vorgie  House,  Borthwick,  i.  145. 

Vrae,  hills,  Turriff,  ii.  566. 

Vuiavore,  island,  Uig,  ii.  587. 

Vuiay-,  island,  Bracadale,  ii.  588. 

w 

Wadbister  Voe,  in  Tingwall,  ii.  541 . 
Walesley,  farm,  Avondale,  i.  84. 
Walkingshaw,  mansion,  Renfrew,  ii.  414. 
Wallace's  Cairn,  Loudoun,  ii.  217. 
Wallace's  Castle,  in  Gamrie,  i.  462. 
Wallace's  Cave,  Lasswade,  ii.  154. 
Wallace's  Cave,  in  Torphichen,  ii.  553. 
Wallace's  Chair,  Libberton,  ii.  399. 
Wallace  Hall,  Closeburn,  i.  203. 
Wallace's  Knowe,  morass,  Lochwinnoch,  ii. 

203. 
Wallace's  Leap,  Roseneath,  ii.  428. 
Wallace's  Seat,  Kilbarchan,  ii.  17. 
Wallace's  Seat  and  Tower,  Dumbarton,  i. 

303. 
Wallace's  Stone,  Polmont,  ii.  378. 
Wallace's  Tower,  Roxburgh  parish,  ii.  439. 
Wallace's  Tree,  Elderslie,"  i.  396. 
Wallace  Tower,  Auehterhouse,  i.  80. 
Wallacetown,  in  Auchinleck,  i.  76. 
Wallacetown,  district,  St.  Quivox,  ii.  588. 
Wallhouse,  house,  Torphichen,  ii.  553. 
Walliford,  grounds,  Inveresk,  ii.  295. 
Walls  and  Sandness,  parish,  Shetland,  ii. 

588. 
W  Alston,  parish,  Lanark,  ii.  590. 
Walton,  hamlet,  Cults,  ii.  591. 
Walton,  hill,  Cults,  i.  249. 
Walton  Dam,  Neilston,  ii.  300. 
Walton   Park,    seat,   Kirkpatrick-Durham, 

ii.  122. 
Wajiphray,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  591. 
Wandell  and  Lammingtoune,  parish,  La- 
nark, ii.  592. 
Wangie,  hill,  Dallas,  i.  263. 
Wanlockhead,  village,  Sanquhar,  ii.  593. 
Ward,  The,  village,  Cruden,  ii.  593— i.  243, 

244. 
Ward,  hill,  Bressay,  i.  153. 
Ward  House,  Kinnethmont,  ii.  87. 
Wardie,  near  Granton,  Edinburgh,  i.  520. 
Wardlaw,  ancient  parish,  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 
Wardlaw,  hill,  Ettrick,  i.  407. 
Wardlaw,  hill,  Kirkmahoe,  ii.  112. 
AVardlaw  Bank,  Coldingham,  i.  208,  209. 
Wardlaw  Hill,  Kirkhill,  ii.  106. 
Ware,  stream,  St.  Bathan's,  i.  110. 
Warmanbie,  house,  Annan,  i.  52. 
Warness,  headland,  Eday,  ii.  519. 
Warrickhill,  house,  Dreghorn,  i.  291. 
Wart,  hill,  Orphir,  ii.  333. 
Washington,  village,  Cupar- Angus,  ii.  593. 
Watchman's  Hill,  Kirkmahoe,  ii.  112. 
Watchman's  Stone,  Clachnaharry,  i.  198. 
Waterbeck,  village,  Middlebie,  ii.  593. 
Wateresk,  vale,  Cortachy,  i.  218. 
Waterloo,  village,  Auclitergaven,  ii.  593. 
Waternish,  district,  Duirinish,  ii.  593— i. 

299,  300. 


INDEX. 


Water  of  Leith,   Edinburgh.     See   Leith, 

Water  of. 
Water  Sound,  Burray,  i.  162. 
Watersav,  island,  Barra,  ii.  594. 
Waterside,  estate,  Keir,  ii.  2. 
Waterstein,  cliffs,  Duirinish,  i.  300. 
Waterston,  hamlet,  Eeclesmachan,  ii.  594. 
WatertoD,  Aberdeenshire,  ii.  310,  533. 
Watertowu,  in  Ellon,  i.  401. 
Watling-Street,  Oxnam  parish,  ii.  33G. 
Watston,  loch,  Kilmadock,  ii.  38. 
Watswick,  bay,  Unst,  ii.  578. 
Watten,  parish,  Caithness,  ii.  594. 
Watt's-Town,   village,  New  Monkland,  ii. 

595. 
Wauchope,  old  parish,  Dumfries,  i.  530. 
Wauehope,  river,  Langholm,  ii.  1 46. 
Wauchope  Castle,  Langholm,  ii.  147- 
Wear  Hill,  Melrose,  ii.  247. 
Weatherholm,  islet,  Unst,  ii.  579. 
Weaths,  castle,  Kirkbean,  ii.  392. 
Wedale,  district,  Stow  parish,  ii.  503. 
Wedderburn,  castle,  Murroes,  ii.  294. 
Wedderburn  Castle,  Dunse,  i.  340. 
Wedderlie,  mansion,  Westruther,  ii.  602. 
Weem,  parish,  Perth,  ii.  595. 
Weems  Hole,  cave,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  132. 
Weems  Park,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  132. 
Weesdale.     See  Tingwall,    Whiteness,  and 

Weesdalc. 
Weir,  Bridge  of,  village,  Renfrew,  ii.  596 

— i.  549. 
Wellington  Bridge,  Nigg,  ii.  318. 
Wellmeadow,  Mearns,  ii.  242. 
Well-Park,  district,  Glasgow,  ii.  597. 
Wellsbum  Spout,  in  Eskdalemuir,  i.  406. 
Well-Trees  Spout,  spring,  Maybole,  ii.  241. 
Wemyss,  bay,  Innerkip,  i.  561. 
Wemyss,  parish,  Fife,  ii.  597- 
Wemyss,  East,  village,  in  Wemyss,  ii.  597, 

598. 
Wemyss,  West,  village,  in  Wemyss,  ii.  597, 

598. 
Wemyss  Hall,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
West    Bridgend.      See    Bridgend,    West. 
And  all  places  having  a  similar  distinguish- 
ing prefix  will  be  found  under  the  proper 
name. 
Westair,  lake,  Lady  parish,  Orkney,  ii.  138. 
Westbarns,  village,  in  Dunbar,  ii.  598— i. 

310,  312. 
AVesteridge,  village,  Kinghom,  ii.  598. 
West-Coates,  residence,  Newburn,  ii.  309. 
Wester,  Loch,  in  Wick,  ii.  610. 
Wester-Elchies,  mansion,  ii.  136. 
Westerhall,  estate,  Westerkirk,  ii.  599. 
Westerkirk,  parish,  Dumfries,  ii.  598— i. 

406. 
Western  Ferry,  Erskine,  i.  405. 
Western  Isles,  or  Hebrides,  i.  539. 
Westerton,  seat,  Elgin,  i.  398. 
Westerwood,  farm,  Cumbernauld,  i.  250. 
Westfield,  house,  Cupar,  i.  256. 
West-Green,  Kinross,  ii.  91. 
Westhall,  seat,  Oyne,  ii.  336. 
West-Head,  near  Portsoy,  i.  438. 
Westhouses,  village,  Newbattle,  ii.  599. 
Westmoin,  district,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Westmuir,  village,  Glasgow,  ii.  599. 
Westmuir,  village,  Kirriemuir,  ii.  599. 
Westness,  residence,  Rousay  isle,  Orkney, 

ii.  437. 
Weston,  in  Tarbolton,  Ayr,  ii.  531. 
645 


Westowx,  village,  Errol,  ii.  599— i.  404. 
West-Pans,  Kincardine,  ii.  67. 
West  parish.     See  Aberdeen. 
Westquarter,  burn,  Polmont,  ii.  378 ;  House, 

379. 
Westquarter,  village,  Glasford,  ii.  599 — i. 

500. 
Westraw,  lauds,  Pettinain,  ii.  372. 
Westray,  parish,  Orkney,  ii.  GOO. 
Westruther,  parish,  Berwick,  ii.  601. 
Westthorn,  house,  Camlachie,  i.  172. 
West-Voe,  in  Dunrossness,  i.  338. 
West- Water,  Dunsyre,  i.  341. 
West- Water,  Edzell,  i.  395. 
Whalefirth  Voe,  in  Mid  Yell,  ii.  619. 
Whalsay,  island,  in  Nesting,  ii.  602. 
Whapple,  bay,  Sorbie,  ii.  473. 
Wharral,  loch,  Cortachy,  i.  218. 
Whim,  mansion,  Newlands,  ii.  311. 
Whines,  hamlet,  E,uthven,  ii.  602. 
Whinnie-Fauld,  village,  Cruden,  ii.  602. 
Whins  of  Milton,  village,  Stirling,  ii.  603. 
Whinyeon,  loch,  Twynholm,  ii.  569. 
Whistleberry  Castle,  Kinneff,  ii.  84. 
Whitburgh,  mansion,  Keith  and  Humbie, 

ii.  4. 
Whitburn,  parish,  Linlithgow,  ii.  603 — ii. 

191. 
Whiteadder,  river,  Abbey  St.  Bathan's,  i. 
110;  Bunkle,   159;   Edrom,  394,   395  ; 
Foulden,  452. 

Whiteash,  Banffshire,  i.  403. 

Whiteby,  Keig,  ii.  2. 

Whiteeamp,  farm,  Crawford,  i.  230. 

Whitecastle,  fortress,  Garvald  and  Bara,  i. 
467. 

Whitecastle,  hill,  Carmichael,  i.  181. 

Whitecastle,  lands,  Libberton,  ii.  177- 

White  Cave,  in  Slains  and  Forvie,  ii.  468. 

White-Chapel,  at  Spottiswoode,  Berwick,  i. 
512. 

Whitecleugh,  in  Crawfordjohn,  i.  231. 

White  Esk,  river.     See  Esk,  White. 

Whitefaugh,  hamlet,  Carrington,  ii.  603. 

Whiteflat,  in  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 

Whitehall,  house,  Chirnside,  i.  197. 

Whitehall,  village,  Stronsay,  ii.  603. 

Whitehall,  old  palace,  Dundee,  i.  319. 

Whitehaugh,  house,  Wilton,  ii.  615. 

Whitehaugh,  mansion,  Tullynessle,  ii.  564. 

Whitehaugh,  stream,  Muirkirk,  ii.  291. 

Whitehill,  Lanarkshire,  i.  489. 

Whitehill,  in  New  Deer,  i.  275. 

Whitehill,  in  Wandell  and  Lammingtoune, 
ii.  593. 

Whitehill,  farm,  New  Cumnock,  i.  253. 

Whitehill,  mansion,  Carrington,  i.  187. 

Whitehill,  village,  Dalkeith,  ii.  604. 

Whitehill  Cottage,  in  Aberdour,  Fife,  i.  24. 

Whitehills,   village,   Boindie,   ii.  604 — i. 
138,139. 

Whiteholm,  farm,  Tundergarth,  ii.  565. 

White-holm,  lands,   Kirkpatrick-Juxta,   ii. 
125. 

Whitehouse,  Edinburgh,  i.  386,  ii.  280. 

Whitehouse,  estate,  Blairgowrie,  i.  134. 

Whitehouse,  mansion,  Tough,  ii.  556. 

White-Inch,  in  Govan,  i.  515. 

Whitekirk  and  T ynninghame,  parish,  Had- 
dington, ii.  604. 

Whitelaw,  hill,  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  278. 

Whiteletts,  village,  St.  Quivox,  ii.  605. 
Whiteley,  in  Leochel  and  Cushnie,  ii.  167. 


White  Loch,  Dunfermline,  i.  324. 
Whiteloch,  lake,  Carnwath,  i.  185. 
Whitemill,  headland,  Sanda,  Orkney,  ii.  449. 
White  Moss,  Lake,  Dunning,  i.  335. 
Whitemyre,  village,  Dyke  and  Moy,  ii.  605. 
Whiteness.     See  Imgwall,   Whiteness,  and 

Weesdale. 
Whiten  Head,  in  Tongue,  and  Durness,  ii. 

549. 
White-Sheets,  hill,  Auchterhouse,  i.  79. 
Whitestone,  in  Strachan  parish,  ii.  504. 
Whitewells,  house,  Tannadice,  ii.  528. 
White-Ween,  hill,  Dryfesdale,  i.  296. 
Whitfield,  Linton,  ii.  186. 
WHITHORN,  burgh,  Wigton,  ii.  605. 
Whithorn,  Isle  of,  village,  ii.  606. 
Whiting,  bay,  Kilbride,  ii.  21. 
Whitslaid,  Legerwood,  ii.  161. 
Whitsome  and  Hilton,  parish,  Berwick,  ii. 

607. 
Whitstone  Hill,  lands,  Tundergarth,  ii.  565. 
WniTTiNGHAM,  parish,  Haddington,  ii.  607- 
Whittingham  Water,  Whittingham,  ii.  608. 
Whitton,  fort,  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  278. 
Whytbanklee,  hamlet,  Stow,  ii.  504. 
Wia,  isle,  Barra,  Inverness,  ii.  608. 
Wia,  isle,  South  Uist,  ii.  608. 
Wick,  bay,  Unst,  ii.  578. 
WICK,  burgh,  Caithness,  ii.  609. 
Wideford,  hill,  Kirkwall  and  St.  Ola,  ii.  129. 
Wideopen,  in  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  279. 
Wier,  island,  Rousay  and  Egilshay,  ii.  611. 
Wig,  basin,  Kirkcolrn,  ii.  99. 
WIGTON,  or  Wigtown,  burgh,  ii.  611. 
WIGTONSHIRE,orWiGTOWNSHiRE,ii.612. 
Wildshaw,  in  Crawfordjohn,  i.  231. 
AVilkiston,  village,  Kirknewton,  ii.  614 — ii. 

120. 
Williamfield  House,  Symington,  ii.  525. 
Williamsburgh,  suburb,  Paisley,  ii.  339. 
Williamsburgh,  village,  Clunie,  i.  203. 
Williamshaw,  mansion,  Stewarton,  ii.  488. 
Williamston  House,  Culsamond,  i.  247. 
Wilsontown,  village,  Carnwath,  ii.  614. 
Wilton,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  614. 
Winchburgh,  village,  Kirkliston,  ii.  615 — 

ii.  110. 
Windhead,  hill,  Roxburghshire,  ii.  440. 
Windlestrae  Law,  hill,  Selkirkshire,  ii.  461. 

Windmill-Hill,  village,  Dalziel,  ii.  615— i. 
271. 

Windy-Edge,  hamlet,  Sanquhar,  ii.  615. 

Windygates,  village,  Markinch,  ii.  615. 

Windy  Gowle,  Kinnoull,  ii.  88. 

Wine  Tower,  in  Fraserburgh,  i.  455. 

Winewell,  mineral  well,  Peterhead,  ii.  369. 

Winless,  Loch,  in  Wick,  ii.  610. 

Winthank,  lands,  Cameron,  i.  172. 

Winton,  village,    Pencaitland,  ii.  615— ii. 
351. 

Wirren,  hill,  Lethnott  and  Navar,  ii.  173. 

Wishaw,  estate,  Cambusnethan,  ii.  489. 

Wishawton,    Lanark.     See   Stewarton    anrl 
Wishaicton. 

Wisp,  hill,  Dollar,  i.  283. 

Wisp,  mountain,  Cavers,  i.  193. 

Wiston  and  Roberton,  parish,  Lanark,  ii. 
616. 

Witches'  Howe,  Forfar,  i.  439. 

Witches'  Stone,  St.  Martin's,  ii.  233. 

Wolf-Clyde,  in  Culter,  i.  248. 

Wolfhill,  village,  Cargill,  ii.  616. 

Wolflee,  mansion,  Southdean,  ii.  476. 

Wood,  farm,  Kirkmichael,  ii.  117. 


Woodbank,  house,  in  Bonhill,  i.  141. 
Woodburn,  mansion,  Morningside,  ii.  280. 
Woodburn,  mansion,  Newbattle,  ii.  305. 
Woodcock-Air,  hill,  in  Annan,  Dumfries, 

i.  52. 
Woodcot,  mansion,  Edinburghshire,  i.   412, 
Wooden,  mansion,  Kelso,  ii.  8. 
Wooden  Hill,  Eckford,  i.  357. 
Wood-End,  in  Cathcart,  i.  192. 
Woodend,  hamlet,  Methven,  ii.  610 — i.  38. 
Woodend,  mansion,  Kinnoull,  ii.  88. 
Woodend,  mansion,  Madderty,  ii.  226. 
Woodend  Cottage,  in  Dairsie,  i.  260. 
Woodend  Loch,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  269. 
Woodgate,  in  Denny,  i.  279. 
Woodhall,  Old  Monkland,  ii.  270. 
Woodhall,  Loch,  Balmaghie,  i.  97. 
Woodhall,  mansion,  Bothwell,  i.  148. 
Woodhaven,  village,  Forgan,  ii.  G16. 
Woodhead,  in  Campsie,  i.  175. 
Woodhead,  in  Fyvie,  i.  457. 
Woodhead,  creek,  Forgan,  ii.  312. 
Woodhead,   farm,    Kirkmichael  and  Culli- 

cudden,  ii.  119. 
Woodhead,  mansion,  Kirkintilloch,  ii.  109. 
Woodhill,  in  Alva,  Stirling,  i.  40. 
Woodhill,  Kirkmichael,  Dumfries,  ii.  117- 
Woodhill,  mansion,  Kirkmichael,  Perth,  ii. 
"  118. 
Woodhouselee,  seat,  Glencross,  i.  504. 


INDEX. 

Woodhouse  Tower,  Kirkpatrick-Fleming,ii. 

123. 
WoodlSnd,  hill,  Dalrymple,  i.  268. 
Woodlands,  seat,  St.  Vigean's,  ii.  587. 
Woodlane,  village,  Kincardine,  ii.  616. 
Woodriff,  lands,  Newburgh,  ii.  307. 
Woodside,  Beith,  i.  113. 
Woodside,  district,  Aberdeen,  ii.  610. 
Woodside,  mansion,  Kelso,  ii.  8. 
Woodside,  village,  Cargill,  ii.  617- 
Woodside,  village,  Largs,  ii.  617. 
Woodside,  village,  Markinch,  ii.  617. 
Woodside,  North,  village,  Glasgow,  ii.  617. 
Woodside  Hill,  Morebattle  and  Mow,  ii.  278. 
Woodston  Hill,  St.  Cyrus,  i.  258,  259. 
Woodville,  mansion,  Morningside,  ii.  280. 
Woodwick,  bay,  Evie  and  Rendall,  i.  408. 
Woodwick,  bay,  Unst,  ii.  578. 
Woolman  hill,  Aberdeen,  i.  10,  12. 
Woolniet,  ancient  parish,  Newton,  ii.  312. 
Wormiston,  house,  Crail,  i.  226. 
Wormit,  bay,  Forgan,  i.  441. 
Wormyhills,  in  Arbuiot,  Forfar,  i.  56. 
Wrath,  Cape,  Durness,  i.  342. 
Wreaths,  Kirkbeau,  ii.  96. 
Wrights  Houses,  Edinburgh,  i.  388. 
Wuddy-law,  hill,  Kinnell,  ii.  85. 
Wyesbie,  mansion,  Kirkpatrick-Fleming,  ii. 

124. 
Wynnie,  stream,  Auchtergaven,  i.  78. 


Y 


Yair,  mansion,  Selkirk  parish,  ii.  400. 

Yardside,  farm,  Riccarton,  ii.  420. 

Yarrow,  hills,  Wick,  ii.  610. 

Yarrow,  parish,  Selkirk,  ii.  617- 

Yarrowford,  village,  Selkirk,  ii.  019. 

Yell,  island,  Shetland,  ii.  619. 

Yell,  Mid  and  South,  parish,  in  Yell,  ii. 

619. 
Yell,   North,   Shetland.      See  Fetlar   and 

North  Yell. 
Yeskenaby,  township,  Sandwick,  ii.  452. 
Yesker,  isle,  Kilmuir,  ii.  53. 
Yester,  parish,  Haddington,  ii.  620— i.  471. 
Yetbyre,  farm,  Eskdalemuir,  i.  407. 
Yetholm,  parish,  Roxburgh,  ii.  621. 
Yieldshields,  hamlet,  Carluke,  Lanark,  ii. 

622. 
Yonbell,  hill,  Sandwick,  ii.  451. 
Yoolfield,  mill,  Kemback,  ii.  10. 
York,  New,  village,  in  Strontian,  ii.  520. 
Ystrad  Cluyd,  Lanarkshire,  ii.  144. 
Ythan,  river,  Ellon,  i.  401  ;  Logie-Buchan, 

ii.  206  ;  Slains  and  Forvie,  468,  469. 


Zetland,  Isles  of.     See  Shetland. 


I 


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